Skip to main content

Full text of "A Handbook for travellers in India, Burma, and Ceylon : including the provinces of Bengal, Bombay, and Madras ; the Punjab, North-West provinces, Rajputana, Central Provinces, Mysore, etc. ; the native states, Assam and Cashmere"

See other formats 


This  is  a  digital  copy  of  a  book  that  was  preserved  for  generations  on  library  shelves  before  it  was  carefully  scanned  by  Google  as  part  of  a  project 
to  make  the  world's  books  discoverable  online. 

It  has  survived  long  enough  for  the  copyright  to  expire  and  the  book  to  enter  the  public  domain.  A  public  domain  book  is  one  that  was  never  subject 
to  copyright  or  whose  legal  copyright  term  has  expired.  Whether  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  may  vary  country  to  country.  Public  domain  books 
are  our  gateways  to  the  past,  representing  a  wealth  of  history,  culture  and  knowledge  that's  often  difficult  to  discover. 

Marks,  notations  and  other  marginalia  present  in  the  original  volume  will  appear  in  this  file  -  a  reminder  of  this  book's  long  journey  from  the 
publisher  to  a  library  and  finally  to  you. 

Usage  guidelines 

Google  is  proud  to  partner  with  libraries  to  digitize  public  domain  materials  and  make  them  widely  accessible.  Public  domain  books  belong  to  the 
public  and  we  are  merely  their  custodians.  Nevertheless,  this  work  is  expensive,  so  in  order  to  keep  providing  this  resource,  we  have  taken  steps  to 
prevent  abuse  by  commercial  parties,  including  placing  technical  restrictions  on  automated  querying. 

We  also  ask  that  you: 

+  Make  non-commercial  use  of  the  files  We  designed  Google  Book  Search  for  use  by  individuals,  and  we  request  that  you  use  these  files  for 
personal,  non-commercial  purposes. 

+  Refrain  from  automated  querying  Do  not  send  automated  queries  of  any  sort  to  Google's  system:  If  you  are  conducting  research  on  machine 
translation,  optical  character  recognition  or  other  areas  where  access  to  a  large  amount  of  text  is  helpful,  please  contact  us.  We  encourage  the 
use  of  public  domain  materials  for  these  purposes  and  may  be  able  to  help. 

+  Maintain  attribution  The  Google  "watermark"  you  see  on  each  file  is  essential  for  informing  people  about  this  project  and  helping  them  find 
additional  materials  through  Google  Book  Search.  Please  do  not  remove  it. 

+  Keep  it  legal  Whatever  your  use,  remember  that  you  are  responsible  for  ensuring  that  what  you  are  doing  is  legal.  Do  not  assume  that  just 
because  we  believe  a  book  is  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  the  United  States,  that  the  work  is  also  in  the  public  domain  for  users  in  other 
countries.  Whether  a  book  is  still  in  copyright  varies  from  country  to  country,  and  we  can't  offer  guidance  on  whether  any  specific  use  of 
any  specific  book  is  allowed.  Please  do  not  assume  that  a  book's  appearance  in  Google  Book  Search  means  it  can  be  used  in  any  manner 
anywhere  in  the  world.  Copyright  infringement  liability  can  be  quite  severe. 

About  Google  Book  Search 

Google's  mission  is  to  organize  the  world's  information  and  to  make  it  universally  accessible  and  useful.  Google  Book  Search  helps  readers 
discover  the  world's  books  while  helping  authors  and  publishers  reach  new  audiences.  You  can  search  through  the  full  text  of  this  book  on  the  web 


at|http  :  //books  .  google  .  com/ 


\i-M 


i 


» 


A  HANDBOOK 

TO 

INDIA 
BURMA  AND  CEYLON 


O.t). 


^  This  sign  in  the  text  a/ppended  to  a  name 
indicates  that  further  information  rekUing  to  the 
suhjtct  is  to  be  found  in  the  Index  and  Djreo- 
TORY  at  the  end  of  the  booh 


HANDBOOK  FOE  TEAVELLEBS  •^■" 

INDIA 

BURMA  AND  CEYLON 

INCLUDING  THE 

PROVINCES  OF  BENGAL,  BOMBAY,  AND  MADRAS 

THE  PUNJAB,  NORTH-WEST  PROVINCES,  RAJPUTANA, 
CENTRAL  PROVINCES,  MYSORE,  ETC. 

THE  NATIVE  STATES, 
ASSAM  AND  CASHMERE 


FOURTH  EDITION 

SBCOND  IMPRBSSION 

WITH      SEVENTY-FOUR      MAPS      AND      PLANS 


LONDON?    • 
JOHN  MURRAY,  ALBEMARLE  STREET 
CALCUTTA:   THACKER,  SPINK,  *  CO. 
1903 

0>J' 


THE  NEW  YORK 
PTJBUC  UBRA?Y 

TlUOfiN  FOUNDATIONS 


EXTEACT  FROM  THE 

PfiEFACE  TO  THE  FIRST  EDITION 

'^SiNCB  the  publication  of  the  Eandbock  to  IfMa^  in  four  volamefi, 
time  and  events  have  effected  great  changes,  not  only  in  the 
ooontry  itself  but  also  in  the  facilities  for  reaching  it  from  all  parts 
of  the  world,  and  for  travelling  throughout  the  peninsula.  The 
pnblic,  moreover,  are  yearly  becoming  better  aware  of  the  glorious 
field  which  in  India  is  opened  up  for  the  enjoyment  of  travel  and 
jsport,  and  of  the  inexhaustible  opportunities  afforded  them  for  Hie 
study  of  an  engrossing  history,  an  interesting  nationality,  and  an  un- 
rivalled art,  as  displayed  not  only  in  architectural  monuments^  but 
alflo  in  native  industries  and  handicrafts.  On  this  account,  and  in 
consequence  of  the  yearly  increasing  tide  of  travellers  setting  towards 
India,  the  publisher  has  found  it  necessary  to  arrange  his  guide  in  an 
entirely  new  form.  It  has  been  to  a  great  extent  rewritten,  thoroughly 
revised,  and  condensed  into  one  handy  volume.  .  .  . 

^  The  accounts  of  most  places  described  in  this  book  have  been  revise 
on  the  spot,  and  in  this  revision  the  publisher  has  received  much  Idnd 
assistance  from  civil  servants  and  others  resident  in  different  parts  of 
India.  He  takes  this  opportunity  of  tendering  to  them  his  grateful 
thanks,  as  also  to  the  following  persons  who  have  assisted  him  in 
various  parts  of  the  book  :  Dr.  Burgess,  Dr.  Bradshaw,  LL.D.,  Mr.  H. 
Beauehamp,  Major  F.  Spratt,  RJE.,  Mr.  R  Clarke,  B.C.S.,  Mr.  J. 
Westlake,  Mr.  G.  Marsden,  Mr.  E.  A.  Smith,  Mr.  Ottewill ;  particularly 
to  the  Hon.  Sir  Arthur  Gordon,  G.C.M.G.,  who,  with  exception  of  the 
description  of  Colombo  and  the  first  route,  has  written  the  whole 
of  the  account  of  Ceylon  from  his  own  personal  knowledge  and  wide 
experience  of  that  country ;  and  finally  to  Professor  Forrest,  Keeper 
of  the  Records  in  Calcutta,  through  whose  hands  the  whole  of  the 
proo&  of  '  India '  have  passed." 

Nwmber  1802. 


LIST  OF  ROUTES 


[The  names  of  places  are  printed  in  black  only  in  those  Routes  where  tha 
plcuxa  themselyes  are  desoribecU    When  not  otherwise  stated,  the  routes  are  all ; 
by  raiL] 


KOUTBOr 
CAPITAL  PAOS 

Bonbay  and  Environi,  indnding 
the  Cayes  of  Elephanta, 
Montpesir,  and  Kanhari  1 

1  Bombay  to  Calcutta  by  Kalyan, 

NasilE,  Bhusawal,  Ehand- 
wa,  Jubbnlpore,  Allahabad, 
Mognl  Sarai,  and  Patna, 
with  expeditions  by  road  to 
the  caves  of  Ajanta,  the 
hiU-statiohofPachmari,  the 
Karble  Bocks  at  Jubbulpore, 
and  to  Parasnath,  and  visits 
by    rail    to    Benares    and 

Oaya 26 

Calcutta  and  Environs,  includ- 
ing the  approach  from  the 
sea,  Chinsurah,  Hooghly, 
Serampore,  and  Chander- 
nagore  .        .      52 

2  Nandgaon    to    Aurangabad, 

the  Caves,  Boza  or  Ehul- 
dabad,  and  the  Caves  of 
Ellora         .  .65 

8  Bhusawal  to  Akola  (with  ex- 
pedition to  Warora  and 
Chanda),  Nagpnr,  Kamptee, 
Baipur,  Bilaspur,  Purulia, 
and  Asensol         ...       78 

4  Khandwa  to  Ajmere  through 

nhow,  ludoire,  Neemuch, 
Chitor,and  Nusseerabad,  with 
expeditions  by  road  to  Un- 
kaiji  and  Handu,  and  by 
rail  to  Ujjain  and  Debari 
for  Oodeypore    .        .        .78 

5  Itarsi  Junction   to  Cawnpore 

through  Bhopal,  Bhilsa, 
Sanchi,  Jhansi,  and  Kalpi. 
with  expedition  by  rail  to 
Saugor  ....  86 
5a  Agra  to  Manikpur  Junction 
^%rough  Dholpur,  Owalior, 


92 


BOUTS  or 

CAPITAL 

Datia,  Jhansi,  Barwa-San- 
gar,  Mahoba,  and  Banda, 

with  expedition  by  road  to 
Khajurahu 

6  Bombay    to    Delhi    through 

Bassein,  Surat,  Broadi, 
Baroda^Ahmedabad,  Msh- 
saaa,  Mount  Abu,  AJmere, 
Jeypore,  Baadikui  Junc- 
tion, Alwar,  Bewazi,  and 
Delhi,  with  excursions  \^ 
rail  to  Dabhoi  and  Jod&* 
pur  .        .  .       .     104 

7  Ahmedabad    to    Viramgim, 

Kharaghoda,  Wadhvan, 
Bhaunagar,  Juna^adh, 
Gimar,  Sonmath,  Pofban-  ^  ' 
dar,  Baikot,  and  bibk  to 
Ahmedabad,  with  «xpedi* 
tion  by  road  to  Paltona   .     152 

8  Bewari  to  Ferozepur  And  La- 

hore, through  HanB,Hl8sar, 
and  Bhatinda   .       .        .165 

9  Jeypore    to    Agra   through 

Bandikni  Junction,  Bhurt- 
pur,  and  Achnezt  Junction, 
with  expeditio;  by  road 
to  Fatehpur  SiOri     .        .     167 

10  Muttra  to  MahaKn,  Bindra- 

ban,  and  Dig  fpm  Achnera 
Junction  for  titvellers  from 
the  W.,  and  fom  Hathras 
Junction  for  those  from 
Delhi  or  the^^.         .        .     182 

11  Delhi  to  Siml^  via  Paniput. 

Kumal,  Tb^esar,  Umbal- 
la,  Ealka,i>ndKa8auli     .     187 
11 A  Delhi  to  Un^lla  via  Ohaiia- 
ba4  Junct>n,  Heerut.  Bar- 
dbana,  a4  Saharanpore  .     193 

12  Umballa  t/ Lahore  through 

Sirhindi^adhiana,  Amrit- 


UST  OB*  ROtTTJCS 


soutBor 

CJinTAL  PAGX 

ear,  Heean  Heer  and  La- 
hore ....    195 

13  Lahore  to  Peshawar  through 

Oujranwala,  Wasirabad 
Jtmction,  Gujrat,  Sotaa, 
Manikjrala  Tope,  Bawal 
Fiadi,  and  Attock,  with 
expedition  by  rail  from 
Wasirabad  to  Sialkot  and 
Jummoo  ....  207 
13a  Cashmere  and  some  of  the 

routes  into  that  country    ,     216 

14  Lahore      to     Karachi     by 

rail  through  Montgom- 
ery, Mooltan,  Bahawalpur, 
Bohri,  the  Indus  Bridge, 
Sukkur,  Buk  Junction, 
Larkana,  Sehwan,  Eotri, 
Hyderabad  on  the  Indus, 
and  Jungshahi,  from 
whence  an  expedition  by 
roadtoTatta    .        .        .221 

15  Ruk   Junction   to   Ghaman, 

on  the  frontier,  through 
Shikarpur,  Jacobabad,  Sibi 
Junction,  and  Hamai,  re- 
turning by  Quetta  and  the 
BolanPass  .234 

16  Saharanpore   by    the    Oudh 

and  Rohilcund  Railway  to 
Mogul  Sarai,  visiting  on  the 
way  Moradabad,  Bareilly, 
Lucknow,  and  Benares  237 

16a  Bareilly  Junction  to  Naini 
Tal,  Almorah,  and  Bani- 
khet  ....     258 

17  Lhaksar  Junction  to  Hard- 

war,  Dehra  Dun,  and  the 
lull-stations  of  Mussoorie, 
Landour,  and  Chakrata    ,    254 

18  Delhi  to  Allahabad  by  Ghaz- 

iabad,  Aligarh,  Hathras 
Junction,  Tundla  Junction, 
Etawah,  and  Cawnpore    .     257 

19  Calcutta  by  the  East  Indian 

Railway  Loop  Line  to 
Luckeeserai,  visiting  Azim- 
gaaj,  Murshedabad,  Ber- 
hampnr,  Easim  Bazar, 
Plassey,  Bajmahal,  Mal- 
dah,  Qaur,  and  Pandnah .    264 

20  From   Calcutta   by   Eastern 

Beng{d  Railway  to  Daijeel- 
ing,  visiting  Damookdea, 


OAPITAL 

the  Ganges  crossing,  SilU- 
gnri,  and  Kurseong  . 

20a  Calcutta  to  Dibm^h  by 
Bungpore,  Dhubri,  Qau- 
hati,  and  ShiUong    . 

20b  Calcutta  to  Dacca  and  the 
Sylhet  Valley  by  Ooalnndo, 
Narainganj,  and  Cherra- 
Pnnji,  and  by  Goalundo  to 
Chittegong  by  Chandpnr 
and  Laksam  Jnnctioii 

21  Calcutta   to   Diamond   Har- 

bour, False  Point  Harbour, 
Pun,  the  Black  Pagoda, 
Bhuvaneshwar,  the  Caves 
of  Udayagiri  and  Khanda- 
giri,  Cuttack,  Jajpur,  and 
Balasore 

22  Poona  to  Goa  through  Wa- 

thar,  Satara,  Miraj,  Bel- 
gaum,  and  Harmagoa 
Harbour,  with  expeditions 
by  road  to  Hahabalesh- 
war  ani  the  temples  near 
Belgaum,  and  by  rail  to 
Eolhapur  .... 

23  Hotgi  Junction  to  Bijapur, 

Badami,  and  Dharwar,  with 
excursions  by  road  to 
temples  in  the  vicinity  of 
Badami     .... 

24  Bombay  to  Madras  by  Kalyan 

Junction,  the  Bor  Ghat, 
Kirkee,  and  Podna,  Shola- 
pur,  Eulbarga,  Wadi  Junc- 
tion, Baichur,  Gnntakal 
Junction,  Benigunta  Junc- 
tion, and  Arkonam  Junction, 
with  excursions  by  road  to 
HatheranHill,  the  Caves  of 
Earli  and  Bhaja,  and  to 
Pandharpur,  and  by  rail  to 
Ahmednagar  and  Tirupati 
Madras  City  and  Environs 

25  Wadi  Junction  to  Hyderabad, 

Secunderabad,  Warangal, 
Bezwada,  Bajahmundry, 
Vizagapatam,  Viziana- 
gram,  Ganjam,  and  Chilka 
Lake,  with  expedition  by 
road  to  Bidar    . 

26  Gadag  Junction  to  Hospet, 

Vijayanagar  (B-yanagar), ' 
Bellary,    Gnntakal    Juno- 


270 


278 


275 


277 


292 


304 


318 
336 


345 


List  OfP  ROUtKB 


RODTBOr 
CAPITAL  PAQK 

tioD,  Nandyal,  and  Bex* 
wadia,  with  expeditions  by 
road  to  Enmool  and  Ama- 
ravati  .353 

27  Hubli  Junction  to  Harihar, 

Banawar,  Arsikere,  Tnm- 
knr,  and  Bangalore,  with 
expeditions  by  road  to  the 
temples  at  Hollabid,  Belnr, 
and  Jamgal,  also  to  the 
hills  of  Indra-betta  and 
Chandragiri,  near  Shra- 
vana  Belagola  360 

28  By    coasting -steamer    from 

Bombay  to  Batnagiri,  Mar- 
magoa  Harbour,  Karwar, 
Honawar,  Mangalore,  Can- 
nannore,  Telllcherry,Hah^, 
Calicut,  Beypur,  Narakal, 
Cochixi,  and  Tuticorin,  with 
an  expedition  inland  from 
Honawar  to  the  FaUs  of  Qer- 
Boppa        ....     363 

29  Madras  through  Arcot,  Vel- 

lore,  Jalarpet  Junction  to 
Bangalore,  and  by  Maddur 
to  Seri2igapatam  and  My- 
sore, with  expedition  by 
road  to  the  Falls  of  the 
Cauvery    .  .371 

30  Jalarpet  Junction  to  Salem, 

the  Shevaroy  Hills,  Erode 
Junction  for  Trichinopoly, 
Ck>imbatore,  and  the  NilgM 
HillB  ....     387 

31  Madras  by  the  South  Indian 

Railway  to  Chingleput 
Junction,  Conjeveram,  Por- 
to Novo,  Chidambaram, 
Kumbhakonam,  Tanjore, 
Trichinopoly,  Dindigal, 
Madura,  and  Tinnevelly, 
with  excursions  by  road  to 
Gingi,  Kodaikanal,  and 
Eutallam,  and  by  rail  to 
Pondicherry  392 

32  Madras  to  Mahabalipur  and 


BouTJcor 

CAPITAL 


the    Seven    Pagodas    by 

Canal         ....    408 


BURMA 

Introductory  remarks.  Gene- 
ral description,  History, 
Climate,  etc.     .        .       413-420 


Rangoon 


420 


1  Rangoon  to  Kandalay,  Bha- 

mo,  and  the  First  Defile, 
returning  via  Prome .        .    425 

2  Rangoon  to  Moulmein,  with 

possible  extension  to  Tavoy 
andMergoi  .435 

3  Rangoon  to  Kywakpjn  and 

Akyab      ....    437 

4  From    Rangoon    to   Bassein 

and  back  .  .         .438 

5  Up  the  Chindwin  to  Kindat     439 

CEYLON 

1 

Introductory    remarks,    His- 
tory, Colombo  .  440,  441 

1  Colombo  to  Eandy  443 

2  Colombo  to  Nuwara  Eliya, 

Badulla,  and  Batticaloa  .    445 

3  Colombo  to  Batnapura  and 

Badulla     ....     448 

4  Colombo   to   Ratnapura   via 

Panadura  and  Nambapane    451 

5  Colombo  to  Galle,   Hatara, 

Hambantotta,     and    Tis- 
samaharama    .  .451 

6  Colombo  to  Trincomalee  by 

Negombo,   Puttalam,  and 
Anuradhapura  .        .        .454 

7  Kandy  to  Jaffna  by  Anurad- 

hapura    .        .        .        .455 

8  Kandy  to  Trincomalee  (with 

excursion  to  Pollonama)  .     459 

9  (Sporting  Tour)   Badulla  to 

Nilgala  by  Bnttale,  Kat- 
eragam,  and  Okanda        ,     461 


LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  PLANS 

PAQB 

Agra,  and  Environs To  face  168 

„     the  Fort ,,171 

„     Moti  Musjid 172 

„     Tjy  Mahal To /ace  170 

„     Fatehpur  Sikri 178 

Ahmedabad .         .  To  face  112 

ijmere,  the  Arhai-din-ka-jhompra  Mosque 125 

Allahabad To  face    87 

Attock ,,212 

Badami,  the  Cave 314 

Bangalore .376 

Bijapur *       .*       .To /ace  304 

„      Gol  Gumbaz 305 

„       Section  of  Domes,  Jumma  Musjid  .  .       306 

Bombay To  face      1 

„        showing  Malabar  Hill  ........  6 

,,        and  Environs ,,         18 

Buddha,  Figures  of.     Plate  2      .         .         .         .    To  follow  Plate  1,  afUr  Hi. 

Burma  (South) To  face  HZ 

Calcutta .         .       „         52 

Cashmere ,,216 

Caste  Marks.     Plate  2 To  follow  FlaU  1,  after  lii. 

Cawnpore To /ace  260 

Ceylon ,,440 

Daijeeling ,,271 

Delhi ,,132 

„     Palace  in  Fort 138 

„     the  Environs To  face  148 

„     Humayun's  Tomb 146 

„    Mosque  of  Eutbl  Islam  and  the  Kutb  Minar     ....       148 

EUora,  the  Dherwara  Cave 72 

„      theKailas 72 

Giniar  Mountain         .        .       ' To  face  157 


XU  LIST  OF  MAPS  AND  l^LAKS 

Girnar,  Temple  of  Nimnath 158 

,f      Temple  of  Tejpala  and  Yastupala 160 

Gods,  Hindu,  some  common  forms  ot    Plates  1  and  2        .        .  To/aee  lii 

Gwalior,  the  Fort ,  98 

India,  Average  Rainfall ;  (2)  during  the  wet  and  dry  seasons  .  ,,  xviii. 
,,  Average  Temperature ;  (2)  during  the  hot  and  cold  seasons  ,,  xvi. 
„      General  Map  o^  showing  the  Railway  System  •        .     In  Pocket 

,,      Geological  Features  of To  face  toy, 

,,      Vegetable  Products ,,      xxiL 

Jagannath,  the  Temple 279 

Jaunpur,  West  half  of  Jumma  Mu£;jid 251 

Karachi To/ace  2Z2 

Karli,  the  Cave 321 

Lahore To  face  200 

Lucknow ,,       239 

„       the  Residency ,       240 

Madras 336 

Madura,  Tirumala's  Choultrie 407 

Matheran To  face  319 

Murree „       211 

Mussoorie ,,       25$ 

Mutiny,  showing  distribution  of  troops  on  May  1,  1857  „  Izxiv. 

NainiTal ,,253 

North- West  Frontier ,,214 

Ootacamund „       389 

Pagan,  the  Ananda  Temple 432 

„      the  Thapinyu  Temple 43^ 

Pattadakal,  the  Temple 311 

Poona  and  Kirkee To  face  S2i 

Quetta  Railways 23( 

Railways,  General,  see  India. 

Rangoon To  face  42 

Sanchi,  Plan  of  Great  Tope 8 

„       Section  of  Great  Tope 8 

Simla To  face  18 

Somnath,  the  Temple j 1^ 

„        Verawal  and  Patan 1< 

Srinagar To  face,  21 

Trivalur,  Bird's-eye  View  of  Temple 3^ 

„       Plan  of  Inner  Temple 3j 

Vyayanagar '       n 


t  Oalcoita, 

Delei,  Kabaohi,  and  back. 

BoBlMjr      At  the  bcgiimiiig. 

JoMmlpon  (Marble   Bocka, 

ilkhabad     .  .  »    1* 

GUoitte,  0&d  of  Bte.  1  ^- 

eonioii  to  DarJeeUng,  Eta. 

Boazaa  Bte.  1. 

Loeknoir    .  „    U. 

(kvnpoie  »    18* 

iga,  Bte.  9  (Owalior  Bte., 

5a;  Fatdtpur  Sikri,  Bte.  9). 
Mhi,   Bte.   6;   Kutb,  etc., 

Bte.0. 
Amxitaar   (Oolden    Temple^ 

Bte.  IS. 
Ukan,  Bte.  18  (Shah  Deza, 

Bte.  IS) 
Xoottan  Bte.  14. 

Mknr  »    U. 

laaehi  «.    li. 

Bombay. 

Mdaya.' 

Itar  B— BoMBAT,  Ahmkda- 

IAD,  BSLHI,  LaHOBX,  KaB- 

ACD,  and  back. 
Bonbay.      At  the  baginning. 
Buoda  .        .  Rte.  e. 

flnmt     ...  M    0- 

Alunedabad  •       .  „    0. 

ibaBoad(HoimtAba)  „  6. 
Ibnrar,  for  Jodbpar  „  0. 
UD«e     .        .  ,6. 

iifpore  .       .       „    6. 

ApK  Bte.  9  (OwaUor.  Bte.  6a  ; 

fktcOiparSikri,  Bte.9)L 
ftattanation  of  Bonte  aa  in 

'srdaya.! 

O — Bomb  it,    Dmun, 

UUB»     Oaixjdtta,    Ma- 

IKAS,  PoooiA,  and  Bombay. 

Imbay  to  Agra,  aa  in  Tour  B. 
kvnpore     .  Bte.  18. 


CIRCULAK  TOURS » 

BBOOMMENDBD   BT   MB88B8.   T.  OOOK  &  BON. 


Bte.  10. 

"     }' 

Fatna  ...         »     !• 
Oalcatta,  end  of  Bte.  1  (Bar- 
Jeeling,  Bte.  20). 
[JSar      .       .        Bte.i2. 
Fdona  ...  »*   8S. 

Bombay. 

46dayi.* 

Tour  D— Bombay,  Jubbui<- 
POBB,  DBun,  Bbbabm, 
Calcotta,  Cktuxk,  Gau- 
OUT,  Ma]»a8,  etc 

Bombay  to  Jubbulpoie  and 
Allahabad,  aa  in  Bte.  1. 

Gawnpore    .  Bte.  18. 

A|m,  Bte.  9^waUor,  Bte.  6a.  ; 
IJ^tehpnr  SfkrI,  Rte.  »). 

Jeypore  Bte.  6. 

aAIZ   ...        ..6. 

Delhi     ...  M    8. 

Locknow  ,,16. 

Benarea.  „    1. 

QOeattomudMUBg  Rte.  20), 
end  of  Bte.  1. 

Tntioorin     .  Rte.  28. 

Madnxa  „    81. 

Tai^ore  .  „    81. 

Calient        .       .  .,28. 

Madraa        .   End  of  Rte.  22. 

Poona  ...  .,    88* 

Bombay. 

OldaykS 

Tour  B—BoMBAY,  Madras, 

Galcdtta,  BnrABBS,  Dblhx, 

Baboda. 

Bombay.     At  the  beainning. 

Hedraa        .       .       Bte.  2S. 

Oalcatta  ODaijeeling,  Bte.  20), 

end  of  Rte.  1. 

Bte.  1. 
„  16. 
„  18. 
>.  9- 
»  8. 
..      6. 


Alwar    .       . 

Bte.  6. 

ACTBkwd     '. 

:;£ 

Ahmadabad  .        . 

,    0. 

Baroda  . 

..  «. 

Snrat     . 

«. 

Bombay. 

88  days.* 

Tow  F— Bombay  (StaanierX 
TxTTiooBiv,  Madura,  Tab- 
JOBB,  Madbas,  Poova,  and 


Bombay  End  of  Bte.  1. 

Steamer  thence  to 
Ooa  (Steamer)     Btea.  88,  88. 
Galiont  (Steamer)       Rte.  28. 
Tntioorin  „    tL 

Ban  to 
Madnia  .       .       .       „    81. 
Tai^ore   and    Trichinopoly, 

Bte.  81. 
Jalaipet  (Bangalore)  Bte.  28. 
Madraa  %d  of  Bte.  22 

Poona  ...  „    88 

Bombay 

16day8.3 

ToiirO^BoMBAYandback,v(a 
Karachi,  Lahobb,  Dblhi, 
BbhIbbs,  Jubbulpobx. 


Karachi       .       . 

Rte.  14. 

Mooltan 

„    14. 

Lahore.       . 

„   18. 

Amrttnr      . 

18. 

Umballa 

„   11. 

Meemt 

»11A. 

Delhi    .       . 

r          ..     «. 

Lncknow 
Gawnpore 
Agra    . 
Delhi   . 
Jeypore 


Ana,  Bte.  9  (G^nOior,  Bte.  6a  ; 

Fkitehpor  Slkri,  Bte.  OX 
Mnttaa  .       .       .       Bte.  0 


Gawnpore 
Lveknow 


Allahabad 

Jnbbnlpore 

Bombay. 

88day8.a 


18. 
18 

1 

1. 

1. 


1  Messrs.    T.  Gook  ft  Son  Isane  tickete  for  these  tours  andm  expUnatory  pamphlet, 
b  fiieir  addresaea  In  Bombay  and  Galcutta,  tee  Index  and  Directory.      „  ^    ^  ^  „ 
*  mSe  flSSSTrepr^   tie  shorteat  limit  of  days  given  by  Messrs.  T.  Cook  &8on,  for 
Irfonnliig  wke  jottrney. 


XIV 


OIBOULAR  TOURS 


India 


Tour  H— Bombay  and  tack, 
via  Calicut,  Maduba, 
Madbas,  etc. 

Bombay  jSad  of  Bte.  1. 

Steamfirto 

OalicntCBaU)  Rte.  28. 

Erode  ...  „    80. 

Madnn  „    81. 

Trichinopoly       .  .,81. 

TaAjole  „    81. 

Ohinglepat  .       .  „    81. 

Kadiaa  >,    22. 

Poona  ...  „    22. 

Ealyan        .       .  ,,82. 
Bombay 

14  days.i 

Tour  I— Bombay  and  back, 
via  JuBBOLPOBx,  Galodtta, 
BsNABxs,  Delhi,  Baboba, 
etc 

Bombay  to  Delhi,  as  in  Tour  A. 
Delhi  to  Bombay,    „      „    E. 

29  days.! 

Tour  K— Colombo  to  Bombay. 

Colombo  Bte.  88. 

Steamer  to 
Tuticorin  (Bail)  „    28. 

Madura  (Bte.  31)  to  Bombay, 

as  in  Tour  H. 
Bombay  to  Calcutta  and  Delhi, 

as  in  Tour  A. 
Delhi  to  Bombay,  as  in  Tour  E. 

45dayB.i 


Tour  L— Colombo  to  Bombay, 
via  CAI.IOOT,  llAnBAB,  Cal- 
cutta, Dblhx,  Jubbulpobx. 

Colombo  to   Madura,  as  in 

TourK. 
Madura  to  Madnw,  as  in  Tour 

H. 
Madras  to  Calcutta  (Daijeel- 

ing,  Bte.  20X  as  in  Tour  B. 
Calcutta  to  Delhi,as  in  Tour  B. 
Alwar  ...  Rte.  e. 
A^  to  Bombay  (reTened),  as 

in  Tour  A. 

49days.i 

Tour  M— Colombo  to  Bom- 
bay, via  Calicut,  Madbas, 
Bombay,  Allahabad,  Bkn- 

ABKS,  DbLHI,  BaBODA. 

Colombo  to  Calicut,  as  in  Tour 

Calicut  to  Bombay,  as  in  Tour 

H. 
Bombay  to  Delhi,  as  in  Tour 

Delhi  to  Bombay  as  in  Tour 
B. 

48  days.! 

Tour  N— Colombo  to  Bombay, 
via  Calicut,  Madbas,  Bom- 
bay, Kabachi,  Lahobe, 
Calcutta,  Allahabad,  and 
Bombay. 

Colombo  ik>  Bombay,  as  in 
ToorH. 


Bombay  to   Karachi,   as  in 

Tour  G. 
Karachi  to  Calctttta(reTer8ed),  . 

as  in  Tour  A. 
Calcutta  to  Bombay,  as  in 

Tour  A. 

58  days. 

Detour  to  Hydsrabad  (Deo- 

canXRte.  25.ean  be  Joined  U 

Tours  C.D.B.F.H.K.M.N. 
Detour   to  Bangalore    and  - 

M^iore,   Bte.   29,  can  be 

Joined  to  TOnn  aD.B.F.H. ; 

K.L.M.N. 
Detour  to  the  KUgizlg,  Rte. 

80,  can  be  Joined  to  Tours 

D.E.H.K.L.M.N. 
Detour  to  LallOKB,  Bte.  12, 

can    be  Joined    to    Tonn 

aD.B.I.K.L.M. 
Detour  to  Qnetta  (for  Kan* 

dahar),  Rte.  15,can  be  Joined 

to  Tours  A. B.G.N. 
Detour  to  Pealiawar,   Rte. 

18,  can  be  joined  to  Tours 

A.B.G.N. 
Detour  to  Qaya,  Rte.  1,  can 

be  Joined  to  Tours  A.C.D. 

E.I.K.L.M. 
Detour  to  (Iwallor,  Rte.  5a 

can  be  joined  to  Tours  A.B 

C.D.E.G.I.K.1/.M.N. 
Detour  to  B^apur,  Rte.  24, 

can  be  Joined  to  Tours  B.D. 

E.F.H.K.L.M.N. 
Detour  to  ABsam  and  Bra- 

mabputra  Rirer,  Btes.  20a 

and  20b. 


*  These  figures  represent  the  shortest  Itaift  of  days  giren  hy  Messrs.  T.  Cook  &  Son  for 
performing  the  Journey  »««  tw 


INTEODUCTOKY    INFORMATION 


Enqlish  Lanquaqk 

A.  TBiF  to  India  is  no  longer  a  formidable  journey  or  one  that 
requires  very  special  preparation.  English  is  spoken  in  all  the  hotels 
(but  not  in  the  dak  bungalows) ;  and  European  shops  have  good 
articles  for  all  ordinary  requirements,  with   attendants  who  speak 

TJIAYELLING   SBRYANTS 

A  good  travelling  servant,  a  native  who  can  speak  English,  is  indis- 
pensable, but  should  on  no  account  be  engaged  without  a  good  personal 
character  or  the  recommendation  of  a  trustworthy  agent  Such  a 
servant  is  necessary  not  only  to  wait  on  his  master  at  hotels,  dak 
bungalows,  and  even  in  private  houses,  where  without  him  he  would 
be  but  poorly  served ;  but  in  a  hundred  different  ways  when  travelling 
l^nil  or  otherwise,  and  as  an  interpreter  and  go-between  when  dealing 
with  natives.  Having  ascertained  beforehand  from  his  agent  the  fair 
wages  which  his  servant  ought  to  be  x>aid,  the  master  shoidd  take  care 
to  come  to  some  definite  arrangement  with  him  before  engaging  him. 
It  is  advisable  to  have  an  agreement  in  writing.  If  the  servant 
proves  satisfactory,  it  is  the  custom  to  make  him  a  small  present  before 
parting  with  him.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  a  lady's  ayah.  Madras 
ayahs  though  expensive  are  considered  the  best  If  the  traveller  has 
friends  ^  up  country,"  it  is  well  to  write  beforehand  and  ask  them  to 
engage  a  servant  for  him,  and  to  send  him  to  meet  his  master  at  the 
port  of  arrival.  "  Up-country  "  servants  are  often  cheaper  and  more 
idiable  than  those  to  be  met  with  on  the  coast 

Bailwayb  • 

In  Bombay,  the  Ifidian  A.B.O.  Gmde  and  the  hidicm  Baihoay 
^twvdlen^  Ouide^  and  in  Calcutta,  Newman's  Inddan  Bradshaw,  give 
i&aps,  the  railway  routes  for  all  India,  and  steamer  routes.  For  rail- 
way purposes  the  hours  are  counted  up  to  24,  as  in  Italy  *  thus  20.18 


xvi  RAILWAT8 — SEASON  India 

is  8.12  P.M.,  and  so  on.     Bailway  time  throughout  India  is  Madras 
time.     The  difference  is  as  follows : — 

Karachi  time  is  52  min.  behind  railway  time. 

Mooltan      ,,      36 

Lahore        ,.23  ,,  ,. 

Delhi  „      13 

Agra  ,.      10 

AUahahad  »,        7  min.  before  railway  time. 

Calcutta      ,,33  ,,  „ 

Chittagong,,      46  „  „ 

At  most  of  the  larger  towns  there  are  several  stations.     The  traveller 
should  not,  as  a  rule,  book  for  the  "citj,"  but  the  '' cantonment  ** 
station.     Before  booking  he  should  note  what  station  is  mentioned  in 
the  Handbook,     The  Railway  Companies  in  India  do  much  for  the 
comfort  of  travellers.     Every  1st  and  2nd  class  compartment  is  pro-  : 
vided  with  a  lavatory,  and  the  seats,  which  are  unusually  deep,  are  so  i 
arranged  as  to  form  couches  at  night,  but  are  not  furnished  with 
bedding    or    pillows.      There   are   refreshment    rooms    at   frequent 
intervals,  and  some  of  them  are  very  well  managed  and  supplied; 
but  when  travellers   intend    to   make   use   of  them   for   dinner   or 
otherwise  they  should  signify  their   intention   to  the  guard  of   the 
train  beforehand  and   he  will   telegraph  (free   of  chaise)   to  have 
everything    in   readiness   at    the   station    indicated   on   the    arrival  ^ 
of  the  train.     The  Station-masters  are  particularly  civil  and  obliging,  | 
and,  as  a  rule,   are  most  useful  to  travellers  in  providing  ponies,  [ 
conveyances,  or  accommodation  at  out-of-the-way  stations  if  notice  | 
is  given  them  beforehand;  they  will  also. receive  letters  addressed: 
to   their    care, — this   is    often   a   convenience    to   travellers.      One  ' 
drawback    to  travelling   in   India   is   that   baggage    is   occasionally 
transhipped  from  one  train  to  another — e^g.  at  a  junction  or  from  an 
express  to  a  slow  train — ^in  which  case  a  traveller  may  arrive  at  his 
destination  and  find  that  his  luggage  will  not  reach  him  for  some 
hours.     Every  inquiry,  therefore,  should  be  made  beforehand  as  tc 
the  stations  where   luggage   is   likely  to   be   transhipped,  and   the 
traveller  should  make  a  point  of  ascertaining  that  it  is  deposited  in 
the  same  train  with  him.      At  every  station  carriages  of  some  sort 
await  the  arrival  of  the  trains. 

Season  fob  Visit  to  India 

The  season  for  a  pleasant  visit  to  the  plains  of  India  lies  between 
15th  November  and  10th  March,  but  in  the  Punjab  these  dates  may 
be  slightly  extended  ;  then,  however,  the  heat  will  be  found  trying 
at  the  ports  of  arrival  and  departure,  October  and  April  are  as  trying 
months  as  any  in  the  year,  much  more  so  than  July,  August,  and 
^ibntember,  when  rain  cools  the  atmosphere. 


s^^ 


■S'      ■  ,"  3        t^-3?  ^fX,   J-i         ■^, "--7 •■-■•-- .  .=     .T/'tj.-X 


Inirod,  expenses — olothikg  xvii 

ilXPENfeES 

Owing  to  the  depreciation  of  the  rupee,  the  traveller  whose  financed 
are  upon  a  gold  hasis  will  find  India  a  cheap  country.  The  hotels 
charge  5  to  7  rupees  a  day  for  board  and  lodging.  As  walking  in 
the  heat  of  the  day  is  better  avoided,  even  in  the  cold  weather, 
carriages  have  to  be  used  in  order  to  visit  the  various  objects  of 
interest  The  charge  for  a  day  varies  from  5  to  10  rupees  according 
to  the  locality,  and  the  number  of  horses  required.  In  a  hotel  a 
small  gratuity  may  be  given  to  the  water-carrier  ("  bhisti ").  Quests 
at  private  houses  generally  fee  the  chief  attendants.  The  railway 
charges  are  moderate.  The  traveller  starting  on  a  journey  does  well  to 
proYide  himself  with  a  sufficiency  of  small  change. 

Clothing 

Not  very  long  ago  it  was  thought  essential  to  have  a  special  outfit 
prepared  for  a  journey  to  India.     This  is  scarcely  the  case  now. 

For  the  Voyage  a  few  warm  clothes  for  the  northern  part 
and  thin  ones  for  the  Red  Sea  and  Arabian  Sea  are  required.  As 
regards  the  lighter  clothes,  a  man  will  find  it  convenient  to  have  a 
very  thin  suit  of  cloth  or  grey  flannel  for  day,  and  a  thin  black  coat 
for  dinner.     It  is  not  necessary  to  dress  for  dinner  on  board  ship. 

A  lady  cannot  do  better  than  provide  herself  with  thin  skirts  of  , 
tussore-silk  or  some  such  material,  and  thin  flannel  or  silk  shirts. 
Shoes  with  india-rubber  soles  are  the  best  for  the  deck,  as  they  afford 
good  foothold  when  the  vessel  is  unsteady. 

On  Baggage-daySy  which  occur  once  a  week,  boxes  marked  wanted  on 
wpge  may  be  brought  up  from  the  hold,  and  suitable  clothes  taken 
out  or  stowed  away  according  to  the  temperature  and  weather. 

For  a  winter  tour  in  the  plains  of  India,  a  traveller  requires 
similar  clothing  to  that  which  he  would  wear  in  the  spring  or  autumn 
in  England,  but  in  addition  he  must  take  very  warm  winter  wraps. 
A  man  should  have  a  light  overcoat  in  which  he  can  ride,  and  a  warm 
long  ulster  for  night  travelling  or  in  the  early  morning.  A  lady,  be- 
sides a  jacket  and  shawl,  should  have  a  very  thin  dust-cloak,  and  a  loose 
V3rm  cloak  to  wear  in  a  long  drive  before  the  sun  rises,  or  to  sleep 
in  at  night  when  roughing  it.  Tourists  should  remember  that  the 
mning  dews  are  so  heavy  as  to  absolutely  wet  the  outer  garment,  the 
i^bts  and  mornings  are  quite  cold,  and  yet  the  middle  of  the  day  is 
•Iways  warm,  sometimes  very  hot,  so  that  the  secret  of  dressing  is  to 
%in  the  day  in  things  that  can.  be  thrown  off  ajs  the  heat  increases. 

In  Bombay  and  Calcutta,  and,  in  fsu^t,  all  along  the  coast  and 
ID  the  south  of  the  peninsula,  much  thinner  clothing  is  required. 
Cool  linen  suits  for  men,  and  very  thin  dresses  for  ladies,  also  Khakee 
i^  and  shooting-suits,  can  be  got  cheaper  and  better  in  India  than 
^  England,  and  a  native  tailor  will  make  a  very  satisfactory  suit 
[India]  b 


XViii  CliOTHING — BEDDING  =^^ 

from  an  English  pattern.     Linen  and  underclothing  for  a(    c  ^-i  ^' 
weeks  should  be  taken, — with  less  th^  traveller  on  arrivrdS 
inconvenienced,  or  even  detained  until  his  hoard -ship  *  i>5,  ^  ^ 
washed.     The  Indian  washermen,  though  not  as  bad  as  th /L^*''^: 
be,  destroy  things  rather  rapidly.     Winter  clothing  will  bi  ';:3k  ^^ 
if  it  is  intended  to  visit  the  hill -stations.      Flannel  ^f^^^^^ 
underclothing  and  sleeping  garments  and  a  flannel  *'  Kumi$3^  j 
(a  strip  of  flannel  3  yd&  long  and  1  ft  wide  worn  round  ^^ - 
to  be  worn  at  any  rate  at  night,  are  strongly  recommended. 

The  hospitality  of  India  involves  a  considerable  amount 
out^  and  therefore  a  lady,  unless  she  intends  to  eschew  sociel 
be  provided  with  several  evening  dresses.     Riding-breeches 
for  men,  and  riding-habits  for  ladies  should  not  be  forgotten. 

A  good  sun-hat  is  an  essential.     The  Term  hat  (two  soft 
fitting  one  over  the  other)  might  suffice  for  the  coolest  mo| 
even  in  cold  weather  the  midday  sun  in  India  is  dangerouSj 
therefore  advisable  to  wear  a  cork  or  pith  helmet,  which  is  li 
better  ventilated,  and  affords  better  protection  from  the  sun 
Terai,  and  is  indispensable  in  real  hot  weather.     Many  London 
have  a  large  choice  of  sun-hats  and  helmets  for  ladies  as  well 
The  Sola  or  pith  hats  are  very  light,  but  brittle  and  soon  spoilt 
they  can  be  bought  in  India  very  cheaply.     A  thick  white 
the  umbrella  is  also  a  necessary,  especially  for  a  lady,  and  a 
for  the  cool  hours  of  the  morning  and  evening  will  be  found 
convenience. 

Travellers  in  Ceylon  will  seldom  require  any  but  the  thi 
clothing,  except  in  the  mountains,  where  the  temperature 
proportionately  cooler  as  he  ascends.     At  Kandy  a  light  over 
at  Nuwara  Eliya  warm  wraps  and  underclothing,  are  necessary. 

Bedding 

Every  traveller  who  contemplates  a  tour  must  on  arrival  in 
provide  himself  with  some  bedding,  which  he  should  take  witha 
everywhere,  even  when  on  a  visit  to  friends,  and  should  have  a 
at  hand  on  a  railway  journey.      Except  at  the  best  hotels, 
is   either  no   bedding   at   all   or  there  is  the  chance  of   its 
dirty.     The  minimum  equipment  is  a  pillow  and  two  cotton  vr&ci 
quilts  (Razais),  one  to  sleep  on,  the  other  as  a  coverlet ;  or  a 
rami  and  a  couple  of  warm  blankets.     The  ready-made  ones  \ 
usually  very  thin,  but  they  can  be  got  to  order  of  any  thickn^ 
To  these  should  be  added  a  pillow  case,  cheap  calico  dieets,  an(S 
blanket      A  waterproof  cover   to  wrap  the  bedding  in  must 
be  omitted,  with   a   pocket   to  contain   pyjamas,   etc.,  or  the 
time  the  bedding  is  carried  any  distance  by  a  cooly  or  packed 
a  pony  it  may  be  very  much  dirtied.     A  waterproof  sheet  is  a  ve 


Introd,  HOTELS — dak  buno/llowb — FOOD  xix 

yaluable  addition  to  the  bedding,  but  cannot  be  called  an  absolute 
necessity  for  a  short  tour.  Without  such  a  modest  supply  of  covering 
as  is  here  indicated,  a  traveller  may  at  any  time  have  to  spend  a  night 
shivering  in  the  cold,  which  woidd  probably  result  in  an  attack  of 
ague.  An  india-rubber  hot-water  bottle  takes  up  very  little  room, 
and  will  often  be  found  very  handy.  Some  persons  carry  their  own 
camp-bed,  which  they  can  rely  upon  being  always  clean. 

Hotels 

He  who  expects  to  find  good  hotels  in  India,  up  to  the  European 
standard  of  excellence,  will  be  disappointed.  Owing  to  the  fact  that 
the  nominal  proprietor  is  often  a  tenant  for  a  short  term,  the  character 
of  a  hotel  may  change  very  suddenly.  At  aU  the  chief  towns  large 
aiiy  rooms  can  be  procured,  but  the  traveller  will  not  be  properly 
waited  upon  imless  he  brings  a  servant  of  his  own  with  him.  He 
should  give  notice  beforehand  of  his  intended  arrival,  as  the  hotels 
are  often  crowded  in  the  tourist  season.  Most  of  the  clubs  admit 
recommended  visitors  as  honorary  members.  A  club  which  has  sleep- 
ing accommodation  is  far  more  comfortable  than  a  hoteL 

Dak  Bungalows 

With  regard  to  dak  bungalows  (travellers'  rest-houses  established 
by  Qovemment),  it  is  advisable  to  make  some  inquiries  beforehand 
as  to  their  accommodation.  In  some  casec  the  keeper  in  charge 
has  facilities  for  procuring  food,  in  others  the  traveller  has  to  bring 
provisions  with  him,  and  in  some  D.Bs.  there  are  neither  servants 
nor  provisions.  The  rooms  have  an  adjoining  bathroom,  and  are 
nsaally  furnished  with  bedstead,  wash-stand,  table  and  chairs,  and 
crockery  and  lights  are  supplied.  They  cannot  be  retained  beforehand 
—the  first  comer  has  the  preference.  After  occupying  a  D.B.  for 
twenty-four  hours  the  traveller  must  give  place,  if  necessary,  to  the 
next  comer. 

Rest-Houbeb 

The  Rest-House  of  Ceylon  is  mere  like  an  hotel  than  the  Dak 
Bungalow  in  India,  in  that  it  is  more  frequently  furnished  with 
bedding  and  linen,  and  food  is  generally  provided. 

Food 

As  a  rule,  the  food  in  India  is  not  good.  The  meat,  with  ex- 
ception of  bullock  hump,  is  lean  and  tough,  and  the  fowls  are 
ildnny  and  smalL  Bread  is  fairly  good;  but  milk  is  dangeroua. 
Aerated  water  should  be  preferred  to  plain  water,  unless  the 
latter  has  passed  through  a  filter  of  the  best  pattern,  which  has 
been  kept  thoroughly  dean.    If  this  cannot  be  ensured  the  water 


XXii  ANCIENT  MONUMBNTB 

the  account  of  that  island  hy  Sir  J.  Emerson  Tennent^  El.  O.  S 
2  vols.,  8vo  (Longman),  1859.  It  has  never  yet  been.  »^ 
Sir  Monier  Williams's  Buddhism^  1  vol.,  Bvo  (MurrayX  183d- 

Army  and  GlylL  Lists  and  a  useful  Postal  guide  are  to  l>e  : 
all  Clubs.    For  books  on  Burma,  see  p.  418. 

The  Preservation  of  Ancient  Monuments 

The  striking  architectural  monuments  of  India — Hindu^  1B\ 
and  Mohammedan — ^must  largely  attract  the  attention  of  tho 
and  the  means,  or  rather  want  of  means,  taken  for  their  pi*e8e 
must  be  a  subject  of  frequent  remark.  Partly  under  outside  pi 
Government  has  made  various  attempts  at  conservation,  but 
carried  out  through  the  engineering  staff  of  the  Public  Works  I 
ment, — the  officers  of  which  have  not  necessarily  any  intimate  laio^ 
of  architecture, — their  work  has  too  frequently  been  seriously  inj 
to  the  monuments  to  be  repaired.  Lamentable  examples  o: 
mischievous  policy  are  numerous.  What  has  been  wanted  i 
guidance  of  the  trained  architect  who  would  strictly  confine  hims 
the  work  of  preservation  and  eschew  everything  of  the  nature  of  n 
Etion,  which  some  engineers  have  been  too  fond  of.  Were  this 
in  connection  with  the  Archaeological  Survey,  the  monuments  of  2 
might  be  rationally  conserved  at  a  minimum  of  outlay.  The  Goi 
ment  of  India  carried  on  for  many  years  an  Archaeological  Survey, 
gether  dissociated  from  any  conservation  of  the  architectural  monum< 
with  which  it  concerned  itself  little,  if  at  all,  but  rather  with 
identification  of  ancient  sites,  coins,  dates,  and  relics  of  long-foi^oi 
times,  interesting  chiefly  to  the  savant.  A  few  years  ago  a  cha 
in  this  respect  was  attempted,  and  a  careful  survey  of  the  monumei 
remains  at  Jaunpur,  Badaun,  Fatehpur-Sikri,  etc.,  was  begun ;  but 
surveys  were  again  reduced  in  1889,  and  only  one  architectural  ass 
ant  and  a  few  native  draughtsmen  were  retained  in  Upper  India.  Wi 
this  department  officered  by  competent  architects  in  the  Punjab,  Beng 
and  Eajputana,  who  could  authoritatively  advise  Government 
questions  of  conservation,  the  safety  of  the  monuments  would  i 
insured,  as  well  as  the  survey.  In  Southern  and  Western  India,  if  ^ 
except  Bijapur,  which  seems  to  have  been  wholly  handed  over  to  tl 
P.  W.  engineer,  the  monuments  have  generally  been  treated  wit 
consideration,  but  many  have  been  too  much  neglected. 


I 


Introd.  ENGLAND  TO  GIBRALTAR  XXiii 

VOYAGE  FROM  ENGLAND  TO  GIBRALTAR,  MALTA,  PORT 
SAID,  THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL  AND  RED  SEA 
TO  ADEN  AND  BOMBAY. 

The  comfort  of  tlie  voyage  depends  much  on  the  choice  of  the  ship, 
and  the  cabin. ^  The  largest  ships,  as  having  less  motion  and  more 
room  on  deck,  are  usually  preferable  to  smaller  ones.  The  cabin 
should  be  as  near  the  centre  of  the  ship  as  possible.  In  going  through 
the  Red  Sea  to  India  the  cabins  on  the  port  side  are  the  best,  as  they 
do  not  get  heated  by  the  afternoon  sun.  On  the  return  voyage  this 
cabins  on  the  starboard  side  are  better,  but  the  difference  is  not  material. 
On  going  on  board  it  is  well  to  secure  a  seat  at  table  at  once,  as 
after  the  first  day  at  sea,  when  seats  have  been  arranged,  it  is  difficult 
to  make  a  change  ;  the  seats  are  usually  allotted  by  the  chief  steward. 

It  is  usual  to  give  at  least  lOs.  as  a  fee  to  the  cabin  steward,  and  10s. 
to  the  one  who  waits  on  you  at  table.  The  doctor  also  is  fee'd  by  those 
who  put  themselves  under  his  care.  Going  by  sea  from  England,  through 
the  Bay  of  Biscay,  the  saving  in  point  of  money,  as  compared  with  the 
expense  of  the  overland  route  across  the  Continent  of  Europe,  is  about 
£15.  It  involves  much  less  trouble,  and  little  or  no  risk  of  losing 
baggage.  The  first  place  sighted  is  generally  Gape  La  Hagfue,  or 
Hogue,  on  the  E.  coast  of  Cotentin  in  France,  off  which,  on  the  19th 
of  May  1692  Admiral  Russell,  afterwards  Earl  of  Oxford,  defeated  De 
Tourville,  and  sunk  or  burned  16  French  men-of-war.  Then  Cape 
Pinisterre  (finis  ierros),  a  promontory  on  the  W.  coast  of  Galicia  in 
Spain,  and  in  N.  lat.  42*  54',  and  W.  long.  9"  20',  will  probably  be 
seen,  off  which  Anson  defeated  the  French,  fleet  in  1747.  The  next 
land  sighted  will  be,  perhaps,  Gape  Boca,  near  Lisbon,  and  then 
Cape  St.  Vincent  in  N.lat  37**  3',  W.  long.  8*59',  at  the  S.W.  comer 
of  the  Portuguese  province  Algarve,  off  which  Sir  G.  Rodney,  on  the 
16th  January  1780  defeated  the  Spanish  fleet,  and  Sir  J.  Jervis  won 
his  earldom  on  the  14th  of  February  1797,  and  Nelson  the  Order 
of  the  Bath,  after  taking  the  S.  Josef  smd  the  S.  Nicholas  of  112  guns 
each.  This  cape  has  a  fort  upon  it,  and  the  white  cliffs,  150  feet 
high,  are  honeycombed  by  the  waves,  which  break  with  great  violence 
npon  them.  From  the  last  three  capes  steamers  are  signalled  to 
Lloyd's.  Just  before  entering  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  Cape  Trafalsrar 
will  also  probably  be  seen  in  N.  lat.  36*^  9',  W.  loner.  6'  1',  immortalised 
by  Nelson's  victory  of  the  2 1  st  of  October  1805.  Gibraltar:  comes  next 
in  sight.  The  following  table  of  distances  is  taken  from  the  pocket-book 
published  by  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company, 
This  little  book,  costing  only  2s.,  can  be  highly  recommended. 

1  Apply  to  Messrs.  Thos,  Cook  &  Son,  either  at  Ludgate  Circus,  Charing 
Cross,  or  35  Piccadilly. 


XZIV 


GIBRALTAR 


India 


Taslb  op  Distances  between  the  vabious  Ports  according  to  the  Routes  taken  by  th 
Steamers  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company 

London  {if  via  PlamQuih  add  50) 

-| 


01 D 


129^  10^4  Qlbniitai- 

2210  2036 
^27$  2027 


S!1$S9^1 


H420:SM4 


' '  'r*-- 


703  0e706e«@ 


31  y  74£0t5l^ 


295,  Flytiioiitli 


&73 


Via  FriRdijii 


moo 


3035 


371HI 


2^10 


2i540 


3613,3303 


4afl54T£0 


083  S2d09350,^J3S  fil£)3 


Mfir&eJIIes 


^1 

BiiO 


2H30 
2271 


Kaplei 


I  Maltii  Ui  Ft  Jit  Bail!  dlruct . ,  Oaa  mil  en. 


Um 


li03  1200  1110 


15511383  [11  S3 


^aSOJ^t]7|4^^9|410O 


e3a^  &()Q6,[iS3s  S'^ofi 


713B  037G,fllflS  507fi 


Trleato 

Venice 

An  conn 


190 


4iK> 


laEKJ 


5458 


12fi 


3D5 


IJ^O 


'270 


lOSlJ 
I2O0, 


BrmOiHl 

Al[txaLndrifl, 


iJHO 


idea 


Fort  Said 

Aden 


4H 


13D5 


smii 


las 


3016 


7023';SiiS  4S2:j 


1604  Boiular 

Colombo 


2703.1  *S.: 


61 Q  Madn 


13!^0 


770  CalcnttflJ 


Calcutj 


907JSl3*S2S3fiS22  S077  7023  O^rt0.0042^58i52  014^jIp077  6fla2'3HJfi2  itf07|l752k709.33a7  21  SO  1264 


1  Calling  it  HarJru, 


3  QmittfJig  Madmif. 


0IBRALTAli.^ — -As  the  steamers  never  stop  for  mor*j  than  o  few 
hours,  passen^^rs  rarely  find  time  fttr  ^uylhiiifr  beyond  a  walk  in  the 
town  and  loiier  fortifications,  Tliis  iii  a  good  place  to  buy  tohjicco, 
as  thet-e  is  no  duty  arni  it  is  cliLuT^p.  ThL-re  are  steamers  from  Gibraltar 
two  or  three  times  a  week  tn  Tanj^ier. 

Gibraltar  wae  reekoned  as  one  of  the  Pillar??  of  Hercules,  the  other 
beiii^  Abyla,  now  Ajies^  Hill,  Gibraltai'  was  taken  from  the  Spaniards 
in  7H  A.D.  by  Taiik  ibii  ^ayatl^  from  wlmm  it  was  calh^d  Jabal  al 
Tank  =  Gibraltar  -  aud  it  waa  retaken  1309  ;  and  not  finally  wrested 
fpojii  the  Moors  till  1503.  In  3704  it  Wfm  taken  by  the  Enf^liah,  and 
sustained  many  sieges  by  rrench  and  Spaniards  between  1704  and  1779. 
la  tJie  latter  ymr  uommeiiced  the  meinorablu  sie^e  wliicli  lasted  4 
' " '    '  ^~4  ended  by  the  I'epulse  of  the  combined  fleets  of  Prance  and 


i 


IfUrod.  GIBRALTAR  XXV 

Spain  by  the  garrison  under  General  Elliott.  Since  that  time  it  has 
remained  an  uncontested  possession  of  the  English. 

The  JElock  of  Gibraltar  first  comes  in  sight  at  the  distance  of  about 
10  m.  Rounding  Point  Camero,  and  breasting  Europa  Point,  the 
spacious  but  exposed  bay  6  m.  wide  and  10  m.  deep  is  entered.  The 
defensive  strength  of  the  place  is  not  at  once  perceptible.  Two  tiers  of 
batteries  are  concealed  in  galleries  hewn  out  of  the  rock  half-way  up, 
or  lie  so  near,  to  the  sea-line  that  they  are  hidden  by  the  vessels  moored 
around.  Gibraltar  is  a  vast  rocky  promontory,  which  on  the  N.  side 
rises  in  a  perpendicular  precipicb  1200  ft  high,  and  ascends  in  the 
centre  to  1408  ft.  It  is  3  m.  in  length,  and  from  ^  m.  to  J  m.  in  breadth. 
It  is  joined  to  the  mainland  by  a  low  sandy  isthmus,  l|  m.  in  length. 
On  all  sides  but  the  W.  it  is  steep  and  rugged,  but  on  that  side  there 
is  a  general  slope  from  200  to  300  ft.  from  the  rock  down  to  the  sea. 
On  this  side  the  eye  catches  three  high  points :  N.  is  the  Rock  G-un, 
or  Wolf's  Oragr,  1337  ft.  ;  in  the  centre  the  Upper  Signal  Station, 
or  Bl  Hacho,  1256  ft  high  ;  and  S.  is  O'Hara's  Tower,  1408  ft. 
Here  the  rock  descends  to  Windmill  Hill  Plats,  a  level  plateau  J 
10.  long,  which  ends  in  a  still  lower  plateau  from  100  to  50  ft.  above 
the  sea,  called  Europa  Flats.  The  new  mole,  landing-place,  and  dock- 
yard are  on  the  W.  of  O'Hara's  Tower. 

Passports  are  rigidly  exacted  on  landing  from  all  but  British  subjects, 
and  sketching  is,  under  all  circumstances,  strictly  prohibited.  The 
hours  of  gun-fire  vary  according  to  the  time  of  year,  but  are  easily 
ascertained ;  a  few  minutes  later  all  gates  are  shut  and  not  opened 
again  till  sunrise. 

Walk  or  drive  up  Main  Street  as  far  as  the  Alameda,  where  the 
hand  plays  ;  it  was  the  parade-ground  until  1814,  when  Sir  George  Don 
made  a  garden  of  it,  and  it  is  now  really  lovely.  Notice  a  column 
brought  from  the  ruins  of  Lepida,  surmounted  by  a  bust  of  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  also  a  bust  of  General  Elliott,  the  hero  of  the  great  siege. 
Half-way  is  the  Exchangre,  containing  a  commercial  library,  with  the 
Ohib  House  to  the  W.,  and  the  King's  Arms  Hotel  to  the  E.  The 
English  Cathedral  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  built  in  the  Moorish 
style  in  1832,  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  town.  Returning  through 
the  South.  Port  Q-ate,  look  at  the  dockyard,  and  passing  by  the  South 
Barracks,  take  the  lower  of  two  roads  to  Europa  Point,  N.E.  of  which 
a  another  range  of  barracks.  Beyond  these,  on  the  E.  shore,  is  the 
lummer  residence  of  the  Governors,  called  "  The  Cottage,"  built  by 
General  Fox.  The  Governor's  official  residence  in  South  Port  Street, 
which  is  still  called  "  The  Convent,"  once  belonged  to  Franciscan  friars. 

Those  remaining  several  days  will  have  time  to  explore  the  Heights 
and  fortifications,  for  which  purpose  an  order  from  the  military  secre- 
tary is  necessary.  From  the  Rock  Gun  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the 
Ronda  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  the  Moorish  Castle  is  on 


xxvi  MALTA  India 

the  way  (746  A.D.);  under  a  massive  tower,  called  the  Torre  de 
Omenaga,  are  some  well-constructed  tanks  ;  and  beyond,  the  wonderful 
galleries  excavated  by  convict  labour.  At  the  Sigmal  House  refresh- 
ments can  be  obtained,  and  from  it  is  a  noble  view,  which  includes  the 
Atlas  Mountains,  Ceuta,  and  Barbary,  ending  with  the  Bay  of  Tangieis. 
Between  Rock  Gun  and  O'Hara's  Tower  live  a  few  monkeys,  which 
are  jealously  protected.  S.  of  the  Signal  Station,  and  1100  ft  above 
the  sea,  is  the  celebrated  St  Michael's  Cave,  open  twice  .a  week  ;  an 
entrance  only  6  ft  wide  leads  into  a  hall  200  ft.  long  and  60  ft  high 
supported  by  stala?.tite  pillars  like  Gdthic  arches.  Beyond  are  smaller 
caves,  which  have  been  traversed  to  a  distance  of  288  ft  In  Windmill 
Hill  are  the  four  Genista  caves,  where  many  bones  of  men  and  animals 
have  been  dieMX>vered. 

Beyond  the  Land  Port  Gate  is  a  causeway  leading  into  Spain,  with 
the  sea  on  the  left,  and  the  "  Inundation,"  a  sheet  of  water  so  called, 
on  the  right.  Beyond  these  is  the  North  Front,  where  are  the  ceme- 
tery, the  cricket-ground,  and  the  race-course.  The  eastern  beach,  called 
"  Ramsgate  and  Margate,"  is  the  general  afternoon  resort.  Across  the 
isthmus  is  a  line  of  English  sentries,  then  the  Neutral  Ground,  and  then 
the  Spanish  sentries.  6  m.  from  Gibraltar  is  a  small  hill,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  the  town  of  S.  Roque,  and  1  m.  beyond  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Carteia  are  passed.  4  m.  from  S.  Roque  is  an  inn, 
and  then  a  ride  through  the  cork  woods  of  about  4  m.  brings  the 
'Visitor  to  the  Convent  of  Almorainia  and  the  Long  Stables.  10  m. 
from  Gibraltar  by  land,  and  beyond  the  rivers  Guadarauque  and 
Palmones,  is  the  town  of  Algesiras,  where  there  is  good  anchorage, 
and  steamers  to  various  ports  in  Spain. 

Malta. — On  the  way  from  Gibraltar  to  Malta,  Algriers  may  possibly 
be  seen,  its  white  buildings  stretching  like  a  triangle  with  its  base  on 
the  sea,  and  the  apex  on  higher  ground.  Cape  Fez,  and  the  promon- 
tory of  the  Seven  Oapes,  jagged,  irregular  headlands,  are  passed  on  the 
starboard  side,  also  Cape  Bon,  the  most  northern  point  of  Africa,  and 
the  Island  of  Pantellaria,  the  ancient  Cossyra,  between  Cape  Bon  and 
Sicily.  It  is  8  m.  long,  volcanic,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  more  than 
2000  ft  There  is  a  town  of  the  same  name  near  the  sea-shore,  on  the 
western  slope,  where  there  is  much  cultivation.  It  is  used  by  the 
Italians  as  a  penal  settlement,  and  is  rather  smaller  than  Gozo.  The 
Maltese  group  of  islands  consists  of  Gk>zo,  Coinino,  and  Malta.,  and 
stretches  from  N.W.  to  S.E.,  the  total  distance  from  San  Dimitri,  the 
most  W.  point  of  Gozo,  to  Ras  Benhisa,  the  most  S.  part  of  Malta, 
being  about  25  m.  From  the  nearest  point  of  Gozo  to  Sicily  is  65  m., 
and  Africa  is  187  m.  distant  from  Malta. 

Malta  lies  in  N.  lat  35"  53'  49",  E.  long.  14"  30'  28".  It  is  17 
m.  long  and  8  broad.  Its  area,  together  with  that  of  Gozo,  is  116 
sq.  m.,  and  the  population  of  the  three  islands  is  about  150,000.     It 


IfUrod.  UJLLTJL  zxvii 

is  a  calcareous  rock,  the  highest  point  being  590  ft  above  the  sea-leveL 
Towards  the  S.  it  ends  in  precipitous  cliffs.     It  has  a  barren  appear* 
ance^  but  there  are  many  fertile  gardens  and  fields,  enclosed  in  high 
walls,  where  fine  oranges,  grapes,  and  figs,  and  other  crops,  returning 
from  thirty  to  sixty  fold,  are  grown.     The  Maltese  language  is  a  mix- 
ture of  Arabic  and  Italian,  but  most  of  the  townspeople  have  sufficient 
knowledge  of  Italian  to  transact  business  in  that  tongue.     The  port  of 
Malta  is  situated  somewhat  to  the  K  of  the  centre  of  the  northern 
shore  of  the  island.     It  consists  of  two  fine  harbours,  separated  by  the 
narrow  promontory  called  Mount  Xiberras,  or  Sciberras.  The  western 
or  qnarantine  harbour,  protected  by  Fort  Tigrna  on  the  W.,  is  called 
Marsamuscatta ;  the  other  is  Valetta,  or  the  great  harbour, — it  is 
there  that  the  men-of-war  are  moored.     The  entrance  to  the  great 
harbour  is  protected  on  the  W.  by  Fort  St.  Elmo  at  the  end  of 
Sciberras,  and  on  the  E.  by  Fort  Bicasoli,  both  very  formidable.     At 
Fort  St  Elmo  is  one  of  the  finest  lighthouses  in  the  Mediterranean. 
The  great  harbour  runs  away  into  numerous  creeks  and  inlets,  in  which 
are  tiie  dockyard,  victualling-yard,  and  arsenal,  all  of  which  could  be 
swept  by  the  guns  of  St.  Angelo,  which  is  a  fort  behind  St.  Elmo. 
The  mail  steamers  are  moored  in  the  quarantine  harbour,  and  the 
charge  for  landing  is  one  shilling  for  a  boat,  which  will  carry  four 
people.     On  landing,  a  long  flight  of  steps  is  ascended  to  the  Strada 
San  Maroo,  which  leads  to  the  principal  street,  Strada  Beale, 
I  m.  long,  in  the  town  of  Valetta,  so-called  from  Jean  de  la  Valette, 
Grand  Master  of  the  Knights  of  St  John  of  Jerusalem,  who  built  it 
after  the  Turkish  armament  sent  against  Malta  by  Sultan  Sulaiman  II. 
had  been  repulsed.     The  foundation  stone  was  laid  on  the  28th  of 
March  1566,  and  the  whole  town,  designed  by  one  architect,  Girolamo 
Cassar,  was  completed  in  May  1571.     On  the  E.  side  of  the  great 
harbour  is  the  town  called  Citta  Vittoriosa. 

Left  of  the  Strada  Reale  is  St.  John's  Cathedral,  a  remarkable 
chnrch,  both  historically  and  architecturally,  designed  by  Cassar. 
The  floor  is  paved  with  slabs  bearing  the  arms  of  scores  of  knights 
who  have  been  interred  in  this  church.  In  the  first  chapel  on  the 
right,  the  altar-piece  represents  the  beheading  of  John  the  Baptist,  and 
i«  by  M.  Angelo  Caravaggio.  In  the  next  chapel,  which  belonged  to 
the  Portuguese,  are  the  monuments  of  Manoel  Pinto  and  Grand  Master 
Manoel  de  Yilhena,  which  latter  is  of  bronze.  The  third,  or  Spanish 
chapel,  has  the  monuments  of  Grand  Masters  Perellos  and  N.  Cotoner, 
and  two  others.  The  fourth  chapel  belonged  to  the  Provencals.  The 
fifth  chapel  is  sacred  to  the  Virgin,  and  here  are  kept  the  town  keys 
taken  from  the  Turks.  On  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  bronze  monu- 
ment of  Grand  Master  Marc  Antonio  Sondadario.  The  first  chapel  on 
the  left  is  the  sacristy.  The  second  chapel  belonged  to  the  Anstrians, 
the  third  to  Italians,  and  here  are  pictures,  ascribed  to  Caravaggio,  of 


Mviii  MALTA  hidia 

St.  Jerome  and  Mary  Mj^dalene.  The  fourth  is  the  French  chapel, 
the  fifth  the  Bavarian,  and  hence  a  staircase  descends  to  the  crypt, 
where  are  the  sarcophagi  of  the  first  Grand  Master  who  ruled  in  Malta, 
L'lsle  Adam,  and  of  La  Valette  and  others. 

The  Gtovernor'B  Palace,  formerly  the  Grand  Master's,  close  to  the 
Strada  Reale,  is  a  noble  range  of  buildings,  containing  marble-paved 
corridors  and  staircase,  and  many  portraits,  and  armed  figures  carrying 
the  shields  of  all  the  Governors  from  the  first  Grand  Master  to  the 
present  day.  The  armoury  is  full  of  interesting  relics,  including  the 
original  deed  granted  to  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem  by  Pope 
Pascal  II.  in  1126,  and  the  deed  when  they  left  Rhodes  in  1522.  The 
Library,  close  to  the  Palace,  contains  40,000  volumes,  and  some  Phoe- 
nician and  Roman  antiquities.  The  highest  battery  commands  a  fine 
view  of  both  harbours  and  of  the  fortifications.  There  are  several  statues 
of  Grand  Masters  and  Governors  in  the  walk  on  the  ramparts.  The 
Opera  House,  the  Bourse,  the  Courts  of  Justice,  once  the  Auberge 
d'Auvergne,  and  the  Olubs  (the  Union  Club  was  the  Auberge  de 
Provence),  and  the  statues  of  L'Isle  Adam  and  La. Valette,  are  all  in 
the  Strada  Reale.  The  Auberge  d'ltalie  is  now  the  engineer's  office ; 
the  Auberge  de  Castille  has  become  the  headquarters  of  the  Artillery  ; 
the  Auberge  de  France,  in  the  Strada  Mezzodi,  is  now  the  house  of  the 
Comptroller  of  Military  Stores ;  and  the  Auberge  d'Aragon  is  where 
the  General  of  the  Garrison  resides.  The  Auberge  d'Allemagne  was 
removed  in  order  to  erect  St.  Paul's  Church  on  its  site.  The  Anglo- 
Bavarian  Auberge  is  the  headquarters  of  the  regiment  stationed  at  St. 
Elmo.  The  Military  Hospital  has  the  largest  room  in  Europe,  480 
ft.  long,  erected  in  1628  by  Grand  Master  Vasconcelos.  Below  the 
Military  Hospital  is  the  Civil  Hospital  for  Incurables,  founded  by 
Caterina  Scappi  in  1646.  Where  the  Strada  Mercanti  joins  the  Strada 
S.  Giovanni  a  large  hook  may  be  observed,  which  formerly  served  as 
the  Pillory.  For  further  information  consult  the  Guide  to  Malta, 
included  in  Murray's  Handbook  to  the  Mediterranean.  The  island  on 
which  the  Quarantine  House  stands  was  captured  by  the  Turks  in  1565. 
The  Parlettario  there  is  a  long,  narrow  room  near  the  anchorage,  divided 
by  a  barrier,  where  the  gold  and  silver  filigree- work,  the  cameos,  brace- 
lets and  brooches  in  mosaic,  and  other  bijouterie  for  which  Malta  is 
famous  are  sold.  Maltese  lace  and  silk  embroidery  should  be  bought 
under  the  advice  of  an  expert,  for  the  vendors  in  general  demand 
extravagant  prices.  In  the  wall  of  a  house  in  Strada  Strella  and  Strada 
Britannica  is  a  stone  with  an  Arabic  inscription,  dated  Thursday  1 6th 
Shaban  569  A.H.  =  21st  March  1174  a.d.,  for  which  see  Journal  Roy. 
Ab.  Sac.  vol.  vi.  p.  173. 

Five  m.  beyond  the  landing-stairs  is  the  Governor's  country  Palace 
of  S.  Antonio,  where  is  a  lovely  garden  with  creepers  of  astonishing 
beautv,  and  cypresses  40  ft.  high,  as  well  as  many  luxuriant  orange 


Mrod.  HAI/TA  xixx 

trees.  About  |  m.  farther  to  the  S.W.  is  Oitta  Vecohia,  which 
stands  on  a  ridge  from  200  to  300  fL  high,  affording  a  view  over  nearly 
the  whole  island.  There  is  a  fine  church  here,  St.  Paul's  ;  near  it  are 
lome  curious  catacombs.  This  is  all  that  it  is  possible  to  see  during  the 
short  stay  steamers  usually  make,  but  those  who  have  more  leisure  can 
visit  St.  Paul's  Bay  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of  the  island,  with  the 
statue  of  bronze  erected  on  an  islet  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay.  Also 
the  Carthaginian  or  Phoenician  ruins  at  Hagiar  Chexn,  properly  Hajar 
Eaim,  '*  upright  stone,"  near  the  village  of  Casal  Crendi,  1^  hour's  drive 
from  Yaletta.  These  ruins,  excavated  in  1839,  consist  of  walls  of  large 
stones  fixed  upright  in  the  ground,  forming  small  enclosures,  connected 
with  one  another  by  passages,  and  all  contained  within  one  large  enclos- 
ure. The  building  is  thought  to  have  been  a  temple  of  Baal  and 
Astarte.  The  main  entrance  is  on  the  S.S.E.,  and  a  passage  leads  from 
it  into  a  court,  on  the  left  of  which  is  an  altar,  with  the  semblance 
Qf  a  plant  rudely  sculptured  on  it  Similar  remains  are  found  in  other 
parts  of  Malta  and  in  Gozo. 

Malta  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Phoenicians  in  1500  B.C., 
and  by  the  Greeks  in  750  B.a  The  Carthaginians  got  possession  of  it 
in  500  B.C.,  and  the  Eomans  took  it  after  the  sea-fight  of  Putatia  in 
215  ac.  The  Goths  and  Vandals  invaded  it  in  420  a.d.  In  520  a.d. 
Belisarius  made  it  a  province  of  the  Byzantine  Empire,  the  Moslems 
conquered  it  in  730  a.d.,  and  Count  Boger,  the  Norman,  captured  it  in 
1100  A.D.  It  then  passed  to  Louis  IX.,  to  the  Count  of  Anjou,  and  to 
the  Kings  of  Castile,  and  then  to  Charles  Y.,  who  gave  it,  in  1530,  to 
the  Knights  Hospitallers  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem.  On  1 8th  May  1565 
the  Turks  attacked  St  Elmo,  St.  ^gelo,  and  Sanglea,  but  the  siege  was 
raised  on  the  8th  of  September  (see  Major  WhitwortJh  Porter's  History 
of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  Longmans,  1858).  The  Knights  had  their  own 
mint,  fleet,  and  army,  and  accredited  ambassadors  to  foreign  Courts. 
In  the  archives  are  letters  from  Henry  VIII.,  Charles  II.,  and  Anne, 
addressed  to  them  as  princes.  On  the  7th  of  September  1792  the 
French  Directory  commanded  the  Order  to  be  annuUed,  and  seized  all 
its  French  possessions.  On  the  7th  of  June  1798  Bonaparte  arrived 
with  a  fleet  of  18  ships  of  the  line,  18  frigates,  and  600  transports, 
and  Malta  was  surrendered.  A  tree  of  liberty  was  planted  before  the 
Palace,  the  decorations  of  the  Knights  were  burned,  and  the  churches, 
palaces,  and  charitable  houses  at  Valetta  and  Citta  Vecchia  were 
pillaged.  On  the  2d  of  September  1798,  when  the  French  tried  to 
pull  down  the  decorations  in  the  Cathedral,  a  general  revolt  took 
place,  and  Nelson  sent  Captain  Alexander  John  Ball  with  a  frigate  to 
lid  the  Maltese,  and  himself  blockaded  Valetta.  The  French  were 
reduced  to  such  extremities  that  a  rat  sold  for  Is.  7d.,  and  on  the  5th 
of  September  1800  their  commander.  General  Vaubois,  surrendered. 
Over  tiie  main  guard-room  in  St  George's  Square  is  written  : 


XXX  EGYPT,  POBT  SAID,  AND  THS  SUEZ  OANAL  India 

**  MaffiuB  et  inyict»  Britannia 
Meutensium  amor  et  £urop«  vox 
Has  insnlas  confirmat  a.d.  1814." 

Egypt,  Port  Said,  aot)  the  Suez  Oanal. — ^The  land  about 
Port  Sidd  is  so  low,  that  the  approach  to  the  harbour  would  be  difficult 
were  it  not  for  a  lighthouse  160  ft  high,  built  of  concrete,  which 
stands  on  the  sea-shore  to  the  right  of  the  harbour  close  to  the  W. 
mole,  and  shows  an  electric  light  flashing  every  20  seconds,  and  visible 
20  m.  off.  The  harbour  is  formed  by  two  breakwaters,  1600  yards 
apart,  built  of  concrete,  the  western  2726  yards  long,  the  eastern  1962 
yards  long.  A  red  light  is  shown  at  the  end  of  the  W.  mole,  and  a 
green  one  at  the  end  of  the  R  The  depth  of  water  at  the  entrance  is 
30  ft.  Since  the  works  were  begun,  the  sea  has  receded  ^  m.,  and  a 
bank  has  formed  to  the  N.W.  of  the  entrance,  having  only  4  to  5 
fathoms  water  on  it,  and  it  increases,  being  caused  by  a  current  which 
sets  along  the  shore,  and  meeting  the  sea  rolling  in  from  the  N.,  is 
forced  back,  and  deposits  its  silt.  Inside  the  W.  jetty  another  bank 
is  forming,  and  extends  100  ft  every  year.  In  1874  the  channel 
was  dredged  out  to  29  ft,  and  by  1876  it  had  filled  again  to  26  ft. 
Port  Said  town  is  modem,  and  though- not  very  inviting,  consisting 
mainly  of  wooden  houses,  chiefly  low  caf^s  and  gambling-houses,  with 
some  shops,  has,  since  1890,  been  improved,  and  is  a  very  important 
coaling-station.  -  Opposite  the  anchorage  on  the  Marina  is  the  French 
office,  where  pilots  are  got,  and  where  they  take  a  note  of  the  ship's 
draught,  breadth,  length,  and  tonnage.  In  this  office  there  is  a  wooden 
plan  of  the  canal,  along  which  wooden  pegs,  with  flags,  are  placed, 
showing  the  exact  position  of  every  vessel  passing  through  the  canaL 
The  Arab  quarter  lies  to  the  W.,  and  contains  over  7600  souls  and  a 
mosque.  The  Place  de  Lesseps  in  the  centre  of  this  quai-ter  has  a 
garden,  and  some  houses  of  a  better  sort  The  streets  swarm  with  flies, 
and  mosquitoes  also  are  numerous.  The  Exchange  Hotel  may  be  recom- 
mended. There  are  Coptic  and  Syrian  churches,  as  well  as  Protestant 
and  Catholic.     Trains  leave  for  Ismailia,  Suez,  and  Cairo  twice  daily. 

The  GaJial,^  opened  in  1870,  is  in  round  numbers  100  m.  in 
length,  and  as  far  as  Ismailia,  that  is  for  about  42  m.,  it  runs  due  N. 
and  S.  It  the^  bends  to  the  E.  for  about  36  m.,  and  is  again  almost 
straight  for  the  last  20  m. 

The  following  were  the  dimensions  of  the  canal,  which  is  now 
being  widened  (see  Hcmdbooh  of  Egypt), 

Width  at  water-line,  where  banks  are  low        .        .  328  ft. 

ft                 in  deep  cuttings       .        ,  190  „ 

,,                  at  base 72  „ 

Depth 26  „ 

Slope  of  bank  at  water-line  1  in  5 ;  near  base  1  in  2.  , 

^  For  a  history  of  the  canal,  see  Handbook  qfJSgypt,  John  Murray. 


Introd,  ISMAILIA  xzxi 

Every  few  m,  there  is  a  gaxe,  or  station,  and  a  siding  with  signal 
posts,  by  which  the  traffic  is  regulated  according  to  the  block  system 
by  hoisting  black  balls.  Every  year  the  navigation  is  rendered  easier 
by  the  construction  of  additional  sidings.  Traffic  is  carried  on  through 
the  canal  at  night  by  the  aid  of  electric  light.  Vessels  must  not 
move  faster  than  6  m.  an  hour. 

On  the  W.  of  the  canal,  as  far  as  Al  Kantarah  (the  Bridge),  that 
is  for  about  one>fourth  of  the  way,  there  is  a  broad  expanse  of  water, 
called  Lake  ManzalaJti,  and  for  the  rest  of  the  distance  to  the  W.,  and 
the  whole  distance  to  the  E.,  a  sandy  desert,  on  which  foxes,  jackals, 
hyenas,  and,  it  is  said,  occasionally  even  lions,  wander  at  night  21  m., 
or  34  kiL,  from  Eantarah,  and  20  m.  from  Port  Said,  the  old  Pelusiac 
branch  of  the  Nile  is  crossed,  and  8  m.  to  the  S.E.  are  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Pelusiuni.  At  Kantarah  the  caual  intersects  the 
caravan-track  between  Egypt  and  Syria,  and  is  crossed  by  a  -flying 
bridge ;  a  traveller  should  go  on  the  upper  deck  of  his  ship 
when  approaching  it,  as,  if  a  caravan  chances  to  be  passing,  it 
is  a  most  interesting  sight.  10  m.  to  the  W,  is  Tel  al  Daphne, 
the  site  of  Daphne,  the.  Taphnes  of  Judith,  i.  9.  At  2  m.  S. 
of  Eantarah  the  canal  enters  the  Lake  Ballah,  and  after  12  ni. 
reaches  the  promontory  Al  Fardanah,  which  it  cuts  through. 
Thence,  after  4^  m.,  it  reaches  Al  Girsh,  the  highest  ground  in 
the  isthmus,  65  ft.  above  sea-leveL  There  was  a  great  camp  here 
when  the  works  were  in  progress.  A  staircase  of  100  steps  led 
down  to  the  canaL  Beyond  l^is,  near  the  entrance  to  Lake  Timsah, 
a  small  canal  joins  the  maritime  canal  to  the  Fresh- Water  CanaL 
The  dilFerence  of  level  is  17  ft,  which  is  overcome  by  two  locks. 
A  steam-launch  comes  to  meet  steamers  on  the  canal,  and  land 
passengers  for 

IsmaiIjIA,  pop.  4000,  which  has  now  much  of  the  importance  and 
traffic  that  formerly  belonged  to  Suez  ;  the  mails  and  passengers  for 
Egypt  are  landed  here — hotel.  A  broad  road  lined  with  trees  leads  from 
the  landing-place  across  the  Fresh-Water  Canal  to  the  Quai  Mehemet, 
and  traverses  the  town  from  E.  to  W.  In  the  W.  quarter  are  the 
stations,  the  landing-quays  of  the  Fresh- Water  Canal,  and  large  blocks 
of  warehouses,  and  beyond  them  the  Arab  village.  In  the  E.  part  are 
the  houses  of  the  employ^,  the  residence  of  the  Khedive,  which  was 
used  as  a  military  hospital  during  the  English  occupation  of  Ismailia 
in  1882,  and  the  works  by  which  water  is  pumped  from  the  Fresh- 
Water  Canal  to  Port  Said.  These  are  worth  visiting.  At  Ismailia 
there  is  much  vegetation,  and  some  good  houses, — one  belongs  to  M. 
de  Lesseps.  There  is  good  water-fowl  shooting  here,  and  some  ante- 
lopes are  to  be  found.  The  fish  of  Lake  Timsah  are  better  flavoured 
than  those  of  the  Mediterranean.  Lake  Timsah,  or  Bahr  al  Timsah, 
*'  the  Lake  of  the  Crocodile/'  to  which  the  Bed  Sea  is  said  to  have 


XKxii  BUE2  InAia 

formerly  extended,  is  crossed  in  about  2^  m.  The  course  is  marked 
by  buoys.  After  4  m.  the  canal  reaches  the  higher  ground  of  Tassum, 
where  the  level  of  the  desert  is  20  ft  above  the  sea,  and  here  the  first 
working  encampment  in  the  S.  half  of  the  isthmus  was  formed  in 
1859.  Three  m.  to  the  S.  is  Serapeuxn,  where  the  level  is  from  15  to 
25  ft.  above  the  sea,  so  called  from  some  remains  of  a  temple  of  Serapis. 

A  mile  and  a  half  from  this  the  canal  enters  the  Bitter  Ijafa^, 
where  the  course  is  buoyed.  These  lakes  are  the  ancient  Qulf  of 
Heraeopolis.  At  the  N.  and  S.  ends  of  the  principal  lake  is  an  iron 
lighthouse  65  ft.  high,  on  a  solid  masonry  base.  After  28  m.  the 
deep  cutting  of  Shaluf  is  reached,  in  which  is  a  band  of  sandstone^ 
with  layers  of  limestone  and  conglomerate,  in  which  fossil  remains 
of  the  shark,  hippopotamus,  tortoise,  and  whale  have  been  found. 
From  this  to  the  Suez  mouth  of  the  canal  is  12|^  m.  Some  think 
that  the  passage  of  the  Israelites  was  through  the  Gulf  of  Heneopolis. 

All  the  way  from  Ismailia  the  banks  are  fringed  with  vegetation,^ 
and  the  plain  on  either  side  is  dotted  with  bushes.  There  is  a  little 
fishing  in  the  canal  for  those  who  like  the  amusement,  and  at  Suez  there 
is  a  great  variety  of  fish. 

Suez. — The  chief  historical  interest  o£  Suez  is  derived  from  its  having 
been  supposed  to  be  the  spot  near  which  the  Israelites  crossed  the  Red 
Sea  under  the  guidance  of  Moses,  and  where  the  Egyptian  army  was 
drowned,  but  modern  criticism  tends  to  place  the  scene  of  this  event 
farther  N.  In  the  early  years  of  the  18th  century  Suez  was  little  better 
than  a  small  fishing-village,  galvanised  now  and  then  into  commercial 
life  by  the  passage  of  caravans  going  to  and  fro  between  Asia  and  Egypt 
But  in  1837,  owing  to  the  exertions  of  Lieutenant  Waghom,  the  route 
through  Egypt  was  adopted  for  the  transit  of  the  Indian  mail,  and  a 
few  years  after  the  P.  &  0.  Company  began  running  a  line  of 
steamers  regularly  between  India  and  Suez.  This  was  followed  in 
1857  by  the  completion  of  a  railway  from  Cairo  (since  destroyed),  and 
Suez  soon  began  to  increase  again  in  size  and  importance.  It  suffered, 
however,  from  the  want  of  fresh  water  until  the  completion  (1863)  of 
the  Fresh-Water  Canal  to  Suez  brought  an  abundance  of  Nile  water 
to  the  town ;  and  the  various  works  in  connection  with  the  Suez  Canal, 
the  new  quays,  the  docks,  etc.,  raised  the  population  to  15,000.  With 
the  completion  of  the  canal,  the  activity  of  the  town  decreased,  and 
since  the  transfer  of  the  mails  to  Ismailia,  the  place  has  been  almost 
deserted,  and  the  fine  quays  and  warehouses  are  unused,  as  steamers 
now  usually  anchor  in  the  Roads.  There  is  a  railway  line  to 
Ismailia  and  Port  Said. 

The  Old  Town  itself  offers  few  points  of  interest.  To  the  N.  of 
the  town  are  the  storehouses  of  the  P.  &  0.  Company,  the  lock 
which  terminates  the  Fresh-Water  Canal,  the  English  Hospital,  and, 
on  tbe  heights  above,  is  the  chalet  of  the  Khedive,  from  which  there  is 


Introd.  EXCURSION  to  wells  of  hoses  xxziii 

a  magnificent  view ;  in  the  foreground  is  the  town,  the  harbour,  the 
roadstead,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Suez  Canal ;  to  the  right  the  range 
of  Ghebel  Attckkah,  a  most  striking  and  beautiful  object,  with  its 
black-violet  heights  hemming  in  the  Bed  Sea  ;  away  to  the  left,  though 
considerably  farther  S.,  are  the  rosy  peaks  of  the  Mount  Sinai  range  ; 
and  between  the  two,  the  deep  blue  of  the  gulf. 

The  whole  of  the  ground  on  which  the  quays  and  other  constructions 
stand  has  been  recovered  from  the  sea. 

BXCUBSION  TO  "Wells  of  Moses. — A  pleasant  excursion  may  be 
made  to  the  Wells  or  Fountains  of  Moses,  Ain  Musa.  (This 
is  the  quarantine  station  for  Suez.)  From  a  steamer  in  the  roadstead 
the  wells  look  quite  near.  It  will  occupy,  according  to  the  route 
taken  and  the  time  spent  at  the  place,  from  half  a  day  to  a  day. 
The  shortest  way  is  to  take  a  sailing  -  boat,  or  one  of  the  small 
steamers  tbat  ply  between  the  town  and  the  harbour,  as  far  as  the 
jetty,  which  has  been  built  out  into  the  sea  tot  communicate  with  the 
new  Quarantine  lately  established  on  the  shore  of  the  gulf  for  the 
reception  of  the  pilgrims  on  their  return  from  Mecca.  From  this 
point  to  Ain  Musa  the  distance  is  not  much  over  a  mile  ;  if  donkeys 
are  required  between  the  jetty  and  the  Wells,  they  must  be  sent  from 
Suez.  The  other  plan  is  to  cross  over  in  a  boat  to  the  old  Quarantine 
jetty,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  town,  either  taking  donkeys  in  the 
boat  or  sending  themi  on  previously,  and  then  to  cross  the  Suez  Canal 
by  the  ferry  used  for  the  passage  of  caravans  between  Arabia  and 
S^gypt,  and  ride  along  the  desert  to  the  Wells.  Or  the  boat  may  be 
taken  down  to  the  entrance  to  the  canal,  and  then  up  it  a  short 
way  to  the  usual  starting-point  for  the  WeUs.  Either  of  these  routes 
will  take  from  three  to  four  hours.  The  sums  to  be  paid  for  boats 
and  donkeys  had  better  be  strictly  agreed  upon  beforehand.  There 
are  two  so-called  hotels  at  Ain  Musa,  where  beds  and  refreshments 
can.  be  procured,  but  the  visitor  who  intends  spending  the  day 
there  had  better,  perhaps,  take  some  food  with  him.  This  excursion 
may  be  combined  with  a  visit  to  the  docks,  the  traveller  landing  there 
on  his  return. 

The  "  Wells  "  are  a  sort  of  oasis,  formed  by  a  collection  of  springs, 
Borrounded  with  tamarisk  bushes  and  palm  trees.  Since  it  has  become, 
as  Dean  Stanley  calls  it,  **  the  Richmond  of  Suez," — a  regular  picnicking 
place  for  the  inhabitants  of  that  town, — some  Arabs  and  Europeans 
have  regularly  settled  in  it,  and  there  are  now  a  few  houses,  and 
gudens  with  fruit  trees  and  vegetables.  The  water  from  the  springs 
has  a  brackish  taste.  Most  of  them  are  simply  holes  dug  in  the  soil, 
which  is  here  composed  of  earth,  sand,  and  clay  ;  but  one  is  built  up 
of  massive  masonry  of  great  age.  Though  not  mentioned  in  the  Bible, 
its  position  has  always  caused  it  to  be  associated  with  the  passage  of 
the  Bed  Sea  by  the  Israelites,  and  tradition  has  fixed  upon  it  as  the 
llndia]  c 


xzxiT  THB  nvD  SEA  India 

»pot  wbere  Moses  and  Miriam  and  the  Children  of  Israel  sang  their 
song  of  triumph. 

The  Bbd  Sea. — A  fresh  breeze  from  the  N.  generally  prevails  for 
two-thirds  of  the  voyage  down  the  Red  Sea,  and  is,  dnring  the  winter 
months,  succeeded  by  an  equally  strong  wind  ttom  tiie  S.  for  th&rest  of 
the  way.  During  the  summer,  the  wind  from  the  N.  blows  through- 
out the  sea,  but  is  light  in  the  southern  half,  and  the  heat  is  great 
The  Sinaitic  ransre  is  the  first  remarkable  land  viewed  to  the  £., 
but  Sinai  itself^  37  geographical  m.  distant,  can  be  seen  only  for  five 
minutes,  from  the  bridge  of  the  steamer. 

The  Red  Sea  extends  from  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Suez  to  the 
Strait  of  £ab-el-Mandeb,  about  1400  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  is 
about  200  miles.  At  Ras  Mohammed  it  is  split  by  the  peninsula  of 
Sinai  into  two  parts;  one,  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  about  150  m.  long, 
and  from  10  to  18  widej  and  the  other,  the  Gulf  of  Akabah,  about 
100  m.  long,  and  from -6  to  10  wide. 

Wherever  seen  from  the  sea,  the  shores  of  the  Red  Sea  present  an 
appearance  of  absolute  sterility.  A  broad  sandy  plain  slopes  inappreci- 
ably to  the  foot  of  the  mountains,  which  are  in  most  parts  a  considerable 
distance  inland.  The  ordinary  mail-steamer's  track,  however,  lies  down 
the  centre  of  the  sea,  and  little  more  than  the  summits  of  the  distant 
bare  and  arid  mountains  will  be  seen. 

The  only  port  on  the  E.  shore  between  Suez  and  the  division  of 
the  sea  is  Tor,  two  days'  journey  from  Sinai  The  Khedivieh  Company 
run  steamers,  touching  at  one  or  two  of  the  intermediate  ports  between 
Tor  and  El  Wedj.  Opposite  the  end  of  the  Sinai  peninsula  is'  Jebel 
ez-Zeit,  "the  mountain  of  oil,''  close  to  the  sea.  At  this  point  the 
Egyptian  Government  have  lately  expended  large  sums  in  searching 
for  the  petroleum  which  there  is  reason  to  believe  exists.  Up  to  the 
present,  although  a  certain  amount  of  oil  has  been  found,  it  has  not 
been  proved  to  exist  in  sufficiently  large  quantities  to  pay  for  the 
money  sunk.  If  leave  can  be  obtained  from  the  Public  Works  De- 
partment, a  visit  to  the  site  of  the  borings  might  be  made.  At  £21- 
G-irosheh,  a  headland,  terminating  the  bay  to  the  S.S.W.  of  it,  are 
some  sulphur-mines,  grottoes,  and  inscriptions  in  the  Sinaitic  character. 
About  27  m.  inland  are  the  old  porphyry  quarries  of  Jebel  ed-Dokhan, 
'^  mountain  of  smoke."  The  road  from  Gimsheh  past  Jebel  ed- 
Dokhan  may  be  followed  to  Eeneh  on  the  Nile.  The  distance  is 
about  140  miLea 

The  ruins  of  Myos  Hormos  are  on  the  coast  in  latitude  27*"  24'. 
The  town  is  small,  very  regularly  built,  surrounded  by  a  ditch, 
and  defended  by  round  towers  at  the  comers  and  the  gateways. 
The  port  mentioned  by  Strabo  b'es  to  the  northward,  and  is  nearly- 
filled  with  sand.  Below  the  hills,  to  the  eastward,  is  the  Fons  Tadmos, 
mentioned  by  Pliny.     Besides  the  ancient  roads  that  lead  from  Myos 


Mni  K0S8BIB  XZXT 

HoonnoB  to  the  westward  is  another  running  N.  and  S.,  a  short  distance 
from  the  coast^  leading  to  Ab6o  Dorrag  and  Suez  on  one  side,  and  to 
SoAkin  on  the  S. 

KosSEiR. — At  Old  Kouevr  are  the  small  town  and  port  of  Philot^ra, 
of  which  little  remains  hut  mounds  and  the  vestiges  of  houses,  some  of 
andeat,  others  of  Arah  date.  The  modem  town  of  Koeseir  stands 
(m  s  small  bay  or  cove,  4^  m.  to  the  southward.  The  population  is 
about  2000.  This  is  a  separate  gor^morehip.  It  was  formerly  a  plaee 
of  some  importance,  but  is  now  fedling  into  decay.  The  water-supply 
is  bad.  There  is  a  custom-house,  but  the  trade  is  very  limited,  consist- 
ing principally  of  dates  &om  Arabia. 

After  passing  Kosseir  are  the  ^  several  ports  '^  mentioned  by  Pliny, 
with  landmarks  to  direct  small  vessels  through  the  dangerous  coral- 
iee&,  whose  abrupt  diecontinuanoe  forms  their  mouth.  These 
corresponding  openings  are  singular,  and  are  due  to  the  inability  of 
the  coral  A^nimula  to  live  where  the  fresh  water  of  the  winter  torrents 
rons  into  the  sea,  which  is  the  case  where  these  ports  are  found. 
There  are  no  remains  fsi  towns  at  any  of  them,  except  at  Nechesia 
and  the  Leueas  Portui ;  the  former  now  called  Wadi  en-Nukkeuri,  the 
latter  known  by  the  name  of  Eah-Shuna,  or  ''the  magazine."  Nechesia 
has  the  ruins  of  a  temple^  and  a  citadel  of  hewn  stone ;  but  the  Leucos 
Portus  is  in  a  very  dilapidated  state  ;  and  the  materials  of  which  the 
houses  were  built^  like  those  of  Berenice,  are  merely  fragments  of 
madrepore  and  shap^ess  pieces  of  stone.  About  half-way  between 
them  is  another  small  port,  4  m.  to  the  W.  of  which  are  the  l6ad«inixies 
of  Qabel  er-BoBas ;  and  a  short  distance  to  the  northward,  in  Wadi 
Abu-Raikeb,  is  a  small  quarry  of  basinite,  worked  by  the  ancients. 
About  20  m.  inland  from  the  site  of  Nechesia  are  the  old  Necda 
qaarries  and  emerald  mines  at  Jebel  Zobarah. 

Behind  the  headland  of  Ras  Benas,  called  Has  el-Unf,  or  Cape  Nose, 
by  the  Arab  sailors,  opposite  Y^nbo  on  the  Arabian  coast^  there  is  a 
deep  gulf,  at  the  head  of  which  stood  the  old  town  of  Berenice.  This 
gnlf,  according  to  Strabo,  was  called  Sinus  Immundus.  The  long 
peninsula  or  chersonesus,  called  Lepte  Eztrema,  projecting  from  this 
golf,  is  mentioned  by  Diodorus,  who  says  its  neck  was  so  narrow  that 
boats  were  sometimes  carried  across  it  from  the  gulf  to  the  open  sea. 
From  the  end  of  the  cape  may  be  perceived  the  Peak  of  St.  John,  or 
the  Emerald  Isle,  Jeziret  Zibii^eh,  or  Semergid,  which  seems  to  be 
the'0<^utf&79,  or  serpentuie  island,  of  Diodorus.  The  inner  bay,  which 
oimstituted  the  ancient  port  of  Berenice,  is  now  nearly  filled  with  sand  ; 
and  at  low  tide  its  mouth  is  closed  by  a  bank,  which  is  then  left  entirely 
exposed.     The  tide  rises  and  falls  in  it  about  one  foot. 

The  town  of  Berenice  was  founded  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  and 
10  called  after  his  mother.  There  is  a  temple  at  the  end  of  a  street, 
towards  %h.e  centre  of  the  town,  built  of  hewn  stone,  and  consisting  of 


\ 


xxxvi  8UAKTN — JTDDAH  India 

three  inner  and  the  same  number  of  outer  chambers,  with  a  staircase 
leading  to  the  summit,  the  whole  ornamented  with  sculptures  and 
hieroglyphics  in  relief.  It  was  dedicated  to  Serapis;  and  in  the 
hieroglyphics  are  the  names  of  Tiberius  and  Trajan. 

Between  Bas  Benas  and  Bas  Elba  are  a  number  of  small  harbours 
which  are  much  used  by  Arab  traders  to  convey  provisions  to  the 
Bishareen  tribes,  and  to  bring  slaves  back  to  Tembo  and  Jiddah. 
Since  the  trade  with  the  Soudan  has  been  stopped  in  consequence  of 
the  rebellion,  a  good  deal  of  the  commerce  which  used  to  pass  through 
Suakin  now  goes  to  these  small  harbours,  the  custom  duties  being  thus 
lost  to  the  Egyptian  Qovemment  South  of  Bas  Elba  is  Bas  Boway, 
a  long,  low  promontory.  Here  is  an  Egyptian  station  dependent  upon 
Suakin.  At  Boway  are  some  very  extensive  salt-fields,  from  which  a 
considerable  amount  of  salt  is  exported  annually,  principally  to  India. 

Suakin  is  the  most  important  town  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Red  Sea. 
It  was  the  scene  of  the  two  English  expeditions  of  1884,  1885,  neither 
of  which  led  to  any  result  In  1896  the  2lBt  Bombay  InfiBmtry  held 
Suakin  for  the  Khedive  of  Egypt,  and  caused  a  division  of  Osman 
Digna's  forces,  thus  enabling  the  Elhedive's  troops,  under  Sir  Herbert 
Kitchener,  the  more  easily  to  reconquer  the  North  Soudan.  The  prin- 
cipal tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  Suakin  are  the  Hadendowa  and  Amarar. 

After  leaving  Suez  the  lifirlitliouBes  seen  are  Zafarana  and  Bas 
Gharib,  both  on  the  W.  coast  before  Tor  is  reached.  Then  follows  the 
light  on  Ashrafi,  just  inside  the  mouth  of  the  Qulf  of  Suez,  and  that 
on  Shadwar,  just  south  of  it.  The  light  on  The  Bf^oHhars  is  nearly  due 
E.  of  Kosseir.  The  Daedalus  Beef,  small  and  dangerous,  lies  in.  mid- 
channel  in  latitude  25"*, and  was  a  terror  to  navigators  before  the  light  was 
erected.     And  lastly,  the  light  on  Perim  Island  in  the  Bab-el-Mandeb. 

The  most  important  ports  of  Arabia  on  the  Bed  Sea  are  fenbo,  lat 
24"*  N.,  the  port  of  Medina,  130  m.  to  the  E  The  town  is  but- 
rounded  by  a  wall  12  ft  high  and  is  a  mean  place,  but  the  harbour 
is  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast 

Jiddah,  in  latitude  21^"*  N.,  is  an  important  place  ;  the  seaport  of 
Mecca,  which  is  60  m.  E.  The  population,  including  surroundii^ 
villages,  is  about  40,000.  English  and  other  steamers  call  here 
frequently.  The  anchorage  is  3^  m.  from  the  shore.  The  town  is 
square  in  shape,  enclosed  by  a  wall  with  towers  at  intervals,  and  on  the 
sea-face  two  forts.  There  is  a  good  street  parallel  to  the  sea.  The 
other  streets  are  irregular  and  not  so  clean.  The  town,  for  this 
part  of  the  world,  is  well  kept,  but  the  suburbs  are  very  poor.  The 
population  is  most  fanatical,  and  Europeans  landing  must  behave  in  al 
respects  cautiously.  Supplies  are  abundant,  but  it  is  the  custom  to 
ask  strangers  exorbitant  prices.  There  are  three  entrances  to  the  town 
on  the  sea  side,  but  the  central  one  at  the  jetty  is  the  only  one  in 


InfncL  HODBIDA  XXXYli 

oidinary  use.  The  gate  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town  is  seldom  opened, 
that  on  the  N.  is  free  to  all,  but  the  E.  or  Mecca  gate,  which  formerly 
was  strictly  reserved  for  Mohammedans,  should  be  approached  with 
caution,  though  Europeans  are  now  generally  permitted  to  use  it. 
The  only  sight  of  the  town  is  the  so-called  Tomb  of  Eve.  This  is  a 
small  mosque  in  the  centre  of  two  long  low  walls  140  ft.  in  length, 
which  are  supposed  to  enclose  the  grave  of  our  gigantic  ancestress. 
It  is  isegarded  with  considerable  veneration,  and  lies  north  of  the  town 
The  antiquity  of  the  tradition  is  unlmown.  Jiddah  was  bombarded 
hj  the  British  in  1858  in  retribution  for  a  massacre  of  the  consul  and 
other  British  subjects  by  the  population. 

HODEIDA,  lat.  14"*  40'  N.,  has  a  population  of  about  33,000.  The 
anchorage  here  also  is  about  3^  m.  from  the  shore.  European 
steamers  call  weekly  or  oftener.  Mocha,  which  this  place  has  sup- 
planted as  a  commercial  port,  is  100  m.  S.  Hodeida  has  well-built 
houses  and  an  amply -supplied  market.  It  looks  well  from  having 
mosques  with  fine  domes  and  minarets. 

The  Italians  and  French  have  settlements  on  the  African  shore  in 
the  S.  part  of  the  Red  Sea,  at  Asab  and  Obokh,  but  passenger 
steamers  to  India  do  not  approach  these  places. 

The  Island  of  Perim  occupies  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Strait  of 
Bab-el-Mandeb  ("the  gate  of  tears").  It  is  distant  1|^  m.  from  the  Arabian 
coast,  and  9  to  10  m.  from  the  African.  The  average  width  is  1^  m., 
the  greatest  length  3^  m.  Captain  F.  M.  Hunter  has  given  the  most 
complete  description  of  the  island  in  his  StaUtticai  Account  of  Aden. 

Perim  is  called  by  the  author  of  The  Periplus  the  island  of  Diodorus, 
and  is  known  amongst  the  Arabs  as  Mayun.  The  formation  is  purely 
volcanic  and  consists  of  long  low  hills  surrounding  a  capacious  harbour 
about  l-^-  m.  long,  ^  m.  in  breadth,  with  a  depth  of  from  4  to  6 
&thom8  in  the  best  anchorages.  The  highest  point  of  the  island  is 
S45  ft  above  sea-level.  All  endeavours  to  find  water  have  failed,  and 
but  little  is  procurable  from  the  mainland  near.  There  are  water 
tanks  that  used  to  be  supplied  from  Aden,  but  a  condensing  apparatus 
is  found  the  most  convenient  means  of  supply.  The  British  are  the 
only  nation  who  have  ever  permanently  occupied  Perim.  Albuquerque 
landed  upon  it  in  1613,  and  erected  a  high  cross  on  an  eminence,  and 
called  it  the  island  of  Vera  Cruz,  by  which  name  it  is  shown  on  old 
Admiralty  charts.  Afterwards  it  was  occupied  by  pirates  who  in  vain 
dug  for  water.  In  1799  the  East  India  Company  took  possession  of  it, 
and  sent  a  force  from  Bombay  to  hold  it,  to  prevent  the  French  then  in 
Egypt  from  passing  on  to  India,  where  it  was  feared  they  would  effect  a 
jnnction  with  Tipu-  Sahib.  The  lighthouse  on  the  highest  point  was 
completedin  1 86 1,  andsince  then  two  others  have  been  built  on  the  shore. 
There  is  always  a  guard  from  the  garrison  at  Aden.  They  occupy 
a  small  block  house  for  the  protection  of  the  lighthouse  and  coaling- 


xxxTiii  ▲DIN  India 

statioiu.  Steamers  lunullj  paas  to  the  £.  of  the  island  near  the 
€k>vemment  boat  harbour.  The  western  side  of  the  large  inner 
harbour  has  been  assigned  to  the  Perim  Ck>al  Companj,  who  have  ex- 
pended £120,000  in  making  the  place  one  of  the  most  perfect  ooaling 
and  salvage  stations  in  the  East  The  salvage  steamers  are  powerful, 
and  always  ready  to  render  assistance  to  vessels  in  distress.  The 
"  City  *'  line  of  steamers  coal  here. 

Throughout  the  Red  Sea  enormous  coral  reefs  run  along  the 'coasts 
in  broken  lines  parallel  to  the  shores,  but  not  connected  with  them. 
They  usually  rise  out  of  deep  water  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface. 
A  navigable  channel  from  2  to  3  m.  wide  extends  between  them  and 
the  E.  coast,  and  a  narrower  one  on  the  W.  coast  The  whole  sea  is  in 
course  of  upheaval  The  former  seaport  of  Adulis,  in  Annesley  Bay,  near 
Massowa,  is  now  4  m.  inland. 

The  tides  are  very  uncertain.  At  Suez,  where  they  are  most  regular, 
they  rise  from  7  ft.  at  spring  to  4  ft.  at  neap  tides. 

During  the  hottest  months,  July  to  September,  the  prevalence  of 
northerly  winds  drives  the  water  out  of  the  Red  Sea.  The  S. W. 
monsoon  is  then  blowing  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  the  general  level 
of  the  Red  Sea  is  from  2  to  3  ft.  lower  than  during  the  cooler  months,- 
when  the  N.E.  monsoon  forces  water  into  the  Qulf  of  Aden  and  thence 
through  the  Strait  of  Bab-el-Mandeb. 

Aden  was  known  to  the  Romans,  and  was  for  many  years  held 
by  the  Turks,  who  captured  the  port  from  the  Arabs.  Marco  Polo, 
the  Venetian,  visited  Aden  on  his  return  from  his  travels  in  China. 
It  was  then,  in  the  14th  cent,  held  by  a  governor  appointed  by  the 
"  Soldan.''  Polo  mentions  the  port  as  having  been  "  a  seat  of  direct 
trade  with  China  in  the  early  centuries  of  Islam."  An  Ai'ab  reports 
it  at  that  period  as  "  enclosed  by  mountains,  and  you  can  enter  by 
one  side  only.''  On  the  18th  February  1513  Albuquerque  sailed 
from  India  with  20  ships  for  the  conquest  of  Aden.  In  the  assault  on 
the  fortress  their  scaling-ladders  broke,  and  although  they  succeeded 
in  taking  "  a  bulwark  which  guarded  the  port  with  39  great  pieces  of 
cannon,''  they  were  obliged  to  withdraw  after  a  four  days'  siege.  On 
the  drd  of  August  1639  Soliman  "Basha,"  the  admiral-in-chief  of  a 
Turkish  armada  of  74  ships  and  gunboats,  cast  anchor  in  the  port. 
His  mission  was  against  the  Portuguese  in  India  A  Venetian  captive 
serving  as  a  slave  on  a  Turkish  galley  writes  in  his  Memoirs :  *^  'Tis 
very  strong,  and  stands  by  the  seaside,  surrounded  with  exceeding 
high  mountains,  on  the  top  of  which  are  little  castles  or  forts" 
(evidently  watch-towers,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the 
most  inaccessible  points  on  the  rim  of  the  Crater).  '*  'Tis  encompassed 
also  with  ravelins  on  every  side,  excepting  a  little  opening,  about  300 
paces  wide  "  (now  made  into  the  '*  Main  Pass  "),  <<  for  a  road  into  the 


Mred.  adbk  xxxix 

coantiy  aad  to  the  ahore,  with  gates,  towers,  and  good  wallai  Besides 
all  this  there  is  a  shoal  before  the  city,  on  which  is  built  a  fort ;  and 
at  the  foot  of  it  a  tower  for  the  defence  of  the  port,  which  lies  to  the 
south,  and  has  two  fathom  of  water.  To  the  north  there  is  a  large 
port^  with  good  anchorage,  covered  from  all  winds"  (this  is  the 
modem  port). 

On  this'  occasion  the  admiral  was  offended  at  the  reception  he  met 
with  from  the  Turkish  governor  of  Aden,  and  landed  a  force  of 
Janissaries,  who  occupied  all  the  forts,  and  brought  the  governor  to 
paj  a  visit  to  the  admiral  The  latter  gave  a  most  sumptuous 
entertainment  to  his  guest ;  but  when  about  to  withdraw  made  a 
signal  to  his  crew,  on  which  the  governor  was  seized,  and  he  and  his 
staff  hung  out  on  the  yard-arms  of  the  flag-ship. 

Mareo  Polo  mentions :  ''  And  it  is  a  fieust  that  when  the  Soldan  of 
Eabylon  went  against  the  city  of  Acre  "  (in  A.D.  1291)  *'this  Soldan  of 
Aden  sent  to  his  assistance  30,000  horsemen  and  40,000  camels,  to 
the  great  help  of  the  Saracens  and  the  grievous  injury  of  the  Christians. 
He  did  this  a  great  deal  more  for  the  hate  he  bears  the  Christians 
than  for  any  love  he  bears  the  Soldan."  This  was  the  Mameluke 
Saltan  Malik  Ashraf  Khalil 

Aden  was  taken  from  the  Arabs  by  the  Britiah  on  the  16th 
oi  January  1839  (see  the  Aden  Hamdbookf  by  Captain  F.  M.  Hunter). 
It  was  attacked  by  the  Abdalis  and  Fadthelis  on  the  11th  of  November 
in  that  year,  but  they  were  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  200  killed  and 
wounded.  The  united  Arab  tribes  made  a  second  attack  on  the  22nd 
of  May  1840,  but  fEiiled  after  losing  many  men.  On  the  5th  of  July 
1840  a  third  attack  took  place,  but  the  assailants,  Abdalis  and  Fad- 
thelis, were  driven  back  and  lost  300  men.  In  January  1846  Saiyad 
Ismail,  after  preaching  a  jihad,  or  religious  war,  in  Mecca,  attacked  this 
place,  and  was  easily  repulsed.  A  series  of  murders  then  commenced. 
On  die  29th  of  May  1850  a  seaman  and  a  boy  of  H.  E.  L  C.  steam- 
frigate  AwMcmd  were  killed  while,  picking  up  shells  on  the  N.  shore 
of  the  harbour.  On  the  28th  of  February  1851  Captain  Milne,  com- 
missariat officer,  and  a  party  of  officers^  went  to  Wahat,  in  the  Lahej 
territory.  At  midnight  a  fanatic  mortally  wounded  Captain  Milne, 
who  died  next  day,  severely  wounded  lieutenant  MTherson,  of  the 
78th  Highlanders,  slightly  wounded  Mr.  Saulez,  and  got  dear  away. 
On  the  27th  March  following,  another  fanatic  attacked  and  severely 
wounded  Lieutenant  Delisser  of  the  78  th  Highlanders,  but  was  killed 
by  that  officer  with  his  own  weapon.  On  the  12th  of  July  in  the  same 
year,  the  mate  and  one  sailor  of  the  ship  Sons  of  Commerce^  wrecked 
near  Ghubet  Sailan,  were  murdered.  In  1858,  'Ali  bin  Muhsin, 
Saltan  of  the  Abdalis,  gave  so  much  trouble  that  Brigadier  Coghlan, 
Commandant  at  Aden,  was  compelled  to  march  against  him,  when  the 
Axabs  weire  routed  with  a  loss  of  from  30  to  40  men,  and  with  no 


tl  AB8N  India 

casualties  on  our  aide.  In  December  1866,  the  Sultan  of  the  Fadtheli 
tribe,  which  has  a  seaboard  of  100  m.,  extending  from  the  boundary 
of  the  Abdalis,  attempted  to  blockade  Aden  on  the  land  side ;  but 
was  utterly  routed  by  Lieut.-Col.  Woolcombe,  C.B.,  at  Bir  Said,  15 
m.  from  the  Barrier  Qate.  A  force  under  Brigadier-General  Baines, 
C.B.,  then  marched  through  the  Abgar  districts,  which  are  the  low- 
lands of  this  tribe,  dnd  destroyed  several  fortified  villages.  Subse- 
quently, in  January  1866,  an  expedition  went  from  Aden  by  sea  to 
Shugrah,  the  chief  port  of  the  Fadthelis,  65  m.  from  Aden,  and  de- 
stroyed the  forts  there.  Since  1867  this  tribe,  which  numbers  6700 
fighting  men,  have  adhered  to  their  engagements.  The  Sultan  of  the 
Abdalis,  who  inhabit  a  district  33  m.  long  and  8  broad  to  the  N.N.W. 
of  Aden,  and  number  about  8000  souls,  was  present  in  Bombay  during 
the  Duke  of  Edinburgh's  visit  in  February  1870,  and  is  friendly.  His 
territory  is  called  La  Hej,  and  the  capital  is  Al-Hautah,  21  m.  from  the 
Barrier  Qate  (see  expeditions,  p.  xliii.) 

Aden  is  hot,  but  healthy.  Snakes  and  scorpions  are  rather 
numerous.  The  town  is  full  of  interest  to  the  anthropologist,  and  a 
visit  to  the  bazaar  in  the  afternoon  is  well  worth  the  trouble.  Wild 
Arabs  from  the  interior  of  Arabian  Yemen,  Turks,  Egyptians,  hideous 
Swahelis  from  the  coast  of  East  Africa,  Somalis  from  the  untamed 
shock-headed  Bedouin  to  the  more  civilised  officer's  servant,  Jews  of 
various  sects,  inhabitants  .of  India,  Parsis,  British  soldiers,  Bombay 
Marathas,  and  lastly  the  Jack-tar,  are  seen  together  in  a  motley 
crowd. 

The  Crater  used  in  former  days  to  be  the  fortress  of  Aden.  Now 
modem  science  has  converted  "  Steamer  Point "  into  a  seemingly  im- 
pregnable position ;  the  peninsula  which  the  '*  Point  *'  forms  to  the 
whole  Crater  being  cut  off  by  a  fortified  line  which  runs  fix)m 
N.  to  S.  just  to  the  eastward  of  the  coal  wharfs.  The  harbour 
mouth  is  swept  by  a  powerful  armament  of  10"  and  6^^  guns  mounted 
on  *'  disappearing "  hydraulic  carriages  in  Forts  Tarshine  and  Morbut 
Batteries  sweep  the  inner  harbour  and  the  approach  by  land  from 
the  Main  Pass  and  village  of  Ma'ala.  The  accuracy  of  the  artillery 
fire  is  ensured  by  "position  finders"  on  the  spurs  of  the  mountain 
Shumshum.  The  whole  position  bristles  with  quick-firing  ordnance 
of  the  latest  patterns.  The  only  £etult  that  critics  have  found  is 
that  too  much  has  been  spent  on  ordnance  of  unnecessarily  large 
calibre. 

Inside  the  Light  Ship  the  water  shallows  to  4  fathoms,  and  a  lai^ 
steamer  stirs  up  the  mud  with  the  keeL  As  soon  as  the  vessel  stops, 
scores  of  little  boats  with  one  or  two  Somali  boys  in  each  paddle  off 
and  surround  the  steamer,  shouting  "Overboard,  overboard,"  and 
"  Have  a  dive,  have  a  dive,"  also  "  Good  boy,  good  boy,*'  all  together, 
with  a  very  strong  accent  on  the  first  syllable.     The  cadence  is  not 


Introd.  APBN  xli 

anpleasing.  If  a  small  coin  is  flung  to  them  they  all  spring  into  the 
water,  and  nothing  is  seen  but  scores  of  heels  disappearing  under  the 
Boiface  as  they  dive  for  the  money.  Owing  to  a  number  of  fatalities, 
from  sharks,  diving  is  prohibited  in  the  S.W.  monsoon  months.  Other 
fish  are  almost  as  ravenous.  Tn  1877  a  rock  cod  between  6  and  6  ft. 
long  seized  a  man  who  was  diving  and  tore  off  the  flesh  of  his  thigh. 
The  man's  brother  went  down  with  a  knife  and  killed  the  cod,  which 
was  brought  ashore  and  photographed  at  Aden,  as  was  the  woimded 
man. 

As  soon  as  the  captain  has  fixed  the  hour  at  which  he  will  leave 
the  port,  a  notice  is  posted,  and  then  passengers  generally  start  for  the 
shore  to  escape  the  dust  and  heat  during  coaling.  All  the  ports  are 
closed,  and  the  heat  and  closeness  of  the  cabins  will  be  found  quite  in- 
supportable. 

No  boat  can  ply  for  hire  in  Aden  Harbour  without  a  licence 
from  the  Conservator  of  the  Port^  and  the  number  of  the  licence  must 
be  displayed  on  the  bow  and  stem,  and  also  by  each  of  the  crew. 
When  asking  payment  the  crew  must  exhibit  the  tables  of  fares  and 
rules,  and  any  one  asking  prepayment  is  liable  to  fine  or  imprison- 
ment In  case  of  dispute,  recourse  must  be  had' to  the  nearest  European 
police  officer.  By  specisd  agreement  a  first-class  boat  may  be  engaged 
for  4  fares,  and  a  second-class  boat  for  3  falres.  Every  boat  must  have 
a  lantern  at  night  A  boat  inspector  attends  at  the  Gun  Wharf  from  6 
Ajc  to  1 1  P.M.  to  caU  boats,  suppress  irregularities,  and  give  informa- 
tion to  {)a8senger&  After  sunset  passengers  can  be  landed  only  at  the 
Gun  Wharfc 

It  takes  from  twelve  to  twenty  minutes  to  land  at  the  Post  Office 
Pier,  which  is  broad  and  sheltered.  The  band  occasionally  plays 
there.  To  the  left,  after  a  walk  or  drive  of  a  mile,  one  arrives  at 
the  hotels.  There  is  also  a  lai^e  shop  for  wares  of  all  kinds  kept 
by  a  ParsL 

Land  Conveyances 

Every  conveyance  must  have  the  number  of  its  licence  and  the 
number  of  persons  it  can  carry  painted  on  it  A  table  of  fares  must 
be  fixed  on  some  conspicuous  part  of  the  conveyance,  and  the  driver 
must  wear  a  badge  with  the  number  of  his  licence,  and  must  not 
demand  prepayment  of  his  fare.  From  Isthmus  to  the  Point  the  fare 
is  the  same  as  friom  Town  to  Point.  The  Point  signifies  any  inhabited 
part  of  Steamer  Ptmt,  the  name  given  to  the  part  of  the  peninsula  off 
which  the  steamers  lie. 

Condensers 

At  a  short  distance  N.  of  the  hotels  is  a  condenser  belonging  to  a 
privftte  proprietor.      There  are  three  such  condensers  belonging  to 


xlii  AQBN  India 

Qovemmeiit^  and  seyeral  the  property  of  private  companies,  and  by 
these  and  an  aqueduct  from  Sheikh  Othman,  7  m.  beyond  the  Barrier 
Qate,  Aden  is  supplied  with  water.  Crondensed  water  costs  from  about 
2  rs.  per  100  gallons. 

The  Tanks 

Besides  these  there  are  tanks,  which  are  worth  a  visit  The 
distance  to  them  from  the  pier  is  about  6  m.  Altogether  there 
are  about  Mty  tanks  in  Aden,  which  if  entirely  cleared  out, 
would  have  an  aggregate  capacity  of  nearly  30,000,000  imperial 
gallons.  It  is  supposed  that  they  were  commenced  about  the  second 
Persian  invasion  of  Yaman  in  600  a.d.  Mr.  Salt,  who  saw  them 
in  1809,  says,  ''The  most  remarkable  of  these  reservoirs  consists 
of  a  line  of  cisterns  situated  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  three  oi 
which  are  fuUy  80  ft.  wide  and  proportionally  deep,  all  excavated 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  lined  with  a  thick  coat  of  fine  stucco.  A 
broad  aqueduct  may  still  be  traced  which  formerly  conducted  the 
water  to  these  cisterns  from  a  deep  ravine  in  the  mountain  above; 
higher  up  is  another  still  entire,  which  at  the  time  we  visited  it  was 
partly  filled  with  water."  In  1856  the  restoration  of  these  magnifi- 
cent works  was  undertaken  (eee  the  Aden  Hcmdbocky  by  Captain  F.  M. 
Hunter).  And  thirteen  have  been  completed,  capable  of  holding 
8,000,000  gallons  of  water.  The  range  of  hills  which  was  the  crater 
of  Aden  is  nearly  circular.  On  the  W.  side  the  hills  are  precipitous, 
and  the  rain  that  descends  from  them  rushes  speedily  to  the  sea.  On 
the  E.  side  the  descent  is  broken  by  a  tableland  winding  between  the 
summit  and  the  sea,  which  occupies  a  quarter  of  the  entire  snperficies 
of  Aden.  The  ravines  which  intersect  this  plateau  converge  into  one 
valley,  and  a  very  moderate  fall  of  rain  sufi&ces  to  send  a  considerable 
torrent  down  it.  This  water  is  partly  retained  in  the  tanks  which  were 
made  to  receive  it,  and  which  are  so  constructed  that  the  overflow  of 
the  upper  tank  falls  into  a  lower,  and  so  on  in  succession.  As  the  ann  ual 
rainfall  at  Aden  did  not  exceed  6  or  7  in.,  Malik  al  Mansur,  King  of 
Yaman,  at  the  close  of  the  16th  century  built  an  aqueduct  to  bring  the 
water  of  the  Bir  Hamid  into  Aden  (see  Playfair's  History  of  Yama/rC), 

The  Salt  Pans  on  the  way  to  Sheikh  Othman  are  curious.  The  sea- 
water  is  pumped  into  shallow  pans  cut  out  of  the  earth,  and  allowed 
to  evaporate,  and  the  salt  which  remains  is  collected.  It  belongs 
to  an  Italian  company,  who  pay  royalty  on  every  ton  of  salt  procured. 
The  Keith-Falconer  Medical  Mission  at  Sheikh  Othman,  as  well  as 
Steamer  Point,  was  established  by  the  Hon.  Ion  Keith  -  Falconer, 
Arabian  Professor,  Cambridge,  who  died  there.  His  tomb,  erected  by 
the  Dowager  Countess  of  Kintore,  of  fine  Carrara  marble,  is  in  the 
military  cemetery  of  Aden.  The  Mission,  under  the  care  of  the 
doctors  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  is  most  popular.     At  Steamer 


Introd,  ADEK  xliii 

Point  there  are  three  churches  for  the  troops,  Anglican,  Scottish,  and 
Roman.     In  the  Crater  there  are  two  churches. 

Expeditions 

There  is  no  risk  attending  an  expedition  at  any  time  in  the  day 
beyond  the  Barrier  Gate  up  to  Sheikh  Othman,  distant  about  5  m. 
Parties  of  officers  now  go  shooting  without  being  troubled  in  the 
Abdali  country,  within  a  radius  of  20  m. 

An  expedition  should  be  made,  if  a  few  days'  stay  at  Aden  is 
possible,  to  Al-Hautah.  There  is  a  Dak  Bungalow  provided  by  the 
Saltan  of  La  Hej,  with  bed -cots  and  crockery,  etc.,  and  cooking 
utensils.  Food  should  be  taken  from  Aden,  where  also  camels  for 
riding  can  be  procured  by  application  to  the  Commissariat  officer. 
The  Political  Resident  is  always  pleased  to  give  every  attention  to  any 
application  for  permission.  The  Sultan  of  Al-HautaJi  is  most  generous 
in  his  provision  for  strangers.     It  is  the  custom  to  call  upon  him. 

After  leaving  Aden  the  only  land  usually  approached  by  steamers 
bound  for  India  is  the  Island  of  Soootra,  which  is  about  150  m. 
E.  of  Cape  Guardafui,  the  E.  point  of  the  African  continent  The 
island  is  71  m.  long,  and  22  broad.  Most  of  the  surface  is  a  tableland 
about  800  ft  above  sea-leveL  The  capital  is  Tamarida  or  Hadibu,  on 
the  N.  coast.  The  population  is  only  4000,  or  4  to  the  square  mile. 
It  is  politically  a  British  possession  subordinate  to  Aden,  but  adminis- 
tered in  its  internal  affairs  by  its  own  chiefs. 


zliv 


THB  FEOPLB  OF  INDIA — ^MOHAMMEDANS 


India 


THE  PEOPLE   OF   INDIA 

The  census  of  1891  gave  the  population  of  India  and  Burma   as 
follows : — 


British 
Feudatory    . 
Portuguese  . 
French         4 

Area  in 
Square  Miles. 

Population. 

Persons  per 
Square  Ifile. 

961,994 

595,313 

1,086 

178 

221,113,264 

66,050,479 

481,467 

282,928 

229 

110 
\  chiefly  in 
J     towns 

1,558,571 

287,928,133 

184 

Of  this  total  of  288,000,000  about  160,000  aie  British  bom,  of 
whom  one  half  are  soldiers.     The  army  of  British  India  comprises  : — 

British  Troops 74,000 

Native 145,000 


219,000 


In  addition  there  are  Native  Reserves,  16,000 ;  Imperial  Service 
Troops  furnished  by  Native  States,  19,000  ;  and  European  or  Eurasian 
Volunteers,  27,000,  making  altogether  61,000  additional  men  trained 
by  British  officers.  The  Native  States  have  semi -trained  troops 
which  are  not  included  in  this  list. 

There  are  four  races  in  India — ^the  aborigines,  or  non-Aryans  ;  the 
pure  Aryans,  or  twice -bom  castes ;  the  Mohammedans  ;  and  the 
Hindus,  a  blend  of  Aryans  and  non- Aryans,  who  form  the  bulk  of 
the  population. 

The  census  of  1891  gave,  in  round  numbers,  the  following  religious 
statistics : — 


Brahmanic  . 

207,700,000 

Christian 

• 

.     2,300,000 

Animist  (non- Aryan)  . 

9,300,000 

Sikh        . 

a 

.     1,900,000 

Mohammedan 

57,300,000 

Jain 

• 

.     1,400,000 

Buddhist     . 

7,100,000 

Zoroastrian      • 

• 

90,000 

THE  MOHAMMEDZNS. 

Mohammed  (strictly  Muhammad,  'Hhe  praised '')  was  born  at 
Mecca  in  570  a.d.,  his  father  being  a  poor  merchant  who  died  soon 
after  the  birth  of  his  son.  When  twenty-five  years  old  he  became 
manager  or  agent  to  a  rich  widow  named  Ehadija,  who,  although 
fifteen  years  his  senior,  offered  him  marriage.  By  her  he  had  two  sons 
who  died  young,  and  four  daughters,  of  whom  the  best  known  is 
Fatima.     At  the  age  of  forty  he  received  the  first  divine  commnnica- 


Ifiitrod. 


THE  MOHAMMEDANS 


xlv 


tion  in  the  solitude  of  the  mountain  Hira,  near  Mecca.  Tlie  angel 
Qabriel  appeared,  and  commanded  him  to  preach  the  new  religion. 
The  Meccans  persecuted  him;  his  wife  and  uncle  died ;  and  he  became 
poYBily  -  stricken.  In  Jime  622  he  fled  to  Medina,  where  he  was 
accepted  as  a  prophet.  He  made  war  upon  the  Meccans,  and  finally 
succeeded  in  capturing  Mecca,  where  he  was  then  recognised  as  chief 
and  prophet  He  died  in  the  arms  of  his  favourite  wife  Ayesha,  on 
tbe  8th  June  632. 

The  chief  tenet  of  the  Mohammedan  religion  is  Islam,  which  means 
resignation,  submission  to  the  will  of  Gk>d.  In  its  dogmatical  form  it 
is  Imam  (faith),  in  its  practical  Din  (religion).  The  fundamental 
principle  is,  "  There  is  no  God  but  God  ;  and  Mohammed  is  God's 
prophet"  There  are  four  great  duties.  1.  Daily  prayers.  These  should 
take  place  five  tinies  a  day — at  sunset,  nightfall,  daybreak,  noon,  and 
afternoon.  2.  The  giving  of  alms.  3.  The  fast  of  Ramazan.  4.  A 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  In  the  Koran  (much  of  which  was  dictated  by 
Mohammed),  a  holy  war  or  Jihad  is  enjoined  as  a  religious  duty. 
The  Mohammedans  believe  in  resurrection,  heaven,  and  hell.  In 
heaven  are  all  manner  of  sensuous  delights.  In  hell  all  who  deny 
the  unity  of  God  will  be  tortured  eternally.  There  is  a  separate 
heaven  for  women,  but  most  of  them  will  find  their  way  to  hell. 
Mohammed  enjoined  care  in  ablution  of  the  hands,  mouth,  and  nose, 
before  eating  or  praying.  The  Koran  forbids  the  drinking  of  wine, 
or  the  eating  of  the  flesh  of  swine.  Usury,  and  games  of  chance  are 
prohibited,  and  the  laws  against  idolatry  are  very  stringent.  Every 
man  may  have  four  wives,  and  some  concubine  slaves,  but  he  must 
not  look  upon  the  f&ce  of  any  other  woman  except  a  near  relative. 
Hope  and  fear,  reward  and  punishment^  with  a  belief  in  predestina- 
tion, form  the  system  of  faith.  It  is  contrary  to  the  religion  of 
Mohammed  to  make  any  figure  or  representation  of  anything  living. 
There  are  two  main  Mohammedan  sects.  According  to  the  Sunnis  the 
first  four  caliphs  (representatives)  after  Mohammed  are  Abubekr, 
Omar,  Othman,  and  AJi  in  that  order.  The  Shias  consider  that  Ali 
was  the  first,  excluding  the  other  three. 

Ercts.  — The  Mohammedan  era  of  the  Hijrah  takes  its  name  from 
the  **  departure  '*  of  Mohammed  from  Mecca  to  Medina  on  Friday  the 
16th  of  July  622  A.D.  This  date  was  ordered  by  the  Khalifah  Umar 
to  be  used  as  their  era  by  Mohammedans.  Their  year  consists  of 
twelve  lunar  months,  as  follows  : — 


Maharram 

30  days. 

Rajab     . 
Sh'aban. 

30  days. 

8a&r      . 

.        29    „ 

.        29    „ 

Babi  nl  avval 

.        .        30    „ 

30    „ 

Sabins-sani   . 

29    „ 

Shawwal 

29 

Jmnada  '1  avval 

30    „ 

Zik'adah 

30 

Jmada  's-sani 

.        29    „ 

Zi  hijjah 

29 

=  354 

daya 

Xlvi  MOHAMMEDAN  FESTIVALS  IfMi 

Their  year,  therefore,  is  1 1  days  short  of  the  solar  year,  and  iheir 
New  Year's  Day  is  every  year  1 1  days  earlier  than  in  the  preceding  year. 
In  every  30  years  the  month  Zi  hijjah  is  made  to  consist  1 1  times  of 
30  days  instead  of  29,  which  accounts  for  the  9  honrs  in  the  lunar 
year,  which  =  364  days,  9  hours.  To  bring  the  Hijrah  year  into  ac- 
cordance with  the  Christian  year,  express  the  former  in  years  and 
decimals  of  a  year,  and  multiply  by  •970225,  add  621-64,  and  the 
total  will  correspond  exactly  to  the  Christian  year.  Or  to  effect  the 
same  correspondence  roughly,  deduct  3  per  cent  from  the  Hijrah  year, 
add  621*54,  and  the  result  will  be  the  period  of  the  Christian  year 
when  the  Mohammedan  year  begins.  All  trouble,  however,  of  com- 
parison is  saved  by  Dr.  Ferdinand  Wtistenfeld's  Comparative  Tables, 
Leipzig,  1854. 

The  Tarikh  Ilahiy  or  Era  of  Akbar,  and  the  FasU  or  Harvest  Era 

These  eras  begin  from  the  commencement  of  Akbar's  reign  on  Friday 
the  5th  of  Babi  us-sani,  963  a.h.«  19th  of  February  1556.  To  make 
them  correspond  with  the  Christian,  693  must  be  added  to  the  former. 

Mohammedan  Festivals 

Bakari  ^Id,  held  on  the  10th  of  Zi  hijjah  in  memory  of  Abraham's 
offering  of  Ishmael,  which  is  the  version  of  the  Koran.  Camels, 
cows,  sheep,  goats,  kids,  or  lambs  are  sacrificed. 

Muharramy  a  fast  in  remembrance  of  the  death  of  Hasan  and 
Husain,  the  sons  of  'Ali  by  Fatimah  the  daughter  of  Mohammed. 
Hasan  was  poisoned  by  Yezid  in  49  a.h.,  and  Husain  was  murdered  at 
Karbala  on  the  10th  of  Muharram,  61  A.H.a9th  October  680  a.d. 
The  fast  begins  on  the  Ist  of  Muharram  and  lasts  10  days.  Moslems 
of  the  Shi'ah  persuasion  assemble  in  the  T'aziyah  Khana,  house  of 
mourning.  On  the  night  of  the  7th  an  image  of  Burak,  the  animal 
(vehicle)  on  which  Mohanmied  ascended  to  heaven,  is  carried  in  proces- 
sion, and  on  the  10th  a  Tabut  or  bier.  The  Tabuts  are  thrown  into 
the  sea,  or  other  water,  and  in  the  absence  of  water  are  buried  in  t^e 
earth.  The  mourners  move  in  a  circle,  beating  their  breasts  with  cries 
of  "  Ai  !  Hasan.  Ai !  Husain."  At  this  time  the  fanatical  spirit  is 
at  its  height,  and  serious  disturbances  often  take  place  (see  Hobson 
Jobson  in  Yule's  Glossary  of  Anglo-Inddem  Terms), 

AJMri  GhahoT  SharnbaJi,  held  on  the  last  Wednesday  of  Safar,  when 
Mohammed  recovered  a  little  in  his  last  iUness  and  bathed  for  the  last 
time.  It  is  proper  to  write  out  seven  blessings,  wash  off  the  ink  and 
drink  it,  as  also  to  bathe  and  repeat  prayers. 

BaH  Wafat,  held  on  the  13th  of  Rabi  ul  awal  in  memory  of  Mo- 
hammed's death,  11  a.h. 

Pir-i'DastgWy  held  on  the  10th  of  Rabi  us-sani  in  honour  of 
Saiyad  'Abdul  Kadir  Gilani,  called  Pir  Piran  or  Saint  of  Saints,,  who 


Mroi.  MOSAHHISDAN   DATB6  xlvix 

taught  and  died  at  Baghdad.  During  epidemics  a  green  flag  is  carried 
in  his  name. 

Ghiraghan-i-Zlndah  Shah  Madar^  held  on  the  17th  of  Jumada  1 
awal  in  honour  of  a  saint  who  lived  at  Makkhanpur,  and  who  is 
thought  to  be  still  alive,  whence  he  is  called  Zindah,  "  living/' 

UrS'i-Kadir  WaU^  held  on  the  11th  of  Jumada's-sani,  in  honour  of 
Khwajah  Mu'in-tid-din  Chisti,  who  was  buried  at  Ajmere  in  628  A.H. 

MvTaj-i-Mvhammad,  held  on  the  25th  of  Kajab,  when  the  Prophet 
ascended  to  heaven. 

Shab'i-harat,  night  of  record,  held  on  the  16th  of  Sh'aban, 
when  they  say  men's  actions  for  next  year  are  recorded.  The 
Koran  ought  to  be  read  all  night,  and  the  next  day  a  fast  should 
be  observed. 

Bamcuoanj  the  month-long  &st  of  the  Mohammedans.  The  night 
of  the  27th  is  called  Lailatu  '1-Kadr,  "  night  of  power,"  because  the 
Koran  came  down  from  heaven,  on  that  night 

*Idu  'l-Jitr,  the  festival  when  the  fast  of  the  Eamazan  is  broken. 
The  evening  is  spent  in  rejoicing  and  in  exhibitions  of  the  Nautch  girls. 

Ghn/ra^han-i^Bwndah  Na/waz,  held  on  the  16th  of  Zik'adah  in 
honour  of  a  saint  of  the  Chisti  family,  who  is  buried  at  Kalbarga  and 
is  also  called  Gisu  Daraz,  ^'  long  ringlets." 

Soke  Mohammbdan  Dates  affecting  India 

A.D. 

Birth  of  Mohammed 570 

His  departure  from  Mecca  to  Medina.     The  hijrah  era  .        ...  622 

His  death 632 

Arab  invasions  of  Sind 647-828 

Mahmud  of  Ghazni  defeats  the  Rajputs  at  Peshawar  .  .  .  1001 
Mahmud  captures  Somnath  in  Guzerat,  and  carries  off  the  temple 

gates  to  Ghazni 1024 

The  Afghans  of  Ghor  capture  Ghazni 1162 

Mohammed  of  Ghor  captures  Delhi 1193 

Kutb-ud-din    (originally  a  slave)  proclaims  himself  sovereign  of 

India  at  Delhi 1206 

Altamsh  extends  the  empire  of  the  slave  dynasty  .  .  .  1229 
Ala-nd-din  conquers  Southern  India ;  defeats  several  Mogul  in- 

▼asions  from  Central  Asia 1295-1315 

Timnr,  or  Tamerlane,  sacks  Delhi 1398 

Babar  the  Mogul,  sixth  in  descent  from  Timur,  defeats  the  Afghan 

Sultans  of  Delhi,  at  the  battle  of  Panipat 1624 

Babar  defeats  the*  Rajputs  at  Fatehpur  Sikri  near  Agra          .        .  1627 

Akbar  defeats  the  Afghans  at  Panipat 1666 

Akbar  conquers   the  Rajputs,   annexes   Bengal,   Guzerat,    Sind, 

Cashmere,  and  Kandahar 1661-94 

Death  of  Akbar  at  Agra 1605 

Commencement  of  the  struggle  between  the  Mogul  Emperor  and 

theMarathas 1688 

Anrongzeb  captures  Sambhaji,  the  son  of  the  Maratha  chief  Sivaji, 

md  puts  him  to  death 1688 


Zlyiii                          80VBREION8  WHO  REIGNED  AT  DELHI  India 

▲.D. 

Death  of  Aurongzeb ;  deolme  of  the  Mogal  power ....  1707 

Bajputana  lost  to  the  Moenl 1715 

Defeat  and  persecution  of  the  Sikhs,  the  Mogul  puts  their  leader 

Banda  to  death  with  cruel  tortures 1716 

Kabul  severed  from  the  Moguls 1738 

Nadir  Shah,  king  of  Persia,  sacks  Delhi 1739 

The  Marathas  obtain  Malwa ;  Oude  becomes  independent  of  Delhi  1743 

Hyderabad  becomes  independent 1748 

The  Marathas  obtain  Southern  Onssa  ;  and  tribute  from  Bengal .  1751 
Invasion  of  the  Afghan  Ahmad  Shah  Durani,  and  cession  of 

Punjab  to  him 1751-2 

Ahmad  Shah  Durani  sacks  Delhi 1756 

The  Marathas  capture  Delhi 1759 

Defeat  of  the  Marathas  by  the  Afghana  at  the  battle  of  Panipat    .  1761 

General  Lake  captures  Delhi 1803 


List  of  Sovereigns  who  ebioned  at  Delhi  from  1198  to  1887  a.d. 
T?ie  Pathcmy  Afghan^  or  Qhori  Kings  of  HvadiLstan  who  reigned  at  Delhi. 


Muhammad  bin  Sam,  Ist  Dynasty    . 

Kutb-ud-din 

Aram  Shah       .        . 
Shams-ud-din  Altamsh     . 
Ruknu-din  Feroz      .... 
Sultanah  Biziah        .... 

Bahram 

A'lau-din 

Nasiru-din  Mahmud         .        .        • 

Balban 

Eaikubad         .  .        .        . 

Jelalu-din  Feroz  Shah,  2nd  Dynasty 
Ruknu-din  Ibrahim .... 
'Alau-din  Muhammad 
Shahabu-din  'Umar .        .        .        . 
Eutbu-din  Mubarak 
Nasiru-din  Khusni  .... 
Ohiasu-din  Tnghlak  Zrd  Dynasty 
Muhammad  bin  Tnghlak  . 

Feroz  Shah 

Tughlak 

Abubakr 

Muhammad  Shah     .        .        .        . 

Sikander 

Mahmud 

Nusrat  Shah 

Mahmud  restored  .  .  .  . 
Daulat  Ehan  Lodi  .  .  .  . 
Ehizr  Ehan  Sa'id,  4th  Dynasty 

Mubarak  Shah  II 

Muhammad  Shah 

'Alam  Shah 

Bahlol  Lodi,  6th  Dynasty 

Sikandar 

Ibrahim   ...... 


A.H. 

A.D. 

589 

,  1193 

602 

1206 

607 

1210 

607 

1211 

683 

1236 

634 

1236 

637 

1240 

639 

1242 

643 

1246 

664 

1266 

686 

1289 

689 

1290 

695 

1296 

695 

1296 

715 

1316 

716 

1316 

720 

1321 

720 

1321 

725 

1325 

752 

1361 

790 

1388 

791 

1389 

793 

1891 

795 

1393 

795 

1393 

797 

1396 

802 

1400 

816 

1413 

817 

1414 

824 

1421 

837 

1434 

849 

1445 

855 

1451 

894 

1489 

923 

1517 

Mrod. 


THB  HINDUS 


xlix 


The  Mogul 'Emperors  of  Hvnd%Mtcm. 

Babar 

Uomayun 

Akbar 

Jehangir 

ShahJehan 

Anrangzeb 

Bahadur  Shah ........ 

Jahandar  Shah 

Farroklisiyar 

Bafiu-darjat 

Bafia-daalat 

Mahammad  Shah 

Ahmad  Shah 

'Alamgir  II.      ....*..        , 

Shah\Alam 

Akbar  II. 

Bahadur  Shah 


A.H. 

A.D. 

899 

1494 

987 

1531 

963 

1556 

1014 

1605 

1037 

1628 

1068 

1658 

1118 

1707 

1124 

1718 

1124 

1718 

1131 

1719 

1181 

1719 

1131 

1719 

1162 

1748 

1168 

1754 

1173 

1759 

1221 

1806 

1252 

1837 

THE  HINDUS 


The  first  form  of  the  Hindu  religion  was  Vedism,  the  worship  of 
nature,  as  represented  in  the  songs  and  prayers  collectively  called 
Veda.  Their  chief  gods  were  the  triad  Indra  (rain),  Agni  (fire),  and 
Surya  (sun).  Then  followed  Brahmanism,  from  brih^  to  expand,  which 
introduced  the  idea  of  a  universal  spirit^  or  essence,  which  permeated 
everything.  Men,  gods,  and  the  visible  world  were  merely  its  mani- 
festations. Prose  works,  called  Brahmanas,  were  added  to  the  Yedas, 
to  explain  the  sacrifices,  and  the  duties  of  the  Brahmans,  or  priests. 
The  oldest  of  these  may  have  been  written  about  700  B.a  The  code 
of  Manu,  which  is  believed  to  have  originated  shortly  before  the 
Christian  era,  lays  down  the  rules  of  domestic  conduct  and  ceremony. 
It  divides  Hindus  into  four  castes.  First,  the  Brahmans ;  second, 
the  warriors,  called  Kshattriyas  or  Bajputs,  literally  "of  the  royal 
itock '' ;  third,  the  agricultural  settlers,  called  Yaisyas.  All  these 
\im%  of  Aryan  descent^  were  honoured  by  the  name  of  the  Twice-born 
cartes.  Fourth,  were  the  Sudras,  or  conquered  non- Aryan  tribes,  who 
became  serfs.  They  were  not  allowed  to  be  present  at  the  great 
national  sacrifices,  or  at  the  feasts,  and  they  were  given  the  severest 
toil  in  the  fields,  and  the  dirty  work  of  the  village  community.  The 
I^iests  asserted  that  they,  the  Brahmans,  came  from  the  mouth  of 
Brahma ;  the  R^'puts  or  Kshattriyas  from  his  arms ;  the  Yaisyas  from 
lus  thighs;  and  the  Sudras  from  his  feet     Caste  was  originally  a  dis- 


1  THE  HINDUS  India 

tinction  between  priest,  soldier,  artisan,  and  meniaL  Each  trade  in 
time  came  to  have  a  separate  caste.  The  priests  insisted  on  the  roles 
of  caste  as  a  means  of  securing  their  own  social  supremacy. 

The  modem  Hindu  religion  is  a  development  of  Brahmanism. 
There  is  one  impersonal  and  spiritual  Being  which  pervades  everything 
— one  God,  called  Brahma.  His  three  personal  manifestations  are  as 
Brahma,  the  Creator ;  Vishnu,  the  Preserver  ;  and  SitHi,  the  Destroyer 
and  Reproducer.  Brahma,  the  Creator,  is  generally  represented  with 
four  heads  and  four  arms,  in  which  he  holds  a  portion  of  the  Veda,  a 
spoon  for  lustral  observations,  a  rosary,  and  a  vessel  of  lustral  water 
(see  Plate).  Sarasvati,  the  wife  of  Brahma,  rides  on  a  peacock,  and 
has  a  musical  instrument,  the  "  vina,"  in  her  arms.  She  is  the  goddess 
of  music,  speech,  the  arts,  and  literature.  The  sin  of  lying  is  readily 
expiated  by  an  offering  to  her  (see  Plate). 

Vishnu  holds  a  quoit  in  one  hand,  a  conk  shell  in  another,  and 
sometimes  a  mace  or  club  in  another,  and  a  lotus  flower  in  a  fourth 
(see  Plate).     A  common  picture  shows  him  with  his  wife,  Lakslimi, 
sitting  on  Naga,  the  snake  (eternity),  with  Brahma  springing    on  a 
lotus  from  his  navel  (see  Plate).     He  is  said  to  have  come  down  from 
heaven  to  the  earth  nine  times,  and  is  expected  a  tenth  time.      These 
ten  incarnations  (avatara,  or  descents)  are — (1)  a  fish ;  (2)  a  tortoise ; 
(3)  a  boar  ;  (4)  a  man  lion  ;  (5)  a  dwarf ;  (6)  Parasu  rama  ;  (7)  RamujL, 
the  hero  of  the  epic  poem,  tlie  Ramayana.     His  wife,  Sita,  was  carried 
off  by  Bavana,  the  tyrant  king  of  Ceylon,  and  recovered  by  Rama  after 
making  a  bridge  of  rocks  to  the  island.     He  was  aided  by  Hanuman, 
a  non-Aryan  chie£    Rama  carries  a  bow  and  arrows  (see  Plate).     He  is 
revered  throughout  India  as  the  model  of  a  son,  a  brother,  and  a  hus- 
band.    When  friends  meet  it  is  common  for  them  to  salute  each  other 
by  uttering  Rama's  name  twice.     No  name  is  more  commonly  given 
to  children,  or  more  commonly  invoked  at  funerals  and  in  the  hour  of 
death.     Hanvman  is   represented   as   a   monkey,  his   images    being 
smeared  with  vermilion  (see  Plate).     He  is  worshipped  as  the  model 
of  a  faithful  devoted  servant.     (8)  Krishna,  whose  biography  is  given 
in  the  epic  poem,  Mahabharata,  although  himself  a  powerful  chief,  -was 
brought  up  among  peasants,  and  is  peculiarly  the  god  of  the  loinrer 
classes.     As  a  boy  he  killed  the  serpent  Kaliya  by  trampling  upon  his 
head.     He  lifted  the  mountain-range   Qovardhana  on  his  finger  to 
shelter  the  herdsmen's  wives  from  the  wrath  of  Indra,  the  Yedic  rain- 
god.     Krishna  had  countless  wives  and  108,000  sons.     He  is  a  sen- 
suous god.     He  stands  on  a  snake  with  his  left  hand  holding  its  body, 
and  a  lotus  in  his  right  (see  Plate).     He  is  painted  blue.     Sometimes 
he  is  playing  the  flute.     (9)  Buddha.     The  adoption  of  Buddha  as  one 
of  the  incarnations  was  a  compromise  with  Buddhism.     (10)  Kalki. 
Vishnu  will  descend  as  an  armed  warrior  on  a  winged  white  horse, 
for  the  purpose  of  dissolving  the  universe  at  the  close  of  the  fourth  or 


Introd,  THE  HINDUS  li 

Kali  age,  of  432,000  years,  when  the  world  haa  become  wholly 
depraved. 

Devotion  to  Vishnu  in  his  human  incarnations  of  Bama  and 
Krishna  (who  were  real  men)  is  the  most  popular  religion  of  India. 
His  descents  upon  earth  were  for  the  delivery  of  men  from  the  three- 
fold miseries  of  life,  viz.  (1)  from  lust,  anger,  avarice,  and  their  evil 
consequences  ;  (2)  &om  beasts,  snakes,  wicked  men,  etc.  ;  (3)  from 
demons.  Vishnu  has  power  to  elevate  his  worshippers  to  eternal 
bliss  in  his  own  heaven. 

Vishnu's  wife  Lakahmi,  the  goddess  of  wealth  and  beauty,  sprang 
from  the  froth  of  the  ocean  when  churned  by  gods  and  demons  (see 
Plate).  An  image  of  her  is  often  to  be  found  in  the  houses  of  shop- 
keepers. 

Siva  is  also  called  Mahadeva,  the  great  god,  and  his  wife  who  is 
known  by  several  names  and  in  several  characters  as  Parvati  (see  Plate) 
the  goddess  of  beauty,  Dnrga  or  Kali,  the  terrible  (see  Plate),  is  also 
called  Devi,  the  goddess  (see  Plate).  The  commonest  of  these  is  Kali, 
who  requires  to  be  propitiated  by  sacrifices  (see  Plate).  Siva  holds 
a  trident^  an  antelope,  a  noose  for  binding  his  enemies,  and  a  kind 
of  drum  in  his  four  hands,  and  wears  a  tiger's  skin  about  the  loin£ 
(see  Plate).  He  is  a  less  human  and  more  mystical  god  than  Vishnu, 
and  is  worshipped  in  the  form  of  a  symbol,  the  linga,  or  as  a  bidl. 
In  his  character  of  destroyer  Siva  haunts  cemeteries  and  burning- 
grounds,  but  his  terrible  qualities  are  now  more  especially  associated 
with  his  wife  Kali.  He  is  the  impersonation  of  the  reproductive  power 
of  nature,  the  word  Siva  meaning  "blessed"  or  "auspicious."  He 
is  the  typical  ascetic  and  self-mortifier.  And  as  a  learned  philosopher 
he  is  the  chief  god  of  the  priests. 

Siva  has  two  sons  Ganesh, or  Ganpati,  and  Kartikkeya.  Ganesh  has 
a  fat  body  and  an  elephant's  head  (see  Plate).  He  is  a  great  favourite, 
being  worshipped  for  good  luck  or  success.  It  is  as  a  bringer  of  success 
that  he  is  invoked  at  the  beginning  of  every  Indian  book.  KartUckeya 
has  six  heads  and  twelve  arms,  and  is  a  warlike  god,  the  leader  of  the 
hosts  of  good  demons  (see  Plate).  In  the  south  of  India  he  is  called 
Skanda  or  Subrahmanya. 

The  Hindu  theory  of  metempsychosis,  or  transmigration  of  souls, 
arises  from  the  belief  that  evil  proceeds  from  antecedent  evil,  and  that 
the  penalty  must  be  suffered  in  succeeding  ezistence&  According  to 
Hindu  belief  there  are  eighty-four  laks  of  different  species  of  animals 
through  which  the  soul  of  a  man  is  liable  to  pass,  and  the  Hindu's 
object  is  to  get  rid  of  the  series  of  perpetual  transmigrations  so  that  he 
may  live  in  the  same  heaven  with  the  personal  god.  To  this  end  he 
makes  offerings  to  the  image  of  a  god,  Krishna,  Ganesh,  or  Kali  being 
the  most  generally  selected  ;  he  abstains  from  killing  any  animal ;  he 
gives  money  to  the  priests ;  and  does  penances  which  sometimes  extend 


lii  THE  HINDUS  India 

to  fievere  bodily  torture.  His  religion  amounts  to  little  more  than  tihe 
fear  of  demons,  of  the  loss  of  caste,  and  of  the  priests.  Demons  have 
to  be  propitiated,  the  caste  rules  strictly  kept,  and  the  prieste  presented 
with  gifts.  Great  care  has  to  be  token  not  to  eat  food  cooked  by  a 
man  of  inferior  caste  ;  food  cooked  in  water  must  not  be  eaten  together 
by  people  of  different  castes,  and  the  castes  are  entirely  separated  with 
regard  to  marriage  and  trades.  A  sacred  thread  of  cotton  is  worn  by 
the  higher  castes.  Washing  in  any  holy  river,  particularly  the  Ganges, 
and  more  especially  at  Allahabad,  Benares,  Hardwar,  and  other  excep- 
tionally holy  spots,  is  of  great  efficacy  in  preserving  caste,  and  cleansing 
the  soul  of  impurities. 

The  traveller  should  remember  that  all  who  are  not  Hindus  are 
outcasts,  contact  with  whom  may  cause  the  loss  of  caste  to  a  Hindu. 
He  should  not  touch  any  cooking  or  water-holding  utensil  belonging 
to  a  Hindu,  nor  disturb  Hindus  when  at  their  meals ;  he  should  not 
molest  a  cow,  or  shoot  any  sacred  animal,  and  should  not  pollute  holy 
places  by  his  presence  if  any  objection  is  mada  The  most  sacred  of 
all  animals  is  the  cow,  then  the  serpent  and  the  monkey.  The  eagle 
(Garuda)  is  the  attendant  of  Vishnu,  the  bull  of  Siva,  the  goose  of 
Brahma,  the  elephant  of  Indra,  the  tiger  of  Durga,  the  buffalo  of  Kama, 
the  rat  of  Ganesh,  the  ram  of  Agni,  the  peacock  of  Eartikkeya,  the 
parrot  of  Kama  (the  god  of  love) ;  the  fish,  tortoise,  and  boar  are 
incarnations  of  Vishnu ;  and  the  crocodile,  cat,  dog,  crow,  many  trees, 
plants,  stones,  livers  and  tanks,  are  sacred. 

The  KaH-Ytig,  or  Hindu  Era 

According  to  the  Hindus,  the  world  is  now  in  ite  4th  Yug,  or  Age, 
the  Kali- Yug,  which  commenced  from  the  equinox  in  18th  Feb.  3102 
B.C.,  and  will  last  432,000  years.  The  3  preceding  ages  were  the 
Satya,  the  Treta,  and  the  Dwapaia.  The  Satya,  or  Age  of  Truth, 
lasted  1,728,000  years;  the  Trete  (from  tra,  "to  preserve")  lasted 
1,296,000;  and  the  Dwapara  (from  dwa,  "two,"  and  par,  ** after") 
864,000  years. 

The  Era  of  Vikrafnaditya  or  SwmwaJb 

This  era  commenced  from  the  first  year  of  T^ing  Vikramaditya,  who 
began  to  reign  at  Ujjain  67  b.c. 

The  Shaka  Era,  or  Era  of  ShaHvahana 
Shalivahana,  having  a  shali  (lion)  for  his  vehicle  {vahana\  was  a 
king  who  reigned  in  the  S.  of  India.    The  Shaka  era  dates  from  his 
birth  78  A.D. 

Era  of  Pofraskurama 

This  era  is  current  in  Malabar  and  Travancore,  and  dates  from  a 
king  of  that  name,  who  reigned  1176  a.ix 


PLATE   1. 


Vkhmi 


(   >.d 


I     I   \ 


8r^hm^ 


Laksfmjt 


Parvsti 


S^r^^stt 


DurgaorKall 


Devi 


Kartikkej/a 


Canesh 


To  fact  p,  lii. 


Some  Common  Forms  of  Hindu  Gods. 


PLATE  2. 


Some  Common  Forms  of  Hindu  Gods. 


U       UJ 


A 


6  7 

1,  2,  3,  and  4,  FoXLowtra  of  Vishnu. 
5,  6/7,  and  8,  Followers  of  Siva. 

Caste  Marks. 


Buddha 


(  Teaching) 


Buddha. 


(Ciitfteniplating) 


Buddha 


(Renou^ngthe  WoMj 


Buddha. 


TofdOow  Plate  1  after  p.  lii. 


Introd. 


HINDU  FESTIVALS 


liii 


The  Hindu  year  has  6  seasons  or  riius :  Vasamta, "  spring,"  grUhma, 
"the  hot  season,**  va/nha^  "the  rains,"  sharada,  "the  autumn"  (from 
skriy  "to  wither"),  hemantay  "the  winter,"  shidvi/ra,  "the  cool  season." 

Table  of  the  Seasons  cmd  Months  in  JSanscrit,  EiTidUj  cmd  English        :. 


1.  Vasakta     . 

2.  Gkishma     . 
8.  Vaksha  .    . 
4.  Shaaada    . 
6.  Hemanta    , 
6.  Shishira    . 

Names  of  Months. 

Sanscrit. 

Hindu. 

English. 

/  Ohaitra. 

i  lyeshtha. 
lA'shadha. 
J  Sravana. 
1  Bhadra. 
J  Ashwina. 
1  Kartika. 
j  Marffasirsha. 

/Magha. 
\Phalgaha. 

Chait 

Jeth. 

Asarh. 

Sawan. 

Bhadon. 

Asan. 

Kartik. 

Aghan. 

Pus. 

Magh. 

Phagun. 

April. 

June.   { 
July.      } 
August.  { 
September.  1 
October.      J 
November.  \ 
December,    j" 
January.       ) 
February.     ( 
March. 

Hindu  Festivals 

Maka/r  SavJcrcmti. — On  the  Ist  of  the  month  Magh  (about  12th 
January)  the  sun  enters  the  sign  Capricorn  or  Makar.  From  this  day 
till  the  arrival  of  the  sun  at  the  N.  point  of  the  zodiac  the  period  is 
called  Uttarayana,  and  from  that  time  till  he  returns  to  Makar  is 
Dakshinayana,  the  former  period  beiog  lucky  and  the  latter  unlucky. 
At  this  festival  the  Hindus  bathe,  and  rub  themselves  with  sesamum 
oil  They  also  invite  Brahmans  and  give  them  pots  full  of  sesamum 
seed.  They  w^ear  new  clothes  with  ornaments,  and  distribute  sesamum 
seed  mixed  with  sugar. 

Vascmt  Pcmchami  is  on  the  5th  day  of  the  light  half  of  Magh,  and 
is  a  festival  in  honour  of  Yasanta  or  Spring. 

SUvaarai,  the  night  of  Shiva,  is  held  about  the  middle  or  end  of 
February,  when  SUva  is  worshipped  with  flowers  during  the  whole 
night. 

HoU — ^A  festival  in  honour  of  Krishna,  held  fifteen  days  before  the 
moon  is  at  its  full,  in  the  month  Phagun,  celebrated  with  the  squirting 
or  throwing  of  red  or  yellow  powder  over  every  one.  All  sorts  of  licence 
are  indulged  in.     It  is  a  kind  of  carnival. 

GudM  Padma,  on  the  1st  of  Chait.  The  leaves  of  the  MeUa 
Azadirachta  are  eaten.  On  this  day  the  New  Year  commences,  and 
the  Almanac  for  that  year  is  worshipped. 

Bamama/vami,  held  on  the  9th  of  Chait,  in  honour  of  Eamachan- 
dra,  who  was  bom  on  this  day  at  Ayodhya.     A  small  image  of  Bama 


liv  HiirDU  FESTIVALS  India 

is  put  into  a  cradle  and  worshipped,  and  red  powder  called  gvM  is 
thrown  about. 

Vada  Savitri,  held  on  the  16th  of  Jeth,  when  women  worship 
the  Indian  fig  tree. 

Aihadhi  Ehadashi^  the  11th  of  the  month  Asarh,  sacred  to  Vishnu, 
when  that  deit7  reposes  for  4  months. 

Nag  Pa/nchami,  held  on  the  5th  of  Sawan,  when  the  serpent  Kali 
is  said  to  have  been  killed  by  Krishna.  Ceremonies  are  performed  to 
avert  the  bite  of  snakes. 

NaraU  Pwmima,  held  on  the  15th  of  Sawan.  The  stormy  season 
is  then  considered  over,  and  offerings  of  cocoa-nuts  are  thrown  into  the 
sea  on  the  west  coast 

GohU  Ashtami,  held  on  the  8th  of  the  dark  half  of  Sawan,  when 
Krishna  is  said  to  have  been  bom  at  Gokul.  Rice  may  not  be  eaten  on  this 
day,  but  fruits  and  other  grains.  At  night  Hindus  bathe  and  worship 
an  image  of  Ejishna,  adorning  it  with  the  Ocyrmim  sanctum.  The 
chief  votary  of  the  temple  of  Kanhoba  dances  in  an  ecstatic  fiashion,  and 
is  worshipped  and  receives  large  presents.  He  afterwards  scoui^es  the 
spectators. 

PUri  Amavasya,  held  on  the  30th  of  Sawan,  when  Hindus  go 
to  Yalkeshwar  in  Bombay  and  bathe  in  the  tank  called  the  Banganga, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  produced  by  Rama,  who  pierced  the 
ground  with  an  arrow  and  brought  up  the  water.  Shraddas  or  cere- 
monies in  honour  of  departed  ancestors  are  performed  on  the  side  of 
the  tank. 

Ghmesh  Ghatwrthi,  held  on  the  4th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of 
Ganesh,  a  clay  image  of  whom  is  worshipped  and  Brahmans  are 
entertained.  The  Hindus  are  prohibited  from  looking  at  the  moon 
on  this  day,  and  if  by  accident  they  should  see  it,  they  get 
themselves  abused  by  their  neighbours  in  the  hope  ttiat  this  will 
remove  the  curse. 

BuM  Panchami,  held  on  the  day  following  Ganesh  Chaturthi,  in 
honour  of  the  7  Rishis. 

Oavrv  Vahauy  held  on  the  7  th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of  Shiva's 
wife,  called  Gauri  or  the  Fair.  Cakes  in  the  shape  of  pebbles  are  eaten 
by  women. 

Woman  DwadaMf  on  the  12th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of  the  6tli 
incarnation  of  Vishnu,  who  assumed  the  shape  of  a  dwarf  to  destroy 
Bali. 

Anamt  Chaturdashi,  held  on  the  14th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of 
Ananta,  the  endless  serpent 

PUri  PaJcsky  held  on  the  last  day  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of  the 
Pitras  or  Ancestors,  when  offerings  of  fire  and  water  are  made  to 
them. 

Datara,  held  on  the  10th  of  Asan,  in  honour  of  Durga,  who  on 


Inbrod,  THS  buddhists  Iv 

this  day  slew  the  bufiblo-headed  demon  Maheshasur.  On  this  day 
Rama  inarched  against  Havana,  and  for  this  reason  the  Marathas  chose 
it  for  their  expeditions.  Branches  of  the  BtUea  frondom  are  offered  at 
the  temples.  This  is  an  auspicious  day  for  sending  children  to  school. 
The  9  preceding  days  are  called  Navaratra,  when  Brahmans  are  paid  to 
recite  hymns  to  Dnrga. 

DitoaU,  *'  feast  of  lamps,"  from  di/uHiy  "  a  lamp,"  and  ali,  "  a  row," 
held  on  the  new  moon  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of  Kali  or  Bhawani,  and 
more  particularly  of  Lakshmi,  when  merchants  and  bankers  count  their 
wealth  and  worship  it  It  is  said  that  Vishnu  killed  a  giant  on  that 
day,  and  the  women  went  to  meet  him  with  Hghted  lamps.  In 
memory  of  this  lighted  lamps  are  set  afloat  in  rivers  and  in  the  sea, 
and  auguries  are  drawn  from  them  according,  as  they  shine  on  or  are 
extingidshed. 

Bdi  Pratipada  is  held  on  the  1st  day  of  Kartik,  when  Hindus  fill 
a  basket  with  rubbish,  put  a  lighted  lamp  on  it,  and  throw  it  away 
outside  the  house,  saying,  **  Let  troubles  go  and  the  kingdom  of  Bali 
come." 

Kartik  EkadaM,  held  on  the  11  th  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of  Vishnu, 
who  is  said  then  to  rise  from  a  slumber  of  4  months. 

Kartik  Pwmima^  held  on  the  full  moon  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of 
Shiva,  who  destroyed  on  that  day  the  demon  Tripurasura. 

THE  BUDDHISTS 

Gautama,  afterwards  called  Buddha  (the  enlightened),  was  bom  in 
the  sixth  century  b.0.  His  father  was  a  prince  of  the  Sakya  tribe,  and 
of  the  Kshattriya  or  Bajput  caste.  Driving  in  his  pleasure  grounds 
Qautama  met  a  man  bowed  down  with  age ;  then  a  msm.  stricken  with 
incurable  disease ;  then  a  corpse ;  and  finally  an  ascetic  walking  in  a 
cabn  and  dignified  manner.  Much  troubled  by  the  spectacle  of  human 
suffering,  he  decided  to  leave  his  happy  home,  his  loved  wife,  and  the 
child  which  had  just  been  bom  to  him ;  he  cut  off  his  long  hair ; 
exchanged  his  princely  raiment  for  the  rags  of  a  passer-by ;  and  went 
ou  alone  as  a  homeless  beggar.  This  is  called  the  Great  Renunciation. 
He  studied  under  two  Brahman  hermits  in  the  Patna  district,  who 
taught  him  to  mortify  the  body.  For  six  .years  he  inflicted  severe 
austerities  upon  himself,  and  gradually  reduced  his  food  to  a  grain  of 
rice  per  diem.  But  no  peace  of  mind  or  divine  enlightenment  came. 
He  thereupon  gave  up  penance  and  sat  in  meditation  under  a  fig  tree 
(the  Pipal),  where  he  was  tempted  by  Mara,  the  personification  of 
carnal  desire,  to  return  to  his  home  and  the  world,  but  he  resisted  and 
thus  became  the  Enlightened. 

Buddha  taught  that  all  life  is  suffering  ;  that  suffering  arises  from 
indulging  desires,  especially  the  desire  for  continuity  pf  life  ;  and  that 


Ivi  BUODHiar  rjBBTiVALs  India 

the  only  hope  of  relief  lies  in  the  suppression  of  desire  and  the  ex- 
tinction of  existence.  A  man's  object  should  be  to  become  enlightened 
by  meditation  and  introspection,  so  as  to  earn  a  cessation  of  the  cycle 
of  litres  through  which  he  would  otherwise  be  destined  to  pass,  and 
thus  finally  to  reach  nirvana,  which  puts  an  end  to  all  re-birth.  He 
should  accumulate  merit  with  the  object  of  annihilating  all  conscious- 
ness of  self;  he  should  respect  the  life  of  all  creation  in  order  to  earn 
the  extinction  of  his  own.  In  this  task  he  must  depend  upon  himself 
alone,  and  not  upon  any  spiritual  aid  or  guidance.  All  men  are 
capable  of  attaining  nirvana,  without  distinction  of  caste,  and  neither 
sacrifices  nor  bodily  mortifications  are  of  any  avail.  It  is  a  pessimist 
and  atheist  creed,  to  which,  however,  excellent  moral  rules  have  been 
attached.  Buddhism  gave  some  encouragement  to  education  ;  it  in- 
culcated universal  benevolence  and  compassion;  and  stimulated  exertion 
by  declaring  that  a  man's  future  depended,  not  upon  sacrifices  and 
self-torture,  but  upon  his  own  acts.  It  is  <<  the  embodiment  of  the 
eternal  verity  that  as  a  man  sows  he  wHl  reap ;  associated  with  the 
personal  duties  of  mastery  over  self  and  kindness  to  all  men ;  and 
quickened  into  a  popular  religion  by  the  example  of  a  noble  and 
beautiful  life"  (Sir  W.  W.  Hunter).  "It  substituted  a  religion  of 
emotion  and  sympathy  for  one  of  ceremonial  and  dogma"  (H.  G.  Keene). 
It  never  ousted  Brahmanism  from  India,  but  the  two  systems  existed 
together  from  about  B.a  600  to  a.d.  800,  when  it  finally  disappeared 
from  India  (except  Ceylon).  Sir  Monier  Williams  estimates  that 
there  are  not  more  than  100,000,000  Buddhists  in  the  world,  and 
that  this  number  is  decreasing.  Buddha  is  generally  represented  in 
one  of  three  attitudes  ;  he  sits  cross-legged,  either  with  his  hands  in 
contact  in  an  attitude  of  profound  meditation,  or  with  one  hand  point- 
ing to  the  earth,  or  with  both  hands  raised  in  the  preaching  posture. 
His  ears  sometimes  reach  to  his  shoulders  (see  Plate). 

The  small  sect  of  Jains  are  the  only  Buddhists  left  in  India  (if 
Ceylon  be  excluded).  Their  founder  was  Mahat^ira,  a  contemporary 
of  Qautama.  The  Jains  consider  bodily  torture  to  be  necessary  to 
salvation ;  they  do  not  agree  with  other  Buddhists  in  denying  the 
existence  of  a  soul,  but  believe  that  even  inorganic  matter  has  a  soul, 
and  that  a  man's  soul  may  pass  into  a  stone.  They  carry  the  Buddhisf  s 
concern  for  animal  life  to  an  extreme.  Their  figures  of  Buddha  are 
naked. 

Buddhist  Festivals 

The  New  Year  Festival  corresponds  to  the-  Makara-sankranti  of 
the  Hindus  (see  p.  liiL),  but  in  Burma  it  often  takes  place  as  late  as 
April  At  a  given  moment,  which  is  ascertained  by  the  astrologers  of 
Mandalay,  a  cannon  is  fired  off  announcing  the  descent  of  the  King  of 
the  Naths  ^enii)  upon  earth.     Then  begin  the  Saturnalia. 


/fltrod  HINDU  AND  BUDDHIBT  DATES — THE  SIKHS  Ivii 

The  last  birth  of  Gkkutamii  is  celebrated  at  the  end  of  April  or 
beginning  of  May  by  the  worship  of  his  images,  followed  by  processions. 

The  festival  of  lamps,  corresponding  to  the  Hindu  '*  diwali ''  (see 
p.  Iv.),  occurs  at  the  end  of  the  rainy  season,  and  is  a  day  of  rejoicing. 

In  Ceylon  the  coming  of  the  Buddha  to  their  island  is  celebrated 
by  a  festival  in  March  or  April,  when  the  pilgrims  visit  either  his 
footprint  on  Adam's  Peak,  or  the  sacred  £o-tree  at  Anuradhapura. 


Some  bablt  Hindu  and  Buddhist  dates 

B.a 

The  Yedas  or  hymns (probably  about)  1400-800 

Birth  of  Gautama  Buddha  (the  Enlightened)   .        .        .        (probably)  557 
Death  of  Buddha ;  First  Great  Council  of  BuddhiitB  (probably)  478 

Second  Great  Buddhist  Council 378 

Alexander  the  Great  crosses  the  Indus  near  Attock  ;  defeats  Forus 
at  the  passage  of  the  Jhelum  (Hydaspes) ;  captures  Mooltau,  where 
he  is  severely  wounded ;  and  then  retires  to  Persia  via  Karachi 
and  Beluchistan,  leaving  Greek  garrisons  behind  him  .  827-6 
Chandra  Gupta,  a  Hindu,  conquers  the  Gangetio  valley  .         .  316 
Chandra  Gupta  receives  a  Greek  ambassador,  named  Megasthenes    .  306 
Asoka,  grandson  of  Chandra  Gupta,  is  converted  to  Buddhism         .          257 
Asoka  convenes  the  third  Buddhist  Council  at  Patna,  and  dissemi- 
nates the  principles  of  the  faith 244 

The  Mahabharata,  an  epic  poem  of  the  heroic  age  in  Northern 
India  ;  the  Ramayana,  an  epic  poem  relating  to  the  Aryan  advance 
into  Southern  India  (of  about  1000  B.  o.) ;  and  the  code  of  Manu 
laying  down  the  laws  and  ceremonies  for  Brahmans — are  all  of 

uncertain  age, but  may  date  from 200-500 

The  era  of  Samwat  dates  from  YikramadiWa,  of  Ujjain,  who  with- 
stood the  inroads  of  the  Scythians.  The  drama  of  Sakuntala, 
or  the  lost  ring 57 

The  Northern  form  of  Buddhism  becomes  one  of  the  State  religions 

of  China       , 66 

The  era  of  Saka  dates  from  Salivahana 78 

The  fourth  and  last  Buddhist  Council  held  under  the  Scythian  King 

TCiLmfthVu. (about)  100 

Pilgrimage  of  the  Chinaman  Fa  Hiang  to  Buddhist  shrines  in  India  400 

Simikr  pilgrimage  of  the  Chinaman  Hiouen  Thsang        .        .        .  629-45 

The  Vishnuite  doctrines  embodied  in  the  Vishnu  Purana         .         .  1045 
Birth  of  Nanak  Shah,  a  Hindu  reformer,  who  preaches  the  abolition 

of  caste  and  establishes  the  Sikh  religion 1469 


THE    SIKHS 

The  Sikhs  are  a  sect  of  Hindus  who  follow  a  reformer  named 
Nanak  Shah,  who  was  bom  near  Lahore  in  1469.  The  word  Sikh 
means  a  '*  disciple "  of  the  Guru  or  teacher.  Except  in  denouncing 
idolatry  and  in  welcoming  all  ranks,  without  distinction  of  caste, 


Iviii  THE  SIKHS  India 

NanaVs  philosophy  was  very  similar  to  that  of  the  worshippers  of 
Vishnu.  Garu  Govind  finally  abolished  caste,  establiished  the  Sikh 
religion  on  a  political  and  military  basis,  and  stimulated  the  worship 
of  the  Granth,  or  holy  book,  which  is  now  the  chief  Sikh  god. 

In  the  middle  of  the  16th  century  the  Sikhs,  who  had  been 
gradually  rising  into  power,  struggled  with  the  Afghans  for  supremacy 
in  the  Punjab.  In  1716  their  last  Guru,  Banda,  was  tortured  to 
death  by  the  Mogul.  In  1764  they  fought  a  long  and  doubtful  battle 
with  the  Afghan  Ahmad  Shah  Durani,  in  the  vicinity  qf  Amritsar. 
They  then  captured  Lahore,  destroyed  many  mosques,  and  made  their 
Afghan  prisoners,  in  chains,  wash  the  foundations  with  the  blood  of 
swine. 

From  this  period,  1764,  the  Sikhs  became  the  ruling  power  in  the 
Punjab.  The  following  is  a  chronological  table  of  their  Gurus,  or 
spiritual  leaders.  Govind  refused  to  name  a  successor.  He  said  : — 
"  He  who  wishes  to  behold  the  Guru,  let  him  search  the  Granth." 

GUBUS  OF  THE  SiKHS 

A.I>. 

1.  Nanak,  founder  of  the  Sikh  sect,  bom  1469,  died  ....  1639 

2.  Angad 1552 

3.  Amara  das 1552 

4.  Ram  das,  built  the  lake  temple  at  Amritsar  .        .        .        .        .  1574 

5.  Aijun  Mai,  compiled  the  Adi  Oranth 1581 

6.  Har  Govind,  first  warlike  leader 1606 

7.  Har  Rae,  his  grandson 1644 

8.  Har  Krishna,  died  at  Delhi 1661 

9.  Tegh  Bahadur,  put  to  death  by  Aurangzeb  in  1676  .         .  1664 

10.  Govind,  remodelled  the  Sikh  Government 1675 

11.  Banda .     1708 

The  Sikhs  were  now  formed  into  confederacies  called  Misls,  each 
under  a  Sirdar,  or  chief.     These  were — 

1.  Bhangi,  called  from  their  fondness  for  bhang,  extract  of  hemp. 

2.  Nishani,  standard-bearers. 

8.  Shahid  or  Nihang,  martyrs  and  zealots. 

4.  Ramgarhi,  from  Bamgarh,  at  Amritsar. 

5.  Nakeia,  fh>m  a  country  so  called. 

6.  Alhuwsili,  from  the  village  in  which  Jassa  lived. 

7.  Ghaneia  or  Ehaneia. 

8.  Faizulapuri  or  SinghpurL 

9.  Sukarmakicu  . 

10.  Dalahwala. 

11.  Erora  Singhia  or  Panjgarhia. 

12.  Phulkia. 

AH  the  other  Misls  were,  about  the  year  1823,  subdued  by  Raujit 
Sing  of  the  Sukarchakia,  and  for  a  long  time  Ranjit  was  the  most 
prominent  personage  in  India.     He  died  in  1839. 


Introd.  THE  PABSIS  lix 


THE  PARSIS 

The  Parsis,  formerly  inhabitants  of  Persia,  are  the  modem  followers 
of  Zoroaster,  and  now  form  a  numerous  and  influential  portion  of  the 
population  of  Surat  and  Bombay. 

When  the  Empire  of  the  Sassanides  was  destroyed  by  the  Saracens, 
about  650  aj>.,  the  Zoroastrians  were  persecuted,  and  some  of  them 
fled  to  Hindustan,  where  the  Bajah  of  Ghizerat  was  their  principal 
protector.  They  suffered  considerably  from  the  persecution  of  Moham- 
medans until  the  time  of  the  British  occupation.  Their  worship,  in 
the  course  of  time^  became  coirupted  by  Hindu  practices,  and  the 
reverence  for  fire  and  the  sun,  as  emblems  of  the  glory  of  Ormuzd, 
degenerated  into  idolatrous  practices.  The  sacred  fire,  which  Zoroaster 
was  said  to  have  brought  from  heaven,  is  kept  burning  in  consecrated 
spots,  and  temples  are  built  over  subterranean  fires.  Priests  tend  the 
fires  on  the  altars,  chanting  hymns  and  burning  incense.  A  partially 
successful  attempt  was  made  in  1852  to  restore  the  creed  of  Zoroaster 
to  its  original  purity.  In  order  not  to  pollute  the  elements,  which 
they  adore,  they  neitiier  bum  nor  bury  their  dead,  but  expose  their 
corpses  to  be  devoured  by  carnivorous  birds  (see  Towers  of  Silence, 
Bombay).  There  is  now  a  marked  desire  on  the  part  of  the  Parsis  to 
adapt  themselves  to  the  manners  and  customs  of  Europeans.  The 
public  and  private  schools  of  Bombay  are  largely  attended  by  their 
children,  and  every  effort  is  made  to  procure  the  translation  of  English 
works.  Many  follow  commercial  pursuits,  and  several  of  the  wealthiest 
merchants  of  India  are  members  of  this  religious  community. 

Pabsi  Months 

There  are  12  months,  of  30  days  each,  and  5  days  are  added  at 
the  end.     They  approximate  as  below  to  the  English  months. 


1.  Farvardin,  September. 

2.  Ardibihisht,  October. 

3.  Ehurdad,  November. 

4.  Tir,  December. 

5.  Amardad,  January. 

6.  Sharivar,  February. 


7.  Mihr,  March. 

8.  Aban,  April. 

9.  Adar,  May. 

10.  Deh,  June. 

11.  Bahman,  July. 

12.  Asfandiyar,  August 


The  Parsi  Festivals 

FaMif  New  Yearns  Day.  The  1st  of  Farvardin.  The  Parsis  rise 
earlier  than  usual,  put  on  new  clothes,  and  pray  at  the  Fire  Temples. 
They  then  visit  friends  and  join  hands,  distribute  alms  and  give 
clothes  to  servants  and  others.  This  day  is  celebrated  in  honour  of 
the  accession  of  Yezdajird  to  the  throne  of  Persia^  632  a.d. 


Ix  PA.R8I  FESTIVALS AROHITEOTURE  India 

Farvardin-Ja^scm,  on  the  19t1i  of  Farvardin,  on  which  ceremonies 
are  perfonned  in  honour  of  the  dead  called  Frohars  or  **  protectors." 
There  are  1 1  other  Jasans  in  hononr  of  various  angel& 

Khurdad-^al,  the  birthday  of  Zoroaster,  who  is  said  to  have  been 
bom  1200  B.O.  at  the  city  of  Rai  or  Rhages  near  Teheran. 

Jamshidd  NaurosSy  held  on  the  2l8t  of  Mihr.  It  dates  from  the  time 
of  Jamshid,  and  the  Parsis  ought  to  commence  their  New  Year  from  it 

Zaaiaskte  Diso,  held  on  the  11th  of  Deh  in  remembrance  of  the 
death  of  Zartasht  or  Zoroaster. 

Muktcut,  held  on  the  last  ten  days  of  the  Zoroastrian  year,  including 
the  last  five  days  of  the  last  month,  and  the  five  intercalary  days  called 
the  OiUha  Oahamhars,  A  clean  place  in  the  house  is  adorned  with  fruits 
and  flowers,  and  silver  or  brass  vessels  filled  witii  water  are  placed  there. 
Ceremonies  are  performed  in  hononr  of  the  souls  of  the  dead. 

AECHITECTURE 

RELiaiON  has  so  great  an  influence  upon  architecture  that  we  may 
most  conveniently  classify  the  different  styles  in  India  as  Buddhist, 
Brahman,  and  Mohammedan. 

Buddhist. — Although  Gautama  preached  600  B.a,  his  religion  made 
little  progress  before  its  adoption  by  the  great  Asoka,  who  reigned 
from  272  to  236  B.O.  The  palaces^  halls,  and  temples  which  may 
have  existed  before  the  time  of  Asoka  were  made  of  wood,  and  have 
perished.  There  was  no  stone  architecture  in  India  before  Asoka, 
and  all  the  monuments  known  to  us  for  five  or  six  centuries  after  his 
date  are  Buddhist. 

Every  Buddhist  locality  was  sanctified  by  the  presence  of  relics, 
which  were  contained  in  dagobas,  or  topea  Some  topes  were  without 
relics,  the  oldest  and  simplest  form  of  tope  being  a  single  pillar 
(sthambra)  either  regularly  built,  or  carved  out  of  one  stone,  in  which 
case  it  was  called  a  lat  Where  a  tope  had  relics,  they  were  con- 
tained in  a  sort  of  box  or  case  at  the  summit  of  the  tope,  called  a  tee. 
Rails  are  found  surrounding  topes,  or  enclosing  sacred  trees,  pillars, 
etc.  Chaityas,  assembly  halls  or  temples,  correspond  to  the  churches 
of  the  Christian  religion.     Viharas  are  monasteries. 

The  best  known  topes  are  those  at  Blulsa,  Samath,  and  Buddh 
Qaya.  There  are  also  a  number  of  them  scattered  over  the  ancient 
province  of  Gandara,  the  capital  of  which  was  Peshawar — especially  at 
Manikyala.  In  Ceylon  there  are  topes  or  dagobas  at  Anuradhapura 
and  PoUonarua.  The  lats^  or  pillars,  stood  in  front  of,  or  beside,  each 
gateway  of  every  tope,  and  in  front  of  each  chaitya  hall.  Asoka  waa 
the  great  builder  of  pillars.  Two  of  his  are  still  in  existence  at 
Delhi,  and  a  more  complete  specimen  at  Allahabad.  The  iron  pillar 
'-^    the   mosque   at  old  Delhi  is   not  Buddhist,  but   seems   to   be 


Introd,  ARCHITBCTUBE  Izi 

dedicated  to  Vishnn.  The  most  interesting  rcdU  are  at  SancM  and 
Baddh  Gaya;  the  remains  of  the  Bharhut  rail  are  at  Calcutta,  and 
of  the  Amaravati  rail  in  the  British  and  Madras  Museums.  There  are 
good  examples  of  torans,  or  gateways,  with  the  rail  at  Sanchi. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  chaitya  halls  or  temples,  and  the  Viharas 
(monasteries),  is  derived  from  the  rock-cut  examples.  This  method  of 
working  is  much  easier  and  leas  expensive  than  the  ordinary  process 
of  building.  For  a  cave  nothing  but  excavation  is  required ;  while 
for  a  building  the  stone  has  to  be  quarried,  transported — perhaps  a 
long  distance — ^and  then  carved  and  erected.  According  to  Fergusson  ^ 
the  complete  excavation  of  a  temple,  both  externally  as  well  as 
internally,  would  cost  only  about  one-tenth  of  the  expenditure 
necessary  for  building ;  and  the  Buddhist  caves  were  still  cheaper,  as 
the  rock  was  not  cut  away  externally,  the  interior  chamber  alone 
being  excavated.  Examples  of  Chaityas  are  to  be  found  at  Karli, 
Bhaja  and  Bedsa,  Behar,  Nassick,  Ellora,  Ajanta,  and  Kanhari.  The 
vihara  is  a  kind  of  court  with  cells,  galleries  two  or  three  stories  high, 
and  richly  carved  pillars.  The  most  notable  specimens  are  at 
Udayagiri  and  ELhandagiri,  Bhaja  and  Bedsa,  Ajanta,  Nassick,  Bagh, 
Salsette,  Dumnar,  Ellora,  Jamalgarhi,  and  Takht-i-bahi  (near  Peshawar). 

The  architecture  of  the  Buddhists  proper  was  succeeded  by  that 
of  the  Jadns,  who  are  the  only  followers  of  that  religion  remaining  in 
India  (excepting  Ceylon).  The  Jains  were  great  builders.  Unlike 
the  Buddhists  they  were  not  great  cave-cutters,  though  some  examples 
of  their  cave- work  exist  at  Ellora.  The  characteristic  Jain  feature  is  the 
horizontal  archway,  which  avoids  the  strain  from  the  outward  thrust 
of  a  true  radiating  arch.  Indeed,  with  the  exception,  of  some 
specimens  of  the  time  of  Akbar,  no  radiating  arch  exists  in  any 
Buddhist,  Jain,  or  Hindu  temple  in  India  up  to  the  present  day. 
Another  Jain  feature  is  the  carved  bracket  form  of  capital,  which, 
springing  from  the  pillars  at  about  two-thirds  of  their  height,  extends 
to  the  architraves,  and  forms  a  sort  of  diagonal  strut  to  support  them. 
The  leading  idea  of  the  plan  of  a  Jain  temple  was  a  number  of 
columns  arranged  in  squares.  Their  domes,  like  their  arches,  were 
built  horizontally,  on  eight  pjpllars  forming  an  octagon,  with  four 
external  pillars  at  the  angles  to  form  a  square.  The  lateral  pressure  of 
a  dome  built  on  the  radiating  plan  by  the  Roman,  Byzantine,  or  Gothic 
architects  prevents  the  use  of  elegant  pillars,  great  cylinders  with 
heavy  abutments  being  necessary.  The  decoration  of  the  Jain  domes, 
being  horizontal,  allows  of  more  variety  than  can  be  given  to  the 
vertical  ribs  of  Roman  or  Gothic  models,  and  has  rendered  some  of 
the  Indian  domes  0ie  most  exqidsite  specimens  of  elaborate  roofing 
that  can  anywhere  be  seen.  The  Indian  dome  allows  the  use  of 
pendants  from  the  centre,  which  have  a  lightness  and  elegance  never 
^  MiHory  (tf  Indian  and  EasUm  ArdwUct¥/r^ 


Ixii  ABGHITSCTDRE  India 

even  imagined  in  Gothic  art.  On  the  other  hand  they  are  necessarily 
small,  and  require  large  stones,  while  a  dome  on  the  radiating 
principle  can  be  built  of  small  bricks.  The  Jains  built  their  temples 
in  groups,  or  cities,  of  temples^  as  at  Palitana,  Parasnatfa,  Gimar, 
Mount  Abu,  Muktagiri,  Khajurahu,  and  Gyraspore.  Their  love 
of  the  picturesque  led  them  to  build  their  cities  sometimes  on 
hill-tops,  as  at  Mount  Abu,  sometimes  in  deep  and  secluded  valleys,  as 
at  Muktagiri.  The  two  towers  of  Fame  and  Victory  at  Ohittore  are 
examples  of  Jain  work,  called  sikras.  Of  modem  Jain  architecture 
the  most  notable  specimens  are  at  Sonagarh  and  Muktagiri ;  the 
temple  of  Hathi  Sing  (a.d.  1848)  at  Ahmedabad  ;  and  the  temple  at 
Delhi,  about  100  years  old. 

Brahman  architecture  is  divided  by  Fergusson  into  the  three  styles 
of  Dravidian,  Ghalukyan,  and  Indo- Aryan.  The  Dravidian  or 
Madras  architecture  is  best  seen  at  Tanjore,  Trivalur,  Sri  Bangam, 
Chidambaram,  Bameswaram,  Madura,  Tinnevelly,  Conjeveram,  Goim- 
batore,  and  Vijayanagar.  *' There  is  nothing  in  Europe  that  can  be 
compared  with  these  Dravidian  temples  for  grandeur  and  solemnity, 
and  for  parallels  to  them  we  must  go  back  to  ancient  Egypt  and 
Assyria"  (Sir  G.  Birdwood).  The  temple  itself,  which  is  called  the 
Vimana,  is  always  square  in  plan,  surmounted  by  a  pyramidal  roof  of 
one  or  more  stories ;  a  porch  or  Mantapa  covers  the  door  leading  to 
the  cell  in  which  the  image  of  the  god  is  placed  ;  the  gate  pyramids 
or  Gopuras  are  the  principal  features  in  the  quadrangular  enclosures 
which,  with  numerous  other  buildings,  surround  the  Vimanas.  The 
chief  Dravidian  rock-cut  temples,  which,  unlike  the  Buddhist  caves, 
are  excavated  externally  as  well  as  internally,  are  at  Mahabalipur  and 
Ellora.  The  palaces  exhibit  Mohammedan  influence,  having  the 
Moorish  pointed  arch.  They  are  to  be  found  at  Madura,  Tanjore, 
and  Vijayanagar. 

The  Ghaliikya/n  style  was  at  its  best  in  the  province  of  Mysore 
during  the  three  centuries  a.d.  1000  to  1300,  when  the  Bellalas 
ruled  there.  They  erected  groups  of  temples  at  Somnathpur,  Belur, 
and  Hullabid.  Other  Ghalukyan  examples  are  at  Warangal  and 
Hammoncondah.  This  style  is  remarkable  for  elegance  of  outline  and 
elaboration  of  detail.  The  artistic  combination  of  horizontal  with 
vertical  lines,  and  the  play  of  outline  and  of  light  and  shade,  especially 
in  the  Hullabid  example,  far  surpass  anything  in  Gbthic  art  The 
animal  friezes  begin,  as  is  usual  in  India,  with  elephants  on  the  bottom 
line  ;  then  Hons,  then  horses,  then  oxen,  above  which  are  pigeons. 

Examples  of  the  Indo-Arycm,  or  Northern  style,  are  at  Bhuvanesh- 
war,  Khajurahu,  the  black  pagoda  at  Konarak,  the  temple  of  Jagannath 
at  Puri,  the  Garuda  pillar  at  Jajpur,  the  Teli-Ka-Mandir  at  Gwalior, 
the  temple  of  Vriji  at  Chitor,  the  golden  temple  of  Bishweshwar  at 
Benares,  the  red  temple  at  Bindraban,  and  the  modem  temple  erected 


Introd,  AROHITKOTUBE  Ixiii 

hy  Sindhia's  mother  at  Gwalior.     There  are  three  rock-cut  temples  of 
this  style  at  Badami,  and  the  Dumar  Lena  at  EUora. 

Of  Brahman  civil  architecture  the  best  specimens  are  the  tombs 
of  Sai^ram  Sing  and  Amara  Sing  at  Oodeypore,  and  of  Bakhtawar 
Sii^  at  Alwar.  The  latter  shows  the  foliated  arch  which  is  so 
common  in  Mogul  buildings ;  and  it  also  shows  the  Bengali  curved 
cornices,  whose  origin  was  the  bending  of  bamboos  used  as  a  support 
for  the  thatch  or  tiles.  The  finest  Brahman  palaces  are  at  Oodeypore, 
Datia,  Orchha,  Amber,  Dig,  and  the  Man  Sing  Palace  at.  Gwalior. 
The  beauty  of  Hindu  architecture  is  greatly  enhanced  by  the  use  of 
picturesque  sites,  either  on  hills,  in  valleys,  or  where  the  esthetic 
value  of  water  may  be  utilised.  At  Bajsamundra,  in  Oodeypore,  for 
example,  the  bund  or  dam  of  the  artificial  lake  is  covered  with  steps, 
which  are  broken  by  pavilions  and  kiosks^  interspersed  with  fountains 
and  statues,  the  whole  forming  a  fairy  scene  of  architectural  beauty. 

The  chief  styles  of  Mohommedcm  architecture  are  the  Patban  and 
the  MoguL  The  Pathans  found  in  the  colonnaded  courts  of  the 
Jain  temples  nearly  all  that  was  required  for  a  ready-made  mosque. 
They  had  to  remove  the  temple  in  its  centre,  and  erect  a  new  wall 
on  the  west  side,  adorned  with  niches — mihrabs — pointing  towards 
Mecca ;  and  they  added  a  screen  of  arches  with  rich  and  elaborate 
carvings.  The  best  examples  are  at  Delhi  and  Ajmere.  Of  the  screen 
at  the  Kutub  mosque,  Delhi,  Fergusson  says  that  the  carving  is, 
without  exception,  the  most  exquisite  specimen  of  its  class  known  to 
exist  anywhere.  He  says  of  the  Minar  that  ''both  in  design  and 
finish  it  far  surpasses  any  building  of  its  dass  in  the  whole  world  *'  ; 
and  considers  that  Giotto's  Campanile  at  Florence,  "  beautiful  though 
it  is,  wants  that  poetry  of  design  and  exquisite  finish  of  detail  which 
marks  every  moulding  of  the  minar."  During  the  Pathan  period 
tall  minarets  were  not  attached  to  the  mosques. 

We  have  no  examples  of  the  Mogul  style  in  the  reigns  of  Babar 
or  Humayun.  Akbar  was,  in  architecture  as  in  religion,  extremely 
tolerant,  and  his  buildings  exhibit  marked  Hindu  features.  The 
chief  of  them  still  in  existence  are  the  tomb  of  his  father  Humayun 
near  Delhi,  the  town  of  Fatehpur-Sikri,  the  fort  at  Allahabad,  the 
palace  at  Lahore,  the  tomb  he  began  for  himself  at  Sikandarah,  and 
the  red  palace  in  the  fort  at  Agra,  which  by  some  authorities,  in 
spite  of  its  Hindu  features,  is  ascribed  to  Jehangir.  The  tomb  of 
Anar  Kali  at  Lahore  was  built  by  Jehangir,  in  whose  reign  the  tomb 
of  Itimad-ud-daulah  at  Agra  was  built.  Shah  Jehan,  during  w^hose 
Tei^jin  the  Mogul  power  was  at  its  highest,  was  the  greatest  of  all 
Indian  builders.  There  is  a  great  contrast  between  the  manly  vigour 
and  exuberant  originality  of  Akbar,  and  the  extreme,  almost  efieminate, 
elegance  of  his  grandson.  Shah  Jehan  built  the  palace  at  Delhi, 
the  fort  and  palace  at  Agra,  and  the  famous  Taj  Mahal,  perhaps 


Iziy  ABIB  India 

the  most  beautifdl  building  in  the  world.  His  son  Aurangzeb  was 
a  religious  fanatic,  who  has  left  little  saye  the  mosque  at  Benares. 
The  later  examples  of  Mognl  architecture  at  Lucknow  show  marked 
deterioration,  which  is  partly  attributable  to  European  influence. 
Other  notable  examples  of  Mohammedan  architecture  are  at  Jaunpur, 
Mandu,  Sarkhej,  and  Ahmedabad. 

In  other  styles  should  be  mentioned  the  ruins  at  Martand  in 
Cashmere,  which  bear  eridence  of  classical  influence ;  and  the  modern 
Golden  Temple  of  the  Sikhs  at  Amritsar. 

The  Bwrmeae  pagoda,  with  its  thin  spire,  has  been  evolyed  from 
the  solid  hemispherical  dome  of  the  Buddhists.  The  best  examples  are 
at  Prome,  Pagan,  Bangoon,  Mandah&y,  and  the  Shwemawdaw  pagoda  at 
Pegu. 

ARTS 

Fergusson  says  of  Indian  sculftwre,  that  when  it  "  first  dawns  upon 
us  in  the  rails  at  Buddh  Gaya  and  Barhut,  250  to  200  B.O.,  it  is 
thoroughly  original,  absolutely  without  a  trace  of  foreign  influence, 
but  quite  capable  of  expressing  its  ideas.  Some  animals,  sucH  as 
elephants,  deer,  and  monkeys,  are  better  represented  there  than  in 
any  sculptures  known  in  any  part  of  the  world ;  so,  too,  are  some 
trees,  and  the  architectural  detaiLs  are  cut  with  an  elegance  and  pre- 
cision which  are  very  admirable.''  The  highest  perfection  was 
attained  in  the  4th  and  5th  centuries  a.d.  Litde  sculpture  of  any 
merit  has  been  produced  since  that  time. 

The  excellence  of  Indian  art  production  is  to  be  found  in  its  pottery, 
metal  work,  carving,  jewellery,  weaving,  dyeing,  and  embroidery.     In 
these  directions  the  Indian  artisan  is  remarkable  for  his  patience, 
accuracy  of  detail,  thoroughness,  and  artistic  sense  of  both  colour  and 
form.     The  elaboration  of  ornament  in  the  best  Indian  metal  ware, 
or  carving,  the  composition  of  colours  in  the  best  Indian  carpets,  or 
enamel,  the  form  of  the  best  Indian  pottery,  have  seldom,  if  ever,  been 
excelled.    Much  of  the  skill  of  the  Indian  handicraftsman  is  due  to  the 
hereditary  nature  of  his  occupation.     The  potter,  the  carpenter,  the 
smith,  the  weaver,  each  belongs  to  a  separate  caste  ;  a  son  inevitably 
follows  the  trade  of  his  father,  and  the  force  of  custom,  with  generally 
a  religious  basis,  impels  him  to  imitate  his  father's  work.     The  result 
is  that  the  form  and  workmanship  of  artisan  work  is  almost  exactly 
the  same  now  as  it  was  thousands  of  years  ago,  and  that  the  artisan, 
with   great  technical  and  imitative  skill,  has  little  creative  power. 
The  combined  competition  and  prestige  of  Europe  have  created   a 
tendency  to  imitate  European  methods.     The  best  work  used  to  be 
done,  at  leisure,  to  the  order  of  the  wealthy  princes  and  nobles  of  an 
ostentatious  native  court     Some  of  these  courts  have  been  aboliBhed% 


IfUrod,  ARTS  IXT 

while  others  have  suffered  in  purchasing  power  and  in  influence. 
The  authority  of  the  trade  guilds,  and  of  caste,  has  heen  relaxed 
under  the  freedom  of  British  rule,  and  the  importation  of  British 
goods  has  forced  many  artisans  into  agriculture  and  even  domestic 
service.  British  supremacy,  having  produced  peace,  has  almost 
destroyed  the  armourer's  trade ;  the  fancy  cheap  cotton  goods  of 
America  and  Britain  have  displaced  the  muslins  of  Dacca ;  aniline 
dyes,  and  jail  work,  have  nearly  killed  the  carpet  industry.  Whether 
the  Schools  of  Art  which  the  Gk>vemment  has  established  all  over 
India  have  hastened,  or  retarded,  the  process  of  degeneration  which 
is  everywhere  so  visible,  is  a  much -disputed  point  Some  trades 
which  were  dying  out  have  been  resuscitated  by  their  efforts ;  and 
the  mania  for  imitating  European  designs  is  sometimes  effectually 
diverted  from  the  worst  to  the  best  examples.  But  a  School  which 
contains  principally  casts  from  the  antique,  and  details  of  Italian  and 
Gothic  ornament,  must  inevitably  destroy  the  purity  of  indigenous  ideals, 
which  is  much  to  be  deplored.  To  restrain  rather  than  to  strengthen 
the  tendency  to  imitate  the  designs  and  methods  of  the  dominant  race, 
should  be  the  aim  of  art  education  throughout  the  country. 

In  the  very  slight  sketch  of  Indian  arts  which  follows,  certain 
places  are  mentioned  as  being  noted  for  particular  work ;  but  it 
should  be  remembered  that  the  small  towns  are  gradually  losing  their 
specialities,  the  best  workmen  drifting  steadily  towards  the  larger 
centres.  A  visit  is  recommended  to  the  Indian  Museum  at  South 
Kensington,  before  leaving  England. 

Nearly  every  Indian  village  has  its  potter,  who  is  kept  constantly 

at  work  making  domestic  utensils  of  baked  clay — for  in  millions  of 

households  no  earthen  vessels  can  be  used  a  second  time — ^as  well  as 

images  of  the  gods.     The  forms  of  the  utensils  which  he  makes  are 

of  great  antiquity  and  beauty.     The  best  glazed  pottery  is  made  in 

the  Punjab,  of  blue  and  white ;   and    in   Sind,  of  turquoise  blue, 

copper  green,  dark  purple,  and  golden  brown,  under  an  exquisitely 

transparent   glaze.     The   usual   ornament   is  a   conventional  flower 

pattern,  pricked  in  from  paper  and  dusted  along  the  pricking.     The 

Madura   (Madras)  pottery  deserves  mention  for  the  elegance  of  its 

form,  and  richness  of  its  colour.     The  Bombay  School  of  Art  produces 

imitations  of  Sind  ware.     In  the  Punjab  and  Sind,  and  especially 

at  Tatta  and   Hyderabad,  there   are   many  good  specimens  of  old 

Mohammedan   mosques   and   tombs   decorated    with   encaustic   tiles. 

One  of  the  finest  examples  is  the  mosque  of  Wazir  Khan  at  Lahore. 

The  Punjab  has  long  been  noted  for  its  gold  and  silver  work,  and 
especially  for  parcel-gilt  sarais,  or  water-vessels,  of  elegant  shape  and 
delicate  tracery.  The  gold  and  silver  ware  of  Cashmere,  Cutch, 
XacknoWy  Patna,  Bombay,  Ahmednagar,  Cuttack,  and  Tanjore,  is 
'worthy  of  mention.  The  hammered  repouss^  silver  work  of  Cutch 
[/?wim]  e 


Ixvi  ABTS  India, 

is   of  Dutch  origin.      The  embossed  silver  work  of  Madras,   with 
Dravidiau  figures  in  high  relief,  is  called  Swami  ware. 

Domestic  utensils  in  broM  and  copper  are  made  all  over  India,  the 
Hindus  using  the  brass  and  the  Mohammedans  the  copper.  The  brass 
is  cleaned  by  scrubbing  with  sand  or  earth  and  water ;  the  copper 
periodically  receives  a  lining  of  tin.  The  copper  bazaar  of  Bombay 
is  celebrated,  and  so  is  the  brass  ware  of  Moradabad.  Benares  is 
famous  for  cast  and  sculptured  mythological  images  and  emblems. 
Kansha  plates  are  made  at  Burdwan  and  Midnapore.  Other  places 
noted  for  brass  and  copper  ware  are  Nagpore,  Ahmedabad,  Nassick, 
Poona,  Murshedabad,  and  Tanjore.  The  Cashmere  and  Peshawar 
ware  has  marked  Persian  features. 

The  artisans  of  India  were  formerly  very  skilful  in  the  use  of  iron 
and  tied.  Fergusson  says  of  the  iron  pillar  in  the  Kutub  mosque  at 
Old  Delhi,  to  which  he  assigns  the  date  of  a.d.  400,  that  "  it  opens  our 
eyes  to  an  unsuspected  state  of  affairs  to  find  the  Hindus  at  that  c^ 
capable  of  forging  a  bar  of  iron  larger  than  any  that  have  been  forged 
even  in  Europe  up  to  a  very  late  date,  and  not  frequently  even  now. 
It  is  almost  equally  startling  to  find  that,  after  an  exposure  for  fourteen 
centuries,  it  is  unrusted,  and  the  capital  and  inscription  are  as  clear 
and  as  sharp  as  when  the  pillar  was  first  erected.''  Sir  Qeorge 
Birdwood  ^  says :  "  The  blades  of  Damascus,  which  maintained  their 
pre-eminence  even  after  the  blades  of  Toledo  became  celebrated,  were 
in  fact  of  Indian  steeL"  Indian  cvrms  are  characterised  by  their 
superb,  and  sometimes  excessive,  ornamentation.  But  the  modern 
work  in  iron,  steel,  and  arms  is  not  of  much  importance. 

Damascening  is  the  art  of  encrusting  one  metal  upon  another. 
The  best  or  true  damascening  is  done  by  cutting  the  metal  deep,  and 
filling  it  with  a  thick  wire  of  gold  or  silver.  The  more  common 
process  is  to  heat  the  metal  to  a  blue  colour,  scratch  the  design  upon 
it,  conduct  a  gold  or  silver  wire  along  the  pattern,  and  then  sink  it 
carefully  with  a  copper  tooL  The  art  comes  from  Damascus,  hence 
its  name.  Damascening  in  gold  is  carried  on  chiefly  in  Cashmere, 
Gujrat,  and  Sialkot,  and  is  called  koft-work.  In  silver  it  is  called 
bidri,  from  Bidar,  in  the  Nizam's  dominions.  A  cheap  imitation  of 
koft-work  is  made  with  gold  leal 

Enamel  is  an  artificial  vitreous  mass,  ground  fine,  mixed  witli 
gum  water,  applied  with  a  brush,  and  fixed  by  fusion.  In  the 
champlev^  enamelling  of  Jeypore — the  best  in  India,  perhaps  in  the 
world — the  colours  are  placed  in  depressions  hollowed  out  of  the 
metal,  and  are  made  to  adhere  by  fire.  The  Jeypore  artist  is  renowned 
for  the  purity  and  brilliance  of  his  colours,  and  the.  evenness  with 
which  they  are  applied.  He  is  particularly  famous  for  a  fiery  red, 
which  is  unique.  For  enamel  on  gold — besides  Jeypore — ^Alwar,  Delhi, 
^  TJie  IndustriaZ  Arts  of  India. 


Inifod.  ABTB  Ixvii 

and  Benares  should  be  mentioned ;  on  silver,  Mooltan,  Hyderabad 
(Sind),  Karachi,  Abbotabad,  Gutch,  Lahore,  Kangra,  and  Cashmere ; 
on  copper  the  Punjab  and  Cashmere.  A  quasi- enamel,  the  mode 
of  preparation  being  kept  secret,  is  made  of  green  colour  at  Fertabghar, 
and  of  blue  at  Butlam.  Glass  was  known  in  India  at  the  time  of 
the  Mahabharata ;  glass  bangles  and  other  ornaments  are  made  all 
over  the  country. 

The  splendour  of  Indian  jewellery  is  due  to  the  free  use  of  diamonds, 
rubies,  emeralds,  and  other  gems,  some  of  them  mere  scales,  so  light 
that  they  will  float  on  water.  A  dazzling  variety  of  rich  and  brilliant 
colours  is  produced  by  means  of  gems  which  are  valueless  except  as 
points^  sparkles,  and  splashes  of  gorgeousness.  Bings  for  the  fingers 
and  toes,  nose  and  ears ;  bracelets,  armlets,  anklets,  nose  studs, 
necklaces  made  up  of  chains  of  pearls  and  gems ;  tires,  aigrettes, 
and  other  ornaments  for  the  head  and  forehead ;  chains  and  zones 
of  gold  and  silver  for  the  waist — such  are  the  personal  ornaments 
in  daily  use  amongst  men  and  women,  Mohammedans  and  Hindus. 
One  reason  for  the  great  popularity  of  gold  and  silver  jewellery  is 
that  it  is  portable  wealth,  easily  preserved.  The  silver  filigree  work 
of  Cuibtack  and  of  Ceylon,  generally  with  the  design  of  a  leaf,  is 
remarkable  for  delicacy  and  finish.  For  gold  and  silver  jewellery, 
Trichinopoly,  Vizagapatam,  and  Ahmedabad  are  noted.  The  best 
enamelled  jewellery  comes  from  Delhi,  Benares,  and  Hyderabad 
(Deccan).  The  old  Delhi  work  in  cut  and  gem -encrusted  jade  is 
highly  prized.  The  pietra  dura  Madd  work  of  Agra  was  originated 
in  the  Taj  Mahal  by  Austin  de  Bordeaux.  While  Florentine  in 
origin  and  style,  the  designs  have  a  thoroughly  local  character.  The 
wdi-known  Bombay  boxes  are  a  variety  of  inlaid  wood-work  called 
piqn4 

Indian  lacquer,  so-called,  is  really  Uic  tv/mery.  It  is  the  surface 
obtained  by  pressii^  a  stick  of  hard  shellac  to  a  rapidly  revolving 
wooden  object.  The  friction  develops  heat  sufficient  to  make  it 
adhere  irregularly.  Further  friction  with  an  oiled  rag  polishes  the 
surface;  The  lac  is  obtained  from  the  incrustations  made  by  the 
female  of  an  insect  {coccub  lacca)  on  the  branches  of  certain  trees. 
The  numeral  lac,  signifying  100,000,  is  derived  from  the  enormous 
number  of  these  insects  found  on  a  small  area.  The  chief  consumption 
of  lac  in  Europe  is  for  sealing-wax  and  varnishes.  All  over  India  it 
is  made  into  variegated  marbles,  walking-sticks,  mats,  bangles,  and 
toys.  Lac -turned  wooden  and  papier- mach4  boxes  and  trays  are 
made  in  Cashmere,  Sind,  Punjab,  Bajputana,  Bareilly,  and  Karnul 
(Madias).  Of  small  objects,  the  mock  ornaments  for  the  idols,  made 
of  paper,  should  be  noted  at  Ahmedabad  and  in  most  parts  of  India. 
Artificial  flowers,  and  models  of  the  temples,  are  made  of  the  pith  of 
the  sola  plant,  hence  the  '^  solar  topee,"  or  sun-hat  of  pith. 


Ixviii  ABTS  India 

Skilful  carving  is  done  at  Bombay  in  blackwood,  for  doors  or 
fomiture,  in  a  style  derived  from  the  Dutch.  At  Ahmedabad  the 
blackwood  is  carved  into  vases,  inkstands,  and  other  small  objectei 
Jackwood  also  is  carved  in  rectangular  forms  at  Bombay.  Sandal- 
wood is  carved  at  Bombay,  Surat,  Ahmedabad,  Oanara,  Mysore,  and 
Travancore  ;  ebony  at  Bijnur  (Rohilkund) ;  ivory  at  Amritsar,  Benares, 
and  Yizagapatam.  Silhet  is  noted  for  its  ivory  fans,  Butlam  for  its 
ivory  bracelets,  and  Yizagapatam  for  boxes  of  ivory  and  stag's  horn. 
The  beautiful  carved  ivory  combs,  which  used  to  be  found  in  every 
bazaar,  are  not  now  so  common.  Figures  of  animals,  and  of  the  gods, 
are  carved  in  white  marble  at  Ajmere,  Jeypore,  and  Bajputana 
generally.  Excellent  building  stone  is  found  in  Rajputana,  where  it 
is  carved  for  architectural  purposes.  At  Fatehpur-Sikri  (Agra)  models 
of  the  ruins  are  carved  in  soapstone.  Models  in  clay  of  fruit  and 
figures  are  admirably  made  at  Lucknow,  Poona,  and  Calcutta. 
In  the  cities  of  Guzerat,  and  wherever  the  houses  are  made  of  wood, 
their  fronts  are  elaborately  carved.  4fe^ 

India  was  the  first  of  all  countries  that  perfilcted  weaving,  sewing 
not  being   practised   until   after    the    Mohammedan   invasion.     The 
Greek  name  for  coUon  fetbrics,  sindon,  is  etymologically  the  same  as 
India  or  Sind.      The  word  chintz   is  from   the  Hindu  chhint,    or 
variegated,  while  calico  is  from  the  place  of  its  production,  Calicut.      In 
delicacy  of  texture,  in  purity  and  fastness  of  colour,  in  grace  of  design, 
Indian  cottons  may  still  hold  their  own  against  the  world — but  not  in 
cheapness.     The  Dacca  muslin,  once  so  famous,  one  pound  weight  of 
which  could  be  made  to  cover  250  miles,  is  now  superseded  by  the  cheap 
machine-made  goods  of  Europe  and  America ;   and  European  chintz 
now  takes  the  place  of  the  palampore,  a  kind  of  bed-cover  of  printed 
cotton,  for  which  Masulipatam  used  to  be  celebrated.     In  the  Punjab 
the   weaver's    trade    still    flourishes,    but    large    quantities    of     the 
cheaper  cottons  are  now  made  in  India  by  machinery.     Pure   silk 
fabrics,  striped,  checked,  and   figured   are   made   at   Lahore,    Agra, 
Benares,  Hyderabad  (Deccan),  and  Tanjore.     Gold  and  silver  brocaded 
silks,    called    kincobs,    are    made   *at    Benares,    Murshedabad,     and 
Ahmedabad.      The   printed    silks   which    are   worn   by   the    Parsi 
women  of  Bombay  are  a  speciality  of  Surat     Bhawulpore  is  noted  for 
its  damasked  silks.     Most  of  the  raw  silk  comes  from  China.      The 
Mohammedans  are  forbidden  by  their  religion  to  wear  pure  silk,  but 
may  wear  it  mixed  with  cotton.     Gold  and  silver  wire,  thread   lace, 
and  foil  are  made  all  over  the  country,  for  trimming  shoes  and  caps, 
for  stamping  muslins  and  chintzes,  for  embroidery  and  brocades.     With 
such  skill  is  the  silver  wire  prepared  that  two  shillings  worth  of  silver 
can  be  drawn  out  to  800  yards.     The  best  embroidery,  remarkable  for 
its  subdued  elegance  and  harmonious  combination  of  brilliant  coloixra, 
— -^es  from  Cashmere,  Lahore,  and  Delhi.     The  patterns  and  colourc 


IfUrod.  IRRIGATION  Ixix 

diversify  plane  suifaces  without  destroying  the  impression  of  flatness. 
Much  tinsel  is  used,  but  the  result  has  not  a  tinselly  appearance.  The 
famous  Cashmere  shawls  are  made  of  the  fine,  flossy,  silk-like  wool 
obtained  from  the  neck  and  underpart  of  the  body  of  the  goat  of 
Ladak.  Originally  a  speciality  of  Cashmere,  they  are  now  made 
in  the  Punjab  also,  especially  at  Amritsar.  They  have  greatly 
deteriorated  since  the  introduction  of  French  designs  and  magenta 
dyes.  The  finest  of  the  woollen  stuffs  called  patu  in  Eangra  and 
Cashmere,  is  made  of  camel's  hair.  A  rough  but  remarkably 
durable  patu  is  made  from  goat's  hair.  The  shawls  called  Rampur 
chadars  are  made  at  Ludhiana,  of  Rampur  wool.  The  intrinsic 
difference  between  Eastern  and  Western  decorative  art  is  revealed  in 
Oriental  carpetSj  where  the  angular  line  is  substituted  for  the  flowing, 
classical  "  line  of  beauty."  The  Oriental  carpet  is  also  more  artistically 
dyed,  and  is  decorated  according  to  the  true  principles  of  conventional 
design.  As  a  rule  the  pile  carpets  of  India  and  Persia  are  of  floral 
design,  while  those  of  Central  Asia,  Western  Afghanistan,  and 
Baludiistan  are  geometric.  In  Persia  and  India  the  source  of  the 
majority  of  the  patterns  is  the  tree  of  life,  shown  as  a  beautiful 
flowering  plant,  or  as  a  simple  sprig  of  flowers.  The  dari  is  a  carpet  of 
eotton  made  chiefly  in  Bengal  and  Northern  India ;  but  the  most 
common  cotton  carpet  is  the  shatrangi,  made  throughout  India,  but 
especially  at  Agra.  The  principal  patterns  are  stripes  of  blue  and 
'white,  and  red  and  white.  In  point  of  texture  and  workmanship  the 
rugs  from  Ellore,  Tai^ore,  and  Mysore  are  the  best.  Costly  velvet 
carpets  embroidered  with  gold  are  made  at  Benares  and  Murshedabad. 
The  carpets  of  Malabar  are  now  the  only  pile  woollen  carpets  made 
of  pure  Hindu  design.  Fine  carpets  are  made  at  Amritsar.  Central 
Asian  carpets  are  best  purchased  at  Peshawar. 

IRRIGATION 

The  history  of  irrigation  in  India  stretches  back  into  remote 
antiquity,  many  of  the  modem  works  being  founded  upon  old  native 
I  works  which  have  been  restored  and  extended.  The  storage  of  water 
in  tanks  is  very  common  in  Southern  India.  The  works  are  for  the 
most  part  of  native  origin,  but  much  has  been  done  by  the  British  in 
repairing  old  tanks  and  constructing  new  ones  in  Madras,  the  Bombay 
Deccan,  and  Ajmere.  In  many  places  the  natives  have  made  artiflcial 
kkes  with  dams,  which  are  often  of  great  architectural  beauty.  In 
tk  more  level  tracts  of  the  south  every  declivity  is  dammed  up  to 
gather  the  rain.  Innumerable  wells  cover  the  whole  country.  And 
it  is  very  usual  for  the  native  cultivator  to  make  his  own  tiny  irrigating 
•tream,  carrying  it  along  the  brows  of  mountains,  round  steep  declivities, 
and  across  yawning  gulfs  and  deep  valleys ;  his  primitive  aqueducts 
being  formed  of  stones  and  clay,  the  scooped-out  trunks  of  palm  trees 


Ixx  THE  MUTINT  India 

and  hollow  bamboofi.  To  lift  the  water  a  bucket  wheel  is  employed, 
worked  by  men,  oxen,  buffaloes,  or  elephants.  A  good  part  of  the 
Punjab  and  the  whole  of  Sind  would  be  scarcely  habitable  without 
irrigation  ;  and  it  is  practically  indispensable  also  in  the  south-east  of 
the  Madras  Presidency. 

The  greatest  British  works  have  been  in  canal  irrigation,  the  water 
being  drawn  directly  fipom  a  river  into  either  a  "perennial"  or  an 
"  inundation ''  canaL  The  perennial  canal  is  famished  with  permanent 
headworks  and  weirs,  and  is  capable  of  irrigating  large  tracts  through- 
out the  year,  independently  of  rainfall  An  example  is  the  Ganges 
Canal,  which  has  been  in  operation  since  1 854,  has  cost  Bx.  3,000,000, 
comprises  440  miles  of  main  canal,  and  2614  miles  of  distributaries, 
and  in  1895-96  supplied  water  to  759,297  acres.  In  one  place  it 
is  carried  over  a  river  920  feet  broad,  and  thence  for  nearly  3 
miles  along  the  top  of  an  embankment  30  feet  high.  The  Sirhind 
Canal,  completed  in.  1887,  is  even  lai^r.  These  two  canals,  for  size 
and  power,  are  without  any  rivals  outside  of  India.  The  inunda- 
tion canals  are  simply  earthen  channels  without  masonry  dams  or 
sluices,  and  are  supplied  with  water  by  the  annual  rise  of  the 
Indus  and  its  a£Q[uents  in  the  month  of  May.  Both  these  classes 
of  canals  take  off  from  the  larger  rivers,  which,  even  in  times  of 
drought,  can  be  depended  upon  for  an  unfailing  supply  of  water. 

There  are  great  differences  in  the  financial  results  of  the  works, 
due  to  the  variations  in  surface,  soil,  climate,  the  absence  or  presence* 
of  laige  rivers,  and  the  character  and  habits  of  the  people  ;  and  the 
methods  of  assessing  and  collecting  the  revenue  also  vary  considerably 
in  different  localities.  If  the  rainfall  is  plentiful  the  cultivator  will 
try  to  do  without  the  irrigation  water,  and  the  receipts  £eJL 

The  capital  outlay,  direct  and  indirect,  up  to  the  end  of  the  year 
1895-96,  was  Bx.  37,474,751  ;  the  gross  receipts  were  Bx.  2,706,418  ; 
the  working  expenses  Bx.  1,155,750  ;  the  net  receipts  Bx.  1,550,668  ; 
the  percentage  of  net  receipts  on  capital  outlay  was  4*1 ;  and  the  area 
irrigated,  with  14,000  miles  of  main  canals  and  26,000  miles  of  dis- 
tributaries— 40,000  miles  altogether — ^was  10,308,990  acres.  Besides 
this,  however,  it  is  calculated  that  something  like  20,000,000  acres 
are  irrigated  by  means  of  tanks,  weUs,  lakes,  and  the  smaller  native 
channels.  Probably  the  area  irrigated  by  one  means  or  another  in 
India  is  greater  than  in  the  whole  of  .the  rest  of  the  world. 

THE  MUTINY  OF  1867 

From  1764  to  1857  the  history  of  British  rule  in  India  is  marked 
by  frequent  mutinies  among  the  native  troops  or  sepoys.  Ever  since 
the  days  of  Dupleix  and  dive,  aepoys,  led  by  European  officers,  have 
been  the  main  instrument  for  European  aggression  in  India.      They 


Inirod,  the  mutiny  Ixxi 

have  hired  themselves  out  to  fight  against  their  own  countrymen  for 
the  sake  of  two  kinds  of  reward,  pay  and  prestige.  Whenever  their 
expectations  on  either  of  these  points  have  been  threatened  they  have 
been  ready  to  mutiny,  and  have  generally  found  a  religious  excuse  for 
their  disaffection.  The  first  serious  mutiny,  in  1764,  was  for  an 
increase  of  pay.  It  was  promptly  suppressed  by  Hector  Munro,  who 
refused  the  higher  pay,  and  ordered  the  twenty-four  ringleaders  to  be 
blown  from  guns.  There  was  a  more  extensive  rising  throughout 
Madras  in  1806.  It  began  at  Vellore,  where  the  British  officers  were 
murdered,  but  Gillespie  galloped  from  Arcot,  eight  miles  off,  and 
recaptured  the  fort,  killing  or  dispersing  the  mutineers.  On  this 
occasion  the  complaint  of  the  sepoys  was  that  orders  had  been  issued 
forbidding  the  use  of  earrings,  or  caste  marks,  or  beards,  and  that  the 
new  hat  had  a  leather  cockade  made  from  the  skin  either  of  the 
detested  pig,  or  of  the  holy  cow.  The  Mohammedan  princes  of  Mysore, 
who  had  been  dethroned  by  the  British,  lived  with  numerous 
attendants  in  the  fortress  of  Vellore.  They  told  the  sepoys  that  the 
new  regulations  were  intended  to  deprive  them  of  their  caste,  and 
force  them  to  become  Christians ;  and  the  report  was  spread  that  the 
British  power  had  been  extinguished  by  Napoleon.  The  mutinous 
spirit  had  extended  throughout  Madras  before  it  was  finally  quenched. 
The  Home  Government  declared  that  the  mutinies  were  due  to  the 
fear  of  being  Christianised,  to  the  residence  of  dethroned  princes  at 
Vellore,  to  the  annexations  of  Lord  Wellesley  which  had  shaken 
confidence  in  British  moderation  and  good  faith,  and  to  a  loss  of 
authority  by  British  officers  over  their  men.  The  analogy  between 
Vellore  in  1806,  and  Meerut  in  1857,  is  very  striking,  the  chief 
variation  being  that  the  sepoys  had  greater  causes  of  discontent  in 
1857,  and  that  at  Meerut  there  was  no  Colonel  Gillespie.  The 
religion  of  the  sepoys  seemed  to  them  to  be  in  greater  danger  than 
ever ;  the  capital  of  India,  Delhi,  was  the  home  of  the  dethroned 
descendant  of  the  MohEimmedan  Moguls  ;  Lord  Dalhousie's  annexations 
had  far  exceeded  those  of  Lord  Wellesley,  and  were  evidently  intended 
to  be  still  further  pursued  ;  the  discipline  of  native  regiments  was 
disturbed  by  the  encouragements  held  out  to  their  British  officers  to 
seek  employment  on  the  General  Staff ;  and  Eussia  in  the  Crimea  was 
supposed  to  have  destroyed  British  power  more  .  effectively  even  than 
Napoleon.  And  yet  Vellore  had  been  so  completely  forgotten,  that 
Sir  Henry  Lawrence  was  the  only  prominent  Englishman  in  India 
who  foresaw  the  Meerut  rising,  or  understood  what  it  meant  In  aU 
quarters  there  Was  touching  faith  in  the  loyalty  of  the  sepoys,  a  faith, 
in  the  case  of  the  British  officers  of  native  regiments,  that  was  only 
extinguished  by  the  hand  of  the  sepoy  assassin. 

The  eight  years  from  1848-56,  when  Lord  Dalhousie  was  Govemor- 
G^eral,  will  long  be  remembered  in  India.     They  form  a  period  of 


Ixxii  THE  MUTINY  India 

large  social  and  material  reforms,  and  are  also  particularly  remarkable 
for  British  annexations  of  native  territory.     After  a  severe  struggle 
with  the  warlike  Sikhs  the  Punjab  was  conquered  and  annexed  in 
1849.     Lower  Burma  followed  in  1862,  and  Oudh,  without  conquest^ 
in  1856.     By  a  new  doctrine,  the  territory  of  a  native  prince  who  died 
without  an  heir  of  the  body,  was  treated  as  lapsed  to  the  British,  an 
adopted  heir   not   being   recognised.     Under   this   rule   we   became 
possessed  of  the  principalities  of  Sattarah,  Jhansi,  Nagpore,  and  others. 
It  was  also  decided  that  the  stipends  which  had  been  paid  to  those  native 
princes  who  had  been  deprived  of  their  territories  in  former  years, 
should  not  be  continued  to  their  successors.     Among  others  of  less 
importance,  the  Nana  Sahib,  the  heir  of  the  Peishwa  of  Poona,  the 
nominal  head  of  the  Marathas,  was  refused  the  pension  of  £80,000 
per   annum   which  the  Peishwa  had  enjoyed  during  his  life.     The* 
descendant  of  the  Moguls,  Bahadur  Shah,  was  informed  that  his  son 
would  not  be  allowed  to  live  at  Delhi,  or  to  retain  the  regal  title. 
And  when  the  territory  of  the  loyal  king  of  Oudh  was  annexed, 
owing  to  his  persistent  misgovernment,  the  surplus  revenues  of  the 
State,  after   payment   of  a   substantial   pension   to   the   king,   were 
gathered  into  the  coffers  of  the  British  Government.     All  this  looked 
like  a  policy  of   unjust   and   high-handed   aggression.     The   natives 
understand  annexation  after  conquest,  and  the  conquered  provinces 
of    Punjab     and    Lower    Burma    remained    loyal    throughout    the 
Mutiny.     But  now  every  native  prince  feared  for  his  domiuion,  as 
the  British  seemed  determined  to  absorb  all  their  territory,  either 
by  conquest,  or  on  the  plea  of  misgovernment,  or  by  the  new  rule 
excluding  adopted  heirs;    and  this   policy  of  greed   seemed    to    be 
further  evidenced  by  the  resumption  of  pensions,  and  the  confiscation 
of  the  surplus  revenue  of  Oudh.     Of  the  chiefs  directly  affected  the 
Mogul  and  the  king  of  Oudh  were  Mohammedans,  a   race    which 
considers  itself  as  the  natural  ruler  of  India  and  likely  to  profit  by  the 
ejection  of  the  British ;  the  Ranee  of  Jhansi  and  the  Nana  Sahib  were 
Maratha   Hindus,  and    the  Marathas  had  practically  conquered    the 
Mohammedans  when  the  British  intervened.     The  leaders  of  the  two 
most  warlike  and  aggressive  races  in  India,  and  of  the  two  religions, 
complained  of  harsh  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the  British.     They 
determined,  if  possible,  to  rouse  the  sepoys,  a  portion  of  whom  were 
already  in  an  insubordinate  condition. 

In  1856  one  of  the  first  innovations  of  the  new  Governor-General, 
Lord  Canning,  was  the  General  Service  Enlistment  Act,  by  which  all 
future  recruits  in  Bengal  were  made  liable  for  service  outside  the 
Company's  dominions  without  extra  pay.  This  had  always  been  the 
rule  with  the  sepoys  of  the  Madras  and  Bombay  armies.  But  the 
Bengal  sepoy  was  a  man  of  high  caste,  and  entitled  to  privileges. 
He  was  now  threatened  with  the  loss  of  his  caste  by  being  taken 


Introd.  THE  MUTINY  Ixxiii 

over  the  sea  (the  "  black  water  ")  to  serve  in  Burma.  He  considered 
that  he  alone  had  conquered  India  for  the  Company,  and  believed 
that  he  was  now  to  be  used  for  further  conquests,  without  any  increase 
of  pay,  in  regions  far  from  his  home.  Moreover,  the  new  regulations 
would  confine  all  future  enlistment  to  low  caste  men,  and  thus 
deprive  the  Bengalee  of  his  monopoly  of  military  service.  His  pay, 
his  prestige,  and  his  caste  were  thus  attacked.  The  agitators  im- 
pressed upon  his  superstitious  and  credulous  mind,  that  the  railways 
and  telegraphs  which  had  recently  been  introduced,  were  a  kind  of 
magic  designed  to  oppress  him  ;  and  that  the  new  rule,  made  by  Lord 
Canning,  which  permitted  the  re-marriage  of  Hindu  widows,  and  the 
new  zeal  for  education,  were  deliberate  attacks  upon  his  religion. 
The  sepoys  knew  also  that  while  the  British  troops  had  been  reduced 
by  drafts  sent  to  the  Crimea,  and  to  Persia,  the  native  army  had  been 
increased  for  the  purpose  of  garrisoning  the  recently  acquired  territories, 
the  British  force  being  now  only  40,000  to  240,000  sepoys.  The 
prestige  of  England  had  been  shaken  by  the  disasters  of  the  Afghan  war  ; 
it  was  believed  that  the  British  had  been  beaten  in  the  Crimea;  and  an 
old  prophecy  was  revived  which  foretold  that  the  Company's  reign 
would  end  in  1857,  one  hundred  years  after  the  battle  of  Plassey. 
At  this  critical  moment,  with  Mogul  and  Maratha,  Mohammedan  and 
Hindu,  Princes  violently  aroused  against  the  British ;  with  an  army 
of  high  caste  soldiers  farmed  concerning  their  pay,  their  privileges, 
and  their  religion  ;  with  the  British  force  reduced  to  insignificance, 
there  occurred  the  famous  cartridge  incident  A  new  type  of  rifle 
having  been  issued  to  the  sepoys,  the  hideous  blunder  was  perpetrated 
of  smearing  the  cartridge  with  a  composition  of  the  fat  of  the  cow,  the 
sacred  animal  of  the  Hindus.  On  complaints  being  made  British 
officers  honestly,  but  ignorantly,  declared  that  no  cow's  fat  had  been 
used,  an  answer  which  the  sepoys  knew  to  be  false,  and  which  only 
doubled  their  suspicions  of  British  motives.  Here,  then,  was  the 
positive,  clear  proof  of  the  sinister  intentions  of  the  British. 

The  first  regiment  to  mutiny  was  the  34th  Native  Infantry  at 
Barrackpore,  near  Calcutta,  in  February  1857,  which  was  followed  in 
March  by  the  19th  at  Berhampore,  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 
Both  these  regiments  were  disbanded,  and  the  84  th  (British)  was 
brought  over  from  Burma  to  Barrackpore.  But  nothing  else  was 
done.  ^'  Allahabad  and  Delhi,  the  two  chief  fortresses,  arsenals,  and 
strategical  positions  of  the  North  Western  Provinces,  were  still 
without  the  protection  of  British  garrisons,  and  no  steps,  such  as  the 
collection  of  supplies  and  carriage,  had  been  taken  anywhere  for  the 
prompt  movement  or  mobilisation  of  British  troops ''  (McLeod  Innes). 
On  the  3rd  May  the  7th  Oudh  Irregulars  mutinied  at  Lucknow,  and 
were  disarmed  by  Sir  Henry  Lawrence.  Then  on  the  10th  came  the 
great  outbreak  at  Meerut,  forty  miles  from  Delhi     The  sepoys  after 


Ixxiv  THE  MUTINY  In 


liberating  some  of  their  comrades,  who  had  been  imprisoned 
insubordination,  made  off  for  Delhi ;  arrived  there  they  declared 
Mogul  as  the  ruler  of  India. 

Probably  this  forward  move  of  the  Mogul  party  aroused  the  jealo 
of  the  other  rival  conspirators.     For  three  weeks  there  was  no  ot 
mutiny.     But  when  the  natives  found  that  days  and  weeks  pae  ^ 
without  any  punishment  being  inflicted  upon  them,  they  began 
think  that  the  British  power  was  really  at  an  end.    On  the  30th  1 
the  71st  Native  Infantry  mutinied  at  Lucknow,  and  from  this  c 
there  was  a  general  rising.     In  some  cases  British  officers,  women,  i 
children  were  all  murdered  ;  in  others  the  men  alone  were  killed, ; 
in  still  others  they  were  all  spared,  and  even  escorted  by  the  mutiny 
out   of  harm's  way.     As   each   regiment   rose,  it   made   for  I^€  i^" 
Oawnpore,  or  Lucknow,  which  became  the  centres  of  the  confl: 
Delhi,  the  Home  of  Asia,  was  in  the  hands  of  the  rebels ;  at  Cawnp  ^. 
Sir  Hugh  Wheeler  with  a  mere  handful  of  soldiers  was  surrouii 
by  overwhelming  numbers ;  and  at  Lucknow,  a  garrison  undcir 
Henry  Lawrence  was  closely  invested.     Belief  could  come  from  tl 
quarters.      Lord    Canning   was   at    Calcutta  ;   General    Anson,  i 
Commander-in-Chief,   at    Simla ;  and   Sir   John   Lawrence   in 
Punjab. 

Between  Calcutta  and  Meerut,  a  distance  of  900  miles,  til  ^ 
were  only  three  British  regiments, — ^the  14th  at  Dinapore,  the 
at  Lucknow,  and  a  Company's  Begiment,  the  3rd  Europeans,  at 
L&rd  Cannmg  made  energetic  efforts  to  obtain  reinforcements. 
Madras  Fusiliers,  under  Colonel  Neill,  arrived  at  Calcutta  oni 
23rd  May ;  the  64th  and  70th  from  Persia  early  in  June ;  i 
other  British  troops  from  Burma,  Ceylon,  and  Singapore,  and  I  J^^J^ 
sepoys  from  Madras  soon  followed.  A  force  which  was  on  its ;  r^SjL! 
to  China  was,  with  the  consent  of  Lord  Elgin,  diverted  to  Calcif 
several  regiments  were  despatched  from  the  Cape  Colony,  and  ui  ^ 
requests  for  additional  troops  were  sent  to  England.  The  meais  r 
transport  were  very  indifferent.  The  railway  from  Calcutta " 
been  completed  only  as  far  as  Banigunj,  a  distance  of  120  mi  y 
and  there  was  difficulty  in  procuring  the  bullock  carts  and  Jn  (^ 
vehicles  which  had  to  be  employed.     So  it  happened  that  the  ti  ^ 

from  Calcutta  were  only  just  in  time  to  secure  Benares  and  AUaha   s ^ 

and  it  was  not  till  the  7th  July  that  General  Havelock  was  abl  J^ 
advance  from  Allahabad  with  an  inadequate  force  of   2000   i  ^>S^ 
General  Anson,  on  receiving  the  Meerut  news  at  Simla,  at  once  collj     j-v^ 
the  British  and  Gurkha  regiments  which  were  in  the  hills,  and  b| 
to  move  on  Delhi,  but  his  progress  was  slow  owing  to  lack  of  trami 

^  A  more  detailed  account  of  the  events  at  these  important  places 
found  on  pp.  183,  261,  and  239.     The  sequence  of  events  will  best  be 
consulting  the  chronology,  p.  Ixzziii. 


W>«m-^i 


BUTION  OF 


ti 


REFElLEHCr  JfOTE 

Bmrmti  TftooPS  coloohed  fffo 

ii/A7t¥£  TROOPS  COLOt/BED  BLUE 

pAVALRY      JtE&lJMENT        «■    DETACHMENT 
•?^  ^    |«FANTRV     RE61MENT  *   MUTTNIED 

NFAHTRY     {H>Mf*ANY  ^    DFfiARMEO 

«  AIL  WAV 


t  Street.,  i 


.MUH,  =}^Ai,olamn,3tCojabg 


Ifdrod,  THE  MUTINY  IxxV 

and  commissariat.  The  important  arsenals  at  Philloor  and  Ferozepur 
were  secured.  On  the  27th  May  Anson  died  of  cholera.  The  attack 
upon  Delhi  did  not  begin  until  the  8th  June,  when  Sir  H.  Barnard, 
with  the  troops  collected  by  Anson,  amounting  to  3800  men,  defeated 
^a  rebel  army  of  30,000  men  at  Badli-ka-serai,  and  thus  obtained 
possession  ot  the  famous  ridge  overlooking  the  walls  of  Delhi  Barnard 
died  of  cholera  on  the  5th  July,  and  was  succeeded  by  Beed,  who  re- 
signed on  the  17  th  owing  to  ill-health,  handing  oyer  the  command  to 
Archdale  Wilson.  The  natives  had  purposely  timed  their  rising  for 
the  begiiKning  of  the  hot  weather,  knowing  how  debilitating  active 
operations  are  at  that  period  to  all  Europeans.  For  some  time  the 
British,  while  affecting  to  invest  Delhi,  were  themselves  hotly  be- 
sieged on  the  ridge.  In  the  Punjab  Sir  John  Lawrence  was  ably  sup- 
ported by  such  men  as  Nicholson,  Edwardes,  Chamberlain,  and  Mont- 
gomery, who  energetically  suppressed,  by  disarmament,  the  local 
mutinies  or  threats  of  mutiny  at  Peshawar,  Nowshera,  Mooltan, 
Meean  Meer,  and  Ferozepur.  A  movable  column  was  formed  under 
^  command  of  Nicholson,  to  suppress  any  further  risings  in  the 
Punjab,  and  then  to  march  on  Delhi  l^Le  value  of  Nicholson's 
courage  and  decision  can  hardly  be  over-estimated.  The  Punjab  was 
in  a  restless  condition.  With  his  small  force,  moving  from  place  to 
place,  disarming  or  dispersing  the  mutineers,  he  kept  that  province 
from  rising.  But  it  was  not  until  the  14th  August,  three  months 
after  the  Meerut  outbreak,  that  he  was  able  to  leave  the  Punjab  and 
join  the  British  force  at  Delhi.  No  move  could  be  made  there 
until,  on  the  6th  September,  the  siege  guns  arrived  from  Ferozepur, 
which  opened  on  the  walls  on  the  11th,  and  prepared  the  way  for  the 
storming  of  the  works  on  the  14th,  and  the  final  capture  of  Delhi  on 
the  20th.  It  came  not  a  day  too  soon.  Sir  John  Lawrence  had 
emptied  his  province  of  British  troops,  sending  every  possible  man  to 
Delhi ;  and  the  Sikhs  and  Punjabees,  who  had  hitherto  been  loyal, 
were  becoming  agitated  with  the  idea  that  the  British  would  never 
regain  their  position.  If  these  troops  had  turned  against  us  we  should 
have  had  to  begin  again  the  conquest  of  India. 

Meanwhile,  the  British  between  Calcutta  and  Delhi  were  in  sore 
straits.  At  Agra  the  sepoys  were  disarmed  on  the  31st  May,  but 
although  the  Maharaja  Scindia,  of  Gwalior,  was  himself  loyal,  his 
fine  body  of  disciplined  troops  only  awaited  an  opportimity  to  march 
on  A^ra.  At  Cawnpore-  Sir  H.  Wheelei^s  small  garrison  capitulated 
on  the  26th  June,  and  were  massacred  next  day,  but  the  women  and 
children  were  made  prisoners.  At  Lucknow  a  small  British  force 
was  holding  out  against  enormous  numbers  of  the  enemy. 

Ha/odock  advanced  to  their  assistance  with  1400  British  and 
600  Sikh  troops,  leaving  Allahabad  on  the  7th  July.  The  line 
between    Calcutta    and    Allahabad   was    disturbed,    the    communi- 


Ixxvi  THas  MUTINT  India 

cations  threatened,  and  Havelock  obtained  no  substantial  rein- 
forcements till  tbe  middle  of  September.  When  he  had  marched 
for  five  days  from  Allahabad  he  defeated  a  large  force  of  mutineers 
and  Maral^as  at  Fatehpore,  and  fought  two  other  successful  battles 
on  the  16th  of  July  at  Aong  and  Pandoo  Nuddee.  On  the  evening  of 
that  day,  being  then  22  miles  from  Cawnpore,  he  learned  that  the 
British  women  and  children  of  Wheeler's  garrison  were  still  alive,  and 
tired  as  his  men  were,  he  marched  them  14  miles  that  night,  defeated 
the  Nana  Sahib  next  day  in  three  separate  actions,  and  rested  his 
weary  troops  on  the  outskirts  of  Cawnpore  on  the  evening  of  the  16th. 
The  heat  was  so  intense  that  many  of  his  men  died  from  sunstroke  or 
exhaustion.  The  women  and  children  were  murdered  by  the  orders 
of  the  Nana  on  the  15th,  when  Havelock  had  started  on  his  last 
desperate  effort  to  save  them.  On  the  17th  he  occupied  Cawnpore. 
On  the  20th,  leaving  300  men  there  under  Neill,  he  began  the 
crossing  of  the  Qanges  with  1600  men.  On  the  29th  he  defeated  the 
rebels  at  Oonao  and  Busherut  Gunge,  but  finding  immense  numbers 
of  mutineers  still  between  him  and  Lucknow,  while  his  own  force  had 
been  reduced  to  850  effectives,  he  had  no  alternative  but  to  retire 
to  Cawnpore.  On  the  4th  August  he  marched  out  of  Cawnpore  a 
second  time  with  1400  men;  on  the  5th  he  again  defeated  the  rebels 
at  Busherut  Gunge,  but  his  losses  from  disease,  as  well  as  battle,  had 
been  so  great  that  it  was  hopeless  to  proceed  further,  and  he  fell  back 
once  more,  reaching  Cawnpore  on  the  13th.  On  the  16th  he  attacked 
and  defeated  4000  sepoys  at  Bithoor.  He  had  now  only  1000  effectives. 
In  his  front  towards  Lucknow  were  some  30,000  rebels  ;  at  Furruck- 
abad  were  probably  as  many  more ;  he  was  threatened  on  both  flanks ; 
and  had  to  face  on  the  south  the  Gwalior  contingent,  and  many 
other  smaller  bodies.  Yet  he  courageously  determined  to  keep  his 
position  at  Cawnpore  instead  of  falling  back  upon  Allahabad.  The 
relief  of  Lucknow  was,  of  course,  out  of  the  question  until  reinforce- 
ments had  arrived.  These  continued  to  dribble  in  during  the  next 
month,  but  there  was  mischievous  delay  between  Calcutta  and 
Allahabad,  some  6000  men,  who  might  have  been  sent  on  to  Have- 
lock, being  detained  to  suppress  local  disturbances.  On  the  16th 
September  Sir  James  Outram  arrived  to  supersede  Havelock.  In 
the  most  generous  and  chivalrous  manner,  he  gave  up  the  command 
to  Havelock,  and  thus  left  the  honour  of  relieving  Lucknow  to 
the  man  who  had  already  made  such  able  and  gallant  efforts  to  that 
end.  At  length,  on  the  19th  September,  Havelock  crossed  the  Ganges 
with  3000  men.  He  defeated  the  rebels  at  Mungalwar  on  the  2l8t, 
and  on  the  23rd,  24th,  and  25th,  was  gradually  fighting  his  way  in 
to  Lucknow  ;  and  finally  effected  a  junction  with  the  garrison  late  in 
the  evening  of  the  25th,  though  with  a  loss  of  700  out  of  his  3000 
men.     Outram  then  took  command  of  the  old  and  the  new  garrisonB 


Irdrod.  the  mutiny  Ixxvii 

at  Lucknow.  Delhi  having  fallen  to  the  British  between  the  14th 
and  20th,  the  mutineers  from  that  place  were  arriving  at  Lucknow, 
and  Otttram  found  it  impossible  to  fight  his  way  out  taking  with  him 
the  women,  children,  and  sick  of  the  old  garrison.  He  remained  on 
the  defensive,  closely  invested,  until  the  final  relief  of  Lucknow  two 
months  later. 

The  dangerous  period  of  the  mutiny  ended  with  the  capture  of 
Delhi  and  the  reinforcement  of  Lucknow  towards  the  end  of  September. 
From  this  time  the  British  position  was  assured  by  the  arrival  of  rein- 
forcements from  England.  The  first  of  them  was  Sir  GoUn  Gamphell, 
the  newly -appointed  Commander -in -Chief  in  India,  who  reached 
Calcutta  on  the  17  th  August.  As  reinforcements  were  now  steadily 
arriving,  his  first  care  was  to  arrange  that  regular  batches  should  be 
forwarded  with  all  speed.  Then  he  started  for  the  seat  of  war,  and 
reached  Cawnpore  early  in  November.  Leaving  1000  men  under 
Windham  at  Cawnpore,  he  advanced  on  Lucknow  with  5000,  peached 
the  Alum  Bagh  on  the  12th  ;  left  a  garrison  there  ;  marched  upon  the 
rebels  with  4200  men  on  the  16th ;  and  effected  a  junction  with  Outram's 
beleaguered  force  on  the  17th,  though  with  a  loss  of  nearly  500  men. 
The  original  Lucknow  garrison,  who  had  been  closely  invested  since 
the  2nd  July,  a  period  of  more  than  four  months,  were  thus  finally 
relieved.  But  Sir  Colin  found  the  rebels  so  numerous,  and  the 
difficulty  of  escorting  the  women,  children,  and  sick  safely  out  of 
Lucknow  so  great,  that  he  felt  himself  unable  to  hold  Lucknow  in 
addition,  and  accordingly  evacuated  it,  leaving  Outram  at  the  Alum 
Bagh  with  4000  men  to  maintain  the  appearance  of  British  authority, 
Havelock  died  of  dysentery  on  the  24th  November.  When  Sir 
Colin  reached  Cawnpore  with  his  precious  human  freight,  he  found 
that  Windham  had  been  defeated  by  a  Maratha  named  Tantia  Topi, 
and  had  been  gradually  forced  out  of  the  city  of  Cawnpore  into  his 
entrenchments  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges.  On  the  3rd  December 
the  families  and  sick  were  sent  on  to  Allahabad,  and  then  Sir  Colin 
attacked  Tantia  Topi,  captured  his  artillery,  and  dispersed  his  army. 
Beyond  clearing  the  Doab,  the  country  between .  the  Ganges  and 
Jumna,  little  was  done  in  the  next  three  months  except  the  collection 
of  reinforcements.  On  the  2nd  March  Sir  Colin  joined  Outram  at  the 
Alum  Bagh  with  a  force  which  the  constant  streams  from  Calcutta 
had  now  raised  to  19,000  men  with  120  guns.  To  this  was  shortly 
added  a  brigade  under  (Jeneral  Franks,  and  a  contingent  of  Nepalese 
under  Jung  Bahadur,  which  brought  the  army  up  to  the  respectable 
total  of  31,000  men  and  164  guns.  The  mutineers  in  Lucknow 
numbered  90,000  trained  men,  and  a  large  force  of  irregulars,  and 
they  had  employed  their  respite  in  erecting  three  strong  lines  of  defences 
around  their  position.  Sir  Colin's  attack  began  on  the  7  th  March, 
and  he  finally  drove  off  the  enemy  and  captured  Lucknow  on  the  15th. 


Ixxviii  THE  KUTINT  India 

On  the  20th  Lord  Canning  issued  the  Confiscation  Proclamation, 
by  which  the  estates  of  all  the  important  chiefs  in  Oudh  were  con- 
fiscated. Most  of  them,  although  certainly  not  loyal,  had  abstained 
from  active  participation  in  the  revolt  They  now  rose,  and  were 
joined  by  other  princes  who  feared  that  they  would  be  treated  in  like 
manner,  and  that  they  had  nothing  to  lose,  but  everything  to  gain  by 
opposing  the  BritisL  Thus  it  happened  that  although  the  sepoys 
were  dispersed,  only  small  bands  of  them  still  remaining  in  the  field, 
new  enemies  sprang  up  who  were  not  subdued  until  the  end  of  the 
year  1868,  by  which  time  there  were  100,000  British  troops  in  India. 
Of  the  various  British  brigades  which  operated  in  different  parts  of  the 
country,  the  most  important  was  that  under  Sir  Hugh  Bose  (afterwards 
Lord  Strathnaim)  in  Central  India.  On  the  8th  January  1858,  Bose 
left  Mhow  with  a  Bombay  force,  and  marching  northwards  captured  the 
fortresses  of  Ratgarh  on  the  28  th,  and  Garrakota  on  the  13th  February. 
After  several  successful  battles  he  arrived  before  the  walls  of  Jhansi  on 
the  21st  March.  On  the  1st  April  he  totally  defeated  Tantia  Topi 
who  was  marching  to  the  relief  of  Jhansi  with  22,000  men ;  and  he 
storxned  and  captured  Jhansi  on  the  4th.  The  Ranee  fled  with  her 
defeated  troops  towards  Ealpee  where  Tantia  Topi  was  collecting 
another  army.  Bose  marched  out  of*  Jhansi  on  the  25  th  April, 
defeated  Tantia  Topi  on  the  6th  May,  and  captured  Ealpee  on  the 
23rd.  The  Banee  then  fled  to  QwaJior,  where  she  was  joined  by 
the  Maharaja's  troops,  and  thus  obtained  possession  of  the  strong 
fortress.  In  spite  of  the  great  heat  Bose  marched  upon  Gwalior,  and 
captured  it  on  the  24th.  The  Banee,  dressed  as  a  mau,  was  killed  in 
battle.  On  the  21st  Sir  Bobert  Napier  (afterwards  Lord  Napier  of 
Magdala)  attacked  and  defeated  Tantia  Topi  at  AHpore  Jowra.  From 
this  date  the  wily  Maratha  was  incessantly  hunted  throughout  Central 
India ;  he  had  covered  3000  miles  in  his  flight  before  he  was  betrayed 
on  the  7th  April  1859,  ten  months  later.  He  was  tried,  and  hanged. 
Meanwhile  the  rebellion  in  Oudh  and  the  North  West  Provinces, 
which  had  now  assumed  the  character  of  a  popular  rising,  had  been 
gradually  suppressed ;  and  the  Nana  had  been  driven  into  the  Nepal 
jungle,  where  he  died  of  fever. 

The  prophet  who  had  announced  that  the  Company's  rule  would 
end  in  1857,  a  hundred  years  after  the  battle  of  Plassey,  was  not  far 
out  in  his  reckoning.  On  the  1st  November  1858,  at  a  grand  darbar 
at  Allahabad,  Lord  Canning  announced  that  the  Company's  possessions 
in  India  were  transferred  to  the  British  Crown.  Since  the  mutiny 
there  has  been  a  great  change  in  British  policy.  The  British 
troops,  in  1857  one -sixth  of  the  native,  are  now  more  than  one 
hal£  All  the  strong  fortresses,  magazines,  and  arsenals  are  garrisoned 
by  British  soldiers ;  there  are  no  batteries  of  native  artillery 
of  any  importance ;  and  the  modem  preparations  for  transport^  com- 


Introd,  REMABEABLE  EVENTS  Ixxiz 

misaariat,  and  mobilisation,  combined  with  the  railway  system,  ensure 
the  speedy  movement  of  British  troops  on  any  given  spot  The  high 
caste  sepoy  has  been  to  a  considerable  extent  replaced  by  a  less  exact- 
ing  soldier,  and  the  danger  of  a  groundless  religious  panic  thereby 
lessened.  The  right  of  adoption,  for  which  many  of  the  chiefs  fought, 
has  been  conceded.  The  policy  of  annexation  in  India  has  been 
abandoned.  The  pay  of  the  sepoy  has  been  raised,  whether  on  service 
in  his  own  country  or  in  foreign  districts.  And  the  British  officers  of 
native  regiments  are  no  longer  encouraged  to  leave  their  men  for  the 
attractions  of  civil  or  staff  employment  Both  races  have  learned  their 
lesson.  The  best  proof  is  that  whereas  formerly  sepoy  mutinies  were 
of  frequent  occurrence,  no  single  example  has  since  occurred  to  revive 
memories  of  the  great  tragedy  of  1857. 


REMARKABLE  EVENTS  CONNECTING  INDIA  WITH 
EUROPE 

DATES 

Vasco  da  Gama  sails  to  Calicut  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope      .        .  1498 

The  Portuguese  Viceroy,  Albuquerque,  captures  Goa   ....  1510 
Bassein,  Salsette,  and  Bombay  ceded  to  the  Portuguese  by  the  Raja 

ofGuzerat 1534 

Thomas  Stephens,  of  New  College,  Oxford,  becomes  rector  of  the 

Jesuits'  coUege  at  Salsette 1579 

Charter  from  Queen  Elizabeth  to  **The  Governor  and  Company  of 

Merchants  of  London  trading  to  the  East  Indies  "  .        .        .        .  1601 

The  Dutch  East  India  Company  formed 1602 

The  first  French  East  India  Company  formed 1604 

The  Dutch  occupy  Pulicat  (near  Madras) 1609 

The  Mogul,  Jehangir,  issues  a  proclamation  permitting  the  English  to 

estabUsh  factories  at  Surat,  Ahmedabad,  Cambay,  and  Gogo    .        .  1611 

The  &8t  Danish  East  India  Company  formed 1612 

Captain  Best  defeats  the  Portuguese  s<juadron  at  Swally      . .       .        .  1612 
Sir  Tliomas  Roe,  ambassador  to  Jehangir,  obtains  favourable  concessions 

for  English  trade    .        .         .        .         .                          ...         .  1615 

An  English  factory  founded  at  Armagaon 1626 

An  English  factory  founded  at  Masulipatam 1682 

The  English  Company  allowed  to  trade  in  Bengal        ....  1634 

Fort  St.  George  founded  at  Madras  by  Francis  Day     ....  1689 
Gabriel  Broughton,  surgeon  of  the  Hopewdl,  obtains  from  the  Mogul, 

Shah  Jehan,    exclusive  privileges  of  trading  in    Bengal  for  the 

English  Company,  as  a  reward  for  his  professional  services  to  the 

Mo^ul  and  the  Raja  of  Bengal 1645 

The  Dutch  take  Negapatam  from  the  Portuguese         ....  1660 
Bombay  ceded  to  England  by  the  Portuguese  as  part  of  the  Infanta 

Catherina's  dower  on  her  marriage  with  Charles  II.          ...  1661 

French  settlement  established  at  Pondicherry 1674 

A  new  English  Company  formed,  with  a  capital  of  £2,000,000    ,        .1698 

The  old  Company  buys  the  site  of  Calcutta 1700 

Death  of  the  Mogul,  Anrangzeb,  and  decline  of  the  Mogul  power        .  1707 
Through  the  arbitration  of  Lord  Godolphin  the  two  English  Companies 

are  amalgamated     «... 1709 


/ 

/ 

X  REMARKABIiB  EVENTS  India 

DATXS 

<j  Austrian  Emperor  Charles  VI.  grants  a  charter  to  the  Ostend 

Company 1723 

England  and  France  at  war  in  Europe 1743 

A  French  fleet  under  La  Bourdonnais  captures  Madras        .  1746 

An  English  fleet  under  Admiral  Boscawen  besieges  Fondicherry,  but  is 
repulsed.      The  treaty  of  Aix-la-Chapelle  restores  Madras  to  the 

English  .         • 1748 

Duplets  places  nominees  of  his  own  on  the  throne  at  Hyderabad  and 
Aroot.      The  English  support  Muhammad  Ali  for  Arcot.      War 
between  the  English  and  French  in  the  Camatic      ....     1749 
Capture  and  subsequent  defence  of  Arcot  by  dive        ....     1751 

The  French  capitulate  at  Trichinopoly 1752 

Clive  returns  to  England 1753 

Dupleix  superseded.    Treaty  of  peace  between  the  English  and  French 

signed  at  Pondicherry 1754 

Clive  returns  to  India 1755 

Suraj-ud-daulah,  Nawab  of  Bengal,  captures  Calcutta.  20th  June. 
— ^The  tragedy  of  the  Black  Hole.  The  English  prisoners,  146  in 
number,  are  confined  in  a  room  18  feet  square,  with  only  two  small 
windows.  Next  morning  only  23  remain  alive  ....  1756 
Recapture  of  Calcutta  by  Clive.  23rd  June. — Battle  of  Plassey.  Clive 
with  1000  Europeans,  2000  sepoys,  and  8  guns,  defeats  Suraj-ud- 
daulah  and  35,000  men,  15,000  horse,  and  50  guns.     War  with 

France  renewed  in  the  Camatic 1757 

Lally  arrives  with  a  French  fleet.  He  takes  Arcot.  Clive  is  appointed 
the  first  Governor  of  the  Company's  settlements  in  Bengal       .        .     1758 

Clive  defeats  the  Dutch .        .     1759 

Eyre  Coote  totally  defeats  Lally  at  the  battle  of  Wandiwash        .        .     1759 
AJrcot  taken  by  the  English.     Clive  sails  for  England  .        .         .     1760 

Pondicherry  capitulates  to  the  English.     Fall  of  the  French  power  in 

the  Deccan 1761 

Pondicherry  restored  to  the  French  by  the  treaty  of  Paris.  The  ^t 
sepoy  mutiny  in  the  English  camp  is  suppressed  by  Hector  Munro. 
Munro  defeats  the  Nawab  of  Bengal  at  tlxe  decisive  battle  of  Buxar. 

Dupleix  dies  in  poverty  in  Paris 1764 

Lord  Clive  arrives  at  Calcutta  as  Governor-General.  The  revenues  of 
Bengal,  Behar,  and  Orissa  granted  to  the  Company  by  the  Mogul, 

ShahAlamlL 1765 

The  Northern  Circars  ceded  to  the  English.      Clive  prohibits  the 
servants  of  the  Company  from  engaging  in  private  trade  or  accept- 
ing presents,  and  increases  their  salaries.     Lally  is  executed  at  Paris     1766 
Clive  leaves  India.     The  Nizam  and  Haidar  Ali  attack  the  English     .     1767 

The  Nizam  cedes  the  Camatic 1768 

Terrible  famine  in  Bengal 1770 

Warren  Hastings,  Governor-General 1772 

Supreme  Court  established  at  Calcutta.      The  Dutch  expelled  from 

Negapatam  by  the  English 1773 

The  Rohilla  chiefs  defeated  by  the  English.  Salsette  and  Bassein 
taken  by  the  Bombay  troops.    Clive  commits  suicide  in  England     .     1774 

The  Nawab  of  Gudh  cedes  Benares 1775 

Chandernagore,  Masulipatam,  Karikal,  and  Pondicherry  taken  from 

the  French • 1777 

The  first  Maratha  War  begins.     General  Goddard's  celebrated  march 

across  India.     Convention  of  Wargaon 1779 

Haidar  Ali  takes  Arcot.  Captain  Popham  captures  Gwalior.  Warren 
Hastings  wounds  Sir  Philip  Francis  f  Junius)  in  a  duel     .         .         .     1780 


Introd.  REMARKABLE  EVENTS  Ixxxi 

]>ATE8 

Sir  Eyre  Ooote  defeats  Haidar  Ali  at  Porto  Novo.  The  English  capture 
the  Dutch  Dorts  of  Pulicat  and  Sadras 1781 

Death  of  Haidar  AIL    The  French  assist  Tipu,  his  son        .        .        .     1782 

The  captured  French  possessions  restored  to  them  by  the  treaty  of 
Versailles 1783 

Peace  with  Tipu ;  the  conquests  on  both  sides  restored.  Pitt's  Bill 
establishes  a  Board  of  Control 1784 

13th  February. — ^Warren  Hastings  impeached  by  the  House  of  Commons, 
before  the  House  of  Lords,  for  corruption  and  oppression         .        .     1788 

Tipu  ravages  part  of  Travancore 1790 

Lord  Comwallis  leads  the  British  army  against  Tipu  in  person.  Takes 
Bangalore.    Is  joined  by  Nizam  Ali  and  the  Peishwa       .        .        .     1791 

The  alHes  storm  the  redoubts  at  Seringapatam.  Tipu  yields  one-half 
of  his  dominions,  to  be  divided  between  the  Nizam,  the  Peishwa, 
and  the  English  ;  and  agrees  to  pay  £3,000,000    ....        1792 

Regular  Civil  Courts  established  in  Bengal.     The  revenue  settlement 
of  Lord  Comwallis  in  Bengal,  by  which  the  Zamindars,  who  had 
been  the  revenue  agents  of  the  Mogul,  were  declared  to  be  the  land- 
owners, is  made  permanent.    Pondicherry  taken  from  the  French   . 
for  the  third  time 1798 

23rd  ApriL — Warren  Hastings  is  acquitted  after  a  trial  lasting  seven 
years.     The  Company  grant  him  £4000  a  year  for  life      .        .  1796 

The  Dutch  settlements  in  Ceylon,  and  the  Cape,  taken       .        .        .     1796 

Seringapatam  stormed,  and  Tipu  slain.  His  dominions  divided  be- 
tween the  Nizam  and  the  English 1799 

The  Nizam  gives  up  his  share  of  Mysore  in  consideration  of  English 
protection 1800 

The  Nawab  of  the  Carnatio  cedes  Nellore,  North  and  South  Arcot, 
Trichinopoly,  and  Tinnevelly.  The  Nawab- Wazir  of  Oudh  cedes 
Rohilkund  and  the  Doab.     deylon  made  a  Crown  Colony        .        .     1801 

Treaty  of  Bassein,  by  which  the  foreign  relations  of  the  Peishwa  are 
supervised  by  the  British 1802 

Maratha  War.  Battle  of  Assaye,  23rd  September  ;  Wellesley  (after- 
wards the  Duke  of  Wellington)  with  4600  men  defeats  60,000  Marathas 
under  Sindhia  and  the  Raja  of  Nagpur.  Lake  defeats  the  Marathas 
at  Aligarh,  and  captures  Delhi  and  Agn.  Cession  of  the  greater  part 
of  what  are  now  the  North- West  ^evinces.  The  Mogul  king  of 
Delhi  becomes  the  pensioner  of  the  British.     Conquest  of  Cuttack  .     1803 

Konson's  advance  into  Holkar's  territory,  and  disastrous  retreat. 

Capture  of  Indore.     Holkar's  attack  on  Delhi  defeated        .        .        .     1804 

Lake  abandons  the  siege  of  Bhurtpore.     Holkar  cedes  Bundelkund      .     1805 

Mutiny  of  sepoys  at  Vellore.     Suppressed  by  Colonel  Gillespie    ,        .     1806 

Rise  of  Runjeet  Singh  in  the  Punjab 1807 

War  declared  against  Nepal.     Repulse  of  the  British 

Ochterlony  defeats  the  Ghurkas  at  Maloun 

Treaty  of  Segowlie.     Cession  of  hill  stations 

Operations  against  the  Pindharis,  bands  of  freebooters. 
Battle  of  Khirki:  defeat  of  the  Peishwa  and  capture  of  Poona. 
Battle  of  Sitabuldi:   defeat  of  the  R^ja  of  Nagpur.      Battle  of 
Mehidpore  :  defeat  of  Holkar.     Cession  of  Ajmere  by  Sindhia         .     1817 

Defence  of  Korygaum  by  800  sepoys,  with  ten  British  oflBoers,  against 
25,000  Marathas.  Holkar  cedes  territory.  The  dominions  of  the 
Peishwa  annexed 1818 

Burmese  War ....     1824 

Gaptore  of  Bhurtpore,  hitherto  deemed  impregnable.     Treaty  of  Yan- 
aaboo ;  oesiion  oy  the  Burmese  of  Assam,  Arraoan,  and  Tenasserim     1826 
[India]  / 


1814 
1815 
1816 
Maratha  War. 


Ixxxii  REMARRABLB  EVENTS  India 

DATES 

Sati,  or  widow  -  burning,  declared  "culpable  homicide"  by  Lord 
William  Bcntinck 1829 

Renewal  of  the  Company's  charter,  on  condition  that  the  Company 
abandons  its  monopoly  of  the  China  trade,  and  acknowledges  the 
right  of  Europeans  to  reside  in  India  and  acquire  land     .         .         .1833 

Annexation  of  Coorg 1834 

Lord  William  Bentinok  leaves  India,  having  abolished  sati,  suppressed 
(with  the  aid  of  Sir  W.  Sleeman)  Thuggee,  reformed  the  judicial 
administration,  restored  the  use  of  the  vernacular  language  in  all 
courts,  extended  education,  effected  the  revenue  settlement  of  the 
North- West  Provinces  (with  the  aid  of  Robert  Bird),  given  the 
natiyes  a  share  in  the  government,  restored  the  finances,  and  pro- 
moted steam  communication  vid  Suez 1885 

Efforts  to  eradicate  female  infanticide.  The  freedom  of  the  Press 
established.     Ranjit  Singh  seizes  Peshawur 1835 

Dost  Muhammad,  Ameer  of  Afghanistan,  receives  a  Russian  mission. 
Lord  Auckland  declares  war 1838 

Capture  of  Kandahar  and  Chazni,  and  occupation  of  Kabul.  Shah 
Shuja  made  Ameer.     Death  of  Ranjit  Singh.     Capture  of  Aden       .      1839 

2nd  November. — Murder  of  Sir  A.  Burnes  at  Kabul.     23rd  December. 

—Murder  of  Sir  W.  Macnaghten 1841 

Retreat  of  British  army  of  4500  men  (the  renmants  of  a  force  of  15,000) 
from  Kabul,  of  whom  one  only,  Dr.  Brydon,  reaches  Jellallabad 
alive.  Pollock  forces  the  Khyber  and  joins  Sale's  garrison  at 
Jellallabad.  Murder  of  Shah  Shuja  at  Kabul  and  accession  of 
Akbar  Khan.  Pollock  defeats  the  Afghans  at  Tezeen,  and  re- 
occupies  Kabul.  Lady  Sale  and  the  Kabul  prisoners  ransomed. 
Return  of  the  British  army  to  India 1842 

Sir  Charles  Napier  defeats  the  Sind  armies  at  Miani  and  Hyderabad. 
Annexation  of  Sind 1843 

First  Sikh  War.  Gough  fights  an  indecisive  action  at  Moodki.  Assault 
on  the  Sikh  entrenchment  at  Ferozeshah,  which  is  captured  on  the 
second  day  after  an  obstinate  struggle.  The  Sikhs  lose  74  guns, 
and  the  British  2400  killed  and  wounded 1845 

Sir  Henry  Smith  defeats  the  Sikhs  at  Aliwal.  Gough  fights  a 
desperate  battle  at  Sobraon,  which  ends  in  the  rout  of  the  Sikh  army. 
Jaramu  and  Kashmir  sold  to  Gholab  Singh  for  £750,000 .        .         .     1846 

Murder  of  Vans  Agnew  and  Anderson  at  Mooltan.  Second  Sikh  War. 
Unsuccessful  siege  of  Mooltan . 1848 

Mooltan  stormed  by  General  Wlush.  Gough  fights  an  indecisive  action 
at  Chilianwallah ;  both  armies  retire ;  British  loss  of  2400  men,  4 
guns,  and  3  colours.  Gough  defeats  the  Sikhs  at  Gujrat ;  they  lay 
down  their  arms.  Annexation  of  the  Punjab.  Annexation  of 
Sattarah  by  lapse 1849 

Burmese  War.     Annexation  of  Pegu 1862 

Annexation  of  Jhansi  by  lapse 1863 

Annexation  of  Nagpur  by  lapse.  Competitive  system  for  civil  appoint- 
ments introduced    .        . 1864 

7th  February. — Annexation  of  Oudh,  owing  to  persistent  misrule. 
Lord  Dalhousie  leaves  India,  having  opened  the  first  railway  for 
traflSc,  formed  a  department  of  public  works,  introduced  cheap 
postage,  constructed  telegraphs,  opened  the  Ganges  Canal,  and 
established  an  education  department  with  the  three  universities  of 
Cidcutta,  Madras,  and  Bombay.  29th  February. — ^Arrival  of  Lord 
Canning.     The  General  Service  Enlistment  Act      ....     1856 

famaptjee  Jeejeebhoy,  a  philanthropic  Pars!,  made  a  Baronet.     The 


Introd,  REMARKABLE  EVENTS  Ixxxili 

DATSe 

Mutiny,  February.  Mutinies  at  Barraokpore  and  Berhampore. 
The  sepoys  refuse  to  use  the  new  cartridges  which  were  greased  with 
the  fat  of  beef  and  pork.  3rd  May.  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  suppresses 
a  mutiny  of  the  7tn  Oudh  Irregulars  at  Lucknow.  9th  May.  At 
Meerut  eijghty-five  sepoys  refuse  to  use  even  the  old  cartridges,  and 
are  imprisoned  in  irons.  10th  May.  Rising  of  the  sepoys  at 
Meerut ;  they  release  their  comrades  from  jail,  burn  the  cantonment, 
and  make  for  Delhi.  11th  May.  The  mutineers  reach  Delhi ; 
murder  the  Europeans  ;  and  proclaim  the  Mogul  as  Ruler  of  India. 
30th  May.  Mutiny  in  the  cantonment  near  Lucknow.  4th  June. 
Mutinies  at  Benares  and  Allahabad,  and  slaughter  of  Europeans. 
5th  June.  Mutiny  at  Jhansi.  Massacre  of  the  Europeans  who  had 
surrendered  on  a  promise  of  their  lives.  Mutiny  at  Cawnpore.  6th 
June.  Attack  upon  Sir  Hugh  Wheeler  in  the  entrenchment  at 
Cawnpore.  8th  June.  Battle  of  Badli-ka-serai,  near  Delhi.  Defeat 
of  the  rebels  and  occcupation  of  the  Ridge.  11th  June.  Arrival  of 
Neill  with  the  Madras  Fusiliers  at  Allahabad.  28rd  June.  This 
being  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Plassey,  the  mutineers  make  a 
determined  assault  on  the  Ridge  at  Delhi.  26th  June.  Capitula- 
tion of  Sir  H.  "Wheeler  at  Cawnpore  on  a  promise  from  the  Nana 
Sahib  that  the  lives  of  all  will  be  spared.  27th  June.  Massacre  of 
the  males  of  the  garrison  at  Cawnpore  by  order  of  the  Nana.  2nd 
July.  Investment  of  the  Residency  buildings  at  Lucknow.  Sir  H. 
Lawrence  mortally  wounded  by  a  shell.  7th  July.  Havelock 
advances  from  Allahabad  with  2000  men.  16th  July.  Murder  of  the 
British  women  and  children  at  Cawnpore  by  order  of  the  Nana. 
17th  July.  Havelock  retakes  Cawnpore.  14tii  August.  Arrival  of 
Nicholson's  column  at  the  Ridge,  Delhi.  6th  September.  Battering 
train  amves  at  the  Ridge.  14th  to  20th  September.  Delhi  stormed 
with  a  loss  to  the  British  of  1200  men.  Nicholson  mortally 
wounded.  25th  September.  Havelock  and  Outram  fight  their  way 
into  Lucknow,  and  are  shut  in.  Death  of  Neill.  17th  November. 
Sir  Colin  Campbell  relieves  Lucknow.  22nd  November.  Lucknow 
evacuated.  24th  November.  Death  of  Havelock.  27th  November. 
Windham  driven  into  his  entrenchments  by  the  Gwalior  rebels,  who 
plunder  Cawnpore.     6th  December.  Sir  Colin  Campbell  defeats  the 

Gwalior  rebels 1857 

Sir  Colin  Campbell  reconquers  Lucknow.  Sir  Hugh  Rose  captures 
Jhansi  and  Gwalior.  Sir  Robert  Napier  (Lord  Napier  of  Magdala) 
defeats  Tantia  Topi.  Loyalty  of  Dost  Muhammad,  Ameer  of  Afghani- 
stan, and  Jung  Bahadar  (of  Nepal)  throughout  the  Mutiny.  1st 
November.  The  Government  of  India  transferred  from  the  Company 
to  the  British  Crown,  represented  by  a  Viceroy        ....     1858 

The  income  tax  imposed .     1860 

Legislative  Councils  established  in  the  three  Presidencies     .        ,        ,     1861 
Death  from  famine  of  one-fourth  of  the  population  of  Orissa         .        .     1866 

Samarkand  taken  by  the  Russians 1868 

Assassination  of  Lord  Mayo,  the  Viceroy,  while  on  a  visit  to  the  con- 
vict settlement  in  the  Andaman  Islands 1872 

The  Russians,  under  General  Kauffmann,  take  Khiva  ....     1873 
Famine  in  Behar.  Government  expenditure  of  £7,000,000    .        .        .     1874 

Visit  of  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales 1875-6 

Famine.  Government  expenditure  of  £8,000,000.     Increase  of  5,000,000 

deaths.  British  subsCTiption  of  half  a  million  sterling  .  .  .1876-8 
Ist  January. — Hr  M.  the  Queen  proclaimed  Empress  of  India  at  Delhi  1877 
Shcre  All,  Ameer  of  Afghanistan,  receives  a  Russian  but  not  a  British 


Izxxiv  BSMARKABLB  BTBNTB  India 

DATEB 

mission.  Three  British  coltunns  move  on  Afghanistan.  Captiire  of 
Ali  Musjid.  Roberts  storms  the  Peiwar  EotiJ.  Flight  of  Shere  Ali 
to  Turkestan,  and  accession  of  his  son  Yaknb  Khan.  Despatch  of 
native  troops  to  Malta 1878 

Death  of  Shere  Ali.  Treaty  of  Gundamok.  Sir  Louis  Gavaguari 
is  received  at  Kabul  as  British  representative,  but  murdei-ea  six 
weeks  after  his  arrival.  Roberts  advances ;  carries  the  heights  of 
Charasiab,  takes  Sherpur,  and  enters  Kabul.  Abdication  of  Yakub 
Khan 1879 

Ayub  Khan  defeats  General  Burrows  at  Maiwand,  with  a  loss  to  the 
British  of  1000  men  killed  out  of  2500  engaged.  Brilliant  march 
by  Roberts  with  10,000  men  to  the  relief  of  Kandahar,  813  miles 
in  twenty -one  days.  Roberts  completely  routs  Ayub  Khan.  The 
British  nominate  Abddr  Rahman  as  Ameer.  The  British  forces  re- 
turn to  India 1880 

Skobeleff  defeats  the  Tekke  Turkomans  and  captures  Geok  Teppe        .     1881 

Further  advance  of  the  Russians.  Death  of  skobeleff.  Lord  Ripon 
extends  local  self-government  with  some  powers  of  election.  Aboli- 
tion of  customs  duties  on  all  articles  except  intoxicants  and  arms. 
A  contingent  of  the  native  army  is  sent  to  Egypt    ....     1882 

The  Ilbert  Bill  proposes  to  '*  invest  native  magistrates  in  the  interior 
with  powers  over  European  British  subjects."  Bitter  race  animosities 
aroused.  Compromise  adopted  by  which  Europeans  are  entitled  to 
a  jury  of  which  one-half  at  least  are  of  their  own  race      .  .     1883 

Occupation  of  Merv  and  Sarakhs  by  the  Russians       .  .         .     1884 

A.  Russian  force  attacks  the  Afghans  at  Fanjdeh.  The  Ameer  meets 
Lord  Dufferin  at  Rawul  Pindi,  and  is  given  money  and  munitions 
of  war 1885 

King  Thebau,  of  Mandalay,  having  made  overtures  to  France  and 
refused  to  receive  a  British  envoy,  is  deposed.  Annexation  of  Upper 
Burma.  The  National  Congress  of  natives  commences  its  annual 
meetings.  Delimitation  of  the  northern  boundary  of  Afghanistan  by 
an  Anglo-Russian  Commission  ,,.,..     1886 

16th  February.  The  Jubilee  of  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  Empress 
celebrated  with  great  manifestations  of  native  loyalty      .         .         .     1887 

Formation  of  Imperial  Service  Troops  in  Native  States  1888 

Completion  of  the  Afghan  Frontier  Railway  and  Defences   .  1889 

Murder  of  British  officers  at  Manipur.  Capture  and  execution  of  the 
leaders.     Visit  of  the  Cesarewitch,  now  tne  Czar      ....     1891 

The  Indian  Councils  Act  introduces  an  elective  element  into  the 
Legislative  Councils •        .     1892 

The  Mints  closed  to  the  free  coinage  of  silver  ;  the  value  of  the  rupee 
fixed,  for  Government  purposes,  at  Is.  4d.  Compensation  given  to 
officials  on  account  of  depreciation  of  rupee 1898 

Visit  of  Sirdar  Nasrullah  Khan,  second  son  of  the  Ameer,  to  England. 
Final  delimitation  of  the  Pamir  Boundary.  Chitral  Campaign. 
Storming  of  the  Malakhand  Pass^  and  relief  of  the  British  force  in 
Chitral.    Imposition  of  import  duties 1895 

Cholera  and  plague  at  Bombay.  The  boundaries  of  Beluchistan  laid 
down 1896 

Plague  and  Famine.  British  subscription  of  more  than  half  a  million 
sterling.  Severe  earthquake  in  Bengal  and  Assam.  Insubordination 
of  tribes  on  N.W.  frontier.     Punitive  expedition     ....     1897 


TfUrod,  *  INDIAN  TERMS  IzZXY 


SOME   NATIVE   TERMS   USED   IN   THIS   BOOK 

[A.  signiilefl  Arabic ;  H.  Hlndilst&ni  or  Hindi ;  E.  Kanarese ;  Mai.  Malay&lam ;  M.  Mardtihi ; 
My.  Malay ;  P.  Persiaii ;  &  Sanscrit ;  Tel.  Teluga ;  Tor.  Turkish ;  T.  Tamil.] 

AmIb  (Ameer),  A.  ''commander,"  a  title  of  prinoes  and  nobles,  as  the  Amirs 

ofSindh. 
ksA.  (Anna),  H.  the  16th  part  of  a  rupee. 
BabtSl,  a.  title  Aoaoia  arabica  tree. 

BAHisuB,  P.  ''brave,"  "ohiTalrio,''  a  title  of  honour  amon^  Mohammedans. 
BiTNOALOW,  H.  (bangla)  a  thatched  house ;  the  name  usually  applied  to  the 

houses  of  the  English  in  India,  and  to  the  rest-houses  for  travellers  built 

bv  Government  on  the  public  roads. 
BAoiIf  trough  of  water,  at  a  spring,  hence  a  well. 
BiLzAB,  P.  a  market  or  marketplace  ;  a  street  of  shops. 
Beoam  (Begum),  Tur.  a  lady  of  rank  ;  a  queen  or  princess. 
BhJLtA  (Batta),  H.  additional  allowance  to  public  servants  or  soldiers  em- 
ployed on  special  duty. 
BrAhman,  S.  a  Hindu  of  the  first,  or  priestly  caste. 
BuppHiST,  S.  a  worshij^r  of  Buddh,  or  Sakya  Muni,  who  died  b.o.  543. 
Caste,  class ;  sect ;  corruption  of  the  Portuguese  ectsta  or  race. 
Catamaran,  T.  kaifu,  "to  bind/'  maramf  "a  tree,"  a  log-raft  on  which 

the  natives  of  Madras  paddle  through  the  surf. 
ChIwadi,  TeL  a  native  rest-house  for  travellers. 
CHOTTLTkiB,  an  English  corruption  of  Chawadi,  q,v, 
Chunam,  S.  an  English  corruption  of  H.  cMmd,  from  S.  cMmah,  lime,  a  plaster  oi 

mortar  sometimes  made  of  shells  of  a  remarkable  whiteness  and  brilliance. 
CoMPOUKD,  probably  My.  an  enclosure.     A  corruption  of  the  Malay  word 

JSjafnpang. 
Daqhopa,  Daqoba,  S.  deh,  "  the  body,"  gup,  "  to  hide,"  a  circular  structure 

inside  Buddhistic  cave  temples,  supposed  to  contain  the  ashes  or  relics  of 

Buddha,  and  occupying  the  plaice  of  our  altars. 
Dak,  Post   Dak-Bun^ow  (or  Muzafari  Bungalow)  a  Best-house  for  travellers. 
DabbAb  (Durbar),  P.  a  royal  oourt ;  an  audience  or  levee. 
DHARAMsAiii.,  S.  dharma,  ** justice,"  "piety,"  a,nd  sMld,  " a  hall,"  a  place 

of  accommodation  for  travellers  and  pilgrims. 
DiwAN,  P.  '*  aroyal  court,"  "a  minister,"  especially  the  chief  financial  minister. 
FakIb,  a.  "poor,"  a  reUgious  man,  who  has  taken  the  vow  of  poverty. 
GhXt  (GhauQ,  S.  ghaffa,  "a  landing-place,"   "steps  on  a  river  side,"  a 

moTintain  pass ;  any  narrow  passage. 
G0FD2LA,  H.  the  ^te  of  a  Pagoda. 
GsAKTHi,  Sanscrit  written  in  the  Tamil  character. 
GumAshtah,  p.  an  agent 
CrTTMBAZ,  a  cupola ;  a  dome. 

EamhAl,  a.  a  bearer  of  a  palki,  in  Bombay  an  indoor  servant 
Harim  (Haram),  a  sanctuary ;  ladies'  apartments. 

Hayaldab,  H.  an  officer  in  native  regiments  corresponding  to  our  sergeant. 
ftiriLKAH  (Hookah),  A.  a  native  pipe. 

HirxtrB,  A.  the  royal  presence,  a  respectful  term  applied  to  high  officials. 
JioiB,  P.  a  tenure  by  which  the  public  revenues  of  an  estate  or  district  were 

granted  to  an  individual,  with  powers  to  collect  them,  and  administer 

the  general  affairs  of  the  estate. 
Jim'asj^,  A.  a  native  officer  next  to  a  Siibahdar,  and  corresponding  to  our 

lieatenant 
Jooi,  a  Hindn  devotee,  as  Fakir  is  a  Mohammedan. 


Ixxxvi  INDIAN  TBRMs  India 

Eacheri  or  EaohhXri,  H.M.  a  court  or  office  for  public  business. 

Khan,  A.  a  Mohammedan  title  of  nobility  answering  to  oui*  "lord." 

Khas,  special  Diwan-i-Kha8=Hall  of  special  audience. 

KUBBAH,  A.  a  tomb. 

KiTLf  (Cooly),  T.  and  Tur.  a  day  labourer. 

tiAKH  (Lac),  S.  the  number  100,000. 

MXlI,  S.  a  garland. 

Man  (Maund),  H.  a  weight,  varying  in  different  parts  of  India.     In  Bombay 

it  is  25  lbs. ;  in  Bengal,  since  1883,  80  lbs. 
Mandapam,  S.  an  open  pavilion  or  porch  in  front  of  a  temple. 
Massulah,  T.  a  boat  sewed  together,  used  for  crossing  the  surf  at  Madras. 
MiHBAB,  the  recess  in  the  wall  of  a  mosque — on  the  side  nearest  Mecca — to 

which  Mohammedans  turn  at  prayer. 
MiMBAR,  the  pulpit  in  a  mosque. 
Monsoon,  A.  a  corruption  of  the  A.  mausim^  **a  season;'*  applied  now  to 

the  periodical  rains  in  India  which  fall  during  the  S.W.  Monsoon. 
MttnshI  (Moonshee),  A.  a  writer  ;  a  secretary  ;  a  teacher  of  languages. 
MUNSIF,  A.  a  native  judge. 
NAiK,  S.  an  officer  in  native  armies  corresponding  to  a  corporal ;  an  ancient 

title. 
Ni.ucH  (Nach),  S.  a  dance ;  an  exhibition  of  dancing-girls. 
Nattbat  khana,  a.  the  guard-room  ;  the  chamber  over  a  gateway,  where  a 

band  is  stationed. 
NAwAb,  a.  this  word  means  lit.  ** deputies,"  being  the  plural  of  nd'ib,  "a 

deputy."    It  is  now  a  title  of  governors  and  other  hign  officials. 
NizAm,  a.  an  arranger ;  an  administrator  ;  a  title  of  the  prince  whose  capital 

is  Hyderabad  in  the  Deccan. 
Nulla,* properly  Nala,  "watercourse." 
Paooda,  p.  an  Anglican  corruption  of  the  P.  word  hvi-kadahj  '*an  idol 

temple";  also  a  coin  =  3i  rupees,  called  by  the  natives  Mn,  but  de- 
riving its  appellation  of  pagoda  from  its  showing  a  temple  on  one  face ; 

there  are  other  derivations. 
PAl-al,  T.  the  priests  of  the  Tuda  tribe,  lit.  "milkmen." 
PAleoAr  (Polygar),  T.  Tel.  a  shareholder ;  a  landed  proprietor.     A  title  of 

persons  in  the  Madras  Presidency  who  correspond  to  Zamindars  in  other 

parts  of  India. 
Palanquben,  H.  an  Anglican  corruption  of  the  word  jwfZK,  a  vehicle  in  which 

persons  of  rank  are  carried  on  men's  shoulders. 
PAn,  S.  the  leaf  of  the  betel  creeper.     Pan-supari  is  ar6ca  nut  rolled  in  thin 

leaf  for  chewing. 
PArsis,  p.  a  sect  wno  worship  the  Deity  under  the  emblem  fire. 
Pb-kovil,  T.  '*  devil-temple,     a  hut  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  spirits 

of  dead  men. 
Peons,  from  the  Portuguese  pecu)^  Spanish  peon,  but  sometimes  thought  an 

Anglican  corruption  of  the  H.  vtoidi  piyddah,  "footman." 
PeshkArs,  F.  an  agent.     In  Bengal,  the  native  officer  under  a  judge,  next  to 

the  SarisMaddr  in  rank. 
PeshwA,  p.  the  prime  ministers  of  the  Rajas  of  Satara  ;  Brahmans  who  after- 
wards became  the  supreme  chiefs  of  the  Maratha  nation. 
PhatbmAr,  M.  lit,  "a  letter  carrier,"  a  fast-sailing  vessel  common  on  the  W. 

coast  of  India. 
Phins,  T.  the  Tuda  name  for  the  stone  circles  on  the  Nilgiri  Hills. 
PiOE,  H.  a  corruption  of  the  word  paisd,  a  copper  coin,  of  which  64  go  to  a 

rupee. 
PiR,  P.  old,  a  Mohammedan  saint. 
]^t/   fl  «  Tiind^kiiiff  or  prince. 

"ft  of  a  K^i^i  ^  queeii  or  princess. 


Tntrod. 


HINDU    WORDS 


Ixxxvii 


Rath,  S.  a  cbariot. 

BisAJiAHdAb,  a.  a  native  captain  of  a  troop  of  horse. 

Rtot,  a.  an  Anglican  corruption  of  the  A.  word  r*aiyat,  a  subject,  a  peasant. 

Sads  AnfN,  A.  a  native  judge. 

Sadr  'AdAlat,  a.  formerly  the  Supreme  Court  of  Justice  in  India  for  trying 

appeals. 
SIhib,  a.  lord  ;  a  title  applied  to  English  gentlemen  in  India. 
SarAi,  a  rest-house  for  travellers ;  a  caravansarai. 
Sati  (Suttee),  S.  the  burning  of  a  widow  with  her  deceased  husband. 
ShAh,  p.  a  king  ;  a  title  usually  applied  to  the  King  of  Persia. 
ShanIes,  T.  a  tribe  in  Tinnevelly  and  the  extreme  S.  of  India,  who  are  palm- 
tree  climbers  by  profession. 
Shankh,  S.  a  shell ;  the  large  shells  which  are  blown  as  horns  by  the  Hindfis 

during  religious  ceremonies. 
Shola,  T.  a  patch  of  jungle,  a  wooded  dell. 
SipAhI  (Sepoy),  P.  a  native  soldier,  one  of  a  sipdh  or  army. 
S^basdAh,  a.  a  governor  of  a  province ;  a  native  military  officer  corresponding 

to  a  oaptain. 
Tahzil,  a  division  of  Zilla  (see  below),  equivalent  to  Taluk. 
Tahsildar,  a.  a  native  collector  of  revenue,  who  is  also  a  magistrate. 
Taj,  P.  a  crown. 

Taluk,  or  more  properly  to'aWw^«A,  a  district ;  a  division  of  a  province. 
TappAl,  H.  in  Bombay  the  nost ;  delivery  of  letters  ;  a  relay  of  horses. 
Tatti,  M.  matting ;  a  mat  shade. 
Teppa  Kulam,  South  India,  a  tank  surrounded  by  steps  with  usually  a 

temple  in  the  centre. 
TiTDAS,  T.  a  remarkable  tribe  on  the  Nlgiri  Hills. 

VAman  (or  Waman)  S.  the  6th  incarnation  of  Vishnu,  in  the  shape  of  a  dwarf. 
.  Vazir,  a.  a  prime  miuister. 
VihAra,  S.  a  cell,  an  apartment  in  a  monastery  or  cave. 
VimInah,  S.  a  sacred  vehicle  or  shrine. 
ZamindAr,  p.  a  landed  proprietor,  a  person  who  receives  a  percentage  of 

Government  rents. 
ZiATt.AT    -A    8.  burial~nlace 
Zil'a  (Zniah),  A.  a  province  or  tract,  constituting  the  jurisdiction  of  a  circuit 

judge. 

A  Few  Hindu  Words 


Enqlish. 

One 

Two 

Three 

Four 

Five 

Six 

Seven 


Nine 

Ten 

Eleven 

Twelve 

Thirteen 

Fourteen 

Fifteen 

Sixteen 


Hindu. 

Ek 

Do 

Tin 

Char 

Pdnch 

Chhal. 

Sat 

Ath 

Nau 

Das 

Igarah 

Barah 

Terah 

Chaudah 

Pandrah 

Solah 


English. 

Hindu. 

Seventeen 

Satrah 

Eighteen 

Athdrah 

Nineteen 

Uiiis 

Twenty 

Bis 

Twenty-one 

Ikis 

Twenl7-t\vo 

Bais 

Twenly-three 

Teis 

Twenly-four 

Chaubis 

Twenty-five 

Pachis 

Twenly-six 

Chhabbis 

Twenty-seven 

Satd'is 

Twenty-eight 

Atha'fs 

Twenty-nine 

Untis 

Thirty 

Tis 

Thirty-one 

Iktis 

Thirty-two 

Battis 

Izzxviii 

Enolibb. 

Thirty-three 

Thirty-fonr 

Thirty-five 

Thirty-aix 

Thirty-seyen 

Thirty-eight 

Thirty-nine 

Forty 

Forty-one 

Forty-two 

Forty-three 

Forty-fonr 

Forty-five 

Forty-six 

Forty-seven 

Forty-eight 

Foriy-nine 

Fifty 

Fifty-one 

Fifty-two 

Fifty-three 

Fifty-fonr 

Fifty-five 

Fifty-six 

Fifty-seven 

Fifty-eight 

Fifty-nine 

Six^ 

Sixty-one 

Sixty-two 

Sixty-three 

Sixty-four 

Sixty-five 

Sixty-six 

Sixty-seven 

Sixty-eight 

Sixty-nine 

Seventy 

Seventy-one 

Seventy-two 

Seventy-three 

Seventy-four 

Seventy-five 

Seventy-six 

Seventy-seven 

Seventy-eight 

Seventy-nine 

Eighty 

Eighty-one 

Eighty-two 

Eighty-three 

Eighty-four 

Eighly-five 


Hnmv  WORDS 

IndM 

Hindu. 

Enqlibh. 

Hindu. 

Tet(8 

Eighty-six 

Chhi&sf 

ChAutis 

Eighly-seven 

Satibi 

Paintfs 

Eighty-eight 

Athdsf 

Chhattfs 

Eighty-nine 

Nku^ 

Samt(8 

Ninety 

Nauwe 

Athtls 

Nine^-one 

Ikinawe 

VnchHiB 

Ninety-two 

B4nawe 

Chalfs 

Ninely-three 

TirAnawe 

IktAlis 

Ninety-four 

Chaurdnawe 

Be'^ 

Ninety-five 

Pachinawe 

Tet411s 

Ninety-six 

ChivAnawe 
Satanawe 

Ohau*^Uis 

Ninety-seven 

Paint&lis 

Ninety-eight 

Athanawe 

ChhiyAlis 

Ninety-nine 

Nminawe 

Saintilis 

A  hundred 

Sau 

Athtdlls 

Two  hundred 

Do  sau 

XJnchAs 

Three  hundred 

Tfnsau 

Pachds 

Four  hundred 

Chirsau 

Ikiwan 

Five  hundred 

Pdnch  sau 

Biwan 

Six  hundred 

Chhah  sau 

Tirpan 

Seven  hundred 

Sdtsau 

Chauwan 

Eight  hundred 

Athsan 

Paohpan 

Nine  hundred 

Nau  sau 

Chhapan 

A  thousand 

Hazdr 

Satawan 

Ten  thousand 

Dashazdr 

Athawan 

A  hundred  thou- 

Ukh 

Uiisath 

sand 

SAth' 

A  million 

Das  Ukh 

Ik^th 

Ten  millions 

Kror 

Bdsath 

A  quarter 
A  half 

P4o 

Tirsath 

£au 

Chausath 

Three-quarters 
One  and  a  quarter 

PaonA,  tin  pdo^ 

PainsAth 

Tiwd 

Chhiy^ath 

One  and  a  half 

Derh 
P&one  do 

Satsath 

One  and  three- 

Athstha 

quarters 

Unhattar 

Two  and  a  quarter 

Sawddo 

Sattar 

Two  and  a  half 

ArUi 

Ikhattar 

Two  and  three- 

P4one  tin 

Bahattar 

quarters 

Tihattar 

Three  and  a 

Sawdtfn 

Chauhattar 

quarter 

Pachhattar 

Three  and  a  half 

Sdirhetfn 

Chhihattar 

Three  and  three- 

Pdone  char 

Sathattar 

quarters 

Athhattar 

Four  and  a  quarter  Sawa  chdr 

Uidsi 

Four  and  a  half 

S4rhe  char 

Assi 

Four  and  three- 

P4one  p&nch 

Ikdsf 

quarters 
A  third 

Be'&si 

Tfsrdhissan 

Tirdsi 

Two-thirds 

Dotisrd'liiassh 

Chaurdsf 

A  fifth 

P&nchwdn  h'i'ssah 

Panchisl 

A  sixth 

Chhathan  higsnh 

1  A  quarter  leas  than,  pdon$;  a  half  more  than,  tirht. 


Introd.  INDIAN  coiNAGB  Ixxxix 


Ekolish. 

A  seyenth 
An  eighth 
A  tenth 

Months, 

January 

February 

March 

'April 

May 

'Jane 

July 

August 

September 

October 


INDIAN  GOINAOB 

Hindu. 

English. 

Hindu. 

Sdtwdn  hissah 

November 

Kirtik 

Athwdn  hissah 

December 

AgbftTi 

Daswdn  hissah 

Days. 

Bdr. 

Mahine,^ 

Sunday 

EtwAr 

Monday 

Sombdr 

Pus 

Tuesday 

Mangal 

Md^h 

Wednesday 

Budh 

Baisakh 

Thursday 

Brih 

Friday 
Saturday 

Juma 

Sanichra 

Jeth 

Asarh 

East 

Piirab 

Sdwan 

West 

Pachhim 

^hddon 

North 

Uttar 

Asan 

South 

Dakhin 

Indian  Coinage 
SUver  Coins — 

The  BuFEE  (sixteen  annas)  is  assumed  to  be  equal  to  28.,  but  its 
value  in  gold  has  sunk  as  low  as  Is.  2^d. 

Half  Rxtpeb  =  eight  annas. 

Quarter  Rupee  =  four  annas. 

One  Eighth  of  a  Rupee  =^  two  annas. 

Copper  Coins — 

One  Anna  =  four  pice  =  twelve  pie. 
Half  Anna  =  two  pice  =  six  pie. 
Quarter  Anna  =  one  pice  =  three  pie. 

The  pollowino  Abbreviations  are  used  in  the  Routes  oivbn  in 
this  Book. 


T^  »  j  Dak  Bungalow,  a  rest- 

\     house  for  travellers. 

div.  Division  of  the  army. 

E.I.  C.   East  India  Company, 

E.     East. 

n. Feet. 

E. Hotel 

in.     Inch. 

I.  Left  hand. 

June Junction. 

m. Mile. 

N. North. 

P Page. 


p,  0 Post-office. 

r.  I.  b River  left  bank. 

r.  b Right  bank. 

IL Refreshment' 'Room. 

Ji.ir. Rest-house. 

rly Railway. 

rs Rupees. 

Jioy.  As.  Soc.  Royal  Asiatic  Society. 

r.  <Ss  rt Right  hand. 

8ta Station. 

S, South. 

W.  West. 

yds. Yards. 


3^  This  sign  in  the  text  appended  to  a  name  indicates  that  further  informa- 
tion relating  to  the  subject  is  to  be  found  in  the  Iitdex  and  Directory  at  the 
end. 


1  The  Indian  months  begin  about  the  15th  of  the  English  month ;  thus  Ptlis  is  tb« 
latter  half  of  January  and  the  first  half  of  February,  and  so  with  all  the  othsr  months. 


INDIA 
BURMA  AND  CEYLON 


1901-1902. 

IMPORTANT  INFOEMATION  FOR  TRAVELLERS 
IN  INDLA.. 


CALOirrrA  to  Bombay  (shqrtbst 

roitte). 

(See  Boutes  1  and  8). 

Now  that  the  Bengal  Nagpur  Rail- 
way has  a  direct  entry  into  Calcutta, 
via  Khargpur,  the  distance  between 
that  city  and  Bombay  has  been  short- 
ened to  1221  miles,  and  the  journey  is 
accomplished  in  44|  hours. 

The  Grand  Circular  Toitr  of 
India. 

Travellers  should  note  that  with  the 
opening  of  through  direct  railway 
communication  between  Calcutta  and 
Madras,  lately  effected,  and  with  the 
establishment  of  an  **  overland"  service 
six  days  a  week  between  Madras  and 
Colombo,  it  is  now  possible  to  make  a 
grand  circular  railway  tour  through 
India,  beginning  at  Bombay  and  ending 
at  Colombo,  or  vice  versd,  and  visiting 
en  rovXe  all  places  of  interest  in  South- 
em,  Northern,  and  Western  India. 


SKELETON  ROUTE. 
Calcutta  to  Madras,  1031  miles, 

BY  THE  BeNGAL-NaGPUR  AND  MADRAS 

Railways,  via  Midnapur  (Kharg- 
pur), Balasore,  Cuttack  (and  Puri), 
Chilka  Lake,  Vizagapatam,  Cooan- 

ADA,  AND  BeZWADA. 

'^'mtta,  see  p.  62  (see  also  Rte.  21). 
1.  Kola  Oliaut  (R.)    Here  the 
r  crosses  the  Roopnarain  River, 
3  tidal  river  flowing  into   the 
^'hly,  at  its  junction  with  which 
:ne  fSunous  James  and  Mary  sands, 
scene  of  so  many  wrecks  in  the 
ghly.    The  bridge  over  this  river, 
t  \  mile  in  length,  is  a  very  fine 
'  ''"'^m  the  engineering  diffi- 


culties met  with  in  constructing  it,  it 
ranks  as  one  of  the  most  important 
bridges  in  India. 

72  m.  Khargpur  (R.)  An  important 
station,  being  the  junction  of  the  trans- 

geninsular  line  to  Bombay,  and  of  the 
oast  line  to  Madras.  There  is  also  a 
short  branch  line  to  the  big  town  of 
Midnapur,  an  old  East  India  Company 
settlement,  8  miles  distant,  and 
another  line  is  now  under  construction, 
which  will  run  north-westwards  to 
Bankura  and  the  Jherriah  coalfields. 

144  m.  Balasore  (R.)  (D.B.)  Head- 
quarters of  Civil  District  Government 
and  an  Ordinance  station  for  testing 
shells  and  guns.  The  o^en  sea  makes 
it  a  favourite  resort,  and  it  promises  to 
become  in  the  near  future  a  large 
watering  place.  The  delicious  pomfret 
fish  is  procurable  and  is  finding  its  way 
into  the  Calcutta  market.  There  are 
large  Roman  Catholic  and  Baptist 
Missions  in  the  town.  The  place  was 
once  of  great  commercial  importance, 
and  both  the  Dutch  and  the  Danes  had 
factories  here.  There  are  two  curious 
old  Dutch  tombs,  dated  1688,  built 
like  three-sided  pyramids  about  20  feet 
high  in  a  small  secluded  enclosure  near 
the  native  part  of  the  town. 

202  m.  Jajpur  Boad.  This  is  the 
station  for  Jajpur,  the  ancient  capital 
of  Orissa.  (For  description,  see  p.  290 
et  seq,  of  Handbook,  Fourth  Edition.) 

253  m.  Cuttack  (R.)  (D.B.)  [For 
description,  see  pp.  288,  289  of  Hand- 
book, Fourth  Emtion.] 

Within  11  miles  north  and  south  of 
Cuttack  the  railway  line  is  carried  over 
no  less  than  five  big  bridges,  the  whole 
section  comprising  the  most  difficult 
piece  of  riverine  engineering  to  be  seen 
anywhere  in  India. 


IMPORTANT  INFORMATION  TO  TRAVELLERS  IN  INDIA 


iTidia 


270  m.  BhuTaneshwar.  [See  pp. 
283  et  seq.  of  Handbook,  Fourth 
Edition.] 

282  m.  Khurda  Bead  (R.)  Junction 
for  Puri  (Jagannath)  28  miles  distant. 
[See  pp.  278  et  seq.] 

331.  m.  Borcool.  Situated  on  the 
shores  of  the  beautiful  Chilka  Lake, 
the  frontier  station  between  Madras 
and  Bengal  Presidencies.  [See  under 
Eambha  below.] 

344  m.  Bamblia.  [See  p.  353  of 
Handbook,  Fourth  Edition.  The  last 
sentence  should  read: — "It  subse- 
quently became  the  property  of  Mr 
Minchin,  proprietor  of  a  Distillery  and 
Sugar  Factorj  at  Aska,  in  the  interior 
of  the  District ;  and  now  belongs  to 
the  Rajah  of  KaUikotah  and  Atgada."] 

361  m.  Hiimma.  The  site  of  the 
large  Government  Salt  Factory,  the 
salt  being  manufactiu*ed  from  sea- water 
by  evaporation  in  "  salt-pans,"  which 
can  be  seen  between  the  railway  and 
the  sea. 

866  m.  Ganjam.  [See  under  Humma, 
p.  353  of  Handbook,  Fourth  Edition.] 
360  m.  Chatrapur.     [See  p.  353.] 
374  m.  Berhampur.    [See  pp.  352, 
353.] 
420  m.  Palasa  (R.)    [See  p.  353.] 
466  m.  Cliicacole  Boad.   [See  p.  353.] 
508  m.  Viziaiiagraiii  (R.)    [See  pp. 
852,  363.] 

546  m.  Waltair  (R.)    The  junction 
between  the   Bengal-Nagpur  Railway 
and    the    Madras    Railway    systems. 
[See  pp.  352.] 
548  m.  Vizagapatam.    [See  p.  352.] 
606  m.  Tuni  (R).      [See  p.  362.] 
639  m.  Samalkot  Junction  (R.)  [See 
p.  362.] 

670  m.  BaJalimundiy(R.)  [See  p. 
352.] 

671  m.  Oodavery.  The  site  of  the 
huge  Havelock  bridge  (56  spans  of  150 
feet)  over  the  Godavery  River. 

726  m.  EUore  (R.)    [See  p.  352.] 
763  m.  Bezwada  Jonctio a  (R. )  (D.  B. ) 
An  important  station,  the  junction  of 
tVirPfi  lines :  the  Madras  Railway  (East 


Coast  Une) ;  the  Nizam's  Railway, 
running  due  west  via  Hyderabad  and 
Secunderabad  to  Bombay;  and  the 
Southern  Mahratta  Railway  (Bellary- 
Kistna  line)  running  south-west  to 
Guntakal  Junction.  [See  pp.  358,  359 
and  360.] 

809  m.  Bapatla  (R.) 

849.  m.  Ongole  (R.)  Important 
station  of  American  Baptist  Mission. 

900  m.  Bitragunta  (R.) 

921  m.  Nellore.  Head-quarters  of  a 
Civil  District  of  the  same  name.  The 
scene  of  a  massacre  of  French  soldiers 
in  1758,  under  orders  of  Najib-ulla, 
who  subsequently  submitted  to  the 
British.  Tne  town  contains  an  old 
fort,  now  in  the  District  Magistrate's 
OflBce,  and  an  old  cemetery  with  graves 
dating  back  to  1785.     [See  p.  334.] 

945  m.  Gudur  Junction.  Junction 
for  the  South  Indian  Railway  branch 
line  to  Renigunta  Junction  (on  the 
Madras  Railway  north-west  line),  Pak- 
ala,  and  Katpadi  (Vellore)  Junction 
(on  the  Madras  Railway  south-west 
line). 

1009  m.  Fonneri(R.) 

1021  m.  Emiiir.  On  a  spacious 
backwater.  Formerly  a  suburban 
resort  much  frequented  by  people  from 
Madras.  The  site  of  a  large  Salt 
Factory. 

1031  m.  Madras  (Beach  Station). 
[For  description  of  Madras,  see  p.  336 
et  seq.] 

Madras  to  Colombo  (Overlani) 
Route). 

[See  Route  31.  The  title  of  this 
route  should  be  altered] : — Madras  to 
Colombo  via  Villupueam  (for  Pon- 
dicheery),  Tanjore  Trichinopoly, 
Madura  and  Tutioorin.  The  de- 
scription up  to  p.  407  may  be  followed 
until  '  *  425  m.  Maniyachi "  is  -  i, 

when  it  should  continue  thu£ 

426  m.  Maniyachi  Junctit-.  re 

a  branch  line  runs  to  Tinnevellj  d 
Palamcotta.  [For  descriptio-  -'  se 
see  pp.  407  and  408.] 

443  m.  Taticorin  (R.)    Tht  n 

terminus    of   the    Railway,  le 

embarking  place  for  Colombo 


IMPORTANT  INFOEMATION  TO  TKAVBLLBRS  IN   INDIA 


3 


Historical. — Tuticorin  was  originally 
a  Portuguese  settlement,  and  was 
founded  about  1540.  In  1658  it  was 
captured  by  the  Dutch,  and  in  1782 
by  the  English.  It  was  restored  to 
the  Dutch  in  1786  and  again  taken  by 
the  English  in  1795.  During  the 
PoUgar  war  of  1801,  it  was  held  for  a 
short  time  by  the  Pqligar  of  Panchal- 
amkurichi,  and  was  ceded  to  the  Dutch 
in  1818.  It  was  finally  handed  over 
to  the  English  in  1825. 

Objects  of  Interest.— The  old  Dutch 
cemetery  containing  several  tombstones, 


on  which  are  carved  armorial  bearings 
and  raised  inscriptions,  is  worthy  of  a 
visit.  Twenty  miles  south  of  Tuticorin 
on  the  sea  lies  the  village  of  Trichen- 
dur,  which  contains  a  large  and  impor- 
tant temple  dedicated  to  Subramanya, 
the  God  of  war,  and  second  son  of  Siva. 
The  temple  contains  some  excellent 
sculpture  and  several  inscriptions.  A 
few  miles  further  south  is  a  group  of 
16  columns  each  bearing^  an  inscription. 
There  is  a  good  road  to  Trichendur,  and 
carts  can  be  hired  for  the  journey  there 
from  Tuticorin  at  Rs.  5  each. 


TUTICORIN  (B.) 

Hotel :  British  India  H. , 
immediately  opposite  the 
.  station,  has  accommoda- 
tion for  three  first-class  and 
two  second-class  visitors. 
The  charge  for  board  and 
lodging  is — 

First  class,  Rs.  4-8-0 )  per 
Second  „  „  8-0-0  f  diem 
Road  Conveyance : 
Carriages  and  jutluis  are 
nsually  procurable  at  the 
station,  the  fares  being  8 
and  2  annas  per  mile,  re- 
spectively. Bullock-carts 
can  be  hired  in  the  town, 
the  charge  being  2  annas 
per  mile. 

Railway    Facilities: 
First  and  second  class  car- 
riages are  run  to  and  from 
the  pier  in  connection  with 
the  departure  and  arrival  of 
the  luiil  steamers  to  and 
from   Colombo.      Waiting 
accommodation  is  provided 
at  the  station  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen,    and  there  is 
also  a  Refireshment  Room 
under  the  management  of 
Messrs  Spencer  &  Co.   The 
butler  in  charge  has  usually 
a  few  copies  of  the  Mad/ras 
Mail  and  Madras  Times  for 
sale,  as  well  as   a  small 
stock  of  travellers'  requis- 
ites.    In  case  of  the  late 
;he    Colombo 
srs  Spencer  & 
;enerally  arrange 
bkfast  in  the 
and    aerated 
urried  by  all 
ine  Mail  trains  dur- 
"  journeys,  and  can 
lased  at  the  rates 
'  *    "    "^•"'^any's 

inge- 


mentS:  A  British  India 
Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany's steamer  leaves  daily 
(Sundays  excepted)  at  6 
P.M.  for  Colombo,  and  one 
arrives  from  Ceylon  daily 
(Mons.  excepted)  at  about  8 
A.M.,  the  passage  occupying 
about  16  hours.  The  jour- 
ney between  the  pier  and 
steamer  is  made  in  a  steam 
laimch  belonging  to  the 
British  India  Steamer 
Agents  at  Tuticorin,  and 
occupies  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  For  fur- 
ther particulars,  in  con- 
nection with  the  launch 
service,  the  Company's 
Guide  should  be  consulted. 
The  British  India  Com- 
pany's coasting  steamers 
between  Calcutta  and 
Bombay  touch  at  Tuticorin 
once  a  week  and  their 
other  vessels  as  occasion 
offers.  The  Asiatic  Com- 
pany's steamers  and  those 
of  the  Japanese  line  also 
call  at  the  port.  A  large 
number  of  sailing  boats  of 
20  tons  burden  are  always 
procurable  on  an  average 
payment  of  Rs.  12.8  per 
trip  to  steamer  and  back. 
The  pier  belongs  to  Govern- 
ment, and  is  under  the 
control  of  the  Port  OflScer. 
There  are  also  several  pri- 
vate jetties  belonging  to 
the  various  mercantile 
firms. 

Local  Mannfactnrers 
and  Products:  There  is 
a  large  Government  salt 
factory  about  a  mile-and-a- 
half  from  the  station,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a 
siding.  In  the  town  are 
several  cotton  presses  and 


an  important  Spinning 
Mill.  Tuticorin  is  the 
centre  of  very  ancient 
pearl  and  conch  shell  fish- 
eries, but  since  the  deep- 
ening of  the  Pamban  Chan- 
nel between  India  and 
Ceylon,  the  yield  has 
greatly  decreased.  The 
Manaar  pearl,  which  is  not 
of  good  colour,  is  usually 
fished  for  in  March,  April 
and  May,  under  Govern- 
ment management. 

Local  Offldals:  The 
ofiScials  having  offices  at 
Tuticorin  are  the  Sub- 
Collector,  Deputy  Tahsil- 
dar,  Sub-Registrar,  Assis- 
tant Superintendent  and 
Inspector  of  Police,  Assis- 
tant Commissioner  of  Salt 
and  Abkari,  Customs  Sup- 
erintendent, and  the  Port 
Officer,  who  is  also  the 
Superintendent  of  Pearl 
Fisheries.  The  Bank  of 
Madras  and  National  Bank 
of  India  have  branches, 
and  British  India  and  Asi- 
atic Steam  Navigation 
Companies,  Agencies  in  the 
town. 

Missions,  Churches, 
etc. :  The  Society  for  the 
Propagation  of  the  Gospel 
maintains  a  training  school, 
and  a  College  named  after 
the  late  Bishop  Caldwell. 
Within  easy  reach  of  the 
station  are  a  Protestant 
and  two  Roman  Catholic 
Churches.  The  native 
fishing  conmiunity  profess 
Christianity  to  a  large 
extent,  and  are  almost 
entirely  Roman  Catholics. 

Club:  A  Club  for  Eur- 
peans  is  situated  on   tl 
sea  front. 


IMPOKTANT  INFORMATION  TO  TRAYELLSBS  IN  INDIA 


India 


P.  Ixxxix. — Silver  Coins, — ^The  value 
of  the  Rupee  in  gold  is  now  fixed  at  1/4. 

P.  289,  line  34— "The  launches  .  . 
Calcutta. " — This  is  not  required  now 
that  through  railway  conmiunication 
is  opened  from  Calcutta  to  Madras. 

P.  818,  ooL  1,  line  10.— For  about 
40  hours  read  32  hours. 

P.  366,  col.  2,  line  2  from  bottom— 
Cannannore.  —  A  railway  S.  along 
the  coast,  via  Tellicherry,  to  Calicut 
is  about  to  be  opened  (1901)  and 
eventually  it  is  to  be  continued  N.  to 
Mangalore,  p.  365. 

P.  369,  col.  1,  line  10  from  bottom- 
Cochin. — A  railway  to  Shoran  on  the 
Madras  Bailway  (Ualicut  line)  is  now 
(1901)  beiag  constructed,  and  will 
shortly  be  opened. 

P.  405,  col.  1,  line  14.— Madura.— 

A  railway  is  now  (1901)  being  con- 
structed from  here  to  Paunben  (Rames- 
waram,  pp.  371  and  400),  which  will 
probably  take  the  place  of  Tuticorin  as 
the  starting  place  for  steamers  for 
Colombo,  deep  water  allowing  vessels 
to  get  close  in  shore,  whereas  at  Tuti- 


corin they  have  to  lie  several  miles 
out. 

P.  376,  col.  1,  line  4  from  bottom.— 
Bowringpet.— The  Kolar  Gold  Mines 
are  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  over  60,000 
miners  are  employed.  Since  1881  the 
yield  has  been  £12,000,000.  It  is 
proposed  to  work  the  mines  by  elec- 
trici^  to  be  generated  by  the  force  of 
the  Cauvery  Falls  (p.  279). 

P.  388,  col.  1,  last  line— Mettapal- 
aiyam. — ^This  is  the  terminus  of  the 
broad-guage  line,  and  the  junction  with 
the  NUgiri  Mountain  Railway,  which 
runs  as  far  as  Coonoor,  17  miles,  and 
which  is  eventually  to  be  continued  to 
Ootacamund,  12  miles  further.  The 
Nilgiri  Railway  is  the  metre  gauge, 
and  on  the  mountain  gradient  is  fur- 
nished with  a  central  rack  rail,  enabling 
it  to  ascend  1  in  12.  The  scenery  is 
magnificent,  and  the  journey  up,  in 
the  course  of  which  the  line  ascends 
6000  feet,  occupies  3^  hrs.,  the  journey 
down  occupyins(  2J  hrs.  From  Coonoor 
to  Ootacamund  the  journey  is  done  in 
pair-horse  curricles  (tongas)  provided 
by  the  Railway  Company,  which  under- 
takes through  booking  for  passengers 
and  luggage. 


BOMBAY  3«ci  AND  ENVIRONS. 


CONTENTS. 


I  Cemetery 
terj',  Parell . 
ies      . 
1  Groimd    . 

iits',  Malabar  Hill 


pycnlla 

■Scotland 
f  Church 
lotch  Presbyterian  ^ 


lid  Directory). 


tince's,  Sassoon,  Vic. 
,  Herewether . 


_  s  for  Parsi  Ladies 
M  High  School  , 

iSchool  for  Girls 

s  High  School 


t  College 


t  Kanbari 


[on  of  Bombay 
"ion 
»,  Malabar  Point, 


PAGE 

18 

7 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

0 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

9 
10 
10 

2 

7 
2 

8,9 

7 

18 
18 
IS 
18 
12 
12 
18 
12 
18 


18 
26 
25 
22 
25 
26 
22 
8 
1 
,  Parell     6 


I  and  Directory). 
1  Manufactures 
ritable  and  otherwise, 


le,  Colaba 


Institutions,  etc. — 

European  Qeheral  Hospital         .        .  18 

Gokaldas  Hospital        ....  IS 

Grant  Medical  College  ....  14 

House  of  Correction     ....  15 

Incurable  Hospital       ....  14 

Jamshidji  Dharmsala  ....  14 

„         Hospital       ....  14 

Motlebai  Obstetric  Hospital        .        .  14 

Ophthalmic  Hospital  .                .        .  14 

Parsi  Almshouse 15 

„     Dharmsala 14 

Pestonji  Kama,  for  Women  and  Children    18 

PinjraPol 15 

Sailors'  Home .18 

St.  George's  Hospital   ....  18 
Sir  Jamshidji  Jijibhai's  Pars!  Benevo- 
lent Institution         ....  14 
Sir  D.  M.  Petit  Hospital      ...  14 

Workhouse .16 

Institutions— Literary  and  Scientific — 

Anthropological  Society      ...  15 

Asiatic  Society 16 

Mechanics'  or  Sassoon  Institute .       .  15 

Natural  History  Society      ...  15 

Landing  and  landing-places  ...  2 

Lighthouses — Kennery,  Prong      .       .  9 

Markets — 

Cotton  Market,  Colaba        ...  17 

Crawford     „         .....  16 

Nul             „ 17 

Missions 10 

Municipal  Buildings        ....  7 

Museum  and  Victoria  Gardens                .  16 

Native  Quarter 17 

Observatory  at  Colaba     ....  7 
Public  Offices- 
Courts  of  Justice  4 

Mint      ...                ...  6 

Post  Office 6 

Presidential  Secretariat        ...  4 

Public  Works'  Secretariat    ...  6 

Telegraph  Office 5 

Town  Hall 6 

University  Library  and  Clock  Tower  .  4 

University  Hall 4 

Shooting 18 

Shops  (see  Index  and  Directory). 

Statues     ....                .        .  15 

Suburbs— Breach  Candy,  By  cull «,  Mala- 
bar Hill,  Mazagon,  Parell    ...  8 

Temples— Hindu 18 

Victoria  Railway  Station        ...  6 


'  Bombay  is  sitnatcd  in 
[long.  72**  62'.    It  is  one 

ands  which  were  at  one 
I  from  the  mainland  and 


from  one  another  by  very  narrow  chan- 
nels, some  of  which  have  now  been  filled 
up.  They  are  :  1.  Bassein  ;  2.  Dravi ;  3. 
Yersova ;  4.  Salsette ;  5.  Trombay,  in 

implies  that  ftirther  information  is  to  be  found  in  the  Index  and  Direetozy 


BOMBAY  AND  XNVIB0N8 


which  the  hill  called  the  Neat's  Tongue, 
900  ft  high,  is  a  conspicuous  mark ; 
6.  Bombay  ;  7.  Old  Woman's  Island  ; 
8.  Colaba ;  9.  Elephanta ;  10.  Butcher's 
Island;  11.  Gibbet  Island;  12.  Kar- 
anja. 

Bombay  Island  is  11}  m.  long  from 
the  S.  extremity  of  Colaba  to  Sion 
Causeway,  over  which  the  railway  passes 
to  the  larger  island  of  Salsette,  ana  from 
S  to  4  m.  broad  in  that  portion  which 
lies  to  the  N.  of  the  Esplanade.  It  is 
difficult  to  estimate  its  area,  but  it 
may  be  put  down  as  about  22  sq.  m. 
The  last,  census  (1891)  of  the  city  is 
821,764,  viz.: 


Hindu  .  .  543,201 
Mohsmmed^ng  154.247 
rauristians  .  45,810 
BaddhiBU  190 

Jains       .        .    25,225 


Panli   .       .  47,458 
Jews     .       .    5,021 
Atheists,  otb<>r 
than  Buddhists 
And  Jains      •        SS 


Limiting  the  area  of  Calcutta  to  the 
municipality,  and  excluding  the 
suburbs,  Bombay  ranks  as  the  second 
most  populous  city  in  'the  British 
Empire.  Most  of  its  population  is 
crowded  into  an  area  of  about  4 
sq.  m.  From  the  8th  August  1896 
to  the  30th  June  1897,  there  were 
27,597  deaths  in  Bombay  of  plague, 
or  bubonic  fever.  Of  those  attacked 
60  p.  c.  died.  The  epidemic  was  of 
a  comparatively  mild  form,  but  re- 
sulted in  great  loss  to  business  men, 
owing  to  the  world-wide  quarantine 
imposed  upon  all  vessels  from  Bombay. 

dimate. — The  average  temperature 
of  Bombay  is  79  2°  F.  It  is  neither 
so  hot  in  summer  nor  so  cold  in  winter 
as  many  places  in  the  interior.  The 
coolest  months  are  from  November  tUl 
March.  The  S.W.  monsoon  begins 
about  the  second  week  in  June,  and  the 
rains  continue  till  the^nd  of  September. 
The  average  rainfall  is  70*30  in. 

Bombay  Harbour.— On  approaching 
Bombay  from  the  W.  there  is  little  to 
strike  the  eye.  The  coast  of  the  island 
is  low,  the  highest  point,  MtJabar 
Hill,  being  only  180  ft.  above  the  sea. 
But  on  entering  the  harbour  a  stranger 
#ui*4  be  imx^resBod  with  the  pictur- 


esqueness  of  the  scone.  To  tlie  W. 
the  shore  is  crowded  with  baHdinga,  i 
some  of  them,  as  Colaba  Church  and  | 
the  Tower  of  the  University,  very  lofty 
and  well  proportioned.  To  the  N.  and 
£.  are  numerous  islands,  and  on  tho 
mainland  hills  rising  to  an  altitude  of 
from  1000  to  2000  ft  Pre-emineit 
amongst  these  is  the  remarkable  Mil 
of  Bawa  Malang,  otherwise  called  Mai- 
langadh.  on  the  top  of  which  is  an 
enormous  mass  of  rock  with  perpen- 
dicular sides,  crowned  with  a  fort  now 
in  ruins.  On  the  plateau  below  the 
scarp  was  a  strong  fortress  which,  in 
1780,  was  captured  by  Captain  Abing- 
ton,  who,  however,  found  the  upper 
fort  quite  impregnable.  (See  Grant 
Duff,  vol.  ii.  p.  41.) 

The  port  is  crowded  with  vessels  of 
all  nations,  and  conspicuous  amoQ||;|ifc 
them  are  2  monitors,  for  the  defence  of 
the  Harbour.  These  are  called  tlii 
Abyssinia  and  the  Magdala,  and  tm 
armed  with  8-inch  guns  in  2  turrets 
There  are  also  2  torpedo  catcfaem^, 
and  6  fast  torpedo  boats.  The  maDll 
defences,  remodelled  and  armed  witi^ 
the  newest  and  heaviest  guns,  consid 
of  batteries  on  the  islands  in  th« 
harbour.  The  fort  most  to  the  S.  ii 
called  the  Oyster  Eock;  that  on  th^ 
Middle  Gfround  shoal  is  in  the  mid<Hil 
of  the  anchorage.  The  third  defenei 
is  on  Cross  Island,  at  the  N.  end  of  th^ 
anchorage.  The  higher  part  of  thii 
island  has  been  cut  down  and  arme^ 
with  a  battery,  in  addition  to  whiel 
there  are  3  large  batteries  on  the  maia 
land. 

Landing   and    Landing  -  places^ -^ 

Passengers  are  landed  at  the  Ballaa 
Pier  in  launches.  The  Custom-Hom 
officers  come  on  board  for  the  inspef 
tion  of  personal  baggage,  but  heav 
boxes  are  more  conveniently  pasae 
through  at  the  Custom  House.  Ti 
hotel  authorities  and  Messrs.  T.  Coo 
&  Son  generally  send  representativii 
to  meet  passengers  by  each  stcanaoi 
It  is  convenient  for  travellers  to  entrin 
their  baggage  to  one  of  them,  or  1 
their  private  native  servant,  if  tin 
have  engaged  one  beforehand  and  hai 
instructed  him  to  meet  them  on  boan 


OOaiSBAL  DSSCaiFTlON 


8 


If  the  itoamw  arriTei  at  nif^ti  it  Is 
idviwible  to  remam  on  board  until  the 
Boming.  The  P.  &  0.  steamer,  after 
hnding  the  mail  and  most  of  the  pas- 
sengers, proceeds  about  1  m.  N.  up 
the  harbour  to  the  docks.  Though 
4ke  new  tariff  of  1894  has  increased  the 
Bomber  of  articles  dutiable,  those  which 

eVe  trouble  are  firearms  only.  If  these 
ive  not  been  in  India  before,  or 
hxve  not  been  in  India  for  a  year,  a 
jagh.  ad  valorem  duty  is  levied  on  them, 
md  they  cannot  be  removed  from  the 
Ciutoin  House  nnlil  the  duty  is  paid, 
or  a  certificate  given  that  a  full  year  has 
not  elapsed  since  the  owner  left  India. 
Travellers  who  have  not  been  in  the 
East  before  will  be  struck  by  the  pic- 
toresqueness  of  the  scene  on  landing  in 
Bombay.  The  quaint  native  craft  at 
the  quay  ;  the  crowds  of  people  dressed 
in  the  most  brilliant  and  varied  cos- 
tames  ;  the  Hindus  of  different  castes  ; 
fhe  Mohammedans,  Jews,  and  Parsis, 
irith  a  sprinkling  from  other  national- 
ities; the  gaily  painted  bullock -carts, 
nd  other  sights  of  equal  novelty,  corn- 
tine  to  make  a  lasting  impression  on 
fte  stranger's  mind. 

General  Deeciiptioii  of  Bombay  and 
tnbarbs. — The  Apollo  Bandar,  where  the 
livelier  used  to  land,  is  in  the  modem 
ftropean  quarter.  As  he  stands  facing 
[J.,  tne  narrow  promontory  of  Colaba 
n behind  him  to  the  S.E. ;  on  his  right 
■  the  Yacht  Club ;  and  before  him 
netches  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the 
my,  passing  through  *  *  The  Fort, "  with 
m  business  quarter  on  the  rt.,  and  the 
grand  array  of  Public  Buildings — the 
|dde  of  modem  Bombay— on  the  1. 
[uoagh  other  modem  cities  may  boast 
|l  finer  individual  buildings,  none  can 
tpnpare  with  these  m  general  arrange^ 
imt  and  unity  of  effect,  "conceived 
'ftr  the  most  part  with  a  happy  inspira- 
which  blends  the  Gothic  and  the 
schools  of  architecture.  "1  On 
futher  aide  W.  they  face  Back  Bay. 
ding  H.  the  promontory  upon 
Bombay  stands  widens.  On  the 
B  right  are  the  docks  and  dock- 
on  tiie  left  the  bay  trends  away 
and  3.  to  Malabar  Hill  and  Malabar 
I  Sir  SdwinAznold'ft  India  £et>irite2. 


Point.  In  the  centro,  at  the  junotioQ 
of  two  thoroughfares,  are  Yiotoria  Sta- 
tion and  the  new  Municipal  Offices, 
the  largest  and  most  elaborate  build- 
ings in  Bombay,  with  the  Crawford 
Market  beyond  ;  and  then  commences 
the  densely  populated  native  city,  which 
extends  N.  for  2  m.  to  the  suDurbs  of 
Mazagon  and  Byculla,  and  to  the  foot 
of  Malabar  and  Camballa  Hills. 

The  best  suburb  is  Malabar  HiU 
(about  3i  m.  from  the  Fort),  which 
affords  the  highest  and  healthiest  situa- 
tion, and  is  covered  with  charming  villas 
and  bungalows  surrounded  by  gajxlena. 
These  chiefly  belong  to  wealthy  natives, 
but  are  for  the  most  part  inhabited  by 
Europeans  and  Parsis.  Unfortunately 
the  best  and  highest  position  of  all 
is  occupied  by  the  gardens  attached 
to  the  Towers  of  Silence  (see  below). 
Along  the  top  of  the  same  ridge  is 
the  Ladies'  Gymkhana  —  a  favourite 
resort  in  the  evenings  (see  Index), 
and  the  little  Church  of  All  Sainta. 
At  Malabar  Point,  at  the  extreme 
S.  W.,  is  Government  House,  and 
close  to  it  the  Temple  of  Walkesh- 
war,  in  an  unhealthy  depression.  To 
the  N.E.  is  Camballa  Hill  and 
Breach  Candy,  overlooking  the  Indian 
Ocean,  where  there  are  numbers 
of  pleasant  bungalows  and  villas. 
To  the  "N.  is  Parell,  where  are  the 
old  Government  House  and  the  Vic* 
toria  Gai*dens ;  and  to  the  W.  the 
suburbs  of  Byculla  and  Mazagon, which 
include  many  cotton  and  other  manu- 
factories and  warehouses.  At  Mazagon 
are  some  of  the  docks,  including  those 
of  the  P.  &  0.  Company. 


Public  Offices. 

One  of  the  most  conspicuous  features 
in  Bombay  is  the  impressive  line  of 
government  buildings  which  face  Back 
Bay  and  succeed  one  another  in  the  fol- 
lowing order,  from  S.to  N. :  the  Govern- 
ment Secretariat,  close  to  Watson's 
Hotel  on  the  Esplanade,  Univer^ty 
Hall,  Library  and  Clock  Tower,  Law 
Courts,  Public  Works*  Secretariat,  Post 
Office  and  Telegraph  Offices.  There 
ia  a  building  to  the  N.E.  of  Uie  Tel»9 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIBONS 


M 


graph  Offices  which  is  nsed  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  employ^  of  the 
telegraph  department 

The  Preudential  Secretariat  is  443 
ft.  long,  with  two  wings  81  ft.  long. 
In  the  first  floor  are  the  Council  Hall, 
50  ft  long,  Committee  Rooms,  Private 
Rooms  for  the  Governor  and  Members 
of  Council,  and  the  Offices  of  the 
Revenue  Department  The  second 
floor  contains  the  Offices  of  the  Judicial 
and  Military  Departments.  The  style 
is  Venetian  Gothic,  and  the  designer 
was  Col.  Wilkins,  R.E.  The  carving 
is  by  native  artists.  The  staircase  is 
lighted  by  the  great  window,  00  ft. 
high,  over  which  rises  the  tower  to  170 
ft.  At  the  entrance  are  the  arms  of  Sir 
B.  Frere  (who  was  Governor  when  the 
plans  were  formulated  for  erecting 
Public  Buildings,  and  to  whom  Bom- 
bay owes  many  of  its  improvements) 
imd  Sir  S.  Fitzgerald,  ana  there  is  a 
very  handsome  armoire  made  of  teak, 
inlaid  with  black  wood,  all  the  work 
of  native  artisans.  • 

The  nniversity  Library  and  Clock 
Tower  form  a  grand  pile,  designed  by 
Sir  Gilbert  Scott  in  the  style  of  14th- 
century  Gothic.  The  Library  is  a  long 
low  room  adorned  with  carving  and  the 
Great  University  or  Rajabai  Tower  on 
the  W.  side  forms  part  of  it,  and  is  from 
its  height  the  most  conspicuous  building 
in  Bombay.  It  is  260  ft.  high,  and 
was  built  at  the  expense  of  Mr.  Prem- 
chand  Raichand,  in  memory  of  his 
mother,  Rajabai.  It  cost  300,000  rs. 
He  also  gave  100,000  rs.  for  the  Library ; 
and  these  sums  with  accumulations 
more  than  sufficed  to  complete  the  two 
buildings.  The  Tower,  from  the  top  of 
which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Bombay, 
is  divided  into  6  stories,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  octagonal  lantern  spire, 
with  figures  in  niches  at  the  angles. 
There  are  24  figures  in  all  upon  the 
tower  represenlang  the  castes  of  W. 
India.  The  first  floor  forms  part  of 
the  upper  room  of  the  Library,  and  the 
second  contains  a  study  for  the  Regis- 
trar. There  is  an  opening  several  feet 
square  in  the  centre  of  each  floor,  so 
that  one  can  look  up  115  ft  to  the 


ceiling  of  the  Dial  Room.  Thefou 
floor  is  for  the  great  clock.  Under  t 
dials  outside  are  4  small  galleries,  wi 
stone  balustrades. 

University  Hall.— This  fine  buildii 
in  the  French  Decorated  style  of  1 
15th  cent,  is  104  ft  long,  44  ft.  bro 
and  63  ft  high  to  the  apex  of 
groined  ceiling,  with  an  apse  separa 
from  the  Hall  by  a  grand  arch,  an 
gallery,  8  ft  broad,  round  three  sic 
The  painted  glass  windows  have 
excellent  effect,  and  are  also  most  i 
fill  in  tempering  the  fierceness  of 
Indian  sun.  The  Hall,  design  ed  by 
GUbert  Scott,  R.A.,  is  called  after 
Cowaqee  Jehangir,  who  coatribt 
100,000  rs.  towards  the  cost  of  «recfe 
It  was  completed  in  1874. 

The  Courts  of  Justice.— This 
mense  building,  562  ft  long,  wil 
tower  175  ft.  nigh,  was  designed 
Gen.  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E.,  is  said  to  1 
cost  £100,000,  and  was  opened  in  1 
The  style  is  Early  Imglish. 
principad  entrance  is  under  a  1 
arched  porch  in  the  W.  fii^ade, 
either  side  of  which  is  an  octagon  t< 
120  ft.  high,  with  pinnacles  of  \i 
Porbandar  stone,  and  surmountet 
statues  of  Justice  and  Mercy, 
main  staircase  is  on  the  £.  side,  ai 
approached  by  a  noble  groined  con 
in  rorbandar  stone,  which  mns  tht* 
the  building.  The  offices  of  the  1 
Court  are  on  the  first  and  third  v 
floors.  The  Appellate  and  Orij 
Courts  are  on  the  second  floor. 
Criminal  Court  is  in  the  centre  o1 
building,  above  the  main  con 
and  has  a  carved  teak  gallery  fo 
pnbUc  running  round  3  sides, 
ceiling  is  of  dark  polished  tea 
panels,  with  a  carved  centre -j 
The  floor  is  Italian  mosaic.  Fror 
windows  of  the  tower  fine  view; 
obtained.  On  the  E.  are  the  har 
fringed  with  islands.  Modi  Bay,  an 
Fort ;  and  to  the  W.  are  Malabar 
Back  Bay,  and  S.  Colaba  Point. 

Separated  from  the  Post  Office 
broad  road  which  leads  E.  to  the 
by  Church  Gate  Road,  and  W.  t 
Church  Gate  station  of  the  B.  B, 


PUBLIO  OFFICES 


CI.  Hallway,  is  the  Pnblic  Works' 
geeretariat,  with  a  fa9ade  288  ft.  long ; 
the  central  part  haying  6  stories. 

The  Railway,  Irrigation,  etc.  De- 
partments are  in  this  office. 

The  Post  Office  has  3  floors,  and  is 
242  ft  longi  with  wings  on  the  N.  side. 
It  is  in  the  mediaeval  style  (architect, 
^bfihawe).  The  stone  used  is  the 
ttme  as.  that  of  the  Telegraph  Offices  ; 
the  arrangement  is  ezceUent  in  point 
of  convenience. 

The  Telegraph  Office,  in  modem 
Gothic  style,  has  a  fa9ade  182  ft  long. 
jUhe  facing  is  of  coursed  rubble  stone 
'ifom  Coork  in  Salsette,  and  the  columns 
are  of  blue  basalt 

The  State  Record  Office  and  Patent 
jiMRce  occupy  the  W.  wing  of  the 
Iphinstone  College,  close  to  the 
lechanics'  Institute.  Amongst  the 
ords  are  preserved  the  oldest  docu- 
it  relating  to  the  Indian  Empire,  a 
from  Surat,  1630  ;  and  the  letter 
f  the  Duke  of  Wellington  announcing 
lie  victory  at  Assaye. 

The  Town  Hall,  in  the  Elphinstone 
Srcle,  designed  by  Col.  T.  Cowper,  was 
Itened  in  1835,  and  cost  about  £60,000, 
qr  far  the  larger  portion  being  defrayed 
y  the  £.  I.  Comp.  The  building  has 
i  colonnade  in  front,  and  the  fa9ade 
1260  ft.  long.  The  pillars  in  front, 
Hd  the  external  character  of  the 
ififice,  are  Doric  ;  the  interior  is  Cor- 
iihian. 

On  the  ground  floor  are  :  the  Medical 
ijoard  oliices,  in  which  are  four  hand- 

lonio  pillars,  copied  from  those 
If  a  temple  on  the  banks  of  the  Ilyssus ; 
•dthe  office  of  the  Military  Auditor- 
C^nJ,  and  some  of  the  weightier 
Mriontles  of  the  Asiatic  Society.  In 
[i^  upper  story  is  the  Grand  As- 
►  •aWy  Room,  100  ft  square,  in  which 
I^Uie  meetings  and  ballR  arc  held  ; 
we  Asaembly  Room  of  the  Bombay 
'  *  ac  Society  ;    and  the  Library  of 

Society,  founded  by  Sir  James 
Juckintoah,  containing  about  100,000 
■^urnes.  A  stranger  can  have  gratui- 
toaa  access  to  the  rooms  for  a  month  by 


an  order  from  one  of  the  members  of 
the  Society.  The  Levee  Booms  of  the 
Governor  and  the  Commander-in-Chief, 
the  Council  Room,  etc.,  are  no  longer 
used  for  their  original  purposes.  'Die 
place  of  honour  in  the  Grand  Assembly 
Rooms  is  occupied  by  a  statue  of  the 
distinguished  Governor  Mountstuart 
Elphinstone,  executed  by  Chantrey,  as 
are  also  those  of  Sir  J.  Malcolm  and 
Sir  C.  Forbes.  At  the  head  of  the 
staircase,  on  one  side,  is  a  fine  statue 
of  Lord  Elphinstone,  the  Governor 
during  the  Mutiny,  and  on  the  other 
side  is  a  statue  of  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  an 
excellent  likeness.  Between  the  cir-. 
cular  flights  of  stairs  is  the  statue  of 
Sir  Jamshidji  Jijibhai. 

The  Council  Room  contains  pictures, 
by  Mr.  Wales,  of  Baji  Rao  Peahwa, 
(whose  adopted  son,  Nana  Dhondu 
Pant,  will  be  ever  infamous  as  the 
author  of  the  massacre  at  Cawnpore) ; 
of  Baji  Rao's  celebrated  minister.  Nana 
Farnavis ;  and  of  Mahadaji  Sindia. 
In  the  Asiatic  Society's  Library  are 
busts  of  Sir  James  Carnac  by  Chantrey 
and  Sir  J.  Mackintosh.  The  Greo- 
graphical  Room  contains  pictures  of 
Sir  A.  Burnes,  and  Sir  C.  Malcolm 
and  Captain  Ross,  the  two  first  Presi- 
dents of  the  Geographical  Society; 
also  a  very  fine  collection  of  maps. 

The  Mint  is  close  to  the  Town  Hall, 
but  farther  back,  having  a  tank  in  front 
of  it.  It  is  a  plain  building,  with  an 
Ionic  portico,  designed  by  Major  J. 
Hawkins,  and  completed  in  1829.  It 
stands  upon  reclaimed  land,  where  con- 
siderable difficulty  was  experienced  in 
laying  the  foundations :  tne  cost  was 
in  consequence  very  great  Author- 
ity was  granted  to  the  Company  by 
the  Crown  to  establish  a  mint  so  early 
as  1676.  In  the  Bullion  Room  there 
are  sometimes  from  £100,000  to 
£200,000  of  silver  in  London  bars, 
weighing  80  lbs.  each,  and  San  Fran- 
cisco bars,  weighing  100  lbs.  It  is 
unnecessary  to  describe  the  working 
of  the  mint  which  resembles  that  of 
similar  institutions.  Forty  specimens 
of  false  coins  are  exhibited,  one  of 
which  has  been  a  good  coin,  but  all 
the  silver  has  been  scooped  out  and 


BOMBAY  aKB  XKVIBONS 


Ifulut 


lead  sabstittited.  These  coins  hare 
iMen  collected  since  September  1872. 
Adjoining  the  Mint,  on  the  Ballard 
Rofid,  are  the  administrative  offices  of 
the  Fort  Troft,  an  imposing  building. 

Gotvnunent  Bonae  at  Malabar 
Point. — It  is  a  pleasant  drive  of  about 
4  m.  from  the  Fort  along  the  seaside, 
skirting  Back  Bay,  which  on  account 
of  the  sea-breeze  is  cooler,  though  less 
interesting,  than  through  the  hot  and 
crowded  bazaars.  At  about  3  m.  from 
the  Fort  the  road  begins  to  ascend  a 
ftpar  of  Malabar  Hill  Near  the  top 
on  the  1.  are  the  entrance  gates  to 
the  drive,  which  in  less  than  )  m. 
through  a  shady  grove  of  trees  by  the 
sea-shore  leads  to  Government  House. 
It  is  a  building  of  no  architectural  pre- 
tensioins,  but  is  simply  a  bungalow,  or 
rather  a  series  of  bungalows,  with  large 
Cool  rooms  and  deep  verandahs  over- 
looking the  sea,  ana  a  pleasant  view 
across  Back  Bay  to  the  city  of  Bombay 
en  the  farther  side.  Some  of  the  de- 
tached bungalows  aro  for  the  Governor's 
staff  and  for  guests,  all  being  from  80 
to  100  ft.  above  the  sea.  Below  them 
at  the  extreme  point  is  a  battery,  which 
could  sweep  the  sea  approach.  Not 
for  off  to  the  N.  a  large  ship,  the 
Diamond,  was  wrecked  and  80  pas- 
sengers were  drowned.  Sir  Evan  Nepean 
wals  thb  first  Governor  to  reside  at  Mala- 
bar Point.  He  went  there  in  1813,  as 
the  cool  sea-breeze  was  indispensable  to 
his  health,  and  built  an  additional  room 
to  the  Sergeants'  quarters,  which  was 
the  only  house  existing  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. In  1819-20,  Mr.  Elphin- 
stone  added  a  public  breakfast-room, 
and  a  detached  sleeping  bungalow  on 
a  small  scale.  In  1828  Sir  John  Mal- 
colm gave  up,  for  public  offices,  the 
Government  House  in  the  Fort  and  the 
Secretary's  office  in  Apollo  Street,  and 
considerably  enlarging  the  residence  at 
Malabar  Point,  regularly  constituted  it 
a  Government  House.  Close  by  is  the 
picturesque  temple  of  Walkeshwar  (see 
oelow).  The  drive  from  Malabar  Point, 
and  thence  along  the  sea  by  Breach 
Candy,  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful in  the  island,  and  is  thronged 
with  carriages  and  equestrians  every 


evening.  Finer  still  is  that  recently 
opened  up  by  Gibbs  Road,  contmniog 
the  Ridge  Road  through  a  gardens 
ferns  and  crotons  to  Camballa  fiill. 

OoYttnmdnt  House  at  PareU  was  a 

Portuguese  place  of  worship  and  mon- 
astery, confiscated  by  the  EngM 
government  on  account  of  the  traitor- 
ous conduct  of  the  Jesuits  in  1720. 
Governor  Hornby  was  the  first  who 
took  up  his  residence  there,  between 
1771-80. 

To  supply  the  required  accommoda- 
tion Mr.  Elphinstone  built  the  right 
and  left  wings.     The  public  rooms  an 
in  the   centre   facing   the  W.     The 
drawing-room  or  ballroom  above  the 
dining-room  occupies  the  place  of  the 
old  Portuguese  chapel.    On  the  staircase  : 
there  is  a  bust,  and  in  the  ballroom  a 
portrait,  of  the  Duke  of  WeUington. 
At  the  end  of  the  ballroom  is  what  is 
called  the  Darbar  Room.     From  the  S. 
corridor  steps  descend  to  a  platform  in 
the  garden,   where    the   band  plays,  j 
The  garden  of  Parell  is  pretty,  and| 
has  at  its  W.  extremity  a  tank,  and  ooi 
its  margin  a  terrace,  which  rises  about 
10  ft.  above  the  water  and  the  grounds. 

Since  1880  the  Governors  have  hved 
principally  at  Malabar  Point,  and  Parefl 
House  has  been  only  used  by  the  Gover- 
nor occasionally  for  garden-parties  is 
the  winter. 

The  Victoria  Station,  terminus  of 
the  Great  Indian  Peninsular  Railway^ 
stands  in  a  conspicuous  place,  in  tw 
angle  between  the  Esplanade  Market 
Road  and  the  Boree  Bandar  Road,  within 
a  few  minutes  walk  of  the  Fort.  It  ia 
a  vast  building,  elaborately  ornamented 
with  sculpture  and  surmounted  by  t 
large  central  dome  ;  at  the  same  time 
its  arrangements  are  found  to  be  pradd' 
cally  most  convenient.  The  architect 
was  F.  W.  Stevens,  CLE. ;  the  styh 
is  Italian  Gothic,  with  certain  Orienta 
modifications  in  the  domes.  It  coart 
the  Rly.  Com  p.  £300,000,  and  w» 
completed  in  1888.  It  is  one  of  th< 
handsomest  buildings  in  Bombay,  aiM 
the  finest  rly.  sta.  in  India,  if  not  ii 
any  country. 


i  Victorift  MoAeanL 
I  Gowalfw  Tajik. 
aHire  Theatre. 

Chriflt  Church. 

Free  Church  High  Bchool. 
,  EuTopi^att    and    Motiainniurlaii    Jlnryin^r 

BTunrirlf?. 
I  Crokaliljis  HoatnUL 
,  St*  Javier  CollegB. 

SclitHjl  of  Art 


St^jJbr^Cieg^E&ta^L^idan 


11.  Marl  Tit"  liaLlalli.ici  Linrss, 

l±  Ctttiaty  aiul  Xr>VL'lt>  Tliealt«s» 

13.  European  General  lIoa^ijrtaL 

14.  MlTlt. 

15.  Town  llalL 

ll3t  SL  Androw'a  Church 

17,  Li anal-it  Aiiyliiin. 

1,S.  Er5;;]Tsli  Comtilnry. 

1!>,  Wi]»uii  Culleg4\ 

SIX  Kl[)htnstonii  Reclanuitiun, 


1?SE  CtJStOM  HOUSE — THE  DOCKYARD 


T' 


Tlie  Municipal  Buildings  (architect, 
F.  W.  Steyens,  CLE.)  occupy  the  angle 
between  the  Hornby  and  Cruicksbank 
Boads,  opposite  the  Yictoria  Rly.  Sta. 
l^e  Oriental  feeling  introduced  into 
the  Gothic  architecture  has  a  pleasing 
e£fect.  The  tower,  255  ft.  high,  and 
sarmounted  by  a  masonry  dome,  can 
be  seen  from  all  parts  of  Bombay.  The 
central  gable  terminates  in  a  statue  13 
ft.  high  representiug  "Urbs  prima  in 
lodis."  The  grand  staircase  is  also 
crowned  by  an  imposing  dome. 

Between  the  Mint  and  the  Custom 
House  are  the  remains  of  the  Castle, 
ooYering  800  sq.  ft.  Only  the  walls 
&cing  the  harbour  remain.  There  is 
a  flagstaff  here  from  which  signals  are 
made  to  ships,  and  also  a  clock  tower, 
where  a  time  signal-ball,  connected  by 
an  electric  wire  with  the  Observatory 
at  Colaba,  in  which  are  valuable 
arrangements  for  magnetic  and  other 
observations,  falls  at  1  p.m. 

Adjoining  the  Castle  is  the  Arsenal 
(order  for  admittance  must  be  obtained 
from  the  Inspector-General  of  Ordnance 
at  Poona).  Besides  the  usual  warlike 
materials,  harness,  tents,  and  other 
inch  necessaries  for  army  equipment 
are  made  here ;  and  here  also  is  an 
interesting  collection  of  ancient  arms 
and  old  native  weapons  of  various 
descriptions. 

The  Custom  House  is  a  large,  ugly 
old  building,  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the 
Town  Hall  and  Cathedral.  It  was  a 
Portuguese  barrack  in  1665,  and  then  a 
quarter  for  civil  servants.  Forbes  in 
nis  Oriental  Memoirs  says  that  in  1770 
he  was  there  and  could  get  no  supper 
or  candles,  so  he  sat  on  the  roof  read- 
ing Shakespeare  by  moonlight  It  be- 
came a  Custom  House  in  1802.  The 
landing- place  E.  is  called  the  Town 
Bandar.  The  Dockyard  extends  hence 
to  the  Apollo  Gate,  with  a  sea-face  of 
■early  700  yds. 
-  The  Dodcyard."— So  early  as  1678 
the  East  India  Company  had  been 
compelled  to  build  ships  of  war  to 
protect  their  merchantmen  from  the 
attacks  of  the  Maratha  and  Malabar 
pintes.  Surat,  however,  was  the 
ehief  station  for  building  vessels,  and 
up  to  1735  there  were  no  docks  in  ex- 


istence at  Bombay.  In  that  yoaar  • 
vessel  was  built  at  Surat  for  the  Oom^ 
pany,  and  an  officer  despatched  from 
Bombay  to  inspect  it  Being  toneli 
pleased  with  the  skill  and  intelUgeuee 
of  the  Pars!  foreman,  Lowji  Naushir- 
wanji,  and  knowing  that  the  (Govern- 
ment was  desirous  of  establishing  a 
building-yard  at  Bombay,  this  offioea* 
endeavoured  to  persuade  him  to  leave 
Surat  and  take  charge  of  it.  The  Parsi, 
however,  had  too  much  honesty  to 
accept  this  advantageous  offer  witnont 
permission  from  his  master  to  whom  he 
was  engaged.  On  its  being  granted,  he 
proceeded  to  Bombay  with  a  few  arti- 
ficers, and  selected  a  site  for  the  docks. 
Next  year  Lowji  was  sent  to  the  N.  to 
procure  timber,  and  on  his  return  he 
brought  his  family  with  him.  Froifi 
that  day  to  this  the  superintendence 
of  the  docks  has  been  wholly  in  Lowji'a 
family ;  or,  as  it  is  well  expressed  by 
a  well-known  writer,  **The  history  of 
the  dockyard  is  that  of  the  rise  of  a 
respectable,  honest,  and  hard-working 
Parsi  family."  Up  to  this  time  the 
king's  ships  had  been  hove  down  for 
repairs  at  Hog  Island.  About  1767 
it  became  necessary  to  enlarge  the  yard. 
In  1771  two  grandsons  of  Lowji — 
Framji  Manikji  and  Jamshidji  Bahm-* 
anji — entered  the  dockyard,  working 
as  common  carpenters  at  12  rs.  a 
month.  In  1774  Lowji  died,  leaving 
only  a  house  and  a  sum  of  money  undet 
£3000.  He  bequeathed,  however,  to 
his  family  a  more  precious  legacy, 
— the  remembrance  and  prestige  of 
his  character  for  spotless  integrit^^ 
Manikji  succeeded  him  as  master- 
builder,  and  Bahmanji  was  appointed 
his  assistant,  the  two  managing  the 
docks  with  increased  success.  They 
built  two  fine  ship  of  900  tons,  and 
the  men-of-war  crippled  in  the  severe 
actions  between  Sir  Edward  Hughes 
and  Admiral  Suffrein  were  docked  at 
Bombay.  Bahmanji  died  in  1790,  in 
debt,  and  Manikji  two  years  afterwards^ 
leaving  but  a  scanty  sum  to  his  fanfily. 
Their  sons  succeeded  them.  Jam- 
shidji in  1802  built  the  ComwalUs 
frigate  for  the  East  India  Compan3fr 
and  his  success  determined  the  Home 
Government  to  order  the  constmction 


8 


BOMBAY  AND  BNYIRONS 


Ifdia 


of  ships  for  the  Royal  Navy  at  Bombay. 
la  consequence  of  his  talents,  he  was 
pennitted  to  have  the  sole  supervision 
as  master  builder.  In  1805  the  dock- 
yard was  enlarged ;  and  in  1820  the 
Mindenf  74,  built  entirely  by  Parsis, 
was  launched,  and  about  the  same  time 
the  Comtoallia,  74,  of  1767  tons.  Subse- 
quently the  WeHesley^  74,  of  1745  tons  ; 
'  tne  MalabaTf  74 ;  the  SerijtgapcUam,  and 
many  other  ships  of  war  were  built ;  in- 
cluding the  Ganges,  84  ;  the  Oaleiuia, 
86 ;  and  the  Miani,  of  86  guns.  All 
these  vessels  were  made  of  teak,  and 
have  sufficiently  proved  the  lasting 
quality  of  that  wood.  It  has  been  said 
tnat  a  teak  ship  will  last  from  four 
to  fives  times  as  long  as  one  of  English 
oak.  The  old  Loivji  Cctstle,  a  merchant- 
man of  about  1000  tons,  is  known  to 
have  made  voyages  for  nearly  three- 
quarters  of  a  century.  Although  the 
dockyard  has  been  of  late  years  much 
enlarged  and  furnished  with  the  best 
and  newest  machinery,  no  large  ships 
are  built  here.  The  enclosure  contains 
about  200  acres.  There  are  5  graving 
docks,  3  of  which  together  make  one 
large  dock  ;  the  Bombay  Dock,  648  ft. 
long,  57  ft.  broad  at  top,  and  34  ft.  at 
bottom,  and  with  12  ft.  perpendicular 
depth ;  the  other  2  graving  docks 
make  a  single  dock,  550  ft.  long,  68  ft. 
broad  at  top,  and  46  ft.  at  bottom,  and 
with  26  ft  perpendicular  depth.  There 
are  also  4  building-slips  opposite  the 
Apollo  Pier,  and  on  the  S.E.  side  of 
the  enclosure.  Bombay  is  the  only 
important  place  near  the  open  sea  in 
Inaia  where  the  rise  of  the  tide  is  suffi- 
cient to  permit  docks  on  a  large  scale. 
At  Bombay  the  highest  spring  tides 
reach  to  17  ft.  ;  but  the  usual  height 
is  14  ft.  The  dockyard  is  lighted  by 
electricity,  so  that  work  can  be  carriea 
on  by  night  if  necessary. 

