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IvN<i     ao\Q,.\A- 


HARVARD  COLLEGE 
LIBRARY 


FROM  THE  UBHAKT  OF 

JAMES  HAUGHTON  WOODS 

INSTRUCTOR  AND  PROFESSOR  AT  HARVARD 
FROM  1900  TO  1935 


THE  GIFT  OF  mS  FAMILY 
1935 


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A  HANDBOOK 

TO 

INDIA 
BURMA  AND  CEYLON 


Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


T^  This  sign  in  the  text  eippended  to  a  name 
indicates  that  fwrther  infomuUion  relating  to  the 
subject  is  to  he  fomid  in  the  Index  and  Direq- 
TORY  at  the  etid  of  the  hook^ 


y  Google  / 


A 

HANDBOOK  FOR  TRAVELLERS 

IN 

INDIA 
BURMA  AND  CEYLON 

INCLUDING  THE 

PROVINCES  OF  BENGAL,  BOMBAY,  AND  MADRAS 

THE  PUNJAB,  NORTH-WEST  PROVINCES,  RAJPUTANA, 
CENTRAL  PROVINCES,  BiYSORE,  ETC. 

THE  NATIVE  STATES, 
ASSAM  AND  CASHMERE 


FOURTH  EDimON 

WITH   SEVENTY-FOUR  MAPS  AND  PLANS 


LONDON: 

JOHN   MURRAY,   ALBEMARLE   STREET 

CALCUTTA:    THACKER,   SPINK,   k  00. 

1901 


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Google 


Iry^    2.0lb.\'f 


HARVARD  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 

FROM  THE  LIBRARY  OF 

JAMES  HAUGHTON  WOODS 

1933 


^ 


.."?   V 


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EXTRACT  FROM  THE 

PKEFACE  TO  THE  FIBST  EDITION 

''Since  the  publication  of  the  Handbook  to  India,  in  four  volumes, 
time  and  events  have  effected  great  changes,  not  only  in  the 
country  itself,  but  also  in  the  facilities  for  reaching  it  from  all  parts 
of  the  world,  and  for  travelling  throughout  the  peninsula.  The 
public,  moreover,  are  yearly  becoming  better  aware  of  the  glorious 
field  which  in  India  is  opened  up  for  the  enjoyment  of  travel  and 
sport,  and  of  the  inexhaustible  opportunities  afforded  them  for  the 
study  of  an  engrossing  history,  an  interesting  nationality,  and  an  un- 
rivalled art,  as  displayed  not  only  in  architectural  monuments,  but 
also  in  native  industries  and  handicrafts.  On  this  account,  and  in 
consequence  of  the  yearly  increasing  tide  of  travellers  setting  towards 
India,  the  publisher  has  found  it  necessary  to  arrange  his  guide  in  an 
entirely  new  form.  It  has  been  to  a  great  extent  rewritten,  thoroughly 
revised,  and  condensed  into  one  handy  volume.  .  .  . 

"  The  accounts  of  most  places  described  in  this  book  have  been  revise 
on  the  spot,  and  in  this  revision  the  publisher  has  received  much  kind 
assistance  from  civil  servants  and  others  resident  in  different  parts  of 
India.  He  takes  this  opportunity  of  tendering  to  them  his  grateful 
thanks,  as  also  to  the  following  persons  who  have  assisted  him  in 
various  parts  of  the  book  :  Dr.  Burgess,  Dr.  Bradshaw,  LL.D.,  Mr.  H. 
Beauchamp,  Major  F.  Spratt,  RJL,  Mr.  R.  Clarke,  B.C.S.,  Mr.  J. 
Westlake,  Mr.  G.  Marsden,  Mr.  E.  A.  Smith,  Mr.  OttewiU  ;  particularly 
to  the  Hon.  Sir  Arthur  Gbrdon,  G.C.M.G.,  who,  with  exception  of  the 
description  of  Colombo  and  the  first  route,  has  written  the  whole 
of  the  account  of  Ceylon  from  his  own  personal  knowledge  and  wide 
experience  of  that  country ;  and  finally  to  Professor  Forrest,  Keeper 
of  the  Records  in  Calcutta,  through  whose  hands  the  whole  of  the 
proofe  of  *  India '  have  passed." 

Navemher  1892. 

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PREFACE 

TO  THE  THIED  EDITION  IN  ONE  VOLUME 

The  pnblisher  desires  to  express  his  sincere  thanks  to  the  following 
gentlemen,  from  whom  he  has  received  very  valuable  assistance  in  the 
preparation  of  this  Edition :  Mr.  H.  Beauchamp,  Mr.  B.  E.  Acklom, 
Mr.  G.  Marsden,  Sui^.  Lient.-Col.  Jonbert^  Mr.  Playford  Reynolds, 
and  Mr.  Basil  Lang ;  to  Lord  Stanmore,  who  has  revised  his  account 
of  Ceylon  ;  and  finally  to  Mr.  Norwood  Young  for  the  trouble  he  has 
taken  as  Editor  in  the  revision  of  the  present  Edition. 

Besides  a  thorough  general  revision,  this  Edition  has  much  addi- 
tional information  in  the  Introduction  as  to  the  people  of  India. 
Short  accounts  are  given  of  the  Mohammedan,  Hindu,  and  Buddhist 
religions,  supplemented  hj  illustrations  of  Buddha  and  the  chief 
Hindu  ^ods ;  Indian  architecture,  arts,  and  irrigation  are  described ; 
and  a  snort  precis  given  of  the  chief  events  of  the  Mutiny,  with  a 
map  showing  the  (Sstribution  of  British  and  Native  troops  in  May 
18a7.  But  tor  the  faulty  situation  of  the  British  troops,  tne  Mutiny 
would  never  have  become  serious ;  yet  in  no  previous  account  has  a 
map  been  issued  to  illustrate  this  vital  point.  The  chronology  has 
been  entirely  rewritten ;  and  maps  of  rainfall,  temperature,  and  land 
products  have  been  added. 

The  spelling  of  Indian  names  is  in  a  state  of  confusion  which  calls 
loudly  for  reform.  The  official  spelling  suggests  a  false  pronuncia- 
tion, and  has  been  rejected  by  the  public.  The  railway  companies, 
from  whom  much  was  hoped,  refuse  to  accept  each  other's  spellings, 
and  do  not  adhere  to  one,  two,  or  even  three  separate  spelling  of  me 
names  of  their  own  stations.  There  are  only  three  towns  in  India 
with  a  fixed  spelling — Bombay,  Calcutta,  and  Madras.  Oodeypore, 
officially  Udaipur,  has  seventy-two  variations.  In  this  Handbook  the 
most  usual  spelling  is  aimed  at. 

The  pubfisher,  aware  that  it  is  impossible  to  ensure  perfection  in 
any  guide-book,  however  carefully  prepared,  hopes  that  where  in- 
accuracies are  found  the  indulgent  tourist  will  kindly  point  them  out 
to  him,  with  a  view  to  their  correction  on  the  first  opportunity.  Any 
such  acceptable  communications  may  be  addressed  to  Mr.  Murray, 
50  Albemarle  Street^  London,  W. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  FOUETH  EDITION 

This  Edition  is  practically  a  reprint  of  the  third  Edition,  the  only 
alterations  being  such  corrections  and  additions  as  were  necessary  to 
bring  it  quite  up  to  date.  The  publisher  desires  to  thank  Dr.  James 
Burgess,  of  Edinburgh,  for  the  valuable  assistance  he  has  given  in  this 
respect. 

Jtmuary  1901. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


CONTENTS 


PAGE 

List  op  Routes  through  India,  Burma,  and  Ceylon      .           .      viii-x 

List  of  Maps  aio)  Plans     .... 

xi 

Some  Circular  Tours 

xiii 

Introduotoey  Inpormation— 

EnglislL  Language 

XV 

Travelling  Servants 

XV 

Railways  . 

XV 

Season  for  Visit  to  India 

xvi 

Expenses . 

xvii 

Clothing  . 

xvii 

Bedding  .... 

xviii 

Hotels      . 

xix 

Dak  Bungalows  (India)    . 

xix 

Rest- Houses  (Ceylon) 

xix 

Food 

xix 

Sport 

XX 

Hints  for  Camping 

XX 

Books 

xxi 

Preservation  of  Ancient  Monuments 

xxii 

Voyage  from  England  to  Bombay 

xxiii 

People  of  India — Mohammedans 

xliv 

Hindus 

xlix 

Buddhists 

Iv 

Sikhs   .... 

Ivii 

Parsis 

lix 

Architecture         ..... 

Ix 

Arts          ... 

Ixiv 

Irrigation             .... 

Ixix 

The  Mutiny  of  1857 

Ixx 

Remarkable  Events  connecting  India  with  Euro 

pe 

Ixxix 

Some  Native  Terms 

Ixxxv 

A  few  Hindu  Words        .            .            . 

Ixxxvii 

Indian  Coinage    .... 

Ixxxix 

Abbreviations  used  in  this  book  . 

Ixxxix 

Ikdkx  and  Directory 

465 

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Tour  H— BOMBA.V  and  back, 

via     Caucxjt,     Madura, 

Madras,  etc. 

Bombay            End  of  Rte.  1. 

Steamer  to 

Calicut  (Rail)      .       R 

tc.  28. 

Brode  .       .       . 

,    30. 

Madura        .       . 

,    81. 

Trichinopoly 

,    31. 

Tai^jore 

,    81. 

Chiugleput  . 

.    81. 

Madras        .       . 

,    22. 

Poona  . 

,    22. 

Kalyan 

22. 

Bombay 

Udays.! 

Tour  I— Bombay  and  back, 

via  JUBBDLPORE,  CALCUTTA, 

Benares,  Delhi,  Baroda, 
etc. 

Bombay  to  Delhi,  as  in  Tour  A. 
Delhi  to  Bombay,    „      „    E. 

29  days.l 

Tour  K— Colombo  to  Bombay. 

Colombo  Rte.  33. 

Steamer  to 
Tuticorin  (Rail)  „    28. 

Madura  (Rte.  31)  to  Bombay, 

as  in  Tour  H. 
Bombay  to  Calcutta  and  Delhi , 

as  in  Tour  A. 
Delhi  to  Bombay,  as  in  Tour  B. 

45  days.  I 


CIRCULAR  TOURS 

Tour  L— CoxiOMao  to  Bombay, 
via  Calicut,  Madras,  Cal- 

0X7TTA,  DBLHI,  JUBBULPORK. 

Colombo   to   Madura,  as  in 

TourK. 
Madura  to  Madras,  as  in  Tour 

H. 
Madras  to  Calcutta  (Daijeel- 

ing,  Rte.  20),  as  in  Tour  E. 
Calcutta  to  Delhi,as  in  Tour  E. 
Alwar    .  .       Rte.  6. 

Agra  to  Bombay  (reversed),  as 

m  Tour  A. 

49  days.i 

Tour  M— Colombo  to  Bom- 
bay, via  Calicut,  Madras, 
Bombay,  Allahabad,  Ben- 
ares, Delhi,  Baroda. 

Colombo  to  Calicut,  as  in  Tour 

K. 
Calicut  to  Bombay,  as  in  Tour 

H. 
Bombay  to  Delhi,  as  in  Tour 

A. 
Delhi  to  Bombay  as  in  Tour 

48  days.! 

Tour  N— Colombo  to  Bombay, 
via  Calicut,  Madras,  Bom- 
bay, Karachi,  Lahore. 
Calodti'a,  Allahabad,  and 
Bombay. 

Colombo  to  Bombay,  as  in 
Tour  H. 


Bombay  to  Karachi/  N  ( 
Tour  a.  .•-vJi  ^ 

Karachi  to  Calcutt»(rr-xiS- 
as  in  Tour  A. 

Calcutta  to  Bombaj^ 
Tour  A. 

58  days. 

Detour  to  Hyderabt  ^ 

can),  Rte.  25,  can  bei 

Tours  C.D.B.P.H.F 
Detour    to  _ 

Mysore,   Rte.   29,^^ 

joined  to  Tours  CD! 

K.L.M.N.  ^ 

Detour  to  the  Nilgir . 

30,  can  be  joined  * 

D.E.H.K.L.M.N. 
Detour  to  Laliore, 

can   be  joined    to 

C.D.E.I.K.L.M.       

Detour  to  Quetta  (fie 

dahar),  Rte.  15,  can  b 

to  Tours  A.B. G.N. 
Detour  to  Peshaww 

18,  can  be  joined  U 

A.B.G.N. 
Detour  to  Gkiya,  Rta,A  ^t  o ;; 

be  joined  to  Tours     . 

E.I.K.L.M.  I 

Detour  to  Gwallor,  i   | 

can  be  joined  to  Tott 

C.D.E.G.I.K.L.M.N?i 
Detour  to  Bljapur,  ^  ' 

can  be  joined  to  Tou  I 

B.F.H.K.L.M.N.    ^^ 
Detour  to  Assam  an» 

mahputra  River,  Bit 

and  20b. 


^  These  figures  represent  the  shortest  limit  of  days  given  by  Messrs.  T.  Cook  &  i 
performing  the  journey 


*a\ 


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INTEODUCTOKY    INFOKMATION 


English  Languagb 

A  TRIP  to  India  is  no  longer  a  formidable  journey  or  one  that 
requires  very  special  preparation.  English  is  spoken  in  all  the  hotels 
(but  not  in  the  dak  bungalows) ;  and  European  shops  have  good 
.utides  for  all  ordinary  requirements,  with  attendants  who  speak 
English. 

Travelling  Servants 

A  good  travelling  servant,  a  native  who  can  speak  English,  is  indis- 
pensable, but  should  on  no  account  be  engaged  without  a  good  personal 
character  or  the  recommendation  of  a  trustworthy  agent.  Such  a 
servant  is  necessary  not  only  to  wait  on  his  master  at  hotels,  dak 
bungalows,  and  even  in  private  houses,  where  without  him  he  would 
be  but  poorly  served ;  but  in  a  hundred  different  ways  when  travelling 
by  rail  or  otherwise,  and  as  an  interpreter  and  go-between  when  dealing 
with  natives.  Having  ascertained  beforehand  from  his  agent  the  fair 
wages  which  his  servant  ought  to  be  paid,  the  master  should  take  care 
to  come  to  some  definite  arrangement  with  him  before  engaging  him. 
It  is  advisable  to  have  an  agreement  in  writing.  If  the  servant 
proves  satisfactory,  it  is  the  custom  to  make  him  a  small  present  before 
parting  with  him.  The  same  remarks  apply  to  a  lady's  ayah.  Madras 
ayahs  though  expensive  are  considered  the  best  II'  the  traveller  has 
friends  "  up  country,"  it  is  well  to  write  beforehand  and  ask  them  to 
engage  a  servant  for  him,  and  to  send  him  to  meet  his  master  at  the 
port  of  arrival.  "  Up-country  "  servants  are  often  cheaper  and  more 
reliable  than  those  to  be  met  with  on  the  coast. 

Railways 

In  Bombay,  the  Indian  A.B.G,  Guide  and  the  Indicm  Railwa/y 
Travellers'  Guide,  and  in  Calcutta,  Newman's  Indicm  BradshaWy  give 
BiapB,  the  railway  routes  for  all  India,  and  steamer  routea  For  rail- 
way purposes  the  hours  are  counted  up  to  24,  as  in  Italy  *  thus  20.12 

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XVi  RAILWAYS — SEASON  India 

is  8.12  P.M.,  and  so  on.     Eailway  time  tlirougliout  India  is  Madras i 
time.     The  difference  is  as  follows  : — 


Karachi  time  is  52  min.  behind  railway  time 

Mooltan 

,      36 

Lahore 

1      23          ,,                        ,, 

Delhi 

1            13                    M                                               |« 

Agra 
Allahabad 

,      10 

,        7  min.  before  railway  time. 

Calcutta 

>      33          ,,                        „ 

Chittagong 

»      46          „                        „ 

At  most  of  the  larger  towns  there  are  several  stations.  The  traveller 
should  not,  as  a  rule,  book  for  the  "city,"  but  the  "cantonment" 
station.  Before  booking  he  should  note  what  station  is  mentioned  in 
the  Handbook.  The  Eailway  Companies  in  India  do  much  for  the 
comfort  of  travellers.  Every  1st  and  2nd  class  compartment  is  pro- 
vided with  a  lavatory,  and  the  seats,  which  are  unusually  deep,  are  so 
arranged  as  to  form  couches  at  night,  but  are  not  furnished  with 
bedding  or  pillows.  There  are  refreshment  rooms  at  frequent 
intervals,  and  some  of  them  are  very  well  managed  and  supplied  ; 
but  when  travellers  intend  to  make  use  of  them  for  dinner  or 
otherwise  they  should  signify  their  intention  to  the  guard  of  the 
train  beforehand  and  he  will  telegraph  (free  of  charge)  to  have 
everything  in  readiness  at  the  station  indicated  on  the  arrival 
of  the  train.  The  Station-masters  are  particularly  civil  and  obliging, 
and,  as  a  rule,  are  most  useful  to  travellers  in  providing  ponies, 
conveyances,  or  accommodation  at  out-of-the-way  stations  if  notice 
is  given  them  beforehand ;  they  will  also  receive  letters  addressed 
to  their  care, — this  is  often  a  convenience  to  travellers.  One 
drawback  to  travelling  in  India  is  that  baggage  is  occasionally 
transhipped  from  one  train  to  another — e.g,  at  a  junction  or  from  an 
express  to  a  slow  train — in  which  case  a  traveller  may  arrive  at  his 
destination  and  find  that  his  luggage  wiU  not  reach  him  for  some 
hours.  Every  inquiry,  therefore,  should  be  made  beforehand  as  tc 
the  stations  where  luggage  is  likely  to  be  transhipped,  and  the 
traveller  should  make  a  point  of  ascertaining  that  it  is  deposited  in 
the  same  train  with  him.  At  every  station  carriages  of  some  sort 
await  the  arrival  of  the  trains. 

Season  for  Visit  to  India 

The  season  for  a  pleasant  visit  to  the  plains  of  India  lies  between 
16th  November  and  10th  March,  but  in  the  Punjab  these  dates  may 
be  slightly  extended  ;  then,  however,  the  heat  will  be  found  trying 
at  the  ports  of  arrival  and  departure.  October  and  April  are  as  trying 
months  as  any  in  the  year,  much  more  so  than  July,  August,  and 
September,  when  rain  cools  the  atmosphere. 

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Intfod,  IBXPSNSIBS — OLOTHma  xvii 

Expenses 

Owing  to  the  depreciation  of  the  rupee,  the  traveller  whose  finances 
are  npoii  a  gold  basis  will  find  India  a  cheap  country.  The  hotels 
charge  5  to  7  rupees  a  day  for  board  and  lodging.  As  walking  in 
the  heat  of  the  day  is  better  avoided,  even  in  the  cold  weather, 
carriages  have  to  be  used  in  order  to  visit  the  various  objects  of 
interest  The  charge  for  a  day  varies  from  6  to  10  rupees  according 
to  the  locality,  and  the  number  of  horses  required.  In  a  hotel  a 
small  gratuity  may  be  given  to  the  water-carrier  ("  bhisti ").  Guests 
at  private  houses  generally  fee  the  chief  attendants.  The  railway 
changes  are  moderate.  The  traveller  starting  on  a  journey  does  well  to 
provide  himself  with  a  sufficiency  of  small  change. 

Clothing 

Not  very  long  ago  it  was  thought  essential  to  have  a  special  outfit 
prepared  for  a  journey  to  India.     This  is  scarcely  the  case  now. 

For  the  Voyage  a  few  warm  clothes  for  the  northern  part 
and  thin  ones  for  the  Eed  Sea  and  Arabian  Sea  are  required.  As 
regards  the  lighter  clothes,  a  man  will  find  it  convenient  to  have  a 
very  thin  suit  of  cloth  or  grey  flannel  for  day,  and  a  thin  black  coat 
for  dinner.     It  is  not  necessary  to  dress  for  dinner  on  board  ship. 

A  lady  cannot  do  better  than  provide  herself  with  thin  skirts  of 
tussore-silk  or  some  such  materisd,  and  thin  flannel  or  silk  shirts. 
Shoes  with  indisrrubber  soles  are  the  best  for  the  deck,  as  they  afford 
good  foothold  when  the  vessel  is  unsteady. 

On  Baggage-days,  which  occur  once  a  week,  boxes  marked  wanted  on 
voyage  may  be  brought  up  from  the  hold,  and  suitable  clothes  taken 
out  or  stowed  away  according  to  the  temperature  and  weather. 

For  a  winter  tour  in  the  plains  of  India,  a  traveller  requires 
similar  clothing  to  that  which  he  would  wear  in  the  spring  or  autumn 
in  England,  but  in  addition  he  must  take  very  warm  winter  wraps. 
A  man  should  have  a  light  overcoat  in  which  he  can  ride,  and  a  warm 
long  ukter  for  night  travelling  or  in  the  early  morning.  A  lady,  be- 
sides a  jacket  and  shawl,  should  have  a  very  thin  dust-cloak,  and  a  loose 
warm  doak  to  wear  in  a  long  drive  before  the  sun  rises,  or  to  sleep 
in  at  night  when  roughing  it.  Tourists  should  remember  that  the 
evening  dews  are  so  heavy  as  to  absolutely  wet  the  outer  garment,  the 
nights  and  mornings  are  quite  cold,  and  yet  the  middle  of  the  day  is 
always  warm,  sometimes  very  hot,  so  that  the  secret  of  dressing  is  to 
begin  the  day  in  things  that  can  be  thrown  off  as  the  heat  increasea 

In  Bombay  and  Calcutta,  and,  in  fact,  all  along  the  coast  and 
ia  the  south  of  the  peninsula,  much  thinner  clothing  is  required. 
Cool  linen  suits  for  men,  and  very  thin  dresses  for  ladies,  also  Khakee 
riding  and  shooting-suits,  can  be  got  cheaper  and  better  in  India  than 
iM.  Ingland,  and  a  native  tailor  will  make  a  very  satisfactory  suit 


Xviii  CliOTHING — BEDDING 

from  an  Englisli  pattern.  Linen  and  underclotliing  for  at  leai^ 
weeks  should  be  taken, — with  less  the  traveller  on  arrival  i 
inconvenienced,  or  even  detained  until  his  board -ship  clotl 
washed,  The  Indian  washermen,  though  not  as  bad  as  they  ^ 
be,  destroy  things  rather  rapidly.  Winter  clothing  will  be  ne 
if  it  is  intended  to  visit  the  hill -stations.  Flannel  or  -^ 
underclothing  and  sleeping  garments  and  a  flannel  "  Kumniurj 
(a  strip  of  flannel  3  yds.  long  and  1  ft.  wide  worn  round  the  A 
to  be  worn  at  any  rate  at  night,  are  strongly  reconmiended.         ^ 

The  hospitality  of  India  involves  a  considerable  amount  of  ? 
out,  and  therefore  a  lady,  unless  she  intends  to  eschew  society,  ^: 
be  provided  with  several  evening  dresses.  Riding-breeches  or  t^ 
for  men,  and  riding-habits  for  ladies  should  not  be  forgotten. 

A  good  sun-hat  is  an  essential     The  Terai  hat  (two  soft  fel 
fitting  one  over  the  other)  might  suffice  for  the  coolest  mont^ 
even  in  cold  weather  the  midday  sun  in  India  is  dangerous,  aif 
therefore  advisable  to  wear  a  cork  or  pith  helmet,  which  is  lighd 
better  ventilated,  and  affords  better  protection  from  the  sun  tl 
Terai,  and  is  indispensable  in  real  hot  weather.     Many  London  , 
have  a  large  choice  of  sun-hats  and  helmets  for  ladies  as  well 
The  Sola  or  pith  hats  are  very  light,  but  brittle  and  soon  spoilt  b^ 
they  can  be  bought  in  India  very  cheaply.     A  thick  white 
the  umbrella  is  also  a  necessary,  especially  for  a  lady,  and  a  str 
for  the  cool  hours  of  the  morning  and  evening  will  be  found  ; 
convenience. 

Travellers  in  Ceylon  will  seldom  require  any  but  the  thin 
clothing,  except  in  the  mountains,  where  the  temperature  hLS. 
proportionately  cooler  as  he  ascends.  At  Kandy  a  light  overcoi^ 
at  Nuwara  Eliya  warm  wraps  and  underclothing,  are  necessary.  ^ 

Bedding  i^| 

Every  traveller  who  contemplates  a  tour  must  on  arrival  in  ^^ 
provide  himself  with  some  bedding,  which  he  should  take  wit||j 
everywhere,  even  when  on  a  visit  to  friends,  and  should  have  ife|l| 
at  hand  on  a  railway  journey.  Except  at  the  best  hotels,^) 
is  either  no  bedding  at  all  or  there  is  the  chance  of  its  V^ 
dirty.  The  minimum  equipment  is  a  pillow  and  two  cotton  i»^  J* 
quilts  (Razais\  one  to  sleep  on,  the  other  as  a  coverlet ;  or  aL|^ 
rami  and  a  couple  of  warm  blankets.  The  ready-made  oni^ 
usually  very  thin,  but  they  can  be  got  to  order  of  any  thid  V 
To  these  should  be  added  a  pillow  case,  cheap  calico  sheets,  $f\":^^ 
blanket  A  waterproof  cover  to  wrap  the  bedding  in  muA  1 1 
be  omitted,  with  a  pocket  to  contain  pyjamas,  etc.,  or  thf  jN 
time  the  bedding  is  carried  any  distance  by  a  cooly  or  packl  ^ 
a  pony  it  may  be  very  much  dirtied      A  waterproof  sheet  is  ill 

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Iflbrod.  HOTELS — DAK  BUKQALOWS — ^FOOB  xix 

valuable  addition  to  th(e  bedding,  but  cannot  be  called  an  absolute 
necessity  for  a  short  tour.  Without  such  a  modest  supply  of  covering 
as  is  here  indicated,  a  traveller  may  at  any  time  have  to  spend  a  night 
shiyering  in  the  cold,  which  would  probably  result  in  an  attack  of 
ague.  An  india-rubber  hot-water  bottle  takes  up  very  little  room, 
and  will  often  be  found  very  handy.  Some  persons  carry  their  own 
camp-bed,  which  they  can  rely  upon  being  always  clean. 

Hotels 

He  who  expects  to  find  good  hotels  in  India,  up  to  the  European 
standard  of  excellence,  will  be  disappointed.  Owing  to  the  fact  that 
the  nominal  proprietor  is  often  a  tenant  for  a  short  term,  the  character 
of  a  hotel  may  change  very  suddenly.  At  all  the  chief  towns  large 
aiiy  rooms  can  be  procured,  but  the  traveller  will  not  be  properly 
waited  upon  tmless  he  brings  a  servant  of  his  own  with  him.  He 
should  give  notice  beforehand  of  his  intended  arrival,  as  the  hotels 
are  often  crowded  in  the  tourist  season.  Most  of  the  clubs  admit 
reconmiended  visitors  as  honorary  members.  A  club  which  has  sleep- 
ing accommodation  is  far  more  comfortable  than  a  hotel 

Dak  Bungalows 

With  regard  to  dak  bungalows  (travellers'  rest-houses  established 
by  Qovemment),  it  is  advisable  to  make  some  inquiries  beforehand 
as  to  their  accommodation.  In  some  cases  the  keeper  in  chaige 
has  facilities  for  procuring  food,  in  others  the  traveller  has  to  bring 
provisions  with  him,  and  in  some  D.Bs.  there  are  neither  servants 
nor  provisions.  The  rooms  have  an  adjoining  bathroom,  and  are 
usually  famished  with  bedstead,  wash-stand,  table  and  chairs,  and 
crockery  and  lights  are  supplied.  They  cannot  be  retained  beforehand 
— the  first  comer  has  the  preference.  After  occupying  a  D.B.  for 
twenty-four  hours  the  traveller  must  give  place,  if  necessary,  to  the 
next  comer. 

Rest-Housbs 

The  Rest-House  of  Ceylon  is  ni^re  like  an  hotel  than  the  Dak 
Bungalow  in  India,  in  that  it  is  more  frequently  furnished  with 
bed^g  and  linen,  and  food  is  generally  provided. 

Food 

As  a  rule,  the  food  in  India  is  not  good.  The  meat,  with  ex- 
ception of  bullock  hump,  is  lean  and  tough,  and  the  fowls  are 
skinny  and  smalL  Bread  is  fairly  good;  but  milk  is  dangerous. 
Aerated  water  should  be  preferred  to  plain  water,  unless  the 
latter  has  passed  through  a  filter  of  the  best  pattern,  which  has 
ten  kept  thoroughly  dean.    If  this  cannot  be  ensured  the  water 

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xi  Bifota^ — kmrs  v6ik  oJdivis^s  tniin 

should  be  boikd.  Water  £tom  a  public  filter  should  not  be  touched. 
If  the  traveller  leaves  the  beaten  track  he  must  have  a  Tiffin-basket, 
which  should  contain  knives  and  forks  and  other  simple  fittings,  and 
should  always  be  kept  furnished  with  potted  meats,  biscuits,  some 
good  spirit,  and  soda-water,  which  is  good  and  cheap  in  India ;  added 
to  this  an  Etna  will  be  found  a  great  convenience. 

Sport 

Although  no  regular  attempt  is  here  made  to  give  advice  to  sports- 
men, a  few  sporting  localities  have  been  incidentally  indicated  in  the 
routes.  The  equipment  for  these  amusements  varies  from  day  to  day, 
and  each  man  must  best  know  his  own  wants.  Large-game  shooting  is 
very  expensive  and  takes  time  ;  moreover,  it  should  not  be  attempted 
except  in  company  with  a  good  shikari  and  with  the  assistance  of 
persons  of  local  importance.  Otherwise  it  would  probably  involve 
a  mere  waste  of  time  and  useless  trial  of  patience. 

Small -game  shooting,  wild -fowl,  etc.,  with  an  occasional  shot  at 
an  antelope,  is  an  easier  matter,  and  will  afford  excellent  sport  It 
can  be  got  from  Nov.  till  Feb.,  often  at  very  small  cost,  by  spending  a 
night  or  two  at  some  wayside  railway  station  or  near  some,  remote 
ruined  city.  Near  cantonments  the  ground  is  always  too  much  shot 
over  to  afford  good  sport.  Firearms  are  subject  to  a  heavy  duty  when 
brought  into  the  country. 

Hints  for  Camping 

Travellers  who  intend  to  leave  the  beaten  track  for  the  purpose 
of  visiting  remote  or  ruined  cities,  or  with  the  intention  of  shooting, 
should  take  a  small  tent  or  two  with  them.  A  good  servant  will  be 
able  to  help  his  master  in  many  details  of  camp  requirements.  Trans- 
port, in  the  shape  of  camels,  carts,  baggage-ponies,  or  bearers,  can  be 
got  in  any  station,  and  in  the  larger  places  riding  ponies  and  carts  for 
hire  can  be  obtained. 

Simple  requirements  for  camp  consist  in — Tent  (Cabul  tent,  80  lbs. 
complete)  for  self,  and,  if  cold,  tent  for  servants.  Camp-bed  with 
solid  side  poles  {i.e.  not  in  pieces  as  in  the  home-made  camp-beds), 
table,  and  chair.  Bath  (india-rubber  flat  bath)  and  a  board  to  stand 
on ;  otherwise  tubbing  can  be  done  by  means  of  native  pots  of  water 
poured  over  head.  Fresh  native  pots  can  be  obtained  at  any  village  ; 
the  old  ones  left  behind  on  moving  camp.  A  tent  ("  kanaut  '*)  to  use 
as  a  bath-room.  A  few  iron  tent-pegs  (and  wooden  ones  for  soft 
ground),  a  mallet  Carpet  for  tent.  Washing  basin  ("  chilumchee  ") 
and  stand.  Hooks  to  strap  on  tent-pole  to  hang  clothes  on,  etc 
Cooking-pots  ("  degchi  '*) ;  a  fry-pan.  A  few  knives,  forks,  and  spoons, 
a  few  iron  plates,  cup  and  saucer,  mustard,  pepper,  and  salt  pots,  an 
iron  dish  or  two.     A  second  tent  (small)  is  jdways  useful  to  cook  in,  if 

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Mnd,  HINTS  FOR  CAMPINQ — BOOKS  XXi 

nining.  Servants  required  in  camp  are — a  boy  to  wait,  a  cook,  a 
irater- carrier  ("  bliisti '*),  grooms  for  horses,  and  camel  or  cart  men. 
All  food  for  self,  except  milk  and  fresh  meat,  must  be  taken  from 
station.  Food  for  servants,  milk  and  meat  (goat  or  sheep),  can  be  got 
in  any  but  the  poorest  villages.  For  clothes  take  blankets,  sheets 
(luxury),  etc.  Aii  Indian  shooting  suit.  Rough  boots  and  gaiters. 
Jerseys.  A  few  shirts,  pyjamas,  handkerchiefs.  A  light  flannel  suit 
or  two  and  slippers  for  camp.  One  good  sun-hat  for  shooting  in,  a 
second  sun-hat  and  a  cap  for  camp  wear.  Take  soap,  towels,  sponge, 
shaving-glass,  mosquito-net  and  sticks  for  it,  in  case  of  mosquitoes 
giving  much  trouble  at  night  (If  ladies  are  in  the  party,  more 
servants,  tents,  food,  and  luxuries  will  probably  be  required.) 

Kemember  to  have  all  boxes  and  carpet  shifted  every,  morning  if 
white  ants  are  about 

For  arms — rthe  plainer  the  better — 1  central  fire  D.B.  hammer 
12-bore  gun;  1  C.F.IXB.  express  rifle,  500  bore ;  12 -bore  cartridges, 
empty,  Curtis  and  Harvey's  No.  6  powder  can  be  got  in  any  ordinary 
station.  Shot  should  be  got  at  Bombay,  as  up-country  it  is  generally 
mixed. 

For  medicine,  plenty  of  quinine  in  2  or  4  grain  "  tabloids  "  or  pills 
(to  be  taken  before  or  after  food  whenever  a  chill  is  felt),  1  bottle 
chlorodyne,  2  boxes  of  Cockle's  pills.  If  not  used  by  oneself,  they 
are  useful  to  give  to  siervants  or  villagers. 

Books 

'  I%e  Rise  and  Expansion  of  the  British  Dominion  in  Indiay  by  Sir 
Alfred  tiyall  (John  Murray),  and  A  Brief  History  of  the  Indian  Peoples, 
by  Sir  W.  W.  Hunter  (Clarendon  Press),  are  small,  handy  volumes 
whicli  every  traveller  should  possess.  The  following  are  also  recom- 
mended : — The  Indian  Empire,  by  Sir  W.  W.  Hunter  (Triibner  &  Co.) ; 
History  of  Indian  and  Eastern  Architecture,  by  James  Fergusson  (John 
Murray)  ;  A  Glossary  of  Anglo-Indian  Words  and  Phrases,  by  Sir  Henry 
Yule  and  Arthur  C.  BumeU  (John  Murray) ;  The  Coiwersion  of  India, 
by  Dr.  George  Smith  (John  Murray) ;  Asiatic  Studies,  by  Sir  Alfred 
LyaQ  ;  Industrial  Art$  of  India,  by  Sir  George  Birdwood  (Chapman) ; 
A  Start  History  of  India,  by  Talboys  Wheeler ;  A  History  of  the  Indian 
Mniiny,  by  Holmes ;  Ancient  and  Medicevcd  India,  by  Mrs.  Manning  ; 
Indian  Wisdom,  by  Sir  Monier  Williamfl  ;  Sdta,  Tara,  Tippoo  Sultaun, 
Mid  A  J^ohle  Qae&n,  by  Meadows  Taylor;  Bemier's  Travels,  1656-1668 
(Constable's  Oriental  Miscellany,  vol.  i) ;  and  a  simple  guide  to  the 
hagoBgey  How  to  Speak  Hindustani,  by  £.  Bogers,  Is.  (Allen  &  Co.) 

Modem  writers  on  Cashmere  are  Walter  Lawrence,  Dr.  W.  T. 
ghmJiftj  Captain  Bates,  Dr.  T.  Ince,  and  Mr.  Drew.  Boute  maps 
hsvo  been  published  by  Mr.  John  Collett  and  Captain  Montgomerie. 

^i^Ti^^Tig  visitors  to  Ceylon  are  strongly  recommended  to  study 


>«T 


XXii  ANCIENT  MONUMENTS  ^^-^ 

the  account  of  that  island  by  Sir  J.  Emerson  Tennent,  K.C.S.,  ^O^lJ 
2  vols.,  8vo  (Longman),  1859.  It  has  never  yet  been  sup  7^^ 
Sir  Monier  Williams's  Buddhism^  1  voL,  Bvo  (Murray),  1889.   |„J^   , 

Army  and  Civil  Lists  and  a  useful  Postal  guide  are  to  be  f 
all  Clubs.    For  books  on  Burma,  see  p.  418.  ?>^ 

The  Pbesebvation  of  Ancient  Monuments 

The  striking  architectural  monuments  of  India — Hindu, 
and  Mohammedan — ^must  largely  attract  the  attention  of  the 
and  the  means,  or  rather  want  of  means,  taken  for  their  presi 
must  be  a  subject  of  frequent  remark.     Partly  under  outside 
GU>vemment  has  made  various  attempts  at  conservation,  bi 
carried  out  through  the  engineering  staff  of  the  Public  Works 
ment, — ^the  officers  of  which  have  not  necessarily  any  intimate  km 
of  architecture, — their  work  has  too  frequently  been  seriously  ii 
to  the  monuments  to  be  repaired.      Lamentable  examples 
mischievous  policy  are  numerous.      What  has  been  wantec 
guidance  of  the  trained  architect  who  would  strictly  confine 
the  work  of  preservaHon  and  eschew  everything  of  the  nature  ( 
ation,  which  some  engineers  have  been  too  fond  ot     Were  tl 
in  connection  with  the  Archaeological  Survey,  the  monuments 
might  be  rationally  conserved  at  a  minimum  of  outlay.     The 
ment  of  India  carried  on  for  many  years  an  Archseological  Sui 
gether  dissociated  from  any  conservation  of  the  architectural  moi 
with  which  it  concerned  itself  little,  if  at  all,  but  rather 
identification  of  ancient  sites,  coins,  dates,  and  relics  of  long- 
times,  interesting  chiefly  to  the  savant.     A  few  years  ago 
in  this  respect  was  attempted,  and  a  careful  survey  of  the  mom 
remains  at  Jaunpur,  Badaun,  Fatehpur-Sikri,  etc.,  was  begun 
surveys  were  again  reduced  in  1889,  and  only  one  architecturq 
ant  and  a  few  native  draughtsmen  were  retained  in  Upper  Indi&j 
this  department  officered  by  competent  architects  in  the  Punjab, 
and  Bajputana,   who   could   authoritatively   advise    Qovemn 
questions  of  conservation,  the   safety  of  the  monuments  w 
insured,  as  well  as  the  survey.     In  Southern  and  Western  Ind| 
except  Bijapur,  which  seems  to  have  been  wholly  handed  ovei 
P.  W.  engineer,  the  monuments   have   generally  been  treat« 
consideration,  but  many  have  been  too  much  neglected. 


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MtocL  ENGLAND  TO  GIBRALTAR  xxiit 

VOYAGE  FROM  ENGLAND  TO  GIBRALTAR,  MALTA,  PORT 
SAID,  THROUGH  THE  SUEZ  CANAL  AND  RED  SEA 
TO  ADEN  AND  BOMBAY. 

The  comfort  of  the  voyage  depends  much  on  the  choice  of  the  ship, 
and  the  cabin. ^  The  largest  ships,  as  having  less  motion  and  more 
room  on  deck,  are  usually  preferable  to  smaller  ones.  The  cabin 
should  be  a3  near  the  centre  of  the  ship  as  possible.  In  going  through 
the  Red  Sea  to  India  the  cabins  on  the  port  side  are  the  best,  as  they 
do  not  get  heated  by  the  afternoon  sun.  On  the  return  voyage  the 
cabins  on  the  starboard  side  are  better,  but  the  difference  is  not  material. 
On  going  on  board  it  is  well  to  secure  a  seat  at  table  at  once,  as 
after  the  first  day  at  sea,  when  seats  have  been  arranged,  it  is  difficult 
to  make  a  change  ;  the  seats  are  usually  allotted  by  the  chief  steward. 

It  is  usual  to  give  at  least  10s.  as  a  fee  to  the  cabin  steward,  and  10s. 
to  the  one  who  waits  on  you  at  table.  The  doctor  also  is  fee'd  by  those 
who  put  themselves  under  his  care.  Going  by  sea  from  England,  through 
the  Bay  of  Biscay,  the  saving  in  point  of  money,  as  compared  with  the 
expense  of  the  overland  route  across  the  Continent  of  Europe,  is  about 
£l6.  It  involves  much  less  trouble,  and  little  or  no  risk  of  losing 
baggage.  The  first  place  sighted  is  generally  Cape  La  Hague,  or 
HofiTue,  on  the  E.  coast  of  Cotentin  in  France,  off  which,  on  the  19th 
of  May  1692  Admiral  Russell,  afterwards  Earl  of  Oxford,  defeated  De 
Tourville,  and  sunk  or  burned  16  French  men-of-war.  Then  Cape 
Finisterre  (finis  terrce),  a  promontory  on  the  W.  coast  of  Galicia  in 
Spain,  and  in  N.  lat.  42"  54',  and  W.  long.  9**  20',  will  probably  be 
seen,  off  which  Anson  defeated  the  French  fleet  in  1747.  The  next 
land  sighted  will  be,  perhaps,  Cape  Boo€^  near  Lisbon,  and  then 
Cape  St.  Vincent  in  N.  lat  37'  3',  W.  long.  8°59',  at  the  S.W.  comer 
of  the  Portuguese  province  Algarve,  off  which  Sir  G.  Rodney,  on  the 
16th  January  1780  defeated  the  Spanish  fleet,  and  Sir  J.  Jervis  won 
his  earldom  on  the  14th  of  February  1797,  and  Nelson  the  Order 
of  the  Bath,  after  taking  the  S,  Josef  &nd  the  S.  Nicholas  of  112  guns 
each.  This  cape  has  a  fort  upon  it,  and  the  white  cliffs,  150  feet 
high,  are  honeycombed  by  the  waves,  which  break  with  great  violence 
upon  them.  From  the  last  three  capes  steamers  are  signalled  to 
Lloyd's.  Just  before  entering  the  Straits  of  Gibraltar,  Cape  Trafalfirar 
will  also  probably  be  seen  in  N.  lat  36°  9',  W.  long.  6'  1',  immortalised 
by  Nelson's  victory  of  the  21st  of  October  1 805.  Ghibraltar  comes  next 
in  sight.  The  following  table  of  distances  is  taken  from  the  pocket-book 
published  by  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company. 
This  little  book,  costing  only  2s.,  can  be  highly  recommended. 

*  Apply  to  Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  &  Son,  either  at  Ludgate  Circus,  Charing 
Qroga,  or  S5  Piccadilly.  ^         t 

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XXIV 


GIBRALTAR  India 


Table  of  Distances  between  the  various  Ports  according  to  the  Routes  taken  by 
Steamers  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Compant 


1  Calling  at  Madras.  s  Omitting  Madras. 

QiBBALTAR. — As  the  steamers  never  stop  for  more  than  a  few 
hours,  passengers  rarely  find  time  for  anything  beyond  a  walk  in  the 
town  and  lower  fortifications.  This  is  a  good  place  to  buy  tobacco^ 
as  there  is  no  duty  and  it  is  cheap.  There  are  steamers  from  Gibraltar 
two  or  three  times  a  week  to  Tangier. 

Gibraltar  was  reckoned  as  one  of  the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  the  other 
being  Abyla,  now  Apes'  Hill.  Gibraltar  was  taken  from  the  Spaniards 
in  711  A.D.  by  Tarik  ibn  Zayad,  from  whom  it  was  called  Jabal  al 
Tarik  =  Gibraltar  ;  and  it  was  retaken  1309  ;  and  not  finally  wrested 
from  the  Moors  till  1603.  In  1704  it  was  taken  by  the  English,  and 
sustained  many  sieges  by  French  and  Spaniards  between  1704  and  1779. 
In  the  latter  year  commenced  the  memorable  siege  which  lasted  4 
years,  and  ended  by  the  repulse  of  the  combined  fleets  of  France  and 

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IfUrod,  GIBRALTAR  XXV 

Spain  by  the  garrison  under  General  Elliott.     Since  that  time  it  has 
remain^  an  uncontested  possession  of  the  EnglisL 

The  Rock  of  Qibraltar  first  comes  in  sight  at  the  distance  of  about 
10  m.  Bounding  Point  Camero,  and  breasting  Europa  Point,  the 
spacious  but  exposed  bay  6  m.  wide  and  10  m.  deep  is  entered.  The 
defensive  strength  of  the  place  is  not  at  once  perceptible.  Two  tiers  of 
batteries  are  concealed  in  galleries  hewn  out  of  the  rock  half-way  up, 
or  lie  so  near  to  the  sea-line  that  they  are  hidden  by  the  vessels  moored 
around.  Gibraltar  is  a  vast  rocky  promontory,  which  on  the  N.  side 
nses  in  a  perpendicular  precipice  1200  ft  high,  and  ascends  in  the 
centre  to  1408  ft  It  is  3  m.  in  length,  and  from  ^  m.  to  ^  m.  in  breadth. 
It  is  joined  to  the  mainland  by  a  low  sandy  istlunus,  l|  m.  in  length. 
On  all  sides  but  the  W.  it  is  steep  and  rugged,  but  on  that  side  there 
is  a  general  slope  from  200  to  300  ft  from  the  rock  down  to  the  sea. 
On  this  side  the  eye  catches  three  high  points :  N.  is  the  Bock  Q-un, 
or  Wolf's  Oracr,  1 337  ft ;  in  the  centre  the  Upper  Si^rnal  Station, 
or  SI  Saoho,  1255  ft  high  ;  and  S.  is  O'Hara's  Towar,  1408  ft 
Here  the  rock  descends  to  Windmill  Hill  flats,  a  level  plateau  | 
m.  long,  which  ends  in  a  still  lower  plateau  &om  100  to  50  ft  above 
the  sea,  called  Europa  Flats.  The  new  mole,  landing-place,  and  dock- 
yard are  on  the  W.  of  G'Hara's  Tower. 

Passports  are  rigidly  exacted  on  landing  from  all  but  British  subjects, 
and  sketching  is,  under  all  circumstances,  strictly  prohibited.  The 
hours  of  gun-fire  vary  according  to  the  time  of  year^  but  are  easily 
ascertained ;  a  few  minutes  later  all  gates  are  shut  and  not  opened 
again  till  sunrise. 

Walk  or  drive  up  Main  Street  as  far  as  the  AJazneda,  where  the 
band  plays  ;  it  was  the  parade-ground  until  1814,  when  Sir  Qeorge  Don 
made  a  garden  of  it,  and  it  is  now  reaUy  lovely.  Notice  a  column 
brought  from  the  ruins  of  Lepida,  surmounted  by  a  bust  of  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  also  a  bust  of  General  EUiott^  the  hero  of  the  great  siege. 
Half-way  is  the  Exohcuiige,  containing  a  commercial  library,  with  the 
dub  Souse  to  the  W.,  and  the  King's  Arms  Hotel  to  the  E.  The 
Btigliftli  Cathedral  Church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  built  in  the  Moorish 
style  in  1832,  stands  near  the  centre  of  the  town.  Returning  through 
the  Soutli  Fort  Q-ate,  look  at  the  dockyard,  and  passing  by  the  South 
Barracks,  take  the  lower  of  two  roads  to  Europa  Point,  N.E.  of  which 
is  another  range  of  barracks.  Beyond  these,  on  the  E.  shore,  is  the 
gammer  residence  of  the  Governors,  called  "  The  Cottage,"  built  by 
General  Fox.  The  Governor's  official  residence  in  South  Port  Street, 
which  is:  still  caUed  "  The  Convent,"  once  belonged  to  Franciscan  Mars. 
Those  remaining  several  days  will  have  time  to  explore  the  Heights 
aad  fortifications,  for  which  purpose  an  order  from  the.  military  secre- 
tnj  ifi  necessary.  From  the  Rock  Gun  there  is  a.£nis  view  of  the 
Boida  Mountains  and  the  Sierra  Nevada ;  the  Moorish  Oastle  is  on 

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zxvi  MALTA  India 

the  way  (746  ad.);  under  a  massive  tower,  called  the  Torre  de 
Omenaga,  are  some  well-constructed  tanks  ;  and  beyond,  the  wonderful 
galleries  excavated  by  convict  labour.  At  the  Sifirnal  House  refresh- 
ments can  be  obtained,  and  from  it  is  a  noble  view,  which  includes  the 
Atlas  Mountains,  Ceuta,  and  Barbaiy,  ending  with  the  Bay  of  Tangiers. 
Between  Rock  Gun  and  O'Hara's  Tower  live  a  few  monkeys,  which 
are  jealously  protected.  S.  of  the  Signal  Station,  and  1100  ft.  above 
the  sea,  is  the  celebrated  St  Michael's  Cave,  open  twice  a  week  ;  an 
entrance  only  6  ft  wide  leads  into  a  hall  200  ft.  long  and  60  ft  high 
supported  by  stala?.tite  pillars  like  Qothic  arches.  Beyond  are  smaller 
caves,  which  have  been  traversed  to  a  distance  of  288  ft  In  Windmill 
Hill  are  the  four  Gtenista  caves,  where  many  bones  of  men  and  animals 
have  been  discovered. 

Beyond  the  Land  Port  Gate  is  a  causeway  leading  into  Spain,  with 
the  sea  on  the  left,  and  the  "  Inundation,"  a  sheet  of  water  so  called, 
on  the  right.  Beyond  these  is  the  North  Front,  where  are  the  ceme- 
tery, the  cricket-ground,  and  the  race-course.  The  eastern  beach,  called 
"  Ramsgate  and  Margate,"  is  the  general  afternoon  resort.  Across  the 
isthmus  is  a  line  of  English  sentries,  then  the  Neutral  Ground,  and  then 
the  Spanish  sentries.  6  m.  &om  Gibraltar  is  a  small  hill,  on  the  top  of 
which  is  the  town  of  S.  Roque,  and  1  m.  beyond  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Carteia  are  passed.  4  m.  from  S.  Roque  is  an  inn, 
and  then  a  ride  through  the  cork  woods  of  about  4  m.  brings  the 
visitor  to  the  Convent  of  Almorainia  and  the  Long  Stables.  10  m. 
from  Gibraltar  by  land,  and  beyond  the  rivers  Guadarauque  and 
Palmones,  is  the  town  of  Algesiras,  where  there  is  good  anchon^e, 
and  steamers  to  various  ports  in  Spain. 