The  Duncan  Graving  Dock,  origin- 
ally constructed  in  1807,  can  be  divided 
into  two  by  means  of  a  steel-  floating 
caisson ;  its  total  length  is  630  feet  and 
depfh  26  feet  at  spring  tides.  The 
Oovemment  Wet  Basin,  constructed 
in  1891-3,. has  an  area  of  4^  acres,  and 
was  designed  for  the  use  of  Government 
^ips ;  its  depth  is  25  feet  at  spring  tides. 
..-.The  Sassoou  Dock  at  Colaba  is  a 


wet  dock  for  the  discharge  of  cargo 
which  has  been  purchased  by  Govem- 
ment.  The  Bombay,  Baroda,  andC.  I. 
Railway  runs  to  the  S.  of  the  dock, 
and  a  siding  is  carried  under  the  very 
warehouses,  so  that  in  the  monsoon 
the  goods  are  not  wetted.  The  Bom- 
bay, Baroda,  and  C.  I.  Rly.  joins 
the  G.  I.  P.  at  Dadar,  so  that,  practi- 
cally, both  railways  join  the  docks. 
The  Sassoon  Dock,  the  first  wet  dock 
made  in  India,  is  650  ft.  long,  with  an 
average  breadth  of  250  ft.  The  denth 
is  19  ft  at  high  water  at  neap  tides, 
and  22  ft.  at  spring  tides.  In  one  of 
the  warehouses  at  the  W.  end  are  6 
hydraulic  cotton  presses,  which  exert 
a  pressure  of  800  tons  on  each  bale. 
They  can  press  from  125  to  150  bales 
a  day.  A  bale  weighs  more  than 
deal  but  less  than  teak  of  the  same 
dimensions. 

Prince's  Dock  was  commenced  dar- 
ing the  Prince  of  Wales's  visit  in  1875- 
76.  In  excavating  it  the  remains  of 
a  submerged  forest  were  found  at  a 
depth  of  about  10  ft.  About  100  trees 
from  10  to  20  ft  long  were  exhumed ; 
the  wood  is  red  and  very  hard.  The 
dock  extends  over  30  acres,  and 
is  capable  of  containing  80  ocean 
steamers.  On  the  IN.W.  of  this  dock 
is  the  ^Merewethar  (Grovemment) 
Dock.  Adjacent  to  the  docks  is  a 
whole  street  of  warehouses  and  offices. 

The  Victoria  Dock,  S.  of  the  Prince's 
Dock  and  conuectedwith  it,  occupies  the 
space  formerly  taken  up  by  the  Musjid 
and  Nicol  basins.  It  covers  25  acres,  and 
has  an  entrance  80  feet  in  width. 

Both  these  docks  are  excavated  on 
the  estate  known  as  the  ElphinstoiM 
Reclamation,  which  has  taken  in  from 
the  sea  276  acres,  and  has  raised  and 
improved  110  acres.  The  Mody  Bay 
Reclamation  is  S.  of  the  Elphinstone 
estate.  These  two  groups  of  work 
have  transformed  the  eastern  foreshore 
of  the  island  from  a'  mud  swamp  to  a 
busy  mercantile  quarter  worthy  of  the 
capital  of  Western  India. 

Several  hours  might  be  spent  in  visit- 
ing these  vast  reclamation  works  on 
the  E.  shore  of  Bombay  Island,  from 
the  Custom  House  to  Sewri  on  the  N. 
On  these  works  and  on  those  at  Colaba 


LIGHTHOUSES — OHUBOHSS 


and  Back  Bay  £5,000,000  sterling  have 
been  expended. 

The  Dockyard  of  the  P.  &  O.  (Com- 
pany is  in  the  saburb  of  Mazagon. 
The  office  is  situated  in  the  Mazagon 
Dock  Road,  in  a  garden  with  a  profusion 
of  flowering  shrubs.  The  works  were 
finished  in  1866.  The  dockyard  covers- 
12  acres,  and  there  are  iron  sheds  for 
18,000  tons  of  coal.  The  dock  is  420 
ft.  long,  and  capable  of  receiving 
vessels  of  deep  draught  On  its  left, 
looking  towards  the  pier,  is  the  Ice 
Manu^ctory. 

Lighthouses. 

The  Kennery  Lighthouse,  which  is 
12  m.  to  the  S.  of  Bombay,  has  a 
fixed  first-class  cata-dioptric  light  in  a 
tower  161  ft.  above  hign-water  mark. 
It  cost  about  2  lakhs.  There  are  2 
32-pounders  on  the  island  for  signalling. 
The  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  Sir 
Bartle  Frere  in  1867,  and  the  light  was 
first  shown  the  following  year. 

A  ridge  or  causeway,  which  com- 
mences a  little  S.  of  the  Colaba  Ceme- 
tery, and  is  3600  ft.  long,  leads  to  the 
New  or  Prong  Lighthouse,  from  the 
Old  Lighthouse,  extinguished*  1874. 
This  ridge  is  dry  at  low  water  for  4 
days  before  and  4  days  after  full  moon. 
Near  the  Old  Lighthouse  and  at  Colaba 
Point  are  two  modem  batteries,  and  N. 
of  it  are  the  lines  of  the  artillery  and  the 
headquarters  wing  of  a  European  regi- 
ment. The  Prone  Lighthouse  is  150 
ft  high,  with  walls  17  ft.  thick  at  the 
lowest  story,  and  cost  £60,000.  The 
revolving  gear  has  to  be  wound  up  every 
45  minutes,  which  employs  2  men.  In 
storms  the  waves  rise  50  ft.  up  the  sides, 
and  the  tower  vibrates.  Before  this 
lighthouse  was  built  dreadful  ship- 
wrecks took  place  here,  and  many  of 
the  bodies  of  those  drowned  are  interred 
in  Colaba  Cemetery.  It  is  interesting 
to  watch  the  liffht  from  the  shore  of 
Back  Bay  as  it  flashes  into  full  splen- 
dour and  then  in  a  few  seconds  fades 
into  darkness.  The  light  can  be  seen 
to  the  distance  of  18  m.,  and  beyond 
the  lighthouse  the  shoal  water  extends 
for  a  mile.  It  flashes  every  10  seconds. 
Another  lighthouse  takes  the  place 
of  the  old  Inner  Light  vessel 


Churches. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Thomas  stands 
in  the  Fort,  close  to  Elphinstone  Circle. 
It  was  buUt  as  a  garrison  church  in 
1718,  and  made  a  cathedral  on  the 
establishment  of  the  See  of  Bombay 
in  1833,  on  which  occasion  the  low 
belfry  was  converted  into  a  high  tower. 
It  is  simple  in  plan,  and  a  mixture  of 
the  classical  and  Gothic  in  style.  The 
chancel,  added  1865,  is  a  satisfactory 
specimen  of  modem  Early  English. 
There  are  some  monuments  here  which 
deserve  attention, — one  by  Bacon  to 
Jonathan  Duncan,  Governor  for  sixteen 
years.  It  represents  him  receiving  the 
blessings  of  young  Hindus.  This  had 
reference  to  his  successful  efforts  in 
suppressing  infanticide  in  certain  dis- 
tricts near  Benares,  and  afterwards  in 
Kattywar,  through  the  zealous  and 
able  agency  of  Colonel  Walker. 

Amongst  other  monuments  to  be 
noticed  are  that  to  Cap.  G.  N.  Hardinge, 
R.N.,  who  died  in  1808,  in  a  brilliant 
engagement  when  he  took  the  frigate 
La  Fiedmontiare ;  that  to  Col.  Burr, 
who  commanded  at  the  battle  of  Kirkee ; 
and  a  third  to  Major  Pottinger,  who  dis- 
tinguished himself  in  the  defence  of 
Hirat  The  fountain  in  front  of  the 
Cathedral  was  erected  by  Sir  Cowasjee 
Jehangir  Readymoney,  at  a  cost  of 
7000  rs. 

The  Afghan  Memorial  Church  of  St. 
John  the  Evangelist  o^  Colaba,  conse- 
crated in  1858,  consists  of  nave  and 
aisles  138  ft.  long,  with  a  chancel  50  ft. 
long,  and  a  tower  and  spire  198  ft.  high, 
conspicuous  for  some  dis  tance  at  sea.  As 
in  the  great  church  of  Antioch  in  early 
ages,  and  in  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  the 
altar  is  at  the  W.  end.  The  effect  on 
entering  is  good,  owing  to  the  length 
and  height  of  the  building,  the  simpli- 
city of  9ie  arcMtecture,  and  the  *  *  dim 
religious  light"  diffused  through  the 
stained-glass  windows.  The  roof  h 
of  teak.  The  first  object  remarked  on 
entering  is  the  illuminated  metal  screen, 
light  and  elegantly  designed,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  gilt  cross.  S.  of  the  main 
entrance  is  the  Baptistery,  with  a 
large  font  and  triplet  window  erected 
by  the  congregation  in  memory  of  the 


w 


BOkteAt  AND  fc^VlROltS 


tniia 


Bey.  Philip  Anderson,  author  of  Tfui 
English  in  Western  India.  About  ith 
of  the  cost  of  the  spire  was  contributed 
by  Mr.  Oowasjee  Jehangir  in  1864,  a 
smking  instance  of  Parsi  liberality 
and  of  the  good  feeling  between  Parsis 
and  Europeans. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  a 
triplet  window,  erected  to  the  memory 
of  (reneral  David  Barr, 

The  arch  of  the  chancel  is  65  ft.  high. 
The  pulpit  was  given  by  a  member  of 
the  congregation,  the  desk  by  the 
officers  of  H.  M.'s  28th  Regt  on  leaving 
the  country  in  1864,  in  memory  of 
seven  brother  officers. 

The  brass  altar  candlesticks  were 
made  in  the  School  of  Art  at  Bombay. 
Behind  the  lectern  is  the  Litany  sfool, 
inscribed,  "A  Thank  Offering  from  the 
R.  W.  Fusiliers,  1869  a.d.*'  The  choir 
desks  are  supported  by  vnrought-iron 
stands,  illuminated,  and  made  in  the 
School  of  Art.  The  "memorial  mar- 
bles,** are  of  alternate  colours  of  white, 
red,  yellow,  and  blue ;  and  beneath 
them  there  runs  the  followinff  inscrip- 
tion, painted  on  a  blue  ground  : — 

This  Church  was  built  in  Memory  ol  the 
Officers  whose  names  are  written  above,  and 
of  the  Non-Commissioned  Officers  and  Private 
Soldiers,  too  many  to  be  so  recorded,  who  fell, 
mindful  of  their  duty,  by  sickness  ot  by  the 
sword,  in  the  Campaigns  of  Sind  and  Afghan- 
istan, A.D.  1838-1848. 

All  Saints',  the  Ridge,  Malabar  Hill. 

Christ  Church,  Byculla,  was  conse- 
crated by  Bishop  Wilson  in  1835.  It 
holds  500  people.  There  are  here  several 
monuments  and  tombs  of  interest  and 
some  monumental  brasses. 

St.  Peter's  Church,  Maza^on,  has  a 
memorial  window  to  the  officers  and 
men  drowned  in  the  S.S.  CamaMc. 

St.  Nicholas  Church,  at  the  docks,  is 
for  the  use  of  seamen. 

St.  Andrew's  Eirk,  in  Marine  Street, 
was  built  in  1818.  In  1826  the  steeple 
was  thrown  down  by  lightning,  and 
rebuilt  by,  John  Caldecott. 

The  new  Free  Church  stands  in 
Wandby  Road,  near  the  Esplanade. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Church,  in 
Medow  Street,  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  last  century.  There  is  a  bread- 
froit  tree  in  the  inner  quadrangle. 


Missions. 

The  S.P.G.,  with  Church  in  Eamati- 
pura  Eoad,  has  4  missionary  dergyin 
the  town,  and  a  branch  of  the  Ladies* 
Association  working  in  the  zenanas. 

The  O.M.8.  (estabd.  in  Bombay  since 
1820),  has  a  Church  and  large  SchadU 
for  boys  and  girls  at  Girgaon. 

The  Mission  Priests  of  St.  John  the 
Evanfi^elist  (Cowley  Fathers)  serve  the 
Ch.  of  St.  Peter's,  Mazagon,  and  have 
a  Mission  House  and  Schools  for  boys 
and  mrls  near  it:  also  a  native  Mission 
and  Orphanage  in  Babula  Tank  Boad. 

The  "All  Saints'"  Sisters  (from  Mar-    \ 
garet  St.)  have  been  working  in  Bombay 
since  1878,  and  nurse  the  following 
Hospitals:    European    General,   Jam- 
shidji,  Pestonji  Kama.     They  have  2 
High  Schools  for  Girls,  with  Boarding 
Schools :    one   in    Elphinstone   Ciide    | 
called  the  Cathedral  Girls'  School,  the    ! 
other  near  St.  Peter's,  Mazagon.     Also 
St.     John's     Orphanage    for    natives 
(mostly  foundlings)  at  iJmer  Khadi 

The  Atrverican  Presbyterian  Board  of  .| 
Foreign  Missions  or  MaraZha  Mission 
has  a  considerable  staff.  The  United 
Free  Church  of  Scotland  has  a  strong 
body  of  missionaries  connected  with  the 
Wilson  Mission  College  (p.  13)  affiliated 
to  the  University. 

Cehxtsries. 

The  European  Cemetery,  at  PareU^ 
formerly  a  Botanical  Garden,  opened  in 
1830,  is  a  sheltered  spot  under  Flacstaff 
Hill,  with  trees  on  either  side,  and  was 
turned  intb  a  cemetery  about  1867. 

The  ColalMi  Cemetery,  beyond  the 
church,  at  the  extreme  point  of  the 
promontory,  is  tolerably  well  kept,  but 
is  no  longer  used. 

The  Girgaon  Cemeteries  facing  Bade 
Bay.  The  most  northerly  is  the  old 
European  cemetery,  where  was  buried 
the  celebrated  French  naturalist  sjmI 
traveller  Jacquemout.  His  remains 
were  eventually  removed  to  France. 
Neither  this  nor  the  adjacent  Moham- 
medan buryinvi-ground  are  now  in  use. 

To  the  S.  is  the  gromid  for  Mindu 
Cremations.  Europeans  who  desire  are 
allowed  to  enter.  To  the  S.E.  is  the 
Scotch  Cemetery,  now  closed. 

The  five  Towers  of  Silence  stand  upon 


TOWERS  OF  SIL&NGl! 


11 


the  yglittt  pc^t  of  Malabat  Jaili,  100 
It.  above  the  sea.  In  order  to  see  them 
permission  must  be  obtained  from  the 
secretary  to  the  Parsi  Panchayati  Sir 
Jamdii^ji  J\jibhai,  at  his  own  expense, 
made  the  road  which  leads  to  the 
Towesfs  on  the  K.  side,  and  gave 
100,000  aq.  yds.  of  land  on  the  N.  and 
K  sides  of  the  Towers.  They  are  best 
apraroaohed  by  Gibbs  Road. 

Within    the  gateway  of   an  outer 
enclosore  a  flight  of  80  steps  mounts 
up  to  a  gateway  in  an  inner  wall. 
i^m  this  point  the  visitor  is  accom- 
panied by  an  official  of  the  Panchayat, 
and   taming  to  the  rt.   comes  to  a 
stone  building,  where,  during  funerals, 
prayer  is  offered.    From  this  point  one 
of  file  finest  views  of  Bombay  may  be 
obtained.    To  the  1.  are  Sion,  Sewri, 
and  Mazagon  HiUs,  and  between  them 
some  20  lofty  chimneys  of  cotton  mills 
and  other  high  buildings.    Below,  at 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  stretches  a  vast 
grove  of  palms,  in  which  no  human 
habitation  is  visible,  though  many  ai'e 
concealed  by  the  broad  palm  leaves.   On 
the  Tt.  are  seen  in  succession  the  new 
Monicipal  Buildings,  Victoria  Sta.,  Ca- 
thedral, Government  Offices,  Memorial 
Church  at  Colaba,  and  the  Prong  Light- 
house.    Probably  while  the  traveller  is 
looking  at  the  view,  a  funeral  will  take 
place.     A  bier  will  be  seen  carried  up 
the  steps  by  4  Kasr  Salars,  or  **  Carriers 
of  the  Dead,"  with  2  bearded  men 
following  them  closely,   and  perhaps 
100  Parsis  in  white  robes  walking  2  and 
2  m  proceshion.    The  bearded  men  who 
eorae  next   the  corpse  are  the  only 
persons  who  enter  the  Tower.     They 
wear  gloves,  and  when  they  touch  the 
bones  it  is  with  tongs.    On  leaving  the 
Tower,  after  depositing  the  corpse  on 
the  grating  within,  they  proceed  to 
the  puntying  place,  where  they  wash 
and  leave  tho  clothes  they  have  worn 
in  a  tower  built  for  that  express  pur- 
pose.    The  Parsis  who  walk  in  proces- 
sion alter  the  bier  have  their  clothes 
linked,    in  which  there  is    a  mystic 
meaning.     There  is  a  model  of  one  of 
the  Towers  which  was  exhibited  to  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  and  is  produced  to 
viators.     The  tx)wers  are  5  in  num- 
ber»  GEjrlindrical  in  shape,  and  white- 


washed. The  largest  cost  £30,000, 
while  the  other  4  on  an  average 
cost  £20,000  each.  The  largest  tower 
is  276  ft  round  and  25  ft.  high.  At 
8  ft  from  the  ground  is  an  aperture 
in  the  encircling  wall  about  6i  ft  sq., 
to  which  the  carriers  of  the  dead  ascend 
by  a  flight  of  steps.  Inside,  the  plan 
of  the  building  resembles  a  circular 
gridii'on,  gi'aduall^  depressed  towards 
the  centre,  in  which  is  a  well  5  ft  in 
diameter.  Besides  the  circular  wall 
which  incloses  this  well  there  are  2 
other  circular  walls  between  it  and  the 
outside,  with  footpaths  running  upon 
them  ;  the  spaces  between  them  are 
divided  into  compartments  by  radiating 
walls  from  an  imaginary  centre.  The 
bodies  of  adult  m^es  are  laid  in  the 
outer  series  of  compartments  thus 
formed,  the  women  in  tne  middle  series, 
and  the  children  in  that  nearest  the 
well.  They  are  placed  in  these  grooves 
quite  naked,  and  in  half  an  hour  the 
flesh  is  so.  completely  devoured  by  the 
numerous  vultm*es  that  inhabit  the 
trees  around,  that  nothing  but  the 
skeleton  remains.  This  is  left  to  bleach 
in  sun  and  wind  till  it  becomes  per- 
fectly dry.  Then  the  carriers  of  the 
dead,  gloved  and  with  tongs,  remove 
the  bones  from  the  grooves  and  cast 
them  into  the  well.  Here  they  crumble 
into  dust.  Round  the  well  are  perfora- 
tions which  allow  the  rain-water  or 
other  moisture  to  escape  into  4  deep 
drains  at  the  bottom  of  the  Tower,  and 
the  fluid  then  passes  through  charcoal 
and  becomes  disinfected  and  inodorous 
before  it  passes  into  the  sea.  There  is 
a  ladder  in  the  weU  by  which  the 
carriers  of  the  dead  descend  if  it  be 
requisite  to  remove  obstructions  from 
the  perforations.  The  dust  in  the  well 
accumulates  so  slowly  that  in  40  years 
it  rose  only  5  ft.  This  method  of  inter- 
ment originates  from  the  veneration 
the  Parsis  pay  to  the  elements,  and  their 
zealous  endeavours  not  to  pollute  these. 
Parsis  respect  the  dead,  but  consider 
corpses  most  unclean,  and  the  carriers 
are  a  separate  and  peculiar  class  who 
are  not  allowed  to  mix  in  social  inter- 
course with  other  Parsis.  Yet  even 
these  men  wear  gloves  and  use  tongs 
in  touching  the  remains  of  a  deceasBd 


12 


fiOMBAT  AND  BNVtBONS 


Ifdia 


person^  and  purify  themselves  and  cast 
away  their  garments  after  every  visit 
to  a  tower.  Fire  is  too  much  venerated 
by  Parsis  for  them  to  allow  it  to  be 
polluted  by  burning  the  dead.  Water 
IS  almost  equallv  respected,  and  so  is 
earth ;  hence  this  singular  mode  of 
interment  has  been  devised.  There 
is,  however,  another  reason.  Zartasht 
said  that  rich  and  poor  must  meet 
in  death ;  and  this  saying  has  been 
literally  interpreted  and  carried  out 
by  the  contiivance  of  the  well,  which 
is  a  common  receptacle  for  the  dust 
of  all  Parsis,  of  Sir  Jamshid\ji  and 
other  millionaires  and  of  the  poor 
inmates  of  the  Parsi  Asylum.  In 
the  arrangements  of  the  vast  area 
which  surrounds  the  Towers  nothing 
has  been  omitted  which  could  foster 
calm  and  pleasing  meditation.  You  at 
once  arrive  at  the  house  of  prayer,  and 
around  is  a  beautiful  garden  full  of 
flowers  and  flowering  shrubs.  Here 
under  the  shade  of  fine  trees  relatives 
of  the  deceased  can  sit  and  meditate. 
The  height  of  the  hill  and  the  proximity 
of  the  sea  ensure  always  a  cool  breeze  ; 
and  the  view  to  the  W.  and  S.  over 
the  waters,  and  to  the  E.  and  N.  over 
the  city,  the  islands  in  the  harbour 
and  the  distant  mountains  beyond,  is 
enchanting.  The  massive  gray  towers 
and  the  thick  woods  about  them  are 
very  picturesque.  Even  the  cypresses, 
as  the  Parsis  themselves  say,  tapering 
upwards,  point  the  way  to  heaven  ;  ana 
it  is  certain  that  the  Parsis  follow  out 
that  thought  and  are  firm  believers  in 
the  resurrection  and  the  re-assemblage 
of  the  atoms,  here  dispersed,  in  a 
glorified  and  incorruptible  body. 

Educational  Institutions. 
Elphinstone  College,  removed  from 
Byculla  in  1890,  now  occupies  a  large 
building  close  to  the  Mechanics'  In- 
stitute, from  which  it  is  separated  by  a 
narrow  street.  This  building  is  called 
after  Sir  Cowasjee  Jehangir  Ready- 
money,  in  recognition  of  his  having 
given  a  couple  of  lakhs  for  the  pur- 
pose of  building  the  original  institu- 
tion. The  Elphinstone  Institution 
was  founded  as  a  memorial  to  the 
Sfifi*  Mountstuart   Elphinstone,    the 


Governor  of  Bombay.  In  1866  it  was 
divided  into  a  Hiffh  School  (see  below) 
and  this  College  for  the  higher  educa- 
tion of  natives,  who  contributed  up- 
wards of  2  lakhs  to  endow  professorships 
in  English,  and  the  Arts,  Sciences,  and 
Literature  of  Europe.  The  sum  accumu- 
lated to  about  4  lakhs  and  a  half,  and 
Government  augments  the  interest  by 
an.  annual  subscription  of  22,000  rs. 
There  are  16  senior  scholarships,  and 
29  junior  are  competed  for  annually. 
A  certain  number  of  undergraduates 
who  cannot  pay  the  College  fee  are  ad- 
mitted free.  In  1862  Sir  Alexander 
Grant,  Bart.,  was  Principal  of  the  Col- 
lege, and  some  distinguished  scholan 
have  filled  Professorships,  as,  for  in- 
stance, Mirza  Hairat,  who  translated 
Malcolm*s  Bistory  of  Persia  into  Persian. 
The  building  is  in  the  mediaeval  style, 
and  contains  lecture-rooms,  library  (in 
which  is  a  portrait  of  Elphinstone  by 
Lawrence),  a  room  for  the  Principal, 
with  one  for  the  Professors,  and  dormi- 
tories above  for  the  resident  students. 
The  W.  wing  is  the  Record  Office. 

The  New  Elphinstone  High  School 
is  in  Esplanade  Cross  Road,  in  front  of 
the  W.  face  of  St.  Xavier's  College. 
Sir  Albert  Sassoon  contributed  £1500  , 
towards  the  cost  of  the  building.  It 
is  the  great  public  school  of  Bombay, 
and  retained  possession  of  the  original 
buildings  on  the  Esplanade  when  the 
College  Department  was  separated  to 
form  the  Elphinstone  College. 

**  The  object  of  this  school  is  to  fur- 
nish a  high-class  and  liberal  education 
up  to  the  standard  of  the  University 
entrance  examination,  at  fees  within 
the  reach  of  the  middle-class  people  of 
Bombay  and  the  Mufassil.  It  has 
classes  for  the  study  of  English,  Mar- 
athi,  Guzerati,  Sanscrit,  Latin,  and 
Persian."  There  are  28  class-rooms, 
a  hall  on  the  first  floor  measuring 
62  X  86  ft.,  and  a  Library.  The  build- 
ing was  designed  by  G.  T.  Molecey. 

St.  Xavier's  (College,  near  the  W. 
end  of  the  Esplanade  Road.  This 
Jesuit  institution,  which  serves  the 
purpose  of  schpol  as  well  as  coUege, 
grew  out  of  the  development  of  St. 
Mary's  Institution  and  the  European 
R.   C.  Orphanage.     The  site  for  the 


EDUOATIONAL  INSTITDTIONS — HOSPITALS,  ETO. 


13 


College  WB8  granted  by  GoTsmment  in 
1857. 

The  Wilson  College'(nained  after  Rev. 
Dr.  J.  Wilson,  F.R.S.,  Oriental  scholar 
and  Scottish  missionary),  for  the 
education  of  young  men,  is  a  fine 
building  near  Chami  Road  Station. 
It  cost  a  lakh  and  a  half  of  rupees,  and 
is  the  largest  coUege  for  natives  in 
"Western  India. 

The  Alexandra  (College  for  Parsi 
Ladies,  in  Kansji  Patel  Street  in  the 
Fort,  was  founded  by  the  late  Mr. 
Manikji  Khurshidji,  who  was  amongst 
the  first  of  the  Parsi  gentlemen  to 
travel  in  Europe.  It  was  opened  in 
1863.  The  girls  remain  in  some  cases 
to  the  age  of  24,  and  are  extremely 
well  instructed  in  history  and  geo- 
graphy and  the  English  and  Gujarati 
languages.  They  also  embroider  and 
do  needle-work  exceedingly  well.  Per- 
sons desirous  of  visiting  the  institution 
could  no  doubt  obtain  permission. 

Two  High  Schools  for  Girls,  with 
Boarding  Schools  (kept  by  the  All 
Saints'  Sisters  :  one  in  Elphinstone  Cir- 
cle, called  the  Cathedral  Girls'  School, 
the  other  near  St.  Peter's,  Mazagon. 

The  Mission  High  School  at  Ambroli, 
together  with  the  church,  cost  £5000, 
and  is  being  further  extended.  There 
is  adjacent  a  college  for  youths,  where 
Sanscrit  and  Persian  are  well  taught. 

The  Sehool  of  Art  was  first  opened 
for  pupils  in  1857.  In  1877  a  hand- 
some new  building  was  erected  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  Esplanade,  near  the 
Gokaldas  Hospital.  Excellent  draw- 
ings and  designs  are  made  here,  as  well 
as  good  pottery,  arms,  artistic  work  in 
silver  and  copper,  and  decorative  carving 
in  wood  and  stone.  The  buildings  in 
Western  India  owe  much  of  their 
beauty  to  the  work  of  students  of  this 
institution. 

150  yds.  off,  in  sheds  set  apart  for 
the  purpose,  are  the  Art  Pottery  Works, 
where  some  beautiful  designs  purely 
Indian  in  form  and  ornament  have  been 
euried  out 

The  Anjnxniui-i-lBl&m  School  is  a 
Hohammedan  School  in  Hornby  Row, 
0^  Yictoria  Tenninus ;  erected  by  the 
eo-operation  of  Government,  which  gave 
the  site,  valued  at  158,000  rs.,  with  a 


money-grant  of  88,000  rs.,  while  the 
Mohanmiedans  subscribed  10,000  rs. : 
the  building  was  opened  by  Lord  Harris 
in  1893.  The  erection  of  this  school 
marks  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  the 
Mohammedan  community.  The  build- 
ing, which  is  of  most  pleasing  appear- 
ance, was  designed  by  Mr.  J.  Willcocks 
of  the  Public  Works  Dept. 

Institutions—charitable  and 
otherwise. 

The  Royal  Alfred  Sailors'  Home,  a 
very  solid-looking  building  in  a  con- 
spicuous position  close  to  the  Apollo 
Bandar,  has  accommodation  for.  20 
officers,  58  seamen,  and  it  is  stated 
that  in  case  of  emergency  it  could  con- 
tain 100  inmates.  Officers  have  separ- 
ate and  superior  quarters.  Each  man 
pays  14  annas  a  day,  for  which  he  gets 
breakfast,  dinner,  tea,  with  hot  meat, 
at  6  P.M.,  and  supper,  and  the  use  of 
the  reading-room.  The  sculpture  in  the 
front  gable,  representing  Neptune  with 
nymphs  and  sea-horses,  was  executed 
in  Bath  stone  by  Mr.  Bolton  of  Chel- 
tenham. His  late  Highness  Khande 
Rao  Gaekwar  gave  200,000  rs.  towards 
the  cost  of  the  building,  to  commemor- 
ate the  Duke  of  Edinburgh's  visit,  and 
the  foundation-stone  was  laid  in  1870 
by  the  Duke. 

The  European  General  Hospital,*  is 
at  the  entrance  to  Boree  Bandar  Road, 
close  to  Victoria  Rly.  Sta.  Should 
the  traveller  fall  ill  in  Bombay,  he 
cannot  do  better  than  go  to  this  hos- 
pital, where  he  will  receive  the  best 
medical  treatment.  Close  beyond  in 
connection  with  this  is  the  new  St. 
George's  Hospital. 

The  Pestonji  Kama  Hospital*  for 
Women  and  Children,  a  Gothic  build- 
ing in  Cruikshank  Road,  is  an  institu- 
tion worthy  of  attention. 

Gokaldas  Hospital,  in  Esplanade 
Cross  Road,  can  contain  126  patients, 
and  is  generally  full.  The  history  of 
this  hospital  is  rather  curious.  Mr. 
Rustamji  Jamshidji  had  offered  to  give 
£15,000  if  Government  would  give  a 
site  for  a  native  hospital  and  contribute 
£10,000  more,  and  if  the  municipality 
would  undertake  to  support  the  Institu- 

*  Nursed  by  the  "  AU  Saints' "  Sisters. 


14 


BOMBAY  A9D  BKYIBOVS 


tioii.  Tl^xicaiQ0th»moiiotarycriiifiB 
Bombay,  and  the  affair  wauld  probably 
have  been  suspended  indefinitely,  had 
not  Mr.  Arthur  Crawford,  C.S., 
obtained  from  Gokaldas,  then  in  his 
last  illness,  a  cheque  for  £15,000,  and 
induced  Government  to  adhere  to  their 
former  intention.  The  value  of  the 
institution  is  now  acknowledged. 

The  Jamahidji  HospitaL*— This  in- 
stittttion  adjoins  the  Grant  Medical 
College.  It  has  Parell  Road  to  the  W. , 
and  Babula  Tank  Road  to  the  S.  It 
consists  of  a  long  low  building  with  2 
wings,  and  contains  14  wurds,  holding 
14  to  16  patients  each.  At  Sir  Jam- 
shidji's  request,  one  ward  has  been 
assigned  to  Parsis ;  in  the  others  all 
castes,  Brahmans,  Dherhs,  and  Moham- 
medans, are  found  together.  They  get 
their  food  from  separate  cooks,  but 
Parsis  and  Mohammedans  will  take 
it  from  a  Christian  cook,  provided  that 
fowls,  etc.,  are  not  strangled,  but  killed 
in  the  Mohammedan  fashion.  In  the 
hall  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Sir  Jamshic^^i, 
a  copy  of  one  in  the  Town  Hall.  To 
the  W.  of  this  hospital  are  the  Ophthal- 
mic Hospital^  the  Hospital  for  inowr- 
ableSf  and  huts  for  infectious  diseases. 
Disease  is  said  to  be  more  prevalent  in 
the  cold  weather  than  in  the  hot.  A 
large  number  of  cases  of  accidents  from 
machinery  in  the  mills  are  brought  to 
the  Jamahidji  Hospital  every  year. 

The  Grant  Medical  College,  in  Parell 
Road,  was  established  in  1845,  in 
memory  of  Sir  Robert  Grant,  Governor 
of  Bombay.  The  Principal  is  subordin- 
ate to  the  Director  of  Public  Instruc- 
tion. There  are  9  Professors,  besides 
4  teachers,  who  lecture  in  Marathi 
and  Guzerati.  There  are  10  scholar- 
ships, besides  funds  for  medals.  In 
the  class  of  the  Professor  of  Materia 
Medica  there  are  sometimes  as  manv  as 
130  students.  The  Museum  is  full  of 
curious  things,  Ivmis  natura,  snakes, 
and  other  reptiles.  The  grounds  cover 
2  acres,  and  are  made  instructive  by 
planting  in  them  all  kinds  of  useful 
trees  and  shrubs.  This  College  turns 
oat  a  number  of  Indian  physicians  and 
surgeons,  who  are  gradually  overspread- 
ing India,  and  find  lucrative  employ- 

*  J&ttised  by  the  <' All  Sainte' "  Sisten. 


meat  in  tbt  B4tiv«  «tat«s.  Th» 
knowledge  of  medicine  thus  difloaed 
ia  one  of  the  greatest  blesaiBgB  India 
haa  derived  from  England. 

A  Convalescent  Home  in  Colaba  wu 
established  by  Mr.  Merwanji  Fran^i,  a 
benevolent  rarsi  gentleman,  whose 
name  ia  inscribed  on  every  pillar  of  the 
building. 

Other  useful  hospitals  are  the  Bm 
Motlebai  Obstetric  Hospital,  the  SirD. 
M.  Petit  Hospital  for  the  diseases  of 
women  and  cnildren,  and  the  Allbleap 
Hospital. 

Sir  Jamahidji  JlJibhai'a  Paral 
Benevolent  Institution,  in  Bamparl; 
Road,  facing  the  Esplanade,  was  founded 
in  1849  by  Sir  Jamshidji,  who,  with 
Lady  Avabai,  his  wife,  set  apart  for  the 
purpose  3  lakhs  of  rupees  and  25  ahares 
m  the  Bank  of  Bengal,  to  which  the 
Pars!  Panchayat  addeid  35  shares  morew 
The  Government  of  India  are  tlui 
trustees,  and  pay  interest  at  6  per  oent 
on  the  3  lakhs.  The  income  ia  divided 
into  '400  shares,  of  which  180  go  for 
the  Boys'  and  Girls'  Schools  in  Bon^bay, 
70  for  those  in  Surat,  and  150  for 
charities  for  the  poor. 

The  Jamahidji  Dhannsala,  not  v^ry 
far  off,  contains  about  200  small  rooms 
for  families  or  individuals.  There  ia  no 
light  or  ventilation,  except  through  the 
doorway  and  a  hole  in  the  roof  about 
6  in.  sq.  There  is  a  Leper  Hos^tal 
attached  to  the  institution. 

Pand  Dhajmaala^  in  the  Gam  Devi 
Road,  is  passed  on  the  approach  to  the 
Towers  of  Silence  from  the  S,  It  ia 
intended  for  poor  Persian  Parsis.  The 
building  is  a  good  and  clean  one,  and 
stands  in  an  extensive  garden,  in  which 
is  a  tank.  In  this  Irani  Dharmaala 
are  sometimes  as  many  as  200  men, 
women,  and  children.  In  the  morning 
they  have  tea  and  bread,  at  11  ▲.](.  rioe 
and,  curry,  and  at  5.30  p.m.  a  dinner 
of  meat  and  vegetables  gratis.  The 
children  are  taught  by  a  Persian 
Munshi.  Close  to  the  dining-room  is 
a  well  of  clear  water,  and  a  large  airy 
sleeping -room  for  men.  A  similar 
dharmsala  close  by  was  erected  at  U^e 
expense  of  Sir  Cowasjee  Jehangir  Ready- 
money,  C.S.|.,  in  commemoration  of  hia 
maternal  grandfather  in  1812. 


LITERARY  AKD  SCIENTIFIC  IKSTITUTIONS,  ETC. 


Id 


At  the  aK  foot  of  the  hill  on  which 
am  the  Towers  of  Silence  \a  an  Alms- 
hOQM  for  decayed  Parsis  of  both  sexes, 
erected  by  the  sons  of  the  late  Far- 
dunji  Sorabji  Parak,  Esq.,  in  com- 
memoration of  their  mother.  Some  of 
the  inmates  are  blind.  In  the  centre 
of  the  quadrangle  are  flowering  shrubs, 
and  outside  is  a  very  large  garden  full 
of  fruit.  The  ghi  and  other  comestibles 
are  kept  in  gigantic  Chinese  jars,  big 
enough  to  hold  *Ali  Baba's  thieves. 
These  jars  cost  2000  rs.  The  whole 
charity  does  much  credit  to  the  muni- 
ficence of  the  Parsis. 

The  Workhonse  adjoins  the  jail ; 
there  are  sometimes  as  many  as  20 
Europeans  in  it.  They  sleep  in  an 
open  shed,  and  are  permitted  to  go  out 
in  search  of  work. 

House  of  Correction,  the  principal 
prison  in  Bombay,  is  in  the  Clare  Road, 
Byculla.  Sailors  who  refuse  to  work  on 
board  their  ships,  and  soldiers  who 
have  committed  civU  offences  are  con- 
fined here. 

Pinjrapol,  or  Infirmary  for  Animals, 
in  the  centre  of  the  native  quarter. 
This  curious  institution  covers  several 
acres.  In  the  1st  division  are  diseased 
and  aged  cattle.  In  the  2nd  division 
are  goats,  sheep,  and  asses.  In  the 
3rd  are  bufifaloes,  and  in  the  4th  dogs, 
some  of  which  are  in  a  horrid  state  of 
maage.  The  animals  are  all  quiet 
enough,  except  the  dogs,  who  keep  up  a 
considerable  noise.  This  place  is  in  the 
Quarter  called  Bholesh  war,  "Lord  of  the 
simple  "  ;  and  the  temple  of  the  deity 
ao  called,  a  form  of  Shiva,  is  within  the 
enclosure. 

LiTBBABT  AND    SCIENTIFIC    INSTITU- 
TIONS. 

The  Bombay  Asiatic  Society  (in  the 
Town  Hall),  instituted  in  1804  for  the 
investigation  and  encouragement  of 
Oriental  Arts,  Sciences,  and  Literature. 
The  Bombay  Geographical  Society  has 
been  amalgainatea  with  it. 

The  Anthropological  Society,  estab- 
Uahed  in  1886  for  the  purpose  of  in- 
vestlgating  and  recording  facts  relating 
to  the  physical,  intellectual,  and  moral 
development  of  man,  and  more  especi- 


ally of  the  various  races  inhabiting  th« 
Indian  Empire. 

The  Natural  History  Society  (Offices 
and  Museum  at  6  Apollo  Street),, 
formed  in  1883  for  the  purpose  of  pro- 
moting the  study  of  Natural  History 
in  all  its  branches. 

Clubs  i^  ^ 

The  Byculla  Club,  Byculla. 

The  Bombay  Club,  26  Esplanade 
Road. 

The  Tacht  Club,  Apollo  Bandar. 

The  Mechanics'  or  Sassoou  Institute, 
in  Rampart  Row,  founded  by  David 
Sassoou  and  his  son  Sir  Albert  in  1870, 
cost  £15,000.  Lectures  are  delivered 
and  prize  medals  awai-ded.  Life-mem« 
bers  pay  150  rs.,  and  members  6  rs. 
per  quarter.  In  the  entrance-hall  is  a 
statue  of  David  Sassoon,  by  Woolner.. 
There  is  also  a  good  Library,  a^c 

The  Victoria  Technical  Institute 
occupies  the  old  building  of  the  Elphin- 
stone  College  in  Byculla,  opposite  the 
Victoria  Gardens. 

Statues,  Fountains,  Museums,  etc. 

The^^o^t^  of  Qtieen  Victoria,  by  Noble, 
near  the  Telegraph  Office,  is  an  object 
of  constant  interest  to  the  natives.  It 
is  of  white  marble,  and  cost  182,443  rs., 
of  which  large  sum  165,000  rs.  was 
given  by  H.H.  the  late  Khande  Rao 
Gaekwar.  The  statue  was  uncovered 
by  Lord  Northbrook  in  1872.  Iler 
Majesty  is  represented  seated.  The 
Royal  Arms  are  in  front  of  the  pedes- 
tal, and  in  the  centre  of  the  cano]^  is 
the  Star  of  India,  and  above  the  Rose 
of  England  and  Lotus  of  India,  with 
the  mottoes  "God  and  my  Right" 
and  "Heaven's  Light  our  Guide"  in- 
scribed in  four  languages. 

There  is  also  an  equestricm  statue  of 
the  PriTice  of  Wales  in  bronze,  on  a 
gray  granite  pedestal,  by  Sir  Edgar 
Boehm,  opposite  the  Sassoon  Institute. 
It  cost  £11,000,  and  was  presented  by 
Sir  A.  Sassoon  to  the  city  of  Bombay. 

Between  it  and  the  Queen's  statue  is 
the  Frere  Fountain,  a  fine  work,  which 
cost  £9000. 

In  the  garden  of  the  Elphinstone 

1  3^  For  farther  particulars,  see  lui^SiX  and 
Directory  at  the  end. 


16 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


Circle,  facing  the  Town  Hall,  are  statues 
of  Lord  ComtaalliSf  under  a  cupola,  and 
of  Lord  Wellesley,  by  Bacon,  much 
injured  by  the  effects  of  the  weather. 

On  the  edge  of  the  Maidan  and  close 
to  the  Public  Works'  Secretariat  are 
statues  of  Sir  Richard  Temple  and 
Lord  Beay. 

The  Mnsenm,  on  the  Farell  Road,  a 
handsome  building,  stands  about  100 
yds.  back  from  the  road.  Until  1867 
the  collection,  which  is  not  an  import- 
ant one,  was  kept  in  the  Fort  Barracks, 
but  on  Sir  G.  Bird  wood  being  appointed 
curator  by  Lord  Elphinstone,  he  raised 
a  subscription  of  a  lakh  for  building 
this  Museum.  Sir  B.  Frere  laid  the 
first  stone  in  1862,  and  Government 
completed  the  building  in  1871.  The 
Clock  Tower  in  front  of  it  wm  erected 
by  Sir  Albert  Sassoon.  There  is  a  fine 
statue  of  Prince  Albert  here  bv  Noble. 
The  Victoria  Gardens,  in  which  the 
Museum  stands,  have  an  area  of  84 
acres,  and  are  prettily  laid  out.  The 
beautiful  Bougainvillea  is  very  con- 
spicuous. VV^ithin  the  grounds  are  a 
Menagerie  and  Deer  Park.  The  band 
plays  nere  twice  a  week,  and  it  is  a  great 
resort  for  the  citizens.  The  municipal- 
ity keep  up  the  gardens  at  a  cost  of 
10,000  rs.  yearly. 

Markets. 

The  best  time  for  visiting  the  Markets 
is  early  in  the  morning,  about  7  o'clock, 
when  they  are  thronged  with  all  sorts 
and  conditions  of  men  and  women  in 
the  brightest  and  most  picturesque  cos- 
tumes. 

The  Crawford  Market  stands  in 
Market  Road,  which  is  approached  from 
Hornby  Row,  and  is  about  1 J  m.  N.  of 
Watson's  HoteL  This  market'  was 
founded  by  Mr.  Arthur  Crawford,  C.S., 
Municipal  Commissioner  from  1865 
to  1871.  (This  able  officer  got  the 
Slaughter  Houses,  which  at  the  com- 
mencement of  his  term  of  office  were 
near  the  market,  removed  to  Bandora 
in  Saisette. )  The  market  consists  of  a 
Central  Hall,  in  which  is  a  drinking- 
fountain  given  by  Sir  Cowasjee  Jehangir 
Beadymoney,  surmounted  by  a  Clock 
Tower,  128  ft.  high.  To  the  right  is 
a  wing,  150  ft.  by  100  ft,  in  which  are 


fruit  and  flowers,  and  on  the  left  is 
another  wing,  350  ft  by  100  ft,  for 
spices  and  vegetables.    The  whole  is 
covered  with  a  double  iron  roof.     The 
ground  is  paved  with  flag-stones  from 
Caithness.       ''In    that    collection   of 
handsome  and  spacious  halls  .  .  .  fish, 
flesh,  vegetables,    flowers,   fruit,   and 
general    commodities   are   vended   in 
separate  buildings  all  kept  in  admir- 
able order  and  cleanliness,  and  all  open- 
ing upon  green  and  shady  gardens" 
(Mwin  Arnold).    The  stalls  in  which 
the  leaves  of  the  Piper  betel  are  sold 
should  be  noticed.    These  leaves  are 
called  jMin,  and  the  betel-nut  is  called 
supari.      The  leaves  are  spread  with 
lime,  and  the  fruit  of  the  Areca  palm 
is  wrapped  in  them.     These  leaves  are 
chewed  by  the  natives,  and  make  the 
lips  and  the  saliva  red  and  the  teeth 
black.     There  are  many  kinds  of  plan- 
tains or  bananas,  but  the  best  are  snort, 
thick,  and  yellow.    The  best  oranges 
are  those,  from  Nagpur,  and  the  best 
grapes  are  from  Aurangabad.  The  black 
grape,  called  Hdbshi  (the  Abyssinian),  is 
the  most  delicious,  and  the  best  white 
grape  is  the  Sahibi.    The  mangoes  come 
in  in  May,  and  are  amongst  the  finest 
fruit  in  the  world :  two  or  three  iced 
form  a  delicious  adjunct  for  breakfast. 
The  best  are  grown  about  Mazagon  ; 
the  kind  most  esteemed  is  called  the 
**  Alphonse  "  ;  large  numbers  of  an  in- 
ferior quality  come  from  Goa.      The 
Pummelow,   the   Citrus  decumana,  is 
particularly  fine  in  Bombay,  very  cool- 
ing   and  wholesome,    but    somewhat 
astringent     The  Bombay  onions  are 
famous.     The  Beef  Market  is  built  of 
iron.    The  paving-stones  were  brought 
from  Yorkshire.     The  Fish  Market  is 
at  the  end  of  the  Mutton  Market.    The 
turtles  come  from   Karachi  in  Sind. 
The  oysters  are  of  moderate  size  and 
well  flavoured.    The  Palla  fish,  gener- 
ally about  2  ft.  long,  the  salmon    of 
India,  is  excellent     Its  flesh  is  light 
coloured,  and  has  many  troublesome 
bones.    The  best  fish  of  all  is  the  pom- 
flet,  or  pomfret,  called  Sarguialij  tibe 
black  kind  being  called  Hahoa,     This 
is  a  flat  fish,  about  the  size  of  a  large 
flounder.    The  best  are  caught  at  Vera- 
wal ;  they  are  very  cheap  and  whole- 


INDUSTRIAL  ARTS  AND  MANtJFAOTURES,  ETC. 


17 


Some.  The  Sv/rma,  with  projecting 
knoba,  are  not  equal  to  the  English 
flounder.  The  Bhui  MachMiiy  or 
mullet,  are  fairly  good.  The  guard- 
fish,  DaUbk,  long  and  very  thin,  are 
excellent,  but  the  flesh  has  a  greenish 
colour.  The  Bombil,  called  by  the 
English  BommeU)  and  Bombay  duck, 
is  a  glutinous  fish,  very  nice  when 
fresh,  and  much  used  when  salted  and 
dried.  Near  the  fountain,  with  its 
beautiful  shrubs,  are  seats  for  loungers. 
There  is  also  a  Coffee  House,  where 
servants  congregate,  and  which  clears 
1200  rs.  a  year.  On  the  S.  side  is  the 
Poultry  Market,  where  fowls,  ducks 
turkeys,  snipe,  curlew,  teal,  and  occa- 
sionally florican  may  be  purchased 
when  in  season, — the  last  excellent. 
This  market  cost  over  1,100,000  rs. 
The  crowd  in  the  Meat  and  Fish  Mar- 
kets early  in  the  morning  is  dense  and 
the  hubbub  deafening. 

The  Cotton  Market  is  held  near  the 
tramway  terminus  at  Colaba.  It  is  a 
sight  worth  seeing.  4, 000,000  cwts.  are 
annhally  exported,  and  half  that  amount 
is  made  use  of  in  the  Bombay  spinning- 
mills,  which  number  nearly  a  hundred. 

The  Ntd  Market,  between  Parell  and 
Duncan  Road,  supplies  a  large  part  of 
Bombay,  and  is  generally  immensely 
crowded.  M  en  and  women  may  be  seen 
purchasing  opium,  and  the  women  ad- 
roit that  they  give  it  to  their  infants. 

The  Pedder  Markets  at  Mazagon  are 
in  the  middle  of  a  garden. 

Indtjstrial  Arts  and  Manu- 
factures. 

In  Bombay  there  are  nearly  3000 
jewellers  of  the  different  Indian  nation- 
alities of  the  Presidency  who  find  con- 
stant and  lucrative  employment.  One  of 
the  most  active  industries  is  the  manu- 
facture of  brass  and  copper  pots  and 
other  utensils.  "  The  Copper  Bazaar, 
opposite  the  Mombadevi  Tank,  is  the 
Inuiest  and  noisiest,  and  one  of  the 
most  delightful  streets. "  ^  The  black- 
wood  carving  of  Bombay  is  famous, 
asd  sandal -wood  and  other  carving  is 
chiefly    carried    on    here,    also    inlay 

1  Sir  G.  Birdwood's  Industrial  ArU  of  India, 
which  see  for  (tirther  particulars. 
[India 


work;  indeed  the  term  "Bombay 
Boxes"  includes  sandal-wood  carviDff 
as  well  as  inlay  work.  Tortoise-shell 
carving  is  a  spedaliU,  also  lacquered 
turnery.  Gold  and  silver  thread  is 
manufactured  and  used  for  lace,  and 
Bombay  embroidery  is  much  prized. 
The  Bombay  School  of  Pottery  (ser 
above)  we  owe  to  the  exertions  of  Mr. 
Geo.  Terry,  who  has  developed  two 
original  varieties  of  glazed  pottery  there. 

Cotton, — The  development  of  cotton- 
spinning  during  the  last  30  years  is 
remarkable.  In  1870  there  were  10 
mills  in  the  Island  of  Bombay,  em- 
ploying some  8000  hands ;  there  are 
now  101  employing  more  than  110,000 
hands. 

The  traveller  who  is  at  all  fond  of 
the  picturesque  is  strongly  recom- 
mended not  to  leave  Bombay  without 
visiting  the  Native  Quarter.  The 
streets  and  bazaars  are  narrow  and 
tortuous,  but  clean  and  bright  in  the 
extreme.  Some  of  the  houses  are 
remarkably  fine  as  works  of  art,  and 
display  imdoubted  Portuguese  influ- 
ence. Their  fronts  are  covered  with 
carving,  and  in  some  cases  they  have 
projecting  stories  supported  upon  ela- 
borately sculptured  corbels.  Here  and 
there  are  mosaues  and  Hindu  temples 
gaudiljr  painted.  The  streets  teem  with 
life.  Sir  Edwin  Arnold  writes  of  them : 
"  A  tide  of  Asiatic  humanity  ebbs  and 
flows  up  and  down  the  Bhendi  bazaar, 
and  through  the  chief  mercantile 
thoroughfares.  Nowhere  could  be  seen 
a  play  of  livelier  hues,  a  busier  and 
brighter  cit^  life.  Besides  the  endless 
crowds  of  Hmdu,  Guzerati,  and  Maratha 
people  coming  and  going — some  in  gay 
dresses,  but  most  with  next  to  none 
at  all — between  rows  of  grotesquely 
painted  houses  and  temples,  there  are 
to  be  studied  here  specimens  of  every 
race  and  nation  of  the  East:  Arabs 
from  Muscat,  Persians  from  the  Gulf, 
Afghans  from  the  northern  frontier, 
black,  shaggy  Beluchis,  negroes  of 
Zanzibar,  islanders  from  the  Maldives 
and  Laccadives,  Malagashes,  Malays, 
and  Chinese  throng  and  jostle  with 
Parsis  in  their  sloping  hats,  with 
Jews,  Lascars,  fishermen,  Rajpoots, 
Fakirs,  Europeans,  Sepoys  and  Sahibs.' 
C 


18 


BOMBAY  ANB  ENVIRONS 


India 


Id  tlie  Bliendi  Bazaar  are  the  Arab 
Stables,  well  worth  a  visit  in  the  early 
momlDg,  not  only  for  the  sake  of  seeing 
some  of  the  finest  horses  in  the  East, 
but  to  see  the  Arabs  themselves  who 
bring  them  to  Bombay  for  sale. 

For  the  most  part  the  Hindu  Temples 
in  Bombay  are  quite  modem ;  but  at 
the  same  time  thej  are  picturesque  and 
particularly  strikmg  to  a  stranger  who 
has  not  been  in  Bombay  before.  Of 
these  the  most  important  is 

The  temnle  of  Walkeshwar  ''  Sand 
Lord/*  on  tne  W.  side  of  Malabar  Hill, 
close  to  Malabar  Point.  Throngs  of 
Hindus  will  be  met  coming  from  it, 
their  foreheads  newly  coloured  with 
the  sectarial  mark.  The  legend  says 
that  Rama,  on  his  way  from  Ayodhya 
(Oudh)  to  Lanka  (CeyloD),  to  recover 
his  bride  Sita,  carried  oft'  by  Ravana, 
halted  here  for  the  night  Lakshman 
provided  his  brother  Rama  with  a  new 
Lingam  direct  from  Benares  every 
night.  This  night  he  failed  to  arrive 
at  the  expected  time,   and  the    im- 

Eitient  Rama  made  for '  himself  a 
ingam  of  the  sand  at  the  spot  When 
the  one  from  Benares  arrived  it  was 
set  up  in  the  temple,  while  the  one 
which  Rama  had  made,  in  after  ages, 
on  the  arrival  of  the  Portuguese,  sprang 
into  the  sea  from  horror  of  the  bar- 
barians. There  is  a  small  but  verv 
Sicturesque  tank  here,  adorned  with 
ights  of  steps,  and  surrounded  by 
Brahmans'  houses  and  shrines.  This 
spot  well  deserves  a  visit ;  a  traveller 
will  nowhere  in  India  see  a  more  typical 
specimen  of  the  better  class  of  Hindu 
town  architecture.  It,  too,  is  not  with- 
out its  legend.  Rama  thirsted,  and 
there  being  no  water  here,  he  shot  an 
arrow  into  the  earth,  and  fo^th^vith 
appeared  the  tank,  hence  called  Fana- 
tirtha,  "  Arrow-Tank." 

A  Temple  of  less  importance  is  the 
Dwarkanath's  Temple,  close  to  the 
Esplanade,  on  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  road  that  leads  to  Parell,  and  a  little 
N.  of  the  Framji  Kausji  Institute, 
which  is  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
road. 

Entering  by  a  side  door  on  the  N., 

the  visitor  nnds  himself  in  a  room 

-q.  with  a  silver  door  at  the  end 


7  ft  high,  which  hides  from  view  the 
principal  idol.  There  are  many  ima^ 
and  paintings  of  Krishna  and  Badha, 
his  favouiite  mistress. 

There  is  a  group  of  MaMvMmM 
Temples  at  Breach  Candy,  and  others 
in  the  native  quarter  around  the  tanks 
of  Mombadevi  and  Chwalia, 

Shootiiig. — ^Tigers  and  panthers  m 
rather  numerous  in  the  ^onkan,  and 
may  be  found  occasionally  in  Salsette. 
At.  the  hill -fort  of  Tungarh,  about 
20  in.  from  Bombay,  tigers  are  occasion- 
ally to  be  found,  but  it  is  difficult  to  get 
accommodation  there,  as  there  are  only 
one  or  two  huts,  and  horses  picketed 
outside  are  likely  to  be  killed  during 
the  night.  Newcomers  should  en- 
deavour to  go  with  some  experienced 
sportsman,  by  whom  all  the  arrange' 
ments  should  be  made.  Snipe  an 
numerous  on  the  E.  side  of  Bombay 
Harbour  in  Panwell  Creek  and  othei 
places.  At  the  Vehar  Lake  and  Tamu 
and  close  to  Narel  wild  duck,  snipe 
hares,  and  partridges  are  to  be  found 
At  places  in  Gazerat  sonae  of  the  fines 

?uail,    snipe,   and   duck -shooting  u 
ndia  is  to  be  obtained. 

Railways,  Tramways,  and  Steanun 
— The  terminal  stations  of  the  tian 
ways  and  of  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  an 
Centra]  India  Railway  are  at  Colak 
J  m.  S.  of  Watson's  Hotel,  but  thei 
is  a  station  much  closer,  and  nearly  di 
W.  of  Watson's  Hotel,  called  Churd 
gate  Station,  whence  passengers  cansta 
for  any  places  reached  by  wie  B.  B.  ai 
C.  I.  line.  Those  who  are  living  in  tl 
northern  suburbs  will  go  of  com 
from  the  Byculla  Station,  or  fix)m  t 
Grant  Road  Station,  according  to  th< 
destination. 


Sights  in  the  Vicinity  of  BoMBi 


1.  Elephants. 

2.  Vehar  Lake. 

3.  Montpezir  Caves. 

4.  Cave   Temples  of 

Kanhari. 
6.  Sapara. 


6.  JogeshwarOav 

7.  Matheran. 

8.  The  TKDsa  Wa 

10.  G«rBoppa  Falls 


(1)  Elephanta  is  asmall  island  ab< 
6  m.  from  the  Fort  of  Bombay.  ] 
visiting  this  remarkable  place  ste 


SXGUR8I0N  TO  ELBPHANTA 


19 


Isonches^  can  be  hired  at  Apollo  Bandar, 
and  make  the  passage  in  about  1  or  1^ 
his.,  or  a  banoar-boat  may  be  hired  at 
from  3  to  5  rs.     In  this  case  the  length 
of  the  passage  will  depend  on  wind  and 
tide.    Or,  if  living  near  Mazagon,  the 
traveller  may  hire  a  boat  or  engage  a 
steam  launch  from  the  pier  there.    The 
boat  will  pass  close  to  Butcher's  Island, 
which  is  3  m.  nearly  due  E.  from  Maza- 
gon Dock.     Persons  coming  from  sea 
with  infectious  diseases,  such  as  small- 
pox, are  placed  in  quarantine  at  this 
island.     The  view  in  this  part  of  the 
harbour  is  beautiful.     To  the  N.  if  the 
hill  known  as  the  Neat's  Tongue,  on 
Trombav  island,  which  is  1000  ft  above 
sea-level.     The  ruins  of  an  old  Portu- 
guese chapel  at  Trubah  in  Trombay  are 
at  a  height  of  324  ft     The  highest 
|oint  of  Elephanta  is  668  ft.     There 
la  another  hill  400  ft  high  to  the  left 
pf  the  Caves  as  you  approach  them. 
[Elephanta  is  oaUed  by  the  natives 
Wharapuri  ("the  town  of  the  rock," 
gr  "of  purification,"  according  to  Dr. 
pilson)— according  to  Dr.  J.  Stevenson, 
hrapuHy  "the  town  of  excavations." 
Sie  caves  are  called  Lerien  (Lena)  by 
b  natives,  a  word  used  throughout 
^dia  and  Ceylon  for  these  excavations, 
tost  probably  on  account  of  the  first  of 
kfim  being  mtended  for  hermitages  of 
taddhist  ascetics.  The  island  is  covered 
Hh  low  corinda  bushes  and  Tal  palms. 
\  consists  of  two  long  hills,  with  a 
irrow  valley  between  them.     About 
iO  yards  to  the  right  of  the  old  landjuig- 
boe,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  island  on  the 
to  of  one  of  the  hills,  and  not  far  from 
rains  of  a  Portuguese  building,  was 
lass  of  rock,  cut  into  the  shape  of  an 
J^riiant,  from  which  the  place  derives 
lEuropean  name.    In  September  1814 
I  head  and  neck  dropped  o£r,  and  in 
ti  the  then  shapeless  mass  was  re- 
ived to  Bombay,  and  may  now  be 
a  in  the  Victoria  Gardens. 
Ihe  modem  landing-place  N.W.  of 
I  island  is  not  a  very  convenient  one. 
consists  of  a  rather  slippery  pier  of 
!terete  blocks.     The  caves  are  distant 

^Consult  Mesirs.  T.  Cook  &  Son.  Their 
■n  Imok^  makes  the  excursion  several 
Mt  ft  week,  and  makes  other  excursions  in 
Iksrboar. 


about  i  m.,  and  are  approached  by  easy ' 
steps,  constructed  in  1863  by  a  native 
merchant   at   a    cost   of    12,000   rs. 
There  is  a  bungalow  at  the  entrance, 
where  a  fee  of  4  annas  is  paid. 

The  time  when  these  caves  were  ex- 
cavated can  only  yet  be  guessed  at,  but 
it  is  generally  supposed  that  it  must 
have  been  some  time  between  the  9th 
and  11th  cents,  a.d.  The  disintegra- 
tion of  the  rock,  since  the  caves  were 
first  described  by  Niebuhr,  and  even 
during  the  last  80  years,  has  been  very 
considerable. 

The  entrance  into  the  temple  is  be- 
tween two  massive  pillars,  forming  three 
openings,  hewn  out  of  trap  rock,  over- 
hung by  brushwood  and  wild  shrubs. 
The  whole  excavation  consists  of  three 
principal  parts :  the  great  temple  itself, 
which  is  in  the  centre,  open  on  three 
sides,  and  two  smaller  chapels,  standing 
back  one  on  each  side  of  the  great 
temple,  but  not  perceived  on  approach-, 
ing  it  They  are  now  reachea  by  two 
narrow  miniature  passes  in  the  hill, 
one  on  each  side  of  the  grand  entrance, 
at  short  distances  from  it.  The  side 
fronts  are  exactly  like  the  principal 
one :  all  being  hollowed  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  and  each  fa9ade  supported  by  two 
huge  pillars  with  two  pilasters,  one  on 
each  side.  The  two  wings  of  the  temple 
have  no  covered  passage  to  connect 
them  with  it. 

The  left  side  of  the  great  cave  is  133 
ft.  in  length,  while  the  right  side  is 
only  128  ft.  4  in. ,  measuring  from  the 
chief  entrance  to  the  farthest  end. 
Irregularities  of  this  kind  are  to  be 
found  in  every  other  part,  although  the 
general  appearance  is  that  of  perfect 
regularity.  The  breadth  is  fully  130 
ft.  from  the  eastern  to  the  western 
entrance.  It  rests  on  26  pillars  (8  of 
them  now  broken)  and  16  pilasters; 
neither  the  floor  nor  the  roof  being  in 
one  plane,  it  varies  in  height  from  17 J 
to  16  ft.  The  plan  is  regular,  there 
being  seven  pillars  and  a  pilaster  in  a 
line  from  the  N.  entrance  to  the  S.  ex- 
treme of  the  temple,  and  six  together 
with  the  shrine  from  the  E.  to  the  W. 
entrances.  The  only  deviation  from 
this  regularity  in  the  chief  temple  is  the 
small  square  excavation  that  is  seen  to 


20 


BOMBAY  AND  XirviBONS 


tnik 


the  rt  on  going  up  the  temple ;  it 
occupies  the  place  of  four  pillars  and 
of  the  intermediate  space  enclosed  be- 
tween them.  This  is  the  Lingam  Shrine, 
It  is  19)  ft.  square,  with  four  doois 
facing  different  wa^.  Around  this 
shrine  on  the  outside  are  two  large 
figures  at  each  entrance,  representing 
doorkeepers,  who  lean  on  demon-dwarfs. 
The  Lingam  is  a  cylindrical  stone  2  ft. 
10  in.  in  diameter,  the  emblem  of  Shiva 
and  of  reproduction,  and  is  worshipped 
on  great  occasions  by  crowds  of  devotees. 
At  the  back  of  the  cave  there  are  two 
small  excavations  facing  each  other,  the 
one  on  the  right,  the  other  on  the  left ; 
their  use  is  not  well  ascertained  ;  they 
were  probably  employed  for  keeping 
the  temple  utensils  and  offerings.  The 
pillars,  which  all  appear  to  run  in 
straight  lines  parallel  to  each  other, 
and  at  equal  distances,  are  crossed  by 
other  ranges  running  at  ri^ht  angles ; 
they  are  strong  and  massive,  of  an 
order  remarkably  well  adapted  to  their 
situation  and  the  purpose  which  they 
serve. 

The  Great  Cave  at  Elephanta  is  what 
the  Hindus  call  a  Shiva  Lingam  Temple, 
a  class  of  sacred  buildings  very  common 
in  India.  The  natives  maintain  that 
this  cave  and  all  other  excavations  are 
the  works  of  the  sons  of  Pandu,  who 
constructed  them  while  wandering  about 
in  banishment  They  consider  that 
these  excavations  are  works  far  too 
mighty  for  mortals  to  have  constructed. 
The  Great  Cave  is  visited  by  crowds  of 
Hindus,  on  the  great  festival  of  Shiva 
in  the  latter  half  of  Febniary. 

Three-faced  Bust  J  or  Trimurti, — The 
chief  of  the  mural  figures  is  the  immense 
three-faced  bust,  19  ft.  in  height,  at 
the  far  end  of  the  Great  Cave,  facing 
the  N.  entrance.  It  is  the  representa- 
tion of  Shiva,  who  is  the  leading  char- 
acter in  all  the  eroups  of  the  cave.  The 
front  face  is  Shiva  in  the  character  of 
Brahma,  the  creator ;  the  E.  face  (spec- 
tator's 1.)  is  Shiva  in  the  character  of 
Rudra,  the  destroyer ;  and  the  W.  face 
(spectator's  rt.)  is  considered  to  be 
Shiva  in  the  character  of  Vishnu,  the 
preserver,  holding  a  lotus  flower  in  his 
hand. 

The  ArddhanarishvHir,  or  half -male 


haZf 'female  DivinUy  in  the  fint  eom- 
partment  to  the  £.  of  the  centnl  fignre 
(spectator's  L)  represents  Shiva,  16  ft. 
9  m.  high,  in  his  character  of  AiMhar 
narishwar.    The  right  half  of  the  figoie 
is  intended  to  be  that  of  a  male,  and 
the  left  that  of  a  female,  and  thus  to 
represent  Shiva   as   uniting  the  two 
sexes  in  his  one  person.     The  same 
tradition  is  represented  in  a  carving  at 
the  oaves  at  Badami.     Such  a  maoi- 
festation  of  Shiva  is  described  in  the 
Puranas.     The  bull  on  which  two  of 
the  hands  of  the  figure  lean,  and  on 
which  he  is  supposed  to  ride,  is  called 
NanoLL,  a  constant  attendant  on  Shiva. 
Brahma,  on  his  lotus  throne,  supported 
by  five  swans,  and  with  his  four  faces, 
is  exhibited  on  the  right  of  the  fignre. 
He  has  a  portion  of  all  these  faces 
visible.     On  the  left,  Vishnu  is  seen 
riding  on  what  is  now  a  headless  Garuda, 
a  fabulous  creature,  half  man  half  eagle. 
Above  and  in  the  background  are  fonnd 
a  number  of  inferior  gods  and  sages  of 
the  Hindus.    Indra,  I^rd  of  the  Finmr 
ment,  appears  mounted  on  an  elephant 

In  the  compartment  to  the  W.  of  the 
Trimurti  are  two  gigantic  figures  d 
Shiva  and  Parbati^  the  former  16  ft 
high,  the  Utter  12  ft  4  in.  Shiva  has 
a  high  cap,  on  which  the  crescent  anj 
other  symbols  are  sculptured,  and  from 
the  top  of  it  rises  a  cup  or  shell  on  whieii 
is  a  three-headed  figure  representing  tiic 
Ganga  proper,  the  Yamuna  and  SaraA^ 
wati,  wnich  three  streams  are  fabled  to 
unite  at  Prayag,  or  Allahabad,  and  form 
Uie  Ganges.  According  to  a  well-known 
Hindu  legend,  the  Ganges  flowed  fnmi 
the  head  of  Shiva.  The  god  is  standings 
and  has  four  arms,  of  which  the  outei 
left  rests  on  a  dwarf,  who  seems  to  bend 
under  the  weight.  In  the  dwarfs  right 
hand  is  a  cobra,  in  his  left  a  ehauri^ 
from  his  neck  hangs  a  necklace,  thi 
ornament  of  which  is  a  tortoise.  Qv 
Shiva's  right  are  several  attendante 
and  above  them  Brahma,  sculptunc 
much  as  in  the  compartment  on  thi 
right  of  the  Trimurti,  Between  BrahsM 
and  Shiva  is  Indra  on  his  elephaaf 
Airavata,  which  appears  to  be  kneeling 

Marriage  of  Shiva  and  FarbaH  it  i 
sculptured  group  (greatly  damaged)  i| 
the  end  of  the  W.  aisle.    The  poeitiai 


EXCDE8I0N  TO   ELEPHANTA 


21 


of  Parbati  on  the  rieht  of  Shiva  shows 
that  she  is  his  bride  ;  for  to  stand  on 
the  right  of  her  husband,  and  to  eat 
with  him,  are  privileges  vouchsafed  to 
a  Hindu  wife  only  on  her  wedding-day. 
Id  the  comer,  at  the  left  of  Shiva, 
is  Brahma,  known  by  his  four  faces, 
sitting  and  reading,  as  the  priest  of 
the  gods,  the  sacred  texts  suited  to 
the  marriage  ■  ceremony.  Above,  on 
Shiva's  left,  is  Vishnu.  Among  the  at- 
tendants on  the  right  of  Parbati  is  one 
beaiing  a  water-pot  for  the  ceremony. 
This  is  probably  Chandra  the  moon-god. 
Behind  the  bashful  goddess  is  a  male 
iignre,  probably  her  father  Himalaya, 
who  is  pushing  her  forward. 

Birih  of  Skarida  the  War-god^  is  a 
scul{>tm^  group  at  the  £.  end  of  the 
N.  aisle.  Shiva  and  Parbati  are  seated 
together,  with  group  of  male  and 
female  inferior  divinities  showering 
down  flowers  from  above,  the  rock 
being  cut  into  various  shapes  to  repre- 
sent the  clouds  of  Eailas,  Sbiva^s 
heaven.  Behind  Shiva  and  Parbati  is 
t  female  figure  carrying  a  child  on  her 
hip,  from  which  it  nas  been  supposed 
that  the  sculpture  represents  the  oirth 
of  Skanda,  the  war-god,  who  figures  so 
prominently  in  Kaudasa's  fine  poem, 
the  JTttmara  Sambhava  (sniritedly  trans- 
Ifttod  by  Gritfiths).  Dr.  Stevenson 
thought  Ganesha*  or  Ganpati,  the 
elephant-headed  god  of  wisdom  was 
perhaps  intended  here. 

RavaTia  attempting  to  remove  Kailas, 
—The  visitor  must  now  face  completely 
loond,  and  look  to  the  K.  instead  of 
the  S.,  and,  advancing  a  few  paces,  he 
will  come  in  front  of  the  sixth  compart- 
ment, which  is  to  the  right  of  the  eastern 
entrance.  Here  Bavana,  the  demon 
long  of  Lanka,  or  Ceylon,  is  attempting 
to  remove  Kailas,  the  heavenly  hiU  of 
I  Sura,  to  his  own  kingdom,  in  order 
tkat  he  may  have  his  tutelary  deity 
ihrays  with  him,  for  Bavana  was 
cror  a  woi'sMpper  of  Shiva.  Bavana 
Ui  10  heads  and  20  arms,  and  is  with 
\k  back  to  the  spectator.  Shiva  is  seen 
a  Kailas,  with  Parbati  on  his  right, 
ttd  votaries  and  Bishis  in  the  back- 
Aoond.  The  legend  runs  that  Bavana 
iviook  Kailas  so  much  that  Parbati  wpa 
iformed,  whereupon  Shiva  pressed  down 


the  hill  with  one  of  hi)  toes  on  the  head 
of  Bavana,  who  remained  immovable 
for  10,000  years. 

The  figure  of  Bhairava, — ^The  visitoi 
must  now  cross  over  to  the  opposite  side, 
passing  the  Lingam  shrine,  in  order  to 
arrive  at  the  correspondingcompartment 
on  the  W.  to  that  just  described  on  the 
£.  This  was  formerly  supposed  to  re- 
present the  sacrifice  of  Daksha,  and  is 
twice  depicted  at  Elora,  and  more  than 
once  at  the  Amboli  caves  in  Salsette. 
Daksha,  a  son  of  Brahma,  bom  from 
the  thumb  of  his  right  hand  for  the 

Surpose  of  peopling'  tne  world,  had  60 
aughters,  of  wnom  27  are  the  nymphs 
of  t^e  lunar  asterisms.  One  of  them, 
named  Sati  or  Durga,  married  Shiva, 
and  17  were  married  to  Kashyapa,  and 
were  the  mothers  of  all  created  oeings. 
Daksha  began  a  sacrifice  according  to 
the  ancient  Vaidik  ritual,  and  as  the 
gods  of  the  Yedas  alone  were  invited, 
Shiva  and  his  wife  were  not  asked  to 
attend.  Sati  went,  nevertheless,  un- 
biddeu,  and  being  badly  received,  threw 
herself  into  the  fire,  whereupon  Shiva 
made  his  appearance  in  his  most  terrific 
form  as  Vira  Bhadra,  which  manifesta- 
tion of  the  god  here  forms  the  principal 
figure  of  the  group.  '  He  dispersed  the 
gods  and  other  attendants  of  the  sacri- 
fice, and  seizing  Daksha  with  one  hand, 
decapitated  him  with  another,  while  in 
a  third  he  held  a  cup,  into  which  spouted 
the  blood.  The  head  was  hacked  to 
pieces;  but  when  Shiva's  wrath  was 
appeased,  he  put  the  head  of  a  ram  on 
Daksha's  body,  thus  keeping  him  ever 
in  mind  of  the  power  of  his  decapi- 
tator.  The  sculptui'e  may  or  mav  not 
have  a  special  reference  to  Daksha. 
It  is  doubtless  intended  to  repre- 
sent Shiva  in  one  of  his  usual  dreadful 
forms,  viz.,  that  of  Bhairava,  Mahakal, 
or  Eapalabhrit. 

Nateaiha  or  Tavdava, — Shiva  is  said 
to  perform  a  frantic  dance  at  eventide, 
attended  by  his  gatui  or  retinue  of 
demons,  stamping  with  mad  energy, 
when  the  dust  he  raises  is  put  on  their 
heads  by  the  other  gods.  Above  is  a 
very  perfect  Ganesh  with  elephant  head. 
Natesha  has  eight  arms,  which  are  all 
broken  but  one. 

Shiva  as  an  Ascetic^  the  last  group,  is 


22 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIBONB 


Inita 


to  the  left  of  the  grand  entrance.  Here 
Shiva  appears  as  a  Yogi,  and  the  figure 
so  much  resembles  Buddha  that  the 
early  desoribers  of  the  cave,  before 
Erskine,  thought!  t  to  be  that  person- 
age. The  figure  has  the  remains  of  two 
arms,  which  appear  to  have  rested  in 
his  lap.  It  is  seated  on  a  lotus,  the 
stalk  of  which  is  supported  by  two 
figures  below. 

The  W,  wingj  opposite  the  Lingam 
chapel  first  described,  and  across  a  court 
to  the  W.,  is  a  smaller  excavation  in 
the  face  of  the  hill  in  which  Ganesh  is 
seated  at  the  S.  extremity  with  a  com 
pany  of  Shiva's  attendants.  The  portico 
of  the  shrine  is  ornamented  with  a  good 
deal  of  sculpture. 

The  E,  wing  is  approached  by  a  few 
steps,  flanked  by  sculptured  lions,  lead- 
ing up  to  a  small  Lingam  chapel,  in 
which  are  no  figures. 

SuppleTnentary  Excavations, — Bound 
the  hill,  a  Uttie  to  ti^e  S.,  are  two  other 
excavations  fronting  the  E.  These  are 
also  Lingam  shrines,  with  Dtoarpals 
sculptur^  outside.  On  a  hill  opposite 
to  the  Great  Cave  is  a  small  cave,  and 
an  excavation  has  been  commenced  but 
without  much  progress  having  been 
made.  Since  this  some  steps  have  been 
unearthed  supposed  by  some  to  be  the 
original  ones  leading  to  the  sea. 

Dr.  Burgess's  account  of  the  caves, 
which  is  the  best,  was  published  in 
Bombay,  1871. 

(2)1  Vehar  Lake  (drive  15  m.)  from 
Bombay,  or  better  by  G.  L  P.  Rly. 
to  Bhandup,  17  m.  Arrange  with  the 
station-master  at  Bhandup  oeforehand 
to  have  a  pony  ready,  and  canter  to 
the  lake  in  half  an  hour,  turning  to 
the  rt.  at  a  signpost,  marked  3  m.  to 
Pawe,  a  village  belonging  to  a  Parsi, 
amidst  16,000  mango  trees.  From  the 
gateway  or  Darwazah  of  Pawe  it  is  2 
m.  to  the  lake  ;  the  jungle  is  very  thick 
part  of  the  way.  The  lake  covei-s  1400 
acres,  and  measures  2  x  1 J  m. ;  it  was 
made  by  Mr.  Conybeare,  C.E.,  by 
damming  up  the  Garpur  river.  It 
cost  £3/3,650  with  the  connecting 
pipes,  and  can  supply  8,000,000  gal- 
lons of  water  a  day.    The  embankment 

1  ExcursionR  2,  8,  4  ma^  all  be  done  in  one 


is  80  ft.  broad  and  80  ft.  above  the 
water.  The  water  is  76  ft.  deep,  of 
which  60  ft.  are  available  for  the 
supply  of  Bombay  and  26  ft.  are  kept 
for  soling.  Fish  are  nnmeroos,  par- 
ticularly singara  or  **  cat-fish."  There 
are  also  many  conger-eels,  which  grow 
8  or  9  ft  long.  There  are  many  teal 
on  the  lake,  but  it  is  very  difficult  to 
get  within  shot,  except  in  the  very 
early  morning.  Tigers  are  scarce  now, 
but  many  have  been  killed  there.  One, 
shot  by  Mr.  Robeitson,  C.S.,  had  killed 
16  persons. 

The  Tulsi  Lake,  which  lies  2  m.  to 
the  K.,  was  formed  in  1872,  at  a  cost 
of  £40,000,  and  water  is  carried  thence 
to  the  top  of  Malabar  HilL  2  m.  N. 
are  the  Kanheri  Caves. 

(8)  Montpezir  Caves    {Mandapesk- 
toar).—B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Railway- to  Bor- 
ItU  Station,  22)  m.,  thence  nde  1  m. 
Write  beforehand  to  the  station-master 
for  a  pony  and  coolie  to  carry  tiffin- 
basket      Good  clean  waiting-room  at 
Borivli.    Leaving  the  station,  proceed 
N".,  turning  at  about  200  vds.  to  the  I 
At  the  caves  is  a  ruined  Portuguese 
chm'ch,  with  a  cross  close  by.     i^und 
the  N.E.   corner  of  the  church   are 
three  caves  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  which, 
judging  from  the  pillars,  may  be  of  the 
9th  century.     The  cave  on  the  K  is 
57  ft  8  in.  X 18J  ft.     There  is  no  carv- 
ing inside,  but  there  are  two  pillars  in 
the  fa9ade  shaped  somewhat  like  the 
Ionic.    Adjoining  this  cave  to  the  W. 
is  a  stone  basin  for  water,  of  which 
there  is  a  g^ood  supply,  said  never  to 
fail,  and  this  may  oe  one  reason  why 
the  Portuguese  built  here.     The  next 
cave  is  27  ft  3  in.  xl4  ft  9  in.     In 
the  W.  wall  is  a  group  of  figures  very 
much  mutilated.     The  principal  figure 
has  four  arms,  and  is  said  to  be  Bhim, 
but  is  probably  Shiva,  with  26  Ganas. 
In  the  corner  of  the  outside  wall  is 
half  a  door  of  the  church,  of  teak,  with 
two  saints  carved  on  it    The  third  or 
W.  cave  is  locked,  but  the  key  can  be 
obtained  from  the  priest  |  ro.  off.     It 
was  probably  a  vihara  cave  in  which 
10  or  12  hermits  lived,  but  was  converted 
into  a  chapel  in  1566  a.d.     In  the  N. 
part  of  the  E.  wall,  upside  down,  is  the 
stone    originally    over    the    entrance 


CAVE  TEMPLES  OP  KANHARI 


23 


door,  inscribed  with  the  date  1555. 
At  the  N.W.  are  pillared  partitious 
leading  to  cells,  and  on  the  W.  side  are 
two  pUasters  and  four  pillars  about  12 
ft  high,  with  tapering  shafts  and  angular 
capitals.  To  the  S.,  on  an  eminence, 
is  a  round  tower  (40  ft.  high),  which 
the  priest  calls  a  Calvarium.  The 
staircase  is  on  the  outside,  and  in 
places  there  are  apparently  embi^asures 
for  eons.  The  people  about  say  it  was 
used  as  a  tower  of  defence.  There  is  a 
good  view  from  the  top  over  the  plain  ; 
and  about  4  m.  off  to  the  E.  is  the  hill 
in  which  are  the 


(4)  Cave  Tamples  of  Eanliari  ^  {Ken- 
I  nery). — These  caves  are  all  excavated  in 
'  the  face  of  a  single  hill  in  the  centre 
of  the  island  of  Salsette,  and  are  about 
j  5  m.  by  a  bridle  path  from.  Borivli 
I  Station  on  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Railway, 
2  m.  N.  of  the  dam  of  the  Tulsi  lake, 
I  and  6  m.  from  the  D.B.  at  Tanna  (see 
I  Ete.  1).  There  ai-e  109  of  these  caves  ; 
but  though  more  numerous,  they  are 
pronounced  by  Mr.  Fergusson^  to  be 
much  less  interesting  than  those  at 
Ajanta,  Elora,  or  Karli.  The  same 
authority  considers  that  the  greater 
part  of  them  in  India,  was  executed 
by  a  colony  of  Buddhists,  "who  may 
have  taken  refuge  here  after  being  ex- 
pelled from  the  continent,  and  who 
tried  to  reproduce  the  lost  Karli  in 
their  insular  retreat."  The  caves  date 
from  the  end  of  the  2nd  century  a.d. 
to  about  the  middle  of  the  9th,  or  pos- 
sibly a  little  later.  The  great  Chaitya 
is  one  of  the  earliest  here  ;  those  on 
each  side  may  be  2  centuries  later  :  the 
latest  is  probably  the  unfinished  one, 
which  is  the  fu-st  the  traveller  ap- 
pioaehes  by  the  usual  route,  and  which 
<Utes  about  the  9th  or  10th  century 
ID.,  or  is  even  still  more  recent.  How-. 
wer  this  may  be,  it  is  at  least  certain, 
that,  to  use  Heber's  words,  "the  beau- 
tifiil  situation    of   these  caves,   their 

1  The  best  and  most  complete  information 
"B  the  subject  of  these  caves  is  to  be  found  in 
Om  rmpfes  and  Buddhist  Caves,  by  James 
Borgess,  LL.D.,  D.C.L. 

2  /Jnclr.ct</  Temples  of  Indian  p.  34, 


elaborate  carving,  and  their  marked 
connection  with  Buddha  and  his  re- 
ligion, render  them  every  way  remark- 
able." ^ 

The  path  to  them  is  narrow,  and 
winds  along  the  sides  of  rocks,  but 
it  is  quite  possible  to  proceed  along 
it  in  palkis  or  on  horseback.  Most 
of  the  surrounding  hills  are  covered 
with  jungle,  but  the  one  in  which 
are  the  caves  is  nearly  bare,  its 
summit  being  formed  by  one  large 
rounded  mass  of  compact  rock,  under 
which  a  softer  stratum  has  been  de- 
nuded by  the  rains,  forming  natural 
caves,  which,  slightlv  improved  by 
art,  were  appropriated  as  cells.  The 
road  which  ascends  the  hill  leads  to 
a  platform  in  front  of  the  great  arched 
cave,  where  are  several  mounds  of 
masomy.  The  largest  of  them  was 
opened  b^  Dr.  Bird,  and  some  relics 
and  inscriptions  on  copper  were  found. 
This  is  the  first  stage  of  ascent  to 
the  caves,  which  consist  of  six  ranges, 
on  the  ledges  of  the  mountain,  con- 
nected with  each  other  by  footsteps 
cut  in  the  rock.  The  ascent  is  gradual 
until  within  a  few  hundred  yards 
of  the  southernmost,  when  the  path 
becomes  steep  and  imgged,  and  so 
closely  shaded  with  shrubs  and  lofty 
trees  as  to  conceal  every  appearance 
of  the  caves  imtil  the  traveller  is 
actually  in  front  of  them.  In  the 
first  which  comes  in  view  two  massive 
columns,  of  the  same  order  as  those 
at  Elephanta,  support  a  plain  solid 
entablature,  above  which  an  oblong 
square  is  hollowed  out.  Within  are 
two  anterooms,  and  beyond,  an  un- 
finished chamber,  26  ft.  deep.  The 
front  screen  has  three  doors,  and  three 
windows  over  them,  and  the  partition 
between  the  second  and  the  inner 
chamber  has  likewise  three  doors,  and 
over  the  centre  one  a  large  open  arch, 
rising  nearly  to  the  roof.  Salt  thinks 
that  the  workmen  began  this  cave 
from  the  top,  and  worked  downwards. 
There  are  no  figures  or  carvings  here, 

1  A  good  account  of  the  Eanhari  caves  Jif 
given  by  Salt,  p.  47,  vol.  i.,  Transactions  of 
the  Literary  Society  of  Bombay,  which  is  here 
followed,  corrected  by  Dr.  Burgess's  i^ccoun^ 
in  Cave  Tempiesi  of  India., 


24 


BOVBAT  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


and  the  details  are  of  little  interest. 
Fergusson  supposes  it  to  be  the  latest 
excavation  in  the  hill,  and  to  date  in 
the  9th  or  10th  century  A.D.,  or  even 
later. 

From  this  a  vihara,  oonsistinff  of  a 
long  irregular  verandah  with  cells  at 
he  back  extends  in  a  direction  from 
S.W.  to  N.K  to  the  Great  Cave,  from 
which  it  is  divided  by  a  partition, 
so  thin  that  it  has  been  broken  through 
by  some  accident.  It  contains,  and 
this  is  the  chief  point  of  interest,  two 
sanctuaries,  in  which  are  dagobas,  or 
solid  masses  of  stone  or  earth,  in  the 
form  of  a  cupola.  The  most  southern 
of  these  stands  in  a  recess,  the  three  sides 
of  which  are  divided  into  panels  on 
which  are  carved  one,  two,  or  more 
figures  of  Buddha  and  of  Bodhisatwas  in 
various  attitudes.  Behind  the  northern 
dagoba  Buddha  is  represented  on  a 
lion -throne,  which  rests  on  a  lotus, 
whose  stalk  is  supported  by  two  boys 
with  hoods  like  that  of  the  cobra. 
From  the  main  stem  spring  two  others, 
on  which  are  two  youths  with  the  fans 
cabled  chauri,  and  one  with  a  lotus-head 
in  his  hand.  Above  are  two  flyingfigures, 
and  two  of  priests  below,  and  a  group  is 
thus  formed,  the  fac- simile  of  which 
is  seen  at  Earll  and  Ajanta. 

The  Great  Ghaitya  Cave  joins  this 
verandah  in  the  manner  just  men- 
tioned ;  it  resembles  the  gi-eat  cave  at 
Karli.  Figures  of  Buddha  23  ft  high 
occupy  both  extremities.  On  the  jamb 
of  the  entrance  to  the  verandah  is  an 
inscription  of  Oautamiputra  II.,  in 
the  4th  cent.  A.B.  In  front  of  the 
cave  itself  is  a  portal,  and  after  that  a 
vestibule.  Between  the  verandah  and 
the  Gheai  Cave  is  a  small  tank.  Five 
steps  lead  up  to  the  portal,  which  opens 
into  a  court,  where  are  two  lofty 
columns,  that  on  the  i-t.  surmounted 
by  4  lions  couchant.  Its  pedestal  is 
cut  into  panels  and  supports  an  image 
of  Buddha,  whose  head  is  canopied  by 
five  heads  of  the  hooded  snake.  The 
left  column  has  three  dwarf  figures  on 
the  top,  which  once,  perhaps,  supported 
a  wheel.  The  whole  space  at  the  farther 
end  of  the  portico  is  occupied  by  the 
front  face  of  the  cave,  which  is  divided 
hv  «1qiti  cohimns  into  three  scjuare 


portals  beneath  and  five  open  windows 
above,  beyond  which  is  the  vestibule. 
On  the  right  and  left  of  the  vestibule, 
in  recesses,  are  gigantic  statues  of 
Buddha,  23  ft  high.  The  interior 
temple  again  is  parted  from  the  vesti- 
bule by  a  second  screen,  the  figures  of 
which,  like  all  the  carving  of  this  cave, 
are  most  slovenly.  The  pillars  that 
surround  the  nave  are  of  the  same 
order  as  those  at  Karli,  but  much 
inferior  in  execution.  Six  on  one  side 
and  11  on  the  other  have  capitals  orna- 
mented with  figures  of  elephants  pour- 
ing water  from  jars  on  the  sacred  bo 
tree  or  on  dagobas,  and  boys  with 
snake  heads  are  also  introduced.  The 
nave  terminates  in  a  semicircle,  and 
at  this  end  is  a  dagoba. 

Mr.  Ferj;usson  is  of  opinioil  that  this 
Great  Chaitya  Cave  was  excavated  after 
the  vihara,  and  that  the  three  dagobas 
existing  at  its  threshold  are  more 
ancient  than  the  cave  itself.  As  the 
spot  had  been  regarded  as  sacred  owing 
to  them,  some  devotee,  he  thinks,  deter- 
mined on  excavating  a  great  temple 
behind  and  between  them. 

The  Durbar  Cave, — Proceeding  a 
little  to  the  K.E.  from  the  cave  just 
described,  and  turning  to  the  rt. 
round  an  angle  of  the  rock,  there  is  a 
Ions  winding  ascent  by  steps  cut  in  the 
rock,  leading  to  many  smaller  caves  in 
a  ravine  through  ^rhich  a  strong  moun- 
tain torrent  pours  in  the  rainy  season. 
There  are  ranges  of  caves  at  different 
heights  on  both  sides  the  ravine,  com- 
municating by  steps  with  one  another, 
and  above  are  the  remains  of  a  dam 
erected  across  the  ravine,  by  which  a 
capacious  reservoir  was  once  formed. 
Tne  first  cave  on  the  rt.  hand  is  the 
so-called  Durhar  Cave,  or  "Cave  of 
Audience,"  the  finest  vihara  of  the 
series,  and  the  only  one  that  can  com- 
pete in  size  with  those  at  Ajanta.  It 
IS  96  ft.  6  in.  long,  and  42  ft.  3  in. 
deep,  exclusive  of  the  cells.  Immedi- 
ately opposite  is  a  vast  excavation,  in 
which  are  a  few  fragments  of  columns 
hanging  to  the  roof. 

Upper  Caves. — ^Ascending  still  higher 

from  the  platform  of  the  Great  Cave, 

the  traveller  comes  to  20  or  30  exca- 

•  vations,  containing  nothing  of  note. 


8APAEA— JOGEBHWAR  CAVE 


25 


[  Above  these  again  is  another  series  of 
j  Yiharas,  of  which  several  are  very  inter- 
esting, their  walls  being  entirely  covered 
with  figures,  finely  executed.  The 
eeneral  design  is  Buddha  seated  on  a 
I  lotus.  Remains  of  plaster  and  painting 
I  are  seen  here  and  there.  Mr.  Fergusson 
remarks  on  the  peculiar  head-dj^  of 
the  principal  figure  in  some  of  the 
groups,  which  he  had  not  noticed  else- 
where, and  observes  also  that  this 
figure  is  attended  by  two  female  figures, 
whereas  the  true  Buddha  is  always 
attended  by  men.  This  is  Padmapani 
or  Avalokiteshwai*,  one  of  the  Bodhi- 
satvas  of  later  Buddhism,  attended  bv 
two  Taras.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  hill 
is  a  broad,  long,  and  level  terrace, 
commanding  a  very  fine  view  of  the 
surroimding  country.^ 

The  following  passage  from  Dr. 
Bird's  book  refers  to  a  discovery  of 
great  importance  made  by  him  : — 

"The  tope  at  Kanhari,  which  was 
opened  by  me  in  1839,  appeared  to  have 
been  originally  12  or  16  ft.  in  height, 
and  of  a  p^midal  shape ;  but  being 
much  dilapidated,  formed  exteriorly  a 
heap  of  stones  and  rubbish.  The  largest 
of  several  being  selected  for  examma- 
tion,  was  penetrated  from  above  to  the 
base,  which  was  bnilt  of  cut  stone. 
After  digging  to  a  level  with  the  ground 
and  clearing  away  the  loose  materials, 
the  workmen  came  to^  a  circular  stone, 
hollow  in  the  centre'  and  covered  at 
I  tlie  top  by  a  piece  of  gypsum.  This 
contained  l!wo  small  copper  urns,  in 
one  of  which  were  a  ruby,  a  pearl, 
and  small  piece  of  gold  mixed  with 
ashes.  In  this  urn  there  was  also  a 
small  gold  box  containing  a  piece  of 
cloth,  and  in  the  other,  ashes  and  a 
silver  box  were  found.  Outside  the 
drcular  stone  there  were  two  copper 
plates,  on  which  were  legible  inscrip- 
tions in  the  Lai  or  cave  character. 
The  smaller  of  the  plates  had  tvvo  lines 
of  writing  in  a  character  similar  to  that 
met  with  at  the  entrance  of  the  Ajanta 
caves ;  the  larger  one  was  inscribed 
with  letters  of  an  earlier  date.    The 

iTbe  inscriptiODS  at  Kanhari  have  been 
translated  by  Dr.  Buhler  in  Dr.  James  Bur- 
gess's elaboimte  work  already  referred  to  on 
Cave  Temples  and  Buddhiai  Caves. 


last  part  of  the  first-mentioned  insorip- 
tion  contained  the  Buddhist  creed,  as 
found  on  the  base  of  the  Buddha  image 
from  Tirhut,  and  on  the  stone  taken 
from  the  tope  of  Samathf  near  Benares." 
The  most  curious  fact  of  all  connected 
with  Kanhari  is  the  existence  there  in 
ancient  times  of  a  tooth  of  Buddha. 
The  cave  over  which  inscription  7 
of  those  mentioned  by  Stevenson  is 
engraved,  is  called  Sakadatya-lena,  the 
**  Buddha- tooth  Cave,"  probably  be- 
cause the  relic  was  there  temporarily 
deposited,  while  the  tope  in  which  it 
was  finally  lodged  was  being  prepared 
(see  p.  27). 

(5)  Sapara  is  a  village  W.  of  the  B.  B. 
and  C.  I.  Railway  3  m.  N.  W.  ofBaasein 
Jtoad  station  on  that  line.  A  Buddhist 
tope  at  this  place  was  opened  which 
yielded  some  highly  interesting  relics, 
now  to  be  seen  in  the  great  room  of 
the  Asiatic  Society  in  the  Town  Hall, 
Bombay.  The  subject  is  worthy  of  the 
study  of  Orientalists  and  the  continued 
research  of  travellers. 

(6)  Jogeshwar  Oaye.>-G  m.  S.  of 
Magathana  Caves,  and  2  m.  N.£.  of  the 
village  of  Jogeshwar  (about  1  m.  from 
Goregaon  sta.  on  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I. 
line).  Mr.  Burgess  attributes  these 
caves  to  the  latter  half  of  the  8th 
cent.  ;  next  to  those  at  Elora  they 
are  the  largest  in  India,  being  320  ft. 
long  by  200  ft.  broad.  The  W.  en- 
trance is  that  now  used ;  but  the 
decorations  on  the  E.  side  are  more 
carefully  executed,  and  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  was  probably  there. 
Over  the  sloping  path  that  leads  to 
the  W,  entrance  a  natural  arch  is 
formed  hj  the  branches  of  a  banyan 
tree,  which,  shooting  across,  have 
taken  root  on  the  other  side,  and 
render  the  approach  singularly  pic- 
turesque. Eight  steps  lead  down  to 
a  small  anteroom,  in  which  the  figures 
are  greatly  decayed.  A  door  leads  into 
the  Great  Cave,  and  above  this  are  two 
figures  in  the  attitude  in  which  Rama 
and  Sita  are  often  represented.  The  tall 
figures  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  are 
exactly  like  the  dwarapals&t  Elephanta. 
The  Great  Cave  is  120  ft.  square,  and 
18  ft.  from  the  door  are  20  pillars  of  the 
same  order  as  at  Elephanta,  forming 


26 


BOMBA.T  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


an  inner  sqnare.  Within  there  is  a 
ohamber  24  ft.  sq.,  with  4  doors.  This 
is  a  temple  sacred  to  Mahadeva.  On 
the  walls  are  the  vestiges  of  many 
figures.  Over  the  door  at  the  E.  en- 
trance is  the  curious  design  of  a  monster, 
the  makara,  with  the  mouth  of  a  hippo- 

Eius,  trunk  of  an  elephant,  ana  a 
n's  tail,  which  appears  to  Tomit 
a  sculptured  group,  representing 
some  scene  of  Shaiva  mythology.  From 
this  entrance  two  vestibules  lead  to 
three  doorways,  which  again  open  into 
the  Great  Cave.  Over  the  doorways  are 
some  curious  designs,  as,  e.g.  over  the 
centre  one  a  figure  resembling  Buddha, 
and  on  one  side  a  guardian  leaning  on 
a  dwarf,  who  grasps  in  his  hands  two 
enormous  snakes  that  are  closely  twined 
round  his  body. 

(7)  Hatlieran.— 54  m.  from  Bombay 
by  G.  I.  P.  Ely.  (see  Rte.  24). 

(8)  The  Tanaa  Water  Supply  (D.B. 
G.  I.  P.  Eljr.  to  Atgaon  sta.,  69  m.)— 
The  increasing  ponulation  of  Bombay 
led  the  mumcipality  to  construct  a 
still  larger  reservoir  on  the  Tansa 
River,  about  60  m.  N.E.  of  Bombay, 
which  was  formally  opened  by  H.E. 
the  Viceroy,  Lord  Lansdowne,  in  March 
1892.  The  Dam  which  encloses  the 
watershed  of  the  Tansa  River,  com- 
pleted 1891,  is  the  largest  piece  of 
masonry  of  modem  times.  It  is  of  a 
uniform  height  of  118  ft.,  and  is  2  m. 
long,  103  ft.  thick  at  the  base,  and  24 
ft  at  the  top,  where  a  flagged  road  runs 
eJongit.  It  encloses  a  Lake  8  sq.  m. 
in  area,  and  is  capable  of  supplying 
33,000,000  gallons  daily  (Engineer,  Mr. 
W.  Gierke;  Contractoi-s,  Mr.  T.  C. 
Glover,  and  Messrs.  Walsh,  Lovatt, 
and  Co.) 

(9)  Karli.— 85  m.  from  Bombay; 
caves  6  m.  from  rly.  sta.  (see  Rte.  24). 

(10)  Gersoppa  Falls  (D.B.)— From 
Bombay  by  steamer  to  Karwar.  From 
Karwar  to  Honawar  (D.B.)  by  **man- 
chul,"  52  m.,  15  rs.  ;  Honawar  to  Ger- 
soppa, 18  m.,  by  native  boat  up  a 
shallow  river  to  Rule  ;  Gersoppa  to  the 
Falls,  18  m.,  by  manchul,  4-8  rs. 
Write  beforehand  to  the  Mamlatdar  at 
Karwar  for  manchul,  and  to  the  Mam- 
latdar at  Honawar  to  make  arrange- 
ments.     'There   are  in   all  4  falls, 


which  have  been  called  the  Great  Fall, 
the  Roarer,  the  Rocket,  and  the  Dame 
Blanche.  In  the  first  of  these  the 
water,  in  considerable  volume,  makes 
a  sheer  leap  down  of  829  ft.,  and 
falls  into  a  pool  132  ft.  deep."  The 
others  are  all  in  line  with  this,  across 
the  river,  which  is  of  great  widtJi.  The 
scenery  up  the  valley  and  the  ghat  to 
the  Falls  is  superb,  but  road  is  veiy 
malarious  until  Dec.  or  Jan.,  by  which 
time  the  Falls  have  run  out  a  great  deal 
Provisions  should  be  taken.  This  is  a 
long  and  somewhat  toilsome  joamey; 
for  full  particulars  see  Rte.  28.^ 


ROUTE  1. 


Bombay  to  Calcutta  by  Nasik, 
Caves  of  Ajanta,  Jabalpur, 
Allahabad,  and  Benares. 

BaU,  1400  m.  (G.  I.  P.  B.  and  E.  I.  R) :  mail 
train  46  hours. 

The  rule  for  breaking  journeys  on 
Indian  railways  allows  the  traveller  to 
spend  16  days  on  the  journey  from 
Bombay  to  Calcutta  with  one  tnrough 
ticket.  Cost,  1st  class  91  rs.  11  as.,  2nd 
class  45  rs.  14  as. ,  and  servants  16  rs.  8a8. 
Luggage  beyond  a  small  allowance  is 
extra.  The  85  m.  between  Bombay  and 
Igatpuri  are  by  far  the  most  pictuiisque 
on  the  whole  line  between  tne  western 
and  eastern  capitals,  but  unfortunately 
the  mail  train  each  way  passes  over 
the  best  part  of  this  in  the  dark.  The 
traveller  can  arrange  to  see  it  by  day- 
light, on  the  eastward  journey,  by  pre- 
ceding the  mail.  He  should  leave  by 
the  midday  train  and  reach  I^tpuri 
in  the  evening,  rejoining  the  mail  train 
at  that  place  at  night,  and  on  the 
westward  journey  he  should  wait  at 
Igatpuri  for  a  slow  train. 

1  See  also  Dr.  George  Smith's  Life  of  John 
WOsm,  F.HS. 


ROUTE  1.'    TANNA KALYAN 


27 


On  leaving  Bombay,  between  Sion 
and  Coorla,  the  railway  passes  on  a 
causeway  from  the  island  of  Bombay 
to  the  larger  island  of  Salsette. 

9  m.  Coorla  sta.  Close  by,  rt.,  are 
the  once  famoas  cotton-mills. 

21  m.  Taana  (Thana)  sta.,  D.B. 
An  early  Portuguese  settlement,  com- 
manding the  most  frequented  passage 
from  the  mainland  to  the  island  of  Sal- 
sette. Marco  Polo  (1298  A.D.)  says, 
**  Tana  is  a  great  kingdom  lying  towards 
the  west  .  .  .  There  is  much  traffic 
here,  and  many  ship  and  merchants 
frequent  the  place.  In  1320  four 
Christian  companions  of  Friar  Odoricus 
here  suffered  martyrdom.  Friar  Jor- 
danus  narrates  that  he  baptized  about 
90persons  ten  days*  journey  from  Tanna, 
besides  35  who  were  baptized  between 
Tanna  and  Supara. 

The  country  round  Tanna  was  highly 
caltiyate4,  and  was  studded  with 
mansions  of  the  Portuguese  when,  in 
1737,  it  was  wrested  from  them  by  the 
Marathas.  In  1774  the  Portuguese  sent 
a  formidable  armament  from  Europe 
for  the  avowed  object  of  recovering 
their  lost  possessions.  The  Government 
of  Bombay  determined  to  anticipate 
their  enterprise,  and  to  seize  upon  the 
island  for  the  English.  A  force  was 
{Spared  under  General  Robert  Gordon, 
indTannawas  taken  after  a  siege  of  three 
days.  On  6th  March  1775  the  Peshwa 
Bj^hoba  by  the  Treaty  of  Bassein  ceded 
the  island  of  Salsette  in  perpetuity. 
In  1816  Trimbakji  Danglia,  the  cele- 
brated minister  of  Baji  Rao,  the  last 
Peshwa,  effected  his  escape  from  the 
fort  of  Tanna,  though  guarded  by  a 
strong  body  of  European  soldiers.  The 
diflScmties  of  this  escape  were  greatly  ex- 
aggerated all  over  the  Maratha  country, 
ind  it  was  compared  to  that  of  Shivaji 
bom  the  power  of  Aurangzib.  The 
Drincipal  agent  in  this  exploit  was  a 
Maratha  horse-keeper  in  the  sei-vice 
of  one  of  the  English  officers  of  the 

C'lon,  who,  passing  and  re-passing 
bakji's  cell,  as  ^  to  ezerci««e  his 
master's  horse,  sang  the  infonnation 
he  wished  to  convey  in  a  careless 
manner,  which  disarmed  suspicion. 
Bishop  Heber,  who  had  seen  Trimbakji 
imprisoned  in  the  fort  of  Chunar,  was 


much  interested  in  this  escape,  and 
writes — 

"The  groom's  singing  was  made 
up  of  verses  like  the  following : — 

"  Behind  the  bash  the  bowmen  hide, 
The  horse  beneath  the  tree, 
Where  shall  I  find  a  knight  will  ride 
The  Jungle  paths  with  me  ? 

'*  There  are  five  and  flftj  coursers  there, 
And  four  and  fifty  men ; 
When  the  flfty-lifth  shaU  mount  his  steed, 
The  Deccan  thrives  again. " 

Heber  adds  that  Tanna  is  chiefly  in- 
habited by  Roman  Catholic  Christians, 
either  converted  Hindus  or  Portuguese, 
who  have  become  as  black  as  the 
natives  and  assume  all  their  habits  ;  he 
also  describes  the  place  as  neat  and 
flouiishing,  and  famous  for  its  breed  of 
hogs,  and  the  manner  in  which  the  Por- 
tuguese inhabitants  cure  bacon.  The 
English  Church  was  being  built  when 
he  arrived,  and  on  10th  July  1826  was 
consecrated  by  him.  In  the  16th  cent, 
the  SUk  Industry  here  employed  about 
6000  persons.  It  is  now  confined  to 
only  7  Portuguese  families  and  14  looms. 

[Tanna  is  the  best  starting-place  for  * 
the  Caves  of  Kanhari,  excavated  in 
one  of  the  hills  of  the  island  of  Sal- 
sette. It  is  about  6  m.  drive  in  a 
bullock-gharry  to  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
There  are  109  oaves  in  all,  and  the 
largest  is  90  ft.  x  40  ft.  (see  Environs 
of  Bombay  at  the  beginning  and  p.  23).  ] 

88  m.  Kalyan  junct.  sta.  (R.)  Here 
the  Madras  line  through  Poena  and 
Raichur  branches  off  S.E.  (Rte.  22). 
This  is  a  very  ancient  town,  and  in 
early  times,  no  doubt,  was  the  capital 
of  an  extensive  province.  In  1780, 
the  Marathas  having  cut  off  the 
supplies  from  Bombay  and  Salsette, 
the  British  Government  determined 
to  occupy  the  Eonkan  opposite  Tanna, 
as  far  as  the  Ghats.  Accordingly, 
several  posts  were  seized,  and  Kalyan 
amongst  them ;  and  here  Captain 
Richard  Campbell  was  placed  with 
a  garrison.  Nana  Famavis  forthwith 
assembled  a  large  force  to  recover 
Kalyan,  on  which  he  set  a  high  value, 
and  his  first  operations  were  verv 
successful.  He  attacked  the  English 
advanced  post  at  the  Ghats,  and 
killed  or  made  prisoners    the    whole 


28 


ROUTE  1.      BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


detachment.  He  then  compelled  En- 
sign Fyfe,  the  only  surviving  officer, 
to  write  to  Captain  Campbell  that, 
unless  he  surrendered,  he  would 
put  all  his  prisoners,  26  in  number, 
to  death,  storm  Kalyan,  and  put 
all  the  garrison  to  the  sword.  To 
this  Campbell  replied  that,  "the 
Nana  was  welcome  to  the  town  if 
he  could  take  it."  After  a  spirited 
defence,  he  was  relieved  by  Colonel 
Hartley,  on  the  24th  May,  just  as 
the  Marathas  were  about  to  storm. 
The  remains  of  buildings  roimd 
Kalyan  are  very  extensive ;  and  Fryer, 
who  visited  the  place  in  1678,  "gazed 
with  astonishment  on  ruins  of  stetely 
fabrics  and  many  traces  of  departed 
magnificence."  A  few  miles  8.  is  the 
fine  10th  century  temple  of  Amber- 
natb  (p.  318). 

Between  Kalyan  and  Igatpuri,  the 
railway  ascends  from  the  Konkan  to 
the  Deccan  plateau  by  the  mountain- 
pass,  known  as  the  Tal  (Thull)  Ohat. 

75  m.  Easara  sta.  (R.)  Here  a 
special  engine  is  attached  and  the 
iLScent  of  we  Ghat  begins.  In  9^  m. 
the  line  ascends  1050  ft. 

At  79J  m.  is  the  reversing  station, 
and  the  ascent  terminates  at  85  m. 
Igatpuri,  jjc  D.B.  (R.),  where  the  special 
engine  and  brakes  are  removed. 

The  ajBcent  of  the  Tal  Ghat  is  at  all 
seasons  interesting ;  but  it  is  most 
beautiful  in  September  owing  to  the 
wild  flowers.  The  leaves  are  then 
bright  green,  and  the  country  below 
the  Ghats  is  all  streams,  pools,  and 
inundations  ;  the  Ghats  themselves 
all  cascades  and  torrents.  Igatpuri, 
properly  Wigatpura,  "  the  town  of  dif- 
ficulties," so  called  on  account  of  the 
precipitous  road  that  preceded  the 
railway,  is  a  pleasant  sanitorium  and 
summer  resort  of  Europeans  from  Bom- 
bay. Some  large  game  is  to  be  found 
in  the  neighbourhood.  There  are 
several  European  bungalows  belonging 
to  railway  officials.  The  line  passes 
through  a  comparatively  level  country, 
with  low  mountains  on  either  side,  to 

113  m.  Deolali  sta.  A  halting- place 
for  troops  arriving  from  or  proceeding 
to  Europe.    There  are  barracks  for  1000 


117  m.  VASIK  Boad  sta.,  ^  D.B. 
(The  Nasika  of  Ptolemy,) 

A  tramway  conveys  passengers  to 
the  town,  D.B.  (1900  ft.  above  sea- 
level),  5J  m.  N.W.  of  the  sta.  Pop. 
85,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  sacred 
places  of  the  Hindus;  1800  families 
of  Brahman  priests  are  settled  here. 
It  is  said  that  Lakshman,  the  elder 
brother  of  Rama,  cut  off  the  nose 
of  Sarpnakha,  Ravana's  sister  ;  and  as 
Nasika  in  Sanskrit  is  "a  nos^"  the 
place  hence  got  its  name.  The  real 
cause  of  the  sanctity  of  Nasik,  however, 
is  its  position  on  the  bi^ks  of  the  sacred 
river  Godavari,  about  19  m.  from  its 
•source  at  Trimbak. 

Nasik  may  be  called  the  Western 
Benares,  as  the  Godavari  is  termed  the 
Ganga—**  Ganges."  All  Hindus  of 
rank  on  visiting  it  leave  a  record  of 
their  visit  with  their  Upadhya,  or 
"family  priest,"  for  each  nobje  family 
has  such  a  priest  at  each  celebrated 
place  of  pilgrimage.  In  this  record 
arc  entered  the  names  of  the  visitor's 
ancestors,  and  thus  the  pedigree  of 
every  Hindu  chief  is  to  be  found  in  the 
keeping  of  these  Upadhyas.  Even 
Jang  Bahadur,  the  late  de  facto  ruler 
of  Nipal,  had  his  Upadhya  at  Nasik. 
The  present  Gaekwar  owes  his  seat  on 
the  throne  to  this  custom,  for  when 
the  Gaekwar  of  Baroda  was  deposed 
and  an  heir  sought  for,  the  family 
Upadhya  at  Nasik  supplied  proofs  of 
the  young  prince's  legitimate  descent 
from  Pratap  Rao,  brother  of  Danmji, 
the  third  Gaekwar. 

The  Snndar  Narayau  Temple  was 
built  by  one  of  Holkar's  Sardars  in 
1725.  It  is  smaller  than  that  of  the 
Black  Rama  (see  below),  but  a  miracle 
of  art.  Below  it  may  be  seen  the 
temples  of  Balaji  and  of  the  White 
Bama,  and  the  Memorial  erected  to  the 
Kapurthala  Rajah,  who  died  in  1870 
near  Aden,  on  his  way  to  Europe. 
From  Sundar  Narayan  Temple  the  river 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge,  completed  in 
1897,  which  cost  Rs.  1.81.000. 

At  Nasik  the  river,  here  80  yds,  broad, 
is  lined  on  either  side  for  a  distance  of 
400  yds.  with  flights  of  steps,  and  dotted 
with  temples  and  shrines,  and,  as  in 
most  Indian  cities  situated  near  flowing 


ft6tJ*E  1.       NAStk 


rivers,  the  view  along  the  banks  when 
hundreds  of  men  and  women  are  bath- 
tog  is  extremely  picturesque.  The 
part  of  the  town  which  stands  on  the 
rt  bank  of  the  river  is  built  npon  8 
hills,  and  is  divided  into  the  New  Town 
N.  and  the  Old  Town  S.  The  quarter 
on  the  L  bank,  where  are*  the  chief 
objects  of  interest,  is  called  Pcmchvxiti. 
'fhe  manufacture  of  brass  and  copper 
ware,  especially  of  idols,  caskets,  boxes, 
chains,  lunps,  etc.,  flourishes  here. 
Specimens  of  the  beautiful  old  work, 
though  rare,  are  still  occasionally  to  be 
found  in  the  "  old  "  copper  bazaar. 

The  temples  at  Nasik,  though  pic- 
turesque, have  no  striking  architectural 
features. 

i  m.  to  the  "W.,  on  the  Panchwati 
side  of  the  river,  is  a  solidly-built  house 
belonging  to  the  Rastia  family.  Here 
alight  and  walk  a  few  hundred  yards 
up  a  lane  to  five  very  old  and  large 
trees  of  the  Ficus  indica  species.  Under 
the  shade  of  the  largest  is  a  small  build- 
ing. None  but  Hindus  may  pass  the 
vestibule.  It  consists  of  a  low  room, 
at  the  S.  end  of  which  is  an  arch  8  ft. 
high,  and  beyond  steps  descend  to 
2  apartments  5  ft.  sq.  and  4  ft  high. 
In  the  first  room  are  images  of  Rama, 
Sita,  and  LakshmanI  In  the  second 
is  an  image  of  Mahadeo,  6  in.  high, 
which  those  three  personages  are  said 
to  have  worshipped  ;  hence  arises  the 
extreme  sanctity  of  the  place,  w^hich  is 
quite  one  of  the  holiest  in  Nasik.  This 
hole  is  Sita'B  Oupha,  or  Cave,  where 
she  found  an  asylum  until  lured  away 
by  Ravana  to  Ceylon.  Farther  down 
tne  river,  and  just  before  reaching 
the  riverside,  is  the  oldest  temple  in 
the  place,  Eapdleshwar,  ''God  of  the 
Skull,"  a  name  of  Shiva.  The  ascent 
to  it  is  by  50  stone  steps.  It  is  said 
to  be  600  years  old,  but  is  quite  plain 
and  unattractive.  Opposite  to  it  the 
river  foams  and  rushes  in  a  rocky  bed. 
Kama's  Eund  is  the  place  where  the 
pod  is  said  to  have  bathed ;  hence  it 
13  very  sacred,  and  bones  of  the  dead 
are  taken  there  to  be  washed  away. 
Opposite  to  it  and  in  the  river  itself  is 
a  stone  dharmsala,  with  several  arches, 
roofed  over,  in  which  ascetics  lodge 
when  the  water  is  low.     Down  tihe 


stream,  about  20  yds.,  are  three  temples 
erected  by  Ahalya  Bai.  The  first  is 
only  a  few  feet  high  and  long,  but  the 
next  is  a  large  square  building,  with  a 
stone  foundation  and  brick  superstruc- 
ture, dedicated  to  Rama ;  N.  of  it  is 
a  long  dharmsala,  and  a  little  down 
the  stream  is  the  third  temple,  all  of 
stone.  About  200  ft.  down  tne  stream 
is  Nam  SlumJcar's  temple,  with  an 
elaborately  carvedportico  and  a  large 
stone  enclosure.  This  ends  the  temples 
immediately  on  the  water  on  the  Panch- 
wati side.  Proceed  then  J  m.  by  a 
back  way  through  streets  of  well-built 
houses  to  the  great  temple  dedicated  to 
Kal&  Battia,  or  "  Black  Rama,'*  which 
cost  £70,000.  It  stands  in  an  oblong 
stone  enclosure,  with  96  arches.  To 
the  W.  is  a  hill  called  Sunar  'All, 
and  there  is  another  hill  close  by, 
called  Jonagadb,  or  Old  Fort,  on 
which  is  a  square  building,  in  which 
Aurangzib's  chief  officials  used  to 
reside.  They  command  fine  views  over 
the  city.  The  Hingue  Wada,  an  old 
palace  of  the  Peshwa  (chief  of  the 
Mahrattas),  at  present  used  as  a  school, 
is  worth  a  visit  for  its  beautiful  carved 
wood-work. 

The  traveller  should  not  leave  Nasik 
without  visiting  Sharanpore,  seat  of 
the  mission  founded  by  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  in  1835,  in  the 
Junawadi  part  of  Nasik,  and  moved  to 
Sharanpore  by  Mr.  W.  S.  Price  in  1855. 
Since  the  establishment  of  the  Govern- 
ment High  School  at  Nasik  in  1872 
the  missionary  school  has  fallen  off. 
There  was  connected  with  this  mission 
an  AMcan  Asylum  for  youths  rescued 
from  slavery,  and  it  was  from  here  that 
Livingstone's  Nasik  hoys  were  drawn. 
It  closed  in  1875,  and  Mr.  Price  took 
the  boys  to  the  E.  coast  of  Africa,  where 
a  colony  is  established  for  redeemed 
slaves.  There  is  a  well-built  but  archi- 
tecturally disappointing  church. 

In  a  hill  4|  m.  S.  of  Nasik  are  the 
Lena  CaTea.  A  narrow  path  ascends 
to  the  height  of  about  450  ft.  to  a 
broad  black  line  in  the  N.  face  of  the 
hill,  which  extends  about  J  m.  in  length, 
and  marks  the  excavations.  In  the 
centre,  just  opposite  the  spot  where 
the  path  ends,  is  a  Cave  37  ft  x  29  ft. 


ftOtJTB   1.      BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


and  10  ft.  high,  with  a  perfecUy  flat 
roof,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock.  Kound 
the  central  chamber  are  16  cells,  each 
6  ft  sq.  with  a  recess,  hewn  so  as  to 
make  a  couch  for  the  inmate.  In  the 
centre  is  a  modem  figure  of  Bhairay 
(see  below)  with  a  mace,  on  which  he 
leans  with  his  left  hand.  On  either 
side  of  him  is  an  earl^  female  figure. 
That  on  the  right  is  fairly  well  carred. 
On  the  inside  tace  of  the  corridor,  and 
on  one  side,  is  a  long  inscription  in  old 
Pali  characters.  To  the  W .  is  a  small 
cave  with  two  pillars  with  elephants  on 
their  capitals ;  then  a  ruined  cell  with 
a  broken  inscribed  tablet.  Next  is  a 
fine  cave  (No.  3)  with  six  pillars,  of 
which  two  are  broken,  and  the  heads 
and  busts  of  six  giants  supporting  the 
basement  of  the  corridor.  Inside  the 
verandah,  on  the  left  of  the  entrance, 
are  two  long  inscriptions.  The  door 
has  a  fi^e  about  4  ft.  high  on  either 
side,  which  is  probably  a  Yaksha,  and 
all  round  the  door  are  small  figures 
much  defaced.  Then  there  is  a  large 
chamber,  nearly  the  same  size  as  that 
in  the  first  cave,  with  18  cells  surround- 
ing it.  At  the  end  is  a  da^ba  with 
figures  on  the  sides,  a  carved  belt  half 
way  up,  and  a  double  ornament  at  top. 
To  the  W.  is  a  low  cave  with  12  figures. 
On  the  left  is  Buddha,  seated,  with 
attendant  figures  on  either  side,  and 
opposite  are  other  two  figures.  To  the 
W.  in  a  line  with  them  is  a  figure  3  ft. 
6  in.  high,  called  by  the  guides  Gautama. 
Then  tnere  is  a  large  excavation,  about 
20  ft.  long,  called  Sita's  tank  which 
is  carried  under  the  rock.  There  are 
four  piUars  in  front,  two  of  them  broken. 
Above  is  a  frieze  6  in.  broad,  with  figures 
of  horses,  bulls,  deer,  and  elephants. 
Beyond  is  a  tank.  To  the  E.  is  a 
Chaitya  cave  (No.  13)  with  seven  pillars 
and  a  dagoba,  which  the  guides  say  is 
Bhim's  mace.  Beside  it  is  a  vihara 
(No.  12)  approached  by  steps.  It  has 
seven  cells  round  it,  and  at  the  N.  end 
a  defaced  figure  of  a  goddess. 

Farther  E.  is  the  large  Vihara  Cave 
(No.  15).  It  is  46  ft.  deep,  and  87  ft, 
broad.  There  are  22  cells  round  it.  On 
the  right  and  left  of  the  spectator  as  he 
enters  the  ante-chamber  to  the  shrine 
are  two  dw&rapals,  probably  Manjushri 


and  Avalokita.  In  the  recess  ia  a 
seated  figure  of  Buddha,  as  he  sits 
with  attendant  disciples  or  Boohisatvato. 
There  is  a  wall  3  ft.  high  in  front  of 
the  recess,  which  is  so  dark  that 
nothing  can  be  seen  without  a  torch. 
There  are  several  other  smaller  oeUs 
of  less  importance.^ 

About  2  m.  E.  of  the  town,  in  the 
hill  of  Ra.mshej,  is  another  group  of 
excavations,  but  they  are  of  little  im- 
portance. 

19  m.  by  road  is  Trimliak. 

There  are  several  stone-faced  wells 
on  this  route,  and  at  Nirwadi,  on  the 
right  of  the  road,  is  a  beautiftil  tank 
lined  with  stone,  and  with  stone  st^s 
and  2  small  pagodas  built  by  Ahalya 
Bai.  Near  Wadi  2  conical  hills,  about 
900  ft.  high,  face  each  other  on  either 
side  of  the  road.  From  these  the  hais 
run  in  fantastic  shapes  to  Trimbak, 
where  they  form  a  gigantic  crescent 
from  1210  to  1500  ft.  high.  Below 
this  mountain  wall,  which  has  near 
the  top  a  scarp  of  about  100  ft.,  is  the 
small  town  of  about  3000  inhab.  It 
derives  its  name  from  TVi,  "three" 
&nd.  ArnbaJCf  "eye";  three-eyed  being 
a  name  of  Shiva.  The  Fort  stands  on 
an  impregnable  height,  1800  ft.  above 
the  town.  The  Temple  of  Trimbakesb- 
war,  which  is  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
town,  not  far  from  where  the  Nasik 
road  enters,  was  built  by  the  great  Baji 
Rao  Peshwa,  who  died  in  1740.  It 
cost  £90,000.  It  stands  in  a  stone  en- 
closure, which  has  no  corridor,  but  a 
portico,  which  is  the  music  gallery, 
and  is  40  ft.  high.  The  ascent  is  oy 
steps  outside,  and  strangers  are  per- 
mitted to  mount  in  order  to  look  into 
the  interior  of  the  temple,  which  none 
but  Hindus  may  enter.  A  flight  of 
690  stops  up  a  hm  at  the  back  of  Trim- 
bak leads  to  the  sacred  source  of  the 
river  Godavari,  where  "the  water 
trickles  drop  by  drop  from  the  lips  of 
a  carven  image  shrouded  by  a  canopy 
of  stone"  into  a  tank  below.    For  ^ 

1  See  Fergtisson  and  Burgess,  Cave  Templesi 
pp.  263-270,  and  plates  xix.  -xxvi ;  and  Buigesa, 
dcm  Tmn^,  pp.  87ff. 


ttOtTTB  1.      BXJ»BDlTION  TO  AJAN*A 


31 


m.  the  banks  of  the  stream,  15  ft.  broad, 
are  faced  with  stone.  The  water  is 
dirty.  On  its  course  is  a  fine  stone 
tank,  surronnded  on  three  sides  by  a 
porticus  25  ft.  high,  with  a  pa^da  at 
each  comer.  This  is  the  sacred  bath- 
ing-place of  pilgrims,  and  is  called  the 
Eushawat.  In  front  of  it  are  two  stone 
enclosures  full  of  filthy  water,  into 
which  the  leaves  offered  to  the  deities 
are  thrown  and  there  decompose.  At 
the  Si  end  is  a  temple  to  Shiva. 

147  m.  Lasalgaok  sta.  From  this 
place  Chandor,  an  interesting  town, 
overhung  by  a  fine  hill -fort,  is  14  m. 
N.  by  a  good  road.  The  Maharajah 
Holkar  is  hereditary  Patel  of  Chandor. 
The  fort  was -taken  by  the  British  in 
1804,  and  again  in  1818. 

162  m.  Uiinmar  junct.  sta.,  D.B.  (R. , 
This  is  the  junction  of  the  Dhona 
and  Munmar  State  Railway,  which 
forms  a  cord  line  between  the  N.E. 
and  S.E.  branches  of  the  G.I.P.R. 
About  4  m.  S.  of  the  station  is  the 
Ankai  Tanki  Fort,  now  in  ruins,  and 
7  Buddhist  caves  of  some  interest. 
Between  the  caves  and  the  station 
rises  a  curious  hill  called  Ram  Gulni, 
surmounted  by  a  natural  obelisk  of 
trap  rock  80  or  90  feet  high. 

178  m.  Nandgaon  sta.,  D.B.  (R.) 
From  here  a  road  runs  S.E.  to  Auran- 
gabad,  56  m.,  the  fort  of  Daulatabad, 
and  the  Caves  of  EUora  (see  Rte.  2). 

232  m.  Pachora  sta.,  D.B.  From 
here  the  Caves  of  Ajanta,  distant  34  m., 
are  reached  by  a  rough  road. 

[Bxpeditlon  to  AJaata. 

The  D.B.^  nearest  to  ^e  caves  is  at 
Fardapur,  80  m.  from  Pachora.  The 
best  way  is  to  write  at  least  one  clear 
day  before  to  the  Mamlatdar  (native 
magistrate)  at  Pachora  asking  him 
to  arrange  for  conveyances.  A  traveller 
who  does  not  know  the  language  well 
must  be  accompanied  by  a  servant  or 
interpreter,  and  each  person  must  have 
liedding  and  provisions.    The  journey 

1  It  fg  said  that  tbe  best  road  to  Aja^ta  is 
BOW  ftx>in  Jalgaon  sta.  (distance  about  80  m.) 
farther  E.  along  the  line.  Special  arrange- 
ments for  carriages  are  necessary,  and  permis* 
aion  to  occupy,  if  required,  one  of  the  two 
Bak  Bungalows  on  the  road.  The  traveller 
shoold  write  one  clear  day  or  two  days  before- 
hand to  the  Oollector  of  Khandesh  at  Chulia. 
mentioning  the  number  of  persons  iu  the 
P*rty. 


will  take  from  9  to  12  hours,  and  cost 
from  12  to  15  rs.  for  each  cart.  Not 
more  than  80  pounds  of  luggage  should 
be  taken  in  the  cart.  The  less  the 
better  for  speed  and  comfort.  There 
are  fairly  good  guides  on  the  spot. 

The  caves  are  a  good  hour's  walk,  4  m. 
by  a  bridle-path  from  the  D.B.  at 
Fardapur.  The  bed  of  the  Wagora 
river  iJs  crossed  and  recrossed  several 
times.  The  ravine  is  wooded.  The 
caves  extend  about  one-third  of  a  mile 
from  £.  to  W.,  and  are  excavated  in 
the  concave  scarp  of  the  trap  rock,  at  an 
elevation  of  from  85  to  110  ft.  above  the 
bed  of  the  stream.  The  most  ancient 
caves  are  near  the  E.  end. 

Following  Fergusson's  arrangement, 
they  are  numbered  from  E.  to  W.  The 
cave- temples  and  monasteries  6f  Ajanta 
furnish  a  history  of  Buddhist  art»  and 
illustrate  the  legends  of  the  religion  and 
the  domestic  life  of  the  people  from 
shortly  after  the  reign  of  Asoka  to 
shortly  before  the  expmsion  of  the  faith 
from  India.  The  oldest  caves  are 
believed  to  date  from  about  200  B.c.^ 

The  narrow  path  by  which  access  is 
gained  to  the  caves  reaches  them  at  the 
seventh  cave  from  the  E.  Thence  the 
path  goes  on  ascending  to  E.  and  W. 
along  a  narrow  ledge,  in  some  places 
little  more  than  2  ft.  broad,  and  reaches 
cave  Number  1,  the  farthest  point  on 
the  E.  This  is  a  Yihara.  Dr.  Burgess 
assigns  this  cave  to  the  7th  century. 
The  fa9ade  is  richly  decorated  wiui 
sculptured  processions  of  elephants, 
horses,  and  people.  On  the  S.  frieze  of 
the  portico  is  a  very  spirited  repre- 
sentation of  a  wild  buffalo  hunt.  The 
hunters  are  mounted  and  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows.  The  door  jambs  are 
embellished  with  male  ana  female 
figures  in  amatory  attitudes.  The  great 
hall  or  central  chamber  is  64  ft.  sq., 
and  has  20  pillars.  The  capital  of 
one  on  the  S.  side  is  remarkable  for 
four  bodies  of  deer  with  only  one  head, 
which  suits  each  body  according  to  the 
position  from  which  you  look  at  it. 
There  are  remains  of  highly  interesting 

1  The  Indian  Gk)yemment  caused  copies  of 
these  ancient  mural  paintings  to  be  made, 
and  ninety  of  them  may  be  seen  at  tiie  South 
Kensington  Museum.  Several  were  destroyed 
by  a  fire  soon  after  arrival. 


ttOUTB  1.       BOU&AY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


paintiDgs  in  oil  on  the  wall»of  this  cave. 
Remark  on  the  rieht-hand  side  of  the 
back  wall  a  very  Chinese-looking  fi^re 
of  a  youth  with  a  perfectly  white  skin. 
Remark  also  four  pictures  of  a  group 
of  four  figures,  which  Mr.  Fergusson 
has  pronounced  to  be  very  probably 
Khusru  and  Shirin  and  two  attendants. 
Khusra  II.,  or  Khusru  Par  viz,  whose 
loves'  with  Shirin  are  the  subject  of 
some  of  the  most  famous  Persian  poetry, 
reigiied  from  691  to  628  a.d.  This  king 
of  Persia  received  an  embassy  from  a 
king  of  the  Deccan,  in  whose  territory 
were  the  Caves  of  Ajanta,  and  it  is 
thought  by  some  that  when  the  embassy 
returned  the  king  sent  with  it  Persian 
painters  who  executed  these  designs. 
The  kin§j,  a  large  fair  man  with  all  the 
look  of  a  voluptuary,  and  dressed  in 
Eastern  robes  with  a  strange  high 
loose  cap  something  like  the  red  night- 
cap which  used  to  he  worn  in  England, 
holds  a  broad  shallow  cup,  into  which 
a  beautiful  girl,  supposed  to  be  Shirin, 
is  pouring  wine  from  a  vase  of  classic 
character.  In  another  tableau  the 
king  in  royal  state  is  receiving  and 
apparently  sending  back  the  embassy 
from  the  Indian  prince.  There  is  a 
sort  of  fillet  worn  by  Khusru,  which 
resembles  that  exhibited  on  a  patera 
in  Paris,  and  displays  an  undoubted 
representation  of  Khusru.  In  the 
shrine  of  this  cave  Buddha  is  seated  in 
the  teaching  attitude.  There  are  four 
cells  in  the  back  wall  besides  the  shrine, 
and  five  in  each  side  wall.  The  paint- 
ings in  this  cave,  as  in  Numbers  2  and 
16,  are,  in  Dr.  Burgess's  opinion,  auite 
equal  in  colour  and  grouping  to  tnose 
at  Pompeii. 

Numher  2,  a  vihara  cave.  There  are 
two  chapels  to  the  verandah.  Observe 
in  ceiling  near  the  S.  chapel  two  figures 
of  men  with  striped  socks.  One  holds 
a  beautifully-shaped  amphora  and  a 
flattish  cup  in  his  hand.  The  flowers 
on  the  ceiling  are  particularly  beautiful. 
Inside  the  side  chapels  in  the  back 
wall  are  very  remarkable  Italian-look- 
ing female  figures.  The  middle  one 
of  one  of  the  4  groups  has  quite  the 
look  of  a  Madonna,  and  all  resemble 
the  Italian  paintings  of  the  early  part 
of  the  14th  century.     Buddha  holds 


the  little  finger  of  his  left  hand  with  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  right    The 
Mohammedans  seem  not  to  have  genef ' 
ally  destroyed  the  noses  here  as  they 
have    at    Ellora.      In   the   centre  of 
Buddha's  throne  isthe  Wheel  of  the  Law 
between  two  deer.     The  chapel  in  the 
back  wall,  on  the  right  of  the  shrine,  has 
two  figures,  which  are  either  the  patron 
and  patroness  or  Indra  and  Indrani. 
In  the  left-hand  top  comer  is  a  very 
remarkable  group,  to  all  appearaiice  a 
woman  teaching  ner  child  to  prajr,  and 
resembling  a  famous  European  picture. 
On  the  frieze  below  is  a  ram-fight,  and 
figures    boxing    and    wrestling,    with 
musicians  and  a  president    The  Italian- 
looking  figures  of  fair  women  are  many 
of  them  nude  to  the  waist.    The  chapel 
on  the  left  has  two  male  figures  with  head- 
dresses like  wings  of  an  enormous  size, 
and  all  hanging  on  the  left  shoulder. 

Nvmber  3,  a  small  vihara,  quite  un- 
finished. 

Number  4,  a  large  vihara.  There  is 
a  very  remarkable  representation  of  the 
Litany,  as  it  is  called  by  Dr.  Burgess, 
on  the  right  of  the  door,  consisting  of 
two  sets  of  four  groups  each.  The  1st 
group  on  the  left  consists  of  two  figures 
flying  from  an  infuriated  elephant ; 
the  2d  group  is  of  two  figures  flying 
from  a  lion ;  the  3d  exhibits  two 
figures  flying  from  a  man  with  a 
sword,  who  is  stabbing  one  in  the 
stomach ;  the  4th  group  is  intended 
to  represent  the  perils  of  the  sea,  but  is 
so  much  obliterated  that  one  can  make 
out  nothing  but  some  fi^ires  in  a  vessel. 
The  1st  group  on  the  right  hand  repre- 
sents the  perils  of  fire  ;  the  2d  group 
is  a  pair  of  figures  threatened  by  a 
cobra  ;  the  3d  group  is  of  two  figures, 
one  of  which  holds  the  other  by  a  rope, 
which  passes  over  his  shoulder  and  is 
fastened  round  his  wrist, — this  repre- 
sents Captivity ;  the  4th  group  repre- 
sents Kali  the  Hindu  goddess  of  destruc- 
tion, uplifting  her  skeleton  arms  to  seize 
a  victim, — this  represents  Famine. 

NumMr  5,  a  vihara,  commenced  only. 

Number  6,  a  vihara,  remarkable  for 
having  two  stories,  of  which  there  is 
here  only  one  other  example,  viz.  cave 
Number  25.  The  staircase  to  the 
upper   story  is  broken  away  to    the 


ROUTE  1.      EXPEDITION  TO  AJANTA 


height  of  13  ft.,  so  that  that  story  is 
almost  inaccessible.  The  Bhil  free- 
booters for  a  long  time  inhabited  this 
caye,  and  damaged  it  excessively. 

Nvmber  7,  a  vihara.  It  has  a  larp 
verandah  with  cells  at  the  back  like  the 
Cuttack  Caves.  Two  porches  of  two 
pillars  each  project  from  the  front  line 
of  the  verandah,  resembling  those  at 
Elephanta  and  the  Duma  Lena,  and  are 
probably  of  the  same  date.  There  is  also 
a  chapel  with  two  pillars  at  either  end. 
In  the  vestibule  are  4  rows  of  5  cross- 
legged  figures  seated  on  the  lotus,  with 
a  lotas  Mtween  each  pair,  and  one  row 
of  studying  Buddhas.  On  the  right 
are  two  similar  sculptures  of  repeated 
figures  of  Buddha  seated  and  standing. 
Within  the  sanctuary  on  either  side  are 
two  large  figures  and  one  small,  and 
two  fan-bearers.  On  the  step  are  16 
cross-legged  figures,  8  on  either  side. 

Nwn3xT  8,  a  vihara  of  no  interest. 

ISutriheT  9  is  a  dagoba.  There  are  3  in- 
scriptions, probably  of  the  2d  cent.  A.D. 

itumber  10,  a  aagoba.  The  statue 
of  Buddha  is  quite  separated  from  the 
wall.  The  roof  is  ribbed.  The  ribbing 
in  the  aisles  beinff  of  stone,  and  in  the 
Mve  of  wood,  though  now  only  the 
fastening  pins,  and  the  footings  for  one 
or  two  of  the  ribs  are  left.  The  da- 
goba is  plain  and  solid,  with  only  the 
square  capital  or  Tee  on  the  top.  The 
whole  of  this  cave  has  been  painted, 
though  now  only  some  figures  of  Buddha 
and  his  discibles  are  .left.  On  the  in- 
terior face  of  the  cave,  and  very  high 
m  is  an  inscription  in  the  pure  Ldt  (see 
Gloasary)  character,  which  would  give 
ao  antiquity  of  from  200  to  100  b.o. 

Number  11  resembles  cave  Num- 
ber 12,  but  has  four  pillars  in  the 
centre  supporting  the  roof,  being  prob- 
ably one  of  the  earliest  instances  of 
the  introduction  of  pillars  for  such  a 
purpose.  On  the  walls  are  antelopes, 
lions,  and  a  boy  praying,  sculptured  in 
the  very  best  style  of  art,  and  evidently 
coeval  with  the  Ganesh  Gupha  at 
Cuttack.  The  walls  have  been  stuccoed 
and  painted. 

NuTnher  12  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 

and  plainest  of  the  series,  having  no 

pillars,  sanctuary,  or  visible  object  of 

worship.    The  only  ornament  consists 

[Jfu2ta] 


of  seven  horse-shoe  canopies  on  each 
side,  four  over  the  doors  of  the  cells, 
the  other  three  merely  ornamental. 
These  canopies  are  very  similar  to 
those  at  Cuttack.  There  is  an  inscrip- 
tion on  the  inner  wall  in  a  character 
slightly  modified  from  that  on  the 
iMs,  and  written  probably  early  in  the 
Christian  era,  if  not  before  it. 

NuTriber  13,  a  small  cave  with  2  cells. 

Nurriber  14,  a  large  unfinished  vihara. 

Number  15,  a  plain  square  cave. 

Nuwher  16  and  Number  17  are  the 
two  finest  viharas  of  the  series.  On  the 
external  faces  are  two  long  inscriptions. 
These  caves  date  probably  about  the 
4th  century  A.  D.  The  paintings  in  the 
great  hall  are  very  interesting,  repre- 
senting battles.  The  soldiers  hold 
short  swords  like  the  Nipalese  knife, 
and  oblong  shields,  like  the  shield  of 
Achilles.  The  architectural  details 
are  more  ele^oit  than  in  any  cave  in 
the  series.  Number  17  is  called  the 
Zodiac  Cave,  and  resembles  16,  except 
that  it  is  not  so  lofty,  and  the  detaug 
are  not  so  elegant.  The  paintings,  how- 
ever, are  more  perfect.  On  the  right- 
hand  wall,  as  you  enter,  a  procession  is 
painted.  Three  elephants  are  issuing 
from  a  gateway,  one  black,  one  white, 
and  one  red.  Flags  and  umbrellas  are 
borne  before  them,  and  men  with  spears 
and  swords  make  up  the  train.  On  the 
back  wall  is  a  hunting  scene,  in  which 
a  maned  lion,  now  not  found  in  India, 
is  a  prominent  figure.  In  the  verandah 
are  some  curious  paintings,  especially  a 
circular  one,  with  eight  compartments. 
Over  the  door  are  eight  sitting  figures, 
of  which  four  are  black,  and  the  rest 
each  a  degree  fairer,  the  eighth  being 
quite  white  and  wearing  a  crown.  Mr. 
Fergusson  pronounces  these  paintings 
to  be  decidedly  superior  to  the  style 
of  Europe  during  the  age  in  which 
they  were  executed. 

Number  18  is  merely  a  porch  with 
two  pillars. 

Number  19  is  a  chaitya  (see  Glossary) 
cave,  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its 
details.  The  roof  is  ribbed  in  stone. 
The  dagoba  has  three  stone  umbrellas, 
rising  till  they  touch  the  roof ;  in  front 
is  a  standing  figure  of  Buddha. 

Number  20  is  a  vihara. 


84 


BOUTB  1.      BOUBAT  TO  CALOUTIA 


India 


Number  21.  The  puntmn  are 
almost  obliterated,  except  on  xke  left 
hand  as  you  enter,  where  there  is  a 
large  black  Buddha  with  red  hair, 
attended  by  black  slayes,  also  a  number 
of  females,  £ur  as  Europeans. 

Numbers  22  and  23  are  unimportant. 

Number  24  is  unfinished ;  but  the 
details,  where  completed,  are  so  rich  as 
to  leare  no  doubt  that  this  would  haye 
been  one  of  the  finest  cayes  had  the 
design  been  folly  carried  out  Only  one 
pilLur  has  been  completely  sculptured. 

Number  25  is  a  small  rude  ymara. 

Number  26  is  a  yaulted  ohaitya  cave, 
and  perhaps  the  most  modem  of  the 
series.  It  resembles  Number  19,  but- 
is  much  larger.  Its  sculptures  are 
more  numerous  and  minute  than  any 
other.  The  Buddha  in  front  of  the 
dagoba  is  seated,  with  his  feet  down. 
The  walls  are  covered  with  sculptures 
of  Buddha  and  disciples.  In  the  S. 
aisle  is  a  figure  23  ft  3  in.  long,  reclin- 
ing all  its  length,  in  which  attitude 
Buddhists  prepare  to  receive  nirvdriah, 
*' beatitude."  Above  are  many  angels, 
one  of  them  sounding  vigorously  a  big 
drum.  The  fat  figures  which  serve  as 
brackets  have  four  arms.  There  are 
two  inscriptions  on  the  outside,  one 
under  a  figure  of  Buddha  on  the  left  of 
the  entrance  ;  the  other  much  broken, 
but  more  distinct,  on  the  right,  in  the 
character  of  the  6th  century  A.D. 

Number  27  is  small  and  unfinished.] 

276  m.  Bhusawal  June.  sta.  (R.)  A 
place  called  into  existence  by  the 
G.I.P.R.  works.  Junction  of  the 
Bengal  •  Nagpur  Railway.  (See  p. 
78.) 


278i  m.  The  Tapti  Bridge,  one  of 
the  most  important  works  on  the  line. 
The  first  bndge  built  was  abandoned 
in  consequence  of  the  inferior  nature 
of  the  stone  of  which  it  was  con- 
structed. 


310  m.  Burhanpur  sta.  D.B.  The  city 
is  about  8  m.  distant.  Fop.  84,000. 
It  has  been  a  place  of  muck  import- 


ance, and  is  completely  walled  in.    The 
neighbourhood  contams  some  interest- 
ing Mohammedan  ruins,  and  a  curious 
aqueduct  still  in  use.     In  the  town  are 
two  handsome  mosques.    The  Sadshai 
JTiZZa— the  ruins  of  a  citadel  and  pedace 
— ^is  beautifully  situated  on  a  ne^t 
overlooking    the    Tapti    river.     Tbe 
place  was  founded  in  1400  A.D.  by 
Naser  Khan  of  the  Famki  dynasty  of 
Ehandesh,  and  was  annexed  to  the 
Mogul  Empire  by  Akbar  in  1600  A.D. 
It  was  the  capital  of  the  Deccan  Pro- 
vince of  the  empire  when  in  1614  A.D. 
Sir   Thomas   Roe,    ambassador    from 
James  I.  to  the  creat  Moguls  passed 
through,  and  paid  his  respects  to  the 
Viceroy  Prince  Parvis,  son  of  Jehangir. 
Sir  Thomas  complains  that  the  Prince 
"  made  himself  drunk  out  of  a  case  of 
bottles  I  gave  him,  and  so  the  visit 
ended."      The    place  was   taken   by 
General  Wellesley  in  1803,  and  given 
back  to  Slndia  the  next  year.     It  is 
now  British  territory. 

322  m.  Chandni  sta.  About  6  m.  by 
a  fair  road  is  Asirg^h,  an  interest- 
ing and  picturesque  hiU-fort,  a  detached 
rock  standing  up  850  ft  from  the  sur- 
rounding plam.  It  was  taken  by  storm 
by  General  Wellesley 's  army  in  1808, 
restored  to  Sindia,  and  a^in  taken  in 
1819,  since  when  it  has  belonged  to  the 
British.  The  country  around  is  wild 
and  abounds  in  large  game. 

868  m.  Ehandwa  junc.  sta.,  D.B. 
(R.)  A  civil  station,  the  chief  place  oC 
the  district  of  Nimar  in  the  Central 
Provinces.  From  here  the  metre-gauge 
system  of  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and 
Central  Indian  Railway  runs  K.  to 
Mhow,  Indore,  and  through  Western 
Malwa  to  Ajmere,  Agra,  and  Delhi  (sea 
Rte.  4) ;  also  to  Ferozpore,  Punjab. 

417  m.  Harda  sta.,  D.B.  close  to 
station,  good  (pop.  about*14,000).  An 
important  mart  for  the  export  ol 
grain  and  seeds.  Here  the  railway 
enters  the  great  wheat -field  of  tike 
Nerbudda  Valley,  which  extends  tc 
Jubbulpore.  Haraa  has  a  good  D.H. 
3  m.  walk  from  the  sta.  uiBlll  Broa, 
have  an  agency  at  Harda. 

464  m.  Itarsi  junc  sta.,  D.B.  (JL,] 


B0X7TB  I.      JEZFBDinON  TO  THB  MA.BBLB  BOOKS 


36 


from  this  the  system  of  the  Indian 
Midland  Railway  nins  N.  to  Hoshan- 
gabad,  Bhopal,  Jhansi,  Gwalior,  Agra, 
and  Gskwnpore  (see  Rte.  5). 

505  m.  Pipaxia  sta.3^  There  is  a 
comfortable  D.B.  close  to  the  station. 
[A  fair  road  leads  in  32  m.  S.  to 
F&ehmari,3^  the  hill-station  of  the 
Central  Provinces.  There  are  many 
bangalows  at  Pachmari  and  barracks, 
which  are  occupied  by  European  troops 
in  the  hot  season.  The  station  is  nearly 
4000  feet  aboye  sea -level.  There  is 
a  D.  B.  on  the  way  ;  the  ascent,  which 
is  12  m.  long,  is  very  pleasing.  Good 
large -game  diooting  .  in  the  forests 
below  the  station.] 

536  m.  Gadarwara  junc.  sta.  A 
railway  12  m.  long  leads  S.  to  the  Moh- 
paai  coal-mines,  worked  by  the  Ner- 
badda  Coal  Co. 

616  m.  JABALPUB  sta.  3^  (792 
m.  from  Calcutta  by  the  Allahabad 
route).  (R.),  an  important  civil 
and  military  station,  the  meeting- 
place  of  the  G.I.  P.  and  East  Indian 
Rlys. 

The  town  (pop.  84,570)  and  station 
are  well  laid  out  and  well  cared  for, 
but  contain  little  of  interest  in  them- 
selves. Travellers  stop  here  in  order  to 
visit  the  Marble  Bocks  (see  below.)  In 
the  modern  settlement  of  India  few  sub- 
jects have  created  more  interest  than 
the  suppression  of  the  Thags  {Thugs), 
a  fraternity  devoted  to  the  murder  of 
human  beings  by  strangulation.  The 
occupation  was  hereditary.  They  made 
it  at  once  a  religion  and  a  means  of 
livelihood.  The  principal  agent  in 
hunting  down  these  criminals  was 
Colonel  Sleeman,  and  it  was  at  Jabal- 
par — -a  great  centre  of  their  operations 
—that  the  informers  and  the  families  of 
the  captured  Thags  were  confined.  They 
were  Kept  in  an  enclosed  village,  and 
to  provide  them  with  occupation  the 
once  famous  '*  School  of  Industry  "  was 
established  in  1835.  Originally  there 
were  2500  of  these  people,  now  very  few 
remain.  A  pass  is  required  to  see  the 
lliag  village,  and  the  interesting  and 
well  organised  Jail. 


[Expedition  to  the  Kaxble  Books.^ 

The  Marble  Rocks,  which  are  11  m. 
from  Jabalpur,  are  worth  a  visit. 
Tongas  can  be  hired  for  the  trip.  The 
road  is  heavy  and  dusty  in  places,  but 

rnerall^  good.  About  half-way,  and 
m.  oft  the  main  road  is  a  remarkable 
ancient  fortress  of  the  Grond  Kings, 
perched  on  the  summit  of  an  enormous 
granite  boulder.  At  9^  m.  turn  1.  to 
the  rocks  by  a  branch  road,  which  for 
the  last  i  m.  is  impracticable  in  the 
rains.  There  is  a  comfortable  D.B. 
Descend  70  ft  to  the  river-side,  and 
there  embark.  Four  men  to  row  and 
one  to  steer  are  quite  enough.  The 
river  in  the  dry  season  is  a  series  of 
deep  pools  without  current,  and  of  a 
dark  green,  and  full  of  fish  and  alli- 
gators. The  latter  do  not  come  out  on 
the  rocks  till  the  sun  is  high,  when 
they  bask,  and  might  be  shot  at,  were 
it  not  for  the  bees.  There  are  pigeons, 
too,  and  water-fowl,  but  shooting  has 
its  perils,  for  there  are  both  hornets' 
and  bees'  nests.  These  quickly  attack 
persons  who  fire  guns  or  make  a  noise. 
J  ust  at  the  end  of  the  pools,  at  a  place 
called  the  Monke/s  leap,  two  young 
railway  engineers  were  attacked  by  bees 
as  they  were  shooting.  One  got  ashore 
and  ran  off  with  the  natives  into  the 
jungle,  and  though  much  stuns,  escaped 
death.  The  other  jumped  mto  the 
water  and  dived,  and  though  a  good 
swimmer,  was  drowned,  for  when  he 
came  up  the  bees  attacked  him  again, 
and  would  not  leave  him  till  he  sank. 
The  nests  are  quite  black,  and  more 
than  a  yard  long.  The  cliffs  are  of 
white  marble,  which,  when  broken,  is 
bright  and  sparkling,  but  the  surface 
is  somewhat  discoloured  by  the  weather 
Near  the  new  bungalow,  -where  are 
several  white  temples,  the  cliffs  are 
80  ft.  high.  The  water  is  said  by  the 
people  of  the  place  to  be  here  150  ft. 
deep.  1  m.  farther  the  barrier  rocks 
intercept  the  stream,  and  no  boat  can 
pass  in  the  dry  season.     In  the  rains 

1  Fasseogera  who  are  pressed  for  time,  by 
' phing  beforehand  to  the  hotel  i 


at  Jabalpiir  to  have  a  carriage  ready  for 
them  at  the  rly.  sta.,  may  visit  the  rocka, 
and  proceed  on  their  journey  by  the  following 
train. 


36 


BOUTB  1.      BOMBAY  TO  OALOUTTA 


India 


the  river  rises  80  ft,  and  is  then  a 
mighty  torrent,  and  veiy  dangerous 
Aboat  i  m.  upon  the  1.  is  an  in- 
wription  in  the  Nagri  character,  made 
by  Madhu  Rao  Peshwa.  }  m.  1.  are 
curious  rocks  called  Hathi  ka  Panw, 
"  elephant's  leKS,"  from  a  fancied  resem- 
blance. The  height  of  the  rocks  no- 
where exceeds  90  ft,  and  though  the 
scenery  is  picturesque,  it  is  not  grand. 
There  is  a  cascade  f  m.  beyond  the 
barrier  rocks  called  the  Dhuandhar 
or  "  Smoke  Fall."  80  yds.  beyond  the 
bungalow  is  a  flight  of  107  stone  steps, 
some  of  them  carved,  which  lead  to 
the  Madanpur  Temple,  surrounded  by 
a  circular  stone  enclosure.  All  round 
it  are  fiffures  of  Farvati,  with  one  leg 
in  her  Up.  Though  much  mutilate^ 
they  are  quite  worth  a  visit.] 

678  m.  Xatni  junc.  sta.  Line  S.£. 
to  the  coal-fields  at  Umcuria  87  m.,  and 
thence  to  Bilaspur  on  the  Bengal-Nag- 
pur  Rly.  (p.  76;.    A  line  W.  to  Saugar. 

784  m.  Sntna  (or  Satna)  sta.,  D.B. 
(R.).  A  town  and  British  cantonment  in 
the  Rewah  state,  also  the  headquarters 
of  the  Baghelkhand  Political  Agency. 
The  Umballa  road  branches  from  this 
point  eastward  meeting  the  Great  Dewari 
Road  which  runs  from  Jabalpur  to  Mir- 
zapur.  Rewah  is  situated  on  this  road 
8  m.  from  the  junction.  There  is  nothing 
whatever  to  see  at  Sutna.  Near  Satna 
were  found  the  remains  of  the  Bharhut 
stupa  removed  to  Calcutta  Museum. 

783  m.  Hanikpur  junc.  sta.  From 
this  place  the  Indian  midland  line  runs 
W.  to  Jhansi,  181  m.  (Rte.  6a}. 

842  m.  Naini  sta.  (R.)  Hotel  Close 
by  is  the  Jail,  one  of  the  largest  in 
India,  and  admirably  managed.  2  m. 
farther  the  line  crosses  the  Jumna  by  a 
fine  bridge,  and  enters 

844  m.  Allahabad  sta.  «  The 
capital  of  the  North- West  Provinces, 
816  ft  above  sea-level  (pop.  162,896), 
is  a  cood  place  to  make  a  halt. 
Travellers  coming  from  Bombay  or 
Calcutta,  between  the  months  of 
November  and  March,  are  warned 
to  provide  themselves  with  warm 
'  ""s  and  blankets,  as  they  will  find 


it  cold  at  Allahabad  and  fisurther  north. 
Allahabad  is  situated  on  the  L  bank 
of  the  Jumna  river,  on  the  wedge  of 
land  formed  by  its  junction  with  the 
Ganges,  crossed  by  2  bridges  of  boats 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  town. 

The  Fort  stands  near  the  jimctlon  of 
the  Ganges  and  the  Junma.    The  Civil 
Station,  CSantonments,  and  City  stretch 
W.  from  this  point  6  m.    The  present 
Fort  and  City  were  founded  by  Akbar 
in  1676  A.D.,  but  the  Aryans  possessed 
a  very  ancient  city  here  called  Prayag. 
The  Hindus  now  call  it  Prag.    It  is  a 
very  sacred  place  with  them,  as  they 
believe  that  Brahma   performed  his 
sacrifices  of  the  horse  here,  in  memory 
of  his  recoverixig  the  four  Yedas  from 
Shankhasur.     The  town  was  visited 
by  Megasthenes  in  the  8d  cent  B.a, 
and  in  the   7th   cent  a.d.    Hiouen 
Thsang,  the  Buddhist  pilgrim,  visited 
and  described  it   It  was  first  conquered 
by  the  Moslems  in  1194  A.D.,  under 
Shahabu-din-Ghori.      At  the  end  of 
Akbar*s  reign  Prince  Salim,  afterwards 
the  Emperor  Jehangir,  governed  it  and 
lived   in   the   fort.     Jehangir's  son, 
Ehusru,  rebelled  against  him,  but  wis 
defeated  and  put  under  the  custody  of 
his  brother  Khurram,  afterwards  the 
Emperor  Shah  Jehan.     Ehusru  died 
in  1616,  and  the  Khusru  Bagh  (see 
below)  contains  his  mausoleum.     In 
1786    Allahabad  was   taken   by  the 
Marathas,  who  held  it  till  1760,  when 
it  was  sacked  by  the  Pathans  of  Farruk- 
habad.     It  changed   masters   several 
times,  and  in  November  1801  it  was 
ceded  to  the  British. 

Allahabad  was  the  seat  of  the  govern- 
ment of  the  N.W.  Provinces  from 
1884  to  1866,  when  that  was  removed  to 
Agra.  In  1868,  after  the  suppression 
of  the  Mutiny,  it  again  beceime  the 
seat  of  the  provincial  government. 

In  M^  1867  the  all -important 
station  of  Allahabad,  with  its  magni- 
ficent Arsenal  and  strong  Fort,  was,  in 
spite  of  the  warnings  of  Sir  James 
Outram,  garrisoned  by  a  single  Sepoy 
regiment,  the  6th,  to  which,  on  9th 
May  a  wing  of  the  Ferozpur  regiment 
of  Sikhs  and,  ten  days  later,  two  troops 
of  Oudh  Irregular  Horse,  were  added. 
The  officers  of  the  6th  N.I.  were  con- 


rn  2 


BOUTE  1.      ALLAHABAD 


37 


fc  in  the  loyalty  of  their  corps,  but 
nately  a  few  days  later  60  English 
^r^id  soldiers  were  brought  in  from 
i||.  lar.  The  history  of  uie  outbreak 
'£|VJIahabad  is  one  of  the  saddest 
^^^tera  in  the  long  list  of  misfortunes 
%  '.A  marked  the  commencement  of 
Si^Xpeat  Mutiny  of  1857.  Fifteen 
TjiB  were  murdered  by  the  Sepoys. 
•  was  an  awful  crisis.  Had  the 
I'.  .'$  in  the  Fort  fraternised  with  the 
8,  that  stronghold,  with  its  im- 
k  stores  of  guns  and  ammunition, 
have  gone  to  swell  the  strength 
rebels ;  but  Brasyer,  who  com- 
.  d  the  Sikhs,  drew  up  his  detach- 
Ut  the  main  gate,  and  with  him 
^j^^Wie  guns  manned  by  the  English 
Jmi  artillerymen  from  Chunar,  and 
;?(4Mknot8  of  English  volunteers, 
epoys  were  overawed,  disarmed, 
icpeUed  from  the  Fort  Meaii- 
^Bussell,  an  officer  of  the  Artillery, 
|dd  trains  to  the  magazines,  and 
spared  to  blow  them  up  in  case 
reverse.  "While  this  went  on 
Fort,  anarchy  reigned  in  the 
i-the  jail  was  broken  open,  and 
I  prisoners,  with  the  irons  still 
[  on  their  limbs,  murdered  every 
m  they  met  On  the  morning 
lie  7th  the  Treasury  was  sacked, 
(the  6th  N.I.  disbanded  itself, 
man  taking  his  plunder  to  his 
re  village.  Each  Sepoy  carried  off 
or  4000  rs.,  and  many  of  them 
murdered  by  the  villagers.  A 
nmedan  Maulvi  was  put  up  as 
lor  of  Allahabad,  and  took  up 
laarters  in  the  Ehusru  Bagh. 
lie  11th  of  June  General  Neill 
.  in  the  Fort,  and  on  the  mom- 
the  12th  opened  fire  from  the 
igons  on  the  village  of  Baraganj, 
ent  out  a  detachment  of  Fusiliers. 
,  who  burned  the  village  and 

sion  of  the  bridge  of  boats. 

ie  same  day  Major  Stephenson, 
100  men  of  the  Fusiliers,  passed 
\  the  Fort  KeiU  then  scoured  the 
libouring  villages,  and  produced 
a  terror  in  the  city  that  the  in- 
fants deserted  en  masse,  and  the 
Ivi  fled  to  Cawnpore. 

Shnsra   Bagh,   close   to    the 
and  E.  of  it,  ia  entered  by  an 


old  archway,  nearly  60  ft.  high  and  46 
ft  deep,  overgrown  with  creepers.  With- 
in thQ  well-kept  garden  are  3  square 
mausoleums.  That  to  the  E.  is  the  tomb 
of  Sultan  Khusru,  W.  of  it  is  a  ceno- 
taph of  Nur  Jehan,  who  was  buried  at 
Lahore,  and  farther  W.  that  of  Sahibah 
Begam,  wife  of  Jehangir.  They  are 
shjuied  by  some  fine  tamarind  trees. 

The  mausoleum  of  Ehusru  has  been 
yery  handsome  inside,  and  is  orna- 
mented with  many  Persian  couplets, 
and  with  paintings  of  trees  and  flowers, 
which  are  now  faded.  The  actual  grave 
is  underground,  but  above  is  a  cenotaph 
of  white  marble,  on  a  raised  platform, 
without  inscription.  To  the  rt.  and  1. 
two  of  Khusru's  sons  are  buried.  In 
the  gardens  are  the  reservoirs  for  the 
water  supply  of  the  town  ;  and  beyond 
the  gardens  is  the  native  quarter,  con- 
taining some  picturesque  comers.  It 
is  quite  distinct  from  Canxiing  Town, 
the  European  quarter,  which  since  the 
time  of  tne  Mutiny  has  been  laid  out 
amongst  a  network  of  wide  avenues. 
All  Saints'  Church,  near  the  rly.  sta., 
is  a  large  cruciform  building  in  the 
Romanesque  style.  Trinity  Church  is 
on  the  way  to  the  Fort,  and  a  little 
over  2  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  it  This 
church  contains  a  tablet  which  is  valu- 
able as  a  historical  record  of  those  who 
perished  in  the  Mutiny,  and  gives  a  list 
of  their  names.  The  Bomlta  Catholic 
Cathedral,  in  the  Italian  style,  is  W. 
of  the  Alfred  Park. 

The  Muir  College,  to  the  N.  of  the 
Alfred  Park,  is  a  fine  building  in  the 
Saracenic  style.  It  has  its  name  from 
Sir  William  Muir,  formerly  Lt-Govemor 
of  the  N.W.  Provinces,  and  author  of 
the  Jjife  of  Mahomet.  Close  by  is 
the  Mayo  Hall,  or  Memorial^  a  fine 
structure,  with  a  tower  147  ft.  high. 
The  main  hall  is  used  for  balls  and 
amateur  theatricals. 

The  Club  is  close  to  the  Mayo  Me- 
morial, and  S.  of  it,  and  is  reached  by 
the  ThomhiU  Road. 

The  Thomhill  and  Mayne  Memorial. 
— In  the  Park  is  also  the  Thornhill 
Memorial,  where  are  the  Library  and 
Museum.  In  the  Library  there  are 
between  9000  and  10,000  books  and 
pamphlets. 


38 


BOUTB  1.      BOMBAT  TO  OALOUTTA 


Indda 


The  Fort  was  built  by  Akbar  in 
1576.  It  fonns  a  striking  object  from 
the  river,  but  its  "high  towers  have 
been  cut  down,  and  the  stone  ramparts 
topped  with  turfed  parapets,  and  fronted 
with  a  sloping  glacis.  The  changes 
rendered  necessary  by  modem  military 
exigencies  have  greatly  detracted  from 
its  picturesqueness  as  a  relic  of  antiquity. 
The  principal  gateway  is  capped  with  a 
dome,  and  nas  a  wide  vault  underneath 
it.  It  is  a  noble  entrance.  The  walls 
are  from  20  to  25  ft.  high.  There  is 
a  broad  moat  which  can  be  filled  with 
water  at  any  time.  Within  the  en- 
closure lie  the  officers*  quarters,  powder 
magazine,  and  barracks,  while  the  old 
palace,  greatly  disfigured  by  the  fa9ade 
Duilt  by  the  English,  is  now  utilised 
as  an  arsenal "  (an  order  to  enter  must 
be  obtained  from  the  Ordnance  Com- 
missaiy  at  Allahabad).  The  central 
room  is  what  was  the  Audience  Hall. 
"  It  is  supported  by  8  rows  of  8  columns, 
and  surrounded  by  a  deep  verandah  of 
doul)le  columns,  with  groups  of  4  at 
the  angles,  all  surmounted  by  bracket 
capitals  of  the  richest  design." — J.  F. 

Asoka'a  Pillar. — Close  to  the  Palace 
is  the  Asoka  Pillar,  which  rises  49  ft. 
5  in.  above  ground.  It  is  of  stone, 
highly  polished,  and  is  of  much  interest 
on  account  of  its  great  antiquity.  On 
it  are  inscribed  the  famous  Edicts  of 
Asoka  {circa  240  b.c.)»  and  also  a  record 
of  Samudra  Gupta's  victories  in  the  2d 
cent.,  and  one  by  Jehangir,  to  commem- 
orate his  accession  to  the  throne.  There 
are  also  minor  inscriptions,  beginning 
almost  from  the  Christian  era.  Ac- 
cording to  James  Prinsep,  the  insertion 
of  some  of  these  inscriptions  shows 
that  it  was  overthrown,  as  it  would 
have  been  impossible  to  cut  them  while 
the  pillar  was  erect.  It  was  finally 
set  up  in  1838  by  the  British. 

The  Alcshai  Bar  or  nndecaying 
banian  tree. — Hiouen  Thsang,  the 
Chinese  Pilgrim  of  the  7th  cent,  in  de- 
scribing Frayag  gives  a  circumstantial 
description  of  the  undecaying  tree. 
In  the  midst  of  the  city,  he  says,  stood 
a  Brahmanical  temple,  to  which  the 
presentation  of  a  single  piece  of  money 
procured  as  much  merit  as  that  of  1000 
pieces  elsewhere.    Before  the  principal 


room  of  the  temple  wasa  tree  surrounded 
by  the  bones  of  pilgrims  who  had  sacri- 
ficed their  lives  there. 

There  are  a  few  steps  leading  to 
a  dark  underground  passage  which  goes 
35  ft  straight  to  the  £.,  then  S.  30  ft. 
to  the  tree.  Beyond  this  is  a  square 
aperture  which  the  Indians  say  leads 
to  Benares.  There  are  some  idols 
ranged  along  the  passage.  In  the  centre 
of  the  place  is  a  lingam  of  Shiva,  over 
which  water  is  poured  by  pilgrims. 
Cunningham  in  his  Ancient  Geography 
of  India  gives  an  interesting  sketch 
of  the  probable  changes  in  the  locality, 
and  concludes  :  ''  I  think  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  the  famous  tree  here 
described  is  the  well-known  Akshai 
Bar  or  undecaying  banian  tree,  which  is 
still  an  object  of  worship  at  Allahabad. 
Xhis  tree  is  now  situated  underground, 
at  one  side  of  a  pillared  court  (or  orypt) 
which  would  appear  to  have  been  open 
formerly,  and  which  is,  I  believe,  the 
remains  of  the  temple  described  by 
Hiouen  Thsang.  The  temple  is  situated 
inside  the  Fort  E.  of  the  Ellenboroogh 
barracks,  and  due  N.  from  the  stone 
pillars  of  Asoka  and  Samudra  Gup»ta." 

As  no  tree  could  live  in  such  a  situa- 
tion, the  stump  is  no  doubt  renewed 
from  time  to  time.  Close  by  is  a  deep 
octagonal  well  flanked  by  2  vaulted 
octagonal  chambers. 

It  is  worth  while  walking  round 
the  ramparts  for  a  view  of  the  Con- 
iiaence  of  the  Gtanges,  which  is  1^ 
m.  broad,  flowing  from  the  N.,  with* 
the  Jmnna,  i  m.  broad,  flowing 
from  the  W.  The  Ganges  is  of  a 
muddy  colour,  the  Jumna  is  bluer, 
and  they  meet  J  of  a  m.  beyond 
the  Fort  The  Mela,  a  religious 
fair  of  great  antiquity,  to  which 
Allahabad  probably  owes  its  origin, 
occurs  every  year  about  the  mont!h 
of  January,  when  it  is  said  that  the 
pilgrims  have  numbered  a  million 
persons.  They  come  to  bathe  at  the 
confluence  of  the  sacred  rivers,  and. 
encamp  on  the  sandy  tongue  of  land 
between  them. 

The  Akbar  Bund  or  embankment 
runs  from  Dara  GaDJ  N.£.  of  the  fort. 
The  Old  and  New  Kotwalis  are  i  m. 
S.  of  the  Khusru  Bagh  and  the  RaO- 


ROUTE  1.       BBNARBS 


89 


way  Station.  These  are  well  built,  and 
are  worth  looking  at. 

The  Jail  is  at  Kaini,  about  2  m.  to 
the  W.  of  the  Jnmna,  after  crossing 
over  the  bridge  (see  above). 

509  m.  Minapnr  sta.  An  important 
well-built  city.  Pop,  84, 130.  Before  the 
opening  of  the  East  India  Railway  it 
was  the  largest  mart  on  the  Ganges  for 
grain  and  cotton ;  much  of  the  trade 
is  now  diverted  elsewhere.  It  is  still 
noted  for  carpets  and  rugs,  dyed  with 
old  native  vegetable  dyes,  which  are 
very  permanent.  Two  manufacturers 
haye  the  privilege  of  displaying  their 
patterns  on  the  rulway  platform  daring 
the  stoppage  of  the  train.  There  is  a 
handsome  riyer  front  with  fine  ghats. 
The  civil  station  is  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
city. 

931  m.  Mogul  Sarai  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
Prom  this  point  the  traveller  should  visit 

[BBSAXBS{Farcma8i—Kasi),i^  The 
Cantonment  sta.  is  10  m.  distant  from 
Mogal  Sarai  on  the  Oudh  and  Robil- 
cund  ByL  :  at  7  m.  the  Ganges  is  crossed 
by  a  steel  bridge  nearly  f  m.  in  length. 
There  is  a  station  called  the  Benares 
river-station  on  its  banks. 

Benares  (pop.  232,400),  commonly 
called  Kasivy  the  Hindus,  has  been 
the  religious  capital  of  India  from  be- 
yond historical  tunes.  The  most  gener- 
ally accepted  derivation  of  the  name, 
Faranasi  is  from  the  streams  Yarana 
{modemBama  )and  Asior  Ashi(ritm^e«). 
The  former,  a  river  of  some  size  on  the 
N.  and  E.  of  the  city;  the  latter,  a 
rivnlet  now  embraced  within  its  area. 

The  site  of  Benares  has  often  been 
chan^d,  but  there  is  good  ground  for 
supposing  that  the  first  city  was  built 
at  SamcUh,  The  past  historjr  of  this, 
one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in  India, 
is  involved  in  obscurity.  It  is,  how- 
ever, certain  that  it  was  a  most  flourish- 
ing and  important  place  6  centuries 
before  the  Christian  era,  for  Sakya 
Muni,  who  was  bom  about  557  b.c., 
and  died  in  478  B.C.,  came  to  it  from 
Gays  to  establish  his  religion,  which 
he  -would  not  have  done  had  it  not  been 
then  a  great  centre.  Many  of  the  most 
important  writers  of  the  Hindus  were 
first  heard  of  at  Benares.  Of  inter- 
mediate events  little  is  known,  but  we 


learn  from  Husain  Nizami's  history 
that  in  1194  a.d.  Jaychand,  Rajah  Ol 
Benares,  "whose  army  was  countless  as 
the  sand,"  was  defeated  and  killed  by 
Kutb-ud-din,  the  general  of  Shahab- 
ud-din  Ghori.  Kutb  destroyed  1000 
temples,  and  built  mosques  on  their 
sites.  From  that  date  Benares  was 
governed  by  the  Moslems,  and  became 
part  of  the  province  of  Allahabad.  It 
IS  due  to  the  iconoclastic  spirit  of  the 
conquerors  that  hardly  a  single  build- 
ing can  be  found  in  Benares  which 
dates  beyond  the  time  of  Akbar. 

The  ornamental  Brass- Work  which 
is  met  with  all  over  the  world  is  a 
spedaUU  of  Benares  ;  but  the  modern 
work  is  far  less  carefidly  executed  than 
the  old,  which  is  now  difficult  to  pro- 
cure. Small  idols  and  other  images  in 
brass  and  other  materials  are  made  in 
great  quantities  in  the  narrow  lanes 
around  the  golden  temple. 

Shawls,  silks,  ana  embroideries 
may  also  be  purchased  here. 

As  the  finest  view  of  Benares  is 
obtained  from  the  river  Ganges,  the 
banks  of  which  are  bordered  by  Ghats, 
or  flights  of  stone  steps,  descending  to 
the  water  from  the  most  famous  build- 
ings in  the  city,  the  traveller  will  do 
w^l  to  spend  some  time  in  a  boat, 
passing  along  the  whole  of  the  river 
frontage,  where,  in  the  morning  especi- 
ally, he  will  see  crowds  of  the  people 
coming  down  to  bathe  and  drink  the 
water  of  the  sacred  river. 

For  those  who  are  pressed  for  time,  it 
will  be  sufficient  to  see  the  Observatory, 
the  Monkey  Temple,  and  the  whole 
length  of  the  Ghato,  and  disembark  at 
the  Fanchganga  to  see  the  Golden 
Temple.     The  rest  may  be  omitted. 

Particulars  regarding  these  Ghats  and 
the  buildings  near  them  are  given  be- 
low. The  river  and  native  town  are 
nearly  2  m.  from  the 

Cantonment,  where  a  detachment  of 
Europeans  and  a  native  regiment  are 
stationed.  Near  the  Hotel  is  St.  Mary's 
Church,  with  some  old  tombs,  and  the 
Benares  Ooverzmient  College,  a  building 
in  the  Perpendicular  style,  called  Queen's 
college.  It  contains  an  ArchsBological 
Museum. 

To  the   N.    of   the   Collage   is  an 


40 


ROUTE  1.      BOMBAT  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


ancient  monoUtli,  81^  ft  hieh,  with 
ftn  English  inscription  attached.  It 
wasfoundnearGhaziiiur.  On  the  obelisk 
there  is  an  inscription  in  the  Gupta 
character.  To  the  E.  of  the  grounds 
are  carved  stones  brought  from  Samath, 
Bakariya  Eund,  and  other  places. 

Should  the  traveller  desire  to  go 
first  to  the  Raj  Ghat,  near  the  Railway 
Bridge,  by  the  Grand  Trunk  road,  he  will 
pass  the  Nandeshwar  Kothi,  a  residence 
of  the  Mahan^a  of  Benares.  In  this 
house,  Mr.  Davis,  Judge  and  Magistrate 
of  Benares,  was  attacked  by  uie  fol- 
lowers of  Vazir  *Ali,  the  deposed  Nawab 
of  Oudh,  who  had  just  killed  Mr. 
Cherry,  the  British  Resident,  on  the 
14th  of  January  1799.  Mr.  Davis  sent 
his  wife  and  two  children  on  to  the  roof, 
and,  with  a  spear,  placed  himself  at  the 
top  of  the  staircase  leading  to  it,  where 
he  so  successfully  defended  himself  that 
his  assailants  contented  themselves  with 
destroying  the  furniture,  and  watching 
their  opportunity.  Vazir  *Ali  then 
sent  for  materials  to  fire  the  house,  but 
Mr.  Davis  was  rescued  by  the  arrival 
of  a  regiment  of  cavalry.  The  house 
at  present  is  lent  by  the  Maharaja  to 
persons  of  rank  who  visit  Benares. 
The  furniture  and  pictures  seem  to  be 
of  Mr.  Davis's  time.  The  garden  is 
pretty. 

The  Church  HisBion  House  at  Sigra 
is  IJ  m.  to  the  W.  St.  Paul's 
Church  is  1  m.  due  S.  of  the  rly. 
Stat.,  and  was  finished  in  1847. 
There  is  an  Orphanage  for  girls  and 
boys  attached,  also  Normal  and  Indus- 
trial Schools  for  Women.  Thence  the 
traveller  can  drive  1 J  m.  to  the  Maha- 
raja  of   Vijayanagram's   Palace    at 


Belipur.  Permission  must  be  obtained 
to  see  the  house  from  the  agent  of  the 
Maharaja.  There  is  a  good  view  from 
the  terraced  roof  of  the  palace  over  the 
Ganges,  in  the  direction  of  Aurangzib's 
mosque.  The  Golden  Temple  is  seen 
to  the  E.N.E.  Close  to  the  palace  on 
the  W.  are  several  Jain  Temples. 

Native  Town. 

The  Dnrga  Temple  is  sometimes 
called  the  Monkey  Templeby  Europeans, 
from  the  myriads  of  monkeys  which 
inhabit  the  large  trees  near  it.  The 
temple  is  about  three-fifths  of  a  mile  S. 
of  file  Vijayanagram  Palace.  It  is 
stained  red  with  ochre,  and  it  stands 
in  a  quadrangle  surrounded  by  high 
walls.  In  front  of  the  principal  entrance 
is  the  band  room,  where  the  priests 
beat  a  large  drum  three  times  a  day. 
The  central  portion  is  supported  by 
twelve  curiously  carved  pmars,  on  a 
platform  raised  4  ft.  from  the  ground. 
The  doors  are  plated  with  brass,  and 
there  are  two  bells.  The  temple  and 
the  fine  tank  adjoining  were  constructed 
by  the  Rani  of  Natre  in  the  last  cen- 
tury. As  Duiga  is  the  terrific  form 
of  Shiva's  wife,  and  is  said  to  delight 
in  destruction,  bloody  sacrifices  are 
offered  to  her,  and  goat's  blood  may  be 
seen  sprinkled  about. 

From  this  temple  the  traveller  may 
proceed  to  the  Ghats,  embarking  at 
the  Man  Mandir  Ghat,  and  rowing 
slowly  past  in  front  of  them.  The 
Ghats  are  here  given  in  succession 
from  the  W.  proceeding  down  stream. 
A  detailed  description  follows  the 
list 


Table  of  Ghats  and  Buildinos  adjoining  them 


Names  of  the  Qh&pi  or  flights  of  steps 
firom  S.  to  N. 

Names  of  the  Buildings  adjacent  to 
each  Ghdt. 

1.  Ashi  Ghiti  or  Asi  Sangam  Ghiti 

2.  Uli  Miar  Gh4t  or  Bachhr^  Ghif. 

8.  TulfllGhAt  .        .        .        ;       .       .        . 

1.  The  Monastery  of  Tulsl  Dds,  Jaganndth 

Temple  to  W. 
3.  Kqtu.  Ghatr  Temple. 

4.  R4o  SAhfb  GhAt  •                .... 

5.  Akral  6h&t. 

6.  Shiy^  Gh4t 

4.  Image  of  Bhlm. 

A     Vhm  Mfthal.  Ppitiaa  of  PiblU'ff  hoilflfl. 

7.  DaiKji  GhAt. 

8.  Haniun&ix  Oh&t;> 

BOUTB  1.       BBKABES 


41 


Names  of  the  Ghdts  or  flights  of  steps 

Names  of  the  Buildings  ac^acent  to 
each  Ghit. 

from  S.  to  N. 

».  SmashAnorMashinGhdl;.         .       .       . 

9. 

The  Cremation  Ground. 

10.  TiAliGhiti. 

11.  KeddrGhAt; 

12.  Ghaiak  or  Ghanki  Ghdj:     .        .        .        . 

11. 

Eedimith  Temple. 

12. 

Minsarovar,  a  tank  surrounded  by  shrines. 

18.  GhatrGhAtorlldjiGh&l^          .        .        . 

18. 

The  Ghatr  or  Best-house  of  Raja  Amrita 

14.  Someshwar  Ghit. 

Rio. 

15.  PandeGhit. 

Id.  NandGhdIf. 

17.  GhatrGhdf. 

18.  Bengali  TolA  Ghit. 

19.  Gum  Pant  Ghdt. 

20.  Chaosathi  Gh4l^ 

20. 

Temple  of  the  Goddess  Chausathi. 

21.  Bdnd  Ghdt 

22.  MnTiRhlGhit 

21. 

Built  by  the  Rini  of  Oodeypur. 

22. 

A  fine  building  at  head  of  stairs. 

28.  Ahalya  B&('8  Ghit- 

24.  Sltl&Ghi$. 

25.  Dasashwamedh  Ghit 

25. 

The  Observatory. 

Mahalla  Agast  Eund  (best  point  for  em- 

26. MinMandirGhit 

26. 

27.  Bhairava  Gh&tu 

barking). 

28.  M^Ghit. 

29.  LalitaGhit. 

30.  NinAI  Ghit . 

80. 

Temple  of  Bi^heshwar  or  Golden  Temple 
and  Holy  Well 

81.  JalSiinGhi^ 

82.  Kayasth  Ohbt 

88.  MagikaraDiki  Ghit 

83. 

Temple  of  Tirkeshwara,  Well  of  Mani- 
karaniki.    Cremation  Ground. 

84.  Sindia'sGhit      .              .... 

85.  Bhfm  ka  Gha*. 

84. 

Broken  Wall. 

86.  Ga^esh  Ghit. 

87.  Ghosla  Ghit. 

88.  H&m  Ghit 

88. 

Temple  of  Rim. 

Confluence  of  the  Dhantapipi,  Jara^in. 

89.  Fdnchganga  Ghit 

89. 

ida,  Eir^inada,  Saraswati,  and  Qanga, 

the  first  four  underground.     Aurang- 

zib's  Mosque,  called   Midhu   Dis  ki 

^>eorhi. 

40.  Dorgi  or  EiU  Ghit. 

41.  Hindu  Midhava  Ghit- 

42.  GauGhit 

42. 

Stone  figure  of  a  cow. 

43.  TrUochana  Ghat  (or  Pilpilla  Tilth)  •        • 

43. 

Houses  of  the  DihU  family  and  Cemetery 

44.  telianila  Ghit 

45.  Haitra  Gh^t- 

46.  Prahlid  Ghit. 

ofMakhdum^ihib 

47.  Bij  Gh&t     ....... 

47. 

Bridge  of  Boats. 

The  Ashi  Ghat  is  one  of  the  five  cele- 
brated places  of  pilgrimage  in  Benares. 
The  channel  of  the  Ashi,  which  here 
falls  into  the  Ganges,  is  dry  during  the 
cold  weather.  It  is  about  40  ft.  broad, 
llie  steps  at  this  Ghat  are  a  good  deal 
broken,  and  though  one  of  the  most 
sacred,  it  is  certainly  not  one  of  the 
handsomest  Ghats.  This  is  the  nearest 
Ghat  from  which  to  cross  to  Bamnagar, 
the  palace  of  the  Maharaja  of  Benares. 
The  next  Ghat  is  the  Bachhraj  or  Lata 
Misr  Ghat.  Here  the  Jains  have  built 
two  temples,  which  stand  on  the  bank 
of  the  Ganges.  At  the  K.  end  of  Tnlel 
Ohat^  whi(m  comes  next,  huge  masses 
of  the  building  have  fallen,  and  lie  on 


the  river's  edge.  At  Bao  Sahib  Ghat 
is  a  huge  recumbent  image  of  Bhim, 
which  is  said  to  be  annually  washed 
away  and  restored.  The  traveller  will 
now  pass  the  Akrul  Ghat  and  come  to 
the  Shivala  Ghat.  Here  stands  the 
fort  in  which  Chait  Sing  resided.  It 
is  a  handsome  building,  and  appears  as 
fresh  as  when  first  constructed.  In 
the  upper  part  of  the  N.  wall  are  five 
small  windows  in  a  row,  from  one  of 
which  Chait  Sing  made  his  escape, 
when  he  fled  from  Warren  Hastings  in 
1781.  It  is  now  called  the  Khali 
Mahal,  or  *'  empty  palace,"  and  be- 
longs to  Government  In  this  vast 
building  two  companies  of  Sepoys  and 


42 


BOUTB  1.       BOMB  AT  TO  OALOUTTA. 


Indta 


three  officers,  who  were  sent  by  Hastings 
to  arrest  Chait  Sing,  were  massacred  by 
a  mob,  owing  to  the  soldiers  having 
come  without  their  ammunition.  When 
fresh  troops  reached  the  palace,  Chait 
Sing  had  ned.  The  Shivala  Ghat  is  one 
of  tne  finest  and  most  crowded  of  the 
Ghats.  Fart  of  it  is  assigned  to  the 
religious  ascetics  called  Gosains.  The 
next  is  the  Daadi  Ghat,  and  is  devoted 
to  the  staff- bearing  ascetics  called 
Dandi  Pants.  It  is  also  very  laige. 
The  Hanuman  Ghat,  which  comes  next, 
is  large  and  generally  crowded.  At  the 
Smashan  Ghat»  i>yres  for  cremation  may 
be  seen  being  built,  while  bodies  wra^t 
up  in  white  or  red  cloths  lie  with  their 
feet  in  the  Ganges  ready  to  be  burned. 
Passing  the  Lali  Ghat,  the  Kedar 
Ghat,  which  comes  next,  deserves  at- 
tention. According  to  the  religious 
books  of  the  Hindus,  the  city  is  divided 
into  three  great  portions — Benares, 
Kashi,  from  whence  the  popular  name, 
and  Eedar.  Eedar  is  a  name  of  Shiva, 
but  it  also  signifies  a  mountain,  and 
especially  a  part  of  the  Himalayan 
mountains,  of  which  Shiva  is  the  lord, 
hence  called  Kedamath.  His  temple, 
or  rather  the  top  of  it,  may  be  seen 
from  the  river  at  this  Ghat.  It  is 
much  resorted  to  by  the  Bengali  and 
Tailangi  ^p.  of  the  city.  The  temple 
is  a  spacious  building,  the  centre  of 
which  is  supposed  to  be  the  pli^  where 
Kedarnath  dwells.  At  the  four  comers 
are  Shivalas,  with  cupolas.  Here  are 
two  brass  figures,  hidden  by  a  cloth, 
which  is  removed  on  payment  of  a  fee. 
The  walls  and  pillars  are  painted  red 
or  white.  There  are  two  large  black 
figures,  which  represent  the  dwarpals, 
or  janitors ;  each  has  four  hands  holding 
a  trident,  a  flower,  a  club,  and  the  fourth 
empty,  to  push  away  intruders.  At 
the  bottom  of  the  Ghat  is  a  well  called 
the  Gauri  Kund,  or  "well  of  Gauri," 
Shiva's  wife,  the  waters  of  which  are 
said  to  be  efficacious  in  curing  fevers, 
dysentery,  etc  To  the  W.  at  600  yds. 
is  the  Manaarovar  tank,  round  wnich 
are  60  shrines.  Manas  or  Mansarovar 
is  a  fabulous  tank  in  the  Himalayan 
mountains,  near  Kailas,  or  Shiva's 
heaven.  Near  the  tank  at  Benares  so 
called  ii  a  stone  4^  ft.  high,  and  15^  ffc. 


in  periphery,  which  is  said  to  grow  daily 
to  the  extent  of  a  sesamum  seed.  In  a 
street  to  the  E.  of  the  tank  are  figaxes  of 
Balkrishna,  or  the  infant  Erishna,  and 
Chatrbhuj  or  Vishnu.  Close  by  is  a 
Shivala,  built  by  Bajah  Man  Sing,  and 
called  Maneshwar.  At  the  Chauki 
Ghat  is  the  place  where  serpents  are 
worshipped.  Here,  under  a  pippal 
tree,  are  many  idols  and  figoies  of 
snakes.  In  a  street  close  by,  called 
Eewal,  is  a  figure  of  Durga  with  ten 
arms. 

The  next  Ghat,  where  the  stairs 
ascend  into  a  large  house  or  aarai  built 
by  Amrit  Rao  for  travellers,  is  the  Chatr 
or  Rajah  Ghat.  On  leaving  it  the 
traveller  reaches  the  Someahvar  Ghat 
so  called  from  the  adjacent  temple  of 
the  moon,  Sovna  being  the  "moon,  and 
Ishwa/r  "lord."  At  this  Ghat  evenr 
kind  of  disease  is  supposed  to  be  healed. 
Close  by  is  an  alley,  in  which  is  the 
shrine  of  Barahan  Devi,  a  female 
iBsculapius,  who  is  worshipped  in  the 
morning,  and  is  supposed  to  cure 
swelled  hands  and  feet.  From  Chauki 
to  Pande  Ghat  the  water  is  very  dirty, 
owing  to  a  lar^e  drain,  which  pours  the 
filth  of  the  city  into  this  part  of  the 
Ganges.  There  is  nothing  particular 
to  be  seen  at  the  next  four  Ghats,  but 
the  one  after  them,  ChauBathi  Ohat, 
is  one  of  the  most  ancient  at  Benares. 
Here,  in  a  narrow  lane,  is  a  temple  to 
the  goddess  Chausathi  Chausathi 
signifies  ''sixty-four."  The  Sana  Ghat, 
built  by  the  Maha  Rana  of  Oodeypur, 
is  not  much  frequented  by  Hindus. 
It  is  the  special  place  for  the  bathing 
of  the  Mohammedans.  The  Mtmshi 
Ghat  is  the  most  picturesque  of  all  the 
Ghats  at  Benares.  It  was  built  by 
Munshi  Shri  Dhar,  Diwan  of  the  Eajah 
of  Nagpur.  Notice  the  building  at  the 
top  of  nie  stair.  Of  the  two  next  Ghats 
nothing  particular  is  to  be  said.  SitIa 
Ghat  signifies  "  small-pox  Ghat,"  over 
which  a  Hindu  goddess  presides. 

Dasashwamedh  Ghat  is  one  of  the 
five  celebrated  places  of  pilgrimage  in 
Benares.  It  is  specially  thronged 
during  eclipses.  Here  Brahma  is  said 
to  have  ofl!ered  in  sacrifice  ten  horses, 
and  to  have  made  the  place  eqiuJ  in 
merit  to  Allahabad. 


BOUTE  1.       BBNARBS 


43 


The  trayeller  may  disembark  here 
and  walk  to  the  SEaji  Mandir  Ghat  to 
see  the  Obsenratory.  This  lofty  build- 
ing gives  a  fine  appearance  to  the  Ghat, 
and  commands  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
river.  It  was  erected  by  Rajah  Jay- 
sing,  the  founder  of  Jeypore  in 
Rajputana^  who  succeeded  the  Eajas 
of  Amber  in  1693.  Chosen  by  Mu- 
hammad Shah  to  reform  the  calendar, 
his  astronomical  observations  were 
formulated  in  tables,  which  corrected 
those  of  De  la  Hire.  He  built  five 
observatories  —  at  Delhi,  Benares, 
Muttra,  Ujjain,  and  Jeypore.  On 
entering  the  Observatory  the  first  in- 
strument seen  is  the  Bhittiyantra,  or 
'*  mural  quadrant."  It  is  a  wall  11  ft. 
high  and  9  ft  IJ  in.  broad,  in  the  plane 
of  the  meridian ;  by  this  are  ascer- 
tained the  sun's  altitude  and  zenith 
distance,  and  its  greatest  declination, 
and  hence  the  lati  tude.  Then  come  two 
large  circles,  one  of  stone  and  the  other 
of  cement,  and  a  stone  square,  used, 
perhaps,  for  ascertaining  the  shadow  of 
the  gnomon  and  the  degrees  of  azimuth. 
Next  the  Yantrasamant  will  be  seen, 
the  wall  of  which  is  36  ft.  long  and  4 J 
ft.  broad,  and  ia  set  in  the  plane  of  the 
meridian.  One  end  is  6  ft.  4^  in.  high, 
and  the  other  22  ft.  8)  in.,  and  it 
slopes  gradually  up,  so  as  to  point  to 
the  North  Pole.  By  this,  the  distance 
from  the  meridian,  the  declination  of 
any  planet  or  star  and  of  the  sun,  and 
the  right  ascension  of  a  star  are  cal- 
culated. There  are  here  a  double 
mural  quadrant,  an  equinoctial  circle 
of  stone,  and  another  Yantrasamant. 
Close  by  is  the  Ohakrayantra,  between 
two  walls,  used  for  finding  the  de- 
clination of  a  planet  or  star  ;  and  near 
it  a  Digansayantra,  to  find  the  degrees 
of  azimuth  of  a  planet  or  star. 

At  Bhairava  Ghat  is  a  Shivala,  as 
Bhairava  is  only  a  terrific  form  of 
Shiva.  The  idol  here  is  said  to  be  the 
Eotwal,  or  magistrate  of  the  city, 
who  rides  about  on  an  invisible  dog. 
There  is  an  image  of  a  dog  close  to  the 
idol,  and  the  confectioners  near  sell 
images  of  dogs  made  of  sugar,  which 
are  offered  to  it.  A  Brahman  waves  a 
&n  of  peacock's  feathers  over  visitors 


to  protect  them  from  evil  spirits,  and 
they  in  return  must  drop  offerings 
into  the  cocoa-nut  shell  he  holds.  The 
idol  is  of  stone,  with  a  face  of  silver, 
and  four  hands.  The  temple  was 
built  in  1826  by  Rajah  Rao  of  Poena. 
There  ate  several  other  idols,  and 
among  them  one  of  Sitla,  goddess  of 
smallpox,  the  offerings  at  which  are 
taken  by  men  of  the  gardener  caste, 
as  they  are  the  professional  in- 
oculators  of  India.  At  this  place 
dogs  are  daily  fed  by  a  Gosain,  who 
has  servants  under  him,  who  make  up 
cakes  of  wheat,  barley,  or  jowari  flour. 
On  festivals  the  dogs  have  cakes  of 
wheaten  flour,  butter,  and  sugar.  The 
traveller  will  come  next  to  the  Mir 
GYukt,  which  was  built  by  Rustam'  Ali 
Khan,  Nazim  of  Benares.  It  now  be- 
longs to  the  Maharaja  of  Benares. 
From  this  the  Nipalese  Temple  is  seen, 
a  picturesque  object,  but  disfigured  by 
indecent  carvings.  It  does  not  re- 
semble in  the  least  the  Hindu  temples. 
It  is  popularly  called  the  Nipali 
Kharpa.  up  a  flight  of  steps  behind 
this  temple  is  a  Wrestler's  College. 
The  manager  welcomes  visitors,  and 
the  performance  of  his  pupils  is  curious 
and  interesting. 

The  famous  Oolden  Temple  (see 
below)  is  between  this  Ghat  and  the 
Jal  Sain  Ghat. 

The  Kayasth  Ohat  is  of  no  im- 
portance. The  Manikaranilca  Ohat, 
one  of  the  five  celebrated  places  of 
Hindu  pilgrimage  in  Benares,  is  con- 
sidered the  most  sacred  of  all  the 
Ghats,  and  in  November  is  visited 
by  multitudes  of  pilgrims.  It  is  also 
at  the  central  point  of  the  city,  so 
that  if  a  line  were  drawn  from  it 
to  the  W.,  it  would  divide  Benares 
into  two  portions  N.  and  S.  Just 
above  the  night  of  steps  is  the  Mani- 
karanika  "Well,  and  between  it  and 
the  steps  is  the  temple  of  Tarkesh- 
wara.  Below  this  temple  the  bodies 
of  Hindus  are  burned.  The  well  has 
its  name  from  Mcmi,  "a  jewel,"  and 
Kdmaf  **the  ear,"  Devi  or  Mahadeo 
having  dropped  an  ear-ring  into  it. 
During  the  eclipse  of  the  sun  it 
is  visited  by  millions  of  pilgrims. 
The  well,  or,  more  properly,  tank,  is 


44 


ROUTE  1.       BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


85  ft.  sq.,  and  stone  steps  lead  down  to 
the  water.  Offerings  of  the  Bel  tree, 
flowers,  milk,  sandal-wood,  sweetmeats, 
and  water  are  thrown  into  it ;  and  from 
the  putrefaction  of  these  a  stench  arises 
equal  to  that  which  ascends  from  the 
Well  of  Knowledge.  It  may  be  men- 
tioned that  at  the  Cremation  Ground 
below  the  fire  must  be  brought  firom 
the  house  of  a  Domra,  a  man  of  yery 
low  caste.  The  Domra  who  has  the 
monopoly  of  giving  fire  for  cremation 
is  very  wealthy,  as  fees  are  demanded 
and  given  up  to  1000  rs.  At  Tarkesh- 
wara  the  idol  is  kept  in  a  reservoir  of 
water.  At  this  Ghat  is  the  Charana- 
paduka,  a  round  slab  projecting  slightly 
from  the  pavement,  on  which  stands  a 
pedestal  of  stone :  on  its  marble  top  are 
2  imprints,  said  to  have  been  made  by 
the  feet  of  Vishnu.  At  the  second 
flight  of  steps  of  this  Ghat  is  a  temple 
to  Siddha  Vinayak,  or  Ganesh.  The 
idol  has  three  eyes,  is  painted  red,  and 
has  a  silver  scalp,  and  an  elephant's 
trunk  covered  with  a  bib,  which 
resembles  a  barber's  cloth  wrapped 
about  a  man  when  he  is  about  to  be 
shaved.  At  the  feet  of  the  image  is 
the  figure  of  a  rat,  which  is  the  Yahana 
or  **  vehicle  "  of  Ganesh. 

The  traveller  will  now  proceed  to 
Sindia's  Ohat,  which  is  curious  from 
the  fact  that  its  massive  structure  has 
sunk  several  feet,  and  is  still  gradually 
sinking.  The  temple  on  the  left  of  the 
S.  turret  is  rent  from  top  to  bottom, 
as  are  the  stairs  leading  to  the  curtain, 
between  the  turrets.  It  was  built  by 
Baiza  Bai,  who  constructed  the  colon- 
nade round  the  Well  of  Knowledge, 
but  was  left  unfinished.  Passing  over 
the  next  -two  Ghats,  the  traveller  will 
come  to  the  Ghosla  Ghat,  which  was 
built  by  the  Nagpur  Raja,  and  is  very 
massive  and  handsome.  Bam  Ghat 
jcomes  next,  and  is  much  frequented 
by  Marathas.  On  the  steps  is  a  very 
sacred  temple. 

The  next  is  the  Panchganga  Ghat, 
beneath  which  6  rivers  are  supposed 
to  meet..  Above  it  rises  Aurangzib's 
mosque,  called  in  maps  **the  Minarets." 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  minarets 
(150  ft.  high)  of  the  town  beneath  is 
very  striking. 


Passing  the  Dnzga  Ghat,  the  traveller 
will  come  next  to  the  Bindu  Madhava 
Ghat,  which  was  formerly  dedicated  to 
Madhava  or  Krishna,  whose  temple 
was  rased  by  Aurangzib.  The  next 
Ghat  is  the  Gau  Ghat,  so  called  from 
the  number  of  cows  that  resort  to  it, 
and  also  from  the  stone  figure  of  a  cow 
there. 

The  Trilochana  Ghat,  also  called  the 
Pilpilla  Tirth,  will  next  be  reached. 
The  pilgrim  bathes  in  the  Ganges  at 
this  Ghat,  and  then  proceeds  to  the 
Panchganga,  and  there  bathes  again. 
There  are  two  turrets  at  the  Trilochana 
Ghat,  and  the  water  between  Ihem 
possesses  a  special  sanctity.  Passing 
the  three  next  Ghats  the  traveller  will 
arrive  at  the  BaJ  Ghat  near  the  Bridge. 
On  the  morning  of  the  1st  May  1850  a 
terrific  explosion  took  place  here,  owing 
to  a  magazine  fleet  blowing  up,  when 
lying  at  this  Ghat.  All  the  buildings 
near  were  shattered.  At  the  junction 
of  the  Ganges  and  the  Bama  is  a  piece 
of  high  ground  which  in  the  Mutiny 
was  strongly  fortified,  and  has  ever 
since  been  called  the  Baj  Ghat  Fort 

The  Golden  Temple  is  dedicated  to 
Bisheshwar,  the  Poison  God,  or  Shiva — 
a  word  compounded  of  Fish,  **  poison," 
and  Ishtoar,  ''god,"  because  Shiva 
swallowed  the  poison  when  the  gods 
and  demons  churned  the  ocean.  The 
temple  is  in  a  roofed  quadrangle,  above 
which  rises  the  tower.  At  each  comer 
is  a  dome,  and  at  the  S.E.  a  Shivala. 
The  temple  is  surrounded  by  verv  nar- 
row crowded  streets.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance, with  its  finely  wrought  brass 
doors,  is  a  shop  where  flowers  are  sold 
for  offerings.  The  visitor  may  enter  the 
shop  and  ascend  to  the  story  above, 
which  is  on  a  level  with  the  three 
towers  of  the  temple.  The  red  conical^ 
tower  1.  is  that  of  Mahadeo's  temple  ; 
next  to  it  is  a  gilt  dome,  and  on  the 
rt.  is  the  gilt  tower  of  Bisheshwar's 
temple.  The  three  are  in  a  tow  in  the 
centre  of  the  quadrangle,  which  they 

1  Tliese  conical  towers,  almost  universal  in 
Hindu  temples,  are  called  SiJcraa  or  Fimano^. 
The  origin  of  their  peculiar  form  is  anknown. 


ROUTE  1.       BBNARES 


45 


almost  fill  npt  They  are  covered  witli 
gold  plates,  over  plates  of  copper  wliich 
cover  the  stones.  The  ex^nse  of  gilding 
was  defrayed  by  Maharaja  Ranijt  Sing 
of  Lahore.  The  temple  of  Bisheshwar 
is  51  ft.  high.  Between  it  and  the 
temple  of  Mahadeo  hang  nine  bells  from 
j  a  carved  stone  framewoi  One  of  these, 
and  the  most  elegant,  was  presented  by 
the  Maharaja  of  Nipal.  The  temple 
of  Mahadeo  was  boilt  bv  Ahalya  Bai, 
Maharana  of  Indore.  Outside  the  en- 
dosm^,  and  to  the  N.  of  it,  is  the  Court 
of  Mahadeo,  where  on  a  platform  are  a 
nmnber  of  Lingams,  and  many  small 
idols  are  built  into  the  wall.  They  are 
thought  to  have  belonged  to  the  old 
temple  of  Bisheshwar,  wmch  stood  N.W. 
of  the  present  one,  and  was  destroyed 
by  Aurangzib.  Bemains  of  this  temple 
are  still  to  be  seen,  and  form  part  of  a 
mosque  which  Aurangzib  built,  where 
the  old  temple  stood  (see  below). 

In  the  quadrangle  between  the 
mosque  and  the  Temple  of  Bishesh- 
var  is  the  famous  Jnan  Knp,  "  Well 
of  Knowledge,"  where  the  Hindus 
suppose  that  Shiva  resides.  The  quad- 
rangle itself  is  unpleasant,  but  in  that 
respect  feUs  short  of  the  well,  which 
is  absolutely  fetid,  from  the  decaying 
flowers  thrown  Into  it,  notwithstanding 
that  it  has  a  grating  over  it,  overspread 
with  a  doth ;  for  in  this  cloth  there 
are  large  ^ps,  and  flowers  are  continu- 
ally falling  through  them.  The 
votaries  also  throw  down  water ;  and 
as  they  are  not  at  all  particular  how 
they  throw  it,  they  make  the  pave- 
ment one  vast  puddle,  and  besprinkle 
their  fellow-worshippers  all  over,  so 
that  the  clothes  of  many  of  them  are 
in  a  dripping  state.  It  is  said  that 
when  the  old  temple  of  Bisheshwar  was 
destroyed,  a  priest  threw  the  idol  into 
this  well,  hence  its  uncommon  sanctity. 
The  platform  is  thronged  by  men  and 
women,  and  the  horrible  din  of  gongs 
and  voices  deafens  the  visitor.  Crowds 
of  fresh  pilgrims  arrive  incessantly ; 
and  as  numbers  of  cows  are  mixed  up 
in  the  throng,  and  must  be  treated 
with  great  consideration,  the  jostling 
is  something  terrific.  The  roof  and 
colonnade  of  this  quadrangle  were  built 
in  1828,  by  Baiza  Bai)  widow  of  Daulat 


Bao  Sindia.  To  the  E.  of  the 
colonnade  is  a  stone  Nandi,  given  by 
the  Raja  of  Nipal,  7  ft.  high.  On  the 
S.  side  of  the  colonnade  is  an  iron 
palisade,  within  which  is  a  shrine 
of  white  marble,  and  one  of  white 
stone,  and  a  carved  stone  support, 
from  which  hangs  a  bell.  Around  are 
many  richly  carved  small  temples, 
particularly  one  to  the  S.  of  Bishesh- 
war, and  the  gateways  of  the  court- 
yard are  similarly  carved,  and  small 
gilded  spires  add  to  the  picturesqueness 
of  the  scene. 

Aurangzib'e  Mosque,  ''whose  tall 
and  graceful  minarets  still  form  one 
of  the  most  prominent  features  in 
every  view  of  the  city"  (Fergusson), 
is  otherwise  of  no  great  magnificence. 
This  mosque,  built  to  insult  the  Hindus 
in  one  of  their  most  sacred  localities, 
has  led  to  much  animosity  between 
them  and  the  Moslems.  The  Hindus 
claim  the  courtyard  between  the  mosque 
and  the  wall,  and  will  not  allow  the 
Moslems  to  enter  by  the  front  of  the 
mosque,  but  only  on  one  side.  The 
Moslems  built  a  gateway  in  front  of 
the  mosque,  which  still  stands,  but  no 
Moslem  can  enter  by  it,  and  the  space 
between  the  pillars  has  been  built  up. 
A  Ficus  religiosa  tree  overshadows  the 
gateway  and  the  road,  but  the  Hindus 
will  not  suffer  the  Moslems  to  touch  a 
leaf  of  it.  The  British  Government 
acts  as  trustee  of  the  mosque,  and 
allows  certain  moneys  belonging  to  it 
to  be  paid  into  the  Treasury,  and  to  be 
periodically  made  over  for  the  benefit 
of  the  trust.  During  the  period  of 
nearly  two  centuries  since  the  mosque 
was  built  not  a  stone  has  been  loosened. 
It  was  constructed  on  the  site  of  a 
magnificent  temple  of  Madhava,  or 
Krishna.  A  small  number  of  the 
faithful  assemble  here  on  Fridays, 
otherwise  it  is  deserted. 

The  traveller  can  ascend  the  central 
staircase,  which  leads  to  the  roof,  by  two 
most  precipitous  flights  of  steps.  There 
are  ropes  on  either  side.  The  view  from 
the  minarets  is  picturesque. 

Just  outside  the  Golden  Temple  is 
the  Shrine  of  Sanichar,  or  Shani,  the 
planet    Saturn    or   its   regent.      The 


46 


BOUTS  1.      BOHBAT  TO  0ALCX7TTA 


IndM 


image  la  a  round  silyer  disc,  from  which 
hangs  an  apron,  or  doth,  which 
prevents  one  remarking  that  it  is  a 
head  without  a  body.  A  garland 
hangs  from  either  ear,  and  a  canopy  is 
spread  above.  A  few  steps  beyond 
this  is  the  Temple  of  Annapnma,  a 
goddess  whose  name  is  compounded 
of  Anna,  *  *  food, "  and  Pv/ma^  *  *who  is 
filled."  She  is  supposed  to  have  express 
orders  firom  Bisneshwar  to  feed  the 
inhabitants  of  Benares.  In  front  of 
this  temple  are  a  number  of  beggars, 
who  pester  all  passers-by.  It  was 
built  about  1721  by  the  Peshwa  of 
that  date,  Baji  Bao.  There  are  four 
shrines  in  this  temple  dedicated  to  the 
Sun,  Ganesh,  Gaun  Shankar,  and  the 
monkey-god  Hanuman.  Near  this  is 
the  temple  of  Sakshi  Vinayak,  the 
witnessing  deity.  It  was  built  in  1770 
by  a  Maratha,  whose  name  is  not 
recorded.  Here  pilgrims,  after  finishing 
the  Panch  Eosi,  or  five  kos  or  10  m. 
circuit  round  Benares,  must  get  a 
certificate  of  having  done  so,  otherwise 
their  labour  goes  for  nothing.  S.  of  the 
temple  to  Shani  is  that  of  Shokaresh- 
war,  Shuka/r  being  the  planet  Yenus 
or  its  regent,  and  idma/r  "god." 
Here  prayers  are  made  for  handsome 
sons.  Between  the  Temple  of  Anna- 
puma,  and  that  of  Sakshi  Vinayak  is  a 
strange  figure  of  Ganesh,  squatting  on 
a  platform  raised  a  little  above  the  ^ath. 
This  ugly  object  is  red,  with  aLlver 
hands,  feet,  ears,  and  elephant's 
trunk. 

After  viewing  too  closely  the  vulgar 
aspect  of  Hindu  worship,  and  suffering 
from  the  smells,  jostlings,  and  noises 
of  the  Golden  Temple,  it  will  be  a  re- 
lief to  visit  the  Carmichael  Library, 
which  was  built  by  public  subscrip- 
tion. 

About  1  m.  N.  from  this  is  the 
Town  Hall,  a  modem  building  of  red 
stone. 


Banmagar  and  Samaih. 

Before  visiting  Eamnagar,  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Maharaja  of  Benares, 
vhich  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 


Ganges,  it  will  be  well  to  ask  peimis* 
sion  to  visit  the  palace.  Having  ob- 
tained this,  the  traveller  will  drive  jjast 
the  Dnrga  Eund  Temple  to  what  is 
called  *the  Banmagar  Ghat  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  Ganges,  opposite  to  a  Ghat 
of  the  same  name  on  the  £.  bank, 
which  is  overlooked  by  the  palace. 
There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  rooms 
which  look  on  the  river. 

At  1  m.  to  the  N.K  -of  the  palace  \&  a 
beautiful  tank,  with  flights  of  stone 
steps  to  the  water's  edge,  and  a  stone 
casm^  all  round.  To  the  N.  of  the 
tank  IS  a  temple  called  Sumer  Mandir. 

Samath. — The  site  of  old  Benares, 
where  Buddha  taught  To  reach  it 
cross  the  Bama  Bridge  and  pass  Warren 
Hastings's  sun-dial  on  E.,  proceed  along 
the  Gha2dpur  Bead  to  the  third  mile- 
stone, and  then  turn  off  to  the  left 
Shortly  after  turning,  two  towers,  one 
of  which  stands  on  a  hUl,  come  in  view. 
In  Fergusson's  Hist,  of  Arch,  is  a  view 
of  this  tower,  or  T(^,  and  also  an 
excellent  account  of  it ;  with  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  panelling.  '*  The  best 
known  as  well  as  the  best  preserved  of 
the  Bengal  topes,  is  that  at  Samath,  near 
Benares.  It  was  carefully  explored  by 
General  Cunningham  in  1835-36,  and 
found  to  be  a  stupa — ^viz.  containing 
no  relics,  but  erected  to  mark  some 
spot  sanctified  by  the  presence  of  Bud- 
dna^  or  by  some  act  of  his  during  Ms 
long  residence  there.  It  is  situated  in 
the  Deer  Park,  where  he  took  up  Ms 
residence,  with  his  five  disciples,  when 
he  first  removed  from  Gaya  on  attaining 
Buddhahood,  and  commencing  his  mis- 
sion as  a  teacher.  What  act  it  com- 
memorates we  shall  probably  never 
know,  as  there  are  several  mounds  in 
the  neighbourhood,  and  the  descriptions 
of  the  Chinese  pilgrims  are  not  suffi- 
ciently precise  to  enable  us  now  to  dis- 
criminate between  them."^ 

The  building  consists  of  a  stone  base- 
ment 93  ft  in  diameter,  and  solidly 
built,  the  stones  being  clamped  together 
with  iron  to  the  height  of  43  ft  Above 
that  it  is  in  brickwork,  rising  to  a 
height  of  110  ft.  above  the  surround- 
ing rains,  and  128  ft  above  the  plain. 
Externally  tbs  lower  part  is  relieved 
1  FergusMA'B  Jtu{ia»  Anhiieetun, 


ROUTE  1.      BUXAB — ARBAH 


47 


by  eight  projectiiig  faces,  each  21  ft  6 
in.  wide,  and  15  ft  apart.  In  each  is 
a  small  niche,  intended  apparently  to 
contain  a  seated  figure  of  Buddha,  and 
below  them,  encircling  the  monument, 
is  a^band  of  sculptured  ornament  of  the 
most  exquisite  beauty.  The  central 
part  consists  of  geometric  patterns  of 
g^t  intricacy,  but  combined  with 
singalar  skill ;  and  above  and  below 
foluige  equally^  well  designed,  and  so 
much  resemblmg  that  carved  by  Hindu 
artists  on  the  earliest  Mohammedan 
mosques  at  i^mere  and  Delhi,  as  to 
make  ns  feel  sure  that  they  cannot  be 
very  distant  in  date. 

"In  his  excavations,  General  Cun- 
ningham found,  buried  in  the  solid 
masonry,  at  the  depth  of  10^  ft.  from 
tibe  summit,  a  large  stone,  on  which 
was  engraved  the  usual  Buddhist  for- 
mula :  *  Ye  dharmma  hetu, '  etc.,  in  char- 
acters belonging  to  the  7th  century." 
Dr.  Fergusson  writes  that  he  is  '*  inclined 
to  adopt  the  tradition  preserved  by 
Captain  Wilford,  to  the  effect  that  the 
Sarnath  monument  was  erected  by  the 
sons  of  Mohi  Pala,  and  destroyed  (in- 
terrapted)  by  the  Mohammedans  in 
1017  A.D. ,  before  its  completion.  The 
form  of  the  monument,  the  character 
of  its  sculptured  ornaments,  the  un- 
finished condition  in  which  it  is  left, 
and  indeed  the  whole  circumstances  of 
the  case,"  he  continues,  "render  this 
date  so  much  the  most  probable,  that  I 
feel  inclined  to  adopt  it  almost  without 
hesitation." 

Sarnath  was  visited  by  the  Chinese 
Buddhist  pilgrims,  Fa-Hian  in  899  A.D., 
and  Hiouen  Thsang  in  629-645  a.d. 
The  former  says  :  "  At  10  li  (2  m.)  to 
the  N.W.  of  Benares  is  the  temple, 
ntoated  in  the  Deer  Park  of  the  Im- 
mortal. "  Hiouen  Thsang  states  that  to 
the  N.£.  of  Benares  was  a  stupa,  built 
by  Asoka,  100  ft.  high,  and  opposite  to 
it  a  stone  column  ''of  blue  colour, 
bright  as  a  nurror."  He  says  the 
monastery  of  the  Deer  Park  was  divided 
into  eight  parts,  and  was  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  within  which  were  balus- 
trades, two-storied  palaces,  and  a  Yi- 
hara,  200  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  an 
An-molo  or  mango  in  embossed  gold. 
"There  were  100  rows  of  niches  round 


the  stupa  of  brick^  each  holding  a 
statue  of  Buddha  in  embossed'  gold. 
To  the-S.W.  of  the  vihara  was  a  stone 
stupa  raised  by  Asoka,  having  in  front 
a  column  70  ft.  high,  on  the  spot  where 
Buddha  delivered  his  first  discourse. 
W.  of  the  monastery  was  a  tank  in 
which  Buddha  bathed,  to  the  W.  of  that 
another  where  he  washed  his  monk's 
water-pot,  and  to  the  N.  a  third  where 
he  washed  his  garments.  Close  to  the 
tanks  was  a  stnpa,  then  another,  and 
then  in  the  midst  of  a  forest  a  third. 
To  the  S.W.  of  the  monastery  at  ^  a  m. 
was  a  stupa,  300  ft.  high,  resplendent 
with  jewels  and  surmounted  by  an 
arrow."  The  Dhamek  Stupa,  the  one 
now  existing,  stands  on  rising  ground, 
and  has  to  the  W.  a  Jain  temple  sur- 
rounded by  an  enclosure.  About  40 
ft  from  the  E.  end  there  is  a  torso  of 
Buddha,  with  the  Brahmanical  Thread. 
There  are  also  a  few  carved  stones.  To 
the  W.  are  acres  of  mounds  and  exca- 
vations, showing  that  there  were  exten- 
sive biuldings  m  that  direction.  At 
370  ft.  to  the  W.  by  S.  of  the  Dhamek 
Stupa,  is  a  round  well  50  ft  in  diameter, 
which  the  guide  calls  the  Rani's  bath. 
It  is  15  ft.  deep,  and  a  torso  of  Buddha 
lies  in  it. 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  well  is  Jagat 
Sing's  Stupa,  so  called  by  Cunning- 
ham, because  Babu  Jagat  Sing,  Diwan 
of  Chait  Sing,  excavated  it  to  get 
bricks  to  build  Jagatganj.  The  other 
tower  stands  on  a  very  steep  mound 
about  100  ft  high.  The  building  is 
octagonal,  and  has  an  Arabic  inscrip- 
tion on  the  N.  side,  and  a  well  down 
the  centre.  ' 

The  objects  of  interest  in  the  CarUon- 
merU  are  the  Mint,  where  the  Europeans 
and  other  Christians  assembled  when 
the  Mutiny  broke  out  in  1857,  the 
yellow  btmgaloWf  where  Warren  Hast- 
ings lived,  and  the  sun-dial  he  erected. 
There  is  a  large  jail,  and  the  necessary 
offices  of  a  large  civil  station.] 

983  m.  Buxar  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  Hotel 

1032  m.  Arrah  sta.,  D.B.  The  special 
interest  that  attaches  to  this  spot  is  in 
connection  with  an  incident  of  the 
Mutiny.       After     some     preliminary 


48 


ROUTE  1.       BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


troubles,  the  Sepoys  at  IXnapur 
mntinied  on  the  24th  July.  They  then 
marched  to  Arrah,  where  they  released 
the  prisoners  in  the  jail,  plundered  the 
treasury,  and,  but  ror  the  gallant  re* 
sistance  offered,  would  have  destroyed 
all  the  Christians  in  the  place.  A 
serious  misfortune  added  enormously 
to  the  difficulties  of  the  situation.  A 
relieving  party  of  about  280  Europeans 
from  Dmapur  fell  into  an  ambuscade 
and  were  nearly  annihilated.  In  the 
meantime  the  little  party  of  English 
at  Arrah  were  holding  out  against  tre- 
mendous odds.  They  were  surrounded 
by  2000  Sepoys,  ana  a  multitude  of 
armed  insurgents,  perhaps  four  times 
that  number.  There  were  about  12 
Englishmen  and  50  Sikhs. 

On  the  27th  of  July  the  Dinapur 
mutinous  Sepoys  attacked  the  little 

firrison  under  Vicars  Boyle,  the  Civil 
ngineer,  and  Hereward  Wake,  but 
were  met  with  such  a  heavy  fire  that 
they  broke  into  groups  and  sheltered 
themselves  by  trees.  The  enemy  had 
recourse  to  various  devices  for  driving 
the  English  out,  but  in  vain.  A  week 
thus  passed,  but  when  the  second 
Sunday  came  round  Major  Vincent 
Eyre,  who  had  fought  his  way  through 
the  enemy's  lines,  arrived  with  4  guns, 
60  English  gunners,  and  about  260  in- 
fantry, and  after  a  very  critical  engage- 
ment against  overwhelming  numbers, 
charged  home,  and  the  enemy  broke 
and  fled  in  confusion. 

The  house  they  defended  stands  in 
the  Judge's  Compound.  It  is  nearly  a 
sq.,  and  has  two  stories,  with  a  veran- 
dah on  three  sides,  supported  by  arches 
which  the  besieged  filled  up  with, 
sand-bags.  The  lower  story  is  a 
little  over  10  ft  high,  and  was  held  by 
50  Sikh  soldiers.  The  garrison  dug  a 
well  in  the  house,  and  that  was  all  3ie 
water  they  had. 

At  about  \  m.  from  the  Judge's 
house  is  St,  S(jmour*8  Churchy  a  very 
small  but  neat  building.  In  this  church 
and  in  a  railed  enclosure  near  the  Col- 
lector's Court-house  are  some  interest- 
ing monuments  and  tombs  of  those 
who  fell  in  this  gallant  defence  and 
rescue. 
Arrah  is  on  a  branch  of  the  Son 


Canal   the    great    irrigation-work   of 
South  Behar.      The  Son  is  crossed  at 

1062  m.  Bankipiirjunc.  sta.,^(B.), 
D.B.,  the  Civil  Station  of  the  district, 
forms  the  western  extremity  of  the  city 
of  Patna  (sta.  6  m.  farther  E.)  (170,000 
inhab.),  which  covers  10  sq.  m.,  and 
with  its  suburbs  extends  9  m.  along 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Ganges,  but  con- 
tains nothing  of  much  interest  to  the 
traveller,  except  a  building  called  the 
Golah,  which  was  built  for  a  granaiy 
in  1783,  but  has  never  been  used  for 
that  purpose.  It  is  426  ft  round  at 
the  base,  built  of  masonry,  with  walls 
12  ft.  2  in.  in  thickness,  the  interior 
diameter  being  109  ft.  It  is  about  90 
ft  high,  and  might  contain  137,000 
tons.  Inside  there  is  a  most  wonderful 
echo,  the  best  place  to  hear  which  is  in 
the  middle  of  the  building.  As  a 
whispering  gallery  there  is  perhaps 
no  such  building  in  the  worla  The 
faintest  whisper  at  one  end  is  heard 
most  distinctly  at  the  other.  As  a 
curiosity,  if  for  no  other  reason,  the 
building  should  be  kept  up.  The 
ascent  to  the  top  is  outside,  by  steps. 
At  the  top  is  a  platform  10  n.  9  io. 
round,  which  has  a  stone  placed  in  the 
centre.  This  stone  can  be  lifted  and 
access  obtained  to  the  interior.  It  is 
said  that  Jung  Bahadur  of  Nipal  rode 
a  pony  up  the  steps  outside  to  the  topi 

Patna  is  a  great  centre  for  the  Indigo 
Trade.  The  Bazaars  are  very  exten- 
sive and  well  worth  a  visit.  The 
Government  Opium  Factory  is  the 
largest  in  India. 

Bankipur  is  the  junction  for  the 
Tirhoot  State  Rly.,  N. ;  the  Bengal  and 
N.  W.  Rly.,  leading  to  Oudh  ;  and  the 
Patna  Gaya  Rly.  S. 

[Expedition  to  Gaya. 

57  m.  firom  Bankipur. 
This  journey  will  not  repay  the  ordin- 
ary traveller,  but  to  the  archaeologist  or 
the  student  of  Buddhism  it  will  be 
full  of  interest.     The  district  of  Gaya 
contains  many  places  of  great  sanctity. 
The  rocky  hills  which  here  run  out  far 
into  the  plains  of  the  Ganges  Valley 
I  toem  with  associations  of  the  religion  of 
1  Buddhism  many  of  which  have  been 


ROUTB  1.       EXPEDITION   TO   GAYA 


49 


diyerted  to  new  objects  by  modem 
saperstition.  The  Brahmans  stamped 
oat  the  Buddhist  faith,  but  they  have 
utilised  its  local  traditions  to  their  own 
profit.  At  the  present  day  the  chief 
pilgrims  to  the  temple  and  sacred  tree 
at  Baddh  Gaya  are  devout  Marathas, 
who  come  to  pray  for  the  souls  of  their 
ancestors  in  purgatory.  The  pilgrim, 
before  leaving  his  home,  must  first  walk 

;  five  times  round  his  native  village, 
calling  upon  the  souls  of  his  ancestors 
to  accompany  him  on  his  journey. 
Arrived  at  Gaya,  he  is  forthwith  placed 

!  in  charge  of  a  special  Brahman  guide. 
Gaya  is  a  city  of  80,000  inhab.     At 

1 1  m.  from  the  station  is  the  D.B.  and, 

I  a  short  way  to  the  W.  of  it,  the  Col- 
lector's office. 

About  100  yds.  N.  of  the  cemetery, 
3  m.  E.  of  tne  station,  is  a  Temple^ 
sacred  to  Mahadeo,  Ram,  Lakshman, 
Ganesh,  and  Hanuman,  built  by  Bani 
Indrajit,  of  Tikari,  at  a  very  consider- 
able cost.  Thence  to  the  temple  of 
Bishn  Fad,  in  Old  Gaya,  is  1^  m.  It  is 
difficult  to  approach  the  temple  except 
on  foot,  owing  to  the  extreme  narrow- 
ness of  the  streets.  Beyond  this  is  the 
Footstep  of  VvUmu,^  or  the  Bishn  Pad, 
which  is  13  in.  long  and  6  in.  broad. 
It  ia  of  silver,  and  is  enclosed  in  a 
vessel  of  siljrer  inserted  into  the  pave- 
ment, which hasa  diameter  of  4  ft.  Here 
flower  and  other  ofiferings  are  made. 

Buddh  Gaya  is  7  m.  S.  of  the  city. 
For  the  first  5  m.  tho  road  is  good,  but 
unshaded  by  trees.  Pass  the  prison, 
rt. ;  after  5  m.  turn  1.  and  go  for  2 
m.  along  a  country  road.  The  Temple 
of  Btiddh  Oaya  is  of  very  great  anti- 

'  qoity  (543  B.O.),  and  abounds  with 
traditions  of  the  life  of  Buddha.  It 
is  built  in  a  hollow,  which  diminishes 
Its  apparent  height.  It  is  also  shut  in 
by  small  houses.  The  figure  of  Buddha, 
according  to  Hionen  Thsang,  was  of 
periumed  paste,  and  was  destroyed  cen- 
turies ago.  Other  figures  of  plaster 
w«ie  sabsequently  made  and  also  de- 
stroyed. To  the  1.  is  the  place  where 
the  founder  of  the  present  College  of 
Mahants,  about  260  years  ago,  performed 
Tapagya,  that  is^  sat  surrounded  by 
fodrfireei  with  the  sun  overhead.  The 
Mhet  were,  preserved,  and  a  hollow 
[India] 


pillar,  with  a  diameter  of  H  ft.  and 
4  ft.  high,  rising  from  a  sq.  base  was 
built  over  them.  Nearly  in  line  with 
it  are  three  masonry  tombs  of  Mahants. 

It  is  known  that  Asoka  surrounded 
the  temple  with  a  stone  railing.  As 
much  of  this  railing  as  could  be  found 
has  been  restored  to  the  position  which 
it  is  supposed  to  have  occupied.  The 
railing  has  four  bars  of  stone,  sup- 
ported by  pillars  at  intervals  of  8  ft. 
The  top  rail  is  ornamented  with  carv- 
ings of  mermaidsL  or  females  with  the 
taus  of  fish,  inseUing  their  arms  into 
the  mouths  of  Makarahs,  that  is,  im- 
aginary crocodiles,  with  large  ears  like 
those  of  elephants,  and  long  hind  legs. 
Below  this  top  bar  are  three  others, 
also  of  stone,  ornamented  with  carv- 
ings of  lotus  flowers.  The  pillars  are 
adorned  with  carvingsof  various  groups, 
such  as  a  woman  and  child,  a  man,  with 
a  woman  who  has  the  head  of  a  horse, 
Centaurs,  and  so  on.  Mr.  Fergussou 
pronounced  this  to  be  * '  the  most  ancient 
sculptured  monument  in  India."  The 
plinth  of  the  temple  is  26^  ft.  high, 
and  at  the  top  of  it  is  a  clear  space  13 
ft.  broad,  which  allowed  a  passage  round 
the  tower,  and  also  gave  access  to  a 
chamber  in  it.  At  each  corner  of  the 
platform  by  which  the  passage  round 
the  tower  was  effected  was  a  small 
temple,  and  below,  outside  Asoka's 
rail,  were  many  subordinate  temples. 
Behind  the  temple,  on  a  raised  platform, 
is  the  sacred  Bo  tree  (a  pipul  or  Ficus 
religioaa)  under  which  Buddha  sat. 

Mr.  J.  0.  Oman  says :  "  If  it  were 
possible  to  ascertain  by  any  means  what 
particular  spot  on  earth  is  the  most 
sacred  in  the  opinion  of  mankind, 
there  is  every  reason  to  think  that  the 
majority  of  votes  would  be  given  in 
favour  of  Buddh  Gaya.  Defaced  by 
time  and  the  hand  of  man,  transformed 
a  good  deal  through  well-meant  restore^ 
tions,  the  celebrated  temple  at  Buddh 
Gaya,  even  in  its  modem  disguised 
condition,  with  its  19th-century  stucco 
about  it,  and  its  brand  new  gilt  finial. 
is  an  imposinff  structure,  about  170  ft. 
high  and  50  rk.  wide  at  its  base.  All 
tlungs  considered,  it  has  certainly  lasted 
remarkably  well,  the  material  of  which 
it  is  constraeted  being  only  vell-bnmi 


50 


ROUTE  1.      BOMBAT  TO  OALOUTTA 


India 


brick  cemented  with  mud.  Stone  has 
been  used  only  in  the  door  frames  and 
flooring.  The  building  is  plastered 
with  lime-mortar.  It  is  buift  in  the 
form  of  a  pyramid  of  nine  stories,  em- 
bellished on  the  outer  side  with  niches 
and  mouldings.  Facing  the  rising  sun 
is  the  entrance  doorway,  and  above  it, 
at  an  elevation  greater  than  the  roof  of 
the  porch  which  once  adorned  the 
temple,  there  is  a  triangular  opening 
to  admit  the  morning  glory  to  fall  upon 
the  image  in  the  sanctuary." 

A  Burmese  inscription  records  its 
restoration  in  1306-1809.  Again  in 
1877  permission  was  granted  them  to 
restore  the  temple,  but  Rajendralala 
Mitra,  deputed  by  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Bengal  to  inspect  theur 
work,  states  that  *'the  Burmese  carried 
on  demolitions  and  excavations  which 
in  a  manner  swept  away  most  of  the 
old  landmarks."  The  remains  of  the 
vaulted  gateway  in  front  of  the  temple 
were  completely  demolished,  and  uie 
place  cleared  out  and  levelled.  The 
stone  pavilion  over  the  Buddha  Pad 
was  dismantled,  and  its  materials  cast 
aside  on  a  rubbish  mound  at  a  distance. 
The  granite  plinth  beside  it  was  re- 
moved. The  drain-pipe  and  gargoyle 
which  marked  the  level  of  the  granite 
pavement  were  destroyed.  The  founda- 
tions of  the  old  buildings  noticed  by 
HiouenThsang  were  excavatedfor  bricks 
and  filled  with  rubbish.  The  revetment 
wall  round  the  sacred  tree  had  been 
rebuilt  on  a  different  foundation  on  the 
W.  The  plaster  ornaments  on  the 
interior  feeing  of  the  sanctuary  were 
knocked  off,  and  the  facing  was  covered 
with  plain  stucco,  and  an  area  of  213 
ft.  to  250  ft.  was  levelled  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  new  wall  For  further 
description  of  the  temple,  refer  to  Raj- 
endralalaMitra's  Bvddh  Qaya^  Calcutta, 
1878;  and  Cunningham's  Arch,  Surv. 
vol.  iii  ;  and  Sir  Edwin  Arnold's  most 
delightful  chapter  in  India  BevisUed, 
1886,  "  The  Land  of  the  Light  of  Asia." 

To  the  N.W.  is  a  smsdl  but  very 
ancient  temple,  in  which  is  a  figure  of 
Buddha  standing.  The  doorway  is 
finely  carved.] 

1118  m.  Mokam^h June.  sta.  (R.)  Line 


to  the  N.  joining  the  Tirhoot  State 
Railway.  To  the  E.  the  loon  line  of 
the  East  Indian  Railway,  whicn  follows 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  rejoins  the 
direct  route  at  Khana  June,  near  Buid- 
wan. 

262  m.  Lnckeeserai  junc  sta. 
[Here  a  loop  line  of  the  E.  I.  Ely. 
branches  £.  along  the  banks  of  the 
Ganges  via  Jamalpnr,  Sahebgonge, 
and  Tinpahar  to  Khana  (see  below), 
where  it  rejoins  the  main  Ime.] 

1217  m.  Uadhnpor  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
of  the  Giridih  line. 

[Excursion  to  Parasnath 

Parasnath  Mountain. — From  Mad- 
hupur  sta.  to  Giridih  sta.  24  m.  by 
rail,  from  the  latter  place  to  the  foot 
of  mountain  18  m.  by  good  road. 
Bearers  at  Madhuband  for  the 
ascent  (2|  hrs.)  The  sportsman  and 
the  lover  of  mountain  scenery  will 
enjoy  a  visit  to  this  far-famed  mountain 
and  place  of  pilgrimage.  The  nume^ 
ous  temples,  though  most  picturesque, 
are  of  no  great  antiquity.  It  is  4488 
ft.  above  sea-level,  and  is  the  Eastern 
metropolis  of  Jain  worship.  According 
to  tradition,  Parasnath,  who  was  the 
23d  Tirthai^ar  of  the  .Tains,  was  bom 
at  Benares,  lived  300  years,  and  was 
buried  on  this  mountain. 

Madhuband,  1230  ft.,  where  this 
bearers  are  procured,  is  at  the  N.  side 
of  the  mountain.  Here  is  a  Jain  con- 
vent on  a  tableland.  In  a  clearance  of 
the  forest,  "the  appearance  of  the 
snow-white  domes  and  bannerets  of  its 
temple,  through  the  fine  trees  by  which 
it  is  surrounded,  is  very  beautifiil." 
The  ascent  of  the  mountain  is  up  a 
pathway  worn  by  the  feet  of  innumer- 
able pilgrims  frx)m  all  parts  of  India. 
10,000  still  visit  the  place  annually. 
The  path  leads  through  woods  with 
large  dumps  of  bamboo  over  slaty  rocks 
of  gneiss,  much  inclined  and  sloping 
away  from  the  mountain.  The  view 
from  a  ridge  500  ft.  above  the  village 
is  superb.  Ascending  higher,  the  paSi 
traverses  a  thick  forest  ot  s<U  ( VatmOx 
or  Shorea,  rdlmgta)^  and  other  treea 
spanned  with  cables  of  Baohinia  sterna 


BOUTB  1.      EZOUBSION  TO  PARASNATH 


51 


At  8000  ft.  the  vegetation  becomes 
more  luxuriant^  and  the  conical  hills 
of  the  white  ants  disaj^pear.  At  3500 
ft  the  vegetation  again  changes,  the 
trees  becoming  gnarled  and  scattered. 
The  traveller  emerges  from  the  forest 
at  the  foot  of  a  ^eat  rid^e  of  rocky 
peaks,  stretching  E.  and  W.  for  3  or  4 
m.  The  saddle  of  the  crest  (4230  ft.) 
is  marked  by  a  small  temple,  one  of 
many  which  occupy  various  promi- 
nences of  the  ridge.  The  view  is  beauti- 
M.  To  the  N.  are  ranges  of  low  wooded 
hills,  and  the  Barakah  and  Aji  rivers. 
To  the  S.  is  a  flatter  country,  with 
lower  ranges  and  the  Damodar  river. 
The  situation  of  the  principal  temple 
is  very  fine,  below  the  saddle  in  a  hollow 
&cing  the  S.,  surrounded  by  groves  of 
plantain  and  Ficus  indica.  It  contains 
Uttle  but  the  sculptured  feet  of  Paras- 
nath  and  some  marble  cross-legged 
figures  of  Buddha,  with  crisp  hair,  and 
the  Brahmanical  Cord.  TBears  are 
numerous  round  this  spot.  A  conval- 
escent depot  for  European  soldiers  was 
established  in  1858,  but  was  abandoned, 
and  the  officers'  quarters  are  now 
utilised  as  D.B.] 

1262  m.  Sitarampur  junc.  sta.  for 
Barakar,-  5  m. 

1268  m.  Asensol  junc.  sta.  of  the 
Ben^  and  Nagpur  Railway  (see 
Bte.  3). 

1279  m.  Banignuj  sta.,  3^  on  the  E. 


edge  of  the  very  extensive  coal-fields  of 
Bengal,  which  stretch  out  384  m.  to  the 
W.,  and  extend  under  the  bed  of  the 
Damodar.  The  place  was  formerly  the 
property  of  the  Raja  of  Burdwan,  hence 
the  name.  More  than  30  species  of 
fossil  plants,  chiefly  ferns,  have  been 
found  in  the  coal,  of  similar  species  to 
those  in  the  Yorkshire  and  Australian 
coal.  The  mines  afford  regular  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  men  and 
women,  chiefly  of  the  Beauri  tribe.  A 
vast  number  of  boatmen  on  the  Damo- 
dar river  are  employed  in  carrying  coal 
to  Calcutta.  The  coal  is  piled  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  can  be  carried 
down  only  while  the  Damodar  is  in 
flood.  The  mines  are  said  to  have  beer 
accidentally  discovered  in  1820  by  Mr 
Jones,  the  architect  of  Bishop's  College 
at  Calcutta.  The  hills  of  Chatna. 
Bihari  Nath,  and  Pachete  look  weU 
from  Ranigunj. 

1325  m.  Ehana  junc.  sta.  for  the 
loop  line  (see  p.  264). 

1334  m.  Burdwan  sta.  (R.) 

1376  m.  Hooghly  junc.  sta.  for  the 
Eastern  Bengal  Railway  by  the  fine 
Bridge  over  the  Hooghly  {Hugli)  river^ 

1379  m.  Chandemagore  and  Seram- 
pore  stations  (see  Excursion  from 
Calcutta,  p.  64). 

1400  m.  Calcutta,  Howrah  ter- 
minus (see  next  page). 


ftS 


OILOUTTA  Om 


Mm 


CALCUTTA  CITYjOe 


I 


CONTENTS. 


PAOS 

Arsenal     .......  68 

Asiatic  Society         .        .        .        .        .57 

Belvedere  (Lt.-Qovernor'B  Palace)  .       .  60 

Bishop's  College 59 

Braluna  Somt^ 60 

Calcutta  Uniyersity  Senate  House         .  56 
Gathedrals— 

St.  Paul's 68 

Roman  Catholic 60 

Churches — 

Armenian      ......  60 

Greek 60 

Old  Mission 59 

St.  Andrew's  or  Scotch  Kirk       .       .  60 

St  John's  (Old  Cathedral)   ...  {^9 

St.  Thomas's  Roman  Catholic     .        .  60 
Clubs  (see  Index  and  Directory). 

Custom  House 54 

Dalhonsie  Institute 57 

Engineering  (Civil)  College     ...  62 
Esplanade,  or  Maidan      ....  54 
Forts- 
William 57 

Old  Port 58 

Garden  Reach 60 


Gardens- 
Botanical      .... 
Eden     .       .  .       . 

Government  House  . 

HlghCourt       .... 

Hospitals 

Hotels  (see  Index  and  Directory). 

Legislative  Council  Office 

Maidan  or  Esplanade 

Metcalfe  HaU i 

Military  Prison 

Mint 

Missions 

Mosque  of  Prince  Ghulam  Miihamma4 

Museums— Economical  . 
Indian 

Palaces— King  of  Oudh's . 
Lt -Governor's (Belvedere)  .       •   fl/fi 

PostOfflce        .... 

Public  Buildings      . 

Race-course J^lf/ 

Secretariat       .... 

Statues     

Telegrwh  Office 

Town  Hall        .        .       .       . 


The  Approach  from  the  Sea,  Hooghly 
Ewer,  and  Landing-place  at  Galcuita. 
—At  Pilot's  Ridge  during  the  S.W. 
monsoon,  that  is  from  the  15th  of 
March  till  the  16th  of  September,  there 
is  a  floating  Light -vessel,  which  is  a 
guide  to  vessels  making  the  Hooghly 
Pilot  Station.  At  this  point  the 
traveller  enters  its  waters.  The  Cal- 
cutta Pilots  are  better  paid,  better 
educated,  and  occupy  a  higher  position 
than  others  of  their  profession.  The 
Hooghly  is  a  most  dangerous  and  diffi- 
cult river  to  navigate.  There  is  in  the 
first  place  the  dread  of  cyclones,  which 
may  take  place  in  any  month  except 
February,  when  they  are  unknown. 
The  worst  months  are  May  and  Octo- 
ber. In  some  of  these  cyclones  a  storm 
wave  has  covered  the  adjacent  shores, 
and  many  thousands  of  persons  have 
perished.  The  cyclone  of  1874  covered 
Saugar  Island  with  water.  But  in 
addition  to  the  possible  danger  of 
storms,  there  is  the  normal  one  of 
shoals  and  tides.  New  shoals  are  con- 
tinually forming,  and  nothing  but  a 


daily  experience  of  the  river  < 
a  pilot  to   take  a  vessel 
There  is,  for  instance,  the  mosi 
0U8  shoal  called  the  **  James  s 
The  real  origin  of  the  name  ( 
the  wreck  of  a  vessel  called 
Ja/mes  and  Mary  on  that  banls 
It  appears  first  under  this 
chart  dated  1711.      Upon  th 
many  other  wrecks  have  takj 
The  Hooghly  cannot  be  nav* 
night,  nor  until  the  tide  mak 
be  ascended.     It  is  usual,  theT( 
anchor  near  Saugar  Island 
casioh  serves. 

Saugar  Island.— A  gathering 
100,000  to  200,000  pilgrims  £ 
parts  of  India,  but  principall]) 
the  Bengal  districts,  takes  placel 
early  part  of  January,  the  date  i 

Ct  Bathing  Festival  of  Bengal  J 
ling  ceremony  as  a  rule 
three  days,  though  the  &ir  lasts] 
couple  of  days  longer.  .  The  site  r_ 
fair  is  a  sandbank  on  the  S.  shof 
the  islandi  facing  the  surfi  Just  to  ^ 


J  "•"  "•"*•  I  one  of  the  Ghats  Ae  fee  is  2annaBfor 
t  from  CUonttik  |  each  person,  and  4  annas  for  luggage. 


«»»*»' 


v%^ 


forming, 


;,  iud  .iotbing  but  •!  the  UUad,  facing  "«  ««"'  •''■- 


to  lb 


THI  APPROAOR  TO  OAZiOXTTTA 


58 


•  of  the  jtmctioii  of  Pagoda  Creek 
|&  the  bay.  An  offering  is  made  to 
H  sea  of  cocoa-nnts,  frnit^  or  flowers, 
m  especiaUy  of  fire  gems — a  pearl, 
tmond,  an  emerald,  a  topaz,  and  a 
iKce  of  coral  worth  a  mpee  or  two. 
prmerly  children  used  to  be  cast  into 
le  sea.  After  bathing,  the  pilgrims 
I  to  the  spot  where  the  Pholu  emblem 
f  Eapila  Muni  is  set  np. 
Sport  is  abundant  Deer,  wild  boar, 
ftd  a  great  varielr  of  sea-birds  are 
land  throughout  the  year. 
Tigers  are  to  be  met  with  in  the 
ttgle.  The  best  way  to  get  about  is 
i  a  boat,  sportsmen  landing  when 
ley  so  desire  for  shooting,  and  return- 
g  at  night.  In  this  way  good  sport 
ly  he  had  ;  but  without  previous  ex- 
irience  too  much  must  not  be  expected. 
The  Lighthouse,  of  iron,  76  ft.  high, 
18  commenced  in  1808.  It  is  at 
Sddleton  Point,  at  the  S.W.  end  of 
w  island,  570  yds.  from  low -water 
irk. 
(The  mouth  of  the  Hooghly  is  about 
lo  m.  from  Calcutta. 

At  40  nut  is  the  town  of  Kalpi,  D.B., 
n  the  rt  ^ing  up  stream. 

It  contains  a  large  market-place  for 
be  sale  of  rice  grown  in  the  interior, 
nd  there  is  a  road  from  it  to  Calcutta. 

At  30  m.,t  as  the  crow  flies,  is  Dia- 
Hond  Harbour,  marked  by  a  large 
lumber  of  trees,  where  the  E.  I.  Com- 
^y's  ships  used  to  auchor.  There  is 
i  Custom  House  here,  and  the  officers 
ward  shiDS  proceeding  ujp  the  river, 
illy,  to  Calcutta,  3  or  4  trains  daily,  in 
Uto  4  hrs.  At  28  m.t  is  the  Ru^arayan 
dyer,  which  flows  into  the  Hooghly 
mtheL 

20  m.t  Tamhik  is  passed  L  (pop. 
BOOO).  A  very  famous  city  in  ancient 
times,  and  a  maritime  port  of  the 
Baddhists,  where  the  Chinese  pilgrim 
ft  Hian  embarked  for  Ceylon  in  the 
beginning  of  the  5th  cent  a.d.  Hiouen 
Ihsang  250  years  later  speaks  of  it  as 
th  important  Buddhist  harbour.  It 
ii  now  a  long  way  from  the  ocean,  but 
iMched  by  the  tide.  There  is  a  Temple 
j  hstt  known  in  the  locality  by  the  name 
t  From  CUonttik 


of  Darffah  Bhama  or  Bhenna.  It  was 
ori^ally  a  Buddhist  temple.  The 
shnne  is  surrounded  by  a  cunous  triple 
walL  The  foundation  of  the  place  con- 
sists of  large  logs  covered  with  bricks 
and  stones  to  a  height  of  30  ft  covering 
the  whole  area. 

The  Damodar  river  enters  the 
Hooghly  District  from  Bnrdwan,  and 
flows  past  the  viUages  of  Ampta  £.  and 
Baghnan  W.  to  Mahishrakha  Ghat, 
where  it  is  crossed  by  the  IJlubaria 
Midnapur  Canal,  and  flows  into  the 
Hooghly  opposite  Fulta.  It  is  navi- 
gable as  far  as  Ampta,  which  is  26  m. 
from  its  mouth,  by  boats  of  from  10  to 
20  tons.  By  this  river  Jarge  quantities 
of  coal  are  brought  from  the  Kanigu^j 
mines. 

Fnlta  is  a  large  village  just  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Damodar.  It  is  the  site 
of  a  Dutch  fadx)ry,  and  is  the  place  to 
which  the  English  ships  sailed  on  the 
capture  of  Calcutta  by  Sirajudaulah. 

At  15  m.  S.t  Ulubaria,  a  small  town 
on  the  1.  of  the  Hooghly,  is  passed. 
Here  the  main  road  frDm  Calcutta  to 
the  temple  of  Jagannath  at  Puri  crosses 
the  Hooghly,  and  here  begins  the  Mid- 
napur High-Level  Canal.  A  fewm.  N. 
of  this  on  the  rt.  are  the  extensive  Akra 
brick-fields  belonging  to  Government. 

At  7  m.t  the  first  view  of  the  city 
is  obtained,  and  then  Gtoden  Beach 
is  passed  rt ;  the  Botanical  Gardens 
and  Bishop's  (now  Civil  Engineering) 
College  on  the  1.  The  river  is  now 
crowded  with  shine  at  anchor,  many 
rows  deep,  all  the  way  up  to  the 
Landinff-place.  The  view  is  very  strik- 
ing, and  the  forest  of  masts,  the  plain 
of  the  Esplanade,  the  Fort  and  the 
fine  buildings  in  the  background,  all 
give  the  idea  of  a  great  commercial 
capital. 


Arrival  at  CALCUTTA.  ^ 

Every  vessel  that  arrives  at  Calcutta 
must  be  berthed  by  the  Harbour-master 
either  in  the  new  Docks  or  at  the 
jetties.  For  landing  from  the  stream  at 
one  of  the  Ghats  the  fee  is  2  annas  for 
each  person,  and  4  annas  for  luggage. 


54 


OAX^nTTTA  OITT 


JfuKa 


FdBMp'f  OthtA,  nowtome  distance  in- 
land since  the  reclamation  of  the  fore- 
shore by  the  excavation  of  thenewdocks, 
is  marked  bv  a  pavilion  of  stone,  sup- 
ported by  pillars,  and  inscribed  "  James 
Prinsep."  The  passenger  musttakewith 
him  a  pass  from  the  Custom -House 
officer,  without  which  he  may  not  put  his 
luggage  into  a  carriage.  From  the  jett^ 
to  ue  street  is  about  100  yds.,  through 
the  enclosure  of  the  Custom  House. 

The  Popalation  of  the  city  and 
suburbs  was  840,000  in  1891. 

The  Esplanade,  or  Maidan  (plain),  is 
a  magnificent  open  space  of  about  1^  m. 
diameter. 

Oehterlony  MomimeTU. — Not  far  from 
Government  House,  in  the  centre  of 
the  Esplanade,  is  a  eolumvn  165  ft.  hi^h 
to  Sir  Damd  Oekterlanyf  Besident  in 
Malwa  and  Rajputana  in  1823.  It  has 
two  galleries  at  top,  from  which  a  fine 
view  over  Calcutta  is  obtained.  W.  of 
it  are  several  statues. 

Statues, — First  comes  the  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Xorcf^an^in^tf.  He 
is  bareheaded,  with  his  sheathed  sword 
by  his  side.  It  is  a  good  likeness,  and 
well  executed.  W.  of  this  statue  is 
that  of  Lord  LatorenMj  standing  bare- 
headed. To  the  £.  of  Lord  Haroinge's 
statue  is  an  equestrian  bronze  statue  of 
Ewrl  of  Mayo.  On  the  Chowringhee 
Road  side  is  the  equestrian  statue  of 
Svr  James  Outramt  by  Foley,  R.A.  He 
is  represented  bareheaded,  with  a  drawn 
sword  in  his  right  hand.  His  horse  is 
violently  reined  in.  Beneath  is  an  in- 
scription. There  are  statues  of  Lord 
Dufferin  and  Lord  Roberts  on  either 
side  of  "the  red  road"  now  used  for 
the  evening  drive. 

At  the  N.W.  comer  of  the  Esplanade, 
lining  the  Strand,  are  the  Eden 
Ckurdens,  for  which  Calcutta  is  indebted 
to  the  Misses  Eden,  Lord  Auckland's 
sisters  ;  here  a  band  plays  every  even- 
ing. On  the  S.  side  is  a  fine  marble 
statue  to  Captain  Sir  William  Feel, 
of  H.M.S.  Shannon,  Commander  of  the 
Naval  Brigade  in  the  Indian  Mutiny. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Gardens  is  the 
statue  of  Lord  Auckla/nd, 

Standing  picturesquely  by  the  water- 
side is  a  Burmese  Pa^i^oda,  brought  from 
Prome  and  set  up  in  1856.     Close  tp 


the  Gardens  is  the  Ground  of  the  Cal- 
cutta Cricket  Club.  There  is  a  good 
drive  along  the  river  side  from  the 
Gardens  past  Fort- William  to  Bel?e- 
dere,  the  Lieut. -Governor's  resideooe, 
and  another  E.  from  the  Gardens  to 
Government  House.  There  is  also  a 
drive  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Esplanade 
to  the  Cathedral  and  Chowringhee. 

A  little  to  the  N.  is  Babu  Ghat, 
named  from  Raj  Chandra  Das,  who 
constructed  it  There  is  a  handsome 
colonnade  with  Doric  pillars. 

Goveniment  Houm  stands  in  a 
garden  of  6  acres.  Begun  1799  by  com- 
mand of  Lord  Wellesley  (arch.  Captain 
Wyatt).  The  design  is  copied  from 
that  of  Kedlestone  Hall,  Derbyshire, 
built  by  Adam,  and  consists  of  a  central 
buildinff  with  four  wings  connected 
with  tne  centre  by  gaUeries.  The 
building  stands  N.  and  S.,  and  the 
grand  entrance  faces  the  N.  To  the 
rt  on  entering,  beneath  the  porch,  is 
a  finely-executed  white  marble  statue 
of  the  Marquis  Wellesley.    Close  by  are 

S»rtrait8  of  Lords  Canning,  1856-62, 
astings,  1818-23,  and  Mayo,  1869-72. 

The  Vinviig^oom  is  of  white  (^unam 
with  a  floor  of  veined  white  marble. 
On  either  side  are  six  well -executed 
marble  busts  of  the  Caesars,  taken  from  a 
French  ship  during  the  war.  The 
TJh/rone-room  is  so-called  from  its  con- 
taining the  throne  of  Tipu.  The  pic- 
tures are,  the  Queen  seated,  by  Sir  George 
Hayter,  a  most  indifferent  picture ; 
Queen  Charlotte,  standing;  next  George 
III., — both  supposed  to  be  by  Hudson, 
the  master  of  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds.  Next 
is  General  the  Hon.  Arthur  Wellesley, 
1803,  by  Home,  R.A.,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  collection,  and  extremely  inter- 
esting. On  the  way  to  the  breakfast- 
room,  pass  E.  through  a  curved  passage 
to  the  Cotrndl-roorn,  In  this  passage 
are  three  full-length  portraits — Lord 
Teignmouth,  1793-98,  The  Earl  of 
EUenborough,  1842-44,  and  Lord 
Metcalfe,  1835-39,  the  well-known 
likeness  by  Hayes. 

At  the  end  of  the  passage  is  the 
OouncfU-room.  The  pictures  are  as 
follows :  The  Earl  of  Minto,  1807-13  ; 
Sir  Eyre  Coote  (over  the  centre  door) ; 
Marquis    Comwallis,    1 786  -  98  - 1805  \ 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS 


55 


Lord  Hardinge,   1844^48,  a  i-lengtli 

gortrait,  in  blue  undress,  wearing  a 
tar;  Warren  Hastings,  1772-86, 
with  a  motto,  "Mens  sequa  in  arduis," 
at  the  top, — a  fine  picture.  Over  the 
2d  door  rt.  is  The  Earl  of  Elgin  and 
Kincardine,  1862-63,  a  {-length.  Over 
the  window.  The  Earl  of  Auckland, 
1836-42,  a  ^-length.  Mr.  John  Adam, 
1823,  a  fine  picture  by  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence.  Marquis  Wellesley,  1798- 
1806,  in  peer's  robes.  Over  a  window 
Lord  Clive,  {-length,  wearing  Riband 
of  the  Bath,  by  Nathaniel  Dance. 

There  are  also  pictures  of  Louis  XY. 
and  his  Queen,  perhaps  by  Be  la  Roche  ; 
of  Lady  William  Bentinck,  by  Beechy  ; 
of  the  Nawab  S*aadat  'Ali  Khan,  by 
Chinnery  ;  the  Shah  of  Persia,  1798  ; 
Jaswant  Sing,  Maharajah  of  Bhurtpur, 
by  Anger ;  and  the  Amir  of  Kabul,  by 
W.  M.  White. 

Aboye  the  dining-room  and  the  ad- 
joining rooms  is  a  splendid  ballroom. 
The  floor  is  of  polished  teak,  and  the 
ceilings  are  beautifully  panelled,  after 
designs  by  Mr.  H.  M.  Locke.  The 
chandeliers  are  said  to  have  been  cap- 
tured with  the  busts  of  the  Caesars  and 
the  portrait  of  Louis  XV.  from  the 
French.  It  is  believed  that  they  were 
all  taken  from  the  same  ship^  and  were 
a  present  from  the  French  King  destined 
for  the  Nizam  of  Hyderabad.  In  the 
S.  anteroom  is  another  picture  of  the 
Marquis  Wellesley.  On  a  table  are  the 
subsidiary  treaty  of  Hyderabad,  1798, 
the  partition  treaty  of  Mysore,  1799, 
and  subsidiary  treaty  of  Seringapatam, 
1799. 

The  extensive  grounds  are  well  kept. 
40  yds.  from  the  verandah  on  the 
ground-floor  is  a  fine  brass  32-pounder, 
taken  at  Aliwal,  and  inscribed  in  Gur- 
mukhi.  On  either  side  is  a  6-pounder 
brass  tig|er-^n,  taken  from  Tipu.  On 
the  N.  side  is  a  large  brass  gun,  which 
is  inscribed  **  Miani,  17th  February," 
and  also  "  Hyderabad,  30th  of  March 
1843.'*  On  the  N.  side  is  another,  with 
a  carriage  representing  a  dragon.  There 
is  also  a  small  brass  gun  to  the  N.W., 
curious  on  account  of  its  extreme  aee. 

The  Town  Hall.— This  fine  building 
stands  W.  of  Government  House.  It  was 
built  by  the  inhabitants  of  Calcutta  in 


1804,  and  cost  j£70,000.  The  style  is 
Doric,  with  a  fine  flight  of  steps  lead- 
ing to  a  portico  on  the  S.  The  car- 
riage entrance  is  to  the  N.  under  a 
portico.  The  centre  of  the  building 
is  occupied  by  a. saloon  162  ft.  long, 
and  66  ft  broad.  In  the  S.  front  is  a 
central  room  82  ft  long,  by  30  ft  broad, 
and  two  smaller  rooms.  In  the  S.  vesti- 
bule is  a  marble  statue  of  Warren 
Hastings,  by  R.  Westmacott,  R.A. 
He  stands  between  a  Mohammedan  and 
a  Hindu.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  lower 
saloon  is  a  marble  statue  by  J.  Bacon, 
junr.,  of  the  Marquis  of  Comwallis. 
This  statue  was  erected  by  the  British 
inhabitants  of  Bengal,  1803  a.d.  In 
the  vestibules  are  busts  of  C.  B.  Green- 
law, Esq.,  and  John  Palmer,  Esq.,  and 
portraits  of  Lord  Lake,  Lord  Gough, 
Sir  C.  Metcalfe,  Sir  H.  Durand,  Dwar- 
kanath  Thakur,  Bishop  Wilson,  Mr. 
Cameron,  Mr.  Wilberforce  Bird,  Sir 
Henry  Norman,  and  other  distinguished 
men.  There  are  also  fall-length  por- 
traits of  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert, 
presented  by  Her  Majesty  to  the  city 
of  Calcutta. 

Opposite  the  Hall,  about  60  yds.  off, 
is  a  bronze  statue  of  Lord  William 
Bentinck,  with  an  inscription  by  .Lord 
Macaulay,  and  close  by  is  a  statute  oi 
Sir  Stuart  Bay  ley,  a  former  Lieutenant 
Governor. 

The  Legislative  Council  Office  is 
close  by  to  the  N.W.  The  S.  front  is 
adorned  with  Corinthian  columns. 

The  High  Ck>urt  is  after  the  model 
of  the  town  hall  at  Ypres.  The  Chief 
Justice's  Court  is  in  the  S.W.  corner. 
The  Court  of  First  Instance  is  at  the 
S.E.  comer.  In  the  E.  face  is  the 
Barristers*  Library,  The  Attorneys' 
Library  is  in  the  E.  comer ;  and  here 
is  a  portrait  of  Justice  Norman.  In 
the  Court  of  First  Instance,  which  is 
also  used  as  a  Criminal  Court  when 
required,  are  portraits  of  Sir  Wm.  Bur- 
roughs, by  Lawrence,  1818  ;  Sir  Fred. 
Workman  M*Naghten,  by  Chinnery, 
1824  ;  and  Sir  Elijah  Impey,  Knt.,  by 
Kettle,  1778.  The  next  room  contains 
a  picture  of  Shambu  Nath  Pandit,  the 
first  Indian  Judge,  a  native  of  Cashmere. 
In  the  Chief  Justice's  Court  are  3  pic- 
tures—Sir E.  Impey,  by  Zoffany,  1782, 


M 


OAS/juTSA  ont 


IfidM 


in  red  robes,  standing ;  Sir  H.  Russell, 
by  Cbinnery,  1872,  robed  in  red  ;  and 
Sir  John  Anstnither,  1805.  In  the 
centre  of  the  £.  side  is  a  statue  of  Sir 
Edward  Hyde  East,  1821.  In  the 
Jud^'  Library  are  six  pictures  — 
Justice  Treror,  H.  B.  Harington,  and 
Sir  John  Oolvin,  who  died  at  Agra. 
Opposite  are  Sir  Ed.  B3ran,  Sir  Robert 
Chambers,  and  Sir  liawrence  Peel. 
There  is  a  garden  in  the  centre  quad- 
rangle, and  a  fountain. 

The  Seeretariat.— This  noble  build- 
ing stands  on  the  K.  side  of  Dalhousie 
Square,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Old  Writers*  Buildings,  where  so  many 
illustrious  Indian  statesmen  com- 
menced their  public  career. 

Calcntta  University  donate  House. 

— On  the  N.W.  of  College  Square  are 
Presidency  College,  Hare  School,  and 
the  Calcutta  University.  The  Uni- 
versity Senate  House  is  a  grand  hall 
120  ft.  X  60  ft.,  in  which  the  Convoca- 
tions for  conferring  degrees  take  place. 
It  has  a  porticd,  supported  by  6  lofty 
pillars.  Close  by  is  the  Hare  Ckshool, 
which  is  self-supportine, — ^itwas  erected 
out  of  the  surplus  fees  of  students. 
The  Hindu  College  was  founded  in 
1824,  and  opened  in  X827.  The  total 
cost  was  170,000  rs.  In  the  year  1855 
it  was  merged  in  the  Presidency  College. 
The  foundation  stone  of  the  new  build- 
ing of  this  College  was  laid  in  1872  by 
Sir  George  Campbell. 

The  Indian  Mnseum,^  27  Chow- 
ringhee  Road,  is  an  immense  building, 
and  contains  a  very  fine  collection  of 
Fossils  and  Minerals,  a  Geological 
Gallery  with  rich  specimens,  and  a 
Library ;  but  the  most  important 
feature  is  the  Gallery  of  ArUiquUies^ 
well  worth  inspection,  particularly  the 
Buddhist  remains  brought  from  the 
tope  at  Bharhut  (see  Fergusson's  Bist. 
of  Arch,) ;  also  those  from  Muttra  and 
Gandhara  (Panjab),  etc.  Some  displav 
exquisite  feeling,  and  are  executed  with 
a  vigour  and  grace  worthy  of  the 
Greeks.  The  composition  of  the  figures 
and  the  representations  of  the  drapery 
are  very  remarkable. 

1  There  is  an  excellent  catalogue. 


Amongst  other  fine  objects  from 
Muttra  notice  MB,  a  figure  of  Buddha, 
6  ft.  high,  with  a  halo  behind  the  head, 
carved  with  floral  devices.  In  the 
Gkmdhara  Collection  notice  amongst 
many  others  O 81  a  tog,  7  seated  win^ 
male  human  figures;  0  96,  a  portion 
of  a  frieze  representing  6  naked  boys, 
quite  classic  in  design ;  6^i(75,adomestie 
scene,  suggesting  the  Stable  at  Beth- 
lehem. 

The  archaeologist  will  find  here 
selected  pieces  from  the  most  famous 
ancient  buildings  in  India.  There  are 
interesting  fragments  of  Buddhist  art 
from  the  caves  of  Orissa,  from  Sanchi, 
and  Buddh  Gaya,  from  Muttra,  and 
Sarnath,  near  Benares,  and  great  num- 
bers of  other  sculptures. 

Amongst  the  Siwalik  Fossil  Remains, 
observe  the  Hy»narctosor  Hysena-Bear ; 
the  Amphicyon,  a  dog-like  animal  as 
large  as  the  Polar  bear ;  the  Machairodus 
or  Sabre-tooth  tiger,  whose  canine  teeth 
were  7  in.  long ;  also  the  Siwalik 
cat,  which  was  at  least  as  large  as  a 
tiger, — ^it  is  distinguished  by  a  ridge 
running  along  the  upper  i)art  of  the 
skull.  Amongst  the  American  Eden- 
tata remark  the  Megalonvx,  long-nailed 
animal,  and  the  Glyptodon,  a  gigantic 
armadillo,  whose  armour  was  afl  of  one 
piece,  so  tiiat  it  could  not  roll  itself  up. 
There  is  the  skeleton  of  a  Megatherium 
brought  from  America,  and  one  of  an 
elephant  11  ft  high  ;  also  of  Hodson's 
antelope,  whose  two  horns  seen  in  a  line 
were  thought  to  belong  to  a  unicorn. 
Amongst  Siwalik  birds  there  are  the 
shank-bone  and  the  breast-bone  of  a 
wading-bird  as  big  as  an  ostrich.  This 
bird  has  been  called  the  Megaloscelornis, 
and  these  bones  are  the  only  ones 
belonging  to  this  species  existing  in 
the  world.  In  the  Upper  Palaeonto- 
logical  Gallery  there  are  many  bones 
of  the  Dinomis.  Amongst  the  reptiles, 
remark  a  Ma^ar  or  crocodile,  fix)m 
Matlah,  18  ft  long,  and  a  snake  of  the 
Python  species,  also  of  that  length. 
There  are  the  jaws  of  the  Bal«noptera 
indica,  which  must  have  belonged  to  a 
fish  between  80  ft  and  90  ft.  long. 
Observe  also  the  remains  of  the  Croco- 
dilus  crassidens,  an  extinct  species  of 
enormous  dimensions.     There  ib  also 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS 


67 


aspecimeii  of  the  Siwalik  Colossochelys, 
a  gigantic  tortoise  of  prodigious  size. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  whereas  all  the 
species  and  many  of  the  ^nera  of  the 
Siwalik  Mammals  and  Birds  are  entirely 
different  from  those  inhabiting  the 
earth,  all  the  genera  of  the  Reptiles 
have  living  representatives  in  India. 
The  Collection  of  the  Fossil  Vertebrata 
of  the  Siwaliks  is  the  most  complete 
and  comprehensive  in  the  world. 

As  to  Minerals,  it  may  be  said  that 
most  of  the  diamonds  exhibited  are 
Indian,  from  Bundelknnd,  S.  India, 
and  Sambalpnr.  There  are  also  models 
of  the  most  celebrated  diamonds,  snob 
as  the  Regent,  the  most  perfect  brilliant 
in  existence,  the  Koh-i-Nor,  the  Great 
Nizam,  etc.,  all  of  which  were  obtained 
in  India.  Amongst  the  Meteorites, 
remark  the  model,  No.  16,  of  one  which 
fell  on  the  23d  of  January  1870,  at 
Nedagolla,  6  m.  S.  of  Parbatipur,  in 
the  Madras  Presidency.  The  original 
weighed  over  10  lbs.  There  is  a 
portion  of  the  original  weighing  7  oz. 
260*8  gr.,  numbered  90,  in  the  collection. 
It  is  the  only  Indian  meteoric  iron  here. 

The  Economical  HnBenm.— Those 
who  desire  to  study  the  products  of 
the  country  and  see  the  finest  samples 
of  native  manufactures,  should  visit 
this  section  of  the  Museum.  It  occu- 
pies a  quadrangular  building  on  the 
Ghowringhee  Road  facing  the  Maidan. 
It  was  here  tiiat  the  Calcutta  Inter- 
national Exhibition  of  1883-84  was 
held. 

The  Mint  is  at  the  W.  end  of  Nim- 
tolla  Street;  built  1824-30  (archit. 
Major  W.  N.  Forbes).  The  style  is 
Doric,  the  central  portico  being  a  copy 
in  half  size  of  the  Temple  of  Minerva 
at  Athens.  The  area  of  the  building 
and  grounds  is  18^  acres. 

The  Dalhonsie  Institute  stands  on 
the  S.  side  of  Dalhousie  Square,  and 
was  built  "to  contain  within  its  walls 
statues  and  busts  of  great  men."  The 
foundation-stone  was  laid  in  1865,  but 
the  entrance  portico  preceded  it,  having 
heen  built  m  1824.  It  contains  a 
statue  of  the  Marquis  of  Hastings,  by 
Chantrey. 


The  hall  is  lined  with  marble,  and 
measures  90  x  45  ft.  It  contains  statues 
of  the  mat  Marquis  of  Dalhousie,  and 
of  the  Rt  Hon.  James  Wilson,  and  a 
bust  of  Edward  E.  Venables,  indigo 
planter,  Azimgarh,  all  three  by  Steell, 
K.S.A.  Also  busts  of  Brig. -General 
Neil,  O.B.,  and  of  Sir  Henry  Ha velock, 
by  Noble ;  and  of  Sir  James  Outram 
and  General  John  Nicholson,  who  led 
the  attack  upon  Delhi,  by  Foley. 

The  Bengal  Asiatic  Society  is  at  57 
Park  Street.  This  institution  wai» 
established  in  1784  by  Sir  William 
Jones  and  led  to  the  foundation  of 
the  Royal  Asiatic  Society  in  London. 
Visitors  can  be  elected  members.  The 
Agiatic  .Researchea  began  to  be  issued 
in  1788,  and  continued  to  be  published 
until  1839.  The  Journal  began  in 
1832,  and  from  that  time  to  1839  both 
publications  were  issued.  The  curi- 
osities have  all  been  sent  to  the  Indian 
Museum,  where  the  Society  was  to  have 
bad  rooms.  This  having  been  denied 
to  them,  Government  n\^e  a  grant  to 
the  Society  of  1}  lakhs  in  compensation. 
The  library  consists  of  16,000  volumes, 
and  there  is  a  large  collection  of  coins, 
copper-plates,  pictures,  and  busts. 

The  Post  Office  (opened  1870)  is  a 
fine  building.  It  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  S.  face  of  the  Old  Fort,  and  looks 
E.  on  Dalhousie  Square,  formerly  Tank 
Square,  and  S.  on  Koilah  Ghat  Street. 
It  cost  680,5x0  rs.,  and  occupies  an  area 
of  103,100  sq.  ft.  At  the  S.E.  corner 
is  a  lofty  dome.  .According  to  the 
Government  plan,  the  site  of  the  Black 
Hole  is  marked  by  the  third  and  fourth 
pillars  in  the  side  fronting  the  Square, 
counting  from  N.  to  S. 

The  Telegraph  Office  is  also  a  fine 
building.  It  stands  at  the  S.  comer 
of  Dalhousie  Square. 

Fort -William,  S.  of  the  Maidan, 
received  its  name  from  William  III. 
Its  site  was  changed  in  1757,  after 
the  battle  of  Plassey,  from  that  which 
is  now  occupied  by  the  Post  Office,  to 
the  river-bank,  where  Clive  commenced 
a  new  and  much  more  formidable 
fortress,  which  was  finished  in  1773, 
and  cost  £2, 000, 000.    It  is  an  irregular 


58 


OAIXJUTTA  OITT 


IniHa 


octaffon,  of  which  five  sides  look  land- 
wara  and  three  on  the  river.  It  ia 
surrounded  by  a  fosse  SO  ft.  deep  and 
50  ft.  broad,  which  can  be  filled  from 
the  river.  There  are  now  two  regi- 
ments, one  English  and  one  N.  I.,  and 
one  battery  of  artillery.  There  are  six 
gates — Chowringhee,  Plassey,  Calcutta, 
and  Water  Gate,  as  well  as  St.  George's 
and  the  Treasury  Gate.  Opposite  the 
Water  Gate  is  the  Gwalior  Monument, 
erected  by  Lord  Ellenborough,  in  1844, 
in  memory  of  the  officers  and  men  who 
fell  in  the  Gwalior  campaign  of  1843. 
It  was  designed  by  Colonel  W.  H. 
Goodwyn,  Beng.  Eng.  It  is  of  brick, 
faced  with  Jeypore  marble,  surmounted 
by  a  metal  cupola  made  from  guns 
taken  from  the  enemy.  In  the  centre 
the  names  of  those  who  fell  at  the 
battles  of  Maharajpur  and  Paniar  are 
engraved  on  a  sarcophagus.  There  is 
also  a  sallyport  between  Water  and  St. 
George's  Gates.  Entering  by  Chow- 
ringhee Gate,  past  the  Governor's  resid- 
ence, used  as  a  Soldiers'  Institute  and 
Garrison  School,  is  the  Fort  Church, 
St  Peter's,  built  in  1835.  The  Catholic 
Chapel,  St.  Patrick's,  was  built  in  1857. 
The  Military  Prison  is  built  on  a  mas- 
sive storehouse,  on  which  is  an  inscrip- 
tion relating  to  the  amount  of  rice  and 
grain  deposited  there  by  the  authorities 
in  1782.  The  ArseTicU  is  worth  a  visit. 
The  Fort  commands  the  river,  and  is 
a  formidable  defence  to  Calcutta. 

The  remains  of  the  Old  Fort.— The 
first  Fort- William  lay  between  Banks- 
hall  Street,  now  Eoilah  Ghat  Street, 
on  the  S.,  and  Fort  Ghat  Street,  now 
Fairlie  Place,  on  the  N.  Its  W.  side 
fronted  the  river.  80  ft.  W.  of  the 
Post  Office  is  all  that  remains  of  the 
S.  curtain  of  the  Fort, — a  row  of  arches 
10  ft.  hich  in  the  walL  The  place  is 
now  used  as  a  workshop,  with  stables 
at  the  W.  end.  According  to  some 
authorities,  the  Black  Hole  was  at  the 
second  arch  where  you  enter. 

Metcalfe  ffcdl,  close  by  the  S.W. 
comer  of  Hare  Street,  was  founded  in 
honour  of  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  by  public 
subscription.  The  design  is  copied 
from  the  portico  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Winds  at  Athens.  The  entrance  is  on 
the  E,  under  a  roofed-in  colonnade.  The 


buHding  contains  the  Public  Library 
and  the  offices  of  the  Agricultural  and 
Horticultural  Society.  In  the  Library, 
which  has  passed  tnrough  a  period  of 
shameful  neglect,  there  are  many  rare 
and  valuable  works. 

St  PaiU'B  Cathedral,  on  the  E.  of 
the  Maidan,  is  about  1  m.  from  the  Fort 
(archit,  Mig'or  W.  N.  Forbes).  The 
style  is  Hindu  -  Gothic,  or  spurious 
Gothic  modified  to  suit  the  climate  of 
India.  In  the  vestry  of  the  Cathedral 
is  a  large  folio  MS.  volume  entitled 
"  History  of  the  Erection  of  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral,"  which  contains  a  plan  of 
the  Cathedral  at  p.  265.  Over  the 
porch  is  a  library,  left  to  the  public  by 
Bishop  Wilson,  and  here  is  an  ex- 
cellent bust  of  that  Bishop.  The  K 
window  represents  the  Crucifixion, 
designed  by  West.  It  cost  £4000,  and 
was  eiven  dv  the  Dean  and  Chapter  of 
Windsor.  It  was  intended  to  be  given 
by  George  III.  to  St.  George's  Chapel, 
Windsor.  Beneath  it  are  mosaics. 
The  Communion  Plate  was  given  by 
the  Queen.  The  building  cost  £50,000, 
of  which  the  Bishop  gave  £20,000,  half 
of  which,  however,  went  to  endowment 
The  W.  central  window  is  a  memorial 
to  Lord  Mayo. 

On  the  1.  side  of  the  vestibule  is  a 
black  marble  tablet  to  16  officers  of  the 
Bengal  Engineers,  who  fell  during 
the  Indian  Kevolt  in  the  years  1867- 
58.  It  is  ornamented  with  16  bronze 
medallions,  representing  a  well-known 
and  gallant  incident  m  the  siege  of 
Delhi — the  blowing  up  of  the  Cashmere 
Gate  by  Lieutenant  Salkeld.  Next  is 
a  tablet  to  15  officers  who  fell  in  the 
Bhutan  campaign.  Next  is  a  very  i 
elaborate  and  peculiar  monument,  in 
memory  of  John  Paxton  Norman,  of 
the  Inner  Temple,  officiating  Chief 
Justice  of  Bengal,  who  was  assassinated 
on  the  steps  of  the  Town  Hall  when 
entering  the  High  Court  on  20th  Sep- 
tember 1871.  Next  is  a  tablet  to  7 
officers  of  the  68th  Regiment  N.I., 
"who  died  during  the  Mutiny  of  the 
Native  Troops,  and  subsequent  opera- 
tions, from  1857  to  1859  ;  some  on  the 
field  of  battle,  some  by  the  hands  of 
their  own  followers,  others  from  disease; 
all  doing  their  duty." 


0HURGHE8 


59 


Then  follows  a  tablet  to  Mr.  William 
Ritchie  of  the  Calcutta  Bar  and  Inner 
Temple,  a  member  of  the  Council  of 
the  Goyemor-GeneraL  The  inscription 
on  the  tablet  is  by  Thackeray,  who  was 
a  cousin  of  Mr.  Ritchie's.  On  the  left 
is  a  tablet  to  Sir  H.  M.  Lawrence. 
The  tablet  is  adorned  with  a  medallion 
portrait  in  white  marble.  In  the  centre 
of  the  left  wall  of  the  passage  from  the 
vestibule  to  the  transepts  and  body  of  the 
church  is  a  monument  to  Lord  Elgin. 

In  the  S.E.  comer  of  the  S.  transept 
is  the  tomb  of  Lady  Ccmningf  brought 
from  Barrackpur.  It  consists  of  a  base 
of  white  marble  with  a  sarcophagus, 
on  which  is  inlaid  a  cross  with  flowers. 

The  upper  part  of  the  steeple  fell 
during  the  great  earthquake  of  12th 
June  1897. 

St.  John's  Church,  the  Old  Cathedral, 
—To  the  W.  of  Church  Lane  before 
coming  to  the  General  Post  Office. 
**  Council  House  Street "  is  written  on 
the  S.  E.  gate  pillar.  The  compound  is 
shaded  with  trees.  Outside  the  church 
to  the  N.  of  the  W.  entrance  is  a 
domed  pavilion  about  60  ft  high,  with 
twelve  pillars.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  in  commemoration  of  those  who 
fell  in  the  Rohilla  war,  but  strangely 
enough  there  is  no  inscription. 

The  W.  vestibule  has  on  the  1.  a 
large  picture  of  the  Last  Supper,  painted 
and  presented  to  the  church  by  Sir  John 
Zoffany,  in  which  the  Apostles  are  all 
portraits  of  certain  well-known  inhabit- 
ants of  Calcutta.  The  head  of  Our 
Saviour  is  said  to  have  been  taken  from 
a  Greek  clergyman,  called  Parthenio, 
and  St.  John  from  Mr.  Blaquire,  the 
well-known  police  magistrate.  In  this 
church  and  its  compound  are  the  oldest 
and  most  interesting  tablets  to  be  found 
in  Calcutta. 

In.  the  compound  in  the  pavilion, 
at  the  K.  end,  is  a  tablet  to  William 
Hamilton,  who,  in  1717,  having  cured 
the  Emperor  Farrukhsiyar,  Obtained 
for  the  E.  I.  Company  the  right  of 
importing  their  ^oods  free  of  duty, 
ana  other  great  privQeees. 

Close  to  this  is  a  tablet  to  Job  Char- 
nock,  one  of  the  first  Governors  of 
Bengal,  and  the  founder  of  Calcutta. 

A  few  j9id^  to  the  3.  is  the  tomb  of 


Admiral  Watson,  who  with  Clive  re- 
took Calcutta.  It  has  a  large  square 
base  supporting  an  obelisk,  inscribed 
to  hist  memory. 

The  Old  Mission  Church.— This 
Church  is  called  the  Pooranah  Girjah, 
or  Old  Churckf  by  the  natives.  This, 
with  the  parsonage  and  the  office  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society,  is  in  a 
pretty  compound  in  Mission  Row.  It 
IS  125  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  81  ft. 
10  in.  broad,  and  seats  450  persons.  It 
was  built  by  the  celebrated  missionary 
Johann  Zacharias  Eiemander,  who  was 
bom  at  Azted,  in  Gothland,  Sweden, 
in  1711,  and  educated  at  the  University 
of  Upsal.  Being  offered  a  post  as  mis- 
sionary, he  left  England  in  1758,  and 
opened  a  school  in  Calcutta.  His 
second  wife  on  her  death  left  valuable 
jewels,  with  which  he  founded  a  school. 
He  called  his  Church  Beth  Tephillah, 
"House  of  Prayer."  When  blind  he 
was  deceived  into  signing  a  bond  which 
ruined  him.  The  church  was  seized  by 
his  creditors,  but  redeemed  by  Mr. 
Charles  Grant  for  10,000  rs.  He  then 
went  to  Chinsurah,  and  died  there  in 
1 799.  There  is  a  window  presented  by 
Kiemander's  grandson.  There  is  a  good 
engraving  of  him  in  the  Mission  Room, 
with  an  inscription  in  German.  There 
are  many  interesting  tablets  in  the 
church,  particularly  one  to  Mr.  Charles 
Grant,  and  one  to  the  Rev.  Henry 
Martyn,  also  to  Bishop  Dealtry  of 
Madras,  to  Bishop  Wilson,  and  to  an 
Arab  lady  of  distmction  who  was  con- 
verted to  Christianity. 

The  steeple  was  so  seriously  injured  by 
the  great  earthquake  of  12th  June  1897, 
that  it  has  been  necessary  to  rebuild  it. 

Missions  of  the  Church  of  England. 
— ^The  Oorford  Mission,  42  Cornwallis 
Street,  works  chiefly  among  the  high- 
caste  natives,  and  has  charge  of  Bishop's 
College  (in  Circular  Road),  a  Boys*  High 
School,  and  Industrial  School. 

S,P.G.,  headquarters  Bishop's  Col- 
lege, Lower  Circular  Road ;  Mission 
Church,  St.  Saviour's,  Wellesley  Square, 
with  a  Boarding  School. 

S.P,&,  Ladies'  Association  have 
charge  of  the  Milman  Memorial  School 
for  Girls. 

Sis^s  of  St,  John  (Clewer)  Iwve 


60 


OALOniTA   CITY 


India 


charge  of  the  Ckyvemment  General 
Hospital,  the  Medical  Staff  Hospital, 
the  Eden  Hospital,  and  the  Lady 
Gaxmixig  Home  for  Nurses.  Also  of 
native  mission-work  at  Peepulputty  in 
the  rice-fields  3  m.  distant. 

The  Free  OhurchofScotla'n^s  Mission, 
begun  by  Alexander  Duff  in  1830,  is 
conductwl  from  the  Duff  College, 
Nimtola  Street,  the  Mission  houses 
2  Comwallis  Square,  and  the  "Woman's 
Society's  Schools  in  Beadon  Street. 
The  Scottish  church  is  in  Wellesley 
Square. 

The  Scotch  Kirk,  St.  And/rew*s,  is 
situated  in  Radha  Bazaar.  It  is  called 
by  the  natives  LaZ  Qirjah.  It  was 
opened  in  1818,  and  cost  £20,000. 
This  church  sends  a  representative  to 
the  General  Assembly  at  Edinburgh. 
It  seats  500  persons.  In  the  vestry 
there  is  a  portrait  of  Dr.  James  Bryce, 
the  first  minister,  by  Sir  John  Watson 
Gordon.  There  are  some  handsome 
monuments  within  the  church. 

The  first  Portuguese  came  to  Calcutta 
in  1689,  to  whom  the  English  sranted 
a  piece  of  land  in  Portuguese  Church 
Lane  on  which  the  friars  of  the  order 
of  St.  Augustin  erected  a  chapel 
in  1700.  Its  successor  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  was  built  in  1797. 
It  is  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary  of 
the  Rosary. . 

St.  Thomas's  Roman  Catholic 
Church. —: A  handsome  building,  in 
Middleton  Row,  not  far  from  the 
Indian  Museum ;  commenced  in  1841. 
Close  by  is  the  Convent  of  Our  Lady 
of  Loreto. 

The  Greek  Church. — Tuminc  to  the 
W.  down  Canning  Street,  on  ttie  way 
to  Burra  Bazaar,  the  traveller  will  come 
to  the  Greek  Church,  built  in  1780  by 
subscription,  Mr.  Warren  Hastings 
heading  the  list  with  2000  rs. 

The  Armenian  Church  of  St.  Nazar- 
eth is  close  by.  It  is  on  the  rt.  of  the 
road  leading  to  Burra  Bazaar.  It  was 
founded  in  1724,  and  completed  in  1790. 

The  Brahma  SomaJ  is  the  reformed 
Theistic  sect  of  Hindus.  It  has  very 
little  hold  on  the  rural  population,  the 
few  members  being  generally  men  of 
eood  social  position.  The  sect  was 
founded  by  Kaja  Ram  Mohan  Rai  in 


1830.  In  1858  Keshab  Chandra  Sen 
joined  the  Somaj,  being  then  20  years 
of  age.  In  1862  he  was  ordained 
minister  of  the  Calcutta  BrahmalSomaj. 
In  October  1865  his  secession  took  place, 
and  next  year  a  new  body  was  organised 
by  Eeshab,  entitled  the  Brahma  Somaj 
of  India,  and  in  January  1868  the  first 
stone  was  laid  of  a  new  church  for  the 

S regressive  Brahmas  or  Keshab  Chan- 
ra  Sen's  party.  Brahma  marriages 
being  illegat  in  1872,  on  the  application 
of  Keshab,  Lord  Mayo  passed  the 
Native  Marriage  Act,  which  enacts  that 
the  parties  must  be  unmarried,  the 
brideflproom  and  bride  must  have  com- 
pleted the  age  of  18  and  14  years 
respectively,  must  not  be  related  within 
certain  degrees,  and,  if  under  21,  except 
in  the  case  of  a  widow,  must  have  the 
written  consent  of  parent  or  guardian. 
The  Hosqne  of  Prince  Ghnlam  Mu- 
hammad.— This  is  the  finest  Mosque 


in  Calcutta,  and  stands  at  the  corner 
of  DhuramtoUa  Street  and  may  be 
visited  when  driving  up  Chowringhee, 
from  which  it  is  conspicuous.  It  is 
inscribed,  "This  Musjid  was  erected 
during  the  Government  of  Lord  Auck- 
land, G.C.B.,  by  the  Prince  Ghulam 
Muhammad,  son  of  the  late  Tipu  Sultan, 
in  gratitude  to  God,  and  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  Honourable  Court  of  Dir- 
ectors granting  him  the  arrears  of  his 
stipend  in  1840." 

Belvedere,  the  Lt.-Oovemor*s  Palace. 
— This  fine  building  stands  in  ex- 
tensive and  well-kept  grounds.  In 
the  entrance  hall  are  some  trophies  of 
Indian  arms,  and  full-length  portraits 
of  Sir  John  Grant  and  Sir  William  Grey. 
In  the  reception  room  are  portraits  of 
H.M.  the  Queen-Empress  and  of  Sir 
Charles  and  Lady  Elliott.  The  electric 
li^ht  is  worked  from  the  neighbouring 
jail.  At  the  spot  which  is  now  the  W. 
entrance  of  Belvedere,  on  the  'AJipur 
road,  was  fought  the  duel  between  War- 
ren Hastings  and  Sir  Philip  Francis, 
in  which  the  latter  was  wounded. 

Race-course. — In  driving  to  Belve- 
dere, the  Race-course  on  "ftie  Maidan 
will  be  passed  on  the  rt.  The  ground  is 
perfectly  level,  and  the  distance  is  2  m. 

Garden  Reach. — Here  used  to  be 
numerous  fine  villas,  most  of  which 


BOTANICAL   QABDENl 


61 


were  built  between  1768  and  1780, 
now  utilised  by  steamship  companies 
and  cotton  and  jute  mills.  Just  above 
Garden  Reach  is  the  village  of  Kidder- 
pur,  so  called  after  Mr.  Kyd,  who  con- 
i  structed  the  Government  Dockyard, 
near  wluch  the  Port  Trust  has  excavated 
magnificent  new  Docks.  Between  1781 
and  1821  ships  were  built  at  the  Eid- 
derpur  Docks,  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£2,000,000,  and  in  1818,  the  Hastings, 
a  74-gun  ship  was  launched  there.  At 
the  W.  extremity  of  Garden  Reach,  or 
in  its  vicinity,  was  situated  the  small 
fort  of  'Aliearh,  and  opposite  to  it,  on 
the  other  bank  of  the  river,  was  the 
Fort  of  Tanna,  both  of  which  were 
taken  by  Olive  in  the  recapture  of 
Calcutta  in  1756. 

A  short  distance  to  the  £.of 'Alipur, 
and  immediately  S.E.  of  Calcutta,  is  the 
suburb  of  BaHgunj,  within  the  limits  of 
the  S.  Suburban  Municipality,  and  the 
residence  of  many  Europeans.  Beyond 
is  ToIlygroDJ  where  the  Calcutta  resi- 
dents have  laid  out  the  fine  grounds  of 
the  Athletic  Club. 

Ealighat,  celebrated  as  the  site  of  a 
temple  in  honour  of  the  goddess  Kali, 
the  wife  of  Shiva,  is  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  old  bed  of  the  Ganges,  a 
few  m.  S.  of  Calcutta.  The  place 
derives  sanctity  from  the  legend  that 
when  the  corpse  of  Shiva's  wife  was 
cut  in  pieces  by  order  of  the  gods, 
and  chopped  up  by  the  disc  {svdaraan 
chakra)  of  Vishnu,  one  of  her  fingers 
fell  on  this  spot.  The  temple  is 
supposed  to  have  been  built  about 
three  centuries  ago.  A  member  of  the 
Sabama  Chandhu  family,  who  at  one 
time  owned  considerable  estates  in 
this  part  of  the  coimtry,  cleared  the 
jungle,  built  the  temple,  and  allotted 
194  acres  of  land  for  its  maintenance. 
A  man  of  the  name  of  Chandibar  was 
the  first  priest  appointed  to  manage 
the  affairs  of  the  temple.  His  descend- 
ants have  now  taken  the  title  of 
BLaldar,  and  are  at  present  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  building.  They  have 
amassed  great  wealth,  not  so  much 
from  the  proceeds  of  the  Temple  lands 
as  from  the  daily  offerings  made  by 
pilgrims  to  the  shrine.  The  principal 
religlotti  iMtival  of  the  year  is  on  the 


second  day  of  the  Durea-piga,  when 
the  temple  is  visited  by  crowds  of 
pilgrims,  principally  belonging  to  the 
oistrict  of  the  24  Farganas  and  the 
surrounding  villages. 

Crossing  Kidderpur  bridge,  the  visitor 
passes  the  garden  gate  of  what  was  once 
the  residence  of  the  late  King  of  Oudh. 

exouesions  in  the  vicinity  of 
Calcutta. 

The  Boyal  Botanical  Gardens,  on 
the  W.  bank  of  the  river,  opposite 
'Alipur,  were  founded  in  1786,  on  the 
suggestion  of  General  Kyd,  who  was 
appointed  the  first  Superintendent. 
His  successors,  Roxburgh,  Wallich, 
Griffith,  Falconer,  Thomson,  Anderson, 
and  King,  have  all  been  celebrated 
botanists.  The  visitor  may  drive  to 
the  Gardens  from  Howrah  or  to  the 
King  of  Gudh's  place  and  cross  the  river 
Hooghly  in  a  boat  The  area  of  the 
Gardens  is  272  acres,  with  river  frontage 
of  a  mile.  Thewhole  of  them  may  beseen 
without  descending  from  the  carriage. 
At  the  N.  W.  comer  is  the  Howrah  Gate, 
where  are  three  fine  trees — a  Picas 
indica  in  the  centre,  with  a  FiciLs 
religiosa  on  either  side.  There  is  an 
avenue  of  Palmyra  palms  to  the  right 
of  the  entrance,  and  one  of  mahogany 
trees  to  the  left.  The  visitor  will  pass 
up  a  broad  road  in  the  centre,  leaving 
to  the  left  a  sheet  of  water,  and  then 
passing  through  casuarina  trees,  up 
which  are  trained  specimens  of  climb- 
ing palms,  will  enter  the  Palm  Planta- 
tion. A  canal  divides  this  from  the 
rest  of  the  Gardens,  crossed  by  three 
bridges.  Having  crossed  one  of  these, 
the  visitor  will  find  the  Flower  Garden 
on  the  right,  where  are  many  con- 
servatories and  two  orchid  houses: 
close  by  is  a  conservatory  200  ft. 
long,  and  a  monument  to  General  Eyd, 
from  which  a  broad  walk  runs  down 
to  the  River  Entrance.  Leaving  this 
to  the  left,  the  visitor  will  pass  along  a 
road  which  leads  to  the  Great  Banyan 
Tree  {Ficus  indica),  which  covers  ground 
nearly  1000  ft.  in  circumference.  On 
the  1.  of  an  avenue  near  the  great  tree 
is  a  monument  to  Roxburgh,  with  a 
Latin  epitaph  by  Heber.    There  are 


BZCUBSIONS  IN  THE  VIOINITT  OF  OALOUTTA 


India 


also  tablets  in  the  Ghu'den,  near  the  old 
conservatory,  to  Jack  and  to  Griffith. 

Sir  J.  Hooker,  in  his  interesting 
work  Himalayan  JowmalSt  vol.  i. 
says  of  these  Gardens,  in  1848,  that 
'^  they  had  contributed  more  useful 
and  ornamental  tropical  plants  to  the 
public  and  private  gardens  of  the  world 
than  any  otner  establishment  before  or 
since."  He  says  also,  "  that  the  great 
Indian  Herbarium,  chiefly  formed  by 
the  Staff  of  the  Botanic  Grardens,  under 
the  direction  of  Dr.  Wallich,  and  distri 
buted  in  1829  to  the  principal  Mu 
seums  of  Europe,  was  the  most  valu- 
able contribution  of  the  kind  ever 
made  to  science ; "  and  adds,  '*  that  the 
origin  of  the  tea-culture  in  the  Hima- 
layas and  Assam  was  almost  entirely 
the  work  of  the  Superintendent  of  the 
Gardens  at  Calcutta  and  Saharanpur." 
The  Superintendent  has  a  house  in  the 
Gardens.  Near  it  is  the  Herbarium,  or 
collection  of  dried  plants,  probably  the 
only  one  in  Asia  of  the  first  class. 
There  are  from  80,000  to  40,000  species 
represented  in  it.  Attached  to  the  Her- 
barium  is  a  very  fine  Botanic  Library. 

GlTil  Bngineexiiiff  College,  N.  of 
the  Gardens,  including  the  Bishop's 
College,  looks  well  from  the  river. 

Bairackpur  sta.,  called  by  the  natives 
Charnook,  from  Job  Chamock,  who 
resided  there  for  a  period.  The  journey 
may  be  made  by  rail,  carriage,  or  by 
river,  if  the  traveller  can  procure  the 
loan  of  a  steam  launch.  The  trip  up 
the  river  takes  3  hrs. ,  and  is  interesting 
and  picturesque.  If  time  permits,  the 
river  excursion  may  pleasantly  be  ex- 
tended to  Serampore,  Chandemagore, 
Chinsurah,  and  Hooffhly  (see  below). 

Just  before  reaching  Barrackpur, 
there  are  some  handsome  modem 
temples  on  the  1.  bank,  then  comes 
the  beautiful  park  (rt.)  with  noble  trees 
and  a  small  pier  as  landing-place,  at 
which  the  Viceroy's  yacht  very  often 
lies.  At  300  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the 
house,  under  a  fine  tamarind  tree,  is  a 
polygonal  enclosure,  within  which  is 
a  white  marble  monument  to  Lady 
Canning ;  it  replaces  that  removed  to 
the  Cathedral  at  Calcutta.  The  Hall, 
built  by  the  Earl  of  Minto  in  1818,  is 


100  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  house,  and 
stands  within  a  colonnade  of  Corinthian 
pillars.  Over  the  outside  entrance  is 
a  bladt  slab,  inscribed — 

To  the  Memory  of  the  Brave. 

On  the  walls  are  four  Tablets  erected 
by  different  Governors-General  to  the 
memory  of  British  soldiers  who  fell  in 
Mauritius  and  Java  1810-11,  in  Isle  of 
France,  Maharajpur,  and  Paniar,  1843. 

The  House,  whidi  is  the  Viceroy's 
country  residence,  was  commenced  by 
Lord  Minto,  and  enlarged  to  its  present 
size  by  the  Marquis  of  Hastings.  It 
contains  some  interesting  pictures  of 
native  princes.  N.  of  the  park  is  Bar- 
rackpur Cantonment.  Iroops  were 
first  stationed  there  in  1772,  when  the 

Slace  received  its  name.  In  1824, 
uring  the  Burmese  War,  the  47th 
B.  N.  I.,  which  was  ordered  on  service, 
mutinied  here  on  the  30th  October, 
on  which  the  Commander-in-Chief,  Sir 
Edward  Fa^et,  proceeded  to  the  can- 
tonment with  two  European  regts.,  a 
battery  of  European  artillery,  and  a 
troop  of  the  Governor-Generars  Body- 
guara.  The  mutinous  regiment  was 
drawn  up  in  fiice  of  these  troops,  and 
was  ordered  to  march,  or  ground  arms. 
The  Sepoys  refused  to  obey,  when  the 
guns  opened  upon  them,  and  throwing 
away  their  arms  and  accoutrements 
they  made  for  the  river.  Some  were 
shot  down,  some  drowned,  many  hanged, 
and  the  regt.  was  struck  out  of  the 
"  Army  List."  Again,  in  1867,  there 
were  Mutiny  troubles  here. 

Diun  Dum  sta.,  D.B.,  4^  m.  from  Cal- 
cutta. A  municipal  town  and  canton- 
ment. There  is  a  D.B.  in  the  sta. 
(31,578  inhab.)  It  was  the  headquarters 
of  the  Bengal  Artillery  from  1783  till 
1853,  when  they  were  removed  to 
Meerut ;  and  their  mess-house  is  now 
the  Soldiers'  Club,  and  is  known  as  the 
Outram  InstitiUe,  A  bust  of  Sir  James 
Outram  stands  in  the  verandah. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Barrack  Square 
is  a  huge  gun  which  has  seen  some 
service.  Near  this  is  the  monument 
to  the  officers  and  men  killed  in  the 
Khaibar  whilst  returning  from  Kabul 
in  1841.  The  Treaty  which  testored 
the  British  settlements  after  the  re* 


FBOM  OALOUTTA  UP  THE  W.  BANK  OF  THE  HOOGHLT 


63 


oaptore  of  Calcutta  was  siffned  at  Dam 
Dum.  There  is  an  En^ish  Ohuroh 
~St  Stephen's — a  Romiw  Catholic 
Chapel,  and  a  Wesleyan  Chapel. 
There  is  a  SmaU  Arm  Ammunition 
Factory,  which  is  guarded  by  British 
Infanliy. 

Polo,  cricket,  and  football,  snipe- 
shooting,  and  tank-fishinff  are  the 
amnsements  of  tiie  place.  Lord  Clire 
had  a  house  at  Dum  Dum,  and  Fairy 
Hall  was  occupied  by  Sir  Henry 
Lawrence,  when  a  Lieutenant. 

Prom  Calcutta  hy  the  K  J.  Kl/y,  up  the 
W,  bank  of  the  HoogMy, 

The  Howrah  sta.  is  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Hooghly  river,  200  yds.  beyond 
the  Hoo^y  Bridge.  This  bridge 
opens  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  for  two 
hours  for  ships  to  pass. 

Madras  time  is  kept  at  all  stations, 
and  is  33  min.  behind  Calcutta  time. 
1st  and  2d  class  return-tickets,  avail- 
able for  two  months,  are  issued  to  any 
stiEition  more  than  180  m.  distant,  at  the 
rate  of  one  ordinary  fare  and  a  half. 
Holdere  of  monthly  tickets,  on  arriving 
at  a  station  where  they  intend  breaking 
their  journey  must  have  inserted  on  their 
tickets  the  date  and  train  of  arrival, 
and  when  leaving  the  date  and  train 
of  departure.  Each  first-class  passenger 
may  take  1}  maunds  of  luggage  free. 

24  UL  Hooghly  sta.  (Hugli)  and  Chin- 
sorah  (2  m.  from  Hooghly  sta.,  see 
below),  are  bracketed  together  as  one 
in  the  Census  Report,  and  together 
cover  an  area  of  6  sq.  m.  The  pop.  is 
31,000.  Hooghly  town  is  the  adminis- 
trative headquarters  of  the  district  of 
the  same  name.  It  was  founded  by 
the  Portuguese  in  1547  A.D.,  when  the 
royal  port  of  Bengal,  Satgaon,  began 
to  be  deserted,  owing  to  the  silting  up 
of  the  Saraswati,  on  which  river  it 
was  situated.  They  commenced  by 
building  a  fortress  at  Ghol^hat,  close 
to  the  present  Hooghly  jail,  some 
vestiges  of  which  are  still  visible  in 
the  bed  of  the  river.  When  Shah  Jehan 
came  to  the  throne,  complaints  were 
made  to  him  of  the  conduct  of  the 
Portuguese  at  Hooghly.  He  sent  a 
large  force  there ;  the  fort  was  besieged, 


and  after  4}  months  was  stormed. 
More  than  1000  Portuguese  were 
slain,  and  4000  men,  women,  and  chil' 
dren  were  captured.  Out  of  300  Portu- 
guese vessels  only  three  escaped.  The 
prisonen  were  sent  to  Agra,  and 
forcibly  converted  to  Islam.  Satgaon 
was  then  abandoned  for  Hooghly,  which 
was  made  the  royal  port,  and  was  also 
the  first  settlement  of  the  English  in 
Lower  Bengal.  The  £.  I.  Co.  established 
a  factory  there  in  1Q42,  under  &  finnan 
from  Sultan  Shuja',  Governor  of  Ben- 
gal, and  second  son  of  Shah  Jehan. 
Thia  firman  was  granted  to  Dr.  Bough 
ton,  who  had  cured  a  favourite  daughter 
of  the  emperor,  and  who  asked  for  it 
when  desired  to  name  his  reward.  In 
1669,  the  Company  received  permission 
to  bring  their  ships  to  Hooghly  to  load, 
instead  of  transporting  their  goods  in 
small  vessels,  and  then  shipping  them 
into  large.  In  1685,  a  dispute  took 
place  between  the  English  at  Hooghly 
and  the  Nawab  of  Bengal,  and  the 
Company  sent  a  foree  to  protect  their 
Hooghly  factories.  It  chanced  that  a 
few  EDglish  soldiers  were  attacked  by 
the  Nawab's  men  in  the  bazaars,  and  a 
street  fight  ensued.  Colonel  Nicholson 
bombarded  the  town,  and  burned  500 
houses,  including  the  Company's  ware- 
houses, containing  goods  to  the  value 
of  £300, 000.  The  chief  of  the  English 
factory  was  obliged  to  fly  to  Sutanuti, 
or  Chattanatti,  and  take  shelter  with 
some  native  merchants.  In  1742 
Hooghly  was  sacked  by  the  Marathas. 
The  principal  thing  to  be  seen  at 
Hooghly  is  the  Imambarah,  built  by 
Earamat  'Ali,  the  friend  and  companion 
of  Arthur  Connolly,  at  a  cost  of  800,000 
rs.  from  funds  bequeathed  by  Muham- 
mad Mushin,  who  owned  a  quarter  of 
the  ^eat  Saiyadpur  estate,  in  Jessore 
District,  and  died  m  1814,  without  heirs, 
leaving  property  worth  £4500  a  year  for 
pious  purposes.  The  trustees  quar- 
relled, and  Government  assumed  charge 
of  the  estate.  During  the  litigation  a 
fund  of  £86,110  had  accumulated,  and 
with  this  the  Hooghly  College  was 
founded,  in  1886.  The  faQade  of  the 
I  Imambarah  is  277  ft  x  86  ft,  and  in 
its  centre  is  a  gateway  flanked  by  two 
I  minarets,  or  towers,  114  ft  high*    Qu 


84 


SX0UBSI0N8  IN  THS  TICINITT  OF  OALOUTTA 


India 


either  aide  of  the  door  are  inscriptions. 
Within  is  a  quadrangle,  150  ft  x  80  ft, 
with  rooms  all  round,  and  a  fine  hall, 
paved  with  marble,  having  a  pulpit 
with  sides  covered  with  plates  of  silver, 
and  a  verse  of  the  Koran  inscribed  in 
each  plate.  The  library  was  bequeathed 
hj  Karamat  'Ali,  but  a  few  books  have 
since  been  added  by  other  people. 
Amonc  them  are  787  MSS.,  including  a 
fine  foUo  Koran,  in  two  vols.,  given  by 
Prince  Ghulam  Muhammad,  son  of 
Tipu.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road 
from  this  Imambarah  is  the  old  Imam> 
barah,  bmlt  in  1776-77.  In  the  W. 
comer  lie  the  remains  of  Karamat  'Ali, 
and  there  is  a  white  marble  tablet  placed 
a^^st  the  wall,  with  an  extract  from 
the  Koran,  but  no  tomb. 

About  6  m.  from  Hooghly  is  ScUgaon, 
where  there  is  a  ruined  mosque, 
which,  together  with  a  few  tombs 
near  it,  is  the  only  remnant  of  the 
old  capital  of  Lower  Bengal.  It  was 
built  by  Saiyad  Jamalu-din,  son  of 
Fakhru-din,  who,  according  to  in- 
scriptions in  the  mosque,  came  from 
Amol,  a  town  on  the  Caspian.  The 
walls  are  of  small  bricks,  adorned 
inside  and  out  with  arabesques.  The 
central  Mihrab  is  very  nne.  The 
arches  and  domes  are  in  the  later 
Pathan  style.  At  the  S.E.  angle 
are  three  tombs  in  an  enclosure. 
During  the  last  century,  the  Dutch 
of  Chinsurah  had  their  country  seats 
at  Satgaon,  to  which  they  walked, 
in  the  middle  of  the  day,  to  dine. 
The  river  of  Satgaon,  up  to  Akbar's 
time,  formed  the  N.  frontier  of 
Orissa,  and  Satgaon  flourished  for 
not  less  than  1500  years.  Three  cen- 
turies ago  the  Hoognly  flowed  by  the 
town. 

Chinsurah  is  written  in  the  old 
Hindu  books,  Chiichimda  or  Ohim- 
chuda.  Chinsurah  was  held  by  the 
Dutch  for  180  years,  and  ceded  by 
them  to  the  English  in  exchange  for 
Sumatra,  in  1826.  The  old  DiUeh 
Church,  of  brick,  is  said  to  have  been 
built  by  the  Governor  in  1678.  In 
it  are  14  escutcheons,  dating  from 
1685  to  1770,  and  the  inscriptions  are 
in  Dutch. 

The  ffooghly  OolUgi  is  to  the  S.  of 


the  church.  There  are  600  stadents. 
The  cemetery  is  1  m.  to  the  W.  of  the' 
church ;  the  new  part  is  tolerably  well 
kept,  but;  not  so  the  part  where  the 
ola  tombs  are.  Many  of  them  are  of 
Dutch  officials. 


Bandel  is  1  m.  N.  of  Hooghly  and 
28  m.  N.  of  Calcutta.  The  Portugew 
monastery  and  church  was  built  in 
1599,  and  the  keystoue  with  the  date 
was  erected  in  the  new  one,  which  is 
of  brick,  and  very  solidly  built  It  it 
dedicated  to  Nossa  Senhora  di  Rosario. 
There  are  fine  cloisters  on  the  S.,  and 
a  priory,  in  whidi  is  a  noble  room  cialled 
St  Augustine's  HalL  The  organ  is 
good.  The  church  was  founded  by  the 
Augustinian  Missionaries,  demolished 
by  Shah  Jehan  in  1640,  and  rebuilt  by 
John  Gomez  di  Soti. 


Serampore  sta.  The  headquarters  ot 
the  subdivision  of  the  same  name  is 
on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hooghly,  oppo- 
site Barrackpur,  13  m.  from  Calcutta 
(24,440  inhab.)  Babu  Bholanath  Chan- 
dra, in  his  Travels  of  a  Hindu,  p.  6, 
says,  **  Serampore  is  a  snug  little  town, 
and  possesses  an  exceeding  elegance  and 
neatness  of  appearance.  The  range  of 
houses  alone  the  river-side  makes  up  a 
gay  and  brilliant  picture.  The  streets 
are  as  brightly  clean  as  the  walks  in  a 
garden,  but  time  was  when  Serampore 
had  a  busy  trade,  and  22  ships  cleared 
from  this  small  port  in  three  months." 
Its  chief  claim  to  historical  notice  arises 
from  the  fact  that  it  was  the  scene  of  the 
apostolic  labours  of  Carev,  MarahTnaTi, 
Ward  and  Mack.  The  zeal  and  successes 
of  the  Baptist  missionaries  of  Seram- 
pore, at  the  beginning  of  this  century, 
form  one  of  the  bri^test  episodes  of 
Kvangeliatic  efforts  in  India.  From 
its  press  proceeded  40  translations  of 
the  Scriptures.  Serampore  was  for- 
merly a  Danish  settlement,  and  was 
then  called  Fredericksnafinr.  The  fine 
mansion  of  the  Danish  Governor  now 
forms  the  Courts  of  Justice  and  admini- 
strative offices.  In  1845  a  treaty 
was  made  with  the  King  of  Den* 
mark,  by  which  all  the  Danuh 


ROUTE  2.      AURA.NGABAD 


66 


ms  in   India,  namely,  Tranqnebar, 

redericksnagar,  and  a  small  piece  of 

oand  at  Bsdasore  were  transferred  to 

le  E.  I.  Company  for  £125,000. 

The  old  Danish  Church  (1805)  cost 

1,500  rs.,  of  which  1000  were  given 

the  Marquis  Wellesley.    There  are 

ilets    in    memory    of    the    above- 

itioned  Baptist  missionaries.    Their 

lbs   are   in    the    native   Christian 

pemetery,  on  the  right  hand  of  the 

Joad  from  the  railway  station.     The 

ftrnrch  is  now  Anglican. 

The  College  is  a  handsome  building 
m  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  com- 
ioands  a  fine  view  across  it,  over  Bar- 
raekpur  Park.  The  porch  is  supported 
by  six  pillars  60  ft  high.  On  the 
ground  floor  are  the  Lecture-rooms,  and 
in  the  floor  above,  the  Great  HaU,  which 
u  103  ft.  long,  and  66  ft.  broad.  In 
pe  Library  are  the  following  portraits : 
1.  Madame  Grand,  by  Zoflfany ;  she 
tfterwards  married  Talleyrand  (see 
hdme.  de  Remusat's  Memoirs) ;  2.  Dr. 
harshman,  by  Zoffany ;  3.  Frederick 
VI.  of  Denmark  ;  4.  Frederick's  wife, 
Qaeen  of  Denmark ;  5.  copy  of  a 
iiadonna by  Raphael;  6.  Rev.  W.Ward, 
fcy  Penny.  The  library  contains  the 
first  editions  of  Carey  and  Marshman*s 
Ibrty  translations  of  the  Bible ;  also 
lome  curious  Sanscrit  and  Thibetan 
manuscripts,  and  an  account  of  the 
ipoBtles  drawn  up  by  Xavier's  nephew 
fcr  Akbar.  In  the  College  compound 
k  the  house  in  which  Carey  lived  and 
died,  now  inhabited  by  the  Principal  of 
the  College.  Before  reaching  the  Col- 
lege the  Mission  Chapel  is  passed,  with 
memorial  slabs. 

The  fine  mansion  next  to  the  chapel, 
wMch  was  the  common  centre  of  the 
Semmpore  brotherhood,  with  all  Carey's 
park  and  botanic  garden,  is  now  the 
property  of  the  India  Jate  Company. 
Here,  from  1836  to  1875,  the  weekly 
friend  of  India  was  edited. 

Chandemagore  sta.  a^c  The  French 
inade  a  settlement  here  in  1673,  and 
in  the  time  of  Dupleix  more  than  2000 
brick  houses  were  built  in  the  town. 
Mid  a  considerable  trade  was  carried 
on.  In  1757  the  town  was  bombarded 
by  the  English  fleet  under  Admiral 
Watson,  and  captured.  The  fortifi- 
\I'ndioi\ 


cations  were  demolished,  but  in  1763 
the  town  was  restored  to  the  French. 
In  1794  it  was  again  captured  by  the 
English,  and  held  till  1815,  when  it 
was  again  restored  to  the  French,  and 
has  remained  in  their  possession  ever 
since.  The  railway  station  is  just 
outside  the  French  boundary. 

Chandernagore  receives  from  the 
English  800  chests  of  opium  on  con- 
dition that  the  inhabitants  do  not 
engage  in  the  manufacture  of  that 
article.  A  church  stands  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  tuilt  by  Italian  mission- 
aries in  1726.  Between  Chandernagore 
and  Chinsurah  is  Biderra,  where  the 
English  obtained  a  decisive  victory 
over  the  Dutch.  It  is  said  that  the 
English  commander  was  aware  that  his 
nation  and  the  Dutch  were  at  peace, 
and  wrote  to  Clive  for  an  order  in 
council  to  fight.  Clive  was  playing 
cards,  and  wrote  in  pencil:  "Dear 
Forde,  fight  them  to-day,  and  I  will 
send  you  an  order  to-morrow. — Thurs- 
day 17ih,  1.30  p.m." 


ROUTE  2 
Bombay  to  Atjrangabad  and  tha 
Caves  of  Ellora  by  Nandgaon  sta. 

Bombay  (Victoria  term.)  to  Nandgaon 
sta.  178  m.  by  the  G.  I.  P.  Rly.  The 
medl  tonga  rans  daily  from  Nandgaon 
to  Auraugabad,  a  distance. of  56  m. 
in  9  hours — a  fairly  good  road.  Con- 
veyances to  the  Ellora  Caves  can  be  had 
only  by  special  arrangement  with  the 
mail  contractor  at  Nandgaon. 

Deogaon,  D.B.  a^c  (36  m.  from 
Nandgaon). 

The  road  to  Roza  and  the  caves  leaves 
the  main  road  from  Auraugabad  H  m. 
beyond  Deogaon,  from  whicb  point 
the  caves  are  4^  m.  distant.  Some 
persons  prefer  to  go  first  direct  to 
Auraugabad,  seeing  Daulatabad,  the 
caves,  and  other  places  of  interest  on 
the  return  journey. 

56  m.  Auraugabad,  D.B.  This 
thriving  city  (pop.  8680),  which  has  a 
considerable  trade  in  cotton  and  wheat, 
was  first  called  Ehirki,  and  was  founded 
in  1610  by  Malik  Ambar,  the  head  of 
the  Abyssinian  faction  in  the  Ahmad- 
nagar  state.     The  town  lies  to- the-  E.^' 

F 


00 


aOUTJB  S.      BOMBAY  TO  AUBASGABAD 


India 


Um  eantonment  ttid  the  road  to  Dauk* 
tabad,Roia,and£UoTatothe  W.  300 
yds.  S.  of  the  Old  CemeUry^  1  m.  N.K  of 
the  city,  is  the  grand  Mansolensi  of 
Babi'a  Dnrrani,  daughter  of  Aurangzib. 
The  great  door  at  the  gateway  is  plated 
with  braes,  and  along  the  edge  is 
written, '  *  This  door  of  the  noble  mauso- 
leum was  made  in  1089  A.H.,  when 
Ateu'Uah  was  chief  architect,  by  Haibat 
Rai."  Near  the  inscription  is  an  in- 
ftnitesimally  small  figure,  which  is  said 
to  be  a  bird,  indistinctly  carved,  and 
there  is  a  similar  carving  on  the  door 
ef  the  mausoleum  itself.  It  is  a  com- 
mon joke  amongst  natives,  when  any 
1  asserts  that  he  has  been  to  Rabi'a  s 


mausoleum,  to  ask  if  he  saw  the  bird 
there,  and  if  he  answers  in  the  negative, 
to  dispute  his  having  seen  the  mauso- 
kum  at  aU.  In  the  garden  is  a  long 
narrow  basin  of  water,  in  which  foun- 
tains used  to  play,  and  on  either  side 
of  the  water  is  a  walk  and  ornamental 
wall,  in  the  wall  of  the  mausoleum 
is  a  second  but  much  smaller  door,  only 
6  ft.  high,  plated  with  brass,  where  the 
second  bird  is  pointed  out.  The  carving 
of  the  flowers  on  this  door  is  curious, 
and  that  of  the  dragons  particularly  so, 
and  both  are  extremely  like  Japanese 
work.  The  bird  is  on  the  edge  of  the 
door  close  to  the  upper  central  knob. 
The  cenotaph  is  enclosed  in  an  octa- 
gonal screen  of  white  marble  lattice- 
work exquisitely  carved,  and  stands  on 
a  raised  marble  platform.  The  place 
for  the  slab  is  empty,  and  nothing  but 
earth  appears.  This  is  much  approved 
hy  Moslems,  as  showing  humility.  The 
Government  of  the  Nizam  has  gone  to 
tfreat  expense  in  restoring  this  mauso- 
leam.  The  main  fault  of  this  otherwise 
1»eautiful  building,  which  is  compared 
to  the  Taj,  is  the  want  of  sufficient 
height  in  the  entrance  archway.  Ob- 
serve the  curious  roof  of  the  gateway 
of  the  mausoleum.  Below  the  right 
corner  of  the  platform  is  a  second  tomb, 
said  to  contain  the  remains  of  Rabi'a 
Durrani's  nurse.  There  is  no  inscrip- 
tion. In  the  gallery  above  the  tomb  is 
a  marble  door  exquisitely  carved.  To 
the  W.  of  the  mausoleum  is  a  mosque 
of  brick  faced  with  cement  {chunam)  oi 
a  ^«>Tr*^g  whiteness.    The  pavement  is 


corered  with  tnciBga  of  prayer-oarpetik 
The  mivibar,  or  pulpit,  is  of  marble. 

The  Pan  Chakki  or  water-mill  ii 
perhaps  the  prettiest  and  best  kept 
shrine  in  this  part  of  India.  It  is  sitn- 
ated  on  the  rt.  of  the  road  from  th« 
cantonment  to  the  Begampura  bridge, 
and  on  the  very  edse  of  the  Kham,  ua 
river  of  Aurangabaa.  To  enter,  turn  to 
the  rt  into  a  heautiful  garden  by  the 
side  of  a  brimming  tank  of  clear  water, 
full  of  fish  from  1  ft.  to  8  ft.  long,  of 
a  species  called  K?iol.  This  tank  over- 
flows into  a  lower  one,  and  that  again 
into  a  narrow  conduit.  The  saint  en- 
tombed here  (see  below)  is  Baba  Shah 
Muzaifar.  He  was  a  Chishii  (memb^"  of 
a  theosophical  sect  amon^  the  Mohain- 
medans),  and  came  originally  from 
Bokhara.  He  was  the  spiritual  pre- 
ceptor of  Aurangzib.  His  successor  ii 
still  in  charge  of  the  place.  Beyond 
the   first   tank    and    the   omameDtal 

farden  is  a  second  and  much  larger  one. 
t  is  entirely  supported  on  vaults,  on 
two  rows  of  massive  pillars.  The  weight 
of  the  great  body  of  water  resting  oh 
them  is  enormous,  and  altogether  it  is 
a  remarkable  work.  Below  is  a  noble 
hall  reached  by  steep  steps  down  ti)  the 
level  of  the  nver.  On  the  rt  of  the 
second  tank  is  a  fine  mosque,  the  roof 
of  which  is  supported  by  four  rows  (4 
massive  pillars.  In  two  of  the  row» 
the  pillars  are  of  teak,  and  in  two  of 
masonry.  At  the  S.W.  comer  of  this 
mosque,  in  a  little  garden,  is  the  Tomb 
of  the  saint.  It  is  of  beautiful  light- 
coloured  marble,  but  very  diminutive. 
After  leaving  the  Pan  Chakki^  drive 
4  m.  N.  to  the  Mecca  Gate  of  the  city, 
and  the  Mecca  Bridge^  which  are  prob- 
ably some  centuries  old.  The  gateway 
from  the  top  of  the  parapet  is  42  ft 
above  the  road  which  passes  over  the 
bridge.  The  flanking  towers  are  sur- 
mounted by  domes.  Inside  thegate  there 
is  a  black  stone  mosque  built  hy  Malik 
Ambar.  In  the  centre  is  a  niche  with  the 
Divine  Name,  and  "Victory  is  near." 
Above  that  is  the  KaJimah,  and  some 
verses  of  the  Koran  written  in  difficult 
Titghra  (ornamental  characters  and  used 
in  royal  signatures).  Olofle  hy  is  a  recess 
with  a  bell-shaped  ornament.  This  is 
perhaps  the  oldest  mosque  in  the  city. 


BOUTB  2.      QJkYJSa  OF  AUBANOABjLD 


67 


Thd  CtofttUMBi  (UKoM  are  2  m. 

to  the  &B.  of  the  cantonment,  and 
k  ot  near  the  Arkilla  or  citadel  built 
ly^Aurangzib.  This  spot  not  long  ago 
was  entirely  covered  with  cactus  and 
jangle,  the  haunt  of  hyenas  and  other 
wild  animals.  It  was,  however,  the 
flite  of  gentlemen's  houses  in  the  reign 
of  Aurangzib,  when  Aurangabad  was 
tike  capital  of  the  Deccan.  Sir  Salar 
Jang  ordered  the  site  to  be  cleared, 
end  when  this  was  done,  numerous 
reservoirs,  fountains,  and  other  works  of 
interest  were  discovered.  These  have 
bien  repaired,  and  the  wilderness  has 
literally  been  changed  into  a  blooming 
nrden.  On  the  high  ground  looking 
down  upon  the  Bevenue  Settlement 
Officer's  Booms,  and  on  those  of  the 
Municipality,  is  a  fine  hall,  and  in  front 
dit  is  a  beautiful  tank  of  most  pel- 
lucid water.  Behind  the  hall  is  a 
well -arranged  garden,  and  in  rear 
of  that  again  is  the  Bardhdari,  or 
QonsemmerU  House,  with  a  fine  fountain 
:in  front.  The  fa9ade  of  the  Barahdari 
lis  ornamented  with  lace-like  patterns 
i  in  white  chunam .  Only  one  archway  of 
inrangzib's  citadel  remains,  but  here 
S3  great  princes,  like  the  Maharajas 
of  Jeypore  and  Jodhpnr,  attended  the 
<ettrt  of  the  £mperor  with  thousands 
of  armed  retainers,  and  Aurangabad 
was  then  the  Delhi  of  the  South.  As 
loon  as  Aurangzib  died  the  princes 
departed,  and  Aurangabad  sank  at 
once  into  comparative  insignificance. 
The  Jninma  Mnsjid  is  on  the  right 
of  the  road,  amid  a  grove  of  some  of 
the  finest  trees  in  India.  One 
immense  Ficus  indica  stands  close  on 
the  road  and  shades  some  800  ft.  of 
it  The  Mosque  is  low  and  so  are  the 
minarets.  But  the  facade  is  rendered 
striking  by  an  ornamental  band  of 
ouving  2  ft.  broad  along  the  whole 
front  Over  the  central  niche  are  the 
Kalimah  and  inscriptions  in  Tughra 
writing  as  in  Malik  Ambar's  Mosque. 
This  moeque  is  wonderfully  well  kept, 
ud  there  is,  what  is  not  seen  anywhere 
eke,  a  net  covering  the  entire  fa^de, 
n  that  no  birds  or  other  creatures  can 
enter.  Malik  Ambar  built  half  this 
iBogque,  and  Aurangzib  the  other  half. 
TheOaves  of  Avo'angdbad  are  beyond 


the  N.  ontskirta  of  the  city  near  Rabi'a 
Durrani's  mausoleum,  from  which  it  la 
necessary  to  ride  or  walk  to  the  foot  of  the 
hiUs,  which  are  here  about  500  ft.  high. 
The  ground  at  the  base  of  the  hill  is 
very  ix)ugh,  and  intersected  with  deep 
ravines.  The  visitor  will  have  to  climb 
over  a  very  rough  and  slippery  rock 
about  250  n;.  up  to  the  caves.  He  will 
then  see  the  mausoleum  of  Babi'a  1^ 
m.  to  the  S.E.  Steps  lead  to  the 
entrance  of  Ca/oe  No,  1,  On  the  left 
of  the  door  is  Buddha  in  the  teaching 
attitude,  that  is,  holding  the  little 
finger  of  the  left  hand  oetween  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  rights 
A  Gandharva  is  flying  nearly  over 
Buddha's  head.  On  the  left  is  the 
Padmapani,  '^ lotus  holder,''  an  attend- 
ant. The  other  attendant  on  the  right 
is  Yajrapani,  "lightning  holder." 
Above  the  side  door  on  tne  left  are 
three  Buddhas,  two  of  which  are  cross- 
legged,  and  the  third  is  in  the  teaching 
attitude  with  the  usual  attendants.  On 
the  right  of  the  main  entrance  are 
Buddha  and  three  figures  similar  to 
those  on  the  left.  A  lai^  figure  of 
Buddha,  of  black  stone,  6  rt.  hij^h,  sita 
facing  the  entrance  to  the  shrine.  A 
circle  in  relief  on  the  wall  represents  a 
halo  round  his  head.  Padma  and  Vajra 
are  one  on  either  side  as  usual,  with 
Gandharvas  over  their  heads.  This 
cave  has  been  whitewashed,  and  the 
white  patch  on  the  side  of  the  hill 
can  be  seen  from  a  nule  off  in  the  plain 
below.  There  is  an  ornament  like 
prongs  round  the  archway. 

Ca-oe  No.  ;^  is  a  Ohaitya  Hall  with  c 
semicircular  roof  with  stone  ribs,  like 
the  Yis^wakarma  Cave  at  Ellora,  and 
a  triforium.  It  consists  of  a  nave  15 
ft.  long  on  either  side,  besides  a  bow  or 
curve  17  ft  long.  Near  the  end  of  the 
nave  there  is  a  dagoba  with  a  *^Tee" 
very  perfect.  The  ribs  of  the  roof  are 
13  ft.  above  the  cupola  of  the  dagoba. 
Cave  No,  ^  is  a  vihara.  The  outer 
verandah  is  ruined.  The  centre  hsJl 
is  portioned  off  as  usual  by  twelve 
pillars,  with  plain  bases,  shafts,  and 
brackets.  There  is  the  usual  vestilmle 
and  sanctuary.  The  oentral  Buddha 
is  9  ft.  6  in.  high.  On  either  side  are 
seven  worshipping  figures.    Cave  Na^ 


68 


BOUTB  2.   BOMBAY  TO  AnBANGABAB 


India 


4 18  a  small  vihara.  Baddha  is  seated 
on  a  Smghtuan  in  the  teaching  attitude. 
All  round  on  the  wall  are  smaller 
Buddhas.  The  sanctuary  is  8  ft.  4  in. 
square.  The  Vajrapani  has  a  da- 
goba  in  his  crest,  and  two  figures  of 
Buddha.  The  Nagas,  known  by  their 
snake-heads,  stand  at  the  sides  of  the 
two  attendants.  A  good  example  of 
the  dagoba  crest  or  Tee  is  in  the 
corridor  to  your  right  as  you  enter,  after 
passing  the  first  division,  about  the 
middle  in  point  of  height.  Cave  No.  6 
is  higher  up  in  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and 
is  not  worth  the  trouble  of  a  visit. 
These  caves  are,  as  is  generally  the  case, 
in  the  centre  of  a  semicircular  ridge,  as 
at  EUora.  At  the  distance  of  300  yds. 
from  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  descent 
is  reached  a  beautiful  cluster  of  trees, 
of  which  the  principal  are  two  im- 
mense specimens  of  the  Indian  fig  tree. 

There  are  many  other  places  of  interest 
to  be  seen  in  the  hills  around.  The 
journey  to  DaulcUabad  from  Awranga- 
bad^  9  m. ,  can  be  done  in  one  hour  and 
a  half  in  a  tonga  with  two  good  horses. 
3  m.  from  Aurangabad  is  the  village  of 
MUmiUia, 

It  will  be  necessary  to  arrange  before- 
hand for  a  relay  of  horses  at  Daulata- 
bad  to  get  on  to  Roza  {the  tomb),  7  m. , 
the  same  day.  Near  Daulatabad  a 
ghat  or  steep  hill  is  passed,  which  tries 
the  horses  very  much,  and  sometimes  it 
is  necessary  to  have  coolies,  or  labourers, 
to  assist  them.  Permission  must  be 
obtained  from  the  British  station  staff- 
officer  to  see  the  fort  of  Daulatabad. 

Daulatabad  (Deogiri)  a  13th  cent, 
fortress,  8  m.  from  Aurangabad,  is 
built  on  a  huge  isolated  conical  rock  of 
granite  about  500  ft.  high,  with  a  per- 
pendicular scarp  of  from  80  to  120  ft.  all 
round  the  base.  At  the  base  is  a  strag- 
gling patch  of  houses  and  huts,  which 
is  all  that  remains  of  the  native  town. 
It  is  defended  by  a  loop-holed  wall 
with  bastions  which  on  the  E.  side  joins 
the  scarp  of  the  fort.  At  the  bottom 
of  the  scarp  is  a  ditch,  before  reaching 
which  four  lines  of  wall,  including  the 
outside  wall  of  the  town,  must  be 
passed.  The  fosse  can  be  crossed 
only  in  one  place  by  a  stone  causeway, 
80  narrow  that  only  two  men  can  obtain 


a  footing  on  it  abreaat,  and  commanded 
on  the  side  near  the  fort  by  a  battle- 
mented  outwork.  The  only  means  of 
ascending  the  rock  is  through  a  narrow 
passage  hewn  in  the  solid  stone,  and 
leading  to  a  large  vault  in  the  interior. 
From  this  a  ramp  or  gallery,  gradually 
sloping  upwards,  and  also  excavated 
in  the  solid  rock,  winds  round  in  the 
interior.  The  first  part  of  the  ascent 
is  easy ;  towards  the  end  it  is  difficult 
The  height  of  the  passage  averages 
from  10  to  12  ft,  with  an  equal  breadth, 
but  it  is  so  dark  that  torches  are  requi- 
site. The  entrance  is  on  the  £.  side, 
past  2  gates  armed  with  very  formidable 
spikes  of  iron  to  resist  elephants ;  at 
the  third  gate  there  are  3  Hmdn  pillars 
and  3  pilasters  on  either  side.  Facing 
this  third  gate  is  a  bastion  56  ft.  hig£ 
It  has  a  balcony  or  gallery  with  Hindu 
curved  supports,  and  is  called  the 
Nakar  Ehana,  or  music  gallery.  It 
has  a  small  window  on  which  are 
carved  in  alto-relievo  two  leopards  like 
those  in  the  royal  shield  of  England.  I 
The  fourth  archway  faces  to  the  E.,  | 
and  beyond  it  on  the  right  is  an  old 
Hindu  temple,  with  a  broken  lamp 
tower  13  ft.  high.  On  the  left  of  the 
road  is  a  small  chaUri,  or  pavilion, 
which  is  the  dargah  of  the  Pir-i-Kados. 
Passing  along  the  side  of  a  tank,  and 
turning  to  the  1.,  there  is  an  entrance 
to  a  mosque  which  was  first  a  Jain 
temple  and  then  a  place  of  worship 
of  Kali.  Prayers  are  said  here  in 
Ramazan,  and  at  the  Bakri  'Id,  other- 
wise it  is  not  used.  On  the  rt.  of 
the  central  dome,  looking  W.,  in  a 
niche,  is  a  stone  covered  with  a  San- 
scrit inscription,  whitewashed  over  and 
placed  on  its  side.  Going  out  of  the 
temple  to  the  K.  is  a  minaret  said 
to  have  been  erected  by  the  Moham- 
medans in  commemoration  of  their 
first  capture  of  the  place.  It  was  built 
in  1435,  according  to  a  Persian  inscrip- 
tion in  one  of  the  chambers  in  the 
foundation.  From  the  window  above 
the  third  gallery  an  admirable  view  is 
obtained.  The  fifth  gateway  leads  to 
a  platform,  which  goes  partly  round 
the  hill,  and  has  on  the  rt.  a  building 
called  the  Chini  Mahal,  in  which 
Hasan    Shah,  last  kisg  of  Oolkonda^ 


ROUtB  2.       ROZA  OR  KHULDABAD 


69 


was  imprisoned  for  thirteen  years. 
Ascend  here  to  a  bastion,  on  which  is 
a  caxmon  indented  in  two  places  by 
cannon  balls.  It  is  called  Eil'ah  Shi- 
kan,  leveller  of  forts,  and  is  21  ft.  10 
in.  long,  and  the  muzzle  h£ts  a  diameter 
of  8  in.  It  was  made  by  Muhammad 
Hasan  the  Arab.  The  really  difficult 
and  in  former  times  impregnable  part 
of  the  fortress  is  n9w  entered.  Cross- 
ing a  narrow  modem  stone  bridge,  con- 
structed to  replace  the  movable  planks, 
that  formerly  were  the  only  means  of 
entering,  the  ditch  that  surrounds  the 
citadel  is  now  passed.  To  the  1.  of  the 
bridge  and  overlooking  the  moat  are 
the  extensive  ruins  of  a  Hindu  palace 
with  remains  of  some  excellent  carving 
in  wood  and  stone.  Continuing  to 
ascend  by  a  flight  of  steps  and  rock- 
cut  passages  at  the  place  where  the 
tufa  and  limestone  strata  join,  and 
eventually  emerging  from  a  tunnel,  we 
reach  a  platform,  and  look  out  over  a 

garden  with  immense  nests  of  hornets 
anging  from  the  branches  of  the  trees. 
Passing  on  we  come  to  an  opening 
covered  over  with  an  iron  shutter  20 
ft.  long  and  1  in.  thick,  made  in  ribs 
(part  of  it  U  gone),  which  in  case 
of  siege  was  heated  red  hot,  so  that 
if  assailants  could  have  penetrated  so 
far,  they  would  have  encountered  a  fiery 
roof  quite  unapproachable.  To  provide 
ventilation  for  the  fire  a  large  hole  has 
been  tunnelled  through  the  rock  close 
by.  Passing  a  gateway,  and  the  shrine 
of  the  Fakir  Sukh  Sultan,  we  come 
to  a  Barahdari,  or  pavilion,  from  which 
there  is  a  fine  view.  It  is  believed  to 
have  been  the  residence  of  the  Hindu 
Princes  of  Deogiri,  and  was  a  favourite 
summer  resort  of  the  Emperor  Shah 
Jehan  and  his  son  Aurangzib.  The 
pavilion  has  a  wide  verandah,  with  a 
precipice  of  from  100  to  200  ft.  in 
front,  and  a  view  to  Aurangabad  on 
the  E.  and  to  Roza  on  the  N.  In  the 
direction  of  Aurangabad  is  the  small 
isolated  hill  of  Chaman  Tekri,  upon 
which  are  the  ruins  of  Hindu  temples 
of  great  antiquity.  100  steps  more 
must  be  climbed  to  reach  the  Citadel 
itself,  on  a  platform  160  ft.  x  120  ft. 
At  the  W.  comer  is  a  one-gun  battery, 
60  ft  X  30  ft.     The  gun  is  19  ft  6  in. 


long,  with  a  bore  of  7  in.  On  one 
bastion  is  a  large  gun,  on  which  is  a 
Guzerati  inscription,  saying .  that  the 
funds  for  its  constraction  were  provided 
by  certain  Banias,  and  also  a  Persian 
inscription,  naming  the  gun  "Creator  of 
Storms."  Tavemier  says  that  the  gun 
on  the  highest  platform  was  raised  to  its 
place  undisr  the  directions  of  a  European 
artilleryman  in  the  service  of  the  Great 
Mogul,  who  had  been  repeatedly  refused 
leave  to  return  to  his  native  land,  but 
was  promised  it  if  he  could  mount 
the  gun  on  this  spot.  Stimulated  by  the 
promise,  he  at  last  succeeded. 

In  the  year  1293  'Alan -din,  after- 
wards Emperor  of  t)elhi,  took  the  city 
of  Deogiri  (Daulatabad).  The  citadel 
still  held  out  He  raised  the  siege  on 
receiving  an  almost  incredible  ransom, 
15,000  lbs.  of  pure  gold,  176  lbs.  of 
pearls,  50  lbs.  of  diamonds,  and  25,000 
lbs.  of  silver.  In  1338  a.d.  Muhammad 
Shah  Tughlak  attempted  to  establish 
his  capital  in  the  Deccan,  removed 
the  inhabitants  of  Delhi  to  Deogiri, 
strengthened  the  fortifications,  and 
changed  the  name  to  Daulatabad.  His 
plans,  however,  were  finally  baffled. 

The  road  (7  m.)  to  Roza  and  the 
caves  of  EUora  is  up  the  steep  hill  called 
Pipal  Ghat.  It  was  paved  by  one  of 
Aurangzib's  courtiers,  as  recorded  on 
two  pillars  about  half-way  up  the  hill, 
where  there  are  fine  views. 

Roza  (or  properly  Itauza)  or  Khul- 
dabad,  a^c  a  walled  town,  2000  ft.  above 
the  sea  (2218  inhab.)  It  is  2  m.  from 
the  caves  of  EUora  and  14  m.  N.  W.  of 
Aurangabad.  Tongas  or  light  carts  can 
be  taken  up  or  down  the  ghats.  An 
annual  Fair  is  held  here  on  7th  Feb., 
at  which  thousands  of  people  assemble. 

Roza  possesses  a  pleasant  and  tem- 
perate climate,  and  is  largely  used  as  a 
sanitarium  during  the  summer  months. 
It  is  the  Kerbela  (a  holy  shrine)  of 
the  Deccan  Mussulmans,  and  is  cele- 
brated as  the  burial-place  of  many 
distinguished  Mohammedans,  amongst 
whom  are  the  Emperor  Aurangzib  and 
his  second  son,  Azim  Shah  ;  Asaf  Jah, 
the  founder  of  the  Hyderabad  dynasty ; 
Nasir  Jung,  his  second  son ;  Malik 
Ambar,  the  powerful  minister  of  the  last 
of  the  Nizam  Shahi  kings ;  Thanah  Shah, 


70 


ttOUtl  2.      BOllfiAt  HO  AtmA^QA^AD 


tftMa 


the  ezUed  and  impruoned  king  of  Gol- 
k<mda ;  and  a  host  of  minor  celebrities. 

Roza  once  contained  a  considerable 
population,  bat  the  place  is  now  in 
great  pert  deserted.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  stone  wall  (built  by  Aurangzib) 
with  battlements  and  loopholes.  Old 
and  ruinous  mosques  and  tombs  abound 
in  every  direction  on  each  side  of  the 
road. 

Midway  between  the  K.  and  S.  gates 
of  the  city  is  the  llansoleiim  of  Aor- 
angiib.  An  ascent  of  30  yds.  leads  to 
the  domed  porch  and  gateway,  erected 
about  1760  by  a  celebrated  dancing  girl 
of  Aurangabad :  within  it  is  a  large 
quadrangle.  Som^  of  the  surrounding 
buildings  are  used  as  rest-houses  for 
travellers,  and  one  as  a  school.  In  the 
centre  of  the  S.  side  is  an  exquisite  little 
Nakar  Khana,  or  music  hall,  from  the 
galleries  of  which  music  is  played  when 
festivals  or  fairs  are  celebrated.  The 
W.  side  is  occupied  by  a  large  mosque, 
the  roof  of  which  is  supported  on  scal- 
loped arches.  Facing  the  K.  end  of 
the  mosique  is  a  small  open  gateway 
leading  into  an  inner  courtyard,  in  the 
S.E.  angle  of  which  is  the  door  of 
Aurangzib's  tomb  itself.  Above  the 
door  is  a  semicircular  screen  of  carved 
wood.  The  grave,  which  is  uncovered, 
lies  in  the  middle  of  a  stone  platform 
raised  about  half  a  foot  from  the  floor. 
It  is  overshadowed  by  the  branches  of 
a  tree  (Bukuli)  which  bears  sweet- 
smelling  flowers,  otherwise  it  is  quite 
open  to  sun  and  rain,  as  it  should  be, 
according  to  orthodox  Mohammedan 
ideas.  This  emperor,  who  was  a  man 
of  austere  piety,  is  said  before  his  death 
to  have  desired  that  his  sepulchre 
should  be  poor  and  unpretentious,  in 
accordance  with  the  tenets  of  the 
Koran.  The  tomb  is  plain  almost  to 
meanness,  from  which  it  is  only 
redeemed  by  the  beauty  of  the  delicate 
marble  screen,  5  ft.  high,  which  encloses 
the  lower  portion  on  the  W.  side.  It 
is  a  remarkable  circumstance  that  he, 
who  had  erected  such  a  magnificent 
mausoleum  over  his  wife  Rabi'a  Durani 
at  Aurangabad,  should  have  desired 
such  a  lowly  sepulchre  himself ;  but  it 
is  generally  believed  that  his  son,  Azim 
Shah,  who  was  near  him  at  the  time  of 


his  death,  and  his  courtiMs,  leHgiously 
obeyed  hia  wish  in  interring  his  remains 
in  this  manner,  and  in  a  place  sanctified 
by  the  tomb  of  a  celebrated  Moham- 
medan saint.  He  is  said  to  have 
"desired  in  his  wiU  that  his  fiinetal 
expenses  should  be  defrayed  from  the 
proceeds  of  caps  which  he  had  quilted 
and  sold,  and  this  amount  did  not 
exceed  10s.  ;  while  the  proceeds  of  the 
sale  of  his  copies  of  the  Koran,  805  n., 
were  distributed  to  the  poor." 

Fifteen  or  twenty  paces  to  the  E.  of 
Aurangzib's  tomb  is  a  small  (quadran- 
gular enclosure  of  marble,  within  which 
are  three  graves,  the  one  on  the  right 
being  that  of  the  daughter  of  the 
Mohammedan  saint  buned  close  by; 
the  next  that  of  Azim  Shah,  Aurang- 
zib's second  son,  attached  to  which  is 
a  small  marble  headstone  carved  with 
floral  devices ;  and  the  one  beyond  is 
the  grave  of  Azim  Shah*8  wife.  The 
whole  is  surrounded  by  a  plain  screen 
of  white  marble.  Midway  between 
these  tombs  and  that  of  Aurangzib  is 
the  Mausoleum  of  Sayyad  Zainu-diny 
on  the  E.  side  of  which  are  inscribed  a 
number  of  verses  from  the  Koran,  and 
the  date  of  the  Saiyad's  death,  1370  A.D. 
This  tomb,  however,  was  erected  many 
years  after  that  period  by  one  of  his 
disciples.  The  doors  of  the  shrine 
are  inlaid  with  silver  plates  of  some 
thickness ;  the  steps  below  it  are  em- 
bellished with  a  number  of  curiously  cut 
and  polished  stones,  said  to  have  been 
brought  here  from  time  to  time  by 
fakirs  and  other  religious  devotees  of 
the  shrine.  A  little  distance  to  the 
rear  of  this  tomb  is  a  small  room  built 
in  an  angle  of  the  courtyard  wall,  which 
is  said  to  contain  the  robe  of  the 
Prophet  Mohammed.  It  is  carefully 
preserved  under  lock  and  key,  and  is 
only  exhibited  to  the  gaze  of  the 
faithful  once  a  year,  the  12th  Rabiu-1- 
Awal  (March). 

Opposite  the  tombs  of  Aurangzib 
and  his  son  is  that  of  Asaf  Jah,  the 
first  of  the  Nizams  of  Hyderabad. 
The  entrance  is  through  a  large  quad- 
rangle, having  open-fronted  buildings 
on  all  sides,  ana  a  Nakar  Khana,  or 
music  hall,  at  the  E.  end.  The  W. 
end  is  used  as  a  school  for  instruction 


ttOUTE  2.      THE  CAVES  OF  ELLORA 


71 


in  the  Koran.  A  door  at  this  end 
gives  access  to  an  inner  courtyard  in 
whkh  are  a  number  of  ffravjes.  Facing 
the  entrance  are  the  snrines  of  Asaf 
Jah  and  one  of  his  consorts,  surrounded 
by  a  lattice  screen  of  red  sandstone, 
and  that  of  Sayyad  Haarat  Burhanu- 
din^  a  saint  of  great  renown  amongst 
Mohammedans,  who  died  at  Boza, 
1344.  The  Sayyad  is  said  to  have 
left  Upper  India  with  1400  discii)les 
a  few  years  before  the  first  invasion 
of  the  Deccan  by  'Alau-din,  1294, 
for  the  purpose  of  propagating  the 
tenets  of  his  faith  amongst  the  Hindus 
of  this  portion  of  India.  Deposited 
within  tne  shrine  are  some  hairs  of  the 
Prophet's  beard,  which  are  said  to  in- 
crease yearly  in  number.  The  shrine, 
however,  boasts  of  a  still  more  remark- 
able treasure,  which  is  described  by  the 
attendants  as  follows :  *  *  For  some  years 
after  its  erection,  the  disciples  of  the 
Saiyad  were  without  means  to  keej)  it 
in  repair,  or  to  provide  themselves  with 
the  necessaries  of  life.  Supplication 
to  the  deceased  saint,  however,  pro- 
duced the  following  remarkable  pheno- 
menon. During  the  night  small  trees 
of  silver  grew  up  through  the  pavement 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  shrine,  and  were 
regularly  removed  every  morning  by 
the  attendants.  They  were  broken  up 
and  sold  in  the  bazaars,  and  with  the 
proceeds  thus  realised  the  Saiyad 's  dis- 
ciples were  enabled  to  maintain  the 
shrine  and  themselves.  This  remark- 
able production  of  silver  is  said  to  have 
continued  for  a  number  of  years,  until 
a  small  jagir  was  allotted  to  the  shrine, 
since  which  time  the  pavement  has 
only  yielded  small  buds  of  the  precious 
metal,  which  appear  on  the  surface  at 
night  and  recede  during  the  day."  In 
proof  of  these  assertions  the  visitor  is 
shown  a  number  of  small  lumps  of 
silver  on  the  surface  of  the  pavement. 
The  shrine  doors  are  covered  with  plates 
of  white  and  yellow  metal  wrought  into 
designs  of  trees  and  flowers. 

Small  game  is  plentiful  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. 

24  m.  from  Rozais  the  native  village 
of  Knnhur,  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Sinna.  20  m.  farther  is  Chalisgaon, 
on  the  G.  I.  P.  Rly. 


The  Caves  of  Bliora.' 
Ellora  {Elura  or  VertU),  «  about  14 
m.  from  Boza,  a  village  in  the  Nizam's 
Dominions.  Distant  S. W.  from  Ajirani- 
gabad  14  m.,  from  Drulatabad  7  m. 
Pop.  742.    The  village  is  partly  walled^ 
ana  contains  a  Monammedan  shrine 
famed  throughout  the  Deccan  for  its 
marvellous  healing  powers.    Ellora  is 
famous  for  its  highly  remarkable  series  of 
rock-caves  and  temples,  situated  in  a 
crescent-shaped  hill  or  plateau.  They  are 
first  mentioned  by  Ma'sudi,  the  Arabic 
geographer  of  the  10th  cent.,  but  merely 
as  a  celebrated  place  of  pilgrimage.  They 
were  visited  in  1306  hy  Ala-ud-din  or 
his  generals,  when,  as  Dow  {History  of 
Hindostan)  relates,  the  capture  occurred 
of  a  Hindu  princess  of  Guzerat,  who  was 
hero  in  concealment  from  the  Moham- 
medans, but  was  afterwards  carried  to 
Delhi  and  married  to  the  emperor's  son. 
Contrasting    the    caves    of    Ellora 
and    Ajanta,    Mr.   Fergusson  writes  j 
**  Architecturally    the    Ellora    caves 
differ  from  those  of  Ajanta,  fax  con- 
sequence of  their  being  excavated  in 
the  sloping  sides  of  a  hill,  and  not 
in  a  nearly  perpendicular  cliff.    From 
this  formation  of  the  ground  almost  all 
the  caves  at  Ellora  have  courtyards  in 
front  of  them.      Frequently  also  an 
outer  wall  of  rock,  with  an  entrance 
through  it,  left  standing,  so  that  the 
caves  are  not  generally  seen  from  the 
outside  at  all,  and  a  person  might  pass 
along  their  front  withont  being  aware 
of  their  existence,  unless  warned  of  the 
fact."    The  caves  extend  along  the  face 
of  the  hill  for  1 J  m.     They  are  divided 
into  three  distinct  series,  the  Buddhist, 
the  Brahmanical,  and  the  Jain,  and  are 
arranged  almost  chronolomcally. 

"The  caves,"  writes  Dr.  Burgess, 
•*  are  excavated  in  the  face  of  a  hill,  or 
rather  the  scarp  of  a  large  plateau,  and 
run  nearly  N.  and  S.  for  about  IJ  m., 
the  scarp  at  each  end  of  this  interval 
throwing  out  a  horn  towards  the  W. 
It  is  where  the  scarp  at  the  S.  end 
begins  to  turn  to  the  W.  that  the 
earliest  caves — a  group  of  Buddhistic 
ones — are  situated,  and  in  the  N.  horn 
is  the  Indra  Sabha  or  Jain  group,  at 
1  Ellora  is  45  m.  from  Nandgaon  sta.  The 
road  passes  (9  m.)  Deqgaon  (D.B.),  see  p.  66. 


72 


BOUTE  2.   BOMBAT  TO  AUBANaASAB 


Iniia 


the  other  extremity  of  the  series.  Tlie 
ascent  of  the  ghat  passes  up  the  S.  side 
of  Eailas,  the  third  of  the  Brahmanical 
group,  and  over  the  roof  of  the  Das 
Avatar,  the  second  of  them.  Sixteen 
caves  Ue  to  the  S.  of  Eailas,  and  nearly 
as  many  to  the  N.,  hut  the  latter  are 
flcattereid  over  a  greater  distance. 
"Most  of  the  caves  have  got  dis- 


are  5  at  the  extreme  N.  There  are 
also  some  cells  and  a  colossal  Jain  image 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  same  spur  in 
which  is  the  Indra  Sahha."  Amongst 
the  Buddhist,  the  most  important  are 
the  Dherwara,  the  oldest ;  the  Vish- 
wakarma,  or  Carpenter's  Cav&  a 
Chaitya  with  a  ribbed  roof,  a  parallelo- 
gram about  85  ft.  long ;  the  Don  Tal  (2 


The  Dherwara. 


tinguishing  names  from  the  Brahman s ; 
but  it  may  be  quite  as  convenient,  for 
the  sake  of  reference,  to  number  them 
from  S.  to  N.,  beginning  with  the 
Buddhistic  caves,  of  which  there  are 
12,  and  passing  through  the  Brah- 
manical series,  of  which  17  are  below 
the  brow  of  the  scarp,  and  a  large 
number  of  smaller  ones  above,  and  end- 
ing with  the  Jain  caves,  of  which  there 


The  Kailas. 


storeyed,  really  3) ;  and  Tin  Tal  (3 
storeys).  The  Das  Avatar  is  the  oldest 
of  the  Brahmanical  series.  The  great 
hall  is  143  ft.  long,  and  is  supported 
by  46  pillars. 

The  most  splendid  of  the  whole  series 
is  the  Eailas,  a  perfect  Dravidian 
temple,  complete  in  all  its  parts,  char- 
acterised by  Fergusson  as  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  and  interesting  menu- 


ROUTE  3.      BHUSAWAL 


73 


ments  of  architectural  art  in  India. 
"  It  is  not  a  mere  interior  chamber  cut 
in  the  rock,"  continues  Mr.  Fergusson, 
**  but  is  a  model  of  a  complete  temple 
such  as  might  have  been  erected  on  the 
plain.  In  other  words,  the  rock  has 
been  cut  away  externally  as  well  as 
internally."  This  temple  is  said  to 
have  been  excavated  about  the  8th  cent 
by  Raja  Elu  of  Ellichpur—but  the  style 
and  other  evidence  point  to  its  having 
been  constructed  in  the  reign  of  Danti- 
durga,  the  Rashtrakuta  king,  730-765 
A.  D.  Dedicated  to  Shiva,  itis  surrounded 
with  figures  also  of  Vishnu  and  the 
whole  Puranic  pantheon.  The  interior, 
and  parts  at  least,  of  the  exterior  have 
been  painted.  Unlike  any  of  the  pre- 
ceding cave-temples,  Eailas  is  a  great 
monoUthic  temple,  isolated  from  sur- 
rounding rock,  and  profusely  carved  out- 
side as  well  as  in.  It  stands  in  a  great 
court  averagiug  164  ft.  wide  by  276  ft. 
long  at  the  level  of  the  base,  entirely  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  with  a  scarp 
107  ft  high  at  the  back.  In  front  of 
this  court  a  curtain  has  been  left,  carved 
on  the  outside  with  the  monstrous  forms 
of  Shiva  and  Vishnu  and  their  congeners, 
and  with  rooms  inside  it.  It  is  pierced 
in  the  centre  by  an  entrance  passage 
with  rooms  on  each  side.  Passing  this, 
the  visitor  is  met  by  a  large  sculpture 
of  Lakshmi  over  the  lotuses,  with  her 
attendant  elephants.  As  we  enter,  to 
right  and  left  is  the  front  portion  of 
the  court,  which  is  a  few  feet  lower 
than  the  rest,  and  at  the  N.  and  S.  ends 
of  which  stand  two  ^gantic  elephants, 
— that  on  the  S.  much  mutilated.  Turn- 
ing again  to  the  E.  and  ascending  a  few 
steps,  we  enter  the  great  hall  of  the 
temple.  In  front  of  it,  and  connected 
by  a  bridge,  is  a  mandapam  for  the  Nandi 
BuU,  and  on  each  side  of  this  mandapam 
stands  a  pillar,  45  ft  high.  On  the  N. 
side  of  the  court  is  a  series  of  excava- 
tions in  two  tiers  with  finely  sculptured 
pillars.  Another  magnificent  Brahmani- 
cal  cave  temple  is  that  of  Dumar  Lena, 
measuring  150  ft  each  way.  "  One  of 
the  finest  Hindu  excavations  existing." 
From  here  a  footpath  leads  to 
(1  m.)  the  fine  series  of  Jain  caves,  the 
Jagannath,  and  Indra  Sabhas,  at  the 
N.  end. 


ROUTE    8. 

Bhubawal  via  Nagpuu  to  Calcutta. 
(G.I.P.  and  Bengal-Nagpur  Rlys.) 

By  this  line  a  new  route  from 
Bombay  to  Calcutta  (1278  m.,  or  about 
125  m.  shorter  than  any  other)  is 
opened  up.  It  taps  an  immense 
.  territory  of  the  Central  Provinces  which 
has  hitherto  been  inaccessible  to  ex- 
ternal trade,  and  provides  an  outlet  for 
the  great  wheat  and  seed -producing 
district  of  (Mattisgarh,  "the  granary 
of  India. "  The  scenery  in  parts  of  the 
line,  notably  at  Dare  iTcwsa,  Dongar- 
garhf  and  SarancUit  is  very  fine. 

The  route  from  Bombay  to 

276  m.  Bhusawal  June  (R.)  is  de- 
scribed in  Rte.  1. 

Soon  after  leaving  Bhusawal  the 
traveller  enters  the  Province  of  Berar 
(pop.  2,896,670),  which  continues 
almost  all  the  way  to  Nagpur.  It 
belongs  to  H.H.  the  Nizam,  but  was 
assigned  to  the  British  by  a  treaty,  in 
1853,  for  the  support  of  the  Hyderabad 
Contingent  force.  This  treaty  was 
remodelled  in  December  1860,  by 
which,  for  the  Nizam's  services  in  the 
Mutiny  of  1857,  his  debt  of  50  lakhs 
was  cancelled,  the  districts  of  Dharaseo 
and  the  Raichur  Doab  were  restored, 
and  the  confiscated  territory  of  Shola- 
pur  was  ceded  to  him. 

The  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  struck 
with  the  fertility  of  this  Province, 
which  is  one  of  the  richest  and  most 
extensive  cotton-fields  in  India.  The 
soil  is  black  loam  overlying  basalt. 
The  rainfall  is  regular  and  abundant, 
and  at  harvest-time  the  whole  surface 
is  one  immense  waving  sheet  of  crops. 
The  districts  into  which  Berar  is 
divided  are  Akola,  Amraoti,  Elichpur, 
Buldana,  Wun,  and  Basim. 

333  m.  Jalamb  junc.  sta. 

[Branch  8  m.  S.  to  Khamgaon  sta., 


74 


ttOUTB  3.      BHtTBAWAL  tO  CALOJ'MA 


India 


where  there  is  an  important  ootton- 
mart.] 

840  m.  Sheagaon  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

363  m.  Akola  sta.  is  the  head- 
auarters  station  of  the  West  Berar 
district  of  that  name. 

[A  road  from  Akola  runs  S.  72  m.  to 
the  important  town  and  military  station 
of  Hingoli.  About  30  m.  from  Akola 
is  the  town  of  Mekar,  and  16  m.  S.  of 
Mekar  is  a  celebrated  soda  lake  called 
LonaVf  formed  in  the  crater  of  an  extinct 
volcano.  The  salt  is  used  for  washinc 
and  dyeing  purposes,  and  is  exported 
in  considerable  quantities.  The  area 
of  the  Akola  district  is  2659  sq.  m., 
pop.  592,800.] 

413  m.  Badnera  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

[Br.  6  m.  N.  to  Amraoti  sta.  (R.), 
D.B.  Both  places  have  cotton-marts, 
and  there  are  cotton-gins  and  ware- 
houses. Amraoti  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  district  of  that  name,  and  has 
the  usual  public  offices  attached  to  a 
civil  station.] 

472  m.  Wardha  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
The  chief  town  of  the  most  westerly 
district  of  the  Central  Provinces.  The 
place  is  auite  modern,  dating  only  from 
1866,  ana  is  a  considerable  cotton-mart. 
Here  is  a  Medical  Mission  of  the  Free 
Church  of  Scotland,  with  fine  hospital 
and  leper  asylum. 

[Branch  S.  to  the  Warora  coal-fields. 

21  m.  Hinganghat  sta.,  D.B.,  a  very 
important  old  cotton-market. 

45  m.  Warora  terminus  sta.,  a 
town  in  the  Chanda  district  of  the 
Central  Provinces,  and  a  considerable 
cotton -mart  Close  to  Warora  are 
mines  of  fairly  good  coal ;  3000  tons  a 
month  have  been  supplied  to  the  rail- 
way, the  yearly  out-turn  has  been 
about  100,000  tons. 

30  m.  S.E.  of  Warora  is  Chanda, 
D.B.,  reached  by  a  good  road.  This 
place  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Chanda 
district.  Too  far  off  the  main  lines  of 
communication  to  be  visited  by  hurried 


travellers,  it  is  yet  a  most  attractive 
spot.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a 
continuous  wall  of  cut  stone  5^  m.  in 
circuit  Inside  the  walls  are  detached  ; 
villages  and  cultivated  fields.  The  I 
folia^  is  beautiful  and  there  are  ex- 
tensive forest -preserves  near.  The 
tombs  of  the  Gond  kings,  and  the 
temples  of  Achaleswar,  Maha  Kali,  and 
Murlidhar,  are  all  worth  a  visit  At 
Ldlpety  in  the  town,  a  large  space  is 
covered  with  monolith  figures  otgigan- 
tic  size  which  appear  to  have  been  pre- 
pared for  some  great  temple  never 
erected.  Cunningham,  in  reviewing 
the  travels  of  Hiouen  Thsang  in  South- 
ern India  in  the  7th  century,  con- 
siders that  Chanda  has  a  strong  claim 
to  be  considered  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Maha-Eosala.  Here  a 
traveller  would  see  the  Gonds,  a  people 
differing  from  the  surrounding  popula- 
tion in  religion,  language,  and  race.] 

520  m.  Nagpiir,30c  is  the  capital 
of  the  Central  Provinces,  which  have  an 
area  of  112,912  s(^m.  (pop.  10,761,630). 
The  district  of  Nagpur  itself  has  an 
area  of  3786  sq.  m.  Among  the  in- 
habitants are  upwards  of  2,000,000  of 
aborigines  called  Gonds ;  and  of  these  the 
hill-tribes  have  black  skins,  flat  noses, 
and  thick  lips.  A  cloth  round  the  waist 
is  their  chief  garment.  The  religions 
belief  varies  from  village  to  viUage. 
Nearly  all  worship  the  cholera  and  Sie 
small-pox,  and  there  are  traces  of  serpent 
worship.  • 

The  ancient  history  of  the  Province 
is  very  obscure.  In  the  5th  century 
A.D.  a  race  of  foreigners,  YavanaSt 
ruled  from  the  Satpura  plateau,  and 
between  the  lOtli  and  13th  centuries, 
Rajputs  of  the  Lunar  Race  governed 
the  country  round  Jubbnlpore,  and  the 
Pramars  of  Malwa  ruled  territory 
S.  of  the  Satpuras.  The  Chanda 
dynasty  of  Gonds  reigned  probably 
as  early  as  the  10th  or  11th  cen- 
tury, and  the  Hailiayas  of  Chattis- 
garh  were  of  ancient  date.  In  1398 
A.D.  there  were  princes  reigning  at 
Kherla,  on  the  Satpura  plateau,  and 
Ferishtah  says  **  they  possessed  all  the 
hills  of  Gondwana.*'  In  1467  they 
were    conquered     by    the     Bahmani 


ttOt^TE  3.      NAGt^t^tt 


?6 


kinjfs.  The  next  century  the  Gonds 
again  rose  to  power,  but  in  1741  the 
Maratha  Bhonslas  invaded  the  country. 
In  1818  the  English  annexed  the 
Saugar  and  Nerbudda  territories,  and 
In  1853  Kagpur  and  other  districts, 
whicii  in  1861  Lord  Canning  formed 
into  the  Central  Provinces. 

Nagpur,  situated  on  the  small  stream 
called  the  Nag  (pop.  117,900),  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  administration  of 
the  Central  Provinces.  The  munici- 
pality includes,  besides  the  city,  the 
suburb  and  the  European  station  of 
Sitdbaldi,  In  the  centre  stands  Sita- 
baldi  Hill,  crowned  with  the  fort  of  the 
same  name,  which  commands  a  Une 
view.  Below  to  the  N.  and  W.  is  the 
prettily  wooded  civil  station  of  Nagpur. 
Beyond  to  the  N.  are  the  military  lines 
and  bazaars,  and  beyond  these  the 
suburb  of  Takli,  once  the  headquarters 
of  the  Nagpur  Irregular  force.  There 
is  a  fine  new  Residency  on  Takli  Hill, 
but  the  Chief  Commissioner  resides 
chiefly  at  Pachmari  on  the  Satpuras. 
Close  under  the  S.  side  of  the  hill  is  the 
native  suburb  of  Sitabaldi.  Below  the 
glacis  is  the  railway  station  ;  beyond  is 
the  Jumma  Talao,  a  large  tank ;  and 
more  to  the  E.  is  the  city,  hidden  in 
foliage.  Three  great  roads  lead  from  the 
European  station  to  the  city,  one  on 
I  the  N.  and  one  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
tank  ;  the  third,  which  is  the  most  N. 
of  all,  crosses  the  railway  by  a  bridge 
to  the  N.  of  the  station.  Besides  the 
Jumma  Talao,  there  are  two  other  fine 
I  tanks,  the  Ambajhari  and  Telingkheri, 
!     in    the    neighbourhood.      The    chief 

fftrdens  are  the  Maharaj  Bagh,  in 
itabaldi,  the  Tulsi  Bagh,  inside  the 
!  city,  and  the  Paldi,  Shakardara,  Sona- 
gaon,  and  Telingkheri  in  the  suburbs. 
The  traveller  wUl  remember  that 
Kagpur  is  famous  for  its  delicious 
oranges,  large  numbers  of  which  are 
exported  during  the  first  three  months 
of  the  year.  His  first  visit  may  be  to  the 
Sitahaldi  HilL  Here,  on  the  26th  and 
27th  of  November  1817,  the  Maratha 
troops  of  the  Bhonsla  Raja,  Apa  Sahib, 
attacked  the  Resident,  Mr.,  afterwards 
Sir  R.  Jenkins,  and  the  few  troops  he 
had  been  able  to  assemble.  After  a 
desperate  engagement,   during  which 


the  Marathi  at  one  tioae  got  possession 
of  one  of  the  two  eminences  of  the 
Sitabaldi  HiU,  the  English  were  at 
length  victorious.  The  Resident  was 
then  joined  by  fresh  troop,  and  de- 
manded the  surrender  of  the  Raja  and 
the  disbandment  of  his  army.  Thib 
latter  point  was  only  obtained  after  a 
second  battle,  in  which  the  Marathi 
were  completely  routed. 

Apa  Sahib  escaped  and  died  in  exile. 
A  child  was  raised  to  the  throne  under 
the  title  of  Raghoji  III.,  and  on  his 
death,  in  1853,  the  country  was  annexed 
by  the  British.  On  the  13th  of  June 
1857  the  native  cavalry  conspired  with 
the  Mohammedans  of  the  city  to  rise 
against  the  British,  but  the  infantry 
continued  loyal,  and  arrested  the  native 
officers  sent  to  them  by  the  cavalry. 

The  Bhonsla  Palace^  built  of  black 
basalt  and  richly  ornamented  with 
wood  carving,  was  burnt  down  in  1864, 
only  the  Nakar  Khana,  or  music  hall, 
remains. 

Thence  the  traveller  may  proceed  to 
the  Tombs  of  the  Bhonsla  Itajas,  in 
the  Shukrawari  quarter,  to  the  S.  of 
the  citj.  The  markets  are  in  the 
Gurganj  Square  and  Gachi  Pagar,  and 
take  place  once  a  week  in  each.  In 
the  city  are  also  the  Small  Cause  Court 
and  the  Magistrate's  Court.  The  Cen- 
tral Jail  is  an  important  institution. 

The  old  Residency,  where  the  Chief 
Commissioner  fonnerly  resided,  and 
the  Secretariat,  are  at  Sitabaldi.  There 
is  a  small  detachment  from  the  English 
regiment  at  Kampti  garrisoning  the 
fort,  and  there  are  also  the  head- 
quarters and  wing  of  a  N.I.  regiment. 

The  city  and  civil  station  are  well 
supplied  with  water  from  the  Ambalhari 
reservoir,  and  the  station  roads  are  lined 
with  beautiful  trees.  There  is  a  hand- 
some English  church,  and  a  large 
Roman  Catholic  cathedral  and  school, 
and  an  important  branch  of  the  Missions 
of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  with 
the  Hislop  College,  two  hospitals  for 
men  and  women,  and  a  fine  Marathi 
church. 

The  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway 
terminates  at  Nagpur,  and  from  this 
point  E.  towards  Calcutta  the  line 
belongs  to  l^e  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway. 


76 


ftOUTE  3.      BtttJSAWAL  HO  CALOtfTTA 


India 


529  m.  Kampti  D.B.  A  large  town 
and  military  cantonment  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Eanhan  riyer,  which  is 
spanned  by  a  handsome  stone  bridge  that 
cost  £90, 000.  Close  to  it  is  the  railway 
bridge,  a  fine  iron  sti-uctnre  that  cost 
£100,000.  Pop.  51,000.  Kampti  dates 
only  from  the  establishment  of  the 
military  station  in  1821,  and  for  about 
fifty  years  it  was  governed  entirely  by 
the  military  authorities.  The  neigh- 
bouring city  of  Nagpur  during  the 
greater  part  of  this  time  was  the  capital 
of  the  state,  and  the  residence  of  a 
Maratha  court.  No  more  striking  evi- 
dence could  be  adduced  of  the  just  and 
moderate  tone  of  the  army  administra- 
tion than  the  rapid  growth  of  this  place. 
The  roads  are  broad  and  well  laid  out. 
The  English  church  was  built  in 
1833,  and  there  is  a  highly  useful 
Roman  Catholic  establishment  of  the 
order  of  St.  Francis  de  Sales  with  a 
church  and  convent,  where  good  educa- 
tion is  given  to  a  class  of  children  who 
would  otherwise  be  neglected.  There 
are  5  mosques  and  70  Hindu  temples. 

559  m.  Bhandara  Roadsta.,,D.B.,  is 
about  6im.  from  the  town,  which  is  close 
to  the  Wainganga  river.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  a  district  of  the  same  name, 
and  contains  the  usual  public  offices, 
schools,  and  institutions.  Pop.  11,000. 
Between  Bhandara  and  Nagpur  few  of 
the  richer  natives  ever  mount  a  horse, 
they  ride  astride  on  the  pole  of  a  very 
light  two-wheeled  ox-cart  called  a  ringi. 
The  oxen  for  these  carts  are  a  special 
breed,  very  small  and  active,  and  cap- 
able of  sustaining  a  trot  ec^xial  to  the 
pace  of  an  ordinary  carriage  horse. 
Here  is  the  R.  Barbour  Medicfd  Mission 
of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland. 
615  m.  Amgaon  sta.  (B.) 
From  624  m.  Salekasa  sta.  to 
647  m.  Dongargarh  sta.  (R.),  the  line 
passes  through  hills  and  heavy  bamboo 
jungles,  and  through  a  pass  with  a 
tunnel  at  the  summit.  The  jungle 
near  this  tunnel  is  famous  for  gener- 
ally having  a  man-eating  tiger  in  it. 
During  the  construction  of  the  railway 
a  large  number  of  natives  were  killed 
here,  and  victims  have  more  recently 
been  carried  off.     Large  game  of  all 


sorts  abounds.  Dongargarh  is  a  large 
engine-changing  station,  with  a  con- 
siderable European  population  con- 
nected with  the  railway.  The  ruins  of 
a  fort  are  on  the  N.E.  face  of  a  detached 
hill,  some  4  m.  in  circuit.  Inside  the 
fortified  space  there  are  tanks  for  water 
supply,  but  no  buildings. 

708  m.  Baipnr  sta.  The  chief  town 
of  a  district  of  the  same  name,  the 
residence  of  the  commissioner  of  ChaUis- 
ga/rhy  and  a  small  military  cantonment 
The  usual  offices  will  be  found.  The 
old  town  was  to  the  S.  and  W.  of  the 
present  one,  which  was  laid  out  hy 
Colonel  Agnew  in  1830.  The  pop.  is 
25,000.  The  town  is  surrounded  by 
tanks  and  groves  of  trees,  which  form 
its  attraction.  The  Fort  was  built  by 
Raja  Bhuraneswar  Sing  in  1460,  and 
in  its  time  was  a  very  strong  work. 
Its  outer  wall  is  nearly  1  m.  in  cir- 
cumference. Large  quantities  of  stone 
were  used  in  its  construction,  though 
no  quarries  exist  in  the  neighbourhood. 
The  Burha  Tank,  on  the  S.,  the  same 
age  as  the  Fort,  covered  nearly  1  sq.  m. 
In  later  improvements  it  has  oeen 
reduced  in  extent.  The  public  gardens 
are  on  its  E.  shore.  The  Maharaj 
Tank  was  constructed  by  a  revenue 
farmer  in  the  times  of  the  Marathas, 
and  close  to  it  is  the  temple  of  Ram- 
chandra,  built  in  1775  by  Bhimbaji 
Bhonsla.  There  are  several  other  reser- 
voirs in  the  suburbs  ;  and  in  the  centre 
of  the  town  is  the  Kankali  tankf  con- 
structed of  stone  throughout,  at  the 
close  of  the  17th  century. 

776  m.  Bilaspur  junc.  sta.  (R.). 
This  place  is  a  large  engine-changing 
centre. 

[Branch  N.  W.  through  a  mountainous 
district  and  the  coal-fields  of  Umaria 
to  198  m.  Eatni  junc.  on  the  E.  I.  Bly. 
(p.  36).  This  branch  passes  at  Pendra 
sta.,  under  the  Amarkantak  plateau 
(4000  ft.)  where  the  Nerbudda  has  its 
source.  There  are  several  temples 
and  a  **khund"  or  reservoir  enclos- 
ing the  head  spring.  The  plateau 
is  frequented  by  the  "tirath  bdsis," 
and  other  pilgrims.] 

The  traveller  enters  the  province  of 
Chattisgarh  about  Amgaon,  95  m.  £. 
of  Nagpur,  and  continues  in  it  to  abont 


ROUTE  3.       RATANPUB 


77 


Ratearh  station,  at  884  m.  The  people 
of  this  country  still  consider  themselves 
a  separate  nationality,  and  always  caU 
themselves  ChaUisgaris,  The  Rajas 
of  Batanpur  ruled  originally  over  their 
36  forts,  each  the  chief  place  of  a 
district ;  but  about  750  A.D.,  the 
kingdom  was  divided  into  two,  and  a 
separate  raja  ruled  in  Raipur.  Ealyan 
Si^i,  who  ruled  between  1536  and 
1573,  went  to  Delhi  and  made  his 
submission  to  the  great  Akbar,  and 
this  prudent  conduct  resulted  in  the 
Haihaya  rulers  retaining  their  country 
mitil  the  Maratha  invasion  in  1740. 

The  district,  which  is  regarded  as 
one  of  the  richest  corn-growing  countries 
in  the  world,  and  is  known  as  the 
"granary  of  India,"  is  in  the  shape  of 
a  vast  amphitheatre  opening  to  the  S. 
on  the  plains  of  Raipur,  but  on  every 
other  side  surrounded  by  tiers  of  hills. 
About  15  m.  E.  of  Bilaspur  is  the 
precipitous  hill  ofDahla^  2600  ft.  high, 
affording  a  grand  view. 

[12  m.  N.  of  Bilaspur  is  Batanpur, 
or  Ruttunpur,  the  old  capital  of  the 
formerly  self-contained  kingdom  of 
ChaiHsgarh,  or  the  S6  Forts,  in  which 
is  included  the  districts  of  Raipur  and 
Bilaspur.  The  town  lies  in  a  hollow 
surrounded  by  the  Eenda  hills.  It 
ceased  to  be  the  capital  in  1787,  but 
the  crumbling  arches  of  the  old  fort, 
the  broken  walls  of  the  ancient  palace, 
and  the  half-fiUed-up  moat  which  sur- 
rounded the  city,  recall  its  former  con- 
dition. The  population  is  under  6000. 
The  Brahmans  of  Ratanpur  are  still  the 
leaders  of  their  class  all  over  Chattis- 
garh.  The  town  covers  an  area  of  15 
sq.  m.,  and  contains  within  its  limits 
a  forest  of  mango  trees,  with  numerous 
tanks  and  temples  scattered  amidst 
their  shade.  Ailized  up  with  temples, 
great  blocks  of  masonry  of  uniform 
shape  commemorate  distinguished  satis 
(suttees).  The  most  prominent  of  these 
is  near  the  old  fort,  where  a  large  build- 
ing records  that  there  in  the  middle  of 
the  17th  century  20  ranis  of  Raja 
Lakshman  Sahi  devoutly  fulfilled  the 
duty  of  self-immolation.  Kota  sta.  on 
the  Eatni  branch  is  a  few  miles  from 
Batanpur.] 

Before  reaching 


809  m.  Champa  sta.  the  Hasdu  river 
is  crossed.  The  stream  cuts  the  coal- 
fields of  Eorba,  some  20  m.  N.  of  the 
railway ;  and  in  the  jungles  on  its  banks 
are  to  be  found  some  of  the  few  herds 
of  wild  elephants  still  roaming  through 
the  forests  of  the  Central  Provinces. 

The  line  continues  E.  through  a 
thinly-inhabited  flat  country  to 

890  m.  Belpahan  sta.,  on  leaving 
which  the  Eeb  river,  which  flows  S. 
into  the  Mahanadi  river,  is  crossed  by 
a  considerable  bridge.  The  scenery  at 
the  crossing  is  very  fine. 

903  m.  Iharsngnda  juno.  sta. 

[Branch  for  the  civil  and  military 
station  of  Sambalpnr,  distant  30  m. ; 
whence,  at  different  times,  diamonds 
have  been  exported  to  a  considerable 
value.  They  are  said  to  be  found  in  the 
bed  of  the  Mahanadi  up-stream  from 
the  town,  but  whether  the  source  of 
supply  is  the  Mahanadi  or  the  Eeb 
river  is  perhaps  not  clearly  known.] 

From  Tharsuguda  the  railway  takes 
a  N.E.  course,  and  continuing  through 
a  well-inhabited  plain  country  to 

916  m.  Bagdehi  sta.,  it  enters  the 
hills,  in  which  it  continues  until  the 
plains  of  Bengal  are  reached. 

936  m.  QarpoB  sta.  Hereabouts  the 
forests  are  very  dense,  and  in  the  rainy 
season  they  are  largely  resorted  to  by 
wild  elephants.     Between 

947  m.  Eoumarkela  sta.  and 

945  m.  Bourkela  sta.  near  Kalunga, 
the  Brahmini  river  is  crossed.  The 
natives  here  earn  a  very  fair  living  by 
washing  the  river-sands  for  gold.  The 
view  up-stream  is  very  grand  when  the 
river  is  in  flood. 

991  m.  Honarpnr  sta.  Here  the 
railway  enters  the  Saranda  forests, 
which  contain  some  of  the  finest  Sal 
trees  {Shorea  rokiista)  in  India.  The 
line  winds  round  hills,  passing  close 
under  them  on  both  sides.  The  sum- 
mit of  the  range  is  reached  through  a 
heavy  cutting  leading  into  a  tunnel. 
During  the  construction  of  the  Bengal- 
Nagpur  Railway  through  these  forests 
and  heavy  jungles  very  great  diflSculty 
was  experienced  in  procuring  labour, 
as  they  have  a  very  bad  reputation  for 
unhealthiness      The  few  inhabitants 


76 


BOUTE  4.      KHANDWA  TO  AJMSRS 


India 


of  tlieM  wildB  are  nearly  all  KoU,  an 
aboriginal  race. 

1015  m.  Sonna  sta.  ia  only  2  m. 
from  Parahai,  the  principal  town  of 
what  was  formerly  a  separate  Zamin- 
dari  state  of  the  same  name. 

In  1857  Ariun  Sing  the  last  Raja  of 
Parahat  rebelled,  and  was  sentenced  to 
imprisonment  for  life  at  Benares.  The 
estate  of  Parahat  was  confiscated,  and 
is  now  under  the  management  of 
Government. 

1028  m.  Chakardarpnr  sta.  Here 
the  hills  recede.  The  country  is  well 
cultivated.  This  is  a  considerable  rail- 
way settlement  and  engine-changing 
station.  A  good  road  connects  Chak- 
ardarpur  with  Hanchi  and  the  Chota- 
Nagpur  plateau. 

(SiGta-Nagpur  is  the  seat  of  a  Mis- 
sionary Bishop  of  the  Church  of 
England,  who  nas  a  handsome  Church 
Ana  good  Schools  and  Native  Mission  in 
the  town  of  Ranchi :  there  are  com- 
munities of  Christian  Kols,  the  result 
of  extensive  S.P.G.  missions,  conducted 
by  a  brotherhood  from  Trinity  College, 
Dublin. 

[Crhaibaaa,  a  civil  station,  is  distant 
about  16  m.  to  the  S.  A  great  fair  is 
held  here  at  Christroas-time,  to  which 
the  people  of  the  country  flock. 
Athletic  sports,  races,  and  national 
dances  take  place  on  the  last  day  of 
the  year,  and  no  better  opportunity 
can  be  taken  for  seeing  the  people. 

1062m.Chandilsta.  Before  this  place 
is  reached,  the  hills  again  close  in  on 
the  line.  Dalma  Hill,  3407  ft.  above 
sea-level,  is  seen  12  m.  E.  It  is  from 
the  country  about  here  that  the  labour- 
ers for  the  tea-cultivation  in  Upper 
Assam  and  Cachar  are  mainly  recruited. 

1095  m.  PnruUa  sta.  The  Ihead- 
quarters  of  the  Manbhum  District, 
tnrough  which  the  traveller  has  been 
passing  for  many  miles.  The  place 
has  nearly  10,000  inhabitants  ana  the 
usual  offices  of  a  civil  station.  From 
here  also  a  road  runs  to  Ranchi. 

1147  m.  AsenBol  junc.  sta.  [Branch 
of  about  10  m.  W.  to  the  coal-mines.] 
About  6  m.  before  Asensol  is  reached 
the  river  Damuda  is  crossed  on  a  very 
fine  bridge.    From  Asensol  to  Calcutta, 


a  diatanoe  of  182  miles,  the  traveUec 
proceeds  by  the  East  Indian  BaQway. 
(See  p.  61.) 


ROUTE  4 

Khandwa  to  Ajmere  (Rajputana 
and  Malwa  Metre  Rly.) 

From  Bombay  858  m.  SSiandwa  jimc.  ata. 
The  traveller  is  here  transferred  to  the 
metre-gauge  line. 

At  38  m.,  Mortakka  sta.,  D.B.,  the 
Nerbudda  river  is  crossed  by  a  fine 
bridge,  with  a  cart-road  under  the  rails. 

This  neighbourhood  abounds  in  large 
game  of  every  sort. 

[A  good  cart  road  of  6  m.  leads  to 
Unkaxji,  a  place  quite  worth  visiting. 
The  best  mode  of  transit  is  by  river 
in  one  of  the  large  flat-bottomed  boats 
found  at  Mortakka,  where  there  is 
accommodation  for  Europeans  at  the 
Serai.  The  stream  is  ascended  before 
the  westerly  breeze,  and  is  descended 
by  oars  with  the  aid  of  the  current 
Provisions  must  be  taken.  The  country 
is  wild,  wooded,  and  the  scenery  on  tie 
river  very  beautifaL 

XJnkarji  is  more  properly  Omkaiji, 
from  the  mystic  syllable  Om  (an 
ejaculation  used  at  the  beginning 
of  a  prayer).  The  Great  Temple  of 
Omkar  is  situated  in  the  island  of 
Mandhata  in  the  Nerbudda.  It  is  said 
that  the  island  was  originally  called 
Baidurya  Mani  Parvat,  out  its  name 
was  changed  to  Mandhata  as  a  boon 
from  Shiva  to  Raja  Mandhatri,  the  17th 
monarch  of  the  Solar  Race,  who  per- 
formed a  great  sacrifice  here  to  that 
deity. 

The  area  of  the  isle  is  about  five- 
sixths  of  a  sq.  m.,  and  a  deep  ravine 
cuts  it  from  N.  to  S.  At  the  N.  the 
ground  slopes  gently,  but  terminates 
at  the  S.  and  E.  in  precipices  500  ft. 
high.  At  this  point  the  S.  bank  of 
the  Nerbudda  is  equally  steep,  and 
between  the  cliffs  the  river  is  exceed- 
ingly deep,  and  full  of  alligators  and 


ttOUTS  4.      tTHKARJI 


79 


Itfge  fiBh.  Hunter  savi  that  the  N. 
branch  of  the  Nerbudda  is  called  the 
Kayeri,  and  it  is  believed  that  a  stream 
80  called  enters  the  Nerbudda  1  m. 
higher  up,  passes  unmixed  through  it, 
and  again  leaves  it  at  Mandhata,  thus 
making  it  a  double  junction  of  two 
holy  rivers. 

On  both  sides  of  the  river  the  rocks 
are  of  a  greenish  hue,  very  boldly 
stratified.  It  is  said  that  the  Temple 
of  Omkar  and  that  of  Amreshwar  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  river  are  two  of  the 
twelve  great  temples  which  existed  in 
India  when  Mahmud  of  Ghazni  des- 
troyed Somnath  in  1024  A.D.  During 
the  wars  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries, 
the  S.  banks  were  deserted  and  over- 
grown with  jungle,  and  when  the 
Peshwa  desired  to  repair  the  temple  it 
could  not  be  found,  so  a  new  one  was 
built,  with  a  group  of  smaller  ones. 
Afterwards  part  of  it  was  found,  and 
the  late  Raja  Mandhata  built  a  temple 
over  it ;  but  its  sanctity  and  even  its 
name  have  been  appropiiated  by  that 
which  the  Peshwa  built. 

The  Raja  Mandhata,  who  is  hered- 
itary custodian  of  the  temples,  is  a 
Bhilala,  who  claims  to  be  28th  de- 
scendant of  the  Chauhan  Bharat  Sing, 
who  took  Mandhata  from  Kathu  Bhil 
in  1165  A.D.  The  old  temples  have 
suffered  from  the  Mohammedans,  and 
every  dome  has  been  overturned  and 
erexy  figure  mutilated.  The  gateways 
are  finely  carved.  The  oldest  temple  is 
that  on  the  Birkhala  rocks  at  the  E. 
end,  where  devotees  used  to  cast  them- 
selves over  the  cliffs  up  till  the  year 
1824,  when  the  custom  was  abandoned. 
The  temple  consists  of  a  courtyard, 
with  a  verandah  and  colonnades  sup- 
ported by  massive  pillars  boldly  carved. 
On  the  hill  are  the  ruins  of  a  very  fine 
Temple  to  Siddeshvara  Mahadeva^  which 
stood  on  a  plinth  10  ft.  high.  Round 
the  plinth  was  a  frieze  of  elephants,  5 
ft.  high,  carved  in  relief  with  remark- 
able skill,  on  slabs  of  yellow  sandstpne, 
bnt  all  but  two  of  the  elephants  are 
mntilated. 

In  front  of  the  Temple  to  Ch/uri  Som- 
mft  is  an  immense  bull  carved  in  a  fine 
green  stone,  and  100  yds.  farther  is  a 
pillar  20  ft  long.     On  the  island  itself 


all  the  templet  are  Shivite,  bat  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  Nerbudda  are  some  old 
temples  to  Vishnu,  and  a  group  of  Jain 
temples.  Where  the  river  bifurcates 
are  some  ruined  gateways,  and  a  large 
building  on  which  are  24  figures  of 
Vishnu,  well  carved  in  green  stone. 
Among  them  is  a  large  ^ure  of  the 
boar  Avatar.  On  an  image  of  ShiVa, 
in  the  same  building,  is  the  date  1S46 
A.D.  Farther  down  the  bank,  in  the 
Ravana  ravine,  is  a  prostrate  figure 
18^  ft.  long,  with  ten  arms  holaing 
clubs  and  skulls.  On  its  chest  is  a 
scorpion,  and  at  its  right  side  a  rat, 
and  one  foot  rests  on  a  prostrate  human 
figure. 

The  bed  of  the  ravine  is  covered  with 
huge  basalt  blocks  slightly  carved. 
The  Jain  Temples  stand  on  an  eminence 
a  little  back  from  the  river.  The 
largest  is  on  a  plinth  of  basalt,  5  ft. 
high.  The  E.  wall  is  still  complete. 
On  each  side  of  the  doorway  is  a  ngure 
with  Shivite  and  Jain  emblems  curi- 
ously intermixed.  The  hills  near  these 
temples,  as  well  as  the  island,  are 
covered  with  remains  of  habitations. 

A  great  fair  is  held  at  the  end  of 
October,  attended  by  15,000  persons. 
According  to  a  prophecy,  the  fulfilment 
of  which  the  Branmans  at  Mandhata 
anxiously  expect,  the  sanctity  of  the 
Ganges  will  soon  expire  and  oe  trans- 
ferred to  the  Nerbudda.  The  scenery 
around  the  island  is  beautiful.] 

58  m.  Choral  sta.  From  this  point 
the  ascent  of  the  ghat  commences  and 
continues  almost  into  Mhow.  The 
scenery  is  very  fine.  On  approaching, 
71  m..  Fatal  Pani  sta.  look  out  on  the 
1.  for  the  waterfall  of  that  name. 

74  m.  Mhow  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  in  the 
territory  of  Holkar,  an  important  mili- 
tary cantonment  of  Britisn  and  native 
troops,  headquarters  of  a  first-class 
district  command,  1900  ft.  above 
sea-level,  pop.  27,000.  Troops  are 
stationed  here  as  provided  in  the  Treaty 
of  Mandsaur  of  1818.  Mhow  has  no 
special  interest  for  a  traveller.  The 
buildings  and  institutions  are  those 
common  to  all  places  where  troops  are 
stationed. 

[From  Mhow  an  expedition  of  SO  m. 
may  be  made  S.W.  to  the  ruined  city 


80 


BOUTE  4.      KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


India 


of  Manda»  the  ancient  oapitd  of  the 
kingdom  of  Malwa.  It  is  m  the  terri- 
tory of  the  Maharaja  of  Dhar,  and 
the  hest  joute  is  by  tonga  or  carriage 
to  the  town  of  Dhar  (10  m.)*  taking  an 
iDtroduction  from  the  political  agent 
to  the  Maharaja,  who  will  then  make 
arrangements  for  the  remaining  20  m. 
of  the  journey.  Dhar  is  a  walled  town 
of  some  historical  and  archaeological 
interest,  containing  several  ruined 
mosques. 

Another  roate,  avoiding  Dhar,  passes  down 
the  main  road  for  about  10  m.,  and  then 
strikes  off  Into  the  country  past  Naicha, 
where  the  ruins  commence.  A  tent  is  neces- 
sary. Small  game  shooting  may  be  obtained 
along  the  road,  but  it  is  advisable  to  get  per- 
mission firom  the  general  at  Mhow,  or  at  any- 
rate  to  inform  the  agent  at  Dhar. 

Mandu  (1944  ft.)  occupies  8  m.  of 
ground,  extending  along  the  crest  of 
the  Yindhyas;  and  is  separated  from 
the  tableland,  with  which  it  is  on  a 
level,  by  a  valley.  The  traveller  can 
pass  the  night  in  one  of  the  temples, 
if  he  does  not  object  to  bats  and  bad 
air,  but  he  will  do  better  to  take  a  tent 
with  him  and  camp  beyond  the  village, 
near  the  Jumma  Musjid,  on  the  verge 
of  the  great  lake.  Paths  have  been  cut 
through  the  jungle  to  all  the  ruins  of 
interest,  the  chief  being  the  Jumma 
Musjid,  less  injured  than  any  of  the 
others,  and  said  to  be  the  finest  and 
largest  specimen  of  Afghan  architecture 
exfcmt  in  India ;  the  Fort,  the  IFater 
Palace,  the  marble  Mausoleum  of  Ho- 
sJiang  GJiori,  King  of  Malwa,  who 
raised  the  city  to  great  splendour  ;  and 
the  Palace  of  Baz  Bahadur,  another 
king  of  Malwa.  These  once  magni- 
ficent buildings  are  still,  in  their 
ruined  state,  very  striking  on  account 
of  their  massive  proportions.  The 
fortifications  were  constructed  by 
Hoshang  Ghori,  who  reigned  in  the 
beginning  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  in 
whose  time  the  city  attained  its  greatest 
splendour.  In  1626  Mandogarh  was 
taken  by  Bahadur  Shah,  ruler  of  Gu- 
zerat,  and  annexed  to  his  dominions,  of 
which  it  remained  part  until  their  con- 
quest by  Akbar  in  1570.  Of  late  years 
measures  have  been  taken  for  the  preser- 
vation of  some  of  the  most  interesting 
ruins.    According  to  Malcolm,  Mandu 


WM  founded  in  818  A.D.  Its  histoir 
(written  by  a  resident  of  Dhar)  shonld 
be  looked  at  before  visiting  the  place. 
It  will  be  found  full  of  interest  for  any 
one  who  is  at  all  acquainted  with  the 
ancient  history  of  Malwa.  Sir  Thomas 
Roe,  the  Ambassador  of  James  I.  of 
England,  entered  Mandu  in  the  train 
of  Jehangir,  part  of  the  triumphal 
procession  of  the  Great  Mogul  being 
500  elephants.  Sir  T.  B.  complains  in 
his  Memoirs  of  the  lions  which  then 
infested  the  country,  and  killed  one  of 
his  baggage  ponies.  The  Rajas  of  the 
towns  Mandu  and  Chitor  were  at  feud 
with  each  other  for  many  years  (see 
Chitor).  From  June  till  Nov.  the 
locality  is  very  unhealthy.  The  place 
is  very  wild,  the  scenery  fine,  and  game 
of  various  sorts,  including  panthers, 
abounds.] 

87  m.  Indore  sta.,  D.B.  This  place 
is  the  capital  of  the  state,  and  the 
residence  of  Holkar  the  Maharaja. 
Pop.  76,000. 

Indore  stands  on  an  elevated  and 
healthy  site.  Of  recent  years  modem 
improvements  have  been  introduced. 
Roads  have  been  metalled,  drains 
built,  the  water-supply  cared  for,  and 
the  principal  streets  lighted.  Among 
the  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the  Lai 
Bagh  or  garden,  the  mint,  high  school, 
market-place,  reading-room,  dispen- 
sary, ana  large  cotton-mill.  There  is 
considerable  export  trade  in  grain.  To 
the  W.  of  the  city  is  an  antelope  pre- 
serve. Adjoining  the  town,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  rly.,  is  the  BriUsh 
JResidency,  an  area  assigned  by  treaty, 
and  containing  not  only  the  house  and 
park  of  the  Governor-Generars  agent 
and  the  bungalows  occupied  by  his 
staff  and  other  officials,  but  a  bazaar  of 
some  importance,  and  the  central  opium 
stores  and  weighing  agency.  The 
barracks  for  the  Governor -General's 
native  escort  and  the  Rajkumar  Oollege 
for  the  education  of  young  native  chiefs 
\  and  nobles  are  also  within  the  Resi- 
dency limits.  Here  is  a  Mission  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church  of  Canada. 

The  paiace  of  the  Maharaja  (1  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.),  with  its  lofty, 
many-storied  gateway,  is  situated  al- 


ROUTE  4.      FATEHABAD 


81 


most  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  a 
conspicnous  object  from  every  part  of 
it  It  faces  £.  and  is  in  a  small  sqnare, 
with  the  Gonal  Mandir  to  the  S., 
which  was  built  by  Krishna  Bai,  H.H.'s 
mother.  To  the  W.  of  the  palace  is 
the  Sharafa  Street,  where  the  money- 
lenders, chiefly  Marwaris,  live.  Close 
by  is  the  Haldi  Bazaar,  where  the 
dealers  in  opium  live,  and  the  Itwar, 
or  Sunday  Street,  where  a  market  is 
held  on  Sundays.  At  the  end  of  this 
is  the  old  jail.  H.H.  sometimes  re- 
ceives guests  in  the  Lai  Bagh  mentioned 
above,  which  is  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  contains  a  handsome  villa. 
At  one  end  is  a  house  where  several 
lions  are  kept,  and  there  is  also  an 
aviary.  In  an  upper  room  are  portraits 
of  many  Hindu  Kajas.  In  the  lower 
story  is  a  handsome  hall  of  audience, 
which  looks  out  on  a  ghat  and  on  the 
Snrsuti  river,  which  is  dammed  up 
here.  From  the  terraced  roof  is  a  fine 
view  over  the  country. 

The  Sursuti  river  divides  the  city. 
The  old  capital  of  the  Holkar  family  was 
Maheshvar  in  Nimar,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Nerbudda,  where  is  the  magnificent 
Chattri  (a  monumental  memorial)  of 

I  Ahalya  Bai,  an  ancestress  of  Holkar.  Sir 
John  Malcolm  says  of  this  lady :  "The 

j  character  of  her  administration  was  for 

;  more  than  thirty  years  the  basis  of  the 
prosperity  which  attended  the  dynasty 
to  wnich  she  belonged.  She  sat  every 
day  for  a  considerable  period  in  open 
durbar  transacting  business.  Her  first 
principle  of  government  appears  to 
have  been  moderate  assessment  and  an 
almost  sacred  respect  for  the  native 

,  rights  of  village  officers  and  proprietors 
of  land.  She  heard  every  complaint 
in  person,  and  although  she  continu- 
ally referred  causes  to  courts  of  equity 
and  arbitration,  and  to  her  ministers 
for  settlement,  she  was  always  acces- 
sible, and  so  strong  was  her  sense  of 
duty  on  all  points  connected  with  the 
distribution  of  justice,  that  she  is  re- 
presented as  not  only  patient,  but  un- 
wearied in  the  investigation  of  the 
most  insignificant  causes  when  appeals 
were  made  to  her  decision.  It  appears, 
above  all,  extraordinary  how  she  had 
mental  and  bodily  powers  to  go  through 
[iTidia] 


the  labour  she  imposed  upon  herself, 
and  which  from  the  age  of  30  to  that 
of  60,  when  she  died,  was  unremitted. 
The  hours  gained  from  the  ilffairs  of 
the  state  were  all  given  to  acts  of 
devotion  and  charity,  and  a  deep  sense 
of  religion  appears  to  have  strengthened 
her  mmd  in  performance  of  her  worldly 
duties.  Her  charitable  foundations 
extend  all  over  India,  from  the  Hima* 
layas  to  Cape  Comorin,  and  from  Som* 
nath  to  the  Temple  of  Jagannath  in 
the  E."  Ahalya  Bai  is  certainly  the 
most  distinguished  female  character  in 
Indian  history.  This  short  notice  is 
given  as  it  will  probably  add  interest 
to  the  temples  and  ghats  erected  by  her, 
which  the  traveller  will  find  in  almost 
every  place  of  note  he  visits  in  India. 

112  m.  Fatehabad  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
From  here  a  short  branch  line  of  26  m. 
runs  to 

[Ujjain  (or  Ujjaiyini)  D.B.).  This 
famous  city  (the  Greek 'O/iJi'Ty)  is  situated 
on  the  rieht  bank  of  the  river  Sipra, 
which  falls  into  the  Chambal  after  a 
total  course  of  120  m.  Ujjain  is  in  the 
dominions  of  the  Maharaja  Sindia  of 
Gwalior  in  Malwa,  of  which  it  was  once 
the  capital.  It  stands  in  N.  lat  23'*  1 1' 
10",  and  is  the  spot  which  marked  the 
first  meridian  of  Hindu  geographers.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  the  seat  of  the  vice- 
royalty  of  Asoka,  during  the  reign  of  his 
father  at  Pataliputra,  the  capital  of 
Magadha,  supposed  to  be  the  modem 
Patna,  about  263  B.o.  It  is,  however, 
best  known  as  the  capital  of  the  cele- 
brated Vikramaditya  (Valour's  sim), 
founder  of  the  era  called  Samvat,  which 
begins  57  B. c.  He  is  said  to  have  driven 
out  the  Shakas  or  Scythians,  and  to 
have  reigned  over'almost  all  N.  India. 
At  his  court  flourished  the  Nine  Gems 
of  Hindu  literature,  viz.  Dhanvantari, 
Kshapanaka,  Amarasinha,  Shanku, 
Vetala-bhatta,  Ghata-karpara,  Kali- 
dasa,  Varanruchi,  and  Yaraha-mihira. 
Of  these  the  poet  Kalidasa  has  obtained 
a  European  celebrity.  Ujjain,  as  well 
as  the  whole  province  of  Malwa,  was 
conquered  W  Ala-ud-din  Khilji,  who 
reigned  at  Delhi  1295-1317  A.D.  In 
1387  A.D.  the  Mohammedan  Viceroy 
declared  himself  independent.  His 
name  was   Dilawar    Khan    Ghori,   of 

o 


8S 


BOUTS  4.      KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


tniia 


Afghan  ori^n,  who  raled  from  1387 
to  1405,  and  made  Mandu  his  capital 
In  1531  Malwa  was  conquerea  by 
Bahaduf  Shah,  King  of  Guzerat,  and  in 
1571  by  Akbar.  In  1658  the  decisive 
battle  between  Anrangzib  and  Murad 
and  their  elder  broSier  Dara,  was 
fought  near  this  city.  In  1792  Jas- 
want  Bao  Holkar  took  Ujjain,  and 
burned  part  of  it.  It  then  fell  into 
the  hands  of  Sindia,  whose  capital  it 
was  till  1810,  when  Daulat  Rao  Sindia 
Temoved  to  Gwalior. 

The  ruins  of  ancient  TJijain  are 
situated  about  1  m.  to  the  N.  of  the 
modem  city,  which  is  oblong  in  shape, 
and  6  m.  in  circumference,  Burrounaed 
by  a  stone  wall  with  round  towers,  and 
on  all  sides  by  a  belt  of  groves  and 
gardens.  The  principal  bazaar  is  a 
spacious  street,  flanked  by  houses  of 
two  stories,  and  having  also  four 
mosques,  many  Hindu  temples,  and  a 
palace  of  Maharajah  Sindia.  Near  the 
palace  is  an  ancient  gateway,  said  to 
nave  been  part  of  Vikramaditya's  fort. 
At  the  S.  end  of  the  city  is  the  Observa- 
tory, erected  by  Jai  Sing,  Rajah  of 
Jeypore,  in  the  time  of  the  Emperor 
Munammad  Shah.  The  same  prince 
eracted  observatories  at  Delhi,  Jeypore, 
Benares,  and  Muttra  (see  Benares 
Observatory).] 

161  m.  Butlam  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
(Branch  line  W.  by  Godhra  Anand 
junction  for  Baroda,  £.  to  Ujjain),  is  the 
capital  of  a  native  state  and  the  resi- 
dence of  the  chief.  It  was  founded  by 
Ratna,  ^reat- grandson  of  Uday  Sing, 
Maharajah  of  Jodhpur.  Ratna  was  at 
the  battle  of  Fatehabad,  near  Ujjain, 
in  which  Jaswant  Rao  Rath  or,  with 
30,000  Rajputs,  fought  Aurangzib  and 
Murad,  with  the  whole  Mogul  army. 
Tod,  vol.  ii.  p.  49,  says,  ''Of  all  the 
deeds  of  heroism  performed  that  day, 
those  of  Ratna  of  Katlam  by  universal 
consent  are  pre-eminent. "  Outside  the 
town  the  chief  has  a  very  charming  villa 
and  garden,  in  which  he  entertains 
guests.  The  palace  in  which  the  Prince 
resides  is  within  the  walls,  and  is  a  fine 
new  building,  with  a  handsome  reception 
room.  The  town  is  a  great  emporium 
for  opium.  There  is  a  Chauk  or 
tquare,   built  by    Munshi    Shahamat 


'Ali,  who  administered  the  state  during 
the  Raja's  minority.  Beyond  this 
square  is  the  Chandni  Chauk,  in  which 
the  bankers  live ;  and  this  leads  to  the 
Tirpoliya  Gate,  outside  which  is  the 
Amrit  Saugar  tank,  which  in  the  rains 
is  very  extensive.  In  the  town  is  a 
college  with  500  students. 

213  m.  Mandasor  sta.  A  fortified 
town,  remarkable  as  being  the  place 
where  in  1818,  at  the  end  of  the 
Pindari  War,  a  treaty  was  made  between 
the  British  Government  and  Holkar. 
Here  severe  fighting  occurred  in  1857 
between  the  rebels  and  a  brigade  of 
British  ti'oops  moving  from  Mhow  to 
relieve  the  British  officers  besieged  in 
the  fort  of  Neemuch.  Early  in  that 
memorable  year  Mandasor  became  the 
headquarters  of  a  serious  rebellion 
which  threatened  all  Malwa. 

243  m.  Neemuch  sta.  3^  (R.),  D.B.,  is 
on  the  Rajputana  and  Malwa  Rly.  line. 
A  cantonment  of  British  troops  con- 
taining the  usual  barracks  and  sub- 
sidiary buildings,  also  a  small  fort 
Neemuch  was  about  the  most  southerly 
place  to  which  the  mutiny  extended. 
In  1857  the  place  was  garrisoned  by  a 
brigade  of  native  troops  of  all  arms  of 
the  Bengal  army.  This  force  mutinied 
and  marched  to  Delhi,  the  European 
officers  taking  refusje  in  the  fort,  where 
they  were  besieged  by  a  rebel  force  from 
Mandsaur,  and  defended  themselves 
gallantly  until  relieved  by  a  brigade 
from  Mliow.  Some  42  ladies  and  non- 
combatants  found  refuge  at  Oodeypur. 

278  m.  Chitor  sta.  3^  (Branch  line 
to  Debari  for  Oodeypore  p.  85).  The 
Gambheri  river  is  crossed  by  a  massive 
old  bridge  of  gray  limestone,  with  ten 
arches,  all  of  pointed  shape,  except  the 
sixth  from  the  W.  bank,  which  is  semi- 
circular. The  gateways  and  towers 
which  existed  at  either  end  of  the  bridge 
have  now  disappeared.  Unfortunately 
the  bridge  is  deficient  in  water-way,  so 
that  floods  pass  over  the  parapets  and 
cut  into  the  banks,  and  consequently 
the  ford  has  to  be  used.  The  date  and 
builder  of  the  bridge  are  not  known,  but 
it  is  popularly  said  to  have  been  built 
by  Ari  Sing,  son  of  Rana  Lakshman, 
both  of  whom  were  killed  in  the  siege 
by  'Alau-ud-din,  about  1308  a.b. 


ROUTE  4.       CHITOR 


83 


Wlien  Chitor  was  the  capital  of 
Mewar,  the  city  was  up  in  the  fort, 
and  the  buildings  below  were  merely 
an  outer  bazaar.  The  modern  town, 
called  the  Talehti  or  Lower  Town  of 
Chitor,  is  little  more  than  a  walled 
village,  J  with  narrow,  crooked  streets, 
resembbng  an  outwork  to  the  lower 
gate  of  the  principal  W.  entrance  to 
the  great  Fort. 

The  abrupt  rocky  hill  crowned  by 
this  magnificent  Fort  rises  600  ft.  above 
the  surrounding  country,  and  is  a  very 
conspicuous  object,  thouch  its  great 
length  of  3^  m.  makes  it  look  lower  than 
it  really  is.  The  whole  of  the  summit 
is  covered  with  ruins  of  palaces  and 
temples,  and  the  slopes  with,  thick 
iungle.  A  single  ascent  1  m.  long 
leads  to  the  summit,  and  is  defended 
at  intervals  by  seven  very  fine  monu- 
mental gateways,  large  enough  to  con- 
tain guard-rooms  and  even  fine  halls. 
They  are  the  Padal  Pol,  the  nearly 
obliterated  (Broken)  Bhairo  or  Phuta 
Pol,  the  Hanuman  Pol,  the  Ganesh  Pol, 
the  Jorla  Pol,  the  Lakshman  Pol,  and 
the  main  gate,  or  Ram  Pol. 

Immediately  outside  the  Padal  Pol 
on  the  L  is  an  erect  stone  marking  the 

SK)t  where  Bagh  Sing,  the  chief  of 
eolia  Pratapgarh,  was  killed  during 
the  siege  of  Cnitor  by  Bahadur  Shah  of 
Guzerat,  in  1636. 

Between  the  "  Broken  "  and  the  Hanu- 
man gates  there  are  on  the  rt.  two 
chattris  marking  the  spots  where  the 
renowned  Jaimall  of  Bednor  and  his 
clansman  Ealla  were  killed  in  Akbar's 
siege,  in  1568.  Kalla  carried  his 
wounded  chief  down  to  have  a  last 
stroke  at  the  enemy,  and  died  fighting. 
The  39  memorial  stones  are  mudi 
venerated,  as  if  marking  the  shrine  of 
some  minor  deity. 

Facing  the  great  gate  is  a  pillared 
hall,  vLBed  as  a  guardhouse,  and  ap- 
parently of  ancient  construction.  From 
the  top  of  this  hall,  on  which  there  are 
two  four-pillared  chattris,  a  fine,  view  of 
theplain  is  obtained. 

The  Ram  Pol  is  a  large  and  hand- 
•ome  gateway,  crowned  by  a  Hindu 

^  For  a  striking  account  of  this  wonderful 
fort,  see  The  NaulakJva  and  Letters  c/MarguBf 
both  by  Bndyard  Kipling. 


horizontal  arch,  in  which  the  upper 
courses  of  either  side,  projecting  in- 
wards, overlap  each  other  till  they 
meet,  or  nearly  so,  being  then  slabbed 
over.  This  is  the  construction  of  all 
the  gateways  on  the  ascent,  except  the 
Jorla,  though  in  one,  the  Lakshman, 
the  lower  angles  of  the  projecting 
courses  are  sloped  off,  giving  the  whole 
the  outline  of  a  regular  pointed  arch. 
Inside  the  gate,  on  each  side,  is  a  fine 
hall,  supported  on  square-shaped  and 
slightly  tApering  antique  pillars. 

Within,  directly  facing  the  gate, 
the  hill  again  rises  steeply,  «nd  at  the 
foot  of  this  upper  rise  is  a  chattri  mark- 
ing where  Patta  Sing  fell. 

The  site  of  the  old  city  is  every- 
where covered  with  ruins.'  The  chief 
objects  of  interest  are  the  Towers  of 
Fame  and  Victory,  the  only  two  remain- 
ing of  a  great  number  of  similar  monu- 
ments which  probably  once  adorned  the 
brow  of  Chitor. 

The  old  Jain  Tower  of  Fame  stands 
up  grandly  on  the  E.  rampart.  This 
tower  is  called  the  small  Kirthana, 
which  is  a  contraction  of  Kirthi 
Stambh.  Fergusson  thus  describes  it: 
"One  of  the  most  interesting  Jaina 
monuments  of  the  age  (the  first  or 
great  age  of  Jaina  architecture,  which 
extended  down  to  about  the  year  1300, 
or  perhaps  a  little  after  that)  is  the 
tower  of  Sri  AUat  (Rana  AUuji).  It  is 
a  singularly  elegant  specimen  of  its 
class,  about  80  ft.  in  height,  and 
adorned  with  sculptures  and  mouldings 
from  the  base  to  the  summit.  An 
inscription  once  existed  at  its  base, 
which  gave  its  date  as  896  A.D.,  and 
though  the  slab  was  detached,  this  is 
so  nearly  the  date  we  should  arrive  at 
from  the  style  that  there  seems  little 
doubt  that  it  was  of  that  age.  It  was 
dedicated  to  Adnath,  the  first  of  the 
Jaina  Tirthankars,  and  his  figure  is 
repeated  some  hundreds  of  times  on 
the  face  of  the  tower  ;  but  so  far  as  I 
could  perceive,  not  that  of  any  of  the 
other  tfaina  saints.  The  temple  in  the 
foreground,  S.  side,  is  of  a  more  modem 
date,  being  put  together,  principally, 
of  fragments  of  other  buildings,  which 
have  disappeared." 

The  tower  consists  of  seven  stories, 


64 


ROUTE  4.      KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


India 


with  an  internal  narrow  and  cramped 
■stairoase ;  the  top  storey  is  open,  ana  its 
roof,  which  rests  on  pillars,  and  has  been 
much  damaged  by  lightning,  has  bushes 
growing  on  it.  Its  construction  is  locally 
attributed  by  some  to  Khatan  Bani,  wite 
of.  Khata  Bana,  and  by  others  to  Allata 
Bana,  who  ruled  a.d.  950  or  according 
to  Tod  A.D.  895.  Fragments  of  an  in- 
scribed stone  are  on  the  ^oond  under 
a  tree  just  N.  of  the  tower. 

From  the  W.  ridge  the  view  opens  out, 
and  a  semicircular  valley  is  seen  with  the 
Elephant  reservoir  close  to  the  cliff  and 
a  background  of  trees,  out  of  which  rises 
the  magnificent  Jaya-stambh  or  Towvr 
of  Victory.  Of  this  Mr.  Fergusson  says : 
"To  Kumbo,  who  reigned  from  1418-68, 
we  owe  this  tower,  which  was  erected  to 
commemorate  his  victory  over  Mahmud, 
kine  of  Malwa,  in  1439.  It  is  a  Pillar 
of  victory,  like  that  of  Trajan  at  Borne, 
but  of  iniinitely  better  taste  as  an  archi- 
tectural object.  It  has  nine  storeys, 
each  of  which  is  distinctly  marked  on 
the  outside.  A  stair  in  the  centre 
leads  to  each  storey,  the  two  upper  ones 
being  open  and  more  ornamented  than 
those  below.  It  stands  on  a  base  47  ft. 
square  and  10  ft.  high,  and  is  30  ft. 
square  riidng  to  a  height  of  122  ft.,  the 
whole  being  covered  with  ornaments  and 
sculptures  to  such  an  extent  as  to  leave 
no  plain  part,  while  this  mass  of  decora- 
tion is  kept  so  subdued  that  it  in  no  way 
interferes  with  the  outline  or  general 
effect.  The  old  dome  was  injured  by 
lightning,  and  a  new  one  was  substi- 
tuted by  H.  H.  Sarup  Sing.  The  stair 
is  much  wider  and  easier  than  that  in 
the  Jain  tower  (the  small  Kirthan),  and 
in  the  inside  are  carvings  of  Hindu 
deities  with  the  names  below.  In  the 
top  storey  are  2  of  the  original  4  slabs 
with  long  inscriptions.  The  tower  took 
7  to  10  yrs.  to  build,  from  1548  to 
1558.  On  the  road  at  the  comer  of  the 
lower  platform  is  a  square  pillar  record- 
ing a  sati  in  1468,  A.D." 

Close  by  the  gate  of  the  Sun,  on  the 
E.  rampart,  are  two  large  tanks,  and  ad- 
joining them  is  the  fine  Palace  of  Bana 
Knmbo,  the  builder  of  the  Tower  of 
Victory,  a  fine  example  of  the  domestic 
architecture  of  Bajputana  before  the 
Ifussolman  invasion,  showing  all  the 


beauty  of  detail  which  characterises 
such  buildings  in  general  In  front  is 
a  court  surrounded  by  guard-rooms  and 
entered  by  a  vaulted  gateway. 

The  Palace  of  Batoa  Sing  (or  Bhim) 
is  a  very  pleasing  example  of  the  style  of 
the  Hindu  architecture  of  this  country 
in  the  13th  cent  That  of  his  wife 
Baai  Padmani  is  a  laree  and  beautiful 
building  overlooking  the  tank.  From 
one  of  these  palaces  Akbar  carried  off 
the  famous  gates  now  in  the  fort  at  Agra. 

The  Temple  of  Vriji,  built  by  Rana 
Eumbo  about  1450,  is  a  massive  build- 
ing with  a  sikra  (or  tower)  of  annsn* 
ally  large  proportions.  Adjoining  it 
is  a  temple,  in  the  same  style, 
built  by  his  wife,  the  famous  Mira  Bai, 
of  which  the  chief  peculiarity  is  that 
the  procession  path  round  the  ceU  is 
an  open  colonnade  with  four  small 
pavilions  at  the  corners. 

At  the  highest  point  in  Chitor  a  broad 
terrace  has  been  made,  whence  there 
is  a  magnificent  view. 

Near  the  Tower  of  Victory  is  the 
Hahasata,  a  small  wooded  terrace,  the 
pleasantest  spot  on  the  hill,  which  was 
the  place  of  cremation  of  the  Banas 
before  Oodeypur  was  founded.  Below, 
on  a  lower  terrace,  are  the  Gaumukh 
springs  and  reservoir.  The  springs 
issue  from  the  cliff  at  places  where  are 
cow-mouth  carvings,  hence  the  name. 
To  the  S.W.  is  a  large  carved  stone 
temple,  built  by  Bana  Mukalji.  On 
the  oack  wall  is  a  huge  carved  head. 

A  branch  line  runs  from  Chitor  to 
Debari,  whence  there  is  a  regular  service 
of  vehicles  toOodeypore,  8  miles  distant 
Dabok,  where  livea  Colonel  Tod,  the 
first  Besident  and  author  of  the"  Annals 
of  Bagastan,"  lies  in  ruins  a  few  miles 
south  of  Debari. 

About  1  m.  before  reaching  the  capi- 
tal, the  Arh  river  is  crossed,  with 
the  old  ruined  town  of  that  name 
on  its  banks.  This  stream  collects 
the  whole  drainage  of  the  Girwa, 
the  natural  outlet  from  which  was 
dammed  up  with  an  immense  masonry 
embankment  by  Maha  Bana  Udai 
Sing.  He  thus  formed  the  Udai 
Saugar  Lake,  the  surplus  waters  from 
which,  escaping,  form  the  Birach  river, 

Oodeypo]*e,  or  Udaypur,  the  marvel- 


ROUTS  4.      OODEYPOSS 


85 


lofiBly  pioturesqne  capital  of  the  state 
of  Mewar,  the  residence  of  the  Maha- 
lana,  Samp  Sing,  and  of  the  British 
Kesident,  to  whom  a  suitable  intro- 
duction shonld  be  brought. 

It  is  difficult  to  conceive  anything 
more  beautiful  than  the  situation  of  this 
place.  It  mav  be  described  as  the  centre 
of  the  Lake  District  of  India.  Some  of 
the  best  views  are  obtained  from  the 
palace,  the  embankment,  or  the  Dudh 
Talao,  more  especially  in  the  morning, 
when  the  early  sun  lights  up  the  marble 
of  the  water  palaces,  wi^  the  dark 
water  beyond,  and  the  still  darker  back- 
ground of  the  hills. 

The  City  is  surrounded  by  a  bastioned 
wall,  which  towards  the  S.  encloses 
several  large  gardens.     The  W.  side  is 
further  protected  by  the  lake,  and  the 
N.  and   £.  sides  by  a  moat  supplied 
from  the  lake,   while  on  the  S.  the 
fortified  hill  of  Eklinjgarh  rises  steep 
and  rugged.      The  principal  gateways 
are  the  Hathi  Pol  or  "  Elephant  Gate," 
to  the  N.  ;  the  Kherwara  Gate,  to  the 
S. ;  the  Suraj  Pol,  or  **Gate  of  the 
Sun,"  on  the  E. ;  and  the  Delhi  Gate. 
On  the  side  towards  the  lake  is  a 
handsome  TirpoHya^   or  three-arched 
water  gateway.      Another  gate  with 
massive  arches  opens  on  a  bridge,  and 
leads  to  a  suburb  on  the  W.  of  the  lake. 
The  beautiful  Fold  Lake  lies  to  the 
W.  of  the  city.    It  is  said  to  have  been 
constructed    in   portions  at    different 
periods.      Udai   Sing   probably  com- 
menced it.    The  N.  portion  is  called  the 
Sarup  Saugar,  having  been  constructed 
by  Maha  Rana  Samp  Sing.   The  groves 
and  palaces  on  the  islands  are  so  beauti- 
ful that  the  traveller  will  be  glad  to 
pass  the  whole  day  tliere ;  but  the  boats 
on  the  lake  belong  to  the  Maha  Bana, 
and  are  only  obtainable  through  the 
Besident    There  is  fine  makseer  and 
other  fishing  in  the  lake,  for  which 
permission  must  be  obtained.      In  one 
of  the  Palaces  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan, 
then  Prince  Salim,  took  shelter  from 
the  displeasure  of  his  father  Jehangir. 
Here  are  retained  some  relics  of  the 
Prince,  and  there  is  a  handsome  shrine 
of  polished  stone.      Heire  too  the  42 
refugees  from  Neemuch,  at  the  time  of 
the  Mutiny,  were  received  and  pro- 


tected by  the  Maha  Rana  Sarup  Sing. 
From  another  of  the  palaces,  Outram 
when  taunted  by  the  Maha  Rana, 
sprang  into  the  lake,  swarming  though 
it  was  with  alligators,  who  were  being 
fed,  and  swam  to  shore.  The  fine 
Hindu  Temple  is  a  perfect  example  of 
the  Indo- Aryan  style.  **  The  porch  is 
covered  with  a  low  pyramidal  roof, 
placed  diagonally  on  the  substructure, 
and  rising  in  steps,  each  of  which  is 
ornamented  with  vases  or  urns  of 
varying  shapes.  The  tower  is  orna- 
mented by  four  flat  bauds,  of  great 
beauty  and  elegance  of  design,  between 
each  of  which  are  35  little  repetitions 
of  itself,  placed  one  above  the  other  in 
5  tiers,  the  whole  surmounted  by  an 
amalaka,  and  an  um  of  very  elegant 
desi^.  Every  part  is  carved  with  great 
precision  and  delicacy."    (Ferguson.) 

A  day  should  be  spent  in  a  visit  to 
the  Itoyal  Palace  on  the  brink  of  the 
lake,  iS.  permission  can  be  obtained 
from  the  Resident.  The  modern  part 
of  the  palace,  close  above  the  lake, 
is  the  part  most  accessible.  *'  It  is  a 
most  imposing  pile  of  granite  and 
marble,  of  quadrangular  shape,  rising 
at  least  100  ft.  from  the  ground,  ana 
flanked  with  octagonal  towers,  crowned 
with  cupolas.  Although  built  at  various 
periods,  uniformity  of  design  has  been 
well  preserved  ;  nor  is  there  in  the  East 
a  more  striking  structure.  It  stands 
upon  the  very  crest  of  a  ridge,  running 
parallel  to,  but  considerably  elevated 
above  the  mar^n  of  the  lake.  The 
terrace,  which  is  at  the  E.  and  chief 
front  of  the  palace,  extends  throughout 
its  length,  and  is  supported  by  a  triple 
row  of  arches,  from  the  declivity  of 
the  ridge.  The  height  of  this  arcaded 
wall  is  full  50  ft.,  and  although  all  is 
hollow  beneath,  yet  so  admirably  is 
it  constructed,  that  an  entire  range  of 
stables  is  built  on  the  extreme  verge 
of  the  terrace,  on  which  all  the  forces 
of  the  Maha  Rana,  elephants,  cavalry, 
and  infantry,  are  often  assembled. 
From  this  terrace  the  city  and  the  valley 
lie  before  the  spectator,  whose  vision  is 
bounded  only  by  the  distant  hills; 
while  from  the  summit  of  the  palace 
nothing  obstmcts  the  view  over  lake 
and  moi^ntain."    There  is  a  hospital. 


86 


ROUTE  5.       ITARSI  JUNCTION  TO  OAWNPORE 


India 


charch,  and  home  of  the  U.P.  Church 
of  ScotiancL 

A  drive  should  be  taken  along  the 
principal  street  of  Oodeypur  from  the 
Hathi  Pol  through  the  main  bazaar  to 
the  Palace,  gradually  rising  along  the 
side  of  the  ndge  and  passing  the  great 
Jag[d^  Temple.  Another  arive  leads 
fErough'  ^thebazaars  from  either  the 
Delhi  or  Suraj  Pol  Gate  to  the  Oulab 
QarcUn,  which,  with  its  stately  trees, 
beautiful  flowers,  walks  and  fountains, 
is  well  worth  a  visit.  Passing  through 
it,  go  to  the  Dudh  Talao  or  ''muk 
tank,*'  a  branch  of  the  Pechola  Lake, 
and  by  a  picturesque  road  round  it  re- 
turning to  the  D.  S.  by  the  outside  road. 

Another  visit  may  be  made  to  Ahar^ 
3  m.  to  the  E.  of  the  lake,  where  are 
the  cenotaphs  of  the  Maharanas.  These 
chattris  containing  the  royal  ashes  stand 
in  what  is  called  the  Mahasati  or  royal 
place  of  cremation,  which  is  enclosed  by 
a  lofty  wall  and  is  adorned  by  many  fine 
trees.  The  most  remarkable  are  those 
of  Sangram  Singh  11. ,  a  large  and 
beautifol  structure,  and  of  Amara  Singh, 
grandson  of  Udai  Singh.^  Besides  the 
modem  village  of  Ahar,  there  is  the  older 
town,  where  are  ruined  temples,  which 
are  tiie  chief  objects  of  interest,  and  also 
some  still  more  ancient  mounds. 

If  he  has  time,  the  traveller  may  go  to 
see  the  great  lake  at  Kankrol%  or  Kaj- 
nagar,  called  the  Bajsamudra,  30  m.  to 
the  N.  of  Oodeypur.  The  retaining  wall 
of  this  lake  is  of  massive  masonry,  in 
many  places  40  ft.  high.  The  Band  or 
Ghat  is  1115  ft.  long,  with  pavilions  and 
torans  or  ornamental  arches  all  of 
marble ;  behind  is  an  embankment  35 
yds.  wide.  It  was  erected  (1660)  as  a 
famine  work.  There  is  a  fair  cart-track 
to  this  place. 

The  Dhibar,  or  Jaisamand  lake, 
is  about  20  ra.  S.E.  of  Oodeypur  city 
through  a  wild  country;  it  is  about 
9  m.  long  by  5  m.  broad,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  sights  in  India.] 

379  m.  NuBseerabad  sta.,  D.B. 
The  military  cantonment  for  Ajmere. 
The  station  was  originally  laid  out  in 
1818  by  Sir  David  Ochterlony.  It  is  a 
long,  straggling  place.  Some  interest 
is  attached  to  Nusseerabad  from  the 
1  S^e  Pergusso^, 


fact  that  when  the  mutiny  broke  oat 
in  1867,  the  Bombay  CSavalry  (Ist)  were 
compelled  to  remain  neutral — ^thoufh 
loyally  inclined— as  the  families  of  lie 
native  officers  and  men  were  at  the 
mercy  of  a  Bengal  regiment,  who 
mutinied  and  marcned  on  Ajmere.  A 
cavfdry  skirmish  took  place  near  where 
the  railway  station  now  stands,  in 
which  several  officers  lost  their  lives. 
None  of  the  officers'  bungalows  of  the 
1st  cavidry  were  touched.  One  officer, 
on  his  return  to  Nusseerabad  in  more 
peaceful  times,  found  even  his  clock 
on  mantelpiece  as  he  left  it.  Good 
small -game  shooting  and  mg-sticking 
are  to  be  had  in  the  neignbourhood. 
Here  is  a  Scottish  (U.  P. )  Mission. 
393  m.  Ajmere  June.  sta.  (sec  Rte.  6.) 


ROUTE  5 
Itaesi    Junction     to     Cawnpoek, 

THROUGH   BhOFAL,  BhILSA,   AND 

Jhansi. 

Itarld  June.  sta.  464  m.  from  Bombay 
on  the  G.I. P.  Railway  (see  Rte.  1). 

11  m.  HoBhangabad  sta.,  D.B.  A 
town  with  population  of  16,000 ;  the 
headquarters  of  a  district  of  the  same 
name.  The  place  contains  nothing  to 
detain  a  traveller.  Passing  oi;it  of  Hosh- 
angabad  the  railway  crosses  the  Ner- 
budda  on  a  fine  bridge.  About  4  m. 
N.  of  the  Nerbudda  river  the  ascent 
of  the  ghat  commences,  and  at  the  top 
the  line  runs  on  the  tableland  of 
Malwa,  which  has  an  average  elevation 
of  1600  ft 

57  m.  Bhopalsta.(R.).D.B.  [Branch 
to  nj,jain].  The  town  stands  on  the  N. 
bank  of  a  fine  and  extensive  lake,  4}  m. 
long  and  1^  broad.  Bhopal  is  the  capital 
of  a  native  state,  under  the  Central 
Indian  Agency.  It  has  an  area  of  8200 
sq.  m.  The  dynasty  was  founded  by  Dost 
Muhammad,  an  Afghan  chief  in  the 
service  of  Aurangzib,  who  took  advan- 
tage of  the  troubles  that  followed  the 
Emperor's  death  to  establish  his  inde- 
penaence.  His  family  havealways  shown 
their  friendship  for  the  British.  In  1778, 
when  Greneral  Goddard  made  his  famous 
march  across  India,  Bhopal  was  the 
only  Indian  state  whfch  8nowe4  itself 


ROUTE  6.      BHILSA 


87 


Mendly.  In  1S09,  when  General  Close 
commanded  another  expedition  in  the 
neighbourhood,  the  Nawab  of  Bhopal 
applied  to  be  received  under  British 
protection,  but-  without  success.  The 
Nawab  then  obtained  assistance  from 
the  Pindaris,  in  the  gallant  struggle  he 
maintained  to  defend  himself  against 
Sindia  and  Raghoji  Bhonsla,  in  the 
course  of  which  his  capital  underwent 
a  severe  but  iueffectual  siege. 

In  1817  the  British  Government  in- 
tervened and  formed  an  alliance  with 
the  Nawab  of  Bhopal,  who  was  in 
1818  guaranteed  his  possessions  by 
treaty,  on  condition  of  furnishing  600 
horse  and  400  infantry,  to  maintain 
which  five  districts  in  Malwa  were 
assigned  to  him.  He  was  soon  after- 
wards killed  by  a  pistol  accidentally 
discharged  by  a  child.  His  nephew,  an 
infant,  was  declared  his  successor,  and 
betrothed  to  his  infant  daughter,  but 
the  Nawab's  widow,  Khudsya  Begam, 
endeavoured  to  keep  the  government 
in  her  own  hands,  and  the  declared 
heir  resigned  his  claim  to  the  throne 
and  to  the  hand  of  the  Nawab's  daughter 
Sikaudar  Begam  in  favour  of  his  brother 
Jehangir  Muhammad.  After  long  dis- 
sensions, Jehangir  Muhammad  was  in- 
stalled as  Nawab,  in  1837,' through  the 
mediation  of  the  British.  He  died  in 
1844,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  widow, 
Sikandar  Begam,  who  ruled  till  her 
death  in  1868.  She  left  one  daughter. 
Shah  Jehan  Begam.  The  State  main- 
tains 694  horse,  2200  foot,  14  field  cuns 
and  43  other  guns,  with  291  artillery- 
men, and  pays  £20,000  to  the  British 

i  Government  in  lieu  of  a  contingent. 

:  The  name  of  Bhoi)al  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  that  of  its  founder,  Raja 
Bhoj,  and  the  dam  by  which  he  formed 
the  Tank,  dam  being  in  Hindu  pal. 
Thus  Bhoj  pal  has  been  coiTupted  into 
Bhopal.  The  city  proper  is  enclosed 
by  a  masonry  wall,  2  m.  in  circuit. 

The  traveller  should  visit  the  Falace 
of  the  Begam,  which  is  not  of  much 
architectural  beauty,  but  is  a  large  and 
imposing  building;  the  Citadely  from 
the  wsdS  of  which  a  fine  view  of  the 
lake  and  surrounding  country  is  ob- 
tained ;  the  Jwrnma  Musjidy  built  by 
the  late   Khudsya   Begam ;  the  MoH 


Musfid,  built  by  the  late  Sikandar 
Begam  (it  somewhat  resembles  the 
Mosque  at  Delhi) ;  the  MirU  and  Ar- 
senal, and  the  Gardens  of  the  Khudsya 
and  Sikandar  Beganis. 

The  town  of  Bhopal  is  well  kept  and 
lighted,  and  fairly  clean.  In  the  city 
proper,  water  has  been  laid  on  to  all 
the  houses.  The  Water-works  were 
built  by  the  Khudsya  Begam,  and  are 
much  superior  to  those  of  most  Indian 
citiesn  The  smaller  lake  E.  of  the  town, 
2  m.  long,  was  constructed  by  Chota 
Khan,  minister  of  Nawab  Hyat 
Muhammad  Khan,  a  former  ruler  of 
Bhopal.  The  dam  is  of  masonry,  and 
is  an  imposing  work.  . 

90  m.  Bhilsa  sta.  A  fortified  town 
in  the  Gwalior  state.  Pop.  7000.  The 
town  is  situated  on  the  rt.  or  E.  bank 
of  the  river  Betwa,  and  is  perched  on 
a  rock  of  1546  ft.  above  sea-level,  and 
has  a  fort  enclosed  by  a  castellated 
stone  wall,  and  surrounded  by  a  ditch  ; 
the  suburb  outside  has  some  spacious 
streets  containing  good  houses.  In  the 
fort  lies  an  old  gun,  19J  ft.  in  length, 
with  a  bore  of  10  in,,  said  to  have  been 
made  by  order  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir. 
After  changing  hands  several  times, 
Bhilsa  was  finally,  in  1570,  incorporated 
with  the  Empire  of  Delhi  by  Akbar. 
The  tobacco  produced  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  town  is  considered  the  finest  in 
India.  Bhilsa  is  now  chiefly  note- 
worthy as  a  famous  place  of  Hindu  pil- 
grimage to  the  temples,  picturesquely 
situated  in  the  bed  of  the  Betwa  river, 
and  as  giving  its  name  to  the  remark- 
able and  interesting  series  of  Buddhist 
Topes  found  in  its  neighbourhood.^ 

Mr.  Fergusson  says,  in  his  History 
of  Architecture  :  "  The  most  extensive, 
and  perhaps  the  most  interesting  group 
of  topes  in  India,  is  that  known  as  the 
Bhilsa  Topes:  within  a  district  not 
exceeding  10  m.  E.  and  W.,  and  6  m. 
N.  and  S.,  are  five  or  six  groups  of 
topes,  containing  altogether  between 
25  and  30  individual  examples." 

1  These  are  described  in  General  Cunningo 
ham's  BhiUa  Topes,  1  voL  8vo.  1854;  also  in 
Fergusson's  Tree  and  Serpent  Worship.  Onehalf 
of  this  book  and  45  of  its  plates,  besides  wood- 
cuts,  are  devoted  to  the  illustration  of  the 
Great  Tope.  A  cast  of  the  B.  gateway  is  in  the 
South  Kensington  and  Edinburgh  MustJunis, 


88 


ROUTE  5.      ITABSI  JUNCTION  TO  CAWNFORE 


India 


Notvithste&ding  all  that  has  been 
written  «bottt  them,  we  know  very  little 
that  is  certain  regarding  their  object 
and  their  history. 

5  m.  from  Bhilsa  is  Sanctai,  s^c  where 


Plan. 


there  is  a  group  of  11  topes. 
the  principal  is — 


Of  these 


cended  by  a  broad  double  ramp  on  one 
side.  It  was  probably  used  for  proces- 
sions round  the  monument.  The  centre 
of  the  mound  is  quite  solid,  being  of 
bricks  laid  in  mud,  but  'the  exterior  is 
faced  with  dressed  stones,  over  which 
was  cement  nearly  4  in.  thick,  origin- 
ally adorned,  no  doubt,  with  paintings 
or  ornaments  in  relief. 

As  is  usual  in  these  Buddhist  topes, 
the  building  is  surrounded  by  **  rails," 
exhibiting  the  various  steps  by  which 
the  modes  of  decorating  them  were 
arrived  at,  with  4  gateways  or  torans 
(3  in  8itu)y  covered  with  most  elaborate 
sculptures,  quite  unequalled  by  any 
other  examples  known  to  exist  in  India. 
The  period  of  erection  probably  ex- 
tended from  about  250  b.c.  to  the  Ist 
cent,  of  the  Christian  era ;  the  rails 
were  constructed  first  and  the  gate- 
ways at  intervals  afterwards. 

Besides  the  group  at  Sanchi,  there  is 
at  Sonari,  6  m.  off,  a  group  of  eight 
topes,  of  which  two  are  important  struc- 
tures in  square  courtyards,  and  in  one 
of  these  numerous  relics  were  found. 
At  Sadhara,  3  m.  farther,  is  a  tope  101 
ft.  in  diameter,  which  yielded  no  relics. 


Section  Great  Tope  at  SanchL 


The  Great  Tope,  a  dome  106  ft.  in 
diameter  and  42  ft.  high.  On  the  top 
is  a  fiat  space  34  ft.  in  diameter,  once 
surrounded  by  a  stone  railing.  In  the 
centre  was  a  **  Tee,"  intended  to  repre- 
sent a  relic-casket.  The  dome,  42  ft. 
high,  rests  on  a  sloping  base  120  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  14  ft.  high,  and  was  as- 


In  one  tope,  24  ft.  in  diameter,  were 
found  relics  of  Sariputra  and  others 
like  those  found  at  Sanchi. 

At  BkojpuTy  7  m.  from  Sanchi,  are 
37  topes,  the  largest  66  ft.  in  diameter, 
and  in  the  next  to  it  important  relics 
were  found.  At  Andher^  5  m.  W.  of 
Bhojpur,  is  a  group  of  three  small  but 


ROUTE  5.   SAUaOR 


89 


▼ery  interestiiig  topes.  *'  As  far  as  can 
be  at  present  ascertained,"  says  Mr.  Fer- 
gnssoD, "  there  is  no  reason  for  assuming 
that  any  of  these  topes  are  earlier  than 
the  ace  of  Asoka,  220  B.C.,  nor  later 
than  the  1st  century  A.D.,  though  their 
rails  may  be  later." 

In  1883,  by  order  of  the  Government 
of  India,  the  main  group  of  buildings 
received  much  attention.  The  fallen 
gateways  were  set  up.  The  sacred  rails 
were  secured,  and,  where  fallen,  were 
re-erected.  The  body  of  the  stupa  was 
restored  to  its  original  shape,  and  the 
processional  paths  were  cleared.  Where 
it  was  necessary  to  put  in  new  stone 
for  structural  purposes  the  surfaces  have 
been  left  quite  plain. 

148  m.  Bina  junc.  sta.  (R.)  A  line 
from  here  runs  S.E.  over  an  undulating 
country  to  Sanger  and  Dummon. 

[47  m.  Saugor,  D.B.  Principal  town 
and  headquarters  of  Saugor  district, 
Central  Provinces.  A  military  canton- 
ment Pop.  44,000.  Saugor  stauds  1940 
ft.  above  sea-level,  on  the  borders  of 
a  fine  lake,  nearly  1  m.  broad,  from 
which  it  derives  its  name.  The  lake  is 
said  to  be  an  ancient  Banjara  work,  but 
the  present  city  dates  only  from  the 
lend  of  the  17th  cent,  and  owes  its 
!  rise  to  a  Bundela  Rajah,  who  built  a 
'  small  fort  on  the  site  of  the  present 
structure  in  1660,  and  founded  a  village 
called  Parkota,  now  a  quarter  of  the 
modem  town.  Saugor  was  next  held 
by  Ohatar  Sal,  and  formed  part  of 
the  territory  left  by  him  on  his  death 
to  his  ally  the  Peshwa.  Qovind  Pandit 
was  appointed  by  the  Peshwa  to  ad- 
minister the  country,  and  his  descend- 
ants continued  to  manage  it  till 
shortly  before  it  was  ceded  to  the 
British  Government  by  the  Peshwa  Baji 
Bao  in  1818.  During  this  period  the 
town  was  twice  plundered  by  the  Pin- 
dan  chief  Amir  Ehan  and  his  army, 
and  again  by  Sindia  in  1804.  During 
the  Mutiny  of  1857  the  town  and  fort 
were  held  by  the  English  for  eight 
months,  until  the  arrival  of  Sir  Hugh 
Bose.  During  that  time  the  whole  of 
tlie  surrounding  country  was  in  posses- 
sion of  the  rebels. 


Saugor  town  is  well  built,  with  wide 
streets.  The  large  bathing-ghats  on  the 
banks  of  the  lake,  for  the  most  part 
surrounded  with  Hindu  temples,  add 
much  to  its  appearance. 

The  existing  Fwt  at  Saugor  was  com- 
pleted by  the  Marathas  about  1780. 
It  stands  on  a  height  N.  W.  of  the  lake, 
commanding  the  whole  of  the  city  and 
surrounding  country,  and  consists  of  20 
round  towers,  varying 'from  20  to  40  ft. 
in  height,  connected  by  thick  curtain 
walls.  It  encloses  a  space  of  6  acres, 
for  the  most  part  covered  with  old 
Maratha  buildings  two  stories  high. 
The  British  Government  have  con- 
structed a  magazine,  a  large  building 
now  used  for  medical  stores,  and  a  bar- 
rack for  the  European  guard.  The 
only  entrance  is  on  the  L.  side.  The 
building  is  now  used  as  the  tahsil,  and 
as  the  office  of  the  executive  engineer. 
The  large  castellated  jail,  capable  of 
containing  600  prisoners,  is  situated 
about  J  m.  E.  of  the  lake  ;  the  Deputy 
Commissioner's  Court  is  on  a  hill  over- 
looking the  city  and  lake  ;  the  Sessions 
Court-house,  a  little  to  the  N. ;  and  the 
city  kotwali,  or  station-house,  under 
the  western  walls  of  the  fort  In  1862 
an  unhealthy  swamp  lying  N.E.  of  the 
lake,  which  cut  off  the  quarter  called 
Gopalganj  from  the  rest  of  the  city, 
was  converted  into  a  large  garden  with 
numerous  drives  and  a  piece  of  oi-na- 
mental  water.  The  civil  station  begins 
with  the  mint,  about  1  m.  E.  of  the 
lake,  and  extends  northwards  for  1  m. 
till  joined  by  the  military  cantonments, 
which  extend  in  a  north-easterly  direc- 
tion for  2^  m.,  with  the  church  in  the 
centre.] 

182  m.  Lalitpnr  sta.,  D.B.  The  head- 
quarters of  a  district  of  the  same  name. 
Pop.  11,000.  Formerly  unimportant, 
this  place  is  now  becoming  more 
prosperous.  Buddhist  remains  built 
into  the  walls  of  modern  buildings 
indicate  that  some  large  shrine  once 
existed  in  the  neighbourhood. 

207  m.  Talbahat  sta.   A  picturesque 
town  with  a  large  piece  of  artificial, 
water  covering  more  than  1   sq.   m. 
The  water  is  retained  by  damming  the 


90 


ROUTE  6.       ITARSI  JUNCTION  TO  CAWNPORE 


India 


streams  that  flow  through  a  rocky 
barrier  about  800  ft  high.  The  ridge 
is  covered  with  old  battlements  and 
defences.  The  fort  was  destroyed  by 
Sir  Hugh  Rose  in  1858. 

238  m.  Jhansi  June,  sta.3^  (R.),  D.B. 
centre  of  the  Indian  Mid.  Bly.  system. 
The  main  line  runs  N.K  to  Cawn- 
pore,  a  branch  N.  to  Gwalior  and  Agia, 
and  another  £..  through  Banda  to 
the  £.  I.  Rly.  at  Manikpur.  Jhansi 
is  one  of  the  main  halting-places  for 
troops  proceeding  up  country.  It  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit  on  account  of  its 
Fort,  which  the  British  Government 
have  exchanged  with  Maharaja  Sindia 
for  Gwalior. 

The  Province  of  Bundelkand,  in 
which  Jhansi  is  situated,  has  for  ages 
been  one  of  the  most  turbulent  and 
difficult  to  manage  in  all  India.  In 
the  early  part  of  the  17th  century  the 
Orchha  state  was  governed  by  Bir 
Sing  Deo,  who  built  the  fort  of  Jhansi, 
8  m.  to  the  N.  of  his  capital,  which  is 
situated  on  an  island  in  the  Betwa 
river.  He  incurred  the  heavy  dis- 
pleasure of  Akbar  by  the  murder  of 
Abul  Fazl,  the  Emperor's  favourite 
minister  and  historian,  at  the  instiga- 
tion of  Prince  Salim,  afterwards  known 
as  the  Emperor  Jehangir.  A  force  was 
accordingly  sent  against  him  in  1602  ; 
the  country  was  ravaged  aud  devastated, 
but  Bir  Sing  himself  contrived  to 
escape.  On  the  accession  of  his  patron, 
Salim,  in  1605,  he  was  naturally 
pardoned,  and  rose  into  great  favour ; 
but  when,  on  the  death  of  that  em- 
peror in  1627,  Shah  Jehan  mounted 
the  throne,  Bir  Sing  revolted.  His 
rebellion  was  unsuccessful,  and  although 
he  was  permitted  to  keep  possession  of 
his  dominions,  he  never  regained  all 
his  former  power  and  independence. 
During  the  troubled  times  which  suc- 
ceeded, Orchha  was  sometimes  in  the 
hands  of  the  Mohammedans  and  some- 
times fell  under  the  power  of  Bundela 
chieftains.  In  1732  Chatar  Sal  found 
it  expedient  to  call  in  the  aid  pf  the 
Marathas,  who  were  then  invading  the 
Central  Provinces  under  their  first 
Peshwa,  Baji  Rao.  They  came  to  his 
assistance  with  their  accustomed  promp- 


titude, and  were  rew{U*ded  on  the  Raja's 
death,  in  1734,  by  a  bequest  of  one- 
third  of  his  dominions.  The  territoiy 
so  granted  included  portions  of  the 
modem  division  of  Jhansi,  but  not  the 
existing  district  itself.  In  1742,  how- 
ever, the  Marathas  found  a  pretext  fw 
attacking  the  Orchha  State,  and  an- 
nexing that  amongst  other  territories. 
Their  general  founded  the  city  of  Jhansi, 
and  peopled  it  with  the  inhabitants  of 
Orchna. 

The  district  remained  under  the  rule 
of  the  Peshwas  until  1817,  when  they 
ceded  their  richts  to  the  E.  I.  Com- 
pany. Under  British  protection,  native 
kajas  ruled  until  their  folly  and  in- 
competency ruined  the  country,  and 
when  the  dynasty  died  out  in  1853 
their  territories  lapsed  to  the  British 
Government.  The  Jhansi  State,  with 
Jaloun  and  Chanderi  Districts,  were 
then  formed  into  a  Superintendency, 
while  a  pension  was  eranted  to  the 
Rani  or  widow  of  the  late  Raja  Rao. 
The  Rani,  however,  considered  herself 
aggrieved,  both  because  she  was  not 
allowed  to  adopt  an  heir,  and  because 
the  slaughter  of  cattle  was  permitted 
in  the  Jhansi  territory.  Reports  were 
spread  which  excited  the  religious  pre- 
judices of  the  Hindus. 

The  events  of  1867  accordingly  found 
Jhansi  ripe  for  rebellion.  In  May  it 
was  known  that  the  troops  were  dis- 
affected, and  on  the  5th  of  June  a  few 
men  of  the  12th  Native  Infantry  seized 
the  fort  containing  the  treasure  and 
magazine.  Many  European  officers 
were  shot  the  same  day.  The  re- 
mainder, who  had  taken  refuge  in 
a  fort,  capitulated  a  few  days  after, 
and  were  massacred  with  their  families 
to  the  number  of  66  persons,  in  spite  of 
a  promise  of  protection  sworn  on  the 
Koran  and  Ganges  water.  The  Rani 
then  attempted  to  seize  the  supreme 
authority,  but.  the  usual  anarchic 
quarrels  arose  between  the  rebels,  during 
which  the  Orchha  leaders  laid  siege 
to  Jhansi  and  plundered  the  country 
mercilessly.  On  the  4th  of  April  1868 
the  fort  and  town  were  captured  by  Sir 
Hugh  Rose,  who  marched  on  to  Ealpi 
without  being  able  to  leave  a  garrison 
at  Jhansi.    After  his  departui-e,  the 


ROUTE  5.      KALPI 


91 


rebellion  broke  out  afresh,  only  the 
Gasarai  chieftain  in  the  N.  remaining 
faithful  to  the  British  cause.  On  the 
nth  August  a  flying  column  under 
Colonel  Liddell  cleared  out  the  rebels 
from  Mhow,  and  after  a  series  of  sharp 
contests  with  various  guerilla  leaders, 
the  work  of  reorganisation  was  fairly 
set  on  foot  in  November.  The  Rani 
herself  had  previously  fled  with  Tantia 
Topi,  and  finally  fell  in  a  battle  at  the 
foot  of  the  rock  fortress  of  Gwalior. 

The  siege  of  Jhansi  occupied  Sir 
Hugh  Rose's  army  from  21st  March 
till  4th  April  1858,  and  cost  us  843  in 
killed  and  wounded,  of  whom  86  were 
officers.  The  engineers  lost  4  officers 
leading  the  attacking  parties  at  the  final 
escalade.  Malleson,  quoting  Sir  Hugh 
Rose,  gives  the  following  description  of 
i  Jhansi  at  the  time  of  the  investment : — 
I  "  The  great  strength  of  the  Fort  of 
<  Jhansi,  natural  as  well  as  artificial, 
and  its  extent,  entitle  it  to  a  place 
'  among  fortresses.  It  stands  on  an 
elevated  rock,  rising  out  of  a  plain,  and 
commands  the  city  and  surrounding 
country.  It  is  built  of  excellent  and 
I  most  massive  masonry.  The  fort  is 
difficult  to  breach,  because  composed'of 
granite;  its  walls  vary  in  thickness 
from  16  to  20  fL  It  has  extensive  and 
elaborate  outworks  of  the  same  solid 
constniction,  with  front  and  flanking 
embrasures  for  artillery-fire,  and  loop- 
holes, of  which  in  some  places  there  were 
five  tiers  for  musketry.  On  one  tower, 
called  the  '  white  turret,'  since  raised  in 
height,  waved  in  proud  defiance  the 
standard  of  the  high-spirited  Rani. 
The  fortress  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  the  city  of  Jhansi,  the  W.  and 
part  of  the  S.  face  excepted.  The 
steepness  of  the  rock  protects  the  W. ; 
the  fortified  city  wall  springs  from 
the  centre  of  its  S.  face,  and  ends 
in  a  high  mound  or  mamelon,  which 
protects  by  a  flanking  fire  S.  face.  The 
mound  was  fortified  by  a  strong  circular 
bastion  for  five  guns,  round  part  of 
which  was  drawn  a  ditch,  12  ft.  deep 
and  15  ft.  broad  of  solid  masonry. 

"  The  city  of  Jhansi  is  about  4 J  m.  in 
circumference,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
fortified  and  massive  wall,  from  6  to  12 
ft  thick,  and  varying  in  height  froT(\ 


18  to  80  ft.,  with  numerous  flanking 
bastions  armed  as  batteries,  with  ord- 
nance, and  loop-holes,  with  a  banquette 
for  infantry.  The  town  and  fortress 
were  garrisoned  by  11,000  men,  com- 
posed of  rebel  sepoys,  foreign  mercen- 
aries, and  local  levies,  and  they  were 
led  by  a  woman  who  believed  her  cause 
to  be  just" 

It  is  being  modernised  and  supplied 
with  strong  armament.  The  views 
from  the  top  and  from  the  road  round 
the  rampart  are  very  extensive. 

The  old  civil  station  (Jhansi  Naoa- 
bad)  attached  to  Jhansi  before  1861 
remains  the  headquarters  of  the  dis- 
trict, and  is  under  British  rule. 

[7  m.  from  Jhansi,  on  the  river  Betwa, 
is  the  interesting  native  fort  of  Orchha, 
well  worth  a  visit] 

Between  Jhansi  and  Cawnpore  the 
country  abounds  in  black  buck.  Num- 
erous old  fortified  villages  are  seen 
from  the  rly.  train. 

808  m.  Orai  ( Vrai)  sta.  (R.)  A  thriving 
place  of  8000  inhabitants.  The  head- 
quarters of  the  Jaloun  district  Before 
1839  the  place  was  an  insignificant 
village.  There  are  some  handsome 
Mohammedan  tombs  and  the  usual 
public  offices. 

829  m.  Kalpi  sta.  on  the  Indian 
Midland  Railway.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  right  bank  of  the  Jumna 
amongst  deep  rugged  ravines.  The 
river  here  is  crossed  by  an  iron  girder 
bridge.  Tradition  says  that  the  town 
was  founded  by  Basdeo  or  Vasude  va,  who 
ruled  at  Eamba  from  330  to  400  a.d. 

During  the  Mogul  period  Kalpi. 
played  so  large  a  part  in  the  annals  of 
this  part  of  India  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  detail  its  history  at  length. 
After  the  Marathas  interfered  in  the 
aflairs  of  Bundelkund,  the  headquarters 
of  their  government  were  fixed  at  Kalpi. 
At  the  tmie  of  the  British  occupation 
of  Bundelkund  in  1803,  Nana  Gobind 
Rao  seized  upon  the  town.  The  British 
besiegied  it  in  December  of  that  year, 
and,  after  a  few  hours'  resistance,  it 
surrendered.  Kalpi  was  then  included 
in  the  territory  granted[to  Raja  Himmat 
Bahadur,  q^  whpse  death,  in  1304,  it 


92 


ROUTE  5a.       AQBA  to  MANIKFUB 


onoe  more  lapsed  to  Govemineiit.  It 
was  next  handed  over  to  Gobind  Bao, 
who  exchanged  it  two  years  later  for 
villages  farther  to  the  W.  Since 
that  time  Kalpi  has  remained  a  British 
possession.  After  the  capture  of  Jhansij 
and  the  rout  of  the  mutineers  atEoonch, 
they  fell  back  on  Kalpi,  which  through- 
out the  previous  pperations  they  had 
made  their  principal  arsenal.  Here,  on 
22d  May  1858,  Sir  Hugh  Rose  (Lord 
Strothuairn)  again  defeated  a  large 
force  of  about  12,000  under  the  Rani  of 
Jhansi,  Rao  Sahib,  and  the  Nawab  of 
Banda,  who  then  fled  to  Gwalior. 

Kalpi  was  formerly  a  place  of  far 
greater  importance  than  at  the  present 
day.  The  East  India  Company  made 
it  one  of  their  principal  stations  for 
providing  their  commercial  invest- 
ments. The  western  ontskirt  of  the 
town,  along  the  river  side,  contains  a 
large  number  of  ruins,  notably  the 
tomb  called  the  84  Jiomes,  and  12 
other  handsome  mausoleums.  At  one 
time  the  town  adjoined  these  ruins, 
but  it  has  gradually  shifted  south- 
eastward. Ganesganj  and  Temanganj, 
two  modern  quarters  in  that  direction, 
at  present  conduct  all  the  traffic.  The 
buildings  of  the  old  commercial  agency 
crown  some  higher  ground,  but  are  now, 
for  the  most  i)art,  empty.  A  ruined 
fort,  situated  on  the  steep  bank  of  the 
Jumna,  overhangs  the  ghat 

874  m.  Oawnpore  junc.  sta.  (see 
p.  260). 


ROUTE  5a 

Aqba  to  Gwalior,  Jhansi,  Banda, 
AXD  Manikpur. 

Starting  from  the  Agra  Fort  Station 
(p.  168)  by  the  Indian  Midland  Rail- 
way, the  traveller  reaches  at 


86  m.  Dholpnr  sta.  (R.),  the  chief  town 
oftheuative  state  of  that  name.  Inl658 
Aurangzib  defeated  and  killed  his  elder 
brother  Dara-Shikoh  at  Ran-ka- 
Chabutara,  3  m.  E.  of  Dholpur.  The 
imperial  princes,  competitors  for  the 
crown,  'Azini  and  Mu  azzim,  fought  a 
great  battle  in  1707  at  the  village  of 
Barehta  near  Dholpur,  and  the  former 
was  killed,  on  which  Mu'azzim  became 
emperor,  with  the  title  of  Bahadur  Shah. 

The  sights  of  Dholpur  are  not  numer- 
ous. The  Palace  is  a  moderately  hand- 
some and  very  commodious  building. 
The  tank  of  Much  Kund,  about  2  m. 
from  Dholpur,  is  about  i  m.  long,  and 
contains  several  islets,  on  which  are 
pavilions.  The  banks  are  lined  with 
temples,  but  none  of  them  are  apcient 
or  remarkable.  There  are  alligators  in 
the  tank,  but  though  crowds  of  pilgrims 
bathe  in  the  waters,  there  is  no  story 
of  any  of  them  being  carried  off. 

The  river  Ohambal  runs  through 
this  state,  and  is  bordered  everywhere 
by  a  labyrinth  of  ravines,  some  of  which 
are  90  ft.  deep,  and  extend  to  a  distance 
of  from  2  to  4  m.  from  the  river  banks, 
near  which  panthers  are  sometimes 
found.  The  floods  of  the  Ghambal  are 
very  remarkable.  The  highest  recorded 
flood  above  summer  level  rose  no  less 
than  97  ft.  There  is  a  very  fine  Bridge 
over  the  stream  about  4  m.  from  Dhol-  . 
pur,  built  of  the  famous  red  sandstone 
of  Dholpur,  a  ridge  of  which,  from  560 
to  1074  ft.  above  sea -level,  runs  for 
60  m.  through  the  territory,  and  sup- 
plies inexhaustible  quarries. 

77m.GWALIOB8ta.3^(R.),D.B.  The 
capital  of  Maharaja  Sincda,  and  &mous 
for  its  fort,  one  of  the  most  ancient  and 
renowned  strongholds  in  India. 

For  many  years  a  strong  brigade  of 
British  troops  was  maintained  at  MoraVf 
a  few  m.  K  of  the  fort  The  latter 
was  garrisoned  by  British  troops  from 
1858  to  1886,  when  it  was  restored  to 
the  Maharajah's  custody,  and  Gwalior 
and  Morar  were  made  over  to  him  in 
exchange  for  Jhansi 

Histozy. 

General  Cunningham,  in  vol.  ii.  of 
the  Keperts  of  the  Arekaoiogicdl  Sur 


ROUTE  6a.      GWALlOtt 


dd 


My,  gives  a  mdst  valuable  account  of 
-  Gwalior.  He  says  that  of  the  three 
16th  and  17th  cent,  authorities  for  the 
early  history  of  Gwalior,  Eh$irg  Rai 
says  Gwalior  was  founded  3101  b.c.  ; 
that  Fazl  'All  assigns  275  A.  d.  as  the 
year  of  its  foundation ;  and  that  this 
date  is  also  adopted  by  Hiraman. 
Tieffenthaler,  Wilford,  and  Cunning- 
nam  a^ree  in  fixing  on  this  later  date. 
Aocording  to  Cunningham,  Toramana 
was  a  tributary  prince  under  the  Gup- 
tas, against  whom  he  rebelled,  and 
became  sovereign  of  all  the  territory 
between  the  Jumna  and  Nerbudda, 
and  in  the  reign  of  his  son,  275 
A.i>.,  the  Sun  Temple  was  built,  the 
Snr^j  Kund  excavated,  and  Gwalior 
founded,  by  Suraj  Sen,  a  Eachhwaha 
chief,  who  was  a  leper,  and  coming 
when  hunting  to  the  hill  of  Gopagiri, 
on  which  the  Fort  of  Gwalior  now 
stands,  got  a  drink  of  water  from 
the  hermit  Gwalipa,  which  cured  him 
of  his  leprosy.  In  gratitude  for  that 
he  built  a  fort  on  the  hill,  and  called 
it  **Gwaliawar,"  or  Gwalior.  Suraj 
Sen  got  a  new  name,  Suhan  Pal,  from 

i    the  nermit,  with  a  promise  that  his 

\.  descendants  should  reign  as  long  as 
they  were  called  Pal;  so  88  reigned, 

I  but  the  84th  was  called  Tej  Kara,  and 
having  discarded  the  name  of  Pal,  lost 

I    his  kingdouL 

'  This  Kaohhwaha  dynasty  was  suc- 
ceeded by  seven  Parihara  princes,  who 
ruled  for  103  years  till  1232  A.D.,  when 
Gwalior  was  taken  by  Altamsh,  in  the 
2l8t  year  of  the  reign  of  Sarang  Deo. 

,  General  Cunningnam  found  an  in- 
scription on  an  old  stone  sugar-mill  at 
Chitauli  between  Nurwar  and  Gwalior, 
which  is  dated  Samwat  1207  =  1150 
A.D.,  in  the  reign  of  Ram  Deo,  which 

res  with  and  strongly  corroborates 
dates  he  has  accepted. 
The  capture  of  Gwalior  by  Altamsh 
was  commemorated  in  an  inscription 
placed  over  the  gate  of  the  Urwahi, 
and  ti^e  Emperor  Babar  states  that  he 
saw  it,  and  the  date  was  630  a.h.  = 
1232  A.D.  Briggs,  in  a  note  to  Firish- 
tah,  says  it  is  still  to  be  seen,  but 
General  Cunningham  sought  for  it  in 
vain.  From  1232  to  Tiniar's  invasion 
in  1398  the  Emperor  of  Delhi  used 


Gwalior  as  a  state  prison.  In  1375 
A.i>.  the  Tumar  chief,  Bir  Sing 
Deo,  declared  himself  independent, 
and  founded  the  Tumar  dynasty  of 
Gwalior. 

In  1416  and  1421  the  Gwalior  chiefs 
paid  tribute  to  Ehizr  Ehan  of  Delhi, 
and  in  1424  Gwalior,  being  besieged 
by  Hushang  Shah  of  Malwa,  was  de- 
livered by  Mubarak  Shah  of  Delhi. 
In  1426,  1427,  1429,  aud  1432,  the 
Eing  of  Delhi  marched  to  Gwalior,  and 
exacted  tribute.  Dimgar  Sing,  1425, 
commenced  the  great  rock  sculptures 
at  Gwalior,  and  his  son  Eirti  Sin^, 
1454,  completed  them.  In  1465  Husam 
Sharki,  king  of  Jaunpur,  besieged 
Gwalior,  and  obliged  it  to  pay  tribute. 
Man  Sin^  acknowledged  the  supremacy 
of  Bahlol  Lodi  and  of  Sikandar  Lodi, 
but  the  latter  in  1505  marched  against 
Gwalior,  fell  into  an  ambuscade  and 
was  repulsed  with  great  loss.  In 
1506,  however,  he  captured  Himmat- 
garb,  but  passed  by  Gwalior,  which  he 
despaired  of  reducing.  In  1517  he 
made  great  preparations  at  Agra  for 
the  conquest  of  Gwalior,  but  died  of 
quinsy.  Ibrahim  Lodi  had  sent  an 
army  of  30,000  horse,  300  elephants, 
and  other  troops,  against  Gwalior,  and 
a  few  days  after  they  reached  that  place 
Man  Sing  died.  He  was  the  greatest 
of  the  Tumar  princes  of  Gwalior,  and 
constructed  many  useful  works,  amongst 
others,  the  great  tank  to  the  N.W.  of 
Gwalior,  called  the  Moti  JhU,  Cun- 
ningham says  his  palace  affords  the 
noblest  specimen  of  Hindu  domestic 
architecture  in  N.  India.  He  was  a 
patron  of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  an  elephant 
sculptured  in  his  reign,  with  two  riders, 
was  admired  by  the  Emperor  Babar, 
Abu -1- Fazl,  and  the  traveller  Finch. 
After  Man  Sing's  death  his  son,  Vikra- 
maditya,  sustained  the  siege  for  a  year, 
but  at  last  surrendered,  and  was  sent 
to  Agra. 

Babar  sent  Bahimdad  with  an  army 
to  Gwalior,  which  he  took  by  a  strata- 
gem, suggested  by  the  holy  Muhammad 
Ghans.  In  1542  Abu-1-Easim,  Gover- 
nor of  Gwalior,  surrendered  his  fortress 
to  Sher  Shah.  In  1545  Salim,  son  of 
Sher,  brought  his  treasure  from  Chunar 
to  Gwalior,  and  in  1558  died  at  the 


d4 


ftOUTE  5a.      AGRA  TO  MANlKPtJtt 


latter  place.  Bana  Sah,  son  of  Yikram, 
tried  to  seize  Gwalior,  and  fought  a 
groat  battle,  which  lasted  for  three  days, 
with  Akbar's  troops  there,  bnt  was  de- 
feated. He  then  went  to  Chitor.  In 
1761  Gwalior  was  taken  by  Bhim  Sing, 
the  Jat  Rana  of  Gohad,  and  in  1779 
captured  by  Major  Popham  from  the 
Marathas,  into  whose  hands  it  had 
fallen,  and  restored  to  the  Rana  of 
Gohad.  It  was  a^ain  taken  by  the 
Marathas  under  Mahadaji  Sindia  in 
1784,  and  again  captured  by  the  English 
under  General  Wnite  in  1803,  and  re- 
stored to  them  in  1805.  In  1844,  after 
the  battles  of  Maharajpur  and  Paniar, 
it  was  a  third  time  occupied  by  the 
British. 

At  the  time  of  the  Mutiny  the  great 
Maratha  prince,  Sindia,  had,  besides 
10,000  troops  of  his  own,  a  contingent 
consisting  of  2  regts.  of  Irregular 
Cavalry — 1168  men  of  all  ranks,  7 
regts.  of  Infantry  aggregating  6412  men, 
and  26  guns,  witn  748  Artillerymen. 
This  force  was  officered  by  Englisnmen, 
and  the  men  were  thoroughly  drilled 
and  disciplined,  and  were,  in  fact,  ex- 
cellent soldiers,  as  they  proved  by  de- 
feating and  almost  driving  into  the 
river  General  Windham's  brigade  at 
Cawnporc. 

At  this  time  Sindia  was  in  his  2dd 
year,  an  athletic  and  active  man,  and 
a  first-rate  horseman  and  fond  of 
soldiering.  It  is  admitted  that  he 
could  handle  troops  on  parade  as  well 
as  most  men,  and  he  possessed  an 
extraordinary  liking  for  the  military 
profession.  Had  he  decided  to  throw 
m  his  lot  with  the  rebels  he  might 
have  marched  to  Agra,  which  was  only 
65  m.  distant,  and  with  his  powerful 
army  must  have  made  himself  speedily 
master  of  that  city  ;  and  the  results 
might  have  been  temporarily  disastrous 
to  the  British.  ButSindia'sableminister, 
Dinkar  Rao,  knew  something  of  the 
power  of  the  English  Grovemment ; 
knew  that  though  he  could  have  ob- 
tained a  temporary  success  he  would 
be  certainly  overpowered  in  the  end. 
He  therefore  persuaded  Sindia  to  deal 
Bubtilely  with  nis  dangerous  army,  and 
by  delays  and  evasions  kept  them  for  a 
time  firom  issuing  from  their  canton- 


ments and  adding  their  formidable 
strength  to  the  rebel  army.  He  conld 
not,  however,  prevent  them  killing  their 
English  officers. 

Seven  officers  and  several  ladies  and 
children  escaped  the  showers  of  bullets 
that  were  aimed  at  them,  and  reached 
the  Residency,'  or  Sindia's  Palace. 
These  were  sent  on  by  the  Maratha 
Prince  to  the  Dholpur  territory,  where 
they  were  most  kindly  treated  and  sent 
to  Agra. 

For  some  months  Gwalior  was  quiet, 
thouffh  the  country  round  was  in 
rebellion,  and  on  the  22d  May  1858  a 
very  important  battle  was  fought  in 
front  of  JKalpi  in  which  the  mutineers 
led  by  Tantia  Topee  and  the  Khanee 
of  Thausi  were  severely  defeated  by 
Sir  Hugh  Rose.  They  retreated  in  the 
direction  of  Gwalior. 

On  the  1st  June  Sindia  with  all  his 
army  moved  out  from  Gwalior  to  meet 
them.  The  engagement  took  place  about 
2  m.  K  of  Morar.  Malleson  thus  de- 
scribes it : — 

"He  had  with  him  6000  infantry, 
about  1600  cavalry,  his  own  bodyguard 
600  strong,  and  8  guns,  ranged  in  3 
divisions, — his  guns  centre.  About  7 
o'clock  in  the  morning  the  rebels  ad- 
vanced. As  they  approached,  Sindia's 
8  guns  opened  on  them.  But  the 
smoke  of  the  discharge  had  scarcely 
disappeared  when  the  rebel  skirmishers 
closed  to  tiheir  flanks,  and  2000  horse- 
men charging  at  a  gallop,  carried  the 
guns.  Simultaneously  with  their 
charge,  Sindia's  infantry  and  cavalry, 
his  bodyguard  alone  excepted,  either 
joined  the  rebels  or  took  up  a  position 
indicative  of  their  intention'  not  to 
fight.  .  .  .  The  rebels  then  attacked 
the  bodyguard,  who  defended  them- 
selves bravely,  but  the  contest  was  too 
unequal,  and  Sindia  turned  and  fled, 
accompanied  by  a  very  few  of  the  sur- 
vivors. He  did  not  draw  rein  till  he 
reached  Agra." 

The  Rhanee  thereupon  seized  the 
Fort  of  Gwalior  and  proclamed  the 
Nana  as  Peishwa.  On  hearing  of  this 
Sir  Hugh  Rose,  on  the  4th  June, 
marched  upon  Gwalior.  As  he  neared 
it  he  was  joined  by  Sir  Robert  Napier 
(Lord  Napier  of  Magdala),  who  took 


ttOtJTfi  6a.      GWALtolt 


d5 


command  of  the  2nd  Brigade,  and  by 
the  Hyderabad  troops.  On  the  16th  he 
came  into  touch  with  the  rebels  at 
Bahadurpore,  near  Morar.  In  spite 
of  the  long  and  fatiguing  march  which 
hisforce  had  endured,  Sir  Hugh  attacked 
the  enemy  at  once,  and  drove  them 
firom  their  position. 

"The  main  body  of  the  enemy,  driven 
through  the  cantonments,  fell  back  on 
a  dry  nullah  with  high  banks,  running 
round  a  village  which  they  had  also 
occupied.  Here  they  maintained  a 
desperate  hand-to-hand  struggle  with 
the  British.  The  71st  Highlanders 
suffered  severely,  Lieutenant  Neave, 
whilst  leading  them,  falling  mortallv 
wounded ;  nor  was  it  till  the  nullan 
was  nearly  choked  with  dead  that  the 
▼illa^  was  carried.  The  victory  was 
com]^eted  by  a  successful  pursuit  and 
slaughter  of  the  rebels  by  Captain 
Thompson,  14th  Light  Dragoons,  with 
a  wing  of  his  regiment 

"  The  result,  then,  had  justified  Sir 
Hugh's  daring.  Not  only  had  he  dealt 
.a  heavy  hlow  to  the  rebels,  but  he 
gained  a  most  important  strategical 
point." 

(The  visitor  to  the  Fort  sees  this 
battle-field  below  him  to  the  E.  and  S.) 

Early  next  morning  (the  17th  of 
June),  Brigadier  Smith  marched  irom 
Antri  and  reached  Kotah-ki-serai,  5  m. 
to  the  S.E.  of  Gwalior,  without  opposi- 
tion. There  he  discovered  the  enemy 
in  great  force,  and  showing  a  disposi- 
tion to  attack.  **  Reconnoitring  the 
ground  in  front  of  him,  he  found  it 
verv  difficult,  intersected  with  nullahs 
ana  impracticable  for  cavalry.  He  dis- 
covered, moreover,  that  the  enemy's 
guns  were  in  position  about  1500  yds. 
n-om  Eotah-ki-serai,  and  that  their 
line  lay  under  the  hills,  crossing  the 
road  to  Gwalior.  Notwithstanding 
this,  Smith  determined  to  attack. 
First  he  sent  his  horse  artillery  to  the 
front,  and  silenced  the  enemy  s  guns, 
which  limbered  up  and  retired.  This 
accomplished,  Smith  sent  his  infantry 
across  the  broken  ground,  led  by  Raines 
of  the  95th.  Raines  led  his  men, 
covered  by  skirmishers,  to  a  point  about 
60  yds.  from  the  enemy's  works,  when 
the  skirmishers  made  a  rush,  the  rebels 


falling  back  as  they  did  so.  Raines  then 
found  himself  stopped  by  a  deep  ditch 
with  4  ft.  of  water,"  but  surmounting 
the  difficulty  he  gained  the  abandoned 
entrenchment.  **  Whilst  he  was  con- 
tinuing his  advance  across  the  broken 
and  hilly  ground.  Smith  moved  his 
cavalry  across  the  river  Umrah,  close 
to  Kotah-ki-serai.  They  had  hardly 
crossed  when  they  came  under  fire 
of  a  battery  which  till  then  had 
escaped  notice.  At  the  same  time  a 
body  of  the  enemy  threatened  the 
haggage  at  Kotah-ki-serai.  Matters 
now  became  serious.  But  Smith  sent 
back  detachments  to  defend  the  baggage 
and  rear,  and  pushed  forward.  The 
road,  before  debouching  from  the  hills 
between  his  position  and  Gwalior,  ran 
for  several  hundred  yards  through 
a  defile  along  which  a  canal  had  been 
excavated.  It  was  while  his  troops 
were  marching  through  this  defile  that 
the  principal  fighting  took  place. 
Having  gained  the  farmer  end  of  the 
defile,  where  he  joined  Raines,  Smith 
halted  the  infantry  to  guard  it,  and 
ordered  a  cavalry  charge.  This  was 
most  gallantly  executed  by  a  squadron 
of  the  8th  Hussars,  led  by  Colonel 
Hicks  and  Captain  Heneage.  The 
rebels,  horse  and  foot,  gave  way  before 
them.  The  hussars  captured  two  guns, 
and  continuing  the  pursuit  through 
Sindia's  cantonment,  had  for  ■  a 
moment  the  rebel  camp  in  their  pos- 
session. 

"  Amongst  the  fugitives  in  the  rebel 
ranks  was  the  resolute  woman  who, 
alike  in  counsel  and  on  the  field,  was 
the  soul  of  the  conspirators.  Clad  in 
the  attire  of  a  man  and  mounted  on 
horseback,  the  Rani  of  Jhansi  might 
have  been  seen  animating  her-  troops 
throughout  the  day.  When  inch  by 
inch  the  British  troops  pressed  through 
the  pass,  and  when  reacning  its  summit 
Smith  ordered  the  hussars  to  charge, 
the  Rani  of  Jhansi  boldly  fronted  the 
British  horsemen.  When  her  comrades 
failed  her,  her  horse,  in  spite  of  her 
efforts,  carried  her  along  with  the 
others.  With  them  she  might  have 
escaped,  but  that  her  horse,  crossing 
the  canal  near  the  cantonment 
stumbled   and  fell.    A   hussar,    close 


M 


tlOUTB  5a.       AQRJL  to  UA^flKPUR 


India 


upon  her  track,  i^orant  of  her  sex 
and  her  rank,  cat  ner  down.  She  fell 
to  rise  no  more.  That  night,  her 
devoted  followers,  determined  that  the 
English  should  not  hoast  that  they 
had  captured  her  even  dead,  burned 
her  body." 

Following  up  the  operations  above 
described  late  into  the  night  of  the 
19th  June,  Sir  Hugh  regained  the 
whole  place  —  Morar,  the  city,  the 
Lashkar  —  everything  but  the  Fort, 
which  was  held*  by  a  few  fanatics,  who 
had  fired  on  our  advancing  troops 
whenever  they  could  throughout  the 
day,  and  reoommenced  the  following 
morning. 

"On  the  morning  of  the  20th, 
lieutenant  Rose,  26th  Bombay  Native 
Infantry,  was  in  command  with  a  de- 
tachment of  his  regiment  at  the  kot- 
wali,  or  police-station,  not  far  from  the 
main  gateway  of  the  rock  fort.  As  the 
guns  from  its  ramparts  continued  to 
nre,  Rose  proposed  to  a  brother  officer. 
Lieutenant  Waller,  who  commanded  a 
small  party  of  the  same  regiment  near 
him,  that  they  should  attempt  to 
capture  the  fortress  with  their  joint 
parties,  urging  that  if  the  risk  was 
ffreat,  the  honour  would  be  still  greater. 
Waller  cheerfully  assented,  and  the 
two  officers  set  off  with  their  men  and 
a  blacksmith,  whom,  not  unwilling, 
they  had  engaged  for  the  service. 
They  crept  up  to  the  first  gateway 
unseen.  Then  the  blacksmith,  a 
)K>werful  man,  forced  it  open ;  and  so 
with  the  other  five  gates  that  opposed 
their  progress.  By  the  time  the  sixth 
gate  had  been  forced  the  alarm  was 
given,  and  when  the  assailants  reached 
the  archway  beyond  the  last  gate,  tliey 
were  met  by  the  fire  of  a  gun  which 
had  been  brought  to  bear  on  them. 
Dashing  onwaras,  unscathed  by  the 
fire,  they  were  speedily  engaged  in  a 
haud>to-hand  contest  with  the  garrison. 
The  fiffht  was  desperate,  and  many 
men  fell  on  both  sides.  The  gallantry 
of  Rose  and  Waller  and  their  men 
oarried  all  before  them.  Rose  especially 
distinguished  himself.  Just  in  the 
hour  of  victory,  however,  as  he  was 
indtuAg  his  men  to  make  the  final 
d^aige,    which    proved   8uccossfiil»    a 


musket  was  fired  at  him  from  behind 
the  walL  The  man  who  had  fiied  the 
shot, .  a  mutineer  from  Baraili,  then 
rushed  out  and  cut  him  down.  Waller 
came  up,  and  despatched  the  rebel ; 
too  late,  however,  to  save  his  friend. 
But  the  rock  fortress  was  gained,"  and 
continued  in  British  hands  till  1886. 

The  New  City  or  Laahkar.— When 
Daulat  Rao  Sindia  obtained  possession 
of  Gwalior  in  1794-1805,  he  pitched 
his  camp  on  the  open  plain  to  the  S. 
of  the  fort.  As  the  camp  remained, 
the  tents  soon  disappeared,  and  a  new 
city  rapidly  sprung  up,  which  still 
retains  the  name  of  Lashkar,  or  the 
camp,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  old 
city  of  Gwalior.  The  Sarafa,  or  mer- 
chants' quarter,  is  one  of  the  finest 
streets  in  India.  In  the  Phul  Bagh  is  the 
Modern  Palace  of  Maharaja  Sindia 
(not  shown  to  visitors).  In  the  centre 
of  Lashkar  is  the  Barak,  or  Old  Palace, 
and  near  it  are  the  houses  of  the  chief 
Sardars,  or  nobles,  of  the  state. 

The  new  buildings  worthy  of  a  visit 
are  the  Dufferin  Sarai,  the  Victoria 
College,  and  the  Tayagi  Mao  Memorial 
Hospital.  The  modem  Temple  was 
erected  by  Sindia's  mother,  and  is 
mentioned  by  Fergusson. 

Since  the  occupation  of  the  Lashkar, 
the  Old  City  has  been  gradually  decay- 
ing, and  is  now  only  one-third  as  large 
as  the  New  City.  But  the  two  together 
still  form  one  of  the  populous  places  in 
India. 

The  Old  City  of  Gwalior  is  a  crowded 
mass  of  small  flat-roofed  stone  houses. 
Flanking  the  city  to  the  N.  stands  a 
curious  old  Pathan  archway,  the  re- 
mains of  a  tomb.  Outside  t^e  gates  is 
the  JunmuL  Mnsjid,  with  its  gUt  pin- 
nacled domes  and  lofty  minarets.  Sir 
W.  Sleeman  says  {Rambles,  i.  347): 
"It  is  a  very  beautiful  mosque,  with 
one  end  built  by  Muhammad  Khan,  in 
1665  A.D.,  of  the  white  sandstone  of 
the  rock  above  it  It  looks  as  fresh  as 
if  it  had  not  been  finished  a  month." 
It  has  the  usual  two  minars,  and  oTtf 
the  arches  and  alcoves  are  carved  pas- 
sages from  the  Koran  in  beautiful  Enfilr 
characters. 

Beyond  the  stream,  and  just  on  tbs 
outskirta  of  the  city,  is  the  noble  tomb 


ROUTE  5a.       GWALIOR  FORT 


97 


of  the  Muliamxnad  Ghana,  a  saint 
venerated  in  the  time  of  Babar  and 
Akbar.  It  is  of  stone,  and  is  one  of 
the  best  specimens  of  Mohammedan 
architectnre  of  the  early  Mogul  period. 
It  was  built  in  the  early  part  of 
Akbar's  reign,  and  is  a  square  of  ^00 
ft.,  with  hexagonal  towers  at  the  four 
comers,  attached  at  the  angles  instead  of 
the  sides.  The  tomb  is  a  hall  43  t. 
8q.,  with  the  angles  cut  off  by  pointed 
arches,  from  which  springs  a  lofty 
Pathan  dome.  The  walls  are  5i  ft. 
thick,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  lofty 
yerandah,  with  square  bays  in  centre 
of  each  side,  enclosed  by  stone  lattices 
of  the  most  intricate  and  elaborate 
patterns.  These  are  protected  from 
the  weather  by  very  bold  eaves,  sup- 
ported on  long  stone  slabs  resting  on 
brackets.  The  building  is  of  yellowish 
gray  sandstone.  The  dome  was  once 
covered  with  blue  glazed  tiles.  The 
whole  is  choked  with  whitewash. 

Tomb  of  Tansen,  the  famous  musi- 
dan,  is  a  small  open  building  22  ft. 
aq.,  supported  on  pillars  round  the 
tombstone.  It  is  close  to  the  S.W. 
eomer  of  the  large  tomb ;  hence  it  is 
ifhonght  he  became  a  Moslem.  The 
I  tamarind  tree  near  the  tomb  is  much 
I  visited  by  musicians,  as  the  chewing  of 
j  tiie  leaves  is  alleged  to  impart  a  won- 
I  derful  sweetness  to  the  voice.  Lloyd, 
:  m  1820,  in  his  Jov/mey  to  Kwnawar,  i. 
p.  9,  says  that  this  is  still  religiously 
oelieved  by  all  dancing  girls.  They 
stripped  the  original  tree  of  its  leaves 
till  it  died,  and  the  present  tree  is  a 
I  seedling  of  the  original  one. 

To  see  GKralior  Fort  cm  order  is 
j  necessary :  it  can  be  obtained  at  the 
I  Kesidency  Office,  or  from  the  keeper  of 
I  the  Mnsafir  Ehana  (the  Maharaja's 
;  bungalow  for  strangers).  The  rest- 
house  keeper  will  make  arrangements 
for  the  elephant  which  the  Maharaja 
kindly  puts  at  the  disposal  of  visitors, 
to  meet  them  at  the  foot  of  the  steep 
ascent  to  the  Fort. 

"The  great  fortress  of  Gwalior," 
says  General  Cunningham,  "is  situated 
on  a  precipitous,  flat-topped,  and  iso- 
lated nill  of  sandstone,**  which  rises  300 
ft.  above  the  town  at  the  N.  end,  but 
[India] 


only  274  ft.  at  the  upper  gate  of  the 
principal  entrance.  The  hill  is  long  and 
narrow ;  its  extreme  length  from  N.  to 
S.  is  If  m.,  while  its  breadth  varies  from 
600  ft  to  2800  ft  The  walls  are  from 
80  to  35  ft  high,  and  the  rock  imme- 
diately below  them  is  steeply  but 
irregularly  scarped  all  round  the  hill. 

The  objects  of  chief  interest  are  all  in 
the  Fort,  with  the  exception  of  the  tomb 
of  Muhammad  Ghaus,  which  is  passed 
on  the  way  there.  Notice  especially  the 
gateways,  the  Man,  Karan,  and  Vikram 
palaces,  the  Sas  Bahu  temples,  the  Jain 
and  the  Teli-Ea-Mandir  temples,  and 
the  gigantic  rock-cut  figures. 

The  view  from  the  Fort  is  varied  and 
extensive,  but,  except  during  the  rainy 
season,  when  the  hills  are  green,  the 
general  appearance  of  the  country  is 
brown  and  arid.  To  the  N.,  on  a 
clear  day,  may  be  seen  the  gigantic 
temple  of  Sahamiya,  about  30  m. 
distant,  and  still  farther  in  the  same 
direction  the  red  hills  of  Dholpur. 
To  the  W.  and  within  gunshot  lies  the 
long  flat -topped  sandstone  hill  of 
Hanuman,  with  a  basaltic  peak  at  the 
N.  end,  and  a  white-washed  temple  on 
its  slope,  whence  the  hiU  has  its 
name.  Beyond,  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  nothing  is  seen  but  range  after 
range  of  low  sandstone  hills.  The 
conical  peak  of  the  Raipur  hill  towers 
over  the  lower  ranges  in  the  S.,  and  to 
the  E.  the  level  plains,  dotted  with 
villages,  lengthen  till  they  pass  out  of 
sight  On  me  plain  below  lies  the  Old 
City  of  Gwalior,  encircling  the  N.  end 
of  the  fortress,  and  to  the  S. ,  upwards 
of  1  m.  distant,  is  the  New  City  of 
Lashkarf  literally  **cainp." 

The  main  entrance  to  the  Fort  is  on 
the  N.E.  The  ascent  was  formerly  by 
many  flights  of  broad  steps  alternating 
with  pieces  of  paved  level  road,  but 
these  nave  been  removed,  and  there  is 
now  a  continuous  road.  The  entrance 
on  the  N.E.  is  protected  by  6  Gates 
which,  beginning  from  the  N.,  are — 

The  *-<4towgrm  gate  built  by  Mu'tamad 
Khan,  Governor  of  Gwalior,  in  1660, 
and  called  after  Aurangzib,  one  of  whose 
titles  was  'Alamgir.  It  is  quite  plain, 
and  the  inscription  is  obliterated. 
Inside  is  a  small  courtyard,  and  an 


98 


ROUTE  6a.       AGRA  TO  MANIKPUB 


India 


open  hall  in  which  the  Mohammedan 
^ovemorssat  to  dispense  juatice,  whence 
it  is  called  the  Outeherry, 

The  BadalgaTh  or  Hmdola  cate  has 
its  name  from  the  outwork  Baaalgarh, 
which  was  called  from  Badal  Sing,  the 
uncle  of  Man  Sing.  This  gate  is  also 
called Hindola,  from  hindol, ' *aswing, " 
which  existed  outside.  It  Ib  a  fine 
specimen  of  Hindu  architecture.  An 
inscription  on  an  iron  plate  records 
its  restoration  by  the  Qovemor  Saiyad 
'Alam  in  1648. 

Close  under  the  rock  to  the  rt.  is 
the  stately  Chijari  Palace,  built  for  the 
queen  of  Man  Sing.  It  measures  SOO 
ft.  by  280  ft.,  and  is  two  stories  high. 
It  is  built  of  hewn  stone,  but  is  much 
mined. 

The  Bhairon  or  Bansur  gate  has  its 
name  from  one  of  the  earliest  Kach- 
hwahaBngahs.  It  iscalled  Bansur,  from 
bansoTj  ''an  archer,"  lit.  ''a  bamboo- 
splitter,"  a  man  who  had  the  charge 
or  it  On  one  of  the  jambs  is  an  in- 
scription dated  1485  a.d.,  a  year  before 
the  accession  of  Man  Sing. 

The  Oamssh  OaU  was  built  by  Dun- 
gareli,  who  reigned  1424  to  1454.  Out- 
side is  a  small  outwork  called  KaJmtar 
KKana,  or  "pigeon  house,"  in  which 
is  a  tank  called  Nur  Sauffar,  60  ft  x 
89  ft  and  25  ft  deep.  Here,  too,  is  a 
Hindu  temple  sacred  to  the  hermit 
OwaUpa,  from  whom  the  fort  had  its 
name.  It isasmallsquareopen pavilion, 
with  a  cupola  on  4  pillara.  ^ere  is 
also  a  small  mosque  with  an  inscription 
which  Cunningham  thus  translates  : — 

In  the  reign  of  the  great  Prince  'Alamgir, 

Like  the  fUll-shining  moon, 

The  enlightener  of  the  world, 

Praise  be  to  God  that  this  happy  place 

Was  by  M'utamad  Khan  completed 

As  a  charitable  gift. 

It  was  the  idol-temple  of  the  vile  Owali. 

He  made  it  a  mosque 

Like  a  mansion  of  Paradise. 

The  Khan  of  enlightened  heart, 

Nay,  light  itself  from  head  to  fbot. 

Displayed  thedivinelightlikethat  of  mid-day. 

He  closed  tixe  idol  temple. 

Then  follows  the  chronogram  giving 
a  date  corresponding  to  1664  A.D. 

Before  reaching  the  Lakshman  Oate 
is  a  temple  hewn  out  of  the  solid 
rook  and  called  C^uUur-bht^-mandir, 
**  shrine  of  the  four-armed,"  sacred  to 


Vishnu,  inside  which,  on  the  left,  is  a 
long  inscription,  dated  Samwat  933= 
876  A.  D.  It  is  12  ft.  sq.,  with  a  portieo 
in  front  10  ft  by  9  ft.  supported  by  four 
pillars.  There  is  a  tank  here,  and 
opposite  to  it  the  tomb  of  Taj  Nizain, 
a  noble  of  the  Court  of  Ibrahim  Lodi, 
who  was  killed  in  assaulting  this  gata 
in  1518  A.D.  Between  the  gates  on  tha 
face  of  the  rock  are  carvings  of  Mahadeo 
and  his  consort,  and  about  50  Lingams. 
There  was  a  colossal  group  of  the  Boar 
incarnation,  15^  ft  high,  which  Cun- 
ningham thinks  to  be  one  of  the  oldest 
sculptures  in  Gwalior ;  it  is  quite 
defaced.  A  fi^re  of  an  elephant  over 
the  statue  has  oeen  cut  away  to  form  a 
canopy. 

The  Hathiya  Pwwr,  or  Elephant  Gate, 
was  built  by  Man  Sing,  and  forms  part 
of  his  palace.  Here  was  tiie  carving  of 
an  elephant,  which  Babar  and  Abu-l- 
Fazl  praised. 

There  are  three  gates  ontheN.W.  side 
of  the  Fort,  which  have  the  general 
name  of  DHonda  Faur,  from  an  earlv 
Eachhwaha  Bajah.  In  an  upper  outwork 
the  state  prisoners  used  to  be  confined. 

The  S.  W.  entrance  is  called  Ohar- 
gharj  Paur,  or  Gurgling  Gate,  either 
from  a  well  of  that  name  inside,  oc 
from  a  redoubt.  It  has  five  gates  in 
succession,  three  of  which  were  breached 
bv  General  White.  This  entrance  is 
also  called  Popham  by  the  natives,  in 
memory  of  its  capture  in  1780  by 
Captain  Bruce,  brother  of  the  tra- 
veller, who  was  an  officer  of  Popham's 
force.  The  escalading  party  had  grass* 
shoes  furnished  them  to  prevent  them 
slipping,  and  the  cost  of  these  shoei 
is  said  to  have  been  deducted  froml 
Popham's  pay. 

Gwalior  has  always  been  thought 
one  of  the  most  impregnable  fortre^! 
in  Upper  India,  and  is  superior  to; 
most  in  an  unfailing  supply  of  waterj 
in  tanki,  cisterns,  and  weUs.  Theii 
are  several  wells  in  the  Urwahi  outn 
work,  and  the  water  in  them  is  alway^ 
sweet  and  wholesome,  and  is  now  ths 
only  ffood  drinking  water  in  the  fort 
The  Huraj  Eund,  or  Sun  pool,  was 
built  about  275  to  300  a.d.  ,  and  is  the 
oldest  in  the  fort  It  is  350  ft  by  180 
ft.,  with  a  variable  depth.     It  is  situ- 


BOUTB  5a.      GWALIOB  FOBT 


99 


ated  abont  500  ft.  N.W.  of  the  Sas- 
bahu  Temple.  The  Trikonia  Tank  is 
at  the  extreme  N.  point  of  the  Fort, 
near  the  Jayanti-thora,  where  are  two 
inscriptions,  dated  1408  A.D.,  and  a 
little  earlier.  The  Johara  tank  is  in 
the  N.  of  the  Fort,  in  front  of  Shah 
Jehan's  palace,  and  has  its  name  from 
the  Johar,  or  sacrifice  of  the  Rajput 
women  there  when  Altamsh  took  the 
place.  The  Sas-bahu  tank,  ''mother- 
m-law  and  daughter-in-law,'-'  is  near 
the  Padmanath  temple,  and  is  250  ft 
by  150  ft.,  and  15  ft.  to  18  ft  deep, 
but  usually  dry,  as  the  water  runs 
through.  The  Grangola  Tank  is  in  the 
middle  of  the  Fort,  is  200  ft.  sq.,  and 
always  has  deep  water  on  the  S.  side. 
The  Dhobi  tank,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
Fort,  is  the  largest  of  all,  being  400  ft. 
by  200  ft.,  but  it  is  very  shallow. 

There  are  six  Palaces,  or  mandirs, 
in  the  Fort.  (1)  The  Oujari,  already 
mentioned. 

(2)  The  Han  Sing  Palace  (1486- 
1516,  repaired  in  1881),  rt.  on  entering 
the  Fort,  is  on  the  edge  of  the  E.  clifT 
It  was  also  called  the  Chit  Mandir, 
or  painted  palace,  as  'Hhe  waUs  are 
coTered  with  a  profusion  of  coloured 
tiles — bands  of  mosaique  candelabra, 
Brahmin  ducks,  elephants,  and  pea- 
cocks— enamelled  blue,  green  and  gold, 
giyinff  to  this  massive  wall  an  unsur- 
passed charm  and  elegance.  The  tiles 
of  this  great  windowless  wall  possess 
a  brightness  and  delicacy  of  tint  un- 
blemished by  the  10  centuries  which 
they  have  weathered.  Nowhere  do  I 
remember  any  architectural  design 
capable  of  imparting  similar  lightness 
to  a  simple  massive  wall.  The  secret 
of  these  enamelled  tiles  has  not  yet 
been  discovered  "  (Rouselet).  It  is  two 
stories  high,  with  two  stories  of  under- 
ground apartments,  now  uninhabitable 
from  the  bats.  The  E.  &ce  is  300  ft. 
long  and  100  ft.  high,  and  has  five 
massive  round  towers,  surmounted  by 
open-domed  cupolas,  and  connected  at 
top  by  a  battlement  of  singularly  beauti- 
ful open  lattice-work.  The  S.  face  is 
160  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  high,  with  three 
round  towers  connected  by  a  battlement 
of  lattice- work.  The  N.  and  W.  sides 
are  much  ruined.     The   rooms   are 


arranged  round  two  courts, — small  but 
with  singularly  beautiful  decoration. 

(3)  The  Palace  of  Vikram  is  between 
the  Man  and  Earan  palaces,  and  con- 
nected with  them  by  narrow  ealleries. 

(4)  The  Karan  PaZace  should  be 
called  the  Eirti  Mandir.  It  is  long 
and  narrow,  and  of  two  stories.  It  has 
one  room  43  ft.  by  28  ft.,  with  a  roof 
supported  by  two  rows  of  pillars.  There 
are  smaller  rooms  on  either  side,  and 
bath-rooms  below,  with  some  fine 
plaster-work  on  the  domed  ceilings. 
Close  by  to  the  S.  is  a  hall  (1516  A.D.) 
36  ft.  sq.,  and  the  roof  is  a  singular 
Hindu  dome  supported  on  eight  curved 
ribs,  of  which  four  spring  from  the  side 
pillars  and  four  from  the  angles  of  the 
building.  Internally  the  &p  of  the 
dome  is  a  flat  square  formed  by  the 
intersection  of  the  ribs.  The  roof  is 
flat,  and  once  had  a  pavilion  on  it. 

(5)  The  Jehangiri  and  (6)  S?iah 
Jehan  PaZaces,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Fort, 
are  of  rubble  plastered,  and  are  quite 
plain  and  of  no  architectural  interest. 

There  are  11  Hindu  temples  which 
have  been  desecrated  by  the  Mohamme- 
dans, but  are  still  visited  by  Hindus  at 
stated  times.  These  are  (i.)  the  OvjcUipa, 
and  (ii.)  the  Ohatwr-bhvjf  both  already 
mentioned,  (iii)  The  Jayanti-thora 
was  destroyed  by  Altamsh  in  1232 
A.D.,  but  its  position  is  shown  by  the 
name  given  to  the  most  N.  point  of  the 
Fort,  where  there  is  a  deep  rock -cut 
well  and  some  pillared  arcades  with 
inscrip^ons  dated  1400  to  1419  a.d. 
(iv.)  The  TeU-Ka- Mandir  (probable 
date,  11th  cent.,  restored  1881-83) 
is  in  the  centi-e  of  the  Fort,  overlooking 
the  UrwahL  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  built  by  a  Teli^  or  oUrnan.  It  is 
60  ft.  sq.,  with  a  portico  projecting  11 
ft  on  the  E.  side.  The  sides  slope 
upwards  to  80  ft.,  where  the  building 
ends  in  a  horizontal  ridge  30  ft.  long. 
It  is  the  loftiest  building  in  Gwalior. 
The  doorway  is  85  ft  high,  and  has  a 
figure  of  Garuda  over  the  centre.  It 
was  originally  a  Vishnavite  Tepaple, 
but  since  the  15  th  cent,  it  has  been 
Shivite.  The  whole  of  this  very  mas- 
sive building  is  covered  with  sculptures. 
The  gateway  in  front  of  it  was  formed 
out  of  fragments^fo^^.ji^Jljh^pc^  br 


YSW^"? 


100 


RonTB  5a.  agba  to  maniepub 


India 


Major  Keith.  The  scnlptured  frag- 
ments set  up  round  the  temple  were 
also  collected  by  him. 

(y.  yI.)  The  Sas-bahn  or  SaMsra 
bahttf  "mother-in-law"  and  "daughter- 
in-law,"  or  1000-armed  templesi  are  two 
temples,  a  large  and  smaller  one  near 
the  middle  of  the  £.  wall  of  the  Fort. 
There  is  a  long  inscription  inside  the 
portico,  with  the  date  1093  A.  P. 
There  are  figures  of  Vishnu  over  the 
main  entrances.  The  great  temple,  said 
to  have  been  built  by  Rajah  Mahipal, 
is  100  ft.  long  by  63  ft.  broad.  The 
entrance  is  to  the  N.,  and  the  adytum 
to  the  S.  The  temple  is  now  70  ft. 
high,  but  the  top  has  been  broken, 
and  General  Cunningham  thinks  it  was 
once  100  ft.  high.  It  stands  on  a  richly- 
carved  plinth.  The  central  hall  is  81 
ft.  sq.  It  is  crowded  with  four  massive 
pillars  to  aid  in  bearing  the  enormous 
weight  of  its  great  pyramidal  roof. 
The  construction  of  the  roof  is  worthy 
of  study.  The  temple  was  dedicated 
in  1092  A.D.  The  small  Sas-bahu  is 
built  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  but  consists 
of  a  single  story,  and  is  open  on  all  four 
sides.  The  body  is  23  ft.  s(j.,  supported 
on  twelve  pillars.  The  plinth  is  6  ft. 
high,  and  is  decorated  like  that  of  the 
great  temple.  The  pillars  are  round, 
with  octagonal  bases  and  bracketed 
capitals.  The  lower  part  of  the  shafts 
in  both  temples  are  ornamented  with 
groups  of  female  dancers.  It  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  ornate  style  of  medi- 
aeval Hindu  architecture. 

(vii.)  The  Jain  Temple  was  dis- 
covered by  Gen.  Cunningham  in  1844, 
and  is  a  small  building  placed  against 
the  E.  wall  of  the  Fort,  midway 
between  the  Elephant  Gate  and  Sas- 
bahu  temples.  It  was  built  about  1108 
A.D.  The  four  other  temples,  Surya 
Deva,  Mala  Deva,  Dhonda  Deva,  and 
Maha  Deva,  are  of  less  importance. 

*'The  Rock  Sculptures  of  Gwalior," 
the  same  authority  writes,  **are  unique 
in  Northern  India,  as  well  for  their 
number  as  for  their  gigantic  size. 
They  are  all  excavated  in  the  steep 
cliff,  immediately  below  the  walls  of 
the  fortress,  and  are  most  of  them  easily 
accessible.  There  are  small  caves  and 
niches  in  almost  every  place  where  the 


face  of  the  rock  is  tolerably  smooth 
and  steep,  but  the  more  prominent 
excavations  may  be  dividea  into  five 
principal  groups,  which  I  will  designate 
according  to  tneir  positions,  as  Irt,  the 


Urwahi  group ;  2a,  the  south-western 
group ;  3d,  the  north-western  group ; 
4th,  the  north-eastern  group ;  5th,  uie 


south-eastern  group.  Of  these  the 
first  and  the  last,  wnich  are  by  &r  the 
most  considerable,  both  in  number  and 
size,  are  the  only  sculptures  that  have 
attracted  travellers.  Most  of  them 
were  mutilated,  by  order  of  the  Emperor 
Babar  1527  a.d.,  only  60  years  after 
they  were  made.  Babar  himself  records 
the  fjMt  in  his  Memoirs  :  *  They  have 
hewn  the  solid  rock  of  this  Adtoa,  and 
sculptured  out  of  it  idols  of  larger  and 
smaller  size.  On  the  south  part  of  it 
is  a  large  idol,  which  may  be  about  40 
ft.  in  height.  These  figures  are  perfectly 
naked,  without  even  a  rag  to  cover  the 
parts  of  generation.  Advsa  is  far  from 
being  a  mean  place ;  on  the  contrary  it 
is  extremely  pleasant.  The  greatest 
fault  consists  in  the  idol  figures  all 
about  it.  I  directed  these  idols  to  be  de- 
strayed,  '  The  statues,  however,  were  not 
destroyed,  but  only  mutilated,  and  the 
broken  heads  have  since  been  repaired 
by  the  Jains  with  coloured  stucco. 

"The  Urwahi  group  is  situated  in  the 
cliff  of  the  S.  side  of  the  Urwahi  valley, 
and  consists  of  22  principal  figures,  all 
of  which  are  naked.  The  figures  are 
accompanied  by  six  inscriptions,  dated 
Samwatl497, 1510  =  1440  A.D.  and  1453, 
during  the  sway  of  the  Turaara  Rajahs. 
The  chief  statues  are,  No.  17,  a  colossal 
figure  of  Adinath,  the  first  Jain  pontiff, 
who  is  known  by  the  symbol  of  a  bull 
on  the  pedestal.  This  has  a  long  in- 
scription dated  1440  a.d.  in  the  reign 
of  Dungar  Sing,  which  has  been  trans- 
lated by  Rajendralala  Mitra  (see  Beng, 
As.  Soc.  Jour,  1862,  p.  423).  The 
largest  figure  of  this  group,  and  of  all 
the  Gwalior  sculptures,  is  the  colossus 
No.  20,  which  Babar  says  is  40  ft, 
high.  Its  actual  height,  however,  is 
67  ft.,  or  6J  times  the  length  of  the 
foot,  which  is  just  9  ft.  In  front  of  the 
statue  is  a  small  figure  with  a  squat- 
ting figure  on  each  of  its  four  faces. 
The  extreme  W.  figure  of  this  group, 


BOUTB  5A.       book  sculptures 


101 


Ko.  22,  is  a  seated  colossus  upwards 
of  30  ft  high,  of  Nemnath,  22d  Jain 
pontiff,  known  by  a  shell  on  the  pedes- 
tal Besides  the  22  figures  there  are  a 
few  isolated  excavations  to  the  right 
and  left,  now  inaccessible  from  the 
falling  of  the  rock-cat  steps. 

"  Tjne  south-western  grmp  consists  of 
five  principal  figures,  situated  in  the 
cUff  immediately  below  the  one-pillar 
tank,  and  just  outside  the  Urwahi  wall. 
No.  2  is  a  sleeping  female  8  ft  long, 
lying  on  her  side,  with  her  head  to  the 
S.  and  face  to  the  W.  Both  thighs  are 
straight,  but  the  left  leg  is  bent  back 
nndemeath  the  right  leg.  The  figure 
is  highly  polished.  No.  3  is  a  seated 
group  of  a  male  and  female  with  a 
child,  who  are  Siddhartha  and  Trisala, 
the  reputed  father  and  mother  of  the 
infEint  Mahavira,  the  last  of  the  24  Jain 
pontiffs.  The  sleeping  female  also  is 
probably  intended  for  Trisala,  to  whose 
womb,  when  she  was  asleep,  the  foetus 
of  Mahavira  is  said  to  have  been  trans- 
ferred from  its  true  Brahman  mother. 

"The  north-tvestem  grovp  is  in  the 


W.  cliff  of  the  Fort,  immediately  N.  of 
the  Dhonda  gate.  The  figures  are  un- 
important, but  one  of  them,  Adinath, 
has  an  inscription  dated  Samwat  1527 
=  1470  A.D. 

**The  Tunih-eastem  group  is  in  the 
cliff  under  the  Mohanmiedan  palaces, 
and  above  the  middle  gateways  of  the 
E.  entrance.  The  sculptures  are  small, 
and  unaccompanied  by  inscriptions,  and 
are,  therefore,  unimportant.  One  or 
two  of  the  caves  are  large,  but  now  very 
difficult  of  access. 

**The  sotUh-eastern  group  is  in  the 
long,  straight  cliff  of  the  E.  face,  just 
under  the  Ganeola  tank.  This  is  by  far 
the  largest  and  most  important  group, 
as  there  are  18  colossal  statues  from  20 
to  30  ft  high,  and  as  many  more  from  8 
ft  to  16  ft,  which  occupy  the  whole  face 
of  the  cliff  for  upwards  of  J  m.  A  few 
caves  are  blocked  up,  and  occupied  by 
surly  mendicant  Byragis,  who  refuse  all 
admittance,  but  there  is  no  reason  to  sup- 
pose they  differ  from  the  other  caves." 

The  details  are  here  as  tabulated  by 
General  Cunningham. 


Oavxs. 

SOULPTURBS. 

Dates. 

No. 

Front  depth 
and  height 

Names. 

Position. 

Height. 

Symbol. 

Samwat. 

A.D. 

Feet. 

Frtt 

1 

23x21x27 

ao 

^ — 

— 

— 

2 

10x10x10 

. 

. 

^ 

— 

8 

15x12x17 

Adinath 

StAiidins 

7 

BuU 

1530 

1478 

4  olhera 

— 

— 

15S0 

1473 

4 

15x14x16 

Adinatik 

U 

Wheal 

IA25 

1468 

Xeminatll 



MhuU 

132£ 

1468 

5 

Adluath 

— 

Bull 

1525 

1468 

6 

26x12x16 

Supadma 

Sitting 

15 

IjjUm 



— 

7 

15x10x20 

Htamllug 

20 

— 

— 

— 

8 

21X10X20 

Adinath 

Bitting 

6 

^- 



— 

9 

16X  7x28 

Male  flgtire 

Standing 

21 

— 

— 

— 

10 

lOx  7x15 

Feii^ale 

Lyiiig 

.^- 

— 

■ — 

— 

Chandra  pi  abha 

Stahdiug 

12 

— 

■.^- 

— 

2  Othens 

12 

■^- 

— . 

— 

11 

12x  8X25 

Chandraprttbha 

Sitting 

21 

Creaetiht 

1^-2^ 

1469 

12 

31x10x25 

Simbhun^th 

21 

Uoi^e 

— 

— 

18 

40X10X25 

Neiniiiatli 

Standing 

SI 

Shell 

Jb27 

1470 

Sarabhiinath 

Sitting 

— 

— 

— 

— 

Mahavira 

standing 

— 

Horae 

1535 

1468 

14 

26x16x32 

Adtnath 

SEttlng 

nil 

Ltoii 

1525 

1468 

15 

26x16x33 

Adinath 

yittiiig 

24 

Ban 

■^^ 

— . 

16 

24X22X34 

. — 

1      \iO 

— 

^- 

— 

17 

80x  8X30 

KunthuTiath 

SSIiiiLding 

26 



^- 

— 

ShanLanath 

^ 

Go*t 

15^5 

1408 

Adinatb 

2d 

ADt«lopQ 

Wheel 

— 

And  4  oth«ri 

30 

— 

— 

18     15x10x80 

Standing 

26 

— 

— 

19     16X10X80 

26 

^^ 

— 

— 

20    12x  8X20 

Adinath 

s 

WLmI 

^ 

~- 

21     27X86X16 

■ 

— 

' — 

'^* 

^ 

102 


BOUTB  6a.      AGRA  TO  IIAVIKPITR 


Iiidia 


The  first  European  who  describes 
these  statues  was  Father  Montserrat, 
who  visited  Gwalior  on  his  way  from 
Surat  to  Delhi,  in  the  reign  of  Akbar 
(see  As.  Besearch^es,  ix.  p.  213). 

The  Prisons  are  in  a  small  outwork 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  fort,  above  the 
Dhonda  gate.  They  are  called  the  Nau- 
chokif  nine  cells,  and  are  well  lighted 
and  well  ventilated  ;  but  must  have 
been  insufierablv  close  in  the  hot 
season.  Here  Akbar  confined  his  re- 
bellious cousins,  and  Aurangzib  his  son 
Muhammad,  and  the  sons  of  Dara  and 
Murad. 


122  m.  Datia  sta.  A  town  of  28, 000 
inhabitants,  the  residence  of  the  Chief 
of  the  Datia  state,  which  contains  an 
area  of  836  sq.  m. 

The  town  stands  on  a  rocky  height 
surrounded  by  a  good  stone  wall.  It 
is  full  of  picturesque  houses  and  palaces. 

The  Kaja's  present  residence  stands 
within  the  town  surrounded  by  a  pretty 
garden.  To  the  "W.  of  the  town,  beyond 
the  walls,  is  a  very  large  palace  of 
great  architectural  oeauty,  now  un- 
tenanted. A  group  of  Jain  temples, 
4  m.  distant,  are  curious.  Datia  is  a 
place  the  lover  of  the  picturesque  should 
not  pass  by. 

138  m.  Jhansijunc.  sta.  (seep.  90). 

From  Jhansi  7  m.  Orchha  sta.  is  the 
old  capital  of  Orchha  state,  the  oldest 
and  highest  in  rank  of  all  the  Bundela 
Principalities,  and  the  only  one  of  them 
that  was  not  held  in  subjection  by  the 
Peshwa.  It  is  built  on  botii  banks  of 
the  Betwa.  There  is  an  imposing 
fortress,  connected  by  a  wooden  bridge 
with  the  rest  of  the  town,  containing 
the  former  residence  of  the  Rajah,  and  a 
palace  built  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  Emperor  Jehangir. 

Tehri  (Tekamgarh),  the  present 
capital,  in  the  S.  W.  comer  of  the  state, 
is  about  40  m.  S.  from  Orchha,  with 
which  town  and  Baumari  it  is  connected 
by  road. 

18  m.  Barwa-Sangar  sta.,  D.B.  The 
town  is  picturesauely  situated  at  the 
foot  of  a  rocky  riage  on  the  shore  of  the 


Barwa-Saugar  Lake,  an  artificial  sheet  of 
water  formed  by  a  masonry  embank- 
ment 2  m.  in  length,  constructed  by 
Udit  Sing,  Baja  of  Orchha,  between 
1705-37,  containing  two  craggy,  wooded 
islets.  Below,  a  trs^t  of  land,  extending 
over  4  m.,  is  thickly  planted  with  mango 
and  other  trees,  often  of  ereat  age  and 
enormous  size.  N.  W.  of  tne  town  rises 
a  fine  old  castle  also  built  by  Udit  Sing, 
but  now  uninhabited.  3  m.  W.  stand 
the  remains  of  an  old  Chandel  temple 
built  of  solid  blocks  of  stone,  carved 
with  the  figures  of  Hindu  gods,  much 
de&ced  by  Mussnlmans.  The  town 
consists  of  three  divisions  separated  by 
stretches  of  cultivated  land,  and  the 
houses  are  prettily  embosomed  in  foli- 
age. 


40  m.  Han  sta.,  D.B.  (pop.  23,500). 
Man  Banipur  is,  next  to  Jnansi,  the 
principal  commercial  town  of  Jhansi 
district.     Its  buildings  are  remarkably 

g'cturesque,  in  the  style  peculiar  to 
undelkund,  with  deep  eaves  between 
the  first  and  second  stones,  and  hanging 
balconies  of  unusual  beauty.  Trees  line 
many  of  the  streets,  and  handsome 
temples  ornament  the  town  ;  the  prin- 
cipal being  that  of  the  Jains  with  two 
solid  spires  and  several  cupolas.  An 
old  bnck- built  Fort  with  bastions 
adjoins  the  bazaar  and  contains  the 
public  oflSces.  The  town  is  of  quite 
modem  commercial  importance,  having 
risen  from  the  position  of  a  small  agri- 
cultural village  since  1785,  through  the 
influx  of  merchants  from  Ohhatarpur. 
Kharwa  cloth  is  manufactured  and 
exported  to  all  parts  of  India. 

67  m.  Jaitpnr  sta.  The  town  was 
formerly  the  capital  of  a  native  state. 
It  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Bela  Tal.  Probably  founded  in 
the  early  part  of  the  18th  century  by 
Jagatraj,  son  of  the  famous  Bundela 
Baja,  Chatar  Sal,  who  built  the  large 
fort  still  in  existence.  The  town 
resembles  a  collection  of  separate  vil- 
lages, fully  2  m.  in  length,  but  very 
narrow.  Handsome  temple  ;  two  forts, 
one  of  which  could  contain  almost 
the  whole  population. 

The  Bela  Tal,  a  tank  or  lake  dammed 


ROUTE  5a.       MAHOBA 


103 


ap  with  solid  masonry  by  the  Ohandel 
ralers  of  Mahoba  in  the  9th  century 
extends  for  5  m.  in  circumference,  but 
is  now  very  shallow,  the  embankment 
having  burst  in  1869. 

86  m.  Mahoba  sta.  D.B.  The  town, 
founded  about  800  a.d.  bv  Raja  Chan- 
dra Varmma,  stands  on  the  side  of  the 
Madan  Saugar  Lake,  constructed  by  the 
Chandel  Bajas,  and  consists  of  three 
distinct  portions — one  N.  of  the  central 
hill  known  as  the  Old  Fort ;  one  on 
the  top  of  the  hill  known  as  the  Inner 
Fort ;  and  one  to  the  S.  known  as  Dariba. 
Architectural  antiquities  of  the  Chandel 
period  abound  throughout  the  neigh- 
bourhood. The  Ram  Kund  marks  the 
place  where  Chandra  Varmma,  founder 
of  the  dynasty,  died  ;  and  the  tank 
is  believed  to  be  a  reservoir  into  which 
the  united  waters  of  all  holy  streams 
pour  themselves.  The  Fort,  now  almost 
mtirely  in  ruins,  commands  a  beautiful 
view  over  the  hills  and  lakes.  The 
temple  of  Munia  Devi,  partially  reno- 
vated, has  in  front  of  its  entrance  a 
stone  pillar  inscribed  to  Madana  Vftrm- 
ma.  Of  the  lakes,  confined  by  magni- 
ficent masonry  dams,  two  have  greatly 
silted  up;  but  the  Kirat  and  Madan 
Saugars,  works  of  the  11th  and  12th 
centuries,  still  remain  deep  and  clear 
sheets  of  water.  The  shores  of  the 
lakes  and  the  islands  in  their  midst 
are  thickly  covered  with  ruined  temples, 
monstrous  figures  carved  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  pillars,  broken  sculpture, 
and  other  early  remains,  while  on  the 
hills  above  stand  the  summer-houses 
of  the  early  Rajas,  and  shrines  over- 
hang the  edge.  Relics  of  Jain  temples 
and  Buddhist  inscriptions  also  occur. 
The  existing  monuments  of  Moham- 
medan date  include  the  tomb  of  Jalhan 
Khan,  constructed  from  the  fragments 
of  a  Shivite  temple,  and  a  mosque  also 
built  of  Chandel  materials. 

The  modern  town  contains  a  tahMly 
police-station,  post  office,  school,  dis- 
pensary, and  D.B. 

[34  m.  S.  of  Mahoba  is  the  ancient 
decayed  town  of  Kliajiiraho,  formerly 
he  capital  of  the  old  province  of 
Jahoti.    Hiouen  Thsang  mentions  it  in 


the  7th  century ;  and  General  Cunning- 
ham attributes  to  the  same  date  a 
single  pillared  temple  called  Ganthai, 
and  a  nigh  mound  which  probably 
conceals  the  ruins  of  a  Buddhist  mon- 
astery. Upwards  of  20  temijles  still 
stand  in  the  town,  and  the  ruins  of  at 
least  as  many  more  bear  witness  to  its 
former  greatness.  In  one  alone  General 
Cunningham  counted  over  800  statues 
half  life-size,  and  8  sculptured  ele- 
phants of  like  proportions.  The  inner 
shrine  of  this  edince  constituted  in  it- 
self a  splendid  temple,  and  was  crowded 
with  figures.  Captain  Burt  noticed 
seven  large  temples  of  exquisite  carving, 
whose  mechanical  construction  adapted 
them  to  last  for  almost  indefinite 
periods.  Most  or  all  of  these  noble 
buildings  and  the  inscriptions  found 
in  the  neighbourhood  must  be  referred 
to  the  Chandel  dynasty,  who  ruled  at 
Khajuraho  apparently  from  870  to  1200 
A.D.  The  modem  village  contains  only 
about  160  houses.] 

119  m.  Bandasta.  i^  (R.),  D.B.,  is  a 
municipal  town  and  the  administrative 
headquarters  of  Banda  district.  It 
stands  on  an  undulating  plain  1  m. 
E.  of  right  bank  of  the  Ken  river. 

The  modem  town  derived  its  im- 
portance from  the  residence  of  the 
Nawab  of  Banda,  and  from  its  position 
as  a  cotton  mart.  After  the  removal 
of  the  Kawab  in  1858  owing  to  his  dis- 
loyalty during  the  Mutiny,  the  town 
began  to  decline,  while  the  growth  of 
Rajapur  as  a  rival  cotton  emporium 
has  largely  deprived  Banda  of  this 
trade.  The  town  is  straggling  and  ill 
built,  but  with  clean  wide  streets. 
It  contains  66  mosques,  161  Hindu 
temples,  and  5  Jain  temples,  some  of 
which  possess  fair  architectural  merit. 

Cantonments  1  m.  from  the  town  on 
the  Fatehpur  Road. 

162  m.  Karwi  sta.  (pop.  4100).  In 
1805  the  town  formed  a  cantonment  for 
British  troops,  and  in  1829  it  became 
the  principal  residence  of  the  Peshwa's 
representative,  who  lived  in  almost 
regal  state,  built  several  beautiful  tem- 
ples and  wells.  Numerous  traders  from 
the  Deccan  were  thus  attracted  to  Earwi. 


104 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


India, 


During  the  Mutiny  Naravan  Rao,  after 
the  murder  at  Banda  of  Mr.  Cockerell, 
Joint-Magistrate  of  Karwi,  assumed  the 
government,  and  retained  his  independ- 
ence for  eight  months  amid  the  subse- 
quent anarchy.  The  accumulations  of 
his  family  constituted  the  great  treasure 
afterwards  so  famous  as  the  '^Kirwee 
and  Banda  Prize  Money. "  It  was  kept 
in  a  vault  of  the  Bara,  a  large  building 
forming  the  palace  of  Narayan  Rao's 
family.  Since  the  Mutiny  the  pro- 
^rity  of  Karwi  has  gradually  declined, 
"niere  is  a  magnificent  t«mple  and  tank 
with  masonry  well  attached,  known  as 
the  Ganesh  Bagh,  built  by  Vinayak  Eao 
in  1837.  There  are  five  mosques  and 
as  many  Hindu  temples. 

181  m.  Hanikpor  junc.  sta.  of  K  I. 
Rly.  and  Jubbulpore  Kly.  (see  p.  36.) 


ROUTE  6 

Bombay  to  Delhi  through  Baroda, 
Ahmedabad,   AncERE,   Bandikui, 

AND  JeYPORB. 

Rail.  890  m.  Mail  trains  40}  hrs.  in 
transit.  Through  fares  approximately, 
first  class  56  rs.,  second  class  28  rs., 
and  servants  9  rs.  For  some  railway 
rules  see  Rte.  1,  p.  26.  The  route 
is  throughout  by  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I. 
Rly.  There  is  a  chan^  of  ^uge  at 
Ahmedabad.  The  stations  in^ombay 
are  Colabay^  Chwrch  Gate  Station,  and 
Grant  Road,  where  ample  time  is  given. 

9  m.  Hahim  sta.,  where  the  rly. 
crosses  a  causeway  connecting  the 
island  of  Bombay  with  the  island  of 
Salsette.  The  country  is  flat,  studded 
with  villages  and  cocoa-nut  groves. 

The  Scottish  Orphanage,  established 
here  in  1859,  is  the  only  institution  of 
the  kind  in  the  Bombay  Presidency. 

10  m.  Bandara sta.,  1.,  on  sea-shore,  a 
favourite  residence  for  persons  who  have 
daily  business  in  Bombay  ;  it  is  nearly 
surrounded  by  water,  and  is  cooler  than 
Bombay.  Several  ciiapels  built  by  the 
Portuguese  still  exist  here,  notably 
that  of  Movmi  Uary^  held  in  respect 

*i  It  is  advisable  to  start  fh>m  the  Golaba 
terminus  to  ensure  getting  places. 


for  miles  around  by  all  the  iHhabitantu, 
Christian  and  otherwise. 

Here  are  a  R.  C.  convent  for  orphans, 
and  a  school  for  orphan  boys. 

18  m.  Qoregaon  sta.  About  1  mile 
from  the  sta.  are  the  famous  Hindu 
caves  of  Jogeshwar.  See  "  Sights  m 
the  vicinity  of  Bombay,  No.  (6),  p.  25» 

22  m.  Boriyli  sta.  is  near  the  Gavel 
of  Montpt'zir  (see  p.  22)  and  the  roini 
of  a  Jesuit  monastery  of  the  16tl 
century.  The  Caves  of  Kanheri  (see  pi 
23)  are  only  5  m.  distant,  but  are  mon 
easily  visited  from  the  Tald  Lake. 

22  m.  Bhayandar  sta.,  on  the  3 
edffe  of  the  Baissein  creek,  which  dividd 
Sal^tte  from  the  mainland.  Persoi 
who  have  made  arrangements  to  visi 
the  ruins  of  Bassein  by  boat  or  by  steal 
launch,  embark  at  this  station.  Thera3 
way  here  crosses  the  river  by  a  very  Iod 
bridge.  On  the  right,  and  for  some  mill 
up  the  stream,  the  scenery  is  mo 
beautiful — the  Eamandru^  Hills  anfl 
Ghodbandar,  with  the  quiet  water  be- 1 
tween  them,  forming  a  tropical  landscape 
as  icharming  as  can  be  seen  in  India.^ 

88  UL  Basseiii  Boad  sta.,  ^D.B. 
The  ruins  are  distant  about  5  m. 

The  first  notice  we  have  of  Bassein 
is  in  1532,  when  the  Portuguese  ravaged 
the  neighbourhood  and  burned  all  the 
towns  between  it  and  Chikli  Tara- 
pur.  In  1534  they  took  Damsm,  which 
they  still  hold,  and  obli^d  Sultan 
Bahadur  of  Guzerat,  thenhard  pressed  by 
the  Emperor  Humayun,  to  cede  Bassein 
in  pernetuity.  "For  more  than  200 
years  Bassein  remained  in  the  hands  of 
the  Portuguese,  and  during  this  time 
it  rose  to  such  prosperity  that  the  city 
came  to  be  called  the  Court  of  the 
Korth,  and  its  nobles  were  proverbial  for 
their  wealth  and  magnificence.  With 
plentiful  supplies  of  both  timber  and 
stone,  Bassein  was  adorned  by  many 
noble  buildings,  including  a  cathedral, 
5  convents,  13  churches,  and  an  asylum 
for  orphans.  The  dwellings  of  the 
Hidalgos,  or  aristocracy,  who  alone  were 
allowed  to  live  within  the  city  walls, 

1  Write  beforehand  to  station-master  fi» 
a  tonga. 


ROUTE  6.      SURAIF 


105 


are  described  (6175)  as  stately  build- 
ings "  (Hunter.)  On  the  17th  February 
1765  the  Marathas  invested  Bassein, 
and  the  town  surrendered  on  the  16th 
of  May,  after  a  most  desperate  resist- 
ance, in  which  the  commandant,  Silveira 
de  Mineyes,  was  killed,  and  800  of  the 
garrison  killed  and  wounded,  while  the 
Maratha  loss  ^vas  upwards  of  5000.  On 
the  13th  of  November  1780  General 
Goddard  arrived  before  Bassein,  and  on 
the  28th  his  tirst  battery  opened  against 
it  He  had  very  powerful  artillery,  and 
one  battery  of  20  mortars,  which  shortly 
after  opened  at  the  distance  of  500  yds., 
and  did  great  execution.  The  place 
surrendered  on  the  11th  December,  on 
.  which  day  Colonel  Hartley,  with  a  cover- 
ing army  of  2000  men,  defeated  the 
Maratha  relieving  army  of  upwards  of 
24,000  men,  and  killed  its  distmguished 
General,  Bamchandra  Ganesh. 

The  Fori  with  the  ruins  stands  on 
the  Bassein  Greek,  a  little  away  from 
the  sea.    The  fort  is  now  entered  from 
the  N.     There  is  a  road  through  the 
town  from  the  rly.  sta. 
The  Old  Town,  5  m.  from  the  sta., 
I    surrounded   by  walls  and   ramparts, 
i    contains  the  ruins  of  the  Cathedral  of 
}   St  Joseph  and  other  churches  built  by 
Roman  CJatholic  missionaries  in  the 
14th  and  151ii  centuries.    Several  in- 
scriptions remain,  the  earliest  dated 
1586.     A  guide  is  necessary  to  point 
out  the  various  ruins.     Among  them 
are  the  church  of  St  Anthony,  the 
Jesuits*  church,  and  the  churches  and 
convents  of  the  Augustinians  and  Fran 
ciscans. 

Fryer,  describing  the  town  in  1675, 
says:  "Here  were  statelj  dwellings 
graced  with  covered  balconies  and  large 
windows,  two  stories  high,  with  panes 
of  oyster  shell,  which  is  the  usual  glaz- 
ing amongst  them  (the  Portuguese)  in 
India,  or  else  latticed." 

Close  to  these  venerable  ruins  is  a 
modem  temple  of  Shiva. 

116  m.  Udvada  sta.,  remarkable  as 
containing  the  oldest  Fire  Temple  in 
India.  It  is  believed  that  the  fire  still 
kept  alive  is  that  which  was  originally 
brought  from  Persia  by  the  Parsis  and 
first  kindled  here  in  700  A.D. 
108  m.  fiamAn  Road  sta.,9^  D.B. 


Daman  (7  m.  W.)  is  a  Portuguese 
settlement  subordinate  to  Goa.  It  was 
attacked  and  taken  in  1531,  and  again 
in  1535,  and  finally  captured  by  the 
Portuguese  in  1559.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Daman  Gunga  river,  which 
has  a  bad  bar.  Outside  is  a  roadstead. 
The  place  in  the  days  of  small  ships 
had  a  very  considerable  trade.  It  has 
a  fort  on  each  bank  of  the  river.  In 
the  main  fort,  on  left  bank,  are  the 
ruins  of  an  old  monastery  and  two 
churches, — only  Christians  may  reside 
within  tiie  walls.  In  it  are  the  houses 
of  the  governor  and  his  staff  and  the 
public  offices.  The  smaller  fort  of  St. 
Jerome  opposite  is  more  modem. 

125  m.  Balsar  sta.  This  place  is 
occasionally  used  as  a  rest -camp,  and 
near  it  is  the  village  of  Tithul  on  the 
sea -coast,  where  many  inhabitants  of 
Guzerat  resort  in  the  hot  season.  There 
are  fine  sands  and  a  grand  rolling  sea. 

149  m.  Navsari  sta.  (pop.  16,276, 
including  4,452  Parsis).  The  capital 
of  the  Gaekwar's  southern  possessions, 
and  the  headquarters,  from  the  earliest 
days,  of  the  Parsi  commimity.  Here 
the  Zoroastrian  Priesthood  receive  their 
initiation  and  confirmation.  The  Toum 
Hall  is  an  imposing  building.  A 
Parsi  has  established  here  a  manu- 
factory of  essences  and  soaps  on  Euro- 
pean principles. 

167  m.  BT7RAT  sta.  ifi  (B.)  The  name 
is  derived  by  Sir  Henry  Elliot  and 
others  from  Sav/rastraf  the  ancient 
name  of  the  peninsula  of  Kattywar, 
with  which  it  was  the  principal  port 
of  communication.  In  the  12th  cent 
the  Parsis,  who  were  driven  from  Persia 
200  yrs.  before,  and  had  settled  in 
Sanjan  70  m.  from  Surat,  found  their 
way  here  on  the  death  of  the  Sanjan 
chief.  There  are  now  some  89,900 
Parsis  in  India,  but  though  many 
of  them  are  still  to  be  found  here, 
the  greater  number — about  47,500 — 
are  settled  in  Bombay.  Amongst 
Indian  cities  it  is  not  a  place  of  anti- 
quity, but  it  had  a  large  trade  at  the 
end  of  the  15th  cent,  and  in  the  18th 
was  one  of  the  most  populous  and 
important  mercantile  cities  in  India, 
the  port  being  much  frequented  by 


106 


ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


British  and  other  European  traders.  It 
is  the  seat  of  a  collectorate,  is  situated 
on  the  river  Tapti,  and  is  surrounded 
on  the  land  side  by  a  wall  about  5)  m. 
round,  with  12  gates.  Except  the  main 
street  running  from  the  station  road  to 
the  castle,  the  streets  in  Surat  are  nar- 
row and  tortuous,  and  many  of  them 
still  bear  marks  of  the  great  fire  in 
1837,  which  raged  for  neariy  two  days, 
when  9373  houses  were  destroyed,  and 
many  nersons  perished.  Again  iu  1889 
a  fire  broke  out  which  raged  for  over 
12  hrs.,  and  destroyed  1350  shops  and 
houses.  In  1896  Lord  Elgin  here  inaugur- 
ated the  new  "  Rupee  Railway  "  a  local 
joint-stock  enterprise,  to  run  up  the 
valley  of  the  Tapti. 

The  population  of  Surat  as  late  as 
1797  was  estimated  at  800,000,  but  as 
Bombay  rose  Surat  declined,  until  in 
1841  it  had  only  80,000  inhabitants. 
From  1847  its  prosperity  gradually  in- 
creased, and  the  population  now  (1891) 
numbers  109,000. 

The  Portuguese  found  their  way  to 
the  place  soon  after  their  arrival  in 
India,  and  in  1512  sacked  the  then  open 
town.  On  the  19th  January  1578  it 
surrendered  to  Akbar  after  a  siege  of  1 
month  and  17  days.  Early  in  the  17  th 
cent,  the  English  began  to  visit  it,  and 
in  1612  the  Mofful  Emperor  sent 
down  2k  firman,  authorising  an  English 
minister  to  reside  at  his  court,  and 
opening  to  English  subjects  the  trade 
at  Surat.  In  1615  Captain  Downton, 
with  four  ships,  mounting  80  guns, 
defeated  the  Portuguese  fleet,  consist- 
ing of  four  galleons,  three  other  large 
ships,  and  60  smaller  vessels,  mounting 
in  all  134  gims.  This  victory  estab- 
lished the  reputation  of  the  Euglish 
for  war,  and  their  superiority  over  the 
Portuguese.  The  Dutch  trade  .  with 
Surat  commenced  in  1616,  and  for  some 
years  the  Dutch  Factory  competed 
successfully  with  the  English  at  Surat. 
The  French  Factory  was  not  founded 
till  1668,  when  the  agents  of  the  French 
East  India  Company,  which  Colbert  had 
established  in  1664,  settled  at  Surat. 
On  January  the  6th  of  the  same  year 
the  prosperity  of  Surat  received  a 
severe  blow  from  Shiv^ji,  the  founder 
of   the    Maratha    Empire,   who  with 


4000   horse    surprised    the  eity,  and 
|)lundered  it  for  six  days.      He  laid 
siege  to  the  English  factory,  but  all  his 
attempts  to  take  it  failed  on  account 
of  the  ^lantry  of  the  few  factors  who 
defended  it.     Their  courageous  defence 
so  pleased  Auvangzib,  that  he  sent  Sir 
G.   Oxenden   a  robe  of  honour,   and 
granted  the  English  an  exemption  from 
customs.     The  walls  of  Surat  up  to 
this  time  were  of  mud,  but  they  were 
now  ordered  to  be  built  of  brick.     Surat 
was  again  partially  pillaged    by  the 
Marathas   in  1670,   1702,    and  1706. 
About  this  time  commenced  the  disputes 
of  the  rival  London  and  English  Com- 
panies ;  and  on  the  19th  of  January 
1700  Sir  Nichohu  Waite,  Consul  for 
the  King,  and  President  of  the  Hew 
Company,    arrived    at    Sural       The 
struggle  of  the  Companies  continued 
till  1/08,  when  they  were  united.    A  j 
new  era  now  began  to  dawn  upon  the  ; 
English  at  Surat.    They  were  fast  ap-  j 
preaching  the  period  when  they  were  i 
to  acquire  political  influence  m  the  ! 
city,  which  was  then  regarded  as  the  i 
greatest  emporium  of  W.  India. 

In  1759  the  Nawab  signed  a  treaty  ! 
by  which  the  castle  and  fleet  were  | 
made  over  to  the  English  with  a  yearly 
stipend  of  200,000  rs.  This  arrange- 
ment was  confirmed  by  the  Emperor  at 
Delhi,  and  the  En^^lish  authority  was 
firmly  established  in  Surat.  In  1842 
the  last  titular  Kawab  died,  and  the 
flag  of  Delhi  was  removed  from  the 
castle. 

The  Castle,  so  prominent  in  the 
early  annals  of  the  English  in  W. 
India,  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  was  built  by  a  Turkish  soldier  about 
1540.  It  is  an  uninteresting  brick 
building  with  walls  about  8  ft.  thick, 
much  modernised.  There  is  a  good 
view  of  the  city  and  river  from  the 
S.W.  bastion.  Over  the  E.  gateway  is 
an  inscription. 

Factories.  — The  remains  of  the  Eng- 
lish Factory  are  near  the  way  to  the 
Eatargaon  Gate,  close  to  the  river. 
The  building  is  now  a  private  dwelling. 
N.  of  it  is  the  Portuguese  Factory,  where 
some  records  are  still  kept.  A  wooden 
cross  marks  the  site  of  the  church. 
Close  to  this  are  the  vacant  site  of  the 


ROUTE  6.      BROACH 


107 


Frefnch  Lodge  and  the  PersmTi  Factory, 
Adjoining  the  castle  is  the  well-kept 
Victoricu  Garden,  of  8  acres.  There  is 
a  fine  view  of  the  town  from  the  Cloc^ 
Tower, 

In  the  English  Cemetery^  N.  of  the 
city  on  the  Broach  Road,  is  (on  the  rt. 
on  entering)  the  mausoleum  of  Sir 
George  Oxendon,  and  near  it  the  tomb' 
of  his  brother  Christopher. 

The  Dutch  Cemetery  is  also  curious 
from  the  great  size  of  the  monuments. 
The  most  striking  is  that  of  Baron  van 
Rheede,  a  learned  man,  who  was  the 
author  of  the  valuable  work,  "  Hortus 
Malabaricus,"  and  made  valuable  col- 
lections of  books  and  curiosities,  which 
he  sent  to  Holland. 

The  chief  Mosques  are — 

1.  Khwajah  Diwan  Sahib's  Mosque, 
built  about  1530.  He  is  said  to  have 
come  to  Surat  from  Bokhara,  and  to 
have  lived  to  the  age  of  116.  2.  The 
Nau  Saiyad  Mosque,  "Mosque  of  the 
Nine  Saiyads,"  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Gopi  Lake.  3.  The  Sayyad  Idrus  Mosque, 
in  Sayyadpura,  with  a  minaret,  one  of 
the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  Surat ; 
it  was  built  in  1639,  in  honour  of  the 
ancestor  of  the  present  Kazi  of  Surat. 
4.  The  Mirza  Sami  Mosque,  built  1540  by 
Khudawand  Khan,  who  built  the  castle. 

The  Tombs  of  the  Bohnui  deserve  a 
visit.  There  are  two  chief  Parsi  fire- 
temples,  built  in  1823.  The  Hindu  sect 
of  the  Walabhacharis  has  three  temples. 
The  Swami  Narayan  temple,  with  uiree 
white  domes,  is  visible  all  over  the  city. 
In  the  two  old  temples  in  the  Ambaii 
ward  the  shrines  are  15  ft.  underground, 
a  relic  of  Mohammedan  persecution. 
The  Shravaks,  or  Jains,  have  42  temples, 
the  chief  of  which  are  from  150  to  200 
years  old.  There  are  several  steam 
Cotton  MiUs  here  ;  and  carved  sandal 
wood  and  inlaid  work  form  important 
industries. 

Across  the  Hope  Bridge  3  m.  is 
Sander,  built  on  the  site  of  a  very 
ancient  Hindu  city,  destroyed  by  the 
Mohammedans  in  the  12th  century. 
The  Jumma  Musjid  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  principal  Jain  Temple.  In  the 
fa9ade  the  bases  of  the  Jain  columns 
are  still  visible,  and  the  great  idol  is 
placed  head  downwards  as  a  doorstep 


for  the  faithful  to  tread  on  in  entering 
the  mosque.  In  another  mosque  are  the 
wooden  columns  and  domes  oelonging 
to  the  Jain  Temple,  which  are  the  only 
wooden  remains  of  the  kind  in  Guzerat. 
2  m.  after  leaving  Surat  the  Tapti  or 
Tapi  river  is  crossed  by  a  very  long 
bridge,  andclose  to  BTO&ohtheNerbudda 
or  Narmada  river  is  passed  on  the  finest 
Bridge  on  the  B.  B.  and  0. 1.  Railway. 
From  it  a  good  view  is  obtained  on  left  of 

203  nL  Broacb  sta.  (R.)  D.B. 
{Bharoch),  is  a  plaoe  of  extreme 
antiquity,  but  uninteresting.  Pop. 
37,000.  Part  of  the  town  is  within 
about  i  m.  from  railway  station.  The 
author  of  the  PeHplus,  60-210  A.D., 
mentions  Broach  under  the  name  of 
Barugaza.  It  was  then  ruled  by  a  Guij- 
jara  prince,  probably  a  feudatory  of  some 
larger  state,  and  subsequently  fell  imder 
the  rule  of  the  Ohalukyas.  The  Mos- 
lems appeared  in  the  8th  cent.,  and 
Broach  was  ruled  by  them  from  1297 
to  1772.  In  1613  a.d.  it  was  first 
visited  by  Aldworth  and  Withington, 
English  merchants,  and  in  1614  a  house 
was  hired  for  a  factory,  permission  to 
establish  which  was  granted  to  Sir 
Thomas  Roe  by  Jehangir  in  161 6.  The 
Dutch  set  up  a  factory  in  1617.  In 
1686  the  Marathas  plundered  Broach. 
On  the  18th  of  November  1772  the 
British  troops  stormed  the  place  with 
the  loss  of  their  commander.  General 
Wedderbum,  whose  tomb  is  at  the 
N.  W.  comer  of  the  Fort.  On  the  29th 
of  August  1803  Broach  was  again  taken 
by  storm  by  the  British. 

The  Nerhvdda  here  is  a  noble  river, 
1  m.  in  breadth.  The  city  with  its 
suburbs  covers  a  strip  of  land  2^  m.  long 
and  I  m.  broad,  hence  by  its  inhabitants 
it  is  called  Jibh,  or  *  ^  the  tongue. "  The 
Fort  stands  on  a  hill  more  than  100  ft. 
above  the  river,  and  a  massive  stone 
wall  lines  the  river  bank  for  about  1 
m.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  some 
of  them  steep.  The  houses  are  of  plain 
brick,  two  stories  high,  with  tiled 
roofs.  In  the  Fort  are  the  Collector's 
Office,  the  Civil  Courts,  the  Dutch 
Factory,  the  Jail,  the  Civil  Hospital, 
the  English  Church  and  School,  the 
Municipal  Office,  and  the  Library. 


108 


BOUTJB  6.   BOHBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


The  Dutch  tombs  are  2  m.  W.  of  the 
Fort,  and  some  100  yds.  off  the  road  1. 
Two  of  them  are  from  16  to  20  ft  high. 

Opposite  the  Datch  tombs  are  five 
Totoera  of  Silence,  one  of  them  about 
15  ft  high.  The  second  tower  is  still  in 
use.  Outside  the  £.  gate  on  the  river 
bank  is  the  Temple  of  BhriguMiahi,  from 
whom  the  town  got  the  name  of  Brigu- 
kackha,  oontractod  into  Bhamch. 

Broach  is  celebrated  for  its  cotton ; 
there  are  two  spinninj^  and  weaving 
mUls  and  several  ginning  and  cotton 
pressing  factories. 

[10  m.  to  the  E.  of  Broach  is  the 
celebrated  place  of  Hindu  pilgrimai 
Shukaltixth.  It  is  on  the  N.  or  right 
bank  of  the  Nerbudda,  and  here  Ohan- 
akya,  King  of  Ujjain,  was  purified  of 
his  sins,  bavins  arrived  at  this  holy 
spot  by  sailing  down  the  Nerbudda  in  a 
boat  with  black  sails,  which  turned 
white  on  hisreachingShukaltrith.  Here 
too  Chandragupta  and  his  minister, 
Chanakya,  were  cleansed  from  the  ^ilt 
of  murdering  Ohandragupta's  eight 
brothers,  and  here  Chamund,  King  of 
.Aiihilwada,  in  the  11th  century,  ended 
his  life  as  a  penitent  There  are  three 
sacred  waters — the  Kavi,  tiie  Hunkar- 
eshwar,  and  the  Shukal.  At  the  second 
of  these  is  a  temple  with  an  image  of 
Vishnu.  The  temple  is  not  remark- 
able. There  is  a  faxr  here  in  November, 
at  which  25,000  people  assemble.  Op- 
posite Mangleshwar,  which  is  1  m.  up 
stream  from  Shukltirth,  in  the  Ner- 
budda,  is  an  island  in  which  is  the  famous 
Banian  Tree  called  the  Kabir  toad,  or 
**the  fig-tree  of  Kabir,"  from  whose 
toothpick  it  is  said  to  have  originated. 
It  has  sufifered  much  from  floods. 
Forbes,  who  visited  Broach  1776-88, 
says  in  his  Oriental  Memoirs,  L  p.  26, 
it  enclosed  a  space  within  its  principid 
stems  2000  ft.  m  circumference.  It  had 
350  large  and  3000  smaU  trunks,  and 
had  been  known  to  shelter  7000  men. 
Bishop  Heber,  in  April  1825,  says 
though  much  had  been  washed  away, 
enough  remained  to  make  it  one  of  the 
most  noble  groves  in  the  world.  A 
small  temple  marks  the  spot  where  the 
original  trunk  grew.] 

229  m.  Miyagam  junc.  sta.  This  is 
a  junction  of  a  system  of  narrow  gauge 


railways  (2'  6")  owned  by  the  Gaekwar 
of  Baroda  and  worked  by  the  B.B. 
and  0. 1.  Kly.  Dabhoi  is  the  place  of 
chief  interest  on  these  lines,  and  may 
best  be  visited  by  leaving  the  main  line 
at  Miyagam  ana  rejoining  it  at  Fish- 
vamitri  jimction,  2  m.  S.  of  Baroda  sta., 
if  the  traveller  intends  continuing  bis 
journey ;  but  for  seeing  the  city  of 
Baroda,  it  may  be  better  to  leave  the 
train  at  Cfoya  Gate  sta. 

[From  Miyagam  20  m.  Dabhoi,  a  town 
belonging  to  the  state  of  Baroda.  Pop. 
15,000.  The  ancient  Hindu  architec- 
ture of  this  place  is  most  interesting, 
and  is  little  known.  It  appears  to 
have  escaped  notice  by  James  Fergusson, 
whomit would  havedelighted.  '&» Fort 
is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Yaghela 
king  of  Patau  in  the  13th  century. 

The  Baroda  Oate  is  31  ft  high, 
with  elaborately  carved  pilasters  on 
either  side.  The  carving  represent 
the  incarnations  of  Vishnu,  and 
nymphs  sporting  with  heavenly  alliga- 
tors. Near  this  the  interior  colonnades 
in  the  Fort  walls  are  very  interesting. 
They  afford  shelter  to  the  garrison. 
The  roofs  give  an  ample  rampart,  but 
they  indicate  no  fear  of  the  breaching 

Sower  of  artillery.  Pass  then  through 
usty  streets,  in  which  the  houses  are  of 
immense  solidity,  and  built  of  burnt 
brick  much  worn  by  the  weather,  to  the 
S.  or  Kandod  gate,  which  is  29  ft 
high  and  16  ft  4  in.  wide.  Trees  have 
grown  in  the  waUs  and  fractured  them 
with  their  thick  roots.  The  Hira  Gate 
in  the  E.  face  of  the  town  is  37  ft 
high,  and  a  marvel  of  minute  carving. 
On  the  spectator's  left  as  he  looks  ont 
from  inside  the  tower,  is  the  temple  of 
Maha  Kali,  and  on  his  right  beyond  the 
gate  and  inside  it  is  a  smaller  temple, 
now  quite  ruined.  These  gates  are  well 
worth  attention.  The  Temple  of  Maha 
Kali  is  a  wondrous  example  of  carving, 
which  when  new  must  have  been  very 
beautifal,  but  is  now  much  worn  by 
the  weather.  The  carving  of  the  gate 
outside  the  town  is  elaborate.  About 
10  ft.  up  in  the  N.  face  of  the  centre,  a 
man  and  woman  are  carved  4  ft  high, 
standing  with  a  tree  between  them, 
like  the  old  representations  of  Adam 
and  Eve.     To  the  left  is  the  tall  figure 


ROUTE  ۥ      BARODA 


109 


of  a  devil,  with  a  ghastly  leer.  High 
in  the  centre  face  is  an  elephant,  under 
which  the  hoilder  of  the  gate  is  said  to 
have  been  interred.  On  the  N.  side 
of  the  town  is  what  was  the  palace,  in 
■which  the  law  courts  now  sit.  There  is  a 
fine  tank  on  this  side  and  the  Mori  gate. 
(From  Dabhoi  a  branch  rly.  runs  10  m. 
S.  to  Chandod  sta.,  a  celebrated  place 
of  Hindu  pilgrimage,  owing  to  its 
situation  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Nerhudda  and  the  Or,  Thousands 
flock  there  every  full  moon.  On  the 
further  side  of  the  Nerbudda  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  Rajah  of  Rajpipla  is 
entered). 

29  m.  Bahadarpur  sta.  The  line  is 
in  construction  E.  to 

38  m.  Songir,  where  there  are 
quarries  of  fine  marble. 

(15  m.  N.£.  of  Bahadarpur  is  the 
fortified  mountain  of  Pawa/njga/rh  and 
tho  ruined  city  of  Ghampanir,  (see  p. 
110).] 

Z4/  m.  BARODA  if.  (R.)  is  the  capi- 
tal of  the  very  important  Maratna 
state  of  the  Graekwar,  which  with  its 
dependencies  covers  an  area  of  8570 
sq.  m. ,  with  a  pop.  of  2,415,400. 

The  GantGUTnent  and  Resident^  are  a 
long  m.  N.  from  the  railway  station  and 
adjoin  one  another.  They  are  well 
laid  out  with  open  weU-planted  roads. 

The  city  of  Baroda  is  S.  E.  of  the  can- 
tonment, about  1  m.  It  is  a  large  busy 
place,  with  a  pop.  of  116,400,  but  con- 
tains few  sights  to  detain  a  traveller. 
The  Yishvamitri  river  flows  "W.  of  the 
town,  and  is  spanned  by  four  stone 
bridges,  which  exhibit  great  contrasts 
of  style.  The  city  proper  is  intersected 
at  right  angles  by  two  wide  thorough- 
fares, which  meet  in  a  market-place, 
where  there  is  a  fine  pavilion  of  Moham- 
medan architecture.  The  new  Lakshmi 
Villas  Palace,  seen  from  the  railway 
towering  above  the  town,  cost  27  lacs 
of  rupees.  Passes  to  view  it  can  be  ob- 
tained from  the  Governor  Gren.'s  Agent. 
The  suburban  palace  Mukhapura  is  4 
m.  S.  of  the  city.  There  are  also  many 
other  handsome  modem  buildings, 
amongst  which  may  be  mentioned  the 
Marchioness  of  Dufferin's  Hospital,  the 
Baroda  State  Library ,  the  Central  Jail, 
the  Baroda  College,   and  the  Anglo- 


Vernacular  School,  The 
Church  was  consecrated  by  Bishop 
Heber  1824,  and  in  1838  was  almost 
entirely  rebuilt.  There  is  a  good 
public  garden  between  the  canton- 
ments and  the  city  on  the  banks  of  the 
Vishvamitri  river.  ^ 

The  NaiOakhi  Well  is  60  yds.  N.  of 
the  new  palace.  It  is  a  beautiful 
structure  of  the  Baoli  class,  described 
generally  below.  The  water  from  it  is 
pumped  by  steam  into  pipes  leading  to 
the  city,  the  Afoti  Bagh,  and  JVaaar 
Bagh,^  Twenty  yds.  beyond  the  Nazar 
Bagh  Qate  on  the  rt  in  a  barrack  are 
some  small  gold  field-pieces  mounted 
on  silver-plated  carriages.  They  con- 
tain 280  lbs.  weight  each  of  solid  gold, 
and  are  drawn  by  splendid  milk-white 
bullocks,  stabled  hard  by. 

Baroda  is  supplied  with  water  from 
the  artifical  Jjwa  Lake,  18  m.  distant, 
which  possesses  an  area  of  4*71  sq.  m. 
It  was  completed  in.  1892,  at  a  cost  of 
35  lakhs. 

The  Baolis,  in  Guzerat,  are  large 
wells.  The  following  account  of  these 
structures  is  given  by  Mr.  A.  Kinloch 
Forbes,  in  his  interesting  work  on 
Guzerat,  the  Bos  Mala :  "Of  the  wells 
of  this  period  there  remain  in  different 
parts  of  the  country  examples  of  two 
kinds.  Some  are  large  circular  wells 
of  ordinary  construction,  but  contain- 
ing gallened  apartments ;  others  are 
more  properly  described  as  *tuav8*  or 
*  baolis,*  The  vxzv  is  a  large  edifice, 
of  a  picturesque  and  stately,  as  well  as 
peculiar,  character.  Above  the  level  of 
the  ground  a  row  of  four  or  five  open 
pavilions,  at  regular  distances  from 
each  other,  usually  square  in  the 
interior,  but  sometimes,  in  the  larger 
examples,  passing  into  the  octagonal 
form  within,  is  alone  visible ;  the  roofs 
are  supx)orted  on  columns,  and  are,  in 
the  structures  of  the  Hindu  times, 
pyramidal  in  form.  The  entrance  to 
the  wav  is  by  one  of  the  end  pavilions  ; 
thence  a  flight  of  steps  descends  to  a 
landing  immediately  under  the  second 
dome,  which  is  now  seen  to  be  sup- 
ported by  two  rows  of  columns,  one 

1  The  Old  Palace  and  Toshah  Khana  are  well 
worth  a  visit. 

2  A  much  finer  specimen  ol  this  class  ot 
wells  is  to  be  found  at  Ahmedabad. 


no 


BOUTB  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


oyer  the  other.  A  aecond  flight  of 
steps  contmnes  the  descent  to  a  similar 
landing  under  the  third  pavilion, 
where  the  screen  is  found  to  be  three 
oolunms  in  height  In  this  manner 
the  descent  continues  stage  by  stage, 
the  number  of  the  columns  increasing 
at  each  pavilion,  until  the  level  of  the 
water  is  at  last  reached.  The  last 
flight  of  steps  frequently  conducts  to 
an  octagonal  structure,  in  this  position 
necessarily  several  stories  high,  and 
containing  a  gallery  at  each  story.  It 
is  covered  by  the  terminating  dome, 
and  is  the  most  adorned  portion  of  the 
y)av.  The  structure,  which  is  some- 
times 80  yds.  in  length,  invariably 
terminates  in  a  circular  welL" 

At  Baroda  the  traveller  has  entered 
the  part  of  Guzerat  that  is  most  fertile 
and  park-like.  It  will  be  a  pity  to 
pass  through  it  in  the  dark.  Nearly 
every  village  has  its  tank  and  its  temple, 
large  well-grown  trees  abound,  and  the 
fields,  whidi  are  richly  cultivated,  are 
surrounded  by  high  hedges  of  milk 
bush  (Euphorbia  timcaUi),  The  small 
game  shooting  is  ezceptlonally  good. 

[An  expedition  may  be  made  from 
Baroda  by  the  Gaekwcur's  narrow  gauge 
rly .  to  the  fortified  mountain  of  Fawan- 
garh,  and  the  ruined  city  of  Champanvr; 
the  distance  is  about  88  m.  Cham- 
pauir  was  long  the  residence  of  the 
kings.  After  many  vicissitudes  it  was 
taken  in  1484  by  Mahmud  Begada  of 
Ahmedabad,  whomadeithis  capital,  and 
in  1686  it  was  besieged  by  Humayun, 
Emp.  of  Delhi  In  person  he  scaled  the 
precipices  of  the  Fort  by  the  aid  of  iron 
spikes  driven  into  the  rock,  and  opened 
the  g|ate  to  admit  his  army.  There  are 
remains  of  many  mo8(^ues,  tombs,  and 
tanks  in  the  lower  city;  and  in  the 
forest  for  miles  around  may  bo  found 
the  ruins  of  massive  wells,  minarets, 
and  palaces,  which  testify  to  the  former 
greatness  of  Champanir^]. 

270  m.  Anand  junc.  sta. 

[(a)  One  branch  line  from  this  sta.  ex- 
tendsN.E.  to76m.  OodhzaandBntlAm.] 

18  m.  Dakor  sta.    There  is  a  large 

1  For  the  architecture  of  Ghampuiir,  Mah- 
madabad,  etc.,  see  Burgess  Mohamnudan 
ArtMUdwre  of  Gujarat  (L8Q6). 


lake,  and  a  temple  with  an  image  much 
venerated  by  the  Hindus.  As  many  as 
100,000  pilgrims  assemble  in  October 
and  November. 

About  20  m.  N.  of  Dakor  is  the 
walled  town  of 

Kapadvanj,  D.B.,  noted  for  its  in- 
dustry in  8oapt  glass,  and  leather  jars 
for  **ghee"  The  glass  is  made  by 
Mohammedans  in  large  earthen  fur- 
naces in  form  like  huge  slipper  bathsi 
the  floor  sloping  towards  holes  pre- 
pared to  receive  the  melted  sub- 
stance. The  furnace  inside  is  baked 
as  hard  and  looks  as  white  and  slippery 
as  ice.  The  component  parts  of 
the  glass  are  alkali,  us,  an  impure  soda 
compound  partly  carbonate  and  partly 
silicate,  se^j'i  khdr,  and  a  dark-coloured 
flinty  sand  from  Jeypore.  These  are 
mixed  together,  placed  in  the  furnaces, 
and  thoroughly  boiled  for  hours. 
When  ready,  the  boiling  mass  is 
allowed  to  run  into  a  trench  to  cool. 
It  is  then  broken  into  small  pieces, 
remelted,  and  in  this  liquid  state  made 
into  bangles,  beads,  bottles,  glasses, 
and  fancy  animals,  chiefly  peacocks. 
The  last  are  extremely  thin  and  brittle. 
This  glass  goes  chiefly  to  Bombay  and 
Eathywar.  Midway  between  Dakor  and 
Kapadvaoj  are  the  hot  springs  of  Las- 
sundra,  the  highest  temperature  being 
116°.  The  water  is  slightly  sulphurous 
and  efficacious  in  skin  diseases.  There 
is  a  small  D.B.  in  the  cantonment.] 

[(b)  Another  line  runs  S.  W.  16  m.  to 
Petlad,  a  commercial  town,  pop.  16,628. 

16  m.  S.W.  x)f  Petlad  is  Cambay, 
the  capital  of  the  Native  State  of  that 
name^  pop.  81,390.  The  town  and 
port  are  of  great  antiquity.  In  A. p. 
913  Cambay  is  described  by  the  Arab 
traveller  Masudi  as  standing  on  the 
shores  of  a  deep  bay  surrounded  by 
towns,  villages,  farms,  cultivated  fields, 
trees,  and  gardens.  It  was  governed 
by  the  kings  of  Anhilvada  (the  modem 
Patau),  up  to  the  end  of  the  13th  cent. 
Mohammedan  writers  of  the  period  cal) 
it  the  "first  city  in  Hind."  The  beauty 
and  wealth  of  the  country  led  to  its 
invasion  by  the  Mohammedan  Emperor 
Ala-ud-din  in  1304,  when  the  city  was 
plundered  and  its  temples  destroyed. 

Cambay  reached  the  height  of  its 


ROUTE  6.      AHMEDABAD 


111 


glory  under  the  Mohammedans  at  the 
latter  end  of  the  l6th  and  beginning 
of  the  16th  cents.,  and  in  1583,  letters 
carried  by  Fitch,  Leedes,  and  New- 
berry jfrom  Qneen  Elizabeth,  were  ad- 
dressed to  Akbar  as  King  of  Cambay. 
The  Portugnese  and  Dutch  had  aiifady 
established  factories  here  in  16X3  when 
the  English  appeared;  it  was  still  a 
fionrifihing  city,  but  commenced  to 
decline  as  Surat  increased  in  import- 
ance. In  the  18th  cent  it  was 
plundered  more  than  once  by  the 
Marathas ;  at  the  same  time  the  en- 
trance to  the  harbour  began  to  silt  up, 
and  it  has  now  become  as  unimportant 
a  city  as  it  was  formerly  great, 

Cambay  was  formerly  a  stronghold 
of  the  Jains  and  still  possesses  some 
of  their  MSS.  second  only  to  those  at 
Patau.  The  Jwmma  Musfid  (1326), 
was  built  with  fragments  of  Jain  and 
Hindu  Temples. 

The  town  is  celebrated  for  the  manu- 
fiactare  of  agate,  cornelian,  and  onyx 
ornaments.] 

292  m.  Hehmadabad  sta.  30^  Pic- 
turesque view  of  riyer  from  rly.  sta. 
In  the  morning  and  evening  troops  of 
monkeys  play  about  quite  near  the 
train.  Hehmadabad  was  founded  by 
Mahmud  Begada  in  1479.  There  is  a 
tomb  IJ  m.  E.  of  the  town,  built  in 
1484  in  honour  of  Mubarak  Sayyad,  a 
minister  of  Mahmud.  For  simplicity 
of  plan,  and  solidity  and  balance  of 
parts,  it  stands  almost  first  among 
Indian  mausoleums.  Begada  also  con- 
structed the  Bhamara  Baoli  welL  It 
has  two  stone  arches,  on  which,  it  was 
said  the  king's  swing  was  hung.  It  is 
74  fL  long  by  24  ft.  broad,  is  entered 
by  four  winding  stairs,  and  has  eight 
underground  chambers. 

[Kidxa  {Kheda\  7  m.  from  Hehma- 
dabad, by  a  good  road  shaded  by  fine 
trees  (pop.  29,000),  is  the  largest  town 
in  the  district  of  that  name.  It  consists 
i  of  two  parts,  the  town  proper  and  the 
suburbs.  Kaira  is  said  to  be  as  old  as 
1400  B.C.  Copper-plate  grants  show  that 
I  the  city  was  in  existence  in  the  5th  cent. 
i  There  are  now  only  five  European  civil 
officers  resident  there.  The  chief  in- 
i  dustryisprintingclothforsarisandother 
native  garments.     In  the  centre  of  the 


town  is  the  Court  House,  a  building 
with  pillars  of  a  Greek  order.  Near  it 
is  a  Jadn  Temple,  with  beautiful  dark 
wood  carving.  Outside  the  E.  gate  is  the 
new  Jail.  Outside  the  S.  gate  are  the 
Reading-room  and  Library  and  a  Clock 
Tower,  built  in  1868.  It  was  once  a 
military  cantonmenjt,  but  proved  so 
unhealthy  for  Europeans  that  the  troops 
were  withdrawn.  The  large  church  was 
consecrated  by  Bishop  Heber  in  1822, 
and  has  a  beautiful  bell.  It  is  the 
capital  of  a  coUectorate  of  well- wooded 
fertile  country.  Wild  hog  may  still  be 
found  in  the  district  and  the  Nilgai 
{Portax  pictw),  antelope  (Antilope 
bezoartica),  and  Indian  gazelle  {Gaaella 
Bennettii),  are  very  common.  The 
Sams  is  a  tall  and  beautiful  gray  crane 
with  a  crimson liead.  All  these  animals, 
assisted  by  monkeys,  do  great  damage 
to  the  crops,  but  the  cultivators  protect 
them  from  sportsmen.  -Wild-fowl,  bus- 
tard {Ewpodotis  JSdwardsii)y  and  fiorican 
{Sypheotides  wwrUus^  partridges  and 
quails,  sand-ffrouse,  plovers  and  bitterns, 
pea-fowl  and  green  pigeon,  are  found 
everywhere.  The  Mahsir  (BarJms 
Mosal),  little  inferior  to  the  salmon,  are 
found  in  the  Hahi,  Yatrak,  Heshwa,  and 
Sabarmati,  and  afford  excellent  sport 
with  the  rod  and  fly.  There  are  few 
richer  and  more  pleasing  portions  of 
India  than  the  Eaira  collectorate.] 

It  may  well  be  asserted  that  the  lines 
of  railway  from  Hehmadabad  and  Rut- 
lam  to  Delhi  through  northern  Gnzerat 
and  Rajputana,  traverse  a  country  more 
crowded  with  beautiful  buildings  and 
ruins  than  any  in  the  known  world. 

310  m.  AHMEDABAD,^  June.  sta.  s^c 

This  most  beautiful  city,  covering  an 
area  of  2  sq.  m.  (148,412  inhab.),  stands 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Sabarmati  river, 
which  skirts  its  W.  wall.  The  remains  of 
an  old  wall,  pierced  by  12  gateways, 
surround  it. 

Ahmedabad,  once  the  greatest  city 
in  Western  India,  is  said  to  have  been 
from  1573  to  1600  the  "handsomest 
town  in   Hindustan,  perhaps  in  the 

1  No  tourist  should  pass  the  ancient  capital 
of  the  Sultans  of  Guzerat,  the  stronghold  of 
the  northern  Jains,  without  pausing  at  least 
long  enough  (4  hrs.)  to  visit  the  Tombs  qf  tlie 
QtieeTis.  The  chief  objects  of  interest  marked 
with  an  asterisk. 


112 


ROUTE  6.       BOHBAT  TO  DELHI 


Ifidia 


world."  In  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  time, 
1616,  we  are  told,  **it  was  a  goodly 
city  as  large  as  London."  ft  was 
founded  in  1411  by  Saltan  Ahmad  I., 
who  made  Asaval,  the  old  Hindu  town 
now  included  in  the  S.  part  of  the  city, 
his  capital.  It  passed  through  two 
periods  of  greatness,  two  of  decay, 
and  one  of  revival.  From  1411  to  1611 
it  grew  in  size  and  wealth  ;  from  1612 
to  1572  it  declined  with  the  decay  of 
the  dynasty  of  Guzerat ;  from  1672  to 
1709  it  renewed  its  greatness  under  the 
Mogul  emperors  ;  from  1709  to  1809  it 
dwindled  with  their  decline  ;  and  from 
1818  onwards  it  has  again  increased 
under  British  rule. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  filtered  water 
obtained  from  wells  sunk  in  the  bed 
of  the  river,  nearly  opposite  Oomanpur. 

The  Cantonment  lies  8}  m.  N.E.  of 
the  city,  and  is  reached  by  a  good  road 
lined  by  an  avenue  of  trees,  the  haunt  of 
thousands  of  parrots.  Here  there  is  an 
English  Church,  and  there  is  another, 
Christ  Church,  in  the  Idaria  Qiuirter, 
600  yds.  S.  of  the  Delhi  Gate. 

It  is  hard  to  account  for  Ahmedabad 
being  so  little  known  to  modem  travel- 
lers from  Europe.  It  certainly  ranks 
next  to  Delhi  and  Agra  for  the  beauty 
and  extent  of  its  architectural  remains. 
Its  architecture  is  an  interesting  and 
striking  example  of  the  combination 
of  Hindu  and  Mohammedan  forms. 
**  Nowhere  did  the  inhabitants  of  Ah- 
medabad show  how  essentially  they 
were  an  architectural  people  as  in  their 
utilitarian  works  (wells  [JBaolis]  and  in- 
lets to  water  reservoirs).  It  was  a  ne- 
cessity of  their  nature  that  every  object 
should  be  made  ornamental,  and  their 
success  was  as  great  in  these  as  in  their 
mosques  or  palaces  "  (see  Fergusson). 

The  Jaina  feeding-places  for  hi/rds, 
which  at  the  first  glance  look  like 
pigeon-houses,  to  be  seen  in  many  of 
the  streets,  are  a  peculiar  feature  of 
Ahmedabad:  they  are  extremely  pic- 
turesque, ornamented  with  carving,  and 
otten  gaily  painted.  Many  of  the  houses 
in  the  street  have  fronts  beautifully 
orDamented  with  wood-carving,  which 
is  a  speciality  of  the  place  (see  below). 

A  traveller  pressed  for  time,  having 
only  one  day  at  his  disposal,  might  take 


the  buildings  in  the  city  in  the  follow- 
ingorder : — 

The  Jumma  Musjid  and  Tombs  of 
Ahmad  Shah  and  his  wives  ;  the  Rani 
Sipari's  Tomb  and  M<»que;  Dastur 
Khan's  Mosque;  the  Tin  Darwazab; 
the  Bhadr  Azam  Khan's  palace ;  Sidi 
Sayyad's  Mosque ;  Ahmad  Shah's 
Mosque  ;  Shaikh  Hasan's  Mosque;  the 
Bani  (or  Queen's)  Mosque  in  Mirzapur; 
Muhafiz  Khan's  Mosque. 

With  a  second  morning  to  spare,  he 
should  start  earlyand  see  Sarkhej,  across 
the  river  to  the  8.  W.,  giving  himself  ai 
least  four  hours  for  the  trip.  A  second 
afternoon  could  be  devoted  to  the  Kan- 
kariya  Tank  and  Shah  'Alam,  S.  of  the 
city,  and  perhaps  the  modem  Jain  Tem- 
ple of  Hatnising,  outside  the  Delhi  gate. 

Near  the  rly.  sta.  are  the  handsome 
lofty  minarets  and  arched  central  gate- 
way, which  are  all  that  remain  of  a 
mosque*  (1)  destroyed  in  the  struggle 
with  the  Marathas  in  1763. 

The  Juimna  Husjid  (8),*  or  prin- 
cipaZ  mosqtie,  stands  near  the  centre  of 
the  city,  on  tiie  S.  side  of  the  main  street 
(Manik  Ohauk),  a  little  E.  of  the  Three 
Gateways.  It  was  built  by  Sultan 
Ahmad  I.  (Ahmad  Shah)  in  1424.  Mr. 
Fergusson  says :  **  Though  not  remark- 
able for  its  size,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  mosques  in  the  East."  The 
mosque  is  entered  from  the  N.  by  a 
flight  of  steps.  On  the  S.  is  another 
porch  leading  into  the  street,  and  on  the 
E.  is  the  enclosure,  in  which  is  the  tomb 
of  the  founder.  The  court  is  surrounded 
by  a  cloister.  To  the  W.  is  the  mosque 
proper.  On  the  threshold  of  the  main 
arch,  embedded  in  the  pavement,  lies  a 
black  slab  brought  from  Chintaman's 
Temple,  which,  according  to  Mr.  Hope, 
is  a  Jain  idol  turned  upside  down  for  xhe 
faithful  to  tread  on  ;  and  touching  it  on 
the  E.  is  a  white  marble  crescent,  where 
the  Imam  stands  to  pray.  In  the  right- 
hand  comer  on  entering  is  a  galler][, 
which  was  probably  usedforthemembera 
of  the  royal  family.  The  roof,  supported 
by  260  columns,  has  16  cupolas  with 
galleries  round  the  three  in  front.  The 
centre  cupola  is  larger  and  much  higher 
than  the  others.  The  2  minarets  lost  half 

1  These  numbers  in  brackets  refer  to  the 
numbers  on  the  accompanying  plan. 


AHMEDABAD 

Town 

1.  Ruined  Mosque  near 
the  Railway  Station 

2.  Tombe  of  Ahmad  Shah 
and  hia  wives 

3.  Jumma   Musjid 
Rani  Sepne'a  Mosque 
Dastur Khan's  Mosque 

6.  Haibat Khan's  Mosque 

7.  The  Triple  Gateway 

8.  The  Bhadr 
including 

9.  Azam  Khan's  PcUaoe 
V).  Ahmad  ShcJi's  1^  Mosque 
U.The  Manik  Burj 
li.Sidi  Said's  Mosque 
13.Shah  Wajihuddin's  Tomb 
1^  Said  A  lam's  Mosque 

15.  The  Rani'a  Mosque  in  Murzepur 

16.  Mosque  of  the  Shaihh  Hasan 
n.Muhafiz  Khan's  Mosque  ,  | 
Vi.Swami  Narayan'a  Tempie\ 


IVatker  Q^Boutall  st. 


To  face  p.  112. 


ROUTB  6.      AHMEDABAD 


113 


lor  height  in  the  earthquake  of  16th 
Jm  1819.  They  are  now  48  ft.  high.' 
k  a  marble  dao  above  the  centre  of 
^  three  kiblahs  or  prayer-niches  are 
be  words  in  Arabic :  '  'This  high  and 
■►stretching  moaqne  was  raised  hy  the 
bre  who  trusts  in  the  mercy  of  God, 
ie  compassionate,  the  alone  to  be  wor- 
kipped?'  The  Koran  says,  "Truly 
lOBqueshelonf  to  God,  worship  no  one 
be  with  Him?  *  *  The  slave  who  trusts 
t  God,  the  Aider,  Nasira'd  dunya  ya 
b  Abnl  Fath  Ahmad  Shah,  son  of  Mn- 
Domad  Shah,  son  of  Sultan  Mnzaffar." 
Through  the  £.  gate  is  the  Tomb  of 
femad  Shan  (2),  (repaired  1587). 
\a  domed  building  has  a  portico  to 
ie  S.  with  18  pilli^.  The  windows 
K  of  perforated  stonework.  The 
ntral  chamber  is  86  ft.  square.  It  is 
tred  with  marble  of  different  colours. 
h  centre  cenotaph  is  that  of  Ahmad 
kh,  the  one  to  the  W.  is  that  of  his 
H,  Muhammad  Shah,  and  that  on  the 
i  is  that  of  his  grandson,  Eutb  Shah. 
SO  yds.  to  the  E.  across  the  street  are 
B  Tomtm  of  the  qaeeiiB  of  Ahmad 
tah  (2).  *  The  houses  are  so  close  that 
tj  onite  shut  out  the  fa9ade  of  the 
nsolemn,  which  is  raised  on  a  plat- 
tm.  In  the  facade  are  18  hiffhlj 
Bamented  carved  recesses.  Inside  is 
rectangolar  court,  with  a  corridor 
iming  round  it.  In  the  centre  are  eight 
^  cenotaphs  and  several  small  ones, 
le  centre  tombstone  is  of  white 
nble,  finely  carved,  and  is  the  tomb 
Uoghlai  Bibi.  It  is  of  black  stone 
marble,  inlaid  with  white.  This 
iflding  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Ahmeda- 
d,  but  mnch  out  of  repair. 
Itai  Si]»azl*8  Mosque  and  Tomb  (4)  * 
»  almost  the  most  beautiful  monu- 
Bits  in  Ahmedabad.  Rani  SifMui  was 
e  of  the  wives  of  Mahmud  Bigadah, 
d  mother  of  Prince  Ahmad.  Her 
•que  and  tomb  were  completed  in 
14.  '<  They  are  the  first  of  a  series 
buildings  more  delicately  ornate  than 
f  that  preceded."  *  The  mosaue  has 
Bunarets,  about  50  ft.  high,  having 
In  1781  Mr.  Forbes,  In  his  OrUntal 
Moire,  said  of  them :  "A  circular  flight  of 
pi  led  to  a  gallery  near  the  top  of  each, 
tttte  fDrce  at  the  arch  of  the  upper  gallery 
de  both  minarets  shake,  though  the  roof  of 
>  Bosque  remained  unmoved. 
^T^Wi  Ahimtdabad. 

[Mte] 


four  compartments  taperinff  up  to  the 
top.  The  roof  is  supported  by  a  row 
of  6  coupled  piDars  with  single  ones 
behind.   The  roza,  or  tomb,  is  36  ft.  sq. 

Daitiir  Khan's  Mosque  (6),  built  in 
1486  by  one  of  Mahmua  Bigadah's 
ministers.  Remark  the  open  stone 
screen-work  that  shuts  in  the  cloister 
round  the  courtyard.  In  the  gateway 
the  marks  of  shot  may  be  seen.  A  few 
yds.  to  the  E.  of  Dastur  Khan's  Mosque 
IS  Ata  BhiVa  Mounds  the  site  of  the 
fort  of  the  Bhil  chief,  from  whom  the 
town  of  Asaval  had  its  name. 

A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Jamalpur 
Gate  is  Haibat  Xhaa'a  Kosque  (6), 
which  is  interesting  as  one  of  the  earliest 
attempts  to  combine  Mohammedan  and 
Hindu  elements.  Haibat  Khan  was 
one  of  the  noblemen  of  Ahmad  Shah's 
court.  The  mosque  is  very  plain.  The 
front  wall  is  pierced  by  three  small 
pointed  arches  some  distance  apart. 
The  minarets  are  small  and  witiiout 
ornament,  and  rise  like  chimneys  from 
the  roof.  The  central  dome,  of  Hindu 
workmanship  and  of  great  beauty,  is 
barely  raised  above  the  others.  The 
piUars,  taken  from  different  temiles, 
display  every  variety  of  rich  ornament. 
Except  for  the  form  of  its  dome,  the 
outer  porch  would  suit  a  Hindu  temple. 

The  Tin  Darwaiah,  or  Three  Gate- 
ways  (7),  built  by  Sultan  Ahmad  I,, 
is  of  stone  richly  carved.  It  crosses 
the  main  street  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the 
Jumma  Musjid.  The  terrace  on  the 
top  of  the  gateway  was  formerly  roofed 
over,  but  was  thrown  open  in  1877. 
This  gateway  led  into  the  outer  court 
of  the  Bhadr,  known  as  the  Royal 
Square,  and  was  surrounded,  in  1688, 
by  two  rows  of  palm  trees  and  tamarinds 
(J.  A.  de  Mandelslo's  Voyages^  1662,  p. 
76).  Facing  the  Bhadr  Gate  is  a  muni- 
cipal garden.  K.  of  the  garden  is  the 
High  School,  and  to  the  W.  the  Hema- 
bhai  Institute,  with  a  good  library  and 
newspapers  and  periodicals.  Near  it  is 
the  Mosque  of  Malilc  ShalUui,  with  an 
inscription  that  says  it  was  built  in  the 
reign  of  Kutb-ud-dm,  by  Sh'aban,  son  of 
'Imadu'l  mulk,  in  866  a.h.  =1462  a.d. 

The  Bhadr  (8),  (pronounced  Bhvd- 
der)  an  ancient  enclosure  or  citadel, 
biiilt  by  Ahmad  Shah,  1411,  and  named 

I 


114 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


after  the  goddess  Bhadra,  a  propitious 
form  of  Kali,  is  occupied  by  public 
offices.  In  the  E.  face  is  the  Palacei 
built  by  'Aiam  Khan  (9)»  the  23d 
Viceroy  (1635-42),  who  .was  called 
Udaif  "the  white  ant,"  from  his  love 
of  building.  It  is  now  the  jail.  Over 
the  entrance  is  a  Persian  chronogram, 
giving  the  date  1636  a.d.  The  N, 
entraaice  to  the  Shadr  is  very  handsome. 
The  gate  is  18  ft.  high,  under  an  arch- 
way, opening  into  a  regular  octagonal 
hail  of  great  elegance,  containing,  in 
the  upper  story,  an  arched  gaUery, 
and  miving  in  front  a  low  wall  of 
open-cut  stone,  each  gallery  surmounted 
by  a  cupola.  Underneath  this  hall  is 
a  fine  vaulted  chamber,  entered  by  a 
flight  of  steps  at  each  side,  with  a  reser- 
voir and  fountain  in  the  middle.  Close 
to  the  Jail  is  a  temple  to  Bhadra  Kali 
Mata.  At  the  K.E.  comer  is  81di  Say- 
yad^a  Hosqna  (12),*  which  forms  paxt 
of  the  wall ;  it  is  now  the  Mumlutdar's 
office.  Two  of  its  windows  are  filled 
with  delicate  stone  traceiv  of  tree- 
stems  and  branches  beautifully  wrought. 
Mr.  Fergusson,  who  cives  an  illustra- 
tion of  one  of  the  windows,  says  in  his 
HiA.  of  Arch.  :  "  It  would  be  difficult 
to  excel  the  skill  with  which  the  vege- 
table forms  are  conventionalised  just 
to  the  eztent  required  for  the  purpose. 
The  equal  spacing  also  of  the  subject 
by  the  three  ordinary  trees  and  four 
palms  takes  it  out  of  the  category  of 
direct  imitation  of  nature,  and  renders 
it  sufficiently  structural  for  its  situa- 
tion ;  but  perhaps  the  greatest  skill  is 
shown  in  the  even  manner  in  which  the 
pattern  is  spread  over  the  whole  surface. 
There  are  some  exquisite  specimens  of 
tracery  in  precious  marbles  at  Agra  and 
Delhi,  but  none  quite  equal  to  this." 

In  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Bhadr  is 
Ahmad  Shah's  Mosque  (10),  built  by 
him  in  1414,  20  years  before  the  Jumma 
Musjid,  being  perhaps  the  oldest  here. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  used  as  the  king's 
private  chapel.  Left  on  advancing  to- 
wards the  mosque,  was  once  die  OanJ-i- 
Shahid  or  store  of  Martyrs,  where  were 
buried  the  Moslems  killed  in  storm- 
ing the  town.  The  fa9ade  is  almost 
bare  of  ornament,  with  ill-designed 
pointed  arches.    The  two  minarets  are 


evidently  unfinished.  The  mirnbary  or 
pulpit,  is  adorned  with  what  looks  hke 
Laurel  leaves.  The  architecture  shows 
the  first  attempts  at  building  a  Moslem 
edifice  in  what  had  been  a  Hindu  citv. 
The  pillars  still  bear  Hindu  figures  and 
emblems.  The  N.  porch,  leading  into  the 
latticed  ladies'  gallery,  is  Hindu  throagb- 
out,  and  may  be  part  of  a  temple. 

W.  of  this  mosque  is  the  Hanik  Bmj 
(11)  or  Buby  Bastion,  built  round  the 
foundation-stone  of  the  city.  There  is  a 
small  round  tomb  in  the  yard  near  the 
collector's  office,  which  is  said  to  be  that 
of  Ibrahim  Kuli  Khan,  a  Persian  warrior. 

Shah  Wajiha-din'8  Tomb  (13),  boik 
by  Saiyad  Murtaza  Khan  Bokhari,  11th 
Viceroy,  1606-1609,  is  a  very  beautiful 
monument. 

Sayyad  'Alam's  Mosqua  (14),  built 
about  1420  by  Abubakr  HusainL  The 
inner  details  are  as  rich  as  Hindu  art  i 
could  make  them.  S.  of  this  170  ^ 
yds.  is 

The  Basi  Hnsjid  (Queen's  Mowiiie) 
(15)  in  Mirzapwr,  a  few  yds.  to  the  S. 
of  the  D.B.,  built  probably  in  Sultan 
Ahmad  I.'s  reign.  There  are  two; 
minarets,  unfinished  or  partly  destroyed  \ 
by  an  earthquake,  and  now  only  33  ft 
high.  The  roof  has  three  domes,  and 
is  supported  by  36  plain  pillars.  To 
the  N.K  of  the  mosque  is  the  roza  or. 
tomb  (restored).  Under  the  dome  are 
two  cenotaphs  of  white  marble ;  the 
central  one  is  the  tomb  of  Rupavati,  a< 
princess  of  Dhar.  It  is  in  good  preserva- 
tion,  while  that  on  the  W.  side  is 
much  injured;  both  are  ornamented 
with  the  chain  and  censer,  a  Hindu 
device.  Mr.  Fergusson  has  given  a 
plan  of  this  mosque,  and  says,  ''The 
lower  part  of  the  minaret  is  of  pure 
Hindu  architecture.  "We  can  follow 
the  progress  of  the  development  of  this 
form  from  the  first  rude  attempt  in  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  through  all  its  stages 
to  the  exquisite  patterns  of  the  Queen's 
Mosque  at  Mirzapur." 

The  Mosque  of  Shaik  Hasan  Mn- 
hammad  Chishti  in  Shahpur  (16)  is  in 
the  N.  W.  angle  of  the  city,  not  far  from 
the  Sabarmati,  1565  a.d.  The  minarets 
are  unfinished.  "The  tracery  in  the 
niches  of  their  bases  is  perhaps  superior 
to  any  other  in  the  city.*'    On  the  S.  or 


ROUTE  6.       ENVIRONS  OF  AHJIEDABAD 


11« 


left  side  of  the  central  arch  is  a  Persian 
Quatrain.  This  chronogram  giyes  the 
date  1566  A.D. 

N.  of  the  city  is  the  Mosque  of 
Muhafiz  Khan  (17),  which  is  350  yds. 
to  the  K  of  the  D.B.,  and  was  built  in 
1465  by  Jamal-ud-din  Muhafiz  Khan, 
governor  of  the  city  in  1471  under 
Mahmud  Begadah.  It  is  the  bestpre- 
served  of  all  the  mosques ;  and  Hope 
says,  *4ts  details  are  exquisite,"  and 
he  considers  that  the  minarets  of  this 
mosque  and  those  of  Bani  Sipari  "  sur- 
pass those  of  Cairo  in  beauty."  * 

S.  of  this  mosque  is  the  modem  Swaml 
IfArayan'B  Temple  (18),  finishedin  1850. 
It  has  an  octagonal  dome,  supported  on 
12  pillars,  and  is  a  fine  building. 

Close  to  it  is  the  Panjrapol  or  Asylum 
far  Animcds.  The  enclosure  is  sur- 
rounded by  sheds  where  about  800 
animals  are  lodged.  There  is  also  a 
room  where  insects  are  fed.  Close  to 
the  S.  of  it  are  nine  tombs,  each  18  ft. 
8  in.  long,  called  the  Nan  Gaz  Pin, 
"the  Nine  Yard  Saints."  They  are 
most  likely  the  tombs  of  a  number  of 
men  killed  in  some  battle. 

The  Mosque,  Tomb,  and  College  of 
i  Shnja'at  Khan.— -This  mosque  has  two 
'slender  minarets  and    is   divided  by 
I  piers  into  five  bays,  and  over  the  kiblah 
I  are  written  the  creed  and  date =1695. 
I  The  walls,  up  to  6  ft,  are  lined  with 
marble.     The  tomb  is  of  brick,  with  a 
marble  floor,  much  destroyed.  It  is  called 
both  the  Marble  and  the  Ivory  Mosque. 
Ahmedabad    is    celebrated    for   its 
Hazidicraftsmen  —  goldsmiths,  jewel- 
lers, etc.,  who  carry  the  chopped  form 
of  jewellery  (the  finest  archaic  jewellery 
in  India)  to  the  highest  perfection ; 
copper  and  brass- workers,  as  instanced 
particularly  in  the  very  graceful  and 
delicate  brass    screens    and  pwndans 
(spice  -  boxes) ;   carpenters,   who  have 
long  been  famous  for  their  superior 
carving  in  shisJia/in,  or  mongrel  black- 
wood,  of  which  the  finest  specimens 
are  to  be  foimd  here ;  stone-masons, 
lacquer -workers,  carvers  in    ivory, — 
also  for  the  manufacture  of  **  Bombay 
boxes";   mock  ornaments  for  idols'; 
leather  shields ;  cotton  doth  (4  monster 
■team-factories) ;  calico-printing,  gold- 


steam-factories) ;  calico-printing,  gold- 
figured  sUks,  and  gold  and  silver  tissues ; 
kincobs,  or  brosa^es  (the  noblest  pro- 
duced in  India) ;  sold  and  silver  lace 
and  thread,  and  all  manner  of  tinsel 
ornaments. 

Its  industrial  importance  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that  "the  Nagar-Sethj  or  city 
lord,  of  Ahmedabad  is  the  titular  head 
of  all  the  Guilds  and  the  highest  person- 
age in  the  city,  and  is  treatea  as  its 
representative  by  the  Goveiument."^ 

Ca/rpets  have  also  become  a  speciality 
of  Ahmedabad,  and  the  manufactories, 
as  weU  as  the  workshops  of  the  other 
crafts  are  well  worth  visiting. 

ENVIRONS. — For  12  m.  round  Ahme- 
dabad the  country  is  full  of  interesting 
ruins  ;  but  here  only  the  principal  can 
be  mentioned.  Just  outside  the  Delhi 
Gfate,  rt.  of  the  road,  is  the  Hathi  Sing's 
Temple  (19),*  a  modem  building,  sui-- 
mounted  by  53  pagoda  domes.  This 
and  a  rest-house  and  family  mansion 
close  by  were  finished  in  1848,  at  a  cost 
of  1,000,000  rs.  The  dimensions  oi 
this  temple  are  of  the  first  order ;  its 
style  the  pure  Jain ;  and  it  stands  a 
convincing  proof  that  the  native  archi 
tecture  has  not  been  extinguished  by 
centuries  of  repression.  In  its  sculp- 
tures may  be  seen  representations  oi 
the  24  holy  mentor  Tirthankars,  and 
hundreds  of  other  images,  all  similar, 
but  each  labelled  on  the  base  with  the 
emblem  of  some  distinct  Jain.  The 
entrance  is  from  a  courtyard  surrounded 
by  a  corridor,  where  woollen  slippers 
are  provided,  before  ascending  a  portico 
richly  carved  and  supported  by  pillars. 
The  Temple  consists  of  an  outer  and  an 
inner  chamber,  both  paved  with  coloured 
marbles  chiefly  from  Makran  in  Rajpu- 
tana :  in  the  latter  is  the  image  of  Dharm- 
nath,  who  is  represented  as  a  beautiful 
youth,  with  a  sparkling  tiara  of  imitation 
diamonds.  Mr.  Fergusson  says:  "Each 
part  increases  in  dignity  to  the  sanctu- 
ary. The  exterior  expresses  the  interior 
more  completely  than  even  a  Gothic 
design,  ana,  whether  looked  at  from  its 
courts  or  from  the  outside,  it  possesses 
variety  without  confusion,  and  an  ap- 
propriateness of  every  part  to  the  pur- 

1  Bee    Rise    Burgess,    ArchitMtllXt    Of 

AlunadalMia. 


116 


BOUTB  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


pose  intended."  N.W.  of  thia  is  the 
ruined  Tomb  of  Darya  Khan  (20), 
1453,  minister  of  Mahmud  Shah  Begada. 
The  dome  is  9  ft.  thick,  and  the  largest 
in  Guzerat.  Not  far  beyond  it  is  the 
Chota  or  small  Shahi  Bagh,  of  no 
architectural  interest,  now  a  private 
house,  where  it  is  said  the  ladies  of  the 
royal  harem  lived.  Across  the  railway 
line  is  the  Shahi  Bagh,  a  very  line 
garden-house,  now  the  residence  of  the 
Commissioner  of  the  Division.  A  sub- 
terranean passage  is  said  to  communicate 
between  the  two  places.  The  building 
was  erected  in  1622  by  Shah  Jehan, 
when  Viceroy  of  Ahmedabad,  to  give 
work  to  the  poor  during  a  season  of 
scarcity.  In  uie  16th  century  this  was 
the  great  resort  for  the  people  of  the 
city.  The  Shahi  Bagh  is  close  to  the 
railway  bridge  over  the  Sabarmati, 
which  river  it  overlooks.  Half  a  m. 
S.  W.  of  the  Shahi  Bagh  is  lUyaxi  Khan 
Chisti's  Mosque  (22),  built  in  1465  by 
Malik  Maksud  Yazir ;  and  i  m.  more  to 
the  S.  W.  is  Achnt  Bibi's  Mosque  (21), 
built  in  1469,  by  'Imadu'l  mulk,  one  of 
Begada's  ministers,  for  his  wife  Bibi 
Achut  Euki,  whose  tomb  is  close  by. 
There  were  seven  minarets  here,  all  of 
which  were  thrown  down  in  the  earth- 
quake of  1819.  Returning  from  this 
point,  the  traveller  nwiy  drive  to  the 
N.E.  side  of  the  city,  to  Asarva,  which 
is  about  i  m.  N.£.  of  the  Daryapur 
Gate,  where  are  the  Wells  of  Dada  Haii 
(23)*  and  Mata  Bhawani.  The  real 
name  of  Dada  is  said  by  the  local  people 
to  have  been  Halim,  *'  mild,"  and  they 
call  him  Dada  HarL  He  is  said  to  have 
been  the  husband  of  the  Dai,  or  Nurse 
of  one  of  the  Kings.  There  is  an  ascent 
from  the  road  to  the  platform  which 
surrounds  the  weU's  mouth.  A  domed 
portico,  supported  by  12  pillars,  gives 
entrance  to  3  tiers  of  finely  constructed 
galleries  below  ground,  which  lead  to  the 
octagonal  well,  and  inscriptions  in 
Sanscrit  and  Arabic  The  well  beyond 
the  octagonal  one  has  pillars  round  it, 
and  a  fence  wall.  Beyond  this  is  a 
circular  well  for  irrigation.  A  very 
narrow  staircase  leads  to  the  level 
ground,  where  by  the  side  of  the  well 
are  two  stone  mandaps.  About  50  yds. 
to  the  W.  is  Dada  BarCa  Mo8que,  one 


of  the  best   decorated   bnildinp  at 
Ahmedabad,  though  no  marble  is  em- 
ployed.   The  stone  is  of  a  duU  reddisb- 
gray  colour.     The  bases  of  the  two 
minarets  are  richly  carved.     A  portion   | 
of  them  was  thrown  down  by  the  earth-   | 
quake  of  1819.     To  the  N.  is  the  Boa  | 
of  Dada  Hari  or  Halim,    The  N.  door  i 
is  exquisitely  carved,  but  the  inside  is  \ 
quite  plain. 

Mata  Bhawani  (24).— This  weU  ia 
about  100  yds.  N.  of  Dada  Hari's,  but  I 
is  much  older,  and  is  thought  to  be  of  : 
the  time  of  Earan,  when  Ahmedabed 
was  called  Earanavati.     The  descent  '• 
to  the  water  from  the  platform  is  by 
52  steps  and  pillared  galleries  as  at 
Dada  Mari.     The  porticoes  are  quite 
plain,  and  the  well  is  altogether  inferior 
to  that  of  Dada  Hari. 

Most  of  the  houses  in  the  Madhavpwa 
suburb  are  warehouses,  and  it  is  the 
great  business  quarter.     Saraspur  is  a 
distinct  walled  town,  the  largest  of  the  ' 
suburbs.     It  is  E.  of  the  rly.  statioiL  j 
In  this  suburb  is  the  Jain  Temple  of  I 
Chintaman  (25),  restored  in  1868  by  I 
Shantidas,  a  rich  merchant,  at  a  cost 
of  900,000  rs.     Aurangzib  defiled  it  by 
having  a  cow's  throat  cut  in  it,  and, 
breaking  the  images,  changed  it  into  a 
mosque.    The  Jams  petitioned  the  Em- 
peror Shah  Jehan,  who  ordered  his  son 
to  repair  and  restore  the  temple.     But 
in  1666  Thevenot  speaks  of  it  as  a 
mosque  ( Voyages,  v.  p.  28). 

f  m.  S.E.  of  the  Raipur  Gate  is 
the  Hauz-i-Eutb,  generally  oalled  the 
Kankariya  Lake  (26),  or  Pebble  Lake. 
This  reservoir,  one  of  the  largest  of 
its  kind  in  this  part  of  India,  is  a 
regular  polygon  of  34  sides,  each  side 
190  ft.  long,  uie  whole  being  more  than 
1  m.  round.  The  area  is  72  acres.  It 
was  constructed  by  Sultan  Eutb-ud-din 
in  1451,  and  was  then  surrounded  by 
many  tiers  of  cut-stone  steps,  with  six 
sloping  approaches,  flanked  by  cupolas 
and  an  exquisitely  carved  water-sluice. 
In  the  centre  was  an  island,  with  a  gar- 
den called  Nagina  or  the  Gem,  and  a 
pavilion  called  Ghattamandal.  In  1872 
Mr.  Borrodaile,  the  collector,  repaired 
the  building,  and  made  a  road  to  the 
Rajpur  Gate.  On  the  K  bank  of  the 
lake  are  some  Duteh  and  Armeniitt 


ROUTE  6.      ENYIBONB  OF  AHHEDABAD 


117 


tombs,  Saracenic  in  style,  with  domes 
and  pillars.  They  are  a  good  deal 
niinea.  The  dates  range  from  1641  to 
1689. 

BarkheJ  is  6  m.  tx>  the  S.W.  of  the 
Jamalpore  Gate,  whence  a  dvmini,  or 
coTered  cart  on  springs,  with  a  good 
horse,  will  take  two  people  comfortably 
in  an  hour.  The  start  must  be  made 
in  the  early  morning.  The  road  crosses 
the  Sabarmati  river  by  a  modem 
bridge.  The  river-bed  during  the  day 
18  one  of  the  most  interesting  sights 
in  Ahmedabad.  The  sand  is  dotted 
with  enclosures  for  the  cultivation  of 
melons,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables, 
and  the  running  water  is  lined  with 
gaily -dressed  women  washing  their 
dothes.  Garments  of  every  shape  and 
of  the  brightest  colours  are  laid  out  to 
dry.  These  persons  are  not  profes- 
sional washerwomen,,  but  belong  to 
many  classes  of  society.  The  remains 
of  a  bridge  will  be  seen  near  the  cross- 
ing ;  both  it  and  the  railway  bridge 
were  carried  away  by  the  great  flood  m 
1875,  but  the  latter  was  at  once  restored. 
ISTear  the  bridge  the  city  wall  is  from 
40  to  60  fL  high.  The  road  from  the 
river's  bank  is  good,  with  rich  fields 
\  on  either  side,  and  at  IJm.  rt  is  the 
i  massive  brick. 

^    Hansoleum  of  'Azam  and  Mozam, 

!  biult  probably  in  1457.  These  brothers 

\  are  said  to  have  been  the  architects  of 

;  Sarkhej,  and  to  have  come  from  Ehor> 

I  asan.     The  immense  structure  which 

contains  their  tombs  is  raised  on  a 

;  platform.      About  300  yds.  from  the 

principal  buildings  at  Sarkhej  there 

are  two  brick  towers  about  30  ft.  high, 

the  bases  of  which,  close  to  the  ground, 

;  liave  been  so  dug  away  that  it  seems  a 

;  miracle  they  do  not  fall.    After  another 

200  yds./  the  road  passes  under  two 

arches,  leading  into  the  courtyard  of 

Sarkhej.     To  the  left  on  entering  is 

the  fine  mausoleum  of  Mahmud  Bigadah 

and  his  sons,  and  connected  with  it 

by  a  beautiful  portico  another  equally 

magnificent  tomb  on  the  border  of  the 

tank  for  his  queen  R^jabai.    To  the  rt. 

38  the  Tomb  of  the  Saint  Shaik  Ahmc^ 

KhaUu  Ocmj  Bakfuhy  called  also  Magh- 


rabi.  Ganj  Bakhsh  lived  at  Anhalwada, 
and  was  the  spuitual  guide  of  Sultan 
Ahmad  I.,  and  a  renowned  Moham- 
medan saint;  he  retired  to  Sarkhej, 
and  died  there  in  1446  at  the  age  of  111. 
This  magnificent  tomb  and  mosque 
were  erec&d  to  his  memory.  The  tomb 
is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  Guzerat, 
and  has  a  great  central  dome  and  many 
smaller  ones.  Over  the  central  door  of 
the  tomb  is  a  Persian  quatrain.  It  gives 
the  date  1473  a.d.  Tne  shrine  inside  is 
octagonal,  surrounded  by  finely- worked 
brass  lattice- windows.  The  pavement 
is  of  coloured  marbles,  and  the  dome 
inside*^  richly  gilt, — from  it  hangs  a 
long  silver  chain  which  once  reached 
to  the  ground.  The  vast  adjoining 
Moaqtie  is  the  perfection  of  elegant  sim- 
plicity: it  has  10  cupolas  supported 
on  18  pillars.  The  whole  of  these 
buildings,  says  Mr.  Fergusson,  ''are 
constructed  without- a  single  arch  ;  all 
the  pillars  have  the  usual  bracket 
capitals  of  the  Hindus,  and  all  the 
domes  are  on  the  horizontal  principle." 
S.  of  the  saint's  tomb  is  that  of  his 
disciple  Shaik  Salahu-din. 

Mahmud  Begurra  excavated  the  great 
tank  of  17i  acres,  surrounded  it  by 
flights  of  stone  steps,  constructed  a 
richly -decorated  supply -sluice,  and 
built  at  its  S.W.  comer  a  splendid 
palace  and  harem  (now  in  ruins). 

With  the  lake,  the  Sarkhej  buildings 
form  the  most  beautiful  group  in  Ahme- 
dabad. They  belong  to  the  best  period 
of  the  style,  and  have  the  special  in- 
terest of  being  almost  purely  Hindu, 
with  only  the  faintest  trace  of  the 
Mohammedan  style.  Numbers  of 
people  bathe  in  the  tank  in  spite  of  the 
alligators.  A  little  S.  of  the  lake  is 
the  tomb  of  Baba  Ali  Sher,  a  saint  even 
more  venerated  than  Ganj  Bakhsh.  It 
is  small,  ugly,  and  whitewashed.  Close 
by  are  the  remains  of  Mirza  Ehan 
Khanan's  Garden  of  Victory,  laid  out 
in  1584  affcer  his  defeat  of  Muzaffar 
III.,  the  last  Ahmedabad  king.  In 
the  17th  century  Sarkhej  was  so  famous 
for  indigo,  that  in  1620  the  Dutch 
established  a  factoiy  there. 

From  Ahmedabad  another  expedition 
may  be  made  to  Batwa,  which  is  almost 
5  m.  due  S.  of  the  Rajpur  Gate.    Here 


118 


ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


InSk 


Burhanu-din Eutbu '1-Alam,  thegrand- 
son  of  a  famous  aaint  buried  at  Uch  on 
theSutlej,  is  interred.  He  came  to  the 
court  of  Sultan  Ahmad  I.,  settled  at 
Batwa,  and  died  there  in  1452.  A 
vast  mausoleum  of  fine  design  and 
proportions  was  erected  to  his  memory. 
It  resembles  the  buildings  at  Sarkhei 
but  the  aisles  are  arched  and  yaulted, 
and  the  dome  is  raised  by  a  second 
tier  of  arches.  The  workmanship  is 
most  elaborate,  but  the  building  is 
unfortunately  much  out  of  repair. 
Adjoining  it  are  a  mosque  and  tank. 

The  tomb  of  Shah  ^Alam  is  2  m. 
S.E.  of  the  town  on  the  Batwii  road. 
Before    reaching  the  tomb   the  road 
passes  under  two  plain  gateways,  and 
then  through  one,  with  a  Nakar  Khana 
(music  gallery)  aboye  the  archway,  and 
so  into  a  rast  court.     To  the  W.  is  the 
mosque,    which  has  two  minarets  of 
seven  stories,  handsomely  carved  and 
about  90  ft.  high.     The  tomb  of  Shah 
'Alam,  who  was  the  son  of  the  saint 
buried  at  Batwa,  is  to  the  £.,  and  is 
protected  by  metal  lattices :  he  was  the 
spiritual  guide  of  Mahmud  Begadah,  and 
oied  in  1495.    To  the  S.  is  an  assembly 
hall  built  bv  Muzaffar  III.  (1561-72), 
and  partly  destroyed  by  the  British  in 
1780  to  furnish  materials  for  the  siege 
of  the  city.     The  tomb  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  Taj  Khan  Nariali,  one  of 
Mahmud's  courtiers.     Early  in  the  1 7th 
century    Asaf    Khan,   brother  of  the 
Empress  Nur  Jehan,  adorned  the  dome 
with  gold  and  precious  stones.     The 
floor  of  the  tomb  is  inlaid  with  black 
and  white  marble,  the  doors  are  of  open 
brass  work,   and  the  frame  in  which 
they  are  set,  as  well  as  what  shows  be- 
tween the  door-frame  and  the  two  stone 
pillars  to  the  right  and  left  is  of  pure 
white  marble  l^utifuUy  carved  and 
pierced.     The  tomb  itself  is  enclosed 
by  an  inner  wall  of  pierced  stone.     The 
outer  wall  in  the  N.  is  of  stone  trellis- 
work  of  the  most  varied  design,  and 
here  Shaik   Kabir,   renowned   for  his 
learning,  who  died  in  1618,  is  buried. 
The  mosque  was  built  by  Muhammad 
Salih  Badakhshi.     The  minarets  were 
begun  by  Nizabat  Khan,  and  finished 
by    Saif   Khan.      They    were    much 
damaged  by  the  earthquake  of  1819, 


but  have  been  repaired,  and  are  now 
in  good  order.  To  the  S.  of  the  mosque 
is  a  tomb  like  that  of  the  cmef 
mausoleum  where  the  family  of  Shah 
'Alam  are  buried.  Outside  the  vail 
to  the  W.  is  a  reservoir,  built  by  the 
wife  of  Taj  Khan  Nariali. 

Another  day  may  be  spent  in  visiting 
the  Monastery  of  Pvrana,  which  is  tt  < 
the  village  of  Giramtha,  9  m.  S.  of 
AhmedalMid.  The  mausoleums  an 
those  of  Imam  Shah,  Nurshah,  Surab- 
hai,  Bala  Muhammad,  and  Bakir  'AIL 
The  legend  is  that  Imam  Shah  came 
from  Persia  in  1449,  and  performed 
certain  miracles,  which  induced  Mo- 
hammad II.  to  give  him  his  daughtar 
in  marriage.  On  the  anniversary  of 
Imam  Shah's  death  a  fair  is  held, 
attended  by  many  Hindus. 

There  are  many  other  interesting 
ruins  near  Ahmedabad,  but  these  are 
the  principal,  and  to  see  all  wonld  take 
months. 


Leaving  Ahmedabad,  the  railway 
crosses  the  Sabarmati  river  quite  close 
to  the  Shah-i-bagh  on  a  fine  bridge, 
which  carries  the  rails  for  both  gauges 
and  a  footway  on  one  side. 

At  314  m.  Sabarmati  junc  sta.  the 
narrow  gauge  conrinues  N.  to  Delhi, 
whilst  the  broad  gauge  turns  "W.  for 
Wadhwan  and  Kattywar  (Rte.  7). 
The  hew  JaU  here  is  one  of  the  largest 
in  the  Presidency. 

The  country  going  N.  is  flat  and 
well  cultivated.  The  beautiful  and 
celebrated  well  at  Adalaj  is  in  this 
direction,  but  can  perhaps  be  more 
easily  visited  by  road. 

850  m.  Mehsana  junc.  sta.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  important  railway 
centres  in  Guzerat,  as  it  is  the  junction 
for  three  branch  lines  constructed  hy 
the  Gaekwar  of  Baroda.  They  are: 
(1)  a  line  passing  through  Visnagar, 
Vadnagar,  and  Eheralo,  total  distance 
27  m.,  general  direction  N.E.  ;  (2) 
a  line  to  Patan,  the  historic  coital  ol 
Gu^erat,    distance  24  m.   N.W. ;   (8] 


ROUTE  6.       ENVIRONS  OF  AHMEDA6AD 


119 


ft  liue  to  Tiramgam,  40  m.  S.W., 
mftde  to  ooimeot  the  Rajputana  and 
Eattywar  metre-gauge  lines  of  railway. 
(For  Yiramgam  see  p.  152.) 

On  these  branch  lines  two  places 
only  need  be  noticed  here. 

[Vadxiagsr,  21  m.  N.E.  (pop. 
16,941).  This  place,  once  very  import- 
ant, is  stated  to  have  been  conquered 
by  a  Bajput  prince  from  Ayodhya  in 
145  A.D.  It  probably  occuj^ies  the 
site  of  Anandpura,  known  in  local 
history  since  226  a.d.  There  are  some 
interesting  ruins,  and  the  Temple  of 
Hatkeshvar  Mahadeo  is  worth  a  visit. 
It  is  now  the  religious  capital  of  the 
Nagar  Brahmans,  a  most  influential 
class  of  men  in  Guzerat  and  Eatty  war. 
It  was  long  the  chartered  refuge  of  the 
Dhinoj  Brahmans,  a  class  of  robbers 
who  were  protected  -and  taxed  by  suc- 
cessive native  governments  down  to 
quite  a  recent  date. 

Patan,  24  m.  N.W.  of  Mehsana 
(pop.  32,646).     The  city  stands  on  the 

:  site  of  the  ancient  Anhilvada,  capital 
of  the  Hindu  kings  of  Guzerat :  it  was 

.  taken  by  Mahmnd  of  Ghazni  on  his 
way  to  attack  the  temple  of  Somnath 
in  1024  A.D.     The  site  for  generations 

,  has  been  a  quarrv  whence  beautiful 
carved  stones  have  been  carried  to  other 
places.  It  is  still  famous  for  its 
ubraries  of  Jain  MSS.  There  are  no 
less  than  108  Jain  temples  here.] 

Kadi  the  N.  division  of  Baroda  in 
which  Sidhpur  is  situated  is  the  only 
part  of  the  whole  of  the  Bombay  Presi- 
dency in  which  Poppies  are  allowed  to 
be  grown.  The  opium  is  manufactured 
in  Sidhpur  at  the  State  Stores, 

366  m.  Unjha  sta.  A  town  in  the 
Baroda  territory  of  11,287  inhab.  and 
headquarters  of  the  Kadwakanbis, 
a  peculiar  caste  of  amculturists. 
Marriages  among  them  take  place  but 

I  once  in  11  years,  when  every  girl  over 
40  days  old  must  be  married  on  one  or 

I  other  of  the  days  fixed.  Should  no 
husband  be  found,  a  proxy  bridegroom 
is  sometimes  set  up  and  married  to  a 
number  of  girls  who  immediately  enter 
a  state  of  nominal  widowhood  until  an 


eligible  suitor  presents  himself,  when 
a  second  marriage  takes  place. 

374  m.  Sidhpnr  sta.  (pop.  16,224). 
It  stands  on  the  steep  northern  bank 
of  the  Sarasvati  river,  and  the  scene  in 
the  bed  of  the  river  during  the  day  in 
the  dry  weather  is  specially  gay.  The 
place  is  of  extreme  antiquity,  and  con- 
tains the  ruins  of  Eudra  Mala,  one  of 
the  most  famous  ancient  temples  in  W. 
India.  It  was  wrecked  by  Ala-ud-din 
Khilji  in  1297  ;  and  much  of  it  has  been 
carried  off  since  for  building  purposes. 
The  stones  are  gigantic,  and  the  carving 
superb,  but  very  little  of  it  remains. 
A  row  of  small  temples  is  converted  into 
a  mosque.  The  more  modem  temples 
are  very  numerous. 

393  m.  Palanpur  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
The  chief  town  of  a  native  state  of  that 
name,  the  residence  of  a  Political  Agent. 
[Rly.  N.W.  to  the  military  station  of 
Deesa  on  the  JR,  Bonos  18  m.  dis- 
tant.] 

425  m.  Abu  Road  sta.:^  (R.),  D.B. 
This  is  a  well-built,  attractive-looking 
place.  Mount  Abu  looking  down  on  it 
from  the  N.W. 

[The  excursion  to  Mount  Abu  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  in  India, 
more  especially  on  account  of  the  Jain 
temples.  The  ascent  to  it,  16J  m.,  is 
by  a  very  good  road,  fit  for  light- 
wheeled  tratuc  for  about  5  or  6  m., 
through  delightful  scenery,  with  fine 
views  across  a  wide  valley  towards  Achil- 
ghar.  Thence  by  pony  or  rickshaw 
(about  4  J  hrs.)  to  the  top  of  the  mount. 
Although  regarded  as  part  of  the  Ara- 
valli  range,  Abu  is  completely  detached 
from  that  chain  by  a  valley  about  15  m. 
wide.  The  plateau  at  the  top  is  about 
14  m.  by  4  m.,  and  varies  in  height 
from  4000  to  5600  ft.^ 


1  The  traveller  should  arrange  to  arrive  at 
Abu  Road  sta.  by  a  morning  train,  when 
he  will  have  time  to  arrange  for  the  trip  up 
to  Mount  Abu  in  the  evening  (having  pre- 
viously written  or  telegraphed  to  secure  rooms 
there  at  the  small  hotel),  allowing  himself 
about  6  hours'  daylight  for  the  journey.  The 
temples  can  be  seen  before  noon  the  following 
day,  the  light  lus^ge  started  downhill  before 


130 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


Indda 


MOUHT  Abu  3^  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  Rajputana  aidministration,  and  the 
residence  of  vakils  or  agents  from  a 
large  number  of  native  states.  It  is  also 
a  sanitarium  for  European  troop  and 
favourite  hot -weather  resort  in  the 
summer  season. 

The  height  of  the  civil  and  military 
station  is  4000  ft.  ;  the  highest  point  is 
in  the  northern  end. 

At  the  HeadquarUrs  are  the  Eesi- 
dency,  Churchy  Latorence  Asyliim  Schools 
for  children  of  soldiers,  BarrackSy  Cluh^ 
Bazaa/r  of  native  shops,  a  considerable 
number  of  private  houses  on  the  margin 
of  the  Gem  Lake,  a  most  charming  piece 
of  artificial  water  studded  with  islands, 
and  overhung  by  a  curious  rock  that 
looks  like  a  gigantic  toad  about  to 
spring  into  the  water.  The  BaUway 
Schools  for  children  are  outside  the 
station  tin  the  plateau.  The  surface  of 
Mount  Abu  is  very  much  broken  up,  so 
that  the  carriage  roads  are  very  few, 
but  there  are  plenty  of  bridle-road^  and 
picturesque  footpaths. 

The  Dilwarra  Temples,  the  great 
attraction  of  Mt  Abu,  are  reached  by  a 
good  bridle-path  (2m.)  A  pass  to  visit 
them  is  necessary. 

When  Europeans  first  settled  at  Abu 
the  temples  were  unguarded  and  open 
to  all  comers,  and  were  frequently  mis- 
used by  the  lower  classes  of  all  races. 
They  owe  their  improved  condition  to 
the-  exertions  of  educated  European 
officers,  a  fact  the  custodians  sometimes 
forget  in  their  conduct  towards  visitors. 
In  spite  of  ilV  usage  and  some  very  bad 
restoration,  the  Dilwarra  temples  are 
very  beautiful,  and  find  a  fitting  frame- 
work in  their  nest  of  mango  trees,  with 
green  fields  of  barley  waving  at  their 
feet,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the 
everlasting  hills. 

"The  more  modem  of  the  two 
temples  was  built  by  the  same  brothers, 
Tejahpala  and  Vastupala,  who  erected 
the  triple  temple  at  Girnar.  This  one,  we 
learn  from  inscriptions,  was  erected 
between  1197  and  1247,  and  for  minute 
delicacy  of  carving  and  beauty  of  detail 
stands  almost  unrivalled,  even  in  the 

breakfast,  the  visitor  following  in  the  after- 
noon in  time  to  catch  the  evening  train.  It 
will  be  found  cold  at  Aba  in  winter. 


land  of  patient  and  lavish  labcur.  It 
is  said  to  have  taken  14  years  to  build, 
and  to  have  cost  18,000,000  rs.  beffldn 
56  lakhs  spent  in  levelling  the  hill  on 
which  it  stands. 

**The  other,  built  by  another  mer- 
chant prince,  Yimala  Sah,  apparently 
about  1032  A.D.,  is  simpler  ana  bolder, 
though  still  as  elaborate  as  good  taste 
would  allow  in  any  purely  architectural 
object.  Being  one  of  the  oldest  as  well 
as  one  of  the  most  complete  examples 
known  of  a  Jain  temple,  its  peculiar- 
ities form  a  convenient  introduction  to 
the  style,  and  serve  to  illustrate  how 
complete  and  perfect  it  had  already 
become  when  we  first  meet  with  it  in 
India. 

*'The  principal  object  here,  as  else- 
where, is  a  cell  lighted  only  from  the 
door,  containing  a  cross-legged  seated 
figure  of  the  saint  to  whom  the  temple 
is  dedicated,  in  this  instance  Psurs- 
wanatha.  The  cell  terminates  upwards 
in  a  sikra,  or  pyramidal  spire-like  roof, 
which  is  common  to  all  Hindu  and 
Jain  temples  of  the  age  in  the  north 
of  India.  To  this  is  attached  a  ])ortico 
composed  of  48  free-standing  pillars; 
and  the  whole  is  enclosed  in  an  oblong 
courtyard,  about  140  ft.  by  90  ft,  sur- 
rounded by  a  double  colonnade  of 
smaller  pillars,  forming  porticoes  to  a 
range  of  55  cells,  which  enclose  it  on 
all  sides,  ezactiy  as  they  do  in  Buddhist 
viharas.  In  this  case,  however,  each 
cell,  instead  of  being  the  residence  of  a 
monk,  is  occupied  by  one  of  those  cross- 
legged  images  which  belong  alike  to 
Buddhism  and  Jainism.  Here  they 
are,  according  to  the  Jain  practice,  all 
repetitions  of  the  same  image  of  Pars- 
wanatha,  and  over  the  door  of  each 
coll,  or  on  its  jambs,  are  sculptured 
scenes  from  his  life.  The  long  beams, 
stretching  from  pillar  to  pillar,  sup- 
porting the  roof,  are  relieved  by  curions 
angular  struts  of  white  marble,  spring- 
ing from  the  middle  of  the  pillar  up  to 
the  middle  of  the  beam  "  (Fergusson). 

Achilghar  is  reached  by  following 
the  bridle-path  past  Dilwarra  for  about 
4  m.,  when  the  village  of  Uria  is  reached, 
where  there  is  a  bungalow.  From  this 
turn  r.  along  a  bad  track  for  another 
1  m.  to  the  first  temple.     It  is  sur- 


ROUTE  6.      EXCURSION  TO  JODHPUR 


121 


rounded  by  a  wall,  approached  by  a 
Hight  of  steps,  and  beautifully  orna- 
mented. S.E.  of  this  are  other  temples 
on  higher  ground  overlooking  the 
valley.  The  view  is  magnificent.  These 
are  the  buildings  the  traveller  has  seen 
in  ascending  the  hill.  S.  of  the  first 
temple  is  the  Agni  Kund,  a  tank  famous 
in  Hindu  mythology.  On  the  bank  is 
a  marble  image  of  Pramar  with  his 
bow,  and  near  him  three  large  stone 
buffaloes.  This  figure  is  superior  in 
style  and  treatment  to  most ;  and  the 
same  may  be  said  of  the  statues  in 
other  temples  around  the  Hill  of  Abu, 
specially  of  the  brass  figure  at  Gaumukh 
alluded  to  below.  The  Achilghar  group 
is  perhaps  as  attractive  as  the  more 
renowned  temples  at  Dilwarra,  though 
not  comparable  in  size  or  finish ;  but 
the  absence  of  modern  work,  and  an 
air  of  antiquity,  solidity,  and  repose, 
make  them  worthy  of  all  admiration. 

Around  Mount  Abu  in  the  plain  and 
on  the  hillside  are  many  temples,  some 
very  beautiful,  and  aU  in  charming 
spots ;  but  the  traveller  who  wishes  to 
visit  them  must  have  plenty  of  leisure 
and  be  a  good  walker,  and  must  always 
be  accompanied  by  a  guide.  It  is 
very  dangerous  to  leave  a  beaten  path 
on  the  sides  of  Abu  without  a  person 
who  knows  the  country  intimately. 

Qaumukhj  a  beautifully  situated 
temple  600  ft.  down  the  S.E  slope,  and 
3  m.  from  the  church.  Observe  the 
brass  figure  facing  the  temple. 

Bishi  KrisTiTUiy  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
S.E.  side,  14  m.  from  the  Civil  Station, 
is  easily  visited  from  Abu  Road  rail- 
way station. 

Oautama,  on  S.  side  of  the  hill,  W. 
of  Gaumukh  ;  5  m.  from  station. 
Lovely  view. 

Devangan^  in  the  plain,  S.W.,  2  m. 
S.  of  Anadra,  B.D.] 

528  m.    Marwar  Railway  junc.  sta. 

[Excursion  to  Jodbpur. 
From  this  point  the  Jodhpur-Bikanir 
Railway  branches  E.  to  44  m.  Zuni innc, 
sta.  (from  which  a  line  diverges  W.  to 
the  salt-works  at  Pachbadray  distant 
60  m.,  and  continues  in  K.  direction). 
Many  miles  before  reaching  Jodhpur 


the  fort  can  be  distinguished  rising 
abruptly  out  of  the  bare  plain. 

64  m.  JODHPXTB  sta.,  D.B.  the  capi- 
tal of  the  Rajput  state  of  that  name,  and 
of  the  country  known  as  Marwar  Carea, 
is  the  residence  of  the  Chief  and  of  a 
Political  Agent,  to  whom  it  is  necessary 
to  bring  an  introduction  asking  for 
permission  to  see  the  place. 

The  State  of  Jodhpur  or  Marwar 
covers  an  area  of  37,000  sq.  m.  with  a 
pop.  of  1,750,500.  The  CUy  was  built 
by  Rao  Jodha  in  1459,  and  from  that 
time  has  been  the  seat  of  government. 
It  stands  on  the  S.  extremity  of  a 
rocky  range  of  sandstone  hills  run- 
ning E.  and  W.,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  strong  wall  nearly  6  m.  in  extent, 
with  seven  gates,  each  bearing  the 
name  of  the  town  to  which  it  leads. 
Some  of  the  houses  and  temples  in  the 
city  are  of  stone  richly  carved.  Amongst 
the  most  important  buildings  are  the 
TempU  in  the  Dhan  Mundi  (wheat 
market)  and  the  Talati  Mai*  an  old 
palace  now  used  as  the  Darbar  High 
School. 

The  Fort  stands  up  boldly  some  800 
ft.  above  the  city  and  the  plain,  and 
presents  a  magnificent  appearance.  The 
rock  is  on  every  side  scarped,  but 
especially  at  the  N.  end,  where  the 
palace  is  built  on  the  edge  of  a  per- 
pendicular cliff  at  least  120  ft.  high. 
Strong  walls  and  numerous  round  and 
square  towers  encircle  the  crest  of  the 
hill.  A  modern  engineered  road  winds 
up  the  neighbouring  slopes  to  a  massive 
gateway.  Here  is  the  first  of  7  barriers 
thrown  across  the  zigzag  ascent,  having 
immense  portals  with  separate  guards 
in  each.  On  the  wall  of  the  last  are 
represented  the  hands  of  the  15  wives 
of  one  of  the  rajas  who  underwent 
saii  at  his  death. 

At  the  top  of  the  rock  are  the  highly- 
interesting  Old  Palaces,  Tliere  are 
courtyards  within  courtyards,  all  solidly 
built  andsurrounded  by  lattice  windows 
of  the  most  delicate  and  beautiful 
designs.  Here  in  the  Trea^sury  are  the 
Maharaja's  jewels,  a  wonderful  collec- 
tion, and  well  wortli  seeing.  Some  of 
the  pearls,  emeralds,  and  diamonds  are 
unusually  fine.  The  silver  trappings 
for  elephants  and  horses  should  also 


122 


ROUTl  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


Inik 


be  noticed.  The  view  from  the  palace 
windows  is  most  interesting  and  exten> 
siye,  and  shows  the  town  nestling 
under  the  huge  rock. 

There  was  formerly  great  scarcity  of 
water,  and  the  women  had  daUv  to 
walk  all  le  way  to  Mandor  (see  below) 
to  fetch  it,  but  now  it  has  been  brought 
up  to  the  top  of  the  Fort  in  pipes.  The 
principal  Tanks  are — 

The  Fadam  Samgwr  Tank,  in  the 
N.W.  part  of  the  city,  excavated  out 
of  the  rock,  but  of  small  size.  In 
the  same  quarter  is  the  Bami  Swiigar^ 
at  the  foot  of  the  W.  entrance  into  the 
Fort,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
outworks,  and  is  chiefly  reserved  for 
the  garrison  and  ladies  residing  in  the 
Fort  The  Chdab  Saugcur,  to  the  E., 
is  handsomely  built  of  stone,  and  is 
capacious,  with  a  smaller  one  adjoining 
it  The  Baiji  ka  Talao,  S.  of  the  city, 
is  extensive,  but  not  capable  of  holding 
water  long.  The  modem  Sardar  Sattgar^ 
on  N.  E.  1  m.  W.  is  a  lake  called  Ak- 
herajji  ka  TalaOf  which  is  a  fine  sheet 
of  water,  clear,  deep,  and  extensive,  re- 
sembling rather  a  natural  lake  than  an 
artificial  tank.  8  m.  N.  of  the  city  is 
the  BcU-Samandf  a  pretty  tank,  with  a 
palace  on  the  embankment  and  garden 
below,  used  by  the  Maharaja  as  a 
summer  residence.  The  Canal  from 
it  to  the  city  is  a  work  of  much  im- 
portance. 

The  chief  Sport  near  Jodhpur  is  pig- 
stickingj  the  pigs  being  preserved  by 
the  Maharaja. 

A  great  religious  fair  is  held  here  in 
March. 

S.E.  of  the  city  are  the  Baikabag 
Palace,  where  the  late  chief  resided, 
and  the  Jubilee  Buildi&g^  or  public 
offices  near  it,  designed  by  Col.  Jacob. 
In  the  native  style,  with  elaborate 
detail,  they  are  extensive  and  beautiful, 
and  deserve  attention. 

The  Palace  of  the  present  chief  is 
further  S. 

The  Public  Gardens,  and  fine  stone 
houses  of  the  officials,  have  now  re- 
placed the  barren  tract  that  formerly 
touched  the  city  walls  on  the  S.  side. 
These,  and  many  other  improvements, 
are  due  to  the  Prime  Minister,  Sir 
Partab  Sing,  G. O.S.I. 


At  about  i  m.  outside  the  N.E.  angle 
of  the  city  is  a  suburb  of  800  houses, 
called  the  Maha  Mandir,  or"eieat 
temple."  The  roof  of  the  temple  i$ 
supported  by  100  pillars,  and  tne  in* 
terior  is  richly  decorated.  This  subuA 
is  defended  by  a  stone  wall,  with  a  fei 
weak  bastions.  In  it  are  two  pedaceis 
in  one  of  which  the  spiritual  adviser « 
the  late  Maharaja  lives.  The  othe 
is  reserved  for  the  spirit  of  his  prede- 
cessor, whose  bed  is  laid  out  in  a  stati 
chamber,  with  a  golden  canopy  ovet 
the  pQlow ;  and  has  no  living  occupanf 
The  priests,  called  NathSy  have  1( 
nearly  all  their  former  prestige. 

Mandor. — This  was  the  capital 
Marwar  before  the  foundation  of  Jodl 
par.  It  is  situated  about  3  m.  .to 
N.  of  Jodhpur.  Here  are  the  ChaUA 
or  cenotaphs  (much  neglected),  of  tb 
former  rulers,  erected  on  the  spottj 
where  the  funeral  pyres  consumed  their 
remains.  Some  are  fine  massive  build-l 
ings, — ^that  dedicated  to  JjU  Singf  d. 
1724,  being  the  largest  and  finest 
These  *  *  proud  monuments, "  as  Tod  calls 
them,^  are  built  of  **a  close-grained 
freestone  of  a  dark  brown  or  red  tint, 
with  sufficient  hardness  to  allow  the 
sculptor  to  indulge  his  fancy.  The 
style  of  architecture  here  is  mixed, 
partaking  both  of  the  Shivite  and  the 
Buddhis^  but  the  details  are  decidedly 
Jain,  more  especially  the  columns. 
Across  a  little  stream  not  many  yards 
from  here  is  a  pantheon  called  the  J^riM 
of  the  SOO  million  gods,  containing  a 
row  of  gigantic  painted  figures  of  divini- 
ties and  heroes.  At  the  end  of  the 
long  building  where  these  figures  are 
arranged  is  a  curious  fresco  of  a  sea- 
piece.  Near  this  is  the  stone  palace  of 
Abhay  Sing^  who  succeeded  Ajit  Sing  in 
1724.  It  is  now  quite  deserted  and 
given  over  to  the  bats.  There  are  some 
fine  bits  of  trellis  screen-work  in  the 
garden.] 

128  m.  Merta  Bd.  junc.  for  Bikanir. 
Merta,  a  fortified  Marwar  town  of  some 
importance,  is  some  miles  from  the 
railway.  Near  this  town  was  fought 
a  decisive  battle  between  the  Marathas 
and  Rajputs,  in  which  the  former,  with 
the  treacherous  assistance  of  a  large 

1  For  full  details  see  Col.  Tod's  Rajasthana. 


ROUTE  6.       AJMERE 


123 


body  of  Pindharis  under  Amir  Ehan, 
inflicted  a  crushing  defeat  upon  the 
latter. 

[Ezcursion  to  Bikanir. 

35  m.  Nagaur.  A  fortified  town  of 
importance  in  Marwar.  The  crenel- 
lated wall,  houses,  and  groups  of 
temples  make  an  agreeable  break  in 
the  monotonous  rolling  desert. 

103  m.  Bikanir,  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  tbat  name.     The  ruling  chief 
is   descended  from  a    branch  of   the 
royal  house  of  Jodhpur.     The  state  has 
an  area  of  upwards  of  20,000  sq.  m., 
and  a  pop.   of  about  400,000.     The 
principal  part  of  the  state  is  desert, 
and  the  great  depth  (150  ft.  to  800  ft.) 
at  which  water  is  found  renders  culti- 
vation or  irrigation  impossible.      The 
chief  wealth  of  the  people  is  their  flocks 
and  herds,  which  feed  on  the  bushes  and 
scanty  herbage.  The  Maharaja's  palace 
at  Bikanir  itself  is  picturesque  and 
imposing,  viewed  from  a  distance.    But 
like  most  Hindu  palaces,  its  interior 
is  a  mass  of  small  irregular  suites  of 
rooms,  due  to  the  superstitious  custom 
which  forbids  a  chief  to  live  in  the 
apartments  of  his  predecessor.     "Pal- 
atial" loses  its  force  as  an  adjective, 
applied  to    native    Indian    interiors. 
Some  of  the  rooms  in  the  palace  are 
lined  with  willow-pattern  plates  and 
tiles  set  in  the  walls.     The  town  is 
surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  contains  a 
few  houses  with  handsome  fronts  of 
carved  stonework,  belonging  to  wealthy 
Jain  merchants.      A   political   agent 
resides  here,  and  his  garden,  green  with 
grass  and  bright  with  flowers,  is  a  veri- 
table oasis  in  the  desert,  which  beats 
with  its  sandy  waves  impotently  on 
the   surrounding  wall.      One  of  the 
deep  wells  should  be  seen  and  its  depth 
viewed  by  a  beam  of  light  reflected 
from  a  mirror.] 

216  m.  Sambhar  stat 

Sarribhar  Lake  is  situated  on  the 
border  of  the  Jeypore  and  Jodhpur 
states.  The  surrounding  country  is 
arid  and  sterile,  being  composed  of 
rocks  abounding  in  salt,  and  belonging 


to  the  Permian  system  ;  and  the  salt 
of  the  lake  comes  from  the  washing  of 
these  rocks.  The  bottom  is  tenacious 
black  mud  resting  on  loose  sand.  The 
lake  is  21  m.  long  from  E.  to  W.  after 
the  rains,  and  the  average  breadth  at 
that  time  is  6  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
the  depth,  1  m.  from  the  shore,  is  only 
2i  ft.  The  water  dries  up  from  October 
to  June,  and  leaves  about  an  inch  of 
salt  in  the  enclosures,  which  are  con- 
structed only  where  the  black  mud  is 
of  considerable  thickness. 

From  the  17th  century  the  salt  was 
worked  by  the  Jeypore  and  Jodhpur 
Governments  conjointly  till  1870,  when 
the  British  Government  became  lessees 
of  both  states.  The  works  are  on  the 
E.  and  N.  edges  of  the  lake.  The 
average  yearly  out-turn  is  from  300,000 
to  400,000  tons  of  salt,  and  the  cost 
of  storage  and  extraction  is  |d.  for  every 
82^  lbs.  When  the  salt  is  formed 
men  and  women  of  the  Barrar  caste 
wade  through  the  mud  and  lift  it  in 
large  cakes  into  baskets. 

221  m.  Phalera  stat.  N.  junc.  of 
R.M.  and  J.B.  railways. 

Proceeding  from  Marwar  junc.  (p.  121) 
towards  Ajmere,  after  leaving,  561  m., 
Haripnr  sta.,  D.B.,  the  line  engages  in 
a  rocky  ascent  which  continues  to  close 
to  582  m.,  Beawar  sta.,  D.B.,  an  im- 
portant town,  and  reaches 

615  m.  Ajmere  junc.  sta.,  if.  D.B. 
[From  this  place  a  line  runs  S.  to  Nus-  ' 
seerdbadf   Neemuchf   RiUlam,   Indore^ 
Mhow,  and  Khandwa  (see  Rte.  4).] 

Ajmere,  the  key  to  Bajputana  (pop. 
67,800),  is  the  capital  of  an  isolated 
British  district  in  the  Rajput  states. 
The  district  comprises  two  tracts  known 
as  Ajmere  and  Merwara  (pop.  541,900). 
The  Agent  of  the  Governor-General  for 
Rajputana,  whose  headquarters  are  at 
Abu,  is  ex-officlo  Chief  Commissioner 
of  Ajmere.  The  city  is  of  great  an- 
tiquity and  celebrity,  and  is  situated 
in  a  valley,  or  rather  basiu,  at  the  foot 
of  the  rocky  and  picturesque  Taragarh 
Hill  (3000  ft.  above  the  sea).  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  stone  wall  with  five 
gateways,  and  is  well  built,  containing 
many  fine  houses  of  stone  with  orna- 


124 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


mental  fagades.  Ajmere  was  founded 
in  146  A.D.  by  Ajaypal,  one  of  the 
Chohan  kings. 

In  1024,  Mahmud  of  Ghazni,  on  his 
way  to  Somnath  in  Kattywar,  sacked 
Ajmere,  and  Akbar  conquered  it  in 
1656. 

The  memory  of  the  Ajmere  Chishti 
was  held  in  particular  respect  by  the 
great  Akbar,  who  was  accustomed  to 
pay  a  yearly  visit  to  his  shrine. 
Several  of  these  pilgrimages  were  made 
on  foot  from  Agra  and  other  places. 
The  road  from  Fatehpur-Sikri  to  Aj- 
mere was  so  much  used  by  Akbar  that 
he  caused  "Kos  Minars"  (masonry 
columns  answering  to  our  milestones) 
to  be  erected  along  the  route.  Several 
of  these  miliars  can  still  be  seen  from 
the  railway. 

Thomas  Coryat,  in  the  17th  century, 
walked  from  Jerusalem  to  Ajmere,  and 
spent  £2 :  10s.  on  the  journey.  Sir 
Thomas  Roe,  the  ambassador  of  James 
I.,  gives  an  account  of  the  city  in 
1615-16.  In  about  1720  Ajit  Sing 
Rathore  seized  the  city,  which  was 
recovered  by  Muhammad  Shah,  and 
made  over  by  him  to  Abhay  Sing.  His 
son  Ram  Sing  called  in  the  Marathas, 
under  Jay  Apa  Sindia,  who,  however, 
was  murdered,  and  in  1756  Ajmere  was 
made  over  to  Bijai  Sing,  cousin  of 
Ram  Sing.  In  1787  the  Rathores 
recovered  Ajmere,  but  after  their  defeat 
at  Patau  had  to  surrender  it  again  to 
Sindia.  On  the  25th  of  June  1818 
Daulat  Rao  Sindia  made  it  over  by 
treaty  to  the  English. 

The  Residency  is  on  the  brink  of 
the  beautiful  artificial  lake  called  the 
Ana  Saugar,  constructed  by  Raja 
Ana  in  the  middle  of  the  11th  cent. 
It  forms  the  source  of  the  river  Laoni, 
which  finally  unites  with  the  Delta  of 
the  Indus.  The  Emperor  ShahJehan 
erected  a  noble  range  of  marble  pavil- 
ions on  the  embankment.  They  were 
long  the  only  public  offices  in  Ajmere, 
but  the  chief  one  is  now  used  as  the 
official  residence  of  the  Commissioner. 
The  central  and  most  beautiful  pavil- 
ion, in  which  the  emperor  often  re- 
posed, has  been  restored  at  great  cost. 
The  walk  along  the  bund  ox  embank- 


ment (which  is  public)  is  very  ds- 
lightful,  —  quite  the  pleasantest  sight 
in  Ajmere.  If  the  nying  foxes  still 
hang  in  the  trees,  they  are  worth  ob- 
serving. They  are  sure  not  to  be 
far  off  even  if  tiiey  have  changed  thai 
quarters,  as  they  love  the  vicinity  of 
water.  To  the  N.  is  the  broad  ezpanae 
of  the  lake,  and  to  the  S.  under  the  ^ 
bund  is  the  Public  Garden,  The  dty  is  ' 
supplied  with  water  from  the  new  , 
lake,  the  Foy  Saugar,  formed  by  an 
embankment  thrown  across  the  valley 
6  m.  higher  up.  The  water  of  the  spring 
known  as  the  Digi,  on  the  Nusseerabad 
side  of  Ajmere,  is  said  to  possess  a  high 
specific  gravity,  owing  to  the  stratum 
of  lead  through  which  it  passes. 

Akbar's  Palace  is  outside  the  city 
proper,  to  the  E.,  not  far  from  the 
railway  station.  The  entrance  gate  is 
very  fine.  It  was  an  arsenal,  and  is 
now  used  as  a  tehsil. 

The  mosque  called  the  Arhai-din-ka- 
jhompra,  or  ''The  Hut  of  two  and  a 
half  Days,"  is  just  outside  the  city  gate 
beyond  the  Dargah.  It  was  built  by 
Altamsh  or  Eutbu-din  about  1200 
from  the  materials  of  a  Jain  temple. 
The  name  is  derived  from  a  tradition 
that  it  was  built  supematuraUy  in  two 
and  a  half  days.  Modern  archaeologists 
assert  that  it  was  probably  erected  by 
the  same  architect  who  built  the  Kutb 
mosque  near  Delhi  It  is  uncertain 
whether  any  of  the  undoubtedly  Hindu 
pillars  of  which  the  mosque  is  built  are 
now  in  situ.  Their  ornamentation  is 
very  complete,  no  two  being  alike.  The 
mosque  proper,  supported  by  4  rows  of 
18  of  these  columns,  derives  its  beauty 
from  the  materials  of  which  it  is  con- 
structed. The  screen  in  front  of  it  is  a 
work  well  deserving  attention :  it  is 
the  glory  of  the  mosque,  and  consists 
of  seven  arches  very  similar  to  those 
with  which  Altamsh  adorned  the  court- 
yard of  the  Kutb.  In  the  centre  the 
screen  rises  to  a  height  of  56  ft 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  taste  with 
which  the  Kufic  and  Tughra  inscrip- 
tions are  interwoven  with  the  more 
purely  architectural  decorations  and 
the  constructive  lines  of  the  design. 

The  bridle-path  to  Taragarh  passes 
this  mosque,  and  by  a  steep  ascent 


BOUTE  6.      AJMBRE 


125 


reaches  the  summit  in  2  m.  The  tra- 
veller can  ride  or  be  carried  in  a  chair, 
or  jhdTnpan,  The  trip  will  occupy 
three  hours.  The  view  from  the  top  is 
the  principal  reward  for  the  trouble. 

One  of  the  principal  points  of  inter- 
est in  Aj  mere  is  the  Dargah.  It  is  ven- 
erated alike  by  Mohammedans  and 
Hindus,  and  derives  its  extreme  sanctity 
from  being  the  burial-place  of  Khwajah 
Muin-ud-din  Ohishti,  who  was  called 
Aftab-i-MuIk-i-Hind.  He  died  in  633 
A.H.  =  1235  A.D.     He  was  the  son  of 


the  shoes  on  entering  the  Dargah. 
Passing  through  a  lofty  gateway,  a  court- 
yard is  entered  in  which  are  two  very 
large  iron  caldrons,  one  twice  the  size 
of  the  other.  These  are  known  as  the 
great  and  the  little  deg.  A  rich  pilgrim 
may  offer,  at  the  annual  fair  and  pilgrim- 
age, to  give  a  deg  feast.  The  smallest 
sum  with  which  to  buy  rice,  butter, 
sugar,  almonds,  raisins,  and  spice  to 
fill  the  large  deg  is  1000  rs.,  and  be- 
sides this  he  has  to  pay  about  200  rs. 
as  presents  and  offerings  at  the  shrine. 


The  Arhai-din-ka-jhompra  Mosque  at  Ajmere. 


Khwajah  *Usman,  and  was  called  Chisti 
from  a  quarter  in  the  city  of  Sanjar 
in  Persia.  He  had  gone  into  a  chapel 
to  pray,  and  his  relative,  the  Ohishti 
from  latehpur-Sikri,  coming  to  see  him 
on  the  sixth  da^  foxmd  him  dead.  Of 
this  family  of  samts  and  courtiers,  Farid- 
Q-din  is  buried  at  Pak-patan,  in  the 
Paujab;  Nizam-uddin,  Kutb-ud-din, 
andNasir-ud-dinatornear Delhi;  Shaik 
Salim  at  Fatehpur-Sikri  near  Agra ; 
and  Bandah  Nawaz  at  'Ealbargah  in 
the  Beccan* 
Woollen  socks  have  to  be  put  over 


After  this  gigantic  rice  pudding  has 
been  cooked  by  means  of  a  furnace 
beneath,  it  is  scrambled  for,  boiling 
hot.  Eight  earthen  pots  of  the  mix- 
ture are  first  set  apart  for  the  foreign 
pilgrims,  and  it  is  the  hereditary  privi- 
lege of  the  people  of  Indrakot,.  and  of 
the  menials  of  the  Dargah,  to  empty  the 
caldron  of  the  remainder  of  its  contents. 
All  the  men  who  take  part  in  this 
hereditary  privilege  are  swaddled  up  to 
the  eyes  in  cloths,  to  avoid  the  effect 
of  the  scalding  fluid .  When  the  caldron 
is    nearly  empty,  all  the  Indrakotis 


126 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DBLHI 


India 


tumble  in  together  and  scrape  it  dean. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  this  custom  is 
very  ancient,  though  no  account  of  its 
origin  can  be  given.  It  is  generally 
counted  among  the  miracles  of  the 
saints  that  no  lives  have  ever  been  lost 
on  these  occasions,  though  burns  are 
frequent  The  cooked  nee  is  bought 
by  all  classes,  and  most  castes  will  eat 
it.  The  number  of  pilgrims  at  this 
festival  is  estimated  at  20,000. 

The  Tomb  of  the  saint  is  a  square 
building  of  white  marble  surmounted 
by  a  dome.  It  has  two  entrances,  one 
of  which  is  spanned  by  a  silver  arch. 
S.  of  it  in  a  small  enclosure  with  well- 
cut  marble  lattices  is  the  Mazar  or 
** grave"  of  Hafiz  Jamal,  daughter  of 
the  saint,  and  W.  of  it,  close  by  her 
tomb  is  that  of  Chimmi  Be^am,  daughter 
of  Shah  Jehan.  Christians  may  not 
approach  within  20  yds.  of  these  holy 
places.  There  are  some  very  fine  trees 
in  the  enclosure. 

W.  of  the  sanctuary  is  a  long,  narrow, 
and  very  handsome  mosque  of  white 
marble,  buiU  by  Shah  Jehan,  It  has 
11  arches,  and  is  about  100  ft  long ; 
a  Persian  inscription  runs  the  whole 
length  of  the  roof  under  the  eaves. 
There  is  another  masque  within  the 
enclosure — to  the  rt.  on  entering — 
built  by  Ahbar.  Most  of  the  outer 
doors  are  completely  covered  with 
horse-shoes,  and  many  slips  of  writing 
are  plastered  on  the  walls. 

Before  leaving  the  visitor  will  prob- 
ably have  a  necklace  of  flowers  put 
round  him,  which  it  will  be  polite  not 
to  take  off  until  he  has  gone  some 
distance.  A  small  present,  say  1  r., 
should  be  given  in  return. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Dargah  enclosure  is 
the  Jhalra,  a  deep  tank  where  ablutions 
are  made,  partly  cut  out  of  the  rock  and 
lined  by  steep  flights  of  irregular  stex)s. 

Ajmere  is  the  headquarters  of  about 
1800  miles  of  metre-gauge  rly.  worked 
by  the  B.B.  and  C.I.  Railway  Co. 
Near  the  rly.  sta.  are  very  extensive 
workshops  employing  many  thousand 
Hindu  and  Mohammedan  workmen, 
who  accomplish  their  tasks  with  a 
wonderfiiUy  small  amount  of  European 
supervision.  Across  the  railway  line 
£rom  the  city  is  an  extensive  civil 


station,  inhabited  almost  exclusively 
by  railway  officials  ;  and  beyond  their 
houses  S.  is  the  Mayo  College  for  the 
education  of  young  Rajput  princes 
opened  by  Lord  Dufferin  in  1875.  It 
contains  about  80  boys  between  the 
ages  of  8  and  18  years.  A  visitor, 
even  if  pressed  for  time,  ought  to  drive 
through  the  grounds.  The  central 
building  is  a  handsome  white  marble 
pile,  slightly  marred  by  some  incon- 
gruous details.  The  subsidiary  build- 
ings have  been  erected  by  native 
builders  for  the  chiefs  as  lodging- 
houses  for  their  pupils  and  servants. 
Perhaps  nowhere  else  in  India  is  so 
much  good  modem  native  architecture 
to  be  seen. 

The  Cantonment  of  Nnsseerabad  is 
14  m.  from  Aimere  (see  p.  86). 

[The  traveller  who  has  leisure  should 
visit  the  sacred  Lake  of  Pushkax,  about 
7  m.     Permanent  pop.  4000. 

The  road  skirts  the  W.  shore  of  the 
Ana  Saugar.  At  3  m.  from  Ajmere  is 
the  village  of  Kausar,  in  a  gap  in  the 
hills  which  divide  the  Ana  Saugar  from 
the  Pushkar  Lake.  This  striking  pass 
through  the  hills  is  1  m.  lon^.  Push- 
kar is  the  most  sacred  lake  in  India, 
in  a  narrow  valley  overshadowed  by 
fine  rocky  peaks,  and  is  said  to  be  of 
miraculous  origin,  marking  the  spot 
hallowed  by  the  great  sacrifice  of 
Brahma.  Early  in  the  Middle  Ages 
it  became  one  of  the  most  frequented 
objects  of  pilgrimage,  and  is  stUl  visited 
during  the  great  Mela  (fair)  of  Oct.  and 
Nov.  by  about  100,000  pilgrims.  On 
this  occasion  is  also  held  a  great  mart 
for  horses,  camels,  and  buUocks. 

Although  the  ancient  temples  were 
destroyed  by  Aurangzib,  the  5  modem 
ones  with  their  ghats  on  the  margin  of 
the  lake  are  highly  picturesque.  That 
to  Brahma  is  usually  said  to  he  the  only 
one  in  India;  but  there  are  smaller 
shrines  to  Brahmaatseveral  old  temples. 
Over  the  gateway  is  the  figure  of  the 
hanSf  or  *  *  goose, "  of  Brahma.  The  D.  B. 
is  in  a  native  house  on  the  lake,  ^m 
which  there  is  a  good  view.] 

658  m.  Naraina  stat.  The  village 
with  a  large  tank  is  seen  from  the  rly. 
It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Dadu- 
panthi  sect  of  reformers.    Their  reli- 


ROUTE  6.      JETPORB 


127 


gioD,  ethics,  and  teachiBg  are  embodied 
in  a  mass  of  poetry  written  by  Dadu 
Panth  and  his  disciples.  A  division  of 
the  sect  is  composed  of  military  monks 
who  serve  in  the  armies  of  the  Jeypore 
and  neighbouring  states. 

3^  699  m.  JETPORE  (or  Jaipur)  sta. ,  :^ 
D.B.  Pop.  143,000.  Amber  is  the 
ancient  capital,  Jeypore  the  modem  ;  it 
is  the  residence  of  tne  Maharaja,  whose 
state  covers  nearly  15,000  sq.  m. ,  with  a 
pop.  of  2, 500, 000,  and  the  headquarters 
of  the  Resident.  It  derives  its  name 
from  the  famous  Maharaja  Siwai  Jey 
(or  Jaya)  Sing.  II.,  who  founded  it  in 
1728.  The  town  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  except  the  S.  by  rugged  hills, 
crowned  with  forts.  That  at  the  end 
of  the  ridge  overhanging  the  city  on  the 
N. W.  is  the  Nahargarh,  or  "tiger  fort. " 
The  face  of  the  ridge  is  scarped  and 
inaccessible  on  the  S.  or  city  side,  while 
on  the  N.  it  slopes  towards  Amb^r.  A 
masonry,  crenellated  waU,  with  seven 
gateways,  encloses  the  whole  city. 

Jeypore  is  the  pleasant  healthy 
capital  of  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
independent  states  of  Rajputana,  and  is 
a  very  busy  and  important  commercial 
town,  with  large  banks  and  other  trad- 
ing establishments.  It  is  a  centre  of 
native  manufactures,  especially  that  of 
many  kinds  of  jewellery  and  of  coloured 
printed  cloths  and  muslins.  The 
enamel-work  done  here  is  the  best  in 
India,  and  the  cutting  and  setting  of 
garnets  and  other  stones  found  in  the 
state  is  a  large  branch  of  industry. 
The  crowded  streets  and  bazaars  are 
most  lively  and  picturesque.  Tlie  city 
is  remarkable  for  the  width  and  regu- 
larity of  its  streets.  It  is  laid  out  in 
rectangular  blocks,  and  is  divided  by 
cross  streets  into  six  equal  portions. 
The  main  streets  are  111  ft.  wide,  and 
are  paved,  and  the  city  is  lighted  bygas.^ 

Passes  to  view  the  Maharaja's  Palace 
and  Stables  and  the  old  Palace  of 
Amber   may  be   obtained    from    the 


The  Uaharaja's  Palace,  with  its 
beautifol  gardens  and  pleasure  pounds 
\  m.  long,  adorned  witn  fountains,  fine 
trees^  and  flowering  shrubs,  occupies 
the  centre  of  the  city  and  covers  \  of 
1  Sae  LeUers  cfMargm,  by  Budyard  Kipling. 


its  area.  The  whole  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  embattled  wall,  built  by  Jey 
Sing,  but  many  of  the  buildings  in- 
cluded in  it  are  of  a  later  date.  The 
Chandra  Mahal,  which  forms  the  centre 
of  the  great  palace,  is  a  loft^  and  strik- 
ing building,  seven  stories  high,  looking 
over  the  gardens. 

'  On  the  ground-floor  is  the  Diwan- 
i-Ehas,  or  private  hall  of  audience, 
built  partly  of  white  marble,  and 
remarkable  even  in  India  for  its 
noble  simplicity.  On  the  top  story 
there  is  a  magnificent  view  over  the 
centre  city.  To  the  1.  are  the  gaudily- 
furnished  modem  buildings  containing 
the  apartments  of  the  Maharaja  and  his 
courtiers,  and  the  zenana. 

East  of  the  Chandra  Mahal  is  the 
famous  Jantra  or  Observatory,  the 
largest  of  the  five  built  by  the  celebrated 
royal  astronomer  Jey  Sin^  (see  Benares, 
Muttra,  Delhi,  and  Ujjam).  It  is  not 
under  cover,  but  is  an  oj^en  courtyard 
fuU  of  curious  and  fantastic  instruments 
invented  and  designed  by  him.  They 
have  been  allowed  to  go  much  out  ot 
repair,  and  many  of  them  are  now  quite 
useless,  it  being  impossible  even  to 
guess  what  purpose  they  served  in  the 
wonderfully  accurate  calculations  and 
observations  of  their  inventor;  but 
dials,  gnomons,  quadrants,  etc.,  still 
remain  of  great  interest  to  astronomers. 

Adjoining  the  Observatory  are  the 
royal  Stables,  built  round  large  court- 
yards ;  and  beyond  them  is  the  Hawa 
Mahal,  or  Hall  of  the  Winds*  one  of 
Jey  Sing's  chefs  d^cRUvre,  a  fantastic 
and  elaborate  building,  decorated  with 
stucco,  and  overlooking  one  of  the  chief 
streets  of  the  town. 

In  the  central  court  of  the  palace  are 
the  Raj  Printing  OiEce,  the  Clock 
Tower,  and  the  Armoury.  To  the  E. 
of  the  Diwan-i-'Am  is  the  Parade 
Ground,  girt  with  open  colonnades, 
behind  wnich  are  the  Law  Courts. 
Horses  can  mount  to  the  top  of  the 
palace  by  inclined  planed. 

Near  the  chief  entrance  rises  the 
Ishwari  Minar  Swarga  Sul,  the  "  Min- 
aret piercing  heaven,**  built  by  Rajah 
Ishwari  Sing  to  overlook  the  city. 

Public  Garden,  outside  the  city  wall, 
is  one  of  the  finest  gardens  in  India, 


128 


B0X7TB  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


Indk 


70  acres  in  extent,  and  was  laid  out 
by  Dr.  de  Fabeck  at  a  cost  of  about 
400,000  rs.  Attached  to  it  are  a  fine 
menagerie  and  aviary.  These  gardens 
cost  tne  Maharaja  30,000  rs.  a  year  to 
keep  up.  There  is  a  fine  sUUtie  oj 
Lord  Mayo. 

In  the  centre  of  the  garden  is  the 
Albert  Hall,  a  sumptuous  modem  build- 
ing, of  which  the  Prince  of  Wales  laid 
the  first  stone  in  1876.  It  contains  a 
large  Darbar  Hall  and  a  beautiful 
museum, — an  Oriental  South  Kensing- 
ton, suitably  housed.  The  collections 
of  modem  works  of  art  and  industry, 
and  also  of  antiquities,  from  every  part 
of  India,  are  very  complete  and  highly 
interesting.  There  is  a  fine  view  n*om 
the  top. 

The  Mayo  HoepitaL-— Beyond  the 
gardens  is  the  hospital,  of  rough  white 
stone,  with  a  clock  tower.  It  can 
house  150  patients. 

The  Ghmeh  is  on  the  way  to  the 
Railway  Station,  a  little  to  the  W.  of 
the  roaa. 

At  the  School  of  Art,  a  handsome 
modem  building,  are  first-rate  technical 
and  industrial  classes  for  teaching  and' 
reviving  various  branches  of  native 
artistic  industry,  sueh  as  metal  and 
enamel- work,  embroidery,  weaving,  etc. 

The  Maharaja's  Colloge.— In  Jey- 
pore  public  instraction  has  made  greater 
progress  than  in  the  other  states  of 
Kajputana.  The  College,  opened  in 
1844  with  about  40  pupils,  had  in 
1889  and  1890  a  daily  class  attendance 
of  1000,  and  compares  favourably  with 
similar  institutions  of  the  kind  in 
British  India ;  it  is  affiliated  to  the 
Calcutta  University. 

The  chattris,  or  cenotaphsj  of  the  Ma- 
harajas at  Grethur  are  just  outside  the 
N.E.  city  wall.  They  are  in  well- 
planted  gardens,  the  trees  of  which 
are  full  of  solemn-looking,  gray-headed 
monkeys.  The  first  seen  on  entering 
is  Jey  Sing's  Chattri,  the  finest  of  all. 
It  is  a  dome  of  the  purest  white  marble, 
supported  on  20  beautifully  carved 
pillars  rising  from  a  substantial  square 
platform,  and  profuselv  ornamented 
with  scenes  from  Hindu  mythology. 
S.E.  of  Jey  Sin^s  Chattri  is  that  of 
his  son  Madhu  Sing,  a  dome  rising  fhsm 


the  octagon  on  arches  reversed.  The 
only  ornaments  are  carved  peacocb. 
W.  of  this  chattri  is  that  of  Pratap 
Sing,  his  son,  completed  by  the  late 
raler  Bam  Sing.  It  is  of  white  marble 
brought  from  Alwar. 

The  water  which  supplies  Jeypow  is 
drawn  from  a  stream  on  the  W .  of  the 
city,  running  into  the  Chambal.  The 
pumping-station  and  high-level  reser- 
voirs are  nearly  opposite  the  Chandpol 
Gate. 

[An  expedition  for  the  sake  of  the 
mew  may  be  made  by  elephant  or  on 
foot  to  the  Shrine  of  the  Sun  God  at 
QaUa,  an  uninteresting  building  350  ft. 
above  the  plain,  and  built  on  a  jutting 
rocky  platform,  on  the  summit  of  a 
range  of  hills,  about  1}  m.  to  the  £.  of 
Jeypore,  of  which  by  far  the  finest  view 
is  obtained  from  this  point.  The  way 
the  sandy  desert  is  encroaching  on  the 
town  should  be  noticed.  It  has  caused 
one  large  suburb  to  be  deserted,  and  the 
houses  and  gardens  are  going  to  ruin. 
The  sand  has  even  drifted  up  the  ravines 
of  the  hUls.  This  evil  ou^ht  to  be 
arrested  at  any  cost  by  planting.] 

[The  excursion  to  Amb^r  (5  m.),  the 
capital  of  Jeypore  till  1728,  now  rained 
and  deserted,  is  most  interesting,  and 
will  occupy  a  whole  day.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  obtain  permission  to  visit  Amb^r 
from  the  Resident  of  Jeypore,  and  that 
official,  as  a  rule,  kindly  asks  the  State 
to  send  an  elephant  to  meet  the  traveUer 
at  Chandrabagh,  where  the  hill  becomes 
too  steep  for  a  carriage. 

On  the  left  of  the  road  a  line  of 
fortified  hills  are  passed ;  these  culmin- 
ate in  the  great  Fort  400  feet  above  the 
old  palace,  connected  with  it  and  built 
for  its  defence.  The  picturesque  atua- 
tion  of  Amber  at  the  mouth  of  a  rocky 
mountain  gorge,  in  which  nestles  a 
lovely  lake,  has  attracted  the  admira- 
tion of  all  travellers,  including  Jacque- 
mont  and  Heber.  The  name  is  first 
mentioned  by  Ptolemy.  It  was  founded 
by  the  Minas,  and  still  flourishing  in 
967.     In  1087  it  was  taken  by  the 


Rajput,  who  held  it  till  it  was  deserted. 

The  old  Palace,  begun  by  Man  Sing, 

1600,  ranks  architecturally  second  only 


to  Gwalior,  though  instead  of  standing 
on  a  rocky  pedestal  it  lies  low  on  the 


ROUTB  6.       SANGANER 


129 


slope  of  the  hill,  picturesquely  rooted 
ou  its  rocky  base  and  reflected  iu  the 
lake  below.  The  interior  arrangements 
are  excellent.  The  suites  of  rooms  form 
vistas  opening  upon  striking  views.  It 
is  a  grand  pile,  and  though  it  lacks  the 
fresh  and  vigorous  stamp  of  Hindu 
originality  which  characterises  earlier 
buudinss,  the  ornamentation  and  tech- 
nical details  are  free  from  feeble- 
ness. 

Entered  by  a  fine  staircase .  from  a 
great  courtyard  is  the  Diwan-i-'Am, 
a  noble  specimen  of  Rajput  art,  with 
double  row  of  columns  supporting  a 
massive  entablature,  above  which  are 
latticed  galleries.  Its  magnificence 
attracted  the  envy  of  Jehangir,  and 
Mirza  Raja,  to  save  his  great  work 
from  destruction,  covered  it  with 
stucco. 

To  the  right  of  the  Diwan-i-'Am  steps 
is  a  small  temple  where  a  goat,  offered 
each  morning  to  Kali,  preserves  the 
tradition  of  a  daily  human  sacrifice  on 
the  same  spot  in  pre-historic  times. 

On  a  higher  terrace  are  the  Raja's 
own  apartments,  entered  by  a  splendid 
gateway  covered  with  mosaics  and 
sculptures,  erected  by  Jey  Sing,  over 
which  is  the  Suhag  Mandir,  a  small 

Savilion  with  beautiful  latticed  win- 
0W8.  Through  this  are  further  mar- 
vels,— a  green  and  cool  garden  with 
fountains,  surrounded  by  palaces, 
biilliant  with  mosaics  and  marbles. 
That  on  the  1.  is  the  Jey  MandlTy  or 
HaU  of  Victory,  adorned  by  panels  of 
alabaster,  some  of  which  are  inlaid,  and 
others  are  adorned  with  flowers  in  alto- 
reUevo,  "the  roof  glittering  with  the 
mirrored  and  spangled  work  for  which 
Jeypore  is  renowned."  Near  the  Jey 
Mandir  a  narrow  passage  leads  down  to 
the  bathing-rooms,  all  of  pale  creamy 
marble.  Above  is  the  Jos  Maiidirj 
"which  literBtlly  glows  with  bright  and 
tender  colours  and  exquisite  inlaid  work, 
and  looks  through  arches  of  carved  ala- 
baster and  clusters  of  slender  columns 
upon  the  sleeping  lake  and  the  silent 
mountains." 

At  theN.E.  angle  is  a  balcony,  whence 

there  is  a  fine  view  over  the  town  of 

Amber  and  the  plain  beyond  to  the 

hill  which  overlooks  Ramgarh.     Some 

[India] 


chattris  outside  the  wall  are  those  of 
chieftains  who  died  before  Jey  Sing  II. 
In  the  palace  to  the  right  is  a  chamber 
on  the  rt  wall  of  which  are  views  of 
Ujjain,  and  on  the  1.  views  of  Benares 
and  Muttra.  That  opposite  the  Jey 
Mandir  is  called  the  SukhNavjos,  '  *  Hall 
of  Pleasure. "  In  t;he  centre  of  the  narrow 
dark  room  is  an  opening  for  a  stream  to 
flow  down  into  the  groove  or  channel 
which  runs  through  the  hall.  The  doors 
are  of  sandal-wood  inlaid  with  ivory. 

A  steep  path  leads  down  to  the 
Ehiri  Gate,  beyond  which,  as  it  leads 
to  one  of  the  forts,  Kantalgarh,  no  one 
is  allowed  to  pass  without  an  order. 
At  the  bottom  of  this  path  there  is  a 
temple  to  Thakurji,  or  Vishnu.  It  is 
wiiite  and  beautifully  carved,  and  just 
outside  the  door  is  a  lovely  square 
pavilion  exquisitely  carved  with  figures 
representing  Krishna  sporting  with 
the  Gopis. 

Ambfer  formerly  contained  many  fine 
temples,  but  most  are  now  in  ruins.] 

[Sanganer  is  about  7  m.  to  the 
S.  of  Jeypore,  a  nice  drive  past  the 
Residency  and  the  Moti  Dongari,  and 
garden  where  the  Indian  princes  who 
are  visitors  to  the  Maharaja  some- 
times encamp. 

A  gateway  leads  into  this  town 
through  two  ruined  Tirpoliyas,  or  triple 
gateways  of  three  stories,  about  66  ft. 
high.  The  second  story  has  an  open 
stone  verandah,  supported  by  four 
pillars  on  either  side  of  the  archway. 
Ascending  the  street  is  a  small  temple 
on  the  rt.  sacred  to  Kalyanji  or  Krishna, 
the  door  of  which  is  handsomely 
carved.  Opposite  is  a  temple  to  Sita- 
ram,  with  a  pillar,  6  ft.  high,  of  white 
Makrana  marble  called  a  Kirthi  Kambh. 
On  the  four  sides  are  Brahma  with  foui* 
faces,  Vishnu,  cross-legged,  holding  the 
lotus,  Shiva  holding  a  cobra  in  his  rt. 
hand  and  a  trident  in  his  1. ,  with  Par- 
bati  beside  him  and  Ganesh. 

Higher  up,  on  the  1.,  are  the  ruins 
of  the  Old  Palace,  which  must  once 
have  been  a  vast  building.  N.  by  E. 
from  this  is  the  Sa/nganer  Temple  with 
three  courts.  Visitors  are  not  allowed 
to  enter  the  third.  There  are  several 
other  old  shrines  in  the  place.] 


130 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


Indilt 


766  m.  Bandikui  jun.  sta.  (R).  Here  I 
are  railway  workshops,  church  institute, 
and  a  considerable  station  for  rail- 
way employes.  The  line  for  Bhurtpur, 
Muttray  and  Agra  branches  off  E.  (see 
p.  167). 

792  m.  ALWAB  (Ulwar)  sta. ,  aOt  D.  B., 
is  the  capital  of  the  native  state  of  that 
name,  and  is  under  the  political  super- 
intendence of  the  British  Government. 
It  has  an  area  of  3024  sq.  m.,  a  pop. 
of  683,000,  and  a  revenue  of  about 
£235,000.  The  dress  of  the  people  is 
highly  picturesque.  The  men  often 
carry  long  matcnlocks  or  staves,  and 
the  saris  of  the  women  are  embroidered 
and  of  bright  colours.  The  Maharaja 
maintains  an  army  of  about  8000  men, 
under  the  command  of  an  English 
officer,  and  is  himself  very  English  in 
his  tastes. 

The  City  (90,880  inhab.)  is  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Chief  and  of  a  Political 
Agent.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on 
rising  ground,  dominated  by  the  Fort, 
which  crowns  a  conical  rock  1200  ft. 
high,  and  is  backed  by  a  range  of  rugged 
mountains.  A  shady  road  between  fields 
and  native  houses,  and  passing  1.  the 
small  R.  Catholic  Church,  and  then  the 
prett;^  Scottish  Mission  Church,  leads  in 
1  m.  from  the  rly.  sta.  to  the  chief  of  five 
vaulted  gateways  which  pierce  the  city 
wall.  Here  the  traveller  is  confronted 
by  a  formidable-looking  brass  gun,  and 
passing  on  finds  himself  in  the  pictur- 
esque town :  an  irregular  whitewashed 
street  stretches  before  him,  with  a  view 
of  the  high  Fort  at  the  end.  About 
half-way  along  it,  at  the  junction  of  four 
ways,  the  streets  are  spanned  by  a  four- 
sided  vaulted  archway  called  the  Tir- 
poliya,  supporting  the  tomb  of  Tarang 
Sultan,  d.  1350,  brother  of  Feroz  Shah. 

At  the  end  of  the  street  is  a  temple 
of  Jaganath,  and  leaving  it  (1.)  and 
passing  round  and  up  a  slight  incline 
the  Boyal  Palace  is  reached.  It  is  a 
group  of  buildings  partly  detached  and 
built  in  a  variety  of  styles,  separated 
from  the  base  of  the  mountains  by  a 
little  tank  (see  below). 

In  the  centre  of  the  wall  of  the  large 
court  of  the  palace  is  an  elegant  build- 
ing called  an  Aftabi,  and  two  chattris 


or  cenotaphs  of  marble,  adorned  with 
carved  lattice-work.  The  darbar-room 
is  70  ft.  long,  with  marble  pillars. 
The  Shish  Mahal  is  handsome,  and  over- 
looks  the  tank.  Besides  other  state 
rooms,  the  palace  contains  a  valuable 
Library,  kept  in  excellent  order,  an| 
rich  in  Oriental  manuscripts.  The  obi 
ornament  of  the  collection  is  amatchle 
*•  Gulistan,"  which  cost  about  £10,00( 
*to  produce  ;  it  is  beautifully  illustrate 
with  miniature  paintings,  the  joj-^" 
work  of  three  men.  The  MS.  ¥ 
written  by  a  German,  •  the  miniature 
were  painted  by  a  native  of  Delhi,  a 
the  scrolls  are  by  a  Panjabi  ;  it  \« 
finished  in'  1848  by  order  of  Mahai 
Raja  Bani  Sing.  Another  beautifl 
book  is  the  "Dah  Pand,"  written  b 
Rahim  'ullah,  in  1864. 

The  Toshah  Khana,  or  Jewel 
is  rich  in  magnificent  jewels,  she^ 
only  when   both  the   Prime   Ministt 
and  the  Political  Agent  are 
There  is  an  emerald  cup  of  large  si 
and  also  one  said  to  be  a  ruby,  soi 
curious   cameos,    and    massive   silvB 
trappings,  for  horses  and  elephants. 

The  Armoury  contains  a  splendid 
collection  of  sabres  and  other  weapons 
finely  wrought  and  finished  and  studded 
with  jewels  ;  also  50  handsome  swords 
with  hilts  of  gold.  One  or  two  are  from 
Persia,  but  most  of  them  were  made  at 
Alwar,  and  the  imitation  of  the  Ispahan 
steel  is  excellent.  The  arms  of  Bani 
Sing  could  only  be  worn  by  a  man  of 
great  stature.  His  coat  of  mail  weighs 
16^  lb.,  and  the  end  of  his  spear  5  lb., 
and  his  sword  weighs  6  lb.  They  are 
studded  with  large  diamonds.  There 
are  a  helmet  and  cuirass,  Persian,  of  the 
16th  century,  and  large  enough  for  a 
man  7  ft.  high.  Both  are  perforated 
with  small  bullets.  The  Maharaja 
does  not  occupy  this  palace,  but  lives 
in  another  between  2  and  3  m.  to 
the  S.  of  Alwar,  surrounded  by  fine 
gardens. 

The  Kaja's  Stables  are  worth  a  visit 
There  are  500  horses,  some  of  them 
very  fine.  Morning  and  evening  the 
young  animals  are  summoned  from  the 
jungle,  by  bugle,  to  feed ;  their  approach, 

1  It  is  well  to  write  beforehand  to  the  Political 
agent  to  ask  permission  to  see  the  Jewel  Bovm^ 


ROUTE  6.       RBWARI 


131 


leaping  over  fences  and  walls,  is  a  fine 
sight. 

The  Tank  with  the  buildings  that 
surround  it,  and  the  Fort  in  the  back- 
ground, forms  one  of  the  most  pictur- 
esque spots  in  India.  To  the  E.  are 
the  palace  and  zenana ;  on  the  W.  are  a 
number  of  temples  to  Vishnu ;  on  the 
N.  are  smaller  temples  and  shrines, 
shrouded  by  trees ;  and  raised  upon  the 
centre  of  a  platform  on  the  S.  is  the 
cenotaph  or  mausoleum  of  Bakhtawar 
Sing,  a  pavilion  with  white  marble 
pillars.  In  the  centre  of  the  pavetnent 
are  four  small  feet  cut  out  in  the  marble, 
and  at  one  comer  a  gun,  at  the  next  a 
dagger,  and  at  the  third  a  sword  and 
sh^d.  Visitors  are  required  to  take 
off  their  shoes.  From  this  spot  the 
view  is  very  striking ;  on  the  one  side 
the  tank  and  the  Fort  towering  above 
it,  and  on  the  other  the  town  and  the 
wooded  plain. 

Myriads  of  rock -pigeons  fl^  about 
these  sacred  precincts,  making  the 
ground  blue  when  they  alight,  and 
numbers  of  stately  peacocks  strut  un- 
molested about  the  marble  pavements. 

In  the  city  the  house  may  be  visited 
in  which  the  Elephant  Carriage  is  kept. 
It  was  built  by  Bani  Sing,  and  is  used 
by  the  Raja  at  the  Feast  of  the  Dasahra. 
It  is  a  car  two  stories  high,  and  will 
carry  60  persons.  It  is  usually  drawn 
by  four  elephants. 

The  Company  Bagh  (named  after 
the  E.  I.  C.)  is  a  neat  garden  between 
the  rly.  sta.  and  the  city. 

There  is  nothing  to  see  in  the  Fort, 
but  if  the  visitor  desires  to  ascend  for 
the  purpose  of  enjoying  the  magnificent 
view  over  the  valley  and  adjoining 
hills,  he  should  get  into  SLJhampan,  or 
chair,  and  be  carried  up.  This  ascent 
is  steep  and  is  paved  with  slippery  and 
rugged  stones.  At  about  150  ft.  up 
there  is  a  fine  Ficus  indica  and  .a  hut, 
and  here  the  steepest  part  of  the  ascent 
begins.  It  is  called  the  Hathi  Mora, 
"Elephant's  Turn,"  because  those 
animals  cannot  go  beyond  this  point. 
There  is  another  hut  farther  up  at  a 
» place  called  Ghazi  Mard.  It  takes 
about  38  minutes  to  walk  from  that 
place  to  the  gate  of  the  Fort     The 


scarp  of  the  rock  is  27  ft.  high.  In- 
side the  Fort  is  a  large  ruined  mansion 
of  Kaghunath,  formerly  governor  of  the 
Fort  On  the  left  hand  is  a  cannon  12 
ft.  long.  Thence  to  the  inner  Fort  is 
100  yds.  Here  there  is  a  commodious 
building,  with  rooms  for  about  20 
people  and  a  darbar-rooin. 

The  Tomb  of  Fath  Jang,  near  the 
station  on  the  Bhurtpur  road,  should 
not  be  passed  over.  Its  dome  is  a  con- 
spicuous object,  and  bears  date,  in 
Nagri,  1547,  but  the  outside  is  poor  in 
design  compared  with  the  interior, 
which  is  good.  The  building  possesses 
a  considerable  amount  of  fine  plaster- 
work  in  relief,  with  fiat  surface  patterns 
and  rectangular  mouldings  as  at  the 
Alhambra.  It  is  now  converted  into  a 
corn-store  for  the  Maharaja's  horses. 
Fath  Jang  was  a  minister  of  Shah  Jehan. 

1  m.  N.  of  the  city  is  the  Jail,  and 
2  m.  to  the  S.  is  the  Artillery  Ground 
and  Top  Khana,  *' artillery  arsenal." 
On  returning,  the  visitor  may  turn  down 
a  ravine,  where,  at  the  distance  of  1 
m. ,  is  the  chattri  of  Pratap  Sing,  and 
a  spring  of  water,  as  also  temples  to 
Shiva,  Sitaram,  and  Earanji,  and  a 
small  monument  to  the  Queen  of  Pratap 
Sing,  who  undei-went  sati. 

Alwar  and  the  neighbourhood  are 
supplied  with  water  from  the  aitificial 
Lake  of  Siliserh,  9  m.  S.W.  of  the  city, 
a  charming  spot  There  are  the  Maha- 
raja's palace  on  the  hill  and  the  un- 
finished water  palace  on  the  lake,  and 
abundance  of  fish. 

There  is  a  great  deal  of  game, 
including  tigers,  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Alwar. 

838  m.  Bewari  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
A  railway  line  from  here  proceeds 
N.W.  to  Sirsa  Ferozepur  and  Lahore, 
with  a  branch  to  Fazilki  on  the  Sutlej 
river. 

Rewari  was  founded  in  1000  a.d.  by 
Raja  Rawat.  There  are  the  ruins  of  a 
still  older  town  E.  of  the  modern  walls. 
The  Rajas  of  Rewari  were  partially 
independent,  even  under  the  Moguls. 
They  built  the  fort  of  Gokulgarh,  near 
the  town,  which  is  now  in  ruins,  but 
was  evidently  once  very  strong.    They 


132 


BOUTB  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


coined  their  own  money,  and  their 
currency  was  called  Gokul  Sikkah.  It 
is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  particu- 
larly in  iron  and  salt.  The  Town  Hall 
is  handsome,  as  are  the  Jain  Temples, 
close  to  the  town. 

The  rly,  passes  W.  of  the  Kutb  Minar 
and  of  the  tombs  and  ruins  S.  of  Delhi, 
a  line  of  hills  shutting  them  out  from 
view,  and  when  near  the  city  turns  E. 
(Here  the  Delhi,  Umballa,  and  Ealka 
Rly.  turns  N.)  The  line  enters  through 
the  W.  wall,  meeting  in  a  fine'  central 
station  the  E.  I.  Rly.  and  N.  W.  Rly., 
which  enter  the  city  over  the  Jumna 
river  bridge  from  the  E. 

890  m.  Delhi  jnnc.  sta.,30c  D.B. 
(198,600  inhab.) 


History. 

Little  is  definitely  known  of  the 
history  of  Delhi  prior  to  the  Moham- 
medan conquest  in  1193  a.d.  It  is 
.said  that  a  city  called  Indraprastha 
was  founded  by  the  early  Aryan  im- 
migrants, under  a  king  called  Yudhis- 
thira,  and  that  the  fort  of  Indrapat, 
also  called  Purana  Eilla,  or  "Old 
Fort,"  stands  on  the  site  of  this  city. 
The  extensive  ruins  lying  S.  of  modern 
Delhii  and  covering  an  area  of  about 
45  sq.  m.,  are  the  remains  of  seven 
forts  or  cities,  built  by  different  kings. 
The  oldest  are  the  Hindu  forts  of  Lal- 
kot,  built  by  Anang  Pal  in  1052  a.d.  ; 
and  Rai  Pithora,  built  by  the  king  of 
that  name,  about  1180  a.d.  The  ruins 
of  these  two  forts,  and  the  iron  pillar 
at  the  Kutb,  are  the  only  remains  of 
the  Hindu  period.  The  five  Moham- 
medan forts  or  cities  were  Siri,  built  by 
*Alau-din  in  1304  a.d.  ;  Tughlakabad, 
built  by  Tughlak  Shah,  in  1321  a.d.  ; 
the  citadel  of  Tughlakabad,  built  by 
the  same  king  at  the  same  date  ;  'Adi- 
labad,  built  oy  Muhammad  Tughlak 
in  1325  A.D. ;  and  Jahanpanah,  enclosed 
by  the  same  king.  The  name  Delhi 
first  appears  in  the  1st  century  B.C., 
but  the  area  thus  designated  cannot 
now  be  determined. 

The  modern  town  dates  from  the 
eommencement  of  the  fort  by  Shah 


Jehan  in  1638,  whence  it  v 
Shahjehanabad.      Delhi  has 
quently  attacked,  and  often  ca] 
It  was  sacked  by  Timur,  the  M( 
1398  ;  by  Nadir  Shah,  the  Pel 
1739  ;  and  by  Ahmad  Shah  Di 
Afghan,  in  1766.     On  the  10th 
1739,     the    small     Persian 
which    Nadir    Shah    had    intr< 
into  the  city  when  he  captured  i| 
almost  entirely  put  to  the  swoj 
the  people.   "  On  the  11th  he  ga^ 
troops,  who  had  been  summoned 
the  Encampment  outside  the  city, 
for  a  general  massacre.     From  e 
till  12  o'clock  Delhi  presented  a 
of  shocking  carnage,  the  horj 
which  were  increased   by  the 
that  now  spread  to  almost  every  qi 
of  the  capital.     The   Mogul  Em] 
Muhammad  Shah  then  interced< 
the  people,  and  Nadir  replied, 
Emperor  of  India  must  never 
vain,"  and  commanded  that  the 
sacre  should  cease.     A  vast  mull 
of  persons  had  perished,  however, 
when  Nadir  left  Delhi  he  carried 
him  immense  treasures,  estimated 
from  30  to  70  millions  sterling,  thr 
famous  Peacock  Throne,  and  the  Kob^ 
i-Nur,  diamond. 


In  1789  the  Maratha  chief,  Mahaduji 
Siudia  captured  Delhi,  and  the  Mara- 
thas  retained  it  till,  in  September  1803, 
General  Lake  dofeated  Louis  Bourquin, 
commanding  Sindia's  army,  and  gained 
possession  of  Delhi  and  of  the  family 
and  person  of  the  Mogul  Shah  'Alam. 
In  October  1804  Delhi  was  besieged  by 
the  Maratha,  Jaswant  Rao  Holkar,  bat 
successfully  defended  by  the  British 
under  General  Ochterlony.  From 
that  time  to  1857  the  old  capital  oi 
India  remained  in  the  possession  oi 
the  British,  although  the  descendants 
of  the  Mogul  were  allowed  some  show 
of  royalty,  and  the  name  of  king. 
Bahadur  Shah  succeeded  in  1837;  h« 
was  about  80  years  old  when  the 
Mutiny  broke  out.  With  his  death 
at  Rangoon  in  1862,  the  last  vestige 
of  the  Mogul  dynasty  disappeared.^ 

1  A  list  of  sovereigns  who  reigned  at  Delbi 
fh>m  1198,  will  be  found  on  p.  uviii. 


5 

s 

r 

!  3 


T 


J} 


BOUTB  6.      DXLHI 


133 


The  Siege  of  Delhi,  1857.^ 

On  the  10th  of  May  1857  there 
vere  in  the  large  cantonment  of 
Meenit,  about  40  miles  from  Delhi, 
a  British  force  consisting  of  a  battalion 
of  the  60th  Rifles,  a  regiment  of 
Dragoons  armed  with  carbines,  and 
a  large  force  of  Artillery,  though  only 
two  field-batteries  were  fully  equipped. 
The  Native  troops  were  one  regiment ' 
of  Cavalry — the  3d,  and  two  regiments 
of  Infantry  — the  11th  and  20th. 
Eighty-five  troopers  of  the  8d  Cavalry 
had  been  imprisoned  for  refusing  to 
nse  the  new  cartridges,  but  were 
released  on  the  day  above  mentioned 
by  their  comrades.  On  that  day, 
Sunday,  when  the  sun  went  down, 
the  Sepoys  broke  into  revolt.  The 
English  soldiers  in  the  cantonment 
vere  in  amply  sufficient  numbers  to 
have  crushed  the  mutiny  locally  had 
they  been  commanded  by  a  competent 
general,  but  General  Hewitt  does  not 
leem  to  have  comprehended  the  neces- 
«ity  for  vigorous  action,  and  the 
mutineers,  uter  setting  fire  to  the 
hoasesof  the  European  officers,  escaped 
to  Delhi  On  the  morning  of  the 
11th  there  was  still  time  for  the 
British  Cavalry  and  Horse  Artillery 
to  have  reached  Delhi  soon  enough  to 
liave  saved  many  precious  lives,  but 
the  General  took  no  action. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  Native  Cavalry 
•rrived  at  Delhi,  entered  the  city,  cutting 
down  any  Europeans  met  with,  and  then 
found  their  way  to  the  Fort,  and  in- 
duced the  38th  N.I.  to  join  them. 
The  church  was  subsequently  destroyed, 
and  all  Christians  met  with  put  to 
death.  There  were  no  British  troops 
Bther  in  the  Fort,  or  in  the  cantonment 
about  2  m.  outside  the  city.  The  64th 
Kj.  under  Colonel  Ripley  was  marched 
from  the  cantonment  to  the  Fort,  but 
at  once  fraternised  ^itli  the  38th,  and 
allowed  their  officers  to  be  shot  down. 
Major  Abbott  with  the  74th  N.I.  and 
two  guns  arrived  next  on  the  scene, 
but  his  regiment  also  joined  the  muti- 

I  A  traveller  who  desires  a  concise  account 
of  the  siege  of  Delhi,  etc.,  without  military 
technicalities,  cannot  do  better  than  refer  to 
Holmes'  Indian  JfWiny. 


neers.  Lieut.  Willoughby,  with  two 
officers,  and  six  non-commissioned 
officers  defended  the  magazine,  in  the 
city,  against  enormous  odds ;  and 
finally  exploded  it,  only  three  of  them 
surviving.  No  assistance  arriving  from 
Meerut  tnose  who  had  taken  refuge  in 
the  Fort  attempted  to  escape.  Many 
were  shot  down  while  doing  so,  and 
Delhi,  with  its  well-fortified  palace  and 
strong  city  wall,  was  left  in  the  hands 
of  the  mutineers. 

Instant  measures  were  taken  for  the 
concentration  of  European  troops  and 
loyal  native  regiments  upon  Delhi. 
Sir  H.  Barnard  took  command  of  the 
troops  collected  at  Kurnal,  and  ou  5th 
June  reached  Alipur,  where  he  halted 
till  the  Meerut  brigade  joined  him. 
On  the  7th  the  latter  brigade,  after  fight- 
ing two  engagements  with  the  rebels, 
arrived.  On  the  following  day  the 
combined  forces  marched  on  Delhi,  and 
found  the  rebels  well  posted  and 
supported  by  80  guns  6  ra.  north  of 
Delhi,  at  the  village  of  Badli-ka-Serai. 
Attacking  the  mutineers,  Barnard 
gained  a  complete  victory.  The  most 
important  result  of  this  success  was  to 
give  the  British  possession  of  "the 
Ridge,"  from  which  all  subsequent  oper- 
ations against  Dellii  were  made. 

"  On  the  left  and  centre  of  the  Ridge, 
obliquely  to  the  front  of  attack,  the 
tents  of  the  English  were  pitched  a 
little  to  the  rear  of  their  old  houses, 
and  effectually  concealed  from  the  be- 
sieged. The  position  on  the  extreme 
right  invited  attack.  It  was  sur- 
mounted b^  an  extensive  building 
known  as  Hindu  Rao's  house.  A  strong 
body  of  troops  was  posted  here,  and  in 
an  old  observatory  near  it.  About  800 
yds.  to  the  left  of  Hindu  Rao's  house, 
and  on  the  Ridge,  was  an  old  mosque, 
and  again  800  yds.  to  the  left  was  the 
Flag-Staff  Tower,  a  double-storied  circu- 
lar building — a  good  post  for  observa- 
tion, and  strong  enough  to  afford  shelter 
to  troops.  At  these  four  points  Barnard 
established  strong  picquets  supported 
by  guns.  Beyond  Hindu  Rao's  house 
was  the  suburb  of  Subzee-mundee,  which , 
with  its  houses  and  walled  gardens, 
afforded  shelter  to  the  enemy,  and  was 
In  fact  the  key  of  the  English  position. 


134 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


Beyond  Subzee-mundee,  towards  the 
Kabul  Gate,  were  the  villages  of  Kish- 
engunge,  iS-evelyangunge,  Paharipur, 
and  Teliwara,  all  strong  positions  which 
covered  the  enemy  when  they  advanced 
to  the  attack,  but  were  too  near  the  city 
walls  for  us  to  occupy.  A  little  to  the 
S.  of  the  Flaff-Stafi;  but  farther  to  the 
E.,  was  Metcalfe  House,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jumna,  with  substantial  outbuild- 
ings, and  a  mound  in  their  rear,  which 
seemed  to  recommend  it  for  occupation. 
Between  it  and  the  city  was  an  old 
summer  palace  of  the  Emperor,  the 
Kudsiya  Bagh,  with  lofty  gateways 
and  spacious  courtyards,  and  in  a  line 
between  the  latter  and  Hindu  Rao's 
house  was  Ludlow  Castle,  the  house  of 
the  late  Commissioner  Simon  Frazer." 

To  take  this  great  walled  city  General 
Barnard  had  a  force  of  about  3000 
British,  one  Ghoorka  battalion,  the 
Corps  of  Guides,  the  remnant  of  certain 
native  regiments,  and  22  guns.  At 
first  it  was  intended  to  assault  the  city 
by  night,  but  as  failure  would  have 
been  disastrous,  it  was  considered  best 
to  delay  till  the  expected  reinforce- 
ments had  arrived.  Between  the  12th 
and  18th  the  rebels  attacked  the  British 
position  four  times,  in  front  and  rear. 
Again  on  the  23d  they  attacked,  having 
been  reinforced  by  the  mutineers  from 
Nusseerabad.  Fortunately  the  British 
by  that  time  had  received  an  additional 
850  men. 

On  the  24th  General  Chamberlain 
arrived,  and  with  him  the  8th  and  61st 
Europeans,  the  1st  Panjab  Infantry, 
a  squadron  of  Panjab  Cavalry,  and  4 
guns,  raising  the  British  strength  to 
6600.  The  rebels  had  received  an 
accession  of  about  4500  from  Bareilly. 

On  the  9th  and  14th  of  July  fierce 
engagements  were  fought  on  the  right 
of  the  English  position,  near  Hindu 
Rao's  house,  in  and  about  the  Subzee- 
mundee.  In  these  engagements  the 
British  lost  25  officers  and  400  men. 

"On  the  17th  of  July  Gen.  Reed 
resigned  the  command,  and  made  it 
over  to  Brig. -Gen.  Archdale  Wilson. 
At  this  time  the  besieging  force  was  in 
great  difficulties ;  two  generals  had  died, 
a  third  had  been  compelled  by  illness 
to  resign,  the  Adj. -Gen.  and  Quarter- 


master-Gen. lay  wounded  in  their 
tents ;  and  the  rebels  had  attacked  so 
often,  and  with  such  obstiimcy,  that 
it  had  come  to  be  acknowledged  that 
the  British  were  the  besieged  and  not 
the  besiegers.  On  the  18th  of  July 
the  rebels  made  another  sortie,  which 
was  repulsed  by  Col.  Jones  of  the  60th 
Rifles.  The  Engineer  officers  then 
cleared  away  the  walls  and  houses 
which  had  afforded  cover  to  the  eneiny, 
and  connected  the  advanced  posts  with 
the  main  picquets  on  the  Ridge.  After 
this  there  were  no  more  conflicts  in  the 
Subzee-mundee.  On  the  23d  of  July  the 
enemy  streamed  out  of  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  and  endeavoured  to  establish 
themselves  at  Ludlow  Castle.  They 
were  driven  back,  but  the  English 
were  drawn  too  near  the  city  walls, 
and  suffered  severe  loss.  An  order 
was  then  issued  prohibiting  pursuit, 
which  had  led  to  so  many  disasters. 
But  reinforcements  were  now  on  their 
way  from  the  Panjab,  and  were  to  be 
commanded  by  one  of  the  best  soldiers 
that  India  had  ever  produced — Gen. 
Nicholson. 

"On  the  7th  of  August  Nicholson 
stood  on  the  Ridge  at  Delhi.  He  had 
come  on  in  advance  of  his  columa 
of  2600  men,  which  arrived  on  the 
14th.  On  the  25th  he  marched  out 
towards  Najafgarh  with  a  strong 
force  to  attack  the  Sepoys,  who  had 
moved  to  intercept  the  siege  train 
coming  from  Ferozepur.  The  march 
was  a  troublous  one,  through  deep 
mud.  He  found  the  mutineers  in  three 
bodies,  occupying  two  villages  and  a 
sarai  in  front,  afi  protected  by  guns. 
As  the  English  passed  the  ford,  the 
water  being  breast-high  even  there, 
the  enemy  poured  upon  them  a  shower 
of  shot  ana  shell.  Nicholson,  at  the 
head  of  the  61st  and  the  Fusiliers, 
stormed  the  sarai,  and  captured  the 
guns ;  but  the  Sepoys  fought  well, 
and  sold  their  lives  dearly.  Those  who 
survived  limbered  up  their  guns  and 
made  for  the  bridge  crossing  the  Najaf- 
garh  Canal.  Nicholson's  men  over- 
took them,  killed  800,  and  captured  13 
guns.  It  turned  out  to  be  the  Neemuch 
Brigade  who  were  thus  beaten.  The 
Baraili    Brigade   had   not   come   up 


ROUTE  6.       THB  8IEGB  OF  DSLHI 


135 


Nicholson    blew    up    the    Najafgarh 
Bridge,  and  returned  to  camp. 

**  On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  Sep- 
tember the  siege  guns,  drawn  by 
elephants,  with  an  immense  number  of 
ammunition  waggons,  appeared  on  the 
Ridge.  On  the  6th  the  rest  of  the  Rifles 
from  Meerut  marched  in.  On  the  8th  the 
Jummoo  contingent  arrived,  with  Rich- 
ard Lawrence  at  their  head.  Many,  and 
amongst  them  foremost  of  all  Nichol- 
son, chafed  at  the  delay  which  occurred 
in  storming  Delhi.  The  responsibility 
of  the  attack  rested  with  Archdale 
Wilson,  and  he  had  stated  the  magni- 
tude of  the  enterprise  in  a  letter  to 
Baird  Smith,  of  tne  20th  of  August. 
*  Delhi  is  7  m.  in  circumference,  tilled 
with  an  immense  fanatical  population, 
garrisoned  by  full  40,000  soldiers, 
armed  and  disciplined  by  ourselves,  with 
114  heavy  pieces  of  artillery  mounted  on 
the  walls,  with  the  largest  magazine  of 
shot,  shell,  and  ammunition  in  the 
Upper  Provinces,  besides  some  60  pieces 
of  field  artillery,  all  of  our  own  manu- 
facture, and  manned  by  artillerymen 
drilled  and  taught  by  ourselves ;  the 
Fort  itself  having  been  strengthened  by 
perfect  flanking  defences,  erected  bv 
our  own  engineers,  aud  a  glacis  which 
prevents  our  guns  breaching  the  walls 
lower  than  8  ft  from  the  top.*  These 
circumstances  led  Wilson  to  write  that 
the  chances  of  success  were,  in  his 
opinion,  anything  but  favourable  ;  but 
he  would  yield  to  the  judgment  of  the 
chief  engineer.  Many  condemned  his 
apparent  reluctance  to  order  the  assault, 
but  they  have  since  acknowledged  that 
they  did  him  less  than  justice,  for  the 
principles  of  warfare  were  upon  his  side. 

"Investment  by  the  English,  with 
their  limited  means,  being  impossible, 
it  was  necessary  to  concentrate  all  their 
.  breaching  power  on  a  portion  of  the 
walls  selected  for  a  front  of  attack. 
This  was  the  Mori,  Cashmere,  and  Water 
Bastions,  with  their  connecting  cur- 
tains. This  front  was  chosen  because 
the  fire  of  the  Mori  Bastion  alone  com- 
manded the  approach  to  it,  and  because 
there  was  excellent  cover  to  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  walls.  On  the 
evening  of  the  6th  of  September,  a  light 
battery,  consisting  of  six  9 -pounders  and 


two  24-ponnder8,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Remmington,  was  constructed 
on  the  plateau  of  the  Ridge  to  protect 
the  operations  going  on  below.  On  the 
night  of  the  7th  the  first  heavy  battery 
was  constructed  at  700  yds.  from  the 
wall.  It  consistedoftwo  parts  connected 
by  a  trench.  The  right  portion  held 
five  heavy  guns  and  a  howitzer,  the  func- 
tion of  which  was  to  demolish  the  Mori 
Bastion.  The  left  held  four  guns  to  keep 
down  the  fire  of  the  Cashmere  Bastion. 
While  darkness  lasted  the  enemy  only 
fired  twice,  but  when  the  morning  re- 
vealed the  British  plans,  the  rebels 
poured  in  a  shower  of  shot  and  shell, 
but  the  English  persevered  in  their 
work,  and  before  sunset  the  rebel 
battery  was  silenced.  The  English 
had  lost  70  men  in  the  trenches.  The 
left  section  of  their  battery  maintained 
a  fire  on  the  Cashmere  Bastion  during 
the  greater  part  of  three  days,  but  at  noon 
on  the  10th  it  took  fire  and  the  guns 
were  of  necessity  withdrawn.  By  that 
time  No.  2  Battery  had  been  finished 
— the  left  section  immediately  in  the 
front  of  Ludlow  Castle,  and  the  right 
section  90  yds.  to  the  front  of  it.  Both 
were  within  600  yds.  of  the  city ;  the 
right  section  had  seven  howitzers  and 
two  18 -pounders,  and  the  left  section 
nine  24-pounders. 

'*  This  battery  did  not  open  fire  till 
No.  3  Battery  was  completed.  It  was 
built  behind  part  of  the  Custom  House, 
at  180  yds.  from  the  Water  Bastion, 
on  which  it  was  to  play.  The  enemy 
poured  in  such  an  incessant  fire  of 
musketry,  with  occasional  shells,  that 
it  was  impossible  to  work  in  the  day, 
and  difficult  at  night  Meantime  a 
powerful  mortar  battery  was  con- 
structed in  the  Kudsiya  Bagh.  At  8 
A.M.  on  the  11th  of  September  the  nine 
24-pounders  in  the  left  section  of  No. 
2  Battery  opened  with  terrific  effect  on 
the  Cashmere  Bastion.  The  enemy  re- 
plied and  severely  wounded  the  com- 
mandant of  the  heavy  guns,  but  their 
fire  was  soon  silenced  by  No.  2  Battery, 
aided  by  the  mortars  in  the  Kudsiya 
Bagh.  Then  the  walls  of  Delhi  began 
to  fall,  and  whole  yards  of  parapet  came 
down.  At  11  A.M.  on  the  12tn  No.  8 
[Battery  unmasked  and  pounded  the 


186 


BOUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


Water  Bastion  into  ruins.  All  through 
the  12th  and  13th  the  roar  of  50  heavy 
guns  was  heard  day  and  night,  without 
intermission.  On  the  13th  Alexander 
Taylor,  of  whom  Nicholson  said,  *  If  I 
survive  to-morrow  I  will  let  all  the 
world  know  that  Aleck  Taylor  took 
Delhi,'  announced  that  the  breaches 
were  practicable. 

"The  arrangements  for  storming 
Delhi  were  forthwith  made.  The  Ist 
Column  under  Nicholson  consisted  of 
300  men  of  the  76th  Foot,  250  of  the 
1st  Fusiliers,  and  450  of  the  2d  Pan  jab 
Infantry.  It  was  to  storm  the  breach 
in  the  curtain  near  the  Cashmere 
Bastion.  The  2d  Column,  under  Brie. 
Jones,  C.B.,  was  to  storm  the  breach 
in  the  Water  Bastion,  and  it  con- 
sisted of  250  men  of  the  8th  Foot, 
250  of  the  2d  Fusiliers,  and  350  of 
the  4th  Sikhs.  The  3d  Column, 
under  Col.  Campbell  of  the  52d, 
was  to  assault  the  Cashmere  Gate, 
and  consisted  of  200  men  of  the  52d 
Foot,  250  of  the  Eumaon  Battalion, 
and  500  of  the  Ist  Panjab  Infantry. 
The  4th  Column,  under  Major  Charles 
Reid,  who  so  long  and  ^llantly  held 
the  post  at  Hindu  Eao's  house,  was  to 
enter  the  city  by  the  Lahore  Gate.  It 
consisted  of  860  men  of  the  Sirmur 
Battalion,  the  Guides,  and  other  corps. 
The  5th  Column,  the  Reserve,  was  com- 
manded by  Brig.  Longfield,  and  con- 
sisted of  1700  men.  Besides  these  five 
columns,  Hope  Grant  with  600  sabres 
of  the  9th  Lancers  and  Sikh  Horse, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  prevent  sallies 
from  the  Lahore  and  Ajmere  Gates, 
were  for  long  under  heavy  fire. 

"On  the  night  of  the  13th  Lieuts. 
Medley  and  Lang  explored  the  Cash- 
mere breach,  and  Greathed  and  Home 
that  of  the  Water  Bastion.  The  morn- 
ing of  the  14th  was  fine  and  still. 
Nicholson  laid  his  arm  on  Brig.  Jones's 
shoulder,  and  asked  him  if  he  was 
ready.  He  then  rejoined  his  own 
Column,  gave  the  order  to  storm,  and 
immediately  the  heayy  guns,  which 
were  roanng  at  their  loudest,  became 
silent.  The  Rifles  sounded  the  ad- 
vance, and  the  Ist  and  2d  Columns 
ascended  the  glacis.  The  fire  of  the 
enemy  was  terrible,  and  the  Engineers 


Greathed  and  Ovenden  were  the  first 
to  fall.  The  stormers  carrying  the 
ladders  were  led  by  Captain  Barnes 
and  Lieut.  M  etje.  When  Baines  reached 
the  Water  Bastion  he  had  only  25 
men  left  out  of  75.  Both  he  and 
Metje  were  carried  disabled  to  the 
rear.  The  1st  Column  was  divided 
into  two  sections.  Nicholson  him- 
self led  one,  and  Col.  Herbert  of 
the  75th  the  other.  Nicholson  was 
the  first  to  mount  the  wall.  In  the 
other  section  Lieut  Fitzgerald,  who 
was  the  first  to  ascend,  was  shot  dead. 
His  place  was  soon  supplied,  and  soon 
both  sections  of  the  1st  Colunm  had 
carried  the  breach  near  the  Cash- 
mere Bastion,  and  taken  up  their  posi- 
tion at  the  Main  Guard.  The  2d 
Column,  entered  by  the  breach  in  the 
Cashmere  curtain,  doubled  along  the 
open  space  to  their  right,  and  cleared 
the  ramparts  to  the  Mori  Bastion, 
where  the  rebel  gunners  fought  gal- 
lantly, and  were  bayoneted  at  their 
guns.  The  Column  then  advanced 
and  took  the  Kabul  Gate,  on  which  a 
soldier  of  the  61st  planted  a  flag.  From 
the  Lahore  Gate  the  enemy  kept  up  a 
galling  fire.  Nicholson  collected. a 
number  of  men  to  storm  this  gate.  As 
he  advanced  he  found  himself  in  a  long 
narrow  lane  lined  with  marksmen  on 
both  sides.  Some  of  the  enemy's  guns 
were  brought  to  bear  on  the  attacking 
column,  and  the  men  fell  fast.  Major 
Jacob  of  the  1st  Fusiliers  received  his 
death -wound,  Captain  Greville  and 
Lieut.  Speke  were  struck  down.  The 
Column  wavered;  Nicholson  rushed  fo^ 
ward,  his  lofty  stature  rendered  him  con- 
spicuous, and  in  a  moment  he  was  shot 
through  the  body,  and  in  spite  of  his  re- 
m  onstrances  was  carried  to  the  rear  to  die. 
"  The  3d  Column  had  been  appointed 
to  enter  the  city  through  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  which  was  to  be  blown  open  hy 
Lieuts.  Home  and  Salkeld,  Sergeants 
Carmichael,  Burgess,  and  Smith.  Home, 
with  his  bugler,  was  first  down  into 
the  ditch.  He  planted  his  bag,  but  as 
Carmichael  advanced  with  his  he  was 
mortally  wounded.  Smith  then  ad- 
vanced, and  placed  his  dying  comrade's 
bag  as  well  as  his  own,  and  prepared 
the  fnzes  for  ignition.      Salkeld  was 


ROUTE  6.       THE  SIEGE  OF  DELHI 


137 


ready  with  a  slow  match,  but  as  he 
was  lighting  it  he  received  two  bullets, 
and  falling  he  called  on  Smith  to  tako 
the  match,  which  was  taken  by  Bur- 
gess, and  Smith  was  in  the  act  of 
giving  him  a  box  of  lucifers  when  Bur- 
gess also  fell  with  a  bullet  through  his 
body.  Smith  was  now  alone,  but  he 
had  struck  a  light,  and  was  applying 
it  when  a  portfire  went  off  in  his  face. 
There  was  a  thick  smoke  and  dust, 
then  a  roar  and  a  crash,  as  Smith 
scrambled  into  the  ditch.  There  he 
placed  his  hand  on  Home,  who  said  he 
was  unhurt,  and  having  joined  the 
Column  went  forward.  The  gate  had 
been  shattered,  but  not  so  destroyed 
as  had  been  anticipated.  But  the  3d 
Column  passed  through  it.  Smith 
there  obtamed  stretchers,  and  had  Bur- 
gess and  Salkeld  carried  to  the  camp, 
out  both  of  them  died — Burgess  on  the 
way,  and  Salkeld  a  few  days  afterwards." 
Thus  were  the  walls  of  Delhi  won, 
but  before  the  whole  place  was  in  our 
possession  there  was  six  days'  more 
severe  fighting,  which  there  is  not  space 
to  describe.  Our  loss  in  these  street 
encounters  was  most  severe,  and  tried 
greatly  our  exhausted  force. 


Itinbrakt. 

The  sights  of  Delhi  and  its  neigh- 
bourhood cannot  well  be  seen  in  less 
than  3  days.  These  3  days  may  be 
employed  in  the  following  manner  : — 

Ist  Morning. — Fort  and  Palace, 
Jumma  Musjid,  Jain  Temple,  Ealan 
Musjid. 

Afternoon. — Drive  to  Ferozabad  and 
Indrapat. 

2d  Morning. — Visit  sights  outside 
the  town  in  connection  with  the  Mutiny, 
driving  out  by  the  Cashmere  Gate  and 
returnmg  by  the  Mori  Gate. 

Afternoon, — Drive  by  Jey  Sing's  Ob- 
servatory to  Safdar  Jang's  Tomb,  round 
by  Tomb  of  Nizamu-din  Auliya  to  that 
of  Hamayun,  and  so  back. 

Zd  Day. — Starting  early,  drive  to 
Kutb,  stopping  en  route  to  see  the 
Reservoir  of  Hauz-i-Khas.  After  an 
early  limcheon,  proceed  to  Tughlakabad, 
and  back  by  the  Muttra  Boad. 


Objects  of  Interest  within  the 
City. 

The  Fort  which  was  built  by  Shah 
Jehan  in  1638,  has  2  grand  gate- 
ways to  the  W.  The  Lahore  Gate  is 
truly  a  magnificent  building,  and  from 
the  top  is  a  fine  view  looking  W.  to  the 
Jumma  Muqid,  with,  to  its  right,  a 
white  Jain  temple  and  the  Indian 
town.  Straight  from  the  gate  is  the 
street  called  the  Chandni  Chauk, 
"Silver  Square."  To  the  right, 
outside  the  city,  are  Hindu  Rao's 
house,  and  the  other  celebrated  places 
on  the  Ridge  ;  and  immediately  to  the 
S.  is  the  Delhi  GfcUe  of  the  Fort,  very 
similar  in  appearance  and  construction 
to  the  other. 

Passing  under  the  Lahore  gateway, 
the  traveller  will  proceed  due  E.  along 
a  great  arcade  like  a  huge  cathedral, 
but  lined  with  shops  on  each  side,  to 
the  Nakar  Ehana  (A),  beyond  which 
is  the  Diwan-i-'Am  (B),  or  Hall  of 
Public  Audience,  "open at  three  sides, 
and  supported  by  rows  of  red  sandstone 
pillars,  formerly  adorned  with  gilding 
and  stucco-work.  In  the  wall  at  the 
back  is  a  staircase  that  leads  up  to 
the  throne,  raised  about  10  ft.  from 
the  ground,  and  covered  by  a  canopy, 
supported  on  four  pillars  of  white 
marble,  the  whole  being  curiously  in- 
laid with  mosaic  work.  Behind  the 
throne  is  a  doorway  by  which  the 
Emperor  entered  from  his  private  apart- 
ments. The  whole  of  the  wall  behind 
the  throne  is  covered  with  paintings 
and  mosaic,  in  precious  stones,  of  the 
most  beautiful  flowers,  fruits,  birds, 
and  beasts  of  Hindustan.  They  were 
executed  by  Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who, 
after  defrauding  several  of  the  princes 
of  Europe  by  means  of  false  gems,  which 
he  fabricated  with  great  skill,  sought 
refuge  at  the  court  of  Shah  Jehan, 
where  he  made  his  fortune,  and  was  in 
high  favour  with  the  Emperor.  In 
front  of  the  throne,  and  slightly  raised 
above  the  floor  of  the  hall,  is  a  large 
slab  of  white  marble,  which  was  formerly 
richly  inlaid  with  mosaic  work,  ot  which 
the  traces  only  now  remain. "  ^ 

1  Beresford's  Guide  to  Ddhi,  1866. 


138 


ROUTE  6.       PLAN    OP    PALACE 


Indi^ 


Plan  of  Delhi  Palacjc  in  Fort, 


ROUTE  6.       DELHI  CITY 


139 


The  Diwani-Ehas  (D),  or  Private 
Hall  of  Audience,  is  about  100  yds. 
farther  on  to  the  E.,  and  is  a  pavilion 
of  white  marble  open. on  all  sides  and 
richly  ornamented  with  gold  (regilt 
1891)  and  pietra  dura  work.  The  ceiling 
is  said  to  have  been  plated  with  silver, 
which  was  carried  off  by  the  Marathas 
in  1760.  Over  the  N.  and  S.  arches  is 
written  the  famous  Persian  distich : 

If  on  earth  be  an  Eden  of  bliss, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this,  none  but  this. 

In  the  centre  of  the  E.  side  is  the  whUe 
marble  stand  on  which  the  Takht-i- 
Taus,  or  famous  Peacock  Throne, 
carried  away  by  Nadir  Shah  in  1739, 
rested.  It  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the 
Royal  Palace  at  Teheran.  It  "was 
so  called  from  its  having  the  figures 
of  two  peacocks  standing  behind  it, 
tlieir  tails  being  expanded,  and  the 
whole  so  inlaid  with  sapphires,  rubies, 
emeralds,  pearls,  and  other  precious 
stones  of  appropriate  colours,  as  to 
represent  life.  The  throne  itself  was 
6  ft.  long  by  4  ft.  broad ;  it  stood 
on  six  massive  feet,  which,  with  the 
body,  were  of  solid  gold,  inlaid  with 
rabies,  emeralds,  and  diamonds.  It 
was  surmounted  by  a  canopy  of  gold, 
supported  by  twelve  pillars,  all  richly 
emblaaoned  with  costly  gems,  and 
a  fringe  of  pearls  ornamented  the 
borders  of  the  canopy.  Between  the 
two  peacocks  stood  the  figure  of  a 
parrot  of  the  ordinary  size,  said  to 
have  been  carved  out  of  a  single 
emerald.  On  either  side  of  the  throne 
stood  an  umbrella,  one  of  the  Oriental 
emblems  of  royalty.  They  were  formed 
of  crimson  velvet,  richly  embroidered 
and  fringed  with  pearls ;  the  handles 
were  8  ft.  high,  of  solid  gold,  and 
studded  with  diamonds.  The  throne 
was  planned  and  executed  under  the 
supervision  of  Austin  de  Bordeaux, 
already  mentioned  in  connection  with 
the  Diwan-i-'Am.'* 

^  TheSamanBiirj(6)andRangMahal 
(C),  to  the  S.  of  the  Diwan-i-Khas,  has 
in  the  centre  of  its  N.  wall  a  richly 
carved  and  gilt  screen,  with  a  small 
window  in  the  middle,  and  above,  the 
Mizan-i-Insaf,  or  ^'scales  of  justice." 


The  ladies'  apartments  here  are  of 
white  marble,  beautifully  inlaid  below, 
with  fresco-work  above,  and  adorned 
with  gilded  scrolls.  In  the  old  days, 
as  is  explained  by  the  verses,  they  were 
surrounded  by  a  formal  Oriental  garden 
and  fountains.  The  palace  must  then 
have  been  more  beautiful  than  any- 
thing in  the  East  that  we  know  of.  Now 
everything  has  been  cleared  away ;  even 
the  houses  have  been  removed,  and  the 
buildings  that  are  left  have  become 
quarters  for  the  English  soldiers. 
Viewing  the  detached  remnants  of  the 
royal  residence  as  they  now  stand,  it  is 
difficult  to  realise  the  general  idea  on 
which  the  ground  was  laid  out,  but  this 
will  be  rendered  more  easy  by  an  exam- 
ination of  the  accompanying  native  plan 
of  the  palace  in  its  splendour,  from  a 
plate  in  Fergusson's  Indian  Architec- 
ture, 

A  shallow  channel  for  water  runs 
from  the  Baths  beneath  the  Diwan-i- 
Khas  across  the  open  courtyard  to  the 
Saman  Burj.  '-  The  Baths  (F),  called  the 
'Akab  Baths,  are  a  little  to  the  N.  of 
the  Diwan-i-Ehas.  They  consist  of  3 
large  rooms,  floored  with  white  marble, 
elaborately  inlaid  witK  pietra  dura 
work,  and  crowned  with  white  marble 
domes.  In  the  centre  of 'each  room 
there  is  a  fountain,  and  in  the  wall  of 
one  of  them  a  reservoir  of  marble. 
These  baths  were  lighted  by  windows 
of  coloured  glass  in  the  roof. 

Opposite  to  them,  to  the  W. ,  is  the 
Moti  Musjid(E),  or  the  "Pearl  Mosque," 
an  architectural  gem  of  white  and  gray 
marble.  It  has  a  bronze  door  covered 
with  designs  in  low  relief,  and  the 
fa9ade  has  three  arches.  The  mosque 
proper  has  three  arches,  and  is  divided 
into  two  aisles.  The  arches  display 
some  Hindu  influence.  The  walls  are 
most  delicately  decorated  with  low 
reliefs.  Saiyad  Ahmad  says  it  was 
built  in  1635  a.d.  by  Aurangzib,  and 
cost  160,000  rs. 

The  rest  of  the  palace  has  been  cleared 
away  to  make  room  for  barracks,  etc. 

Jumxna  Musjid. — This  mosque  is 
said  to  'be  unrivalled  for  size.  Mr. 
Fergusson  says  it  "is  not  unlike  the 
Moti   Musjid   in   the  Agra   Fort   in 


140 


ROUTB  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


plan,  though  built  on  a  very  much 
larger  scale,  and  adorned  with  two 
noble  minarets,  which  are  wanting 
in  the  Agra  example ;  while  from  the 
somewhat  capricious  admixture  of 
red  sandstone  with  white  marble 
it  is  far  from  possessing  the  same 
elegance  and  purity  of  effect.  It  is, 
however,  one  of  the  few  mosques,  either 
in  India  or  elsewhere,  that  is  designed 
to  produce  a  pleasing  effect  externally. 
It  is  raised  on  a  lofty  basement,  and  its 
three  gateways,  comoined  with  the  four 
angle  towers  and  the  frontispiece  and 
domes  of  the  mosque  itself,  make  up  a 
design  where  all  the  parts  are  pleasingly 
subordinated  to  one  another,  but  at  the 
same  time  produce  a  whole  of  great 
variety  and  elegance.  Its  principal 
gateway  cannot  be  compared  with 
that  at  Fatehpur  -  Sikri,  but  it  is 
a  noble  portal,  and  firom  its  smaller 
dimensions  more  in  harmony  with  the 
objects  by  which  it  is  surrounded." 
The  gateways  are  surmounted  with 
galleries,  on  the  roof  of  which  are  fif- 
teen marble  domes,  with  spires  tipped 
with  gold.  Above  these  are  six  fluted 
marble  minarets,  with  open  arched 
chambers  at  the  top,  and  surmounted 
with  gilt  pinnacles.  These  three  noble 
gateways  are  approached  by  grand 
flights  of  steps,  unrivalled  elsewhere. 
As  of  old  only  the  Mogul  Emperor 
could  enter  the  main  gateway,  so  now 
only  the  Viceroy  of  the  Queen-Empress 
may  do  so.  Hence  it  remains  shut 
save  on  a  Viceroy's  visit. 

The  doors  are  massive  and  overlaid 
with  brass  arabesques  half  an  inch  thick, 
giving  access  to  a  stately  quadrangle, 
325  ft.  square,  in  the  centre  of  which 
are  a  marble  basin  and  fountain. 
Round  three  sides  of  the  quadrangle 
runs  an  open  sandstone  cloister,  15  ft. 
wide,  with  pillars  of  the  same  material. 
The  mosque  proper  is  201  ft.  long  and 
120  ft.  broad.  The  inscription  gives 
the  date  in  Arabic  as  1658  a.d.,  the 
year  in  which  Aurangzib  deposed  his 
father,  Shah  Jehan. 

Five  thousand  workmen  were  em- 
ployed for  six  years  in  the  construction 
of  this  mosque.  At  the  N.E.  comer  is 
a  pavilion  in  which  are  placed  relics  of 
Hohammed.    The  traveller  must  not 


forget  to  ask  to  see  the  MSS.  and  relics 
here.  There  is  a  Koran  written  in 
Euflk  of  the  time  of  'Ali,  that  is  in  the 
7th  century  of  our  era ;  qne  written  by 
the  Imam  Husain,  very  clear  and  well 
preserved  ;  one  written  by  the  Imam 
Hasan,  the  pages  of  which  are  much 
crumpled  at  the  beginning ;  the  Kafsh- 
i-Mubarak  or  "Prophet's  Slipper," filled 
with  jasmine;  the  Eadmu'l  Mubarak, 
"  Footprint  of  the  Prophet "  imprinted 
on  a  stone  ;  Mui-i-Mubarak,  a  hair  of 
the  Prophet's  moustaches  ;  and  part  of 
the  canopy  over  the  Prophet's  tomb. 
The  two  minarets  rise  to  the  height  of 
130  ft.  They  contain  staircases,  and 
the  ascent  to  the  top  is  easy.  At  the 
top  are  small  pavilions,  from  which  the 
whole  city  can  be  viewed. 

Chandni  Chaiil^  which  is  the  princi- 
pal street  of  the  city,  runs  from  E.  to 
W.  in  almost  a  direct  line  from  the 
Lahore  Gate  of  the  Fort  to  the  Lahore 
Gate  in  the  W.  wall  of  the  city.  It  is 
lined  with  fine  trees,  and  has  a  covered 
aqueduct  running  along  the  middle. 
The  chief  articles  of  native  manufac- 
ture are  jewellery  and  embroidery  in 
gold  and  silver,  and  the  best  shops  are 
in  this  street.  In  the  centre  of  the 
Chandni  Chauk  is  the  Northbrook 
Fountain.  The  Mosque  of  Roshanu- 
daulah,  also  called  the  Sonala  or 
"  Golden  Mosque,"  from  its  three  gilt 
domes,  is  close  to  this  fountain.  It  was 
built  in  Muhammad  Shah's  reign,  by 
Roshanu-daulah  Zafar  Khan  in  1721 
A.  D.  It  is  a  small  but  beautiful  build- 
ing, and  on  it  Kadir  Shah  sat  during 
the  massacre  at  Delhi.  The  KotwaU 
is  next  to  it,  and  it  was  here  that 
Hodson  exposed  the  bodies  of  the  Delhi 
Princes  whom  he  had  killed.  At  the 
W.  end  of  the  Chandni  Chauk  is  the 
Fatehptki  Mosque.  It  was  built  in 
1650  A.D.  by  Fatehpiiri  Begam,  wife  of 
Shah  Jehan.  It  is  of  red  sandstone. 
There  are  two  minarets  105  ft.  high. 
The  Mor  (or  QueerCs)  Sarai,  in  Queen's 
Road,  near  the  rly.  sta.,  is  a  modem 
structure  built  by  the  Municipal  Com- 
mittee at  a  cost  of  100,570  rs.  for  the 
accommodation  of  native  travellers. 

Close  by  are  the  Queen's  Gardens. 
They  have  the  Chandni  Chauk  skirting 
then)  to  the  S.,  and  fs^ce  the  rly.  an4 


BOUTB  6.      DBLHI  GITT 


141 


8ta.  on  the  N.     They  are  laid  out  with 
beautiful  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds, 
and  in  them  stands  a  huge  stone  ele- 
pliant.    On  the  platform  upon  which  it 
id  raised  is  an  iUseription  stating  that  it 
was  brought  from  Gwalior,  and  set  up 
outside  the  south  eate  of  his  new  palace 
by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan,  1645  a.d. 
A  legend  relates  that  the  two  famous 
Rajput  chiefs,  Jaimall  and  Patta,  who 
defended  Chitor  against  Akbar,  were 
rejpresented  by  stone  figures  riding  on 
this  and  another  elephant  which  has 
been  lost.     Akbar  himself  killed  Jai- 
mall, and  set  up  the  elephants,  with 
the    two    warriors    riding    on    them, 
at  Agra.     Shah  Jehan  brought  them 
to  Delhi.      They  were  mutilated  by 
Aurangzib  and  lost  sight  of.     The  two 
figures  are  now  in  the  yerandah  of  the 
Museum  of  the  Institute,  which  con- 
tains little  of  interest  except  portraits 
of  the  two  Lawrences,  Sir  R.  Mont- 
gomery, Nicholson,  Lord  Metcalfe,  Lord 
,    Canning,  and  others — ^poor  pictures,  but 
i    better  than  none.     The  Clock  Tower 
I    adjoins  this  building,  and  stands  in  the 
I    Chandni  Chauk.      It  is  of  red  sand- 
!    stone,  128  ft.  high. 

The  Ealan  Musjid,  or  Black  Mosque, 
j    to  the  S.  of  the  town  near  the  Turku- 
I    man  Gate,^  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit  as 
I    one  of  the  most  perfect  specimeus  of 
I    the  age  of  Feroz  Shah  Tughlak,  1386. 
I       On  the  outside,  the  building  consists 
of  two   stories,   of  which'  the  lower, 
forming  a  kind  of  plinth  to  the  actual 
place  of  worship,  is  28  ft.  high,  the 
total  height  to  the  top  of  the  battle- 
ments being  66  ft.     '  *  The  sloping  style 
of  the  architecture  seems    peculiarly 
illustrative  of  the  buildings  of  that  and 
earlier  periods.     The  sloping  pilasters 
on  each  side  of  the  main  entrance  give 
somewhat  of  an  Egyptian  appearance 
to  the  front  of  the  building,  which  is 
not  dissimilar  from  those  of  the  more 
ancient  remains  of  Hindu  architecture. 
.  .  .  The  peculiar  construction  of  the 
arches  and  domes,  the  stones  of  which 

1  The  Tarkuman  Gate  has  its  name  from  a 
saint  called  Shah  Tttrkuman,  who  was  styled 
the  "  Sun  of  Devotees."  He  died  in  688  a.h.  = 
1240  A.D.,  in  the  time  of  Muizzu-din  Bahram 
Shah-  There  is  a  pavement  round  his  tomb, 
and  on  the  24th  of  Rajab  a  great  &ir  is  held 
here 


are  held  together  by .  the  wonderful 
adhesive  qualities  of  the  lime  used  in 
those  days,  without  any  keystones,  is 
characteristic  of  the  Mohammedan 
Indian  buildings  of  the  14th  cent'* 
(Carr  Stephen).  The  walls,  which  are 
very  thick,  have  in  the  upper  story  a 
number  of  openings,  fillea  with  red 
stone  screens,  now  much  mutilated. 
There  is  a  stern  look  about  this  sombre 
unadorned  building,  the  plan  of  which 
Bishop  Heber  sa^s  **is  exactly  that  of 
the  onginal  Arabian  mosques — a  square 
court  surrounded  by  a  cloister  and 
roofed  with  many  small  domes  of  the 
plainest  and  most  solid  construction." 