Malta. — On  the  way  from  Gibraltar  to  Malta,  Algiers  may  possibly 
be  seen,  its  white  buildings  stretching  like  a  triangle  with  its  base  on 
the  sea,  and  the  apex  on  higher  ground.  Oape  Fez,  and  the  promon- 
tory of  the  Seven  Oapes,  jagged,  irregular  headlands,  are  passed  on  the 
starboard  side,  also  Oape  Bon,  the  most  northern  point  of  Africa,  and 
the  Island  of  Pantellaria^  the  ancient  Cossyra,  between  Cape  Bon  and 
Sicily.  It  is  8  m.  long,  volcanic,  and  rises  to  a  height  of  more  than 
2000  ft  There  is  a  town  of  the  same  name  near  the  sea-shore,  on  the 
western  slope,  where  there  is  much  cultivation.  It  is  used  by  the 
Italians  as  a  penal  settlement^  and  is  rather  smaller  than  €k>zo.  The 
Maltese  group  of  islands  consists  of  Gk>zo,  Ck>mino,  and  Malta,  and 
stretches  from  N.W.  to  S.E.,  the  total  distance  from  San  Dimitri,  the 
most  W.  point  of  Gozo,  to  Ras  Benhisa,  the  most  S.  part  of  Malta, 
being  about  25  m.  From  the  nearest  point  of  Qozo  to  Sicily  is  55  m.» 
and  Africa  is  187  m.  distant  from  Malta. 

Malta  Ues  in  N.  lat  35"  63'  49",  R  long.  14**  30'  28".  It  is  17 
m.  long  and  8  broad.  Its  area,  together  with  that  of  Gozo,  is  116 
8c^.  HL,  and  the  population  of  the  three  isl^ds  is  about  160,000,      It 

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Inifod.  MALTA  zsvii 

is  a  calcareous  rock,  the  highest  i)oint  being  590  ft.  above  the  sea-leveL 
Towards  the  S.  it  ends  in  precipitous  cliflfs.  It  has  a  barren  appear- 
ance^ but  there  are  many  fertile  gardens  and  fields,  enclosed  in  high 
walls,  where  fine  oranges,  grapes,  and  figs,  and  other  crops,  returning 
from  thirty  to  sixty  fold,  are  grown.  The  Maltese  language  is  a  mix- 
ture of  Arabic  and  Italian,  but  most  of  the  townspeople  have  sufficient 
knowledge  of  Italian  to  transact  business  in  that  tongue.  The  port  of 
Malta  is  situated  somewhat  to  the  E.  of  the  centre  of  the  northern 
shore  of  the  island.  It  consists  of  two  fine  harbours,  separated  by  the 
narrow  promontory  called  Mount  Xiberraa,  or  Sciberras.  The  western 
or  quarantine  harbour,  protected  by  Fort  Tiffna  on  the  W.,  is  called 
Harsamuscatta ;  the  other  is  Valetta^  or  the  great  harbour, — ^it  is 
there  that  the  men-of-war  are  moored.  The  entrance  to  the  great 
harbour  is  protected  on  the  W.  by  Fort  St.  Elmo  at  the  end  of 
Sciberras,  and  on  the  E.  by  Fort  Bicasoli,  both  very  formidable.  At 
Fort  St.  Elmo  is  one  of  the  finest  lighthouses  in  the  Mediterranean. 
The  great  harbour  runs  away  into  numerous  creeks  and  inlets,  in  which 
are  tiie  dockyard,  victualling-yard,  and  arsenal,  all  of  which  could  be 
swept  by  the  guns  of  St.  Ansrelo,  which  is  a  fort  behind  St  Elmo. 
The  mail  steamers  are  moored  in  the  quarantine  harbour,  and  the 
charge  for  landing  is  one  shilling  for  a  boat,  which  will  carry  four 
people.  On  landing,  a  long  flight  of  steps  is  ascended  to  the  Strada 
San  Marco,  which  leads  to  the  principal  street,  Strada  Beale, 
\  m.  long,  in  the  town  of  Valetta,  so-called  from  Jean  de  la  Valette, 
Grand  Master  of  the  Knights  of  St  John  of  Jerusalem,  who  built  it 
after  the  Turkish  armament  sent  against  Malta  by  Sultan  Sulaiman  II. 
had  been  repulsed.  The  foundation  stone  was  laid  on  the  28th  of 
March  1566,  and  the  whole  town,  designed  by  one  architect,  Girolamo 
Cassar,  was  completed  in  May  1571.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  great 
harbour  is  the  town  called  Citta  Vittoriosa. 

Left  of  the  Strada  Reale  is  St.  John's  Cathedral,  a  remarkable 
church,  both  historically  and  architecturally,  designed  by  Cassar. 
The  floor  is  paved  with  slabs  bearing  the  arms  of  scores  of  knights 
who  have  been  interred  in  this  church.  In  the  first  chapel  on  the 
rights  the  altar-piece  represents  the  beheading  of  John  the  Baptist,  and 
is  by  M.  Angelo  Caravaggia  In  the  next  chapel,  which  belonged  to 
the  Portuguese,  are  the  monuments  of  Manoel  Pinto  and  Grand  Master 
Manoel  de  Vilhena,  which  latter  is  of  bronze.  The  third,  or  Spanish 
chapel,  has  the  monuments  of  Grand  Masters  Perellos  and  N.  Cotoner, 
and  two  othera  The  fourth  chapel  belonged  to  the  Provencals.  The 
£fth  chapel  is  sacred  to  the  Virgin,  and  here  are  kept  the  town  keys 
taken  from  the  Turks.  On  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  bronze  monu- 
amt  of  Grand  Master  Marc  Antonio  Sondadario.  The  first  chapel  on 
ike  left  is  the  sacristy.  The  second  chapel  belonged  to  the  Austrians, 
^  i^ifdi  fo  IfaUans,  and  here  are  pictures,  ascribed  to  Caravaggio^  of 

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xxviii  MALTA  India 

St.  Jerome  and  Mary  Magdalene.  The  fourth  is  the  French  chapel, 
the  fifth  the  Bavarian,  and  hence  a  staircase  descends  to  the  erypt, 
where  are  the  sarcopha^  of  the  first  Grand  Master  who  ruled  in  Malta, 
L'Isle  Adam,  and  of  La  Yalette  and  others. 

The  Qov^mor'B  Palace,  formerly  the  Grand  MastM*'*,  close  to  the 
Strada  Reale,  is  a  noble  range  of  huHdings,  containing  marble-paved 
corridors  and  staircase,  and  many  portraits,  and  armed  figures  carrying 
the  shields  of  all  the  Governors  from  the  first  Grand  Master  to  the 
present  day.  The  armoury  is  full  of  interesting  relics,  including  the 
original  deed  granted  to  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem  by  Pope 
Pascal  II.  in  1126,  and  the  deed  when  they  left  Rhodes  in  1522.  The 
Library,  close  to  the  Palace,  contains  40,000  volumes,  and  some  Phoe- 
nician and  Roman  antiquities.  The  highest  battery  commands  a  fine 
view  of  both  harbours  and  of  the  fortifications.  There  are  several  statues 
of  Grand  Masters  and  Governors  in  the  walk  on  the  ramparts.  The 
Opera  House,  the  Bourse,  the  Courts  of  Justice,  once  the  Auberge 
d^Auvergne,  and  the  Clubs  (the  Union  Club  was  the  Auberge  de 
Provence),  and  the  statues  of  L'Isle  Adam  and  La  Valette,  are  all  in 
the  Strada  Reale.  The  Auberge  d'ltalie  is  now  the  engineer's  office  ; 
the  Auberge  de  Castille  has  become  the  headquarters  of  the  Artillery  ; 
the  Auberge  de  France,  in  the  Strada  Mezzodi,  is  now  the  house  of  the 
Comptroller  of  Military  Stores ;  and  the  Auberge  d'Aragon  is  where 
the  General  of  the  Garrison  resides.  The  Auberge  d'Allemagne  was 
removed  in  order  to  erect  St.  Paul's  Church  on  its  site.  The  Anglo- 
Bavarian  Auberge  is  the  headquarters  of  the  regiment  stationed  at  St. 
Elmo.  The  Military  Hospital  has  the  largest  room  in  Europe,  480 
ft  long,  erected  in  1628  by  Grand  Master  Vasconcelos.  Below  the 
Military  Hospital  is  the  Civil  Hospital  for  Incurables,  founded  by 
Caterina  Scappi  in  1646.  Where  the  Strada  Mercanti  joins  the  Strada 
S.  Giovanni  a  large  hook  may  be  observed,  which  formerly  served  as 
the  Pillory.  For  further  information  consult  the  Guide  to  .Malta, 
included  in  Murray's  Handbook  to  the  Mediterranecm.  The  island  on 
which  the  Quarantine  House  stands  was  captured  by  the  Turks  in  1666. 
The  Parlettario  there  is  a  long,  narrow  room  near  the  anchorage,  divided 
by  a  barrier,  where  the  gold  and  silver  filigree-work,  the  cameos,  brace- 
lets and  brooches  in  mosaic,  and  other  b^onterie  for  which  Malta  is 
famous  are  sold.  Maltese  lace  and  silk  embroidery  should  be  bought 
under  the  advice  of  an  expert,  for  the  vendors  in  general  demand 
extravagant  prices.  In  the  wall  of  a  house  in  Strada  Strella  and  Strada 
Britannica  is  a  stone  with  an  Arabic  inscription,  dated  Thursday  16th 
Shaban  569  A.H.s2l8t  March  1174  A.D.,  for  which  see  Jotumdl  Boy, 
As.  Soc.  voL  vl  p.  173. 

Five  m.  beyond  the  landing-stairs  is  the  Governor's  country  Palaoe 
of  S.  Antonio,  where  is  a  lovely  garden  with  creepers  of  astonishing 
beauty,  and  cypresses  40  ft.  high,  as  well  as  many  luxuriant  btange 

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inirdi.  kAi.4^  txix 

tree&  About  j^  m.  jGgurther  to  the  S.W.  is  Oitta  Veoohia^  which 
stands  on  a  ridge  £rom  200  to  300  ft  high,  a£f6rding  a  view  over  nearly 
the  whiole  island.  There  is  a  fine  church  here,  St  Paul's  ;  near  it  are 
some  curious  catacombs.  This  is  alL  that  it  is  possible  to  see  during  the 
short  stay  steamers  usually  make,  but  those  who  have  more  leisure  can 
visit  St.  Paul's  Bay  at  the  N.W.  extremity  of  the  island,  with  the 
statue  of  bronze  erected  on  an  islet  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay.  Also 
the  Carthaginian  or  Phoenician  ruins  at  Ha.erlar  Ohem,  properly  Hajar 
Kaim,  "  upright  stone,"  near  the  village  of  Casal  Crendi,  1 J  hour's  drive 
from  Valetta.  These  ruins,  excavated  in  1839,  consist  of  walls  of  large 
stones  fixed  upright  in  the  ground,  forming  small  enclosures,  connected 
with  one  anotlLer  by  passages,  and  all  contained  within  one  large  enclos- 
ure. The  building  is  thought  to  have  been  a  temple  of  Baal  and 
Astarte.  The  main  entrance  is  on  the  S.S.E.,  and  a  passage  leads  from 
it  into  a  court,  on  the  left  of  which  is  an  altar,  with  the  semblance 
of  a  plant  ruddy  sculptured  on  it  Similar  remains  are  found  in  other 
parts  of  Malta  and  in  Gozo. 

Malta  is  said  to  have  been  occupied  by  the  Phoenicians  in  1500  b.c., 
and  by  the  Greeks  in  750  b.c.  The  Carthaginians  got  possession  of  it 
in  500  B.C.,  and  the  Romans  took  it  after  the  sea-fight  of  Putatia  in 
215  B.C.  The  Goths  and  Vandals  invaded  it  in  420  a.d.  In  520  a.d. 
Belisarius  made  it  a  province  of  the  Byzantine  Empire,  the  Moslems 
conquered  it  in  730  A.D.,  and  Count  Roger,  the  Norman,  captured  it  in 
1 100  A.D.  It  then  passed  to  Louis  IX.,  to  the  Count  of  Anjou,  and  to 
the  Kings  of  Castile,  and  then  to  Charles  V.,  who  gave  it,  in  1530,  to 
the  Rnights  Hospitallers  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem.  On  18th  May  1565 
the  Turks  attacked  St  Elmo,  St  Angelo,  and  Sanglea,  but  the  siege  was 
raised  on  the  8th  of  September  (see  Major  Whitworth  Porter's  History 
of  the  Knights  of  Malta,  Longmans,  1858).  The  Knights  had  their  own 
mint,  fleet,  and  army,  and  accredited  ambassadors  to  foreign  Courts. 
In  the  archives  are  letters  from  Henry  VIII.,  Charles  II.,  and  Anne, 
addressed  to  them  as  princes.  On  the  7th  of  September  1792  the 
Prencli  Directory  commanded  the  Order  to  be  annulled,  and  seized  all 
its  French  possessions.  On  the  7th  of  June  1798  Bonaparte  arrived 
with  a  fleet  of  18  ships  of  the  line,  18  frigates,  and  600  transports, 
and  Malta  was  surrendered  A  tree  of  liberty  was  planted  before  the 
Palace,  the  decorations  of  the  Knights  were  burned,  and  the  churches, 
palaces,  and  charitable  houses  at  Valetta  and  Citta  Vecchia  were 
pilk^ed.  On  the  2d  of  September  1798,  when  the  French  tried  to 
poll  down  the  decorations  in  the  Cathedral,  a  general  revolt  took 
place,  and  Nelson  sent  Captain  Alexander  John  Ball  with  a  frigate  to 
aid  the  Maltese,  and  himself  blockaded  Valetta.  The  French  were 
reduced  to  such  extremities  that  a  rat  sold  for  Is.  7d.,  and  on  the  5th 
of  Septen^ber  1800  their  commander.  General  Vaubois,  surrendered. 
Over  the  main  guard-room  in  St  George's  Square  is  written : 

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XXX  BQTPT,  FORT  SAID,  AlH)  THB  SX7EZ  CANAL  India 

'*  Magnffi  et  inyicte  Britannise 
MeUtensium  amor  et  Europe  vox 
Has  insulas  confirmat  A.D.  1814." 

Bgyfp,  Port  Said,  and  the  Suez  Canal. — ^The  land  about 
Port  Said  is  so  low,  that  the  approach  to  the  harbour  would  be  difSctilt 
were  it  not  for  a  lighthouse  160  ft.  high,  built  of  concrete,  which 
stands  on  the  sea-shore  to  the  right  of  the  harbour  close  to  the  W. 
mole,  and  shows  an  electric  light  flashing  every  20  seconds,  and  visible 
20  m.  off.  The  harbour  is  formed  by  two  breakwaters,  1500  yards 
apart,  built  of  concrete,  the  western  2726  yards  long,  the  eastern  1962 
yards  long.  A  red  light  is  shown  at  the  end  of  the  W.  mole,  and  a 
green  one  at  the  end  of  the  R  The  depth  of  water  at  the  entrance  is 
30  ft.  Since  the  works  were  begun,  the  sea  has  receded  ^  m.,  and  a 
bank  has  formed  to  the  N.W.  of  the  entrance,  having  only  4  to  5 
fathoms  water  on  it,  and  it  increases,  being  caused  by  a  current  which 
sets  along  the  shore,  and  meeting  the  sea  rolling  in  from  the  N.,  is 
forced  back,  and  deposits  its  silt  Inside  the  W.  jetty  another  bank 
is  forming,  and  extends  100  ft.  every  year.  In  1874  the  channel 
was  dredged  out  to  29  ft,  and  by  1875  it  had  filled  again  to  25  ft. 
Port  Said  town  is  modem,  and  though  not  very  inviting,  consisting 
mainly  of  wooden  houses,  chiefly  low  caf^s  and  gambling-houses,  with 
some  shops,  has,  since  1890,  been  improved,  and  is  a  very  important 
coaling-station.  Opposite  the  anchorage  on  the  Marina  is  the  French 
office,  where  pilots  are  got,  and  where  they  take  a  note  of  the  ship's 
draught,  breadth,  length,  and  tonnage.  In  this  office  there  is  a  wooden 
plan  of  the  canal,  along  which  wooden  pegs,  with  flags,  are  placed, 
showing  the  exact  position  of  every  vessel  passing  through  the  canaL 
The  Arab  quarter  lies  to  the  W.,  and  contains  over  7600  souls  and  a 
mosque.  The  Place  de  Lesseps  in  the  centre  of  this  quaiiier  has  a 
garden,  and  some  houses  of  a  better  sort  The  streets  swarm  with  flies, 
and  mosquitoes  also  are  numerous.  The  Exchange  Hotel  may  be  recom- 
mended. There  are  Coptic  and  Syrian  churches,  as  well  as  Protestant 
and  Catholic.     Trains  leave  for  Ismailia,  Suez,  and  Cairo  twice  daily. 

The  Oanal,^  opened  in  1870,  is  in  round  numbers  100  m.  in 
length,  and  as  far  as  Ismailia,  that  is  for  about  42  m.,  it  runs  due  N. 
and  S.  It  then  bends  to  the  R  for  about  35  m.,  and  is  again  almost 
straight  for  the  last  20  m. 

The  following  were  the  dimensions  of  the  canal,  which  is  now 
being  widened  (see  Handbook  of  Egypt), 

Width  at  water-line,  where  banks  are  low        •        •  328  ft. 

„                 in  deep  cuttings       .        •        .  190  „ 

,,                 at  base 72  „ 

Depth 26  „ 

Slope  of  bank  at  water-line  1  in  6  ;  near  base  1  in  2. 

^  For  a  history  of  the  canal,  see  Sandbook  i^Egupi^  John  Murray. 

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Introd,  ISMAILIA  xxxi 

Every  few  m.  there  is  a  grare,  or  station,  and  a  siding  with  signal 
posts,  by  which  the  traffic  is  regulated  according  to  the  block  system 
by  hoisting  black  balls.  Every  year  the  navigation  is  rendered  easier 
by  the  construction  of  additional  sidings.  Traffic  is  carried  on  through 
the  canal  at  night  by  the  aid  of  electric  light.  Vessels  must  not 
move  faster  than  6  m.  an  hour. 

On  the  W.  of  the  canal,  as  far  as  Al  Kantarali  (the  Bridge),  that 
is  for  about  one-fourth  of  the  way,  there  is  a  broad  expanse  of  water, 
called  Ijake  ManzaJali,  and  for  the  rest  of  the  distance  to  the  W.,  and 
the  whole  distance  to  the  E.,  a  sandy  desert,  on  which  foxes,  jacials, 
hyenas,  and,  it  is  said,  occasionally  even  lions,  wander  at  night  21  m., 
or  34  kiL,  from  B^antarah,  and  20  m.  from  Port  Said,  the  old  Pelusiac 
branch  of  the  Nile  is  crossed,  and  8  m.  to  the  S.E.  are  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Pelusium.  At  Kantarah  the  canal  intersects  the 
caravan-track  between  Egypt  and  Syria,  and  is  crossed  by  a  flying 
bridge ;  a  traveller  should  go  on  the  upper  deck  of  his  ship 
when  approaching  it,  as,  if  a  caravan  chances  to  be  passing,  it 
is  a  most  interesting  sight.  10  m.  to  the  W.  is  Tel  al  Daphne, 
the  site  of  Daphne,  the  Taphnes  of  Judith,  i.  9.  At  2  m.  S. 
of  Kantarah  the  canal  enters  the  Lake  Ballah,  and  after  12  m. 
reaches  the  promontory  Al  Fardanali,  which  it  cuts  through. 
Thence,  after  4^  m.,  it  reaches  Al  Q-irsh,  the  highest  groimd  in 
the  isthmus,  65  ft.  above  sea-level.  There  was  a  great  camp  here 
when  the  works  were  in  progress.  A  staircase  of  100  steps  lea 
do-wn  to  the  canal.  Beyond  this,  near  the  entrance  to  Lake  TimsaJi, 
a  small  canal  joins  the  maritime  canal  to  the  Fresh-Water  Canal. 
The  difference  of  level  is  17  ft,  which  is  overcome  by  two  locks. 
A  steam-launch  comes  to  meet  steamers  on  the  canal,  and  land 
passengers  for 

ISMAILIA,  pop.  4000,  which  has  now  much  of  the  importance  and 
trafl&c  that  formerly  belonged  to  Suez  ;  the  mails  and  passengers  for 
Egypt  are  landed  here — hotel.  A  broad  road  lined  with  trees  leads  from 
the  landing-place  across  the  Fresh-Water  Canal  to  the  Quai  Mehemet, 
and  traverses  the  town  from  E.  to  W.  In  the  W.  quarter  are  the 
stations,  the  landing-quays  of  the  Fresh- Water  Canal,  and  large  blocks 
of  warehouses,  and  beyond  them  the  Arab  village.  In  the  E.  part  are 
the  houses  of  the  employes,  the  residence  of  the  Khedive,  which  was 
used  as  a  military  hospital  during  the  English  occupation  of  Ismailia 
in  1 882,  and  the  works  by  which  water  is  pumped  from  the  Fresh- 
Water  Canal  to  Port  Said.  These  are  worth  visiting.  At  Ismailia 
there  is  much  vegetation,  and  some  good  houses, — one  belongs  to  M. 
de  Lesseps.  There  is  good  water-fowl  shooting  here,  and  some  ante- 
lopes are  to  be  found.  The  fish  of  Lake  Timsah  are  better  flavoured 
&an  tliose  of  the  Mediterranean.  Lake  Timsah,  or  Bahr  al  Timsah, 
^  the  Lake  of  the  Crocodile/'  to  which  the  Bed  Sea  is  said  to  have 

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jcxxlt  dt7£2  India 

formerly  extended,  is  crossed  in  about  2^  m.  The  course  is  marked 
by  buoys.  After  4  m.  tbe  canal  reaches  the  higher  ground  of  Tussum, 
where  the  level  of  the  desert  is  20  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  here  the  first 
working  encampment  in  the  S.  half  of  the  isthmus  was  formed  in 
1859.  Three  m.  to  the  S.  is  Serapeum,  where  the  level  is  from  15  to 
25  ft.  above  the  sea,  so  called  from  some  remains  of  a  temple  of  Serapis. 

A  mile  and  a  half  from  this  the  canal  enters  the  Bitter  Lakes, 
where  the  course  is  buoyed.  These  lakes  are  the  ancient  Gulf  of 
HersBopolis.  At  the  N.  and  S.  ends  of  the  principal  lake  is  an  iron 
lighthouse  65  ft.  high,  on  a  solid  masonry  base.  After  28  m.  the 
deep  cutting  of  Shaluf  is  reached,  in  which  is  a  band  of  sandatone, 
with  layers  of  limestone  and  conglomerate,  in  which  fossil  remains 
of  the  shark,  hippopotamus,  tortoise,  and  whale  have  been  found. 
From  this  to  the  Suez  mouth  of  the  canal  is  12  J  m.  Some  think 
that  the  passage  of  the  Israelites  was  through  the  Gulf  of  Herseopolis. 

All  the  way  from  Ismailia  the  banks  are  fringed  with  vegetation, 
and  the  plain  on  either  side  is  dotted  with  bushes.  There  is  a  little 
fishing  in  the  canal  for  those  who  like  the  amusement,  and  at  Suez  there 
is  a  great  variety  of  fish. 

SUEZ.^ — The  chief  historical  interest  of  Suez  is  derived  from  its  having 
been  supposed  to  be  the  spot  near  which  the  Israelites  crossed  the  Red 
Sea  under  the  guidance  of  Moses,  and  where  the  Egyptian  army  was 
drowned,  but  modem  criticism  tends  to  place  the  scene  of  this  event 
farther  N.  In  the  early  years  of  the  1 8th  century  Suez  was  little  better 
than  a  small  fishing-village,  galvanised  now  and  then  into  commercial 
life  by  the  passage  of  caravans  going  to  and  fro  between  Asia  and  Egypt. 
But  in  ISSt,  owing  to  the  exertions  of  Lieutenant  Waghom,  the  route 
through  Egypt  was  adopted  for  the  transit  of  the  Indian  mail,  and  a 
few  years  after  the  P.  &  0.  Company  began  running  a  line  of 
steamers  regularly  between  India  and  Suez.  This  was  followed  in 
1857  by  the  completion  of  a  railway  from  Cairo  (since  destroyed),  and 
Suez  soon  began  to  increase  again  in  size  and  importance.  It  suffered, 
however,  from  the  want  of  fresh  water  until  the  completion  (1863)  of 
the  Fresh-Water  Canal  to  Suez  brought  an  abundance  of  Nile  water 
to  the  town ;  and  the  various  works  in  connection  with  the  Suez  Cansd, 
the  new  quays,  the  docks,  etc.,  raised  the  population  to  15,000.  With. 
the  completion  of  the  canal,  the  activity  of  the  town  decreased,  and 
since  the  transfer  of  the  mails  to  Ismailia,  the  place  has  been  almost 
deserted,  and  the  fine  quays  and  warehouses  are  unused,  as  steamers 
now  usually  anchor  in  the  Roads.  There  is  a  railway  line  to 
Ismailia  and  Port  Said. 

The  Old  Town  itself  offers  few  points  of  interest.  To  the  N.  of 
the  town  are  the  storehouses  of  the  P.  &  0.  Company,  the  lock 
which  terminates  the  Fresh^ Water  Canal,  the  English  Hospital,  and, 
on  the  heights  above,  is  the  chalet  of  the  Khedive,  from  which  there  is 

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Ifdrod,  EXCURSION  to  wells  of  MOSES  xxxiii 

a  magnificent  view ;  in  the  foreground  is  the  town,  the  harbour,  the 
roadstead,  and  the  mouth  of  the  Suez  Canal ;  to  the  right  the  range 
of  Q^bel  Attakah,  a  most  striking  and  beautiful  object,  with  its 
black-violet  heights  hemming  in  the  Red  Sea ;  away  to  the  left,  though 
considerably  fsirther  S.,  are  the  rosy  peaks  of  the  Mount  Sinai  range  ; 
and  between  the  two,  the  deep  blue  of  the  gulf. 

The  whole  of  the  ground  on  which  the  quays  and  other  constructions 
stand  has  been  recovered  from  the  sea. 

ExcuBSiOK  TO  Wells  of  Moses. — A  pleasant  excursion  may  be 
made  to  the  Wells  or  Fountains  of  Moses,  Ain  Musa.  (This 
is  the  quarantine  station  for  Suez.)  From  a  steamer  in  the  roadstead 
the  wells  look  quite  near.  It  will  occupy,  according  to  the  route 
taken  and  the  time  spent  at  the  place,  from  half  a  day  to  a  day. 
The  shortest  way  is  to  take  a  sailing  -  boat,  .  or  one  of  the  small 
steamers  that  ply  between  the  town  and  the  harbour,  as  far  as  the 
jetty,  which  has  been  built  out  into  the  sea  to  communicate  with  the 
new  Quarantine  lately  established  on  the  shore  of  the  gulf  for  the 
reception  of  the  pilgrims  on  their  return  from  Mecca.  From  this 
point  to  Ain  Musa  the  distance  is  not  much  over  a  mile  ;  if  donkeys 
are  required  between  the  jetty  and  the  Wells,  they  must  be  sent  from 
Suez.  The  other  plan  is  to  cross  over  in  a  boat  to  the  old  Quarantine 
jetty,  about  half  a  mile  from  the  town,  either  taking  donkeys  in  the 
boat  or  sending  them  on  previously,  and  then  to  cross  the  Suez  Canal 
by  the  ferry  used  for  the  passage  of  caravans  between  Arabia  and 
Egypt,  and  ride  along  the  desert  to  the  Wells.  Or  the  boat  may  be 
taken  down  to  the  entrance  to  the  canal,  and  then  up  it  a  short 
way  to  the  usual  starting-point  for  the  Wells.  Either  of  these  routes 
will  take  from  three  to  four  hours.  The  sums  to  be  paid  for  boats 
and  donkeys  had  better  be  strictly  agreed  upon  beforehand.  There 
are  two  so-called  hotels  at  Ain  Musa,  where  beds  and  refreshments 
can  be  procured,  but  the  visitor  who  intends  spending  the  day 
there  had  better,  perhaps,  take  some  food  with  him.  This  excursion 
may  be  combined  with  a  visit  to  the  docks,  the  traveller  landing  there 
on  his  return. 

The  "  Wells  "  are  a  sort  of  oasis,  formed  by  a  collection  of  springs, 
surronnded  with  tamarisk  bushes  and  palm  trees.  Since  it  has  become, 
as  Dean  Stanley  calls  it,  "  the  Richmond  of  Suez," — a  regular  picnicking 
place  for  the  inhabitants  of  that  town, — some  Arabs  and  Europeans 
have  regularly  settled  in  it,  and  there  are  now  a  few  houses,  and 
gardens  with  fruit  trees  and  vegetables.  The  water  from  the  springs 
has  a  brackish  taste.  Most  of  them  are  simply  holes  dug  in  the  soil, 
wfaiBh  is  here  composed  of  earth,  sand,  and  clay  ;  but  one  is  built  up 
of  Biassi'^e  masonry  of  great  age.  Though  not  mentioned  in  the  Bible, 
its  position  has  always  caused  it  to  be  associated  with  the  passage,  of 
tbeBecl  Sea  by  the  Israelites,  and  tradition  has  fixecUupon.it  as  the 
fjndtal  Digitized  by  LiODgie    g 


xxxiv  THE  BED  SEA  India 

spot  where  Moses  and  Miriam  and  the  Children  of  Israel  sang  their 
song  of  triumph. 

The  Red  Sea. — A  fresh  breeze  from  the  N.  generally  prevails  for 
two-thirds  of  the  voyage  down  the  Red  Sea,  and  is,  during  the  winter 
months,  succeeded  by  an  equally  strong  wind  from  the  S.  for  the  rest  of 
the  way.  During  the  summer,  the  wind  from  the  N.  blows  through- 
out the  sea,  but  is  light  in  the  southern  half,  and  the  heat  is  great. 
The  Sinaitio  range  is  the  fii^t  remarkable  land  viewed  to  the  E., 
but  Sinai  itself,  37  geographical  m.  distant,  can  be  seen  only  for  five 
minutes,  from  the  bridge  of  the  steamer. 

The  Red  Sea  extends  from  the  head  of  the  Gulf  of  Suez  to  the 
Strait  of  Bab-el-Mandeb,  about  1400  miles,  and  its  greatest  width  is 
about  200  miles.  At  Ras  Mohammed  it  is  split  by  the  peninsula  of 
Sinai  into  two  parts ;.  one,  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  about  150  m.  long, 
and  from  10  to  18  wide,  and  the  other,  the  Gulf  of  Akabah,  about 
100  m.  long,  and  from  5  to  10  wide. 

Wherever  seen  from  the  sea,  the  shores  of  the  Red  Sea  present  an 
appearance  of  absolute  sterility.  A  broad  sandy  plain  slopes  inappreci- 
ably to  th  i  foot  of  the  mountains,  which  are  in  most  parts  a  considerable 
distance  inland.  The  ordinary  mail-steamer's  track,  hpwever,  lies  down 
the  centre  of  the  sea,  and  little  more  than  the  summits  of  the  distant 
bare  and  arid  mountains  will  be  seen. 

The  only  port  on  the  E.  shore  between  Suez  and  the  division  of 
the  sea  is  Tor,  two  days'  journey  from  Sinai.  The  Khedivieh  Company- 
run  steamers,  touching  at  one  or  two  of  the  intermediate  ports  between 
Tor  and  El  Wedj.  Opposite  the  end  of  the  Sinai  peninsula  is  Jel>el 
ez-Zeit,  "the  mountain  of  oil,"  close  to  the  sea.  At  this  point  the 
Egyptian  Government  have  lately  expended  large  sums  in  searching 
for  the  petroleum  which  there  is  reason  to  believe  exists.  Up  to  the 
present,  although  a  certain  amount  of  oil  has  been  found,  it  has  not 
been  proved  to  exist  in  sufficiently  large  quantities  to  pay  for  the 
money  sunk.  If  leave  can  be  obtained  from  the  Public  Works  De- 
partment, a  visit  to  the  site  of  the  borings  might  be  made.  At  ESI- 
Gimsheh,  a  headland,  terminating  the  bay  to  the  S.S.W.  of  it,  are 
some  sulphur-mines,  grottoes,  and  inscriptions  in  the  Sinaitic  character. 
About  27  m.  inland  are  the  old  porphyry  quarries  of  Jebel  ed-Dokhan, 
"mountain  of  smoke."  The  road  from  Gimsheh  past  Jebel  ed- 
Dokhan  may  be  followed  to  Keneh  on  the  Nile.  The  distance  is 
about  140  miles. 

The  ruins  of  Myos  Hormos  are  on  the  coast  in  latitude  27*  24', 
The  town  is  small,  very  regularly  built,  surrounded  by  a  ditcH, 
and  defended  by  round  towers  at  the  comera  and  the  gateways. 
The  port  mentioned  by  Strabo  lies  to  the  northward,  and  is  nearly 
filled  with  sand.  Below  the  hills,  to  the  eastward,  is  the  Fons  Tadmos, 
mentioned  by  Pliny.     Besides  the  ancient  roads  that  lead  from  Myoa 

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IfUrocL  KOSSBIR  XXXV 

Hormos  to  the  westward  is  another  running  N.  and  S.,  a  short  distance 
firom  the  coast,  leading  to  Aboo  Durrag  and  Suez  on  one  side,  and  to 
Suakin  on  the  S. 

KossEiR. — At  Old  Kosseir  are  the  small  town  and  port  of  Philotera, 
of  which  little  remains  but  mounds  and  the  vestiges  of  houses,  some  of 
ancient,  others  of  Arab  date.  The  modem  town  of  Kosseir  stands 
on  a  small  bay  or  cove,  4j  m.  to  the  southward.  The  population  is 
about  2000.  This  is  a  separate  governorship.  It  was  formerly  a  place 
of  some  importance,  but  is  now  falling  into  decay.  The  water-supply 
is  bad.  There  is  a  custom-house,  but  the  trade  is  very  limited,  consist- 
ing principally  of  dates  from  Arabia. 

After  passing  Kosseir  are  the  "  several  ports  "  mentioned  by  Pliny, 
with  landmarks  to  direct  small  vessels  through  the  dangerous  coral- 
reefs,  whose  abrupt  discontinuance  forms  their  mouth.  These 
corresponding  openings  are  singular,  and  are  due  to  the  inability  of 
the  coral  animals  to  live  where  the  fresh  water  of  the  winter  torrents 
runs  into  the  sea,  which  is  the  case  where  these  ports  are  found. 
There  are  no  remains  of  towns  at  any  of  them,  except  at  Nechesia 
and  the  Leucos  Partus  ;  the  former  now  called  "Wadi  en-Nukkari,  the 
latter  known  by  the  name  of  Esh-Shuna,  or  "the  magazine."  Nechesia 
has  the  ruins  of  a  temple,  and  a  citadel  of  hewn  stone  ;  but  the  Leucos 
Portus  is  in  a  very  dilapidated  state  ;  and  the  materials  of  which  the 
houses  were  built,  like  those  of  Berenice,  are  merely  fragments  of 
madrepore  and  shapeless  pieces  of  stone.  About  half-way  between 
them  is  another  small  port,  4  m.  to  the  W.  of  which  are  the  lead-mines 
of  Ghabel  er-Rosas ;  and  a  short  distance  to  the  northward,  in  Wadi 
Abu-Raikeh,  is  a  small  quarry  of  basinite,  worked  by  the  ancients. 
About  20  m.  inl  ind  from  the  site  of  Nechesia  are  the  old  Neccia 
quarries  and  emerald  mines  at  Jebel  Zobarah. 

Behind  the  headland  of  Raa  Benas,  called  Has  el-Unf,  or  Cape  Nose, 
by  the  Arab  sailors,  opposite  Yembo  on  the  Arabian  coast,  there  is  a 
deep  gulf,  at  the  head  of  which  stood  the  old  town  of  Berenice.  Tliis 
gulf,  according  to  Strabo,  was  called  Sinus  Immundus.  The  long 
peninsula  or  chersonesus,  called  Lepte  Extrema,  projecting  from  this 
gulf,  is  mentioned  by  Diodorus,  who  says  its  neck  was  so  narrow  that 
boats  were  sometimes  carried  across  it  from  the  gulf  to  the  open  sea. 
From  the  end  of  the  cape  may  be  perceived  the  Peak  of  St.  John,  or 
the  Emerald  Isle,  Jeziret  Zibirgeh,  or  Semergid,  which  seems  to  be 
the  *0<f>t4a&rfs^  or  serpentine  island,  of  Diodorus.  The  inner  bay,  which 
constituted  the  ancient  port  of  Berenice,  is  now  nearly  filled  with  sand  ; 
and  at  low  tide  its  mouth  is  closed  by  a  bank,  which  is  then  left  entirely 
expooed.     The  tide  rises  and  falls  in  it  about  one  foot. 

The  town  of  Berenioe  was  founded  by  Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  and 
10  called  after  his  mother.  There  is  a  temple  at  the  end  of  a  street, 
tovards  the  centre  of  the  town,  built  of  hewn  stone,  and  consisting  of 

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xxxvi  SUAKIN — JIDDAH  India 

three  inner  and  the  same  number  of  outer  chambers,  with  a  staircase 
leading  to  the  summit,  the  whole  ornamented  with  sculptures  and 
hieroglyphics  in  relief.  It  was  dedicated  to  Serajns ;  and  in  the 
hieroglyphics  are  the  names  of  Tiberius  and  Trajan. 

Between  Ras  Benas  and  Ras  Elba  are  a  number  of  small  harbours 
which  are  much  used  by  Arab  traders  to  convey  provisions  to  the 
Bishareen  tribes,  and  to  bring  slaves  back  to  Yembo  and  Jiddah. 
Since  the  trade  with  the  Soudan  has  been  stopped  in  consequence  of 
the  rebellion,  a  good  deal  of  the  commerce  which  used  to  pass  through 
Suakin  now  goes  to  these  small  harbours,  the  custom  duties  being  thus 
lost  to  the  Egyptian  Government  South  of  Ras  Elba  is  Bas  Roway, 
a  long,  low  promontory.  Here  is  an  Egyptian  station  dependent  upon 
Suakin.  At  Roway  are  some  very  extensive  salt-fields,  from  which  a 
considerable  amount  of  salt  is  exported  annually,  principally  to  India. 

Suakin  is  the  most  important  town  on  the  W.  side  of  t^e  Red  Sea. 
It  was  the  scene  of  the  two  English  expeditions  of  1884,  1885,  neither 
of  which  led  to  any  result.  In  1896  the  21st  Bombay  Infantry  held 
Suakin  for  the  Khedive  of  Egypt,  and  caused  a  division  of  Osman 
Digna's  forces,  thus  enabling  the  Khedive's  troops,  under  Sir  Herbert 
Kitchener,  the  more  easily  to  reconquer  the  North  Soudan.  The  prin- 
cipal tribes  in  the  vicinity  of  Suakin  are  the  Hadendowa  and  Aniarar. 

After  leaving  Suez  the  lighthouses  seen  are  Zafarana  and  Has 
Gharib,  both  on  the  W.  coast  before  Tor  is  reached.  Then  follows  the 
light  on  Ashrafi,  just  inside  the  mouth  of  the  Gulf  of  Suez,  and  that 
on  Shad  war,  just  south  of  it.  The  light  on  The  Biothers  is  nearly  due 
E.  of  Kosseir.  The  Daedalus  Reef,  small  and  dangerous,  lies  in  mid- 
channel  in  latitude  26'*,€uid  was  a  terror  to  navigators  before  the  light  was 
erected.     And  lastly,  the  light  on  Perim  Island  in  the  Bab-el-Mandeb. 

The  most  important  ports  of  Arabia  on  the  Red  Sea  are  Yenbo,  lat 
24'*  N.,  the  port  of  Medina^  130  m.  to  the  E.  The  town  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  12  ft  high  and  is  a  mean  place,  but  the  harbour 
is  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast 

Jiddah,  in  latitude  21^°  N.,  is  an  important  place  ;  the  seaport  of 
Mecca,  which  is  60  m.  E.  The  population,  including  surrounding 
villages,  is  about  40,000.  English  and  other  steamers  call  here 
frequently.  The  anchorage  is  3^  m.  from  the  shore.  The  town  is 
square  in  shape,  enclosed  by  a  wall  with  towers  at  intervals,  and  on  the 
sea-face  two  forts.  There  is  a  good  street  parallel  to  the  sea.  The 
other  streets  are  irregular  and  not  so  clean.  The  town,  for  this 
part  of  the  world,  is  well  kept,  but  the  suburbs  are  very  poor.  The 
population  is  most  fanatical,  and  Europeans  landing  must  behave  in  al 
respects  cautiously.  Supplies  are  abundant,  but  it  is  the  custom  to 
ask  strangers  exorbitant  prices.  There  are  three  entrances  to  the  town 
on  the  sea  side,  but  the  central  one  at  the  jetty  is  the  only  one  in 

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ItUrod,  HODEIDA  xxxvii 

ardinary  use.  The  gate  on  the  S.  side  of  the  town  is  seldom  opened, 
that  on  the  N.  is  free  to  all,  hut  the  E.  or  Mecca  gate,  which  fonnerly 
was  strictly  reserved  for  Mohammedans,  should  he  approached  with 
caution,  though  Eurox>ean8  are  now  generally  permitted  to  use  it. 
The  only  sight  of  the  town  is  the  so-called  Tomh  of  Eve.  This  is  a 
small  mosque  in  the  centre  of  two  long  low  walls  140  ft.  in  length, 
which  are  supposed  to  enclose  the  grave  of  our  gigantic  ancestress. 
It  is  regarded  with  considerahle  veneration,  and  lies  north  of  the  town 
The  antiquity  of  the  tradition  is  unknown.  Jiddah  was  homharded 
by  the  British  in  1858  in  retribution  for  a  massacre  of  the  consul  and 
other  British  subjects  by  the  population. 

HODEIDA,  lat  14'*  40'  N.,  has  a  population  of  about  33,000.  The 
anchorage  here  also  is  about  3^  m.  from  the  shore.  European 
steamers  call  weekly  or  oftener.  Mooha,  which  this  place  has  sup- 
planted as  a  commercial  port^  is  100  m.  S.  Hodeida  has  wel!-built 
houses  and  an  amply -supplied  market.  It  looks  well  from  having 
moeques  with  fine  domes  and  minarets. 

The  Italians  and  French  have  settlements  on  the  African  shore  in 
the  S.  part  of  the  Bed  Sea,  at  Asab  and  Obokh,  but  passenger 
steamers  to  India  do  not  approach  these  places. 

The  Island  of  Perim  occupies  the  narrowest  part  of  the  Strait  of 
Bab-el-Mandeb  ("the  gate  of  tears  ").  It  is  distant  1 J  m.  from  the  Arabian 
coast,  and  9  to  10  m.  from  the  Aifrican.  The  average  width  is  ij  m., 
the  greatest  length  3^  m.  Captain  F.  M.  Hunter  has  given  the  most 
complete  description  of  the  island  in  his  Statistical  Account  of  Aden. 

Perim  is  called  by  the  author  of  The  Pervplus  the  island  of  Diodorus, 
and  is  known  amongst  the  Arabs  as  Mayun.  The  formation  is  purely 
volcanic  and  consists  of  long  low  hills  surrounding  a  capacious  harbour 
about  1^  nL  long,  ^  m.  in  breadth,  with  a  depth  of  from  4  to  6 
fsXhoioA  in  the  best  anchorages.  The  highest  point  of  the  island  is 
245  ft.  above  sea-level.  All  endeavours  to  find  water  have  failed,  and 
but  little  is  procurable  from  the  mainland  near.  There  are  water 
tanks  that  used  to  be  supplied  from  Aden,  but  a  condensing  apparatus 
is  found  the  most  convenient  means  of  supply.  The  British  are  the 
only  nation  who  have  ever  permanently  occupied  Perim.  Albuquerque 
landed  upon  it  in  1513,  and  erected  a  high  cross  on  an  eminence,  and 
called  it  the  island  of  Vera  OruZj  by  which  name  it  is  shown  on  old 
Admiralty  charts.  Afterwards  it  was  occupied  by  pirates  who  in  vain 
dug  for  water.  In  1799  the  East  India  Company  took  possession  of  it, 
and  sent  a  force  from  Bombay  to  hold  it,  to  prevent  the  French  then  in 
Egypt  from  passing  on  to  India,  where  it  was  feared  they  would  effect  a 
junction  with  Tipu  Sahib.  The  lighthouse  on  the  highest  point  was 
completediu  1 86 1,  and  since  then  two  others  have  been  built  on  the  shore. 
There  is  always  a  guard  from  the  garrison  at  Aden.  They  occupy 
a  amall  block  house  for  the  protection  of  the  lighthouse  and  coaling- 
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xxxviii  ADBN  India 

stations.  Steamers  usually  pass  to  the  E.  of  the  island  near  the 
Qovemment  boat  harbour.  The  western  side  of  the  large  inner 
harbour  has  been  assigned  to  the  Perim  Ck)al  Company,  who  have  ex- 
pended £120,000  in  making  the  place  one  of  the  most  perfect  coaling 
and  salvage  stations  in  the  East  The  salvage  steamers  are  powerful, 
and  always  ready  to  render  assistance  to  vessels  in  distress.  The 
"  City  "  line  of  steamers  coal  here. 

Throughout  the  Red  Sea  enormous  coral  reefs  run  along  the  coasts 
in  broken  lines  parallel  to  the  shores,  but  not  connected  with  them. 
They  usually  rise  out  of  deep  water  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface. 
A  navigable  channel  from  2  to  3  m.  wide  extends  between  them  and 
the  E.  coast,  and  a  narrower  one  on  the  W.  coast.  The  whole  sea  is  in 
course  of  upheaval  The  former  seaport  of  Adulis,  in  Annesley  Bay,  near 
Masspwa,  is  now  4  m.  inland. 

The  tides  are  very  uncertain.  At  Suez,  where  they  are  most  regular, 
they  rise  from  7  ft.  at  spring  to  4  ft.  at  neap  tides. 

During  the  hottest  months,  July  to  September,  the  prevalence  of 
northerly  winds  drives  the  water  out  of  the  Red  Sea.  The  S.W. 
monsoon  is  then  blowing  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  the  general  level 
of  the  Red  Sea  is  from  2  to  3  ft.  lower  than  during  the  cooler  months, 
when  the  N.E.  monsoon  forces  water  into  the  Gulf  of  Aden  and  thence 
through  the  Strait  of  Bab-el-Mandeb. 

Aden  was  known  to  the  Romans,  and  was  for  many  years  held 
by  the  Turks,  who  captured  the  port  from  the  Arabs.  Marco  Polo, 
the  Venetian,  visited  Aden  on  his  return  from  his  travels  in  China. 
It  was  then,  in  the  14th  cent,  held  by  a  governor  appointed  by  the 
"  Soldan."  Polo  mentions  the  port  as  having  been  "  a  seat  of  direct 
trade  with  China  in  the  early  centuries  of  Islam."  An  Arab  reports 
it  at  that  period  as  "  enclosed  by  mountains,  and  you  can  enter  hy 
one  side  only."  On  the  18th  February  1513  Albuquerque  sailed 
from  India  with  20  ships  for  the  conquest  of  Aden.  In  the  assault  on 
the  fortress  their  scaling-ladders  broke,  and  although  they  succeeded 
in  taking  "  a  bulwark  which  guarded  the  port  with  39  great  pieces  of 
cannon,"  they  were  obliged  to  withdraw  after  a  four  days'  siege.  On 
the  3rd  of  August  1539  Soliman  "Basha,"  the  admiral-in-chief  of  a 
Turkish  armada  of  74  ships  and  gunboats,  cast  anchor  in  the  port. 
His  mission  was  against  the  Portuguese  in  India  A  Venetian  captive 
serving  as  a  slave  on  a  Turkish  galley  writes  in  his  Memoirs :  **  *Tis 
very  strong,  and  stands  by  the  seaside,  surrounded  with  exceeding 
high  mountains,  on  the  top  of  which  are  little  castles  or  forts" 
(evidently  watch-towers,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still  to  be  seen  on  the 
most  inaccessible  points  on  the  rim  of  the  Crater).  "  'Tis  encompassed, 
also  with  ravelins  on  every  side,  excepting  a  little  opening,  about  30O 
paces  wide  "  (now  made  into  the  "  Main  Pass  "X  "  for  a  road  into  the 

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Introd.  ADEN  xxxix 

country  and  to  the  shore,  with  gates,  towers,  and  good  walls.  Besides 
all  this  there  is  a  shoal  before  the  city,  on  which  is  built  a  fort ;  and 
at  the  foot  of  it  a  tower  for  the  derence  of  the  port,  which  lies  to  the 
south,  and  has  two  fathom  of  water.  To  the  north  there  is  a  large 
port,  with  good  anchorage,  covered  from  all  winds"  (this  is  the 
modem  port). 

On  this  occasion  the  admiral  was  offended  at  the  reception  he  met 
with  from  the  Turkish  governor  of  'Aden,  and  landed  a  force  of 
Janissaries,  who  occupied  all  the  forts,  and  brought  the  governor  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  admiral  The  latter  gave  a  most  sumptuous 
entertainment  to  his  guest ;  but  when  about  to  withdraw  made  a 
signal  to  his  crew,  on  which  the  governor  was  seized,  and  he  and  his 
staff  hung  out  on  the  yard-arms  of  the  flag-ship. 

Marco  Polo  mentions :  "  And  it  is  a  fact  that  when  the  Soldan  of 
Babylon  went  against  the  city  of  Acre"  (in  a.d.  1291)  "this  Soldan  of 
Aden  sent  to  his  assistance  30,000  horsemen  and  40,000  camels,  to 
the  great  help  of  the  Saracens  and  the  grievous  injury  of  the  Christians. 
He  did  this  a  great  deal  more  for  the  hate  he  bears  the  Christians 
than  for  any  love  he  bears  the  Soldan."  This  was  the  Mameluke 
Sultan  Malik  Ashraf  KhaliL 

Aden  was  taken  from  the  Arabs  by  the  British  on  the  16th 
of  January  1839  (see  the  Aden  Handbook,  by  Captain  F.  M.  Hunter). 
It  was  attacked  by  the  Abdalis  and  Fadthelis  on  the  11th  of  November 
in  that  year,  but  they  were  repulsed  with  the  loss  of  200  kille<iand 
wounded.  The  united  Arab  tribes  made  a  second  attack  on  the  22nd 
of  May  1840,  but  failed  after  losing  many  men.  On  the  5th  of  July 
1840  a  third  attack  took  place,  but  the  assailants,  Abdalis  and  Fad- 
thelis, were  driven  back  and  lost  300  men.  In  January  1846  Saiyad 
Ismail,  after  preaching  a  jihad,  or  religious  war,  in  Mecca,  attacked  this 
place,  and  was  easily  repulsed.  A  series  of  murders  then  commenced. 
On  tiie  29th  of  May  1860  a  seaman  and  a  boy  of  H.  E.  I.  C.  steam- 
frigate  Auckland  were  killed  while  picking  up  shells  on  the  N.  shore 
of  the  harbour.  On  the  28th  of  February  1851  Captain  Milne,  com- 
missariat officer,  and  a  party  of  officers,  went  to  Wahat,  in  the  Lahej 
territory.  At  midnight  a  fanatic  mortally  wounded  Captain  Milne, 
who  died  next  day,  severely  wounded  Lieutenant  MTherson,  of  the 
78th  Highlanders,  slightly  wounded  Mr.  Saulez,  and  got  clear  away. 
On  the  27  th  March  following,  another  fanatic  attacked  and  severely 
wounded  Lieutenant  Delisser  of  the  78th  Highlanders,  but  was  killed 
by  that  officer  with  his  own  weapon.  On  the  12th  of  July  in  the  same 
vear,  the  mate  and  one  sailor  of  the  ship  Sons  of  Gommercey  wrecked 
near  Qhubet  Sailan,  were  murdered.  In  1858,  'Ali  bin  Muhsin, 
Sultan  of  the  Abdalis,  gave  so  much  trouble  that  Brigadier  Coghlan, 
Commandant  at  Aden,  was  compelled  to  march  against  him,  when  the 
Azabs  were  routed  with  a  loss  of  from  30  to  40  men,  and  with  no 

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xl  ADEK  India 

casualties  on  our  side.  In  December  1865,  the  Sultan  of  the  Fadtheli 
tribe,  which  has  a  seaboard  of  100  m.,  extending  from  the  boundary 
of  the  Abdalis,  attempted  to  blockade  Aden  on  the  land  side ;  but 
was  utterly  routed  by  Lieut. -Col.  Woolcombc,  C.B.,  at  Bir  Said,  15 
m.  from  the  Barrier  Gate.  A  force  under  Brigadier-General  Raines, 
C.B.,  then  marched  through  the  Abgar  districts,  which  are  the  low- 
lands of  this  tribe,  and  destroyed  several  fortified  villages.  Subse- 
quently, in  January  1866,  aii  expedition  went  from  Aden  by  sea  to 
Shugrah,  the  chief  port  of  the  Fadthelis,  65  m.  from  Aden,  and  de- 
stroyed the  forts  there.  Since  1867  this  tribe,  which  numbers  6700 
fighting  men,  have  adhered  to  their  engagements.  The  Sultan  of  the 
Abdalis,  who  inhabit  a  district  33  m.  long  and  8  broad  to  the  N.N.W. 
of  Aden,  and  number  about  8000  souls,  was  present  in  Bombay  during 
the  Duke  of  Edinburgh's  visit  in  February  1870,  and  is  friendly.  His 
territory  is  called  La  Hej,  and  the  capital  is  Al-Hautah,  21  m.  from  the 
Barrier  Gate  (see  expeditions,  p.  xliii.) 

Aden  is  hot,  but  healthy.  Snakes  and  scorpions  are  rather 
numerous.  The  town  is  full  of  interest  to  the  anthropologist,  and  a 
visit  to  the  bazaar  in  the  afternoon  is  well  worth  the  trouble.  Wild 
Arabs  from  the  interior  of  Arabian  Yemen,  Turks,  Egyptians,  hideous 
Swahelis  from  the  coast  of  East  Africa,  Somalis  from  the  untamed 
shock-headed  Bedouin  to  the  more  civilised  ofl&cer's  servant,  Jews  of 
various  sects,  inhabitants  of  India,  Parsis,  British  soldiers,  Bombay 
Macathas,  and  lastly  the  Jack-tar,  are  seen  together  in  a  motley 
crowd. 

The  Crater  used  in  former  days  to  be  the  fortress  of  Aden.  Now 
modem  science  has  converted  "  Steamer  Point "  into  a  seemingly  im- 
pregnable position  ;  the  peninsula  which  the  "  Point  *'  forms  to  the 
whole  Crater  being  cut  off  by  a  fortified  line  which  runs  from 
N.  to  S.  just  to  the  eastward  of  the  coal  wharfs.  The  harbour 
mouth  is  swept  by  a  powerful  armament  of  10"  and  6"  guns  mounted 
on  "  disappearing  "  hydraulic  carriages  in  Forts  Tarshine  and  Morbut 
Batteries  sweep  the  inner  harbour  and  the  approach  by  land  from 
the  Main  Pass  and  village  of  Ma'ala.  The  accuracy  of  the  artillery 
fire  is  ensured  by  "  position  finders "  on  the  spurs  of  the  mountain 
Shumshum.  The  whole  position  bristles  with  quick-firing  ordnance 
of  the  latest  patterns.  The  only  fault  that  critics  have  found  is 
that  too  much  has  been  spent  on  ordnance  of  unnecessarily  large 
calibre. 

Inside  the  Light  Ship  the  waXer  shallows  to  4  fathoms,  and  a  large 
steamer  stirs  up  the  mud  with  the  keeL  As  soon  as  the  vessel  stops, 
scores  of  little  boats  with  one  or  two  Somali  boys  in  each  paddle  off 
and  surround  the  steamer,  shouting  "Overboard,  overboard,"  and 
"  Have  a  dive,  have  a  dive,"  also  "  Good  boy,  good  boy,"  aU  together, 
with  a  very  strong  accent  on  the  first  syllable.     The  cadence  is  not 

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InirocL  ADEN  xli 

trnpleasing.  If  a  small  coin  is  flung  to  them  they  all  spring  into  the 
water,  and  nothing  is  seen  but  scores  of  heels  disappearing  under  the 
surface  as  they  dive  for  the  money.  Owing  to  a  number  of  fatalities, 
&om  sharks,  diving  is  prohibited  in  the  S.W.  monsoon  months.  Other 
fish  are  almost  as  ravenous.  In  1877  a  rock  cod  between  5  and  6  ft. 
long  seized  a  man  who  was  diving  and  tore  off  the  flesh  of  his  thigh. 
The  man's  brother  went  down  with  a  knife  and  killed  the  cod,  which 
was  bronght  ashore  and  photographed  at  Aden,  as  was  the  wounded 
man. 

As  soon  as  the  captain  has  fixed  the  hour  at  which  he  will  leave 
the  port,  a  notice  is  posted,  and  then  passengers  generally  start  for  the 
shore  to  escape  the  dust  and  heat  during  coaling.  All  the  ports  are 
eloeed,  and  the  heat  and  closeness  of  the  cabins  will  be  found  quite  in- 
sapportable. 

No  boat  can  ply  for  hire  in  Aden  Harbour  without  a  licence 
&om  the  Conservator  of  the  Port,  and  the  number  of  the  licence  must 
be  displayed  on  the  bow  and  stem,  and  also  by  each  of  the  crew. 
When  asking  payment  the  crew  must  exhibit  the  tables  of  fares  and 
rules,  and  any  one  asking  prepayment  is  liable  to  fine  or  imprison- 
ment. In  case  of  dispute,  recourse  must  be  had  to  the  nearest  European 
poKce  oflScer.  By  special  agreement  a  first-class  boat  may  be  engaged 
for  4  fares,  and  a  second-class  boat  for  3  fares.  Every  boat  must  have 
a  lantern  at  night  A  boat  inspector  attends  at  the  Gun  Wharf  from  6 
AJL  to  11  P.M.  to  call  boats,  suppress  irregularities,  and  give  informa- 
tion to  passengers.  After  sunset  passengers  can  lije  landed  only  at  the 
Gun  Wharf. 

It  takes  from  twelve  to  twenty  minutes  to  land  at  the  Post  Office 
Pier,  which  is  broad  and  sheltered.  The  band  occasionally  plays 
^ere^  To  the  left,  after  a  walk  or  drive  of  a  mile,  one  arrives  at 
&e  hotels.  There  is  also  a  large  shop  for  wares  of  all  kinds  kept 
by  a  Parsi 

Land  Conveyances 

Every  conveyance  must  have  the  number  of  its  licence  and  the 
number  of  persons  it  can  carry  painted  on  it.  A  table  of  fares  must 
be  fixed  on  some  conspicuous  part  of  the  conveyance,  and  the  driver 
must  wear  a  badge  with  the  number  of  his  licence,  and  must  not 
demand  prepayment  of  his  fare.  From  Isthmus  to  the  Point  the  fare 
is  the  same  as  from  Town  to  Point.  The  Point  signifies  any  inhabited 
part  of  Steamer  Fomt,  the  name  given  to  the  part  of  the  peninsula  off 
vUch  the  steamers  lie. 

Condensers 

At  a  short  distance  N.  of  the  hotels  is  a  condenser  belonging  to  a 
pfrmte  proprietor.      There  are  three  such  condensers  belonging  to 

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xlii  ADEN  India 

Government,  and  several  the  property  of  private  companies,  and  by 
these  and  an  aqueduct  from  Sheikh  Othman,  7  m.  beyond  the  Barrier 
Qate,  Aden  is  supplied  with  water.  Condensed  water  costs  from  about 
2  rs.  per  100  gallons. 

The  Tajiks 

Besides  these  there  are  tanks,  which  are  worth  a  visit  The 
distance  to  them  from  the  pier  is  about  5  m.  Altogether  there 
are  about  fifty  tanks  in  Aden,  which  if  entirely  cleared  out, 
would  have  an  aggregate  capacity  of  nearly  30,000,000  imperial 
gallons.  It  is  supposed  that  they  were  commenced  about  the  second 
Persian  invasion  of  Yaman  in  600  a.d.  Mr.  Salt,  who  saw  them 
in  1809,  says,  ^'The  most  remarkable  of  these  reservoirs  consists 
of  a  line  of  cisterns  situated  on  the  N.W.  side  of  the  town,  three  of 
which  are  fully  80  ft.  wide  and  proportionally  deep,  all  excavated 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  lined  with  a  thick  coat  of  fine  stucco.  A 
broad  aqueduct  may  still  be  traced  which  formerly  conducted  the 
water  to  these  cisterns  from  a  deep  ravine  in  the  mountain  above; 
higher  up  is  another  still  entire,  which  at  the  time  we  visited  it  was 
partly  filled  with  water.''  In  1856  the  restoration  of  these  magnifi- 
cent works  was  undertaken  (see  the  Aden  Handbook,  by  Captain  F.  M. 
Hunter).  And  thirteen  have  been  completed,  capable  of  holding 
8,000,000  gallons  of  water.  The  range  of  hills  which  was  the  crater 
of  Aden  is  nearly  circular.  On  the  W.  side  the  hills  are  precipitous, 
and  the  rain  that  descends  from  them  rushes  speedily  to  the  sea.  On 
the  E.  side  the  descent  is  broken  by  a  tableland  winding  between  the 
summit  and  the  sea,  which  occupies  a  quarter  of  the  entire  superficies 
of  Aden.  The  ravines  which  intersect  this  plateau  converge  into  one 
valley,  and  a  very  moderate  fall  of  rain  suffices  to  send  a  considerable 
torrent  down  it.  This  water  is  partly  retained  in  the  tanks  which  were 
made  to  receive  it,  and  which  are  so  constructed  that  the  overflow  of 
the  upper  tank  falls  into  a  lower,  aud  so  on  in  succession.  As  the  annual 
rainfall  at  Aden  did  not  exceed  6  or  7  in.,  Malik  al  Mansur,  King  of 
Yaman,  at  the  close  of  the  15th  century  built  an  aqueduct  to  bring  the 
water  of  the  Bir  Hamid  into  Aden  (see  Playfair's  History  of  Yaman). 

The  Salt  Pcuis  on  the  way  to  Sheikh  Othman  are  curious.  The  sea- 
water  is  pumped  into  shallow  pans  cut  out  of  the  earth,  and  allowed 
to  evaporate,  and  the  salt  which  remains  is  collected.  It  belongs 
to  an  Italian  company,  who  pay  royalty  on  every  ton  of  salt  procured. 
The  Keith-Falconer  Medical  Mission  at  Sheikh  Othman,  as  well  as 
Steamer  Point,  was  established  by  the  Hon.  Ion  Keith  -  Falconer, 
Arabian  Prtjfessor,  Cambridge,  who  died  there.  His  tomb,  erected  by 
the  Dowager  Countess  of  Kintore,  of  fine  Carrara  marble,  is  in  the 
military  cemetery  of  Aden.  The  Mission,  under  the  care  of  the 
doctors  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  is  most  popular.     At  Steamer 

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Inirod.  aden  xliii 

Point  there  are  three  churches  for  the  troops,  Anglican,  Scottish,  and 
Roman.    In  the  Crater  there  are  two  churches. 


Expeditions 

There  is  no  risk  attending  an  expedition  at  any  time  in  the  day 
I  beyond  the  Barrier  Gate  up  to  Sheikh  Othman,  distant  about  5  m. 
Parties  of  officers  now  go  shooting  without  being  troubled  in  the 
I  Abdali  country,  within  a  radius  of  20  m. 

An  expedition  should  be  made,  if  a  few  days'  stay  at  Aden  is 
poerible,  to  Al-Hautah.  There  is  a  Dak  Bungalow  provided  by  the 
Saltan  of  La  Hej,  with  bed -cots  and  crockery,  etc.,  and  cooking 
iitensik  Food  should  be  taken  from  Aden,  where  also  camels  for 
riding  can  be  procured  by  application  to  the  Commissariat  officer. 
Fhe  PoUtical  Resident  is  always  pleased  to  give  every  attention  to  any 
application  for  permission.  The  Sultan  of  Al-Hautah  is  most  generous 
in  his  provision  for  strangers.     It  is  the  custom  to  call  upon  him. 

After  leaving  Aden  the  only  land  usually  approached  by  steamers 
tx)iind  for  India  is  the  Island  of  SoootiB.,  which  is  about  150  m. 
E.  of  Cape  Guardafui,  the  E.  point  of  the  African  continent  The 
island  is  71  ul  long,  and  22  broad.  Most  of  the  surface  is  a  tableland 
about  800  ft  above  sea-leveL  The  capital  is  Tamarida  or  Hadibu,  on 
the  N.  coast.  The  population  is  only  4000,  or  4  to  the  square  mile. 
It  is  pohtically  a  British  possession  subordinate  to  Aden,  but  adminis- 
tered in  its  internal  affairs  by  its  own  chiefs. 


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xliv 


THB  PEOPLE  OF  INDIA — MOHAMMEDANS 


India 


THE  PEOPLE   OF   INDIA 

The  census  of  1891  gave  the  population  of  India  and  Burma  a^ 
follows : — 


British 
Feudatory    . 
Portuguese  . 
French 

Area  in 
Square  Miles. 

Population. 

Persons  per 
Square  Mile. 

961,994 

695,313 

1,086 

178 

221,118,264 

66,050,479 

481,467 

282,923 

229 

110 
\  chiefly  in 
j     towns 

1,558,671 

287,928,133 

184 

Of  this  total  of  288,000,000  about  150,000  are  British  bom,  of 
whom  one  half  are  soldiers.     The  army  of  British  India  compiisee  : — 

British  Troops 74,000 

Native 145,000 


219,000 

In  addition  there  are  Native  Reserves,  15,000 ;  Imperial  Service 
Troops  furnished  by  Native  States,  19,000  ;  and  European  or  Eurasian 
Volunteers,  27,000,  making  altogether  61,000  additional  men  trained 
by  British  officers.  The  Native  States  have  semi -trained  troops 
which  are  not  included  in  this  list. 

There  are  four  races  in  India — ^the  aborigines,  or  non-Aryans  ;  the 
pure  Aryans,  or  twice -born  castes ;  the  Mohammedans ;  and  the 
Hindus,  a  blend  of  Aryans  and  non- Aryans,  who  form  the  bulk  ol 
the  population. 

The  census  of  1891  gave,  in  round  numbers,  the  following  religious 
statistics : — 


Brahmanic  . 
Animist  (non- Aryan) 
Mohammedan 
Buddhist     . 


207,700,000 

9,300,000 

67,300,000 

7,100,000 


Christian 
Sikh       . 
Jain 
Zoroastrian 


2,300,000 

1,900,000 

1,400,000 

90,000 


THE  MOHAMMEDANS  . 
(strictly   Muhammad,    "the   praised**) 


Mohammed  (strictly  Muhammad,  "the  praised**)  was  bom  a1 
Mecca  in  570  A.D.,  his  father  being  a  poor  merchant  who  died  soon 
after  the  birth  of  his  son.  When  twenty-five  years  old  he  became 
manager  or  agent  to  a  rich  widow  named  Khadija,  who,  although 
fifteen  years  his  senior,  offered  him  marriage.  By  her  he  had  two  sons 
who  died  young,  and  four  daughters,  of  whom  the  best  known  h 
Fatima.     At  the  age  of  forty  he  received  the  first  divine  communica- 

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Introd.  THE  MOHAMMEDANS  xlv 

don  in  the  solitude  of  the  mountain  Hira,  near  Mecca.  The  angel 
Gabriel  apx>eared,  and  commanded  him  to  preach  the  new  religion. 
The  Meccans  persecuted  him;  his  wife  and  uncle  died;  and  he  became 
poTertj  -  stricken.  In  June  622  he  fled  to  Medina,  where  he  was 
accepted  as  a  prophet.  He  made  war  upon  the  Meccans,  and  finally 
succeeded  in  capturing  Mecca,  where  he  was  then  recognised  as  chief 
I  and  prophet  He  died  in  the  arms  of  his  favourite  wife  Ayesha,  on 
the  8th  June  632. 

The  chief  tenet  of  the  Mohammedan  religion  is  Islam,  which  means 
resignation,  submission  to  the  will  of  Qod,  In  its  dogmatical  form  it 
is  Imam  (faith),  in  its  practical  Din  (religion).  The  fundamental 
principle  is,  "  There  is  no  God  but  Gkxi ;  and  Mohammed  is  God's 
prophet,"  There  are  four  great  duties.  1.  Daily  prayers.  These  should 
tike  place  five  times  a  day — at  sunset,  nightfall,  daybreak,  noon,  and 
^moon.  2.  The  giving  of  alms.  3.  The  fast  of  Ramazan.  4.  A 
pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  In  the  Koran  (much  of  which  was  dictated  by 
ifobammed),  a  holy  war  or  Jihad  is  enjoined  as  a  religious  duty, 
rhe  Mohammedans  believe  in  resurrection,  heaven,  and  hell.  In 
heaven  are  all  manner  of  sensuous  delights.  In  heU  all  who  deny 
the  unity  of  Qod  will  be  tortured  eternally.  There  is  a  separate 
heaven  for  women,  but  most  of  them  will  find  their  way  to  hell. 
Mohfiunmed  enjoined  care  in  ablution  of  the  hands,  mouth,  and  nose, 
before  eating  or  praying.  The  Koran  forbids  the  drinking  of  wine, 
or  the  eating  of  the  flesh  of  swine.  Usury,  and  games  of  chance  are 
prohibited,  and  the  laws  against  idolatry  are  very  stringent.  Every 
man  may  have  four  wives,  and  some  concubine  slaves,  but  he  must 
not  look  upon  the  face  of  any  other  woman  except  a  near  relative. 
Hope  and  fear,  reward  and  punishment,  with  a  belief  in  predestina- 
tion, form  the  system  of  faith.  It  is  contrary  to  the  religion  of 
Mohammed  to  make  any  figure  or  representation  of  anything  living. 
There  are  two  main  Mohammedan  sects.  According  to  the  Sunnis  the 
.^ret  four  caliphs  (representatives)  after  Mohammed  are  Abubekr, 
Onaar,  Othman,  and  Ali  in  that  order.  The  Shias  consider  that  Ali 
was  the  first,  excluding  the  other  three. 

Eras. — ^The  Mohammedan  era  of  the  Hijrah  takes  its  name  from 
the  **  departure  **  of  Mohammed  from  Mecca  to  Medina  on  Friday  the 
116th  of  July  622  A.D.  This  date  was  ordered  by  the  Khalifah  Umar 
;to  be  used  as  their  era  by  Mohammedans.  Their  year  consists  of 
'{twelve  lunar  months,  as  follows  : — 

Ihharrani      ...  30  days. 

&&r      ....  29 

SOiolavval  80 

Mus-aani  .        .  29 

Slomda '1  awal     .  30 

Aooada 's-sani       .        .  29    .. 

=  354  days. 

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Rajah     . 

30 

Sh'aban. 

29 

Ramazan 

30 

Shawwal 

29 

Zik'adah 

30 

Zi  hijjah 

29 

Xlvi  MOHAMMEDAN  FESTIVALS  ItuIm 

Their  year,  therefore,  is  1 1  days  short  of  the  solar  year,  and  their 
New  Year's  Day  is  every  year  1 1  days  earlier  than  in  the  preceding  year. 
In  every  30  years  the  month  Zi  hijjah  is  made  to  consist  11  times  of 
30  days  instead  of  29,  which  accounts  for  the  9  hours  in  the  lunar 
year,  which  =  354  days,  9  hours.  To  bring  the  Hijrah  year  into  ac- 
cordance with  the  Christian  year,  express  the  former  in  years  and 
decimals  of  a  year,  and  multiply  by  -970225,  add  621*54,  and  the 
total  will  correspond  exactly  to  the  Christian  year.  Or  to  effect  the 
same  correspondence  roughly,  deduct  3  per  cent  from  the  Hijrah  year, 
add  621*54,  and  the  result  will  be  the  period  of  the  Christian  year 
when  the  Mohammedan  year  begins.  All  trouble,  however,  of  com- 
parison is  saved  by  Dr.  Ferdinand  Wiistenfeld's  Comparative  Tables, 
Leipzig,  1854. 

The  Tarilch  Ilahi,  or  Era  of  Akba/r,  and  the  Fasli  or  Harvest  Era 

These  eras  begin  from  the  commencement  of  Akbar's  reign  on  Friday 
the  6th  of  Rabi  ua-sani,  963  a.h.=  19th  of  February  1556.  To  make 
them  correspond  with  the  Christian,  593  must  be  added  to  the  former. 

Mohammedan  Festivals 

Bakari  *Id,  held  on  the  10th  of  Zi  hijjah  in  memory  of  Abraham's 
offering  of  Ishmael,  which  is  the  version  of  the  Koran.  Camels, 
cows,  sheep,  goats,  kids,  or  lambs  are  sacrificed. 

Muharram,  a  fast  in  remembrance  of  the  death  of  Hasan  and 
Husain,  the  sons  of  'Ali  by  Fatimah  the  daughter  of  Mohammed. 
Hasan  was  poisoned  by  Yezid  in  49  A.H.,  and  Husain  was  murdei'ed  at 
Karbala  on  the  10th  of  Muharram,  61  a.h.  =  9th  October  680  a.d. 
The  fast  begins  on  the  Ist  of  Muharram  and  lasts  10  days.  Moslems 
of  the  Shi'ah  persuasion  assemble  in  the  T'aziyah  Khana,  house  of 
mourning.  On  the  night  of  the  7th  an  image  of  Burak,  the  animal 
(vehicle)  on  which  Mohammed  ascended  to  heaven,  is  carried  in  proces- 
sion, and  on  the  10th  a  Tabut  or  bier.  The  Tabuts  are  thrown  into 
the  sea,  or  other  water,  and  in  the  absence  of  water  are  buried  in  the 
earth.  The  mourners  move  in  a  circle,  beating  their  breasts  with  cries 
of  '*  Ai  1  Hasan.  Ai  !  Husain.''  At  this  time  the  fanatical  spirit  is 
at  its  height,  and  serious  disturbances  often  take  place  (see  Hobson 
Jobson  in  Yule's  Glossary  of  Anglo-Indian  Terms), 

Akhiri  Ghahar  Shanibahj  held  on  the  last  Wednesday  of  Safar,  when 
Mohammed  recovered  a  little  in  his  last  illness  and  bathed  for  the  last 
time.  It  is  proper  to  write  out  seven  blessings,  wash  off  the  ink  and 
drink  it,  as  also  to  bathe  and  repeat  prayers. 

Bari  Wafat^  held  on  the  13th  of  Rabi  ul  avval  in  memory  of  Mo- 
hammed's death,  1 1  a.h. 

Pir-i'Dastgiry  held  on  the  10th  of  Rabi  us-sani  in  honour  of 
Saiyad  'Abdul  Kadir  Gilani,  called  Pir  Piran  or  Saint  of  Saints,  who 

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Introd.  MOHAMMEDAN    DATES  xlvii 

taught  and  died  at  Baghdad.  During  epidemics  a  green  flag  is  carried 
in  his  name. 

Chiraghom-^r-Zindah  Shah  Madar,  held  on  the  17th  of  Jumada  '1 
avral  in  honour  of  a  saint  who  lived  at  Makkhanpur,  and  who  is 
thought  to  be  still  alive,  whence  he  is  called  Zindah,  "  living." 

Urs-i-Kadvr  JFaU,  held  on  the  11th  of  Jumada's-sani,  in  honour  of 
Khwajah  Mu*in-ud-din  Chisti,  who  was  buried  at  A j mere  in  628  a.h. 

Muraj'i-Mvharnmad,  held  on  the  25th  of  Rajab,  when  the  Prophet 
ascended  to  heaven. 

Shdb'i'barat^  night  of  record,  held  on  the  16th  of  Sh'aban, 
when  they  say  men's  actions  for  next  year  are  recorded.  The 
Koran  ought  to  be  read  all  night,  and  the  next  day  a  fast  should 
be  observed. 

BaTnazany  the  month-long  h&t  of  the  Mohammedans.  The  night 
if  the  27th  is  called  Lailatu  '1-Kadr,  "night  of  power,"  because  the 
£(»ran  came  down  from  heaven  on  that  night. 

*Idu  'l-fttr,  the  festival  when  the  fast  of  the  Bamazan  is  broken. 
The  evening  is  spent  in  rejoicing  and  in  exhibitions  of  the  Nantch  girls. 

ChircLghan-i-Bamdah  Nwwaa,  held  on  the  16th  of  Zik'adah  in 
honour  of  a  saint  of  the  Chisti  family,  who  is  buried  at  Ealbarga  and 
is  also  called  Gisu  Daraz,  ^'  long  ringlets." 

Some  Mohammedan  Dates  AFrEcriNG  India 

A.D. 

Birth  of  Mohammed ,  570 

His  departure  from  Mecca  to  Medina.     The  h\jrah  era  .        .  622 

His  death 632 

Arab  invasions  of  Sind 647-828 

Ifahmud  of  Ghazni  defeats  the  Rajputs  at  Peshawar  1001 
Mahmud  captures  Somnath  in  Guzerat,  and  carries  off  the  temple 

gates  to  Ghazni 1024 

The  Afghans  of  Ghor  capture  Ghazni 1152 

Mohammed  of  Ghor  captures  Delhi 1193 

\utb-ud-din    (originally  a  slave)  proclaims  himself  sovereign  of 

India  at  Delhi 1206 

Altamsh  extends  the  empire  of  the  slave  dynasty  1229 
Ala>nd-din  conquers  Southern  India ;  defeats  several  Mogul  in- 

vaaions  from  Central  Asia 1295-1315 

Timur,  or  Tamerlane,  sacks  Delhi 1398 

Babar  the  Mogul,  sixth  in  descent  from  Timur,  defeats  the  Afghan 

Saltans  of  Delhi,  at  the  battle  of  Panipat 1524 

Babar  defeats  the  Rajputs  at  Fatehpur  Sikri  near  Agra                  .  1527 

Akbar  defeats  the  Afgnans  at  Panipat 1556 

Akbur   conquers   the  Rajputs,   annexes   Bengal,    Guzerat,    Sind, 

Cashmere,  and  Kandahar .1561-94 

Death  of  Akbar  at  Agra 1605 

Commencement  of  the  struggle  between  the  Mogul  Emperor  and 

tiMMarathas 1688 

Anmagzeb  captures  Sambhaji,  the  son  of  the  Maratha  chief  Sivaji, 

wi  puts  him  to  death 1689 

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xlviii                           SOVEREIGNS  WHO  REIGNED  AT  DELHI  India 

A.D. 

Death  of  Atuningzeb  ;  decline  of  the  Mognl  power ....  1707 

Rajputana  lost  to  the  Mofful 1715 

Defeat  and  persecution  of  the  Sikhi,  the  Mogul  putt  their  leader 

Banda  to  death  with  cruel  tortures 1716 

Kabul  severed  from  the  Moguls 1738 

Nadir  Shah,  king  of  Persia,  sacks  Delhi 1739 

The  Marathas  obtain  Malwa  ;  Oude  becomes  independent  of  Delhi  1743 

Hyderabad  becomes  independent 1748 

The  Marathas  obtain  Southern  Orissa  ;  and  tribute  from  Bengal .  1751 
Invasion  of  the  Afghan  Ahmad  Shah  Durani,  and  cession  of 

Punjab  to  him 1751-2 

Ahmad  Shah  Durani  sacks  Delhi 1758 

The  Marathas  capture  Delhi 1759 

Defeat  of  the  Marathas  by  the  Afghans  at  the  battle  of  Panipat    .  1761 

General  Lake  captures  Delhi 1803 


List  of  Soybbeigns  who  bKigned  at  Delhi  from  1193  to  1837  a.d. 
The  PathcMi,  Afghan,  or  Qhori  Kmgs  qf  Hindustan  who  reigned  at  Delhi, 


Muhammad  bin  Sam,  Ist  Dynasty    . 

Kutb-ud-din 

Aram  Shah 

Shams-ud-din  Altamsh     . 
Ruknu-din  Feroz      .... 
Sultanah  Riziah        .... 

Bahram 

A'lau-din 

Kasirn-din  Mahmud 

Balhan 

Eaikubad 

Jelalu-din  Feroz  Shah,  2nd  Dynasty. 
Kuknu-din  Ibrahim .... 
'Alau-din  Muhammad 
Shahabu-din  *Umar .... 
Kutbu-din  Mubarak 
Nasiru-din  Ehusru  .... 
Ghiasu-din  Tnghlak  Srd  Dynasty 
Muhammad  bin  Tughlak  . 

Feroz  Shah 

Tughlak 

Abubakr 

Muhammad  Shah     .        .        .        . 

Sikander 

Mahmud 

Nusrat  Shah 

Mahmud  restored  .... 
Daulat  Ehan  Lodi  .  .  .  . 
Ehizr  Khan  Sa'id,  ith  Dynasty 

Mubarak  Shah  II 

Muhammad  Shah 

'Alam  Shah 

Bahlol  Lodi,  5th  Dynasty 

Sikandar  

Ibrahim 


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A.H. 

A.D. 

589 

1193 

602 

1206 

607 

1210 

607 

1211 

638 

1236 

634 

1236 

637 

1240 

639 

1242 

643 

1246 

664 

1266 

686 

1289 

689 

1200 

696 

1296 

695 

1296 

716 

1816 

716 

1316 

720 

1821 

720 

1321 

725 

1325 

752 

1851 

790 

1388 

791 

1389 

793 

1891 

795 

1893 

795 

1398 

797 

1395 

802 

1400 

816 

1413 

817 

1414 

824 

1421 

887 

1434 

849 

144S 

855 

1451 

894 

148f 

923 

161^ 

Intnd. 


THE  HINDUS 


xlix 


The  Mogul  Emperors  of  HvndtLstcm, 

Babar     

Hnmayim 

Akbar 

Jekngir 

ShahJehan 

Anrangzeb 

Bahadur  Shah 

Jakndar  Sh^ 

Famikhsiyar    .         . 

Rjfiu-darjat 

Mu-daulat 

Nuhammad  Shah 

ilunadShah 

'ilamgirll 

WAlam ; 

Akbar  II.         ........ 

Bahadur  Shah ....... 


A.H. 

A.D. 

899 

1494 

937 

1531 

963 

1556 

1014 

1605 

1037 

1628 

1068 

1658 

1118 

1707 

1124 

1718 

1124 

1718 

1131 

1719 

1131 

1719 

1131 

1719 

1162 

1748 

1168 

1754 

1173 

1759 

1221 

1806 

1252 

1837 

THE  HINDUS 

The  first  form  of  the  Hindu  religion  was  Vedism,  the  worship  of 
i»ature,  as  represented  in  the  songs  and  prayers  collectively  called 
^eda.  Their  chief  gods  were  the  triad  Indra  (rain),  Agni  (fire),  and 
Surya  (sun).  Then  followed  Brahmanism,  from  hrihy  to  expand,  which 
introduced  the  idea  of  a  universal  spirit,  or  essence,  which  permeated 
tverything.  Men,  gods,  and  the  visible  world  were  merely  its  mani- 
festations. Prose  works,  called  Brahmanas,  were  added  to  the  Vedas, 
^  explain  the  sacrificeff,  and  the  duties  of  the  Brahmans,  or  priests. 
"Hie  oldest  of  these  may  have  been  written  about  700  b.o.  The  code 
of  Mann,  which  is  believed  to  have  originated  shortly  before  the 
^^^iristian  era,  lays  down  the  rules  of  domestic  conduct  and  ceremony. 
^t  divides  Hindus  into  four  castes.  First,  the  Brahmans ;  second, 
'^e  warriors,  called  Kshattriyas  or  Rajputs,  literally  "  of  the  royal 
^ock";  third,  the  agricultural  settlers,  called  Vaisyas.  All  these 
^ing  of  Aryan  descent^  were  honoured  by  the  name  of  the  Twice-born 
"*8te8.  Fourth,  were  the  Sudras,  or  conquered  non- Aryan  tribes,  who 
*<»me  serfs.  They  were  not  allowed  to  be  present  at  the  great 
'•^wnal  sacrifices,  or  at  the  feasts,  and  they  were  given  the  severest 
toO  in  the  fields,  and  the  dirty  work  of  the  village  community.  The 
^JertB  asserted  that  they,  the  Brahmans,  came  from  the  mouth  of 
^^•IfflMi ;  the  Rajputs  or  Kshattriyas  from  his  arms ;  the  Vaisyas  from 
^tkighs;  and  the  Sudras  from  his  feet  Caste  was  originally  a  dis- 
^ndia]  ^  ^    ^  ^  Googfe 


1  THE  HINDUS  India 

tinction  between  priest,  soldier,  artisan,  and  menial  Each  trade  in 
time  came  to  have  a  separate  caste.  The  priests  insisted  on  the  rales 
of  caste  as  a  means  of  securing  their  own  social  supremacy. 

The  modem  Hindu  religion  is  a  development  of  Brahmanism. 
There  is  one  impersonal  and  spiritual  Being  which  pervades  everything 
— one  Gk>d,  called  Brahma.  His  three  personal  manifestations  are  as 
Brahma,  the  Creator ;  Vishnu,  the  Preserver ;  and  Siva,  the  Destroyer 
and  Reproducer.  Brahma,  the  Creator,  is  generally  represented  with 
four  heads  and  four  arms,  in  which  he  holds  a  portion  of  the  Veda,  a 
spoon  for  lustral  observations,  a  rosary,  and  a  vessel  of  lustral  water 
(see  Plate).  Sarasvati,  the  wife  of  Brahma,  rides  on  a  peacock,  and 
has  a  musical  instrument,  the  "  vina,"  in  her  arms.  She  is  the  goddess 
of  music,  speech,  the  arts,  and  literature.  The  sin  of  lying  is  readily 
expiated  by  an  offering  to  her  (see  Plate). 

Vishnu  holds  a  quoit  in  one  hand,  a  conk  shell  in  another,  and  I 
sometimes  a  mace  or  club  in  another,  and  a  lotus  flower  in  a  fourth 
(see  Plate).  A  common  picture  shows  him  with  his  wife,  Lakshmi, 
sitting  on  Naga,  the  snake  (eternity),  with  Brahma  springing  on  a 
lotus  from  his  navel  (see  Plate).  He  is  said  to  have  come  down  from 
heaven  to  the  earth  nine  times,  and  is  expected  a  tenth  time.  These 
ten  incarnations  (avatara,  or  descents)  are — (1)  a  fish ;  (2)  a  tortoise  ; 
(3)  a  boar  ;  (4)  a  man  lion  ;  (5)  a  dwarf ;  (6)  Parasu  rama  ;  (7)  RamnOy 
the  hero  of  the  epic  poem,  the  Ramayana.  His  wife,  Sita,  was  carried 
off  by  Havana,  the  tyrant  king  of  Ceylon,  and  recovered  by  Rama  after 
making  a  bridge  of  rocks  to  the  island.  He  was  aided  by  Hanuman, 
a  non-Aryan  chief.  Rama  carries  a  bow  and  arrows  (see  Plate).  He  is 
revered  throughout  India  as  the  model  of  a  son,  a  brother,  and  a  hus- 
band. When  friends  meet  it  is  common  for  them  to  salute  each  other 
by  uttering  Rama's  name  twice.  No  name  is  more  commonly  given 
to  children,  or  more  commonly  invoked  at  funerals  and  in  the  hour  of 
death.  Hanvwman  is  represented  as  a  monkey,  his  images  being 
smeared  with  vermilion  (see  Plate).  He  is  worshipped  as  the  model 
of  a  faithful  devoted  servant  (8)  Krishna,,  whose  biography  is  given 
in  the  epic  poem,  Mahabharata,  although  himself  a  powerful  chief,  was 
brought  up  among  peasants,  and  is  peculiarly  the  god  of  the  lower 
classes.  As  a  boy  he  killed  the  serpent  Kaliya  by  trampling  upon  his 
head.  He  lifted  the  mountain-range  Qovardhana  on  his  finger  to 
shelter  the  herdsmen's  wives  from  the  wrath  of  Indra,  the  Vedic  rain- 
god.  Krishna  had  countless  wives  and  108,000  sons.  He  is  a  sen- 
suous god.  He  stands  on  a  snake  with  his  left  hand  holding  its  body, 
and  a  lotus  in  his  right  (see  Plate).  He  is  painted  blue.  Sometimes 
he  is  playing  the  flute.  (9)  Buddha.  The  adoption  of  Buddha  as  one 
of  the  incarnations  was  a  compromise  with  Buddhism.  (10)  Kalki. 
Vishnu  will  descend  as  an  armed  warrior  on  a  winged  white  horse 
for  the  purpose  of  dissolving  the  universe  at  the  close  of  the  fourth  or 

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Mrod.  THE  HINDUS  li 

Kali  age,  of  432,000  years,  when  the  world  has  become  wholly 
depraved- 
Devotion  to  Vishnu  in  his  human  incarnations  of  Rama  and 
Krishna  (who  were  real  men)  is  the  most  popular  religion  of  India. 
His  descents  upon  earth  were  for  the  delivery  of  men  from  the  three- 
fold miseries  of  life,  viz.  (1)  from  lust,  anger,  avarice,  and  their  evil 
consequences  ;  (2)  from  beasts,  snakes,  wicked  men,  etc, ;  (3)  from 
demons.  Vishnu  has  power  to  elevate  his  worshippers  to  eternal 
bliss  in  his  own  heaven. 

Vishnu's  wife  Lakshmi,  the  goddess  of  wealth  and  beauty,  sprang 
from  the  froth  of  the  ocean  when  churned  by  gods  and  demons  (see 
Pkte).  An  image  of  her  is  often  to  be  found  in  the  houses  of  shop- 
keepers. 

Siva  is  also  called  Mahadeva,  the  great  god,  and  his  wife  who  is 
known  by  several  names  and  in  several  characters  as  Parvati  (see  Plate) 
be  goddess  of  beauty,  Durga  or  Kali,  the  terrible  (see  Plate),  is  also 
tailed  Devi,  the  goddess  (see  Plate).  The  commonest  of  these  is  Kali, 
vho  requires  to  be  propitiated  by  sacrifices  (see  Plate).  Siva  holds 
%  trident,  an  antelope,  a  noose  for  binding  his  enemies,  and  a  kind 
of  drum  in  his  four  hands,  and  wears  a  tiger's  skin  about  the  loins 
(see  Plate).  He  is  a  less  human  and  more  mystical  god  than  Vishnu, 
and  is  worshipped  in  the  form  of  a  symbol,  the  linga,  or  as  a  bulL 
In  his  character  of  destroyer  Siva  haunts  cemeteries  and  burning- 
uTounds,  but  his  terrible  qualities  are  now  more  especially  associated 
with  his  wife  Kali.  He  is  the  impersonation  of  the  reproductive  power 
of  nature,  the  word  Siva  meaning  "blessed"  or  "auspicious."  He 
is  the  typical  ascetic  and  self-mortifier.  And  as  a  learned  philosopher 
he  is  the  chief  god  of  the  priests. 

Siva  has  two  sons  Ganesh,  or  Ganpati,  and  Kartikkeya.  Ganesh  has 
i  fat  body  and  an  elephant's  head  (see  Plate).  He  is  a  great  favourite, 
being  worshipped  for  good  luck  or  success.  It  is  as  a  bringer  of  success 
Jiat  he  is  invoked  at  the  beginning  of  every  Indian  book.  Kartikkeya 
lias  six  heads  and  twelve  arms,  and  is  a  warlike  god,  the  leader  of  the 
kets  of  good  demons  (see  Plate).  In  the  south  of  India  he  is  called 
Skanda  or  Subrahmanya. 

The  Hindu  theory  of  metempsychosis,  or  transmigration  of  souls, 
arises  from  the  belief  that  evil  proceeds  from  antecedent  evil,  and  that 
the  penalty  must  be  suffered  in  succeeding  existences.  According  to 
Hindu  belief  there  are  eighty-four  laks  of  different  species  of  animals 
diroiigh  which  the  soul  of  a  man  is  liable  to  pass,  and  the  Hindu's 
object  is  to  get  rid  of  the  series  of  perpetual  transmigrations  so  that  he 
may  live  in  the  same  heaven  with  the  personal  god.  To  this  end  he 
makes  offerings  to  the  image  of  a  god,  Krishna,  Ganesh,  or  Kali  being 
the  most  generally  selected  ;  he  abstains  from  killing  any  animal ;  he 
givw  money  to  the  priests ;  and  does  penances  which  sometimes  extend 

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Hi  THS  HINDUS  India 

to  severe  bodily  torture.  His  religion  amounts  to  little  more  than  the 
fear  of  demons,  of  the  loss  of  caste,  and  of  the  priests.  Demons  have 
to  be  propitiated,  the  caste  rules  strictly  kept,  and  the  priests  presented 
with  gifts.  Great  care  has  to  be  taken  not  to  eat  food  cooked  by  a 
man  of  inferior  caste  ;  food  cooked  in  water  must  not  be  eaten  together 
by  people  of  different  castes,  and  the  castes  are  entirely  separated  with 
regard  to  marriage  and  trades.  A  sacred  thread  of  cotton  is  worn  by 
the  higher  castes.  Washing  in  any  holy  river,  particularly  the  Qanges, 
and  more  especially  at  Allahabad,  Benares,  Hard  war,  and  other  excep- 
tionally holy  spots,  is  of  great  efficacy  in  preserving  caste,  and  cleansing 
the  soul  of  impurities. 

The  traveller  should  remember  that  all  who  are  not  Hindus  are 
outcasts,  contact  with  whom  may  cause  the  loss  of  caste  to  a  Hindu. 
He  should  not  touch  any  cooking  or  water-holding  utensil  belongingj 
to  a  Hindu,  nor  disturb  Hindus  when  at  their  meals ;  he  should  not 
molest  a  cow,  or  shoot  any  sacred  animal,  and  should  not  pollute  holy 
places  by  his  presence  if  any  objection  is  made.  The  most  sacred  of 
all  animals  is  the  cow,  then  the  serpent  and  the  monkey.  The  eagle 
(Gkiruda)  is  the  attendant  of  Vishnu,  the  bull  of  Siva,  the  goose  of 
JBrahma,  the  elephant  of  Indra,  the  tiger  of  Durga,  the  buffalo  of  Rama, 
the  rat  of  Qanesh,  the  ram  of  Agni,  the  peacock  of  Eartikkeya,  the 
ps^rot  of  Kama  (the  god  of  love) ;  the  fish,  tortoise,  and  boar  are 
incarnations  of  Vishnu  ;  and  the  crocodile,  cat>  dog,  crow,  many  trees, 
plants,  stones,  rivers  and  tanks,  ^re  sacred. 

The  Kali-Yvg^  or  Hindu  Era 

According  to  the  Hindus,  the  world  is  now  in  its  4th  Yug,  or  Age, 
the  Kali- Yug,  which  commenced  from  the  equinox  in  18th  Feb.  3102 
B.C.,  and  will  last  432,000  years.  The  3  preceding  ages  were  the 
Satya,  the  Treta,  and  the  Dwapara.  The  Satya,  or  Age  of  Truth, 
lasted  1,728,000  years;  the  Treta  (from  tra^  "to  preserve")  lasted 
1,296,000;  and  the  Dwapara  (from  dwa,  "two,"  and  pa/r^  "after") 
864,000  years. 

The  Era  of  Vilcramaditya  or  Samtoat 

This  era  commenced  from  the  first  year  of  King  Vikramaditya,  who 
began  to  reign  at  Ujjain  57  b.c. 

The  Shaka  Era,  or  Era  of  Shalivahana 

Shalivahana,  having  a  shall  (lion)  for  his  vehicle  (vahana),  was  a 
king  who  reigned  in  the  S.  of  India.  The  Shaka  era  dates  from  his 
birth  78  A.D. 

Era  of  Pa/rashurama 

This  era  is  current  in  Malabar  and  Travancore,  and  dates  from  a 
king  of  that  name,  who  reigned  1176  A.D. 

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PLATE   1 


4 

1 

s 

*7a 

Lakshmi 

1 

) 

Pafu^tj 

C^^^c-,.^/-. 

j^D^rga  or  Kali 

Dew 

Kartikket/a 

Ganesh 

Hanuman 

Rama 

To  face  p.  m. 


Some  Common  Forms  of  Hindu  Gods 


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PLATE  2. 


Some  Common  Forms  of  Hindu  Gods, 


y     u 


o 

5 


1,2,8,  and  4,  Followers  of  Vishrni. 
5,  6,  7,  and  8,  Followers  of  Siva. 

Caste  Marks. 


;  Buddha 


(  Teaching) 


Buddha 


(ConteMpkting) 


Buddha. 


Buddha 


(ReyiouMcingthe  WorJdJ 


TofoUow  Plate  1  after  p.  lii.^ 


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Introd. 


HINDU  FESTIVALS 


liii 


The  Hindu  year  has  6  seasons  or  ritiis :  Vasantay "  spring/*  gnshma^ 
"the  hot  season/'  varsha,  "the  rains,"  sharada,  "the  autumn"  (from 
shri,  "to  wither"),  hemanta,  "the  winter,"  shisMra,  "the  cool  season." 

Table  of  the  Seasons  and  Months  in  Sanscrit,  ffiTuht,  and  English 


1.  Vasanta     . 

2.  Gbishma     . 

3.  Varsha  .     . 

4.  Sharada    . 

5.  Hemanta    . 

6.  Shishira    . 

Names  of  Months. 

Sanscrit. 

Hindu. 

English. 

/  Chaitra. 
t  Vaishakha. 
/  lyeshtha. 
1  A'shadha. 
J  Sravana. 
1  Bhadra. 
J  Ashwina. 
iKartika. 
/  Marffasirsha. 
1  Paaiha. 
/Magha. 
1  Phalgona. 

Chait. 

Baisakh. 

Jeth. 

Asarh. 

Sawan. 

Bhadon. 

Asan. 

Kartik. 

Aghan. 

Pus. 

Magh. 

Phagun. 

April 
May.    ) 
June.   } 
July.      1 
August,  j 
September.  \ 
October.        \ 
November.  \ 
December.    / 
January. 
February. 
March. 

Hindu  Festivals 

MaJcar  Sankrcmti, — On  the  1st  of  the  month  Magh  (about  12th 
January)  the  sun  enters  the  sign  Capricorn  or  Makar.  From  this  day 
till  the  arrival  of  the  sun  at  the  N.  point  of  the  zodiac  the  period  is 
called  Uttarayana,  and  from  that  time  till  he  returns  to  Makar  is 
Dakshinayana,  the  former  period  being  lucky  and  the  latter  unlucky. 
At  this  festival  the  Hindus  bathe,  and  rub  themselves  with  sesamum 
oiL  They  also  invite  Brahmans  and  give  them  pots  full  of  sesamum 
seed.  They  wear  new  clothes  with  ornaments,  and  distribute  sesamum 
seed  mixed  with  sugar. 

Vasamt  Panchami  is  on  the  5th  day  of  the  light  half  of  Magh,  and 
is  a  festival  in  honour  of  Vasanta  or  Spring. 

Shdvaraij  the  night  of  Shiva,  is  held  about  the  middle  or  end  of 
February,  when  Shiva  is  worshipped  with  flowers  during  the  whole 
night. 

HoH. — ^A  festival  in  honour  of  Krishna,  held  fifteen  days  before  the 
moon  is  at  its  fcdl,  in  the  month  Phagun,  celebrated  with  the  squirting 
or  throwing  of  red  or  yellow  powder  over  every  one.  All  sorts  of  licence 
are  indulged  in.     It  is  a  kind  of  carnival. 

Qudhfi  Pada/va,  on  the  Ist  of  Chait.  The  leaves  of  the  Melia 
Azadvr<ichia  are  eaten.  On  this  day  the  New  Year  commences,  and 
the  Almanac  for  that  year  is  worshipped. 

Ramanavami,  held  on  the  9th  of  Chait,  in  honour  of  Eamachan- 
dra,  who  was  bom  on  this  day  at  Ayodhya.     A  small  image  of  Rama 

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liv  HINDU  FESTIVALS  India 

is  put  into  a  cradle  and  worshipped,  and  red  powder  called  giUal  is 
thrown  about. 

Vada  SavUri,  held  on  the  15th  of  Jeth,  when  women  worship 
the  Indian  fig  tree. 

Ashadhi  Ekadashiy  the  1 1th  of  the  month  Asarh,  sacred  to  Yishnn, 
when  that  deity  reposes  for  4  months. 

Nag  Paruiiham%  held  on  the  5th  of  Sawan,  when  the  serpent  Kali 
is  said  to  have  been  killed  by  Krishna.  Ceremonies  are  performed  to 
avert  the  bite  of  snakes. 

NaraU  Pumimay  held  on  the  1 5th  of  Sawan.  The  stormy  season 
is  then  considered  over,  and  oflPerings  of  cocoa-nuts  are  thrown  into  the 
sea  on  the  west  coast. 