The  Jain  Temple,  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
Jumma  Musjid  (about  end  of  last  cent. ) 
is  approached  by  narrow  streets,  and 
stands  upon  a  high  walled  platform 
gained  by  narrow  steps.  It  consists  of 
a  small  marble  court  surrounded  by  a 
stucco  colonnade  in  front  of  the  temple 
proper,  which  rises  breast-high  above 
the  court  and  is  surmounted  by  an 
oblong  dome.  Within,  the  ceiling  and 
walls  are  richly  gilded,  and  are  sup- 
ported by  two  rows  of  small  marble 
columns.  In  the  centre  of  the  temple 
is  a  pyramidal  platform  in  3  tiers,  upon 
which  rests  a  small  figure  of  Buddha, 
seated  beneath  an  elaborate  ivory 
canopy.  In  the  porch,  Ferguason 
draws  particular  attention  to  the  ex- 
quisite device  of  filling  in  the  back  of 
the  struts  which  support  the  architrave 
beneath  the  dome — characteristic  of 
Jain  architecture — with  foliated  tracery. 

The  Cambridge  MiBsion  to  Delhi 
was  sent  out  from  the  University  in 
1876.  The  members  live  in  community 
at  the  Mission  House  near  the  United 
Service  Hotel.  They  work  among  the 
natives  in  connection  with  the  S.r.G. 
which  has  an  old-established  station 
here.  The  Mission  Compound  and  St 
Step1ien*8  Mission  Church,  are  close  to 
the  railway  station.  The  two  Missions 
conjointly  have  charge  of  St.  StepherCs 
College^  of  a  native  boys'  boarding 
school  with  600  pupils,  and  several 
day  schools. 

The  S.P.G.  has  also  a  Medical  Mis- 
sion here. 


142 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


Sites  in  connection  with  the 
Mutiny  and  Siege  of  1857. 

The  Ridge  is  outside  the  city  about  1 
m.  to  the  N.  W.  The  traveller  driving 
there  from  the  rly.  sta.  will  pass  the 
following  objects  of  interest  on  his  way. 

Near  the  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices 
are  the  3  Gateways  of  the  Arsenal, 
which  was  blown  up  by  Willoughby 
on  the  11th  May  1867.  They  have 
been  left  standing  in  memoriam.  From 
what  remains  it  is  evident  that  it  was 
a  fine  building. 

St.  James's  Memorial  Church,  rt., 
was  erected  at  the  sole  expense  of  Colonel 
Skinner,  as  recorded  in  a  tablet  on  left 
of  entrance.  Another  tablet  records 
that  he  died  at  Hansi  in  1841,  and  was 
buried  in  this  church  in  1842.  It  is  a 
rotunda,  with  four  large  porticoes  sup- 
ported by  pillars. 

In  the  church  are  a  large  number  of 
tablets  of  unusual  interest,  some  to 
commemorate  regimental  losses,  some 
in  remembrance  of  whole  families,  and 
others  in  memory  of  individuals.  It  is 
a  sad  list ; '  a  record  of  evil  times. 

Beyond  to  the  W.  is  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  which  was  blown  in  on  the 
morning  of  14th  September,  and  the 
site  of  the  breaches  close  to  it  through 
which  the  storming  columns  Nos.  1 
and  2  passed.  On  a  slab  set  up  by 
Lord  Napier  of  Magdala,  just  outside 
the  gate,  the  event  is  described. 

Just  inside  the  Cashmere  Gate  was 
posted  the  Main  Guard  at  the  time  of 
the  Delhi  Mutiny. 

Outside  the  Cashmere  Gate,  the 
Eudsiya  Gardens  are  about  300  yds. 
to  the  N.  ;  they  are  prettily  laid  out. 
Near  them  in  the  CeTnetery^  close  to  the 
entrance,  is  the  tomb  of  General  Nichol- 
son, one  of  the  greatest  heroes  of  India. 

"  Who  led  the  assault  of  Delhi,  but  fell 

In  the  hour  of  victory, 

Mortally  wounded. 

And  died  23d  of  September  1857. 

Aged  85  years." 

There  is  a  splendid  monument  to 
Nicholson  in  tne  Punjab,  near  Rawal 
Pindi,  but  this  is  the  place  where  his 
body  was  actually  interred.  At  the 
end  farthest  from  the  entrance  is  a 
memorial  cross  25  ft.  high. 


Just  beyond  the  Cemetery  is  Lud- 
low Castle,  a  large  house  which  was 
the  residence  of  Simon  Frazer,  the  mur- 
dered Commissioner  of  Delhi.  There 
are  two  blocks  of  masonry  in  the  com- 
pound inscribed  as  follows : — 

No.  2  Battery,  Left, 

With  annament  nine  24-poanders, 

Mnjor  Campbell,  R,A.,  commanding. 

To  breach  curtain  of  Cashmere  Bastion. 

The  2d  block  is  160  yds.  to  the  S.E. 
and  close  to  the  cemetery  wall : — 

No.  2  Battery,  Right, 

Armament  two  IS-pounders  and 

Seven  8-inch  howitzers, 

Mi^or  Edward  Eaye,  B.A.,  commanding 

Ludlow  Castle  was  a  post  of  importance  | 
in  the  closing  scene  of  the  siege  of  Delhi,  | 
as  will  be  seen  from  the  historical  sum- 
mary above.  Continuing  along  the 
Alipur  Road,  at  some  little  distance  the 
traveller  will  pass  Metcalfe  House  on 
the  right,  and  shortly  after  will  reach 
the  Ridge  Road,  which  commands  a  fine 
view.  Here  is  the  Flag-staff  Battery, 
a  castellated  tower,  now  auite  empty. 

Turning  at  an  acute  angle  to  the  S.E.  I 
the  Second  Picquet,  300  yds.  to  the  S.,  is  I 
reached,  and  400  yds.  farther  in  the  same ! 
direction  is  a  mosque,  where  the  Mosqne 
Picquet  was  stationed.     The  building 
is  now  a  picturesque  ruin.     It  is  a 
Pathan  mosque,  with  the  remains  of 
the  battery  in  front.     200  yds.  to  the 
S.E.  is  Hindu  Bao's  House,  which  is 
now  used  as  a  convalescent  hospital  for 
soldiers.    It  is  a  large  white  bungalow. 
About  200  yds.  S.  of  it  is  Asoka's  Pillar. 

Asoka's  Pillar. — On  the  pedestal  is 
a  tablet  stating  that  this  pillar  was 
originally  erected  at  Meerut,  in  the  3d 
century  before  Christ,  by  King  Asoka. 
It  was  removed  thence,  and  set  up  in 
the  Kushak  Shikar  Palace,  near  tnis, 
by  the  Emperor  Feroz  Shah,  1356  A.D.; 
thrown  down  and  broken  into  five 
pieces  by  the  explosion  of  a  powder 
magazine  in  1713-19.  It  was  removed 
and  set  up  in  this  place  by  the  British 
Government  1867  (see  vol.  v.  of  the 
Arcfb.  Rep. )  There  are  two  of  Asoka's 
pillars  at  Delhi,  this  one  and  another 
standing  on  the  top  of  a  building  in 
Feroz  Shah's  Kotila,  in  Ferozabad  (see 
below).  Both  of  these  pillars  were 
brought  to  Delhi  by  Feroz  Shah.    The 


THE     ENVIRONS 
OF 

BBLHI. 


SumfardJi  G&c^^  IsU^^ J^ruUft^, 


TQ/a<iejK  143, 


ROUTB  6.   OLD  DELHI  AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD 


143 


small  inscriptions  on  this  pillar  are 
dated  Samwat  1369  =  1312  a.d.  ;  Sam- 
wat  1416  =  1359  A.  D.  ;  Samwat  1581  = 
1524  A-D.  All  the  long  inscriptions 
are  given  at  the  end  of  Saiyad  Ahmad's 
Quide. 

The  Mutiny  Memorial.— This  is  400 
yds.  farther  on  along  the  Kidge,  and 
is  of  red  sandstone.  It  forms  an  octa- 
gonal Gothic  spire,  standing  on  three 
diminishing  platforms,  with  seven  win- 
dows, and  was  erected  to  commemorate 
the  events  of  the  siege,  the  names  of 
the  regiments  and  batteries  who  served 
at  it,  and  of  the  officers  who  died  in  the 
performance  of  their  duty.  Ascending 
to  the  top  of  the  building,  the  traveller 
will  gain  a  complete  view  of  the  posi- 
tion. In  the  plain  to  the  N.  of  the 
Ridge  is  the  spot  where  H.  M.  the  Queen 
of  England  was  proclaimed  Empress  of 
India  on  the  1st  of  January  1877.  On 
that  day  Lord  Lytton  occupied  a  place 
in  a  centre  pavilion,  with  an  amphi- 
theatre in  front  of  him  in  which  were 
all  the  feudatory  princes  and  chiefs  of 
India,  while  at  his  back  sat  the  leading 
European    officials  and    envoys   from 

1  places  even  as  distant  as  Siam,  and  to 
the  W.  an  army  of  about  60,000  men, 
British  and  Indian,  was  drawn  up. 

Turning  from  the  Ridge  S.  by  the 
circulai'  road,  the  traveller  may  re-enter 
the  city  by  the  Mori  Gate,  close  to 

I  which  is  seen  the  Mori  Bastion,  from 
which  the  rebels  maintained  so  terrible 
a  fire  till  the  storming. 

Old  Delhi  and  the  Neighbourhood. 

The  Idgah  is  west  of  the  city  about 
1  m.  from  the  walls,  and  not  far  off  is 
theKadam  Sharif^  or  **Holy  Footstep" 
(also  called  the  Farash  Khana),  where 
there  is  the  tomb  of  Prince  Fateh  Khan, 
built  by  his  father  Feroz  Shah  in  1374. 
There  is  also  a  Mosque,  College,  and 
other  buildings,  and  a  mii-aculous  im- 
press of  the  Prophet's  foot,  said  to  have 
been  brought  from  Mecca  by  the  young 
Prince's  tutor. 

The  JaU  is  J  m.  S.  of  the  Delhi  Gate, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  to 
Ferozabad.  It  was  an  old  Caravansarai, 
and  the  walls  are  25  ft.  high,  and  very 
I  massive.  Paper,  mats,  carpets,  and 
beddixig  are  made  in  the  workshops. 


To  the  E.  about  250  yds.  from  the 
jail  is  the  fort  of  Ferozabad,  built  by 
Feroz  Shah  Tughlak,  1354.  It  is  now 
utterly  ruined,  but  must  have  been  a 
strong  place  in  the  old  time  when  it 
was  the  citadel  of  a  city  which  extended 
from  the  fort  of  Indrapat  to  the  Kushak 
Shikar,  or  "Hunting  Palace,"  near 
Hindu  Rao's  house,  where  the  other 
Pillar  of  Asoka,  called  the  Delhi  Meerut 
Pillar,  now  stands.  The  three-storied 
building  called  Kotila  (see  below), 
stands  due  N.  and  S.,  at  J  m.  to  the 
W.  of  the  Jumna.  The  tibree  stories 
diminish  in  area  as  they  rise. 

The  Lat,  or  Asoka  pillar  erected  on 
the  roof,  is  broken  at  the  top  in  a 
jagged  way.  Cunningham  calls  it  the 
Delhi-Siwalik  Pillar,  as  it  was  brought 
from  Tophar  at  the  foot  of  the  Siwalik 
Hills,  where  the  Jumna  enters  the  plains. 
It  is  a  monolith  of  pink  sandstone,  but 
the  people  of  the  locality  called  it 
(Kurund)  corundum  stone.  *'Wheu 
the  pillar  was  fixed,  the  top  was  orna- 
mented with  black  and  white  stone- 
work surmounted  by  a  gilt  pinnacle, 
from  which  no  doubt  it  received 
its  name  of  Minar  Zarin  or  *  Golden 
Minaret.'  This  gilt  pinnacle  was  still 
in  its  place  in  1611  a.d.,  as  when 
William  Finch  in  that  year  visited 
Delhi,  he  described  the  pillar  as  passing 
through  three  several  stories,  rising  24 
ft.  above  them  all,  having  on  the  top  a 
globe  surmounted  by  a  crescent. "  The 
pillar  is  10  ft.  10  in.  round,  where  it 
issues  from  the  roof,  and  the  total  height 
is  42  ft.  7  in.,  of  which  4  ft.  1  in.  is 
sunk  in  the  masonry.  At  10  ft.  1  in. 
from  the  roof  are  some  Nagri  inscrip- 
tions, ivith  the  dates  in  two  of  them, 
Samwat  1581  =  1 524  A.  D.  These  must 
have  been  inscribed  after  the  removal 
of  the  pillar  to  Delhi.  The  others 
were  written  at  Tophar.  Above  these 
Nagri  inscriptions  is  the  Pali,  which 
contains  the  edict  of  Asoka  prohibiting 
the  taking  of  life.  The  Pali  inscription 
dates  from  the  middle  of  the  3d  century 
B.O.,  and  the  characters  are  of  the  oldest 
form  that  has  yet  been  found  in  India.  ^ 
Though  it  is  very  clearly  written,  when 
Feroz  Shah  assembled  all  the  learned 
of  the  day  to  decipher  the  inscription, 
they  were  unable  to  do  bo.    The  last  tea 


144 


BOUTB  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


lines  on  the  £.  face,  as  well  as  the  whole 
of  the  continuous  inscription  round  the 
shaft,  are  peculiar  to  this  pillar,  other- 
wise the  inscription  is  to  the  same 
purport  as  those  on  the  pillars  of  Gimar 
and  Allahabad.  Theie  is  a  second  in- 
scription, which  records  the  yictories 
of  the  Chauhan  Prince  Yisaladeva. 
whose  power  extended  from  Himadri 
to  Vindhya.  This  record  consists  of 
two  portions,  the  shorter  one  immedi- 
ately above  Asoka's  edicts,  and  the 
longer  immediately  below  them.  Both 
are  dated  Samwat  1220  =  1163  a.d.,  and 
refer  to  the  same  prince.  The  minor 
Inscriptions  are  of  Uttle  interest. 

Indrapat  or  Furana  KUla  (Old 
Fort).^At  2  m.  S.  of  the  Delhi  Gate, 
the  trayeller  (having  passed  rt.  the  fine 
gateway  of  Lai  Darwazah)  will  come  to 
the  Old  Fort,  on  the  site  of  Indra- 
prastha,  the  ancient  city  of  Yudish- 
thira,  which  fort  was  repaired  by 
Humayun,  who  changed  its  name  to 
Dinpanah.  The  walls  of  the  Old  Fort 
have  crumbled  in  many  places,  and  it 
certainly  has  the  appearance  of  great 
antiquity.  There  have  been  several 
gStes,  but  all  are  closed  save  one  to 
the  S.W.,  reached  by  a  steep  incline. 
The  EiUa  Kona  Mosque,  the  chief  ob- 
ject of  interest,  is,  Fergusson  says,  one 
of  the  most  satisfactory  buildings  of  its 
class  ill  India.  It  is  a  noble  specimen 
of  the  late  Pathan  period,  in  which 
**  every  detail  was  fitted  to  its  place 
and  its  purpose.  We  forget  the  Hindu 
except  in  its  delicacy,  and  we  recognise 
one  of  the  completed  architectural 
styles  of  the  world."  It  is  big  and 
bold  with  huge  arches  and  S'harp  finely- 
cut  mouldings.  To  reach  it  you  pass 
along  a  lane  between  poor  houses.  It 
was  built  by  Sher  Shah  in  948  a.h.  = 
1541  A.D.  It  is  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid 
with  marble  and  slate,  and  covered  with 
inscriptions,  texts  from  the  Koran,  in 
the  Naskh  and  Kufik  characters.  In 
the  alcoves  and  other  parts  the  inlaid 
work  is  very  beautiful.  The  fa9ade  is 
about  150  ft.  long,  and  consists  of  5 
bays.  The  pendentives  of  the  vaulting 
are  remarkably  fine  and  should  not 
escape  notice,  and  the  struts  which 
support  the  side  bays,  which  are  oblong 
in  plan  and  not  square    ore  curious. 


The  white  marble  Kiblah  is  covered 
with  texts,  which  are  marvels  of  caU- 
graphy.  In  the  angle  towers  at  the 
back  of  the  mosque  are  octagonal 
pavilions  richly  ornamented  with  ex- 
quisite designs  in  red  sandstone.  To 
the  S.  is  an  octagonal  building  of  red 
sandstone  called  the  Sher  Mandil,  70  ft. 
high.  In  963  a.h.  =  1565  a.d.  Huma- 
yun placed  his  library  here.  On  that 
very  night  it  was  understood  that 
Venus  would  rise,  and  the  Emperor, 
wishing  to  see  it,  fell  down  the  staircase 
and  died  a  few  days  afterwards  of  the 
injuries  he  received. 

Tomb  of  Nizam-ud-din  Auliyaisabout 
1  m.  S.  of  Indrapat,  and  stands  within 
an  enclosure  surrounded  by  other  tombs 
and  sacred  buildings.  The  traveller 
must  leave  his  carriage  and  walk 
through  ruins  to  an  archway.  At  30 
yds.  from  this  is  the  Chausath  Ehamba, 
or  **Hall  of  64  Pillars,"  the  resting- 
place  of  'Azizah  Kokal  Tasb,  foster- 
brother  of  the  Emperor  Akbar.  It  is 
all  of  white  marble  ;  and  the  "chased 
style  in  which  the  pillars  are  orna- 
mented, the  well -finished  groined 
arches,  and  the  beautiful  screens,  form 
an  uncommonly  beautiful  sight." 
Azizah's  cenotaph,  also  of  white  marble 
bearing  the  date  1623,  is  at  the  W. 
end  ;  beyond  it  is  that  of  his  mother, 
and  there  are  eight  others. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Chausath  Khamba 
is  an  enclosure  in  which  is  the  Dargah 
of  Nizam-vd-din,  The  first  thing  on 
entering  to  be  noticed  is  the  tomb  of  the 
Amir  Khtiarau  the  poet.  The  real  name 
of  this  personage  was  Abu  '1  Hasan,  and 
he  was  called  Tuti-i-Hind,  "  Parrot  of 
Hindustan,"  from  the  sweetness  of  his 
style.  His  grandfather,  a  Turk,  came 
to  Hindustan  from  Trans-oxyana,  in 
the  time  of  Changiz  Khan,  and  died  at 
Delhi,  leaving  a  son  named  Amir  Mah- 
mud,  or  according  to  others,  Saifu- 
din,  who  was  high  in  the  favour  of  the 
Emperor  Tughlak  Shah.  He  perished 
in  battle  against  the  Hindus.  His  son 
Amir  Khusrau  succeeded  to  the  royal 
favour,  and  enjoyed  the  confidence  and 
patronage  of  seven  successive  emperors. 
He  became  so  famous  that  it  is  said 
that  S'adi,  the  celebrated  Persian  poet, 
visited  India  for  the  sole  purpose  of 


ROUTE  6.   OLD  DELHI  AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD 


146 


seeing  liim.  He  was  the  author  of  98 
works,  of  which  the  greater  part  are 
lost.  His  songs  are  still  in  popular 
use.    He  died  at  Delhi  in  1315. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  small  square 
building  which  forms  Khusrau's  tomb 
is  a  tall  white  marble  slab,  on  which  is 
written,  first  the  Moslem  Creed,  and 
then  18  Persian  couplets.  N.  of  this 
tomb  is  that  of  Mirza  Jehangir,  son  of 
Akbar  Shah  II.  There  are,  as  custo- 
dians of  the  tombs  here,  50  descendants 
of  Nizamu-din's  sister.  The  saint  him- 
self never  married.  The  family  are 
Sufis.  The  tomb  is  of  white  marble, 
and  the  handsome  lattice-work  is  of  the 
same  materiaL  It  is  on  the  right  of 
the  entrance  into  the  enclosure,  and  the 
tomb  of  Muhammad  Shah  is  on  the 
left.  Muhammad  Shah  was  the  em- 
peror whom  Nadir  Shah  despoiled  of 
immense  treasures. 

To  the  S.  of  it  is  the  tomb  of  the 
truly  pious  and  heavenly-minded  i/eAaTi- 
araj  daughter  of  Shah  Jehan.  At 
the  W.  end  is  a  headstone  6  ft.  high, 
on  which  at  top  is  in  Arabic,  **  God  is 
the  life  and  the  resurrection,"  followed 
by  the  letter  Mim,  one  of  the  mystical 
letters  of  the  Koran,  under  which  is  a 
Persian  inscription  as  follows  : — 

Save  the  green  herb,  iiUce  naught  above  my 

head. 
Such  pall  alone  befits  the  lowly  dead ; 
The  fleeting  poor  Jehanara  lies  here, 
Her  sire  was  Shah  Jehan  and  Chlst  her  Fir. 
May  God  the  Ohazi  monarch's  proof  make 

clear. 

The  verses  end  with  a  conventional 
line,  which  expresses  a  prayer  for  her 
father.     The  date  is  1681. 

The  holy  men  of  Chist  are  the  family 
described  in  connection  with  the  Dargah 
at  Ajmere. 

On  the  left  of  Jehanara's  tomb  is  that 
of 'Ali  Gauhar  Mirza,  son  of  Shah  'Alam, 
and  on  the  ri^ht  that  of  Jamilu 
l^isa,  daughter  of  Akbar  Shah  II. 

The  building  covering  the  tomb  of 
I^izamu-din,  the  greatest  of  the  re- 
nowned Chisti  saints,  is  of  white 
marble;  it  is  18  ft.  sq.,  and  has 'a 
verandah  8  ft.  broad,  built  by  Mir 
Miran's  son.  The  date  is  1063  a.h.= 
1652  A.D. 

Over  the  actual  cenotaph  is  a  wooden 


canopy,  and  as  usual  with  tombs  ot 
great  personages  it  is  covered  with  a 
cloth.  The  lattice-work  screens  of  white 
marble  are  exquisitely  carved,  and  the 
verandah  is  ornamented  with  a  painted 
flower  scroll.  To  the  W.  two  fine  trees 
overshadow  the  building,  and  a  few 
yards  to  the  S.  of  them  is  a  Kirni  tree, 
said  to  be  as  old  as  the  time  of  Nizamu- 
din. 

N.  of  this  is  a  Well  with  galleries, 
built  by  the  saint,  who  is  said  to  have 
blessed  it,  so  that  no  one  who  dives  in  it 
is  ever  drowned.  The  usual  depth  is  39 
ft.  Into  this  men  and  boys  spring  from 
the  roofs  and  walls  of  the  adjacent  build- 
ing, coming  down  from  a  height  of  50  ft. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  tomb  enclosure 
is  a  square  marble  cistern,  holding 
perhaps  twelve  gallons,  which  when  a 
person  desires  to  make  an  offering  has 
to  "be  filled  with  a  mixture  of  rice, 
sugar,  milk,  and  other  good  things. 
On  one  occasion,  when  the  writer  sat 
reading  in  the  mosque,  one  of  the 
principal  dancing  women  of  Delhi 
arrivea  to  pay  her  devotions,  accom- 
panied by  her  mother  and  her  attendant 
musicians,  and  bringing  the  food  in  a 
very  large  iron  pot  with  her.  Whilst 
this  was  preparing  she  dressed  herself 
in  cloth  of  gold  and  danced  for  a  long 
time  before  the  tomb  of  Khusrau,  and 
afterwards  for  a  shorter  time  before 
that  of  Nizamu-din.  When  this  part  of 
the  ceremony  was  over,  the  food  which 
had  been  placed  in  the  marble  vessel  was 
distributed  in  a  very  orderly  manner 
to  every  one  connected  with  the  place, 
H.  G.  Keene  says  of  Nizamu-din  :  "  He 
is  said  by  some  to  have  been  a  sorcerer, 
by  others  an  assassin  of  the  secret 
society  of  Khorasan.  Sleeman  was  of 
opinion  that  he  was  the  founder  of 
Thuggism,  as  the  Thugs  profess  a  special 
reverence  for  his  memory." 

Humayun's  Tomb  about  1  m.  S.  of 
Indrapat.  The  approach  is  through 
two  gateways,  the  first  being  of  red 
sandstone,  and  lofty.  On  the  left  of 
the  second  door  of  the  entrance  is  a 
placard  which  says  that  the  Nawab 
Hamidah  Banc  Begam,  otherwise  called 
Haji  Begam,  widow  of  Humayun,  built 
the   mausoleum   after   her  husband's 

L 


146 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


death.  He  died  in  1555  a.d.  It  cost  1 5 
lakhs,  and  took  16  years  to  build. 
Hamidah  Bano  and  other  members  of 
the  Imperial  family  are  buried  here. 
The  mausoleum  stands  upon  a  wide 


Sketch  Plan  of  Humayun's  Tomb. 

raised  platform,  and  consists  of  a  large 
central  octagon  surmounted  by  a  dome 
with  octagon  towers  of  unequal  sides 
at  the  angles.  "  Its  plan  is  that  after- 
wards  adopted  at  the  Taj,  but  used 
here  without  the  depth  and  poetry  of 
that  celebrated|building.  It  is,  however, 
a  noble  tomb,  and  anywhere  else  must 
be  considered  a  wonder "  (Fergusson). 
A  side  door  leads  into  a  chamber  in 
which  are  three  beautiful  white  marble 
tombs,  being  those  of  'Alamgir  II., 
Farakh  Sir,  and  Jehandar  Shah. 
There  are  no  names  or  dates.  Huma- 
yun's cenotaph  is  of  white  marble,  and 
is  under  the  centre  of  the  dome,  in  an 
octagonal  hall, — it  is  quite  plain,  with- 
out any  inscription. 

The  enclosure  in  which  the  mauso- 
leum stands  contains  about  11  acres. 
The  red  sandstone  is  most  artistically 
picked  out  in  relief  with  white  marble. 
The  windows  are  recessed,  and  the 
lower  doors  are  filled  in  with  lattices 
cut  out  of  the  solid  stone  and  marble. 
In  the  centre  of  each  side  of  the  main 
octagon  is  a  porch  40  ft.  high  with  a 
pointed  arch.  The  wall  of  the  dome 
IS  11  ft.  thick,  and  covered  with  slabs 
of  white  marble.  The  view  from  the 
top  is  worth  seeing.  Hither  Baha- 
dur Shah  fled  after  the  storming  of 
Delhi  in  1857,  and  surrendered  to 
Hodson,  who  on  the  following  day,  with 
a  small  force  and  in  the  presence  of  a 
threatening  concourse  of  natives,  re- 
turned for  the  princes,  the  sons  of 
Bahadur  Shah,  who  also  surrendered 
and  were  shot  by  him  on  the  spot. 


Jai  (Jey)  Sing's  Observatory,  or  the 
Jantr  Mantr,  is  2  m.  S.  of  the  Ajmere 
Gate  and  250  yds.  to  the  1.  of  the  main 
road.  Mr.  Beresford's  description  of  all 
these  buildings  is  the  best  (see  Delhi, 
1856).^  "The  largest  of  the  buUdings 
is  an  immense  equatorial  dial,  named 
by  the  Raja  the  Samrat  Yantra,  or  ' 
*  Prince  of  Dials,*  the  dimensions  of  the 
gnomon  being  as  follows  : — 


Length  of  hypothenose 
„       base     . 
„       perpendicular 


ft.  in. 

118  5 

104  0 

50  7 


These  buildings,  chiefly  interesting 
to  persons  who  have  a  knowledge  of 
astronomy,  were  constructed  in  1137 
A.H.  =  1724  A.D.,  by  Jai  Sing  XL,  Rajah 
of  Jeypore,  commonly  called  Sawai  Jai 
Sin^.  He  was  an  engineer,  mathe- 
matician, and  an  astronomer.  He  con- 
stracted  on  his  own  plan  this  Observa- 
torv,  and  others  at  Jeypore,  Benares, 
and  Ujjain.  All  the  buildings  are  now 
much  ruined. 

Tomb  of  Safdar  Jang. — At   f  m. 

beyond  the  Jantr  Mantr,  on  the  i  ight 
of  the  road,  is  the  tomb  of  Safdar  Jang; 
whose  real  name  was  Abu  '1  Mansnr 
Khan,  Safdar  Jang  being  merely  his 
title.  He  was  Vazir  to  Ahmad  Shah, 
eldest  son  of  the  Emperor  Muhammad 
Shah.  In  1749-50  Safdar  Jang  engaged 
in  a  war  with  the  Rohillas,  and  was 
defeated  in  a  great  battle,  when  he  was 
obliged  to  call  in  the  Marathas.  In 
1753  he  was  deprived  of  his  office  of 
Vazir,  and  died.  His  son,  Shuj'au- 
daulah,  appointed  Balal  Muhammad 
Khan  to  superintend  the  building  of 
this  mausoleum,  which  cost  three  lakhs 
of  rupees.  It  is  of  red  sandstone  and 
stucco.  Safdar  Jang's  wife,  Khujistah 
Bano  Begam,  is  buried  with  him. 

The  mausoleum  stands  in  an  en- 
closure. On  the  left  of  the  entrance 
is  a  sarai  for  travellers,  and  on  the 
right  a  mosque  with  three  cupolas.  On 
the  ground  platform  are  two  earthen 
mounds,  which  are  the  real  graves. 
This  building  is  99  ft.  sq.  and  three  stories 
high,  and  contains  in  the  central  apart- 
ment the  marble  cenotaph.  Fergusson 
bestows  only  qualified  praise  upon  it,  say- 
ing *4twill  not  bear^close  inspection." 


ROUTE  6.       OLD  DELHI  AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD 


147 


A  cross-road  leads  from  this  mau- 
solenm  to  Humayuu's  Tomb,  which  is 
distant  under  3  m.  On  the  left  of  this 
road  is  a  group  of  four  tombs,  regarding 
which  General  Cunningham  writes: 
"The  N.  group,  consisting  of  two  octa- 
^nal  tombs  and  a  bridge  of  seven  arches, 
IS  attributed  by  the  natives  to  the  time 
of  the  Lodi  ramily,  the  larger  tomb, 
within  a  square,  being  assigned  to 
Sikandar  Lodi,  and  I  believe  that  this 
attribution  is  most  probably  correct. 
But  the  S.  group,  which  consists  of  a 
mosque  and  two  square  tombs,  belongs, 
in  my  opinion,  to  an  earlier  period." 
■  Haxu-i-ESias. — This  reservoir  was 
constructed  by  Sultan  'Alan -din  in 
the  year  1298  A.D. ;  it  is  2  m.  N.  of  the 
Kutb,  near  the  village  of  Kharera,  and 
is  difficult  of  approach,  as  there  is  no 
carriage-road  to  it.  It  is  most  easily 
reached  from  Safdar  Jane's  tomb.  The 
area  of  the  tank  is  a  little  over  100 
Indian  acres.  It  is  now  a  complete 
ruin.  Feroz  Shah  cleared  it  out  in  the 
year  1854  A.D.,  and  repaired  it  and 
built  a  coU^  near  it,  at  which  Yusuf 
Bin  Jamal  Husaini  was  professor,  and 
be  was  buried  in  the  courtyard  of  the 
college.  The  tomb  of  Feroz  shah  stands 
on  tne  bank.  He  died  in  1888  a.d. 
The  tank  is  now  dry,  and  is  culti- 
vated. 

From  Safdar  Jang^s  tomb  to  the 
Eutb  Minar  is  full  5  m.  Near  Begam- 
pur  there  is  a  mosque  800  yds.  to  the 
left  of  the  ro**?. 

The  Kntb  Miliar,  with  its  adjacent 
'mosque  and  surrounding  buildings,  is 
about  11  m.  from  the  Ajmere  Gate,  and 
stands,  it  is  said,  on  the  site  of  the 
original  Hindu  city  of  Dilli,  probably 
in  the  Fort  of  Lalkot  built  by  Anang 
Pal  II.  in  1052  a.d.  Adjoining  to  the 
E.  was  the  Fort  of  Rai  Pithora,  1180 
A.D.  The  line  of  fortification  of  these 
places  is  indicated  by  the  mound  ex- 
tending several  miles  to  the  W.  and 
N.W. 

The  Kutb  is  a  grand  monument,  and 
ilooks  what  it  is  intended  to  be — a 
r  tower  of  victory.  It  has  been  a  question 
whether  it  was  not  originally  Hindu, 
altered  and  completed  by  the  Moham- 
medan conquerors.  It  is  the  general 
belief  of  the  people  that  it  was  built 


by  Rai  Pithora,  that  his  daughter 
mi^ht  see  the  Jumna  from  the  top 
of  it.  Saiyad  Ahmad  inclines  to  the 
belief  that  it  is  "of  Hindu  origin.  But 
Cunningham  seems  to  come  to  the  right 
conclusion  that  it  is  a  purely  Moham- 
medan building.^  The  inscriptions 
appear  to  show  that  it  was  begun  by 
Altamsh.  As  we  see  it  at  present,  it  is 
240  ft.  6  in.  high,  and  rises  in  a  suc- 
cession of  5  stories  marked  by  corbelled 
balconies  and  decorated  with  bandis 
of  inscription.  The  base  diameter  is 
47  ft.  3  in.,  and  that  of  the  top  about 
9  ft.  The  three  first  stories  are  of 
red  sandstone  with  semicircular  and 
angular  flutings  ;  the  two  upper  stories 
are  faced  chiefly  with  white  marble, 
and  were  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by 
Feroz  Shah  Tughlak  in  1368,  when  he 
also  added  a  cupola.  On  Ist  Aug. 
1803  the  whole  pillar  was  seriously 
injured  by  an  earthquake  and  the 
cupola  thrown  down.  It  was  injudi- 
ciously restored  in  1829,  when  besides 
the  injury  to  the  inscriptions  already 
mentioned,  the  battlements  and  the 
balconies  were  removed  and  replaced 
by  the  present  flimsy  balustrades,  and 
an  entirely  new  cupola  (now  standing 
on  a  mound  by  the  side  of  the  tower) 
was  erected.  This  cupola  does  not 
pretend  to  any  resemblance  to  the 
original  one.  Notice  should  be  taken 
of  the  honeycomb  work  beneath  the 
brackets  of  the  first-story  balconies,  of 
which  the  "structure  differs  in  no 
perceptible  degree  from  that  in  the 
Alhambra."  It  is  worth,  for  the  sake 
of  the  view,  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  the 
Minar,  where  may  be  seen  the  stump 
of  Feroz  Shah's  cupola. 
The  Mosque  of  Kutb'ul  Islam  (Euvat 
ul  Islam)  was  begun  by  Kutb-ud-din 
Aibak  when  Viceroy,  immediately  after 
the  capture  of  Delhi  in  587  a.h.  =  119] 
A.D.,  as  recorded  by  the  King  himselt 
in  the  long  inscription  over  the  inner 
archway  of  the  E.  entrance.  Even  in 
ruins  it  is  a  magnificent  work.  It  was 
seen  by  Ibn  Batuta  about  150  years 
after  its  erection,  when  he  describes  it 
as  having  no  equal,  either  in  beauty  or 
extent.     It  is  not  so  large  as  the  great 

1  For  particulars  regarding  the  discnssion 
see  AtcIkeo.  Rejxyrief  vol.  i.  p.  190. 


148 


ROUTE  6.      BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


mosques  of  Jaunpur  and  others,  but 
is  still  unrivalled  for  its  grand  line  of 
gigantic  arches,  and  for  the  graceful 


demolished  by  the  Mohammedans. 
Altamsh  in  1210-1230  surrounded  it 
by  a  larger  cloistered  court,  in  the  S.E. 


PLAN 

OF 

MOSQUE  OF  KUTBU'L  ISLAM 

AND  THE 

KUTB  MINAR 


OTomb 
Imam 


of 
Zamin 


Scale  of  Feet     ALAI   DARWAZAH 


IVaiierO-BoutaU  sc. 


beauty  of  the  flowered  tracery  which  I  comer  of  which  stands  the  Kutb  Minar, 

covers  its  walls.  !  and  in  1300  *Ala-ud-din  appended  a 

It  occupies  the  ])latform  on  which    further  eastern  court,   entered  by  his 

stood   Rai  Pithora's    Hindu    Temple,  |  great  S.  gateway  the  Alai  Darwazah 


ROUTE  6.       OLD  DfiLHI  AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD 


149 


(see  below).     'Alau-din  also  began  tbe 

Alai  Minar   (see   below).      The  main 

entrance  to  the  mosque  is  an  arched 

gateway  in  the  centre  of  its  E.  wall. 

This  opens  upon  the  courtyard  (142 

ft.  X 108  ft),  which  is  surrounded  by 

cloisters  formed  of  Hindu,  Buddhist, 

and  Jain  pillars  placed  one  upon  another. 

Some  of  these  are  richly  ornamented  ; 

many  of  the  figures  have  been  defaced  by 

the  Mohammedans,  though  some  may 

i  still  be  found  in  unnoticed  comers.   The 

number  of  pillars  thus  brought  into 

use  could  not  have  been  much  less  than 

1200.     The  Arabic  inscription  over  the 

,  E.  entrance  to  the  courtyard  states  that 

the  materials  were  obtained  from  the 

demolition  of  27   idolatrous  temples, 

I  each  of  which  had  cost  27   lakhs  of 

'  dilials,  50  dilials  being  equal  to  1  rupee. 

I  The  cost  of  the  whole,  therefore,  was 

'  £108, 000.     The  domed  pavilions  in  the 

'  angles  of  the  cloisters  are  worthy  of 

notice.     The  S.  side  of  the  cloister  was 

"with  a  strange  want  of  discrimination" 

reconstructed  in  1829. 

The  famous  Iron  Pillar  (see  below) 
stands  in  front  of  the  central  opening 
to  the  mosque  proper,  a  building  of 
small  proportions,  now  in  ruins  over- 
topped and  hidden  by  the  vast  screen 
of  gigantic  arches  which  occupies  the 
whole  of  the  W.  side.  This  screen  was 
erected  by  Kutb  later  than  his  other 
work,  and  was  extended  beyond  on 
either  side  for  115  ft.  by  Altamsh. 
The  central  arch  is  53  ft.  high  x  31  ft. 
wide.  "The  Afghan  conquerors  had  a 
tolerably  distinct  idea  that  pointed 
arches  were  the  true  form  of  architec- 
tural openings,  but  being  without 
science  sufficient  to  construct  them, 
they  left  the  Hindu  architects  and 
huiiders  to  follow  their  own  devices  as 
to  the  mode  of  carrying  out  the  form. 
Accordingly  they  proceeded  to  make 
the  pointed  openings  on  the  same  piin- 
ciple  upon  which  they  built  their  domes 
—they  carried  them  up  in  horizontal 
courses  as  far  as  they  could  and  then 
closed  them  by  long  slabs  meeting  at 
the  top."  The  impost  in  the  central 
arch  was  added  by  the  British  restorers. 
The  ornamentation,  interspersed  with 
texts  from  the  Koran,  is  evidently 
taken  from  that  on  the  old  pillars. 


Fragments  of  the  roof  of  the  mosque 
still  remain,  supported  by  the  small 
Hindu  columns,  and  do  not  reach  more 
than  one-third  of  the  height  of  the 
screen. 

The  Iron  Pillar  is  one  of  the  most 
curious  antiquities  in  India.  The  Col- 
ossus of  Rhodes  and  the  statues  of 
Buddha,  described  by  Hiouen  Thsang, 
were  of  brass  or  copper,  hollow,  and  of 
pieces  riveted  together  ;  but  this  pillar 
is  a  solid  shaft  of  wrought  iron,  more 
than  16  in.  in  diameter,  and  23  ft.  8  in. 
in  length.  The  height  of  the  pillar 
above  ground  is  22  ft. ,  but  the  smooth 
shaft  is  only  15  ft.,  the  capital  being  3 J 
ft.  and  the  rough  part  below  also  3 J  ft. 
Dr.  Murray  Thompson  analysed  a  bit 
of  it,  and  found  that  it  was  pure 
malleable  iron  of  7*66  specific  gravity. 

**The  iron  pillar  records  its  own 
history  in  a  deeply  cut  Sanscrit 
inscription  of  six  lines  on  its  W.  face. 
The  inscription  has  been  translated  by- 
James  Prinsep  (B.A.S.  Joum,  vol.  vii. 
p.  630).  The  pillar  is  called  *  the  Arm 
of  Fame  of  Raja  Dhava.*  It  is  said 
that  he  subdued  a  people  on  the 
Sindhu,  named  Vahlikas,  and  obtained, 
with  his  own  arm,  an  undivided  sover- 
eignty on  the  earth  for  a  long  period." 
It  appears  that  the  Raja  was  a  wor- 
shipper of  Vishnu,  and  the  pillar  was 
probably  surmounted  by  a  figure  of 
that  deity.  James  Prinsep  assigns  the 
3d  or  4th  century  after  Christ  as  the 
date  of  the  inscr3j)tion,  which  Mr. 
Thomas  considers  too  high  an  antiquity. 
General  Cunningham  suggests  the  year 
319  A.D.  According  to  universal  tradi- 
tion, the  pillar  was  erected  by  Bilan 
Deo,  or  Anang  Pal,  the  founder  of  the 
Tomar  dynasty.  The  name  of  Anang 
Pal  also  is  inscribed  on  the  shaft,  with 
the  date  Samwat  1 109  =  1052  a.d.  The 
remaining  inscriptions  are  numerous 
but  unimportant.  At  7  ft.  3  in.  from 
the  pedestal  there  is  a  Nagri  inscrip- 
tion. At  4  ft.  above  the  inscription  is 
a  deep  indentation,  said  to  have  been 
made  by  a  cannon-ball  fired  by  the 
troops  of  the  Bhurtpur  Raja. 

Tomb  of  Altamsh  (who  died  in  1235 
A.D.)  outside  the  N.W.  corner  of  the 
great  enclosure  of  the  mosque.  It  is 
of  red  sandstone.     The  main  entrance 


150 


BOUTE  6.      BOKBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


is  to  the  E.,  bnt  there  are  also  openings 
to  the  N.  and  S.  The  interior  is  in- 
scribed with  beautifully  written  pass- 
ages of  the  Koran,  and  in  the  centre  of 
the  W.  side  is  a  Kiblah  of  white  marble 
discoloured  with  age.  About  5  ft.  from 
the  ground  are  several  lines  in  Kufik. 
The  tomb  is  in  the  centre,  and  has 
been  greatly  injured  ;  the  top  part  is  of 
modern  masonry.  Cunningham  says 
that  there  is  no  roof,  "but  there  is 
good  rea.son  to  believe  that  it  was 
originally  covered  by  an  overlapping 
Hindu  dome.  A  single  stone  of  one 
of  the  overlapping  circles,  with  Arabic 
letters  on  it,  still  remains. "  Fergusson 
says :  **  In  addition  to  the  beauty  of 
its  details,  it  is  interesting  as  being  the 
oldest  tomb  known  to  exist  in  India. " 

The  Alai  Darwazah,  40  ft.  to  the 
S.K  from  the  Kutb  Minar,  is  the  S. 
entrance  of  the  great  or  outer  enclosure 
to  the  mosque.  This  gateway  was 
built  of  red  sandstone  richly  orna- 
mented with  patterns  in  low  relief,  in 
1310  A.D.,  by  'Alau-din.  Over  three 
of  the  entrances  are  Arabic  inscriptions, 
which  give  'Alau-din's  name,  and  his 
well-known  title  of  Sikandar  Sani, 
the  second  Alexander,  with  the  date 
710  A.H.  The  building  is  a  square. 
On  each  side  there  is  a  lofty  doorway, 
with  pointed  horse -shoe  arches.  In 
each  comer  there  are  two  windows 
closed  by  massive  screens  of  marble 
lattice-work.  A  few  yards  to  the  E. 
stands  the  richly  «arved  building,  in 
which  is  the  tomb  of  Imam  Zamin,  or 
father  of  Imam  Muhammad  'Ali,  of 
Mashhad.  He  is  otherwise  called 
Saiyad  Husain.  He  came  to  Belhi  in 
the  reign  of  Sikandar,  and  himself  built 
the  mosque  as  a  tomb.  He  died  in  944 
A.H.  =  1537  A.D.,  and  left  in  his  will 
that  he  should  be  buried  here.  There 
is  an  inscription  in  the  Tughra  char- 
acter over  the  door.  It  is  a  small 
domed  building,  about  18  ft.  square,  of 
red  sandstone  covered  with  chunam. 

Alai  Minar  is  at  the  distance  of  435 
ft.  due  N.  from  the  Kutb.  Just  above 
the  base  or  platform,  which  is  4  ft.  3 
in.  high,  the  circumference  is  269  ft. 
The  traveller  must  climb  8  ft.  of  wall 
to  get  into  this  Minar.  The  whole 
stands  on  a  mound  6  ft.  high.     The 


inner  tower  and  outer  wall  are  made 
of  large  rough  stones,  very  coarse 
work,  as  the  stones  are  put  in  anyhow. 
The  total  height  as  it  now  stands  is  70 
ft  above  the  plinth,  or  87  ft  above 
the  ground-level  A  facing  of  red  stone 
would  doubtless  have  been  added.  The 
entrance  is  on  the  E.,  and  on  theN. 
there  is  a  window  intended  to  light 
the  spiral  staircase.  Had  this  pillar 
been  finished  it  would  have  been 
about  600  ft  high.  'Alau-din  Khilji, 
who  built  it,  reigned  from  1296  to 
1316  A.D.,  and  Cunningham  thinb 
that  the  building  was  stopped  in 
1812. 

Metcalfe  House  was  the  tomb  of 
Muhammad  Kuli  Khan,  the  foste^ 
brother  of  Akbar.  It  has  been  en- 
larged, and  rooms  have  been  added  for 
modern  requirements.  It  is  less  than 
a  4  m.  from  the  Kutb  Minar.  Sir 
T.  Metcalfe  made  this  his  residence 
during  the  four  rainy  months.  There 
were  beautiful  gardens  in  his  time,  and 
fine  stables  to  tne  S.,  of  which  only  the 
entrance  pillars  now  remain. 

Some  other  Buildings. — 1  m.  to  the 
N.E.  is  a  solitary  tower.  N.  of  this 
tower  is  the  tomb  of  Akbar  Khan, 
brother  of  Adham  and  Muhammad 
Kuli  Khan.  ^  m.  along  a  made  road  to 
the  S.W.  are  the  tombs  of  Jamaln- 
din  and  Kamalu-din,  Maulvis ;  they 
are  white  marble,  covered  with  roo^ 
and  have  side  walls  adorned  with  en- 
caustic tiles  and  exquisite  decorations. 
The  handsome  mosque  of  Faizu  'llah 
Khan  is  close  to  these. 

The  Police  Rest-hoiise  is  the  Tomb 
of  Adham  Elian;  it  lies  S.W.  of 
the  Kutb,  and  is  76  ft  high.  This 
Khan  was  put  to  death  by  Akbar  for 
killing  the  Emperor's  foster-brother. 
Adham  was  thrown  from  the  top  of  a 
lofty  building,  and  it  happening  that 
his  mother  died  the  same  day,  the  two 
bodies  were  brought  to  Delhi  and  in- 
terred here.  Close  by  is  a  deep  Well 
into  which  the  natives  let  themselves 
fall  from  a  height  of  60  ft.  above  the 
water,  and  then  demand  8  annas  each 
&om  the  spectators. 

S.W.  of  the  Kutb  Minar  is  the 
village  of  Maharoli.  The  tomb  of 
Eutbu-din  Ushi  is  here,  as  are  also 


ROUTE  6.       OLD  DELHI  AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD 


151 


wveral  tombs  of  kings  after  the  time 
of  Aurangzib.  |  m.  from  this  a 
paved  way  is  passed  leading  to  the 
Temple  of  Jog  Maya,  which  is  very 
famous  amongst  Hindas,  who  refer  it 
to  the  very  ancient  date  of  Krishna's 
childhood.  In  fact,  however,  the 
present  building  was  erected  in  1827. 
There  is  no  image  in  it.  There  is  a 
fair  here  every  week.  On  the  right  are 
the  ruins  of  the  palace  of  Altamsh,  and 
on  the  left  tlie  entrance  gateway  to  a 
garden  of  the  king. 

Tughlakabad. — This  fort  is  upwards 
of  4  m.  to  the  E.  of  the  Kutb.  It 
is  on  the  left  of  the  main  road  coming 
from  Delhi,  and  is  built  on  a  rocky 
eminence  from  15  to  30  ft.  high. 
Cunningham  thus  describes  it  (Arch. 
Bep.  vol.  i.  p.  212) :  "  The  fort  may 
be  described  with  tolerable  accuracy  as 
a  half  hexagon  in  shape,  with  three  races 
of  rather  more  than  |  m.  in  length, 
and  a  base  of  1^  m.,  the  whole  circuit 
bein^  only  1  furlone  less  than  4  m.  It 
stands  on  a  rocky  height,  and  is  built 
of  massive  blocks  of  stone,  so  large  and 
heavy  that  they  must  have  been  quar- 
ried on  the  spot.  The  largest  measured 
was  14  ft.  in  length  by  2  ft.  2  in.,  and  1 
ft  thick,  and  weighed  rather  more  than 
6  tons.  The  short  faces  to  the  W. ,  N. , 
and  E.  are. protected  by  a  deep  ditch, 
and  the  long  face  to  the  S.  by  a  large 
sheet  of  water,  dry,  except  in  the  rainy 
season,  which  is  held  up  by  an  embank- 
ment at  the  S.E.  comer.  On  this  side 
the  rock  is  scarped,  and  above  it  the 
main  walls  rise  to  a  mean  height  of  40 
ft,  with  a  parapet  of  7  ft,  behind  which 
rises  another  wall  of  15  ft.,  the  whole 
height  above  the  low  ground  being 
upwards  of  90  ft" 

In  the  S.W.  angle  is  the  citadel, 
which  occupies  about  one-sixth  of  the 
area.  It  contains  the  ruins  of  an  exten- 
sive palace.  The  ramparts  are  raised 
on  a  line  of  domed  rooms,  which  rarely 
communicate  with  each  other,  and 
which  formed  the  quarters  of  the 
garrison.  The  walls  slope  rapidly  in- 
wards, as  much  as  those  of  Egyptian 
buildings,  and  are  without  ornament, 
but  the  vast  size,  strength,  and  visible 
solidity  of  the  whole  give  to  Tugh- 
lakabad an  air  of  stern  and  massive 


grandeur  that  is  both  striking  and  im- 
pressive. The  fort  has  thirteen  gates, 
and  there  are  three  inner  gates  to  the 
citadel.  It  contains  seven  tanks,  and 
ruins  of  several  large  buildings,  as  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  and  the  Birij  Mandir. 
The  upper  part  is  full  of  ruined  houses, 
but  the  .lower  appears  never  to  have 
been  fully  inhabited.  Saiyad  Ahmad 
states  that  the  fort  was  commenced  in 
1321,  and  finished  in  1323,  a.d. 

The  fine  Tomb  of  TugMak  is  outside 
the  S.  wall  of  Tughlakabad,  in  the 
midst  of  the  artificial  lake,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  pentagonal  outwork, 
which  is  connected  with  the  fort  by 
a  causeway  600  ft.  long,  supported  on 
27  arches.  Mr.  Fergusson  says  :  ''The 
sloping  walls  and  almost  Egyptian 
solidity  of  this  mausoleum,  combined 
with  the  bold  and  massive  towers  of 
the  fortifications  that  surround  it,  form 
a  picture  of  a  warrior's  tomb  unrivalled 
anywhere."  The  outer  walls  have  a 
slope  of  2*333  in.  per  foot;  at  base 
they  are  11-)-  ft.  thick,  and  at  top  4  ft. 
The  exterior  decoration  of  the  tomb 
itself  depends  chiefly  on  difference  of 
colour,  which  is  effected  by  the  free  use 
of  bands  and  borders  of  white  marble 
inserted  in  the  red  sandstone.  In  plan 
it  is  a  square,  and  three  of  its  four  sides 
have  lofty  archways,  the  space  above 
the  doorway  being  filled  with  a  white 
marble  lattice  screen  of  bold  pattern. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  white  marble 
dome.  A  lesser  dome  within  the  same 
pentagon  covers,  it  is  said,  the  tomb 
of  one  of  Tughlak's  ministers. 

"Inside  the  mausoleum  there  are 
three  cenotaphs,  which  are  said  to  be 
those  of  Tughlak  Shah,  his  Queen,  and 
their  son  Juna  Khan,  who  took  the 
name  of  Muhammad  when  he  ascended 
the  throne." 

A  causeway  runs  to  *Adildbad,  the 
fort  of  Tughlak's  son  Juna  Khan,  who 
assumed  the  title  of  Muhammad  Shah 
bin  Tughlak.  He  was  a  famous  tyrant, 
and  is  still  spoken  of  as  the  Khuni 
Sultan,  "the  bloody  King."  Feroz 
Shah,  his  successor,  got  acquittances 
from  all  those  he  had  wronged,  and 
put  them  in  a  chest  at  the  head  of  the 
tyrant's  tomb,  that  he  might  present 
them  when  called  to  judgment. 


i52 


ROUTE  7.       AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


ROUTE  7 


ahmedabad  to  the  runn  of  cutch 
(Wadhwan,     Bhaunaoar,     Pali- 

TANA,  GiRNAR,  AND  SoMNATH). 

Leaving  Ahmedabad  (Rte.  6),  310  m. 
from  Bombay  the  Sabaraiati  is  crossed 
on  a  fine  bridge,  with  a  footway  for 
passengers  alongside,  and  carrying  the 
rails  for  both  broad  and  narrow  gauges. 
From,  4  m.,  Sabarmati  (junc.  sta.), 
on  N.  bank  of  the  river  of  that  name, 
the  narrow  gauge  continues  N.  to  Delhi 
and  Agra,  whilst  the  broad  gauge  turns 
W.,  and  passing  through  a  well-culti- 
vated country,  reaches  at 

"40  m.  Viramgam  junc.  sta.,  3^^  a 
walled  town.  Pop.  20,000.  The  Man- 
sar  tank  dates  from  the  end  of  the  11th 
century.  It  is  shaped  like  a  shell,  and 
surrounded  by  flights  of  stone  steps ; 
round  the  top  of  the  steps  runs  a  row 
of  small  temples.  The  inlet  is  much 
ornamented.  The  neighbourhood 
abounds  in  black  buck,  grouse,  and 
all  manner  of  water-fowl. 

[From  this  place  a  branch  line  runs 
N.W.  passing  at  17  m.  Patri,  D.B.,  a 
small  walled  town  with  a  Citadel ;  and, 
at  22  m.,  reaches  Eharaghoda,  where 
there  are  very  extensive  government  salt- 
pans on  the  edge  of  the  Buim  of  Cutch. 
in  the  dry  season  the  Runn  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  hard,  smooth  bed  of 
dried  mud,  and  may  be  ridden  over 
at  any  place.  There  is  absolutely  no 
vegetation  except  on  some  small  islands 
which  rise  above  the  level  of  the  salt 
inundation ;  the  only  living  creatures 
that  inhabit  it  are  some  herds  of  wild 
asses,  which  feed  on  the  lands  near  its 
shores  at  night,  and  retreat  far  into  the 
desert  in  the  daytime.  With  the  com- 
mencement of  the  S.W.  monsoon  in 
May,  the  salt  water  of  the  Gulf  of  Cutch 
invades  the  Runn,  and  later  in  the 
season  many  rivers  from  Raj  pu tana 
pour  fresh  water  into  it.  The  sea  is 
now  encroaching  rapidly  on  the  Runn 
at  its  iunction  with  the  Gulf  of  Cutch, 
and  there  is  reason  to  suppose  that 
serious  changes  of  level  are  taking  place. 
The  centre  of  the  Runn  is  slightly 
higher  than  the  borders,  and  dries  first. 


The  railway  has  many  sidings  extend- 
ing into  the  Runn,  to  facilitate  the 
collection  of  the  salt,  which  is  stacked 
at  the  station  in  very  large  quantities 
under  the  custody  of  the  Salt  Customs 
Department.  Originally  it  was  con- 
sidered necessary  to  erect  expensiveroofs 
ever  the  salt  stacks,  but  experience  has 
shown  that  this  can  be  dispensed  with. 
The  salt  is  evaporated  by  the  heat 
of  the  sun  from  brine  brought  up  in 
buckets  from  depths  of  15  to  30  ft. 
The  mirage  is  beautiful  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood, and  in  the  winter  season  the 
flights  of  flamingoes  and  other  birds 
are  extraordinarily  large.  There  are 
grouse  to  be  had  in  the  neighbourhood.] 

80  m.  Wadhwan  junc.  sta.  D.B.  To 
the  W.  runs  the  Morvi  State  Railway, 
the  exclusive  property  of  the  Morvi' 
state,  constructed  on  2J  ft.  gauge  to 
maintain  communication  with  Morvii 
JetaUar  and  Rajkot.  To  the  S.  the  line 
IS  continued  by  means  oHhQBhaunagar 
Gondal  Railway  ^  a  portion  of  the  metre- 
gauge  system,  which  opens  up  a  large 
number  of  places  in  South  Kattywar. 
These  railways  are  under  a  central 
administration,  but  are  the  property  of 
the  states  through  which  they  pass. 

The  Civil  Station  of  Wadhwan^  on 
which  the  rly.  sta.  is  built,  is  a 
plot  of  land  rented  by  Government  in 
perpetuity  from  the  Wadhwan  state, 
for  the  location  of  the  establishments 
necessary  for  the  administration  of  the 
N.E.  portion  of  Kattywar.  A  small 
town  has  sprung  up  close  to  the  rail- 
way station. 

The  only  institution  of  specialinterest 
in  the  place  is  the  Talukdari  Schooly 
where  the  sons  of  Girassias^  or  land- 
owners, are  educated  when  their  parents 
are  unable  to  atford  the  heavy  cost  of 
sending  them  to  the  Rajkumar  or 
Princes'  College  at  Rajkot.  In  many 
cases  elder  brothers  are  placed  at  the 
Rajkumar  College,  and  the  younger  at 
the  Talukdari  School. 

The  Province  of  Kattywar  (or  Kathi- 
awad)  which  is  now  entered,  exists  imder 
circumstances  quite  exceptional.  It 
consists  of  187  separate  states,  ranging 
in  extent  from  considerable  tracts  of 
country,  with  chiefs  enjoying  great  exc- 


ROUTE  7.      WADHWAN  CITY 


153 


eutive  freedom,  to  mere  village  lands, 
necessarily  states  only  in  name.  Almost 
without  exception  the  capitals  of  these 
states  are  places  of  interest,  but  there 
is  no  space  in  this  work  to  describe 
them. 

For  pm-poses  of  administration  the 
Province  is  divided  into  four  PrantSy  or 
divisions. 

The  arduous  task  of  administering 
this  Province  is  entrusted  to  a  Political 
Agent  who  resides  at  Rajkot,  and  has 
assistants  distributed  through  the 
country. 

Everywhere  in  Kattywar  the  travel- 
ler will  remark  long  lines  of  paliasy 
or  memorial  stones,  peculiar  to  this 
Province,  on  which  men  are  usually 
represented  as  riding  on  a  very  large 
Korse,  whilst  women  nave  a  wheel  below 
them  to  indicate  that  they  used  a 
carriage. 

A  woman's  arm  and  hand  indicate 
here,  as  in  other  parts  of  India,  a  monu 
ment  to  a  lady  who  committed  sati. 

Proceeding  S.  by  the  Bhaunagar 
Gondal  Railway,  the  river  is  crossed 
close  to  the  station. 

At  B3  m.  Wadhwan  City  stais  reached, 
The  town  wall  is  c/f  stone  and  in  good 
order.  Towards  the  centre,  on  the  N. 
wall,  is  the  ancient  temple  of  Banik 
Devi.  She  was  a  beautiful  girl,  bom 
in  the  Junagadh  territory  when  Sidh 
Raja  was  reigning  at  Patan,  and  was 
betrothed  to  him.  But  Ra  Kheugar, 
who  then  ruled  Junagadh,  carried  her 
off  and  married  her,  which  caused  a 
deadly  feud  between  him  and  Sidh  Raja, 
whose  troops  marched  to  Junagadh. 
Khengar  was  betrayed  by  two  of  his 
kinsmen,  and  was  slain  by  Sidh  Raja 
and  his  fortress  taken.  The  conqueror 
wanted  to  marry  Ranik  Devi,  but  she 
performed  scUij  and  Sidh  Raja  raised 
this  temple  to  her  memory. 

The  temple  bears  marks  of  extreme 
old  age,  the  stone  being  much  worn  and 
corroded,  and  all  but  the  tower  is  gone. 
1  Inside  is  a  stone  with  tlie  effigy  in 
I  relief  of  Ranik  Devi,  and  a  smaller  one 
I  with  a  reoresentation  of  Ambaji.  N. 
of  this  temple,  and  close  to  the  city 
wall,  is  a  sati  stone  dated  1519.  Close 
to  the  Lakhupol  Gate  is  a  well  with 


steps,  ascribed  to  one  Madhava,  who 
lived  in  1294  a.d. 

The  Palace  is  near  the  centre  of  the 
town,  has  four  stories,  and  is  72  ft. 
high.  It  stands  in  a  court  facing  the 
entrance,  on  the  right  of  which  is  a 
building  called  the  Mandwa,  where 
assemblies  take  place  at  marriages. 

96  m.  Limbdi  sta.  Chief  town  of 
the  cotton-producing  state  of  that  name. 
Pop.  13,000.  A  well-cared-for  place, 
very  handsome  palace. 

126  m.  Botad  sta.  Frontier  of  the 
Bhaunagar  state. 

152  m.  Dhola  junc.  sta.(R.)  Here  the 
line  turns  W.  to  JDhoraji  and  Porbandar, 
and  IJ.  to  Bhaunagar,  passing  at 

165  m.  a  little  N.  of  Son^,  3^^  the 
residence  of  the  Assistant  Political 
Agent  for  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
Province. 

[Ezcursion  to  Palitana  and  the 
Shetrunjee  (or  Satraojaya)  Hills. 

(Arrangements  for  a  conveyance  can 
be  made,  by  applying  to  the  Dep.  Assist. 
Polit.  Agent  at  Songad.  No  public  con- 
veyances can  be  depended  upon.) 

Palitana,  s^c  about  15  m.S.  of  Songad, 
the  latter  part  of  the  road  over  a  barren 
country  between  low  rocky  hills,  is  the 
residence  of  the  chief,  and  is  much  en- 
riched by  the  crowds  of  pilgrims  who 
reside  in  it  during  their  visit  to  the 
Holy  MountaiUj  the  site  of  some  of  the 
most  famous  Jain  temples  in  India. 

The  distance  from  Palitana  to  the 
foot  of  Satrunjaya,  or  the  Holy  Moun- 
tain, is  1^  m.  The  road  is  level,  with 
a  good  water  supply,  and  shaded  by 
trees.  The  ascent  begins  with  a  wide 
flight  of  steps,  guarded  on  either  side 
by  a  statue  of  an  elephant.  The  hill- 
side is  in  many  places  excessively  steep, 
and  the  mode  of  conveyance  is  the  doli, 
a  seat  or  tray  18  in.  square,  slung  from 
two  poles  and  carried  by  four  men. 
Few  of  the  higher -class  pilgrims  are 
able  to  make  the  ascent  on  foot,  so- there 
is  an  ample  supply  of  dolis  and  bearets. 

Satrunjaya  or  Shatrunjaya  hill  is 
truly  a  city  of  temples,  for,  except  a 
few  tanks,  there  is  nothing  else  within 
the  gates,  and  there  is  a  cleanliness 


154 


ROUTE  7.       AHHEDABAD  TO  SOMKATH 


India 


withal,  about  every  sauare  and  pass- 
age, porch  and  hall,  tnat  is  itself  no 
mean  source  of  pleasure.  The  silence 
too  is  striking.  Now  and  then  in  the 
mornings  you  hear  a  bell  for  a  few 
seconds,  or  the  beating  of  a  drum  for  as 
short  a  time,  and  on  holidays  chants 
from  the  larger  temples  meet  your  ear  ; 
but  generally  during  the  after-part  of 
the  day  the  only  sounds  are  those  of 
vast  flocks  of  pigeons  that  fly  about 
spasmodically  from  the  roof  of  one 
temple  to  that  of  another.  Paroquets 
and  squirrels,  doves  and  ringdoves 
abound,  and  peacocks  are  occasionally 
met  with  on  the  outer  walls.  The  top 
of  the  hill  consists  of  two  ridges,  each 
about  360  yds.  long,  with  a  valley  be- 
tween. Each  of  these  ridges,  and  the 
two  large  enclosures  that  fiU  the  valley, 
are  surrounded  by  massive  battlemented 
walls  fitted  for  defence.  The  buildings 
on  both  ridges  again  are  divided  into 
separate  enclosures  called  ^iz^,general]y 
containing  one  principal  temple,  with 
varying  numbers  of  smaller  ones.  Each 
of  these  enclosures  is  protected  by  strong 
gates  and  walls,  and  all  gates  are  care- 
fully closed  at  sundown. 

No  attempt  is  made  to  describe  the 
shrines  in  detail;  their  general  char- 
acter is  so  often  repeated  that  it  would 
only  be  possible  to  do  so  with  the  aid 
of  profuse  illustrations.  The  area  en- 
closed on  the  top  is  small  enough  for 
any  one  of  ordinary  activity  to  see  all 
over  it  in  the  course  of  a  two  hours'  visit. 

There  is  one  gate  leading  into  the 
enclosure,  but  there  are  19  gates  within,' 
leading  to  the  19  chief  Pagodas.  Not 
far  from  the  Eam-pol  (pol  means  gate) 
is  a  resting-place  used  by  persons  of  dis- 
tinction, with  a  toleraWe  room  sur- 
rounded by  open  arches. 

James  Fergusson  says : — 

**The  grouping  together  of  these 
temples  into  what  may  be  called  *  Cities 
of  Temples,'  is  a  peculiarity  which  the 
Jains  practised  to  a  greater  extent  than 
the  followers  of  any  other  religion  in 
India.  The  Buddhists  grouped,  their 
stupas  and  viharas  near  and  around 
sacred  spots,  as  at  Sanchi,  Manikyala, 
or  in  Peshawur,  and  elsewhere ;  but 
they  were  scattered,  and  each  was  sup- 
posed to  have  a  special  meaning,  or  to 


mark  some  sacred  spot.  The  Hindus 
also  grouped  their  temples,  as  at  Bhuvan- 
eshwar  or  Benares,  in  great  numbers 
together ;  but  in  all  cases  because,  so 
far  as  we  know,  these  were  the  centres  of 
a  population  who  believed  in  the  gods 
to  whom  the  temples  were  dedicated, 
and  wanted  them  for  the  purposes  of 
their  worship.  Neither  of  these  re- 
ligions, however,  possesses  such  a  group 
of  temples,  for  instance,  as  that  at 
Satrunjaya,  in  Guzerat.  It  covers  a  very 
large  space  of  ground,  and  its  shrines 
are  scattered  by  hundreds  over  the  sum- 
mits of  two  extensive  hills  and  in  the 
valley  between  them.  The  larger  ones 
are  situated  in  tuksj  or  separate  enclos- 
ures, surrounded  hj  high  fortified  walls ; 
the  smaller  ones  Ime  the  silent  streets. 
It  is  a  city  of  the  gods,  and  meant  for 
them  only,  and  not  intended  for  the 
use  of  mortals. 

**  All  the  peculiarities  of  Jain  archi- 
tecture are  found  in  a  more  marked 
degree  at  Palitana  than  at  almost  any 
other  known  place,  and,  fortunately  for 
the  student  of  the  style,  extending 
through  all  the  ages  during  which  it 
flourished.  Someofthetemplesareasold 
as  the  11th  century,  and  they  are  spread 
pretty  evenly  over  all  the  intervening 
time  down  to  the  present  century." 

James  Burgess  in  his  report  gives  the 
following  general  description : — 

**  At  tne  foot  of  the  ascent  there  are 
some  steps  with  many  little  canopies 
or  cells,  1^  ft.  or  3  ft.  square,  open 
only  in  front,  and  each  having  in  its 
floor  a  marble  slab  carved  with  the 
representation  of  the  soles  of  two  feet 
{chcuran)f  very  flat  ones,  and  generally 
with  the  toes  all  of  one  length.  A 
little  behind,  where  the  ball  of  the 
great  toe  ought  to  be,  there  is  a 
diamond-shaped  mark  divided  into  four 
smaller  figures  by  two  cross  lines,  from 
the  end  of  one  of  which  a  curved  line 
is  drawn  to  the  front  of  the  foot 

"The  path  is  paved  with  rough 
stones  all  the  way  up,  only  interrupted 
here  and  there  by  regular  flights  of 
steps.  At  frequent  intervals  also  there 
are  rest-houses,  more  pretty  at  a  dis- 
tance than  convenient  for  actual  use, 
but  still  deserving  of  attention.  Hiffh 
up,  we  come  to  a  small  temple  of  the 


BOUTB  7.      EXCURSION  TO  VALABHIPUR 


156 


Hindu  monkey  god,  Hanuman,  the 
image  bedaubed  with  vermilion  in 
ultra-barbaric  style.  At  this  point  the 
path  bifurcates  to  the  right  leading  to 
the  northern  peak,  and  to  the  left  to 
the  valley  between,  and  through  it  to 
the  southern  summit.  A  little  higher 
up,  on  the  former  route,  is  the  shrine 
of  Hengar,  a  Mussulman  ^r,  so  that 
Hindu  and  Moslem  alike  contend  for 
the  representation  of  their  -creeds  on 
this  sacred  hill  of  the  Jains. 

**0n  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  the  view  that  presents  itself 
irom  the  top  of  the  walls  is  magnificent 
in  extent;  a  splendid  setting  for  the 
unique  picture.  To  the  E.  the  pros- 
pect extends  to  the  Gulf  of  Cambay 
near  Gogo  and  Bhaunagar  ;  to  the  N.  it 
is  bounded  by  the  granite  range  of 
Sihor  and  the  Chamardi  peak  ;  to  the 
N.W.  and  W.  the  plain  extends  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  From  W. 
to  E.,  like  a  silver  ribbon  across  the 
foreground  to  the  S.,  winds  the  Satrun- 
jaya  river,  which  the  eye  follows  until 
it  is  lost  between  the  Talaja  and  Kho- 
kara  Hills  in  the  S.W.] 

[Excursion  to  Valabhipur. 
The  antiquarian  who  is  not  pressed 
for  time  may  care  from  Songad  to  visit 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city  of  Vala- 
bhipur, which  is  nearlv  identical  with 
the  modern  town  of  Walah,  and  is  12  m. 
distant  by  road.  The  authorities  at 
Songad  will  always  arrange  the  journey. 
Valabhipur  was  perhaps  as  old  as  Rome, 
and  was  the  capital  of  all  this  part  of 
India.  The  present  town  (under  6000 
inhab.)  is  the  capital  of  one  of  the 
small  Kattywar  states.  It  has  been 
very  much  neglected.  There  are  scarcely 
any  architectural  remains  at  Walah, 
but  old  foundations  are  discovered,  and 
sometimes  coins,  copper  plates,  mud 
seals,  beads,  and  household  images  have 
been  found  in  some  abundance.  The 
rains  can  be  traced  over  a  large  area  of 
jungle.] 

Resuming  the  journey  from  Songad 
to  Bhaunagar, 

90  m.  Sihor  sta.  D.B.  This  was 
at  one  time  the  capital  of  this  state. 
The  town,  well  situated  1^  m.  S.  of 


the  rly.,  has  some  interesting  Hindu 
Temples. 

103  m.  Bhannagar.  30c  The  city  (of 
60,000  inhab.,  founded  1723)  stands 
on  a  tidal  creek  that  runs  into  the 
Gulf  of  Cambay.  The  head  of  the 
Gulf  above  this  creek  is  silting  up  so 
i-apidly  that  it  is  very  diflScult  to  main- 
tain the  necessary  depth  of  water  for 
native  trading  vessels  and  coasting 
steamers.  The  Bhaunagar  state  has 
from  its  first  connection  with  the 
British  Government  been  administered 
by  men  of  intelligence,  and  the  town 
will  be  found  a  most  pleasing  sample  of 
the  results  of  native  Indian  government 
going  hand  in  hand  with  European 
progress.  The  staple  export  is  cotton. 
There  are  no  interesting  ruins,  but 
abundance  of  very  handsome  modem 
buildings  on  Indian  models,  water 
works,  reservoirs,  and  gardens  ;  and  at 
the  port  will  be  seen  an  intelligent 
adoption  of  modern  mechanical  im- 
provements. 

The  traveller,  if  he  proposes  to  visit 
Junagadh,  Somnath,  Porbandar,  or 
any  places  in  the  W.,  must  return  to 
Dhoia  jwrvc,  and  change  there.  There  is 
nothing  to  detain  him  until  he  reaches 

Jetalsar  junc.  sta.  (R.)  162  m.  from 
Wadhwan.  This  place  is  the  residence 
of  the  Assist.  Political  Agent  for  the 
S.  or  Sorath  division  of  the  Province 
of  Kattywar.  Here  the  line  branches 
(1)  S.  to  Verawal  for  Somnath,  (2)  W. 
to  Porbaiidar,  p.  162,  and  (3)  N.  to 
Bajkot,  Vavikaner  and  Wadhwan^  p. 
166. 

(1)  Jetalsar  to  Verawal, 
16.  m.  (from  Jetalsar),  Junagadh  (the 
old  fort)  sta.,  a^c  D.B.,  W.  of  the  town, 
opposite  a  modern  gateway,  called  the 
Reay  Oaie;  the  capital  of  the  state,  and 
the  residence  of  the  Nawab.  Pop.  30,000. 
Situated  as  it  is  under  the  Gimar  and 
Datar  Hills,  it  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque towns  in  India,  while  in  anti- 
quity and  historical  interest  it  yields  to 
few.  The  scenery  from  the  hills  around 
is  most  pleasing,  and  the  place  has 
attractions  wanting  in  most  ancient 
Indian  towns,  which,  as  a  rule,  are  situ- 
ated in  uninteresting  plains.  There  \s 
a  great  deal  of  game  in  Kattywar,  and 


156 


ROUTE  7.       AHMEDABAD  TO  80MNATH 


India 


specially  in  the  Gir,  the  large  unculti- 
vated tract  to  the  S.E.  of  Junagadh  ; 
but  the  Gir  is  very  unhealthy  in  the 
early  part  of  the  autumn,  and  again  at 
the  beginning  of  the  rains. 

The  fortifications  of  the  present  to\\Ti 
were  all  built  by  the  Mohammedans 
after  the  capture  of  the  place  by  Sultan 
Mahmud  Bigadah,  of  Guzerat,  about 
1472.  The  NawaVs  Palace  is  a  fine 
modernised  building.  In  front  of  it  is 
a  good  circle  of  shops  called  the  Mahabat 
Circle.  The  Arts  College  was  designed 
and  built  by  a  local  architect,  and  was 
opened  by  Lord  Curzon  in  Nov.  1900. 

The  Tombs  of  the  Nawabs  are  highly 
finished  buildings.  Fergusson  says: 
"There  is  a  cemetery  at  Junagadh 
where  there  exists  a  group  of  tombs  all 
erected  within  this  century,  some  within 
the  last  20  or  30  years,  which  exhibit, 
more  nearly  than  any  others  I  am  ac- 
quainted with,  the  forms  towards  which 
the  style  was  tending.  The  style  is  not 
without  a  certain  amount  of  elegance 
in  detail.  The  tracery  of  the  windows 
is  executed  with  precision  and  appropri- 
ateness." Entering  the  enclosure  by 
the  N.  gate,  the  tomb  of  Bahadur  Khan 
II.  is  in  front  on  the  1.,  next  to  it  the 
tomb  of  Hamed  Khan  II.,  and  on  its 
1.  that  of  Ladli  Bu,  a  lady  whose  mar- 
riage, and  the  influence  she  gained, 
caused  no  slight  difficulty  to  this  state, 
and  no  little  trouble  in  the  Political 
Agency.  Beside  these  is  the  tomb  of 
Nawab  Mohobat  Khan,  in  Saracenic 
style,  and  finely  carved.  ^  m.  beyond 
the  N.  gate  of  the  town  is  the  Sakar 
Bagh,  a  well  laid-out  garden  that  be- 
longs to  the  Vazir.  There  is  a  two- 
storied  villa,  surrounded  by  a  moat  full 
of  water.  About  50  yds.  from  the  house 
is  a  menagerie,  in  which  are  panthers, 
deer,  etc.  In  a  still  finer  garden  at  the 
S.  of  the  town,  the  SarcUr  Bagh,  are 
kept  a  number  of  lions  and  lionesses 
from  the  Gir  forest.  There  are  no 
tigers  in  the  Kattywar  peninsula,  but 
up  to  the  middle  of  the  present  century 
lions  inhabited  all  the  large  jungles, 
and  were  shot  in  the  Choteyla  Hills  E.  of 
Rajkot.  Now  the  animal  is  confined  to 
the  Gir.  The  lion  is  in  no  way  inferior 
to  the  African  species,  although  the  mane 
is  not  so  large.  The  Gir  lion  is  not  a  man- 


eater  usually,  but  Col.  J.  W.  Watson 
has  heard  of  one  or  two  well-authenti- 
cated instances  of  his  killing  men. 

The  soft  sandstone  which  everywhere 
underlies  Junagadh  is  an  interesting 
study.  Formed  apparently  in  very  shal- 
low water,  it  shows  on  all  sides  compli- 
cated lines  of  stratification.  The  faciUty 
with  which  itisworked  may  be  one  reason 
why  it  has  been  largely  excavated  into 
cave-dwellings  in  Buddhist  times. 

The  Caves. — In  the  N.  part  of  the 
town  enclosure,  near  the  old  telegraph 
office,  is  the  group  called  the  Kkapra 
Kkodia.  These  caves  appear  to  have 
been  a  monastery,  and  bear  the  cogniz- 
ance of  the  then  ruling  race,  a  winged 
griffin  or  lion.  They  appear  to  have 
been  two  or  three  stories  high.  They 
are,  however,  excavated  in  good  building 
stone,  and  the  modern  quarrymen  have 
been  allowed  to  encroach  and  injure 
them  ;  the  lower  ones  have  never  been 
systematically  cleared  out.  The  most 
interesting  caves  of  all  are  situated  in 
the  Uparkot,  about  50  yds.  N.  of  the 
great  mosque.  They  are  now  closed  by 
an  iron  gate.  They  consist  of  two 
stories,  the  lower  chambers  being  11 
ft.  high.  Mr.  Burgess  says:  "Few 
bases  could  be  found  anywhere  to  excel 
in  beauty  of  design  and  richness  of 
carving  those  of  the  six  principal 
pillars. "  Inside  the  Waghesh  wari  Gate, 
through  which  theGirnar  is  approached, 
are  the  caves  known  by  the  name  of 
Bawa  Fiara^  a  comparatively  modem 
Hindu  ascetic  who  is  said  to  have  resided 
in  them. 

The  Uparkot,  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
city,  used  as  a  jail  until  1858,  is 
now  practically  deserted.  It  was  the 
citadel  of  the  old  Hindu  princes,  and  is 
probably  the  spot  from  whence  Junagadh 
derives  its  name.  Permission  to  visit 
it  must  be  asked.  Without  presenting 
any  very  special  features  to  describe,  the 
Uparkot  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of 
old  forts.  The  parapets  on  the  E. ,  where 
the  place  is  commanded  by  higher 
ground,  have  been  raised  at  least  three 
times  to  give  cover  against  the  in- 
creasingly longrangeof  projectiles.  The 
views  from  the  walls  are  delightful. 
Here  were  quartered  the  lieutenants  of 
the  great  Asoka  (250  B.C.),  and,  later, 


GIRNAR, 


ScaJeof  Mies 


fi^^tiy 


1.  Wagheshwari  Oftte. 

2.  Aafiki'3  Stone. 

4.  Temple  of  Daiiiwdar. 

5.  ,,      ,t    Bavaijuth. 
d        t,      ,t    Bhavanatb. 
7.  ChadA-ui-wao  Well. 

a  Wagheahvrari  Templa 

9.  BhairoTlmmpa. 

10.  naomuk!  Temple, 

11.  AiTtba  Ouva  Temple. 


,    12.  Malipflmb  Khtmd. 
'    13.  Datibiri. 

14  HAthI  pagla  Klnmd. 

IS,  Sf-a^wftu  Temple, 

II j.  IfarttJiimdlijira  Kluiiid  and  Temple. 
I    17*  KamRndal  Temple. 

IS.  Jiakti  ambli. 

11+,  >Ulbela. 

20.  SuKij  Khniid. 

21.  ^torkbarla. 

.    2%  Bawflha  Irladhi, 


To  Ms  p.  157. 


ROUTB  7.      JUNAOADH — GIRNAR 


157 


tJiose  of  the  Gupta  kings.  The  entrance 
is  beyond  the  town,  in  the  W.  wall,  and 
consists  of  three  gateways,  one  inside 
the  other.  The  fort  walls  here  are  from 
60  to  70  ft  high,  forming  a  massive 
cluster  of  buildings.  The  inner  gate- 
way, a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  Hindu 
SToran,  has  been  topped  by  more  recent 
Mohammedan  work,  but  the  general 
effect  is  stUl  good  and,  with  the 
approach  cut  through  the  solid  rock, 
impressive.  On  the  rampart  above 
the  gate  is  an  iascription  of  Manda- 
lika  V.  dated  1460.  Proceeding  150 
yds.  to  the  left,  through  a  grove  of 
mtaphal  (custard  apples),  you  come  to 
a  huge  10  in.  -bore  camion  of  bell-metal, 
17  ft.  long  and  4  ft.  7  in.  round  at  the 
mouth.  This  gun  was  brought  from 
Dio,  where  it  was  left  by  the  Turks. 
There  is  an  Arabic  inscription  at  the 
muzzle,  which  may  be  translated :  * '  The 
order  to  make  this  cannon,  to  be  used 
in  the  service  of  the  Almighty,  was 
given  by  the  Sultan  of  Arabia  and 
Persia,  Sultan  Sulaiman,  son  of  Salim 
Khan.  May  his  triumph  be  glorified, 
to  punish  the  enemies  of  the  State  and 
of  the  Faith,  in  the  capital  of  Egypt, 
1631."  At  the  breech  is  inscribed, 
"The  work  of  Muhammad,  the  son  of 
Hamzah."  Another  large  cannon  called 
Ghudanal,  also  from  Diu,  in  the  southern 
portion  of  the  fort,  is  13  ft.  long,  and  has 
a  muzzle  14  in.  diameter.  Near  this 
is  the  Jonima  Musjid,  evidently 
constructed  from  the  materials  of  a 
Hindu  temple.  Mr.  Burgess  says  it 
was  built  by  Mahmud  Begadah.  One 
plain,  slim  minaret  remains  standing, 
bnt  the  mosque  is  almost  a  complete 
ruin.  The  ascent  to  the  terraced  roof 
is  by  a  good  staircase  outside. 

The  Tomb  of  Nuri  Shah,  close  to  the 
mosque,  is  ornamented  with  fluted 
cupolas,  and  a  most  peculiar  carving 
over  the  door.  There  are  two  Wells  in 
the  Uparkot — the  Adi  Chadi,  said  to 
have  been  built  in  ancient  times  by 
the  slave  girls  of  the  Chudasama  rulers, 
is  descended  by  a  long  flight  of  steps 
(the  sides  of  the  descent  show  the  most 
remarkable  overlappings  and  changes 
of  lie  in  the  strata,  for  which  alone  it 
is  worth  a  visit  to  any  one  with  geo- 
;    lozical  tastes) ;  and  the  NaughaUf  cut 


to  a  great  depth  in  the  soft  rock,  and 
with  a  wonderful  circular  staircase. 

There  is%  fine  dharmsala  belonging 
to  the  goldsmiths  near  the  Waghesh- 
wari  Gate. 

The  mountain  Gimar  is  the  great 
feature  of  Junagadh,  and  the  Jain 
temples  upon  it  are  amongst  the  most 
ancient  in  the  country.  It  is  3666  ft. 
high,  and  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
mountains  in  India.  From  the  city  of 
Junagadh  only  the  top  of  it  can  be  seen, 
as  it  has  in  front  of  it  lower  hills,  of 
which  Jogniya,  or  Laso  Pawadi,  2627 
ft.,  Lakshman  Tekri,  Bensla,  2290  ft. 
high,  and  Datar,  2779  ft.  high,  are  the 
principal.  Girnar  was  anciently  called 
Kaivata  or  Ujjayanta,  sacred  amongst 
the  Jains  to  Nemmath,  the  22d  Tirthan- 
kar,  and  doubtless  a  place  of  pilgrimage 
before  the  days  of  Asoka,  250  b.c. 

The  traveller,  in  order  to  reach  Gimar, 
will  pass  through  the  "Wagheshwari  Gate, 
which  is  close  to  the  Uparkot.  At 
about  200  yds.  from  the  gate,  to  the 
right  of  the  road,  is  the  Temple  of 
Wagheshwari,  which  is  joined  to  the 
road  by  a  causeway  about  160  yds. 
long.  In  front  of  it  is  a  modem  temple, 
three  stories  high,  very  ugly,  flat- 
roofed,  and  quite  plain.  About  a  fur- 
long beyond  this  is  a  stone  bridge,  and 
just  beyond  it  the  famous  Asoka  Stone. 
It  is  a  round  boulder  of  granite,  measur- 
ing roughly  20  ft.  x30  ft,  and  is 
covered  with  inscriptions,  which  prove 
on  examination  to  be  14  Edicts  of 
Asoka  (250  B.o.)^  Nearly  identical 
inscriptions  have  been  found  at  Dhauli, 
near  Peshawur,  and  elsewhere.  The 
character  is  Pali. 

On  leaving  Asoka's  Stone,  cross  the 
handsome  bridge  over  the  Sonarekha, 
which  here  forms  a  fine  sheet  of  water, 
then  pass  a  number  of  temples,  at 
first  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river  and 
then  on  the  rt.,  where  Jogis  go  about 
entirely  naked,  to  the  largest  of  the 
temples  dedicated  to  Damo£u:,  a  name 
of  Krishna,  from  Dam,  a  rope,  because 
at  this  spot  his  mother  in  vain  at- 
tempted to  confine  him  with  a  rope 
when  a  child.     The  reservoir  at  this 

1  See  Life  of  John  Wilson,  F.R.S.,  by  Dr.  G. 
Smith,  for  picture  and  account  of  the  stone ; 
or  Burgess,  Second  Archceol.  Report. 


158 


ROUTE  7.       AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


Indk 


place  is  accounted  very  sacred.  The 
path  is  now  through  a  wooded  valley, 
with  some  fine  Indian  fig  If  ees.  Near 
a  cluster  of  them  is  an  old  shrine  called 
Bhavanath,  a  name  of  Shiva.  There 
are  a  number  of  large,  monkeys  here, 
who  come,  on  being  called.      Unless 


well  called  the  Chadd-ni-wao.  The 
paved  way  begins  just  beyond  this  and 
continues  for  two-thirds  of  the  ascent, 
and  may  be  divided  into  three  parts : 
at  the  end  of  the  first  the  first  rest- 
house,  Chpdia-paraba,  is*reached,  480 
ft  above  the  plain.     The  second  halt- 


Temple  of  Nimnath,  Gimar. 


the  traveller  be  a  very  good  climber, 
he  will  do  well  to  get  into  a  doli,  for 
which  he  will  pay  3  or  4  rs.  according 
to  tariff.  A  long  ridge  runs  up  from 
the  W.,  and  culminates  in  a  rugged 
scarped  rock,  on  the  top  of  which  are 
the  temples.     Close  to  the  Mandir  is  a 


ing-place  is  Dholi-deri,  1000  ft.  above 
the  plain.  There  the  ascent  becomes 
more  difficult,  winding  under  the  face 
of  the  precipice  to  the  third  rest-house, 
1400  ft.  up.  So  far  there  is  nothmg 
very  trying  to  any  one  with  an  ordin- 
arily steady  brain.     But  after  that  the 


ROUTE  7.      JX7NAGADH — GIRNAB 


169 


path  turns  to  the  right  along  the  edge 
of  a  precipice,  and  consists  of  steps  cut 
in  the  rock,  and  so  narrow  that  the 
doli  grazes  the  scarp,  which  rises  per- 
pendicularly 200  ft.  above  the  travel- 
ler. On  ther  right  is  seen  the  lofty 
mountain  of  Data/r,  covered  with  low 
jungle.  At  about  1500  ft  there  is  a 
stone  dharmsala,  and  firom  this  there 
is  a  fine  view  of  the  rock  called 
Bhairav-l'hampa,  which  means  **the 
terrific  leap. ''  It  was  so  called  because 
devotees  used  to  cast  themselves  from 
its  top,  falling  1000  ft  or  more. 

At  2370  ft  above  Junagadh  the  gate 
of  the  enclosure  known  as  the  Deva 
Kota,  or  Ra  Ehengar's  Palace,  is  reached. 
On  entering  the  gate,  the  large  enclosure 
of  the  temples  is  on  the  left,  while  to 
the  right  is  the  old  granite  temple  of 
Mem  Sing,  Bhoja  Rajah  of  Cutch,  and 
farther  on  the  much  larger  one  of 
Vastupala  (see  below).  Built  into  the 
wall  on  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  an 
inscription  in  Sanscrit.  Some  16  Jain 
temples  here  form  a  sort  of  fort  on  the 
led^e  at  the  top  of  the  great  cliff,  but 
gtiU  600  ft.  below  the  summit  The 
largest  temple  is  that  of  Neminatha  (see 
pluL,  p.  158)  standing  in  a  quadrangular 
court  195  X  130  ft.  It  consists  of  two 
halls  (with  two  porches,  called  by  the 
Hindus  mandapaTns),  and  the  shrine, 
which  contains  a  large  black  image  of 
Neminath,  the  22d  Tirthankar,  with 
massive  gold  ornaments  and  jewels. 
Bound  the  shrine  is  a  passage  with 
many  images  in  white  marble.  Be- 
tween the  outer  and  inner  halls  are 
two  shrines.  The  outer  hall  has  two 
small  raised  platforms  paved  with  slabs 
of  yellow  stone,  covered  with  repre- 
sentations of  feet  in  pairs,  which  repre- 
sent the  2452  feet  of  the  first  disciples. 
On  the  W.  of  this  is  a  porch  overhang- 
ing the  perpendicular  scarp.  On  two 
of  the  pillars  of  the  mandapam  are  in- 
scriptions dated  1276,  1281,  and  1278, 
— dates  of  restoration,  when  Burgess 
says  it  was  covered  with  a  coating  of 
chunam,  and  '^  adorned  with  coats  of 
whitewash  "  within.  The  enclosure  is 
nearly  surrounded  inside  by  70  cells, 
each  enshrining  a  marble  image,  with 
a  covered  passage  in  front  of  them 
lighted  by  a  perforated  stone  screen. 


The  principal  entrance  was  originally 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  court,  but  it  is 
now  closed,«uid  the  entrance  from  the 
court,  in  Khengar's  Palace,  is  that  now 
used.  There  is  a  passage  leading  into 
a  low  dark  temple,  with  granite  pillars 
in  lines.  Opposite  the  entrance  is  a 
recess  contaming  two  large  black  im- 
ages ;  in  the  back  of  the  recess  is  a  lion 
rampant,  and  over  it  a  crocodile  in 
bas-relief.  Behind  these  figures  is  a 
room  from  which  is  a  descent  into  a 
cave,  with  a  lar^e  white  marble  image, 
an  object  of  tne  most  superstitious 
veneration  by  the  Jains,  which  the 
priests  usually  try  to  conceal.  It  has 
a  slight  hollow  in  the  shoulder,  said  to 
be  caused  by  water  dropping  from  the 
ear,  whence  it  was  called  AmijJiera, 
**  nectar  drop."  In  the  N.  porch  are 
inscriptions  which  state  that  in  Samwat 
1215  certain  Thakors  completed  the 
shrine,  and  buHt  the  Temple  of  Ambika. 
After  leavingthis,  there  are  three  temples 
to  the  left.  That  on  the  S.  side  contains 
a  colossal  image  of  Bishabha  Deva, 
the  1st  Tirthankar,  exactly  like  that 
at  Satruniaya,  called  Bhim-Padam. 
On  the  throne  of  this  image  is  a 
slab  of  yellow  stone  carved  in  1442, 
with  figures  of  the  24  Tirthankars. 
Opposite  this  temple  is  a  modem  one 
to  Panchabai.  W.  of  it  is  a  lu'ge 
temple  called  Malakavisi,  sacred  to 
Parshwanath.  N.  again  of  this  is 
another  temple  of  Parshwanath,  which 
contains  a  large  white  marble  image 
canopied  by  a  cobra,  whence  it  is  called 
Sheshphanif  **an  arrangement  not  un- 
frequently  found  in  the  S.  but  rare  in 
the  N."  (Fergusson).  It  bears  a  date 
=  1803.  The  last  temple  to  the  N.  is 
Eumarapala's,  which  has  a  long  open 
portico  on  the  W.,  and  appears  to  have 
been  destroyed  by  the  Mohammedans, 
and  restored  in  1824  by  Hansraja  Jetha. 
These  temples  are  along  the  W.  face  of 
the  hill,  and  are  all  enclosed.  Outside 
to  the  N.  is  the  Bhima  Kunda,  a  tank 
70  ft.  X  50  ft,  in  which  Hindus  bathe. 
**  Immediately  behind  the  temple  of 
Neminatha  is  the  triple  one  erected  by 
the  brothers  Tejahpala  and  Vastnpala 
(built  1177)."  The  plan  is  that  of  3 
temples  joined  togetner.  The  shrine 
has  an  image  of  Mallinath,  the  19  th 


160 


ROUTE  7.       AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


Tirthankar.  Farther  N.  is  the  temple 
of  Samprati  Baja.  This  temple  is 
probably  one  of  the  oldest#on  the  hill, 
date  1158.  Samprati  is  said  to  have 
ruled  at  Ujjain  in  the  end  of  the  3d 
cent.  B.C.,  and  to  have  been  the  son 
of  Kunala,  Asoka's  third  son.  S,  of 
this,  and  200  ft.  above  the  Jain  temples, 
is  the  Gaumukha  Shrine,  near  a  plenti- 
ful spring  of  water.  From  it  the  crest 
of  the  mountain  (3330  ft.)  is  reached  by 
a  steep  flight  of  stairs.  Here  is  an 
ancient  temple  of  Amba  Mata,  which 


or  attendant  of  the  shrine  is  seen  in 
front.  To  the  rt.  is  a  stone  platform 
surrounding  an  unusually  fine  mango 
tree,  with  a  tank  just  beyond,  and  the 
shrine  of  Datar,  a  building  30  ft.  hi^h 
with  a  fluted  cone  at  top.  Here  it  is 
necessary  to  take  off  one's  shoes.  The 
shrine  and  the  whole  place  are  very 
attractive. 

There  is  a  Leper  Asylum  near  the 
Datar  Temple  for  100  lepers  of  both 
sexes,  built  at  the  expense  of  the  Vazir 
Sahib  Bahu-ud-din.      H.R.H.  Prince 


Temple  of  Tejahpala  and  Vastupala,  Girnar. 


is  much  resorted  to  by  newly-married 
couples  of  the  Brahman  caste.  The 
bride  and  bridegroom  have  their  clothes 
tied  together,  and  attended  by  their 
male  and  female  relations,  adore  the 
goddess  and  present  cocoa-nuts  and 
other  offerings.  This  pilgrimage  is 
supposed  to  procure  for  the  couple  a 
long  continuance  of  wedded  bliss.  To 
the  E.,  not  far  off,  are  the  3  rocky 
spires  of  the  Gorakhnath,  the  Neminath 
or  Giini-dattaraya,  and  the  Kalika  Peaks. 
S.E.  of  the  Verawal  Gate  of  Juna- 
gadh  is  the  Shrine  of  Jamal  Shah  or 
Datar.  After  passing  under  a  low  arch 
near  the  city,  the  house  of  the  Mujawir 


Albert  Victor  laid  the  foundation-stone 
in  1890.  Above  it,  4  m.  in  S.E.  direc- 
tion, is  the  Datar  peak  (2779  ft.) 

On  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  a  small 
shrine,  and  a  very  beautiful  view.  The 
hill  is  held  sacred  by  Mohammedans 
and  Hindus  alike,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  a  beneficial  effect  on  lepers,  who 
repair  to  it  in  considei*able  numbers. 

61  m.  Verawal  sta.  a^  The  railway 
terminus  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city, 
close  to  the  walls,  and  about  \  m.  from 
the  lighthouse  at  the  landing-place. 
This  is  a  very  ancient  sea-port,  and 
probably  owes  its  existence  to  its  more 
celebrated  neighbour  Patau  Somna(ht 


BOUTE  7.      PATAN  SOMNATH 


161 


It  rose  into  notice  daring  the  time  of 
tiie  Guzerat  sultans,  and  in  their  reigns 
became,  untH  superseded  by  Surat,  the 
principal  port  of  embarkation  for 
kohammedan  pilgrims  to  Mecca.  It 
is  still  a  flourishing  little  seaport.  In 
the  Temple  Harsad  Mata  is  a  celebrated 
inscription  (1264),  recording  that  a 
mosi^ue  was  endowed  in  that  year,  and 
beanng  dates  in  four  different  eras. 
It  was  from  this  inscription  that  it  was 

favered  that  the  Valabhi  era  com- 
ced  in  319  a.d.,  and  the  Shri  Sing 
from  1113  A.D.  The  river  Devka 
flows  to  the  N.  of  Verawal,  and  joins 
the  sea  at  a  place  called  Dani  Bam. 
The   Jaleshvar    Temple,    about   2   m. 


Red  Sea,  Persian  Gtdf,  and  African 
coast  The  place  is  renowned  in  Hindn 
mythology,  ^t  was  here  the  Jadavs  slew 
each  other,  and  here  Krishna  was  shot 
by  the  Bhil.  In  the  Gir  forest,  inland 
from  Patau,  is  the  only  place  in  India 
where  there  are  one  or  two  separate 
communities  of  African  negroes.  Mah- 
mud  of  Ghazni  conquered  the  town  in 
1025  A.D.,  and  it  appears  that  he  left 
behind  a  Mohammedan  Governor. 
Subsequently  the  Hindus  recovered 
their  power,  but  it  was  again  cast  down 
by  Akgh  Khan  circa  1300  A.D.,  and 
the  coast  belt  or  Nagher  kingdom  con- 
quered. From  this  date  Moham- 
medan supremacy  prevailed  throughout 


Verawal  a&d  Fataa. 


1S.W.  from  the  town,  at  the  mouth  on 
the  right  bank,  is  of  great  antiquity. 
On  the  S.W.  face  of  Verawal  there  is  a 
modern  sea-wall  and  an  unfinished 
stone  pier,  with  a  lighthouse  at  the  end 
of  it.  A  large  Custom  House  has  been 
built  on  the  sea  face,  and  near  it  is  a 
dock  established  on  reclaimed  land. 

On  the  sea-shore,  nearly  3  m.  to  the 
S.£. ,  is  Patau  Sonmath,  also  known  as 
Prabhas  Patau,  or  Deva  Patau,  the 
SemeTuU  of  Marco  Polo.  The  anchor- 
ages at  Verawal  and  Patau  are  so  bad 
that  it  is  hard  to  account  for  the  un- 
doubted fact  that  from  the  earliest 
times  they  carried  on  a  trade  with  the 


the  belt,  and  from  the  reign  of  Muham- 
mad Tughlak  regular  governors  were 
appointed.  Finally,  owing  to  the  gal- 
lantry and  statesmanship  of  Diwan 
Amarji,  it  was  conquered  by  the  Nawab 
of  Junagadh  in  whose  hands  it  remains. 

About  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent 
Somnath  (with  Verawal)  had  become 
the  principal  port  of  embarkation  for 
Mohammedan  pilgrims  to  the  cities 
of  Mecca  and  Madinah,  and  this  lasted 
till  it  was  superseded  by  Surat 
Thoueh  it  is  eclipsed  now  as  far  as 
wealth  and  population  are  concerned, 
by  the  adjacent  port  of  Verawal,  it  is 
still  an  important  town. 

Proceeding  from  Verawal  to  Patan  by 


109 


BOUTS  7.      4^HXPABAD  TO  80MKATH 


Jiiiin 


Dm  roftd,  to  the  rt.  is  a  vast  burial- 
ground,  with  thousands  of  tombs,  and 
palioi.  There  are  also  buijdings  which 
well  deserve  examioation  after  the  tra- 
veller has  seen  the  city.  The  Junagadh, 
or  W.  Gate,  by  which  Patan  is  entered, 
is  a  triple  gate,  and  is  clearly  of  Hindu 
architecture.  The  centre  part  of  the 
first  division  of  the  gateway  is  very 
ancient,  and  is  shown  to  be  Hindu  by 
the  carving  of  two  elephants  on  either 
side  pouring  water  over  Lakshmi ;  but 
the  figure  of  the  goddess  is  almost 
obliterated. 

After  passing  the  second  gate  on  the 
left,  is  the  W.  wall  of  a  mosque  of  the 
time  of  Mahmud.  There  is  no  inscrip- 
tion in  it,  but  its  antiquity  is  so  credited 
lihat  the  Nawab  has  assigned  the 
revenue  of  three  villages  for  keeping  it 
in  order.  After  passing  the  third 
portal  of  the  Junagadh  Gateway,  there 
are  four  stones  on  the  right  hand,  of 
which  two  have  Guzerati,  and  two  San- 
scrit inscriptions.  Driving  on  straight 
through  the  bazaar,  which  is  very 
narrow,  and  has  quaint  old  houses  on 
either  side,  the  Jumma  Mu^id  is 
reached.  The  entrance  is  by  a  porch, 
which  has  been  a  mandir  iu  front  of  a 
Hindu  temple. 

The  most  interesting  part  of  this  very 
ancient  building  is,  that  in  each  of  the 
four  corners  is  a  carving  of  two  human 
figures,  with  the  Bo  tree  between  them. 
A  low  door  in  the  "W.  side  of  the  porch 
leads  into  the  court  of  the  mosque, 
which  is  much  ruined  ;  it  has  been 
deserted  for  25  years,  and  inhabited  by 
Moslem  fishermen,  who  dry  their  fish 
in  it. 

To  reach  the  Old  Temple  of  Som- 
nath  it  is  necessary  to  drive  through 
the  bazaar  of  Patan  and  turn  to  the 
right.  The  temple  is  close  to  the  sea. 
Fergusson  considers  that  it  was  prob- 
ably never  a  large  temple,  but  adds  that 
the  dome  of  its  porch,  which  measures 
38  ft.  across,  is  as  large  as  any  we  know 
of  its  age.  The  interior  of  the  porch  is 
even  now  in  its  ruins  very  striking. 
'*From  what  fragments  of  its  sculptured 
decorations  remain,  they  must  have 
been  of  great  beauty,  quite  equal  to 
anything  we  know  of  this  class  of  their 
age. "    It  WM,  no  doubt,  like  the  temple 


of  HflOiiiiith,  on  GImar,  muxoimdidlf 
an  enolofure  which  woild  make  lt«: 
strong  place.    Now  the  temple 


Plan  of  Temple  of  Somnath  by  J.  Buigen. 

alone,  stripped  even  of  its  marble ;  like, 
but  superior  to,  the  temples  at  Dabhoii 
and  liakkundi  There  are  three  en- 
trances to  the  porch,  and  a  corridor 
round  the  central  octagonal  spaoe, 
which  was  covered  by  the  great  dome, 
There  are  four  smaller  domes.  The 
dome  in  the  centre  is  supported  by 
eight  pillars  and  eight  arches,  and  no 
wood  seems  to  have  been  used.  The 
pillar  on  the  right  hand,  looking  from 
the  E.,  next  but  one  before  reaching 
the  adytum,  has  an  inscription,  which 
is  all  illegible  but  the  date,  Samwst 
1697  =  1640  A.D.  The  walls  on  the 
N.,  S.,  and  W.  sides  have  each  two 
handsomely  carved  niches,  in  which 
there  have  been  idols. 

The  temple  is  said  to  have  been  first 
built  of  gold  by  Somraj,  then  of  silver 
by  Ravana,  then  of  wood  by  Krishna, 
and  then  of  stone  by  Bhimdeva.  Though 
three  times  destroyed  by  the  Moham- 
medans, it  was  nevertheless  three  times 
rebuilt,  and  so  late  as  1700  A.D.  was 
still  a  place  of  great  sanctity.  Bat  in 
1706  Aurangzib  ordered  its  destruction. 


BOUIB  7.     PATAK  BOMKATR 


108 


m^  tlMTtiMnii  tmy  wiMn  to  believe 
^Mt  ibie  order  wae  carried  out 

Sultftn  Maltmnd's  celebrated  expedi- 
tion was  in  1025  a.d.  ;  he  seems  to  nave 
ttarched  with  such  rapidity,  by  way  of 
Gnzerat,  that  the  Hinda  rajas  were 
unable  to  collect  their  forces  for  its 
defence.  Thence  he  seems  to  have 
marched  upon  Somnath,  and  after  a 
sharp  fight  for  two  days  to  have  oon- 

?uered  both  the  city  and  the  temple, 
mmense  spoU  was  found  in  the  temple, 
and  after  a  short  stay  Mahmud  returned 
to  Ghazni.  It  was  on  this  occasion 
that  he  is  supposed  to  have  carried  off 
the  famous  so-called  ''Gates  of  Som- 
nath/' now  in  the  fort  at  Agra.  The 
trareller  may  at  once  dismiss  from  his 
mind  as  a  fable  that  the  gates  brought 
from  Ghazni  to  Agra  in  Lord  Ellen- 
borough's  time  were  taken  from  Som- 
nath. They  are  of  Saracenic  design, 
and  are  constructed  of  Himalayan  cedar 
(see  Agra).^  Elliot  says  that  10,000  popu- 
lated villages  were  held  by  the  temple  as 
an  endowment,  and  that  300  musicians 
and  500  dancing-girls  were  attached  to 
it  There  were  also  800  barbers  to  shave 
the  heads  of  the  pilgrims. 

The  confluence  of  the  Three  riyen, 
or  Triffenif  to  the  £.  of  the  town,  has 
been,  no  doubt,  a  sacred  spot  from 
times  of  remote  antiquity.  To  reach 
this  the  traveller  will  proceed  through 
the  E.  gate,  called  the  Nana^  or  "small," 
also  the  Sangam,  or  "confluence  gate." 
It  has  pilasters  on  either  side,  and  on 
the  capitals  figures  are  represented  issu- 
ing out  of  the  mouths  of  Makars,  a 
fiibuloud  crocodile,  which  in  Hindu 
mythology  is  the  emblem  of  the  God 
of  Love.  About  a  J  m.  E.  of  the  gate, 
outside  it,  you  come  to  a  pool  on  the 
right  hand,  called  the  Eund,  and  a 
small  building  on  the  left  called  the 
Adi  Tirth,  and  then  to  a  temple  and 
the  Tirth  of  Triveni,  where  people  are 
always  bathing.  The  stream  here  is 
from  200  to  800  yds.  broad,  and  runs 
into  the  sea.  N.  of  this,  about  200 
yds.  off,  is  the  Snraj  Handlr,  or  temple 
to  the  sun,  half  broken  down  by  Mah- 
mud, standing  on  high  ground,  and 
wondrously  old  and  curious.    Over  the 

1  There  is  a  beautiful  illustration  of  them 
Id  Tula's  Marin  Polo. 


with  a  tree  between  each  two.  Inside 
the  adytum  is  a  round  red  mark  for 
the  sun,  not  ancient ;  and  below  is  t 
figure  of  a  goddess,  also  coloured  red. 
On  the  W.  and  S.  outer  walls  are  masses 
of  carving  much  worn.  At  the  bottom 
there  is  a  frieze  of  Keshari  lions,  that 
is,  Hons  with  elephants*  trunks.  This 
temple  is  probably  of  the  same  age  as 
that  of  Somnath.  About  260  yds.  to 
the  W.  is  a  vast  tomb,  quite  plain ;  and 
below,  in  a  sort  of  (juarry,  is  a  subter- 
raneous temple,  which  is  called  Ahdi 
Shah's.  The  same  name  is  given  to 
a  mosque  with  six  cupolas  to  the  N., 
which  has  been  a  Hindu  temple. 

Returning  from  this,  and  reentering 
the  Nana  Gate,  proceed  200  yds.  to  the 
N.W.,  where  is  the  temple  built  by 
Ahalya  Bai,  to  replace  the  ancient  Som- 
nath. Below  the  temple  is  another, 
reached  by  descending  22  steps.  The 
dome  of  this  subterraneous  building  is 
supported  by  16  pillars.  The  temple 
itself  is  18  ft.  sq.  It  is  of  no  interest 
except  on  account  of  its  builder,  Ahalya 
Bai 

Returning  towards  Verawal,  about  \ 
m.  outside  the  Patau  Gate  is  the  Hal 
Pari,  which  in  ancient  times  was  a 
temple  to  the  sun.  The  carving  of 
this  building  is  exquisite,  and  in  better 
preservation  than  that  of  the  temple  of 
Somnath.  In  the  centre  of  the  build- 
ing is  an  enclosure  6  ft  sq.,  in  which 
Mai  Puri,  **the  Perfect  Mother,"  is 
buried.  A  legend  is  told  about  her, 
which  alleges  that  she  brought  about 
the  siege  of  Somnath  by  Mahmud. 
The  temp]e  or  mosque,  as  the  Moslems 
have  made  it,  contains  a  mass  of  old 
Hindu  carving,  still  beautiful  though 
mutilated.  This  temple  is  a  perfect 
gem,  and  ought  to  be  visited  by  everv 
traveller.  About  300  yds.  to  the  E.  is 
a  plain  stone  enclosure  on  the  right  of 
the  road,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of 
J'afar  and  Muzaffar,  quite  plain,  but 
with  pillars  8  ft.  high  at  the  headafcone. 
Not  far  from  the  Mai  Puri  is  the  tomb 
of  Silah  Shah.  There  is  a  curious  stand 
for  lamps  here  carved  in  stone,  in  the 
shape  of  a  crown.  To  the  S.E.,  about 
50  yds.,  is  the  tomb  of  Mangroli  Shah, 
which  has  been  resto^edf    before  reach- 


164 


BOUTS  7.      AHMSDABAD  TO  SOICSTATH 


India 


ing  tlM  ihrine  yoa  dui  through  the 
porch  of  an  ancient  Hindu  tem^e. 

Not  far  from  this  spot  is  the  Bhid 
BJianjcm  Pagoda  on  the  sea -shore, 
locaDy  known  as  Bhidiyo,  very  old, 
perhaps  of  the  14th  century.  It  is  60 
ft.  high,  and  forms  a  good  mark  for 
sailors.  To  the  £.  of  the  pagoda  is  a 
clear  space,  where  Englishmen  coming 
from  Kajkot  pitch  their  tents. 

Many  coasting  steamers  call  at  Vera- 
wal,  and  a  traveller  can  go  by  sea  to 
Bombay  or  to  Porbandar,  Cutch,  or 
Karachi  If  he  desires  to  return  by 
land,  he  retraces  his  steps  to  Jetalsar 
June 

(2)  Jetalsar  to  Porbamdar. 

9  m.  Dhoraji,  an  important  com- 
mercial town,  pop.  16,000. 

79  m.,  Porbandar  terminal  sta., 
D.B.,  E.  of  the  town,  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name,  and  a  place  of  some 
interest.  It  is  identified  with  the  ancient 
city  of  SudAmpuri,  known  to  readers  of 
the  BTtagawUa,  Near  this  is  an  old 
temple  of  Sud&ma.  The  line  is  con- 
tinned  for  goods  traffic  along  the  shore 
to  the  creek  W.  of  the  town,  where  it  ter- 
minates in  a  wharf.  Here  the  traveller 
has  reached  a  very  old-world  corner, 
not  recommended  to  visitors  in  a  hurry, 
but  very  interesting  to  those  who  have 
leisure,  or  to  sportsmen.  The  coasting 
'steamers  between  Bombay  and  Kar- 
achi touch  at  Porbandar. 

[The  places  of  interest  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are — 

(a)  Shrinagar,  9  m.  N.W.  of  Porban- 
dar, believed  to  have  been  the  first 
capital  of  the  Jethwa  Rajputs.  There 
are  remains  of  an  ancient  temple  of 
the  sun. 

(6)  Miani,  a  very  ancient  seaport 
18  m.  N.W.  of  Porbandar.  To  the 
extreme  N.W.  in  the  district  of 
Okhamandal,  directly  under  the  Gaek- 
war  of  Baroda  are  some  of  the  most 
sacred  Hiindu  Temples  in  India,  e.g, 
those  at  Dwarka  ("door")  and  Beyt 
("island").  The  original  possessors 
of  the  place  were  a  warlike  tribe  of 
Rqputs,  called  "  Whagire,''  who  wfere 
notorious  pirates  up  to  the  early  part 
of  the  1 9  th  century,  and,  though  reduced 


at  that  time  by  the  Biitiih  Gorera* 
ment,  still  cling  to  their  former  tradi- 
tions by  which  each  man  believes  that 
he  is  a  prince  in  his  own  right. 

(c)  Ghaya,  a  village  2  m.  S.E  of 
Porbandar,  was  once  the  capital.  The 
old  palace  is  stiU  there. 

(d)  Bilesh/war,  S  m.  N.  of  Ranawao 
sta.,  a  small  village  E.  of  the  Baida 
Hills.  There  is  here  a  fine  temple  of 
considerable  antiquity,  and  in  good 
preservation. 

(e)  Ghumli  or  BhumXi,  is  about  12  m. 
N.  of  Bilesliwar,  or  24  m.  from  Po^ 
bandar  by  the  road  passing  W.  of  the 
Barda  Hills.     This  place  is  now  abso- 
lutely ruined  and  deserted ;  it  was  th« 
jcapital  of  the  Jethwas  when  at  the  zenith  I 
of  theirpower.    It  lies  in  a  gorge  of  the 
Barda  mils;  theruinsareofthellthor 
12th  century.     The  most  interestLog  | 
remains  are  the  Lakhota,  the  Ganesh  I 
Dehia,  the  Bampol,  the  Jeta  Wao,  and  i 
the  group   of  temples  near  the  Son  { 
Kansari  Tank,  and  some  ruins  on  the 
summit  of  the  Abapura  Hill.     It  was 
at  one  time  a  large  flourishing  city.    It  ' 
is  about  4  m.  S.  of  Bhanwar,  a  fort  he-  ' 
longing  to  the  Jam  of  Nawanagar.^        . 

40  m.  S.E.  from  Porbandar,  at  Mad'  | 

havapnr,  Krishna  is  said  to  have  been 

married.    There  is  an  Important  temple 

dedicated  to  him  there.] 

(3)  Jetalsar  to  Rajkot^  Vankaner  and 

Wadhwan, 

23  m.  Ctondal  is  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name,  and  the  residence 
of  the  chief.  It  is  a  cheerful,  well- 
cared-for  town,  with  many  handsome 
temples.  The  public  offices  are  situated 
outside  the  town  on  open  sites  sur- 
rounded by  ^dens.  The  courtyard 
of  the  palace  is  very  handsome. 

46  m.  Bajkot  sta.,30c  a  civil  and 
military  station,  the  residence  of  tiie 
Political  Agent,  and  the  headquarters 
of  the  administration. 

The  most  important  public  work  in 
Kajkot  is  the  Kaisar-i-ffind  Bridge 
over  the  Aji  river,  built  by  Mr.  S.  B. 
Booth,  whose  name  is  connected  with 
nearly  every  important  modem  build- 
ing in  the  Province.  The  total  cost 
of  the  bridge  was  117,500  rs.,  of  which 

1  Ghumlf  Is  illoBtrated  in  Borgou's  Second 
ArehcBoLM^ 


BOUTE  8.      BEWARI  OJO  FEB02Sf  TTB 


ie5 


the  Chief  of  Bhaiinagar  paid  all  but 
7500  rs.  THe  munificent  donor  of  this 
bridge  was  educated  at  the  Rajkumar 
C!ollege,  on  which  he  bestowed  100,000 
IS.  to  build  a  wing  and  a  residence 
for  the  principal,  and  further  contri- 
buted 60,000  re.  to  the  Endowment 
Fund. 

The  Bajkumar  College  deserves  a 
visit,  as  the  place  where  the  young 
princes  of  Eattywar  are  educated.  It 
was  opened  in  1870.  On  the  ground 
floor  is  a  fine  hall,  which  gives  access  to 
the  class-rooms.  Some  good  portraits 
hang  on  the  walls.  Alone  both  fronts 
is  a  massive  verandah,  and  over  the  E. 
entrance  a  rectangular  tower  66  ft. 
high.  The  entrance  is  on  the  W.,  and 
is  flanked  by  two  circular  towers.  The 
N.  and  S.  wings  contain  32  suites  of 
bedrooms  and  sitting-rooms,  bath- 
rooms and  lavatories.  To  the  W.  of 
the  N.  wing  is  a  chemical  laboratory, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  a  gymnasium 
and  racquet-court.  N.  of  the  labora- 
tory are  extensive  stables.  The  young 
princes,    besides    playing    all    manly 

ries,  are  drilled  as  a  troop  of  cavalry, 
of  the  quadrangle  are  the  houses  of 
the  Principal  and  vice-principal,  with 
extensive  gardens.  S.  of  the  buildings 
is  the  cricket-field  of  19  acres.  The 
college  was  founded  by  Col.  Keatinge. 

The  JTigh  School  was  opened  in  Janu- 
ary 1876.  It  cost  70, 000  rs, ,  which  were 
given  by  the  Nawab  of  Junagadh.  In 
the  centre  is  a  fine  hall. 

N.E.  of  Rajkot  are  the  Jubilee  Water 
Works,  which  are  for  the  supply  of  the 
town. 

A  branch  line  runs  to  (64  m.)  Nawa- 
nagar  or  Jamnagar,  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name,  whence  Mandvi 
can  be  reached  by  native  craft. 
Small  steamers  occasionally  ply  between 
Beoi,  near  Nawanagar,  and  Bombay. 
The  best  way  to  reach  Mandvi  would 
be  by  steamer  direct  from  Bombay. 
Steamers  call  about  twice  a  week. 

From  Rajkot  the  Morvi  State  Rail- 
way (a  narrow-gauge  (2-5)  line)  runs 
N.E.  to  Wadhwan,  via  Van^aner  junc. 
8ta.  (26  m.)  This  is  the  capital  of  a 
small  state  and  the  residence  of  the 
chiet  The  country  around  is  undukt- 
ing,  rising  into  hills  W.  and  S.  of  the 


town.  From  Vankaner  the  line  runs  E. 
to  (51  m.)  Wadhwan,  and  (91  m.)  Vir- 
amgam  (see  p.  162).  From  this  point 
a  line  runs  to  Mehsana  (see  p.  118)  for 
Ajmere,  Delhi,  etc. 


ROUTE  8 
Rbwaki  to  Eerozepur 

Bewari  junc.  sta.  is  62  m.  S.W.  of 
Delhi,  described  in  Rte.  6.  (p.  181). 

62  m.  Bhewani  sta.,  with  36,000 
people,  chiefly  Hindus. 

74  m.  Hansi  sta.,  D.B.,  a  modem  town 
of  14,000  inhabitants,  lies  on  the  W. 
Jumna  Canal.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  Anangpal  Tuar,  King  of 
Delhi,  and  was  long  the  capital  of 
Hariana.  There  are  ruins  of  an  ancient 
Citadel  and  some  remains  of  gateways, 
and  a  high  brick  wall,  with  bastions 
and  loop-holes.  This  old  town  has  no 
connection  with  the  new,  which,  like 
many  others  in  this  district,  owes  its 
origin  to  the  establishment  of  a  secure 
British  rule,  and  the  opening  up  of 
the  country  by  railways.  The  canal 
which  flows  by  it  is  fringed  with  hand- 
some trees,  in  1783  it  was  desolated 
by  famine,  but  in  1796  the  famous 
sailor  adventurer  George  Thomas  fixed 
his  headquarters  at  Hansi,  which 
forthwith  began  to  revive.  Col. 
Skinner,  C.B.,  settled  here  in  1829, 
In  1802  British  rule  was  established, 
and  a  cantonment  was  fixed  here  in 
which  a  considerable  force,  chiefly 
of  local  levies,  was  stationed.  In 
1867  these  troops  mutinied,  murdered 
all  the  Europeans  they  could  lay  hands 
upon,  and  plundered  the  country 
When  peace  was  restored  the  canton- 
ment was  abandoned.  At  Tosham, 
23  m.  S.W.,  are  some  ancient  inscrip- 
tions. They  are  cut  in  the  rock  hfidf 
the  way  up,  as  is  a  tank  which  is 
much  visited  by  pilgrims,  who  come 


166 


ttotrEE  d.    bewaM  to  ihEROtkvirk 


tniia 


from  giMt  dlstanoea  to  the  yearly  fair 
there. 

89  m.  HiMwr  sta.  (R.X  D.B.  Pop. 
16,000.  The  W,  Jumna  Canal  mAdehy 
the  Emperor  Feroz  Shah  oroeses  from  E. 
to  W-  In  1826  it  was  restored  by  the 
British.  In  this  place  as  well  as  in 
Hansi  the  local  levies  revolted  during 
the  Mutiny  of  1857,  and  murdered 
14  Christians,  to  whom  a  monument 
is  erected  beside  the  little  church, 
but  before  Delhi  was  taken,  a  body 
of  Sikh  levies,  aided  by  contingents 
from  Patiala  and  Bickanur,  under 
General  Van  Cortlandt,  utterly  routed 
them. 

As  at  Hansi,  so  here  the  modern 
town  owes  its  present  prosperity  to  a 
settled  rule  and  to  the  introduction  of 
railways.  Like  many  other  colonies,  it 
baa  beien  formed  at  the  foot  of  an  old 
ruined  town,  which  lies  to  the  S.  of 
it.  It  was  founded  in  1354  a.d.  by 
the  Emperor  Feroz  Shah,  whose  favour- 
ite residence  it  became.  It  is  the 
centre  of  mounds  and  architectural 
remains,  having  lain  on  the  main 
track  from  Mooltan  to  Delhi  in  pre- 
Kussalman  times.  At  Hissar  there 
ifl  a  Government  cattle -farm  {Bir), 
managed  by  a  European  superin- 
tendent, and  attached  to  it  is  an  estate 
of  43,287  acres  for  pasturage. 

The  District  of  Hissar  borders  on  the 
Rajputana  Desert,  and  is  itself  little 
better  than  a  waste,  scattered  over  with 
low  bushes.  The  water-supply  is  in- 
adequate, the  average  rainfall  being 
only  16  in.  The  chief  stream  is  the 
Ohuggar,  which,  with  scant  verdure 
alon^  its  banks,  winds  through  the 
district  like  a  green  riband.  The  Hissar 
•branch  of  the  Western  Jumna  Canal 
passes  through  a  part  of  the  district. 

140  m.  Sirsa  sta.  Pop.  16,000. 
The  town  and  fort  are  supposed  to  have 
been  founded  by  one  Raja  Saras,  about 
the  middle  of  the  6th  century.  A 
Muslim  historian  mentions  it  as  Sarsuti. 
A  great  cattle -fair  is  held  here  in 
August  and  September,  at  which  150,000 
head  of  cattle  are  exposed  for  sale. 

187  m.  Batinda  junc.  sta.  (1400 
inhab.)    From  this  place  lines  run  £. 


t^  Patiala,  Rajpura,  and  Umballa,  and 
W.  to  Bahawalpur,  Hydrabad  and 
Karachi.  There  is  a  very  high  pictor- 
esque  fort  seen  well  from  the  railway, 
but  the  modem  town  contains  nothing 
of  special  interest.  It  was  brought  into 
existence  by  the  B^tish  shortly  beforB 
the  Mutiny. 

213  m.  Kot-Kapnra  juno.  sta.  (B.) 
From  here  a  branch  line  of  50  m.  runs 
W.  to  Fazilka  on  the  SuUej  river. 

241  m.  Ferozepur  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
Pop.  40,000.  There  is  a  fort  and  a 
military  cantonment  2  m.  to  the  S.' 
The  place  was  founded  in  the  time  of 
Feroz  Shah,  Emperor  of  Delhi,  1351-87 
A.D.  At  the  time  of  occupation  by  the 
British  it  was  in  a  declining  state,  bnt 
through  the  exertions  of  Sir  Heniy 
Lawrence  and  his  successors  it  has 
increased  to  its  present  importance. 
There  is  a  large  commerce  and  a  cotton- 1 
press.  The  main  streets  are  wide  and ; 
well  paved,  while  a  circular  road  which 
girdles  the  wall  is  lined  by  the  gardens  | 
of  wealthy  residents. 

The  Fort,  which  contains  the  prin-| 
cipal  arsenal  in  the  Panjab,  was  rebuilt  I 
in  1858,  and  greatly  strengthened  in' 
1887.  The  railway  and  the  trunk  road 
to  Lahore  separate  it  and  the  town 
from  the  Cantonment. 

The  Memorial  Churckj  in  honour  of 
those  who  fell  in  the  Sutlej  campaign 
of  1845-46,  was  destroyed  in  the 
Mutiny,  but  has  since  been  restored. 

In  the  cemetery  lie  many  dis- 
tinguished soldiers,  amongst  them 
Major  George  Broadfoot,  C.fi.,  Gover- 
nor-Generars  Agent,  N.W.  Frontier, 
who  fell  at  Ferozeshah  in  1846,  and 
Generals  Sale  and  Dick. 

On  the  16th  of  December  1845  the 
Sikhs  invaded  the  district,  but,  after 
desperate  fighting,  were  repulsed.  Since 
then  peace  has  prevailed,  except  during 
the  Mutiny  of  1857.  In  May  of  that 
year  one  of  the  two  Sepoy  regiments 
stationed  at  Ferozepur  revolted,  and,  in 
spite  of  a  British  regiment  and  some 
English  artillery,  plundered  and  de- 
stroyed the  Cantonment. 

The  three  great  battlefields  of  theFint 
Sikh  War  can  best  be  visited  fiom 
this  point  Ferozeshah,  where  the  battio 


ftOOTBJ  9.      JBTPORB  TO  AGRA 


10? 


:  Was  fonght  on  21st  and  22d  December 
1 1845,  is  distant  13  m.  in  a  S.E.  direction, 
and  Moodki  is  10  m.  beyond  it  in  a 
straight  line.  The  fight  at  the  latter 
place  was  on  the  18th  December  1845. 
Sobraon  was  the  scene  of  a  great  battle 
on  10th  February  1846.  ft  is  24  m. 
distant  from  Ferozepur  in  an  N.E. 
direction.^ 

64  m.  from  Ferozepur  Lahore  sta. 
(seep.  199.) 


ROUTE  9 

Jeypore  to  Agra 

From  Jeypore  to  Bandikui  junc. 
sta.  (R.),  56  m.  (see  p.  130). 

116  m.  Blmrtpur  or  Bharatpur  sta., 
D.B.,  the  residence  of  the  Maharaja  chief 
of  the  Jat  state  (67,000  inhab.)  The 
ruling  family  is  descended  from  a  Jat 
Zamindar  named  Churaman,  who  har- 
assed the  rear  of  Auranffzib's  army  during 
his  expedition  to  the  Deccan.  He  was 
mcceeded  by  his  brother  and  after  him 
by  his  nephew,  Suraj  Mall,  who  fixed 
his  capital  at  B  hurt  pur,  and  subse- 
quently (1760)  drove  out  the  Maratha 
goyemor  from  Agra,  and  made  it  his 
own  residence. 

In  1765  the  Jats  were  repulsed  before 
Delhi  and  driven  out  of  Agra. 

In  1782  Sindia  seized  Bhurtpur 
and  the  territory ;  however,  he  restored 
14  districts  to  them,  and  when  he  got 
into  difficulties  at  Lalkot  he  made  an 
alliance  with  the  Jat  chief  Ranjit  Sin- 
dia ;  and  the  Jats  were  defeated  by 
Ghulam  Kadir  at  Fatehpur-Sikri,  anS 
were  driven  back  on  Bhurtpur,  but 
being  reinforced  at  the  end  of  the  same 
year,  in  1788,  they  raised  the  blockade 
of  Agra,  and  Sindia  recovered  it.  In 
1808  the  British  Government  made  a 

1  See  TAe  Sikfu  and  tlM  Sikh,  Wan  by 
06neml  Googh,  Y.O.,  and  A.  D.  Innee. 


treaty  with  Ranjit,  who  joined  Gkfneral 
Lake  at  Agra  with  5000  horse,  and  re- 
ceived territory  in  return.  But  Ranjit 
intrigued  with  Jaswant  Rao  Holkar. 
Then  followed  the  siege  of  Bhurtour 
by  Lake,  who  was  repulsed  with  a  loss 
of  3000  men.  Ranjit  then  made  over- 
tures for  peace,  which  were  accepted  on 
the  4th  of  May  1805.  Troubles  again 
breaking  out  regarding  the  succession, 
Bhurtpur  was  again  besieged,  and  on 
the  18th  of  January  1826,  after  a  siege 
of  six  weeks,  the  place  was  stormed  % 
Gen.  Lord  Combermere.  The  loss  oif 
the  besieged  was  estimated  at  6000  men 
killed  and  wounded.  The  British  had 
108  killed,  and  477  wounded  and 
missing. 

The  Walled  City  of  Bhurtpur  is  an 
irregular  oblong,  lying  N.E.  and  S.W. 
The  Inner  Fort  is  contained  in  the  N.  E. 
half  of  the  outer  fort  Three  palaces 
run  right  across  the  centrie  of  the  inner 
fort  from  E.  to  W.,  that  to  the  E.  being 
the  Eaja's  Palace.  Next  is  an  old 
palace  built  by  Badan  Sing.  To  the 
W.  is  a  palace  which  is  generally  styled 
the  Eamara  ;  it  is  furnished  in  a  semi- 
European  style. 

There  are  only  two  gates  to  the  inner 
fort,  the  Chau  Burj  Gate  on  the  S*,  and 
the  Asaldati  on  the  N.  The  bastion 
at  the  N.  W.  corner  of  the  inner  fort  is 
called  the  Jowaha/r  Burjt  and  is  worth 
ascending  for  the  view.  N.  of  the 
Eamara  Palace  is  the  Court  of  Justice, 
the  Jewel  Office,  and  the  Jail.  On  the 
road  between  the  Chau  Burj  Gate  of 
the  inner  fort  and  the  Anah  Gate  of 
the  outer  fort  are  the  Ganga  ki  Mandir, 
a  market-place,  the  new  mosque,  and 
the  Lakhshmanji  temple. 

133  m.  Achnera  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
This  is  the  junction  of  a  line  of  railway 
passing  through  Muttra  to  Bindraban 
and  to  Hathras  on  the  East  Indian  Rail- 
way. Also  to  Farakhabad,  Fatehgarh, 
and  Cawnpore.  As,  however,  the 
journey  from  Agra  to  Cawnpore  can  be 
made  more  conveniently  by  the  East 
Indian  Railway,  this  route  will  not  be 
described  in  detail.  (For  Muttra,  Bin- 
draban,. and  Dig  see  Rte.  10.)  Fateli- 
pnr-Sikri  (see  below)  is  10  m.  &W. 
from  Aohnera  by  a  direct  track,  aad 


168 

nearly  18 
road. 


BOUTS  9.      JKTFOBK  TO  AGBA 


Jndift 


via  Kiraoli  and  the  Agra 


149  m.  AGRA  Fort  ■U.^c  (R.), 
D.B.  where  travellers  alight  for  the 
hotels.  It  is  W.  of  the  Fort,  inst 
outside  the  Delhi  Gate,  and  is  need  by 
all  the  lines  ranning  into  Agra.  The 
cantonment  sta.,  June  of  the  Indian 
Midland  Bly.  to  Gwalior  and  Jhansi,  is 
2  m.  S.  of  the  Fort  sta.  Abont  1  m.  nn 
the  river  is  the  Pontoon  Bridge  whicn 
leads  from  the  city  to  the  old  Bast 
Indian  Railway  station,  now  used  for 
goods  only. 

This  is  the  second  ci^  in  size  and 
importance  of  the  N.W.  Provinces, 
and  has  a  pop.  of  165,000.  It  is  841 
m.  distant  from  Calcutta  by  rail,  and 
139  m.  from  Delhi  It  stands  on  the 
W.  or  right  bank  of  the  Jumna,  here 
crossed  by  a  ^ilway  Bridge  of  1 6  spans. 


Itinerary. 

Though  a  week  might  veiy  pleasantly 
be  spent  in  visiting  the  sights  in  and 
around  Agra,  they  can  be  seen  in 
shorter  time,  and  for  those  persons  who 
have  not  many  days  at  their  disposal 
the  following  Itinerary  may  be  of  ser- 


1st  Day,  Morning, — Fort  and  Palace. 
Afternoon, — Drive  to  the  Jnmma  Mus- 
jld  and  on  to  the  Taj. 

2d  Day,  Morning, — Drive  to  Sikan- 
darah.  Afternoon.  —  To  Itimadud- 
daulah,  and  Chini  ka  Roza. 

Most  people  will  like  to  visit  some  of 
the  places  more  than  once.  A  full  day,  or 
better  still,  24  hours  should  be  devoted 
to  the  excursion  to  Fatehpur-Sikri. 

The  old  Native  City  covered  about 
11  sq.  m.,  half  of  which  area  is  still 
inhabited.  It  is  clean  and  has  a  good 
bazaar.  The  chief  Articles  of  Native 
Manufacture  are  gold  and  silver  em- 
broidery, carving  in  soapstone,  and 
imitation  of  the  old  inlay  work  {pietra 
dura)  on  white  marble. 


The  Cantonment  and  Civil  Station 
lie  to  the  S.  and  S.  W.  of  the  Fort,  and 
£.  of  them  on  the  river  bank  is  the 
famous  Tig. 

History. — Nothine  certain  is  knows 
of  Agra  before  the  Mohammedan  period. 
The  house  of  Lodi  was  the  first  Mo- 
hammedan dynasty  which  chose  Agn 
for  an  occasional  residence.  Befoni 
their  time  Agra  was  a  district  of  Bi 
Sikandar  bin  Bahlol  Lodi  died  at  Am 
in  1515  A-D.,  but  was  buried  at  DeLm. 
Sikandar  Lodi  built  the  Barahdaii 
Palace,  near  Sikandarah,  which  suborl 
received  its  name  from  him.  The  Led! 
Khan  ka  Tila,  or  Lodi's  Mound,  isnoH 
built  over  with  modem  houses ;  itis  saij 
to  be  the  site  of  the  palace  of  the  Lodi^ 
called  Badalgarh.  Babar  is  said  to  ha^ 
had  a  garden-palace  on  the  E.  bank 
the  Jumna,  nearly  opposite  the  Taj,  az 
there  is  a  mosque  near  the  spot,  with  « 
inscription  which  shows  that  it  wai 
built  by  Babar's  son  Humayun,  in  1531 

A.D. 

On  the  Agra  side  of  the  river,  nes 
the  Barracks,  there  are  the  remains  i 
an  ancient  garden.  Mr.  Carlleyle  thinla 
it  was  the  place  where  Akbar  encampd 
when  he  first  came  to  Agra.  In  it  i 
the  shrine  of  Kamal  Khan,  40  ft  long 
and  rectangular.     It  has  red  sandston 

Eillars  YfilSk  square  shafts  and  Hind] 
racket  capitals.  Broad  eaves  projea 
from  above  the  entablatures,  and  an 
supported  by  beautiful  open-wod 
brackets  of  a  thoroughly  Hindu  cha» 
acter.  The  great  well  is  at  the  bad 
of  Kamal  Khan's  shrine ;  it  is  220  ft 
in  circumference,  with  a  16-sided  ex< 
terior,  each  side  measuring  18  ft.  9  in.a 
at  it  52  people  could  draw  water  at  oncflk 
From  such  works  it  appears  that  Aat 
was  the  seat  of  government  unaerl 
Babar  and  Humayun,  though  after 
Humayun's  restoration  he  resided 
frec^uently  at  Delhi,  and  died  and  was 
buned  there.  Agra  town  was  probably 
then  on  the  bank  of  the  Jamua.  Akbu 
removed  from  Fatehpur-Sikri  to  Agra 
about  1568.  The  only  buildings  that 
can  now  be  attributed  to  Akbar  him- 
self are  the  walls,  the  Magazine  to 
the  S.  of  the  Water  Gate,  once 
Akbar's  audience  -  hall,  and   tb.e  red 


BOUTB  9.       AGRA 


169 


palace  in  tlie  fort.  He  died  at  Agra 
m  1605.  Jehangir  left  Agra  in  1618, 
and  never  returned.  Shan  Jehan  re- 
sided at  Agra  from  1632  to  1637,  and 
built  the  Fort  and  Palace  and  the 
T«y.  He  was  deposed  by  his  son  Aurang- 
leb  in  1658,  but  lived  as  a  State  prisoner 
seven  years  longer  at  Agra.  Aurang- 
zeb  removed  the  seat  of  government 
permanently  to  Delhi.  In  1764  Agra  was 
taken  by  Suraj  Mall,  of  Bhurtpur  and 
Smnroo,  with  an  army  of  Jats,  who  did 
much  damage  to  the  town.  In  1770  the 
Harathas  captured  it,  and  were  expelled 
by  Najaf  Khan  in  1774.  In  1784  Mu- 
hammad Beg  was  Governor  of  Agra, 
and  was  besieged  by  Mahadaji  Sindia, 
who  took  it  in  1784,  and  the  Marathas 
held  it  till  it  was  taken  by  Lord  Lake, 
17th  October  1803.  Since  then  it  has 
been  a  British  possession.  From  1835- 
1858  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
K.W.  Provinces  was  removed  to  Agra 
from  Allahabad. 

On  the  30th  May  1857  two  companies 
of  the  40th  and  67th  N.L,  who  had 
been  sent  to  Muttra  to  bring  the 
treasure  there  into  Agra,  mutinied  and 
marched  off  to  Delhi.  Next  morning 
tiieir  comrades  were  ordered  to  pile 
arms,  which  they  did,  and  most  of 
them  went  to  their  homes.  On  the  4th 
the  Eotah  contingent  mutinied,  and 
went  off  to  join  the  Neemuch  mutineers, 
consisting  of  a  strong  brigade  of  all 
arms.  Their  camp  was  2  m.  from  the 
Agra  cantonment,  at  Suchata.  On 
5tQ  July,  Brigadier  Polwhele  moved 
out  with  816  men  to  attack  them. 
The  battle  began  with  artillery,  but 
the  enemy  were  so  well  posted,  sheltered 
by  low  trees  and  walls  and  natural 
earthworks,  that  the  British  fired  into 
them  with  little  damage.  At  4  p.m. 
the  British  ammunition  was  expended ; 
then  Col.  Biddell  advanced  with  the 
English  soldiers,  and  captured  the 
village  of  Shahganj,  but  with  such 
heavy  loss  that  they  were  unable  to 
hold*  their  ground,  and  were  obliged 
to  retreat  into  the  Fort  of  Agra.  The 
rebels  burnt  the  cantonments,  murdered 
all  Europeans  who  were  found  out- 
side the  Fort,  and  then  marched  to 
Delhi. 

There  were  now  6000  men,  women, 


and  children,  of  whom  only  1600 
were  Hindus  and  Mohammedans,  shut 
up  in  the  Fort.  Among  these  were 
nuns  from  the  banks  of  the  Garonne 
and  the  Loire,  priests  from  Sicily  and 
Rome,  missionaries  from  Ohio  and 
Basle,  mixed  with  rope-dancers  from 
Paris  and  pedlars  from  America. 
The  fort  was  put  in  a  thorough  state 
of  defence.  Soon  after  Brigadier  Pol- 
whele was  superseded,  and  Col.  Cotton 
took  his  place.  On  the  20th  of  August 
he  sent  out  his  Brig. -Major  Mont- 
gomery with  a  small  column,  and  on 
the  24th  Montgomery  defeated  the 
rebels  at  Aligarh,  and  took  the  place. 
On  the  9th  September  Mr.  Colvin, 
Lieut. -Governor  of  N.W.  Provinces, 
died.  When  Delhi  was  captured  by 
the  British  in  September,  the  fugitive 
rebels,  together  with  those  of  Central 
India,  advanced,  on  6th  October,  against 
Agra.  Meantime  Col.  Greathed's  cmumn 
from  Delhi  entered  the  city  without 
their  knowledge,  and  when  they,  un- 
suspicious of  his  presence,  attacked 
the  place,  they  were  completely  routed 
and  dispersed.  Agra  was  thus  relieved 
from  all  danger. 

The  Taj  Mahal  should  be  seen  more 
than  once.  The  best  time  for  a  first 
visit  is  late  in  the  afternoon.  A  good 
road  leads  to  it,  made  in  the  famine 
of  1838.  It  stands  on  the  brink  of 
the  Jumna,  a  little  more  than  1  m. 
E.  of  the  Fort.  The  building  is  pro- 
perly named  Taj  Mbi  he  Jtoza,  or 
••The  Crown  Lady's  Tomb."  The 
Taj  with  its  surroundings  is  a  spot  of 
unequalled  beauty.  The  heroic  size, 
the  wonderful  contrast  of  colours  in  the 
materials  employed,  the  setting  of  noble 
trees,  sweet  shrubs,  and  clear  water, 
form  a  combination  that  we  seek  in 
vain  elsewhere.  This  mausoleum  was 
commenced  in  1040  A.H.,  or  1630  A.p., 
by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan,  as  a  tomb 
for  his  favourite  queen,  Arjmand  Banu, 
entitled  Mumtaz  Mahsd,  lit.  the 
**  Chosen  of  the  Palace,"  or  more  freely, 
**  Pride  of  the  Palace."  She  was  the 
daughter  of  Asaf  Khan,  brother  of 
Nurjehan,  the  famous  empress- wife  of 
Jehangir.  Their  father  was  Mirza 
Ghiyas,    a   Persian,    who   came  from 


1?0 


ftOUTB  9.      JETPORB  HO  AGRA 


IfuZis 


Teheran  to  seek  his  fortune  in  India, 
and  rose  to  power  nnder  the  title  of 
Itimadu  'd-danlah.  His  tomb  is  de- 
scribed below.  Mnmtaz  -  i  •  Mahal 
married  Shah  Jehan  in  1615  A.D.,  had 
by  him  seven  children,  and  died  in  child- 
bed of  the  eighth  in  1629,  at  Barhanpur, 
in  the  Deccan.  Her  body  was  brought 
to  Ajgra,  and  laid  in  the  garden  where 
the  Taj  stands  until  the  mausoleum 
was  built  The  Taj  cost,  according  to 
some  accounts,  18,465,186  rs.,  and, 
according  to  other  accounts,  31,748,026 
rs.  It  took  upwards  of  seventeen  years 
to  build,  and  much  of  the  materials  and 
labour  remained  unpaid  for.  According 
to  Shah  Jehan's  own  memoirs,  the 
masons  received  30  lakhs.  There 
were  originally  two  silver  doors  at  the 
entrance,  but  these  were  taken  away 
and  melted  by  Suraj  Mall  and  his  Jats. 
It  is  uncertain  who  was  the  principal 
architect,  but  Austin  de  Bordeaux  was 
then  in  the  Emperor's  service.  He  was 
buried  at  Agra,  and  it  is  probable  that 
he  took  part  in  the  decoration,  and 
especially  in  the  inlaid  work,  of  the 
mausoleum. 

The  approach  to  the  Taj  is  by  the 
Taj  Oanj  Gate,  which  opens  into  an 
outer  court  880  ft.  long  and  440  ft. 
wide,  in  which  (1.)  is  the  Qreat  (Gate- 
way of  the  garden -court,  which  Mr. 
Fergusson  calls  "a  worthy  pendant  to 
the  Taj  itself."  It  is  indeed  a  superb 
gateway,  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid  with 
ornaments  and  inscriptions  from  the 
Koran,  in  white  marble,  and  surmounted 
by  26  white  marble  cupolas.  Before 
passing  under  the  gateway,  observe  the 
noble  caravanserai  outside,  and  an 
equally  fine  building  on  the  other  side. 
Bayard  Taylor  says :  **  Whatever  may 
be  the  visitor's  impatience,  he  cannot 
help  pausing  to  notice  the  fine  propor- 
tions of  these  structures,  and  the  rich 
and  massive  style  of  their  construction." 
They  are  not  only  beautiful,  but  they 
increase  the  glories  of  the  mausoleum 
itself,  by  the  contrast  of  their  somewhat 
stem  red  sandstone  with  the  soft  and 
pearl-like  white  marble  of  which  it  is 
buUt. 

Having  passed  the  gateway,  the 
visitor  finds  himself  in  a  beautiful  gar- 
den.    In  the  centre  is  a  channel  of 


water,  which  runs  the  whole  length  of 
the  garden,  and  has  23  fountains  in  its 
course.  The  beds  of  the  garden  are 
filled  with  the  choicest  shrubs  and 
cypress  trees,  equal  in  size  and  beanty 
to  those  of  Mazandarun.  It  is  now 
that  the  mausoleum  presents  itself  to 
the  gaze  in  all  its  glory.  It  stands  in 
the  centre  of  a  platform,  faced  with 
white  marble,  exactly  313  ft  sq.  and 
18  ft.  high,  with  a  white  minaret  at 
each  comer  138  ft.  high.  It  is  a  sq. 
of  186  ft  with  the  comers  cut  off 
to  the  extent  of  33^  ft.  The  principal 
dome  is  58  ft.  in  diameter,  and  80  ft 
in  height 

The  Taj  was  repaired  before  the  Prince 
of  Wales's  visit.  The  dome  is  brick 
veneered  with  marble,  and  all  the  slabs 
with  which  it  is  faced  were  examined, 
and  repointed  where  necessary.  The 
marble  was  damaged  chiefly  by  the 
swelling  of  the  iron  clamps  during 
oxidation. 

In  every  angle  of  the  mausoleum  is 
a  small  domical  apartment,  two  stories 
high,  and  these  are  connected  by 
various  passages  and  halls.  Under  the 
centre  of  the  dome,  enclosed  by  "a 
trellis-work  screen  of  white  marble, 
a  chef  d*osttvre  of  elegance  in  Indian 
art,"  are  the  tombs  of  Mumtaz-i-Mahal 
and  Shah  Jehan.  "These,  however, 
as  is  usual  in  Indian  sepulchres,  are 
not  the  true  tombs — the  bodies  rest  in 
a  vault,  level  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground    beneath    plainer    tombstones 

E laced  exactly  beneath  those  in  the 
all  above."  In  the  apartment  above, 
where  the  show  tombs  are,  "  the  light," 
says  Mr.  Fergusson,  "  is  admitted  only 
through  double  screens  of  white  marble 
trellis-work  of  the  most  exquisite  de- 
sign, one  on  the  outer  and  one  on  the 
inner  face  of  the  walls.  In  oar  climate 
this  would  produce  nearly  complete 
darkness  ;  but  in  India,  and  in  a  build- 
ing wholly  composed  of  white  marble, 
this  was  required  to  temper  the  glare 
that  otherwise  would  have  been  intoler- 
abh.  As  it  is,  no  words  can  express 
the  chastened  beauty  of  that  central 
chamber,  seen  in  the  soft  gloom  of  the 
subdued  light  that  reaches  it  through 
the  distant  and  half- closed  openings 
that  surronnd  it.    When  used  as  i 


To  face  p.  170. 


Section  and  Plan  of  the  Taj  Mahal. 


THE        FORT 

AGRA 


2,  Des&iiit  to  WEtttr  (late, 

^  NaffiiuUi  Mns.iid  auti  Ijnites'  privato  linzaar- 

4*  riuiall  Gotirts  and  mins  of  Baths* 

5i  Opeij  Terrace  ivt  Ih  D  i  h  Ai  1 1-  Kl  las  oi  i  li  i^ide. 

fiL  RfiC4?fls    where    the     KinpiTor's    Tdrojits 

7.  tit  wa  H'i  'Am  ( Ila  ]  1  of  Pii  bl  ic  Aud  i  i^n  co). 

S.  .Machehl  Hliavvaii. 

t'.  ^^^  Calvin 'a  (ira-^t'i, 

10.  Th«  >farbld  Jiatha  uf  Urn  Piincesseij, 


VL  iS^uiian    Burj    (Jasminfj    Tovier)  (flt  Ni 
an^lH  fs  as  I  outlet  by  sjsccret  i)fti»Riiis]i 

13.  kliaVMahal 

14.  Shish  :MBhal  (Mirror  Palace). 

15.  Well. 

1  e.   P[i]ar:p  of  JshBTii^r  (or  AkbarX 
17,  Tuwer,     At  tlie  tiaae  ia  an  ciiiti&ticf  I 

a  secret  passavie. 

15,  Inrliiif!  from  Umjuer  Sing's  Gate. 

16.  Iliifiizs  of  Bilnce  of  Akbar. 

20.  K)<7phant  Gate. 

21.  Court  af  Ummer  Slug's  Gutei 


To  Jncfjfi  17L 


k>tn!II  §.      AQRA 


m 


Barahdari,  or  pleasnre-palace,  it  must 
always  have  been  the  coolest  and  the 
ioyeUest  of  garden  retreats,  and  now 
that  it  is  sacred  to  the  dead,  it  is  the 
most  graceful  and  the  most  impressive 
of  sepulchres  in  the  world.  This  build- 
ing too  is  an  exquisite  example  of  that 
system  of  inlaying  with  precious  stones 
which  became  the  great  characteristic 
of  the  style  of  the  Moguls  after  the 
death  of  Akbar.  All  l^e  spandrils  of 
the  Taj,  all  the  angles  and  more  im- 
portant details,  are  heightened  by  being 
mlaid  with  precious  stones.  These  are 
combined  in  wreaths,  scrolls,  and  frets 
as  exquisite  in  design  as  beautiful  in 
colour.  They  form  the  most  beautiful 
and  precious  style  of  ornament  ever 
adopted  in  architecture.  Though  of 
course  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
beauty  of  Greek  ornament,  it  certainly 
'stands  first  among  the  purely  decorative 
forms  of  architectural  design.  This 
mode  of  ornamentation  is  lavishly  be- 
stowed on  the  tombs  themselves  and 
the  screen  that  surrounds  them. 
The  judgment  with  which  this  style 
of  ornament  is  apportioned  to  the 
various  parts  is  almost  as  remarkable 
as  the  ornament  itself,  and  conveys  a 
high  idea  of  the  taste  and  skill  of  the 
Indian  architects  of  the  age"  (see 
3isL  of  Arch.) 

The  delicately  sculptured  ornamenta- 
tion, in  low  relief,  to  be  found  in  all 
parts  of  the  building,  is  in  its  way  as 
beautiful  as  the  pietra  dura  work 
itself. 

There  are  two  wings  to  the  mauso- 
leum, one  of  which  is  a  mosque.  Any- 
where else  they  would  be  considered 
i*  important  buildings.  There  are  three 
inscriptions:  1046  A. h.  =1636  A.D., 
1048  A.H.=1638  A.D.,  and  1057  a.h. 
= 1647  A.D.  Mr.  Keene,  who  has  given 
an  excellent  account  of  the  Taj,  thinks 
that  "the  inscriptions  show  the  order 
in  which  the  various  parts  of  the  build- 
ing were  completed.  Such  then  is 
this  **poem  in  marble,"  whose  beauty 
has  been  faintly  shadowed  out.  It 
should  be  seen  if  possible  by  moon- 
light, as  well  as  by  day.  The  S.  face, 
which  looks  upon  the  warden,  is  per- 
haps the  most  beautiful,  but  the  N. 
front  which  rises  above  the  Jumna, 


derives  an  additi(mal  charm  from  the 
broad  waters  which  roll  past  it 

The  Fort.  —  Most  of  the  magnifi- 
cent Mo^ul  building  which  render 
Agra  so  mteresting  in  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  are  situated  within  the  Fort. 
They  justify  the  remark  of  Bishop  Heber 
that  "  the  Moguls  designed  like  Titans 
and  finished  like  jewellers."  The  Fort 
stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Jumna. 
The  walls  and  nanking  defences  are  of 
red  sandstone,  and  have  an  imposing 
anpearance,  being  nearly  70  ft.  hign. 
The  ditch  is  80  ft.  wide  and  35  ft.  deep. 
The  water  gate  on  the  E.  is  closed,  but 
there  are  still  2  entrances — the  Ummer 
Sing  gate  on  the  S.,  the  Delhi  Gate 
on  the  "W.  Within  it,  and  approached 
by  a  somewhat  steep  slope,  is  another 
gateway  called  the  Hathiya  Darwazah 
"  Elephant  Gate,"  or  Inner  Delhi  Gate. 
There  used  to  be  two  stone  elephants 
here  with  figures  of  Patta  and  Jaimall, 
two  famous  Rajput  champions ;  they 
were  removed,  but  the  marks  where  their 
feet  were  fixed  may  still  be  traced  on 
the  platforms  on  either  side  of  the  arch- 
way. There  are  here  two  octagonal 
towers  of  red  sandstone,  relieved  with 
designs  in  white  plaster:  the  passage 
between  these  is  covered  by  a  dome. 
Following  the  road,  the  traveller  will 
then  pass  the  Mini  Bazaar,  now  barrack 
premises,  and  reach 

The  Moti  MuBJid,  the  "Pearl 
Mosque,"  Fergusson  describes  as  "one 
of  the  purest  and  most  elegant  build- 
ings of  its  class  to  be  found  any- 
where." It  was  commenced  1056  A.H. 
=  1648  A.D.,  and  finished  1063  A.H.= 
1655  A.D.,  and  is  said  to  have  cost 
300,000  rs.  It  was  built  by  Shah 
Jehan  on  ground  sloping  from  W.  to  E. 
The  exterior  is  faced  with  slabs  of  red 
sandstone,  but  within  with  marble — 
white,  blue,  and  gray  veined.  The 
entrance  gateway  of  red  sandstone, 
which  is  very  fine,  makes  a  trihedral 
projection  from  the  centre  of  the  E. 
face  of  the  mosque,  and  is  approached 
by  a  double  staircase.  **  The  moment 
you  enter,  the  effect  of  its  courtyard  is 
surpassingly  beautiful." 


172 


ROUTE  9.      JETPOBS  TO  AOBA 


tndU 


In  the  centre  there  is  a  marble  tank, 
37  ft.  7  in.  sq.,  for  ablutions,  and  be- 
tween it  and  the  S.E.  inner  comer  of 
the  mosque  there  is  an  ancient  snn- 


Moti  Musjld. 

dial,  consisting  of  an  octagonal  marble 
pillar  4  ft.  hign,  with  no  gnomon,  but 
simply  two  crossed  lines  and  an  arc.  A 
marble  cloister  runs  round  the  E.,  N., 
and  S.  sides  of  the  court,  interrupted 
by  archways,  of  which  those  in  the  N. 
and  S.  sides  are  closed.  The  mosque 
proper  consists  of  3  aisles  of  7  bays 
opening  on  to  the  courtyard,  and  is 
surmounted  by  3  domes.  On  the  en- 
tablature over  the  front  row  of  support- 
ing pillars,  i,e,  on  the  E.  face,  there  is 
an  inscription  running  the  whole  lent^h, 
the  letters  being  of  black  marble  inlaid 
into  the  white.  The  inscription  says 
that  the  mosque  may  be  likened  to  a 
precious  pearl,  for  no  other  mosque  is 
lined  throughout  with  marble  like  this. 
Narrow  flights  of  steps  lead  to  the  top 
of  the  gateway  and  to  the  roof  of  the 
mosque,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  view. 
During  the  Mutiny  this  mosque  was 
used  as  an  hospital. 

Turning  rt.  from  the  Moti  Mosque, 
the  grand  Armoury  Square,  the  Place  du 


Carrousel  of  Agra,  witTi  the  Diwan-i 
'Am  on  the  left,  is  entered.  There  al 
ranges  of  cannons  here  and  lai| 
mortars,  and  amongst  them  the.  torn 
of  Mr.  Colvin.  Here  is  also  the  Men 
of  Jehaujeir,  an  enormous  monolith] 
cistern  of  light -coloured  porphyry  q 
close-grained  ^nite ;  externally  it  I 
nearly  6  ft.  high,  and  internally  4  fl 
deep.  It  is  8  ft  in  diameter  at  t<^ 
It  originally  stood  in  Jehangir's  palaa 
Some  have  thought  the  Diwan-i-'A] 
was  built  by  Akbar,  others  by>  Jehangi 
but  according  to  Carlleyle  it  was  \m 
by  Shah  Jehan,  and  was  his  public  Hal 
of  Audience.  This  building  is  201  i 
long  from  N.  to  S.,  and  consists  of 
aisles  of  9  bays  open  on  3  sides.  T!i 
roof  is  supported  by  graceful  colunu 
of  red  sandstone,  painted  white  an 
gold  on  the  occasion  of  the  Prince  < 
Wales's  visit.  Along  its  back  wall  aal 
grilles,  through  which  fair  faces  cool 
watch  what  was  going  forward  in  th 
hall  below,  and  in  its  centre  is  a  raise 
alcove  of  white  marble  richly  decorate( 
with  pietra  dura  work  and  low  reliefsj 
which  bear  evident  traces  of  Italian 
design.  Here  travellers  describe  Aa- 
rangzib  sitting  to  watch  the  administra- 
tion of  justice  in  the  hall  below. 

Ascend  now  some  stairs  at  the  back 
of  the  place  where  the  Emperor  sat  in 
the  Diwan-i-'Am,  and  pass  through  a 
doorway  into  Shah  Jehan's  pjuace. 
Here  is  the  Machchi  Bhawan,  or  "  Fish] 
Square,"  formerly  a  tank.  In  the  N.| 
side  are  two  bronze  gates  taken  hj] 
Akbar  from  the  palace  at  Chitor.  Atj 
the  N.W.  corner  is  a  beautiful  little 
three-domed  mosque  of  white  marble, 
called  the  Naginah  Miisjid,  or  *'Gem 
Mosque."  It  was  the  private  mosque 
of  the  royal  ladies  of  the  court,  and  was 
built  by  Shah  Jehan,  who  was  after- 
wards imprisoned  there  by  his  successor, 
Aurangzio.  Beneath,  in  a  small  court* 
yard,  was  a  bazaar  where  the  merchants 
used  to  display  their  goods  to  the  ladies 
of  the  court.  A  two-storied  cloister 
runs  all  round  the  Machchi  Bhawan, 
except  on  the  side  which  fronts  the 
Jumna,  where  the  upper  story  gives 
place  to  an  open  terrace,  with  a  Uaek 
throne,  on  the  side  nearest  the  river, 
and  a  white  seat  opposite,  where  it  is 


BOVTM  9.      AOBA 


178 


iid  dMOoiirftJartvMt  Tlu  Uack 
Inme  liaa  a  long  fiasoie,  which  is  said 
to  have  appeared  when  the  throne  was 
mrped  hy  the  Jat  chief  of  Bhurtpor. 
fkere  is  a  reddish  stain  in  one  spot, 
rbich  shows  a  combination  of  iron,  but 
lis  natiTes  pretend  that  it  is  blood.  An 
ascription  runs  ronnd  the  four  sides, 
riiieh  says  in  brie^  when  Salim  became 
Mr  to  the  crown  his  name  was  changed 
D  Jehangir,  and  for  the  light  of  nis 
Moe  he  was  called  Nnru-din.  His 
vord  cnt  his  enemies'  heads  into  two 
blves  like  the  Gemini.  As  long  as 
le  heayen  is  the  throne  for  the  sun, 
pkj  the  throne  of  Salim  remain.  Date 
toil  A.H.=1603  A.D.  Beneath  this 
knace  is  a  deep  wide  ditch  where  con- 
Mb  between  elephants  and  tigers  used 
btake  place.  Close  by,  near  the  S.  W. 
tamer  of  the  terrace,  ia  the  Heena 
Ib^id,  or  priyate  mosque  of  the  em- 
^r.  On  the  N.  of  the  terrace  is  the 
ite  of  the  hall  of  green  marble  and 
hmmnm,  now  in  a  ruinous  condition, 
lad  on  the  S. 

The  Diwan-i-Khu,  or  Hall  of  Priyate 
Audience.  It  is  a  miracle  of  beauty. 
Ru  carying  is  exquisite,  and  flowers 
u«  inlaid  on  the  white  marble,  with 
nd  cornelian,  and  other  yaluable  stones. 
From  this  bnildinff,  or  from  his  throne 
DA  the  terrace,  tne  Emperor  looked 
orer  the  broad  river  to  the  beautifid 
prdens  and  buildings  on  the  opposite 
lihore.  The  date  of  this  building  is 
1046  A-H.=1637  A.D.  The  inlaid  or 
(ietra  dura  work  has  been  restored.  A 
staircase  leads  from  the  Diwan-i-Ehas 
to  the  Saman  Bnzj,  or  Jasmine  Tower, 
where  the  chief  Sultana  lived.  Part  of 
Ihe  marble  pavement  in  front  of  it  is 
Blade  to  represent  a  Pachisi  board.  The 
lovely  marble  lattice-work  seems  to  have 
Wn  broken  by  cannon-shot  in  some 
places.  A  beautiful  pavilion,  with  a 
wontain  and  retiring-room,  close  upon 
&e  liver,  are  the  chief  apartments  here. 
Adjoining  and  facing  the  river  is  the 
^Idsn  Pa^on,so  called  from  its  being 
pofed  with  gilded  plates  of  copper.  In 
it  are  bedrooms  for  ladies,  with  noles  in 
^  waU,  14  in.  deep,  into  which  they 
^wed  to  slip  their  jewels.  These  holes 
tre  80  narrow  that  only  a  woman's  arm 


oould  draw  than  <mt    Thflra  ia  a  dmi- 

lar  building  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Ehas 
Mahal  (see  below). 

Near  here  are  remains  of  reservoirs 
and  wateroourses,  and  arrangements 
for  the  raisine-  of  water  from  below. 

The  travefier  will  now  enter  the 
Asgnri  Bagh  or  '*  Grape  Garden,"  a 
fine  square  of  280  ft.  planted  with 
flowers  and  shrubs.  At  the  N.£. 
comer  is  the  Shiih  Kahal,  literally 
**  Mirror  Palace."  It  consists  of  two 
dark  chambers  furnished  with  fountains 
and  an  artificial  cascade  arranged  to 
fall  over  lighted  lami)8.  The  walls  and 
ceiling  are  lined  with  innumerable  small 
mirrors  (restored  in  1876).  From  here 
there  is  direct  communication  with  the 
Water  Gate  and  tiie  Saman  Burj.  At 
the  £.  end  of  the  square  is  a  lovely 
hall,  called  the  Khaa  Kahal,  the  gild- 
ing  and  colouring  of  which  were  in  part 
restored  in  1876.  In  front  are  small 
tanks  and  fountains.  Proceeding  to 
the  S.,  the  visitor  will  come  to  three 
rooms,  beautifully  decorated  in  fresco, 
which  were  the  private  apartments  of 
Shah  Jehan. 

On  the  rt  is  an  enclosure  railed  in, 
in  which  stand  the  so-called  Gates  of 
Somnath,  26  ft.  high,  and  finely  carved : 
they  are  of  Deodar  wood,  of  Saracenic 
work.  There  is  a  Eufic  inscription 
running  round  them,  in  which  the  name 
of  Sabuktagin  has  been  read.  They 
were  captured  by  Greneral  Nott  at 
Ghazni  and  brought  here  in  1842.  The 
room  nearest  the  river  is  an  octagonal 
pavilion,  and  very  beautiful.  In  it 
Shah  Jehan  died,  gazing  upon  the  Taj, 
the  tomb  of  his  favourite  wife. 

Jehangir  Mahal,  a  red  stone  palace 
into  which  the  traveller  now  enters, 
was  built  either  by  Jehangir  or  Akbar. 
It  stands  in  the  S.£.  part  of  the  Fort, 
between  the  palace  of  Shah  Jehan  and 
the  Bangali  bastion.  The  red  saudstone 
of  which  it  \a  built  has  not  resisted  the 
destructive  action  of  the  elements.  In 
some  parts  there  are  two  stories ;  the 
lower  story  has  no  windows  looking  to 
the  front,  but  the  upper  has  several. 
The  upper  front  is  ornamented  with 
blue  and  bright  green  tiles  inserted  into 
the  sandstone.    The  masonic  symbol 


174 


BOUn  •.      JITPOBX  fO  AGRA 


India 


of  dM  doabU  triftni^  inkid  in  wUte 
DiArblo,  oeoan  in  lereral  pkces  on  the 
front  gateway.  The  entrance  gateway 
leading  directly  into  the  palace  is  very 
fine.  The  two  comer  towers  were  sur- 
mounted by  elegant  cupolas,  of  which 
one  only  remains.  Near  here,  on  the 
roof,  may  again  be  seen  arrangements 
for  the  storage  of  water,  with  21  pipes 
for  supplying  the  fountains  below.  The 
entrance  leads  through  a  vestibule  into 
a  beautiful  domed  hall,  18  ft.  sq.,  the 
ceiling  of  which  is  elaborately  carved. 
A  corridor  leads  into  the  grand  central 
court,  which  is  72  ft.  sq.  The  design 
of  this  court,  its  pillars,  the  carving 
and  ornamentation,  are  all  pure  Hindu. 

"On  the  N.  side  of  the  court  is  a 
grand  open  pillared  hall  62  ft.  long 
and  87  ft  broad.  The  pillars  support 
bracket  capitals,  richly  carved  and 
ornamented  with  pendants.  The  front 
brackets  support  broad  sloping  eaves 
of  thin  stone  slabs.  But  the  stone 
roof  or  ceiling  of  this  pillared  hall  is 
the  most  remarkable  feature  about 
it.  It  is  supported  most  curiously 
by  stone  cross-beams,  which  are  orna- 
mented with  the  quaint  device  of  a 
great  serpent  or  dragon  carved  on  them 
lengthways.  A  covered  passage,  or 
corridor,  runs  round  the  top  of  this 
hall,  from  which  one  can  look  down 
into  it  The  other  pillared  hall  on 
the  opposite  or  S.  side  of  the  grand 
court  is  somewhat  less  in  size." 

Passing  from  the  grand  court,  through 
a  large  chamber  to  the  E.,  the  visitor 
will  find  a  grand  archway  in  the  centre 
of  a  quadrangle  which  faces  the  river. 
It  is  supported  by  two  lofty  pillars  and 
two  half  pillars  of  the  more  slender 
and  graceful  Hindu  kind.  Some  of 
the  chambers  are  lined  with  stucco, 
which  has  been  painted,  and  has 
lasted  better  than  the  stone -work. 
For  minute  and  exquisite  ornamental 
carving  in  stone,  the  great  central 
court  is  pre-eminent.  The  palace  ends 
on  the  side  facing  the  river  with  a 
retaining  wall,  and  two  comer  bastions, 
each  surmounted  by  an  ornamental 
tower  with  a  domed  cupola.  There 
are  many  vaulted  chambers  underneath 
the  palace,  believed  to  have  been  used 
as  placea  of  retreat  during  the  summer 


heats.  They  were  thoroughly  explored 
during  1657,  but  as  the  air  is  vexy 
close,  and  snakes  are  numerous,  th^ 
are  seldom  visited.  Between  the  pahu» 
of  Jehangir  and  that  of  Shah  Jehan 
there  is  a  series  of  bathing  tanks  and 
pipes. 

The  Jumma  Muejid  faces  the  Delhi ! 
gate    of    the  Fort,    and    is    close   to 
the  rly.  sta.     It  stands  upon  a  raised 
platform,  reached  by  flights  of  steps  on 
the  S.   and  £.    sides.      The    mosqae 
proper  is  divided  into  5  compartmentsi 
each  of  which  opens  on  the  courtyard 
by  a  fine  archway.     The  work  has  all 
the  originality  and  vigour  of  the  early 
Mogul   style,   mixed  with   many  re- 
miniscences of  the  Pathan  school    Tht 
inscription  over  the  main  archway  sets 
forth  that  the  mosque  was  constructed 
by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan  in  1644, 
after  five  years*  labour.    It  was  built  in 
the  name  of  his  daughter  Jehanarai 
who  afterwards  devotedly  shared  hef 
father's  captivity  when  he  was  deposed 
by  Aurangzib.     The  ^eat  peculiaritf 
of  this  Musjid  consists  in  its  three  great 
full-bottomed  domes  without  neck^, 
shaped  like  inverted  balloons,  and  buiHl 
of  red  sandstone,  with  zigzag  bands  of  | 
white    marble   circling    round    them,  i 
Its  grand  gateway  was  pulled  down  by  ^ 
the    British    authorities    during    the 
Mutiny,  as  it  threatened  the  defences 
of  the  Fort 


St.  (George's  Church  is  divided  into 
a  nave  with  two  side  aisles.     It  was  | 
built  in  1826,  partly  by  Government , 
and  partly  by  subscription.     The  tower 
and  spire  are  of  more  recent  date.    The 
inlaid  marble  work  for  which  Agra  in 
so  famous  is  well  worth  notice  in  the  | 
reredos  and  the  altar. 

St.  Paure  (Military)  Ghurdi  was  : 
built  by  the  E.  I.  Co.  in  1828.  It : 
contains  several  interesting  tablets.       ' 

St.  Paul's  {Civil)  Church,  about  4  ' 
m.  N.  of  St.  George's  Church.  | 

St.  John's  CoUegre  is  the  centre  of  | 
the  C.M.S.  Mission. 

The  Agra  College. — At  the  end  of 
the  last  cent.  Maharaja  Sindia  made 
over  certain  villages  in  the  districts  of 
Muttra  and  Aligarh  to  a  learned  Brah- 
man for  the  twofold  purpose  of  keepiii|f 


Boun  0.    AasA 


176 


mait  Mhool  tnd  of  rapplying 
ill  of  pOgrima  vidting  th« 
aiotind  Muttra.  In  1818  he 
lands  in  trust  to  the  £.  India 
» devoted  two-thirds  of  the  pro- 
the  6Stahli8hn;ent  of  this  col- 
ud  one -third  to  hospitals  at 
and  Aligarh.  The  College, 
.835,  consists  of  a  high  school, 
I  pupils  and  27  masters,  and  a 
roper,  with  250  undergraduates 
rofessors.  It  is  managed  \>j  a 
trustees. 


Catholic  Cathedral,  Con- 
d  SchoolB,  dedicated  to  the 
[ary,  are  quite  dose  to  the  Old 
I  i  UL  N.W.  of  the  Fort, 
n  tower  ahout  150  ft.  high. 
>  N.  of  the  church  is  a  fine 
ilding,  a  conyent,  and  to  the 

priests'  house.  On  the  wall 
kiden  are  several  insoriptions, 
t  of  which  bears  the  date  of 
.  These  buildings  are  large, 
architecturally  interesting. 
^lishment  is,  however,  worthy 
ion  for  its  antiquity  and  the 
k:  it  does.  It  is  the  seat  of  a 
^tholic  Bishop.  The  Mission 
ded  in  the  time  of  Akbar,  and 
been  celebrated  for  its  school, 
)  children  of  soldiers  and  others 
ited.  The  earliest  tombs  cou- 
th the  settlement  of  Christians 
re  in  the  old  cemetery  attached 
ission.  The  most  ancient  epi- 
)  in  the  Arraenian  character. 
>8sinc  and  Walter  Reinhardt 

lie  here. 

mtral  JaU,  1  m.  to  the  N.W. 
'ort,  is  one  of  the  largest,  if 
largest,  in  India.  The  mann- 
in  this  Jail  are  well  worth 
.  In  the  carpet  factory  men 
aeh  side,  and  the  Instructor 
;  the  thread  ;  his  words  are 
bv  one  of  the  men,  and  the 
it  in  accordingly.  A  first-class 
s  eight  threads  in  the  weft,  and 
the  warp  in  the  sq.  in.  Six 
foil  day  of  ten  hours'  work  can 
Q.  a  day  in  a  12  ft.  carpet. 

aiade  Gardens,  otherwise  called 


the  Atafa  Begh,  whore  the  bind  idaye 
every  Wedneodav.  In  the  centre  is  a 
lofty  sandstone  obelisk,  with  an  inscrip- 
tion to  General  Sir  John  Adams, 
G.C.B. 

The  Tomb  of  rtlmadu-daulah.— - 
This  building,  one  of  the  finest  in  Agra, 
stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jumna 
near  the  K  I.  Railway  Goods  Station. 
The  traveller  should  cross  the  pontoon 
bridge  and  turn  to  the  left,  and  at  about 
200  yds.  he  will  come  to  the  garden 
in  which  it  stands.  It  is  the  tomb  of 
Ghayas  Beg,  called  by  Sir  W.  Sleeman, 
Khwajah  Accas,  a  Persian,  who  was  the 
father  of  Nur  Jehan,  and  her  brother, 
Asaf  Khan,  and  became  high  treasurer 
ofJehangir.  This  mausoleum  is  entirely 
encased  ivith  white  marble  externally, 
and  partly  internally,  being  beautifully 
inlaid  with  pietra  dura  work.  It  is  a 
square  building  with  an  octagonal  tower 
at  each  comer  and  a  raised  pavilion  in 
the  centre.  On  each  side  of  each  of  the 
entrances  are  window  recesses  filled  with 
exquisite  marble  lattice-work.  Notice 
the  remarkably  delicate  low  relief  work 
in  the  return  of  the  doorways  overhead. 
Each  chamber  has  a  door  leading  into 
the  next,  but  the  central  has  only  one 
open  door,  the  other  three  being  filled 
with  marble  lattice-work.  In  this  cen- 
tral chamber  are  the  two  yellow  marble 
tombs  of  Ghayas  Beg  ana  his  wife,  on 
a  platform  of  variegated  stone.  The 
walls  are  decorated  with  pietra  dura. 

There  are  seven  tombs  altogether  in  the 
mausoleum.  The  side  chambers  are 
also  panelled  with  slabs  of  inlaid  marble, 
but  the  upper  part  of  the  walls  and  the 
ceiling  are  lined  with  plaster,  orna- 
mented with  paintings  of  flowers  and 
long-necked  vases.  In  the  thickness  of 
the  outer  walls  of  the  S.  chamber  there 
are  two  flights  of  stairs,  which  ascend 
to  the  second  story,  on  which  is  the 
pavilion,  containing  two  marble  ceno- 
taphs, counterparts  of  those  below.  The 
roof  is  canopy-shaped,  with  broad  slop- 
ing eaves,  and  marble  slabs.  The  sides 
are  of  perforated  marble  lattice-work. 
The  octagonal  towers,  faced  with  marble, 
at  each  corner  of  the  mausoleum  spread 
out  into  balconies  supported  by  brackets 
at  the  level  of  the  roof.  There  was  a 
marble  railing,   which   has   been   do- 


X 


F) 

.J    - 


176 


BOUTE  9.      JETPOBB  TO  AOEA 


India 


stroysd,  along  the  platform  of  the  roof. 
The  maueoleam  is  surrounded  by  a 
walled  enclosure,  except  towards  the 
river,  or  W.  front ;  in  the  centre  of  the 
river-front  is  a  red  sandstone  pavilion. 

Chini  ka  Boza,  or  china  tomb, 
stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jumna, 
opposite  Agra.  It  has  one  great  dome 
resting  on  an  octagonal  base.  In  the 
centre  is  a  beautiful  octagonal  domed 
chamber  in  ruins.  In  it  are  two  tombs 
of  brick,  which  have  replaced  marble 
tombs.  Besides  the  central  chamber, 
there  are  four  square  comer  chambers, 
and  four  side  halls.  The  mausoleum 
stands  on  the  river  bank,  in  a  masonry 
enclosure.  Though  called  china,  this 
ruin  is  only  externally  glazed  or  en- 
amelled. It  is  said  to  have  been  built 
by  Afzal  Khan,  in  the  time  of  Aurang- 
zib. 

The  Kalan  Mosjid  is  opposite  the 
present  Medical  School  in  the  Saban 
Katra.  Mr.  Carlleyle  thinks  it  the 
oldest  mosque  in  Agra,  and  that  it  was 
built  by  Sikandar  Lodi. 

Akbar's  Tomb  is  at  Sikandarah,  so 
named  from  Sikandar  Lodi,  who  reigned 
from  1489  a.d.  It  is  5^  m.  from  the 
cantonment  at  Agra,  in  a  N.W.  direc- 
tion. There  are  many  tombs  on  the 
way,  and  a  badly  sculptured  horse,  which 
formerly  stood  on  an  inscribed  pedestal, 
now  removed.  This  is  on  the  left  or  S. 
side  of  the  road,  nearly  4  m.  from  Agja, 
and  nearly  opposite  the  lofty  arched 
gateway  of  an  ancient  building  called 
the  Eachi  ki  SaraL  At  ^  m.  farther  on 
is  a  tank  of  red  sandstone,  with  orna- 
mental octagonal  towers,  called  Guru 
ka  Tal.  On  the  S.  side  are  three  flights 
of  steps,  and  E.  of  them  is  a  long  and 
broad  channel  of  masonry,  which  brought 
water  to  the  tank.  At  the  E.  side 
there  is  a  mausoleum  on  a  platfonn  of 
masonry.  According  to  Mr.  Carlleyle, 
the  Barahdari  was  built  by  Sikandar 
Lodi  in  1495  a.d.  It  is  a  red  sand- 
stone two-storied  building.  The  ground 
floor  contains  forty  chambers.  Each 
comer  of  the  building  is  surmounted 
by  a  short  octagonal  tower.  It  is  com- 
monly known  as  the  tomb  of  Begam 
Mariam,  because  Akbar  interred  here 
his  so-called  Portuguese  Christian  wife 
Mary.    Her  tomb  is  in  the  vault  below 


and  there  is  also  a  white  marble 
taph  in  the  centre  of  the  upper  story. 
The  Barahdari  is  now  occupied  by  a 
part  of  the  establishment  of  the  Agra 
Orphan  Asylum. 

The  gateway  to  the  garden  surround- 
ing Akbar's  Tomb  is  truly  magnificent 
It  is  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid  with  white 
marble,  very  massive,  and  with  a 
splendid  scroll,  a  foot  broad,  of  Tughra 
writing  adorning  it.  On  the  top  of  the 
gateway,  at  each  corner,  rises  a  white 
minaret  of  two  stories.  The  kiosks 
which  crowned  them  have  beea  de- 
stroyed over  100  years.  There  is  a  fine 
view  from  the  platform  at  the  top,  and 
it  is  worth  ascending  the  steep  stairs  for 
it.  To  the  W.  are  seen  the  Orphanagi' 
Church,  and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it 
the  Begam  ka  Mahal,  its  dark  red  colour 
contrasting  with  the  white  of  th» 
church.  Far  to  the  S.W.  on  a  clear  day; 
the  grand  gateway  at  Fatehpur-Sikri  can 
be  dimly  seen.  Over  the  tomb  to  the. 
N.  is  seen  the  Jumna  ;  to  the  S.£.  are 
seen  the  Fort,  the  Taj,  the  church  ii 
the  Civil  lines,  and  the  city  of  Agra^ 
Abroad  paved  path  leads  to  the  mauso-^ 
leura  of  Akbi.  It  is  a  pyramidal 
building  of  4  stories,  three  of  which 
are  of  red  sandstone,  the  fourth,  whera 
rests  Akbar's  cenotaph,  being  of  white.] 
marble.  A  massive  cloister  mns  round ! 
the  lower  story,  broken  S.  and  N.  by 
high  central  arches :  that  on  the  S.  forms 
the  entrance.  The  vaulted  ceiling  of  | 
the  vestibule  was  elaborately  frescoed; 
in  gold  and  blue.  A  section  has  been  ' 
restored.  The  Surah-i-Mulk  runs  under  i 
the  cornice  in  a  scroll  1  ft  broad.  A 
gentle  incline  leads  to  the  vaulted 
chamber  in  which  the  great  Akbai 
rests ;  it  is  quite  dark,  and  the  once 
illuminated  walls  are  now  dirty  and  de- 
faced. On  either  side  of  the  main  arch 
bays  of  the  cloister  are  screened  off  and 
contain  tombs.  First  on  the  left  is 
a  tomb  with  an  Arabic  inscription  in 
beautiful  characters.  This  is  the  tomb 
of  Shukra'n  Nisa  Begam.  The  second 
is  the  tomb  of  the  uncle  of  Bahadur 
Shah,  the  last  king  of  DelhL  The  next 
is  the  tomb  of  Zibu'n  Nisa,  daughter  of 
Aurangzib  ;  and  in  a  niche  in  uie  side 
of  the  room,  farthest  from  the  entrance, 
is  an  alabaster  tablet  inscribed  with 


ftOtJTE  9.       PATEHPUR-SlKRt 


177 


lie  dd  divine  names.  On  the  E.  of  the 
Entrance  is  the  tomb  of  Aram  Bano. 

Narrow  staircases  lead  above.  The 
inirth  or  highest  platform  is  surrounded 
ly  a  beautifnl  cloister  of  white  marble, 
iirved  on  the  outer  side  into  lattice- 
irork  in  squares  of  2  ft.,  every  square 
laving  a  different  pattern.  In  the 
»ntre  is  the  splendid  white  cenotaph 
if  Akbar,  just  over  the  place  where  his 
Inst  rests  in  the  gloomy  vaulted  cham- 
fer below.  On  the  N.  side  of  this 
Bonotaph  is  inscribed  the  motto  of  the 
lect  he  founded,  "AUahu  Akbar," 
"God  is  greatest"  ;  and  on  the  S.  side 
"Jalla  Jalalahu,"  "May  His  glory 
ihine."  To  the  N.  of  this  cenotaph, 
it  the  distance  of  4  ft.,  is  a  handsome 
»kite  marble  pillar  4  ft.  high,  which 
WIS  once  covered  with  gold  and  con- 
iuned  the  Koh-i-Nur.  It  is  said  that 
Hadir  Shah  took  it  from  here. 

A  short  distance  to  the  left  of  the 
main  road,  which  runs  through  Sik- 
mdarah,  there  is  an  old  mosque,  partly 
built  of  brick  and  partly  of  red  sand- 
irtone,  called  Bhuri  Khan's.  It  has  one 
idome.  There  is  an  octagonal  tower  at 
pach  front  comer.  A  short  distance 
to  the  S.E.  are  the  remains  of  Bhuri 
Xhan's  palace,  namely,  the  gateway 
M  part  of  the  fa9ade.  Just  beyond 
the  N.W.  comer  of  the  mausoleum  at 
Sikandarah  is  an  old  Hindu  boundary 
stone  with  a  Nagari  inscription,  which 
gives  the  date  1494. 

A  good  road — the  one  used  by  the 
peat  Akbar  himself — leads  W.  from 
Agra  through  a  shady  avenue  to  22J  m. 

FATEHPUR  -  SIKRI,  a^c  D.B.  (The 
nearest  rly.  stas.  are  Achnera  June, 
12  m.,  and  Bhurtpur,  11  m.  No 
carriages  at  either  place.) 

Proceeding  to  the  W.  from  Agra 
tbrough  Shahganj,  observe  at  the  en- 
trance to  it  the  ruins  of  a  mosque,  with 
sn  inscription  saying  it  was  built  in 
1621,  the  16th  year  of  Jehangir's  reign. 
:  It  marks  the  site  of  the  old  Ajmere 

Kte.  Farther  on  is  a  Muslim  cemetery, 
lown  as  Mnjdi  ka  Gumbaz,  where  is 
the  tomb  of  Mirza  Hindal,  son  of  Babar, 
fether  of  Akbar's  chief  wife.  At  the 
foot  of  the  tomb  is  a  monolith  7  ft. 
high,  with  the  date  1670. 
[India] 


The  royal  and  now  deserted  city  of 
Fatehpur-Sikri,  standing  on  a  low 
sandstone  ridge,  was  essentially  Akbar's, 
the  whole  being  begun  (1570)  and  com- 
pleted during  his  reign  ;  owing  to  this 
fact  and  on  account  of  its  very  perfect 
state  of  preservation  it  forms  a  uni(ju« 
specimen  of  a  city  in  the  exact  condition 
in  which  it  was  occupied  by  the  Great 
Mogul  and  his  court.  It  is  hard  to 
say  what  induced  Akbar  to  build  at 
Fatehpur-Sikri,  possibly  because  after 
the  death  of  twin  sons  it  was  prog- 
nosticated by  Salim  Chisti,  an  old 
saint  residing  there,  that  another  would 
be  bom  to  him  who  would  survive.  As 
foretold,  this  was  the  case,  and  the 
child,  called  Salim  after  the  hermit, 
eventually  ascended  the  throne  as 
Jehangir.  Akbar  gave  the  town  the 
prefix  **  Fatehpur  "  (city  of  victory)  to 
commemorate  nis  conquest  of  Guzcrat. 

Beyond  the  period  of  Akbar's  occu- 
pation, Fatehpur-Sikri  has  no  local 
nistory  worth  mentioning.  The  British 
Government  had  a  tahsil  here  as  late 
as  1850,  when  it  was  removed  to  Karaoli 
on  the  ground  of  unhealthiness.  Dur- 
ing the  Mutiny  it  was  twice  occupied 
by  Neemuch  and  the  Nusseerabad  rebels 
between  July  and  October  1857. 

From  the  arrangement  of  the  build- 
ings it  is  evident  that  Akbar  had  the 
whole  carefully  planned  out.  This 
will  be  seen  by  the  position  of  the 
Khwabgah,  Akbar's  private  room, 
which  commands  the  DafUr  Khana, 
Record  Office,  and  the  whole  of  the 
principal  buildings.  From  it  he  could 
reach,  without  being  observed,  "Jodh 
Bai " — by  a  covered  way  pulled  down 
during  19th  century  restorations — 
Miriam's  House,  Bir  Bal's,  Panch 
Mahal,  Turkish  Sultana's  Hou8e,Council 
Chamber,  etc.  etc.  On  entering  the 
city  by  the  Agra  gate,  the  traveller  will 
see  the  remains  of  an  old  building 
formerly  used  by  merchants.  Proceed- 
ing up  the  road,  which  lies  between 
mounds  of  debris  and  ruins,  he  passes 
beneath  the  Nawbat  Ehana,  from  the 
upper  rooms  of  which  musicians  played 
as  Akbar  entered  the  city.  Farther  1. 
are  the  remains  of  the  'Hr^asiiry,  and 
opposite  it  what  is  known  traditionally 
as  the  Hint,  a  large  quadrangular  build* 


178 


HOUTE  9.      JEYFOBE  TO  AGBA 


Ifdia 


ing.  Just  in  fifont  of  this  is  the  Diwan- 
i-'Am,  measuring  some  366  ft.  from  N. 
to  S.  by  181  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
surrounded  by  a  flat-roofed  cloister. 
On  the  W.  side  is  the  hall,  with  a  deep 
verandah  in  front,  from  which  Akbar 
delivered  his  judgments  in  the  presence 
of  the  assembled  crowd  below.  He 
stood  between  two  pierced  stone  screens 
of  fine  geometric  design,  extant  but 
restored.      The   room    behind    has    a 


in  Persian  (much  defaced)  to  -the  Em- 
peror. Originally  the  chamber  was 
painted.  Below  is  a  room,  and  in  it  a 
platform  supported  by  two  splendid 
red  sandstone  shafts  beautifoUy  carved. 
Probably  the  Hindu  priest  lived  here. 
W.  is  a  door  which  led  to  the  Dafter 
Khana  (see  above),  and  by  it  the 
officers  and  others  could  enter  the 
Khwabgah.  The  space  to  the  N. 
formed  the  Ehas  Mahal. 


PLAN  OF 

FATEHPUR  SIKRI 


ATurkish 
Bath 

...    ^J^9S40UJ  (Record  Ojyu 

rr^ki-^''      B&ol.^        Eefebence 

1.  Shaik  Salira  Chisti's  Daigah 

2.  Panch  Mahal 

3.  Diwan-i-'Ara 

4.  Jodh  Bai's  Palace 

5.  Diwan-i-Khas 

6.  Birbal's  House 

7.  Miriam's  House 

8.  Camel  and  Horse  Stable 

9.  Turkish  Bath 

10.  Sultana's  Apartment 

11.  Large  Octagonal  B4oli 

12.  Gate  of  Victory 

WaUter&BotUaUsc. 


peculiar  roof,  which  was  painted.  The 
road  leads  through  the  courtyard  to  the 
Dafter  Ehana,  or  Record  Office,  now 
the  D.B.  On  the  back  is  a  staircase 
leading  to  the  roof,  from  which  there  is 
a  fine  view  of  the  city.  The  inner 
stone  partition  walls  are  modern.  In 
front,  facing  N.,  is  Akbar's  Khwab- 
gah, or  Sleeping  Apartment,  literally 
**  House  of  Dreams."  Written  on  the 
internal  walls  over  the  architraves  of 
the  doors  are  some  complimentary  verses 


At  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  courtyard 
is  the  ''Turkish  Queen's"  House, 
thought  by  most  people  to  be  the  most 
interesting  apartment  of  all.  As  it 
now  stands  it  consists  of  only  one  small 
chamber  15  x  16  ft.  Every  square  inch 
is  carved,  including  the  soffits  of  the 
cornices.  Tlie  ceiling  and  decoration 
of  the  verandah  pillars  and  pilasters 
are  exceptionally  fine.  Inside  is  a  most 
elaborate  dado  about  4  ft.  high,  con- 
sisting of  8  sculptured  panels  repre- 


EOUTE  I 


FATEHPUR-SIKRI 


179 


aenting  forest  views,  aniinal  life,  etc. 
Above,  the  wall  takes  the  form  of  a 
stone  lattice  screen,  the  divisions  of 
which  were  used  as  shelves.  Mnch  of 
the  carving  is  curiously  like  Chinese 
work. 

W.  is  the  Oirls'  School,  a  small  plain 
huilding  carried  on  square  stone  piers. 
In  front  is  an  open  square,  upon  the 
stone  flags  of  which  is  Akbar's  Pachisi- 
board,  with  his  stone  seat  in  the  centre. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross  and  is  laid 
out  in  coloured  pavement  It  is  said 
the  game  was  played  with  slave  girls  to 
take  the  moves,  as  we  use  ivory  pieces 
on  a  chess-board. 

At  the  N.  of  the  quadrangle  is  the 
Diwan-i-Ehas,  or  "Private  Hall,"  or 
Council  Chamber.  From  the  outside 
it  appears  to  be  two  stories  high,  but 
on  entering  it  is  found  to  consist  of  one 
only,  with  a  central  pillar  crowned  by 
an  immense  circular  corbelled  capital, 
ladiating  from  which  to  the  4  comers 
of  the  building  are  4  stone  causeways 
enclosed  by  open  trellis  stone  balus- 
trades (restored).  Tradition  says  that 
m  the  centre  of  this  capital  the  Emperor 
sat  whilst  the  comers  were  occupied  by 
his  4  ministers.  The  shaft  is  oeauti- 
Mly  carved,  and  should  be  carefully 
itudied.  On  the  E.  and  W.  sides  are 
stone  staircases  communicating  with 
the  root  The  open  screen-work  in  the 
windows  is  modem.  A  few  feet  to  the 
"W.  is  the  building  known  as  the  AtUc 
MicJumli,  and  the  story  told  is  that 
the  Emperor  here  played  hide-and- 
seek  with  the  ladies  of  the  Court ;  but 
it  was  most  likely  used  for  records. 
It  consists  of  8  large  lofty  rooms  sur- 
rounded by  narrow  passages,  lighted 
by  stone  screen  windows.  The  ceSings 
of  2  of  the  rooms  are  coved,  but  the 
3d  is  flat  and  supported  on  struts  orna- 
mented with  grotesque  carving.  In 
front,  on  the  S.E.  comer,  is  a  small 
canopied  structure  used  by  the  astro- 
loger, who  probably  was  a  Hindu  Guru, 
or  **  teacher."  It  is  after  the  style  of 
architecture  used  by  the  Hindus  dur- 
ing the  nth  and  12th  cents.  Under 
the  architraves  are  curiously  carved 
struts  issuing  from  the  mouths  of 
aonstep  dowelled  into  the  shafts 
at  the  comers.    The  under  side  of  the 


dome  was  painted.  Adjoining  these 
buildings  to  the  W.  is  the  HospitaL 
Some  of  the  stone  partitions  forming 
the  wards  are  extant.  The  ceilings 
are  of  solid  slabs  of  stone,  carved  on 
the  outside  to  represent  tiles. 

From  here  is  next  seen  the  Panch 
Mahal,  a  5-8toried  colonnade,  each  tier 
being  smaller  than  the  one  below,  till 
notlung  but  a  small  kiosque  remains 
atop.  It  was  probably  erected  for  the 
ladies  of  the  court  as  a  pleasure  resort, 
as  the  sides  were  originally  enclosed 
with  stone  screens :  these  were  removed 
during  modern  restorations,  when  the 
solid  stone  parapets  were  replaced  by 
the  pierced  ones  as  at  present  seen,  and 
the  positions  of  the  staircases  were 
altered.  The  first  floor  is  remarkable 
on  account  of  the  variety  of  the  56 
columns  which  support  the  story 
above,  no  two  are  alike  in  design. 
Many  of  the  shafts  are  similar,  but  the 
caps  vary:  at  the  angles  of  one  are 
elephants*  heads  with  interlaced  trunks, 
on  another  a  man  gathering  fruit.  On 
the  N.W.  angle  is  a  group  of  4  which 
should  be  examined.  From  the  top- 
most floor  there  is  a  splendid  view. 

S.  and  a  little  to  W.  of  the  Panch 
Mahal  is  the  House  of  Miriam  (said  to 
have  been  Akbar's  Portuguese  Christian 
wife,  but  more  probably  a  Hindu 
princess),  a  small  building  with  defaced 
frescoes  in  the  niches  and  upon  the 
walls,  and  piers  of  verandah.  One,  in 
which  the  wings  of  angels  are  distinctly 
visible,  suggests  the  Annunciation.  At 
one  time  the  whole  house  was  painted 
inside  and  out.  The  original  name 
Sunahra  Makan,  or  "Golden  House," 
was  given  it  on  account  of  the  profuse 
gilding  with  which  its  walls  were 
adorned.  On  the  N.W.  is  Miriam's 
Garden,  and  at  S.E.  angle  her  bath, 
with  a  larffe  column  in  the  centre.  On 
the  W.  side  is  the  Naginah,  or  Zenana, 
Mosque,  and  the  remains  of  a  small 
Turkish  bath.  At  the  S.  end  of 
garden  is  a  small  fish  tank,  which,  to- 
gether with  the  stone  pavement  of  the 
garden,  was  brought  to  light  by  Mr.  E. 
W.  Smith  of  the  Arch.  Survey,  1891. 

To  the  N.W.  a  road  leads  to  the 
Hathi  Pol  (Elephant  Gate)  on  the  Kw 
of  the  city.     Over  the  "W.  archway,  20 


180 


ROUTE  9.      JEYPORE  TO  AGRA 


tnMn 


ft.  from  the  grotmd,  are  2  life-sized 
elephants  much  mutilated  (probably 
hy  Aurangzib).  To  the  1.  is  the 
Bnngin  Bnij,  a  groined  bastion  or  keep, 
said  to  have  b^n  the  commencement 
of  the  fortifications  planned  by  Akbar, 
but  abandoned  on  account  of  objections 
raised  by  Saint  Shlim  Ohisti.  *  Down 
the  old  stone  paved  road  on  the  L  is 
the  Karwan  Sarai  (caravanserai).  It 
consists  of  a  large  court  272  x  246  fb. 
surrounded  by  the  merchants'  hostels. 
Formerly  the  S.E.  side  was  3  stories 
high.  At  the  K.  end,  beyond  the 
Sarai,  stands  the  Hiran  Ulnar  (Deer 
Minaret),  a  circular  tower  some  70  ft. 
high  studded  with  protruding  elephants' 
tnsks  of  stone.  Tradition  says  that  it 
is  erected  over  the  grave  of  Akbar's 
favourite  elephants,  and  that  from  the 
lantern  in  tne  top  the  Emperor  shot 
antelope  and  other  game  brought  up  by 
beaters,  hence  its  name.  The  land  to 
the  N.  and  W.  was  a  large  lake  in 
Akbar's  time. 

On  the  1.  of  the  road  returning  to 
the  Hathi  Pol  is  a  very  fine  stone 
well  surrounded  by  rooms  and  stair- 
cases which  formed  a  part  of  the 
waterworks.  The  water  was  lifted 
from  this  level  by  Persian  wheels 
and  a  system  of  reservoirs  to  the 
arched  gate  on  the  N.W.  comer  of 
Bir  Bal's  House,  and  thence  dispensed 
throughout  the  palace. 

The  palace  of  Birbal  is  to  the  S.W. 
of  Miriam's  Garden  (see  above).  It  is 
the  finest  residence  in  Fatphpur-Sikri, 
and  was  built  by  Rajah  Bir  Bal  for  his 
daughter.  It  is  a  2-8toried  building  of 
red  sandstone  standing  on  a  raised 
platform,  and  consists  of  4  rooms  15 
ft.  sq.  and  2  entrance  porches  on  the 
ground  floor  and  2  above  with  small 
terraces  in  front  of  them,  enclosed  by 
stone  screens,  forming  a  ladies'  pro- 
menade. Over  the  upper  rooms  are 
fiat-ribbed  cupolas,  carried  on  octagonal 
drums  and  supported  on  richly  orna- 
mented corbel  brackets  stretching 
across  the  angles  of  the  rooms  ;  and  the 
stone  panelled  walls  and  niches  are 
covered  with  intricate  patterns.  The 
ceilings  of  the  lower  rooms  are  supported 
on  a  fine  and  unique  frieze,  and  the 
whole  of  the  interior,  pilasters,  recesses, 


walls,  and  cusp-arched  doorways  ars  • 
elaborately  and  beautifully  carved  with  ! 
geometrical    patterns.      The    exterior 
walls  are   almost  as  profusely  orna- 
mented.    No  wood  has  been  used  in 
the  construction  of  this  extraordinary 
building,  to  which  the  words  of  Victor 
Hugo  have  been  applied :  **  If  it  were 
not  the  most  minute  of  palaces,  it  was 
the    most    gigantic    of  jewel-cases." 
Rajah  Birbal  was  celebrated  for  his  wit 
and  learning,  and  was  the  only  Hindu 
of  eminence  who  embraced   the  new 
religion    of   Akbar,    whose    favonrite 
courtier  he  was.     He  perished  with  the  '• 
whole  of  the  army  he  was  commanding  ; 
in  the  Yusufzye  country  to  the  N.R  | 
of  Peshawar  in  1586. 

S.  of  Bir  Bal's  house  are  the  StablM ; 
for  102  horses  and  nearly  as  many| 
camels.  In  some  of  the  mangers  stone 
rings  for  the  horses'  halters  stul  remain, 
and  on  the  N.W.  side  one  of  the  old 
doors.  The  camel  stables  are  lighted 
by  openings  in  the  roof. 

The  Palace  of  Jodh  Bai,  erroneously 
so  called,  was  probably  used  by  the 
Emperor  or  by  his  chief  wife  Sultana 
Rukia.  It  adjoins  the  stables,  but  the 
entrance  is  on  the  E.  from  the  open 
space  in  front  of  the  Record  Ojfice,  It 
is  a  quadrangular  building,  232x215 
ft.  The  courtyard  within  has  recep- 
tion rooms  on  tne  N.,  S.,  and  W.  sides 
connected  by  a  flat -roofed  corridor 
partly  closed  by  stone  walls.  The 
room  on  the  "W.  is  more  ornate  than 
the  others,  and  in  the  rear  wall  is  a 
fireplace.  There  are  chambers  above, 
and  those  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  rise 
to  2  stories :  they  are  gable-roofed  and 
ornamented  with  blue  enamelled  tiling. 
At  the  angles  the  chambers  are  sur- 
mounted by  cupolas,  originally  painted. 

Overlooking  Miriam's  Garden  is  a 
small  room,  the  walls  of  which  are 
entirely  composed  of  beautiful  stone 
lattice- work.  From  the  mezzanine  floor 
on  the  N.  side  a  closed  passage  leads  to 
a  garden  abutting  on  the  waterworks, 
beside  which  a  gallery  passed  to  the 
N.  side  of  the  Sarai  near  the  Hiran 
Minar.  It  is  now  in  ruins,  and  not 
easy  of  identification.  In  the  pass- 
age, and  just  before  the  garden  is 
reached,  is  a  very  fine  stone  sorecn 


BOCrTi:  9.      FATSHPUIHBIKRI 


181 


beneath  a  bquiII  cupola  which  should 
be  seen. 

The  Bargah  and  Mosque  are  S.  W.  of 
the  Record  Office.  The  £.  gate,  called 
the  Badshahi,  or  "royal"  gate,  opens 
into  the  great  quadrangle.  To  the  rt  is 
the  Tomb  or  JDargah  of  Shaik  Salim 
Chisti,  the  Nawasa  or  grandson  of  Shak- 
bar  GaDJ  Shah,  who  is  buried  at  Pak 
Patan.  It  is  surrounded  by  beautiful 
white  marble  lattice-work  screens,  and 
has  doors  of  solid  ebony,  ornamented 
with  brass.  Within,  the  building  is 
marble  only  for  the  first  4  ft  Thecanopy 
over  the  tomb  of  the  saint  is  inlaid  with 
mother-of-pearl,  hung  with  the  usual 
display  of  ostrich  eggs.  On  the  ceno- 
taph is  written  the  date  of  the  saint's 
dfittth  and  the  date  of  the  completion  of 
the  building,  1580,  "May  God  hallow 
his  tomb  !  The  beloved  helper  of  the 
sect  and  its  saint,  Shaik  Salim,  whose 
miraculous  gifts  and  propinquity  to  the 
Divine  Being  are  celebrated,  and  by 
whom  the  lamp  of  the  family  of  Chisti 
illuminated.  Be  not  double-sighted, 
looking  to  the  transitory  self,  as  well 
as  to  the  everlasting  Deity.  The  year 
of  his  decease  is  known  throughout  the 
world."  This  last  line  is  the  chrono- 
gram.^ 

The  brackets  which  support  the  drip- 
atone  or  eaves  of  the  tomb  are  copies  of 
those  in  the  old  mosque  of  the  stone- 
masons outside  the  quadrangle  and  W. 
of  the  mosque,  where  Shaik  Salim  lived 
Ids  hermit  life  in  a  cave  now  covered 
by  a  room.  In  a  portico  on  the  right 
the  saint  taught  his  disciples  before 
the  place  had  attracted  the  notice  of 
royalty.  Childless  women,  both  Hindu 
and  Mohammedan,  resort  to  the  tomb 
and  pray  the  saint  to  intercede  in  their 
favour.  On  the  N.  of  the  quadrangle 
is  also  the  tomb  of  Islam  Khan,  sur- 
mounted with  a  cupola ;  he  was  the 
grandson  of  the  saint,  and  Governor  of 
Bengal. 

The  Mosque  proper,  to  the  W.,  is  said 
to  be  a  copy  of  the  one  at  Mecca.  It 
is  about  70  ft.  high,  and  very  beautiful. 
It  consists  of  8  interior  square  chambers 
surrounded  by  rows  of  lofty  pillars  of 

1  All  the  inscriptions  here  may  be  found 
in  the  Jfi/taAu  *l  TawaHkh,  by  John  Ellis, 
pzin^  at  A^. 


Hindu  type.  At  the  K.  and  S.  en4i 
are  zenana  chambers.  Going  out  by 
a  door  at  the  back  of  the  mosque,  in  an 
enclosure  on  the  right  is  an  infant'a 
tomb,  said  to  be  that  of  the  saint's  son, 
whose  life  was  sacrificed  at  the  age  of 
6  months  in  order  that  Akbar's  son 
(Jehangir)  might  liw  when  bom.  At 
the  S.  of  the  quadrangle  is  the  Gate  of 
Viotory,  Buland  Daxwazah  ("high 
gate  "),  which  towers  to  the  height  of 
1 30  ft  Fergusson  says  that  when  looked 
at  from  below  its  appearance  is  noble  be- 
yond that  of  any  portal  attached  to  any 
mosque  in  India,  perhaps  in  the  whole 
world.  Thegrandeur  of  thisgreat height 
is  increased  by  a  vast  flight  of  steps  on 
the  outside,  giving  a  total  height  of 
160  ft.     Fine  view  from  the  top. 

In  the  archwajr  is  an  inscription  on 
the  left  hand  going  out,  which  says 
that  the  "King  of  Kings,  Shadow  of 
God,  Jalalu-din,  Muhammad  Akbar, 
the  Emperor,  on  his  return  from  con-' 
quering  the  kingdoms  of  the  S.,  and 
Khandesh,  formerly  called  Dhandesh, 
came  to  Fatehpur  in  the  46th  year  of 
his  reign,  corresponding  to  1601  a.d., 
and  proceeded  from  thence  to  Agra." 
On  the  opposite  side  is  inscribed  "  Isa 
(Jesus),  on  whom  be  peace,  said :  *  The 
world  is  a  bridge,  pass  over  it,  but 
build  no  house  on  it.  The  world  en- 
dures but  an  hour,  spend  it  in  devo- 
tion.*" The  doors  of  this  great  gate- 
way are  studded  with  horse-shoes,  affixed 
by  the  owners  of  sick  horses  who  im- 
plore the  prayers  of  the  saint  for  their 
recovery.  From  the  steps,  or  better 
still,  from  the  summit  of  the  gate,  may 
be  seen  the  villages  of  Sikri  and  Fateh- 
pur, and  a  tract  of  dry  and  barren 
countiy.  It  is  supposed  that  it  was 
the  want  of  water  which  caused  Fateh- 
pur to  be  deserted.  In  front  of  the 
steps  are  some  Turkish  baths.  N.  of 
the  Dargah  and  outside  the  mosque 
are  the  houses  of  the  brothers  Abu  '1 
Fazl  and  Faizi,  the  famous  and  learned 
favourites  of  Akbar  and  followers  of  his 
new  religion.  These  are  now  turned 
into  a  boys*  school.  They  consist  of 
several  rooms  ;  in  one  Hindu  and  Urdu 
are  taught,  in  another  English,  and  in 
a  third  Persian  and  Arabic.  What  is 
now  the  English  class-rooip  was  tJi9 


182 


BOtTTB  10.      AGRA  TO  BINDaABAH 


hMa 


EeiuuuL  To  the  W.  of  Bnland  Dar- 
wazah  is  a  large  well,  into  which  boys 
and  men  spring  from  the  walls,  from 
heights  Ya^^g  from  80  to  80  ft.  A 
M^B^  or  fair,  commences  on  the  20th 
of  BamzaUt  the  anniversary  of  the 
saint's  death,  and  lasts  for  8  days. 

A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Becord 
Office  is  the  Haldm,  or  doctor's  house, 
and  a  very  large  and  fine  Huxnmam, 
the  walls  and  ceilings  of  which  are 
richly  ornamented  with  stamped  plaster- 
work.  To  the  rt.  on  leavinf  and  ad- 
joining the  Nusseerabad  road  is  a  spa- 
cious and  interesting  Baoli,  from  which 
the  baths  and  this  part  of  the  city  were 
supplied.  Leading  to  a  well  at  one 
end  is  a  broad  staircase  enclosed  on 
each  side  by  rooms.  Around  the  weU 
are  chambers  for  Persian  wheels  for 
drawing  the  water.* 

The  Nussecrabad  road  is  stone  pared, 
and  leads  through  the  market  to  the 
Tehra  Gate.  On  the  outside  is  a  tomb 
with  small  mosque  and  'Idgah,  but 
they  are  not  of  much  importance. 


ROUTE  10 

Agra  to  Bindbabak  by  Achnera 
JuNc.  AND  MuTTRA  (with  excur- 
sions to  Mahaban  and  Dig). 


era  June.  sta.  (17  m.  W.  of  Agra), 
on  the  B.  B.  and  0.  I.  Rly.  (see 
p.  147). 

From  Achnera  to  Muttra  is  23  m., 
from  Hathras  junc.  (97  m.  S.  of  Delhi) 
to  Muttra  is  29  m. 

MUTTKA  (or  Mathura)  junc  sta., 
D.B.,  in  the  cantonments  S.  of  the  city 
(the  town  rly.  sta.  is  on  the  branch  line 
to  Bindraban,  8  m.  distant,  see  below). 
Pop.  60,000.  The  city  stretches  for 
about  1)  m.  along  the  right  bank  of 
the  Jumna.  The  Fort,  rebuilt  in  Ak- 
1  Fathepur  Sikri  has  been  extensively  illns- 
trated  in  4  vols,  of  the  ArchaUogicai  Survey 
Reports  by  Mr.  E.  W.  Bipith. 


bar's  time,  is  in  the  centre :  only 
substructure  remains.  The  Jail 
Collector's  Office  are  If  m.  to  the  BS 
beyond  the  town,  and  1  m.  to  tbe  W* ' 
of  the  town  is  a  Jain  temple  and  m 
large  mound  of  bricks  called  Ghannutf! 
Tila.  In  a  line  with  the  Jain  temple^': 
but  bordering  on  the  town,  is  the  Kata^ 
mound  (see  oelow),  and  about }  m.  tor 
the  S.  is  another  mound  caUed  TfMh^if^ 
and  to  the  S.W.,  at  distances  varyiiii^ 
from  }  m.  to  1  m.,  are  five  moonS 
called  the  Chaubarah  mounds.^  Thai 
are  3  Charches— the  Anglican  "Cbral 
Church,"  the  Roman  Catholic  Cliurcl^| 
and  a  Presbyterian  Church.  The  formcc 
contains  several  interesting  monv 
ments. 

The  city  is  entered  by  the  Hardin(^ 
Gate,  also  called  Holi  Gate,  built  ^ 
the  municipality.  The  finely -carTel 
stonework  ia9ades  of  the  better  class  el 
houses  are  well  worthy  of  inspectioi^^ 
and  are  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  thftj 
city.  I 

The  River  and  Ohats.-— Even  in  tbtj 
beginning  of  May  the  Jumna  is  heitl 
800  yds.  broad.  There  is  a  payed  streel 
the  whole  way  along  it,  with  bathiu* 
ghats,  descending  to  the  water,  ani' 
ornamental  chabutarahs,  or  platforms^ 
and  small  but  well-proportioned  ps* 
vilions.  Generally  speaking,  the  men 
bathe  at  separate  ghats  from  the 
women. 

The  river  is  full  of  turtles,  some  d 
them  very  large,  poking  their  long 
necks  and  heads  out  to  be  fed.  Ahoat 
80  yds,  W.  of  the  bridge  is  the  fine 
House  of  the  Guru  Parshotamdas. 
Then  comes  another  belonging  to  a 
Guzerati,  called  Ballamdas.  Opposite 
to  this,  on  the  farther  bank  of  the  river, 
is  the  flourishing  village  of  Hans  (JtBJ, 
or  "Swan  borough,"  and  N.  of  this 
again  is  a  stone  tower,  55  ft.  high, 
called  the  Sati  Buxj,  because  when 
Hans  was  killed  by  Knshna,  his  widow 
committed  scUi  here.  Growse,  p.  97, 
says  it  was  the  wife  of  Rajah  Bh&r 
Mai,  of  Amber,  mother  of  Bhagwan- 
das,  who  built  it  in  1570  a.d.  The 
traveller  now  descends  several  steps  to 

1  All  these  places  will  be  fonnd  mentioned 
by  General  Cunningham  in  vol.  iii.  of  bis  Art^ 
Survey  Reports,  p.  IS,  and  also  in  vo).  i.  p.  209> 


ROUTE  10.       MT7TTRA 


183 


at  Ghat,  a  little  N.  of  the  Sati 
i  80  to  a  sort  of  square,  where 
a  are  weighed  against  gold, 
a  small  white  marble  arch 
je  to  the  river.  Beyond  this 
built  by  Jai  Sing,  of  Jeypore, 
enormous  house  and  temple- 
^  to  Seth  Lakshman  Das,  i.e. 
th  Govind  Das. 
amma  Musjid,  once  corered 
austic  tiles,  stands  high.     Its 

14  ft.  above  the  level  of  the 
Dn  either  side  of  the  facade  of 
way  are  Persian  lines.  The 
Eun  gives  the  date  1660-61. 

fa9ade  of  the  mosque  proper 
9  names  of  God.  At  the  sides 
pavilions  roofed  in  the  Hindu 
There  are  four  minarets,  which 
rt.  high.  At  the  entrance  to 
f  the  town  is  the  'Idgah  (the 
les  should  be  observed),  and 
n.  to  the  W.  of  the  town  is 
latra,  which  is  an  enclosure 
;  of  a  sarai,  804  ft  long  by 
road.  Upon  a  terrace  stands 
red  stone  mosque,  the  most 
3US  object  in  a  distant  view  of 

There  is  another  terrace  5  ft. 
here  are  votive  tablets  in  the 
taracter,  dated  Samwat  1713- 
I  this  site  stood  the  great 
f  Eesaya  Rao,  which  Tavemier 
the  beginning  of  Aurangzib's 
)parently  about  1659  A.D.,  and 
i  describes  as  very  magnificent, 
hat  it  ranked  next  after  the 

of   Jagannath   and    Benares 

pt.  ii.  bk.  iii.  oh.  12,  French 
Cunningham,  Reports,  vol.  iii. 
In  the  Katra  mound  a  number 
listic  remains  have  been  found 
ral  Cunningham  and  others, 
y  a  broken  Buddhist  railing 
rith  the  figure  of  Maya  Devi 
;  under  the  Sal  tree,  and  also 

on  which  was  inscribed  the 
)wn  genealogy  of  the  Gupta 

from  Shri  Gupta,  the  founder, 

>  Samudra  Gupta,  where  the 

15  broken  off.  He  also  found 
o  the  wall  of  a  well,  one  of  the 

curved  architraves  of  a  Bud- 
bteway,  and  an  inscription  on 

>  of  a  statue  of  Shakya  dated 
281,  or  224  a.d.,  in  which 


the  Yasa  Vihara  is  mentioned.  Two 
capitals  of  columns,  one  no  less  than  S 
ft.  in  diameter,  were  also  found.  A 
fragment  of  the  larger  one  is  still  to  be 
seen  lying  inside  the  gateway.  At  the 
back  of  the  Eatra  is  a  modem  temple 
to  Eesava,  and  close  by  is  the  Potara- 
Eund,  a  tank  in  which  Krishna's  baby 
linen  was  washed.  This  tank  is  faced 
throughout  with  stone,  and  has  flights 
of  stone  steps  down  to  the  water.  There 
is  also  a  very  steep  ramp  down  where 
horses  go  to  be  washed. 

In  the  New  Museum,  erected  by 
public  subscription,  at  the  suggestion 
of  Mr.  Mark  Thornhill,  is  the  carving 
which  Mr.  Growse  calls,  p.  101,  "the 
most  refined  and  delicate  work  of  the 
kind  ever  executed." 

The  best  piece  of  sculpture  in  the 
Museum  is  the  Yasa-ditta  statue  of 
Buddha.  The  face  is  really  beautiful, 
more  artistic  than  that  of  any  figure 
yet  discovered,  but  the  nose  has  been 
broken  off ;  the  most  curious  object  is 
a  carved  block  representing  a  Bacchanal 
group.     Immediately  opposite  are  the 

Public  Gardens,  and  a  little  farther 
on  is  the  Jail. 

When  Fa  Hian  travelled  in  the  end 
of  the  4th  century  and  the  beginning 
of  the  5th,  he  halted  a  whole  month  at 
Muttra,  and  found  that  there  were  20 
Buddhist  monasteries  with  3000  monks  ; 
but  when  Hiouen  Thsang  visited  the 
place  in  634  a.d.  the  number  had  de- 
clined to  2000,  whence  it  appears  that 
Buddhism  was  even  then  on  the  wane. 
It  had  wholly  disappeared  when  Mah- 
mud  of  Ghazni  came  to  Muttra  in  1017 
A.D.  He  remained  there  20  days,  pil- 
laged and  burned  the  city,  and  carried 
off  five  golden  idols,  whose  eyes  were  of 
rubies,  worth  50,000  dinars  =  £26,000. 
A  sixth  idol  of  gold  weighed  1120  lbs., 
and  was  decorated  with  a  sapphire 
weighing  300  Mishkals,  or  3J  lbs. 
There  were  also  100  idols  of  silver, 
each  of  which  loaded  a  camel.  The 
idols  together  were  worth  not  less  than 
£300,000.  The  Brahman  temple  of 
Kesava  Rao  was  built  on  the  very  site 
where  the  great  Buddhist  monastery 
Yasa  Vihara  stood. 

Near  the  Jail  stood  a  mound,  in 
removing  which  to  provide  a  site  for 


4.    il 


lU 


BOUTE  10.      AORA.  TO  BINDBABAN 


India 


thi9  Collector's  Office  and  KagUtratea' 
Courts,  the  most  extensive  duooveries 
were  made.  It  appears  that  on  it 
stood  two  Buddhist  monasteries,  the 
Huvishka  and  the  Kuuda-Suka  Yihara. 
The  latter  is  the  place  where  the  famous 
monkey  which  made  an  offering  to 
Buddha  lumped  into  the  tank  and 
was  killed.  At  this  mound  statues  of 
all  sizes,  bas-reliefs,  pillars,  Buddhist 
rails,  votive  stupas,  stone  umbrellas, 
and  inscriptions  have  been  found. 
One  inscription  is  of  the  1st  century 
B.C.  The  earliest  is  of  the  Satrap 
Sandasa,  and  the  next  of  the  great 
King  Kanishka  in  the  year  9.  The 
left  hand  of  a  colossal  Buddha  has 
been  found,  the  figure  of  which  must 
have  been  24  ft  high.  The  most 
remarkable  piece  of  sculpture  is  that 
of  a  female,  rather  more  than  half 
life  size,  whose  attitude,  and  the 
position  of  whose  hands  resembles 
those  of  the  famous  Venus  of  the 
CapitoL  Cunningham  says  it  is  one 
of  the  best  specimens  of  unaided 
Indian  Art. 

In  the  Chaubarah  mounds,  1^  m.  to 
the  S.W.  of  the  city,  measuring  from 
the  gateway  of  the  Katra,  was  found 
a  golden  casket,  now  in  the  possession 
of  Mr.  F.  S.  Growse.i 

The  most  important  discoveries  at 
Muttra  have  been  made  by  Dr.  FUhrer 
during  his  excavations  at  the  Kankali 
Tila  mound,  which  he  looks  upon  as 
the  site  of  the  Upagupta  monastery 
mentioned  by  Hiouen  Thsang.  The 
remains  of  one  Yaishnava  and  two  Jain 
temples,  and  a  Jain  stupa,  some  49  ft. 
8  in.  in  dia.,  have  been  brought  to 
light,  and  besides  some  hundreils  of 
most  valuable  sculptures,  stupa  rail- 
ings, panels,  etc.,  on  many  of  which 
are  inscriptions  dating  back  before 
the  time  of  Christ.  The  discover- 
ies prove  that  the  national  Indian 
arts  of  architecture  and  sculpture 
flourished  in  a  high  degree  at  Mutti*a, 
and  have  led  to  the  conclusion  that 
play-acting  was  practised  very  early  in 
the  city  of  the  gods.     All  the  objects 

1  For  the  many  other  discoveries  made  in 
different  mounds  near  Muttra  reference  must 
be  made  to  Cunningham's  Bepc/rt,  voL  iii., 
where  they  are  detailed  at  great  length. 


diacovered  have  been  deposited  in  tha 
Lucknow  Museum,^  where  they  can  be 
examined  by  visitors. 

[Mahaban  is  about  6  m.  S.£.  of 
Muttra,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Junma, 
and  is  reached  by  a  good  road.  It  is  a 
very  ancient  town  and  place  of  pil- 
grimage, and  first  emerges  into  modern 
history  in  the  year  1017  A.D.,  when  it 
shared  the  fate  of  Muttra,  and  was 
sacked  by  Mahmud  of  Ghazni.  The 
Hindu  prince  is  said,  when  the  fall  of 
the  town  became  inevitable,  to  have 
solemnly  slain  his  wife  and  children, 
and  then  committed  suicide.  In  1234 
a  contemporary  writer  mentions  Maha- 
ban as  one  of  the  gathering  places  of 
the  imperial  army  sent  by  Sham's-ud- 
din  against  Kalinjar.  It  is  incidentally 
referred  to  by  the  Emperor  Babar  in 
1526. 

The  country  i^ound  about  it,  althou^ 
now  bare  of  woods,  appears  to  have 
once  been  literally  Mahaban^  "  a  great 
forest"  Even  as  late  as  1634,  the 
Emperor  Shah  Jehan  held  a  hunt  here, 
and  killed  four  tigers.  This  ancient 
woodland  country  fringing  the  sacred 
Jumna  is  the  scene  of  very  early  reU- 
^ous  legends.  In  Sanscrit  literature 
it  is  closely  associated  with  Goknl, 
about  a  mile  off,  overhanging  the 
Jumna.  ,  Indeed,  the  scenes  of  the 
youthful  adventures  of  Krishna,  as- 
cribed in  the  Purams  to  Gokul,  are 
actually  shown  at  Mahaban,  about  a 
mile  from  the  river.  Gokul  seems  to 
have  been  originally  the  common  name 
for  the  whole,  although  it  is  now  re- 
stricted to  what  must  have  been  the 
water-side  suburb  of  the  ancient  town. 
'  The  ruins  of  Mahaban  rise  as  a  hill  of 
brick  and  mud,  covering  about  30  acres, 
the  site  of  the  old  fort  The  architect- 
ural remains  combine  Buddhist  and 
Hindu  forms. 

The  most  interesting  relic  at  Maha- 
ban is  the  so-called  Palace  of  Nanda, 
the  foster-father  of  the  changelinf 
Krishna.  It  consists  of  a  coverea 
court,  re-erected  by  the  Mohammedans 
in  the  time  of  Aurangzib  from  ancient 
Hindu  and  Buddhist  materials  to  serve 

1  See  illustrated  description  in  ProoMdiium 
of  the  Archceol.  Devt.  of  the  N.  W.  P. 


BOUTB  10.      DIQ 


185 


$sa  mosque,  and  is  divided  into  4  aisles 
by  5  rows  of  16  pillars,  80  in  all,  from 
which  it  takes  its  popular  name  of 
Assi  Khamba,  or  the  "  Eighty  Hllai-s." 
Many  of  the  capitals  are  curiously 
carved  with  grotesque  heads  and  squat 
figures.  Four  of  them  are  supposed 
to  represent  by  their  sculptures  the  four 
ages  of  the  world.  The  pillar  known 
as  the  Surya  Yug,  or  *' Golden  Age," 
is  covered  with  rich  and  beautiful 
carving;  that  known  as  the  Dwapar 
Yug,  or  "  Second  Age  "  of  the  world  is 
adorned  with  almost  equal  profusion. 
The  Treta  Yug,  or  "Third  Age,"  is 
more  scantily  carved ;  while  the  Kali 
Yug,  or  present  "Iron' Age"  of  the 
world  is  represented  by  a  crude  un- 
sculptured  pillar. 

In  the  Palace  of  Nanda  are  laid  the 
scenes  of  Kiishna's  infancy.  His 
cradle,  a  coarse  structure  covered  with 
red  calico  and  tinsel,  still  stands  in 
the  pillared  hall,  while  a  blue -black 
image  of  the  sacred  child  looks  out 
from  under  a  canopy  against  the  wall. 
The  churn  in  which  Krishna's  foster- 
mother  made  butter  for  the  household 
is  shown,  and  consists  of  a  long  bamboo 
sticking  out  of  a  carved  stone.  A  spot 
in  the  wall  is  pointed  out  as  the  place 
where  the  sportive  milkmaids  hid 
Krishna's  flute.  One  pillar  is  said  to 
have  been  polished  by  his  foster- 
mother's  hand,  as  she  leant  against  it 
when  churning,  and  others  have  been 
equally  polished  by  the  hands  of  genera- 
tions of  pilgrims. 

From  the  top  of  the  roof  there  is  a 
view  over  mounds  of  ruins,  with  the 
Jumna  beyond  showing  its  waters,  at 
intervals,  amid  an  expanse  of  sand, 
high  grasses,  and  rugged  ravines. 
Mahaban  is  still  a  very  popular  place 
of  pilgrimage  amongthe  Hindus.  Thou- 
sands of  Vishnu  worshippers,  mth  yel- 
low-stained clothes,  yearly  visit  the 
scenes  of  the  infancy  of  the  child-god. 
The  anniversary  of  Krishna's  birth  is 
celebrated  during  several  days  in  the 
month  of  Bhadon  (August)  by  a  vast 
concourse  of  people. 

The  riverside  village  of  Gokul,  where 
Yishnu  first  appeared  as  Krishna,  has 
few  relics  of  antiquity.  Its  shrines  and 
temples  are  quite  modern.      It  is  ap- 


proached, however,  by  a  lo£ty  and 
beautiful  flight  of  steps  (ghat)  from  the 
river,  and  for  more  than  three  centuries 
it  has  been  the  headquarters  of  the 
Valjabhacharya  sect,  or  Gokulastha 
Gusains,  whose  founder  preached  here. 
Many  thousands  of  pilgrims,  chiefly 
from  Guzerat  and  Bombay,  yearly  re- 
sort to  this  centre  of  their  faith,  and 
have  built  numerous  temples  of  a 
rather  tasteless  type.] 

[From  Muttra  a  traveller  with  plenty 
of  time  may  make  an  expedition  to  Dig, 
or  Deeg,  a  town  in  the  territory  of  the 
Rajah  of  Bhurtpur,  24  m.  W.  from 
Muttra  by  a  good  road,  and  should  he 
be  going  S.,  he  might  rejoin  the  railway 
at  Bhurtpur,  22  m.  farther ;  but  he 
should  make  all  arrangements  for  the 
journey  before  leaving  Muttra.  At  the 
village  of  GoYardhau,  about  14  m.,  is 
a  celebrated  hill,  which  was  upheld 
by  Krishna  on  one  finger  to  shelter 
the  cowherds  from  a  storm  excited  by 
Indra  as  a  test  of  Krishna's  divinity. 
Here,  on  the  rt.,  is  the  burial-place  of 
the  Bhurtpur  Rajahs,  a  striking  group 
of  tombs,  temples,  and  ghats  buut  on 
the  margin  of  two  vast  tanks,  one  of 
which,  called  the  Munusa  Gunga,  is 
the  resort  of  thousands  of  pilgrims 
during  the  annual  autumn  fair.  The 
chief  chattris  are  those  of  Buldeo  Sing, 
and  of  Suraj  Mall,  the  founder  of  the 
dynasty,  and  his  wives  ;  also  of  Rand- 
hir  and  Bala  Diva  Sing.  Most  of  them 
show  good  specimens  of  carving.  Fer- 
gusson  says  of  one  of  the  temples,  built 
in  Akbar's  reign  :  "  It  is  a  plain  edifice, 
135  ft.  long  bv  35  ft  wide,  externally, 
and  both  in  plan  and  design  singularly 
like  those  Early  Romance  churches 
that  are  constantly  met  with  in  the  S. 
of  Fiance,  belonging  to  11th  and  12th 
centuries." 

For  3  m.  before  reaching  Dig  the 
road  forms  a  sort  of  causeway  above  a 
very  low,  flat  country. 

At  Digif  (or  Deeg)  ths  chief  object 
of  interest  is  the  splendid  Palace,  or 
rather  group  of  palaces,  built  by  Suraj 
Mall  of  Bhurtpur.  Though  his  grand 
design  was  never  completed,  it  surpasses 
all  the  other  fortified  palaces  in  the 
Rajput  states  for  grandeur  of  conception 


186 


BOUTB  10.      AGRA  TO  BINDRABAN 


India 


and  beauty  of  detaiL  Fergusson  greatly 
admires  this  palace,  and  says:  ''The 
glory  of  Deeg  consists  in  the  cornices, 
which  are  generally  double,  a  peculiarity 
not  seen  elsewhere,  and  which  for  extent 
of  shadow  and  richness  of  detail  surpass 
any  similar  ornaments  in  India,  either 
in  ancient  or  modem  buildings.  The 
lower  cornice  is  the  usual  sloping  en- 
tablature almost  uniyersal  in  such 
buildings.  .  .  .  The  upper  cornice, 
which  was  horizontal,  is  peculiar  to  Deeg, 
and  seems  designed  to  furnish  an  ex- 
tension of  the  flat  roof  which  in  Eastern 
palaces  is  usually  considered  the  best 
apartment  of  the  house ;  but  whether 
desired  for  this  or  any  other  purpose, 
it  adds  singularly  to  the  richness  of 
the  effect,  and  by  the  double  shadow 
affords  a  relief  and  character  seldom 
exceeded  even  in  the  East."  The  chief 
pavilions  are  the  Oopal  Bhawan  (where 
travellers  are  allowed  to  lodge,  and  from 
the  roof  of  which  there  is  a  fine  view), 
which  stands  E.  of  the  fine  Kachcha 
Tank  ;  the  Nand  Bhawan,  N.E.  of  this, 
a  fine  hall  20  ft  high;  the  Snraj 
Bhawan,  S.,  88  ft.  long;  the  Harde 
Bhawan,  W.  ;  and  the  Kishn  Bhawan, 
S.E.  All  these  are  highly  decorated, 
and  between  and  around  them  are 
lovely  gardens.  Beyond  and  adjoining 
the  gardens  is  the  large  Bup  Saugar 
Lake. 

The  W.  gate  of  the  Fort  (there  are 
two  gates)  is  i  m.  from  the  Gopal 
Bhawan  :  it  has  12  bastions,  and  a  ditch 
50  ft.  broad.  Beyond  this  is  a  natural 
mound,  about  70  ft.  high,  and  beyond 
that  a  building  which  serves  as  a  prison. 
The  walls  are  very  massive  and  lofty. 
There  are  72  bastions  in  all.  On  the 
N.W.  bastion,  about  80  ft.  high,  is  a 
very  long  cannon. 

Dig  is  celebrated  for  the  battle  fought 
on  the  13th  November  1804,  in  which 
General  Frazer  (see  Mill,  vol.  vi  p.  593) 
defeated  Jeswant  Rao  Holkar's  army. 
The  British  took  87  pieces  of  ordnance 
in  this  battle,  and  lost  in  killed  and 
wounded  about  350  men.  The  remains 
of  Holkar's  army  took  shelter  in  the 
fort  of  Dig. 

On  the  1st  December  following.  Lord 
Lake  joined  the  army  before  Dig,  and 
immediately  commenced  operations  to 


reduce  that  town.  On  the  night  of  the 
•23d  his  troops  captured  an  eminence 
which  commanded  the  city,  but  not 
without  considerable  loss.  The  enemy, 
however,  evacuated  Dig  on  the  follow- 
ing day  and  the  fort  on  the  succeeding 
night,  and  fled  to  Bhurtpur.  ] 

6  m.  from  Muttra  is  Bindxaban  sta. 
(properly,  Vrindaban  literally,  a  forest 
of  tulsi  plantb),  the  place  to  which 
Krishna  removed  from  Gokul. 

There  is  no  reason  to  believe  that 
Bindraban  was  ever  a  great  seat  of 
Buddhism.  Its  most  ancient  temples, 
four  in  number,  date  only  from  the  16th 
cent.,  ** while. the  space  now  occupied 
by  a  series  of  the  largest  and  most 
magnificent  shrines  ever  erected  in 
Upper  India  was  500  years  ago  an 
unclaimed  belt  of  woodland "  (see 
Growse,  p.  174).  The  four  chief  temples 
are  those  of  Gobind  Deva,  Gopi  Nath, 
Jugal  Kishor,  and  Madan  Mohan.  Bin- 
draban is  famous  as  the  place  where 
Krishna  sported  with  the  Gopis  (milk- 
maids), and  stole  their  clothes  when 
they  were  bathing.  The  Jumna  bounds 
the  town  to  the  E.,  and  winds 
pleasantly  round  it.  At  the  entrance 
to  the  town,  on  the  left,  is  the  large 
red  temple,  dating  from  1590,  sacr^ 
to  Oobind  Deva,  which  was  almost  de- 
stroyed by  Aurangzib,  but  has  been 
somewhat  restored  by  the  British 
Government.  "It  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  elegant  temples  in 
India,  and  the  only  one,  perhaps, 
from  which  an  European  architect 
might  borrow  a  few  hints.  The 
temple  consists  of  a  cniciform  porch, 
internally  nearly  quite  perfect,  though 
externally  it  is  not  quite  clear  how  it 
was  intended  to  be  finished.  The  cell, 
too,  is  perfect  internally — used  for 
worship — but  the  sikra  is  gone,  possibly 
it  may  never  have  been  completed. 
Though  not  large,  its  dimensions  are 
respectable,  the  porch  measuring  117 
ft.  E.  and  W.  by  105  ft.  N.  and  S., 
and  is  covered  by  a  true  vault,  built 
with  radiating  arches — the  only  in- 
stance, except  one,  known  to  exist  in 
a  Hindu  temple  in  the  N.  of  India. 
Over  the  four  arms  of  the  cross  the  vault 
is  plain,  and  only  20  ft.  span,  but  in 
the  centre  it  expands  to  35  ft ,  and  is 


B0X7TB  1 1.      DELHI  TO  SIMLA 


187 


craite  equal  in  design  to  the  best 
Gothic  vsulting  known.  It  is  the^ 
external  desi^  of  this  temple,  how- 
ever, which  IS  the  most  remarkable. 
The  angles  are  accentuated  with  sin- 
gular force  and  decision,  and  the 
openings,  which  are  more  than  suffi- 
cient for  that  climate,  are  picturesquely 
arranged  and  pleasingly  divided.  It 
is,  however,  the  combination  of  vertical 
withhorizontal  lines,  covering  the  whole 
surface,  that  forms  the  great  merit  of 
the  design  "  (Fergusson,  Arch,) 

K  is  a  modem  Temple,  built  by  Seth 
Radha  Krishna  and  Seth  Govind  Das 
in  the  Dra vidian  style.  Europeans  are 
not  allowed  to  enter.  The  temple  con- 
sists of  a  vast  enclosing  wall,  with  three 
goporas,  which  are  80  to  90  ft.  high, 
while  the  gates  are  about  55  ft.  Above 
the  W.  gate  is  a  terrace,  commanding 
I  view  of  the  temple. 

This  temple  is  dedicated  to  Shri 
Ranga,  a  name  of  Vishnu  ;  and  figures 
of  Garuda,  the  man-bird  of  Vishnu, 
are  very  conspicuous.  In  the  great 
court  are  two  white  marble  pavilions, 
one  E.  and  one  W.  of  the  tank  ;  and  a 
stone  pavilion  with  a  flat  roof,  sup- 
ported by  sixteen  pillars,  opposite  the 
E.  gopura. 

At  the  back  of  a  temple  which  is 
of  red  stone  (repaired  in  1877  by  the 
Brit  Gov.),  and  •  adjoining  it  on  the 
W.,  are,  at  two  comers,  two  other 
temples  which  resemble  each  other. 
There  is  a  new  temple  adjoining  this 
to  the  W.,  built  by  a  Bengali  Babu. 
It  is  not  tasteful,  but  has  a  finely- 
carved  door. 

The  Madan  Mohan  Temple  stands 
above  a  ghat  on  a  branch  of  the  river. 
Under  two  fine  trees,  a  Ficus  indica  and 
a  NaucUa  orientalis,  is  a  pavilion,  in 
which  many  cobras'  heads  are  repre- 
sented. Shiva  is  said  to  have  struck 
Devi  with  a  stick  here)  when  she 
jumped  off  this  ghat,  and  made  it  a 
place  for  curing  snake  bites.  There  is 
nere  a  Sala^am  (a  species  of  Ammonite 
worshipped  as  a  type  of  Vishnu),  with 
two  footprints,  2  J  in.  long.  This  temple 
is  65  ft.  high,  and  is  in  the  shape  of  a 
cone. 

The  Temple  of  Gopi  Nath  is  thought 
by  Mr.  Growse  to  be  the  earliest  of  the 


series.  It  was  built  by  Raesil  Ji,  who 
distinguished  himself  under  Akbar. 
It  resembles  that  of  Madan  Mohan, 
but  is  in  a  ruinous  condition.  Its 
special  feature  is  an  arcade  of  three 
bracket  arches. 

The  Temple  of  Jngal  Eishor  is  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the 
Kesi  Ghat.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
built  by  Nou-Karan,  a  Chauhan  chief, 
in  1627  A.D.  The  choir  has  pierced 
tracery  in  the  head  of  the  arch,  and 
above  it  a  representation  of  Krishna 
supporting  the  hill  of  Govardhan. 

The  Temple  of  Badha  Ballabh.— 
The  shrine  was  demolished  by  Aurang- 
zeb.    The  ruins  are  fine. 


ROUTE  11 

Dblhi  to  Umballa,  Ealka,  and 
Simla 

There  are  two  railway  routes  from 
Delhi  to  Umballa, 

(a)  The  direct  line  on  the  right  or 
"W.  bank  of  the  Jumna  river  through 
Paniput  and  Kumal,  122  m. 

(ft)  The  line  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
river,  crossing  it  twice,  and  passing 
through  Ghaziabad,  Meemt,  and  Sa- 
haranpur,  162  m. 

Leaving  the  central  station  at  Delhi, 
the  railway  proceeds  over  a  vast  plain  to 

54  m.  Paniput  sta.,  D.B.  Pop. 
27, 547.  The  modem  town  stands  near 
the  old  bank  of  the  Jumna,  upon  a  high 
mound  consisting  of  the  debris  of  earlier 
buildings.  In  the  centre  the  streets  are 
well  paved,  but  the  outskirts  are  low  and 
squaUd.  There  are  the  usual  civil  offices. 
The  town  is  of  very  great  antiquity,  being 
one  of  the  places  ci3led|?ato,  orprasthas, 
demanded  of  Duryodhana  by  Yudish- 
thira,  about  1100  b.o.  It  is  famous 
for  being  the  place  where  three  of  the 
most  decisive  battles  in  India  have 
been  fought ;  but  the  silent  plain  tells 
no  tale,  and  shows  no  sign  of  the  events 
that  have  happened  on  it. 

Here  on  the  21st  April  1626 
Babar  encountered  Ibrahim  Lodi. 
On  the  night  before  the  battle  Babar 
had  sent  out  5000  men  to  make  a 
night   attack  on    the  Afghan  army, 


188 


ROUTE  11.      DELHI  TO  BDOJL 


India 


but  thia  had  failed,  owing  to  a 
delay  on  the  part  of  the  attacking 
force,  which  did  not  reach  the  enemy's 
camp  till  dawn.  With  the  first  streaks 
of  light  next  day  the  Mogul  pickets 
reported  that  the  Afghans  were  ad- 
vancing in  battle  array.  Babar  im- 
mediately prepared  for  action,  and 
appointed  commanders  to  each  divi- 
sion. On  the  right  and  left  of  the 
whole  line  he  stationed  strong  flanking 
parties  of  Moguls,  who,  when  ordered, 
were  to  wheel  round,  and  take  the 
enemy  in  flank  and  rear.  "When  the 
Afghans  arrived  at  the  Mogul  lines 
they  hesitated  for  a  moment,  and 
Babar  availed  himself  of  their  halting 
to  attack  them,  at  the  same  time 
sending  his  flanking  parties,  to  wheel 
round  and  charge  them  in  the  rear. 
Babar's  left  wing  was  roughly  handled, 
but  he  supported  it  by  a  strong  de- 
tachment from  the  centre,  and  the 
Afghans  in  the  end  were  driven  back. 

On  the  right  too  the  battle  was  ob- 
stinately contested.  Babar's  artillery, 
however,  was  very  effective,  and  at 
last  the  Afghans  fell  into  confusion. 
They  maintained  the  battle  till  noon, 
when  they  gave  way  in  all  directions. 
The  rest  was  mere  pursuit  and  slaughter. 
According  to  Mogul  accounts,  15,000 
Afghans  were  left  dead  on  the  field  of 
battle,  and  those  who  fled  from  the 
field  were  chased  as  far  as  Agra.  The 
body  of  Ibrahim  Lodi  was  found  the 
same  afternoon  with  6000  or  6000  of 
his  soldiers  lying  in  heaps  around  him. 
Babar  reached  Delhi  on  the  third  day 
after  the  battle,  and  on  the  Friday 
following  his  name  as  Emperor  was 
read  in  the  public  prayers  at  the 
Grand  Mosque. 

The  Second  great  Battle  was  fought 
in  the  latter  part  of  1556  a.d.,  when 
the  youthful  Akbar,  who  had  just  suc- 
ceeded his  father  the  Emperor  Huma- 
yun,  defeated  Himu,  the  general  of 
Sultan  Muhammad  Shah ' Adil,  nephew 
of  Sher  Shah.  Himu  had  50,000 
cavalry,  and  500  elephants,  besides 
infantry  and  guns ;  but  after  a  well- 
contested  battle  he  was  wounded  in 
the  eye  by  an  arrow,  taken  prisoner, 
and  put  to  death.  This  battle  was 
decisive  of  the  fate  of  the    Afghan 


dynasty  called  the  Sur,  and  establiahed 
•the  fortunes  of  the  House  of  Timur.  • 

The  Third  Battle  took  place  on  the 
7th  of  January  1761  A.D.,  when  the 
whole  strength  of  the  Marathas  was 
crushed  with  terrible  slaughter  by 
Ahmad  Shah  DuranL  All  the  Ma- 
ratha  chieftains  of  note,  Holkar 
Sindia,  the  Gaekwar,  the  Peshwa's 
cousin  and  son,  were  present  with 
their  forces.  The  Maratha  army  is 
said  to  have  amounted  to  15,000  in- 
fantry, 55,000  cavalry,  200  guns,  and 
Pindaris  and  camp-followers,  number- 
ing 200,000  men.  The  Afghan  force 
consisted  of  38,000  infantry,  42,000 
cavalry,  and  70  guns,  besides  numerous 
irregulars ;  but  the  Marathas  had  al- 
lowed themselves  to  be  cooped  up  in 
their  camp  for  many  days.  They  were 
starving,  and  on  the  morning  of  the 
battle  they  marched  out  with  the  ends 
of  then*  turbans  loose,  their  heads  and 
faces  anointed  with  turmeric,  and  with 
every  other  sign  of  despair.  Seodasheo 
Rao,  the  cousin  and  generalissimo  of 
the  Peshwa,  with  Wishwas  Rao,  the 
Peshwa's  eldest  son,  and  Jeswant  Eao 
Powar,  were  opposite  the  Afghan 
Grand  Vazir.  The  great  standard  of 
the  Maratha  nation,  the  BhagvxL 
Jhwnda^  floated  in  the  Maratha  van,  and 
there  were  three  Jaripaikast  or  Grand 
Ensigns,  of  the  Peshwa  in  the  field. 

The  Marathas  made  a  tremendous 
charge  full  on  the  Afghan  centre, 
and  broke  through  10,000  cavalry 
under  the  Vazir,  which  unwisely  re- 
ceived them  without  advancing. 
The  dust  and  confusion  were  so  great 
that  the  combatants  could  only  dis- 
tinguish each  other  by  the  war-cry. 
The  Vazir  Shah  Wall  Khan,  who  was 
in  full  armour,  threw  himself  from  his 
horse  to  rally  his  men,  but  most  of 
the  Afghans  gave  way. 

Ibrahim  ^Khan  Gardi,  who  com- 
manded the  Maratha  artillery,  broke 
the  Rohillas,  who  formed  the  right  wing 
of  the  Mohammedan  army,  and  killed 
or  wounded  8000  of  them.  Ahmad 
Shah  now  evinced  his  generalship; 
he  sent  his  personal  guards  to  rally  tne 
fugitives,  and  ordered  up  his  reserves  to 
support  the  Vazir.  In  this  protracted 
and  close  stru^^le  the  physical  stren^b 


BOtTTEll.      KUtlNAL — THANESAft 


18^ 


of  the  Afghans  was  an  overmatch  for 
tiie  slighter  frames  of  the  Hindus. 

A  little  after  2  p.m.  Wishwas  Rao 
i  was  mortally  wounded,  and  Seo- 
dasheo  Rao,  after  sending  a  secret 
message  to  Holkar,  charged  into  the 
thickest  of  the  fight  and  disappeared. 
Whatever  the  message  to  Holkar  was, 
it  proved  instantaneously  fatal,  for  he 
went  off  and  was  followed  by  the 
Gaekwar.  The  Marathas  then  fled ; 
thousands  were  cut  down,  and  vast 
numbers  were  destroyed  in  the  ditch 
of  their  entrenchment.  The  village 
of  Paniput  was  crowded  with  men, 
women,  and  children,  to  whom  the 
Afghans  showed  no  mercy.  They  took 
the  women  and  children  as  slaves,  and 
after  ranging  the  men  in  lines,  amused 
themselves  with  cutting  off  their  heads. 

76  m.  Komal  sta.,  D.B.  Pop. 
23,000.  This  town  is  traditionally  of 
great  antiquity,  being  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  B[ajah  Kama,  champion  of 
the  Kauravas,  in  the  great  war  of  the 
Mahabharata.  It  was  seized  by  the 
Rajas  of  Jind  in  the  middle  of  the  18th 
century,  and  wrested  from  them  in  1795 
I  by  the  adventurer  George  Thomas.  It 
was  conferred  by  Lord  Lake  in  1808 
upon  Nawab  Muhammad  Khan,  a  Man- 
dil  Pathan.  A  British  cantonment  was 
maintained  here  until  1841,  when  it  was 
abandoned,  probably  owing  to  the  un- 
healthiness  of  the  site,  as  the  W.  Jumna 
Canal,  passing  the  city,  intercepts  the 
drainage  and  causes  malarious  fever.  A 
wall  12  ft.  high  encloses  the  town.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  crooked,  and  the 
water  is  impure.  Jacquemont  speaks  of 
this  town  as  "  an  infamous  sink,  a  heap 
of  every  sort  of  uncleanliness."  He 
adds ;  "  I  have  seen  nothing  so  bad  in 
India,  and  it  is  fair  to  mention  that 
amongst  the  natives  its  filth  was  pro- 
verbial It  has,  however,  a  handsome 
moajue  overtopping  the  wall,  which  is 
worth  a  visit.  A.  government  Stud 
Farm  for  horse  breeding  has  been 
established  in  the  old  barracks.  There 
w  fair  small  game  shooting. 

Kumal  is  famous  as  being  the  place 
where  Nadir  Shah  defeated  the  Mogul 
Emperor  Muhammad  Shah  in  1789. 
He  had  surrounded  his  camp  with 
entrenchments,  which  appeared  so  for- 


midable to  Nadir  that  he  would  not 
permit  his  soldiers  to  attack  them. 
The  battle  lasted  two  hours,  20,000  of 
the  Indian  soldiers  were  killed,  and  a 
much  greater  number  taken  prisoners. 
An  immense  treasure,  a  number  of  ele- 
phants, part  of  the  artillery  of  the 
emperor,  and  rich  spoils  of  every  de- 
scription fell  into  Nadir's  hands.  The 
Persian  loss  is  variously  stated  at  from 
600  to  2500  killed.  The  next  day 
Muhammad  Shah  surrendered  himself 
to  Nadir,  who  marched  to  Delhi,  and 
after  a  massacre  in  the  streets  and  a 
58  days*  sack  returned  to  Persia  with  a 
booty  estimated  at  £32,000,000. 

97  m.  Thanesar,  D.B.  As  many  as 
100,000  persons  have  been  known  to 
assemble  here  on  the  occasion  of  an 
eclipse  of  the  moon,  when  it  is  believed 
that  the  waters  of  all  other  tanks  visit 
the  one  here,  so  that  he  who  bathes  in 
it  at  the  moment  of  eclipse  obtains  the 
additional  merit  of  bathing  in  all  the 
others.  The  Tank  is  about  1  m.  from 
the  rly.  sta.  (To  reach  it,  it  is  necessary 
to  pass  through  part  of  the  town,  see 
below.)  It  is  an  oblong  sheet  of  water 
8546  ft.  in  length,  and  is  not  only  the 
centre  of  attraction  to  pilgrims,  but 
also  the  haunt  of  innumerable  wild- 
fowl from  the  pelican  to  the  snipe.  It 
is  surrounded  by  temples  in  every  stage 
of  decay,  overshadowed  by  great  trees, 
and  flights  of  dilapidated  steps  lead 
down  to  the  water  on  all  sides.  On 
the  W.  a  causeway  stretches  out  to  an 
island  where,  partly  hidden  by  trees, 
the  most  perfect  of  the  temples  stands. 
The  ruins  of  this  causeway  extend 
farther  S.  to  the  remains  of  other 
temples.  Around  the  tank  for  many 
miles  is  holy  ground,  and  popular  belief 
declares  the  holy  places  connected  with 
the  Pandovas  and  Kauravas  and  other 
heroes  to  be  360  in  number. 

The  Town  is  about  J  m.  N.  of  the 
tank,  and  beyond  it  are  extensive  re- 
mains of  the  Mohammedan  Fort.  The 
chief  building  of  interest,  and  that  in 
best  repair,  is  the  white-domed  Tomb  of 
Shaik  Chihli.  It  is  an  octagon  ot 
drab-coloured  marble,  lighted  by  trellis- 
work  windows  of  fine  design.  It  stands 
upon  a  small  octagonal  puitform  in  the 
centre  of  a  larger  one — a  square — sur- 


190 


ROUTE  11.      DELHI  TO  SIMLA 


InAlBL 


rounded  by  cupolas.  In  the  centre  of 
the  W.  side  is  a  small  pavilion  with 
deep  eaves.     It  also  forms  a  tomb. 

S.W.  from  here,  within  a  stone's 
throw,  is  a  small  mosque  of  red  sand- 
stone (the  Lai  MoBJid),  supported  on  8 
columns.  The  carving  on  the  domesand 
elsewhere  is  very  beautiful  and  resembles 
that  at  Fatehpur-Sikri.  Some  of  the 
trees  in  the  neighbourhood  are  very 
fine.  Between  this  and  Delhi — round 
about  Paniput — ^the  rly.  passes  through 
the  country  which  from  the  earliest 
times  formed  the  battle-field  of  India, 
and  the  scene  where,  over  and  over 
again,  her  fate  has  been  decided. 

123  m.  UMBALLA  Cantonment  junc. 
ita.  UmballaCityandCivUStationstc 
are  6  m.  farther  W.  (total  pop.  79,000). 
Theimportantcantonmentswereformed 
in  1843  :  they  cover  7220  acres,  and  are 
laid  out  with  good  roads  and  fine  trees. 
The  centre  is  occupied  by  the  bui^alows 
of  the  residents,  and  to  the  "W.  are  the 
military  lines,  and  the  whole  is  sur- 
rounded by  extensive  Maidans. 

The  Baoe-course  is  on  the  E.  Maidan, 
TKget  Park,  a  favourite  resort,  is  on  the 
N.  There  are  several  good .  European 
shops  in  the  town,  which  is  a  second- 
class  municipal  town,  and  the  capital 
of  a  district. 

The  Church,  which  is  in  the  Gothic 
style,  was  consecrated  in  1857,  and  is 
one  of  the  finest,  if  not  the  finest,  in 
India.  There  is  also  a  Presbyterian 
Chorch,  a  Hospital,  Charitable  Dispen- 
sary, and  a  Leper  Asylum. 

Umballa  and  its  neighbourhood  are 
intimately  connected  with  the  earliest 
dawn  of  Indian  history.  The  strip  of 
country  included  between  the  Saras- 
wati  and  Driahadvati  (Sarasouti  and 
Ghne^r)  is  "the  Holy  Land"  of  the 
Hindu  faith,  the  first  permanent  home 
of  the  Aryans  in  India,  and  the  spot  in 
which  their  r&ligion  took  shape.  Hence 
the  sauctityj  even  in  iiiodem  times,  of 
the  wateiB  of  thti  Sarasouti,  to  which  wor- 
shippers flotik  from  all  parts  of  India. 

35  m.  (from  UmUlIa)  Ealka  sta.,^ 
D.B*  (K),  the  terminus  of  the  railway 
at  the  foot  of  the  hilU,  2400  ft.  above 
sea-lev^L  PasBengers  for  Kdaauli  and 
Simla  her«  separate. 


(1)  For  Kascmlit   travellers  take  a 
jhampan  or  pony  and  follow  the  olA  \ 
Simla  road  (a  bridle-path). 

9  m.  Kasaoli.  3^  This  is  a  canton- 
ment and  convalescent  dep6t  on  the 
crest  of  a  hill  overlooking  the  Ealka 
Valley,  and  6322  ft.  above  sea-level 
The  views  from  Easauli  are  very 
grand  and  extensive. 

This  road  continues  on  through 
Jittogh  (see  below)  to  Simla  (41  m.  from  | 
Ealka). 

[3  m.  ofif  across  a  valley  the  road  rises  i 
to  Sanawar,  which,  however,  is  notj 
quite  so  high  as  KasauIL 

Here  is  the  Lawrence  Military  Asy- 
Inm.  From  it  may  be  seen  Dugshai 
and  Sabathu,  and  in  the  far  distance 
Simla.  The  ground  was  made  over  to 
the  Asylum  in  1858,  in  frdfilment  of 
the  wish  of  Sir  H.  Lawrence.  There 
are  separate  barracks  for  boys,  girls, 
and  infants,  and  a  chapeL  Children 
of  pure  European  parentage  take  pre- 
cedence as  candidates  for  admission,  as 
more  likely  to  suffer  from  the  climate 
of  the  plains,  except  in  the  case  oC 
orphans,  who  have  the  preference  over 
all  others.  The  boys  qualify  for  the 
service  of  Government  in  various  de- 
partments. A  local  committee  manages 
the  (College.] 

(2)  The  tonga-road  from  Kalka  to 
Simla  runs  E.  of  the  old  road ;  the 
stages  are  as  follows : — 


Name  of  Stage. 

Distance. 

Ealka  to  Dharmpnr 
Dhannpur  to  Solon 

.    15  miles. 

.    12      „ 

Solon  to  Keri  Ghat 

.     16      „ 

Eeri  Qhat  to  Simla 

.     16      » 

Total 


57  miles. 


The  road  to  Dharmpur  is  narrow. 
[From  Dharmpur  a  road  strikes  left  to 
(10  m.)  Sabathu,  which  lies  between 
the  two  roads,  and  is  a  conspicuous 
object  from  Simla.]  After  leaving 
Dharmpur,  there  is  an  excellent  road 
to  the  military  station  of  Solon,  s^c 
where  is  a  neat  D.B.  on  the  E.  The 
last  3  m.  is  a  very  sharp  descent.  From 
Solon  it  is  one  long  ascent  round  pro- 
jecting rocks :  the  tongas  go  fast,  the 
drivers  blowing  their  horns,  which  \a 
necessary*  as  strings  of  mules  and  carts 
are  continually  passed.     For  the  last 


ROUTE  11.       SIMLA 


191 


A  winda  along  the  E.  side 
B,  and  in  places  there  are 
ch  gradually  increase  in 
*  Keri  Ghat  D.B.  is 
I  building  is  perched  over 
k  of  1500  or  2000  ft.  The 
about  7  hrs.  by  tonga. 

[the  plains  the  cold  of  the 

Tier  trying. 

3^  The  land  upon  which 
was  retained  by  the 
ment  as  a  sanitarium  at 
Gurkha  War  in  1815-16, 
the  surrounding  district 
to  the  natives.  Lieut, 
the  first  residence,  a 
.en  cottage,  in  1819. 
Lieut  Kennedy,  in  1822 
>nent  house.  Other  officers 
am  pie,  and  in  1826  Simla 
iiettlement  In  1829  Lord 
nt  the  summer  there,  and 
date  the  sanitarium  grew 
favour  with  Europeans, 
government  of  Sir  John 
in  1864,  Simla  has  been 
ler  capital  for  India.  As 
16  hot  weather  sets  in,  the 
it  officers  and  Viceroy  quit 
!6r  Simla,  which  is  deserted  in 
The  European  residences 
a  ridge  in  a  crescent  shape, 
is  from  W.  to  E.  for  a  distance 
m. 

foot  of  this  ridge  is  a  precipi- 

3nt,  in  some  places  a  complete 

of  about  1000  ft,  leading  down 

jr,  which  is  watered  by  several 

as   the    Gumbhar   and    the 

in  which  are  two  waterfalls. 

these  there  are  the  Pahar,  the 

and  the  Sarsa  streams. 

bazaar  road  cuts  oflf  one 

a  from  another.      The  E. 

called  Chota  Simla,  the  W.  is 

nj.    The  ridge  running  N,, 

"ed  with  oaks  and  rhododen- 

called  Elysivm.      On  the 

W.  of  the  station  is  Jvtogh,  a 

ilitary  post  on  the  top  of  a  lofty 

5ep    hill.      It    m.   to  the   E. 

;h  is  Prospect  Hill,  7140  ft 

i-levcl,  which  is  the  W.  point 

crescent   of   which   we   nave 

1  m.  to  the  K  of  this  hill  is 


Peterhoff,  the  old  residence  of  the 
Viceroy,  with  Observatory  Hill  and 
the  fine  Ghverrmient  House  on  it  3 
furlongs  to  the  W. 

The  United  Service  Club  lies  500 
ft  due  S.  of  Combermere  Bridge 
on  the  slopes  of  Jako,  a  hill  8048  ft 
above  sea -level.  The  Bandstand  is  a 
little  way  to  the  S.  of  the  Club ;  and 
the  Mayo  Orphanage  is  at  the  N.E. 
corner  of  Jako. 

The  Pablic  InBtitutions  at  Simla 
comprise  the  Bishop  Cotton  School, 
the  Punjab  Girls'  School,  the  Mayo 
Orphanage,  a  Roman  Catholic  Con- 
vent, and  a  handsome  Town  Hall, 
besides  the  €k>venmient  Offices.  These 
occupy  several  fine  blocks  of  building. 
In  one  are  the  offices  of  the  Accountant- 
General,  the  Public  Works  Secretariat, 
the  offices  of  the  Executive  Engineer, 
the  Superintendent  of  Works,  the 
Director-General  of  Railways.  Another 
building  contains  the  Legislative  and 
Home  Departments,  the  office  of  tiie 
Surgeon-General  of  H.M.  Forces,  the 
Commissariat  Department.  Another 
block  is  occupied  by  the  Judge  Advo- 
cate-General's office,  the  office  of  H.K 
the  Commander-in-Chief,  the  Quarter- 
master-General's office,  the  Intelligence 
Branch,  and  the  Revenue  and  Agricul- 
tural Departments.  Above  are  the 
Adjutant-General's  office,  the  Meteoro- 
logical Department,  the  Survey  of 
India,  and  many  other  offices.  About  2 
m.  from  these  building  is  the  Foreign 
Office.  Not  far  from  it  is  the  General 
Post-Office  and  the  Telegraph  Office. 
In  the  Court  House  are  the  various  law 
offices.  The  Town  Hall  contains  the 
Municipal  Offices  and  the  Station 
Library.  This  building  also  has  a 
theatre,  a  concert -room,  and  a  fine 
ballroom.  A  few  minutes'  walk  from 
the  Town  Hall  is 

Christ  Church  at  the/oo<  of  Jako  Hill, 

The  scenery  at  Simla  is  of  peculiar 
beauty  ;  it  presents  a  series  of  magni- 
ficent views,  embracing  on  the  S.  the 
Umballa  Plains  with  the  Sabathu  and 
Easauli  Hills  in  the  foreground,  and 
the  massive  block  of  the  Chor,  a  little 
to  the  E.  ;  while  just  below  the 
spectator's  feet  a  series  of  huge  ravines 
lead  down  into  the  deep  valleys  which 


Ids 


ROUTE  ll.       DELHI  TO  SIMLA 


India 


score  the  moantain  sides.  Northwards 
the  eye  wanders  over  a  network  of 
confused  chains,  rising  range  above 
range,  and  crowned  in  the  distance  by 
a  crescent  of  snowy  peaks  standing  out 
in  bold  relief  against  the  clear  back- 
gronnd  of  the  sky.  The  rides  and 
walks  will  furnish  endless  amnsement 
to  the  visitor,  who,  however,  will  do 
well  to  be  cautious,  particularly  as 
regards  the  animal  he  mounts.  A 
number  of  people  have  been  killed  by 
falling  over  precipices  at  this  station, 
and  many  more  have  had  narrow 
escapes  of  their  lives. 

AxLaadale  is  a  fairly  extensive  plain, 
in  a  valley  1200  ft.  below  the  ridge 
on  the  N.W.  of  the  station.  The 
jRaee-cou/rae  surrounds  it,  and  it  con- 
tains the  Public  Gardens,  the  Cricket 
Oroimd,  and  some  very  fine  trees.  This 
is  the  spot  where  all  open-air  meetings 
are  held.  West  again  of  Anandale  is  the 
Glen,  a  charming  wooded  valley  with 
some  grassy  slopes  and  fine  timber.  The 
dripping  rock  should  be  looked  for  in  it. 

The  distances  at  Simla,  taken  from 
Christ  Church,  are — Round  Jako,  5 
m.  ;  Boileauganj,  2|  m.  ;  to  the  end 
of  Chota  Simla,  2  m. 


From  Simla  the  traveller  may  make 
an  expedition  to,  4  m.,  Mvsliotara,  a 
pleasant  place  to  spend  a  few  days, 
and  to 

NarkaiidaandEotgaxh,D.B.  There 
he  will  be  rewarded  by  seeing  some 
grand  scenery.  The  stages  are  as 
follows : — 


Names  of  Stages. 

u. 

Above  Sea-level. 

Mahasu  from  Simla 

10 

8200  ft. 

Phagu     . 

15 

8200,, 

Theog     . 

22 

7700,, 

Matteana 

as 

7720 ;; 

Narkanda 

45 

9000,, 

Kotgarh . 

54} 

0600,, 

At  Phagu,  D.B.,  in  the  territory 
of  the  Rana  of  Kotah,  is  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  snowy  range. 

10  m.  E.  of  Theog  are  the  Eot 
Khai  iron-mines. 

Narkwnda,  D.B.,  splendid  view. 

53}  m.  Kotgarh. 

[Snltanpur,  the  old  residence  of  the 
Sultans  of  Kulla,  in  the  Kullu  Valley,  is 
approached  by  way  of  Simla  :  it  is  a  long  and 
tedious  expedition,  but  the  scenery  cannot  be 
surpassed  for  grandeur,  and  the  Deodar 
Forests  abound  in  pheasants  and  other  game. 
Farther  up  amongst  the  high  peaks  sportsmen 
will  find  ibex  and  bears.] 


MARCHES  FROM  SIMLA  TO  SULTANPUR  (KULLU). 


^ 

Height 

1 

From. 

To. 

above 
Sea- 

Accommodation. 

Supplies. 

Country. 

Dis- 
tance. 

level. 

'Simla 

feet. 

ms. 

Theog 

7600 

Vil,  good  bungalow 

Abundant 

Good  road 

18 

ll 

Theog 

Mathiana 

7600 

>i       »»           »» 

„ 

II 

11 

Mathiana 

Narkanda 

9600 

>•              )l                       M 

,, 

Fine  view, 

11 

- 

good  road. 

Sl 

Narkanda 

Kamaseu 

»»       »»           «» 

" 

All  down 
hill. 

8 

Kamaseu 

Dalareh 

„    no  bungalow 

Limited 

Cross  Snt- 

11 

1^.  Ascent 
and  des- 
cent. 

'Dalarsh 

Chawl 

„    small  bungalow 

II 

Cross  a 
ridge. 
Cross  val- 

7 

Ghawi 

Kot 

>•       <»           II 

ft 

9 

ley,  steep 

•g* 

ascent and 

descent. 

1 

Kot 

Jeebhi 

I*       I*           ll 

11 

Cross 

11 

Jaloripass 

(10,500  ft.) 

Jeebhi 

Manglaor 

»i       »i           II 

jj 

8 

Manglaor 
VLaidi 

Laiji 

5718 

.1             M 

jj 

8 

Bajaora 

» 

11 

Bijaora 

Snltanpur 

4048 

„    good  bungalow 

Abundant 

9 

ROUTE  11  A.      BARDHANA 


193 


BOUTE  llA 
Delhi  to  Umballa  by  the  E.  bank 
OP  JiTMNA  River— Meeettt,  Sar- 

DHANA  AND  SAHARANPORE,  for  DeH- 

RA  Dun  and  Mussourie. 

13  m.  Qhariabadjanc.  sta.  3^  From 
this  point  the  £.  I.  Rly.  runs  S.£.  to 
Allahabad  and  Calcutta. 

41  m.  Heemt  city  sta. 

44  m.  MSBBUT  Cantonment  sta.  :0c 
(The  N.W.  Rly.  enters  the  cantonment 
at  the  S.W.)  The  Gantoament  of 
Meemt  is  the  headquarters  of  a  division 
of  the  army,  and  is  noteworthy  from 
its  size  and  importance,  and  because 

India  began  there.  It  was  held  all 
through  the  Mutinv  by  a  few  Briti^ 
troops,  who  kept  order  in  the  surronnd- 
inff  distriet.  Meerutis  an  ancient  city 
half-way  between  the  Ganees  and 
Jamna,  and  was  raised  from  decay  by 
British  patronage.  It  is  an  extensive 
station,  measuring  8^  m.  from  the  rail- 
way on  the  W.,  to  the  Police  Lines  on 
the  extreme  £. ,  traversed  by  the  Hall 
Boacl,  one  of  the  finest  and  broadest 
roads  in  India,  and  3  m.  firom  where 
the  Bulandshahar  Road,  on  the  &., 
leaves  the  sta.,  to  the  end  of  Church 
Street.  The  European  Cavalry  Bar- 
racks are  of  remarkable  extent. 

St.  Jolm's  Chnxota,  completed  1821, 
in  the  Italian  style,  was  the  first  church 
erected  in  the  Upper  Provinces  of  India. 
There  are  tablets  in  it  to  a  great  number 
of  officers  who  have  been  killed  in 
action  or  have  died  in  Upper  India. 

The  Cemetery,  which  lies  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  church,  is  vast,  and 
divided  into  two  parts — the  new  being 
marked  by  crosses  and  English  tombs, 
the  old  by  cupolas  and  pyramids.     The 

Sillar,  50  ft.  high,  was  erected  to  Sir 
L  RoUo  Gillespie,  who  subdued  the 
Mutiny  at  Vellore. 

The  Central  Jail,  completed  in 
1819,  is  capable  of  holding  4600 
prisoners.  The  District  Jail  is  a  little 
farther  to  the  E. 

Temples,  etc.— The  Surtij  Kund, 
commonly  called  by  Europeans  the 
"  Monkey  Tank,"  is  to  the  W.  of  the 
Jail.  "  It  was  constructed  by  Jew  ahir 
Mull,  a  wealthy  merchant  of  La  war, 
[India] 


in  1714.  There  are  numerous  small 
temples,  dharmsalas,  and  8cUi  pillars 
on  its  banks,  but  none  of  any  note." 
The  BaUshwar  Nath  Temple  is  the 
oldest  in  the  district,  and  dates  from 
before  the  Moslem  invasion.  The 
Da/rgah,  in  the  Nan  Chandi  Mahallah, 
is^  said  to  have  been  built  by  Eutbu- 
din,  from  the  remains  of  a  Hindu 
temple  which  he  pulled  down.  The 
Da/rgah  of  Shah  Fir  is  a  fine  structure 
of  red  sandstone,  erected  about  1620 
A.D.  by  Nur  Jehan,  in  memory  of  a 
pious  fakir  of  that  name.  The  Jumma 
Mturjid  is  said  to  have  been  built  in 
1019  by  Hasan  Mahdi,  Vazir  of  Mah- 
mud  Ghaznavi,  and  was  repaired  by 
Humayun.  The  MaJebarah  of  Salar 
Masaud  Ghazi  is  attributed  to  Eutbu- 
din  Aibak  in  1191.  There  are  two 
large  ImambarahSy  one  near  the  Eaim- 
boli  Gate,  and  another  in  the  Zabidi 
Mahallah,  and  an  'Idgah,  on  the  Delhi 
Road,  built  in  1600.  There  is  a  mosque 
built  by  Nawab  Ehairandesh  Ehan  ia 
the  Saraiganj.  Andbesideethose already 
mentioned,  there  are  62  mosques  and 
60  temples  in  the  city,  none  of  which, 
however,  deserve  any  particular  notice. 

Before  reaching  Sorohana  the  Ganges 
Canal,  made  by  Sir  Proby  Cautley,  is 
crossed. 

51  m.  Sardhaaa  sta.,  D.B.,  is  con- 
nected with  an  adventurer  named 
Sombre  or  Sumroo,  of  French  or  Wal- 
loon origin,  who  came  out  to  India  as 
a  carpenter  in  the  French  navy.  He 
became  leader  of  a  band  of  European 
deserters  and  native  Sepoys,  whom  he 
brought  to  a  state  of  discipline  unusual 
in  native  soldiers.  After  serving  under 
several  native  chieft,  but  staying  with 
none  of  them*  long,  he  joined  one 
Gregory,  an  Armenian,  who  was  high  in 
the  favour  of  Mir  Kasim,  the  Nawab  of 
Bengal.  It  was  after  the  fall  of  Munger 
that  he  did  his  employer  the  base  service 
of  putting  to  death  all  the  sixty  English 
prisoners  who  had  been  collected  at 
Patna  (in  1763),  a  deed  for  which  his 
name  will  ever  be  held  in  abhorrence.  He 
next  joined  the  Bhurtpur  chief,  and  from 
him  finally  went  over  to  Najaf  Ehan, 
from  whom  he  received  a  grant  of  the 
Parffanah  of  Sardhana,  then  valued  at 
6  lakhs  a  year  and  to  him  he  remained 
o 


194 


ROUTB  11  A.      DELHI  TO  TTMBALLA 


India 


faithful  for  the  rest  of  his  life.  He 
died  in  1778,  and  his  Begam,  originally 
a  Cashmere  dancing-girl,  was  recognised 
as  his  widow,  and  succeeded  to  his 
domains  and  the  command  of  his  troops. 
She  became  a  Roman  Catholic  in  1784, 
and  married  a  French  adventurer  named 
Le  Yaisseau  (1792),  who  having  shown 
himself  incompetent  to  rule  was  in- 
duced to  commit  suicide.  The  revolt 
which  he  had  caused  was  quelled  by 
the  Begam,  aided  by  an  English  servant, 
George  Thomas,  and  by  a  son  of  Sumroo, 
Zafar  yab  Khan.  At  his  death,  1802, 
the  Begam  e^ve  his  daughter  in  mar- 
riage to  Mr.  Dyce,  one  of  her  officers, 
afterwards  known  as  Colonel  Dyce 
Sombre,  who  in  1862  married  Lady 
Mary  Jervis,  daughter  of  Earl  St. 
Vincent,  afterwards  Lady  M.  Forester. 
The  Begam  was  a  woman  of  shrewd 
ability,  and  after  keeping  up  a  good 
understanding  with  the  British  Govern- 
ment, her  forces  were  received  into 
British  pay. 

E.  of  the  town  is  a  modem  English 
mansion,  built  1834,  and  called  the 
Palace,  with  a  grand  flight  of  steps  at 
the  entrance.  It  stands  in  a  garden  of 
50  acres,  and  is  commonly  known  as 
the  Kothi  Dilkosha.  Within  will  be 
found  two  framed  inscriptions  record- 
ing the  charities  of  H.H.  the  Begam 
Sombre  in  Sardhana.  There  are  por- 
traits of  the  Begam  and  her  friends. 
In  one  she  is  represented  smoking,  with 
Dyce  Sombre  as  a  child  beside  her. 
Also  of  George  Thomas,  General  Ochter- 
lony.  Sir  C.  Metcalfe,  Lord  Comber- 
mere,  Colonel  Boileau,  General  Ventura, 
and  the  Begam's  butler,  etc. 

The  R.  0,  Cathedral  is  outside  the 
town  on  the  S.  It  is  an  imposing 
building,  standing  in  an  enclosure,  sur- 
rounded by  an  ornamental  wall.  By 
the  side  entrance,  on  the  rt.,  is  the 
Begam's  white  marble  monument,  made 
at  Rome.  Close  by  is  the  B.  C.  College, 
a  low  masonry  house,  which  was  once 
the  Begam's  own  residence.  It  is  in- 
tended for  the  instruction  of  native 
Priests,  and  endowed  by  the  Begam. 
'here  are  50  pupils  taught  by  the 
Italian  priest  and  his  curate.  The 
Begam's  or  Sumroo  estates  lapsed  to 
Government  in  1835. 


Ill  m.  Sahaxanpore  June,  sta.,3^  (R.) 
D.B.  From  here  the  Oadh  and  Kohil- 
cuud  railway  runs  E.  to  Hardwar,  Ali- 
garh,  Lucknow,  Ajodhya,  and  Benares 
(see  Rte.  16  ;  good  road  to  42  m.  Dehra 
Dun,  p.  256). 

This  municipal  city,  with  a  pop.  of 
63,300,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Jumna 
Canal  establishment. 

The  town  was  founded  in  the  reign 
of  Muhammad  Tughlak  about  1340. 
It  was  called  from  Shah  Haran  Chisti, 
whose  shrine  is  still  much  visited  by 
Mohammedans.  It  was  a  favourite 
place  of  summer  resort  of  the  Mogul 
court.  In  the  reign  of  Shah  Jehan  a 
royal  hunting -seat,  called  Badshah 
Mahal,  was  built  by  'AH  Mardan  Ehan, 
the  projector  of  uie  Eastexn  Jtuima 
Canal.  Unhappily  the  canal  was 
neglected  during  the  decline  of  the 
Mogul  Empire,  and  was  never  of  much 
utLUty  till  the  district  came  under 
British  rule.  Sir  P.  Cautley  recon- 
structed it,  since  which  time  cultiva- 
tion has  spread  on  every  side. 

There  is  an  Anglican  church,  conse- 
crated in  1868 ;  and  an  American  Pres- 
byterian church,  and  a  Mission  from 
that  body.  An  old  Bohilla  fort  is  used 
as  a  Court-House.  A  handsome  modem 
mosque  has  been  erected  on  theplans  of 
the  Jumma  Musjid  at  Delhi.  The  main 
attraction  to  the  traveller,  however,  will 
be  the  extensive  OovenunexLt  Botanical 
Gardens,  where  many  valuable  plants 
have  been  acclimatised. 

Near  the  entrance  by  the  N.  gate  Vi 
the  Agricultural  Garden,  and  l^yond 
it  to  the  E.  the  Medicinal  Garden ; 
beyond  this  to  the  S.  is  the  Linnfiean 
Griurden.  The  main  working  divisions 
are  the  horticultural  department,  the 
Doab  Canal  tree  nursery,  the  nurseries 
for  cuttinjgs,  bulbous  ]plants,  &uit  trees, 
and  seedlings.  There  is  a  Hindu  temple 
and  a  tank  and  wells.  The  S.E.  gate 
leads  to  some  sati  monuments  and 
chattris. 

Saharanpore  is  celebrated  as  the  sta- 
tion whence  the  Trigonometrical  Sur- 
vey of  the  Himalayas  was  commenced. 
The  snowy  peaks  add  much  sublimity 
to  the  view  to  the  N. 

161  m.  IJmballa  Cantonment  sta. 
(see  p.  190). 


ROUTE  12.   UMBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


195 


ROUTE  12 

Umballa  to  Lahore 

17  m.  Bajpura  June.  sta.  D.B.  From 
here  a  branch  line  runs  S.W.  16  m.  to 
Patiala,  and  from  that  W.  to  Bhatinda 
on  the  Rewari-Ferozepur  line. 

33  m.  Sirhind  sta.  The  name  of 
this  town  was  formerly  applied  to  a  very 
extensiye  tract,  which  included  the  TJm- 
baUa  district  and  the  native  states  of 
Patiala  and  Nabha.  It  is  the  place  where 
many  Afghan  f^rinces  of  Shah  Shuja's 
family  are  buried ;  in  Cunningham's 
ArehdJBologwd  Survey^  vol.  ii.  p.  205, 
a  very  interesting  account  of  it  will  be 
found. 

It  is  mentioned  by  Firishtah  as  the 
most  eastern  possession  of  the  Brahman 
kings  of  Kabul.  After  they  were  con- 
quered by  Mahmud,  it  became  the 
frontier  town  of  the  Moslems,  whence 
its  name  of  Sirhind  or  Sar-i-hind, 
"Frontier  of  Hind."  It  must  have 
been  a  place  of  importance  as  long 
back  as  1191  A.D.,  when  it  was  taken 
by  Muhammad  Ghori  and  retaken  by 
Bai  Pithora  after  a  siege  of  18  months. 
At  that  early*  date  it  had  a  separate 
governor. 

For  the  century  and  a  half  that 
intervened  between  the  accession  of 
Akbar  and  the  death  of  Auranezeb, 
Sirhind  was  one  of  the  most  flourisning 
cities  of  the  Mogul  Empire.  Many 
tombs  and  mosques  are  yet  standing, 
and  heaps  of  brick  ruins  surround  the 
old  city  for  several  miles.  In  1709  the 
city  was  taken  and  plundered  by  the 
Sikh  chief  Banda,  who  put  the  governor 
Vazir  Khan  to  death  in  revenge  for  the 
murder  of  Guru  Govind's  family.  In 
1713,  and  again  in  December  1763, 
Sirhind  was  taken  and  totally  destroyed 
by  the  Sikhs.  Even  to  this  day  every 
Sikh  on  passing  through  Sirhind  carries 
away  a  brick,  which  he  throws  into  the 
Sutlej  in  the  hope  that  in  time  the 
detested  city  will  thus  be  utterly  re- 
moved from  the  face  of  the  earth.  The 
finest  and  oldest  building  is  the 

Tomb  of  Mir  Miraa.  It  is  of  stone, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  large  central 


dome  on  an  octagonal  base,  with  a 
smaller  dome  at  eacn  of  the  four  comers 
on  a  square  base.  Each  of  the  four 
sides  is  pierced  by  a  recessed  doorway 
with  a  pointed  arch  covered  by  a  second 
loftier  and  larger  arch.  The  dead  walls 
are  relieved  by  squares  of  blue  enamelled 
tUes.  The  general  effect  is  decidedly 
good,  and  altogether  this  tomb  is  one 
of  the  most  pleasing  and  perfect  speci- 
mens of  the  later  Pathan  or  earlier 
Afghan  architecture. 

The  Largest  Tomb  is  a  plain  brick 
building.  At  the  four  comers  are  very 
small  turrets,  which  look  mean  beside 
the  lofty  central  dome  of  40  ft.  diameter 
which  crowns  the  building.  The  next 
tomb  in  size  is  another  red  brick  build- 
ing, attributed  to  Khqja  Khan,  The 
great  dome  is  86  ft.  in  diameter  outside. 
This  building  is  probably  of  the  15th 
century.  There  is  a  pretty  little  octa- 
gonal Tomb  of  Pirbandi  Nak8hwala(or 
the  painter).  It  is  on  open  arches,  and 
is  surmounted  by  the  pear-shaped  dome 
of  the  Mogul  period.  The  body  of 
the  building  is  profusely  covered  with 
paintings  offlowers,  and  the  roof  with 
glazed  tiles,  arranged  so  that  the  melon- 
like  divisions  of  the  dome  are  marked 
by  dark  blue  lines,  and  the  intervals 
by  coloured  tiles  laid  herring-bone 
fashion,  beginning  with  yellowish  pale 
green  at  the  top  and  ending  with  dark 
green  at  the  bottom.  The  only  mosque 
worth  mentioning  is  that  of  Saaan 
Kasaiy  to  the  N.  of  the  present  town. 
The  W.  end  has  fallen  down.  The 
centre  space  is  covered  by  a  dome  45  ft. 
in  diameter. 

The  iTizreZt  or  mansion  of  Sahabat  Beg 
is  perhaps  the  largest  specimeif  of  the 
domestic  architecture  ot  the  Moham- 
medans of  the  Mogul  Empire.  It  con- 
sists of  2  great  piles  of  brick,  each  60 
ft.  sq.  and  about  80  ft.  high,  connected 
by  high  dead  walls. 

The  great  Sarai  of  the  Mogul  em- 
perors is  to  the  S.E.  of  the  city.  It  is 
now  used  as  a  public  audience-hall  by 
the  Patiala  authorities,  and  is  called  the 
Amkhas.  General  Cunningham  believes 
that  Sirhind  was  a  flourishing  town  in 
900  A.D.  But  its  interest  to  the  traveller 
consists  in  its  being  a  good  place  for 
examining  the 


196 


BOUTB  12.   UMBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


India 


€hreat  Sirhind  Canal  (opened  in  1882), 
the  largest  irrigation  canal  in  the  world. 
It  draws  its  water  from  the  Sutlej  at 
Rupar  (20  m.  distant),  and  passing 
through  Ludhiana  and  Pati^la,  with 
side  branches  to  Nabha,  Jind,  and  other 
native  states  of  the  Punjab,  eventually 
joins  the  Jumna  near  Kumal. 

71  m.  Ludhiana  St.,  D.B.  This  is 
a  municipal  town  and  headquarters  of 
a  district  of  the  same  name.  (Fop. 
46,000,  of  whom  much  the  greater  por- 
tion are  Mohammedans. )  It  is  a  great 
grain  market,  and  famous  for  its  shawls 
made  from  Pashmina  wool,  also  for  the 
manufacture  of  Bampur  chudders.  It 
is  situated  near  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Sutlej,  8  m.  from  the  present  bed  of  the 
river.  The  Fort  lies  to  the  N.W.  of 
the  city,  and  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the 
Fort  is  the  Shrine  of  Pir-i-Dastgir,  or 
'Abdu  *1  Kadir  Gilani. 

The  Church  and  Public  Oardens  are 

to  the  W.  of  the  cantonment  There 
has  been  an  American  Presbyterian 
Mission  here  since  1840.  Ludhiana 
was  founded  in  1480  by  two  princes  of 
tlie  Lodi  family.  In  1809  General 
Ochterlony  occupied  it  as  Political 
Agent  for  the  C^s- Sutlej  states,  and 
from  1834  to  1854  the  town  was  a 
military  station.  The  troops  were  re- 
moved in  1854,  but  a  small  garrison 
was  left  to  occupy  the  Fort. 

The  Fort  is  on  an  eminence.  From 
the  flag -staff  bastion  there  is  a  good 
view  of  the  Ferozepur  road  and  the 
adjoining  country,  with  the  city  to  the 
E.  There  is  an  excellent  well  of  good 
water  in  the  Fort,  and  bomb-proof 
barracks  for  600  men. 

Most  of  the  great  battles  of  the  first 
Sikh  War  were  fought  between  Ludhi- 
ana and  Ferozepur,  including  Moodki, 
Ferozehah,  Sobraon,  and  Aliwal. 

The  road  from  Ludhiana  to,  16  m., 
Aliwal  is  so  deep  in  sand  that  4  horses 
are  required  for  a  carriage.  There  is 
there  an  Obelisk  inscribed  "  Aliwal,  16th 
January  1846  ; "  repeated  in  Persian 
and  Gurmukhi. 

The  battle  of  Aliwal  was  fought  on 
the  28th  January  1846  (see  Cunning- 
man's  SikhSj  p.  312). 


103  m.  Jullunder  Cantonment  sta. ,  3^  i 
D.B.  A  municipal  city,  cantonment,  ' 
and  headquarters  of  a  district  of  the 
same  name.  The  city  itself  (sta.  8  m. 
farther  N. )  hasa  pop.  of  60, 000,  of  whom 
the  ^ater  number  are  Mohammedans. 
Anciently  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Baj- 

Sut  kingdom  of  Katoch  before  Alexan- 
er's  invasion.      Hiouen  Thsang,  the 
Chinese  pilgrim  of  the  7th  century  A.D.,    ; 
describes  the  town  as  2  m.  in  circuit. 
Two  aadent  Taoks  are  all  that  is  left 
of  the  primitive  city.     Ibrahim  Shah 
of  Ghazni    conquered    the    city,    and  ' 
under  the  Mogul  Empire  it  fonned  the  i 
capital  of  the    country    between  the  \ 
Sutlej  and  the  Bias.     The  modem  dir  I 
consists  of  a  cluster  of  wards,    each 
formerly  surrounded  by  a  wall.     There 
is  a  fine  Sarai  built  by  Earim  Bakhsh. 

The  Church,  J  m.  W.  of  the  artillery 
lines,  is  a  long  building  without  anj 
tower. 

The  American  PreBbyterian  Hiaaieii 
maintains  an  excellent  school.  The 
Cantonmeut,  which  is  considered  s 
healthy  one,  was  established  in  1846, 
and  has  an  area  of  7^  sq.  m.  Two  regi- 
ments and  a  battery  of  artillery  are 
stationed  here. 

The  Public  Gardens  are  in  the  mili- 
tary cantonment,  and  are  nicely  laid 
out. 

It  is  a  good  district  for  sport  Pig- 
sticking can  be  obtained  quite  near; 
black  buck  are  fairly  plent^ul,  and 
there  is  very  good  snipe-shooting. 

[The  native  state  of  Eupnrilmlla  is 
16  m.  S.W.     Good  road.] 

106.  m.  Jullunder  City  sta. 

155  m.  AMRITSAB  June,  sta., 3^  D.6., 
about  i  UL  S.  of  the  city.  A  branch 
line  from  here  goes  KE.  67  m.  to; 
Pathankot  for  Dalhousie,  etc.  (seai 
below).  I 

Amritsar  is  a  city  with  a  pop.  of 
136,500.  It  is  the  wealthiest  and,: 
next  to  Delhi  and  Lahore,  the  most  popii>  '■■ 
lous  city  of  the  Punjab,  and  the  religions; 
capital  of  the  Sikhs.  It  is  also  the  ad- ; 
ministrative  headquarters  of  a  distrioLi 
It  was  founded  in  1574. by  Ram  Das,  thK 
Guru  of  the  Sikhs,  upon  a  site  granted 
by  the  Emperor  Akbar  around  a  sacred 


ROTTTB  12.       AMRrtB^Ol 


191 


tank,  from  which  the  city  takes  its 
name,  "Pool  of  Immortality."  Ahmad 
Shah  Dnrani  destroyed  it  in  1761,  blew 
np  the  temple,  and  defiled  the  shrines 
with  bullock's  blood.  After  his  retire- 
ment the  city  was  divided  amongst  the 
various  Sikh  chiefs,  to  each  of  whom 
was  assigned  a  separate  ward.  How- 
ever, it  gradually  passed  into  the  power 
of  the  Bhanji  Misl,  who  retained  the 
supremacy  till  1802.  In  that  year 
Rsmjit  seized  it,  and  roofed  the  great 
shrine  with  sheets  of  copper  gilt, 
whence  it  was  called  the  Golden  Temple. 
He  also  built  on  the  N.W.  the  Fort  of 
€k)vindgarh  in  order  to  overawe  the 
pilgrims,  and  surrounded  the  city  with 
a  massive  wall,  the  greater  part  of  which 
has  been  demolished  since  the  British 
occupation. 

Amritsar  is  a  centre  of  manufacturing 
industry.     Its  staple  was  the  weaving 
of  Cashmere  shawls  from  the  inner  soft 
J    wool  of  the  goat,  on  which  4000  Cash- 
meris  were  engaged,  but  most  of  them 
are  now  employed  in  carpet  factories. 
Hampv/r  chudders  are  also  made  here, 
silk  fabrics  of  solid  texture  and  beauti- 
ful patterns,  and  carpets  (see  below). 
Carying  in  ivory  employs  many  artists. 
■■:   The  materials  for  these  manufactures 
T    are,  in  a  great  measure,  brought  ftom 
all  parts  of  Central  Asia,  and  the  mer- 
chants who  bring  them  may  be  seen  in 
■   their  national  and  highly  picturesque 
:    costumes  about  the  town,  but  more 
especially  in  the  caravanserais,  which 
^   are  well  worthy  of  a  visit ;  and  there 
may   be   found   Cashmeris,    Afghans, 
Nepalese,   Bokharans,    Beluchis,  Per- 
sians, Tircomans,  Tibetans,  Yarkandis, 
and  others.     Besides  the  raw  materials 
/   they  bring  fine  specimens  of  their  own 
national  manufactures  and  embroideries, 
which  may  be  purchased  from  dealers 
in  this  town  as  well  as  in  the  other 
chief  cities  of  India.     Amritsar  is  also 
-   the  dep6t  for  piece-goods,  copper,  brass, 
^    etc.,  for  the  Central  Asian  markets. 

Ihe  City  has  12  gates,  of  which  the 
.  only  old  one  is  that  on  the  N.  side 
facing  the  Ram  Bagh.  On  his  way  to 
;  the  Great  Temple,  called  the  Darbar, 
'  or  Golden  Temple,  in  the  centre  of  the 
i  town,  the  travelled  passes  2  large 
tnodem  Sands,  the  Carpet  Factory, 


which  surpasses  any  other  in  India, 
and  more  than  one  small  mosque ;  then 
through  a  deep  archway  in  the  centre 
of  the  municipal  buildings  he  enters 
the  Kaisar  Bagh,  where  stands  a  white 
marble  statue  of  H.M.  the  Queen.  At 
the  entrance  to  the  temple  precincts 
stands  the  Clock  Tower,  which  over- 
looks the  tank  and  the  temple  in  the 
centre.  The  view  from  here  is  wonder- 
fully picturesque.  Before  visiting  the 
temple  it  will  be  necessary  for  the 
visitor  to  take  off  his  boots  and  put  on 
soft  slippers  provided  for  him  at  the 
entrance  on  payment  of  a  trifle.  It  is 
also  necessary  for  a  policeman  to  accom- 
pany him,  in  accoidance  with  Govern- 
ment rules.  The  Sacred  Tank  is  sur- 
rounded bv  a  tesselated  pavement  ^  of 
white  marble  24  ft.  broad,  with  ribs  of 
black  and  brown,  brought  from  Jeypore. 
It  is  470  ft.  sq.3  The  buildings  sur- 
rounding  it  are  called  Bungahs,  and 
are  the  houses  of  great  chiefs  who  come 
to  worship.  To  the  N.W.  of  the  Darbar 
Temple  is  that  of  Takht  Akal  Bungah 
Sahib  (see  below),  with  a  gilt  dome, 
and  adjoining  it,  to  the  S.,  is  the  bungah 
of  Dhiyan  Sing,  a  plain  brick  building. 
Next  to  it  on  the  S.  is  the  gorgeous 
bungah  of  Sher  Sing,  and  in  tiie  same 
direction  beyond  it  and  beyond  the 
small  square  in  which  are  all  those 
already  mentioned,  is  the  bungah  of 
Lehna  Sing.  In  the  N.E.  is  the  white 
bungah  of  the  Bajahs  of  Patiala  and 
Nabha,  and  beyond,  outside  the  enclo- 
sure, to  the  E.,  are  the  two  gigan- 
tic minars  of  Mangal  Sing's  family, 
called  the  Ram  Gku'hiya  Minars  (see 
below). 

The  Darbar  or  Golden  Temple  stands 
in  the  centre  of  the  tank  on  a  platform 
66  ft.  sq.  It  is  approached  from  be- 
neath an  archway  on  the  W.  side  by  a 
white  marble  causeway  204  ft.  long, 
flanked  on  either  side  by  gild^ 
standard  lamps. 

Except  for  uie  lower  part  of  the  walls, 
which  are  of  white  marble  (decorated 
with  modern  inlaid  work),  the  whole  of 

1  Along  this  pavement  sit  hawkers  Mrho  sell 
beads  and  miniature  spear-heads  and  qaoits, 
which  the  Sikhs  are  now  content  to  wear  in 
their  pnggeries  in  place  of  the  real  weapons. 

3  Sec  Sir  G.  Blrdwood's  Industrial  ArU. 


198 


BOUTB  12.   UMBALLA  TO  LAHOBB 


IndAa 


the  bnilding  is  encased  in  gilded  copper, 
its  sides  inscribed  with  verses  from  the 
GrarUhf  written  very  distinctly  in  the 
Punjabi  character.  It  is  entered  by  4 
doorways,  one  on  each  side.  The  doors 
are  plated  with  silver  finely  wrought. 
That  on  the  N.  side  is  the  only  one 
through  which  Europeans  may  pass. 

The  scene  within  is  a  most  pictur- 
esque one.  The  walls  are  richly  gilded 
and  painted  with  representations  of 
flowers,  etc  On  the  E.  side  is  seated 
the  high  priest,  either  reading  from  a 
copy  of  the  GrarUh  which  lies  before 
him  on  an  ottoman,  or  waving  a  chauri, 
whilst  pilgrims  enter  and  throw  offer- 
ings of  cowries,  money,  or  flowers  into 
a  sheet  spread  in  the  middle  of  the 
floor  to  receive  them :  then  taking 
their  places  around  it  they  sit  down 
and  join  in  chanting  verses  of  the 
sacred  volume  to  the  music  of  stringed 
instruments. 

Cups  of  sugar  are  presented  to  the 
visitor,  who  may  in  return  make  an 
offering  of  1  r.  On  the  roof  above 
there  is  a  small  but  richly  decorated 
Shish  Mahal  or  pavilion,  where  it  is 
said  the  Guru  used  to  sit.  The  brooms 
kept  to  sweep  it  out  are  made  of  pea- 
cocks* feathers. 

Returning  to  the  gateway,  which 
has  doors  covered  with  massive  silver 
plates,  a  staircase  will  be  found  to 
lead  up  to  the  Trea.siiry,  in  which 
is  a  large  chest.  This  place  has  31 
pillars  or  poles  of  silver  9  ft.  long  and 
4^  in.  in  diameter,  and  4  larger  ones. 
In  the  chest  are  kept  3  gilt  maces,  a 
parikhahj  2  chauriSy  all  with  gilt 
handles,  a  canopy^  weighing  10  lbs.,  of 
pure  goldj  set  with  emeralds,  rubies, 
and  diamonds,  a  pendant  of  gold, 
a  coloured  plan  of  the  temple  and  a 
magnificent  diadem  of  diamonds  with 
strings  of  pearls  worn  as  pendants ; 
this  was  worn  by  Nau  Nihal  Sing. 
There  is  also  a  sort  of  gilt  arch  6  ft. 
high.  All  these  are  used  when  the 
Granbh  is  carried  in  procession.  In 
one  comer  a  large  heap  of  Cowry  shells 
will  be  observed.  They  are  offerings 
made  by  pilgrims. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  small  square 
facing  the  gateway  is  the  Akal  Buiigah, 
with  its  gut  dome.     This  temple  was 


built  in  the  time  of  Arjon,  the  fifth 
Guru.  A  low  staircase  leads  to  a  room 
with  a  projecting  window.  In  the 
room  is  a  gilt  ark,  on  the  floor  of  which 
are  a  number  of  things  covered  with  a 
cloth  ;  this  is  partly  removed,  and  a 
large  sword  is  taken  out  and  put  into 
the  visitor's  hand.  It  is  a  falchion  4  ft 
lon^  and  widening  towards  the  end. 
It  IS  said  to  be  the  sword  of  Gura 
Govind ;  a  mace  also  is  shown,  whicli 
was  wielded  by  one  of  the  Gurus. 
In  the  ark  are  also  the  vessels  for  initi- 
ating new  members  into  the  Sikh  Con- 
federacy ;  the  rite  of  initiation  is  called 
Pahal.  There  is  the  Charan  JPakal^  in 
which  the  novice  drinks  the  water  that 
has  washed  the  feet  of  the  Guru,  and 
has  some  of  it  sprinkled  on  his  hair. 
There  is  too  the  Shainshir  Pahaif  in 
which  the  novice  drinks  water  ^ured 
on  a  sword,  and  has  some  of  it  sprinkled 
over  his  hair. 

The  visitor  by  passing  round  to  the 
S.  side  of  the  enclosure  can  reach  the 
Darbar  Oarden,  as  it  is  called.  It 
is  30  acres  in  extent,  and  contains 
pomegranate,  orange,  and  other  fruit 
trees,  a  tank  called  Kaulsar,  and  several 
small  pavilions.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
garden  is  the  picturesque  Atal  Tower. 
Thfe  lower  room  is  richly  painted,  and 
is  30  ft.  in  diameter  inside.  Devotees 
on  entering  shampoo  the  step  of  the 
shrine  with  their  hands.  A  staircase 
leads  up  to  7  galleries ;  there  is  then 
a  wooden  ladder  which  ascends  to  an 
8  th, — the  entire  height  of  the  building 
is  131  ft. 

This  tower  is  dedicated  to  Atal  Hai, 
the  younger  son  of  flar  Govind,  who 
is  said  to  have  been  reproved  by  his 
father  for  raising  the  deceased  child  of 
a  widow  to  life.  His  father  said  that 
his  supernatural  powers  ought  to  be 
displayed  in  purity  of  doctrine  and 
hohness  of  life,  and  not  in  miracles, 
whereupon  Atal  £ai  said  that  as  a  life 
was  required  and  he  had  withheld  one, 
he  would  yield  up  his  own.  He  then 
lay  down  and  died ;  see  Cunningham's 
SikJis,  p.  58. 

Outside  the  Temple  enclosure  on  the 
E.  are  the  RaniffarliiTa  Hiaan,  vast 
and  grand,  but  not  handsome.  The 
one  to  the  N.  may  be  asoended.    At 


BOUTB  12.       LAHORE 


199 


the  top  there  is  a  good  view,  to  the 
N.W.  taking  in  a  white  temple  to  Shiva 
at  the  extremity  of  the  city,  built  by 
Sardar  Tej  Sine.  To  the  N.E.,  at  1 
m.  off,  St.  Paul  s  Church  is  seen  peep- 
ing out  amoDg  woods,  close  to  the 
D.B.  Govindgarh  Fort  appears  to  the 
W.  by  N. 

On  the  return  drive  pass  out  of  the 
Bam  Bagh  Gate  (the  only  remaining 
old  one)  of  the  city  to  the  Eotwau 
Chank.  The  Kotwali,  or  Police  Office, 
has  a  handsome  front.  To  the  left  is 
the  mos(|ue  of  Muhammad  Jan  ;  it  has 
three-white  domes  and  slender  minarets. 
Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  'Idgah ;  and 
close  to  it  is  the  mosque  of  Khan 
Muhammad.  To  the  right  is  a  fine 
tank,  and  i  m.  to  the  S.  are  the  Public 
Gardens,  which  are  about  40  acres  in 
extent.  In  the  centre  is  a  pavilion  in 
which  Banjit  Singh  stopped  when  he 
came  to  Amritsar.  The  grounds  are 
well  laid  out,  and  the  creepers  are 
beautiful. 

The  Fort  of  €K>yindgarh  is  a  short 
distance  to  the  N.  W.  of  the  city.  It  is 
garrisoned  with  a  battery  of  artillery 
and  a  company  of  British  infantry.  It 
was  built  by  Ranjit  Sing  in  1809,  but 
the  fortifications  were  traced  by  the 
Frendi  officers  in  his  service  on  scien- 
tific principles.  There  is  nothing  very 
interesting  to  the  traveller. 

Amongst  other  places  worthy  of 
a  visit  if  time  permits  are  the  Hall 
Baaaar,  the  ScuiUook  Shar  Twrik,  and 
the  Qovemmemt  and  Ghiwrch  Mission 
Schools. 

[14  m.  to  the  S.  of  Amritsar  is  Tarn 
Taran,  D.B.,  a  place  which  is  esteemed 
very  holy  by  the  Sikhs.  The  traveller 
will  pay  16  IS.  for  his  hired  shigrcm,, 
and  leave  the  city  by  the  Ohativind 
Gate,  which  is  the  one  to  the  S.£. 
After  50  yds.,  the  Hasli  Canal  is 
erosed ;  the  road  beyond  is  bad. 

From  this  the  Temple  and  Tower, 
which  are  the  sights  of  the  place,  are  a 
third  of  a  mile  distant.  They  are  situ- 
ated on  the  E.  side  of  a  magnificent 
tank,  which  is  kept  full  of  water  from 
the  Ban  Doab  Canal.  This  tank  was 
made  by  Ruijit  when  he  built  the 
temple.    The  Tisitor  will  have  to  take 


off  his  shoes  and  put  on  cloth  slippers 
before  descending  into  the  enclosure. 
The  lower  room  of  the  temple  has  been 
handsomely  painted  with  representa- 
tions of  trees,  while  the  outside  walls 
have  paintings  of  gods  and  goddesses. 
The  room  has  a  corridor  round  it,  on 
the  S.  side  of  which  is  the  Orantht 
enveloped  in  silk  wrappers,  and  fanned 
by  an  official  with  a  cmwri,. 

This  place  was  the  residence  of  the 
Guru  Arjun,and  is  older  than  Amritsar ; 
unlike  the  temples  at  that  city,  it  has 
no  writic^  on  the  waUs.  There  is  a 
small  pavilion  with  open  sides  on  the 
roof.  The  tank  is  said  to  possess 
miraculous  powers  to  cure  the  lepers 
who  can  swim  across  it  At  its  N.  corner 
is  a  tower  built  by  Nau  Nihal  Sing. 

The  neighbourhood  is  famous  as  the 
stronghold  of  the  Sikhs,  and  the  former 
recrmting  -  ground  for  their  army. 
There  is  a  leper  a^lum  outside  the 
town,  and  a  suburb  inhabited  by  those 
infected  with  the  disease,  from  which  it 
is  said  the  Guru  Aijun  himself  suffered.] 

[At  Amritsar  passengers  for  Dal- 
housie,  Chamba,  Kangra  and  Dhurm- 
sala  change  on  to  the  Amritsar- 
Pathankot  Rly. 

67  m.  Patbankot  terminus  sta.  (B.), 
D.B.  A  picturesque  town  with  a  16th 
cent.  Fort.  Here  a  tonga  may  be  pro- 
cured for,  34  m.,  Doneira,  D.  B.  Thence 
by  pony  or  dooly  (in  12  hrs.  from 
Amritsar)  to,  22  m.,  Dalhousie,  3^  a 
charming  hill-station  and  sanitarium 
7700  ft.  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by 
forests.  The  scenery  is  very  fine, 
especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Chamba,  D.B.,  12  m.  (ustant. 

The  scenery  in  the  Kangra  Valley 
(about  24  m.  m  the  direction  of  Simla), 
where  tea  is  grown,  is  remarkably  fine. 
A  high  ridge  separates  the  Kangra  from 
the  Kullu  Valley  E.  (see  Simla, Bte.  11).] 

184  UL  Heean  Heer  sta.  This  is  the 
military  station  of  Lahore. 

187  m.  LAHOSE  June,  sta.,  ^  D.B.  (B. 
good).  Lines  run  N.W.  to  Bawal  Pindi 
and  Peshawar,  and  S.W.  through  Sind 
to  Karachi  The  rly.  workshops  are 
very  extensive,  covering  126  acres ;  over 
2000  men  are  employed.    Good  houses. 


200 


ttOUTB  12.       UHBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


.1 


IndiA 


swimming  bath,  theatre,  recreation 
ground,  and  church  are  provided  for  the 
employ^.  A  tramway  runs  from  the 
rly.  sta.  to  the  native  town  1  m.  W. 

The  traveller  wishing  to  see  something  of 
Lahore  in  a  short  time  shoold  secure  a 
conveyance  at  the  rly.  sta.  He  should 
then  drive  to  the  so-called  Ohartng  Gross 
at  the  cross  roads  near  the  Punjab  Club, 
and  driving  E.  along  the  Hall  will  pass  (in 
the  order  in  which  they  are  named},  rt. 
the  entrance  to  the  Lawrence  Gardens; 
1.  the  Punjab  Glub ;  rt.  the  combined 
Lawrence  and  Montgomsry  Halls;  1. 
Oovemment  House,  the  residence  of  the  Lt.- 
Govemor ;  1.  Aitchison  or  Chiefs'  (College, 
8  m.  farther  in  the  same  direction  is  ^e 
Meean  Moer  Oaatonment  (p.  206).  Driving 
along  the  Kail  W.  tram  Charing  Cross  he  will 
pass  several  good  shops ;  L  Nedou's  Hotel ;  1. 
Lord  Lawrence's  Statue ;  rt  the  Oatbedral ; 
1.  the  Ohlef  Court  and  the  Accountants- 
Gnl.'s  Office  ;  several  Banks  and  then  rt.  the 
Telegraph  Office.  Near  a  slight  turn  in  the 
road  are  I.  the  Old  and  New  Museums,  and 
the  Post  Office,  and  beyond,  the  entrance 
to  the  Anarkali  Gardens.  Turning  N.  the 
Goremment  CoUege  and  SnaU  0.  Courts 
are  passed  rt ;  L  ])evuty  Commissioner's 
Court,  Model  School  and  Government 
SchooL  Further  B.  are  the  Hospltal^Mayo 
Hospital,  etc.  Slightly  deflecting  N.  W.  the 
Cemetery  ia  passed  1.,  and  a  little  Airther  on 
the  road  divides;  tiia'.  ■  leading  to  Shah 
Dara  (p.  206)  across  the  bridge  of  boats,  that 
rt.  works  round  by  the  Fort,  and  the  N.  wall 
of  the  city  back  to  the  rly.  sta. 

In  the  new  Public  Buildings  of  Lahore 
an  attempt  has  been  made  to  adopt  Hindu 
and  Mohammedan  styles  of  architecture  to  the 
requirements  of  modem  buildings. 

Lahore  *  is  a  municipal  city,  capital 
of  the  Punjab,  headquarters  of  the 
Lt. -Governor  and  the  Punjab  Govt,, 
and  the  seat  of  an  episcopal  see,  and 
headquarters  of  a  dismct  of  the  same 
name  (pop.  176,700).     Tradition  says 


says 
,  the 


that  Lahore  was  founded  by  Loh,  the 
elder  son  of  Rama  ;  no  mention  of  it, 
however,  is  made  by  Alexander's  his- 
torians, and  no  Grseco-Bactrian  coins 
are  found  among  the  ruins. 

The  first  reference  to  it  is  in  the 
Itinerary  of  the  Chinese  pilgrim  Hiouen 
Thsang,  in  the  7th  cent.  It  seems  then 
to  have  been  governed  by  a  family  of 
Chauhan  Rajputs,  from  whom  it  was 
wrested  by  the  Moslems  of  Ghazni,  but 
it  did  not  attain  to  magnificence  till 
the  reign  of  the  Moguls.  Akbar  en- 
larged and  repaired  the  fort,  and  sur- 

1  Thornton's  Lahore,  and  Syad  Mahammad 
Latif s  Lahore  give  very  full  accounts  of  the 


rounded  the  town  with  a  wall,  portioBfi 
of  which  still  remain,  built  mto  th& 
modern  wall  of  Ranjit  Singfa.  Jebangin 
also  often  resided  at  LaLore,  and  during 
his  reign  Arjun  Mall,  Guru  of  the  Sikhi 
compiler  of  the  Adi  Cfrcmth,  died  ii 
prison  here.    The  mausoleum  of  JehaBji 
gir  is  at  Shah  Dara,  4  m.  from  Lahoid 
(see  below).      Shah  Jehan  built  tbl 
palace  of  Lahore.     Aurangzib  built  tb 
great  mosque,  but  in  his  time  the  cit 
began  to  decline,  and  was  much  mine 
by  the  invasions  of  Ahmad  ShahDurani 

Under  Ranjit  Sing  Lahore  regains) 
some  of  its  former  splendour,  and  sine) 
the  period  of  the  British  rule,  whid 
commenced  in  1849,  buildings  haf^ 
greatly  multiplied.  Modem  Lahofl 
covers  an  area  of  640  acres,  and  is  sue 
rounded  by  a  brick  wall  15  ft.  high 
The  moat  has  been  filled  in  and  changsi 
to  a  garden,  which  encircles  the  city  en 
every  side  except  the  north.  Ametallai 
road  runs  round  the  rampart,  and  giv«l 
access  to  the  city  by  thirteen  gates. 

Within  the  ramiMurts  that  surround 
the  city,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  enclosurij 
and  K.  of  the  city  itself,  is  the  Oitadei 
usually  called  the  Fort.  The  Bai 
river  nowing  W.  once  washed  the  waSk 
of  the  city,  and  in  1662  made  sxuk 
encroachments  as  to  necessitate  thl 
construction  of  a  massive  embankmeot  1 
4  m.  long.  It  now  sweeps  round 
Lahore  and  passes  to  the  3.  at  abont 
1  m.  W.  of  the  city. 

The  Tomb  of  Anar  Eali,  ''Pome- 
granate Blossom "  (a  name  given  to  < 
a    favourite    lady    in    the    harem   of  j 
Akbar,  who  was  also  called   Nadirah  I 
Begam,  or  Sharifu-nissa),  is  an  octagon  '■ 
cased  in  plaster  and  surmounted  1^  s 
dome.    It  was  for  many  years  used  as 
the  church  of  the  civil  station.     The 
cenotaph,  now  placed  at  the  £.  end 
of  the  central  chamber,  is  for  some 
reasons  one  of  the  most  interesting 
things  to  be  seen  in   Lahore.     It  is 
of  the  purest  white  marble,  and  the 
words  carved  on  it  are  so  ezquisitel}' 
formed  as  to  surpass  anything  of  the 
kind  in  India.     On  its  faoe  and  sides 
are  inscribed  the  99  names  of  God.    Oo 
the  side,  below  the  names  of  the  Deity, 
is  written  Majnun  ScUim  Akbar,  "The 
profoundly  enamoured  Salim,  loo  of 


^    — ^.-^ 


€^Mt>rifivttl/.   rd^ttirttS  yi/l£rm> 


2bmh 


c<r?y 


j€iliiiHar«lu»lam<.-«-&  Co..K'1m 


ROUTE  12.      LAHOBI 


801 


Iftr,"   Salim    beinc    the   name   of 

Migir.       Then   fofiows   a    Persian 

The  date,  given  in  letters  and 

g^res,  corresponds  to  1599.     Akbar 

;  on  the  13th  October  1605,  so  that 

I  tomb  may  have  been  erected  about 

t  years  before  his  death.     On  the  W. 

^  is  another  date,  above  the  words 

i  Lahore,"  corresponding  to  1615, 

I  is  probably  the  date  of  the  building 

^be  tomb,  while  the  other  refers  to 

»  death  of  Anar  Kali.     The  story  is 

Vi  Anar  Kali  was  beloved  by  Salim, 

^  was  seen  by  Akbar,  his  father,  to 

ffle  when   the    Prince  entered    the 

rem.     As  a  punishment  for  this  it 

said  that  she  was  buried  alive ;  and 

0  distich  engraved  on  her  sarcophagus 
rtainly  indicates  that  Salim  was  ner 
rer. 

The  Oathedial  is  a  cruciform  build- 
g  of  brick,  occupying  a  very  central 
ke  £.  of  the  Telegraph  Office. 
The  old  building,  called  the  Shah 
Hrctgh  is  used  as  the  Acoonntant- 
Bnenl's  Offioe — the  additions  were 
ndgned  by  Mr.  Oldrid  Scott 

^  m.  N.  of  the  Cathedral  are  the 
ktyo  Hospital,  the  Medical  School  (the 
figest  in  India),  the  Lady  Aitchiaon 
tospiUU,  and  the  Training  Home  for 

The  Museum,  called  by  the  natives 
kja'ib  Garh,  is  near  the  Anar  £ali 
srdens.  On  a  raised  platform  in 
ont  of  the  entrance  to  the  old  build- 
Ig  is  the  famous  gau  called  the 
amzamah,  ^*  Hummer,"  but  the  word 
bo  means  a  lion's  roar.  The  Sikhs 
illed  it  the  Bhangianwali  Top,  that 

1  the  cannon  of  the  Bhangi  confeder- 

LThe  gun  was  made  by  Shah  Wali 
n,  Yazir  of  Ahmad  Shah  Durani, 
ad  was  used  by  him  at  the  battle  of 
anipat.  After  Ahmad  Shah  left  India 
;  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Bhangi 
[isl,  and  Raigi^  eventually  got  posses- 
ion of  it,  and  used  it  at  the  si^ge  of 
[ooltan  in  1818.  It  was  then  placed 
t  the  Delhi  Gate  of  Lahore  until  1860, 
rhen  it  was  removed  to  its  present 
ite.  The  Persian  inscriptions  on  it 
ive  the  date  of  casting,  1762  a.d. 
The  Museum  contains  specimens  of 
lie  antiquities,  arts,  manufactures,  and 


raw  products — vegetable,  mineral,  and 
animal — of  the  Punjab. 

In  the  archseological  department 
there  is  a  stone  with  an  ihscription  of 
the  time  of  Ki&g  Gondophares,  who  is 
said  to  have  put  St.  Thomas  to  death  ; 
the  bases  of  2  pillars  brought  by 
General  Cunningham  from  Shah  ka 
Dera,  which  he  thinks  to  be  the  ancient 
Taxila ;  numerous  Buddhist  sculptures 
from  the  Yusufzai  country  and  else- 
where, in  which  Greek  influence  is 
plainly  discerned ;  an  ^'ancient  Hindu" 
(more  probably  Buddhist)  nillar  about 
9  ft.  high,  witn  a  huge  hcAd  projecting 
on  one  side,  dug  up  near  Jhelum  ;  also 
two  old  brass  cannon  found  buried  in  a 
mound,  of  Anandpur  in  the  district  of 
Hoshiyarpur,  thought  to  be  of  the  time 
of  Guru  Govind.  There  are  only  two 
relics  of  the  prehistoric  age.  They  are 
two  finely  finished  celts  found  in  Swat, 
of  porphyritic  greenstone.  The  coins 
are  kept  in  a  strong  box,  and  can  be 
seen  on  application  to  the  Curator. 

There  is  a  series  of  portraits,  repre- 
senting princes  and  chiefs  of  the  Panjab ; 
they  are  by  an  Indian  artist,  and  as 
specimens  of  art  cannot  be  much  praised. 
Among  ornaments  worn  by  the  people 
may  be  noticed  the  perak,  a  sort  of 
coif  used  by  maidens  in  Lahaul  and 
Spiti,  in  whach  a  number  of  turquoises 
are  sewn.  There  is  also  a  good  collec- 
tion of  musical  instruments  of  the 
country ;  specimens  of  pottery  and 
Pui^ab  glass,  and  of  the  Koftgari  work 
of  Gujrat  and  Sialkot ;  cups  and  orna- 
ments of  vitreous  enamel  from  Bahawal- 
pur ;  silver  inlaid  in  pewter,  and 
perforated  metal -work  from  Delhi. 
Observe  too  a  dageer  with  small  pearls 
set  loosely  in  the  blade. 

There  are  good  specimens  of  the  silk 
manufactures  of  Bahawalpur  and  Mool- 
tan,  and  the  satinettes  are  excellent. 
Also  a  curious  embroidery  of  soft  floss 
silk  on  eotton  called  s^isMar^AWArari, 
interspersed  among  which  are  small 
mirrors  ;  rude  id<^s  hideously  painted, 
which  were  worshipped  by  the  ladies  of 
the  Sikh  Court ;  an  exhibition  of  the 
leathern  ware  of  the  Panjab  ;  a  collec- 
tion of  ethnographical  heads  by  Messrs. 
Schlagentweit ;  lay  figures  habited  in 
the  costumes  of  the  people  of  Lahaul, 


202 


KOUTB  12.   UMBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


India 


Spiti,  and  Ladakh ;  and  Thibetan 
curiosities,  such  as  prayer-wheels. 

In  the  mineral  section  will  be  seen 
the  model  of  the  Koh-i-NwTy  made 
for  the  Exhibition  of  1851.  According 
to  the  Hindus,  this  diamond  belongea 
to  Kama,  King  of  Anga,  and  according 
to  the  Persians,  it  and  its  sister 
diamond  the  Darya-i-Nur,  or '"Sea  of 
Light,"  were  worn  by  Afrasiyab.  The 
Sea  of  Light  is  now  at  Teheran  in  the 
Shah's  treasury,  which  contains  the 
finest  jewels  in  the  world.  It  is  said 
that  Nadir  brought  the  Koh-i-Nur  from 
Delhi,  and  when  he  was  killed  it  fell 
into  the  hands  of  Ahmad  Shah  Durani, 
and  from  him  it  descended  to  Shah 
Shuja'a,  his  grandson,  from  whom  Ban- 
jit  took  it  on  the  first  of  June  1818.  In 
1849  it  was  made  over  to  the  British, 
and  delivered  to  the  Queen  in  1850. 
It  was  re-cut  in  London  by  Costa  of 
Amsterdam,  at  a  cost  of  £8000,  and  its 
weight  was  diminished  from  186  carats 
to  102J. 

There  are  also  specimens  of  the 
mineral  resources  of  the  country. 
Among  them  will  be  seen  iron  ore  from 
Bajor.  It  is  a  magnetic  oxide  of 
singular  purity.  Antimony  and  lead 
are  also  shown,  and  gold  found  in  the 
sands  of  the  Panjab  rivers  in  small 
quantities.  Specimens  of  rock-salt  of 
two  kinds,  one  from  the  hills  between 
the  Jhelum  and  the  Indus,  and  the 
other  from  the  hills  beyond  the  Indus 
are  shown.  There  is  a  fair  collection 
of  birds  and  insects. 

Lahore  possesses  a  flourishing  School 
of  Art,  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  Curator  of  the  Museum. 

The  Punjab  Library,  is  said  by  some 
to  have  been  built  by  Vazir  ELhan,  by 
others  by  Ilahi  Bakhsh.  It  is  a  hand- 
some building,  with  four  white  cupolas, 
and  contains  some  valuable  books. 

Not  far  off  is  the  shrine  of  a  Moham- 
medan saint  called  Hauj-i-Darya.  Over 
the  door  is  a  Persian  inscription  which 
says  it  is  the  tomb  of  Saiyad  Muhammad 
Shah  Mauj-i-Darya,  son  of  Nurullah, 
who  was  a  spiritual  guide  in  the  time 
of  Akbar. 

W.  of  the  new  Museum  is  the  Town 
Hall,  opened  by  H.R.H.  the  late  Duke 
of  Clarence  in  1890. 


The  Natiye  Town  and  Fori— The 
picturesqueness  of  the  old  town  must 
appeal  to  every  one,  but  to  artists 
it  will  be  found  of  especial  interest 
The  balconies  and  projecting  oriel 
windows  of  the  irregular  brick  houses, 
together  with  the  variety  and  colour 
of  the  costumes  of  the  people,  form  a 
striking  picture.  Travellers  should 
not  fail  to  drive  through  the  bazaan 
on  their  way  to  (or  from)  the  Fort, 
entering  by  the  Delhi  gate 

A  narrow  street  leads  to  an  mser 
gate  which  opens  into  a  chauk  or  square^ 
where  is  the  very  beautiful  Hosqin  o( 
Vaiir  Khan.  It  was  built  in  1684  \if 
Hakim  'Alau-din  of  Chiniot,  Varir 
of  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan.  •  The  bride 
walls  are  covered  with  beautiftd  inlaH 
work  called  Kashi  or  Nakkashi.  Itii 
a  kind  of  mosaic  of  glazed  pottery  and 
tiles.  The  colours  of  the  tiles  are  bonifc 
in,  and  they  are  set  in  hard  mortm 
Over  the  noble  entrance  is  written  ' 
Persian,  **  Eemove  thy  heart  from  th« 
gardens  of  the  world,  and  know  thifr 
this  building  is  the  true  abode  of  man  * 
It  was  completed  in  the  reign  of  Shah 
Jehan.  The  architect  was  Hidayata 
'llah,  the  faithful  servant  of  Yaar 
Khan.  In  the  centre  front  of  th» 
mosque  is  the  Moslem  creed,  and  is 
panels  along  the  fa9ade  are  beautilally 
written  verses  from  the  Koran.  A 
Persian  inscription  gives  the  date  164i>j 
A.D.  From  the  gallery  round  the^ 
minaret,  about  8  ft.  broad,  there  is  y 
very  fine  view  over  the  city,  which  i»i 
truly  Oriental  and  picturesq  ue.  ! 

Leaving  the  mosque  of  Vazir  Khan,  \ 
and  proceeding  along  a  street  remark- 1 
able  for  balconies  richly  carved,  the 
visitor  will  come  to  the  Sonai  Hnsjidt ; 
or  Golden  Mosque,  which  has  three  gilt  i 
domes,  and  was  built  in  1758  A.D.  by 
Bikhwari  Khan,  a  favourite  of  tk 
widow   of   Mir  Mannu,  a   lady  who 

governed  Lahore  some  time  after  her 
usband's  death.  He  is  said  to  have 
displeased  the  lady,  whose  female  attend- 
ants beat  him  to  death  with  their  shoes. 
The  situation  of  this  mosque 'at  the 
junction  of  two  streets  is  pioturesqnei 
In  a  courtyard  behind  the  mosque  is 
a  large  well,  with  steps  descending  to 
the  water's  edge.   It  is  said  to  have  been 


BOUTE  12.      LAHOBB 


203 


!  dag  by  Aijas,  the  fifth  Gura.  Passing 
i  along  the  narrow  winding  street,  the 
visitor  will  now  come  to  an  open  space 
called  the  Hira  Mandi,  whence  is  a  fine 
view  of  the  Fort  and  the  JummaMnsjid; 
and  tnrning  to  the  right,  under  a  gate- 
way between  the  fort  and  the  mosque, 
.he  will  enter  the  pretty  garden  called 
the  Haznri  Bagh.  On  the  rt.  (E.  side)  is 
.the  high  crenellated  wall  of  the  Fort,  and 
in  its  centre  is  the  Akbari  Darwasali 
(or  Hazuri  Bagh  Gate),  built  by  -the 
Emperor  Akbar.  It  was  formerly  the 
^trance  to  the  citadel,  but  is  now  closed. 
I  The  towers  of  this  budding  will  attract 
attention  by  the  peculiarity  of  their  de- 
ilign.  The  Hazuri  Bagh  forms  an  outer 
I  court  to  the  mosque.  In  its  centre  is  the 
\farahdarif  a  beautiful  pavilion,  built  by 
pfcmjitwith white  marble  taken  from  the 
^mbs  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir  and  the 
Impress  Nur  Jehan  at  Shahdara. 

On  the  farther  ( W. )  side  of  it  is  the 
Ijfomiiia  Husjid,  raised  on  a  lofty  plat- 
llorm  supported  by  arches.  A  vast  night 
«f  steps  leads  up  to  the  gate  of  the 
:  mosque.  In  a  chamber  above  the 
irchway  are  preserved  the  dusty  relics 
>of  the  Prophet  and  his  family.  They 
consist  of  turbans  of  'Ali  and  of  his 
i«ons  Hasan  and  Husain,  a  cap  with 
;  Arabic  writing  on  it,  the  prayer-carpet 
of  Fatima,  a  slipper  of  Mohammed,  and 
the  mark  of  his  foot  impressed  in  a 
Istone.  There  are  also  a  vestment  of 
the  Prophet,  his  prayer-carpet,  and  a 
green  turban.  Besides  these  there  is  a 
lair  of  the  Prophet's  beard,  of  a  red 
colour.  There  were  a  dozen  formerly, 
bnt  all  have  perished  except  this  one. 
There  is  also  some  red  earth  from  Kar- 
bala.  There  is  a  decayed  tooth,  which 
is  said  to  have  belonged  to  one  of  the 
Imams.  The  mosque  was  built  by 
Aurangzeb  with  the  funds  derived  from 
the  confiscated  estates  of  his  Eldest 
brother  Dara  Shikoh,  whom  he  killed. 
It  has  consequently  never  been  liked 
as  a  place  of  prayer.  The  revenues  of 
Mooltan  were  assigned  for  its  support. 
Over  the  entrance  is  written  the  Moslem 
creed,  and  then  in  Persian  the  date 
=  1674. 

Of  the  four  minarets,  all  of  which 
are  disfigured  by  the  loss  of  one  story, 
only  that  to  the  S.W.  is  open.     The 


cupolas  were  so  much  injured  by  an 
earthquake  that  it  was  necessary  to  take 
them  down. 

The  mosque  is  built  6f  red  sandstone, 
and  the  fa^de  of  the  mosque  proper  is 
beautifully  adorned  with  white  marble 
flowers.  It  has  1  large  and  10  smaller 
archways  facing  the  court,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  8  white  marble  domes. 

The  mosque  is  now  very  much  ne- 
glected, from  the  reasons  above  de- 
scribed. Banjit  Sing  made  a  magazine 
of  it.  Its  magnificent  proportions  excite 
admiration,  and  the  quadrangle  being 
overshadowed  by  fine  trees  produces  an 
unusual  and  very  pleasing  effect.  It 
was  not  till  1856  that  the  mosque  was 
restored  to  the  Mohammedans  as  a  place 
of  worship. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Hazuri  Bagh 
are  the  cremation  places  of  Ranjit,  the 
Samadh  of  Ehark  Sing,  and  of  Nau 
Nihal  Sing. 

The  glittering  white  building  rather 
out  of  keeping  with  the  solemn  mosque, 
its  neighbour,  is  the  Banjit  Sing's 
Samadli,  restored  in  part  1840.  It 
faces  the  W.  wall  of  the  Fort,  and  is 
a  square  stucco  building  on  a  high 
platform  of  marble.  The  ceilings  are 
decorated  with  traceries  in  stucco  inlaid 
with  mirrors.  The  arches  of  the  interior 
are  of  marble,  but  strengthened  with 
brick  and  chunam,  and  clamped  with 
iron,  by  order  of  Sir  D.  M'Leod  when 
lieut -Governor  of  the  Panjab.  In  the 
centre  is  a  raised  platform  of  marble,  on 
which  is  a  lotus  flower  carved  in  marble, 
surrounded  hj  eleven  smaller  flowers. 
The  central  flower  coyers  the  ashes  of 
Ranjit ;  the  others  those  of  four  wives 
and  seven  concubines  who  became  satis 
and  underwent  cremation  with  his 
corpse. 

N.  of  this  mausoleum,  and  by  the 
side  of  the  road  leading  from  the 
Roshanai  Gate  to  the  pkin,  outside 
the  Fort,  is  the  Shrine  of  Azjan,  the 
fifth  Guru,  and  compiler  of  the  Adi 
Qrcmth,  which  is  read  in  Ranjit's  Sam- 
adh daily,  in  a  huge  volume  over  which 
attendants  reverently  wave  chauries. 

Facing  this  building  is  the  Roshanai 
Gate  of  the  Fort.  A  steep  incline, 
made  by  the  English,  leads  into  the 
interior,  but  before  ascending  it,  the 


204 


ROUTE  12.      UMBAliLA.  TO  LAHORB 


India 


attention  of  the  viaitor  will  be  arrested 
by  the  peculiar  decoration  of  the  walls 
of  the  Palace  of  Akbar,  which  faces 
him.  The  facade  is  inlaid  with  a 
mosaic  of  encanstic  tiles,  representing 
grotesque  figures  of  men,  horses,  and 
elephants,  engaged  in  hunting,  and 
also  the  angels,  who,  according  to  old 
Persian  mythology,  preside  oyer  the 
days  and  months.  In  spandrels  over 
arcaded  compartments  in  front  of  the 
part  of  the  palace  attributed  to  Jehan- 
gir  are  four  representations  of  the  rising 
sun.  Other  spandrels  show  chemlw 
like  those  in  Christian  churches, 
which  were  perhaps  borrowed  from  the 
Jesuit  church  established  by  Portuguese 
missionaries  at  Lahore.  In  support  of 
this  it  may  be  said  that  Bemier  men- 
tions that  Jehangir,  in  compliment  to 
the  missionaries,  placed  an  image  of  the 
Virgin  in  a  promuent  position.  It  is 
worth  while  walking  round  the  walls 
to  the  1.  to  study  these  designs. 

The  Palace  of  Ahbar  is  on  the  ex- 
treme E.  of  the  Fort.  To  it  succeeds 
a  part  built  by  Jehangir,  and  then  a 
curtain  wall  between  two  hexagonal 
towers  ascribed  to  Shah  Jehan,  to 
which  Aurangzib  and  the  Sikhs  made 
additions. 

Near  the  top  of  the  incline,  L,  is  the 
Hoti  Husjid,  or  Pearl  Mosque,  of  white 
marble,  with  three  domes.  Over  the 
arched  entrance  into  the  outer  court  are 
a  Persian  inscription  and  date  corre- 
sponding to  1698  A.D.  The  inner  door 
has  four  large  padlocks  and  four  strong 
chains.  Banjit  Singh  kept  his  treasure 
here,  and  the  British  use  it  for  the  same 
purpose.  Several  sentries  are  posted 
in  the  inner  court,  in  the  passage,  and 
at  the  outer  door. 

Proceeding  to  the  E.,  the  visitor  will 
eome  to  a  small  Sikh  temple  built  by 
the  order  of  Dulip  Sing's  mother. 

Close  to  the  Moti  Musjid  is  the  Shish 
Uahal,  or  Palace  of  Mirrors,  which  is 
the  joint  work  of  Shah  Jehan  and 
Aurangzib.  The  E.  wall  of  this  building 
did  not  exist  in  Ran  jit  Singh's  time,  and 
there  was  an  extensive  coiui;  into  which 
he  used  to  pass  from  the  Moti  Mosque, 
through  a  handsome  folding -door 
studded  with  gilt  bosses. 

In  the  centre  of  the  W.  side  of  the 


quadrangle  is  a  beautiful  white  marble 
pavilion  called  Natl  Lakha,  as  it  is 
said  to  have  cost  9  lakhs  or  900, 000  rs. 
This  beautiful  work  of  art  is  inlaid 
after  the  fashion  so  well  known  at 
Agra.  Between  the  pillars  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  quadrangle  walls  have  beea 
erected,  and  thus  an  Armoury  (set 
below)  has  been  formed. 

The  Shish  Mahal  was  the  place  when 
the  sovereignty  of  the  Panjab  was  trai»> 
ferred  to  the  British  Government.  Here 
too  Ranjit  Singh  held  his  receptions. 
In  the  small  rooms  leading  to  the  uj^ier 
tower  the  ceilings  are  cut  into  geo- 
metrical patterns.  These  paintings  and 
the  mirror  work  with  which  the  walb 
and  ceilings  are  ornamented  were 
done  by  the  Sikhs,  and  ill  agree  witii 
the  chaste  beauty  of  the  Mogul  archi- 
tecture.  The  windows  look  out  to* 
wards  the  Badami  Garden  to  the  K. 
On  this  plain  Ranjit  Singh  used  to  hold 
reviews.  There  used  to  be  fountains 
in  the  centre  of  the  quadrangle,  and 
their  basin  still  remains.  In  the  inlaid 
work  of  the  pavilion  there  were  formerly 
valuable  stones,  but  these  have  bees 
all  picked  out. 

In  the  Aimonxy  the  visitor  will  re- 
mark the  round  shield  of  Gum  Govind. 
It  is  of  rhinoceros  hide,  and  has  a 
single  boss.  His  battle-axe  is  alao 
shown,  the  blade  of  which  is  of 
fine  Damascus  steel.  Here  too  will 
be  seen  the  arms  taken  from  the  Sikhs 
by  the  English  ;  some  of  the  helmets 
are  inscribed  Akal  Sipahi.  The  long 
gauntleted  swords  are  merely  used  in 
fencing.  There  are  many  cuirasses 
which  belonged  to  the  regiments  com- 
manded by  French  officers,  with  brass 
cocks  upon  them.  There  are  also  rings 
of  steel  which  were  used  as  missiles  m 

ar,  j»rticularly  by  the  AkaHs.    The 

ests  of  these  soldiers,  called  Jikars,' 
in  the  shape  of  a  bar  passing  through 
two  semicircles,  and  crowned  with  a 
ball,  are  exhibited.  There  are  also 
some  cannon  with  barrels  which  tnni 
like  those  of  a  revolver,  and  a  number 
of  camel  guns  and  an  obus,  inscribed 
in  Persian,  "Path  ya  shahid,  1815. 
Victory  or  death."  Many  coats  of 
mail  mil  also  be  observed. 

Parallel  with  the  tower  of  the  Sfaisit 


war, 
cr< 


BOUTB  12.      EXPEDITIONS  FROM  LAHORE 


205 


as  another  tower  called  Saman 
great  height 

iowIb  an  £.  direction  to  the 
KbBB.  It  is  a  beantifol  build- 
tiite  marble,  supported  on  32 
,  and  is  now  used  by  the  English 
rch.  There  is  an  aperture  in 
>r  perforated  screen,  on  the  N., 
ft  sq.,  at  which  the  Enrperor 
heard  his  Arzbegi  read  the 
I  from  the  roof  of  a  building 
Led,  24  ft.  below. 
£.  of  this  is  the  AkbariHahal, 
nented  Hindu  pavilion,  now 
he  apothecary's  quarters, 
the  Diwan-i-Khas  67  steps  lead 
the  ditch  between  the  outer. 
I  the  N.  wall  of  the  palace ; 
yds.  from  this  you  pass  S.  to 
abgah-i-Kalan,  which  is  of  red 
e,  but  has  been  whitewashed, 
itraves  of  the  pillars  are  well 
the  Hindu  fashion  with  repre- 
18  of  elephants  and  birds,  as 
^ose  of  the  Akbari'  Mahal, 
bhe  centre  of  the  Fort  is  the 
'Am  (now  used  as  barracks), 
ilding  is  of  red  sandstone, 
d  in  the  centre  by  12  columns. 
T  arches  haye  been  filled  in  to 
lis,  and  the  whole  has  been 
ihed.  In  the  centre  is  the 
li,  or  "throne  place,"  where 
eror  sat  The  ascent  is  by  12 
d' there  are  several  rooms  be- 
n  the  front  of  the  building  are 
ins  of  a  red  sandstone  railing, 
dch  only  the  nobles  could  come. 
is,  where  now  stands  a  dump 
was  a  tomb,  out  of  which  a 
n  used  to  warn  the  Emperar 
nras  mortal. 

!  £.  is  the  Hospital,  a  building 
as  erected  by  Chand  Eauwar 
residence,  and  there  she  was 
by  order  of  Sher  Sing,  and 
9ath  according  to  his  commands 
&nd  maidens.  E.  of  the  Diwan- 
ad  adjoining  it  is  the  house  of 
ig,  which  was  four  stories  high, 
'  two  now  remain, 

Central  Prison,  S.  of  Govern - 
ouse,  and  at  the  extreme  S.  of 
il  Station,  is  one  of  the  best 
I  in  India,  and  is  capable  of 


holding  2276  prisoners.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  describe  the  building. 

During  the  Mutiny,  80,000  cartridges 
were  made  by  convict  mutineers,  besiaes 
thousands  of  sandbags  for  the  siege  of 
Delhi.  The  most  notable  manufac- 
tures in  the  prison  are  rugs  and  carpets. 
The  carpets  (only  made  to  order)  re- 
semble those  of  Persia,  and  tradesmen 
in  London  and  America  purchase  them 
annually  to  a  large  value. 

In  the  Lawrence  Gardens,  which 
cover  112  acres,  are  large  varieties  of  trees 
and  shrubs  of  different  species.  The 
visitor  will  remark  the  Pirms  l(mgifolia, 
the  Australian  gum  tree,  and  the  carob 
tree  of  Syria.    There  is  also  a  menagerie. 

At  the  N.  side  is  the  Lawrence  Hall, 
built  in  memory  of  Sir  J.  Lawrence  in 
1862,  fronting  the  road  ;  and  the  Mont- 
gomery Hall,  built  in  1866,  in  memory 
of  Sir  R.  Montgomery,  facing  the  central 
avenue  of  the  gardens.  A  covered 
corridor  connects  them.  Montgomery 
Hall  contains  portraits  of  Sir  Henry 
Lawrence  and  tne  Lt. -Governors  of  the 
Province,  and  other  celebrated  Anglo- 
Indians. 

Gtoyemment  House  is  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  the  Lawrence  Gardens  to 
the  N.  It  was  the  tomb  of  Muhammad 
Kasim  Khan,  cousin  of  the  Emperor 
Akbar.  He  was  a  great  patron  of 
wrestlers,  and  his  tomb  used  to  be  called 
KuahUwaia  Chmbaz,  or  Wrestler's 
Dome.  There  are  some  noble  trees  in 
the  grounds,  and  a  good  swimming  bath. 

Near  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  Civil 
Station  is  a  building  called  Chaubuij, 
"  Four  Towers,"  which  has  been  a  gate- 
way to  a  garden,  with  4  minars,  whence 
its  name.  This  beautiful  building  is 
faced  with  blue  and  green  encaustic 
tiles.  The  greater  part  of  the  dome 
has  &llen. 

Expeditions  from  Lahore. 

Shalimar  Ctardens  are  6  m.  E.  from 
the  milestone  near  the  Tanksal  Gate  of 
Lahore,  whence  the  measurements  are 
made  to  Peshawar  and  other  places. 
About  i  m.  before  reaching  them  is  the 
gateway  to  the  Qulabi  Bagh  or  Rose 
Garden,  laid  out  in  1655  by  Sultan 
Beg,  Admiral  of  the  fleet  to  Shah  Jehan. 


Ml 


206 


BOUTS  12.   UHBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


InSHa 


The  Nakkashi  work  of  colonred  tiles 
on  the  gate  is  very  beautiful,  and  hardly 
inferior  to  that  on  Yazir  Khan's  Mosque. 
On  the  gateway  is  inscribed  in  Persian : 

Sweet  is  this  garden,  throngh  envy  of  which 

the  tulip  is  spotted, 
The  rose  of  the  son  and  moon  forms  its  beauti- 

Ml  lamp. 

Opposite  to  the  Gulabi  Bagh,  across 
a  field,  is  the  Tomb  of  'Ali  Hardan 
Khan,  the  celebrated  engineer,  who  also 
laid  out  the  Shalimar  Gardens.  Its 
lofty  archway  retains  traces  of  ex- 
quisitely coloured  tiles.  Fifty  yds.  S. 
of  this  is  the  octa^nal  tomb  of  'Ali 
Mardan,  built  of  bnck. 

There  are  many  dargahs  and  gardens, 
to  which  on  holidays  crowds  (»  people 
go  on  pilgrimage. 

The  Shalimar  Gardens  were  laid  out 
in  1637  A.D.  b^  order  of  Shah  Jehan. 
They  are  divided  into  three  parts, 
in  tiers  of  various  levels.  The  whole 
extent  is  about  80  acres,  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  with  a  large  gateway  and 
pavilions  at  each  corner.  Canals  tra- 
verse the  garden,  and  there  is  a  tank 
in  the  centre,  with  an  island  and  a 
passage  across  to  it.  There  are  100 
small  fountains  in  the  first  garden,  and 
double  that  number  in  the  tank.  The 
trees  are  chiefly  mangoes,  and  the 
sarden  is  laid  out  in  monotonous  square 
beds.  Once,  when  the  cement  was  in- 
tact and  the  frescoes  new,  it  must  have 
been  a  very  pretty  place,  but  now  it  is 
decayed  and  shabby. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  are 
two  other  gardens,  the  Sindanwalas 
and  Misr  Bixj  Lai's ;  and  to  the  E. 
there  is  also  Jamadar  Khnahhal  Sing's 
garden,  and  across  the  road  to  the  N.  E. 
Lehna  Sing's. 


The  military  cantonment  of  Ueean 
Meer  is  situated  5  m.  to  the  S.E.  of 
the  Civil  Station. 

The  cantonment  contains  a  garrison 
of  1  Brit.  regt. ,  2  battmes,  2  native 
line  regiments,  and  1  native  cavalry. 

About  J  m.  to  the  N.W.,  on  the  rt. 
of  the  road  leading  to  the  cantonment 
is  the  Shrine  of  Meean  Meer,  a  saint 
from  whom  the  cantonment  has  its 
name.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  a 
quadrangle,  200  ft.   sq.,  on  a  marble 


platform.  Banjit  took  away  much 
the  marble  for  his  barahdari  in  tb 
Hazuri  Bagh,  and  to  make  amendi 
had  the  inside  painted  with  flowers 
Over  the  entrance  are  an  inscription  ii 
Persian  and  date = 1635  a.  d.  The  lei 
side  of  the  enclosure  is  occupied  by 
mosque. 

Returning  towards  the  city,  th 
traveller  will  pass  on  the  right  tli 
village  of  Shahu-U-ahuri,  where  are 
number  of  large  tombs,  some  wi" 
cupolas,  but  all  more  or  less  mini 
W.  of  the  village,  at  800  yds.  from  til 
main  road,  is  the  most  venerated  torn 
in  Lahore  or  its  vicinity.  It  is  calle 
the  Tomb  of  Bibi  Pakdaman,  '*Tl! 
Chaste  Ladies."  This  saint  was 
daughter  of  the  younger  brother  of 
by  a  different  mother.  Her  real  n 
was  Bukiyah  Ehanum,  and  she  w 
the  eldest  of  six  sisters,  who  are  i 
buried  here,  and  who  fled  with  her 
Baghdad,  siter  the  massacre  at  Ea 
bala ;  she  died  in  728  a.d.,  at  the  a^ 
of  90.  The  road  is  narrow  and  ba 
The  place  is  remarkable  for  a  number 
very  old  Waair  trees.  It  is  expect! 
that  the  visitor  will  take  off  his  she 
There  are  five  enclosures,  and  the  to] 
of  Rukiyah  is  in  the  fifth.  It  is  of  brie 
whitewashed. 

Shah  Dara  is  situated  beyond  t] 
Bridge  of  Boats  on  the  right  bank  i 
the  fiavi,  about  IJ  m.  to  tneN".  of  tX 
railway  bridge  over  that  river.  Tl 
journey  by  rail  is  5  m.  to  the  Shi 
Dara  sta. ,  from  which  the  Tomb  of  t] 
Emperor  Jehaagir  is  1^  m.  It  is 
convenient  to  go  in  a  carriage  (aboi 
5i  m.  drive). 

After  crossing  the  railway  a 
domed  building  will  be  passed  on 
the  1.  This  is  the  tomb  of  Asif 
Khan  (see  below);  and  shortly  after 
an  enclosure  will  be  entered  which  has 
been  the  sarai  or  outer  court  of  the 
mausoleum.  An  archway  of  white 
marble,  and  60  ft  high,  leads  into  the 
court  of  the  mausoleum,  which  forms 
a  garden.  The  passage  to  the  tomb  is 
paved  with  beautifully  streaked  marble 
from  Jeypore  and  other  places.  The 
cenotaph  is  of  white  marble,  inlaid  with 
pietra  dura  work,  and  stands  in  the 
centre  of  an  octi^gonal  chamber.    On 


BOUTB  13.      LAHORB  TO  PESHAWAR 


207 


»  £.  and  W.  sides  are  the  99  names 
Grod,  most  beautifully  carved,  and  on 
I  S.  side  is  inscribed,  "  The  Glorious 
mb  of  His  High  Majesty,  Asylum 
Protectors,  Nuru-din  Muhammad, 
i  Emperor  Jehangir,"  1627  A.D.  On 
)  four  sides  are  exquisite  screens  of 
tice-work. 

Fnst  outside  the  entrance,  and  to  the 
ht  of  it,  is  a  staircase  which  leads  up 
the  flat  square  roof  of  the  building, 
rered  with  a  magnificent  tessellated 
r»ment  At  eacn  comer  is  a  min- 
st,  95  ft.  high  from  the  platform.  A 
irble  parapet  ran  round  the  pave- 
int,  but  was  taken  away  by  Riemjit 
pgh  ;  it  is  being  gradually  restored. 
^  minarets  are  four  stories  lugh, 
|i  are  built  of  magnificent  blocks  of 
pne  8  ft.  long.  IVom  the  top  there 
a  fine  view  to  the  S.E.  over  the  Ravi 
the  city. 

The  Tomb  of  Asaf  Khan,  brother  of 
ie  Empress  Nur  Jehan,  stands  in  an 
dosure  immediately  to  the  W.  of  the 
hd.  It  is  an  octagon  surmounted 
r  a  dome.  It  has  been  utterly  ruined 
Id  almost  entirely  stripped  of  the 
^ely  Nakkashi  work  which  once 
bmed  it.  In  the  portals  some  fra^- 
imts  still  remain  to  show  how  glori- 
is  it  once  was.  The  cenotaph  is  of 
Idte  marble.  The  Tughra  writing  on 
jis  extremely  fine,  and  resembles  that 
1  the  tomb  of  Jehangir. 
Before  crossing  the  railway,  is  seen  r. 
it  tomb  of  Nut  Jehan,  wife  of  Jehan - 
jr,  a  plain  building  of  one  story,  with 
ior  main  archesr  and  eight  oblong 
penings  in  the  centre,  with  three  rows 
[arches  beyond.  It  is  in  ruins. 
,  18  m.  W.  of  Lahore  is  Shekohpnra, 
be  hunting-seat  of  Dara  Shikoh,  the 
idest  brother  of  Aurangzib. 
I  The  road  crosses  the  bridge  over  the 
tavi,  and  at  about  4  m.  enters  a  dreary 
fiet  of  long  grass  and  jungle.  A 
itidge  over  the  Bagh  Bachcha,  a  branch 
f  the  Ravi,  is  then  passed.  At  Man- 
Hall  R(XELd  Ghauki  there  is  a  good  D.B., 
landing  100  yds.  back  from  the  road 
a  the  rt.,  with  a  pretty  little  garden. 
Sere  horses  are  changed. 

On  the  L  of  the  road  is  a  garden- 
|»Qse,  built  by  Rani  Nakyana,  queen 
rf Ranjit  Sing.     At  the  S.W.  comer  of 


the  garden  is  her  Samadhf  an  octagonal 
building.  The  walls  are  painted  with 
Hindu  mythological  pictures.  That  in 
front  U  of  Krishna  dancing  the  Ras 
mandal  with  the  Gropis.  Over  the  door 
is  a  picture  of  the  ten  Gurus,  with  an 
inscription.  Across  the  road  is  a  very 
clean  and  comfortable  house  which  be- 
longs to  the  Raja,  and  is  lent  by  him 
to  travellera 

The  village  of  Shekohpnra  contains 
a  fine  old  fort. 

There  is  good  shooting  here.  About 
3  m.  from  the  town  is  a  large  tank 
surrounded  by  flights  of  steps  with  a 
three-storied  banduUxri  in  the  centre. 
A  tail  minaret  stands  near  an  entrance 
gateway  N.  of  the  tank. 


ROUTE  13 

Lahore  to  Peshawar  (N.W.  Rly.) 

Lahore  to  Peshawar  is  278  m.  by  the 
North-Western  Railway,  and  the  time 
occupied  in  transit  17  hours. 

5  m.  Shah  Daxa  sta.  The  tomb  of 
the  Emperor  Jehangir,  1 J  m.  off,  is  de- 
scribed on  p.  206. 

42  m.  Qxgranwala  sta.  (R.)  D.B. 
This  is  the  birthplace  of  Ranjit  Singh. 
At  J  m.  beyond  the  station  is  the 
Samobdhof  Maha  Sing,  father  of  the  great 
Ranjit.  It  is  an  octagonal  building,  81 
ft.  high  to  the  top  of  the  gilt  ornament 
on  the  summit  Within  are  the  sculp- 
tured rosettes  or  knobs  which  mark 
where  the  ashes  are  deposited.  The  large 
rosette  surrounded  by  twelve  smaller 
ones,  is  inscribed  Sarkar  Ranjit  Sing. 
That  nearest  the  entrance  is  in  memory 
of  a  blue  pigeon  that  fell  down  into 
the  flames  in  which  Ranjit  and  his  con- 
cubines were  being  consumed.  Other 
rosettes  mark  the  ashes  of  Maha  Sing 
Padshah,  Maharaj  Sher  Sing,  and  Sarkar 
Nan  Nihal  Sing  Ji.  There  is  a  narrow 
but  lofty  pavilion,  covered  with  mytho- 
logical pictures,  among  which  is  one  re- 
presenting Duryodhana  ordering  Drau- 
padi  to  be  stripped.  As  fast  as  the 
clothes  were  pulled  off  her  she  was  super- 
naturally  re-clothed.     At  100  yards  to 


SOS 


ROUTE  la.      LAHOBB  TO  PESHAWAR 


the  B.  is  the  MTilion  of  Maha  Sing,  a 
handaome  bailding,  now  ased  as  the  read- 
ing and  meeting  room  of  the  Anjuman 
of  the  town.  Close  to  the  market-place 
is  the  lumse  when  Bai^it  wai  born. 

N.E.  of  the  town  is  the  BarahdaH^ 
or  pavilion,  of  Ran  jit's  famous  general, 
Hari  Sing.  It  stands  in  40  acres  of 
garden  and  grounds.  To  the  E.  is  a 
pavilion  12  ft.  hich,  full  of  small 
niches  for  lamps.  On  the  £.  wall  is  a 
painting  of  warriors  and  elephants, 
now  almost  gone.  At  70  yds.  to  the 
N.  of  the  hoase  is  the  samadh  of  Hari 
Sing.  A  number  of  trees  have  grown 
through  the  platform  and  are  breaking 
it  up.  At  the  S.  W.  comer  is  a  pavilion 
in  which  countless  green  parrots  have 
their  nests.  The  place  where  the  ashes 
lie  is  marked  by  a  knob  shaped  like  a 
budding  flower.  There  are  no  saii 
knobs.  The  first  picture  on  the  wall 
inside  is  a  portrait  of  Hari  Sing  hawk- 
ing, with  a  string  of  ducks  passing 
over  his  head.  The  district  is  famous 
for  oranges. 

62  m.  Wasirabad  June.  8ta.(R.),  D.B. 
(15,200  iuhab.)  From  here  a  line  runs 
N.£.  to  SicUkot  SLudJvmmooiaee  below). 
This  place,  founded  by  Wazir  Khan  in 
the  reiffu  of  Shah  Jehan,  became,  under 
the  rule  of  Baigit  Singh,  the  head- 
quarters of  Goieral  Avitabile,  who  built 
a  completely  new  town  on  the  plan  of 
a  parallelogram,  and  surrounded  by  a 
wskll.  A  broad  bazaar  runs  from  end 
to  end.  Close  to  the  town  is  one  of 
the  most  famous  gardens  in  the  Panjab, 
laid  out  by  Dewan  Thakur  Das  Chopra. 
At  Wazirabad  is  the  great  Alexandra 
Bridge  over  the  Chenab,  opened  in 
1876  by  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

The  Chenab  is  here  a  most  difficult 
stream  to  deal  with.  The  floods  rise 
11  ft  above  low- water  level,  and  the 
velocity  of  the  current  then  exceeds 
10  m.  an  hour.  The  stream  is  more 
than  50  ft.  deep,  and  drives  the  sand 
in  all  directions  ;  but  the  training  works 
in  connection  with  the  bridge  have 
modified  the  action  of  the  river  and 
confined  it. 

[An  expedition  may  be  made  by 
branch  line  from  Wazirabad  to 

27m.8iiUkotsta.,D.B.  A  town  with 


military  station  1  m.  N.  (inhab 
The  Church  is  a  striking  objec 
a  steeple  150  ft.  high.  Then 
fort.    The  rly.  continues  to 

52  m.  Jmnmoo  sta.,  D.B. 
the  winter  capital  of  the  Jun 
Cashmere  state,  which  exte 
an  area  of  79,783  sq.  m.,  wit 
(1891)  of  2,507,240  person 
Cashmere,  p.  215. 

The  Old  Palaee  at  Jummc 
£.,  close  to  the  city  wall,  hai 
tensions  to  beauty.  It  is  ei 
a  la^  irregular  quadrangle, 
rt  side  of  which  is  a  vast  r 
room.  The  verandah  of  t 
dining-room  overlooks  the  1 
beyond  the  river  are  hills  eor^ 
jungle,  in  which  are  many  wil 

To  the  N.W.  of  the  city  is 
covered  with  plates  of  copper 
little  to  the  £.  of  it  is  the  ne 
which  was  built  for  the  Prince  c 
visit.  Close  by  to  the  E.  if 
parade-ground,  with  the  hos] 
college  to  the  S.E.  The  Gfui 
way  is  that  by  which  the 
entered  from  the  S.  in  coming 
river  Tavi  A  short  distam 
reaching  it  is  the  chief  temp! 
S.  of  this  gate  is  a  fine  gi 
longing  to  the  Maharaja.  1 
Gumit  Gate  there  is  a  descent 
down  a  rough  road  paved  wit 
then  the  path  lies  through  thi< 

The  much  frequented  trade 
Srinagar  and  the  Cashmere  va] 
from  Jummoo  (see  Rte.  13a). 

71m.  GKiJrat  sta.  This  pr< 
is  the  administrative  headqi 
a  district  of  the  same  nan 
town  (18,000  inhab.)  standi 
ancient  site  of  2  earlier  citi 
second,  according  to  General  i 
ham,  was  destroyed  in  1308  A 
centuries  after  this  Sher  Sha 
possession  of  the  country,  ai 
he  or  Akbar  founded  the  fo^sc 
Akbar's  fort  stands  in  the  ( 
the  town.  It  was  first  garri 
Gujars,  and  took  the  name  < 
Akbarabad.  Akbar's  ad  mil 
records  are  still  preserved  in 
lies  of  the  hereaitary  registi 


ROUTE  13.      GUJRAT 


209 


«  GliiikkarB  established  them- 
it  Giijrat,  and  in  1766  the 
q  Hired  the  country.  The  Civil 
,  in  which  la  the  D.B.,  lies  to 
During  the  reign  of  Shah 
jiijr^t  became  the  residence  of 
9  saint^  Pir  Shah  Daalah,  who 

ic  with  numerous  buildings. 
)  a  Church  of  Scotland  Mission 
and  S<ihools^ 

attlfl  -f  eld.  —The  decisive  battle 
it  was  fought  on  the  2l8t  of 
V  1849.  The  village  of  Kalra  is 
of  the  D.  B.  It  was  the  key  of 
1  poHition.  It  is  a  village  of 
^  ID  a  n^t  plain,  where  there 
natuniL  ud  vantages  to  assist 
'  in  maitiuining  its  position, 
the  Sikh^  retreated  round  the 
I^.  aides  of  the  town  of  Gujrat. 
(Uirh'a  earap  on  the  18th  and 
Febrimrj  was  9  m.  to  the  S.  of 
I  ear  t  hc"C  I  lenab  river.  Thence 
need  witli  seven  brigades  of 

and  a  body  of  cavalry  on 
ik, 

dvance  began  at  7  a.m.  The 
went  to  the  front  and  poured 
'.  on  the  Sikh  army,  which  was 
p  a  little  to  the  N.  of  Kalra, 
isted  otnix  brigades  of  infantry, 
l^ons,  and  four  great  bodies  of 
airy,  with  iOOO  Afghan  horse 

th«  English  army  consisted  of 
mcl  nearly  100  guns).  The 
Inglish    gwnB  opened   on  the 

1000  yds.  and  crushed  their 
lataL  As  the  Sikh  fire  ceased, 
LJsh  field  batteries  were  con- 
uahed  forward.  By  11.30  a.m. 
the  Sikh  gaas  had  been  with- 
dismounted,  or  abandoned, 
tish  infantry  then  advanced, 
,  and  carried  the  position, 
day  General  Gilbert,  with 
len,  pursued  the  enemy,  and 
,  Pindi  received  the  submission 
Ltfre  Sikh  army.  Thus  ended 
id  Slkb  war. 

t  cemstcry  at  Shah  JehcmgWy 
ber  a  Fakir  of  that  name,  are 
t>3  of  those  who  fell  in  the 

Beyond   to  the   E.   are  two 

one  of  which  is  rather  remark- 
l-njrat  lA  one  of  the  starting 
r  Cashmere.     (See  Rte.  13a.) 


83  m.  Lala  Husa  junc.  sta.  (R.)  A 
branch  line  runs  W.  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Jhelum  river  to  Kundian  junc. 
on  the  Sind'SaiLgar  Bly.  (Bte.  14).  A 
traveller  having  time  at  his  disposal 
can  from  this  line  visit  the  battle-field 
of  Chilianwala,  the  salt-mines  near 
Find  Dadan  Ehan,  and  the  fountain 
and  temples  at  Katas. 

103  m.  Jhelum  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  is  a 
modem  municipal  town,  and  the  admin- 
istrative headquarters  of  a  district  of 
the  same  name,  but  appears  to  have  been 
built  on  an  ancient  site.  The  Civil 
lines  and  Cantonment  lie  1  m.  E.  and 
W.  of  the  town  respectively.  Many 
ancient  pillars  have  been  dug  up  near 
the  rly.  sta.,  and  amongst  them  one 
with  a  human  face  in  the  Greek  style, 
which  is  now  in  the  Lahore  Museum. 
One  is  to  be  seen  in  the  railway 
engineer's  compound.  Jhelum  is  also  a 
starting  place  for  Cashmere.     Rte.  13a. 

[Rotas  is  11  m.  N.W.  of  Jhelum. 
Carriage-road  to  the  Kahan  river,  8  m., 
and  after  that  cart  track  along  the 
river,  and  below  barren  hills  200  ft. 
high  a  bridle-path.  This  famous  fort 
stands  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  gorge 
of  the  Kahan  river.  Its  walls  extend 
for  3  m.,  in  places  from  30  to  40  ft. 
thick,  and  enclose  about  260  acres.  It 
was  built  by  Sher  Shah  as  a  check  on 
the  Ghakkar  tribes. 