Gokul  Ashtami,  held  on  the  8th  of  the  dark  half  of  Sawan,  when 
Krishna  is  said  to  have  been  bom  at  Qokul.  Rice  may  not  be  eaten  on  thii 
day,  but  fruits  and  other  grains.  At  night  Hindus  bathe  and  worship 
an  image  of  Krishna,  adorning  it  with  the  Ocymum  sanctum.  The 
chief  votary  of  the  temple  of  Kanhoba  dances  in  an  ecstatic  fashion,  and 
is  worshipped  and  receives  large  presents.  He  afterwards  scourges  the 
spectators. 

Pitri  Amavasyay  held  on  the  30th  of  Sawan,  when  Hindus  go 
to  Yalkeshwar  in  Bombay  and  bathe  in  the  tank  called  the  Banganga, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  produced  by  Kama,  who  pierced  the 
ground  with  an  arrow  and  brought  up  the  water.  Shraddas  or  cere- 
monies in  honour  of  departed  ancestors  are  performed  on  the  side  ol 
the  tank. 

Oam^esh  GhaJtwihi^  held  on  the  4th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  ol 
Ganesh,  a  clay  image  of  whom  is  worshipped  and  Brahmans  are 
entertained.  The  Hindus  are  prohibited  from  looking  at  the  moon 
on  this  day,  and  if  by  accident  they  should  see  it,  they  get 
themselves  abused  by  their  neighbours  in  the  hope  that  this  wil] 
remove  the  curse. 

BiM,  PancJiarm,  held  on  the  day  following  Gkmesh  Chaturthi,  ii 
honour  of  the  7  Rishia 

Gauri  Vahan,  held  on  the  7th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of  Shiva'i 
wife,  called  Qauri  or  the  Fair.  Cakes  in  the  shape  of  pebbles  are  eatei 
by  women. 

Woman  Dwadashi,  on  the  12th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of  the  5tl 
incarnation  of  Vishnu,  who  assumed  the  shape  of  a  dwarf  to  destroj 
Bali 

Anamt  Chaturdashiy  held  on  the  14th  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  d 
Ananta,  the  endless  serpent  I 

Pitri  PaJe»hy  held  on  the  last  day  of  Bhadon,  in  honour  of  thii 
Pitras  or  Ancestors,  when  oflPerings  of  fire  and  water  are  made  v 
them. 

Daaara,  held  on  the  10th  of  Asan,  in  honour  of  Durga,  who 

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Introd,  THE  BUDDHISTS  Iv 

this  day  slew  the  buffalo-headed  demon  Maheshasiir.  On  this  day 
Bama  marched  against  Havana,  and  for  this  reason  the  Marathas  chose 
it  for  their  expeditions.  Branches  of  the  Bviea  frondosa  are  offered  at 
the  temples.  This  is  an  auspicious  day  for  sending  children  to  school. 
The  9  preceding  days  are  called  Navaratra,  when  Brahmans  are  paid  to 
ledte  hymns  to  Durga. 

DiwcUi,  "  feast  of  lamps/'  from  dfimif  "  a  lamp,"  and  ali,  "  a  row," 
held  on  the  new  moon  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of  Kali  or  Bhawani,  and 
more  particularly  of  Lakshmi,  when  merchants  and  bankers  count  their 
wealth  and  worship  it  It  is  said  that  Vishnu  killed  a  giant  on  that 
day,  and  the  women  went  to  meet  him  with  lighted  lamps.  In 
memory  of  this  lighted  lamps  are  set  afloat  in  rivers  and  in  the  sea, 
and  auguries  are  drawn  from  them  according  as  they  shine  on  or  are 

extinguislied. 

Bali  Pratipada  is  held  on  the  1st  day  of  Kartik,  when  Hindus  fill 

a  basket  with  rubbish,  put  a  lighted  lamp  on  it,  and  throw  it  away 

outside  the  house,  saying,  **  Let  troubles  go  and  the  kingdom  of  Bali 

come." 

Kartik  Ekadashiy  held  on  the  11th  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of  Vishnu, 

who  is  said  then  to  rise  from  a  slumber  of  4  months. 

Kartik  Pumvma,  held  on  the  full  moon  of  Kartik,  in  honour  of 

Shiva,  who  destroyed  on  that  day  the  demon  Tripurasura. 

THE  BUDDHISTS 

Gkiutama,  afterwards  called  Buddha  (the  enlightened),  was  bom  in 
the  sixth  century  B.C.  His  father  was  a  prince  of  the  Sakya  tribe,  and 
of  the  Kshattriya  or  Rajput  caste.  Driving  in  his  pleasure  grounds 
Qautama  met  a  man  bowed  down  with  age ;  then  a  man  stricken  with 
incurable  disease ;  then  a  corpse ;  and  finally  an  ascetic  walking  in  a 
calm  and  dignified  manner.  Much  troubled  by  the  spectacle  of  human 
suffering,  he  decided  to  leave  his  happy  home,  his  loved  wife,  and  the 
child  which  had  just  been  born  to  him  ;  he  cut  off  his  long  hair ; 
exchanged  his  princely  raiment  for  the  rags  of  a  passer-by ;  and  went 
on  alone  as  a  homeless  beggar.  This  is  called  the  Great  Renunciation. 
He  studied  under  two  Brahman  hermits  in  the  Patna  district,  who 
taught  him  to  mortify  the  body.  For  six  years  he  inflicted  severe 
austerities  upon  himself,  and  gradually  reduced  his  food  to  a  grain  of 
rice  per  diem.  But  no  peace  of  mind  or  divine  enlightenment  came. 
He  thereupon  gave  up  penance  and  sat  in  meditation  under  a  fig  tree 
(the  Pipal),  where  he  was  tempted  by  Mara,  the  personification  of 
carnal  desire,  to  return  to  his  home  and  the  world,  but  he  resisted  and 
thns  became  the  Enlightened. 

Buddha  taught  that  all  life  is  suffering ;  that  suffering  arises  from 
indulging  desires,  especially  the  desire  for  continuity  of  life  ;  and  that 

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Ivi  BUDDHIST  FESTIVALS  India 

the  only  hope  of  relief  lies  in  the  suppression  of  desire  and  the  ex- 
tinction of  existence.  A  man's  object  should  be  to  become  enlightened 
by  meditation  and  introspection,  so  as  to  earn  a  cessation  of  the  cycle 
of  lives  through  which  he  would  otherwise  be  destined  to  pass,  and 
thus  finally  to  reach  nirvana,  which  puts  an  end  to  all  re^  birth.  He 
should  accumulate  merit  with  the  object  of  annihilating  all  conscious- 
ness  of  self;  he  should  respect  the  life  of  all  creation  in  order  to  earn 
the  extinction  of  his  own.  In  this  task  he  must  depend  upon  himself 
alone,  and  not  upon  any  spiritual  aid  or  guidance.  ^1  men  are 
capable  of  attaining  nirvana,  without  distinction  of  caste,  and  neither 
sacrifices  nor  bodily  mortifications  are  of  any  avaiL  It  is  a  pessimist 
and  atheist  creed,  to  which,  however,  excellent  moral  rules  have  been 
attached.  Buddhism  gave  some  encouragement  to  education  ;  it  in- 
culcated universal  benevolence  and  compassion;  and  stimulated  exertion 
by  declaring  that  a  man's  future  depended,  not  upon  sacrifices  and 
self-torture,  but  upon  his  own  acts.  It  is  *'  the  embodiment  of  the 
eternal  verity  that  as  a  man  sows  he  will  reap ;  associated  with  the 
personal  duties  of  mastery  over  self  and  kindness  to  all  men  ;  and 
quickened  into  a  popular  religion  by  the  example  of  a  noble  and 
beautiful  life"  (Sir  W.  W.  Hunter).  "It  substituted  a  religion  of 
emotion  and  sympathy  for  one  of  ceremonial  and  do^ma  "  (H.  G.  Keene). 
It  never  ousted  Brahmanism  from  India,  but  the  two  systems  existed 
together  from  about  b.c.  500  to  a.d.  800,  when  it  finally  disappeared 
from  India  (except  Ceylon).  Sir  Monier  Williams  estimates  that 
there  are  not  more  than  100,000,000  Buddhists  in  the  world,  and 
that  this  number  is  decreasing.  Buddha  is  generally  represented  in 
one  of  three  attitudes  ;  he  sits  cross-legged,  either  with  his  hands  in 
contact  in  an  attitude  of  profound  meditation,  or  with  one  hand  point- 
ing to  the  earth,  or  with  both  hands  raised  in  the  preaching  posture. 
His  ears  sometimes  reach  to  his  shoulders  (see  Plate). 

The  small  sect  of  Jains  are  the  only  Buddhists  left  in  India  (if 
Ceylon  be  excluded).  Their  founder  was  Mahavira,  a  contemporary 
of  Qautama.  The  Jains  consider  bodily  torture  to  be  necessary  to 
salvation ;  they  do  not  agree  with  other  Buddhists  in  denying  the 
existence  of  a  soul,  but  believe  that  even  inorganic  matter  has  a  soul, 
and  that  a  man's  soul  may  pass  into  a  stone.  They  carry  the  Buddhist's 
concern  for  animal  life  to  an  extreme.  Their  figures  of  Buddha  are 
naked. 

Buddhist  Festivals 

The  New  Year  Festival  corresponds  to  the  Makara-sankranti  of 
the  Hindus  (see  p.  liii),  but  in  Burma  it  often  takes  place  as  late  as 
April  At  a  given  moment,  which  is  ascertained  by  the  astrologers  of 
Mandalay,  a  cannon  is  fired  off  announcing  the  descent  of  the  King  of 
the  Naths  (genii)  upon  earth.     Then  begin  the  Saturnalia. 

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Inirod.  HINDU  AND  BDDDHIST  dates — THE  SIKHS  Ivii 

The  last  birth  of  Qautama  is  celebrated  at  the  end  of  April  or 
beginning  of  May  by  the  worship  of  his  images,  followed  by  processions. 

The  festival  of  lamps,  corresponding  to  the  Hindu  **  diwali "  (see 
p.  \y,)y  occurs  at  the  end  of  the  rainy  season,  and  is  a  day  of  rejoicing. 

In  Ceylon  the  coming  of  the  Buddha  to  their  island  is  celebrated 
by  a  festival  in  March  or  April,  when  the  pilgrims  visit  either  his 
fbotprint  on  Adam's  Peak,  or  the  sacred  £o-tree  at  Anuradhapura. 


Some  eablt  Hindu  and  Buddhist  dates 

B.a 

The  Yedas  or  hymns (probably  about)  1400-800 

Birth  of  Gautama  Buddha  (the  Enlightened)   .  (probably)  557 

Death  of  Buddha ;  First  Great  CounoU  of  Buddhists  (probably)  478 

Second  Great  Buddhist  Council 378 

Alexander  the  Great  crosses  the  Indus  near  Attock  ;  defeats  Poms 
at  the  passage  of  the  Jhelum  (Hvdaspes) ;  captures  Mooltan,  where 
he  is  severely  wounded ;  and  tnen  retires  to  Persia  via  Karachi 
and  Baluchistan,  leaving  Greek  garrisons  behind  him  .  327-6 
Chandra  Gupta,  a  Hindu,  conquers  the  Gangetio  valley  .  316 
Chandra  Gupta  receives  a  Greek  ambassador,  named  Megastheues    .  306 
Asoka,  grandson  of  Chandra  Gupta,  is  converted  to  Buddhism         .          257 
Asoka  convenes  the  third  Buddnist  Council  at  Patna,  and  dissemi- 
nates the  principles  of  the  faith 244 

The  Mahabharata,  an  epic  poem  of  the  heroic  age  in  Northern 
India  ;  the  Ramayana,  an  epic  poem  relating  to  the  Aryan  advance 
into  Southern  India  (of  about  1000  B.C.) ;  and  the  code  of  Manu 
laying  down  the  laws  and  ceremonies  for  Brahmans — are  all  of 

uncertain  age, but  may  date  from 200-500 

The  era  of  Samwat  dates  from  Yikramadilhra,  of  Ujjain,  who  with- 
stood the  inroads  of  the  Scythians.  The  drama  of  Sakuntala, 
or  the  lost  ring 57 

A.D 

The  Northern  form  of  Buddhism  becomes  one  of  the  State  religions 

of  China 66 

The  era  of  Saka  dates  from  Salivahana 78 

The  fourth  and  last  Buddhist  Council  held  under  the  Scythian  King 

K%Tii«hVii. (about)  100 

Pilgrimage  of  the  Chinaman  Fa  Hiang  to  Buddhist  shrines  in  India  400 

Similar  pilgrimage  of  the  Chinaman  fiiouen  Thsang  629-45 

The  Vishnuite  doctrines  embodied  in  the  Vishnu  Purana                  .  1045 
Birth  of  Nanak  Shah,  a  Hindu  reformer,  who  preaches  the  abolition 

of  caste  and  establiishes  the  Sikh  religion 1469 


THE   SIKHS 

The  Sikhs  are  a  sect  of  Hindus  who  follow  a  reformer  named 
Kaoak  Shah,  who  was  bom  near  Lahore  in  1469.  The  word  Sikh 
means  a  "  disciple "  of  the  Guru  or  teacher.  Except  in  denouncing 
idolatry  and  in  welcoming  all  ranks,  without  distinction  of  caste, 

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Iviii  THE  8IKHS  India 

Nanak's  pliilosophy  was  very  similar  to  that  of  the  worshippers  of 
Vishnu.  Quru  Qovind  finally  abolished  caste,  established  the  Sikh 
religion  on  a  political  and  military  basis,  and  stimulated  the  worship 
of  the  Qranth,  or  holy  book,  which  is  now  the  chief  Sikh  god. 

In  the  middle  of  the  16th  century  the  Sikhs,  who  had  been 
gradually  rising  into  power,  struggled  with  the  Afghans  for  supremacy 
in  the  Punjab.  In  1716  their  last  Quru,  Banda,  was  tortured  to 
death  by  the  Mogul  In  1764  they  fought  a  long  and  doubtful  battle 
with  the  Afghan  Ahmad  Shah  Durani,  in  the  vicinity  of  Amritsar. 
They  then  captured  Lahore,  destroyed  many  mosques,  and  made  their 
Afghan  prisoners,  in  chains,  wash  the  foundations  with  the  blood  of 
swine. 

From  this  period,  1764,  the  Sikhs  became  the  ruling  power  in  the 
Punjab.  The  following  is  a  chronological  table  of  their  Gurus,  or 
spiritual  leaders.  Govind  refused  to  name  a  successor.  He  said : — 
"  He  who  wishes  to  behold  the  Guru,  let  him  search  the  Granth." 

GUBUS  OF  THE  SiKHS 

A.  Si. 

1.  Nanak,  founder  of  the  Sikh  sect,  born  1469,  died  ....  1539 

2.  ADi,ad 1562 

3.  Amara  das ^ 1552 

4.  Ram  das,  built  the  lake  temple  at  Amritsar 1574 

5.  Arjun  Mai,  compiled  the  Adi  GrarUh 1581 

6.  Har  Govind,  first  warlike  leader 1606 

7.  Har  Eae,  his  grandson 1644 

8.  Har  Krishna,  died  at  Delhi 1661 

9.  Tegh  Bahadur,  put  to  death  by  Aurangzeb  in  1676       .        .         .1664 

10.  Govind,  remodelled  the  Sikh  Government 1675 

11.  Banda 1708 

The  Sikhs  were  now  formed  into  confederacies  called  Misls,  each 
under  a  Sirdar,  or  chief.     These  were — 

1.  Bhangi,  called  from  their  fondness  for  bhang,  extract  of  hemp. 

2.  Nishani,  standard-bearers. 

3.  Shahid  or  Nihang,  martyrs  and  zealots. 

4.  Ram^arhi,  from  Kamgarh,  at  Amritsar. 

5.  Nakeia,  fh)m  a  country  so  called. 

6.  Alhnwali,  from  the  village  in  which  Jassa  lived, 

7.  Ghaneia  or  Ehaneia. 

8.  Faizulapuri  or  SlnghpurL 

9.  Sukarchakia, 

10.  Dalahwala. 

11.  Erora  Singhia  or  Panigarhia. 

12.  PhuUda. 

All  the  other  Mills  were,  about  the  year  1823,  gubdued  by  Ranji 
Sing  of  the  Sukarchakia,  and  for  a  long  time  Ranjit  was  liie  znos 
prominent  personage  in  India.     He  died  in  1839. 


) 


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Mrod.  THB  PAR8IS  liz 


THE  PARSIS 

The  Parsis,  formerly  inhabitants  of  Persia,  are  the  modem  followers 
of  Zoroaster,  and  now  form  a  numerous  and  influential  portion  of  the 
population  of  Surat  and  Bombay. 

When  the  Empire  of  the  Sassanides  was  destroyed  by  the  Saracens, 
about  650  A.D.,  t^e  Zoroastrians  were  persecuted,  and  some  of  them 
fled  to  Hindustan,  where  the  Rajah  of  Guzerat  was  their  principal 
protector.  They  suflfered  considerably  from  the  persecution  of  Moham- 
medans until  the  time  of  the  British  occupation.  Their  worship,  in 
the  course  of  time,  became  corrupted  by  Hindu  practices,  and  the 
reverence  for  fire  and  the  sun,  as  emblems  of  the  glory  of  Ormuzd, 
degenerated  into  idolatrous  practices.  The  sacred  fire,  which  Zoroaster 
was  said  to  have  brought  from  heaven,  is  kept  burning  in  consecrated 
spots,  and  temples  are  built  over  subterranean  fires.  Priests  tend  the 
fires  on  the  altars,  chanting  hymns  and  burning  incense.  A  partially 
successful  attempt  was  made  in  1862  to  restore  the  creed  of  Zoroaster 
to  its  original  purity.  In  order  not  to  pollute  the  elements,  which 
they  adore,  they  neither  bum  nor  bury  their  dead,  but  expose  their 
corpses  to  be  devoured  by  carnivorous  birds  (see  Towers  of  Silence, 
Bombay).  There  is  now  a  marked  desire  on  the  part  of  the  Parsis  to 
adapt  themselves  to  the  manners  and  customs  of  Europeans.  The 
public  and  private  schools  of  Bombay  are  largely  attended  by  their 
children,  and  every  effort  is  made  to  procure  the  translation  of  English 
works.  Many  follow  commercial  pursuits,  and  several  of  the  wealthiest 
merchants  of  India  are  members  of  this  religious  community. 

Pabsi  Months 

There  are  12  months,  of  30  days  each,  and  6  days  are  added  at 
the  end.     They  approximate  as  below  to  the  English  montha 


1.  Farvardin,  September. 

2.  Ardibihisht,  October. 

3.  Khurdad,  November. 

4.  Tir,  December. 

5.  Amardad,  January. 

6.  Sharivar,  February. 


7.  Mihr,  March. 

8.  Aban,  April. 

9.  Adar,  May. 

10.  Deh,  June. 

11.  Bahman,  July. 

12.  Asfandiyar,  August 


The  Parsi  Festivals 

PcUati,  New  Year's  Day.  The  Ist  of  Farvardin.  The  Parsis  rise 
earlier  than  usual,  put  on  new  clothes,  and  pray  at  the  Fire  Temples. 
They  then  visit  friends  and  join  hands,  distribute  alms  and  give 
clothes  to  servants  and  others.  This  day  is  celebrated  in  honour  of 
the  accession  of  Yezdajird  to  the  throne  of  Persia,  632  a.d. 

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Ix  PA.RBI  FESTIVALS — ARCHITECTURE  India 

Farvardin-JasaUf  on  the  19th  of  Farvardin,  on  which  ceremonies 
are  performed  in  honour  of  the  dead  called  Frohars  or  "  protectors." 
There  are  1 1  other  Jasans  in  honour  of  various  angels. 

Khurdad'Sal,  the  birthday  of  Zoroaster,  who  is  said  to  have  been 
bom  1200  B.O.  at  the  city  of  Rai  or  Rhages  near  Teheran. 

Jamshidi  Naurog^  held  on  the  2l8t  of  Mihr.  It  dates  from  the  time 
of  Jamshid,  and  the  Parsis  ought  to  commence  their  New  Year  from  it. 

ZaHa^  Diso,  held  on  the  11th  of  Deh  in  remembrance  of  the 
death  of  Zartasht  or  Zoroaster. 

Muktady  held  on  the  last  ten  days  of  the  Zoroastrian  year,  including 
the  last  five  days  of  the  last  month,  and  the  five  intercalary  days  called 
the  Gatha  Gahamhars.  A  clean  place  in  the  house  is  adorned  with  fruits 
and  flowers,  and  silver  or  brass  vessels  filled  with  water  are  placed  there. 
Ceremonies  are  performed  in  honour  of  the  souls  of  the  dead. 

ARCHITEOTURE 

Rbliqion  has  so  great  an  influence  upon  architecture  that  we  may 
most  conveniently  classify  the  different  styles  in  India  as  Buddhist, 
Brahman,  and  Mohammedan. 

Buddhist, — Although  Gautama  preached  600  B.C.,  his  religion  made 
little  progress  before  its  adoption  by  the  great  Asoka,  who  reigned 
from  272  to  236  ac.  The  palaces,  halls,  and  temples  which  may 
have  existed  before  the  time  of  Asoka  were  made  of  wood,  and  have 
perished.  There  was  no  stone  architecture  in  India  before  Asoka, 
and  all  the  monuments  known  to  us  for  five  or  six  centuries  after  his 
date  are  Buddhist. 

Every  Buddhist  locality  was  sanctified  by  the  presence  of  relics, 
which  were  contained  in  dagobas,  or  topes.  Some  topes  were  without 
relics,  the  oldest  and  simplest  form  of  tope  being  a  single  pillar 
(sthambra)  either  regularly  built,  or  carved  out  of  one  stone,  in  which 
case  it  was  called  a  lat  Where  a  tope  had  relics,  they  were  con- 
tained in  a  sort  of  box  or  case  at  the  summit  of  the  tope,  called  a  tee. 
Rails  are  found  surrounding  topes,  or  enclosing  sacred  trees,  pillars, 
eta  Chaityas,  assembly  halls  or  temples,  correspond  to  the  churches 
of  the  Christian  religion.     Yiharas  are  monasteries. 

The  best  known  topes  are  those  at  Bhilsa,  Sarnath,  and  Buddh 
Qaya.  There  are  also  a  number  of  them  scattered  over  the  ancient 
province  of  Qandara,  the  capital  of  which  was  Peshawar — especially  at 
Manikyala.  In  Ceylon  there  are  topes  or  dagobas  at  Anuradhapura 
and  Pollonarua.  The  lats,  or  pillars,  stood  in  front  of,  or  beside,  each 
gateway  of  every  tope,  and  in  front  of  each  chaitya  hall.  Asoka  was 
the  great  builder  of  pillars.  Two  of  his  are  still  in  existence  at 
Delhi,  and  a  more  complete  specimen  at  Allahabad.  The  iron  pillar 
in   the   mosque   at  old  Delhi  is   not  Buddhist,   but   seems   to    be 

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Intmd.  ABOHITBCTURB  Ixi 

dedicated  to  Vishnu.  The  most  interesting  rails  are  at  Sanchi  and 
Buddh  Gaya ;  the  remains  of  the  Bharhut  rail  are  at  Calcutta,  and 
of  the  Amaravati  rail  in  the  British  and  Madras  Museums.  There  are 
good  examples  of  torans,  or  gateways,  with  the  rail  at  Sanchi. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  chaitya  halls  or  temples,  and  the  Viharas 
(monasteries),  is  derived  from  the  rock-cut  examples.  This  method  of 
working  is  much  easier  and  less  expensive  than  the  ordinary  process 
of  buUding.  For  a  cave  nothing  hut  excavation  is  required ;  while 
for  a  building  the  stone  has  to  be  quarried,  transported — perhaps  a 
long  distance — and  then  carved  and  erected.  According  to  Fergusson  ^ 
the  complete  excavation  of  a  temple,  both  externally  as  well  as 
internally,  would  cost  only  about  one-tenth  of  the  expenditure 
necessary  for  building ;  and  the  Buddhist  caves  were  still  cheaper,  as 
the  rock  was  not  cut  away  externally,  the  interior  chamber  alone 
being  excavated.  Examples  of  Chaityas  are  to  be  found  at  Karli, 
Bhaja  and  Bedsa,  Behar,  Nassick,  EUora,  Ajanta,  and  Eanhari.  The 
vihara  is  a  kind  of  court  with  cells,  galleries  two  or  three  stories  high, 
and  richly  carved  pillars.  The  most  notable  specimens  are  at 
Udayagiri  and  Khandagiri,  Bhaja  and  Bedsa,  Ajanta,  NhSsick,  Bagh, 
Salsette,  Dumnar,  EUora,  Jamalgarhi,  and  Takht-i-bahi  (near  Peshawar). 

The  architecture  of  the  Buddhists  proper  was  succeeded  by  that 
of  the  JainSy  who  are  the  only  followers  of  that  religion  remaining  in 
India  (excepting  Ceylon).  The  Jains  were  great  builders.  Unlike 
the  Buddhists  they  were  not  great  cave-cutters,  though  some  examples 
of  their  cave- work  exist  at  EUora.  The  characteristic  Jain  feature  is  the 
horizontal  archway,  which  avoids  the  strain  from  the  outward  thrust 
of  a  true  radiating  arch.  Indeed,  with  the  exception  of  some 
specimens  of  the  time  of  Akbar,  no  radiating  arch  exists  in  any 
Baddhist,  Jain,  or  Hindu  temple  in  India  up  to  the  present  day. 
Another  Jain  feature  is  the  carved  bracket  form  of  capital,  which, 
springing  from  the  piUars  at  about  two-thirds  of  their  height,  extends 
to  the  architraves,  and  forms  a  sort  of  diagonal  strut  to  support  them. 
The  leading  idea  of  the  plan  of  a  Jain  temple  was  a  number  of 
columns  arranged  in  squares.  Their  domes,  like  their  arches,  were 
bmlt  horizontally,  on  eight  pUlars  forming  an  octagon,  with  four 
external  pillars  at  the  angles  to  form  a  square.  The  lateral  pressure  of 
a  dome  built  on  the  radiating  plan  by  the  Roman,  Byzantine,  or  Gtothic 
architects  prevents  the  use  of  elegant  pillars,  great  cyUnders  with 
heavy  abutments  being  necessary.  The  decoration  of  the  Jain  domes, 
being  horizontal,  allows  of  more  variety  than  can  be  given  to  the 
vertical  ribs  of  Roman  or  Gk)thic  models,  and  has  rendered  some  of 
the  Indian  domes  the  most  exquisite  specimens  of  elaborate  roofing 
that  can  anywhere  be  seen.  The  Indian  dome  allows  the  use  of 
pendants  from  the  centre,  which  have  a  Ughtness  and  elegance  never 
^  Hiitory  qf  Indian  and  JBastem  ArcMtecture, 

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Ixii  ARCHITECTURE  India 

even,  imagined  in  Gothic  art.  On  the  other  hand  they  are  necessarily 
small,  and  require  large  stones,  whUe  a  dome  on  the  radiating 
principle  can  be  built  of  small  bricks.  The  Jains  built  their  templee 
in  groups,  or  cities,  of  temples,  as  at  Palitana,  Parasnath,  Gimar, 
Mount  Abu,  Muktagiri,  Eliajnrahu,  and  Gyraspore.  Their  love 
of  the  picturesque  led  them  to  build  their  cities  sometimes  on 
hill-tops,  as  at  Mount  Abu,  sometimes  in  deep  and  secluded  valleys,  as 
at  Muktagiri.  The  two  towers  of  Fame  and  Victory  at  Chittore  are 
examples  of  Jain  work,  called  sikras.  Of  modem  Jain  architecture 
the  most  notable  specimens  are  at  Sonagarh  and  Muktagiri ;  the 
temple  of  Hathi  Sing  (a.d.  1848)  at  Ahmedabad  ;  and  the  temple  at 
Delhi,  about  100  years  old. 

Brahman  architecture  is  divided  by  Fergusson  into  the  three  styles 
of  Dravidian,  Chalukyan,  and  Indo- Aryan.  The  Dravidian  op 
Madras  architecture  is  best  seen  at  Tanjore,  Trivalup,  Sri  Rangam, 
Chidambaram,  Rameswaram,  Madura,  Tinnevelly,  Conjeveram,  Coim- 
batore,  and  Vijayanagar.  **  There  is  nothing  in  Europe  that  can  be 
compared  with  these  Dravidian  temples  for  grandeur  and  solemnity, 
and  for  parallels  to  them  we  must  go  back  to  ancient  Egypt  and 
Assyria"  (Sir  G.  Birdwood).  The  temple  itself,  which  is  called  the 
Vimana,  is  always  square  in  plan,  surmounted  by  a  pyramidal  roof  of 
one  or  more  stories ;  a  porch  or  Mantapa  covers  the  door  leading  to 
the  cell  in  which  the  image  of  the  god  is  placed  ;  the  gate  pyramids 
or  Gbpuras  are  the  principal  features  in  the  quadrangular  enclosures 
which,  with  numerous  other  buildings,  surround  the  Vimanas.  The 
chief  Dravidian  rock-cut  temples,  which,  unlike  the  Buddhist  caves, 
are  excavated  externally  as  well  as  internally,  are  at  Mahabalipur  and 
Ellora.  The  palaces  exhibit  Mohammedan  influence,  having  the 
Moorish  pointed  arch.  They  are  to  be  found  at  Madura,  Tanjore, 
and  Vijayanagar. 

The  GhcUukyan  style  was  at  its  best  in  the  province  of  Mysore 
during  the  three  centuries  a.d.  1000  to  1300,  when  the  BeUalas 
ruled  there.  They  erected  groups  of  temples  at  Somnathpur,  Belur, 
and  Hullabid.  Other  Chalukyan  examples  are  at  Warangal  and 
Hammoncondah.  This  style  is  remarkable  for  elegance  of  outline  and 
elaboration  of  detail.  The  artistic  combination  of  horizontal  with 
vertical  lines,  and  the  play  of  outline  and  of  light  and  shade,  especially 
in  the  Hullabid  example,  far  surpass  anything  in  Gothic  art  The 
animal  friezes  begin,  as  is  usual  in  India,  with  elephants  on  the  bottom 
line  ;  then  lions,  then  horses,  then  oxen,  above  which  are  pigeons. 

Examples  of  the  Indo- Aryan,  or  Northern  style,  are  at  Bhuvanesh- 
war,  Khajurahu,  the  black  pagoda  at  Konarak,  the  temple  of  Jagannath 
at  Puri,  the  Garuda  pillar  at  Jajpur,  the  Teli-Ka-Mandir  at  Gwalior, 
the  temple  of  Vriji  at  Chitor,  the  golden  temple  of  Bishweshwar  at 
Benares,  the  red  temple  at  Bindraban,  and  the  modem  temple  erected 

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Inirod,  AROHITECTURE  Ixiii 

bj  Sindhia's  motber  at  Gwalior.     There  are  three  rook-oat  temples  of 
thiB  stjle  at  Badami,  and  the  Dumar  Lena  at  Ellora. 

Of  Brahman  civil  architecture  the  best  specimens  are  the  tomhs 
of  Sangram  Sing  and  Amara  Sing  at  Oodejpore,  and  of  Bakhtawar 
Sing  at  Alwar.  The  latter  shows  the  foliated  arch  which  is  so 
common  in  Mogul  buildings ;  and  it  also  shows  the  Bengali  curved 
comices^  whose  origin  was  the  bending  of  bamboos  used  as  a  support 
fop  the  thatch,  or  tiles.  The  finest  Brahman  palaces  are  at  Oodeypore, 
Datia,  Orchba,  Amber,  Dig,  and  the  Man  Sing  Palace  at  Gwalior. 
The  beauty  of  Hindu  architecture  is  greatly  enhanced  by  the  use  of 
picturesque  sites,  either  on  hills,  in  valleys,  or  where  the  aesthetic 
value  of  water  may  be  utilised.  At  Rajsamundra,  in  Oodeypore,  for 
eiample,  the  bund  or  dam  of  the  artificial  lake  is  covered  with  steps, 
vhich  are  broken  by  pavilions  and  kiosks,  interspersed  with  fountains 
nd  statues,  the  whole  forming  a  fairy  scene  of  architectural  beauty. 

The  chief  styles  of  Mohammedan  architecture  are  the  Pathan  and 
the  Mogul.  The  Pathans  found  in  the  colonnaded  courts  of  the 
Jain  temples  nearly  all  that  was  required  for  a  ready-made  mosque, 
rbey  had  to  remove  the  temple  in  its  centre,  and  erect  a  new  wall 
on  the  west  side,  adorned  with  niches — mihrabs — pointing  towards 
Mecca ;  and  they  added  a  screen  of  arches  with  rich  and  elaborate 
carvings.  The  best  examples  are  at  Delhi  and  Ajmere.  Of  the  screen 
at  the  Kutub  mosque,  Delhi,  Fergusson  says  that  the  carving  is, 
v?ithout  exception,  the  most  exquisite  specimen  of  its  class  known  to 
exist  anywhere.  He  says  of  the  Minar  that  '*both  in  design  and 
finish  it  far  surpasses  any  building  of  its  class  in  the  whole  world  "  ; 
^nd  considers  that  Giotto's  Campanile  at  Florence,  "  beautiful  though 
it  is,  wants  that  poetry  of  design  and  exquisite  finish  of  detail  which 
marks  every  moulding  of  the  minar."  During  the  Pathan  period 
tall  minarets  were  not  attached  to  the  mosques. 

We  have  no  examples  of  the  Mogul  style  in  the  reigns  of  Babar 
or  HumajTin.  Akbar  was,  in  architecture  as  in  religion,  extremely 
tolerant^  and  his  buildings  exhibit  marked  Hindu  features.  The 
chief  of  them  still  in  existence  are  the  tomb  of  his  father  Humayun 
near  Delhi,  the  town  of  Fatehpur-Sikri,  the  fort  at  Allahabad,  the 
palace  at  Lahore,  the  tomb  he  began  for  hihiself  at  Sikandarah,  and 
t^  red  palace  in  the  fort  at  Agra,  which  by  some  authorities,  in 
^ite  of  its  Hindu  features,  is  ascribed  to  Jehangir.  The  tomb  of 
Anar  Kali  at  Lahore  was  built  by  Jehangir,  in  whose  reign  the  tomb 
^^  Itimad-ud-daulah  at  Agra  was  built.  Shah  Jehan,  during  whose 
reign  the  Mogul  power  was  at  its  highest,  was  the  greatest  of  all 
[ndian  builders.  There  is  a  great  contrast  between  the  manly  vigour 
ind  exuberant  originality  of  Akbar,  and  the  extreme,  almost  effeminate, 
elegance  of  his  grandson.  Shah  Jehan  built  the  palace  at  Delhi, 
^e  fort  and  palace  at  Agra,  and  the  famous  Taj   Mahal,  perhaps 

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Ixiv  ARTS  India 

the  most  beautiful  building  in  the  world.  His  son  Aurangzeb  was 
a  religious  fanatic,  who  has  left  little  save  the  mosque  at  Benares. 
The  later  examples  of  Mogul  architeeture  at  Lucknow  show  marked 
deterioration,  which  is  partly  attributable  to  European  influence. 
Other  notable  examples  of  Mohammedan  architecture  are  at  Jannpur, 
Mandu,  Sarkhej,  and  Ahmedabad. 

In  other  styles  should  be  mentioned  the  ruins  at  Martand  in 
Cashmere,  which  bear  evidence  of  classical  influence ;  and  the  modem 
Golden  Temple  of  the  Sikhs  at  Amritsar. 

The  Burmese  pagoda,  with  its  thin  spire,  has  been  evolved  from 
the  solid  hemispherical  dome  of  the  Buddhists.  The  best  examples  are 
at  Prome,  Pagan,  Rangoon,  Mandalay,  and  the  Shwemawdaw  pagoda  at 

ARTS 

Fergusson  says  of  Indian  sculpture,  that  when  it  *'  first  dawns  upon 
us  in  the  rails  at  Buddh  Gaya  and  Barhut,  250  to  200  b.c.,  it  is 
thoroughly  original,  absolutely  without  a  trace  of  foreign  influence, 
but  quite  capable  of  expressing  its  ideas.  Some  animals,  such  as 
elephants,  deer,  and  monkeys,  are  better  represented  there  than  in 
any  sculptures  known  in  any  part  of  the  world ;  so,  too,  are  some 
trees,  and  the  architectural  details  are  cut  with  an  elegance  and  pre- 
cision which  are  very  admirable."  The  highest  perfection  was 
attained  in  the  4th  and  5th  centuries  a.d.  Little  sculpture  of  any 
merit  has  been  produced  since  that  time. 

The  excellence  of  Indian  art  production  is  to  be  found  in  its  pottery, 
metal  work,  carving,  jewellery,  weaving,  dyeing,  and  embroidery.  In 
these  directions  the  Indian  artisan  is  remarkable  for  his  patience, 
accuracy  of  detail,  thoroughness,  and  artistic  sense  of  both  colour  and 
form.  The  elaboration  of  ornament  in  the  best  Indian  metal  ware, 
or  carving,  the  composition  of  colours  in  the  best  Indian  carpets,  or 
enamel,  the  form  of  the  best  Indian  pottery,  have  seldom,  if  ever,  been 
excelled.  Much  of  the  skill  of  the  Indian  handicraftsman  is  due  to  the 
hereditary  nature  of  his  occupation.  The  potter,  the  carpenter,  the 
smith,  the  weaver,  each  belongs  to  a  separate  caste  ;  a  son  inevitably 
follows  the  trade  of  his  father,  and  the  force  of  custom,  with  generally 
a  religious  basis,  impels  him  to  imitate  his  father's  work.  The  result 
is  that  the  form  and  workmanship  of  artisan  work  is  almost  exactly 
the  same  now  as  it  was  thousands  of  years  ago,  and  that  the  artisan, 
with  great  technical  and  imitative  skill,  has  little  creative  power. 
The  combined  competition  and  prestige  of  Europe  have  created  a 
tendency  to  imitate  European  methods.  ITie  best  work  used  to  be 
done,  at  leisure,  to  the  order  of  the  wealthy  princes  and  nobles  of  an 
ostentatious  native  court     Some  of  these  courts  have  been  abolished. 

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Mrod,  ARTS  Ixv 

wiiile  others  have  suffered  in  purchasing  power  and  in  influence. 
The  authority  of  the  trade  guilds,  and  of  caste,  has  been  relaxed 
onder  ^e  freedom  of  British  rule,  and  the  importation  of  British 
goods  has  forced  many  artisans  into  agriculture  and  even  domestic 
serrice.  British  supremacy,  having  produced  peace,  has  almost 
destroyed  the  armourer's  trade;  the  fancy  cheap  cotton  goods  of 
America  and  Britain  have  displaced  the  muslins  of  Dacca ;  aniline 
dye8,  and  jaU  work,  have  nearly  killed  the  carpet  industry.  Whether 
the  Schools  of  Art  which  the  €k)vemment  has  established  all  over 
India  have  hastened,  or  retarded,  the  process  of  degeneration  which 
is  everywhere  so  visible,  is  a  much -disputed  point  Some  trades 
wHch  were  dying  out  have  been  resuscitated  by  their  efforts ;  and 
the  mania  for  imitating  European  designs  is  sometimes  effectually 
direrted  from  the  worst  to  the  best  examples.  But  a  School  which 
CQQtains  principally  casts  from  the  antique,  and  details  of  Italian  and 
Gothic  ornament,  must  inevitably  destroy  the  purity  of  indigenous  ideals, 
which  is  much  to  be  deplored.  To  restrain  rather  than  to  strengthen 
the  tendency  to  imitate  the  designs  and  methods  of  the  dominant  race, 
should  be  the  aim  of  art  education  throughout  the  country. 

In  the  very  slight  sketch  of  Indian  arts  which  follows,  certain 
places  are  mentioned  as  being  noted  for  particular  work ;  but  it 
should  be  remembered  that  the  small  towns  are  gradually  losing  their 
tpecialities,  the  best  workmen  drifting  steadily  towards  the  larger 
centres.  A  visit  is  recommended  to  the  Indian  Museum  at  South 
Kensington,  before  leaving  England. 

Nearly  every  Indian  village  has  its  pottery  who  is  kept  constantly 
It  work  making  domestic  utensils  of  baked  clay — for  in  millions  of 
looseholds  no  earthen  vessels  can  be  used  a  second  time — as  well  as 
Inages  of  the  gods.  The  forms  of  the  utensils  which  he  makes  are 
if  great  antiquity  and  beauty.  The  best  glazed  pottery  is  made  in 
ke  Punjab,  of  blue  and  white  ;  and  in  Sind,  of  turquoise  blue, 
tapper  green,  dark  purple,  and  golden  brown,  under  an  exquisitely 
kansparent  glaze.  The  usual  ornament  is  a  conventional  flower 
^ttem,  pricked  in  firom  paper  and  dusted  along  the  pricking.  The 
ladura  (Madras)  pottery  deserves  mention  for  the  elegance  of  its 
inn,  and  richness  of  its  colour.  The  Bombay  School  of  Art  produces 
Imitations  of  Sind  ware.  In  the  Punjab  and  Sind,  and  especially 
ft  Tatta  and  Hyderabad,  there  are  many  good  specimens  of  old 
tohammedan  mosques  and  tombs  decorated  with  encaustic  tiles. 
he  of  the  finest  examples  is  the  mosque  of  Wazir  Khan  at  Lahore. 

The  Punjab  has  long  been  noted  for  its  gold  and  silver  work,  and 
<|)eeiaUy  for  parcel-gilt  saraiis,  or  waters-vessels,  of  elegant  shape  and 
tocale  tracery.  The  gold  and  silver  ware  of  Cashmere,  Cutch, 
Eicknow,  Patna,  Bombay,  Ahmednagar,  Cuttack,  and  Tanj^e,  4s 
•trthy  of  mention.     The  hammered  repouss^  silver  work  of  Cutch 

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Ixvi  ARTS  IndiA 

is   of  Dutch  origin.      The  embossed  silver  work  of  Madras,  with 
Dravidian  figures  in  high  relief,  is  called  Swami  ware. 

Domestic  utensils  in  brass  and  copper  are  made  all  over  India^  the 
Hindus  using  the  brass  and  the  Mohammedans  the  copper.  The  brass 
is  cleaned  by  scrubbing  with  sand  or  earth  and  water ;  the  copper 
periodically  receives  a  lining  of  tin.  The  copper  bazaar  of  Bombay 
is  celebrated,  and  so  is  the  brass  ware  of  Moradabad.  Benares  tt 
famous  for  cast  and  sculptured  mythological  images  and  emblems. 
Kansha  plates  are  made  at  Burdwan  and  Midnapore.  Other  places 
noted  for  brass  and  copper  ware  are  Nagpore,  Ahmedabad,  Nassic^ 
Poona,  Murshedabad,  and  Tanjore.  The  Cashmere  and  Peshawar 
ware  has  marked  Persian  features. 

The  artisans  of  India  were  formerly  very  skilful  in  the  use  of  iron 
and  sted,  Fergusson  says  of  the  iron  pillar  in  the  Kutub  mosque  al 
Old  Delhi,  to  which  he  assigns  the  date  of  aj>.  400,  that  *'  it  opens  oui 
eyea  to  an  unsuspected  state  of  affairs  to  find  the  Hindus  at  that  age 
capable  of  forging  a  bar  of  iron  larger  than  any  that  have  been  forg&i 
even  in  Europe  up  to  a  very  late  date,  and  not  frequently  even  now 
It  is  almost  equally  startling  to  find  that,  after  an  exposure  for  fourteei 
centuries,  it  is  unrusted,  and  the  capital  and  inscription  are  as  cleai 
and  as  sharp  as  when  the  pillar  was  first  erected.''  Sir  Qeorg< 
Birdwood  ^  says :  "  The  blades  of  Damascus,  which  maintained  thei 
pre-eminence  even  after  the  blades  of  Toledo  became  celebrated,  wer< 
iA  fact  of  Indian  steel."  Indian  arms  are  characterised  by  thei 
superb,  and  sometimes  excessive,  ornamentation.  But  the  moden 
work  in  iron,  steel,  and  arms  is  not  of  much  importance. 

Damaseening  is  the  art  of  encrusting  one  metal  upon  anothel 
Th0  best  or  true  damascening  is  done  by  cutting  the  metal  deep,  an 
filling  it  with  a  thick  wire  of  gold  or  silver.  The  more  commo 
process  is  to  heat  the  metal  to  a  blue  colour,  scratch  the  design  upo 
it,  conduct  a  gold'  or  silver  wire  along  the  pattern,  and  then  sink 
carefully  with:  a  copper  tooL  The  art  comes  from  Damascus,  hen^ 
its. name.  Damascening  in  gold  is  carried  on  chiefly  in  Cashmel 
Gujrat,  and  Sialkot,  and  is  called  koft-work.  In  silver  it  is  call< 
bidri,  from  Bidar,  in  the  Nizam's  dominions.  A  cheap  imitation 
koft-work  is  made  with  gold  leafl 

Enamd  is  an  artificial  vitreous  mass,  ground  fine,  mixed  wit 
gum  water,  applied  with  a  brush,  and  fixed  by  fusion.  In  tl 
champlev4  enamelling  of  Jeypore — the  best  in  India,  perhaps  in  tl 
world — the  <:olours  are  placed  in  depressions  hollowed  out  of  ti 
metal,  and  are  made  to  adhere  by  fire.  The  Jeypore  artist  is  renown 
|cur;the  purity  and  brilliance  of  his  colours,  and  the  evenness  w^ 
w^i<jh  they  are  applied.  He  is  particularly  famous  fbr  a  fiery  is 
^hiohi  is  unique.  For  enamel  on  gold— besides  Jeypore— ^Al  war,  Del 
^  Th€  Jndustrial  Arts  of  Jiidia^ 

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Introd.  ARTS  Ixvii 

and  Benares  should  be  mentioned  ;  on  silver,  Mooltan,  Hyderabad 
(Sind),  Karachi,  Abbotabad,  Catch,  Lahore,  Eangra,  and  Cashmere  ; 
on  copper  the  Punjab  and  Cashmere.  A  quasi -enamel,  the  mode 
of  preparation  being  kept  secret,  is  made  of  green  colour  at  Pertabghar, 
and  of  blue  at  Kutlam.  Glass  was  known  in  India  at  the  time  of 
the  Mahabluirata ;  glass  bangles  and  other  ornaments  are  made  all 
over  the  country. 

The  splendour  of  Indian  jewellery  is  due  to  the  free  use  of  diamonds, 
rubies,  emeralds,  and  other  gems,  some  of  them  mere  scales,  so  light 
thit  thej  will  float  on  water.  A  dazzling  variety  of  rich  and  brilliant 
cdonrs  is  produced  by  means  of  gems  which  are  valueless  except  as 
points,  sparkles,  and  splashes  of  gorgeousness.  Rings  for  the  fingers 
aid  toes,  nose  and  ears  ;  bracelets,  armlets,  anklets,  nose  ^nids, 
necklaces  made  up  of  chains  of  pearls  and  gems ;  tires,  aigrettes, 
aid  other  ornaments  for  the  head  and  forehead ;  chains  and  zones 
d  gold  and  silver  for  the  waist — such  are  the  personal  ornaments 
k  daily  use  amongst  men  and  women,  Mohammedans  and  Hindus. 
One  reason  for  the  great  popularity  of  gold  and  silver  jewellery  is 
that  it  is  portable  wealth,  easily  preserved.  The  silver  filigree  work 
>f  Cuttack  and  of  Ceylcm,  generally  with  the  design  of  a  leaf,  is 
emarkable  for  delicacy  and  finish.  For  gold  and  silver  jewellery, 
rrichinopoly,  Vizagapatam,  and  Ahmedabad  are  noted.  The  best 
tnamelled  jewellery  comes  from  Delhi,  Benares,  and  Hyderabad 
Deccan).  The  old  Delhi  work  in  cut  and  gem -encrusted  jade  is 
lighly  prized.  The  pietra  dura  inlaid  work  of  Agra  was  originated 
n  the  Taj  Mahal  by  Austin  de  Bordeaux.  While  Florentine  in 
>rigin  and  style,  the  designs  have  a  thoroughly  local  character.  The 
reU-known  Bombay  boxes  are  a  variety  of  inlaid  wood- work  called 
?iqud. 

Indian  lacquer,  so-called,  is  really  Zoc  turnery.  It  is  the  surface 
^btained  by  pressing  a  stick  of  hard  shellac  to  a  rapidly  revolving 
Ifooden  object  The  friction  develops  heat  sufficient  to  make  it 
Where  irregularly.  Further  friction  with  an  oiled  rag  polishes  the 
prface.  The  lac  is  obtained  from  the  incrustations  made  by  the 
pnale  of  an  insect  {coccus  lacca)  on  the  branches  of  certain  trees, 
phe  numeral  lac,  signifying  100,000,  is  derived  from  the  enormous 
Munber  of  these  insects  found  on  a  small  area.  The  chief  consumption 
P  lac  in  Europe  is  for  sealing-wax  and  varnishes.  All  over  India  it 
I  made  into  variegated  marbles,  walking-sticks,  mats,  bangles,  and 
^  Lac -turned  wooden  and  papier -mach^  boxes  and  trays  are 
Me  in  Cashmere,  Sind,  Punjab,  Bajputana,  Bareilly,  and  Kamul 
pCadias).  Of  nnall  objects,  the  mock  ornaments  for  the  idols,  made 
i  pi^»er,  should  be  noted  at  Ahmedabad  and  in  most  parts  of  India 
trtiilcial  flowers,  and  models  of  the  temples,  are  made  of  the  pith  of 
^e  8(^  plant,  hence  the  "  solar  topee,"  or  sun-hat  of  pith. 

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Ixviii  ARTS  hidia 

Skilful  carving  is  done  at  Bombay  in  blackwood,  for  doors  or 
furniture,  in  a  style  derived  from  the  Putch.  At  Ahmedabad  the 
blackwood  ia  carved  into  vases,  inkstandB,  and  other  small  object& 
Jackwood  also  is  carved  in  rectangular  forms  at  Bombay,  Sandals 
wood  is  carved  at  Bombay^  Surat,  Ahmedabad,  Canara,  Mysore,  and 
Travancore  ;  ebony  at  Bijnur  (Rohilkund) ;  ivory  at  Amritsar,  Benares, 
and  Yizagapatam.  Silhet  is  noted  for  its  ivory  fans,  Rutlam  for  its 
ivory  bracelets,  and  Yizagapatam  for  boxes  of  ivory  and  stag's  horn. 
The  beautiful  carved  ivory  combs,  which  used  to  be  found  in  eveiy 
bazaar,  are  not  now  so  common.  Figures  of  animals,  and  of  the  gods, 
are  carved  in  white  marble  at  Ajmere,  Jeypore,  and  Rajputana 
generally.  Excellent  building  stone  is  found  in  Rajputana,  where  it 
is  carved  for  architectural  purposes.  At  Fatehpur-Sikri  (Agra)  models 
of  the  rums  are  carved  in  soapstone.  Models  in  clay  of  fruit  ani 
figures  are  admirably  made  at  Lucknow,  Poona,  and  Calcuttai 
In  the  cities  of  Guzerat,  and  wherever  the  houses  are  made  of  wood, 
their  fronts  are  elaborately  carved. 