The  fort  is  partly  hidden  by  the 
hills,  stands  high  (130  ft.)  above  the 
ravine,  and  it  is  quite  possible  to  miss 
the  gateway,  which  is  to  the  left  of  the 
river.  The  entrance,  up  a  steep  path,  is 
by  the  Khawas  Khan  Gate,  on  the 
N.E.  of  the  hill.  The  Suhali  Gate 
(where  is  the  D.B.)  is  on  the  S.W., 
and  is  reached  through  the  town,  with 
a  deep  fissure  on  the  It.,  and  on  the  rt. 
an  inner  wall  with  a  lofty  gateway, 
called  after  Shah  Chand  WaH.  Within 
this  stand  the  ruins  of  Man  Sing's 
palace,  built  after  he  reduced  Kabul. 
The  S.W.  corner  consists  of  a  lofty 
barahdari,  in  which  is  a  stone  finely 
carved  with  figures  of  birds,  etc.  The 
S.E.  comer  is  150  ft.  ofi*,  and  consists 
of  a  smaller  barahdari,  about  25  ft. 
high.  The  wall  between  the  two  is 
gone.    There  were  twelve  gates  to  the 


210 


BOUTE  13.       LAHORE  TO  PESHAWAR 


India 


fort,  but  they  ue  now  nearly  all  in 
mins.  The  Shisha  Gate  (an  inner  gate) 
was  so  called  from  the  Harim's  Hall  of 
Mirrois,  which  adjoined  it.] 

167  m.  Lahaai  sta.  (a  flag-station 
only)  is  the  nearest  point  to  Manik- 
yala  Tope,  which  is  2  m.  distant.^ 

[Manikyala  was  first  noticed  by 
Moontstnart  Elphinstone  in  1815,  and 
afterwards  thoroughly  explored  by  Gen. 
Ventora  in  1830.  In  1834  the  stupa 
was  explored  by  Gen.  Court,  and  80 
years  after  by  Gen.  Cunningham.  The 
date  is  uncertain.  There  are  coins 
taken  from  it  of  Kanishka  and  Huyishka, 
which  date  from  the  beginning  of  the 
Christian  era,  but  with  them  was  found 
a  coin  of  Yaso  Yannma,  who  reigned 
not  earlier  than  720  a.d.,  and  many 
silver  Saasano-Arabian  coins  of  the 
same  period.  Cunningham  thinks  that 
the  stupa  may  have  been  originally 
built  byHuvisnka,  who  deposit^  coins 
of  his  own  reign  and  of  his  predecessor 
Kanishka,  and  that  the  stupa  having  be- 
come ruinous  was  rebuilt  in  its  present 
massive  form  by  Yaso-Varmma,  who 
redeposited  the  relic  caskets  with  the 
addition  of  a  gold  coin  of  himself  and 
several  contemporary  coins  of  Arab 
governors. 

The  dome  of  the  stupa  is  an  exact 
hemisphere,  127  ft.  in  diameter.  The 
outer  circle  measures  600  ft.  in  circum- 
ference, and  is  ascended  by  four  flights 
of  steps,  one  in  each  face,  leading  to  a 
procession  path  16  ft.  in  width,  orna- 
mented both  above  and  below  by  a 
range  of  dwarf  pilasters,  representihg 
the  detached  rail  of  the  older  Indian 
monuments. 

Mr.  Fergusson  says  :  **  It  is,  indeed, 
one  of  the  most  marked  characteristics 
'  of  these  Gandhara  topes  that  none  of 
them  possess,  or  ever  seem  to  have 
possessed,  any  trace  of  an  independent 
rail ;  but  all  have  an  ornamental  belt 
of  pilasters,  loined  generally  by  arches 
simulating  the  original  rail.  This  can 
hardly  be  an  early  architectural  form, 
and  leads  to  the  suspicion  that,  in 
spite  of  their  deposits,  their  outward 

1  Cunningham's  Arch.  Rep.  vol.  ii.  p.  152 ; 
Fengnason's  Hiat.  of  Arch  ;  James  Prlnsep'i 
^••mttl,  vol.  ili. 


casing  may  be  very  mnch  more  modem 
than  the  coins  they  contain." 

The  circular  gaUery  which  rtoM 
round  the  great  stupa  is  6  ft  2  bk 
from  the  ground,  and  10  ft  broal 
The  row  of  pilasters  that  eo  round  th 
hemisphere  are  4  ft  high.  Thebuildiii 
is  maae  of  round  rough  stones,  a  fos 
in  diameter,  and  the  mortar  is  of  a 
inferior  kind.  The  whole  was  £um 
with  smooth  stones.  The  opening  a 
tunnel  made  by  Gen.  Yenturaisoatki 
£.  side,  Slicing  the  present  path  to  Mn 
ikyala.  The  stones  were  not  disturbed 
but  the  tunnel  was  dug  under  them. 

At  2  m.  to  the  N.  of  Yentuia's  to^ 
is  Court's  tope.  Here  the  earth  is  « 
a  bright  red  colour,  and  therefa 
Cunningham  identifies  this  stupa  vifl 
that  mentioned  by  Hiouen  Thsang  i 
**the  stupa  of  the  body-offering;' 
while  at  1000  ft  to  the  S.  of  it  is  Hiom 
Thsang's  **  stupa  of  the  blood-ofiS^rini^' 
which  that  pilgrim  ignorantly  attri 
buted  to  its  being  stained  with  ^ 
blood  of  Buddha,  who,  according  to( 
curious  legend,  is  said  to  have  offeiei 
his  body  to  appease  the  hunger  of  sera 
tiger  cubs.  The  stupa  of  the  body 
offering  was  opened  by  Gen.  Cmu^ 
who  found  in  a  stone  niche,  covoei 
by  a  lai^  inscribed  sUb,  three  cylindri 
cal  caskets  of  copper,  silver,  and  gol^ 
each  containing  coins  of  the  samemetd 
four  gold  coins  of  Kanerke  were  foaoi 
in  the  gold  box  ;  in  the  silver  box  wn 
seven  silver  Roman  denarii  of  the  Itfl 
years  of  the  Republic,  the  latest  beini 
M.  Antonius  Triumvir,  and  therefon 
not  earlier  than  48  b.o.  The  eigU 
copper  coins  in  the  copper  box  were  all 
Indo-Scythian,  belon^g  to  T^Anifthid 
and  his  immediate  predecessors.  | 

The  inscription  has  been  deciphered 
and  translated  by  Mr.  Dowson,  whoi 
made  out  the  date  to  be  the  eighteenth. 
year  of  Kanishka,  and  that  it  was  the 
record  of  the  monastery  of  the  Huta- 
Murta,  or  "body  oblation,"  including 
of  course,  the  stupa  in  whioh  the  in* 
scription  was  found. 

Cunningham  ran  trenches  across  the 
mound,  which  now  represents  the  mon- 
astery, and  brought  to  light  the  outer 
walls  and  cells  of  the  monks,  formin); 
a  square  of  ItfO  ft.     In  the  middle  wen 


c 


comriNUATios  os  same  scale 


Clifirdepf'f. 


90UTB  13.      mWAL  FINPI 


%n 


lonis  11  ft  sq.,  which  were 

I  for  statues. 

than  1  m.  due  S.  of 

the  mound  of  Sonala 

ands  on  the  highest  and 

Dus  of  all  the  sandstone 

I  thickly  covered  with  Mo- 

nhs.    This  mound  is  118 

.  broad,  and  13  ft.  high. 

yards  to  the  S.E.   is  a 

e,  called  Pari-ki-deri. 

with    Moslem    tombs, 

gham  found  the  walls  of 

and  in  the  centre  of  the 

drangle  he  found  the  base- 

mple  30  ft.  sq. 

Qce  of  the  stupa  of  Manik- 

'abani  is  2  m.     The  road 

jfew  hundred  yds.  along  the 

Elk  Road,  and  then  turns  N. 

j  ground.] 

f'Bawal  Pindi  Cantonment 
(a  branch  line  runs  W.  to 
rh  on  the  Indus  river,  78  m.), 
This  is  a  modem  municipal 
headquarters  of  a  district, 
largest  military  station  in 
;  has  lately  been  surrounded 
I  of  detached  forts.  The  city 
of  36,000,  the  majority  of 
Mohammedans.  It  re- 
t  name  from  Jhanda  Khan,  a 
\  chief,  who  restored  the  town 
^ur  Baori,  which  had  fallen  to 
ring  an  invasion  of  the  Moguls 
ilth  century.  The  ChurSi  is 
")  yds.  from  the  D.  B.,  and  here 
)  Milman's  tomb.  The  Fort  is 
\  than  If  m.  from  the  D.B. 
t>S.S.£.  The  town  has  nothing 
lnnarkiU>le  in  it.  The  Public 
|i  here  is  a  pork  of  40  acres,  with 
"^^rest,  well  preserved.  General 
gham.  Arm,  Bep.  vol.  ii.  p. 
jnys  that,  in  excavations  near  the 
|ftmong8t  other  interesting  dis- 
was  that  of  an  oil-lamp  of 
shape  with  an  Aryan  inscrip- 
aid  to  be  now  in  the  British 
n,  uid  a  cup  of  mottled  sienna- 
'  steatite.  Several  didrachms 
^postratus  and  Azas  and  a  di- 
of  Apollodorus  have  been 
I  up  on  tne  Old  Parade^grouad. 

Pindi  is  the  starting-plaee 
I  aUl'^tUiim  rf  Mnmt.     in  It 


is  37  m.  by  a  carriage  •  road,  —  a 
journey  of  5  hours.  It  is  the  great 
northern  sanitarium  of  the  Panjab,  and 
the  summer  resort  of  the  General  in 
command  at  Bawal  Pindi.  The  site  was 
selected  in  1850,  and  in  1853  barracks 
for  troops  were  erected.  The  houses 
are  built  on  the  summit  and  sides  of 
an  irregular  ridge,  and  command  maff- 
nificent  views  over  forest -clad  hills 
into  deep  valleys,  studded  with  villages 
and  cultivated  fields,  with  the  snow- 
covered  peaks  oif  Cashmere  in  the  back- 
ground. The  climate  is  well  adapted 
for  Englishmen,  the  lowest  recorded 
temperature  being  21**;  the  highest, 
96". 

The  stationary  pop.  is  only  about 
3000,  but  in  the  height  of  the  season  it 
rises  to  14,000  or  15,000.  The  station 
is  7507  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The 
loftiest  peaks  behind  the  sanitarium 
attain  a  height  of  over  9000  ft.  There 
is  very  little  game  now  to  be  found  in 
the  hills.  Situated  at  convenient  sites 
along  the  ridge  in  the  direction  of 
AbboUtbad  are  several  "Hutted  Camps*' 
for  the  British  troops  in  summer. 

Rawal  Pindi  is  also  the  starting- 
place  for  Cashmere  by  Murree  and  the 
Jhelum  Valley.  This  is  the  best  route 
into  the  country  (see  p.  216).] 

Margala  is  passed  3  m.  before  reach- 
ing the  station  of  Eala  ke  Sarai.  On 
an  eminence  to  the  S.  is  the  monument 
of  General  John  Nicholson  : 

"Erected  by  friends,  British  and 
native,  to  the  memory  of  Brig. -Gen. 
John  Nicholson,  C.B.,  who,  after  tak- 
ing a  hero's  part  in  four  great  wars, 
fell  mortally  wounded,  in  leading  to 
victory  the  main  column  of  assault  at 
the  great  siege  of  Delhi,  and  died  22d 
September  1867,  aged  34." 

194  m.  Kala  ke  Sarai  sta. ,  D.B.  At 
6  m.  from  this  place  is  the  beautifal 
village  of  WtUi, 

203  m.  Hasan  Abdal  sta.,  D.B., 
famous  for  the  so-called  Lalla  Bookh's 
tomb,  which  is  close  by ;  also  on  account 
of  the  spring  of  B<ibi  Wali,  or  as  the 
Sikhs  call  him,  Panja  Sahib.  This  is 
one  of  those  attractive  places  to  which 
€ach  religion  in  succession  has  attached 
its  legends,  and  it  has  been  appropri- 
ated in  turn  by  Bnddhitt,  Brahmaii. 


S18 


BOUTK  13.       LAHOBB  TO  PESHAWAR 


India 


Mohammedan,  and  Sikh.  The  shrine 
of  this  saint  is  on  the  peak  of  a  lofty 
and  precipitous  hill,  at  the  N.W.  foot 
of  which  numeroos  springs  of  limpid 
water  gosh  out  of  the  ground  and  form 
a  rill  which  falls  into  the  Wah  rivulet, 
^  m.  to  the  W.  of  Hasan  Abdal. 

At  the  £.  entrance  into  the  town  on 
the  right  hand,  about  i  m.  from  the 
D.B.,  is  the  tomb  of  one  o/Akbar*8  wives, 
which  the  ignorant  people  sa^  is  that 
of  Nur  Jehan.  The  road  to  it  passes 
through  roughly  paved  streets,  and  then 
leads  down  to  a  clear  rapid  brook, 
crossed  by  stepping-stones,  a  few  yds. 
beyond  a  Sikh  temple,  near  a  beautiful 
pool  of  water,  canopied  with  mulberry 
and  pipul  trees  of  large  size,  and  full 
of  mahsir,  some  of  them  as  big  as  a  20 
lb.  salmon.  Walk  now  250  yds.  along 
the  stream,  past  some  ruins  of  the  time 
of  Jehangir,  and  past  another  pool  to 
the  Tomb,  which  is  very  plain,  and 
stands  in  a  garden  surrounded,  by  a  wall, 
with  four  slim  towers,  one  at  each 
comer :  the  enclosure  is  well  filled  with 
trees,  amongst  which  is  a  cypress  more 
than  60  ft.  high. 

From  Hasan  Abdal  branches  off  one 
of  the  roads  to  Cashmere  (Rte.  18a)  via 
Abbotabad,  D.B.,  a  pretty  hill-station 
(4200  ft.),  and  headquarters  of  the 
Frontier  Force  Command,  famous  for  its 
gardens.  It  is  named  from  Lieut. 
James  Abbot,  who  reduced  the  district 
to  order  in  1846-8. 

232  m.  Attock  Bridge  sta.  (or  At- 
tak),  D.B.,  \\  m.  below  the  town  and 
Fort  Attock  has  seen  the  passage  of 
every  conqueror  who  has  invaded  India 
from  the  N."W.  from  the  time  of  Alex- 
ander the  Great  downwards ;  but  inde- 
pendent of  historical  interest,  the  place 
is  inviting  to  the  traveller  as  being  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  in  India. 

It  is  a  small  town  and  fortress  of 
some  military  importance,  and  head- 
quarters of  a  subdistrict  of  the  same 
name  (pop.  2000).  The  Fort,  situated 
on  a  commanding  height,  overhang- 
ing the  E.  bank  of  the  Indus,  and 
a  Httle  to  the  S.  of  the  point  where  it 
receives  the  Kdbvi  river,  is  very  ex- 
tensive and  has  a  most  imposingappear- 
ance.     It  was  built  by  the  Emperor 


Akbar  in  1683,  who  also  established  the 
ferry  which  it  commands.  Banjit  Sing 
occupied  the  place  in  1813,  and  it  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  Sikhs  till 
the  British  conquest  of  1 849.  It  is  now 
held  by  a  small  European  detachment 
Leave  can  be  obtained  to  walk  round 
the  ramparts :  this  is  well  worth  doing 
on  account  of  the  picturesque  views  to 
be  obtained. 

The  Indus  is  crossed  here  by  a  very 
fine  Iron  BaUway  Girder  Bridge,  whi(i 
was  difficult  to  construct  owing  to  the 
rapidity  of  the  current  and  the  height 
above  the  water.  The  rails  are  on  the 
top  of  the  girders,  and  there  is  a  passage 
for  road -traffic  below.  Each  end  is 
protected  by  a  fortified  gate.  The 
river  has  been  known  to  rise  90  ft  in 
flood  near  the  Fort,  where  the  channel 
becomes  very  narrow. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Fort  and  on  the  S. 
side  of  a  small  ravine,  overlooking  the 
united  river,  at  the  height  of  300  ft, 
is  an  old  sarai,  converted  into  the 
artillery  officers'  mess-room. 

Another  ravine  to  the  S.  divides  the 
sarai  from  the  higher  hill  on  which  is 
the  Fort.  The  general  view  is  certainly 
^ne  of  the  finest  in  India.  To  the  N. 
are  seen  the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the 
Hindu  Eush. 

S.  of  the  Fort  is  a  third  ravine,  which 
separates  it  from  the  village  of  Mullah 
Tolah. 

The  hills  that  line  the  river  near 
Attock  have  round  towers  and  ruined 
forts  dotted  about  them,  and  the  Attock 
Fort  seen  from  them  resembles  some 
old  baronial  castle.  It  crowns  a  rock 
800  ft.  high,  and  descends  a  conside^ 
able  distance  down  its  sides. 

Outside  the  Fort  to  the  W. ,  and  60  yds. 
down,  is  the  tomb  of  a  Diwan  of  the 
saint 'Abdu  '1  Eadir  GilanL  Itstands  in 
a  small  enclosure  on  the  edge  of  a  cM. 

[Persons  wishing  to  undertake  the 
somewhat  rough  journey  down  the  { 
Indus  from  Attock,  vi^  Khushalgarh,  i 
MakJiad,  Ealabagh,  Eafir  Eot,  to  Den 
Ismail  Ehan,  D.B.  (6  days),  should  apply 
some  days  beforehand  to  the  AasiBtant 
Commissioner  at  Attock,  asking  him 
kindly  to  make  arrangements  for 
procuring  a  native  boat  and  crew  for 
the  voyage.    Dera  Ismail  Ehan  ii  10  bl 


lViiiker^£fu4^tls£. 


Attock. 


To /ace  p.  212. 


ROUTE  13.       PESHAWAR 


213 


from  Bhakknr  sta.  on  the  Sind-Sauffar 
Rly.] 

235  m.  Ehairabad  sta.  (R.) 

251  m.  Nowshera  sta.,  D.B.,  is  the 
headquarters  of  a  subdistrict  of  the 
tame  name  in  Peshawar  district,  on  the 
eight  bank  of  the  Kabul  river.  The  can- 
tonment is  on  the  banks  of  the  river. 
/Ibout  2  m.  distant  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
EU>ad  is  a  mined  fort  built  by  the  Sikhs. 

Mardan  (18  m.  from  Nowshera)  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  (U/r^  of  OvMes 
belonging  to  the  Punjab  Frontier  Force. 

267  m.  Pabbi  sta.  [18  m.  from  here 
is  Cherat)  D.B.,  a  hill  cantonment  and 
lanitarium  for  Peshawar,  4500  ft.  above 
tea- level.  It  is  on  the  W.  of  the 
Chatak  range,  which  divides  the  dis- 
ticts  of  Peshawar  and  Eohat.  It  was 
Iret  tried  in  1861,  and  since  then  troops 
iiave  been  annually  moved  up  with  great 
^nefit  to  their  health.  The  temperature 
leldom  exceeds  90°,  even  in  the  hottest 
leason.  A  tonfa  runs  between  Pabbi 
piid  the  foot  of  the  hiUs,  whence  a  bridle- 
path of  about  5  m.  leads  into  Cherat.] 

276  m.  Peshawar  City  sta. 

278  m.  Peshawar  Cantoumentsta.,  Hf. 
p.B.,  Peshawar  (84,000  inhab.,  chiefly 
llohammedans),  an  important  frontier 
tad  garrison  city  of  India,  is  both  inter- 
Mtmg  and  picturesque.  It  stands  upon 
\  plain,  stretching  towards  the  moun- 
Niuis,  on  the  L  bank  of  the  Bara  stream, 
18^  m.  S.E.  of  the  junction  of  the  Swat 
fnd  Kabul  rivers,  and  10^  m.  £.  of  Jam- 
;iid  Fort,  which  guards  the  entrance  of 
be  Khaiber  Pass.     (To  Kabul  190  m.) 

Peshawar  is  the  ancient  capital  of 
lie  Grandara  Province,  and  has  at  all 
liter  periods  been  historically  import- 
bt ;  but  although  dating  back  to  the 
Kh  and  6th  cent.,  it  retains  scarcely 
toy  monuments  of  antiquity.  The 
nodem  city  has  but  slight  architectural 
^tensions.  The  houses  are  built  of 
maU  bricks  or  mud,  held  together  by 
\  wooden  framework,  and  the  streets 
ire  irregular  and  tortuous  ;  the  whole 
^ing  surrounded  by  a  mud  wall  10  ft. 
iiigh.  It  is  not  fortified,  though  sur- 
eounded  by  watch-towers,  which  are 
low  in  ruins  or  have  been  converted 
into  police  posts.  The  Qhor  KhcUri, 
mccessively  a  Buddhist  monastery  and 
Hindu  temple,  is  now  the  Tehsil.     On 


rising  ground  just  outside  the  city,  N., 
is  a  square  fort  of  sun-dried  bricks,  with 
walls  92  ft.  high.  From  it  there  is  a 
veiy  good  view  of  the  Peshawar  Valley 
and  hills.     To  the  W.  is  the  JaU. 

Peshawar  has  a  great  transit  trade 
from  Kabul  and  Bokhara  and  Central 
Asia.  The  Bazaars  are  well  worth  a 
visit,  both  for  the  objects  they  contain 
— many  of  them  not  seen  in  Central 
India — and  for  the  fierce-looking  and 
picturesquely-dressed  natives  who  fre- 
quent them,  from  Afghanistan  and  the 
surrounding  districts,  as  well  as  from 
the  centre  of  Asia.  The  traveller  should 
drive  through  the  town  to  the  Old 
Palace,  whence  there  is  a  lovely  view 
in  the  earl^  morning. 

The  speciality  of  Peshawar  is  bright- 
coloured  scarfs  called  Itmgis.  Wax- 
cloth work  and  some  ornamental  needle- 
work are  also  made  here,  as  well  as 
knives  and  small-arms.  The  cemeteries 
are  very  numerous,  and  quite  surround 
the  city.  The  Grand  Trunk  Road  ap- 
proaches Peshawar  from  the  £.,  when, 
after  passing  the  city  to  the  N.,  it 
meets  the  Circular  Road,  which  goes 
quite  round  the  cantonment.  Just 
where  it  comes  parallel  with  the  city 
is  the  missionary  burial-ground. 

The  Cantonments,  2  m.  W.  of  the 
city,  are  pleasantly  situated  on  a  slope 
looong  towards  the  Khaiber  Pass,  and 
occupyingone  of  the  highest  sites  in  the 
valley.  They  contain  a  Public  Garden, 
and  the  main  roads  are  Hned  with 
avenues  of  trees.  Leaving  the  Fort  and 
taking  the  Circular  Ro»l,  the  Bace^ 
course,  the  iV./.,  Art,,  the  B,S,,  and 
Nat,  G,S.  Lines  are  passed  in  suocession. 

There  are  Anglican  and  B.  Catholic 
Churches,  At  the  ifmioTi  connected 
with  the  Church  Missionary  Society 
there  is  a  school  where  a  large  number 
of  natives  are  educated.  At  the  Mission- 
house  there  is  a  considerable  library  and 
a  good  collection  of  Buddhist  remains, 
They  maintain  also  two  guest-houses 
for  natives  free  of  all  charge.  In  the 
city  is  the  pretty  Mission  church. 

One  of  the  many  victims  of  the 
fanatical  Afghans  was  Lieut.  -  Col. 
Mackeson,  C.B.,  Commissioner  of  Pesha- 
war, murdered  in  1853.  An  obelisk 
30  ft.  high,  in  the  centre  of  the  Mall» 


814 


ROUTS  18.      LAHORS  90  PBBHAWAR 


Iniia 


mark!  the  smt  where  he  is  bmried. 
The  Deputy-CommiBBioner's  honse  is 
the  same  which  Herbert  Edwardes 
occupied  in  1857,  when  he  and  Nichol- 
son and  General  Cotton  decided  on 
disarming  the  native  troops. 

HtrnHngiB  carried  on  throtighout  the 
winter,  when  the  climate  is  often  very 
cold,  and  it  is  necessary  to  be  provided 
with  warm  clothes. 


(1)  The  KhAib«r  (Khybw) 

This  expedition  shoold  not  be 
omitted,  as  no  descHption  can  convey 
a  real  impression  of  the  Pass,  its 
natural  strength,  and  the  wildness  of 
the  sceneiy.  Before  starting,  the 
traveller  must  apply  to  the  Political 
OflScer  in  charge  for  a  permit.  He  can 
arrange  to  be  driven  to  All  Musjid 
(16  m.)  but  must  ride  the  rest  of  the 
way  to  Lwidi  KotcU,  The  Pass  is  open 
only  on  Tuesday  or  Friday  for  the 
benefit  of  caravans,  when  it  is  guarded 
by  the  corps  of  Khaiber  BifleSt  Afridis 
enlisted  for  the  purpose.  Several  -for- 
tified posts,  the  chief  of  which  are 
AH  Musjid  and  Lundl  Eotal  (1700  ft. 
above  sea -level),  are  held  by  them. 
The  Pass  is  quite  safe  to  Europeans 
under  their  escort.  The  traveller  will 
probably  accompany  a  long  convoy  of 
camels,  oxen,  asses,  heavily  laden  with 
well-poised  loads,  climbing  the  defile. 

10 j  m.  by  road,  Jaxnmd,  D.B., 
is  the  first  place  from  which  the 
Ehaiber  Pass  may  be  seen.  The 
carriage-road  to  this  place  runs  due 
W.  from  the  Inf.  lines.  At  night  it 
is  not  safe  to  go  beyond  the  cantonment 
Police  Poet, 

The  Fort  of  Jamrud  was  thoroughly 
repaired  by  Hari  Sing,  and  gallantly 
.  held  by  him  against  the  Afghans  till 
April  1837,  when  he  was  Killed  in 
battle  asainst  troops  sent  by  Doet  Mu- 
hammad. The  fort  has  three  encircling 
walls  of  stone,  and  stands  on  ground 
raised  about  100  ft.  above  the  valley. 

The  Pass  is  a  narrow  winding  defile 
wending  between  clifis  of  shide  and 
limestone  rock  600  to  1000  ft.  high, 
stretching  up  to  more  lofty  mountains 
beyond.  8  m.  from  Jamrud  is  a  village 
en  the  top  of  a  hill  to  the  S.  W.,  called 
iiiKl  there  is  another  at  the 


very  entrance  to  the  Pass,  cdled  CMr 
Arran. 

On  6th  April  1842,  the  Ehaiherees 
had  blocked  the  Pass  with  a  barrier  of 
stones,  mud,  and  bushes,  and  had  beiet 
the  height  on  both  sides  with  marks- 
men. Bat  our  disciplined  sddien 
clambered  round  the  heights  irith 
the  greatest  agility,  took  tiie  enemy  in 
the  rear  from  above,  and  scattered 
them.  It  was  now  time  for  Gen.  Pollock 
to  advance  with  his  main  body  into 
the  Pass — clearing  the  barricade  befon 
them.  It  was  well  that  the  mooE- 
taineers  had  been  driven  off,  for  Pollock 
had  a  long  convoy  of  provisions  ud 
ammunition  for  Sale's  garrison  under 
his  care,  and  nearly  a  whole  day 
consumed  in  reaching  the  Fort  of  AK 
Musjid,  evacuated  by  the  enemy  in  thfl 
morning.  The  heights  beinc^  cro^mtd 
and  heui  by  our  force,  Jellalabad 
relieved  the  next  day;  and  the  dij 
after  they  sallied  forth  and  defeats 
Muhammad  Akbar^s  force,  6000  strong 
burning  his  camp  and  recapturing  1 
standaras  and  4  guns  taken  from  iih< 
English.  During  the  second  Afghai 
War  (1879)  Ali  Musjid  was  the  s( 
of  heroic  fighting  on  both  sides.  Thf 
fort  shows  traces  of  three  historicd 
periods,  Buddhist,  early  Mohash 
medan,  and  British. 

(2)  Bara,  D.B.— A  visit  may  be  pii^ 
to  Bara,  from  which  place  delicioM 
water  has  now  been  brought  to  Pesh» 
war.  There  is  a  mud  fort  at  6  m.  S.  W. 
of  the  cantonment,  close  to  tiie  psii 
from  which  the  water  cornea, 

The  conduit  which  brings  the  watal 
is  made  of  blocks  of  concrete.  At 
intervals  of  i^  m.  there  are  smaQ 
towers  for  ventilation.  There  is  con* 
siderable  cultivation  on  the  road. 
Puflht>i-Khar,  half-way  between  Pesha^ 
war  and  Bara,  is  an  aqueduct  bridga 
In  Bara  Fort  there  is  a  bungalow  for 
the  engineer  officer.  At  800  yds.  to 
the  W.  of  the  fort  is  the  reservoir. 

There  are  other  forts  at  the  months 
of  the  passes,  such  as  Michni,  Shab- 
kadar,  and  Abazai,  but  permission  to 
visit  them  are  necessary. 

(3)  Persons  accnstomed  to  a  hard  day 
in  the  saddle  would  e^joy  a  ride  of  22  m. 
from  Peshawar  through  the  Kohat  Faai 


a\-"^  .^^ 


ROUTB  13  a.       CASHMBBB 


215 


toKohat  (1767  ft.),  D.B.,  near  the  1^. 
bank  of  the  KoTuU  Toi  Hiver,  2  m.  from 
ihe  S.  base  of  the  Afghan  mts.  The 
cantonment  and  civil  station  are  to 
the  E.  and  N.£.  of  the  native  town. 


ROUTE  13a 

Cashmere  (also  spelt  Kashmir) 

General  DescriptioxL — The  valley  of 
Cashmere  is  an  oval  plain,  some  84 
m.  in  length  and  20  to  25  in  breadth, 
at  an  average  height  of  about  6000  ft, 
and  entirely  surrounded  by  the  lofty 
snow-clad  ranges  of  the  Karakoram  ana 
Himalaya.  Up  to  the  end  of  May,  and 
sometimes  by  the  beginning  of  October, 
there  is  a  continuous  ring  of  snows 
around  the  valley  ;  amongst  which  may 
be  mentioned,  N.  of  the  Wular  Lake, 
ITanga  Parbat,  26,620  ft.  ;  £.,  Har- 
amakh,  16,900  ft,  and  Amamath, 
17,320  ft ;  S.,  the  Panjal  range  with 
peaks  of  15,000  ft ;  and  W.,  EaziNag, 
12,125  ft.  These  are  all  visible  from 
the  valley.  Farther  distant,  but  still 
m^  the  territory  of  H.H.  Maharaja 
Sir  Pratab  Sing,  of  Jummu  and  Cash- 
mere, G.O.S.I.,  are  many  peaks  of  over 
20,000  ft,  the  highest  of  which  is 
probably  Mt  Oodwin  Austen,  28,278  ft 
The  Chitral  State  is  feudatory  to  Cash- 
mere ;  its  highest  peak,  Agram,  25,426 
ft,  is  about  200  m.  KW.  of  Srinagar, 
in  the  Hindu  Kush  range. 

The  valley  of  Cashmere  is  watered 
by  the  Jhelum  and  its  tributaries, 
which  find  an  outlet  in  the  narrow 
gorge  at  Baramula,  and  finally  join  the 
Indus  in  the  Punjab.  The  soil  is 
fertile.  Eice  and  maize  are  the  chief 
crops ;  then  come  wheat,  barley,  and 
orchard  or  garden  produce.  The 
saffron  {Crocus  satvtma)  is  famous  for  its 
bonquet,  and  its  cultivation  is  an 
ancient  industry.  The  floating  gardens 
of  the  Dal  lake  are  made  of  long  strips 
of  the  lake  reed,  which  are  moored  at 
the  four  corners  by  poles  driven  into 
the  lake  bed  ;  then  heaps  of  weed  and 
mud  are  formed  into  cones,  and  placed 
on  the  reeds.  Melons,  tomatoes,  and 
cucumbers  grow  upon  these  cones  with 


astonishing  vigour.  The  avngharOf  or 
water  chestnut,  grows  wild  in  the  Wular 
and  Dal  lakes ;  the  kernel,  which  is 
white  and  mealy,  is  either  ground  into 
flour,  or  parched,  and  one  pound  of 
kernel  is  sufficient  for  a  day's  food. 
All  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of  temper- 
ate climes  grow  well  in  the  valley. 
The  mulberry,  bitter  cherry,  plum, 
apple,  pear,  grape,  walnut,  and  pome- 
granate are  indigenous;  the  apricot 
and  peach  have  spread  all  over  the 
v'alley  since  their  introduction.  The 
forest  trees  grow  to  a  groat  size.  The 
principal  among  them  are  the  deodar 
(the  best,  but  not  common),  the  blue 
pine,  spruce,  and  silver  fir.;  the  elm, 
walnut,  poplar,  maple,  willow,  plane 
(or  chenar),  mulberry,  and  horse- 
chestnut 

The  climate  is  delightful  in  the  earlv 
summer.  In  July  and  August,  although 
the  thermometer  does  not  rise  above  80^ 
or  85°,  the  stillness  of  the  air  causes  the 
heat  to  be  oppressive  in  the  valley,  and 
then  the  mosquitoes  make  up  for  their 
comparatively  mild  sting  by  their 
enormous  numbers.  At  this  period 
visitors  are  glad  to  ascend  to  the  upland 
plateaus,  Gulmarg;  Sonamarg,  in  the 
Sind  valley ;  Nagmarg ;  Paugam,  at 
the  head  of  the  Liddar  valley,  and 
Gurais.  The  pleasantest  months  in 
Srinagar,  with  a  latitude  of  34°5  north, 
are  April,  May,  June,  October,  and 
November.  The  spring  months  are 
showery,  July  and  August  are  some- 
times rainy,  and  the  snows  set  in  about 
Christmas  time.  The  cold  in  winter  is 
sometimes  severe.  In  1890-1  the  ther- 
mometer fell  below  zero.  In  January 
and  February  1898  there  was  skating 
all  over  the  Dal  lake. 

One  of  the  latest  writers,  Mr.  Walter 
Lawrence,  says :  "The  valley  contains 
nearly  everything  which  should  make 
life  enjoyable.  There  is  sport  varied 
and  excellent,  there  is  scenery  for  the 
artist  and  layman,  mountains  for  the 
mountaineer,  flowers  for  the  botanist, 
a  vast  field  for  the  geologist,  and 
magnificent  ruins  for  the  archseologist 
The  epicure  will  find  dainty  fruits  and 
vegetables  cheaper  here  than  perhaps 
in  any  part  of  the  world,  while  the 
lounger  can  pass  delightful   days  of 


216 


BOUTB  18a.      cashmere 


Iftdta 


dolcefar  niente  in  the  mat  house-boats 
moored  under  the  shady  chenar  tree." 

The  population  of  the  'valley  is 
814,241,  of  whom  118,960  inhabit  the 
capital,  Srinagar.  The  Mohammedans 
number  757, 000,  and  the  Hindus  62,000. 
The  Hindus  worship  the  likeness  of  Her 
Majesty  the  Queen  Empress.  They 
regard  as  divine  the  sovereign  de  facto, 
but  in  the  case  of  the  Mogul  Aurangzeb 
they  made  an  exception,  and  his  likeness 
was  never  worshipped,  for  he  was  a 
persecutor  of  the  Hindus. 

History. — For  many  centuries  Cash- 
mere was  ruled  by  Hindu  princes,  who 
were  succeeded  by  Tartars.  In  1587 
the  country  was  conquered  by  the  great 
Mogul  Akbar  and  annexed  to  his  Indian 
Empire.  Akbar  built  the  fort  on  Hari 
Parbat  hill.  His  successor,  Jehangir, 
made  many  expeditions  to  Cashmere, 
where  he  planted  chenar  trees,  and 
constructed  lovely  pleasure  -  gardens. 
In  1758  Cashmere  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Durani  Chiefs  from  Cabul,  and 
in  1819  Ranjit  Sing's  general,  Misser 
Chand,  defeated  the  Patau  Governor, 
Jabbar  Khan,  and  annexed  the  country. 
In  1846,  after  the  overthrow  of  the  Sildi 
rule  by  the  British  Government,  Cash- 
mere was  assigned  by  treaty  to  Golab 
Sing. 

Antiqiiitiet.  —  The  chief  ruins  of 
Cashmere  are  those  at  Martand, 
Avantipore,  Pandritan,  and  the  little 
.  temple  at  Payech.  They  exhibit  traces 
of  Greek  innuenoe,  and  are  of  great 
archaeological  interest. 

The  ColnB  of  Cashmere  are  worthy 
of  notice.^ 


There  are  many  Passes  into  Cash- 
mere, mostly  from  the  S.  and  W.  The 
following  are  the  most  frequented  : — 

1.  From  Bawal  Pindi  vid  Murree 
(p.  211),  and  the  Baramula  Pass. 

2.  From  Gujrat  (p.  209)  vid  Bhim- 
ber  and  Pir  Panjal  (see  p.  220). 

8.  From  Jhelum  (p.  209)  vid  Punch 
(see  p*  221). 

4.  From  Hasan  Abdal  vid  Abbota- 
bad  (p.  212)  (see  p.  221). 

1  The  beet  book  on  the  snbject  is  Coins  of 
Kashmir,  by  Mr.  Rogers  of  Amrltsar. 


5.  From  Jummoo  (p.   208)  (see  p. 
221). 

(1)  MuAREE  Route  to  Cashmere. 

Rawalpindi 
By  tonga  to 

I  From  Murree  thereii 
a  short  cut  Oxidle 
path)toEohAki)itf 
Dewal,  18  m.  is- 
stead  of  29  m. 

76  m.  inilai(D.B.) 

85  m.  DomeUD.B.) 

99  m.  OarU  (D.B.) 
108  m.  Hatti. 
lldim.  Ohagpti(D.B.) 
188  m.  nri(D.B.) 
146  m.  Bampor  (D.B.) 
162  m.  Baramula  (D.B.) 
105  m.  Srinagar  (D.B.).! 

The  above  are  easy  stages.  Then 
are  intermediate  halting  places.  Then 
is  a  D.  B.  at  every  stage  (except  Hatti) 
with  a  Khansama  and  European  sap* 
plies. 

The  usual  time  for  the  journey  is  3 
days,  but  it  can  be  accomplished  in  2 
days  from  Murree. 

It  is  advisable  to  spend  a  day  tt 
Rawal  Pindi  in  order  to  make  arrange- 
ments for  the  journey. 

The  road  is  well  metalled  all  the 
way,  thouch  liable  to  interruptions 
from  landslips  in  wet  weather.} 

Fare  for  T<mffa  (8  seats)  122  rs. ,  1  seat 
48  rs.  Mail  tongas  do  not  travel  by 
night.  Ekkou  can  be  procured  for 
servants  or  baggage  for  22  rs.  These 
prices  are  from  Kawal  Pindi  to  Srin- 
agar.» 

If  the  traveller  intends  to  march 
into  Cashmere  by  stages  he  can  engajge 
coolies  at  4  an.  a  stage,  ba^age  ponies 
at  12  an.  a  stage,  and  r^ng  ponies 
with  saddles  at  2  rs.  a  stage. 

The  road  ascends  steadily  from  Bawal 
Pindi  to 

87  m.  Murree  aOc  (see  p.  211)  (7700 
ft.),  and  then  begins  to  descend  until 
the  Jhelum  River  is  reached  at 

1  If  the  traveller  intends  to  go  beyood 
Srinagar,  it  will  be  necessary  for  him  to  get  a 
camp  Kit,  ponies,  etc.  All  this  can  be  arranged  { 
at    Srinagar,  or   by  writing  beforehand  to 
Gockbum's  Agency,  Srinagar. 

2  Travellers  who  observe  cruelty  practised 
upon  the  tonga  horses  are  requested  to  ftr- 
ward  a  written  eomplaint  to  the  Engliib 
Resident  at  Srinagar. 


'M 


Biafa^ 


'~-(s. 


YARKAND 


•  ScaUa 


rlHtp' 


C'/»*'* 


^CAulak. 


^f-' 


;^'^^ 


*?^bMi^ 


\^^ 


\N , 


^''^^ 


&'V**^-^-    Raabk 


JV^jpafc 


r^all 


,^'^] 
^^^ 


'r^ 


^ 


^ 


^*-J 


ROUTE  13a.      HURRBB  BOtTTX  TO  OASHMERB 


217 


27  zn.  Koliala(2000  ft.),  D.B.  good. 
The  bridle  path  by  Dewal  from  Murree  to 
bala  is  11  m.  shorter  than  the  tonga  route.) 

The  road  along  the  Jhelum  valley  is 

t    in  the  summer  months,   so  that 

kvelHng    in   the   early   morning   or 

sniDg  will  be  found  the  most  agree- 

le. 

In   addition  to  the  very  fine  near 

snery  along  this  road,  grand  views 

the  snows  may  be  obtained  in  April 
d  May.  After  crossing  the'  river  by 
large  suspension  bridge,  where  toll  is 
riea,  the  road  ascends  the  left  bank 
L  the  way  to  Baramula.  There  is  a 
cturesque,  small,  D.  B.  at 
11  m.  Dnlai,  D.B.  good.  From  here 
le  road  is  cut  in  the  face  of  the  cliff, 
(d  is  Hable  to  be  blocked  by  landslips 
ter  rain. 

10  m.  Domel,  D.B.  (where  the  route 
t>m  Hasan  Abdal  (4)  falls  in  1.)  Here 
le  road  turns  at  an  acute  angle,  where 
le  Jhelum  is  joined  by  the  Eishen- 
mga.  About  a  mile  N.  is  seen  the 
rwn  of  Mozufferabad,  with  one  or  two 
mples,  and  beyond  it  is  the  Sikh 
fft. 

14  m.  Ctorhi,  D.B.  good.  Late  in  the 
Pternoon  this  march  is  shaded  by  the 
igh  hills. 

9  m.  HattL  The  scenery  is  bolder 
nd  more  beautiful. 

11^  m.  Cbaffoti,  D.B.  There  is  a 
iring  bridge  below  the  bungalow. 
opn  after  leaving  Ohagoti  the  ruins  of 

mosque  are  passed,  the  carving  of 
^lioh  was  copied,  and  a  model  sent 
» London  for  the  Colonial  Exhibition. 

lai  m.  Url,  D.B.  good.  The  Haji 
St  river,  which  falls  into  the  Jhelum 
rom  the  S.,  is  here  crossed.  For  the 
fte  of  the  gradient  the  road  makes  a 
ng  detour. 

13i  m.  Bamirar,  D.B.  From  here 
he  road  is  coniparatively  level.  An 
Dcient  temple,  Bhawanigar,  is  jpassed, 
nd  then  the  fort  and  village  of  Now- 
hera. 

15^  m.  BaraTnula,  D.B.  good.  Here 
)B8hmere  Doongas,  or  house  boats  can 
»  procured  for  the  life  on  the  river. 
Cwo  months  are  often  spent  on  the 
(helum,  varied  by  expeditions  up  the 
dde  valleys  and  to  the  numerous  lakes, 
rhe  larger  doongas  may  be  hired  for 


20  rs.  a  month  ;  the  smaller,  generally 
used  for  kitchen  and  servants,  cost 
16  rs.  a  month.  These  prices  include 
four  boat  people  to  each  boat.  English 
house  boats  cost  30  rs.  to  150  rs.  a 
month,  according  to  accommodation, 
and  whether  furnished  or  not  Some 
of  them  have  every  comfort. 

[On  leaving  Baramula  by  boat  Sopor 
is  passed,  where  fair  mahsir  fishing 
may  be  obtained.  Sopor  is  the  starting 
point  for  the  Lolab  valley,  Nagmarg, 
and  Gulmarg.  When  the  river  is  high 
boats  go  from  Sopor  to  Shadipore  by 
the  Naru  GanaL  If  the  water  is  in- 
sufficient for  the  canal  the  Wolar  Lake 
has  to  be  crossed,  which  should  be  done 
in  the  morning,  as  later  in.  the  day 
dangerous  storms  sometimes  arise.  The 
Wular  Lake  is  the  largest  in  India, 
being  12^  m.  long  by  6  m.  broad.  It 
has  good  fishing.  From  the  Wular 
the  boats  loin  the  river  by  a  small 
canal,  which  leaves  the  river  at  Hajan, 
a  large  village  where  there  is  good 
fishing.  8  m.  up  stream  from  Hajan  is 
Smnbal.  This  is  the  starting  point 
for  the  trip  by  boat  to  the  exauisitely 
beautiful  Manasbal  lake.  Shadipore  is 
6  m.  up  the  river  from  Sumbal,  and 
Srinagar  about  10  m.  farther  by  the 
river.  From  Baramula  to  Srinagar  by 
the  Naru  canal  takes  little  more  than 
one  day  ;  by  the  Wular  lake  two  to 
three  days. 

From  Baramula  the  traveller 
can  go  by  boat  up  the  Pohra  river 
to  Sunawin,  the  next  day  to  Eolan- 
gam,  and  the  8rd  day,  if  the  river 
is  full,  to  Awatkoola  —  very  pretty 
scenery.  Sending  the  boat  back  to 
Sopor,  a  pleasant  march  may  be  made 
through  the  Lolab  valley  as  follows. 
Awatkoola  to  Kofwara  (8  m.);  to  Lai- 
poor  (18  m.),  the  capital  of  the  Lolab 
valley ;  to  Harwan  (18  m.) ;  back  to 
Sopor  (10  m.),  and  then  on  to  Srinagar 
as  above.  The  Lolab  valley  is  very 
pretty,  and  the  marches  easy.  For- 
merly black  bears  were  numerous, 
especially  during  the  mulberry  season, 
but  they  are  not  now  so  common.] 

From  Baramula  the  tonga  reaches 
in  four  hours 

33  m.  SBINAOAR,  a^c  or  the  city  of  the 
Sun  (5250  ft.),  the  capital  of  the  Cash- 


S18 


B.OVTE  13a.      CASHMBRB 


In' 


sera  state.  It  is  beautifully  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  **  Happy  Valley," 
has  a  population  of  119,000,  and  is 
diridea  into  two  parts  by  the  river 
Jhelum,  along  the  banks  of  which  it 
stretches  for  nearly  2  m.  The  river  is 
crossed  by  quaint  wooden  bridges,  its 
banks  are  lined  with  carved  blocks  of 
limestone,  now  unfortunately  much 
de&ced  by  time  and  neglect. 

The  city,  traversed  oy  canals,  was 
built  by  the  Raja  Pravarasene  in 
the  6th  cent.,  and  consists  chiefly  of 
wooden  houses,  some  of  them  several 
stories  high,  surmounted  by  sloping 
roofs  covered  with  earth.  Within 
the  Sher  Oarhif  surrounded  by  massive 
walls,  are  the  City  Fort  and  one  of  the 
Bummer  Bwddences  of  the  Maharaja. 
The  Jumma  Muajid  is  of  considerable 
size,  and  of  interest  as  being  designed 
to  be  constructed  in  wood.  All  the 
pillars  which  support  the  cloisters  of 
the  courtyard  are  of  deodar  pine, 
*' honest  wooden  forms,"  with  the 
remains  of  rich  and  beautiful  carving. 
There  is  another  wooden  mosque  in 
the  city,  the  Shah  Hamadaii,  the  roof 
of  which  is  probably  similar  to  that 
which  covered  the  Temple  of  Martand. 

The  visitor  should  take  a  general 
view  of  the  city  and  its  neighbourhood 
from  the  top  of  the  Takht-i-Snlelmaii 
(Throne  of  Solomon)  (6263  ft,  ue,  &87 
ft.  above  the  city),  where  there  is  a 
fine  stone  Temple  said  to  be  of  great 
antiquity,  but  probably  not  earlier 
than  the  16th  cent.  The  road  to  it  lies 
along  a  famous  Poplar  Avenue,  more 
than  1  m.  in  length,  and  formed  by 
old  and  stately  trees.  He  should  also 
ascend  the  Hari  Parbat,  an  isolated 
city  on  the  N.  outskirts  of  the  city, 
and  260  feet  above  it.  It  is  surrounded 
by  an  extensive  wall,  and  surmounted 
by  the  Fort  built  by  Akbar  at  the  end 
of  the  16th  cent. 

The  Shaik  Bagh  Gh&t  and  Shah 
Haroada,Ti  Musjid  should  be  visited  in 
a  small  boat. 

Good  subjects  for  the  artist  may  be 
found  in  Srinagar,  but  the  smells  in 
the  town  are  often  very  objectionable. 

The  chief  Industries  are  those  of 
the  shawl -makers,  gold,  silver,  and 
copper  smiths,  papier-mach^  makers. 


leather  workersi  and  dettlei«  in  prsciM 
stones. 

EXCURSIOIS^S. 

(1)  The  first  excursion  should  be 
the  Bal  Lake,  which  is  close  to  Srinag| 
and  is  one  of  the  most  beantifol  sp 
in  the  world.  The  lake  is  about  4 
long  and  2^  m.  broad.  Taking  asm 
boat  with  four  or  more  rowers,  1 
traveller  should  proceed  to  the  NId 
Bagh,  a  good  place  for  a  picnic.  Tlui 
on  to  the  BhaUmar  T*i*gfi,  built 
Shah  Jehan,  and  further  decorated  i 
Jehangir,  who  livedthere  in  the  sxunM 
months  with  Nurmahal,  his  favoma 
wife,  introduced  to  us  by  Moora 
his  Idght  of  the  Marem,  On  one  d 
of  the  garden  is  a  heronry.  Th 
crossing  the  lake,  another  rest  mayl 
taken  in  the  Nasim  Bag-h,  a  delijg^ 
ful  spot.  It  is  a  fine  park-like  expani 
closely  planted  with  magnificent  cnea 
trees ;  well  ndsed  above  the  lake 
catches  the  breezes,  whence  its  nal 
is  derived.  Then  back  to  Srinagi 
passing  a  village  with  a  lai^  mosqe 
called  Hasrat  Bal ;  under  the  pi 
tureaque  Hari  Parbat,  and  through  tl 
Nasim  Bagh  Canal  to  the  Dal  Gate. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  mayl 
reached  on  foot.  Starting  from  tli 
Munshi  Bagh  the  road  leads  S.  of  ti 
Takht-i- Suleiman,  to  the  edge  of  111 
lake.  The  wine  fiictoiy  is  to  the  lefl 
A  massive  building,  higa  up  the  mom 
tain-side  farther  on,  ia  the  reri  Mahal 
probably  originally  earected  for  astei 
logical  purposes.  Beyond  are  vin« 
yards,  and  then  higher  up,  the  Chasm 
Shahi,  a  ^rden  of  the  usual  Mogd 
plan.  This  is  8  m.  from  l^e  Munak 
Baffh ;  the  Nishat  Bagh  is  2  m.  farther 
and  Shalimar  2  m.  beyond  that. 

(2)  Martand^  Venuii^  and  the Liddajt 
Valley.  Proceeding  by  boat  up  thi 
river,  passing  8  m.  Fampur,  6  sk, 
further  is  Kcurkapocr,  the  starting 
place  for  the  temple  of  Payech.  In 
excellent  preservation,  this  temple  is 
superior  to  all  others  in  Cashmere  for 
its  beauty  and  elegance.  It  has  bean 
ascribed  by  General  Cunningham  te 
King  Karendraditya,  who  reigned  fiaa 
483  to  4d0  A.D.  In  the  interior  it  a 
liarge  stone  lingafn,. 


ROUTE  13a.       BXGURSrONB 


219 


After  passing  Karkapoor,  the  next 
illage  of  note  is  Ayantipore,  once  a 
iimous  city  and  the  capital  of  "King 
ivanti-yarmma,  who  reigned  868  to 
183  A.D.  He  built  here  two  temples, 
LOW  shapeless  masses  of  ruins,  but 
he  gateways  of  both  are  standing, 
(Dd  the  colonnade  of  the  smaller  one 
las  been  partially  excavated.  About 
10  m.  further  is  Bijhehara,  where  there 
8  fair  fishing  ;  and  a  good  encamping 
^und  above  the  town.  From  here 
t  is  6  m.  to  Kanbal  for  Ifllamabad, 
&e  second  town  in  Cashmere,  with 
3000  inhabitants,  and  originally  the 
»pital  of  the  valley. 

flere  the  boat  is  left,  and  a  start 
made  for  the  Bnins  of  Martand,  which 
ire  4^  m:  N.E.  of  Islamabad,  and 
stand  isolated  on  an  elevated  plateau 
ftbove  the  valley.  The  building  is 
"interesting  as  a  typical  example 
of  a  quasi  -  classical  style,  with  a 
Western  impress  on  its  details  un- 
nsnal  in  the  East."  Its  date  is  uncer- 
tain, and  has  been  variously  ascribed 
to  A.D.  370,  580,  and  750.  It  has 
aoffered  much  from  earthquakes  and 
neglect,  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  so 
iittle  has  been  done  to  preserve  it. 
The  colonnade  was  built  by  the  famous 
Xing  Lalitaditya,  who  reigned  from 
693  to  729  A.D. 

From  Martand  a  path  leads  to  5  m. 
Aichibal,  with  its  beautiful  streams 
and  cascades,  groves  of  magnificent 
ehenar  trees,  and  the  old  pleasure 
garden  of  Jehangir.  There  is  a  bunga- 
low for  visitors,  and  an  excellent 
camping  ground. 

From  Atchibal  a  path  leads  via 
Shdhabad  to  12  m.  Vemag.  Here 
sre  the  celebrated  spring,  the  source 
of  the  River  Jhelum,  which  rises  in  an 
octagonal  tank  in  a  garden  near  the 
foot  of  the  Bunihal  pass.  One  of  the 
recesses  of  the  enclosure  which  sur- 
rounds the  tank  bears  an  inscription 
by  Jehangir.  This  spot  was  a  favourite 
haunt  of  his  empress,  Nurmahal.  The 
tank  is  full  of  sacred  £sh. 

There  is  good  accommodation  in  the 
bungalow  overlooking  the  tank. 

Beturning  to  Martand,  the  traveller 
should  make  for  2  m.  Bawan,  where 
then  sre  celebmted  ehenars,  and  tanks, 


and  excellent  campine  grounds.  From 
here  it  is  12  m.  up  the  liddar  valley 
to  Mshmakam,  where  there  is  an  old 
ziarat  from  which  a  fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  valley.  The  next  march  reaches 
14  m.  Pailgam,  (8500  ft.)  This  is  a 
favourite  summer  resort,  with  good 
camping  ground  under  the  pines. 

From  Pailgam  an  expedition  may  be 
made  farther  up  the  valley  to  12  m. 
Tanin  (10,600  ft.),  whence  it  is  a  stiff" 
climb  to  11  m.  Shdshu  Nag  (18,000  ft), 
a  fine  sheet  of  water  covered  with  ice 
till  the  month  of  June.  From  Shisha 
Nag  it  is  16  m.  to  Amamath  Cave^  but 
the  walk  is  not  easy.  The  cave  is  a 
famous  resort  of  pilgrims. 

(3)  Another  beautiful  expedition  may 
be  made  from  Srinagar  up  the  Bind 
Valley.  The  first  stage  is  either  by 
boat,  or  on  foot,  to  10  m.  OamderhcUy 
a  small  village  at  the  mouth  of  the 
valley.  Ganderbal  is  only  5  m.  by 
road  from  the  Nasim  Bagh  in  the  Dal 
Lake.  From  Ganderbal  the  marches 
up  the  valley  are  to  Kcmgan  (11  m.), 
to  Ooond  (14  m.),  to  Qagwivgavr  (9  m.), 
to  SonaiDAZg  (9  m.)  Sonamarg  (8500 
ft)  contains  lovely  meadows,  and  was 
once  the  chief  sanitarium  of  (Ilashmere. 
Then  to  BaUaX  (9  m.)  9282  ft  at  the 
foot  of  the  Zojila  Pass.  From  Baltal 
one  can  go  over  the  Zojila  (11,300  ft) 
to  Dras,  and  thence  to  Leh,  the  capital 
of  Ladakh  (19  marches  from  Srinagar). 
From  Baltal,  the  cave  of  Amamath 
(see  above)  may  be  reached  in  the 
spring  or  early  summer,  before  the 
snow  bridges  have  melted.  Provisions 
are  not  easily  obtained  in  the  Sind 
Valley  ;  and  there  are  no  bungalows. 

(4)  There  are  several  routes  from 
Srinagar  to  CkUmaig,  sOc  a  very  favourite 
resort  when  the  valley  becomes  hot 

Routes  from  Skinagar  to 

GULMARO. 

1.  By  boat  to  the  Furama  Clumkit  below  the 
city.  Thence  by  road  to  Margam  (IS  m.)  where 
ia  camping  groand  and  a  D.B.,  thence  it  is  12 
m.  to  Gulmarg.  The  whole  distance  may  be 
done  in  one  day. 

2.  By  boat  to  PalhaUam,  then  by  road,  Id  m. 

3.  By  boat  to  Sopor,  then  by  road,  18  m. 

4.  By  boat  to  Baramula,  then  by  road  17  m. 
(There  is  now  a  road  all  the  way  to  Gul- 

mai-g). 

Gulmarg  (or  **  Meadow  of  Roses  ")  is 


220 


BOUTS  13  a.     cashmxre 


India 


a  lovely,  but  somewhat  rainy,  spot  at 
an  elevation  of  8500  ft  on  a  cool  plateau 
amongst  pine  forests.  The  fine  snowy 
peak  of  ^anga  Parbat,  nearly  27,000 
ft,  is  beautitully  seen.  Gulmarg  has 
hunting,  polo,  racing,  cricket,  golf, 
and  other  amusements. 

(2)  PiR  Panjal  Route  to  Cashmere. 

Biding 
or  on  foot. 


Ovjratto 


;2SbSV»L}c««'''8«'p»"j«i- 


28  m.  Bhlmber.D.B. 

48  m.  Saldabad,    D.B.,    crossing    Aditak 
Bange. 

56  m.  NowBhera,  D.B. 

70  m.  Ohangas  Serai,  D.B. 

84  m.  Bajadrl,  D.B. 

98  m.  ThannaMandl,  D.B. )  Crossing  Rut- 
108  m.  Baramgalla,  D.B.      >     ten  Fir. 
114  m.  PosUana. 
128  m. 

142  m.  Shupiyan,  D.B. 
160  m.  Srliiagar. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  routes  into 
Cashmere.  The  traveller  must  either 
ride  or  walk,  as  it  is  impossible  to 
drive. 

28  m.  Bhimber,  D.  B. ,  a  considerable 
town,  situated  near  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
stream  of  that  name,  and  surrounded 
by  wooded  hills.  The  road,  which  is 
fairly  easy  for  20  m.,  crosses  over  the 
Aditak  range  (2000  ft)  to 

15  m.  Saidabad,  D.B.  (provisions), 
where  the  SaTnomi  Serai  is  worth  a 
visit.  The  road  then  crosses  the 
Kaman  Goshi  range  (3000  ft,),  from 
the  top  of  which  the  snows  first  come 
in  sight. 

15  m.  NowBhera,  D.B.,  and  camp- 
ing ground  on  the  Taroi  river,  in  which 
there  is  mahsir  fishing. 

14  m.  ChaogaB  Serai,  D.B.  The 
Tawi  has  to  be  forded  twice  on  the 
way.  The  D.B.  is  built  on  the  rt. 
bank,  about  200  ft.  above  the  river, 
on  an  old  Mogul  SeraL  Here  is  a  very 
fine  view  of  the  snows. 

14  m.  Bajaori,  D.B.  (3094  ft),  a 
day's  march  to  the  E.  of  which  there 
are  two  hot  sulphurous  springs.  The 
D.B.  is  in  an  old  pleasure  garden  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  overlooking 
on  the  rt.  the  picturesque  town. 

14  m.  ThannaMandl,  D.B.,  along 
the  Taioij  which  becomes  very  narrow, 
the  valley  also  contracting  consider- 
ably.    It  is  dtnated  at  the  foot  of  the 


BuUen  Fir  pass,  with  a  good  road 
running  through  it  from  Punch  ta 
Jummoo. 

8  m.  Baramgalla,  D.B.,  crossisg 
the  BiUtm  Fir  (8200  ft.),  easy  ascent, 
very  fine  scenery.  From  this  pont; 
ponies  cannot  be  taken  if  it  is  early  ii 
the  year.  The  cost  of  baggage  cooliv 
from  Baramgalla  to  Shupiyan  is  abosk. 
1-2.4  an.  each. 

6  m.  Poflhiana.  From  this  poiat 
the  road  passes  along  a  deep  valley, 
crossing  the  Sooran  torrent  aeyem 
times  by  log  bridges,  and  ending  wi& 
a  steep  climb.  This  place  is  covenl 
with  snow  till  the  end  of  May,  and. 
consists  of  a  few  shepherds'  huts,  whidi 
are  flat-roofed.  Tents  may  be  pitched 
on  the  roofs,  or  the  huts  may  be  oc- 
cupied, but  they  are  roughly  made  and 
draughty.  Proceeding  up  the  NilcM 
Valley  as  far  as  the  summit  of  the 
Pir  Panjal  (11,400  ft.),  the  traveller 
obtains  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
Wardwan  and  Astor  fange. 

9  m.  Aliabad  Serai.  This  is  notj 
habitable  until  the  summer,  owing  ie| 
the  snow.  It  is  therefore  better  to  go| 
along  the  Lai  Qolam  road  to  IMckit  I 
an  open  meadow  10  m.  farther,  and' 
camp  there.  There  are  huts  of  refuge 
on  either  side  of  the  Pir  in  case  of 
storms. 

19  m.  Shupiyan,  D.B.,  in  the 
C!ashmere  valley,  a  pleasant,  easy  walk, 
passing  Sirywr,  B.H.,  on  the  way. 
There  is  camping  ground  here,  and 
supplies  are  procurable  for  the  first 
time  since  leaving  Baramgalla.  Hence 
it  is  a  couple  of  easy  marches  to  Srina- 
gar.  Or  the  traveller  can  march 
through  Mohuwpoora  to  KamJbaly  D.B., 
for  Islamabad  (p.  219),  and  then  pro- 
ceed by  boat  down  the  Jhelum  river 
to  Srinagar,  about  14  hrs. 

(3)  Jhelum  and  Punch  Route  to 
Cashmebe. 

or  on  foot.        «««»*•*"*  w     ^^  ^^  ^^^ 

IS  m.  Shlkarpur,  D.  B.  89  m.  Sairah. 

26  m.  Tangrot,  T>.^  105  m.  Pimoli,  D.B. 

86  m.  ClLOwmoolL  115  m.  Eahoota,  D.E 

56  m.  Raidanl.  180  m.  Hyderaoad, 

84in.  Nekl.  D.B. 

66  m.  Berarll.  140  m.  Url  (for  end  of 

74  m.  Kotli.  Bte.  see  p.  218). 

This  route  is  long,  the  marches  some- 


ROUTl  14.      LAHOBS  TO  KARACHI 


221 


rhat  difficulty  and  supplies  scarce. 
>wing  to  the  steepness  of  the  road  in 
daces,  the  trayeller  is  recommended  to 
ipike  coolies  rather  than  ponies. 

IS  m.  SmEABFUB,  D.B.  (Route  15). 
rhe  road  is  unmetalled,  but  in  good 
irder  and  level  the  whole  way. 

13  m.  Tangrot,  D.B.  The  road  lies, 
br  the  most  part,  in  the  bed  of  the 
fhelupd,  so  can  only  be  used  when  the 
iver  is  low.  The  fishing  here  is  prob- 
ibly  the  best  in  India. 

10  m.  Chowmook,  crossing  the  Punch 
by  a  ferry.  The  ascent  is  by  a  very 
rough  path  (only  walking  being  pos- 
lible)  to  the  village  of 

10  m.  Baidaui,  prettily  situated  in 
I  valley.  Thence  by  the  worst  march 
in  the  route  to 

12  m.  Neki,  which  is  the  residence 
rf  a  few  cowherds.  Supplies  not  ob- 
tainable. 

8  m.  Berarli,  a  small  village,  where 
there  is  good  spring  water,  and  supplies 
md  ooolies  plentiful. 

8  m.  Kotli,  on  the  1.  bk.  of  the 
Pnncli.  The  camping  ground  is  through 
&e  town,  under  some  trees,  among  a 
lot  of  streams  working  20  flour  mills. 
Supplies,  coolies,  ponies,  etc.,  abun- 
dant 

15  m,  Sairah,  where  black  partridges 
abound.  The  scenery  here  is  very 
pretty. 

16  m.  Punch,  D.B.,  a  largish  town, 
on  the  rt.  bk.  of  the  Sooran,  the  con- 
spicuous features  of  which  are  the 
iaja  Moti  Sin^ 8  palace,  and  the  Fort. 

10  m.  Eahoota,  D.B.,  a  cluster  of 
huts  up  the  Bitarh  valley,  commanding 
I  magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding 
mountains. 

15  m.  Hyderabad,  D.B.,  a  small 
mountain  village,  where  supplies  are 
Tery  scarce. 

10  m.  Uri,  thence  (see  p.  217)  to 
jBaramula  and  Srinagar. 

(4)  Hasan  Abdal  and  Abbotabad 
Route  to  Cashmere. 
12  m.  Dedur,  D.B. 
8  m.  Harlpnr,  D.B. 
22  m.  At)lK>tabad,  D.B. 
16  m.  Hanserah,  D.B. 
18  m.  Oarhl  Hablbulla,  D.B. 
22  m.  Domel,  D.B. 
(for  continuation  via  Uri,  see  p.  217.) 

The  traveller  who  takes  this  route 


must  rely  on  the  mail  agents  at  Hasan 
Abdal  and  Abbotabad  for  supplies  and 
information.  The  stages  to  Abbotabad 
are  generally  done  by  tonga. 

Hasan  Abdal,  D.B.  (Route  13,  p. 
212). 

12  m.  Dedur,  R.H.,  a  roadside  serai 
and  camping  ground. 

20  m.  Haripur,  D.B.,  a  large  and 
flourishing  native  town,  lying  in  a 
richly-cultivated  valley. 

42  m.  Abbotabad,  D.B.  (p.  212). 

58  m.  Manserah,  D.B. 

76  m.  Oarhi  Habibulla,  D.B. 

98  m.  Domel,  D.B.,  thence  to  Garhi, 
Uri,  etc.  (p.  217). 

(6)  JuMMOo  TO  Srinagar. 

This  Is  almost  exclusively  a  trade 
route  and  is  much  frequented.  Travel- 
lers are  not  permitted  to  ^o  this  way 
except  with  special  permission  from 
the  Resident  at  SialkoH. 


ROUTE  14 
Lahore  to  Karachi 
Gknkbal  Notss  on  Bind. 

The  refireshment  rooms  on  the  line  from 
Lahore  to  Karachi  and  Quetta  (Ghaman)  are 
indifferent.  Notice  for  meals  should  be  given 
to  the  guard,  who  wUl  telegraph  orders  free  of 
charge.    The  stationmasters  are  obliging. 

Wherever  there  is  a^y  shooting  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  obtaining  local  ^hikaris  and 
camels,  but  they  should  be  engaged  before- 
hand by  writing.  The  beaters  and  camel  men 
are  all  keen  sportsmen,  but  the  tariff  should 
be  arranged  before  starting.  Camels  cost 
about  fls.1.8  per  day,  beaters  4  annas  to  8 
annas.  In  nearly  all  i>art8  of  Sind  there  is 
good  small-game  shooting— many  varieties  of 
duck,  quail,  snipe,  kuivje,  bustard ;  and  a  good 
shot  should  have  no  difficulty  in  getting  over 
50  brace  a  day.  Loaded  cartridges  can  be 
obtained  in  abundance  at  Karachi  in  the 
Sudar  Bazaar. 

4  m.  Meean  Meer  west  sta.  military 
cantonment. 

26  m.  Baewind  junc.  sta.  (R. )  for 

34  m.  Ferozepore  and  Eajputana  (see 
Rte.  8). 

88  m.  Gambdrsta. 

103  m.  Montgomery  sta.  (R.),  D.B 


282 


BOUTS  14.      IiAHQBB  TO  yAHACHJT 


Ma 


This  pkoe,  created  under  British  rule 
smoe  1855,  is  the  headquarters  of  a 
district  formerly  known  as  Gugaira,- 
situated  in  the  Ban  Doab,  and  stretch- 
ing across  the  Bavi  into  the  £echna 
Doab.  Sikh  rule  began  in  1818,  and 
British  in  1849.  On  the  opening  of  the 
railway  the  headquarters  of  tne  dis- 
trict were  moved  nere  from  Gugaira, 
and  it  received  its  present  name 
from  Sir  R.  MontgDmery,  then  Lieut - 
Governor  of  the  ranjab.  [From  this 
point  may  be  reached  Fak  Pattan,  30 
m.  S.,  near  the  Ghara  or  Sutlej  river, 
is  an  extremely  ancient  place,  first 
known  in  history  as  Ajudha/n,  and 
identified  by  General  Cunningham  with 
one  of  the  towns  belonging  to-  the 
SudrakoB  or  Oxudrakoe  of  Alexander's 
historians.  It  was  important  at  a 
later  date  as  the  chief  terry  over  the 
Ghara.  Now  it  is  best  known  on 
account  of  the  Tomb  of  Farid-u-din, 
a  Mohammedan  saint  of  the  Chisti 
family.  A  great  pilgrimage  of  Moham- 
medans takes  place  here  at  the  time  of 
the  Muharram^  as  many  as  60,000 
attending.] 

116  m.  Harapa  sta.  A  hamlet  now 
of  no  importance,  but  identified  by 
General  Cunningham  with  the  site  of  a 
town  in  the  territory  of  the  Malli  at- 
tacked and  taken  by  Alexander  the 
Great.  The  ruins,  which  are  the  most 
extensive  of  any  along  the  banks  of  the 
Ravi,  lie  to  the  N.  of  the  line  and  close 
to  it.  On  the  N.W.  and  S.  there  is  a 
continuous  line  of  mounds  3500  ft,  in 
length.  On  the  E.  side  there  is  a  gap 
of  800  ft  The  whole  circuit  of  the 
ruins  is  nearly  2^  m. 

About  the  centre  of  the  W.  side  are 
the  remains  of  a  great  Hindu  temple, 
said  to  be  of  the  time  of  Raja  Harpal. 
The  walls  have  been  removed,  and  with 
the  mounds  have  more  than  sufficed 
to  furnish  brick -ballast  for  100  m.  of 
the  Lahore  and  Mooltan  Rly.  A 
little  to  the  E.  is  a  Naugaja  (or  **nine 
yarder")  tomb,  said  to  be  that  of  one 
Nur  Shah.  In  the  plain  below  are 
three  large  stones,  one  with  a  hole  in 
the  middle  104  in.  in  diameter.  They 
are  called  ruil  and  mankaj  and  are  said 
to  be  the  thumb  rings  of  the  giant 
buried  in  the  Kangaja  tomb» 


General  Cunningham  attributes  the 
destruction  of  Harapa  to  Muhammad- 
bin-Kasim  in  713  a.d.  Harapa  has 
yielded  thousands  of  Indo- Scythian 
coins,  but  not  a  single  Greek  one. 

207  m.  Mooltan  {Mvltan)  City  and 

208  m.  Mooltan  Oantomnrat  (B.) 
D.B.  30c  June.  sta.  From  here  theSisd- 
Saugar  Railway  runs  W.  (46  m.  to  GhaA 
Ghat)  for  Dera  Ghazi  Khan  (see  p.  22^), 
and  N.  for  Dera  Ismail  Khan. 

MoMm  city  (D.B.  IJ  m.  N.  of  rly, 
sta.)  is  a  municipal  town,  with  a  pop.  of 
74,600,  of  whom  the  majority  are  Mohwi' 
medans.  It  is  the  capital  of  a  district 
of  the  same  name,  ana  is  4  m.  from  tiit 
left  bank  of  the  Chenab,  and  not  farfrom 
the  old  bed  of  the  Ravi.  It  is  a  place  of 
great  antiquity,  and  supposed  to  be  th« 
capital  of  the  Malli  mentioned  in  Alas* 
anderfs  time.  Cunningham  supporti 
this  ■  view  by  his  discovery  of  a  deposit 
of  ashes  and  burnt  earth  at  a  depth  d 
about  30  to  32  ft.,  which  he  thinks  k 
the  remains  of  a  conflagration  and 
wholesale  massacre  which  took  plaoo 
during  Alexander's  campaign,  owing  to 
the  exasperation  of  his  soldi^s  at  hit 
having  received  a  dangerous  wound  at 
the  capture  of  the  place.  It  is  said  il 
have  been  founded  by  Kashypa,  the 
father  of  Hiranya-Kashipu,  and 
probably  the  Kaspeira  of  Ptolemy. 

The  first  mention  of  Mooltan  by  name 
is  by  Hiouen  Thsang  in  641  a.d. 

Istakhri,  who  wrote  in  950  A. d.,  de- 
scribes the  temple  of  the  idol  of  Mooltan 
as  a  strong  edifice  between  the  bazaan 
of  ivory  dealers  and  the  shops  of  thf 
coppersmiths.  The  idol  was  of  a  humaa 
shape,  with  eyes  of  jewels,  and  thi 
head  covered  with  a  crown  of  gold. 
Shortly  after,  Mooltan  was  taken  by  th* 
Karmatian  chief,  Jelem,  son  of  Shiban, 
who  killed  the  priests  and  broke  the 
idol  in  pieces.  It  was  restored  in  113& 
In  1666  A.D.  Thevenot  describes  the 
temple  of  the  Sun  God  as  still  standings 
and  the  idol  as  clothed  in  red  leather, 
and  having  two  pearls  for  eyes. 

Muhammad  Kasim  conquered  Mool- 
tan for  the  Khalifs,  and  it  was  after- 
wards taken  by  Mahmud  of  Ghazni, 
1005.  Subsequently  it  fanned  part  of 
the  Mogul  Empire.    In  1770  Mutsfftf 


ROUSE  14.      MOOIOAS 


2^ 


JDian,  a  Sadozai  Afghan,  made  himself 
roler,  but  was  killea  with  his  five  soxks 
when  Kanjit's  army  stormed  the  place  in 
1818.  Aurangzib  destroyed  the  temple 
and  statue  of  the  Sun,  and  no  trace  of  it 
was  to  he  found  when  the  Sikhs  took 
Mooltan.  In  revenge  they  turned  the 
tombof  the  Mohammedan  saint,  Shams- 
i-Tabriz,  into  a  hall  for  reading  the 
0r(mth.  In  1829  the  Sikhs  appointed 
Sawan  Mall  goyernor.  He  was  shot  in 
1844,  and  was  succeeded  by  >his  son 
Mulraj.  He  resigned,  and  Mr.  Yans- 
Ignew  and  Lieut.  Anderson  were  sent 
dawn  to  receive  the  surrender  of  his 
^ce.  They  were  murdered  with  his 
connivance,  at  the  Ideah,  and  war 
with  the  British  ensued.  On  the  2d 
«f  January  1849  the  city  was  stormed 
iby  the  army  under  G^ieral  Whish,  and 
once  then  the  whole  district  has  been 
governed  by  the  English. 

The  heat  of  Mooltan  is  notorious,  and 
^e  rainfall  is  little  above  7  in.  The 
iaying  is — 

Dust,  beggars,  and  cemeteries 

Are  Uie  three  specialities  of  Mooltan. 

The  CwnJUmMfnJby  to  the  W.  of  the 
lowD,  was  extended  to  the  S-W.  and 
^outde  more  defensible  in  1888.  The 
Xines  of  the  N.  Cavalry  are  to  the 
lextreme  S.  outside  the  cantonment, 
with  the  Artillery  Lines  to  their  N. ,  and 
leyond  these,  in  the  same  direction, 
^e  the  hospital  and  D.B.,  with  the  R. 

gtholic  cemetery  to  the  N.W.,  and 
3  Mohammedcm  cemetery,  the  Parsi 
netery,  and  the  English  church  in 
ittccession  to  the  K. 

The  first  visit  should  be  to  the  Old 
JPort.  Entering  at  the  W.  or  De  Gate 
(from  Dewal  =  temple,  because  the 
/luoient  Temple  of  the  Sun  stood  here), 
m.  Lis  the  Shrine  of  Buknu-din,  grand- 
ion  of  Bhawal  Hakk,  commonly  known 
isRukn-i-'Alam,  "Pillar  of  the  World." 
This  is  an  octagon  of  red  brick,  bonded 
with  beams  of  Sisu  wood,  and  supported 
by  sloping  towers  at  the  angles.  Over 
this  is  a  smaller  octagon,  leaving  a 
luuTow  passage  all  round  for  the 
muezzin  to  call  the  faithful  to  prayers. 
Above  this  is  a  hemispherical  dome. 

The  total  height  is  100  ft.,  but  it 
stands  on  high  ground)  and  it  can  be 


seen  for  50  m.  all  round.  One  of  the 
towers  was  thrown  down  when  the 
powder  magazine  blew  up  in  December 
1848,  and  was  rebuilt  in  faithful  imita- 
tion of  the  old  one,  including  the  timber 
bonds.  The  whole  outside  is  orna- 
mented with  glazed  tile  patterns  and 
string  courses  and  battlements.  The 
colours  used  are  dark  blue,  azure,  and 
white,  which,  contrasted  with  the  deep 
red  of  the  finely  polished  bricks,  give 
a  most  pleasing  effect.  The  mosaics 
are  not  like  those  of  later  days,  mere 
plain  surfaces,  but  the  patterns  are 
raised  from  ^  an  in.  to  2  in.  above 
the  background.  This  adds  to  the 
effect 

This  tomb  was  built  by  the  Emperor 
Tughlak,  1340-60,  for  himself;  but 
given  by  his  son  Muhammad  Tughlak 
as  a  mausoleum  for  Ruknu-din. 

To  the  N.  there  is  a  small  mosque, 
which  has  been  dismantled,  and  over 
the  dome  of  which  is  a  broken  in- 
scription with  the  names  of  the  four 
first  Khalifs.  The  door  faces  E.,  and 
is  made  of  very  old  Shisham  wood; 
inside  towards  the  W.  is  a  recess 
with  the  Ayat-i-Kursi  carved  in  large 
letters. 

In  an  inner  court  to  the  right  is  an 
Obelisk  about  60  ft.  high,  erected  in 
memory  of  Vans-Agnew  and  Anderson, 
who  were  murdered,  at  the  'Idgah  with 
7  cupolas  I  m.  N.  of  the  Fort,  in  1848. 
On  a  white  tablet  on  the  W.  face  of  the 
pedestal  is  the  inscription  which  tells 
briefly  an  iniportant  chapter  of  the 
history  of  the  ranjab.  The  concluding 
words  are — 

The  annexation  of  the  Paojab  to  the  Empire 

Was  the  result  of  the  War, 

Of  which  their  assassination 

Was  the  commencement. 

The  Tomb  of  Baha-ud-din  Zakha- 
iya,  "The  Ornament  of  the  Faith," 
commonly  called  Bahau  '1  Hakk,  or 
Bhawal  Hakk,  is  as  old  as  the  reign 
of  the  Emperor  Balban  (1264-86),  of 
which  period  there  is  only  one  other 
architectural  specimen.  It  was  almost 
completely  ruined  during  the  siege  of 
1848.  It  was  afterwards  repaired  and 
plastered  over,  but  some  glazed  tiles 
remain  outside.     The  lower  part  it  a 


224 


BOUTB  14.   LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


India 


square ;  above  this  is  an  octagon  half 
the  height  of  the  square,  and  above 
that  a  hemispherical  dome.  The  son 
of  Bhawal  Hakk,  whose  name  was 
Sadru-din,  is  buried  in  the  same 
tomb. 

The  cenotaph  is  adorned  with  bright 
green  tiles.  Opposite,  in  the  comer  of 
the  vestibule,  is  the  tomb  of  Nawab 
Muzaffar  Khan. 

About  J  m.  to  the  N.  of  the  Fort  is 
the  Idgah  in  which  Vans  Agnew  and 
Anderson  were  murdered  in  1848.  It 
has  been  restored  to  the  Mohammedans 
as  a  place  of  worship. 

The  Tomb  of  ShazoB-i-Tabrii  stands 
2  m.  to  the  K  of  the  Fort  on  the  high 
bank  of  the  old  bed  of  the  Bavi.  The 
main  body  of  the  tomb  is  a  square  sur- 
rounded by  a  verandah  with  seven 
openings  in  each  side.  Above  is  an 
octagon  surmounted  by  a  hemispheri- 
cal dome  covered  with  glazed  sky-blue 
tiles.  The  whole  height  is  62  ft.  The 
saint  lived  in  the  time  of  Shah  Jehan. 
To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  small 
square  building,  dignified  with  the 
name  of  the  Imambarah. 

[Excnrsion  to  Dera  Ghasi  Khan.— 
Rly.  ma  12  m.  S?ier  Shah  jjinc. ,  87  m. 
Mahmud  Kot  to  47  m.  Ghazi  Gbat.  sta. 
The  Chenab,  about  1  m.  broad,  is 
crossed  at  Sher  Shah,  on  a  splendid 
bridge  of  17-200  ft.  girders.  Ghazi 
Ghat  sta.  is  on  the  1.  beink  of  the  In- 
dus, which  has  to  be  crossed  to    • 

Dera  Ghazi  Khan,  a  municipal  town, 
and  headquarters  of  a  district  of  the 
same  name,  containing  an  area  of  4877 
sq.  m.  The  city  was  founded  by 
a  Baluch  chief  named  Ghazi  Khan 
Makrani  in  1475  a.d.  The  district 
consists  of  a  narrow  strip  of  land  be- 
tween the  Indus  and  the  Sulaiman 
Mountains.  The  sights  of  the  place 
are  some  large  and  striking  mosques, 
the  chief  of  which  are  those  of  Ghazi 
Khan,  Abdu  1  Jawar,  and  Chuta  Ehan. 
The  civil  and  military  cantonments  are 
"W.  of  the  town,  which  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Church  Medical  Mission 
to  the  Baluchis.] 

Resuming  the  journey  from  Mooltan, 
the  line  reaches. 

218  m.  Bhor  Bhah  junc.  sta.,  D.B.» 


whence  the  Sind-Saugar  Rly.  branches 
oflfW.  andN. 

'  269  m.  Adamwahan  Bridge,  4224  ft 
ToBg,  carries  the  Indus  Valley  Rly. 
acroft  the  Sutlej  river.  The  height  of 
the  roadway  above  the  stream  is  28  ft 

272  m.  Babawalpur  sta.  (jiuic*  for 
Batinda  and  thenoe  for  UmbaUa,  Delhi, 
or  Rewari)  D.B.,  is  a  town  with  about 
20,000  inhabitants,  and  the  capital  of  a 
native  state  under  the  politioal  aireotion 
of  the  government  of  the  Panjab.  Its 
area  is  about  22,000  sq.  m.,  with  a  pop. 
of  nearly  600,000,  of  whom  four-fifths 
are  Mohammedan.  The  language  is  a 
mixture  of  Sindi  and  Paigabi.  The 
J^awab  of  Bahawalpur  ranks  on  the  list 
of  Panjab  chiefs  next  after  Patiala.  His 
ancestors  came  from  Sind,  and  assumed 
independence  after  the  first  expulsion 
of  Sha  Shi\ja  from  Kabul. 

In  1847-48,  Bhawal  Khan,  the  then 
Nawab,  assisted  Sir  Herbert  Edwardes 
during  the  Mooltan  rebellion,  for  which 
he  was  rewarded  with  a  life-pension  of 
a  lakh  of  rs.  and  the  gift  of  the  dis^ 
tricts  of  Sabzalkot  and  Bhaungbara. 
His  son,  S'aadat  Khan,  was  expelled 
by  lus  elder  brother,  and  died  a  refugee 
in  British  territory  in  1862.  In  1863 
and  1865  rebellions  broke  out,  but  were 
crushed  by  the  Nawab,  who  died  soon 
after. 

PaUux  of  the  Ncnoabf  which  is  to  thA, 
E.  of  the  town,  cost  about  £30,001 
It  is  a  square  pile,  with  towers  at  ead 
comer.  In  the  centre  is  a  hall  fo 
holding  receptions.  There  is  a  fountai 
in  front.  At  the  side  are  undergroud 
rooms  where  the  thermometer  remain 
at  70',  while  it  rises  from  100*  to  110 
in  the  upper  rooms.  Ascending  to  th 
roof,  the  visitor  will  have  an  extensivi 
view  E.  towards  the  vast  Desert  of  Bick 
aneer  which  stretches,  waterless,  awa 
for  100  m. 

.  There  is  a  Horse  Farm,  where  ar 
many  fine  animals,  particularly  brood 
mares. 

The  Jail  is  to  the  E.  of  the  town. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Indui 
through  an  uninteresting  tract,  tli 
rly.  reaches 

417  m.  Beti  sta.  (R.)   A  rest-can^ 
for  troops  between  Karaohi  and  Lahi 
has  been  established  het^    '      " 


and  Laholl 


B0T7TE  14.      BETI,  BOHRI 


Aeti  are  the  vast  ruins  of  Vijnot,  a 
chief  city  before  the  Mohammedan  Con- 
quest. A  mouth  of  the  E.  Nara  Canal 
$ee  below)  is  crossed  2  m.  before  reach- 
mg  Rohri,  and  from  Rohri  runs  due  S. 
through  Khairpur,  and  enters  the  Thar 
Parkar  district.  Seen  from  a  distance, 
Rohri  has  a  striking  appearance  ;  the 
houses  being  four  and  five  stories  high, 
with  flat  roofs  surrounded  by  balus- 
trades. 

487  m.  Bofari  sta.  D.B.,  a  muni- 
cipal town  (pop.  9000),  the  capital  of 
a  subdistrict  of  the  same  name,  which 
has  an  area  of  42B8  sq.  m.  It  is  on 
the  left,  or  E.  bank  of  the  Indus,  on 
a  rocky  eminence  of  limestone,  inter- 
spersed with  flints.  It  is  said  to  have 
Men  founded  by  Saiyad  Ruknu-din 
Shah  in  1297  A.D.,  which  was  more 
than  300  years  after  the  Indus  deserted 
its  former  bed  at  Alor  and  came  to 
Rohri.  The  rocky  site  of  Rohri  ends 
on  the  W.  side  in  a  precipice  40  ft. 
high,  rising  from  the  river  bank.  In 
^e  latter  part  of  the  rains  the  i^ater 
rises  16  ft.  above  its  lowest  level. 

The  JurriTna  Mttsfid  is  a  fine  building 
of  red  brick,  with  three  domes,  ana 
coated  with  glazed  porcelain  tiles.  A 
Persian  inscription  records  that  it  was 
hoilt  by  Fath  Khan,  an  oflficer  of  the 
Emperor  Akbar,  about  the  year  1572 
A.D.  One  of  the  sights  of  the  place 
IB  the  Mui  Mubarak,  or  "hair  or  the 
Pr^het, "  in  this  case  a  hair  and  a  half. 
•They  are  set  in  amber  and  preserved  in 
«  gold  tube  adorned  with  rubies.  It 
is  said  that  the  War  Mubarak,  a  build- 
ing 25  ft.  square,  on  the  N.  of  the 
town,  was  erected  about  1545  by  Mir 
Mohammad  for  the  reception  of  these 
hairs.  It  appears  they  were  brought 
from  Constantinople  by  one  Abdu  '1 
Baki,  whose  descendants  have  still  the 
keeping  of  them.  The  *Idgah  was 
erected  in  1593  a.d.,  by  Mir  Muhammad 
M'&Bum.  Near  Rohri  are  three  forests 
eoyering  58,000  acres,  or  about  90  sq. 
m.,  which  were  planted  in  1820  by  the 
Talpur  Amirs,  and  are  now  under  the 
control  of  the  Sind  Forest  Department. 

J  m.  from  Rohri  at  the  mouth  of 
[Indi<ij 


the  Eastern  Nara  Gaiial,  156  ft.  wide, 
are  the  powerful  Sluice  Gates  which 
regulate  the  supply  of  water  from  the 
Indus.  When  these  gates  are  closed 
during  inundations  it  is  a  wonderful 
si^ht  to  see  the  fish  trying  to  pass  them. 
Millions  collect  on  these  occasions,  aud 
in  attempting  to  leap  the  fall?,  fall  back 
into  common  Indian  cots,  maae  of  rope, 
which  are  suspended  from  the  archea  9? 
the  regulator.  The  fishing  is  let  out  by 
yearly  contract  and  yields  a  hand^oi^e 
revenue  to  Government  and  local  fuucU. 

[Excursion  to  Alor. — While  at  Rohri, 
a  visit  may  be  paid  to  the  very  ancie;^- . 
town  of  Alor,  which  is  only  5  m.  distant 
to  the  £.  This  was  the  capital  of  ti^ 
Hindu  Rajahs  of  Sind,  and  was  tak^ep 
from  them  by  the  Mohammedans,  under 
Muhammad  Kasim,  about  711  4.D.  At 
that  time  the  Indus  washed  the  city  of 
Alor,  but  was  diverted  from  it  by  ap 
earthquake  about  962  A.D.,  at  whi(i 
time  the  river  entered  its  present 
channel. 

The  road  from  Rohri  passes  over  a 
bridge  about  600  ft.  long,  which  is  across 
the  ancient  channel  of  the  Indus.  On 
the  farther  side  is  a  village  with  aJboxf^t 
100  inhab.,  and  from  this  an  exten.sive 
ridge  of  ruins  runs  in  a  K.E.  directio]i(. 
That  which  bears  the  name  of  'Alamgiss 
Mosque  is  picturesque.  Two  of  them 
are  shrines,  one  to  Shakarganj  Sh^^ 
and  the  other  to  Kutbu-din  Sba^. 
To  the  former  tomb  people  of  the 
neighbouring  villages  still  make  pil- 
grimages, it  has  no  dome  or  building 
over  it,  but  is  a  plain,  white,  ne9|t 
tombstone,  with  a  border  of  earyed 
flowers.  ] 

Opposite  to  Rohri,  in  the  Indus,  i^ 
the  Islamd  of  Khwajah  Khizr,  Here  is 
a  mosque  of  great  apparent  antiquity. 
It  has  an  inscription,  the  date  952  A.D, 
The  shrine  of  Khizr,  who  was  alsp 
called  Zindah  Pir,  or  "the  liviiji^g 
saint,"  is  venerated  by  Hindus  a^ 
Mohammedans  alike. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  isle  of  Khiw 

is  the  larger  Island  of  BhaJdnu*.    It  is 

a  limestone  rock  of  oval  shape,  800  yds, 

long,  300  yds.  wide,  and  about  25  f1^ 

Q 


S26 


BOCTS  14.   LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


high.  Almost  the  whole  of  it  ii  occnpied 
by  a  fortress,  which  has  two  gateways, 
one  facing  Kohri  on  the  £.,  tho  other 
Sukkar,  on  the  W.  The  Amirs  at- 
tached much  importauce  to  this  fort. 
But  on  our  advance  to  Kabul  in  1838, 
it  was  placed  at  the  disposal  of  our 
Government,  and  was  used  for  some 
time,  first  as  an  arsenal  and  then  until 
1876,  as  a  prison  for  Baluchi  robbers. 
So  early  as  1327  A.D.,  Bhakkur  seems 
to  have  been  a  place  of  note,  for 
the  Emperor  Muhammad  Tughlak  sent 
persons  of  importance  to  command 
there.  Under  tlie  Samma  princes  the 
fort  changed  hands  several  times, 
being  sometimes  under  their  rule  and 
sometimes  under  that  of  Delhi.  Dur- 
ing the  reign  of  Shah  Beg  Argun  the 
fortifications  were  rebuilt,  the  fort  of 
.  Alor  being  destroyed  to  supply  the 
requisite  material.  In  1574  it  was 
delivered  up  to  Keshu  Khan,  an  official 
of  the  Emperor  Akbar.  In  1736  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Ealhoras, 
and  subsequently  into  those  of  the 
Afghans,  who  retained  it  till  it  was 
taken  by  Mir  Rustam  of  Khairpur. 

The  Indus,  which  nins  here  with 
great  rapidity,  is  crossed  by  the  grand 
Lansdoiime  Bridge,  erected  on  the  canti- 
lever principle,  connectiDg  Rohri  with 
the  Island  of  Bhakkur :  tlie  line  then 
crosses  the  island,  and  is  connected 
with  Sukkur  (see  below)  by  another 
bridge  of  a  single  span.  The  span  is 
840  ft.  from  centre  to  centre  of  the  can- 
tilevers ;  each  cantilever  is  320  ft  long, 
and  the  central  girder  connecting  them 
is  200  ft  long.  The  roadway  is  18  ft. 
wide  in  the  clear,  or  enough  for  a  line  of 
carts  in  each  direction.  A  single  line 
of  railway  is  laid  in  the  centre.  The 
cart  traffic  of  course  stops  whilst  trains 
ape  crossing,  A  path  4^  ft.  wide  for 
foot  and  pony  traffic  is  also  provided  on 
etoh  side  outside  the  railway,  and  can 
be  used  at  all  times.  The  total  weight 
of  steel  and  iron  employed  is  within 
8000  tons. 

490  m.  Sukkur  sta.  (R.)  D.B.39e 
The  headquarters  of  the  Sukkur  and 
Shikarpur  subdistrict,  standing  on  the 
rt  bank  of  the  Indus,  hns  a  pop.  of 
13,000,  and  is  well  drained  and  clean. 


The  locomotive  shops  of  the  K.  W.  B 
are  here.  A  series  of  low  limestc 
ridges,  without  a  blade  of  vegetati< 
slope  down  to  the  Indus,  and  on  the 
about  1  ni.  ofT,  is  the  European  quai 
called  New  Sukkur,  to  distinguish 
from  the  old  town  of  the  same  uaj 
The  white  roads  betw^een  the  rid 
create  a  glare  ^  during  the  day-1 
which  is  extremely  nnpleasant. 
1845,  owing  to  a  fatal  epidemic/ 
fever  among  the  garrison,  it 
abandoned  as  a  station  for  Europ 
troops.  There  is  not  much  to 
seen,  except  the  tombs  of  Shah  Eha 
din,  built  about  1758,  and  Muk 
mad  ATasum,  in  the  cantoninenl 
Sukkur  at  the  foot  of  a  tower  90  ft.  1 
which  he  erected,  and  which  overh 
the  country  for  manv  miles.  The  t 
was  ceded  to  the  Enairpur  Amirs, 
tween  1809  and  1824.  In  1833  S^ 
Shuja'a  defeated  the  Talpurs  here  ^ 
great  loss.  In  1842  it  came  u: 
British  rule. 

507  m.  Buk  junc.  sta.  (R.).  I 
here  the  Sind,  Pishin,  and  Quetta  ] 
way  branches  N.  (see  Rte.  15). 

540  m.  Larkana  sta.  ,D.  B.,  is  a  i 
cipal  town  (pop.  11,000),  the  capiti 
a  subdistrict  of  the  same  name, 
country  surrounding  it  is  fertile! 
populous,  and  perhaps  the  finest  tra( 
the  whole  of  Sind.  The  spacious  wi 
well-laid-out  prdens,  and  luxui 
foliage  have  gained  for  it  the  title  c 
Eden  of  Sind.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
portant  grain  marts  in  that  couq 
and  is  famous  for  a  species  of  rioe  ( 
s\igdasi. 

There  is  a  large  local  traffic  in  meta 
cloth,  and  leather.  The  princi^ 
manufactures  are  cloth  of  mixed  si 
and  cotton,  coarse  cotton  cloth,  me 
vessels,  and  leather  gooils.  The  fi 
served  in  the  time  of  the  Talpurs  as 
arsenal,  and  under  British  rule  it  i 
been  turned  into  a  hospital  and  jail. 

There  is  no  edifice  in  Larkana  woi 
notice,  except  the  tomb  of  Sh 
Baharah, 

1  Coloured  or  snn- tinted  glasses  can 
obtained,  and  are  a  great  relief  to  the  ey 
evfii  in  winter,  from  the  glare  ofj  the  sand 
Sind.  j 


ROUTE  14.      8EHWAN 


327 


680m.86hwaiista.  (D.B.  in  the  old 
Fort).  ^  The  chief  town  (pop.  5000), 
117  ft.  above  sea,  of  a  subdistrict  of 
iie  same  name  in  the  Karachi  district. 
Fhe  river  Aral,  which  is  crossed  by  a 
iridge  with  iron  girders,  formerly 
bw^  close  to  the  town,  but  has  now 
mite  deserted  it.  There  are  many  pro- 
Bssional  mendicants,  supported  by  the 
tferings  of  pilgrims  at  the  shrine  of 
Uil  Shakhaz,  The  tomb  of  this  saint 
ii  enclosed  in  a  quadrangular  building, 
idiich  has  a  dome  and  lantem,  and  is 
idomed  with  beautiful  encaustic  tiles, 
Irith  Arabic  inscriptions.  Mirza  Jani, 
vf  the  Tarkan  dynasty,  built  a  still 
kfffger  tomb  to  this  saint,  which  was 
bmpleted  in  1639  a.d.  by  Nawab  Din- 
^r  Khan.  The  gate  and  balustrade  are 
jttd  to  have  been  of  hammered  silver, 
iihe  gift  of  Mir  Karam  *Ali  Talpur,  who 
dao  crowned  the  domes  with  silver 
l^ies.  The  chief  object,  however,  of 
l&tiquarian  interest  in  Sehwan  is  the 
pert  ascribed  to  Alexander  the  Great, 
this  is  an  artificial  mound  in  the  N.  W. 

tt  of  the  town,  said  once  to  have 
n  250  ft  high,  but  now  only  60  ft., 
beasuring  round  the  summit  1500  ft. 
iX  800  ft ,  and  surrounded  by  a  broken 
IraU.  The  remains  of  several  towers 
in  risible,  but  the  fortifications  are 
pidned. 

Sehwan  is  the  centre  of  the  Govem- 
poent  system  of  Canals,  37  in  number, 

K which  the  principal  are  the  JF.  Nara, 
m.  long,  and  over  100  ft  wide  at  its 
toouth ;  the  Ghar,  22  m.  long,  and  80 
It  wide ;  the  NauraTvgy  a  continuation 
irfthe  Ghar,  21  m.  long,  and  90  ft  wide ; 
^e  Birex-ji-Kv/Ty  27  m.  long,  and  48 
ft,  wide;  and  the  Eden  Wah,  23  m. 
long.  The  Indus  here  was  very  deep, 
Ikit  during  the  last  five  years  it  has 
lehaDged  its  course,  and  is  now  nearly 
%  m.  distant  from  the  town  of  Sehwan. 
Half  the  houses  in  this  town  were 
thrown  down  by  a  tremendous  fall  of 
rain  in  the  end  of  July  1839. 

There  is' good  Shooting  to  be  had  in 
the  Sehwan  district ;  hyenas,  wild  hog, 
wolves,  foxes,  jackals,  the  hog-deer,  and 
^Mnkarah,  or  "ravine  antelope," 
are  common,  but  the  tiger  is  unknown. 

[The  Manchhsir  Lakea^c  is  not  very 


far  from  Sehwan  to  the  W.  It  is  formed 
by  the  expansion  of  the  W.  Nara  Canal 
and  the  Aral  river,  covering  an  area 
of  160  sq.  m.  in  the  wet  season, 
but  shrinking  to  about  half  that  size 
at  other  times.  In  the  cold  weather 
the  traveller  might  halt  for  a  couple  of 
days  to  see  the  lake,  where  there  is 
abundance  of  water-fowl  shooting,  and 
excellent  snipe,  quail,  .and  partridge 
shooting  round  the  edge  of  the  lake,  and 
an  extraordinary  number  of  fine  fish. 

The  fish  are  generally  caught  with 
spears  or  nets.  The  boat,  which  is 
flat-bottomed,  is  propelled  by  one  man, 
while  another,  armed  with  three  or 
four  light  cane  spears,  8  ft.  long^  and 
barbed  at  the  tip,  stands  at  the  prow 
watching  the  water;  as  soon  as  he 
sees  a  iish  flash  through  the  weeds, 
with  which  the  lake  is  covered,  he 
hurls  a  handful  of  spears  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  is  sure  to  strike  one  or  two 
fish,  which,  as  the  spear  becomes  en- 
tangled in  the  weeds,  cannot  go  far,  and 
are  followed  and  lifted  into  the  boat 

For  the  other  method  of  catching  tiie 
fish,  an  ingenious  circular  enclosure  of 
nets  supported  by  poles  is  laid  down  in 
the  lake.  A  flotilla  of  small  boats 
containing  men  with  drums  and  other 
noisy  instruments  surrounds  the  en 
closure  at  some  distance  and  graduall]p 
draws  nearer. 

"  The  fish,  frightened  by  the  din,  and 
not  daring  to  escape  through  the  boats, 
press  heavier  and  nearer  to  the  net 
Then  when  the  boats  approach,  huge 
damhhros  are  seen  flinging  themselves 
into  the  air  to  a  height  of  from  8  to  4 
ft. ,  hoping  to  jump  over  the  lower  net, 
but  only  to  strike  against  the  upper 
one  and  fall  into  the  bag  below,  a  self- 
made  prey.  In  the  meantime,  men 
with  spears  hurl  them  at  the  huge 
gandarns^  which  are  unable  to  leap,  and 
lifting  them  high  in  the  air  over  the 
net,  deposit  them  in  the  boats. 
Divers  then  go  inside  the  net,  and 
examine  it  carefully  under  water,  secur- 
ing such  fish  as  may  be  endeavouring 
to  force  a  passage  through  it.  These 
men  in  their  habits  seem  almost  am- 
phibious" (Oaz,  of  Sindh,  p.  710).] 

641  m.  Laki  sta.  (B.),  good  quail, 


SIS 


BOUTS  14.      LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


Iniiii 


dvek,  and  tnipe-ihootiiig  In  tlit  ntigh- 
bonrhood.  The  Indus  Valley  State 
Railway  runs  through  the  Laki  Pass, 
at  an  elevation  of  200  ft.,  the  Indus 
lying  below.  This  range  of  hills  con- 
tains several  hot  springs,  and  shows 
many  signs  of  volcanic  action  ;  various 
kinds  of  sea-shell,  including  the  oyster, 
are  found.  Lead,  antimony,  and  copper 
are  also  found)  though  not  in  great 
quantities. 

716  HL  Kotrl  sta.  (R.).  D.B.,  *  for  Hy- 
derabad across  the  Indus.  The  steamer 
Madock  has  been  converted  into  a  flat, 
and  is  stationed  at  the  Bander  R.  sta. 
as  a  rest-house  for  travellers.  There  is 
a  booking-office  on  board.  There  are 
two  riy.  stas.,  the  Main  Station  (1^  m. 
from  the  town),  whence  there  is  a  short 
branch  to  the  Bander  Station.  This 
place  with  its  hamlets  has  a  pop.  of 
9(KX).  The  river  bank  presents  a  very 
animated  scene.  Sidings  convey  goods 
from  the  railway  to  the  river  by  zigzag 
routes,  so  constructed  as  to  suit  any 
condition  of  the  stream  in  flood  or 
drought.  The  civil  station  and  Euro- 
pean quarter  are  N.  and  W.  of  the 
native  town,  and  are  well  planted  and 
well  kept,  and  contain  the  usual 
Oovemment  buildings. 


[From  Eotri  there  is  a  Government 
steam  ferry  to  Oidu  Bandar  whence 
it  is  a  drive  of  about  3)  m.  along  a  fine 
avenue  of  trees  to  carnages  in  readiness 
for  Hyderabad  (Ist  cl.  about  2  rs.).] 

HTDBIUBAD(Haidarabad),  D.B.,  has 
a  pop.  of  60,000  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  on  a  high  part  of  the  rocky 
ridge  called  the  Ganjah  Hills,  in  an 
island  formed  by  the  Indus  and  the 
Fuleli,  a  branch  which,  leaving  the 
main  stream  12  m.  above  tiie  town, 
rejoins  it  15  m.  below.  The  modem 
dty  of  Hyderabad  was  founded  by 
Ghulam  Shah  Ealhora  in  1768.  His 
tomb  is  at  the  N.  W.  of  the  plateau  on 
which  the  town  stands. 

The  Fort  of  Hyderabad  is  of  a  very 
linear  form,  oorreapondiog  with  the 


natunl  ahape  of  tiie  roek,  on  wlikki 
wall  of  burnt  brick  from  15  te  30 1^ 
high,  thick  at  the  base,  bat  taperiq 
upwards,  has  been  built    It  sapped 
a  quantity  of  earth  which  has  bei 
piled  against  it  inside,  and  is  pieraj 
with  numerous  loopholes.   The' 
at  the  salient  angles  give  the  foi 
an  ap|>earance  of  strength,  but  it 
not  vrithstand  heavy  artillery, 
whole  enceimte  is  about  }  m.  in  drcia 
ference,  and  is  towards  the  S.  off 
plateau  ;  and  at  the  S.  extremity  of 
is  the  huge  round  tower,  erroneoul 
supposed  to  have  been  the  treasoiy 
the  Amirs.     On  the  N.  side  a  tRU 
separates  the  citadel  from  the  town, 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge  leading  to  ose^ 
these  intricate  gateways  which  hafe 
often  yielded  to  a  coup  de  mairu  Era 
where  else  is  level  ground.     Where  t 
walls  do  not  rise  immediately  from  t| 
edge  of  the  declivity,  the  defenw 
strengthened  by  a  ditch  10  ft.  vi 
and  8  ft.  deep.     Within  the  walls 
the  Fort  were  formerly  the  residenoea 
the  principal  Amirs,  with  those  of  tin 
families    and    numerous    dependaid 
The  area,  which  is  considerable,  had 
streets,  its  mosques,  and  public 
ings,  and  was  quite  a  town,  with 
dense    population.      These    buil< 
have  now  almost  disappeared,  and 
Commissary  of  Ordnance  and  the 
ecutive  Engineer  divide  the  Fort 
ween  them  as  an  arsenal  and  sf 
house.     Mir  Nasir  Khan's  palace  alod 
is  kept  up,  and  is  occupied  by  m 
Commissioner  in  Sind,  on  his  annual 
tour,  and  by  other  officers  of  raakij 
when    visiting    Hyderabad.      Sir  Qi 
Napier    frequently    resided    in    thU 

gilace,  and  in  it  he  held  his  Graiil 
arbar  on  24th  and  25th  May  18il^ 
when  every  chief  in  Sind  came  iroiii^ 
far  and  near  to  submit  himself  to  thf 
conqiieror.  Most  of  the  buildings  ia 
the  Fort  were  painted  within  and  witlk 
out  in  fresco.  The  mosques  were  faced 
with  Hala  tiles  of  the  gayest  coloun, 
so  that  the  whole  had  a  most  gorgeooi 
appearance.  Time  and  neglect  hafi 
made  sad  changes ;  but  there  is  one 
room  in  Mir  Nasir  Khan's  paltoi 
styled  the  Painted  Chamber,  wMch  is 
still  tolerably  pedbct^  aad  ff^reA  esaat 


ftOUTB  14.       HTDERABAt) 


ssd 


of  what  the  effect  must  have  been 

ten  all  was  uninjured.      In  the  re- 

▼arions  historical  subjects  con- 

with   the   Talpur   family   are 

tlineated.      In  one  recess  is  a  very 

idifferently- executed    picture   of   an 

[lish  gentleman  and  an  Amir,  the 

of  a  native  artist,  who  obliter- 

one  of  the  least  popular  subjects, 

d  introduced  these  ngures,  one  of 

rhich    is    intended    for   Colonel   (Sir 

Barnes)  Outram.     Round  the  chamber 

a    balcony    commanding    a    fine 

oramic  view,  and  on  the  wooden 

[ustrade  were  two  sockets,  cut  by 

ler  of  Sir  C.  Napier.      A  telescope 

j^ in  one  pointed  to  the  battle-field 

p(  Miani,  and  if  moved  to  the  other 
iibowed  the  place  where  the  victory 
of  Dabo  or  Hyderabad  was  gained. 
Above  the  gateway  of  the  fort  is  a  room 
which  looks  down  on  the  principal 
bazaar.  From  this  room,  in  the  after- 
noon, it  is  worth  while  to  watch  the 
motley  crowds  of  all  nations,  in  various 
costumes,  which  throng  the  mart  below. 
The  visit  to  the  Fort  should  conclude 
with  a  walk  round  the  ramparts  and  an 
ascent  to  the  top  of  the  circular  tower, 
whence  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  with  the  Fuleli,  on  one  side, 
winding  through  the  dusty  plain,  and 
on  the  other  side,  of  the  rapid  Indus, 
with  its  buttress  of  rock  in  the  back- 
ground, will  be  obtained. 

Leaving  the  Fort,  the  traveller  should 
pass  through  the  bazaar  to  the  market- 
place, around  which  new  Hyderabad 
18  fast  rising  up.  As  the  old  town  was 
crowded  and  aifficult  to  improve,  the 
municipality  laid  out  new  streets,  and 
erected  a  market-place,  a  school,  and 
other  public  buildings.  Beyond  the 
JaU  are  the  Tombs  of  the  Kalhoras 
amd  TaZpurs,  which  cover  the  northern 
portion  of  the  hill  on  which  Hydera- 
W  is  built.  The  tombs  of  the  Talpurs 
are  very  beautiful,  but  are  not  in  such 
exquisite  taste  as  that  of  Ohulam  Shah 
KaXhora,  the  description  of  which  may 
serve  for  all.  On  entering  the  enclosure 
by  a  small  but  richly  carved  door,  the 
visitor  is  impressed  by  the  beautiful 
symmetry  of  the  mausoleum,  and  the 
rehgious  feeling  displayed  in  the  decora- 
tioQs.    Latticed  windows  in  the  lofty 


dome  sparingly  admit  the  light,  and 
shed  a  subdued  lustre  over  an  exqui- 
sitely carved  marble  tomb,  at  tho  same 
time  revealing  the  rich  fresco  pointings 
on  the  walls,  without  giving  them  too 
much  prominence.  Tne  walls  had  in 
many  places  cracked,  and  bulge  out ; 
but  Government  has  done  what  ia  pos- 
sible to  arrest  further  decay.  The 
building  is  quadrangular,  with  a  dome 
in  the  centre  resembling  in  miniature 
what  may  be  seen  in  the  Mohammedan 
tombs  of  Bijapur.  Over  one  of  the 
arclyvays  is  an  inscription  in  Persian 
written  by  the  orders  of  bis  aon  Sara- 
farz,  whose  tomb  adjoins,  and  was  built 
in  1785  A.D.  It  is  painted  inside, 
and  is  in  good  repair.  There  are 
four  other  tombs  of  the  Talpur  family — 
that  of  Mir  Wttram  Ali^  a  domed 
rectangular  building,  with  a  turret 
at  each  comer,  buut  in  1812,  with 
marble  fretwork,  and  roofed  with 
coloured  tiles;  that  of  Mira  Murad 
*Ali,  Nur  Muhammad,  Naair  Kban 
and  Shahdad  Khan,  built  in  1847 
with  white  marble  tombs  inside  ;  those 
of  Mir  Ghulam  Shah  and  Fazl  ^Alij 
erected  in  1855 ;  and  that  of  Mir  Mu- 
hammad, built  in  1867.  All  the  Tal- 
pur tombs,  except  Earam  'Ali's,  are 
kept  in  good  order,  at  the  «ost  of  aur^ 
viving  members  of  the  family. 

The  Cantonment  lies  to  the  H.W,  of 
the  town.  There  is  a  fine  range  of 
Barracks  for  Europeans.  Not  far  off, 
overlooking  the  Gidu  Bandar  Road,  ia 
the  Ghurm  of  St  Thomas,  built  in 
1860,  at  a  cost  of  46,000  ra.  It  can 
hold  600  persons.  It  has  several 
memorial  windows,  and  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  communion-table  h  a  brasa 
showing  the  number  of  ofticcra  and 
men  who  fell  at  Miani  and  Dabo 
(1843). 

The  Roman  Catholics  have  had  a 
church  at  Hyderabad  from  the  time 
of  the  conquest. 

In  the  Jail  (for  about  400  prisoner?) 
good  Persian  carpets  and  rugs  are  made 
by  the  convicts,  also  mats  and  a  great 
variety  of  cotton  cloths. 

A  specialite  is  a  kind  of  Phulcari 
with  small  pieces  of  talc  or  glass  sev^  n 
upon  them. 


230 


ROUTB  14.      LABORS  tO  I^RAOHt 


India 


MaanlaotiirM. —Hyderabad,  is  fa- 
mous for  its  embroideries  in  silk  and 
gold  and  its  silver  tissues.  There  are 
4  or  5  famous  fabricants,  each  work- 
ing with  a  different  stitch.  The  pat- 
terns are  of  endless  variety.  All  the 
work  is  made  on  a  simple  wood 
frame,  similar  to  that  formerly  used 
by  ladies  for  worsted  work.  Enamel- 
ling.— In  the  Amirs'  time  there  was  a 
great  demand  for  this  manufacture,  the 
principal  sardars  vying  with  each  other 
in  the  beauty  and  costliness  of  their 
swords,  matchlocks,  and  horse -trap- 
pings, which  were  profusely  decorated 
wil£  enamelled  ornaments.  In  enamel- 
ling on  gold,  the  colours  red  and  crimson 
are  chiefly  used,  and  blue  and  ^reen 
are  the  favourite  colours  T^ith  silver. 
This  trade  is  now  on  the  decline,  as  is 
also  that  of  manufacturing  arms.  Hy- 
derabad was  renowned  for  its  sword- 
blades  and  matchlock  barrels,  but  there 
are  now  only  one  or  two  families  who 
work  in  this  line.  Seal  Engraving  is 
a  business  of  great  importance  in  the 
East,  where  the  Persians  and  the  arti- 
sans of  Delhi  are  celebrated  for  their 
skill  in  this  craft.  At  Hyderabad 
there  are  very  skilful  engravers  who 
work  on  cornelian,  silver,  and  other 
metals,  generally  in  the  Persian  or 
Arabic  character.  A  small  seal,  with 
the  purchaser's  name  in  Persian, 
mounted  on  a  handle  of  enamel-work, 
is  a  good  memento  of  Hyderabad.  Lac- 
quered work  is  admirably  executed 
here. 

If  the  traveller  has  time  he  should 
drive  or  ride  down  the  Bellam  Road, 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  and 
up  by  the  entrenched  camp  to  the 
Bandar  Road  Avenue,  which  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  avenues  in  India. 

The  climate  of  Hyderabad  is  very 
hot,  dry,  and  unhealthy,  but  at  night 
in  the  summer  there  is  a  fairly  cool 
breeze  off  the  river.  The  average  rain- 
fall is  only  6  in.,  while  that  of  Karachi 
is  7  in.,  and  the  climate  is  damp. 

The  traveller  may  wish  to  visit  the 
famous  baUle-fields  of  Miani  wnd  Daho, 
on  which,  in  1843,  was  decided  the  fate 
of  Sind.  The  three  places,  Hyderabad, 
Miani,  and  Babo,  form  a  triangle,  Miani 
being  6  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  Hyderabad 


and  Dabo  4}  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  Miani, 
and  5i  m.  to  the  K  of  Hyderabad. 
The  whole  journey  may  be  xnade  in  %^ 
day,  starting  very  early  in  the  morning^ 
and  using  riding  camels,  for  the  roaa 
is  ver^  bad  to  Miani;  and  to  Dabe 
there  is  no  road,  ' 

At  Miani  a  monument  marks  tbi 
scene  of  this  great  action,  and  on  thf^ 
£.  side  of  the  pillar  are  the  names  of 
the  officers  who  fell,  and  other  informa> 
tion.  The  spot  is  enclosed  in  a  well- 
kept  garden. 

[There  is  a  railway  from  Hyderabad 
to  Shadipalli  for  Umerkote,  the  chief 
town  of  Thur  and  Parkar,  in  which 
district  there  is  excellent  snipe,  quail^ 
and  wild  fowl  shooting,  also  gazelle 
and  antelope.]  Returning  to  Eotri 
Sta.,  the  line  continues  S.W.  to 

768  m.  Jungshahi  sta.  (R.) 

The  best  plan  for  sightseers  is  t» 
take  a  carriage  to  the  Makkalli  Hills, 
and  to  arrange  for  camels  thence  to  go 
the  round  of  Tatteu,  the  Tombs,  JSucUycm 
Kot,  etc.,  and  return  by  the  carriflge 
to  Jungshahi.  (Charge  for  camels, 
R.1.8  each  per  diem.)  The  sculpture 
on  many  of  the  tombs  is  very  elaborate, 
and  many  of  the  mosques  are  veiy 
beautifuL  There  are  several  rest- 
houses  (no  provisions)  in  this  district, 
and  good  small  game  shooting,  also 
para  and  swamp  deer, 

[From  here  Tatta  a^c  (pop.  8000)  can 
best  be  visited — 13  m.  S.  E.  by  a  good 
road.  The  place  is  known  locsdly  as 
Nagar  Thato,  Snipe  and  bustard 
shooting  is  to  be  obtained  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

Tatta  is  situated  4  m.  W.  of  the 
ludus,  on  ground  slightly  raised  on 
the  ruins  of  former  houses.     Fever  is 
very  common,  and  a  dreadfiil  mortality 
took  place  in  1 839  in  the  British  canton- 
ment.   According  to  Macmnrdo,  Tatta 
was  built  in  1522,  and  destroyed  by  | 
one  of  Akbar's  generals  in  1591.    Ham-  '\ 
ilton,  who  visited  it  in  1699,  calls  it  a  ■ 
very  large  and  rich  city,  about  3  m.   | 
long  and  1 J  m.  broad.     He  states  that  ' 
80,000  persons  had  just  before  his  visit  i 
died  of  the  plague,  and  that  it  was  half  ' 
depopulated.  Pottinger  states  that  when   ! 
Nadir  entered  at  the  head  of  his  army   i 
in   1742  there  were  40,000  weavera,    \ 


J 


ROUTE  14.      TATTA 


tat 


OCO    other    artisans,    and    60,000 

lers    in    various    trades.       These 

bers  have  now  dwindled  to  about 

weavers,    100    artisans,    and  600 

lers.     In  1854  a  municipality  was 

iblishcd.    The  present  trade  of  Tatta 

*  ts  mostly   of   silk    and   cotton 

iufactures.     The  hmgis  or  scarfs 

much  admired. 

In  1758  a  factory  was  established 

by  the  E,  I.  Company  and  with- 

'in  1775,  re-established  in  1799, 

again  given  up.    There  is  a  tomb  on 

Mctkkalli  HiUs  (pronounced  Makli) 

Tatta,  not  far  from  the  large  tombs 

the  old  rulers  of  Sind,  erected  over 

remains  of  Edward  Cooke,  who  was 

►bably  connected  with  the  factory. 

affectionate  fidelity  of  the  servant 

io  erected  the  tomb,  but  would  not 

-e  his  own  name,  is  deserving  of 

isting  remembrance. 

The  most  remarkable  sights  at  Tatta 

e  the  Grand  Mosque ;  the  manufac- 

of    silk    lungis    and    stamped 

Dttons;   the  tombs  at  the  MaJckalli 

KK;  Pir  Pattan ;  and  Kalyan  Kot. 

The  Chrand  Mosque,  near  the  centre 

if  the  town,  was  begun  by  Shah  Jehan 

111647  A.  D.  and  finished  by  Aurangzeb. 

k  has  been  a  magnificent  edifice,  but 

18  now  much  decayed.     The  roof  is 

fonnounted  by  100  domes,  each  painted 

in  a  diflferent  way.    The  inscriptions 

^rved  round  the  great  stone  arcn,  and 

those  upon  the  two  stones  bearing  the 

date  of  the  edifice,  are  admirably  exe- 

CDted  in  large  letters.     Not  far  from 

this  is  the  old  house  inhabited  by  Mr. 

Crowe,  the  first   British  Resident  in 

iSind. 

I  The  MaJckalli  Hill  Cemetery  is 
about  IJ  m.  W.  of  the  town.  The 
range  runs  from  W.  to  N. ,  being  8  m. 
long  and  under  1  m.  broad.  The  area 
of  this  vast  cemetery  is  said  to  be  6  sq. 
m.  and  to  contain  1,000,000  graves, 
the  custom  of  Mohammedans  requiring 
thdt  all  tombs  shall  be  single,  and  that 
none  be  re-opened  to  receive  more  than 
one  body.  This  place  becjran  to  be  used 
for  interment  about  1500  a.d.  The 
summit  of  the  rocky  ridge  looking 
towards  Tatta  is  crowned  by  an  im- 
mense *Idgah,  or  place  where  public 
piayers  are  recited  on  the  two  great 


Mohammedan  festivals  called  *Idf  or 
Easter.  The  building  con^siats  of  a 
long  wall,  with  a  low  flight  of  ate  pa 
leading  to  the  mihrab  and  the  inimbar 
(or  pulpit).  Tall  slender  miimrets  of 
elegant  form  spring  from  either  er- 
tremity.  The  date,  1638  a,i>,,  ia  in- 
scribed in  beautiful  large  Nasi'alik 
characters. 

Behind  this  building  vaulted  domes, 
arches  and  towers,  porticoes,  ^atew^mys, 
and  vast  colonnades  rise  in  apparently 
endless  succession  above  shapeless 
mounds  of  ruins.  Many  of  the  build- 
ings must  be  the  result  of  protracted 
years  of  labour.  In  some  the  cuT>ola  ia 
surrounded  by  a  ring  of  smaller  nonieSj 
with  a  single  or  double  colontiade,  en- 
closing a  gallery  and  platform^  broke d 
by  pointed  arches  in  each  of  the  four 
fronts.  Others  are  girt  by  lofty  atone 
walls,  forming  square  courtyaixlSj  ^^ith 
entrance  gates  leading  to  iha  different 
doorways.  Some  consist  of  heavy 
marble  canopies,  on  fantastic  <^oliimna. 
Many  are  built  of  coloured  arid  glared 
tiles  and  bricks,  the  work  y>robal>ly  of 
Persian  bricklayers,  who  arc  renowned 
for  their  skill.  So  skilfully  Eind  care- 
fully made  are  these  bricks,  tliat  each 
rings  like  metal,  and  breaks  aa  clear 
as  glass.  Nothing  can  be  richer  than 
the  appearance  of  the  inscriptions  on 
the  bricks,  in  large  white  letters,  upon 
a  dark  purple  ground. 

Kalyan  Kot,  "Fort  Prosperous," — 
not  as  Sir  A.  Burnes  and  Lieut.  Wood 
write  it,  Kalan  Kot^  "Great  Fort/* — is 
called  by  the  Mohammedans  Tughlaka- 
bad.  It  is  a  ruin,  somewhat  less  than 
2  m.  S.  of  Tatta,  and  accordinj^  to  some 
it  was  erected  by  Alexander  the  Great. 
However  that  may  be,  its  antiquity 
cannot  be  doubted.  The  name  ia  San- 
scrit, and  from  its  plan  it  may  be  fairly 
inferred  that  it  was  built  before  the  use 
of  cannon.] 

787  m.  Dabheji  sta.  k  the  place 
from  which  Bambura  may  be  visited  ; 
it  is  6  m.  distant. 

[Bambura  is  supposed  by  the  nativea 
to  be  the  site  of  the  most  ancient  sea- 
port in  Sind.  It  may  have  been  the 
ancient  Debal,  the  first  city  cajitured  by 
Muhammad  Easim,  having  its  name 


2dd 


AOUTE  14.   LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


from  a  temple  in  the  fort  of  great 
celebrity.  It  is  unqueetionably  of 
greftt  antiquily,  and  the  remains  of 
wmparts,  bastions,  towers,  etc.,  prove 
its  lormer  importance.  Many  coins 
alio  hare  at  different  times  been  found 
among  its  rains.  The  town  of  Gharo 
is  about  3  m.  to  the  £.] 


819  m.  Karachi  {Kurrachee)  Can- 
tonment (or  Txm  Street)  sta.4e  — 
The  H'Leod  or  City  sta.  is  2  m.  farther 
en  towards  the  harbour. 

Karachi,  lat.  24'  47',  long,  eff"  66'  E. 
pop.  104, 000,  distance  from  London  6283 
m.,  is  the  chief  town  in  Sind.  It  is 
situated  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the 
delta  of  the  Indus,  and  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Commissioner,  the 
Judicial  Commissioner,  and  Brig^ier- 
General.  Karachi  existed  as  a  mere 
fort  from  1726  to  1842,  when  it 
was  yielded  up  by  the  Talpur  Amirs 
to  the  British  Government.  Then  it 
began  to  rise  rapidly  as  a  flourishing 
sea -port  with  a  trade  whose  annual 
value  now  exceeds  £4,000,000.  N.  of 
the  sta.  are  the  Napier  BaxrackB,  a  fine 
block  of  buildings  extending  over  the 
maidan  for  1  m.,  with  accommodation 
flw  1500  European  troops.  W.  of  the 
Lines  are  the  B.  C.  Church  and  General 
HoBpttal.  In  front  of  this  line,  i  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.,  is  the  Frere  Hall 
(built  in  1865  in  honour  of  Sir  Bartle 
Frere).  The  building  contains  a  large 
ballroom,  a  public  meeting-room,  and 
the  Karachi  General  Library.  In 
front  of  the  Hall  is  the  bandstand, 
where  the  European  regimental  band 
plays  on  Saturday  eyenings  between 
6  and  8.  Adjoining  the  Frere  Hall 
compound  are  the  handsome  build- 
ings and  gardens  belonging  to  the 
members  of  the  Siiid  Club.  Passing 
beyond  it  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  and 
in*  front  of  it,  on  the  road  leading  to 
the  sea,  is  the  Gymkhana  and  Ladies' 
Club,  standing  in  a  well-kept  garden. 
To  the  W.  and  in  a  line  with  the  Gym- 
khana is  the  compound  of 

Oovermnent  House,  built  by  Sir  C. 
Napier,  bought  from  him  by  Govern- 
ment, and  now  the  residence  of  the 
Commissioner  in  Sind.  Behind  it  is 
Trinity  CIrareh  (the  garrison  church), 


with  its  square  campanile,  150 1 
It  was  built  at  the  inst^Hatio' 
Bartle  Frere,  and  contains  a  fin( 
glass  window  put  up  in  bono 
C.  Napier  and  the  victors  ol 
Beyond,  W.,  are  the  Artille^ 
house.  Barracks,  and  ATtMnal| 
few  yds.  farther  is  8t.  And 
Church. 

Here  is  the  heart  of  the  1 
Bazaar,   with    its   Post    oa«| 
Telegraph  OfBLce ;  near  this  is  1 
Arts  College,  containing  the  I' 
the  Bums  Gardens,  and  the 
Market,— a  very  fine  build" 
high  clock  tower.     Near  the  i 
the  Ednljei  Duishaw 
building  of  graceful  proportionij 
W.  of  the  market  are  the  Gk 
Gardens,  where  the  Native  i 
band  plays.     The  Zoological  J 
tion  in  the  gardens  is  considei' 
best  in  India,   and  is  well  t^ 
visit.     The  road  S.  from  the  (^ 
by  the  banks  of  the  Layari  riyei 
to  the  C.  M.  S.  Mission  Chu 
School.     This  is  the  commen| 
of  the  Native  town.    Past  the  ] 
Church,  on  the  rt.,  are  the  CiT 
pital,  the  Government  High  ! 
Native  General  Library,  Small  I 
Court,  and  Max  Dense  Hall,    d 
S.   is  the   melancholy  -  looking! 
flanked  by  its  four  Sind  mud 
towers.     Good  carpets,    etc., 
purchased    here  at    very   rea 
prices.     Near  at  hand  are  the  i 
the  far-famed  Sind  silversmiths. 

From  Government  House  the  Ml 
Road  to  the  sea  leads  to  a  fine! 
of  buildings  containing  the  quartf 
the  European  and  Persian  Gulf  J 
graph  Staff,  the  General  Post  < 
and  the  Muxiicipal  OfBLces.    On  ' 
of  the  road  is  the  Karachi 
Sta.    The  late  rapid  extension  ( 
wajs  has  made  Karachi  the  gate 
Central  Asia, — a  fact  foretold  mon 
60  years  ago  by  that  far-seeing  i 
man  Sir  C.  Napier.    Within  easyl 
of  the  City  sta.  are  the  Court  Hflj 
containing  the  Judicial  Coramissifll 
District  Judges,  and  Town  Ma 
ofiices,  the  Bolton  Market,  tl 
ber  of  Commerce,  the  Custom  1 
and  the  oflices  and  godowns  of  the  1 


ROUTE  14.       KARACHI 


233 


rcfaants,   Banks,  and  Steam- 


g  the  Customs  2  m.  along  the 
lole  ifiKiamari  (4  m.  from  the 
dnt.  Garriages,  the  host  in 
ire  2  Rs.  Travellers  should 
.1  to  take  first-class  carriages), 
shipping  port,  with  its  long 
vvharves,  and  connected  with 
onment  and  native  town  hy 
Ti,  road,  telegraph,  and  tele- 
In  the  old  days  this  was  an 

At  Eiamari  the  Karachi 
*  commences.  It  is  a  first- 
hour,  capable  of  accommodat- 
argest  steamers,  and  owes  its 
3  to  the  strenuous  exertions  of 
le  Frere.  It  was  designed  by 
ker,  commenced  in  1854,  and 
;d  in  1888.  There  is  very  good 
ig  to  be  had  in  the  harbour, 
ood  supply  of  boats.  Karachi 
for  its  fish  and  oysters.  Near 
)ier  Mole,  on  the  backwater, 
Sind  Boat  Club  House.  The 
9  of  the  harbour  consist,  beside 
"ine  defences,  of  three  large 
it  the  Manora  headland,  the 

to  the  harbour  on  the  W., 
»t  of  the  three  forts  is  situated, 
c  seaport  of  the  Punjab  is  a 
186  showing  a  fixed  light  120  ft. 
a-level,  visible  17  m.  in  clear 

On  the  meridian  of  Karachi 
no  land  between  Manora  and 
;h  Pole. 

eamship  companies  see  Index, 
st  economical  route  for  pas- 
and  goods  to  Quetta,  Mooltan, 
and  the  North- West  Provinces 
is  vid  Karachi. 

f  Supply.  —  The  water  in 
is  perfectly  pure,  being  col- 
n  underground  reservoirs,  in 
ng  ground  16  m.  N.E.  of 
,  and  conveyed  in  pipes.  The 
•al  Secretary  would  afford  every 
tion  and  permission  to  see  the 
nd  Reservoirs. 

little  rain  falls  at  Karachi,  the 
for  the  year  being  about  7  in. 
.owcnr  months  are  July  and 
,  ana  there  are  one  or  two 
iowers  about  Christmas.    The 


end  of  May  and  part  of  June  and  first 
fortnight  in  October  are  hot ;  Nov., 
Dec. ,  Jan.,  and  Feb.  and  March  delight- 
fully cold  and  dry  ;  remaining  months 
damp  with  constant  cool  sea  breeze. 

Clifton,  3  m.  S.  of  the  cantonment, 
a  favourite  afternoon  ride  and  drive, 
stands  on  the  sea,  and  is  approached  by 
a  good  road.  There  is  a  fine  sandy 
beach  here  extending  S.E.  for  miles— 
on  this  beach  thousands  of  turtles  in 
August,  Sept,  and  Oct.  come  up  at 
night  to  lay  their  eggs ;  and  the  turtle- 
turning  picnic  parties  arranged  for 
moonlight  nights  are  among  the  stand- 
ing amusements  of  the  place.  During 
the  cold  weather  the  tanks  and  jeels 
about  Karachi  swarm  with  small  game 
birds,  while  in  the  Belnch  Mountains, 
25  m.  W.  of  Manora,  good  ibex  shoot- 
ing is  obtainable.  In  the  Hub  river,  ♦ 
the  boundary  between  India  and  Beiu- 
chistan  (20  m.  from  Karachi)  good 
mahsir  fishing  can  be  had. 

[Magar  Pir,  7  m.  N.  of  Karachi,  is 
well  worth  a  visit.  For  a  detailed 
account  of  this  curious  place  see  Dry 
Leaves  from  Young  Egypt^^  p.  218,  and 
Burton's  Sindf  vol.  i.  p.  48.  As  the 
place  can  be  comfortaDly  seen  in  an 
afternoon  from  Karachi,  there  is  no 
necessity  to  stop  there,  the  dharmsala, 
or  rest-house,  not  being  comfortable  for 
Europeans  to  stay  at.  The  road  out 
in  parts  being  very  sandy,  an  extra 
horse  is  attached  to  the  carriage ;  the 
charge  for  the  trip  being  generally 
12  rs. 

From  the  roots  of  a  clump  of  date 
trees  gushes  out  a  stream  of  hot  water, 
the  temperature  of  which  is  183*. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  is  a 
temple  surrounded  by  a  thick  grove, 
and  close  to  a  swamp  caused  by  the 
superfluous  waters  of  the  spring. 
There  is  also  a  tank  surrounded  by  a 
5  ft.  mud  wall,  and  containing  some  80 
or  90  alligators,  which,  as  they  attract 
a  considerable  number  of  visitors,  the 
Mohammedans  in  charge  of  the  Pirs 
Tomb  regard  as  sacred,  for  a  brisk  and 
remunerative  business  is  done  by  these 
custodians  in  killing  goats  for  visitors 
1  See  the  Library  in  the  Frerc  Hall. 


234 


ROUTB  16.       ttUK  JtJNCTtON  tO  QtETTA,  ETC. 


/lutltt 


to  see  the  alligators  fed.  It  is  a 
carious  fact  that  the  so-called  alligators 
are  really  crocodiles,  aod  are  a  dinerent 
species  from  the  long-snouted  Ohaviai 
of  the  Indus.] 


ROUTE   15 

RuK  Junction  to  Shikarpitr, 
Jaoobabad,  Quetta,  and  Chaman. 

Bok  June  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  is  15  m. 
on  the  Karachi  side  of  Sukkur  (see 
p.  226).  Proceeding  by  the  Sind- 
rishin  Rly.  we  reach 

11m.  Shikarpnr  sta.  D.B.,  3^  a  muni- 
cipal town  and  headquarters  of  a  district 
of  the  same  name.  The  pop.  43,000,  of 
whom  16,000  are  Mohammedans.  The 
great  trade  road  to  Baluchistan,  Kanda- 
har, and  Central  Asia,  and  the  Bolan 
Pass,  for  which  Shikarpur  has  been  the 
depot,  passes  through  it.  The  railway 
encourages  direct  trading,  and  is  likely 
to  injure  the  conmierce  of  the  place. 
The  town  is  situated  in  a  tract  of  low- 
lyinff  country,  annually  flooded  by 
canids  from  the  Indus,  and  only  190 
ft.  aboye  sea-level. 

The  Chhoti  Begari^  a  branch  of  the 
Sind  Canal,  flows  to  the  S.  of  the 
town,  and  another  branch,  the  Raiswahy 
passes  on  the  N.  The  soil  in  the 
A-icinity  is  very  rich,  and  produces 
heavy  crops  of  grain  and  fruit,  especially 
dates,  mangoes,  oranges,  and  mulberries, 
all  of  which  are  excellent 

Up  to  1855  Shikarpur  was  not  a  clean 
town,  but  on  the  Municipal  Act  being 


brought  into  force  in  that  year,  gi-eat 
sanitary  improvements  were  effected. 
The  bazaar  in  Shikarpur  is  coverod 
in  on  account  of  the  heat  in  summer, 
Shikarpur  and  Jaoobabad  and  Sibi 
being  about  the  hottest  places  in 
India.  The  trains  from  Jaoobabad 
to  Sibi  only  go  at  night  on  account  o( 
the  lieat  in  the  desert  that  the  rail- 
way crosses.  The  old  bazaar  has  been 
lengthened,  and  the  prolongation  of  it, 
called  the  Stewart  Oanj  Market^  after 
a  popular  district  officer,  is  well  bult 
and  commodious :  it  is  the  best  baswr 
in  Sind.  To  the  £.  of  the  town  are  % 
laree  tanks,  called  Sarwar  Khan's  tank, 
Gillespie,  and  Hazarl  tanks.  There  is 
abundance  of  water  for  irrigation  and 
other  purposes,  but  the  climate  is  veiy 
hot  and  dry,  and  the  rainfall  for  twelfi 
years  averaged  only  5. 15  in. 

In  the  Jail,  postins  (pronounced 
poshteens),  or  sheepskin  coats,  ba* 
kets,  reed  chairs  covered  with  leathei^ 
carpets,  tents,  shoes,  etc,  are  made  b| 
the  prisoners. 

There  is  a  legend  which  ascribes  th 
foundation  of  Shikarpur  to  the  Dam 
Putras.  The  history  of  the  place  nj 
to  1824  is,  however,  uncertain,  but  ij 
that  year  it  came  into  the  peaceab| 
possession  of  the  Amirs  of  Sind.  I 
1848,  with  the  rest  of  the  oouutry,^ 
fell  to  the  British* 

36  m.  Jaoobabad  sta.,  D.B.  This  wi 
the  chief  military  frontier  station  befo] 
Quetta  was  occupied.  It  is  a  mun 
cipal  town,  and  capital  of  the  fironti 
district,  which  contains  an  area  of  4^ 
sq.  m.  The  station  itself,  includii 
the  military  camp,  has  11,000  inhabd 
ants,  of  whom  7000  belong  to  ti 
town.  The  heat  in  summer  is  v^ 
great,  and  grass  is  laid  upon  the  roa 
to  keej)  the  dust  down. 

The  town  was  planned  and  laid  c 
on  the  site  of  the  village  of  Khanga 
by  General  John  Jacob,  the  diat: 
guished  frontier  officer  and  commaiu 
of  the  Sind  horse,  said  by  Outranck 
be,  after  Lord  Napier  of  Magda 
the  best  soldier  in  India.  He  buiV 
Residency  of  considerable  size.  "Wl 
General  Jacob  first  arrived  iu  U^ 
Sind,  the  whole  country  about 


^ 


ftouHE  15.     siBi,  arc. 


236 


pxh.  was  in  a  state  of  anarchy,  bodies 
it  mounted  robbers — Bugtis,  Dumkis, 
lurdis,  or  Maris, — swept  the  plains 
nd  robbed  and  murdered  those  they 
ocountered.  Khangarh  itself  offered 
i  stout  resistance  to  the  6th  Bombay 
ff.I.,  but  General  Jacob's  rule  put  an 
Itid  to  all  these  troubles,  and  to  him 
inore  than  to  any  other  officer  the  peace 
\i  Upper  Sind  was  due.  Of  late  years 
facobabad  has  decreased  in  population 

K  importance.     It  is  garrisoned  by  a 
ive  cavalry  regiment. 

i  121  m.  Mithri  sta. 

133  m.    Sibi  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
Phis  place  is  in  the  valley  of  the  river 

Eari,  in  the  terntory  of  the  Khan  of 
helat.     It  is  just  at  the  entrance  of 
ike  Bolan  Pass.     Sibi  was  occupied  by 

te  British  in  the  name  of  Shah  Sujah 
)m  1839-42.     The  old  fort  was  used 
)B  a  commissariat  depot.     The  place 
pas  ceded  to  the  British  by  the  Treaty 
tf  Gundamuk  in  1879. 
From  Sibi  to  Bostan  junc,  there  are 
o  lines — the  Northern  or  Sind-Pishin 
way  by  HarTUii,  which  has  maxi- 
m  gradients  of  1  in  45  and  traverses 
country  inhabited  by  Pathans.     The 
tuthem  line  is  carried  through  the 
^olan  Pass,  and  is  called  the  Quetta 
Lint.     Its  steepest  gradients  are  1 
25.    The  inhabitants  are  all  Baluchis. 
!he  Southern  Railway  is  in  many  places 
mere  surface  line,  and  is  injured  by 
rery  heavy  flood  of  the  Bolan  river. 
k>th  roads  are  full  of  interest-     There 
le  Eipots  on  the  Hamai  line  where  the 
renery  is  unsurpassed  in  the  whole 
lorld  for  its  weird  grandeur.      The 
NKveller  must  at  any  sacrifice  of  time 
Irange  to  see  these  routes  by  day- 
Ight. 

I  A  word  of  warning  is  necessary  to  a 
itor  starting  on  this  journey.  In 
winter  cold  of  from  22**  to  23* 
below  zero  is  not  at  all  un- 
iiDinon  on  the  higlier  parts  of  the 
me,  whilst  in  summer  128"  inside 
Ihe  house  is  not  an  unfrequent  tem- 
^rature  at  Nari.  It  is  scarcely  neces- 
Iftry  to  say  that  the  consequences 
if  insuflBcient  clothing  may  be  very 
lerious  to  travellers  or  their  servants 


who  make  this  trip  as  part  of  a  cold 
weather  tour. 

The  Hamai  Boute. — Leaving  Sibi 
the  first  7  m.  are  in  open  country. 

At  140  m.  (from  Ruk)  Nari,  the 
road  enters  the  hills  and  traverses  most 
difficult  passes,  constantly  crossing  and 
re-crossing  the  Nari  river  and  its  tribu- 
taries. The  difficulties  of  construction 
on  this  part  of  the  line  were  very  great. 
The  scenery  will  reward  sustained  at- 
tention to 

162  m.  Kochali  sta. 

191  m.  Harnai  sta.  D.B.  A  good 
road  diverges  here  N.  E.  to  the  military 
cantonment  of  Loralai  on  the  frontier 
road  that  runs  from  Dera  Ghazi  Khan 
E.  on  the  river  Indus  to  Pishin  in  the 
W. 

197  m.  Nasak  Frontier  sta. 

208  m.  Shahrig  sta.,  (R.)  where  a 
halt  is  made  for  refreshments. 

225  m.  Dirgi  sta.     Thence  to 

230  m.  Mangi  sta.,  D.B.  [This  is 
the  station  for  Ziarat  (22  m.),  the  hot 
weather  resort  for  residents  of  Belu- 
chistan.  Ziarat  is  a  valley  8000  ft. 
above  the  sea,  with  the  hills  clothed  in 
juniper  forests.  ]  The  scenery  is  very  fine. 
In  this  length  the  GhappaRift  is  passed. 
Here  a  huge  mountain  has  the  appear- 
ance of  having  been  cracked  from  top 
to  bottom  through  the  solid  mass  of 
limestone.  The  rift  itself  is  passed  at 
nearly  300  ft.  above  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  and  the  traveller  at  several 
places  seems  suspended  in  the  air.  In 
approaching  and  leaving  the  rift  the 
train  constantly  runs  in  and  out  of 
tunnels  and  across  high  bridges.  The 
mountainous  country  continues  to 

262  m.  Fullers  Gamp  sta.  From 
there  to 

268  m.  Bostan  junc.  sta.  (for  Quetta) 
(R. )  it  is  comparatively  open. 

Leaving  Quetta  behind  for  the  time, 
the  traveller  may  continue  his  journey 
to  the  Afghan  frontier  on  the  way  to 
Kandahar. 

About  14  m.  beyond  Bostan  junc. 
the  Lora  River  is  passed,  the  first  stream 
the  traveller  will  have  seen  on  the 
Central  Asian  watershed,  all  the  rivers 


236 


ROtJtE  16.      RtJK  JTJKCnoN  TO  QtJBTTA,  ETC. 


Inctta 


he  has  hitherto  crossed  dnuzdng  into 
the  Arabian  Sea. 

208  m.  GnliBtui  sta.  In  the  infancy 
of  these  lines  a  short  surface  railway 
was  laid  from  here  towards  the  Gwaja 
Pass,  an  alternative  route  to  Kandahar. 
It  is  not  now  used,  the  main  line 
taming  due  N.  to 

806  m.  KiUa  Abdnlla  (R.) 

316  m.  Shela  Bagh  is  at  the  foot  of 
the  Kojak  Paaa,  and  near  the  S.E.  end 
of  the  tunnel  passing  under  the  Kwaja 
Amran  Mountains.    This  tunnel  is  2) 


descent  into  the  Eadanai  Valley,  whidi 
lies  far  below  Chaman,  and  the  distaaei: 
to  Kandahar  will  be  about  85  m. 

The  traveller  must  now  retrace  Is, 
steps  to  Bostanjunc,  and  is  advM 
to  return  to  Sind  by  the  Quetta  huf: 
Line,  which  traverses  the  Bolan  Vm 
The  railway  line  from  Bostan  to  ttii 
Bolan  traverses  the  Quetta  Yalkf, 
which  is  fertile  and  populous.  It  hm 
been  administered  by  British  oflBees 
since  1877.  Passing  7  m.  EoeUil^ 
and  13  m.  Beleli  we  reach 


.'  \Chatnan 


QUETTA. 

EneUshMDes 


m.  long.  Passing  through  it  we  reach 
the  present  ending  of  the  line  at 

335  m.  Chaman  sta.,  where  there  is 
a  small  military  outpost. 

The  Kojak  Pass  is  surmounted  by  a 
fine  military  road,  and  those  who  have 
the  opportunity  should  ascend  it  (7500 
ft)  to  see  the  magnificent  view,  W.  over 
the  Kadomi  Plain,  and  N.  beyond  Kan- 
dahar, which  is  hidden  by  intervening 
hills. 

When  the  line  is  continued  to  Kanda- 
har it  will  necessarily  make  a  long  bend 
to  the  N.   to  obtain  length   for  the 


IVal/ur  &-BcutaUu» 


21  ra.  Quetta  sta.  ifi  (R. ),  D.  B.  It  is  w 
called  by  the  Afghans,  but  is  designated 
by  the  Brahms,  the  people  of  the  countiy, 
Shal,  It  is  situated  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  Shal  Valley,  and  is  very  conveni- 
ently placed  as  regards  Khelat,  from 
which  it  is  distant  103  m.  N.  The 
town  is  surrounded  by  a  mud  wall,  and 
has  two  gates,  one  to  the  £.  and  another 
to  the  S.,  which  latter  is  called  the 
Shikarpuri  Gate.  N.  E.  stands  the  Min 
or  Fort,  a  former  residence  of  the  Khaa 
of  Khelat,  from  which  there  is  a  yeiy 
extensive   view   of  the   neighbonriog 


BOUTE  16.      BAH▲R▲^FOBE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


M7 


?«]lej.  It  is  BOW  used  as  an  arsenal 
for  the  force,  fieleli  is  another  arti- 
Scial  mound  in  the  lines  of  that  name. 
Qaetta  is  surrounded  by  strongly-forti- 
fed  lines,  and  commanding,  as  it  does 
with  its  strongly-fortified  outpost  of 
Beleli,  both  the  Xqfak  and  Bolan  Passes, 
It  forms  one  of  the  most  important 
frontier  posts  of  our  Indian  Empire. 
It  has  rapidly  increased  and  prospered 
innce  the  British  occupation,  ana  now 
eontains  about  12,000  to  15,000  in- 
babitants,  of  whom  many  are  Afghans. 
In  summer  the  climate  is  considered 
yery  pleasant,  the  heat  being  tempered 
by  cool  breezes  from  the  lofty  hiUs 
which  surround  the  valley,  but  in 
winter  the  cold  is  very  severe.  On  the 
whole,  the  station  is  now  regarded  as 
one  of  the  best  in  our  Indian  Empire. 
Numerous  gardens  and  orchards  abound 
in  the  suburbs,  and  the  water-supply 
is  good. 

Quetta  was  occupied  by  British 
troops  in  the  first  expedition  to  Kabul, 
and  Captain  Bean  was  appointed  the  first 
political  Agent  Since  1876  a  British 
political  officer  has  again  resided  at 
Quetta  under  the  official  designation 
c^  the  Governor-General's  Agent  for 
British  Baluchistan,  a  district  ceded  to 
us  by  the  Treaty  of  Gundamuk.  Dur- 
ing the  Afghan  campaigns  of  1878- 
1880,  Quetta  formed  the  base  of  opera- 
tions for  the  Bombay  column.  It  is 
now  the  headquarters  of  a  strong 
brigade,  and  a  flourishing  native  town 
has  sprung  up  close  to  the  cantonments. 
47  m.  Eotal  Darwasa  sta,  Looking 
back  on  the  ascent  to  this  place  there 
k  a  beautiful  view  of  the  Quetta  Valley, 
ri'om  this  commences  the  Bolan  Pass. 
The  ruling  gradient  of  the  railway  is  1 
in  40,  but  in  places  it  is  as  steep  as  1 
in  25.  The  passage  of  this  defile  occu- 
pies an  important  place  in  the  history 
of  all  our  Afghan  campaigns. 

The  Bolan  River ,  a  torrent  rising  at 
Sir-i-Bolan,  flows  through  the  whole 
length  of  the  pass,  and  like  all  mount- 
ain streams,  is  subject  to  sudden  floods ; 
in  one  of  which,  in  1841,  a  British  de- 
tachment was  lost  with  its  baggage. 
When  the  stream  was  not  swollen, 
however,  artillery  was  conveyed  through 
^thout  any  serious  difficulty.    In  1889 


a  Bengal  column,  with  ita  artillery, 
c<MiaLsting  of  8-in.  mortaw,  24-pounder 
howitzers,  and  18-pounder  gnus,  went 
through  the  Bolan  in  six  days.  The 
narrowest  parts  of  the  pass  are  just 
above  Khundilani,  and  Deycmd  Sir-i- 
Bolan.  At  the  Khundilani  Qurge  the 
cliffs  of  conglomerate  on  either  side 
rise  to  a  height  of  800  ft,  and  when 
the  stream  is  in  flood  it  completely  fills 
the  gorge.  At  Sir-i-Bolan  the  rocks 
are  of  lunestone,  and  the  passage  is  so 
narrow  that  only  three  or  four  men  can 
ride  abreast.  The  temperature  in  the 
pass  during  summer  and  autumn  is  very 
high  ;  water  is  abundant  and  good,  but 
firewood  is  scarcely  procurable.  The 
pass  was  infested  by  plundering  Bala- 
chis  and  Brahuis,  who  lived  by  roblnng 
caravans,  and  deterred  peaceably  dis- 
posed tribes  from  settling  in  the  vaUeya ; 
but  since  the  British  occupation  thM 
depredations  have  been  completely  sup- 
pressed. Trade  is  prospering  in  the 
pass,  and  cultivation,  so  far  as  climate 
and  soil  permit,  is  progressing.  £Vom 
Bibi  Nani  a  mountain  road  leads  to 
Ehelat,  distant  110  m.,  vid  Barade, 
Rudbar,  Narmah,  Takhi,  and  Eishan. 
The  bottom  of  the  pass  is  reached  at 
Bindli,  and  there  are  no  special  obstacles 
on  the  way  into  Bibi. 


ROUTE  16 

Saharanporb,  bt  Oudh  and  Roril- 
ouND  Railway,  to  Hardwar, 
Barsilly,     Lucknow,    Fyzabap, 

BSKARES,  AND  MOOUL  SARAI. 

Baharanpora  sta.  is  between  Delhi 
and  Umballa  (see  p.  194). 

22  m.  Roorkaesta.  {RwrH),  D.B.,  a 
modem  manufacturing  town  and  mili- 
tary station,  stands  on  a  ridge  overlook- 
ing the  bed  of  the  Solani  river.  Up  to 
1845  it  was  merely  a  mud-built  village, 
it  is  now  a  flourishing  town  of  16,000 


238 


ROUTE  16.      BAHABANFORE  TO  MOGUL  8ARAI 


India 


inlukbitanta,  with  broad  metalled  road- 
wayi  meeting  at  right  angles,  and  lined 
wiui  excellent  shops.  The  Ganges 
CaiuU  passes  to  the  £.  of  the  town 
between  raised  embankments.  It  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  Ganges  Canal 
workshops  andiron  foundry,  established 
in  1845-1852. 

The  Thomason  Civil  Engineering 
College,  was  founded  in  1847.  The 
students  are  partly  English  youths  bom 
in  the  country,  partly  Eurasians  and 
natives  ;  with  special  dasses  for  soldiers 
picked  for  their  ability.  There  are  a 
Church,  Dispensary,  Police  Station, 
Botanical  Gardens,  Post  Office,  and  a 
Mission  School  of  the  S.  P.  G.  There 
is  also  an  excellent  Meteorological 
Observatory. 

83  m.  Lhaksar  June.  sta.  [A  branch 
line  from  here  runs  N.  16  m.  to  Hard- 
war,  giving  access  to  Dehra  Dun  and 
the  hill-stations  of  Mussoorie,  Landour, 
and  Chakrata  (see  Kte.  17).] 

78  m.  Nagina  sta.  (R.) 

59  m.  Nijibabad.  [Branch  line  to 
Kotdwara  15  m.,  whence  a  road  18  no. 
to  the  military  hill  station  of  Lans- 
doume,  which  is  garrisoned  by  two 
native  regiments.] 

120  m.  Moradabad  sta.  3^  D.B.,  lies 
at  the  S.E.  of  the  city,  ^  m.  S.  of 
the  junction  with  the  Meenit  road. 
Moradabad  (pop.  73,400)  is  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Ramganga  river. 
Beyond  the  jail,  to  N.  W.  of  town,  are 
the  Cantonments  and  civil  station. 
It  is  noted  for  carved  wood  work. 

St  PauVa  Church  is  W.  of  the  D.B. 

About  i  m.  N.  of  the  railway  sta.  is  the 
American  Churchy  built  by  their  Metho- 
dist Mission  in  1874.  It  is  used  as  a 
school,  except  during  hours  of  service. 
The  Mission  has  also  a  vernacular  school 
in  the  city.  The  office  of  the  Tahsildar 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  is  a 
handsome  white  building.  1  m. 
from  this  church  is  the  Zil'a  School, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ramganga, 
jirhich  is  here  crossed  by  a  bridge  of 
ooats.  To  the  W.  of  the  school  is  the 
Badshai  Musjid.  The  date  is  in  the 
reign  of  Shah  Jehan,  1628-58  A.D. 
The  principal  mosque,  to  the  S.  of  the 
school,  is  a  plain  large  building,  with 
an  inscription  in  the  central  alcove 


inside  in  Persian.  The  date  cone- 
sponds  to  1686  a.d.  N.  of  the  school 
are  the  ruins  of  Rustam  Khan's  fort, 
the  walls  of  which  are  of  burnt  brick, 
and  are  from  4  to  6  ft.  thick ;  it  ii 
quite  close'to  the  Ramganga.  A  large 
well  here  is  called  the  Mint  Well,  be- 
cause it  supplied  water  to  the  Mint  in 
which  Rustam  Khan  coined  his  money. 
What  occurred  at  Moradabad  during 
the  Mutiny  has  been  told  by  Kaye  in 
his  Sepoy  Wwr,  vol.  iii.  p.  252.  The 
29th  B.N. I.,  posted  at  this  station, 
were  for  some  time  kept  steady  by  Mr. 
Cracroft  Wilson,  the  Judge,  but  the 
gunners  of  the  N.  Artillery  sho\  . 
from  the  first  unmistakable  signs  of  an 
inclination  to  revolt.  On  the  18th  of 
May  a  regiment  fromMeerut,  which hai 
mutinied,  came  down  upon  Moradabad, 
and  arrived  at  the  Gangan  Bridge; 
They  had  with  them  a  conaiderabli 
treasure,  which  they  had  carried  ell 
from  Zafamagar.  Mr.  Wilson  moved 
against  them  with  a  detachment  o( 
the  29th,  under  two  excellent  officen^ 
Captain  Faddy  and  Lieut.  Clifford,  anj 
a  body  of  Irreg.  Horse.  He  surprised 
the  20th  asleep,  and  eight  or  ten  of  then 
were  seized,  one  shot  dead  by  a  trooper, 
and  the  treasure  captured.  Next  dai 
the  mutineers  of  the  20th  entered 
Moradabad,  when  one  was  shot  dead 
by  a  Sikh  Sepoy  of  the  29th,  and  fool 
were  made  prisoners.  The  slain  mai 
was  a  relative  of  one  of  the  29th,  whe 
prevailed  on  a  number  of  his  comrade 
to  go  to  the  jail  and  get  his  body,  an( 
also  to  rescue  the  military  prisonera 
The  guard  at  the  jail  fraternised  wit! 
these  men,  and  all  the  prisoners  in  th 
jail  were  released,  but  the  Adjutant  a 
the  29th  and  Wilson  with  a  few  Sepoy 
and  a  few  Irregulars  captured  150  o 
the  prisoners,  and  lodged  them  agaii 
in  the  jaiL  In  this  manner  Wilson  coni 
tinned  to  make  use  of  the  29th,  thougl 
in  a  dangerous  mood,  and  he  evei 
disarmed  two  companies  of  Sappers  whi 
marched  in  from  Koorkee  and  had  mut 
inied.  But  when  the  newsof  themutin) 
at  Bareilly  arrived  it  became  impossibll 
to  restrain  the  Sepoys  any  longer,  and 
Wilson  had  to  make  over  the  treasun 
to  them,  and  escape  with  the  othef 
civilians  and  their  wives  to  Meerut 


EOUTE  16.   SHAJAHANPORE — LUCKNOW 


239 


4 


ym.  Bareilly June  sta.  s^  (R.)  D.B. 
^  here  the  Rohilcund  and  Eamaon 
yf  ^  ay  runs  N.  to  66  m.  Katkgodam^ 
5^  Naini  Tal,  and  30  m.  to"  Phili- 
*^D.B.  (seeRte.  16a).  Goods,  aud 
i^iassenger,  trains  reach  Bareilly  md 
^(^iausi  jane.  A  line  from  Chan- 
;:  runs  to  Aligarh  on  the  E.  I.  Rly. 
1^'.  267).] 

^-feilly  was  the  chief  city  of  Rohil- 

-     .  and  long  had  a  bad  name  for 

>^<^~ection.     In  1816  an  insurrection 

•^^^i  out,  in  consequence  of  the  im- 

4uM«ton  of  a  new  tax  on  hoases.     A 

«Sa  i,  named   Muhammad   Aiwaz,   a 

^^•^ot  great  age  and  reputed  sanctity, 

>?^iraged   the    popular    excitement. 

L  /  was  soon  joined   by  5000  armed 

^,  \    They  attacked  the  troops,  but 

kJ^  a  sharp  conflict  were  dispersed, 

^/t  the  loss  of  several  hundred  men 

Ht^tXl  and  wounded. 

e^i^ome  remembrances  of  this  affair,  no 

^^t,  lingered  amongst  the  pop.  of 

^«iUy  when  the  news  of  the  outbreak 

<SIB67  at  Meerut  and  Delhi  arrived. 

X^  was  a  small  fort  to  the  S.  of  the 

5/ L  and  one-sixth  of  a  mile  to  the  E. 

^  le  railway  station,  which  had  been 

h  by   Government   for    a   citadel, 

^ir  the    insurrection    of   1816.      It 

^quadrangular,  with  a  good  ditch 

ri  two  bastions  projecting  from  op- 

rilte  angles,   but  nothing  seems  to 

te^  been  done  to  place  it  in  a  state 

lefence.     In  cantonments  there  were 

ive  troops  only.    There  was  a  large 

|Ster  of  civilians,  and  altogether  there 

jto  nearly  100  Christians,  exclusive  of 

imen  and  children.    On  the  31st  May 

j9  outbreak  took  place.      Parties  of 

le  68th  set  fire  to  the  English  houses, 

ley  then  shot  down  every  white  man 

l«y  met.       Major  Pearson  and   four 

Jkei  officers  of  the  18th  escaped  from 

te  ground,   but  were  killed  by  the 

fflagers  of  Rampatti.     The  Commis- 

|)ner,  Mr.  Alexander,  escaped  to  Naini 

"»!,  as  did  Mr.  Guthries  the  Collector 

Magistrate  ;  and  the  Joint  Magis- 

ites,  Mr.    Parley  and   Mr.    Currie. 

Judges,  Mr.   D.   Robertson,   Mr. 

:e8,  and  also  Dr.  Hay  and  Mr.  Orr, 

all    killed.      Thus    the    higher 

ns,    with    several    subordinates, 

slain,   as   were  many  merchants 


and  traders,  with  their  wives  and 
children.  Ehan  Bahadur  Khan,  a 
descendant  of  Hafiz  Rahmat  Ehan,  the 
famous  Rohilla  chief,  was  proclaimed 
viceroy,  and  he  ordered  all  Christians 
to  be  killed.  Mr.  Handsborough,  the 
Superintendent  of  the  Jail,  who  had 
defended  himself  for  a  full  day,  was 
then  brought  to  the  Nawab  and  cut  to 
pieces. 

219  m.  Shahiahanpore  sta.  (R.) 
Chief  town  of  a  district  with  civil  sta. 
and  military  cantonment.  Pop.  78, 800. 
The  station  contains  an  English  church 
and  three  churches  for  native  converts 
belonging  to  the  American  Methodist 
Mission,  which  aliso  supports  several 
schools.  The  principal  local  manu- 
facture is  sugar.  The  Rosa  sugar  fac- 
tory and  rum  distillery  is  situated  on 
the  Garra  river  a  few  m.  from  the 
city,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
railway. 

258  m.  Haxdoi  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

321  m.  LUC5KN0W  June.  sta.  (R.)  :0c 
[Branch  S.W.  to  Cawnpore ;  S.E. 
to  Hoy  Bareilly.]  The  city  covers 
36  sq.  m.,  and  has  a  pop.  of  272,600 
including  the  cantonments,  of  whom 
three-fifths  are  Hindus.  It  is  the  largest 
city  in  the  Indian  Empire  after  Calcutta, 
Madras,  and  Bombay.  It  has  been  the 
capital  of  Oiidhsincel776.  It  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Goomti,  but 
there  are  suburbs  on  the  left  bank.  The 
deepest  interest  attaches  to  the  ruined 
Residency  and  its  crowded  cemetery, 
and  to  every  stage  of  its  defence  by  a 
handful  of  men  against  a  large  army. 
No  Englishman  can  fail  to  be  moved 
by  the  memories  of  the  deeds  done  in 
Lucknow  when  Henry  Lawrence,  Have- 
lock,  Outram,  and  Colin  Campbell 
commanded,  and  brave  men  served 
with  devotion  and  give  their  lives  un- 
grudgingly. 

The  traveller  must  not  expect  to 
find  in  the  capital  of  Oudh  the  beauti- 
ful architecture  of  Northern  or  Western 
India,  or  the  elaborate  carvings  of  the 
South.  The  buildings  of  Lucknow 
are  poor  in  design  and  execution. 
A  day  spent  in  Agra,  Delhi,  or 
Ahmedabad  will  disclose  more  to 
admire  than  a  month  in  Lucknow. 


2i0 


ROUTE  16.       SAHARANPORE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


Indk 


Before  TiBitiiig  the  Residencj,  the 
trayeller  should  on  no  acooiwt  fail 
to  stop  at  the  Kuaeva  behind  the 
Chatr  Manzil,  in  order  to  study 
the  Vodel  of  the  Beeidency  made 
by  Chaplain  Moore.  By  so  doin£  he 
will  start  with-  a  far  better  g^v 
of  the  relative  positions  of  the  build- 
ings and  of  the  scenes  of  the  memor- 
able sieg«;  than  he  would  otherwise 
have.  ^  It  represents  the  Besidency 
before  the  clearances  were  made.  It 
shows  the  great  disadvantages  under 
which  the  besieged  fought,  as  the 
enemy  were  close  to  them  idl  round, 
and  under  cover.  But  this  model  is 
not  the  only  attraction  to  the  Museum  ; 
it  also  contains  an  extremely  interest- 
ing collection  of  Buddhist  sculptures 
and  fragments  of  architecture  from 
Muttra  and  other  places  which  have 
been  brought  together  here.  Amongst 
them  is  one  fragment,  unearthed  in  1891 
by  Dr.  A.  Fiihrer,  which  rtossesses  very 
considerable  archseological  interest  It 
is  a  torana  bearing  a  relief  represeutiuf 
a  stupa  worshipped  by  Centaurs  and 
Harpies,  or,  as  the  Hindus  would  say, 
Kiunaras,  and  Garudas  or  Suparnas. 
Centaurs  have  been  found  on  the 
Buddhist  sculptures  at  Bharhut  and 
Gaya,  while  Muttra  has  furnished  the 
Silenus  groups  and  Hercules  strangling 
the  Nemean  lion.  This  find  is  a 
further  addition  to  the  monuments 
which  prove  the  influence  of  Hellen- 
istic art  among  the  Hindus  of  the  last 
centuries  preceding  our  era. 

The  Residency. —This  term  is  now 
applied  to  the  cluster  of  buildings 
which  became  famous  during  the 
Mutiny,  and  not  only  to  the  Residency 
building  itself.  Their  total  length 
from  N.W.  to  S.E.  was  2150  ft.,  and 
from  E.  to  W.,  that  is,  from  the  Baillie 
Guard  to  Gubbins's  Battery,  1200  ft. 
The  first  thing  the  traveller  will  see  on 
his  visit  to  the  Residency  is  an  Obelisk^ 
erected  by  Lord  Northbrook,  in  front 
of  the  Baillie  Guard,  with  an  inscrip- 
tion in  memory  of  the  native  officers 
and  Sepoys  who  died  near  this  spot 
nobly  performing  their  duty. 

On  the  evening  of  the  17th  of  May 

1  See  iMchtiow  and  Ovde  in  the  IfiUiny,  by 
Lieut.-Qeneral  M'Leod  Innes,  II.E.,  V.G. 


a  part  of  the  82d  Foot,  with  guns,  had 
been  brought  into  the  Residency  from 
the  cantonments  (see  Eaye,  vol.  iii.  p. 
437),  and  with  them  came  great  numbers 
of  Englishwomen  and  children.    The 
Treasury    contained    over    60    lajdu 
of  rupees.   A  guard  of  Sepoys  had  bsen 
in  charge,  but  a  European  guard  wu 
now  substituted.     The  defences  of  tlie 
Residency  and  its  buildings,  begianin? 
from  the  Baillie  Guard  on  the  E.  and 
proceeding    to    the    N.,    were,    Ist, 
Alexander's  Battery ;  2d,  Water  Gate 
Battery ;   Sd,  Redan  Battery ;  4th,  a 
palisade ;  and    then  turning  S.,  the 
Innis    Garrison,    the    Bliusa    Guard, 
Ommaney's    Battery,    the    Gubbias'a 
Garrison,  and  Gubbins's  Battery,  th« 
Sikh  Square ;  and  turning  to  the  E.,  the 
Cawnpore  Battery,  Thomas's  Battery, 
Anderson's  Garrison,  Post  Office  Garri- 
son, Judicial  Garrison,  Sago's  Gnasdi 
and  Financial  Garrison.     The  gateway 
of  the  Baillie  Guard  was  an  ordinary 
^teway,  commanded  by  Lieut  Aitkeo, 
On  entering  through  it,  Dr.  Fayrer'a 
house  will  be  seen  to  the  left,  50  ft 
back.      In  a  room  in  this  house  Sir 
Henry  Lawrence  died,  and  a  written 
notice  calls  attention  to  the  fact     At 
100  ft  from  the  Baillie  Guaitl  is  a 
small  pillar  inscribed  "Financial  Post," 
and  this  is  the  first  of  a  series  of  such 
pillars  which  surround  the  Residency, 
and  mark  the  spots  where  the  ditferent  < 
detachments  of  the  garrison  were  posted. 
The  ground  to  the  W.  of  this  pillar 
rises  in  mounds,  and  a  little  way  to 
the  S.E.  of  this  pillar  is  another  with 
"Sago's   Post";    then  comes   **  Gor- 
men's Post,**  at  the  top  of  the  slope  j 
to  the  rear  of  Geniion's  was  ''Resi- 
dency  Post*'      To  the  N.  is   "Post 
Office  Post,**  and  in  line  with  Ger- 
mon's  is  "Anderaon's  Ganiscm.**    To 
the  W.   of  Andei  son's  in   the    same 
line,  is  the  Cawnpore  Battery  pillar. 
This  was  the  most  dangerous  post  of 
alL     The  mutineers  had  rifles  fixed  in 
rests  in  the  house  opposite,  and  swept 
the  road  that  led  through  the  Residency 
enclosure  here.    To  show  one's  self  in 
that  road  was  certain  death.   At  50  ft  to 
the  K. W.  is  Duprat's  pillar.  Duprat  was 
a  gallant  Frenchman,  who  had  served 
in  the  French  army.     On  W.  side  of 


ROUTE  16.       LUCKNOW 


24t 


It  was  the  "  Martini^re  Post"  The  boys 
of  the  Martini^re  School  were  employed 
in  many  ways,  but  took  no  part  in  the 
actual  lighting.  Johannes's  house  was 
30  yds.  to  the  S.  outside  the  defences. 
In  the  extreme  W.  is  a  pillar  marking 
Gnbbins's  house,  to  the  W.  of  which 
was  the  Sikh  square.  To  the  E. 
is  Ommaney's  house,  and  E.  of  it 
Be^m  Kothi,  a  large  building  in 
which  the  ladies  were  quartered,  and 
where  they  were  comparatively  safe. 
At  the  extreme  N.  is  a  mandir  or 
temple.  Beyond  Begam  Kothi  to  the 
N.  W.  is  the  Residency,  the  finest  build- 
ing in  Luck  now,  with  a  subterraneous 
apartment,  in  which  the  women  of  the 
32d  were  located.  Close  to  this  is  an 
artificial  mound  30  ft.  high,  which  now 
has  a  handsome  white  marble  Cross, 
20  ft  high  at  the  summit  This  is  the 
Lawrence  Memorial,  and  on  it  is  in- 
scribed— 

In  memory  of 

UAJOR-OEN.  SIR  HENRY  LAWRENCE, 

K,O.B., 

And  the  brave  men  who  fell 

In  defence  of  the  Residency, 

1867. 

The  traveller  should  go  round  the 
entrenchments  of  the  Residency,  and 
wiQ  do  well  to  ascend  the  tower,  which 
is  propped  up,  and  55  ft.  high.  There 
is  a  fine  view  from  the  top.  Below  it 
is  spread  out  the  CemetBry,  the  most 
interesting  spot  in  Lucknow,  where 
2000  heroic  men  and  women  lie.  It  is 
shaded  with  tall  trees,  festooned  with 
creepers,  and  laid  out  with  flowers  and 
walks.  The  monuments  are  numerous 
and  interesting.  A  simple  tomb  marks 
the  spot  where  Henry  Lawrence  lies 
buried,  and  on  it  is  inscribed  the  touch- 
ing epitaph,  dictated  by  himself — 

Here  lies 

HENRY  LAWRENCE, 

Who  tried  to  do  his  duty. 

May  the  Lord  have  mercy  on  his  soul  I 

Bom  28th  of  June  1806. 

Died  4th  of  July  1867. 

Here  follows  a  very  brief  account  of 
what  took  place  before  the  attack  on 
the  Residency  and  during  its  siege : — 

The  first  startling  event  that  occurred 
was  the  mutiny  of  the  7th  Oudh  Irreg. 
Infantry,  3rd  May  1857,  at  Musa  Bagh, 
[India] 


a  palace  of  one  of  the  ex-king's  wives, 
situated  at  4J  m.  from  the  Resi- 
dency. Major  Gall,  commanding  the 
4th  Irreg.  Cavalry,  on  being  informed 
of  the  imminent  danger  of  the  Euro- 
pean officers,  galloped  up  to  the  vicinity 
with  his  troopers.  Soon  after  Sir  H. 
Lawrence  arrived  with  a  mixed  force 
of  Europeans  and  natives.  The  mu- 
tineers then  broke  and  fled,  but  some 
were  made  prisoners,  and  others  gave 
up  their  arms.  Sir  H.  Lawrence,  a 
few  days  afterwards,  held  a  darbar  in 
the  Cantonment  Residency ;  the  troops 
were  drawn  up,  and  two  native  officers, 
who  had  given  information  of  the 
intended  outbreak,  were  promoted.' 
Sir  H.  Lawrence  harangued  the  troops 
and  the  city  was  tranquil  for  some 
weeks  afterwards.  On  the  23d  of 
May,  two  detachments  of  cavalry  were 
sent  to  Cawnpore,  to  clear  the  road 
between  it  and  Agra.  Near  Mainpuri 
the  troopers  mutinied,  and  killed  one 
or  more  of  their  officera,  the  rest  escaping 
by  flight. 

On  the  30th  May  the  Mutiny  began 
in  the  cantonments,  and  quickly  became 
general.  Brigadier  Handscombe  was 
shot  dead,  as  was  Lieut.  Grant,  of  the 
7l8t.  The  mutineers  attacked  Sir  Henry 
and  his  stafl"  at  the  artillery  ground, 
but  were  driven  off  with  some  rounds  of 
grape,  which  killed  many  of  them.  On 
the  31st  of  May  a  Mr.  Mendes  was  mur- 
dered in  his  own  house,  in  the  cil^. 
Martial  law  was  now  proclaimed ; 
but  Sir  Henry  was  of  opinion  that  the 
Residency  would  stand  only  a  fort-' 
night's  siege.  Owing  to  Sir  Henry's 
foresight,  and  by  his  orders,  supplies  of 
wheat  and  all  sorts  of  provisions  were 
brought  into  the  Residency  and  Machchi 
Bhawan,  which  had  belonged  to  Nawab 
'Ali  Khan,  and  was  bought  by  Sir 
HeniT  for  50,000  rs.  It  was  sur- 
rounded by  high  walls  and  towers. 
Towards  the  N.  it  commanded  the 
Iron  and  Stone  Bridges.  The  place, 
however,  proved  of  little  service.  The 
cholera  soon  broke  out  in  it,  and  there 
were  not  sufficient  men  to  hold  both  it 
and  the  Residency.  On  the  1st  of  July, 
the  garrison  having  been  withdrawn, 
the  Machchi  Bhawan  was  blown  up. 
On  the  11th  of  June  the  cavalry  of  the 
R 


ut 


HOUTE  16.      6ABARAMP0RX  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


Military  Police  mutinied,  and  the 
infantry  followed  their  example ;  but 
one  Sobahdar,  one  Jam^adar,  six  Ha- 
waldars,  and  26  Sei)oys  remained  fait^- 
fiil,  and  continued  to  guard  the  jail. 
Meantime,  yery  large  bodies  of  mutin- 
eers were  advancing  on  Lucknow,  and 
on  the  30th  of  June  Sir  Henry,  with  a 
small  mixed  force,  marched  out  to  dis- 
perse them.  He  was  defeated,  losing 
some  euns  and  119  Enslish  soldiers. 
The  rebels  now  pressed  l£e  sieoe  of  the 
Residency  with  vigour.  On  the  2d  of 
July  Sir  Henry  was  wounded  while 
resting  on  his  couch  in  his  room  by  a 
shell ;  and  after  he  had  made  over  the 
office  of  Chief  Commissioner  to  Major 
Banks,  and  conferred  the  chief  military 
command  on  Colonel  Inglis,  he  passed 
4way  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  July. 
The  Coolies  who  had  been  building  the 
works  of  defence  all  fied,  and  with 
them  went  most  of  the  domestic 
servants.  The  strongest  post  that  the 
besieged  had  was  the  Redan  Battery,  at 
the  N.E.  angle,  built  and  fortified  by 
Captain  Fulton,  of  the  Engineers. 
It  formed  rather  more  than  three- 
fourths  of  a  circle,  and  was  elevated 
oonsiderably  above  the  street  below. 
It  wasarmed  with  two  eighteen-pounders 
and  one  nine-pounder,  which  could  play 
on  the  whole  river's  side  and  the 
buildings  on  the  opposite  bank.  Along 
the  Bedan,  as  far  as  the  hospital,  was 
a  wall  of  fascines  and  earthwori^,  with 
loopholes  fonned  by  sandbags,  through 
which  the  besieged  fired  with  certain 
effect ;  and  ontside  the  Residency  and 
the  hospital,  and  as  far  as  the  Baillie 
Guard,  was  a  clear  space,  1000  yds. 
long  and  400  wide,  which,  being  ex- 
ceedingly.  low,  formed  a  glacis  for  the 
entrenchments  above. 

The  Residency,  with  its  lofty  rooms, 
fine  verandahs,  and  large  porticoes,  its 
range  of  subterraneous  apartments,  its 
ground  floor  and  two  upper  stories, 
afforded  accommodation  to  nearly  1000 
persons — men,  women,  and  children. 
The  hospital,  formerly  the  banqueting 
hall,  had  only  two  stories.  The  front 
rooms  were  given  to  officers,  the  back 
part  was  made  a  dispensary,  and  the 
other  rooms  allotted  to  soldiers.  A 
battery  of  three  guns  was  placed  be- 


tween the  Water  Gate  and  the  liospital. 
The  right  wing  of  the  hospital  was 
used  for  making  fuses  and  oartndgeB, 
and  in  front  of  it  was  a  battery  of  three 
mortars.  The  Baillie  Guard  was  a 
continuation  of  the  hospital,  but  on 
much  lower  ground.  A  part  of  it  was 
used  as  a  store-room,  part  as  the 
treasury,  part  as  an  office,  and  the  rest 
as  barracks  for  the  Sepoys,  who  flir* 
risoned  it  under  Lieut.  Aitken.  Jk. 
Fayrer's  house,  like  the  Baillie  Goaid, 
faced  the  E.  It  was  commanded  Vy 
Captain  Weston  and  Dr.  Fayrer.  The 
Post  Office  was  a  very  important 
position,  commanding  the  jail  and 
mosque  to  the  right,  and  the  Clodc 
Tower  and  offices  of  the  Tara  Kothi  to 
the  left,  all  being  outside  the  entrench* 
ment.  It  was  made  a  barrack-room  for 
the  soldiers,  and  was  armed  with  three 
gans.  The  Financial  Office  outpost 
was  commanded  by  Captain  Sanders  of 
the  13th.  It  was  a  large  two-storied 
house,  and  well  barricaded.  The  Begam 
Kothi  was  nearly  in  the  centre  of  all 
the  defences.  A  double  range  of  out- 
offices  formed  a  square  within  a  square, 
one  side  of  which  was  an  Imambarah, 
afterwards  converted  into  an  officers' 
hospital. 

On  the  2d  of  July,  the  day  of  Sir 
Henir's  being  wounded,  the  rebels 
attacked  the  Baillie  Guard  Gate.  The 
deaths  now  averaged  from  15  to  20 
daily.  Many  were  killed  by  an  African, 
who  fired  from  Johannes's  house,  outside 
the  entrenchment,  without  ever  miss- 
ing. On  the  8th,  Captain  Mansfield 
and  three  other  officers,  and  Maycock, 
a  civilian,  sallied  out,  spiked  a  gpan, 
and  killed  about  40  of  the  rebels  with- 
out losing  a  man,  though  three  were 
wounded.  On  the  9th  another  sortie 
was  made,  when  a  private  named 
O'Keene  spiked  a  gun.  On  the  10th, 
the  ammunition  of  the  rebels'  cannon 
falling  short,  they  began  to  fire  pieces 
of  wood,  copper  coin,  iron,  and  even 
bullock's  horns.  On  the  14th  the 
enemy  made  a  general  attack.  On  the 
16th  the  rebels  made  a  night  attack  on 
Gubbins's  Battery,  but  were  beaten 
back.  On  the  20th  of  July  they  ex- 
ploded a  mine  near  the  Bedan.  The^ 
attempted  to  storm  the  Baillie  Guard, 


llOtTTB  16.      LtrOKNOW 


U^ 


and  made  their  assault  from  every  point, 
poariDg  in  volleys  of  musketry,  and 
sending  shell  after  shell  into  the  en- 
trenchments. As  they  approached 
they  were  mowed  down  in  scores  by 
grape,  and  their  leaders  were  picked 
off  by  the  English  riflemen.  As  the 
fire  of  the  enemy  became  more  and 
more  intense,  even  the  wonnded  and  sick 
Bnglish  rose  from  their  couches,  seized 
maskets  and  fired  as  long  as  their 
strength  allowed.  The  mine  the  rebels 
fired  near  the  Redan  did  no  harm  to  that 
battery,  but  they,  supposing  a  breach 
to  have  been  made,  rushed  up  the 
glacis  at  the  double,  with  fixed  bayon- 
ets. Hundreds  were  shot  down ;  but 
their  leader,  waving  his  sword,  on 
which  he  placed  his  cap,  shouted  to 
them  to  come  on.  Again  they  ad- 
Tanced,  but  the  grape  .made  huge  gaps 
m  their  ranks,  and  a  musket  ball  kuled 
fteir  leader.  They  then  retreated, 
leaving  heaps  of  slain  and  wounded. 
At  this  time  a  furious  attack  was  made 
on  Innes's  outpost,  where  Lieut.  Lough- 
nan,  of  the  13th  N.I.,  with  24  English 
soldiers,  12  civilians,  and  25  Sepoys, 
heat  back  a  whole  host  of  rebels,  who 
at  last  slowly  retreated,  carrying  off 
100  of  their  wounded  comrades.  At 
the  Financial  and  Sago's  Posts  the 
eolumn of  rebels  with  the  ereen  standard 
was  after  some  hours'  nard  fighting 
beaten  off,  with  the  loss  of  all  their 
commanders  and  about  60  men.  The 
fight  ended  at  4  p.m. 

Though  beaten  at  all  points,  on  the 
20th  the  enemy  maintamed  a  furious 
cannonade,  and  planted  new  batteries. 
Brigadier  Inglis  assumed  command  on 
the  21st.  Owing  to  the  fire  of  the 
anemy,  the  windows  had  to  be  barri- 
caded, and  even  then  men  were  shot  in 
their  beds.  One  great  torment  was 
the  flies,  which  swarmed  in  incredible 
numbers.  The  ^ound  was  black  with 
them.  The  besieged  could  not  sleep, 
they  could  scarcely  eat  on  account  of 
them.  On  the  26th  a  letter  was  re- 
ceived from  the  Quartermaster-General 
of  Havelock's  force,  tiling  the  besieged 
to  be  of  good  cheer,  for  a  relieving  force 
was  coming  in  large  numBers.  But 
days  passed  and  the  rebels  were  busy 
with  their    mines,   and   but   for  the 


countermining  by  Captain  Fulton  of 
the  Engineers,  the  place  must  have 
fallen. 

On  the  10th  of  August  there  was 
another  general  attack,  but  the  enemy 
showed  little  counuro,  and  they  were 
easily  beaten  off.  On  the  same  day  a 
mine  was  exploded  at  Sago's  garrison, 
and  blew  down  some  out-houses ;  two 
English  soldiers  were  blown  into  the 
air,  but  were  not  killed.  Another 
mine  between  the  Brigade  Mess  and  the 
Cawnpor©  Battery  blew  down  a  stock- 
ade, and  the  enemy  attempted  to  enter, 
but  were  repulsed.  The  8-in.  howitaer 
which  the  rebels  took  at  Ohinhat 
played  on  Innes's  post  with  fatal  effect, 
oringlng  down  beam  after  beam,  and 
makmg  many  breaches.  On  the  11th 
of  August  Major  Anderson,  the  chief 
engineer,  died.  On  the  14th  Captain 
Fulton  exploded  a  mine  under  a  house 
near  Sago's  garrison,  which  was  blown 
up,  and  in  it  were  buried  from  40  to  60 
of  the  enemy.  On  the  18th  the 
Second  Sikh  Square,  garrisoned  by  15 
Christian  drummers  and  musicians, 
and  15  Sikhs,  was  blown  up  by  the 
rebels,  and  buried  7  Christians  and 
2  Sikhs  under  its  ruins.  A  large 
breach  was  made,  and  the  enemy  tried 
to  enter,  but  their  leader  was  killed 
and  they  retired.  Captain  Fulton 
with  a  number  of  volunteers  then 
sallied,  destroyed  a  number  of  houses, 
and  blew  up  the  shaft  of  another  mine 
begun  by  the  rebels. 

On  the  20th  the  house  called  Johan- 
nes's was  blown  up  by  Captain  Fulton, 
killing  60  to  80  of  the  rebels.  Captain 
Fulton  then  headed  a  sally,  and  after 
driving  out  the  insurgents  from  several 
buildings,  blew  them  up.  Lieut. 
Macabe  headed  another  party  and 
spiked  two  guns.  Previous  to  this 
Lieut.  Macabe  of  the  32d  had  attacked 
Johannes's  house,  and  bayoneted  a 
number  of  the  enemy,  who  were  found 
asleep,  and  amongst  them  the  African, 
who  had  picked  off  dozens  of  the  English 
during  the  first  days  of  the  siege,  and 
had  been  christened  by  the  soldiers 
"Bob  the  Nailer."  At  this  time  a 
sergeant  of  the  Bhusa  guard  named 
Jones,  and  10  others,  mostly  native 
Christians,  deserted,  but  were  killed 


244 


ROUTE  16.   8AHARANP0RE  TO  HOOUL  SABAI 


India 


by  the  insurgents.  On  the  29th  of 
August  Angad  the  spy  brought  a  letter 
from  Cawnpore  saying  that  the  relief 
would  take  place  in  three  weeks.  On  the 
5th  of  September  the  rebels  made 
another  attack,  havine  previously  ex- 
ploded three  mines,  ^ey  advanced  to 
the  Brigade  Mess  boldly,  but  were 
driven  back  with  the  loss  of  100  men. 
They  then  attacked  the  Baillie  Guard 
and  several  other  places,  but  were 
similarly  repulsed.  On  the  14th, 
Captain  Fulton  was  killed  at  Gubbins*s 
Battery,  where  a  9-pound  shot  took 
his  head  completely  off.  On  the  2dd 
of  September  a  furious  cannonade 
raged  outside  the  city  from  10  a.ic. 
to  4  P.M.,  and  confirmed  the  news  re- 
ceived the  day  before  that  Outram 
and  Havelock  were  coming  to  relieve 
the  besieged.  On  the  25th  smoke  and 
the  crack  of  musketiy  showed  that 
street-fighting  was  going  on.  The  fire 
advanced  steadily  and  gradually  to- 
wanls  the  entrenchments,  which  were 
finally  reached  on  the  evening  of  that 
day. 

This  relief  was  not,  however,  effected 
withoutmostseriousloss ;  for  700  officers 
and  men  were  killed  and  wounded. 
AmoDff  these  Brigadier -General  Neill 
and  Major  Couper  were  killed,  and 
ten  other  officers  fell,  besides  those  who 
died  of  their  wounds.  At  this  time 
the  houses  were  all  perforated  with 
cannon-shot,  and  the  Cawnpore  Battery 
was  a  mass  of  ruins ;  the  outpost  at 
Innes's  house  roofless  ;  and  out  of  the 
Brigade  Mess  alone  435  cannon-balls 
were  taken.  The  besieged  were  not, 
however,  free.  Those  who  relieved 
chem  had  possession  of  the  Tara  Kothi 
and  the  Farhat  Bakhsh  Palace,  as  also 
the  Ohatr  Manzil  Palace,  which  were 
on  the  river's  side,  and  from  which  the 
enemy's  fire  had  been  most  fatal,  par- 
ticularly from  the  Clock  Tower. 
Though  the  garrison  had  extended 
their  positions,  the  enemy  were  far 
from  abandoning  the  city,  and  Outram 
and  Havelock  with  their  troops  were 
themselves  blockaded.  On  the  26th 
of  September  »  sortie  was  made,  and 
our  men  spiked  two  mortars  and  blew 
up  a  powder  magazine.  Captain  Lowe 
brought  in  as  trophies  an  18-pounder, 


a  9-pounder,  and  five  smaller  gona. 
After  this  the  garrison  frequently  took 
the  offensive  and  captured  several  posi- 
tions. Attempts  were  then  made  to 
open  communications  with  'Alam  Bagb, 
where  the  relieving  force  had  deposited 
their  baggage  and  ammunition,  with  i 
guns  and  300  men  as  an  escort.  Th« 
attempt  failed,  for  an  intervening: 
mosque  was  filled  with  riflemen,  and 
too  strongly  fortified  to  be  taken 
without  very  great  loss.  The  be- 
sieged now  repaired  their  defences, 
and  extended  them  near  Innes's  post) 
by  taking  and  fortifying  a  mound, 
which  be^me  one  of  their  strongest 
positions.  Fighting  went  on  inces- 
santly. Provisions  had  again  beoonw 
scarce.  The  palaces  which  had  hms 
taken  by  our  troops  continued  to  be  tht 
object  of  severe  attacks.  On  the  lOtit 
of  November  Sir  Colin  Campbell  reacbed 
'Alam  Bagh,  and  relieved  the  garrison 
besieged  there.  At  this  time  James 
Eavanagh,  an  uncovenanted  officer  who, 
had  distinguished  himself  in  several 
sorties,  offered  to  carry  despatches  from 
Sir  James  Outram  at  Lucknow  to  Sir 
Colin  Campbell  at  'Alam  Bagh,  and 
owing  to  his  courage  and  address  suo* 
ceeded  in  conveying  them  through  the 
lines  of  the  enemy.  Sir  Colin,  leaving 
his  baggage  in  the  'Alam  Bagh,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Dilkusha,  in  which  move^ 
ment  his  advanced  guard  encountered 
a  heavy  fire,  but  drove  the  rebels  past 
the  Martini^re  College.  On  the  12tli 
an  attack  of  the  rebels  was  repulsed, 
and  on  the  14th  the  rearguard  joined, 
Sir  Colin.  On  the  16th  Sir  Colin's 
whole  force,  except  the  8th,  left  to 
guard  the  Dilkusha,  advanced  against 
the  Sikandara  Bagh.  After  a  desperate 
conflict,  the  4th  Sikhs,  the  93d  High- 
landers, and  the  52d,  broke  into  th« 
entrance,  and  next  day  2000  dead^ 
bodies  of  the  rebels  told  the  result 
While  this  battle  was  raging,  the 
English  suffered  much  from  a  mur-, 
derous  fire  directed  upon  them  from 
the  Shah  Najaf  mosque.  This  place 
was  next  taken  by  Peel's  Naval  Brigada 
and  the  93d.  The  troops  then  rested 
for  the  night,  though  fired  on  cob* 
tinnally  from  the  adjacent  buildings 
On  the  17th  the  Mess-house,  a  laigi, 


ROUTE  16.       LUCKNOW 


245 


two-storied,  flat-roofed  house,  flanked 
by  two  square  turrets,  was  stormed.  To 
keep  up  a  line  of  communication  with 
the  Dilkusha  was  the  next  object, 
and  was  effected  with  some  loss.  The 
enemy  then  made  a  fierce  attack  on 
the  Mess-house  and  the  Highlanders 
in  the  barracks  taken  on  the  16th,  but 
were  repulsed  with  great  loss.  On  the 
afternoon  of  the  17th  of  November 
Sir  Colin  met  Outram  and  Havelock, 
and  the  relief  of  Lucknow  was  finally 
effected.  The  British  loss  was  467 
killed   and    wounded,    of    whom    10 

;  officers  were  killed  and  33  wounded. 
That  evening  Sir  Colin  ordered  the  sick 
and  wounded,  women  and  children,  to 
be  moved  from  the  Residency  to  the 
Dilkusha.  This  was  carried  out  on 
the  22d.  The  enemy  continued  firing 
into  the  old  positions  long  after  they 

:  had  been  abandoned.  On  the  24th  of 
November  General  Havelock  died. 

The  Machchi  Bhawan  and  Great 
Imambarah^  are  N.W.  of  the  Resi- 
dency. This  fort  was  blown  up  on  the 
night  of  the  30th  of  June  1857,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  siege  of  the  Resi- 
dency. It  has  now  been  repaired  and 
extended,  and  includes  the  Great  Imam- 

;  barah.  The  Rumi  Darwazah,  or  Con- 
stantinople Gate,  the  W.  entrance,  is 
laid  to  have  been  built  by  Asafu- 
daalah  in  imitation  of  that  gate  at 
Constantinople  from  which  the  Turkish 
Government  derives  its  name  of  **  Sub- 
lime Porte."  This  gate  is  220  yds.  to 
the  W.  of  the  street  leading  to  the 
Imambarah.  Entering  under  an  arch, 
you  will  find  on  the  rt.  a  large  mosque, 
and  ascend  a  number  of  steps  to  the 
Imambarah,  which  faces  N.,  and  is  said 
to  have  cost  a  million  sterling. 

The  central  or  great  Hall  is  163  ft 
long,  and  63  ft.  broad.  The  ceiling  of 
the  octagonal  room  adjoining  is  hand- 
somely decorated,  but  not  coloured. 
A  perfectly  plain  masonry  slab,  without 
any  inscription,  marks  where  Asafu- 
daulah     was     interred.       From     the 

1  Literally  the  chiefs  (Imam)  enclosure. 
The  word  is  "applied  to  a  building  maintain^ 
\if  Shi'a  communities  in  India  for  the  express 
purpose  of  celebrating  the  Muharram  cere- 
monies" in  commemoration  of  the  martyrdom 
«f  the  Sons  of  Ali  (see  Yule's  Glossary  of 
iit^Uhlndion  Words,  etc) 


terraced  roof  of  the  Imambarah  is  a 
magnificent  view  over  the  city.  The 
Imambarah  was  built  in  1784  A.D.,  the 
year  of  the  great  famine,  to  afford  relief 
to  the  people. 

A  few  yds.  to  the  left  is  an  extensive 
and  oldBaoli,  which  is  veiy  picturesque. 
The  mosque  close  by  has  Fersian  verses 
over  the  door,  with  the  date  1260  A.H. 
=  1834  A.D. 

The  original  Machchi  Bhawan  was 
built  by  the  Shaiks,  called  also  the 
Shahzadahs  or  princes  of  Lucknow, 
about  two  centuries  ago.  All  that  is 
left  of  their  building  is  the  round  earthen 
bastions  on  the  S.  of  the  road.  The 
high  ground  across  the  road  within  the 
fort  surmounted  by  a  small  mosque,  is 
Lakshman  Tila,  where  Lakshman, 
brother  of  Ramchandra,  founded  the 
village  of  Lakshmanpur,  the  first  in- 
habited spot  of  the  city  whence  it 
derives  its  name.  The  mosque  was 
built  by  Aurangzeb. 

J  m.'  W.  of  the  Rumi  Darwazah  is 
the  Jumma  Musjid,  or  principal 
mosque,  the  most  beautiful  building 
in  Lucknow.  Not  far  off  is  the  Htbsaim.- 
cibad  iTnambarah,  built  by  Muhammad 
'Ali  Shah,  1837  A.D.,  as  a  burial-place 
for  himself.  It  consists  of  two  large 
enclosures,  one  of  which  is  at  right 
angles  to  the  other.  This  Iibambarah 
is  small  in  comparison  with  that  in  the 
Machchi  Bhawan,  but  has  some  beauty 
of  execution  and  finish  in  detail.  It 
stands  in  a  large  quadrangle,  which 
has  a  marble  reservoir  of  water  in  the 
centre,  crossed  by  a  fanciful  iron  bridge. 
The  Imambarah  is  filled  mth  mirrors 
and  chandeliers.  The  throne  of  the 
king,  covered  with  beaten  silver,  and 
his  >vife's  divan,  with  solid  silver  sup- 
ports, are  to  be  seen  here.  There  is 
also,  not  far  off,  a  seven-storied  watch- 
tower,  also  commenced  by  Muhammad 
*Ali  Shah,  but  interrupted  by  his 
death. 

The  Iton  Bridge.— This  bridge  over 
the  (roomti  was  brought  from  England 
by  order  of  the  king,  Ghaziu-din 
Haidar.  At  1^  m.  to  the  E.  of  it,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Goomti,  is  the  Tara- 
wall  Kothif  or  Observatory  (lit.  Star 
House),  now  occupied  by  the  Bank  of 
Bengal,  built  by  Nasiru-din  Haida^^ 


246 


BOUTE  16.       SAHARANFORE  TO  MOOITL  BABAI 


' 


The  instruments  disappeared  in  the 
Bebellion.  The  rebel  Maulvi  Ahma- 
du'llah,  of  FVzabad,  made  it  his  head- 
qnarters,  and  the  rebel  council  often 
met  there.  The  space  in  front  of  it, 
between  it  and  the  Kaiser  Bagh,  is 
whero  the  prisoners,  men  and  women, 
sent  in  by  the  Dhauahra  Rajah  on  the 
24th  September  1857,  were  massacred 
on  the  16th  November  1857.  Here, 
opposite  the  door  to  the  Kaiser  Bagh, 
is  the  Orr  Monument,  which  marks  the 
spot  where  the  poor  victims  felL 

The  FUdiat  Bakhsh  Palace  is  next 
to  the  Presidency  to  the  £.  It  was  the 
royal  palace  from  the  time  of  S'aadat 
'AJi  Khan  XL  till  Wajid  'AU  buUt  the 
Kaiser  Bagh.  The  part  which  over- 
looks the  river  was  built  bv  General 
Martin,  and  sold  by  him  to  the  Nawab. 
Thereat  was  built  by  S'aadat  'All  Khan. 
It  is  the  building  referred  to  in  The 
Private  Life  of  an  EasUm  King, 
The  throne-room,  known  as  the  Kasr* 
i-Snltan  or  Lai  Barahdari,  was  set 
apart  for  royal  darbars.  At  the  acces- 
sion of  a  new  king  it  was  the  custom 
for  the  Resident  to  seat  him  on  the 
throne,  and  then  present  him  with  a 
Nazar  or  *' offering."  In  this  room 
the  Badshah  Begam,  after  she  had 
forced  open  the  gate  with  an  elephant, 
endeavoured  to  compel  the  Resident, 
Colonel  Lowe,  to  place  Munna  Jan, 
the  illegitimate  son  of  Nasiru-din 
Haidar,  on  the  throne. 

The  Chatr  Mansil  (Umbrella  House) 
is  £.  of  Residency.  It  was  built  by 
Nasiru-din.  The  best  rooms  are 
now  used  by  the  Uiviled  Service  Club, 
and  for  reunions  and  theatricals. 
During  the  Mutiny  this  building  was 
surrounded  by  a  high  brick  wall,  of 
which  the  rebels  availed  themselves, 
and  during  the  advance  of  Havelock 
it  was  heavily  cannonaded. 

The  N.£.  gate  ot  the  Kaiser 
Bagh,  a  stucco  palace  built  in  1850, 
faces  the  open  space  in  front  of 
the  Observatory.  At  the  entrance 
is  the  tomb  of  S'aadat  'All  Khan 
IL  The  road  through  the  large 
court  leads  across  the  Chini  Bagh 
to  the  Hazrat  Bagh.  There  on  the 
right  hand  is  the  Chandiwali  Barah- 
dari,  which  used  to  be  paved  with 


g 


silver,  and  the  Khaa  Makam 
shah  Manzil,  formerly  the 
deuce  of  the  king.  On  the'lefli 
Ohaulakhi,  built  Dy  *Azima  'llab 
the  royal  barber,  and  sold  to  the  I 
4  lakhs.  Here  resided  the  Qua 
her  chief  ladies.  During  1^  Re  ^ 
she  held  her  court  here,  and  in  t  ^^ 
close  by  our  prisoners  were  b 
weeks.  The  £.  Lakhi  Gate,  so 
from  having  cost  a  lakh,  opens  i 
large  square  of  the  Kaiser  Bagh 
the  buildings  round  which  m 
cupied  by  ladies  of  the  harem, 
the  Great  Fair  was  held  in  Ai 
all  the  people  of  the  city  were 
After  passing  through  the  W. 
Gate,  the  visitor  will  come 
Kaiser  Fasand,  or  **  Caesar's  Pl< 
surmounted  by  a  gilt  semii ' 
hemisphere.  As  the  visitor  ^ 
of  the  Kaiser  Bagh  he  faces  the'^Si 
wazah,  under  wnich  Greneral 
killed,  by  a  discharge  of  gia] 
a  gun  placed  at  the  gate  of  ' 
Bagh.  In  the  Hazratganj  Jt 
passes  the  N.  face  of  the 
is  the  mausoleum  of 
Shah. 

The    Moti   HaJial    includes 
buildings.     The  o^e  properly 
Moti  Mahal  is  at  tlie  K  o' 
closure,  and  was  builv^  by  S'l 
Khan.     It  is  said  it  was  named 
its  dome,  now  destroyed, 
pearl.    The  celebrated  wild< 
took  place  in  the  Shah 
the  fights  between  elephants 
ceroses  were  exhibited  in  fn 
HasAiri  Bagh,  on  the  other  s 
Gk>omti,  and  the  king  and 
watched  them  from  the  verani 
the   Shah   Manzil,   where 
safe. 

The  Shah  Najaf  was  built  by 
din  Haidar,  the  first  King  of 
in  1814,  and  is  now  his  mausoli 
is  situated  about  one-fifth  of  a 
E.  of  the  Moti  Mahal,  and  1 
the  S.  of  the  right  bank  of  the 
It  is  a  white  mosque  of  scant 
compared  with  its  immense 
Inside  it  is  filled  with   Tadyaht 
paper  pageants,  and  small  pictonSj., 
the  different  nawabs  and  kings,  m 
their  favourite  ladies. 


l: 


corTftcMj  ueen  styled  "a  whimsical 
pile,  though  there  is  something  strik- 
"»gm  its  great  central  tower.  There 
are  four  towers  and  a  central  one,  sup- 


Palace,  some  3  miles  from  the  Glijil 
ManriiJ. 

Wmgfield  Park  is  J  m.  to  the  S.  of  tl 
Sikandara  Bagh.    It  is  very  pretty,  an 


i 


848 


ROUTE  16.   SAHARANPORE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


is  adorned  with  many  white  marble 
pavilions  and  statues,  and  has  a  large 
pavilion  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by 
80  acres  of  grounds  and  flower-gardens. 
One  statue  represents  a  man  attacked 
by  a  wolf,  a^d  has  on  it,  "The  first 
Premium  adjudged  to  N.  Read,  by  the 
Society  of  Polite  Arts,  100  guineas,  1761 
A«D."  There  is  said  to  be  a  statue  by 
Canova.  This  park  was  named  after 
Sir  C.  Wingfield,  Chief  Commissioner. 

*Alcum  Bagh. — This  place  is  1^  m. 
S.W.  of  the  Oudh  and  Rohilcund 
railway  station,  and  is  in  a  walled  en- 
closure of  500  sq.  yds.,  and  commands 
the  road  to  Cawnpore,  for  which  reason 
it  was,  chosen  for  Sir  J.  Outram's  posi- 
tion, when,  on  Sir  Colin  Campbell's  re- 
treat with  the  women  and  the  wounded, 
he  was  left  behind  to  keep  the  rebels  in 
check.  ,  It  was  built  by  Waji»l  'Ali  as 
an  occasional  residence  for  a  favourite 
wife.  Here  is  General  Havelock's  tomb, 
surmounted  by  an  obelisk  30  ft.  high, 
with  an  inscription  recording  his  death 
on  the  24th  of  November  1857. 
,  Christ  Chwrch  is  situated  near  the 
Post  Office.  It  is  a  neat  building  with 
a  tower.  The  church  compound  is 
prettily  laid  out  with  many  flowers 
and  creepers.  There  are  a  number  of 
interesting  tablets  on  the  walls.  Those 
in  memory  of  Sir  James  Outram  and 
Sir  H.  I^wrence  deserve  particular 
attention. 

Badshahi  Bagh  is  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Goomti,  and  1100  yds.  from  the 
Residency.  The  mutineers  had  a 
battery  here,  and  from  it  came  the 
shell  which  Mlled  Sir  Henry  Lawrence. 
The  remains  of  aqueducts  and  water- 
works show  that  it  must  have  been  a 
cool  and  delightful  place  before  the 
Mutiny. 

About  3  m.  from  Lucknow  are  the 
Elepharvt  Stables  of  the  Government 
Commissariat  Department,  containing 
at  least  30  flue  animals. 

The  bazaar  is  worth  a  visit.  Remark 
the  silversmiths,  jewellers,  pipe  makers, 
gold  and  silver  wire  drawers,  lace 
weavers,  clay  figure  makera,  etc.  etc. 
The  Nakhas,  or  Bird  Bazaar,  is  specially 
interesting. 

409  m.  Fyzabad  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

[Branph   to   Ajodhya   Ghat,    6    m. 


Thence  to  Hankapar  for  Baraitch  and 
Naipalganj.] 

Fyzabad  is  a  municipality,  the  capital 
of  a  district,  and  the  headquarters  of 
the  Commissioner.  The  city  has  fallen 
into  decay  since  the  death,  in  1816,  of 
Bahu  Begam,  who  resided  here  for 
many  years.  The  pop.  of  Fyzabad  and 
Ajodhya  (see  below)  is  79,000.  There 
are  36  Hindu  temples,  of  which  25 
are  to  Shiva,  10  to  Vishnu,  and  one 
belonging  to  the  Nauak  Shahis.  There 
are  114  mosques  and  one  Imambarah. 
The  Ramnaumi  Fair  is  attended  by 
500,000  pilgrims.  Fyzabad  is  bounded 
to  the  N.  by  the  Gogra  river,  which 
here  divides  into  two  streams,  both 
crossed  by  pontoon  bridges.  The 
Cantonment  lies  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
Indian  city,  at  the  S.W.  comer  of 
which  the  railway  from  Benares  to 
Lucknow  passes. 

The  Mausoleum  of  the  Bahu  Begam 
is  about  1^  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  D.E 
She  was  wife  of  Shuja'u  -  daulah, 
Nawab  of  Oudh,  and  mother  of  Asafa- 
daulah.  It  is  by  far  the  finest 
mausoleum  in  the  province  of  Oudh 
and  its  neighbourhood.  The  cenotaph 
is  of  marble  without  inscription.  The 
total  height  mav  be  taken  at  140  ft 
Tliere  is  a  very  nne  view  from  the  top. 
The  MauBoleum  of  Shuja'u  -  daulah 
is  close  by,  and  is  something  like  the 
Begam's,  but  not  nearly  so  grand  or 
imposing.  At  each  of  the  four  comen 
of  the  building  are  an  oblong  reservoir, 
and  a  square  one.  In  the  centre  space 
on  the  ground  floor  are  three  tomb- 
stones  without  any  writing.  The 
centre  slab  is  that  of  Shuja'u -daulah. 
His  mother's  is  to  the  W.,  and  that  of 
his  son,  Mausur  'Ali,  to  the  R  In  the 
W.  side  of  the  enclosure  is  a  mosque 
at  the  N.  end,  with  an  Imambarah  on 
the  S.  The  place  for  a  tablet  is  seen 
in  the  E.  face  of  the  mosque  wall, 
but  so  carelessly  were  things  done  in 
Oudh  that  it  has  not  been  filled  in, 
and  nowhere  is  there  any  inscription, 
though  the  building  cost  a  vast  sum. 

The  Divisional  Jail  is  only  ^  m.  to 
the  N.W.  of  the  mausoleums;  tiie 
Church,  St.  Andrew's,  about  1  m.  to 
the  N.W.  of  the  D.B.  The  cemetery 
is  a  little  way  to  the  N.  of  it.    The 


ROUTE  16.      FYZABAD— AJODHTA 


249 


CiTil  Station  cantonmentB  and  environs 
are  beantifally  wooded  with  innumer- 
able tamarind,  mango,  and  other  trees. 
The  Museum  is  interesting. 

It  is  a  short  drive  by  Fort  Calcutta, 
whence  will  be  seen  the  bridges  over  the 
Gogra,  to  the  Ghipta  Park,  which  is 
prettily  laid  out.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
park  is  a  temple,  where  they  say  Ram 
disappeared.  The  first  Nawab  of  Oudh, 
S'aadat  'Ali  Khan,  seldom  resided  at 
Fyzabad,  though  it  was  his  nominal 
capital,  nor  did  his  successor  Safdar 
Jang ;  but  in  1776  Shuja'u-daulah, 
who  succeeded,  took  up  his  permanent 
residence  there.  When  defeated  at 
fioxar  he  fled  to  Fyzabad  and  con- 
structed the  lofty  entrenchment  whose 
ramparts  of  rammed  clay  frown  over 
the  Gogra,  and  have  been  rendered 
famous  by  the  oratory  of  Burke  and 
Sheridan.  At  his  death,  in  1775,  his 
widow,  the  Bahu  Begam,  remained  at 
Fyzabad,  while  Asafu-daulah,  the  then 
;  Nawab,  removed  to  Lucknow. 

[6  m.  Ajodhya  sta.,  Sanscrit 
Ayttdhyaf  on  the  banks  of  the  Gogra, 
is  where  the  great  Ram  Chandra  once 
'  reigned.  In  the  Gazetteer  of  Oudk^  vol. 
i.  p.  2,  it  is  said  that  this  town  is  to  the 
Hmdu  what  Mecca  is  to  the  Moham- 
medans and  Jerusalem  to  the  Jews. 
The  ancient  city  is  said  to  have  covered 
■Q  area  of  48  kos,  or  96  m. ,  and  to  have 
been  the  capital  of  Eoshala,  **  the  re- 
splendent," the  country  of  the  Solar 
race  of  kings,  of  whom  Manu  was  the 
first.  Fer^usson  says  that  from  this 
city  Ayiithia,  the  capital  of  Siam,  takes 
its  name.  It  is  doubtful  for  what 
reason  the  Solar  race  dispersed,  but  it 
is  certain  that  on  leaving  Ajodhya  the 
ancestors  of  the  rulers  of  Oodeypore, 
Jodhpur,  and  other  Rajput  cities 
wandered  with  their  followers  over 
India,  until  they  at  last  settled  in 
Bajputana.  For  some  centuries  the 
Buddhists,  under  Asoka  and  his 
successors,  were  supreme.  Yikramajit 
is  said  to  have  restored  Brahmanism, 
and  to  have  traced  the  ancient  city  by 
the  holy  river  Sarju,  which  was  the 
ancient  name  of  the  Gogra,  and  to 
have  indicated  the  shrines  to  which 
pilgrims  still  flock.  Tradition  says 
that  Vikram  ruled  for  80  years,  and 


was  succeeded  by  the  Jogi  Samundra 
Pal,  who  spirited  away  the  Rajah's  soul 
and  entered  his  body.  He  and  his 
successors  ruled  for  643  years.  This 
dynasty  was  succeeded  by  a  Jain 
dynasly,  the  Shri  Bastam  family,  and 
these  again  by  the  Kanauj  dynasty. 
A  copper  grant  of  Jai  Chand,  the  last 
of  the  Eanaig  Rathors,  dated  1187 
▲.D.,  was  found  near  Fyzabad.  This 
date  is  six  years  before  his  death  (see 
As.  Soc.  Joum,  voL  x.  part  i  p.  861). 
Eoshala  was  the  cradle  of  Buadhism, 
for  Shakya  Muni,  its  founder,  was 
bom  at  Eapila,  in  the  Gorakhpur 
district,  and  preached  at  Ajodhya. 
Here,  too,  was  bom  Rikhab  Deo,  of 
Ikshwaku's  royal  race,  who  founded 
the  Jain  faith.  The  Chinese  traveller, 
Hiouen  Thsang  found  at  Ajodhya  20 
Buddhist  monasteries  with  3000  monks. 
According  to  him,  the  celebrated  Tooth- 
bmsh  Tree  of  Buddha  grew  here. 

The  road  from  Fyzabad  cantonment 
to  Ajodhya  (4  m.)  is  excellent,  and 
it  may  be  found  more  convenient  than 
the  railway.  On  entering  Ajodhya, 
turn  to  the  left  up  a  narrow  street  to  a 
place  where  there  are  a  few  shops; 
then  turn  again  to  the  left,  and  ascend 
some  steps,  opposite  Man  Sing's  house, 
to  a  platform,  where  is  the  Janam 
Sthan  Temple.  In  the  sanctum,  the 
door  of  which  has  a  silver  frame,  are 
images  of  Sita  and  Ram.  Ram  has 
a  gleaming  jewel  of  large  size,  which 
looks  like  a  light -coloured  sapphire. 
The  temple  is  an  oblong  of  about 
200  ft.  X 150  ft.  The  walls  are  46  ft. 
high,  and  seem  strong  enough  for  a 
fortress ;  which  justifies  its  name  of 
ManumanGarhf  '^Hanuman's  fortress." 
It  is  also  called  Bamkot,  and  is  said  to 
be  of  Aurangzib's  time.  The  neigh- 
bouring trees  swarm  with  middle-sized 
gray  monkeys  of  grave  demeanour. 

To  the  N.  W.  is  the  temple  of  Kanak 
Bhawan,  or  Sone  Ea  Garh,  with  images 
of  Sita  and  Ram  crowned  with  gold, 
whence  the  name  "Fortress  of  Gold." 
This  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  temple 
here. 

The  Janam  Sthan,  or  place  where 
Ram  Chandra  was  bom,  is  J  m.  W.  of 
the  Hanuman  Garh.  Close  to  the 
door,  and  outside  it,  is  a  Mohammedan 


360 


BOUTE  16.       BAHARANPUR  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


cemetery,  in  which  are  buried  76 
Mohammedans  who  were  killed  in  a 
fight  with  the  Hindus  for  the  possession 
of  the  temple  in  1855.  Up  to  that 
time  both  Hindus  and  Mohammedans 
used  to  worship  in  the  temple.  Since 
British  rule  a  railing  has  been  put  up, 
within  which  the  Mohammedans  pray. 
Outside,  the  Hindus  make  their  offer- 
ings. The  actual  JancMn  Sthan  is  a 
plun  masonry  platform,  just  outside 
the  mosque  or  temple,  but  within  the 
enclosure,  on  the  left-hand  side.  The 
primeval  temple  perished,  but  was  re- 
built by  Yikram,  and  it  was  his  temple 
that  the  Mohanunedans  converted  into 
a  mosque.  Europeans  are  expected  to 
take  off  their  shoes  if  they  enter  the 
building,  which  is  quite  plain,  with  the 
exception  of  twelve  black  pillars  taken 
from  the  old  temple.  On  the  pillar  on 
the  left  of  the  door  on  entering  may  be 
seen  the  remains  of  a  figure  which  ap- 
pears to  be  either  Krishna  or  an  Apsara. 

At  about  i  m.  to  the  N.  of 
Janam  Sthan  is  Swarga  Dwara,  or 
Ram  Ghat,  where  Rama  bathed ;  and 
one-eighth  of  a  mile  to  the  S.  W.  of  it  is 
Lakilunan's  Gthat,  where  Lakshman, 
the  half-brother  of  Rama,  used  to  bathe. 
1  m.  to  the  S.  of  Hanuman  Garh  is  the 
Mam  Parbat,  and  to  its  S.  again  is  the 
Kuver  Parbat  and  Sugriv  Parbatj  hill- 
ocks of  great  antiquity.  The  Blani 
Parbat  Hill  is  65  ft  high,  and  is 
covered  with  broken  bricks  and  blocks 
of  masonry.  The  bricks  are  11  in.  sq. 
and  3  in.  thick.  At  46  ft.  above  the 
ground,  on  the  W.  side,  are  the  remains 
of  a  curved  wall  faced  with  Kankar 
blocks.  To  the  S.,  at  the  distance  of 
500  ft.,  is  the  Euver  Parbat,  28  ft. 
high.  The  history  of  these  mounds  is 
obscure,  and  the  traditions  concerning 
them  are  conflicting.  Cunningham 
supposes  that  the  great  monastery 
described  by  Hiouen  Thsang  is  the 
Sugriv  Parbat,  which  is  560  ft.  long 
by  300  ft.  broad,  and  that  the  Mani 
Parbat  is  the  Stupa  of  Asoka,  built  on 
the  spot  where  Buddha  preached  the 
law  during  his  six  years'  residence  at 
Saketa. 

Near  the  Lakshman  Ghat  is  a  large 
modem  temple,  built  by  the  Rs^ah  of 
Bhriya.    300  yds.  from  this  is  a  hill 


90  ft  high,  with  a  small  Jain  temple 
sacred  to  Adinath.  At  the  Swaiga 
Dwara  are  the  vast  ruins  of  a  mosque, 
with  an  iron  post  21  in.  long  and  6  in. 
broad  and  two  minarets  40  ft.  high. 
They  are  probably  of  the  time  ©f 
Aurangzib.] 

484  m.  JAUNPUR  City  sta.  (R. ),  D.  B. 
(There  are  2  stations  at  Jaunpur— the 
Civil  lanes,  or  Zafarabad  sta.  is  4  ib. 
farther  on. ) 

Jaunpur  is  a  place  of  much  interest, 
and  was  the  capital  of  an  independent 
Mohammedan  kingdom  (the  Sharki 
dynasty)  from  1397-1478,  and  retained 
a  partial  independence  until  finallj 
conquered  by  Akbar.  The  first  thing 
to  be  seen  is  the  famous  Bridge^ 
over  the  Goomti,  erected  by  Akbar. 
It  consists  of  10  spans  besides  those 
standing  on  the  land ;  the  middle 
group  of  4  being  larger  than  the  3  at 
each  end.  It  was  designed  by  'Aftal 
'Ali,  a  Kabttli  architect,  at  the  expense 
of  Munim  Khan,  one  of  Akbar's  hifh 
officers.  It  is  constructed  principally 
of  stone,  and  was  commenced  in  1564 
and  completed  in  1568.  Formerly 
there  were  shops  on  either  side,  but 
these  were  destroyed  during  the  flood 
of  1774.  It  is  said  to  have  cost  ; 
£300,000.  Approaching  it  from  the  | 
Civil  Lines  and  what  was  formerly  ■ 
the  cantonments,  the  traveller  passes 
beneath  the  large  gates  of  the  Sarai, 
on  the  first  of  which  is  recorded 
the  "Flood  Level"  at  this  point  in 
1774  during  the  great  inundation, 
when  most  of  the  minor  houses  were 
swept  away.  The  water  rose  to  a 
height  of  18  ft. 

Some  200  yds.  to  the  N.  after  crossing 
the  bridge,  and  not  far  from  the  Pod 
Ojffice  and  T'ovni  HaM,  is  the  N.  entrance 
of  the  Atala  Mtifijid,  erected  on  the 
site  of  an  old  Hindu  temple  dedicated 
to  the  goddess  Atala  Deri,  which  was 
destroyed  in  Sultan  Ibrahim's  reign 
and  the  materials  used  up  and  converted 
into    a   mosque.      On    the    principal 

1  Some  of  the  piers  and  arches  are  inscribed, 
and  have  been  fully  dealt  with  in  a  volume 
published  by  Fiihrer  and  Smith  of  the  ArchseoL 
Survey  of  India,  entitled  the  Shargi  ArchiJMl- 
ure  ofJawAfur  (Triibner). 


ROUTE  16.       JAUNPUR 


261 


mhrab,  bnilt  of  black  marble,  immedi- 
ately in  the  centre  of  the  main  W.  wall 
of  the  Musjid  proper  in  which  the 
prayers  are  said,  is  a  verse  from  the 
Koran,  and  above  it  the  creed.  The 
facade  is  75  ft.  high.  Almost  in  the 
centre  of  the  large  courtyard  and  to 
the  N.E.  of  the  musallah  or  praying- 
ground  is  a  well  with  a  fine  citron- 
leaved  Indian  fig -tree  {Fuyus  venom). 
At  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  large  square 
is  a  chamber  screened  by  a  lattice  of 
stone,  intended  for  the  women.  Lead- 
ing fh>m  it  to  the  roof  is  a  staircase. 
Behind  the  propylon  screening  the 
dome  from  the  courtyard  and  surround- 
ing 3  sides  of  the  drum  of  the  dome, 


condition,  and  were  probably  destroyed 
by  Sikandar  Lodi.  The  K.  and  a 
entrance  gates  have  been  restored  and 
are  surmounted  by  domes.  In  the 
cloisters  and  walls  many  stones  from 
Hindu  temples  have  been  utilised. 
Its  general  arrangement  resembles  that 
of  the  Atala  and  the  Lai  Darwazah 
Mosques  (see  below),  and  the  fa9ades 
are  not  unlike,  although  the  cloisters 
here  have  8  tiers,  whilst  those  at  the 
Atala  have  only  2.  The  mosque  proper 
is  very  massive,  almost  fort-lite  in  con- 
struction. It  measures  69  ft.  x  235 
ft.,  including  the  thickness  of  the 
walls,  but  not  the  bastions  at  the  an^es. 
It  is  divided  into  5  compartments  on 


West  half  of  Jamma  Mnsjid. 


is  a  chamber  some  11   ft.  high  and 
6  ft.  wide. 

At  the  end  of  a  narrow  lane,  raised 
on  a  platform  some  20  ft.  in  height, 
is  the  splendid  Jomma  Musjid,  built 
by  Husain  Sharki,  commenced  1438, 
finished  1478.  Some  attribute  the 
design  to  Ibrahim,  as  his  family  lie  in 
the  cloistered  court  of  a  building 
adjoining  the  N.  side  of  the  Musjid. 
On  entering  the  S.  gate  the  visitor  will 
notice  on  one  of  the  outer  voussoirs 
of  the  exterior  arch  an  inscription 
(upside  down)  in  Sanscrit  of  the 
8tn  cent.,  another  in  Tughra  charac- 
ters over  the  top  of  the  central  mihrab, 
and  a  third  in  Arabic  characters  around 
the  outer  margin  of  the  arch.  The  N. , 
3.}  and  £),  sides  are  in  a  dilapidated 


the  ground  floor,  and  above  are  2  zenana 
chambers,  one  on  each  side  of  the  grand 
dome,  with  splendid  stone  carved  ceil- 
ings. On  the  £.  side  is  an  immense 
propylon  80  ft.  high  divided  by  string 
courses  into  5  stories. 

N.  of  the  mosque  is  the  burial 
ground  of  the  Shaxki  kings,  the  walls 
of  which  approach  the  N.  wall  of  the 
mosque  within  30  ft.  In  the  quadrangle 
is  the  tomb  of  Ohulam  *Ali  with  a 
fine  Persian  inscription.  In  the  centre, 
beyond  this  tomb,  is  that  of  SuUan 
Ibrahim  Shah,  The  only  inscription 
is  on  a  round  stone  in  the  centre, 
which  has  the  Kalmiah. 

Next  to  the  tomb  of  Ibrahim  is  that 
of  his  son  Sultan  Hashim  Shah,  with 
an  inscription  of  the  date  1569, 


252 


ROUTE  16.      BAHARANPUB  TO  MOGITL  SARAI 


InSia 


The  Fort  of  Feroz,  known  as  the 
Fort  Musjid,  and  the  earliest  building 
in  Jaunpur  of  note,  was  built  about 
1860,  and  was  almost  entirely  con- 
structed firom  ruined  temples.  The 
entrance  gate,  47  ft.  high,  is  covered 
with  kashani  hak,  a  sort  of  blue  and 
yellow  enamelled  bricks,  of  which  beau- 
tiful portions  remain.  The  inner  gate 
has  many  stones  of  Hindu  temples 
built  into  the  walls,  on  some  of  which 
is  carved  a  bell.  At  200  ft  from  this 
^te  is  a  low  mosque,  130  x  22  ft,  divided 
into  8  chambers  by  lateral  walls,  with  a 
reservoir  in  firont,  and  a  remarkable 
Lat,  or  minaTf  apparently  unaltered 
since  its  erection  and  beautifally  in- 
scribed. The  river-face  of  the  Fort  is 
300  ft  beyond  this  pillar.  It  is  150  ft. 
in  perpendicular  height,  and  commands 
a  noble  view  of  the  country  and  city. 
Before  reaching  it  the  visitor  will  see 
a  round  tower  called  the  magazine, 
with  a  hafMnam^  or  bath,  on  the  left 
At  a  market-place  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
bridge  is  a  stone  lion  somewhat  larger 
than  life,  which  was  found  in  the  fort. 
Under  it  is  a  young  elephant,  which 
it  is  supposed  to  have  seized.  From 
this  all  distances  in  the  city  and  pro- 
vince are  calculated.  The  Church 
(Holy  Trinity)  contains  a  tablet  to 
Manton  Collingwood  Ommaney,  B.C.S., 
Judicial  Commissioner  of  Oudh,  who 
rebuilt  it  in  1852,  and  died  at  Lucknow 
during  the  siege.  With  him  are  buried 
his  two  sons. 

Besides  the  mosques  already  men- 
tioned, there  are  six  others :  1.  Mosque 
of  Malik  EhaUs  Mukhlk,  built  on  the 
site  of  the  favourite  temple  of  Vijaya 
Chandra,  which  was  broKen  down  by 
Malik  Ehalis  and  MaUk  Mukhlis,  by 
order  of  Sultan  Ibrahim.  They  built 
this  mosque  in  the  place  of  it  In  one 
3f  the  pillars  is  a  black  stone,  still 
worshipped  by  the  Hindus.  2.  Chachak- 
pur  Mosque,  oalled  Jhanjhri  Musjid, 
on  account  of  the  **  screen-like " 
appearance  of  its  ornamentation,  was 
a  temple  built  by  Jai  Chandra,  and 
converted  by  Ibrahim  into  a  mosque. 
3.  To  the  W.  of  the  city  is  the  Lai 
Darwaiah  Mosque,  so  called  in  memory 
of  the  "high  gate  painted  with  ver- 
milion "    belon^g    to    the    palace 


erected  close  by  at  the  same  time  by 
Bibi  Baji,  Queen  of  Sultan  MuhammaO, 
son  of  Ibrahim.  This  is  the  smallest 
of  the  Jaunpur  mosques.  The  style 
of  architecture  is  the  same  as  that 
of  the  Jumma  and  Atala  Musjids, 
but  the  building  throughout  is  on  a 
less  massive  and  much  lighter  scale. 
The  date  is  uncertain,  though  prob- 
ably the  cloisters  of  the  court  were 
erected  about  1447.  On  the  N.,  S., 
and  E.  sides  of  the  court  are  massive 
gate  entrances.  The  cloisters  are  2 
bays  deep,  and  the  W.  walls  as  well  as 
the  cloisters  are  panelled.  The  columns 
should  be  well  studied  on  account  of 
their  variety :  they  have  once  formed 
part  of  Hindu  fanes.  Some  are  in- 
scribed with  valuable  inscriptions. 
The  propvlon,  the  principal  feature 
of  the  building,  standing  in  the  centre 
of  the  W.  facade  is  48  ft  6  in.  high,  and 
is  wider  at  tne  base  than  the  top.  The 
towers  contain  staircases  leading  to  a 
mezzanine  floor,  on  each  side  of  the 
dome.  The  principal  mihrab  is  of  black 
stone.  On  the  top  of  the  architrave 
is  an  Arabic  inscription.  4.  Mosque  of 
Nawab  Muhsin  Khan.  Sukh  Mandil, 
who  was  the  Biwan  of  Ehan  Zaman 
Ehan,  had  built  a  pagoda  where  this 
mosque  stands,  and  when  Ehan  Zaman 
was  killed  the  building  came  to  Muhsin 
Ehan,  who  was  one  of  Akbar's  courtiers, 
and  he  destroyed  the  pagoda,  and  bailt 
a  mosque.  5.  The  Mosqne  of  Shah 
Eabir,  built  by  Baba  Beg  Jalagar, 
governor  of  Jaunpur  in  Ak&r's  reign, 
in  1583,  in  honour  of  the  saint  Shah 
Eabir.  6.  The  Idgah  Mosque,  built 
by  Sultan  Husain,  and  repaired  in 
Akbar's  reign  by  Ehan  Ehanan.  It 
then  fell  into  a  ruinous  state,  and  was 
deserted  till  restored  by  Mr.  Welland, 

488  m.  Zafarabad  sta.,  for  the  Civil 
Lines  of  Jaunpur. 

520  m.  Benaxes  sta.  (see  Rte.  1). 

530  m.  Mogul  Sarai  junc.  sta.  with 
the  East  Indian  Railway  (see  Rte.  1). 


'  ROUTE  16a.       BABEILLY  JUNCTION  TO  RANIKHET 


253 


EOUTE  16a 

LLY     JUNCrriON    BY    THE 

UND    KuMAON    Railway 
I  Tal,  Almorah,  and 


>p.  238.) 

Iljeepura  junc. 

I  K.  to 


From  here 


nihgodam    (R.)  terminus 

Ijoamey  from  here  to  Naini 

Ifirs. ;  the  distance  is  14  m. 

D.  in  tongas,  the  last  3  ra. 

r  on  ponies.     From  the  rly. 

Qtry  is  flat  for  2  m.  as  far 

t   D.B.      The   road   then 

valley  of  the  Balaya,  amidst 

scenery,   with   waterfalls 

deep    ravines,    to    (11 

Here  are  refreshment- 

here    a  more    circaitons 

f  Rambagh  falls  in,  and  the 

'',  of  the  ghat  (3  m.  to  Naini 

Jiences.      On    the   way  up 

[Dale,"  a  pleasant  halting- 


J,  3^  D.B.,  is  a  favourite  sani- 

he  N.W.  Provinces,  and  the 

sidence  of  the  Lieut. -Gover- 

i  small  military  station.     It 

>ly  picturesque,  and  the  lake 

I  of  its  most  striking  features  ; 

ftvellers  with  a  limited  time 

^       I  it  does  not  possess  the 

\  of  Daijeeling  or  Simla. 

Ice  is  nearly  1  m,  long,  and 

rbroad,  with  an  area  of  120 

be  flood-level  is  6410  fk.  above 

The  depth  ranges  fi-om  5 

kt  the  N.  end  to  15^  in  the 

I  part ;  and  there  are  Sulphur 

\t  the  end  near  the  Convales- 

6t     The  total  area  of  the 

it  is  6^  sq.  m. 

lef  population  is  to  the  N.W. 
Bf  where  are,  close  to  the  lake, 
bly  Booms  with  Library ^  and 
rw'c  Hall^  about  IJ  m.  from  the 
be  Club  about  i  m.  farther, 
I  Office  lying  on  the  way,  and 
rcpecm  shSps.  The  Cricket, 
\  Lawn  Tennis  Cfrounds ;  the 


Bacquet'C(nirtf  Bathing  Sheds,  Billiard 
Booms,  and  Public  Gardens  are  all  near 
the  Assembly  Rooms  on  the  N.W. 
There  are  numerous  Hducational  In- 
stittUions,  including  a  Kindergarten, 
and  Lady  Dufferin  s  Hospital,  opened 
in  1890.  The  highest  peaks  are  to  the 
N.W.,  as  China,  which  is  8668  ft. 
above  sea-level,  Deopathar,  7589  ft,  etc. 

The  Chunxh  of  St.  John  in  the 
Wilderness,  J  m.  beyond  the  Club,  is 
built  of  stone.  It  has  a  roof,  of  dark- 
coloured  wood,  and  has  two  stained- 
glass  windows.  There  is  a  handsome 
brass  under  the  window,  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  communion-table,  in  memory  of 
Cuthbert  Bensley  Thomhill,  C.S.I. 

On  18th  September  1880  a  frightful 
catastrophe  occurred  at  Naini  Tal. 
On  Thursday  the  16th  of  September 
rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  continued  to 
fall  during  FrL  and  Sat.,  when  in  the 
24  hrs.  33  in.  had  fallen.  The  Victoria 
Hotel,  which  stood  about  280  yds.  to 
the  N.  of  the  N.  comer  of  the  lake,  had 
a  lofty  hilrat  its  back.  At  10  o'clock 
on  the  morning  of  Saturday,  the  18th, 
a  slight  landslip  occurred  on  the  spur 
of  the  hill,  behind  the  hotel,  crushing 
in  the  outhouses  and  a  portion  of  the 
rear  of  the  premises,  and  burying 
several  natives  and  one  European  child. 
Assistant- Commissioner  Mr.  Leonard 
Taylor,  with  some  police  and  labourers, 
came  at  once  to  render  assistance,  and 
sent  for  the  military,  who  hastened  to 
the  spot  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Balderstone.  The  work  of  extricating 
the  dead  and  wounded  went  on  tiU 
1.30  P.M.,  when  in  a  moment  the  whole 
precipitous  cliff  overhanging  the  spot 
fell  with  a  tremendous  roar,  burying 
at  once  the  hotel,  the  soldiers,  the* 
assembly  rooms,  library,  orderly  room, 
road,  and  garden.  Almost  every  person 
in  the  buildings  and  grounds  was  en- 
tombed. The  place  shook  as  with  an 
earthquake,  and  the  waters  of  the 
lake  were  driven  to  the  S.  part  of  it  in 
an  immense  wave,  while  vast  clouds 
of  dust  rose  from  the  falling  masses 
like  volumes  of  smoke  after  a  terrible 
explosion. 

There  is  a  pretty  ride  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  lake,  where  the  visitor  may 
ascend  to  a  considerable  height.    Br^ 


ROUTE    18.      DELHI   TO   ALLAHABAD 


267 


4own  from  the  back  of  a  hill  to  a 
valley  in  which  flows  a  tributary  of 
(the  Jumna;  between  the  ridges  N. 
ftud  S.  are  deep  wooded  gorges.  The 
greater  number  of  the  houses  are  built 
«t  an  elevation  of  from  6000  to  7200 
rft,  mainly  on  the  S.  side  of  the  hill. 
iXhe  view  from  Mussoorie  over  the 
/valley  of  the  Dun  and  across  the  Siwalik 
'Hills  to  the  plains  is  very  beautiful,  as 
islao  is  the  view  towards  the  N.,  which 
us  bounded  by  the  peaks  of  the  snowy 
■range.  The  hiUs,  on  the  side  nearest 
■the  plains  exposed  to  the  prevailing 
^'inds,  are  nearly  bare,  and  the  visitor 
misses  the  pine  and  deodar  forests 
whieh  form  so  beautiful  a  feature  at 
•Simla  and  other  Himalayan  sta- 
tions. 

To  the  IS.,  however,  not  fax  below 
the  ridge,  trees  are  plentiful.  They 
are  principally  oak,  rhododendron,  and 
fir.  In  sheltered  places  apricots, 
apples,  pears,  and  cherries  flourish, 
together  with  many  £nglish  annual 
and  perennial  plants.  The  climate  is 
delightful.  Towards  the  end  of  Novem- 
ber snow  falls,  and  from  time  to  time 
during  the  succeeding  three  months. 

Lamdawrif  is  a  littie  to  the  S.E.  of 
Mussoorie,  connected  with  it  by  a 
narrow  spur  from  20  to  30  yds.  in 
breadth,  with  a  sheer  precipice  of  from 
80  to  100  ft.  on  either  side.  It  is  200 
yds.  long,  and  rises  rather  abruptly  to 
the  Lanaour  hill,  the  highest  point  of 
which  is  about  900  ft.  above  the  average 
of  the  Mussoorie  ridge. 

The  houses  and  barracks  at  Landour 
are  built  upon  the  ascending  slope  of 
the  spur,  and  upon  the  precipitous 
slopes  of  the  ridge.  The  biuiacks  face 
the  S.  The  very  limited  area  of  Lan- 
dour is  no  small  disadvantage. 
Slight  attacks  of  fever  occur  both  at 
Mussoorie  and  Landour,  but  very 
serious  cases  of  jungle  fever  happen  to 
Europeans  who  venture  on  shooting 
expeditions  into  the  valleys.  There 
is  a  permanent  Anglo-Indian  popu- 
lation at  Landour  and  Mussoorie, 
and  a  large  influx  of  visitors  during 
the  hot  season.  English  and  Roman 
Catholic  churches  exist  at  both  places, 
with  numerous  schools  and  bofuding- 
houses,   and    at    Mussoorie   a   public 


library,  masonic  lodge,  olub,  brewery, 
and  three  banks. 

There  is  a  good  road  to  Simla  via 
Chakrata.  The  accommodation  on  the 
way  is  scant.  Tents,  food,  and  servants 
should  be  taken.  The  places  on  the 
road  are  as  follows : — 

15  m.  Lakvxtr,  D.  B. 

11  m.  Namghat,  D.B. 

21  m.  Chakrata,  D.B.,  a  military 
hill -station  7000  ft  above  the  sea  in 
the  centre  of  the  district  of  Dhera 
Dun  called  Jaunsar  Bawar.  It  is  77 
m.  from  Saharanpore,  with  which  it 
is  conneoted  by  a  cart-road.  This 
station  was  founded  in  May  1866. 
There  are  lines  for  a  European  regiment, 
and  a  native  town  has  gathered  round 
the  cantonment.  Large  game  shooting 
can  be  had  by  those  who  can  climb. 

15  m.   K<mip(mi,  Forest  Bungalow. 

21  m.  MavttdroU,  water  and  good 
camping-ground  ;  9  m.  Mwnddl,  D.B.  ; 
12  UL  Peomireey  water  and  few  supplies. 
10  m.  Chepdl,  water  and  few  supplies. 
Gross  Pationalla  mt  (9368  ft.),  23  m. 
Sy^i  water  and  supplies ;  8  m.  Fegu, 
D.B. ;  12  m.  SvnOa  (sae  Bte.  11). 


ROUTE  18 

Delhi  to  Tundla  Jtjno.  for  Aoba, 
Cawnpore,  and  Allahabad,  by 
THE  East  Indian  Railway. 

From  Delhi  12  m.  Ohaiiabad  June, 
sta.  From  here  the  North -Western 
Railway  runs  N.  to  Meerut,  Umballa, 
and  Peshawar  (see  Rte,  11a). 


78  m.  ATJftARH  June  sta.  (R.),  D.B., 
between  the  civil  sta.  and  the  city.    A 

S 


256 


ROUTE  17.       LHAKSAR  JUNCTION  TO  HARDWAR,  ETC. 


hdk 


and  two  flying  figures.    On  the  pedestal 
is  a  wheel  with  a  lion  on  either  side. 

Gangadivara  is  celebrated  in  the 
Paranas  as  the  scene  of  Daksha's 
sacrifice,  to  which  he  neglected  to  in- 
vite Shiva,  the  husband  of  his  daughter 
Sati.  Sati  attended  the  sacrifice  in 
spite  of  Shiva's  warning  not  to  do  so, 
and  was  so  shocked  at  her  father's 
disrespect  that  she  went  to  the  bank 
of  the  Ganges  and  by  her  own  splen- 
dour consumed  her  body.  Enraged  at 
Sati's  death,  Shiva  produced  Vira- 
Bhadra,  who  cut  off  Daksha's  head 
and  threw  it  in  the  fire.  Shiva  restored 
Daksha  to  life,  but  as  his  head  had 
been  consumed,  replaced  it  with  that  of 
a  goat  or  ram.  The  spot  where  Daksha 
is  supposed  to  have  prepared  his  sacri- 
fice IS  now  marked  by  the  Temple  of 
Daks^ieshwara,  a  form  of  Shiva.  It  is 
at  the  S.  end  of  Eankhal,  2^  m.  below 
the  bathing  ghcut.  Around  the  temple 
are  several  smaller  ones,  of  no  interest.] 

Retumine  to  Lhaksar,  the  line  con- 
tinues N.W.  to 

11  m.  Boorkee  sta.,  D.6.  (see  p.  287). 

33  m.  Saliaranpore  sta.  (see  p.  194). 
There  is  a  good  carriage  road  from 
here  to  Dehra  Dun  (42  m. ) ;  6  m. 
farther  at  Rajpore,  3^  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  the  carriage  must  be  abandoned 
for  jhampan,  dandy,  or  pony.  An 
ascent  of  about  4  m.  brings  the  traveller 
to  Mussoorie. 

There  are  D.Bs.  at  the  following  places 
en  rovie'.  15  m.  Futtehpore ;  28  m. 
Mohun  ;  35  m.  Assaroree  ;  42  m.  Dehra 
Dun ;  48  m.  Rajpore.  The  journey 
from  Saharanpore  to  Mussoorie  occupies 
13  hrs. 

Dehra  Dun  (or  Doon)  D.B.,  is  the 
capital  of  the  Dehra  Dun  district. 
Dehra  itself  (19,000  inhab.)  is  prettily 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  mountain 
valley,  2300  ft.  above  sea-level.  It  was 
founded  by  Guru  Ram  Rai,  who  settled 
in  the  Dun  at  the  end  of  the  17th 
century.  His  temple,  in  the  style  of 
the  mausoleum  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir 
at  Shah  Dera,  forms  the  chief  ornament 
of  the  town.  To  the  W.  is  the  canton- 
ment. There  are  an  English  church,  a 
mission  of  the  American  Presbyterian 
Church,  and  various  chapels. 

la  the  earliest  ages  of  Hindu  legend 


Dehra  Dun  formed  part  of  a  region 
known  as  Eedarkhand,  the  abode  of 
Shiva  from  whom  also  the  Siwalik 
Hills  are  called.  Here  Rama  and  his 
brother  are  said  to  have  done  penance 
for  killing  Ravana,  and  here  the  fiye 
Pandus  stopped  on  their  way  to  the 
snowy  range  where  they  immolated 
themselves.  Authentic  history  knows 
nothing  of  Dehra  till  the  17th  cen- 
tury. Ram  Rai,  who  was  driven  from 
the  Pan  jab  and  the  Guruship  on  account 
of  doubts  as  to  his  legitimacy,  fonrded 
Dehra.  In  1757  I^ajibu  Dankh, 
Governor  of  Saharanpore,  occupied  the 
Dun,  but  he  died  in  1770,  when  the 
country  was  swept  by  various  invaders. 
Last  of  all  came  the  Gurkhas,  with 
whom  the  British  went  to  war  in 
November  1814.  At  the  end  of  1815 
the  Gurkhas  ceded  the  country  to  the 
British,  who  had  easily  occupied 
Dehra,  and  taken  the  strong  hill 
fortress  of  Ealanga  after  a  gallant 
defence,  in  which  Sir  Rolo  Gillespie, 
a  gallant  soldier  who  suppressed  the 
mutiny  at  Vellore,  was  killed.  There 
is  a  monument  to  the  slain  a  short 
distance  from  Dehra.  Those  of  the 
garrison  who  survived  entered  the 
service  of  Ranjit,  and  died  to  a  man 
in  battle  with  the  Afghans.  It  is  prob- 
able that  the  inhabitants  have  trebled 
since  the  introduction  of  British  rale. 
The  climate  of  Dehra  is  excellent. 

The  approach  to  Mussoorie  from  Dehra 
is  by  Rajporeif.  (6  m.),  a  large  native 
village,  and  at  an  elevation  of  abont 
3000  ft.  The  road  from  Rajpore  to 
Mussoorie  is  very  steep. 

About  half-way  up  is  Jarapani, 
a  halting-place  where  there  is  water 
and  a  bazaar ;  and  here,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  6000  ft.,  are  the  first  houses  of 
the  European  residents. 

4  m.  Mussoorie,  39c  a  hill  station, 
and  Lcmdour,  the  adjacent  Convalescent 
Dep6t  for  British  troops,  are  situated 
upon  one  of  the  outer  ranges  of  the 
Himalayas,  which  lie  to  the  N.  of  Dehn 
Dun.  The  hill  on  which  Mussoorie  i? 
built  rises  from  the  plains  in  the  form  of 
a  horse-shoe,  gradually  ascending  to  the 
centre,  and  enclosing  in  the  hollow  1 
number  of  ridges  which  lose  themselvtf 
in  the  mass  above.     Ridges  also  mo 


— 

^ 

1 

-    /S 

^>v     ^ 

r^/     ^ 

J^ 

^S^-i^^^^^'^Tj/T''-^ 

/Trir^^*^^^      -^ 

fe 

1  ^vT^^tAi^^^^""'^^^^^^''^ 

/ 

Cq 

^^^jfcVrtrWb..  ly^-^\,  |l(.  ^^^^^ 

1 

^   I //2 

1. 1 

2.  . 
3. 
4. 

^  "^Js^^^*^*^"'^ 

S.  i 
7. 

^riJJH^ 

W^y      X.\       vj                N    .Armghatymaga 

fl. 

\     ^\,       F^    ^^^^^*^''^:^t;\ 

j 

i2.  . 
13.  1 

X!^^  ■     J 

: 

1^  , 

/5.  , 

/«.  , 

11. 

18. 

19. 

20. 

/^  *s| 

i^'S^ 

s 

^^  1 

jdh 

.Hrf- 

960 


ROUTE  18.      MELHI  TO  ATiTtAHARAD 


Induui  Railway  ia  here  crossed  by  the 
Cawnpore- Achnera  line  of  the  Bombay, 
Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway. 
From  this  junction  MvHra,  and  Bm- 
drahan  (Rte.  10)  may  easily  be  visited. 
The  thriving  town  of  Hathras  is  6 
m.  from  the  sta.  It  possesses  a  large 
tank  and  a  municipal  building  for  the 
benefit  of  officers  on  tour. 

127  m.Tii]idla  June.  (R.)  A  line  from 
here  runs  W.  into  Agra  (p.  167),  dis- 
tant 15  m. 

184  m.  EtawaJli  sta.  3^  (R.),  D.B., 
properly  Jtavjoh,  from  /«<,  "  a  brick  " 
(85,000  inhabitants),  has  been  the 
headquarters  of  the  district  of  the  same 
name  since  1856,  before  which  Patiala 
and  Sirhpura  held  the  place  succes- 
sively. It  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
about  five  centuries  ago  by  Sangram 
Sing,  a  Chauhan  chie^  descended  from 
the  famous  Prithi  Raj,  King  of 
Delhi 

The  OUy  stands  picturesquely 
amongst  a  network  of  ravines  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  Jumna,  at  a  point 
where  it  bends  sharply  backwards  on  its 
own  course,  and  between  the  river  and 
the  rly.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts, 
a  ravine  from  N.W.  to  S.£.  separating 
the  old  city  on  the  S.  from  the  new. 
The  roads  from  Mainpuri  unite  outside 
the  new  city  to  the  N.W.  and  form 
the  Bazaar^  which  in  the  centre  is 
cut  at  right  angles  by  the  main  road 
from  Farrnkhabad  to  Gwalior  that 
traverses  Etawah  from  N.E.  to  S.W. 
In  the  centre  of  the  city  is  Hutm  Qwnjy 
a  public  square  where  the  com  and 
cotton-markets  are  held ;  and  adjoining 
it  is  a  Bwrai  with  a  fine  gateway.  Half 
a  mile  of  broken  country  extends 
between  the  city  and  the  river  to  the 
S.  On  the  W.  is  a  barren  plain  with 
wildly  rugged  ravines,  and  j^  m.  to  the 
N.  lies  the  Oiml  Station^  with  church, 
public  garden,  racket  court,  etc. ;  it  is 
well  planted  with  trees,  and  there  is  a 
belt  of  dark  woods  on  the  N.  and  E. 
sides.  In  a  grove  to  the  W.  is  the 
AgtJtaXay  an  important  Hindu  temple  of 
the  last  century. 

The  Jvmvma  Mttsfid,  on  high  ground 
to  the  rt.  of  the  Gwalior  Road  going 


towards  the  Jnmna,  is  an  old 
temple,  altered  by  the  Moiiaminedaai 
abont  1430  A.D.  AccardoBf  to  Jbi 
Hume,  it  dates  from  ih.e  5th  centoz 
A.D.  (see  As.  Soc.  Jtnum.  toI.  zxxf 
The  screen,  47  ft.  high,  before  the  dom 
is  similar  to  that  of  the  Atala  ai 
Jumma  Muqids  of  Jaunpur.  The  fa9a^ 
is  130  ft.  long,  but  oiUy  20  ft  dee| 
The  main  portion  is  of  block  karnkOi 
witii  -  fragments  of  bltie-atone  in  tl 
walls,  and  with  portions  of  ten  gnnij 
columns.  There  are  also  plain  pilUi 
of  light  and  red  sandstone  ;  some  hai 
been  cut  in  two,  and  used  for  varioi 
purposes. 

1  m.  from  the  mosque  the  ruins  < 
the  Forti  built  by  Samarsi  about  lU 
A.D.,  stand  on  an  eminence  about  IQ 
fL  above  the  river.  A  comparativelj^ 
modem  and  plain  building — ^the  Barali- 
dari-~crowns  the  hill,  and  commands 
a  fine  view  over  the  Jumna  to  the  & 
The  S.  face  of  the  fort  is  the  most  per- 
fect, with  a  bastion  33  ft.  high,  and 
another  24^  ft.  The  Dutdi  traveller 
Johannes  de  Laet,  in  1631,  says :  "It 
is  surrounded  by  a  double  -wall.  Qu 
its  gate  a  human  £ace  is  sculptured, 
which  the  Indians  regard  with  awe, 
and  worship  it  by  anointing  it  profusely 
with  oil."  The  remains  of  the  gate 
are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  side  of  the 
hill.  The  well  in  it  is  120  ft  deep. 
The  fort  was  destroyed  by  order  of 
Shuja'u  Daulah. 

Tiie  BaMng  Qhats  on  the  Jumna 
just  below  the  fort  and  alone  the  banks 
are  picturesc[ue  and  woroi  a  visit 
From  them  will  be  seen  the  conspicuous 
white  apvre  of  a  modem  «7aiji  temple, 

271  m.  CaWNFOKB  June  sta.^ 
The  junction  of  four  railways— East 
Indian  ;  Cawnpore  Achnera  ;  Cawn- 
pore Lucknow  ;  Indian  Midland.  Com- 
fortable and  convenient  waiting-rooms, 
and  carriages  easily  obtained. 

The  City  (pop.  182,000)  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Granges ;  old 
Cawnpore  is  2  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
present  city.  The  name  means  City 
of  Eanh  or  Krishna ;  Ednh  meaning 
'^ husband."  It  is  a  great  emporium 
for  harness,  shoes,  and  other  leather- 
work.    The  sole  interest  attaching  to 


J       N       G       E       S 


.*.'-**' 


iV,jkls 


"CojSSxf 


ROUTB    18.       CAWNPORE 


261 


the  place    arises    from   the  frightful 
massacres  of  the  Mutiny. 

The  Mutiny.^ 

The  cantonment  at  the  time  of  the 
Mutiny  straggled  for  6  or  7  m.,  and 
though  containing  an  usually  large 
non-combatant  population,  was  impru- 
dently garrisoned  with  about  3000 
Indian  soldiers  and  only  60  Europeans. 
The  Nana  Sahib,  the  adopted  son  of 
Baji  Rao  Peshwa,  whose  claims  to  suc- 
ceed to  the  large  pension  enjoyed  by 
the  ex-Peshwa  had  been  ignored  by  the 
British  Goyemment,  was  living  near 
at  Bithur,  on  friendly  terms  with  the 
English  at  Cawnpore. 

Sir  Hugh  Wheeler,  a  gallant  veteran, 
the  general  commanding  the  division 
in  the  spring  of  1857,  doubting  the 
fidelity  of  the  Sepoys,  resolved  to  store 
with  provisions  one  spot  which  should 
he  a  rallying  point  for  those  under  his 
charge.  The  natural  position  to  select 
was  the  magazine  in  the  N.W.  corner 
of  the  military  lines,  which  rested  on 
the  river,  and  was  surrounded  by 
strong  walls.  But  Wheeler  decided 
against  it,  as  he  would  have  to  with- 
draw the  Sepoy  guard,  and  feared  that 
by  showing  his  mistrust  he  would 
hasten  the  rising.  The  spot  he  chose 
was  the  centre  of  a  plain  where  there 
were  two  barracks.  .  Here  he  raised 
some  earthworks  about  4  ft.  high,  the 
ground  being  so  hard  that  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  dig  it,  and  so  friable,  that 
when  dug,  it  would  not  cohere.  He 
applied  to  Sir  H.  Lawrence  for  rein- 
forcements, which  were  generously  sent 
under  Lieut.  Ashe,  and  with  Captain 
Fletcher  Hayes,  military  secretary,  a 
man  of  rare  courage  and  capacity. 
Wheeler,  much  against  advice,  asked 
Kana  to  lend  a  body  of  his  own  retainers 
for  the  defence  of  the  Treasury  and  the 
Magazine.  The  same  day  (22d  May)  all 
the  non-combatants  betook  themselves 
to  the  miserable  entrenchment,  which 
the  worst  rider  on  the  worst  horse  could 
have  jumped  over.  On  the  3d  June 
Wheeler  most  unselfishly  despatched 

^  For  a  graphic  acconnt  of  the  siege  of 
Cawnpore,  the  traveller  cannot  do  better  than 
■tadv  T.  R.  E.  Holmes's  History  cftM  Indian 
Mviiny,  Allen  and  Go. 


reinforcements  to  Lucknow,  knowing 
that,  in  case  of  attack,  his  own  position 
was  not  defensible. 

On  the  night  of  the  4th  of  June  the 
2d  Cavalry  rose  and  galloped  off  to 
Nawabganj,  where  the  treasure  was. 
The  1st  Regiment  N.I.  followed  them, 
and  burned  and  plundered  as  they 
went.  They  sacked  the  Treasury, 
threw  open  the  Jail,  burned  the  Public 
Offices  and  the  Records,  and  captured 
the  Magazine  with  all  its  ammunition 
and  artillery,  with  which  they  prepared 
to  march  to  Delhi.  The  53d  and  66th 
eventually  joined  them,  all  but  80  men, 
who  remained  faithful  to  the  end  of  their 
lives.  The  whole  body  of  mutineers 
then  started  on  the  march  to  Delhi, 
but  were  persuaded  by  Nana's  emissary 
to  return,  and  on  6th  June  Wheeler 
was  warned  by  the  Nana  to  expect  an 
attack ;  and  by  noon  the  siege  of 
Cawnpore  had  begun. 

Never  had  a  besieged  garrison  been 
called  upon  to  do  greater  things  than 
this  little  body  of  about  300  English 
soldiers,  hampered  by  every  disadvan- 
tage and  exposed  to  the  continuous  fire 
of  3000  trained  soldiers,  well  fed, 
lodged,  and  armed.  The  total  number 
in  the  entrenchment  is  estimated  at 
1000,  of  whom  more  than  half  were 
women  and  children.  .There  were 
heroes  in  this  little  band  of  whom  any 
nation  would  be  proud.  To  Captain 
Moore  of  the  82d  has  by  common 
consent  been  assigned  the  first  place  in 
these  ranks.  There  was  only  one  well 
within  the  entrenchment,  reached  by 
passing  over  the  most  exposed  portion 
of  the  position.  Before  long  provisions 
were  scarce,  and  the  barracks  contain- 
ing stores  and  surgical  instruments 
caught  fire  on  18th  June.  From  the 
first  day  the  casualties  were  consider- 
able and  at  dead  of  night  the  bodies 
were  carried  to  a  well  outside  the  en- 
closure and  let  down.  Over  250  were 
disposed  of  in  this  way  in  three  weeks. 
On  the  23d  of  June  the  enemy  made 
a  general  attack,  but  were  repulsed  at 
all  points.  On  the  25th  a  slip  of  paper 
was  brought  by  a  woman  into  the 
entrenchments  offering  a  safe  passage  to 
Allahabad  to  all  not  ''connected  with 
the  acts  of  Lord  Dalhousie."    On  tb^ 


262 


BOUTB  18.      DBLHI  TO  ALLAHABAD 


Indk 


26th  there  was  an  armistice,  and  it  was 
proposed  that  the  British  should  sur- 
render their  fortified  position,  their 
guns,  and  treasure,  and  should  march 
out  with  their  arms,  and  60  rounds  of 
ammunition  for  each  man.  The  Nana 
would  give  them  safe  conduct  to  the 
river -side,  and  supply  boats  to  take 
them  down  the  Ganges.  This  was 
agreed  to,  and  next  morning,  27th 
June,  the  survivors,  about  450  in  num- 
ber, marched  down  to  the  Sati  Chaura 
Ghat,  and  got  into  the  boats.  It  was 
9  A.M.  before  they  were  embarked,  and 
then  a  bugle  sounded,  the  native  boat- 
men left  the  boats  fixed  in  the  mud, 
and  a  murderous  fire  of  grape-shot  and 
musketry  opened  upon  the  wretched 
passengers,  who  had  thus  been  brought 
to  the  shambles.  The  thatch  of  the 
boats  took  fire,  and  the  sick  and 
wounded  were  burned,  while  the  Sepoys 
jumped  into  the  water  and  butchered 
the  rest.  Orders  then  came  from  the 
Nana  to  kill  no  more  women,  and 
about  125  women,  wounded  and  half- 
drowned,  were  then  carried  back  to 
Cawnpore. 

One  boat  drifted  down  the  river. 
Those  on  board  propelled  it  as  they 
could,  but  their  numbers  were  rapidly 
diminished  by  the  fire  from  the  banks. 
For  36  hours  they  floated  down  stream 
pursued  and  attacked  by  the  enemy  on 
all  sides.  On  the  second  morning  they 
woke  to  find  themselves  in  a  side  stream 
with  Sepoys  on  the  banks  ready  to  over- 
whelm them.  Two  ofificers  and  11 
soldiers  gallantly  leapt  ashore  and  dis- 
persed the  astounded  crowd.  But  the 
boat  had  drifted  down  stream  out  of 
sight  and  was  lost  to  them.  Four  of 
these  men — Mowbray  Thomson,  Dela- 
fosse,  Privates  Murphy  and  Sullivan 
— ^being  strong  swimmers,  reached  the 
Oudh  snore,  and  alone  lived  to  tell  the 
story  of  Cawnpore.  The  boat  was  sub- 
sequently overtaken  by  the  enemy  and 
brought  back.  The  men  were  then  by 
order  of  the  Nana  all  shot,  and  the 
women  and  children  sent  to  join  the  125 
who  had  been  spared  at  the  Massacre 
Ghat.  They  were  afterwards  removed 
to  a  small  house  called  Bibi-garh, 
where,  between  the  7th  and  14th  of 
July,  28  died. 


But  retribution  was  at  hand.  On 
the  7th  of  July  Gen.  Havelock 
marched  from  Allahabad  with  1400 
British  and  600  Sikhs.  On  the  12th  of 
July  at  7  A.M.  they  halted  at  Belindah, 
4  m.  from  Fatehpur.  Here  they  were 
attacked  by  the  Nana's  army,  but  it 
suffered  a  crushing  defeat,  and  Fatehpur, 
where  great  atrocities  had  been  com- 
mitted by  the  rebels,  was  sacked  by 
Havelock's  men.  On  the  15  th  of  July 
Havelock  again  defeated  the  rebels  and 
drove  them  over  the  bridge  across  the 
Pandunadi.  The  Nana  was  living 
riotously  in  a  palace  over  the  prison, 
and  learning  that  Havelock  was  ad- 
vancing upon  him,  issued  an  order  to 
massacre  tiie  women  and  children  in 
the  Bibi-garh.  The  few  men  among 
the  prisoners  were  brought  out  and 
killed  in  lus  presence.  A  party  of 
Sepoys  were  then  ordered  to  shoot  the 
women,  but  they  intentionally  missed 
their  aim.  Then  a  party  of  butchers 
were  sent  in  with  swords  and  long 
knives.  Soon  the  shrieks  ceased,  bat 
groans  continued  all  through  the  night 
In  the  morning  the  dead  and  dying, 
and  a  few  children  almost  unhurt, 
were  pitched  into  an  adjoining  well. 

The  Nana  then  went  out  to  oppose 
Havelock  with  5000  men  and  a  formid- 
able train  of  artillery,  but  the  battle 
(16th  of  July)  ended  in  the  confused 
flight  of  the  rebels.  On  the  17th  Have* 
lock  marched  on  to  occupy  the  canton- 
ment, but  ere  he  reached  it  he  learned 
the  mournful  story  of  the  massacres. 

Four  months  later  Cawnpore  was 
the  scene,  once  more,  of  bloody  engage- 
ments. Sir  Colin  Campbell  marched 
thence  on  the  9th  of  November  1857 
to  relieve  Lucknow,  leaving  behind  him 
for  the  protection  of  Cawnpore,  his  base 
of  operations,  500  British  and  500 
Madras  troops,  commanded  by  Major- 
Gen.  Windham,  of  Redan  celebrity. 
On  the  27th  of  November  Sir  Cohn 
began  his  march  back  to  Cawnpore, 
having  with  him  2000  women,  children, 
sick,  and  wounded,  and  the  treasure 
which  had  been  rescued  from  Lucknow. 
On  nearing  the  Bridge  of  Boats,  on  the 
28th,  Sir  Colin  saw  -a  conflagration, 
which  proved  that  the  enemy  had 
taken  the  city  of  Cawnpore. 


ROUTE  18.       SIGHTS  OF  CAWNPORE 


263 


Tantia  Topi,  at  the  head  of  the 
Gwalior  insurgents,  about  15,000  men, 
had  marched  on  Cawnpore,  and  by 
well -concerted  movements,  completed 
on  the  19th  of  November,  had  cut  off 
Cawnpore  from  all  communication  with 
the  W.  and  N.W.,  from  which  its  sup- 
plies had  been  obtained.^  On  the  26th 
Windham  moved  out  from  Cawnpore, 
attacked  and  repulsed  Tantia*s  right 
wing.  But  on  the  two  following  days 
he  was  gradually  driven  back  to  his 
entrenchment  on  the  river  side,  leaving 
the  bridge-^the  link  with  Lucknow 
—  dangerously  exposed.  Sir  Colin 
arrived  just  in  time  to  save  the  bridge, 
but  the  clothing  and  stores  prepared 
for  the  refugees  from  Lucknow  fell 
into  the  hand^  of  the  rebels.  Having 
despatched  his  convoy  of  ladies  and 
wounded  to  Allahabad,  Sir  Colin  on 
December  6th  took  the  initiative.  His 
arrangements  for  the  battle  were  most 
skilful  and  completely  successful ;  the 
Gwalior  camp,  with  all  its  stores  and 
magazines,  was  taken,  and  the  enemy 
routed  with  great  slaughter. 

Objects  of  Interest. 

On  the  way  from  the  rly.  sta.  to 
the  Memorial  Church  an  enclosure  is 
passed  containing  some  interesting 
monuments  and  heartrending  inscrip- 
tions. 

The  Memorial  CJiurck  is  built  in  the 
Romanesque  style,  it  cost  over  £20,000, 
and  was  consecrated  in  1 875.  It  adj oins 
the  site  of  General  Wheeler's  entrench- 
ment, and  contains  a  series  of  inscrip- 
tions to  those  who  fell  near  here  in  the 
Mutiny.  The  best  view  of  Cawnpore 
is  obtained  from  the  belfry.  To  the 
S.W.  is  seen  amons  the  trees  the  Savada 
Kothi,  where  the  fugitives  from  Fateh- 

firh  were  killed  by  the  Nana's  order. 
0  the  W.  is  the  Railway  Station  ;  to 
the  N.  of  it  the  Government  Steam 
Flour  Mills  ;  N".  of  these,  again,  is  the 
city,  marked  by  numerous  white  pagodas 
and  minarets  in  this  direction ;  and 
N.W.  of  the  church  is  Christchurch, 
the  church  of  the  Civil  lines ;  due  N. 
is  the  Memorial  School,  not  far  from  the 
bank  of  the  Ganges  ;  and  in  the  same 

I.  For  graphic  acconnts  of  this  period  see 
Swo  I  wm  the  Victoria  Cross.— Kavanagh. 


direction,  but  nearer,  is  the  Methodist 
Church.  N.E.,  about  260  yds.  from 
the  Memorial  Church,  is  the  old  church, 
a  small  ugly  building,  and  S.E.  of  it  are 
the  Artillery  Lines ;  the  N.  I.  Lines  are 
due  S.  of  the  church.  Outside  the 
Church  is  a  railed  memorial  slab  with 
an  inscription  commemorating  "those 
who  were  the  first  to  meet  their  death, " 
June  1857.  A  few  yards  from  the  porch 
of  the  Church  is  another  enclosure  with 
a  cross  marking  where 

"  Lie  the  remains  of 

Major  Edward  Vibabt, 

2d  Regt.   Light  Cavalry, 

And  about  70  officers  and  soldiers, 

Who,  after  escaping  from  the 

Massacre  at  Cawnpore, 

On  the  27th  of  June  1867, 

Were  captured  by  the  rebels  at  Shivrtypnr, 

And  murdered  on  the  Ist  of  July. 

Beyond  this,  on  the  S.  of  the  Church, 
is  the  site  of  the  Entrenchment  where 
Wheeler  with  his  small  band  of  soldiers 
and  the  European  and  Eurasian  resi- 
dents for  21  (lays  were  exposed  to  the 
cruel  fire  of  Nana's  troops .  It  is  a  mere 
bare  field,  and  within  the  enclosure  is  the 
well  where  so  many  women  and  children 
were  shot  whilst  getting  water.  A  few 
yards  N.  stood  two  buildings ;  one  of 
them  was  the  hospital  of  Wheeler's 
force,  and  both  were  exposed  to  a  merci- 
less fire  from  all  sides.  Nearer  to  the 
modern  barracks  is  the  enclosure  sur- 
rounding the  well  in  which  250  of  the 
garrison  were  buried.  The  inscription 
on  the  cross  runs  : — In  a  well  under 
this  Cross  were  laid  by  the  hands  of  their 
fellows  in  suffering,  the  bodies  of  men, 
women,  and  SiUdren,  who  died  hard  by 
during  the  heroic  defence  of  Wheeler's 
EntrenchTnervb  when  beleagv/red  by  the 
rebel  Nana. — June  ^th  to  27th,   AD. 

MDCOCLVII. 

The  Massacre  Ghat  is  about  f  m.  N. 
by  E.  of  the  church.  A  grassy  road 
between  banks  10  ft.  or  12  ft.  high 
lined  with  trees,  among  which  the 
murderers  concealed  themselves,  leads 
down  to  the  river.  On  the  bank  is  a 
temple  to  Shiva,  of  hexagonal  shape, 
old  and  going  to  ruin.  Steps  lead 
from  this  temple  to  an  enclosed  fiight 
of  steps,  which  in  the  cold  season 
descend  to  the  water,  but  in  the  rains 
are  covered  almost  to  the  top.     1  m. 


264 


ROUTE    19.       CALCUTTA   TO   GAUB   AND   LUCKEESEBAI  IlMl 


np  tiie  rtream  is  the  fine  bridge  of  the 
Ondh  and  Bohilcnnd  Kailway.  Close 
to  this  was  the  pontoon,  or  Boat 
Bridge^  over  which  the  conyoj,  3  m. 
long,  of  women  and  wounded,  bronght 
from  Lncknow  by  Sir  Colin,  paesed ; 
and  here  was  Windham's  small  en- 
trenched camp. 

Christeikwehf  dose  to  the  Bank  of 
Bengal,  is  the  CItH  Station  church, 
and  has  no  pretentions  to  architectoral 
beauty.  It  contains  tablets  to  persons 
killed  in  the  Mutiny. 

The  Memaridl  Well  and  Oardetu  are 
about  a  furlong  to  the  £.  of  Christ- 
church.  They  extend  over  30  acres, 
prettily  laid  out,  and  over  the  fatal 
well  a  mound  has  been  raised,  which 
slopes  upwards  until  it  is  crowned  by 
a  handsome  octsgonal  Gothic  screen 
designed  by  the  late  Sir  Heniy  Yule, 
B.E.,  C.B.  In  the  centre  of  the  en- 
closure, on  the  actual  well,  containing 
the  bodies  of  some  200  yictims,  ia  the 
figure  of  the  Angel  of  the  Jtesurrection 
in  white  marble,  by  Marochetti,  with 
arms  crossed  on  her  breast,  as  if  resigned 
to  the  Almighty  Will,  each  hand  hold- 
ing a  palm,  the  emblem  of  peace.  Oyer 
the  arch  is  inscribed,  '*  These  are  they 
which  came  out  of  great  tribulation. 
Around  the  wall  which  marks  the 
circle  of  the  well  is;  ** Scu!red  to  the 
^perpetual  Memory  of  a  great  company  of 
Christian,  people^  chiefly  Women  arid 
Children,  who  near  this  spot  were  cruelly 
murdered  by  the  followers  of  the  rebel 
Noma  Dhimdu  Pant,  of  Bithwr,  and 
cast,  the  dying  with  the  dead,  into  the 
well  below,  on  the  xvth  day  of  JvZy, 
MDCCCLVW  Close  to  the  monu- 
ment is  a  small  enclosed  cemetery,  filled 
with  bright  flowers  and  shrubs.  Two 
of  the  tombs  are  to  the  memory  of  the 
women  and  children  of  the  1st  Com- 
pany, 6th  Battery,  Bengal  Artillery, 
and  those  of  H.M.'s  82d  Begiment, 
who  were  slaughtered  near  this  spot, 
ISthof  July  1857. 


890  m. 
p.  36). 


Allahabad  junc.  sta.   (see 


ROUTE  19. 

Calcutta    by    ths    East    Indian 
Railway  loop  line  to  Azimoanj, 

MU&SHEDABAD,  AND  BeBHAMPUK, 
AND      TO     MaLDAH,     GaUB,     AND 

Panduah,  bbjoinino  the  main 

LINE  AT  LtTCEEESEBAI. 

From  the  Howrah  sta.  Calcutta  it  is 

75  m.  to  Khana  junc  (see  p.  51). 
Here  the  loop  line  branches  off  K.  to 

145  m.  Nalhati  June.  sta. 

[Here  it  is  necessary  to  change  again 
leaying  the  loop  line  and  branching  £. 
along  the  Ifalhati  State  Rly.  to 

27  m.  AzimganJ  stku,  en  the  rt.  bank 
of  the  Bhagirathi  riyer,  opposite  Mur- 
shedabad.  This  is  a  clean,  well-kept 
town,  inhabited  by  Jsin  merchants, 
who  came  originally  from  Ajmere  200 
years  ago,  and  haye  built  seyeral  hand- 
some temples.  The  Bhagirathi  is  here 
700  ft.  broad,  and  rises  in  the  rains  25 
ft,  when  the  current  runs  7  m.  an  hour. 
To  reach  Murshedabad  it  is  necessary 
to  cross  this  riyer  by  a  ferry.  On  the 
farther  (£.)  side  there  is  a  metalled 
road  which  passes  through  straggling 
bazaars,  and  past  some  fine  houses 
belonging  to  the  leading  Eyans,  for  5 
m.  to 

Murshedabad  (pop.  89,000)  on  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Bhagirathi,  chief  city  of 
the  district  of  the  same  name,  is  the 
residence  of  the  Nawab  of  Bengal,  and 
is  called  after  the  fi^reat  Nawab  Murshed 
Euli  Khan,  though  originally  the  name 
was  Maksudabad.  It  was  a  prosperous 
place  in  the  last  century,  and  owed 
much  of  its  wealth  to  its  being  upon 
the  line  of  trade  from  the  interior  of 
Asia  to  the  European  settlements  on 
the  Hooghly. 

Though  the  population  is  decreasing, 
a  good  many  wealthy  Jain  merchants 
may  yet  be  found  here,  who  deal  in 
caryea  iyory — a  speciality  of  the  place, 
— embroideries,  musical  instruments, 
etc. 

I  The  Baft  Festival  is  still  celebrated 
here,  in  honour  of  Ehw^a  Khisr  (the 
prophet  Elias).      On    certain   nights 


ROUTS  19.      MUBSHBnABAD 


265 


during  the  rainy  season  thoiuftnds  of 
Httle  rafts,  each  bearing  one  or  two 
iweetmeats  and  each  carrying  a  lighted 
lamp,  are  set  afloat  down  tne  stream.' 
At  me  same  time  there  is  a  great  dis- 
play of  fireworks  from  a  huge  raft 
beaming  a  mock  fortress  npon  it. 

Nnmerons  brick  bniidings  stand 
dong  the  banks  of  the  river,  some  with 
aniens,  and  all  in  a  dense  jnngle  of 
Mmbooe  and  other  trees,  which  com- 
^etely  hide  the  dwellings  below  when 
leen  from  the  roof  of  the  palace, — ^the 
)est  place  for  a  view  in  the  neighbonr- 
lood. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  is  the 
Palace  of  the  Nawab,  which  with  the 
arronnding  buildings  enclosed  by  a 
rail  goes  by  the  name  of  the  Nizamat 
tila.  It  is  situated  on  the  ziver-bank, 
bout  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  is  in 
he  Italian  style,  somewhat  resembling 
bremment  House  at  Calcutta,  and  was 
uilt  in  1837  at  a  cost  of  £167,000. 
%e  aarchitect  was  Greneral  Macleod  of 
be  Beng.  Eng.  It  fiftces  N.,  and  is  80 
L  high.  In  the  entrance  room  is  a 
Icture  of  the  Nawab  Nazim  and 
leneral  Macleod.  There  is  a  circular 
farbar-room,  and  a  Banqueting -room 
M)  ft.  long,  with  a  picture  of  the  burial 
f  Sir  John  Moore,  by  Marshall,  at  the 
r.  end.  The  Armouiy  is  quite  worthy 
Ta  visit,  and  the  ieweis  are  remarkably 
Be.  In  the  lioFary  are  some  very 
re  MSS.  Altogether  the  palace  is  a 
Ae  modem  buuding,  and  there  are 
x>d  views  from  it  over  the  river  and 
irronndings. 

The  ZencMia  is  to  rt.  of  the  main 
ttranoe  at  the  back  of  the  palace. 
In    the    same    enclosure  with    the 
ilace  is  the  Imambarah  or  house  of 
wrer,  built  1847. 

jfnst  outside  the  city  S.K  is  the 
uttcara  (or  Kutra)  containing  the 
Kmb  of  MuTshid  Euli  Ehan.  It  was 
{Qstmoted  on  the  model  of  the  Great 
ioflqiie  at  Mecca,  has  2  minarets  70 
,  high,  but  is  now  in  ruins. 
Near  this,  and  60  yds.  from  the  road, 
the  Oreat  Gun,  the  sister  gun  to  that 

Dacca.  It  is  17^  ft.  long,  with  a 
itb  of  5  ft  at  the  breech.  The  calibre 
6  in.  This  cannon,  which  had  been 
[t  lying  on  the  ground  for  many  years, 


has  been  lifted  up  5  fL  in  the  air  by  a 
vast  tree  which  has  grown  up  from  a 
seedling  beneath  it.  The  inscription 
is  in  Persian,  with  the  date  1637. 
S.W.  of  it  and  2  m.  S.  of  the  city 
is 

The  Motijhil,  or  Pearl  Lake,  a  beauti- 
ftd  spot ;  but  hardly  a  relic  remains  of 
its  former  splendour,  when  it  was  sur- 
rounded by  palaces.  It  contains  a  good 
many  alligators. 

The  Khu^  Bagh,  "Garden  of 
Happiness,"  the  old  cemeteiy  of  the 
Kawabs,  is  opposite  to  the  Mot^hil  on 
the  rt.  bank  of  the  river.  It  consists 
of  3  walled  enclosures.  The  entrance  to 
the  outer  one,  planted  with  flowers 
and  shady  trees,  is  from  the  E.,  close 
to  where  some  ruined  ghats  stretch 
down  to  the  deserted  bed  of  the  Bhagi- 
rathi,  which  now  flows  in  another 
channeL  In  the  central  enclosure  are 
the  tombs  of  the  good  Nawab  Ali  Yardi 
Khan  and  his  grandson  Siraiu  Baulah. 
They  are  almost  level  with  the  ground, 
and  are  covered  with  chadars  of  gold 
embroidery.  The  third  enclosure  con- 
tains a  tank  and  Muzafifar  Ehana.  The 
Roshan  Bagh  is  also  a  cemetery  and 
well-shaded  garden. 

The  Nizamat  College  is  exclusively 
for  relatives  of  the  Nawab. 

The  Cemetery  of  Tafar  Ownj^  about 
1  m.  to  the  N.  of  the  palace  of  Mursheda- 
bad,  is  that  of  the  Nawabs  Nazim 
appointed  by  the  English  ;  it  diifers  in 
some  respects  from  all  others  of  the 
kind  in  India.  Opposite  the  gate,  and 
on  the  farther  side  of  the  road,  is  a 
handsome  mosque.  The  person  in 
charge  of  the  cemetery,  which  covers 
several  acres,  has  a  plan  which  shows 
all  the  tombs.  These  are  very  well 
kept,  and  almost  every  inch  of  ground 
is  occupied.  The  farthest  tomb  at  the 
E.  end  is  that  of  Gauharu-nisa  Begam, 
who  was  the  daughter  of  Nasiru'l  mulk. 
There  are  seventy-seven  Karie  or  Scrip- 
ture-readers at  this  cemetery,  who  read 
the  Koran  in  three  portions,  so  that 
every  third  day  the  whole  Koran  is 
read  through. 

Murshedabad  district  is  noted  for  its 
sQk  industry.  The  villagers  rear  the 
silkworm  at  home,  and  sell  the  cocoons 
to  the  spinnen,  who  export  it.    Silk- 


266 


ROUTE  19.       OALOUTTA  TO  GAUB  AND  LUGKEESERAI 


India 


cloth  and  handkerchiefs  are  woven 
here  on  hand-looms. 

The  principal  Indigo  Factories  in  the 
district  are  at  Akraganj,  Patkaburi,  and 
Dumkol. 

There  is  still  Pig-sticking  to  be  had 
in  the  district. 

The  Kawab's  Staples  for  elephants 
and  horses  are  on  the  road  to  Berham- 
pur,  6  m.  below  Murshedabad  on  the 
I.  bank  of  the  river. 

At  3  m.  S.  of  Murshedabad,  1.  of  the 
road,  is  a  ma^ifioent  avenue  of  deodar 
trees,  extending  from  2  to  3  m.  This 
avenue  leads  to  Maidapur,  the  old 
civil  station,  now  abandoned. 

Berhampur,  D.B.,  is  a  town  of 
23,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  civil 
headquarters  of  the  district.  After 
the  battle  of  Plassey,  as  the  factory- 
house  at  Easim  Bazar,  where  Warren 
Hastings  rested,  had  been  destroyed  by 
Siraju  Baulah,  Berhampur  was  chosen 
as  a  healthy  site  for 

The  Barracks,  which  cost  £802,270 
to  build.  The  cantonments  of  Berham- 
pur will  always  be  notorious  as  the 
scene  of  the  first  overt  act  of  mutiny 
in  1857.^  On  the  26th  of  February  the 
19th  Eegt.  N.  I.  refused  to  receive 
their  ammunition,  for  which  they  were 
marched  down  to  Barrackpur  and  dis- 
banded. The  ^reat  square  formed  by 
the  barracks  is  called  Cantonment 
Square  or  Barrack  Square. 

The  New  Cemetery  is  ^  m.  to  the 
N.E.  Here  are  said  to  be  interred 
(see  Stat,  Ace  of  JBeng.  vol.  ix.  p.  77), 
George  Thomas,  the  famous  Irish  ad- 
venturer, who  made  for  himself  a 
principality  in  Bajputana,  which  he 
faUed  to  keep ;  Creighton,  the  ex- 
plorer of  Gaur,  and  the  hero  of  Mrs. 
Sherwood's  well-known  tale  Little 
Henry  and  his  Bearer. 

There  is  an  old  English  Cemetery  at 
Kasim  Bazar,  about  8  m.  to  the  N.W. 
of  Barrack  Square.  In  it  are  the  tombs 
of  Warren  Hastings's  first  wife  (d. 
1759)  and  daughter. 

The  DiUch  Cemetery,  which  is  ^  m.  to 
the  W.  of  the  English,  contains  43 
tombs,  of  which  only  four  are  in- 
scribed. 

1  See  Kay«'i  Ajpoy  Wwr. 


Plassey,  called  from  Palas,  the  Bviod 
frondosa  tree,  is  25  m.  by  road  S.  qq 
Easim  Bazar.  It  is  a  bad  road,  umII 
three  relays  of  ponies  are  required  tJ 
make  the  journey.  Olive's  position  ii 
marked  by  a  mound  close  to  the  rivei^ 
on  which  he  placed  his  guns,  and  byi 
simple  monument  raised  by  the  Bengd 
Government.  It  appears  from  oil 
maps  that  at  the  time  of  the  battle  the 
Bhagirathi  flowed  more  to  the  W., 
where,  in  -fact,  an  old  channel  can  bi 
clearly  traced.] 

The  traveller  must  return  throu^l 
Murshedabad  to  Nalhati  in  order  to 
rejoin  the  rly.  and  continue  along  thi 
loop  line  to 

195  m.  Tin  Fahar  junc.  sta.         i 

[A  branch  line  runs  N.  E.  (7  m.)  to  i 

202  m.  Bajmalial  sta.,  a  sub-da 
trict  of  the  Santal  Parganahs.  Th 
town  stands  on  the  W.  or  right  bud 
of  the  Ganges.  This  place  was  onei 
the  capital  of  Bengal,  and  has  maaji 
historical  associations.  The  traveUa 
will  here  have  an  opportunity  of  seeisj 
the  remarkable  tribe  of  Santals. 

Rajmahal  up  to  1592  A.I).  was  knowf 
as  Agmahal,  but  when  Bigah  Man  Singi 
Akbar's  famous  Rajput  general,  re- 
turned from  the  conc[uest  of  Orissa  ii 
1592  A.D.,  he  made  it  the  seat  of  hli 
government,  and  changed  its  name  to 
Rajmahal.  He  also  began  to  build  i 
palace  and  a  Hindu  temple,  bat  tk 
report  having  spread  that  he  was  build- 
ing an  idolatrous  temple,  to  avoid  tiM 
wrath  of  Akbar  he  turned  it  into  t 
mosque,  and  changed  the  name  of  thi 
town  to  Akbamagar.  In  1607  Islan 
Khan  transferred  the  seat  of  govern^ 
ment  to  Dacca,  but  it  was  again  broo^t 
to  Rajmahal  by  Sultan  Shi^'a  in  163(ti 
In  the  beginning  of  the  next  centmy 
Murshed  Auli  Ehan  transferred  tbi 
government  to  Murshedabad,  and  B^i 
mahal  fell  into  deca^.  In  1868  tin 
Ganges  abandoned  its  channel  ani 
Rajmahal  was  left  8  m.  distant  from  tki 
main  stream,  only  to  be  approached  to 
steamers  during  the  rains.  This  mw 
accelerated  the  decay  of  the  plaoe. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  froft 


ROUTE  19.   ENGLISH  BAZAR GAUR 


267 


pie  station  axe  the  Collector's  Office  and 
rther  public  buildings.  Not  far  from 
jke  rly.  sta.  are  remains  of  a  building 
^ed  the  SaTigi  Dalan,  "  hall  of  stone. " 
^  is  100  ft.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
ias  three  doors  of  black  basalt  in  the 
ientre.  This  is  said  to  have  been  part 
i  the  palace  of  Sultan  Shuja,  son  of 
^hangir,  and  Governor  of  Behar. 

The  MatTia  Tank  is  |  m.  due  W.  of 
ibe  Cvtcherry,  At  its  S.  end  is  a 
ftassive  brick  building,  with  an  Arabic 
ascription  in  the  Tughra  character ; 
fDd  100  yds.  to  the  S.  is  the  Maina 
losque. 

The  Hadaf  is  4  m.  to  the  N.W. 
&e  road  leads  through  a  forest  of  tall 
rees,  with  ruined  buildings  at  inter- 
'iHs.  At  1^  m.  it  passes  a  solid  brick 
foilding  on  the  right  hand,  called  tbe 
f!aksal,  or  Mint,  with  walls  5)  ft 
bick.  The  Hadaf  ruins  are  about  200 
ids.  off  the  road  to  the  left  through  a 
bck  low  jungle.  The  entrance  is  by 
be  E.  gateway,  which  is  much  injured, 
fhe  traveller  then  finds  himself  in  a 
jDadrangle.  The  mosque  proper  has 
tfaijade  200  ft.  long,  with  seven  arches, 
Ich  22  ft.  high.  In  the  centre  of  the 
uadrangle  is  a  reservoir,  with  steps 
lown  to  the  water.  The  whole  is  now 
IBch  ruined  and  covered  with  jungle. 

The  distance  from  Rajmahal  to 
Snglish  .  Bazar,  the  headquarters  of 
be  Maldah  district,  is  24  m.     There  is 

steam  ferry  across  the  Ganges  at 
tajmahal. 

English  Bazaxi^  (12,500  inhab.)  is 
Ituated  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Mahan- 
nda  about  4  m.  below  Old  Maldah, 
!om  which  the  district  takes  its 
ame.  The  place  is  not  frequented 
y  travellers,  and  arrangements  for  the 
ramey  should  be  made  by  writing  to 
be  magistrate  at  Maldah  a  week  beiore- 
and.  The  distance  from  English 
tazar  to  Gaur  is  about  8  m.  as  the 
row  flies,  and  to  the  Adina  Mosque  at 
^anduah,  12  m. 

Old  Maldah  is  at  the  confluence  of 
he  Kalindri  with  the  Mahananda.  It 
s  an  admirable  position  for  river- traffic, 
nd  probably  rose  to  prosperity  as  the 
►ort  of  the  Mohammedan  capital  of 
^anduah.     During  the  last  century  it 


was  the  seat  of  thriving  cotton  and 
silk:  manufactures,  and  the  French  and 
Dutch  had  factories  at  it  The  English 
factory,  established  in  1656,  how- 
ever, was  always  at  English  Bazar, 
lower  down  the  Mahananda,  and  on 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  The 
pop.  is  4700.  The  Golden  Mosque  at 
Old  Maldah  is  scarcely  worth  a  visit. 

The  ruins  of  Gaur  and  Panduah,  suc- 
cessive capitals  of  Bengal,  are  interest- 
ing only  to  the  antiquarian.  The  sites 
of  these  old  cities  are  being  rapidly 
turned  under  the  plough,  and  the  dense 
jungles  which  30  years  ago  sheltered 
tigers  and  leopards  no  longer  exist. 

Gaur  was  the  metropolis  of  Bengal 
under  its  Hindu  kings.  Its  most 
ancient  name  was  Laldinauti,  a  cor- 
ruption of  Lakshmanawati.  But  the 
name  of  Gaur  also  is  of  primeval  an- 
tiquity, as  is  found  in  the  QuaHya 
Brahmana,  Its  known  history  begins 
with  its  conquest  in  1204  a.d.^  by  the 
Mohammedans,  who  made  it  the  chief 
centre  of  their  power  in  Bengal  for 
more  than  three  centuries.  When  the 
Afghan  kings  of  Bengal  became  inde- 
pendent, they  made  Panduah  their 
capital,  and  for  building  purposes  they 
robbed  Gaur  of  all  tbe  material  that 
could  be  removed.  This  accounts  for 
the  number  of  sculptured  Hindu  stones 
amongst  the  ruins  of  Panduah.  When 
Panduah  was  in  its  turn  deserted,  Gaur 
again  became  the  capital,  and  was  called 
Jannatabad,  "terrestrial  paradise," 
which  name  occurs  in  i^eAin-i-Ahhari, 
Daud  Khan  was  the  last  of  the  Afghan 
kings,  and  his  state  was  absorbed  into 
Akbar's  empire  in  1573  a.d. 

The  dimensions  of  the  city  proper, 
within  the  great  continuous  embank- 
ment, are  7i  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  1 
to  2  m.  broad.  The  W.  side  was  washed 
by  the  Ganges,  which  flowed  where  the 
channel  of  the  Little  Bhagirathi  now 
is.  The  E.  side  was  protected  by  the 
Mahananda  and  by  swamps.  On  the 
S.  the  Mahananda  joined  the  Ganges, 
and  left  little  space  for  an  enemy  to 
encamp.  On  the  N.  a  fortification  6 
m,  long  extends  in  an  irregular  curve 

1  Blochmann  says  1108  a.d.  ;  Mr.  Thomas 
1202  ;  Msgor  Rayerty,  IIM. 


268 


ROUTE  19.       CALCUTTA  TO  GAUR  AND  LUCKBESERAI 


Indta 


from  the  old  channel  of  the  Bhagirathl 
at  Sonatala  to  near  the  Mahananda 
and  Bholahat.  This  rampart  is  100 
ft.  wide  at  base.  At  the  N.E.  part  of 
the  curve  is  a  gate,  protected  by  a 
strong  outwork  in  the  form  of  a  quad- 
rant, through  which  a  high  embanked 
road  passes  N.  and  S.  In  this  outwork 
is  the  tomb  of  a  Mohammedan  saint 
Near  the  N.E.  comer,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Ealindri  and  the  Mahananda, 
are  the  ruins  of  a  minar,  K  of  the 
rampart  are  the  remains  of  the  palace  of 
Balal  Sen,  an  early  Hindu  king. 

Behind  the  rampart  lay  the  N. 
suburb  of  the  city,  in  which  is  the  most 
celebrated  piece  of  artificial  water  in 
Bengal,  the  Saogar  INgi,  1600  yds. 
long  by  800  broad.  It  dates  from  1126 
A.I).  The  water  is  still  pure  and  sweet 
On  the  bank  is  the  tomb  of  Makhdum 
Shaik  Akhi  Siraju-din  and  a  small 
mosque.  Both  buildings  are  endowed 
and  ke{)t  in  fair  repair.  W.  of  this 
suburb  is  a  ghat  called  S'adu'llahpur 
leading  down  to  the  sacred  river ;  and 
S.  of  it  lie  the  ruins  of  the  city,  defended 
by  a  strong  rampart  and  ditch.  To- 
wards the  Mahananda  the  rampart  is 
double,  and  in  most  parts  there  have 
been  two  immense  ditches,  and  in  places 
three. 

To  the  S.,  on  the  Bhaeirathl,  was 
the  GUadely  1  m.  long  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  from  600  to  800  yds.  broad. 
The  brick  wall  has  been  very  strong, 
with  many  flanking  angles,  and  round 
bastions  at  the  comers.  Outside  the 
N.  entrance  have  been  several  fine 
gates  or  triumphal  arches.  In  the 
S.E.  comer  of  the  citadel  was  the 
palace,  surrounded  by  a  brick  wall 
66  ft  high,  and  8  ft  thick,  with  an 
ornamented  cornice, — hence  called  the 
'*  Boris  Gaji"  waU.  A  Uttle  N.  of 
the  palace  are  remains  of  the  royal 
tombs,  where  Husain  Shah  and  other 
kings  were  buried.  In  the  citadel  are 
two  mosques ;  the  smaller  one,  called 
the  Kadam  Mosul,  built  by  Husain 
Shah,  is  kept  in  good  repair  by  an 
endowment  Mr.  Fergusson  says  of  its 
style ;  "  It  is  neither  like  that  of  Delhi 
nor  that  of  Jaunpur,  nor  any  other 
st^le,  but  one  purely  local,  and  not 
without  considerable  merit  in  itself; 


its  principal  characteristic  beiog 
heavy,  short  pillars  of  stone  support- 
ing pointed  arches,  and  vaults  in  brick. 
The  solidity  of  the  supports  goes  far  ig 
redeem  the  inherent  weakness  of  brick 
architecture.  It  also  presents,  tboQ^ 
in  a  very  subdued  form,  the  curve! 
linear  form  of  the  roof,  which  is  s» 
characteristic  of  the  style.  TU 
Eadam  Rasul  was  built  by  Nasnt 
Shah,  in  937  a. H.  =1530  a.d."  JmI 
outside  the  E.  wall  of  the  citadel  is  € 
lofty  brick  tower,  known  as  Pir  *Am 
Minarf  which  had  a  chamber  with  foor 
windows  at  the  top,  to  which  acceai 
was  gained  by  a  winding  stair.  Dl 
Hunter  says :  ''  One  of  the  .most  inte^ 
esting  of  the  antiquities  of  the  place* 
a  minar.  For  two-thirds  of  the  heigU 
it  is  a  polygon  of  twelve  sides ;  abofi 
that  circular  until  it  attains  the  hei^ 
of  84  ft  The  door  is  at  some  distanel 
from  the  present  level  of  the  grotmdj 
and  altogether  it  looks  more  like  i^ 
Irish  round  tower  than  a  minar"  Thert 
is  or  was  an  inscription  on  this  moDH^ 
ment,  which  ascribed  its  erection  tl 
Feroz  Shah. 

The  finest  ruin  in  Gaur  is  that  of  tli« 
Ooldm  Mosque  or  Barah  Darwazah, 
It  is  close  to  the  N.S.  comer  of  tH 
citadel.  It  measures  180  ft  from  N. 
to  S.,  60  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  is » 
ft  high.  The  entrance  is  by  an  arched 
gateway  of  stone  26  ft  in  height 
and  6  ft  in  breadth.  The  mosqae 
in  plan  is  oblong,  and  originally  con- 
sisted of  four  separate  colonnades, 
arched  and  roofed  over,  and  covered 
by  handsome  domes,  in  all  44  in 
number.  Six  minarets  or  columns  of 
brown  stone  faced  with  black  marbl« 
adorn  the  building;  bands  of  bfa» 
marble  about  12  in.  in  breadth  embnoe 
the  column  from  the  base  to  the  capital, 
and  are  adorned  with  a  profbsioa  of 
flower -work  carved  in  marble.  The 
domes  are  built  of  brick.  The  whole 
appearance  of  this  building  is  strikingly 
grand,  exhibiting  the  taste  and  munifi- 
cence of  the  prince  who  erected  it  Th* 
corridor  is  so  larse  that  one  can  ride 
through  it  on  an  elephant,  and  so  enter 
the  BakhU  or  '<  Salami  Gate,''  the  N. 
entrance  to  the  fort  This  beautifid 
gate  ia  built  of  small  red  biidcB,  ad 


BOUTE  19.      PANDUAH — JAMALPORE 


269 


has  been  adonied  with  embossed  bricks, 
which  can  still  be  seen  on  the  towers 
at  the  fonr  comers.  The  arch  of  the 
gateway  is  about  30  ft  high,  and  forms 
a  corridor  112  ft  long. 

The  Sultan  Mosque  is  also  called  the 
painted  mosque,  from  the  bricks  bein^ 
enamelled  in  green,  yellow,  blue,  and 
white,  and  arranged  in  bands.  The 
effect  must  have  been  very  striking. 

The  JarOipwra  mosque  is  remarkable 
for  the  specimens  of  embossed  brick- 
work with  which  the  front  is  adorned. 

About  1^  m.  N.  of  the  Citadel  is  a 
space  of  600  sq.  yds.,  bounded  by  a 
rampart  and  aitch,  known  as  the 
Flower  Garden.  Between  it  and  the 
Citadel  is  the  Piyaswari,  **  Abode  of 
Thirst,"  a  tank  of  bad  water,  which  is 
sold  to  have  been  given  to  condemned 
criminals.  Mc^or  Francklin 'describes 
it  as  excellent  water. 

In  the  S.  wall  of  the  city  is  a  fine 
central  gate  called  the  Katwali  Dwr- 
tocusahf  and  S.  &om  it  stretches  an 
immense  suburb  called  Ferozepur.  In 
it  is  the  lesser  Golden  Mosque,  which 
Buchanan  Hamilton  praises,  and 
Kavenshaw  calls  *'  the  gem  of  Gaur." 

Paaduah  is  20  m.  K.E.  from  Gaur, 
and  12  m.  N.E.  from  Maldah.  It  was 
called  by  the  Mohammedans  Ferozabad. 
The  first  independent  King  of  Bengal 
made  it  his  capital.  A  road  paved 
with  brick,  from  12  ft  to  16  ft  wide, 
passes  through  Fanduah.  Almost  all 
the  monuments  are  on  the  borders  of 
this  road.  Near  the  middle  is  a  bridge 
of  three  arches,  the  materials  of  which 
have  evidently  been  brought  from  the 
Hindu  temples  at  Gaur,  as  figures  of 
men  and  animals  are  sculptured  on 
them.  On  approaching  the  ruins  from 
the  S.,  the  first  objects  that  attract 
attention  are  the  17th  cent  -shrines  of 
Makhdwm,  Shah  Jalal,  and  his  grand- 
son £utb  'Alana  Shah^  which  are  en- 
dowed with  28,000  acres  of  Und.  To 
the  N.  stands  the  small  Golden  Mosque^ 
with  granite  walls  and  ten  brick  domes. 
An  i^bic  inscription  says  that  it  was 
built  by  Makhdum  Shaik,  son  of 
Muhammad  Al-Khalidi,  in  990  a.h. 
N.  of  this  mosque  is  another,  called 
Eklakhif  as  having  cost  a  lakh.     It  is 


perhaps  one  of  the  finest  examples  of 
the  !ESBngali  tomb.  It  is  80  n,  sq., 
covered  by  one  dome,  and  contains  tne 
remains  of  Ghiasu-din,  his  wife,  and 
his  daughter-in-law.  It  is  completely 
covered  with  trees,  which  are  growing 
out  of  it  and  will  destroy  it.  2  m. 
beyond  it  is  the  tomb  of  Sikandar, 
father  of  Ghiasu-din,  and  the  greatest 
of  the  monarchs  who  made  Fanduah 
their  capital.  It  forms  part  of  the  great 
mosque,  called  the  Adina  Musjid, 
the  nnest  specimens  of  Mogul  archi- 
tecture in  Lower  Bengal.  It  was  built 
about  1860  by  Secunder  Shah,  and 
shows  traces  of  having  been  constructed 
out  of  Hindu  and  even  Buddhistic 
remains.  The  "Buddhist  railing" 
round  the  W.  front  is  incapable  of  any 
other  explanation.  The  Klblah  and 
Mimbah  (pulpit)  are  gems  of  stone 
carving.  According  to  Mr.  Fergusson 
the  ffround-plan  and  dimensions  are 
exacuy  similar  to  those  of  the  Great 
Mosque  at  Damascus.  It  extends  600 
ft  from  N.  to  S.,  and  300  ft  from  E. 
to  W.  This  space  is  subdivided  by 
transverse  brick  walls  and  stone  pillars 
into  127  squares,  each  covered  by  a 
dome.  On  the  outside  are  many  small 
windows,  highly  decorated  with  carved 
tiles  disposed  in  arches.  The  mosque 
proper  is  composed  of  a  central  apart- 
ment and  two  wings.  It  is  62  ft. 
hip^h  in  the  centre  from  the  floor  to  the 
middle  of  the  dome. 

The  only  other  ruin  of  note  in 
Fanduah  is  the  Sataisgarh,  said  to  have 
been  the  king's  palace.  It  is  situated 
opposite  the  Adina  Mosque,  and  is 
enveloped  in  the  most  dense  jungle. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  tigers 
and  panthers  in  and  near  Gaur  and 
Fanduah,  and  in  the  Barindra  tract  and 
the  jungles  £.  of  them ;  but  the  English 
sportsman  who  desires  to  hunt  them 
must  be  prepared  to  spend  time  and 
money,  and  must  take  advice  from 
experienced  Nimrods  who  know  the 
locality.] 


From  Tin  Pahar  sta.  the  loop  line 
continues  N.  to 

291  m.  Jamalpore  sta.  (B.),  and  re- 
joins the  main  E.  I.  RIy.  at 


270 


ROUTE  20.       CALCUTTA  TO  DARJBBLING 


262  m.  Luckeeserai  junc.  sta.  (see 
Rto.  1). 


ROUTE  20 

From  Calcutta  by  Eastern  Bengal 
Railway  to  Darjeblino 

The  traveller  leaves  Calcutta  by  the 
Sealdah  station. 

46  m.  Banaghat  junc.  sta.,  D.B. 
[Branch  line  £.  for  Bongong  and 
Ehoolna.] 

103  m.  Poradaha  junc.  sta.  [Branch 
line  E.  for  Groalundo  Ghat  (50  m.)  on 
the  Ganges,  Bte.  20b.] 

120  mi  Damookdea  sta.,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ganges.  Here  a  steam 
ferry  is  in  readiness  to  take  passengers 
across  the  river  to  Sara  Ghat  The 
distance  from  the  station  to  the  steamer 
varies  from  time  to  time,  as  all  the 
rivers  in  this  part  of  India  have  a 
tendency  to  change  their  course.  The 
variations  in  the  bed  of  the  Ganges  at 
various  places  connected  with  this 
railway,  oy  necessitating  changes  of 
railway  stations,  and  the  removal  of 
lines  of  rail,  have  caused  great  em- 
barrassment. Sir  William  Hunter  says: 
''Fluvial  changes  on  so  great  a  scale 
had  been  encountered  at  the  river- 
crossing,  where  the  Northern  Bengal 
Railway  begins  and  the  Eastern  Bengal 
Railway  ends,  that  no  costly  or 
permanent  terminus  has  yet  been 
attempted." 

The  distance  from  the  right  bank 
sta.  to  Sara  Ghat  sta.,  on  the  left  bank, 
is  about  13  m.,  of  which  a  considerable 
distance  is  on  temporary  rails  laid  on 
the  sand  in  the  dry  season.  The 
actual  crossing  by  ferry  steamer  occu- 
pies about  twenty  minutes.  Meals  are 
procurable  on  board.     At  Sara   Ghat 


the   Korthem    Bengal  Railway  con 
menoes ;  it  is  metre  gauge. 

At  24  m.  from  Sara  Ghat  is  Nattel 
sta.  (R.),  D.B.1 

111  m.  Parbatippr  junc.  sta.  (B. 
from  whence  the  line  towards 
runs  E.  through  Rungpore. 

178  m.  Jalpaiguri  sta.  (R.),  D.B, 
town  with  a  pop.  of  8000.  Formed 
a  military  cantonment,  but  now  a  cii 
station  ;  chief  place  of  a  district  of  til 
same  name. 

[From  Jalpaiguri  Ghat  a  boat  lean 
for  Teesta  Ghat ;  thence  a  train  m 
to  Da/m  Dim.] 

196  m.  SiUignrista.  (R.),  D.B.   U 
N.  terminus  of  the  Northern  ] 
Railway. 

From  this  place  to  Darjeeling  tk 
journey  is  made  by  the  Simalaiit 
Bailway  on  a  gauce  of  2  ft.  D 
distance  is  50  m.,  ana  the  time  occnpifl 
eight  hours. 

The  line  is  constructed  in  the 
substantial  manner,  with  heavy  ate 
rails  (40  lbs.  to  the  yd.)  The  lo« 
motives,  specially  designed  by  Messq 
Sharpe  and  Stewart  of  Manchestei 
weigh  10  tons.  The  speed  of  the 
both  up  and  down,  is  not  all( 
to  exceed  7  m.  an  hour,  although 
special  occasions  16  m.  has  been 
attained.  By  the  present 
travellers  ascend  over  1000  ft  an  h 
It  is  worthy  of  note  that  this  is 
first  work  of  the  kind  for  which  tl 
capital  required  has  been  raised  entireljl 
in  India. 

It  is  essential  to  make  this  jonmej 
by  daylight.  Travellers  are  siarong^ 
advised  to  have  extra  warm  clothing  a^ 
hand,  also  a  warm  wrapper  for  thefeeV 
as  the  transition  of  temperature  from 
the  plains  to  the  mountains  is  veiy 
great  They  should  provide  themsdTct 
with  veils,  as  the  dust  and  blacks  from 
the  engine  fly  into  their  faces.  Thoss 
who  sit  on  the  front  seats  of  the  opcB 
carriages  are  especially  inconvenienced- 

1  A  bell  will  be  rung  at  Nattore  to  aro« 
passengers  by  down  mail  to  be  prepared  t» 
alight  and  cross  by  ferry  at  Sara  Ghat. 


NQRTHERM    SECTIQ 


irio 


ROUTE  20.      TBBNDARIA — KURSBONG DARJEELING 


271 


kna  sta.,  7  m.  from  Silliguh, 
begin  to  ascend.    The  turns 

[ sharp,  and  at  each  a  fresh 

J  of  surpassing  beauty  is 
AMd  ^t.  The  sides  of  the  mountain 
^6bk]^  with  lofty  trees  and  masses 
B,  with  graceful  tree-ferns  in 
es  at  the  higher  altitudes.  At 
I  m.  the  cars  pass  round  a  spur 
fojects  from  tne  mountain,  and 
mns  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice 
■ft.     Breakfast  can  be  taken  at 

\     i.  Teendaria  (R.) 

\  ^1  m.  Kuraeong  sta.  *(R.),  D.B., 

%i^ke  tea-gardens,  with  European 

ks  and  medical  men  residing  on 

\  Knrseong  is  5000  ft.  above  sea- 

I  Those  who  stray  off  the  main 

'  ii  damp  weather  must  take  pre- 

I  against  the  leeches,  which  are 

^>ous.     There  are  no  tigers,  but 

I  sometimes  carry  off  cattle. 

„^Q.DaijeeU]i£sta.  «  The  beauty  of 
Sanation,  upon  a  narrow  ridge  hi^h 
" ;  7000  ft.)  above  the  bed  of  lie 
Banjit  Biver,  the  mountain- 
"^  scattered  over  with  villas  and 
ilows,  and  the  colossal  background 
imalayan  giants  towering  above 
hese,  together  with  its  moderate 
ature,  which  neither  exceeds  80° 
Der  nor  falls  below  30°  in  winter, 
klto  make  DaHeeling  a  most  agree- 
1  residence,  and  have  rendered  it  the 
\  important  sanitarium  of  Bengal, 

./ 

&^!he  District  of  Daxjeeling  (pop. 
yjt  155,000)  is  divided  into  two  por- 
,a«S :  the  N.  is  from  4000  to  9000  ft. 

jpre  the  sea-level ;  the  S.,  or  Morangt 
yWsts  of  the  spurs  of  the  first  range 
[  &e  Himalayas  and  the  plains  thence 
^the  Zil'a  of  Rungpore.     Mountains 

lich  rise  to  between  12,000  and  13,000 
^;  divide  it  from  Nipal.  When  Dr. 
J^mpbell  took  charge  in  1839,  there 
,>re  only  20  families  in  the  whole 
'istrict :  he  remained  superintendent 
)r  22  years,  built  the  bazaar,  the  cut- 
ierry,  and  church,  made  roads,  and 
istablished  a  convalescent  dep6t  at 
Telapahar,  the  Military  CantonTnent 
i  of  Darjeeling. 


The  Town.  On  the  Mall  is  the  band- 
stand and  a  drinking  founiain  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Ashley  tden.  The 
old  Secretariat  is  a  fine  large  bungalow 
on  a  wide  plateau,  which  looks  more 
secure  from  a  landslip  than  any  other 
house  about 

Above  .the  Secretariat  is  St  Andrew* s 
Cfhureh;  the  foundation-stone  of  which 
was  laid  by  Bi^op  Milman  in  1870. 

The  old  church  dates  from  1848. 
There  are  tablets  in  it  to  George  W. 
Aylmer  Lloyd,  C.B.,  Lieut-Gen.  H.M.'s 
Bengid  Army,  who  died  at  Darjeeling 
1866,  aged  76.  To  his  personal  influ- 
ence with  the  Rajah  of  Sikkim,  Bengal 
is  indebted  for  the  sanitarium  of  Dar- 
jeeling. 

Another  tablet  is 

In  Memoriam 

CHARLOTTE,  COUNTESS  CANNING, 

Novemlier  1862. 

There  is  also  a  Union  Chapel^  in  Auck- 
land Road.  About  J  m.  beyond  the 
church  is  Tke  Sh/rubheryt  the  large  and 
comfortable  residence  of  the  Lieut. - 
Governor  of  Bengal,  who  spends  May 
and  June,  September  and  October  here. 

The  Eden  Sanitarium  or  ConveUescent 
Hospital  is  a  most  conspicuous  build- 
ing :  it  is  in  the  charge  of  he  Clewer 
Sisters. 

The  principal  Bazaar  is  ir  -vhe  centre 
of  the  town,  and  is  well  wo  th  a  visit. 
On  Sundays  the  bazaars  are  t  l%  thronged 
that  it  is  difficult  to  make  w  •>-''  through 
them.  There  will  be  seen  ^ji  nbers  of 
picturesque  natives  from  t  ■?■'  )arts — 
Lepchas,  Limbus,  Bhutias,  ^^  jetans, 
Nipalese,  and  Paharis,  mixt  -^lop  with 
the  Indiskn  servants  of  European  gentle- 
men and  Hindus,  as  well  ss  Eabulis, 
Cashmeries,  and  Parsi  shopkeepers. 

There  is  an  interesting  Buddhist 
temple  of  a  distinctly  Tibetan  type  in 
the  picturesque  village  of  Bhntia  Bust!, 
1  m.  from  Darjeeling.  It  is  worthy  of 
a  visit  not  only  on  account  of  the 
temple,  but  also  to  see  the  hill-people 
who  inhabit  the  small  village. 

The  Botanical  Gardens  at  Bungarun 
contain  an  interesting  collection  of 
trees  and  plants  peculiar  to  the 
Himalayas. 

From  Darjeeling  the  highest  Moun- 


272 


ROUTE  20.      CALCUTTA  TO  DARJEELINQ 


Iru 


I  in  the  world  can  be 
of  ihese  the  loftiert  is  MotmU 
29,002  ft.,  visible  from  Tig«r  JEOU  (a  6 
m.  ride  fix^m  Ds^eeling)  or  from  ^la- 
pdhor,  the  military  cantonment,  thouffh 
the  distance  is  at  least  120  m.  Tne 
other  peaks  visible  from  Daijeeling  or 
Jelapanar  are:  Kinchinjanga,  28,156 
ft  lu^  46  m.  distant ;  Jann,  25,804 
ft. ;  ^bm,  24,015  fL  ;  Ghumalari, 
28,d43  ft,  84  m.  distant ;  Panhanri, 
28,186  ft  ;  Donkia,  23,176  ft,  78  m. 
distent;  Baudim, 22,017 ft ;  Narsingh, 
19,146  ft,  82  BL  distant ;  Black  Bock, 
17,572  ft ;  and  Chomnnko,  17,325  ft 

Consequently  the  great  attraction  of 
Daijeeling  is  its  nnriTalled  Boennry, 
which  is  unspeakably  grand  and  im- 
possible to  paint  in  words ;  but  there 
are  many  views,  and  particularly  that  of 
Kinchinjanga,  which  impress  the  mind 
more  and  more  every  time  that  they  are 
seen.  Too  often,  unfortunately,  cl^^ds 
veil  the  highest  peaks  for  days  together, 
but  at  times  these  roll  away,  and  dis- 
plav  the  bare  granite  summits.  One 
looks  over  the  lofty  hills  and  across  a 
vast  chasm  to  the  line  of  perpetual 
snow,  about  17,000  ft  high,  on  the 
aide  of  the  stupendous  Einchinjan^. 
Above  that  rises  a  glittering  white 
wall,  and  then  it  seems  as  if  the  sky 
were  rent  and  the  view  is  closed  by 
enormous  masses  of  bare  rock.  There 
is  one  si>ecial  feature  in  the  summit  of 
Kinchinjanga,  and  that  is  a  lofiy  wall 
of  granite  of  prodigious  breadth,  which 
appears  to  divide  the  summit  into  two 
portions. 

The  effect  is  much  more  grand  than 
if  it  were  one  great  mass  of  snow.  The 
extraordinary  grandeur  of  this  scene  is 
heightened  by  the  colouring  given  to 
it  by  the  rising  and  setting  sun,  or  by 
the  moon. 

The  chief  industry  of  Daijeeling  is 
the  cultivation  and  manufacture  of  Tea. 
The  date  of  its  commencement  is  1856, 
when  the  first  tea>garden  was  opened. 
There  are  now  nearly  200  covering  an 
area  of  some  50,000  acres,  and  the  out- 
put in  1882-3,  a  particularly  favourable 
year,  was  over  8,000,000  lbs. 

There  is  not  much  ^;ame  to  be  had 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
Darjeeling,  but  to  the  able  pedestrian, 


the  botanist,  the  lover  of  the  pieti 
esque,  there  are  endless 

Exonnions  to  be  made  on  foot 

(1.)  A  good  rider,  or  strong  Alpj 
climber,  may  make  an  interesting 
pedition  of  4  days  by  Tongluto  Fhal] 
m  the  heart  of  the  snows.  The  " 
tances  are  to 

Tonglu  (10,070  ft.),  23  m.;  thenca 

/S^t^n^i^Ao  (11,975  ft),  15  m.(paa8| 

Kala  Pohri  (10,130  ft)) ;  thence 

PhaUut  (11,811  ft),  13  m.  (pasai 

SufmrHm  (11,684  ft.)).     The    ' 

are  magnificent    There  is  a  good  \X 

at  each  of  the  above  stations.    H 

visions  and  bedding  must  be  taken, 

(2.)  Another  very  fiivourite 
interesting  excursion  is  to 
Bridge  over  the  Oreat  BanjU  RH 
6000  ft  below.  An  excellent  road 
been  made,  by  which  the  whole 
can  be  easily  performed  on  ponies, 
distence  by  the  road  being  11m.  ' 
zones  of  vegetetion  are  clearly  marli 
first  by  the  oak,  chestnut,  and  id 
nolia,  which  grow  from  10,000  ft 
7000  ft ;  secondly,  below  6600  ft 
the  AUophUa  gigantea  or  tree-fern 
be  seen  from  the  Himalayas  to  \ 
Malayan  Peninsula,  Java,  and  in  0 
Ion) ;  thirdly,  by  the  CSalamus 
Plectooomia  palms  (6500  ft.  is 
upper  limit  of  palms  in  Sikkii 
fourthly,  by  the  wild  plantain,  wU 
in  lower  elevations  is  replaced  b| 
larger  kind.  At  1000  ft  below  Darj( 
ing  is  a  fine  wooded  spur  called  Liboi 
where  EngUsh  fruit  trees  flourish,  a 
the  tea-plant  also  succeeds  adminb 
Below  is  the  village  of  Ging,  surroun(^ 
by  steeps  cultivated  principally  w 
tea,  also  with  rice,  maize,  and  xnillet ' 

At  10  m.  distance  from  Daijeeling 
is  the  junction  of  the  Banjit  wUk  tk 
Baogmo.  The  Banjit's  foaming  streafl^ 
runs  through  a  dense  forest  Ftom  th^ 
opposite  direction  the  Bangmo  comet 
tearing  down  from  the  top  of  Senchal, 
7000  n.  above.  Its  roar  is  heard  and 
its  course  is  visible,  but  its  channel  k 
so  deep  that  the  stream  itself  is  no- 
where seen. 

Farther  down  is  the  jtmetum  ^  * 
Banjit  vjiih  the  Teesta,  which  is 


ROUTE  20a.       CALCUTTA  TO  DIBRUGARH 


273 


green  and  muddy,  while  the  Great 
Ranjit  is  dark  green  and  very  clear. 
The  Teesta  is  .  mnch  the  broader, 
deeper,  and  more  rapid.  This  expedi- 
I  tion  will  take  two  days. 

If  time  permits,  it  is  well  worth 
|i  following  down  the  Teesta  valley  to 
^Silliguri  (see  above)  instead  of  return- 
ing by  train  from  Darjeeling. 

(3.)  Senchal,  8610  ft.,  is  clearly  seen 
'  from  Jelapahar,  and  is  about  6  m.  off. 
[It  used  to  be  a  depdt  for  European 
troops.  The  water  for  Darjeeling  is 
taken  in  pipes  from  the  Senchal  springs. 
An  expedition  may  be  made  to  it,  start- 
'  ing  early  in  the  morning.  It  is  com- 
paratively easy  of  access,  and  from  Jela- 
pahar the  path  along  the  ridge  of  the 
mountains  may  be  seen.  This  path 
,  abounds  in  rare  and  beautiful  plants, 
«nd  traverses  ma^ificent  forests  of 
oak,  ma^olia,  and  rhododendron. 

Oaks,  laurels,  maples,  birch,  chestnut, 
::  hydrangea,  a  species  of  fig,  and  three 
Chinese  and  Japanese  kinds,  are  the 
{ principal  trees ;  the  common  bushes 
^Deing  Aucuba,  Skimmia,  and  the 
-curious  Helwingia,  with  little  clusters 
of  flowers  on  the  centre  of  the  leaf, 
rlike  Butcher's  Broom.  In  spring  im- 
^mense  broad -leaved  arums  spring  up, 
t  with  green  or  purple-striped  hoods 
fthat  end  in  tail -like  threads,  18  in. 
[long,  which  lie  along  the  ground  ;  and 
I  there  are  various  kinds  of  Convallaria, 
[Paris,  Begonia,  and  other  beautiful 
I  flowering  herbs.  Nearly  thirty  ferns 
[may  be  gathered  on  this  excursion, 
[including  many  of  great  beauty  and 
I  rarity,  but  the  tree-fern  does  not  ascend 
80  high.  Grasses  are  very  rare  in 
i  these  woods,  except  the  dwarf  bamboo, 
now  cultivated  in  the  open  air  in 
Enfjland. 


[India] 


ROUTE    20a 

The  Assam  Valley  and  Brahma- 
putra —  Calcutta  to  Dibru- 
oarh  by  Gauhati  (for  Shillono). 

j^  The  Assam  Valley 

A  traveller  wishing  to  visit  the  As- 
sam valley,  if  unencumbered  with  heavy 
luggage  and  not  averse  to  many  changes 
of  conveyance,  will  find  the  mail  route 
the  most  expeditious.  Whether  coming 
from  Calcutta  or  Darjeeling,  he  leaves 
the  main  line  of  the  Eastern  Bengal 
Railway  at  Paxbatipnr  junc.  sta.  (see 
Rte.  20)  and  proceeds  along  the  branch 
line  E.  to 

23  m.  Rongpore  sta.,  D.B. 

83  m.  Eannia  sta.,  D.B.,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Teesta  river.  Here  there  is  a 
wide  ferry  to 

Teesta,  D.B.,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
river  (a  line  branches  N.  to  Magalhat 
in  J  hr.)  The  Eastern  Bengal  Ely. 
(northern  section)  continues  E.  by  tram- 
ways, with  changes  at  river-crossings 
according  to  the  season  of  the  year,  to 
Kurigram,  on  the  Dharla  river,  and  to 

Jatrapur,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Brahmaputra  river.  Here  the  River 
Steam  Navigation  Co.'s  well-appointed 
steamers  ^  are  in  readiness  to  take  pas- 
sengers and  mails  on  board.  These 
steamers  touch  at  the  civil  station  of 

Dhubri,  3^  D.  B. ,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Brahmaputra  river,  in  lat.  26"  2'  N., 
and  long.  90*  2'  E.,  at  the  point  where 
the  great  river  leaves  the  Assam  valley 
and  turns  S.  towards  the  Bay  of  Bengal. 
The  steamer  reaches  Goalpara  about 

1  These  steamers,  or  others  in  connection 
with  them,  start  daily  every  morning  from 
the  terminus  of  the  E.  Bengal  Rlv.  at  Goa- 
lundo  Ghat  (see  Bte.  20b)  for  Dhubri,  where 
passengers  change  on  to  the  mail  steamer. 
This  rente  into  Assam  (though  many  hours 
longer)  is  ^referred  by  some  to  that  via  Rung- 
pore  and  Kaunia,  as  it  avoids  the  crossing  of 
the  two  great  rivers,  the  Teesta  and  the 
Dharla,  and  the  consequent  changing  and  re- 
ohanirtng  from  trains  to  ferry-boata. 

T 


274 


ROUTE  20a.      CALCUTTA  TO  DIBRUOARH 


India 


noon  the  day  after  leaving  Dhubri,  and 
OauhcUi  the  following  night  The 
traveller  can  proceed  the  next  day  to 
Tezpore,  the  day  after  to  NigrUing  for 
Manipur,  and  about  24  hrs.  later  he 
will  reach  jDihrugar\  the  present  limit 
to  the  navigation. 

The  Brahmaputra  River 

The  time  occupied  in  a  journey  up 
the  Assam  valley  is  so  considerable, 
that  travellers  are  not  recommended 
to  undertake  it  if  they  have  no  interest 
in  the  Province  or  no  friend  to  visit. 
If  they  do  ascend  the  river,  they  must 
remember  that  the  cold  wind  caused 
by  the  movement  of  the  vessel  is  most 
penetrating,  and  warm  clothes  are 
absolutely  necessary.  The  scenery, 
however,  in  many  places  is  striking: 
on  the  rt.  (1.  bank)  are  the  Garo  Hilb, 
and  away  on  the  1.  the  grand  range  of 
the  Himalayas,  and  the  wooded  Bhutan 
Hills  in  the  middle  distance:  the  snowy 
range  is  kept  in  sight  all  the  way  up 
the  river,  and  is  seen  to  special  advan- 
tage at  sunrise.  At  Goalpara,  D.B., 
situated  at  the  foot  of  a  conical  hill  (1. 
bank),  may  be  seen  picturesque  native 
merchants  and  wild  hill  tribesmen,  who 
come  down  from  the  mountains  to  trade 
in  skins,  etc.  Near  the  little  station  of 
Qauhati,  if.  D.  B.  (1.  bank),  the  scenery  is 
beautiful  The  river  there  assumes  the 
appearance  of  an  extensive  lake  with 
mountainous  and  wooded  shores,  but 
except  at  Goalpara,  Gauhati,  and  two 
or  three  other  places  there  are  no  per- 
manent buildings  on  the  banks  or  any- 
where in  sight.  On  the  sandbanks 
alligators  are  to  be  seen  basking  in  the 
sun.  Close  to  Gauhati  is  Peacock  Island 
in  the  middle  of  the  river  with  a  temple 
upon  it,  and  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  station  there  is  another  temple  at 
the  top  of  a  hill,  approached  by  nights 
of  steep  steps  which  wind  round  to  the 
summit. 

[There  is  a  very  good  road  63  m.  from 
Gauhati  S.  to   . 

Shillong,  39c  D.  B. ,  the  headquarters  of 
the  Assam  Grovernment,  and  a  military 
cantonment.  The  road-side  vegetation 
in  itself  makes  this  journey  a  x)leasure. 


There  is  a  daily  tonga- ponv-service  in 
8  hr.  to  Shillong,  but  if  the  traveller 
desires  to  be  independent,  he  should 
engage  a  tonga  beforehand  by  address- 
ing the  manager  of  tonga  service  at 
GauhatL  There  are  small  D.Bs.  at 
Bami  Hat,  16  m.,  at  Naya  Bungalow, 
45  m.,  and  Borpani,  54  m. ;  and  at  the 
half-way  house,  Kangpoh,  there  is  a 
very  comfortable  bungalow,  with  ser- 
vants and  all  necessaries.  After  the 
last  bungalow  at  Borpani  the  ascent 
becomes  nearly  continuous,    and  the 

f)ine  forests  {Pinus  Kasya)  give  the 
andscape  a  European  appearance. 
Height  of  Shillong  is  4900  ft  above 
sea-level.  Average  rainfsdl  87*44  in. 
The  temperature  seldom  reaches  80° 
F.  There  is  an  almost  total  absence 
of  mist,  the  great  drawback  of  Indian 
hill-stations.  These  circumstances  make 
Shillong  one  of  the  most  desirable  hill 
residences  in  India.] 

About  75  m.  above  Gauhati  is  Texpon 
(rt  bank),  D.B.,  and  about  the  same 
distance  farther  is  NigritiBg  (1.  bank). 

[Here  passengers  for  (2101  m.)  Mani- 
pur  leave  the  steamer.  There  is  a  good 
road  to  (17  m.)  Oolaghat,  thence  to 
Samagating  in  67  m.,  good  road,  ex- 
cept during  the  rains,  through  dense 
jungle.  34  m.  farther  is  Kohima, 
tolerable  road  but  hilly,  and  92J  m. 
beyond,  through  hUly  but  well  culti- 
vated country,  is 

Manipnr,  the  scene  of  the  lament- 
able disaster  in  1891,  when  Mr.  Grim- 
wood  the  Resident,  Mr.  Quinton  the 
Commissioner,  with  several  British 
officers  and  their  men,  were  treacher- 
ously massacred  by  the  natives.  The 
game  of  hockey  on  horseback  was 
tormerly  almost  peculiar  to  Mauipur, 
but  has  now  become  popular  in  India 
and  England  under  the  name  of  polo. 
The  Manipur  valley  being  2500  ft 
above  the  sea  eigoys  a  temperate 
climate. 

Manipur  can  also  be  approached  from 
Caohar  (see  p.  276).] 

At  Dibrugarh,  D.B.  (about  70  m.  N.E. 
of  Nigriting),  there  are  thousands  of 
acres  under  tea-cultivation,  traversed  by 
a  railroad  which  runs  through  tiie  dis- 


ROUTE  20b.   CALCUTTA  TO  DACCA  AND  SYLHBT  VALLEY 


275 


arict  The  Coal  Mines  in  the  neigh- 
>ourhood  are  extensive  and  are  said  to 
>e  unique  of  their  kind,  and  there  are 
lIso  Petroleum  Springs. 

Tea  PlantatioTis 

There  are  centres  of  Tea-growing  all 
long  the  upper  Brahmaputra  valley. 

The  first  of  importance  is  Tezpore, 
:bout  250  m.  above  Dhubri.  From 
;here  they  extend  all  the  way  as  far 
18  Dibmgarh. 

Persons  who  wish  to  visit  the  Tea- 
listricts  should  furnish  themselves  with 
introductions  ^  to  some  of  the  planters, 
who  are  very  glad  to  receive  visitors 
properly  accredited.  There  are  numer- 
)us  D.Bs.  scattered  over  the  country, 
Hdth  bridle-roads  to  all,  and  driving- 
roads  to  most  of  the  Tea-gardens  from 
the  stations  on  the  Brahmaputra.  A 
note  to  the  manager  of  an  estate  en- 
dosing  an  introduction  would  ensure 
the  visitor  being  met  at  the  station  by 
I  carriage.  If  the  traveller  wishes  to 
be  independent,  !t  is  a  good  plan  to 
take  a  pony  up  from  Calcutta  (via 
Groalundo)  and  ride  from  one  plantation 
to  another  throughout  the  district :  the 
Dwner  will  have  no  difficulty  in  selling 
it,  if  it  is  a  good  one,  before  he  returns. 


ROUTE   20b 

Calcutta    to    Dacca   and   Stlhet 
Valley  by  Goalundo  and  Nar- 

AINGANJ. 

Dacca  and  the  Sylhet  VaZley. 
[For  line  from  Calcutta  to  Poradaha 
June.  sta.  (103  m.)  see  Rte.  20.] 

150  m.  Qoalundo  Ghat,  sta.,  the 
terminus  of  the  Eastern  Bengal  Rail- 
way, is  close  to  the  junction  of  the 
Ganges  and  Brahmaputra  rivers,  which 

1  From  personal  friends  or  txova.  the  London 
fend  Calcutta  agents. 


below  this  point  are  called  the  Meghna 
river,  and  form  a  very  large  body  of 
water  several  miles  across. 

Goalundo  has  no  permanent  build- 
ings, as  the  river  banks  at  this  point 
have  for  many  years  past  changed  con- 
stantly and  destroyed  everything  that 
has  been  built. 

**  During  the  rains  the  forces  work 
with  uncontrollable  fury.  The  new 
(railway)  terminus  at  Goalundo  has 
suffered  from  a  disastrous  accident. 
Up  to  1875  the  Goalundo  station  stood 
upon  a  massive  embankment  near  the 
water's  edge,  protected  by  masonry 
spurs  running  out  to  the  river.  About 
£130,000  had  been  spent  upon  these 
protective  works,  and  it  was  hoped 
that  engineering  skill  had  conquered 
the  violence  of  the  Gangetic  floods. 
But  in  August  1875  the  solid  masonry 
spurs,  the  railway  station,  and  the 
magistrates'  court,  were  all  swept  away, 
and  deep  water  covered  their  site.  A 
new  Goalundo  terminus  had  to  be 
erected  2  m.  inland  from  the  former 
river-bank"  (Hunter). 

There  are  plenty  of  native  boats  at 
Goalundo,  and  a  regular  daily  service 
by  steamer  to  Narainganj  (104  m.) ; 
and  also  to  Cha/ndpwr  for  Chittagong 
and  Assam. 

254  m.Narainganj,  D.B.  (pop.  13,000), 
is  the  port  of  Dacca,  and  the  terminus 
of  the  Narainganj-Dacca-Myinensing 
JRaUtvay.  There  are  several  old  forts  in 
the  neighbourhood,  built  by  Mir  Jumla 
in  the  17  th  century ;  and  almost  opposite 
stands  the  Kadam  Basul,  a  small 
mosque  held  in  gi*eat  repute  by  the 
local  Mohammedans. 

[10  m.  Dacca  sta.,a«c  D.B.  (83,760 
inhab.),  was  formerly  a  city  of  great 
importance,  but  has  fallen  into  decay 
owing  to  the  fact  .  that  the  river- 
system  of  this  part  of  India  has  com- 
pletely changed/  within  this  century, 
and  Dacca,  once  the  capital  of  Bengal, 
is  now  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the 
Province  by  a  vast  body  of  water  diffi- 
cult and  often  dangerous  to  navigate  in 
small  craft. 

Th^  city  looks  well  from  the  river, 
having  many  fine  modern  buildings 
facing  the  stream.  First  there  is  the 
House  of  a  rich  Bindu  Seih^  then  ooxnes 


276 


ROUTE  20b.       OALOUTTA  TO  DACOA  AND  STLHET  VALLEY        India 


what  was  the  House  of  Zamindar  JFyse, 
an  Englishman  who  acquired  a  Urge 
fortune,  and  possessed  extraordinary 
influence ;  not  fiear  off  is  the  Falace  of 
the  Naioabf  whose  family  is  one  of 
the  most  distinguished  in  Bengal,  and 
celebrated  for  their  charitable  acts. 
Beyond  the  palace  is  the  Mitford 
Hospital,  a  fine  building. 

The  two  principal  streets  of  the  city 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  One 
extends  from  the  Lai  Bagh  palace  to 
the  Dolai  creek,  and  is  over  2  m.  long. 
It  runs  parallel  to  the  river,  and  has 
branch  streets  leading  to  the  landing- 
places.  The  other  leads  to  the  canton- 
ment K.  of  the  town,  and  is  1^  m. 
long.  At  the  junction  of  the  streets  is 
a  square,  with  a  garden  in  the  centre. 
The  Church  is  100  yds,  S.  of  the  Com- 
missioner's house. 

At  ^  m.  from  the  church  is  the  well- 
kept  Cemetery.  It  contains  a  small 
tank,  and  some  fine  trees.  In  the  centre 
is  a  handsome  stone  gateway,  which 
marks  the  limit  of  the  old  cemetery. 
The  older  tombs  are  within  this  gate- 
way. There  is  a  finely  sculptured 
mausoleum  here  40  ft.  high,  with 
columns  of  a  peculiar  kind,  probably 
the  tomb  of  some  Mohammedan  of 
rank.  In  1576,  when  Akbar's  generals 
reduced  Bengal,  Sunhargaon  was  the 
chief  commercial  city  ;  the  Emperor 
Jehangir  made  Dacca  the  residence  of 
the  governor,  and  called  the  city  Jehan- 
gimagar. 

Notwithstanding  the  riches  and 
celebrity  of  Dacca,  there  are  few  old 
buildings  of  any  importance  left.  On 
the  S.  bank  of  the  river,  near  the  centre 
of  the  city,  is  the  great  Katra  (built 
in  1645  A.D.,  according  to  Hunter), 
which  means  "arched  building."  It 
bears  an  inscription  with  the  date  1625. 
The  small  Katra  was  built  by  Amiru'l 
umra  Shaistah  Ehan,  in  1663.  To  the 
E.  of  the  town  is  the  LaZ  Bagh,  begun 
by  Muhammad  'Azim,  son  of  Shah 
Jehan,  in  1677,  and  probably  never 
finished.  The  walls  are  of  red  brick, 
and  very  solid. 

The  Fort  was  built  by  Ibrahim  Khan, 
the  fifth  Mogul  governor,  in  1690.  In 
1712  J'afar  Khan  removed  the  court  to 
Murshedabad* 


A  considerable  quantity  of  gold  and 
silver  plate  of  original  design  and 
excellent  workmanship  is  stiU  made  at 
Dacca,  chiefly  for  export  to  Calcutta ; 
also  gold  and  silver  filigree  work  of 
great  excellence.  The  manufacture  of 
shell  bracelets  is  a  speciality. 

The  once  celebrated  Dacca  nrnsUns 
— abrawan,  or  "  running  water,"  hafi- 
howa,  or  "woven  air,"  suWuinamy  or 
**  evening  dew  " — are  almost  a  thing  d 
the  past ;  and  the  demand  in  Europe 
for  the  old  cotton  flowered  and  sprigged 
muslin  has  almost  entirely  fallen  oS. 
But  there  is  a  brisk  and  increasing 
demand  for  tussore  embroidered  muslins 
{kcundas) ;  and  other  kinds  of  muslin, 
striped  (dorias),  checkered  {eharkana\ 
and  figured  (jamdani),  are  still  made 
here. 

The  most  pleasant  drive  at  Dacca  is 
round  the  Race-course,  about  1  m.  W. 
of  the  church.  S.  of  it  is  a  fine  count/j 
villa  belonging  to  the  Nawab. 

Dacca  is  a  good  place  for  Fig-sUekins 
and  Tiger-shooting.  TThere  are  exteD- 
sive  ruins  at  Sunhargaon,  but  they  can 
be  visited  only  on  an  elephant. 

Much  of  the  country  about  Dacca  is  j 
under  water  in  the  rainy  season,  from 
June  to  October.  I 

The  rly.  from  Dacca  proceeds  N.  to  \ 

85  m.  VLymenBing  sta.  (B.)] 

There  is  a  daily  steamer  from  Nar- 
ainganj  N.E.  to  Fenchuganj  in  Sylhet 
District,  the  head  of  the  navigation  on 
the  Kusiara  river  in  dry  weather.  The  , 
journey  occupies  2  days.  (FenchugaaJ 
is  in  a  direct  line  14  m.  S.  of  Sylhet) 
In  dry  weather  it  is  necessary  to  take 
country  boats  from  here  to  Caduff 
(Silchar). 

In  the  rainy  season  there  is  direct 
steamer  communication  between  Nar- 
ainganj  as  far  as  Cachar.  [From 
Cachar  to  Manipur  (see  Rte.  20a)  the 
distance  is  108  m.  ;  there  are  seyeral 
officers'  Best  Houses  *  along  this  rte., 
but  the  road,  in  places,  is  Uttle  better 
than  a  jungle  track.]  In  connection 
with  the  daily  service  a  steamer  runs 
once  or  twice  a  week,  in  one  day  from 
Cachar  to  Chatack,  D.  B.,  the  head  of 
the  dry -weather  navigation  of  titf 
Surma  riven 


R0T7TE  21.       CALCtTTTA  TO  FTTRI  AND  CUTTACK 


277 


From  Chatack  a  boat  (sometiines 
steamer)  takes  a  traveller  in  half  a  day 
to  Companygwnj^  whence  there  is  a  steam 
tramway  to  Teria  (7Aflrf,D.B.,at  the  foot 
of  the  Khasia  Hills.  At  this  place  there 
is  a  small  D.B.  From  Teria  Ghatto 
CherrarPunjis^,  D.B.,  on  the  crest  of 
the  hill,  there  is  a  good  bnt  very  feteep 
bridle-path.  The  distance  is  10  m.,  the 
ascent  4500  ft  Special  arrangements 
would  have  to  be  made  for  ponies,  but 
coolies  can  be  got  at  Teria  in  the 
morning. 

From  May  to  October  the  traveller 
must  expect  heavy  rain  on  the  southern 
face  of  the  Khasia  Hills,  and  all  baggace, 
specially  bedding,  must  be  propeny 
protected  by  waterproof  covering  of 
some  sort.  The  nature  of  the  rain  can 
be  understood  by  the  fact  that  the 
average  yearly  fall  measured  at  Cherra- 
Punji  from  1877  to  1881  was  463  in. 
The  heaviest  recorded  rainfall  in  the 
world  is  said  to  have  occurred  here  on 
June  16,  1876,  when  40*80  in.  fell  in 
24  hours  ;  during  1861  the  total  rain- 
fall was  806  in.  There  is  a  good  seam 
of  coal  from  3 J  to  4  ft.  at  Cherra-Punji. 

The  distance  to  Shillong  (see  p. 
274)  is  32  m.  by  a  good  road.  A  tonsa 
I  may  be  obtained  by  addressinc;  the 
i  manager  of  tonga  service  at  ShiBong. 
There  is  a  small  D.B.  at  Serarim^  8  m. 
from  Cherra-Punji,  and  a  ^ood  one  at 
Dwnpep,  half-way  to  Shillong.  The 
journey  from  Teria  to  Shillong  is  fatigu- 
mg,  and  the  traveller  may  have  to 
rough  it  and  to  wait  in  some  discom- 
fort the  arrival  of  his  luggage  at  the 
dijQferent  stages,  but  the  scenery  is 
magnificent  and  the  climate  very  de- 
lightful. Warm  wraps  are  absolutely 
necessary. 

Shillong  is  much  more  conveniently 
reached  from  the  N.  via  Dhubri,  the 
Brahmaputra  river,  and  Gauhati,  as 
described  in  Rte.  20a. 

There  is  a  regular  service  of  steamers 
from  Goalunda,  in  connection  with  the 
train  from  Calcutta,  for  Chandptt/r^ 
whence  the  Assam  Bengal  Railway 
runs  to 

31  m.  IiakBa.ni  Junction  sta.  Here 
the  S.  branch  of  the  line  runs  to 

80  m.  Chittagong  sta.  the  S.  ter- 
minus.    It  is  the  chief  town  of  the 


district  of  the  same  name,  and  is  in 
the  Bengal  Province.  The  Chittagong 
district  came  into  British  possession 
by  cession  in  1760.  The  town  is  very 
unhealthy.  The  port  is  one  of  the 
best  in  India,  and  its  trade,  already 
considerable,  is  rapidly  increasing. 

From  Laksam  Junction  the  rail  runs 
K,  passing  (16  m.)  Comilla,  (98  m.) 
Srimangal,  to 

159  m.  Earimganj  sta.  the  present 
terminus. 


ROUTE  21 

Calcittta  by  False  Point  to  Puri 
(Jagannath),  Black  Pagoda 
Bhuvaneshwar,  and  Cuttack. 

From  Calcutta  the  traveller  will  pro- 
ceed by  sea  either  to  Puri  direct,  or  to 
False  Point  Harbour,  thence  by  road 
to  Barano  Sta.,  where  rail  may  be 
taken  to  Puri  via  Khurda  Road. 

There  is  a  rly.  from  Calcutta  to  Dia- 
mond Harbour  (38  m.  in  2  to  8  hrs.) 
The  steamer  will  probably  anchor  for 
the  first  day  at  Kedgeree,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Hooghly,  and  will  reach  False 
Point  the  next  evening.  From  Novem- 
ber till  the  middle  of  March  the  sea  is 
generally  calm,  with  light  winds,  an^ 
it  is  during  this  period  Qiat  the  voyage 
should  be  made ;  after  that  the  si^ 
becomes  very  heavy  along  the  coast, 
and  sometimes  excessively  dangerous. 

False  Point  Harbour.  —  Large 
steamers  are  obliged  to  lie  out  at  some 
distance  from  ite  mouth.  For  small 
vessels  the  harbour  is  safe  and  conveni- 
ent, being  formed  by  two  spits — Long 
Island  and  Dowdeswell  Island.  The 
Harbour-master's  house  is  now  2  m. 
from  Point  Ready,  at  the  end  of  the 
spit,  and  the  station  is  called  Hookey- 
toUah,  at  which  there  is  a  post  and 
telegraph  office.  Hookeytollah  was 
completely  washed  away,  and  the 
Harbour-master,  his  wife,  and  3  chil- 
dren, most  of  his  staff,  and  about  90 

It  is  important  for  the  traveller  to  know 
that  the  through  rlf.  line  from  Calcutta  to 
Madras  (via  Outtack  junction  for  Pari)  was 
opened  shortly  before  this  edition  was  sent 
to  press ;  It  is  therefore  taa  better  now  to 
make  the  journey  to  Pari  by  nil  than  by  sea. 


278 


ROUTE  21.       OAIiCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  OUTTAOK 


India 


natives,  were  drowned  by  the  Cjdone 
Wave  of  the  22d  September  1886.  The 
station  has  since  been  rebuilt,  and  a 
large  masonir  refuge  house  surrounded 
with  a  good  bund  faced  with  stone  has 
been  erected,  also  a  D.B. 

From  Point  Palmyras  to  False  Point 
Light  is  only  about  30  m.  as  the  crow 
iiies,  and  False  Point  Lighthouse  is  now 
6^  m.  as  the  crow  flies  from  Point  Ready. 

The  locality  derives  its  name  from 
the  circumstance  that  ships  proceeding 
N.  frequently  mistook  it  for  Point 
Palmyras,  a  degree  farther  N.  A 
Lighthouse  has  been  erected  about 
4  m.  as  the  crow  flies  from  Point 
Beady.  This  lighthouse  is  built  of 
reddish  granite,  with  a  large  white 
star  in  the  centre,  and  is  129  ft.  high. 
It  was  lighted  in  1838,  and  has  a  white 
flashing  light.  False  Point  Light  is 
now  a  first  order  Dioptric  Occulting 
Light,  visible  26  sees.,  and  dark  4  sees., 
and  can  be  seen  19  m. 

In  the  dense  jungle  round  the  light- 
house tigers  are  to  be  found,  but  should 
not  be  tracked  except  in  the  company 
of  experienced  hunters.  The  alligators 
are  of  prodigious  size,  sometimes  30 
ft.  in  length.  One  was  killed  with 
40  lbs.  weight  of  women's  bangles  in 
its  stomach ;  two  of  these  bangles 
jveigh  1  lb.  There  are  excellent  fish 
m  the  harbour,  but  few  or  no  fisher- 
men. Good  oysters  are  obtainable  in 
the  harbour.  It  is  not  possible  to 
proceed  to  Puri  (Jagannatn)  by  land 
from  Dowdeswell  Island,  as  the  Devi 
and  4  other  rivers  intervene.  There 
is  no  regular  accommodation  of  any 
description  for  travellers  at  False  Point, 
but  a  steam  launch  from  Cuttack  (65 
m.  from  the  harbour)  generally  meets 
the  weekly  steamers  from  Qalcutta, 
which  invariably  touch  at  False  Point ; 
but  even  on  this  launch  passengers 
have  to  supply  their  own  food,  as  none 
is  carried  on  board. 

Failing  the  launch  there  are,  how- 
ever, plenty  of  mcLssulah  boats,  which 
come  off  to  ships  unless  the  surf  be 
very  bad  indeed.  Even  in  the  calmest 
weather  the  surf  extends  about  80  yds. , 
and  the  boat  is  thrown  up  at  such  an 
angle,  that  it  appears  as  if  the  crew 
must  be  precipitated  into  the  water. 


PXIBI,3^  D.B.  The  distance  from 
False  Point  Harbour  to  Puri  is  68  m. 
There  is  no  shelter  whatever  for  a  vessel 
at  Puri.  The  Circuit  House  is  near  the 
D.B.  ;  it  is  roomy,  and  Englishmeo 
are  sometimes  allowed  to  stop  there. 
The  Church  is  about  80  yds.  distant 

The  town  of  Puri  is  about  1^  m.  in 
breadth  from  E.  to  W.,  that  is,  from 
the  sea  to  the  Madhupur  river,  and 
3^  m.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  that  is,  from 
Balikhand  to  Loknath  Temple.  The 
pop.  is  22,000.  But  during  the  gi 
festivals  this  number  is  increas^  by 
100,000  pilgrims.  The  town  coven 
an  area  of  1871  acres,  including  the 
Kshetra,  or  sacred  precincts.  It  is  a 
city  of  lodging-houses,  and  the  streets 
are  mean  and  narrow,  except  the  Bara- 
dand,  or  road  for  the  Rath  of  Jagan- 
nath,  when  he  goes  from  his  temple  to 
his  country-house.  This  road  mm 
through  the  centre  of  the  town  N.  and 
S.,  and  is  in  places  ^  furlong  wide. 
The  town  is  destitute  of  commeoroe, 
and  is  entirely  maintained  by  tin 
income  of  the  Great  Temple,  and 
the  offerings  made  to  it.  The  c 
dowments  of  the  temple  provide 
total  annual  income  of  £31,000 ;  and 
the  offerings  of  pilgrims  amount  to 
at  least  £37,000  a  year  ;  no  one  comes 
empty-handed.  The  richer  pilgrims 
heap  gold  and  silver  and  jewels  at 
the  feet  of  the  god,  or  spread  before 
him  charters  and  title-deeds,  convey- 
ing lands  in  distant  provinces.  Every 
one,  from  the  richest  to  the  poorest, 
gives  beyond  his  ability  ;  many  cripple 
their  fortunes  for  the  rest  of  their  lives ; 
and  thousands  die  on  the  way  home,  i 
Ranjit  Sing  bequeathed  the  Koh-i-Nnr 
to  Jagannath,  though  fortunately  it 
never  reached  its  destination.  There 
are  more  than  6000  male  adults  as 
priests,  warders  of  the  temple,  and 
pilgrim  guides,  and,  including  the  mon- 
astic establishments,  and  the  gaides 
who  roam  through  India  to  escort  pil- 
grims, there  are  probably  not  less  than 
20,000  men,  women,  and  children  de- 
pendent on  Jagannath.  The  immediate 
attendants  on  the  god  are  divided  into  36 
orders  and  07  classes.  At  the  head  of 
all  is  the  Rajah  of  Khurdha,  who  re- 
presents the  royal  house  of  Orissa,  and 


ROUTE  21.       JAGANNATH 


279 


w1h>  is  the  hereditary  sweeper  of  the 
temple.  There  are  distinct  sets  of 
servants  to  put  the  god  to  bed,  to  dress 
and  bathe  him,  and  a  numerous  band 
of  nautch  girls,  who  sing  before  the  idol. 
Jagannath  (Jnggumath)  (Sansc.  = 
"  Lord  of  the  Universe  ")  is  a  name  of 
Krishna,  worshipped  as  Vishnu  at  the 
famous  shrine  of  Puri,  in  Orissa.     The 


pilgrims  rush  forward  to  draw  it,  some 
may  have  fallen  accidentally  beneath  its 
wheels.  In  some  instances  also  votar- 
ies have  been  known  to  throw  them- 
selves beneath  the  advancing  wheels, 
giving  rise  to  the  popular  notices  of 
the  Car  of  Jagannath.  The  number  of 
such  suicides,  however,  has  been  greatly 
and   since  Orissa   cmae 


Scale  200  ft' to  die^ieli. 

Temple  of  Jagannath  (from  Fergusson's  Indian  Arch.) 


image  so  called  is  an  amorphous  idol, 
a  rudely  carved  log,^  which  some  learned 
men  believe  to  have  been  a  Buddhist 
symbol:  it  has  been  adopted  as  an  object 
of  Brahmanical  worship.  This  idol  is 
annually  dragged  in  procession  on  a 
monstrous  car,  and  as  crowds  of  fanatic 

1  Strictly  speaking,  there  are  three  of  these 
disgusting  idols,  viz.  Jagannath,  his  brother 
Balabhadra,  and  his  sister  Subhadra. 


under  British  rule  the  number  has  been 
much  reduced.  In  1818  Mr.  Stirling 
the  Resident  had  witnessed  only  three 
instances  of  such  immolation  during 
four  years.  The  annual  mortality  of 
the  pilgrims  amounts  to  thousands,  but 
it  arises  from  the  pestilential  air  of  Puri, 
from  famine,  and  poverty. 

The  Temple  is  situated  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  nearly  1  m.,  as  the  crow 


280 


ROUTE  2 1.   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  CUTTACK 


India 


flies,  from  the  D.B.  It  stands  upon 
rising  ground,  which  is  called  Nilmri, 
or  the  Blue  Hill,  and  is  surroundea  by 
a  square  enclosing  stone  wall  about  20 
ft.  high,  with  a  gateway  in  the  centre 
of  each  side.  The  E.  gate  is  always 
open.  Within  is  a  second  enclosure 
surrounded  by  a  double  wall  having  an 
interval  of  11  ft  between  the  walls,  and 
within  this  again  is  the  temple  proper. 
The  Hall  of  Offerings,  or  Bog  Mandir 
(D),^  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the 
Marathas  in  the  last  century,  at  a  cost 
of  40  lakhs  of  rs.  It  was  part  of  the 
Black  Paffoda  of  Eonarak,  and  was 
brooght  thence  by  them.  The  Natk 
Mandir  (C),  or  dancing-hall,  also  of 
late  date,  is  a  square  hall  measuring 
69  ft.  X  67  ft.  inside.  The  walls  are 
plain,  with  only  two  figures  of  dwarpals, 
called  Jaya  and  Yijaya,  and  a  marble 
figure  of  Garuda,  2  ft.  high. 

The  Jagamokan  (B),  or  Hall  of 
Audience,  where  the  pilgrims  see  the 
idols,  is  80  ft.  sq.  and  120  ft.  high. 
The  Baradewal  (A),  or  Sanctuary, 
where  the  idols  are,  is  also  80  ft.  sq. 
This  part  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
conical  tower  or  vimanah. 

The  idols  themselves,  that  is  to 
say,  Jagannath,  with  his  brother 
Balabhadra  and  his  sister  Subhadra, 
are  frightful  logs,  without  hands  or 
feet,  coarsely  carved  into  a  wretched 
likeness  of  the  human  bust  The 
tower  is  192  ft.  high,  black  with  time, 
and  surmounted  bv  the  Wheel  and 
Flag  of  Vishnu.  The  date  of  its  erec- 
tion is  1198,  and  it  cost  about  half  a 
million  sterling  ;  but  it  has  since  been 
repeatedly  repaired,  to  "the  ruin  of  the 
temple  as  a  work  of  art." 

The  only  beautiful  thing  to  be 
seen  at  Puri  is  an  exquisite  Pillar 
brought  from  the  Black  Pagoda  at 
Konarak.  It  stands  outside  the  Lion 
or  E.  gate  of  Jagannath's  temple,  on  a 
platform  of  rough  stones,  and  reckon- 
ing to  the  top  of  the  seated  figure  of 
Aruna,  or  the  Dawn,  which  surmounts 
it,  is  35  ft.  hi^h.  The  Lion  Gate, 
on  entering  which  the  pilgrims  are 
slightly  struck  with  a  wand  by  an 
official,  has  its  name  from  two  large 

1  These  letters  refer  to  corresponding 
letters  on  the  plan. 


lions  of  the '  conventional  form,  with 
one  paw  raised,  which  stand  one  at 
either  side  of  the  entrance.  As  the 
door  stands  open,  it  is  possible  to  see 
the  bands  of  pilgrims  within,  but  not 
the  temples,  of  which,  besides  the  Great 
Pagoda,  there  are  more  than  100,  13 
of  them  being  sacred  to  Shiva.  There 
is  also  a  temple  to  the  Sun. 

There  is  a  street  about  45  ft.  broad 
all  round  the  temple  enclosure.  Turn- 
ing  to  the  left,  from  the  Lion.  Gate 
along  this  road,  the  visitor  comes  to 
the  ».  gate,  where  steps  lead  up  to  the 
entrance.  The  entrance  itself  is  15  ft. 
high,  which  is  ornamented  with  many 
figures.  Above  are  depicted  sceoes 
from  the  life  of  Krishna.  The  supports 
of  the  massive  roof  are  of  iron. 

It  often  happens  that  while  the 
visitor  is  viewing  the  building,  a 
couple  of  men  will  pass  bv,  carryine 
a  bundle  by  a  pole,  whicn  is  passed 
through  it ;  the  bundle  being  a  corpse 
rolled  up  in  a  cloth,  and  so  carried  to 
be  burned. 

1  m.  S.W.,  on  the  sea-shore  near 
the  Circuit  House,  is  the  SwargaDwarOy 
or  **  Door  of  Paradise,"  where,  when  all 
the  ceremonies  are  finished,  the  pil- 
grims bathe  in  the  surf  and  wash  away 
their  sins.  There  is  a  stump  of  a  pillar 
4  ft  high  on  the  right  hand,  near  a 
small  temple.  On  this  pillar  offerings 
are  placed,  which  are  eaten  by  the 
crows.  On  the  left  is  what  is  called  the 
Lahore  Math.  Within  the  enclosure 
is  a  well,  with  excellent  fresh  water, 
which  seems  wonderful,  as  the  sea  is 
not  100  yds.  off.  Opposite  w^  be 
seen  hundreds  of  men  and  women 
bathing,  the  surf  rolling  over  them  in 
its  fiiry.  Afterwards  they  make  little 
lumps  of  sand,  and  stick  little  pieces  of 
wood  into  them. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  city,  passing  on 
the  left  the  Chandan  Tank  and  Temple, 
to  the  W.  of  which  are  the  Mitiani 
Tank,  and  ^the  Markhand  Tank  and 
Temple,  is  a  Bridge  said  to  have  been 
made  by  the  Marathas,  but  probably 
repaired  by  them.  It  was  built,  ac- 
cording to  Rajendra  Lai  Mitra,  1038-50. 
It  is  278  ft.  long  by  38  ft.  broad,  and 
has  19  archeb.  Over  this  the  main 
road  to  Cuttack  passes. 


ROUTE  21.       JAGANNATH 


281 


S.E.  from  this  is  the  Garden  House, 
to  which  the  Car  of  Jagannath  is 
brought  at  the  Car  Festival,  in  June 
or  July,  when  pilgrims  come  trooping 
into  Puri  by  thousands  a  day.  The 
Gfarden  House  stands  at  the  end  of  the 
broad  sandy  avenue  called  the  Bara- 
dand,  1  m.  from  the  Great  Temple. 
The  house  is  a  temple  within  a  garden 
enclosed  with  a  wall  15  ft  high.  The 
principal  gateway  faces  the  temple,  and 
has  a  pointed  roof,  adorned  with  con- 
ventional lions.  The  gates  to  this 
temple  are  built  upon  the  Hindu  arch 
system,  with  a  senes  of  slabs  support- 
ing the  roof,  each  a  little  longer  than 
the  other,  and  projecting  beyond  it. 
This  is  said  to  be  a  very  old  temple, 
but  it  has  not  much  pretension  to 
architectural  beauty.  On  the  side  of  the 
temple  there  is  a  plain  raised  seat  4  ft. 
hign  and  19  ft.  long,  made  of  chlorite, 
and  this  is  called  the  Ratnavedi,  the 
throne  on  which  the  images  arc  placed 
when  brought  to  the  temple. 

The  great  Car  is  45  ft.  high  and  85 
ft.  sq.,  and  is  supported  on  16  wheels  of 
7  ft.  diameter.  The  brother  and  sister 
of  Jagannath  have  separate  cars  a  few 
ft  simpler.  The  car  is  dragged  by  4200 
professionals,  who  come  from  the  neigh- 
bouring districts,  and  during  the 
festival  live  at  Puri  gratis. 

The  legend  is  that  Indradyumna 
pitched  hu  camp  here  when  he  arrived 
at  Puri,  and  set  up  an  image  of  Nar- 
siDg.  Here  the  Sacred  Log  from  the 
White  Island  stranded,  and  here  the 
Divine  Carver  made  the  images  of 
Jagannath,  etc.,  and  here  Indradyumna 
performed  the  horse  sacrifice  a  hundred 
times  over.  On  the  walls  are  some 
fine  carvings  of  horsemen,  etc.  Out- 
side, over  the  door,  are  iron  figures 
of  women  2  ft.  high,  supporting  the 
roof;  also  carvings  of  Brahma  with 
four  heads,  worshipping  Narayan  ;  of 
Krishna  playing  to  the  Gopis,  etc. 

The  Baradand  is  more  than  1  m. 
long.  It  is  180  ft  broad  in  some 
places.  According  to  Bajendra  Lai 
Mitra,   Jagannath  and    some    of   his 

gicnliar  ceremonial  observances  are  of 
addhist  origin,  and  the  Car  Festival 
marks  the  anniversary  of  Buddha's 
birthday.       Besides  the  Car  Festival 


there  are  the  following  holy  days :  (1) 
Ghomagi,  "warm  clothing  festival," 
when  the  images  are  dressed  in  shawls ; 
(2)  Abisheka,  sacred  as  the  anniversary 
of  Jagannath's  coronation  ;  (3)  Makara, 
when  the  Sun  enters  the  sign  Capricorn. 
This  corresponds  to  the  Strense  of  the 
Romans.  (4)  Dola  Yatra,  or  Bolif  to 
celebrate  the  return  of  sprint,  the 
Carnival  of  India.  It  falls  on  the  full 
moon  of  Phalguna :  next  to  the  Car 
and  Bathing  Festivals,  this  is  the  most 
important  at  PurL  (5)  Ramavavani, 
birthday  of  Rama,  when  Jagannath  is 
dressed  as  Rama ;  (6)  Damana-bhanijka 
Yatra,  anniversary  of  the  destruction 
of  a  demon  named  Damanika ;  (7) 
Chandana  Yatra,  the  Florialia  of  the 
Romans,  and  the  May-pole  of  modem 
Europe,  a  feast  of  flowers  j  (8)  Rukmini 
Harana,  anniversary  of  Rukmini's 
elopement  She  was  the  daughter  of 
Bhishm,  King  of  Berar,  and  was  be- 
trothed to  Shishupal,  but  ran  off  with 
Erishu.  (9)  Snana  Yatra,  or  **  Bathing 
Festival,"  when  the  images  are  brought 
to  the  N.E.  comer  of  the  outer  enclos- 
ure and  bathed  at  noon,  then  dressed 
and  decorated  with  a  proboscis.  After 
this  the  images  are  removed  to  one  of 
the  side  rooms  for  a  fortnight,  and 
their  room  is  called  Andur  Ghar  or 
'*  sick  chamber,"  and  the  divinities  are 
said  to  be  laid  up  with  fever  in  conse- 
quence of  their  unusual  bath  ;  the  real 
object  is  to  wash  off  the  dust  and  soot 
of  the  year,  and  to  re-paint  the  idols. 
10  is  the  Car  Festival ;  11,  the  Sayana 
Ekadashi,  on  the  11th  of  the  first  half 
of  Ashadh.  This  marks  the  day  when 
Vishnu  falls  into  his  four  months' 
slumber.  The  images  are  put  to  bed, 
and  said  to  sleep  for  four  months.  (12) 
Jhulana  Yatra,  on  the  11th  of  the  first 
half  of  Shravana.  Madanamohana, 
the  proxy  of  Jagannath,  is  every  night 
for  nve  nights  placed  in  a  swing  and 
entertained  with  singing  and  dancing. 
(13)  Janam,  birthday  of  Krishna, — a 
priest  acts  the  father,  and  a  nautch  girt 
the  mother  ;  (14)  Parshvaparivartana 
Ekadashi,  11th  of  the  first  half  of 
Shravana,  in  honour  of  Vishnu  when 
asleep  turning  on  to  his  right  side ; 
(15)  Ealiya  Damana,  on  the  day  when 
Krishna    killed    the    black    seipent. 