India  was  the  first  of  all  countries  that  perfected  weaving,  sewing 
not  being  practised  until  after  the  Mohammedan  invasion.  The 
Greek  name  for  cotton  fabrics,  sindon,  is  etymologically  the  same  as 
India  or  Sind.  The  word  chintz  is  from  the  Hindu  chhint,  oi 
variegated,  while  calico  is  from  the  place  of  its  production,  Calicut  In 
delicacy  of  texture,  in  purity  and  fastness  of  colour,  in  grace  of  design, 
Indian  cottons  may  still  hold  their  own  against  the  world — but  not  in 
cheapness.  The  Dacca  muslin,  once  so  famous,  one  pound  weight  oi 
which  could  be  made  to  cover  260  miles,  is  now  superseded  by  the  chea| 
machine-made  goods  of  Europe  and  America;  and  European  cbinti 
now  takes  the  place  of  the  palampore,  a  kind  of  bed-cover  of  printed 
cotton,  for  which  Masulipatam  used  to  be  celebrated.  In  the  Punjal 
the  weaver's  trade  still  flourishes,  but  large  quantities  of  th< 
cheaper  cottons  are  now  made  in  India  by  machinery.  Pure  «t2i 
fabrics,  striped,  checked,  and  figured  are  made  at  Lahore,  Agra 
Benares,  Hyderabad  (Deccan),  and  Tanjore.  Gold  and  silver  brocadec 
silks,  called  kincobs,  are  made  at  Benares,  Murshedabad,  anc 
Ahmedabad.  The  printed  silks  which  are  worn  by  the  Pars 
women  of  Bombay  are  a  speciality  of  Surat  Bhawulpore  is  noted  fo; 
its  damasked  silks.  Most  of  the  raw  silk  comes  from  China.  Th< 
Mohammedans  are  forbidden  by  their  religion  to  wear  pure  silk,  bu 
may  wear  it  mixed  with  cotton.  Gold  and  silver  wire,  thread  lac€ 
and  foil  are  made  all  over  the  country,  for  trimming  shoes  and  caps 
for  stamping  muslins  and  chintzes,  for  embroidery  and  brocades.  Wit] 
such  skill  is  the  silver  wire  prepared  that  two  shillings  worth  of  silvti 
can  be  drawn  out  to  800  yards.  The  best  embroidery,  remarkable  fo 
its  subdued  elegance  and  harmonious  combination  of  brilliant  coloun 
comes  from  Cashmere,  Lahore,  and  Delhi.     The  natterp  and  coloru 

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Inkvd.  tRBlGAZlOK  Ixix 

diversify  plan^  surfaces  Witbout  destroying  the  impression  of  flatness. 
Much  tinsel  is  used,  but  the  result  has  not  a  tinselly  appearance.  .  The 
famous  Cashm^^e  shawls  are  made  of  the  fine,  flossy,  silk-like  wool 
obtained  firom  the  neck  and  underpart  of  the  body  of  the  goat  of 
Ladak.  Originally  a  speciality  of  Cashmere,  they  are  now  made 
in  the  Punjab  also,  especially  at  Amritsar.  They  have  grieatly 
deteriorated  since  the  introduction  of  French  designs  and  magentJa 
dyes.  The  finest  of  the  woollen  stuffs  called  patu  in  Eangra  and 
Cashmere,  is  made  of  camel's  hair.  A  rough  but  remarkably 
durable  patu  is  made  from  goat's  hair.  The  shawls  called  Rampur 
cbtdars  are  made  at  Ludhiana,  of  llampur  wool.  The  intrini^ic 
difference  between  Eastern  and  Western  decorative  art  is  revealed  in 
OmtaX  carpetSf  where  the  angular  line  is  substituted  for  the  flowing, 
chsaical  *4ine  of  beauty.''  The  Oriental  carpet  is  also  more  artistically 
(^ed,  and.  is  decorated  according  to  the  true  principles  of  conventional 
<iesign.  As  a  rule  the  pile  carpets  of  India  and  Persia  are  of  floral 
design,  while  those  of  Central  Asia,  Western  Afghanistan,  and 
Baluchistan  are  geometric  In  Persia  and  India  the  source  of  the 
majority  of  the  patterns  is  the  tree  of  life,  shown  as  a  beautiful 
ilowering  plant,  or  as  a  simple  sprig  of  flowers.  The  dari  is  a  carpet  of 
cotton  made  chiefly  in  Bengal  and  Northern  India ;  but  the  most 
^mmon  cotton  carpet  is  the  shatrangi,  made  throughout  India,  but 
specially  at  Agra.  The  principal  patterns  are  stripes  of  blue  and 
^hite,  and  red  and  White.  In  point  of  texture  and  workmanship  the 
rugs  from  Ellore,  Tanjore,  and  Mysore  are  the  best.  Costly  velvet 
carpets  embroidered  with  gold  are  made  at  Benares  and  Murshedabad. 
rhe  carpets  of  Malabar  are  now  the  only  pile  woollen  carpets  made 
tf  pure  Hindu  design.  Fine  carpets  are  made  at  Amritsar.  Central 
bian  carpets  are  best  purchased  at  Peshawar. 


L 


IRRIGATION 

The  history  of  irrigation  in  India  stretches  back  into  remote 
itiquity,  many  of  the  modem  works  being  founded  upon  old  native 
mis  which  have  been  restored  and  extended.  The  storage  of  water 
n  tanks  is  very  common  in  Southern  India  The  works  are  for  the 
Host  part  of  native  origin,  but  much  has  been  done  by  the  British  in 
^pairing  old  tanks  and  constructing  new  ones  in  Madras,  the  Bombay 
Eteccan,  and  Ajmere.  In  many  places  the  natives  have  made  artificial 
^es  with  dams,  which  are  often  of  great  architectural  beauty.  In 
N  more  level  tracts  of  the  south  every  declivity  is  dammed  up  to 
wher  the  rain.  Innumerable  wells  cover  the  whole  country.  And 
f »  very  usual  for  the  native  cultivator  to  make  his  own  tiny  irrigating 
r^Mn,  carrying  it  along  the  brows  of  mountains,  round  steep  declivities^ 
M  acro9S  yawning  gulfs  and  deep  valleys ;  his  primitive  aqueducts 
^^  formed  of  stones  and  clay,  the  scooped-out  trunks  of  palm  trees 

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Ixx  tHiB  MUTINY  India 

and  hollow  bamboos.  To  lift  the  water  a  bucket  wheel  is  employed, 
worked  by  men,  oxen,  buffaloes,  or  elephants.  A  good  part  of  the 
Punjab  and  the  whole  of  Sind  would  be  scarcely  habitable  without 
irrigation  ;  and  it  is  practically  indispensable  also  in  the  south-east  of 
the  Madras  Presidency. 

The  greatest  British  works  have  been  in  canal  irrigation,  the  waier 
being  drawn  directly  from  a  river  into  either  a  "  perennial "  or  an 
"  inundation  "  canaL  The  perennial  canal  is  furnished  with  permanent 
headworks  and  weirs,  and  is  capable  of  irrigating  large  tracts  through- 
out the  year,  independently  of  rainfall  An  example  is  the  Ganges 
Canal,  which  has  been  in  operation  since  1854,  has  cost  Rx.  3,000,000 
comprises  440  miles  of  main  canal,  and  2614  miles  of  distributaries, 
and  in  1896-96  supplied  water  to  759,297  acres.  In  one  place  it 
is  carried  over  a  river  920  feet  broad,  and  thence  for  nearly  J 
miles  along  the  top  of  an  embankment  30  feet  high.  The  Sirhin^ 
Canal,  completed  in  1887,  is  even  larger.  These  two  canals,  for  siz 
and  power,  are  without  any  rivals  outside  of  India.  The  inunda 
tion  canals  are  simply  earthen  channels  without  masonry  dams  o 
sluices,  and  are  supplied  with  water  by  the  annual  rise  of  th 
Indus  and  its  affluents  in  the  month  of  May.  Both  these  classe 
of  canals  take  off  from  the  larger  rivers,  which,  even  in  times  o 
drought,  can  be  depended  upon  for  an  unfailing  supply  of  water. 

There  are  great  differences  in  the  financial  results  of  the  worki 
due  to  the  variations  in  surface,  soil,  climate,  the  absence  or  presenc 
of  large  rivers,  and  the  character  and  habits  of  the  people ;  and  th 
methods  of  assessing  and  collecting  the  revenue  also  vary  considerabl 
in  different  localities.  If  the  rainfall  is  plentiful  the  cultivator  wi 
try  to  do  without  the  irrigation  water,  and  the  receipts  falL 

The  capital  outlay,  direct  and  indirect,  up  to  the  end  of  the  yei 
.  1896-96,  was  Rx.  37,474,751  ;  the  gross  receipts  were  Rx.  2,706,418 
the  working  expenses  Rx.  1,166,750  ;  the  net  receipts  Rx.  1,650,668 
the  percentage  of  net  receipts  on  capital  outlay  was  4*1  ;  and  the  ar< 
irrigated,  with  14,000  miles  of  main  canals  and  26,000  miles  of  di 
tributaries — 40,000  miles  altogether — was  10,308,990  acres.  Besidi 
this,  however,  it  is  calculated  that  something  like  20,000,000  acr^ 
are  irrigated  by  means  of  tanks,  wells,  lakes,  and  the  smaller  natii 
channels.  Probably  the  area  irrigated  by  one  means  or  another  i 
India  is  greater  than  in  the  whole  of  the  rest  of  the  world. 

THE  MUTINY  OF  1867 

From  1764  to  1857  the  history  of  British  rule  in  India  is  mark* 
by  frequent  mutinies  among  the  native  troops  or  sepoys.  Ever  ain 
the  days  of  Dupleix  and  Clive,  sepoys,  led  by  European  officers,  ha 
been  the  main  instrument  for  European  aggression  in  India.      Thi 

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Inirod.  !tHfi  mutiijY  Ixxi 

bare  hired  theiuBelyes  out  to  fight  against  their  owii  coUDtrymen  for 
the  Ake  of  two  kinds  of  reward,  pay  and  prestige.  Whenever  their 
expectations  on  either  of  these  points  have  been  threatened  they  have 
been  ready  to  mutiny,  and  have  generally  found  a  religious  excuse  for 
their  disaffection.  The  first  serious  mutiny,  in  1764,  was  for  an 
increase  of  pay.  It  was  promptly  suppressed  by  Hector  Munro,  who 
reftised  the  higher  pay,  and  ordered  the  twenty-four  ringleaders  to  be 
blown  from  guns.  There  was  a  more  extensive  rising  throughout 
Madras  in  1806.  It  began  at  Vellore,  where  the  British  officers  were 
maidered,  but  Qillespie  galloped  from  Arcot,  eight  miles  off,  and 
reaq»tured  the  fort,  killing  or  dispersing  the  mutineers.  On  this 
occasion  the  complaint  of  the  sepoys  was  that  orders  had  been  issued 
forbidding  the  use  of  earrings,  or  caste  marks,  or  beards,  and  that  the 
lew  hat  had  a  leather  cockade  made  from  the  skin  either  of  the 
detested  pig,  or  of  the  holy  cow.  The  Mohammedan  princes  of  Mysore, 
?ho  had  been  dethroned  by  the  British,  lived  with  numerous 
ittendants  in  the  fortress  of  Vellore.  They  told  the  sepoys  that  the 
new  regulations  were  intended  to  deprive  them  of  their  caste,  and 
force  them  to  become  Christians ;  and  the  report  was  spread  that  the 
British  power  had  been  extinguished  by  Napoleon.  The  mutinous 
spirit  had  extended  throughout  Madras  before  it  was  finally  quenched. 
The  Home  Government  declared  that  the  mutinies  were  due  to  the 
fear  of  being  Christianised,  to  the  residence  of  dethroned  princes  at 
Vellore,  to  the  annexations  of  Lord  Wellesley  which  had  shaken 
confidence  in  British  moderation  and  good  faith,  and  to  a  loss  of 
authority  by  British  officers  over  their  men.  The  analogy  between 
Vellore  in  1806,  and  Meerut  in  1857,  is  very  striking,  the  chief 
variation  being  that  the  sepoys  had  greater  causes  of  discontent  in 
1857,  and  that  at  Meerut  there  was  no  Colonel  Gillespie.  The 
religion  of  the  sepoys  seemed  to  them  to  be  in  greater  danger  than 
ev^;  the  capital  of  India,  Delhi,  was  the  home  of  the  dethroned 
descendant  of  the  Mohammedan  Moguls  ;  Lord  Dalhousie's  annexations 
had  far  exceeded  those  of  Lord  Wellesley,  and  were  evidently  intended 
to  be  still  further  pursued  ;  the  discipline  of  native  regiments  was 
diflturbed  by  the  encouragements  held  out  to  their  British  officers  to 
8eek  employment  on  the  General  Staff  j  and  Russia  in  the  Crimea  was 
sopposed  to  have  destroyed  British  power  moi*e  effectively  even  than 
Napoleon.  And  yet  Vellore  had  been  so  completely  forgotten,  that 
Sir  Henry  Lawrence  was  the  only  prominent  Englishman  in  India 
who  foresaw  the  Meerut  rising,  or  understood  what  it  meant.  In  all 
quarters  there  was  touching  faith  in  the  loyalty  of  the  sepoAS,  a  faith, 
in  the  case  of  the  British  officers  of  native  regiments,  that  was  only 
eztingaished  by  t^e  hand  of  the  sepoy  assassin. 

llie  eight  years  from  1848-66,  when  Lord  Dalhousie  was  Goviemor> 
Qcaeral,  will  long  be  remembered  in  India.     They  form  a  period  of 

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Ixxii  THE  MUTINY  India 

large  social  and  material  reforms,  and  are  also  particularly  remarkable 
£6r  Bntisli  annexations  of  native  territory.  After  a  severe  straggle 
with  the  warlike  Sikhs  the  Punjab  was  conquered  and  annexed  in 
1849.  Lower  Burma  followed  in  1852,  and  Oudh,  without  conquest^ 
in  1856.  By  a  new  doctrine,  the  territory  of  a  native  prince  who  died 
without  an  heir  of  the  body,  was  treated  as  hipaed  to  the  British,  an 
adopted  heir  not  being  recognised.  Under  this  rule  we  became 
possessed  of  the  principalities  of  Sattarah,  Jhansi,  Kagpore,  and  others. 
It  was  also  decided  that  the  stipends  which  had  been  paid  to  those  native 
princes  who  had  been  deprived  of  their  territories  in  former  years,, 
should  not  be  continued  to  their  successors.  Among  others  of  less, 
importance,  the  Nana  Sahib,  the  heir  of  the  Peishwa  of  Poona,  the 
nominal  head  of  th^  Marathas,  was  refuged  the  pension  of  £80,000 
per  annum  which  the  Peishwa  had  enjoyed  during  his  life.  The 
descendant  of  the  Moguls,  Bahadur  Shah,  was  informed  that  his  son 
would  not  be  allowed  to  live  at  Delhi,  or  to  retain  the  regal  title. 
And  when  the  territory  of  the  loyal  king  of  Oudh  was  annexed, 
owiog  to  his  persistent  misgovemment,  the  surplus  revenues  of  the 
State,  after  payment  of  a  substantial  pension  to  the  king,  were 
gathered  into  the  coffers  of  the  British  Government.  All  this  looked 
like  a  policy  of  unjust  and  high-handed  aggression.  The  natives 
understand  annexation  after  conquest,  and  the  conquered  provinces 
of  Punjab  and  Lower  Burma  remained  loyal  throughout  the 
Mutiny.  But  now  every  native  prince  feared  for  his  dominion,  as 
the  British  seemed  determined  to  absorb  all  their  territory,  either 
by  conquest,  or  on  the  plea  of  misgovemment,  or  by  the  new  rule 
excluding  adopted  heirs ;  and  this  policy  of  greed  seemed  to  be 
further  evidenced  by  the  resumption  of  pensions,  and  the  confiscation 
of  the  surplus  revenue  of  Oudh.  Of  the  chiefs  directly  affected  the 
Mogul  and  the  king  of  Oudh  were  Mohammedans,  a  race  which 
considers  itself  as  the  natural  ruler  of  India  and  likely  to  profit  by  the 
ejection  of  the  British ;  the  Banee  of  Jhansi  and  the  Nana  Sahib  were 
Maratha  Hindus,  and  the  Marathas  had  practically  conquered  the 
Mohammedans  when  the  British  intervened.  The  leaders  of  the  two 
most  warlike  and  aggressive  races  in  India,  and  of  the  two  religions, 
complained  of  harsh  treatment  at  the  hands  of  the  British.  They 
determined,  if  possible,  to  rouse  the  sepoys,  a  portion  of  whom  were 
already  in  an  insubordinate  condition. 

In  1856  one  of  the  first  innovations  of  the  new  Governor-General, 
Lord  Canning,  was  the  General  Service  Enlistment  Act,  by  which  all 
future  recruite  in  Bengal  were  m^de  liable  for  service  outside  the 
Company's  dominions  without  extra  pay.  Iliis  had  always  been  the 
riile  with  the  i^poys  of  the  Madras  and  Bombay  armiea  .  Buttiie 
Bengal  sepoy  was  a  man  of  high  caste,  and  entitled  to  privileges. 
He  was  now  threatened  with  the  loss  of  his  caste  by  being  taken 

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IntrGd.  THE  MtTMNt  lixiii 

over  the  sea  (the  *' black  water  ^)  to  serve  in  Burma.  He^  considered 
tliat  healone  had  conquered  India  for  the  Gompafty,  Mid  belieVed 
that  he  was  now  to  be  used  for  further  conqaests^  without  any  increase 
of  pay,  in  regions  far  from  his  home.  Moreover,  the  new  regulations 
would  confine  all  future  enlistment  to  low  caste  men,  and  thus 
deprive  the  Bengalee  of  his  monopoly  of  military  service.  His  pay, 
his  prestige,  and  his  caste  were  thus  attacked.  The  agitators  im- 
pressed upon  his  superstitious  and  credulous  mind,  that  the^  railways 
and  tdegraphs  which  had  recently  been  introduced,  were  a  kind  of 
magic  designed  to  oppress  him ;  and  that  the  new  rule,  made  by  Lord 
Canning,  which  permitted  the  re-marriage  of  Hindu  widows,  and  the 
new  zeal  fOT  edlication,  were  deliberate  attacks  upon  his  religion. 
The  sepoys  knew  also  that  while  the  British  troops  had  been  reduced 
ky  draits  sent  to  the  Crimea,  and  to  Persia,  the  native  army  hiad  been 
increased  for  the  purpose  of  garrisoning  the  recently  acquired  territories, 
the  British  fwce  being  now  only  40,000  to  ^40,000  sepoys.  The 
prestige  of  England  had  been  shaken  by  the  disasters  of  the  Afghan  war  ; 
it  was  believed  that  the  British  had  been  beaten  in  the  Crimea;  and  an 
M  prophecy  was  revived  which  foretold  that  the  Ootnpany'is  reign 
would  end  in  1857,  one  hundred  years  after  the  battle  of  Plassey. 
At  this  critical  moment,  with  Mogul  and  Maratha,  Mohammedan  and 
Hindu,  Princes  violently  aroused  against  the  British ;  with  an  army 
of  h^h  caste  soldiers  alarmed  concerning  their  pay,  their  privileges, 
and  th^  religion ;  with  the  British  force  reduced  to  insignificance,  - 
there  occurred  the  &mous  cartridge  incident  A  new  type  of  rifie 
having  been  issued  to  the  sepoys,  the  hideous  blunder  was  perpetrated 
of  smearing  the  cartridge  with  a  composition  of  the  fat  of  the  cow,  the 
sacred  animal  of  the  Hindus.  On  complaints  being  made  British 
officers  honestly,  but  ignorantly,  declared  that  no  cow's  fat  had  been 
uaed,  an  answer  which  the  sepoys  knew  to  be  false,  and  which  only' 
doubled  their  suspicions  of  British  motives.  Here,  then,  was  the 
positive,  clear  proof  of  the  sinister  intentions  of  the  British. 

The  first  r^;iment  to  mutiny  was  the  34th  Native  Infantry  at' 
Barrackpore,  near  Calcutta,  in  February  1867,  which  was  followed  in 
March  by  the  19th  at'  Berhanipore,  in  the  same  neighbourhood. 
Both  these  regiments  were  disbanded,  and  the  84th  (British)  was 
brought  over  from  Burma  to  Barrackpore.  But  nothing  else  was 
done.  '*  Allahabad  and  Delhi,  the  two  chief  fortresses,  arsenals,  and 
stiategical  positions  of  the  North  Western  Provinces,  were  still 
w^ottt  the  protection  of  British  garrisons,  and  no  steps,  such  as  the 
eeOecticA^  of  supplies  and  carriage,  had  been  taken  anywhere  for  the 
pf^apt  i90Yement  or  mobilisaticm  of  British  trodps  ?  (McLedd  Inn^isjf;^ 
On  the  3rd  May  the  7th  Qudh  Irregulars  mutinied  at  Luckjjpw,  and 
w«ie  disarmed,  by  Sb  H^nry  lUiwreiice.  -  Then  oh  the  lOth  came  the 
great  outbreak  at  Meerut,  forty  miles  from  Delhi.     The  sepoys  after 

Digitized  byLjOOQlC 


!TIOH  OF 
IxxiV;  *he5^  mutiny  3 ~ 

liberating  some  of  their  comrades,  who  had  been  imprisoned 
insubordination,  made  ofiP  for  Delhi ;  arrived  there  they  declar^ 
Mogul  as  the  ruler  of  India.  ^-     ^^j--- 

Probably  this  forwwrd  move  of  the  Mogul  party  aroused  the  jeJ 
of  the  other  rival  conspirators.     For  three  weeks  there  was  no  t  , 
mutiny.     But  when  the  natives  found  that  days  and  weeks  pL** 
without  any  punishment  being  inflicted  upon  them,  they  be^  ^. 
think  that  the  British  power  was  really  at  an  end.    On  the  SOtl^i 
the  71st  Native  Infantry  mutinied  at  Lucknow,  and  from  thirf   •• 
there  was  a  general  rising.    In  some  cases  British  officers,  women 


children  were  all  murdered  ;  in  others  the  men  alone  were  killed 
in  still  others  they  were  all  spared,  and  even  escorted  by  the  muti 
out   of  harm's  way.     As   each   regiment   rose,  it   made   for  1  ^"»«*» 
Cawnpore,  or  Lucknow,  which  became  the  centres  of  the  coii  ^^"' 
Delhi,  the  Rome  of  Asia,  was  in  the  hands  of  the  rebels  ;  at  Cawn 
Sir  Hugh  Wheeler  with  a  mere  handful  of  soldiers  was  suri^u  ^~ 
by  overwhelming  numbers ;  and  at  Lucknow,  a  garrison  undo)  r    ... 
Henry  Lawrence  was  closely  invested.     Relief  could  come  from  1  ^ 
quarters.      Lord    Canning   was   at    Calcutta  ;   General    Anson^ 
Commander- in- Chief^   at    Simla  ;  and   Sir  John   Lawrence   in , 
Punjab. 

Between  Calcutta  and   Meerut,  a   distance  of  900    miles, 
were  only  three  British  regiments, — ^the  14th  at  Dinapore,  the  _  . 
at  Lucknow,  and  a  Company's  Regiment,  the  3rd  Europeans,  at     <n^' 
Lord  Gannmg  made  energetic  efforts  to  obtain  reinforcements.  *'* 
Madras  Fusiliers,  under  Colonel  Neill,  arrived  at  Calcutta  o: 
23rd  May ;  the    64th  and    70th  from  Persia  early  in    June 
other  British  troops  from  Burma,  Ceylon,  and  Singapore,  and 
sepoys  from  Madras  soon  followed.     A  force  which  was  on  ii 
to  China  was,  with  the  consent  of  Lord  Elgin,  diverted  to  Cal* 
several  regiments  were  despatched  from  the  Cape  Colony,  and 
requests  for  additional  troops  were  sent  to  England.     The  m< 
transport  were  very  indifferent      The   railway  from   Calcuti 
been  completed  only  as  far  as  Ranigunj,  a  distance  of  120 
and  there  was  difficulty  in  procuring  the  bullock  carts  and 
vehicles  which  had  to  be  employed.     So  it  happened  that  the 
from  Calcutta  were  only  just  in  time  to  secure  Benares  and  Alia 
and  it  was  not  till  the  7th  July  that  General  Havelock  was  al 
advance  from  Allahabad  with  an.  inadequate  force  of   2000 
Genercd  Anson^  on  receiving  the  Meerut  news  at  Simla,  at  once  to. 
the  British  and  Gurkha  regiments  which  were  in  the  hills,  and 
to  move  on  Delhi,  but  his  progress  was  slow  owing  to  lack  of 

^  A  more  detailed  account  of  the  events  at  these  important  places  ' 
found  on  pp.  18»,  261,  and  289.    The  sequence  of  events  wiU  best  ^e 
consulting  the  chronology,  p.  IxxxiiL 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


'..-C 


^  OF  TROOPi 


T" 


REFERENCE    NOTE 
U  '  •  '^'o-  ' — -ir/SH  TROOPS  COLOURED  RED 
IVE  TROOPS  COLOURED  BLUE 

?Y      REGIMENT       ••      DETACHMENT 
TRY     REGIMENT       A      MUTINIED 
FRY     COMPANY  i      DISARMED 


war      u-       \     ^ 


ERY  

Grand  Trunk  Road  • 

9       )      /  r-.... 


RAILWAY 


Itai^liolonit'vr  *  Co..Ed4ii^ 


d  by  Google 


IfUrod.  *tiB  MUTINY  lixv 

and  commissariat.     The  important  arsenals  at  Phillour  and  Teroiepur 
were  secnred.     On  the  27th  May  Anson  died  of  cholera.     The  attack 
iq)on  Delhi  did  not  begin  until  the  8th  June,  when  Sir  H.  Barnard, 
with  the  troops  collected  bj  Anson,  amounting  to  3800  men,  defeated 
a  rebel  army  of  30,000  men  at  Badli-ka-serai,  and  thus  obtained 
possession  of  the  famous  ridge  overlooking  the  walls  of  Delhi.    Barnard 
died  of  cholera  on  the  5th  July,  and  was  succeeded  by  Reed,  who  re- 
dgned  on  the  17th  owing  to  ill-health,  handing  over  the  command  to 
Archdale  Wilson.     The  natives  had  purposely  timed  their  rising  for 
the  beginning  of  the  hot  weather,  knowing  l^w  debilitating  active 
operations  are  at  that  period  to  all  Europeans.     For  some  time  the 
British,  while  affecting  to  invest  Delhi,  were  themselves  hotly  be- 
si^ed  on  the  ridge.     In  the  Pui\jab  Sir  'John  La/wrence  was  ably  sup- 
ported by  such  men  as  Nicholson,  Edwardes,  Chamberlain,  and  Mont^ 
gomery,    who   energetically   suppressed,    by  disarmament,  the   local 
mutinies   or  threats   of  mutiny   at   Peshawar,    Nowshera,    Mooltan, 
Meean  Meer,  imd  Ferozepur.     A  movable  column  was  formed  under 
the  command  of  Nicholson,  to  suppress  any  further  risings  in  the 
Punjab,  and   then   to   march  on   Delhi     The  value  of  Nicholson's 
conn^  and  decision  can  hardly  be  over-estimated.     The  Punjab  wad 
in  a  restless  condition.     With  his  small  force,  moving  from  place  to 
place,  disarming  or  dispersing  the  mutineers,  he  kept  that  province 
from  rising.     But  it  was  not  until  the  14th  August,  three  months 
after  the  Meerut  outbreak,  that  he  was  able  to  leave  the  Punjab  and 
join  the  British  force  at  Delhi.      No  move  could   be   made   there 
until,  on  the  6th  September,  the  siege  guns  arrived  from  Ferozepur, 
which  opened  on  the  waUs  on  the  1 1th,  and  prepared  the  way  for  the 
storming  of  the  works  on  the  14th,  and  the  final  capture  of  Delhi  on 
the  20th.      It  came  not  a  day  too  soon.      Sir  John  Lawrence  had 
emptied  his  province  of  British  troops,  sending  every  possible  man  to 
Delhi ;  and  the  Sikhs  and  Punjabees,  who  had  hiUierto  been  loyal, 
were  becoming  agitated  with  the  idea  that  the  British  would  never 
regain  their  position.    If  these  troops  had  turned  against  us  we  should 
have  had  to  begin  again  the  conquest  of  India. 

Meanwhile,  the  British  between  Calcutta  and  Delhi  were  in  sore 
straits.  At  Agra  the  sepoys  were  disarmed  on  the  31st  May,  but 
alUiough  the  Maharaja  Scindia,  of  Gwalior,  was  himself  loyal,  his 
fine  body  of  disciplined  troops  only  awaited  an  opportunity  to  march 
on  Agra.  At  Cawnpore  Sir  H.  Wheeler's  small  garrison  capitulated 
on  the  26th  June,  and  were  massacred  next  day,  but,  the  women  aind 
children  were  made  prisoners.  At  Lucknow  a  small  British  force 
was  holding  out  against  enormoua  numbers  of  the  enemy«    . 

Havelodc  advanced  to  their  assistance  with  1400  British  and 
600  Sikh  troops,  leaving  Allahabad  on  the  7th  July.  The  line 
between    Calcutta    and    Allahabad   was    disturbed,    the    communi- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


hcxvi  TH32  MtrDlNt  India 

cations  thi^atened,  and  Havelock  obtained  ho  substantial  reii^ 
fbrcements  till  tbe  middle  of  September.  When  lie  had  mtatchied 
for  five  days  from  AUaiiabad  he  defeated  a  large  force  of  mutineei% 
imd  Marathas  at  Fatehpore,  and  fought  two  other  successful  bdttleis 
on  the  15th  of  July  at  Aong  and  Pandoo  Nuddee.  On  the  evening  ol 
that  day,  being  then  22  miles  from  Cawnpore,  he  leiuned  that  tbe 
British  women  and  children  of  Wheeler's  garrison  were  still  alive,  and 
tired  as  his  men  were,  he  marched  them  14  miles  that  night,  defeated 
the  Nana  Sahib  next  day  in  three  separate  actions/  and  rested  bis 
weary  troops  on  the  outskirts  of  Cawnpore  on  the  evening  of  the  16tb. 
The  heat  was  so  intense  that  many  of  his  men  died  from  sunstroke  or 
exhaustion.  The  women  and  children  were  murdered  by  the  orders 
of  the  Nana  on  the  16th,  when  Havelock  had  started  on  his  last 
desperate  effort  to  save  them.  On  the  I'Zth  he  occupied  Cawnpore. 
On  the  20th,  leaving  300  men  there  under  Neill,  he  began  tbe 
crossing  of  the  Ganges  with  1500  men.  On  the  29th  he  defeated  tbe 
rebels  at  Oonao  ^md  Busherut  GungCj  but  finding  immense  numbers 
of  mutineers  still  between  him  and  Lucknow,  while  his  own  force  bad 
been  reduced  to  860  effectives,  he  had  no  alternative  but  to  retire 
to  Cawnpore.  On  the  4th  August  he  marched  out  of  CaWnpore  a 
second  time  with  1400  men;  on  the  5th  he  again  defeated  the  rebels 
at  Busherut  Gunge,  but  his  losses  from  disease,  as  well  as  battle,  bad 
been  so  great  that  it  was  hopeless  to  proceed  further,  and  he  fell  back 
once  more,  reaching  Cawnpore  on  the  13th.  On  the  16th  he  attacked 
and  defeated  4000  sepoys  at  Bithoor.  He  had  now  only  1000  effectives. 
In  his  front  towards  Lucknow  were  some  30,000  rebels  ;  at  Fumick- 
abad  were  probably  as  many  more  ;  he  was  threatened  on  both  flanks  ; 
and  had  to  face  on  the  south  the  Gwalior  contingent,  and  many 
other  smaller  bodies.  Yet  he  courageously  determined  to  keep  bis 
position  at  Cawnpore  instead  of  falling  back  upon  Allahabad.  Tbe 
relief  of  Lucknow  was,  of  course,  out  of  the  question  until  reinforce- 
ments had  arrived.  These  continued  to  dribble  in  during  the  next 
month,  but  there  was  mischievous  delay  between  Calcutta  and 
Allahabad,  some  6000  men,  who  might  have  been  sent  on  to  Have- 
lock, being  detained  to  suppress  local  disturbances.  On  the  15tb 
September  Sir  James  Outram  arrived  to  supersede  Havelock.  In 
the  most  generous  and  chivalrous  manner,  he  gave  up  the  command 
to  Havelock,  and  thus  left  the  honour  of  relieving  Lucknow  to 
the  man  who:  had  already  made  such  able  and  gallant  etforts  to  that 
tod  At  lengili,  on  the  19th  September,  Havelock  crossed  the  Gang^ 
with  3000  'inen.  He  defeated  the  rebels  at  Mungalwar  on  the  Slst, 
and  on  the  28rd,  ^4th;  and  26th,  was  gradually  fighting  his  Way  Hi 
to  Lucknow  ;  and  finally  effected  a  junction  with  the  garrison  late  in 
the  evening  of  the  26th,  though  with  a  loss  of  700  out  of  his  300O 
men.     Outram  then  took  command  of  the  old  and  the  new  garrisons 

^^  Digitized  by  LjOOQIC 


Mrod,  THE  MUTINY  Ixxvii 

at  Lucknow.  Delhi  having  Mien  to  the  British  between  the  14th 
and  20th,  the  mutineers  from  that  place  were  arriving  at  Lucknofw, 
and  Oatram  found  it  impossible  to  fight  his  way  out  taking  with  him 
the  women,  children,  and  sick  of  the  old  garrison.  He  remained  on 
the  defensive,  closely  invested,  until  the  final  relief  of  Lucknow  twp 
months  later. 

The  dangerous  period  of  the  mutiny  ended  with  the  capture  of 

Delhi  and  the  reinforcement*  of  Lucknow  towards  the  end  of  September. 

I    Prom  this  time  the  British  position  was  assured  by  the  arrival  of  rein- 

ibrcements  from  England.     The  first  of  them  was  iS^V  Oolin  Campbell^ 

the  newly -appointed   Commander-in-Chief  in    India,  who  reached 

Calcutta  on  the  17th  August     As  reinforcements  were  now  steadily 

uriving,  his  first  care  was  to  arrange  that  regular  batches  should  be 

forwarded  with  all  speed.     Then  he  started  for  the  seat  of  war,  and 

reached  Cawnpore  early  in  November.      Leaving  1000  \men  under 

Windham  at  Cawnpore,  he  advanced  on  Lucknow  with  5000,  reached 

the  Alum  Bagh  on  the  12th  ;  left  a  garrison  there  ;  marched  upon  the 

rebels  with  4200  men  on  the  16th ;  and  effected  a  junction  with  Outram's 

beleaguered  force  on  the  17th,  though  with  a  loss  of  nearly  600  men. 

The  original  Lucknow  garrison,  who  had  been  closely  invested  since 

the  2nd  July,  a  period  of  more  than  four  months,  were  thus  finally 

relieved.     But  Sir   Colin  found   the  rebels  so  numerous,  and  the 

difficulty   of  escorting  the  women,  children,  and  sick  safely  out  of 

Lucknow  so  great,  that  he  felt  himself  imable  to  hold  Lucknow  in 

addition,  and  accordingly  evacuated  it,  leaving  Outram  at  the  Alum 

Bagh  with  4000  men  to  maintain  the  appearance  of  British  authority, 

Hayelock   died  of  dysentery  on   the   24th   November.     When   Sir 

Colin  reached  Cawnpore  with  his  precious  human  freight,  he  found 

that  Windham  had  been  defeated  by  a  Maratha  named  Tantia  Topi, 

aod  had  been  gradually  forced  out  of  the  city  of  Cawnpore  into  his 

entrenchments  on  the  banks  of  the  Ganges.     On  the  3rd  December 

the  families  and  sick  were  sent  on  to  Allahabad,  and  then  Sir  Colin 

attacked  Tantia  Topi,  captured  his  artillery,  and  dispersed  his  army. 

Beyond   clearing   the   Doab,   the   country  between  the  Ganges  and 

Jumna,  little  was  done  in  the  next  three  months  except  the  collection 

of  reinforcements.     On  the  2nd  March  Sir  Colin  joined  Outram  at  the 

Alum  Bagh  with  a  force  which  the  constant  streams  from  Calcutta 

had  now  raised  to  19,000  men  with  120  guns.     To  this  was  shbrtly 

added  a  brigade  imder  General  Franks,  and  a  contingent  of  Nepalese 

under  Jung  Bahadur,  which  brought  the  army  up  to  the  respectable 

total  of  31,000  men  and  164  guna     The  mutineers  in  Lucknow 

numbered  90,000  trained  men,  and  a  laige  force  of  irregulars,  and 

they  bad  employed  their  respite  in  erecting  three  strong  lines  of  defences 

aioond  tWr  position,     Sir  Colin's  attack  began  on  the  7th  Mardi, 

and  he  finally  drove  oflf  the  enemy  and  captured  Lucknow  on  the  15th, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


Ixxviii  THE  MUTINY  India 

On  the  20th  Lord  Canning  issued  the  Confiscation  Proclamation, 
by  which  the  estates  of  all  the  important  chiefs  in  Oudh  were  con- 
fiscated.    Most  of  them,  although  <;ertainly  not  loyal,  had  abstained 
from  active  participation  in  the  revolt     They  now  rose,  and  were 
joined  by  other  princes  who  feared  thai  they  would  be  ta^ated  in  like 
manner,  and  that  they  had  nothing  to  lose,  but  everything  to  gain  by 
opposing  the  British.     Thxis  it  happened  that  although  the  sepoys 
were  dispersed,  only  small  bands  of  them  still  remaining  in  the  field, 
new  enemies  sprang  up  who  were  not  subdued  until  the  end  of  the 
year  1868,  by  which  time  there  were  100,000  British  troops  in  India 
Of  the  various  British  brigades  which  operated  in  different  parts  of  the 
country,  the  most  important  was  that  under  Sir  Httgh  Rose  (afterwards 
Lord  Strathnaim)  in  Central  India.     On  the  8th  January  1858,  Rose 
left  Mhow  with  a  Bombay  force,  and  marching  northwards  captured  the 
fortresses  of  Ratgarh  on  the  28th,  and  Gkirrakota  on  the  13th  February. 
After  several  successful  battles  he  arrived  before  the  walls  of  Jhansi  on 
the  21st  March.     On  the  Ist  April  he  totally  defeated  Tantia  To^h 
who  was  marching  to  the  relief  of  Jhansi  with  22,000  men ;  and  he 
stormed  and  captured  Jhansi  on  the  4th.     The  Ranee  fied  with  her 
defeated  troops  towards  Kalpee   where  Tantia  Topi  was   collecting 
another   army.      Rose  marched   out   of  Jhansi  on  the  25th  April, 
defeated  Tantia  Topi  on  the  6th  May,  and  captured  Kalpee  on  the 
23rd.      The  Ranee  then  fled  to  Qwalior,  where  she  was  joined  by 
the  Maharaja's  troops,  and  thus   obtained  possession  of  the  strong 
fortress.     In  spite  of  the  great  heat  Rose  marched  upon  Gwalior,  and 
captured  it  on  the  24th.     The  Eanee,  dressed  as  a  man,  was  killed  in 
battle.     On  the  21st  Sir  Robert  Napier  (afterwards  Lord  Napier  of 
Magdala)  attacked  and  defeated  Tantia  Topi  at  Alipore  Jowra.     From 
this  date  the  wily  Maratha  was  incessantly  hunted  throughout  Central 
India ;  he  had  covered  3000  miles  in  his  flight  before  he  was  betrayed 
on  the  7th  April  1859,  ten  months  later.     He  was  tried,  and  hanged. 
Meanwhile  the  rebellion  in  Oudh  and  the  North  West  Provinces, 
which  had  now  assumed  the  character  of  a  popular  rising,  had  been 
gradually  suppressed ;  and  the  Nana  had  been  driven  into  the  Nepal 
jungle,  where  he  died  of  fever. 

The  prophet  who  had  announced  that  the  Company's  rule  would 
end  in  1857,  a  hundred  years  after  the  battle  of  Plassey,  was  not  far 
out  in  his  reckoning.  On  the  1st  November  1858,  at  a  grand  darbar 
at  Allahal:^,  Lord  Canning  announced  that  the  Company's  possessions 
in  India  were  transferred  to  the  British  Crown.  Since  the  mutiny 
there  has  l>een  a  great  change  in  British  policy.  The  British 
troops,  in  185*!^  one -sixth  of  the  native,  are  now  more  than  one 
hall  AH  the  strong  fortresses,  magazines,  and  arsenals  are  garrisoned 
by  British  soldiers;  there  are  no  batteries  of  native  artillery 
of  any  importance ;  and  the  modem  preparations  for  transport^  com- 

^^  Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


Inirod,  remarkablk  kvbnts  Ixxix 

missariat,  and  mobilkation,  combined  with  the  railway  system,  ensure 
the  speedy  movement  of  British  troops  on  any  given  spot  The  high 
caste  sepoy  has  been  to  a  considerable  extent  replaced  by  a  less  exact- 
ing soldier,  and  the  danger  of  a  groundless  religious  panic  thereby 
lessened.  The  right  of  adoption,  for  which  many  of  the  chiefs  fought, 
has  been  conceded.  The  policy  of  annexation  in  India  has  been 
abandoned.  The  pay  of  the  sepoy  has  been  raised,  whether  on  service 
is  his  own  country  or  in  foreign  districts.  And  the  British  officers  of 
mtive  regiments  are  no  longer  encouraged  to  leave  their  men  for  the 
attractions  of  civil  or  staff  employment  Both  races  have  learned  their 
lesson.  The  best  proof  is  that  whereas  formerly  sepoy  mutinies  were 
rf  frequent  occurrence,  no  single  example  has  since  occurred  to  revive 
Bemoiies  of  the  great  tragedy  of  1857. 


REMAKKABLE  EVENTS  CONNECTING  INDIA  WITH 
EUROPE 

DATES 

Vasco  da  Gama  sails  to  Calicut  round  the  Cape  of  Qood  Hope      .  1498 

The  Portuguese  Viceroy,  Albuquerane,  captures  Goa  ....  1510 
Bassein,  Salsette,  and  Bombay  oeded  to  the  Portuguese  by  the  Raja 

ofGuzerat 1584 

Thomas    Stephens,  of  New  College,  Oxford,  becomes  rector  of  the 

Jesuits'  college  at  Salsette 1579 

Charter   from  Queen  Elizabeth  to  "The  Governor  and  Company  of 

Merchants  of  London  trading  to  the  East  Indies "  .        .  1601 

The  Dutch  East  India  Company  formed      ......  1602 

The  first  French  East  India  Company  formed 1604 

The  Dutch  occupy  Pulicat  (near  Madras) 1609 

The  Mogul,  Jehangir,  issues  a  proclamation  nermitting  the  English  to 

establish  factories  at  Surat,  Ahmedabad,  Cambay,  and  Gogo    .  1611 

The  first  Danish  East  India  Company  formed 1612 

Captain  Best  defeats  the  Portueueso  squadron  at  Swally  1612 
Sir  Thomas  Roe,  ambassador  to  Jehangur,  obtains  favourable  concessions 

for  English  trade 1615 

An  English  factory  founded  at  Armagaon 1626 

An  English  fsctory  founded  at  Masulipatam 1632 

The  English  Company  allowed  to  trade  in  Bengal       ....  1634 

Fort  St.  Greorge  founded  at  Madras  by  Francis  Day  ....  1639 
Gabriel  Broughton,  surgeon  of  the  Hopewell,  obtains  from  the  Mogul, 

Shah    Jehan,   exclusive  privileges  of  trading  in    Bengal  for  the 

English  Company,  as  a  reward  for  his  professional  services  to  the 

Mogul  and  the  it^'a  4>f  Bengal                  1645 

The  Dutch  take  Negapatam  from  the  Portuguese  ....  1660 
Bombay  ceded  to  mgland  by  the  Portuguese  as  part  of  the  Infanta 

Oatherina's  dower  on  her  marriage  with  Charles  II.          ...  1661 

French  settlement  established  at  Pondicherry  1674 

AiHBW  jBnglish  Company  formed,  with  a  capital  of  £2,000,000    ,        .  1698 

The  old  Company  buys  the  site  of  Calcutta                                 .        .  1700 

Dmth  of  the  Mo^l,  Anrangzeb,  and  decline  of  the  Mogul  power  .  1707 
IhioQgh  the  arbitration  of  Lord  Oodolphin  the  two  English  Companies 

ure  amalgamated     .......      (^^^.  t^  •  ^709 

Digitized  by  VjOOv  IC 


IXXI  REMARKABLE  EVENTS  l7zdia 

I>AT£S 

The  Austrian  Emperor  Charles  VI,.  grants  a  charter  to  the  Ostend 
Company         ......    r        •        ►        •         •.       •         •      ...      1723 

England  and  FrancB>t  war  in  Europe        ^        .         .         .        .        .'  .  1743 

A  French  fleet  under  La  Bourdonnais  captures  Madras        .        .        .     '1746 
An  Eiiglish  fleet  under  Admiral  Bosoawen  besieges  Pondicherry,  but  is 
repulsed.      The  treaty  of  Air-la-Chapelle  restores  Madras  to  the 
English  .        •  "     .        .        .        .        ,        .        .        .        .        .      1748 

Dupleiz  places  nominees  of  his  own  on  the  throne  at  Hyderabad  and 
Arcot.      The  English  support  Muhammad  All  for  Arcot.      "War 
between  the  English  and  French  in  the  Camatic     .        .        .        .      1749 

Capture  and  subsequent  defenpe  of  Arcot  by  CHve       .        .        .        .     1761 

The  French  capitulate  at  Trichinopoly 1752 

Clive  returns  to  England     . 1758 

Dupleix  superseded.    Treaty  of  peace  between  the  English  and  French 

signed  at  Pondicherry     .  . 1754 

Clive  returns  to  India         .        ...       .        .        .        ...     1756 

Suraj-ud-daulah,  Nawab  of  Bengal,  captures  Calcutta.     20th  June. 
— ^The  tragedy  of  the  Black  Hole.     The  English  prisoners,  146  in 
number,  are  confined  in  a  room  18  feet  square,  with  only  two  small 
windows.     Next  morning  only  28  remain  alive        .        .        .        .     1756 

Recapture  of  Calcutta  by  Clive.  23rd  June. — Battle  of  Plassey.  Clive 
with  1000  Europeans,  2000  sepoys,  and  8  guns,  defeats  Snraj-ud- 
daulah  and  35,000  men,  16,000  horse,  and  50  guns.  War  with 
France  renewed  in  the  Camatic  .  .  .  ,  .  .  •  1757 
Lally  arrives  with  a  French  fleet.  He  takes  Arcot.  Clive  is  appointed 
the  first  Governor  of  the  Company's  settlements  in  Bengal       .        .      1758 

Clive  defeats  the  Dutch 1759 

Eyre  Coote  totally  defeats  Lally  at  the  battle  of  Wandiwash       .        .     1759 
Arcot  taken  by  the  English.     Clive  sails  for  England  .        .        .     1760 

Pondicherry  capitulates  to  the  English.     Fall  of  the  French  power  in 

the  Deccan 1761 

Pondicherry  restored  to  the  French  by  the  treaty  of  Paris.  The  first 
sepoy  mutiny  in  the  English  camp  is  suppressed  by  Hector  Munro. 
Munro  defeats  the  Nawab  of  Bengal  at  the  decisive  battle  of  Buxar. 