888 


R0T7TE  21.   CALCUTTA  TO  PUBI  AND  OUTTACK 


India 


Dr.  Hanter  supposes  this  to  be  the 
annirereary  of  a  victory  orer  the 
aboriginal  Nagas,  by  the  Aryans.  (16) 
Vamana-ianam,  anniyersary  of  the 
birth  of  tne  fifth  incarnation  of  Vishnu. 
Jagannath  is  dressed  like  a  dwarf,  and 
provided  with  an  umbrella  and  an  urn. 
(17)  Kuar  Punai^  at  the  full  moon  of 
Ashvina,  when  the  discus  of  Vishnu  is 
carried  in  procession,  borrowed  firom 
the  Buddhist  lite  of  the  procession  of 
the  Wheel  of  the  Law  ;  (18)  Utthapana 
Ekadashi,  the  11th  of  Eartik,  when 
Vishnu  wakes  from  his  four  months* 
sleep.         / 

[18  m.  H.E.  firom  Puri  is  Eonarak, 
celebrated  for  its  so-called  Black 
Pagoda,  than  which,  with  the  single 
exception  of  the  temple  of  Jagannath 
described  above,  there  is  no  temple  in 
India  better  known  or  about  which 
more  has  been  written.  The  traveller 
should  on  no  account  omit  to  visit  it. 
The  cost  of  the  trip  is  about  as  follows : — 


Conveyance  \ 
16  bearers    /   * 
2  torch-bearers 

Oil 

6  coolies  .    .    . 

Gratuity  at  1\ 

annaeach    / 

Total  .    .    . 


rs.  as. 
9    0 


1    8 


Remarks. 


No  supplies  can 
be  got  at  Eon- 
arak  except  milk 
and  perhaps  eggs. 
The  traveller  wHl 
do  well  to  carry 
even  drinking- 
water  with  him. 


If  a  pony  can  be  procured,  it  will  be 
best  to  ride,  but  otherwise  the  journey 
may  be  made  in  a  palki  with  eight 
beurers,  three  coolies  to  carry  provisions, 
etc.,  and  two  torch-bearers.  The  start 
should  be  made  at  8. 80  a.  m.  As  Uriyas 
do  not  understand  Hindustani,  much 
less  English,  an  interpreter  is  necessary. 
The  path  at  first  runs  N.  for  about  2 
m.,  and  then  turns  to  the  right  and 
goes  direct  E.  The  whole  way  lies 
through  a  fine  grassy  plain,  in  which 
are  innumerable  herds  of  black  buck, 
which  are  so  tame,  that  even  the  noise 
of  the  JuimmalSj  who  chant  a  monoton- 
ous song,  does  not  scare  them  away. 
There  &oald  be  a  relay  of  bearers 
at  10  m.  from  PurL  The  trees  are  few 
"-"d  far  between,  and  there  is  only  one 


hut,  which  is  near  the  river  Kushbhadn^ 
13J  m.  fix)m  Puri.  The  river  is  abosl 
100  yds.  broad  in  the  rains,  but.  in  tin 
cold  season  there  are  three  streanui 
swift,  but  only  1  ft  deep.  About  1 
from  the  temple  there  are  a  few  dumpi 
of  trees  on  the  right,  one  thick  enongi 
to  give  shelter  from  the  sun. 

At  first  sight  the  Black  Pagodi 
is  disappointing.  It  has  on  the  Ki 
side  a  neap  of  ruins,  45  ft.  high  tuai 
about  70  ft  long,  sloping  down  at  a  steej 
angle.  This  was  the  tower  that  &m 
tained  the  idol.  In  firont  of  it  is  tin 
Jagamohan,  or  porch,  now  the  only  pal 
standing,  and  much  mined  internall| 
It  has  a  square  base  of  90  ft ,  is  buu 
of  red  laterite,  and  is  called  hlad 
on  account  of  the  deep  shadow 
casts. 

The  whole  roof  is  ezcesravely  beaa 
tifril,  and  covered  with  elaborate  carr 
ings,  and  Mr.  Fergnsson  says  of  it  thij 
there  is  no  roof  in  India  where  th 
same  play  of  light  and  shade  is  ob 
tained,  with  an  equal  amount  of  ricli 
ness  and  constructive  propriety,  na 
one  that  sits  so  giacefully  on  the 
that  supports  it  The  traveller  wL 
has  seen  the  Hindu  temples  of  Northen 
and  Western  India  will  not  be  prepared 
to  find  iron  employed  in  such  struc- 
tures. In  Orissa,  however,  this  has 
been  the  case.  Fergusson  says  of  this 
building:  ''^ Internally  the  chamber 
is  singularly  plain,  but  presents  some 
constructive  peculiarities  worthy  of 
attention.  On  the  floor  it  is  about  40 
ft.  sq.,  and  the  walls  rise  plain  to  about 
the  same  height.  Here  it  begins  to 
bracket  inwards,  till  it  contracts  to 
about  20  ft.,  where  it  was  ceiled  witii 
a  flat  stone  roof,  supported  by  wrought- 
iron  beams  .  .  .  showing  a  knowledge 
of  the  properties  and  strength  of  the 
material  that  is  remarkable  in  a  people 
who  are  now  so  utterly  incapable  of 
forging  such  masses.  .  .  .  The  employ- 
ment of  these  beams  here  is  a  mystery. 
They  were  not  wanted  for  strength,  as 
the  building  is  still  firm  after  they 
have  fallen,  and  so  expensive  a  false 
ceiling  was  not  wanted  architecturally 
to  roof  so  plain  a  chamber.  It  seems 
to  be  only  another  instance  of  that 
profusion  of  labour  which  the  Hindus 


B0X7TB  21.      BHUVANBSHWAB 


283 


loved  to  lavish  on  the  temples  of  their 
gods"  {Hi9t.  of  Arch,  p.  428).  The 
entrance  of  the  temple  is  on  the  E.  side. 
The  interior  of  the  hall  is  filled  to  the 
height  of  8  ft.  with  huge  stones,  which 
have  fallen  from  the  roof  or  sides. 
Most  of  them  have  holes  in  them, 
showing  that  they  have  been  clamped 
with  iron.  E.  of  the  E.  door  are  two 
stone  lions,  with  strongly  marked 
manes,  and  one  paw  lifted  up :  they 
rest  on  the  backs  of  elephants,  which 
are  smaller  in  size.  The  height  of  the 
entrance,  which  has  no  door,  is  16^ 
ft.  The  roof  of  the  entrance  is  sup- 
ported by  two  rafters  of  iron  and  four 
of  stone.  In  front  of  the  entrance, 
amongst  the  stones,  lies  a  bar  of  iron 
23  ft  long,  and  11^  in.  thick  and 
broad. 

The  sides  of  the  entrance  are  orna- 
mented with  eight  rows  of  patterns, 
very  finely  executed.  The  temple  was 
dedicated  to  the  Sun,  which  divinity  is 
said  to  have  here  cured  Sambu,  son  of 
Krishna,  of  a  leprosy  of  twelve  years' 
standing.  As  the  E.  door  was  guarded 
by  lions,  so  that  to  the  S.  was  by 
horses  trampling  down  armed  men, 
who  from  their  tusk-like  teeth,  crisped 
hair,  and  Kukri  knives  and  shields,  are 
evidently  intended  for  aborigines.  The 
N.  door  had  elephants  before  it.  These 
and  the  horses  remain,  but  cast  down 
at  a  distance  from  where  they  stood. 
The  "W.  door  is  closed  by  the  vast  heap 
of  ruins,  of  the  great  tower. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Jagamohan  is  a 
very  large  banyan  tree,  under  which  is 
a  good  place  for  the  traveller  to  take 
his  meal ;  and  near  the  great  tree  is  a 
grove  of  palms  and  sm^er  trees,  and 
a  garden  with  a  mathy  or  devotee's 
residence ;  also  a  square  temple,  without 
any  idol  in  it.  Milk  and  eggs  can  be 
procured  at  or  ne^r  this  place,  where  a 
tent  might  be  pitched.  Stirling  fixes 
the  date  of  the  Black  Pagoda  in  the 
year  1241,  but  Mr.  Fergusson  attributes 
it  to  the  latter  half  of  the  9th  century. 
When  he  visited  Konarak  in  1887  a 
portion  of  the  Great  Tower  was  still 
standing.  He  is  of  opinion  that  the 
destruction  of  the  temple  was  owing, 
not  to  earthquakes,  or  man's  violence, 
bat  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  which  was 


not  solid  enough  to  bear  so  enormous 
a  structure.  He  has  probably  assigned 
the  true  cause  for  the  fall  of  the  build- 
ing, but  as  we  know  that  the  Marathas 
carried  ofif  large  portions  of  it,  it  is 
more  than  possible  that  man  assisted 
very  signally  in  the  destruction.  Over 
the  E.  entrance  used  to  be  a  chlorite 
slab,  on  which  the  emblems  of  the  days 
of  the  week,  with  the  ascending  and 
descending  nodes,  were  carved.  Some 
English  antiquaries  attempted  to  re- 
move it  to  the  Museum  at  Calcutta, 
but  after  dragging  it  200  yds.,  gave 
up  the  attempt,  though  the  Indian 
builders,  after  excavating  the  block  in 
the  Hill  States,  and  carving  it,  had 
carried  it  80  m.  across  swamps  and 
unbridged  rivers  to  Eonarak.  It  lies 
now  about  200  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Great  Tree,  and  is  20  ft.  2  in.  long,  4  ft. 
deep,  and  4  ft.  10  in.  broad.  It  is  sadly 
disfigured  with  oil  and  red  paint,  witn 
whicn  the  Hindus  have  bedaubed  it. 
At  the  Jagamohan  itself,  the  traveller 
should  notice  the  spirit  with  which  the 
horses  at  the  S.  face  are  carved,  and 
also  the  device  on  one  of  the  shields, 
of  two  climbing  lizards.  The  sea, 
about  2  m.  off,  is  not  visible  from 
Konarak.] 

[BhuTaneshwar  (pop.  4000),  38  m. 
by  rail  from  Puri,  and  10  m.  from 
Barang  (for  Cuttack).  Many  ruins 
and  temples  are  passed  before  reaching 
the  Tovmy  once  the  capital  of  a  large 
and  flourishing  kingdom,  but  now 
interesting  only  to  the  antiquarian. 
It  occupies  the  central  area  between 
the  temples  of  Bameshvara,  Bhuvan- 
eshwar,  Kapileshvara,  Bhaskareshvara, 
and  Bameshvara.  One  half  of  the 
community  are  priests  or  temple  ser- 
vants, who  rank  amongst  the  most 
persistent  beggars  in  the  world.    ' 

The  first  mention  of  Bhuvaneshwar, 
in  the  Records  of  the  Temple  at  Ja- 
gannath,  dates  from  the  reign  of  Yayati, 
474-526  A.D.,  the  first  of  the  Kesaris,  or 
Lion  dynasty  of  Orissa.  He  expelled 
the  Yavanas,  thought  by  Stirling  and 
Hunter  to  be  the  Buddhists.  His  suc- 
cessors reigned  in  Bhuvaneshwar  until 
Nripati  Kesari  in  940-50  A.D.  founded 
Cuttack  and  made  it  his  capitaL 


884 


ROUTE  21.   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  OUTTAOK 


India 


7000  shrines  once  encircled  the  sacred 
lake ;  now  bat  500  remain  in  yarions 
stages  of  decay,  exhibiting  every  phase 
of  Orissan  art  '*  from  the  rough  con- 
ceptions of  the  6th  cent.,  through  the 
exquisite  designs  and  nngrudginff 
artistic  toil  of  the  12th,  to  the  hurried 
dishonest  stucco  imitations  of  the 
present  day."*  It  is  easy  to  perceive 
that  there  are  two  styles  of  architecture 
which  run  side  by  side  with  one 
another.  The  first  is  represented  by 
the  temples  of  Parashurameshvara 
and  Mukteshyara,  the  second  by  the 
Great  Temple.  They  are  not  antagon- 
istic but  sister  styles,  and  seem  to  have 
had  different  origins.  "  We  can  find 
affinities  with  the  first  two,  but  1 
know  of  nothing  like  the  Great  Temple 
anywhere  else." 

"The  Great  Temple  is,"  says  Fer- 
gusson,  '' perhaps  the  finest  example 
of  a  purely  Hindu  temple  in  India." 
Unfortunately,  none  but  Hindus  may 
approach  the  entrance  of  the  enclosure, 
the  high  walls  of  which  are  7  ft  thick 
and  of  large  cut  stones  without  mortar. 
From  the  top,  however,  of  a  ladder 
placed  against  the  N.  wall  a  view  of 
the  interior  may  be  obtained.  Within 
are  also  many  smaller  temples,  of 
which  a  plain  one  20  ft.  high  is  the 
oldest  At  the  N.E.  comer  of  the 
enclosure  wall  there  is  a  pavilion  per- 
haps built  for  a  music  hall,  but  now 
containing  an  image  of  Parbati. 

The  Great  TemjSe  was  built  by  Lelat 
Indra  Kesari  (617-657)  and  consisted 
originally  of  only  a  vimanah  and 
porch ;  the  beautiful  Nat  and  Bhog 
mandirs  were  added  between  1090  and 
1 1 04.  The  presiding  deity  is  Tribhuva- 
neshvara,  *'Lordof  the  Three  Worlds," 
geaerally  called  Bhuvaneshwar.  He 
is  represented  in  the  sanctuary  by  a 
block  of  ^nite  8  ft  in  diameter,  and 
rising  8  m.  above  the  floor.  It  is 
bathed  with  water,  milk,  and  bhang. 
There  are  twenty-two  dhupaSf  or  cere- 
monies daily,  consisting  in  washing  the 
teeth  of  the  divinity,  moving  a  lamp  in 
front,  dressing,  breakfast,  etc 

The  Great  Tower  can  be  seen  from 
_x^  ^  - .,.  -"all.    It  is  66  ft.  high,  and , 


though  not  so  large,  is  decidedly  finer 
in  design  than  that  at  Taigore.  '  *  Every 
inch  of  the  surface  is  coyered  with 
carving  in  the  most  elaborate  manner ; 
it  is  not  only  the  divisions  of  the 
courses,  the  roll  mouldings  on  the 
angles,  or  the  breaks  on  the  face  of  the 
tower,  but  every  individual  stone  in 
the  tower  has  a  pattern  carved  upon 
it."  Especially  in  the  perpendicular 
parts  seen  'from  the  courtyard  "the 
sculpture  is  of  a  very  high  order  and 
great  beauty  of  design."  The  top  of 
the  spire  is  flat,  and  from  the  centre 
rises  a  cylindrical  neck,  supporting  a 
ribbed  dome,  over  which  is  placed  the 
Ealasha  or  "  pinnacle. "  Twelve  statues 
of  lions  seated  support  the  dome.  Over 
it  is  a  broken  trident 

The  Nat  Uaadir  is  elegant,  of  course, 
but  differs  from  the  style  of  the  porch, 
*  *  in  that  all  xK)wer  of  expression  is  gone 
which  enabled  the  early  architect  to 
make  small  things  look  gigantic  firpm 
the  mere  exuberance  of  labour  bestowed 
on  them." 

Outside  the  enclosure  are  many  small 
subterraneous  temples,  and  at  the  N.K 
corner  is  a  platform  with,  beyond  to  the 
E.,  a  very  handsome  tank  surrounded 
by  a  row  of  108  small  temples.  The 
jungle  to  the  S.  of  the  Great  Tower,  to 
the  extent  of  20  acres,  is  said  to  be  the 
site  of  Lelat  Indra  Eesari*s  palace,  and 
exhibits  everywhere  the  remains  of 
foundations  and  pavements.  N.  of 
the  temple  is  the  very  fine  tank  called 
VvndusaugaTj  "ocean  drop."  In  the 
centre  is  a  Jal  Mandir,  or  "Water 
Pavilion,"  consisting  of  several  shrinesi 
on  which  perch  numerous  cranes  in 
motionless  repose.  In  front  of  the 
central  ghat  of  this  tank  there  is  a 
matgnificent  temple,  with  a  porch,  a 
more  modem  dancing-hall,  and  Bhog 
Mandir.  All  but  the  Bhog  Mandir  are 
lined  with  hrick-red  sandstone,  elabor- 
ately sculptured.  The  temple  is  sacred 
to  Vasudev,  or  Krishna,  and  Ananta  or 
Balaram,  and  no  pilgrim  is  allowed  to 
perform  any  religious  ceremony  in  the 
town  or  to  visit  Bhuvaneshwar  without 
praying  for  permission  here.  Passing 
along  the  E.  aide  of  the  tank,  the 
traveller  will  see  several  temples  of  the 


ROUTE  21.      BHUVANESHWAB 


285 


same  shape  as  the  Great  Tower.  About 
^  m.  to  uie  E.N.E.  of  the  Ananta  and 
Vasudev  Temple  is  one  about  40  ft. 
high  to  KotUirtheshvara,  "The  lord 
of  ten  millions  of  sacred  pools."  It  is 
evidently  built  of  stones  from  some 
other  edifice.  ^  m.  to  the  E.  of  this  is 
tlie  Temple  of  BrahmNthmara,  on  a  high 
mound,  formed  into  a  terrace.  It  is 
most  sumptuously  carved,  inside  as  well 
as  out,  and  was  erected  at  the  end  of 
the  9th  century  a.d.  "W.  of  the  temple, 
close  to  its  terrace,  is  a  tank  called 
Brahma  Eunda.  N.E.  of  the  Great 
Tower  is  an  old  ruined  temple  to  Bhas- 
karesTuoara,  "Sun-god,"  of  basalt,  and 
said  to  belong  to  the  close  of  the  5th  or 
the  beginning  of  the  6th  century. 

J  m.  to  the  W.  of  Bhaskareshvara  is 
the  once  magnificent  Temple  of  Baj 
Bam.  Mr.  Fergusson  says  of  it  (Hist, 
of  Arch,  p.  424)  that  "the  plan  is 
arranged  so  as  to  give  great  variety 
and  play  of  light  and  shade,  and  as  the 
details  are  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty, 
it  is  one  of  the  gems  of  Orissan  Art." 
It  faces  the  E.,  and  has  a  porch  in 
front,  both  of  dressed  brick-red  sand- 
stone. The  niches  are  filled  with 
statues  3  ft  high,  executed  with  great 
vigonr  and  elegance ;  one  of  them  closely 
resembles  the  statue  of  Venus  de  Medici. 
General  Stewart  and  Colonel  Mackenzie 
carried  away  numbers  of  statues  and 
sadly  defaced  the  building.  Observe 
the  pillar  with  3  kneeling  elephants 
and.  lions,  with  above  a  Nagni  or 
female  Naga  with  her  seven-headed 
snake  hood,  and  over  the  doorways  the 
Navagraha  or  9  planets. 

About  300  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  Raj 
Rani  is  a  grove  of  mango  trees,  called 
Siddharanyaj  "Grove  of  thb  perfect 
beings."  Here  many  temples  were 
built  of  which  more  than  20  remain 
entire.  Of  these  the  most  remarkable 
are  Mukteshvara,  Kedareshvara,  Sid- 
dheshrara,  and  Parashurameshvara. 

Mukteshvara  is  the  handsomest, 
though  the  smallest.  It  is  35  ft.  high, 
and  tiie  porch  25  ft.  high.  The  floral 
bands  are  better  executed  than  in 
most  of  the  temples ;  the  bas-reliefs 
sharp  and  impressive ;  the  statuettes 
vigorous    and   full   of    action,    with 


drapery  well  disposed,  and  the  dis- 
position of  the  whole  elegant  and  most 
effective.  Among  the  subjects  are: 
a  lady  mounted  on  a  rearing  elephant 
and  attacking  an  armed  giant ;  a  figure 
of  Annapuma  presenting  alms  to 
Shiva  ;  females,  half-serpents,  canopied 
under  five  or  seven -headed  cobras; 
lions  mounted  on  elephants,  or  fighting 
with  lions  ;  damsels  dancing  or  play- 
ing on  the  mridang\  an  emaciated 
hermit  giving  lessons.  The  scroll- 
work, bosses,  and  friezes  are  worthy  of 
note.  The  chamber  of  the  temple  is 
7  ft.  sq.,  but  outside  measures  18  ft. 
In  front  of  the  porch  is  a  Toran  15  ft. 
high.  It  is  supported  on  two  columns 
of  elaborate  workmanship,  unlike  any- 
thing of  the  kind  at  Bhuvaneshwar. 
Over  it  are  two  reclining  female  figures. 
It  is  said  that  it  is  used  for  swinging, 
in  the  Dol  Festival.  Close  behind  the 
temple  is  a  tank  shaded  by  a  Nagakesh- 
vara  tree  (Mesua  ferrea)  of  remarkable 
size  and  beauty  ;  30  ft.  to  the  S.  is  the 
Gauri  Eunda  tank.  The  water  is 
beautifully  clear,  tepid,  and  full  of  fish, 
and  the  best  drinking  water  in  the 
locality.  Water  flows  into  it  from  the 
first-named  tank,  but  a  much  greater 
quantity  flows  out,  sufficient  to  irrigate 
25  acres  of  arid  laterite  soil.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  excavated  by  the  goddess 
Gauri,  and  that  it  bestows  beauty,  good 
fortune,  and  freedom  from  all  sin. 

Kedareshvara. — Close  by  this  Eunda 
is  the  Eedareshvara  Temple,  and  near 
it  against  the  outer  wall  of  a  small 
room  is  a  figure  of  Hanuman,  the 
monkey -god,  8  ft.  hi^h,  and  one  of 
Durga,  standing  on  a  lion.  Her  statue 
is  of  chlorite,  and  has  the  finest  female 
head  to  be  seen  in  Bhuvaneshwar.  The 
Kedareshvara  temple  is  41  ft.  high, 
and  has  an  almost  circular  ground-plan. 
This  temple  is  probably  older  than  the 
Great  Tower,  and  possibly  dates  from 
the  middle  of  the  6th  century.  It  is 
very  sacred. 

N.W.  of  Mukteshvara  is  Siddesh- 
vara,  which  is  very  ancient,  and  was 
once  the  most  sacred  spot  on  this  side 
of  Bhuvaneshwar.  It  is  47  ft  high» 
and  has  a  well-proportioned  porch« 


286 


ROUTE  21.   OALOUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  OUTTAGK 


Indtal 


ParathnrmmethTaza,  200  yds.  to  the 
W.  of  the  Gaori  tank,  Fergusson  con- 
siders the  oldest  temple  at  Bhnvan- 
eshwar.  *  *  The  sculptures  are  cut  with 
a  delicacy  seldom  surpassed."  The 
ground-plan  is  a  square,  the  porch  is 
oblong  and  coyered  with  bas-reliefs 
representing  processions  of  horses  and 
elephants  in  the  upper  linear  bands 
under  the  cornice,  and  scenes  from  the 
life  of  Rama  in  the  lower.  The  roof  is 
a  sloping  terrace,  in  the  middle  of 
which  is  a  clear  story  with  a  sloping 
roof,  fiat  in  the  middle.  As  the  roo^ 
stones  project  beyond  the  openings, 
neither  direct  rays  of  sun  nor  rain  can 
penetrate.  This  occurs  nowhere  else 
except  in  the  Mohan  of  the  Yaital 
Temple. 

Alabtikeshvara  is  of  red  sandstone, 
and  stands  to  the  N.  £.  of  the  last. 

VaUai  Dewal  stands  on  the  roadside 
to  the  W.  of  the  V indusaugar  tank.  Its 
spire  is  four-sided,  and  ends  in  a  long 
ndge  profusely  carved  and  probably  of 
the  9tn  century. 

Someshvara  stands  to  the  S.  of  the 
last  named.  It  is  38  ft.  high  and  27 
ft  square,  and  richly  carved  all 
over. 

A  list  of  81  other  temples  will  be 
found  in  the  Antiquities  of  Orissa,  vol. 
ii.  pp.  97,  98.] 

[The  Cavea  of  Udayagiri  and  Ehan- 
dagiri  lie  about  4  m.  to  the  N.W. 
through  low  jungle,  which  gradually 
increases  till  tne  hills  are  reacned. 

Udayagiri  is  110  ft  high,  and  the 
caves  exist  in  eight  stages.  The  lowest 
being  the  Hani  Naur,  or  Queen's  Palace, 
called  by  Fergusson  the  Raj  Rani  Cave, 
near  the  guide's  hut  "  It  consists  of 
two  rows  of  cells,  one  above  the  other, 
shaded  by  pillared  verandahs,  with  a 
courtyard  49x43  ft  cut  out  of  the 
hillside."  The  upper  story,  which 
faces  E.,  has  eight  entrances.  There 
are  two  dwarpals,  representing  men  in 
what  appears  to  be  Grecian  armour, 
with  buskins  and  greaves,  cut  out  of 
the  solid  i-ock  in  alto-relievo.  The 
verandah  gives  access  to  four  small 
cells,  and  at  either  end  is  a  rock  lion, 
executed  with  some  spirit.  The  back 
wall  of  the  verandah  is  an  extensive 


series  of  tableaux,  difficult  to  make  out 
First  on  the  left  are  men  carrying  fruit 
a  ^oup  of  elephants,  and  soldiers  armeJ 
with  swords. 

The  lower  story  also  has  eight  en| 
trances.  The  ground-floor  front  wi 
formed  of  a  colonnaded  verandah  44  f 
long,  having  a  raised  seat  or  ben 
along  its  whole  inner  line.  It  ^ 
formerly  supported  by  a  row  of  eig 
square  pillars,  of  which  only  the  ^ 
end  ones  remain,  and  opened  £.  i 
an  oblong  chamber,  and  N.  into  th 
rooms.  Here  there  is  an  extensiif 
Meze,  much  dilapidated,  so  that  on 
four  fragments  admit  of  descriptio 
The  first  represents  a  house,  and  a  femi 
figure  looks  out  of  each  of  the  3  do 
and  one  from  the  balcony,  which  i 
protected  by  a  Buddhist  rail, 
similar  rail  runs  in  front  of  the  loii 
story,  with  a  large  tree  by  its  side, 
the  second  fragment  a  saint  or  priei 
holds  a  piece  of  cloth  in  his  left  had 
and  extends  the  right  as  in  the  act  i 
blessing ;  one  servant  holds  an 
brella,  and  another  carries  a  swon 
Lt.  is  a  devotee  on  his  knees,  and 
yond  two  kneeling  women  bring  offetl 
ings,  one  dusting  the  feet  of  a  boy,  wm 
has  one  hand  on  her  head.  In  th«| 
third  fragment  is  a  saddle-horse  witl 
three  attendants,  and  the  holy  maa 
with  an  umbrella  held  over  him,  and  _ 
two  attendants  with  swords.  In  the" 
fourth  fragment  there  is  a  group  of 
six  women,  three  carrying  pitchers 
on  their  heads,  one  kneeling  and 
offering  her  pitcher  to  a  figure,  which 
is  lost. 

Ganesh  OumpJut  (or  more  correctly 
Ghipha)  is  almost  due  N.  of  the  Rani 
Naur  Cave,  and  much  higher  in  the 
hill.  It  has. only  one  story,  but  two 
compartments,  with  a  verandah  in 
front  There  are  three  pillars  in  the 
firont  of  the  verandah,  square  and 
massive,  but  two  others  have  fallen. 
The  pillars  have  brackets,  with  female 
figures  carved  on  them.  The  flight  of 
steps  leading  to  the  verandah  has  a 
crouching  elephant  on  either  side,  each 
holding  a  lotus  in  his  trunk.'  The 
verandah  is  5  ft.  4  in.  high,  and  its 
wfldl  is  ornamented  with  a  series  of  8 
tableaux  in  nlto-relievo.     This  frieie 


ROUTS  21.      CAVES  OF  UDATAGIBI  AND  EHANDAGIRI 


287 


1  thsLt  in  the  fiani  Kaur  Cave  repre- 
it  tlxe  same  story,  the  main  difference 
Bg  that  in  this  cave  the  figures  are 
•re  classical  and  better  drawn,  and, 
arefore,  Mr.  Fergusson  thinks,  more 
)derii.  In  the  Rani's  cave  they  are 
tainly  more  Hindu.  Of  the  story 
m  -which  these  designs  are  taken, 
thing  is  known. 

50  yds.  W.  of  Rani  Naur  Cave  is  a 
pht  of  steps  which  lead  to  a  two- 
ffied  cave  called  Swargwpuri,  Both 
»ries  have  two  rooms,  with  a  verandah 
front,  which  has  been  supported  by 
Qars  now  broken.  There  is  no  carving 
inscription  except  on  some  pilasters 
ar  the  door,  fix>m  the  top  of  which 
3DUB  a  line  of  Buddhist  rails,  sur- 
Dunted  by  an  elephant  in  bas-relief, 
th  what  is  perhaps  a  human  figure 
id  a  tree  behind  it. 
N.  of  these  are  the  Jaya  Vijaya,  or 
wes  of  Hansapur.  There  is  a  frieze 
ifeh  three  compartments,  the  base 
ing  farmed  of  a  line  of  Buddhist 
ilfi.  In  the  central  compartment  is 
Bo  tree.  Beside  the  tree  are  two 
Ale  figures,  that  on  the  left  with 
Ided'  hands,  and  that  on  the  right 
olding  a  bit  of  cloth  tied  to  the  tree 
ad  a  small  branch.  Near  the  men 
pe  two  females  bringing  trays  of 
fferings.  The  scroll-work  on  the 
»nicircular  bands  over  the  doorways 
re  different,  and  beyond  them  are  two 
Brbaned  figures  carrying  trays  of 
fferings.  At  the  sides  of  the  facade 
re  a  man  and  woman,  6  ft.  high,  in 
Ito-relieYO.  To  the  left  is  a  small 
ave  called  Dwarkapura. 

Qopalapura. — ^To  the  N.W.  are  two 
(Tonps  of  caves,  named  Gopalapura 
lad  Munchapura.  On  the  piers  of  the 
lall  are  two  inscriptions  in  the  Lat 
liiaracter,  now  illegible. 

Faikumtha. — This  and  two  other 
Aves,  Patalapura  and  Jamapura,  are 
%  httle  to  the  N.  W.  They  are  much 
de&ced  and  are  now  uninteresting. 

76  yds.  to  the  N.W.  is  the  ffathi 
Qv/phOf  or  "Elephant  Cave,"  of  which 
Mr.  Fergusson  says :  *  *  It  is  an  extensive 
natural  cave,  unimproved  by  art "  {Tree 
mi  Serpent  JFarship,  2d  ed.  p.  267). 
To  the  left  is  a  boulder  which  has  been 
hollowed  out  into  a  cell  5  ft.  sq.    Over 


the  entrance,  cut  into  the  scarped  rock, 
is  an  inscription  in  the  most  ancient 
Lat  character,  perhaps  the  oldest 
Indian  engraved  document  that  has 
come  down  to  us.  This  long  inscription 
is  an  account  of  the  grandeur  and  piety 
of  Aira  the  King  of  Kalinga. 

"All  who  take  interest  in  Indian 
antiquities,"  says  Prinsep,  "will  at 
once  see  the  value  of  the  above 
record,  perhaps  the  most  curious  that 
has  yet  been  disclosed  to  us."  Ri^en- 
dra  Lai  Mitra  supposes  that  Aira  men- 
tioned in  the  inscription  lived  within 
the  hundred  years  preceding  the  acces- 
sion of  Chandragupta  to  the  throne  of 
Magadha,  in  316  b.c.  There  are  several 
smaller  inscriptions  within  the  cave, 
some  in  ill-formed  Gupta  character, 
others  in  equally  degenerate  Eutila. 
They  were  cut  probably  by  idle  monks 
or  visitors.  A  few  yds.  N.  of  the 
Elephant  Cave  is  the  Pavana  Gupha, 
or  "  Cave  of  Purification." 

About  76  ft  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
Pavana  Gupha  is  the  Sarpa  Gupha,  or 
"Serpent  Cave."  On  the  top  of  the 
entrance  is  a  rude  carving  of  the  hood 
of  a  three-headed  cobra.  Under  this 
is  the  door,  through  which  a  man  can 
just  crawl ;  the  interior  is  a  cube  of  4  ft. 
Beside  the  door  is  an  inscription  thus 
translated  by  James  Prinsep:  "The 
unequalled  chamber  of  Chulakarma 
and  the  appropriate  temple  of  £arma 
Rishi."  Near  this  is  the  Bhajana 
Gupha,  or  "Cave  of  Meditation."  A 
little  to  the  N.  is  the  Alakapura,  or 
"  Palace  of  Indra."  Neither  is  of  any 
importance. 

Bagh  Oupha^  or  "Tiger  Cave. "-7- At 
60  ft.  to  the  N.  is  the  very  interesting 
Tiger  Cave,  cut  externally  into  the 
shape  of  the  upper  part  of  a  tiger's 
head,  with  the  jaws  at  full  gape. 
The  eyes  and  nose  of  the  monster  are 
very  well  marked,  but  the  teeth  are 
now  imperfectly  discernible.  The 
head  at  top,  where  it  joins  the  hill, 
is  8  ft.  8  in.  broad.  The  gape  is  9  ft. 
wide,  and  the  entrance  to  the  cell 
occupies  the  place  of  the  gullet  To 
the  right  of  the  entrance  is  an  inscrip- 
tion in  the  Lat  character,  which  says, 
"The  Cave  of  Sasevin,"  a  fierce  oppon- 
ent of  the  Yedas.    At  the  begiuuiug 


288 


ROUTE  21.   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  CDTTACK 


Mia 


of  the  inscription  is  a  Bnddhist  mono- 
gram, and  at  the  end  a  Svastika.  A 
little  N.  of  the  Tiger  Cave  is  the 
Urdhabahu,  a  one-storied  chamber,  12 
ft.  X  6  ft.  wide,  with  a  verandah 
faced  by  pillars  with  lion  capitals  and 
brackets  carved  like  female  figures. 
It  has  an  illegible  inscription  in  the 
Lat  character 

KhandagiH  BUL— This  hill  is  183 
ft  high,  and  faces  E.  It  is  thickly 
coverS  with  trees.  The  path  which 
leads  to  the  top  is  steep,  and  at  the 
height  of  about  50  ft  divides  into  two, 
one  branch  leading  to  the  left,  and  to 
a  range  of  caves  cut  in  the  E.  face  of 
the  hUl  (see  below). 

The  path  on  the  right  leads  to  the 
AnarUa  cave,  which  is  a  narrow  excava- 
tion, with  four  doorways  and  a  verandah 
with  pillars.  Instead  of  a  capital, 
these  nave  a  projecting  bracket,  shaped 
like  a  woman.  The  architrave  is  heavy, 
and  over  it  is  a  parapet  supported  on 
corbels.  In  the  centre  of  the  back  wall 
of  the  cave  is  a  Buddha  in  bas-relief. 
The  frieze  is  in  five  compartments,  and 
represents  figures  running  with  trays 
of  offerings,  athletes  fighting  with  bulls 
and  lions,  and  two  lines  of  geese  running 
with  spread  win^,  each  with  a  flower 
in  its  biU.  Notice  in  the  semicircular 
space  under  one  of  the  arches  a  nude 
female  standing  in  a  lotus-bush,  and 
holding  a  lotus-stalk  in  either  hand. 
Two  elephants  are  throwing  water  over 
her  with  their  trunks.  This  is  either 
Basuli,  an  aboriginal  goddess  men- 
tioned by  Mr.  Bcames,  or  Lakshmi. 
In  the  back  wall  of  the  verandah  are 
two  inscriptions,  one  in  the  Lat  char- 
acter, and  the  other  in  the  Eutila. 

Now  turn  back  to  the  place  where 
the  path  divides  and  proceed  to  the  left 
to  a  modern  gallery,  and  to  the  S. 
to  a  range  of  three  openings.  There 
is  here  a  Sanscrit  inscription  of  the 
12th  century  in  Nagri,  which  says 
the  cave  belonged  to  Acharya  KaJa- 
chandra,  and  his  pupil  Yellachandra. 
Next  comes  a  range  of  caves  facing  the 
E.,  divided  into  two  compartments  by 
a  partition  in  the  middle.  On  the 
back  wall  is  a  row  of  seated  Dhyani 
Buddhas,  and  some  new  images  of 
Jinna   Deva.     At  the  £.   end  is  an 


altar  of  masonry,  on  which  are  ranged 
a  number  of  Jain  images.  The  second 
compartment  is  very  similar.  On  ths 
back  wall  is  a  row  of  Dhyani  Buddhas, 
1  ft  high,  and  below  females  seated 
on  stooU,  some  four-handed,  ot^en 
eight-handed,  with  one  leg  crossed 
and  the  other  hanging.  Below  are 
lions  coiicTiant. 

From  this  to  the  top  of  the  hill  is 
a  stiff  climb,  and  the  steps  in  one  plaet 
are  very  steep.  Oi}  the  summit  of  tlu 
hill  is  a  plateau  and  an  18th  cent 
temple  to  Parasnath.  From  it  is  i 
magnificent  panoramic  view  15  nLsA 
round.  The  groves  of  mango  and  jack 
trees  are  most  beautiful.  In  firont  rf 
the  temple  is  a  fine  terrace,  50  ft  sq., 
with  a  raised  masonry  seat  all  ronni 
To  the  S.  W.  of  the  temple  is  a  smooth 
terrace  of  150  ft.  diameter,  gentlf 
sloping  to  the  W.,  called  the  Den 
Sabha.  In  the  centre  is  a  small  sqnin 
pillar,  with  a  bas-relief  of  Buddha  ob 
each  side,  and  round  it  four  circles  of 
Chaityas.  Three  small  boulders,,  set 
in  a  triangle  and  covered  by  a  dolmei 
of  sandstone,  stand  in  the  inner  cirde. 
E.  of  the  Deva  Sabha,  at  100  yds.,  is  a 
tank  out  in  the  solid  rock,  called  the 
Akasha  Ganga,  or  "  heavenly  Ganges." 
Immediately  below  the  tank  is  a  cave, 
where  the  remains  of  Rajah  Lelat  India 
Kesari  are  said  to  rest  Bajendra  Lai 
Mitra  believes  the  whole  of  the  caves 
to  be  originally  Buddhist,  and  to  have 
been  constructed  from  340  to  320  B.a 
He  sees  in  them  no  connection  with 
Greek  architecture  and  sculpture.] 

Cuttack,3«c  D.B.  (pop.  51,000),  is 
situated  at  the  apex  of  the  delta  of  the 
Mahanadi  river,  which  rises  in  the 
Raipur  district  of  the  Central  Provincesi 
and  has  a  length  of  529  m.  It  poors 
down  upon  the  delta  through  thenarrov 
gorge  of  Naraj,  7  m.  W.  of  the  town 
of  Cnttack,  and,  dividing  into  two 
streams,  encircles  the  city  on  the  N. 
and  E.,  and  on  the  W.  by  its  branch, 
called  the  Katjuri.  The  river  during 
the  rain  pours  down  a  prodigious  flood, 
and  to  prevent  its  sweeping  away  the 
city,  an  important  stone  embankment 
has  been  erected  on  the  spit  of  land  ob 
which  the  city  has  been  built 


ROUTE  21.      OUTTACK 


289 


The  D.B.  is  in  the  middle  of  the 
Cantonments,  on  the  right  of  the  road 
going  down  to  the  fort.  About  one- 
mtli  of  a  mile  beyond  it  is  the  Parade> 
ground,  with  the  .English  Churchy  N. , 
Roman  Catholic  Chapel  and  Orphanage, 
W. ,  and  Baptist  Mission,  S. 

Gnttack  is  the  capital  of  Orissa.  It 
was  founded  in  the  tenth  century  A.  P. 
by  one  of  the  kings  of  the  long-haired, 
or  lion,  dynasiy.  Its  position  as  the 
key  of  the  Orissa^  hill  territory,  and 
the  centre  of  the  network  of  the  Orissa 
canals,  ^ves  it  both  military  and 
conunercial  importance. 

It  is  famed  for  its  filigree  work  in 
gold,  and  silver. 

The  Fort  is  called  Fort  Barabati, 
and  is  in  ruins.  It  may  have  been 
built  in  the  14th  century.  Stirling 
says :  "  The  square  sloping  bastions 
imd  general  s^le  bespeak  a  Hindu 
origin.'*  M.  la  Motte,  who  travelled 
in  1767  A.D.,  thought  the  Fort  like 
the  W.  side  of  Windsor  Castle.  It 
was  taken  by  storm  by  the  British 
in  1803.  It  has  now  been  converted 
into  an  unsightly  series  of  earthen 
mounds ;  the  stones  of  the  moat  hav- 
ing been  taken  in  1873  to  build  an 
hospital,  and  those  of  the  Fort  to  con- 
struct the  lig^hthouse  at  False  Point. 
The  only  objects  of  interest  which 
remain  are  the  grand  arphed  Gatetoay, 
flanked  by  two  lofty  square  towers,  in 
the  £.  face,  added  by  the  Mohammedan 
or  the.  Maratha  governors  of  Orissa  in 
1750  A.D.,  as  mentioned  in  Persian  in- 
scriptions, and  the  Mosque  of  Fath  Khan. 
In  the  Ain-i-Akhari  it  is  said  that 
there  was,  within  the  Fort,  the  famous 
palace  of  Rsga  Mukund  Deo,  nine 
stories  high.  This  has  utterly  perished, 
but  from  the  ruins  have  been  dug  up 
fragments  of  cornices,  and  a  massive 
candelabrum  of  fine  indurated  chlorite. 
The  top  of  the  mined  citadel  is  100  ft. 
above  the  level  of  the  river. 

On  the  way  to  the  Fort,  before 
entering  the  Cantonments,  close  to  the 
bank  of  the  Taldanda  Caneil,  is  a  garden 
named  after  Mr.  J.  Beames,  a  former 
collector.  At  the  "W.  extremity  is  a 
beautifully  carved  arch  9  ft.  high,  and 
several  carved  stones,  all  of  which  were 
brought  from  Alti  by  Mr.  Beames.  On 
[/nrfm] 


the  side  pilasters  are  five  rows  of  orna- 
ments deserving  attention. 

After  crossing  the  bridge  oyer  th« 
canal,  the  Commissioner's  Cutcherry,  a 
large  building,  is  passed  on  the  right. 

The  stone  facing  of  the  Katiuri  river 
was  made  by  the  Marathas.  The  bank 
is  in  places  25  ft.  high,  and  is  faced  with 
fine  blocks  of  laterite  and  sandstone. 

Wews, — Near  Cuttack  are  import- 
ant weirs  for  regulating  the  flow  of  the 
rivers.  Two  of  these,  the  Birupa  and 
Mahanadi,  may  be  seen  in  quitting  the 
place.  The  traveller  can  drive  along 
a  road  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Taldanda 
Canal  to  the  Jobra  Ghat,  where  are 
the  Great  D.P.W.  workshops,  the  Mah- 
anadi Weir,  and  the  place  of  starting 
of  the  launches  for  Chandbali,  False 
Point,  and  Bhadrak.  The  Birupa  river 
leaves  the  Mahanadi  on  its  right  bank, 
and  the  weir  there  is  1980  ft.  long  and 
9  ft.  high.  Of  the  four  canals  which 
form  the  Orissa  Irrigation  System,  two 
take  off  from  the  Birupa  Weir,  and 
one  with  its  branch  from  the  Mahanadi 
Weir.  The  two  former  are  the  High 
Level  Canal  and  the  Eendrapara,  the 
latter  is  the  Taldanda.  The  Mahanadi 
Weir  is  6400  ft.  long  and  12i  ft  high, 
and  cost  in  round  numbers  18  lakhs  of 
rs.  It  was  begun  in  1868  and  completed 
in  1869-70. 

Steamers^  etc. 

The  launches  of  three  companies 
leave  Cuttack  every  Wed.  conveying 
passengers  to  Chandbali,  where  they  are 
transferred  to  sea-going  steamers  for 
Calcutta ;  every  Sat.  a  launch  leaves 
to  meet  a  sea-going  steamer  at  Awa, 
which  starts  for  Calcutta  on  Mon. ;  and 
twice  weekly  a  Govt,  launch  leaves  for 
Bhadrak,  travelling  by  the  High  Level 
Canal, — a  picturesque  journey. 

The  steamers  of  the  B.I.S.N.  Co. 
call  regularly  at  False  Point  on  their 
downward  journey  for  Madras  and 
coast  ports,  but  Tiot  on  their  return 
journey  to  Calcutta.] 


[Cuttack  to  False  Point. 

A  steam  launch  runs  between  Cut- 
tack and  False   Point  in  connection 

u 


290 


BOUTE  21.   OALODTTA  TO  PUBI  AKD  GUTTAOK 


India 


with  the  steamers  £rom  CSalcntta  snd 
Bombay  and  coast  ports.  The  distaaoe 
between  Cnttack  and  False  Point  is 
64^  UL ;  of  this  54  m.  is  by  canaL 
The  joomey  is  generally  performed  in 
24  hours.  Half  an  honr  alter  leaving 
Cnttaek  the  boat  will  pass  the  first 
lock,  and  enter  the  Eendrapara  Canal, 
which  is  here  about  80  feet  broad.  It 
takes  about  6  hours  to  reach  the  place 
where  the  canal  bifiircates,  and  five 
locks. are  passed,  each  causing  a  delay 
of  7  to  10  minutes.  Where  the  canal 
branches  into  two,  the  right  branch 
leads  to  Marsuffhat,  and  the  left  to 
Awa  for  Chandbali.  There  are  three 
more  locks  before  reaching  the  Jambu 
lock,  where  tidal  waters  are  reached 
about  6  m.  from  ffooke^llahf  the 
great  station  for  False  Pomt  harbour. 
Since  the  calamitous  ^clone  of  1886, 
a  substantial  Reftige  House  has  been 
erected  at  Hookey tollah.] 


[OiUieiek  to  Jaipur. 
The  stages  are  as  follows : — 

Names  of  Stations.  Miles. 

.     11 

.      10 

9 

.      14 


Oattack  to  Tkng^ 
TanghitoBaichana  . 
Barchana  to  Dharamsala 
Dharamsala  to  Jt^pur 


Total 


The  distance,  as  the  crow  flies,  is 
about  85  m.  Leaving  Cuttack  at  about 
5  P.M.,  you  will  be  able  to  cross  the 
Mahanadi  during  daylight,  and  proceed 
during  the  night  34  m.  up  the  Grand 
Trunk  Road,  passing  three  Inspection 
or  Dak  Bungalows,  at  Tanghi,  Barchana, 
and  Dharamsala,  where  the  palki  will 
cross  the  river  Brahmani  in  a  ferry- 
boat. S  m.  farther  you  leave  the  Trunk 
Road  at  Kuakhia,  turning  rt.  There 
is  a  short  cut  after  crossing  the  river, 
but  it  is  not  advisable  to  t£^e  it.  Hie 
road  then  proceeds  10  m.  to  the  E., 
crossing  en  rotite  three  rivers  unbridged, 
but  fordable  in  the  cold  weather ;  and  at 
sunrise  you  reach 

Jajpur.  —  Yayati  Kesari,  coming 
from  Behar,  found  Jajpur  a  place  of 
importance,  and  made  it  his  capital  for 
a  time.     It  was  close  to  Dantapura, 


where  the  sacred  tooth  of  Buddha  was 
kept,  and  in  the  4th  and  5th  centu^ 
A.I).  it  was  called  the  navel  of  Bua- 
dhism.  Tayati  subdued  it,  and  con- 
verted the  sanctuaries  into  Hindu 
places  of  worship,  but  in  1558  Kalapa- 
har,  a  famous  cnampion  of  Islam,  de- 
feated the  Hindus  in  a  great  battle  at 
Gahvara  Tekri,  4  m.  to  the  N.E.  of 
Jajpur.  It  is  believed  that  whok 
armies  are  buried  here.  Ealapahai 
demolished  all  the  Jlindu  temples,  end 
the  accumulated  treasures  of  art  of  lOOO 
years  were  lost  for  ever. 

Jajpur  (pop.  11,000)  is  situated  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Baitarani  river.  It 
was  the  capital  of  Orissa  until  the  lltii 
century,  when  it  was  superseded  by 
Cuttack.  With  the  aid  of  a  palH  o' 
a  pony,  the  visitor  can  see  all  that  is  to 
be  seen  at  Jajpur  in  one  day.  dose 
to  the  D.B.  is  a  noble  mosque,  built  5y 
Nwwab  Abu  Nasir  in  1681  a.]>.  out  A 
the  stones  of  Hindu  palacesand  temples. 
Adjoining  the  mosque  is  the  residence 
of  the  Magistrate,  m  whose  compound 
are  to  be  seen  three  monolithic  statues  of 
blue  chlorite.^  One  is  Indrani,  wife  of 
Indra,  the  air-god,  afour-anned  goddess, 
with  an  admirably-cut  elephant  as  her 
footstool.  The  earth  goddess,  Tarahini, 
the  wife  of  Vishnu  in  his  boar  incarna- 
tion, sits  with  her  infant  on  her  knee. 
The  most  striking  of  the  three  mono- 
liths represents  Onamunda,  the  wife  of 
the  All-Destroyer,  a  colossal  naked 
skeleton,  with  the  skin  hannng  to  the 
bones,  and  the  veins  and  musclds 
standing  out  in  ghastly  fidelity.  These 
fijnires  are  finely  carved,  and  the  details 
of  the  ornaments  are  worth  observa- 
tion. A  temple  to  Yishnu,  in  his  boar 
incarnation,  crowns  a  flight  of  stairs 
leading  up  from  the  river. 

In  a  gallery  overlooking  the  driei^p 
bed  of  die  river  are  seven  idols,  elabor- 
ately carved,  and  each  made  of  a  block 
of  chlorite  6  ft.  high.  Mr.  James 
thinks  they  have  been  collected  from 
various  desecrated  shrines,  and  that 
some  pious  Hindu,  seeing  them  placed 

1  They  were  brought  from  the  Cenotaph  of 
Saiyad  'All  Bukhari,  a  Fathan  saint,  who  ac- 
companied Ealapahar,  and  when  his  head  was 
cut  off,  at  the  siege  of  Barahati,  rode  without 
it  to  Jaipur,  and  was  buried  there. 


ROUTE  21.      JAJPUE 


291 


ftgainst  a  wall,  erected  a  vaulted  roof 
over  them,  and  a  wall  in  front.  Six 
of  them  are  goddesses  with  four  arms 
each,  the  seventh  is  Narsing.  The 
first  ^ddess  is  Kali,  or  Chamunda, 
treading  on  her  l^usband  Shiva.  The 
Qext  is  the  wife  of  Yama,  or  "  Death," 
with  a  swine's  head ;  at  her  feet  is  a 
buffalo.  Next  is  the  wife  of  Indra;  an 
elephant  serves  her  as  footstooL  Lakh- 
shmi  comes  next ;  with  two  hands  she 
holds  a  child,  in  a  third  Vishnu's  Wheel, 
and  in  her  fourth  a  shell.  Beneath 
her  feet  is  Graruda.  Next  is  a  naked 
emaciated  old  hag,  the  Mother  of  Death, 
squatting  down.  Below  her  are  two 
votaries,  and  between  them  three  kinds 
of  bells— the  beU  of  Yama,that  of  Eall, 
and  that  of  Vishnu.  Savitri,  the  wife 
of  Brahma,  comes  next  Parbati  comes 
next,  with  a  bull  at  her  feet.  Below 
N'arsing  are  two  groups  of  worshippers 
and    female    attendants    waving    the 

Close  to  the  gallery  is  a  temple  con- 
taining a  large  image  of  Ganpati. 
Opposite  the  gallery,  in  a  wooded 
islmd  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  is  the 
second  great  temple,  dedicated  to  the 
boar  incarnation,  and  groups  of  smaller 
temples.  Beside  the  mam  flight  of 
■teps  which  lead  up  from  the  river  are 
two  roofless  temples,  over  the  gate  of 
which  is  an  effigy  of  the  Swn  driving 
six  Tiorses,  and  a  bull  in  the  midst 

S.  about  1}  m.  along  the  Bingapur 
hi^h.  road,  turn  L  to  the  most  beautiful 
object  in  J^jpur— the  Qa/ruda  Pillar^ 
32  ft.  high;  the  base  is  5  ft.  5  in. 
highy  square,  and  composed  of  large 
blocks  of  stone  without  any  ornament. 
The  shaft  and  capital  are  26  ft.  7  in. 
high,  and  appear  to  be  a  monolith.^  The 
capital,  of  exquisite  proportion,  is  carved 
to  imitate  lotus  blossoms,  and  adorned 
below  with  lions*  heads,  from  whose 
mouths  depend  strings  of  roses  or  beads. 
The  capital  once  was  crowned  with  a 
figure  01  Garuda.  The  Garuda  is  said  to 
have  been  hurled  from  the  summit  of  the 
pillar  by  the  Mohammedans,  who  at- 
tempted also  to  destroy  the  pillaritself. 

1  The  six-sided  shaft  is  about  17  ft.  7  in. 
high  and  is  in  one  piece  with  an  octagonal 
hase  on  a  square,  the  whole  being  about  19  ft. 
8  in.  over  all. 


The  Garuda,  or  a  fac-simile  of  it,  now 
stands  in  the  ante-chamber  of  a  small 
temple  of  Narsing,  in  Madhupur,  a 
village  about  1  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
temjSe  of  Jagannath  at  Jajpur.  It  is 
a  fine  piece  of  sculpture  4  ft.  high, 
carved  out  of  black  chlorite,  and  repre- 
sents a  human  figure  resting  on  one 
knee,  the  palms  of  the  hands  pressed 
together  in  an  attitude  of  devotion. 
Short  wings  are  attached  to  the 
shoulders,  and  while  the  hair  of  the 
fore  part  of  the  head  is  dressed  in  the 
shape  of  a  mitre,  the  back  part  of  the 
head  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of 
curls.  The  &ce  and  attitude  are 
majestic,  but  the  nose  is  lengthened  to 
imitate  a  bird's  beak.  It  rests  on  a 
pedestal  which  is  an  exact  duplicate 
of  the  capital  and  upper  shaft  of  the 
pillar. 

Return  now  to  the  Bingapur  road, 
and  proceed  to  the  Maratha  Bridge^  a 
fine  specimen  of  architecture.  It  is  not 
so  large  as  the  bridge  of  the  same  name 
at  Pun,  but  has  twelve  horizontal 
arches,  and  is  built  in  precisely  the 
same  fashion.  It  appears  to  be  of 
extreme  antiquity,  and  has  been  re- 
paired with  fragments  of  carvings  in 
relief  taken  from  temples.  It  also  goes 
by  the  name  of  the  Devidwar,  lit. 
**  Goddess-doer  Bridge,"  from  its  prox- 
imity to 

The  Temple  of  Biraja^  **the  Passion- 
less One,"  500  yds.  farther  on  through 
beautifal  groves  of  palms  and  mango 
trees,  and  opposite  the  Brahma  Kund, 
a  tank  faced  with  stone.  Hindus  alone 
are  admitted  to  the  temple,  but  through 
the  breaches  in  the  enclosure  can  be 
seen  the  Hall  of  Audience  and  the  tall 
spire.  There  are  some  curious  sculp- 
tures let  into  the  wall  at  the  portico. 

Regain  the  highway,  and  a  little  be- 
yond the  second  milestone,  200  yds. 
from  the  road,  on  the  left-hand  side,  is  the 
Temple  of  Trilochan^  or  the  three-eyed 
god,  i.e.  Shiva.  The  base  of  the  original 
tower,  which  is  now  about  60  ft.  high, 
has  survived  the  general  ruin,  and  for  a 
height  of  about  14  ft.  from  the  ground 
still  stands,  richly  carved  as  of  yore, 
giving  some  idea.of  the  past  glories  of 
Jajpur.  The  rest  of  the  building  is 
covered  with  stucco. 


898 


BOUTB  22.      FOONA  TO  OOA 


India 


Between  the  Temple  of  Trilochan 
and  the  road»  in  an  under^und  cham- 
ber, LB  a  very  holy  and  frightful  imafe 
of  Kali  with  eighteen  arms.  In  a  tem^e 
on  the  other  side  of  the  road  are  some 
fine  sculptures.  A  pipul  tree  growing 
on  the  top  of  the  spire  of  this  temple 
has  ffradaally  forced  its  roots  to  the 
yeiy  oottom,  and  is  slowly  rending  it 
asunder. 

Jajpur  formerly  stood  on  the  main 
road  to  Pari,  ana  the  pilgrims  to  Ja- 
eannath  used  regularly  to  resort  to  it, 
but  the  sanctity  of  the  place  has  much 
diminished.  It  is,  howeyer,  worthy  of 
inspection  bjr  all  who  take  an  interest 
in  Hindn  antiquities.  Many  fragments 
of  halls  and  temples,  all  buiit  of  nne  cut 
stone,  are  to  be  found  in  the  town.  A 
nautch  at  this  place  is  very  different 
from  the  dull,  stupid  ceremony  which 
passes  under  that  name  at  Calcutta 
and  in  the  rest  of  India.  The  ancient 
palace  at  Jajpur  was  destroyed  by  the 
officers  of  the  English  Public  works 
Department,  who  built  bridges  along 
the  Trunk  Road  with  the  stones.  At 
1^  m.  to  the  E.  of  Jajpur  a  colossal 
figure  of  Padmapani  was  du^  up  ;  the 
feet  are  lost,  but  the  total  height  must 
haye  been  about  17  ft.  6  in.  This  figure 
is  now  called  Shanta  Madhaya :  it  has 
been  remoyed  to  the  Magistrate's  com- 
pound. 

Should  the  trayeller  prefer  it,  he 
may  return  to  Calcutta  via  Balasore ; 
which  is  only  65  m.  in  a  direct  line 
from  Jajpur  to  Chandbali(45  m.),  from 
which  steamers  run  eyery  week.] 

Balasore,  D.  B.  This  place  was  once 
of  great  commercial  importance,  and  the 
Dutch,  and  the  Danes  also, had  a  factonr 
here.  The  French  still  possess  a  small 
territory  of  some  100  acres  at  Balasore  ; 
where  the  (swinging)  Churruck  Puja, 
long  stopped  throughout  British  India, 
is  annually  celebrated. 


ROUTE  22 

POONA  TO  MaHABALESHWAB, 
KOLHAPUR,  BeLGAITM,  AND  GOA 

Poona  (see  p.  325),  the  Southen 
Maratha  Railway  branches  S.  from  the 
G.I. P.  2  m.  £.  of  the  station.  Passing 
through  three  hill  ranges,  reaches 

68  UL  Wathar  sta.  3^  (R.) 

[Passengers  leaye  the  train  here  for 
Mahabaleahwar,  the  principal  hill- 
station  of  the  Bombay  Presidency, 
about  40  m.  distant  by  road  to  the  W. 

Carnages  and  tongas  can  be  had  at 
Wathar  by  giying  notice  to  the  mail 
contractor  at  Mahabaleahwar.  It  is  a 
charming  driye  of  about  5  hrs. ;  ths 
first  part  through  rolling  coiintry  to 

18  m.  Wai,  D.K  (pop,  12,000), 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  rustic  towiit 
in  the  Deccan.  It  is  situated  on  thf 
left  bank  of  the  Krishna,  which  « 
lined  with  beautiful  pipul  and  mango 
trees,  and  with  handsome  flights  e( 
stone  steps.  Behind  the  city  rise  hiHi 
of  all  the  shapes  which  are  peculiar  to 
the  mountains  in  the  Deccan.  Theie 
are  round,  peaked,  flat-topped  hills; 
some  coyered  with  rocks  looking  at  a 
distance,  like  forts  and  castles.  One 
hill  near  the  city  rises  very  abruptiy, 
and  has  a  hill-fort  on  the  top.  It  is 
called  Pandugarh.  The  nearest  templa 
to  the  D.  B. — ^and  the  riyer  is  lined  with 
beautiful  temples-^is  dedicated  to  Oai^ 
pati ;  the  next  to  Mdhadeo ;  and  one, 
at  some  distance,  to  LaJcshmi.  They 
form  the  great  beauty  of  this  most 
pictures<^ue  spot.  The  mandapaTn,  or 
canopy,  m  front  of  Mahadeo's  temple 
is  yery  light,  and  a  fine  specimen  of 
carving  in  stone.  The  Rastia  fisunily 
have  an  excellent  mansion  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  town,  called  the  Moti 
Baghy  or  "Pearl  carden."  The  road 
thither  is  beautifully  shaded  by  splendid 
bamboos,  mangoes,  and  tamarinds.  The 
house  is  a  good  specimen  of  tiie  Moham- 
medan style.  It  is  open  on  one  side 
from  top  to  bottom,  and  shaded  by 
huge  curtains.  Wai  is  a  spot  ninch 
famed  in  Hindu  legend.  Here,  accord- 
ing to  old  tradition,  the  Pandas  spent 
part  of  their  banishment,  and  performed 
many  wonderful  works.  On  this  ac- 
count, as  because  of  its  proximily  to  the 


ROUTE  22.       FANGHaANNI ^MAHABALESHWAB 


293 


Krishna  nver  so  near  its  source,  Wai  is 
viewed  as  a  place  of  great  sanctity ;  and 
there  is  a  college  of  Brahmans  estab- 
lished at  it,  once  in  much  repute. 

About  6  m.  from  Wai  up  the  Krishna 
is  the  village  of  Dom,  where  is  a  very 
handsome  temple,  with  a  gigantic  basin 
in  the  middle  of  the  court  of  white 
marble,  the  edges  carved  with  lotus 
leaves.  There  is  also  a  pillar  about  5 
ft.  high,  having  five  heads  of  Shiva  on 
the  top,  with  cobras  twisting  round 
them,  all  in  white  marble. 

The  most  curious  thing  to  be  seen 
near  Wai  is  a  gigantic  Banyan  Tree,  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  Wairat- 
garh,  about  8  m.  from  Wai.  The  exact 
area  shaded  by  it  is  three-quarters  of 
an  acre.  The  space  covered  is  a  very 
symmetrical  oval.  There  is  no  brush- 
wood underneath,  nor  aught  to  im- 
pede the  view  save  the  stems  of  the 
shoots  from  the  parent  tree.  On  leav- 
ing Wai  the  road  begins  a  steep 
ascent. 

29  m.  Panchganni,  a  very  large 
village,  containing  many  bungalows 
belonging  to  Europeans,  with  nice 
plantations  about  them.  In  fact,  many 
visitors  who  come  to  the  hills  prefer 
to  stop  at  Panchganni  rather  than 
Mahabaleshwar,  because  the  rainfall  is 
less,  and  the  place  can  be  made  a  per- 
manent residence.  From  Panchganni 
the  road  descends  a  little  for  one-third 
of  a  mile.  The  country  round  is  covered 
with  low  jungle  and  patches  of  culti- 
vation. 

About  1  m.  from  Mahabaleshwar  vil- 
lage, the  small  lalce  made  by  the  Rajah 
of  Satara  is  passed  on  the  right ;  it 
winds  picturesquely,  and  is  about  810 
yds.  long,  and  not  quite  200  yds.  broad. 
40  m.  Mahabaleshwar  3^  is  a  lofty 
tableland,  7  m.  long  by  about  3  m. 
wide,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  abrupt 
precipices,  covered  with  foliage  except 
where  bold  rocks,  called  "points,"  break 
through.      These  hills  are  in  N.  lat. 
17**  56',  E.  long.  7S°  30' :  their  general 
elevation  is  4500  ft.  above  the  sea,  from 
which  they  are  only  25  m.  due  E.     A 
large  part  of  the  surface  of  the  hills  is 
indurated  iron-clay  or  laterite,  which 
overlies  basalt  ana  other  members  of 
the  seoondary   trap -formation.      The 


Pteris   aquiUna,    or    common    brake, 

frows  very  plentifully  on  the  hills,  as 
o  the  willow,  the  Migenia  jambos  and 
Gardenia  montana.  There  are  a  few 
oaks.  The  Tetranthera  and  Cortilania 
flower  in  November,  also  the  Anjun, 
or  iron-wood.  There  are  30  species  of 
ferns,  of  which  the  principal  are  the 
Aerostichum  aureum,  the  Actiniopteris 
radiata,  the  Adiarvtum  laudatum, 
the  Aspidmm  cocMeatum,  the  Asple- 
niwm  erectwm  and  falcatum,  the  Pteris 
liccida  and  qiiadriaurita.  The  geo- 
graphical position  of  this  range  secures 
to  it  a  redundant  supply  of  moisture 
during  the  S.  W.  monsoon,  and  has  ren- 
dered it  a  fruitful  parent  of  the  rivers 
that  fertilise  the  Deccan.  To  the  site 
of  the  temple  of  Mahadeo  at  Maha- 
baleshwar village,  mentioned  below, 
Brahmans  assign  the  honour  of  giving 
birth  to  the  Krishna  and  four  other 
streams. 

Mahabaleshwar  is  a  favourite  resort 
of  the  people  of  Bombay  in  the  hot 
weather,  and  a  Government  sanitarium 
with  eight  sets  of  quarters.  Rooms 
for  one  person  are  charged  at  the  rate 
of  40  rs.  per  month. 

The  centre  of  the  European  quarter 
was  called  Malcolm  Peth  by  the  Rajah 
of  Satara  in  honour  of  Sir  John  Mal- 
colm, who  resided  much  on  these  hills 
when  governor  ;  it  contains  a  lAbrary, 
Club,  Ohv/rch,  Sir  Sydney  Beckwith's 
MonumevU,  and  a  Cemetery. 

The  village  of  Mahabaleshwar  (see 
below)  is  3  m.  to  the  N.  of  Malcolm 
Peth. 

Climate. — The  annual  mean  tempera- 
ture of  Malcolm  Peth  is  65**  F.  During 
the  monsoon,  from  middle  of  June  to 
end  of  September,  it  is  uninhabitable 
on  account  of  the  rains,  and  so  equable 
is  the  climate  during  that  perioa,  and 
indeed  until  February,  that  the  mean 
heat  of  any  month  does  not  differ  4*, 
and  for  more  than  half  the  time  not 
2°  from  the  annual  mean ;  whilst  the 
mean  of  the  hottest  month  only  exceeds 
it  by  7J**.  The  average  daily  range  of 
the  thermometer  in  the  open  air 
throughout  the  year  is  only  8°.  The 
season  for  visiting  the  hills  commences 
in  the  beginning  of  October.  The  at- 
mosphere is  then  still  very  moist,  but 


294 


B0T7TB  22.      POOKA  TO  OOA 


Inik 


in  general  clear  and  fair  daring  the 
day,  with  gentle  showers  in  the  evening. 
By  these  and  the  prevailing  light  h, 
winds  the  air  is  delightfully  cooled,  the 
mean  temperature  ranging  helow  66**. 

Amongst  the  sights  to  see  near  Ma- 
habaleshwar  are  the  Falls  of  the*  Yena, 
at  the  head  of  a  wild  mountain  gorge 
of  that  name  on  the  right  of  the  road 
to  the  Tai  Ghat,  and  reached  by  a  by- 
path from  a  point  on  the  Satara  Road. 
The  stream  is  here  precipitated  over 
the  face  of  a  steep  cliff  with  a  sheer 
descent  of  600  ft ,  unbroken  when  the 
torrent  ia  swollen  bj  rain,  but  ordinarily 
divided  by  projectmg  rocks  about  one- 
third  of  the  way  down,  and  scattered 
below  into  thin  white  streaks  and  spray, 
which  are  often  circled  by  rainbows 
from  the  oblique  rays  of  the  sun. 

Lodwick  Point  should  be  visited, 
tossing  through  the  village  of  Malcolm 
*eth.  At  about  J  m.  before  reaching 
the  monument  to  General  Lodwick  the 
carriage  atope,  and  the  rest  of  the  way 
must  be  done  on  foot  or  on  a  pony. 
The  column  is  about  25  ft.  hi^h.  The 
spot  commands  a  noble  view  over 
Pratapgarh  to  the  W.  and  Makrangarh 
to  the  S.W. 

On  the  right  of  the  road,  and  on  the 
way  to  Elphmstone  Point,  is  the  ancient 
village  of  MahabaUahwar,  It  is  a  small 
place,  but  of  great  sanctity  in  the  eyes 
of  the  Hindus,  as  being  the  spot  where 
the  Krishna  and  four  other  rivers  have 
their  source.  There  are  several  temples, 
one  very  old,  of  black  stone,  said  to 
have  been  buUt  by  a  Gauli  Baja. 
Another  built  by  the  same  chief,  and 
called  Eoteshwar,  commands  a  grand 
view  over  the  Wai  valley.  The  prin- 
cipal temple,  however,  is  called  Maha 
baleshwar. 

Elphinstone  Point  is  the  grandest  of 
all  the  precipitous  scarps  which  over- 
hang the  low  country.  This  is  about 
4  m.  by  a  good  road  to  the  W.  of  Ma- 
habaleshwar  Temple.  There  is  a  sheer 
descent  of  above  2000  ft.,  though  not 
so  steep  at  the  summit  but  that  wild 
bison  have  been  seen  to  gallop  down 
some  part  A  rock  rolled  from  the 
top  thunders  down  and  crashes  into 
the  forests  below.  The  view  extends 
to  the  mountains,  among  which  is  the 


hill-fort  of  Toma,  over  an  apparently 
uninhabited  jungle.  To  the  right  of 
the  Point  is  Arthur's  Seat,  anoth^ 
fine  view  which  must  by  no  means  be 
omitted.  It  has  its  name  from  Mi. 
Arthur  Malet,  C.S.,  who  first  built  a 
house  here. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  Fratabgaib, 
a  picturesque  hill-fort  crowning  a  pre- 
cipitous rock,  remarkable  as  tlie  strong- 
hold of  Shivaji,  and  as  the  scene  of  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  events  in 
Indian  history,  the  founding  of  the 
Maratha  empire.  A  charming  drive 
of  6  m.  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  hills, 
whence  a  steep  and  difficult  path  ascends 
to  the  gates  of  the  fortress.  Shivaji, 
the  robber,  in  1656  having  provoked 
hostilities  with  Bijapur,  whose  army  he 
could  not  meet  in  the  open,  determmed 
to  overcome  its  general,  Afzal  Ehan, 
by  stratagem,  ana  pretending  to  be  in 
a  state  of  great  alarm  at  the  approacli 
of  the  Bijapur  army  to  besiege  Partab- 
garh,  offered  to  make  his  submission 
to  Afzal  Ehan  at  a  personal  interview, 
on  condition  that  the  two  commanders 
should  meet  unarmed,  in  the  midst, 
between  the  two  armies  with  only  one 
armed  attendant.  They  accordinglT 
approached  from  either  side,  attired, 
to  all  appearance,  in  white  muslin 
robes,  but  Shivaji  wore  under  his  robe 
and  turban  a  coat  of  maU,  and  carried 
concealed  in  one  hand  a  cruel  instru- 
ment called  **the  timer's  claws,"  con- 
sisting of  sharp  steel  hooks  attached 
by  rings  to  his  fingers.  In  the  very 
act  of  embracing  in  an  attitude  of 
abject  humility,  Snivaji  stuck  his  claws 
into  the  Ehan,  tore'  out  his  vitals,  and 
despatched  him  with  a  hidden  da^er. 
His  head  was  struck  off  and  buried 
under  the  old  tower  in  the  Fort,  now 
fallen  to  ruin.  Meanwhile  the  Maratba 
army,  which  had  been  concealed  in 
ambush  in  the  jungle,  rushed  out  upon 
the  Bijapur  forces,  dispersed  them,  and 
cut  them  to  pieces.] 

Returning  to  Wathar  sta.  the  line 
proceeds  to 

77  m.  Satara  Road  sta.  From  here 
it  is  a  10  m.  drive  by  tonga  or  carriage 
to  Satara.  Satara,  D.B.  (pop.  25,000), 
is  situated  in  a  hollow  between  two 
ranges  of  hills,  which  rise  above  it  on 


ROUTE  22.   SATABA 


295 


Jie  E.  and  W.,  and  partly  overlap  it 
»n  the  S.      The  hill  on  the  W.  is  the 
termination  of  a  spar  from  the  Maha- 
jaleshwar  Hills.     From  this  hill  to  the 
:ity  there  is  an  aqueduct  4  m.  long, 
ind  there  are  also  two  fine  tanks.    The 
dty  has   many  historic  recollections, 
stnd  the  station  is  one  of  the  most  salu- 
brious and   pleasant  in  the  Deccan, 
being  close  to  the  foot  of  the  Maha- 
baleshwar  Hills.      The  CwrUonment  is 
about  1^  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  nearly 
the  same  from  E.  to  W.     Jn  the  S.  end 
is  the  Kesidency  compound.     Outside 
the  K.  gate  of  the  Residency  are  lines 
for  the  European  soldiers,  and  the  native 
lines  and  Sadr  bazaar  to  the  N.  of  them. 
St,  TJunnas's  Chv/rch,  700  yds.  W.  of 
the  native  lines,  was  opened  in  1850. 
At  the  E.  end  is  a  handsome  stained 
glass  window,  and  here  also  is  a  carved 
screen  and  roof  of  teak,  and  a  pulpit 
of  pohshed  gray  stone.      J  m.   W.  of 
the  English  barracks  is  a  large  tree 
with  a  stone  bench  round  it,'ascended 
hy  steps.    It  has  an  interesting  inscrip- 
tion to  the  memory  of  hia  late  High- 
ness Shahji  Raja,   of  Satara,  and  of 
H.  B.   E.   Frere,  Esq.,  once   British 
Commissioner  of   Satara.      The  New 
Cemetery  is  ^  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
European  barracks,  and  is  planted  with 
flowers  and  cypresses  ana  other  fine 
trees."  The  road  from  the  Old  Cwnetery 
leads  W.  through  a  bazaar  for  about  J 
m.  and  past  the  Jumma  Musjid  on  the 
left  to 
The  New  Pdlacey  built  by  Apa  Sahib, 
*  near  the  centre  of  the  city,  a^d  ad- 
joining the  Old  Palace.    On  the  fagade 
are  a  number  of  mythological  pictures, 
much  defaiced  by  the  weather.    On  the 
K.  side  of  the  court  is  a  vast  hall,  one 
of  the  largest  in  India.     In  the  front 
coart  are  the  offices  of  the  collector 
and  his  assistants,  and  W.  of  the  hall 
are  those  of  the  judge.     The  roof  is 
supported  by  siity-four  teak  pillars, 
besides  four  in  front     The  Old  Palace 
is  very  shabby,   and  quite  deserted. 
About  200  yds.  beyond  this  is  a  prettr 

C''Bn  and  viUa  belonging  to  Kajah 
,  who  was  adopted  by  the  late 
Rani.  He  is  in  possession  of  the  crown 
jewels  of  the  Satara  family,  and  of 
Jai  Bhawani,   the   famous   sword  of 


Shivaji,  and  his  other  arms.  The 
sword  is  S  ft.  9  in.  long  in  the  blade, 
and  the  handle  is  8  in.  long,  but  so 
small  that  a  European  can  hardly  get 
his  hand  into  it.  Like  most  of  the 
famous  blades  in  India,  it  is  of  Euro- 
pean make,  and  has  the  stamp  of  Genoa. 
The  Waghnobkhy  or  "  tiger's  daw,"  with 
which  Shivaji  wounded  Afzal  Khan, 
consists  of  four  steel  claws,  with  rings 
which  pass  over  the  first  and  fourth 
fingers,  but  are  too  small  for  a  European 
hand.  The  shield  is  of  rhinoceros  hide, 
and  has  four  stars  or  bosses  of  diamonds. 
The  gold'  casket  for  holding  Shivaji's 
seal  is  ornamented  with  diamonds, 
rubies,  pearls,  and  emeralds,  and  there 
is  an  inkstand  and  penholder  of  gold 
similarly  begemmed.  The  quilted  coat 
which  Shivaji  wore  when  he  murdered 
Afzal  Khan  may  also  be  seen.  It  is 
lined  with  chain  armour,  which  is 
hidden  by  thick  masses  of  padding  and 
silk,  embroidered  with  gold.  It  is 
very  heavy.  The  dagger  is  very  hand- 
some, and  is  18  in.  long.  The  dia- 
monds, emeralds,  and  rubies  in  the 
handle  are  very  fine. 

The  gate  of  the  Fort  is  on  the  N. 
side,  and  a  very  steep  zigzag  path  leads 
up  to  it.  The  ascent  lies  at  first  along 
the  foot  of  a  ridge.  After  ^  m.  or  so, 
the  ridge  is  crossed,  and  the  path  pro- 
ceeds along  the  brink  of  a  precipice 
which  looks  utterly  impracticable.  The 
gate  is  of  stone,  and  very  strongly 
built,  with  buttresses  40  ft.  high. 
The  interior  of  the  Fort  is  now  nearly 
desolate.  There  are  only  a  few  bunga- 
lows, with  one  small  pagoda,  and  an 
hospital.  The  Fort  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  a  Raja  of  Panhala,  who 
reigned  in  1192.^  By  him,  too,  were 
erected  the  forts  of  Bairatgarh  and  Pan- 
dngarh,  near  Wai,  and  Chandan  and 
Wandan,  near  Satara.  Long  before 
the  time  of  the  'Adil  Shahi  dynasty  at 
Bijapur,  the  fort  of  Satara  was  used  as 
a  state  prison,  and  Shivaji,  who  cap- 
tured it  in  1673,  after  a  siese  of  several 
months,  unwittingly  furnished  for  his 
descendants  a  prison  in  which  they 
were  for  years  confined.  In  1698,  at 
the  suggestion  of  Ramchandra  Pant, 
Satara  was  made  the  capital  of  the 
1  Gnmt  pair,  vol.  L  p.  260. 


296 


BOUTB  22.      FOONA  TO  60A 


India 


Maratha  Goyernment.  Next  year  Aur- 
aogzib  with  a  great  army  arrived  be- 
fore the  city  and  pitched  'his  tente  on 
the  N.  side.  'Azim  Shah  was  on  the 
W.  side,  at  a  village  since  called  Shah- 
pur.  Shirzi  Khan  invested  the  S.,  and 
Tarbiyat  Khan  occupied  the  E.  quarter. 
Chains  of  posts  between  the  different 
camps  effectually  secured  the  blockade. 
The  Fort  was  defended  by  Pryagji 
Prabhu,  hawaldar,  who  had  been  reared 
in  the  service  of  Shi vnyi.  AstheMc^uls 
advanced,  hs  withdrew  into  the  Fort,  and 
rolled  down  huge  stones  from  the  rock 
above,  which  did  great  execution.  The 
blockade,  however,  was  complete,  all 
communications  were  cut  off,  provisions 
were  exhausted,  and  the  besieged  must 
have  been  compelled  to  surrender  had 
not  Parshuram  Trimbak,  who  had 
thrown  himself  into  the  Fort  of  Prali, 
purchased  the  connivance  of  'Azim 
ohah,  and  conveyed  stores  to  the  be- 
sieged. The  grand  attack  was  directed 
against  the  N.£.  angle,  which  is  one 
of  the  strongest  points,  the  rock  being 
42  ft.  high,  with  a  bastion  on  the  top 
of  25  ft.  of  masonry.  .  Tarbiyat  Khan 
undertook  to  mine  this  angle,  and  at 
the  end  of  four  and  a  half  months  had 
completed  two  mines.  The  storming 
party,  confident  of  success,  was  formed 
under  the  brow  of  the  hilL  Aurangzib 
moved  out  in  grand  procession  to  view 
the  attack,  and  the  garrison,  and  among 
them  Pryagji,  attracted  by  the  splen- 
dour of  his  retinue,  crowded  to  the 
rampart.  The  first  mine  burst  several 
fissures  in  the  rock,  caused  a  great 
part  of  the  masonry  to  fall  inwards 
and  crush  many  of  the  garrison  to 
death ;  but  the  second  and  larger 
mine  burst  outwards  with  a  terrible 
explosion,  and  destroyed  upwards  of 
2000  of  the  besiegers.  Pryagji  was 
buried  by  the  first  explosion  close  to  a 
temple  to*  Bhavani,  but  was  dug  out 
alive.  This  was  regarded  by  the  Ma- 
rathas  as  a  happy  omen,  and,  animated 
by  it,  the  garrison  would  have  made 
a  prolonged  and  desperate  defence, 
but  provisions  fell  short,  and  'Azim 
Shah  would  no  longer  connive  at  their 
introduction.  Proposals  of  surrender 
were  therefore  made  through  hira,  and 
*>"  ^-nour  of  the  capture,  which  he  so 


ill  merited,  was  not  only  ass^ned  to 
him,  but  the  very  name  of  the  place,  in 
compliment  to  him,  was  changed  by 
the  ilmperor  to  'Azim  Tara. 

In  1705  the  Fort  was  retaken  by  the 
Marathas,  through  the  artifice  of  a 
Brahman  named  Anaji  Pant.  He  in- 
gratiated himself  with  the  Moguls 
under  the  character  of  a  mendicant 
devotee,  amusing  them  with  stories 
and  songs,  and,  bein^  allowed  to  reside 
in  the  Fort,  introduced  a  body  of 
Mawalis,  and  put  every  man  of  the 
garrison  to  the  sword.  Satara  sur- 
rendered to  the  English  in  1818,  and 
Pratap  Sing,  eldest  8on  of  Sahu  II., 
was  installed  as  Raja.  He  held  the 
principality  twenty-one  years,  and  was 
sent  prisoner  to  Benares  in  1839,  being 
succeeded  by  his  brother,  Apa  Sahib, 
on  whose  death,  in  1848,  the  territory 
was  annexed. 

The  view  from  the  Fort  is  very  beauti- 
ful, over  hills  rising^in  every  direction, 
of  varied  form,  andsome  crowned  with 
old  forts  now  crumbling  to  decay ;  cm 
a  wide  plain,  opening  out  from  the 
town,  are  the  CanUmme/tUj  the  Residericyt 
with  its  fine  garden,  and  beyond,  manj 
gardens  and  groves.  Throngh  this 
plain  runs  a  broad  excellent  road, 
shaded  by  an  avenue  of  trees  to  the 
Sangam,  or  junction  of  the  rivers 
Krishna  and  Yena  at  the  beautiful 
village  of  Mahuli. 

There  are  many  beautiful  rides  at 
Satara,  and  good  sport  to  be  had. 
Quail  are  plentiful  and  fiorican  may 
sometijnes  be  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. Foxes  are  numerous,  and  are 
coursed  with  greyhounds,  affording 
excellent  sport.  Bears,  panthers,  and 
cheetahs  may  occasiomdly  be  found. 

Mahvli. — This  pretty  place,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Kri^hma  and  Yena 
rivers,  is  about  3  m.  £.  of  Satara,  and 
thoroughly  deserves  a  visit.  It  is  con- 
sidered a  place  of  great  sanctity,  and 
the  dead  from  Satara  and  the  surround- 
ing villages  are  brought  there  for  crema- 
tion. Descending  the  river,  the  first 
temple  is  Kshetra  Mdfmli,  built  in 
1825  and  dedicated  to  Radha  Shankar. 
The  temple  is  of  basalt,  and  consists  of 
a  shrine  and  verandah,  suppwted  by 
three  small  scalloped  arches ;  the  dome 


BOUTB  22.      MIBAJ — KOLHAPUR 


297 


is  of  brick,  and  conical,  but  broken  up 
into  gradually -diminishing  rows  of 
stucco  ornamentation,  in  which  are 
niches  filled  with  images.  On  the 
same  side  of  the  river  is  the  temple  of 
Sholeshwar  Mahadeo,  built  in  1742. 
The  next  temple  is  on  the  same  bank, 
dedicated  to  Kameshwar,  and  was  built 
in  1700  A.D.  Looking  from  the  oppo- 
site bank,  one  is  struck  with  the  very 
fine  flight  of  steps  leading  up  to  it  from 
tlie  river-bed.  Close  to  tne  junction 
of  the  rivers,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Krishna  and  the  N.  of  the  Yena,  is  the 
Temple  of  Sangameshwar  Mahadeo. 
Two  flights  of  steps  lead  from  the  bank 
of  the  Krishna  to  a  door  in  the  wall  of 
the  temple  court.  In  front  is  the  sacred 
bull  under  a  canopy,  supported  by  four 
pillars.  The  architecture  is  pure  Hindu. 
This  temple  was  built  in  1679.  Below 
it  and  at  the  junction  of  the  rivers  is  a 
triangular  plot  of  ground,  with  the 
tomhs  of  the  Gusain  named  Banshapu/ri, 
and  his  disciples!  That  of  the  Gusain 
is  an  octagonal  building  of  gray  basalt, 
with  open  sides  surmounted  by  a  low 
dome.  The  largest  of  the  temples  is 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Yena,  at  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Krishna.  It  is  sacred 
to  Vishveshvar  Mahadeo^  and  was  built 
in  1735  A.D.  It  is  of  basalt,  and  en- 
closed by  an  irregular-shaped  court- 
yard o^n  on  the  side  of  the  river,  from 
which  it  is  approached  by  stepi.  It  is 
a  building  of  pure  Hindu  architecture. 
The  animal  forms  carved  in  the  capi- 
tals of  the  pillars  and  the  cornices 
deserve  notice. 

There  are  besides  these  a  great  num- 
ber of  other  temples.  In  one  observe 
a  statue  of  a  dog  sitting,  which  marks 
the  burial-place  of  a  lavourite  black 
greyhound  of  Raja  Sahu,  called  Yeda- 
raja,  or  **  Mad  King."  This  dog  saved 
the  Rajah's  life  by  its  furious  barking, 
calling  the  prince's  attention  to  a  tiger 
which  was  m  the  act  of  springing  on 
him  (see  Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  p.  30). 
The  Raja  dressed  out  the  dog  m  gold 
brocade  covered  with  jewels,  and  put 
his  own  turban  on  its  head  when  he 
was  about  to  receive  two  Maratha  chiefs 
in  fall  court.  He  also  kept  a  palanquin 
establishment  for  the  dog.  There  are 
also  some  tombs  here  to  widows  who 


performed  soM,  The  last  saU  took  place 
in  1836. 

160  m.  Miraj  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

[A  branch  line,  constructed  altogether 
at  the  cost  of  the  Kolhapur  state,  runs 
W.  to  the  capital — 

29  m.  Kolhapur  sta.,  D.B.  (pop. 
39,000),  is  the  capital  of  a  native  state 
with  a  total  area  of  about  2816  sq.  m. 
It  has  been  celebrated  for  centuries  on 
account  of  the  antiquity  of  its  temples, 
and  is  now  also  distinguished  for  its 
good,  well-designed  modem  buildings. 
The  Raja  traces  his  descent  from  the 
Maratha  chief  Shlvaji. 

His  New  Palace,  between  the  Resi- 
dency and  the  city,  was  built  at  a  cost 
of  700,000  rs.,  and  is  a  very  prominent 
object  in  the  landscape. 

The  Albert  Edward  Hospital  was 
built  in  commemoration  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales's  visit  to  India,  and  contains  a 
portrait  of  him. 

Opposite  is  the  Tovm  HaU,  situated 
in  the  Public  Gardens,  The  High 
School,  a  handsome  pile  of  buildings,  is 
near  the  Old  Palace  m  the  centre  of  the 
town,  and  fronting  it  is  the  Native 
General  Library.  The  Political  Agtnt^s 
JToustf  is  a  handsome  building.  800  yds. 
W.  of  the  D.B.  is  All  SairUs*  Churchy 
served  by  the  S.P.G.  clergy,  whose 
Mission -Jumse  is  300  yds.  off,  i  m. 
S.W.  of  the  Political  Agent's  house. 
The  Ladies'  Association  of  the  S.P.G. 
have  8  schools  and  a  Mission-house  in 
the  town. 

A  Nakar  KhoAML,  or  "Music  Gallery," 
forms  the  entrance  to  the  Palace  Square, 

To  the  right  on  entering  is  the 
Bajwada,  or  Old  Palace,  with  a  stone 
gateway  in  the  centre  and  wooden 
mllars.  On  the  second  story  is  a 
Darbar-room,  with  portraits  of  Aka 
Bai,  mother  of  the  late  chief  of  Kagal, 
and  of  Ahalya  Bai,  adoptive  mother  of 
the  late  Rajah,  Rajah  Ram.  There  is 
also  a  picture  of  the  mausoleum  at 
Florence  erected  over  the  spot  where 
Raja  Ram's  body  was  burned.  He 
died  there  returning  from  a  visit  to 
England.  In  the  third  story  is  an 
Armoury,  in  which  are  many  curious 
swords,  one  of  which  must  havebelon^d 
to  Aurangzeb,  for  it  has  in  Persian 
the  name  'Alamgir,  and  the  date  1012 


298 


ROUTE  22.       FOONA  TO  60A 


India 


A.H.  There  is  also  a  Persian  sword 
given  \)j  Sir  John  Malcolm  to  the  Raja 
of  his  time. 

In  the  S.  face  of  the  square  is  the 
Treasury,  In  1857  it  was  the  scene 
of  a  remarkably  jieroic  defence  by 
Easka  Ubari,  a  native  officer,  in  the 
face  of  an  overwhelming  force  of  rebels. 

Adjoining  the  Treasury,  in  the  S. 
face  of  the  square,  are  other  Oovem- 
ment  Offijces,  and  behind  them  the  shrine 
of  Afrini  Bai,  the  tutelary  deity  of 
Eolhapur.  The  main  portion  of  the 
building  is  built  of  black  stone  from 
local  quarries.  The  carved  stonework 
below  the  dome  resembles  the  style  of 
Jain  temples  of  the  12th  century  in 
E^nara.  The  Jains  claim  this  temple, 
and  say  it  was  dedicated  to  Padmavati. 
In  the  centre  of  the  K  aide  of  the 
court  is  the  adytum,  where  is  the 
image  of  Amba  Bai.  A  brazen  image 
of  the  goddess  is  carried  round  the 
town  in  a  triumphal  car  on  the  15th  of 
April.  The  great  bell  of  the  temple  is 
inscribed,  "Ave  Maria  Gratiae  Plena 
Dominus  Tecum,"  and  must  have  been 
obtained  from  the  Portuguese  about 
the  year  1739. 

From  the  palace  the  streets  diverge 
as  radii  and  join  concentric  lanes  run- 
ning parallel  to  the  roads  which  occupy 
the  place  of  the  old  walls  pulled  down 
in  1881.  Some  interesting  Buddhist 
remains  have  been  discovered  .near 
Kolhapur,  which  testify  to  the  an- 
tiquity of  the  place,  including  a  crystal 
casket  of  the  3d  century,  found  in  a 
tope  in  the  neighbourhood. 

N.  of  the  town  is  a  sacred  spot,  the 
Brahmapuri  Hill,  where  the  Brahmans 
undergo  cremation.  About  100  yds.  K 
of  this,  close  to  the  Panchganga  river, 
is  what  is  called  the  EawCs  Oarden, 
where  the  bodies  of  the  ruling  family 
are  burned. 

From  this  spot  is  seen  a  bridge  over 
the  river,  with  five  arches,  finished  in 
1878  at  a  cost  of  £14,000.  Beyond 
Rani's  Garden  is  a  massive  stone  gate- 
way, 20  ft.  high,  which  leads  to  the 
Cenotap?i8  of  Raja  Sambhaji,  just  op- 
posite the  door  to  that  of  Shivaji,  and 
more  to  the  left,  those  of  Tara-Bai  and 
•Ai  Bai. 

The  Eolhapur  Light  Infantry  lines 


are  at  Bavmit  a  village  S  m.  from  the 
town.  They  are  exceptionally  well  kept 
It  appears  that  in  ancient  times 
Eolhapur  was  subject  to  earthquakes ; 
and  in  making  extensive  excavations 
many  temples  and  other  buildings 
were  discovered  which  had  been  over- 
whelmed with  earth. 

Bock-cut  Caves  are  found  in  various 
places,  one  in  the  Panhala  Fort,  and 
another  at  the  Pandu  Darah,  6  m.  W. 
of  Panhala,  which  is  at  the  head  of  s 
wooded  chasm  on  a  hill  1000  ft.  above 
the  plain,  but  none  of  these  places  are 
to  be  compared  with  others  that  have 
been  fully  described. 

The  conduct  of  the  Eolhapur  troops, 
led  by  turbulent  persons,  has  on  seversl 
occasions  been  the  cause  of  very  serious 
troubles,  which  in  1843  culminated  ins 
rebellion,  and  was  not  suppressed  with- 
out serious  fighting. 

In  Januarv  1845  a  British  officer 
was  appointed  Political  Superintendent 
of  the  Eolhapur  state,  a  brigade  was 
stationed  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town, 
and  various  measures  of  reform  weie 
introduced  into  the  government  with 
the  happiest  results.  Eolhapnr,  how- 
ever, was  one  of  the  few  places  in  the 
Bombay  Presidency  which  took  part  in 
the  disastrous  rebellion  of  1857.  The 
mutineers  broke  open  the  store-guard, 
stole  arms,  and  earned  off  public  treasure 
to  the  amount  of  45,000  rs. 

[Hill-forts  of  Panhala  and  Pawaa- 
gadh. — Before  leaving  Eolhapur,  the 
traveller  should  pay  a  visit  to  Panhala, 
which  lies  12  nL  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
capital.  There  is  an  excellent  road  all 
the  way  right  into  the  Fort  At  7  m. 
from  Eolhapur  tonga  ponies  should  be 
Changed.  The  last  5  m.  is  a  steep 
ascent.  Jotiba's  Hill,  close  by  the 
road,  is  covered  by  a  labyrinth  of  | 
sacred  temples  and  gatewavs.  Kone  i 
of  the  present  temples  are  of  great  age.  i 
The  three  principal  ones  are  dedicated 
to  Shiva,  and  bmlt  of  fine  blue  basalt 
In  the  same  hill  are  some  old  rock-cut 
cells.  Pawala  Caves,  near  Jotiba's  Hill, 
consist  of  one  large  hall  34  ft.  sq.  with 
fourteen  pillars.  The  inner  walls  have 
been  cut  mto  cells.  Outside  to  the  left 
is  a  very  irregular  Chaitya  cave,  81  ft 


ROUTE  22.      FANHALA,  GOKAE,  BELGAUM 


299 


deep  and  16}  ft.  wide  in  front,  with 
remains  of  dagobas.  In  the  centre 
of  the  hill  is  a  line  of  trees,  and  here 
steps  are  hewn  in  the  rock  which  lead 
to  the  temples,  the  whole  distance  being 
about  4  m.  Jotiba  is  about  2600  ft. 
above  the  sea.  The  traveller  will  pass 
under  the  scarp  of  Pawangadh,  a  fort 
which  is  about  1500  yds.  from  the  E. 
gate  of  Panhala.  Panhala  is  2992  ft. 
above  sea- level,  and,  though  not  so  high 
as  MahabalefiJiwar,  the  climate  is 
cooler,  for  the  thermometer  does  not 
rise  above  70*. 

The  Fortress  of  Panhala,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  the  W.  of  India, 
standing  up  boldly  at  the  top  of  a  rocky 
height,  was  the  stronghold  of  a  Haja 
in  1192  who  reigned  over  the  territory 
from  Mahadeo  Hills  N.  of  Satara  to 
the  river  Hiranyakeshi.  It  was  taken 
by  the  Kings  of  Bijapur,  who  restored 
it  in  1549 ;  was  captured  in  1659  by 
Shivaji,  who  made  some  of  his  most 
successful  expeditions  from  it ;  and 
surrendered  to  the  Moguls  in  1690 ; 
and  in  1844  was  stormed  and  taken  by 
the  English.  At  the  Chour  Barwawh^ 
or  quadruple  gate,  is  a  temple  to 
Maruti  ;  passing  on,  there  is  a  Moham- 
medan tomb  of  granite  on  the  1.  con- 
verted into  a  school ;  and  a  little  farther 
on  a  temple  oiSarribhaji  on  the  same  side 
of  the  road.  The  Shivaji  Tower  (1600 
A.B. )  is  a  conspicuous  building  of  two 
stories,  facing  E.  and  standing  at  the 
blink  of  a  precipice.  It  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Political  Agent  as  his  summer 
quarters,  and  commands  an  extensive 
view.  On  one  side  is  a  tolerably  level 
piece  of  ground,  where  are  the  bungalow 
of  the  American  Mission  on  the  right, 
and  the  D.B.  on  the  left,  and  near  it 
a  ruined  pavilion.  About  J  m.  S.W. 
of  the  tower  are  the  stone  granaries 
which  enabled  Shivaji  to  stand  a  siege 
of  five  months.  They  are  30  ft  high, 
57  ft.  broad,  and  130  ft.  long.  At  the 
W.  side  of  the  fort  is  the  Tin  Darwazahf 
a  triple  gate  handsomely  sculptured. 
To  the  right,  at  about  40  yds.  distance, 
is  the  place  where  the  English  breached 
and  stormed  the  fort  in  1844.  Any 
one  who  examines  this  spot  will  admire 
the  courage  and  vigour  of  the  soldiers 
who  could  ascend,  under  the  fire  of  the 


enemy,  so  steep  an  approach.  About 
parallel  with  this,  near  the  Char  Dar- 
wazah  aforesaid,  and  overhanging  the 
scarp,  is  iAitBcmg  MahaZ,  a  pavilion  used 
for  uie  Mohammedan  ladies  when  Pan- 
hala belonged  to  Bijapur.  To  the  S., 
beyond  the  school,  is  a  square-domed 
building,  said  to  be  the  Tomh  of 
Shaikh  ^adu-din  KaUaL  Near  Sado- 
ba's  Temple  is  an  old  tank,  built  1497, 
into  which  scores  of  Brahmani  women 
threw  themselves  when  our  soldiers 
stormed  the  fort.] 

Returning  to  Miraj  June,  the  line 
continues  to 

209  m.  Gokak  Road  sta.  (R.)— Four 
m.  from  here  are  the  falls  of  the  Ghat- 
parba  river  known  as  the  Gokak  Falls. 
The  traveller  must  take  provisions 
with  him,  and  should  communicate 
with  the  station-master  at  Gokak  and 
ask  him  to  make  arrangements  for  a 
conveyance.  In  the  rainy  season  the 
falls  are  very  fine,  but  at  other  times 
of  the  year  the  Tolume  of  water  is 
insignificant  The  height  of  the  fall 
is  176  ft  and. the  pool  below  is  very 
deep.  Near  the  falls,  on  both  banks, 
are  groups  of  old  temples.  There  are 
remains  of  many  dolmens  S.E.  of  the 
village  of  Konur,  1  m.  from  the  falls. 
The  Gokak  Canal,  an  important  irriga- 
tion work,  starts  from  here. 

244  m.  Belgaum  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  a 
civil  and  ndlitary  cantonment  (pop. 
23,000),  is  called  by  the  natives  Shahpur 
Belgaum,  from  the  neighbouring  jagi^ 
of  Shahpur,  which  lies  to  the  S.  It  is 
situated  in  a  plain  about  2500  ft.  above 
the  sea,  with  low  hills  in  the  distance  ; 
the  Fort  being  at  the  E.  extremity, 
the  town,  which  contains  nothing  of 
especial  interest,  lies  in  the  centre,  and 
the  cantonment  to  the  W. 

The  Fort  ia  built  of  stone,  oval  in 
shape,  with  earthen  ramparts  and  a 
ditch.  To  the  N.  is  a  large  tank,  and  to 
l^e  S.  rice-fields.  The  entrances  are  on 
the  N.W.  and  S.W.  sides ;  and  within 
are  an  arsenal,  a  barrack,  and  some 
bungalows  of  civilians  and  others.  This 
Fort  was  taken  by  Brig. -General,  after- 
wards Sir,  T.  M!unro,  on  the  10th  of 
April  1818. 

In  the  passage,  throueh  the  ^teway 
which  curves  to  a  second  gate,  is  a  row 


300 


ROUTE  22.      POONA  TO  GOA 


IvdiOk 


of  arches  with  some  good  earring.  At 
120  yds.  distant  is  the  mined  Nakar 
Ehana,  or  music  gallery,  and  on  the  left 
is  the  Fort  Chitrm,  containing  memorial 
tablets  to  C.  J.  Hanson,  C.S.,  who  was 
mardered  by  a  band  of  rebels  in  the 
night  of  the  29th  May  1858,  and  to 
Lieut  W.  P.  Shakespeare,  A.  P. 
Campbell,  and  Ensign  W.  Caldwell, 
who  all  fell  in  the  insurrection  of  Kol- 
hapur  and  Sawantwadi 

beyond  the  Nakar  Ehana  to  the  E. 
is  a  neat  plain  mosque,  and  farther  S. 
a  Jain  Temple,  built  of  laterite. 
There  is  a  low  wall  at  the  entrance, 
along  which  are  carved  figures  of 
musicians.  The  fa9ade  has  four  pillars 
and  two  pilasters,  all  of  a  very  com- 
plicated character.  The  inscription  in 
the  old  Eanara  language,  beautifully 
cut  on  a  slab  of  black  porphjrry,  which 
once  was  here,  and  is  now  in  the  Miueum 
of  the  Bombay  Asiatic  Society,  states 
that  Malikarjuna,  whose  descent  for 
three  generations  is  given,  built  the 
temple. 

llie  eecond  Jain  Temple  is  within  the 
Commissariat  Store  Yard,  and  is  very 
much  finer  than  that  outside.  The 
roof  is  a  most  complicated  piece  of 
carving,  rising  in  tiers,  with  eaves 
about  2  ft.  broad,  which  refit  on  bar-like 
corbels  from  the  pillars.  The  principal 
entrance  faces  the  N. W. ,  and  has  one 
elephant  remaining  at  the  side,  much 
mutilated, — ^there  is  a  quadruple  pend* 
ant  in  the  centre.  The  niches  are 
shell-shaped.  There  are  four  portals, 
7  ft.  square  each,  and  each  with  four 
black  Dasalt  mllars.  There  is  no 
image.  Mr.  JBurgess  says  :  "  The 
pillars  of  the  temple  are  square  and 
massive,  but  relieved  by  having  all 
the  principal  facets,  the  triangles  on 
the  base  and  neck  carved  with  floral 
ornamentations.  In  the  front  wall  of 
this  chamber  (the  third),  which  is  8  ft. 
7  in.  thick,  are  two  small  recesses, 
closed  by  sliding  stones  1  ft.  9  in. 
high.  The  door  leading  from  the  man- 
dapam  to  the  temple  has  been  carved 
with  uncommon  care.  On  the  centre 
of  the  lintel  Ib  a  Tirthankar,  and  above 
the  cornice  are  four  squat  human 
figures.  On  the  neat  coionnettes  of 
the  jambs  are  five  bands  with  human 


groups,  in  some  of  which  the  figures 
are  little  more  than  an  inch  high,  yet 
in  high  relief ;  inside  this  is  a  band  of 
rampant  Sirikas,  with  a  sort  of  high 
frill  round  the  neck  of  each.  Outside 
the  coionnettes  is  a  band  of  chaJetoea,  or 
sacred  geese,  another  of  Sinhas,  and 
then  one  of  human  figures,  mostly  on 
bended  knees." 

To  the  S.E.  of  this  temple  is  a 
mosque  called  the  Musjid-i-Safa.  Over 
the  entrance  a  Persian  inscription 
records  its  being  built  in  1619  A.D. 

Belgaum  was  taken  by  Ebwajah 
Mahmud  Gawan,  the  general  of  Mu- 
hammad Shah,  in  1472.  As'ad  Ehan 
Suri,  otherwise  called  Ehiuram  Turk, 
was  a  gigantic  warrior,  who  held  Bel- 
gaum against  all  assailants  for  a  num- 
ber of  years  in  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  There  is  a  round  seat, 
very  solid  and>  heavy,  and  about  4 
ft.  high,  in  front  of  the  mosque,  on 
which  As'ad  Khan  is  said  to  have 
often  sprung  when  dressed  in  full 
armour. 

There  are  two  cemeteries,  the  new 
one,  which  is  well  kept  and  planted 
with  flowers,  being  IJ  m.  W.  of  the 
Fort. 

St,  Mary's  Church  stands  in  the  can- 
tonment N.W.  of  the  town.  It  was 
consecrated  in  1869.  There  is  a  hand- 
some Memorial  Cross  in  the  compound 
to  twenty -three  sergeants  of  H.M.'8 
64th,  who  died  during  the  Persian  and 
Indian  campaigns,  1856-58. 

The  Tomb  of  As'ad  Khan  is  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  Sadar  Bazaar,  100  yds.  to 
the  S.  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 
It  is  a  plain  square  building  of  stone, 
with  a  dome,  and  no  inscription. 

The  Bace-cotiTse  lies  to  the  N.W.  of 
this  building,  and  it  is  a  pleasant  drive 
to  it. 

[Excursions. 

At  Butgati,  14  m.  &om  Belgaum, 
there  are  two  Indian  fig-trees  of  very 
great  size.  The  first  is  near  the 
D.B.  The  stem  forms  a  wall  of 
timber  extending  40  ft.  and  rises  to  a 
great  height ;  the  branches  spread  oat 
100  ft.  round  the  trunk.  The  otiier 
tree  is  about  1  m.  from  the  bungalon^ 


ROUTE  22.      8AHF0A0N,  SAUNDATI,  HULI 


301 


and  though  not  remarkable  for  height, 
covers  a  larger  sorfaoe  of  eround. 

EadaroU,  anciently  caUed  Kadara- 
yalli,  a  village  on  the  river  Malparba, 
is  8  m.  from  Mugnt  Khan  Hubli, 
which  is  the  second  stage  on  the  Dhar- 
war  road  from  Be^um,  and  abont  18 
m.  as  the  crow  mes  from  Belgamn. 
It  possesses  a  rained  Temple  to  Shankar 
Devok,  of  black  stone,  in  the  bed  of  the 
river,  and  inaccessible  during  floods. 
The  central  shrine  is  8  ft.  3^  in.  square, 
and  each  of  the  two  side  ones  5  ft.  6^ 
in.  The  piUars  of  the  mandapam  and 
portico  to  the  central  temple  remain  ; 
bat  the  roofs  and  the  capit&ls  of  all 
the  columns  have  been  carried  off  by 
the  river.  This  temple  is  interesting 
from  its  antiquity  and  its  singular 
position  in  the  bed  of  the  river. 

At  Bampgaon,  7i  m.  N.  by  £. 
from  Kadaroli,  is  a  well-proportioned 
mosquo.  Over  the  Mihrab  is  a  hand- 
some Tnghra  inscription,  containing 
parts  of  the  6th,  12th,  and  61st  Surahs 
of  the  Koran.  About  7  m.  K  of 
Sampgaon  is  the  village  of  Bail  Edngal, 
where  is  a  temple  which  dates  from 
about  1200  A.D.  This  temple  is  about 
54  ft.  long,  and  88  ft.  broad. 

Sanndati,  about  18  m.  to  the  E.  of 
Bail-Hangal,  and  40  m.  E.  of  Bel^um, 
has  a  temple  to  Bhavani.  It  is  in  the 
Fort,  and  was  built  by  the  Desai  of 
Narsund. 

About  1  m.  due  S.  of  Saundati  is 
the  celebrated  temple  of  Yellama,  at 
Pcurasgad,  It  is  built  in  the  bed  of 
the  Sarasvati,  a  small  stream  which  runs 
£.  from  the  hills  above  Saundati.  The 
temple  is  said  to  be  2000  years  old, 
but  was  rebuilt  in  the  beginning  of  the 
13th  century,  and  again,  except  perhaps 
the  shrine,  at  the  end  of  the  17th 
oentmry.  It  stands  in  the  middle  of  a 
court,  surrounded  by  arcades  with 
pointed  arches.  In  the  W.  gate  are 
some  pillars  like  those  of  the  Jain 
temples  at  Belgaum,  and  on  the  base 
of  one  is  an  inscription  covered  with, 
whitewash. 

Hull,  a  village  9  m.  to  the  N.E.  of 
Saundati,  has  a  temple  of  PancTuUinga 
Deva,  built  by  the  Jains  about  1100. 
On  two  pillars  of  the  outer  mandapam 
are  Eanarese  inscriptions.    At  the  foot 


of  the  hill  to  the  N.  of  the  village  is 
a  group  of  ruined  temples ;  one  built 
of  hard  compact  bluish  stone  has  a 
mandapam  48  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  The 
four  central  pillars  are  similar  to  those 
at  Belgaum,  only  the  snake  is  wanting 
on  the  bracket.  The  short  pillars  on 
the  screen  are  very  varied,  hexagonal, 
octagonal,  and  circular.  The  door- 
way of  the  shrine  is  of  porphyry,  richly 
carved,  and  on  the  lintel  is  Shri  or 
Lakshmi,  with  elephants  pouring  water 
over  her.  At  6  m.  to  the  N.  W.  from 
Huli  is  the  village  of  Mwnauli,  where 
are  eight  temples  to  Panchalinga  Deva, 
of  coarse-grained  stone,  no  way  re- 
markable for  carving.  The  snake  head 
on  the  bracket  and  their  general  style 
would  lead  us  to  assign  these  temples 
to  the  same  age  as  those  at  Belgaum, 
that  is,  to  the  end  of  the  12th  century. 
From  Manauli  to  Badami  is  two 
marches.  Badami  is  described  in  Rte. 
23.] 

277  m.  Londa  June  sta.  (R.)  (Lines 
E.  to  Bezwada  at  the  delta  of  the  Eistna 
river.    S.E.  to  Bangalore  and  Madras.) 

292  m.  Castle  Bock  sta.  (R.)  Here, 
.at  the  frontier  of  the  Portuguese  terri- 
tory of  Goa,  the  S.  Maratha  line  is 
joined  by  the  W.  of  India  Portuguese 
Rly. ,  which  in  51  m.  reaches  the  coast 
at  Marmagoa,  the  seaport  of  Goa. 
In  the  course  of  the  first  10  m.  from 
the  frontier  the  line  passes  through  a 
dozen  tunnels,  ranging  from  150  to  838 
ft.  in  length,  which  had  to  be  cut 
almost  entirely  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
Apart  from  its  commercial  importance, 
the  line  possesses  much  interest  for 
lovers  of  the  picturesque,  as  it  runs 
through  magnificent  scenery. 

8^  m.  from  Castle  Rock  is  Dudb 
Baugar  sta.,  or  the  ''sea  of  milk," 
where  there  is  a  very  fine  waterfall. 

51  m.  The  terminus  of  the  rly.  is  on 
the  quay  at  the  Port  of  Marmagoa, 
which,  as  well  as  the  line,  is  the  pro- 
perty of  the  West  of  India  Portuguese 
Railway  Company  ;  and  arrangements 
have  been  made  so  that  the  trade  is  as 
free  there  as  in  British  India. 

The  British  India  Steam  Navigation 
Company  run  vessels  to  and  from  Bom- 
bay in  26  hours. 


302 


BOUTS  22.       POONA  TO  OOA 


Iniia 


In  approttcMng  Goa  from  BomlwT  by 
sea  the  steamer  enters  a  scions  bar- 
bonr  formed  bj  two  estoanes,  with  the 
island  of  Goa  in  between  them,  and 
embraced  by  two  rocW  promontories. 
At  the  extremity  of  the  S.  arm  is  the 
landing-pkce  and  q nay  of  Marmagoa, 
where  a  steamer  of  4000  tons  can  be 
berthed.  Hereat  the  footofa  sandy  cliff 
is  the  Termiimu  mentioned  above,  of 
the  rly.,  which  leayes  on  one  side  both 
New  and  Old  Gtoa  on  its  way  through 
the  territoiy.  To  reach  them  a  small 
steamer  crosses  the  estuary  of  Marma- 
goa,  rounds  the  CabOf  the  W.  point  of 
the  island,  enters  the  estuary  of  Agn- 
ada,  ascends  the  Mondayi,  one  of  the 
two  riyera  falling  into  it,  and  passes, 
near  its  mouth,  the  fine  Fortress  and 
Ohwreh  of  lUis  Megos  on  the  1.  On 
the  rt.  is  the  island  of  Goa,  and  upon 
it,  at  about  4  m.  from  Marmagoa,  stands 

New  Goa,  3^  otherwise  Pan^im,  a 
town  of  no  pretenccb  It  contains  9500 
inhabitants,  and  more  than  half  the 
native  Twnulationare  Christian  descend- 
ants of  Hindus  converted  by  Jesuits. 

A  row  of  handsome  buildings  lines 
the  quay,  including  the  Old  Fort,  now 
the  residence  of  the  Viceroy,  who  re- 
moved hither  from  Old  Goa  abont 
1760,  and  in  1845  made  this  the  seat 
of  Government  and  capital  of  the  Por- 
tuguese territory  in  India.  Here  also 
is  the  PcUaee  of  the  ArchbisTiop,  who 
is  Primate  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  in  India,  and  assessor  of  the 
Portuguese  Viceroy  in  the  Government. 

Near  it  are  the  Barracks,  which 
hold  the  standing  army  of  800  men.  In 
front  of  them  is  a  statue  of  Alfonso 
d*  Albuquerque,  the  founder  of  Old  Goa. 

The  Telegraph  Office  is  in  a  great 
jMirt  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the 
British  Government 

The  *'  Gha  Boys,**  so  well  known  in 
Bombay  and  in  other  parts  of  India  as 
servants,  come  from  Panjim. 

A  good  road  leads  from  New  to  Old 
Goa  about  5  m.  higher  up  the  valley, 
at  first  crossing  a  causeway  thrown 
over  the  swamp  to  Rihamdar  village. 
From  here  cocoa-nut  plantations  and 
dwelling-houses  line  the  way,  which 
eommands  a  fine  view  N.  across  the 


river  to  the  hilly  wooded  conntry  be- 
yond, and  includes  a  conspicuons  romid 
hill,  crowned  by  a  chnrch  and  convent- 
ual buildings,  upon  the  river-island  el 
Divar. 

Old  Ooa  (Goa  Velha)  owes  its  origin 
to  Alfonso  d'  Albuquerque,  who  at  tiv 
head  of  a  Portuguese  expedition  of  20 
ships  and  1200  troops  attacked  snd 
carried  by  storm  after  a  severe  stmggU 
a  small  Mohammedan  town  on  tiie 
coast  of  Malabar,  1510.  On  this  ate 
he  founded  the  Christian  city.  Itrosi 
rapidly  into  prosperity  and  importanoi^ 
and  by  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent 
became  the  wealthiest  city  in  all  India, 
the  capital  and  seat  of  government  of 
the  then  vast  Portuguese  territoiy, 
with  a  population  of  200,000.  Besidei 
this  it  was  the  first  Christian  colony 
in  the  Indies,  and  the  scene  of  tJie 
mission  labours  of  St.  Francis  Xavisc. 
But  decay  followed  rapidly,  first  owing 
to  the  attacks  of  the  Dutch,  whosi 
fleets  blockaded  its  harbour ;  and  next 
because,  its  site  proving  pestilential,  it 
became  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  of 
whom  in  1890  onl^  86  remained.^  It 
is  now  literally  a  city  of  ruins,  and  is 
so  hidden  from  view  by  the  foliage  of 
the  jungle  which  has  occupied  it,  that 
the  stranger  approaches  it  unawares, 
and  drives  into  the  midst  unconscious 
that  he  is  traversing  streets  of  empty 
dwellinfin,  whose  stunted  walls  are 
occupied  by  cocoa-nut  and  other  tsll 
trees  instead  of  human  beings. 

In  the  midst  of  all  this  ruin,  Goa 
remains  a  city  of  magnificent  churches, 
four  or  five  ranking  as  first  class  and  in 
perfect  preservation,  though  not  in  the 
best  style  of  architecture,  Detra3nngthe 
degraded  taste  of  the  Jesuits. 

The  main  street,  the  only  straight  one, 
Bua  Diretta,  leads  into  a  vast  centnl 
square  composed  of  churches  and  con- 
vents. The  most  important  of  these 
and  the  holiest;  because  it  contains  tiie 
body  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  is  SL 
PaniCs,  conmionly  known  as  the  Bom 
Jesus,  erected  in  1594.  Its  handsome 
facade  runs  on  into  that  of  another  vtst 

1  Qoa  in  its  palmy  state  is  admiiably  de- 
scribed by  Captain  Marryat  in  his  Phankm 
Ship ;  in  its  present  state  by  Graham  Sand* 
berg  Mwrav*  Magag^iu,  Kovember  18MIL 


ROUTE  22.      OLD  GOA 


303 


building  with  lofty  halls  and  lengthy 
coiridora,  all  empty,  the  C<mvent  qf 
the  Jesuits,  which  though  not  finiahed 
until  1590,  88  years  after  the  death  of 
St  Frands,  had  the  merit  of  rearing 
and  sending  forth  oyer  the  world  that 
admirable  and  devoted  band  of  mission- 
aries, fhe  children  of  that  saintly  man 
.who  worked  so  hard  for  the  salvation 
of  the  heathen  in  India,  China,  Japan, 
Paraguay,  and  N.  America.  The  Order 
was  8a]9pressed  here  in  1759,  the  other 
monastic  orders  not  till  1835,  when 
their  property  was  confiscated  to  the 
state.  The  endowments  of  the 
churches,  however,  have  not  been  for- 
feited, and  the  Archbishop  and  the 
secular  clergy  of  Goa  still  receive  allow- 
ances from  Government. 

Hie  Church  of  Bom  Jesiu  may  be 
entered  by  a  side  door  from  the  Jesoits' 
College,  passing  the  Sacristy,  a  spacious 
haU,  with  wardrobes  filled  with  rich 
priestly  robes.  Near  it  hangs  a  portrait 
of  St.  Francis  Xavier  at  the  a^  of  44, 
~a  dark  Ikce  of  sweet  expression. 

The  Tomb  and  Shrine  of  St  Francis 
Xamer  (1765)  occupy  a  side  chai>el, 
richly  adorned ;  the  walls  lined  with 
pictures  illustrating  some  of  the  acts 
of  his  life.  The  monument  is  a  stately 
structure,  consisting  of  three  tiers  of 
sarcophagi  of  costly  jasper  and  marble, 
the  g&t  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany. 
The  upper  tier  is  ornamented  with 
panels  curiously  wrought  in  coloured 
marbles  so  as  to  represent  scenes  in  the 
life  of  the  saint;  the  whole  is  sur- 
mounted by  the  silver  coffin  containing 
the  body,  and  adorned  with  reliefs  also 
in  silver,  and  with  figures  of  angels  in 
the  same  metal  supporting  a  cross. 
The  coffin,  weighing  600  marks  of  silver, 
is  unlocked  by  8  keys,  in  the  keeping 
of  tiie  Viceroy,  the  Archbishop,  and  an- 
other, and  has  been  frequently  opened, 
disclosing  to  public  view  the  body  in 
wonderfiu  preservation.  In  1614  came 
an  order  firom  Pope  Paul  Y .  to  amputate 
the  right  arm  and  send  it  to  Borne. 
A  relic-hunting  lady  followed  suit  by 
biting  off  two  of  his  toes  t  Since  then 
it  has  shrunk  to  a  mummy.  In  height 
it  measures  only  4  ft.  6  in. 

In  the  body  of  the  church  is  a  statue 
of  the  sainl^  of  solid  silver,  the  gift  of 


Donna  Maria,  wife  of  Pedro  II.  and 
Queen  of  Portugal;  and  behind  the 
high  altar  one  in  marble  of  Ignatius 
Loyola. 

250  yds.  distant,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  sq[uare,  stands  the  Cathedral 
(St.  Catherine),  the  church  next  in 
importance  to  the  Bom  Jesus,  and 
known  as  the  San  Prima^ial,  bnUt 
1628,  250  ft.  long,  180  wide,  with 
facade  116  ft.  high,  white-washed  in- 
siae,  with  high  utar  at  the  W.  end. 
It  alone  of  tSi  the  churches  retains  a 
staff  of  priests, — 28  canons,  who  perform 
the  service  throughout  the  year.  On 
looking  from  the  terraced  roof  of  the 
Cathedral  one  cannot  but  think  of  the 
solemn  and  terrible  sights  that  have 
been  seen  in  the  square  below,  when 
the  great  bell  of  this  church  tolled  to 
announce  the  celebration  of  an  AtUo- 
da-FL 

To  the  E.,  along  the  course  of  the 
Bua  Diretta,  stood  the  Falaee  of  the 
awful  Inquisition,  with  its  dungeons 
and  prisons,  suppressed  in  1814,  now 
an  overgrown  heap  of  ruins  an  acre  in 
extent. 

N.W.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  Arch- 
Hshop^s  PalacSy  a  magnificent  residence 
still  occupied  occasionally. 

W.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  once 
gorgeous  Church  of  San  Francesco 
(^Assisif  the  oldest  here,  having  been 
adapted  from  a  mosque.  It  was,  how- 
ever, rebuilt  1521,  except  the  porch, 
which  is  original,  and  i&  in  fair  re- 
pair. 

Near  the  ruins  of  the  Viceroy's 
Palace,  and  about  i  m.  N.  of  the 
Church  of  Bom  Jesus,  is  the  Chwrch  of 
St,  Cajstcm,  perhaps  the  best  preserved 
here,  built  1665,  and  surmounted  by 
a  dome  and  by  two  low  towers ;  the 
faQade  is  of  red  laterite,  white-washed. 
It  contains  some  life-sized  portraits  of 
Portuguese  viceroys.  In  the  adjoining 
monastery  the  viceroy  stops  on  his 
periodical  visits  to  Old  Goa.  Here  the 
archives  of  the  city  and  some  curiosities 
of  the  arsenal  are  preserved. 

Near  the  entrance  to  the  town  firom 
the  S.  are  the  Chwrch  and  Conmnt  of 
St.  Monica,  both  empty, — a  handsome 
pile  of  buildings. 

Other  chur(mes  still  intact  in  Goa 


304 


ROUTS  23.       HOTGI  TO  DHARWAR 


India 


are  Owr  Lady  of  the  JSoaary,  £^,  Antony  , 
of  Padua,   SL  Peter,   St.   Oatherifu^s 
Chapel,  Our  Lady  of  the  Mouait  I 

Other  churches  and  monasteries,  etc.,  { 
now  in  rain  are  SL  Augustine,  St. 
JohndiDio,  Our  Lady  of  Pity,  Domini- ' 
can  and  Carmelite  Churches,  St.  Alexius, 
St.  Thomas,  St.  Martin's  Chapel,  Church 
of  the  Holy  Trinity,  St.  Bonaventure  ; 
besides  Franciscan,  Carmelite,  Domini- 
can, and  Augostinian  monasteries. 


ROUTE  23 

HOTOI  TO  BiJAPUB,  BaDAMI,  AND 

Dhahwab 

Hotgi  June.  sta.  (R.)  is  9  m.  E.  of 
Bholapnr,  on  the  line  from  Bombay 
to  Madras  (see  Rte.  24).  From  Miach- 
nal,  the  station  before  Bijapur,  the 
domes  and  minarets  of  the  city  are 
plainly  seen  to  the  S. 

59  m.  BUAFUR^  sta.  30c  (originally 
Fyayapura,  city  of  victory)  (R.),  D.B. 
The  rly.  sta.  is  K  of  the  city  and  dose 
to  the  Gol  Gumbaz,  the  great  tomb  of 
Muhammad  'Adil  Shah. 

Following  Fergusson's  account  of  the 
origin  of  md  'AdU  family,  it  appears 
that — such  was  the  decay  of  the  Bah- 
mani  dynasty  of  Kalbarga  and  Bedar 
before  the  end  of  the  14th  century — 
the  Hindus  might  have  recovered  their 
original  possessions  in  Southern  India 
but  for  the  appearance  in  the  field 
of  one  of  their  opponents'  generals, 
Yusaf  Khan,  a  son  of  Amuratii  II.,  of 
Anatolia.  He  was  a  Turk  of  pure 
blood,  and  as  it  happens,  bom  in  Con- 

1  An  admirable  euide  to  BUapur,  by  H. 
Cousens,  giving  details  of  all  the  buildings, 
and  a  valuable  historical  sketch  of  the  'Adil 
Shahi  dynasty,  can  be  bought  at  the  principal 
booksellers  in  Bombay  and  Poon«i 


stantinople,  though  his  mother  nm 
forced  to  fly  thence  while  he  was  stiH 
an  infant.  After  a  varied  career,  be 
was  purchased  for  the  bodyguard  tt 
Bedar,  and  soon  raised  himself  to  sodi 
pre-eminence,  that  in  1489  he  was  «- 
abled  to  proclaim  his  independence,  and 
establish  himself  as  the  founded  of  tlie 
'Adil  Shahi  dynasty  of  Bnapur.  Dm 
following  is  the  order  of  their  siu- 
cession : — 

A.D. 

Yusaf  Khan,  'Adil  Shah    1489 


Ismail 

1510 

Mallu 

1534 

Ibrahim  I. 

1534 

'Alii. 

1667 

Ibrahim  II. 

1580 

Muhammad 

1627 

'Ali  II. 

1666 

Sikandar 

1672  to  168«; 

in  which  year  the  city  was  taken  hi 
Auiangaeb.  The  king  was  oaptani 
and  brought  before  him  in  silver  chaini 
and  the  'Adil  Shahi  dynasty  ceased  t»; 
exist.  I 

The  Ealadgi  district  was  reDsmed; 
B\japar  in  18S3  when  Govemmflnt 
decided  to  reoccupy  the  old  capital  «{ 
administrative  headquarters  of  the  dv-j 
trict.  The  area  of  the  district  ■ 
5757  sq.  m.,  and  the  pop.  638,600 
and  alreadv  its  whole  aspect  is  chan^^ 
Great  difficulty  was  experienced  in 
clearing  ground  for  roads  and  hooM 
from  the  large  areas  of  prickly  peir 
that  had  to  be  removed.  The  statiai 
is  now  well  planted  with  trees. 

Torwah  about  1610  A.D.  was  a  sreik 
suburb,  a  rival  city,  to  the  W.  fli 
Bijapur;  but  when  Aurangzib  tool 
Bijapur,  Torwah  was  already  ^'quiftl 
depopulated,  its  ruined  paJaoes  onh 
remaining,  with  a  thick  wall  surroimih 
ing  it,  whose  stately  gateways  wen 
falling  to  decay."  This  suburb,  thfl^ 
whose  walls  extended  3  m.  from  thf 
W.  gate  of  the  Fort>  and  probably  otiMi 
suburbs  which  have  now  utterly  p* 
ished,  must  have  been  included  in  tkt 
30  m.  circuit  which  tradition  ascrilM 
to  Bijapur.  What  is  called  the  ci| 
now  is  the  Fort,  of  which  Grant  Da 
says  that  it  was  6  m.  in  circumfereDd 
Within  the  walls  <rf  the  Fort  is 
Citadel,  with  walls  extending  1650  it 


«t5  (fl*  hS^  Q.£^:Q  S:?^5(g  ^ 


ROUTE  23.      BIJAPUR 


305 


from  N.  to  S.,  and  1900  ft.  from  W.  to 
EL  An  examination  of  the  buildings 
will  give  proof  of  the  former  riches  and 
magnificence  of  this  old  capital.  Two 
iays  will  not  be  too  much  to  devote  to 
theprincipal  buildings  alone. 
The  Qates  of  the  Fort  or  city  are — 
The  Fateh  Gate  (1),^  in  the  centre  of 
the  S.  wall  of  the  city,  that  by  which 
iurangzib  is  said  to  have  entered. 

The  Shahpur  Gate  (2),  on  the  N.  W. 
rhe  gate  itself  is  furnished  with  long 
iron  spikes  on  the  outside  to  protect  it 
from  being  battered  in  by  the  elephants 
Df  an  enemy.  This  was  a  common 
ievice  throughout  India.  S.  of  it,  on 
the  W.  of  the  city,  is  the 


In  the  centre  of  the  N.  wall  is  the 
Bahmani  Gate  (7). 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  city,  close  to 
the  rly.  sta.,  is  the  Mausoleum  of  Mtc 
hammad  *Adil  Shahf  seventh  king,  a 
magnificent  structure,  generally  called 
the  Gol  Gumbaz,  or  "Round  Dome"  (8) 
and  by  some  it  is  styled  Gul  Gumbaz,  or 
"Rose  Dome."  Mr.  Fergusson,  in  his 
Hist,  of  Indian  Arch,^  says  of  this 
buildinff:  This  tomb  of  "Mahmud^ 
was  in  design  as  complete  a  contrast  to 
that "  of  Ibrahim  II.,  described  below, 
'*as  can  well  be  imagined,  and  is  as 
remarkable  for  simple  grandeur  and 
constructive  boldness  as  that  of  Ibrahim 
was  for  excessive  richness  and  contempt 


Zohrapur  Gate  (3) ;  and  600  ft.  to 
he  S.  of  that  is  the 

Makka  Gate  (4),  with  representations 
»n  either  side  of  lions  trampling  on  an 
lephant.  This  gate  is  closed  and  con- 
certed into  a  school.  A  less  imposing 
me  (4a),  a  few  hundred  yds.  farther 
^.,  serves  its  purpose.  Almost  exactly 
jpposite  to  it  on  the  other  or  E.  side 
>f  the  Fort  is 

'Alipur  Gate  (5),  or  High  Gate, 
vrongly  called  in  maps  and  elsewhere 
;he  Allahpur  Gate.     N.  of  it  is  the 

Padshahpur  Gate  (6)  near  the  rly. 
ita. 

*  The  numbers  refer  to  the  corresponding 
lumbers  on  the  plan  of  Bijapur. 
[India] 


of  constnictive  proprieties.  It  is  con- 
structed on  the  same  principle  as  that 
employed  in  the  design  of  the  dome  of 
the  great  mosque,  but  on  so  much  larger 
a  scale  as  to  convert  into  a  wonder  of 
constructive  skill  what,  in  that  in- 
stance, was  only  an  elegant  architect- 
ural design."  It  is  built  on  a  platform 
600  ft.  square  and  2  ft.  high.  In  front  is 
a  great  gateway,  94x88  ft,  with  a 
Nakar  Khana,  music  gallery,  above. 
The  mausoleum  is  a  square  building 
1  This  king  is  called  at  Bijapur  itself 
Muhammad,  but  the  word  Mahmud,  which 
signifies  "  praiseworthy,"  occurs  in  the  second 
inscription.  He  is  called  Hahmud  in  a  paper 
mentioned  in  the  Indian  Antiquary,  vol.  ii. 
p.  3282.    His  name  was  Muhammad  Mahmur* 


306 


BOUTS  83.       BOTOX  TO  DHAItWAB 


Itidia 


witb  Bides  measuring  196  ft.  (exterior), 
and  at  each  oomer  is  &  tower  seyen 
stories  high.  In  the  centre  is  the  great 
dome,  124  ft.  in  diameter,  while  that 
of  St.  Peter's  is  only  139,  and  that  of 
St.  Paul's  108.  Oyer  the  entranoe  are 
three  inscriptions — '*  Sultan  Muham- 
mad, inhabitant  of  Paradise,"  '^Mn- 
hanunad,  whose  end  was  commendable," 
<<  Muhammad,  beotune  a  particle  of 
heayen  (lit.  House  of  Salvation),  1067." 
The  datB,  three  tunes  repeated,  is  1659 
A.D.  The  surface  of  the  building  for 
the  most  part  is  ooyered  with  plaster. 
Each  fa9aae  has  a  wide  lofty  arch  m 
its  centre,  pieroed  with  small  windows 
and  a  blind  one  'on  either  side,  and 
above  it  is  a  cornice  of  gray  basalt  and 
a  row  of  small  arches  supporting  a 
second  line  of  plain  work,  surmounted 
by  a  balustrade  6  ft.  high.  The  comer 
towers  are  entered  from  winding  stair- 
cases in  the  thickness  of  the  walls  of 
the  main  building,  and  terminate  in 
cupolas.  Each  story  has  seven  small 
arched  windows  opening  into  the  court 
below.  From  the  8th  story  there  is  an 
entrance  to  a  broad  gallery  inside  the 
dome,  which  is  so  wide  that  a  carriage 
might  pass  round  it.  Here  there  is  a 
most  remarkable  echo ;  a  soft  whisper 
at  one  point  of  the  gallery  can  be  heard 
most  distinctly  at  the  opposite  point, 
and  as  Cousens  says  "one  pair  of  feet  is 
enough  to  awaken  the  echoes  of  the  tread 
of  a  regiment. "  The  great  hall,  136  ft. 
square,  over  which  the  dome  is  raised, 
is  the  largest  domed  space  in  the  world. 
The  internal  area  of  the  tomb  is  18,225 
sq.  ft.,  while  that  of  the  Pantheon  at 
Rome  \a  only  1 5, 883.  ' '  At  the  height 
of  57  ft.  from  the  floor-line,"  says  Mr. 
?ergusson,  "  the  hall  begins  to  contract 
by  a  series  of  pendentives  as  ingenious 
as  they  are  beautiful,  to  a  circular  open- 
ing 97  ft  in  diameter.  On  the  platform 
of  the  pendentives  the  dome  is  erected, 
124  ft  in  diameter.  Internally,  the 
dome  is  175  ft.  high ;  externally,  198 
ft  ;  its  general  thickness  beinff  about 
10  ft."  *    From  the  gallery  outside  there 

&  *'  The  most  ingenious  and.  novel  part  of 
the  oonstruction  Is  the  mode  in  which  its 
lateral  and  outward  thrust  is  counteracted. 
This  was  accounliahed  by  forming?  the  pen- 
dentives so  that  they  not  only  cut  off  the 
aaglAs,  tnU  that,  as  shown  in  the  plan,  their 


is  a  fine  view  oyer  Bnapur.  On  ths 
K  is  'Alipur ;  on  the  W .  are  seen  the 
Ibrahim  ttoza,  the  Upari  Buij,  and  ths 
Shaerza,  or  Lion  Bastion,  the  unfinished 
tomb  of  'Ali  'Adil  Shah  II.,  the  Aaat 
Mahal,  and  about  1  m.  in  the  same 
direction  the  ruins  of  the  villages  of  the 
masons  and  painters  employed  on  ^e 
Gol  Gumbaz ;  and  on  the  S.  W.  is  the 
dome  of  the  Jumma  Muqid.  There  ii 
a  small  annexe  to  the  mausoleum  (m 
the  K.  without  a  roof;  built  by  Sultan 
Muhammad  as  a  tomb,  it  is  supposed,  £k 
his  mother,  Zuhra  Sahibah,  m>mwh<HB 
one  of  the  suburbs  was  called  Zuhrapur. 
It  was  never  finished  or  occupied. 

Below  the  dome  is  the  cenotaph  of 
Sultan  Muhammad  in  the  centre.  On 
the  E.  side  are  the  graves  of  his  youngest 
wife  and  of  the  son  of  'Ali  'Adil  Skth 
II. ;  on  the  W.  are  those  of  his  favour- 
ite dandng-glrl  Khamba,  his  daughter, 
and  his  eldest  wife,  mentioned  by  Ber* 
nier.  On  the  edge  of  the  platform  W. 
is  the  mosque  attached  to  the  mauso- 
leum, a  building  of  no  mean  size  and  df 
considerable  beauty  of  design,  but  quite 
eclipsed  by  the  size  of  the  Gol  Gunibaz. 
It  is  now  disfigured  by  being  converted 
into  the  Traveller's  Bungalow. 

The  Jumma  Mtuijid  (9),  nearly  i  m. 


Section  of  Domes,  Jumma  Knsjid. 

S.  W.  of  the  Gol  Gumbaz,  is  entered  by 
a  gateway  on  the  N.  side.    The  snr- 

arches  intersect  one  another  and  Ibim  a 
very  considerable  mass  of  masonry  perfectly 
stable  in  itself,  and  by  its  weight  acting  up- 
wards,  counteracting  any  thrust  that  can  p<i^ 
siblvbe  brouffht  to  bear  upon  it  by  the  presuui 
of  the  dome.*'->FtfruMoii. 


BOtrrx  S3,    buapub 


307 


xoandmg  wsU  was  never  ooxnpleted  on 
the  £.  The  arcades  on  the  IT.  and  S. 
sides  are  31  ft  broad.  In  the  centre 
of  the  quadrangle  is  the  hanz  or  tank 
for  ablutions,  now  dry.  Mr.  Fergusson 
says,  '^Even  as  it  is,  it  is  one  of  the 
finest  mosques  in  India." 

It  was  commenced  by  'All  'Adil  Shah 
I.  (1557-79),  and  though  continued  by 
his  successors,  was  never  completely 
finished.  If  it  had  been  completed,  it 
would  have  covered  firom  60,000  to 
55,000  sq.  ft.,  and  would  have  been 
the  size  of  a  mediseval  cathedral. 
The  mosque  proper  has  a  ia/^ade  of  9 
bays,  and  is  5  bays  in  depth.  Each  of 
the  squares  into  which  it  is  divided  has 
a  domed  roof,  beautiful,  but  so  flat 
as  to  be  concealed  externally.  The 
centre,  a  space  70  ft.  square,  corre- 
sponding to  12  of  these  squares,  is 
roofed  over  by  the  great  dome,  whidi  is 
57  ft  in  diameter.  It  is  supported  on 
pendentives  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Qd  Gumbaz.  The  pavement  below 
the  dome  is  of  chunam,  divided  by 
black  lines  into  numerous  squares  called 
mtuaUahs,  or  compartments  for  persons 
to  pray  on,  imitating  the  m/usallahf  or 
prayer-carpet,  which  the  faithful  carry 
with  them  to  the  mosques.  These 
were  made  by  order  of  Aurangzib  when 
he  carried  away  the  velvet  carpets,  the 
large  golden  chain,  and  other  valuables 
belonging  to  the  mosque.  Mr.  Molecey , 
at  one  time  the  architect  in  charge  of 
the  buildings  here,  states  that  the  sAiAr, 
or  ornament  at  the  top  of  the  mosque, 
was  filled  with  a  sort  of  grain  called 
rura  to  give  it  weight. 

The  iDohrab,  which  marks  the  place 
on  the  W.  to  which  the  people  turn 
in.  prayer,  is  gilt  and  ornamented 
with  much  Arabic  writing,  but  there 
is  also  a  Persian  quatrain,  which  may 
thus  be  translated — 
Best  not  in  the  Falace  of  Life,  for  it  is  not 

secure, 
None  can  rest  in  a  building,  which  is  not 

meant  to  endnre, 
Fair  in  my  sight  seems  the  World's  halting- 
place, 
A  sweet  treasure  is  Life,  but  'tis  gone  without 

leavisff  a  trace. 
This  Arch  was  built  in  the  time  of  the  reign 

of  Sultan  Muhammad  Shah. 

Ih«  date   of  the    ornamentation   is 


The  Mebtar  Mahal  (10)  is  the  name 
given  to  the  entrance  |»teway  to  the 
Mehtar  Mosque,  a  building  of  minor 
importance.  It  stands  between  the 
Jumma  Musjid  and  the  citadel,  on  the 
S.  of  the  road.  It  is  a  small  but  elegant 
structure,  three  stories  high,  with  minar- 
ets at  the  comers  and  ornamental  carv- 
ing in  soft  stone  about  its  balconied 
and  prelecting  windows.  It  may  be 
observed,  in  explanation  of  its  name, 
that  when  the  Hindustani  lanffuage 
arose  in  the  Urdu,  or  camp,  of  the 
Mogul  emperors,  the  Persian  soldiers 
gave  nu^ames  to  various  persons, 
which  took  their  place  in  the  language : 
thus,  a  tailor  was  called  Khalifa, 
"Caliph";  a  waterman  was  called 
Bibishti,  '*  an  inhabitant  of  Paradise  "  ; 
and  a  sweeper,  the  lowest  of  the  low, 
was  called  Mihtar,  "a  prince."  The 
story  is  that  Ibrahim  Shah  had  a  disease 
which  his  physicians  could  not  cure, 
and  the  astrologers  told  him  that  his 
only  chance  was  to  give  a  large  sum  to 
the  first  person  he  saw  next  morning. 
The  king  looked  out  of  the  window 
very  early  and  saw  a  sweeper,  on  whom 
he  bestowed  a  vast  sum,  and  the  poor 
fellow,  not  knowing  what  to  do  with 
it,  built  this  mosque.  Mr.  Fergusson 
says  of  this  structure:  "Perhaps  the 
most  remarkable  civil  edifice  is  a  little 
gateway,  .known  as  the  Methuri  MahaL 
It  is  in  a  mixed  Hindu  and  Moham- 
medan style,  every  part  and  every 
detail  covered  with  ornament,  but 
always  equaUy  appropriate  and  elegant. 
Of  its  class  it  is  perhaps  the  best 
example  in  the  country,  though  this 
class  may  not  be  the  highest." 

The  palace  of  the  Asar-i-Sharif  (11), 
"illustrious  relics,"  which  are  hairs  of 
the  Prophet's  beard,  is  a  large  heavy- 
looking  building  of  brick  and  lime,  and 
just  outside  the  moat  of  the  inner 
citadel  and  the  centre  of  its  E.  ram- 
part The  K  side  is  entirely  open 
from  the  ground  to  the  ceiling,  wmch 
is  supported  W  4  massive  teak  pillars 
60  ft.  nigh.  This  forms  a  deep  portico 
36  ft  broad,  and  looks  upon  a  tank 
250  ft.  sq.  The  ceiling  of  the  verandah 
or  portico  is  panelled  m  wood  and  has 
been  veiy  handBomoly  painted.    Th% 


308 


BOUTl  23.      HOTGI  TO  DHARWAB 


India 


whole  of  the  W.  side  is  occnpied  by 
rooms  in  two  stories.  On  the  right  of 
the  staircase  ascending  to  the  upper 
rooms  is  a  suite  of  api^tments,  in  the 
first  of  which  are  oases  for  books.  They 
contained  MSS.  of  some  value,  which 
were  sent  by  Sir  B.  Frere  to  Bombay. 
He  also  preserved  the  portico  by  build- 
ing a  solid  square  prop  and  ot^er  sup- 
ports. The  peater  portion  of  the 
MSS.,  it  is  said,  were  previously  re- 
moved by  Aurangzib.  Kemark  here  a 
very  fine  piece  of  ruddy  marble  with 
shells  embedded  in  it,  which  is  in  one 
of  the  arches  of  the  portico.  The  flight 
of  stairs  ascends  to  a  hall  81  ft.  long 
and  27  ft.  broad,  where  a  few  of  the 
fine  carpets  which  the  palace  onoe  con- 
tained are  shown.  Opening  rt  from 
•  this  hall  is  an  upper  verand^  or  ante- 
chamber which  looks  down  into  the 
portico  (already  described)  below.  Its 
ceilings  and  walls  have  been  gilt ;  the 
doors  are  inlaid  with  ivoiy ;  and  in 
the  palmy  days  of  B\japur  the  effect 
must  have  been  very  strudng.  In  the 
N.  wall  is  the  entrance  to  the  room  in 
which  the  sacred  hair  is  kept,  and  this 
is  opened  only  once  a  year.  Two  rooms 
to  the  S.  are  beautimlly  painted  with 
vases  of  flowers.  All  these  rooms  were 
defaced  and  spoiled  by  the  Marathas. 
The  Raja  himself  is  said  to  have  set 
the  example  in  scraping  off  the  gilding, 
and  his  followers  imitated  him  only  too 
well.  They  picked  out  the  ivory  that 
inlaid  the  doors,  and  otherwise  so  in- 
jured the  rooms  as  to  reduce  this  once 
splendid  palace  to  the  state  of  an 
unsightly  bam.  It  is  also  stated  that 
Aurangzib  was  so  incensed  at  seeing 
paintings  of  figures  on  the  walls  of  a 
building  devoted  to  a  sacred  purpose, 
that  he  directed  the  faces  to  be  obliter- 
ated. The  Asar  - 1  -  Sharif  formerly 
communicated  on  its  W.  side  with  the 
citadel  by  means  of  a  bridge,  of  which 
nothing  now  remains  but  the  piers. 
Originally  built  as  a  court  of  justice  by 
Muhammad  Shah  about  1646,  it  suc- 
ceeded to  the  honour  of  holding  the 
precious  relics  of  the  Prophet  after  a 
similar  building  within  the  citadel 
had  been  burned  down. 

The  ArkiUft  or  OttadeL— The  only 


citadel  gateway  that  remains  is  at  the 
extreme  S.,  facing  E.;  here  thewalhi 
are  thick  with  ancient  pillars  and 
sculptured  stones,  taken  from  Jaiq 
temples  which  probably  stood  on  thii 
spot  when  the  Mohammedans  stormed 
the  citadd.  The  temples  were  demol- 
ished by  them  and  many  of  the  stones 
were  used  in  rebuilding  the  walls; 
the  rest  were  utilised  in  the  construe 
tion  of  the  2  *  *old  mosques"  within  the 
citadel. 

The  Old  Mosque  (12),  a  Jain  temple 
converted  into  a  m<»que,  is  within  the 
citadel  K  W.  of  the  gate.  The  centnt 
mandapam,  or  hall,  two  stories  high,; 
serves  as  the  porch.  The  inner  door* 
way,  with  its  perforated  screens,  itf 
Mohammedan  work.  The  moeqiM 
proper  is  made  up  of  Hindu  or  Jain 
pillars  of  various  nattems  and  heights. 
At  the  N.  side,  about  the  centre  row, 
notice  a  wonderfolly  handsome  anoi 
elaborately  carved  black  pUlar,  and  to 
the  N.K  of  it  an  ancient  Kanarese  in- 
scription. On  several  of  the  pQlazs 
around  are  inscriptions,  some  in  San- 
scrit and  some  in  Kanarese.  One  bears 
the  date  1320. 


The  Anand  Mahal  (13),  or  ''palaoe 
of  joy,"  where  the  ladies  of  the  serafho 
livea,  is  in  the  centre  of  the  citadeL 
It  was  built  by  Ibrahim  II.  in  1589, 
and  intended  partly  for  his  own  nse, 
but  Ihe  fii^ade  was  never  finished.  It 
contains  a  very  fine  hall,  and  is  now 
the  Assistant-Collector's  residenoe. 

The Gagaa Mahal  (14),  or  ''heavenly 
palace,"  supposed  to  have  been  built 
by  'All  'Adil  Shah  I.,  is  on  the  W.  of 
the  citadel  dose  to  the  moat,  and  fiuses 
N.  It  has  three  magnificent  arches. 
The  span  of  the  cenliul  one  is  61  ft, 
and  that  of  each  of  the  side  arches  18 
ft.  The  height  of  all  three  is  the  same, 
about  50  ft  It  was  used  as  a  Durbar 
Hall,  and  on  the  roof  was  a  galleiy 
from  which  the  ladies  could  see  what 
occurred  on  the  open  space  in  front 
It  is  said  that  here  Auranf;zib  received 
the  submission  of  the  king  and  Ihe  , 
nobles  on  the  fall  of  B\japur.  | 

A  small  building  to  the  S.S.  of  th«    | 
Gagan  Mahal  has  been  oonverted  iato    ; 


BOUTE  23.       BIJAFUB 


309 


the  Station  Church  (15).  In  plan  it  is 
a  square ;  the  roof  is  supported  by  4 
pillars,  and  it  is  decorated  with  ex- 
quisite relief  patterns  in  flat  plaster- 
work.  The  beautifully  wrought  iron 
screen  was  found  in  the  Chini  MahaL 

About  150  yds.  to  the  N.£.  of  the 
Gajzan  Mahal  is  another  old  mosque  (16) 
built  with  the  stones  of  a  Jain  temple. 
It  has  ten  rows  of  pillars  seven  deep. 

On  the  extreme  W^  of  the  citadel  is 
the  Sat  Kanjli  (17),  or  "  seven  stories," 
a  pleasure-palace  or  perhaps  a  watch- 
tower,  firom  the  top  of  whicli  the  whole 
city  could  be  overlooked.  These  strange 
many-storied  buildings  are  not  un- 
common in  India, — e,g,  there  is  a  very 
perfect  one  at  Fatehpur-Sikri.  Of 
this  only  5  stories  now  remain.  One 
peculianty  is  the  number  of  water- 
pipes  and  cisterns  round  about  it.  It 
formed  the  N.E.  comer  of  a  vast  build- 
ing wrongly  called  the  Granary  (18), 
which  was  probably  the  public  palace 
of  the  kings,  where  their  pubhc  and 
private  auoiences  were  held. 

At  the  S.  end  of  this  building  is  a 
palace  which  at  one  time  must  have 
been  of  considerable  importance.  It  is 
called  the  Chini  Mahal  (19),  from  the 
quantity  of  broken  china  found  there, 
and  possesses  a  fine  hall  128  ft.  long. 

In  front  of  the  Granary,  in  the  centre 
of  the  road,  stands  a  beautifully  orna- 
mented Uttle  pavOion  (20),  the  purpose 
of  which  is  imknown.  From  this  the 
moat  of  the  citadel  is  crossed  by  a 
causeway  140  ft.  long,  but  the  average 
breadth  of  the  moat  may  be  taken  as 
150  ft. 

Within  the  citadel  and  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  gateway  is  the  Nakka  Musjid 
(21),  a  miniature  mosque  of  beautiful 
proportions  and  great  simplicity  of 
design.  The  massive  minarets  at  the 
comers  of  the  high  walls  which  surround 
it  in  all  probability  belonged  to  an 
earlier  building.  The  facade  of  the 
mosque  proper  has  5  bays  of  arches 
about  8  n.  high,  is  2  bays  deep,  and  is 
surmounted  by  a  dome. 

Immediately  to  th0  W.  is  a  hu^ 


waUed  space  which  is  thought  to  have 
been  an  elephant  stable  (21a),  and 
adjoining  it  S.  is  a  tower  which  was 
probably  used  for  the  storage  of  grain. 

The  uniimshed  Tomb  of  'All  'Adil 
Shah  XL  (22)  is  to  the  N.  of  the  citadeL 
It  is  a  noble  ruin,  a  square  with  seven 
large  Gk>thic- looking  arches  on  each 
side,  oonstmoted  on  a  terrace  15  ft. 
high,  and  215  ft.  sq.  Had  not  the 
death  of  the  Sultan  put  a  stop  to  its 
progress,  and  prevented  its  completion 
m  conformity  with  the  original  design, 
it  would  have  surpassed  every  other 
building  at  B^'apur,  both  in  ma^;nifi- 
cence  and  size.  The  cenotaph  is  in 
the  centre  enclosure,  which  is  78  ft. 
sq.,  and  if  completed  would  have  been 
crowned  by  a  dome. 

Close  to  this  tomb  on  the  S.W.  is 
Bukhara  Musjid,  now  the  Post  Office 

(23). 

To  the  W.  of  the  city,  and  near  the 
Makka  Gate,  are  2  domed  tombs  close 
together  and  very  much  alike,  known 
by  Europeans  as  ''The  Two  Sisters" 
(24).  The  octa^nal  one  (now  the  house 
of  the  Executive  Engineer)  contains 
the  remains  of  Khcm  Mvhammadj 
assassinated  at  the  instigation  of  Sultan 
Muhammad  for  his  treacmerous  dealings 
with  Aurangzib,  and  of  his  son  Khawas 
Khan,  Yazir  to  Sikandar.  The  dome 
is  nearly  complete,  and  springs  from  a 
band  of  lozenge-shaped  leaves.  The 
space  within  forms  a  beautiful  room. 
The  square  building  is  the  mausoleum 
of  Abdul  EassaJCf  the  religious  tutor  of 
Ehawas  Khan.  It  is  a  large  building, 
now  much  decayed.  Near  it  S.  is  the 
Tomb,  with  its  unfinished  brick  dome, 
of  Kishwar  Khan^  whose  father,  Asad 
Khan,  is  repeatedly  mentioned  by  the 
Portuguese.  He  rounded  the  fort  of 
Dharar,  in  the  time  of  'AH  'Adil  Shah 
I.,  and  was  taken  and  put  to  death  by 
one  of  the  Nizam  Shahi  kings. 

The  Andu  Musjid  (25),  1608,  stands 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  road  which  runs 
S.  from  the  citadel.  It  is  a  2-storied 
building,  the  lower  part  forming  a  hall 
and  the  upper  part  the  mosque  proper 
and  its  small  court  The  fa9ade  has  3 
bays,  it  is  surmounted  b^  a  fluted  dome 


310 


ROUTE  23.       HOTQI  TO  DHARWAR 


Jiui&i 


uid  4  small  minarets,  and  the  maaoniy 
and  workmanship  are  finer  than  that 
of  any  other  building  in  Bijapnr. 

Khawas  Khan*8  Mahcd  is  700  ft.  N. 
of  the  Jomma  Mnsjid.  Yakut  DakfuXUs 
Tomdand  Moeque  are  N.K  of  the  citadel 
The  tomb  is  square  with  stone  lattioe- 
work  screens.  It  was  Taknt  Dabuli 
who  decorated  the  mihrab  of  the  Jummft 
Mnsjid.  NawabMiuU^aJSlian*BM<»que, 
500  yds.  K  of  the  citadel,  is  a  lofty 
bmlding  with  a  facade  of  8  arches  and 
a  oentral  dome  supported  on  penden- 
tires.  Behind  the  mosque  W.  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Khan's  Palace.  Musta& 
Khan  Ardistani  was  a  distinguished 
nobleman  at  the  court  of  'Ah  'AdH 
Shah  I.,  anVi  was  murdered  in  1581  a.i>. 
by  Eishwar  Ehan,  who  usn]^)ed  the 
regency  in  the  time  of  Ibrahmi  'Adil 
Shah  11. 

Outside  the  W.  waU  of  the  dty  is 
The  Ibrahim  Boia  (pronounced 
rauaa)  (26),  a  group  of  builoiuffs  whidb 
includes  the  tombis  of  Ibrahmi  (II.) 
'Adil  ShAh,  his  Queen  Taj  Sultana,  and 
4  other  members  of  his  fiunily.  Dr. 
Bird  says  truly,  ''this  tomb  is  de- 
cidedly the  most  chaste  in  design  and 
cia8si(»l  in  execution  of  all  the  works 
which  the  B^japur  sovereigns  have  left 
behind  them."  The  Ibrahim  Boza  is 
400  yds.  W.  of  the  Makka  Gate.  This 
magnificent  building  is  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  a  Persian  architect. 
It  is  enclosed  by  a  strong  wall  with  a 
lofty  gateway.  The  courtyard  within 
was  once  a  nrden  ;  iu  the  centre  of  it 
Ib  raised  an  dblong  platform  upon  which 
stands  the  tomb,  and  to  the  W.  of  it  a 
mosque,  with  a  fountain  and  reservoir 
between  them.  The  5  arches  which 
form  the  E.  fa^e  of  the  Moaaue  are 
very  graceful ;  above  them,  under  tiie 
rich  cornice,  hang  heavv  chains  cut  out 
of  stone.  On  each  of  the  four  sides  of 
^he  Torrib  is  a  colonnade  of  7  arches, 
forming  a  verandah  15  ft.  broad  round 
the  whole  edifice.  The  pavement  of  this 
colonnade  is  slightly  elevated,  and  its 
ceiling  is  exquisitely  carved  with  verses 
of  the  Koran,  enclosed  in  compartments 
and  interspersed  with  wreaths  of  flowers. 
The  letters  were  originally  gilt,  and  the 
ground  is  still  a  most  brilliant  azure. 


In  some  places  the  gilding  also  stall 
remains.  The  border  of  evety  oom- 
partment  is  different  from  that  of  thi 
one  ac^oining.  The  windows  an 
formed  of  lattice-work  of  Arabic  sen- 
tences, cut  out  of  stone  slabs,  the  spaoe 
between  each  letter  admittixig  tfai 
light.  This  work  is  so  admirably  exe- 
cuted, that  Colonel  Sykes  declares  then 
is  nothing  to  surpass  it  in  Indib 
Above  the  double  arcade  ontedde  the 
building  is  a  magnificent  oomioe  witii 
a  minaret  four  stories  liigh  at  each 
comer  and  eight  smaller  ones  between 
them.  From  an  inner  cornice,  witii 
four  minarets  on  each  side,  riaee  the 
dome.  The  plan  of  the  building  n- 
sembles  that  of  the  tombs  at  Gk>lkonda 
The  principal  apartment  in  the  toml 
is  40  ft.  sq^.,  with  a  stone-slab  roof  per- 
fectly flat  m  the  centre,  and  supported 
only  bv  a  cove  projecting  10  ft.  frcnn 
the  walls  on  every  side.  *  *  How  the  roof 
is  supported  is  a  mvstery  whioh  can 
oulj  be  understood  bv  those  who  an 
familiar  with  the  use  the  Indians  make  I 
of  masses  of  concrete,  which,  with  good 
mortar,  seems  capable  of  infinite  ap- 
plications unknown  in  Europe.  Above 
this  apartment  is  another  in  the  dome 
as  ornamental  as  the  one  below  it, 
though  its  onl^  object  is  to  obtain  ez- 
tenuuly  the  height  required  for  archi- 
tectural effect,  and  access  to  its  interior 
can  only  be  obtained  by  a  dark,  narrow 
staircase  in  the  thickness  of  the  walL"  ^ 
Over  the  N.  door  is  an  inscription  in 
Persian,  extolling  the  building  in  veiy 
exaggerated  terms.  The  last  line  is  a 
chronogram,  which  gives  the  date 
1036  A.H.  =  1626  A.D.  Over  the  S.  door 
is  another  inscription  in  praise  of  the 
monarch,  with  the  date  1633.  Over 
the  same  door  is  inscribed — 

[TranslaHorL'\ 
The  work  of  beantifVing  this  MaQBoleam  wii 
completed  Ij  Malik  SandaL* 


1  From  Fergusson'a  HisL  of  Indian  AnA, 
The  anthor  also  says  "that  Ibrehlm,  warned 
by  the  fate  of  his  predecessor's  tomb,  com- 
menced his  own  on  so  small  a  plan,  lltf  ft 
sq.,  that  it  was  only  by  ornament  uiat  he  eonld 
render  It  worthy  of  himself."  Refer  to  Fte- 
gnsson  also  for  further  information  ooneerniaff 
this  exquisite  building. 

«  The  tomb  of  this  personage  is  at  Tikoti, 
Jm.  W.  of  the  ICakkaOate. 


ftOUTS  2^3.       BIJAFUB 


311 


Ilitf-i«Sti1tBn  iasncd  order*  for  the  oDAstniotion 

ctthia  Boza, 
At  the  beauty  of  which  Paradise  stood  amazed. 
He  exxMnded  over  it  1^  lakhs  of  huns, 
And  900  more. 

The  hun  being  3^  rs.,  the  total  expense 
was  aboat  £70,000.  When  Aurangzib 
besieged  B^anur  in  1686  he  took  np  his 
quarters  in  uie  Ibrahim  Roza,  which 
received  some  damage  from  the  B\japur 
gons.  These  injuries  were  paitially 
repaired  by  the  Kajah  of  Satara,  but 
the  restoration  was  completed  by  the 
Snglisb. 

Guns  and  Bastions. — The  Buxj-i- 
Shexza,  or  ''Lion  Bastion"  (27),  so 
called  from  being  ornamented  by  two 
lions*  beads  in  stone,  is  500  yds.  S.  of 
the  Sbahpor  Gate.  On  tiie  right-hand 
side  on  ascending  the  steps  of  the  bas- 
tion is  an  inscnption  stating  that  it 
was  built  in  ^Ye  months,  and  giving 
tbe  date  1671.  On  the  top  of  this 
bastion  is  a  huge  gun,  called  the  Malik- 
i-Maidan,  ''Lord  of  the  Plain."  On 
either  side  of  the  muzzle  the  represent- 
ation of  the  mouth  of  a  monster 
swallowing  an  elephant  is  wrought  in 
relief.  It  was  cast  at  Ahmednagar  in 
a  blue  metal  which  takes  a  very  high 
polish.  It  is  14  ft.  long,  the  circum- 
ference is  about  13  ft  6  in.,  and  the 
diameter  of  the  bore  is  2  fL  4  in.  Just 
above  the  touch-hole  is  the  following 
inscription : — 

The  work  of  MuhamnuUi  Bin  Hnsain  Bmni. 

At  the  muzzle  is  the  following : — 

The  servant  of  the  family  of  the  Prophet  of 
God,  Abnl  Ghazi  Nizam  Shah,  956  ▲.h.b 

1551  A.D. 

At  the  muzzle  is  also— 
-  In  the  80th  year  of  the  exalted  reign, 

1097  JuH..  Shah  'Alamgir,  conqueror  of  Infi- 
dels, Kin^  Defender  of  the  Faith, 

Ck>nqnei«d  B^japnr,  and  for  the  date  of  his 
triumph, 

He  ftilfllled  what  Justice  required,  and  an- 
nexed the  territonr  of  the  Shahs, 

Success  showed  Itself;  and  he  took  the  Malik- 
i-Maidan. 

About  150  yds.  £.  of  the  Sherza  Buij 
is  a  strange  building,  called  the  Upri 
Buij,  or  Upper  Bastion,  also  called  the 
Baidar  Bwrj  (28),  after  a  ^neral  of 
'Ali  I.  and  Ibrahim  II.  It  is  a  tower 
61  ft.  high,  oval  in  plan,  with  an  out- 
side staircase.    On  the  way  up  will  be 


noticed  a  Persian  inscription  recording 
the  building  of  the  tower  in  1588. 

On  the  top  are  two  guns  made  of 
longitudinal  oars  held  together  with 
iron  bands.  The  larger,  called  the 
Lamcharri,  "far  flier, *^ is  80  ft.  8  in. 
long,  and  has  a  diameter  of  2  ft.  5  in. 
at  the  muzzle,  and  8  ft  at  the  breech  ; 
the  bore  is  12  in.  in  diameter.  The 
other  gun  is  19  ft.  10  in.  long,  with  1 
ft.  diameter  at  the  muzzle,  and  1  ft.  6 
in.  diameter  at  breech.  In  addition  to 
these  there  are  seyeral  other  large  guns 
lying  about  Bijapur. 

There  are  several  Tanks  in  Bijapur. 
The  principal  one  is  the  Taj  Baoli,  or 
"Crown  Well"  (29).  It  is  100  yds. 
E.  of  the  Makka  Gate.  The  £.  wing 
of  the  facade  of  the  tank  is  partly 
mined  and  partly  used  as  a  Kanarese 
school.  Tlie  W.  wing  is  occupied  by 
the  municipal  offices.  Two  flights  of 
steps  lead  down  to  the  water  beneath 
an  arch  of  84  ft.  span,  and  about  the 
same  height,  flanked  by  2  tall  octagonal 
towers.  The  tank  at  the  water's  edge 
is  281  fb.  sq.  The  water  comes  partly 
from  springs  and  partly  from  drainage, 
and  is  80  It.  deep  in  we  diy  weather, 
l^ere  are  many  fish  in  it.  Colonel 
Sykes  states  that  it  was  built  by  Malik 
Sandal  in  Sultan  Muhammad's  reign  ; 
but  according  to  Dr.  Bird  it  was  the 
work  of  the  vazir  of  Sultan  Muham- 
mad. In  the  arcade  to  the  right  of 
the  weU  remark  the  curious  roof,  the 
rafters  of  which  are  of  stone. 

Watsr  Works.— -By  apurwas  supplied 
with  abundant  water  by  underground 
ducts.  One  source  of  supply  was  a 
spring  beyond  the  suburb  of  Torwah, 
5  jn.  W.  of  the  citadel ;  another  was 
the  Begam  Tank,  8  m.  to  the  S. 
Along  tne  line  of  the  supply  water 
occur  towers  supposed  to  be  for  the  pur- 
pose of  relieving  the  pressure  in  the 
pipes.  The  people  evidently  appreci- 
ated the  advantage  of  having  plenty 
of  cool  water  about  them,  and  traces  of 
innumerable  baths  and  cistems  are 
found  in  every  direction.  The  water 
from  the  reservoirs,  for  instance,  in  the 
ruined  palace  of  Mustafa  Khan,  ran  into 
a  tank,  from  which  it  brimmed  over 


SIS 


ROUTE  23.      HOTOI  TO  DHARWAB 


Ifdin 


into  narrow  stone  channels,  which 
passed  in  circuitous  courses  through  the 
gardens,  passing  over  uneven  surfaces  to 
give  it  a  suar^ng  and  rippling  effect 
liany  days  might  well  be  spent  in 
exploring  the  neighbourhood  and  visit- 
ing the  numerous  objects  of  minor 
interest  in  which  B^'apur  abounds,  but 
which  it  is  beyond  tne  scope  of  this 
book  even  to  mention. 

From  B^apur  the  line  continues  to 
132  m.  Badami  sU.  The  N.  fort  of 
Badami  is  to  the  N.£.  of  the  town, 
and  on  the  heights  above  are  some 
picturesque  temples.  To  the  S.  is 
anotiier  rocky  fort-crowned  hill,  in  the 
face  of  which  are  four  cave -temples. 
The  two  hills  (about  400  ft.  high) 
approach  so  close  to  each  other  as  to 
leave  only  a  eorge,  into  which  the  town 
extends.     Near  it  is  a  fine  tank. 

The  Forts  are  no  doubt  of  extreme 
antiquity,  and  in  some  shape  or  other 
probably  existed  as  long  back  as  the 
Christian  era.  Little  or  nothingisknown 
of  their  ancient  history.  In  1786 
Badami  was  in  the  possession  of  Tipu 
Sahib,  and  was  attacked  by  the  armies 
of  Nizam  'Ali  and  the  Feshwa  Mhadu 
Rao.  Their  operations  at  first  were  not 
successful,  "but  it  was  determined  to 
try  the  etfect  of  an  escalade.  On  the 
morning  of  the  20th  of  May  20,000 
infantry  of  the  confederate  armies  were 
drawn  up  for  that  service.  The  garri- 
son, consisting  of  upwards  of  3500  men, 
manned  the  works  to  oppose  them ; 
and  when  the  assailants  advanced, 
which  they  did  with  great  resolution, 
they  found  the  ditch  and  covered -way 
fiiU  of  mines,  which  were  fired,  and 
proved  exceedingly  destructive;  but 
the  Marathas  and  Moguls,  vying  with 
each  other,  rushed  forward  in  a  most 
impetuous  though  tumultuous  manner, 
applied  ladders,  mounted  the  walls  in 
various  places,  and,  except  a  slight 
check  sustained  at  the  citadel,  carried 
all  before  them  within  the  town. "  The 
garrison  fied  to  the  forts  above,  and 
rolled  down  huge  stones  upon  their 
assailants,  whose  '*  casualties  were 
numerous  ;  but  the  garrison,  becoming 
intimidated  at  their  furious  and  perse- 
vering attack,  offered  to  surrender  if 


their  lives  weire  spared,  a  conditun 
which  was  immediately  granted."  (See 
Grant  Dufl^  vol.  iii  p.  10.)  The  fort 
was  taken  by  the  British  under  Sir 
Thomas  Munro  in  1818. 

The  FoH  upon  the  N.  hill  in  iii 
lower  part  includes  much  of  the  town, 
and  this  part  is  defended  by  a  ditdi 
50  ft.  deep.  To  view  the  fort  ths 
traveller  should  start  very  early  in  tbi 
morning,  and  proceed  to  the  gate  of  fb« 
lower  fort,  which  faces  to  the  S.W.; 
and  soon  after  passing  it,  and  leaying 
on  the  left  a  Temph  of  JS[anlman^ 
ascend  120  ft  to  a  Temple  of  Mahadia. 
built  of  hard  sandstone,  whence  hem 
have  an  excellent  view  over  the  tovt 
and  hiUs.  Above  the  Temple  of  M&ha- 
deo  rises  a  scarped  rock  90  ft  hi||^ 
round  the  edse  of  which  mns  part  i 
the  wall  of  the  upper  fort,  which  ii 
now  quite  deserted,  only  one  iron  gnu, 
about  10  ft  long,  remaining.  Ijoen 
are  two  or  three  other  temples,  mostiy 
in  the  upper  fort,  which  have  s  very 
picturesque  appearance.  Desoendinr 
m>m  the  Temple  of  Mahadeo,  and 
passing  along  to  the  E.  portion  of  tiie 
town,  and  ouwe  to  the  S.  hill,  will  be 
seen  two  Mohammedan  tombs  and  a 
mosque  with  several  inscriptions  in  the 
Tughra  character  about  two  centuries 
old. 

The  S.  hill  is  also  crowned  with  a 
Forty  and  contains  in  its  W.  fuxfour 
Cave  Temples,  which  have  renaered 
Badami  celebrated,  though  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  scenery  might  well  haTB 
done  so  without  assistance  from  ait 

The  First  Cave  is  about  80  ft  from 
the  ground,  and  faces  W.  Mr.  Bmjew 
has  given  views  of  these  caves,  and  an 
excellent  account  of  them.  He  says : 
"They  stand  as  to  arrangement  of 
parts  between  the  Buddhist  viharas 
and  the  later  Brahmanioal  examplee 
at  Ellora,  Elephanta,  and  Salsette. 
The  front  waU  of  the  Buddhist  vihan, 
with  it6  small  windows  and  doors,  ad- 
mitted too  little  light ;  and  so  here, 
while  retaining  the  verandah  in  front, 
and  further  protecting  the  cave  hm 
rain  and  sun  by  projecting  eaves,  the 
front  of  the  Shala,  or  *  hall,'  was  made 
quite  open,  except  the  spaces  betweffl 
the  walls  and  the  first  pillars  fix>m  eadi 


ROUTE  23.      BAD  AMI 


313 


end.  In  the  sculptures,  at  least  of  the 
second  and  third  caves,  Vishnu  occupies 
the  most  prominent  place.  In  style 
they  Tary  much  in  details,  but  can 
scarcely  differ  much  in  age  ;  and  as  the 
third  contains  an  inscription  of  Man- 
galeshvara,  dated  Shaka  500  =  578 
A. p.,  we  cannot  be  far  wrong  in  attri- 
buting them  all  to  the  6th  cent  The 
importance  of  this  date  can  scarcely 
be  overestimated,  as  it  is  the  first  of 
the  kind  yet  discovered  in  a  Brahmani- 
cal  cave."  In  the  £&9ade  of  the  first 
c»ve  are  four  pillars  and  two  pilasters. 
The  two  pillars  to  the  S.  have  been 
broken  by  lightning,  and  are  now 
supported  by  wooden  blocks.  The 
piUars  are  slightly  carved  in  relief,  to 
about  half-way  from  the  top.  On  the 
left  of  the  cave  is  a  dwarpal,  with  a 
Nandi  over  him.  Opposite  mis  dwarpal 
is  a  figure  of  Shiva,  5  ft.  high,  with 
eighteen  arms.  There  is  a  head  of  a 
bull  and  Ganpati  and  musicians.  Be- 
yond the  fa9adeiBapassage,  or  verandah. 
On  the  left  is  Vishnu  or  Harihara,  with 
four  hands,  holding  the  usual  sjnnbols. 
On  the  right  is  T<akBhmi,  with  an 
attendant.  The  whole  rests  on  a 
stylobate,  along  the  firont  of  which  are 
Ganas  (dwarf  attendants  of  Shiva)  in 
all  sorts  of  attitudes.  On  a  platform 
to  the  right  is  Shiva  with  FarbatL  and 
Nandi.  On  the  back  wall  is  a  figure 
of  Maheshasuri  or  Durga  destroying 
the  buffalo -demon  Maheshasur.  She 
hasfourarms,  andholdsup  the  buffalo  by 
the  tail,  while  her  i^pear-nead  transfixes 
its  neck.  In  one  nand  she  holds  the 
discus,  or  Chakra,  in  another  the  spear, 
in  the  third  a  conch,  and  in  the  fourth 
the  buffalo's  tail.  On  the  right  wall  is 
Ganpati,  and  on  the  left  Skanda.  Be- 
yond the  passage  is  a  chamber,  with 
two  pillars  carved  from  the  capitals  to 
the  middle.  '  Inside  are  two  rows  of 
pillars.  The  ceiling  of  the  passage,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  chamber,  is  carved 
in  relief.  From  this  temple  flights  of 
steps  lead  up  to  the 

SecoTid  Cave  Temple,  From  the 
platform  thus  reached  is  a  fine  view, 
over  the  tank,  and  to  the  N.  fort  The 
fa^e  has  four  pillars  carved  from  the 
middle  upwards,  and  four  scalloped 
arches.     It  faces  N.     In  front  of  it  are 


three  pinnacles  of  perpendicular  rock. 
There  are  two  dwarpals  with  a  female 
attendant.  '  At  the  E.  end  of  the 
verandah,  to  the  left  of  the  spectator, 
is  the  Varaha,  or  Vishnu  in  ttie  form 
of  a  boar.  Below  are  Shesha,  the  1000- 
headed  snake,  depicted  with  a  human 
head,  and  a  female  figure.  A  group  of 
figures  is  succeeded  by  Vishnu,  dilated 
to  an  immense  size,  putting  one  foot 
on  the  earth  and  lifting  the  other  over 
the  heavens.  The  same  subject  is 
depicted  at  the  Seven  Pagodas,  and  at 
Elephanta.  On  the  ceiling  in  front  of 
this  is  Vishnu  with  four  arms,  riding 
on  Garuda.  On  the  top  of  the  wall, 
in  a  frieze,  are  the  figures  of  Vishnu 
and  Shesha.  In  the  central  square  of 
the  ceiling  is  a  lotus  with  sixteen  fishes 
roimd  it  The  corbels  supporting  the 
verandah  are  strange,  vampire -like 
figures.  The  frieze  of  the  cornice  all 
roimd  is  carved  with  groups  of  figures. 
The  entrance  to  the  inner  chamber 
from  the  verandah  is  like  that  of  the 
first  cave ;  the  roof  of  the  chamber  is 
supported  b^  eight  pillars;  and  the 
corbels  are  hons,  human  figures,  vam- 
pires, elephants,  etc.  The  adytum  has 
only  a  square  Cha/oaranga^  or  altar. 
On  the  architrave  in  the  middle 
compartment  are  several  groups,  such 
as  a  woman  on  a  couch  nursing  a  child. 
The  figures  that  support  the  cross- 
beams are  some  of  them  very  spirited. 

A  sloping  ascent  and  more  flights 
of  steps  lead  up  to  a  platform,  and  a 
few  steps  beyond  is  a  doorway  ;  on  the 
right  of  it  is  an  inscription  in  old  Ean- 
arese.  At  the  top  of  one  other  flight 
of  steps  is  the  platform  in  front  of  the 

Third  Came,  Above  the  facade  of  this 
cave  is  a  scarp  of  100  ft.  of  perpendicu- 
lar rock.  This  cave,  says  Mr.  Burgess, 
is  '*  by  far  the  finest  of  the  series,  and, 
in  some  respects,  one  of  the  most  inter- . 
estinff  Brahmanical  works  in  India." 
The  fa9ade  is  72  ft  firom  N.  to  S.,  and 
has  six  square  pillars  and  two  pilasters 
12^  ft.  high.  Eleven  steps  lead  up  to 
the  cave,  and  thus  a  stylobate  is  formed 
on  which  Ganas  are  represented  in 
relief.  The  brackets  of  the  pillars 
represent  male  and  female  figures, 
Arddhanarishvara,  Shiva,  and  Parbati, 
and  on  the  columns  themselves  are 


314 


ROUTE  S3.     Horei  to  dharwab 


h 


carred  elaborate  festoons,  and  below 
medallions  with  groups  of  figures. 
Traces  of  painting  are  visible  on  the 
under-side  of  the  eaves  and  the  roof  of 


Gave  at  Badami,  from  a  plan  by  Dr.  Butkcss. 

the  verandah.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
verandah  is  a  statae  of  Narsing,  the 
fourth  incarnation  of  Vishnu,  a  very 
spirited  figure,  11  ft.  high.  On  the  S. 
wall  is  ShlVl^  of  the  same  height  At 
the  £.  end  is  Karayan,  seated  under 
Sheshnag.  The  moulding  of  the 
features  is  very  cood  and  expressive  of 
repose.  On  the  left  of  this  figoie  is  the 
Yaraha  incarnation ;  to  the  right  an 
inscription  in  Eanarese.  The  chamber 
is  86  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  88  ft  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  16i  ft  high.  A  very 
deep  eave  projects  in  front  pf  the  ver- 
andah, witn  an  alto-relievo  carving  of 
Garuda.  On  the  rock  to  the  left  of  the 
cave  is  an  inscription.  K  of  this  cave 
is  a  wall  7  fL  high,  which  separates  the 
FovHhf  or  Jain  Cetve,  from  the  other 
three,  which  are  Brahmaniwd.  The 
platform  beyond  the  wall  ovwlooks 
the  lake  or  tank,  and  commands  a  fine 
view.  The  descent  is  very  steep  and 
covered  with  bushes.  A  broad  over- 
hanging eave  has  been  cut  out  of  the 
rock  in  front  of  this  cave,  with  Garuda 
as  its  central  ornament  inside.  The 
facade  has  four  carved  pillars  and  two 
pilasters,  with  scalloped  arches  between. 
On  the  left  of  the  verandah  is  a  Jain 
divinity,  with  bands  round  his  thighs, 
and  cobras  coming  out  below  his  feet 
On  the  ri^ht  of  the  verandah  ip  a 
Buddha»  with  the  Sheshnag  over  his 


head.  There  are  two  pilkn  in  fM 
and  two  richly  ornamented  piks 
Tliere  are  also  four  rows  of  figcffes, 
Buddha  in  the  centre.  Beyond  is 
Adytum,  a  recess  oontainmg  m 
image  of  Buddha.  From  the  vers 
a  flight  of  steps  leads  up  to  the  door 
the  fort. 

Visitors  in  descending  will  not  fi 
to  be  amused  with  the  monkeya,  w: 
come  out  on  the  scarped  fsice  of 
rock,  and  sometimes  endeavour 
push  one  another  down  the  predpk 
At  the  head  of  the  lake  a  large  mi 
of  the  rock  has  fallen,  and  forms  idM 
may  be  called  a 

Fifth  Cave.  The  entrance  is  hf 
hole,  through  which  one  must  c» 
Against  the  rock  at  the  back  are  a  U 
and  a  small  Jain  figure.  A  little  to 
N.W.  of  this  is  a  small  shrine  b 
against  the  rock,  on  which  are 
Vishnu  and  Shesha  surrounded 
deities.  To  the  N.W.  and  N. 
numerous  other  shrines.  N.£.  of  di 
dharmsala  is  an  old  temple  with  maaot 
square  pillars,  and  on  the  right  of  til 
door  \a  a  Eanarese  inscription.  Tha 
are  some  carvings  about  it  lid 
temple  is  quite  deserted,  and  is  infostai 
both  by  bats  and  panthers. 

The  traveller  wiU  do  well  to  tm 
the  village  of  Banshankar,  where  isi 
temple  to  Parbati,  the  wife  of  Shin 
It  is  about  2  m.  from  Badami,  or  half- 
way between  Badami  and  the  Malpar- 
ha  River,     On  the  approach  to  it  is  i 
small  stone   pavilion,    and  200  jda 
beyond  is  a  tank  864  ft  sq.  withi 
covered  colonnade.     On  the  W.  sids 
there  is  only  a  pavilion  with  fonr  row* 
of  pillars.      On  the  £.  side  is  a  ^ 
witn  stone  steps  going  down  to  thi; 
water.     The  tank  is  ftill  offish.    Thm\ 
are  also  manv  large   ijtionkeys,  wbo 
bound  along  the  roof  of  the  colonnade 
with  surprising  agility.     At  the  K.W. 
comer  of  the  colonnade  is  tiie  Batii, ' 
or  chariot  of  the  deity,  26  ft  high ;  tie 
larger  wheels  are  7   ft   in  diametar. 
Parbati's  temple  is  on  the  W.  ade. 
There  is  also  a  lofty  tower  for  lamp^ 
in  several  tiers.      Beyond  the  tempfe 
to  the  E.  is  a  fine  stream  of  clear  watff 
25  ft.  broad,  flowing  amongst  tall  tns 
and  shrubs. 


ROUTE  23.       BIGHTS  IN  THE  YIOnOTT  OF  BADAMI 


315 


tOBTS  IN  THE  YlOINITY  OF  BaSAHI. 

'3  m.  to  theE.  of  Badamiis  Mahaknt, 
here  is  a  fine  tank  faced  with  stone ; 
1  it  is  a  very  old  Lingam  with  five 
Mids,  three  of  which  are  Brahma, 
ishnn,  and  Mahadeo.  It  is  called  the 
mehmukha,  <'fiye-faced."  There  ia 
30  a  large  fidlen  column,  a  monolith, 
ith  three  long  inscriptions,  one  of 
lich  has  neyer  been  deciphered. 

At  Pattadakal,  5  m.  S.  W.  of  Badami, 
the  left  bank  of  the  Malparba  river, 
several  temples,  both  birahmanical 
id  Jain,  dating  from  the  7th  or  8th 
itury.  Th5y  "*r®  very  pure  ex- 
iples  of  the  Dravidian  style  of  archi- 
;  they  are  all  square  pyramids 
into  distinct  stories,  and  each 
►ry  ornamented  with  cells  alternately 
ilong  and  square.  Their  style  of 
^mentation  is  also  veir  much  coarser 
that  of  the  Chalukya  style,  and 
fers  very  much  in  character.  The 
ical  termination  of  the  spires  is 
dilfei-ent,  and  much  less  graceful. 


Temple  at  Pattadakal. 

and  the  overhanging  cornices  of  double 
curvature  are  much  more  prominent 
and  important"  (Burgess).  Besides 
these,  the  village  possesses  a  croup  of 
temples,  not  remarkable  for  their  size 
or  architectural  beauty,  but  interesting 
because  they  exhibit  the  two  principid 
styles  of  Indian  architecture,  in  absolute 
juxtaposition  (see  Arch,  qf  Dharwa/r 


and  Mysore,  pp.  68.  64).  The  Temple 
of  Fiapnath  is  of  tne  N.  style,  and  is 
probably  rather  older  than  that  of 
VirupaJeshOf  which  dates  from  the 
early  part  of  the  8th  centuir.  The 
Temple  of  Papnath  is  90  ft  long,  in- 
oludmg  the  porch,  and  40  ft  broad. 
There  are  sixteen  pillars  in  the  hall  and 
four  in  the  inner  chamber,  exclusive  of 
those  in  the  porches. 

At  AlwaUi,  6  m.  to  the  N.B.  of 
Badaml,  there  are  a  Jain  Cave  and  a 
Brahfruxnieal  Ctwej  both  described  by 
Mr.  Buigess.  The  latter  is  to  the  N.  W. 
of  the  village.  The  Dwrga  Temple 
has  some  very  remarkable  carving; 
and  here,  too,  are  many  dolmens. 

174  m.  Gadag  juncfsta.  (R.),  D.B. 
(From  this  point  the  traveller  has  a 
choice  of  railway  routes  taking  him  all 
over  Southern  uidia  and  to  the  western 
coast  near  Ooa  (Rte.  22).  Y^jayana- 
gar  (p.  853)  is  about  naif -way  be- 
tween Guntakal  juno.  £.  and  GacU^ 
June.  W.,  and  can  be  equally  weu 
visited  firom  either.) 

Chdagy  anciently  Eratuka,  is  a  town 
of  17,000  inhabitants,  with  the  usual 
offices  of  a  civil  station.  In  its  N.W. 
comer  is  a  Vish/navUe  Temple,  The 
entrance  is  xmder  a  high  gateway,  or 
gopnra,  with  four  stories,  and  60  ft. 
nigh.  The  door  is  handsomely  carved 
with  sixteen  rows  of  figures  in  relief 
on  either  side,  and  opens  into  a  paved 
enclosure,  in  which  is  the  temple,*  a 
quite  plain  Ikulding,  with  a  well. 
S.W.  of  this,  300  yds.  off,  is  a  temple 
to  Kari  Dev,  "  Black  God. "  The  doors 
are  handsomely  carved,  as  is  the  out- 
side of  the  adytum.  This  temple 
resembles  the  principal  temple  at  Lak- 
kundi  (described  below),  and  is  built 
of  the  same  bluish  stone.  At  80  yds. 
S.  of  this  is  another  small  Jain  temple. 

At  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  town  is 
the  Earwar  company's  cotton  factory. 

Close  to  this  is  the  (Government 
Telegraph  Office  and  the  Mumlutdar's 
Cutcnerry. 

In  the  S.  quarter  of  the  town  is  the 
principal  Temple  ;  the  only  one  worth 
cominff  from  a  long  distance  to  see.  It 
ii  demoated  to  Itimbakeshwar  or 


316 


BOUTS  23.       HOT0I  TO  DHABWAB 


Trikuteshwar,  ''the  Lord  of  the  three 
peaks. "  There  are  nine  inacriptions  at 
this  temple,  one  of  which  gives  the 
date  1062.  The  first  door  of  the  prin- 
cipal temple  is  36  ft  firom  the  N.  porch. 
An  ante-chamber  25  ft.  deep  leaos  into 
the  temple.  The  outside  is  one  mass 
of  most  elaborate  carving.  Two  rows 
of  fiffures  ran  along  the  entire  &ont 
and  Dack  ;  those  of  the  lower  row  are 
2  ft  9  in.  hi^h,  including  their  canopy, 
and  are  156  in  number.  In  the  upper 
row  are  104  figures,  13  in.  high,  52  in 
the  front,  and  the  same  in  tne  back  ; 
the  rest  of  the  wall  is  also  ornamented. 
Round  the  outside  of  the  K  ante- 
chamber are  niches  for  figures,  but  onl^ 
one  figure  remains  whole.  It  is  deli- 
cately carved  and  2  ft  2  in.  hi^h,  and 
represents  Narayan  ; — ^it  has  a  oeauti- 
folly-desifiined  canopy.  The  front  of 
the  temple  to  the  spectator's  ri^ht  is 
hidden  by  a  modem  addition,  which  is 
((uite  out  of  keeping  with  it  The  roof 
is  flat  Between  the  four  pillars  on  the 
£.  is  a  colossal  bulL  Observe  two 
circular  carved  ornamental  pillars  on 
the  right  of  the  doorway ;  tney  touch 
the  wall,  but  support  nothing.  The 
building  extends  towards  the  W.,  but 
from  the  plain  and  unadorned  style  of 
this  part,  both  outside  and  inside,  one 
is  led  to  think  that  this  is  no  part 
of  the  original  building.  None  but 
Hindus  are  allowed  to  enter  this  part  of 
the  temple.  The  conical  roof  appears 
above  the  flat  roof  of  the  passage,  and 
is  beautifully  carved  and  ornamented. 
Immediately  behind  the  main  portion 
of  the  first  temple,  in  the  right-hand 
part  of  the  enclosure,  is  a  Temple  to 
Sarasufoti.  The  porch  is  the  finest 
part  of  it ;  it  contains  eighteen  pillars, 
some  of  tiiem  exquisitely  carved,  and 
six  pilasters.  The  three  first  of  the 
two  centre  rows  of  pillars  deserve  par- 
ticular notice  for  their  elegance  of  design 
and  exquisite  carving.^    Beyond  this 

1  Col.  M.  Taylor  says :  "  It  is  Impossible  to 
descrilM  the  exquisite  finish  of  the  pillars  of 
the  interior  of  this  temple,  which  are  of  black 
hornblende,  nor  to  estimate  how  they  were 
completed  in  their  present  condition,  without 
they  were  turned  in  a  lathe ;  yet  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  they  were  set  up  origtiudly 
as  rouffh  masses  of  rock,  and  afterwards  carved 
into  their  present  forms.  The  carving  on 
some  of  the  pillars  and  of  the  lintels  md 


hUai 


porch  is  a  deep  recess,  with  the  imagi 
of  the  goddess  at  the  end.  Hie  waUs^l 
the  inner  recess  are  of  great  thickno^ 
and  sug^t  the  idea  that  other  recesMl 
at  the  sides  may  have  been  built  a|i 
These  waUs  are  also  finely  carved,  hi 
all  the  niches  are  empty.  Aiotrnd  ol 
chambers  for  priests,  and  lodgings  fti 
visitors  and  pilgrims.  There  are  om 
or  two  small  shnnes  in  the  open  oooit 
To  the  W.  is  another  entrance,  witiha 
porch  similar  to  that  on  the  N.  TheN 
18  also  in  the  enclosure  a  fine  we^ 
faoed  with  solid  stone,  and  witli  step 
leading  down  to  the  water.  There  aa 
numerous  inscriptions  at  this  plaoe^ 
one  of  which  has  the  date  Shaka7903 
868  A.D. 

Lakknndi  (anciently  Lokkikandi}  ii 
about  8  m.  S.E.  of  Gadag,  and  abodk 
half  that  distance  from  Harlapur  sti» 
tion.  The  place  is  full  of  andal 
temples.  Close  to  the  W.  entranced 
the  town  is  one  with  a  good  mandk 
A  few  yards  from  this  mandir  ii 
another,  in  the  door  of  which  is  s  hna 
bar  of  black  basalt  built  into  the  walk 
on  either  side.  This  bar  is  to  piereitt 
animals  from  entering,  and  is  very 
much  worn,  showing  the  great  an- 
tiquity of  the  building. 

At  Kashd  Vishwaiuith's  Temple  the 
fa9ade  has  been  supported  by  four 
pillars,  of  which  that  to  the  N.  hu 
gone.  The  doorways  are  elaboratdj 
carved.  The  roof  is  quite  ruined.  The 
carving  outside  is  very  elaborate,  and 
altogetiier  this  temple  is  by  far  the 
handsomest  in  Lal^undi,  and  well 
worth  seeing  ;  but  being  built  of  ooane 
granite,  the  carving  is  not  so  qlear  and 
sharply  defined  as,  for  instance,  in  the 
Abu  temples. 

To  the  W.,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  road,  is  a  Temple  to  Ncmdes^wjer, 
or  "Shiva,  lord  of  the  bull  Nandi" 
There  is  a  Eanarese  inscription  on  the 
ledge  of  the  W.  division  of  the  roof; 
between  the  four  pillars.     This  temple 

architraves  of  the  doors  is  qnite  beyond  de- 
scription. No  chased  work  in  silver  or  goM 
could  possibly  be  finer,  and  the  pattenij 
this  day  are  copied  by  goldsmiths,  who  ttft 
casts  and  moulds  ftom  them,  hut  ttS.  n 
representing  the  sharpness  and  flniih  of  tu 
original" 


BOUTB  S3.      HUBLI — DHARWAB 


317 


itands  on  the  N.  side  of  a  tank,  wliioh 
it  overlooks. 

At  200  yds.  to  Hie  S.  is  a  Temple  to 
Bcuawi,  which  is  large,  but  only  7  ft. 
higli.  It  is  a  plun  building,  bat 
prettily  situated  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
tank,  which  is  a  well-knownplace  for 
wild  ducks  and  snipe.  The  inner 
chamber  is  8  ft.  sq. 

Inside  the  town,  200  yds.  to  the  W., 
is  a  Temple  to  Mallikarjuruif  but  the 
people  at  Lakkundi  say  it  is  tlie  name 
of  a  mountain  at  Tirupati. 

100  yds.  farther  W.  is  a  Temple  to 
Ishvxira,  the  roof  of  which  has  fallen 
in.  It  is  very  old;  the  exterior  is 
handsomely  carved,  and  is  said  to  be 
the  work  of  Jakanaoharya,  the  great 
sculptor. 

A  narrow  path,  thickly  shaded  for 
about  100  yds.,  leads  to  a  Baoli,  or  well, 
— ^in  fact  a  small  tank,  the  sides  of 
which  are  faced  with  stone.  There  are 
flights  of  steps  to  the  water  on  three 
noes,  and  on  either  side  of  the  first  step 
is  an  elephant,  so  well  carved,  that  the 
natives  may  be  believed  when  they  say 
that  it  is  the  work  of  Jakanachaiya. 

About  200  yds.  from  this,  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  tower,  is  a  Temple  to  Mani- 
keshtoavy  a  name  of  Krishna,  so  called 
because  every  day  he  gave  to  Kadha  a 
ruby,  which  is  called  a  manik.  A  very 
pretly  small  tank  adjoins  the  temple. 
It  is  faced  with  stone,  and  has  several 
buttresses  projecting  into  the  water, 
said  to  be  carved  by  Jakanacharya. 
On  either  side  of  the  entrance  into  the 
temple  are  four  pillars  of  black  basalt. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  inner  chamber  ; 
the  roof  is  pyramidal.  Part  of  the 
outer  wall  is  falling.  This  temple  is 
suirotmded  by  beautiful  trees  of  great 
size. 

From  Gadag  the  line  turns  W.  to 
210  m.  Hubli  junc.  sta.  (R.)  (line 

S.E.  to  Harihar  (R.)  and  Bangalore, 

Rte.  27). 

222  m.  Dharwar  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
This  is  a  very  important  centre,  being 
the  headquarters  of  the  Southern 
Maratha  Rly.  Dharwar  is  a  large 
open  town  in  a  plain,  with  a  pop.  of 
87.000. 


On  the  N.  is  the  Fort,  which  is  strong, 
though  the  defences  are  of  mud  and 
irregular.  It  has  a  double  wall,  and 
an  outer  and  inner  ditch,  from  25  to  30 
ft.  wide  and  deep.  It  looks  very  deso- 
late and  wretched,  and  there  is  nothing 
remarkable  to  be  seen  either  there  or  in 
the  town.  The  Fort  was  taken  from 
the  Marathas  by  Haidar  'Ali  in  1778, 
and  stood  a  siege  in  1789  from  a  British 
force  co-operating  with  the  Maratha 
army  under  Parshuram  Bhao.  It  next 
belonged  to  Tipu ;  and  one  of  his  ablest 
generals,  Baoru-zaman,  with  7000 
regulars  and  3000  irregulars,  having 
tlm)wn  himself  into  it,  defended  it  with 
great  spirit.  After  a  protracted  siege 
of  29  weeks,  the  brave  Badru-zaman 
surrendered  on  condition  of  being 
allowed  to  march  out  with  all  the 
honours  of  war.  The  aUies  took  pos- 
session of  the  fort  on  4th  April,  and 
the  Marathas  attacked  Badru-zaman  as 
he  was  marching  away,  wounded  him, 
made  him  prisoner,  and  dispersed  the 
forces. 

The  Cemetery  at  Dharwar  is  a  little 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  fort.  Here  are 
buried  Capt  Black  and  Lieuts.  Sewell 
and  Dighton,  of  the  Madras  H.  Artil- 
lery, "who  lost  their  lives  in  gallantly 
attempting  to  queU  the  insurrection  at 
Kittur,  on  the  28d  of  October  1824." 
There  ia  a  tablet  to  the  nephew  of  Sir 
T.  Munro,  who  was  killed  on  the  same 
occasion. 

The  Church  at  Dharwar  is  about  1 
m.  to  the  S.  of  the  D.B.  It  belongs 
to  the  Basle  German  Evangelical  Mis- 
sion, and  was  bmlt  in  1844-45.  The 
tower  is  40  ft.  high.  The  service  by 
the  missionaries  is  in  Eanarese,  and 
once  on  Sunday  in  English.  The  can- 
tonments for  tne  native  infimtry,  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  fort,  are  quite  2  m.  oflF. 

About  li  m.  S.  of  Dharwar  is  a  hill 
called  the  Mailargar.  On  its  summit 
stands  a  small  square  stone  temple, 
built  after  the  Jain  fashion,  and  facing 
the  E.  The  columns  and  beams  are 
of  massive  stone,  and  the  roof  of  the 
same  material  is  handsomely  carved. 
On  one  of  the  columns  is  an  inscription 
in  Persian,  recording  that  the  temple 
was  converted  into  a  mosque  in  168C 
by  the  deputy  of  the  Kin^r  of  Bijapur 


318 


BOUTJB  24.      BOMBAY  TO  HADBA8 


Indk 


The  rains  of  the  Fori  of  Klttnr  are 

18  xn.  N.  W.  of  Dharwar  by  road.  The 
plaoe  has  been  too  much  destroyed  to 
be  of  much  interest 

The  line   continues  W.   to   Castle 
Rock  sta.  (Rte.  22). 


ROUTE  24 

Bombay  to  Masbas  by  the  Bob 
Ghat 

Rail  794  m.  Mail  train  aboat  forty  hoiin 
in  transit. 

For  the  journey  as  far  as  34  m. 
Kalyan  junc  sta.  see  Rte.  1 ;  from 
Ealyan  one  branch  of  the  railway  goes 
K.£.  up  the  Tal  Ghat  to  Allahabad 
and  Calcutta,  whilst  the  S.£.  branch 
ascends  the  Bor  Ghat  and  passes 
through  Poona  to  Madras.  Proceed- 
ing by  the  latter  we  reach  at 

38m.  Ambamath  sta.,  ''Immortal 
Lord,"  a  village  of  300  inhab.  It  gives 
its  name  to  the  district  in  which  the 
town  of  Kalyan  is  situated.  1  m.  E. 
is  the  temple  of  Ambamath  in  a  pretty 
valley.  Dr.  Wilson  regarded  the  temple 
as  decidedly  Shivite.  In  a  niche  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  adytum  is  a  Trimiirti, 
or  "  three-headed  Shiva.**  The  figure, 
from  its  multiplex  and  fictitious  heads 
and  skeleton  legs,  is  as  deformed  as  can 
be  imagined.  The  temple  is  an  object 
of  considerable  interest  as  a  specimen 
of  genuine  Hindu  architecture :  it  faces 
W.,  but  the  mamdapam,  or  hall,  in 
front  of  the  shrine  has  doors  also  to 
the  N.  and  S.  The  roofs  of  the  porti- 
coes between  the  lintels  are  covered 
by  carved  slabs  with  beautiful  designs, 
in  which  birds  and  the  heads  of  the  lion 
of  the  south  are  introduced.  The  door 
from  the  portico  into  the  temple  is 


richly  carved.  The  ro<tf  of  the  ball  m 
supported  by  four  elaborately- carved 
columns.  So  rich  and  varied  is  the 
sculpture  on  these  pillars  that  ne 
description  could  ^ve  an  adequate 
idea  of  it.  The  pediment  of  the  door- 
way leading  into  the  vimanah  is  oro^ 
mented  with  elephants  and  lions,  and 
in  the  centre  with  figures  of  Shivi 
The  interior  of  the  slmne  shows  hot 
carefully  the  long  stones  of  dark  basalt 
were  jomted  and  bedded,  mortar  Dot 
being  in  use  among  the  Hindus  untiL 
the  Mohammedan  conquest.  likeaO 
Hindu  temples  of  the  northern  styK 
the  outside  of  the  building  is  a  seiioi 
of  projecting  comers.  The  base  is  i 
series  of  projecting  and  receding  conise^ 
one  of  the  upper  ones  representing  i 
string  of  curious  homed  and  bat-m» 
faces ;  then  comes  a  band  vitk 
elephants*  heads  and  small  hnmaft 
figures ;  next  a  band  with  half-goit, 
half-bat-like  faces ;  then  a  deeper  couna 
with  innumerable  human  figures, 
curious  belt  of  beautiful  carving  i 
up  each  face  of  the  vimanah.  An 
inscription  inside  the  lintel  of  the  N. 
door  gives  the  date  of  the  building  of 
the  temple  as  =860  a.d. 

54  m.  Neral  sta.  (R. )  [Passengers  far 
Maiheran  leave  the  rail  at  this  pabt 
The  station-master  or  the  superin- 
tendent at  Matheran  should  be  written 
to  beforehand  to  have  a  pony  or  a 
tonga  with  bearers  ready  to  take  the 
traveller  up  the  hilL  The  ascent  (8  m.) 
is  by  a  very  good  bridle-path,  and  2) 
hrs.  must  lie  allowed  from  the  rly.  sta. 
to  the  hotels  at  the  top  of  the  hilL 
The  path  passes  througn  Neral  and 
begins  to  ascend  at  the  end  of  the  l£t 
m. ;.  during  the  2d  m.  it  ascends  550  ft 
amongst  rocks.  In  the  3d  m.  the  path 
climbs  the  boulder -strewn  hillside  to 
the  height  of  975  ft. ;  and  at  the  4th, 
rising  to  1525  fL,  enters  the  Neral  wooi 
At  the  end  of  the  5th  m.  the  height 
is  2138  ft.  The  6th  m.  brings  the 
traveller  to  the  plateau  on  the  top  of 
Matheran  Hill,  which  is  2283  ft  above 
the  sea-level.  The  7th  m.  reaches  2375 
ft;  and  the  8th  m.  descends  to  210S 
ft.  From  the  3d  m.  the  ascent  is  veij^ 
steep  indeed,  but  for  the  greater  put 


BOUTB  24        KARJAT 


319 


f  liixuriant  trees  clothe  the 
e    liill,  and  cloak  the  preci- 

L-station  of  Matheran  stands 

X  of  tlie  Sahyhadri  range,  and 

%able   airy  summer  resort  for 

3    of   Bombay.     There  are  a 

.    Stibscriptiim  Library,  and 

lOr    croqtcetf  badminUm,   and 

'  *».      The  summit  of  the  hill 

/)  station  is  situated  forms  a 

)^leland  running  N.  and  S., 

ihoots    in    many    directions, 

^  all  sides  by  precipices  some- 

\0  ft.  Mgh,  and  terminating 

^  in    bluffs    called    "Points." 

|ie  first  spots  to  visit  is  Alex- 

*-^Tit,  which  is  about  1 J  m.  from 

jjih  to  the  S.;  then  1  m.   to 

^/oint,   to  the  S.  of  the  main 

/^  Tbe  view  is  venr  beautiful, 

^ftg    tliose    from   Sydney    and 

^  >ne  Points  at  Mahabaleshwar. 

fht  of  the  traveller  as  he  looks 

Chauk  Point  will  be  seen 

^Hpad  to  Chauk,  by  which  Hugh 

pialet  ascended  when  he  dis- 

*UMatheran  in  1850.     There  is 

^It  of  primeval  forest  half-way 

'^^  mountain  through  which  the 

This  old  road  is  most 

nd  steep.   Chauk  is  a  stiflingly 

je  about  14  m.  N.  of  Panwell, 

?old  road  to  Poona*,  and  about 

^J3.W.  of  Chauk  Point.     About 

the  left  the  traveller  will  see 

■t  Point,   from  which   a  long 

ridge  runs  tapering  down  into 

r  country,  and  this  ridge  bounds 

V-iw  in  that  direction.      Another 

.  hould  be  to   Panorama  Foint, 

to  the  N.W.  of  the  bungalows. 

,nce  is  a  little   over   4  m. 

leads  through  a  thick  jungle 

itifal  trees,  and  about  i  m.  from 

Point  comes    to    a    point 

with  Porcupine  Point,  where 

dpice  descends  abruptly  1000  ft. 

■0  yds.  from  its  termination  the 

{pea  quite  round  the  brow  of  the 

and  here  there  is  a  truly  beautiful 

fcmic  view  of  the  country  from 

I  the  point  gets  its  name.     To  the 

Hart  Point  and  Porcupine  Point. 

ithedistanoeis  Prabal  Point,  where 

ii  a  fori  of  the  same  name,  which 


=^|8es 
/old 


/, 


signifies  * '  Mi^^hty. "  Between  Matheran 
and  Prabal  the  mountain  sinks  down 
abruptly  to  the  plain.  Below  and  to 
the  N.  of  Panorama  Point  is  the  Bhao 
Mallin  (or  Bawa  Malang)  Range,  10 
m.  long,  with  strange  cylindrical  or 
bottle-^aped  peaks.  The  huts  of  Neral 
village  lie  directly  below,  and  beyond 
them  is  the  curving  line  of  the  G.I. P. 
Bly.  Matheran  is  28  m.  due  £.  of 
Bombay,  which  may  be  seen  with  its 
shipping  on  a  clear  day.  In  the  even- 
ing a  nde  may  be  taken  to  the  new 
Bund,  an  embankment  of  very  hard 
blue  stone,  which  is  quarried  on  the 
spot.  It  is  100  ft  long  and  3  ft.  broad 
at  top.  There  are  other  points  which 
may  be  visited  in  the  hills,  but  none 
equal  to  those  already  mentioned.] 

62  m.  Kaijat  junc.  sta.  From  here 
a  short  line  runs  S.  9  m.  to  Campoli, 
but  it  is  only  used  in  the  dry  season. 
At  Karjat  the  engine  is  changed  for 
one  much  more  powerful  to  ascend  the 
Bor  Ghat,  The  ghat  begins  1  m.  from 
Karjat.  The  gn^ent  is  1  in  42  ;  the 
trains  are  famished  with  powerful 
brakes.  The  circuitous  line  passes 
through,  to  Lonauli  (17  m.),  a  succes- 
sion of  short  tunnels  with  beautiful 
views  between  of  green  valleys  and 
rocky  wooded  mountain  sides,  down 
which,  in  the  rains,  innumerable  water* 
falls  descend.  After  rising  about  1000 
ft,  the  Flag-staff  and. D.B.  at  Ehandala 
are  seen  far  up  on  the  left,  and  on  the 
right  the  level  valley  from  Panwell  to 
CampolL  The  latter  is  a  large  and 
very  pretty  village,  with  a  fine  tank 
and  temple  to  Mahadeo,  built  by  the 
celebrated  Maratha  minister.  Nana 
Farnavis.  Campoli  is  28^  m.  from 
PanwelL^  The  scenery  is  beautiful. 
At  the  back  of  Nana's  Temple  th* 
ghat  rises  perpendicularly  and  seems 
to  overhang  it ;  over  the  lake  spreads 
a  magnificent  banyan  tree,  and  near  il 
is  a  grove  of  mango  trees. 

The  Gk>vernment  Bungalow  at  Ehan 
dala,  the  lowest  point  on  the  tableland 
reached  by  the  rly.,  is  1800  ft.  and  at 
Lonauli  the  ghat  is  2037  /».  above  the 


1  The  old  roate  to  Foona  from  Bombay  was 
by  boat  across  the  harbour  to  Panwell,  and 
thence  to  Campoli. 


320 


BOUTE  24.   BOMBAY  TO  MADRAS 


/ru2tai 


The  total  length  of  tunnelling  is 
2585  yds.  The  estimated  cost  of  this 
incline  was  £597,222,  or  £41,188  a 
mile. 

The  beautiful  scenery  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  peculiar  character  of  the 
incline,  make  the  passage  of  the  Bor 
QhcU  one  of  the  most  remarkable  stages 
in  Indian  travel.  At  the  reversing- 
station,  one  portion  of  the  incline  is, 
as  it  were,  terraced  1400  ft.  directly 
over  the  Eonkan.  In  some  parts  the 
line  is  one  half  on  rock  benching,  while 
the  other  half  is  supported  by  lofty 
walls  of  masonry,  or  m  places  where 
the  height  is  too  great  for  a  wall,  by 
vaulted  arches.  The  viaduct  that 
crosses  the  Mhau  ki  Mali  Khind  is  163 
ft.  high  above  the  footing,  and  consists 
of  eight  semicircular  arches  of  50  ft. 
span. 

At  1850  ft  above  the  sea  the  train 
halts  for  ten  minutes  at  the  revers- 
ing-station;  the  halt  being  for  the 
engine  to  pass  to  the  other  end  of  the 
train. 

78  m.  Ehandala,  D.B.^  This 
beautiful  village  has  for  Ions  been  a 
favourite  retreat  for  the  wealthy  in- 
habitants of  Bombay  from  the  dis- 
tressing heat  of  the  summer  months. 
It  presents  many  attractions  to  the 
tourist  and  the  sportsman.  The  vlUage 
itself  is  large.  On  the  left  of  the  road 
is  a  bunealow  built  by  General  Dicken- 
son, of  uie  Bombay  Engineers,  who  did 
much  to  make  the  place  known,  and 
to  improve  the  roads.  The  site  is  well 
chosen ;  it  overlooks  a  tremendous 
ravine,  the  sheer  depth  of  which  is  in 
great  part  concealed  by  luxuriant  trees. 
At  the  bottom  winds  a  small  silvery 
stream.  About  J  m.  froin  this  stands 
the  D.B.,  also  on  the  edge  of  the 
ravine;  and  on  the  right  is  a  large 
tank,  adjoining  which  is  the  bungalow 
of  Sir  Jamshidji  Jijibhai.  Leading 
past  this,  to  the  E.,  is  a  road  to  a 
magnificent  hill  called  the  Duke's 
Nose,  whence  is  a  fine  view  over  the 
Eonkan,  similar  to  those  at  Matheran, 
already  described.  There  is  a  Ootvoo- 
lesoent  SaapiiaZ  at  Ehandala  in  charge 
of  the  "All  Saints'"  sisters  (from 
Margaret  Street). 


Beyond  the  tank  is  the  rillige  of 
Ehandala;  and  still  farther  on  the 
Earli  Road  is  the  beantifol  wood  of 
Lanauli. 

The  Water/all  is  distant  from  the 
D.B.  about  i  m.  on  the  opposite  sde 
of  the  ravine.  To  reach  it,  it  is  mees- 
sary  to  go  about  1}  m.  round  the  hod 
of  a  watercourse.  In  the  monsoon  tb 
distant  view  of  the  fall  from  the  top 
of  the  ghat  is  very  fine.  There  ive 
then  two  cataracts,  divided  into  nrai 
and  lower  by  a  short  interval  Th 
upper  cataract  has  a  sheer  fall  of  300  ft, 

80  m.  Lonanli  sta.  3^  (R.)  Here  i 
the  G.I.  P.  Railway  Company's  Schd 
and  Church,  and  from  this  place  i 
from  Ehandala  the  tall  precipice  ciIU 
the  Duke's  Nose,  which  is  about  4  ■ 
off,  may  be  visited.  The  ascent  ii  I) 
the  S.  shoulder,  and  is  very  8tei| 
A  traveller  desiring  to  see  the  cares  i 
Kdrli  should  bear  in  mind  that  h 
trains  stop  at  Earli  station,  bnt  I 
stop  at  LonaulL  The  caves  are  on! 
6  m.  from  Lonauli,  which  is  a  goi 
place  to  start  from.  A  pony  can  li 
ridden  all  the  wav ;  a  tonga  can  ( 
within  i  m.  of  the  caves,  to  whk 
the  path  winds  in  easy  gradient 

85  m.  K^U  sta.  *i  D.B.  Hei 
is  a  small  village  to  the  right,  hidda 
among  trees.  The  eeU^aUd  cm 
are  on  a  hill  about  2  m.  to  tfa 
N.W.  of  the  bungalow  and  6  m.  froi 
the  rly.  sta. 

The  following  is  from  Mr.  Fereusaoii^ 
description  of  the  Earli  cave:^  "Thi 
great  cave  of  Earli  is,  without  excep- 
tion, the  largest  and  finest  chaitTt 
cave  in  India,  and  was  excavated  at  • 
time  when  the  style  was  in  its  greatal 
purity,  and  is  fortunately  the  best  p«- 
served.  Its  interior  dimensions  in 
124  ft.  8  in.  in  total  length,  81  ft  J 
in.  length  of  nave.  Its  breadth  frM 
wail  to  wall  is  45  ft.  6  in.,  while  tin 
width  of  the  central  aisle  is  25  ft  7  n 
The  height  is  only  46  ft  from  the  flo« 
to  the  apex."  lie  same  writer  sa^ 
"The  building  resembles  an  eui) 
Christian  church  in  its  anangement^ 

1  JZodlMia  TmpUt  ^fl9Aii^  p*  tf* 


fiOUTE  24.      KABLI 


321 


Bliile  all  the  dimensions  are  similar  to 
lose  of  the  choir  of  Norwich  Cathe- 
dral." The  nave  is  separated  from  the 
side  aisles  by  fifteen  columns  with 
i»ctagonal  shafts  on  each  side,  of  good 
design  and  workmanship.  On  the 
abacus  which  crowns  the  capital  of 
each  of  these  are  two  kneeling  ele- 
phants, and  on  each  elephant  are  two 
seated  figures,  generally  a  male  and 
female,  with  their  arms  over  each 
other's  shoulders  ;  but  sometimes  two 
female  figures  in  the  same  attitude. 
The  sculpture  of  these  is  very  good, 
and  the  effect  particularly  rich  and 
pleasing.  Behind  the  altar  are  seven 
plain  octagonal  piers  without  sculpture, 
making  thus  thirty-seven  pillars  alto- 
gether, exclusive  of  the  Lion-pillar  in 
firont,  which  is  sixteen-sided,  and  is 
crowned  with  four  lions  with  their 
hinder  parts  joined.     The  chaitya  is 

E*  I  and  very  similar  to  that  in  the 
cave  at  Ajanta,  but  here,  fortun- 
^,  a  part  of  the  wooden  umbrella 
which  surmounted  it  remains.  The 
wooden  ribs  of  the  roof,  too,  remain 
nearly  entire,  proving  beyond  doubt 
that  the  roof  is  not  a  copy  of  a  masonry 
arch ;  and  the  framed  screen,  filling 
up  a  portion  of  the  great  arch  in  fi:ont, 
like  the  centering  of  the  arch  of  a 
bridge  (which  it  much  resembles),  still 
retains  the  place  in  which  it  was  origin- 
ally placed.  At  some  distance  in  ad- 
vance of  the  arched  front  of  this  cave 
is  placed  a  second  screen,  which  exists 
only  here  and  at  the  great  cave  at  Sal- 
sette,  though  it  might  have  existed  in 
front  of  the  oldest  chaitya  caves  at 
Ajanta.  It  consists  of  two  plain  octa- 
gonal columns  with  pilasters.  Over 
these  is  a  deep  plain  mass  of  wall,  oc- 
cupying the  place  of  an  entablature, 
and  over  this  again  a  superstructure 
of  four  dwarf  pillars.  Except  the 
lower  piers,  the  whole  of  this  has  been 
covered  with  wooden  ornaments  ;  and, 
by  a  careful  examination  and  measure- 
ment of  the  various  mortices  and  foot- 
ings, it  might  still  be  possible  to  make 
out  the  greater  part  of^  the  design.  It 
appears,  however,  to  have  consisted 
of  a  broad  balcony  in  front  of  the 
plain  wall,  supported  by  bold  wooden 
brackets  from  the  two  piers,  and  either 
[India] 


roofed  or  having  a  second  balcony 
above  it  No  part  of  the  wood,  how- 
ever, exists  now,  either  here  or  at  Sal- 


Gave  at  Earli. 

sette.  It  is  more  than  probable,  how- 
ever, that  this  was  the  music  gallery 
or  Nakar  Khana,  which  we  stUl  find 
existing  in  front  of  almost  all  Jain 
temples,  down  even  to  the  present  day. 
Whether  the  space  between  this  outer 
and  the  inner  screen  was  roofed  over 
or  not  is  extremely  difficult  to  decide. 
To  judge  from  the  mortices  at  Salsette, 
the  space  there  would  seem  to  have 
had  a  roof;  but  here  the  evidence  is 
by  no  means  so  distinct,  though  there 
is  certainly  nothing  to  contradict  the 
supposition.  There  are  no-:traoe»  of 
painting  in  this  cave,  though  the  inner 

Y  _ 


9sa 


ROUTS  .24..     B0UJ3AX  TO  HADBAS 


Indit 


UttU  bis  btan  plaiteMd,  uid  ma^  have 
beea  pointed ;  but  the  cave  is  inhabited, 
and  th«  continued  smoke  of  cooking- 
fires  has  so  blackened  its  walls  that  it 
is  impossible  to  decide  the  question. 
Its  inhabitants  ai*e  Shivites,  and  the 
care  is  considered  a  temple  dedicated 
to  Shiva,  the  dagoba  performing  the 
part  of  a  gigantic  lingam,  which  it  re- 
sembles a  ^od  deal.  The  outer  porch 
is  62  ft.  wide  and  15  ft.  deep.  Here 
originally  the  fronts  of  three  elephants 
in  each  end  wall  supported  a  frieze 
ornamented  with  the  rail,  but  at  both 
ends  this  second  rail  has  been  cut  away 
to-  introduce  figures.  Above  was  a 
tMck  quadrantal  moulding,  and  then 
a  rail  with  small  facades  of  temples, 
and  pairs  of  figures. 

"  It  wonld  be  of  great  importance  if 
the  age  of  this  cave  could  be  positively 
fixed ;  but  though  that  cannot  quite  be 
done,  it  is  probably  antecedent  to  the 
Christian  era ;  and  at  the  same  time 
it  cannot  possibly  have  been  excavated 
more  than  200  vears  before  that  era. 
From  the  Silasthamba  (pillar)  on  the 
left  of  the  entrance  Colonel  Sykes 
copied  an  inscription,  which  Mr.  Prin- 
sep  deciphered  in  vol.  vi.  of  the 
Jov/mal  of  the  AsicUic  Society.  It 
merely  says:  *This  lion -pillar  is  the 
gift  of  Ajmitra  Ukas,  the  son  of  Saha 
Bavisabhoti ' ;  the  character  Prinsep 
thinks  is  of  the  1st  or  2d  century  b.c. 
From  its  position  and  import,  the 
inscription  appears  to  be  integral,  and 
the  column  is  certainly  a  part  of  the 
original  design.  I  am  inclined  to 
think  the  date,  163  B.C.,  is  at  least 
extremely  probable. 

"It  would  be  a  subject  of  curious 
inquiry  to  know  whether  the  wood- 
work now  existing  in  this  cave  is  that 
originally  put  up  or  not.  Accustomed 
as  I  had  long  been  to  the  rapid 
destruction  of  everything  wooden  in 
India,  I  was  half  inclined  to  be  angry 
when  the  idea  first  suggested  itself  to 
we ;  but  a  calmer  survey  of  the  matter 
has  convinced  me  that  it  is.  Certain 
i%  is  that  it  is  the  original  design,  for 
we  find  it  repeated  in  stone  in  all 
the  niches  of  the  front,  and  there  is 
Tio  appearance  of  change  or  alteration 
Iftsil^  put  of  the  roof.    Every  part  of 


it  ia  the  same  at  ii  saen  lo  often,  m 
peated  in  stone  in  other  and  wmB 
modem  caves,  and  it  must,  therefoi^r 
have  been  put  up  by  the  Baddhirtl 
before  they  were  expelled  ;  and  if  W 
allow  that  it  has  existed  800  or  lOQI' 
years,  which  it  certainly  has,  the* 
is  not  much  greater  improbability  ii 
its  having  existed  near  2000  years,  ul 
believe  to  be  the  case.  As  far  as  i 
could  ascertain  the  wood  is  teaki 
Though  exposed  to  the  atmosphei% 
it  is  protected  from  the  rain,  and  hai 
no  strain  upon  it  but  its  own  weighty 
as  it  does  not  support  the  roof,  thongk^ 
it  appears  to  do  so  ;  and  the  roekl 
seems  to  have  defied  the  industiy  tk 
the  white  ants." 

Mr.  Fergusson  appends  to  his  notifli 
of  this  '^  decidedly  the  finest  chaitfg 
cave  in  India,"  a  general  description  ' 
the  arrangement  of  such  caves.  Hi 
observes  that  the  disposition  of  partsii 
exactly  the  same  as  those  of  the  choil 
of  a  Gothic  round  or  polygonal  aptf 
cathedral  Across  the  front  there  * 
always  a  screen  with  a  gallery  ot9 
it,  occupying  the  place  of  the  rood-lofl| 
on  which  we  now  place  our  oi^gaii& 
In  this  there  are  three  doors ;  one,  tht 
largest,  opening  to  the  nave,  and  onfl 
to  each  of  the  side  aisles.  Over  the 
screen  the  whole  front  of  the  cave  is 
open  to  the  air,  being  one  vast  window, 
stilted  so  as  to  be  more  thto  a  semi* 
circle  in  height,  or,  generally^  of  » 
horse-shoe  form.  The  whole  light  falls 
on  the  dagoba,  which  is  exactly 
opposite,  in  the  place  of  the  altar, 
while  the  colonnade  around  and  behind 
is  less  perfectly  lit,  the  pillars  hemg 
very  close  together.  To  a  person 
standing  near  uie  door  there  appeared 
nothing  behind  the  dagoba  but  "il- 
limitable gloom."  The  writer  above- 
mentioned  thinks  that  a  votary  was 
never  admitted  beyond  the  colonnade 
under  the  front,  the  rest  of  the  temple 
being  devoted  to  the  priests  and  the 
ceremonies,  as  in  China,  and  in  Catho- 
lic churches,  and  he  therefore  never 
could  see  whence  the  light  came,  and 
stood  in  comparative  shade  hiznself, 
so  that  the  effect  was  greatly  height-  ■ 
eued. 
.  The  hill  in.which  the  caves  an  ii 


BOUTS  24.     CAVE9  OF  BHAJil  AND  BBDSA. 


mj  steep,  and  about  600  ft.  hkh  from 
p»  plain.  A  huge  round  cliff  like  a 
»wer  shuts  in  the  view  in  one  direction. 
%e  guides  call  the  male  and  female 
igures  in  the  portico  bairagis,  or  de- 
votees. The  figure  on  the  dagoba  they 
idl  Dharma  Eaja,  the  Hindu  Minos. 

Besides  the  great  cave  at  Karli,  there 
«©  a  number  of  viharas,  but  small  and 
FoiT  insignificant  compared  with  it ; 
tad  this,  Mr.  Fergusson  thinks,  is  a 
woof  of  their  antiquity.  For  at  first 
lie  viharas  were  mere  cells,  where, 
IS  Fa-hian  says,  "the  Arhats  sat  to 
Reditate,"  and  as  the  religion  was 
wrmpted,  became  magnificent  halls 
ad  temples.  Such  are  the  viharas  at 
^anta.  The  principal  viharas  at  Karli 
ate  three  tiers  in  height.  They  are  plain 
nils  with  cells,  but  without  any  inter- 
lal  colonnades,  and  the  upper  one  alone 
KMsesses  a  verandah.  The  lower  fronts 
«ve  been  swept  away  by  great  masses 
tf  rock  which  nave  rolled  from  above. 
%e&T  this  is  a  small  temple  to  Bhavani, 
rith  the  figure  of  a  tortoise  in  front  of 
be  image,  which  is  that  of  a  moon- 
aeed  female  with  huge  eyes. 
*  There  is  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of 
be  hill  in  which  the  caves  are  called 
iStvira,  and  from  this  the  great  cave  is 
lometimes  called  the  Cave  of  Ekvira. 

Besides  the  caves,  the  traveller  while 
it  Karli  may  also  visit  the  hill-forts  of 
k>hogarlL  and  Visapur,  3  m.  S.  of  the 
•ilway  station  (see  Grant  Duff,  pp.  13, 
t4),  which  are  at  an  elevation  of  1200 
I.  above  the  plain,  with  a  sheer  scarp 
»f  200  ft.  Logarh  was  taken  by  Malik 
Ihmad  from  theMarathas  in  1485  a.d. 
aid  by  Shivaji  in  1648,  and  again  by 
he  same  chief  in  1670.  It  was  here 
hat  the  widow  of  Nana  Farnavis  took 
"efiige  from  the  time  of  Amrit  Rao's 
»mingto  Poona,  on  the  12th  November 
1802,  to  15th  March  1804,  when  Gen- 
>ral  Wellesley,  according  to  the  pro- 
posal of  Dhondu  Balal  Eil'adar,  of 
iiOgarh,  guaranteed  to  her  her  safety, 
md  an  annual  pension  of  12,000  rs. 
tiogarh  was  twice  taken  by  the  English 
vith  little  difficulty. 

The  Caves  of  Bhaja  and  Bedsa.^— 

^  A  full  account  of  these  places  will  be 
GDimd  in  Cave  Tm/pLta  of  India,  pp.  223,  228. 


Bhiga  is  a  villa^  2  m.  S.  of.  Karli,  aivii 
Bedsa  is  5i  m.  R  of  Bhaja.^  The 
caves  of  Bhaja  are  situated  3  m.  S.E, 
from  the  village  of  Earli,  and  date 
from  200  B.C.  There  are  eighteen  ex* 
cavations,  and  No.  12  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  India.  Bedsa  dates 
a  little  later  than  Bhaja.  The  princi- 
pal temple  contains  a  dagoba,  but  no 
sculptures,  and  has  its  roof  supported 
by  twenty-seven  plain  pillars.  Out- 
side there  is  a  group  executed  in  bas- 
relief,  now  much  aefaced.  On  both 
sides  of  the  shrine  the  hill  has  been 
excavated  into  two  stories,  correspond- 
ing with  the  height  of  the  temple,  an4 
containing  the  usual  halls  of  instruct 
tion,  with  cells.  But  the  most  curious 
of  the  sculptures  is  a  collection  of  four- 
teen dagobas,  five  of  which  are  inside 
and  the  others  outside  the  cave.  On 
the  first  of  the.  latter  there  is  an  in- 
scription. The  group  of  horses,  bulls, 
and  elephants  on  the  four  pillars  in 
front  of  the  arched  cave  at  Bedsa 
resembles  what  we  find  on  the  Indo- 
Mithraic  coins  of  the  N.,  and  is 
evidence,  were  no  other  proofs  pro- 
curable, that  such  belongs  to  ^e 
worship  of  the  sun.  The  caves  at 
Bedsa  are  situated  about  6  m.  S.W. 
from  Wargaon  (see  below).  The  plan 
of  the  temple  resembles  Earli,  but  is 
neither  of  so  great  extent,  nor  so  well 
executed,  and  appears  more  modem. 
It  contains  a  dagoba ;  and  its  roof,, 
which  is  ribbed  and  supported  by 
twenty -six  octagonal  pillars  10  ft.  high, 
seems  to  have  been  covered  with  paint- 
ings, which  are  now,  however,  so  indis- 
tinct that  nothing  can  be  made  out  of 
them.  There  are  four  pillars  about  25 
ft.  high  in  front,  surmounted  by  a 
group  of  horses,  bulls,  and  elephants, 
with  a  male  and  female  rider  upon 
them.  The  hall  of  inetruction,  which 
is  of  an  oval  shape,  has  a  vaulted  roof, 
and  is  situated  close  to  the  temple.  It 
contains  eleven  small  cells,  and  over 
the  door  of  one  of  them  there  is  an 
indistinct  and  partly  defaeed  inscrip- 
tion. 
96  m.  Wargaon  sta.,  a  very  large  and 

1  In  ,  the  /(wmol   of  the  Bombay  AsiaMe 
Society  for  May  1844,  Art  vi.,  there  iaalao. 
some  account  of  these  caves. 


324 


BOUTS  24.   BOKBAT  TO  MADBAB 


M 


flooriahing  Tillage,  celebrated  for  the 
defeat  of  a  Britisn  force  under  Lieut. - 
Ool.  Cockbuni,  on  the  12th  and  13th 
of  January  1779,  and  for  a  convention 
concluded  there  by  Mr.  Oamac  with 
theMarathaa. 

109  m.  Chinchwad  ata.  The  village 
has  a  picturesque  appearance  from  the 
river-side.  Above  tne  handsome  flight 
of  stone  steps  which  leads  to  the  river 
Mula  are  many  fine  trees,  but  the 
temple  is  low  and  devoid  of  ornament. 

116  m.  Kirkee  sta.  is  only  8]  m. 
from  Poona,  and  may  be  considered 
part  of  the  same  station.  It  is  inter- 
esting as  being  the  scene  of  a  splendid 
victory  over  Baji  Rao,  the  last  reshwa. 
On  the  1st  of  November  1817  the  dis- 
positions of  that  prince  had  become  so 
threatening,  that  Mr.  Elphinstone, 
then  Resident  at  Poona,  determined  to 
remove  the  troops  from  the  cantonment 
of  that  place  to  Kirkee,  where,  on  the 
5th,  they  took  up  a  good  position  to  the 
east  of  an  eminence,  on  which  stands 
the  village  of  Eirkee,  and  where  the 
stores  and  ammunition  were  stationed. 
In  the  rear  of  the  troops  was  the  river 
Mula,  and  from  the  S.  and  W.  advanced 
themassesof  thePeshwa'sarmy,  amount- 
ing to  8000  foot,  18,000  horse,  and  14 
guns,^  besides  a  reserve  of  5000  horse  and 
2000  foot  with  the  Peshwa,  at  the  sacred 
hill  of  Parbati  (see  below).  The  canton- 
ments at  Poona  and  the  Residency  at 
the  Sangam  (or  meeting  of  the  rivers) 
hadbeen  plundered  and  burnt  on  the  1st, 
as  soon  as  the  English  troops  quitted 
them.  One  regiment  of  Major  Ford's 
brigade  was  at  Dapuri,  N.  of  Eirkee, 
and  the  total  strength  of  the  English, 
even  when  it  joinea,  was,  according  to 
Grant  Duflf,  but  2800  rank  and  file,  of 
which  800  were  Europeans. 

Gokla  commanded  the  Peshwa*8 
army,  and  its  advance  is  compared  by 
Grant  Duff,  who  was  an  eye-witness, 
to  the  rushing  tide  called  the  Bor  in 
the  Gulf  of  Cambay.  It  swept  all 
before  it,  trampling  down  the  hedges 
and  fields  of  standing  com  which  then 
covered  the  plain.  Colonel  Burr,  who 
commanded  the  English,  was  now  in- 
1  Grant  Duff,  voL  iii.  p.  427. 


formed  that  Mi^or  Ford  wai  advti 
ing  with  his  regiment,  the  Peshv 
own,  from  Dapuri  on  the  W.,  to  i 
him ;   and  in  order  to  facilitate  I 
junction,  he  moved  the  main  force 
a  position  about  a  mile  in  adYam 
and  to  the  S.W.   of  the  village 
Eirkee.    The  Maratha  leaders  had  bi 
tampering  for  some  time  with  the  iq 
ment  that  was  moving  from  Dapi 
and  they  fully  expected  it  would  oa 
over,  as  it  was  paid  by  the  Peshi 
A    strong    body  of   horse,  therefo 
under  Moro  Dikshat,  the  prime  niin 
ter  of  the  Peshwa,  advanced  abonl 
P.M.  upon  the  Dapuri  battalion,  I 
Major  Ford,  throwing  back  his  i^ 
wing,  opened  a  heavy  fire  upon  ' 
Marathas,  both  of  musketry  and  fi 
three  small  guns  commanded  by  Capt 
Thew.     A  good  many  Marathas  I 
and  amon^  them  Moro  Dikshat 
the  meantime,   Gokla  had    organi 
an  attack  on  the  left  flank  of  the  £ 
lish  main  force,  and  this  was  led  b 
regular    battalion    commanded   bf 
Portuguese  named    De   Pento ; 
after  his  discomfiture,  a  select  body 
6000  horse,  with  the  Jari  Patka, 
golden  pennon,  flying  at  their  ~ 
charged  the  7th  Ki.  as  they  ^ 
pursuing  De    Pento's  men.     Gokjj 
horse  was  wounded  in  this  charge, 
his  advance  was  stopped ;  but  tbi 
were  other  gallant   leaders,  such 
Nam  Pant  Apte  and  Mahadeo  \ 
Rastia  ;  and  it  was  well  for  the  Sepq 
that  a  swamp  in  their  front  check 
the  charge    of   the  Marathas,  whi 
horsemen   rolled  headlong   over 
another  in  the  deep  slough.    As  it  vis, 
some  cut  their  way  through  the  Sepoy 
battalion ;    but,    instead    of  taminf 
back,  when  they  might  have  destroyed 
the  re^ment,  they  rode  off  to  plunder 
the  village  of   Eirkee,   whence  they 
were  repulsed  by  a  fire  of  grape.    After 
this  charge,    the    Marathas  drew  oif 
with  a  total  loss  of  about  500  men, 
while  that  of  the  English  was  bat  86. 
On  the  18th  Gener^  Smi&'s  army 
arrived  from  Sirur,  and  the  Peshwi, 
after  a  slight  resistance,  put  hia  vnsj 
to  full  retreat    The  most  remarkabb 
point  in  the  battle  of  Eirkee  is,  pe^ 
haps,  the  eztraordinaiy  steadiness  i 


tiotrrs  24.     l^ooiiA 


325 


tjoT  Ford's  raiment  under  great 
BDptation.  In  it  i^ere  upwards  of  70 
mthas,  yet  not  a  man  deserted  on 
B  day  of  battle,  though  promised 
lit  sums  to  join  their  countrymen, 
fter  the  action,  the  Marathas,  but 
lly  the  Marathas,  ioined  the  enemy, 
|ia  many  of  them  being  subsequently 
Iptured,  their  culpability,  such  as  it 
•8,  was  very  properly  ignored,  and 
^y  were  set  free. 

£irkee  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Mwy  Artillery,  J  m.  N.E.  of  the 
tnacks  is  the  SmcUl  Arms  Ammuni- 
hn,  Facton/,  and  to  the  N.  are  the 
^oder  Works  (permission  to  enter 
Dth  must  be  obtained  from  the  Com- 
iandant  of  the  Artillery). 
Christ  Church,  Kirkee,  in  the  Artil- 
Uy  Lines,  was  consecrated  in  1841. 
Iiere  are  two  Colours  of  the  23d  Regt. 
tombay  N.I.  inside  the  W.  door, 
imongst  the  memorial  tablets  is  one  to 
0  officers  of  the  14th  King's  Light 
hagoons,  who  died  or  were  killed 
etween  1841  and  1859;  and  another 
0  90  non-commissioned  officers  of  the 
lame  regiment. 

N.E.  of  the  ArtiUery  Mess  is  SL 
Vinemt  De  PauCs  Boman  Catholic 
Chapel. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  spots  at 
Eirkee,  passed  on  the  road  to  Poona, 
\BHolkar*8  Bridge  over  the  Mula  river, 
a  stream  which  skirts  Kirkee  to  the 
8.E.  and  N.  The  river  is  200  yds. 
broad  at  this  spot.  On  the  rt.  of  the 
road  is  an  old  English  cemetery,  and, 
on  the  1.,  about  300  yds.  to  the  N., 
is  the  New  Barial  Ground.  After 
crossing  the  Mula,  the  road  passes  on 
the  rt  the  tomb  of  Khande  Rao 
Holkar,  and  on  the  1.  are  the  Sappers' 
and  Miners'  Lines,  and  after  them  the 
Oeccan  College  and  the  lines  of  the 
28th  Pioneers,  rt  Beyond  these  are 
the  Jamshidji  Bund,  the  Fitzgerald 
Bridge,  and  the  BuTid  Gardens  (for  all 
of  which  see  below  under  Poena). 

The  OoTemment  House  is  at  Ganesh 
Khind,  1^  m.  S.W.  of  Kirkee  rly.  sta., 
ind  8i  m.  N.W.  of  the  city  of  Poona. 
It  derives  its  name  from  a  small  khind 
or  pass  between  hills,  about  f  m.  S.E. 
of  the  house,  which  resembles  a  modem 
French  chateau,  and  has  a  tall  slim 


tower,  80  ft  high,  from  the  top  of  which 
there  is  a  fine  view — Kirkee,  with  its 
powder  works,  and  the  Deocan  College, 
and  Parbati  Hill  to  the  S.E.  The 
house  contains  the  usual  reception 
rooms,  a  ballroom,  darbar-room,  etc., 
and  has  a  flower  gallery  or  garden 
corridor  90  ft  long.  The  woodwork  of 
the  staircase  is  very  beautiful. 

119  m.  POONA  3^  June.  sta.  of  the 
G.I.P.  and  S.  Maratha  Rlys.  (see  Rte.  23). 
The  rly.  sta.  is  conveniently  situated 
between  the  city  and  the  cantonment, 
and  close  to  the  most  im^rtant  public 
offices.  Poona  is  the  residence  of  the 
Governor  of  Bombay  during  the  rainy 
season.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Bombay  army,  and  the  ancient  capital 
of  the  Marathas.  The  pop.  of  Poona 
is  160,460.  The  first  mention  we 
have  of  Poona  is  in  the  Maratha  annals 
of  1599  A.D.,  when  the  parganahs 
of  Poona  and  Supa  were  made  over  to 
Malaji  Bhonsle  (grandfather  of  Shivaji) 
by  the  Nizam  Shahi  Government  In 
1750  it  became  the  Maratha  capital 
under  Balaji  Baji  Rao.  In  1763  it  was 
plundered  and  destroyed  by  Nizam  'All, 
and  here,  on  the  25th  of  October, 
Jeswant  Rao  Holkar  defeated  tiie  com- 
bined armies  of  the  Peshwa  and  Sindia, 
and  captured  all  the  guns,  bagga^, 
and  stores  of  the  latter.  The  city 
stands  in  a  somewhat  treeless  plain  on 
the  right  of  the  Muta  river,  a  little 
before  it  joins  the  Mula.  At  its  ex- 
treme S.  limit  is  the  hill  of  Parbati, 
so  called  from  a  celebrated  temple  to 
the  goddess  Durga,  or  Parbati  on  its 
summit  (see  below).  A  few  m.  to  the 
E.  and  N.E.  are  the  hills  which  lead 
up  to  the  still  higher  tableland  in  the 
direction  of  Satara.  The  station  is 
healthy  and  the  climate  pleasant  The 
Aqueduct  was  built  by  one  of  the  Rastias, 
a  family  of  great  distinction  amongst 
the  Marathas.  There  are  also  exten- 
sive waterworks,  constructed  by  Sir 
Jamshidji  Jijibhai,  which  cost  upwards 
of  £20,000.  Of  this  sum  the  Parsi 
baronet  contributed  £17,500. 

The  Assembly  Booms  or  Gymkhana 
is  a  large  building  and  contains  a  hand- 
some Mlroom,  with  a  stage  at  one  end  . 
for  theatricals ;  and  the  United  Service         / 


326 


ttOtJTE  24.      BOMBAY  to  MADRAS 


tvSa 


Liln-ary,  which  possesses  a  good  selec- 
tion of  books.  In  the  grounds  of  the 
building  are  lawn -tennis  courts,  a 
eoTered  Badminton  court,  and  a  good 
criJBk«t-ground. 

Kear  the  Assembly  Rooms,  on  the 
road  to  the  BundCrardens,  is  theCouHoil 
Hall,  containing  a  few  pictures  of  some 
interest  if  not  of  hi^h  artistic  merit, 
amongst  which  are  Sir  B.  Frere,  Lady 
Frere,  Ehan  Bahadur  Padamji  Pestai^i, 
Khan  Bahadur  Naushirwa^ji,  Lord 
Napier  of  Ma^dala,  Ehan  Bahadur 
Pestai^i  Sorabji,  Framji  Patel,  the 
Crown  Prince  of  Travancore,  Sir  Man- 
^das  Nathubhai,  Dr.  Bhau  Daji,  the 
Raja  of  Kochin,  Sir  Salar  Jang,  the 
Thakors  of  Bhaunagar  and  Morvi,  and 
Khande  Rao  Gaekwar. 

St.  PauVs  Church  has  four  stained 
glass  windows  at  the  E.  end. 

The  Sassoon  BospitcU  (nursed  by  the 
Wantage  sisters),  in  the  Gothic  style,  is 
at  the  end  of  the  Arsenal  Road.  There 
is  accommodation  for  150  patients  of 
all  classes  and  nationalities. 

Opposite  the  hospital  are  the  Collec- 
tor's CtUeherry  and  the  Chvemment 
Treasury,  About  250  yds.  S.  of  St. 
Paul's  Church  is  the  Jews'  Synagogue^ 
a  red-brick  building  with  a  tower  90  ft. 
high,  consecrated  29th  September  1867. 
Zhvid  Sassoon's  tonib  adjoins  the  syna- 
gogue, which  was  built  by  him.  The 
mausoleum  is  16  ft  sq.  and  28  ft.  high. 

It  is  a  drive  of  IJ  m.  to  the  S.£.  pass- 
ing the  Arsenal  to  SL  Mary's  Churchy 
consecrated  by  Bishop  Heber  in  1825. 
Here  are  buried  many  officers  of  dis- 
tinction, and  the  tablets  on  the  walls 
recall  stirring  incidents  in  the  history 
of  India.  The  Font  in  the  S.  W.  comer 
of  the  church  is  surrounded  .by  stained 
glass  windows. 

E.  of  the  Church  are  the  General 
Parade  Oround  and  Bace-course,  the 
latter  included  in  the  former,  and 
about  1  m.  long.  The  races  are  gener- 
ally run  in  September.  Close  to  it  are 
the  Oymnasium,  St.  Andrew's  Church, 
and  the  Masonic  Lodge,  and  to  the  N. 
are  the  Ohoripuri  European  Barracks. 
To  the  S.  are  the  fVanatvri  Barracks. 

Two  Scottish  Mi88ions(Free  and  Est. 
Church),  and  a  Union  Marathi  Church 
are  conducted  in  the  city  and  suburbs. 


The  Society  of  St  John  theEvangdid 
has  a  native  Mission  at  Poona;  the  nus- 
sion-honse  is  at  Panch  Howds,  Yetal 
Peit.  There  are  schools  for  boys  of 
various  classes,  an  Industrial  School,  an 
Orphanage,  and  a  School  for  Catechuti. 

The  Sisters  of  St.  Mary  (he  Virgk 
(Wantage)  have  also  their  mission-hoBS 
at  Panch  Howds,  and  in  the  compoaod 
the  Epiphany  School  for  high  cka 
native  girls,  and  St.  Michael's  Schoal 
for  low  class  girls.  The  sisters  have 
also  under  their  charge  St.  Mary's  Higli 
School  for  European  and  Eurasian  girii 
(self-supporting).  A  village  school  at 
Parbeti  1  m.  from  Poona,  and  another 
at  Gerandaona  a  little  farther  off. 

The  San^r&m  is  the  name  given  to 
the  tongue  of  land  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Muta  river  flowing  from  the  S. 
with  the  Mula  river  coming  from  the 
N.W.  ;  it  is  perhaps  the  most  cental 
spot  of  the  combined  city  and  caotoih 
ments.  Upon  it  are  several  temples,  and 
from  it  are  pleasant  views  of  the  river. 

The  Wellesley  Bridge,  482  ft  loi^ 
and  28^  ft.  broad,  crosses  the  Mnta 
river  to  the  Sangam  promontory,  dose 
to  its  confluence  witn  the  Mula.  It 
takes  the  place  of  a  wooden  brid^ 
erected  to  commemorate  the  victories 
of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  in  India. 
The  present  bridge,  designed  by  CoL 
A.  U.  H.  Finch,  R.E.,  cost  110,932 is., 
and  was  opened  in  1875. 

On  the  1.  hand,  after  crossing  the 
Wellesley  Bridge,  are  the  Poona  Engm- 
eering  College,  and  E.  of  it  the  Distrid 
Court, — the  latter  a  long,  low  building 
on  the  site  of  the  Residency  of  the 
British  Agent,  Mountstuart  EUphis* 
stone,  at  the  time  of  the  ruptuie  with 
the  last  Peshwa,  Baji  Rao.  Hr. 
Elphinstone  retired  from  it  to  Eirkee 
before  the  battle,  and  the  Marathas 

Slundered  the  building  and  pulled  it 
own.  At  the  E.  end  of  Wellesley 
Bridge  is  a  path  to  the  left,  which 
leads  down  to  a  pretty  garden  with 
several  temples.  The  first  has  a  tower 
40  ft.  high.  The  garden  is  filled  with 
fruit  trees.  In  the  middle  of  the  garden 
is  a  second  temple,  nearly  as  broad  but 
not  so  high.  A  third  temple  at  the 
end  of  the  garden  was  buUt  by  Eolkar, 
who  destroyed  two  old  temples  to  boild 


POONA  ML  KIRKB£ 


i'itn/flriL    /tii*^t/:j£ 


1.  Small  Arms  and  Ammunition  Factory. 

15.  Bank. 

2.  Grand  Magazine. 

3.  Artillery  Barracks  and  Stables. 

16.  St.  Paul's  Church. 

17.  Synagogue. 

4.  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

18.  Arsenal 

5.  Bodyguard  Lines. 

19.  Telegraph  Office. 

6.  Royal  Connaught  Boat  Club. 

20.  St.  Mary's  (Garrison)  Church. 

7.  Commissariat  Lines. 

21.  Waterworks. 

8.  Military  Hospital. 

22.  Racecourse. 

9.  Parbati  Temples. 

23.  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

10.  Sappers'  and  Miners'  Lines. 

24.  City  Magistrate's  Court. 

11.  Poona  Boat  Club. 

25.  Asylum. 

13.  Coimcil  Hall. 

26.  Jail. 

14.  Sassoon  Hospital. 

27.  Parbati  Tank. 

Tofaup.  326. 


ftOUTE  24.      POONA 


UT 


it  All  are  dedicated  to  Mahadeo,  and 
thoup^h  small,  are  extremely  handsome. 
At  300  yds.  from  the  Engineering 
College  is  Sir  Albert  Sassoon's  House^ 
called  Garden  Reach.  It  was  built  be- 
tween 1862  and  1864,  and  cost  £80,000. 
The  gardens  are  beautiful,  ana  extend 
along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
rooms  in  the  principal  house  are  floored 
with  marble.  The  fine  dining-room  is 
connected  with  the  house  by  a  long, 
open  gallery.  .  Beside  it  is  an  open 
room,  with  sides  of  carved  wood,  where 
the  family  dine  during  the  Feast  of 
Tabernacles.  The  ceilingof  the  drawing- 
room  is  beautifully  decorated  by  Poona 
artists.  In  it  is  a  full-length  portrait 
of  David  Sassoon,  Sir  Albert's  father, 
who  must  have  been  strikingly  hand- 
some. A  fountain  in  the  garden  and 
the  water-tower  should  be  noticed. 
Permission  to  view  it  would  no  doubt 
be  granted  on  application. 

]^om  this  it  is  a  pleasant  drive  of 
If  m.  to  the  Jamshidji  Bund  and  the 
Fitzgerald  Bridge,  The  Bund  is  of  stone 
thrown  across  the  Mula  river,  and  on 
the  S.  side  of  it  are  the  pretty  Bund 
Qardens  of  six  acres. 

The  view  of  the  Fitzgerald  Bridge 
from  the  Bund  is  very  pretty  ;  above  it 
is  the  broad  stream,  350  yds.  wide,  on 
which  rowing  matches  take  place, 
chiefly  in  August.  Farther  aloDg  in 
this  direction,  towards  Kirkee  (see 
above),  is  the  Deccan  College,  built 
of  gray  trap-stone,  in  the  Gothic  style, 
at  a  cost  of  245,963  rs.,  of  which  half 
was  contributed  by  Sir  Jamshidji 
Jijibhai.  It  was  designed  by  Cap- 
tain H.  C.  Wilkins,  R.£.,  and  con- 
sists of  the  central  block  two  stories 
high,  with  two  wings,  forming  three 
sides  of  a  quadrangle,  surmounted  by 
a  high -pitched  iron  roof  coloured  red. 
At  the  N.  W.  comer  of  the  main  block 
is  a  tower  106  ft.  high.  The  win^s 
are  occupied  by  students,  and  the  mam 
hnilding  contains  class-rooms  and 
laboratory,  with  a  large  College  Hall  70 
ft.  long  above,  containing  the  Library. 

For  a  native  town  the  streets  of  the 
City  are  wide,  and  some  of  the  older 
houses  are  substantial  buildings  and 
extremely  picturesque.  It  is  divided 
into  seven  quarters,  named  after  the 


days  of  the  week  in  which  the  market 
was  held.  Amongst  the  industries  of 
the  town  may  be  mentioned  the  mak- 
ing of  gold  and  silver  thread  and  wipe 
for  embroidery  and  for  a  simple  kind 
of  jewellery,  the  stringing  of  beads  and 
berries  for  ornaments,  and  brass-woifk' 
of  all  kinds.  In  the  Shanwar,  or 
Saturday  division,  are  the  remains  of 
the  Peshwa's  Castle,  called  Junawada, 
or  "old  palace,"  a  large  enclosure  about 
180  yds.  sq.  It  was  built  by  the* 
grandfather  of  the  last  Peshwa,  and  was- 
a  grand  building,  till  burnt  down  in' 
1827.     Only  the  massive  walls  remain. 

In  front  is  an  open  space  where  a' 
vegetable  market  is  held.  About  110 
yds.  to  the  N.  is  a  stone  bridge,  over 
which  a  road  leads  to  the  village  of 
Bamburda  and  the  Sangam.  The  doors 
are  very  large,  and  covered  with  iron 
spikes.  Above  the  gateway  is  a  small 
balcony  supported  on  pillars.  Here  i» 
the  terrace  from  which,  in  1795,  the 
young  Peshwa,  Mhadu  Rao,  threw 
himself,  and  died  two  days  afterwards 
of  the  injuries  he  received  in  the  fall. 
Here,  too,  in  1773,  Narayan  Rao,  at 
the  age  of  eighteen,  after  he  had  been 
but  nine  months  Peshwa,  was  savagely 
murdered  by  two  of  his  guard. 

Not  far  from,  this  castle  is  a  street 
in  which,  under  the  Peshwas,  offenders 
were  executed  by  being  trampled  to 
death  by  elephants.  One  of  the  most 
memorable  of  these  executions,  on 
account  of  the  princely  rank  of  the 
sufferer,  was  that  of  Wittoji  Holkar, 
brother  of  that  Jeswant  Rao  Holkar 
who,  the  same  year,  won  the  battle  of 
Poona.  The  last  of  the  Peshwas,  Baji 
Rao,  beheld  the  agonies  of  the  victim 
from  a  window  of  his  palace,  where, 
on  the  morning  of  the  Ist  of  April 
1800,  he  took  his  seat  with  his  favourite 
Balaji  Kunjar  in  order  to  glut  his 
eyes  with  the  revolting  sight. 

In  the  Budhwar  or  "Wednesday" 
quarter  of  the  city  are  some  old  Maratha 
palaces,  and  the  quondam  residence  of 
Nana  Farnavis,  a  shabby  mansion  with 
a  small  court-yard  and  fountain  and 
many  small  dark  rooms  and  dingy  pass- 
ages. On  the  outskirts  of  the  town 
is  a  very  large  Jain  temple  with 
Chinese-looking  ornaments. 


388 


ROUTE  24.   BOHBAT  TO  MADRAS 


ParbalL— A  visit  to  Parbati  should 
not  be  omitted.  The  hill,  with  its 
temples,  is  situated  at  the  extreme 
fikW.  of  the  town,  the  road  to  Sinhgarh 
passes  a  little  to  the  N.  of  it,  and  the 
Mira  Baghy  or  ''Diamond  Garden," 
is  passed  on  the  road.  In  a  cemetery 
here,  very  well  kept  and  shaded  with 
trees,  is  interred  thd  celebrated  African 
trayeller  Sir  William  Comwallis  Harris, 
Migor  in  the  Bombay  Engineers,  who 
died  in  1848.^  The  Hira  Bagh,  with 
its  lake  and  island,  and  the  villa  of 
the  Poshwas,  mosque,  and  temples, 
is  a  charming  place.  Lord  Valentia 
mentions  it  in  his  account  of  a  visit  to 
the  Peshwa  in  1804.  The  temple  at 
Parbati  was  built  by  the  Peshwa  Bal^ji 
Baji  Rao,  who  reigned  from  1740  to 
1761,  but  in  honour,  it  is  said,  of  the 
Bigah  of  Satara.  On  leaving  the  road 
it  is  necessary  before  commencing  the 
ascent  of  the  hill  to  walk  across  to  the 
£.  side  of  the  Khadakwasla  Canal,  which 
comes  from  the  great  reservoir  10  m. 
to  the  S.  of  Poona.  A  long  succession 
of  steps  and  ramps  leads  up  to  the  top 
of  the  hill  and  to  the  temples.  At  each 
oomer  of  the  first  court  are  small  shrines 
to  Surva,  "the  Sun,"  Vishnu,  Karti- 
keya,  the  Hindu  Mars,  and  Durga ;  and 
in  the  centre  is  the  principal  temple 
dedicated  to  the  goddess  Durga  or 
Parbati,  the  wife  of  Shiva,  so  called 
from  Parvat,  "a  mountain."  She  is 
said  to  be  the  daughter  of  the  Hima- 
laya. In  the  temple  is  a  silver  image  of 
Shiva,  with  images  of  Parbati  and 
Ganesh,  said  to  be  of  gold,  seated  on 
his  knees.  The  temple  was  built  in 
1749,  and  cost  £100,000.  During  the 
Diwali  the  temple  is  lighted  up  in  a 
beautiful  manner.  On  the  N.W.  side 
of  the  enclosing  wall  is  a  picturesque 
Mooiish-looking  window,  whence  it  is 
said  Baji  Rao  watched  the  defeat  of  his 
troops  at  Kirkee.  From  the  top  of 
this  wall,  reached  by  narrow  steps,  there 
is  an  extensive  view  over  Poona,  Kirkee, 
and  surrounding  country,  including 
Parbati  Tank  to  the  E.,  and  Parbati 
village  S.  of  the  tank  over  the  Hira 
Bagh  to  St.  Mary's  Church  and  the 
Jews'  Synagogue  far  to  the  N.E.    To 

1  He  was  the  anthor  of  Wild  Sports  in  (he 
"^«t,  and  the  Highlands  c/  Ethiopia. 


the  S.W.   is  a  mined  palace  of  I 
Peshwas,  which  was  struck  by  lighti' 
in  1817,  the  year  of  Baji  Bao's  o 
throw  by  the  British.    The  Bn' 
who  shows  the  place  will  ezi 
donation  of  1  r.  or  so  for  the  I 
of  the  temple  and  the  numerous  I 
persons  who  frequent  the  hill    AttI 
foot  of  the  hiU  is  a  square  field,  whi 
in  the  time  of  the  Peshwas  was  ( 
closed  by  high  brick  walls.    Here  i 
the  end  of  the  rains,  about  the  1 
of  the  Dasahra,  gifts  in  money  i 
presented  to  all  firahmans.    Inord 
to  prevent  the  holy  men  from  i 
more  than  their  share,  they  were  i 
into  this  enclosure,  at  the  gate  of  whi 
stood  a  vast  cauldron  filled  with  i 
pigment.      Each  as   he  entered 
marked  with  this,  and  nothing 
given  till  all  had  gone  in.    They  ? 
then  let  out  one  by  one,  and  3,  4,  ( 
rs.  were  given  to  each.     On  one  < 
sion  the  Peshwa  is  said  to  have  Isvj 
£60,000  in  this  manner.    There 
several  other  temples  and  shrines  I 
the  top  of  the  hill. 

[15  m.  S.W.  from  Poona  is  Sia 
a  place  very  famous  in  Maratha  a 
and  very  interesting  on  account  of  i 
scenery  as  well  as  historic  recollectioo^ 
It  is  thus  described  by  Grant  Duff,  vol.  I* 
p.  241,  where  he  speaks  of  its  astOQ; 
ishing  capture  by  the  renowned  Tanaii 
Malusro,  m  February  1670;  "Sinhgarh 
is  situated  on  the  E.  side  of  the  great 
Sahyadri  range,  near  the  point  at  woich 
the  Purandar  Hills  branch  off  into  the 
Deccan.  With  these  hills  it  communi- 
cates only  on  the  E.  and  W.  by  very  high 
narrow  ndges,  while  on  the  S.  and  K. 
it  has  the  appearance  of  a  ragged  iso- 
lated mountain,  with  an  ascent  of  \ 
m..  in  many  parts  nearly  perpendi- 
cular. After  arriving  at  this  hei^lit 
there  is  an  immense  craggy  precipice 
of  black  rock  upwards  of  40  ft. 
high,  and  surmounting  the  whole  is  a 
strong  stone  wall  with  towers.  The 
fort  is  of  an  irregular  shape;  the 
exterior  presents  on  all  sides  the 
stupendous  barrier  already  mentioned, 
so  that,  except  by  the  gates,  entrance 
seems  irapossiole.  From  the  summit, 
when  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  is  seeo 


BOUTi:  24.      FOONA 


329 


)  tlie  E.  the  narrow  and  beautiful 
alley  of  the  Nira  ;  to  the  N.  a  great 
lain,  in  the  forepart  of  which  Poona, 
here  Shivaji  passed  his  youth,  is  a 
snspicuous  object.  To  the  S.  and  W. 
ppear  boundless  masses  of  mountains 
»t  in  the  blue  clouds,  or  mingled  by 
istance  with  the  sky.  In  that  quarter 
ies  Raigarh,  from  which  place,  directed 
y  Tauaji  Malusre,  the  thousand  Ma- 
?alis,  prepared  for  the  attempt  on 
linhgani,  set  out  by  different  paths, 
nown  only  to  themselves,  which  led 
hem  to  unite  near  the  fortress,  accord- 
Dg  to  the  words  of  the  Maratha  MS. , 
on  the  ninth  night  of  the  dark  half 
>f  the  moon,  in  the  month  Magh.' 
i*anaji  divided  his  men ;  one  half  re- 
oained  at  a  little  distance,  with  orders 

0  advance  if  necessary,  and  the  other 
lalf  lodged  themselves  undiscovered  at 
;he  foot  of  the  rock.  Choosing  a  part 
nost  difficult  of  access,  as  being  the 
east  liable  to  discovery,  one  of  their 
lumber  mounted  the  rock  and  made 
liut  a  ladder  of  ropes,  by  which  they 
iscended  one  by  one  and  lay  down  as 
;hey  gained  the  inside.  Scarce  800 
lad  entered  the  fort  when  something 
}ceasioned  an  alarm  among  the  garri- 
son that  attracted  their  attention  to  the 
quarter  by  which  the  Mawalis  were 
ucending.  A  man  advanced  to  ascer- 
tain what  was  the  matter.  A  deadly 
irrow  from  a  bowman  silently  answered 
bis  inquiries ;  but  a  noise  of  voices  and 

1  running  to  arms  induced  Tanaji  to 
push  forward,  in  hopes  of  still  surpris- 
tng  them.  The  bowmen  plied  their 
urows  in  the  direction  of  the  voices, 
till  a  blaze  of  blue  lights  and  a  number 
of  torches  kindled  by  the  garrison 
showed  the  Rajputs  armed  or  arming, 
and  discovered  their  assailants.  A 
desperate  conflict  ensued.  The  Ma- 
yraha,  though  thus  prematurely  dis- 
covered, and  opposed  by  very  superior 
aumbers,  were  gaining  ground  when 
Tanaji  Malusre  fell.  They  then  lost 
confidence,  and  were  running  to  the 
place  where  they  had  escaladed ;  but 
by  that  time  the  reserve,  led  by  Tanaji's 
brother,  Suryaji,  had  entered.  On 
learning  what  had  happened,  Suryaji 
rallied  the  fugitives,  asked  *Who 
unongst  them  would  leave  their  father's 


(commander's)  remains  to  be  tossed  into 
a  pit  by  Mahars  ? '  told  them  the  ropes 
were  destroyed,  and  now  was  the  time 
to  prove  themselves  Shivaji's  Mawalis. 
This  address,  the  loss  of  Tanaji,  the 
arrival  of  their  companions,  and  the 
presence  of  a  leader,  made  them  turn 
with  a  resolution  which  nothing  could 
withstand.  *  Har  !  Har !  Maha  Deo  1 ' 
their  usual  cry  on  desperate  onsets, 
resounded  as  they  closed,  and  they 
soon  found  themselves  in  possession  of 
the  fort.  Their  total  loss  was  esti- 
mated at  one-third  their  number,  or 
upwards  of  300  killed  or  disabled.  In 
the  morning  600  gallant  Rajputs,  to- 
ffether  with  their  commander,  were 
found  dead  or  wounded  ;  a  few  had  con- 
cealed themselves  and  submitted  ;  but 
several  hundreds  had  chosen  the  des- 
perate alternative  of  venturing  over 
the  rock,  and  many  were  dashed  to 
pieces  in  the  attempt.  The  precon- 
certed signal  of  success  was  setting  on 
fire  a  thatched  house  in  the  fort,  a 
joyful  intimation  to  Shivaji." 

On  the  1st  of  March  1818  Sinhgarh 
was  taken  by  the  English  without  loss. 
The  garrison,  1100  men,  of  whom  400 
were  Arabs,  capitulated,  after  being 
shelled  for  three  days,  in  which  time 
1400  shells  and  upwards  of  2000  shot 
were  fired  into  the  place.  The  ascent 
to  Sinhgarh  is  in  part  almost  perpen- 
dicular.  Being  4162  ft.  above  the  sea, 
it  is  delightfully  cool,  and  the  views 
are  beautifuL  There  are  several  bunga- 
lows here  usually  occupied  by  Euro- 
peans in  summer. 

Hie  Journey, — Leave  Poona  very 
early,  in  order  to  reach  Sinhgarh  before 
the  heat  becomes  excessive.  Parbati 
will  be  reached  in  half  an  hour,  and 
horses  are  changed  after  the  first  hour. 

Between  the  tenth  and  eleventh  mile 
the  Lobkeof  Khadakwasla  (or  Lake  Fife) 
is  reached.  The  word  signifies  "  stone 
junction,"  from  Khadak^  *'  a  rock,"  and 
Waslay  "  a  junction."  It  is  8  m.  long, 
formed  by  a  grand  stone  embankment, 
1  m.  long,  thrown  across  a  stream,  and 
supplies  Poona  with  water  and  also  two 
irrigation  canals.  There  is  some 
shooting  about  this  spot.  At  the  foot 
of  the  Sinhgarh  Mountain,  H  m>i  the 
carriage  is  exchanged  for  a  pony,  or  a 


330 


tioutK  24.    BoifbAlr  lo  Madras 


tfJk 


chair,  in  which  the  active  people  of 
the  locality  will  carry  the  traTeller  to 
the  summit  of  the  raoimtain  by  a 
»gzag  path  2^  m.  long.  After  Teaching 
the  scarp  of  the  hill,  you  imub  through 
three  gateways  into  the  mrt,  the  area 
inside  being  about  40  acres.  Not  far 
from  the  gateway  are  stables  hewn  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  and  used  by  the 
Maratha  freebooters  in  Shiyaji's  time. 
About  i  m.  from  the  gateway  to  the  £. 
is  a  temple  to  Ram  fiaja,  and  near  it 
are  wells  and  a  tank  hewn  out  of  the 
solid  rock.] 

[Puraadliar  is  a  strong  hill-fort  to 
the  S.E.,  about  17  m.  as  the  crow  flies, 
and  24  m.  from  Poona.  The  upper  and 
lower  forts  are  situated  more  tiian  300 
ft  below  the  summit,  which  is  4560  ft 
above  sea-level,  and  are  protected  by  a 
perpendicular  scarp.  In  March  1818 
Punndhar  was  attacked  and  taken  by 
the  English  column  under  General 
Pritxler  (Blacker's  Mcaraiha  War,  p. 
241).  Pnrandhar  is  used  as  a  con- 
valescent depdt  for  troops.  There  is  a 
D.B.  there.  The  sportsman  may  find 
panthers  in  the  hills,  and  deer  and 
other  game  in  the  neighbourhood.] 

167  m.  Dhflnd  juoc.  sta.  (B.) 
[From  this  place  the  Dhond  Mun- 
mar  State  Bailway  runs  N.  joining 
the  N.K  branch  of  the  6.I.P.  Bail- 
way  at  the  latter  place  (see  Rte.  1). 
It  is  by  this  short  line  that  the  mails 
between  N.  and  S.  India  pass.  The 
only  place  of  importance  on  this  line 
is,  51  m.,  Ahmednagar  sta.  (£.)  D.B. 
(pop.  over  40,000),  the  third  city  of  the 
Deocan,  covering  S  sq.  m.,  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Siva,  and  founded  in  1494 
by  Ahmad  Nizam  Shah  Bahri,  son  of 
a  Brahman  of  Yijayanagar,  the  first 
of  a  Mohammedan  dynasty.  His  terri- 
tory was  the  only  part  of  the  W.  coast 
to  which  the  ravages  of  Portuguese 
piracy  did  not  extend.  They  main- 
tained a  friendly  intercourse  for  many 
years  with  Ahmednagar.  The  power 
of  that  state  extended  over  the  greater 
part  of  I^rar  and  the  province  of  Au- 
rangabad  and  some  districts  in  Khan- 
deah,  Kalyan,  and  from  Bankot  to 
»-—''«  in  the  Konkan.     The  Fort  fell 


into  Akbar's  hands  in  1605,  after  m 
taining  a  celebrated  siege  under  Gfasii 
Bibi,  widow  of  'Ali  Adil  Shah,  i 
Bijapnr.  (The  "Noble  Queen"  ( 
Meadows  Taylor's  novel.)  Itwastakl 
from  the  Nizam  by  the  Marathasi 
1760,  after  desperate  fighting.  In  l9t 
the  fort  was  made  ov«r  to  Sindial 
the  Peshwa,  from  whom  it  was  tald 
by  General  Wellesley,  afterwards  Dd 
of  Wellington,  on  the  12th  of  Aiig« 
1803.  A  tamarind  tree,  under  wlili 
the  Duke  of  Wellington  is  said  to  luM 
lunched,  is  pointed  out  on  the  S.1 
side  of  tiie  Fort 

TheFort  is  in  theoentre  of  the  cantn 
ment,  2\  m.  N.E.  of  the  rly.  sta.   da 
to  it  are  Chriti  Ckwrch  and  a  £.( 
Churoh.    The  Soiopean  Barrada  t 
1  m.  S.E.  <^it,  and  the  N.I.  linestf 
D.B.  are  N.W.  of  it.    The  gate  of  H 
Fort  towards  the  Poona  road  is  calli 
the  MaUe  Darwazah  ;  and  just  oatsii 
it  are  the  graves  of  two  British  offies 
who  fell   here  when    the    place  « 
stormed  in  1803.    The  town  thoa| 
flourishing  and  wi^  good  bazaars  a 
now  no  architectural  interest    Ahmdl 
nagar  is  an  important  station  of  tibi 
S.P.6.,   and  of  the  Ladia*  ^mwif- 
ftoR,  with  large  schools  and  brBnckl 
missions  in  several  villages  in  the  di^ 
trict    2  m.  from  the  Fort  is  the  Fin 
Bagh,  or  "  fidry  garden,"  an  old  palMl 
of  the  Nagar  kings,  which  has  nothiif 
attractive  beyoM   historical 
tions. 

The  principal  si^tnear  Ahini 
is  the  Tomb  of  Salalwit  Khan  or 
Bibi  (for  it  is  doubtful  to  which  tf 
these  two  personages  it  belongs),  6  n. 
to  S.  on  a  hill  3080  ft  The  bmldiag 
is  octagonal,  three  stories  high;  fine 
view.  Below  is  the  crypt,  iu  which  irt 
two  tombs,  one  of  which  has  a  smaBff 
tombstone  on  the  top  of  the  otfaff. 
There  is  no  inscription.  The  fini 
story  is  used  as  an  infirmary.  To  tkf 
E.  bv  N.  is  a  very  large  tank  To  th6 
N.N.W.  is  Dongar  Gan,  12  m.  0(5 
where  there  is  a  bungalow,  which  v«i 
a  hunting-seat  of  the  old  kings,  sod  is 
now  a  place  to  which  the  English  fros 
Nagar  go  for  picnics.] 

184  m.    Diknl    sta.  a  small  vl 


ttOtlTE  24.      KftM — SHOLAJPUR 


3S1 


Age.     2  m.  beyond  Diksal  the  Bhima 
•iver  is  crossed. 

223  m.  Kent  sta.,  is  a  large  and 
lourishing  village,  the  largest  place 
between  Foona  and  Sholapur. 

234  m.  Band  Boad  sta.  This  is  the 
itation  from  which  travellers  who 
[jQtend  to  visit  Pandharpur  turn  off  to 
the  S.  (30  m.  hj  road). 

262  m.  Mohol,  sta  24  m.  from 
Piandharpur. 

pPandharpur  (pop.  17,000),  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Bhima  river,  where 
is  a  very  celebrated  shrine  to  Witthoba, 
or  Withthal.     The  temple  is  said  to 
have  been  built  in  80  A.D.,  and  was 
rented  by  certain  Brahmans  till  1081, 
then  by  Badwars,  who  stUl  take  charge 
of  it.     The  first  chamber  in  the  temple 
ia  a  room  40  ft.  sq.  with  pillars,  and 
without  windows  and  ventilation.    The 
second  pillar  on  the  left  is  covered  with 
silver  plates,  and  pilgrims  embrace  it. 
The  idol  chamber  is  8  ft.  sq.,  and  the 
idol  is  very  grotesque,  and  wears  a  high 
cap.     Immense  crowds  of  pilgrims  visit 
this  temple  at  certain  times,  particu- 
larly in  July  and  October,  and  suffer 
greatly  from  the  crush  and  the  want  of 
ventilation.     The  scene  on  the  Bhima 
river  at  the  time  of  the  pilgiimage  is 
most  animated  and  interesting.     28  m. 
£.  is  the  beautiful  unfinished  temple 
at  Y^jayanagar  (Rte.  26),  said  to  have 
been  built  for  the  reception  of  this 
idol,  which  however,  refused  to  move. 
The  legend  is  that  a  Brahman  named 
Pandem,  going  on  a   pilgrimage    to 
Benares,   neglected    his    parents   and 
stopped   in    a    Brahman  s    house    at 
Panaharpur,  and  saw  Ganga,  Yamuna, 
and  Saraswati  acting  as  handmaids  to 
his  host  on  account  of  his  filial  piety. 
Pandelli  then  gave  up  his  pilgrimage 
to    Benares,   stopped  at  Panaharpur, 
and  treated  his   parents  with   great 
respect  and  honour,  whereupon  Vishnu 
became    incarnate    in    him    as    Wit- 
thoba.] 

283  m.  Sholapnr  sta.  (D.B.),  (pop. 
62,000),  capital  of  a  collectorate,  and 
formerly  protected  by  a  small  but 
strong  fort,  now  in  a  ruined  state. 
The  Fort  is  1^  m.  N.E.  of  the  town, 


and  is  built  on  level  ground,  with  a 
very  slight  fall  to  the  N.  The  ram- 
parts are  of  mud,  with  a  fausse-braie. 
The  outer  wall  has  battlemented  cur- 
tains and  4  inner  and  28  side  towers. 
There  is  a  moat  on  N.W.  and  S.  sides. 
The  Tank  of  Sadeshwa  is  to  the  £. 
The  first  gate  is  called  the  Ehata 
Darwazah  or  Spike  Gate,  from  the 
iron  spikes  on  the  huge  massive 
wooden  doors.  They  were  to  keep 
off  elephants,  which  used  to  be  trainea 
to  break  in  gates  by  pushing  with  their 
foreheads.  It  has  an  uninteresting 
Persian  inscription,  with  a  date  corre- 
sponding to  1810  A.D.  In  the  revet- 
ments are  many  stones  taken  from 
Hindu  temples,  on  which  figures  of 
Vishnu,  Mahadeo,  and  of  elephants  and 
peacocks  are  seen. 

There  is  in  the  city,  which  lies  N. 
and  £.  of  the  Fort,  a  good  High  School 
for  boys,  and  a  school  for  girls,  which 
may  be  visited  by  those  interested  in 
educational  matters.  The  cantonment 
lay  S.£.  of  the  railway  station,  and 
there  was  once  a  strong  force  here, 
but  the  troops  have  been  withdrawn. 
In  April  1818  General  Munro  marched 
against  a  body  of  Baji  Rao's  infantry, 
4500  in  number,  with  13  guns,  attacked 
them  under  the  walls  of  Sholapur, 
and  routed  them  with  great  slaughter. 
The  Fort,  after  a  short  siege,  sur- 
rendered (Grant  Duflf,  vol.  iii.  p.  484). 
There  is  a  fine  cottonmill  at  Snolapur, 
near  the  Police  Station  and  the  Kail- 
way.     It  is  worth  a  visit. 

At  about  8  m.  N.  of  the  city  of 
Sholapur  is  the  Ekrukh  Tank,  6  m. 
in  length,  formed  by  a  modern  embank- 
ment of  earth  and  rough  stones  1)  m^ 
long  which  has  been  caiTied  across  the 
Adhin  river.  Three  canals  irrigate 
the  surrounding  country.  The  High- 
level  Canal  on  the  left  bank  waters  863 
acres.  The  Low -level  Canal  waters 
10,601  acres.  The  High-level  waters 
567  acres.  The  greatest  height  of 
the  embankment  is  72 J  ft.,  and  the 
greatest  depth  of  water  60  ft.  But  for 
this  lake,  the  whole  district  near, 
and  even  the  city  of  Sholapur  itself, 
would  be  deserted  during  a  famine. 
The  lake  was  constructed  as  a  Famin^-\ 
Work  in  1878-80.  X 


BOUTB  24.       BOMBAY  TO  MADRAS 


Ifl/^ 


The  WtUerworks  were  built  in 
1881,  at  a  cost  of  2^  lakhs  of  rupees, 
by  the  Municipality,  and  give  a 
daily  supply  of  6  gallons  a  head. 

Moli  Bagh  Tank  is  prettily  situated 
close  to  the  rly.  crossing  on  the  Bija- 
pur  road,  and  fringed  on  one  side  by 
a  magnificent  growth  of  babul  trees, 
A  yery  pleasant  row  or  sail  can  be  had 
in  the  boats  belonging  to  the  Sholapur 
club ;  and  the  spot  ufords  a  pleasant 
retreat  on  a  sultiy  evening. 

292  m.  Hotgi  juno.  sta.  (R.),  9  m. 
S.E.  of  Sholapur.  From  this  point 
the  Southern  Mahratta  Railway  runs 
S.  to  JB^apw  and  Gadag  junc.  (see 
Rte.  23). 

853  m.  Kulbarga  sta.  D.B.  The 
place  was  abandoned  as  the  seat  of  the 
beocan  Government  in  1635  in  favour 
of  Bedar.  It  is  situated  in  an  undulat- 
ing nlain,  a  somewhat  dreary  expanse 
of  black  soil,  relieved  by  outcrops  of 
limestone  and  thriving  young  planta- 
tions of  trees.  Houses  for  the  Nizam's 
officers,  who  command  the  troops  here, 
and  handsome  buildings  for  a  few 
public  offices  are  erected  on  the  Maidan, 
which  stretches  away  from  the  railway 
station  to  thexity.  The  Old  Fort  in 
the  background,  black  with  age,  and 
the  numerous  domes  with  which  the 
plain  is  dotted,  also  help  to  relieve 
the  generally  monotonous  aspect.  The 
first  object  which  attracts  attention  is 
a  large  domed  tomb,  the  sepulchre  of 
one  of  the  former  rulers  of  the  place, 
but  now  used  as  a  Besidmce  by  the 
Ezecutiye  Engineer.  A  fine  public 
garden  is  then  passed  ;  and  nearer  the 
town,  new  builaings  on  all  sides  bear 
testimony  to  the  reviving  prosperity 
of  the  placed  The  town  u  entered  by 
a  handsome  gateway. 

The  outer  walls  and  gateways  and 
most  of  the  old  buildings  of  the  Fort 
are  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition. 
The  Citadel  or  Bala  Hisar  has  suffered 
least.  On  the  top  of  it  is  a  curious  old 
gun,  26  ft.  long,  and  having  twenty 
pairs  of  iron  rings  attached  to  it,  by 
which  it  used  probably  to  be  slung  or 
Jifted.     Close   by   i«  »n   old    Hindu 


temple  which  has  been  converted  into 
a  mosque. 

In  the  old  Fort  is  the  Jnnimallii^ 
one  of  the  finest  old  Pathan  mosquM 
in  India,  built  in  the  reign  of  Feioi 
Shah,  and  modelled  after  the  greit 
mosque  of  Cordova  in  Spain.  Aooord- 
ing  to  Fergusson,  it  measures  216  ft  & 
and  W.,  and  176  ft.  N.  and  S.,  and 
consequently  covers  an  area  of  88,016 

S[.  ft  Its  great  peculiarity  is  that 
one  of  all  the  great  mosques  of  India 
the  whole  area  is  covered  in.  There  u 
therefore  no  court,  and  the  solid  roof 
affords  protection  from  the  son  to  ail 
worshippers,  while  the  light  is  admitted 
through  the  side  walb,  which  an 
pierced  with  great  arches  on  all  sidflB 
except  the  W.  This  arrangement  it 
so  good  both  for  convenience  and 
architectural  effect  that  it  is  difficult 
to  understand  why  it  was  never  after- 
wards repeated.  It  stands  in  seeniingly 
good  repair  after  four  centuries  of 
neglect,  and  owes  its  greatness  solelf 
to  its  own  original  merit  of  design. 

The  JaU  is  the  model  institution  of 
the  sort  for  H.H.  tlfe  Nizam's  Do- 
minions. It  is  said  to  be  exceedb|^7 
well  managed  and  to  be  worth  a  vint 

The  TalvJcdcur*8  Court,  the  JudM 
Offices,  and  the  Treasury  of  Kalbaiy 
are  located  in  the  grand  old  Tombs  m 
the  eastern  quarter  of  the  town.  Theae 
tombs  are  huge  square  buildines  sur- 
mounted by  domes,  and  are  the  bniial- 
places  of  the  kings  who  reigned  hen  at 
the  end  of  the  14th  century.  Thw 
are  roughly  yet  strongly  built,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  some  handsoma 
stone  tracery,  which  has  unfortunately 
been  whitewashed,  none  of  them  con- 
tain exterior  ornaments  of  any  kind. 
The  Interiors  are  more  elaboFately 
finished. 

Some  little  distance  from  these 
tombs  is  the  shrine  or  Dargdh  of  Bania 
Nawaz,  or  Gisu  Daraz,  a  celebrated 
Mohammedan  saint  (of  the  Ghisti 
family),  who  came  to  Kulbaiga  during 
the  reign  of  Feroz  Shah  in  1418. 
The  present  structure  is  said  to  hun 
been  erected  in  1640  by  one  of  hi* 
descendants  during  the  reign  of  M- 
mud  'Adil  Shah.    Shah  WaU,  Fam 


BOUm  24.      SHAHABAD — BAIOHUB 


333 


Shah's  brother,  made  many  valuable 

E resents  to  the  saiad,  and  gave  him 
iTg^jagirs,  and  built  him  a  magnifi- 
cent college  dose  to  the  city.  Some  of 
his  descendants  still  reside  at  his  tomb. 
The  shrine  is  much  venerated  by  Mo- 
hammedans in  this  part  of  India,  and 
none  but  true  believers  are  admitted 
inside  its  portals.  Close  by  are  some 
buildings,  consistingof  a  sarai,  mosque, 
and  college  (Madrassa),  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  Aurangzib,  who  visited 
Ealbarga  on  several  occasions.  Some 
distance  from  the  tomb  of  Banda  Nawaz 
is  the  Shrine  of  Rvhimu-d-din  another 
Mohammedan  saint,  who  resided  here 
at  the  same  time  as  Banda  Nawaz  ;  be- 
yond this  again  is  the  Shrine  ofSiraju- 
d-din,  who  preceded  the  otber  saints  at 
the  court  of  the  Bahmani  kings.  An- 
other remarkable  tomb  is  the  C%or 
Gtmbaz  (** thief s  dome"),  W.  of  the 
city,  which  is  said  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  having  been  for  many  years 
the  haunt  of  a  robber,  who  used  to 
deposit  all  his  plunder  here. 

In  the  town  is  a  Bazaar  870  ft  x  60 
ft.,  adorned  by  a  row  of  61  Hindu 
arches,  with  a  very  ornamental  block  of 
buildings  at  either  end. 

870  m.  Shahabad  sta.  (R.)  Known 
for  its  limestone  quarries.  Large 
quantities  of  the  stone  are  exported. 

876  m.  Wadl  June.  sta.  (R.)  From 
here  the  Nizam*s  State  Railway  runs  E. 
to  Hyderabad  (see  Rte.  25).  Passengers 
for  the  Nizam's  railway  change  car- 
riages. There  is  here  4  rest-camp  for 
troops  en  route  between  the  Madras 
Presidency  and  Bombay. 

885  m.  Nalwar  sta.  The  shooting 
in  this  neighbourhood  is  good  both  for 
large  and  small  game. 

427  m.  Krishna  sta.  Here  the  rail- 
way crosses  the  Eistna  river  by  a  grand 
bridge  8854  ft.  long. 

443  m.  Baichnr  sta.  (R.)  At  this 
point  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Rail- 
way and  the  Madras  Railway  meet. 
Madras  is  distant  850  m. 

Eaichur  formed  part  of  the  dominions 


of  the  Bahmani  kings  in  1857.  It  was 
included  in  the  government  of  Bijapur 
(see  Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.  p.  66),  and  was 

g)vemed  in  1478  by  Ehwajah  Jehan 
awan.  When  Bijapur  became  an  in- 
dependent kingdom,  Raichur  was  its 
S.  capital.  The  Fort  is  about  IJ  m. 
from  the  railway  station.  The  N.  gate, 
flanked  by  towers,  is  best  worth  atten- 
tion. There  is  a  stone  elephant  not 
quite  the  natural  size  carved  out  of  a 
boulder  about  50  yds.  outside  the  gate, 
At  right  angles  to  this  gate  is  another 
called  the  Easbah  Darwazah.  Outside 
this  gate  is  the  door  of  a  tunnel  out  of 
which  the  garrison  came  to  close  the 
gate,  and  then  retired  by  the  under- 
ground passage  into  the  Fort.  The 
W.  gate  is  called  the  Sikandariyah, 
and  near  it  is  the  old  palace,  with 
immensely  thick  walls,  now  a  jail. 

The  Oitadel  ought  to  be  seen  for  the  ■ 
sake  of  the  fine  view,  extending  as  far 
as  the  Tungabhadra  river,  16  m.  to  the 
S.,  and  the  Erishna,  12  m.  to  the  N. 
The  ascent  commences  from  near  the 
N.  g^te.  The  hill  on  which  it  is  built 
consists  of  immense  boulders  of  rock, 
and  is  over  290  ft.  high.  The  .path  up 
is  broken  and  unsafe  after  dark.  On 
the  left  is  a  row  of  cells  belonging  to 
the  dargahy  or  shrine,  and  at  the  £. 
end,  overhanging  the#  precipice,  is  a 
stone  pavilion.  Near  this  on  the  £. 
is  a  mosque  18  ft.  high  ;  and  on  the  S. 
side  is  a  place  for  a  bell  or  gong  7  ft., 
high,  with  stone  supports  and  a  stone 
roof.  The  whole  surface  of  the  top 
is  70  ft.  square.  The  town  is  to  the 
E.  of  the  Fort. 

486  m.  Adoni  sta.  (pop.  22,500). 
This  is  one  of  the  principal  cotton- 
marts  in  the  Deccan.  The  town  is 
of  some  historical  interest.  Accord- 
ing to  tradition,  it  was  founded  8000 
years  ago  by  Chandra  Sing  of  Bedar. 
After  the  battle  of  Telikot  in  1554, 
the  Sultan  of  Bijapur  appointed  Malik 
Rahman  Ehan,  an  Abyssinian,  to 
govern  it,  which  he  did  for  89  years, 
and  died  there.  His  tomb  on  the 
Talibanda  hill  is  still  an  object  of 
religious  veneration.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  adopted  son  Sidi  Mas'aud 
Ehan,  who  built  the  lower  fort,  and  thA 


a&i 


sonra  S4.    wnBhJ  to  iuj>ba» 


Jwfii 


iB«  JamnM  Mu^id.  In  1690  Adoni 
wia  tiken,  after  a  desperate  reeiat- 
aace,  hj  one  of  Anrangnb's  generals, 
and  afterwards  fell  to  the  Nizam. 
Salabat  Jang  granted  it  in  jagir  to 
Bazalat  Jang,  his  younger  brotiier,  who 
made  it  his  capital,  and  endeavoured  to 
form  an  independent  state.  He  died 
in  1782,  and  was  bniied  at  Adoni,  and 
a  fine  mosque  and  tomb  were  erected 
oyer  his  graye  and  that  of  his  mother. 
Qoyemment  grant  1200  rs.  yearly  for 
^e  support  of  these  buildings  and  the 
charities  connected  with  them,  but  the 
edifice  has  gone  sadly  to  decay.  In 
1786  the  citadel  was  captured  by  Tipu 
after  one  month's  siege.  He  demol- 
ished the  fortifications,  and  removed 
the  guns  and  stores  to  Gooty.  In  1792 
it  was  restored  to  the  Nizam,  and  ex- 
changed by  him  with  the  British  in 
1799  A.D.  for  other  places.  The  citadel 
is  built  on  five  hills,  of  which  the  best 
known  are  the  Barakila  and  the  Tali- 
banda,  both  of  which  rise  800  ft.  above 
the  plain.  Half-way  up  the  rook  is  a 
fine  tank  containing  good  water,  and 
never  dry. 

618  m.  Gvntakal  junc  sta.  (R.) 
From  this  junc.  the  line  runs  N.W. 
to  Bombay,  S.E.  to  Madras,  S.  to 
Bangalore,  N.E.  to  Bezwada,  Vizaga- 
patam,  Yizianagram  (on  the  way  to 
Cuttack),  and  W.  to  Bellary,  Hospet 
(for  Yijayanagar),  and  Goa. 

636  m.  Gk>oty  sta.  (R. )  Nearly  2  m.  S. 
of  the  railway  station  is  an  interesting 
old  hill-fort.  It  was  taken  by  Hyder 
'Ali  in  1776  after  a  sieee  of  nine  months. 
The  water  failed,  and  the  garrison  were 
forced  by  thirst  to  surrender.  The 
fort  is  950  ft  above  the  plain,  and  2000 
ft.  above  the  sea.  Sir  Thos.  Munro 
was  buried  at  Gooty,  but  was  subse- 
quently removed  to  Madras.  There  is 
a  monument  to  him  in  the  churchyard 
here. 

566  m.  Tadpatri  sta.  (R.)  The 
town  was  founded  during  the  time  of 
the  V^ayanagar  kings  about  1485, 
when  the  highly  decorative  temples 
were  built.    The  one  on  the  river-bank 


WM  never  finiihfld,  but  ia  tke.inoi^ 
imposing.    See  Fergusson,  pp.  375-37& 

632  m.  Cuddapah  sta.  (R.) 

710  m.  Benignnta  sta.  (R.),  junc* 
tion  of  the  Metre-gauge  State  RailmT 

(1)  N.K  to  Nellore  (see  below),  bjA 

(2)  S.  and  S.E.  to  Timpati  (see  below]^ 
Velloro  (Rte.  29),  and  Y illupuram  (Bte. 
31). 

(1)  [75  m.  NeUore  sta.  (R.)  Chief 
town  of  the  district,  stands  on  the  rt 
bank  of  the  Biver  Pennar  8  m.  from  its 
mouth  (30,000  inhab.)  Here,  in  the 
ruins  of  a  Hindu  Temple,  was  found  a 
pot  of  Hainan  gold  coins  and  medaU  of 
the  2d  cent  There  are  here  UiBiiflai 
of  the  Roman  Catholics,  Scotch  Fra 
Church,  American  Baptists,  and  Her- 
mansburg  Lutherans.] 

(2)  [8  m.  Timpati  sta., 3«cD.B.  This 
town  of  14,000  inhab.,  crowded  ataU 
times  with  pilgrims,  is  celebrated  for 
one  of  the  most  sacred  Hill  Pagodas  in 
S.  India.  It  stands  at  the  top  of  the 
**  holy  hill "  called  TirumalOf  and  is 
about  8  m.  from  the  rly.  sta.  Travellen 
must  be  wary  of  thieves,  who  are  numer- 
ous. Upon  the  hill  they  will  be  pestered 
by  mendicants.  Looking  from  the  town 
only  one  path  up  the  mil  can  be  seen 
along  which  at  intervals  are  three 
gopuras,  or  gateways,  under  which  the 
pilgrims  pass.  The  last  gopura  is  at 
the  top  of  the  hilL  On  the  other  side 
of  the  hill  there  are  paths  up,  but  all 
very  difficult.  For  some  years  the 
temple  was  under  the  management  of 
the  British  Government,  but  in  1843 
charge  of  it  was  given  over  to  a  Mahant 
or  Hindu  Abbot,  who  with  his  oo- 
authorities  controls  the  expenditare 
and  the  worship.  The  antiquity  of 
the  temple  is  indisputable,  oat  its 
origin  is  involved  in  obscurity.  The 
idol  is  an  erect  stone  figure  7  n.  high, 
with  four  arms,  representing  Yiahnn. 
No  European  ascended  the  hill  on 
which  is  Upper  Tirupatii,  that  is  the 
temple  and  its  suburbs,  till  1870,  when 
the  Superintendent  of  Police,  in  ^ite 
of  the  remonstrances  of  the  Malumt, 
went  up  in  search  of  an  escaped  foiger. 


ROUTB  24.   OHANDRA&IRI — ARKONAM 


dM 


t  is  2500  ft.  hi^h,  and  auite  bare  and 
rithont  vegetation.  Toe  N.  ascent 
D  the  Cuddapah  side  is  from  the  small 
illage  of  Balapilli,  over  hills  and 
brough  thick  jungle,  where  tigers 
td  panthers  are  not  unknown.  The 
ill  has  seven  peaks.  On  the  seventh 
eak,  Shri  Yenkataramanachellam,  is 
be  pagoda.  A  broad  belt  of  mango, 
imarind,  and  sandal  trees  surrounds 
he  temple.  There  is  a  decent  bunga- 
}v  built  on  the  top  of  the  mountain 
lir  lodging  European  visitors.  In  the 
wm  is  a  dispensary,  in  part  supported 
y  the  Mahant.  Idols  are  very  well 
irved  in  the  town,  of  brass,  or  of  red 
Food — ^the  JPterocarpits  saTUalimis.  E. 
f  the  temple  is  a  tank.  There  is  also 
Hall  of  1000  Pillars,  which  cannot 
ompare  with  that  at  Madura,  or  those 
t  Cnedambaram  or  Conjeveram.  There 
le  sixteen  waterfalls  in  various  parts 
i  the  hill.  It  is  said  that  Abbe 
)abois  was  the  first  to  visit  the  hill, 
nt  he  probably  did  not  ascend  it. 


14  m.  Chandragiri  sta.  In  the  palace 
here  the  representatives  of  the  Vijayan- 
agar  dynasty  of  the  day  (1639)  made  to 
the  E.I.  Co.  the  original  grant  of  the 
land  on  which  Fort  St.  George  (Madras) 
was  built.     The  Government  carefully 

E reserve  the  palace,  and  it  is  used  as  a 
alting-place  for  officials.  It  is  most 
pictui-esquely  situated  in  the  Fort,  and 
at  the  back  of  it  is  a  high  rocky  hill. 
After  the  defeat  of  Talikot  in  1564 
this  was  the  residence  of  the  Rajas  of 
Yijayanagar. 

78  m.  Vellore  sta.  (Rte.  29). 

272  m.  Villapnram  sta.  (Bte.  31).] 

From  Renigunta  sta.  the  line  con- 
tinues S.  E.  to 

751    m.   Arkonam  junc.   sta.   (R. ) 

The  N.W.  and  S. W.  branches  of 
the  Madras  Railway  join  at  this  point, 
and  a  branch  of  the  the  South  Indian 
Railway  runs  S.  to  Chingleput. 

793  m.  Madras. 


d3» 


MADRAS  CITT 


MADRAS   CITY* 

CONTENTS. 


PAOB 

Agrieoltare,  College  of    .  .342 

Anema SS8 

BkokTown 887 

Board  of  ReYenne  Olllces  .889 

Botanical  Gardens 841 

CathedraU— Roman  Catholic  .  .841 

St.  George's 340 

St  Thom^  (Roman  Catholic)  .  .840 
Central  Railway  Station  .  ...  842 
Chepaok  Park  and  Buildings  .       .        .839 

Christian  College  ^ 887 

Churches— Armenian      ....    841 

„       (Great  Mount) .        .    848 

Church  Mission  Chapel        ...    841 

Bmanuel 841 

Bnglish  Church  (Great  Mount)    .        .    848 

St.  Andrew's 840 

St.  Mary's 840 

St.  Matthias'  (Vepery) .       .       .       .841 

8t.Thom6 840 

Wesleyan  Chapel 841 

Civil  Engineering  College        ...    839 

Climate '   .        .887 

Connemara  Free  Libi-ary .  .841 

Fort  St  Geoige 887 

General  Hospital 888 

Governor's  Country  Hoaae      .       .        .    848 

Government  House 889 

Great  Mount 848 

Gun-carriage  Factory      ...        .841 

Harbour  Works 887 

High  Court  Buildings     ....    887 
Institutions,  Educational,  etc.— 
Agriculture,  College  of        .       .       .    842 
Civil  Engineering  College    .       .       .    339  I 


Medical  College    . 

OldCoUege   .... 

Pacheappah's  College  and  Hall 

School  of  Arts 

Teachers*  CoU^  . 

Victoria  Technical  Institute 

Island 

JaU 

Landing-place  .... 
Lighthouse       .... 
Little  Mount    .... 
Marina  (Promenade) 
Marmalong  Bridge  . 
Medical  College 
HaU. 


Ml 

m 


Memorifd 
Mount  Road 
Museum  (Arsenal)   . 

„       (Pantheon  Road) 
Observatory     .... 
OldCoUege       .... 
Pacheappah's  College  and  HaU 
People's  Park  .... 
Promenade  or  Marina 
Race-course      .... 
Saidapet  Model  Farm 
School  of  Arts  .... 
Senate  House  .... 

Sport 

Statues 91 

Suburbs    .       .  • 

TripUcane 

Veterinary  Hospital  ((Jovt.) 

Victoria  Technical  Institute 

Victoria  Town  HaU U 


On  the  first  appearance  of  the  build- 
ings of  Madras  City  from  the  sea,  the 
stranger  must  feel  surprised  how  so 
great  a  capital  should  have  grown  up 
on  such  an  exposed  coast,  with  appar- 
ently so  little  convenience  for  trade. 
But  the  whole  line  of  coast,  from  Ceylon 
to  Orissa,  has  not  one  convenient  har- 
bour ;  although  at  Yizagapatam  there 
is  a  natural  opening  which  could,  at 
considerable  expense,  be  converted  into 
a  harbour  of  some  magnitude.  Madras 
has  no  great  river  near  it  to  bring  down 
products  from  inland  regions,  the  bulk 
of  the  traffic  reaching  the  coast  by 
means  of  2  lines  of  rly.  ;  they  are 
supplemented  by  a  long  series  of  cansds 
along  the  coast,  the  line  of  which 
passes  through  the  town  S.  to  the 
South  Arcot  District,  and  N.  to  the 
Godavari,  a  length  of  250  m. 


The  city  and  its  suburbs  extend  9  bl 
along  the  coast,  covering  an  area  of  27 
sq.  m.  Pop.  in  1881,  406,000;  "^ 
1891,  450,000  ;  in  1901,  509,397. 

Landmg-plaoe. — Passengers  ani 
cargo  are  landed  or  oinbarked  in  joll) 
boats  or  masula  boats,  which  are  flit- 
bottomed  barges  constructed  of  mango 
wood,  and  sewn  together  with  cocoa-nut 
fibre.  The  landing  chaiges  an  fat 
masula  boats  2*8  rs.,  jolly  boats  Ir.; 
passengers  land  without  difficulty  at 
the  Fier,  which  is  1000  ft.  long,  and 
40  ft.  wide,  with  a  T  head. 

The   Madras   coast   is  oocasfoi 
visited  by  cyclonic  storms,  sometL 
terrific  violence.     On  Oct  3,  174(V 
days  after  the  surren  der  of  Madras  to 
French,  there  was  a  dreadful 
in  which  the  Dtic  (^Orleans, 
and  I/ys  foundered  with  upward* 


UGHTHOUBB 


2O0  men.  The  Mermaid  and  Advice^ 
rizes,  also  went  down ;  and  the  flag- 
hip  Achille  was  dismasted,  and  saved 
ritn  difficulty,  after  the  lower  guns 
ad.  been  thrown  overboard.     Out  of 

0  other  vessels  then  in  the  Madras 
Mtds  not  one  escaped.  There  have 
©eB  other  frightful  hurricanes  in 
782,  1807,  and  1811.  On  the  latter 
ocasion  the  Dover  frigate  and  Chiekester 
fcore-ship  foundered,  and  90  coasting 
vessels  went  down  at  their  anchors. 
>UTing  this  hurricane  the  surf  broke  at 
i  m.  distance  from  the  shore.  On 
fay  2,  1872  there  was  another  great 
fcorm,  in  which  the  Motspn/r  and  8 
European  vessels  and  20  native  vessels 
f  altogether  4133  tons  were  lost.  As 
he  shore  is  sandy,  stretching  in  nearly 
k  straight  line  from  N.  by  E.  to  S. 
vy  "W.  for  many  miles,  without  creek 
r  bay  or  other  natural  facility  for 
arming  a  harbour,  artificial  works  have 
lad  to  be  designed.  On  the  occasion 
>f  the  Prince  of  Wales's  visit  in  1876, 

1  memorial  stone  was  laid  commem- 
acting  the  commencement  of  the 
uirbaur  worksj  designed  by  W.  Parkes, 
i.I.C.E.,  who  had  constructed  the 
i^arachi  harbour.  The  works  were 
icarly  complete,  at  a  cost  of  5,800,000 
B.,  when  in  Nov.  1881  a  violent 
yclone  occurred  which  seriously 
njured  them,  and  breached  about  ^  m. 
tf  breakwater  out  of  a  total  of  l|  m. 
kn  amended  design  was  then  approved, 
md  the  works  have  since  been  com- 
jleted.  The  harbour  consists  of  two 
breakwaters  to  the  N.  and  S,  of  the 
>u8tom  House,  enclosing  the  pier, 
irhich  runs  out  from  tne  Custom 
House.  It  was  proved  during  the 
preat  cyclone  of  1881  that  no  harbour 
Here  can  ever  be  regarded  as  a  har- 
bour of  refuge,  and  consequently  ships 
tre  now  ordered  to  put  out  to  sea  at 
the  first  indication  of  a  cyclone.  But 
»  scheme  of  docks  to  be  constructed 
im  the  south  foreshore,  with  the  har- 
bour forming  the  entrance,  is  under 
eonsideration.  The  sand  along  the 
coast  is  unusually  flat  seawards,  reach- 
ing a  depth  of  10  fathoms  only  at  a 
^stance  of  1  m.  from  the  shore,  and  to 
this  may  be  partly  attributed  the  pecu- 
liarity of  the  Madras  surf. 

[India] 


The  wind  from  the  S.  W.  blows  from 
April  to  Oct.  and  that  from  the 
N.E.  from  Oct.  to  Ajpril.  The  S.W. 
monsoon  breezes  are  for  the  most  part 
light.  The  N.E.  monsoon  brings  the 
rainy  season  on  the  east  coast,  which 
is  from  October  to  December.  The  S.  W. 
monsoon  rains  fall  on  the  east  coast 
from  the  end  of  May  to  the  middle  of 
October.  The  average  rainfall  at* 
Madras  is  50  in. ,  nearly  half  of  which 
falls  in  November. 

November,  December,  and  January 
are  comparatively  cool,  but  there  is  no 
really  cold  weather  in  the  plains  in 
Madras.  The  rise  of  tide  does  not  ex-^ 
ceed  3  to  4  ft.,  even  at  equinoctial 
springs. 

The  Post  Office,  new  Bank  of  Madras 
building,  old  High  Court,  now  occupied 
by  the  Port  and  Customs  Offices,  and 
various  houses  of  business  extend  along 
the  shore  facing  the  harbour.  W.  of 
these  is  a  thickly  inhabited  quartei* 
chiefly  inhabited  by  natives,  and  known 
as  BlMcJe  Toum,  In  it  is  Popham's 
Broadway,  a  long  thoroughfare  contain- 
ing several  large  shops,  the  old  Bank 
of  Madras,  and  churches. 

The  old  Lighthouse,  which  still  stand» 
on  the  Esplanade,  has  been  superseded- 
by  a  tower  on  the  Sigh  Court  Build- 
ingSf  which  has  been  famished  with 
ther  latest  improved  light  apparatus. 

The  New  Law  Court  Buildings  form 
a  handsome  pile,  designed  and  erected 
in  the  Hinau-Saracenic  style,  by  J. 
W.  Brassington,  H.  Irwin,  C.LE.,.and 
J.  H.  Stephens.  They  cover  an  area 
of  100,000  sq.  ft.,  were  commenced  in 
1888,  and  the  law  courts  were  formally 
opened  in  1892.  The  arrangement  of 
the  interior  is  good,  and  the  internal 
decoration  of  wood  carving  and  painted- 
glass  is  well  worthy  of  inspection.  All 
the  materials  employed  in  the  building 
were  obtained  in  the  country.  Wert 
of  the  Law  Courts  is  the  new.  Law 
College,  a  fine  structure  in  similar  style, 
designed  by  H.  Irwin,  CLE. 

TheMadras  Christian  College  Build- 
ings, erected  at  a  cost  of  £50,000,  form 
one  of  the  finest  Colleges  in  India. 

Fort  St.  George  contains  the  Euro- « 
pean  barracks,  the  Arsenal,  St  Mary's; 
Church,  and  some  of  the  Govemmenii* 


asa 


MADRAS  CITT 


Iiu2ti 


Offices.  It  was  designed  by  Mr. 
Robins,  mathematical  professor  at  Wool- 
wich, who  was  made  commander-in- 
chief  at  Madras.  The  K  face  of 
the  Fort  is  only  separated  from  the  sea 
by  a  broad  road,  and  a  sandy  beach  ac- 
cumulated during  the  present  century. 
The  K  face  is  straight,  but  the  W.  face 
landward  is  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
well  protected  by  cross-fire  from 
different  bastions,  and  surrounded  by  a 
deep  fosse,  crossed  by  a  drawbridge. 

Here,  on  Sept.  10,  1746,  M.  de  U 
Bourdonnais  received  in  the  name  of 
the  French  king  the  surrendered  keys, 
which  were  restored  to  the  English 
by  the  Treaty  of  Aix-la-Chapelle.  On 
Dec.  14,  1758  the  French  arrived  before 
it  under  the  command  of  M.  Lally,  but 
retreated  on  Feb.  16,  1759,  leaving 
behind  them  52  cannon  and  many  of 
their  wounded.  The  French  made  their 
approach  on  the  N.  side,  and  their 
princinal  battery,  called  Lolly's,  must 
have  Deen  near'  where  the  Christian 
College  House  now  stands,  as  it  was 
close  to  the  beach,  and  about  580  yds. 
N.  of  the  Fort  Another  battery  was 
at  the  native  cemetery  in  Black  Town, 
and  a  third  about  400  yds.  to  the  S.W. 
In  April  1769,  while  the  English  forces 
were  fiar  away,  Hyder  'Ali  made  his 
appearance  with  his  cavalry,  and  dic- 
tated to  the  (Governor  the  terms  on 
which  he  would  spare  the  defenceless 
territory.  Again,  on  August  10, 
1780,  and  once  more  in  Jan.  1792, 
the  garrison  were  alarmed  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  Mysore  cavalry.  Here 
in  Writer's  Buildings,  Clive  twice 
snapped  a  pistol  at  his  own  head. 
From  this  Fort  he  marched  to  his 
first  victories,  and  from  it  went  the 
army  which,  on  May  4,  1799,  killed 
Tipu  and  captured  Seringapatam.  The 
Accountant  -  General's  Office  in  the 
Fort  was  formerly  the  Government 
House.  On  the  ground -floor  of  the 
Secretariat  Buildings  are  the  volumin- 
ous Records. 

The  Grand  Arsenal  forms  a  long 
parallelogram  on  the  first  floor.  In  it 
IS  the  Museum,  containing  amongst 
other  objects :  four  comets,  or  flags, 
belonging  to  the  1st  and  2d  Regiments 
Madras  Cavalry — ^the  oldest  flags 


taken  from  the  Dutch  and  French  m 
sewn  up  in  covers,  to  protect  tim 
from  the  squirrels,  which  have  di»i 
stroyed  many,  using  them  to  mib 
their  nests  ; — ^two  iron  helmets  tikenat 
Manilha  («tc)  in  1762,  one  weighing  U 
lbs.,  the  other  14  lbs.  There  is  th 
a  very  curious  brass  mortar  from  Kur* 
nool,  shaped  like  a  tiger  sitting  wiH 
legs  planted  almost  straight  out  Ala 
a  handsome  gun  taken  from  Jeswu* 
Rao  Holkar,  with  his  name  and  tb 
date,  1218  A.H.  =1803  A.D. ;  the  cagi 
iu  which  Cajjtain  P.  Anstruther,  E.1, 
was  kept  prisoner  in  China  for  seven 
months ;  a  very  fine  bronze  beU 
taken  by  Major  M*Intyre  at  Ching 
Eang  Foo ;  the  colours  taken  at  die 
capture  of  Sadras  in  1780,  and  from 
the  French  at  Pulicat  in  1781 ;  the 
Dutch  colours  taken  at  Amboyni  n 
1810;  tiger -headed  guns  taken  it 
Seringapatam  in  1792 ;  a  wall-pieca^ 
which  belonged  to  the  Nawab  of  the 
Camatic,  the  barrel  of  which  is  12 11 
long;  the  six  keys  of  Pondicheny, 
taken  in  1778 ;  a  bifurcate  projectile, 
which,  after  issuing  from  the  cannon, 
opens  out  like  a  double-bladed  swotd 
to  the  length  of  5  ft  10  in.  ;  a  wall- 
piece  brought  from  Bellary,  the  barrel 
of  which  IS  15  ft.  long,  though  the 
bore  is  only  IJ  in.  ;  leather  petardi 
with  straps  to  fasten  them  to  a  gate. 

Across  the  Esplanade  W.  of  the  Fort 
are  Pacheappah's  College  and  HaU. 
The  latter  is  of  Greek  Ionic  architecture^ 
and  of  noble  proportions.  Both  build- 
ings owe  their  erection  to  Pacheappah 
Mudelliar,  a  wealthy  and  benevolent 
Hindu  gentleman  who,  dying  a  hun- 
dred years  ago  when  education  was 
almost  unknown  in  Madras,  endowed 
various  religious  and  scholastic  insti- 
tutions and  private  charities  with  no 
less  than  a  lash  of  pagodas. 

The  Jail  or  Penitentiary  is  1  m.  W. 
of  the  Fort 

The  General  Hospital  is  opposte  the 
Central  Rly.  sta.  The  records  go  back 
to  1829.  Dr.  Mortimer  published  an 
account  of  it  in  1838.  On  the  E.  side 
there  is  a  large  detached  building  ac- 
commodating the  Medical  College.  The 
hospital  contains.  500  beds,  and  ia  for 
both  Europeans  and  natives.  Th^  new 


THE  MEMORIAL  HALL 


339 


Military  Hospital  is  S.  of  the  Fort, 
fche  Maternity  and  Ophthalmic 
Hospitals  are  in  Egmore,  and  there 
are  other  hospitals  in  Black-  Town, 
and  also  a  model  Leper  Asylum. 

The  Memorial  Hall,  near  the  General 
Hospital,  is  a  massive  building  of  no 
great  architectural  beauty,  erected  by 
public  subscription  in  commemoration 
of  ''the  goodness  and  forbearance  of 
Almighty  God  in  sparing  this  Presi- 
dency from  the  Sepoy  Mutiny  which 
devastated  the  sister  Presidency  of 
Bengal  in  the  year  1867."  It  is  avail- 
able for  public  meetings  of  a  religious, 
educational,  charitable,  and  scientific 
character;  its  doors  being  closed  against 
"  balls,  concerts,  theatrical  exhibitions, 
and  such-like  entertainments  as  have 
the  character  of  mere  worldly  amuse- 
ment. "  The  Bible  Society  occupies  the 
basement,  and  the  Tract  and  Book 
Society  an  adjacent  building  somewhat 
in  the  same  style  of  architecture. 

The  People's  Park,  close  to  the  Cen- 
tral Railway  Station.  Madras  owes 
bhis  place  of  public  resort  to  Sir  Charles 
rrevelyan,  a  former  governor.  It 
embraces  116  acres  of  land,  with  roads 
extending  to  5^  m.  It  has  eleven 
irtificial  lakes,  a  public  bath,  a  fine 
soologica]  collection,  tennis  courts,  and 
i  bandstand  ;  but  is  not  kept  up  very 
veil  owing  to  want  of  funds.  S.  of  it 
tands  the  Victoria  Tovm  Hall,  facing 
h.e  road,  raised  by  public  subscrip- 
ion  1883-88  (Mr.  Chisholm,  arehi- 
ect).  The  building  is  in  keeping  with 
be  neighbouring  Central  Station. 

The  School  of  Arts,  near  St  Andrew's 
Cirk,  was  established  as  a  private  insti- 
ution  by  Dr.  Alexander  Hunter  in 
850,  and  for  five  years  was  mainly 
apported  by  that  worthy  Doctor's 
irivate  purse.  Government  took  it 
ver  in  1855. 

G-oTomment  House  is  about  i  a  mile 
,.  of  the  Fort.  The  entrance  hall  is 
pacious,  and  contains  a  full-length 
ortrait  of  'Azim  Jah,  the  Nawab  of 
k.rcot,  and  two  pictures  of  his  sons.  In 
tie  breakfast-room  is  a  picture  of  the 
istallation  of  Nawab  Ghulam  Muham- 
uul  Ghaus  Khan  iinder  the  governor- 
xip  of  Lord  Elphinstone,  with  the 
ate  1842.     In  the  dining-room  is  a 


portrait  of  Glive,  and  one  of  Nawab 
Shuj'au-daulah,  of  Oudh,  and  also 
one  of  the  Nawab  'Umdatu-l-Umara. 
In  the  drawing-room  is  a  full-length 
portrait  of  Lady  Munro,  by  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence, — one  of  his  finest  pictures. 
There  H  also  a  portrait  of  the  Mar- 
chioness of  Tweeddale.  The  ban^piet- 
ing-Tiallt  in  a  detached  building,  is  a 
noble  room  80  ft.  long  and  60  ft  broad, 
and  very  lofty.  The  principal  entrance 
is  on  the  N.,  and  is  approached  by  a 
broad  and  lofty  flight  of  stone  steps. 
The  hall  was  constructed  during  Lord 
Clive's  government  to  commemorate 
the  fall  of  Seringapatam.  Round  the 
walls  are  large  pictures  of  Queen 
Victoria  seated  ;  George  III.,  taken  at 
the  beginning  of  his  reign;  Queen 
Charlotte  ;  a  full-length  of  Sir  Thomas 
Munro,  probably  by  Sir  T.  Lawrence  ; 
Robert,  Lord  Hobart,  1790-98;  Lord 
Harris  ;  General  Meadows ;  Lord  Mor- 
nington,  afterwards  Marquis  Wellesley, 
seated  on  the  terrace  of  the  old  Govern- 
ment House  in  the  Fort,  with  two  flags 
on  his  left,  the  British  surmounting  that 
of  Tipu,— the  steeple  of  old  St  Mary's 
Church  is  also  shown  ;  also  General 
Wellesley  (Duke  of  Wellington) ;  Sir 
C.  Trevelyan  in  an  oratorical  attitude  ; 
General  Sir  S.  Auchmuty ;  Genersd  Sir 
Eyre  Coote  ;  Lord  Comwallis,  standing 
in  the  act  of  giving  a  command ;  Sir 
Thomas  Strange  in  the  robes  of  a  judge ; 
Lord  Napier  and  Ettrick,  K.T.,  in  the 
robes  of  a  peer ;  the  Marquis  of  Tweed- 
dale,  Sir  M.  S.  Grant  Duflf;  Lord 
Connemara,  and  others. 

On  the  road  from  the  Fort  to  Mount 
Road  stands  a  bronze  equestrian  staiue 
of  Sir  T.  MimrOy  by  Chantrey,  erected 
by  public  subscription  in  1839  at  a  cost 
of  £9000. 

The  Island  is  a  large  recreation  and 
parade  ground  between  the  Fort  and 
Government  House.  The  Gymkhana 
Club  pavilion  is  a  handsome  structure 
in  the  S.W.  comer,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cooum. 

The  Chepauk  Park  and  Buildings.— 
This  park  was  once  the  property  of  the 
Nawabs  of  the  Camatic.  On  the  death 
of  the  last  occupant  of  the  miisnud,  the 
property  escheated  to  Government,  to- 
gether with  the  old  palace,  a  structure 


340 


MADKAS  CITY 


JfuKa 


of  mixed  Saracenic,  Ionic,  and  Doric 
arcMtectme.  Government  has  since 
greatly  improved  the  palace,  and  the 
whole  building  is  now  in  the  Moorish 
style,  presenting  a  most  imposing  ap- 
pearance. The  entrance,  by  tiie  Wal- 
lajah  Road,  is  through  an  ornamental 
gateway  with  representations  in  porce- 
lain /of  the  various  incarnations  of 
Yishnu,  executed  by  the  Madras  School 
of  Arts.  The  building  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Board  of  Revenue  Offices.  At- 
tached to  it  on  the  S.  is  the  Civil 
Bngineeririg  Gollege^  and  to  the  S.  of 
this  is  the  Presidency  College,  a  fine 
large  building  in  the  Italian  style. 
W.  of  this  again  is  the  Gosha,  or  Caste, 
Hospital  hidden  amongst  trees,  and 
beyond  it  is  the  fine  ground  and 
pavilion  of  the  Madras  Cricket  Club. 
N.  of  the  old  palace  is  the  Senate  Bouse, 
designed,  like  many  other  buildings  in 
Mac&as,  by  Mr.  Chisholm.  It  was  begun 
in  1874  and  completed  in  1879  at  a  cost 
of  289, 000  rs.  Close  to  the  S.  entrance, 
facing  Chepauk  palace,  will  be  seen  the 
Jubilee  status  of  the  Queen  Empress,  a 
replica  of  the  Boehm  statue  at  Windsor, 
presented  to  the  city  by  Rajah  Gaja- 
patee  Row  of  Vizagapatam.  1  m.  S.  W. 
of  the  Senate  House  is  Tripliccme,  a 
crowded  district  containing  the  palace 
where  the  Prince  of  Aroot  resides,  and 
a  famous  Mohammedan  mosque  and 
Hindu  temple. 

The  Faromenade  by  the  Sea-shore. — 
The  Marina,  the  fashionable  drive  and 
promenade  at  Madras,  is  by  the  sea- 
shore, from  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  Fort  southward  over  the  Napier 
Bridge,  and  past  the  Senate  House,  the 
Revenue  Board  Office,  the  Civil  Engin- 
eering College,  the  D.  P.W.  offices,  the 
Presidency  College,  as  far  as  the  Capper 
House  Hotel.  Thence  Cathedral  Road 
runs  nearly  due  W.  about  2  m.  to  St. 
Greorge's  Cathedral,  the  Mount  Road, 
and  file  suburb  of  Adyar.  A  great  part 
of  these  roads  is  overhung  by  mighty 
banian  trees,  forming  a  tunnel  through 
which  one  drives  in  agreeable  coolness 
even  when  the  sun  is  hot. 

The  Mount  Road  extends  from 
Government  House  to  the  Mount,  7 
m.  The  best  European  shops  lie 
^♦"'een  Government  House  and  the 


Club.      The  principal  Hotels  are  also 
in  this  neighbourhood. 

General  Neirs  Statue  opposite  the 
entrance  to  the  Club.  At  the  base  is 
a  fine  alto-relievo  of  a  battle,  with 
Highlanders  and  guns,  and  at  the  back 
is,  **  Erected  by  public  subscription, 
I860.*'  On  the  other  two  sides  are  the 
names  of  the  non-commissioned  officers 
and  men  who  fell  in  the  actions  in 
which  Neil  was  engaged.  There  is 
also  an  inscription  recording  his  death 
at  Lucknow. 

Churches. 

The  Cathedral  (St.  George's)  stands 
1.  in  an  enclosure,  a  little  beyond  Neil's 
statue  along  the  Mount  Road.  The 
exterior  is  not  handsome,  but  the 
dazzling  white  chunam  and  the  very 
numerous  and  remarkably  handsome 
tablets  and  tombs,  and  the  lofty 
and  massive  pillars  in  the  interior, 
produce  a  very  pleasing  impression. 
At  the  E.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  a  fine 
monument  to  the  Right  Rev.  Daniel 
Corrie,  LL.D.,  first  Bishop  of  Madras. 
The  monument  to  Bishop  Reginald 
Heber,  who  died  in  1826,  is  on  the  N. 
wall  of  the  N.  aisle,  and  represents 
him  confirming  two  natives*  Notice 
too  the  monument  to  Major  George 
Broadfoot,  C.B.,  who  was  one  of  the 
illustrious  garrison  of  Jellalabad. 

St.  Mary's  Chnrch,  in  the  Fort, 
built  1678-1680,  was  the  first  English 
church  built  in  India:  it  stands  N. 
and  S.  Sir  Thos.  Munro,  Lord  Hobart, 
and  other  distinguished  persons  are 
buried  here.  There  is  some  interesting 
sacramental  plate  dated  1698.  The 
most  remarkable  monument  is  one  of 
white  marble  reared  by  the  E.  I.  Co.  to 
the  famous  missionary  Schwartz.  He 
is  represented  dying  on  his  bed  sur- 
rounded by  a  group  of  friends,  with  an 
angel  appearing  in  the  clouds  and 
holding  up  a  cross  to  his  view. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  square,  in  the 
Fort,  is  a  statue  of  Lord  ComwaUis 
under  a  stone  canopy,  on  the  pedestal 
of  which  is  sculptured  the  surrender  of 
Tipu's  two  sons  in  1792.  This  statue 
is  by  Chantrey,  and  was  erected  in  1800 
at  the  joint  expense  of  the  principal 
inhabitants  of  Madras. 

St.  Andrew's,  the  Scotch  Ohnroh,  it 


THE  ARMENIAN  CHURCH 


841 


on  the  Panamali  Road,  opposite  the 
S.Iw  Bailway  Station,  Egmore,  built 
1818-20,  cost  £20,000,  the  architect 
being  Major  de  Havilland.  The 
Madras  stacco,  or  chunam,  in  the 
interior  gives  to  the  pillars  all  the 
whiteness  and  polish  of  the  finest 
marble.  The  steeple  rises  to  the  height 
of  166  ft.,  and  the  building  is  remark- 
able for  the  complete  substitution  of 
Xiiasonry  for  timber,  which  might  be 
destroyed  by  white  ants. 

At  St.  Thom6,  rather  more  than  2 
m.  due  S.  of  the  Fort,  there  is  a  small 
bat  pretty  church  situated  on  the  top 
of  a  sand  dune  within  a  few  yards  of 
the  sea. 

St.  Thom^,  Roman  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral, a  short  distance  N.,  is  an  old 
structure,  and  has  the  reputation  of 
being  built  over  the  earthly  remains  of 
St.  Thomas.  On  the  S.  side,  beneath 
a  large  trap-door,  his  tomb  is  pointed 
out  (see  p.  342). 

The  Armenian  Chnxch  in  Black 
Town,  a  quaint  old  building  well  worth 
a  visit,  bears  on  its  street  portal  the 
date  1712. 

St.  Matthias'  Church,  Vepery,  is 
remarkable  as  having  been  given  by 
Admiral  Boscawen  as  a  recompense  for 
the  one  near  the  beach  which  was 
destroyed  during  the  war  between  the 
French  and  English.  It  belongs  to  the 
Church  of  England. 

In  Black  Town,  Emanuel  Church,  the 
Church  Mission  Chapel,  and  the  fFes- 
leyan  Chapeh  The  Homan  Catholic 
Cathedral  is  in  Armenian  Street  in 
Black  Town. 

The  Woman's  Medical  Mission  and 
Schools  and  second  Tamil  church  of 
the  Free  Church  of  Scotland  are  in 
the  Royapooran  suburb  N. 


The  Gun-carriage  Factory. — This 
is  one  of  the  oldest  institutions  in 
Madras.  It  was  originally  established 
in  1802,  at  Seringapatam,  but  as  the 
supply  of  timber  from  the  teak  forests 
of  Mysore  and  Coorg  failed,  it  was  re- 
moved to  Madras  in  1830. 

The  Museum  is  situated  about  2  m, 


to  the  W.  of  the  Fort,  on  the  Pantheon 
Road.  The  collection  was  originally 
formed  in  1846,  and  arranged  in  the 
College  Hall  by  Dr.  Balfour.  In  1857 
it  was  removed  to  the  present  building, 
then  known  as  the  Pantheon.  During 
the  forty  years  that  have  passed  since 
then  the  work  of  collection  has  been 
going  on  steadily,  until  now  it  contains 
a  unique  assortment  of  interesting 
specimens,  which  have  made  thename  of 
the  Madras  Museum  &mou8  amongst 
modem  scientists.  The  Museum  ia 
open  daily  to  visitors  from  6.80  A.M. 
to  5  P.M.,  Sundays  excepted.  The 
afternoon  of  the  first  Saturday  in  the 
month  is  reserved  for  the  reception  of 
native  ladies.  The  total  number  of 
visitors  to  the  Museum  amounts  to 
nearly  400, 000  annually.  The  Victoria 
Technical  Institute,  New  Theatre, 
and  Connemara  Library  within  the 
compound  of  the  Museum  is  a  large 
block  of  buildings  designed  by  Hy. 
Irwin,  CLE. 

The  very  extensive  library  of  the 
Literary  Society,  a  branch  of  the 
Royal  Asiatic  Society,  is  at  the  Con- 
nemara Library.  The  Mackenzie  MSS. , 
in  upwards  of  60  gigantic  volumes,  may 
be  noticed,  containing  a  mass  of 
historical  and  legendary  lore  respecting 
the  S.  of  India.  There  is  also  a 
portrait  of  the  well-known  French 
missionary,  the  Abbe  Dubois,  dressed 
as  a  native  of  India.  He  spent  25 
years  in  Mysore. 

The  Botanical  Gkurdena,  near  the 
Cathedral,  comprise  an  area  of  about  22 
acres,  and  are  laid  out  in  a  highly  orna- 
mental manner.  Many  rare  trees, 
shrubs,  and  plants  are  to  be  seen  there ; 
one  of  the  great  attractions  being  the 
splendid  Victoria  Begia,  in  a  couple  of 
small  ponds.  The  Society  possesses  a 
valuable  Library  containing  many  rare 
works.  The  Gardens  were  brought 
into  existence  mainly  through  the 
efforts  of  Dr.  Wright  about  the  year 
1836. 

The  Obsenratory  is  about  1  m.  W. 
of  the  Museum,  and  has  been  in  charge 
of  very 'eminent  xpeQ.     (t  onginste4 


342 


MADRAS  CITY 


India 


in  a  small  private  observatory  started 
in  1787  by  Mr.  W.  Petrie,  a  scientific 
member  of  Council.  The  building  was 
erected  in  1793  by  Michael  Tapping, 
under  orders  from  the  directors  of  the 
E.I.O.,  and  stands  in  N.  lat  13"  4' 6", 
E.  long.  80"  17'  22*. 

The  buildinff  known  as  the  Old  Col- 
Uge^  not  far  crom  the  Observatory,  is 
now  used  as  the  office  of  the  Director 
of  Public  Instruction. 

The  Central  Railway  Station  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  India. 


SUBUBBS. 

On  the  way  to  Guindy,  the  Bace- 
course,  and  the  other  southern  suburbs 
is  Marmalong  Bridge  (said  to  be 
Mamillammat  *'  Our  Lady  of  the  Man- 
goes ")  spanning  the  Adyar  river.  It 
has  29  arches.  Near  the  N.  end  is  an 
inscription  in  English,  Latin,  and 
Persian,  which  says  that  the  expenses 
of  the  bridge  were  defrayed  from  a 
legacy  left  for  the  purpose  by  Adrian 
Fourbeck,  a  merchant  of  Madras. 

The  Little  Mount. — This  curious  spot 
is  about  6  m.  S.  W.  of  the  Fort  It  is 
on  a  rooky  eminence  on  1.  after  crossing 
Marmalong  Bridge.  A  flight  of  steps 
leads  to  the  Church.  On  the  1.  is  a 
litter  in  which  they  carry  the  effigy  of 
the  Virgin.  On  the  left  of  the  entrance 
is  a  portrait  of  St.  Thomas,  with  an 
old  Portuguese  inscription.  Descend- 
ing some  steps  on  the  left,  a  slope  leads 
down  to  a  cavern  hewn  out  of  the  solid 
rock.  It  is  necessary  to  stoop  very  low 
to  enter  the  cave,  and  there  is  nothing 
to  see  but  a  narrow  aperture  which  lets 
in  the  daylight ;  and  through  this 
fissure  they  tell  you  St.  Thomas  escaped 
the  Indians  who  wished  to  slay  him. 
In  the  vestry-room  is  a  Missal  with 
the  date  1798.  Thev  show  a  dark  cell 
full  of  bats,  said  to  be  the  oldest  part 
of  the  church,  where  St.  Thomas 
himself  worshipped.  To  the  W.  is  a 
hole  in  the  rock  in  which  is  a  little 
water,  said  to  have  been  miraculously 
produced  by  him.  This  is  called  the 
yov^ftt^in.      Outside  i^re  some   rocks 


said  to  be  marked  vdth  the  feet,  knees, 
and  hands  of  St.  Thomas.  The  general 
belief  is  that  St.  Thomas  was  martyred  * 
at  Mylapore,  which  H.  H.  Wilson 
( Transacticms  of  Hoy,  As,  Soc  voL  i.  p. 
161)  identifies  with  Mihilaropye,  or 
Mihilapur,  now  St.  Thome.  The 
martjrniom  is  said  to  have  taken  plaoeon 
the  21st  of  December  68  A.D. ;  and  Heber 
says  {Journal,  vol.  iii  p.  212,  4th  ed.) : 
' '  I  see  no  good  reason  K>r  doubting  that 
it  is  really  the  place."  In  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  Chron.  (p.  857,  Bohn*B  ed.)  itis 
said:  *'This  year  (883),  Sighelm  and 
Athelstan  carried  to  Borne  the  alms 
which  Alfred  had  vowed  to  send 
thither,  and  also  to  India  to  St 
Thomas  and  to  St.  Bartholomew." 
Gibbon  refers  to  it,  ch.  48.  Bishop 
Dorotheus,  bom  254  A.D.,  in  a  fragment 
in  the  PasehcU  Chron,  says  that  the 
Apostle  Thomas  suffiored  martyrdom  at 
Calamina,  a  town  of  India  (see  Cave's 
Mistoria  LUeraria,  p.  107).  At  the 
Council  of  Nice,  825  A.D.,  John,  Bishop 
of  India,  was  present.  St.  Jerome, 
390  A.D.,  mentions  Calamina  as  the 
town  in  India  where  St.  Thomas  died. 
In  Col.  Yule's  Ma/rco  Polo,  voL  ii. 
pp.  290,  293,  294,  will  be  found  refer- 
ences to  other  ancient  notices  of  St 
Thomas's  visit  to  India,  and  an  illus- 
tration of  the  cross  mentioned  above. 
Abdias,  who  lived  at  the  end  of  the 
1st  century,  and  whose  work  was 
published  by  Lazius  at  Basle  in  1552, 
says  he  remembered  a  book  in  which 
the  voyage  of  St.  Thomas  to  India  was 
described. 

The  College  of  Agriculture,  the  Saida- 
pet  Model  Farm,  the  Tecuihers*  College] 
and  the  Government  Veterinary  Hospi- 
tal will  be  observed  on  the  Madras 
side  of  the  river,  east  of  the  Mount 
Road.  The  Model  Farm  is  not  now 
fully  cultivated.  Its  situation  turned 
out  to  be  ill  chosen  on  sandy  unpro- 
ductive soil,  and  it  is  now  simply  used 
for  practical  demonstrations  to  the 
students  of  the  College  of  Agriculture. 

1  The  Rev.  C.  Egbert  Eennet,  of  Bishop's 
Coll.,  Calcutta,  has  brought  together  &e 
notices  of  St.  Thomas's  visit  to  India  in  a 
pamphlet,  printed  at  the  8.P.G.K.  Pr«s8, 
Vepery.  See  also  Dr.  Milne  Rae's  Tht  Syrim 
CAurcJ, 


THE  governor's  COUNTRY  HOUSE 


343: 


The  Oovemor'B  Goimtry  House  at 
Guindy,  about  6  m.  from  Government 
House.  The  house  standing  in  a  large 
park,  with  many  deer,  has  a  very  hand- 
some appearance,  being  faced  with  the 
beautiful  white  chunam  for  which 
Madras  is  so  famous.  The  centre  room, 
which  is  used  as  a  ball-room,  contains 
a  good  bust  of  Wellington.  The 
flower-garden  lies  to  the  S.,  and  is  SJ 
acres  in  extent,  and  there  are  detached 
bungalows  for  the  staff  in  the  park. 

The  Bace-course,  close  to  Government 
House,  Guindy,  is  IJ  m.  long.  To  the 
N.  you  see  the  Great  Mount  and  Pala- 
veram,  a  double  hill  about  500  ft.  high, 
with  a  long,  low  range  extending  from 
it.  The  races  take  place  in  the  cold 
weather.  In  the  course  is  an  obelisk 
to  Major  Donald  Mackey,  who  died  in 
1783. 

St.  Thomas's  Mount,  or  Great  Mount 

(rly.  sta.  1  m.  distant),  is  7  m.  from 
the  Fort,  and  about  3  m.  from  Marma- 
long  Bridge  to  the  S.W.  At  the  base 
of  the  Mount  are  the  CantoiimerU  and 
the  building  which  used  to  be  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Madras  Artillery  :  the 
mess-rooms  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in 
India.  There  are  good  reading-rooms 
and  a  valuable  library.  In  the  dining- 
room  are  some  interesting  portraits. 

The  English  Church  is  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  the  mess -house.  It  is  a 
nandsome  building,  with  a  well-pro- 
portioned steeple.  The  register  of  the 
church  goes  back  to  1804.  There 
are  monuments  here  to  several  dis- 
tinguished officers. 

The  Mount  is  a  knoll  of  greenstone 
and  syenite  about  300  ft  high,  topped 
by  an  old  Armenian  Church.  The 
ascent  is  by  a  succession  of  terraces 
and  steps.  Over  an  archway  is  the 
date  1726,  and  within  are  several 
slabs  with  epitaphs.  After  ascending 
121  steps  observe  the  remains  of  a 
fortification,  with  embrasures  for  guns, 
and  three  cannon  used  for  signals. 
The  church  is  called  **The  Expecta- 
tion of  the  Blessed  Virgin,"  and  was 
built  by  the  Portuguese  in  1547.     To 


the  N.  W.  are  the  Hills  of  PaUveram, 
and  between  them  and  the  Mount  are 
the  barracks,  with  a  fine  parade  ground. 
At  this  Church,  behind  the  alter  and 
above  it,  is  a  remarkable  cross  with  a 
Nestorian  inscription  in  Sassanian  Pah- 
lavi  of  about  800  A.D.  The  inscription 
begins  a  little  to  right  of  the  top  of  the 
arch.  Dr.  Burnell  translates  it :  "  Ever 
pure  ...  is  in  favour  with  Him  who 
bore  the  cross." 

Sport.  The  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  Madras  offers  very  few  oppor- 
tunities for  sporting  expeditious,  al- 
though there  are  parts  of  the  Presidency," 
such  as  the  Western  Ghats  and  the 
Northern  Circars,  where  as  good  big 
and  small  game  shooting  can  be  got  as 
anywhere  else  in  India.  Within  one 
day's  journey  of  Madras  big  game  is 
not  at  all  obtainable,  but  very  good 
snipe-shooting  can  be  had  in  the  cold 
weather  along  the  line  of  railway  to 
the  south,  notably  at  Guduvancherri, 
a  small  village  about  22  miles  from 
Madras,  where  bags  of  60  couple  have 
been  shot  within  a  few  hours.  The 
services  of  a  local  shikari  should,  if 
possible,  be  secured.  On  the  Nuggery 
Hills,  about  60  miles  to  the  N.W.  of 
Madras,  it  is  still  possible  to  obtain 
some  deer-stelking. 


At  26  m.  W.  of  Madras,  Trivalur 
sta. ,  there  are  large  temples  ;  and  4  m. 
from  the  station  is  the  site  of  the  old 
fort  of  Tripasore,  which  was  captured 
by  Sir  Eyre  Coote  in  1781.  Tripasore 
fort  was  at  one  time  the  station  for 
the  East  India  Co.'s  cadets,  and  after-' 
wards  for  pensioners. 

The  following  is  from  Fergusson's 
History  0/ Indian  Architecture : — "  The 
temple  of  Trivalur  contrasts  curiously 
with  that  at  Tanjore  in  the  principles 
on  which  it  was  designed,  and  serves 
to  exemplify  the  mode  in  which,  un- 
fortunately,  most  Dravidian  temples 
were  aggregated. 

"The  nucleus  here  was  a  small 
village  temple.  It  is  a  double  shrine, 
dedicated  to  Shiva  and  his  consort, 


a44 


MABRAS  €ITT 


iTtdia 


atandittg  in  a  cloistered  court  which 
nisaHures    192   ft.  x  156   ft   ever  all, 


Plan  of  Inner  Temple  of  Triralur, 

and  haa  one  gopura  in  frout.     So  far, 
there  ia  nothing  to  distiugnish  it  from 


Additions  were  again  made  at  soma 
subsequent  datej  the  whole  being 
eiiclo?>tMl  in  a  ™urt  040  ft,  x  701  ft— 
this  tiinti  with  iive  gopurasj  and  aeveril 
ini  porta  lit  ehriuea.  When  the  kst 
addition  wa^  made^  it  waa  intended  to 
endow  the  temple  with  one  of  tiose 
great  h  alls  xshich  we  re  consid&red 
indispensable  in  temples  of  the  first 
cla&3.  Generally  they  had,  or  were 
intended  to  liave,  1000  columns;  tin* 
one  haa  only  6SS,  and  only  ikbont  oni 
Imlf  of  these  carry  beams  of  any  eort 
There  can,  however,  be  very  little  doabt 
that,  had  time  and  money  been  nr^ 
able^  it  would  hare  been  completed  to 


Bird's-eye  View,  Temple  of  Trivalur. 


the  ordinary  temples  found  in  every 
village.  It,  however,  at  some  subse- 
quent period  became  sacred  or  rich, 
and  a  second  or  outer  court  was  added, 
measuring  470  ft.  each  way,  with  two 
gopuras,  higher  than  the  original  one, 
and  containing  within  its  walls  num- 
berless   little    shrines    and    porches. 


the  typical  extent.  As  it  is,  it  is  prob- 
ably owing  to  our  management  of  the 
revenues  of  the  counSy  that  the 
requisite  funds  were  not  forthcoming, 
and  the  buildings  stopped  probably 
within  the  limits  of  the  present  cen- 
tury. 
"  The  general  effect  of  such  a  design 


ROUTE  26.       HTDSRABAD 


345 


■8  this  msy  be  gathered  from  the  bird's- 
eye  view  (tyoodcut,  preceding  page).  As 
on  artistic  design,  nothing  can  be  worse. 
The  gateways  irregularly  spaced  in  a 
great  blank  wall  lose  half  their  dignity 
from  their  positions ;  and  the  bathos 
of  their  decreasing  in  size  and  elabora- 
tion as  they  approach  the  sanctuary 
is  a  mistake  which  nothing  can  redeem, 
We  may  admire  beauty  of  detail,  and 
be  astonished  at  the  elaboration  and 
•▼idenoe  of  labour,  if  they  are  found 
in  such  a  temple  as  this,  but  as  an 
architectural  design  it  is  altogether 
detestable.** 


ROUTE  25 

Wadi  Junction  to  Htdeeabad, 
Sbcitnderabad,  (Golkonda.Bidar) 
Warangal,  Bezwada,  Vizaoa- 
patam,   vlzianagram,  puki  and 

CUTTACK, 

H.H.  the  Nizam's  State  Bly. 

376  m.  from  Bombay,  Wadi  juno.  sta. 
(R.)  (see  p.  333). 

9  m.  Chittapnr  sta.  extensive  silk 
manufactures.  About  1  m.  to  the 
S.  is  Kagai,  a  deserted  town  with 
rained  temples  dating  from  1050  A.D. 
In  one  of  them  is  a  life  size  bull  cut 
<mt  of  a  solid  block  of  basalt. 

24  m.  Seram  sta.  A  richly  carved 
temple,  of  1200  A.D. 

44  m.  Tandur  sta.  (R.).  Small  and 
large  game. 

88  m.  Shankarpalli  sta.  From  here 
is  a  fair  weather  road  to  Bidar,  10  m. 
(see  p.  851). 

100  m.  Llngampalli  sta.  Soon  after 
this  the  line  is  very  picturesque,  dotted 
with  numerous  granite  peaks  and 
isolated  rocks.  This  stone  belt  extends 
to  Bhxmigaon,  28  m.  K  of  Hyderabad. 

115  m.  HTDBRABAD  sta.  a^  If  m. 
from  the  nearest  city  gate.  The  capital 
of  H.H.  the  Nizam's  territory.  The 
city  (pop.,  with  suburbs,  392,700) 
stands  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Musi 
river,  with  Golkonda  to  W.,  and  the 
cantonments  of  the  British  troops,  the 
contingent,  and  the  Residency  and  its 
bazaars  to  the  N. 

The  state  of  which  Hyderabad  is  the 
capital  covers  98,000  sq.  m.^  with  a 


pop.  of  10,468,930,  and  is  by  far  the 
Lugest  native  state  in  India.  The  citv 
is  famed  for  its  warlike,  and  variea, 
population.  Formerly  all  the  inhabit- 
ants always  carried  weapons,  but  owing 
to  the  peace  and  prosperity  which  have 
come  with  British  influence,  the  habit 
is  not  now  universal.  It  is  still  the 
custom,  among  the  upi>er  classes,  to 
carry  an  ornamented  dagger  in  the 
girdle,  or  a  sword  suspende<l  from  a 
gold  lace  belt,  when  paying  visits.  In 
this  custom  servants  imitate  their 
masters,  and  most  of  the  shopkeepers 
in  the  bazaars  continue  it. 

There  is  a  very  beautiful  Public  Plea- 
sure-ground N.  of  the  station.  In  this 
garden  are  two  pavilions,  and  at  one 
end  a  menagerie.  There  is  also  a  piece 
of  water  in  the  grounds.  The  small 
branch  line  which  connects  the  railway 
station  and  the  workshops  is  not  used 
for  passenger  traffic.  Dominating  the 
N.  part  of  the  garden  is  a  black  rook 
called  Nauhat  Pahar,  "the  Guard 
Rook,"  which  is  very  picturesque. 
Fateh  Maidan,  a  plain  that  lies  be- 
tween the  black  rock  and  Chadar 
Ghat,  is  the  Nizam's  polo -ground. 
Near  the  public  gardens  is  the  Saifa- 
bad  Cantonment  of  the  Nizam's  regular 
troops.  It  is  very  neatly  laid  out 
There  is  an  old  mosque  here  bmlt  hj 
Khairatbai.  Tlie  powder-magazine  is 
believed  to  be  her  tomb. 

The  Besidenoy  stands  about  1  m. 
N.W.  of  tjie  city  in  a  suburb  called 
Chadar  Ghat,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
bazaar  containing  12,000  inhabitants. 
The  grounds  are  extensive,  and  full  of 
grand  old  trees,  and  are  enclosed  by  a 
wall,  which  was  strengthened  by  Colonel 
Davidson  after  the  attack  upon  the 
Residency  on  the  morning  of  l7th  July 
1857.  That  attack  was  made  by  a 
band  of  RohiUas  and  others,  and  was 
repulsed  by  the  troops  at  the  Residency 
under  Major  Briggs,  Military  Secretary. 
Bastions  were  then  erected  commanding 
the  approaches,  but  the  place  was  not 
attacked  again. 

On  the  site  of  the  Residency  there 
was  formerly  a  villa  belonging  to  a 
favourite  of  Nizam  'Ali,  and  in  it  Sir 
John  Kennaway,  who  was  appointed 
Resident  iu  1788^  wi^  received.    The 


ROUTE  26.      WADI  JUNCTION  TO  BEZWADA 


346 


TOesent  Residency  waa  built  1808-8. 
The  N.  front,  at  which  is  the  Grand 
Entrance,  looks  away  from  the  Musi 
river  and  the  ci^.  In  the  stately  hall 
is  a  picture  of 'General  Cubbon  at  one 
end  and  a  portrait  of  the  Rajah  of  Mysore 
at  the  other.  Between  them  is  a  picture 
of  Chandu  Lai  in  a  white  turban  and 
robe.  The  chandeliers  cost  a  prodigious 
sum,  and  the  lighting  of  the  Uesidency 
in  former  times  for  a  single  reception- 
night  entailed  an  expense  of  £1000. 
On  such  occasions  the  crowd  was  so 
great  and  the  number  of  those  who 
tried  to  force  an  entrance  so  excessive 
that  swords  were  often  drawn.  While 
the  male  visitors  were  received  by  the 
Resident,  their  wives  were  entertained 
in  a  mansion  attached  to  the  Resi- 
dency, called  the  Rang  Mahal  which 
no  longer  exists.  To  the  W.  of  the 
Residency  is  a  private  mansion  for  the 
Resident,  where  he  can  withdraw  into 
complete  privacy.  Among  the  trees  the 
visitor  wiU  remark  four  enormous  speci- 
mens of  the  FicuB  vndica^  the  trunk  of 
one  measuring  30  ft  round.  There  is 
also  a  very  gigantic  tamarind  tree.  The 
Park  contains  an  obelisk  raised  by  the 
officers  of  the  Russell  Brigade  to  the 
memory  of  Lieut.  William  John  Darby, 
who  was  killed  in  1815  within  the  city 
of  Hydei-abad;  while  gallantly  leading 
the  grenadiers  in  a  charge  against  some 
rebels. 

The  City  is  in  shape  a  trapezoid. 
The  total  area  is  2  m.  :  .it  is  modem 
and  has  no  very  remarkable  buildings, 
but  the  Jxtzaars  are  extremely  pictur- 
esque and  thronged  with  natives  from 
all  parts  of  India.  On  the  N.W. 
side  are  five  Gateways^  viz.  on  the  ex- 
treme E.  the  Chadar  Ghat  Gate  ;  next 
on  the  W.  the  Delhi  or  Afzal  Gung  Gate ; 
next  in  the  same  direction  are  the 
Champa,  the  Char  Mahal,  and  the 
Old  Bridge  Gates  in  succession.  In 
the  S.  W.  side  there  is  first,  the  Dudhni 
Gate,  then  the  Fateh,  which  is  exactly 
in  the  centre,  and  then  the  'Aliabad  in 
the  S.W.  comer.  In  the  S.  side  are 
the  Gaulipur  and  the  Ghaziband,  and 
on  the  E.  side  are  the  Mir  Jumlah,  the 
Y'akubpur,  and  the  Daudpur  Gates. 

The  Musi  river  on  the  N.W.  side 
is  crossed  by  three  Bridges,    Farthest 


India 


to  the  £.  is  the  Oliphant  BridgB, 
which  was  erected  in  1831  by  Colond 
Oliphant,  of  the  Madras  l^igineen, 
afterwards  a  dii*ector  of  the  ELG. 
The  next  bridge  to  the  W.  is  the  AM 
Gung  Bridge,  and  then  comes  the  Old 
Bridge.  Crossing  the  river  by  the  Afzal 
Gung  Bridge,  the  traveller  passes  near  the 
Uesidency  Sekool  and  the  City  Hospitai. 
The  Afzal  Chiiig  Mtisjid  (Mosque),  which 
adjoins  the  hospital  to  the  N.,  is  a 
noble  building  with  four  lofty  minarets. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  road  is  a 
hospital  for  women,  which  for  some 
time  was  presided  over  by  an  American 
lady.  This  establishment  can  be  in- 
spected by  ladies  only. 

Crossing  the  bridge  and  passing 
through  the  Afzal  Gung  Gate,  the 
traveller  finds  himself  in  a  broad  street, 
which  runs  from  it  completely  throuj^ 
the  city.  A  few  hundred  yards  farther 
is  the  Palace  of  tJie  late  Sir  Salar  Ja^ 
Bahadur f  G.C.S.I.,  whose  able  ad- 
ministration of  the  state  is  a  matter 
of  history.  Sir  Salar's  palace  is  ealled 
the  Barahdari,  a  common  name  for 
palaces  or  pavilions,  literally  "twelve 
doors."  The  great  drawing-room  con- 
tains a  number  of  portraits  of  former 
Rodents  and  other  distinguished  pe^ 
sonages.  It  looks  upon  a  small  piece 
of  water  with  fountains.  The  garaens 
are  tastefully  laid  out  The  SiH  Khana 
contains  curious  specimens  of  old 
weapons  and  coats  of  maiL  Close  to  it 
is  the  Chini  Khana,  about  14  ft  square 
and  12  ft.  high,  covered  with  china 
cemented  to  the  walls,  some  of  which 
is  said  to  be  valuable.  Proceeding 
along  the  central  street,  at  about  \ 
m.  from  the  Afzal  Bridge  is  a  rectan- 
gular building  with  four  minarets,  benoe 
called  the  Char  Minor,  186  ft  hi^ 
and  100  ft.  wide  on  each  side,  built  in 
1691,  formerly  a  college,  occupying  the 
most  central  position  in  the  city  when 
the  four  main  roads  meet.  Just  before 
reaching  it,  one  passes  under  an  aieh 
which  is  called  the  Machhi  Kaman,  or 
"Arch  of  the  Fish,"  the  fish  being* 
badge  of  high  rank.  There  are  fo«r 
arches  50  ft.  nigh  across  the  streets,  <0 
to  each  quarter  of  the  compass.  Hfli^ 
too,  is  a  smaU  garden  called  the  Ghthaff 
or  Charsu.     A  little  to  the  £.  of  d» 


ROUTE  25.       HYDERABAD 


347 


Jhar  Minar  is  the  Mecca  Mttsjid,  the 
>rincipal  mosque  in  the  city,  and  so 
sailed  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
nosque  at  Mecca.  It  is  a  grand  but 
tombre  building,  with  four  minars  and 
ox  arches  in  front,  occupying  one  side 
>f  a  paved  quadrangle  860  ft.  square. 
Chuing  the  Mohammedan  festivals  as 
nany  as  8000  or  10,000  people  assemble 
lere  for  prayer.  In  the  centre  are  two 
)olished  stone  slabs,  said  to  be  taken 
Tom  a  Hindu  temple. 

The  Nizam's  Palace  is  on  the  W. 
ide  of  the  Char  Minar :  the  Ghauk, 
>r  principal  street,  gives  access  to  the 
N^ixam's  Palace^  where  a  gateway  leads 
»  a  quadrangle  about  the  size  of  that  of 
Christ  Church,  Oxford.  At  the  S.W. 
corner  of  this  there  is  a  lane  which  leads 
nto  a  second  quadrangle,  in  which  are 
|;enerally  about  2000  servants,  horse- 
nen,  etc.  ;  a  passage  from  the  S.W. 
iomer  of  this  leads  into  a  third  quad- 
angle  about  the  size  of  Lincoln's  Inn 
?1efd8,  where  1000  or  2000  attendants 
ire  generally  to  be  found.  The  build- 
ngs  on  each  side  are  handsome,  and 
■esemble  the  Shah's  palace  at  Teheran, 
mt  are  finer.  Persons  invited  here  dis- 
nount  from  their  elephants,  and  are 
received  by  the  Chamberlain,  who  wears 
i  white  robe.  They  are  conducted 
nto  a  handsome  pavilion,  filled  with 
sourtiers,  handsomely  furnished,  and 
frith  fiveimmense  chandeliers.  It  is  said 
hat  the  palace  contains  7000  persons. 

During  the  Muharram,  H.H.  s  troops 
o  the  number  of  30,000  pass  in  proces- 
ion  in  front  of  the  palace,  and  the  spec- 
acle  is  altogether  a  very  magnificent 
►ne.  The  procession  takes  place  on  the 
>th  of  Muharram :  it  is  called  the 
Langar,  and  is  said  to  be  in  honour  of 
Cutb-u-din  Kuli  Shah,  the  sovereign, 
rho  built  the  Char  Minar  and  the 
tfecca  Musjid.  Various  stories  are 
;old  about  this  procession.  It  is  said 
;hat  Langar  (a  chain)  means  the  chain 
vith  which  an  elephant  is  confined, 
ind  that  Eutb-u-din  Kuli  Shah  was 
Tin  away  with  by  bis  elephant,  which 
laddenly  became  furious  and  rushed 
ibout  for  three  days,  keeping  the  king 
nrithout  food  and  in  peril  of  his  life. 
Dn  the  third  day  it  became  tractable, 
in4  the  Zcmgar  was  fastened  on  it,    In 


a  side  street  200  yds.  beyond  the  palace 
is  the  house  in  which  the  well-known 
minister  Chandu  Lai  died.  It  is  a  low 
but  highly-ornamented  Hindu  house. 

Beyond  the  Chauky  where  all  the 
mercers  live,  and  near  the  W.  wall  of 
the  city,  is  the  vast  palace  of  the  Barak- 
darriy  which  was  buut  by  the  Shamsu-'l- 
umara.  It  covers  a  large  space,  is 
handsomely  furnished,  and  contains  a 
gigantic  suit  of  armour  and  many 
mechanical  curiosities,  also  a  number 
of  ostriches,  which  are  ridden  by  men. 
The  birds  travel  with  great  speed,  but 
are  very  difficult  to  manage.  From  the 
top  of  this  palace  there  is  a  fine  view 
over  the  city.  To  the  W.  Golkonda 
Fort  is  seen,  and  the  mausoleums  of  the 
kings  close  by  it.  A  silver  sti*eak  be- 
tween marks  the  position  of  the  Mir 
'Alam  tank.  One  can  see  also  the  Tvl- 
i-JPuranay  or  Old  Bridge.  To  the  S. 
the  Jehan  Nvmva  Palace  is  visible,  and 
a  mosque  built  by  the  Amir  Eabir. 

The  Jtiham,  Numaf  also  built  by  the 
Shamsu-'l-umara,  in  a  suburb  oi  the 
same  name  outside  the  'Aliabad  Gate, 
is  reached  by  a  causeway  built  across 
rice -fields.  Adjoining  it  is  a  very 
long  bazaar,  consisting  of  neatly-built 
houses,  forming  two  long  but  narrow 
ellipses.  These  houses  seem  to  be  rented 
at  particular  times  to  the  attendants  of 
great  personages  coming  to  visit  the 
city.  Beyond  is  a  court  where  there 
are  hundreds  of  soldiers,  horse  and  foot. 
At  the  end  of  this  is  a  carpeted  staircase 
which  leads  into  a  reception-room.  The 
palace  is  full  of  curiosities  of  all  kinds. 

A  morning  may  be  passed  in  visiting 
the  Mir  *Alam  Tank,  which  is  2  m. 
from  the  S.  wall  of  the  city.  The 
lake  is  7  m.  round.  The  embankment 
is  formed  of  twenty-one  granite  arches 
laid  on  their  sides,  presenting  their 
convex  surfaces  to  the  pressure  of  the 
water.  It  is  1120  yds.  long,  and  was 
built  by  French  engineer  at  a  cost  of 
£80,000.  There  are  several  steamers 
on  the  lake  ;  one  for  hire. 

At  300  yds.  from  the  bank  is  a 
bungalow,  where  you  can  take  refresh- 
ments, if  you  bring  any  with  you.  At 
the  extreme  W.  end  of  the  lake,  which 
has  picturesque  coves  and  windings,  is 
a   wooded    hill   about    80    ft.    high, 


348 


BOUTE  26.       WADI  JUNCTION  TO  BEZWADA 


Indd 


nmnonnted  by  a  bnildicf;;  which  is 
the  Bargah,  or  shrine,  of  MaJibtib  AH. 
In  order  to  see  the  dargah  you  have  to 
disembark  and  walk  about  a  J  m.  away 
from  the  lake,  and  then  ascend  a 
number  of  steps.  The  dar^h  is  a  beau- 
tiful structure  and  well  placed,  looking 
down  on  the  waters  of  the  lake  that 
ripple  at  the  foot  of  the  cliflf  on  which 
it  stands.  It  is  small  but  symmetrical, 
and  was  once  covered  with  blue  tiles. 

The  Race -course  MuUcapet  is  a  fine 
piece  of  level  ground  £.  of  the  city. 
The  race-meeting  is  held  in  November, 
and  lasts  for  five  days.  H.H.  the 
Nizam  gives  invaluable  assistance  and 
dispenses  princely  hospitality. 

121  m.  Secnnderabad  sta.  if.  h\  m. 
N.  of  the  Hyderabad  Residency,  is  the 
British  military  cantonment ;  and  one 
of  the  largest  in  India,  covering  19  sq. 
m.  The  Hyderabad  Subsidiary  Force 
is  maintained  by  the  British  Govern- 
ment from  the  revenues  of  the  Districts 
ceded  by  the  treaty  of  1853.  It  is 
1830  ft.  above  sea- level.  The  road 
from  Hyderabad  to  Secunderabad, 
flanked  on  the  W.  by  the  Husaavn, 
Saugar  Tank^  is  lined  by  handsome 
villas,  many  of  them  built  by  wealthy 
natives  and  officials  of  the  Nizam's 
Court.  This  is  the  fashionable  drive, 
and  many  magnificent  equipages  may 
be  seen  here.  In  a  villa  called  Pestanji 
Koihiy  originally  built  by  a  Parsi  who 
farmed  the  revenues,  is  a  picture  of 
General  Palmer,  who  married  a  Begam 
of  Oudh.  St,  George's  Churchy  which 
most  of  the  English  inhabitants  of 
Chadar  Ghat  attend,  is  200  yds.  N.  of 
Pestanji  Eothi.  In  the  churchyard  are 
a  number  of  tombs.  Among  them  is 
that  of  the  famous  William  Palmer, 
who  was  called  "King  Palmer,"  and 
was  the  head  of  the  great  house  who 
banked  for  the  Nizam.  He  was  the 
son  of  General  Palmer  and  the  Begam. 
His  tablet  is  eulogistic  of  his  third 
wife,  on  whose  fortune  he  was  supported 
after  the  failure  of  the  house. 

The  Parade-grotmd  at  Secunderabad 
is  of  immense  extent,  and  admits  of  a 
large  brigade  manoeuvring  upon  it. 
On  the  N.  side  are  many  officers' 
houses,  the  railway  station,  which  is 
handsomely  built  of  granite,  and  the 


church,  which  is  large  enoagh  to  hoi 
a  European  regiment.  On  the  S.  sii 
of  the  Parade-ground  is  the  cemetez] 
in  which  a  vast  number  of  officers  ai 
buried.  The  Assembly  Rooms  ai 
theatre  are  conveniently  situated  i 
the  Parade-ground.  Near  the  fonrt 
is  the  Mud  Fort^  in  which  some  arti 
lery  are  quartered. 

At  Trimalgiri,  3  m.  N.£.  of  Sceoi 
derabad,  is  an  entrenched  camp.  Iti 
so  placed  that  the  Europeans  in  Bolani 
and  Secunderabad  could  at  once  retii 
into  it.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  ditcli< 
ft.  deep,  and  a  rampart  rising  from  i 
inner  side  of  the  ditch  to  the  height  j 
7  ft,  with  a  stone  revetment.  TlMl 
are  several  bastions  on  which  guns  il 
mounted,  and  also  a  bomb-proof.  H 
camp  is  well  supplied  with  water  fM 
wells,  and  has  a  commissariat  stai 
and  bakery.  The  Military  Prison  h$ 
is  popularly  called  Windsor  Casth 
from  its  high  tower  and  castelUtI 
look.  This  prison  stands  due  W.  i 
the  S.W.  bastion  of  the  entrenchmeril 
The  HospiUU  for  the  European  m 
fantry,  a  handsome  white  buildiog 
is  due  S.  of  the  S.E.  bastion. 

Bolaram  is  the  militaiy  cantonmenl 
of  the  Hyderabad  Contingent  Foroa 
It  is  situated  6  m.  N.  of  Secunderabad 
and  11m.  from  the  city  of  Hyderabad, 
and  is  1890  ft.  above  sea-level. 

[EZCUBSIONS  FROM   HyDEBABAS. 

(1)  TheTombof  M.  Raymond,  atSaroT 
Nagar. — This  will  require  a  whole  morn- . 
ing  or  evening.  The  traveller  will  driw 
or  ride  across  the  Oliphant  Bridge,  and 
proceed  3^  m«  to  the  S.  E.  of  the  city  Bud 
into  the  suburb  of  Sarwv  Nagar.  He 
will  thus  have  arrived  in  the  hunting- 
grounds  of  H.H.  the  Nizam.  TAe 
country  here  is  accidentdj  rough  ground 
with  woods  enclosed  in  stone  walls, 
about  7  ft.  high.  Innumerable  herds 
of  black  buck  and  spotted  deer  wander 
over  this  track  undisturbed,  for  no  one 
may  fire  at  them  without  permission, 
and  all  they  have  to  dread  is  an  occaaionil 
chase  from  the  hunting  leopard,  and 
now  and  then  a  few  shots  from  some 
distinguished  sportsman.  There  is  i 
carriage -road  passing  through  then 
grounds.    The  traveller  will  soon  pe^ 


ROUTS  26.       GOLKONDA 


349 


Iftive  BaymondPs  Tombf  which  stands 
m  very  high  ground.  At  the  foot  of 
;bis  eminence  is  a  rest-house  for 
[ndians,  open  in  front  On  the  high 
ground  above  this,  on  a  spacious 
ikabutanrah^  or  terrace,  is  an  obelisk  of 
ttay  stone,  25  ft.  high,  with  simply  the 
M^rs  J.  K  on  each  side.  Farther 
3.,  at  the  end  of  the  chahutarah,  is  an 
ddifice  like  a  Grecian  temple,  where 
travellers  may  repose  and  enjoy  the 
pir,  which  is  here  comparatively  cool, 
Bven  in  August.  No  date  is  recorded  ; 
bat  the  eallant  Frenchman  in  whose 
honour  tnis  fine  structure  has  been 
meoted  died  iii  March  1798.  General 
Baymond  served  for  several  years  under 
Byder  'Ali.  At  the  time  of  his  death 
be  had  15,000  well -disciplined  troops 
ftt  his  command,  and  possessed  more 
power  than  the  British  Itesident.  Each 
unniversary  of  Raymond's  death  is 
Delebrated  at  the  tomb  by  a  grand 
wraSy  which  is  attended  by  some 
thousands  of  irregular  troops  from 
the  city.  The  tomb  and  platform  are 
illuminated,  salutes  are  fired,  and 
Btories  are  told  of  the  greatness  and 
kindness  of  Mvsa  Bahim  (son  of  Moses), 
as  he  is  called. 

It  is  here  that  the  hunting  with 
leopards  takes  place.  The  leopards  are 
generally  taken  in  pstirs,  and  are  hooded, 
until  a  black  buck  passes  near  enough 
to  be  chased.  The  run  is  generally  for 
about  400  yds.,  when  the  leopard  over- 
takes its  victim,  strikes  it  to  the  ground, 
and  sucks  blood  from  its  neck. 

Hyderabad  maintains  a  considerable 
manufacture  of  textile  fabrics,  carpets, 
velvets  for  horse -trappings,  and  a 
material  composed  of  cotton  and  silk, — 
for  Mohammedans  must  not  wear  pure 
silk.  Bed  earthenware  is  also  exten- 
sively made  here. 