Pupleix  dies  in  poverty  in  Paris 1764 

Lord  Clive  arrives  at  Calcutta  as  Governor-General.     The  revenues  of 
Bengal,  Behar,  and  Orissa  granted  to  the  Company  by  the  Mogul, 
ShahAlamlL         .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .     1765 

The  Northern  Circars  ceded  to  the  English.     Clive  prohibits  the 
servants  of  the  Company  from  engaging  in  private  trade  or  accept- 
ing presents,  and  increases  their  salaries.     Lally  is  executed  at  Paris     1766 
Clive  leaves  India.     The  Nizam  and  Haidar  Ali  attack  the  English     .     1767 
The  Nizam  cedes  the  Camatic     .        .        .        .  .        .        .     1768 

Terrible  famine  in  Bengal .        .        .     1770 

Warren  Hastings,  Governor-General    . 1772 

Supreme  Court  established  at  Calcutta.     The  Dutch  expelled  from 

Negapatam  by  the  English 1773 

The  Rohilla  chiefs  defeated  by  the  English.     Salsette  and  Bassein 

taken  by  the  Bombay  troops.    Clive  commits  suicide  in  England     .     1774 
The  Nawab  of  Gudh  ceaes  Benares      .        .        ...        .        ,        .     1775 

Chandemagore,  Masulipatam,  Earikal,  and  Pondicherry  taken  from 

the  French      .        ...        .         •        .        .        .        .        .1777 

The  first  Maratha  War  begins.    General  Goddard's  celebrated  march 

across  India.     Convention  of  Wargaon    .        .        .        .        .        .     1779 

Haidar  Ali  takes  Arcot    Captain  Popham  captures  Gwalior.     Warren 

Hastings  wounds  Sir  Philip  Francis  (Junius)  in  a  duel     .         .  .      .     1780 

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IfUrod,  REMARKABLE  SYBNTS .  IxxXl 

DATES 

Sir  Eyre  Ooote  defeats  Haidar  Ali  at  Porto  Novo.    The  English  capture 

the  Dutch  ports  of  Pulicat  and  Sadras 1781 

Death  of  Haidar  AIL    The  French  assist  Tipu,  his  son  .     1782 

The  captured  French  possessions  restored  to  them  by  the  treaty  of 

Yersailles 1788 

Petce  with  Tipn ;  the  conquests  on  both  sides  restored.     Pitt's  Bill 

establishes  a  Board  of  Control 1784 

IStii February. — ^Warren  Hastings  impeached  by  the  Houseof  Oommons, 
before  the  House  of  Lords,  for  corruption  and  oppression  .        .     1788 

Tipa  ravages  {>art  of  Travancore 1790 

Lcid  Comwallis  leads  the  British  army  against  Tipu  in  person.     Takes 

Bangalore.  Is  joined  by  Nizam  Ali  and  the  Peishwa  .  .  .  1791 
Tb  alUes  storm  the  redoubts  at  Seringapatam.  Tipu  yields  one-half 
•f  his  dominions,  to  be  divided  between  the  Nizam,  the  Peishwa, 
Old  the  English  ;  and  agrees  to  pay  £3,000,000  ....  1792 
l^ular  Civil  Ck)urts  established  in  Bengal.  The  revenue  settlement 
if  Lord  Comwallis  in  Bengal,  by  which  the  Zamindars,  who  had 
been  the  revenue  agents  of  the  Mogul,  were  declared  to  be  the  land- 
owners, is  made  permanent.    Pondicherry  taken  from  the  French 

for  the  third  time 1798 

3rd  April. — Warren  Hastings  is  acquitted  after  a  trial  lasting  seven 
years.     The  Company  grant  him  £4000  a  year  for  life      .        .        .     1796 
rbe  Dutch  settlements  in  Ceylon,  and  the  Cape,  taken                        .     1796 
Seringapatam  stormed,  and  Tipu  slain.     His  dominions  divided  be- 
tween the  Nizam  and  the  English 1799 

rhe  Nizam  gives  up  his  share  of  Mysore  in  consideration  of  English 

protection 1800 

The  Nawab  of  the  Carnatic  cedes  Nellore,  North  and  South  Arcot, 
Trichinopoly,  and  Tinnevelly.     The  Nawab- Wazir  of  Oudh  cedes 
Bohilkund  and  the  Boab.     Ceylon  made  a  Crown  Colony        .        .     1801 
Treaty  of  Bassein,  by  which  the  foreign  relations  of  the  Peishwa  are 

supervised  by  the  British 1802 

'^laratha  War.     Battle  of  Assaye,  23rd  September  ;  Wellesley  (after- 
wards the  Duke  of  Wellington)  with  4500  men  defeats  50,000  Marathas 
under  Sindhia  and  the  Raja  of  Nagpur.    Lake  defeats  the  Marathas 
at  Aligarh,  and  captures  Delhi  and  Agra.     Cession  of  the  greater  part 
of  what  are  now  the  North- West  Provinces.     The  Mogul  king  of 
Delhi  becomes  the  pensioner  of  the  British.     Conquest  of  Cuttack  .     1803 
ilonson's  advance  into  Holkar's  territory,  and  disastrous  retreat, 
tapture  of  Indore.     Holkar's  attack  on  Delhi  defeated        .        .        .     1804 
Lake  abandons  the  siege  of  Bhurtpore.     Holkar  cedes  Bundelkund  1805 

Mutiny  of  sepoys  at  Vellore.     Suppressed  by  Colonel  Gillespie    .        .     1806 

lise  of  Runjeet  Singh  in  the  Punjab 1807 

V&r  declared  against  Nepal.     Repulse  of  the  British  ....     1814 

^ckterlony  defeats  the  Ghurkas  at  Maloun 1815 

Treaty  of  Segowlie.     Cession  of  hill  stations  .  .        .1816 

Operations  against  the  Pindharis,  bands  of  freebooters.  Maratha  War. 
Battle  of  Khirki:  defeat  of  the  Peishwa  and  capture  of  Poona. 
Battle  of  Sitabuldi :  defeat  of  the  Raja  of  Nagpur.  Battle  of 
Mehidpore  :  defeat  of  Holkar.  Cession  of  Ajmere  oy  Sindhia  .  1817 
lefence  of  Korygaum  by  800  sepoys,  with  ten  British  officers,  against 
25,060  Marathas.     Holkar  cedes  territory.     The  dominions  ot  the 

Peishwa  annexed 1818 

krmese  War ....     1824 

Ctptore  of  Bhurtpore,  hitherto  deemed  impregnable.     Treaty  of  Yan- 
daboo  ;  cession  by  the  Burmese  of  Assam,  Arracan,  and  Tenasserini     1820 


Ixxiii  .  AEMAltKABLB  EYfiNl^B  Tndia 

DATES 

Sati,  or  widow  -  burning,  declared  "culpable  homicide"  by  Lord 
William  Bentinck 1829 

Renewal  of  the  Company's  charter,  on  condition  that  the  Company 
abandons  its  monopoly  of  the  China  trade,  and  acknowledges  the 
right  of  Europeans  to  reside  in  India  and  acquire  land     .        .        .     1833 

Annexation  of  Coorjg 1834 

Lord  William  Bentinck  leaves  India,  having  abolished  sati,  suppressed 
(with  the  aid  of  Sir  W.  Sleeman)  Thuggee,  reformed  the  judicial 
administration,  restored  the  use  of  the  vernacular  language  in  all 
courts,  extended  education,  effected  the  revenue  settlement  of  the 
North- West  Provinces  (with  the  aid  of  Robert  Bird),  given  the 
natives  a  share  in  the  government,  restored  the  finances,  and  pro- 
moted steam  communication  vid  Suez 1 815 

Efforts  to  eradicate  female  infanticide.  The  freedom  of  the  Press 
established.    Ranjit  Singh  seizes  Peshawur 18S5 

Dost  Muhammad,  Ameer  of  Afghanistan,  receives  a  Russian  mission. 
Lord  Auckland  declares  war 1818 

Capture  of  Kandahar  and  Ghazni,  and  occupation  of  Kabul.  Shah 
Shnja  made  Ameer.     Death  of  Ranjit  Singh.     Capture  of  Aden       .     18 3t 

2nd  November.  ^-Murder  of  Sir  A.  Bumes  at  Kabul.  28rd  December. 
— Murder  of  Sir  W.  Macnaghten 1843 

Retreat  of  British  army  of  4500  men  (the  remnants  of  a  force  of  15,000) 
from  Kabul,  of  whom  one  only.  Dr.  Brydon,  reaches  Jellallabad 
alive.  Pollock  forces  the  Khyber  and  joins  Sale's  garrison  at 
Jellallabad.  Murder  of  Shah  Shiga  at  Kabul  and  accession  of 
Akbar  Khan.  Pollock  defeats  the  Afglians  at  Tezeen,  and  re- 
occupies  Kabul.  Lady  Sale  and  the  Kabul  prisoners  ransomed. 
Retiu'n  of  the  British  anny  to  India 184' 

Sir  Charles  Napier  defeats  the  Sind  armies  at  Miani  and  Hyderabad. 
Annexation  of  Sind         .........     184] 

First  Sikh  War.  Gough  fights  an  indecisive  action  at  Moodki.  Assault 
on  the  Sikh  entrenchment  at  Ferozeshah,  which  is  captured  on  the 
second  day  after  an  obstinate  struggle.  The  Sikhs  lose  74  guns, 
and  the  British  2400  killed  and  wounded 1841 

Sir  Henry  Smith  defeats  the  Sikhs  at  Aliwal.  Gough  fights  a 
desperate  battle  at  Sobraon,  which  ends  in  the  rout  of  the  Sikh  army. 
Jammu  and  Kashmir  sold  to  Gholab  Singh  for  £750,000 .        .        .184 

Murder  of  Vans  Agnew  and  Anderson  at  Mooltan.  Second  Sikh  War. 
Unsuccessful  siege  of  Mooltan 184 

Mooltan  stormed  by  General  Wlush.  Gough  fights  an  indecisive  action 
at  Chilianwallah ;  both  armies  retire ;  British  loss  of  2400  men,  4 
gims,  and  3  colours.  Gough  defeats  the  Sikhs  at  Giyrat ;  they  lay 
down  their  arms.  Annexation  of  the  Punjab.  Annexation  of 
Sattarah  by  lapse 18^ 

Burmese  War.     Annexation  of  Pegu 18£ 

Annexation  of  Jhansi  by  lapse 18£ 

Annexation  of  Nagpur  by  lapse.  Competitive  system  for  civil  appoint- 
ments introduce    . ISl 

7th  February. — Annexation  of  Oudh,  owing  to  persistent  misrule. 
Xord  Dalhousie  leaves  India,  having  opened  the  first  railway  for 
traffic,  formed  a  department  of  puolic  works,  introduced  cheap 
postage,  constructed  telegraphs,  opened  the  Ganges  Canal,  and 
established  an  education  department  with  the  three  universities  of 
Calcutta,  Madras,  and  Bombay.  29th  February.— Arrival  of  Lord 
Canning.     The  General  Service  Enlistment  Act      .        .        .        -      18 

Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy,  a  philanthropic  Parsi,  made^  Baronet.     The 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


Inkod,  E£MARKABLB  fiVBNTd  Ixxxiii 

PATE8 

Mutiny.     Febraary.    Mutinies   at  Barrackpore   and  Berhampore. 
The  sepoys  refuse  to  use  the  new  cartridges  which  were  greased  with 
the  fat  of  beef  and  pork.     8rd  May.  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  suppresses 
a  mutiny  of  the  7th  Oudh  Irregulars  at  Lucknow.     9th  May.  At 
Meerut  eighty-five  sepoys  refuse  to  use  even  the  old  cartridges,  and 
are  imprisoned   in   irons.      10th   May.    Rising  of  the  sepoys  at 
Meerut ;  they  release  their  comrades  from  jail,  bum  the  cantonment, 
snd  make  for  Delhi.     11th  May.    The   mutineers   reach    Delhi ; 
murder  the  Europeans ;  and  proclaim  the  Mogul  as  Ruler  of  India. 
80th  May*  Mutiny  in  the  cantonment  near  Lucknow.     4th  June. 
Mutinies  at  Benares  and  Allahabad,  and  slaughter  of  Europeans. 
5th  June.  Mutiny  at  Jhansi.     Massacre  of  the  Europeans  who  had 
mrrendered  on  a  promise  of  their  lives.     Mutiny  at  Cawnpore.     6th 
June.  Attack  upon  Sir  Hugh  Wheeler  in  the  entrenchment  at 
Cawnpore.     8th  June.  Battle  of  Badli-ka-serai,  near  Delhi.     Defeat 
of  the  rebels  and  occcupation  of  the  Ridge.     11th  June.  Arrival  of 
KeUl  with  the  Madras  Fusiliers  at  Allahabad.     23rd  June.  This 
being  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Plassey,  the  mutineers  make  a 
determined  assault  on  the  Ridge  at  Delhi.     26th  June.  Capitula- 
tion of  Sir  H.  Wheeler  at  Cawnpore  on  a  promise  from  the  Nana 
Sahib  that  the  lives  of  all  will  be  spared.     27th  June.  Massacre  of 
the  males  of  the  garrison  at  Cawnpore  by  order  of  the  Nana.     2nd 
July.  Investment  of  the  Residency  buildings  at  Lucknow.     Sir  H. 
Lawrence  mortally   wounded   by   a  shell.      7th   July.    Havelock 
advances  from  Allahabad  with  2000  men.    16th  July.  Murder  of  the 
British  women  and  children  at  Cawnpore  by  order  of  the  Nana. 
17th  July.  Havelock  retakes  Cawnpore.    14th  August.  Anival  of 
Nicholson's  column  at  the  Ridge,  Delhi.     6th  September.  Battering 
faain  arrives  at  the  Ridge.     14th  to  20th  September.  Delhi  stormed 
with   a   loss  to  the  British  of   1200  men.      Nicholson  mortally 
wounded.     26th  September.  Havelock  and  Outram  fight  their  way 
into  Lucknow,  and  are  shut  in.     Death  of  Neill.     17th  November. 
Sir  Colin  Campbell  relieves  Lucknow.     22nd  November.  Lucknow 
evacaated.     24th  November.  Death  of  Havelock.     27th  November. 
Windham  driven  into  his  entrenchments  by  the  Gwalior  rebels,  who 
plunder  Cawnpore.     6th  December.  Sir  Colin  Campbell  defeats  the 

Gwalior  rebels  . 1857 

fo*  Colin  Campbell  reconquers  Lucknow.  Sir  Hugh  Rose  captures 
Jhansi  and  Gwalior.  Sir  Robert  Napier  (Lord  Napier  of  Magdala) 
defeats  Tantia  Topi  Loyalty  of  Dost  Muhammad,  Ameer  of  Afghani- 
stan, and  Jung  Bahadar  (of  Nepal)  throughout  the  Mutiny.  1st 
November.  The  Government  of  India  transferred  from  the  Company 
to  the  British  Crown,  represented  by  a  Viceroy        ....     1858 

income  tax  imposed 1860 

slative  Councils  established  in  the  three  Presidencies     .         .         .     1861 
tth  from  fiimine  of  one-fourth  of  the  population  of  Orissa        .        .     1866 

>rkand  taken  by  the  Russians 1868 

^  ssination  of  Lord  Mayo,  the  Viceroy,  while  on  a  visit  to  the  con- 
vict settlement  in  the  Andaman  Islands 1872 

le  Russians,  under  General  Kaufftnann,  take  Khiva  .  .  .  .  1873 
luiune  in  Behar.  Government  expenditure  of  £7,000,000   .        .         .     1874 

tisit  of  H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales 1875-6 

fcinine.  Government  expenditure  of  £8,000,000.     Increase  of  5,000,000 

deaths.  British  subscription  of  half  a  million  sterling  .  .  .  1876-8 
M  January. — H.  M.  the  Queen  proclaimed  Empress  of  India  at  Delhi  1877 
Ikere  Ali,  Ameer  of  Afghanistan,  receives  a  Russian  but  not  a  British 

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IxXXiV  RBMAHRABLS  EVENTS  tfdk 

DATES 

missiQn.    Three  British  columns  move  on  AfehaliistAn.     Capture  of 
Ali  Musjid.     Roberts  storms  the  Peiwar  Eotal.     Flight  of  Shere  Ali 
to  Turkestan,  and  accession  of  his  son  Yakub  Khan.     Despatch  of   . 
native  troops  to  Malta 1878 

Death  of  Shere  Ali.  Treaty  of  Gundamuk.  Sir  liouis  Gavagnari 
is  received  at  Kabul  as  British  representative,  but  murdered  six 
weeks  after  his  arrival.  Roberts  advances ;  carries  the  heights  of 
Charasiab,  takes  Sherpur,  and  enters  KabuL  Abdication  of  Yakub 
Khan 1879 

Ayub  Khan  defeats  General  Burrows  at  Maiwand,  with  a  loss  to  the 
British  of  1000  men  killed  out  of  2500  engaged.  Brilliant  march 
by  Roberts  with  10,000  men  to  the  relief  of  Kandahar,  313  miles 
in  twenty -one  days.  Roberts  completely  routs  Ayub  Khan.  The 
British  nominate  Abdur  Rahman  as  Ameer.  The  British  forces  re- 
turn to  India 1880 

■Skobeleff  defeats  the  Tekke  Tui-komans  and  captures  Geok  Teppe        .     1881 

Further  advance  of  the  Russians.  Death  of  Skobeleff.  Lord  Ripou 
extends  local  self-government  with  some  powers  of  election.  Aboli- 
tion of  customs  duties  on  all  articles  except  intoxicants  and  arms. 
A  contingent  of  the  native  army  is  sent  to  Egypt    ....     1882 

The  Ilbert  Bill  proposes  to  **  invest  native  magistrates  in  the  interior 
with  powers  over  European  British  subjects."  Bitter  race  animosities 
aroused.  Compromise  adopted  by  which  Europeans  are  entitled  to 
a  jury  of  which  one-half  at  least  are  of  their  own  race      .  .     1883 

Occupation  of  Merv  and  Sarakhs  by  the  Russians       ....     1884 

A.  Russian  force  attacks  the  Afghans  at  Panjdeh.  The  Ameer  meets 
Lord  Dufferin  at  Rawul  Pindi,  and  is  given  money  and  munitions 
ofwar 188i 

King  Thebau,  of  Maudalay,  having  made  overtures  to  i^'rauce  and 
refused  to  receive  a  British  envoy,  is  deposed.  Annexation  of  Upper 
Burma.  The  National  Congress  of  natives  commences  its  annual 
meetings.  Delimitation  of  the  northern  boundary  of  Afghanistan  by 
an  Anglo-Russian  Commission  188< 

16th  February.  The  Jubilee  of  Her  Majesty  the  Queen  Empress 
celebrated  with  great  manifestations  of  native  loyalty      .        .        .188 

Formation  of  Imperial  Service  Troops  in  Native  States        .  .      188 

Completion  of  the  Afghan  Frontier  Railway  and  Defences  .  .      188 

Murder  of  British  officers  at  Manipur.  Capture  and  execution  of  the 
leaders.     Visit  of  the  Cesarewitch,  now  the  Czar      .        .        .        .      18£ 

The  Indian  Councils  Act  introduces  an  elective  element '  into  the 
Legislative  Councils 18^ 

The  Mints  closed  to  the  free  coinage  of  silver  ;  the  value  of  the  rupee 
fixed,  for  Government  purposes,  at  Is.  4d.  Compensation  given  to 
officials  on  account  of  depreciation  of  rupee      .        .        .         .        .      18^ 

Visit  of  Sirdar  Nasrullah  Khan,  second  son  of  the  Ameer,  to  England. 
Final  delimitation  of  the  Pamir  Boundary.  Chitral  Campaign. 
Storming  of  the  Malakhand  Pass,  and  relief  of  the  British  force  in 
Chitral.     Imposition  of  import  duties 181 

Cholera  and  plague  at  Bombay.  The  boundaries  of  Beluchistan  laid 
down IS 

Plague  and  Famine.  British  subscription  of  more  than  half  a  million 
sterling.  Severe  earthquake  in  Bengal  and  Assam.  Insuboixiination 
of  tribes  on  N.W.  frontier.     Punitive  expedition     .        .        .         .1.8 


d  by  Google 


Tntrod.  Indian  terms  lixxv 


SOME   NATIVE   TERMS   USED   IN   THIS   BOOK 

fA.  sfgnifles  Arabic ;  H.  Hindi^stini  or  Hindi ;  K.  Kanarese :  Mai.  Malaydlam ;  M.  Mara^hi ; 
My.  Malay ;  P.  Persian ;  S.  Sanscrit ;  Tel.  Telugu ;  Tur.  Turkish  ;  T.  Tamil.] 

IMIB  (Ameer),  A.  **  commander,"  a  title  of  princes  and  nobles,  as  the  Amirs 

of  Sindh. 
Lsi  (Anna),  H.  the  16th  part  of  a  rupee. 
BabtJl,  a.  the  Acacia  arabica  tree. 

BABij)UB,  P.  "brave,"  **chivalric,"  a  title  of  honour  among  Mohammedans. 
BuxGALOW,  H.  (bangla)  a  thatched  house ;  the  name  usualfy  applied  to  the 
houses  of  the  English  in  India,  and  to  the  rest-houses  for  travellers  built 
b^  Government  on  the  public  roads. 
Bi0Li,  trough  of  water,  at  a  spring,  hence  a  well. 
B^B,  P.  a  market  or  market-place  ;  a  street  of  shops. 
BiBAM  (B^om),  Tur.  a  lady  of  rank  ;  a  queen  or  princess. 
BiATA  (Batta),  H.  additional  allowance  to  public  servants  or  soldiers  em- 
ployed on  special  duty. 
&AHMAN,  S.  a  Hindii  of  the  first,  or  priestly  caste. 
ftiDDHiST,  S.  a  worshipper  of  Buddh,  or  Sakya  Muiii,  who  died  b.o.  548. 
C^STE,  class  ;  sect ;  corruption  of  the  Portuguese  cdsta  or  race. 
Catamaban,  T.  hUtUf  **to  bind,"  maram^  "a  tree,"  a  log-raft  on  which 

the  natives  of  Madras  paddle  through  the  surf. 
ChIwadi,  Tel.  a  native  rest-house  for  travellers. 
Chottltrib,  an  English  corruption  of  Chawadi,  q,v, 

Cbunam,  S.  an  English  corruption  of  H.  cMn<i,*from  S.  cMrTUnhf  lime,  a  plaster  or 

mortar  sometimes  made  of  shells  of  a  remarkable  whiteness  and  brilliance. 

Compound,  probably  My.  an  enclosure.     A  corruption  of  the  Malay  word 

Kamjxmg, 
Daohopa,  Daooba,  S.  deh^  "the  body,"  gup,  "to  hide,"  a  circular  structure 
inside  Buddhistic  cave  temples,  supposed  to  contain  the  ashes  or  relics  of 
Buddha,  and  occupying  the  place  of  our  altars. 
1>AK,  Post.    Dak-Bungalow  (or  Muzafari  Bungalow)  a  Kest-house  for  travellers. 
pABBAR  (Durbar),  P.  a  royal  court ;  an  audience  or  levee. 
X>haramsAlA,  S.  dha/rma,  "justice,"  '* piety,"  and  s^?rf,  "a  hall,"  a  place 

of  accommodation  for  travellers  and  pilgrims. 
I^iwAN,  P.  **  aroyal  court,"  **a  minister,"  especially  the  chief  financial  minister. 
tAxisif  A.  **poor,"  a  religious  man,  who  has  taken  the  vow  of  poverty. 
^hAt  (Ghaut),  S.  ghatta,  "a  landing-place,"   "steps  on  a  river  side,"  a 

mountain  pass ;  any  narrow  passage. 
B^OPUBA,  H.  the  ^te  of  a  Pagoda. 
fcsAKTHi,  Sanscrit  written  in  the  Tamil  character. 
CmUsHTAH,  p.  an  agent 
CuMBAz,  a  cupola ;  a  dome. 

gAMnATi,  A.  a  bearer  of  a  palki,  in  Bombay  an  indoor  servant. 
'^    BiM  (Haram),  a  sanctuary  ;  ladies'  apartments. 

tTALBAB,  H.  an  officer  in  native  regiments  corresponding  to  our  sergeant. 
X7KKAH  (Hookah),  A.  a  native  pipe. 

[imB,  A.  the  royal  presence,  a  respectful  term  applied  to  high  officials. 
K^iE,  P.  a  tenure  by  which  the  public  revenues  of  an  estate  or  district  were 
granted  to  an  individual,  with  powers  to  collect  them,  and  administer 
the  geneiml  afiEairs  of  the  estate. 
i^^XDJiSLf  A.  a  native  officer  next  to  a  Siibahdar,  and  corresponding  to  our 

lieutenant. 
J»oj,  1^  Hindu  d©v<4®«>  as  ?akir  is  a  Mohammedi^^.  ^         j 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


Ixxxvi  INDIAN  TERMS  India 

Kaohebi  or  EAOHHABi,  H.M.  a  court  or  office  for  public  business. 

EhIn,  a.  a  Mohammedan  title  of  nobility  answering  to  our  ''lord.*'    ■ 

Eh  AS,  special  Khas  Mahal = Hall  of  special  audience. 

KuBBAH,  A.  a  tomb. 

Kvjji  (Cooly),  T.  and  Tur.  a  day  labourer. 

tiAKH  (Lac),  S.  the  number  100,000. 

VLihit  S.  a  garland. 

Man  (Maund),  H.  a  weight,  varying  in  different  parts  of  India.     In  Bombiy 

it  is  25  lbs. ;  in  Bengal,  since  1883,  80  lbs. 
Mandapam,  S.  an  open  pavilion  or  porch  in  front  of  a  temple. 
Massulah,  T.  a  boat  sewed  together,  used  for  crossing  the  surf  at  Madras. 
MiHBAB,  the  recess  in  the  wall  of  a  mosque — on  the  side  nearest  Mecca — to 

which  Mohammedans  turn  at  prayer. 
MiMBAR,  the  pulpit  in  a  mosque. 
Monsoon,  A.  a  corruption  of  the  A.  mavMm,  **a  season  ;'*  applied  now  to 

the  periodical  rains  in  India  which  fall  during  the  S.W.  Monsoon. 
MuNSHi  (Moonshee),  A.  a  writer  ;  a  secretary  ;  a  teacher  of  languages. 
MuNSiF,  A.  a  native  judge. 
NliK,  S.  an  officer  in  native  armies  corresponding  to  a  corporal ;  an  ancient 

title. 
NlUGH  (Nach),  S.  a  dance  ;  an  exhibition  of  dancing-girls. 
Naubat  khana,  a.  the  guard-room  ;  the  chamber  over  a  gateway,  where  a 

band  is  stationed. 
NAwAb,  a.  this  word  means  lit.  ** deputies,"  being  the  plural  of  nd*ib,  "a 

deputy."     It  is  now  a  title  of  governors  and  other  high  officials. 
NizAm,  a.  an  arranger  ;  an  administrator ;  a  title  of  the  prince  whose  capital 

is  Hyderabdd  in  the  Deccan. 
Nulla,' properly  Nala,  "watercourse." 
Pagoda,  P.  an  Anglican  corruption  of  the  P.  word  hut-kadahy  "an  idol 

temple";  also  a  coin=8i  rupees,  called  by  the  natives  him,  but  de- 
riving its  appellation  of  pagoda  from  its  showing  a  temple  on  one  face ; 

there  are  other  derivations. 
Pi.L-AL,  T.  the  priests  of  the  Tuda  tribe,  lit.  "milkmen." 
PAlegAr  (Polygar),  T.  Tel.  a  shareholder ;  a  landed  proprietor.     A  title  of 

persons  in  the  Madras  Presidency  who  correspond  to  Zamindars  in  othe.T 

parts  of  India. 
Palanquebn,  H.  an  Anglican  corruption  of  the  -wor^  pdUci,  a  vehicle  in  whicli 

persons  of  rank  are  carried  on  men's  shoulders. 
PIn,  S.  the  leaf  of  the  betel  creeper.     Pan-supari  is  areoa  nut  rolled  in  thii 

leaf  for  chewing. 
Pi.Rsis,  P.  a  sect  who  worship  the  Deity  under  the  emblem  fire. 
Pb-kovil,  T.  "  devil-temple,     a  hut  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  spirit 

of  dead  men. 
Peons,  from  the  Portuguese  peao,  Spanish  peouy  but  sometimes  thought  ai 

Anglican  corruption  of  the  H.  YfoxA  piydddh,  "footman." 
PeshkAes,  p.  an  agent.     In  Bengal,  the  native  officer  under  a  judge,  next  t 

the  Sarishtaddr  in  rank. 
PeshwjC,  p.  the  prime  ministers  of  the  R^as  of  Satira ;  Brahmans  who  aft« 

wards  became  the  supreme  chiefs  of  the  Mardtha  nation. 
PhatbiiXr,  M,  lU*  "a  letter  carrier,"  a  fast-sailing  vessel  common  on  the  \S 

iioast  of  India. 
Phinr,  T.  the  7uda  name  for  the  stone  circles  on  the  Nilgiri  Hills. 
Pice,  H.  a  corruption  of  the  word  paisd,  a  copper  coin,  of  which  64  fgp  to 

rupee. 
PiB,  P.  old,  a  Mohammedan  saint. 
Ri.j^,  S.  a  Hindfi'king  or  prince. 
\^^U  S.  the  wife  of  alUja  ;  a  queen  or  princeg|,^^^,  .^ GoOgle 


IiM. 


HIKDU   WOBDS 


Ixxxvii 


Rath,  S.  a  ch&riot. 

RisAt.ahdjLe>  a.  a  natiye  captain  of  a  troop  of  horse. 

Riot,  A.  an  Anglican  corruption  of  the  A.  word  r^a^fot,  a  subject,  a  peasant. 

Sadi  Amin,  A.  a  native  judge. 

Sade  'AdAlat,  a.  formerly  the  Supreme  Court  of  Justice  in  India  for  trying 

appeals. 
Sahib,  A.  lord ;  a  title  applied  to  English  gentlemen  in  India. 
SarAi  ,  a  rest-house  for  travellers ;  a  caravansaraL 
Sati  (Suttee),  S.  the  burning  of  a  widow  with  her  deceased  husband. 
ShAh,  p.  a  king  ;  a  title  usually  applied  to  the  King  of  Persia. 
SianIbs,  T.  a  tribe  in  Tinnevelly  and  the  extreme  S.  of  India,  who  are  palm-^ 

tree  ^difflbers  by  profession. 
Shankh,  S.  a  shell ;  1^  Ib^  i^ells  which  an  blown  at  kc/rm  by  tte  Hindis 

during  religious  ceremonies. 
SiOLA,  T.  a  patch  of  jungle,  a  wooded  delL 
SjPAHi  (Sepoy),  P.  a  native  soldier,  one  of  a  9ipdh  or  army. 
Stbahdae,  a.  a  governor  of  a  province ;  a  native  military  officer  corresponding 

to  a  captain. 
fAHZHi,  a  division  of  Zilla  (see  below),  equivalent  to  Taluk, 
fiHslLDAB,  A.  a  native  collector  of  revenue,  who  is  also  a  magistrate. 
rii,*P.  a  crown. 

Talttk,  or  more  properly  ta^oMiikahy  a  district ;  a  division  of  a  province. 
TappIl,  H.  in  Bombay  the  post ;  delivery  of  letters ;  a  relay  of  norses. 
TATn,  M.  matting ;  a  mat  snade. 
Teppa  Kulam,  Smth  India,  a  tank  surrounded  by  steps  with  usually  a 

temple  in  the  centre. 
TuDAS,  T.  a  remarkable  tribe  on  the  Nigiri  Hills. 

YAhak  {or  Waman)  S.  the  5th  incarnation  of  Vishnu,  in  the  shape  of  a  dwarf. 
VAziK,  A.  a  prime  minister. 

ViHi.RA,  S.  a  cell,  an  apartment  in  a  monastery  or  cave. 
VislAnah,  S.  a  sacred  vehicle  or  shrine. 
ZamindAk,  p.  a  landed  proprietor,  a  person  who  receives  a  percentage  of 

€rovemment  rents. 
Zia2at,  a.  a  burial-place. 
ZiL*A  (Zillah),  A.  a  province  or  tract,  constituting  the  jurisdiction  of  a  circuit 

judge. 


A  Few  Hindu  Words 


English. 

One 

Two 

Throe 

Four 

Rve 

Six 

Seven 

Eight 

JTine 

Ten 

Eleven 

Twelve 

fhlrte^n 

Foiateen 

-llfteen 

Sixteen 


Hindu. 

Ek 

Do 

Tin 

Char 

Pdnch 

Chhah 

Sat 

Ath 

Nku 

Das 

Igirah 

Bdrah 

Terah 

Chaudah 

Pandrah 

Solah 


English. 

Seventeen 

Eighteen 

Nineteen 

Twenty 

Twenty-one 

Twenty-two 

Twenty-three 

Twenty-four 

Twenty-five 

Twenty-six 

Twenty-seven 

Twenty-eight 

Tweniy-nine 

Thirty 

Thiriy-»ono 

Thirty-two    ^,^ 


Hindu. 

Satrah 

Atharah 

Uiiis 

Bis 

Ikfs 

Bdfs 

Tefs 

Chaubfs 

Pachis 

Chhabbia 

Satdls 

Athd'is 

Untis  './-. 

Tis 

Iktis 


Ixxxviii 

English. 

Thirty-three 

Thirty-four 

Thirty-five 

Thirty-six 

Thirty-seven 

Thirty-eight 

Thirty-nine 

Forty 

Forty-one 

Forty*two 

Forly-three 

Foriy-four 

Forty-five 

Forty-six 

Forty-seven 

Forty*ei^t 

Forty-nine 

Fifty 

Fifty-one 

Fifty-two 

Fifty-three 

Fifty-four 

Fifty-five 

Fifty-six 

Fifty-seven 

Fifty-eight 

Fifty-nine 

Sixty 

Sixty-one 

Sixty-two 

Sixty-three 

Sixty-four 

Sixty-five 

Sixty-six 

Sixty-seven 

Sixty-eight 

Sixty-nine 

Seventy 

Seventy-one 

Seventy-two 

Seventy-three 

Seventy-four 

Seventy-five 

Seventy-six 

Seventy-seven 

Seventy -eight 

Seventy-nine 

Eighty      ' 

Eighty-one 

Eighty-two 

Eighty-three 

Eighty-fout 

Eighty-five 


HINDU  WORDS 

India 

Hindu. 

English. 

HlNDUt 

Tetfs 

Eighty-flix 

Chhiisi 

ChautM 

Eighty-seven 

Sat^i 

Paintis 

Eighty-eight 

Athasi 

Chhattis 

Eighty-nine 

Nkuasi 

Saintis 

Ninety 

Nauwe 

Athtis 

Ninety-one 

Ikanawe 

UfichdHs 

Ninety-two 

Bdnawe 

Chairs 

Ninety-tbree 

Tiranawe 

Iktdlis 

Ninety-four 

Chauranawo 

Be'ah's 

Ninety -five 

Pachanawe 

Tetalis 

Ninety-six 

Chiydnawe 

Chau'dlfe 

Ninety-seven 

Satanawe 

Paintalis 

Ninety-eight 

Athanawe 

Chhiyah's 

Ninety-nine 

Nindnawe 

Saintah's 

A  hundred 

Sau 

Athtalis 

Two  hundred 

Do  sau 

Unchds 

Three  hundred 

Tin  sau 

Pachds 

Four  hundred 

Chirsau 

Ikawan 

Five  hundred 

Panch  sau 

Bawan 

Six  hundred 

Chhah  sau 

Tirpan 

Seven  hundred 

Sat  sau 

Chauwaa 

Eight  hundred 

Ath  sau 

Pachpan 

Nine  hundred 

Nau  sau 

Chhapan 

A  thousand 

Hazar 

Satawan 

Ten  thousand 

Das  hazar 

Athawan 

A  hundred  thou- 

Lakh 

Unsath 

sand 

Sdth* 

A  million 

Das  Ukh 

Ik^th 

Ten  millions 

Kror 

Bdsath 

A  quarter 

Pdo 

Tirsath 

A  half 

AdU 

Chausath 

Three-quarters 
One  and  a  quarter 

Paoha,  tin  pdo  * 

Painsath 

Tiwd 

Chhiyasath 

One  and  a  half 

Derh 

Satsath 

One  and  three- 

Pdone  do 

Athstha 

quarters 

Unhattar 

Two  and  a  quartei 

Sawddo 

Sattar 

Two  and  a  half 

Arhdi 

Ikhattar 

Two  and  three- 

Pdone  tin 

Bahattar 

quarters 

Tihattar 

Three  and  a 

Sawa  tin 

Chauhattar 

quarter 

Pachhattar 

Three  and  a  half 

Sdrhe  tin 

Chhihattar 

Three  and  three- 

Pdone  chdr 

Sathattar 

quarters 

Athhattar 

Four  and  a  quarter  Sawa  char 

Unasi 

Four  and  a  half 

Sdrhe  char 

Assi 

Four  and  three- 

Pdone  pdnch 

Ikdsi 

quarters 
A  third 

Be'isi 

Tisrd  hissan 

Tirisi 

Two-thirds 

Dotisrd'hiassh 

Chaurdsi 

A  fifth 

Pdnchwdn  hissah 

Panchasi 

A  sixth 

Chhathan  hissah 

I  A  aoarUr  leu  than,  pdoiu ;  a  half  pioM  than,  «irJ^ 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


Mrol 

INDIAN  COtNAGfi 

English. 

filNDTJ. 

English. 

Hindu. 

A  seventh 

Sdtwdn  hissah 

November 

KArtik 

An  eighth 

Athwdn  hissah 

December 

Aghan 

A  tenth 

Daswdn  hissah 

Days. 

Bdr, 

Mmths. 

Mahine.^ 

Sunday 

Etwdr 

Monday 

Sombar 

January 
7ebraary 

Pus 

Tuesday 
Wednesday 

Mangal 
Budh 

Xarch 

Pha^n 

Thursday 

Brih 

'April 

Ciiait 

Friday 

Juma 

May 
Vane 

Baisakh 
Jeth 

Saturday 

Sanichrd 

July 

Askrh 

East 

Purab 

August 

Sawan 

West 

Pachhim 

September 

Bhddon 

North 

Uttar 

October 

Asan 

South 

Dakhin 

Ixxxix 


Indian  Coinage 
Silver  Goim — 

The  Rupee  (sixteen  annas)  is  assumed  to  be  equal  to  2s.,  but  its 
value  in  gold  has  snnk  as  low  as  Is.  2^d. 

Half  Rupee  =  eight  annas. 

Quarter  Rupee  =  four  annas. 

One  Eighth  of  a  Rupee  =  two  annas. 

Copper  Coins — 

One  Anna  =  lour  pice  =  twelve  pie. 
Half  Anna  =  two  pice  =  six  pie. 
Quarter  Anna  =  one  pice  =  three  pie. 


The  following  Abbreviations  are  used  in  the  Routes  given  in 
THIS  Book.  I 

..  Post-office. 

..  River  left  bank. 


D  B  i  ^^^  Bungalow,  a  rest 

\     house  for  travellers. 

div.  Division  of  the  army. 

E.  I,  G.   East  India  Company. 

E.     East. 

n. Feet. 

ff. Hotel. 

in,    Inch. 

I  Left  hand. 

juM Junction. 

n, Mile. 

M North. 

P- Page. 


p,  0 

r,lh.  ... 

r.  h Right  bank. 

R. Refreshment  Room. 

R,H.  Rest-house. 

rly Railway. 

rs Rupees. 

Roy,  As.  Soc.  Royal  Asiatic  Society, 

r.  &rt Right  hand. 

sta Station. 

S, South. 

W,  West. 

yds, Yards. 


ifi  This  sign  in  the  text  appended  to  a  name  indicates  that  further  informa- 
tion relating  to  the  subject  is  to  be  found  in  the  hidei^  amd  Directory  at  the 

end. 

^  The  Indian  months  begin  ahout  thn  15th  of  the  English  month ;  thus  Pi'is  is  tli« 
latter  half  of  January  and  the  first  half  of  February,  and  so  with  all  the  other  months. 


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INDIA 
BUEMA  AND  CEYLON 


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1901-1902. 

IMPORTANT  INFOEMATION  FOR  TRAVELLERS 
IN   INDIA. 


Calcutta  to  Bombay  (shortest 

boute). 

(See  Routes  1  and  3). 

Xow  that  the  Bengal  Nagpur  Rail- 
WOT  has  a  direct  entry  into  Calcutta, 
in*  Khargpur,  the  distance  between 
tint  city  and  Bombay  has  been  short- 
eBfd  to  1221  miles,  and  the  journey  is 
affomplished  in  44j  hours. 

The  Grand  Circular  Tour  of 
India. 

Travellers  should  note  that  with  the 
opening  of  through  direct  railway 
communication  between  Calcutta  and 
Madras,  lately  effected,  and  with  the 
establishment  of  an  "  overland  '*  service 
six  days  a  week  between  Madras  and 
Colombo,  it  is  now  possible  to  make  a 
grand  cii-cular  railway  tour  through 
India,  beginning  at  Bombay  and  ending 
,it  Colombo,  or  vice  versdy  and  visiting 
'ill  raiUe  all  places  of  interest  in  South- 
era,  Northern,  and  Western  India. 


SKELETON  ROUTE. 
Calcutta  to  Madras,  1031  miles, 

YTHE  BeNGAL-NaGPUR  AND  MADRAS 
UlLWAYS,    via    MiDNAPUR    (Kharg- 

I'R),  Balasobe,  Cuttack  (and  Puri), 
JfliLKA  Lake,  Vizagapatam,  Cocan- 
lda,  and  Bezwada. 

Calcutta,  see  p.  52  (see  also  Rte.  21). 

34  m.  Kola  Gbaut  (R.)  Here  the 
ailway  crosses  the  Roopnarain  River, 
I  large  tidal  river  flowing  into  the 
loognly,  at  its  junction  with  which 
ire  the  famous  James  and  Mary  sands, 
he  scene  of  so  many  wrecks  in  the 
looghly.  The  bridge  over  this  river, 
Ibout  i  mile  in  length,  is  a  very  fine 
iic,  and   from  the   engineering  diffi- 


culties met  with  in  constructing  it,  it 
ranks  as  one  of  the  most  important 
bridges  in  India. 

72  m.  Kliargpur  (R.)  An  important 
station,  being  the  junction  of  the  trans- 
peninsular  line  to  Bombay,  and  of  the 
Coast  line  to  Madras.  There  is  also  a 
short  branch  line  to  the  big  town  of 
Midnapur,  an  old  East  India  Company 
settlement,  8  miles  distant,  and 
another  line  is  now  under  construction, 
which  wiU  run  north-westwards  to 
Bankura  and  the  Jherriah  coalfields. 

144  m.  Balasore  (R.)  (D.B.)  Head- 
quarters of  Civil  District  Government 
and  an  Ordinance  station  for  testing 
shells  and  guns.  The  open  sea  makes 
it  a  favourite  resort,  and  it  promises  to 
become  in  the  near  future  a  large 
watering  place.  The  delicious  pomfret 
fish  is  procurable  and  is  finding  its  way 
into  the  Calcutta  market.  There  are 
large  Roman  Catholic  and  Baptist 
Missions  in  the  town.  The  place  was 
once  of  great  commercial  importance, 
and  both  the  Dutch  and  the  Danes  had 
factories  here.  There  are  two  curious 
old  Dutch  tombs,  dated  1683,  built 
like  three-sided  pymmids  about  20  feet 
high  in  a  small  secluded  enclosure  near 
the  native  part  of  the  town. 

202  m.  Jajpur  Road.  This  is  the 
station  for  Jajpur,  the  ancient  capital 
of  Orissa.  (For  description,  see  p.  290 
et  seq,  of  Handbook,  Fourth  Edition. ) 

253  m.  Cuttack  (R.)  (D.B.)  [For 
description,  see  pp.  288,  289  of  Hand- 
book, Fourth  Edition.] 

Within  11  miles  north  and  south  of 
Cuttack  the  railway  line  is  carried  over 
no  less  than  five  big  bridges,  the  whole 
section  comprising  the  most  difficult 
piece  of  riverine  engineering  to  be  seen 
anywhere  in  India. 


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IMPORTANT   INFORMATION  TO  TRAVELLERS   IN   INDIA 


India 


270  m.  Bhuvaneshwar.  V  [See  pp. 
283  et  seq.  of  Handbook,  Fourth 
Edition.] 

282  m.  Khurda  Road  (R.)  Junction 
for  Puri  (j^gannath)  28  miles  distant. 
[See  pp.  278  et  seq.] 

331.  m.  Burcool.  Situated  on  the 
shores  of  the  beautiful  Chilka  Lake, 
the  frontier  station  between  Madras 
and  Bengal  Presidencies.  [See  under 
Rambha  below.] 

344  m.  Rambha.  [See  p.  353  of 
Handbook,  Fourth  Edition.  The  last 
sentence  should  read  : — "  It  subse- 
quently became  the  property  of  Mr 
Minchin,  proprietor  of  a  Distillery  and 
Sugar  Factory  at  Aska,  in  the  interior 
of  the  District ;  and  now  belongs  to 
the  Rajah  of  Kallikotah  and  Atgada."] 

351  m.  Homma.  The  site  of  the 
large  Government  Salt  Factory,  the 
salt  being  manufactured  from  sea- water 
by  evaporation  in  **  salt-pans,"  which 
can  be  seen  between  the  railway  and 
the  sea. 

355  m.  Ganjam.  [See  under  Humma, 
p.  353  of  Handbook,  Fourth  Edition.] 
360  m.  Chatrapur.     [See  p.  353.] 
374  m.  Berhampur.     [See  pp.  352, 
353.] 
420  m.  Palasa  (R.)    [See  p.  353.] 
465  m.  Chicacole  Road.   [See  p.  353.] 
508  m.  Vizianagram  (R.)    [See  pp. 
352,  353.] 

546  m.  Waltalr  (R.)    The  junction 
between  the   Bengal-Nagpur  Railway 
and    the    Madras    Railway    systems. 
[See  pp.  352.] 
548  m.  Vizagapatam.     [See  p.  352.] 
606  m.  Tuni  (R).      [See  p.  352.] 
639  m.  Saxnalkot  Junction  (R. )    See 
p.  352.] 

670  m.  Rajahmundry  (R.)  [See  p. 
352.] 

671  m.  Godavery.  The  site  of  the 
huge  Havelock  bridge  (66  spans  of  150 
feet)  over  the  Godavery  River. 

726  m.  EUore  (R.)     [See  p.  352.] 
763  m.  Bezwada  Junction  (R. )  (D.  B. ) 
An  important  station,  the  junction  of 
three  lines  :  the  Madras  Railway  (East 


Coast    line) ;    the    Nizam's    Railway, 
running  due  west  via  Hyderabad  and 
Secunderabad  to    Bombay;    and    the 
Southern  Mahratta  Railway  (Bellaiy- 
Kistna  line)  running    south-west   to 
Guntakal  Junction.     [See  pp.  358,  359 
and  360.] 
809  m.  Bapatla  (R.) 
849.    m.    Ongole    (R.)     Important 
station  of  American  Baptist  Mission. 
900  m.  Bitragunta  (R.) 
921  m.  Nellore.     Head-quarters  of  a 
Civil  District  of  the  same  name.     The 
scene  of  a  massacre  of  French  soldiers 
in  1758,  under  orders  of  Najib-ulU, 
who    subsequently  submitted  to    the 
British.      The  town  contains  an   old 
fort,  now  in  the  District  Magistrate's 
Office,  and  an  old  cemetery  with  graves 
dating  back  to  1785.     [See  p.  334.] 

945  m.  Gudur  Junction.  Junction 
for  the  South  Indian  Railway  branch 
line  to  Renigunta  Junction  (on  the 
Madras  Railway  north-west  line),  Pak- 
ala,  and  Katpadi  (Vellore)  Junction 
(on  the  Madras  Ilailway  south-west 
line). 

1009  m.  Ponneri  (R.) 
1021  m.  Ennur.  On  a  spacious 
backwater.  Formerly  a  suburban 
resort  much  frequented  by  people  from 
Madras.  The  site  of  a  large  Salt 
Factory. 

1031  m.  Madras  (Beach  Station). 
[For  description  of  Madras,  see  p.  336 
et  seq.  ] 

Madras  to  Colombo  (Overlane 
Route). 

[See  Route  31.  The  title  of  this 
route  should  be  altered] : — Madras  t< 
Colombo  via  Villupuram  (for  Pon 
dicherry),  Tanjore  Trichinopoly, 
Madura  and  Tuticorin.  The  de 
scription  up  to  p.  407  may  be  foUowec 
until  ' '  425  m.  Maniyachi "  is  reached 
when  it  should  continue  thus  : — 

425  m.  Maniyadii  Junction.  Hen 
a  branch  line  runs  to  Tinnevelly  an< 
Palamcotta.  [For  description  of  thea 
see  pp.  407  and  408.] 

443  m.  Tuticorin  (R. )  The  southei^ 
terminus  of  the  Railway,  and  tl^ 
embarking  place  for  Colombo. 


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IMPORTANT  INFORMATION  TO  TRAVELLERS  IN   INDIA 


ffistorical* — Tuticorin  was  originally 
a  Portuguese  settlement,  and  was 
founded  about  1540.  In  1658  it  was 
raptured  by  the  Dutch,  and  in  1782 
fij  the  English.  It  was  restored  to 
the  Dutch  in  1785  and  again  taken  by 
the  English  in  1795.  During  the 
Poligar  war  of  1801,  it  was  held  for  a 
short  time  by  the  Poligar  of  Panchal- 
auikurichi,  and  was  ceded  to  the  Dutch 
iu  1818.  It  was  finally  handed  over 
to  the  English  in  1825. 

Objects  of  Interest. — The  old  Dutch 
ceietery  containing  several  tombstones, 


on  wl)iioh  ^ve  carved  armorial  bearings 
and  raised  insciiptions,  is  worthy  of  a 
visit.  Twenty  miles  south  of  Tuticorin 
on  the  sea  lies  the  village  of  Ti'iohen- 
dur,  which  contains  a  large  and  impor- 
tant temple  dedicated  to  Subramanya, 
the  God  of  war,  and  second  son  of  Siva. 
The  temple  contains  some  excellent 
sculpture  and  several  inscriptions.  A 
few  miles  further  south  is  a  group  of 
16  columns  each  bearing  an  inscription. 
There  is  a  good  road  to  Trichendur,  and 
carts  can  be  hired  for  the  journey  there 
from  Tuticorin  at  Rs.  5  each. 


VnCOBIN  (R.)  I 

Hotel :  British  India  H. ,  | 
immediately  opposite  the 
station,  has  accommoda- 
tion for  three  first-class  and 
two  second-class  visitors. 
The  charge  for  board  and 
lodging  is — 

First  class,  Rs.  4-8-0 )   per 
Second  „      „  S-O-Ofdiem 

Road  Conveyance : 
Carriages  and  jutkas  are 
usually  procurable  at  the 
station,  the  fares  being  8 
and  2  annas  per  mile,  re- 
spectively. Bullock-carts 
can  be  hired  in  the  town, 
the  charge  being  2  annas 
per  mile. 

Railway  Facilities : 
first  and  second  class  car- 
rJa^ges  are  run  to  and  from 
the  pier  in  connection  with 
the  departure  and  arrival  of 
the  3£iil  steamers  to  and 
from  Colombo.  Waiting 
accommodation  is  provided 
at  the  station  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen,  and  there  is 
also  a  Ref^shment  Room 
under  the  management  of 
Messrs  Spencer  &  Co.  The 
hatler  in  charge  has  usually 
a  few  copies  of  the  Madras 
Mail  and  Madras  Times  for 
ale,  as  well  as  a  small 
itock  of  travellers*  requis- 
ites. In  case  of  the  late 
i^val  of  the  Colombo 
ileamer,  Messrs  Spencer  & 
Co.  can  generally  arrange 
to  serve  breakfast  in  the 
todo.  Ice  and  aerated 
vsters  are  carried  by  all 
oyUn  line  Mail  trains  dur- 
\b%  da>y  journeys,  and  can 
bo  purchased  at  the  rates 
nilmshed  in  the  Company's 
Side. 

gbippliig      Arrange- 


ments :  A*  British  India 
Steam  Navigation  Com- 
pany's steamer  leaves  daily 
(Sundays  excepted)  at  6  ' 
P.M.  for  Colombo,  and  one  | 
arrives  from  Ceylon  daily 
(Mons.  excepted)  at  about  &  j 
A.M. ,  the  passage  occupying  | 
about  16  hours.  The  jour- 
ney between  the  pier  and 
steamer  is  made  in  a  steam 
launch  belonging  to  the 
British  India  Steamer 
Agents  at  Tuticorin,  and 
occupies  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour.  For  fur- 
ther particulars,  in  con- 
nection with  the  launch 
service,  the  Company's 
Guide  should  be  consulted. 
The  British  India  Com- 
pany's coasting  steamers 
between  Calcutta  and 
Bombay  touch  at  Tuticorin 
once  a  week  and  their 
other  vessels  as  occasion 
offers.  The  Asiatic  Com- 
pany's steamers  and  those 
of  the  Japanese  line  also 
call  at  the  port.  A  large 
number  of  sailing  boats  of 
20  tons  burden  are  always 
procurable  on  an  average 
payment  of  Rs.  12.8  per 
trip  to  steamer  and  back. 
The  pier  belongs  to  Govern- 
ment, and  is  under  the 
control  of  the  Port  OflRcer. 
There  are  also  several  pri- 
vate jetties  belonging  to 
the  various  mercantile 
firms. 

Local  Manufacturers 
and  Products:  There  is 
a  large  Government  salt 
factory  about  a  mile-and-a- 
half  from  the  station,  with 
which  it  is  connected  by  a 
siding.  In  the  town  are 
several  cotton  presses  and 


an  important  Spinning 
Mill.  Tuticorin  is  the 
centre  of  very  ancient 
pearl  and  conch  shell  fish- 
eries, but  since  the  deep- 
ening of  the  Pamban  Chan- 
nel between  India  and 
Ceylon,  the  yield  has 
greatly  decreased.  The 
Manaar  pearl,  which  is  not 
of  good  colour,  is  usually 
fished  for  in  March,  April 
and  May,  under  Govern- 
ment management. 

Local  Officials:  The 
oflBcials  having  offices  at 
Tuticorin  are  the  Sub- 
Collector,  Deputy  Tahsil- 
dar,  Sub-Registrar,  Assis- 
tant Superintendent  and 
Inspector  of  Police,  Assis- 
tant Commissioner  of  Salt 
and  Abkari,  Customs  Sup- 
erintendent, and  the  Port 
Ofticer,  who  is  also  the 
Superintendent  of  Pearl 
Fisheries.  The  Bank  of 
Madras  and  National  Bank 
of  India  have  branches, 
and  British  India  and  Asi- 
atic Steam  Navigation 
Companies,  Agencies  in  the 
town. 

Missions,  Churches, 
etc :  The  Society  for  the 
Propagation  of  the  Gospel 
maintains  a  training  school, 
and  a  College  named  after 
the  late  Bishop  Caldwell. 
Within  easy  reach  of  the 
station  are  a  Protestant 
and  two  Roman  Catholic 
Churches.  The  native 
fishing  community  profess 
Christianity  to  a  large 
extent,  and  are  almost 
entirely  Roman  Catholics. 

Club :  A  Club  for  Euro- 
peans is  situated  on  the 
sea  front. 


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IMPORTANT  INFORMATION  TO  TRAVELLERS  IN  INDIA 


India 


p.  Ixxxix. — Silver  CoinsL^The  value 
of  the  Rupee  iu  gold  is  iio\r  fixed  at  1/4. 

P.  289,  line  34— *  "The  launches  .  . 
Calcutta.  " — This  is  not  required  now 
that  through  railway  cdhimunication 
is  opened  from  Calcutta  to  Madras. 


P.  318,  col.  1,  line  10.- 
40  houra  read  32  hours. 


-For  about 


P.  366,  col.  2,  line  2  from  bottom— 
Cannannore.  —  A  railway  S.  along 
the  coast,  via  Tellicherry,  to  Calicut 
is  about  to  be  opened  (1901)  and 
eventually  it  is  to  be  continued  N.  to 
Mangalore,  p.  365. 

P.  369,  col.  1,  line  10  from  bottom- 
Cochin. — A  i-ailway  to  Shoran  on  the 
Madras  Railway  (Calicut  line)  is  now 
(1901)  being  constructed,  and  will 
shortly  be  opened. 

P.  405,  col.  1,  line  14. —Madura.— 
A  railway  is  now  (1901)  being  con- 
structed from  here  to  Paunben  (Rames- 
waram,  pp.  371  and  400),  which  will 
probably  take  the  place  of  Tuticorin  as 
the  starting  place  for  steamers  for 
Colombo,  deep  water  allowing  vessels 
to  get  close  in  shore,  whereas  at  Tuti- 


corin they  have  to  lie  several  miles 
out. 

P.  376,  col.  1,  line  4  from  bottom.— 
Bowringpet.— The  Kolar  Gold  Mines 
are  well  worthy  of  a  visit,  over  50,000 
miners  are  employed.  Since  1881  the 
yield  has  been  £12,000,000.  It  is 
proposed  to  work  the  mines  bv  elec- 
tricity to  be  generated  by  the  force  of 
the  Cauvery  Falls  (p.  279). 

P.  388,  col.  1,  last  line— Mettupil- 
aiyam. — This  is  the  terminus  of  the 
broad-guage  line,  and  the  junction  with 
the  Nilgiri  Mountain  Railway,  which 
mns  as  far  as  Coonoor,  17  miles,  and 
which  is  eventually  to  be  continued  to 
Ootacamund,  12  miles  further.  The 
Nilgiri  Railway  is  the  metre  gauge, 
and  on  the  mountain  gradient  is  fur- 
nished with  a  central  rack  rail,  enabling 
it  to  ascend  1  in  12.  The  scenery  is 
magnificent,  and  the  journey  up,  in 
the  course  of  which  the  line  ascends 
6000  feet,  occupies  3^  hrs.,  the  journey 
down  occupying  2 J  hi-s.  From  Coonoor 
to  Ootacamund  the  journey  is  done  in 
pair-horse  cunicles  (tongas)  provided 
by  the  Railway  Company,  w^hich  under- 
takes through  booking  for  passengers 
and  luggage. 


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BOMBAY  :^i  AND  ENVIRONS. 

CONTENTS. 


k>laba  Cemetery 
temetery,  Parell . 
neteries 

Ation  Orotind    . 
ilence . 
1  Saints',  Malabar  Hill 


■ch,  Byculla 

•cb,  frgaon 

I  of  Scotland 
holic  Church 
1*8  (Scotch  Presbyterii 
I  Colaba 


ian) 


;Mazagon 


dex  and  Directory). 


E  O.,  Prince's,  Sassoon, 
k  Graving,  Merewether 


I  Institutions — 
I  College  for  Parsi  Ladies 
"If  ission)  High  School 
i-Islam  . 
|Hi^  School  for  Girls  . 
De  College     . 

one  High  School 
tArt        .       .        . 
f  Jesuit  College 


>le8  of  Kanhari 


^  Falls 
rCave 
r  Caves 


voir 


Cription  of  Bombay 

il  Position 

i  Houses,  Malabar  Point, 


Vic. 


PAGE 
18 

7 

10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

9 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

9 
10 
10 


Parell     6 


J  Index  and  Directory). 
fArts  and  Manufactures 

OharltaUe  and  otherwise, 

Is,  etc. — 
[^Hospital        .       .       .       . 

nt  Home,  Colaba 


Institutions,  etc.— 

European  General  Hospital 

Gokaldas  Hospital       . 

Grant  Medical  College . 

House  of  Correction     . 

Incurable  Hospital 

Jamshidji  Dharmsala  . 
„         Hospital 

Motlebai  Obstetric  Hospital 

Ophthalmic  Hospital  . 

Parsi  Almshouse  .... 
„     Dharmsala  .... 

Pestonji  Kama,  for  Women  and  Children 

PinjraPol 

Sailors'  Home       .... 

St.  George's  Hospital   . 

Sir  Jamshidtji  Jijibhai's  Parsi  Benevo- 
lent Institution 

Sir  D.  M.  Petit  Hospital      . 

Workhouse 

Institutions— Literary  and  Scientific- 
Anthropological  Society 

Asiatic  Society     .... 

Mechanics*  or  Sassoon  Institute . 

Natiu^  History  Society 
Landing  and  Landing-places  . 
Lighthouses — Kennery,  Prong 
Markets — 

Cotton  Market,  Colaba 

Crawford     „         .... 

Nul  , 

Missions 

Municipal  Buildings 
Museum  and  Victoria  Gardens 
Native  Quarter        .... 
Observatory  at  Colaba     . 
Public  Offices- 
Courts  of  Justice  .... 

Mint      ...  .       . 

Post  Office 

Presidential  Secretariat 

Public  Works'  Secretariat    . 

Telegraph  Office    .... 

Town  Hall 

University  Library  and  Clock  Tower 

University  Hall    .... 

Shooting 

Shops  (see  Index  and  Directory). 

Statues     .... 

Suburbs— Breach  Candy,  Byculla,  Mala 

bar  Hill,  Mazagon,  Parell    . 
Temples— Hindu     .... 
Victoria  Railway  Station 


13 

is 

14 
15 
14 
14 
14 
14 
14 
15 
14 
IS 
15 
13 
18 

14 
14 

15 

15 
15 
15 
15 


17 
16 
17 
10 

7 

16 
17 

7 

4 
5 
5 
4 
6 
5 
5 
4 
4 
18 

15 

S 
18 
6 


from  one  another  by  very  narrow  chan- 
nels, some  of  which  have  now  been  filled 
up.  They  are  :  1.  Bassein  ;  2.  Dravi ;  3. 
Versova ;  4.  Salsette ;  5.  Trombay,  in 

mark  implies  that  further  information  is  to  be  found  in  the  Index  and  Directory 


HD  OF  Bombay  is  situated  in 
8'46",  long.  72''52'.  It  is  one 
J  of  islands  which  were  at  one 
ii-ated  from  the  mainland  and 


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BOMBAY  AND  BNVIBONS 


Iniii 


which  the  hill  called  the  Neat's  Tongue, 
900  ft  high,  is  a  conspicuous  mark ; 
6.  Bombay  ;  7.  Old  Woman's  Island  ; 
8.  Colaba;  9.  Elephanta;  10.  Butcher's 
Island;  11.  Oibbet  Island;  12.  Ear- 
anja. 

Bombay  Island  is  11}  m.  long  from 
the  S.  extremity  of  Colaba  to  Sion 
Causewayi  over  which  the  railway  passes 
to  the  larger  island  of  Salsette,  and  from 
8  to  4  m.  broad  in  that  portion  which 
lies  to  the  N.  of  the  Esplanade.  It  is 
difficult  to  estimate  its  area,  but  it 
may  be  put  down  as  about  22  sq.  m. 
The  last  census  (1891)  of  the  city  is 
821,764,  viz. : 


HiDdofl  .  .  548,291 
Mohammedans  154,247 
Qhristians  .  45,810 
Baddhists  190 

Jains  .    25.225 


Parsil   .        .47,458 
Jews     .       .    5,021 
Atheists,  other 
than  Buddhists 
and  Jains      .        8S 


Limiting  the  area  of  Calcutta  to  the 
municipality,  and  excluding  the 
suburbs,  Bombay  ranks  as  the  second 
most  populous  city  in  the  British 
Empire.  Most  of  its  population  is 
crowded  into  an  area  or  about  4 
sq.  m.  From  the  8th  August  1896 
to  the  80th  June  1897,  there  were 
27,597  deaths  in  Bombay  of  plague, 
or  bubonic  fever.  Of  those  attacked 
60  p.  c.  died.  The  epidemic  was  of 
a  comparatively  mild  form,  but  re- 
sulted in  great  loss  to  business  men, 
owing  to  the  world-wide  quarantine 
imposed  upon  all  vessels  from  Bombay. 

Climate. — ^The  average  temperature 
of  Bombay  is  79*2**  F.  It  is  neither 
so  hot  in  summer  nor  so  cold  in  winter 
as  many  places  in  the  interior.  The 
coolest  months  are  from  November  till 
March.  The  S.W.  monsoon  begins 
about  the  second  week  in  June,  and  the 
rains  continue  till  the  end  of  September. 
The  average  rainfall  is  70*80  in. 

Bombay  Harbour.— On  approaching 
Bombay  from  the  W.  there  is  little  to 
strike  the  eye.  The  coast  of  the  island 
is  low,  the  highest  point,  Midabar 
Hill,  being  only  180  ft.  above  the  sea. 
But  on  entering  the  harbour  a  stranger 
must  be  impressed  with  the  pictur- 


esqueness  of  the  scene.  To  the  W* 
the  shore  is  crowded  with  buildings 
some  of  them,  as  Colaba  Church  mi 
the  Tower  of  the  University,  very  lofty 
and  well  proportioned.  To  the  K.md 
£.  are  numerous  islands,  and  on  till 
mi^inland  hills  rising  to  an  altitude  cH 
from  1000  to  2000  ft  Pre-emiMni 
amongst  these  is  the  remarkable  Ull 
of  Bawa  Malane,  otherwise  called  Ibl- 
lan^idh,  on  tiie  top  of  which  is  in 
enormous  mass  of  rock  with  perpn* 
dicular  sides,  crowned  with  a  fort  »w 
in  ruins.  On  the  plateau  below  fte 
scarp  was  a  strone  fortress  which,  in 
1780,  was  captured  by  Captain  Abiig- 
ton,  who,  however,  found  the  np|er 
fort  quite  impregnable.  (See  Grait 
Duff,  vol.  iL  p.  41.) 

The  port  is  crowded  with  vessels  d 
all  nations,  and  conspicuous  amongst 
them  are  2  monitors,  for  the  defence  o^ 
the  Harbour.  These  are  called  the 
Abyssinia  and  the  Magdala,  and  are 
armed  with  8-inch  guns  in  2  turrets. 
There  are  also  2  torpedo  catchers, 
and  6  fast  torpedo  boats.  The  main 
defences,  remoaelled  and  armed  with 
the  newest  and  heaviest  guns,  consiBt 
of  batteries  on  the  islands  in  the 
harbour.  The  fort  most  to  the  S.  is 
called  the  Oyster  Roek;  that  on  the 
Middle  Ground  shoal  is  in  the  middle 
of  the  anchorage.  The  third  defence 
is  on  Cross  Island,  at  the  N.  end  of  th( 
anchorage.  The  higher  part  of  thii 
island  has  been  cut  down  and  armec 
with  a  battery,  in  addition  to  whicl 
there  are  8  large  batteries  on  the  main 
land. 


Tianding   and   Landing  •  plaoM. - 

Passengers  are  landed  at  the  Ballari 
Pier  in  launches.  The  Custom-Hous 
officers  come  on  board  for  the  inspec 
tion  of  personal  baggage,  but  hear 
boxes  are  more  conveniently  pa8se< 
through  at  the  Custom  House.  Th 
hotel  authorities  and  Messrs.  T.  Coo] 
&  Son  generally  send  representative 
to  meet  passengers  by  each  steamei 
It  is  convenient  for  travellers  to  entrus 
their  baggage  to  one  of  them,  or  t 
their  private  native  servant,  if  the 
have  engaged  one  beforehand  and  haA 
instructed  him  to  meet  them  on  boan 


d  by  Google 


GENERAL  DESCRIPTION 


I  th«  steamer  arrives  at  night,  it  is 
ihrisable  to  remain  on  board  until  the 
loming.  The  P.  &  0,  steamer,  after 
bding  the  mail  and  most  of  the  pas- 
iDgen,  proceeds  about  1  m.  N.  up 
le  harlK>ur  to  the  docks.  Though 
le  new  tariff  of  1894  has  increased  the 
iltmber  of  articles  dutiable,  those  which 

tre  trouble  ar«  firearms  only.  If  these 
ve  not  been  in  India  before,  or 
kve  not  been  in  India  for  a  year,  a 
Ighfli  valorem  duty  is  levied  on  them, 
Hd  they  cannot  be  removed  from  the 
(usbm  House  until  the  duty  is  paid, 
t  atertificate  given  that  a  full  year  has 
lotilapsed  since  the  owner  left  India. 
laTellers  who  have  not  been  in  the 
t4  before  will  be  struck  by  the  pic- 
toKqneness  of  the  scene  on  landing  in 
Bftbay.  The  quaint  native  craft  at 
Aquay ;  the  crowds  of  people  dressed 

■  the  most  brilliant  and  varied  cos- 
ines ;  the  Hindus  of  different  castes  ; 
h  Mohammedans,  Jews,  and  Parsis, 
■ith  a  sprinkling  from  other  national- 
ities; the  gaily  painted  bullock- carts, 
■d  other  sights  of  equal  novelty,  com- 
iie  to  make  a  lasting  impression  on 
le  stranger's  mind. 

Q«naral  Description  of  Bombay  and 
Iburbs.— The  Apollo  Bandar,  where  the 
kveller  used  to  land,  is  in  the  modern 
kronean  quarter.  As  he  stands  facing 
I,  the  narrow  promontory  of  Colahia 
foehind  him  to  the  S.E. ;  on  his  right 
•  the  Yacht  Club;  and  before  him 
letches  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the 
fr,  passing  through  '  *  The  Fort, "  with 

■  business  quarter  on  the  rt.,  and  the 
►nd  array  of  Public  Buildings — the 
ide  of  modem  Bombay — on  the  1. 
J^ogb  other  modem  cities  may  boast 
■finer  individual  buildings,  none  can 
toparewith  these  m  general  arrange- 
ifcBt  and  unity  of  effect,  "conceived 
V  the  most  part  with  a  happy  inspira- 
wi  which  blends  the  Gothic  and  the 
Mian  schools  of  architecture.  "^  On 
farther  side  W.  they  face  Back  Bay. 
■weeding  N.  the  promontory  upon 
■ich  Bombay  stands  widens.  On  the 
*wne  right  are  the  docks  and  dock- 
Ws,  on  the  left  the  bay  trends  away 
^  and  8.  to  Malabar  Hill  and  Malabar 

^  81?  Edwin  Arnold's  India  Revisited. 


Point.  In  the  centre,  at  the  junction 
of  two  thoroughfares,  are  Victoria  Sta- 
tion and  the  new  Municipal  Offices, 
the  largest  and  most  elaborate  build- 
ings in  Bombay,  with  the  Crawford 
Market  beyond  ;  and  then  commences 
the  densely  populated  native  citv,  which 
extends  N.  for  2  m.  to  the  suourbs  of 
Mazagon  and  Byculla,  and  to  the  foot 
of  MiQabar  and  Camballa  Hills. 

The  best  suburb  is  Malabar  Hill 
(about  8i  m.  from  the  Fort),  which 
affords  the  highest  and  healthiest  situa- 
tion, and  is  covered  with  charming  villas 
and  bungalows  surrounded  by  gardens. 
These  chiefly  belong  to  wealthy  natives, 
but  are  for  the  most  part  inhabited  by 
Europeans  and  Parsis.  Unfortunately 
the  best  and  highest  position  of  all 
is  occupied  by  the  gardens  attached 
to  the  Towers  of  Silence  (see  below). 
Along  the  top  of  the  same  ridge  is 
the  Ladies'  Gymkhana  —  a  favourite 
resort  in  the  evenings  (see  Index), 
and  the  little  Church  of  All  Saints. 
At  Malabar  Point,  at  the  extreme 
S.  W.,  is  Government  House,  and 
close  to  it  the  Temple  of  Walkesh- 
war,  in  an  unhealthy  depression.  To 
the  N.E.  is  Camballa  Hill  and 
Breach  Candy,  overlooking  the  Indian 
Ocean,  where  there  are  numbers 
of  pleasant  bungalows  and  villas. 
To  the  N.  is  Parell,  where  are  the 
old  Government  House  and  the  Vic- 
toria Gardens  ;  and  to  the  W.  the 
suburbs  of  Byculla  and  Mazagon,  which 
include  many  cotton  and  other  manu- 
factories and  warehouses.  At  Mazagon 
are  some  of  the  docks,  including  those 
of  the  P.  &  0.  Company. 


Public  Offices. 

One  of  the  most  conspicuous  features 
in  Bombay  is  the  impressive  line  of 
government  buildings  which  face  Back 
Bay  and  succeed  one  another  in  the  fol- 
lowing order, from  S.to  N. :  the  Govern- 
ment Secretariat,  close  to  Watson's 
Hotel  on  the  Esplanade,  University 
Hall,  Library  aiid  Clock  Tower,  Law 
Courts,  Public  "Works'  Secretariat,  Post 
Office  and  Telegraph  Offices.  There 
is  a  building  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Tele- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


graph  Offices  which  is  used  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  employes  of  the 
telegraph  department. 

The  Presidential  Secretariat  is  443 
ft.  long,  with  two  wings  81  ft  long. 
In  the  first  floor  are  the  Council  HaD, 
50  ft.  long,  Committee  Rooms,  Private 
Rooms  for  the  Governor  and  Members 
of  Council,  and  the  Offices  of  the 
Revenue  Department.  The  second 
floor  contains  the  Offices  of  the  Judicial 
and  Military  Departments.  The  style 
is  Venetian  Qothic,  and  the  designer 
was  Col.  Wilkins,  R.E.  The  carving 
is  by  native  artists.  The  staircase  is 
lighted  by  the  great  window,  90  ft. 
high,  over  which  rises  the  tower  to  170 
ft.  At  the  entrance  are  the  arms  of  Sir 
B.  Frere  (who  was  Governor  when  the 
plans  were  formulated  for  erecting 
Public  Buildings,  and  to  whom  Bom- 
bay owes  many  of  its  improvements) 
and  Sir  S.  Fitzgerald,  and  there  is  a 
very  handsome  armoire  made  of  teak, 
inlaid  with  black  wood,  all  the  work 
of  native  ai-tisans. 

The  Uniyersity  Library  and  Clock 
Tower  form  a  grand  pile,  designed  by 
Sir  Gilbert  Scott  in  the  style  of  14th- 
century  Gothic.  The  Library  is  a  long 
low  room  adorned  with  carving,  and  the 
Great  University  or  Rajabai  Tower  on 
the  W.  side  forms  part  of  it,  and  is  from 
its  height  the  most  conspicuous  building 
in  Bombay.  It  is  260  ft.  high,  and 
was  built  at  the  expnse  of  Mr.  Prem- 
chand  Raichand,  in  memory  of  his 
mother,  Rajabai.  It  cost  300,000  rs. 
He  also  gave  100,000  rs.  for  the  Library ; 
and  these  sums  with  accumulations 
more  than  sufficed  to  complete  the  two 
buildings.  The  Tower,  from  the  top  of 
which  there  is  a  fine  view  of  Bombay, 
is  divided  into  6  stories,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  octaconal  lantern  spire, 
with  figures  in  niches  at  the  angles. 
There  are  24  fibres  in  all  upon  the 
tower  representing  the  castes  of  W. 
India.  The  first  floor  forms  part  of 
the  upper  room  of  the  Library,  and  the 
second  contains  a  study  for  the  Regis- 
trar. There  is  an  opening  several  feet 
square  in  the  centre  of  each  floor,  so 
that  one  can  look  up  115  ft.  to  the 


ceiling  of  the  Dial  Room.  The  fourth 
floor  is  for  the  great  clock.  Under  the 
dials  outside  are  4  small  galleries,  vith 
stone  balustrades. 

University  HalL— This  fine  building, 
in  the  French  Decorated  style  of  the 
15th  cent,  is  104  ft.  long,  44  ft.  broid, 
and  68  ft  high  to  the  apex  of  the 
groined  ceiling,  with  an  apse  separated 
from  the  Hall  by  a  grand  arch,  ani  a 
gallery,  8  ft  broad,  round  three  site. 
The  painted  glass  windows  have  an 
excellent  effect,  and  are  also  most  vm- 
ful  in  tempering  the  fierceness  of  fte 
Indian  sun.  The  Hall,  designed  by  8u 
Gilbert  Scott,  R.A.,  is  called  after  ftr 
Cowasjee  Jehangir,  who  contributed 
100,000  rs.  towards  the  cost  of  erection. 
It  was  completed  in  1874. 

The  Cotute  of  Justice. — This  im- 
mense building,  562  ft  long,  with  a 
tower  176  ft.  high,  was  designed  by 
Gen.  J.  A.  Fuller,  R.E.,  is  said  to  have 
cost  £100,000,  and  was  opened  in  1879. 
The  style  is  Early  English.  Th^ 
principsd  entrance  is  under  a  large 
arched  porch  in  the  W.  &9ade,  on 
either  side  of  which  is  an  octagon  towei 
120  ft.  high,  with  pinnacles  of  white 
Porbandar  stone,  and  surmounted  hy 
statues  of  Justice  and  Mercy.  The 
main  staircase  is  on  the  E.  side,  and  if 
approached  by  a  noble  groined  corridoi 
in  Porbandar  stone,  which  runs  througl 
the  building.  The  oflBces  of  the  Higl 
Court  are  on  the  first  and  third  uppei 
floors.  The  Appellate  and  Origins 
Courts  are  on  the  second  floor.  Th< 
Criminal  Court  is  in  the  centre  of  thi 
building,  above  the  main  corridor 
and  has  a  carved  teak  gallery  for  thi 
public  running  round  8  sides.  Thi 
ceiling  is  of  dark  polished  teak  ii 
panels,  with  a  carved  centre-piece 
The  floor  is  Italian  mosaic.  From  th 
windows  of  the  tower  fine  views  ar 
obtained.  On  the  £.  are  the  harbour 
fringed  with  islands,  Modi  Bay,  and  th 
Fort ;  and  to  the  W.  are  Malabar  Hil 
Back  Bay,  and  S.  Colaba  Point 

Separated  from  the  Post  Office  by 
broad  road  which  leads  E.  to  the  Foi 
by  Church  Gate  Road,  and  W.  to  th 
Church  Gate  station  of  the  B.  B. 


d  by  Google 


*1 


PUBLIC  OFFICES 


dl.  fiailway,  is  the  Public  Works' 
fecretariat,  with  a  fa9ade  288  ft.  long ; 
ike  central  part  having  6  stories. 
The  Railway,    Irrigation,   etc.    De- 
^rtments  are  in  this  office. 

Tlie  Post  Office  has  3  floors,  and  is 
3(2  ft  long;  with  wings  on  the  N.  side. 
It  is  in  the  mediaeval  style  (architect, 
Irutshawe).  The  stone  used  is  the 
Ame  as  that  of  the  Telegraph  Offices ; 
tie  tmui^ment  is  exceUent  in  point 
tf  cmvenience. 

Ike  Telegraph  Office,  in  modem 
Gotic  style,  has  a  fa9ade  182  ft  long. 
Thi  facing  is  of  coursed  rubble  stone 
fro  Coorla  in  Salsette,  and  the  columns 
anof  blue  basalt. 

The  State  Becord  Office  and  Patent 
flfice  occupy  the  W.  wing  of  the 
flphinstone  College,  close  to  the 
Jiechanics*  Institute.  Amongst  the 
records  are  preserved  the  oldest  docu- 
ment relating  to  the  Indian  Empire,  a 
fetter  from  Surat,  1630  ;  and  the  letter 
rf  the  Duke  of  Wellington  announcing 
4e  victory  at  Assaye. 

:  The  Town  Hall,  in  the  Elphinstone 
j6rele,  designed  by  Col.  T.  Cowper,  was 

rsned  in  1 835,  and  cost  about  £60,000, 
far  the  larger  portion  being  defrayed 
^  the  E.  I.  Comp.  The  buflding  has 
I  colonnade  in  iront,  and  the  fa9ade 
1260  ft.  long.  The  pillars  in  front, 
fed  ^  external  character  of  the 
^ce,  are  Doric  ;  the  interior  is  Cor- 
Ithian. 

On  the  ground  floor  are  :  the  Medical 
fcard  oihces,  in  which  are  four  hand- 
|me  Ionic  pillars,  copied  from  those 
<a  temple  on  the  banks  of  the  llyssus ; 
ad  the  office  of  the  Alilitary  Auditor- 
fenend,  and  some  of  the  weightier 
inosities  of  the  Asiatic  Society.  In 
le  upper  story  is  the  Grand  As- 
lubly  Soom,  100  ft.  square,  in  which 
iblic  meetings  and  balls  are  held ; 
Assembly  Room  of  the  Bombay 
ktk  Society  ;  and  the  Library  of 
Society,  founded  by  Sir  James 
'  itoeh,  containing  about  100,000 
A  stranger  can  have  gratui- 
to  the  rooms  for  a  month  by 


an  order  from  one  of  the  members  of 
the  Society.  The  Levee  Rooms  of  the 
Governor  and  the  Commander-in-Chief, 
the  Council  Room,  etc.,  are  no  longer 
used  for  their  original  purposes.  The 
place  of  honour  in  the  Grand  Assembly 
Rooms  is  occupied  by  a  statue  of  the 
distingulBhed  Governor  Mountstuart 
Elphinstone,  executed  by  Chantrey,  as 
are  also  those  of  Sir  J.  Malcolm  and 
Sir  C.  Forbes.  At  the  head  of  the 
staircase,  on  one  side,  is  a  fine  statue 
of  Lord  Elphinstone,  the  Governor 
during  the  Mutiny,  and  on  the  other 
side  is  a  statue  of  Sir  Bartle  Frere,  an 
excellent  likeness.  Between  the  cir- 
cular flights  of  stairs  is  the  statue  of 
Sir  Jamsnidji  Jijibhai. 

The  Council  Room  contains  mctures, 
by  Mr.  Wales,  of  Baji  Rao  Peshwa, 
(whose  adopted  son,  Nana  Dhundu 
Pant,  will  be  ever  infamous  as  the 
author  of  the  massacre  at  Cawnpore) ; 
of  Baji  Rao's  celebrated  minister,  Nana 
Farnavis ;  and  of  Mahada^i  Sindia. 
In  the  Asiatic  Society's  Library  are 
busts  of  Sir  James  Carnac  by  Chantrey 
and  Sir  J.  Mackintosh.  The  Geo- 
graphical Room  contains  pictures  of 
Sir  A.  Burnes,  and  Sir  C.  Malcolm 
and  Captain  Ross,  the  two  first  Presi- 
dents of  the  Geographical  Society ; 
also  a  very  fine  collection  of  maps. 

The  Mint  is  close  to  the  Town  Hall, 
but  farther  back,  having  a  tank  in  front 
of  it.  It  is  a  plain  building,  with  an 
Ionic  portico,  designed  by  Major  J. 
Hawkins,  and  completed  in  1829.  It 
stands  upon  reclaimed  land,  where  con- 
siderable difficulty  was  experienced  in 
laying  the  foundations :  tne  cost  was 
in  consequence  very  great.  Author- 
ity was  granted  to  the  Company  by 
the  Crown  to  establish  a  mint  so  early 
as  1676.  In  the  Bullion  Room  there 
are  sometimes  from  £100,000  to 
£200,000  of  silver  in  London  bare, 
weighing  80  lbs.  each,  and  San  Fran- 
cisco bars,  weighing  100  lbs.  It  is 
unnecessary  to  describe  the  working 
of  the  mint  which  resembles  that  of 
similar  institutions.  Forty  specimens 
of  false  coins  are  exhibited,  one  of 
which  has  been  a  good  coin,  but  all 
the  silver  has  been  scooped  ^ut  and 

Digitized  by  VjGOQIC 


J 


6 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIBONS 


India 


lead  substituted.  These  coins  have 
been  collected  since  September  1872. 
Adjoining  the  Mint,  on  the  Ballard 
Road,  are  the  administrative  offices  of 
the  Port  Trust,  an  imposing  building. 

Government  House  at  Malabar 
Point. — It  is  a  pleasant  drive  of  about 
4  m.  from  the  Foit  along  the  seaside, 
skirting  Back  Bay,  which  on  account 
of  the  sea-breeze  is  cooler,  though  less 
interesting,  than  through  the  hot  and 
crowded  bazaars.  At  about  3  m.  from 
the  Fort  the  road  begins  to  ascend  a 
spur  of  Malabar  HilL  Near  the  top 
on  the  1.  are  the  entrance  gates  to 
the  drive,  which  in  less  than  i  m. 
through  a  shady  grove  of  trees  by  the 
sea-shore  leads  to  Government  House. 
It  is  a  building  of  no  architectural  pre- 
tensions, but  is  simply  a  bungalow,  or 
rather  a  series  of  bungalows,  with  large 
cool  rooms  and  deep  verandahs  over- 
looking the  sea,  and  a  pleasant  view 
across  Back  Bay  to  the  city  of  Bombay 
on  the  farther  side.  Some  of  the  de- 
tached bungalows  are  for  the  Governor's 
staff  and  for  guests,  all  being  from  80 
to  100  ft.  above  the  sea.  Below  them 
at  the  extreme  point  is  a  battery,  which 
could  sweep  the  sea  approach.  Not 
far  off  to  the  N.  a  large  ship,  the 
Diamond,  was  wrecked  and  80  pas- 
sengers were  drowned.  Sir  Evan  Nepean 
was  the  first  Governor  to  reside  at  Mala-, 
bar  Point.  He  went  there  in  1813,  as 
the  cool  sea-breeze  was  indispensable  to 
his  health,  and  built  an  additional  room 
to  the  Sergeants'  quarters,  which  was 
the  only  house  existing  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. In  1819-20,  Mr.  Elphin- 
stone  added  a  public  breakfast-room, 
and  a  detached  sleeping  bungalow  on 
a  small  scale.  In  1828  Sir  John  Mal- 
colm gave  up,  for  public  offices,  the 
Government  House  in  the  Fort  and  the 
Secretary's  office  in  Apollo  Street,  and 
considerably  enlarging  the  residence  at 
Malabar  Point,  regularly  constituted  it 
a  Government  House.  Close  by  is  the 
picturesque  temple  of  Walkeshwar  (see 
below).  The  drive  from  Malabar  Point, 
and  thence  along  the  sea  by  Breach 
Candy,  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful in  the  island,  and  is  thronged 
with   carriages  and  equestrians  every 


evening.  Finer  still  is  that  recently 
opened  up  bv  Gibbs  Road,  continuing 
the  Ridffe  Road  through  a  garden  of 
ferns  and  crotons  to  Camballa  Hill. 

Government  House  at  Parell  was  a 
Portuguese  place  of  worship  and  mon- 
astery, confiscated  by  the  English 
government  on  account  of  the  traitor- 
ous conduct  of  the  Jesuits  in  1720. 
Governor  Hornby  was  the  first  -who 
took  up  his  residence  there,  between 
1771-80. 

To  supply  the  required  accommoda- 
tion Mr.  Elphinstone  built  the  ri^t 
and  left  wings.  The  public  rooms  are 
in  the  centre  facing  the  W.  ITie 
drawing-room  or  ballroom  above  the 
dining-room  occupies  the  place  of  the 
old  Portuguese  chapel.  On  the  staircase 
there  is  a  bust,  and  in  the  ballroom  a 
portrait,  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington. 
At  the  end  of  the  ballroom  is  what  is 
called  the  Darbar  Room.  From  the  S. 
corridor  steps  descend  to  a  platform  in 
the  garden,  where  the  band  plays. 
The  garden  of  Parell  is  pretty,  and 
has  at  its  W.  extremity  a  tank,  and  on 
its  margin  a  terrace,  which  rises  about 
10  ft.  above  the  water  and  the  grounds. 

Since  1880  the  Governors  have  Uved 
principally  at  Malabar  Point,  and  Parell 
House  has  been  only  used  by  the  (Gover- 
nor occasionally  for  garden-parties  in 
the  winter. 

The  Victoria  Station,  terminus  of 
the  Great  Indian  Peninsular  Railway, 
stands  in  a  conspicuous  place,  in  the 
angle  between  the  Esplanade  Market 
Road  and  the  Boree  Bandar  Road,  within 
a  few  minutes  walk  of  the  Fort.  It  is 
a  vast  building,  elaborately  ornamented 
with  sculpture  and  surmounted  by  a 
large  central  dome  ;  at  the  same  time 
its  arrangements  are  found  to  be  practi- 
cally most  convenient  The  architect 
was  F.  W.  Stevens,  CLE. ;  the  style 
is  Italian  Gothic,  with  certain  Oriental 
modifications  in  the  domes.  It  cost 
the  Rly.  Comp.  £300,000,  and  was 
completed  in  1888.  It  is  one  of  the 
handsomest  building  in  Bombay,  and 
the  finest  rly.  sta.  m  India,  if  not  in 
any  country. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


1.  Victoria  Museum. 

2.  Gowalee  Tank. 

3.  Native  Theatre. 

4.  Jail. 

5.  CtariBt  Church. 

6.  Free  Church  High  School. 

7.  European  and  Mohammedan  Bury- 

ing-grounds. 
S.  Gokaloas  Hospital. 
9.  St.  Xayier  College. 
10   School  of  Art. 
Tofiustp.  6. 


11.  Marine  Battalion  Lines. 

12.  Gaiety  and  Novelty  Theatres. 

13.  European  General  Hospital. 

14.  Mint. 

16.  Town  Hall. 

16.  St  Andrew's  Church. 

17.  Lunatic  Asylum. 

18.  English  Cemetery. 

19.  Wilson  College. 

20.  Elphinstone  Reclamation. 


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Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


THE  CUSTOM  HOUSE — THE  DOCKYARD 


Tbe  Municipal  Buildings  (architect, 
F.  W.  Stevens,  CLE.)  occupy  the  angle 
between  the  Hornby  and  Cruicksbank 
Roads,  opposite  the  Victoria  Rly.  Sta. 
The  Oriental  feeling  introdnced  into 
the  Gothic  architecture  has  a  pleasine 
effect  The  tower,  255  ft.  high,  and 
saimounted  by  a  masonry  dome,  can 
be  seen  from  aU  parts  of  Bombay.  The 
central  gable  terminates  in  a  statue  13 
ft.  high  representing  "Urbs  prima  in 
Indis."  The  ^rand  staircase  is  also 
cnnnied  by  an  imposing  dome. 

Between  the  Mint  and  the  Custom 
HoQse  are  the  remains  of  the  Castle, 
coiering  300  sq.  ft.  Only  the  walls 
fadng  the  harbour  remain.     There  is 

a  flagstaff  here  from  which  siffuals  are 

oule  to  ships,  and  also  a  clock  tower, 

ibere  a  time  signal-ball,  connected  by 
la  electric  wire  with  the  Observatory 
It  Colaba,  in  which  are  valuable 
arrangements  for  magnetic  and  other 
observations,  falls  at  1  p.m. 

Adjoining  the  Castle  is  the  Arsenal 
[order  for  admittance  must  be  obtained 
from  the  Inspector-General  of  Ordnance 
at  Poona).  Besides  the  usual  warlike 
materials,  harness,  tents,  and  other 
such  necessaries  for  army  equipment 
are  made  here ;  and  here  also  is  an 
interesting  collection  of  ancient  arms 
md  old  native  weapons  of  various 
tescriptions. 

The  Custom  House  is  a  large,  ugly 
tld  building,  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the 
town  Hall  and  Cathedral  It  was  a 
Portuguese  barrack  in  1665,  and  then  a 
marter  for  dvil  servants.  Forbes  in 
ba  Oriental  Memoirs  says  that  in  1770 
ke  was  there  and  could  get  no  supper 
ir  candles,  so  he  sat  on  the  roof  read- 
ng  Shakespeare  by  moonlight  It  be- 
came a  Custom  House  in  1802.  The 
landing-place  E.  is  called  the  Town 
^ndar.  The  Dockyard  extends  hence 
to  the  Apollo  Gate,  with  a  sea-face  of 
learly  700  yds. 

The  Dodcyard.~So  early  as  1673 
the  East  India  Company  had  been 
impelled  to  build  snips  of  war  to 
protect  their  merchantmen  from  the 
ttacks  of  the  Haratha  and  Malabar 
lirates.  Surat,  however,  was  the 
diief  station  for  building  vessels,  and 
ip  to  1785  there  were  no  docks  in  ex- 


istence at  Bombay.    In  that  year  a 
vessel  was  built  at  Surat  for  the  Com- 

Cy,  and  an  officer  despatched  from 
nbay  to  inspect  it  Being  much 
pleased  with  the  skill  and  intelligence 
of  the  Parsi  foreman,  Lowii  Naushir- 
wanji,  and  knowing  that  the  Govern- 
ment was  desirous  of  establishing  a 
building-yard  at  Bombay,  this  officer 
endeavoured  to  persuade  him  to  leave 
Surat  and  take  charge  of  it.  The  Parsi, 
however,  had  too  much  honesty  to 
accept  this  advantageous  offer  without 
permission  from  his  master  to  whom  he 
was  engaged.  On  its  being  granted,  he 
proceeded  to  Bombay  with  a  few  arti- 
ficers, and  selected  a  site  for  the  docks. 
Next  year  Lowji  was  sent  to  the  N.  to 
procure  timber,  and  on  his  return  he 
brought  his  family  with  him.  From 
that  day  to  this  the  superintendence 
of  the  docks  has  been  wholly  in  Lowji's 
family ;  or,  as  it  is  well  expressed  by 
a  well-known  writer,  "The  history  of 
the  dockyard  is  that  of  the  rise  of  a 
respectable,  honest,  and  hard-working 
Parsi  family."  Up  to  this  time  the 
king's  ships  had  been  hove  down  for 
repairs  at  Hog  Island.  About  1767 
it  became  necessary  to  enlarge  the  yard. 
In  1771  two  grandsons  of  Lowii — 
Framji  Manikji  and  Jamsbidji  Banm- 
aiyi— entered  the  dockyard,  working 
as  common  carpenters  at  12  rs.  a 
month.  In  1774  Lowji  died,  leaving 
only  a  house  and  a  sum  of  money  undei 
£3000.  He  bequeathed,  however,  to 
his  family  a  more  precious  legacy, 
— the  remembrance  and  prestige  of 
his  character  for  spotless  integrity. 
Manikji  succeeded  him  as  master- 
builder,  and  Bahmanji  was  appointed 
his  assistant,  the  two  managing  the 
docks  with  increased  success.  They 
built  two  fine  ships  of  900  tons,  and 
the  men-of-war  crippled  in  the  severe 
actions  between  Sir  Edward  Hughes 
and  Admiral  Suffrein  were  docked  at 
Bombay.  Bahmanji  died  in  1790,  in 
debt  ftnd  Manikji  two  years  afterwards; 
leaving  but  a  scanty  sum  to  his  family. 
Their  sons  succeeded  them.  Jam- 
sbidji in  1802  built  the  ComwaUis 
frigate  for  the  East  India  Company 
and  his  success  determined  the  Home 
Government  to  order^he  construction 

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8 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


of  ships  for  the  Royal  Navy  at  Bombay. 
In  consequence  of  his  talents,  he  was 
permitted  to  have  the  sole  supervision 
as  master  builder.  In  1805  the  dock- 
yard was  enlarged ;  and  in  1820  the 
MindeUf  74,  built  entirely  by  Parsis, 
was  launched,  and  about  the  same  time 
the  ComioalliSt  74,  of  1767  tons.  Subse- 
quently the  WelUsley,  74,  of  1746  tons  ; 
tne  Malabar^  74 ;  the  SeringapcUam,  and 
many  other  ships  of  war  were  built ;  in- 
cluding the  Ganges,  84 ;  the  CalcuUaf 
86 ;  and  the  Miani,  of  86  guns.  All 
these  vessels  were  made  of  teak,  and 
have  sufficiently  proved  .  the  lasting 
quality  of  that  wood.  It  has  been  said 
tnat  a  teak  ship  will  last  from  four 
to  fives  times  as  long  as  one  of  English 
oak.  The  old  Loujji  Castle,  a  merchant- 
man of  about  1000  tons,  is  known  to 
have  made  voyages  for  nearly  three- 
quarters  of  a  century.  Although  the 
dockyard  has  been  of  late  years  much 
enlarged  and  furnished  with  the  best 
and  newest  machinery,  no  large  ships 
are  built  here.  The  enclosure  contains 
about  200  acres.  There  are  5  graving 
docks,  3  of  which  together  make  one 
large  dock  ;  the  Bombay  Dock,  648  ft. 
long,  57  ft.  broad  at  top,  and  34  ft.  at 
bottom,  and  with  12  ft  perpendicular 
depth;  the  other  2  graving  docks 
make  a  single  dock,  550  ft.  long,  68  ft. 
broad  at  top,  and  46  ft.  at  bottom,  and 
with  26  ft.  perpendicular  depth.  There 
are  also  4  building-slips  opposite  the 
Apollo  Pier,  and  on  the  S.E.  side  of 
the  enclosure.  Bombay  is  the  only 
important  place  near  the  open  sea  in 
India  where  the  rise  of  the  tide  is  suffi- 
cient to  permit  docks  on  a  large  scale. 
At  Bombay  the  highest  spring  tides 
reach  to  17  ft.  ;  but  the  usual  height 
is  14  ft.  The  dockyard  is  lighted  by 
electricity,  so  that  work  can  be  carried 
on  by  night  if  necessary. 

The  Duncan  Graving  Dock,  origin- 
ally constructed  in  1807,  can  be  divided 
into  two  by  means  of  a  steel  floating 
caisson ;  its  teital  length  is  630  feet  and 
depth  26  feet  at  spring  tides.  The 
Govemment  W«t  Basin,  constructed 
in  1891-3,  has  an  area  of  4^  acres,  and 
was  designed  for  the  use  of  Government 
ships ;  its  depth  is  25  feet  at  spring  tides. 

The  Bassoon  Dock  at  Colaba  is  a 


wet  dock  for  the  discharge  of  caigo 
which  has  been  purchased  by  Govcto- 
ment.  The  Bomoay,  Baroda,  and  C.  I. 
Railway  runs  to  the  S.  of  the  dock, 
and  a  siding  is  carried  under  the  very 
warehouses,  so  that  in  the  monsoon 
the  goods  are  not  wetted.  The  Bom- 
bay, Baroda,  and  C.  I.  Rly.  jons 
the  G.  I.  P.  at  Dadar,  so  that,  practi- 
cally, both  railways  join  the  doclo. 
The  Sassoon  Dock,  the  first  wet  dock 
made  in  India,  is  650  ft.  long,  with  la 
average  breadth  of  250  ft.  The  depfli 
is  19  ft.  at  high  water  at  neap  tidee^ 
and  22  ft.  at  spring  tides.  In  one  of 
the  warehouses  at  the  W.  end  are  6 
hydraulic  cotton  presses,  which  exert 
a  pressure  of  800  tons  on  each  bale. 
They  can  press  from  125  to  150  bcdes 
a  (iay.  A  bale  weighs  more  than 
deal  but  less  than  teak  of  the  same 
dimensions. 

Prince's  Dock  was  commenced  dar- 
ing the  Prince  of  Wales's  visit  in  1875- 
76.  In  excavating  it  the  remains  of 
a  submerged  forest  were  found  at  a 
depth  of  about  10  ft.  About  100  trees 
from  10  to  20  ft.  long  were  exhumed  ; 
the  wood  is  red  and  very  hard.  The 
dock  extends  over  30  acres,  and 
is  capable  of  containing  30  ocean 
steamers.  On  the  N.W.  of  this  dock 
is  the  Merewethar  (Government) 
Dock.  Adjacent  to  the  docks  is  a 
whole  street  of  warehouses  and  offices. 

The  Victoria  Dock,  S.  of  the  Prince's 
Dock  and  connected  with  it,  occupies  the 
space  formerly  taken  up  by  the  Musjid 
and  Nicol  basins.  It  covers  25  acres,  and 
has  an  entrance  80  feet  in  width. 

Both  these  docks  are  excavated  on 
the  estate  known  as  the  Elphinstone 
Reclamation,  which  has  taken  in  from 
the  sea  276  acres,  and  has  raised  and 
improved  110  acres.  The  Mody  Bay 
Reclamation  is  S.  of  the  Elphinstone 
estate.  These  two  groups  of  work 
have  transformed  the  eastern  foreshore 
of  the  island  from-  a  mud  swamp  to  a 
busy  mercantile  quarter  worthy  of  the 
capital  of  Western  India. 

Several  hours  might  be  spent  in  visit- 
ing these  vast  reclamation  works  on 
the  E.  shore  of  Bombay  Island,  ^m 
the  Custom  House  to  Sewri  on  the  N. 
On  these  works  and  on  those  at  Colaba 

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LIGHTHOUSES — CHURCHES 


ind  Back  Bay  £5,000,000  sterling  have 
been  exp»ide<L 

The  Dockyard  of  the  P.  ft  0.  Com- 
Mny  is  in  the  suburb  of  Mazagon. 
The  office  is  situated  in  the  Mazagon 
Dock  Road,  in  a  garden  with  a  profusion 
of  flowering  shrubs.  The  works  were 
Inished  in  1866.  The  dockyard  covers 
12  acres,  and  there  are  iron  sheds  for 
18,000  tons  of  coal.  The  dock  is  420 
ft.  long,  and  capable  of  receiving 
tcskIs  of  deep  draught  On  its  left, 
looking  towards  the  pier,  is  the  Ice 
Maao^tory. 

Lighthouses. 
Ihe  Kennery  Lighthouse,  which  is 
12  m.  to  the  S.  of  Bombay,  has  a 
fiad  first-class  cata-dioptric  light  in  a 
twer  161  ft.  above  high-water  mark. 
ft  cost  about  2  lakhs.  There  are  2 
32-pounders  on  the  island  for  signalling. 
The  foundation-stone  was  laid  by  Sir 
fiartle  Frere  in  1867,  and  the  light  was 
first  shown  the  following  year. 

A  ridge  or  causeway,  which  com- 
mences a  little  S.  of  the  Colaba  Ceme- 
tery, and  is  3600  ft.  long,  leads  to  the 
^ew  or  Prong  Ughthoaae,  from  the 
Old  Lighthouse,  extinguished  1874. 
This  ridge  is  diy  at  low  water  for  4 
Uja  before  and  4  days  after  full  moon. 
JTear  the  Old  Lighthouse  and  at  Colaba 
Point  are  two  modern  batteries,  and  N. 
flf  it  are  the  lines  of  the  artillery  and  the 
Wadquarters  wing  of  a  European  regi- 
ment. The  Prong  Lighthouse  is  150 
i  high,  with  walls  17  ft.  thick  at  the 
«west  story,  and  cost  £60,000.  The 
I  Solving  gear  has  to  be  wound  up  every 
5  minutes,  which  employs  2  men.  In 
tonus  the  waves  rise  50  ft.  up  the  sides, 
tid  the  tower  vibrates.  Before  this 
3ghthouse  was  built  dreadful  ship- 
necks  took  place  here,  and  many  of 
tie  bodies  of  tnose  drowned  are  interred 
91  C<^ba  Cemetery.  It  is  interesting 
to  watch  the  light  from  the  shore  of 
lack  Bay  as  it  flashes  into  full  snlen- 
ioor  and  l^en  in  a  few  seconds  tades 
ato  darkness.  The  light  can  be  seen 
^  the  distance  of  18  m.,  and  beyond 
%&  Hothouse  the  shoal  water  extends 
Ir  a  nile.     It  flashes  every  10  seci:)nds. 