(2)  GOLKONDA,  7  m.  from  the  Char 
Minar,  was  the  capital  of  the  Kutb 
Shahi  kingdom,  1512-1687,  overthrown 
oy  Aurangzib.  Few  persons  succeed  in 
obtaining  a  pass  to  visit  the  Fort  with- 
out the  aid  of  the  Residency  officials. 
The  passes,  when  granted,  are  issued 
by  the  Commandant  of  the  Fort,  who 
lives  usually  in  Hyderabad.  There  is 
no  use  in  going  without  a  pass  to  see 
the  Fort,  but  the  tombs  of  the  kings 


maybe  visited.  The  place  is  surrounded 
by  a  strongly-buUt  crenellated  stone 
wall  or  curtain,  a  little  over  3  m.  in 
circumference,  with  87  bastions  of  solid 
granite  blocks  at  the  angles,  on  which 
there  are  still  some  of  the  old  Kutb 
Shahi  guns,  some  with  their  breeches 
blown  out,  others  with  iron  rods  thrust 
into  them  by  the  Emperor  Aurangzib's 
orders  in  1687  to  render  them  useless. 
The  moat  which  surrounds  the  outer 
wall  is  choked  up  with  rubbish  in  many 
places.  The  Fort,  now  used  as  the 
Kizam's  treasury  and  a  state  prison, 
originally  had  eight  gates,  but  of  these 
four  only  are  now  in  use,  namely,  the 
Banjara,  Fateh,  Mecca,  and  Jamali. 
When  the  first  of  the  Nizams  took 
possession  of  the  place,  he  added  a  new 
wall  to  the  fortifications  on  the  E.,  so 
as  to  include  a  small  hill  formerly  situ- 
ated outside  the  Fort  walls,  from  which 
it  would  have  been  difficult  to  dislodge 
an  enemy  that  had  occupied  the  posi- 
tion. The  large  sheet  of  water  in  front 
of  this  portion  of  the  Fort  is  styled  the 
Nizam  Saugar  Tank, 

The  Banjara  Oate,  which  now  forms 
one  of  the  chief  entrances  to  the  Fort, 
is  a  massive  structure  of  granite,  with 
chambers  on  either  side  for  the  guard, 
and  a  pair  of  high  teak -wood  gates 
studded  with  iron  wrought  into 
various  fanciful  devices  and  huge 
sharp -pointed  iron  spikes,  which  were 
intended  to  prevent  elephants  from 
battering  them  in.  The  road  from 
here  passes  straight  through  the  Fort 
to  the  gate  on  the  W.  side.  The  north- 
em  portion  of  the  ground  enclosed 
by  the  wall  has  very  few  ruins  upon 
it,  although  it  was  at  one  time  most 
thickly  populated  ;  indeed,  the  ground 
inside  the  walls  is  said  to  have  been 
so  valuable  that  it  used  to  sell  for  one 
ashrafi  (20  rs.)  per  yard.  The  eastern 
and  southern  portions  are  strewn  with 
the  ruins  of  palaces,  mosques,  and  the 
dwelling-houses  of  the  nobles  and  re- 
tainers of  the  Kutb  Shahi  kings.  A 
short  distance  from  the  gate  just  men- 
tioned is  a  huge  stone  cistern.  Beyond 
the  cavalry  lines  are  the  Nau  Mahal 
(nine  palaces)  of  the  Nizams.  They 
are  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and 
stand  in  the  midst  of  a  pleasant  garden 


360 


ROtJTB  ^6.       WAM  JUNCttON  TO  BEZWADa 


India 


of  orange  and  other  fruit  trees.  The 
ooart  tii^  frequently  to  be  held  here. 

Beyond  the  Nau  Mahal  the  ruins 
thicken.  It  is,  however,  impossible  to 
identify  most  of  them.  There  is  a 
lofty  granite  structure,  said  to  have 
been  used  as  a  Nakar  Kfuma  (music- 
room),  or  Madrissa  (college),  which 
forms  the  entrance  to  the  firat  line  of 
the  BaJa  Sisar,  or  citadel  fortifica- 
tion. A  little  to  the  right  of  this  is 
the  Jumma  Musjid,  a  small  building. 
An  Arabic  inscription  over  the  gateway 
states  that  it  was  erected  in  1569  A.D. 

The  BcUa  Hisar  is  on  the  summit 
of  the  hill,  enclosed  by  the  Fort  waUs. 
Its  height  above  the  plain  may  be 
roughly  estimated  at  400  ft.  Passing 
through  a  garden,  the  Bala  Hisar 
Gate  18  reached.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  Fort,  and  has  been  put 
in  good  repair.  Adjoining  the  gate- 
way on  the  right  side  are  the  ruins 
of  the  quarters  of  the  garrison  main- 
tained nere  in  the  time  of  the  Eutb 
Shahi  monarchs.  Opposite  the  quarters 
of  the  garrison  is  a  vast  upper-storied 
building  of  granite,  oalled  the  Sili 
KhanoLf  or  armoury,  where  spare  arms 
and  ammunition  were  kept.  From 
here  the,  ascent  to  the  summit  is 
accomplished  hv  a  series  of  roughly- 
paved  steps.  Half-way  up  is  a  large 
well,  from  which  the  gamson  used  to 
get  its  water-supply. 

A  short  distance  from  here  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Amhar  Khana^  or  kind's 
treasure-house.  A  block  of  granite 
which,  has  fallen,  from  its  position  over 
the  entrance  contains  a  Persian  in- 
scription to  the  effect  that  it  was 
erected  in  the  reign  of  Abdullah  Kutb 
Shah,  1642  A.D.  Here  the  last  line  of 
wall  which  encircles  the  citadel  is 
reached.  In  its  construction  advantage 
has  jbeen  taken  of  the  huge  boulders, 
which  have  in  some  instances  been  made 
the  bases  of  the  wall.  The  masonry 
must  be  several  hundred  years  old. 

On  the'summit  of  the  hill  formerly 
stood  the  Kvng's  Palace^  the  ruins  of 
which  still  form  a  conspicuous  object. 
The  front  appears  to  have  been  oc- 
cupied by  a  large  courtyard,  sur- 
rounded by  builmngs,  very  few  of 
which,  however,  now  remain.     On  the 


W.  side  are  the  ruins  of  the  palace, 
the  walls  of  which  are  of  a  great  thick- 
ness. The  building  appears  to  have 
been  supported  on  lof^  arches,  most 
of  which  are  still  standing.  In  one 
comer  there  is  a  large  circular  opening, 
said  to  be  tiie  entrance  of  a  subtenaneaD 
passage  extending  to  the  Gosha  Mahal, 
3  m.  mstant  Most  probably,  howeyer, 
the  passage,  if  there  is  one,  extends 
only  as  far  as  the  lower  fortificatioBB. 
A  stone  staircase  in  the  W.  side  of  tk 
building  leads  to  the  roof,  which  is  flat; 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  small  stone 
takhb,  or  throne. 

The  xiew  from  here,  embracing  as  it 
does  many  miles  of  country,  is  at  all 
times  charming,  and  well  worth  the 
rather  fatiguing  climb  from  below. 
To  the  K  lies  the  present  capital, 
Hyderabad,  surrounded  with  ^ouoi^ 
from  amidst  which  domes  and  amies 
shoot  up  towards  the  sky  ;  in  the  !bn> 
eround  is  the  beautiful  Mir  'Alam  Tank; 
far  away  to  the  N.  is  the  cantomnent 
of  Secunderabad  and  the  Koh  Sheriff 
(Maul  Ali  hill).  Below  lie  the  ruins 
of  the  once  famous  Kutb  Shahi  capital, 
intersected  with  the  massive-looking 
fortifications  which  gave  Aurangm 
much  more  trouble  than  he  antidpatq^ 
and  which,  but  for  treachery  within, 
would  probably  have  resistea  all  his 
efforts.  In  the  Lower  Fort,  on  the  N. 
side,  there  is  a  deer  preserve  belonging 
to  H.H.  the  Nizam,  who  sometimes 
comes  to  shoot  here.  In  the  plain 
outside  the  walls  of  the  Fort  are  the 
remains  of  two  stone  platforms  with 
seats,  from  which  the  kings  used  to 
review  their  troops.  1  m.  to  the  N.  W., 
built  upon  two  eminences,  are  the 
BaraMaH  and  Mu^id  of  BagmaU 
(after  whom  Hyderabad  was  first 
called  Bhagnagar),  a  favourite  mis- 
tress of  the  Kutb  Shah  king,  Muham- 
mad Kuli.  Beyond  the  Baigaia  Gate 
are  the  massive  tombs  of  all  the 
Golkonda  kin^  On  aU  sides  rise 
masses  of  granite  and  low  hills,  taking 
the  most  fantastic  shapes,  and  some- 
times appearing  like  subsidiaiy  forts 
erected  by  the  hand  of  man.  The  I 
popular  legend  as  regards  the  pecoli-  j 
arity  of  their  position  and  appeaianoe 
is  that  the  Creator  After  fizusbing  ths 


tlOtJTE  25.       OOLKOJ^bA 


S51 


Bonstrnotioii  of  the  world  threw  away 
the  surplus  material  here. 

The  Kings'  Tombs. — On  the  plain 
to  the  N.  and  K,  about  600  yds.  from 
&e  fortress,  stand  the  tombs  of  the 
Kutb  Shahi  kings,  who  reigned  here 
for  upwards  of  170  years.  Most  of 
&em  nave  suffered  from  decay  and  the 
hands  of  visitors,  who  have  not 
Bcrapled  to  plunder  the  enamelled  tiles 
and  other  architectural  adornments 
which  once  contributed  to  place  them 
among  the  best  and  most  remarkable 
Mohammedan  mausolea  in  the  Deccan. 

During  the  long  siege  of  Golkonda 
in  1687  the  tombs  and  the  gardens 
which  surrounded  them  were  converted 
into  barracks  and  camping-grounds  by 
Aurangzib's  soldiers.  It  is  said  that 
pieces  of  artillery  were  also  mounted 
upon  them  wherewith  to  bombard  the 
Fort.  The  last  of  the  Kutb  Shahi 
kings,  Abu-'l-Hassan,  had  partly  finished 
the  erection  of  his  own  sepulchre,  when 
he  was  sent  off  by  his  imperial  captor 
to  end  his  d^s  in  the  fortress  of 
Daulatabad.  He  died  there  in  1701, 
and  is  the  only  one  of  the  Kutb  Shahis 
not  interred  here.  His  unfinished 
tomb  is  the  farthest  from  the  Fort,  and 
is  completely  in  ruins.  After  the 
departure  of  the  captive  king  and  his 
conqueror,  the  tombs,  neglected  and 
deserted,  soon  began  to  show  signs  of 
decay.  In  this  condition  they  re- 
mained till  the  late  Sir  Salar  Jang 
had  those  that  were  not  too  much 
ruined  carefully  repaired,  and  re- 
planted the  gardens  which  had  formerly 
existed  around  some  of  them.  The 
late  minister  also  enclosed  seven  tombs, 
which  are  all  built  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  each  other,  with  a  substantial 
stone  wall,  and  planted  the  gardens, 
through  which  pleasantly  laid -out 
walks  lead  to  each  tomb,  with  fine 
shade  and  fruit  trees.  The  tombs 
standing  within  this  enclosure  are 
those  of  Jamshid  Kuli,  the  second 
king,  who  died  in  1550 ;  Haiyat  Baksh 
Begam,  the  daughter  of  Ibrahim  Kuli 
Kutb  Shah,  and  the  wife  of  Sultan 
Muhammad,  the  fifth  king,  and  the 
mother  of  Saltan  Abdulla  Kutb  Shah, 
fhe  sixth  and  last  but  one  of  the  Kutb 
Bhahi  Une  (the  date  of  her  death,  as  in- 


scribed on  the  tomb,  is  1027  A.H.  =>  1617 
A.D.),  etc  Outside  the  walled  en- 
closure and  garden,  to  the  N.,  is  the 
tomb  of  Muhammad  Kuli  Kutb  Shah, 
who  died  in  1035  A.  H.  =  1625  A.D.  This 
king  founded  the  city  of  Hyderabad, 
and  erected  many  public  edifices  and 
palaces.  This  is  the  finest  of  the 
tombs,  and  is  168  ft  high  from  the 
basement  to  the  summit  of  the  dome, 
the  latter  being  60  ft.  high.  Beyond 
this  is  the  tomb  of  Ibrahim  Kuli  Kutb 
Shah,  the  fourth  king,  who  died  in 
988  A.  H.  =  1580  A.  D.  To  the  S.  of  it  is 
the  tomb  of  Sultan  Muhammad  Amin, 
king  Ibrahim's  youngest  son,  who  died 
in  1004  A.  H.  =  1595  A.D.  A  short  dis- 
tance from  here  in  a  N.  direction  is  the 
tomb  of  Kulsum  Begam,  and  close  to 
it  is  that  of  the  first  of  the  Kutb 
Shahi  kings.  Sultan  Kuli  Kutb,  who 
died  in  950  a.h.  =  1543  A.D.  Between 
the  walled  enclosure  already  alluded  to 
and  the  Fort  walls  is  the  tomb  of  the 
sixth  king,  Abdulla  Kutb  Shah,  who 
died  in  1083  a.h.  =  1672  A.D.,  after  a 
reign  of  forty-eight  years.  This  is  6ne 
of  the  finest  tombs  here,  being  enriched 
with  very  fine  carvings  and  minarets 
at  each  comer  of  the  platform. 

The  diamoTuis  of  Golkonda,  which 
have  become  proverbial,  were  cut  and 
polished  here,  but  came  principally 
from  Purtial,  on  the  S.E.  frontier  of 
the  Nizam's  territory,  and  KoUur  in  the 
Kistna  district 

(3)  78  m.  by  road  N.W.  of  Hydera- 
bad is  the  renowned  city  of  Bidar. 
The  majority  of  the  palaces,  mosques, 
and  other  buildings  with  which  the 
Bahmani  kings  (who  were  overthrown 
by  the  Kutb  Shahi  dynasty  in  1512) 
adorned  their  capital  are  now  in  ruins, 
but  there  is  enough  remaining  to  give 
an  idea  of  the  former  magnincence  of 
the  place.  The  Madrissa,  or  college, 
and  the  Mosqiie  are  amongst  the  most 
remarkable.  The  walls  are  fine  and 
are  well  preserved.  Bidar  is  famous 
for  ornamental  metal,  called  Bidri- 
work.  The  metal  is  composed  of  an 
alloy  of  copper,  lead,  tin,  and  zinc. 
It  is  worked  into  fancy  articles  orna- 
mented with  silver  and  gold.] 

Leaving  Secunderabad,  the  Nieam't 
State  Riy.  continues  E.  to 


362 


ROUTE  25a.       BEZWABA  TO  VIZAGAPATAM 


India 


208  m.  Warangal  sta.,  whence  a 
line  N.  up  the  Godavari  valley  to 
join  the  G.I. P.  Rly.  at  Warora  is 
in  progress.  Warangal  (pop.  3400) 
vna  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Hindu 
kingdom  of  Telingana,  and  the  scene 
of  many  struggles  between  the  Hindu 
and  Mohammedan  powers  previous 
to  its  absorption  into  the  Golkonda 
kinplom  in  the  16th  century.  The 
antiquarian  will  find  here  interesting 
remams  of  Chalukyan  architecture, 
especially  4  so-called  Kirti  StanibhaSj 
or  archways,  facing  one  another,  as  if 
forming  the  entrance  to  some  enclosure, 
but  their  purpose  is  not  known.  There 
are  many  small  shrines  here  and  also 
at  Hammoncondah  (6  m.  N.),  the  old 
capital,  which  possesses  the  remains  of 
a  nne  metropolitan  temple  dated  1163.^ 
Warangal  has  long  been  celebrated  for 
its  carpets  and  rugs.  The  *'shatrangis" 
are  woven  from  cotton  twist. 

261  m.  Domakaljunc.  sta.  [Branch 
to  Yellanda  14  m.  where  are  coal  mines, 
on  which  8000  coolies  are  at  work  ;  and 
rich  beds  of  iron  ore.] 

818  m.  British  Frontier  sta.  (R.) 

828  m.  Kondapatti  sta.  Ruins  of  a 
once  celebrated  fortress,  built  in  a.d. 
1360.  It  was  taken  by  Anrungzeb  in 
1687  and  by  the  British,  under  General 
Caillaud,  in  1766. 

338  m.  Beiwada  or  Eistna  sta.  (R.), 
D.  B. ,  see  p.  358.  [Branch  to  Guntakal 
June.  p.  334.]  This  is  the  terminus  of 
the  Nizam's  State  Railway.  The  travel- 
ler proceeds  by  the  East  Coast  Rly.  to 

375  m.  EUore  sta.  (R.)  Formerly 
capital  of  the  Northern  Circars,  it  is 
now  famous  only  for  its  carpets.  The 
Godavery  and  Eistna  Canal  systems 
join  here. 

429  m.  Godavwy.  From  here  there 
is  a  steam  ferry  across  the  Godavery  to 
Rajahmundry,  but  a  big  railway  bridge 
(56  spans  of  150  feet)  is  about  to  oe 
erected. 

431  m.  Bajahmundry.  (R)  (pop. 
20, 000).  It  is  the  old  seat  of  the  Orissa 
Rings  in  the  S.  and  of  the  Venzi  Eings. 
It  contains  a  large  jail,   a  museum, 

fublic  gardens,  and  a  provincial  College, 
t  is  regarded  by  the  Telugus  as  their 
ohief  town.    The  Gorge,  20  to  30  miles 
1  Fergnsgon,  p.  889. 


up,  wliere  the  Godavery  issues  from 
the  hills ,  is  well  worth  a  visit  as  it 
forms  one  of  the  most  beautiful  pieces 
of  scenery  in  Southern  India — a  succes- 
sion of  Highland  lochs  in  an  Eastern 
setting.  A  few  miles  down  the  river 
from  Rajahmundry  are  the  head-works 
of  the  magnificent  Godavezr  Delta 
Irrigation  system  first  designed  by  Sir 
Arthur  Cotton, — ^the  amdeut,  or  dam, 
is  a  huge  piece  of  masonry  4  miles  in 
length  from  bank  to  bank. 

461  m.  Samalkot  sta.  junc.  for 
Coomoada  Town  8  m.  and  Coeaaada 
Port  10  m.,  connected  with  the  Godaveiy 
R  by  navigable  canals.  Cocanada  is 
the  principal  port,  after  Madras,  on 
the  Ck>romandei  Coast  and  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Godavery  District 
Ships  lie  in  safety  in  the  Boadt 
(Coringa  Bay)  which,  though  shallow, 
are  protected  to  the  south  by  a  sandy 
promontory  at  the  mouths  of  tbs 
Godavery.  The  jetties  and  wharves 
and  business  houses  are  on  the  banks 
of  a  canal  leading  into  the  Roads,  and 
connected  with  the  Delta  canal  system. 

495  m.  Tuni  sta.  (R.) 

554  m.  Waltair  junc.  sta.  [Short 
branch  for 

VizagapatamiOt  2m.  Yizagapatam, 
the  chief  town  of  the  District  of  that 
name,  is  a  growing  seaport,  situated 
on  a  small  estuary  of  which  the  pro- 
montory at  the  S.  extremity  is  called 
the  Dolphm*8  Nose,  The  estuary  forms 
the  only  naturally  protected  harbour 
on  the  C^oromandel  Coast,  but  the  bar 
is  too  shallow  to  admit  vessels  of  deep 
draught  and  consequently  they  have  to 
anchor  outside.  Most  of  the  Europeaii 
residents  live  in  the  suburb  of  Waltair 
to  the  N.  of  the  town,  which  stands  on 
elevated  ground  composed  of  red  later- 
ite  rocks.  Yizagapatam  and  Waltair 
are  extremely  beautiful  viewed  from 
the  sea.  The  manufacture  of  panjam 
cloth  is  a  speciality  of  the  District,  as 
that  of  ornamental  articles  of  ivory, 
buffalo-hnrn,  and  silver  filigree  work  is 
of  the  town. 

18  m.  N.  £.  of  Yizagapatam  is 
Bimlapatam  (pop.  10,000)  a  thriving 
port  wnere  coasting  steamers  touch.] 

592  m.  Vizianagram  (R.)  the  dusf 
town  of  one  of  the   most    etztsnsiw 


BOUTS  26.   GADAG  JUNCTION  TO  BEZWADA 


353 


Zemindari  estates  in  India.  The  Town 
consists  of  the  Cantonment  on  rising 
ground  and  the  Fort  (1  mile  distant) 
Smost  entirely  occnpied  by  the  Palace 
BuHdingSj  etc,  oi  the  Maharaja. 
Halfway  between  the  Fort  and  Canton- 
ment is  a  large  tank  possessing  a  con- 
stant supply  of  water.  The  Market 
was  built  to  commemorate  the  visit  of 
H.E.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

636  m.  Chicaeole  Boad  sta.  for 
Chicacole,  a  large  town  which  contains 
a  noble  mosaue  ouilt  in  1641  by  Sheer 
Mahomed  Knan,  the  first  Mussalman 
Fai:gdan.  In  1791  Chicaeole  was  nearly 
depopulated  by  famine,  and  it  again 
suffered  severely  in  1866.  In  1876  a 
flood  swept  away  six  arches  of  the 
Langulya  Bridge.  It  was  formerly 
celebrated  on  account  of  its  very  fine 
mnslins. 

727  m.  B«rhampur  sta.  (R.)  chief 
town  of  the  Gai^am  District  (pop. 
30,000).  It  is  noted  for  its  tussur  silk 
cloths  and  gold-embroidered  turbans. 

740  m.  Chatrapur  sta.,  beautifully 
situated  on  high  ground  above  the  sea, 
headquarters  of  the  District  Magistrate 
ftnd  Collector.  A  canal  runs  parellel 
with  the  sea-shore  to  Gopalpur,  the 
3hief  seaport  of  the  Ganjam  District. 

750  m.  Humma  sta.  for  Oa^jam, 
which  is  situated  on  the  Rushkuliya. 
3ranjam  was  formerly  chief  port  and 
;own  of  the  District,  but  in  the  early 
3art  of  the  century  it  was  ravaged  by 
in  epidemic  of  fever  and  abandoned  in 
K>iisequence.  There  are  many  ruins  of 
landsome  buildings  that  once  adorned 
t.  The  Fort,  which  was  commenced 
n  1768  by  Mr.  Cotsford,  the  first 
Resident  in  Ganjam,  still  forms  an 
nteresting  ruin,  and  recals  memories 
»f  former  Residents  and  Chiefs  in 
;:;oiiiicil,  who  were  engaged  here  partly 
n  political,  and  partly  in  commercial, 
tnterprises  for  the  Fast  India  Company. 
Vhe  adjoining  cemetery  contains  some 
nteresting  old  monuments. 

756  m.  Bambha  sta.  for  the  southern 
>nd  of  the  Chilka  Lake,  which  extends 
lorth wards  for  40  miles  into  the  Bengal 
>roYinoe  of  Orissa,  the  frontier  village 
)eing  Bnrcool.  The  Lake  averages  10 
niles  in  width,  and  is  separated  by  a 
larrow  stretch  of  sand  from  the  sea. 


Its  scenery  is  of  surpassing  beauty,  in 
the  background  being  the  jungle-clad 
hills  of  the  Eastern  Ghats.  It  is 
dotted  with  islands  on  which,  as  on 
the  mainland,  game  of  all  kinds  abound, 
while  in  the  cold  season  its  surface  is 
crowded  with  wild -fowl  of  many 
varieties.  The  Lake  is  shallow,  seldom 
exceeding  6  feet  in  depth.  The.  water 
is  brackish,  and  there  is  a  very  slight 
tide  at  the  southern  end,  the  sea 
running  into  it  at  Manickpatnam. 
The  trade  is  carried  on  in  flat-bottomed 
boats  of  peculiar  structure  with  lateen 
sails  of  bamboo-matting.  At  Rambha 
there  is  a  large  house  on  the  margin  of 
the  lake  built  by  Mr.  Snodgrass  in  1792 : 
it  is  believed,  from  Famine  funds.  It  is 
now  the  property  of  Mr.  Minchin,  pro- 
prietor of  a  oistQleiy  and  sugar  factory 
at  Aska  in  the  interior  of  the  District. 

770  m.  Burcool.  The  frontier  sta. 
between  the  Madras  and  Bengal  Presi- 
dencies. 

818  m.  Khnrda  Road  junc.  sta.  for 
Pari,  or  Jagaanatb  (branch  line  47  m.). 
Puri  is  one  of  the  chief,  if  not  the  chief, 
place  of  Hindu  pilgrimage  in  India. 
(Seep.  277.) 

830  m.  Bhuyaneshwar  sta.,  see  p.  283. 

840  m.  Barang  sta.,  see  Outtack 
sta.,  p.  288.  The  rly.  crosses  the  Ma- 
hanadi  River  to  Cuttack.  The  rlv.  line 
is  now  completed  from  here  to  Calcutta, 
286  m.,  but  there  was  not  time  to  de- 
scribe it  before  going  to  press  with  this 
edition.  

ROUTE  26 

Gadag  Junction   to  Vijayanagar 
.    {Bijanagar\  Bellary,  Guntakal 
Junction,  and  Bezwada. 

This  route  is  the  £.  portion  of  the 
railway  that  crosses  the  peninsula  of 
India  from  Marmagoa  on  the  W.  coast 
to  Bezwada,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Kistna  River,  on  the  E.  The  W.  por- 
tion is  described  in  Rte.  22. 

Gadag  junct.  sta.  (R.),  D.B.  [Branch 
via  Bijapur  to  Hotgi  junct.  on  the 
G.LP.  Rly.] 

53  m.  Hospet  sta.  (R.).  D.B. 
From  this  point  Vijayanaga/r  and 
ffampi  (9  m.)  cap  vxmt  conveniently 
be  visited. 

2a 


354 


BOUTB  26.       OADAG  JUNCTION  TO  BBZWADA 


Mia 


[Bzoanioii  to  vyayaiiAffar 
(BUanaflfar)  and  HampL  « 

Hampi  is  the  site  of  the  ancient 
capital  of  the  Y^'ayanagar  kings,  ^  who 
dominated  South  India  from  1118  to 
1564  A.D.  The  ruins  cover  6  sq.  m., 
including  Kamalapur  on  the  S.  and 
Anagundi,  the  latter  seat  of  the  dyn- 
as^  N.  of  the  Tungabhadia  Biyer. 

Kamalapur  D.B. ,  is  7  m.  N.  E.  from 
Hospet.     An  old  temple  has  been  con- 


whoeedescendants  flourished  heretiUtfae 
battle  of  Talikot,  1564,  and  afterwardsat 
Anaffundi,  YeUore,  and  Ohandragiii  for 
ano&er  centniy,  until  finally  over- 
whelmed by  the  adyancing  Mohun- 
medan  powers  of  Bnapnr  and  Golkondi 
During  the  two  and  a  quarter  centuna 
that  tiie  Y^ayanagar  Rajas  held  the 
city  of  Hampi  they  extended  it  and 
beautified  it  with  palaces  and  temples. 
The  traveller  Csesar  Frederick,  who 


VUATAMAQAB,    HaMPI,  AND  AHAOUNDI. 

1.  Commencement  of  Bridge,  r    4.  Temple  of  Veerpaksh.  t 

S.  Bains  of  old  Bridge.  5.  Temple  on  high  pile  of  rocks. 

8.  Temple  of  Vitoba.  i    A.  King's  Sleeping  Palace.  j 


7.  Statae  of  Ganesh. 

8.  Temple  of  KiishM. 


verted  into  a  D.B.  There  is  a  good 
road  from  Kamalapur  to  Hampi,  which 
winds  round  the  rocky  hills  between 
which  the  old  city  was  built.  The  site 
is  watered  by  a  channel  from  the  river. 
Hampi  was  founded  on  the  fall  of 
the  BaUala  dynasty,  about  1386  a.d., 
by  two  brothers,  Bukka  and  Harihara, 
who  had  been  driven  out  of  Warangal, 

1  No  one  interested  in  the  History  of  Vtjay- 
anagar  should  fUl  to  consult  Mr.  Sewell's  book 

~*        ^<ect,  A  FvrgoUen  Bmpirt,  1900. 


saw  the  city  at  the  zenith  of  its  proe- 
perity,  describes  it  as  being24  m.  round, 
enclosing  several  hills.  The  ordinary 
dwellings  were  mean  buildings  with 
earthen  walls ,  but  the  three  pauMMS  and 
the  pagodas  were  all  built  of  fine  marble. 
The  first  remarkable  building  is  the 
King's  or  Ladies'  Bath,  forming  a  por 
tion  of  the  king's  pidace.  It  is  a  net- 
angular  building,  about  i  m.  from  tfat 
D.  B.,  with  a  hauz,  or  reservoir,  in  the 


BOUTE  26.      EXCURSION  TO  VIJATANAGAR  AND  HAHPI 


355 


oomtre  50  ft.  square  and  6  ft.  deep,  in 
'whioh  fountains  played ;  but  there  is  no 
water  now,  and  uiis  stmcture  has  been 
a  good  deal  injured.  At  the  entranoe 
are  remains  of  the  granite  aqueduct 
-wliicli  was  carried  from  near  the  throne 
to  the  bath.  The  corridor  of  the  bath, 
sapported  by  twenty  pillars,  has  an 
arcned  ceiling,  richly  carved  with 
flo^irers.  On  either  side  is  a  projeotinff 
gallery  ornamented  with  carving.  N.W. 
of  this  is  a  granite  aqueduct.  The 
stones  forming  the  trough  measure 
about  11  ft.  X  6  ft.,  the  supports  are  5 
ft.  8  in.  high.  About  1000  yds.  N.  W. 
of  the  aqueiduct  is  a  duster  of  remains, 
inoluding  the  ElqphatU  Stables,  the 
ZefMtTia,  the  Treasury,  rather  mean 
buildings  of  Tipu  Sultan's  time,  and 
a  stmcture  which  the  guide  calls  the 
TlMrone.  It  is  of  granite,  and  consists 
of  a  sucoession  of  matforms  31  ft.  high, 
the  outer  walls  of  which  are  carved  in 
relief  with  representations  of  elephants, 
dancing-girls,  huntinff-scenes  from  the 
Hamayuna,  and  camels,  well  executed. 
About  100  yds.  to  the  N.  is  a  Temple, 
The  pillars  are  handsomely  carved  in 
relief^  with  figures.  The  quadrangle, 
inside  measurement,  is  110  ft  from  N. 
to  S.,  and  200  ft  from  E.  to  W.  The 
temple  has  a  vestibule  carried  on 
twe^hre  pillars.  The  adytum  is  sup- 
ported Dy  black  pillars  most  elabor- 
ately carved.  On  the  plinth  of  the 
loft  gateway  is  a  verv  long  inscription 
in.  Old  Kanarese.  The  stones  of  which 
this  temple  is  built  average  7  ft.  7  in. 
long  and  2  ft.  6  in.  deep. 

rnie  second  day  may  be  spent  in  cross- 
ing the  ruins  from  S.  to  N. ,  that  is  from 
the  D.  B.  to  Anagondi,  a  distance  of  4  m. 
On  the  right  is  a  hill  crowned  with 
a   large  temple,  to  visit  which  is  the 
labour  of  a  day.     Farther  to  the  W.  is 
ipirhat  the  guide  calls  the  oldest  temple 
in    Vyayanagar.      Little  except   two 
gapuraa  (ornamented  gateways)  is  left. 
Round  the  door  of  the  first  gopura  is  a 
very  long  inscription  in  Old  Kanarese. 
In  thesecond  there  isalSTagri  inscription 
on  the  right,  and  a  Kanarese  on  the  left. 
,17he  bases  of  the  pillars  are  carved  to 
represent  a  man  rioing  on  a  yali,  which 
is    rearing  up.     The  extensive    ruins 
around  show  that  the  temple  to  which 


these  ffopuras  belonged  was  of  great 
size.  Jnear  here  on  a  granite  moimd 
stand  three  Javn,  BasHe :  observe  their 
turned  pillars  of  polished  black  stone, 
ornamented  with  graceful  beaded  fes- 
toons and  bells,  after  the  style  of  the 
beautiful  bastis  of  Srivanah  Belgula, 
and  Hullabid  (Rte.  27).  Beyond  this, 
in  the  same  direction,  is  what  is  called 
the  Kasbin  Bazaar,  with  a  stone  arcade 
on  either  side.  It  is  122  ft  broad  from 
E.  to  W.,  and  1127  ft  long  from  S.  to 
N.,  and  must  have  been  a  most  magni- 
ficent street  or  market-place.  About  J 
m.  from  this  is  a  solidly-built  Temple 
of  Bama,  on  the  bank  of  a  branch  of 
the  Tungabhadra  river,  100  yds.  broad, 
and  very  deep.  In  the  adytum  of  this 
temple  are  grotesque  modem  images  of 
Bama,  Laksnman,  Sita,  and  Hanuman. 
The  road  now  turns  to  the  right  along 
the  river.  A  vast  old  Mcdh,  or  monas- 
tery, is  now  passed  on  the  right,  which 
was  tenanted  till  about  1840.  About 
100  yds.  beyond  this  are  the  remains  of 
a  stone  bridge^  over  the  Tungabhadra, 
built  without  mortar,  clamp,  or  tenon. 
The  structure  is  a  simple  jam  and  cram 
of  rouffh  granite  blocks,  notched  at  the 
edges  by  a  process  of  quarrying  still  in 
practice.  A  line  of  small  hollows  is 
worked  in  a  smooth  surface  of  rock ;  a 
little  straw  is  burnt  over  the  hollows  ; 
water  is  poured  in,  and  the  rook  splits 
along  the  line  of  hollows  to  the  depth 
of  several  inches.  A  singular  structure 
of  granite  is  worthy  of  notice,  which 
the  guide  says  was  used  for  weighing 
goods,  but  more  probably  to  weigh 
great  personages  against  gold.  It  is 
made  of  three  granite  blocks,  two  up- 
rights and  a  transverse  piece^  The 
uprights  are  20  ft.  10  in.  high,  and  the 
thwart  piece  14  ft  7  in.  long. 

Some  200  yards  beyond  this  are 
three  granite  temples,  which  are 
called  the  WaZi,  the  Sugriva,  and  the 
Ta/ra — the  last-named  being  IJie  wife  of 
Wall  It  is,  however,  in  reality  very 
doubtful  to  which  deity  the  temples 
were  dedicated.  The  very  numerous 
carvincs  of  monkeys  in  one  of  the  three 
especiuly,  and  more  or  less  in  tiie 

1  There  are  remarkable  examples  of  these 
bridges  at  Seringapatam,  and  near  the  Falls 
of  the  Gauvery. 


356 


BOUTB  26.      OABAG  JmronOV  TO  BBZWADA 


India 


othen,  make  it  probable  tbat  they 
were  dedicated  to  Wali,  his  brother, 
and  his  wife.  Mr.  Fergoseon,  at  ^. 
374,  ascribes  to  Vttobay  a  local  mani- 
festation of  Yishnu,  the  one  which  the 
local  people  refer  to  Wali,  erected  1529- 
1542  A.D.,  bat  never  finished.^  The 
shrine  of  this  great  temple  was  never 
filled  ;  it  was  never  used  as  a  place  of 
worship,  nor  was  it  ever  formailj^  con- 
secrated. The  legend  is  that  in  the 
plenitude  of  their  i>ower  the  Rajas  of 
Vnayanagar  determined  to  brin^  the 
holy  image  of  Krishna  which  is  at 
Pandarpor  to  Yijayanagar,  and  built 
this  temple  to  exceed  in  beauty  every- 
thing before  erected  in  the  Deccan  to 
receive  it ;  but  whether  it  was,  as  the 
Brahmans  inform  visitors,  that  the  god 
would  not  move ;  or  that,  having  come 
to  look  at  the  new  temple,  said  it  was 
too  good  for  him ;  or  because  attention 
was  diverted  bv  serious  troubles  with 
the  Mohammedans,  the  removal  was 
never  accomplished.  The  three  temples 
stand  in  an  enclosure  which  has  four 
low  gopuras ;  they  are  good  examples 
of  the  Dravidian  style.  There  is  a 
stone  nUf  or  car,  dose  to  the  temple  on 
the  right,  as  you  enter  the  enclosure, 
and  two  stone  pavilions  for  lodging 
travellers.  The  stone  car  which  stands 
a  few  paces  from  the  temple  just 
described  is  26  ft  4  in.  hign,  sadly 
disfigured  in  1808  by  an  ill-judffed 
''restoration"  in  chunam.  The  dia- 
meter of  the  wheels  is  4  ft  8  in. 
Whether  the  car  was  ever  moved  is 
doubtful.  The  wheels  can  be  moved, 
and  tlie  sockets  in  which  the  axle  works 
are  worn  and  chafed  as  if  by  movement 

The  second  temple,  which  is  on  the 
left  of  the  entrance  into  the  enclosure, 
is  much  i^e  largest,  and  perhaps  the 
finest  The  ceiling  was  formed  of  slabs 
of  granite  85  ft  loxu^,  but  all  the  slabs 
have  been  thrown  down  except  one  in 
the  centre.  Two  slabs  stana  against 
the  wall,  2  ft.  6  in.  wide,  and  2  ft 
thick.  There  are  fourteen  columns, 
which  supported  the  roof.  Most  of 
them  are  carved  into  representations 

1  See  also  the  Indian  AnHquary,  vol.  11.  p. 
178,  vhich  gives  an  extract  ft-om  the  BeUary 
District  Manual,  by  J.  Kelsall,  M.C.8.,  which 
says :  "The  finest  temples  of  all  are  about  1 
m-  lower  down  the  river." 


of  horsemen  mounted  on  yalis.  One 
represents  the  Narsing  Avatar.  In 
some  cases  the  yalis  are  supported  by 
elephants.  The  pavement  consists  of 
huge  granite  slabs.  One  is  12  ft  7  in. 
long,  and  7  ft  7  in.  broad,  and  the 
others  are  about  that  size.  Within 
is  a  court  100  ft  long  from  K  to  W., 
and  62  ft  broad  from  N.  to  S.  Thii 
temple  is  thoufl^t  by  some  to  havs 
been  sacred  to  Vishnu,  and  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  Naning  Avatar  makes 
tUs  probable.  On  the  S.  side  are 
numerous  Eanarese  inscriptions.  S.  of 
the  temple  is  a  large  dharmsala  with 
sixty-two  pillars,  on  which  are  curious 
reliefs  of  female  monkeys  and  dwarfs, 
so  this  may  be  the  Tara  temple.  On 
the  riffht  of  the  entrance  is  a  platform 
with  tnirty-nine  shorter  pillars,  llieee 
were  carved  with  most  curious  represen- 
tations of  monkeys,  their  heads  crowned 
with  two  small  figures  of  gods.  The 
third  temple  is  some  20  yds.  N.  of  the 
rut.  It  is  probably  sacred  to  Wali  and 
Sugriva. 

From  this  the  traveller  may  go  1^  m. 
to  the  E.  to  the  bank  of  tiie  Tunga- 
bhadra  opposite  Anagundi.  There  ia 
a  large  tree  which  affords  some  shelter 
from  the  sun  while  waiting  for  the 
ferry-boats,  which  are  circular  baskets 
covered  with  bullock  hides  and  10  ft 
in  diameter,  the  Indian  form  of  oorade. 
They  will  each  take  twenty  persons,  or 
a  palki  with  twelve  bearers,  llie  boats 
are  safe  but  inconvenient  There  are 
some  inches  of  water  at  the  bottom  of 
the  basket,  and  passengers  sit  on  the 
edge  or  rim.  The  bed  of  the  river  and 
its  sides  are  very  rocky.  As  soon  as 
you  land  on  the  N.  side  you  are  in  the 
Nizam's  dominions.     80  yds.  from  the 

sheltered  by  a  tree,  and  10  yds.  &rther 
on  is  the  Gate  qfAnoff^mdi,  which  has 
been  a  fort  built  of  granite.  The  pcUaee 
of  the  Rajah  of  Anagundi,  who  is  also 
Raiah  of  Vijayanagar,  is  one-third  of  a 
mile  from  the  gate. 

Returning  to  the  S.  side  of  the  river, 
some  hours  may  be  devoted  to  a  visit 
to  the  Pagoda  on  the  high  hill  to  the 
E.  of  the  Kasbin  Bazaar,  but  the  miss 
are  not  interesting.  The  ascent  is 
excessively    sfeep,   and    the    Pagoda, 


ftOUDB  26.      TORAKAQtJLtU — BlCLtiAttY 


S5T 


which  18  sacred  to  Markand,  is  un- 
important, but  the  view  over  the  ruins 
will  repay  the  visitor  for  his  trouble. 

A,  day  must  be  given  to  the  W.  and 
N.W.  portion  of  the  ruins  of  Hampi, 
and  here  a  pony  mav  be  used.  About 
2  m.  along  the  road  running  W.  is  an 
ancient  temple  of  Shdva,  attested  by  a 
figure  of  Nandi  and  carvings  of  cobras. 
Seyond  this  to  the  W.  is  a  gigantic 
image  of  the  Narnng  Avatar,  carved 
out  of  a  single  block  of  granite.  The 
figure  is  that  of  a  colossal  lion-headed 
man  with  enormous  projecting  circular 
eyes  and  a  huge  mouth.  A  spirited 
carving  of  the  Shesh  Nag  forms  the 
canopy  of  the  idol,  which  is  seated, 
and  has  its  legs  and  arms  broken. 
From  the  top  of  the  Shesh  Nag  to  the 
floor  of  the  pedestal  on  which  the  idol 
sits  is  22  ft  6  in.  This  idol  is  in  an 
enclosure  of  ponderous  granite  blocks. 
The  monolithic  uprights  at  the  door 
are  18  ft.  8  in.  high  out  of  the  ground. 
Just  outside  the  gate  is  an  upright 
stone  with  a  Eanarese  inscription  on 
both  sides.  A  few  yards  from  this 
enclosure  is  a  smaU  temj^le  containing 
a  huge  Lingam  and  Yoni.  This  is  no 
doubt  the  largest  representative  of 
these  objects  of  worship  existing. 

Near  is  a  vast  temple  to.  Krishna. 
It  is  enclosed  by  a  granite  wall.  The 
breadth  of  the  chief  court  is  200  ft. 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  the  length  320  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  At  the  gopura  which 
forms  the  entrance  is  a  stone  8  ft. 
high,  with  a  Eanarese  inscription  on 
both  sides.  There  is  also  on  the  columns 
of  the  gopura  an  inscription  in  Nagri 
and  Eanarese.  About  50  yds.  from 
this  temple  off  the  road  is  a  temple 
with  a  huge  Ganesh  10  ft.  high ;  and 
a  few  yc£.  farther  another,  vastly 
solid,  built  of  granite,  dedicated  to 
Ganesh,  in  which  the  idol  is  18  ft. 
high.  The  visitor  will  remark  the 
size  of  the  enormous  granite  slabs 
which  form  the  roof.  After  passing 
this  temple,  the  precincts  of  what  is 
now  called  Hampi  are  entered,  and 
monkeys  of  the  Lamgv/r  kind,  but  not 
large,  here  show  themselves  in  con- 
siderable numbers.  The  visitor  should 
now  descend  for  70  yds.  a  granite 
pavement  cut  into  many  small  steps, 


and  pass  on  the  left  a  square  building 
which  may  have  been  a  maih.  He 
will  then  come  under  the  shade  of 
some  gigantic  trees  and  arrive  at  the 
portal  of  the  great  temple  of  Hampi, 
which  is  sacred  to  Shiva.  The  gopura 
at  the  N.  entrance  is  truly  gigantic, 
and  taken  in  all  its  dimensions  is 
perhaps  the  largest  in  India.  It  is  im- 
possible to  ascend  beyond  the  eleventh 
story,  but  from  the  basement  of  l^at 
to  the  ground  the  height  is  138  ft.  5  in., 
and  atove  it  there  is  solid  masongr  for 
30  or  40  ft  After  that  comes  the  Shikr, 
which  is  now  broken  but  must  have 
been  about  30  ft.  high,  so  that  when 
it  was  intact  the  total  height  must 
have  been  over  200  ft  The  gopura 
is  86  ft  from  E.  to  W.,  and  is  im- 
mensely solid.  The  length  of  the  first 
quadrangle  from  £.  to  W.  is  208  ft., 
and  its  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  134  ft 
The  second  quadrangle  is  larger,  and 
has  arcades  all  round  built  of  granite. 
The  authorities  of  the  temple  will  not 
allow  a  European,  excepting  officials, 
to  go  farther  than  a  few  steps  beyond 
the  second  gopura,  under  which  is  the 
entrance  to  uus  second  quadrangle,  nor 
will  they  permit  any  closer  ezammation 
of  the  building.  Ketuming  S.E.  2  m. 
the  visitor  will  reach  the  Zenana,  The 
outer  wall  is  about  20  ft  high,  and 
built  entirely  of  granite.  The  buildings 
within  have  for  the  most  part  been 
thrown  down.  At  the  comers  of  the  en- 
closure in  which  this  building  is  there 
have  been  towers,  and  two  remain.  At 
one  comer  of  the  enclosure  is  a  building 
which  was  probably  a  pavilion  for  the 
ladies.  It  has  been  covered  with  ime 
white  cement  Close  by  it  is  a  door, 
beyond  which  are  many  ruins  and  a 
temple  to  Hanuman,  with  a  very  spirited 
relief  of  the  Monkey-god.  E.  of  the 
zenana  are  the  Elephant  StaUea,  S.  of 
the  zenana,  at  the  distance  of  150  yds., 
is  a  monolithic  and  subterraneous 
temple  or  house,  with  three  chambers.] 

94  m.  Bellary  sta.  (R.),  D.B.  A 
municipal  town  and  large  military 
station,  capital  of  district  of  same  name. 
Pop.  53,000.  A  spur  from  the  Sandur 
range  runs  along  the  S.  side  of  the 
cantonment  of  Bellary,   and  extAnAi^ 


36d 


BOUTS  ! 


QABAa  Jmrcntoii  to  be^wada 


Iiutta 


K  to  Badihal,  8  m.  distant,  where  it 
abniptly  terminates.  A  high  point 
in  this  range  is  opposite  to  the  Fort 
of  Bellary,  within  4  m..  of  it,  and  is 
called  the  Copper  Mountain,  the  height 
being  1600  ft.  above  the  plain,  and  2800 
ft.  aboye  the  sea.  Excavations  are  still 
to  be  seen,  said  to  be  the  remains  of 
mines  worked  by  order  of  Hyder  'Ali, 
but  abandoned  in  oonsequence  of  the 
expense  exceeding  the  profit  Besides 
copper,  hematitic  iron  ore  is  found  in 
large  quantities,  some  of  which  possesses 
magnetic  properties. 

It  is  an  easy  climb  up  to  the  Fort, 
built  on  a  bare  ^^ranite  rock  of  semi- 
elliptical  form,  rising  abruptly  from 
the  plain  to  the  height  of  450  fL, 
and  about  2  m.  in  circumference.  The 
rock  is  defended  by  two  distinct  lines 
of  works,  constituting  the  lower  and 
upper  forts,  both  built  of  ^anite.  In 
the  upper  one,  the  summit  of  which 
is  flat  and  of  considerable  extent,  stands 
the  citadel,  which  is  reputed  to  be  of 
great  antiquity,  and  might  be  rendoed 
almost  impregnable.  U  affords,  how- 
ever, no  accommodation  for  troops, 
and  is  consequently  never  occupied 
except  by  a  small  guard.  The  ceUs  for 
the  military  prisoners  are  built  within 
it.  Several  tanks  or  cisterns  have  been 
hollowed  out  in  the  rock  to  hold  rain- 
water: the  system  of  their  construc- 
tion is  worthy  of  notice.  The  lower 
fort,  which  is  of  more  recent  construc- 
tion, consists  of  low  bastions  connected 
together  bjr -curtains.  Its  shape  is  quad- 
rangular ;  it  has  a  dry  ditch  and  covered 
way  in  front,  and  surrounds  the  base  of 
the  rook  from  its  S.W.  to  its  N.E.  angle. 

The  lower  fort  was  built  by  Tipu  in 
1792.  The  up^er  fort  has  six  bastions, 
and  deep  caviues  always  full  of  fresh 
water.  There  is  a  granite  pillar  86  ft. 
high,  with  figures  of  Hanuman  and 
other  deities  close  to  an  ancient,  squat 
pagoda  sacred  to  Shiva. 

The  present  fortifications  were  built 
b^  a  staff  of  French  engineers,  tradi- 
tion adding  that  after  the  new  citadel 
had  been  completed  Hyder  'AH  hanged 
the  French  engineers  at  the  gate,  as 
he  found  that  his  fort  was  commanded 
by  another  rock.  The  place  came  into 
possession  of  the  British  in  1800. 


The  Arsenal  is  at  the  foot  of  the 
Fort  Bock  in  the  S.W.  angle.  A  tank 
lies  to  the  S.  of  the  Fort,  fed  by  & 
stream.  The  N.I.  regiment  lin^  are 
at  the  extreme  S.  W.  of  the  cantonment 
The  barracks  of  the  English  Infantry 
areljm,  totheN.K  Here  are  Trinil^ 
Churoh  and  the  Roman  Oathohc 
Church.  There  is  also  a  handsome 
dhurch,  built  at  the  expense  of  Mr. 
Abraham,  of  fine  white  stone  brought 
from  Shahabad. 

124  m.  Ckmtakal  June.  sta.  See 
p.  884. 

167  m.  Knmool  Road  sta. 

\  m.  distant  is  Dhone.  D.B.  3^ 

[From  here  Enznool  is  distant  33 
m.  N.  by  road.  This  is  the  Camid 
of  Orme.  Pop.  20,000.  A  dvH  sta- 
tion. The  town  stands  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Hindri  and  Tongabhadia 
rivers.  The  old  fort  was  dismantled 
in  1862,  but  four  bastions  and  three 
eates  still  stand.  Troops  were  stationed 
m  it  until  1871,  and  it  still  oontains 
the  pcJace  of  the  Nawabs.  There  is 
a  fine  mausoleum  of  Abdul  Wahab, 
the  first  Kawab,  and  several  mosques. 
17  m.  up  stream  at  SunkescUa  are  the 
head  works  of  the  canal ;  the  journey 
can  be  done  in  a  canal  boat.] 

214  m.  Nandyal  sta.  Called  from 
Nandi,  the  bull  of  Shiva.  There  arel 
several  Shivite  temples  here.  Before 
reaching  it  the  line  passes  through  the 
Qerramalai  HiUs  by  many  picturesque 
curves. 

278  m.  Clunlram  sta.  (R.) 

383  m.  Gontur  sta.  (R.) 

The  Rly.  crosses  the  Eistna  river  by 
a  huee  bridge  just  below  the  irrigatioB 
dam  oefore  entering 

400  m.  Bexwada  (R.)  D.B.  This 
is  also  the  terminus  of  the  Nizam's 
State  Rly.  from  Wadi,  Hyderabad,  and 
Warangal.  A  line  has  recently  been 
opened  from  Bezwada  to  Barang  (for 
Cuttaok)  and  Pun  (Jagannath).  See 
Routes  21  and  25.  An  important 
trading-place  on  the  most  frequented 
crossing  of  the  Eistna  river.  A  fort 
was  erected  here  in  1760,  but  has  since 
been  dismantled.  There  are  rook-out 
Buddhist  temples  and  Hindu  pagodas. 
In  making  excavations  for  canals  many 
remains  were  exposed,  whioh  show  that 


ROUTS  26.   EXCURSIONS  FROM  BEZWADA 


359 


the  place  was,  in  the  Buddhist  period, 
a  considerable  religious  centre. 

It  is  a  town  with  12,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Kistna,  45  m.  from  its  mouth.  It  is 
shut  in  on  the  W.  by  a  granite  ridge 
600  ft.  high,  running  K.  and  S.,  and 
ending  in  a  scarp  at  the  river.  At 
right  angles  to  this  ridge,  and  i  m. 
from  the  stream,  is  a  similar  ridge 
sheltering  the  town  on  the  "S, 
Close  to  the  E.  end  of  N.  ridge  is 
a  sharp -pointed  detached  mass  of 
gaeiss,  on  which  are  Buddhistic  caves 
and  cells.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  river, 
opposite  to  Bezwada,  is  a  hill  similar 
to  the  "W.  ridge  of  which  it  is  a  con- 
tinuation. It  IS  450  ft.  high,  and  from 
Bezwada  seems  a  perfect  cone.  On  the 
S.  side  of  the  river,  1  m.  to  the  W., 
is  the  Undavilli  Cave-Temple.  The 
rock-cuttings  on  the  hill  to  the  W.  of 
Bezwada  are  made  perpendicularly 
down  the  rock,  which  forms  the  side  of 
a  prism,  and  they  leave  a  platform 
half-way  down,  on  which  buildings 
were  placed  by  the  Buddhists.  One 
such  cutting  gives  a  cave  77  ft.  deep 
X  30  ft.  brosS,  with  a  perpendicular 
rocky  face,  and  about  45  ft.  high. 

At  a  little  distance  to  the  S.  of  the 
town  there  is  an  enormous  rook.  It 
was  there  that  the  Master  of  the  Shas- 
tras  attained  the  rank  of  Buddha.  An 
inscription  on  a  pillar  in  the  Temple  of 
Amararshnaraswami,  in  Bezwada,  is 
dated  1283  s.s.  =  1361  A.D.  On  the 
crest  of  the  hill  is  a  bungalow  built 
when  the  Dam  at  Bezwada  was  being 
made.  A  statue  of  Buddha  in  black 
granite  was  removed  from  the  highest 
point  of  this  hill  to  the  library  at 
Bezwada.  Another  Bungalow,  be- 
longing to  the  Church  Missionaries, 
has  been  erected  on  the  platform,  from 
which  steps  ascend  to  the  top  of  the 
hilL  On  the  ridge  to  the  W.  of  the 
town  the  remains  cluster  thickly.  The 
perpendicular  cliff  at  the  back  has  been 
roughly  carved  with  representations  of 
Hindu  deities.  Passing  it,  you  come 
to  a  modem  temple  to  Kanaka  Par- 
gamma.  There  is  also  a  figure  with 
illegible  writing  in  characters  of  the 
6th  or  7th  century,  and  an  inscription 
in  old  Telugu. 


In  the  town  of  Bezwada  are  old 
shrines  with  inscriptions  from  the  7th 
century  downwards.  The  caves  of 
Bezwada  are  hollowed  out  of  the  E. 
side  of  the  great  hill  at  the  foot  of 
which  Bezwada  stands.  At  the  foot  of 
the  hUl,  at  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  town, 
is  a  small  rock-temple  with  a  figure  of 
Yenayakudu,  or  Ganesh.  Then  come 
several  cells  and  a  good-sized  man- 
dapam,  with  pillars  of  the  solid  rock. 
In  the  temple  of  Malleshwar  Swami, 
which  is  in  the  town,  are  some  figures 
and  pillars  much  older  than  the  temple 
itself.  Besides  the  colossal  figure  of 
Buddha  in  black  granite,  which  came 
from  the  hill  to  the  E.  of  Bezwada, 
and  ia  now  in  the  Library,  there  is 
another  colossal  figure  of  Buddha  in  the 
enclosure  of  the  rest-house  for  native 
travellers  at  Gudivada.  The  features 
are  very  fine,  the  hair  woolly.  A  seven- 
headed  serpent  forms  a  canopy  for  the 
statue's  head.  The  Brahmans  call  it 
Muneshwaraswami,  and  claim  Sakya 
Muni  as  a  Brahmanical  deity. 

The  Kistna  Bridge  is  1200  yards 
long  outside  abutments,  with  a  depth 
of  foundations  80  feet  below  low  water, 
and  cost  4,247,850  rupees. 


Excursions  from  Bezwada. 
(1)  In  order  to  reach  Undavilli 
village,  the  traveller  must  cross  the 
Kistna  from  Bezwada  and  go  1^  m.  up 
the  course  of  the  river  above  and  W. 
of  Sitanagaram.  There  is  a  rock- temple 
of  two  stories  close  to  the  village,  and 
also  a  large  one  of  four  stories,  the 
lower  sto^  being  buried  in  debris. 
This  is  a  Buddhistic  temple  converted 
to  the  worship  of  Anantaswami,  or 
Vishnu.  In  the  third  story  is  a  hall 
supported  by  solid  rock  pillars  repre- 
senting the  rape  of  Sita  by  Ravana,  and 
the  search  for  her  and  ner  rescue  by 
Hanuman,  and  the  defeat  of  Ravana  by 
Kama.  At  the  end  of  the  hill  is  a 
gigantic  figure  of  the  Narsing  Avatara 
recumbent  on  the  Shesh  Nag,  and  with 
two  large  and  several  smaller  figures  at 
his  feet.  There  are  some  remains  of 
painting  on  them.  An  inscription  near 
the  temple  records  a  srant  by  a  Beddi 
chief  not  earlier  than  the  18th  century. 


360 


ROUTB  27.      BCBLI  TO  HULLABID  AND  BANGALOBB         ItldtC 


(2)  17  m.  W.  of  Bezwada  by  road  is 
AmaraYati,  on  the  right  or  S.  bank  of 
the  Kistna  river.  It  is  a  place  of  much 
interest  to  antiquarians  as  an  ancient 
centre  of  the  Buddhist  reb'gion,  and 
the  site  of  a  great  Tope,^  of  which,  how- 
eyer,  scarcely  anything  remains  in  situ. 
What  there  is  lies  to  the  S.  of  the 
town,  just  beyond  the  outer  huts. 
Dr.  Burgess  calls  it  "a  deeply  interest- 
ing monument  of  antiquity  unequalled 
for  the  delicacy  of  its  detail  b^  any  of 
the  remains  of  Indian  Architectural 
Art"  Recent  injudicious  excayations 
have  created  such  confusion  in  the 
debris  that  the  chances  of  forming  an 
idea  of  the  original  size  and  structural 
arrangements  of  the  tope  have  for  ever 
been  destroyed.  Many  ezamj^les  of 
the  sculpture  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
British  Museum.  Before  1790  the  tope 
is  said  to  have  presented  the  appear- 
ance of  a  very  large  low  tumulus 
crowned  by  a  smaller  one  about  80 
yds.  in  diameter,  and  20  ft.  high, 
which  had  been  covered  with  brick, 
and  was  locally  known  as  DipoUdinne, 
or  the  Hill  of  light. 

K.  and  K.W.  of  Amaravati  are  the 
sites  of  former  diamond-workings,  all 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river. 


ROUTE  27 

hubli  junotion  to  hullabid  and 
Bangalore. 

Hnbli  June.  sta.  (R.)  is  between  Londa 
June,  and  Gadag  junc,  and  127  m.  by 
rail  K  of  Marmogoa  harbour  on  the 
W.  coast. 

81  m.  Harihar  sta.  (R.)  on  the  rt. 
bank  of  the  Tungabhadra.  In  1868  a 
very  fine  bridge  was  constructed  over 
the  river.  An  inscription  on  copper 
has  been  found  here  of  the  7th  cen- 
tury, and  there  are  several  of  the  12th. 
The  temple  was  erected  in  1223.  In 
1268  additions  were  made  by  Soma, 
the  foundei  of  Somnathpur  in  the 
Mysore    district.       In    1277    Saluva 

1  See  Pergusson's  HisL  af  Ind,  Arch.,  pp. 
71,7  2,  08,  W,  102.  and  by  J.  BnigeBS,  LUD. 
AnuxravfUi  and  Jaggaj/apeta  StupaSj  London 


Tikkama  built  a  temple  to  Mahiden 
The  Kings  of  Yijayangar  bestoW 
many  benefactions  on  these  templi 
down  to  the  16th  century.  After  t) 
fall  of  y^'ayanagar,  the  Taiikere  chi^ 
seized  the  place  and  built  the  fort 

178  m.  Banawar  sta. 

[The  renewed  ruins  of  HuUaMd 
20  m.  S.  W.  from  this  point  by  ioa| 
past  JamgcU  (12  m.)  At  10  t 
beyond  in  the  same  direction  is  Bli 
We  take  these  places  on  the  re 
journey  to  ths  railway  station. 

Belor  (or  Baillur),  on  the  rt  1 
of  the  Yagache,  pop.  about  3000. 
the  Puranas  and  old  inscriptions  11;' 
called  Yelapura,  and  is  styled  the 
Benares.  Here  is  the  famous  ten 
of  Chenna  Eesava,  erected  and  endo^ 
by  the  Hoysalaking,  Yishnu  Yardhil 
on  exchan|;ing  the  Jain  faith  for  tl 
of  Yishnu  m  nie  beginning  of  the  1] 
century.  The  carving  with  which 
is  decorated  rivals  in  design 
finish  that  of  Hullabid,  and  is 
work  of  the  same  artist,  Jakanach 
The  image  of  Chenna  Eesava  is  said 
have  been  brought  from  the  B 
Budan  hills,  but  that  of  his  gocU 
was  left  behind,  which  obliges  hin 
pay  her  a  visit  there  at  stated  in 
vals.  The  Gh'ecU  Temple  stands  wil 
a  high  wall  which  surrounds  a 
440  ft.  X  360  ft  In  this  court  i 
besides  the  Great  Temple,  four  or 
smaller  ones.  On  the  E.  front  are : 
fine  gopuras.  "  It  consists,"  says 
Fergusson,  "of  a  very  solid  vima: 
wiihsiJianteralaf  or  porch;  and  in  f 
of  this  a  porch  of  the  usual  star-like  f( 
measuring  90  ft.  across.  The  am 
ments  of  the  pillars  have  much  of 
pleasing  subordination  and  yarietj 
spacing  which  is  found  in  those  of 
Jains,  out  we  miss  here  the  octag« 
dome,  which  gives  such  poetry 
meaning  to  the  arrangements 
adopted.  Instead  of  these  we 
only  an  exaggerated  compartment 
the  centre,  which  fits  nothing,  r 
though  it  does  give  dignity  to 
centre,  it  does  it  so  clumsily  as  tl 
almost  offensive  in  an  aruutect 
sense."  The  windows  to  the  p 
are  28,   and  all  different.    Some 


ROUTE  27.      HtJLLABlO — KKTaMSVARA — HOtSALBSHWARA        361 


pierced  with  star-shaped,  conventional 
Mtterns,  and  with  foliaged  patterns 
jetween.  Others  are  interspersed  with 
nythological  figures,  as  the  Yaraha 
lyatar.  The  base  is  very  richly  carved, 
md  is  supported  on  carved  elephants, 
tfr.  Fergusson  says:  "The  amount  of 
aboor  which  each  facet  of  this  porch 
lisplays  is  such  as  never  was  bestowed 
>n  any  surface  of  eoual  extent  in  any 
mildm^  in  the  world ;  and  though  the 
lesi^  IS  not  of  the  highest  oraer  of 
xt,  it  is  elegant  and  appropriate,  and 
lever  offends  against  good  taste.  The 
cnlptures  of  the  base  of  the  vimanah 
are  as  elaborate  as  those  of  the  porch, 
n  some  places  more  so  ;  and  the  mode 
n  which  the  under  sides  of  the  cor- 
lices  have  been  elaborated  and  adorned 
B  such  as  is  only  to  be  found  in  temples 
»f  this  class." 

Hullabid,  from  the  Eanarese  words, 
)akf  "old,"  bidUf  "ruins,  "is  a  village 
0  m.  N.K  of  Belur,  with  1200  in- 
labitants.  It  marks  the  site  of  Dorasa- 
audra,  the  old  capital  of  the  Hoysala 
)allala  kings.  It  was  founded  early 
a  the  12th  century,  but  was  rebuilt  in 
he  middle  of  the  13th  by  Vira  Somesh- 
rara,  and  some  inscriptions  represent 
dm  to  be  the  founder.  Attacked  by 
eprosy,  he  withdrew  to  the  neighbour- 
Dg  hiU  of  Pushpagiri  (Mountain  of 
flowers),  where  he  was  instructed  to 
lect  temples  to  Shiva  to  obtain  a  cure, 
[he  Mohammedan  general  Kafur  took 
he  city  in  1810,  and  plundered  it  of 
mmense  wealth.  In  1326  another 
nny  of  Mohammedans  carried  off  what 
emained,  and  destroyed  the  city.  The 
teAsL  then  removed  to  Tonnur. 

There  are  2  most  remarkable  temples 
emaining.  (1)  The  Ketaresvara,  the 
mailer  of  the  two,  but  a  miracle  of  art. 
Jnfortunately,  a  tree  took  root  in  the 
imanah,  or  tower,  over  the  sanctuary, 
nd  dislodged  the  stones.  Many  of 
he  figures,  thrust  out  of  their  places 
Q  this  manner,  have  been  removed 
0  the  Museilm  at  Bangalore.  It 
s  now  fast  ^oing  to  ruin.  It  is 
tar-shaped,  with  sixteen  points,  and 
iad  a  porch,  now  mined  and  covered 
ritii  vegetation.  It  has  a  conical 
•oof,  and  from  base  to  top  "is  covered 
vith    sculptures    of    the    very    best 


Indian  art,  and  these  so  arranged  as 
not  materially  to  interfere  with  the 
outlines  of  the  building."  It  was, 
when  intact,  the  finest  specimen  of 
Indian  art  in  existence. 

(2)  The  Hoysaleshwara,  "Lord  of  the 
Hoysalas, "  much  larger  than  the  Ketar- 
esvara. It  stands  on  a  terrace,  5  ft. 
6  in.  in  height,  paved  with  large  slabs. 
The  temple  itself  is  160  fL  from  N.  to  S. 
by  122  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  beyond 
its  walls  there  is  a  clear  margm  of 
platform  all  round  of  about  20  ft.  The 
neight  from  the  terrace  to  the  cornice 
is  25  ft.  It  is  a  double  temple,  one 
half  bein^  sacred  to  Shiva,  and  the 
other  to  nis  wife.  Each  half  has  a 
pavilion  in  front  containing  the  Baswa, 
or  Ndndif  a  bull.  The  larger  of  the 
two  is  16  ft.  long  by  7  ft  broad  and 
10  ft.  high,  the  animal  being  repre- 
sented lying  down. 

Some  of  the  pillars  in  the  inner  part 
of  the  temple  are  of  black  hornblende, 
and  have  a  dazzling  polish,  which,  as 
Buchanan  tells  us  (voL  iii.  p.  892), 
"reflects  objects  double,  which  by  the 
natives  is  looked  upon  as  miraculous." 
Alluding  to  the  many  friezes  that  sur- 
round the  temple,  Fergusson  says 
"Some  of  these  are  carved  with  a 
minute  elaboration  of  detail  which  can 
only  be  reproduced  by  ^hotocraphy, 
and  may  probably  be  considered  as  one 
of  the  most  marvellous  exhibitions  of 
human  labour  to  be  found  even  in  the 
patient  East"  He  adds:  "Here  the 
artistic  combination  of  horizontal  with 
vertical  lines,  and  the  play  of  outline 
and  of  li^ht  and  shade,  far  surpass 
anything  m  Gothic  art  The  effects 
are  just  what  the  mediseval  architects 
were  often  aiming  at,  but  which  they 
never  attained  so  perfectly  as  was  done 
at  Hullabid."  In  the  friezes  of  sculp- 
tured animals  which  surround  the 
buildine,  the  succession  is  always  the 
same,  the  elephants  being  the  lowest, 
next  above  them  the  ahardoUas  (or  con- 
ventional lions),  then  the  horses,  then 
the  oxen,  then  birds.  Fergusson  places 
HuUabid  temple  and  the  Parthenon 
as  the  two  extremes  of  architectural 
art,  and  says :  "It  would  be  possible 
to  arrange  aU  the  buildings  of  the 
world  between  these  two  extremes,  p<' 


362 


BOUTB  27.      HUBLI  TO  HULLABID  AND  BAKGALOBE  Mtt 


they  tended  toward  the  seyere  intel- 
lectual piiri^  of  the  one,  or  the  play^ 
exuberant  &ncy  of  the  other;  but 
perfeotion,  if  it  existed,  would  be  some- 
where near  the  mean." 

Admiration  for  this  vast  temple 
should  not  cause  neglect  of  the  group 
of  extremely  beautiful  Jain  Baiiis  at 
the  farther  end  of  the  village. 

Jamgal. — ^The  temple  here  is  dedi- 
cated to  Narsinga,  and  built  entirely 
of  Mapam,  or  pot-stone.  Buchanan 
says :  "  It  is  highly  ornamented  after 
the  Hindu  fiuhion,  and  on  the  outside 
eyerv  part  of  its  walls  is  covered  with 
small  images  in  full  relievo." 

188  m.  Arsikere  sta.  (R.)  Gold- 
mining  has  been  started  here  with  but 
poor  results  as  yet.  32  m.  S.  from 
this  place  is  the  town  of  Chomroya^ 
pcUna,^  The  fort  was  built  subse- 
quently, and  Hyder  'AU  added  the  wet 
moat  and  traverse  gateways. 

[At  8  m.  S.E.  of  this  place  is  Shra- 
vana  Belagola.  Bhadra  Bahu,  the 
Jain  sage,  died  here  in  the  4th  century 
B.C.,  ana  was  a  Sh/nUa  kevcUa,  or 
immediate  "hearer"  of  the  six  dis- 
ciples of  Mahavira,  founder  of  the  Jain 
sect.  The  chief  attendant  of  this  worthy 
is  said  to  have  been  the  famous  Em- 
peror Chandragupta,  or  Sandracottus, 
who  abdicated  to  nve  the  life  of  a  recluse 
with  him.  These  events  are  confirmed 
by  inscriptions  on  the  rock  of  very 
^eat  antiquity.  The  erandson  of 
Chandragupta  is  said  to  nave  visited 
the  spot  with  an  army,  and  from  his 
camp  arose  the  town  of  Shravana 
Belgola  or  Belgola  of  the  Shravans= 
Jains.  Near  the  town,  which  has 
1300  inhabitants,  are  two  rocky  hills — 
Indra-betta  and  CTuxTidragiri,  On 
Indra-betta  is  a  colossal  statue  of 
Gomata  Raya,  70  ft.  3  in.  It  is 
nude,  and  faces  the  N.  The  &ce  has 
the  calm  look  usual  in  Buddhist 
statues.  The  hair  is  curled  in  short 
spiral  ringlets  all  over  the  head. 
The  ears  are  long  and  large,  the 
shoulders  very  broad,  the  arms  hang- 
ing straight  down  with  the  thumbs 
outwards,  the  waist  small.  From  the 
^  The  tomple  was  erected  in  1600. 


knees  downwards  the  legs  are  mmatll^ 
ally  short ;  the  feet  r^  on  a  lotos. 
Ant-hills  are  represented  rising  on 
either  side,  with  a  creeping  plant  spriiig- 
ing  from  them  which  twines  romid 
the  thighs  and  arms,  ending  in  i 
tendril  with  bunches  of  fruit  Then 
are  intended  to  symbolise  the  deep 
abstraction  of  the  sage,  so  absorbed  in 
meditation  that  the  ants  build  and  ie 
plants  climb  around  him  nnnoticed. 

Though  certfidjily  1000  years  old,  and 
probably  2000,  the  stone  looks  as  fioh 
as  if  newly  quarried.  Within  the 
enclosure  are  72  small  statues,  of 
like  appearance,  in  compartments. 
An  inscription  on  the  front  of  the 
colossus  states  that  it  was  erected  by 
Chamunda  Haya,  who  is  said  to  lavn 
lived  60  b.o.  The  place  abounds  vith 
inscriptions,  the  most  interesting  of 
which  are  cut  in  the  face  of  the  rocktt 
Indra-betta  in  ancient  characters  1  (t 
long.  On  Chandra^;iri  there  are  li 
Jain  temples.] 

248  m.  Tumkor  sta.  (R.)  chief  tovii 
and  headquarters  of  a  district  of  tb 
same  name.  A  civH  and  military  stir 
tion,  prettily  situated  at  the  S.W. 
base  of  the  Devaraydurai  group  of 
hills.  Pop.  10,000.  The  Deputy  Com- 
missioner s  Court-house  is  a  curiouB- 
looking  circular  building,  three  stoiiei 
high.  There  is  a  "WeSeyan  Missioii 
here,  with  a  chapel  and  several  schools. 
Glass  bangles  are  extensively  made 
here ;  and  there  are  120  forges  what 
arms  and  cutlery  are  produced.  The 
masons  are  specially  noted  for  the  stone 
idols  they  carve  ;'  and  musical  instni- 
ments  made  here  are  much  prized.  In 
the  Tumkur  district  there  are  3768 
cotton  looms  and  34,801  cotton-spinning 
wheels. 

288  m.  Bangalore  junc  sta.  (see 
p.  376). 


BOUTX  28.      BOMBAT  TO  OOLOMBO 


363 


ROUTE  28 
Bombay  to  Tutiooein  and 
Colombo  by  Coasting-steamer 
The  British  India  Steam  Namgation 
Company  has  a  weekly  servioe  to  all  the 
ports  mentioned  below,  but  during  the 
S.W.  monsoon  some  cannot  be  called  at. 
From  Bombay  126  m.  Batnagiri/s^ 
D.B.  This  place  is  the  principal  civil 
station  in  the  S.  Eonkan.  A  small  de- 
tachment of  troops  is  usually  stationed 
at  it.  Here  Thebaw,  the  last  king  of 
Upper  Burma,  and  his  queen,  have  been 
detained  since  the  last  Burmese  war. 
The  town  is  large  and  open,  facing  the  sea. 
There  are  two  small  bays  formed  by  a 
rock  on  which  the  fort  is  built.  There 
is  neither  shelter  nor  good  anchorage,  as 
the  harbour  is  oomjiletely  exposed,  and 
the  bottom  is  hard  sand  withrock.  With 
any  breeze  from  the  W.  there  are  heavy 
breakers  on  the  bar  atthe  entrance  of  the 
river,  and  boats  cross  it  only  at  the  top  of 
high  water.  The  land  ing-place  for  boats 
is  on  the  S.  of  the  fort,  near  a  small  tank, 
close  to  high -water  mark.  The  Can- 
tonment lies  on  the  N.  of  the  town. 
Batnagiri  derives  its  name  from  the 
demon  Batn^sv/Tt  who  was  kiUed  by  an 
incarnation  of  Shiva  called  Nath^  or 
Jotiba,  who  is  worshipped  at  a  famous 
temple  near  Eolhapur.  To  the  tourist, 
however,  the  principal  thing  of  interest 
here  is  the  Tarlif  or  **  sardine  "  fishing, 
which  is  pretty  to 'witness.  Fleets  of 
canoes  may  be  seen  putting  out  for  these 
fish  in  January  and  February.  Three 
men  are  required  in  each  canoe,  two  to 
paddle  and  one  to  cast  the  net.  The 
attitudes  of  the  men  engaged  in  casting 
the  nets  are  beautiM',  and  display 
their  fine  athletic  figures  to  advantage. 
They  stand  in  the  bows  of  the  canoes, 
leaning  slightly  forward,  with  the  nets 

fathered  up,  and  with  eyes  glancing 
eenly  around  in  search  of  the  shoal. 
The  fish,  which  is  most  delicious,  is 
caught  in  such  numbers  that  a  sinc^le 
net-caster  will  fill  his  canoe  in  tne 
course  of  the  morning,  as  many  as  fifty 
fish  being  taken  at  a  single  cast ;  and 
(]uantities  of  the  fish  are  used  to  manure 
the  rice -fields.     At  these  times  the 

*  Places  at  which  steamers  do  not  call  rega> 
larly. 


deep-sea  fishing  is  entirely  neffleoted. 
The  fishing  is  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  shore,  just  outside  the  breakers, 
and  can  be  carried  on  only  when  the 
water  is  sufficiently  clear  to  admit  of 
the  fish  being  readily  seen. 

Kabadevi  Bay,  7  m.  N.  of  Ratnagiri, 
is  a  safe  anchorage  during  the  S.W. 
monsoon.  There  \&  a  good  road  to 
Ratnagiri. 

227  m.  Marmagoa  *  (for  Gtoa).  See 
pp.  301-2. 

275  m.  Earwar,*  D.B.  Anchorage 
500  yds.  from  shore.  Boats  1  r.  each. 
This  port  has  been  considered  the 
safest  anchorage  between  Bombay  and 
Cochin ;  but  with  the  opening  of  the 
railway  from  Marmagoa,  and  me  large 
expenaiture  of  money  on  that  harbour, 
it  is  attracting  all  the  trade  from 
Earwar.  Here  the  hills  of  N.  Eanara 
come  down  to  the  water's  edge,  and 
the  forest  and  the  sea  may  be  said  to 
meet.  The  scenery  is  very  beautiful. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  coast 
much  resembles  that  of  the  Japanese 
islands,  and  the  harbour  is  extremely 
like  the  beautiM  little  harbour  of 
Tsusima.  In  1660  Earwar  was  a 
dependency  of  Bijapur,  and  was  the 
site  of  a  prosperous  English  factory, 
which  gave  occupation  to  60,000 
weavers  in  the  interior.  In  1 665  Shivaji, 
the  founder  of  the  Maratha  power, 
exacted  a  contribution  of  £112  from 
the  English.  In  1673  the  military 
governor  laid  siege  to  the  factory.  In 
1674  the  Marathas  burned  Earwar  town, 
but  did  not  harm  the  English.  The 
factory  was  withdrawn  in  1679,  in  con- 
sequence of  exactions,  but  was 
restored  on  a  larger  scale  in  1682.  In 
1684  the  English  were  nearly  driven 
out,  the  crew  of  a  vessel  having  stolen 
and  kUled  a  cow.  The  factory  was 
again  removed  in  1720,  and  not  restored 
until  1750.  The  Portuguese  took  the 
northern  fort  in  1752,  and  in  1801  Old 
Earwar  was  in  ruins.  There  are  several 
islands  off  the  coast  called  the  Oyster 
Rocks,  on  the  largest  of  which,  Devgarh, 
is  a  lighthouse  210  ft.  above  the  sea, 
showing  a  white  fixed  light  on  a  white 
tower,  which  is  visible  25  m.  at  seat 


364 


BOUTB  28.      BOKBAt  TO  COLOMBO 


Iiufti 


Anjidiva  Island,  5  m.  S.S.  of  the 
Oyster  Books,  rises  steep  from  the  sea. 
It  is  a  Portuguese  settlement. 

[Honawar  is  50  m.  S.  of  Karwar. 
The  bar  at  the  entrance  is  now  so 
dangerous  that  the  coasting-steamers 
do  not  oall,  but  they  sometimes  stop 
outside  for  passengers  to  land.  Ar- 
rangement should  06  made  beforehand 
with  the  shipping  agents  (see  also  Ex- 
cursion No.  10  m>m  Bombay).  This 
is  the  place  from  which  the  celebrated 
Falls  o/Oersoppa  can  be  most  conveni- 
ently visited. 

Tnis  port  has  been  a  good  outlet  for 
the  produce  of  this  part  of  N.  Eanara. 
The  Gersop^  or  Shiravati  river  flow- 
ing towards  it,  is  met  by  an  inlet  of  the 
sea,  forming  a  salt-water  lake  7  m.  in 
len^  from  S.K  to  N.W.,  and  3  m. 
in  its  greatest  breadth.  This  lake  con- 
tains several  islands,  and  abounds  with 
fish.  Honawar  is  situated  on  the  N. 
side  of  it.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  a 
subdivision,  and  contains  about  12,000 
inhabitants.  On  account  of  the  pepper 
grown  in  the  surrounding  country,  a 
small  factory  containing  eighteen  per- 
sons was  established  here  by  the  English 
at  a  very  early  period  after  their  arrival 
in  India,  but  after  a  short  time  it  came 
to  a  melancholy  end.  About  the  year 
1670  the  chief  procured  a  fine  bull-dog 
from  the  captam  of  an  English  vessel 
which  had  come  there  to  take  in  car^o. 
This  animal,  when  accompanying  the 
factors  on  an  excursion,  seized  a  sacred 
cow  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  Hindu 
temple,  and  killed  her.  Instigated  by 
the  brahmans,  the  natives  were  resolved 
to  revenge  this  injury  to  their  preju- 
dices, and  in  a  fury  or  fanaticism  mur- 
dered every  Englishman.  Some  natives, 
more  friendly  than  the  rest,  caused  a 
large  grave  to  be  dug,  and  in  it  the 
ei^nteen  victims  were  interred.  The 
chief  of  the  factory  at  Earwar  sent-  a 
monumental  stone,  on  which  was  en- 
graved the  story  of  their  wretched  fate. 
In  the  time  of  Hyder  there  was  a  con- 
siderable trade  in  pepper  and  sandal 
wood  from  this  place,  and  that  prince 
established  at  it  a  dock  for  building 
ships  of  war.  In  the  time  of  Buchanan 
1800)  the  wrecks  of  some  of  these 


vessels  remained  in  the  lake,  \ixm^ 
been  sunk  by  the  British  troops  when 
they  carried  the  Fort  by  aasamt  So 
early  as  1569  we  hear  of  Honawar  as  i 
rich  and  beautiful  city,  with  a  foit, 
belonging  to  the  Queen  of  Gersoppa; 
and  the  Portuguese  at  that  time 
plundered  and  burned  it,  but  shortly 
after  fortified  and  garrisoned  it  anew. 
It  then  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Baiahi 
of  Bednur,  and  next  passed  with  itaa 
other  possessions  to  Hyder.  In  178S 
it  was  taken  by  the  forces  under  General 
Matthews,  but  restored  next  year  to 
Tipu  by  the  treaty  of  Man^ore. 

The  Falls  of  Oenoppa.— -The  jonmej 
from  Honawar  may  be  best  descnbed 
by  an  extract  from  the  journal  of  u 
accomplished  writer  who  visited  the 
falls  in  1888.  He  says:  ''Arrangemeiili 
had  been  made  for  our  passage  to  IJm 
Gersoppa*  FaUs.  We  went  on  the  same 
night  18  m.  in  boats  up  the  moonB 
river,  grounded  on  a  sandbank,  lal 
were  pulled  off  ovlj  to  find  the  rovn 
had  landed  to  drink  succees  to  ov 
future  progress,  to  which  this  indnt 
gence  by  no  means  conduced.  ArriTed 
at  Grersoppa,  we  slept  in  the  D.R, 
awoke  to  the  crowing  of  the  jnngli 
cock,  and  went  on  20  m.  by  road  \» 
Kodkani,  Here  is  another  D.E| 
whence  you  look  down  into  a  boOiog 
chaos  of  waters.  The  road  from  Ge^ 
soppa  to  Kodkani  is  one  lon^  hower  of 
evergreen  trees,  and  at  mid -day  y« 
scarcelv  see  the  sun.  These  junglee 
abound  with  tigers,  bears,  bison,  and 
^me  of  aU  kinds,  large  and.smalL" 
The  hamlet  near  the  Falls  is  called 
Kodkani.  There  are  two  D.Bs.,  the 
Eanara  and  the  Mysore,  distant  from 
one  another  710  yds.,  and  almost }  m. 
from  the  Falls.  The  Eanara  bungalow 
is  small  but  comfortable,  and  beauti- 
ftilly  situated.  From  the  window  of 
the  bungalow  herds  of  wild  bison  maj 
sometimes  be  seen.  After  a  short  walk 
through  a  beautiful  wood,  the  sound 
of  rusning  waters  breaks  upon  the  ear; 
and  as  one  descends  the  last  slope  to 
the  bed  of  the  river  above  the  xalls 
fitful  gleams  of  silvery  light  buistiiig 
forth  from  the  dark  masses  of  lock 
«nnonnoe  the  cataraotB.  Daring  the 
rains  it  would  be  difficult,  perhaps,  to 


J 


ttOUTB  28.       MANGALORE 


365 


ipproach  so  as  to  guin  a  complete  view. 
»it  at  other  seasons,  after  Grossing 
K>me  50  ft.  of  the  rooky  bed  of  the 
iver,  the  trayeller  comes  full  on  a 
tremendous  gulf.  On  three  sides  de- 
loend  the  sheets  of  silvery  foam  with 
rtonning  roar,  and  shoot  like  rockets 
iown  an  unbroken  fall  of  near  1000  ft., 
rhere,  in  the  gulf  below,  an  unfathom- 
able pool  receives  them.  The  river 
Dears  several  names,  but  here  is  called 
^e  Kural.  Its  bed  is  here  about  600  ft. 
joross,  of  laterite  mixed  with  mica  and 
Dlspar,  worn  and  riven  by  the  violence 
)f  uie  stream  into  innumerable  fantas- 
io  shapes.  In  one  place  there  appears 
\  succession  of  waves  of  stone,  and  in 
mother  rocks  are  pHed  on  rooks  in 
)erfect  chaos,  while  some  a^ain  are 
ihapen  into  hollow  cylinders,  m  which 
^e  stream  boils  and  bubbles  as  in  a 
laldron. 

There  are  in  all  four  falls,  which 
lave  been  called  the  Oreai  FcUl,  the 
Soarer,  the  Rocket,  and  the  Dame 
Slandhe.  In  the  first  of  these  the 
niter  in  considerable  volume  leaps 
theer  down  a  height  of  829  ft,  measured 
)7  line,  and  falls  into  a  pool  132  ft. 
ieep.  The  spectator  may  look  sheer 
Iown  into  this  abyss.  Viewed  from 
jelow  and  at  some  distance,  this  fall 
K)ntnists  with  magical  effect  with  the 
text  fall,  the  Hmrer.  Here  a  still 
arger  body  of  water  rushes  with  less 
ibriiptness,  foaming  down  a  tortuous 
ihannel  into  a  cavern  or  cup,  which 
sams  it  into  the  bed  below.  The  name 
jiven  to  the  next  fall,  tiie  Hocket,  is  very 
ip^priate.  It  continually  shoots  out 
njets  of  foam,  which  burst  like  fire- 
xjokets  into  showers  of  glittering  drops, 
rhe  Dame  Blcmche  is  exquisitely  beauti- 
ful, but,  from  above,  seems  quite  gentle 
w  compared  with  the  other  three.  The 
D^des  conduct  the  traveller  to  three 
points  to  view  the  falls  from  above, 
uid  it  is  difficult  to  say  which  surpasses 
the  other.  The  descent  is  both  steep 
and  circuitous.  It  is  said  that  tigers 
have  been  seen  here.  To  make  the 
descent  after  crossing  the  bed  of  the 
river,  a  wood  is  passed,  and  some  steps 
ue  reached,  cut  in  the  rock  by  a  Bajah 
half  a  century  ago. 

The  Queen  of  Gersoppa,  called  by  the 


Portuguese  the  Heinha  da  Pimento,  or 
Pepper  Queen,  was  a  great  dietary  in 
the  l7th  century.  Her  subjects  were 
chiefly  Jains,  by  whom  the  nearest 
village  to  the  falls  is  at  present  almost 
entii^y  inbabited.  Among  the  ruins 
of  the  cit7  are  two  ordinary  Jain 
temples.  Through  the  rank  and  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  you  can  plainly  make 
out  the  streets  and  even  tne  houses. 

407  m.  Uangalore,  the  capital  of 
S.  Kanara,  in  the  Madras  Presidency. 
The  anchorage  is  2  m.  from  the  shore. 
Boat  hire,  1 J  r.  each  boat.  Pop.  32, 000. 
Mangalore  is  separatedfrom  the  sea  by  a 
backwater  formed  by  the  junction  of  two 
streams.  In  therains  these  rivers,  which 
flow  round  two  sides  of  a  peninsula  on 
which  the  town  and  cantonment  of  Man- 
galorestand, bringdown  a  largequantity 
of  water,  and  they  are  then  navigable  for 
boats  of  some  burthen  to  a  consider- 
able distance  inland.  In  the  dry 
season  there  is  but  little  current  in 
either,  except  that  caused  by  the  in- 
fluence of  the  tide,  which  flows  to  about 
9  or  10  m.  from  their  mouth.  The 
banks  of  these  rivers  are  high  and 
steep,  and  are,  where  the  soil  permits, 
planted  with  cocoa-nut  trees,  or  laid 
out  in  gardens  and  rice-fields.  At  the 
back  of  the  present  landing-place  the 

rt  bazaar  commences,  and  stretches 
on  the  edge '  of  the  backwater 
about }  m.  The  general  ap]pearance  of 
Mangalore  from  the  sea  is  picturesque. 
The  nouses  are  detached,  particularly 
those  towards  the  N.,  on  separate 
hills,  whence  an  extensive  view  is  to  be 
had,  while  the  thick  woods  add  much 
to  the  beauty  of  the  place.  In  ancient 
times  Mangalore  was  a  place  of  very 
great  commerce.  Ibn  Batuta,  in  the 
middle  of  the  14th  century,  speaks  of 
4000  Mohammedan  merchants  as  re- 
sident there.  Forbes  speaks  of  it,  in 
1772,  as  the  principal  seaport  in  the 
dominions  of  Hyder  'Ali,  and  well 
situated  for  commerce.  Moreover, 
both  Hyder's  and  Tipu's  ships  of  war 
were  built  at  Mangalore,  of  the  fine 
teak  produced  on  the  slopes  of  the 
ghats.  But  in  the  last  forty  years  con- 
siderable changes  have  taken  place  in 
the    harbour,    which,    commercially, 


366 


ROUTB  28.       BOMBAT  TO  OOLOMBO 


mJ 


have  muoh  ii^ared  it.  These  chAn^s 
in  the  harbour  appear  to  have  ori^- 
ated,  in  the  first  place,  from  an  opening 
having  been  cut  by  the  natives  throuffh 
a  narrow  x>art  of  the  back  sand  to  the 
N.  of  the  present  outlet,  to  permit  the 
escape  of  the  freshes  in  the  nver,  which 
had  cansed  alarm  in  consequence  of  an 
unusual  rise.  The  sea  entered  the  cut, 
and  has  formed  an  extensive  and  per- 
manent opening.  Mangalore  was  most 
gallantly  defended  by  Col.  Campbell 
of  the  42d  from  May  6th  1782  to 
January  80th  1788,  witn  a  garrison  of 
1850  men,  of  whom  412  were  English 
soldiers,  against  Tipu's  whole  army 
(see  Wilks,  vol.  u.  pp.  466-86). 

Mangalore  may  be  called  a  miniature 
Bombay,  from  the  variety  of  nationali- 
ties to  be  met— Europeans,  Indo-Portu- 
guese.  East  Indians,  Parsis,  Moguls, 
Arabs,  Sidis,  Eonkams,  MapiLihs, 
Eanarese,  and  Tamulians.  The  ver- 
nacular of  the  place,  however,  is  Tuluva, 
a  dialect  of  Eanarese. 

The  Oerman  Mission  at  Maneilore  is 
worthy  of  a  visit.  Various  industries 
and  trades  are  taught — printing,  book- 
binding, carpentry,  tile  manufacture, 
etc.  'niere  are  two  colleges,  affiliated 
to  the  Madras  University,  — the  Govern- 
ment College  and  the  Jesuit  College  of 
St.  Aloysius, 

A  recent  traveller  says:  "We  saw 
an  exhibition  of  the  products  of  this 
district  The  description  of  Marco  Polo 
will  answer  equally  at  the  present  day. 
He  says :  'There  is  in  this  kingdom  a 
great  quantity  of  pepper,  and  gineer, 
and  cinnamon,  and  of  nuts  of  India. 
They  also  manufacture  very  delicate 
and  beautiful  buckrams.  They  also 
bring  hither  cloths  of  silk  and  gold, 
also  gold  and  silver,  cloves  and  spike- 
nard, and  other  fine  spices  for  which 
there  is  a  demand  here.  " 

There  is  an  obelisk  in  the  Burial- 
grotmd  to  the  memory  of  Brigadier- 
(Greneral  Camac,  who  died  here  aged 
eighty -four,  in  1806.  He  was  second 
in  command  to  Clive  at  the  battle  of 


484  m.  Cannannore.    Anchorage  2 
m.  from  shore.     Boat  hire  14  ans.  each 


passenger-boat  It  has  26,000  ishsliifc- 
ants,  and  is  a  municipality  and  im&> 
tary  station.  D.B.  good.  Thecantoft* 
ment  is  on  a  jutting  portion  of  laii^ 
which  forms  the  N.  W.  side  of  the  baj. 
Near  the  end  of  this  is  a  promontoiy, 
on  which  stands  the  fort  tnilt  by  tie 
Portuguese.  This,  since  its  soqniffltioD 
by  the  English,  has  been  improved  and 
strengthened.  The  cliSs  are  from  80 
ft.  to  50  ft  high  here,  with  pileB  of 
rooky  boulders  at  their  feet  Tie 
bungalows  of  the  officers  are  most  of 
them  built  on  the  edge  of  these  cHUb, 
and  enjoy  a  cooling  sea-breeze.  Far&er 
inland,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  cantos- 
ment,  are  the  Chwreh^  magazme,  and 
English  burial-ground,  oontigaona  to 
one  another.  The  Portuguese  Church, 
once  the  Portuguese  fiictoiy,  is  close  to 
the  sea.  The  dimate  of  Cannannore  ii 
mild,  equable,  and  remarkably  healthT. 
The  town  is  surrounded  by  small  hills 
and  narrow  vall^.  Clumps  of  ooooi- 
nut  trees  form  one  of  the  charaeteristie 
features  of  the  place.  The  Portogae» 
had  a  fort  here  as  early  as  150S. 
They  were  expelled  by  the  Dntoh, 
who  subsequently  sold  the  place  to 
a  Mapilah  family.  The  tenitoty 
consists  only  of  the  town  and  the^ 
countiy  for  about  2  m.  round,  for 
which  an  annual  rent  of  14,000  n 
is  paid ;  but  the  sovereignty  of  the 
Lacoadive  Islands  also  belongs  to  tho 
Rajah  of  Cannannore.  In  1768  'ih 
Rajah,  the  then  ruling  chief,  readily 
submitted  to  Hyder  'Ali,  and  joined 
him  on  his  invacfbug  Malabar.  In  tho 
war  with  Tipu,  in  1788,  it  was  oeon- 
pied  by  the  English  ;  but  on  tho 
conclusion  of  peace  next  year  it  vai 
restored  to  the  Mapilah  chief.  It 
soon,  however,  fell  into  the  hands  of 
Tipu,  from  whom  it  was  wrested  hy 
Ceneral  Abercromby. 

497  m.  TeUieherry.  Anchorage  1} 
m.  from  shore.  Boat  hire  14  ana.  per 
boat  D.B.  good.  Pop.  about  26,000. 
The  native  town  lies  low,  yet  the  situa- 
tion is  picturesque,  being  backed  hy 
wooded  hills,  interspersed  with  valleys 
and  watered  by  a  fine  river.  It  is 
considered  very  healthy  ;  Forbes  caDi 
it  the  Montpeflier  of  India ;  but  deli- 


ftOXTTE  28.      CALICUT 


367 


eate  Europeans  suffer  from  the  damp- 
ness of  the  climate.  There  is  a  reef  of 
rooks  which  forms  a  natural  break- 
water. Within  there  is  sufficient 
depth  of  water  for  a  ship  of  600  tons 
to  ride  at  anchor.  As  the  wind  and 
current  prev^dl  rery  much  from  the 
N.W.  during  what  is  called  the  S.  W. 
monsoon,  the  water  is  not  so  smooth 
upon  the  beach  immediately  opposite 
this  reef  as  it  is  a  little  to  the  S.  of  it. 
In  1781  H.M.  ship  Superb  of  seventy- 
four  guns  was  lost  here.  The  Fort, 
which  Forbes  speaks  of  as  "Urge  and 
well  garrisoned^ "  is  built  on  a  rising 
ground  close  to  the  sea,  and  is  about 
40  fL  aboTe  its  level.  The  whole  of 
the  N.  W.  side  of  the  citadel  is  occupied 
by  a  lofly  building,  the  uper  part  of 
which  is  now  the  District  Judge's 
Court  and  offices,  while  the  lower  part 
forms  the  jail. 

The  Cardamoms  of  Wynaad,  which 
are  mostly  exported  from  Tellioherry, 
are  reckoned  the  best  in  the  world. 
The  seed  ripens  in  Sept.  Excellent 
sandal-wopd  is  also  exported.  The 
English  factory  at  Tellioherry,  which 
was  established  chiefly  for  the  pur- 
chase of  pepper  and  cardamoms,  was 
first  opened  in  1683,  under  orders  from 
the  Presidency  of  Surat.  In  1708  the 
East  India  Company  obtained  from 
the  Oherikal  Rajah  a  grant  of  the  Fort. 
In  1782  Hyder  '-/fli  attacked  the 
pkce,  but  was  compelled  by  the 
vigorous  sally  of  the  garrison  under 
Major  Abington  to  raise  the  siege. 

The  coasting -steamers  do  not  touch 
at  Hah6  (pop.  8000),  as  it  is  only  five 
miles  from  I^Uicherry.  Mahiy  derived 
from  Mahi,  "  a  fish,"  a  dependent  terri- 
tory of  2  sq.  m.,  belongs  to  the  French,— 
their  only  possession  on  the  W.  coast. 

Mah^  is  finely  situated  on  high 
ground  overlooking  the  river,  the  en- 
trance of  which  is  closed  by  rocks. 
Only  small  craft  can  pass  the  bar  in 
safety,  and  that  only  m  fair  weather ; 
but  the  river  is  navigable  for  boats  to 
a  considerable  distance  inland.  On  a 
high  lull  some  way  off  is  seen  the  Ger- 
man Mission  House  of  the  Basel  Mis- 
nonaries  at  Ohombala.  From  this  hill 
there  is  a  beautifril  view  of  the  wooded 
mountainB  of  Wynaad.     Th*  French 


settlement  at  Mah^  dates  from  1722, 
but  it  was  taken  by  the  English  under 
Major  Hector  Munro  in  1761.  The 
Peace  of  Paris,  in  1763,  gave  it  back  to 
the  French,  but  it  was  retaken  by  the 
English  in  1779,  and  in  1793  the  British 
establishment  at  Tellioherry  moved  to 
Mah6  ;  but  the  place  being  restored  to 
the  French  in  1815,  the  English  officials 
returned  to  Tellioherry.  Mah^  ps- 
sesses  all  the  institutions  of  a  repubhc— - 
manhood  suffi»ge,  vote  by  ballot,  muni-  . 
cipal  and  local  coimcils,  representation 
at  the  CcmsffU'O&rUral,  which  sits  at 
Pondicherry,  and  in  the  chambers  in 
France  by  a  senator  and  a  deputy, 
who  in  practice,  however,  are  always 
residents  in  France.  The  Adminis- 
traJtewr  is  appointed  from  home.  He 
represents  tne  central,  and  the  Maire 
the  local  Government. 

536  m.  Calient  sta.  3^  The  terminus 
of  the  S.W.  branch  of  the  Madras 
Railway.  Pop.  1881,  57,000;  1891, 
66,000.  Good  D.B.,  also  two  hotels. 
Anchorage  2  m.  from  shore.  Boats  2} 
rs.  each. 

Buchanan  (vol.  ii.  p.  474)  says : 
**The  proper  name  of  this  place  is 
Colicndu.  When  Cheruman  rerumal 
bad  divided  Malabar  among  his  nobles, 
and  had  no  principality  remaining  to 
bestow  on  the  ancestor  of  the  Tam/uri, 
he  gave  that  chief  his  sword,  with  all 
the  territory  in  which  a  cock  crowing 
at  a  small  temple  here  could  be  heard. 
This  formed  the  original  dominions  of 
the  Tamuri,  and  was  called  Colicudu, 
'  or  the  cock-crowing."  The  native  town 
is  but  little  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
There  is  a  long  bazaar  with  numerous 
small  cross  streets  leading  from  it  To 
the  S.  stretching  to  the  right,  is  the 
Mapilah  quarter,  where  are  many 
mosques.  At  West  Hill  there  are 
barracks  for  a  small  detachment  of 
British  troops  kept  there  to  overawe 
the  turbulent  Mapilahs  (see  below). 
On  the  N.W.  is  the  Portuguese  quarter, 
with  a  B.C.  Church  and  a  large  tank  ; 
also  the  Collector's  Cutcheriy.  The 
jail  is  also  in  the  Portuguese  quarter. 
To  the  N.  of  the  jail  is  the  old  burial- 
ground,  which  is  close  to  the  pier. 
Here  is  interred  Henry  Valentine 
Conolly,  collector  and  magistrate  of 


368 


ROUTE  28.       BOKBAT  TO  COLOMBO 


India 


Malabar,  who  was  murdered  on  the  1 1th 
September  1855.  There  was  a  dispute 
among  the  Mapilah  (Moplas)  respecting 
some  land,  and  some  of  these  fanatics 
resolved  to  sacrifice  the  man  who  had 
decided  against  them.  A  band  of  these 
assassins  burst  in  upon  him  and  stabbed 
him  to  death.  They  then  went  off  to 
Mallapuram,  the  headquarters  of  this 
turbulent  sect.  An  express  was  sent 
off  to  the  troops  at  Cannannore,  and 
they  were  in  Calicut  next  day.  They 
then  proceeded  to  Mallapuram,  where 
the  Sepoys  were  repulsed  by  the 
Mapilahia,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
bring  down  European  soldiers.  The 
resistance  of  the  rebels  was  then 
speedily  overcome.  Mr.  H.  V.  ConoUy 
was  brother  of  Arthur  ConoUy  who 
perished  at  BukJiara,  The  oldest  in- 
scription that  can  now  be  read  is  to 
Richard  Harrison,  who  died  on  the 
14th  April  1717.  Facing  the  sea  are 
the  houses  of  the  European  gentry  and 
the  custom  house,  and  also  th^  club. 
There  is  a  great  appearance  of  neatness 
and  comfort  in  the  houses  even  of  the 
very  poor  about  this  locality.  The 
cantonment  and  the  collector's  resi- 
dence are  2  m.  N.  of  the  town,  on  a 
hill. 

At  Calicut,  on  the  11th  of  May 
1498,  arrived  the  adventurous  Vasco 
da  Gama,  ten  months  and  two  days 
after  his  departure  from  Lisbon.  It 
then  contained  many  noble  buildings, 
especially  a  Brahman  temple  said  to 
have  been  not  inferior  to  tne  greatest 
monastery  in  Portugal.  The  native 
Rajah,  the  Tamurin,  was  called  Zamor- 
in  by  European  writers.  This  prince 
once  ruled  over  an  extensive  territory, 
but  his  successors  are  now  stipendiaries 
of  the  English  Grovemment.  In  1509 
the  Marecnal  of  Portugal,  Don  Fer- 
nando Coutinho,  made  an  attack  on 
Calicut  with  3000  men,  but  was  him- 
self slain  and  his  forces  repulsed  with 
great  loss.  In  1610  Albuquerque 
landed,  burnt  the  town,  and  plundered 
the  palace,  but  was  eventually  put  to 
flight,  and  was  obliged  to  sail  away 
with  great  loss.  In  1613  the  Rajah 
concluded  a  peace  with  the  Portuguese, 
and  permitted  them  to  build  a  fortified  I 
factory.     In  1616  an  English  factory! 


was  established  at  CaUcut.  In  1691 
Captain  Eidd  the  pirate  ravaged  tin 
port.  In  1766  Hyder  *Ali  invaded 
the  country,  and  the  Rajah,  findisf^i 
that  his  ofiers  of  submission  would  oi 
in  vain,  barricaded  himself  in  his 
palace,  and  setting  fire  to  it,  perished'^ 
m  the  flames.  Hyder  was  soon  caM  ' 
off  to  the  war  in  Arcot,  and  the 
territory  of  the  Rajah,  of  Calicut  re- 
volted, but  was  re-conquered  in  1778* 
by  Mysore.  In  1782  the  victors  were 
expelled  by  the  English,  and  in  178» 
Tipu  again  overran  the  country,  and 
iMd  it  waste  with  fire  and  swaid. 
Many  women  were  hanged  with  th^ 
infants  round  their  necks ;  others  wen 
trampled  under  the  feet  of  elephaiit& 
The  cocoa-nut  and  sandal  tr^  were 
cut  down,  and  the  plantations  of 
pepper  were  torn  up  by  the  roots.  The 
town  was  almost  entirely  demolished, 
and  the  materials  carried  to  Nellm, 
6  m.  to  the  S.E.,  to  build  a  fort  and 
town  called  FarrvJchdbad,  "Fortunate 
Cily. "  The  next  year,  however,  Tipu's 
general  was  totally  defeated  and  taka 
prisoner  with  900  of  his  men  by  the 
British,  who  captured  the  so-called 
"Fortunate  City";  and  in  1792  the 
whole  territory  was  ceded  to  the 
English  Government.  Since  that  time 
the  country  has  gradually  recov^ 
itself.  It  is  said  that  two  pillara  of 
the  old  palace  in  which  Da  Gama  was 
received  stiU  remain,  as  well  as'a  portico 
and  some  traces  of  a  terrace,  and 
houses  for  Brahmans.  It  is  said  the 
Portuguese  leader  knelt  down  on  his 
way  to  some  Hindu  idols,  taking  tJiem 
for  distorted  images  of  Catholic  saints. 
"Perhaps  they  may  be  devils,"  said 
one  of  the  sailors.  "  No  matter,"  said 
another,  "I  kneel  before  them  and 
worship  the  true  God."  The  noble 
avenue  which  leads  to  the  ruins  of  the 
old  palace  leads  also  to  the  new,  which 
is  a  low  tasteless  building.  The  French 
have  still  a  lodge  at  CsSiont,  in  which 
is  one  solitary  watchman.  Cotton 
cloth,  originally  imported  from  this 
town,  derives  from  it  its  name  of  caUxo. 
Beypur,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bey- 
pur  river,  6  m.  S.  of  Calicut,  was 
formerly  the  terminus  of  the  Madras 
Railway  on  the  west  coast,  and  pw- 


ROUTE  28.      NARAKAL — COCHIN 


369 


Dgers  had  to  cross  a  wide  estuary  b^ 
at  and  then  travel  by  road  to  Uah- 
t ;  but  in  1890  the  line  was  diverted 
me  miles  N.  of  Beypor,  and  extended 
Calient,  and  Beypur  abandoned  as  a 
ilway  station.  The  Portuguese  estab- 
hed  a  factory  (Kalyan)  here,  but  it 
led.  Tipu  selected  it  as  the  site  of 
&  capital  of  Malabar,  but  hardly  a 
rtige  of  its  sboi-t- lived  importance 
8  survived.  In  1797  sawiaills,  in 
05  a  canvas  factory,  in  3  84  3  iron- 
isrks,  and  still  later,  ship -building 
irks  wore  staited  at  Bcymu*,  but  all 
rtn  one  cause  or  another  have  failed. 
>n  ore  and  a  sort  of  Hguito  both 
ist  m  the  immediate  vicinitv.  The 
ik  wrown  on  the  ghats  to  the  E.  is 
ated  down  to  Beypur  for  exportation. 
few  miles  from  the  town  lies  the  site 
Ferokh  ("Tipu's  City"),  and  6  m.  E. 
Chataparamha  ("Field  of  Death  "), 
markable  for  its  ancient  stone  circles 
id  monuments  (see  Trcms,  Lin,  Soc. 
>mbay,  vol.  iii.  p.  324),  resembling 
te  cromlechs  of  Salem  and  Coimbatore, 
id  called  by  the  natives  budei-kullu, 
"umbrella  stones." 

627  m.  Narakal.  Anchorage  3  m. 
am  the  shore.  Boat  hire  1^  r.  each 
)at.  The  handbook  of  the  British 
idia  Steam  Navigation  Company  says : 
This  port,  which  is  6  m.  N.  of  Cochin, 

not  affected  by  the  S.W.  monsoon, 
id  is  therefore  a  regular  port  of  call 
oring  that  season,  when  passengers 
ho  land  there  can  proceed  by  back- 
ater  to  stations  on  the  Madras  Rail- 
ay."  The  place  owes  its  advantages 
>  a  bank  which  stretches  about  2)  m. 
Jaward,  and  is  4  m.  long.  Within 
liis  vessels  can  run  in  the  worst  of  the 
."W.  monsoon  when  aU  other  ports  on 
be  coast  are  closed. 

637m.  CooMD.(Ku(^ibandcur),i^  D.B. 
stir.  Anchorage  IJ  m.  from  the  shore. 
Joat  hire  IJ  r.  per  boat  two  persons. 
*op.  16,000.  Weekly  steamer  to 
Colombo.  It  belongs  to  the  English, 
hough  it  gives  name  to  a  small  native 
principality  extending  over  the  adjacent 
Jerritory,  and  was  formerly  the  capital 
>f  the  Kaia.  The  Resident  of  Travan- 
Mte  is  also  Resident  of  Cochin,  and 
[India] 


there  is  an  Anglican  bishop  for  both 
places. 

The  town  ia  situate  at  the  N.  extrem- 
ity of  a  spit  of  land  about  12  m.  long, 
and  1  m.  to  IJ  m.  wide.  It  is  almost 
insulated  by  inlets  of  sea  and  estuaries 
of  streams  flowing  from  the  W.  ghats. 
Indeed,  the  backwater  ia  of  such  extent 
as  to  be  of  paramount  importance  to 
the  place,  and  to  supply  in  a  great 
degree  the  place  of  a  harbour.  This 
backwater  extends  S.  nearly  to  Kayan 
Kulam,  and  N.  about  40  m.  to  Chaitwa. 
E.  it  has  several  branches,  and  W.  it 
communicates  with  the  sea  by  three 
estuaries,  at  Chaitwa,  Cranganore,  and 
Cochin.  It  is  very  shallow  in  many 
places,  more  particularly  in  the  N.  part 
of  the  Chaitwa  branch,  but  between 
the  inlets  at  Cranganore  and  Cochin, 
and  Cochin  and  Alapalli,  itis  at  aU  times 
navigable,  both  for  passage  and  careo 
boats.  It  shoals,  however,  nrom  Alapalli 
to  the  bar  of  Ivika  near  Kayan  Kulam. 
During  J;he  rains  every  part  is  navig- 
able, flat-bottomed  boate  or  canoes  being 
employed.  The  backwater  is  affectea 
by  the  tides,  which  rise  about  2  ft.,  and 
flow  at  the  rate  of  2)  m.  an  hour. 
Cochin  is  the  onl^  port  S.  of  Bombay 
in  which  large  ships  can  be  built.  In 
1820-21  three  frigates  were  built  here 
for  the  Ro^al  Navy.  Smaller  vessels 
for  the  Indian  Navy  have  likewise  been 
built,  and  some  merchant  ships. 

In  1500  the  Portuguese  adventurer 
Cabral,  after  having  cannonaded  Cali- 
cut, landed  at  Cochin  and  met  with  a 
friendly  reception  from  the  Raja,  a 
reluctant  vassal  of  the  Zamorin. 
Cabral  returned  to  Portugal  with  a 
cargo  of  pepper,  and  was  loUowed  by 
Inan  da  Nova  Castelho.  In  1502 
Vasco  da  Gama  on  his  second  voyage 
came  to  Cochin,  and  established  a 
factory.  In  1503  Albuquerque,  the 
Portuguese  admiral,  arrived  just  in 
time  to  succour  the  Cochin  Raja,  who 
was  besieged  by  the  Zamorin  in  the 
island  of  Vypin.  He  built  the  Cochin 
fort,  called  "Manuel  Kolati,"  the  first 
European  fort  in  India,  just  five  years 
after  Da  Gama  had  arrived  on  the 
Malabar  coast.  Albuquerque  returned 
to  Portugal,  leaving  Cochin  guarded  by 
only  a  few  hundred  men  under  Duarte 
2  B 


370 


ROUTS  28.      BOMBAT  TO  COLOMBO 


IniM 


Paoheoo,  when  the  Zamorin  with  a  large 
host  inyaded  the  oountry  by  land  and 
sea.  Pacheco  with  his  brave  band  of  400 
men  firxnl}r  resisted  all  the  attacks  of 
the  Zamorin,  and  at  last  forced  him  to 
retreat  to  Calicut.  In  1505  Francisco 
Almeyda,  the  first  Portuguese  yioeroy  of 
India,  came  to  Cochin  with  a  luge 
fleet,  and  was  in  1510  succeeded  by 
Albuquerque.  On  Christmas  Day  1524 
Da  Gama  died  here,  and  was  buried, 
according  to  Correa,  whose  narrative  is 
the  most  trustworthy,  in  the  principal 
chapel  of  the  Franciscan  monaste^, 
now  used  as  the  EngUsh  church.  Uis 
body  was  afterwards  (1588)  removed  to 
Portugal.  In  1530  St.  Francis  Xavier, 
the  apostle  of  the  Indies,  preached  in 
these  parts  and  made  many  converts. 
In  1557  the  church  of  Santa  Cruz  was 
consecrated  as  the  cathedral  of  a  bishop. 
In  1577  the  Society  of  Jesus  published 
at  Cochin  the  fint  book  printed  in 
India.  In  1585  Cochin  appears  to 
have  been  visited  by  the  English 
traveller  Ralph  Fitch,  with  his  band 
of  adventurers.  In  1616  the  English, 
under  Keeling,  engaged  to  assist  the 
Zamorin  in  attacking  Cochin,  on  an 
understanding  that  an  English  factory 
was  to  be  established  there.  These 
relations  were,  however,  broken  off,  and 
the  factory  was  built  some  years  later 
with  the  consent  of  the  Portuguese. 
In  1663  the  town  and  fort  were  cap- 
tured from  the  Portuguese  by  the 
Dutch,  and  the  English  retired  to 
Ponani.  The  Dutch  creatly  improved 
the  place  and  its  traae,  building  sub- 
stantial houses  after  the  European 
fashion,  and  erecting  quays,  etc  In 
1776  the  State  of  Cochin  was  subju^ted 
by  Hyder.  In  1792  Tipu  ceded  the 
sovereignty  to  the  British.  In  1796 
it  was  taken  by  the  British  from  the 
Dutch,  and  in  1806,  or,  according  to 
another  account,  in  1814,  the  fortmca- 
tions  were,  by  command  of  Government, 
blowA  up  with  gunpowder.  The  explo- 
sion threw  down  or  shattered  all  the 
best  houses,  and  most  of  the  Dutch 
families  who  could  afford  it  left. 

Cochin  is  remarkable  as  the  resi- 
dence of  the  bUuk  and  the  whUe  JewSt 
who  inhabit  the  suburbs  of  Kalvati 
and  Mottancheri,  which  extend  about  J 


m.  along  the  backwater  to  the  &S. 
of  the  town.  In  Mottancheri  there  il 
a  laige  but  not  very  handsome  Kotaraii^ 
or  palace,  of  the  B%ja,  and  close  to  itii 
the  synagogue  of  the  white  Jews,  c 
Jews  of  Jerusalem,  who  are  said  ts 
have  arrived  in  India  at  a  much  moi 
recent  date  than  the  black  Jews,  whw 
residence  dates  from  time  immeauoriiL 
The  white  Jews  inhabit  the  upper  pait ' 
of  Jews'  Town,  the  black  Jews  the  lomr 
part  There  are  also  a  great  munlw 
of  black  Jews  in  the  interior,  tfaor 
principal  towns  being  Iritor,  Fani^ 
Chenotta,  and  Haleb.  There  is  eTei| 
reason  for  believing  that  the  black  Jen 
were  established  at  Cranganore  in  tk 
3d  or  4th  century  A.D.  They  possei 
a  copper  srant  from  the  Brahmai 
Prince  of  Malabar,  conferring  the  aat 
place  upon  them,  and  dated  388  A^ji^ 
or,  according  to  Hamilton,  490.  Feoph 
here  are  subi'ect  to  cutaneous  disease 
and  especiallv  elephantiasis,  which! 
sometimes  called  the  Cochin  leg. 

There  is  an  interesting  sect  of  Gfaii^ 
tians  in  Cochin  state  and  elsewha 
on  the  Malabar  coast,  especially  I 
Eottayam— the  Nazpani.  Theyn 
often  termed  Nestorians,  though  ihq 
themselves  do  not  accept  the  nanM 
They  ascribe  their  conversion  to  th 
preachinf  of  St.  Thomas,  and  until  til 
arrival  of  the  Portuguese  ^ey  were  i 
united  church,  holdmg  a  simple  foitL 
About  850  they  were  joined  by  i 
colony  of  Syrian  Christuuis,  who  aii 
said  to  have  landed  at  Malabar ;  and  ii 
the  9th  and  10th  centuries  more  cami 
from  Bagdad,  Nineveh,  and  JerasaleoL 
As  early  as  the  9th  oentuij  th^  wen 
high  in  favour  with  the  Esga  of  ^van- 
core.  Eventually  they  became  inde- 
pendent and  elected  a  sovereign  of, 
their  own;  and  though  subsequent 
they  had  to  acknowledge  the  supremiCT 
of  the  Cochin  Baja,  they  still  preserm 
many  of  their  privileges. 

The  Portuguese,  under  Oardioil 
Ximenes  and  tneir  Goa  Yiceroys,  tried 
to  bring  them  into  the  fold  of  Borne, 
and  to  extirpate  the  Jaool&te  heresy, 
which  naturally  took  firm  root  in 
a  community  recruited  from  tbi! 
neighbourhood  of  Persia  and  TorloBk  | 
Arabia.     The  Dutch  put  an  end  tt 


ROUTE 


MADRAS  TO  BAITaALORB   AKD   HTSORB 


371 


ius  persecutioii,  and  sappoited  the 
Syrian  Christians,  who  in  1653  sent 
4>  Antioch  for  a  bishop.  He,  on  his 
irrival,  was  put  to  death  by  the  Portu- 
gese. When  the  rule  of  the  Portuguese 
seased  they  were  left  with  a  divided 
Jhnrch.  From  that  date  to  the  be- 
onning  of  the  present  century  the 
}liarch,  by  '*  schisms  rent  asunder," 
ms  administered  partly  by  native 
bishops  and  partly  by  bishops  from 
3pia ;  and  to  this  day  there  are  two 
inshops  amongst  them,  one,  Mar  Diony- 
dns,  who  heads  the  non- reformers, 
ind  another,  Mar  Athanasins,  of  the 
party  of  reform.  The  Syrian  Jacobites  ^ 
lumber  some  300,000  in  all,  and  hold 
nost  tenaciously  to  differences  of 
loctrine,  such  as  divided  the  early 
Christian  Church,  and  such  as  nowadays 
txdte  a  merely  academical  interest. 
Besides  these  there  are  the  Syrian 
Soman  Catholics,  descendants  of  those 
ibrdbly  converted  by  the  Portuguese. 
They  are  a  peaceful  and  well-ordered 
people,  on  good  terms  with  the  Govem- 
iient,  be  it  British  or  native,  on  the 
KMtst,  and  they  retain,  in  their  internal 
leonomy,  many  interesting  forms  and 
tsremonies  relating  to  the  time  when 
^ey  were  governed  by  a  king,  who 
Iras  recognised  as  such  by  the  native 
lings  of  the  coast 

769  m.  Kolachel,  D.B.  A  very 
indent  port,  asain  rising  into  some 
mportance,  in  the  Travancore  state  in 
ihe  extreme  south  of  India.  It  is  prob- 
ably the  Kolias  of  Strabo.  Some 
lenturies  ago  it  was  occupied  by  the 
Danes. 

875  m.  Taticorin  8ta.,3^  D.K,  ter- 
ninus  of  S.  Indian  Rly.,  448  m.  from 
iladras  by  rail.  A  municipal  and 
lommerdal  town,  exporting  large 
[uantities  of  cotton,  coffee,  corn,  cattle, 
ytc.  ;  pop.  27,000.  The  anchorage  is 
>m.  from  the  shore.  Passengers  are 
ionveyed  to  and  frt>m  the  steamers  of 
.he  Brit.  Ind.  S.  N.  Co.  in  their 
iteam-lannch.    Fare  2  rs.  each.    There 

1  For  the  oldest  Christian  inscriptions  of 
aie  Kestorians,  at  St.  Thome  and  Eottayam 
H  the  same  characters  as  those  found  on  the 
hmouB  Bi-gnan-fb  in  N.  Ghins^-see  Dr. 
3eorge  Smith's  Conwrsioti  aflndiut  chap.  ii. 


is  a  daily  steamer  hence  to  Colombo,' 
in  connection  with  the  South  Indian 
Railway  from  Madras. 

The  place  was  famous  for  its  pearl- 
fishery,  which  extended  from  Cape 
Comorin  to  the  Pamban  Channel. 
Csesar  Frederick,  who  visited  India 
1563-81,  teUs  us  that  the  fishing  begins 
in  March  or  April,  and  lasts  fifty  days. 
It  is  never  in  the  same  spot  during  two 
consecutive  years ;  but  when  the 
season  .approaches,  good  divers  are 
sent  to  examine  where  the  greatest 
number  of  ovsters  are  to  be  found,  and 
when  thev  have  settled  that  point,  a 
village  is  built  of  stone  opposite  to  it, 
should  there  have  been  no  village  there 
previously,  and  an  influx  of  people  and 
of  the  necessaries  of  life  follows.  The 
fishers  and  divers  are  mostly  native 
Christians.  Owing  to  he  deepening  of 
the  Pamban  Channel,  these  banks  no 
longer  produce  the  pearl-oysters  in 
such  remunerative  quantities,  but 
chank  shells  are  still  found  and  ex- 
ported to  Bengal.  The  pearl  fisheries 
are  carried  on  at  intervals  of  a  few 
years,  under  Government  supervision. 

The  S.P.G.  have  a  Misson-house 
here,  and  a  Training  School. 

Small  schooners  sail  from  Tuticorin 
to  Paumben  opposite  the  famous  island 
of  Rameswaram  (see  p.  400) ;  but  the 
more  usual  route  is  from  Negapatam 
(see  p.  400). 


ROUTE  29 

Madras  to  Bangalore  and  Mysore 

Madras  to,  42  m.,  Arkonam  June  sta. 
(See  p.  335.) 

65  m.  Arcot  sta.  mentioned  by 
Ptolemy.  The  town  is  5  m.  S,  of  the 
railway  station  and  across  the  Palar 
river  JRanipet,  the  civil  station  and 
residence  of  the  Europeans,  is  3.  m. 
from  the  railway  before  the  river  is 
crossed.    The  place  has  ceased  to  be  a 


378 


BOUTK  29.     If  ADBAB  TO  BANOALOBE  AND  KTSOBB 


military    stotion.    Then   is   a   large 
•agar  Uctaty  and  distillery. 

On  approaching  the  town  a  small 
pagoda  18  reached  and  portions  of  the 
town-wall,  which  was  a  massive  strao- 
ture  of  red  brick.  It  was  blown  np 
with  gunpowder,  but  the  foimdations 
remain,  and  huge  fra^ents  are  seen 
solid  as  rocks.  Contmuing  the  same 
course  along  the  bank  of  the  Palar, 
after  i  m.  Sie  Delhi  Qate  is  reached, 
which  is  the  only  one  that  remains 
so  far  uniigured  that  it  is  poonble 
to  form  an  idea  of  what  the  fortifica- 
tion was.  Above  the  gate  is  Clivers 
room.  Much  of  the  moat  is  now  used 
for  ^wing  rice.  Returning  to  the 
Delhi  Gate,  take  a  road  which  leads 
S.  from  it  into  the  heart  of  the  old 
town.  After  J  m.  the  Taluk  OtUcherry 
is  reached,  a  pretty  building  erected  in 
187i.  After  passing  this  buildings  turn 
to  the  £.  and  cross  a  very  broad  moat, 
which  surrounded  the  citskdel,  and  isnow 
dry,  with  trees  growing  in  it  Here  are 
two  small  tanks,  which  once  had  foun- 
tains in  the  centre.  The  water  was  raised 
into  them  by  wheels  turned  by  ele- 

Ehants.  The  water  for  the  tanks  was 
rought  from  a  large  reservoir  near  the 
Nawab's  palace.  Near  this  is  the  Mak' 
barah,  or  Tonib  of  Sa'adahu*Uah  Khan, 
In  the  same  enclosure  is  the  Jwmma 
Musjid,  The  tomb  has  a  stone  inserted 
over  the  door  with  an  inscription,  which 
says  that  the  Nawab  died  1733  a.d. 

W.  of  the  Jumma  Musjid  is  themmed 
Palace  of  the  Nawaibs  of  the  CamatiCf 
on  a  mount  oyerlooking  the  large  lake 
called  the  Nawab's  Tank.  The  walls 
of  the  durbar-room  are  still  standing. 
Opposite  is  the  Kali  Ifu^'id,  or  Bla& 
Mosoue,  and  near  the  pakce  is  the  tomb 
of  a  Mohammedan  ascetic.  Shah  Khizr 
Langotbund,  with  a  rather  handsome 
dome.  To  the  W.  is  the  mosque  of 
.  Fakir  Muhammad.  Near  it  is  a  tomb, 
ai)parently  unfinished,  in  which  was 
laid  the  body  of  the  Nizam  Nasir  Jang, 
murdeoed  by  the  Nawab  of  Eadapa  on 
ftth  December  1750.  It  wss  shortly 
afterwards  removed  to  Hyderabad! 
Just  across  the  road  is  the  tomb  of 
Tijm  Auliya,  or  Saint  TKpu,  of  brick, 
whitewashed.  In  the  W.  wall  is  a 
stone  with  an  inscription,  which  says 


that  Sa'adatullah  Khan  erected  i 
tomb  for  'Hpu,  who  was  a  man  of  fl 
Whether  ^pn  Sultan  got  his  « 
from  this  saint,  or,  as  Wuks  says,  t 
a  word  signifying  **  tiger,"  is  doaU 

History. 

Arcot  derives  its  name  from  A 
kadUy  '*six  forests,"  where  six  B» 
or  holy  men,  dwelt.  Adondai, 
conquered  Tondamandalam  in 
A.D.,  drove  out  the  aborigines 
these  forests,  and  built  various  ta 
there.  These  went  to  ruin,  wd 
place  again  became  desolate,  till 
came  from  Penukonda  and  built  s 
there.  Zu'l&kar  Ehan,  Aurangi 
general,  took  Gingi  in  1698  A.D., 
made  Daud  Ehan  Oovemor  of  Ai 
under  which  district  Gingi  was  indd 
This  officer  colonised  the  countiy  « 
Mohammedans.  TJntai7l2theMdhi 
medan  governors  resided  at  Gingi,  iH 
Sa'adatullah  Ehan,  who  first  took 
title  of  Nawab  of  the  Caruatic, 
Aroot  his  capital  Arcot,  however 
chiefly  known  to  us  for  the  glee 
cfmture  and  defence  of  it  bv  Capt.  C3 
who  here  laid  the  foundation  ol 
great  celebril^.  When  the  French  i 
Chanda  Sahib  besieged  Trichin( 
in  1751,  Olive  led  an  expedition  sg 
Arcot  in^rder  to  divert  a  part  of 
enemy  from  the  siege.  Clive  had 
him  only  200  English,  with  8 
6  of  whom  had  never  before  been 
action  ;  he  had  also  300  Sepoys 
field-pieces.  With  this  small  fowje 
left  Madras  ou  the  26th  of  August, 
arrived  at  Conieveram  on  &e  2J 
Here  he  learned  that  the  garrisoD 
Arcot  amounted  to  1100  men.  On  4 
31st  he  arrived  within  10  m.  of  Aroil 

and  marched  on  throi^h  a 

storm  of  thunder,  lightning,  and 
The  enemies'  spies  reportra  tiie 
froid  with  which  the  Bniglish  advanoi 
under  such   circumstances,  and  tio^ 
made  such  an  impression  on  the  gai» 
son  that  they  abandoned  tiie  fort.   Oi, 
the  4th  of  September  GUve 
out  against  the  garrison,  who  had 
up  a  position  at  Timeri,  a  fort  6 
of  Arcot.    The  enemy  retreated  to 
hills,  and  the  English  retomed  to 
fort,  but  marched  out  again  a 


BOUTS  S9.      ABOOT 


373 


fane  on  the  6th,  and  drove  the  enemy 
rom  a  tank  near  Timeri,  where  they 
ftd  ensconced  ihemselyes.  After  ten 
kys  the  enemy,  who  by  reinforcementB 
ad  grown  to  8000  men,  encamped 
rithin  8  m.  of  Aroot,  where  they  were 
ttaoked  at  2  A.M.  on  the  14th  of  Sep- 
ember  by  Glive,  and  utterly  routed. 
Vo  18 -pounders  despatched  from 
ladias  had  now  nearly  reached  Clive, 
rho  sent  out  all  the  men  he  had,  ex- 
apt  80  Europeans  and  50  Sepoys,  to 
nnpr  them  in.  During  this  emergency 
he  enemy  attacked  Arcot,  but  were 
ignally  repulsed.  Ghanda  Sahib  now 
ant  4000  men  from  Trichinopoly 
nder  his  son  Raja  Sahib,  who  entered 
he  town  of  Arcot  on  the  28d  of  Sep- 
smber.  On  the  24th  Olive  sallied  from 
he  citadel,  and  fought  a  desperate 
attle  with  Raja  SahiKs  force.  On  the 
5th  Murtaza  'All  brought  2000  men 
rom  Yellore  to  join  Raja  Sahib.  Olive's 
itnation  now  appeared  desperate : 
'The  fort  was  more  than  1  m.  in  cir- 
amference "  (Orme,  book  iii.  p.  198) ; 
'the  walls  were  in  many  places  min- 
OB  ;  the  rampart  too  narrow  to  admit 
he  firing  of  artillery  ;  the  parapet  low 
nd  slightly  built ;  several  of  the  towers 
rere  decayed,  and  none  of  them  capable 
f  receiving  more  th^n  one  piece  of 
mnon ;  the  ditch  wai  in  most  places 
dtdable,  in  others  dry,  and  in  some 
hoked  up ;  there  was  between  the  foot 
f  the  walls  and  the  ditch  a  space  about 
0  fL  broad,  intended  for  a  fausse-braye, 
at  this  had  no  parapet  at  the  scarp  of 
he  ditch.  The  fort  had  two  gates, 
ne  to  the  N.W.,  the  other  to  the  E., 
oth  of  which  were  large  piles  of 
lasonry  projecting  40  ft.  beyond  the 
rails,  and  the  passage  from  these  sates 
ras,  instead  of  a  (Sawbridge,  a  Wge 
anseway  crossing  the  ditch.  The  gar- 
Iflon  had  from  their  arrival  employed 
hemselves  inde&tigably  to  remove  and 
epair  as  many  of  these  inconveniences 
nd  defects  as  the  smallness  of  their 
lumbeors  could  attend  to.  They  had 
ndeavoured  to  burn  down  several  of 
he  nearest  houses,  but  without  success ; 
or  these  having  no  woodwork  in  their 
onstruotion,  excepting  the  beams 
rhich  supported  the  ceiline,  resisted 
he  blaze.    Of  these  houses  the  enemy's 


infantry  took  possession,  and  began  to 
fire  upon  the  ramparts,  and  wounded 
several  of  the  garrison  before  ni^t, 
when  they  retir^.  At  midnight  En- 
sign Glass  was  sent  with  10  men  and 
some  barrels  of  gunpowder  to  blow  up 
two  of  the  houses  which  most  annoyea 
the  fort.  This  party  .were  let  down 
by  ropes  over  the  walls,  and  entering 
the  houses  without  being  discovered, 
made  the  explosion,  but  with  so  little 
skill  that  it  did  not  produce  the  in- 
tended effect ;  at  their  return  the  rope 
by  which  Ensign  Glass  was  getting  into 
the  fort  broke,  and  he  wasljy  the  fall 
rendered  incapable  of  further  duty ;  so 
that,  at  the  beginning  of  the  siege,  the 
garrison  was  (Wprived  of  the  services 
of  4  of  the  8  officers  who  set  out  on  the 
expedition,  and  the  troops  fit  for  duty 
were  diminished  to  120  Europeans  and 
200  Sepoys ;  these  were  besieged  by 
150  Europeans,  2000  Sepoys,  8000 
cavalry,  and  500  peons." 

Macaulay  says:  "During  fifty  days 
the  siege  went  on.  During  fifty  davs 
the  young  captain  maintained  tne 
defence  with  a  firmness,  vigilance,  and 
ability  which  would  have  done  honour 
to  the  oldest  marshal  in  Europe.  The 
breach,  however,  increased  day  by  day. 
The  garrison  began  to  feel  the  pressure 
of  hunger.  Under  such  circumstances 
any  troops,  so  scantily  provided  with 
officers,  might  have  been  expected  to 
show  signs  of  insubordination ;  and 
the  danger  was  peculiarly  ^rea,t  in  a 
force  composed  of  men  differmg  widely 
frt)m  each  other  in  extraction,  colour, 
language,  manners,  and  religion.  But 
the  devotion  of  the  little  band  to  its 
chief  surpassed  anything  that  is  related 
of  the  Tenth  Legion  of  Osesar,  or  the 
Old  Guard  of  Napoleon.  The  Sepojrs 
came  to  Olive,  not  to  complain  of  their 
scanty  fare,  but  to  propose  that  all  the 
grain  should  be  given  to  the  Europeans, 
who  required  more  nourishment  than 
the  natives  of  Asia.  The  thin  gruel, 
they  said,  which  was  strained  away 
from  the  rice,  would  suffice  for  them- 
selves. History  contains  no  more 
touching  instance  of  military  fidelity, 
or  of  the  influence  of  a  commanding 
mind." 

It  was  now  that  the  gallantry  of 


374 


ROUTE  29.       MAJ>RA8  TO  BANGALORE  AND  ICTBORB  Illi 


Olive's  defenoe  00  impreflsed  the  Ma- 
ratha  leader,  Morari  Kao,  who  was  at 
the  head  of  6000  men,  that  he  declared 
that  he  had  till  then  never  believed 
that  Englishmen  conld  fight,  but  see- 
ing their  spirit  he  was  £termined  to 
heip^  them,  and  he  put  his  troops  in 
motion.  This  alarmed  Biga  Sahib, 
and  he  determined  to  storm  Aroot 
before  saooonr  oould  arrive.  He  chose 
the  great  day  of  the  Muharram,  and 
Clive,  who  was  exhausted  with  fatigue, 
was  roused  by  the  shouts  of  the  enemy 
rushing  to  the  attack,  and  was  instantly 
at  his  post.  The  struggle  lasted  about 
an  hour;  400  of  the  assailants  were 
killed,  while  the  garrison  lost  four 
Europeans  killed,  and  two  Sepoys 
wounded.  At  2  a.m.  next  morning 
the  enemy  abandoned  their  camp,  into 
which  the  garrison  marohedand  brought 
off  four  guns,  four  mortars,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  ammunition.  Thus  endeid 
on  the  16th  Novemberthis  famous  siege, 
and  Clive,  being  reinforced  by  Captain 
Kilpatriok,  nu^ohed  out  on  the  19th 
and  took  the  fort  of  Timeri,  and  a  few 
days  after  defeated  a  force  of  800 
French,  2000  horse,  and  2500  Sepoys 
with  four  guns,  and  took  Ami  with 
Raja  Sahib^  treasure-chest,  and  much 


In  1758  M.  Lally  got  possession 
of  the  Fort  of  Arcot  by  bribing  the 
Indian  governor ;  but  in  1760  it  was 
recaptured  from  ^e  French  by  Colonel 
Coote.  In  1780  Hyder  'Ali,  after  his 
victory  at  Coijjeveram  over  Colonel 
BaiUie,  made  himself  master  of  Arcot, 
and  strengthened  the  fortifications,  but 
Tipu  abandoned  it  in  1783,  and  ordered 
the  wall  on  two  sides  to  be  thrown 
down ;  subsequently  (1803)  it  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  British  along 
with  the  other  possessions  of  the 
Nawabs  of  the  Camatic. 

80  m.  Katpadi  sta.  (R.) 

[Vellore  is  4  m.  S.  of  the  rly.  sta., 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Palar  river, 
which  is  spanned  by  a  fine  brick  brid^. 
Covered  vehicles  drawn  by  pomes 
and  li^ht  bullock-carts  alwa3rs  meet 
the  tram.  But  there  is  now  a  line  of 
rail  from  Vlllupuram  to  NeUore,  with 


a  station  at  Vellore,  and  another 
KatpadL 

Ihe  Fort  of  Vellore  dates  from 
end  of  the  11th  century.  It  was  n 
over  to  Narsing  Raja,  of  V\jayuu| 
about  1500  A.D.  It  ia  surrounded 
a  deep  ditch  200  ft.  broad.  The 
thinff  to  be  noticed  is  a  well  aboat 
yds.  x^.W.  of  the  Assistant-Colledi 
house.  Into  this  well  the  bodiei 
the  Europeans  killed  in  the  mutinl 
1806  were  thrown.  Up  to  1874  d 
were  cannon  placed  round  this  weD, 

The  {>rincipal  object  of  inteiesll 
Vellore  is  the  Pagoda^  which  is  oir" 
the  most  remarkable  in  India,  and 
been  restored  by  (xovemment.  Q 
saOTod  to  Jalagandar  Ishwara,  *' 
god  that  dwells  in  water,"  t.«. 
There  are  two  dwarpals  at  the 
of  the  gopura,  of  blue  granite,  w] 
when  struck  emit  a  singularly  m  ' 
sound.  The  figures  are  seated, 
door  is  very  handsome,  of  wood 
with  bosses  of  iron  like  lotus  flov 
The  entrance  is  under  the  gopnn, 
ite  sides  are  lined  with  pilasters  0 
mented  with  circular  medallions 
taining     groups     of    figures.      ' 

gopura  has  seven  stories,  and  is  10 
igh.  It  is  quite  easy  to  ascend  to 
very  top.  After  passing  through 
gopura,  you  have  on  your  left  at^ 
oifftance  of  a  few  yards  a  stone  pai  * 
called  the  Kcdytm  Mcmdapcm,  e 
sitely  carved.  On  either  side  of  ^ 
steps  by  which  you  ascend  into 
mandapam  are  pillars,  which  sie 
liths,  carved  torepresentvariousai 
and  monsters  (including  the  Simh 
Lion  of  the  South,  rearing  up,  wit 
round  stone  in  ite  mouth),  one  al 
another  in  a  wav  which  shows  ] 
digious  labour  and  great  skilL  In 
portico  or  ante -chamber  is  a 
f uUy  carved  ceiling,  with  a  centre-^ 
representinga  fruit,  round  which  pad 
are  duster^  in  a  circle,  hangmf 
their  claws  with  their  heads  da 
towards  the  fruit ;  also  several 
carved  pillars,  all  entirely  diff€ 
from  eaon  other.  Opposite  this  1 
dapam,  in  the  E.  comer,  is  a  wel] 
pure  water.  A  corridor  runs  round 
enclosure,  supported  by  ninety* 
pillars,  all  with  oarvingson  them.  U 


BOUTB  29.       YELLORE 


376 


a  a  m&ndapam  at  each  corner  of  the 
inclosure,  but  that  above  desoribed  is 
>y  far  the  most  ornamental.  In  the 
i;opura  itself  is  a  slab  with  seventeen 
jnes  in  the  old  Granthi  Tamil,  whioh 
las  not  yet  been  deciphered.  Opposite 
the  ffopnra  is  a  long  low  builaing  of 
^nite,  the  blocks  being  adjusted 
witli  the  greatest  care.  In  this, 
no  doubt,  formerly  was  the  adytum, 
but  it  is  now  so  dark  that  notiiing 
can  be  seen  without  torches.  Ferffus- 
8on  says,  "the  great  cornice  here 
with  its  double  flexures  and  its  little 
trellis -work  of  supports  is  not  only 
yery  elegant  in  form,  but  one  of 
those  marvels  of  patient  industry  such 
as  are  to  be  found  hardly  anywhere 
else.  .  .  .  The  traditions  of  the  place 
assi^  the  erection  of  the  Yellore  porch 
to  the  year  1360,  and  though  this  is 
perhaps  beins  too  precise,  it  is  not  far 
from  the  truth." 

Around  St  John's  Church  are  the 
mahals  which  have  been  the  residence 
of  the  famil]^  and  descendants  of  Ti^u 
since  1802.  There  is  a  fine  tank,  in 
deepening  which  the  relief  funds  in  the 
famine  of  1877  were  expended  to  the  ex- 
tent of  60, 000  rs.  The  Old  Cemetery  is  a 
little  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Fort.  In  the 
centre  of  the  enclosure  is  a  magnificent 
pipul  tree,  and  in  the  right-hand  comer 
of  the  cemetery  is  a  waUed-in  enclosure 
with  a  low  8arcoj>hagus  inscribed  to 
the  memory  of  Ijieuts.  Popham  and 
£ley  and  80  soldiers  of  the  69th  Begt., 
who  fell  during  the  mutiny  of  1806. 

At  the  time  of  the  mutiny,  besides 
the  69th  Refirt.,  there  were  6  companies 
of  the  1st  battalion  of  the  Ist  Kegt. 
K.I.,  and  the  2d  battalion  of  the  23d 
N.  I.  in  the  Fort,  and  the  Sepoys  mus- 
tered 1500  to  the  370  English  soldiers. 
The  native  officers  led  the  Sepoys  to  the 
attack,  and  maintained  a  murderous 
discharge  of  musketry  on  the  European 
barracks.  Detachments  were  also  told 
ofif  to  shoot  the  officers  as  they  came 
out  of  their  houses.  Thus  Col.  Fan- 
court  of  the  69th  who  commanded  the 
whole  garrison,  was  killed,  as  was 
Lieut. -Col.  M'Keera,  commanding  the 
23d  N.I.  13  officers  were  killed,  and 
several  English  conductors  of  ordnance 
at   their   nouses.      In    the    barracks 


82  privates  were  killed,  and  91  wounded. 
A  ^few  officers,  who  had  successfully 
defended  themselves  in  a  house,  forced 
their  way  to  the  barracks,  and  put 
themselves  at  the  head  of  the  survivmg 
soldiers.  The  followers  of  the  state 
prisoners  hoisted  Tipu's  flag.  The 
men  of  the  69th,  however,  fouffht  their 
way  to  the  flag-staff  and  pulled  it  down ; 
they  then  made  their  way  to  the  third 
flateway,  which  they  opened  to  CoL 
Gillespie,  when  he  came  up  from  Arcot 
with  a  squadron  of  the  19th  Dragoons 
and  a  troop  of  the  7th  Native  Cavalry. 
300  to  400  of  the  mutineers  were  killed 
and  many  ti^en  prisoners,  and  the 
numbers  of  the  regiments  were  erased 
from  the  Army  Lists  (see  Mill,  voL  vii 
pp.  121,  122). 

Siamiu  Makanif  the  tomb  of  a 
Mohammedan  saint,  is  in  a  street  of 
the  same  name  about  260  yds.  W.  of 
the  Fort.  They  expect  you  to  take  off 
your  shoes  if  you  enter  the  verandah 
of  the  makbarah,  or  tomb. 

The  tombs  of  Tipu*8  family  are  }  m. 
to  the  W.  of  the  Fort  in  a  well-kept 
enclosure.  Rt.  of  the  entrance  is  tne 
tomb  of  Padshah  Begam,  wife  of  Tipu, 
1834  A.D.  The  second  tomb  on  the 
right  is  that  of  Aftab  Ehan,  who  was 
second  instructor  to  the  ladies.  Next 
comes  a  handsome  tank,  with  stone 
embankment  and  steps.  Next  are  two 
plain  tombs  of  female  attendants,  and 
then  a  handsome  granite  pavilion  with  a 
massive  roof  supported  by  four  pillars  ; 
inside  is  a  black  marble  tomb  to  Mirza 
Riza,  who  married  one  of  Tipu's 
daughters.  At  the  end  of  these  is  the 
largest  building  of  all,  a  domed  mauso- 
leum 20  ft.  sq.  to  the  memory  of 
Bakhshi  Begam,  the  widow  of  Hyder 
'Ali,  1806  A.  D.  Left  of  this  is  a  mosque 
without  any  inscription,  and  beyond  it 
scores  of  plain  gravestones  ana  other 
tombs  of  members  of  Tipu's  family  and 
retinue. 

In  the  third  volume  of  Orme,  at 
p.  603,  will  be  found  a  picture  of  three 
hill-forts  near  Vellore,  and  called  by 
him  SazaroWf  GhizaroWf  and  Murtaz 
Agv/r,  The  one  nearest  to  the  place, 
in  £EU)t  overlooking  it,  is  what  is  called 
Sayers'  Hill,  but  which  the  Hindus 
call  Singal  Drug ;  it  is  900  ft.  above 


376 


ROUTE  29.       MADRAS  TO  BANOALORS  AND  MTSORE 


Mii 


the  level  of  Vellore.  The  ndes  are 
coyered  .with  boulders  and  loose  stones, 
and  the  ascent  is  yery  fatiguing,  but 
may  be  aooomplished  in  forty -fiye 
minutes.  From  the  bastion  there  is  a 
good  view  oyer  the  neighbouring  hill, 
which  also  has  been  fortified.  Just 
below  the  hill  is  the  Fort,  and  two 
fine  tanks,  while  2^  m.  off  are  the 
police  lines  and  the  Central  Jail,  which 


219  m.  BAVOALOBE  City  June,  s^i 
Hence  the  rly.  to  Mysore  is  continoei 
&W.,  whilst  the  line  through  BM 
to  Poona  runs  N.W.,  and  throng 
Guntakal  to  Poona,  K.  The  name  s 
literally,  "the  town  of  bengjln,"  4 
kind  of  bean  (pop.  180, 000).  The  ant 
assigned  to  Government  when  the  stati 
of  Mysore  was  restored  to  the  natm 
prince  is  13^  sq.  m.     The  state  im 


1.  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

2.  St.  John's  Church. 

8.  Native  Infantry  Lines. 
4.  St.  Andrew's  Church. 

is  noted  for  its  beautiful  carpet  and 
cloth  manufactures.] 

132  m.  Jalarpet  junc.  sta.  (R. )  Here 
the  rly.  to  Banealore  leaves  the  main 
S.W.  branch  ana  commences  the  ascent 
to  the  plateau  of  Mysore. 

176  m.  Bowringpet  sta.  [Branch,  by 
the  Kolar  Gold  Fields  State  Railway, 
to  the  gold  mines,  well  worth  a  visit.] 

216  m.  Bangalore  Cajiton.  sta.  3^  (R.) 


BAKiiALCiJEtE, 


6.  Cleveland  Town, 

6.  Maharaja's  Palace. 

7.  Mysore  Gate. 

8.  Museum. 

taken  under  British  administration  ii 
1831,  and  was  restored  to  natiye  rule  in 
1881.  In  the  interval  of  half  a  centmy 
it  has  grown  to  its  present  importance. 

The  Cantonment  (the  largest  in  the 
S.  of  India)  and  City  of  Bangalore 
stretch  from  the  Maharaja's  palace  <» 
the  N.,  6500  yds.,  to  the  S.  extremity 
of  the  Koramangala  Tank  on  the  i, 
and  an  equal  distance  from  the  W.  erf 
of  the  Petta  on  the  TV.,  to  the  Sapperf 


ROUTE  29.       BANOALORB 


377 


Pnctice-ground  on  the  E.     Bangalore 
proper  lies  S.  of  the  Lhannambndhi 
ana  Sampangi  Tanks,  which  lie  in  the 
"S.W.  and  £.  comers  of  the  Petta  or 
town.      Beginning  with  the  canton- 
ment, and  taking  the  noticeable  things 
in  order  from  N.W.  to  S.E.,  the  first 
building   is    the  Mahtvrajds  PcLlaeej 
which  is  handsome,  bnt  only  open  to  the 
public  by  special  permission  when  the 
;Mahanga  is  absent.     S.£.  of  this  850 
^yds.  is  the  Railway  Station,  and  800 
yds.  S.  of  that  again  is  Miller's  Twnk^ 
which  communicates  by  a  small  stream 
rWith  the  mndi  burger  HaUur  Tank, 
1800  yds.  to  the  K    Between  these  two 
tanks  is  the  OanUmment  BazaaTf  and 
N.  of  it  the  pleasant  sabnrb  of  Cleveland 
)  Town,  in  whioh  are  some  neat  residences 
»«nd  Bonum  Catholic  and  Protestant 
Churches,     The  Sappers'  quarters  are 
at  the  E.  comer  of  trie  Bazaar,  and  the 
Sepoys*  Lines  at  the  S.W.,  and  a  little 
to  the  £.  of  the  latter  the  Bowring 
Civil  HospUcU,   the   London   Mission 
Chapel,  and  St.  Andrew's  Kirk,  built 
in  1864.      The   Main  Guard  adjoins 
\  this  church  on  the  £.  ;  and  a  few  yds. 
farther  to  the  K  are  the  Infantiy  Bar- 
i^  racks,  and  still  farther  to  the  £.  the 
'  Tilla^  of  HaUur,  and  a  pleasant  drire 
round  the  large  tank  of  the  same  name, 
with  the  Sappers'  Parade-ground  to 
the  E.     Directly  S.  of  Halsur  are  the 
Artillery  Bairacks,  and  S.  again  of  them 
the  OayaliT  Barracks,  the  old  Ceme- 
tery,  the  Mounted  Parade,   and   the 
Artillery  Practice-ground. 

N.W.  of  the  Artillery  Barracks  is 
Trinity  Chwrch,  which  contains  a  half- 
length  statue  in  white  marble,  by  Mac- 
Dowell,  R.  A.,  to  General  Clement  Hill, 
)vho  served  through  the  Peninsular  cam- 
paigns under  his  brother  Lord  Hill,  and 
when  commanding  the  Mysore  Division 
died  on  the  20th  of  January  1845,  while 
on  a  pleasure  trip  to  the  Falls  of  Gersop- 
pa.  A  few  hundred  yards  W.  of  Trinity 
Church  are  the  Wesleyan  Chapel,  the 
Public  Booths,  and  the  Oymnasiwm, 
standing  in  the  General  Parade- 
ffround,  whioh  is  more  than  1  m.  long 
ETom  K  to  W.  A  little  S.  of  its  centre 
is  the  Telemph  Office,  and  S.E.  of 
that  again  me  Roman  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral,   100  yds.   S.   of   which    is    the 


Museum.  Close  to  the  S.  of  these  are 
the  D.B.  and  All  Saints*  Church, 

Near  the  W.  end  of  the  Grand  Parade- 
ground,  and  adjoining  it  on  the  S.,  are 
the'  Greneral's  House,  the  Bandstand, 
and  SL  Mark's  Church,  in  which  is  a 
tablet  to  Lieut -CoL  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
of  Abbotsford,  and  of  the  15th  King's 
Hussars,  who  died  at  sea  in  1847,  a^ 
46.  W.  of  the  General's  House,  and 
close  to  it,  is  the  Ctibbon  Park,  the 
fashionable  afternoon  resort.  In  this 
is  the  Museum,  In  the  vestibule 
remark  a  slab  with  twelve  Persian  dis- 
tiches, brought  from  Tipu's  Palace  in 
the  Fort ;  a  figure  of  a  Jain  deity  with 
very  superb  carving  round  it,  brought 
from  a  temple ;  also  some  wonderfol 
carvings  jfrom  HuUabid.  In  the  large 
room  adjoining  there  is  a  valuable  o^- 
leotion  of  geological  specimens.  Up- 
stairs are  stufifea  animals,  butterflies, 
and  native  ornaments  and  dresses,  and 
a  most  remarkable  collection  of  fishes. 
W.  of  the  Museum  450  yds.  is  a  fine 
bmlding  525  ft.  long  from  N.E.  to 
S.  W.,  whioh  contains  the  Public  Offices, 
The  Commissioner's  House,  or  the 
Residency  as  it  is  called,  is  about  i 
m,  N.  of  the  Public  Offices,  and  in 
front  of  it  is  a  good  statue  of  General 
Mark  Cubbon,  the  first  Commissioner. 

We  now  oome  to  Bangalore  proper, 
which  has  an  area  of  only  2^  sq.  m. 
out  of  the  18.  The  Petta  was  until 
recent  times  surrounded  by  a  deep 
ditch  and  thorn  hedge.  There  is  an 
excellent  market  between  the  Fort  and 
Mysore  Gates.  The  Brahman  quarter 
is  called  Siddi  Katte.  The  streets  are 
somewhat  narrow  and  irregular,  but 
scattered  about  there  are  well-built 
and  imposing  mansions  belonging  to 
wealthy  inhabitants.  The  grain-market, 
Taragu-petta,a,ndGotton  market,  ^ra2e- 
petta,  afford  busy  scenes  of  traffic. 

The  Fart  is  due  S.  of  the  Petta.  It 
is  2400  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  1800  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  It  could  never  have 
been  a  strong  place  against  European 
troops.  It  is  of  an  oval  shape,  with 
two  ffateways,  one  the  Delhi  Gate  on 
the  N.  face  opposite  the  Petta,  the 
other  the  Mysore  on  the  S.  face.  The 
Delhi  Gate  is  handsomely  built  of  cat 
granite,  and  when  Lord  Comwallis  on 


878 


ROUTB  29.       MADRAS  TO  BANaALORB  AND  MTSORE 


India 


the  2l8t  of  MftToh  1791  determined 
to  storm  the  place,  there  were  five 
powerful  cavaliers  ( Wilks,  Eist,  Sketches 
ofHuS,  of  India,  voL  iii  p.  123), 
a  fausse-braye,  ditch,  and  ooyeredway, 
but  in  no  part  was  there  a  perfect 
flanking  defence.  The  garrison,  how- 
ever, consisted  of  8000  men  under 
Bahadur  Khan,  and  there  were  besides 
2000  regular  infantry  in  the  Petta,  and 
5000  irregular.  In  addition  to  idl, 
Tipu  himself,  with  an  army  yeiy  far 
superior  in  numbers  to  that  of  Com- 
wallis,  was  prepared  to  take  advantage 
of  any  error  on  the  part  of  the  besiegers. 
The  Petta  had  been  previously  taken  by 
the  English  on  the  7th  of  Maidi,  with 
a  loss  on  their  part  of  181  killed  and 
wounded.  The  Mysore  finjrison  lost 
upwards  of  2000  men.  The  assault 
.took  place  at  eleven  at  night,  and 
until  the  Eiladar  fell  a  determined 
resistance  was  made.  Tipu's  camp 
that  night  was  at  Jigni,  6  m.  to  the 
S.W.,  and  at  nifhtfUl  he  moved  up 
within  H  m.  of  the  Fort,  but  the 
spirit  of  the  assailants  overcame  all 
oifficulties,  and  the  Fort  was  captured, 
after  a  severe  struggle,  that  same 
niffht 

In  the  centre  of  the  Fort  is  the 
arsenal,  and  there  are  some  remains  of 
Tipu*  8  Palace,  Some  restoration  has 
been  done  to  the  top  story.  There  is 
a  small  temple  near  the  Mysore  Gate. 

The  Lai  Bagh,  a  most  beautiful 
garden,  is  said  to  have  been  laid  out  in 
the  time  of  Hyder  'AIL  There  is  a 
fine  collection  of  tropical  and  sub- 
tropical plants,  and  a  large  collection 
of  wild  animals  in  cages. 

[Nandidrog,  a  strong  hill-fort  4866  ft 
above  sea-level,  is  86  m.  N  of  Bangalore. 
It  was  thought  impregnable  by  "npu, 
being  inaccessible  except  from  the  W., 
and  there  strongly  fortified.  It  was 
taken,  however,  oy  Qeneral  Meadows 
on  the  19th  October  1791,  with  the 
loss  of  only  thirty  killed  and  wounded, 
chiefly  by  the  tremendous  masses  of 
granite  rolled  down  the  rock  on  the 
Beads  of  the  assailants.  It  was  as  the 
storming-party  formed  that  Meadows 
overheard  a  soldier  whisper  that  there 


was  a  mine.  ** To  be  sure  1 "  said  the 
General,  "there  is  a  mine,  a  mine  of 
gold ! "  The  large  house  on  the  sonmut 
was  a  &vourite  retreat  of  Sir  Mark 
Gubbon  in  the  hot  weather.  Then 
are  many  objects  of  historical  interest 
to  be  seen :  one  being  Tijpu^e  Drop,  a 
rook  projecting  from  the  fortifications 
and  overhanging  a  precipice  of  1000  ft] 

265  m.  Maddur  sta.  (R.)  was  formerly 
an  important  place,  but  suffered  heavily 
duriuff  the  wars  with  Tipo.  There  are 
two  brge  Yishnavite  temples  here, 
sacred  to  Narasim  Swami,  and  Yarada 
Raja,  ''the  Man-Lion,"  and  *Uhe 
boon -giving  King."  A  fine  brick 
bridge  with  seven  arches,  built  in 
1850,  spans  the  Shimsha,  on  the  lurht 
bank  of  which  the  town  is  bnUt.  The 
fort  was  taken  by  the  Mysore  general 
in  1617,  and  Hyder  rebuilt  it,  and 
it  was  dismantled  by  Lord  Oomwallis 
in  1791. 

[Expedition  to  the  Falls  of  the 

Cauvery. 
Bv  road  17  m.  S.  is  Malvalli,  D.E, 
headquarters  of  the  Taluk  of  the  same 
name,  and  a  municipal  town.     The 
Mysore-Bauffldore  ana  Maddur-Sivasa- 
mudram  roa^s  intersect  here.      Hyder 
gave  this  town  to  his  son  Tipu,  and 
the  rice -fields  nea^  the  tank  are  the 
site  of  a  garden  which  Tipn  formed 
On  the   27th   of  March    1799   Tipn 
drew  up  his  army  2  m.  to  tiie  W.  of 
the    fort    and    village    of    MalvallL 
General  Harris  advanced  with  the  right 
or  principal  division  of  his  army  under 
his  immediate  conmiand,  and  the  left 
column  under  General  Wellesley.    The 
unevenness  of  the  around  causing  an 
interval   between  the  brigades,  Tipn 
directed  a  charge  of  cavalry  afiaanat 
them,  ''which  was  prepared  witii  de- 
liberate coolness,  and  executed  with 
great  spirit."    Many  horsemen  fell  on 
the  bayonets  of  the  Europeans,  bnt  no 
disorder  was  caused  in   their  ranks. 
Col.  Wellesley  then  moved  to  torn  the 
enemy's  right,  when  Ti^n's  infantry 
advanced  in  front  of  their  guns,  and 
received  the  fire  of  the  d3d  regiment 
and  the  English  artillery,  until  at  60 
yds.  from  the  Europeans  they  gave  way, 


ROUTE  29,   FALLS  OF  THE  OAUVBRT 


379 


«nd  y^ere  immediately  charged  by  Col. 
Floyd  with  the  bn»ide  of  cavalry, 
which  droye  them  on  the  field  with 
the  .  OSS  ot  more  than  1000  men,  while 
the  En^ish  lost  but  69.  After  the 
action  Tipu  destroyed  Malyalli,  to 
preTont  its  gvins shelter  to  the  English. 
12  m.  S.  W.  of  Malvalliis  the  villase 
of  Soxnnathpur,  fiEunons  for  the  temple 
of  I^rasanna  Channa  Kesava.  This  is 
an  elaborately  carved  building  attri- 
buted to  Jakanaohari,  the  &mou8 
sculptor  and  architect  of  the  Ballala 
kings.  Smaller  than  the  temple  at 
Hufiabid,  this  temi)le  is  more  pleasing, 
as  the  three  pyramidal  towers  or  vim- 
anahs  over  the  triple  shrine  are  com- 
pletely finished.  The  central  shrine  is 
that  of  Prasanna  Channa  Kesava,  that 
on  the  S.  is  sacred  to  €k>pala,  and  that 
on  the  N.  to  Janardhana.  Bound  the 
outer  base  are  carved  with  much  spirit 
the  principal  incidents  in  the  Rama- 
yana,  the  Maha  Bharata,  and  the 
Bhagavad  Gita.  The  end  of  each 
chapter  is  indicated  by  a  closed  door, 
of  each  section  by  a  half-closed  door. 
Around  lie  74  mutUated  statues,  which 
once  stood  on  the  basement.  There  is 
a  fine  inscription  at  the  entrance,  which 
dedares  thattbe  building  was  completed 
in  1270  by  Soma,  a  high  officer  of 
the  Ballala  State,  and  a  member  of 
the  royal  family.  The  vestibule  is  in 
ruins,  and  the  images  are  more  or  less 
damaged.  There  are  also  the  ruins  of 
a  large  Shivite  temple  with  inscriptions. 

From  Malvalli  by  road  12J  m.  to 
The  Falls  of  the  Cauvwy  at  Sivasa- 
mudram.  The  river  has  in  Mysore  an 
average  breadth  of  from  300  to  400  yds. , 
but  from  its  confluence  with  the  Kabbani 
to  Sivasamudram  it  swells  into  a 
much  broader  stream.  The  maximum 
flood  discharge,  roughly  gauged  at 
Bannur,  is  239,000  cubic  ft.  per  second. 
The  bottom  of  the  channel  is  mostly 
composed  of  rocks,  which  increase  the 
eddies  and  foaming  of  the  waters.  A 
few  miles  after  the  stream  has  passed 
the  half -buried  city  of  Talkad,  it  turns 
northward  and  forms  an  island  3  m. 
long  and  about  2  m.  broad,  round 
which  it  sweeps  in  two  broad  streams, 
that  on  the  right  or  E.  passing  within 


the  frontier  of  the  British  district  of 
Coimbatore,  while  that  on  the  left  or 
W.  separates  the  territory  of  Mysore 
from  Coimbatore.  The  island  is  called 
in  Eanarese,  Heggura,  but  is  more 
generally  known  by  its  Sanscrit  name 
Shivasamudram,  'Hhe  sea  of  Shiva." 
The  total  descent  of  the  river  from 
its  point  of  separation  at  the  S.  point 
of  tne  island  to  its  reunion  at  the  N. 
point  is  nearly  300  ft.  The  N.,  or 
more  properly  speaking  the  W.  branch 
of  the  river  is  tne  more  considerable  of 
the  two,  and  forms  a  smaller  island 
called  Ettikur,  on  either  side  of  which 
a  vast  stream  thunders  down.  Buchanan 
tells  us  that  this  island  is  believed  to 
be  inhabited  by  a  devil,  and  adds,  **  the 
only  persons  who  defy  this  devil,  and 
the  tigers,  who  are  said  to  be  very  numer- 
ous, are  two  Mohammedan  hermits  whq 
dwell  at  Gagana  Chukki.  The  hermit- 
age is  a  hut  open  all  round,  placed 
opposite  to  the  tomb  of  Pir  WaH." 
The  main  island  of  Shivasamudram  is 
the  site  of  a  city  which  was  built  in 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  century 
by  Ganfflik  Raja,  a  kinsman  of  the 
Kaja  of  Y^'ayana^.  He  is  said  to 
have  begun  building  before  the  pre- 
scribed auspicious  moment,  and  conse- 
quentlv  his  city  was  doomed  to  last  for 
only  tnree  generations.  His  son  and 
successor  Kandi  Raja  committed  some 
breach  of  ceremonial,  which  he  expiated 
bv  leajging  into  the  cataract  at  Gagana 
Cnukki  on  horseback,  with  his  wife 
seated  behind  him.  Ilie  ruin  foretold 
fell  on  his  son  Ganga  Raja  II.,  one  of 
whose  daughters  married  the  Raja  of 
Eilimale,  a  place  12  m.  from  Satyagala, 
and  the  other  the  Raja  of  Nagarakere, 
3  m.  £.  of  Maddur.  These  ladies 
enraged  their  husbands  by  contrasting 
their  mean  style  of  living  with  the 
ma^iflcence  of  their  father.  The  two 
Rajas  resolved  to  humble  the  pride  of 
their  wives  bv  attacking  their  father's 
city,  which  they  besieg^  ineffectually 
for  twelve  years,  until  his  Dalavay,  or 
commander-in-chief,  betrayed  him,  and 
engaged  him  in  agame  of  chess  while  the 
enemy's  soldiers  were  passing  the  only 
ford.  Roused  at  last  to  his  danger,  the 
Raja  slew  his  women  and  children,  and 
then  rushmg  into  the  battle  ww  sJain, 


380 


ROUTE  29.       MADRAS  TO  BANOALORE  AND  MYSORE 


India 


on  which  his  sons-in-law  and  their 
wives  plunged  into  the  cataract.  Jacat 
Deva,  Kaia  of  Ghennapatnam,  andSnri 
Ranga  Kaja  of  Talkad,  then  sacked 
the  city,  and  removed  its  inhabitants. 
In  1791  Tipn,  on  the  advance  of  Lord 
Comwallis,  swept  the  adjoining  country 
of  people  and  nocks,  and  drove  them 
into  Snivasamudram.  After  this  the 
island  was  deserted,  and  became  over- 
grown with  dense  jungle  infested  with 
wild  beasts.  The  bndges  which  had 
led  to  the  town,  formed  of  huge  blocks 
of  black  stone,  some  placed  upright  as 
pillars,  and  others  laid  across  in  the 
manner  of  EWptian  buildings,  were 
broken  and  duapidated.  However,  in 
1825  a  generous  person  named  Rama- 
Bwami  Mudeliar,  who  was  a  confidential 
servant  of  the  then  Resident  of  Mysore, 
carried  a  fine  double  bridge  across  the 
stream,  repaired  the  tempks,  and  built 
a  D.B.  The  bridge,  or  bridges,  are 
built  of  hewn  stone  pillars,  connected 
by  stone  slabs,  built  on  the  rocky 
bed  of  the  river,  and  though  rude  are 
good  specimens  of  Indian  construction. 
In  the  rains  the  river  is  a  furious 
torrent,  impassable  except  by  the  bridge. 
About  1  m.  distant  from  Gagana 
Chukki,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  is 
the  cataract  formed  by  the  S.  branch 
of  the  Oauvery,  which  is  called  Bar 
Chukki  The  height  from  which  the 
water  descends  is  about  200  ft.,  and 
in  the  rainy  season  an  unbroken  sheet 
of  water  f  in.  broad  falls  over  the 
precipice  to  that  depth  with  stunning 
roar.  In  the  dry  season  the  stream 
separates  into  sometimes  as  many  as 
fourteen  distinct  falls.  In  the  centre 
is  a  deep  recess  shaped  like  a  horse- 
shoe, down  which  the  main  stream 
plunges,  and  then,  being  confined  in  a 
narrow  channel  of  rock,  springs  forward 
with  great  velocity,  and  falls  a  second 
time  about  30  ft.  into  a  capacious 
basin  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice.  Both 
the  N.  and  the  S.  streams  after  form- 
ing these  cataracts  rush  on  through 
mid  and  narrow  gorges,  and,  reuniting 
on  the  N.E.  of  the  island,  flow  forward 
to  the  E.  Tlie  visitor  who  can  select 
his  own  time  will  do  well  to  choose 
the  rainy  season  for  his  visit,  as  well 
on  aooount  of  the  greater  beauty  of  the 


scenery,  as  because  the  island  in  the 
cold  months  is  not  healthy.] 

293  m.  Frenoh  Bocks  sta.  It  is  so 
called  fipom  being  the  place  where  the 
French  soldiers  in  the  service  of  Hyder 
and  Tipu  were  stationed.  The  name 
of  the  ^aoe  is  properly  Hirode ;  pop. 
8000.  The  Fort,  2882  ft.  above  t£e 
sea,  is  3  m.  N.  of  the  rly.  sta. 

296  m.  8ERIN0iLPATAM  sta.  At 
the  W.  end  of  an  island  in  the  Cauvery 
river.  Pop.,  including  the  snburb  of 
Ganjam,  12,000. 

Tne  traveller  who  wishes  to  visit 
this  town  is  advised  to  stop  at  Mysore 
and  drive  over  for  the  day,  bringing 
his  food  with  him.  It  is  not  wise  to 
sleep  in  Seringapatam  as  it  is  a  hot- 
bed of  fever.  There  is  no  I).B.,  but 
the  station  in  the  centre  of  the  fort  is 
a  good  place  to  rest  and  lunch. 

The  town  has  its  name  from  a  temple 
of  Vishnu  Shri  Ranga.  This  temple 
is  of  great  celebrity,  and  of  much 
higher  antiquity  than  the  city,  which 
did  not  rise  to  be  of  importance 
until  the  time  of  the  pnnoes  of 
the  Mysore  dynasty.  As  a  proof  of 
its  great  antiquity,  the  fact  may  be 
cited  that  it  is  called  the  Adi  Sanga, 
or  original  Ranga,  while  the  Islands  of 
Shivasamudram  and  Seringham  at 
Trichinopoly  are  called  respectively 
Madhya  Ranga  and  Antya  Banga, 
"mediaeval  Ranga"  and  '*  modem 
Ran^."  It  is  said  that  Grantama 
Rishi  worshipped  at  this  temple,  which 
is  in  the  Fort.  A  Tamil  memoir  in  the 
M*Kenzie  collection  called  K(mga 
desa  C?iarUra,  commented  on  by  Prof. 
Dowson  {J,M.A.S.  vol.  viii.),  says: 
"On  the  7th  Vaishakha  sudh,  816  A.s.  = 
894  A.D.,  a  person  named  Tiramalayan 
built  a  temple,  and  to  the  W.  of  it 
erected  an  image  of  Vishnu,  which  he 
called  Tirumala  Deva,  upon  some  land 
*  in  the  midst  of  the  Cauvery,  where  in 
former  times  the  Western  Ranganada 
Swami  had  been  worshipped  by 
Gautama  Rishi,*  but  which  was  then 
entirely  overrun  with    jungle.     This 

flace  he  called  Shri  Ranga  Patnam." 
n  1133  Ramanujachari,  the  Yish- 
navite  reformer,  took  refuse  in  Mysore 
from    the   persecution    of  the   Ghok 


BODTE  29.      8XBINGAPATAM 


381 


Baja,  and  conyerted  from  the  Jain 
fkith  Yishnu  Yardhana,  a  fomons  Baja 
of  the  Hoysala  Ballala  dynasty.  The 
royal  convert  gave  him  the  province 
of  Ashtagrama  including  Seringapa- 
tam,  over  which  he  appointed  officers 
called  Prabhurs  and  Hebbars.  In 
1454  the  Hebbar  Timmana  obtained 
from  the  Raja  of  Yijayanagar  the 
government  of  Seringapatam,  with 
jcave  to  build  a  fort  there.  This  he 
did  with  treasure  he  had  found,  and 
he  also  enlarged  Shri  Ranga's  temple 
with  the  materials  obtained  by  de- 
molishing 101  Jain  temples  at  Kalas- 
vadi,  a  town  3  m.  S.  His  descendants 
governed  till  the  Baja  of  Y^ayanagar 
appointed  a  viceroy  with  the  title  of 
Shii-Banga-Bayal.  The  last  of  these 
viceroys  was  Tirumala  Baja,  who  in 
1610  surrendered  his  power  to  Baja 
Wodayar,  the  rising  ruler  of  Mysore ; 
after  which  Seringapatam  became  the 
capital  of  the  Mysore  Bajas,  and  of 
Hyder  and  Tipu,  tiU  the  Fort  was 
stormed  twice,  viz.  in  1792  and  1799, 
by  British  armies.  After  the  4th  of 
May  1799  Mysore  became  the  capital. 

The  Fort. — In  the  western  extremity 
of  an  island  in  the  river  Kaveri  stands 
the  fort,  the  northern  the  longest  face 
'list  a  mile  in  extent.  At  the  other 
end  was  the  Sultan's  palace  in  a  large 
garden  (the  Lai  Bagh)  and  a  large 
"pettah"  named  Shah  Ganjam,  sur- 
rounded by  a  mud  wall ;  between  it 
and  the  fort  stood  another  palace  in 
the  Daulat  Bagh,  and  to  the  south  of 
this  an  extensive  bazaar.  Various 
redoubts  and  batteries  defended  the 
island  towards  the  river.  The  plan  of 
the  Fort  is  an  irregular  pentagon, 
about  1  m.  in  length,  and  ^  m.  in 
breadth.  Buchanan  says  (vol.  i.  p. 
62):  "The  Fort  occupies  the  upper 
(Western)  end  of  the  island,  and  is  an 
immense,  unfinished,  unsightly,  and 
injudicious  mass  of  buUding."  Tipu 
seems  to  have  had  too  high  an  opinion 
of  his  own  skill  to  have  consulted  the 
French  who  were  about  him,  and 
adhered  to  the  old  Indian  style  of 
fortiiieation,  labouring  to  make  the 
place  strong  by  heaping  walls  and 
cavaliers  one  above  anotner.     He  was 


also  very  diligent  in  cutting  ditches 
through  the  granite.  He  retuned  the 
long  straight  walls  and  square  bastions 
of  the  Hindus ;  and  his  glacis  was  in 
many  parts  so  high  and  steep  as  to 
shelter  an  assailant  from  the  fire  of  the 
ramparts. 

Outside  the  fort  on  the  N.  and  S.  of 
the  Eaveri,  a  " bound  hedge"  enclosed 
a  large  space.  That  on  the  north  was 
1  to  li  m.  deep  by  3  m.  long  along 
the  river.  It  was  defended  by  six 
redoubts.  Here  Tipu  had  formed 
his  camp.  His  army  consisted  of 
5000  cavalry  and  40,000  to  50^000 
infantry. 

First  Siege.— On  the  6th  Feb.  1792 
the  British  allied  army  under .  Lord 
Comwallis  numbering  10,000  white 
troops,  27,000  native  troops  with  400 
guns,  assisted  by  45,000  Mahratta  and 
Hyderabad  cavalry,  drew  up  in  position 
about  8  miles  north-west  of  S.,  its 
right  protected  by  the  French  rocks, 
and  its  left  resting  on  a  low  range 
running  north  and  south,  which  ter- 
minates in  the  Earighat  hill  on  the 
river  Eaveri  (easily  distinguishable  by 
pagoda  on  crest  of  spur).  This  brought 
the  army  opposite  Tipu  Sultan's  for- 
tified camp  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river  covering  S. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  Feb. 
orders  were  issued  for  a  night  attack, 
by  infantry  only,  on  the  "bound 
hedge"  position  north  of  the  Eaveri. 
Three  columns  marched  out  of  the 
British  camp,  together  numbering 
9000  men.  Each  colunm  forced  the 
hedge  and  Tipu's  troops  retreated 
hurriedly  into  the  fortress  and  pettah. 
The  British  troops  in  detached  parties 
nearly  succeedea  in  penetrating  with 
the  fugitives  into  the  fort.  Many  of 
the  British  were  drowned  in  fording 
the  Eaveri.  Colonel  Monson  (after- 
wards well  known  for  his  disastrous 
retreat  before  Holkar  in  1805)  crossed 
the  island  to  the  south.  Although 
unsuocessful  in  forcing  the  gate  of  the 
fort,  a  firm  footing  was  gained  in  the 
pettah,  and  the  enemy's  camp  taken. 
These  positions  were  held  by  the 
British,  and  trenches  were  commenced 
to  breach  the  wall  of  the  fort  on  the 


388 


ROUTE  29.      MADRAS  TO  BANGALOBB  AMD  MTSORI         Inik 


north.  The  16th  Feb.  a  force  of  9000 
men  nnder  Qeneral  Abercromby  joined 
from  the  Bombay  Presidency,  raising 
the  total  numbera  of  the  Army  to 
those  shown  above.  24th  Feb.  peace 
preliminaries  were  commenced  by 
which  Tipu  lost  a  large  proportion  of 
his  territory. 

Several  English  prisoners  were  re- 
leased here,  some  had  been  upwards  of 
ten  years  confined  in  chains  by  Tipu 
in  the  island.  They  were  perhaps 
some  of  those  taken  by  the  French 
Captain  Suffrein  when  he  took  500 
British  in  H.M.S.  Hannibal,  When 
Chitaldrooe  fort  not  far  from  Banga- 
lore was  taken,  ''Mr.  Drake,  midship- 
man of  the  Hannibal,  and  three 
private  men  of  H.M.'8  Navy,  escaped 
irom  that  fort ;  they  were  some  of  the 
few  that  remained  of  the  500  prisoners 
of  war  who  were  delivered  over  to 
Hyder  Ali  (Tipu's  father)  by  M. 
Suffrein  in  August  1782."  ilztract 
from  Dirom's  I^rratvoe. 

Second  Siege. — In  spite  of  the 
lesson  tauffht  in  this  first  siege,  Tipu 
determined  to  revenge  himself.  He 
used  the  years  between  1792  and  1799 
in  preparing  his  stronghold  for  defence. 
He  was  warned  by  French  advisers  of 
the  danger  that  the  west  anele  of  the 
Fort  was  in  from  "enfilade"  fire. 
On  our  side  this  weakness  in  the  west 
angle  of  the  fort  was  also  noticed, 
notably  by  Captain  Beatson,  one  of 
**the  Guides"  of  the  Q.  M.  G.  Depart- 
ment. Tipu  secretly  built  an  inner 
moat  and  rampart  in  rear  of  the  weak 
portions  of  his  line  of  defence.  The 
site  of  this  inner  rampart,  pulled  down 
by  us  in  1799,  is  ma&ed  by  tamarind 
trees  still  growing.  In  the  second 
siege  the  principal  line  of  attack  by 
regular  siege  parallels  was  from  the 
south-west  direction,  while  the  most 
western  bastion  of  the  fort  was  cannon- 
aded from  both  sides  of  the  river,  until 
it  was  reduced  to  its  present  state  of 
ruins.  Tipu  was  at  this  time  a 
desperate  man;  his  French  advisers 
ana  auziliai^  troops  had  deserted  him 
in  1792.  He  spent  his  time  mostly  on 
the  ramparts  in  encouraging  his  men 
and  in  devising  new  schemes  of  de- 


fence. A  large  breach  was  ra^  for 
assault  by  May  1799  immedutel} 
south  of  the  west  angle  of  the  Fort 
At  1.80  P.M.  on  that  day  Sir  Dtiid 
Baird  stepped  out  of  the  Ut  pinlldt 
short  distance  from  the  breach  asdkd 
his  stohnen^  across  the  shallow  EaTeii 
river  against  this  breach.  The  ile> 
fenders  were  taken  by  siuprise,  litde 
expecting  an  attack  at  this  axncliiig 
hot  time  of  day.  The  breach  wv 
successfully  mounted,  when  to  tb 
astonishment  of  all  they  found  them* 
selves  in  face  of  a  second  rampart  iniiit 
untouched  and  separated  bom  vbm 
by  a  moat  fiill  of  water  ;  so wellhil 
Tipu  kept  his  secret !  Fortnnately  k 
VLB  one  single  plank  across  the  moat 
—left  by  the  defenders  in  their  hute 
to  withdraw — allowed  the  assadtigg 
party  to  cross  and  penetrate  withii 
the  inner  rampart,  and  within  a  fef 
moments  they  were  cutting  down  the 
guard  of  the  King's  palace.  At  tiiii 
moment  Tipu  was  on  the  north  frait 
of  the  fort  encouraging  the  defew 
against  an  assault  on  an  outwoii 
Hearing  that  the  British  were  in  tk 
fort  he  rushed  back  through  the  arch- 
way— ^popularly  supposed  to  be  when 
he  was  killed,  and  perhaps  because  thi 
arch  makes  a  more  picturesque  hack- 
ground  to  the  well-known  picture  o( 
Baird-— and  met  his  death  within  tiie 
palace  at  the  hands  of  a  British  privsti 
soldier.  Colonel  A.  Wellesley  con- 
manded  the  column  which  assaalted 
the  north  side  of  the  Fort  Tlii» 
officer  was  appointed  military  mam 
of  the  place,  and  after  two  days  w» 
able  to  restore  order  among  the  soldiery 
to  whom  the  town  had  been  given  ow 
to  sack,  their  hate  of  the  tyrant 
lipu  being  greatly  increased  by  the 
torture  to  which  he  had  lately  beeo 
exposing  his  prisonera 

The  best  way  for  the  traveller  to  « 
Seringapatam  is  from  Mysore,  dnTiJg 
thence  by  the  well-shaded  road.  As 
he  approaches  fix)m  the  S.  he  «^ 
see  beyond  the  town  the  hill^  &«" 
which,  on  the  morning  of  the  Whjeli 
1792,  Lord  Oomwallis  and  staff  «• 
connoitred  Tipu's  position  protecting 
S.  A  spur  on  the  extreme  right  w- 
mounted  by  a  pagoda  is  the  KaiigM' 


RO0TB  29.      SBBIKGAFATAM 


383 


hill,  surprised  that  night  by  a  party 
of  the  7l8t  and  72nd  Highlanders, 
who  subsequently  forded  the  river 
under  the  fiery  Baird,  losing  many 
by  drowning.  Below  these  hills  are 
rice  fields  in  much  the  same  state 
now  as  a  century  ago  when  Oomwallis 
and  the  gallant  Meadows  led  their 
columns  on  that  moonlit  night.  Small 
rises  in  the  ground  will  be  noticed  on 
which  were  most  likely  built  Eedgah 
and  Sultan's  redoubt.  Meadows  as- 
saulted the  Eedgah  redoubt  and  took 
it  with  loss  of  11  officers  and  80  men. 
Here  Monsieur  Yigie  and  a  detach- 
ment of  ^Frenchmen  (860)  escaped, 
owing  to  their  "uniform  being  similar 
to  ours."  Meadows,  anxious  at  his 
heavy  loss  in  taking  this  fort,  did  not 
push  on,  but  tried  to  find  Comwallis, 
and  took  no  more  part  in  the  attack 
on  that  night  of  the  6th  Feb.  His 
gallant  nature  could  not  bear  the 
&ilure  of  his  column,  and  he  remem- 
bered a  taunting  remark  of  Oomwallis, 
and  so  brooded  over  the  imaginary 
imputation  of  cowardice,  that,  the  day 
peace  was  declared,  he  shot  himself, 
fortunately  not  fatally.  Meanwhile 
Comwallis's  column,  as  related  before, 
forced  the  centre  of  Tipu's  position, 
took  his  tent,  and  breaking  up  into 
small  parties  in  the  dark,  hurried  across 
the  river,  'Hhe  passage  of  which  was 
difficult  owing  to  the  number  of  fugi- 
tives pressing  into  the  island,"  and  it 
was  by  bad  luck  they  failed  to  get  into 
the  east  gate  of  the  Fort.  One  cannot 
help  admiring  the  dash  of  Uie  British 
soldiers  who  could  achieve  such  a  feat 
as  did  those  on  the  night  of  the  6th 
Feb.  just  a  century  ago.  Approaching 
from  Mysore,  the  traveller,  when  within 
two  miles  of  the  fort  walls,  will  come 
on  the  ground  occupied  bv  Gen. 
Harris's  army  on  the  6th  April  1799. 
On  that  day  the  British  forces  arrived 
from  Madras,  havii^  crossed  the  Kaveri 
at  Sosilla,  below  Seringapatam.  On 
the  extreme  left  of  the  fort  walls  he 
can  see  at  the  north-west  angle  of  the 
fort,  standing  out  in  bold  reHef,  the 
bastion  which  Gen.  Harris  decided  to 
make  his  point  of  assault,  the  breach 
to  be  made  in  the  **  curtain  "  wall  near 
it    Before  he  could  approach  the  walls 


the  enemy's  outposts  had  to  be  driven 
in  about  Sultan  pettah.  Here  Ool. 
Wellesley  and  the  83rd  experienced  a 
slight  reverse  of  fortune.  Looking 
beyond  the  N.W.  bastion,  a  little 
village  can  be  seen  in  a  clump  of  trees 
overlooking  the  river  from  the  north 
bank,  this  is  Agrarium  village,  close 
to  which  the  enfilading  batteries  were 
formed. 

A  picturesque  stone  bridge  over  the 
little  Kaveri  is  now  reached.  This  is 
"Wallace's  Post."  Immediately  be- 
yond this  was  "Skelly's  Post,"  each 
gained  by  hard  fighting.  A  short  way 
before  crossing  a  small  canal  1.  along 
the  canal  bank  and  in  a  luxuriant 
garden  is  Irvine's  grave  in  good  preser- 
vation. This  seems  to  be  the  only 
grave  still  marked  of  the  11  officers 
and  62  men  killed  on  that  night  of  the 
26th  April  1799,  when  the  enemy's 
advanced  trenches  along  the  Eaveri 
were  assaulted.  The  assailants  were 
partly  successful  and  took  shelter  in 
the  small  canal,  at  that  time  dry.  On 
the  right  Ool.  Oampbell  and  parties 
from  the  7l8t  Regt.  and  a  Swiss  Regi- 
ment took  a  redoubt  in  front  of  the 
Periapatam  bridge,  across  which  they 
followed  the  fugitives  as  far  as  the 
entrenched  camp  on  the  island,  and 
after  spiking  some  guns  made  good 
their  retreat  under  a  heavy  fire.  The 
bridge  is  a  short  distance  in  front,  and 
will  be  crossed  to  get  into  the  fort. 
307  killed  and  wounded  this  night. 
"On  the  morning  of  the  27th  April 
Col.  Wallace's  position,"  above  re- 
ferred to,  "was  very  critical.  All  the 
men  that  could  be  spared  from  the 
trenches  were  sent  with  pickaxes,  and 
by  10  A.M.  had  thrown  up  sufficient 
cover  to  secure  the  position  which 
obtained  the  name  of  Wallace's  Post." 
On  the  29th  April  and  1st  May  the 
breaching  batteries  were  completed 
close  up  to  the  walls.  To  this  spot 
the  traveller  should  now  proceed.  It 
is  marked  by  two  guns  sunk  in  the 
ground.      Opposite    he  will    see    the 

Elace  were  tlie  breach  was  made,  now 
uilt  up  by  order  of  the  Maharaja. 
Retiring  from  this  from  the  fort,  he 
will  see  a  small  pasodar  on  high 
ground  a  short  way  from  the  guns. 


384 


ROUTE  29.      MADRAS  TO  BANGALORE  AMD  MYSORE 


India 


Hereabouts  was  the  position  of  a 
battery.  Walking  still  further  from 
the  fort  and  threading  his  way  through 
the  thickly-wooded  country,  he  will 
come  on  a  rocky-bedded  small  river. 
It  is  hard  to  realise  that  here  we  have 
"McDonald's  Post."  The  rippling  of 
water  is  only  heard,  except  for  the 
occasional  splash  made  by  a  bright 
kingfisher  shooting  down  into  the 
stream,  and  in  the  distance  the  slow 
creaking  of  the  labourers'  water-lift. 
**l7th  AprU  1799  CoL  M*Donald  with 
the  2nd  12th  Madras  Infantry  occupied 
the  bank  of  the  little  Kaveri,  whidi 
thence  was  known  by  the  name  of 
McDonald's  Post,  and  was  afterwards 
used  as  a  depot  for  the  engineers'  tools 
and  materials.  Casualties  this  day, 
two  ofScers  killed."  It  is  extremely 
hard  to  trace  the  features  of  the  ground 
owing  to  the  dense  foliage  all  about 
this  quarter. 

"On  the  evening  of  the  8d  of  May 
the  situation  of  the  army  was  ex- 
tremely critical.  There  was  not  at 
this  time  more  than  two  days'  supply 
of  food  in  camp." 

Opposite  the  breaching  battery 
Agrarium  village  can  still  be  seen. 
Returning  along  the  canal,  the  tra- 
veller now  can  proceed  into  the  island 
over  Periapatam  bridge,  and  then, 
turning  to  the  right,  drive  through 
Shah  Ganjam  and  visit  Hyder  AU's 
and  Tipu's  tombs,  the  Daulat  Bagh 
where  Wellesley  lived  three  years,  and 
then  on  into  the  fort.  The  neighbour- 
hood of  S.  is  full  of  interest.  Hyder 
Ali  and  Tipu — the  usurper  and  his 
son  —  cost  us  many  thousand  brave 
soldiers  whose  bones  lie  buried  around 
the  capital  on  every  side. 

In  the  Fort  on  the  N.  side,  and 
between  the  second  and  last  walls,  are 
the  wretched  places  in  which  Colonel 
Baillie  and  other  military  prisoners 
were  confined  from  1780  to  the  peace 
in  1785. 

A  good  view  of  the  city  and  sur- 
roun£ng  country  may  be  obtained  by 
ascending  one  of  the  invMurs  of  the 
Jumma  Musiid,  built  by  Tipu  not 
long  before  hia  death.  The  houses 
in  the  Fort  have  been  for  the  most 


part  demolished,  and  those  that  re- 
main are  greatly  dilapidated.  The 
place  is  notoriously  unhealthy.  The 
spot  where  the  breaching  battery  was 
placed  is  marked  by  two  cannons 
fixed  in  the  ground  opposite  the  W. 
angle,  and  close  to  the  river's  edge, 
and  the  breach  itself  is  visible  a 
short  distance  to  the  right  of  the 
road  to  Mysore.  All  along  this  part 
where  the  stormers  rushed  to  the 
slaughter  there  are  now  trees  with 
luxuriant  foliage,  and  the  graas  grows 
freshly  under  them.  Tipit*s  Palaa 
is  within  the  walls.  The  greater  part 
of  it  has  been  converted  into  a  ware- 
house for  sandal -wood,  and  the  rest 
has  been  demolished.  It  was  a  very 
large  building  surrounded  by  a  mass- 
ive wall  of  stone  and  mnd,  and  was 
of  a  mean  appearance.  The  private 
apartments  of  Tipu  formed  a  square, 
and  the  entrance  was  by  a  strong  and 
narrow  passage,  in  which  four  tigeis 
were  chained.  Within  was  the  haD 
in  which  Tipu  wrote,  and  to  it  few 
except  Mir  Sadik  were  ever  admitted. 
Behind  the  hall  was  the  bedchamber. 
The  door  was  strongly  secared  on  the 
inside,  uid  a  close  iron  crating  de- 
fended the  windows.  Bucmanan  says 
that  Tipu,  lest  any  person  should  fire 
upon  hmi  while  in  bed,  slept  in  a  ham- 
mock suspended  from  the  roof  b^  chains, 
in  such  a  situation  as  to  be  invisible 
from  the  windows.  "  In  the  hammock 
were  found  a  sword  and  a  pair  of  loaded 
pistols."  The  only  other  passage  led 
into  the  women's  apartments,  which 
contained  600  women,  of  whom  80 
were  wives  of  the  Sultan,  and  the  rest 
attendants. 

The  Darya  Danlat  Bagh,  a  summer 
palace  of  Tipu,  just  outside  the  Fort, 
is  distinguished  for*  its  graceful  pro- 
portions and  the  arabesque  work  in 
rich  colours  which  covers  it  Hie  W. 
wall  is  painted  with  the  victory  of 
Hyder  over  Colonel  Baillie  near  Gon- 
jeveram  in  1780.  It  had  been  defaced 
prior  to  the  siege,  but  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  then  Colonel  Arthur  Wel- 
lesley, who  made  this  garden  his 
residence,  had  it  restoreoL  It  was 
afterwards   whitewashed   and   ahnost 


EOUTK  29,       MTSOBB 


9^b 


>'l>literated,  but  Lord  DaIh<Hisie,  liaying 
«risited  the  spot  during  his  tour  in 
Mlyaore,  ordered  it  to  be  repainted  by 
Bb  xiative  artist  who  remembered  the 
cMri^inal.  The  perspctive  is  very  bad, 
BkikcL  the  general  enect  grotesque,  but 
tlie  painter  has  succeeded  in  caricatur- 
ix&^  the  expression  and  attitude  of  the 
Sritifih  soldiers,  and  the  Frenchmen 
very  lifelike. 


The  Lai  B«gh  is  a  garden  on  the 
oilier  side  of  Ganjam,  which  suburb 
ix^^rveues  between  it  and  the  Darya 
J>aulat.     It  contains  the  mausoleum 
<^€  Hyder  and  Tipu,  a  square  building 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  with  minarets 
»t  the  angles,  and  surrounded  by  a 
ooriidor  which  is  supported  by  pillars 
o^  black  hornblende,  a  stone  that  is 
Temark&ble  for  its   beautiful   polish. 
Xhe  double  doors,  inlaid  with  ivory, 
^were  given  by  Lord  Dalhousie.     Each 
of  the  tombs  is  covered  with  a  crimson 
p»Il.     The  whole  is  kept  up  at  Govern- 
ment expense.     The  tablet  on  Tipu's 
tomb  is  in  verse  to  this  effect:   The 
ligbt  of  Islam  and  the  faith  left  the 
■world.     Tipu  became  a  martyr  for  the 
&itb  of  Mohammed.     The  sword  was 
lost  and  the  son  of  Hyder  fell  a  noble 
martyr.      The    inscription    gives   the 
date   1213  a.h.  =  1799  a.d.      In  the 
LaI    Bagh  is  a    simple  memorial  to 
Colonel  Baillie,  who  died  in  1782,  a 
prisoner  of  Tipu.      On   the  way  to 
that  place,  on  slightly  rising  ground 
near  the  road,  are  interesting  memor- 
ials   of   the  officers  emd  men  of  the 
12th  and  74th  Regiments  killed    in 
action  in  1799. 

305  m.  MYSORE  sta.3^  (D.B.  on  N, 
side  of  town),  the  capital  of  the  state 
so  called  (the  pop.  of  Mysore  state  is 
4,869,760),  at  the  N.W.  base  of  Cha- 
mundi  Hill,  an  isolated  peak  rising  to 
3489  ft.  above  the  sea.  Mysore  with  its 
three  suburbs  has  60,000  inhabitants. 
The  town  is  built  in  a  valley  formed  by 
two  ridges  running  N.  ana  S.  There 
is  a  slight  ascent  on  the  N.  side.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  regular,  and  there 
are  many  substantial  houses  two  or 
three  stories  high,  with  terraced  roofs. 
Host  of  the  houses,  however,  are  tiled. 
[India] 


The  town  has  a  neat  and  thriving  loqkt 
and  the  sanitation  has  been  much  at* 
tended  to  by  the  municipality.  In  the 
Fort,  which  occupies  the  S.  quarter, 
the  appearance  of  the  houses  is  less 
promising,  and  the  streets  are  narrow 
and  irregular.  The  Jcdl  is  nearly 
opposite  it  to  the  W.,  and  the  Residti/ncy 
is  J  m.  S.  in  the  E.  part  of  the  town, 
and  another  \  m.  S.  are  SU  BartM: 
mew's  Church  and  the  Wesleycm  Church 
The  summer  Palace  is  about  600  yds, 
E.  of  the  Fort,  while  another  palace  is 
in  the  Fort  itself,  and  a  third  some^ 
what  to  the  W. 

The  Fort  is  quadrangular,  three  of 
the  sides  being  450  yds.  long,  and  the 
fourth  or  S.  side  somewhat  longer. 
There  are  gates  on  the  N.,  S.,  and  W. 
Those  on  the  N.  and  S.  are  protected 
by  outworks :  flanking  towers  com- 
mand the  curtain  at  intervals,.  At 
the  S.K  angle  there  is  a  casemate; 
and  a  parapeted  cavalier  at  the  N.E., 
but  the  defences  are  mean  and  iJlr 
planned.  A  ditch  surrounds  the  Fort, 
and  a  sloping  glacis  covered  with 
houses  abuts  it  on  all  sides  but  the 
E.,  where  the  ditch  is  separated  from 
the  Devaraj  Tank  only  by  the  high- 
road to  Nanjangud.  The  interior  of 
the  Fort  is  crowded  with  houses,  chie^y 
occupied  by  retainers  of  the  palace* 
The  Maharaja's  Palace  within  the 
Fort  faces  due  E.,  and  is  built  in  the 
ultra -Hindu  style.  There  are  a  fow 
paintings  by  a  European.  The  front 
is  taw(£y  and  supported  by  foui*  fan- 
tastically carved  wooden  pillars.  Th« 
Sejje  or  Dasara  hall  is  an  open  gal%y 
where  the  Raja  showed  himself  to  the 
people  seated  on  his  throne  on  great 
occasions.  The  throne  is  very  remark- 
able. According  to  one  account  it 
was  presented  to  the  ambassadors  of 
Chikka  Deva  Raja  in  1699  by  the 
Emperor  Aurangzib  (Wilks,  vol.  i.  p. 
106)  for  their  prince.  The  palace 
legend  at  Mysore  is  that  it  was  found 
buried  at  Penkonda  by  the  founders 
of  the  Vijayanagar  Empire,  Hakka  or 
Harihara  and  Bukka,  who  were  told 
where  it  was  by  one  Vidyaranya,  an 
ascetic.  The  legend  goes  on  to  .say 
that  it  was  the  throne  of  the  P^^i^^ 
'2  0* 


386 


BOUTB  29.      MADRAS  TO  BAHOALORS  AND  MTBOBB 


Mc 


when  the^  reigned  at  Hastinapnra, 
whence  Kampula  Raja  brought  it, 
and  buried  it  at  Penkonda.  It  is 
at  all  events  certain  that  it  was  used 
by  Ohikka  Deva  and  his  successors  up 
to  the  time  of  Tipu  Sultan ;  that  it 
was  found  in  a  lumber-room  when 
Seringapatam  was  taken  by  the  British, 
and  that  it  was  employed  at  the  corona- 
tion of  the  Raja  to  whom  they  con- 
ceded the  goyemment.  It  was  origin- 
ally of  fig -wood  overlaid  with  ivory, 
but  after  the  restoration  of  the  Raja 
the  ivory  was  plated  with  gold  and 
silver  carved  with  Hindu  mythological 
figures.  The  principal  gate  of  the 
palace  opens  into  a  passage  under  the 
Sejje  leading  into  an  open  court.  At 
the  farther  or  W.  side  of  this  court 
is  the  door  leading  to  the  women's 
apartments,  which  occupy  the  W.  part 
of  the  palace.  In  the  N.  side  are  the 
armoury,  library,  and  various  offices. 
The  Amba  Vilasa  is  an  upper  room. 
It  is  hung  with  portraits  of  officers 
connected  with  Mysore.  The  floor  is 
of  dazzling  white  chunam,  and  the 
doors  are  overlaid  with  ivory  or  silver 
richly  carved.  The  sleeping  apart- 
ments, which  are  small,  open  upon 
the  Amba  Vilasa.  The  palace  has 
been  almost  all  built  since  1800,  but 
'  is  already  in  bad  repair.  Tipu  de- 
molished the  old  palace  of  the  Rajas, 
but  left  one  inner  room  with  mud 
walls  of  great  thickness.  This  is 
oalled  the  "Painted  Hall,"  from  the 
coloured  decoration  of  the  ceiling,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  the  State  reception- 
room.  In  front  of  the  palace  there  is 
an  open  space,  but  on  all  other  sides 
it  is  pressed  upon  by  the  huts  of  poor 
people. 

Opposite  to  the  W.  gate  of  the  Fort 
\a  a  handsome  building  called  the 
Mohan  Mahaly  or  "pleasure -palace," 
built  as  a  place  of  amusement  for 
European  omcers.  The  upper  story 
is  adorned  with  pictures  in  the  Indian 
style.  E.  of  the  town  are  the  houses 
of  European  residents.  Here  is  the 
Jtesidencyy  built  by  Colonel  Wilks  at 
the  beginning  of  this  century,  in  the 
Doric  style.  Sir  John  Malcolm  added 
the  back  part,  in  which  is  one  of  the 
largest  rooms  in    S.   India.    As  the 


post  of  Resident  has  been  abolii^ 
this  buildine  is  occupied  by  the  Gois^ 
missioner  of  the  Ashtagram  Diyiston; 
The  District  Civil  Office  was  bdlt 
and  for  some  time  occupied  by  the 
Duke  of  Wellington,  then  CoL  Wei- 
lesley. 

Until  the  beginning  of  the  17& 
oentuiy  the  Mysore  chiefs  paid  tribute 
to  the  Viceroy  of  Seringapatam,  who 
was  an  officer  of  the  Raja  of  Yijay&> 
nagar,  but  in  1610  they  conqnewd 
that  city,  and  thenceforward  becami 
powerful.  Tipu  tried  to  oblitwatB 
all  traces  of  the  Hindu  rule,  and  razed 
the  Fort  of  Mysore  to  the  ground,  usiiig 
the  materials  to  build  another  fort  on 
an  eminence  1  m.  to  the  E.,  which  he 
called  Nazarabad,  some  remains  of 
which  are  still  to  be  seen.  Whei 
Tipu  fell,  the  stones  were  brou^t 
back  and  the  Fort  rebuilt  on  its 
original  site.  Owing  to  the 
of  the  court,  Mysore  grew  as 
patam  decreased.  The  Riy'a 
divested  of  power  in  1831,  owing  In 
the  disturbances  occasioned  by  hi 
misrule,  but  he  continued  to  reside  is 
the  palace  at  Mysore,  and  one-fifth  rf 
the  revenue  was  assigned  to  him.  Tbi 
state  was  handed  over  to  a  Nativt 
Ruler  in  1888. 

Chamnndi,  the  hill  which  overloda 
Mysore,  is  2  m.  S.  E.  of  the  Fort.  It  is 
precipitous  and  rises  to  3489  ft.  aboTt 
sea-level ;  a  fine  road  5i  m.  long  leads 
to  the  top,  on  which  is  a  temple. 
Human  sacrifices  were  ofiered  hen 
until  the  time  of  Hyder  'All  Two- 
thirds  of  the  way  up  is  a  colossal 
figure  of  Nandi,  the  sacred  bull  of 
Shiva,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rook— a 
well-executed  work. 

Nanjaagnd,  12  m.  to  the  S.,  possesses 
a  temple  385  ft.  long  by  160  ft  broad, 
supported  by  147  columns.  It  is  one 
of  tne  most  sacred  in  the  Mysore  dis- 
trict, and  enjoys  a  Grovernment  grant 
of  20,197  rs.  There  is  a  celebrated 
car-festival  here  in  March,  which  lasts 
three  days,  and  is  resorted  to  b; 
thousands. 

Seriagapatam  (p.  380)  is  best  sesr 


BOUTS   30.      THE  8HSVAR0TS  AND   THE   NILQIBIS 


387 


living   from  this  place.     Provisions 
E>r  the  day  should  be  taken. 


ROUTE  30 

Fhe  Shevaroys  and  the  Niloiris, 
coimbatorb  and  ootacamund 

207  m.  from  Madras,  Salem  sta.  (R.), 
)n  the  S.W.  branch  of  the  Madras 
Bly.,  76  m.  S.W.  of  Jalarpet  jnnc. 
The  railway  station  is  at  Suranmn- 
S;a\ain,  4  m.  from  the  town.  Salem 
[pop.  67,800)  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  district  of  the  same  name. 

[The  Shevaroy  HiUa. — Those  who 
desire  to  visit  these  interesting  hills 
Bihould  write  or  telegraph  to  the  Yercaud 
Hotel  for  a  conveyance  to  take  them 
Trom  Saramungalam  to  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  a  distance  of  about  7  m.,  and  for 
bearers  to  take  them  5  m.  up  the  ghat 
to  Yercaud.  The  journey  to  the  foot 
of  the  ghat  is  made  in  a  bullock -coach, 
or  jutka,  and  the  ascent  either  by 
pony  or  in  a  chair  carried  by  **  bearers." 
Yercaud  is  not  a  town,  but  consists 
of  a  number  of  houses  scattered  about. 
There  are  churches,  a  club,  and  post 
and  telegraph  office. 

Only  a  few  small  streams  are  found 
on  the  hills,  some  of  which  dry  up  be- 
tween the  N.E.  monsoon  and  the  return 
of  the  S-W.,  and  at  their  summits  tlie 
hills  are  scantily  clothed  with  vegeta- 
tion. On  their  sides  for  a  third  of  the 
aecent  the  common  trees  and  shrubs  of 


the  plain  are  met  with,  the  next  third 
is  overgrown  with  bamboo,  and  above 
it  grow  short  coarse  herbage,  long  rank 
grass  with  ferns.  The  coffee  tree  grows 
on  these  hills  luxuriantly.  The  plants 
begin  to  bear  in  three  years,  are  in  full 
bearing  at  six  years,  and  last  thirty 
years.  The  streams,  however,  are 
bordered  with  large,  wide -spreading 
trees.  There  is  a  pass  on  the  N.  side 
as  well  as  that  on  the  S.  from  Salem. 

The  climate  of  the  hills  is  peculiarly 
g:ood  for  gardening  operations  and  hor- 
ticulture. A  large  number<of  imported 
trees  and  plants  flourish.  In  an  open 
room  the  thermometer  seldom  falls  be- 
low 65*  F.  or  rises  above  78"  in  the 
hottest  months.] 

243  m.  Erode  junc.  sta.  (R.)  Here 
the  South  Indian  Railway  (metre- 
gauge),  branches  to  the  S.£.  to  Trichi* 
nopoly  (see  p.  400). 

[On  this  branch  at  19  m.  Unjalur 
sta.  is  a  very  pretty  village,  with  fine 
trees  and  a  lon^  cocoa-nut  avenue. 
Close  to  the  station,  in  an  enclosure, 
several  huge  figures  of  horses  and  other 
animals  can  be  seen  from  the  train. 

40  m.  Eamr  sta.  This  was  the 
capital  of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Ghera. 
The  Fort  was  constantly  besieged  both 
in  ancient  times  and  during  our  wars 
with  Tipu.  In  1801  it  was  abandoned 
as  a  military  station.  The  ruins  of 
the  Fort  and  old  temple  are  both  in- 
teresting. 

85  m.  Trichinopoly.] 

302  m.  Podanur  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
Leaving  here  the  S.W.  main  line,  which 
terminates  at  Calicut  on  the  Malabar 
coast,  the  traveller  proceeds  towards 
the  Nilgiri  Hills,  and  reaches  at 

305  m.  Coimbatore  sta.,  1480  ft. 
above  sea-level  (pop.  40,000).  There 
is  a  large  central  jail  1  m.  N.W.  of 
the  rly.  sta.  All  Souls'  Church  is  f 
m.  N.E.  of  the  rly.  sta.,  and  the 
Club  is  near  it.  The  great  sight  of 
Coimbatore  is  (3  m.)  the  Pagoda  of 
Perur.  A  view  of  a  pillar  at  Perur  will 
be  found  at  p.  372  of  Fergnsson's  Hist, 
of  Arch,,  and  also  a  brief  mention  of 


ass. 


soxrrs  30.    tu  bheyabqts  and  thb  kilgibis 


In^ 


it  He  Mji :  "The  date  of  tlie  poroh 
at  Perur  is  aaoertained  within  narrow 
limits  by  the  figure  of  a  Sepoj  loading 
a  musket  being  carved  on  the  base  oi' 
one  of  its  pillars,  and  his  costume  and 
the  shape  of  his  arm  are  exactly  those 
we  find  in  contemporary  pictures  of  the 
wars  of  Aurangzib  or  the  early  Marathas 
in  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century. 
The  bracket  shafts  are  attached  to  the 
piers,  as  in  Tirumal  Nayak's  buildings, 
and  though  the  general  character  of  the 
architecture  is  the  same,  there  is  a 
ooarseness  in  the  details,  and  a  marked 
inferiority  in  the  figure  sculpture,  that 
betray  thedistance  of  date  between  these 
two  examples."  We  have,  however, 
seen  that  at  the  Great  Temple  at  Tan- 
jore,  which  dates  from  the  11th  or  12tli 
oentfiry,  the  figure  of  a  European  with 
a  round  hat  bm  been  introduced,  and 
there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  new 
figures  were  from  time  to  time  intro- 
duced into  the  decorations  of  the 
pagodas  in  the  S.  of  India.  In  front 
of  the  Pagoda,  which  is  a  very  small 
one,  there  is  a  Dwaja  Siambha,  35  ft. 
high.  The  temple  is  sacred  to  Sab- 
hapati,  a  name  of  Shiva,  and  there  is 
a  smaller  one  to  Patteshwar.  They 
were  both  built  in  Tirumal's  time. 
There  is  only  one  gopura  with  five 
stories,  about  55  ft.  hi^h.  In  the 
oonidor  leading  to  the  Yimanah  there 
are  eight  very  richly  carved  pillars  on 
either  side  in  the  front  row,  and  behind 
t)^m  eight  smaller  and  plainer.  From 
the  ceiling  hang  several  chains,  perhaps 
in  imitation  of  the  chains  with  befis 
which  hang  from  the  Dwaja  Stambha 
in  front  of  the  building.  The  pillars 
represent  Shiva  dancing  the  Tandev ; 
Shiva  killing  Gegasur,  the  elephant- 
headed  demon,  appropriate  enough  in 
a  locality  where  wud  elephants  used  to 
do  such  mischief ;  Vira  Bhadra  slaying 
hie  foes ;  and  the  Simha,  or  lion  of  the 
S.  Shiva  is  represented  with  a  huge 
shell  of  a  tortoise  at  his  back,  which 
forms  his  canopy.  There  is  a  hall  of 
72  pillars,  but  the  Brahmans  persist  in 
teckoning  only  60.  There  is  a  small 
ehapel  here  with  the  appearance  of 
lam  worship. 

.  ^27  m.  Met^npiOaiyam  sta.  3^    This 


is  the  present  terminus  for  pasaengn 
proceedincr  to  the  Nilgiris.  Tongas  I 
Coonoor,  Wellington,  and  Ootacamnik 
see  Index  and  Directory  (MettapaU 
yam).  Travellers  leaving  Mettapalit 
yam  after  the  arrival  of  the  mail  tnii 
from  Madras  should  reach  Ootacamoni 
by  2  P.M.  A  narrow-gauge  raQvq 
is  now  being  constructed  from  Met 
tupalaiyam  to  Coonoor. 

From  Mettupalaiyam  there  ii  i 
good  road,  5  m.  long,  crossing  ik 
Bhavani  river  to  Kolar^  where  the  gbil 
ascent  commences.  From  Eokr  ft 
Coonoor  it  is  about  9  m.  by  the  oil 
and  steep  ghat,  and  16  m.  by  tk 
splendid  new  ghat,  up  which  a  caniii 
can  drive.  Ootacamund  is  12  m.  froi 
Coonoor  by  an  easy  metalled  road 
passing  the  military  depdt  of  Wellini 
ton,  8  m.  out  of  Coonoor,  on  the  Jika 
tala  Hill.  There  is  a  bridle-track  fo 
part  of  the  way  which  reduces  tli 
riding  distance  to  10  ul  Kotagiri,i 
small  sanatarium,  is  about  12  m.  froi 
Coonoor.  The  journey  from  Metti 
palaiyam  to  Coonoor  occupies  three  as 
a  half  hours,  and  to  Ootacamund  fif 
and  a  half  hours. 

Coonoor  3^  is  6100  ft.  above  sea-Ievd, 
The  climate  is  about  6°  warmer  ths 
that  of  Ootacamund,  the  mean  annia 
temperature  being  65°,  and  the  raioftll 
55  in. 

In  Coonoor  itself  there  is  not  muck 
to  see,  except  the  Church.  The  asceat 
to  it  is  rather  steep  for  a  carriage. 

Sims's  Park,  a  prettily  laid-ont  pnbGi 
garden,  contains  an  excellent  coUectioi 
of  plants.  One  shady  dell  is  fall  c( 
splendid  tree-ferns  and  others  of  laigi 
size,  and  is  overshadowed  by  large  tms 
of  scarlet  rhododendron.  Below  th« 
park  is  the  Wellington  Hace-course.  A| 
ride  of  4  m.  as  the  crow  flies,  but  of  7  m. 
following  the  windings  of  the  path, 
brings  the  traveller  to  the  Kaihariiu 
Water/all,  which  is  situated  N.E.  of 
Coonoor,  and  not  quite  half-way  to 
Kotagiri.  The  road  leads  for  3  m.  along 
the  skirts  of  pretty  woods,  shoUu  as  tb<T 
are  here  called,  and  then  turning  w 
into  a  narrower  one  not  shaded  by  tree^ 
reaches  (4  m.)  a  rocky  bluff  calkd  Lad$ 


ROUTE  30.      OOTACAMUND 


389 


_^  's  Seat,     Below  to  the  S.  lie 

^  coffee  plantations.     The  path 

aetids  considerably,  and  turns 

*«""Mgh  bluff  with  a  path  all  round 

£king  the  chaain  into  which 

Jm  that  makes  the  Katharine 

J^  ^ends.     The  view  here  is  fine. 

^^~^|tfall  does  not  exceed  300  ft. 

4ipduii«iJ»  t>ut  the  ravine  is  very  deep. 

^t^^  »  affords  a  ^ood  idea  of  about 

"-^^^  S.E.  frontier  of  the  Nilgiris, 

,<flLd  Eotagiri  it  becomes  wilder. 

\ 

^on  to  the  HuUkal  drug,  or 

_^  jk  Fort,  which  is  on  the  summit 

iiTjthat  towers  up  to  the  left  of 

in  ascending   from  Mettu- 

This  expedition  is  one  that 

jthe  whole  day  from  dawn  to 

^d  is  very  fatiguing.    The  road 

IB  off  at  the  first  zigzag  on  the 

^  about  2  m.  from  Coonoor.     A 

He-path  along  the  ridge  leads 

e  best  line  to  follow  tor  part 

fty  is  a  private  road  across  a 

bate,  but  the  owner's  consent 

^i  obtained.     The  peak  is  said 

^85  ft.  high,  and  commands  in 

^ther  a  splendid  view. 

.the  Post  OflSce  at  Coonoor  it 


S5?^, 


8  m.  to  the  Barracks  at  Wel- 


-•^  About  J  m.  before  reach- 

^^^*r.  barracks   a  pretty  fountain 

-^    '^^^^»4B-road  is  reacned.     The  road 

^mZ,^'  Wracks  turns  off  here  sharply. 

^*-i^J!acks,  an  unsightly  pile,  nearly 

^»  *^TOng,  but  believed  to  be  among 

*"^  It  in  India,  lie  at  the  foot  of 

^  tteep   hill,   on  which    is  the 

joint's  house  with  its  pretty 

^^  About  half-way  up  this  hill 

^^^  <^oir.     The  water  is  brought 

.  from  a  spot  in  the  hills  about 

{^•'""tan  the  barracks,  which  were 

^^       in   1860.     The  hospital  was 

I  '■"*  "^-4854.     A  large  piece  of  ground 

the  barracks  is  cultivated  by 

iers,  where  both  flowers  and 

,     AS  are  very  successfully  grown. 

ka  annual  range  of  tne  ther- 

j^is  64**,  of  the  barometer  24*. 

ifall  is  about  70  in. 

\  4ttaund.3^— From  Wellington 
>  i  to  Ootacamund  is  9  m.  The 
'-,-  well  planted  with  troies ;  it 


skirts  a  precipice  of  some  hundred 
feet  in  height,  which  looks  down  on 
patches  of  cultivation.  The  scenery 
is  magnificent.  Ootacamund  is  in  a 
valley  surroimded  by  lofty  hills,  of 
which  Dodabeta  on  the  E.  is  the  highest, 
being  8622  ft.  above  sea-level.  But 
there  are  also  other  high  hills,  as  Elk 
Hill,  8090  ft.  high.  The  Lake  is  IJ  xb. 
long  from  E.  to  W,,  but  narrow.  It  is 
7220  ft.  above  sea-level,  and  the  road 
round  it  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  drives 
in  the  place.  The  principal  Church,  St. 
Stephen's,  is  near  the  Post  Office,  the 
Public  Library,  and  the  principal  shops. 
The  Market  is  close  to  the  E.  end  of 
the  Lake,  and  the  JaQ  is  to  its  W.  on 
the  N.  side.  St.  Thomas's  Church-  is 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Lake  and  close  to 
it  W.  of  the  bridge. 

A  visit  to  the  Chinchona  Fkmtatiam 
of  Dodabeta  will  afford  a  grand  view 
over  Ooty,  to  the  W.,  and  the  valley  of 
the  Moyar  river,  to  l^e  K 

The  Botcmical  Gardens,  established 
in  1840  by  public  subscription,  are 
beautifully  laid  out  in  broad  terraces 
one  above  another  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
which  gradually  rises  till  it  culminates 
in  the  peak  of  Dodabeta,  1206  ft.  above 
the  Gturdens,  and  8622  ft  above  the 
sea.  The  Superintendent's  house  is 
charmingly  situated,  and  has  been  used 
by  the  Governor  before  the  new  Govern- 
ment House  was  erected. 

The  Chinchona  Plantations  are  not 
much  in  point  of  appearance,  as  the 
tree  is  small  (25  ft.)  and  has  but  little 
foliage.  The  species  here  cultivated  is 
the  officiruUis,  and  is  of  three  kinds : 
(1)  the  Condaminea  ;  (2)  the  Bonplan- 
dinia ;  (8)  the  Crispa.      The  system 

Eursued  has  been  that  after  tl^e  tree 
as  grown  eight  years  it  is  barkedi. 
Half  of  the  l^rk  is  taken  off  in  six 
months  during  the  rains,  and  the  other 
half  next  year.  The  tree  then  rests 
one  year,  so  that  each  yield  takes  three 
years.  When  barked  it  is  swathed  in 
moss,  a  system  which  Mr.  M*Ivor,  the 
late  Superintendent,  introduced  from 
Peru.  After  the  tree  has  been  mossed 
it  gives  an  unproved  yield,  as  it  de- 
velops more  bitterand  alkaloid  portiolML 


390 


BOUTE  30.      f  H£  SiiSVABOTS  AND  THE  NtLGlBiS 


Indi 


The  bark  is  out  off  in  parallel  slips,  and 
grows  sgain  after  the  mossing.  The 
Dutch  system,  sinoe  introduced,  consiBts 
of  shaving  off  the  outer  layers  of  bark, 
never  completeljr  stripping  any  portion 
of  the  tree.     This  is  the  crown  bark. 

From  the  top  of  the  ridge  a  most 
sUperbpanorama  is  seen.  Ixwking  to 
the  S.  W.  one  notices  Elk  Hill,  8090  ft 
high,  behind  which,  and  not  visible,  is 
theLawreiuxA8ylum,7^^0ft.  Farther 
to  the  SbW.  is  Chinna  DodahOa,  or 
Little  Dodabeta,  7849  ft.,  and  in  the 
far  W.  Cairn  HiU,  7683  ft.  Ootaca- 
mund  itself  and  its  Lake  and  St.  Ste- 
phen's Church  Hill,  7429  ft  Beyond 
are  still  higher  hills,  as  Snatodan,  8299 
ft,  and  Club  Sill,  8080  ft  The  finest 
view,  however,  is  to  the  K  Here  is 
Orange  Valley,  where  oranges  crow 
wild.  Here  too  is  the  Moyar  v&Lley, 
ignobly  termed  ''the  Mysore  Ditch," 
but  really  profound  and  gloomy  with 
forests  and  the  shadows  of  overhanging 
hills.  Here  also  is  seen  dimly  the Gajal- 
hatti  Pass  and  Kotagiri,  and  mountains 
beyond  almost  unknown  and  inacces- 
sible from  dense  forests  containing 
savage  beasts.  The  visitor  will  observe 
the  two  kinds  of  acacia,  the  melan- 
ozylon  and  dealbata,  and  the  euca- 
lyptus globubis,  or  blue  ffum  tree, 
which  at  its  third  year  sheds  its  blue 
leaves,  and  puts  out  others  of  a  dark 
ffreen.  After  descending  from  the 
heights  he  mav  take  a  path  to  the 
N.K,  previously,  of  course,  having 
ordered  his  carriage  to  meet  him  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  in  that  direction.  The 
whole  expedition  will  take  about  six 
or  seven  hours,  that  is  supposing  that 
the  highest  peak,  Dodabeta  itself,  is 
visited. 

The  Lawrence  Asylv/m.  is  5  m.  from 
the  Post  Office  at  Ootacamund,  and 
is  a  handsome  structure,  with  a  tower 
over  70  ft  high,  situated  in  a  lovely 
valley.  The  dining-room  is  large 
enough  to  accommodate  300  boys.  In 
it .  are  good  portraits  of  Sir  Hope  and 
Lady  Grant  The  boys  learn  among 
other  things  telegraphy,  and  compete 
for  appointments  in  the  Government 
Telen-aph  Department;  others  are 
taught  trades,  and  some  are  enlisted 
in  regiments  stationed  in  India.    The 


visitor  may  return  by  another 
and  will  notice  a  fine  piece  of  wat4 
He  will  remark  also  the  tea-^danl 
tions. 

In  some  of  the  compounds  or  nouiu 
at  Ooty  are  beautiful  shrubs.  BaUck 
Guide  says  that  a  heliotrope  in  M 
Dawson's  carden  attained  10  ft.  i 
height^  ana  30  ft  in  circumfereno 
ana  a  verbena  20  ft.  in  height^  wil 
the  branches  of  a  tree. 

Kaity. — ^There  is  a  pleasant  drive  > 
5  m.  to  the  S.E.  to  Kaity.  A  Goven 
ment  farm  was  establish^  in  the  Kut 
valley  in  1831,  in  the  hope  that  Eur 
pean  produce  might  be  derived  from  i 
This  idea  was  not  realised,  and  til 
Governor  of  Pondicherry  then  inhabit 
the  farmhouse  for  a  time.  After  " 
Lord  Elphinstone  took  a  lease  of  tl 
property  for  99  years.  He  enlarged  ^ 
building,  and  fbrnished  it  magnini  enti 
with  articles  selected  by  Count  d'Ors; 
In  1845  Mr.  Casami^or,  of  the  MaOi^ 
Civil  Service,  bought  the  property  U 
15,000  rs.  and  expended  10,000  rs.  ( 
it.  At  his  death  he  bequeathed  ti 
greater  part  of  his  fortune  to  the  T 
Mission,  which  has  a  church  and 
gregation  here. 


rs.  d 
Kith 
sBoM 
dco^ 


Hurknrti  Peak  is  20  m.  due  W.  of 
Ootacamund,  among  the  grand  moun- 
tains of  the  Eimdas,  where  the  scenery 
is  magnificent.  8  m.  can  be  driven ;  the 
remaining  12  m.  must  be  on  horseback. 
Of  course  the  traveller  must  take  his 
refreshments  with  him,  for  none  are  to 
be  had  in  that  wild  region.  It  will  be 
also  well  to  take  a  rifle.  This  peak  is 
8402  ft  hich,  while  Avalanche  HiD 
is  8502  ft,  Kundah  Peak  8353  ft,  and 
Devibetta  ("Sugar-loaf  Hill")  only  I 
6571  ft.  Another  name  for  the  Mu^ 
kurti  Peak  is  Taiganvxim,  "It  is  t 
spot  held  sacred  by  the  Todas  aa 
the  residence  of  a  personage  whom 
they  believe  to  be  the  keeper  of  the 
gates  of  heaven. "  ^  The  religion  of  this 
singular  tribe,  the  Todas,  has  not  yet 
been  definitely  ascertained.  The  author 
of  this  book  conversed  with  one  of  their 
old  men  in   Eanarese,  and  on  iDte^  I 

1  Smoalt'8  ecL  of  Baiki^t  CMde, 


ttOtJTE  30.       MURKURTI    PEAK 


391 


^gating  him  on  the  subject  of  his 
»ith,  the  old  man  said,  **I  worship 
ihe  Swami,  who  dwells  in  heaven,  but 
[  know  not  His  name."  In  going  to 
ihis  peak  the  traveller  follows  the 
rindmgs  of  the  Pavhk  river  to  its  con- 
luence  with  the  Paikari.  Thence  he 
rill  trace  the  Paikari  to  its  source, 
yhich  is  close  to  the  Murkurti  Peak, 
from  the  source  of  the  Paikari  an  easy 
tscent  of  li  m.  leads  to  the  summit  of 
h»  peak ;  and  there,  should  the  mist 
aid  clouds  fortunately  roll  away,  a 
[land  scene  will  present  itself  to  the 
iew.  The  W.  side  of  the  mountain 
%  a  terrific  and  perfectly  perpendicular 
iwcipice  of  at  least  7000  ft.  The 
Hountain  seems  to  have  been  cut  sheer 
:hrough  the  centre,  leaving  not  the 
lightest  shelve  or  ledge  between  the 
finnacle  on  which  the  traveller  stands 
nd  the  level  of  the  plains  below.  To 
dd  to  the  terror  of  this  sublime  view, 
he  spot  on  which  the  gazer  places  his 
Bet  is  as  cnimbling  as  precipitous,  the 
iround  being  so  insecure  chat  with 
Imost  a  touch  large  masses  can  be 
lurled  down  the  prodigious  height 
Qto  the  barrier  forest  at  the  foot  of 
he  hills,  which  at  such  a  distance 
Doks  like  moss. 

Other  sights  on  the  Nilgiris  are  the 
ToUr/alls  at  U-  Yal-Hatti,  and  those  at 
he  top  of  the  Sigur  Ghat ;  there  is  also 
nother  much  finer  fall,  in  the  heart  of 
be  Eundas,  formed  by  the  Bhawani, 
00  or  500  ft.  high,  with  a  large  body 
f  water,  and  surrounded  by  scenery  of 
lie  most  savage  grandeur,  but  it  is  diffi- 
nlt  of  access.  The  Banga-Swami 
^emple,  and  the  fortress  of  Gagana 
hukki,  may  also  be  visited.  The 
ative  villages  of  the  Todas  (the  ab- 
riginal  hill  tribe)  and  other  tribes 
lay  be  seen  en  rotUe  in  any  of  these 
cpeditions. 

The  Btone-circles,  which  the  Todas 
ill  Phins,  and  which  contain  images, 
rns,  relics,  and  some  very  prettily- 
Tought  gold  ornaments,  are  found  in 
lany  parts  of  the  hills,  but  the  most  con- 
inient  locality  for  a  visit  from  Ootaca- 
land  is  the  hill  of  Karoni,  3  m.  to  the 
'.  The  circles  are  built  of  rough  un- 
flwn  stone,  some  of  them  of  a  large 
ize,  which  must  have  been  brought 


from  a  considerable  distance.  The 
history  of  their  construction  is  quite 
unknown. 

It  remains  to  say  something  of  th^ 
sport  to  be  obtained  on  the  Nilgiris, 
and  of  the  natural  products.  The 
woods  in  general  are  so  ornamentally 
disposed  as  to  remind  one  of  the  parks 
in  a  European  country.  They  are 
easily  beaten,  and  from  the  end  of 
October  to  March  woodcock  are  found 
in  them.  Jungle-fowl  and  spur-fowl 
are  very  numerous.  Partridges  are. 
rare  ;  quails  common  in  the  lower  parts 
of  the  hills.  Snipe  come  in  in  Sep- 
tember, and  are  seldom  found  after 
April.  The  solitary  snipe  {Scolopax 
major)  is  occasionally  shot.  There 
are  blackbirds,  larks,  thtushes,  wood- 
peckers, imperial  pigeons,  blue  wood- 
pigeons,  doves,  and  green  plovers  in 
abundance.  There  is  also  an  immense 
variety  of  hawks,  and  among  them 
a  milk-white  species,  with  a  large 
black  mark  between  the  wings ;  as  also 
a  cream-coloured  species.  Large  black 
eagles  are  occasionally  seen  ;  and  owls 
of  various  sorts,  particularly  an 
immense  horned  kind.  Hares  and 
porcupines  abound,  and  do  much 
damage  to  the  gardens.  Both  are. 
excellent  eating  ;  the  flesh  of  the 
porcupine  resembles  delicate  pork. 
Jungle  sheep  or  muntjak  can  be  found 
in  nearly  all  the  sholas  around  the 
station.  In  the  most  inaccessible  parts 
of  the  Eundas  the  ibex  may  be  found, 
but  are  very  shy  and  difficult  to 
approach.  Among  the  larger  game 
wild  hogs  and  sambar  or  elk  afford 
good  sport.  Pole -cats,  martins,  jackals, 
wild  dogs,  and  panthers  are  numerous. 
So,  too,  is  the  black  bear,  especially  in 
the  early  part  of  the  monsoon,  when 
they  ascend  the  hills  in  pursuit  of  a 
large  brown  beetle,  their  favourite 
food.  Among  the  tall  grass,  which  is 
often  as  high  as  a  man's  head,  and  in 
the  thicker  and  larger  sholas  the  royal 
tiger  is  not  unfrequently  met  with. 


AM 


&OUTE  31.      lt}k*t)RAS  TO  TINNEV2LLT 


/n& 


ROUTE  31 

Madbas  to  Conjeveram,  Madura, 
and  tinnevelly  by  the  sodth 
Indian  Railway,  483  miles. 

Madras  is  described  p.  336. 

34  m.  Chingleput  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
A .  line  of  39  m.  runs  to  Arkonam 
jtttic.  Sta.  (R.)  on  the  Madras  Rly. 
p.  335. 

The  Fort  here,  through  part  of  which 
the  railway  passes,  contains  the  Public 
Offices  and  Reformatory  School,  and  was 
erected  by  the  Rajas  of  Vijayanagar 
at  the  end  of  the  16th  century.  It 
played  an  important  part  during  the 
contest  between  the  English  and 
French,  and  was  once  bombarded  by 
dive ;  it  was  afterwards  a  place  of 
confinement  for  French  pnsoners ; 
and  during  the  siege  of  Madras  by 
Lally  it  was  of  enormous  use  by  en- 
abling the  garrison  to  annoy  the 
French  rear,  and  intercept  their  com- 
mnnications.  This  town  is  the  centre 
of  the  Tamil  Missions  of  the  Free 
Church  of  Scotland.  The  Medical 
Mission  is  at  Walajabad  near  Con- 
jeveram. 

[On  the  branch  between  Chingleput 
and  Arkonam  is  Conjeyeram  sta. 
{Kanchipuram^  the  Golden  City),  60  m. 
from  Madras  by  Arkonam,  56  m.  by 
Cliingleput.  The  Benares  of  Southern 
Hindustan,  one  of  the  7  sacred  cities 
(40, 000  inhab. )  The  great  festival  here 
is  in  May.  The  Temple^  about  2  m.  from 
the  rly.  sta.,  is  dedicated  to  Ekambarah 
Swami,  which  may  mean  the  Deity 
with  the  single  garment.  Just  before 
reaching  the  great  temple  there  is  a 
mosque,  which  was  formerly  a  Hindu 
temple.     The  Great  Gopura  is  on  the 


S.    side  of  the  outer  enclosure,  $d 
has  ten  stories,  and  an  enormous  td 
without  any  window  or  means  of  ascj 
The  topmost  five  stories  have  been  td, 
paired  and  somewhat    altered.     TU 
total  height  is  188  ft.     In  the 
from  the  top  are  seen  2  open  pa^ 
consisting  of  a  stone  roof  on  16 
pillars,   18  ft.    high,   carved  in 
relievo.     The  chief  part  of  the  toi 
which  is  full  of  fine  trees,  and  has  t 
broad   streets,  with  low  houses  and 
good  many   smaller  j^agodas,  is 
visible,  as  is  the  railway  to  Arki 
2i  m.  S.  is  seen  the  Palar  river, 
is  seen  the  Vishnava  temple  at  lil 
Conjeveram.      E.,     and     outside 
enclosure,   is  a  magnificently 
wooden  car,  very  high,  with 
wooden  wheels.     Passing  throagh  tkij 
Great  Gopura  an  open  space  is  en 
and  at  60  yds.  to  the  left  is  the 
of  1000  Pillars.     This  hall  stands 
the  W.  of  the  Great  Gopura,  and  ati 
N.  end  has  another  fine  gopara,  noti 
high  as  the  first     In  this  hall  ars  1 
rows  of  27  pillars  each,  making  ill 
gether  540,  instead  of  1000.    Mosti 
the  pillars  have  alto-relievo  caryinl 
but  some  are  plain.     In  the  centre  ( 
the  hall  the  pillars  have  been  doii 
with  wattle,  so  as  to  form  a  chamlMI 
in  which  various  figures  of  monsM 
are  kept,  which  are  carried  in  jMoal 
sion  on  high  days.     Only  caste  Hid 
are  permitted  to  enter    the  adyta 
where  a  lamp  is  kept  bnnun?.    Tbi 
are  four  rows  of  ornate  pillars  wi 
capitals  of  masonry  before  the  vimam 
and  between  it  and  the  base  of  a 
gopura  it  is  usual  to  bring  out  iVenrf 
girls  to  exhibit  their  performances 
visitors.     Between   the   vimanah  u 
the    Great    Gopura    is    a   veiy 
temple  with  a  long  inscription  on  i 
outer   wall  in   Granthi.     In  this,  t! 
Ekambarah  Temple,    there   are  tbi 
gopuras. 

The  Fishnu  Temple  in  Little  i 
jeveram  is  about  2  m.  off.  Viahnol 
worshipped  here  under  the  name  i 
Varada  Rajah,  "boon-giving  kiD| 
The  entrance  is  under  a  gopura,  wbl 
has  seven  stories,  and  is  aboat  lOOj 
high.  On  both  sides  of  the  gat< 
are  Sanscrit  inscriptions  in  the  Tii 


ROUTE  31.       GINGI   i 


393 


^aracter,  called  Oranthi.  There  are 
jreat  numbers  of  NauM,  girls.  After 
jweing  through  the  gopura,  you  have 
m  your  left  a  hall  of  pillarSy  which  is 
»he  building  best  worth  seeing  in 
I)onjeyeram.  The  pillars  are  carved  in 
Host  marvellous  fashion,  the  bases 
3^resenting  riders  on  horses  and  on 
lippogriifs.  At  the  S.E.  comer  is  a 
remarKable  carving  of  a  chain  with 
sight  links,  Uke  a  cable,  terminating 
in  the  many  heads  of  the  Shesh  Nag  at 
me  £nd,  and  at  the.  other  in  a  sort  of 
aul.  Visitors  are  not  allowed  to  enter 
tills  hall.  N.  of  the  hall  is  a  Teppa 
Kulam  and  a  small  mandapam,  with  a 
louble  row  of  pillars.  E.  of  the  Eulam, 
>r  tank,  is  a  small  temple  dedicated  to 
^e  Chakrah,  or  discus,  of  Vishnu. 

Here,  at  the  request  of  a  visitor,  the 
jewels  will  be  shown.     Ornaments  for 
die  head,  of  which  there  are  at  least  five, 
ire  called  Konda  and  Kiraten^  and  are 
ike  two  basins,  one  placed  on  the  other 
»versed,  of  gold,  and  studded  with 
rabies,  diamonds,  and  emeralds,  worth 
5fom  6000  to  10, 000  rs.  each.    Nagasena 
m  a  fillet  1^  in.  broad,  studded  with 
^ms,   used  to   bind  the  hair  of  the 
zoddess    Vishnu's    consort.       Kcmtha 
adra  are  necklaces  of  various  kinds,  of 
pearls,  rubies,  and  emeralds.     Ture  are 
ugrettes  of  rubies.     Gold  chains  are 
K)0   numerous   to   mention,   and    are 
¥orth  from  800  to  1000  rs.      Observe 
ilso  a  Makkara  Kantha,  a  sort  of  neck- 
ace,  worth  7000  rs.,  given  by  an  Achari. 
Observe  too  the  padarnSy  gold  casings 
!br  the  feet  of  idols,   studded   with 
«wels,  and  a  Makkara  Kardha,  a  neck- 
aee  with  pendants,  worth  86O0  rs. ,  said 
X)  have  been  given  by  Lord  Olive,  and  a 
Pada  Kure,  an  ornament  for  the  neck, 
md  Nei  Koth,  frontlets.     On  the  wall 
■»f  the  enclosure  are  numerous  Tamil 
ords  and  letters,  said  to  be  builders' 
ii;ks.     On  the  W.  and  E.  side  of  the 
Qtof  the  inner  enclosure,  about  the 
)^6,   is  a  mark  something  Uke  a 
lettioe,  which  is  said  to  be  the  first 
sectsVishnu.     Ever  since  1789  two 
the  fo.  been  fighting  fiercely  about 
tiie  shthis  symbol.    The  keepers  of 
a  plftiii  xy  it  should  be  made  with 
On  thv 

back  from  the  temple 


one  may  visit  the  MaJcbarak,  or  tomb 
of  Hamid  -f  uliya,  who  was  the  ministei* 
of  a  king  ofi^ijapur,  and  subsequently 
canonised.  '-She  building  has  a  small 
dome,  and^l^nds  100  yds.  back  from 
the  road  in  ft  garden. 

A  few  m«  N.W.  of  Conjeveram 
Baillie's  Drjfeion  was  cut  to  pieces  by 
Hyder  'AH,  and  Sir  Hector  Munro 
threw  his  guns  and  baggage  into  the 
Temple  Tank  on  his  retreat  to  Chingle- 
put.] 

75  m.  Tindiyanam  sta.  (R.),  B.B. 

[18  m.  W.  of  this  station  by  road  is 
G-ingi  {Chevji\  considered  the  most 
famous  fort  in  the  Camatic.  The 
interest  of  the  place  is  exclusively  his- 
torical. The  fortress  consists  of  three 
strongly-fortified  hills  connected  hj  long 
walls  of  circumvallation.  The  highest 
and  most  important  hill  is  called 
Rajaciri,  about  500  or  600  ft.  high, 
which  consists  of  a  ridge  terminating 
in  an  overhanging  bluff,  facing  the  S., 
and  falling  with  a  precipitous  sweep  to 
the  plain  on  the  N.  On  the  summit 
of  this  bluff  stands  the  citadel.  On  the 
S.W.,  where  the  crest  of  the  ridge 
meets  the  base  of  the  bluff,  a  narrow 
and  steep  ravine  probably  gave  a  difd- 
oult  means  of  access  to  the  top,  across 
which  the  Hindu  engineer  built  three 
walls,  each  about  20  or  25  ft.  high, 
rising  one  behind  the  other  at  some 
little  distance,  and  rendering  an  attack 
by  escalade  in  that  direction  almost 
impracticable.  On  the  N.  side  a  narrow 
chasm  divides  a  portion  of  the  rock 
from  the  main  mass.  This  chasm  the 
fortifiers  of  the  rock  artificially  pro- 
longed and  deepened ;  and  where  it 
had  a  width  of  about  24  ft.,  and  a 
depth  of  about  60  ft.,  they  threw  a 
wooden  bridge  over  it,  and  made  the 
only  means  of  ingress  into  the  citadel 
through  a  narrow  stone  gateway  facing 
the  bridge. 

Several  ruins  of  fine  buildings  are 
situated  inside  the  fort.  Of  these  the 
most  remarkable  are  the  two  pagodas, 
the  Kaliyana  Mahal,  the  Gymkhana, 
the  Granaries,  and  the  'Idgah.  The 
Kaliyana  Mahal  consists  of  a  square 
court  surrounded  by  rooms  for  the 
ladies  of  the  Governor's  household.     In 


3d4 


fiOUTE  dl.       MADRAS  tO  TIMNtiVKLLt 


tv6 


the  middle  is  a  sQuare  tower  of  eight 
stones,  with  a  pyramidical  roof. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  are 
— the  great  gun  on  the  top  of  Rajagiri, 
which  has  the  figures  7560  stamped  on 
it ;  tlie  Raja's  bathing-stone,  a  large 
smooth  slab  of  granite.  The  prisoners' 
wdl  i&  a  very  singular  boulder,  abont  15 
to  20  ft.  high,  poised  on  a  rock  near  the 
Chakrakulam,  and  surmounted  by  a 
low  circular  brick  wall.  It  has  a 
natural  hollow  passing  through  it  like 
a  well. 

Gingi  was  a  stronghold  of  the  Vijay- 
anagar  power,  which  was  at  the  height 
of  its  prosperity  towards  the  close  of  the 
16th  century,  and  was  finally  over- 
thrown by  the  aUied  Mohammedan 
kings  of  the  Deccan  in  15^4  at  Talikot. 
In  1677  the  fort  fell  to  Shivaji  by 
stratagem,  and  remained  in  Maratha 
hands  for  twenty-one  years.  In  1690 
the  armies  of  the  Delhi  emperor,  under 
Zulfikar  Khan,  were  despatched  against 
Gingi  with  a  view  to  the  final  extirpa- 
tion of  the  Maratha  power :  the  fort 
ultimately  fell  in  1698,  and  became  the 
headquarters  of  the  standing  army  in 
Arcot  In  1750  the  French  under  M. 
Bussy  captured  it  by  a  skilful  and  dar- 
ingly executed  night-surprise,  and  held 
it  with  an  efficient  garrison  for  eleven 
years,  defeating  one  attack  by  the 
English  in  1752.] 

98  m.  Villiipiiram  junc  sta.  (R.) 
D.B. 

[Branch  N.W.  to  Vellore  (Rte.  29), 
Tirupati  (Rte.  24),  and  E.'  24  m.  to 

Pondicherry  sta.  if.  (141, 000  inhab.), 
capital  of  the  French  possessions  in 
India,  which  have  an  extent  of  175 
sq.  m.,  and  a  pop.  of  280,385.  The 
town,  founded,  1674  by  Fran9ois  Mar- 
tin, is  divided  by  a  canal  into  White 
and  Black  Towns, — the  White  Town 
next  the  sea.  The  Government  HousCy  a 
handsome  building,  is  situated  at  the 
N.  side  of  the  Place,  within  300  yds.  of 
the  sea.  The  means  of  locomotion  here 
is  a  poiatse-pousse,  which  is  like  a  bath- 
chair  pushed  by  one  or  two  men,  and 
glides  along  at  a  great  rate  over  the 
level  streets.  The  Cathedral^  built 
1855,  is  called  JS^otre  Dame  des  Anges. 
The  Pier  is  150  metres  long.     At  its 


entrance,  ranged  in  a  semidrde, 
eight  pillars,  38  ft.  high,  of  a  gnn 
blue  stone,  brought  from  Gingi,  wfiij 
is  40  m.  distant  as  the  crow  flies.  H 
French  assert  that  these  and  othfl 
were .  given  to  M.  Dupleix  by  til 
Governor  of  Gingi.  On  the  third  pilli 
on  the  left  side,  looking  towards  the 
is  an  astronomical  plan  by  some 
tronomers  who  were  directed  to  fix  tb 
exact  longitude  of  Pondicherry.  Oii 
the  next  pillar  is  inscribed  "PImi 
de  la  Republique."  60  yds.  W.  of 
the  W.  end  of  the  pier  is  tne  statu  ^ 
DupleiXy  on  a  pedestal  formed  of  o« 
fragments  of  temples  brought  bm 
Gingi.  At  a  distance  this  peaestal  inf 
anything  but  a  graceful  appearano^ 
and  seems  formed  of  logs  of  wood.  Oi 
the  ledge  is  the  date  1742-54.  Fov 
more  p^ars  grace  this  end  of  the  Plaa. 
The  band  plays  here  twice  a  week,  ui 
there  are  seats  and  a  promenade.  H 
the  S.  end  of  the  promenade  is  ^ 
Jffdtel  de  VilUj  a  neat  building,  and  & 
of  this  on  the  beach  is  a  battery  of 
eight  small  guns.  There  is  also  a  Li^ 
hSuse,  which  shows  a  light  89  ft.  abow 
the  sea.  The  High  Cowrt  {La  Covr 
d^Appel)  is  a  handsome  square  building. 
A  canal  separates  the  European  from 
the  Native  Town.  Crossing  this  canal, 
and  turning  to  the  N.,  you  pass  a  large 
hospUaZj  built  at  the  expense  of  the 
Comte  de  Richemont.  N.  of  this  is 
the  Missionaries'  Church,  which  i* 
called  La  CaihMrale  de  la  Ville  Noire. 
N.  of  this  again  is  a  school  with  450 
pupils,  on  the  facade  of  which  is  in- 
scnbed,  "  College  Calv^  Sgupraya  Chet- 
tiyar,"  after  the  founder.  It  is  a  fine 
white  building.  The  Prison  OitU- 
rale,  in  which  are  generally  about  830 

Erisoners,  is  opposite  to  the  clock-tower, 
uilt  at  the  expense  of  a  native  resi- 
dent. Here  is  another  pillar  from  Gingi 
making  thirteen  in  all.  A  boulevar 
begins  here  which  goes  round  the  tow 
Continuing  the  drive  and  taming 
the  S.E.,  one  may  visit  the  coj 
spinning  factory,  or  Filaiwref  re 
Savanah,  and  founded  in  1826«00 
is  an  artesian  well  which  giear 
litres  a  minute  of  beautifralso 
water.  The  public  garden 
worth  a  visit 


llOtTE  31.       PONDtCHfiRRY — CtJDDALORB 


The  places  under  the  authority  of 
Pondicherry  are  Karikal,  south  of  Tran- 
c^aebar ;  Yanan,  and  the  lodge  of  Masu- 
lipatam ;  Mah^  and  the  lodge  of  Caliout 
on  the  Malabar  coast ;  and  Chanda- 
nagar,  in  Bengal,  on  the  Hooghly. 
Pondichem'  itself  has  an  area  of  115 
so.  m.  The  Qoyemor  receives  1600 
ral  a  month,  the  Attorney  -  General 
200  rs.,  and  the  four  senior  judges 
400  rs. 

History. 

In  1672  Pondicherry,  then  a  small  vil- 
lage, was  purchased  by  the  French  from 
the  king  of  Vijayanagar,  seventy-one 
years  after  the  first  arrival  of  French 
ships  in  India.  In  1693  the  Dutch  took 
Pondicherry,  but  restored  it,  with  the 
fortifications  greatly  improved,  in  1697, 
at  the  peace  of  Ryswick.  On  the  26th 
of  August  1748  Admiral  Boscawen  laid 
siege  to  it  with  an  army  of  6000  men, 
bat  was  compelled  to  raise  the  siege  on 
the  6th  of  October,  with  the  loss  of 
1065  Europeans.  M.  Dupleix  was  the 
Governor,  and  had  under  him  a  garri- 
son of  1800  Europeans  and  2000  Sepoys. 
On  the  29th  of  April  1768  M.  Lally 
landed  at  Pondicheny,  and  commenced 
a  vigorous  war,  which  ended  ruinously 
for  the  French. 

In  the  beginning  of  July  1760  Col. 
Coote,  with  2000  Europeans,  and  6000 
natives,  began  to  blockade  Pondicherry. 
On  the  9th  of  September  the  EngUsh 
arm^,  having  received  reinforcements, 
earned  the  bound-hedce,  and  two  of 
the  four  redoubts  whicn  defended  it. 
On  the  27th  of  November  M.  Lally, 
finding  the  garrison  hard  pressed  py 
famine,  expelled  all  the  native  inhabit- 
ants from  the  town,  1400  in  number. 
These  being  driven  back  by  the  English, 
attempted  to  re-enter  the  fort,  but  were 
fired  on  by  the  French,  and  some  of 
them  killed.  For  eight  days  these 
unfortunates  wanderea  between  the 
lines  of  the  two  hostile  armies,  subsist- 
ing on  the  food  which  they  had  about 
them  and  the  roots  of  grass.  At  last, 
finding  Lally  inexorable,  the  English 
suffered  them  to  pass.  The  hopes  of 
deliverance  in  the  minds  of  the  French 
were  soon  dispelled  by  the  arrival 
of  fresh  men-oi-war  from  Ceylon  and 


Madras,  so  that  the  blockading  fleet 
was  again  raised  to  eleven  sail  of  the 
line.  On  16th  Dec.  1760  the  town 
surrendered,  as  the  carrison  was  reduced 
to  1100  men  of  the  line  fit  for  duty,  and 
these  enfeebled  by  famine  and  fatigue, 
with  but  two  days'  provisions  left. 
In  1763  Pondicherry  was  restored  to 
the  French.  On  9th  Aug.  1778  Sir 
Hector  Munro,  with  an  army  of  10,600 
men,  of  whom  1500  were  Europeans 
again  laid  sie^  to  it  On  the  10th  Sir 
E.  Yemon,  with  four  ships,  fought  an 
indecisive  battle  in  the  roads  with  five 
French  ships  under  M.  Trongolloy> 
who,  some  days  after,  sailed  off  at 
night,  and  left  the  town  to  its  fate. 
Pondicherry,  after  an  obstinate  defence, 
was  surrenaered  in  the  middle  of  Octo- 
ber by  M.  Bellecombe,  the  Governor, 
and  shortly  after  the  fortifications  were 
destroyed.  In  1783  it  was  re-trans- 
ferred to  the  French,  and  on  the  23d 
of  August  1798  retaken  by  the  British. 
The  Treaty  of  Amiens,  1802,  restored  it 
to  its  original  masters,  whereupon  Bona- 
parte sent  thither  General  de  Caen,  with 
seven  other  generals,  1400  regulars,  a 
bodyguard  of  eighty  horse,  and  £100,000 
in  specie,  with  a  view,  doubtless,  to  ex- 
tensive operations  in  India.  His  in- 
tentions, however,  whatever  they  may 
have  been,  were  defeated  by  tne  re- 
occupation  of  Pondicherry  in  1803. 
The  place  was  then  attached  to  S. 
Arcot,  and  pelded  a  yearly  revenue  of 
45,000  rs.  In  1817  it  was  restored  to 
the  French,  and  has  remained  ever 
since  under  their  rule.] 

125  m.  Cuddalore  New  Town  sta. 

127  m.  Cuddalore  Old  Town  sta.  (R. ) 
From  the  former  station,  Fort  St.  David 
can  most  conveniently  bo  visited,  and 
it  is  nearest  to  the  public  offices  in  the 
civil  station,  and  the  D.B.  At  the  Old 
Town  station  are  the  railway  work- 
shops, and  the  residences  of  a  consider- 
able number  of  Europeans,  also  the 
church  and  jail.  An  English  manu- 
script, *  *  The  Cuddalore  Obituary, "  kept 
in  the  church  here  is  worth  seeing. 
The  Jail  is  a  new  building.  The 
Church  is  at  Old  Town,  and  is  interest- 
ing on  account  of  the  old  tombs  in  and 


396 


ROOTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNEVELLT 


h 


about  it  •  A  small  ohurch  has  recently 
been  built  in  the  New  Town. 

Fort  St.  Darld  is  interesting  only 
on  account  of  its  history.  From  1691, 
when  it  was  purchased  by  the  E.  I.  Co. , 
it  remained  m  the  hands  of  the  British 
until  1758,  when  it  was  besieged  and 
taken,  after  many  unsuccessful  attempts, 
by  the  French,  only  to  fall  back  into 
British  hands  at  the  peace  of  1783. 
All  that  now  reniains  of  the  fort  are 
the  ditch,  almost  filled  up,  the  founda- 
tions of  the  once  strong  ramparts,  and 
some  masses  of  the  fallen  walls. 


rin^pet 


144  m.  Porto  Novo  sta.  The  town 
stands  on  the  K.  bank  of  the  liver 
Velar,  dose  to  the  sea,  and  is  called  hj 
the  natives,  Mahmud  Bandar  and  Fi- 
The  Portuguese  settled  here 
at  of  the  16th  century, 
the  first  l^uropeans  who  landed 
on  the  Coromandel  coast  (see  Man-aal 
of  S.  Arcot,  hj  J.  H.  Garstin,  C.S.) 
In  1678  the  JDutoh  abandoned  their 
factory  at  Porto  Koto  and  Devapat- 
nam,  and  went  to  Piilicat 

The  chief  historical  recollection  which 
attaches  to  Porto  Novo  is  that,  with- 
in 3  m.  of  it  to  the  N.,  dose  to  the 
sea-shore,  was  fought  one  of  the  most 
important  Indian  battles  of  the  last 
century.  Sir  Eyre  Coote  had  arrived 
at  Porto  Novo  on  the  19th  of  June 
1781,  after  having  been  repulsed  the 
day  before  in  an  attack  on  the  fortified 
Pagoda  of  Chidambaram,  which  he  con- 
ducted in  person.  Hyder  'Ali  was 
encouraged  by  the  success  of  his  troops 
on  that  occasion  to  hazard  a  battle, 
and  he  took  up  and  fortified  an  advan- 
tageous position  on  the  only  road  by 
which  the  English  could  advance  to 
Cuddalore.  An  account  of  the  battle 
which  ensued  will  be  found  in  Mill, 
vol.  iv.  pp.  209-212.  A  victory  was 
obtained,  of  which  Sir  J.  Malcolm 
speaks  in  the  following  terms  :  **  If  a 
moment  was  to  be  named  when  the 
existence  of  the  British  power  depended 
upon  its  native  troops,  we  should  fix 
upon  the  battle  of  Porto  Novo.  Driven 
to  the  sea-shore,  attacked  by  an  enemy 
exulting  in  recent  success,  confident  in 
his  numbers,  and  strong  in  the  terror 


of  his  name,  every  droumstanoe « 
bined  that  could  dishearten  the  n 
body  of  men  on  whom  the  fate  of 
vrar  depended.  Not  a  heart  shrank  fi 
the  trial  Of  the  European  battili 
it  is,  of  course,  superfluous  to  spe 
but  all  the  native  battalions  app 
from  every  account  of  the  action 
have  been  entitled  to  equal  pruss 
this  memorable  occasion,  and  it  is  d 
cult  to  say  whether  they  were  e 
distinguished  when  suffering  witi 
patient  courage  under  a  heavy  cam 
ade,  when  receiving  and  repuMng 
shock  of  the  flower  of  Hyder's  cavi] 
or  when  attacking  in  their  tarn 
troops  of  that  monarch,  who,  baffled 
all  his  efforts,  retreated  from  this  fi 
of  anticipated  conquest  with  the 
of  his  most  celebrated  commander, 
thousands  of  his  bravest  soldiers." 

151  m.  Chidambaram  sta.,  D.K 
m.  from  sta.     Pop.  20,000. 

The  Pagodas  at  Chidambaram 
the  oldest  in  the  S.  of  India,  i 
portions  of  them  are  gems  of  i 
Here  is  placed  by  some  the  N.  from 
of  the  ancient  Chola  Kingdom, 
successive  capitals  of  which  were  Uri; 
on  the  Cauvery,  Eumbhakonam,  i 
Tanjore.  The  principal  temple 
sacred  to  SMva,  and  is  affirmed  to  h 
been  erected,  or  at  least  embellished 
Huranya  Varna  Chakravarti,  " 
golden-coloured  Emperor,"  who  is  i 
to  have  been  a  leper,  and  to  have  orig 
ally  borne  the  name  of  Swethavanm 
"the  white -coloured,"  on  accotmt 
his  leprosy,  and  to  have  come  S. 
pilgrimage.  He  recovered  at  CMdi 
baram  miraculously,  after  taking 
bath  in  the  tank  in  the  centre  of  * 
temple,  and  thereupon  rebuilt  or 
larged  the  temples.  He  is  said 
have  brought  3000  Brahmans  from 
N.  It  is  stated  in  one  of  the  Macken 
MSS.thatVira  Chola  Raja  (927-77  A.] 
saw  the  Sabhapati,  i,e,  Shiva,  dance 
the  sea-shore  with  his  wife,  Parbati,  ai 
erected  the  Kanak  Sabha,  or  gold 
shrine  in  memory  of  the  god,  who 
here  called  Natesa,  or  Nateshva 
*  *  god  of  dancing. "  The  whole  area 
surrounded  by  two  high  walls,  whi( 
contain  32  acres. 


BOUTE  31.      CHIDAMBARAH — XATAYEBAM 


34^ 


Tlie  oater  wall  of  aU  is  1800  ft.  long 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  1480  fL  from  E.  to 
W.  Nearly  in  the  centre  of  this  vast 
space  is  a  fine  tank,  315  ft.  x  180  fL 
^t  the  four  points  of  the  compass  are 
four  yast  ffopuras,  those  on  the  N.  and 
S.  being  about  160  ft.  hidii. 

Near  the  tank  is  the  Hall  of  1000 
Pillars,  which  is  340  fL  long  and  190 
ft.  broad.  Mr.  Fergusson  (p.  352, 
Hist,' of  Arch.)  makes  the  number  of 
pillars  in  this  hall  984.  This  is  one 
of  the  very  rare  instances  in  India 
where  the  so-called  Hall  of  1000 
Pillars  is  almost  furnished  with  that 
number. 

The  Temple  of  Parhat%  known  as 
Shivagamiamman,  the  wife  of  Shiva, 
is  prinoipallv  remarkable  for  its  porch, 
which  is  of  sin^^r  elegance.^  The 
outer  aisles  of  this  porch  are  5  ft  6  in. 
wide,  the  next  7  fL  9  in.,  and  the 
centre  23  fL  The  roof  is  supported  by 
bracketinff  shafts  tied  with  transverse 
purlins  tul  only  9  ft.  is  left  to  be 
spanned.  The  outer  enclosure  in  which 
tnis  temple  stands  is  very  elaborate, 
with  two  stories  of  pillars. 

Adjoining  this  Temple  of  Parbati 
is  one  to  Sttbrahmcmyaf  the  enclosure 
of  which  is  250  fL  x  306  fL  There  is 
the  image  of  apeacock  and  two  elephants 
in  front  of  it,  then  a  portico  witn  four 
pilars  in  front,  with  an  inner  court. 
Fergusson  assigns  the  end  of  the 
l7th  or  beginning  of  the  18th  centmj 
a^  the  date  of  this  temple.  There  is 
another  small  one  to  Subrahmanya, 
and  one  to  Ganesh  in  the  oomer  of  the 

Ssat  enclosure.  There  is  also  a  man- 
pam  to  the  S.  of  the  court  of 
PM*bati'a  Temple,  and  several  smaller 
mandapams  in  other  parts  of  the  great 
onolosure. 

The  principal  temple  to  Shiva  is  about 
30  yds.  S.  of  the  tank.  In  the  S.W. 
Qomer  of  this  enclosure  is  a  temple  to 
Parbati,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  S.  side 
an  idol  of  Nateshwar.  In  the  centre 
^  all  is  the  sanctuary,  which  consists 
of  two  parts.  In  this  is  the  most  sacred 
imsige  of  the  dancing  Shiva,  which  is 
that  of  a  naked  giant  with  four  arms,  his 
xi^ht  leg  planted  on  the  around,  and 
hu  left  lifted  sideways.  The  roof  of 
1  See  Fergusson,  p.  858.  j 


this  building  is  ooyered  with  pUt^.of 
gilt  copper.  There  is  also  a  tiny  shrine 
of  which  Mr.  Fergusson  says:  "The 
oldest  thing  now  existing  here  is  a  little 
shrine  in  the  small  enclosure  with  a 
little  porch  of  two  pillars  about  6  ft. 
high,  out  resting  on  a  st^lobate  orna- 
mented with  dancing  figures,  more 
graceful  and  more  elegantly  executed 
than  any  other  of  their  class,  so  far  as 
I  know,  in  S.  India.  At  the  sides 
are  wheels  and  horses,  the  whole  being 
intended  to  represent  a  car,  as  is  fre- 
quently jthe  case  in  these  tempLoSf 
Whitewash  and  modern  alterations 
have  sadly  disfigured  this  gem,  but 
enough  remains  to  show  how  exquisite, 
and  consequently  how  ancient,  it  was. 
It  was  dedicated  to  Verma,  the  god  of 
dancing."  Thispagoda  was  surrendered 
to  the  British  in  1760  without  a  shot, 
but  in  1781  Hyder  garrisoned  it  witb 
3000  men,  and  Sir  Eyre  Coote  was  re- 
pulsed from  it  with  the  loss  of  one 
gun. 

174  m.  Hayaveram  sta.  The  town,  8 
m.  distent  (23, 000  inhab.)>  is  a  place  of 
pilgrimage  in  November.  The  Shiva 
ragoda  has  one  large  gopura  and  one 
small  one.  The  Great  Gopura  stends  at 
the  entrance  on  the  S.  side  of  the  outer 
enclosure,  and  has  ten  stories.  To  the ' 
W.  of  this  gopura  is  a  Teppa  Kiilam, 
N.  of  this  is  the  Small  Gopura  with  six 
stories.  There  is  a  great  manufac- 
ture at  CoranadUj  1  m.  from  here,  of 
cloth,  worn  by  women  of  the  better 
classes. 

More  importent  are  the  temples  at 
193  m.  Eumbhakonam  ste.  (R.), 
D.B.,  in  the  Tan.jore  district,  pop* 
54,000.  The  pagodas  stand  near  the 
centre  of  the  town,  and  about  1  m.  from 
the  stetion.  The  largest  pagoda  is  dedi- 
cated to  Vishnu,  and  the  Great  Gopura 
here  has  eleven  stories.  Torches  are 
required  in  ascending  it,  as  the  stone 
steps  are  very  old,  broken  and  slimiery, 
ana  there  is  no  rail  to  teke  hold  of. 
The  walls  slope  inward,  and  the  floors 
are  of  stone,  and  shake  a  little  with 
the  tread  of  visitors.  The  total  height 
is  not  less  than  147  ft.    From  the  win- 


398 


ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TTNNEVETJT 


M 


dowi  a  good  view  la  obtained,  bat  the 
interior  of  the  temple  has  nothing 
remarkable.  A  street  arched  oyer 
and  880  ft.  lonff  and  15  ft.  broad, 
with  shops  on  either  side,  leads  to  the 
Shiva  Pagoda,  or  Temple  of  Kumbesh- 
wara. 

The  Mahomoham  Taiik.—A.t }  m.  to 
the  S.E.  of  the  pagodas  is  a  fine  tank, 
into  which  it  is  said  the  Ganges  flows 
onoe  in  twelve  years,  the  last  occasion 
being  in  1897.  On  these  occasions 
so  vast  a  concourse  of  people  enter 
the  water  to  bathe  that  the  snrfaoe 
rises  some  inches.  The  tank  has  six- 
teen small  but  pictareBane  pagodas 
studding  its  banks.  The  principal 
one  is  on  the  K.  side  of  the  tank,  and 
on^  its  ceiling  is  represented  in  alto- 
relievo  the  balance  m  which  a  certain 
Oomnd  Diehit  was  weighed  againstgold, 
which  was  then  given  to  the  Brah- 
mans.  This  worthy  is  represented 
sitting  in  one  scale,  while  a  huge  sack 
of  money  fills  the  other. 

The  Government  College  at  Eumbha- 
konam  was  formerly  one  of  the  best 
educational  institutions  in  India,  and 
procured  for  the  town  the  distinction  of 
being  called  the  Cambridge  of  Southern 
India ;  it  has  deteriorated  somewhat. 
There  are  but  few  Europeans  here. 

217  m.  TAKJOBE  juna  sta.  (R.), 
D.B.,30c  [Branch  48  m.  E.  to  Negapa- 
tam  for  Rameswaram,  see  below].  Pop. 
54,000.  The  delta  of  the  Cauvery 
river,  near  the  head  of  which  Taigore 
stands,  is  considered  the  garden  of 
Southern  India.  It  carries  a  dense 
population,  and  is  highly  irrigated. 

The  Tanjore  countey  was  under  the 
Cholasduring  the  whole  of  their  suprem- 
acjr.  Maratna  Venkaji  the  brother  of 
Smvaji  the  Great,  reduced  Tanjore,  pro- 
elaimed  himself  independent,  and  estab- 
lished a  Maratha  dynasty,  which  lasted 
till  1799.  The  British  first  came  into 
contact  with  Tanjore  by  their  expedi- 
tion in  1749,  with  a  view  to  the  restora- 
tion of  a  deposed  Raja. 

Tanjore  was  the  last  capital  of  the 
Chola  dynasty.  In  1768  it  was  attacked 
by  the  French  under  Lally,  who  ex- 
torted larcje  sums  from  the  reigning 
Mi^ratha  Raja.      Col.    Joseph  Smith 


oaptnred  the  Fort  in  1778,  and  m 
in  1776  it  was  occupied  by  the  Snj^ 
Raja  Sharabhoji,  by  a  treaty  in  171 
ceded  the  depenaent  territory  to  f 
British,  retaining  only  the  capital  UM 
small  tract  of  coimtry  around,  wM 
also  at  last  lapsed  to  the  Govemme 
in  1855,  on  the  death  of  the  then  nl 
without  legitimate  male  issue. 

The  LitUe  Fort  contains  the  On 
Pagoda,  which  with  the  palace 
Raja  in  the  Great  Fort  and  Schwait 
Church  are  the  sights  of  Tanjore.  T 
two  Forts  of  Tanjore,  which  are  mn 
dismantled,  are  so  connected  that  til 
may  be  almost  regarded  as  one. 

The  Great  Pagoda. — The  entnmoe 
under  a  eopura.  Then  follow  a  paao^ 
170  ft.  long,  and  a  second  gopnn 
smaller  dimensions.  There  appear 
be  six  stones  in  the  outer  gopnra  ai 
four  in  the  inner,  and  their  height  nu 
be  reckoned  at  about  90  and  60  ft.  i 
spectively.  There  is  a  long  inscriptii 
in  Tamil  characters  of  the  4th  cento 
on  either  side  of  the  passa^  thronj 
the  second  gopura.  After  this  the  out 
enclosure  of  the  pagoda,  415  ft.  x  i 
ft.,  is  entered.  On  the  rt  is  i 
Yajasala,  a  phice  where  sacrifices 
offered,  and  the  Sabhapati  Eovil, 
Shrine  of  Shiva,  as  the  presiding  gc 
of  an  assembly.  There  are  two  Bai 
piramSf  or  altars,  close  to  the  £.  wall, 
inside  and  one  outside  ;  and  at  aboi 
40  ft.  to  the  W.  of  this  E.  wall  is 
gigantic  JVane2i  in  black  granite,a 
fith  12  ft.  10  in.  high.  W.  of  this 
the  Kodi  Manvm.  A  portico  suppoite 
by  three  rows  of  pillars  leads  to  tw 
halls  75  ft.  X  70  ft.  each.  In  the  centr 
of  the  wall  of  an  adjoining  passi^ 
is  the  entrance  to  the  square  adytmn. 
Within  this  is  a  second  enclosure  56  & 
X  54  ft.,  and  over  the  whole  is  snpff- 
imposed  the  vast  tower  of  the  vimanah, 
200  ft.  high,  including  the  SkUcr,  « 
!=«T>iked  ornament.  N.E.  of  the  Greit 
Tower  is  the  Chindikasan  Kovil,  or 
shrine  of  the  god  who  reports  to  the 
chief  god  the  arrival  of  worshippers. 
Beyond  this,  at  the  N.W.  oomerof  the 
outer  enclosure,  is  the  SvhrahfMiKM 
KovU,  Shrine  of  Karttikeya,  Ae  son  of 
Shiva  and  deity  of  war,  who  is  callfld 


BOXJTB  31.      TANJORE 


399 


Snbrahmanya  (from  su,  ffood,  brahmcmy 
a  Brahman),  because  ne  is  so  good 
to  Brahmans  and  their  especial  pro- 
tector. 

Fergusson  says  of  this  wonderful 
shrine  that  it  "is  as  exquisite  a  piece 
of  decorative  architecture  as  is  to  be 
found  in  the  S.  of  India,  and  though 
small,  almost  divides  our  admiration 
with  the  temple  itself."  It  consists  of 
a  tower  55  ft.  high,  raised  on  a  base 
46  ft.  square,  adorned  with  pillars  and 
pilasters,  which  ornament  is  continued 
along  a  corridor  50  ft.  long,  communi- 
cating with  a  second  building  50  ft. 
square  to  the  E. 

Dr.  Bumell  considers  the  Snbrah- 
manya Temple  to  be  not  older  than  the 
commencement  of  the  16th  century. 
Its  beautiful  carving  seems  to  be  in 
imitation  of  wood. 

The  base  of  the  grand  temple,  i,e. 
the  vimanah  and  halls  leading  to  it,  is 
covered  with  inscriptions  in  the  old 
Tamil  of  the  11th  century,  which  Dr. 
Bumell  deciphered.  The  pyramidal 
tower  over  the  vimanah  has  evidently 
often  been  repaired  in  its  upper  part, 
where  the  images  of  gods  and  demons 
with  which  it  is  covered  are  now  only 
of  cement  This  tower  is  only  48 
ft.  lower  than  the  Kutb  Minar  at 
Delhi. 

Dr.  Bumell  says  in  his  pamphlet. 
The  GrecU  Tevn/ple  of  Tanj<yre:  "This 
temple  is  really  the  most  remarkable 
of  all  the  temples  in  the  extreme  S.  of 
India  ;  is  one  of  the  oldest ;  and  as  it 
has  been  preserved  with  little  altera- 
tion, if  not,  prhaps,  the  largest,  it  is 
the  best  specimen  of  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture peculiar  to  India  S.  of  Madras. 

**  This  style  arose  under  the  Chola  (or 
Tanjore)  kings  in  the  11th  century  a.d., 
w'iien  nearly  all  the  great  temples  to 
Shiva  in  S.  India  were  built,  and  it  con- 
tinued in  use  in  the  12th  and  13th 
centuries,  during  which  the  great 
temples  to  Vishnu  were  erected.  Up 
to  tne  beginning  of  the  16th  century 
these  temples  remained  almost  un- 
changed, but  at  that  time  all  S.  India 
became  subject  to  the  kings  of  Vija- 
yanag&i')  and  one  of  these,  named  Krish- 
naraya  (1609-30),  rebuilt  or  added  to 
most  of  the  great  temples  of  the  S. 


The  chief  feature  of  the  architeoture  of 
this  later  period  is  the  construction  of 
the  enormous  gopuras  which  are  so 
conspicuous  at  -Conjeveram,  Chidam- 
baram, and  Seringham.  All  these 
were  built  by  Krisnnaraya ;  they  do 
not  form  part  of  the  original  style,  but 
were  intended  as  fortifications  to  pro- 
tect the  shrines  from  foreign  invaders, 
and  certain  plunder  and  desecration, 
as  the  Hindus  first  discovered  on  the 
Mohammedan  invasion  of  1310  A.D." 

The  Palace  of  the  Princess  of  Tan- 
jore.— ^This building  is  in  theGreatFort 
The  entrance  is  in  the  E.  wall,  f  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.  There  is  a  masonrjr 
bridge  over  the  first  ditch,  which  is 
there  about  100  ft  broad.  The  palace 
is  a  vast  building  of  masonry,  and 
stands  on  the  left  of  the  street,  which 
runs  northward  through  the  Fort;  it 
was  built  about  1560  a.d.  After  pass- 
ing through  two  quadrangles  a  third 
is  entered,  on  the  S.  side  of  which 
is  a  building  like  a  gopura,  90  ft. 
high,  with  eight  stories.  It  was  once 
an  armoury.  Mr.  Fergussoa^tevs  of 
this  tower :  *  *  As  you  approaciB|p^*ore, 
you  see  two  great  vimanahs  n^Httnlike 
each  other  in  dimensions  or  outline, 
and  at  a  distance  can  hardly  distinguish 
which  belongs  to  the  great  temple. 
On  close  inspection,  however,  that  of 
the  palace  turns  out  to  be  made  up  of 
dumpy  pilasters  and  fat  balusters,  and 
ill -designed  mouldings  of  Italian  archi- 
tecture, mixed  up  with  a  few  details  of 
Indian  art !  a  more  curious  and  taste- 
less jumble  could  hardly  be  found  in 
Calcutta  or  Lucknow. "  On  the  E.  of  the 
quadrangle  is  the  Telugu  Bwrbwr-room, 
Here  is  a  platform  of  black  granite. 
On  the  sides  are  sculptured  in  alto- 
relievo  Surs  and  Asurs  fighting.  On 
this  platform  stands  a  white  marble 
statue  of  Sharfoji,  the  pupil  of  Schwartz, 
and  the  last  Raja  but  one.  He  is 
standing  with  the  palms  of  his  hands 
joined  as  if  in  prayer,  and  he  wears  the 
curious  triangular  pointed  cap  used  by 
the  Tanjore  princes  in  the  last  half  cen- 
tury of  their  rule.  The  statue  is  by 
Flaxman,  and  is  a  good  specimen  of 
that  great  artist's  work.  On  the  wall 
is  a  picture  of  Lord  Pigot. 


4QQ 


ROUTE  31,      MAPBAS  TO  TIKIfEVELLT 


Ml 


There  are  also  numerous  pictures  of 
the  R%jas.  In  the  same  quadrangle  ia 
the  X/ibrary,  in  which  is  a  remarkable 
collection  of  18,000  Sanscrit  MSS.,  of 
which  8000  are  written  on  palm  leaves. 
This  library  is  unique,  and  in  India,  at 
least,  nothmg  at  all  equal  to  it  is  to  be 
found  as  regaras  Sanscrit:  it  dates  from 
the  end  of  the  16th  or  beginning  of  the 
17th  oentury.  After  this  the  visitor 
may  go  to  the  Maratha  Da/rhar,  which 
is  m  another  quadran^e.  Here  is  a 
large  picture  of  Shivaji,  the  last  Raja, 
wiUi  nis  chief  secietary  on  his  right, 
and  his  Diwan  on  his  left.  Remark 
also  a  fine  bust  of  Nelson,  presented  to 
the  Rsja  by  the  Hon.  Anne  Seymour 
Darner,  whose  work  it  is. 

Schwartz's  Church  is  in  the  Little 
Fort,  close  to  the  Shivaganga  Tank. 
Over  the  gate  is  the  date  1777,  and 
over  the  facade  of  its  church  is  1779 
A«p.  In  the  centre,  opposite  the  com- 
munion-table, is  a  very  fine  group  of 
figures  in  white  marble,  by  Flaxman, 
representing  the  death  of  Schwartz. 
The  a^d  missionary  is  eztended  on 
his  bed,  and  on  his  left  stands  the  Raja 
Sharfoji,  his  pupil,  with  two  attendantis, 
while  on  his  right  is  the  missionary 
Kohlner,  and  near  the  bottom  of  the 
bed  are  four  boys.  The  inscription 
contains  a  summary  of  his  career.  The 
small  house  N.W.  of  the  church,  and 
close  to  it,  is  said  to  have  been  Schwartz's 
habitation. 

Next  to  the  Shivaganga  Tank  is  the 
People' 8  Park,  In  the  English  Church 
there  is  a  handsome  tablet  to  Schwartz, 
and  in  the  cemetery  adjoining  Lord 
Hastings  was  buried. 

Tanjore  district  was  the  scene  of  the 
earliest  labours  of  Protestant  mission- 
aries in  India.  In  1706  the  German 
missionaries  Ziegenbalg  and  Pliitschau 
established  a  Lutheran  mission  in  the 
Danish  settlement  of  Tranauebar,  under 
the  patronage  of  King  Fiederick  IV.  of 
Denmark  ;  and  in  1841  their  establish- 
ments were  taken  over  by  the  Leipzig 
Evangelical  Lutheran  Mission,  which 
subsequently  extended  its  operations 
into  the  district.  The  mission  at 
Tai\)ore  was  founded  in  1778  by  the 
Rev.  C.  F.  Schwartz  of  the  Tranauebar 
Mission,  who  some  time  previously  had 


transferred  hia  services  to  the  SoeMj 
for  Promoting  Christian  Enowladgi 
The  mission  establishments  at  TaaJQH 
were  taken  over  in  1826  by  the  Sockb 
for  the  Propagation  of  the  Go6pe( 
which  subsequently  founded  new  tti 
tions  in  several  parts  of  the  district 

Roman  Catholic  missions  in  Taigcq 
date  from  the  first  half  of  the  17ft 
century.  Their  churches  and  chapA 
are  scattered  over  the  whole  distne^ 
but  their  principal  seats  are  Negapstii% 
Velanganni  (on  the  coast,  6  m.  WBtk 
of  Negapatam),  Tanjore,  Vallam,  u4 
Kumbhakonam.  The  St  Jos^h'i 
College,  which  was  founded  in  1841 
by  the  French  Jesuits  at  Negapatam, 
was  removed  to  Trichinopoly  in  1883, 

Tanjore  is  famous  for  its  artistie 
manufactures,  including  silk  carpeb^ 
jewellery,  r^poussi  work,  copper  wh^ 
and  curious  models  in  pith  and  o&tr 
materials. 

[Negapatam  (R)  48  m.  K  fioi 
Tanjore  on  branch  line.  A  flonrishii] 
port  on  the  Coromandel  Coast  doing  i 
brisk.trade  with  the  Straits  SettlemenJl 
and  Coast  Ports.  Contains  the  laffl 
Workshops  of  the  South  Indian  M 
way.  Negapatam  was  one  of  thi 
earliest  Settlements  of  the  Portuguese 
It  was  taken  by  the  Dutch  in  1660  aoi 
by  the  English  in  1781.     From  Neg^ 

rtam  steamers  belonging  to  the  R  L 
N.  Company  run  once  a  week  to 
Colombo  vid  Palk  Strait  and  Paumbea, 
which  ia  on  the  mainland  opposite      . 

Bameswaram,  a  low  sandy  iBlaod  in  | 
the  narrow  straits  between  Ceylon  and  i 
India,  containing  one  of  the  nwrt 
venerated  Hindu  Shrines  in  Indiii 
founded  according  to  tradition  by 
Rama  himself.  It  is  associated  with 
Kama's  journey  to  Ceylon  in  search  jrf 
Sita,  and  plays  an  important  part  ia 
the  JRamayana,  For  centuries  thii 
temple  has  been  the  object  of  pilgriB- 
ages  from  all  parts  of  India.  It  is  to 
their  control  of  the  passage  from  the 
mainland  that  the  Chiefs  of  Kamoad 
owe  their  hereditary  title  of  Setnpati, 
'  *  Lord  of  the  Causeway.  !* 

The  island  is  to  a  great  extend 
covered  with  babUl  (Acacia  flwi  . 
trees.  It  is  principally  inhabited  If 
Brahmans  and  their  followers,  whom 


ROTTTB  31.       TRIOHINOPOLY 


401 


tapported  by  the  profits  derived  from 
the  temples.  South  of  the  great  temple 
is  tk  fresh-water  lake,  about  three  miles 
in  circamference. 

The  great  Temple  stands  on  rising 
^und  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
island,  in  a  qnadrangalar  enclosure 
657  feet  broad  by  about  1000  feet 
long,  and  is  entered  by  a  gateway  100 
feet  high.  The  height  of  the  temple 
is  about  120  feet,  with  its  majestic 
tpwers,  its  vast  and  gloomy  colonnades, 
and  its  walls  encrusted  with  carved 
work  and  statuary,  it  is  a  grand 
example  of  the  Dravidian  style.  The 
best  and  oldest  portion  is  built  of  a 
,  dark,  hard  limestone,  to  which  there  is 
nothing  similar  in  the  rest  of  the  build- 
ing. Local  tradition  asserts  that  it 
was  erected  by  the  Vara  Raja,  Sekkarar, 
of  Eandy,  with  stone  cut  and  polished 
in  Ceylon.  Its  cost  is  said  to  have 
been  defrayed  by  the  seaport  dues 
of  all  the  coast  towns  of  the  estate, 
during  the  year  that  it  was  building. 
Note  the  massiveness  of  the  workman- 
ship (slabs  of  40  feet  long  being  used 
in  the  doorways  and  ceilings),  and  the 
wonderful  pillared  haUs  which  sur- 
round the  inner  shrine. 

Fergnsson  says,  "  If  it  were  proposed 
to  select  one  temple  which  should 
exhibit  all  the  beauties  of  the  Dravidian 
style  in  their  greatest  perfection,  and 
at  the  same  time  exemplify  all  its 
characteristic  defects  of  design,  the 
choice  would  almost  inevitably  fall 
upon  that  at  Bameswaram.  In  no 
other  tenifple  has  the  same  amount  of 
patient  industry  been  exhibited  as 
here;  and  in  none,  unfortunately, 
has  that  labour  been  so  thrown  away 
for  want  of  a  design  appropriate  to  its 
display.  While  the  temple  at  Tanjore 
produces  an  effect  greater  than  is  due 
to  its  mass  or  detail,  this  one,  with 
doable  its  dimensions  and  ten  times 
its  elaboration,  produces  no  effect  ex- 
ternally, and  internally  cab  only  be 
seen  in  detail,  so  that  the  parts  hardly 
in  any  instance  aid  one  another  in  pro- 
ducing the  effect  aimed  at. 

"The  glory  of  the  temple  is  in  its 

corridors.     These    extend   to  a    total 

length   of   nearly   4,000    feet.     Their 

breadth  varies  from  20  feet  to  30  feet 

[India] 


of  free  floor  space,  and  their  height  is 
apparently  about  80  feet  from  the  floor 
to  the  centre  of  the  roof.  Each  pillar 
or  pier  is  compound,  and  richer  and 
more  elaborate  in  design  than  those  of 
the  parvati  porch  at  Chidambaram, 
and  certainly  more  modem  in  date. 

"  None  of  our  English  cathedrals  are 
more  than  500  feet  long,  and  even  the 
nave  of  St.  Peter's  is  only  600  feet 
from  the  door  to  the  apse.  Here  the 
side  corridors  are  700  feet  long  and 
open  into  transverse .  galleries  as  rich 
in  detail  as  themselves.  These,  with 
the  varied  devices  and  modes  of  light- 
ing, produce  an  effect  that  is  not 
equalled  certainly  anywhere  in  India." 

The  temple,  its  ceremonies,  and  its 
attendant  Brahmins  are  maintained 
from  the  revenue  of  57  villages,  yield- 
ing an  annual  income  of  about  £4500, 
granted  by  former  Kajas  of  the  Raronad 
ZeminddH.  The  lingam  is  supposed 
to  have  been  placed  here  by  Rama  ;  it 
is  washed  witn  Ganges  water,  which  is 
afterwards  sold.] 

248  m.  Trichinopoly  juno.  sta.  (R.) 
30c  (branch  W.  to  Erode,  Rte.  30), 
D.B.  Pop.  91,000.  St.  John's  Church 
is  close  to  the  station.  The  two 
historic  masses  of  granite,  the  Golden 
Rock  and  the  Fakir's  Rock,  are  in  the 
plain  to  the  S.  Close  to  the  former  is 
the  Central  Jail.  Near  it  the  French 
were  defeated  in  two  engagements. 

251  m.  Trichinopoly  Fort  sta.  on 
the  Ih-ode  Branchy  which  runs  87  m. 
to  the  N.W.,  and  joins  the  Madras 
Railway  at  Erode.  Tlie  Fort  has  been 
dismantled,  but  this  part  of  the  town 
is  still  known  as  "the  Fort." 

In  November  1753  the  French  made 
anight  attack  on  the-Fort,  and  succeeded 
in  entering  the  outer  line  of  fortifica- 
tions at  DcUUyrCs  Battery  at  the  N.W. 
angle.  Here  there  was  a  pit  30  ft.  deep, 
into  which  many  of  the  assailants  fell. 
Their  screams  alarmed  the  garrison,  who 
repelled  them,  and  made  360  of  the 
French  prisoners.  This  portion  of  the 
Old  Fort  is  all  that  has  been  left 
standing.  The  moat  that  surrounded 
it  has  been  filled  in  and  planted  as  a 
boulevard. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  with  a 
temple  on  it,  is  the  Rock.  The 
2d 


40S 


ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNETELLY 


India 


entrance  to  the  coTered  passage  which 
leads  np  to  the  top  is  on  the  S. 
side,  and  ou  the  sides  of  the  passage 
are  stone  elephants  and  pillars  abont 
18  it.  high,  which  bear  the  stamp 
of  Jain  architecture.  The  pillars  have 
carved  capitals  representing  the  lion 
of  the  S.,  and  vanous  figures  of  men 
and  women.  The  Meze  above  is  oma- 
aiented  with  carvings  of  animals. 
Flights  of  very  steep  steps,  290  in 
number,  coloured  white  with  red 
stripes,  lead  through  this  passage 
to  the  vestibule  of  a  Shivite  temple, 
whence  on  certain  days  the  images  of 
the  gods  —  viz.  of  Shiva,  Parbati, 
GaneSi,  and  Subrahmanya,  or  Skanda 
— are  carried  in  procession.  There  is  a 
huge  Nandi  Bull  covered  with  silver 
pJates,  which  must  be  very  valuable. 
Tlie  steps  of  the  ascent  were  the  scene 
of  a  frightful  disaster  in  1849.  A  vast 
crowd  had  assembled  to  worship  Ganesh, 
who  is  here  called  Pilliar,  or  *  *  the  son." 
A  panic  arose,  and  in  the  crush  which 
ensued  600  people  were  killed.  Other 
staircases  in  the  E.  portion  of  the  Rock 
lead  to  a  mandapam,  or  pavilion, 
whence,  as  well  as  from  the  rocky 
platform  itself,  there  is  one  of  the 
finest  panoramic  views  to  be  seen  in 
the  plains  of  India.  On  all  sides 
the  eye  traverses  the  plain  for  20  or 
80  m.  The  height  of  the  Rock  is 
only  286  ft,  but  the  plain  is  so  flat 
that  this  height  is  sufficient  to  domin- 
ate a  vast  expanse  of  country.  On 
the  S.  the  most  conspicuous  object  is 
the  Golden  Eock^  about  100  ft.  high. 
At  the  foot  of  it,  to  the  W.,  is  the 
Central  Jail.  Within  the  town,  distant 
only  a  few  hundred  yards,  is  the 
Nawdb's  Palace,  which  has  been  restored 
by  Government  and  is  used  for  courts 
and  public  offices.  Carrying  the  eye  to 
the  S.E.  of  this  rock,  a  patch  of  low 
hills  is  seen,  the  highest  not  being  above 
40  ft.  This  is  French  Bocks,  about  2  m. 
firom  the  Fort.  To  the  N.  of  the  Fort 
Rock  is  the  broad  shaUow  bed  of  the 
Oiuvery,  in  which,  except  in  the  rains, 
there  \a  but  a  narrow  streak  of  water. 
Beyond  is  the  Island  of  Serirvgham, 
which  the  French  occupied  for  several 
years,  taking  up  their  quarters  in  the 
two  great  temples,  that  of  Seringham 


to  the  W.,  and  that  of  Jambakeshwir 
to  the  £.  The  island  is  17  m.  long  \jf 
about  1}  m.  broad,  and  Seringham 
temple  is  5  m.  from  the  W.  extremity, 
but  owin^  to  dense  groves  the  templea 
are  not  distinctly  seen.  Beyond  to  the 
N.  in  the  far  distance  rises  a  long  line 
of  hills.  To  the  N.W.  is  the  Tale 
Malai  range,  the  greatest  height  of 
which  is  1800  ft.  ;  while  due  N.  of  the 
Fort  Rock  are  the  Kale  Malai  HiUa, 
which  attain  4000  ft.  ;  and  £.  of  these 
are  the  Pach^  Malals,  which  in  some 

rs  rise  to  2300  ft.  Turning  to  tiie 
the  old  town  of  Wariur  is  seen, 
where  there  was  once  a  cantonmoit 
At  the  foot  of  the  Fort  Rock  is  a  hand- 
some Teppa  Kulam  tank  with  stone 
steps  and  a  mandapam,  or  temple,  in 
the  centre.  At  the  S.E.  comer  of  thii 
tank  are  a  square  comer -house,  and 
adjoining  a  house  with  a  porch.  In 
one  of  these  Clive  lived,  but  it  is  not 
certain  in  which. 

The  Jail. — Trichinopoly  Central  Jail 
is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Madras 
Presidency.  It  stands  well  on  risiog 
ground  about  2  m.  S.  of  St.  John's 
Church,  with  a  hill  popularly  called 
the  Golden  Rock  about  400  yds. 
from  its  N.E.  comer.  An  order  firom 
the  superintendent  is  required  to  visit 
the  jail. 

Other  objects  of  interest  are  the  Bath 
at  the  Judge's  Court  in  which  Bishop 
Heher  ^  died— the  spot  is  marked  by  a 
tablet  erected  by  the  Government  of 
Madras — and  Ghamda  Sahib^s  Tomb,  at 
the  shrine  of  Naiar  Aulia.  This  latter 
appears  to  be  built  from  materials  of 
Hindu  temples,  and  may  date  from 
the  invasion  of  Malik  Kafur  in  1310. 
There  are  an  S.P.G.  College  and  a 
Jesuit  College  here. 

The  most  important  local  Industria 
are  weaving,  and  tobacco  and  cigar 
making.  The  cigars  are  Well  known, 
though  the  so-called  Trichinopoly 
cheroots  come  for  the  most  part  from 
Dindigal.  The  silver  and  gold  manu- 
factures are  famous  ;  the  local  gold  and 
silver  smiths  being  very  successful  in 
their  iiligree-work. 

Abont  2  m.  N.  from  the  Rock,  on  an 

1  See  his  LiSe  by  Dr.  George  Bmith  (l»ft 
chap.  xiii. 


ROUTE  31.       TRICHINOPOLT 


403 


island  formed  by  a  biturcation  of  the 
river  Cauvery,  is  the  town  of  Sering- 
ham  (20,000  inhab.)  A  bridge  of 
d2  arches  joins  the  mainland  to  the 
kLand, 

The  Great  Temple  of  Sri  Bangaw 
is  about  1  m.  N.W,  of  the  bridge. 
The  entrance  from  Triohinopoly  is  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  temple,  by  a  grand 
gateway,  which  appears  to  have  been 
built  as  the  base  of  a  ^eat  gopnra. 
This  gateway  is  48  ft.  high  from  the 
ground  to  its  terraced  roof.    The  sides 
of  the  passage  are  lined  with  pilasters, 
and  ornamented.    The  passage  is  about 
100  ft.  long,  and  the  inner  height,  ex- 
ehisiTe  of  the  roof,  is  43  ft.   Vast  mono- 
liths have  been  used  as  uprights  in  the 
construction,  some  of  them  over  40  ft. 
high.    The  stones  on  the  roof  laid  hori- 
zontally are  also  vast.   The  stone  on  the 
inside  of  the  arch  is  29  ft.  7  in.  long, 
4  ft.  5  in.  broad,  and  about  8  ft.  thick. 
There  are  two  pilasters  in  the  gateway, 
with  an  inscription  in  Tamil  characters. 
From  the  terrace  at  the  top  of  the  gate- 
way is  seen  the  vast  outer  wall  which 
encloses  the  gardens  as  well  as  the  build- 
ings of  this  the  largest  temple  in  India. 
This  outer  enclosure,  2475  ft.  x  2880  ft., 
contains  a  bazaar.     Within  this  is  a 
second  wall  20  ft.  high  enclosing  the 
dwellings  of  theBrahmans  in  the  service 
of  the  temple.     The  general  design  is 
marred  by  the  fact  that  the  buildings 
diminish  in  size  and  importance  from 
the  exterior  to  the  innermost  enclosure ; 
and  Fergusson  says,  "If  its  principle 
of  design  could  be  reversed,  it  would  be 
one  of  the  finest  temples  in  the  S.  of 
India."    There  are  two  great  gopuras 
on  the  E.  side,  two  smaller  on  the  "W., 
and  three  of  a  medium  height  o;i  the  S. 
Advancing  from  the  Triohinopoly  side, 
the    ti-aveller    passes   imder  a   small 
mandapam,  and  then  through  a  gopura 
about  60  ft.  high.     The  ceilings  of  the 
gopuras  are  all  painted,  and  the  ceiling 
of  this  one  represents  the  Varahah,  or 
Boar  Incarnation,  of  Vishnu,  as  well 
as  other  Avataras  with  multitudes  of 
human   beings    adoring   them.      The 
colours  are  well  preserved.    After  this  a 
second  mandapam  is  passed  under  and 
a  second  and  third  gopura.     Hard  by 

is  aaothw  enolosing  wall,  which  sur- 


rounds the  more  sacred  part,  or  real 
temple,  beyond  which  is  the  vimanah, 
or  adytum,  which  none  but  Hindus 
are  allowed  to  enter. 

At  a  third  mandapam  the  jewels  of 
the  temple  may  be  examined.  Observe 
three  ornaments  called  Venkalatha 
Padukam,  of  which  two  are  of  diamonds 
and  emeralds,  and  the  third  of  diamonds 
and  rubies.  One  of  these  is  valued 
at  85,000  rs.  There  are  also  several 
coverings  for  the  hands  and  feet  of 
idols  of  gold  studded  with  jewels,  as 
well  as  large  rings  for  the  toes.  Ob- 
serve too  chains  of  gold  of  local  manu- 
facture, which  are  as  flexible  as  string, 
and  a  golden  bowl  said  to  be  wortn 
11,500  rs.  There  are  also  chains  of 
gold,  5-franc  pieces,  and  others  of  gold 
6-rupee  pieces. 

In  the  court  round  the  central  en- 
closure is  the  so-called  ffall  of  1000 
Pillars.  (Fergusson  counted  960,  but 
the  number  is  now  much  reduced.) 
They  are  granite  monoliths  18  ft.  high, 
with  pediments,  slightly  carved  to  the 
height  of  3  ft. ,  and  they  aU  have  the 
plantain  bracket  at  top.  The  pillars 
of  the  front  row  looking  N.  represent 
men  on  rearing  horses  spearing  tigers, 
the  horses*  feet  supportedby  the  shields 
of  men  on  foot  beside  them.  After  this 
the  great  gopura  which  is  on  the  N.  may 
be  visited.  The  total  height  is  162  ft. 
In  the  floor  of  the  passage  under  this 
gopura  is  a  stone  with  a  Eanarese  in- 
scription. With  the  exception  of  the 
pillars  with  supporters  carved  in  the 
shape  of  horsemen,  there  is  nothing 
that  can  be  called  interesting.  The 
gopuras  are  clumsily  built,  and,  not- 
withstanding their  enormous  bulk, 
shake  with  the  steps  of  a  few  men.  Mr. 
Fergusson  is  of  opinion  that  the  build- 
ing was  commenced  about  1700  A.D.* 
A  Mela  (religious  fair)  is  held  here 
every  winter. 

Temple  of  Jambukeshwar. — In  the 
S.  of  India  temples  are  often  foimd  in 
pairs.  If  there  is  one  dedicated  to 
Vishnu,  there  will  be  one  dedicated  to 
Shiva.  So  Here,  at  about  1^  m.  from 
the  Great  Temple  of  Seringham,  is  a 
smaller  one  sacred  to  Jambukeshwar, 

1  See  his  Ind.  An^it^  where  there  is  an 
illustration  and  description  of  the  temples. 


404 


ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  IINNBVBLLT 


India 


OT  ShiYAy  from  jambttka,  "rose-apple," 
and  ishtoar  "lord,"  or  Lord  of  India, 
Jamba  being  a  division  of  the  world, 
"India,"  and  Ishwar,  "deity." 

The  Jambokeshwar  temple  has  three 
oonrts,  is  rery  much  smaller  than  that 
of  Seringham,  and  has  now  a  neglected, 
deserted  look.  The  plan,  however,  of 
the  building  is  more  artistic,  and  the 
main  corridor  and  proportions  are  fine. 
On  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  an 
upright  stone  4  ft.  high,  with  a  long 
Tamil  inscription.  The  first  gopura  is 
also  the  gateway  of  entrance.  The 
ceiling  is  painted  with  flowers  of  the 
lotus.  Within  the  inner  court  is  a 
remarkable  Teppa  KtUam,  or  tank,  of 
spring  water  with  a  pavilion  in  the 
centre.  Bound  the  S.,  the  E.,  and 
the  N.  sides  runs  a  corridor  of  two 
stories  supported  by  pillars.  Beyond 
this  is  a  second  gopura,  and  a  third 
which  forms  part  of  the  wall  enclosing 
the  adytum.  Thence  a  fine  corridor 
leads  to  the  vimanah.  On  the  whole, 
this  is  a  very  fine  Temple,  and  well 
worth  a  visit.  It  is,  no  doubt,  older 
than  that  of  Seringham,  probably  about 
1600. 

The  AnikatB,  or  dams.— The  Cauvery, 
about  9  m.  to  the  W.  of  Trichinopoly, 
and  a  little  to  the  W.  of  the  W. 
extremity  of  Seringham  island,  separ- 
ates into  two  branches  which  enclose 
the  island,  the  N.  branch  being  called 
the  Coleroon  or  Kolidwn^  and  the  S. 
the  Cauvery.  It  had  long  been  observed 
that  the  1^  channel  was  deepening  and 
the  S.  becoming  more  and  more  shedlow, 
and  lest  the  Taniore  OoUectorate  should 
thus  be  deprivea  of  water  sufficient  for 
irrigation,  a  dam  was  constructed  across 
the  Coleroon  in  1836.  •  In  June  the 
S.W.  monsoon  causes  the  Cauvery  to 
swell,  and  in  July  and  August  it  be- 
comes a  mighty  river,  and  dwindles  to 
a  small  stream  in  September  and  Oc- 
tober, rising  again  in  November  with 
the  N.E.  monsoon.  After  parting  with 
the  Coleroon,  it  sends  off  a  number  of 
branches  which  irrigate  Tanjore,  the 
chief  one  being  callea  the*  Vennar,  and 
then  falls  into  the  sea  20  m.  S.  of  the 
spot  where  the  Coleroon  disembogues. 
The  Upper  Anikut  constructed  by 
Ciolonel  Cotton  has  been  completely 


successful  in  preventing  an  excess  of 
water  entering  the  Coleroon.  It  con- 
sists of  three  parts,  being  broken  by  two 
islands.  It  is  a  brick  wall  7  fL  high 
and  6  ft.  thick,  capped  with  stone,  and 
is  based  on  two  rows  of  wells  sank  9 
ft  below  the  river's  bed.  It  is  de- 
fended by  an  apron  of  cut  stone  firom 
21  to  40  ft.  broad.  There  are  twenty- 
four  sluices,  which  help  to  soour  the 
bed.  It  influences  the  irrigation  of 
about  600,000  acres.  About  9  m.  £. 
of  Triohinopolv  is  the  Grand  Anikut, 
an  ancient  work,  and  below  that  is  the 
Lower  Anikut,  built  in  1836.  It 
supplies  the  Yiranam  tank  in  S.  Aroot, 
ana  waters  the  taluks  of  Chidambaram 
and  Manargudi  in  that  Collectorate. 

3  m.  S.W.  of  Trichinopoly  is  the 
fortified  pagoda  which  was  occupied  by 
the  French  in  1753,  and  recaptured  by 
the  British  under  Migor  Lawrence. 
The  place  is  highly  interesting,  and 
much  remains  to  be  discovered  about 
its  history. 

306  m.  Dindigal  sta.  (R.),  a  muni- 
cipal town  (14,000  inhab.)  in  the  larns 
Collectorate  of  Madura  and  the  head- 
quarters of  a  Sub-Collector.    It  also  has 
a   considerable    tobacco  manufiiotore. 
The  climate  is  cooler  and  more  healtiiy 
than   that    of   Madura.      The    great 
rock  on  which  the  fort  is  built  forms 
a  conspicuous   object  from  the   rail- 
way, and  is  worth  a  visit.     It  rises 
from  the  midst  of  a  low -lying  plain, 
richly  cultivated  with  various  crops, 
and  stands  quite  isolated.    The  summit 
is  1223  ft.  above  sea-level,  280  ft  above 
the  plain.     Its  lofty  precipitous  and 
inaccessible  sides  were  strongly  fortified 
under  the  first  Nayakkan  kings,  if  not 
before  ;  and  for  a  long  time  it  was  the 
key  of  Ihe  province  of  Madura  on  the 
W.     Dindigal  was  taken  by  the  British 
from  Tipu  in  1781,  and  restored  to  him 
in  1784,  but  finally  ceded  to  the  British 
in  1792. 

319  m.  Ammayanayakamir  sta. 
From  this  point  may  be  made  an 

[EjBcunfion  to  the  Palney  or  Palni 
Hills. — ^This  journey  requires  special 
arrangements.  The  distance  to  Kodai- 
kanal  is  48  m.  by  road.  This  station 
ei^  oys  a  growing  popularity.  It  is  7209 
fL   above  sea-leveL      The  climate  is 


ROUTE  31.       MADURA 


405 


milder  and  more  even  than  that  of 
Ootacamund.  The  pop.  is  1000.  The 
site  is  not  well  chosen  as  regards  scenery, 
but  there  are  places  where  the  views  of 
the  low  country  and  the  Animalei  HiUs 
to  the  W.  are  beautiful  past  description. 
The  sportsman  will  find  bison,  timers, 

£  anthers,  bears,  the  wild  dogs,  which 
nnt  in  packs,  and  sambar.  There 
are  also  ilorican  and  woodcock.  Nut- 
meg, cinnamon,  and  pepper-vine  grow 
wild.  Coffee,  orange  trees,  lime  trees, 
citron,  and  sago  are  cultivated.] 

344  m.  Madura  sta.  (R. ),  D.  B.  sOc  (pop. 
87,000)  upon  the  Vaigai  river  was  the 
capital  of  the  old  Pandyan  kingdom. 

The  Palace  of  Tirumala  Nayak  is  1^ 
m.  W.  of  the  rly.  sta.  This  prince  was 
the  greatest  of  all  the  rulers  of  Madura 
in  modem  times.  He  succeeded  Muttu 
Yirappa  in  1623,  and  reigned  gloriouslv 
thirty-six  years.  The  palace,  which 
looks  modem,  and  has  pillars  of  rough 
granite  cased  with  cement  supporting 
scalloped  arches,  has  been  restored  and 
is  ntiUsed  for  public  offices.  The 
entrance  to  it  is  on  the  K  side,  by  a 
granite  portico  built  in  honour  of  Lord 
Napier  and  Ettrick,  who  first  ordered 
the  restoration.  At  each  comer  of  the 
K  face  of  the  palace  is  a  low  tower. 
The  Napier  Gateway  gives  access  to  a 
rraadrangle  252x151  ft.  On  the  K, 
N.,  and  S.  sides  is  a  corridor,  the  roof 
supported  by  arches  resting  on  granite 
piilars.  On  the  W.  side  the  corridor 
18  double,  and  is  67  ft.  broad.  The 
W.  side  is  occupied  by  a  lofty  hall : 
on  one  of  the  ^ones  of  the  staircase 
which  leads  up  to  it  there  is  a  Tamil  in- 
scription. Passing  from  the  staircase 
to  a  corridor  25  ft.  oroad,  a  court  under 
the  Grand  Dome,  which  was  the  throne- 
room,  is  reached.  It  is  61  ft  in  diameter, 
and 73  ft.  high.  Outside  round  the  dome 
are  galleries  where  the  ladies  in  Tiru- 
mala's  time  sat  and  watched  the  state 
receptions.  To  the  W.  of  the  grand 
dome  is  another  domed  chamber,  used 
for  the  Collector's  records  and  treasury. 
N.  and  S.  of  the  grand  dome  are 
smaller  ones.  That  on  the  S.  has 
been  completely  restored,  while  that 
on  the  N.  is  untouched,  and  affords 
a  good  means  for  comparing  the  old 
colouring  with    the    i-cstored.      Pass- 


ing N.,  to  the  W.  of  this  is  an  apart- 
ment 54  ft.  high  called  Tirumala's  bed- 
room. There  were  four  holes  in  the 
middle  of  the  roof,  two  on  either  side, 
and  between  the  two  on  the  S.  side  was 
a  laige  open  hole.  There  is  a  legend 
that  Tirumala's  cot  was  suspended  Irom 
hooks  fixed  in  the  four  holes,  and  that 
the  large  hole  between  the  two  S.  holes 
was  made  by  a  thief  who  descended 
from  it  by  the  chain  supporting  that 
comer  of  the  cot,  and  stole  the  crown 
jewels.  Tirumala  is  said  to  have  offered 
an  hereditary  estate  to  the  thief,  if  he 
would  restore  the  jewels,  addine  that 
no  questions  would  be  asked.  On  re- 
covering the  jewels  he  kept  his  word, 
but  ordered  the  man  to  be  decapitated. 
At  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  building  is 
a  staircase  leading  to  the  roof,  whence 
a  view  over  Madura  may  be  had.  Close 
to  the  foot  of  this  staircase  is  a  door 
leading  into  the  Magistrate's  Court, 
which  is  perhaps  the  most  elegant  part 
of  the  palace,  and  has  been  completely 
restored.  On  the  S.  side  of  it  are  two 
black  basaltic  pillars,  monoliths  18  ft. 
high.  This  old  palace  now  forms  one 
of  the  finest  public  buildings  in  India. 

The  English  Ckurek,  designed  by 
Mr.  Chisholm,  C.E.,  and  buUt  at  the 
expense  of  Mr.  Fischer,  a  former  well- 
known  resident  at  Madura,  stands  in 
an  open  space  in  the  middle  of  the  town 
S.  W.  of  the  Great  Temple. 

On  the  farther  side  of  the  river 
Vaigai,  N.  of  the  city,  and  about  1 
m.  from  the  bridge  (recently  com- 
pleted), is  a  building  called  the  Tarn- 
kam,  built  by  Tirumala  for  exhibiting 
fights  between  wild  beasts  and  gladi- 
ators, but  now  the  Collector's  house. 

The  Great  Temple  (about  1  m.  W. 
of  rly.  sta.)  forms  a  parallelogram 
about  847  ft.  x  729  fb,  surrounded  by 
9  gopuras,  of  which  the  largest  is  152 
ft.  hieh.  We  are  certain  that  all  the 
most  oeautifiil  portions  of  the  temple 
as  it  now  stands  were  built  by  Tirumala 
Nayak  in  the  first  half  of  the  I7th 
century.  Some  of  the  carving  is  superb, 
and  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  S.  India. 
It  consists  of  two  parts — on  the  E.  a 
temple  to  Minakshiy  "the  fish -eyed 
godaess, "  the  consort  of  Shiva ;  and  one 
to   Shiva,  here  called  Suiuiareshwar, 


406 


ROUTE  31.       MADRAS  TO  TINNEVELLY 


Inata 


on  the  W.  aide.  The  entrance  is  by 
the  gate  of  Minakshi's  Temple,  through 
a  painted  corridor  about  30  ft.  long, 
which  is  called  the  Hall  of  the  Eight 
Lakshmis,  from  eight  statues  of  that 
goddess  which  form  the  supports  of 
the  roof  on  either  side,  where  various 
dealers  ply  their  trade.  On  the  right 
of  the  gateway  is  an  image  of  Subrah- 
manya,  one  of  Shiva's  sons,  otherwise 
called  Skanda  or  Earttikeya,  the  Hindu 
Mars.  On  the  left  is  an  image  of 
Ganesh.  The  gateway  leads  to  a  stone 
corridor  with  rows  of  pillars  on  either 
side.  The  corridor  before  passing  the 
gateway  is  called  the  As?Ua  Lakshmi 
Afandapam,  and  this  second  corridor 
the  Mimakshi  Nayakka  Maridapamj 
having  been  built  by  Minakshi  Nayak, 
Diwan  of  a  ruler  who  preceded  Tirumala. 
Some  of  the  pillars  of  the  temple  have 
for  capitals  the  curved  plantain-flower 
bracket  so  general  at  Ygayanagar. 
This  is  said  by  some  to  be  the  Hindu 
cornucopia.  At  the  end  of  one  of  the 
corridors,  166  ft.  long,  is  a  large  door 
of  brass,  which  has  stands  to  hold 
many  lamps  that  are  lighted  at  night. 
A  dark  corridor  under  a  small  gopura 
ends  in  one  broader,  with  more  light, 
which  has  three  figures  on*  either  side 
carved  with  spirit. 

Close  by  is  a  quadrangle  with  a  T&ppa 
KulcMn.  This  tank  is  called  Swama- 
piishpa-karini  or  Fatramaraij  "Tank 
of  the  Golden  Lilies."  Observe  here  a 
little  chamber  built  by  Queen  Man- 
sammal,  who  was  seized  and  starved  to 
death  by  her  subjects  about  1706  a.d., 
food  being  placed  so  near  that  she  could 
see  and  smell  but  not  touch  it  A 
statue  of  her  lover,  the  Brahman 
Achchaya,  may  be  seen  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  tank,  and  on  the  ceiling  there  is 
his  porti-ait  opposite  to  one  of  the  Queen. 
Bound  the  tank  runs  an  arcade.  On 
the  N.  and  E.  sides  the  walls  of  this 
oorridOT  are  painted  with  the  repre- 
sentations of  the  most  famous  pagodas 
in  India :  from  the  S.  side  a  very  good 
view  is  obtained  of  the  different  towers 
of  the  gopuras.  On  the  N.W.  side  is 
the  belfiy,  with  an  American  bell  of 
fine  tone.  The  corridor  is  adorned  with 
twelve  very  spirited  figiu-es,  which  form 
pillars  on  either  side,  six  of  them  being 


the  Yali,  a  name  given  to  a  strange 
monster  which  is  the  conventioni^  lion 
of  the  S.  Sometimes  he  is  represented 
with  a  long  snout  or  proboscis.  These 
are  so  arranged  that  between  every  two 
of  them  is  a  figure  of  one  of  the  five 
Pandu  brothers.  First  on  the  rijght  is 
Yudhishthir,  and  opposite  to  him  on 
the  left  is  Arjuna  with  his  famous  bow. 
Then  come  Sahadeva  on  the  right,  and 
Nakula  on  the  left  Then  follows 
Bhima  on  the  right  with  his  diib,  and 
opposite  to  him,  on  the  left,  is  the 
shrine  of  the  goddess,  and  the  figure  of 
a  DwarpaL  The  visitor  next  passes  N. 
from  the  Minakshi  Tenaple  into. that  of 
Suudareshwar,  by  the  Sangeli  Manda- 
pam.  Eight  steps  are  ascended  into 
the  AruvaUi  Murwr^  the  Temple  of  the 
Rishis,  a  small  chamber  on  the  S.  side 
of  Sundareshwar's  Temple,  in  which  are 
a  very  large  number  of  statues  of  Hindu 
saints  and  gods,  too  numerous  to  specify. 
S.E.  of  the  groups  of  statues  are  the 
chambers  where  the  Yahanas,  or  vehi- 
cles, of  Minakshi  and  Suudareshwar 
are  kept.  They  are  plated  with  gold. 
There  are  two  golden  paUds,  or  litters, 
worth  10,000.  rs.  each,  and  two  with 
rods  to  support  canopies,  worth  12,000  rs. 
each.  Tnere  are  also  vehicles  plated 
with  silver,  such  as  a  HansOf  or  "  goose," 
a  Nandi,  or  *  *  bull. "  Those  who  desire 
to  see  the  jewels  kept  here  must  give 
notice  a  day  or  two  previously. 

The  visitor  will  now  pass  on  the  N. 
side — the  most  interesting  feature  of 
the  temple — the  Sahasrastambha  Man- 
dapam^  or  Hall  of  1000  FillarB.  There 
are  in  fact  997,  but  manv  are  hid  from 
view,  as  the  intervals  between  them 
have  been  bricked  up  to  form  granaries 
for  the  pagoda.  ''  There  is  a  small  shrine 
dedicated  to  the  goddess  Minakshi  (the 
fish -eyed)  J  the  tutelary  deity  of  the 
place,  which  occupies  the  space  of  15 
columns,  so  the  real  number  is  only  985 ; 
but  it  is  not  their  niunber  but  their  , 
marveUous  elaboration  that  makes  it 
the  wonder  of  the  place,  and  makes  it 
in  some  respects  more  remarkable  t^an 
the  choultrie  (see  below)  about  which 
so  much  has  been  said  and  written" 
(Fergusson).  This  hall,  'whose  sculp- 
tures surpass  those  of  any  other  hall  of 
its  class,  was  built  b^  Arianayakkam 


BOUTS  32.      MADURA — ^TINNEVELLT 


i07 


Mudali,  Minister  of  the  Founder  of 
the  dynasty  of  the  Nayakkas.  His 
figure  stands  on  the  left  of  the  entrance. 
He  is  represented  sitting  gracefully  on 
a  rearing  horse.  In  the  row  behind 
hitn  are  some  spirited  figures  of  men 
and  women,  or  male  and  female  deities 
dancing.  The  Chreat  Ghpura  is  on  the 
E.  side  about  50  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the 
1000-pillare4  Hall. 

E.  of  the  pagoda  is  the  Pudu  Manda- 
pairiy  or  New  Gallery,  known  as  Tiru- 
mala's  Chonltrie,  and  built  by  him 
for  the  presiding  deity  of  the  place, 


AVgOk-'>'>1    V»nH  ■TOM 

*  e   ft*    p 


C T.W* »■ 


IS.O  - >; 


Plan  of  Tirumala's  Choultrie. 

Sundareshwar,  who  paid  him  a  visit  of 
10  days  annually.  This,  had  it  been 
finished,  woidd  have  surpassed  in  magni- 
ficence all  the  other  buildings  of  this 
monarch ;  and  as  the  date  of  its  con- 
struction is  known,  it  forms  a  fixed 


point  in  the  chronology  of  the  style. 
The  hall  has  four  rows  of  pillars  sup* 
porting  a  flat  roof,  and  on  eithet  sids 
of  the  centre  corridor  five  pillars  repre* 
sent  ten  of  the  Nayakkan  dynasty. 
Tirumala  is  distinguished  by  having  a 
canopy  over  him  and  two  figures  at 
his  back  ;  the  figure  on  the  left  being 
his  wife,  the  Princess  of  Tanjore.  On 
the  left  of  the  doorway  is  a  singular 
group,  representing  one  of  the  Nayaks 
shooting  a  wild  boar  and  sows,  accord- 
ing to  the  legend,  which  says  that 
Shiva  commiserated  the  litter  of  little 
pigs,  took  them  up  in  his  arms,  and 
assuming  the  shape  of  the  sow,  suckled 
them.  A  portly  figure,  either  that  of 
Shiva  or  the  Nayak,  is  seen  holding 
up  the  dozen  little  pigs.  This  Hall  was 
erected  1623-45,  and  is  said  to  have 
cost  a  million  sterling. 

3  m.  E.  of  the  station  and  N.  of  the 
Vaigai  river  is  a  fine  Teppa  Kulam.  The 
fashionable  drive  of  Madura  is  round 
this  tank,  which  is  fenced  with  stone, 
and  has  a  temple  in  the  centre. 

Great  Banyan  Tree. — In  the  com- 
pound of  the  judge's  house,  close  to  the 
tank,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Ficus 
indica.  The  main  stem  has  been  much 
mutilated,  but  is  still  70  ft.  in  circum- 
ference. The  ground  shaded  by  this 
tree  has  a  diameter  of  180  ft.  in  what- 
ever direction  it  is  measured. 

425  m.  Maniyachi  junc.  sta.  Here 
the  line  bifurcates  to  Tuticorin  (18  m.) 
and  Tinnevelly.  For  Tuticorin  see 
p.  371. 

443  m.  Tinnevelly  terminus  sta., 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tambrapurni 
river,  and  1^  m.  from  it.  It  is  2^  m. 
from  Palamcotta.  A  bridge  of  eleven 
arches  of  60  ft.  span  each,  erected  by 
Sulochenam  Mudeliar,  crosses  the  stream 
and  connects  the  two  places. 

Tinnevelly  is  now  the  most  Christian 
district  in  India.  The  S.P.G.  and  the 
C.M.S.,  estab.  1820,  bave  important 
and  flourishing  stations  here,  and  at 
Palamcotta,  3^  m.  distant,  as  have  also 
the  Jesuits.  It  was  here  that  St.  Francis 
Xavier  began  his  preaching  in  India. 

The  Temple  at  Tinnevelly,  though,  as 


408 


ROUTE  32.       MADRAS  TO  THE  SEVEN  PAGODAS 


India 


Fergussou  says  (pp.  366-7),  "neitlier 
among  the  largest  nor  the  most  splendid 
of  S.  India,  has  the  advantage  of  having 
been  built  on  one  plan,  and  at  one 
time,  Adthout  subsequent  alteration  or 
change."  It  is,  like  the  temple  at  Madura, 
divided  into  two  parts,  of  which  the 
S.  half  is  dedicated  to  Parbati,  the 
consort  of  Shiva,  and  the  N.  to  Shiva 
himself.  There  are  three  gateways,  or 
gopuras,  to  either  half,  those  on  tne  K 
bemg  the  principal,  and  having  porches 
outside  them.  After  entering,  you 
have  in  front  an  internal  porch  of  large 
dimensions,  on  the  right  of  which  is  a 
Teppa  Kuianif  and  on  the  left  a  1000- 
piUared  hall,  which  runs  nearly  the 
whole  breadth  of  the  enclosure,  and  is 
63  ft  broad.  There  are  100  rows  of 
pillars  10  deep.  The  sole  entrance  is 
on  the  £.  face.  The  temple  is  deserving 
of  a  visit,  and  can  easily  be  reached,  as 
Tinnevelly  is  but  little  out  of  the 
way  of  a  traveller  going  to  visit  Tuti- 
oorin. 

Palamcotta,  8i  m.  E.  of  Tinnevelly, 
is  a  municipal  town  and  the  adminis- 
trative headquarters,  with  a  pop.  of 
18,000,  of  whom  2000  are  Christians, 
and  is  within  an  easy  drive  from  Tinne- 
velly. The  old  fort  has  been  demol- 
ished. 

Between  the  bridge  over  the  Tambra- 
pumi  and  the  fort  stands  the  church 
of  the  C.M.S.,  the  spire  of  which  is 
110  ft.  high.  The  C.  M.  S.  have  several 
schools  here.  A  road  to  the  beautiful 
waterfalls  of  Kutallam  and  Papanasham 
passes  through  Palamcotta  and  Tin- 
nevelly. 

88  m.  N.W.  of  Tinnevelly  is  Kutal- 
lam, much  resorted  to  by  European 
residents.  It  is  not  elevated,  but  the 
S.W.  winds  pass  over  it  through  a 
chasm  in  the  W .  ghats,  and  bring  with 
them  coolness  and  moisture,  so  that  the 
temperature  of  this  favoured  spot  is  from 
10*'  to  15°  lower  than  that  of  the  arid 
plains  beyond.  •  The  place  is  pai*ticularly 
enjoyable  in  June,  July,  and  August, 
Close  to  the  bungalows  there  are  three 
falls  in  the  channel  of  the  Sylar  river. 
The  lowest  cataract  falls  from  a  height 
of  200  ft,,  but  is  broken  midway.     The 


average  temperatme  of  the  Avater 
is  from  72°  to  75"  F.,  and  invalids 
derive  gi-eat  benefit  from  bathing  in 
it.  The  bathing-place  is  under  a  fine 
shelving  rock,  which  affords  the  most 
delightral  shower-bath  possible.  The 
scenery  is  strikingly  picturesque,  being 
a  happy  mixture  oi  bold  rocks  and 
umbrageous  woods.  - 

From  Palamcotta  to  :^apanasham 
{Papa  "sin,"  nasham  "ejBfacing  ")  is  29 
m.     Here,  near  a  pagoda,  the  Tambra- 

Eumi  river  takes  its  last  fall  from  the 
ills  to  the  level  country.  The  height 
is  only  80  ft,  but  the  body  of  water  is 
greater  than  at  Kutallanu 


ROUTE  32 
Madras  to  the  Seven  Pagodas 

A  highly  interesting  expedition  from 
Madras  is  to  Mahabalipur,  D.  B.  {t?ie 
city  of  ffreat  Bali\  or  the  Seven 
Pagodas,  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
places  in  India. 

It  is  about  35  m.  S.,  6  of  which  can 
be  done  in  a  carriage  to  Guindy  Bridge, 
where  the  Buckingham  Canal  is  reached. 
A  boat  must  be  engaged  beforehand, 
at  a  cost  of  about  7  rs.  If  more  than 
one  person  is  going,  another  boat  must 
be  engaged  for  the  sei-vants.  The 
boatmen  tow  the  boat  or  scull  it  with 
a  large  stem-oar,  and  the  whole  distance 
is  done  in  from  twelve  to  fourteen 
hours.  The  journey  may  be  made  by 
night  both  ways,  as  the  accommodation 
at  Mahabalipur  is  not  very  good,  the 
D.B.  being  without  provisions.  The 
canal  goes  as  far   as    Sadras,  which 


ROUTE  32.       MAHABALIPUR 


409 


is  between  2  and  8  m.  S.  of  Maha- 
balipur.  On  the  left  bank  of  the 
canal,  to  the  E.  of  it,  and  between 
it  and  the  sea,  are  the  excavations 
and  carvings  in  the  rock  which  have 
rendered  the  place  so  famous.  Hunter 
says:  "Tlie  antiquities  of  the  place 
may  be  divided  into  three  groups  (1) 
the  five  roths  to  the  S.  of  the  village  ; 
(2)  the  cave-temples,  monolithic  figures, 
carvings,  and  sculptures  W.  oi  the 
village  ;  (3)  the  more  modern  temples 
of  Vishnu  and  Shiva,  the  latter  washed 
by  the  sea. "  To  these  two  temples  and 
five  others  buried  (according  to  tradi- 
tion) under  the  sea,  the  place  owes  its 
English  name. 

The  boat  should  stop  opposite  BaZi- 
pitharriy  a  small  village,  naving  the 
village  of  Saluvan  Kuppan,  or  "toddy- 
gatherers'^  village,"  about  IJ  m.  to 
the  N.,  where  is  the  curious  Tiger 
Cave,  and  the  large  village  of  Maha- 
balipur  to  the  S.  and  E.  The  dis- 
tance between  the  canal  and  the 
sea  is  1}  m.,  and  from  1  m.  S.  of 
Saluvan  Kuppan  to  4  m.  S.  of  it  there 
are  a  great  number  of  curious  excava- 
tions and  carvings.  After  landing 
opposite  Balipitham,  follow  the  road 
straight  for  about  J  m.,  when  you 
come  to  a  hamlet,  called  Pillaiyan 
Kovil,  where  is  a  group  of  monkeys, 
admirably  carved,  the  size  of  the  large 
baboon.  The  male  is  sitting  behind 
the  female,  and  is  busv  removmg 
vermin  from  her  hair.  Sne  sits  with 
her  back  to  him,  and  is  suckling  a 
young  one.  At  200  yds.  farther  on  a 
choultrie  is  passed — a  rest-house  for 
natives.  It  is  on  the  left  going  to- 
wards the  sea,  as  are  also  eight  stone 
figures,  at  about  30  yds.  from  it.  The 
centre  figure  represents  the  goddess 
Diirga,  with  her  right  leg  on  her  left 
knee,  and  four  female  attendants  on 
her  left  hand,  and  three  on  her  right 
hand.  10  yds.  in  front  of  this  group 
is  a  highly  polished  black  pillar,  4  ft. 
6  in.  high,  a  Lingam  vdtla.  the  curious 
cui-ved  mark,  ana  5  yds.  in  front  of  it 
is  a  Nandi,  or  Shiva's  bull,  fallen  on  its 
side.     After  this  you  enter  deep  sand, 

1  "Toddy"  is  the  fermejited  sap  of  the 
cocoa-nut  and  other  palm  trees,  used  as  an 
Intoxicant  by  the  natives. 


and  pass  a  good  many  huts  on  the 
right,  and  a  fishing  -  village  on  the 
left ;  and  so,  after  a  walk  of  in  all 
about  IJ  m.,  the  shore  temple  is 
reached.  It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  sea, 
and  is  dedicated,  first,  to  Maha  Bali 
Chakravartti,  and,  secondly,  to  Shiva. 
It  stands  in  an  enclosure,  which  was 
at  one  time  surrounded  by  a  granite 
wall,  but  now  only  debris  remam  and 
two  uprights  where  the  gate  was.  The 
porch  or  outer  room  on  the  N.  side 
has  a  large  slab  in  the  centre  of  the 
wall  opposite  the  door,  with  Shiva  and 
Parbati  in  alto-relievo  upon  it.  In  the 
centre  of  the  E.  wall  is  a  figure  with 
eight  arms,  which  the  guides  say  is  an 
attendant  on  Bali.  In  the  inner  part 
is  a  fallen  Lingam.  On  the  slab 
facing  the  door  Shiva  and  Parbati  are 
represented  in  alto-relievo.  This  cham- 
ber is  17  ft.  high,  and  9  fL  sq.  The 
E.  portal  of  the  temple  is  on  the  brink 
of  the  surf,  and  about  10  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  right  in  front,  on  a  rock  75  ft. 
distant,  is  the  Dhwaja  stamhhay  "flag- 
pillar,  "  or  Dipa  stamhha,  *  *  lamp  pillar, " 
of  granite,  and  now  only  18  ft.  high, 
but  which,  before  it  was  broken,  was 
probably  35  ft.  high.  It  is  difficult 
to  reach  this  pillar,  even  in  calm 
weather.  In  a  vestibule  at  the  W. 
side  of  the  temple  is  a  recumbent 
figure  of  Vishnu,  10  ft.  10  in.  long. 
Trie  guides  say  it  is  Bali.  They  also 
affirm  that  5  m.  to  the  E.,  in  the  sea, 
are  ruined  temples.^    The  fact  is,  there 

1  Fergusson,  in  his  Picturesque  Illustra- 
tions of  Ancient  Architecture  in  Hindustan, 
p.  57,  quotes  from  Southey's  "Curse  of 
Eehama"  the  lines : 

"  The  sepulchres 
Of  ancient  kings,  which  Bali  In  his  power 
Made  in  primeval  times,  and  built  above 

them 
A  city  like  the  cities  of  the  gods- 
Being  like  a  god  himself.    For  many  an  age 
Hath  Ocean  warred  against  his  palaces, 
Till  overwhelmed  beneath  the  waves — 
Not  overthrown— so  well  the  awful  chief 
Had  laid  their  deep  foundations. 

Their  golden  summits  in  the  noonday  light 
Shone  o'er  the  dark  green  deep  that  rolled 

between ; 
Her  domes  and  pinnacles  and  spires  were  seen 
Peering  above  the  sea,  a  mournful  sight. 
And  on  the  sandy  shore,  beside  the  verge 
Of  Ocean,  here  and  there  a  rock-cut  fane 


410 


ROUTE  32.       MADRAS  TO  THE  SEVEN  FAOODAS 


Indk 


$ie  heavy  breakers  about  1  m.  or  so 
out,  where  there  is  a  reef  of  rocks. 

At  about  300  yds.  N.  of  the  temple  is 
a  fishing-viUace  called  Karmiguriam- 
man  Kovil,  vmere  are  the  ruins  of  a 
brick  building,  said  to  have  been  a 
French  church.  S.  of  the  temple,  at 
the  distance  of  200  yds.,  is  a  ruined 
panite  building,  called  Chetti's  Temple. 
Leaving  the  shore  temple,  the  traveller 
wUl  find  600  yds.  due  W.  a  plain 
mandapam  of  Vishnu.  12  yds.  S.  of 
it  is  a  fine  tank,  with  steps  down 
to  the  water  all  round.  There  is  a 
small  mandanam  in  the  centre  of  the 
tank,  called  Niralji  MaTidapam  (water 
pavilion).  Near  the  tank  are  many 
trees,  and  quite  a  village  of  Brahman 
houses.  Passing  these  you  come  to  the 
great  sculptured  rock  called  Arjuna's 
Penance,  and  as  the  morning  sun 
will  now  be  getting  very  hot,  it  will 
be  well  to  turn  to  the  N.W.,  where  a 
sheltered  monolithic  temple  will  be 
found,  open  to  the  front,  called  Vara- 
haawami  Mandapamj  or  *'My  Lord 
Boar's  Temple,"  from  the  representa- 
tion of  Yisnnu  in  the  boar  incarnation 
with  the  head  of  a  boar.  Here  it  will 
be  well  to  breakfast,  sheltered  from  the 
sun,  and  rest  till  towards  evening. 
There  are  retiring -places  among  the 
rocks  where  one  can  bathe  without 
being  seen,  but  it  will  be  well  to  take 
a  few  pardahSj  or  tent -screens,  for 
greater  privacy  and  comfort.  The 
absence  of  insects,  especially  flies,  is 
very  remarkable  here  in  the  cold 
weather.  The  Varahaswami  Manda- 
pam is  I  m.  S.  of  Balipitham,  where 
the  traveller  leaves  the  canal.  The 
fa9ade  of  the  mandapam  is  supported 
by  two  pillars  and  two  pilasters,  the 
bases  of  which  are  carved  to  represent 
the  Simha,  or  Southern  Lion,  a  mythi- 
cal animal,  not  at  all  like  a  real  lion. 
They  are  sedent,  and  their  tails  are 

Resisted,  in  its  strength,  the  surf  and  sorge 
That  on  their  deep  foundations  beat  in  vain.' 

The  same  authority  makes  this  temple  about 
80  ft.  sq.  in  thn  base,  and  about  twice  that  in 
height,  and  adds :  "Notwithstanding  its  small 
dimensions  it  is,  with  the  single  exception  of 
the  temple  at  Tanjore,  the  finest  and  most  im- 
portant vimanah  I  have  seen,  or  know  of,  in 
the  §,  of  JndiJ».' 


twisted  in  a  peculiar  manner,  like  tlu 
loop  of  k,     in  the  centre  of  the  vail, 
opposite  to  the  fii9ade,  is  a  small  alooTe, 
which  is  the  sanctum,  but  there  is  no 
idol  in  it.     On  either  side  is  a  dwaipl 
in  alto-relievo.     In  the  side  wall  to  the 
N.  is  a  representation  of  the  Yuab 
incarnation,  &ir!y  well  done,  but  nn- 
finished.     The  central  figure  is  Vishnu 
with  a  huge  boar's  head.     He  has  hia 
right  leg  bent  up,  and  restmg  on  a 
figure  issuing  apparently  from  wares. 
The  Shesh  IJag,  or  six-headed  serpent, 
overcanopies  the  figure,  which  has  the 
face  of  a  nandsome  youth,  whose  hands 
are  joined  in  prayer.     In  firont  of  him 
are  two  male  figures,   the  nearest  of 
which  is  praying  with  joined  hands  to 
Vishnu.     Vishnu  supports  on  his  right 
thigh  his  wife  Laknshml    Her  feet 
are  broken  off.     Near  him  is  a  wor- 
shipping figure  in  the  sky,  and  two 
tall  figures,  one  of  whom  holds  a  water- 
pot  for  ablutions.     The  time  is  sap- 
posed  to  be  that  when  Vishnu  slew 
the  giant  Hiranyakah,  ^'golden  eye," 
who  liad  carried  off  the  earth  into  the 
infinite  abyss.     Vishnu,  with  the  head 
of  a  boar,  pursued  and  slew  him,  and 
brought  back  the  earth.     On  the  oppos- 
ite side  wall,  to  the  S. ,  is  a  very  spirited 
representation  of  the  FamajiahAvaiara, 
or  dwarf  incarnation,  in  alto-relievo. 
Vishnu,  dilated   to  an  immense  size, 
places  one  foot  on  the  earth,  and  hits 
another  to  the  sky.     The  god  has  eifht 
arms,  with  which  he  hol£  a  sworo,  t 
quoit,  a  shield,   a  bow,  and  a  lotus, 
and  with  a  sixth  he  points.    The  other 
two  are  indistinct.      Worshippers  or  \ 
attendants  are  at  his  feet,  and  other 
figures  appear  in  the  skies.    One  to  the 
W.  has  the  head  of  a  dog.    The  legend, 
is  that  when  Bali  was  tyrannising  orel 
the  earth,  Vishnu  approached  hnn  il 
the  shape  of  a  dwarf,  and  asked  for  s 
much  earth  as  he  could  plant  his  fee 
upon.      Bali  granted  this  modest  r» 
quest,    whereupon   Vishnu  dilated  t 
immense  proportions  and  planted  on 
foot  on  eartn,  one  on  the  skyi  ^ 
with    a    third  thrust  Bali  down  to 
hell.     Tlie  capitals  of  the  pillars  ii 
the  fagade  are  very  elegant    In  tin 
wall  in  which  is  the  alcove  are  t« 
compartments  j    i»    the    one  to  m 


412 


ROUTE  32.       HADBAS    TO    THE    SEVEN    PAGODAS 


India 


your  left  is  a  relief  representing  Vishnu 
recumbent  The  platform  of  tiie  upper 
temple  is  56  ft.  above  that  of  Durga's, 
and  very  difficult  of  access,  but  the 
guides  spring  up  the  slippery  rook  with 
wonderml  agility.  A  most  complete 
and  valuable  account  of  these  excava- 
tions will  be  found  in  the  work  entitled 
Descriptive  and  JSistoriccU  Papers  re- 
lating to  the  Seven  Pagodas  on  the 
Coromandel  Coast,  by  W.  Chambers, 
J.  Goldingham,  B.  G.  Babington, 
F.A.S.,  the  Rev.  Q.  W.  Mahon,  Lieut. 
J.  Braddock,  the  Rev.  W.  Taylor,  Sir 
Walter  Elliot,  and  G.  Gubbins,  edited 
by  Capt  M.  W.  Carr ;  printed  for  the 
Giovemment  of  Madras,  at  the  Foster 
Press,  23  Rundall's  Road,  Vepery,  1869. 
The  age  of  these  sculptures  has  never 
been  definitely  ascertained.  No  date 
has  been  found  in  any  of  the  inscrip- 
tions. Mr.  Fergusson,  Hist,  of  AnJt, 
vol  ii  p.  502,  says  the  Raths  were 


"carved  by  the  Hindus,  probaUy 
about  1300  A.D."  Sir  W.  Elliot  fixei 
the  era  of  the  oldest  Tamil  inscriptioi 
on  the  rocks  of  MahabaUpur  at  the 
latter  part  of  the  11th  century,  and 
that  of  the  rook  inscription  at  Salavu 
Euppan  at  the  beginning  of  the  12th 
century.  The  Sanscrit  inscriptions  an 
of  earlier  date.  Sir  W.  Elliot  thinks 
that  they  could  not  have  been  kter 
than  the  6th  century.  Mr.  Fergngson 
says:  "Although  these  Ratl^  are 
comparatively  modem  and  belong  to  i 
different  faith,  they  certainly  constitato 
the  best  representations  now  known  of 
the  forms  of  the  Buddhist  bmldings." 
A  copy  and  translation  of  the  Sanscrit 
inscriptions  by  Dr.  Arthur  Bnmell 
will  oe  found  m  the  Appendix  of  the 
work  referred  to  above. 

Sadrafl,  an  old  Dutch  settlemrat,  ii 
3  m.  farther  to  the  S.  by  the  canal,  bat 
is  hardly  worth  a  visit. 


BUEMA 


INTEODUCTION 


^flon. — The  Province  of  Burma  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  Bay  of 

">8  a  range  of  Country  stretching  from  the  ,10th  to,  roughly 

^ish  parallel  of  latitude.     It  is  hounded  on  the  N.  and  N.£. 

tOie  N.W.  by  Bengal,  Assam,  and  the  feudatory  State  of 

ithe  W.  and  S.W.  by  the  sea.    To  the  S.E.  lies  the  kingdom 

j»tal  area,  excluding  the  Shan  States,  is  about  171,430  sq.  m., 

^on,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  was  7,605,560.     The 

feed  by  five  great  streams,  viz.  the  Irrcmadd/y^  the  ChmdAJoin^ 

\  Salween  and  the  Myitnge,     The  first  two  rivers  have  their 

in  the  northern  chain  of  mountains  in  the  interior,  one 

I  the  Irrawaddy  probably  coming  from  Tibet,  where  are  also 

be  Salween  ;  the  Sittang  rises  in  the  hills  S.E.  of  Mandalay, 

I  drains  the  Shan  States  to  the  E.  of  that  city.     The  Irra- 

Salween  are  fine  rivers  which,  in  the  lower  part  of  their 

'  the  flat  country  below  their  banks,  during  the  rainy  season, 

find  their  way  through  magnificent  defiles.     The  Irrawaddy 

r  over  900  m.,  but  the  Salween  is  practically  useless  as  a  means 

aon,  owing  to  ihe  trequent  obstacles  in  its  channel. 

I  portion  of  the  province  is  in  the  main  an  upland  territory 

bch  rolling  country,  intersected  by  occasional  hill  ranges,  and 

olated  tracts  of  alluvial  plain.     The  country  throughout  the 

lid  uninteresting.     Towards  Prome  the  valley  of  the  Irrawaddy 

t  the  monotony  of  the  plain  is  diversified  by  a  wooded  range  of 

;oling  to  the  western  bank  nearly  all  the  way  to  the  frontier. 

/^  valley  contains  occasional  harmonies  of  forest,  crag,  and  moun- 

l£^*  On  the  other  hand,  the  scenery  in  Tavoy  and  Mergui,  and  among 

1^"^ islets  which  fringe  the  Tenasserim  coast,  is  almost  English  in  its 

1  repose.     The  forests  of  Burma  abound  in  fine  trees.     Among 

-liolds  a  conspicuous  place.     Almost  every  description  of  timber 

Undia  is  produced  in  the  forests,  from  which  also  an  abundant 

lltained  of  the  varnish  used  by  the  Burmese  in  the  manufacture  of 

Ware.     Sticklac  of  an  excellent  quality  is  obtained  in  the  woods, 

h  has  of  late  years  been  largely  exported.      A  marked  feature 

■n  during  the  rains  ia  the  number  of  beautiful  flowering  trees. 


414  BURMA  In^ 

Although  there  is  plenty  of  large  game  in  the  country,  it  is  not  easy  to  get 
at  owing  to  the  dense  forests,  and  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  experienced 
shikaris  and  baggage-animals  ;  but  good  bags  of  snipe  are  made  all  oyer  tiie 
country  froib  August  to  December,  and  good  jungle  fowl  and  duck  shooting 
is  to  be  had  without  difficulty  in  many  parts  of  the  province. 

Burma  is  fairly  rich  in  minerals.  Gold,  silver,  and  other  valuable  netili 
have  been  found  in  small  quantities  in  various  parts  :  fine  marble  is  fotmd 
near  Mandalay  ;  coal  of  fSJr  quality  has  recently  been  discovered  in  sevenl 
parts  of  Upper  Burma.  Mc^k  supplies  the  world  with  rubies ;  and  sappliira 
are  found  there,  and  in  the  Shan  States.  Petroleum  is  obtained  in  laijp 
quantities  at  Yenangyoung  in  Upper  Burma,  and  in  smaller  quantities  io 
Arrakan  and  elsewhere.  Jade  and  amber  are  extracted  in  considerable 
quantities  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Bhamo  district.  In  Lower  Bamu 
agriculture  is  the  main  employment  of  the  people.  Cotton,  sesamum,  sad 
tobacco  are  extensively  grown,  and  orchards  are  found  near  every  village, 
b«t  rice  covers  about  five-sixths  of  the  total  area  under  cultivation.  The  eoil 
is  lavish  in  its  yield,  requires  little  labour  and  no  artificial*  stimulus  beyoad 
the  ash  of  the  past  year's  stubble,  which  is  burned  down  and  worked  into  the 
land.  Upper  Burma,  though  inferior  in  point  of  fertility  to  the  low4yiog 
tracts  of  Lower  Burma,  is  far  from  unproductive.  The  chief  crops  are  rice, 
maize,  millet,  wheat,  pulses,  tobacco,  cotton,  and  sesamum. 

The  commeroial  prosperity  of  Lower  Burma  has  more  than  kept  pace  with 
its  rapidly  increasing  population.  The  chief  articles  exported  are  rice, 
timber,  cutch,  hides,  petroleum,  and  precious  stones.  The  chief  imports  ue 
piece  goods,  silk,  cotton,  and  wool,  liquors,  tobacco,  iron,  and  sugar. 

The  main  commercial  industries  are  those  connected  with  the  rice  and 
timber  trade.  The  indigenous  manufactures  of  the  country  produce  little 
beyond  what  is  required  for  home  consumption.  Silk,  lacquered  ware,  gold 
and  silver  work,  wood  and  ivo^  carving,  are  among  the  most  justly  admired 
of  Burmese  handicrafts.  The  best  silks  are  woven  at  Mandalay;  the  principil 
lacquer- workers  are  at  Nyaungu,  near  Pagan  ;  gold  and  silver  work  is  carried 
on  at  Rangoon,  Moulmein,  Thayetmyo,  Mandalay,  and  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent  in  all  the  larger  towns ;  the  best  wood-carvers  are  in  Rangoon  and 
Mandalay,  and  the  most  expert  ivory-carver  is  at  Moulmein.  The  character- 
istics of  Burmese  art  are  vigour  and  novelty  in  design,  but  want  of  delicacy 
and  finish  in  execution. 

Should  Burma  be  visited  after  a  tour  in  India,  the  traveller  cannot  M 
to  be  struck  with  the  great  difference  in  the  people  and  the  scenery  of  the 
two  countries.  The  merry,  indolent,  brightly -clothed  Burmese  have  bo 
counterpart  in  Hindustan,  and  the  richness  of  the  soil  and  exuberance  of 
the  vegetation  will  be  at  once  remarked.  The  life  of  the  natives  is  free  from 
the  deadening  effects  of  caste  and  seclusion  of  the  women — two  custois 
which  stereotype  the  existence  of  so  large  a  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  India, 
The  Burmese,  as  a  race,  are  of  short  stature  and  thick-set.  The  men  weir 
long  hair  on  their  heads,  but  have  little  or  none  on  their  faces :  flit  ii 
feature,  they  show  unmistakably  their  near  relationship  to  the  Chinese.  The 
vomen  are  well  treated  and  attractive-looking ;  they  go  to  msrket,  keep 


INTEODUCMON  416 

shops,  and  take  their  fhll  share  in  social  and  domestic  affairs.    Men  and 
women  alike  are  well  clad,  and  delight  in  gay  colours  and  silk  attire. 

In  religion  the  Burmese  are  Buddhists,  and  every  Burman  is  supposed 
to  spend  a  certain  part  of  his  life  as  a  pongyi  or  monk,  whether  he  adopts 
the  sacred  calling  ultimately  as  his  career  or  not.  The  monks  are  the 
schoolmasters  of  the  country,  and  perform  this  duty  in  return  for  the  sup- 
port they  receive  from  the  people.  The  shaven  head  and  yellow  robe  of 
the  monk  are  a  common  sight  in  all  Burmese  villages  and  towns. 

History. — The  earliest  European  connection  with  Burma  was  in  1519, 
when  the  Portuguese  concluded  a  treaty  with  the  King  of  Pegu,  and  estab- 
lished factories  at  Martaban  and  Syriam.  Towards  the  close  of  the  16th 
cent,  the  Dutch  obtained  possession  of  the  island  of  Negrais,  and  about  the 
year  1612  the  English  East  India  Company  had  agents  and  factories  at 
Syriam,  Prome,  Ava,  and  perhaps  Bhamo.  About  the  middle  of  the  17th 
cent,  all  European  merchants  were  expelled  from  the  country,  owing  to  a 
dispute  between  the  Burmese  Governor  of  Pegu  and  the  Dutch.  The  Dtitch 
never  returned.  In  1688  the  Burmese  Governor  of  Syriam  wrote  to  the 
English  Governor  of  Madras  iuviting  British  merchants  to  settle  in  Pegu,  and 
in  1698  a  commercial  Resident  was  sent  to  Syriam,  and  a  factory  was  built 
there,  and  others  at  Negrais  and  Bassein.  The  French  also  had  a  settlement 
at  Syriam.  Meanwhile  the  Burmese  dynasty  of  Ava  was  destroyed  by  the 
rebellion  of  the  Talaing  kingdom  of  Pegu,  and  the  Takings  held  sway  in 
Burma  till  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent.,  when  Alompra,  the  founder  of  the 
dynasty  which  till  recently  reigned  in  Upper  Burma,  succeeded  in  uniting 
his  countrymen,  the  Burmese,  and  crushing  the  Takings.  In  1756  Alompra 
founded  Rangoon  to  celebrate  his  conquest  of  the  Takings,  and  destroyed 
Syriam.  After  Alompra*s  success  he  found  that  the  French  merchants  had 
been  supplying  warlike  stores  to  the  Takings,  and  he  put  all  Frenchmen  to 
death.  The  English,  who  had  generally  supported  the  Burmese,  were  granted 
the  island  of  Negrais  and  a  factory  at  Bassein.  In  1759,  however,  they  were 
suspected  of  assisting  rebels,  so  their  factories  were  destroyed,  and  10  English- 
men and  100  natives  of  India  were  murdered.  In  the  following  year  Alompra 
died  while  kying  siege  to  Ayuthia,  the  capital  of  Siam,  and  the  English 
obtained  permission  from  his  successor,  Naungdawgyi,  to  re-establish  the 
Bassein^  factory.  Sinbyushin,  who  succeeded  Naungdawgyi,  took  Manipur 
and  Siam,  and  defeated  two  inroads  from  China.  He  died  in  1776,  and  was 
succeeded  by^  Bodawpaya,  who  conquered  Arrakan  in  1784.  This  brought 
Burma  into  collision  with  the  British  in  Chittagong.  The  Arrakanese 
outlaws  took  refuge  over  the  border,  and  harassed  the  Burmese  rulers  by 
inroads  from  British  territory.  This  gave  rise  to  friction,  and  in  order  to 
assist  in  the  adjustment  of  matters  in  dispute,  an  envoy  was  sent  to  Burma 
in  1795  by  the  Governor- General  of  India.  In  1819  Bodawpaya  died,  and 
was  succeeded  by  Bagyidaw.  Matters  had  not  improved  on  the  border,  and 
in  1824  the  Burmese  invaded  Manipur  and  Assam,  and  Maha  Bandula,  the 
great  Burmese  general,  started  with  an  army  from  Ava  to  take  command  in 
Arrakan  and  invade  Bengal. 

The  British  Government  formally  declared  war  against  Burma  on  March 


416  BUBHA  India 

5,  1824.  The  Burmese  were  driven  out  of  Assam,  Eachar,  and  Manipor; 
and  Rangoon,  Hergui,  Tavoy,  and  Martaban  were  occupied  by  Britisli  tiooi& 
The  troops  suffered  much  from  sickness  as  soon  as  the  rains  began;  all 
movements  by  land  became  impracticable,  and  by  December  the  force  occupy- 
ing Rangoon  had  been  reduced  by  sickness  and  otherwise  to  about  1300 
Europeans  and  2500  natives  fit  for  duty.  The  Burmese,  under  Maha  Bandula, 
made  a  determined  effort  to  drive  the  invaders  into  the  sea  ;  but  their  attack, 
in  which  60,000  men  are  said  to  have  taken  part,  was  repulsed  with  great 
slaughter,  and  the  Burmese  army  dwindled  away,  a  portion  of  it  retiring  to 
Donabyu,  which  Maha  Bandula  fortified  with  some  skill  for  a  further  effort 
The  British  troops,  having  been  reinforced,  marched  up  the  IrrawaJdy 
valley,  and  on  April  2,  1825,  took  Donabyu.  Maha  Bandula  was  killed  in 
the  cannonade,  and  with  him  all  serious  resistance  came  to  an  end.  Prome 
was  occupied,  and  the  troops  went  into  cantonment  for  the  rains.  In 
September  1825  the  Burmese  endeavoured  to  treat,  but  as  they  would  not 
agree  to  the  terms  offered,  hostilities  recommenced ;  and  in  December  the 
British  advanced,  and,  after  several  actions  with  the  Burmese  troops,  reached 
Yandaboo,  Feb.  16,  1826.  Here  the  envoys  of  the  king  signed  a  treatr 
ceding  to  the  British  Assam,  Arrakan,  and  the  coast  of  Tenasserim,  and 
agreeing  to  pay  a  million  sterling  towards  the  cost  of  the  war.  In  November 
1825  a  commercial  treaty  was  signed  at  Ava,  and  in  1830  the  first  Brituh 
Resident  was  appointed  under  the  treaty  to  the  Burmese  capital.  In  1837 
Bagyidaw  was  deposed  by  his  brother  Tharrawaddy,  who  in  1846  was  sne- 
ceeded  by  his  brother  Pagan  Min. 

In  1852,  owing  to  a  succession  of  outrages  committed  on  Britisb 
subjects  by  the  Burmese  Governor  of  Rangoon,  for  which  all  reparation  v» 
refiised,  the  British  again  declared  war  against  the  King  of  Burma;  and 
towards  the  close  of  the  same  year  Lord  Dalhousie  proclaimed  that  the  whok 
of  the  province  of  Pegu,  as  far  N.  as  the  parallel  of  latitude  6  m.  N.  of  the 
fort  at  Myede,  was  annexed  to  the  British  Empire.  Almost  immediatelf 
after  this  Pagan  Min  was  deposed  by  his  brother  Mindon  Min,  who  ruled  liii 
curtailed  kingdom  with  wisdom  and  success. 

The  pacification  of  Pegu  and  its  reduction  to  order  occupied  about  ten 
years  of  constant  work.  In  1862  Her  Majesty's  possessions  in  Bunni- 
namely,  the  provinces  of  Arrakan,  Pegu,  Martaban,  and  Tenasserim— wen 
amalgamated,  and  formed  into  the  Province  of  British  Burma,  under  the 
administration  of  a  Chief-Commissioner,  Lieut. -Col.  (afterwards  Sir  Arthnr) 
Phayre  being  appointed  to  that  office. 

In  October  1878  King  Mindon  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  King 
Thebaw.  Early  in  1879  the  execution  of  a  number  of  members  of  the  Bojil 
family  at  Mandalay  excited  much  horror  in  Lower  Burma,  and  relation 
became  much  strained  owing  to  the  indignation  of  Knglishmea  at  tlie 
barbarities  of  the  Burmese  Court,  and  the  resentment  of  the  king  and  ha 
ministers  at  the  attitude  of  the  British  Resident.  In  October  1879,  owing  to 
the  unsatisfactory  position  of  the  British  Resident  in  Mandalay,  the  Govern- 
ment of  India  withdrew  their  representative  from  the  Burmese  Conrt 
'"         '  '^e,  under  the  lax  rule  of  Thebaw  the  condition  of  Upper  Borffli 


Cfjyaght 


Jillw Tl-trtlujloniBir*  Co..MW 


t 


rNTRODUCTION  417 

Jiad  been  gnidnally  drifting  from  bad  to  worse.    The  Central  Qoyemment 

lost  control  of  many  of  the  outlying  districts,  and  the  elements  of  disorder 

m  the  British  frontier  were  a  standing  menace  to  the  peace  of  Lower  Burma. 

Ilhe  king,  in  contravention  of  treaty  obligations,  created  monoplies  to  the 

detriment  of  the  trade  of  both  England  and  Burma,  and,  while  the  Indian 

Government  was  unrepresented  at  Mandalay,  representatives  of  France  and 

Italy  were  welcomed,  and  two  separate  embassies  were  sent  to  Europe  for  the 

(Nirpose  of  contracting  alliances  with  sundry  continental  powers.   Matters  were 

brought  to  a  crisis  in  1885,  when  the  Burmese  Court  imposed  a  fine  of  £230,000 

ipon  the  Bombay  Burma  Trading  Corporation,  and  refused  the  proposal  of 

;he  Indian  €U)vemment  to  submit  the  matter  to  arbitration.     In  view  of  the 

.ong  series  of  unsatisfactory  ^isodes  in  the  British  relations  with  Burma 

during  Thebaw's  reign,  the  Government  of  India  decided  once  for  all  to 

idjnst  the  relations  between  the  two  countries.    An  ultimatum  was  sent  to 

^ing  Thebaw,  requiring  him  to  suspend  action  against  the  Corporation ;  to 

eceive  at  Mandalay  an  envoy  from  the  Viceroy,  who  should  be  treated  with 

ihe  respect  due  to  the  Government  which  he  represented  ;  and  to  regulate  the 

ixtemal  relations  of  the  country  in  accordance  with  the  advice  of  the  Govern- 

ftent  of  India.     This  ultimatum  was  despatched  on  Oct  22, 1885.     On  Nov. 

I  a  reply  was  received  in  Rangoon,  amounting  to  an  unconditional  refusal  of 

he  terms  laid  down.     On  Nov.  7  King  Thebaw  issued  a  proclamation  calling 

&  his  subjects  to  drive  the  British  heretics  into  the  sea.     On  Nov.  14;  1885, 

be  British  expedition  crossed  the  firpntier,  and  advanced  to  Mandalay  with- 

at  encountering  any  serious  resistance.     On  Nov.  28  the  British  occupied 

Eandalay,  and  next  day  King  Thebaw  was  sent  down  to  Rangoon,  whence 

•  was  afterwards  transferred  to  India.     Upper  Burma  was  formally  annexed 

%  Jan.  1,  1886,  and  the  work  of  restoring  the  country  to  order  and  int^o- 

•eing  settled  government  commeYiced.     For  some  years  the  country  was 

sturbed  by  the  lawless  spirits  who  had  been  multiplying  under  the  lata 

gime,  but  by  the  close  of  1889  all  the  larger  bands  of  marauders  had  been 

Dken  up,  and  since  1890  the  country  has  enjoyed  greater  freedom  from 

hues  of  violence  than  the  province  formerly  known  as  British  Burma.     In 

•  time  of  Burmese  rule  China  claimed  a  certain  shadowy  suzerainty  over 

«  Burmese  empire.      In  July  1886  a  convention  was  signed  at  Pekin, 

liereby  China  recognised  British  rule  in  Burma,  and  agreed  to  the  demarca- 

n  of  the  frontier  and  the  encouragement  of  international  trade.     By  a 

rther  treaty,  signed  in  1894,  the  frontier  has  been  defined,  and  further 

fangements  made  for  the  encouragement  of  trade,  and  the  linking  of  the 

iegraph  systems  of  Burma  and  China.     In  1897  the  Province  was  con- 

jtnted  a  Lieutenant-Governorship  under  SiriFrederick  Fryer. 

The  census  of  1891  showed  that  in  Lower  Burma  population  had  increased 

ling  the  past  decade  at  the  rate  of  2*39  per  cent  per  annum.     The  trade 

(the  province  has  greatly  increased  under  British  rule.     The  standard  of 

tng  among  the   agricultural  classes  has  improved,   and  large  areas  of 

Itivable  land  still  exist,  and  in  most  districts  may  be  had  for  the  asking. 

Climate,  etc. — The  climate  of  the  province,  for  some  distance  from  the 

it,  consists  of  a  wet  season  from  May  15  to  November  16,  and  a  dry  ( 

[India]  2  E 


418  BURMA  IfldiA 

for  the  rest  of  the  year.  Farther  inland  the  rain  becomes  less  ;  but,  as  Burma 
muflt  at  present  be  reached  from  the  sea,  the  best  time  for  visiting  the  pro* 
yinoe  is  from  November  until  Febmary.  During  the  wet  season  the  raiDfall 
at  Rangoon  is  heavy — ^amoonting  to  upwards  of  90  in.,  and  after  Febraaiy 
the  heat  is  considerable  till  the  first  refreshing  showers  fall  in  May. 

Moans  of  Aooesi.— The  quickest  route  to  Burma  is  by  Brindisi  and  Port 
Said  to  Bombay,  rail  to  Madras,  and  thence  steamer  to  Rangoon.  A  favomite 
route  is  by  the  Bibby  line,  which  despatches  steamers  to  Rangoon  from  liveipool 
and  London  every  three  weeks.  The  steamers  are  large  and  well  found  in  every 
respect,  and  perfonn  the  journey  from  Liverpool  to  Rangoon  in  about  27  dajs. 
They  call  at  Marseilles  and  Colombo,  and  if  the  traveller  proceeds  to  MarseillBs 
by  train  he  can  complete  the  journey  to  Rangoon  in  22  days.  Rangoon  can 
also  be  reached  from  Calcutta,  Madras,  or  Singapore,  by  the  steamers  of  the 
British  India  Steam  Navigation  Co.  The  voyage  from  Calcutta  or  Madras 
occupies  4  days ;  that  from  Singapore  7  days.  The  steamers  from  Galcatta 
to  Rangoon  start  twice  a  week ;  those  from  Madras  once  a  week ;  and  thoae 
from  Singapore  once  a  week.  The  days  of  starting  vary  at  different  seasons 
of  the  year. 

Ckneral  Hints. — Burma  has  hitherto  been  little  visited  by  tonrists.  The 
hotels  are  indifferent,  and  in  many  places  non-existent ;  there  are  no  competent 
guides,  and  travelling  arrangements,  except  on  the  railway  and  by  a  few  main 
lines,  of  steamer,  communication,  are  primitive.  Hence  the  traveller  will  do 
well  to  provide  himself,  if  possible,  with  letters  of  introduction.  Armed 
with  these  he .  will  find  his  difficulties  reduced.  Without  them  he  will  find 
it  difficult  to  see  much  of  the  country,  or  even  of  the  larger  towns, 
de  wicU  do  well  to  provide  himself  with  some  books  about  Burma.  Of 
recent  books  the  best  is  undoubtedly  The  Bwmum,  His  Life  cund  Notions, 
by  Shway  Yoe  (J.  G.  Scott),  published 'by  MacmiUan  in  1882.  But  this 
is  unfortunately  out  of  print,  as  is  also  Yule's  .Embassy  to  Ava  (Smith, 
Slder,  1858),  a  work  which  will  be  found  very  useful  if  the  traveUer  can 
obtain  a  copy  of  it.  Captain  Forbes'  Burma  (Murray)  is  also  a  useful 
book,  and  Bishop  Bigandefs  Lege/nd  of  Qcmdomva  (Trnbner),  is  invaluable  for 
students  of  Burmese  Buddhism.  Under  ^  Shadow  of  the  Pagoda^  by  Mr. 
Cumming,  contains  some  capital  sketches  of  Burma  and  the  Burmese.  For 
more  detailed  information  reference  may  be  made  to  Colonel  Spearman's 
Gazetteer  of  British  Burma  (Oovemment  Press,  Rangoon),  also  unfortunately 
out  of  print,  and  to  the  Administration  Report  of  the  Promice  for  1892-93, 
and  the  Bv/rma  Census  Beport  issued  by  the  Burma  Administration  in  1892. 
Notes  of  a  Tov/r  in  Burma,  by  Dr.  Oertel  (Government  Press,  Rangoon  1893) 
will  be  of  interest,  especially  to  the  archaeologist,  and  contains  a  number  of 
photographs  of  various  parts  of  Burma.  For  historical  information  the 
traveller  should  obtain  Pha/yre*s  History  (Triibner).  Free  use  has  been  made 
of  several  of  the  above  works,  and  especially  of  Shway  Yoe,  in  the  following 
pages. 

Pagodas  and  Monasteries. — The  pagodas  and  monasteries  form  the  chief 
objects  of  interest  throughout  Burma,  and  as  they  are  mostly  built  on  veiy 
similar  plans  a  general  description  of  these  two  classes  of  religious  buildinnpi 


INTRODUOTION  419 

will  be  usefal.  The  following  description  is  taken  in  the  main  from  Shway 
Toe.  The  Fagodaa,  while  differing  in  various  minor  details,  consist  almost 
invariably  of  a  solid  pjrramidal  cone  rising  with  a  gradually  diminishing 
rounded  outline,  surmounted  by  a  ti  or  ''umbrella"  spire,  a  construction 
formed  of  concentric  rings  of  beaten  iron  lesseninjg  to  a  rod  with  a  small 
vane  on  the  top.  From  the  rings  hang  little  bells  with  flat  elongated  clappers, 
which,  are  caught  by  the  wind  and  maintain  day  and  night  a  melodious  ringing. 
They  are  usually  built  upon  more  or  less  elevated  platforms,  and  are  erected 
over  relics  of  Gaudama.  In  almost  all  the  larger  pagodas  there  are  arched 
wings  on  each  face  serving,  as  it  were,  as  antechapels,  and  each  containing 
a  figure  of  Gaudama,  whUe  the  surrounding  platform  is  frequently  studded 
with  minor  temples,  image  houses,  altars  for  the  deposit  of  offerings,  large 
bells,  flag-posts,  images  of  strange  monsters,  and  other  curious  objects.  These 
pagodas  are  to  be  found  in  every  vUlage  in  Burma ;  capping  the  hills  and 
frequently  ih  out-of-the-way  places,  contributing  everywhere  to  the  pictur- 
esqueness  of  the  country.  There  is  good  reason  for  this  multiplication  of 
fanes.  No  work  of  merit  is  so  highly  regarded  as  the  building  of  a  pagoda. 
The  builder  is  regarded  as  a  saint  on  earth,  and  when  he  dies  he  attains  the 
holy  rest.  It  avails  little  to  repair  a  previous  dedication,  unless  it  be  one 
of  the  great  world  shrines  at  Rangoon,  Pegu,  Prome,  or  Mandalay.  Hence 
old  pagodas  are  seldom  repaired,  but  new  ones  are  constantly  springing  up. 
Outside  every  village  in  Burma,  however  small,  there  stands  also  a  TxwnasUry 
or  pongyi  kyanmgt  where  the  monks  pass  their  tranquil  lives  and  supply  a 
simple  education  to  the  children  of  the  village.  Ordinarily  the  monastery 
is  built  of  teak,  but  in  many  places  brick  buildings  are  now  being  erected. 
The  shape  is  always  oblong,  and  the  inhabited  portion  is  raised  on  posts  or 
pillars  some  8  or  10  ft.  above  the  ground.  They  are  never  more  than  one 
story  high,  for  it  would  be  an  indignity  to  a  holy  monk  to  have  any  one  over 
his  head.  A  flight  of  steps  leads  up  to  the  verandah,  which  extends  all  along 
the  IT.  and  S.  sides  and  frequently  all  round  the  building.  The  steps  are 
usually  adorned  with  carvings  or  plaster  figures  of  nats  or  ogres.  From 
the  raised  floor  rises  the  building  with  tier  upon  tier  of  dark  massive  roofs 
caj^>ed  at  intervals  with  tapering  spires  or  pyaSuUs,  The  buildings  are  in 
many  cases  ornamented  with  the  most  elaborate  carving.  The  interior 
accommodation  is  very  simple.  It  consists,  in  the  main,  of  a  great  central 
hall  divided  into  two  portions,  one  level  with  the  verandah  where  the  scholars 
are  taught,  and  the  otheT  a  raised  dais  2  ft  or  so  above  the  level  of  the  rest 
of  the  building.  Seated  upon  this  the  priests  are  accustomed  to  receive 
visitors,  and  at  the  back,  against  the  wall,  are  arranged  images  of  Gaudama 
interspersed  with  manuscript  chests,  small  shrines,  fans,  and  other  religious 
implements,  and  miscellaneous  gifts  of  the  pious,  heaped  together  ordinarily 
in  very  careless  fashion.  There  are  occasionally  dormitories  for  the  monks, 
but,  as  a  rule,  they  sleep  in  the  central  hall,  where  the  mats  which  form  their 
beds  may  be  seen  rolled  up  round  the  pillows  against  the  wall.  In  many 
monasteries  there  is  a  special  room  for  the  palm  leaf  scribes,  often  detached 
from  the  main  building,  as  are  the  cook-room  and  the  bathing-houses.  In 
one  corner  is  usually  a  theinf  a  building  for  the  performance  of  various  rites 


480 


BITBICA 


Ifldk  I 


and  ceremonies,  and  more  particularly  for  the  examination  and  ordination  of 
priests.  The  traveller  will  find  it  perfectly  easy  to  Tkit  and  doeely  inspect 
as  many  pagodas  and  monasteries  as  he  pleases.  The  pagodas  are  open  to  all, 
and  at  the  monasteries  he  may  be  generally  certain  of  a  Mendly  welcome  from 
the  priests,  provided  he  can  speak  Burmese  or  is  accompanied  hy  any  one 
acquainted  with  that  language.  The  priests  are  treated  with  great  respect 
by  the  people  of  the  country,  and  are  invariably  addressed  as  papa  ot  loid. 
Any  one  who  desires  to  visit  a  monastery  will  do  well  to  bear  in  mind  tlist 
the  monks  are  accustomed  to  be  treated  with  deference. 

Pires. — The  traveller  should  make  a  point,  before  leaving  Bumta,  <tf  seeing 
something  of  the  Pwe,  the  national  amusement  of  the  people.  Pwes  sre  of 
three  kinds,  the  Zdt  puje,  which  consists  of  acting,  singing,  dancdng^  and 
clowning ;  the  Yokthwepwe,  in  which  a  similar  performance  is  gone  thionj^ 
by  marionettes ;  and  the  Turn  pwe,  a  kind  of  ballet,  with  mnnc  and  song^ 
performed  by  a  considerable  company  of  young  men  or  maidens,  as  the  esse 
may  be.  Tein  pwes  are  usually  performed  only  on  special  occasions,  in 
honour  of  some  high  official,  or  at  a  great  pagoda  feast,  but  zat  pwes  and 
yokthwe  pwes  are  of  constant  occurrence  on  nearly  all  moonlight  nights  in 
eveiy  large  town,  and  the  traveller  should  have  no  difficulty  in  seeing  botit 
forms  of  entertainment,  either  in  Rangoon  or  Mandalay.  The  performances 
take  place  in  the  open  air,  last  all  night,  and  usually  for  ssTeral  nigj&ts  ir 
succession,  and  are  free  and  open  to  all,  the  actors  being  paid  by  the  giver  of 
the  entertainment.  The  minority  of  the  audience  stay  the  whole  night,  say 
from  8  P.M.  till  sunrise,  but  an  hour  or  two  of  the  performance  will  probably 
satisfy  the  English  traveller.  A  full  description  of  the  different  kinds  of  pwe 
is  given  by  Shway  Yoe  in  chapter  xxiz.  of  The  Burman.    J 


RANGOON. 

ArrivaL — It  may  be  taken  for  granted 
that  the  traveller,  either  from  ii^gland 
or  from  India,  will  land  at  Rangoon, 
and  it  will  therefore  be  convenient  first 
to  describe  the  principal  objects  of  in- 
terest in  that  city,  ana  then  to  mention 
a  few  of  the  principal  tours  which  can 
be  made  thence  to  other  parts  of  the 
province. 

RAKOOONi^c  is  the  capital  of  the 
province,  and  the  seat  of  the  local 
government.  In  1852  it  was  a  mere 
fishing  village.  In  1894  it  is  a  city  of 
about  200,000  inhabitants,  having  a 
trade  larger  than  that  of  any  Indian 
port  save  only  Calcutta  and  Bombay. 
The  value  of  the  private  sea-borne  trade 


of  Rangoon  in  1892-93  was  over  Rs. 
186  millions.  Twenty  yesza  ago  it 
was  under  Rs.  46  miUions.  During. 
the  same  period  the  population  has 
increased  from  about  9Q,000  to  about 
200,000  souls.  The  principal  objects 
of  interest  in  and  around  Rangoon  may 
be  classified  as  follows : — 

1.  The  pagodas  and  monasteries. 

2.  The  bazaars  and  native  shops. 

3.  The  Tipe,  timber,  and  oil  works. 

4.  The  public  buUdings. 

5.  The  cantonments  and  lakes. 

6.  The  remains  at  Syriam. 

(1)  PAOODAS  AND  BUONASTBRIBS.- 
There  are  numerous  pagodas  in  and 
about  Rangoon.  The  Shwe  Lagcn  and 
the  SvZ$  deserve  special  mention.   Tb 


ft^iroooN 


481 


greort    8hW6   Dagoa   Pagoda  is  the 
most  Tenerable,  the  finest,  and  the  most 
universally   visited    of  all    places  of 
worship  in  Indo  China.     Its  peculiar 
sanctity  is  due  to  the  fact,  that  it  is  the 
only  pagoda  known  to  Buddhists,  which 
is  credited  with  containing  actual  relics, 
not  only  of  Gaudama,  but  of  the  three 
Bnddhas  who  preceded  him  in  this 
world.      Hence   it  attracts  countless 
pilgrims,  not  only  from  all  parts  of 
Burma,  but  also  from  Cambodia,  Siam, 
Corea,    and   Ceylon.      It   is   situated 
about  2  m.  from  the  Strand,  and  may 
be  reached  either  by  steam  tramway 
(chiefly  used  by  natives)  or  by  ticca 
gharry.    The  stately  pile  stands  upon 
a  monnd,  partly  natural  and  partly 
artificial,  which  has  been  cut  into  two 
rectangular   terraces   one    above    the 
other  ;  each  side,  as  in  the  case  of  all 
pagodas,   facing  one  of  the  cardinal 
pomta  of  the  compass.      The  upper 
■errace,    which    has    been    carefully 
evelled  and  paved  and  repaved  by  the 
dons,  rises  166  ft.  fh>m  the  level  of 
\6  ground,  and  is  900  ft.  long  by  685 
Me.     The  ascent  was  by  four  flights 
Hrick  steps,  one  opposite  the  centre 
tch  face — but  the  western  face  has 
closed  by  the  fortifications  built 
;he  EngHsn  conqueror  to  dominate 
town  and  secure  the  pagoda,  where 
re  was  so  much  desperate  fighting 
the  Burmese  wars.     The  southern 
ient  is  that  most  frequently  used. 
it  the  foot  are  two  gigantic  leogryphs, 
lilt  of  brick  and  covered  with  plaster, 
rom  them  up  to  the  platform  the  long 
fcairs  are  covered  by  a  rising  series 
>f  handsomely-carvea  teak  roofs,  sup- 
ported on   huffe  wood   and   masonry 
pQIars.     The  heavy  cross-beams  and 
the  panelling  are  in  many  places  em- 
bellished  with   frescoes,   representing 
scenes  in  the  life  of  Gaudama  and  his 
disciples,  and  with  hideously  curious 
representations  of  the  tortures  of  the 
wicked.     The  steps  themselves  are  ex- 
ceedingly primitive  and  dilapidated, 
consisting  m  some  parts  of  broad  stone 
flags,  and  in  others  of  simple  sun-dried 
bricks,  worn  by  the  feet  of  myriads  of 
worshippers.     On  either  side  beggars 
congregate,  exhibiting,  in  many  cases, 
faornble  leprous  sores.    There  are  also 


numerous  stalls,  at  which  gold  leaf, 
flowers,  and  other  offerings,  may  be 
purchased,  besides  a  considerable 
variety  of  other  articles.  The  stairs 
debouch  on  a  broad,  open,  flagged 
space  which  runs  all  round  the  pagoda, 
and  is  left  free  for  worshippers.  From 
the  centre  of  this  springs,  from  an 
octagonal  plinth,  the  pagoda  itself.  It 
has  a  circumference  of  1365  ft.,  and 
rises  to  a  height  of  about  870  feet,  or 
a  little  higher  than  St  Paul's  Cathedral.  ■ 
It  is  profusely  gilt  from  base  to  summit, 
and  is  surmounted  by  the  usual  gilt 
iron  work  ticfr**  umbrella,"  on  each  of 
whose  many  rings  hang  multitudes  of 
gold  and  silver  jewelled  bells.  This  ti 
was  presented  by  Mindon  Min,  the  late 
king  of  Burma,  and  was  placed  on  the 
summit  at  a  cost  of  about  £50, 000.  It 
was  constructed  by  voluntary  labour, 
and  subscriptions  in  money  and  jewels, 
with  which  the  vane  and  uppermost 
band  are  richly  studded,  flowed  in 
from  all  parts  of  Burma.  A  few  years 
ago  the  whole  pagoda  was  regilt,  and 
the  ti  was  then  lowered  to  the  plat- 
form, and  replaced,  renovated,  and 
with  many  costly  jewels  added.  At 
the  comers  of  the  basement  are  some- 
what Assyrian-like  figures  of  Manot- 
thiha — creatures  with  two  bodies  and 
one  head,  half  lion,  half  man,  with 
huge  ears  and  ruffled  crest — and  all 
round  about  are  stone  figures  of  lions 
displaying  an  ample  show  of  teeth  be- 
tween their  grinnmg  lips.  The  tale  is 
that  long  years  ago  a  king's  son,  who 
had  been  abandoned  in  the  forest,  was 
found  by  a  lioness  and  suckled  by  her. 
When  the  prince  grew  to  man's  estate 
he  left  his  foster-mother,  and  swam  a 
broad  river  to  escape  from  her.  The 
tender  mother's  heart  burst  when  he 
reached  the  other  side,  and  she  died ; 
and,  in  remembrance  of  her  love,  lions' 
figures  are  placed  at  the  foot  of  all 
pagoda  steps,  and  round  the  building 
itself. 

The  four  chapels  at  the  foot  of  the 
pagoda  are  adorned  by  colossal  figures 
of  the  sitting  Buddha,  and  in  the 
farthest  recess,  in  a  niche  of  its  own, 
is  a  still  more  goodly  figure,  the  thick 
gilding  darkened  in  many  places  by 
the  fumes  of  thousands  of  burning 


422 


BUBMA 


hA 


tapers  and  candles.  Hundreds  of 
Gaudamas,  large  and  small,  sitting, 
standing,  and  reclining,  white  and 
black,  of  alabaster,  son-dried  clay,  or 
wood,  surround  and  are  propped  up  on, 
the  larger  images.  High  stone  altars 
for  the  offering  of  rice  and  flowers 
stand  before  tne  lions,  interspersed 
with  niche  altars  for  burnt -offerings. 
On  the  outer  edge  of  the  platform  are 
a  host  of  small  pagodas,  eadi  with  its 
•  ti ;  taaa/wngSf  image-houses  overflowing 
with  the  gifts  of  generations  of  pilgrims ; 
figures  of  Buddha  in  single  low  stone 
chapek;  tall  posts  (called  ^a(^iMu2at?t^), 
flaunting  from  which  are  long  cylind- 
rical streamers  of  bamboo  framework, 
pasted  oyer  with  paper  depicting  scenes 
trom  the  sacred  history,  and  often  in- 
scribed with  pious  invocations  from 
the  offerer,  or  surrounded  by  the  sacred 
herUha  (Brahminy  goose),  the  emblem 
of  the  Talaings,  or  the  kcUatoeik,  the 
crane  of  the  Burmese.  Interspersed 
among  these  are  multitudes  of  bells  of 
all  sizes.  The  bells  are  hung  on  stout 
crossbeams,  and  beside  them  lie  deers' 
antlers  and  wooden  stakes  with  which 
the  worshipper,  strikes  them  as  he 
passes,  and  so  calls  the  attention  of 
nats  and  men  to  his  acts  of  piety.  In 
the  N.E.  comer,  covered  oy  a  gaily 
decorated  wooden  shed,  hangs  a  bell 
of  enormous  size,  inside  which  half  a 
dozen  men  can  stand.  It  was  pre- 
sented by  King  Tharrawaddy  in  1840, 
and  is  said  to  weigh  42^  tons,  and  to 
be  the  third  largest  bell  in  the  world. 
It  bears  a  long  inscription  recounting 
the  merits  gained  by  the  monarch  who 

Presented  it  The  bell  has  a  curious 
istoiy.  After  the  second  Burmese 
war  the  English  made  an  attempt  to 
carry  it  off  to  Calcutta  as  a  trophy, 
but  by  some  mishap  it  was  sunk  to 
the  bottom  of  the  Bangoon  river.  The 
English  engineers  faSed  to  raise  it. 
The  Burmans  after  some  years  begged 
that  the  sacred  bell  might  be  restored 
to  them,  if  they  could  recover  it.  The 
petition  was  granted  with  a  sneer  ;  but 
they  set  to  work,  got  it  out,  and 
carried  it  in  triumph  to  the  place 
where  it  now  han^.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  describe  in  any  detail 
^^^  myriad  objects  of  interest  which 


aie  gathered  on  the  pacods  plAtfiora, 
but  the  traveller  should  not  id  to 
examine  the  magnificent  earring  it 
the  head  of  the  eastern  ascent,  ut 
that  on  the  canopy  of  the  ooknl 
recumbent  figure  of  Graudsma  on  tb 
western  &ce  of  the  platform.  Ik 
carving  and  inlaid  glass  work  on  ill 
four  of  the  chapels  attached  to  tb 
pagoda  itself  deserve  notice,  the  caifiig 
over  the  eastern  chapel  beiD|;  partkn- 
larly  curious,  inasmuch  as  it  appeo 
to  be  illustrative  of  the  capture  of  tlie 
pagoda  by  the  English.  The  Brituh 
soldiers  witli  their  rifles,  and  tiicir 
officers  each  holding  a  telescope  to  hii 
eye,  are  clearly  recognisable  on  the 
highest  tier,  while  on  a  lower  tier  ths 
defeated  Burmese  show  little  sign  of 
despondency.  In  the  N.E.  comer  of 
the  platform  will  be  found  the  gn?a 
of  certain  officers  killed  in  the  aeoond 
Burmese  war.  To  the  W.  of  the  plat- 
form is  the  Government  Arsenal  At 
the  base  of  the  pagoda  hill  are  manj 
monasteries  embowered  in  groves  « 
palmyra  palms  and  shady  trees,  and  to 
the  S.  is  a  small  convent  of  nuns,  not 
far  from  the  Rest-Houae  bmlt  bytha 
King  of  Siam  for  pilgrims  from  lui 
dominions. 

The  platform  is  never  deserted. 
Even  long  after  midnight  the  voice 
of  the  worshipper  may  be  heard  in 
the  night  air  chanting  his  pions 
aspirations,  while  on  feast  days  thj 
laughing,  joyous  crowd  of  men  and 
maidens  in  their  gay  national  dies 
makes  the  platform  of  the  Shwedagw 
one  of  the  finest  sights  in  the  worli 
The  visitor  should,  if  possible,  take  an 
interpreter  with  him,  and  should  pro- 
vide himself  with  a  few  rapees.  He 
can  then,  if  he  pleases,  have  bis  fortune 
told  by  one  of  the  numerous  sam 
who  are  always  to  be  fonnd  on  the 
platform ;  or  he  can  buy  for  »  rupee 
or  two  one  of  the  quaint  triMguiar 
gongs  used  by  the  religious  mendicants 
to  attract  the  attention  of  the  pions, 
or  supply  himself  with  gold  lea^ 
prayer  flags,  flowers,  or  siiecimens  oi 
the  curious  marionettes  and  other  toys 
which  are  offered  for  sale  on  the  steps 
and  on  the  platform.  ,      _^ 

Buddhists  fix  the  date  of  the  erechoi 


RANGOON 


423 


>f  tlie  Shwedagon  pagoda  at  588  b.o.; 
but  state  that  the  site  was  sacred  for 
Bydes    before,  since  the  relics  of  the 
tLree    precedinff  Buddhas  were  found 
interred  when  the  two  Talaing  brothers, 
I^     and     Tapaw,    came    with    their 
precious  eight  hairs  of  Gaadama  to  the 
sacred  hilL      The  original  pagoda  is 
said    to  have  been  only  27  ft.  high, 
and  to  have  attained  its  present  height 
by    being  repeatedly   cased   with  an 
outer  coyering  of  bncks  several  feet  in 
thickness.     The  shrine  has  remained 
unaltered  in  size  and  shape  since  1564, 
and     probably  will   never  be  altered 
again.      At  all  times  and  at  all  dis- 
tances it  looks  imposing  and  sublime, 
like  the  religion  whose  followers  have 
built  it.     It  looks  best,  perhaps,  on  a 
bright    moonlight    night,     and     the 
traveller  is  advised,  if  practicable,  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  platform  by  night 
as  well  as  by  day.     For  the  above  de- 
scription of  the  pagoda  the  compiler  is 
mainly  indebted  to  Mr.  Scett  (Shway 
Yoe). 

The  Sule  Pagoda  close  to  the  Strand. 
This  pagoda  is  well  worth  a  visit, 
and  the  traveller  will  do  well  to 
ascend  the  platform  and  examine  the 
many  carious  shrines  and  figures  witii 
which  it  is  adorned.  •  Among  others 
will  be  found  a  representation  of  the 
Sule  Nat,  the  spirit  after  whom  the 
pagoda  is  named,  the  legendary 
guardian  of  the  hill  upon  which  the 
Shwedagon  pagoda  is  erected. 

The  Kangoon  Monaateries  are  very 
numerous.  They  are  none  of  them 
of  any  special  interest,  and  the  travel- 
ler will  probably  be  satisfied  by  paying 
a  brief  visit  to  two  or  three  of  them. 
Some  of  the  most  picturesque  are  at 
Eemmendine,  near  the  rly.  sta.,  and 
a  visit  to  them  may  be  combined  with 
an  inspection  of  the  images  of  Gaudama 
in  process  of  manufacture  hard  by, 
and  of  the  shops  of  the  kalaga  makers, 
which  are  also  at  Kemmendine.  The 
hcUaga  is  a  kind  of  blanket,  usually 
red,  covered  with  strange  figures  in 
appliqu^  work.  Kaloffas  can  some- 
times be  purchased  ready-made,  but 
must  usually  be  ordered  beforehand. 
They    make    quaint    and    handsome 


pofiiires  or  hangings.  There  are  other 
larffe  monasteries  in  Godwin  Road, 
and  at  Pazundaung  (see  Index,  "  Mon- 
asteries "). 

(2)  The  Bazaars  and  Native  Shops. 
— The  bazaars  are  a  great  institution 
throughout  Burma.  They  are  large 
markets,  usually  the  property  of  the 
State  or  of  the  Municipality,  in 
which  much  of  the  retail  trade  of  the 
country  is  carried  on.  They  are  also 
the  0reat  centres  of  gossip  among 
the  Burmese.  A  visit  should  be 
made  to  the  MunicipcU  baexuirs  on  the 
Strand  Road  and  at  Kemmendine,  and 
to  the  SwrcUee  bazaar  in  China  Street. 
At  the  bazaar  in  Strand  Road  speci- 
mens of  the  silks  and  lacquer  work 
for  which  Burma  is  famous  can  be 
purchased.  Apart  from  the  bazaars, 
the  native  shops  are  not  of  special 
interest  At  OooTUimaJ^s,  in  Merchant 
Street,  tolerable  specimens  of  various 
forms  of  native  art  may  be  purchased 
at  fSairly  reasonable  prices ;  bat  the 
traveller  who  desires  the  best,  or  who 
wishes  to  see  the  articles  in  process 
of  manufacture,  should  go  to  Godwin 
Road  for  silver  work  or  wood  carving. 
He  will  find  several  shops  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  road.  For  silver  work 
MoAiiig  Shwe  Yon  and  Ma/img  Po 
Thet  are  about  the  best.  But  these 
men  maintain  little  or  no  stock  of 
articles  for  sale.  The  traveller  must 
order  what  he  wants  and  be  content 
to  wait  some  time  before  he  gets  it. 
The  usual  char^  for  embossed  silver 
bowk  is  doubk  the  weight  of  the 
finished  bowl  in  rupees ;  but  for  the 
finest  work  even  higher  prices  are 
charged. 

(8)  The  Bioe,  Timber,  and  Oil  Works. 

— It  will  be  worth  while  to  pay  a  visit 
to  one  of  the  great  rice  mills.  Those 
of  Messrs,  Mdh/r  Bros, ,  at  Kemmendine, 
and  of  Messrs,  Bulloch  Bros.,  at 
Pazundaung,  are  two  of  the  largest,  and 
permission  to  visit  them  can  generally 
be  obtained  without  difficulty  at  the 
head  offices  of  the  firms.  Messrs, 
Macgregor's  Timber  -  ywrd  at  Alon 
should  also  be  visited.  Elephants 
are    employed    there    to    stack    th« 


4S4 


BUBMA 


India 


timber,  and  it  is  interettixig  to  obeerye 
the  intelligence  with  i^oh  they 
perform  the  task.  The  oil- works  of 
Messrs.  Finlay,  Fleming,  and  Co,,  at 
Pazondaung,  are  also  worth  seeing. 

(4)  The  Public  Buildings. — Rangoon 
cannot  at  present  boast  of  many  fine 
public  buildings.  The  Ckrart  Honaes 
and  Poet  and  Telttgxaph  Offices  and  the 
Sftilor'a  Home  are  on  the  Strand,  and 
a  fine  pile  of  buildings  has  recently 
been  erected,  at  a  cost  of  seren  lakhs 
of  rupees,  in  Dalhousie  Street,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  Secretariat  and 
other  public  offices.  This  is  at  present, 
undoubtedly,  l^e  finest  building  in 
Bangoon  and  deserres  a  visit.  In 
front  of  it  will  be  noticed  the  '*  8er- 
Tioes  Memorial,"  a  drinking  fountain 
erected  by  members  of  the  Tarious 
civil  services  of  the  Province  in  memory 
of  their  comrades  who  were  killed  or 
died  during  the  8rd  Burmese  war.  The 
names  of  the  officers  oommemorated 
are  inscribed  on  the  shields  surrounding 
the  fountain.  In  China  Street  is  the 
new  Cathedral,  and  in  the  Eemmen- 
dine  Road  the  new  OoYemmeiit  House, 
a  handsome  three -storied  building, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  six  lakhs  of  rupees. 
The  architect  of  these  three  buildings  is 
Mr.  Hoyne  Fox,  an  engineer  of  the 
Public  Works  Dept  The  Bangoon 
Ck>llege  and  the  Oeneral  Hospital, 
situated  on  either  side  of  China  Street, 
are  spacious  teak  buildings  of  no  special 
architectural  merit.  Travellers  inter- 
ested in  the  progress  of  education  in 
the  East  would  do  well  to  pay  a  visit 
to  the  collie  and  also  to  St.  John's 
(S.P.6.),  ]^mmendine  (behind  the 
Gymkhana),  St.  Paul's  (Roman  Cath.) 
near  the  new  public  buildings,  and  the 
Baptist  Institutions  at  Alon.  The 
Bernard  I^ree  Lihrary  attached  to  the 
Bangoon  College  contains  an  interesting 
collection  of  ancient  Pali  and  Burmese 
palm-leaf  manuscripts,  and  the  Phayre 
Museum  close  by  may  be  considered 
worth  a  visit.  The  museum  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  Horticultural  Gardens, 
in  which  a  small  collection  of  wild 
beasts  forms  a  great  attraction  for  the 
Burmese.  In  these  oardens  stands 
also  a  statue  to  Sir  Arthur  Phayre, 


first  Chief  Commissioner  of  Burma. 
The  only  other  statue  in  Rangoon  is 
one  of  H.M.  the  Queen  Empress, 
erected  in  1895,  in  Dalhousie  Square. 
In  the  N.K  oomer  of  the  Parade 
ground  the  ''Jubilee  Hall"  is  now 
in  process  of  erection.  Lastly  amone 
public  buildinffs  may  be  mentioned 
the  Jail  in  tiail  Road,  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  British  Empire,  having 
accommodation  for  over  8000  prisoners. 
Permission  to  inspect  the  jail  may  be 
obtained  by  apphcation  to  the  Super- 
intendent. Many  different  industeies 
are  conducted  by  the  prisoners,  and  in 
the  jail  salesroom  specimens  of  their 
handicraft  may  be  purchased. 

(5)  The  Cantonments  and  Lakes.  ~ 
These  afford  pretty  rides  and  drives, 
but  the  traveller  who  can  obtain  no 
better  means  of  conveyance  than  a  ticca 
gharry  will  probably  not  care  to  drive 
far.  He  should,  however,  take  at  least 
one  drive  in  Cantonments,  say  along 
Godwin  Rosd,  past  the  Parade  ground 
and  Race  Course,  then  to  the  1.  past  the 
Pegu  Club  to  the  Promo  Road,  then 
alon^  Prome  Road  to  Halpin  Road  (the 
**  laoQes'  mile"),  along  Halpin  Road  to 
the  Gymkhana,  thence  past  Government 
House  alone  Eemmenoine  Road  to  the 
Great  Pagoda,  and  thence  through  the 
Cantonment  gardens  and  back  by 
Voyles  Road  to  the  town. 

Another  drive  which  should  on  no 
account  be  omitted  is  round  the  Boyal 
Lake  and  through  Dalhousie  ^rk. 
Those  who  are  prepared  to  go  further 
afield, can  obtain  a  very  pretty  drive 
by  going  along  the  Prome  Road  to 
the  Victoria  Lake,  which  supplies  Ran- 
goon with  water,  skirting  the  lake  and 
returning  by  the  Kokine  Road.  By  this 
road  (total  distance  about  15  m.)  tiiey 
will  pass  through  miles  of  pineapple 
gardens,  among  which  various  pictur- 
esque and  shatfy  rides  can  be  had. 

(6)  Syriam.  —The  travellerwhohas  an 
afternoon  to  spare,  and  who  can  obtain 
the  use  of  one  of  the  numerous  steam 
launches  belonging  to  the  Government 
or  to  any  of  the  local  firms,  may  weU  pay 
a  visit  to  Syriam.  This  is  now  a  mere 
village  of  some  2000  inhabitants,  bat 


ROUTE  1.      RAKGOON  TO  PEGU 


4d6 


was  formerly  a  place  of  some  import- 
ance, and  is  of  special  interest  as  being 
the  site  of  the  earliest  European  settle- 
ments of  any  importance  in  Burma. 
The  town  is  said  to  have  been  estab- 
lished in  A.D.  787,  but  little  is  known 
of  its  history  up  to  the  16th  cent.,  when 
it  was  presented  by  the  kins  of  Arrakan 
to  Philip  de  Brito  who,  wiw  his  Portu- 
guese, had  assisted  the  king  in  the 
conquest  of  Vega,  In  1618  Syriam 
was  besieged  and  captured  by  the  king 
of  Ava,  s£  the  Portuguese  being  either 
slain  or  sent  to  Upper  Burma,  where  a 
few  of  their  descendants  exist  to  this 
dajr.  From  1631  to  1677  the  Dutch 
maintained  a  factory  at  Syriam.  The 
English  also  had  a  factory,  which  was 
re-established  in  1698,  and  destroyed  by 
the  Burmese  in  1743.  Nothing  now 
remains  of  the  once  flourishing  Portu- 
guese, Dutch,  and  English  factories 
except  the  substantial  ruins  of  an  old 
church,  some  tombs,  and  the  founda- 
tions of  a  few  masonry  houses.  The 
Church  was  built  by  Monseigneur 
Nerini,  the  second  vicar  apostouc  of 
Ava  and  Pegu,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
18th  cent.  In  17&6  the  Bishop  was 
murdered  by  Alompra.  From  that 
year  until  1760  the  mission  remained 
destitute,  and  was  then  removed  to 
J^angoon.  The  ruined  church  is  now 
buried  in  the  jungle,  about  i  m.  from 
the  landing  stage.  If  the  traveller  is 
accompanied  by  an  interpreter  he  will 
have  no  difficulty  in  finding  some  one 
in  the  village  to  show  him  the  way  to 
the  ruins.  6  m.  from  Syriam  is  a 
large  Pagoda  standing  on  a  hill,  which 
affords  a  fine  view. 


ROUTE  1 

To  Mandalay,  Bhamo,  and  the 
first  defile  returning  to 
Kangoon  via  Prome 

The  arrangements  for  this  tour  will 
depend  entirely  upon  the  amount  of 
time  which  the  traveller  is  prepared  to 


devote  to  it.  If  he  has  only  a  few 
days  at  his  disposal  he  will  not  be  able 
to  do  more  than  proceed  to  Mandalay 
by  rail,  spend  two  or  three  days  there, 
and  return  by  the  same  route  to 
Rangoon.  If  he  has  a  week  at  his  dis- 
posal he  may  proceed  to  Mandalay  by 
rail,  stopping  an  afternoon  at  Pegu, 
and  may  return  by  steamer  to  Prome, 
and  thence  by  rail  to  Rangoon ;  three 
weeks  will  enable  him  to  extend  his 
tour  to  Bhamo;  and  a  longer  period 
to  go  on  to  the  first  defile  and  to  break 
the  return  journey  at  the  Jtiiby  Mines, 
at  Pagan,  and  at  Vefumgymmg.  A 
visit  to  the  Ruby  Mines  will  involve 
special  arrangements  as  the  mines  are 
situated  about  50  m.  from  the  river 
Imnk,  and  can  oidy  be  reached  by  ridins 
that  distance,  the  baggage  being  carried 
on  mules.  Pagan  and  Yenangyaung 
can  be  more  easily  managed  as  they 
are  near  the  river  bank,  but  a  visit  to 
either  place  will  involve  carrying  a 
certain  amount  of  camp  kit,  with  food 
and  cooking  arrangements,  as  there  are 
no  hotels  at  either  place.  In  the 
following  paraeraphs  a  few  brief 
particulars  will  be  given  of  the 
principal  places  which  may  be  visited 
on  a  somewhat  prolonged  tour.  The 
traveller  must  decide  for  himself  what 
to  see  and  what  to  omit. 

The  daily  mail  train  to  Mandalay 
leaves  Rangoon  (Phayre  Street  Station) 
at  about  5.30  P.M.  and  reaches  Man- 
dalay at .  about  4  o'clock  on  the 
following  afternoon.  The  traveller 
who  wishes  to  see  Pegu  should,  how- 
ever, select  a  train  starting  earlier  in 
the  day  so  as  to  allow  himself  a  few 
hours  of  daylight  at  Pegu,  after  which 
he  can  dine  at  the  railway  refreshment 
rooms  and  go  on  by  the  night  mail  to 
Mandalay. 

46  m.  PEGU,  sta.,  a  town  of  12,000 
inhabitants,  the  headquarters  of  the 
district  of  that  name,  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  in  573  a.d.  by  emigrants  from 
Thaton,  and  was  once  the  capital  of  the 
Talaing  kingdom.  It  is  described  by 
European  travellers  of  the  16th  century 
as  of  great  size,  strengtii,  and  magnific- 
ence. It  was  destroved  by  Alompra, 
bat  rebuilt  under  Bodawpaya.    Of  late 


426 


BURMA 


Indk 


years  the  population  has  very  greatly 
increased.  It  is  interestinff  chiefly  on 
account  of  its  pagodas  and  a  colossal 
figure  of  Gaudama. 

The  Shwemawdaw  Pagoda,  said  to 
contain  two  hairs  of  Buddha,  is  a  shrine 
of  great  sanctity.  Suocessiye  kin^s 
of  Burma  and  Pegu  lavished  their 
treasures  on  it  in  repairing  and  enlarg- 
ing it  When  originally  built  it  was 
only  75  ft.  high,  but  as  it  now  stands 
it  is  about  288  ft.  high  and  about  1850 
ft.  in  circumference  at  the  base.  It 
was  last  repaired  by  Bodawpaya  about 
100  years  ago,  and  has  recently  been 
regilt  under  the  supervision  of  the 
local  elders. 

The  enormous  recumbent  figure  of 
Gaudama,  known  as  the  Shwetha- 
yaung  is  dose  to  the  railway  station 
and  deserves  a  visit.  It  is  181  ft.  long, 
and  46  ft  high  at  the  shoulder.  Its 
history  is  unknown.  Pegu  was  taken 
by  Alompra  in  1757  A.D.,  and  utterly 
destroyed  for  a  generation.  In  the 
meanwhile  all  remembrance  of  this 
gigantic  image  was  lost  The  place  on 
which  it  was  situated  had  become  dense 
jungle,  and  the  image  itself  turned  into 
what  appeared  to  bs  a  jungle-covered 
hillock.  In  1881  the  railway  was 
being  constructed,  and  laterite  was 
required  for  the  permanent  way.  A 
local  contractor,  in  searching  for 
laterite,  came  across  a  quantity  m  the 
jungle,  and  on  clearing  the  place  un- 
covered the  image  which  has  ever  since 
been  an  object  of  veneration.  The  red 
brick  is  now  being  gradually  encased 
in  white  plaster  by  the  pious.  Not  far 
from  this  is  the  Kyaikpiin  paeoda  with 
four  colossal  figures  of  Buddha,  each 
about  90  ft.  high,  seated  back  to  back. 
There  are  many  other  objects  of  anti- 
quarian interest  in  Pegu,  such  as  the 
Ealyanisima  or  ancient  Hall  of  Ordina- 
tion, in  the  Zainganaing  quarter  to 
the  west  of  Pegu,  founded  by  King 
Damacheti  in  1476  A.D.,  and  the 
Shwegfuzale  pagoda  with  its  64  images 
of  Buddha  apparently  constructed  oy 
Siamese  architects.  Near  the  Kalyani- 
sima  are  10  large  stones  covered  with 
Pali  and  Talaing  inscriptions.  A  good 
panoramic  view  of  Pegu  and  its  suburbs 
IS  obtained  from  the  Shweautiggyo 


pagoda  which  ia  situated  at  the  south* 
east  comer  of  the  city  walls.  At  about 
700  yards  from  the  southern  fiice  is 
JetUYati,  the  encampment  of  Alompra 
when  he  beleaguered  the  town  in  1757 
A.D.  Within  the  walls  are  visible  the 
sites  of  the  palaces  of  the  kings  of 
Hanthawaddy.  Traces  of  a  doubk 
wall  and  moat  may  also  be  seen. 

Rejoining  the  train  at  about  9  o'dodc 
the  traveller  will  pass  through  the 
Shtoegyin  and  Tovmgoo  districts  of 
Lower  Burma  during  the  night,  and 
will  in  the  early  morning  cross  the  old 
British  frontier  into  the  Upper  Burma 
district  of  PyVMnana,  He  will  obtain 
chota  haari  at  Fyinmana,  a  town  of 
14,000  inhabitants,  and  break&st  at 
Tamethin,  the  headquarters  of  tiie 
district'  of  that  name.  Between 
Pyinmana  and  Yamethin,  and  thence 
on  to  Eyaukse,  he  will  see  to  the  E. 
the  range  of  hills  which  divides  Burma 
from  the  Shan  States,  including  (to  the 
S.E.  of  Yamethin)  the  triple  peak  of 
the  Byingye  range  (6000),  where  it  is 
proposed  to  form  a  sanit&rinm.  The 
Kyaukse  district  is  the  most  fertile 
in  Upper  Burma,  an  ingenious  system 
of  irrigation  works  enabling  tiie 
cultivator  to  obtain  three  or  four  crops 
of  rice  annually  from  the  same  ground. 
Here  the  hills  approach  much  nearer 
to  the  railway,  and  Kyaukse  itself  is 
picturesquely  situated.  The  train  now 
crosses  a  stream,  and  passing  through 
Ama/rapura,  a  former  capital  of 
Burma,  reaches  Mandalay  at  about 
four  o'clock. 

386  m.  MANDALAY.  sOe  sta.  The 
traveller  will  find  that  he  can  spend 
several  days  verypleasantly  at  Mandalay. 
The  city  contains  about  180,000  inhabi- 
tants, mostly  Burmese,  and  was  from 
1860  up  till  1885  the  capital  of  the 
Burmese  kingdom  and  the  residence  of 
the  King.  The  growth  of  the  city  has 
been  more  rapid  even  than  that  of 
Bangoon,  but  it  was  in  great  part  due 
to  temporary  causes,  now  removed,  and 
in  future  it  may  be  expected  that  the 
population  of  Mandalay  will  dwindle 
rather  than  increase.  The  city  proper 
was  in  Burmese  times  within  the  walled 


BOUTB  1.   BANOOON  TO  MANDALAT 


427 


endosnre,  which  is  how  used  as  a 
Cantonment  and  called  Fort  Dufferin, 

A  traveller  bent  on  studying  the 
capital  should  commence  by  ascending 
Mandalay  wn^  an  isolated  mouna 
rising  abruptly  from  the  flat  plain  on 
which  the  city  is  built  From  thia-point 
of  vantage  he  can  see  spread  out  like  a 
great  map  the  town  of  180,000  inhabi- 
tants, the  fort  with  the  palace  in  the 
centre,  the  temples  and  monuments 
worthy  of  a  royal  city,  and  the  system 
of  irrigation  built  by  King  Mindon, 
with  its  great  artificial  lake  and 
numerous  canals,  which  look  like  silver 
threads  as  they  carry  the  water  over  a 
vast  area  of  country  easily  discernible 
in  the  clear  and  brilliant  light.  At 
the  summit  of  the  hill  was  formerly  a 
wooden  temple  containing  a  huge 
standing  figure  pointing  with  his  finger 
at  the  palace  beneath.  Both  temple  and 
figure  were  recently  destroyed  by  fire. 

Fort  Dufferin  will  next  claim  atten- 
tion. This  great  square  fort,  built  to 
^uard  the  palace,  with  ^des  IJ  m.  long, 
IS  enclosed  by  walls  of  red  brick  26  ft. 
high,  machicolated  at  the  top  to  serve 
the  purpose  of  loopholes.  They  are 
backed  by  a  mound  of  earth,  so  that 
defenders  can  look  over  them.  On 
each  of  the  four  sides  stand,  at  equal 
distances,  18  peculiar  and  elegant 
watch-towers  of  Burman  design,  built 
of  teak  and  freely  ornamented  with 
gold.  One  of  these,  enclosed  and  en- 
larged, forms  the  nucleus  of  Qovem- 
ment  House,  the  residence  of  the 
Chief  Commissioner  when  at  Mandalay. 
Outside  the  walls,  and  surrounding  the 
fort,  is  a  broad  Moat,  full  of  water, 
100  yds.  wide.  It  is  crossed  by  five 
wooden  bridges,  one  in  the  middle  of 
each  side,  and  an  extra  one  on  the  W. 
face  which  was  formerly  reserved  for 
funeral  processions.  It  abounds  with 
fish,  and  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year 
large  patches  of  the  surface  of  the 
water  are  covered  with  the  broad 
circular  leaves  and  beautiful  pink  and 
white  flowers  of  the  lotus  plants,  which 
have  their  roots  at  the  bottom.  On 
this  moat,  in  the  King's  time,  were 
several  state  barges,  gilt  from  stem  to 
stem,  some  of  them  propelled  by  as 
many  as  sixty  rowers. 


There  are  12  gates  through  the  fort 
wall,  three  on  each  side  equally  spaced. 
In  front  of  each  gate  stands  the  wooden 
image  of  a  guardian  nat^  and  a  massive 
teak  post  bearing  the  name  and  sien  of 
the  gate.  It  is  under  or  near  tnese 
posts  that  the  bodies  of  the  unfortunate 
victims  rest,  who  are  said  to  have  been 
buried  alive,  in  order  that  their  spirits 
might  watch  over  the  gates. 

Exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  fort 
stands  the  royal  Palace  or  iVon^u;.  A 
plan  showing  the  disposition  of  the 
palace  buildings  at  tne  time  of  the 
annexation  will  be  found  in  Dr. 
Oertel's  Notes  on  a  Tour  in  Burma 
(Govt.  Press,  Rangoon,  1893),  from 
which  work  the  present  description  of 
the  palace  has  been  condensed.  The 
palace  was  formerly  a  square  fortified 
enclosure,  defended  by  an  outer  palisade 
of  teak  posts  20  ft  high  and  an  inner 
brick  wall,  with  an  open  esplanade  of 
about  60  ft.  width  between  them. 
This  walled  square  was  cut  up  into 
numerous  courts  surrounded  by  high 
walls,  and  in  the  very  centre,  to  make 
it  as  secure  as  possible,  was  an  inner 
enclosure  contaming  the  palace.  To 
the  N.  and  S.  of  the  inner  palace 
enclosure  are  two  walled-in  gardens, 
containing  royal  pavilions,  and  laid 
out  with  canals,  artificial  lakes,  and 
grottoes.  The  outer  stockade  and  all 
the  brick  walls  have  now  been  removed, 
as  also  many  of  the  minor  structures  ; 
the  chief  palace  buildings  are,  however, 
still  standing. 

Four  strongly  guarded  gates  led 
through  the  outer  aefences.  The  large 
gates  were  only  opened  for  the  King  ; 
all  other  people  had  to  squeeze  through 
the  red  postern  at  the  side,  which 
obliged  them  to  bow  lowly  as  they 
drew  near  the  royal  precincts.  Enter- 
ing the  eastern  gate,  which  is  still 
standing,  one  crossed  a  wide  enclosure 
which  contained  a  number  of  subsidiary 
buildings,  such  as  the  armoury,  printing 
press,  mint,  quarters  for  servants  and 
guard,  the  royal  monastery.  King 
Mindon's  mausoleum,  and  the  houses 
of  a  few  of  the  highest  officials.  Be- 
yond this  was  another  spacious  court  in 
front  of  the  palace,  at  the  northern  end 
of  whioh  races  and  sports  used  to  take 


428 


fitnou 


India 


place  before  tlie  King.  In  the  centre 
of  this  ooart  stands  the  great  hall  of 
audience,  with  the  lion  throne,  pro- 
jecting ont  boldly  from  the  hoe  of  the 
palace,  with  which  it  is  connected  at 
the  back.  The  private  part  of  the 
palace  is  behind  tnis,  on  an  elevated 
oblong  platform  in  an  inner  enclosure, 
which  was  entwed  throuffh  two  jeal- 
ously-guarded gates  on  eadi  side  of  the 
hall  of  audienoe.  At  the  western  end 
of  the  palace  platform  is  a  private 
aadienoe  hall,  with  the  lily  throne, 
where  ladies  were  received,  and  between 
the  two  halls  of  aadienoe  are  nnmerofoa 
wooden  pavilions,  fbrmerlv  occupied  by 
the  various  queens  and  princesses. 
Over  the  lion  throne  rises  the  high 
seven-storied  gilded  spire  or  «A«oepya- 
that,  the  external  emblem  of  royal^. 
The  Burmans  used  to  call  this  spire  the 
"  Centre  of  the  Universe,"  arguing  with 
true  national  arrogance  that  it  is  the 
centre  of  Mandalay,  which  is  the  centre 
of  Burma,  and  hence  of  the  world. 

In  the  S.  garden  is  a  small  pavilion, 
used  as  a  summer  house  bv  King 
Thebaw,  on  the  verandah  of  which 
he  surrendered  himself  to  General 
Prendergast  and  Colonel  Sladen  on 
November  29,  1885.  A  brass  tablet 
records  the  fact  The  richly-carved 
Pongyi  Kyanng  to  the  E.  of  the  palace, 
where  King  Thebaw  passed  the  period 
of  priesthood,  is  worthy  of  notice.  It 
is  now  used  as  a  ChapeL  Hard  by  is 
KingMindon's  mausoleum,  a  brick  and 
plaster  structure,  consisting  of  a  square 
chamber  surmounted  by  a  seven-storied 
spire.  Mindon  Min  was  buried  here  in 
1878.  The  palace  buildings  were  for  a 
time  used  for  barracks  and  offices,  but 
they  were  found  unhealthy,  and  the 
troops  have  been  removed  to  the  new 
barracks  outside.  The  great  hall  of 
audience  is  still  used  by  the  military 
as  a  church,  while  the  private  audience 
hall  and  surrounding  buildings  afford 
accommodation  to  the  Upper  Burma 
Club. 

PAOODAS  Am)  MONASTERIES.  — 
The  whole  neighbourhood  of  Man- 
dalay, Amarapura,  and  Ava  is  rich  with 
splendid  fanes,  of  which  it  wcmld  be 
impossible  to  give  any  detailed  account 


within  the  limits  of  these  pages.  Some 
of  the  finest  monasteries,  including  the 
Atumashi,  or  *'  incomparable  "  monas- 
tery, have  been  burnt  down  within  the 
past  few  years  ;  but  the  *'  460  psgodas  " 
and  the  Glass  Monastery  hard  by,  and 
not  far  from  the  base  of  Mandalay  hill, 
remain,  and  should  be  visited,  as  also 
the  Queen's  Golden  Monastery  in  B. 
Road  and  tiie  Azrakaa  Pagoda. 

The  460  Pagodas  is  a  very  remarkable 
work.  King  ThebaVs  unde,  anxious 
that  the  holy  books  of  Buddhism  should 
be  recorded  in  an  enduring  form,  called 
together  the  most  learned  of  the  priests 
to  transcribe  the  purest  version  of  the 
commandments ;  this  he  caused  to  be 
engraved  on  450  large  stones  of  the 
same  pattern.  These  stones  were  set 
up  in  an  enclosed  square,  and  over 
each  was  erected  a  small  domed  build- 
ing to  preserve  it  from  the  weather. 
The  enclosure  is  about  \  m.  square, 
surrounded  by  a  hig^  wall  with 
ornamental  gates  ;  in  the  centre  stands 
a  temple  of  the  usual  form. 

The  Glass  Monastery,  so  called  from 
the  profusion  of  inlaid  glass  work 
with  which  tiie  interior  and  exterior 
are  decorated,  is  close  by,  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  also  is  the  monastny 
of  the  ThcUhanoAmfng^  or  Buddhist 
Archbishop,  to  whom  the  traveller  may 
be  disposed  to  pay  the  compliment  of  a 
visit  The  Qvow^'b  Ctolden  MoBasteiy 
in  B.  Road  is  now  probably  the  hand- 
somest building  of  tne  kind  in  Burma. 
It  is  built  of  teak  in  the  ordinaiv 
form,  but  is  profusely  decorated  witJa 
elaborate  carving,  and  is  heavily  gilt 
within  and  wiuiout.  The  travc&r 
should  ask  pemussion  from  one  of  t]ie 
yellow-robed  fraternity,  of  whom  he 
will  be  sure  to  find  some  in  the  court- 
yard, to  inspect  the  interior  of  this 
monastery.  His  next  visit  may  be  to 
the  Maha  IfytU  Muni,  or  ''Azrakaa 
Psgoda."  The  Maha  Mvat  Muni 
pagoda  is  rendered  espeeisily  sacred 
by  the  great  sitting  image  of  Gaudama 
there  preserved,  and  is  on  this  account 
regarded  by  Upper  Burmans  as  not 
inferior  in  sauctltv  to  the  Shwedagon 
itselfl  The  huge  brass  image,  12  ft  in 
height,  was  bnnudbit  over  the  hills  from 
Akyabinl784.    The  image  was  origin- 


ROUTE  1.   RANOOON  TO  MANDALAT 


429 


ally  set  up,  so  sajs  Shway  Yot,  qnot- 
-  ing  the  ancient  legend,  during  the  life- 
time of  the  great  master,  l^e  utmost 
skill  and  most  persistent  energy  had 
failed  in  fitting  the  parts  together,  till 
the  Bnddha  perceiving  from  afar  what 
was  going  on,  and  ever  fall  of  pity, 
came  himself  to  the  spot,  and  emorsc- 
ing  the  image  seven  times,  so  joined 
together  the  fragments  that  the  most 
sceptical  eye  cannot  detect  the  points 
of  junction.  So  like  was  the  image,  and 
so  sublime  the  effulgence  which  shone 
aronnd  during  the  manifestation,  that 
the  rererentlT-gazing  crowd  could  not 
determine  which  was  the  model  and 
which  was  the  master.  The  resem- 
blance has  no  doubt  faded  away  with 
the  wickedness  of  later  times,  for,  un- 
like most  Burmese  images,  tins  p(»ya 
has  most  gross  and  repmsive  features. 
The  shrine  in  which  it  stands  is  one 
of  the  most  splendid  in  the  country. 
The  image  itself  is  covered  by  a  great 
seven -roofed  pyathat  with  goodly 
pillars^  the  ceuing  gorgeous  with 
mosaics.  Long  colonns^es,  supported 
on  252  massive  pillars,  all  richly  gilt 
and  carved  with  nrescoed  roof  and  sides, 
lead  up  to  it  All  day  long  circles  of 
oonstantly-renewed  worshippers  chant 
aloud  the  praises  of  the  Buddha,  and 
the  air  is  thick  with  the  effluvia  of 
candles  and  the  odours  from  thousands 
of  smouldering  incense  sticks.  Within 
the  precincts  of  the  pagoda  is  a  laree 
tank  tenanted  by  sacred  turtle,  who 
wax  huge  on  the  rice  and  cakes  thrown 
to  them  by  multitudes  of  pilgrims. 
Probabl;^  not  even  at  the  Shweda^on 
pagoda  is  more  enthusiastie  devotion 
shown  than  here. 

A  great  Baiaar  is  mtuated  in  the 
centre  of  the  population.  Grain  and 
vegetable  vendors,  silversmiths,  toy, 
umbrella,  and  lacquer  makers,  silk 
merchants,  and  numerous  other  traders 
occupy  streets  of  stalls.  Burmese 
ladies  in  the  usual  tight-fitting  petti- 
coat of  gay  silk  and  white  jacket, 
attended  by  a  maid,  may  be  seen 
making  their  daily  household  pur- 
chases; groups  of  girls  with  flowers 
in  their  hair  and  huge  cigars  in  their 
months,  price  the  suks  of  which  all 


Burmans  are  so  fond.  Many  strangers 
to  the  city,  come  on  business  or 
pleasure,  wander  about  deeply  inter- 
ested in  the  display  on  the  stalls. 
Nowhere  else  can  be  seen  gathered 
together  representatives  of  so  many 
widely  -  separated  and  little  -  known 
tribes,  differing  in  dress,  and  forming 
a  babel  of  languages.  Chins  from  the 
western  mountains,  Shans  horn  the 
east,  Kachins  from  the  north,  and 
Chinese  from  the  little -known  in- 
land borders  of  the  Empire,  all  meet 
here ;  and  Sikhs,  Groorkhas,  Madrassis, 
with  many  other  tribes  ^om  India, 
are  amongst  the  motley  throng. 
Everywhere  there  is  colour  and  move- 
ment, and  the  scene  i»  as  lively  as  it 
is  uncommon.  The  bazaar  well  de- 
serves a  visit,  and  is,  indeed,  the  best 
place  in  Burma  for  the  purchase  of 
silks.  Curious  old  specimens  of  silver 
work  may  also  sometunes  be  picked  up 
there  at  moderate  prices. 

[After  exploring  Mandalay  proper, 
short  excursions  should  be  made  to 
Yankintaimg,  to  Amarapura,  to 
Ragaing  and  Ate,  and  to  Mingrm. 

The  hills  called  YanUntaimg  are 
about  6  m.  due  £.  from  Mandalay, 
and  as  the  road  is  not  practicable  for 
carriages,  the  traveller  should  ride. 
There  are  a  number  of  pagodas  and 
monasteries,  and  a  deep  nssure  in  the 
ground  containing  an  imi^  of  Gau- 
dama  and  other  curious  objects.  The 
foundations  of  the  colossal  pagoda 
which  Mindon  Min  commenced  here 
may  also  be  examined. 

Amarapmra,  which  is  a  few  miles  to 
the  S.  of  Mandalay,  can  be  reached  by 
rail  It  was  until  1800  the  capital  of 
the  Burmese  kingdom,  and  is  folly 
described  in  Tule's  Mission  to  Awt, 
Only  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  capital 
now  remain,  but  they  are  iirteresting, 
and  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Sagaing  and  Ava  can  also  be  readily 
visited  by  rail.  Ava  was  the  prede- 
cessor of  Amarapura  as  the  capital  of 
Burma.  Little  trace  now  remains  of 
the  city  of  Ava,  but  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  are  hundreds  of  pagodas  of 


430 


BUBICA 


India 


every  variety  and  degree  of  decoration. 
There  is  the  Naga/yon  paya,  the  whole 
building  wrought  into  the  form  of 
a  dragon  ;  the  huge  round  -  domed 
KaunghmudaWf  a  few  miles  out  of 
Sagaing ;  **  glistening  white  pinnacles 
or  flashing  gold  spires  on  the  Sagaing 
hills,  and  on  the  ijnarapura  side  great 
massy  temples  frowning  over  the  river 
with  all  the  stem  solidity  of  a  knightly 
hold,  each  with  its  legend— some  tale 
of  bloodshed  or  piety,  some  event  in 
Burmese  lustoiy,  or  birth  story  of  the 
Buddha." 

Sagaing  is  now  the  headquarters  of 
the  Coamiissioner  of  the  southern 
division  of  Upper  Burma  and  of  the 
Deputy  Commissioner  of  the  Sagaing 
district  The  traveller  who  wishes  to 
explore  the  pagodas  of  Sagaing  and  Ava 
should  endeavour  to  obtain  an  intro- 
duction to  one  of  these  officials. 

The  last  of  the  excuisions  near 
Mandalay  deserving  special  mention  is 
that  to  Mingun,  about  9  m.  above 
Mandalay.  The  up-steamers  of  the 
Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company  call  there, 
but  the  down-steamers  do  not,  unless 
by  special  arrangement.  Mingun  is 
picturesquely  situated,  and  ia  interest- 
mg  for  its  great  unfinished  pagoda  and 
for  its  huge  beU.  The  groundwork  of  the 
great  misshapen  Mingun  pagoda  covers 
a  square  of  450  ft,  and  its  height  is 
155  ft,  about  one-third  of  the  elevation 
intended  for  it  when  completed ;  but 
Mintayagyi,  the  crack-brained  monarch 
who  founded  it,  ran  short  of  funds, 
and  the  building  was  stopped.  In 
1839  an  earthquake  rent  the  gigantic 
cube,  the  largest  mass  of  brickwork  in 
the  world,  with  fantastic  fissures  from 
top  to  bottom,  and  oast  down  ^eat 
masses  of  masonry,  tons  in  weight. 
Overlooking  the  river,  in  front  of  the 
eastern  face  of  the  temple,  stood  two 
^gantic  leogryphs  in  brick.  These 
tigures  were  originally  95  ft.  high,  and 
each  of  the  white  marble  eyeballs 
intended  for  the  monsters  measured 
13  ft  in  circumference.  The  leogryphs 
are  now  in  ruins.  N.  of  the  temple, 
on  a  low  circular  terrace,  stands  the 
biggest  bell  in  Burma — ^the  biggest  in 
the  world,  probably,  after  the  one  at 
Moscow.     It  is  slung  on  a  triple  beam 


of  neat  size,  resting  on  two  tiers  of 
brickwork,  enclosing  massive  frames 
of  teak.  The  bell  does  not  now  swing 
free.  The  supports  were  so  miic£ 
shaken  by  the  earthquake  that  it  wis 
found  necessary  to  put  props  under 
the  belL  Of  course,  no  tone  can  now 
be  got  out  of  it.  The  diameter  of  the 
bell  at  the  lip  is  16  ft,  and  its  height 
12  ft.  Its  weight  is  about  80  tons. 
There  are  other  curious  pagodas  in  the 
neighbourhood.] 

The  traveller  who  has  time  to  pro- 
ceed fisirther  N.  ma^  either  take  one  of 
the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  steamers  which 
leave  Mandalay  every  Monday  and 
Thursday  for  BhamOf  or  he  may  take 
the  train.  In  the  latter  case  he  will 
be  able  to  reach  Kyitkylna,  724  m. 
from  Bangoon.  The  steamer  ronte  to 
Bhamo  and  back  (^  days  up  and  1^ 
day  down)  is  recommendcMl.  The 
steamers  are  well  fitted,  and  the  scenery 
is  fine.  Passing  Sheinmaga  on  the 
rt,  and  Singu  and  Kyaokmyaung 
on  the  1.,  the  steamer  passes  tlirough 
the  third  defile  to  Thabeikkyin  and 
Kyanhnyat  Tigyaing  on  the  L 
bank  is  prettily  situated  on  a  hilL 
Eatha  ia  next  passed  on  the  L  It 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  district  of 
that  name.  The  pagodas  of  Shwegu 
next  come  into  sight  on  the  rt,  and 
the  steamer  then  passes  through  the 
second  defile  to  Bhamo. 

The  defiles  of  the  river,  as  Bhamo  is 
approached,  are  very  fine.  The  wide 
stream  narrows  to  1000  yds.  and  flows 
for  80  m.  through  a  chain  of  bills 
covered  with  splendid  foliage.  The 
successive  reaches  of  the  river  resemble 
lakes,  being  apparentiy  shut  in  on  all 
sides.  Beyond  the  hills  is  a  plain, 
and  then  another  defile  through  a 
second  chain  of  hills,  which  is  even 
finer  than  the  last  'Hie  river  narrows 
to  200  or  300  yds.  and  rushes  through 
the  gap  with  great  velocity.  This  de- 
file extends  for  5  m.,  and  in  one  place- 
a  rock  rises  straight  out  of  the  water 
to  a  height  of  600  ft. 

There  is  not  much  to  be  seen  at 
BHAMO,  but  the  place  is  of  interest  as 
being  the  highest  station    on  the  Irra- 


BOUTB  1.      RANGOON  TO  BHAHO 


431 


^raddy  held  by  British  troops^  and  the 

uear^t  point  on  the  Irrawaddy  to  the 

Chinese  frontier.     Several  trade  rontes 

from  Yunnan  converge  on  Bhamo,  and 

the   importance  of  the  place  may  be 

expected   to  increase,   if   the    recent 

arrangements  for  the  encouragement 

of   trade  between  Western  China  and 

Hurma  prove  successM.     The  Bhamo 

district  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  Kachins, 

wild  bill  men,  who,  in  Burmese  times, 

^were     practically    independent,     and 

^were  a  constant  source  of  terror  to  the 

caravans  passing  between  Bhamo  and 

China.    Tne  Eachins  are  now  gradually 

being  reduced  to  order,  and  the  trade 

routes  are  at  present  comparatively  safe. 

Durine  certain  times  of  the  year  the 

Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company  run  a  small 

steamer  from  Bhamo  to  Msritkyina. 

By  taking  this  steamer,  the  first  defile, 

which   is  perhaps   the   finest  of   the 

three,  can  be  seen.     Myitkyina  itself 

possesses  no  features  of  special  interest. 

It  will  ultimately  be  connected  with 

Mandalay  by  railway,  and  when  this 

takes   place    its    importance   will   no 

doubt  increase,  as  it  will  then  attract 

caravans  from  China,  who  will  find 

through     Myitkyina     their    readiest 

approach  to  the  markets  of  Burma. 

West  of  Myitkyina  are  the  jade  and 

amber  mines,  but  these  are    not    at 

present  accessible  to  travellers. 

In  order  to  visit  the  Buby  Mines 
it  TTill  be  necessary  to  bret^  either 
the  upward  or  the  downward  journey 
between  Mandalay  and  Bhamo  at 
Thabeikkyin.  A  good  road  connects 
Thabeikkyin  with  Mogok  (50  m.),  the 
centre  of  the  Ruby  Mines  district,  and 
the  journey  is  worth  undertaking  if  the 
traveller  is  able  to  make  the  necessary 
arrangements  for  ponies  and  mules. 
The  journey  can  be  performed  by  easy 
stages  as  there  are  Government  Rest 
Houses  (roughly  furnished)  at  every  10 
QT  12  m.  along  the  road.  The  road 
passes  through  fine  mountain  sceneir, 
and  the  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be 
interested  in  observing  the  primitive 
methods  of  mining  followed  by  the 
Burmese,  as  well  as  the  more  civilised 
but  hitherto  not  too  successful  opera- 
tions of  the  English  Company. 


Having  returned  to  Mandalay,  the 
traveller  should  now  proceed  by  Irra- 
waddy Flotilla  steamer  to  Prome  (3 
days),  stopping  en,  routes  if  practicable, 
at  Nyaungu  for  Pagan,  and  at  1?  enang- 
yaung  for  a  visit  to  the  oil  wells.  After 
passing  Sagaing,  the  headquarters  of 
the  central  division,  the  steamer  calls 
at  Myingyan  and  Pakokku,  both  large 
towns  and  headquarters  of  British 
districts:  At  Myingyan  troops  are 
cantoned.  PakoKku  is  the  base  for 
the  Chin  Hills,  and  is  a  thriving  and 
rapidly-growing  city. 

Nyaungu  is  situated  about  120  m. 
below  Mandalay,  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  river,  and  is  interest- 
ing both  as  being  the  principal  place 
for  the  manufacture  of^the  celebrated 
Burmese  lacquer  work,^  and  as  being 
the  nearest  halting-place  to  old  Pagan, 
the  capital  of  Burma  from  the 
9th  to  the  18th  century.  There  is  a 
Government  Rest  House  at  Nyaungu, 
permission  to  occupy  which  should  be 
obtained  from  the  Deputy  Commis- 
sioner of  Myingyan,  and  the  traveller, 
who  wishes  to  make  anything  like  a 
detailed  examination  of  the  extensive 
and  very  interesting  remains  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood,  should  ar- 
range to  remain  at  least  two  days  there. 
A  pretty  full  description  of  the  pagodas 
at  Pagan  will  be  found  in  Yule's 
EmboMy  to  Ava,  if  the  traveller  should 
be  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  a  copy 
of  that  work.  A  very  brief  account 
(taken  chiefly  from  Yule)  of  some  of 
the  principal  monuments  is  all  that 
can  be  given  here. 

The  PAGAN  ruins  extend  over 
a  space  about  8  m.  in  length  along 
the  river,  and  averaging  about  2 
m.  in  breadth.  The  brick  rampart 
and  fragments  of  an  ancient  gate- 
way, showing  almost  obliterated  traces 
of  a  highly  architectural  character, 
are  the  only  remains  which  are  not  of 
a  religious  description.  The  total 
number  of  temples  was  roughly 
estimated  hj  Yule  at  from  800  to 
1000.     All  kinds  and  forms  are  to  be 

1  A  fall  description  of  tlie  process  of  manu- 
facture will  be  found  in  chap,  xxvii.  of  Tin 
Bunrian  by  Shway  Yoe. 


432 


BXTRlfA 


TnAt 


fonnd  among  them;  the  bell-shaped 
pyramid  of  brickwork  in  all  its 
varieties;  the  same  raised  over  a 
square  or  octiuronal  cell  containing  an 
image  of  Buddha ;  the  blaff  knob-like 
dome  of  the  Ceylon  dagobas;  the 
fantastic  Bopaya,  or  Pnmpkin  pagoda, 
and  many  variations  on  these  ^pes. 
But  the  predominant  and  characteristic 
form  is  that  of  the  cruciform,  vaulted 
temple,   certain   specimens    df  which 


portions  on  each  face,  so  that  B 
measures  280  ft  across  each  way.  B 
is  seven  stories  in  height ;  sir  of  thea 
are  square  and  flat,  each  dimiTiialnag 
in  extent,  so  as  to  give  the  whole  a 
pyramidal  form  ;  the  seventh,  which  i% 
or  simulates,  the  cell  of  the  tem^t^ 
takes  the  form  of  a  Hinda  or  Sm 
temple,  the  whole  in  this  insta 
rising  to  the  height  of  183  ft  Inter- 
nally the  building  ia  extremely  solid. 


■Id 

Plan  of  the  Ananda  Temple  (from  Yule).    Scale  100  ft.  to  1  in. 


t 


will  be  described  farther  on.  Three 
at  least  of  the  great  temples,  and  a 
few  of  the  smaller  ones,  have  been  from 
time  to  time  repaired,  and  are  still 
more  or  less  frequented  by  worshippers  ; 
but  by  far  the  greater  number  nave 
been  abandoned  to  the  owls  and  bats, 
and  some  have  been  desecrated  into 
cow-houses  by  the  villagers.  The  three 
principal  temples  are  the  Ananda,  the 
Thapinjru,  and  the  Gaudapalin.  The 
Ananda,  as  will  be  seen  from  the 
annexed  plan,  is  a  square  of  nearly  200 
ft.    on    each    side,    with    projecting 


being  intersected  only  by  two  narrow 
concentric  corridors;  but  in  rear  of 
each  projecting  transept  is  a  niche, 
artificially 'lighted  from  above,  in  which 
stands  a  statue  of  Buddha,  more  than 
80  ft.  in  height  These  four  great 
statues  represent  the  four  Budahas 
who  have  appeared  in  the  present 
world  period ;  the  image  to  the  K  is 
Kankathan,  that  to  the  W.,  Kathaha, 
that  to  the  K,  Gaudama,  and  that  to 
the  S.,  Ganugun.     They  are  all  richly 

filt.     The  Ananda  is  supposed  to  have 
een  built  in  the  11th  century,  in  the 


ROUTE  1.      RANGOON  TO  BHAMO 


433 


sign  of  Kyanyittha.  General  Phayre 
erives  its  name  from  the  Sanskrit 
tnaovta,  "The  Endless." 

I^ext  in  importance  is  the  Thapinyu 
the  Omniscient),  erected  about  the  year 
100  by  the  grandson  of  Kyanyittha, 
kiid  third  is  the  Gaudapalin,  built.in 
.160.  These  two  temples  are  of  very 
limilar  form,  but  the  Thapinyu  is  con- 
liderably  larger  than  the  Gaudapalin. 
rhe  height  of  the  Thapinyu  is  201  ft., 


covered  with  niches,  bearing  seated 
Gaudamas  and  interspersed  with  orna- 
mental panels  and  mouldings. 

Among  the  temples  which  have  fallen 
out  of  repair  mav  be  mentioned  the 
DTiamayaiigyi  and  the  Sinbyoku.  The 
former  resembles  the  Ananda  in  general 
plan  and  design.  The  latter  is  in  its 
details  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of 
any.  For  a  description  of  these  and  for 
farther  details  regarding  the  remains 


Plan  of  Thapinyu  (from  Yule).    Scale  100  ft.  to  1  in. 


that  of  the  Gaudapalin  180  ft.  Thev 
differ  from  the  Ananda  in  having  eacn 
only  one  porch  instead  of  four,  and 
consequently  only  one  great  statue  in 
its  cell  instead  of  four  standing  back 
to  back.  A  plan  of  the  Thapinyu  is 
given  above. 

One  other  important  temple  within 
the  city  walls  has  been  kept  in  repair. 
It  is  known  as  the  Bodhi^  and  is  be- 
lieved to  have  been  erected  in  1200. 
It  is  diflferent  in  style  from  the  other 
temples.  The  basement  is  a  quad- 
rangular block  of  no  great  height, 
supporting  a  tall  spire,  strongly  re- 
sembling many  of  the  ancient  Hindu 
temples.  Both  base  and  spire  are 
[Mia] 


at  Pagan  the  traveller  must  be  referred 
to  Yule.  They  are  full  of  interest  both 
to  the  antiquarian  and  the  architect 
Above  and  around  Nyaungu  are  many 
more  temples  and  some  underground 
caves  formerly  inhabited  by  monks, 
which  well  deserve  ii^spection.  One 
of  the  principal  temples  above  Nyaungu 
(the  Eyankku  temple)  has  been  fully 
described  by  the  late  Dr.  Forchhammer 
in  a  monograph  published  by  the 
Burma  Govt.  Press  in  1891.  Pagan 
ceased  to  be  a  capital  in  1284  a.d. 
The  Emperor  of  China  had  sent  a 
vast  army  to  avenge  the  murder  of 
an  ambassador.  The  Burmese  king 
pulled  down  1000  arched  temples,  1000 


434 


BURMA 


smftUer  ones,  and  4000  square  temples, 
to  Btrengthen  the  fortificatlona.  But 
a  prophecy  found  under  one  of  the 
desecrated  bhrines  robbed  him  of  his 
oonra^  and  he  fled  to  the  S.,  and 
ever  since  Pagan  has  remained  in  its 
present  practically  deserted  state. 

The  Irrawaddy  just  below  Pagan 
widens  out  like  a  gigantic  lake  to  over 

2  m.  in  breadth,  ax^  the  view  of  the 
sacred  city  obtained  from  the  steamer 
is  particularly  fine. 

Con  tinning  his  course  down  stream 
past  Salemyo,  the  traveller  will  shortly 
reach  Yeiiang3raiuigi  on  the  £.  bank, 
and,  here  again,  if  time  allows,  and  the 
necessary  arrangements  have  been  made, 
a  halt  is  desirable.  The  oil  wells  are 
situated  about  8  m.  from  the  river 
bank,  and  well  deserve  a  visit.  A 
number  of  wells  are  being  successfiilly 
worked  by  steam  power  on  the  American 
system  by  the  Burma  Oil  Company, 
while,  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  Bur- 
mese continue  to  extract  oil  in  smaller 
quantities  by  the  primitive  methods, 
which  have  been  in  use  among  them 
for  generations.  The  traveller  who  is 
interested  in  the  subject  should  supply 
himself  at  tbe  Govt  l^ess  before  leaving 
Rangoon  with  a  copy  of  Dr.  Noetling*8 
exhaustive  report  on  the  oil  wells  of 
Yenangyaung. 

The  principal  places  of  call  below 
Yenangyaung  are  Magwe  and  Miribu, 
both  headquarters  of  British  districts  ; 
Minhla,  where  there  is  an  old  Burmese 
fort,  which  was  the  scene  of  a  brief 
fight  in  the  last  Burmese  war,  and 
^^ydmyo,  a  military  station,  formerly 
of  some  importance  as  the  frontier 
station  of  British  Burma.  At  Thayet- 
myo  and  thence  to  Prome  the  nver 
scenery  is  good.  At  Prome,  unless  he 
prefers  to  complete  the  journev  to 
Rangoon  by  river,  which  he  pan  ao  in 

3  days>  the  traveller  will  leave  his 
steamer,  and  return  to  Rangoon  by 
train  (9  hours). 

PBOHE,  now  a  town  of  about 
30,000  inhabitants,  and  the  head- 
quarters of  the  district  of  that  name,  is 
a  very  ancient  city,  and  is  mentioned 
as  the  capital  of  a  ((reat  kingdom  before 


IndvA 

akdsN.I 


the  Christian  era.  The  town  ezt^vlsN 
from  the  foot  of  the  Prome  hills  to  ^ 
bank  of  the  Nawin,  with  a  suburb  on 
the  otber  side  of  that  stream,  and  E. 
for  some  distance  up  the  Nawin  valley. 
On  the  bank  of  the  river,  on  the  hi^ 
ground,  opposite  the  centre  of  the  towB, 
are  the  Grovernment  Offices,  the  PuUie 
Gardens,  the  Anglican  Church,  and  the 
Jubilee  Clock  Tower.  The  Strand  Road 
extends  from  one  end  of  the  town  te 
the  other,  and  ftom  it  well  -  laid  -  ont 
streets  run  E.,  and  are  Intersected  at 
right  angles  by  others.  N.  of  the 
high  laterite  ground,  on  which  are 
the  Law  Courte,  and  under  the  high 
bank,  a  sand -bank  stretches  up  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Nawin,  nndi^ 
water  in  the  rains,  but  covered  with 
brokers*  huts  in  the  dry  weather,  when 
a  fleet  of  merchant  boats  is  moored 
along  it,  of  which  many  are  laden  with 
Ngapi,  or  fish  paste,  the  odour  of 
which  pervades  the  whole  Nawin 
(quarter.  Here,  on  the  high  bank,  a 
little  inland,  and  on  the  inner  side  of 
the  Strand,  are  the  Markets. 

The  Shwesandaw  Pagoda  is  on  a 
hill  i  a  m.  from  the  L  bank  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  and  covers  an  area  of 
11,925  sq.  ft.,  rising  from  a  nearly 
square  platform  to  a  height  of  180 
ft.  It  is  surrounded  by  83  small 
gilded  temples.  These  unite  at  th^ 
bases,  and  form  a  wall  round  the 
pagoda,  leaving  a  narrow  passage 
between  it  and  them.  There  are  4 
approaches. to  the  platform  on  which 
the  pagoda  stands.  The  N.  and  W. 
are  covered  in  with  ornamented  roofs, 
supported  on  massive  teak  posts,  some 
partly  gilded  and  partly  painted 
vermilion.  The  platform  on  the 
top  of  the  hill  is  paved  with  stone 
slabs,  and  round  its  outer  edge  are 
carved  wooden  houses,  facing  inwards, 
interspersed  with  small  pagodas,  in 
which  are  figures  of  Gaudama,  standing 
sitting,  or  fying.  Between  these  a^ 
the  main  pagoda  are  many  Tagundaing 
posts  with  streamers,  and  many  large 
bells.  The  pagoda  has  2  gigantic  lions 
of  the  usual  conventional  form,  at  the 
1^,  entrance.  In  1753  A.D.  this  pagoda 
was  re-gilt  by  Alompra;  in  ml, 
King.  Tharrawaddy   had    it    repaired 


ROUTE  2.   RANGOON  TO  MOULMSIN 


4d6 


and  re-gilt,  and  simnouiited  with  a  new 
Ti,  o)r  crown  of  iron,  gilt  and  studded 
with  jewels  ;  in  1842,  the  carved 
roofs  over  the  N.  and  W.  approaches 
were  put  up  by  the  Governor. 
In  1858  the  pagoda  was  again  put 
in  repair  at  a  cost  of  76,800  rs., 
ndaed  by  public  subscriptioni  and 
subsequently  it  was  re-gilt  at  a  cost 
of  26,000x8.  The  annual  festival, 
when  the  pagoda  is  visited  b^ 
thousands  oi  pious  Buddhists,  is 
•held  in  March. 

The  ShwenattMUig  Pagoda. --This 
pagoda,  16  m,  S.  of  Prome,  richly 
gUt,  and  glittering  in  the  sun,  stands 
out  conspicuously  on  the  first  hill  of 
a  low  range^  overhanging  the  Shwe- 
nattaung  plain,  mid  has,  in  a  line 
behind  it,  several  other  pagodas,  all 
which  may  be  visited  by  the  traveller, 
if  not  already  tired  with  buildings 
of  the  kind.  The  Shwenattauug  is 
said  to  have  been  built  during  the 
reign  of  the  founder  of  Prome  by  his 
Queen.  It  was  repaired  and  raised 
by-  Thihathu,  King  of  Prome,  and 
a^ain  in  the  16th  centuty  by  Tabin- 
ahweti,  King  of  Toungoo,  who  had 
conquered  Prome. 

Prome  is  celebrated  for  its  gold 
lacquer  work,  small  specimens  of 
which  may  be  purchased  for  a  few 
rupees. 

The  mail  train  leaves  Prome  at 
9  o'clock  at  night»  and  reaches 
Rangoon  at  about  6  o'clock  on  the 
following  morning. 


PwOUTE  2 
From  RANaooN  to  Mottlmein,  with 

POSdiBLE     EXTENSION     TO     TaVOY 
AND  MeRGUI 

MOULMBIN,  a^  the  second  largest 
city  of  BurmS)  is  one  of  the  prettiest 


spots  in  the  provinoe)  and  deserves 
a  vint.  It  is  reached  in  about  8 
hrs.  from  Rangoon,  by  the  steamers 
of  the  B.I.S.N.  Co.,  which  sail  three 
times  a  week,  starting  at  about 
7  in  the  morning.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Amherst  distriet,  and 
of  the  Tenasserim  division.  It  is 
situated  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Salween, 
at  its  junction  with  the  Gyaing  and 
the  Attaran.  Immediately  to  the  W. 
is  Bilugyun,  an  island  107  sq.  m.  in 
extent.  To  the  N.,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Salween,  is  Martabau, 
once  the  capital  of  a  kingdom,  but 
now  a  moderate-shBed  ville^.  Low 
hills,  forming  the  N.  end  of  the 
Taungenyo  range,  run  N.  and  S. 
throng  Moulmein,  dividing  it  into 
2  distinct  portions,  which  touch  each 
other  at  the  N.  base  of  the  hills  on 
the  bank  of  the  Gyaing.  These  are 
crowned  at  intervals  with  pagodas 
in  various  stages  of  preservation, 
from  the  dark  brick  grass  -  covered 
and  tottering  relic  with  its  rusty  and 
falling  Ti,  to  the  white  and  gold 
restored  edifice,  gleaining  in  the  sun- 
light, and  with  monasteries  richly 
ornamented  with  gilding,  colour,  and 
carved  work. 

On  the  W.  are  4  out  of  the  6 
divisions  of  the  town,  which  extends 
N.,  between  the  Salween  and  the 
hills  from  Mopun,  with  its  steam 
mills  for  husking  rice,  and  timber 
and  ship  •  building  yards,  to  the 
military  cantonment  on  the  point 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Gyaing 
and  the  Salween  opposite  Martaban, 
a  distance  of  6  m.  The  breadth  no- 
where exceeds  1200  yds.  The  view 
from  the  hills  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  is  of  great  beauty,  probably 
unsurpassed  in  all  Burma.  W.  the 
foreground  is  occupied  by  trees  of 
every  shade  of  foliage,  from  the  dark 
olive  of  the  mango  to  the  light 
green  of  the  pagoda  tree,  varied  by 
the  graceful  plumes  of  the  bamboo 
with  buildings  showing  here  and  there, 
and  the  magnificent  sheet  of  water 
beyond,  studded  with  green  islands., 
amon^  which  stands  out  conspicuously 
the  little  rooky  Gaungsekwin,  com< 
plstely  occapied  by  white  siid  gHtte^ 


v436 


BURMA 


India 


ing  pagodaflb  and  a  monastery  aheltered 
by  trees,  and  in  the  distance  are  the 
forest  -  clad  hills  of  Bilugynn  and 
Martaban.  E.  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills  is  a  large  and  regularly  laid  out 
town,  on  the  edge  of  a  rice  plain, 
from  which,  beyond  the  Attarau,  rise 
isolated,  fantastically  shaped  ridges 
pf  limestone,  in  part  bare,  and  else- 
where with  jagged  peaks,  partially 
poncealed  by  straggling  clamps  of 
vegetation,  and  in  the  extreme  distance 
a  uiint  blue  outline  of  the  frowning 
Davna  hills.  To  the  N.  are  the 
Zwekabin  rocks  of  limestone,  13  m. 
long,  while  to  the  S.  rise  the  dark 
Taungwaing  hills,  their  sombre  colour 
relieved  by  a  glistening  white  pagoda 
and  monasteries  on  their  side ;  wind- 
ing through  the  plain  like  silver 
bands  are  the  Gyaing  and  Attaran. 

The  population  of  Moulmein  is 
about  66,000.  It  formerly  rivalled 
Rangoon  in  population  and  trade, 
but  has  now  fallen  far  behind.  In 
1892-93  the  trade  of  the  port  was 
valued  at  rs.  33,000,000.  Moulmein 
is  largely  dependent  on  the  timber 
trade,  and  obtains  its  teak  mainly 
from  Earenni  and  ChiengmaL  The 
forests  have  been  overworked,  and 
the  supply  of  timber  is  falling  off. 
Moulmein  is  noted  for  carving  on 
wood,  ivory,  and  cocoa-nut  shell.  The 
show-room  of  the  jail  is  worth  a  visit. 
The  traveller  will  no  doubt  visit  some 
of  the  pagodas  and  monasteries  which 
abound  here  as  elsewhere  in  Burma, 
and  if  he  visits  the  Eyaikthaalan 
Pagoda,  should  notice  the  big  bell 
with  its  quaint  English  inscription, 
"This  Bell  is  made  by  Koonalenga, 
the  priest,  and  weight  600  viss.  No  one 
body  design  to  destroy  this  Bell. 
Moulmein,  March  80,  1865.  He  who 
destroyed  to  this  Bell,  they  must  be 
in  the  great  Heell,  and  unable  to 
coming  out."  This  is  probably  the 
only  bell  in  Burma  bearing  an  English 
inscription.  The  pagoda  is  the  largest 
in  Moulmein,  and  is  162  ft.  high  and 
377  ft.  in  circumference.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  originally  erected  about  1000 
years  ago. 

The  only  other  pagoda  deserving 
special  mention  ia  the  9siiift»  or  south 


pagoda,  in  the  prednots  of  which  are 
some  remarkably  well  carvod  figures  of 
life-size,  representing  the  three  objects, 
the  sight  of  which  determined  Gandama 
to  become  a  hermit,  namely,  a  decrepit 
old  man  leaning  on  a  staff,  a  man 
suffering  from  a  loathsome  disease, 
and  a  putrid  corpse.  There  are  also 
figures  of  an  old  man  and  woman,  and 
one  of  a  recluse  in  yellow  garments, 
with  features  expressive  of  content- 
ment and  absence  of  worldly  care. 
The  figures  are  startlingly  life-like. 

The  traveller  should  not  leave  Moul- 
mein without  paying  a  visit  to  some 
at  least  of  the  Caves  in  the  neighbour- 
hood.    The  principal  caves  are — 

1.  The  Farm  ea/ves,  about  10  m.  from 
Moulmein  on  the  Attaran  river. 

2.  The  Dcmmuxtha  came^  18  m.  from 
Moulmein  on  the  Gyaing  river. 

3.  The  Pagab  ca/ves  on  the  Salween 
river,  26  m.  from  Moulmein. 

4.  The  Kogun  caA)e8  ontYie  Eogun 
creek  near  Pagat,  28  m.  from  Moul- 
mein. 

6.  The  Bingyi  caves  on  the  Don- 
dami,  51  m.  from  Moulmein. 

All  of  these,  except  the  last  named, 
are  within  an  easy  day's  journey  of 
Moulmein,  there  and  back  by  steam 
launch ;  but  none  of  them  Are  much 
visited  except  the  Farm  caves,  of  which 
a  brief  description,  condensed  frt>m  an 
article  by  Mig'or  Temple  in  the  Indian 
Antiquary  for  December  1893,  will  now 
be  giveai.  For  a  description  of  the  re- 
maining caves,  reference  should  be 
made  to  the  above  article. 
^The  best  way  of  visiting  the  Farm 
caves  is  to  take  a  hackney  carriage 
to  the  Nyaungbinzeik  ferry  on  the 
Attaran  river,  about  4  m.,  then  to 
cross  the  ferry,  and  thence  proceed 
the  remaining  4  m.  by  bullodc-cart 
The  caves  are  a  favourite  resort  for 
picnic  parties,  both  of  the  European 
and  of  the  native  population,  and  there 
is  no  difficulty  about  the  journey.  The 
Burmese  name  is  Kaywa,  The  caves 
are  situated  in  isolated  hills  of  lime- 
stone, which  rise  picturesquely  and 
abruptly  out  of  the  surrounding  aUuvisl 
plain.  They  were  evidently  excavated 
by  the  sea,  and  are  full  of  stalactites 
and  stalagmites.    The  principal  eavi 


BOUTB  3.       RANGOON  TO  KTAUKPYU  AND  AKTAB 


437 


consists  of  an  entrance -hall  running 
parallel  with  the  face  of  the  rock,  a 
long  hall  runnins  into  the  rock  at  the 
S.  end,  and .  a  subsidiary  entrance  and 
hall  at  the  N.  end.  Along  these  halls 
ran  brick  and  plaster  platforms  erected 
for  images  of  Gaudama  and  his  wor- 
shippers. Near  the  S.  entrance,  and 
in  the  entrance-hall,  are  small  pagodas, 
and  near  the  N.  entrance  is  a  ti  of  inter- 
esting construction.  The  whole  of  the 
caves  were  clearly  at  one  time  crammed 
with  images  of  all  sizes,  materials,  and 
ages,  as  are  to-day  some  of  the  caves 
further  from  Moulmein.  M&^  of 
these  have  been  destroyed.  There 
remain,  however,  several  huge  recum- 
bent figures  of  Gaudama,  one  measur- 
ing 45  ft.  in  length,  and  others  not 
mnch  less,  sitting  figures  of  various 
sizes,  and  small  figures,  mostly  muti- 
lated. Some,  of  the  stalactites  have 
been  ornamented,  and  all  over  the 
sides  of  the  cave  and  its  roof  are  signs 
of  former  ornamentation  with  small 
images  of  plaster,  painted  white  and 
red,  and  made  of  terra -cotta.  The 
best  preserved  of  them  are  hiffh  up  on 
the  S.  wall  at  the  deep  ena  of  the 
principal  hall,  where  a  number  of 
worshippers  are  represented  kneeling 
opposite  one  of  the  huge  recumbent 
Gaudamas,  and  in  the  roof  near  the 
entrance. 

From  Moulmein  the  traveller  may, 
if  he  pleases,  extend  his  joum^  to 
Tdvoy  and  Mergui,  to  which  places 
the  B.  I.  S.  N.  Co.  run  a  weekly 
steamer.  Unless,  however,  he  is  pro- 
ceeding to  the  Straits  he  will  prob- 
ably find  that  this  journey  will  occupy 
more  time  than  he  can  devote  to  it. 
Tavoy,  the  headquarters  of  the  district 
of  that  name,  is  a  town  of  16,000  in- 
habitants, on  the  Tavoy  river,  about 
30  m.  from  its  mouth.  The  town  lies 
low,  and  parts  of  it  are  fiooded  at  high 
tide,  and  swampy  during  the  rains. 
It  is  laid  out  in  straight  streets,  and 
the  houses  are,  for  the  most  part,  built 
of  timber  or  bamboo.  To  the  E.  and 
W.  ranges  of  hiUs  nm  nearly  due  N. 
and  S.,  and  the  surrounding  land  is 
under  rice  cnltivation.  Tavoy  oon- 
tftins  court -boniaes,  a  custom-house, 


and  the  usual  public  offices,  besides 
numerous  pagodas  and  monasteries  of' 
no  special  interest.  Its  trade  is  of 
little  importance,  and  is  carried  on 
chiefly  with  ports  in  Burma  and  the 
Straits  Settlements. 

The  trip  from  Tavoy  to  Mergui  is  in- 
teresting, inasmuch  as  it  passes  through 
the  MergxU  archipelago— a  large  sroup 
of  islands  which,  commencing  in  the  Ih. 
with  Tavoy  island,  stretches  southwards 
beyond  the  limits  of  British  territory 
in  Burma.  They  have  been  described 
as  ''  a  cluster  of  islands  and  islets  with 
bays  and  coves,  headlands  and  high- 
lands, capes  and  promontories,  high 
bluffs  and  low  shores,  rocks  and  sands, 
fountain  streams  and  cascades,  moun- 
tain, plain,  and  precipice,  unsurpassed 
for  their  wild  fantastic  and  pictureso^ne 
beauty."  They  are  but  sparsely  m- 
habited,  and  are  the  resort  of  a  peculiar 
race,  the  Selungs,  who  rarely  leave 
them  to  visit  the  mainland.  The  prin- 
cipal products  are  edible  birds'  nests 
and  hichea  de  imt.  The  islands  are 
infested  by  snakes  and  wild  animals.' 
Mergni  itself,  the  chief  town  of  the 
district  of  that  name,  stands  on  an 
island  in  the  principal  mouth  of  the 
Tenasserim  river,  which  falls  into  the 
Bay  of  Bengal  about  2  m.  N.  of  the 
town.  It  has  a  population  of  10,000, 
consisting  of  many  races.  It  promises 
to  acquire  additional  importance  from 
the  recent  discovery  of  valuable  pearl 
beds  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Tin 
mining  is  also  carried  on  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  district.  The  traveller 
who  can  spare  the  time  should  inspect 
the  pearl-diving  and  the  mining  opera- 
tions. The  town  itself  contains  little 
of  special  interest 


ROUTE  3 

Rangoon  to  Kyaukpyu  and 
Aktab 

The   traveller  who    desires   to   see 
something  of  the  Arrakan  divisio&i  or' 


4S8 


BURMA 


India 


who  ia  prooeeding  from  Bangoon  to 
Caloatta,  mnd  has  a  week  to  spare,  may 
prooeed  by  B.I.S.N.  Oo/s  steamer 
(weekly)  to  Kyankpyn  and  Akyab. 

Kyankpyn  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  district  of  that  name.  It  was 
formerly  a  British  cantcmment,  but  the 
troops  haye  been  withdrawn,  and  it  ia 
now  a  plaoe  of  little  interest  or  import- 
ance. It  is  situated  in  the  N.  of 
Ramri  island,  and  the  town  lies  dose 
to  the  seashore,  upon  a  sandy  plain, 
bounded  on  the  S.  W.  by  a  low  ranfle 
of  sandstone  hills,  which  breaks  the 
severity  of  the  monsoon.  The  whole 
tract  is  lined  with  mangrove  jungles, 
and  the  plaoe  is  very  unhealthy.  The 
town  contains  the  usoal  public  build- 
ings, but  nothing  of  special  interest. 

Aky&b  is  a  plaoe  of  more  importance, 
and  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Arrakan 
division,  and  the  third  seaport  of 
Bunna.  Originally  a  Magh  fishing 
village,  Akyab  dates  its  prosperity  from 
the  time  when  it  was  chosen  as  the 
chief  station  of  the  Arrakan  province 
at  the  close  of  the  first  Burmese  war 
(1826).  It  has  now  a  population  of 
40,000,  and  a  trade  amounting  in  1892- 
93  to  8,000,000  ra.  It  contains  the 
usual  public  buildings  and  several 
large  rice  mills.  A  pleasant  excursion 
TMj  be  made  to  Vjchaxaig,  the  ancient 
capital  of  Arrakan,  60  miles  up  the 
Kaladan  river,  whore  the  remains  of 
the  old  town  are  still  to  be  seen.  The 
ruins  of  the  ancient  fort  still  exist,  wi& 
traces  of  the  massive  city  wall  and  the 
platform  on  which  the  old  palace  stood. 

The  antiquarian  will  find  that 
Mvohaung  is  full  of  interest,  as  also, 
if  he  has  time  to  visit  it,  the  Mahamnni 
pagoda,  some  48  m.  farther  K.  For 
a  description  of  these  remains  he  is 
referred  to  the  reports  of  the  late  Dr. 
Forchhammer,  which  were  issued  by 
the  Burma  Govt.  Press  in  1891,  and  can 
no  doubt  be  procured  in  Rangoon. 
The  Andaw  Bhitthausg  and  Duk- 
hanthein  pagodas,  with  their  dark 
passages,  images,  and  inscriptions,  and 
the  Pittekatfdk  or  ancient  depository 
of  the  BoddMst  scriptures,  are  among 
t)i>e  mott  intareatiBg   to  the   eanuu 


visitor  of  the  remains  at  Myohanng. 
All  are  fully  described  by  Forch- 
hammer. A  trip  may  also  be  made  by 
river  steamer  to  Paletwa,  the  head- 

3uarter8  of  the  Arrakan  hill  tracts 
istrict,  which  is  inhabited  by 
Ohaungthas,  Shandna,  Kwemia,  Chins 
Mros,  and  other  strange  hill  tribes. 


ROUTE  4 
From  Ranooon  to  Bassein  and 

BACK 

This  trip  can  be  made  with  eaae  and 
comfort  in  one  of  the  steamers  of  the 
Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company,  which 
leave  for  Bassein  t^ee  or  four  times  a 
week,  and  may  be  of  interest  to  those 
who  wish  to  see  something  of  the  lower 
readies  of  the  Irrawaddy,  and  of  the 
mode  of  life  of  the  thriving  people  of 
the  delta.  It  may  be  extended  to 
Henzada  and  other  river  stations, 
according  to  the  time  which  the  traveller 
has  at  nis  disposal.  All  necessary 
information  about  times  of  starting, 
places  of  call,  etc,  will  be  readify 
obtainable  at  the  office  of  the  Irrawaddy 
Flotilla  Company  on  the  Strand  Road, 
Rangoon. 

Basiein  is  a  town  of  about  30,000 
inhabitants  and  the  headquarters  of 
the  Irrawaddy  division.  On  the  left 
bank  of  the  nver  on  a  slight  eminence 
stands  the  Shtcemvdaw  pagoda^  now 
in  the  centre  of  a  fort  constructed  by 
the  English,  within  the  walls  of  whid^ 
are  the  court  houses  and  a  public 
garden.  To  the  E.  is  the  Myotiiit 
quarter,  with  two  principal  streets 
running  through  it  E.  ana  W.  about 
a  mile  in  length,  temiinating  in  i 
plain  covered  with  pagodas,  iest3ioiiMi» 
monasteries,  and  massiva  images  ia  ail 
stagea  of  deeay,  whepe  ^9  iaSabitaois 


ROUTE  6.       UP  THE  OHINDWIN  TO  KINDAT 


439 


assemble  for  their  religious  festivals. 
Aci*os8  the  river  is  the  Thinbawgyin 
su'burb,  containing  the  rice  mills  and 
store  yards  of  the  principal  merchants. 
Tliere  are  two  fine  markets  and  a  large 
jail  besides  the  usual  public  buildings. 
Tlie  principal  ptu^odas  are  the  Shwe- 
molcdmo  said  to  nave  been  originally 
erected  by  Asoka  a  few  years  after  the 
death  of  Gaudama ;  the  Tagaung 
pagoda,  the  Thayavmgyaung  pagoda, 
and.  the  Mdhahawdi  pagoda. 


ROUTE  5 

Up  the  Chindwin  to  Kindat 

This  trip  will  take  up  a  cood  deal  of 
time,  and  as  it  contains  little  of  special 
interest  it  is  not  likely  to  be  under- 
taken by  the  ordinary  traveller.  It 
may  be  performed  by  Irrawaddy 
Flotilla  steamer  from  Pakokku,  a  nort 
of  call  some  80  m.  below  Mandalay. 
The  river  scenery  is  good  but  not 
specially  remarkable.  Kindat  is  the 
headcjuarters  of  the  Upper  Chindwin 
district,  but  is  not  otherwise  a  place 
of  any  importance. 


CEYLON 


The  traveller  who  can  choose  his  own 
season  for  visiting  Ceylon  is  warned 
that  March  and  April  are  the  hottest 
months  in  the  year ;  June  and  August 
the  wettest  (on  the  W.  coast) ;  and 
December  and  January  the  most  dis- 
agreeable (on  that  coast)  on  account  of 
the  **  Long-shore  wind." 

The  area  of  the  Island  is  25,000  sq. 
m.,  and  the  pop.  over  3,000,000,  of 
whom  over  2,000,000  are  Cingalese, 
800,000  Tamils,  and  less  than  6000 
pure-bred  Europeans. 

The  Cnmncy  of  the  Island  is  rupees, 
divided,  not  into  annas  as  in  India,  but 
into  cents.  The  nominal  value  of  1  r. 
is  2s.  The  actual  value  fluctuates  be- 
tween Is.  5d.  and  Is.  Id. 

Bapee.  Annas,  India.  Gents,  Ceylon. 

1  =     16       =       100 

Silver  .     ^  =       8       =         60 

SUver  .     i  =       4       =         25 

History. — The  Portuguese  landed  on 
the  Island  in  1505,  and  soon  built  a 
factory  at  Colombo,  which  in  1518 
they  protected  by  a  fort.  They  were 
almost  constantly  at  war  witn  the 
natives,  and  were  several  times  foiled 
in  their  endeavours  to  establish  them- 
selves at  Kandy.  The  Dutch  first 
landed  in  Ceylon  in  1602,  at  Bat- 
ticaloa  on  the  E.  coast,  and  entered 
into  friendly  relations  with  the  native 
government.  In  1638  they  com- 
menced active  operations  against  the 
Portuguese,  in  alliance  with  the  natives. 
The  war  lasted  to  1668,  when  the  Dutch 
remained  masters  of  the  situation.  They 
erected  the  fort  at  Colombo,  which  was 
then  a  verv  important  work,  but  has 
now  been  aemohshed,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  some  few  batteries  on  the  sea  face. 


The  Dutch  were  expelled  by  the  Baf^ 
lish  in  1796.  The  Maritime  Provinos 
were  attached  to  the  Madras  Presidencf 
for  two  years,  after  which  Ceylon  li 
came  a  Chrown  Colony. 

Travelling  in  Ceylon  is,  for  the 
most  part,  comparatively  easy.  The 
roads  are  everywhere  excellent,  and 
the  Rest- Houses  are  far  more  comfort- 
able places  of  abode  than  the  oone- 
sponaing  institutions  in  India.  In  the 
larger  towns,  such  as  BaduUa,  Batoft- 
pura,  Matara,  and  at  some  of  the  sta- 
tions on  the  great  north  road  theyon^ 
in  all  but  name,  hotels ;  but  thetravellir 
is  not  allowed  to  remain  in  them  mm 
than  two  days.  On  aU  the  prindpil 
roads,  they  are  usually  provided  wA. 
bed  and  table-linen,  baths,  tea  and 
dinner-services,  etc.  This  is  not,  how- 
ever, the  case  at  those  on  the  lesB-i»> 
quented  roads,  where  the  B^Hs.  oftat 
mmish  little  more  than  shelter.  Tbs 
coaches  are  usually  crowded,  and  thoft 
who  can  afford  to  do  so  are  stron^j^ 
recommended  to  hire  a  special  ooadi, 
which  can  usually  be  done  at  a  reaaoo- 
able  rate  and  with  little  difficulty. 

"It  is  impossible  to  exa^ratetiM 
natural  beauty  of  Ceylon.    Belted  witik 
a  double  girdle  of  golden  sands  and 
waving  pabn-groves,  the  interior  is  am 
vast  green  garaen  of  nature,  delicioDi^ 
dispc^ed    into    plain    and   highlano, 
valley  and  peak,  where  almost  every- 
thing  grows  known  to  the  tropi« 
world,  under  a  sky  glowing  with  aa 
equatorial  sun,  yet  tempered  by  the 
cool  sea -winds.     Colombo  itself  out- 
side the  actual  town,  is  a  perfect  lal^*  ^ 
rinth    of   shady  bowers  and  flo*"5  ■ 
streams  and  lakes.  •    For   miles  aai  ■, 
miles  you  drive  about  under  arbow 


CEYLON 


^Ti^Ush  Miles 


au-torta 


DRIVES 


441 


of  feathery  bamboos,  broad  -  leaved 
bread-fruit  trees,  talipot  and  areca 
palms,  coooa-nut  groves,  and  stretches 
of  rioe-iieldsy  cinnamon,  and  sugar-cane, 
amid  which  at  night  the  fire-flies  dart 
aboiit  in  glittering  clusters.  The 
lo^w^esthutis  embosomed  in  palm-fronds 
and  the  bright  crimson  blossoms  of  the 
bibiscus ;  while  wherever  intelligent 
cultivation  aids  the  prolific  force  of 
nature,  there  is  enough  in  the  pro- 
fusion of  nutmegs  and  allspice,  of  the 
india-rubbers  and  cinchonas,  of  cannas, 
dracfienas,  orotons,  and  other  wonders 
of  the  Cingalese  flora,  to  give  an  endless 
and  delighted  study  to  the  lover  of 
natare  "  (Sir  Edwin  Arnold). 

Travellers  generally  enter  Ceylon  by 
tbe  PORT  OF  COLOMBO.  3^  The  flash- 
ing light  is  visible  18  m.  at  sea.  It  is 
situated  at  the  S.  end  of  the  harbour, 
and  is  placed  on  the  top  of  the  Clock 
Tower^  where  Chatham  Street  and 
Qneen  Street  join. 

The  Landing -places  and  Cnstom 
House  lie  at  the  S.  end  of  the  harbour, 
T^Mch  receives  the  full  protection  of  a 
magnificent  breakwater.  This  structure, 
the  first  stone  of  which  was  laid  by 
H.E.H.  the  Prinoe  of  Wales  in  1876, 
was  completed  in  1884 :  it  is  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  long,  and  is  formed  of 
concrete  blocks  of  from  16  to  82  tons 
each,  capped  by  a  solid  concrete  mass 
which  rises  to  a  height  of  12  ft.  above 
low -water  level.  It  terminates  in  a 
cironlar  space  62  ft.  in  diameter,  with 
a  second  and  smaller  lighthouse  in  the 
centre,  showing  a  red  light,  visible 
about  half  the  distance  that  the  flash- 
ing light  can  be  seen.  The  area  pro- 
tected by  the  breakwater  is  600  acres, 
one  half  of  which  has  water  more  than 
26  ft.  deep.  The  shallower  portions 
have  been  much  improved  by  dredging. 

The  charge  for  landing  and  embark- 
ing irom  or  to  ,any  vessel  in  the 
harbour  is  J  r.,  or  26  cents,  for  each 
person  between  6  a.m.  and  6  p.m.  ; 
earlier  or  later  it  is  more. 

Close  to  the  Custom  House  are  the 
Grand  Oriental  Hotel,  the  Queen's 
House,  the  Barracks,  and  the  remains 
of  the  Fort. 

The  Grand  Oriental  Hotel  is  close  to 
the  landing-jetty. 


The  traveller  who  intends  to  stop  a 
day  or  two  may  prefer  to  drive  on,  a 
little  more  than  a  mile,  to  the  Galle 
Face  Hotel.  He  will  pass  by  the 
OoverwmeTvt  Offices,  looking  out  on  the 
public  gardens  presented  to  the  City  by 
a  late  Governor  (Lord  Stanmore),  and 
proceeding  between  Queen's  House  on 
his  right  (the  Governor's  residence,  a 
large  but  ugly  mass  of  buildings),  and 
the  new  General  Post  Office  on  the  left, 
he  will  after  passing  the  clock  tower 
and  the  Barracks,  consisting  of  several 
blocks,  built  en  Echelon,  at  a  great  cost 
to  the  Colony,  find  himself  on  the  fine 
open  space  called  the  Oalle  Face,  inter- 
sected oy  the  direct  road  to  Galle. 

Nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  Galle  Face 
Esplanade  is  a  small  fort  recently 
erected,  and  a  little  farther  to  the  S. 
is  the  Oltii>  House,  a  fine  oval  building 
looking  on  the  sea.  About  the  middle 
of  therromenade,  near  the  sea,  is  a  stone 
like  a  milestone,  with  an  inscription 
in  which  Sir  Henry  Ward,  who  made 
it,  recommends  the  walk  to  the  care 
of  his  successors  for  the  use  of  ladies 
and  children. 

The  city  of  Colombo  extends  to  the 
4th  m.  on  the  Galle  road,  and  has  a 
breadth  of  SJ  m.  from  the  sea  to  the 
E.  outskirts.  There  are  over  128,000 
inhabitants. 

Driyes. — Colombo  and  its  neighbour- 
hood aflbrd  scope  for  a  multitude  of 
charming  and  picturesque  drives.  Two 
especially  may  be  mentioned,  one  of 
which  might  be  taken  in  the  morning 
and  the  other  in  the  evening  of  the 
same  day.  The  first  is  recommended 
to  those  who  have  not  yet  seen  any- 
thing of  the  East,  and  to  whom  the 
native  town  of  Colombo  will  aflbrd  a 
pleasing  introduction  to  the  distin- 
guishing characteristics  of  Oriental  life 
and  scenery  ;  but,  excepting  the  latter 
part  of  it,  which  is  preir^,  there  is 
little  in  this  drive  to  interest  one 
already  familiar  with  India. 

(1)  Commence  at  the  Galle  Face 
Hotel,  and  take  the  road  along  the  sea 
past  the  Barracks,  until  the  statue  of 
Sir  E.  Barnes  is  reached.  He  was  Gover- 
nor from  1820-22,  and  from  1824-31. 
Then  turn  to  the  right  past  the 
Bacquet'court  and  an  old  Dutch  belfry, 


448 


GBTLOlf 


jost  beyond  which  are  the  Town  Hall 
and  Fiblk  Markst-pUtm.  Hen  two 
streets  diverse — the  one  to  the  left, 
Sea  Street,  where  dwell  the  dealers  in 
rice  and  cotton,  and  where  are  two 
Hindu  temples,  quaint  and  picturesque, 
but  of  no  great  size  or  importance ;  the 
other,  Wolfendahl  Street,  to  the  right, 
conducts  to  fFolfendahl  Church,  a 
massiye  crucifonn  building  on  high 
ground,  built  by  the  Dutcn  in  1749, 
on  the  site  of  an  old  Portuguese  churoh 
called  Apta  de  Lupo,  and  commanding 
a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  harbour. 
Here  are  monuments  and  hatchments 
reooiding  the  deoeaae  of  Dutch  officiala. 
Thence  the  drive  may  be  continued  in 
aN.E.  direction  to  the  B.O.  (kUhedralof 
St.  Lucia,  adjoining  which  is  a  college 
for  Roman  Catholic  boys,  and  a  convent 
with  school  and  orphanage  attached. 
Then  N.  and  a  little  W.  tne  Anglican 
Cathedral  and  College  qfSt.  Thomas  are 
reached.  They  stand  in  a  park,  given 
by  Dr.  Chapman,  the  first  Bishop. 
About  1  m.  to  the  N.  is  St.  Jamea*8 
Roman  Catholic  Church ;  and  in  driviujg 
there  a  fine  house  called  Uplands  is 
seen  to  the  right,  where  is  a  tortoise, 
said  to  be  more  than  200  years  old, 
and  very  huge.  The  drive  through 
the  suburb  of  Mutwal  is  extrem^y 
picturesque.  It  is  chiefly  inhabited 
by  fishers,  who  are  mostly  Roman 
CJatholics,  as  the  numerous  large  and 
imposing  R.C.  churches  testify.  On 
reaching  the  river  at  the  end  of  the 
long  street  of  Mutwal,  turn  to  the  right, 
and  crossing  a  tongue  of  land  till  the 
river  is  again  reached,  follow  its  bank 
to  the  bridge,  by  whidi  the  ^eat  road 
to  Kandy  crosses  it,  and  which  super- 
sedes a  most  picturesque  bridge  of 
boats  which  was  long  one  of  the  most 
attractive  spots  in  Colombo  to  an  artist. 
This  part  of  the  drive  shows  to  per- 
fection the  way  in  which  the  tiny 
houses  and  small  churches  are  so 
nestled  under  the  shelter  of  the  trees 
as  to  be  altogether  invisible  from  above. 
Turning  to  the  right  at  the  bridge, 
follow  the  dusty  and  ever-crowded  *'St. 
Joseph"  or  "Grand  Pass"  Road  till 
Skinner's  Road  is  reached.  Turn  left 
along  it  under  a  fine  avenue  of  Madras 
thorn,  till  the  railway  station  at  Maran 


dana  is  reached,  and  thenoe  follow  tiic 
side  of  the  fresh-water  lake,  across  whidi 
good  views  may  be  obtained,  till  (kUe 
Face  is  once  more  reached. 

(2)  The  second  drive  conunences  by 
crossing  the  bridge  firom  Galle  Face, 
almost  immediately  behind  the  hotel, 
to  Slave  Island,  and  then  driving  alnig 
the  edge  of  a  beautiful  freshwat^  lake 
past  the  pretty  residence  of  the  General 
oommanaing  the  troops  in  Ceylon,  to 
the  Victoria  Park.  The  traveller 
should  not  omit  to  notice  a  pietorenne 
little  Buddhist  temple  oa  the  otiur 
side  of  the  lake  nearly  opposite  tiie 
General's  house.  The  ParK  oocupieB 
the  site  of  the  old  CtBnamon  Oaidfloi, 
and  is  well  laid  out  with  omamental 

Sounds,  in  the  midst  of  which  a 
useum  was  built  in  1877.  It  is 
exclusively  devoted  to  the  exhibition 
of  Ceylon  products,  antiquities,  and 
natural  history,  and  is  on  tnat  accoont 
all  the  more  interesting  to  a  visitor. 
On  the  basement  are  sonoe  intteresting 
stone  fragments,  and  partienlaily  a 
colossal  lion,  brought  from  PoUonama, 
on  which  the  King  sat  to  administer 
justice,  one  of  the  unique  windows 
from  the  ruins  of  Yapa^oo,  and  the 
cast  of  a  portrait  colossal  statue  of 
King  Prakrama  Bahu,  A.D. ,  1153.  The 
entrance-hall  is  handsome,  and  to  the 
right  of  it  is  a  library,  to  which  the 
pubUc  have  access  from  6.30  to  10 
A.M.,  and  from  3  to  5  p.m.  In  front 
of  the  Museum  is  a  statue  of  the  Rt 
Hon.  Sir  W.  Gregory,  Governor  from 
1871  to  1877. 

Before  leaving  Colombo,  a  visit  may 
be  paid  to  one  of  the  GoflTee  Milk 
And,  on  account  of  the  singularity  of 
the  view  thence  obtained,  no  traveHer 
should  omit  to  mount  to  the  summit 
of  the  Great  Beserooir,  from  which 
Colombo  is  supplied  with  water.  A 
city  of  over  180,000  people  lies  at  the 
spectator's  feet,  but,  except  for  a  few 
towers  and  domes,  it  is  invisible,  the 
whole  being  concealed  by  the  mass  of 
vegetation  which  overshadows  it. 

Exenr8ion8.-~One  of  the  pleasantest 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Colombo 
is  that  to  a  Buddhist  temple  at 
the  village  of  Kelaul,  2  m.  up  the 
river    of     the     same     name.      Fw 


BOUTE  1.       OOLGMBO  TO  KANDT 


443 


through  the  hot  and  dusty  Pettah, 
or  native  town,  for  about  4  m.,  as  far 
as  the  riyer,  which  is  crossed  by  a 
Mdeous  iron  bridge,  superseding  a 
lii^hly  picturesque  Bridge  of  Boats,  the 
reoent  destruction  of  which  must  be  a 
matter  of  regret  to  all  possessing  artistic 
tastes.  After  crossing  the  bndge  the 
road  passes  through  coooa-nut  groves 
and  among  the  houses  of  the  dense 
population  for  another  2  m.,  when 
the  temple  itself  is  reached.  The 
Mahamanao  refers  to  it  as  oontemnoraTy 
i¥ith  Buddha.  The  original  dagoba  was 
built  at  a  very  early  period,  but  the  one 
that  is  now  stanmng  was  oonstructed 
between  the  years  1240-67  a.d.,  and 
rebuilt  about  1301  a.d.  It  stands  on 
the  river -bank,  and  is  handsomely, 
though  gaudily,  decorated.  According 
to  the  Colombo  Guide,  it  stands  on  the 
site  of  a  shrine  erected  by  Prince 
Yatalatissa,  806  B.O.  A  groat  festival 
takes  place  here  at  the  mil  moon  of 
May,  and  lasts  four  days. 

None  of  the  ezclusiveness  which  dis- 
tin^^uishes  Hindu  and  Mohammedan 
shnnes  is  to  be  found  in  the  Buddhist 
temples,  to  every  part  of  which  a 
stranger  is  freely  welcomed  by  the 
yellow-robed  monks.  This  however, 
does  not  apply  to  the  dewalas,  which 
are,  strictly  speaking,  Hindu  shrines 
attached  to  Buddhist  temples.  Though 
strangers  are  free  to  enter  these,  their 
ixmer  recesses  stand  closed. 

A  favourite  excursion  by  train  is  to 
Mount  Lavinia,  7  m.  from  Colombo 
(see  p.  424). 

Tnpe  to  Kaduwella  (see  p.  449)  and 
'to  Kotta,  where  there  is  a  College  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society,  prettily 
situated,  may  also  be  taken. 


ROUTE  1 
Colombo  to  Kaiuby 

(By  rail  76  m.) 
The  line  on  leaving  Colombo  passes 
first  through  portions  of  the  Cinnamon 
Gardens,  and  then  crosses  the  river 
Kelani  by  a  very  fine  girder  bridge. 
To  those  who  have  never  before  visited 
the  tropics  this  journey  will  be  full  of 
iBteFest    They  will  see  for  the  first 


time  vast  stretches  of  paddy  laud  of  the 
most  vivid  green,  the  unfamiliar  but 
soon  recognised  forms  of  the  cashew, 
the  bread  fruit,  the  jak,  the  frangi- 
pani,  and  the  various  forms  of  |>alm — 
cocoa-nut,  areca,  kitool,  and  above  all 
the  talipot,  a  specimen  of  the  gigantic 
flower  of  which  is  generally  visible  at 
some  point  on  the  journey. 

At  9  m.  mahara  sta.  is  the  quarry 
junction.  It  was  from  hence  tiiat  the 
stone  was  brought  for  the  construction 
of  the  breakwater. 

16  m.  Henaratgoda  sta.  f  m.  from 
this  station  are  the  Government  Tropi- 
cal Gardens,  planted  for  experiments  in 
trees  and  plants  which  could  not  be 
expected  to  thrive  in  the  higher  eleva- 
tion of  Eandy.  Amongst  the  species 
that  may  be  studied  in  them  are  many 
varieties  of  the  tropical  caoutchouc,  or 
rubber-giving  trees,  and  plants  from 
West  Africa,  South  America,  and  Pana- 
ma, gutta-percha  trees  from  the  Malay 
Peninsula,  Trinidad  cacao,  and  Liberian 
cofiee.  From  this  place  onward  for 
some  16  ul  the  country  is  covered  with 
cocoa-nut  trees  to  an  extent  not  to  be 
seen  in  many  other  localities. 

34  m.  Ambepussa  sta.,  the  line  here 
enters  the  lower  hills,  and  is  considered 
to  pass  through  some  of  the  most  un- 
healthy country  in  the  island.  The 
mortality  was  terrible  when  the  original 
cart-road  was  made  from  Colombo  to 
Eandy;  but  in  constructing  the  railway 
this  was  to  some  degree  avoided  by  tak- 
ing the  labourers  back  to  Colombo 
every  night. 

45  m.  Polgahawelajunc.  sta.,  241  ft. 
above  sea-leveL 

[From  hence  a  bzanch  rail-road  runs 
N.  11  m.  to  Kurunegala(R.H.),  the  chief 
town  of  the  North- Western.  Province. 

Kurunegala  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  a  remarkable  rock  which  starts  up 
alone  in  the  plain, — an  enormous  black 
boulder,  over  1000  feet  in  height. 
Similar  isolated  rooks  are  hot  uncom- 
mon in  different  parts  of  the  Province. 
From  the  top  of  the  "  Bock  of  Kurune- 
gala "  a  noble  view  is  to  be  obtained. 
At  its  foot  is  an  artificial  lake  which  is 
used  for  irrigation  purposes.  From 
Kurunegala  there  are  good  roads  S.W. 
I  to  Negombo,  and  N.  W.  to  Puttalam 


444 


OMSILOV 


(see  Rte.  6).  18  m.  from  Ennmegala 
on  the  ktter  road  is  Wariyapola 
(R.H.),  10  m.  N.  of  which,  a  few  miles 
off  a  cross-road  to  Anoradhapura,  is  Ya- 
pahoo,  one  of  the  most  piotor^ne  and 
carions  of  the  remains  of  antiquity  in 
Ceylon.  It  was  at  one  time  the  abode 
of  the  sacred  tooth,  and  the  mins  of 
the  Mdlagawa,  standing  at  the  head  of 
a  great  fl^ht  of  steps,  are  quite  unique. 
Its  tracened  windows,  one  of  whicn  ia 
in  the  Museum  at  Colombo,  are  espe- 
cially curious.  A  few  miles  N.E.  of 
Kumnegala  is  the  Bldl  (or  alver) 
Vihare,  a  very  ancient  Buddhist 
monastery,  most  picturesquely  situated 
at  a  considerable  elevation. 
The  road  from  Kumnegala  to  Ne- 

S>mbo,  passing  through  Narammula, 
ambadeniya,  Giriulla,  and  Welli- 
hinda,  is  very  pleasing  fit>m  its  varying 
character  and  constant  succession  of 
woodlands,  paddy  fields  and  cocoa-nut 
groves.  At  Dambadeniya  is  a  large 
and  famous  temple,  close  to  which  is  a 
high  and  apparently  inaccessible  iso- 
lated rock,  on  which,  according  to 
tradition,  prisoners  were  confined. 

10  m.  S.  of  Polgahawela  is  Kegalla 
(KH.),  a  small  town  in  a  most  lovely 
pit'iition,  and  encompassed  by  the 
most  delightful  scenery.] 

52  in.  Bambnkkana  sta.  Here  the 
glial  ascent  commences  at  an  elevation 
of  318  ft.,  and  ascends  12  m.  with  a 
gradient  of  1  in  46  to  an  elevation  of 
1698  ft.  The  vegetation  is  here  of  great 
richness  and  beauty. 

65  m.  Kadugannawa  sta.  is  at  the 
top  of  the  pass.  On  the  way  up  three 
telegraph  stations  are  passed,  and  the 
beautiral  scenery  and  mcreasing  cool- 
ness of  the  air  make  the  journey  most 
enjoyable.*  Near  the  top  of  the  moline« 
the  road  constructed  by  Sir  Edward 
Barnes  is  seen  on  the  right,  winding  up 
the  hill.  The  two  roads  reach  the 
summit  of  the  pass  at  the  same  spot, 
and  there  a  column  has  been  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Captain  Dawson,  the 
engineer  of  the  first  road.  Just  over 
the  station  is  the  Hillof  Belungala(the 
Watchers'  Rock),  2548  ft,  alwve  sea- 
level,  from  which,  in  the  troubled  days 
of  old,  a  watch  was  kept  to  report  an 
enemy  advancing  frt>m  the  plains. 


71  m.  Peradttiiya  junc  sta.  Tbis 
place  is  186  ft  lower  than  the  top  of 
the  pass.  The  main  line  oonUnaeB 
S.,  whilst  the  branch  line  to  Eaady 
and  Matale  strikes  N.  At  this  pUoe 
a  loop  of  the  MahaweUi  Qanga  riyer 
nearly  surrounds  the  beautiful  SoyiLl 
Botanic  Oardens,  which  are  near  the 
rulway  station,  and  less  than  4  m.  from 
Eandy  by  road,  through  a  suburb  in 
which  every  house  is  surrounded  by  a 
garden  of  cocoa-nut  palms,  bread-fifoit 
trees  and  coffee  bushes,  and  bright 
tropical  shrubs.  Near  the  entrance  to 
the  Botanic  Qardens  is  a  noble  avenie 
of  india-rubber  trees  (Ficusdastion)^  and 
on  entering,  a  croup  of  palms  is  sea 
unsnrpaasea  in  beauty  and  grandsor. 
Amongst  the  exotio  species  is  the  won- 
derful Coco  demer  of  the  Seychelles.  In 
size  its  fruit  exceeds  that  of  the  ordinal^ 
cocoa-nut  many  times,  with  the  peonh* 
arity  of  a  double  and  sometimes  triple 
formation.  Formerly,  medicinid  virtues 
were  ascribed  to  it,  and  the  Emperor 
Bodolph  II.  offered  4000  florins  for  a 
single  specimen.  The  Gardens  cover 
nearly  150  acres,  and  overlook  the 
noble  river  that  encircles  them  on  three 
sides.  In  them  are  orchids  and  flower- 
ingcreepers,  ipomoeas  and  bignoniB8,the 
BoAiMniol,  socmdens  and  raeemoaa,  which 
resembles  the  chain  cable  of  a  man-of- 
war.  There  is  a  monument  in  the 
grounds  to  Dr.  Gardiner,  and  another 
to  Dr.  Thwaites,  both  able  Direotois 
of  the  institution.  Ko  attempt  is 
here  made  to  describe  these  beaatifbl 
Gardens,  as  an  admirable  hand-guide 
can  be  bought  at  the  gates  for  25  cents ; 
they  are  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  spots 
in  the  East  The  fruit  of  the  dnriui 
and  the  mangosteen  are  to  be  found  in 
perfection  in  these  gardens.  A  tea- 
garden  and  factory  may  be  visited 
opposite  the  railway  station. 

75  m.  EAND7  sta.  aQc  The  capital 
of  the  former  kincdom  of  Kandy,  1680 
ft.  above  sea -level,  pop.  22,000. 

History. — ^The  first  mention  of  Kandy 
as  a  city  is  at  the  beginning  of  the  14tii 
century,  when  a  temple  was  built  thcPB 
to  contain  Buddha's  tooth  and  otiier 
relics.  From  possessing  these,  it  be- 
came an  important  seat  of  the  Buddhist 
hierarchy,  and  eventually  the  i 


BOUTB  2.      00]  OMBO  TO  B^TTIOALOA 


445 


•f  l>Tanclies  of  the  royal  family ;  but 
t   -was  not  till  the  close  of  the  16th 
entjixry   that  it  was  adopted  as  the 
lapital  of  the  island,  after  the  destruc- 
ion    of  Eotta,  and  the  defeat  of  Raja 
^in^lia  II.  by  Wimala  Dharma  in  1692, 
■yuring  the  wars  between  the  Portu- 
gese and  Dutch,  Eandy  was  so  often 
3Timed  that  scarcely  any  of  the  ancient 
i^Uildiiigs  except  the  temples  and  the 
royal  residence  were  remaining  when 
tlie     English  took   it  in  1815.      The 
JPaJcLce,  a  wing  of  which  is  still  occupied 
by  "tlie  chief  civil  officer  of  the  Province, 
was    bnilt  by  Wimala  Dharma  about 
1600  A.D.,  and  the  Portuguese  prisoners 
^were  employed  in  erecting  it.  This  gave 
a  European  character  to  the  architecture 
of  some  jportions,  such  as  the  octagon 
tower  adjoining  the  Malagawa  Temple. 
That    temple,    in    which    the    sacred 
tooth  is  deposited,  well  deserves  a  visit. 
There  are  many  jewels  and  ornaments 
of  interest  in  the  shrine,  the  brazen 
doors  of  which  merit  observation.    The 
octagon  contains  a  fine  oriental  library. 
Description. — Kandyispicturesquely 
situated  on  the  banks  of  a  miniature 
lake,  overhung  on  all  sides  by  hills. 
A    road  called  Lady  Horton's  Walk 
winds  round  one  of  those  hills,  and  on 
the  £.  side,  which  is  almost  precipitous, 
looks  down  on  the  valley  of  Dumbera, 
through  which  the  McJiawelli  Qanga 
rolls  over  a  channel  of  rocks,  "  present- 
ing a  scene  that  in  majestic  beauty  can 
scarcely  be  surpassed.    In  a  park  at  the 
foot  of  this  acclivitv  is  the  pavilion  of 
the  Governor,  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
edifices  in  India,  not  less  from  the 
beau^  of  the  architecture  than  from  its 
judicious  adaptation  to  tiie  climate" 
(Tennent,  vol.  ii.  p.  208).    Serpents  are 
numerous  here,  especially  the  cobra  and 
carawilla.     The  large  black  scorpion, 
as  big  as  a  crayfish,  is  also  found  here. 
The  "sacred  tooth,"  was  brourfit  to 
Ceylon  a  short  time  before  Fa  Hian's 
arrival  in  811   A.D.,  in  charge  of  a 
princess  of  Kalinga,  who  concealed  it 
in  the  folds  of  her  hair.     It  was  taken 
by  the  Malabars  about  1815  A.D.,  and 
again  carried  to  India,  but  was  re- 
covered by  Prakrama  Bahu  III.      It 
was  then  hidden,   but   in    1560  was 
discovered  by  the  Portuguese,  taken  to 


Goa  by  Don  Constantine  de  Braeanza, 
and  burned  by  the  archbishop  m  the 
presence  of  the  Yiceroy  and  lus  court. 
Wikrama  Bahu  manufactured  another 
tooth,  which  is  a  piece  of  discoloured 
ivory  2  in.  long  and  less  than  1  in.  in 
diameter,  resembling  the  tooth  of  a 
crocodile  rather  than  that  of  a  man. 
It  now  reposes  on  a  lotus  flower  of  pure 
gold,  hidden  under  seven  concentric 
bell-shaped  metal  shrines  increasing  in 
richness  as  they  diminish  in  size,  and 
containing  jewels  of  much  beauty." 

An  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  to  three  Buddhist  temples  situ- 
ated near  each  other  at  a  little  distance 
from  Eandy  — Oadaladenya,  Galan- 
golla,  and  Laaka  Telika.  Each  is  curi- 
ous in  a  different  way.  One  is  a  modem 
temple,  very  well  kept  up,  and  situ- 
ated most  romantically  amonff  huge 
boulders  of  rock ;  the  second  is  very 
andent,  but  in  the  last  stage  of  neglect, 
decay,  and  dilapidation ;  the  third, 
Lanka  Telika,  is  remarkable  al&e  for  its 
situation  on  the  top  of  a  rock  and  for  the 
character  of  its  architecture,  which  is 
very  unlike  that  of  any  other  temple  in 
Ceylon.  The  best  mode  of  performing 
this  expedition  is  to  drive  5  m.  out  on 
the  road  to  Eadugannawa,  and  thence 
send  the  carriage  back  to  a  point  9  m. 
on  the  road  to  Gampola,  riaing  across 
from  one  of  these  points  to  the  other 
by  the  bridle-path  on  which  the  temples 
are  situated. 

There  are  many  other  pleasant  drives 
and  rides  to  be  taken  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Eandy.  The  extensive  planta- 
tions of  cacao  on  the  banks  of  the 
Mahawelli  Ganga,  a  few  miles  below 
Eandv,  deserve  a  visit. 

A  local  guide  to  Eandy  by  Mi*.  S. 
M.  Burrows  of  the  Civil  Service  may 
be  consulted  with  advantage. 


ROUTE  2 

Colombo  to  Nuwara  Eliya, 
Badulla,  and  Batticaloa 

(Rail  to  Nuwara  Eliya,  or  Haputale;  coach 
to  Badulla ;  special  carriage  to  Batticaloa 
—total  distance  274  m.) 

This  route  so  far  as  Peradeniya  junc- 
tion is  the  same  as  Rte.  1.    From  that 


44« 


CITLOK 


point  the  stations  are  on  a  oonstantly 
rifling  leyel  to 

108  m.  HattM  sta.,  4141  ft  above 
the  sea. 

[From  Hatton  the  aseent  of  AdAm'i 
Peak,  the  most  celebrated  though  not 
the  highest  mountain  in  Ceylon,  is 
most  easily  made.  The  traveller  can 
drive  as  far  as  Lasoapaiut  (R.H.) 
where  there  is  a  riding  road  for  3^  m., 
but  no  ponies  for  hii'e.  Chairs  can  be 
arranged  for.  The  asoent  is  steep, 
and  to  those  easily  made  giddy  not 
altogether  safe,  but  English  ladies  have 
been  to  the  summit,  and  it  is  annually 
ascended  by  thousands  of  pilgrims  of 
both  sexes  and  all  ages.  It  is  usual  to 
sleep  in  a  hut  on  the  summit  (7420  ft.), 
in  order  to  see  the  sunrise,  and  the 
wonderful  shadow  cast  by  the  peak, 
which  often  produces  a  singular  optical 
illusion.] 

Hatton  is  also  the  point  from  which 
the  great  tea  districts  of  Diokoya  and 
Dimbula  may  be  most  conveniently 
visited.  These  valleys,  formerly  ciele- 
brated  for  their  production  of  coffee, 
are  now  entirely  devoted  to  tea  culti- 
vation. About  the  year  1870  the 
coffee  plantations  were  attacked  by  a 
new  fungus,  BoBmUia  vasUUrix,  which 
choked  the  breathing  pores  of  the 
leaves  and  gradually  e^iausted  the 
energies  of  the  plant.  It  was  at  first 
little  regarded,  but  in  ten  years'  time 
it  had  well-nigh  destroyed  ^e  produe- 
tion  of  coffee,  and  reduced  the  planting 
community  to  a  state  of  ruin.  The 
revenue  of  the  island  fell  from  over 
17,000,000  rs.  in  1877  to  12,161,670 
in  1882,  and  large  numbers  of  the 
wealthiest  proprietors  lost  their  estates, 
or  remained  on  them  merely  as  man- 
agers for  their  creditors.  With  in- 
domitable enerey  the  planting  com- 
munity set  itself  to  work  to  remedy 
the  disaster,  and  by  the  substitution 
of  tea  for  coffee,  they  may  be  said  to 
have  thoroughly  succeeded  in  doing  so, 
though  of  course  not  without  great 
individual  loss  and  suffering.  In  1875 
but  282  lbs.  of  tea  were  exported  from 
Ceylon.  The  export  of  1893  amounted 
to  84,387,656  lbs.,  while  the  revenue 
of  the  colony  now  exceeds  the  amount 
received  in  1877. 


The  valley  of  Maaksliya,  a  moie 
newly-planted  district^  is- separated  Inr 
a  ridge  from  that  of  Dickoya,  to  wbisk 
it  is  paralleL  The  Dimbula  valley  is 
traversed  by  a  road  from  Nawalapitiya 
to  Nuwara  Eliya,  into  which  a  braneii 
road  from  Hatton  leads. 

Beyond  Hatton,  the  line  falls  again 
slightly  to 

116  m.  Talawakdle  sta.,  whence  it 
again  rises  steadily  to 

128  m.  Naanoyasta.,^  5291  ft.  eleva- 
tion, until  lately  the  terminiis  of  the 
line.  It  is  now,  however,  open  to 
Haprntale,  in  the  Uva  Provinoei  26  m., 
and  has  still  more  recently  been  opened 
to  Bandarawelh^  13  mu  further  (see 
p.  422).  On  this  prolongation  is  the 
summit-level  6219  ft.  above  the  sea. 

From  Nanuoya  to  Nuwara  IHiya  is  4^ 
m.  by  a  good  road  with  an  ascent  of  1000 
ft.    All  sorts  of  con veyanees  can  be  had. 

The  village  of  Nuwara  Eliya  4c  is 
6210  ft.  above  the  sea -level.  The 
summer  residence  of  the  Grovemor,  the 
Club,  and  Hotels  are  to  the  N.  W.  of  the 
lake.  In  the  beautiful  dim&te  of  this 
station  expeditions  of  aU  sorts  may  be 
enjoyed.  Some  ordinary  drives  are  here 
mentioned : — 

Bound  the  Moon  Plains,  8  m.  To 
the  top  of  HaTnboda  Pass  and  back,  6 
m.-  Bound  the  Lake  6  m.  Pidaru 
Tala^la,  the  highest  monntaiu  is 
Ceylon  (8280  ft.),  may  be  easily  as- 
cended from  Nuwara  Eliya.  Thae  is 
a  bridle-path  to  the  top,  whence  the 
view  is  extensive,  but  not  specially 
striking. 

A  longer  excursion  is  that  to  the 
Hortoa  Plains,  28  m.  from  Nuwan 
Eliya. 

This  excursion  will  take  at  least  two 
days,  one  to  go  and  one  to  return,  and 
must  be  made  on  horseback.  A  biidle- 
path  through  wild  and  beautiful  scen- 
ery terminates  at  a  large  R.CL,  ia  the 
neighbourhood  of  which,  are  tammeiid- 
ous  precipices,  which  descend  to  the 
great  plain  of  the  Ealu  Qanga. 

Burrows's  FisUors'  Guide  to  Kandg 
a7id  Numara  Eliya  is  a  useful  hand- 

1  Travellers  are  recommended  to  have 
warm  wraps  with  them,  as  the  temperaton 
here  is  rery  much  lower  than  that  of  tie 
plainS)  or  evea  of  Kandy. 


ROUTB  2.      OOLOMBO  TO  BATTIOALOA 


447 


book.  Mnoli  of  the  ground  about 
Nnwara  Eliya  is  open  and  moorlike, 
and  is  thickly  dotted  with  bushes  of 
crimson  rhododendron.  The  eucalyptus 
and  the  Australian  wattle  have  been 
largely  planted  about  Nuwara  Eliya, 
and  give  the  landscape  a  peculiar 
character,  which  has  also  a  somewhat 
Italian  air  imparted  to  it  by  the 
numerous  keena  trees  {Calophylhim 
tatnenipsum)  which,  though  not  a 
conifer,  has  a  ffreat  general  resemblance 
in  its  habit  of  growtii  to  a  stone  pine. 

On  leaving  Nuwara  Eliya,  the  road 
rises  slightly  after  quitting  the  lake, 
and  then  commences  a  continuous  and 
for  the  most  part  very  steep  descent  of 
aereral  thousand  feet.  At  6  m.  from 
ITnwara  EHya  we  reach  the  Botanic 
Oardem  at  Hakgalla,  a  yisit  to  which 
ought  on  no  account  to  be  omitted  by 
any  one  makinc  a  stay,  however  short, 
at  Nuwara  Eliya.  The  visitor  is 
equally  repaid  by  the  beauty  of  the 
views  from  the  Gardens,  and  by  the 
beauty  of  the  Qardens  themselves,  in 
which  all  the  flowers  and  plants  of 
temperate  climates  flourish  freely,  com- 
bined with  much  beautiful  natural 
vegetation.  Behind  the  Gardens  rises 
the  precipitous  wall  of  bare  rook  which 
forms  the  face  of  the  Hakgalla  moun- 
tain, whilst  in  front  the  eround  sinks 
abruptly  to  valleys  and  low  hills  far 
below,  and  backed  in  the  distance  by 
the  mountains  of  Uva.  The  road  con- 
tinues to  descend  very  rapidly  to 

13  m.  Wilson's  Bungalow,  a  eood 
ILH.,  at  which  through  travellers 
to  Badulla  and  Colombo,  who  do  not 
stop  at  Kuwara  Eliya,  usually  sleep. 
Another  sharp  descent  brings  us  to 
Welimadu,  a  small  but  picturesque 
village,  from  which  point  the  road 
begins  again  to  ascend  till  at 

26  m.  Etampitiya,  where  there  is  a 
comfortable  R.H.,  we  are  again  on 
the  same  level  as  Wilson's  Bungalow. 
The  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  struck 
by  the  extent  of  terrace-cultivation  in 
the  valleys  traversed,  the  steepest  hill- 
sides being  fashioned  into  an  endless 
series  of  narrow  terraces,  carefully  irri- 
gated, on  which  abundant  cropMs  of 
paddy  are  grown.  From  Etampitij^a 
the  road  again  falls  oontinuoMly,  until} 


after  passing  JXkwella^  where  it  is 
joined  b}r  the  road  from  Ratnapura  (see 
Rte.  3),  it  reaches 

37  m.  Badnlla  (R.H.),  the  capital  of 
the  Province  of  Uva,  one  of  the  oldest, 
m  est  cheerful,  and  most  attractive  towns 
in  Ceylon.  It  is  situated  on  a  slight 
eminence,  entirely  surrounded  by  ^een 
paddy-flelds,  and  in  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  a  fine  river,  while  on  all 
sides  the  background  is  formed  by 
mountains  of  very  beautiful  outline. 

Beautiful  avenues  of  Ifi^a  saman 
and  other  trees  adorn  the  town,  which, 
besides  the  usual  Government  build- 
ings— Cuteheny,  Government  Agent's 
residence,  ete. — conteins  a  handsome 
Market  and  a  fine  Hospital.  There  is 
also  an  exceedingly  prettv  race-course, 
surrounding  a  small  lake.  Of  the 
ancient  city  few  traces  remain.  Not  a 
vesti^  Ib  to  be  seen  of  the  palace  of 
the  kinfis,  and  scarcely  any  indication 
of  any  buildings  of  considerable  anti- 
quity. There  are,  however,  two  large 
and  wealthy  Buddhist  temples,  the 
MaJia  Vihara  and  the  MaJui  Dewale, 
which,  though  the  present  edifices  are 
of  no  very  great  age,  are  picturesque 
and  worth  a  visit.  They  occupy  ancient 
sites,  and  the  dagoba  at  the  Maha 
Vihara  is  undoubtedly  of  very  early 
origin.  Badulla  is  in  the  centre  of  a 
very  flourishing  group  of  tea-estates. 
Badulla  may  now  also  be  reached  from 
BandaraweUa  by  travellers  who  do  not 
care  to  leave  the  train  at  Nanuoya, 
and  this  route  will  no  doubt  be  taken 
by  those  who  do  not  wish  to  visit 
Kuwera  Eliya,  and  desire  to  reach 
Badulla  in  one  day  from  Colombo  or 
Kandy. 

[A  very  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  hence  to  Alntttnwora,  25  m.  N., 
on  the  Mahawelli  Ganga,  where  there 
is  an  aneient  daffoba  in  the  midst  of 
fine  scenery.  Alutnuwera  may  also 
be  reached  from  Eandy,  and  one  of 
the  views  on  that  route  at  the  head  of 
the  sudden  descent  to  the  great 
eastern  plain  is  among  the  finest  in 
Ceylon.] 

Leaving  Badulla,  the  road,  which 
pMSses  chiefly  through  fine  tea-estates^ 
rises  rapidly  to 


448 


GETLON 


50  m.  Passara  (R.H.),  and  still  oon- 
tinuing  to  ascend,  reaches  at 

66  m.  Lunngala  (R.H.),  beautifully 
situated.  Here  the  road  descends 
again.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty 
of  the  drive  between  this  place  and 

78  m.  Bibile  (R.H.)>  a  good  starting- 
point  for  excursions  into  the  wild  and 
beautiful  country  to  the  £.  and  S. 
We  are  now  in  the  Veddah  country, 
and  either  here  or  at  the  next  following 
Rest-Houses, 

88  m.  Ekiriyanknmbara,  or 

100  m.  PaJlegama,  the  traveller 
is  likely  to  meet  with  some  of  these 
singular  specimens  of  humanity.  They 
are  a  renmant  of  the  Takkos^  the  abor- 
iginal inhabitants  of  Ceylon,  and  are 
diyided  into  two  classes,  the  Rook  and 
the  Village  Veddahs.  The  Rock 
Yeddahs  are  absolute  savages,  who 
remain  concealed  in  the  forests,  and 
are  rarely  seen  by  a  European  eye — 
indeed  few  now  exist.  The  YiUagei 
Yeddahs,  though  often  indulging  their 
migratory  instincts,  live  in  collections 
of  mud  and  bark  huts,  in  the  vioini^ 
of  which  they  carry  on  some  rude  cul- 
tivation. Their  skill  in  handling  the 
bow  and  arrow,  of  which  they  still 
habitually  make  use,  is  remarkable. 

114  m.  MahaOya(R.H.) 
'120  m.  Kumburuwella(R.H.)  About 
5  miles  beyond  EumburuweUa  is  the 
great  tank  of  Rugam,  restored  by  Sir  H. 
Ward,  and  now  irrigating  a  large  tract 
of  country. 

130  m.  Kanitiya(R.H.) 

136  m.  Chenkaledi  or  Eraoor  (R.H.) 
We  have  now  entered  a  country  almost 
whdUy  inhabited  by  Tamils  and 
'* Moors,"  as  the  Cmgalese  Moham- 
medans are  called.  The  familiar 
dagoba  is  no  longer  seen  in  the 
viuaffes,  and  its  place  is  taken  by  the 
Hindu  pagoda  or  the  mosque.  From 
Ru^m  onwards  the  countiy  is  highly 
cultivated  and  populous.  After  cross- 
ing the  brid^  at  Eraoor,  the  road  turns 
sharply  at  right  angles  S.E.  to 

146  m.  Batticaloa  (R.H, ),  the  capital 
of  the  Eastern  Province.  Batticaloa  is 
situated  on  an  island  in  a  remarkable 
salt-water  lake,  which  communioates 
with  the  sea  nlybyonelongand  narrow 
channel,  but  which  extends  for  over 


80  m.  in  length  by  from  5  to  2  m.  in 
breadth,  and  is  separated  from  the  sea 
by  a  broad  sandy  belt  now  rich  with 
cocoa-nut  groves,  and  swarming  with 
Tamil  and  Moorish  villages  from  one 
end  to  the  other.  The  approach  to 
the  town  by  a  causeway  across  the 
lake  is  picturesane.  The  walls  of  the 
small  old  Dutcn  fort,  now  converted 
into  a  prison,  are  well  preserved. 
Batticaloa  is  famous  as  the  abode  of 
that  singular  natural  curiosity  the 
<<  singing  fish."  On  calm  nights,  esped 
ally  about  the  time  of  the  full  moon 
musical  sounds  are  to  be  heard  proceed- 
ing from  the  bottom  of  the  lagoon. 
They  resemble  those  whldi  are  pro- 
duced by  rubbing  the  rim  of  a  glass 
vessel  with  a  wet  finger.  The  writer 
has  never  heard  more  than  two  distinct 
musical  notes,  one  much  higher  than 
the  other,  but  credible  witnesses,  such 
as  Sir  E.  Tennent,  assert  that  they 
have  heard  a  multitude  of  sounds, 
"  each  clear  and  distinct  in  itself,  the 
sweetest  treble  mingling  with  the  low- 
est bass."  The  natives  attribute  the 
production  of  the  sounds  to  the  shell- 
nsh,  GeritMum  pcUiutre.  This  may  be 
doubtful,  but  it  is  unquestionable  that 
tiiey  come  from  the  bottom  of  the 
lagoon,  and  may  be  distinctly  heard 
rising  to  the  surface  on  aU  sides  of  a 
boat  floating  on  the  lake.  If  a  pole 
be  inserted  in  the  water,  and  its  upper 
end  applied  to  the  ear,  much  louder 
and  stronger  sounds  are  heard  than 
without  such  aid. 


ROUTE  3 

>~    Colombo  to  Ratnapura  and 
Badulla 

(Coach  daily  to  Ratnapura ;  thence  special 
conveyance.) 
No  excursion  could  show  more  of 
the  characteristic  features  of  Cingalese 
scenery  and  Cingalese  -life  than  this. 
It  is  one  strongly  recommended  to 
those  having  time  to  perform  it.  The 
return  journey  from  Badulla  should  be 
taken  by  the  line  described  in  Rte.  % 
and  can  be  performed  in  a  day  and » 
half.    The  journey  to  Badulla  wooM 


ROUTE  3.       COLOMBO  TO  RAT^APURA  AND  BADULLA 


449 


oocapy  three  days.  Those  who  have  less 
time  to  spare  are  strongly  recommended 
to  go  as  far  as  Katnapura,  retaming  to 
Colombo  by  the  alternative  route  men- 
tioned below. 

Leaving  Colombo  through  the  narrow 
and  crowded  streets  of  the  **Pettah," 
■we  follow  either  a  very  pretty  road 
along  the  S.  bank  of  the  Kelani  river, 
or  a  more  direct  but  less  picturesque 
road  across  the  plain,  to 

10  m.  Kadnwella,  a  R.H.  charm- 
ingly situated  on  a  bluff  of  red  rooks 
above  the  river  at  a  point  where  it 
makes  a  sharp  turn.  The  R.H.  ver- 
andah all  but  oveiliangB  the  river,  and 
commands  a  delightful  view,  enlivened 
by  the  constant  passage  of  leaf-thatched 
barges  and  saihng  boats,  and  by  the 
picturesque  groups  all  day  crossing  the 
river  at  the  ferry  close  Tby.  A  short 
distance  off  is  an  ancient  Buddhist 
temple  of  some  size.  The  road  con- 
tinues near  the  river,  through  a  rapid 
succession  of  villages  and  groves,  to 

21  m.  Hanwella,  a  large  village  with 
a  good  B.H.,  XK)nmuindin^  a  beautiful 
view  up  and  down  the  nver.  A  few 
m.  S.  of  Hanwella  is  the  tank  of 
Labugama,  which  supplies  Colombo 
with  water.  It  is  picturesquely  situ- 
ated among  wooded  hills,  and  well 
repays  a  visit.  The  road  now  leaves 
the  river  and  passes  over  country  in 
whioh  tea-cultivation  is  making  much 
progress  to 

30  m.  Avisawella,  another  large 
village  with  an  excellent  R.H.,  which 
is  virtuallv  an  hotel.  Avisawella  is 
surrounded  by  country  of  very  great 
natural  beauty.  Its  loveliness  is,  how- 
ever,  rapidly  disappearing  before  l^e 
constant  ertension  of  tea -estates,  of 
which  Avisawella  is  now  one  of  the 
centres.  [A  road  leading  N.  from 
Avisawella  crosses  the  Sitiwaka  and 
Kelani  rivers  by  fine  iron  bridges,  both 
commanding  lovely  views  ;  and  passes, 
by  Jiiumwella  (R.H.)  through  a  lovely 
wooded  and  undulating  country  to 
^^^^^(seeRte.  1).]  After  Avisawella, 
the  scenery  assumes  a  bolder  character. 
After  passing 

44  m.  Pusflella  (R.H.),  we  cross  the 
Kuriweti  river  near  the  village  of 
£3uieligoda,  in  whioh  is  situated  the 
[India] 


picturesque  walwwa  of  Ekneligoda 
Dissawe,  a  great  Cingalese  chief  and 
landholder,  and  we  reach 

56  m.  Batnapura  (R.H.),  a  consider- 
able town,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of 
Sabaragamuwa.  Ratnapura  is  situated 
in  the  midst  of  the  most  exquisite 
scenery,  and  the  views  from  the  summit 
of  the  Fort,  the  Suspension  Bridge,  and 
the  Circular  Road  are  especially  recom- 
mended. A  ride  of  a  few  miles  up  the 
bridle-path  leading  from  the  Suspen* 
sion  Bridge  to  Gilimale  will  amply 
repay  the  trouble,  revealing  as  it  does 
the  magnificent  mountain-wall  which 
rises  all  but  perpendicularly  to  the  N. 
to  the  height  of  many  thousand  feet. 
It  is  from  Ratnapura  that  the  finest 
views  of  Adam's  Peak  are  to  be  ob- 
tained. There  is  a  specially  good 
one  within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of  the 
R.H.  Ratnapura  is  the  headquarters 
of  l^e  gemming  industrpr,  and  the 
whole  country  is  dotted  with  pits  from 
which  gems  have  been  removed.  Sap- 
phires, topazes,  and  cat's  eyes  are 
those  most  commonly  found.  The 
modiLS  operandi  is  simple.  A  pit  is 
dug,  and  when  the  I'Z/an,  a  peculiar 
clay  in.  which  the  gems  are  usually 
found,  is  reached,  all  that  is  dug  up  is 
carefiilly  washed  and  sifted,  and  the 
good  stones  set  aside.  Otnuine  stones 
are  certain  to  be  found  in  large  quan- 
tities, but  stones  of  any  marketable 
value  are  more  rare,  the  greater  part 
having  only  a  faint  shade  of  colour 
and  being  disfigured  by  flaws. 

A  mile  or  two  W.  frt>m  Ratnapura  is 
the  Maha  Saman  DewaU^  one  of  the 
richest  Buddhist  temples  in  Ceylon, 
and  possessed  of  considerable  estates. 
Some  interesting  relics  are  preserved 
there,  but  the  building  itself,  thouj^h 
picturesque,  has  no  architectural  in- 
terest In  the  outer  court,  built  into 
the  wall,  stands  one  of  the  very  few 
monuments  of  the  Portuguese  domina- 
tion remaining  in  Ceylon,  — a  slab  repre- 
senting the  rail -length  figure  of  a 
Portugueseknight  in  armour  killingand 
tramping  upon  a  prostrate  Cingalese. 

[Ascent  of  Adam's  Peak  (23  m.),  see 
also  Rte.  2. 

5  m.  from  Ratnapura  is  Malwsla  on 
the  river  Kalu  Oanga. 

2a 


460 


0BYI.ON 


2  m.  farther  up  the  river  is  Gilimale, 
a^  a  large  villfige  (horses  as  a  rale  can- 
not proceed  farther). 

5  m.  Palabaddala,  s^c  halting-station 
of  pilgrims  to  the  Peak.  Here  the  path 
becomes  very  steep  and  rugged. 

8  m.  Heramltipana,  s^c  halting-sta- 
tion at  the  base  of  the  Peak. 

3  m.  farther  is  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  (7420  ft.),  where  is  a  small 
permanent  room  built  for  the  acoommo- 
aation  of  the  officiating  priest.] 

Leaving  Ratnapuraby  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  and  not  forgettine  to  notice 
the  beautiful  views  obtainaole  from  it, 
we  pass  through  paddj-fields  fertilised 
by  the  Batu^edara  irrigation  works, 
and  after  a  drive  of  13  m.  reach 

69  m.  Pelmadulla  (B.H.),  whence  a 
road  to  the  S.  leads  to  Rackwane,  the 
chief  village  of  a  rising  tea-district 
The  views  on  this  road  are  some  of  the 
most  beautiful  in  Ceylon. 

[From  Rackwane  an  interesting  trip 
may  be  made  southwards  to  Hamban- 
totta  in  the  southern  province.  It  is 
a  ridinff  road  only,  though  practicable 
for  bullock-carts  in  most  places.  As 
far  as  Maduanwela  the  scenery  is  very 
pretty.  At  Maduanwela  is  a  very 
interesting  specimen,  the  only  one  with 
which  the  writer  is  acquainted,  of  the 
ancient  walavjes  of  the  Kandyan  chiefs. 
It  consists  of  several  small  courts  built 
on  a  sort  of  Pompeiian  plan,  the  small 
rooms  looking  into  the  court  which,  as 
at  Pompeii,  is  in  every  case  furnished 
with  an  impluvium.  There  is  a  small 
private  chapel  (Buddhist),  and  the 
massive  outer  door  made  of  one  huge 
piece  of  wood,  is  marked  by  bullets 
and  other  traces  of  resistance  to  assail- 
ants in  olden  times.  Within  is  dis- 
played the  silver  staff  shaped  like  a 
crosier,  the  badge  of  office  of  one  of 
the  ancestors  of  the  family,  who  was 
ohief  Adigar  or  Prime  Minister  of  the 
King  of  E^ndy.  Afterwards  the  track 
leads  chiefly  through  thick  forest  and 
jungle,  attractive  to  the  sportsman  as 
being  a  great  resort  for  elephants  and 
deer.  After  passing  the  irrigation 
works  on  the  Wellawe  River,  the  main 
road  between  Galle  and  Hambantotta 
is  joined  at  Ambalantotta  (see  p.  453)]. 

The  woods  about  Pelmadulla,  at  the 


proper  season,  are  bright  with  tltt 
splendid  blooms  of  the  DendrobUtm 
Maccarthii, 

85  m.  Balangoda  (R.H.)  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  beauty  and  variety  <rf 
the  scenery  along  the  whole  road  &om 
Ratnapura  to  this  place.  It  is  entiiely 
free  from  that  monotony  which  some- 
times renders  the  most  luxuriant  tropi- 
cal scenery  oppressive  and  wearisome. 

97  m.  Belihiiloya.  There  is  a  good 
R.H.  here,  romantically  situated 
on  the  edge  of  a  rushing  mountain 
stream.  WTom.  this  spot  on  ascent  oaa 
be  made  to  the  Horton  Plams  (see  Bte. 
2)*  We  now  get  into  coffee  and  tea- 
estates,  whence  the  whole  of  the  wood 
has  beendeared,  and  the  bare  hi11sid« 
now  lack  any  trace  of  their  original 
beauty.  But  the  crops  are  fine,  and 
coffee  has  not  in  this  part  of  Ceylon 
been  so  wholly  exterminated  as  else- 
where by  leaf  oisease.  Ever  since  leav- 
ing Pelmadulla  the  road,  thoogh  varied 
by  occasional  descents,  has  been  risiog; 
and  by  the  time  we  have  reached 

105  m.  Haldamulla  (R.H. ),  we  aie  at 
a  very  considerable  elevation,  from  which 
a  truly  magnificent  view  is  obtained  over 
all  thlat  part  of  the  island  lying  between 
Haldamulla  and  the  sea  to  the  S.  With 
few  exceptions,  the  eye  seems  to  range 
over  an  unbroken  extent  of  forest ;  the 
rivers,  villages,  and  tracts  of  cnltivatioB 
being  for  the  most  part  concealed  hf 
the  trees  surrounding  them. 

[From  Haldamulla  the  very  fine 
waterfall,  over  400  feet  in  height  neir 
Lemastotta,  may  be  visited.] 

A  very  steep  ascent  of  about  8  m. 
brings  us  to  the  top  of  the  pass  at 
Hapntale  (R.H.),  at  an  elevation  <A 
between  4000  and  5000  ft.  The  viwr 
hence  is  even  grander  than  that  from 
Haldamulla,  but  from  partaking  of  a 
greater  extent  of  the  nature  of  a  bird's- 
eye  view  it  is  less  pictureeque.  The 
road  leading  northwards  now  b^giu 
again  to  descend,  and  soon  reaches  the 
small  village  of 

120  m.  Bandarawella  (B.H.),  wfaieh 
is  said  to  enjoy  the  best  and  most 
equable  climate  in  Ceylon.  It  is  cer- 
tainly a  very  delicious  one,  and  no 
I  doubt  one  day,  now  that  the  railway  is 
I  extended  to  this  point,  it  wUl  I 


BOUTB  4.    OOLOMBO  TO  SATNAFURA.     BOVTB  5.    TO  TISSAMAHABAMA     4S1 


flie  site  of  aamerous  villas  and  samiiier 
residenoes.  A  good  hotel  has  been 
lately  opened  here.  The  road  con- 
ti&iies  to  descend  for  14  miles  to 

134  m.  Dikwella,  from  which  point 
the  road  to  Badulla  is  the  same  as  in 
Kte.  2. 


ROUTE  4 
Colombo  to  Ratnapura,  via  Pana- 

DUBA  AND  NaMBAPANB 
(BftU  and  road.) 

This  is  an  alternative  route  to  Hatna- 
pnra,  which,  though  somewhat  longer, 
IS  performed  in  the  same  nnmber  of 
hours  as  the  previous  route,  owing  to  a 
part  of  it  being  by  railway.  It  passes 
through  very  pretty  coimtry,  and  those 
who  go  no  mither  than  Ratnapura  are 
strongly  recommended  to  go  by  one 
and  return  by  the  other  of  these  routes. 

The  traveller  proceeds  as  fiEu:  as  Fana- 
dtira  by  the  Southern  Railway  from 
Colombo  (see  Rte.  5),  and  thence  pro- 
oeeds  by  coach  or  private  conveyance. 

A  few  miles  after  quitting  Panadura 
he  crosses  the  Bolgoda  Lake  by  a  bridge, 
and  at 

10  m.  readies  Horaiia.  The  RH. 
here  is  built  among  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  Buddhist  monastery,  and  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  the  large 
and  handsome  Buddhist  temple.  It 
contains  a  bronze  oandlestiok  worthy 
of  notice.  It  is  about  8  ft.  high  and 
of  remarkably  fine  workmanship. 

28  m.  Nambapaae  (RH.)  prettily 
situated.  The  road  here  approaches 
the  Ealu  Ganga  river,  along  nie  bank 
of  which  it  passes  as  far  as 

32  m.  Eiri  Ela,  where  the  Kuru- 
vitti  river  is  crossed.  The  road  now 
keeps  at  a  ^eater  distance  from  the 
river,  though  it  follows  its  general  course 
till  it  reaches 

42  m.  Ratnapura  (see  p.  449).  Shortly 
before  arriving  at  Ratnar>m'a  the  Maha 
Saman  Dewale  is  passed  (see  p.  449). 
The  whole  road  is  extremely  beautiful 
and  cannot  fail,  if  the  day  be  fine,  togive 
pleasure  to  those  passing  along  it.    Fine 


views  of  Adam's  Peak  and  flie  .other 
principal  points  of  the  Central  Moun- 
tains are  to  be  obtained  on  this  route. 


ROUTE  6 

Colombo  to  Gallb,  Matara,  Ham- 
bantoita,  and  tissamaharama 

(Rail  to  Matara ;  tbenoe  special  eon- 
veyanoe.    Beyond  Kirinde  ride.) 

The  journey  is  worth  making,  at  all 
events  so  far  as  Galle  or  Matara,  for  the 
sake  of  the  coast  scenery.  As  far  as 
Matara  it  can  be  performed  by  rail,  but 
it  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  much  is 
lost  by  adopting  this  mode  of  travel- 
ling. The  first  six  stations — ^nam^y, 
the  Pettah,  the  Fort,  Slave  Island  (the 
drive  from  Grille  Face  Hotel  to  this 
station  is  about  J  m.),  Kollapitiya, 
Bambalapitya,  and  Wellawatta,  are  ail 
in  the  suDurbs  of  Colomba 

At  7  m.  Mount  Laviida  sta.  is  the 
Grand  Hotel,  which  was  built  by  Sir 
E.  Barnes,  when  Governor,  as  his 
Marine  Villa.  It  stands  on  a  rooky 
eminence  close  to  the  station.  It  is  a 
very  favourite  place  to  stay  at,  and  has 
first-rate  accommodation. 

17i  m.  Moratitva  sta.  is  a  very 
flourishing  place.  There  is  a  good 
Anglican  church  here,  built  by  the  late 
M.  C.  de  Soysa. 

21  m.  Panadura  (R.H.)  good,  a 
flourishing  villajge  prettily  situivted  on  a 
narrow  inlet  of  the  sea.  There  is  a 
handsome  church  in  a  style  of  pointed 
architecture  well  suited  to  the  dimate 
(see  Rte.  4). 

26  m.  Ealutara  (RH.)  excellent,  is 
approached  by  a  fine  iron  bridge  over  the 
Ealu  Ganga.  It  is  over  1200  ft.  long, 
being  composed  of  twielve  spans  of  100 
ft.  each.  Ealutara  is  a  large  place, 
with  a  great  air  of  cheerfulness  and 
comfort.  The  R.H.  is  an  excellent  one 
and  a  good  starting-point  for  the  excur- 
sions which  may  be  made  over  excellent 
roads  into  the  very  pretty  country  to 
the  east  of  the  town.  There  is  an  in- 
teresting Buddhist  temple  on  the  north 
!  side  of  ^e  river. 


452 


OBTLQII: 


41  m.  Bentottasta.  (R.H.)  very  good, 
WB8  till  lately  the  railway  tennixms,  and 
firom  thenoe  the  journey  to  Galle  had  to 
bemade  byroad.  The  drive  is  charming, 
always  near  and  generally  within  sight 
of  the  sea,  and  passing  under  an  unin- 
terrupted grove  of  coGoa-nut  and  other 
trees.  The  district  is  eztremeljr  popu- 
lous, and  the  traveller  is  rarely,  if  ever, 
out  of  sight  of  a  house  or  two,  while 
villages  of  greater  or  less  size  are  of 
constant  ooourrenoe. 

54  nL  Ambalangoda  sta.  is  a  large 
and  rapidly  increasing  village.  The 
R.H.  here  is  close  to  the  sea,  and  has  a 
good  bathidg-plaoe  among  the  rocks 
below  it. 

61m.  Qikkadnwasta.  (R.H.)  There 
is  a  fine  Buddhist  temple  here  in  a 
somewhat  unusual  position,  approached 
by  a  long,  narrow,  and  steep  flight  of 
stone  stairs. 

74  nu  GALLE  sta.  a^^  was  the  principal 
port  of  call  for  vessels  between  Aden  and 
the  far  East,  before  the  com^etion  of  the 
breakwater  at  CJolombo.  The  harbour 
at  Qalle  is  very  small,  and  not  very  safe 
in  rough  weatner.  The  entrance  is  so 
narrow  as  to  be  hardbr  visible  until 
very  near.  The  lighthouse  is  about 
60  ft  hiffh.  To  the  E.  there  is  a  hill 
2170  ft  high  called  the  Haycock,  and 
in  the  distance  to  the  KN.K  Adam's 
Peak,  7000  ft  high,  is  often  seen.  The 
landing-place  at  Cralle  is  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  harbour.  The  deep  water  comes 
close  into  the  shore.  All  Saints' 
Church  is  about  i  m.  from  the  landing- 
place.  It  is  a  handsome  stone  building 
of  pointed  architecture,  and  can  seat 
500  persons.  The  ramparts  of  the  old 
tortform  a  charmingpromenadetowards 
the  sea.  The  popuuition  of  the  town 
according  to  the  last  census  is  33,500. 

The  place  is  hardly  mentioned  in  the 
native  chronicles  before  1267.  Ibn 
Batuta,  in  the  middle  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury, calls  it  a  small  town.  It  was  not 
till  the  Portuguese  occupation  that  it 
rose  to  importance.  When  the  Dutch 
succeeded  the  Portuguese,  they  greatly 
strengthened  the  fortifications,  which 
had  been  vigorously  defended  against 
their  admiral  Kopten.  In  the  marriage 
treaty  of  the  Infanta  of  Portugal  wiSi 


Charles  II.  of  England,  it  was  agreed 
that  if  the  Portuguese  reoovered  C^lon 
they  were  to  hand  over  Gralle  to  the 
English,  but  they  never  did  recover  it 
The  name  of  Galle  is  from  the  Cingal- 
ese, gailaf  a  rock;  but  the  Portu- 
guese and  Dutch  settlers  derived  it 
from  the  Latin,  ffcUlus,  a  cock,  and 
carved  an  image  of  a  oock  on  the  front 
of  the  old  Government  House,  which 
dated  from  1687.  The  environs  of 
Galle  are  charming,  and  a  number  of 
pleasant  and  interesting  excursions 
may  be  made  among  them.  The 
scenery  is  always  delightfid,  and  there 
are  many  old  and  curious  Buddhist 
monasteries  to  be  explored.  Buddhism 
is  here  seen  in  its  best  aspect  The 
monks  are  far  more  austere  and  more 
intelligent  than  in  the  Kandyian 
provinces,  and  the  religion  seems  to 
exercise  a  greater  influence  over  the 
lives  of  the  people. 

91  m.  Weligama  sta.  (R.H.),  a  popu- 
lous and  thriving  villa^,  beautifully 
situated  on  the  lovely  little  bay  of  the 
same  name.  Half  a  mile  before  enter- 
ing the  village  on  the  rt  -hand  side  of 
the  high  road  from  Galle  is  a  remark- 
able rock-cut  colossal  statue  of  a  Cingal- 
ese king  in  perfect  preservation.  The 
statue  IS  popularly  styled  that  of  the 
**  Leper  King,"  but  the  legends  attached 
to  it  are  obscure  and  contradictory. 

The  road  continues  along  the  sea- 
shore, through  an  almost  uninterrupted 
grove  of  cocoa-nut  trees  which  over- 
^adow  a  constant  succession  of  pictnr 
esque  fishing- villages.  The  whole  dis- 
trict is  densely  populated,  and  the  drive 
one  of  the  most  charming  character. 

101  m.  Uatara,  sta.  3^  the  biithplaoa 
of  Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  1 806,  a  large  and 
flourishing  town  of  about  9000  in- 
habitants. The  Nilawa  Ganga  is  here 
crossed  by  a  fine  bridge.  Matara  itself 
is  a  particularly  pretty  and  pleasinff 
town,  and  is  the  residence  of  many  m 
the  oldest  and  richest  Cingalese  lowbnd 
families.  In  the  fort  there  is  a  B»H. 
and  a  handsome  clock  tower. 

Hatara  is  the  railway  terminus.  The 
traveller  proceeds  by  carriage  to 

104  m.  Dondra,  a  fishing  -  village 
situated  on  the  southemmoat  point  of 


BOUTB  6.      OOIiOMBO  TO  TRINCOMALBE 


453 


Ceylon.  There  was  here  a  stately 
temple,  destroyed  by  the  Portuguese, 
of  which  few  fra^ents  now  remam. 
There  is,  however,  in  the  modem  vihara 
a  fine  gateway  elaborately  sculptured, 
and  about  half  a  mile  to  the  north  is  a 
stone  cell  in  perfect  preservation.  On 
the  head  itself,  about  a  mile  to  the 
south  of  the  road,  is  a  magnificent 
lighthouse,  erected  at  great  cost  in  1889. 

The  villages,  though  still  frequent, 
now  become  fewer  in  number. 

114  m.  Dikwella  (R.H. )  good 

125  m.  Tangalla,  a  pretty  little 
village  with  a  remarkably  gooa  R.H. 
close  to  the  sea. 

North  of  Tangalla  are  the  extensive 
irrigation  works  of  the  Eirima  valley, 
and  the  large  tank  of  Udukiriwella  ;  a 
few  miles  to  the  south  of  which  is  situ- 
ated one  of  the  oldest  and  most  re- 
markable Buddhist  monasteries  in  Cey- 
lon— ^Mukirlg^a,  an  isolated  rock  rising 
abruptly  from  the  plain,  and  honey- 
combed with  caves  and  temples. 

1 30  m.  Banne  (R.  H. )  poor.  About  a 
mile  before  reaching  it  we  see  on  the 
south  a  picturesque  Buddhist  temple 
on  the  summit  of^a  high  wooded  rock. 

The  country  now  becomes  bleaker  and 
barer  and  the  population  far  more  sparse. 

140  m.  Ambalantotta  (R.H.)  fair, 
a  small  village  on  the  banks  of  the 
"Walawe  river,  a  noble  stream  here 
shrouded  in  dense  forest,  and  crossed  by 
a  long  and  picturesque  wooden  bridge. 

Ten  miles  north  of  Ambalantotta  are 
the  head  works  of  the  Walawe  irrigation 
scheme.  A  massive  stone  dam,  recently 
constructed  by  the  Ceylon  Grovemment, 
diverts  part  of  the  stream  into  a  system 
of  canals  and  channels  which  convey 
water  for  agricultural  purposes  for  many 
miles  on  the  west  bank  of  the  river. 
The  road  now  passes  through  a  desolate 
country  to 

149  m.  Hambaatotta  (R.H.),  the  chief 
place  of  an  Assistant  Agency,  a  large 
town  on  a  small  bad  harbour.  Here  are 
the  headquarters  of  the  district,  a  large 
gaol,  the  Assistant  Agent's  and  District 
Judge's  residences,  the  Cutcherry, 
Court-house,  etc.  Here  too  is  one  of  the 
two  chief  salt  manufBustories  m  Ceylon. 
A  great  part  of  the  population  are 


Malays.  In  the  immediate  vidnity  of 
the  town  are  sandhills,  which  lone 
threatened  to  overwhelm  the  town,  ana 
have  in  fact  buried  several  streets,  the 
old  post  office,  and  some  other  buildings. 
Their  onward  progress  is  now  checked 
by  the  growth  of  a  peculiar  grass,  and 
by  plantations  of  the  palmyra  palm. 

About  20  m.  N.E.  of  Hambantotta 
is  Tissamaharama,  the  oldest  of  the 
abandoned  royal  cities  of  Ceylon. 
Except  as  a  place  of  pilgrimage,  the  site 
had  been  wholly  aoandoned  till  the 
restoration  of  the  tank  by  the  Ceylon 
Government.  From  this  tank  more 
than  three  thousand  acres  are  now  culti- 
vated in  paddy,  and  both  population 
and  the  area  under  cultivation  are 
annually  increasing.  The  ruins  are 
of  great  antiquity  and  interest.  One 
of  the  oldest  and  largest  of  the  dagobas, 
over  160  ft  high,  which  was  m  a  very 
ruinous  condition,  has  been  entirely 
restored  by  the  unassisted  labour  of  the 
Buddhist  population.  There  are  several 
other  very  large  dagobas,  mostly  in 
ruins,  and  some  smaller  ones  in  fair  con- 
dition. The  remains  of  large  building 
are  numerous,  and  the  ruins  of  what  is 
styled  the  King's  palace,  but  is  more 
probably  the  lower  story  of  a  many- 
storied  monasteiT  like  the  Brazen 
PalcLce  at  Anuradhapura,  are  specially 
worthy  olf  notice.  They  consist  of  rows 
of  hugemonoUthic  columns,  much  larger 
than  any  at  Anuradhapura  or  Pollona- 
rua.  Ruins  are  everywhere  scattered 
through  the  dense  forest,  and  excava- 
tions here  would  probably  be  better  re- 
paid than  at  any  other  spot  in  Ceylon 

There  are  two  ways  of  reaching  Tis- 
samaharama from  Hambantotta — 

(1)  The  easiest  route  is  that  by.  the 
high  road  to  Badulla.  On  leaving 
Hambantotta,  the  great  Uwwyas^  or 
natural  salt-pans,  whencegreat  amounts 
of  salt,  a  Government  monopoly,  are 
annually  taken,  are  passed.  W  hen  the 
salt  has  formed  in  them  they,  present 
the  appearance  of  frozen  lakes  covered 
with  snow  of  dazzling  whiteness. 

15  m.  Wirawila  (R.H.)  The  high 
road  is  here  left,  and  about  four  miles  of 
bad  country  road  conducts  the  traveller 
to  the  Government  bungalow  above  the 
tank,  which  does  duty  as  a  Rest-House. 


4»4 


CtfltWH 


(2)  A  more  mteniitiiig  route  is  along 
tlie  coast  21  m.  to  Xirbide  (R.H.),  a 
tmaU  port  of  pictureaqne  appearanoe. 
There  is  a  roaa  thenoe  to  Tusamaha- 
nana,  about  8  m.  in  len^h,  which 
passes  many  remains  of  antiquity. 

8  m.  beyond  Eirihde,  along  the  coast, 
is  Falatupane  (K.H.)»  ui  excellent 
centre  for  shooting  excursions,  as  ele- 
hants,  wild  buffaloes,  bears,  leopards, 
eer,  and  wild  peacocks  abound  m  the 
wild  and  unpeopled  forests  and  plains 
around  it.  There  are  also  antiquarian 
remains  of  considerable  interest  scat- 
tered through  the  junele. 

From  Palutupane  tnere  is  a  track, 
good  for  horses,  and  generally  passable 
for  a  rough  bullock-cart,  to  Batticaloa 
(130  m. )  (see  p.  420).  The  forest  scenery 
on  the  Tala  river  is  very  beautiful,  and 
the  whole  route  presents  great  attrac- 
tions to  the  sportsman. 


d( 


ROUTE  6 

Colombo  to  Trincomaleb  bt  Negom- 
Bo,   Putt AL AM,    and  Anuradha- 

PURA. 

(Coach  to  Chilaw ;  thence  by  special  con- 
veyance.) 

A  steamboat  goes  daUy,  or  almost 
daily,  from  Colombo  to  Kegombo,  and 
from  Negombo  to  Colombo,  by  the 
canal,  but  it  is  usually  both  crowded 
and  uncomfortable,  and  very  slow. 

The  coaoh-road  leaves  Colombo  by 
the  Bridge  of  JBoats  (see  n.  414),  and 
turning  to  the  left,  proceeds  by 

13  m.  Jaela(R.H.)to 

23  m.  Kegombo  (R.H.)  exoeUent,  a 
krse  and  thriving  town,  picturesquely 
and  singularly  situated  among  lagoons 
aad  canals^ — a  true  Dutch  settlement. 
There  is  a  picturesque  Dutch  gateway, 
which  "improvers  hare,  happily,  as 
yet  failed  to  remove,  and  a  banyan  tree 
-of  magnificent  dimensions.  The  whole 
district  between  Colombo  and  Negombo 
is  densely  inhabited.  The  innumer- 
able Tillages  are    soattered    through 


cocoa-nut  woods,  cinnamon,  f^ardens, 
and  groves  of  jak  fruit.  The  artist 
uid  the  photographer  can  find  at  eveiy 
corner  of  the  countless  roads  and  lanes 
an  inexhaustible  variety  of  vignettes 
of  striking  beauty.  Leaving  Negombo, 
the  road  crosses  the  Maha  Oya  by  a 
fine  bridge,  about  400  ft  in  length, 
and  proo^ds  through  luxuriant  cocoa- 
nut  groves  and  tobaccojplantations  to 

36  m.  ]Iaravila(R.H.)  ^ood,  a  vil- 
lage rapidly  increasing  in  size  and  im- 
portance. Near  it  is  an  enormous  and 
very  costly  Roman  Catholio  GhmcL 
One  of  the  most  striking  features  on 
this  route  is  the  number  and  aize  of  the 
Roman  Catholio  churches,  erected  for 
the  most  part  bv  the  people  of  the 
fishing-villages  along  the  coast,  who 
almost  all  profess  that  religion. 

41  m.  Tisnipitiyawewa  tank,  one  of 
the  most  successful  irrigation  restora- 
tions of  the  Ceylon  Government,  is 
passed  (rt.) 

48  m.  Chilaw  (R.H.)  good,  another 
large  town,  seat  of  an  Assistant  Govern- 
ment Agency  and  of  the  District  Court 
Here  again  is  another  huge  Roman 
Catholic  Church.  A  large  Hindu  temple 
at  Muniseram,  in  the  neighbourhood,  is 
worth  a  visit.  There  is  a  road  from 
Chilaw  to  Eurunegala  passing  Dun- 
degamma,  and  where  there  is  a  pictur- 
esque temple.  4  m.  beyond  Chilaw 
the  great  river  Dedaru  Oya  is  passed 
by  an  iron  bridge  latoly  erected.  A 
bad  road,  through  a  sandy  and  un- 
interesting country,  which,  however, 
is  being  rapidly  covered  with  thriving 
cocoa-nut  plantations,  leads  to 

59  m.  Battul  Oya,  another  large 
river,  crossed  by  a  feny,  and  then  con- 
tinues its  way  through  country  of  a 
similar  character  to 

80  m.  Pttttalam  (R.H. )  poor,  a  con- 
siderable place,  the  headquarters  of  an 
Assistant  Government  Agent  What 
gives  Puttalam  its  importance  is  the 
existence  of  the  largest  salt-x»ns  in 
Ceylon.  The  whole  island  is  supplied 
with  salt  from  this  place  or  Hamban- 
totta.  The  process  of  manufacture, 
and  the  salt-pans,  are  well  worth  seeing, 
if  the  visit  to  Puttalam  is  made  at  ths 
right  season.  Salt  is  a  Gk>veninMBt 
monopoly.     It  is  mdnufiKStured  han, 


ROtJTB  7.       KANDT  TO  JAFFNA 


4&& 


and  at  Uambantotta,  and  thence  re- 
tailed throughout  the  island. 

A  canal  connects  Puttalazn  with 
NegombOy  but  except  between  Chilaw 
and  Negombo  it  is  little  used.  It  is, 
however,  kept  up  for  the  transport  of 
salt. 

The  roftd  after  leaving  Puttalam 
strikes  inland,  and  proceeos  through  a 
sandy  and  thinly-pecnpled  country  to 

103  m.  KaJaOya(B.H.)  The  Kaia 
Oya  river  is  here  crossed  by  a  bridge 
55  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the 
stream,  which  was  nevertheless  carried 
away  by  a  flood  in  1885. 

127  m.  AnnradhapiiTa  (see  p.  456). 
The  road  from  Anuradhapura  to  Trin- 
comalee  passes  through 

135 m.  mhintale (R.H.)  (see  p.  457). 
After  leaving  Mihintale,  the  road 
(constructed  1886)  passes  through  a 
thinly-inhabited  country,  the  villages, 
with  their  tanks  and  cultivation,  being 
sparsely  scattered  through  the  forest 

160  m.  Horowapotane  (B.H.)  A 
large  tank  and  village. 

177  m.  Pankulam  (R.H.)  A  few 
miles  beyond  Pankulam,  on  the  rt. 
of  the  road,  and  half  a  mile  from  it, 
are  the  remarkable  hot  springs  of 
Chimpiddi.  They  are  nine  in  number, 
but  ihough  of  dmerent  temperatures, 
rise  close  together  in  one  ancient  stone 
basin.  They  are  considered  equally 
sacred  by  Buddhists,  Hindus,  and 
Mohammedans,  and  the  ruins  of  a 
dagoba,  a  temple  of  Vishnu,  and 
a  mosque  stand  together  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity. 

192  m.  Trincomalee  (see  p.  460). 


ROUTE  7 

Kandy  to  Jaffna  by 
Anuradhapura 

(To  Matale  by  rail.  From  Matale  to  Damlx)ol 
a  horse-coach  runs  daOy.  From  Dambool 
to  Jaflha  a  ballock-stage  also  runs  daily, 
performing  the  journey  in  about  70  hrs.) 

The  railway,  which  crosses  the 
Mafhawella  Oanga  by  a  fine  bridge  on 
leaving  Kandy,  takes  us  to 


16  m.  Matala  terminue  sta.  (R.H.) 
good,  a  large  and  flourishing  village 
oeautifully  situated.  Tea-estates  are 
rapidly  extending  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Matale,  and  the  beauty  of  the  scenery 
is  consequently  disappearing  with  equal 
rapidity;  but  the  drive  between  Ma- 
tale and  Nalande  is  still  very  pleasing. 
The  ground  is  well  broken  and  beauti- 
fully varied  with  wood  and  cultivation. 
About  a  couple  of  miles  out  of  Matale* 
only  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
road-side,  is  the  remarkable  Buddhist 
temple  of  Ala  Vihara,  which  it  is  well 
worth  stopping  for  a  few  minutes  to 
visit.  Huge  masses  of  granite  rock  have, 
at  some  remote  period,  fallen  from  the 
mountains  bverhauging  the  valley. 
In  the  fissures  of  these  boulders,  at  a 
considerable  height  above  the  road,  the 
monastery  has  been  constructed.  It 
is  difficult  to  imagine  a  site  more 
picturesque,  or  more  theatrical. 

90  m.  Nalanda.  The  R.H.  (good)  is 
prettily  situated  under  fine  trees,  the 
finest  of  which,  a  gigantic  tamarind, 
the  Public  Works*  Department  has 
often  striven  to  remove  in  order  to  im- 
prove 'the  * '  symmetry  "  of  the  approach. 
A  steep  descent  leads  to  a  bridge ;  a  path 
from  which,  of  about  J  m.  to  the  E., 
conducts  the  traveller  to  the  ruins  of 
a  Hindu  temple  beautifully  situated. 
The  road  for  the  first  5  m.  after  leav- 
ing Nalande  is  very  pleasing,  passing 
through  fine  open  woods,  among  the 
trees  of  which  peeps  of  bare  rocky 
mountains  and  a  rushing  stream'  are 
obtained.  At  Naiila  a  road  to  the  W. 
leads  to  Elahera^  the  head  works  of  an 
ancient  irrigation  system  of  colossal 
dimensions. 

45  m.  Dambool  (R.H.)  excellent,  a 
large  village  immediately  under  the 
huge  black  rook  in  which  is  situated  the 
Cave  Temple  that  makes  this  place 
famous,  but  which  presents  no  great 
attraction  to  those  wno  have  seen  the 
cave  temples  of  India.  At  the  same 
time.  Sir  Emerson  Tennent  says  of  it, 
"from  its  antiquity  its  magnitude, 
and  the  richness  of  its  decoration,  it  is 
by  far  the  most  renowned  in  Ceylon." 
There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  top  of 
the  rook.  The  tempi  c  has  large  landed 
possessions  in  the  neighbourhood. 


456 


OBTZiOK 


[If  time  permits,  on  interesting  exoor- 
aion  may  be  made  to  the  rock-fortress 
of  Sigiri,  to  which  the  uarricide  King 
Easyapa  retired  in  the  5tn  century  after 
obtaimng  the  throne  of  Ceylon  by  the 
murder  of  his  fisither,  Dhatu  Sena.  This 
extraordinary  natural  stronghold,  about 
15  m.  N.E.  from  Dambool,  is  situated 
in  the  heart  of  the  great  central  forest, 
aboye  which  it  rises  abruptly,  like  the 
Bass  Bock  out  of  the  sea.  The  journey 
is  best  performed  on  horseback,  as  the 
track  after  leaving  the  Trincomalee 
Road  is  rough.  Otherwise  it  is 
necessary  to  take  a  bullock-cart,  and 
the  slowness  of  its  progress  necessitates 
a  yery  early  start  Inere  are  but  few 
traces  of  the  hand  of  man  remaining 
upon  the  rock,  except  some  galleries 
on  the  N.W.  side  and  some  frescoes 
high  up  in  a  cavity  near  its  summit — 
accessible  only  with  the  aid  of  scaling 
ladders.  The  palace,  the  site  of  which 
is  just  traceable  on  the  N.  W.  side,  and 
the  rock  itself,  are  supposed  to  have 
been  surrounded  by  a  fosse, — a  tank 
still  exists  on  tibe  S.W.  side.] 

3  m.  after  leaving  Dambool  the 
Mirisgoni  Oya  is  crossed  by  a  very  high 
bridge.  Inunediately  after  passing  it 
the  road  divides.  The  road  straight 
on  leads  N.E.  to  Trincomalee  (see 
Route  8) ;  the  branch  turning  to  the 
left,  N.,  is  that  for  Anuradhapura  and 
Jaffiia,  and  passes  over  an  undulatmg 
park -like  country  and  past  many 
newly  restored  irrigation  works  to 

58  m.  Kekerawa  (R.H.)  good. 

[FromKekerawaan  expedition  should 
\f%  made,  8  m.  by  good  carriage-road, 
to  the  Great  Tank  of  KALAWEWA.  3^ 
This  magnificent  sheet  of  water  was 
originally  formed  by  King  Dhatu 
Sena  about  400  a.b.,  who  bu3t  a  bund 
6  m.  long,  60  ft.  high,  and  20  ft.  broad 
on  the  top.  This  bund  retains  the 
waters  of  two  rivers,  and  forms  a  lake 
which  even  now,  when  the  spill  only 
reaches  a  height  of  25  ft.,  has  a  contour 
of  nearly  40  m.  A  great  canal  from 
one  of  the  sluices  of  this  tank  carries 
water  to  Anuradhapura,  a  distance  of  52 
m.,  and  supplies  over  100  yiUage  tanks 
in  its  course.  A  few  miles  of  the  canal 
at  the  end  nearest  Anuradhapura  were 


restored  by  Sir  William  Gregory  nearly 
20  years  ago,  but  the  tank  itself  and 
the  remainder  of  the  canal  remained  in 
ruin,  as  they  had  been  for  mazry  cen- 
turies, till  1884,  when  the  Ceylon 
Government  decided  to  restore  them. 
The  work  was  completed  at  the  end  of 
1887.  The  bungalow  of  the  engineer 
in  charge  commands  a  fine  view  ovct 
the  lake.  The  ancient  spill,  260  ft 
long,  200  ft  wide,  and  40  ft  high,  is 
still  in  perfect  preservation  ;  the  tank 
having  been  destroyed,  not  by  any 
failure  of  the  spill,  but  by  an  enormous 
breach  on  one  side  of  it, — ^now  covered 
by  the  new  spill  wall,  a  fine  structure 
nearly  1000  ft  in  length,  which  reflects 
much  credit  on  its  desi^er  and  builder, 
Mr.  W.  Wrightson,  of  the  Ceylon  Public 
Works  Department  2  m.  W.  of 
Kalawewa  is  the  Aokuna  Vihara,  an 
ancientmonastery in  awild  and  secluded 
situation,  where  is  an  enormous  rock- 
cut  standing  statue  of  Buddha,  40  ft. 
high.  The  statue  stands  almost  en- 
tirely free  of  the  rock  from  which  it  is 
carved,  and  the  right  arm  is  raised 
and  free  from  the  body  of  the  statue. 
At  the  foot  of  the  bund  are  ruins  of 
the  very  ancient  city  of  Vigitipiixa.] 

The  road  from  Kekerawa  passes  for 
the  most  part  through  monotonous  and 
uninteresting  forest  to 

70  m.  Tirapane  (R.H.)  4  m. 
farther  there  is  a  division  in  the  road. 
The  branch  leading  due  N.  is  the  straight 
road  to  Jaffiia  through  Mihintide ; 
that  to  the  N.W.  proceeds  in  nearly 
a  straight  line  to 

84  m.  ANURADHAPUBA  (R.H.) 
good.  The  traveller  who  contemplates 
a  thorough  examination  of  the  ruins 
is  advised  to  call  on  the  Grovemment 
Agent  at  the  Cutcherry,  from  whom  he 
wSl  obtain  all  necessary  information 
and  assistance.  Anuradhapura  became 
the  capital  of  Ceylon  in  the  5th  cent 
B.C.,  and  attained  its  highest  magni- 
ficence about  the  commencement  of 
the  Christian  era.  It  suffered  much 
during  the  earlier  Tamil  invasions,  and 
was  finally  deserted  as  a  royal  residence 
769  A.D.  A  small  village  has  alwaj! 
remained  on  the  site,  but  it  is  i 
since  the  constitution   of  the  Ko 


BOITTB  7.      KANDY  TO  JAFFNA 


467 


Central  Province,  in  1872,  by  Sir  W. 
Gregory,  that  any  revival  has  taken 
place  in  this  much  neglected  district. 
Since  that  date,  hunareds  of  village 
tanks  have  been  restored ;  famine  and 
the  dreadful  disease  called  parangi 
(produced  by  the  use  of  bad  water  and 
insufficient  food)  have  been  driven 
away,  and  the  population  is  yearly 
becoming  more  prosperous  and  healthy. 

With  a  few  exceptions,  the  objects  of 
interest  at  Anuradhapura  maybe  divided 
into  three  classes — Xkigobas,  Moncutic 
buildings,  and  Pokunas, 

I.  Da«roba8.~A  dagoba  is  a  bell- 
jshaped  construction  erected  over  some 
relic  of  Buddha  or  his  chief  disciples. 
It  is  always  solid,  and  is  surmounted 
by  a  cubical  structure  called  the  tee, 
which  again  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
spire.  The  number  of  dagobas  in 
Anuradhapura  is  countless,  and  they 
vary  in  size  from  the  enormous  masses 
of  tne  four  great  dagobas  to  tinyobjects 
barely  2  or  3  ft.  in  diameter.  The  four 
chief  dagobas  are — 

1.  The  Ruanwelli  Dagoba,  completed 
.140  B.C.  Its  diameter  is  370  ft.,  but 
it  does  not  retain  its  ori^nal  altitude, 
having  been  much  injured  by  the 
Tamils  in  different  invasions.  It  is 
now  only  150  ft.  in  height.  The  lower 
part-  of  the  structure  and  the  platform 
on  which  it  stands  have  been  carefully 
cleared  about  the  year  1873,  and  the 
various  fragments  of  the  so-called 
"  chapels  "  put  together  and  restored. 

2.  The  Abhayagiriya.  This  is  the 
largest  dagoba  in  Anuradhapura.  Its 
diameter  is  357  ft.,  and  its  height  when 
perfect  was  405  ft.  It  has  now  lost 
great  part  of  the  pinnacle,   and  its 

firesent  height  is  only  about  830  ft. 
t  stands  on  a  grand  paved  platform, 
8  acres  in  extent,  raised  some  feet  above 
the  surrounding  enclosure.  The  enor- 
mous mass  of  bricks  in  this  structure 
baffles  conception.  Emerson  Tennent 
calculates  that  they  are  sufficient  to 
construct  a  town  of  the  size  of  Ipswich 
or  Coventry,  or  to  build  a  wall  10  ft. 
high  from  London  to  Edinburgh.  The 
tee  on  the  summit  having  shown 
symptoms  of  falling,  it,  and  what  re- 
mained of  the  stump  of  the  spire  above 
it,  have  been  put  into  a  thoroughly  safe 


condition  by  the  Ceylon  Government, 
but  the  lower  part  remains  overgrown 
and  untouched.  It  was  completed  87 
B.C.  The  summit  can  now  oe  easily 
reached,  and  commands  a  magnificent 
view. 

3.  The  Jaytawanarama,  built  276 
A.B.,  was  of  about  the  same  dimensions 
as  the  Abhayagiriya.  No  restoration 
has  been  attempted  here,  but  the  trees 
which  grew  all  over  it  have  been 
cleared  off  its  surface. 

4.  The  Miriswetiya,  though  smaller 
than  the  foregoing,  is  remarkable  for 
the  unusually  fine  sculpture  of  its  so- 
called  "chapels."  It  is  now  being 
restored,  chiefly  at  the  expense  of  a 
Siamese  prince. 

Among  the  minor  dagobas,  the  Lan- 
karama  and  Thuparama,  each  sur- 
rounded by  three  circles  of  carved 
columns,  are  among  the  most  remark- 
able and  most  elegant. 

II.  The  remains  of  Monastic  Build- 
ings are  to  be  found  in  every  direction, 
in  the  shape  of  raised  stone  platforms, 
foundations,  and  stone  pillars.  The 
walls  themselves  between  the  pillars 
have  usually  disappeared.  One  of  the 
most  remarkable  of  these  remains  is  to 
be  seen  near  the  R.H.  It  consists  of 
1600  stone  pillars  about  12  ft.  high  and 
only  a  few  feet  distant  from  each  other, 
arranged  in  about  100  parallel  rows. 
These  pillars  formed  the  lowest  story 
of  the  famous  nine-storied  "Brazen 
Palace,"  or  monastery,  erected  by  King 
Datagamana  about  400  a.d.  But  the 
clusters  of  piUars,  with  capitals  more  or 
less  highly  carved,  and  of  platforms  of 
pavilions  in  every  direction  for  10  m. 
are  innumerable.  Among  the  most 
remarkable  is  one  called  the  Queen's 
Palace,  the  semicircular  door-step  of 
which  is  carved  with  a  double  proces- 
sion of  animals  and  studies  of  flowers. 

III.  The  Pokunas  are  bathing-tanks, 
or  tanks  for  the  supply  of  drinking 
water.  They  differ  from  irrigation 
tanks  in  being  wholly  constructed  of 
masonry  or  of  cement.  These  too  are 
countless  in  number,  and  are  to  be 
found  everywhere  through  the  jungle. 
The  finest  is  the  double  bathing-tank 


468 


CSYliOH 


in  the  outer  drculai  road,  into  irhich 
elaborately  carved  staircases  descend. 

But  there  is  one  object  of  interest  in 
Anuradbapora  which  does  not  come 
under  any  of  these  heads— the  sacred 
Bo  tree  and  its  surroundings.  This 
tree,  of  which  only  a  fragment  now 
remains;  is  probably  the  oldest  histori- 
cal tree  existing.  It  was  planted  245 
B.C.,  and  from  that  time  to  this  has 
been  watched  over  by  a  succession  of 
guardians  never  interrupted.  It  stands 
on  a  small  terraced  mound,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  goodly  number  of  promis- 
ing descendants.  The  adjacent  build- 
ings are  all  modem,  but  the  entrance 
to  the  enclosure  possesses  a  fine  semi- 
circular door-step  or  "moon  stone." 

The  large  tanks  of  Nuwerawewa, 
Tissawewa,  and  Basawakulam,  the  two 
latter  of  which  are  filled  from  Kala- 
wewa,  have  restored  to  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Anuradhapura  much  of  its 
former  fertility. 

[8  m.  E.  of  Anuradhapura  Is  ID- 
hi]itale(B.H.),  a  rocky  hill  crowned  with 
a  large  dagoba,  and  literally  covered 
with  the  remains  of  temples,  monas- 
teries, and  hermitages.  Ancient  stairs  of 
many  hundred  steps  lead  to  the  summit, 
whence  there  is  a  very  fine  view  over 
the  forest  plain,  ftt)m  which  the  great 
dagobas  of  Anuradhapura  stand  up  like 
ttie  pyramids  or  natural  hills.  The 
centre  of  attraction  at  Mihintale  is 
MahifMs  Bed^  the  undoubted  cell 
occupied  by  Mahindo,  the  apostle  of 
Buddhism  in  Ceylon,  and  containing 
the  stone  couch  on  which  he  lay.  It 
is  difficult  of  access,  but  the  view  from 
it  repays    the    exertion    of   reaching 

On  leaving  Anuradhapura,  the  road 
passes  through  uninteresting  low  jungle 
all  the  way  to  JSlepkant  Pass.  The 
stages  are  as  follows  : — 

95  m.  from  Kandy  (by  direct  road 
through  Mihintale),  Maddawachchiya, 
R.H.,  an  insignificant  village,  but  im- 
portant,as  the  point  of  junction  of  four 
main  roads. 

[A  roadhence  KW.  leads  toUannaar 
(147  m.),  passing  the  unfinished  Oicmt's 


Tank  and  the  magnificent  masonry  data 
which  was  to  divert  the  Arum  Aar  to 
^  it.  Mannaar  is  a  dreary  spot  com- 
manded by  an  old  Dutch  fort,  and  only 
remarkable  for  the  number  of  the 
African  Baobabs  which  grow  freely 
there,  having  probably  been  imported 
by  Arabs  in  the  Middle  Ages.] 

Ill  m.  Vavoidya-  vIlaiikTilantj  a 
small  town,  the  headquarters  of  the 
district,  on  the  edge  of  a  newly  restcmd 
tank.     Fair  R.H. 

120  m.  Irampaiklralajn  B.H. 

[Road  branches  off  here  to  MnllalJb- 
tiva  on  N.E.  coast.] 

132  m.  Eanakarayanknlam  R.H. 

142  m.  Panikkaoknlam  R.H. 

154  m.  Inmamadu  R.  H. 

-AU  these  are  small  R.H8.,  with  a 
certain  amount  of  rough  fumiture,  but 
without  linen  or  any  stock  of  provi- 
sions. 

The  scrub  gets  lower  and  smaller,  and 
the  soil  poorer  and  'sandier,  as  we  pur- 
sue the  tedious  straight  road  to 

166  m.  Elephant  Pass.  So  named 
because  here  the  herds  of  elephants 
were  in  the  habit  of  coniing  from  the 
mainland  through  the  shallow  water  to 
the  peninsula  of  Jaffna,  which  is  nev 
entered  by  a  long  causeway  croesiiig 
the  arm  of  the  sea  which  aU  but  divides 
the  district  of  Jaffna  from  the  remaiBdar 
of  Ceylon. 

The  E.H.  is  the  old  Dutch  f<xtat 
the  edge  of  the  water, — quaint  and 
picturesque. 

174  m.  Pallai  (R.H.)  "We  aie  nw 
in  a  totally  different  region  from  that 
between  Anuradhupura  and  Elkphaat 
Pass.  The  peninsula  of  Jaffna  is  the 
home  of  a  busy,  noisy,  and  ckndy* 
packed  population.  Every  acre  is 
cultivated  and  the  garden-culture  it  if 
beautiful  neatness.  The  fine  ran^ 
passes  through  a  suoceaeiott-  of  lofi 
villages  as  it  proceeds^ 

187 
immense  groves  of  the  palmyra  pi^ 


m.     Chayakachcheri    (B.E) 
a  large  villaj^  surrounded 'If 


ROUTE  8.       KANbt  TO  tRlNCOMALUlfi 


459 


wiiicli  in  this  Evince  takes  the  place 
occnpied  by  the  cocoa-nut  palm  in  the 
south.. 

201  m.  Jaftia  or  Jaffiiapatam,  a 
large  and  floniiahing  town  of  38,000 
inhabitants,  see  of  a  Boman  Catholic 
bishofx 

The  old  IhUch  Fort,  of  considerable 
size^  is  in  perfect  preservation,  and  is  a 
good  specimen  of  a  17th  cent,  fortifica- 
tion. Within  it  are  the  Queen*8  House 
(the  Goyeruor*s  residence  when  he 
visits  Jaffna),  an  old  Dutch  Ghwrch 
oontaining  curious  tombstones,  the 
residences  of  certain  officials,  and  the 
prison.  On  the  esplanade  between  the 
fort  and  the  ciW  stands  a  graceful 
Clock  Tower,  built  in  1882.  Many 
interesting  excursions  may  be  made 
from  Jafina,  of  which  those  best  de- 
serving mention  are,  perhaps,  the 
following  :— 

1.  To  the  AmericaB  Missicm  Stations 
at  Oodooville,  Batticotta,  and  Kopay, 
where  thooaands  of  children  are  edu- 
cated and  much  usefol  work  done. 

2.  To  Puttoor,  where  is  a  very  re- 
markable well  or  tank  of  great  de|>th, 
which  is  to  all  appearance  inexhaustible 
and  ebbs  and  flows  slightly  daily. 

3-  To  Point  Pedro,  lie  northern 
port  of  JafBota. 

There  are  some  interesting  Hindoo 
temples  at  Jaffna  and  in  its  vicinity. 


ROUTE  8 

Kaudy  to  Tkincomalke  (wich  excur- 
sion to  Pollokarua). 

(From  J>$mbool  a  mail  oarrioge  drawn  by  bul- 
locks starts  daily  for  Trincomalee.  The  ex- 
corsion  to  FoUonaroa  moat  be  made  on 
horseback.) 

As  far  as  Bambool  this  route  is  the 
same  as  Rte.  7. 

On  crossing  the  bridge  over  the 
Mirisgoni  Oya,  instead  of  turning  1.  to 
Anuradhapura  and  Jaffna  (Rte.  7),  the 
road  proceeds  straight  on,  and  passing 
rt.  the  track  to  Sigiri  (Rte.  7),  con- 
tinues chiefly  through  dense  but  poor 
forest,  varied  by  one  or  two  villages  in 
the  midst  of  small  clearings,  to 


60  m.  (from  Eandy)  Habarane 
(RH.)  The  village,  though  small,  is 
increasing  since  the  restoration  of  its 
tank.  There  is  a  picturesque  BvddMst 
Temple  of  consiaerable  antiquib^,  in 
which  are  paintings  of  better  design 
and  execution  than  are  usually  found 
in  such  places.  From  the  great  rock 
by  the  tank  a  singular  view  is  obtained 
over  the  great  sea  of  forest  to  the  N. 
and  E.,  out  of  which  rises  with  start- 
ling abruptness  the  rock  pillar  of 
Sigiri  (see  Kte.  7). 

[From  Habarane  an  extremely  inter- 
esting excursion  may  be  made  to  Pol- 
lonarua  (32  m.),  one  of  the  ancient 
and  deserted  capitals  of  Ceylon.  This 
expedition  must  be  made  on  horseback, 
as  the  road  is  merely  a  rough  bridle- 
path through  the  forest.  After  passing 
for  about  18  m.  through  wood  so  dense 
that  it  is  seldom  the  eye  can  penetrate 
more  than  a  few  yds.  on  either  side  of 
the  path,  Minexi  is  reached.  The 
journey  varies  in  length  according  to  the 
state  of  the  lake,  which  has  to  be  skirted, 
and  which  varies  in  size  considerably 
according  to  the  season.  This  lake  is  all 
that  remains  of  a  huge  tank,  the  bund 
of  which  stiU  exists,  but  of  which  the 
sluices,  though  not  destroyed,  are  now 
permanently  kept  open  by  fallen  masses 
of  masonry.  The  scenery  of  this  lake 
is  enchanting,  and  nothing  can  exceed 
the  beauty  both  in  form  and  colour  of 
the  mountain  *  ranges  to  the  S.  There 
is  a  sort  of  shelter  at  the  Gansabhawa 
tribunal  in  the  village  below  the  bund, 
but  the  traveller  is  strongly  recom- 
mended to  have  some  temporary  shelter 
put  up  for  him  on  the  bund  itself, 
where  there  is  fresh  air,  and  whence 
he  can  enjoy  the  exquisite  views  during 
a  midday  halt.  Half  way  between 
Mineri  and  Pollonarua  is  the  small 
lake  of  Giritella,  also  an  abandoned 
tank,  and  also  highly  picturesque. 
The  approach  to  Pollonarua  (R.H.), 
like  that  to  Mineri,  varies  considerably 
in  length  according  to  the  height  of 
water  in  the  lake.  On  the  bund  is  a 
R.H.  overlooking  the  lake.  The  view 
is  very  similar  to  that  from  Mineri, 
and  is  of  great  beauty,  though  less  so 
now  than  it  was  before  some  zealous 
public  officer,  in  his  desire  that  nothing 


460 


GSTLOir 


should  impede  the  view  to  the  S.,  cut 
down  a  clump  of  trees  on  a  projectii 
promontory,  which  must  have  formi 
a  loyely  foreground  to  it. 

Pollonarua  first  became  a  royal  resi- 
dence in  368  A.D.,  when  the  lake  of 
Topatoeioa  was  formed,  but  it  did  not 
take  rank  as  the  capital  till  the  middle 
of  the  8th  cent.  The  principal  ruins, 
however,  are  of  a  later  date,  being 
chiefly  of  the  time  of  Prakrama  Bahu, 
1153-1186  A.D.  It  is  now  whollv 
deserted,  and  the  masses  of  ruin,  which 
are  strewed  for  mileS  around,  have  to 
be  sought  in  the  dense  jungle.  The 
following  are  the  principal  objects  of 
interest. 

About  1  m.  S.  of  the  R.H.  is  the 
colossal  rook-cut  statue  of  Prakrama 
Bahu,  a  cast  of  which  is  to  be  seen  in 
the  Colombo  Museum.  To  the  W.  lie 
the  ruins  of  what  appears  to  have  been 
a  strong  tower,  the  probably  wooden 
interior  of  which  is  wholly  gone  ;  and 
a  little  farther  in  the  same  direction 
are  tiie  royal  pavilions  and  bathing- 
tank,  ornamented  by  much  elegant 
sculpture. 

About  i  m.  to  the  N.  is  a  remarkable 
group  of  buildings:  The  Dalada,  or 
tooth-shrine,  a  fine  granite  building  in 
good  preservation,  and  having  much 
elegant  ornament  of  quasi -Hindu 
design  ;  the  Thuparama,  a  large  mas- 
sivel)rick  building,  of  which  the  front 
and  the  roof  of  the  eastern  part  have 
fallen :  the  inner  chamber  preserves  its 
vault,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  tower  ; 
the  Wate  Dage,  a  curious  circular 
edifice  on  a  raised  mound,  with  4  carved 
staircases,  and  a  low  stone  terrace  with 
an  ornamental  parapet  of  unique  design; 
and  the  Ata  Dage,  a  large  temple  much 
ruined.  In  the  same  immediate  vicin- 
i^  are  the  Batmahal  Frasada, — a  tower 
of  seven  stories  of  diminishing  size ;  a 
Buddhist  **  post  and  rail "  enclosure ; 
and  a  little  farther  to  the  £.  the 
Vishnu  Dewale,  a  very  ornamental 
structure  of  semi -Hindu  design,  in 
good  preservation. 

i  m.  further  N.  is  the  Banket  Da- 
goba,  built  in  the  12th  cent.  It  is 
200  ft.  in  height,  with  a  diameter  of 
180  ft.  The  spire  is  very  perfect; 
even    the    statues    surrounding    the 


drum  being  clearly  disoemible.  Hear 
it,  but  to  tiae  N.,  is  the  Jeiawaoarama, 
a  temple  170  ft  in  length,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  a  statue  of  Buddha  over 
60  ft.  in  height.  The  Kizi  da^poba, 
about  100  ft.  high,  the  chunsm  coat- 
ing of  which  is  still  very  perfect,  is  in 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  this 

Anol^er  i  m.  of  jungle  has  to  be 
traversed  to  reach  the  Qnl  Vihara,  a 
spot  where  are  a  rook -cut  figure  of 
Buddha  sitting,  a  colossal  statue  of 
Amanda,  Budoha's  favourite  disciple^ 
and  a  reclining  figure  of  Buddha,  46 
ft.  long,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock. 

1  m.  farther  N.  again  is  the  Demala 
Maha  Saya,  a  very  large  building, 
highly  ornamented,  of  which  the  roof 
and  upper  part  of  the  walls  have  fallen 
in.  The  debris  was  partially  cleared 
away  in  1886,  when  many  interesting 
frescoes  were  found  on  the  walk,  but 
these  have  since  to  a  great  extent 
perished  from  exposnre. 

The  dagobae  of  Pollonarua  will  not 
compare  with  those  of  Anuradhapoia, 
but  the  buildings  of  the  temples  and 
other  structures  are  in  far  better  pre- 
servation. A  huge  red  lotus  grows  in 
great  profusion  in  the  lake,  probably 
the  descendant  of  those  cultivated  for 
use  in  the  temples  and  palaces  of  the 
city.  Pollonarua  seems  to  have  been 
abandoned  about  the  end  of  the  13th 
cent] 

75  m.  Alutoya  (B.H.),  in  the  midst 
of  the  thick  forest ;  not  a  bad  sta.  for 
sportsmen.  The  country  is  flat,  and 
the  jungle  of  such  uniform  character 
as  to  become  very  monotonous.  Mon- 
keys are  certain  to  be  seen  crossing  the 
road  in  large  troops,  during  tiiis 
portion  of  the  journey. 

92  m.  Eantalai  (B.H.),  on  the  bond 
of  the  flpeat  tank  of  Eantalai,  restored 
by  Sir  W.  Gregory  in  1876. 

106  m.  Palampoddam  (R.  H. ),  on  the 
edge  of  a  stream  in  a  very  wild  countiy. 

116  m.  Trincomalee  (R.H.),  atovB 
with  a  fine  harbour,  on  the  K.£.  ooait 
of  the  island.  It  is  built  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  bay,  on  the  neck  of  a  bold  pernn- 


ROUTE  9.      A  SPOTTING  TOUB 


461 


sola,  separating  the  inner  from  the 
oater  harbour.  The  latter  is  about  4 
sq.  m.  in  extent,  with  very  deep  water. 
Tne  place  is  well  laid  out,  but  the 
houses  are  poor.     Pop.  10,000. 

The  town  was  one  of  the  earliest 
settlements  of  the  Malabar  race  in 
Ceylon.  They  built  a  CTeat  temple  on 
the  spot  where  Fort  Frederick  now 
stands.  The  building  was  destroyed 
by  the  Portuguese  when  they  took  the 
place  in  1622,  and  the  materials  were 
employed  to  build  the  fort ;  but  the 
site  is  still  held  in  great  veneration, 
and  every  week  a  Brahman  priest,  in 
tlie  presence  of  a  large  crowd,  throws 
offerings  into  the  sea  from  a  ledge 
near  the  summit  of  a  huge  precipice  of 
black  rock  :  a  most  picturesque  scene. 
Since  the  expulsion  of  the  Portuguese, 
European  nations  have  held  the  place 
in  the  following  order:  Dutch,  1639 
A.D.  ;  French,  1673  a.d.  ;  Dutch,  167^ 
A.D.  ;  French,  1782  a.d.  ;  Dutch,  1783 
A.i>. ;  English,  1795.  It  was  taken  by 
the  English  fleet  after  a  siege  of  three 
weeks,  and  was  formally  ceded  to 
Great  Britain  by  the  Trea^  of  Amiens 
in  1801. 

Trincomalee  is  the  principal  naval 
station  of  the  Indian  seas.  The  dock- 
yard is  in  the  inner  harbour,  and  there 
is  deep  water  close  to  the  best  wharves. 
A  large  amount  has  lately  been  ex- 
pended on  the  improvement  of  its 
fortifications. 


ROUTE  9 

A  Sportino  Touii 

Such  a  tour  as  the  following,  of 
coarse,  requires  some  degree  of  prepara- 
tion. Though  there  are  Rest-Houses 
on  the  route  indicated,  they  are  but 
few.  They  contain  probably  no  furni- 
ture save  a  table  ana  a  bench  or  two, 
and  are  ouite  destitute  of  supplies. 
The  traveller  or  sportsman  will  have 
to  carry  his  own  food,  cooking  utensils, 
bedding,  and  tent ;  and  this  will  neces- 
sitate the  employment  of  numerous 
porters,  whose  pace  must  regulate  his 
own,  though,  if  on  horseback,  he  can 


get  over  the  ground  more  rapidly  than 
they  do.  If  expense  is  not  an  object, 
it  would  be  well  to  get  temporary 
shelters  of  bamboo  and  leaf  thatch  put 
up  at  those  places  where  there  is  no 
Rest- House,  for  the  tent  is  but  an  in- 
different protection  against  either  fierce 
sun  or  heavy  rain,  and  health  may 
seriously  suffer  in  consequence.  Of 
course  it  is  not  supposed  to  be  likely 
that  any  sportsman  would  make  the 
wJiole  of  this  tour,  but  it  indicates  a 
line  of  country  any  part  of  which 
would  make  a  good  centre  for  sport. 
The  animals  to  be  found  are  elephants, 
bears,  leopards,  deer,  and  in  some 
places  wild  buffaloes ;  wild  peacocks 
abound  in  the  forests,  and  the  tanks 
and  marshes  are  full  of  wildfowl ;  they 
also  swarm  with  crocodiles. 

Starting  from  Badulla  by  carriage 
the  road  to  Bibile  is  described  in 
Route  2. 

Here  wheel  conveyance  must  be 
abandoned,  and  the  distance  must  be 
counted  not  by  miles  but  in  hours, 
the  hour  being  calculated  on  the  ordi* 
nary  pace  of  a  loaded  porter. 

6  hrs.  Nilgala  (R.H.)  A  small  village 
with  a  little  patch  of  paddy  cultivation, 
situated  most  picturesquely  on  a  river 
at  the  entrance  to  a  wud  and  narrow 


4  hrs.  Dambegalla  (RH.)  A 
small  village,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
irrigation  works  have  recently  been 
constructed. 

8  hrs.  Meddegama  (RH.)  In  a 
very  pretty  jungle  country  abounding 
with  elephants. 

5  hrs.  Nakelo  (RH.)  There  is  a 
picturesque  Buddhist  temple  on  the 
side  of  a  mountain  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. 

3  hrs.  Buttale  (RH.)  An  oasis 
of  cultivation  in  the  jungle,  due  to 
the  restoration  of  its  ancient  irriga- 
tion works.  Everywhere  through  Qie 
forests  the  ruins  of  ancient  systems  of 
irrigation  and  other  vestiges  of  civilisa- 
tion are  to  be  found. 


46S 


CI7LQN 


4  hn.  M^.  A  mass  of  bare  rocks 
riaiDg  from  the  jungle.  There  is  no 
Best -House  here,  and  thougli  some 
shelter  may  be  obtained  in  caves,  tents 
or  a  temporary  house  would  be  needed 

5  hrs.  Katerag^am  (R.  H. )  A  famous 
place  of  Hindu  pilgrimage,  to  which 
worshippers  were  wont  to  resort  from 
all  parts  of  India,  as,  indeed,  they 
occasionally  still  do.  The  pilgrimage 
was  found  to  produce  such  miscnieyous 
effects  in  the  spread  of  disease  that 
the  Ceylon  Grovemment  has  for  many 
years  endeayoured  to  check  it,  and  it 
is  now  reduced  to  comparatively  small 
numbers.  Still,  at  the  time  of  the 
annual  pilgrimage,  the  temple  and  its 
vicinity  form  a  picturesque  and  inter- 
esting sight.  The  temple  itself  is  but 
an  insignificant  building,  and  a  single 
gilt-metal  tile  forms  the  only  relic  of 
the  golden  roof  for  which  it  was  once 
celebrated. 

6  brs.  Palatapaiie  (B.H.)  (see  p. 
464).     In  the  Southern  Province. 

4  hrs.  Yala  BiTer  (B.H.)  (a  mere 
hat).  We  are  here  in  the  midst  of 
the  best  sporting  country,  and  here 
begins  the  district  in  which  wild 
buffaloes  are  still  found.  Good  forest 
scenery  on  river. 

8  hrs.  TTda  Potana.  Ko  Rest-House. 
About  two  hours  from  TJda  Potana 
we  reach  the  ford  crossing  the  Kumba- 
kan  Aar,  the  boundary  between  the 
Southern  and  Eastern  rrovinces,  and 
about  an  hour  fisirther  is  Koxnani 
(R.H.),  near  a  small  village. 

4  hrs.  OJcanda  (R.H.)  at  the  foot  of 
a  bare  rock  rising  out  of  the  sea  of 
jungle.  Peacocks  are  to  be  found  in 
great  abundance  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Okanda. 

5  hrs.  Nanla  (R.H.),  a  small  village. 

6  hrs.  LahagalawOTfa.  A  restored 
tank ;  the  haunt  of  many  wild  fowl. 
There  is  a  Public  Works  '  Bungalow 


at  the  tank.     Its  acconmiodatioB  ii  \ 
limited.    Many  elephants  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

From  this  point  an  excursion  of 
some  days  may  be  made  throu^  t^ 
wild  country  on  the  border  of  Uvs 
and  the  Eastern  Province.  There  an 
next  to  no  villages,  and  the  onlj 
accommodation,  not  specially  provided 
for,  would  have  to  Be  found  in  tha 
mea^e  hospitality  of  some  aecladed 
Buddhist  monastery,  of  which  a  few 
are  scattered  through  the  forests.  It 
is  useless  to  indicate  any  particaltf 
route,  as  that  would  certamly  be  made 
to  depend  upon  the  reports  received  as 
to  tlM  haunts  of  wild  anunals  at  the 
time. 

It  may,  however,  be  assumed  that  a 
return  to  comparative  civilisation  will 
be  made  at  teakaynam,  a  restored  task, 
where  there  is  a  Public  Works  Bunga- 
low. In  its  vicinity  are  the  acastj 
ruins  of  what  was  once  an  enormous 
dagoba,  and  a  good  road  leads  henoe 
to  KalrCiunai  on  the  coast,  and  thenoe 
to  (22  m.)  Batticaloa  (see  Rte.  2).  'Rn 
sportsman,  however,  will  probably 
prefer  to  proceed  through  the  jungles  to 
Amparai  and  Chadiyantalawa  tanks, 
both  of  which  are  swarming  with 
crocodiles ;  and  from  the  latt^  to 

9  hrs.  the  river  Nental  Aar,  the 
boundary  of  the  Eastern  ProTince,  on 
crossing  which  the  trayeller  finds  him- 
self again  in  TJva. 

5  hrs.  riding  along  a  good  track  will 
bring  him  back  to  migala,  from  whence 
he  may  either  return  to  Badulla  the 
way  he  came,  or  by  6  hrs.  Meddegama 
(R.H.)  and  4  hrs.  Alupota  (R.H.)  in 
a  lovely  position,  rejoining  t^e  main 
road  to  Badulla  at  (2  hrs.)  Pattam 
(R.H.)  see  Route  2. 

Anuradhapura  and  Trincomalee  are 
also  good  centres  from  which  to  make 
sporting  excursions. 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTOEY  FOR   1903 


Mr.  Murray  will  feel  greatly  obliged  to  travellers  who  are  kind  enough  to  send  him  notes  of 
any  mistakes  or  omissions  that  they  may  notice  in  this  Directory,  giving  at  the  same  time 
a  permanent  address  to  refer  to  in  case  of  necessity. 

(R.)= Refreshment  Room  ;  D.B.  =  Dak  or  Travellers'  Bungalow ; 
R.H.  =  Rest  House  ;  H.  =  Hotel. 


ABBOTABAD,  D.B.,  212. 

ABU  (MOUNT).     See  Mount 
Abu. 

ABU  ROAD  (R.),  119. 

D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 
Ponies  and  other  convey- 
ances obtainable. 

ACHILGHAR,  120. 

ACHNERA  (R.),  167,  182. 

ADAM'S  PEAK,  446,  449. 

ADAMWAHAN       BRIDGE, 

224. 

ADONI,  333. 

AGRA  (R.),  D.B.  good,  167. 

Hotels :  Laurie's  Great 
Northern i/.,  about  1  m.  from 
rly.  sta. ,  best ;  H.  Metropole, 
newly  organised,  well  spoken 
of ;  Castle  <&  Imperial  H. 

Banks :  B,  of  Bengal,  The 
Uncovenanted  B. 

Ghurclies :  -S^.  George's, 
Cantonment,  Matins  daily, 
7.30  A.M.,  Sunday  10  a.m., 
with  H.  C. ;  Evensong,  6  p.m.  ; 
St.  Paul's,  Civil  Lines,  8 
A.M.,  Matins  with  H.  C. 
alternate  Sundays  ;  St. 
Mathias's,  Agra  Fort,  8  a.m.. 
Matins  alternate  Sundays; 
B.  C.  Cathedralin Civil  Jjines. 

Club :  Agra  C,  near  Post 
Office. 

Missions:  C.M.S.,  St. 
John's  College. 

Shops:  Shawl  Merchants, 
Gold  and  Silver  Embroidery, 
Ganeshi  Lall  and  Sons, 
Jahori  Bazaar ;  Soap-stone, 
and  Inlaid  Marble  Work, 
Natlhoo  Ram,  opposite 
Agra  College. 

AHAR,  86. 

[India^  ii.  03.] 


AHMEDABAD  (R.),  111. 
No    Hotel:    D.B.    2    m. 
from    rly.    sta.,    near    the 
Church  ;    Good   Bedrooms 
'  attached  to  the  rly.  sta. ,  but 
these  are  apt  to  be  noisy. 
Refreshment  Rooms. 
AHMEDNAGAR(R.),D.B.330. 
Club  good. 
Golf  Club. 

Missions:  S.P.G.,  see  p. 
330. 
AIWALLI,  315. 
AJANTA,  31. 
AJMERE  (R.),  123. 

Sleeping  Rooms  at  the 
Rly.  Sta.  excellent.    D.B. 
Club :  Kaiser  Bagh. 
Mission :  Medical  of  U.F. 
Church  of  Scotland. 
AJODHTA,  249. 
AKOLA,  74. 
AKTAB,  D.B.,  438. 

Club  :  Akyab  Gymkhana 
Club,  Main  Road. 

General  Stores  :    Wood- 
ward and  Co.,  Jacob  and  Co., 
Cohen  and  Abdul  Kadir. 
ALIABAD  SERAI,  220. 
ALIGARH,  257. 

D.B.  fair.     Kellner's  Re- 
freshment    and     Sleeping 
Rooms. 
ALIWAL,  196. 
ALLAHABAD  (R.),  36. 

Kellner's  Rooms,  at- 
tached to  the  rly.  sta.,  afford 
comfortable  sleeping  accom- 
modation, and  are  con- 
venient for  a  brief  stay. 
Chota-hazri  is  provided  in 
the  rooms,  but  other  meals 
have  to  be  taken  in  the  Rly. 
Refreshment  Room. 

Hotels  :    Laurie's    Great 

Northern  H.;  Gt.  Eastern  H. 

Club :  i^.  W.  P.  Club. 

Missions  :    C.M.S.,    St. 

Paul's     Church ;     Divinity 

College. 

Newspapers:  The  Pioneer, 


a  daily  paper,  one  of  the 
most  important  in  India; 
The  Pioneer  Mail,  for  readers 
in  Europe.  The  Morning 
Post. 
ALMORAH,  254. 

D.B.,  but  no  hotels. 

Houses  are  to  be  obtained 
on  hire. 

ALOR,  226. 
AI^UPOTA,  R.H.,  462. 
ALUTNUWERA,  447. 

ALUTOYA,  R.H.  small,  well 
situated  for  sportsmen,  460. 

ALWAR  (Ulwar),  180. 

D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 
Application  should  be  made 
beforehand  to  the  Mahara- 
jah's Secretary  for  rooms, 
and  for  the  use  of  a  carriage, 
which  is  kindly  put  at  the 
disposal  of  visitors  (there  is 
a  small  charge);  also  for  per- 
mission to  visit  the  Palace, 
Library,  Treasury,  and 
Armoury.  There  are  Rooms 
at  the  Mahara^iah's  private 
rly.  sta.  Travellers  are  some- 
times allowed  to  occupy 
them  on  application  to  the 
Maharajah's  Secretary,  but 
they  are  not  good,  and  there 
is  no  cook  on  the  premises. 
Mission:  U.F.  Ch.  of  Scot. 

AMARAPURA,  429. 

AMARAVATI,  360. 

AMARKANTAK,  76 

AMARNATH  CAVE,  219 

AMBALANGODA,  R.H.  first- 
class  :  good  bathing-place, 
452. 

AMBALANTOTTA,  R.H.  fair, 
453. 

AMBARNATH,  28,  318. 

AMBEPUSSA,  443. 

AMBER,  128.     See  Jeypore. 
(R.)  at  foot  of  hill. 

2  r 


466 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


AMGAON  (R.),  76. 

AMMAYANAYAKANUR, 

404. 

D.B.  comfortable,  close 
to  rly.  sta.,  convenient  for 
travellers  to  and  from 
Palney  Hills,  Madura. 

AMPARAI,  462. 

AMRAOTI,  84,  74. 

Waiting  axLd  Refresh- 
ment  Rooms.    Good  D.B. 

AMRITSAR  (R.),  196. 

D.B.  poor.  Hotel:  Civil 
d Military  H.  Travellers  are 
recommended  to  take  rooms 
and  have  chota-hazri  here, 
but  to  have  other  meals  at 
the  rly.  sta,  close  by. 

Missions :  C.M.S.,  St. 
Paul's  Church ;  Schools  and 
Hospital. 

ANADRA,  D.B.,  121. 

ANAGUNDI^353. 

ANAND,  110. 

ANANDALE,  192. 

ANDHOR,  88. 

ANJIDIVA  ISLAND,  364.  ' 

ANURADHAPURA,        R.H. 

good,  456. 

ARGOT,  871. 

ARJUNA'S  PENANCE,  411. 

ARKONAM  (R.),  335. 

Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation at  rly.  sta. 

ARRAH,  D.B.,  47. 

ARSIKERE  (R.),  862. 

ASENSOL,  51,  78. 

ASIRGARH  HILL-FORT,  34. 

ASOKA'S  PILLARS,  38,  142. 

ASSAM  VALLEY,  273. 

Mail  Communication 
with  Calcutta.  The  mail 
train  leaves  Calcutta  at  1 
P.M.,  reaches  Teesta  at  8 
A.M.  next  morning,  and  is  at 
Jatrapur  on  the  Brahma- 
putra the  same  afternoon. 
The  mail  steamer  starts  in 
connection  with  the  train 
up-stream,  via  Dhubri,  and 
reaches  Gauhati  the  next 
evening,  and  Dibnigarh  3 
days  later. 

Missions:  American  Medi- 
al Mission  has  several  sta- 
tions in  Assam. 

ASSAROREE,  D.B.,  256. 
ATCHIBAL,  219. 


ATTOOK,  R.H,,  212. 

AURANGABAD,  D.B.  good, 
65. 

AVA,  429. 

AVANTIPORE,  219 
AVISAWELLA,    R.H.    excel- 
lent, 449.     Hotel. 
AWATKOOLA,  217. 
AZIMGANJ,  264. 


B. 

BADAMI,  312. 

BADNBRA  (R.  and  Waiting 
Room),  D.B.,  74. 

BADULLA,  R.H.  good,  447. 
BAGDEHI,  77. 
BAHADARPUR,  109. 
BAHAWALPUB,  D.B.,  224. 
BAILLUR,  360. 
BALANGODA,  R.H.,  450. 
BALAPILLI,  335. 
BALASORE,  D.B.,  292. 
BALIGUNJ,  61. 
BALIPITHAM,  409. 
BALSAR,  105. 
BALTAL,  219. 
BAMBURA,  231. 
BANAWAR,  360. 
BAND  A  (B.),  D.B.,  103. 

Club :  Banda  C. 
BANDARAWELLA,  450. 
Good  hotel.      Coach  to 
BaduUa. 
BANDEL,  64. 
BANDIKUI  (R,),  129,  167. 
BANDRA,  104. 

BANGALORE  (R.),  376. 

Hotels :  West  End  H.  best, 
Cubbon  H.  (accommodation 
at  these  2  hotels  is  above  the 
average),  Bowring  H.^  Mayo 
H.,  Cantonment  H.,  Polo 
Ground  H. 

Club:  United  Service  C, 
27  Residency  Road. 

BANKIPUR  (R.),  48. 

D.B.  good,  near  rly.  sta. 

Bank  :  Bank  of  Bengal. 

Churches  :  St.  Mark's  and 
St.  Thormis's. 
BANSHANKAR,  814. 
BARA,  D.B.,  214. 
BARADE,  287. 
BARAKAR,  51. 
BARAMGALLA,  D.B.,  220. 
BARAMDLA,  217. 

D.B.    Good. 


BARANG,  353. 
BARCHANA,  D.B.,  290. 
BARPA  HILLS,  164. 
BAREILLT,  D.B.,  238. 

Reynolds  and  Co,'s  Jtefresh- 
ment  Rooms  at  the  rly.  sta. 
Club :  Bareilly  C. 
BARNI  HAT,  D.B.,  274. 
BARODA,  108. 

Good  Befireshment  and 
Waiting  Rooms  and  sleep- 
ing accommodation. 

D.B.  in  camp,  IJ  m.  from 
rly.  sta. 

Churches :   Ajr&LicAjr— 
consecrated  by  Bp.  Heber, 
1824 ;  restored  1838.     There 
are  also  R.C.  and  Methodist 
Churches. 
BABRACKPUR,  62. 
BARSI  ROAD(B.),  R.H.,331. 
BARWA-SAUG  AR,  D.B.,  102. 
BASSEIN  (Burma),  4S8. 
BASSEIN  ROAD,  104. 

Waiting  Boom  at  rly.  sta. 
D.B.  near  ruins.    Write  to 
station-master  for  carriage. 
BASTAMBADI,  288. 
BATINDA,  166,  224. 
BATTIOALOA,  R.H.,  448. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B.I.S.N.  Co.,  W.  T.   Warn- 
beck  and  Co. 
BATTUL  OYA,  454. 
BATWA,  117. 
BAUMARI,  102. 
BAWAN,  219 
BEAWAR,  D.B.,  123. 
BEDSA  CAVES,  323. 
BELBLI,  236, 
BELGAUM  (B.),  290. 
D.B.  ^  m.  from  sta. 

BELIHULOYA,    R.H.   good, 

422. 
BELLARY(R.),  D.B.,  357. 

Hotel :  Abraham's  H. 
BBLPAHAN,  77. 
BBLUNGALA  HILL,  444. 
BELXTB,  360. 
BENARES,  D.B.,  39. 

Hotels :  B.  de  Paris,  good ; 

Clark's  H. 
Missions :     C.M.S.     (at 

Sigra),   St.    Paul's  Church, 

College  and  Normal  Schools. 
BENTOTTA,  R.H.  very  good, 

452. 
BERAB,  73. 
BERARLI,  221. 
BERHAMPUB,  D.B.,  266. 
BBRHAMPUR  (Gai^amX  Stt 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


467 


BEYPUR,  368. 

Steamsbip         Agents : 
B.I.S.N.  Co.,  Andre  wand  Co. 
BBYT,  164; 

BSZWADA  (B.) 

D.B.,  352,  358. 
Is  the  June,  of  the  B.  Coast 

Rly.  (of  which  the  first  sod 

was  cut  in  Oct.  1890)  with 

the  Bellary-Kistna  (8.  Mah- 

ratta  Rly.  Co.)  and  Nizam's 

Rlys. 
BHAJA  CAVES,  323. 
BHAKKUR  (R.),  D.B.,  225. 
BHAMO,  430. 

Rly.  open  to  Myitkyina  : 

Steamboats  have  ceased  to 

run. 
BHANDARA    ROAD,    D.B., 

76. 
BHAUNAGAR,  155. 

D.B.    Horse  and  huUock 

shigrams  to  be  had. 
BHAYANDAR,  104. 
BHEWANI,  165. 
BHILSA,  87. 
BHIMBER,  D.B.,  220. 
BHIM  TAL,  254. 
BHOJBEPURA,  263. 
BHOJPUR,  88. 
BHOPAL  (R.),  86. 

D.B.  near  rly.  sta. 
BHUMTI,  164. 

BHURTPUR,  167. 

D.B.  outside  the  Muttra 
Gate. 

BHUSAWAL  (R.),  34,  73. 

BHUTIA  BUSTI,  271. 

BHUVANESHWAR,  283, 353. 

BIBILB,  R.H.,  448. 

BIBI  NANI,  237. 

BIDAR,  351. 

BIJAPXTR  (R.),  304. 

D.B.  near  rly.  sta.,  where 
Tongas  are  to  be  had. 

BISLANIR,  123. 
BILASPUR  (R.),  76. 
BILE8HWAR,  164. 
BIALLAPATAM,  362. 
BINA  (R.),  89. 
BINDRABAN,  186. 
BLACK  PAGODA,  282. 
BOLAN  PASS,  236,  237. 
BOLARAM,  348. 

BOMBAY,  1. 

Hotels :     Men    properly 
introduced  can   obtain  ac- 


commodation at  most  of 
the  clubs  ;  Great  Western  H. 
(comfortable)  Apollo  Bandar 
H.,  both  in  Apollo  Street; 
Watson*8  Esplanade  H., 
good  position  close  to 
Secretariat:  this  hotel  has 
an  Annexe,  where*  travel- 
lers will  probably  be  more 
comfortable  than  anywhere 
else ;  The  Gymkhana  H.  in 
the  Fort,  small;  Camballa 
H.y  on  Camballa  Hill  (best 
for  a  lengthened  stay). 

Restaurants  :  Victoria 
Station  Restaurant :  The 
Apollo,  Apollo  Bandar ; 
Cornaglia  late  Pellti  (con- 
fectioner), 83  Meadow  St. 

Agents  :  Messrs.  King, 
King  and  Co.,  Standard 
Buildings,  Hornby  Row 
(branch  of  Henry  S.  King  and 
Co.,  65  Comhill),  Watson 
and  Co.,  8  Hornby  Road, 
Grindlay,  Groom  and  Co., 
Elphinstone  Circle.  These 
firms  undertake  all  business 
in  connection  with  travel- 
ling and  financial  arrange- 
ments, forwarding  of  goods, 
engaging  of  native  servants, 
etc.,  in  India. 

Thos.  Cook  and  Son,  Ram- 
part Row,  supply  all  kinds 
of  information  about  excur- 
sions and  tours  in  India,  and 
provide  circular  tickets,  etc. 

Bands :  On  certain  days 
of  the  week  at  the  Yacht 
Clxib  and  on  the  Esplanade, 
a  favourite  promenade  ;  also 
at  Victoria  Gardens,  By- 
culla,  on  Saturday. 

Bankers:  Bank  of  Bom- 
hay,  Elphinstone  Circle  ; 
Chartered  Bank  of  India, 
Elphinstone  Circle ;  Hong- 
Kong  and  Shanghai  Bank, 
Church  Gate  St.  ;  National 
5anA;  o/J?M?ia,  Rampart  Row. 

Baths :  Salt-water  Swim- 
ming Baths  on  Back  Bay, 
and  at  Breach  Candy,  The 
swimming  bath  is  60  ft.  by 
30  ft.,  and  from  4^  ft.  to 
10  ft.  deep.  The  subscrip- 
tion is  a  rupee  a  month,  and 
those  who  do  not  subscribe 
pay  2  annas  for  each  bath. 
Bathers  can  have  coffee  and 
cigarettes.  The  baths  are 
open  for  subscribers  on 
Sund.  before  8  a.m.  ;  on 
Tues.  and  PYid.  before  10 
A.M. ;  and  for  ladies  on 
Men.  and  Thurs.  before  10 
A.M.  At  other  hours  non- 
subscribers  may  bathe. 


Booksellers:  Thackerand 
Co.,  Ltd.,  A.  J.  Combridge 
and  Co.,  both  in  Esplanade 
Road. 

Chemists:  Kemp  and  Co., 
corner  of  Church  Gate  St. 
and*  Elphinstone  Circle; 
Treacher  and  Co.,  Esplanade 
Road  ;  Phillips  and  Co. ,  Es- 
planade Road ;  all  three 
have  establishments  at  By- 
culla ;  Taylor  and  Co.,  Es- 
planade. 

Cliiirches,  etc.,  see  pp.  9 
and  10. 

Clubs :  Byculla  Club,  Bel- 
lasis  Road,  Byculla,  with 
sleeping  accommodation  at- 
tached. Strangers  admitted 
as  hon.  members. 

Bombay  Club,  26  Esplan- 
ade. The  entrance  fee,  100 
rs.,  monthly  subscription, 
6  rs.  Strangers  admitted  as 
hon.  members.  Enquire  at 
Club  for  price  of  rooms. 
The  cuisine  is  good. 

Yacht  Club,  on  the  Apollo 
Bandar,overlookingthe  bay. 
Subscription  for  Strangers 
admitted  as  members,  16  rs. 
a  month.  Ladies  are  ad- 
mitted when  accompanied 
by  a  member  or  hon.  mem- 
ber. 200  rs.  entrance  fee  for 
permanent  membership,  and 
6  rs.  a  month. 

The  Bombay  Gymkhana 
and  Golf  Club,  Queen's  Road. 
Subscription,  4  rs.  a  month. 

Ladies'  Gymkhana,  The 
Ridge,  Malabar  Hill,  with 
lawn  tennis  and  badminton 
grounds.  A  favourite  resort 
in  the  evenings.  Fine  view 
over  Back  Bay.  Hon.  mem- 
bers admitted. 

Consuls:  American,  Mr. 
W.  T.  Fee,  Ezra  Building, 
Apollo  Bandar.  There  art> 
representatives  of  most 
other  nations. 

Conveyances:  A  carriage, 
with  a  single  horse,  will  cost 
5  rs.  a  day,  with  2  horses, 
10  rs. ,  but  there  are  plenty 
of  victorias  in  the  streets 
to  be  hired  by  the  trip  or 
for  the  hour  at  moderate 
fixed  fares. 

Dentists :  Bromley  and 
Campbell,  Dean  Lane. 

General  Stores :  Treacher 
and  Co.  ;  Bolton  and  Co., 
Esplanade ;  Army  and  Navy 
Stores,  Apollo  St.  ;  Phillips 
and  Co.,  Esplanade. 

Hairdressers  :  Fucile, 
under  Bombay  Club. 


468 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


Honse  ^ent :  E.  Flower, 
Hnmniam  St. 

Libraries:  J siatie Society 
Library  in  the  Town  Hall ; 
the  Sassoon  Institute,  Es- 
planade, adjoining  Watson's 
H.  (strangers  cun  jojp  the 
,  lending  library  Tor  a  week). 

Markets  :  Crawford,  for 
fruit,  vegetables,  flowers, 
poultry,  meat,  etc. 

Cloth,  in  Native  Quarter, 
8haik  Meinon  St. 

Cotton,  Cotton  Green, 
Colaba. 

Copper,  close  to  Momba- 
devi  Tank,  Native  Quarter. 

Opium,  there  is  no  definite 
market-place,  but  business 
is  transacted  in  the  streets 
of  the  Native  Quarter. 

MedioalMen:  Dr.  Sidney 
Smith,  Mazagon ;  Dr  Dim- 
mock,  Dr.  Childe,  F.  A.  Foy. 

Merchants:  for  Wood  carv- 
ing. Inlaid  work.  Silks,  and 
Ernbroideries,  Tellery  and 
Ck).,  Esplanade  Road  (very 
good),  and  also  at  the  shops 
in  Kalbadevi  Road  and  the 
adjoining  streets. 

Milliner,  Dressmaker, 
etc..  Miss  Watson,  Esplan- 
ade Road ;  Laidlaw  and 
Whiteway,  Esplanade ;  Bad- 
ham  and  Co. 

Missions,  etc.,  see  p.  10. 

Newspapers :  There  are 
two  leading  English  papers 
in  Bombay,  the  Times  of 
India  and  the  Bombay  Gaz- 
ette, besides  a  number  of 
native  papers.  The  Advo- 
cate of  India  is  an  English 
evening  paper. 

Ocnust :  Dr.  Herbert. 

Opticians :  Lawrence  and 
'  Mayo  ;     Marclcs  and   Co. — 
both  in  Esplanade  Road. 

Outfitters:  Badfuim  and 
Pile,  Limited;  Watson  and 
Co. ;  Ijaidlawand  Whiteway; 
Hoar  and  Co. — all  in 
Esplanade  Road. 

Photographers :  Raja 
Dindigal,  F.  Ahrle,  Esplan- 
ade  Road ;  Bourne  and 
Shepherd,  Esplanade  Road ; 
Taurine,  Meadow  Street. 

Railways:  There  are  two 
lines  out  of  Bombay — 

(1)  The  Great  Indian 
Penins^da  Rly.  (known  as 
tlie  G.  I.  P.)  from  Victoria 
Rta.,  for  Nagpur  and  Poona, 
Indore,  Jubbulpore,  Allaha- 
bad, Cawnpore,  Lucknow, 
Agra  and  Delhi,  Benares, 
Calcutta,  Hyderabad,  Ban- 
galore, Madras,  and  the 
south.     Express  trains  to 


Calcutta  via  Jubbulpore 
take  46  hrs.,  those  via  Nag- 
pur take  48  hrs. 

(2)  The  Bombay,  Baroiia, 
and  Central  India  JRly., 
for  Ahmedabad,  Eattywar, 
Rutlam,  Chitor  (for  Codey- 
pore),  Ajraere,  JeyjKjre, 
Agra,  Delhi,  Lahore,  and  the 
north.  Travellers  stopping 
in  or  near  the  Fort,  may 
start  from  Church  Gate  St. 
sta.  or  from  Colaba.  Those 
at  Malabar  HiU  or  Byculla, 
from  Grant  Road  sta. 

Steamship  Agencies  : 
Peninsidar  ot  Oriental  S.S. 
Co.,  8  Rampart  Row. 
Steamers  every  week  to 
Aden,  Ismailia,  Port  Said, 
Brindisi,  Malta,  Gibraltar, 
Plymouth,  and  London ; 
and  every  fortnight  to 
Venice,  Marseilles,  Colombo, 
Madras,  Calcutta,  Straits 
Settlements,  China,  Japan, 
and  Australia. 

British  India  S.N.  Co., 
Mackinnon,  Mackenzie  and 
Co.,  Green  St.,  for  Calcutta, 
and  coast  ports,  Karachi, 
Persian  Gulf,   Burma,  and 

B.  Coast  of  Africa. 

Hall  Line,  Edward  Bates 
and  Co.,  Elphinstone  Circle. 

Clan  Line,  Finlay,  Mulr 
and  Co. 

Messageries  Maritimes,  29 
Esplanade  Road. 

Nav.  Gen.  Italiana,  FloHo, 
andRubattino  UnitedCos.,  F. 

C.  Barbaro,  Sassoon  House. 
Austro- Hungarian  Lloyd's 

S.  N.  Co.,  H.  von  Hotfer,  50 
Church  Gate  St. 

Wilson  Line  of  Steamers, 
Finlay,  Muir,  and  Co.,  Com- 
mercial Road.  To  Karachi, 
Widdlesbro'  or  Hull  every 
fortnight. 

Anchor  Line  of  Steamers, 
W.  and  A.  Graham  and  Co., 
Graham's  Buildings  ;  and 
T.  Cook  and  Son. 

Stores :  Army  and  Navy, 
Apollo  Bandar,  convenient, 
well  supplied  (branch  of  the 
London  establishment). 

Theatres:  The  Gaiety  and 
the  Novelty,  near  the  Victoria 
sta.  at  the  S.  end  of  Esplan- 
ade Market  Road,  and  the 
Native  Theatre  in  Grant  Rd. 

Tourist  Office:  Messrs. 
T.  Cook  and  Son,  opposite 
Esplanade  H.,  are  also 
agents  for  rly.  tickets  and 
all  kinds  of  information  in 
connection  with  excursions 
and  tours  (e.g.  to  Blephanta 
and    Kanhari).        "  Cook's 


Indian  Tours,"  a  pamphlet 
(Is.),  containing  full  infor- 
mation about  tours,  price  of 
tickets,  etc.,  will  be  found 
very  useful. 

Tramways  ran  from  end 
to  end  of  Bombay,  and  ex- 
tend from  CoUiba  and  the 
Fort  to  Grant  Road,  to  Par- 
ell,  and  to  the  Docks. 

Wine  Merchants :  Phip- 
son  and  Co.  ;  Treacher  and 
Co.,  and  Bolton  and  Co. — all 
in  Esplanade  Road. 

BOR  GHAT,  320. 

BORIVLI,  22,  23,  104. 

BORPANI,  D.B.,  274. 

BOSTAN(B).,  235. 

BOWRINGPET,  876 
See  Kolar  Gold  Fields. 

BOTAD,  153. 

BRAHMAPUTRA.      RIVER, 
274. 

BREWERY   (R.)    (see   Kaini 
Tal).  253. 

BRITISH   FRONTIER  (R.), 
352 

BR0A(3H,  107. 

D.B.  in  town.  Waiting 
Room  at  sta. 

BUDDH  OAYA,  49. 

BULRAMPUR,  249. 

BUNDELKUND  PROVINGB. 
90 

BURCOOL,  363 

BURDWAN  (R.),  51. 
Kellner's  H. 

BURHANPUR,  34. 

D.B.  in  city  (Barrack 
Square),  poor. 

BUTTALE,  R.H.,  461. 

BUXAR  (R.),  47. 

D.B.  near  Fort.     Hotel 


CACHAR,  276. 

CALCUTTA,  52. 

Hotels:  The  Grand  S. 
best,  H.  Continental,  both 
in  Chowringhee ;  The  Great 
Eastern  H.,  Spence's  H. 
moderate,  H.  de  Paris  (B&Ji- 
sardCs),  DhurrumtoUa. 

Boarding  -  Houses  are 
numerous,  and  are  often 
l)referred  to  hotels,  especi- 
ally for  a  lengthened  stay 
in  Calcutta.  The  approxi- 
uiate  charges  are  150  rs. 
a  month,  or  5  rs.  a  day,  for 
board  and  lodging  (wine  not 
included).  In  the  heigbt  of 
the  season,  about  Christ- 
inas time,  charges  some- 
times run  up  to  8  rs.  and 
10  rs.  a  day.  Meals  ut 
taken  together  as  a  rale, 
but  in  some  houses  suites 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


469 


or  single  rooms  may  be  en- 
gaged, with  meals  served  in 
private. 

Boarding  Houses:  Mrs. 
Walter's,  6-9  Russell  Street, 
is  recommended;  Mrs.  Pell's, 
1  Little  Russell  Street,  9 
Middleton  Row  ;  Mrs. 
MonJ<f8,  11  Middleton  Row, 
15  Chowringhee,  13  Theatre 
Road  ;  Mrs.  Day's,  1  Theatre 
Road,  15  Chowringhee  ;  Mrs. 
Baily,  10  Middleton  Row. 

Restaurant  and  Con- 
fectioners: Peliti,  10  Es- 
planade, E. ;  Gt.  Eastern  H. 

Bankers  and  Agents : 
GiUanders,  Arbuthnot,  and 
Co.,Clive8t. 

GHndlay  and  Co.,  Hast- 
ings St. 

King,  Hamilton  and  Co. 
(Branch  of  Henry  8.  King 
and  Co.,  65  Comhiil), 
undertake  all  business  in 
connection  with  travelling 
and  financial  arrangements 
for  travellers  in  India. 

T.  Cook  and  Son,  11  Old 
Court  House  Street,  supply 
all  kinds  of  information 
about  excursions  and  tours 
in  India,  and  provide  circu- 
lar tickets,  etc. 

Banks:  Bank  of  Bengal,  Z 
Strand;  Agra  B.,  Mangoe 
Lane;  Ch.  Bk.  of  Iiuiia,  Aus- 
tralia and  China,  5  Council 
House  St. ;  Merc.  Bk.  of 
India,  Limtd.,  28  Dalhousie 
Sq.  ;  Delhi  and  Tjyndon  Bk., 
4  Council  House  St.  ;  Hong- 
Kong  and  Shanghai  Bkng. 
Corpor.,  Dalhousie  Sq.  ; 
National  Bk.  of  India, 
Council  House  St. 

Bath  :  An  excellent 
Swimming  Bath  on  the  Es- 
planade, admission  througli 
members. 

Booksellers  and  Sta- 
tioners: Thacker,  Spink, 
and  Co.,  Government  Place  ; 
the  best  in  India,  and  ex- 
cellent. IV.  Newm/xn  and 
Co.,  Dalhousie  Sq. 

Chemists  :  R.  Scott  Thom- 
son and  Co.,  15  Govern- 
ment Place,  E. ;  Bathgate 
and  Co.,  Old  Court  House 
St. ;  Smith  Stanistreet,  Dal- 
housie Sq. 

Churches :  {Anglican)— 
St.  Paul's  Cathedral;  St. 
John's  Church,  formerly  the 
cathedral ;  The  Old  Church 
(C.M.S.) ;  St.  Peter's,  in  the 
Fort;  St.  Thomas's  (the  Free 
School  Church). 

{Church  of  Scotland)— 
St.  Andrew's,  Dalhousie  Sqr., 


U.F.  Church  ofScotla)id,We\- 
lesley  Sq.,  Manse,  Park  St. 
Nonconformist:  TlieWVs- 
leyan  Church;  the  Baptist 
Chapel,  Lai  Bazar  and  Cir- 
cular Road ;  Congregational 
Union  CJiapel,  DhurrumtoUa 
&  Hastings ;  American  Meth. 
Episcopal,  DhurrumtoUa. 

Clubs  (Miscellaneous) : 
India  Club,  67  Bankshall  St. 
New  Club,  46  Park  St. 
Saturday  Club,  Wood  St. 
For  games  and  amusements. 
Ladies  can  become  members 
as  well  as  men. 

Golf  Club,  established  1829. 
Links  on  the  Maidan :  there 
are  two  courses  of  9  holes 
each. 

Clubs  (Residential):  Ben- 
gal Club,  38  'Chowringhee 
Road,  S.  side  of  Esplanade. 
The  houses,  1  Park  St.,  and 
1  and  6  Russell  St. ,  are  fitted 
as  chambers  for  residents  ; 
33  Chowringhee  Road,  C(m- 
tains  bedrooms  for  members. 
The  Club-housewas  formerly 
the  residence  of  Mr.  T.  h. 
(afterwards  Lord)  Macaulay. 
Members  of  this  Club  are 
hon. members  of  the  Jlfadms, 
Byculla,  Hong-Kong,  and 
Shanghai  Clubs,  &  vice  versa. 
'The  United  Service  Club, 
31  Chowringhee  Road.  At- 
tached to  it  are  the  houses  1 , 2 
and  3  Kyd  St.  and  56  T'ark  St. 
German  Club,  40  Free 
School  St. 

Consuls :  American,  3 
Esplanade  Row,  B. 

Conveyances :  Carriages 
can  be  hired  at  from  5  to  10  rs. 
a  day.  Cabs  (commonly 
called  ticca  garis)  are  plenti- 
ful, charges  motlerate. 

Dentists :  Mr.  Woods, 
25  Chowringhee  Road;  J. 
Miller,  35  Chowringhee 
Road ;  WaUon,  Wellesley  PI. 
Drapers :  Francis  Ramsay 
&  Co. ,  Govt.  PI . ;  Fran^  Ha r- 
rison,  Hathaway  <t  Co., Govt. 
PI. ;  Whiteway  &  Laidlam, 
Chowringhee  ;  Moore  dt  Co., 
Esplanade;  Phelps  &  Co. 
Old  Court  House  St. 

Jewellers,  Silversmiths, 
and  Watchmakers :  Hamil- 
ton and  Co.,  Old  Court 
House  St. ;  Cooke  and  Kelvey, 
Old  Court  House  St.  ;  Boseck 
and  Co.,  Wellesley  PI. 

Lady  Doctors :  Miss 
Baumler,  15  Chowringhee. 

Medical  Men:  Ih-.  A. 
Crombie,  47  Park  St.  ;  Dr. 
C.  H.  Joubert,  6  Harrington 
St.  ;    Dr.  Charles,   7   Park 


St. ;  Dr.  R.  C.  Sanders, 
36  Chowringhee  Road ;  Dr. 
Coulter,  Dr.  A.  Caddy,  2^ 
Harrington  St. ;  Dr.  E.  F. 
Greenhill,  3  Russell  St. 

Missions :  Oxford  Mission, 
42  Cornwall  is  Street.  The 
clergy  have  charge  of  a  Boys' 
High  School,  an  Industrial 
School  for  Natives,  a  Hostel 
for  University  Students,  and 
St.  James's  School  for  Eura- 
sians—all in  the  town ;  and  of 
village  schools  in  the  Suuder- 
ban,  3  m.  off.  The  Superior 
is  Principal  of  Bishop's 
College,  Circular  Road. 

S.P.G.  224  Lower  Circu- 
lar Road. 

The  Clewer  Sisters,  work- 
ing since  1881,  nurse  the 
General  Hospital,  Medical 
Staff  Hospital,  and  Eden 
Hospital ;  and  have  charge 
of  the  Canning  Home  for 
Nurses,  European  Girls' 
Orphanage,  and  Pratt  Me- 
mijrial  School.  In  1890  they 
took  over  from  the  Ladies' 
AssocJi.  {S.P.G.)  their  work 
in  the  rice-fields. 

C.M.S.,  10  Mission  Row, 
Divinity  School  ;  Old 
Church  ;  Trinity  Church  ; 
and  Christ  Church,  Boys' 
and  Girls'  Schools. 

Church  of  Scotland,  Corn- 
wall is  Square. 

U.F.  Churvli  of  Scotland,  2 
Comwallis  Square. 

Baptist  Mission  Society,  42 
Lower  Circular  Road. 

Native  Booksellers:  S. 
K.  Lahiri  and  Co.,  54  Col- 
lege Street ;  Shambhu  Chan- 
dra ^d(fi/,  Wellington  Street. 

Newspapers:  TheEnglish- 
'man,  9  Hare  St.,  the  leading 
paper  in  Bengal ;  Indian 
Dy.  News,  19  British  Indian 
St. ;  Statesman,  8  Chowring- 
hee Road ;  The  Asian  and 
The  Indian  Planters'  Gaz., 
both  devoted  to  sport  and 
planting  interests.  The  lead- 
ing Native  papers  in  Eng- 
lish are — The  Hindu  Pairiot, 
Indian  Mirror,  Amrita  Bazar 
Patrika. 

Opticians :  Lawrence  and 
Mayo ;  Solomons  and  Co. ;  N. 
Lazarus. 

Outfitters :  Gt.  Eastern 
Hotel  Co. ;  Ramsay,  Wakefield 
and  Co. ;  M  hitevxiy,  iMidlaw 
and  Co. ,  7  Esplanade,  East. 

Photographers :  Johnston 
and  Hoffmann,  22  Chowring- 
hee Rd. ;  Bmirne  and  Shep- 
herd, 8  Chowringhee  Road. 

Photographic     Appara- 


470 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


tns :   IF.  Newman  and  Co. 
Dalhousie  Sq. ;  John  Blees,  2 
Hare  St. 
Railways:    The    E.I.B. 

Sta.  at  Howrah,  for  Bombay 
via  Jabalpur,  Delhi,  Apra, 
etc.  The  Eastern  Bengal  R. 
Sta.  at  Sealdah,  for  Darjee- 
ling,  Dacca,  and  places  in 
Assam.  There  are  two  lines 
to  Bombay.  That  by  Jabal- 
pur takes  4tJ  hrs.,  and 
that  by  Nagpur  48  hrs. 
There  is  now  direct  com- 
munication between  Cal- 
cutta and  Madras  by  the 
East  Coast  Railway. 

Societies:  Charitable 
AND  Relioio  r 8.— Beaides 
the  above-mentioned  Socie- 
ties, the  following  have  their 
Indian  headquarters  in  Cal- 
cutta- -Th  e  Additional  Clergy 
Socty.  ;  The  Methodist  Episco- 
pal Mission;  The  London 
Missionary  Socty. ;  The  Wes- 
leyan  Missions ;  several 
special  Zenayia  Missions. 

Scientific^  etc.  —  The 
Asiatic  Society,  Park  Street, 
founded  by  Sir  William 
Jones ;  The  Microscopical 
Soc. ;  The  Photographic  Soc. 
have  rooms  in  the  same 
building;  Geology,  Ethnology, 
Mineralogy,  Natural  His- 
tory, Archeeology,  are  well 
represented  in  the  Indian 
Museumin  Chowringhee  Rd. 

Steamship  Agencies 
(General) : 

P.  &  0.  S.  N.  Co.,  Supt., 
E.  Trelawny,  19  Strand. 
Steamers  every  fortnight 
for  Colombo,  Aden,  Ismailia, 
Port  Said,  Marseilles,  Ply- 
mouth, and  London ;  also  for 
Bombay,  China,  Japan,  Aus- 
tralia, etc.  Special  attention 
is  called  to  the  second  saloon 
accommodation  of  this  Com- 
pany's steamers,  and  the  im- 
proved arrangements  for  the 
comfort  of  passengers  by 
that  class. 

British  India  S.  N.  Co., 
Mackinnon,  Mackenzie  aiid 
Co.,  16  Strand,  for  London, 
Colombo,  coast  ports,  Kar- 
achi, Persian  Gulf,  Burma, 
Straits  Settlements,  and 
Australia  via  Torres  Straits. 
City  Line  ofS.S.,  Gladstone, 
Wyllie  and  Co.,  Clive  St. 

Clan  Line  Steamers,  Finlay, 
Muir  and  Co.,  Clive  Street, 
2nd  class  accommodation 
specially  good. 

Messageries  Maritim£s,  19 
Strand. 
Avstro-Hungarian  Lloyd's 


S.  N.  Co.,  D.  Sassoon  and  Co., 
Clive  St. 

Anchor  Line,  praliam  and 
Co.,  9  Clive  St. 
Steamship  Agencies  (Local) : 
River  S.  Nav.  Co.,Macneill 
and  Co. 

Orissa  Carrying  Company's 
Steamers,  Macneill  and  Co., 
plying  between  Calcutta  and 
Ciiandbally. 

Asiatic  S.  N.  Co.,  Turner, 
Morrison  and  Co.,  6  Lyon's 
Range,  excellent,  accom- 
modation for  1st  class,  2nd 
class,  and  deck  (natives) 
passengers. 

A)iglo  -  Indian  Carrying 
Co.,  Balmer,  Lawrie  and  Co. 
(propi'ietors),  packages,  bag- 
gage, etc.,  to  or  from  Eng- 
land. Stores:  Army  and 
Navy. 

Tailors :  Ranlcen  and  Co. ; 
Ramsay,  Wakefield  and  Co. ; 
Harry  Clark ;  W.  H.  Phelps 
and  Co.  ;  Harmnn  and  Co. ; 
Badham  Bros.,  all  in  Old 
Court  House  St. 

Theatres :  The  Corinth- 
ian, Dhurrumtolla ;  The 
Royal,  Chowringhee  Road ; 
T'hie  Opera  House,  Lindsay 
St.  Native  Theatres  are 
chiefly  in  Beadon  St. 
CALICUT,  367. 

Hotel:  Mr.  P.  Canaren's 
H.,  on  the  Beach.  Qood 
D.B. 

Steamship         Agents: 
B. I.S.N.  Ca. 
OAMBAT,  110. 
CAMPOLI,  819. 
OANNANORE,  366. 

D.B.  good. 
CASHMERE,  208,  211,  216. 

(See  Srinagar.) 
CASTLE  ROCK  (R.),  301. 
CAUVERT  FALLS,  379. 

Dak  Bullocks  on  previous 
notice    to    Dep.    Commis- 
sioner of  Bangalore  District. 
CAWNPORE,  260  (R.  good). 
Hotels:    Civil  and  Mili- 
tary, good  :  the  best ;  Em- 
press H.,  Victoria  H. 
Club:  Cawnpore  C,  Mall. 
Missions :  theS.P.G.  (Mis- 
sion House,  Christ  Church) 
have  charge  of  Christ  Church 
School  and  College,  General- 
ganj   School,  and    a   Girls' 
Boarding  School. 

The    Ladies'    Association 
(S.P.G.)  have  6  schools  and 
work  in  the  zenanas. 
CHADIYANTALAWA,  462. 
CHAGOTI,  D.B.,  217. 


CHAIBASA,  78. 
CHAKARDARPUB,  78. 
CHAKRATA,  D.B.,  257. 
CHALI8GAON,  71. 
CHAMAN,  236. 
CHAMBA,  D.B.,  199. 
CHAMPA,  77. 
CHAMPANIR,  109, 110. 
CHAM  UN  DI  HILL,  386. 
CHANDA,      D.B.,      line     to 
Warangal  in  progress,  74. 

CHANDAUSI  (R.),  239. 
CHANDERNAOORE,  51,  65. 

Two  Hotels  ill  Fort. 
OHANDIL,  78. 
CHANDNI,  84. 
CHANDOD,  109. 
CHANDPUR,  277. 
CHANDRAGIRI,  335,  362. 
CHANGAS  SERAI,  D.B.,  220. 
CHANROYAPATNA,  362. 
CHAPPA  RIFT,  235. 
CHATACK,  D.B.,  277. 
CHATRAPUR,  368. 
CHATTISGARH,  77. 
CHAVAKACHCHERI,    B.H. 

good,  458. 
CHAYA,  164. 

CHENKALEDI,  R.H.,  448. 
CHEPAL,  257. 
CHERAT,  D.B.,  213. 
CHERRA-PUNJI,  277. 

D.B.  coiumodioas,  with 
servants. 

Pony  Tonga  Service  (each 
seat,  30  rs.)  to  Shillong;  48 
hrs.  notice  to  manager  at 
Shillong.  (At  present  sus- 
pended.) 
CHICACOLE,  353. 
CHIDAMBARAM,  396. 

D.B.  1^  m.  from  rly.  sta. 
CHILAW,  R.H.  good,  454. 
CHILIAN W ALA,  209. 
CHILKA  LAKE,  353. 
CHINCHWAD,  324. 
CHINDWIN,  439. 
CHINGLBPUT  (R.)  D.B.good, 

392. 
CHINSURAH,  64. 
CHITOR,  82. 

D.B.  1  m.  from  rly.  sta., 
belonging  to  Oodeyi-ore 
State,  good. 

For  an  order  to  see  the 
fort,  and  for  the  use  of  an 
elephant,  a    week's  notice 
should    be    given    to  the 
Resident  at  Oodeypore. 
CHITTAGONG,  277. 
CHITTAPUR,  345. 
CHORAL,  80. 
CHOTA-NAGPUR,  78. 
Missions  :   Headquarten 
of   TrinUy    College  J>uU»  • 
Mission,  see  also  p.  78. 


INDEX  AND  DIRKCTOUY 


471 


CHOWMOOK,  221. 
CLIFTON,  238. 
COCANADA,  852. 
COCHIN,  369. 

Hotel :  Family  E. ;  D.B. 
fair. 
COIMBATORE,  D.B.,  387. 
COLOMBO,  441. 

Hotels:  Grand  Oriental 
H.  (usually  known  as  the 
G.O.H.),  one  of  the  best,  if 
not  the  best,  in  the  E. 

Galle  Face  H.,  quieter  and 
in  a  pleasanter  situation  than 
the  G.O.H.,  close  to  the  sea, 
a  little  more  tlian  1  m.  from 
the  landing-place.  There  is 
a  swimming  bath  attached 
to  the  hotel.  Bristol  Hotel, 
good.    H.  BrUttol. 

The  Grand  Hotel  at  Mount 
Lavinia,  2  hrs.  distant  by 
rail  from  Colombo,  is  much 
frequented  by  visitors.  It 
is  delightfully  situated  on 
a  promontory  overlooking 
the  sea. 

Clnirclies:  {Cathedral) 
—S.  Thomas,  Matwal ;  S. 
Peter's,  The  Fort;  Christ 
Church,  (C.M.S.);  Trinity 
Church,  Maranda ;  S. 
Michael's,  Polworth :  and 
others. 

(i2.  G.  Cathedral)- St. 
Lucia,  and  many  others. 

{Church  of  Scotlaad}— 
St.  Aiidrew's,  The  Fort. 

(NoycoyFORMiST)  —  Wes- 
leyan,  Pettah ;  Baptist, 
Cinnamon  Gardens.  Dutch 
Church,  Wolfendahl,  and 
others. 

Clubs  :  the  Colombo  C.  on 
the  Galle  Face. 

Golf  C.  with  links  on  the 
Galle  Face. 

Doctors:  J.  B.Spence;  A. 
D.  Murray;  J.  Rookivood. 

Engllsli  Mercliants, 
Booksellers,  Stationers, 
etc.  :  H.  IV.  Cave  and  Co. 
(also  agents  for  Henry  S. 
King  and  Co.,  London). 

General  Outfitters :  Car- 
giU. 

Ivories,  Tortoiseshell 
Jewellery,  Moon -stones, 
etc. :  D.  F.  de  Silva,  Chat- 
ham St. 

Missions  :  S.P.G.,  St. 
Thomas's  College  ;  C.M.S., 
Galle  Face;  Christ  Church  ; 
St.  Luke's  and  several 
schools. 

E.  GriTistead  Sisters  (Mis- 
sion House  at  Pol  watte) 
have  charge  of  schools  and 
Orphanage,  and  undertake 
Private  Nursing  in  any  part 
of  the  island. 


Steaivjdiip  Agencies : 

P.  &  0.  S.  N.  Co.,  office 
opposite  the.  G.O.H.  Agent, 
F.Bayley,.  Fortnightly  mail 
service  to  and  from  London, 
the  Continent,  and  Sydney, 
stopping  at  all  the  chief 
ports ;  fortnightly  service 
also  to  Bombay,  Calcutta, 
Straits  Settlements,  China, 
and  Japan. 

Orient  Litie.  Agent,  Whit- 
.  tall  and  Co.      Fortnightly 
mail   service   to  and   from 
London  and  Sydney,  stop- 
ping at  all  chief  ports. 

British  India  S.  N.  Co. 
Agents,  Alston,  Scott,  and 
Co.  Fortnightly  service  to 
and  from  London ;  weekly  to 
Calcutta,  Bombay,  and 
Madras. 

Cla n  Line.  Agents,  Aitken, 
Spence,  and  Co. 

A  nchor  Line.   A  gents,  Del  - 
mege,  Reid,  and  Co, 
COMILLA,  277. 
COMPANYGANJ,  277. 
OONJEVERAM,  392. 

No  D.B.  here,   but  good 
waiting  room  at  sta.     Con- 
jeveram  can  be  visited  from 
Chingleput  or  Aikonam. 
COONOOR  (R.),  388. 

Hotels:  Davidson's  H., 
Gray's  H.,  Hill  Grove  H.  (all 
good). 

For   tongas    see    Mettu- 
palaiyam. 
COORLA,  27. 
CORANADU,  397. 
CUDDALORE,  D.B.,  395. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B.LS.N.  Co.,  Parry  and  Co. 
CUDDAPAH  (R.),  D.B.,  334. 
CUMBUM  (R.),  358. 
OUTTAOK,  D.B.,  289,  353 
Club :   within    the    Fort 
enclosure. 


DABHEJI,  231. 
DABHOI,  108. 
DABO,  230. 
DABOK,  84. 
DACCA,  275. 

D.B.  near  Church. 
Club :  Dacca  C. 
DAKOR,  110. 
DALHOUSIE,  199. 

Hotels:  Strawberry  Bank 
H.  (best).  Old  Dalhousie  H., 
Bull's  Head  H. 

Between  Pathankot  and 
Dalhousie  it  is  most  con- 
venient to  sleep  at  the  D.B. 
Dunera.  ' 

DAL  LAKE,  218. 


DAMAN  ROAD,  105. 

D.B.     beyond    town,    at 
mouth  of  river,  good. 
DAMBADENIYA,  444. 
DAMBEGULLA,  R.H.,  461. 
DAMBOOL,    R.H.    excellent 

virtually  an  hotel,  455. 
DAM  DIM,  270 
DAMODAR  RIVER,  53. 
DAMOOKDEA,  270. 
DARJEELING,  271. 

Hotels:  Woodlands  H., 
good,  with  fine  views ; 
liockville  H.  (Mrs.  Monk) 
open  all  the  ye^r,  good ; 
Grand  H.  Drum  Di-uid 
(under  the  same  manage- 
ment as  Woodlands  H.),  the 
Mall ;  Darjeeling  H. 

Boarding  Houses:  Ada 
Villa,  Rose  Bank,  Gresham 
House. 

Club:  Darjeeling C,  Auck- 
land Road. 
DATAR  PEAK,  160. 
DATIA,  102. 
DAULATABAD,  68. 

Station   for   Ellora ;    see 
Ellora  in  index. 
DEBARI,  for  Oodeypur,  84. 
DEDUR,  R.H.,  221. 
DEDURA  OYA,  454. 
DEESA,  D.B.,  119. 
DEHRADUN,  D.B.,  256. 
Hotel :  Victoria  H. 
Club :  Dehra  Doon  C. 
Rly.    in     contemplation 
from  Hard  war. 

DELHI,  132. 

Hotels :  Maiden  H. ,  in  the 
Civil  Lines,  near  Ludlow 
Castle,  the  best ;  Laurie's 
H.,  outside  the  city ;  Civil 
and  Military  H.,  opposite 
Maiden's  and  next  the  Club  ; 
Northhrook  H.,  near  Mori 
Gate ;  Woodlands  H.,  by  St. 
James's  Church. 

Club  :  Delhi  Club  in  Lud- 
low Castle. 

Banks:  Bank  of  Bengal, 
Delhi  Bank,  Bank  of  Upper 
iTuHa,  and  others. 

Newspaper:  The  Morn- 
ing Post. 

Churches :  St.  James's,  St. 
Stephen's  (of  Cambridge 
Mission). 

Missions :  S.P.G.  and 
Cambridge  Mission;  Pres- 
byterian Misifion. 

Photographer :  Sultan 
Ahmad  Khan,  inside  Delhi 
Gate. 

Dealer  in  Indian  Curios : 
S.  J.  Telle  vy,  not  far  from 
the  Cashmere  Gate. 

Merchants:  Many  well- 


472 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


known  shops  in  the  Chandni 

Chauk    of    jewellers     and 

sellers  of  embroideries  and 

all    kinds    of    ornamented 

ware. 
DEOGAON,  D.B.,  65. 

A  good  place  to  break  tlie 

long  drive  from  Nandgaon 

to  Rozafor  the  Ellora  caves. 

The   tonga    service    is   not 

good. 
DEOLALI,  28. 
DERA  aSAZI  KHAN,  D.B., 

224. 
DERA  ISMAIL  KHAN,  D.B., 

213,  222. 
DEWAL,  D.B.,  good,  217. 
DHANASI,  238. 
DHAR,  SO. 

DHARAMSALA,  D.B.,  290. 
DH  ARM  PUR,  100. 

D.B.  good. 
DHARWAR  (R.),  D.B.,  317. 
DHOLA  (R.),  153. 
DHOLPUR  (R.),  92. 
DHOND  (R.),  D.B.,  330. 
DHONE,  D.B.,  358. 

Starting  point  for    Kur- 

nool,  33  m.  distant.    Carta, 

bullocks,  and  pony  transits 

procurable. 
DHORAJI,  164. 
DHUBRI,  D.B.,  274. 

Hotel:  DhiibHII. 
DIAMOND  HARBOUR,  53. 
DIBRUGARH,  D.B.,  274. 

Club :  Dibrugarh  C. 
DICKOYA,  446. 
DIG  or  DEEG,  185. 

The  Gopal  Bhawan  Palace 

is  put  at   the  disposal   of 

strangers  (permission  must 
-  be  asked  of  the  Resident, 

Bhurtpur).    In  it  a  paper  of 

rules  is  hung  up  for  their 

benefit. 
DIKSAL,  330. 
DIKWELLA,  R.H.  good,  451, 

453. 
DILWARRA  TEMPLES,  120. 
DIMBIJLA,  446. 
DINAPUR,  D.B.,  48. 

Kellner's    Refreshment 

and  Retiring  Rooms. 
DINDIGAL  (R.),  404. 
DIRGI,  235. 
DOM,  293. 

DOMEL,  D.B.,  good,  217. 
DONDRA,  452.   . 
DONEIRA,    D.B.,    for     Dal- 

housie,  q.v.,  199. 
DONGAR  GAN,  D.B.,  330. 
DONGARGARH  (R.),  76. 


DORNA  KAL,  352. 
!  DRAS,  219. 
j  DUBCHI,  220. 
I  DUDH  SAUGAR,  301. 
I  DULAI,  D.B.,  good,  217. 

DUM  DUM.  D.B.,  62. 

DUMMOW,  89. 

DUMPEP,  D.B.,  277. 

DWARJvA,  164. 


E. 

EASTERN    NARA   CANAL, 
225. 

EISHMAKAM,  219. 

EKIRIYANKDMBARA,  448. 

EKXELIGODA,  449. 

ELAHERA,  455. 

ELEPHANT  PASS,  R.H.  in 
Old  Dutch  Fort,  458. 

ELEPHANTA  CAVES,  18. 

ELLORA  CAVES,  71. 

The  caves  are  now  most 
easily  reached  from  Daulata- 
bad  sta.  (Trains  from  Mun- 
mar  junc.  twice  daily.) 
Write  beforehand  to  Nus- 
serwanji,  Aurangabad,  ask- 
ing him  to  send  a  tonga 
(15  rs.)  to  meet  train. 

Daulatabad  sta.  (no  Re- 
freshment Room)  is  10  m. 
from  Ellora.  State  R.Hs. 
at  Ellora,  but  permission  to 
occupy  them  must  be  ob- 
tained through  Resident, 
Hyderabad. 

ELLORE  (R.),  352 

ELPHINSTONE  POINT,  314. 

ENGLISH  BAZAR,  starting- 
place  for  Gaur,  267. 

Accommodation  :  The 
magistrate's  permission 
should  be  obtained  before- 
hand to  occupy  the  Maldah 
Circuit-house,  which  is  a 
comfortable  building,  being 
furnished  and  provided  with 
bedding,  linen,  crockery, 
cooking-utensils,  and  all  re- 
quisites, in  charge  of  a  resi- 
dent servant.  At  least  one 
servant  who  could  cook  and 
take  charge  of  baggage 
should  be  sent  on  before 
with  the  coolies  or  covered 
cart  containing  the  baggage. 
Horses  and  carriages  cannot 
be  hired.  The  traveller 
must  bring  his  provisions 
with  him. 

ERAOOR,  R.H.,  448. 

ERODE  Junc.  (for  Trichino- 
poly),  (R.),  387. 

Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation at  the  rly.  sta. 


ETAMPITIYA,    RH.    com- 
fortable, 447. 
ETAWAH  (R.X  260. 

D.B.  ^  m.  from  rly.  sta. 
EVEREST,  MOUNT,  271. 


FALSE  POINT,  277,  290. 

Steamship         Agents : 
B. I.S.N.  Co.,  C.  M.  Binny. 
FARDAPUR,  D3.,  in  a  ruin- 
ous condition,  31. 
FATEHABAD  (R.),  81. 
FATEHPUR-SKRI,  177. 

D.B.   in   the  old  Record 
Office  (see  planX 
FAZILKA,  166. 
FEGU,  D.B.,  257. 
FENCHUGANJ,  276. 
FEROZEPUR  (R.),  166, 196. 

D.B.  near  Dep.  Commis- 
sioner's Cutcherry. 
FEROZESHAH,  166,  196. 
FORT  ST.  DAVID,  396. 
FRENCH  ROCKS,  380. 
FULLERS  CAMP,  235.  ! 

FULTA,  53. 

FUTTEHPORE,  D.B.,  256.      | 
FYZABAD  (R.),  248. 

D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 

Graham's  H.  i 

Jjodhya,  the  Jerusalem  of  ] 
Hinduism,  is  4  m.  distant 


GADAG  (B.),  315,  353. 
D.B.  I  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

GADARWARA,  R.H.,  35. 

GADR  ARRAN,  215. 

GAGANGAIR,  219. 

GALGE,  462. 

GALLE,  452. 

Hotel  :  Peninsular  i 
Oriental  H.,  fairly  comfort- 
able. 

Steamship  Agencies: 
Clan  Line,  Clark,  Spenceand 
Co. ;  British  Iruiia  S.N.  Co., 
and  Anchor  Line,  Delmegv, 
Reid  and  Co. 

GALTA,  128. 

GAMBBR,  221. 

GAMPOLA,  445. 
HoteL 

GANDERBAL,  219. 

GANJAM,  353 

GARHI,  D.B.,  good,  217. 

GARHI  HABIBULLA,  D.B., 
221. 

GARPOS,  77. 

GAUHATI,  D.B,,  274. 

Daily  Pony  Tonga  Servici 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


473 


fc  6  A.M.  or  not  later  than  9 
[. ,  to  Shillong.  Rates  for 
h    seat  25  rs.,   15  seers 

P  luggage  free.     Ordinary 

ft  1  lock    train    service    to 
illong,      daily.        Write 
Manager,    Gaiihati    and 
illong    Transit     Service, 

iuhati. 

ETB,  267. 
e  English  Bazar.) 

&A,  D.B.,  49. 
BRSOPPA,  D.B.,  26,  364. 
HARO,  232. 
BAZIABAD,  193,  257. 

Waiting  and  Refresh- 
ment Rooms  at  rly.  sta. 
with  sleeping  accommoda- 
tion. 

BAZI  GHAT,  222,  224. 
IDU  BANDAR,  228. 
ILCHT,  220.  ; 
ILIMALE,  449. 

Good  accommodation  and 
water. 

INQI  FORT,  393. 
IR,  156. 
IRIDIH,  50. 
IRITELLA  LAKE,  459. 
IRNAB,  157. 
OA,  302. 

Hotels:  Gomes' H., Crescent 
H. 

Steamship «  Agents : 
B. I.S.N.  Co.,  L.  S.  Ribeiro. 

[OALPARA,  D.B.,  274. 

K)AL,UNDO  GHAT,  275. 
Steamers   ((comfortable), 

daily  mail  service  to  Narain- 

ganj. 

lODAVERY,  352. 
lODHRA,  110. 
lOGA  GATE,  108. 
JOKAK  ROAD  (R.),  299. 
lOKUL,  184. 
lOLAGHAT,  274. 
H>LKONDA,  349. 

JON  DAL,  164. 

There  are  a  good  Guest 
House  and  D.B.,  both  com- 
fortably furnished. 

500ND,  219. 

JOONDA,  249. 

SOOTY  (R.),  334. 

30PALPUR,  353. 

JOREGAON,  25. 

Sta.  for  Jogeshwar  Caves. 

K)VARDHAN,  185. 


GUJRANWALA   (R.),    D.B., 
207. 
D.B.  close  to  sta.,  poor. 

GUJRAT,  D.B..  209. 

GULISTAN,  236. 

GULBAARG,  219. 

Hotel :  Nedou's  is  the  only 
H. ,  good. .  Visitors,  as  a  rule, 
take  up  their  quarters  in 
wooden  huts  procurable  at 
a  small  rent  from  the  State, 
or  in  tents. 

GUMLIH,  164. 

GUNTAKAL  (R.),  334. 

GUNTUR,  358. 

GUZERAT,  Province  of,  109. 
Do.       Capital  of  (Ahnied- 
abad).  111. 

GWALIOR  (R.),  92. 

D.B.  very  poor,  at  rly.  sta. 

The  Musafir  Khana,  i  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.,  is  a  hand- 
some, well -furnished  house 
built  for  the  friends  of  the 
^fahara^jah,  and  persons  of 
distinction  recommended  by 
the  Resident.  It  is  neces- 
sary for  such  persons  to 
write  beforehand  to  the 
"Officer  in  charge"  to 
obtain  permission  to  occupy 
rooms  there,  and  also  to  in- 
sure acconnnodation,  as  it  is 
frequently  full. 

Gaol  Carpets,  etc.  made 
to  order,  reasonable  price, 
good  work. 


H. 

HABARANE,  R.H.,  459. 

HAKGALLA,  447. 

HALDAMULLA,  450. 

R.H  indifferent,  but  good 
club,  to  which  access  is  easy. 

HAMBANTOTTA,  R.H.,  453. 

HAMMONCONDAH,  352. 

HAMPI  (Vijayanagar),  353. 

(The  Rly.  Sta.  for  Hampi 
is  Hospet.) 

D.B.  at  Kamalapur.  The 
fee  for  its  use  is  1  r.  per 
diem  (1  r.  '8  for  a  married 
couple),  and  the  visitor  must 
make  his  own  arrangements 
about  food.  Mosquito  cur- 
tains should  be  brought. 
There  is  a  Peon  in  charge  of 
the  rooms,  who  will  act  as 
guide  for  a  small  fee. 

HANSI,  D.B.,  165. 


HANWELLA,  R.H.  good,  449, 
HAPUTALE,  R.H.,  446,  450. 
HARAPA,  222. 

HARDA,  34. 

D.B.  3  minutes'  walk  from 
rly.  sta.,  good. 
HARDOI  (R.),  239. 

D.B.  close  to  sta. 

HARDWAR,'D.B.  good,  238, 
254. 
Rly.  to  Dehra  Doon. 

HARIHAR  (R.),  360. 

HARIPUR,  D.B.,  123,  221. 

HARNAI,  D.B.,  235. 

Bullock  Dhumni  or  Tonga 
available. 
HARWAN,  217. 
HASAN  ABDAL,  D.B.,  212. 
HATHRAS  (R.),  D.B.,  259. 
HATTI,  217. 

HATTON,  446. 

Adam's  Peak  Hotel. 
HENARATGODA,  443. 
HENZADA,  438. 

HERAMITIPANA,  450. 

Lodgings  to    be    had  at 
large  Pilgrim  Bungalow. 

HIKKADUWA,  R.H,  452. 
HINGANGHAT,  D.B.,  74. 
HINGOLI,  74. 
HIRPUR,  R.H,  220. 
HISSAR  (R.),  D.B.,  166. 
HONAWAR,  364. 

HOOGHLY,  51,  63. 

Hotel :  Chinsurah  H. 

HOOKEYTOLLAH,  D.B.,  277 

HORANA,  R.H,  451. 

HOROWAPOTANE,       R.H., 

455. 
HORTON  PLAINS,  446,  450. 
HOSHANGABAD,  D.B.,  86. 

HOSPET  (R.),  D.B. ,  353. 
Rly.  Sta.  for  Hampi. 

HOTGI  (R.),  304,  332. 
HOWRAH  (see  also  Calcutta), 

63. 
HUB    RIVER,   225.     Murad 

Khan's  Bungdlov},  11  miles 

past  Magar  Pir  (provisions 

must  be  taken). 
HUB  LI  (R.),  317,  360. 
HULI,  301. 

HULIKAL  FORT,  389. 
HULLABID,  361. 
HUMMA,  353. 


474 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


HYDERABAD     (Cashmere), 
D.B.,  221. 

HTDERABAD  (Deccan),  (R.), 
345. 

Hotel :  Cosmopolitan  H. 
(1896).     See  Secunderabad. 

Bank  of  Bengal. 
HYDERABAD  (Sind),  228. 

D.B.  good  iu  Cantonment 
close  to  the  Tennis  Court 
and  Swimming  Bath. 

Missions :  C.M.S.,  Church 
and  Schools. 


I. 

lOATPURI  (B.),  28. 
D.B.  i  m.  from  sta. 

Olmrcll  (Anglican). 

RaUway  Institute. 
INDORE  (R.),  D.B.,  80. 
INDRA-BETTA  HILL,  362. 
IRAMPAIKKULUM,     B.H., 

458. 
IRANAMADU,    R.H.,  good, 

458. 
IRRAKAMAM,  462. 
'ISAPDR  HILL-PORT,  323. 
ISLAMABAD,  D.B.,  219. 
ITARSI,  84,  86. 

D.B.,   (R.),   and    waiting 

rooms  at  rly.  sta. 


JABALPUR  (R.),  35. 

Hotel :  Jackson's  H.  good. 
This  is  the  station  for  the 
Marble  Rocks  (p.  35). 

JAGOBABAD,  234. 

D.B.  at  Wan  Radharam, 
\  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

JAELA,  R.H.,  454. 

JAFFNA  (Jaffnapatam),  459. 

JAGANNATH  (see  Puri). 

JAIPUR  (see  Jeypore). 

JAITPUR,  102. 

Dharmsala  comfortable. 

JAJPUR,  290. 

JAKO  HILL,  191. 

JALAMB,  74. 

JALARPET  June,  (for  Banga- 
lore), (R.),  376. 

JALPAIGURI  (R.),  D.B.,  270. 

JAMALPORE,  269. 

Kellner's  Refreshment 
and  Retiring  Rooms  at  sta. 

JAMGAL,  362. 

JAMRUD,  214. 

JARAPANI,  256. 

JATRAPUR,  273. 

JAUNPUR  (R.),  250. 

D.B.  close  to  Police  Lines. 


JBLAPAHAR,  271. 
JETALSAR  (R.),  165,  164. 
JEYPORE  (R.),  127. 

Hotel:  Rust&m Family H. 
good ;  Kaiser -i-Hind  H., 
also  good.  The  proprietors 
of  either  of  the  hotels  will, 
if  necessary,  make  arrange- 
ments for  elephants  for 
visitors  (if  they  are  to  be 
obtained),  or  for  tongas, 
bullock  ekkas,  or  ponies, 
for  the  excursion  to  Amber. 
Dealer  in  Silks,  Indian 
Curiosities,  etc. ;  Zurester 
and  Co. ,  good  showrooms. 

School  of  Art,  also  good 
display,  work  to  order. 
Scottisli  Mission. 
JHANSI  (B.),  90,  102. 

Hotels :  New  JUiUway  H.  ; 
Midland  RaUway  H.    D.B. 
good.    Accommodation  also 
in  Rani  of  Jhansi's  Palace. 
Write  beforehand  to  Dep. 
Comm. 
Club :  Maun  Club. 
JHARSUGUDA,  77. 
JHELUM  (R.),  209,  216. 
D.B.  in  cantonment. 
JODHPUB,  D.B.  121. 
JOGESHWAR  CAVE,  25. 
JULLUNDER,  196. 

Hotel :  Cheltenham  H.,  on 
the  Mall  opposite  the  church 
in  Cantonment  -  suburb. 
D.B.  5  minutes'  drive  from 
rly.  sta. 
JUMMOO,  208,  221. 
State  D.B. 

Travellers  fortunate 
enough  to  be  redommended 
by  the  Resident  may  be  ac- 
commodated at  the  State 
R.H. 
JUNAGADH,  155. 

Accommodation  and  con- 
veyances on  application  to 
the  Prime  Minister  of  Katty- 
•  war.  There  is  a  fine  Guest 
House  for  natives  and 
officials  of  rank.  D.B.  close 
to  rly.  sta.  Two  good 
Serais  outside  the  Majevdi 
and  Verawal  Gates  respec- 
tively. 
JUNG8HAHI  (R.),  230. 
Rooms  at  the  rly.  sta. 
Camels  or  carriages  for 
Tatta  should  be  ordered 
beforehand.  Communicate 
with  the  station  -  master. 
For  visiting  Tatta  the  best 
plan  for  the  traveller  is  to 
hire  a  carriage  at  Jungshahi 
and  drive  (5  rs.)  2  hrs.  to 
Tatta,  taking  Innch  with 
him. 
JUTOGH,  190,  191. 


KADAM,  215. 

KADAROLI,  301. 

KADI,  119. 

KADUGANNAWA,  444. 

KADUWBLLA,  R.H,  449. 

KAHOOTA,  221. 

KAIBA,  111. 

KAITY,  390. 

KALA  KE  8ARAI,  D.B.,  211 

KALA  OYA,  B.H.,  455. 

KALGHAT,  61. 

KALKA,  190. 

Hotels :  Loiorie's  K.f'aeA 
door  to  P.  O.  and  T.  a 
(open  throughout  tiie  yaujl 
Tonga  OHice  at  P.  0.  {m 
Simla).  Passengers  ca. 
book  to  intermediate  sta- 
tions between  Kalka  and 
Simla  by  ordinary  con- 
veyances, but  the  full  fiire, 
8  rs.  per  seat,  will  \t 
charged.  Notices  to  Pai- 
sengers  by  Tonga  (see  Sinn). 

KALPI,  D.B.,  53,  91. 

KALUNGA,  78. 

KALUTARA,  E.H.  excellent, 
451. 

KALWAWEWA,  456. 

Travellers  will    find  ac- 
commodation at  the  Govt 
Bungalow  on  the  Buod. 
KALYAN,  27. 

B.  and  Waiting  Boom 
Bullock-carts  for  hire. 
KALYAN  KOT,  231. 
KAMALAPUR,  354. 

D.B.    See  Hampi. 
KAMPTI,  D.B.,  76. 
KANAKARAYANKULAM 

R.H.,  458. 
KANBAL,  D.B.,  219,  220. 
EANDT,  444. 

Hotels:  Grand  H.,  excel- 
lent ;  Queen's  H.j  fair.  f1(w- 
ewce  VillcLs  H.,  small,  bat 
comfortable. 
Club:  on  8.  W.  sideofLake. 
Drapers,  etc.:  B.  Ckaritr 
and  Co. ;  CargiZl  and  Co. ; 
Steen  and  Co. 

Missions  :    C.M.S.  sta., 
Trincomalee     St.  ;     Christ 
Church  ;    Ti'inity    Chmch, 
College,  and  Schools. 
KANGAN,  219. 
KANGRA  VALLEY,  199. 
KANHABI,  23,  27. 
KANIPANI,  257. 
KANITIVA,  R.H.   448. 
KANKARIYA  LAKE,  !!&  j 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


476 


LAJ?^KHAL,  254. 
lANTALAI,  E.H.,  460. 
lAPADVANJ,     D.B.     good, 
110. 

^RAOHI  (R.),  D.B.,  close  to 
arsenal,  232. 

Hotels:  Paul's  H.  (good) 
close  to  Frere  St.  sta.  The 
Uevon  Villa  H.  (good). 

Band :  Native  regimen- 
tal, plays  in  Government 
Gardens  on  Wednesday 
evenings  between  6  and  8  ; 
at  Gynikliana  every  Monday 
evening. 

Banks :  National  Bank  of 
India;  Bank  of  Bombay  ; 
Agra  Bank — all  within  easy 
walk  of  the  city  rly.  sta. 

Bazaar:  Sudar  Bazaar, 
gof>d. 

Club :  SiTid  Club,  adjoining 
the  Frere  Hall  Compound. 
A  handsome  building  con- 
taining considerable  sleep- 
ing accommodation.  Meni- 
l)ers  can  introduce  friends 
as  honorary  members  for 
three  days. 

Gymkhana  and  Ladies'  Club 
witiiin  Ave  minutes'  walk 
from  Sind  Club.  It  has  six 
lawn  tennis  conrts,  two 
•covered  badminton  courts, 
bal  1  room  and  library.  Band 
generally  plays  every  Mon- 
day evening. 

Golf  Club. 

Mission  Sta. :  C.M.s. 

Steamship      Agencies : 

P.  &  0.  S.  N.  Co.,  M'lver, 
M^Kemie  and  Co. 

British  India  S.  N.  Co., 
Weekly  S.S.  meet  in-coming 
ami  out -going  P.  <fe  O, 
steamers  from  Europe  at 
Bombay,  M'Jver,  APKemie 
<iiid  Co.  Weekly  to  Persian 
Gulf,  bi-weekly  to  Bombay. 

Messageries  Maritimes. 
Monthly  to  and  from  Mar- 
seilles. 

Clan  Line,  Finlay,  Muir 
und  Co. 

Hall  Line,  Sir  Charles 
Forbes  and  Co. 

[Vilson  Line,  Finlay,  Muir, 
and  Co.  To  Bombay, 
Middlesboro',  or  Hull  every 
fortnight. 

Andior  Line,  D.  Graham 
and  Co. 

For  goods:  Hansa  Line; 
Wilson  (Hull)  Line. 

Forwarding  Agents : 
Latham  and  Co. ;  Rogers 
and  Co. 

Stores:  Army  and  Navy 
(branch  of  London  establish- 
ment). Bandar  Road. 


KARIMGANJ,  277. 

KARJAT,  319. 

KARLI,  820. 

The  best  "way  to  visit  the 
Oaves  is  to  alight  at  Lon- 
auli  (G.I.P.  Rly.),  and  drive 
to  and  from  Karli. 

KARMIGURIAMM  AN 
KOVIL,  410. 

KARUR,  887. 

KARWAR,  D.B.,  303. 

KARWI,  108. 

KASARA  (R.),  2S. 

KASAULl,  100. 

Hotel :  Norton's  H. 

KASIM  BAZAR,  266. 

KATAS,  209. 

KATE  RAG  AM,  462. 

KATHA,  430. 

KATHGODAM  (R.),  238,  246, 
253. 
Hotel :  Railway  H. 
Tongas,  -ponies,  dandies, 
bearers,  and  porters,  await 
the  trains.  Tongas  should 
be  secured  beforehand  by 
letter  or  telegram  to  station- 
mastei'.  Ekkos  at  moderate 
rate  are  available  for  native 
servants.  From  Kathgodam 
to  Naini-Tai  Brewery  by 
tonga  daily,  lare  3  rs.  8  as. 

KATJURI,  288. 

KATNI,  36,  77. 

KATPADl  (R.),  374. 

KATTYWAR  PROVINCE,152 

KAUNIA,  D.B.,  273. 

KEGALLA,  R.H.  poor,  444. 

KEKERAWA,     R.H.      small 
but  good,  456. 

KELANI,  443. 

KEM,  331. 

KERI-GHAT,  D.B.,  191. 

KHADAKWASLA       LAKE, 
329. 

KHAIBER  PASS,  214. 

KHAIRAIJAD  (R.),  213. 

KHAJURAHU,  103. 

KHAMGAON,  74. 

KHANA,  51,  264. 

KHANDAGIRI  OAVES,  286. 

KH  AND  AH  AM  A,  219. 

KHANDALA,  320. 

D.B.  on  edge  of  the  ravine. 
Hotel ;  Glendale  H.  (good). 

KHANDWA,  34,  80.  • 

R.  and  Waiting  Rooms. 
Convevances  procurable. 
D.B. 

KHARAGHODA,  152. 

KHELAT,  237, 

KHERALU,  118. 

KHULDABAD.  Seeito^a. 


KHUNDILANI,  237. 

KHURDA  ROAD,  353. 

KHWAJAH  KHIZB 

ISLAND,  225. 

KHYRNA,  254. 

KIAMARI,  233. 

KILL  A  ABDULLA  (R.),  286, 

KINCHINJA^^GA    MOUNT, 
272. 

KIND  AT,  439. 

KIRI  ELA,  451. 

KIRINDE,  R.H.,  454. 
;  KIRKEE,  324. 
I         H.  de  Paris, 
I  KIROALI,  167. 

KISHAN,  237. 

KITTUR,  318. 

KOCHALI,  235. 

KODAIKANAL,  404. 

KODKANI.    Two  D.Bs.,  3G4. 

KOFWARA,  217. 

K(;HALA,  D.B.,  good,  217. 

KOHAT,  D.B.,  215. 

KOHIMA,  274. 

KOIL,  259. 

KOJAK  PASS,  286. 

KOLACHEL,  371. 

D.B.  on  S.  side  of  road  to 
harbour. 

KOLANGAM,  217. 

KOLAR,  388. 

KOLAR  GOLD  FIELDS,  876. 
A 'short  branch  railway 
runs  from  Bowringpet  to 
the  Gold-fields,  where  there 
is  a  good  D.B.  in  the  Mysore 
Company's  Camp. 

KOLHAPIJR,  297. 

D.B.  at  S.  end  of  Can- 
tonment. 

KOMANI,  R.H.,  462. 

KONARAK,  282. 

KONDAPALLI,  852. 

KORBA,  77. 

KOTA,  77. 

KOTAGIRI,  388. 

Hotel :  Spencer's  H.  (good). 

KOTAL  DARWAZA,  237 

KOTDWARA,  238. 

KOTGARH,  D.B.,  192. 

KOT-KAPURA  (R.),  166. 

KOTLI,  221. 

KOTRI  (R.),  228. 

D.B.  (provisions  must  be 
taken),  not  far  from  Bander 
rly.  sta. 

KOTTA,  448. 

KOUMARKELA,  78. 

KRISHNA,  333. 

KUCIILAK,  236. 

KULBARGA,  D.B.,  832. 

KULLU  VALLEY,  192. 


476 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


KX7MBHAK0NAM(R.),  D.B., 

397. 
KUMBURUWELLA,     R.H., 

448. 

KUNHUR,  71. 

KUPURTIIALLA,  196. 

KURIGRAM,  273. 

KUBNAL,  i8f*. 
D.B. 

KURNOOL  (Madras),  35S. 
D.B.     See  Dhon^. 

KURNOOL  ROAD  STA.,  358. 
See  Uhone. 

KURSEONG  (R.),  D.B.,  271. 
Eotel:  Clarendon H.  (goocl) 
pleasant  place  for  breaking 
Journey.  Some  people  prefer 
this  place  to  Darjeeling. 

KURUNEGALA,  R.H.,  443. 

KUTALLAM,  408. 

KUTB  {Delhi),  147. 

Small  D.B.  close  to  the 
great  mosque. 

Police  Rest  House  in 
the  tomb  of  Ailhani  Khati. 
Comfortable  quarters.  Ap- 
plication must  be  made 
beforehand  to  the  Deputy 
Commissioner,  Delhi,  for 
permission  to  stop  there. 

KYANHNYAT,  430. 

KYAUKMYAUNG,  430. 

KYAUKPYU,  438. 

KYAUKSE,  426. 


LAB  AN  I,  210. 
LAHORE  (R.),  199. 

Hotels:  Nedou's  H.,  Char- 
ing Cross  H.,  these  two  are 
the  best. 

Boarding  Houses:  Hil- 
lier's,  Caversham. 

Glul) :  Panjab  Club,  T>a- 
hore  and  Mianmir  Institute. 
Missions  :  C.M.S.  St. 
John's  Divinity  School ; 
Zenana  Mission,  and  Trinity 
Church.  American  Presby- 
terian :  Forman  College  and 
Church. 

Banks :  Bank  of  Bengal  ; 
Panjab  Banking  Co. 

Newspaper :  Civil  and 
Military  Gazette. 

Ghurclies  :       Cathedral  ; 
Raihvay  Church. 
LAHUGALAWEWA,  462. 
LAKI  (R.),  227. 

No  D.B.  but  good  rooms 
at  the  rly.  sta. 
LAKKUNDI,  316. 
LAKWAR,  D.B.,  257. 
T    LALA  MUSA  (R.),  209,  224. 
,    LALITPUR,  D.B.,  89. 
1    LALPOOR,  217. 


LANDOUR,  257. 

Hotel:  Oriental  H. 

LANSDOWNE,  288. 

LARKANA,  D.B.,  226. 

LASALGAON,  31. 

LASCAPANA,  446. 

LASHKAR,  96. 

LASSENDRA,  110. 

LEH,  219,  220. 

LEMASTOITA,  450. 

LENA  CAVES,  29. 

LHAKSAR,  238,  254. 

LIBONG,  272. 

LIMBDI,  153. 

LIMKHEDA,  110. 

LINGAMPALLI,  345. 

LODWICK  POINT,  294. 

LOGARH  UILL-FOIIT,  323. 

LOLAB  VALLEY,  218. 

LONAULI  (R.),  320. 

Gymkhana  Hotel  {  m. 
from  rly.  sta. 

Starting-place  for  drive  to 
the  Caves  at  Karli. 

LONDA  (R.),  301. 

LORALAI,  235. 

LUCKEESBRAI,  50.  270. 

LUCKNOW  (R.),  239. 

Hotels :  Wutzler's  H.  (one 
of  the  best  in  India) ;  Bill's 
ImiieHal  H.,  Abbott  Road  ; 
Civil  and  Military  H. ;  Royal 
H.;  Prinx^e  of  Wales's  H. 

Clubs :  United  Service,  in 
the  Chatar  Manzil  Palace; 
Mohammed  Bagh  C,  Canton- 
ments. 

Missions:  C.M.S.  sta.  (at 
Zahur  Bakhsh),  Church  of 
Epiphany  and  Schools ; 
Methodist  Episcopal  of  U.S.A. 
The  Museum  (Ajaib  Ghar) 
is  closed  at  3.30  and  ou 
Fridays.^ 

Rly.  I^ne  to  Jaunpur  in 
progress. 

LUDHIANA,  196. 
D.B.  at  rly.  sta. 

LUNDI  KOTAL,  214. 

LUNI,  121. 

LUNUGALA,  R.H.,  448. 

M. 
MADDAWACHCHIYA,  R.H., 

458. 

MADDUR  (R.),  378. 

Visitors  to  Cauvery  Falls 
can  alight  at  theSonanhalli 
Platform,  on  previous  notice 
to  station-master  there. 

MADHAVAPUR,  164. 

MADHUBAND,  50. 

MADHUPUR  (R.),  D.B.,  50. 


MADRAS,  336. 

Hotels :  H.  Connopani. 
best ;  Buckingham  B.^  boU  i 
in  good  positions  closfl  to 
Mount  Road  ;  Cupper  Ho^M 
H. ,  on  the  Beach,  about  4 m. 
S.  of  the  pier,  and  3  m.  frtffli 
rly.  sta.  ;  Dent's  Gardens  fl., 
Elphinstone  H. ,  fiirminghwm 
//.,  Salisbury  H.,  Fictoria 
H.y  Castle  //.,  and  BranA 
Elphinstone  H.^aM  ineentnl 
position,  on  or  near  Mount 
Road,  not  far  from  the 
Madras  Club,  and  about  2 
m.  from  the  pier,  and  I 
m.  from  rly.  sta.  There 
are  also  several  hotels  in 
Black  Towx  near  the  har- 
bour, but  they  arc  not  re- 
commended. 

Agents:  Arbvthnot  and 
Co.  (agents  for  Henry  S.  King 
and  Co.,  65  ComhillX  and 
Bifiny  and  Co.  (agents  for 
Grindlay  and  Co.,  Parlia- 
ment St.),  both  undertakeall 
business  in  connection  with 
travelling,  banking,  and 
financial  arrangements  for 
travellers  in  India. 

Banks:  Bank  of  Madras, 
Popham's  Broadway ;  Char- 
tered Bank,  Elsplanade ; 
Mercantile  Bank  of  India, 
London^  and  China,  First 
Line,  Beach  ;  Commercial 
Bank  of  India,  Ltd.,  Ar- 
menian St. ;  National  Bank 
of  India,  Ltd.,  Armenian 
St. 

Booksellers :  Aiidison  and 
Co.,  Higginbotham  and  Co., 
Combridge  and  Co.,  Vest  and 
Co.,  all  in  Mount  Road; 
Kaiyanaram  Iyer,  Black 
Town. 

Chemists  :  W.  E.  5wtU 
a7id  Co.,  Mount  Road  and 
Esplanade ;  and  Maclure 
and  Co.,  Mount  Road. 

Cliurclies,  see  pp.  340-43. 

Clubs:  The  Madras  C. 
Central  situation  at  1  ro. 
from  the  rly.  sta.  on  Mount 
Road.  A  considerable  num- 
ber of  residential  chambers. 

The  Madras  Cosmopolitan 
Club  also  on  Mount  Road. 
It  is  a  mixed  club  of  Euro- 
peans and  native  gentlemen. 

The  Adyar  Club  admits 
ladies  as  well  as  gentlemen ; 
it  is  3  m.  S.  of  Madras  Club, 
and  in  its  grounds  the  J/o- 
dras  Boat  Cluh  has  its  sheds. 

Restaurant  and  Gonfeo- 
tioner:  D'Angelis,  Mount 
Road.    (Excellent  cooking.) 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


477 


ConveyanceB :  The  dis- 
tances in  Madras  are  very 
considerable.  It  is  neces- 
sary for  travellers  who  wish 
to  see  the  sights  in  a  short 
time  to  engage  a  carriage. 
Hire,  a  day,  1  horse,  3  rs., 
5  horses,  7  rs.  There  is  no 
Bcale  of  fares  for  distance ;  no 
fare  less  than  that  for  ^  day. 

The  principal  livery  stable 
keepers  are  the  Madras 
Stable  Co.,  who  hire  out 
"broughams  with  1  horse  for 
S  rs.  a  day,  which  is  raised 
in  the  season  to  4  rs,  and 
sometimes  5  rs.  The  hack 
<;arriages  to  be  hired  in  the 
streets  are  cheaper,  but  are 
generally  badly  horsed  and 
far  from  clean. 

Dentists:  E.  W.  Bad- 
cock,  Egmore;  E.  Egbert, 
Mount  Road. 

Jewellers  :  P.  Orr  and 
Sons,  Mount  Road  ;  Framjee 
Pestonjee  Bhumgara,  Mount 
Road ";  RanganadJia  Tawker, 
Mount  Road, 

Medical  Men :  Dr.  Stur- 
^mer.  Pantheon  Road ;  Dr. 
Crawford,  Nungumbankum ; 
Dr.  Pope,  Eye  Hospital ;  Dr. 
Browne  and  Dr.  Maitland, 
General  Hospl. 

Missions :  The  S.P.G. 
{Mission  House  in  Rundall's 
Bd.,  Vepery),  serve  the  fol- 
lowing churches  : —  St. 
Thome,  St.  Paul's,  Vepery, 
and  St.  John's,  Egmore, 
and  have  charge  of  a  Theo- 
logical College  in  Sullivan's 
■Gardens  ;  also  of  schools 
and  orphanages-.  C.  M.  S.  sta. 
(at  Egmore),  Holy  Trinity 
Church;  Divinity  School, 
and  Harris  High  School. 

There  are  also  other  Mis- 
sions :  U.F.  Church  of  Scot- 
land, Lutheran,  Wesleyan, 
.  and  Methodist- Episcopal. 

Newspapers:  Dly.  Papers, 
The  Madras  Mail,  The  Ma- 
dras Times,  The  Hindu, 
Tlie  Madras  Standard. 

Opticians:  P.  Orr  and 
Sons,  and  Lawrence  &  Mayo, 
both  in  Mount  Road. 

Photographers  :  Nicho- 
las and  Co.,  Del  Tufo,  and 
Wiele  and  Klein,  all  in 
Mount  Road. 

Steamship       Agencies : 

B.LS.N.  Co.,  —  Binny  and 
Co.  Steamers  during  pass- 
enger   season    every    fort- 


night to  Calcutta  and  to 
Colombo,  Aden,  Ismailia, 
Port  Said,  Marseilles,  Gib- 
raltar, Plymouth,  and  Lon- 
don, etc. 

P.  &  0.  S.  N.  Co.,--Arhuth- 
not  and  Co. 

Messageries  Maritimes, — 
R.  CaiUL 

Clan  Line, —Gordon,  Wood- 
roffe  and  Co. 

A  nchor  Line,— Best  and  Co. 

Tailors  and  HaWt- 
makers :  Smith  and  Andre, 
Moses  and  Co. ,  Oakes  and  Co., 
all  in  Mount  Road. 

Wine  Merchants :  Spencer 
and  Co.,  Mount  Road  and 
Esplanade;  Oakes  and  Co., 
Mount  Road,  and  Popham's, 
Broadway. 

MADURA,  (R.),  405. 
D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 
Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation at  the  rly.  sta. 

MAGALHAT,  273. 

MAGAR  FIR,  233. 

MAGWE,  434. 

MAHAOYA,  R.H.,448. 

MAHABALESHWAR,      292, 
293. 

Hotels:  Race -View  H., 
Fountain  H. ,  both  good,  fine 
views.  Makdbaleshwar  H., 
Ripon  H. 

Olul)  with  bedrooms  at- 
tached. 

Mail  Contractor,  Ard- 
eshir  Framjee,  Civil  Lines, 
Poona. 

MAHABALXPUR,  D.B.,  408. 

MAHABAN,  184. 

MAHAKUT,  815. 

MAHARA,  442. 

MAHASU,  192. 

MAHE,  367. 

MAHIM,  104. 

Scottish        Orphanage, 

established  1859,  the  only 
institution  of  its  kind  in  the 
Bombay  Presidency. 

MAHMUD  KOT  (R.),  224. 
MAHOBA,  D.B.,  103 
MAHUU,  296. 
MAILARGAR,  317. 
MAIN  DROIT,  257. 

MAKKALLI  HILLS,  231. 
D.B.  (necessary  to  bring 
food)  li  m.  from  Tatta ;  the 
building  was    originally   a 
mosque. 

MALCOLM  PETH,  293. 
MALDAH,  267. 


MALVALLI,  D.B.  good,  378. 
MALWA  TAL,  254. 
MALWALA,  449. 
MANASBAL  LAKE,  218. 
MANAULI,  301. 

MANCHHAR  LAKE,  227. 
Any  one  making  a  shoot- 
ing expedition  on  this  lake 
will  do  well  to  engage 
rooms  at  the  rly.  sta., 
which  are  best  for  a  night 
or  two,  as  the  D.B.  at 
Sehwan  is  1^  ra.  from  the 
rly.  sta.  He  should  also 
provide  himself  with  a  cook. 
A  telegram  to  the  station- 
master  a  day  or  two  before- 
hand will  generally  ensure 
a  shikari  and  camels  being 
in  readiness, 

MANDALAY,  426. 

Hotels :  Europe  and  Ori- 
ental. 

Clubs :  The  Upper  Burma 
Club  occupies  certain  of  the 
palace  buildings,  and  has 
sleeping  accommodation. 
The  CivU  Club,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  public 
offices,  has  no  sleeping  ac- 
commodation, and  is  mainly 
an  afternoon  resort  for 
tennis,  etc.  Ladies  are  ad- 
mitted to  both  clubs. 

Bankers:  National  Barik 
of  India. 

Chemists  :  Burma  Medi- 
cal Hall,  Manddlay  Medical 
Hall. 

Conveyances  :  Ticca 
gharries  (or  cabs)  of  an  in- 
ferior description  can  be 
hired  at  fixed  rates  by  time 
or  distance. 

Curios,  etc. :  Signor  Beato. 

General  Stores :  E.  Solo- 
vion  and  Co.,  Rowe  and  Co.^ 
Moses  and  Friends. 

Hairdressers  :  Watson 
and  Son. 

Medical  Men :  The  CivU 
Surgeon  (at  present  Dr. 
Dantra),  Dr.  Pedley. 

Newspapers :  The  Manda- 
lay  Herald  and  The  Mandalay 
Times. 

Photographers :     Signor 
Beato  and  Joliannes  and  Co. 
MANDASOR,  82. 
MANDOR,  122. 
MANDU,  80. 
MANDVI,  165. 

MANGALORE,  365. 

Steamship  Agency: 

British  India  S.  N.  Coy. 
Bank :  Bank  of  Madras. 


478 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


MANGI,  D.B.,  235. 

Sta.  for  Ziarat,  22  in.  dis- 
tant, 8000  ft.  al)ove  the  »e&. 
MANIKPUR  (R.),  36,  104. 
MANIKYALA,  210. 
MANIPUR,  274,  276. 
MANIYACHI,  407. 
MANNAAR,  458. 
MANSERAU,  D.B.,  221. 
MARAVILA,  R.H.  good,  454. 
MARBLE   ROCKS,    2    small 

D.Bs.,  35. 
MARDAN,  213. 
MARGALA,  212. 
MARMAGOA,  301,  363. 
MARTABAN,  435. 
ICARTAND,  219. 
MARWAR,  121. 
MA8KELIYA,  446. 
MATALE,  455. 

R.H.  good,  practically  an 
Hotel. 
MATARA,  R.H.  very  comfort- 
able, 452.     Hotel. 
MATHERAN,  318. 

Much  frequented  from  Sat. 
till  Mon.  in  the  season. 
Hotels :  Granville  H.,  Rugby 
H.,  Gymkhana  H. 
MAU,  102. 

D.B.  \  m.  from  rly.  sta. 
MAYAPUR,  254. 
MAYAVERAM,  397. 
MBDDEGAMA,  R.H.,  461. 
MEEAN  MEER,  199,  206, 221. 
MEERUT,  D.B.,  193. 

Hotels :  The  Empress  H. 
best ;  Lytton  H.,  Meerut  II., 
Gee's  H.,  Courtney's  H. 
Olub :  Wheleer  C. 
Mission  sta.  of  C.M.S. 
IIEHMADABAD,  111. 

Good  Waiting  Room  at 
rly.  sta. 
MEHSANA,  118. 
MEKAR,  74. 
MERGUI,  437. 
MERTA  ROAD,  122. 
METTUPALAIYAM  (R.),388. 
Junction  of  Madras  and 
Nilgiri  Railways.     The  lat- 
ter is  a  monntain  railway, 
whose  present  terminus  is 
Coonoor,   20  miles  up  the 
Hills.      Ootacamund,     the 
hill  capital,  is  12  miles  from 
Coonoor.    The  railway  com- 
pany provides  tongas,  and 
carta  for  luggage,  at  Coo- 
noor, for  those  who   have 
booked  through  to  Ootaca- 
mund.   (R.)  at  Coonoor. 
Take  warm  wraps. 


I  MHOW,  80. 

D.B.  ;    Refi-eshment   and 
Waiting  Room  at  rly.  sta. 
MIANI,  164,  230. 
MIHINTALE,  B.H.,  458. 
MINBU,  434. 
MINCHNAL,  304. 
MINERI,  459. 

MINGUN,  430. 

Steamers:  The  traveller 
should  call  at  the  office  of 
the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Co. 
to  arrange  his  trip. 
MINHLA,  434. 
MIRAJ  (B.),  297. 
D.B.  near  sta. 
MIRISGONI  OYA,  456. 
MIRZAPUR,  D.B.,  89. 
Club :  Mirzapur  C. 
MITHRI,  235. 
MIYAGAM,  108. 
MOGOK,  481. 

MOGUL  SARAI  (R.),  39,  252. 
MOHAL,  381. 
MOHNYIN,  430 
MOHPANI,  35. 
MOHUN,  D.B.,  256. 
MOHUNPOORA,  220. 
MOKAMEH  (R.),  50. 
MONARPUR,  78. 
MONTGOMERY  (R.),    D.B., 

221. 
MONTPEZIR  CAVES,  22. 
MOODKI,  166,  196. 
MOOLTAN,  222. 

Refreshment  and  Waiting 
Rooms  ;  D.B.  exactly  oppo- 
site the  Cantonment  sta. 
MOON  PLAINS,  446. 
MOBADABAD,  288. 

D.B.  Hm.  N.  of  rly.  sta.; 
accommodation  at  rly.  sta. 
on  application  to  station- 
master. 
Hotel :  Imperial  H. 
MORAR,  92. 
MORATUWA,  451. 
MORTAKKA,  D.B.,  78. 

Starting-place  for  Unkaiji. 
MORVI,  152. 
MOULMEIN,  435. 

Hotels  :  Cntericni,  Na- 
tional Hall,  and  British 
India. 

Club  :      T?ie     Moulmein 
Gymkhana.    No  sleeping  ac- 
commodation. 
Bankers:  Bank  of  Bengal. 
Chemists :  Surgical  Hall, 
Tovm  Dispensary. 

Conreyances :  Cabs  (ticca 
gharries)  of  an  inferior  de- 


scription can  be  hired  at 
lixed  rates  by  time  or  d»> 
tanoe.  ! 

Medical  Man:  TheCifft 
Surgeon  (Dr.  Thomas). 

Newspaper:    The  Mad* 
mein  Advertiser. 

Steamers:  The  trsTelkr 

should  call  at  the  office  rf 

the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  On  j 

to  arrange  his  trip.  j 

MOUNT  ABU,  119. 

Good     Refreshment  sod  ; 
Waiting  Rooms  at  Abu  Soai  | 
Sta.>l7  m.  from  Mt.  Aba.     i 
D.B.  on  the  hill. 
Hotel :  Rajputuna  H. 
Bazaar      for 
stores. 
Club:  RajputanaC. 
MOUNT  LAVINIA,  451. 
Hotel:  Grand  H.,  first- 
rate  accommodation. 
MUGUT  KHAN  HUBLI,90L 
MULLAITTIVA,  458. 
MUNDAL.,  D.B.,  257. 
MUNISERAM,  454. 
MUNMaR  (R.),  D.B.,  31. 
MUBKURTI  PEAK,  390. 
MUBREE,  211,  216. 

Hotels :  PowelVs  H.,  Bov- 
bury's  H. 
Club:  MurreeC. 
MURSHEDABAD,  264. 
MUSHOBRA,  192. 
MUSSOORIE,  256. 

Hotels  :    CharleviUe  B. 
(Wutzler's)      very     gwd, 
Hampton  Court  H.y  Timm 
H.  (both  in  Mall),  Himk^ 
H.,  Mussoorie  H.  (Manigw, 
C.  Willard)  near  Clab  wd 
P.O.,  WoodvilU  H.,  Orientd 
/f..  Zephyr  Lodge  H.,  KenU- 
worth  Lodge  H. 
MUTTRA,  D.B.,  182. 
MUTWAL,  442. 
MIYAGAM,  108. 
MYBM8ING(B.),276. 
MYINGYAN,  431. 
MYITKYINA,  431. 

Rly.  from  Bhamo  is  nov 
opened  to  this  place. 
MYOHAUNG,  438. 
MYSORE,    D.B.    near  i^ 
885. 

Hotels :  Gordon  3.  poor. 
Royal  H. 

N. 
NAGAI,  846. 
NAGAM,  128. 
NAGPUR,  74. 

Hotel  close  to  sta.  fat- 
ing Rooms  at  sta. 
Club,  good. 
^Bengal  and  Nagpar  ttf.: 
Express     trains     b^in* 


INDEX  AXD  DIRECTORY 


479 


Calcutta  and    Bombay  via 
Ifagpur  take  48  hrs. 
LINGHAT,  D.B.,  257. 
UN  I  (R.),  36. 

Hotel. 
LENI  TAL,  25S. 

Hotels:  Douglas  Dale  H., 
Reynolds'  H.,  Grand  Hotel 
[formerly  Albion),  and 
Harris  H.,on  the  Mall  N.  of 
the  lake ;  Langham  H.,  S. 
Mall ;  Hill's  H.,  near  P.O. 
»nd.  Club ;  Murray's  H.  ; 
Rt^stom  Family  H. 

Clab:  Naini  TaX  C,  near 
3t.  John's  Church. 

Shop:  MorrisorCs  (Euro- 
pean goods). 

From      Kathgodam      to 
t7aini  Tal  Brewery  by  tonga 
daily,  3  rs.  8  as.     Dandies, 
ponies,  and  coolies  are  al- 
ways available  at  Brewery, 
where  there  are  also  R.  and 
Bleeping  accommodation. 
AJIBABAD,  238. 
A.KELO,  R.H.,  461. 
ALANDE,  R.H.  good,  455. 
AL.HATI,  264. 
ALWAR,  333. 
AMBAPANB,  R.H.,  451. 
ANDGAON,  31. 

D.B.    (R.),   and    Waiting 
Rooms. 
ANDIDRUO,  378. 

Hotel,  managed  by  pro- 
prietor of  Cubbon  fT.,  Ban- 
galore. 

ANDYAL,  358. 
ANGPOH,  D.B.,  274. 
ANJANGUD,  386. 
'ANUOYA,  446. 
'ARAINA,  126. 
fARAINGANJ,  D.B.,  275. 
rARAKAL,  369. 

Steamship         Agents : 

B.LS.N.  Co.,  Aspinwall  and 

Co. 

fARAMMULA,  444. 
rARI,  235. 
lARKANDA,  192. 

D.B.    Six  rooms,  splendid 

view  of  snowy  range. 
fARMAH,  237. 
f  ASAK  FRONTIER,  235. 
rASIK  ROAD,  28. 

Waiting  Rooms.     Capital 

Tongas  on  hire. 
Tramway  to  City  5  m. 

distant. 
STASIK,  D.B. 

Mission:  C.M.S.  sta.  (at 

Sharanpore),  see  p.  29. 
Headquarters      Royal 

Western   India    Golf  Club  ; 

good  links. 
STASINA  (R.),  288. 
STATTORB  (R.),  D.B.,  270. 


NAULA,  R.H.,  462. 
NAUSA^,  126. 
NAVSARI,  105. 
NAWANAGAR,  165. 
NAY'^A   BUNGALOW,   D.B., 

274. 
NAYNAROO,  218. 
NBEMUCH  (R.),  82. 

D.B.      Good   Club,   with 
cricket    ground,    etc.,    at- 
tached. 
NEGAPATAM  (R.),  400. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B.LS.N.  Co.,  weekly  service 
to  coast  ports.    Rooms  at 
rly.  sta. 
NEGOMBO,    R.H.   excellent, 

426. 
NEKI,  221. 
NELLORE,  334. 

D.B.  good. 
NBMAL  AAR,  462. 
NERAL  (R.),  318. 

Very      good      Waiting 
Room,  with  Baths,  etc.  at 
rly.  sta. 
NERBUDDA  RIVER,  78. 
NIGRITING,  274. 
NILANA  VALLEY,  220. 
NILGALA,  R.H.,  460. 
NILGIRI  HILLS,  391. 
NOWSHERA,  213,  220. 

D.B.  near  Post  Office. 
NUSSEERABAD,  86,  126. 

D.B.  1  m.  from  rly.  sta. 
NUWARA  ELIYA,  446. 

Hotels :  Keena  House  (Mrs. 
Scott's),  good  and  moderate ; 
Grand  H.  indifferent,  better 
accommodation  at  the  club. 
Club  :  a  comfortable 
bungalow. 
Golf  Club. 

The  excursion  to  the  Boer 
camp  near  Dyatalowa  can 
be  made  in  one  day. 
NYAUNGU,  431. 

0. 

OKANDA,  R.H.,462. 

OKHAMANDAL,  164. 

OODEYPORB,  D.B.  good,  85. 
Travellers  of  distinction, 
who  are  recommended  by 
the  Resident,  will  find  ac- 
commodation in  the  Maha- 
rana's  Guest  House.  Those 
who  intend  staying  at  the 
D.B.  should  write  before- 
hand to  the  Khansamah  in 
cliarge,  as  the  accommoda- 
tion is  limited.  Carriages 
are  provided  from  the 
Maharana's  stables  on 
application  to  the  Resident. 
Mission:  U.F.  Church  of 
Scotland,  medical. 


OOMANPUR,  112. 
OOMERKOTE.  See  Umerkote, 
OOMER  NATH,  219. 
OOTAOAMUND,  389. 

Hotels :  SyWs  H. ;  H.  de 
Paris  ;  RoseTnount  H.;  Shore- 
ham,  H. 

Boarding  House :  Long- 
wood:  Alta  Villas. 

Clubs :     Ootacamund    C. 
and  Gymkhana  C. 
Bank  :  Bank  of  Madras. 
ORAI(R.),  D.B.,  91. 
OROHHA,  102. 

P. 

PABBI,  213. 

PACHBADRA,  121. 

PACHMARI,  35. 

Hotel :  Fachviari  H. 
Military     Convalescent 
Depot. 

PACHORA,  D.B.,  31. 

PAGAN,  431. 

PAILGAM,  219. 

PAKOKKU,  431,  439. 

PAK  PATTAN,  222. 

PALABADDALA,  good    ac- 
commodation and  water,450. 

PALAMCOTTA,  408. 

Missions:  C.  If.  S.  Training 
Institution ;  Schools ;  Sarah 
Tucker  Institution ;  Tamil 
Mission  Church. 

PALAMPODDARU,       R.H., 
460. 

PALANPUR  (R.),  D.B.,  119. 

PALETWA,  438. 

PALHALLAN,  219. 

PALITANA,  153. 

D.B.  DooUes  can  be  ob- 
tained either  privately  or 
through  the  officers  of  the 
Palitana  Darbar. 

PALLAl,  R.H.,  458. 

PALLEGAMA,  448. 

PALNI  HILLS,  404. 
See  Ammayanaydkanur. 

PALUTUPANB,  R.H.,  454. 

PANADURA,  R.H.  good  and 
well  situated,  451. 

PANCHGANNI,  293. 

PANDHARPUR,  381. 

PANDUAH,  269. 

PANHALA,  298. 

PANIKKANKULAM,    R.H., 
458. 

PANIPUT,  R.H.,  187. 
PANKULAM,  R.H.,  455. 
PAPANASHAM,  408. 
PARAHAT,  78. 
PARASGAD,  301. 


480 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


PARASNATH   MOUNTAIN, 
50. 

PARBATI,  328. 

PARBATIPUR  (R.),  270. 

PASSARA,  R.H.,  448. 

PATAL  PANI,  80. 

PATAN,  119. 

PATAN  SOMNATH,  161. 
B.H.  of  Janagarh  State. 

PATHANKOT(R.),  D.B.,  199. 

PATIALA,  166. 

PATNA,  48. 

PATRI,  D.B.,  152. 

PATTADAKAL,  315. 

PATTAN,  219. 

PAWANGADH,  298. 

PAWANGARH,  109,  110. 

PAYECH,  218. 

PEGU  (R.),  425. 

PELMADULLA,  R.H.,  450. 

PENDRA,  76. 

PEONTRBE,  257. 

PERADENIYA,  443. 

PESHAWAR,  D.B.,  213. 

Hotel:    de  Bozario's   H., 
near    Cantonment    railway 
station. 
MiBsioiLB :  see  p.  213. 

PBTLAD,  110. 

PHAGU,  192. 

D.B.,  grand  view. 

PHALERA  (R.),  123. 

PHALrLUT,  272. 

PHELIBHEET,  D.B.,  238. 

PILLAIYAN  KOVIL,  409. 

PIND  DAD  AN  KHAN,  209. 

PINDRI  GLACIER,  254. 

PIPARIA,  35. 

D.B.  Notice  should  be 
sent  to  ensure  meals  being 
provided.  Country  carts 
available  for  luggage.  Ton- 
gas available  by  writing  to 
Mail  Contractor. 

PIRANA  MONASTERY,  118. 

PIR  PANJAL,  220. 

PIR  PATTAN,  231. 

PLASSEY,  266. 

PODANUR  (R.),  387. 

Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation^t  the  rly.  sta. 

POLGAHAWELA,  443. 

POLLONARUA,  459. 

The  Govt.  Bungalow  on 
the  Bund  does  duty  as  the 
R.H.,  and  is  comfortable. 

PONDICHERRY,  394. 
Hotels  and  D.B. 
SteamsMp         Agents  : 
B.I. S.N.     Co.  ;     Messageries 
Maritimes,     Gallois    Mont- 
brun. 

POONA  (R.),  325. 

Hotels:  Connaught  H., 
best;  (.7w6  H.,  Napier  It., 
Poona  H. 


Bank :  Bombay  Bank 
(Branch). 

Olubs:  Western  India  C, 
between  Ordnance  Lines  and 
Woodhouse  Road  sta.,  very 
good.  Has  sleeping  accom- 
modation. 

ITie  Boat  Club  fonns  an 
important  feature  in  the 
amusements  of  the  place. 
Gymkhana  Club  and  Library. 
A  visitor,  introduced  by  a 
member,  can  join  the  Club. 
On  the  cricket -ground, 
attached,  are  played  the 
principal  matches  during 
the  monsoon  months. 

Golf  Club:  good  links. 

Mail  Contractor  :  Arde- 
shir  Framjee,  Civil  Lines. 

Milliner  and  Dress- 
maker :  Miss  Watson. 

Missions :  see  p.  826. 

Cowley  Wantage  Mission, 
Panch  Howds,  Poena  City. 

C.M.S.  sta.  (Mission  House 
at  Cyprus  Lodge),  Divinity 
School. 
PORADAHA,  270,  275. 
PORBANDAR,  D.B.,  164. 
PORTO  NOVO,  396. 
POSHIANA,  D.B.,  220. 
PRATABGARH  HILL  - 

FORT,  294. 

PROME,  434. 

PUNCH,  D.B.,  221. 

PURANDHAR,  330. 

PURI  (Jagannath),  278,  353. 
D.B.  i  m.  from  rly.  sta. 
The  excursion  to  the  Black 
Pagoda  (20  m.)  is  best  done 
by  night  in  a  palki  (5  hrs.), 
devoting  the  following  day 
to  the  Pagoda  and  the  night 
after  to  the  return  journey. 
There  is  no  very  satisfactory 
place  to  spend  the  night  in 
near  the  Black  Pagoda,  but 
accommodation  may  be  ob- 
tained at  Kamarak,  about 
1  m.  from  the  Pagoda,  where 
there  is  a  Salt  Chauki. 

PURULIA,  78. 

PUSHKAR  LAKE,  D.B.,  126. 

PUSSELLA,       R.H.       good, 
beautifully  situated,  449. 

PUTTALAM,    R.H.    indiffer- 
ent, 454. 

PYINMANA,  426. 


Q. 

QUETTA  (R.),  236. 

D.B.  Hotel :  Lansdowne  H. 

A  new  line  is  in  contem- 
plation, either  by  the  Zhob 
Valley,  or  via  Mushkhat. 

Club  :  Qvetta  C. 


R. 

RACKWANE,  450. 

RAEWIND  (R.),  221. 

RAIGHUR  (R.),  D.B.,  333. 

RAIDANI,  221. 

RAIGARH,  77,  329.  ' 

RAIPUR,  D.B.,  76. 

RAJAHMUNDRY  (B-X  352.  ' 

RAJAORl,  D.B.,  220. 

RAJKOT,  164. 

D.B.  facing  the  nux- 
course. 

RAJMAHAL,  266. 

RAJPORE,  D.B.,  256. 

Hotels :  PHnce  of  Waleit 
H.,  New  H.,  Victoria  ft 
Hurst's  jhainpans,  ponies, 
and  dandies  available. 

RAJPURA,  195. 

RAMBAGH,  D.B.,  253. 

RAMBHA,  353. 

RAM  BOD  A  PASS,  446. 

RAMBUKKANA,  444. 

RAMBSWARAM,  371,  400. 

RAMNAQAR,  46. 

RAMPUR,  D.B.,  217. 

RANAGHAT,  D.B.,  270. 

RANCHI,  78. 

RANDER,  107. 

RANGMO  RIVER,  272. 

RANGOON,  420. 

Hotels:  Jordan's,  Mer- 
chant Street ;  The  StrcMdH.; 
British  India,  Sule  PagoAi 
Road. 

English  Boarding 
Houses :  Mrs.  Ledqfi^ 
3  Ahlone  Road,  next  to 
Government  Lodge,  15  mifl. 
drive  from  the  Wharf :  Poniw 
with  Victorias  and  D(^-carti 
on  hire  ;  Mrs.  Smith,  "Allea- 
dale,"  in  cantonments  2  m. 
from  Post  Offtce,  well  spokm 
of  —  Booms  should  t»  en- 
gaged beforehand;  Orien- 
tal Boarding  Establiskvnt, 
Phayre  Street.  Some  people 
find  it  convenient  to  stay 
on  board  the  Irrawaddy 
steamers,  where  the  cabins 
are  clean  and  the  food  good. 
Restaurants  at  theabow 
hotels  ;  also  at  Chiesa's, 
Italian  confectioner,  Wir- 
wick  House,  Fytche  Square. 
Clubs  :  Pegu  Club,  Prome 
Road  Cantonments,  witfc 
sleeping  accommodation  at- 
tached. Strangers  adraittrf 
as  honorary  members. 

Burma  Club,  Merclaat 
Street.  Strangers  admittrf 
as  honorary  members. 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


481 


German  Club^  Comniis- 
sioners  Road., 

Gymkhana  Club,  Halpin 
Hoad.  A  favoui-ite  resort 
in  the  evenings.  Ladies  ad- 
iimitted.  Tennis  courts, 
l^illiard  tables,  reading 
room,  bar,  etc.  Military 
l)ai)d  most  evenings. 

Agents:  Scott  and  Co., 
Merchant  Street;  Thos.  Cook 
and  S&n. 

Bands:  A  military  band 
performs  four  times  a  week 
at  the  Gymkfiana  in  Halpin 
Road ;  once  a  week  (usually) 
in  Fytche  Square,  in  the 
Cantonment  Gardens,  and  in 
DcUhousie  Park. 

Bankers  :  Bank  of  Bengal, 
Strand  Road ;  Chartered 
Bank  of  India,  Atistralia, 
and  China,  Strand  Road ; 
Honglcong  and  Shanghai 
Banking  Corporation,  Na- 
tional Bank  of  India,  Phayre 
Street ;  Agra  Bank. 

Booksellers :  Myles  Stand- 
ish  and  Co.,  58  Barr  Street ; 
American  Baptist  Mission 
Press. 

Galling :  Tlie  usual  calling 
hours  are  between  12  and  2, 
but  the  custom  of  calling  in 
the  afternoon  (between  4 
and  6)  is  now  becoming 
generally  recognised. 

Chemists :  E.  M.  de  Souza 
and  Co.  ,215  Dalhousie  Street; 
Rangoon  Medical  Hall,  72 
Merchant  Street ;  New  Medi- 
cal Hall,  6  Phayre  Street. 

Consuls :  The  American 
Consul  is  usually  the  senior 
partner  of  the  firm  of  Messrs. 
Bulloch  Bros,  on  the  Strand 
Road.  The  names  of  the 
representatives  of  other 
nations  are  given  in  the 
Quarterly  Civil  List,  and 
also  in  the  Burma  Directory, 
published  at  the  Rangoon 
Gazette  Press  in  Merchant 
Street. 

Conveyances :  Cabs  (ticca 
gharries)  of  a  somewhat  in- 
ferior kind,  drawn  by  single 
ponies,  can  be  hired  at 
moderate  charges  (accord- 
ing to  the  class  of  convey- 
ance) by  time  or  distance. 
The  drivers  are  usually 
Madrassis,  who  understand 
neither  English,  Burmese, 
nor  Hindustani,  and  know 
neither  the  names  of  the 
streets  nor  the  situation  of 
the  principal  offices  or 
houses.  Strangers  should 
therefore,  if  possible,  take  a 

[India,  ii.  03.] 


Tamil-speaking  servant  with 
them  when  going  about 
Rangoon  in  cabs. 

Craftsmen:  The  princi- 
pal  Burmese  silversmiths, 
goldsmiths,  and  wood  carv- 
ers are  to  be  found  in  God- 
win Road ;  specimens  of 
Burmese  wood  carving  can 
also  be  obtained  at  the  Cen- 
tral Jail ;  images  of  Gauda- 
ma  in  brass  and  alabaster, 
and  kalagas  (appliqu6  work) 
in  Kemmendine. 

Dentists  :  Mr.  Moore  in 
Fytche  Square,  and  Mr. 
Stephens  in  Merchant  Street. 

General  Stores :  Scott  atid 
Co.,  Merchant  Street ;  Rovoe 
and  Co.,  Sule  Pagoda  Road  ; 
Tlie  Burma  Co  -  operative 
Society,  Sule  Pagoda  Road. 

Hairdressers  :  Frank 
Watson,  Merchant  Street ; 
Watson  and  Sumrmrs,  Mer- 
chant Street. 

Libraries :  Bernard  Free 
Library  at  the  Rangoon  Col- 
lege, and  Rangoon  Literary 
Society  and  Circulating 
Library  in  York  Road. 

Markets :  The  Municipal 
Market  on  the  Strand  Road, 
the  Suratee  Bazaar  in  China 
Street,  and  the  Mwiicipal 
Bazaar  at  Kemmendine. 

Medical  Men :  The  Senior 
and  Junior  Civil  Surgeons 
(at  present  Drs.  Johnstone 
and  Baker)  in  Cantonments  ; 
Dr.  T.  F.  Pedley  in  Sule  Pa- 
goda Street,  Dr.  W.  H. 
Sutherland  in  Lake  Road, 
Dr.  E.  M.  de  Souza  in  Dal- 
housie Street,  and  several 
others. 

MiUiners  and  Dress- 
makers :  Rowe  and  Co. ; 
Madame  le  Breton,  74  Mer- 
chant Street. 

Monasteries:  In  the  im- 
mediate neighbourhood  of 
the  Pazundaung  rly.  sta. 
dwells  Uthilaumntha,  an  old 
monk  with  a  special  pen- 
chant for  Europeans.  He 
keeps  a  very  successful 
school,  and  is  always  pleased 
to  receive  visitors- 
Newspapers :  The  two 
leading  English  newspapers 
are  the  Rangoon  Gazette  and 
the  Rangoon  Times,  and  the 
leading  vernacular  news 
paper  is  the  Burma  Herald. 

Photographers :  Klier, 
Signal  Pagoda  Road  ;  Watts 
and  Skeen,  Sule  Pagoda 
Road. 


Railways :  There  are  two 
lines  out  of  Rangoon— 

(1)  The  Irrawaddy  Line 
running  to  Prome. 

(2)  The  Sittang  Line  run 
ning  to  Toungoo  and  Manda- 
lay,  and  thence  to  Wuntho. 

The  terminus  for  both 
lines  is  at  the  junction  of 
Phayre  Street  and  Mont- 
gomeiy  Street.  The  Irra- 
waddy  line  has  pick-up 
stations  at  Godwin  Road,  ■ 
Prome  Road,  and  Alon,  and 
a  large  station  at  Kemmen- 
dine. 

Steamship  Agencies : 
Bibby  Lim,  The  Arrakau 
Co.,  Limited. 

British  India  S.  N.  Co. 
Messrs.  Bulloch  Bros., 
Strand  Road. 

Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Co., 
Strand  Road. 

Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  and 
Sotis,  Merchant  Street. 

Theatres:  There  are  no 
theatres,  but  travelling 
companies  frequently  visit 
Rangoon  and  give  perform- 
ances at  the  Assembly 
Rooms  in  Pagoda  Road. 

Tramways :  A  steam 
tramway  runs  from  the 
Strand  Road  to  the  Great  Pa  - 
goda  along  China  Street  and 
Pagoda  Road,  and  another 
along  Dalhousie  Street  from 
Alon  to  Pazundaung. 

RANIGUNJ,  3  D.Bs.,  51. 
Hotel ;  WillianVs  H. 
RANIKHET,  D.B.,  2o4. 
RANIPET,  371. 
RANJIT  RIVER,  272. 
RANNE,    R.H.     small     and 
poor^  424. 

RATANPUR,  77. 
RATLAM.    See  Rutlam. 

RATNAGIRI,  363. 

D.B.     Excellent  club. 

RATNAPURA,    R.H.    good, 
449,  451. 

RAWAL  PINDI  (R.),  211. 

Cantonment  D.B.  close  to 
Post  Office. 

Hotels:  Flashman's  H., 
best,  opposite  the  club. 
Linietree  H.,  near  sta. ;  Raical 
Pindi  H.,  MeUor's  H.,  Mrs. 
Bryant's  H.,  Mrs.  Stewart's 
II.,  Imperial  II. 

Club :  Rawal  Pindi  C. 
RBNIGUNTA  (R.),  334. 

June,  for  Tirupati  and 
S.I.R.,  and  for  Nellore. 

Rooms  at  rly.  sta. 

2  I 


482 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


RETI  (R.).  224. 

REWARI  (R.),  131,  165. 

R.H.  not  far  from  rly.  sta. 

REZON,  219. 
RINDLI,  237. 
ROHRI,  D.B.,  225. 
ROORKEE,  D.B.,  237,  256. 
ROTAS,  D.B.,  209. 
ROURKELA,  78. 
ROY  BAREILLY,  239 

ROZA,  69. 

See  EUora. 

RUANWELLA,  R.H.,  449. 
RUDBAR,  237. 
RUK  (R.),  D.B.,  226,  234. 
RUNGARUN,  271. 
RUNGPORE,  D.B.,  278. 
RUNN  OF  CUTCH,  152. 
RUTLAM,  D.B.  (R.),  82. 
RUTTEN  PIR,  220. 


S. 

SABARMATI,  118,  152. 

SABATHU,  191, 

SADHARA,  88. 

SADRAS,  412. 

SAGAING,  429. 

SAHARANPORE  (R.),   D.B., 
194,  237,  256. 

SAHEBGUNGE  (R.),  50. 

SAIDABAD,  D.B.,  220. 

SAIRAH,  221. 

SAL EK ASA,  76. 

SALEM  (R.),  387. 

Starting  point  for  Yer- 
caud  and  Shevaroy  Hills. 
The  native  town  of  Salem  is 
4  m.  distant  from  the  rly. 

Accommodation  at  rly. 
sta.  much  needed  for  tra- 
vellers to  »nd  from  Shevaroy 
Hills.  Mail  train  from 
Madras  and  Bombay  arrives 
at  4.13  A.M. 

SALEMYO,  484. 
SALUVAN  KUPPAN,  409. 
SAMAGULING,  274. 
SAMALKOT,  352. 
SAMBALPUR,  D.B.,  77 
SAMBHAR  LAKE,  123. 


I 


SAMPGAON,  301. 

'  SANAWAR,  190. 

.  8AN0HI  (Gt.  TopeX  88. 

D.B.  good,  but  provisions 
I     should  be  taken. 

SANGAM,  326. 

SANGANER,  129. 
'  SAPARA,  25- 
'  SARA  GHAT,  270. 
i  SARANDA  FORESTS,  78. 
I  SARDAIPUR,  288. 

SARDHANA,  D.B.,  193. 
'  SARKHEJ,  117. 
I  SARNATH,  46. 

SARUR  NAOAR,  348. 

SATARA  ROAD,  294. 

Good     waiting-room     at 
Station.    D.B.  at  Satara. 
SATGAON,  64. 
SAUGAR  ISLAND,  52. 
SAUGOR,  D.B.,  89. 
SAUNDATI,  301. 

SEOUKDERABAD,  348. 

Hotels :  The  Duke  of  Cm- 
naught  H.,  clean  and  com- 
fortable, English  landlady. 
Visitors  to  Hyderabad,  5J 
m.  distant,  will  find  better 
acconmiodation  here. 

Clubs :  United  Service  C.  ; 
Gymkhann. 

SBHWAN,  227. 

D.B.  It  is  necessary  for 
the  traveller  to  bring  pro- 
visions with  him, 

SENCHAL  273. 

SERAM,  845. 

SERAMPORE,  64. 

Mission:  Baptist  College 
and  Schools,  Zanana. 

SERARIM,  D.B.,  277. 

SERINQAPATAM,  380. 

SEVEN    PAGODAS    (Maha- 
balipur),  408. 

SHADIPORE,  217. 

SHAHABAD  333. 

SHAH  DARA,  206,  207. 

SHAHJAHANPUR  (R.),  239. 
Club :  Shahjahanpur  C. 

SHAH  RIG  (R.),  235. 
SHALIMAR,  205 
SHANKARPALLI,  345 
SHEAGAON  (R.),  D.B.,  74. 
SHEINMAGA,  431. 


8HBKOHPURA,  207. 
8HELA  BAGH,  236.  ' 

SHER  SHAH,  D.B.,  22t 
SHETBUNJEE       (SATBUH- 

JAYA)  HILLS,  153. 
SHEVAROY  HILLS,  387. 
Two  small  Hotels. 
Boarding  House  kept  br 

Miss    Nor/or,    and    scTerrf 

others. 

SBIKARPUR,  221,  234. 
D.B.        Ti-avellers    must 
bring  provisions  with  them. 
It  is  better  to  stop  at  Rni 
or  Jaeobabad. 

SHILLONO,  D.B.,  274,  277. 
Hotel:  ShiaongB.  Pony 
Tonga  service  daily  to  6«u- 
hati.  Rates  for  each  seat  fa 
tonga  25  rs.,  15  seers  of 
luggage  free.  Write  to 
Manager,  Gauhati  andShil- 
long  Transit  Service,  Gau- 
hati. 

SHISHA  NAG,  219. 
SmVASAMUDRAM,     DX 

fair,  879. 
SHOLAPUR,  D.B.,  304,  351. 
SHRAVANA      BELAGOLi, 

362. 
SHRINAGAR,  164. 
SHIJKLTIRTH,  108. 
SHUPIYAN,  D.B.,  220. 
SHWEGU,  430. 
SIALKOT,  208. 
Good  D.B. 
SIBI  (R.),  D.  235. 
SIDHPUR,  119. 
SIGIRI,  456. 
SIHORE,  D.B.,  155. 
SIKAl^DARAH,  176. 
SILI8ERH  LAKE,  131. 

SILLIGURI  (R.  good),  D.B., 
270. 

SIMLA  191. 

Hotels :  PelUi's  H.  (best). 
Lowrie's  H.,  on  the  MaU, 
close  to  the  Church,  Libraiy, 
and  Club  (open  throughont 
the  year.  At  it  is  »" 
Agency  for  Coolies.  vb>\ 
general  forwarding  pur- 
poses.) Longwood  H.,  C.  M. 
H.,  Elysium  H.,  Roekdiff  B. 

Banks:  There  are  sevenL 

dubs :  The  United  Servitf, 
above  Corabennere  Bridge. 
comfortable. 

Simla  and  Kalka  Una 
Tongas,  25  ra.  ;  phaetons,  50 
rs. ;  and  invalid  hill-carriages 
used  for  this  journey.  Seats 


INDEX   AND    DIRECTORY 


483 


booked  in  ordinary  convey- 
ances ,  8  rs. ,  leaving  at  9  a.  m.  , 
are  always  subject  to  the 
condition  that  the  weight 
■^  and  bulk  of  local  and  jmrcel 
-  mails  will  admit  of  pas- 
sengers (12  seers  of  luggage 
free).  Passengers  by  tonga, 
:  using  the  front  seat,  should 
wear  close-fitting  spectacles 
or  veils,  as  a  protection 
against  injury  to  their  eyes 
from  particles  of  stone  or 
metal.  The  mail  tonga  takes 
about  8  hrs.,  stopping  half- 
way at  Solon  for  tiffin. 
Mountain  rly.  under  con- 
struction. 

SIND  VALLEY,  219. 

SINGU,  430. 

SINHGARH,  328. 

SIR-I-BOLAN,  237. 

SIRHIND,  195. 

SIRSA  (R.),  166. 

SITARAMPUR,  51. 

SOBRAON,  166, 196. 

SOLON,  190. 

D.B.  excellent,  and  Khan- 
samah's  H. 

SOMNATHP0R,  879. 

SONAMARG,  219. 

80NARI,  88. 

SONGAD,  153. 

Dharmsala  comfortable. 

This  is  the  station  for 
Pali  tana.  Write  to  Dep. 
Ass.  Pol.  Agent  at  Songad 
for  a  conveyance. 

80NGIR,  109. 

•      SONUA,  78 

SOOKNA,  270. 

SOPOR,  217. 

SRIMANGAL,  277 

SRINAGAR,  D.B.,  217. 

Nedou's  Hotel  very  good. 

Visitors  to  Srinagar  gener- 
ally live  in  their  house- 
boats, or  in  tents  pitched 
in  the  various  lovely  groves 
which  surround  the  city. 

The  best  camping  grounds 
are  the  Chenar  Bagh  (for 
bachelors),  the  Munshi 
Bagh,  the  Ram  Munshi 
*  Bagh,  and  the  Nasira  Bagh 
(on  the  Dal  Lake). 

The  Native  Agent  of 
the  Maharaja  for  visitors 
will  give  any  information  as 
to  quarters,  prices,  coolies, 
etc. 


Cockbum's  Agency  under- 
takes the  hire  of  boats, 
tents,  furniture,  and  all 
camp  requisites,  which 
should  be  ordered  to  be 
ready  on  arrival.  They  also 
advise  visitors  as  to  pur- 
chases, and  give  every  kind 
t)f  information. 

English  Church  Service 
every  Sunday  in  the  new 
English  Church  in  the 
Munshi  Bagh. 

Missions.— The  C.  M.  S. 
has  a  station  and  doctors 
here,  and  a  fine  hospital. 

Official  Rules  for  Travel- 
lers.— Copies  are  obtainable 
frotn  the  Resident,  and  from 
Babu  Amarnath. 

There  are  fair  Gunsmiths 
and  Tacklemakers  in  the 
town,  also,  a  Library— Tra- 
vellers are  allowed  to  take 
books  out.  Turkish  Baths. 

Residency  Surgeon  at- 
tends visitors  during  the 
season. 

SRI  RANOAM,  403 

SUKKtJR  (R.),  226. 

D.B.  }  m.  from  the  sta. 
in  the  European  quarters, 
the  best  in  Sind. 

SULTANPUR,  192. 
D.B.  bad. 

SUMBAL,  217. 

SUNAWIN,  217. 

SUPARA,  21,  25,  27. 

SURAMUNGALAM  (R.),  387. 

Rly.  sta.  for  the  town  of 

Salem,    and    starting-point 

for  Yercaud  and  the  Sheva- 

roy  Hills. 

SURAT,  105. 

R.,  Some  sleeping  accom- 
modation and  Waiting 
Room  at  rly.  sta.  D.B.  on 
river-bank. 

Inlaid  Work  and  Carved 
Sandal  Wood  are  specialities 
of  Surat. 

SUTGATI,  D.B.,  800. 

SUTNA,  36. 

D.B.  about  1  m.  from  rly. 
sta.  (R.)  Carts  and  ponies 
available.  Changing  sta. 
for  engines. 

SYLHET  VALLEY.    4  D.Bs., 


SYNJ,  257. 
SYRIAM,  424. 


T. 

TADPATRI  (R.),  D.B.  in  the 

town,  334. 
TAIGANNAM,  390. 
TAKHI,  237. 
TALAWAKELE,  446. 
TALBAHAT,  D.B.,  89. 
TAMLUK,  53. 
TANDUR(R.),  346 

TANGALLA,  453. 

R.H.  remarkably  good 
and  pleasantly  situated 
close  to  the  sea. 

TANGHI,  B.D.,  290. 

TANGROT,  D.B.,  221. 

TANIN,  219. 

TANJORE  (R.),  398. 

D.B.,  not  very  comfort- 
able, close  to  sta.,  to  the 
B.  of  the  Little  Fort,  where 
ix)ny  and  bullock  -  carts 
are  available. 

TANNA,  D.B.,  27. 

TANSA,  D.B.,  26. 

TANSA  WATER  SUPPLY,26. 

TAPTI  BRIDGE,  34. 

TARAGARH,  124. 

TARN  TARAN,  D.B.,  199. 

TATTA,  230. 

There  is  only  a  native 
rest-house  here,  but  there 
is  a  D.B.  (food  must  be 
taken)  on  theMdkkalli  Hills. 

Telegraph  Sta.  here. 

TAVOY,  437. 

TEENDARIA  (R.),  271. 

TBESTA,  D.B.,  273. 

TEESTA  GHAT,  270. 

TEHRI,  102. 

TELLICHERRY,  366. 

D.B.  good.    There  is  also 
an  excellent  little  Club. 
Agents :  B.I.S.N.  Co. 

TERIA  GHAT,  D.B.,  277 

TEZPORE,  D.B.,  274. 

THABBIKKYIN,  430. 

THANNA  MANDI,  D.B.,  220. 

THANESAR,  D.B.,  189. 

THAYETMO,  434. 

THEOG,  192. 

TIGER  IIILL,  271. 


484 


INDEX    AND    DIRECTORY 


TIGYAING,  430. 
TIN  DIVAN  AM  (R.),  393. 
D.B.  good,  with  servants 
and  crockery. 
TINNEVELLY,  D.B..  407. 
Missions:  S.P.G.  sta.  (at 
Nazareth);  C.M.S.  College. 

TINNIPITIYAWEWA  TANK 
454. 

TIN  PAHAR,  206. 

R.H.  siuall  but  good. 

TIRAPANE,  R.H.,  456. 

TIRUPATI,  334. 

Refreshment  and  sleeping 
rooms  at  Renigunta  Junc- 
tion Station.  Write  before- 
hand to  station-master  for 
conveyance. 

TONGLU,  272. 

TORWAH,  304. 

TOSHAM,  165. 

TRIOHINOPOLY  (R.),  401. 
Comfortable  sleeping  ac- 
commodation at  rly.  st«.  ; 
D.B.    1  m.  from    sta.   not 
recommended. 
Olilb :  Trichinopoly  C. 

TRIMALGIRI,  348. 

TRIMBAK,  30. 

TRINOOMALEB,  R.H.,  460. 
SteamsMp         Agents : 
B.I.S.N.  Co. 

TRIVALUR,  34S. 

TUGHLAKABAD,  151. 

TUMKUR  (R.),  362. 

TUNDLA  (R.),  260. 

TUNI,  352. 

TUTICORIN(R.)D.B.,371,407. 
Hotel:  British  India  H., 
immediately  opposite  the 
station,  has  accommodation 
for  three  first -class  and 
two  second-class  visitors. 
The  charge  for  board  and 
lodging  is — 

First  class,  Rs.  4-8-0  )  per 
Second  „  „  3-0-0  I  diem. 
Road  Conveyance :  Car- 
riages and  jatkas  are  usually 
procurable  at  the  station, 
the  fares  being  8  and  2 
annas  per  mile,  respectively. 
Bullock-carts  can  be  hired 
in  the  town,  the  charge 
being  2  annas  per  mile. 

Railway  FaciUties:  First 
and  second  class  carriages 
are  run  to  and  from  the  pier 
in  connection  with  the  de- 
parture and  arrival  of  the 
Mail  steamers  to  and  from 
Colombo.  Waiting  accom- 
modation is  provided  at  the 
station  for  ladies  and  gentle- 


men, and  there  is  also  a 
.  Refreshment  Room  under 
the  management  of  Messrs. 
Spencer  &  Co.  The  butler 
in  charge  has  usually  a  few 
copies  of  the  Madras  Mail 
and  Madras  Times  for  sale, 
as  well  as  a  small  stock  of 
travellers'  requisites.  In 
case  of  the  late  arrival  of 
the  Colombo  steamer, 
Messrs.  Spencer  &  Co.  can 
generally  arrange  to  serve 
breakfast  in  the  train.  Ice 
and  aerated  waters  are 
carried  by  all  main  line 
Mail  trains  during  day 
journeys,  and  can  hd  pur- 
chased at  the  rates  pub- 
lished in  the  Company's 
Guide. 

Shipping  Arrangements : 
A  British  India  Steam  Navi- 
gation Company's  steamer 
leaves  daily  (Sundays  ex- 
cepted) at  6  P.M.  for  Col- 
ombo, and  one  arrives  from 
Ceylon  daily  (Mondays  ex- 
cepted) at  about  8  a.m.,  the 
passage  occupying  about  16 
hours.  The  journey  between 
the  pier  and  steamer  is  made 
in  a  steam  launch  belonging 
to  the  British  India  Steamer 
Agents  at  Tuticorin,  and 
occupies  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  For  further 
particulars,  in  connection 
with  the  launch  service,  the 
Company's  Guide  should  be 
consulted.  The  British 
India  Company's  coasting 
steamers  between  Calcutta 
and  Bombay  touch  at  Tuti- 
corin once  a  week  and  their 
other  vessels  as  occasion 
offers.  The  Asiatic  Com- 
pany's steamers  and  those 
of  the  Japanese  line  also 
call  at  the  port.  A  large 
number  of  sailing  boats  of 
20  tons  burden  are  always 
procurable  on  an  average 
payment  of  Rs.  12.8  per  trip 
to  steamer  and  back.  The 
pier  belongs  to  Government, 
and  is  under  the  control  of 
the  Port  Officer.  There  are 
also  several  private  jetties 
belonging  to  the  various 
mercantile  firms. 

Bank:  Bank  of  Madras. 

Local  Manufactures 
and  Products :  There  is 
a  large  Government  salt 
factory  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  from  the  station,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a 
siding.  In  the  town  are 
several  cotton  presses  and 


an  important  Spinning  MilL 
Tuticorin  is  the  centre  of 
very  ancient  pearl  and 
conch  shell  fisheries,  bat 
since  the  deepening  of  tie 
Pamban  Channel  between 
India  and  Ceylon,  the  yield 
has  greatly  decreased.  The 
Manaar  pearl,  which  is  not 
of  good  colour,  is  usually 
fished  for  in  March,  April, 
and  May,  under  Govern- 
ment management. 

Local  Officials  :  Tbe 
officials  having  offices  at 
Tuticorin  are  the  Sub-Col- 
lec  tor,  Deputy  -  Tahsildar, 
Sub  -  Registrar,  Assistant 
Superintendent  and  In- 
spector of  Police,  Assistant 
Commissioner  of  Salt  and 
Abkari,  Costoins  Superin- 
tendent, and  the  Port 
Officer,  who  is  also  the 
Superintendent  of  Pearl 
Fisheries.  The  Bank  of 
Madras  and  National  Bank 
of  India  have  branches,  and 
British  India  and  Asiatic 
Steam  Navigation  Com- 
panies, Agencies  in  the 
town. 

Missions,  Churches,  etc: 
The  Society  for  the  Propa- 
gation of  the  Gospel  main- 
tains a  training  school,  and 
a  College  named  after  Uk 
late  Bishop  Caldwell. 
Within  easy  reach  of  the 
station  are  a  Protestant 
and  two  Roman  Catholic 
Churches.  The  native 
fishing  community  profes-i 
Christianity  to  a  large  ex- 
tent, and  are  almost  entirely 
Roman  Catholics. 

Club:  A  Club  for  Euro- 
peans is  situated  on  the 
sea  front. 


U. 

tJDAYAGIRI  OAVES,  R.H.. 

286. 
UDAIPUR.    See  Oodeypore. 
UDA  POTANA,  462. 
UDVADA,  105. 
UJJAIN,  D.B.,  81. 
ULUBARIA,  53. 
ULWAR.     See  Alwar. 
UMARIA,  36. 
UMBALLA  (R.),  D.B.,  190. 
Hotels:     Lawrence's    H., 

Lumley's   H.,   Sirhind    H. ; 

all  near  the  rly.  sta. 
Agents:   R.    Norton  and 

Co.  undertake  the  clearing 


INDEX    AND    DIRECTORY 


485 


and  forwarding  of  goods  be- 
tween Uniballa,  Simla,  Ka- 
sauli,  etc. 

Olub :  Sirhind  C. 
Golf  Club. 

UMERKOTE,  230. 

UNDAVILU,  359. 

UN.JALUR,  387. 

UNJHA,  119. 

UNKARJI,  D.B.,  79. 

URI,  D.B.,  good,  217. 

URIA,  D.B.,  120. 


V. 

VADNAGAR,  118. 

VALABHIPUR,  155. 

VANKANBR,  165. 

VAVUNIYA-VILANKULAM, 
R.H.  fair,  458. 

VEHAR-LAKE,  22. 

VBLLORE,  374. 

VERAWAL,  160. 

Travellers  may  find  it  con- 
venient to  get  permission 
from  the  station-master  to 
retain  their  first-class  rly. 
carriage  at  the  sta.,  and  to 
sleep  in  it  at  night. 

VERNAQ,  219. 

VIGITIPURA,  450. 

VIJAYANAGAR(Harapi),353, 
D.B.  at  Kamalapur.     See 
Hampi. 


VILLUPURAM  (R.),  394. 
D.B.  1  iJi.  from  rly.  sta. 

VIRAMGAM,  118, 152,  165. 
Waiting  Room  at  rly.  sta. 
Dharmsala    near    Great 
Tank,  well  furnished. 

VISHVAMITRI,  108. 

VISNAGAR,  118. 

VIZAGAPATAM,  D.B.,  352. 
Missions  :    L.    M.    Soc. ; 
R.  C.  Mission. 

VIZIANAGRAM,  352. 


W. 

WADHWAN  (R.),  152. 
D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 

WADI,  333. 
R.  and  beds. 

WAH,  212. 
WAI,  292. 

D.B.,  good. 

On  side  nearest  Mahabal- 
eshwar  Hill. 

WALAH,  155. 
WALTAIR  (R.),  352. 
WARAKGAL,  352. 
WARDHA,  D.B.,  74. 

Waiting   and    Refresh- 
ment Rooms  at  rly.  sta. 
WARGAON,  323. 
WARIYAPOLA,  R.H.,  444. 


WARORA,  D.B.,  74. 

WATHAR  (R.),  and  Waiting- 
Room  at  rly.  sta.,  292. 

Where  an  excellent  meal 
can  be  provided  for  pas- 
sengers bound  for  Mahabal- 
eshwar,  if  previous  notice 
be  given.  Tongas  can  be 
ordered  by  writing  to  the 
Mail  Contractor. 

WAZIRABAD  (R.),  D.B.,  208. 

WELIGAMA,  R.H.,  452. 

WEUMADU,  419. 

WELLINGTON,  389. 

WILSON'S  BUNGALOW, 447. 

WIRAWILA,  R.H.,  453. 

WULAR  LAKE,  217. 


YALA  RIVER,  R.H.,  462. 
YAMETHIN,  426. 
YANKINTAUNG,  429. 
YELLANDU,  359. 
YENA  FALLS,  294. 
YENANGYAUNG,  434. 
YEROAUD  (Sheyaroy  Hills), 
387.    See  Salem. 


ZAFARABAD,  252. 
ZIARAT,  235. 


Printed  by  R.  &  R.  Glabk,  Limited,  Edinbv/rgh.