Another  lighthouse  takes  the  place 
«f  "die  eld  Inner  Light  vessel 


Churohes. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Thomas  stands 
in  the  Fort,  close  to  Elphinstone  Circle. 
It  was  built  as  a  garrison  church  in 
1718,  and  made  a  cathedral  on  the 
establishment  of  the  See  of  Bombay 
in  1888,  on  which  occasion  the  low 
belfry  was  converted  into  a  high  tower. 
It  is  simple  in  plan,  and  a  mixture  of 
the  classical  and  Grothic  in  style.  The 
chancel,  added  1865,  is  a  satisfactory 
specimen  of  modem  Early  English. 
There  are  some  monuments  here  which 
deserve  attention, — one  by  Bacon  to 
Jonathan  Duncan,  Governor  for  sixteen 
years.  It  represents  him  receiving  the 
blessings  of  young  Hindus.  This  had 
reference  to  his  successful  efforts  in 
suppressing  infanticide  in  certain  dis- 
tricts near  Benares,  and  afterwards  in 
Kattywar,  through  the  zealous  and 
able  agency  of  Colonel  Walker. 

Amongst  other  monuments  to  be 
noticed  are  that  to  Cap.  G.  N.  Hardinge, 
R.N.,  who  died  in  1808,  in  a  brilliant 
engagement  when  he  took  the  frigate 
La  JHedmontiare ;  that  to  Col.  Burr, 
who  commanded  at  the  battle  of  Eirkee ; 
and  a  third  to  Major  Pottinger,  who  dis- 
tinguished himself  in  the  defence  of 
Hirat  The  fountain  in  front  of  the 
Cathedral  was  erected  by  Sir  Cowasjee 
Jehangir  Readymoney,  at  a  cost  of 
7000  rs. 

The  Afghan  Memorial  Church  of  St. 
John  the  Eyangelist  at  Colaba,  conse- 
crated in  1858,  consists  of  nave  and 
aisles  138  ft.  long,  with  a  chancel  50  ft. 
long,  and  a  tower  and  spire  198  ft.  high, 
conspicuous  for  some  distance  at  sea.  As 
in  the  great  church  of  Antioch  in  early 
ages,  and  in  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  the 
altar  is  at  the  W.  end.  The  efiect  on 
entering  is  good,  owing  to  the  length 
and  height  of  the  building,  the  simpli- 
city of  tne  architecture,  and  the  **dim 
religious  light"  diffused  through  the 
stained-glass  windows.  The  roof  is 
of  teak.  The  first  object  remarked  on 
entering  is  the  illuminated  metal  screen, 
light  and  elegantly  designed,  and  sur- 
mounted by  a  gilt  cross.  S.  of  the  main 
entrance  is  the  Baptistery,  with  a 
large  font  and  triplet  window  erected 
by  the  congregation  m  memory  of  the 

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10 


BOMBAY  AND  BNTIBONS 


India 


Rev.  Philip  Anderson,  author  of  The 
English  in  Western  India,  About  ith 
of  the  cost  of  the  spire  was  contributed 
by  Mr.  Cowasjee  Jehangir  in  1864,  a 
striking  instance  of  Parsi  liberality 
and  of  the  good  feeling  between  Parsis 
and  Europeans. 

At  the  W.  end  of  the  N.  aisle  is  a 
triplet  window,  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Greneral  David  Barr. 

The  arch  of  the  chancel  is  65  ft.  high. 
The  pulpit  was  given  by  a  member  of 
the  congregation,  the  desk  by  the 
officers  of  H.M.'s  28th  Regt.  on  leaving 
the  country  in  1864,  in  memory  of 
seven  brother  officers. 

The  brass  altar  candlesticks  were 
made  in  the  School  of  Art  at  Bombay. 
Behind  the  lectern  is  the  Litany  stool, 
inscribed,  "A  Thank  Offering  from  the 
R.  W.  Fusiliers,  1869  a.d.*'  The  choir 
desks  are  supported  by  wrought-iron 
stands,  illuminated,  and  made  in  the 
School  of  Art  The  "  memorial  mar- 
bles," are  of  alternate  colours  of  white, 
red,  yellow,  and  blue ;  and  beneath 
them  there  runs  the  following  inscrip- 
tion, painted  on  a  blue  ground : — 

This  Church  was  built  in  Memory  ol  the 
Officers  whose  names  are  written  above,  and 
of  the  Non-Commissioned  Officers  and  Priirate 
Soldiers,  too  many  to  be  so  recorded,  who  fell, 
mindftd  of  their  duty,  by  sickness  or  by  the 
sword,  in  the  Campaigns  of  Bind  and  Afghan- 
istan, A.D.  1838-1843. 

All  Saints',  the  Ridge,  Malabar  Hill. 

Christ  Church,  Byculla,  was  conse- 
crated by  Bishop  Wilson  in  1835.  It 
holds  500  people.  There  are  here  several 
monuments  and  tombs  of  interest  and 
some  monumental  brasses. 

St.  Peter's  Church,  Mazagonj  has  a 
memorial  window  to  the  officers  and 
men  drowned  in  the  S.S.  Camatic, 

St  Nicholas  Church,  at  the  docks,  is 
for  the  use  of  seamen. 

St.  Andrew's  Kirk,  in  Marine  Street, 
was  built  in  1818.  In  1826  the  steeple 
was  thrown  down  by  lightning,  and 
rebuilt  by  John  Caldecott. 

The  new  Free  Church  stands  in 
Wandby  Road,  near  the  Esplanade. 

The  Bomau  Catholic  Church,  in 
Medow  Street,  dates  from  the  begin- 
ning of  last  century.  There  is  a  bread- 
fruit  tree  in  the  inner  quadrangle. 


Missions. 

The  S.P.G.,  with  Church  in  Kamati- 
pura  Road,  has  4  missionary  clergr  in 
the  town,  and  a  branch  of  tne  Ladies' 
Association  working  in  the  zenanas. 

The  CM. 8.  (estabd.  in  Bombay  since 
1820),  has  a  Church  and  large  Sdmls 
for  boys  and  girls  at  Girgaon. 

The  Mission  Priests  of  St.  John  the 
Evangelist  (Cowley  Fathers)  serve  flie 
Ch.  of  St.  Peter's,  Mazagon,  and  h»?e 
a  Mission  House  and  Schools  for  bof  s 
and  ^rls  near  it :  also  a  native  Mission 
and  Orphanage  in  Babula  Tank  Roai 

The  ^*A11  Saints'"  Sisters  (from  Mar- 
garet St.)  have  been  working  in  Bombay 
since  1878,  and  nurse  the  following 
Hospitals:  European  General,  Jam- 
shidRi,  Pestoigi  Kama.  They  have  2 
High  Schools  for  Girls,  with  Boarding 
Schools:  one  in  Elphinstone  Circle 
called  the  Cathedral  Girls'  School,  the 
other  near  St  Peter's,  Mazagon.  Also 
St.  John's  Orphanage  for  natives 
(mostly  foundlings)  at  Umer  Khadi. 

The  American  Presbyterian  Board  oj 
Foreign  Missions  or  Maratha  Mission 
has  a  considerable  staff.  The  Uniied 
Free  Church  of  Scotland  has  a  strong 
body  of  missionaries  connected  with  the 
Wilson  Mission  College  (p.  13)  affiliated 
to  the  University. 

Cemeteries. 

The  European  Cemetery,  at  Parell, 
formerly  a  Biotanical  Garden,  opened  in 
1830,  is  a  sheltered  spot  under  Flacstafl 
Hill,  with  trees  on  either  side,  and  wai 
turned  into  a  cemetery  about  1867. 

The  Colaba  Cemetery,  beyond  th€ 
church,  at  the  extreme  point  of  th< 
promontory,  is  tolerably  well  kept,  bul 
IS  no  longer  used. 

The  Girgaon  Cemeteries  facing  Bacli 
Bay.  He  most  northerly  is  the  old 
European  cemetery,  where  was  buried 
the  celebrated  French  naturalist  apt] 
traveller  Jacquemont.  His  remaini 
were  eventually  removed  to  Fiance. 
Neither  this  nor  the  adjacent  Moham 
medui  buijing'ground  are  now  in  use 

To  the  8.  is  the  ground  for  Eindt 
Cremations,  Europeans  who  desire  ar« 
allowed  to  enter.  To  the  S.E.  is  th* 
Scotch  Cemetery,  now  closed. 

The  five  Towers  of  Bilenoe  stand  upoi 


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TOWERS  OF  SILBNCS 


11 


tHe  highest  point  of  Malabar  Hill,  100 
ft  above  the  sea.  In  order  to  see  them 
pennission  most  be  obtained  from  the 
secretary  to  the  Parsi  Panchayat.  Sir 
Jamshiif  ji  Jijibhai,  at  his  own  expense, 
made  the  road  which  leads  to  the 
Towers  on  the  N.  side,  and  gaye 
100,000  sq.  yds.  of  land  on  the  N.  and 
E.  sides  of  the  Towers.  They  are  best 
approached  by  Gibbs  Boad. 

Within  the  gateway  of  an  outer 
eBclosnre  a  flight  of  80  steps  mounts 
up  to  a  gateway  in  an  inner  wall. 
Kom  this  point  the  visitor  is  accom- 
l^ied  by  an  official  of  the  Panchayat, 
aid  turning  to  the  rt.  comes  to  a 
4Dne  building,  where,  during  funerals, 
jraycr  is  offered.  From  this  point  one 
if  the  finest  views  of  Bombay  may  be 
ibtained.  To  the  1.  are  Sion,  Sewri, 
ind  Mazagou  Hills,  and  between  them 
some  20  lofty  chimneys  of  cotton  mills 
and  other  high  buildings.  Below,  at 
the  foot  of  tne  hiU,  stretches  a  vast 
grove  of  palms,  in  which  no  human 
habitation  is  visible,  though  many  are 
concealed  by  the  broad  palm  leaves.  On 
the  rt.  are  seen  in  succession  the  new 
Municipal  Buildings,  Victoria  Sta.,  Ca- 
thedral, Grovernment  Offices,  Memorial 
Church  at  Colaba,  and  the  Prong  Light- 
bouse.  Probably  while  the  traveller  is 
looking  at  the  view,  a  funeral  will  take 
place.  A  bier  will  be  seen  carried  up 
the  steps  by  4  Nasr  Salars,  or  "  Carriei-s 
of  the  Dead,"  with  2  bearded  men 
following  them  closely,  and  perhaps 
100  Parsis  in  white  robes  walking  2  and 
2  in  procession.  The  bearded  men  who 
come  next  the  corpse  are  the  only 
persons  who  enter  the  Tower.  They 
wear  g^loves,  and  when  they  touch  the 
bones  it  is  with  tongs.  On  leaving  the 
Tower,  after  depositing  the  corpse  on 
the  grating  within,  they  proceed  to 
the  puntying  place,  where  they  wash 
and  leave  the  clothes  they  have  worn 
in  a  tower  built  for  that  exijress  pur- 
jKiee.  The  Parsis  who  walk  in  proces- 
BOO  atter  the  bier  have  their  clothes 
lintol,  in  which  there  is  a  mystic 
naaning.  There  is  a  model  of  one  of 
tba  Towers  which  was  exhibited  to  the 
Prince  of  Wales,  and  is  produced  to 
TintoTS.  The  towers  are  5  in  num- 
tey  cylindrical  in  shape,  and  white- 


washed. The  largest  cost  £80,000, 
while  the  other  4  on  an  average 
cost  £20,000  each.  The  largest  tower 
is  276  ft.  round  and  25  ft.  high.  At 
8  ft  from  the  ground  is  an  aperture 
in  the  encircling  wall  about  5}  ft.  sq., 
to  which  the  carriers  of  the  dead  ascend 
by  a  flight  of  steps.  Inside,  the  plan 
of  the  building  resembles  a  circular 
gridiron,  gradually  depressed  towards 
the  centre,  in  which  is  a  well  5  ft  in 
diameter.  Besides  the  circular  wall 
which  incloses  this  well  there  are  2 
other  circular  walls  between  it  and  the 
outside,  with  footpaths  running  upon 
them  ;  the  spaces  between  them  are 
divided  into  compartments  by  radiating 
walls  from  an  ima^nary  centre.  The 
bodies  of  adult  males  are  laid  in  the 
outer  series  of  compartments  thus 
formed,  the  women  in  tne  middle  series, 
and  the  children  in  that  nearest  the 
well.  They  are  placed  in  these  grooves 
Quite  naked,  and  in  half  an  hour  the 
flesh  is  so  completely  devoured  by  the 
numerous  vultures  that  inhabit  the 
trees  around,  that  nothing  but  the 
skeleton  remains.  This  is  left  to  bleach 
in  sun  and  wind  till  it  becomes  per- 
fectly dry.  Then  the  carriers  of  the 
dead,  gloved  and  with  tongs,  remove 
the  bones  from  the  grooves  and  cast 
them  into  the  well.  Here  they  crumble 
into  dust.  Round  the  well  are  perfora- 
tions which  allow  the  rain-water  or 
other  moisture  to  escape  into  4  deep 
drains  at  the  bottom  of  the  Tower,  ana 
the  fluid  then  passes  through  charcoal 
and  becomes  disinfected  and  inodorous 
before  it  passes  into  the  sea.  There  is 
a  ladder  in  the  weU  by  which  the 
carriers  of  the  dead  descend  if  it  be 
requisite  to  remove  obstructions  from 
the  perforations.  The  dust  in  the  well 
accumulates  so  slowly  that  in  40  years 
it  rose  only  5  ft.  This  method  of  inter- 
ment originates  from  the  veneration 
the  Parsis  nay  to  the  elements,  and  their 
zealous  enaeavours  not  to  pollute  these. 
Parsis  re6i)ect  the  dead,  out  consider 
oorpses  most  unclean,  and  the  carriers 
are  a  separate  and  peculiar  class  who 
are  not  allowed  to  mix  in  social  inter- 
course with  other  Parsis.  Tet  even 
these  men  wear  gloves  and  use  tonge 
in  touching  the  remains  of  a  deceased 

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12 


BOMBAT  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


person,  and  purify  themselves  and  cast 
away  their  garments  after  every  visit 
to  a  tower.  Fire  is  too  much  venerated 
by  Parsis  for  them  to  allow  it  to  be 
polluted  by  burning  the  dead.  Water 
is  almost  equally  respected,  and  so  is 
earth ;  hence  this  smgular  mode  of 
interment  has  been  devised.  There 
is,  however,  another  reason.  Zartasht 
said  that  rich  and  poor  must  meet 
in  death ;  and  this  saying  has  been 
literally  interpreted  and  carried  out 
by  the  contrivance  of  the  well,  which 
is  a  common  receptacle  for  the  dust 
of  all  Parsis,  of  Sir  Jamshid\ji  and 
other  millionaires  and  of  the  poor 
inmates  of  the  Parsi  Asylum.  In 
the  arrangements  of  the  vast  area 
which  surrounds  the  Towers  nothing 
has  been  omitted  which  could  foster 
calm  and  pleasing  meditation.  You  at 
once  arrive  at  the  house  of  prayer,  and 
around  is  a  beautiful  warden  full  of 
flowers  and  flowering  3irubs.  Here 
under  the  shade  of  fine  trees  relatives 
of  the  deceased  can  sit  and  meditate. 
The  height  of  the  hill  and  the  proximity 
of  the  sea  ensure  always  a  cool  breeze  ; 
and  the  view  to  the  W.  and  S.  over 
the  waters,  and  to  the  E.  and  K*.  over 
the  city,  the  islands  in  the  harbour 
and  the  distant  mountains  beyond,  is 
enchanting.  The  massive  gray  towers 
and  the  ^ick  woods  about  tnem  are 
very  picturesque.  Even  the  cypresses, 
as  the  Parsis  themselves  say,  tapering 
upwards,  point  the  way  to  heaven  ;  and 
it  is  certain  that  the  Parsis  follow  out 
that  thought  and  are  firm  believers  in 
the  resuiTection  and  the  re-assemblage 
of  the  atoms,  here  dispersed,  in  a 
glorified  and  incorruptible  body. 

Educational  Institutions. 
Elphinstone  College,  removed  from 
Byculla  in  1890,  now  occupies  a  large 
building  close  to  the  Mechanics*  In- 
stitute, from  which  it  is  separated  by  a 
narrow  street.  This  building  is  called 
after  Sir  Cowasjee  Jehaneir  Ready- 
money,  in  recognition  of  nis  having 
given  a  couple  of  lakhs  for  the  pur- 
pose of  building  the  original  institu- 
tion. The  Elphinstone  Institution 
was  founded  as  a  memorial  to  the 
Hon.   Mountstuart   Elphinstone,    the 


Governor  of  Bombay.  In  1866  it  was 
divided  into  a  High  School  (see  below) 
and  this  College  for  the  higher  educa- 
tion of  natives,  who  contributed  up- 
wards of  2  lakhs  to  endow  professorships 
in  English,  and  the  Arts,  Sciences,  and 
Literature  of  Europe.  The  sum  accumu- 
lated to  about  4  lakhs  and  a  half,  and 
Government  augments  the  interest  by 
an  annual  subscription  of  22,000  rs. 
There  are  16  senior  scholarships,  and 
29  junioi'  are  competed  for  annually. 
A  certain  number  of  undergraduates 
who  cannot  pay  the  College  fee  are  ad- 
mitted free.  In  1862  Sir  Alexander 
Grant,  Bart.,  was  Principal  of  the  Col- 
lege, and  some  distinguished  scholars 
have  filled  Professorships,  as,  for  in- 
stance, Mirza  Hairat,  who  translated 
Malcolm's  J7wtoryo^P(er«Mi  into  Persian. 
The  building  is  in  the  mediseval  style, 
and  contains  lecture-rooms,  library  (in 
which  is  a  portrait  of  Elphinstone  by 
Lawrence),  a  room  for  the  Principal, 
with  one  for  the  Professors,  and  donni- 
tories  above  for  the  resident  students. 
The  W.  wing  is  the  Record  Office. 

The  New  Elphinstone  High  School 
is  in  Esplanade  Cross  Road,  in  front  of 
the  W.  face  of  St.  Xavier's  College. 
Sir  Albert  Sassoon  contributed  £1500 
towards  the  cost  of  the  building.  It 
is  the  great  public  school  of  Bombay, 
and  reteined  possession  of  the  original 
buildings  on  the  Esplanade  when  the 
College  Department  was  separated  to 
form  the  Elphinstone  College. 

"  The  object  of  this  school  is  to  fur- 
nish a  high-class  and  liberal  education 
up  to  the  standard  of  the  University 
entrance  examination,  at  fees  within 
the  reach  of  the  middle-class  people  of 
Bombay  and  the  Mufassil.  it  has 
classes  for  the  study  of  English,  Mar- 
athi,  Guzerati,  Sanscrit,  Latin,  and 
Persian."  There  are  28  class-rooms, 
a  hall  on  the  first  floor  measuring 
62  X  35  ft.,  and  a  Library.  The  build- 
ing was  designed  by  G.  T.  Molecey. 

St  Xayier's  College,  near  the  W. 
end  of  the  Esplanade  Boad.  This 
Jesuit  institution,  which  serves  the 
purpose  of  school  as  well  as  college, 
grew  out  of  the  development  of  St 
Mary's  Insritutipn  and  the  European 
R.   C.  Orphanage.     The  site  for   the 

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EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS — HOSPITALS,  ETC. 


13 


CoUmw  was  granted  by  Government  in 
1867. 

The  Wilson  College'(named  after  Rey. 
Dr.  J.  Wilson,  F.R.S.',  Oriental  scholar 
ind  Scottish  missionary),  for  the 
education  of  young  men,  is  a  fine 
boildiog  near  Chami  Road  Station. 
It  eost  a  lakh  and  a  half  of  rupees,  and 
is  the  largest  college  for  natives  in 
Western  India. 

The  Alexandra  College  for  Farsi 
Ladies,  in  Kausji  Patel  Street  in  the 
Fort,  was  founded  by  the  late  Mr. 
Minikji  Ehurshidji,  who  was  amongst 
the  first  of  the  Parsi  gentlemen  to 
tnrel  in  Europe.  It  was  opened  in 
193.  The  girls  remain  in  some  cases 
to  the  age  of  24,  and  are  extremely 
Mril  instructed  in  history  and  geo- 
fliphy  and  the  English  and  Gujarati 
Signages.  They  aJso  embroider  and 
do  needle-work  exceedingly  welL  Per- 
^Ds  desirous  of  visiting  the  institution 
eould  no  doubt  obtain  permission. 

Two  High  Schools  for  Girls,  with 
Boarding  Schools  (kept  by  the  All 
Saints*  Sisters  :  one  in  Elphinstone  Cir- 
cle, called  the  Cathedral  Girls'  School, 
the  other  near  St.  Peter's,  Mazagon. 

The  Uission  High  School  at  Ambroli, 
together  with  the  church,  cost  £5000, 
and  is  being  further  extended.  There 
is  adjacent  a  college  for  youths,  where 
Sanscrit  and  Persian  are  well  taught. 

The  School  of  Art  was  first  opened 
for  pupils  in  1857.  In  1877  a  hand- 
lome  new  building  was  erected  on 
the  W.  side  of  the  Esplanade,  near  the 
(lokaldas  Hospital.  Excellent  draw- 
ings and  designs  are  made  here,  as  well 
IS  good  pottery,  arms,  artistic  work  in 
silver  and  copper,  and  decorative  carving 
in  wood  ana  stone.  The  buildings  in 
Western  India  owe  much  of  their 
beauty  to  the  work  of  students  of  this 
institution. 

150  yds.  off,  in  sheds  set  apart  for 
the  purpose,  are  the  Art  Pottery  Works, 
where  some  beautiful  designs  purely 
Indian  in  form  and  ornament  have  been 
earned  out 

The  Anjuman-i-Islam  School  is  a 
Hohammedan  School  in  Hornby  Row, 
•pp.  Victoria  Terminus ;  erected  by  the 
«M)peration  of  Government,  which  gave 
^e  site,  valued  at  158,000  rs.,  with  a 


money-grant  of  88,000  rs.,  while  the 
Mohammedans  subscribed  10,000  rs. : 
the  building  was  opened  by  Lord  Harris 
in  1893.  The  erection  of  this  school 
marks  an  epoch  in  the  history  of  the 
Mohammeoan  community.  The  build- 
ing, which  is  of  most  pleasing  appear- 
ance, was  designed  by.  Mr.  J.  Willcocks 
of  the  Public  Works  Dept 

Institutions— CHARITABLE  and 

OTHBEWISE. 

The  Royal  Alfred  Sailors'  Home,  a 

very  solid-looking  building  in  a  con- 
spicuous position  close  to  the  Apollo 
Bandar,  nas  accommodation  for  20 
officers,  58  seamen,  and  it  is  stated 
that  in  case  of  emergency  it  could  con- 
tain 100  inmates.  Officers  have  separ- 
ate and  superior  quarters.  Each  man 
pays  14  annas  a  day,  for  which  he  gets 
breakfast,  dinner,  tea,  with  hot  meat, 
at  6  P.M.,  and  supper,  and  the  use  of 
the  reading-room.  The  sculpture  in  the 
front  gable,  representing  Neptune  with 
nymphs  and  sea-horses,  was  executed 
in  Bath  stone  by  Mr.  Bolton  of  Chel- 
tenham. His  late  Highness  Khande 
Rao  Gaekwar  gave  200,000  rs.  towards 
the  cost  of  the  building,  to  commemor- 
ate the  Buke  of  Edinburgh's  visit,  and 
the  foundation-stone  was  laid  in  1870 
by  the  Duke. 

The  European  General  Hospital,*  is 
at  the  entrance  to  Boree  Bandar  Road, 
close  to  Victoria  Rly.  Sta.  Should 
the  traveller  fall  ill  in  Bombay,  he 
cannot  do  better  than  go  to  this  hos- 
pital, where  he  will  receive  the  best 
medical  treatment.  Close  beyond  in 
connection  with  this  is  the  new  St. 
George's  Hospital. 

The  Pestonji  Kama  Hospital  *  for 
Women  and  Children^  a  Gothic  build- 
ing in  Cruikshank  Road,  is  an  institu- 
tion worthy  of  attention. 

Gokaldais  Hospital,  in  Esplanade 
Cross  Road,  can  contain  126  patients, 
and  is  generally  full.  The  history  of 
this  hospital  is  rather  curious.  Mr. 
Rustamji  Jamshidji  had  offered  to.give 
£15,000  if  Government  would  give  a 
site  for  a  native  hospital  and  contribute 
£10,000  more,  and  if  the  municipality 
would  undertake  to  support  the  Institu- 

*  Nursed  by  the  "  AU  Saints'"  Sisters. 


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16 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


Circle,  facing  the  Town  Hall,  are  statues 
of  Lord  OomwalliSj  under  a  cupola,  and 
of  Lord  WeUesley,  by  Bacon,  much 
injured  by  the  effects  of  the  weather. 

On  the  ed^e  of  the  Maidan  and  close 
to  the  Pubbc  Works*  Secretariat  are 
statues  of  Sir  Richard  Temple  and 
Lord  Reay. 

The  Mnseum,  on  the  Parell  Road,  a 
handsome  building,  stands  about  100 
yds.  back  from  the  road.  Until  1857 
the  collection,  which  is  not  an  import- 
ant one,  was  kept  in  the  Fort  Barracks, 
but  on  Sir  G.  Bird  wood  being  appointed 
curator  by  Lord  Elphinstone,  ne  raised 
a  subscription  of  a  lakh  for  building 
this  Museum.  Sir  B.  Frere  laid  the 
first  stone  in  1862,  and  Gk>yemment 
completed  the  building  in  1871.  The 
Clock  Tower  in  front  of  it  was  erected 
by  Sir  Albert  Sassoon.  There  is  a  fine 
statue  of  Prince  Albert  here  by  Noble. 
The  Victoria  Gardens,  in  which  the 
Museum  stands,  have  an  area  of  34 
acres,  and  are  prettily  laid  out  The 
beautiful  Bougainvillea  is  very  con- 
spicuous. Within  the  grounds  are  a 
Menagerie  and  Deer  Park.  The  band 
plays  nere  twice  a  week,  and  it  is  a  ^eat 
resort  for  the  citizens.  The  municipal- 
ity keep  up  the  gardens  at  a  cost  of 
10,000  rs.  yearly. 

Markets. 

The  best  time  for  visiting  the  Markets 
is  early  in  the  morning,  about  7  o'clock, 
when  they  are  thronged  with  all  sorts 
and  conditions  of  men  and  women  i^ 
the  brightest  and  most  picturesque  cos- 
tumes. 

The  Crawford  Market  stands  in 
Market  Road,  which  is  approached  from 
Hornby  Row,  and  is  about  IJ  m.  N.  of 
Watson's  HoteL  This  market  was 
founded  by  Mr.  Arthur  Crawford,  C.S., 
Municipal  Commissioner  from  1865 
to  1871.  (This  able  officer  got  the 
Slaughter  Houses,  which  at  the  com- 
mencement of  his  term  of  office  were 
near  the  market,  removed  to  Bandora 
in  Salsette. )  The  market  consists  of  a 
Central  Hall,  in  which  is  a  drinking- 
fountain  given  by  Sir  Cowasjee  Jehangir 
R«adymoney,  surmounted  bv  a  Clock 
Tower,  128  ft.  high.  To  the  right  is 
a  wing,  150  ft,  by  100  ft,  in  which  are 


fruit  and  flowers,  and  on  the  lefk  is 
another  wing,  350  ft.  by  100  fL,  for 
spices  and  vegetables.  The  whole  is 
covered  with  a  double  iron  roof.  The 
^ound  is  paved  with  flag-stones  fimn 
Caithness.  '*In  that  oollection  of 
handsome  and  spacious  halls  .  .  .  fiih, 
flesh,  vegetables,  flowers,  fruit,  and 
general  commodities  are  vended  in 
separate  buildings  all  kept  in  adnnr- 
able  order  and  cleanliness,  and  all  opt- 
ing upon  green  and  shady  ^ardem" 
(Mwin  Arnold).  The  stalls  in  whiih 
the  leaves  of  the  Piper  betel  are  s<M 
should  be  noticed.  These  leaves  aie 
called  pan,  and  the  betel-nut  is  called 
supari.  The  leaves  are  spread  with 
lime,  and  the  fruit  of  the  Areca  palm 
is  wrapped  in  them.  These  leaves  are 
chewed  by  the  natives,  and  make  the 
lips  and  the  saliva  red  and  the  teeth 
black.  There  are  many  kinds  of  plan- 
tains or  bananas,  but  the  best  are  snort, 
thick,  and  yellow.  The  best  oranges 
are  those  from  Nagpur,  and  the  best 
grapes  are  from  Aurangabad.  The  black 
grape,  called  Hahshi  (the  Abyssinian),  is 
the  most  delicious,  and  the  best  white 
grape  is  the  Sahibi.  The  mangoes  come 
m  in  May,  and  are  amongst  the  finest 
fruit  in  the  world :  two  or  three  iced 
form  a  delicious  adjunct  for  breakfiist. 
The  best  are  grown  about  Mazagon ; 
the  kind  most  esteemed  is  called  the 
"  Alphonse  "  ;  large  numbers  of  an  in- 
ferior quality  come  from  Goa.  The 
Pummelow,  the  (Htru>s  decumanBt,  is 
particularly  fine  in  Bombay,  very  cool- 
ing and  wholesome,  but  somewhat 
astringent.  The  Bombay  onions  are 
famous.  The  Beef  Market  is  built  of 
iron.  The  paving-stones  were  brought 
from  Yorkshire.  The  Fish  Marketis 
at  the  end  of  the  Mutton  Market.  The 
turtles  come  from  Karachi  in  Sind. 
The  oysters  are  of  moderate  size  and 
well  flavoured.  The  Palla  fish,  gener- 
ally about  2  ft.  long,  the  salmon  of 
India,  is  excellent.  Its  flesh  is  light 
coloured,  and  has  many  troublesome 
bones.  The  best  fish  of  all  is  the  pom- 
flet,  or  pomfret,  called  SargtUali,  the 
black  kind  being  called  ffalwa.  This 
is  a  flat  fish,  about  the  size  of  a  luge 
flounder.  The  best  are  caught  at  Vera- 
wal ;  they  are  very  cheap  and  whole- 


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INDUSTRIAL  ARTS  AND  MANUFACTURES,  ETC. 


17 


some.    The  Surma,  with  projecting 
knobs,  are  not  equal  to  the  English 
flounder.    The  Bhm    Machchhi,    or 
muflet,  are  fairly  good.      The  guard- 
fish,  DatoA,  long  and  very  thin,  are 
excellent,  but  the  flesh  has  a  greenish 
colour.    The  BmJbil,   called  by  the 
English  Bommelo  and  Bombay  duck, 
is  1  glutinous  fish,  very  nice  when 
fr^,  and  much  used  when  salted  and 
dried.    Near  the  fountain,  with  its 
beaatiful  shrubs,  are  seats  for  loungers. 
Thire  is  also  a  Coffee  House,  where 
serrants  congregate,  and  which  clears 
12J0  rs.  a  year.    On  the  S.  side  is  the 
/*«%  Market,  where  fowls,  ducks 
t«keys,  snipe,  curlew,  teal,  and  occa- 
sitaUy  ilorican    may  be   purchased 
jjbn  in  season,— the  last  excellent. 
m  market  cost  over  1,100,000  rs. 
ae  crowd  in  the  Meat  and  Fish  Mar- 
ets  early  in  the  morning  Is  dense  and 
oe  hubbub  deafening. 
The  Cotton  Market  is  held  near  the 
^mway  terminus  at  Colaba.     It  is  a 
aglit  worth  seeing.    4, 000,000  cwts.  are 
ainually  exported,  and  half  that  amount 
isniadeuse  of  in  the  Bombay  spinning- 
mills,  which  number  nearly  a  hundred. 
TheNnl  Market,  between  Parell  and 
wan  Road,  supplies  a  large  part  of 
Bombay,  and  is  generally  immensely 
ffowded.   Men  and  women  may  be  seen 
pirehasing  opium,  and  the  women  ad- 
mt  that  they  give  it  to  their  infants. 
The  Pedder  Markets  at  Mazagon  are 
fi  the  middle  of  a  garden. 

Indtjstbial  Arts  and  Manu- 
factitres. 

In  Bombay  there  are  nearly  3000 
jwellers  of  the  different  Indian  nation- 
«ties  of  the  Presidency  who  find  con- 
tentand  lucrative  employmen  t.  One  of 
«e  most  active  industries  is  the  manu- 
*ctQre  of  brass  and  copper  pots  and 
«ner  utensils.  "  The  Copper  Bazaar, 
Jppsite  the  Mombadevi  Tank,  is  the 
wsiest  and  noisiest,  and  one  of  the 
»08t  delightful  streets. "  i  The  black- 
•t^od  carving  of  Bombay  is  famous, 
m  sandal-wood  and  other  carving  is 
My  carried   on    here,   also    inlay 

JjSirQ.  Birdwood'8  Industrial  Arts  of  India, 
^ch  see  for  farther  particulars. 
[India 


work ;  indeed  the  term  "  Bombay 
Boxes"  includes  sandal-wood  carving 
as  well  as  inlay  work.  Tortoise-shell 
carving  is  a  specialiU,  also  lacquered 
turnery.  Gold  and  silver  thread  is 
manufactured  and  used  for  lace,  and 
Bombay  embroidery  is  much  prized. 
The  Bombay  School  of  Pottery  (see 
above)  we  owe  to  the  exertions  of  Mr. 
Geo.  Terry,  who  has  developed  two 
original  varieties  of  glazed  potteiy  there. 

Cotton. — The  development  of  cotton- 
spinning  during  the  last  80  years  is 
remarkable.  In  1870  there  were  10 
mills  in  the  Island  of  Bombay,  em- 
ploying some  8000  hands ;  there  are 
now  101  employing  more  than  110,000 
hands. 

The  traveller  who  is  at  all  fond  of 
the  picturesque  is  strongly  recom- 
mended not  to  leave  Bombay  without 
visiting  the  Native  Quarter.  The 
streets  and  bazaars  are  narrow  and 
tortuous,  but  clean  and  bright  in  the 
extreme.  Some  of  the  houses  are 
remarkably  fine  as  works  of  art,  and 
display  undoubted  Portuguese  influ- 
ence. Their  fronts  are  covered  with 
carving,  and  in  some  cases  they  have 
projecting  stories  supported  upon  ela- 
Dorately  sculptured  corbels.  Here  and 
there  are  mosques  and  Hindu  temples 
gaudily  painted.  The  streets  teem  with 
life.  Sir  Edwin  Arnold  writes  of  them : 
"  A  tide  of  Asiatic  humanity  ebbs  and 
flows  up  and  down  the  Bhendi  bazaar, 
and  through  the  chief  mercantile 
thoroughfares.  Nowhere  could  be  seen 
a  play  of  livelier  hues,  a  busier  and 
brighter  city  life.  Besides  the  endless 
crowds  of  Hindu,  Guzerati,  and  Maratha 
people  coming  and  going — some  in  gay 
dresses,  but  most  with  next  to  none 
at  all — between  rows  of  grotesquely 
painted  houses  and  temples,  there  are 
to  be  studied  here  specimens  of  every 
race  and  nation  of  the  East:  Arabs 
from  Muscat,  Persians  from  the  Gulf, 
Afghans  from  the  northern  frontier, 
black,  shaggy  Beluchis,  negroes  of 
Zanzibar,  islanders  from  the  Maldives 
and  Laccadives,  Malagashes,  Malays, 
and  Chinese  throng  and  jostle  with 
Partis  in  their  sloping  hats,  with 
Jews,  Lascars,  fishermen,  Rajpoots, 
Fakirs,  Europeans,  Sepoys  and  Sahibs,' 

Digitized  byLjOOvlC 


18 


fiOHBAT  AND  BNVIROKd 


tndir 


Iq  the  Bliendi  Bazaar  are  the  Arab 
Stables,  weU  worth  a  visit  in  the  early 
morning,  not  only  for  the  sake  of  seeing 
some  of  the  finest  horses  in  the  East, 
but  to  see  the  Arabs  themselves  who 
bring  them  to  Bombay  for  sale. 

For  the  most  part  the  Hindu  Temples 
in  Bombay  are  quite  modem ;  bat  at 
the  same  time  they  are  picturesque  and 
particularly  striking  to  a  stranger  who 
nas  not  been  in  Bombay  before.  Of 
these  the  most  important  is 

The  temple  of  Walkeshwar  "  Sand 
Lord,"  on  tne  W.  side  of  Malabar  Hill, 
close  to  Malabar  Point.  Throngs  of 
Hindus  will  be  met  coming  from  it, 
their  foreheads  newly  coloured  with 
the  sectarial  mark.  The  legend  says 
that  Rama,  on  his  way  from  Ayodhya 
(Oudh)  to  Lanka  (Ceylon),  to  recover 
his  bride  Sita,  carried  off  by  Havana, 
halted  here  for  the  night  Lakshman 
provided  his  brother  £iima  with  a  new 
Lingam  direct  from  Benares  every 
night.  This  night  he  failed  to  arrive 
at  the  expected  time,   and  the   im- 

EEitient  Rama  made  for  himself  a 
ingam  of  the  sand  at  the  spot  When 
the  one  from  Benares  arrived  it  was 
set  up  in  the  temple,  while  the  one 
which  Rama  had  made,  in  after  ages, . 
on  the  arrival  of  the  Portuguese,  sprang 
into  the  sea  from  horror  of  the  bar- 
barians. There  is  a  small  but  veiy 
Sicturesque  tank  here,  adorned  with 
ights  of  steps,  and  surrounded  by 
Brahmans'  houses  and  shrines.  This 
spot  well  deserves  a  visit ;  a  traveller 
will  nowhere  in  India  see  a  more  Epical 
specimen  of  the  better  class  of  Hindu 
town  architecture.  It,  too,  is  not  with- 
out its  legend.  Rama  thirsted,  and 
there  being  no  water  here,  he  shot  an 
arrow  into  the  earth,  and  forthwith 
appeared  the  tank,  hence  called  Vana- 
tirtha,  «  Arrow-Tank." 

A  Temple  of  less  importance  is  the 
Dwarkaaath'B  Temple,  close  to  the 
Esplanade,  on  the  right-hand  side  of 
the  road  that  leads  to  Parell,  and  a  little 
N.  of  the  Framji  Eausji  Institute, 
which  is  on  the  opposite  side* of  the 
road. 

Entering  bv  a  side  door  on  the  N., 
the  visitor  finds  himself  in  a  room 
40  ft  sq.  with  a  silver  door  at  the  end 


7  ft.  high,  which  hides  from  view  thc^ 
principal  idol.  There  are  many  iinages- 
and  paintings  of  Krishna  and  Radha, 
his  favourite  mistress. 

There  is  a  group  of  MahaZuksfmee 
Temples  at  Breach  Candy,  and  others 
in  the  native  quarter  around  the  tai^s 
of  Mombadevi  and  Oowalia. 

Shooting. — Tigers  and  panthers  ire 
rather  numerous  in  the  Konkan,  and 
may  be  found  occasionally  in  Salsette. 
At  the  hill -fort  of  Tungarh,  about 
20  m.  from  Bombay,  tigers  are  occasion- 
ally to  be  found,  but  it  is  difficult  to  get 
accommodation  there,  as  there  are  omy 
one  or  two  huts,  and  horses  picketed 
outside  are  likely  to  be  killed  during 
the  night.  Newcomers  should  en- 
deavour to  go  with  some  experienced 
sportsman,  by  whom  all  the  arrange- 
ments should  be  made.  Snipe  are 
numerous  on  the  E.  side  of  Bombay 
Harbour  in  Panwell  Creek  and  other 
places.  At  the  Yehar  Lake  and  Tanna 
and  close  to  Narel  wild  duck,  snipe, 
hares,  and  partridges  are  to  be  found. 
At  places  in  Guzerat  some  of  the  finest 

Juail,    snipe,   and   duck -shooting  in 
ndia  is  to  be  obtained. 

Bailwaye,  Tra/nvwayst  and  Steatners, 
— The  terminal  stations  of  the  tnm- 
ways  and  of  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  and 
Central  India  Railway  are  at  Colaha, 
i  m.  S.  of  Watson's  Hotel,  but  there 
is  a  station  much  closer,  and  nearly  due 
W.  of  Watson's  Hotel,  called  Church- 
gate  Station,  whence  passengers  can  start 
for  any  places  reached  by  the  B.  B.  and 
C.  I.  Ime.  Those  who  are  living  in  the 
northern  suburbs  will  go  of  course 
from  the  Bycidla  Station,  or  from  the 
Gfrant  Road  Station,  according  to  their 
destination. 


Sights  in  thb  Vicinity  of  Bombay. 

1.  Blephanta.  6.  Jogeshwmr  GkTe. 

2.  Venar  Lake.  7.  Matheran. 

3.  Montpezir  Caves.  8.  The  Tknaa  Wttef 

4.  C^ve   Temples  of  Supply. 
Kanhari.  9.  Karli. 


5.  Saparn. 


10.  Oeraoppa  FUli. 


(1)  Elephanta  is  a  small  island  aboia 
6  m.  from  the  Fort  of  Bombay.  Fol 
visiting  this  remarkable  place 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


r.  m 

steaa 


y  Google 


Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


IXOUBfllON  TO  ELSPHANTA 


19 


latmches^  can  be  hired  at  Apollo  Bandar, 
and  make  the  passage  in  about  1  or  1^ 
ks.,  or  a  bandar-boat  may  be  hired  at 
torn  3  to  5  rs.  In  this  case  the  length 
of  the  passage  will  depend  on  wind  and 
tide.  Or,  if  living  near  Mazagon,  the 
traveller  may  hire  a  boat  or  engage  a 
steam  launch  from  the  pier  there.  The 
boat  will  pass  close  to  Batcher's  Island, 
vhich  is  3  m.  nearly  due  E.  from  Maza- 
gon  Dock.  Persons  coming  from  sea 
vith  infectious  diseases,  such  as  small- 
pox, are  placed  in  quarantine  at  this 
islaid.  The  view  in  this  part  of  the 
hailour  ia  beautiful.  To  the  N.  is  the 
iiiB  known  as  the  Neafs  Tongue,  on 
TrBibav  island,  which  is  1000  ft  above 
serieyel.    The  ruins  of  an  old  Portu- 

g«e  chapel  at  Trubah  in  Trombay  are 

at  a  hei^t  of  324  ft.  The  highest 
mt  of  Elephanta  is  668  ft.  There 
K  another  hill  400  ft.  high  to  the  left 
rfthe  Caves  as  you  approach  theuL 

Elephanta  is  called  by  the  natives 
Oharapuri  ("the  town  of  the  rock," 
or  "of  purification,"  according  to  Dr. 
Wilaon) — according  to  Dr.  J.  Stevenson, 
Oarapurij  **the  town  of  excavations." 
The  caves  are  called  Lenen  (Lena)  by 
the  natives,  a  word  used  throughout 
India  and  Ceylon  for  these  excavations, 
»ost  probably  on  account  of  the  first  of 
fiiem  being  intended  for  hermitages  of 
Jaddhist  ascetics.  The  island  is  covered 
*ith  low  corinda  bushes  and  Tal  palms. 
I  consists  of  two  long  hills,  with  a 
terrow  valley  between  them.  About 
SO  yards  to  the  right  of  the  old  landing- 
)iace,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  island  on  the 
liae  of  one  of  the  hills,  and  not  far  from 
fee  ruins  of  a  Portuguese  building,  was 
imass  of  rock,  out  into  the  shape  of  an 
ilephant,  from  which  the  place  derives 
^Eoiopean  name.  In  September  1814 
;  te  head  and  neck  dropped  off,  and  in 
:  ^64  the  then  shapeless  mass  was  re- 
moved to  Bombay,  and  may  now  be 
*en  in  the  Victoria  Gardens. 

The  modem  landing-place  N.W.  of 
4e  ishmd  is  not  a  very  convenient  one. 
1 1  consists  of  a  rather  slippery  pier  of 
«ncrete  blocks.    The  caves  are  distant 

'Consult  Messrs.  T.  Ck)ok  &  Son.  Their 
^m  laonch  makes  the  excursion  several 
Vnes  a  week,  and  makes  other  excursions  in 
tleharboor. 


about  i  m.,  and  are  approached  by  easy 
steps,  constructed  in  1853  by  a  native 
merchant  at  a  cost  of  12,000  rs. 
There  is  a  bungalow  at  the  entrance, 
where  a  fee  of  4  annas  is  paid. 

The  time  when  these  caves  were  ex- 
cavated can  only  yet  be  jessed  at,  but 
it  is  generally  supposea  that  it  must 
have  been  some  tmie  between  the  9th 
and  11th  cents.  a.d.  The  disintegra- 
tion of  the  rock,  since  the  caves  were 
first  described  by  Niebuhr,  and  even 
during  the  last  30  years,  has  been  very 
considerable. 

The  entrance  into  the  temple  is  be- 
tween two  massive  pillars,  formmg  three 
openings,  hewn  out  of  trap  rock,  over- 
hung by  brushwood  and  wild  shrubs. 
The  whole  excavation  consists  of  three 
principal  parts :  the  great  temple  itself, 
which  is  m  the  centre,  open  on  three 
sides,  and  two  smaller  chapels,  standing 
back  one  on  each  side  of  the  great 
temple,  but  not  perceived  on  approach- 
ing it.  They  are  now  reachea  by  two 
narrow  miniature  passes  in  the  hill, 
one  on  each  side  of  the  grand  entrance, 
at  short  distances  from  it.  The  side 
fronts  are  exactly  like  the  principal 
one :  all  beina;  hollowed  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  and  each  fa9ade  supported  by  two 
hu^e  pillars  with  two  pilasters,  one  on 
each  side.  The  two  wings  of  the  temple 
have  no  covered  passage  to  coimect 
them  with  it. 

The  left  side  of  the  creat  cave  is  133 
ft.  in  length,  while  me  right  side  is 
only  128  ft.  4  in.,  measuring  from  the 
chief  entrance  to  the  fai^hest  end. 
Irregularities  of  this  kind  are  to  be 
found  in  every  other  part,  although  the 
general  appearance  is  that  of  perfect 
regularity.  The  breadth  is  fully  130 
ft.  from  the  eastern  to  the  western 
entrance.  It  rests  on  26  pillars  (8  of 
them  now  broken)  and  16  pilasters; 
neither  the  floor  nor  the  roof  being  in 
one  plane,  it  varies  in  height  from  17i 
to  16  ft.  The  plan  is  regular,  there 
being  seven  pillars  and  a  pilaster  in  a 
line  from  the  N.  entrance  to  the  S.  ex- 
treme of  the  temple,  and  six  together 
with  the  shrine  from  the  E.  to  the  W. 
entrances.  The  only  deviation  from 
this  regularity  in  the  chief  temple  is  the 
small  square  excavation  that  is  seen  to 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


20 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


the  rt.  on  going  up  the  temple ;  it 
oooupies  the  place  of  four  pillars  and 
of  the  intermediate  space  enclosed  be- 
tween them.  This  is  the  LiTigam  Shrine. 
It  is  19^  ft.  square,  with  four  doors 
facing  different  ways.  Around  this 
shrine  on  the  outside  are  two  large 
figures  at  each  entrance,  representing 
doorkeepers,  who  lean  on  demon-dwarfs. 
The  Lingam  is  a  cylindrical  stone  2  ft. 
10  in.  in  diameter,  the  emblem  of  Shiva 
and  of  reproduction,  and  is  worshipped 
on  great  occasions  by  crowds  of  devotees. 
At  the  back  of  the  cave  there  are  two 
small  excavations  facing  each  other,  the 
one  on  the  right,  the  other  on  the  left ; 
their  use  is  not  well  ascertained  ;  they 
were  probably  employed  for  keeping 
the  temple  utensils  and  offerings.  The 
pillars,  which  all  appear  to  run  in 
straight  lines  parallel  to  each  other, 
and  at  equal  distances,  are  crossed  by 
other  ranges  running  at  right  angles ; 
they  are  strong  and  massive,  of  an 
order  remarkably  well  adapted  to  their 
situation  and  the  purpose  which  they 
serve.  ' 

The  Great  Cave  at  Elephanta  is  what 
the  Hindus  call  a  Shiva  Lingam  Temple, 
a  class  of  sacred  buildings  very  common 
in  India.  The  natives  maintain  that 
this  cave  and  all  other  excavations  are 
the  works  of  the  sons  of  Pandu,  who 
constructed  them  while  wandering  about 
in  banishment  They  consider  that 
these  excavations  are  works  far  too 
mighty  for  mortals  to  have  constructed. 
The  Great  Cave  is  visited  by  crowds  of 
Hindus,  on  the  great  festival  of  Shiva 
in  the  latter  half  of  Febniary. 

Three-faced  Bust,  or  Trimurti. — ^The 
chief  of  the  mural  figures  is  the  immense 
three-faced  bust,  19  ft.  in  height,  at 
the  far  end  of  the  Great  Cave,  facing 
the  N.  entrance.  It  is  the  representa- 
tion of  Shiva,  who  is  the  leading  char- 
acter in  all  the  groups  of  the  cave.  The 
front  face  is  Shiva  in  the  character  of 
Brahma,  the  creator;  the  E.  face  (spec- 
tator's 1.)  is  Shiva  in  the  character  of 
Rudra,  the  destroyer ;  and  the  W.  face 
(spectator's  rt.)  is  considered  to  be 
Shiva  in  the  character  of  Vishnu,  the 

Ereserver,  holding  a  lotus  flower  in  his 
and. 
The  Arddhanariahwar,  or  half-male 


haif-female  Divinity  in  the  first  oom- 
partment  to  the  £.  of  the  central  figure 
(spectator's  1.)  represents  Shiva,  16  ft. 
9  m.  high,  in  his  character  of  Arddha- 
nanshwar.  The  right  half  of  the  hgore 
is  intended  to  be  that  of  a  male,  nd 
the  left  that  of  a  female,  and  thus  to 
represent  Shiva  as  uniting  the  tro 
sexes  in  his  one  person.  The  same 
tradition  is  represented  in  a  carving  at 
the  caves  at  Badami.  Such  a  n\aii- 
festation  of  Shiva  is  described  in  the 
Puranas.  The  bull  on  which  two  of 
the  hands  of  the  figure  lean,  and  vi 
which  he  is  suppos^  to  ride,  is  called 
Nandi,  a  constant  attendant  on  Shift. 
Brahma,  on  his  lotus  throne,  supported 
by  five  swans,  and  with  his  four  fetces, 
is  exhibited  on  the  right  of  the  figure. 
He  has  a  portion  of  all  these  faces 
visible.  On  the  left,  Vishnu  is  seen 
riding  on  what  is  now  a  headless  Gamda, 
a  fabulous  creature,  half  man  half  eagle. 
Above  and  in  the  background  are  found 
a  number  of  inferior  gods  and  sa^  of 
the  Hindus.  India,  iXrd  of  the  Firma- 
ment, appears  mounted  on  an  elephant. 

In  the  compartment  to  the  W.  of  the 
Trimurti  are  two  gigantic  figures  of 
Shiva  and  ParbaU,  the  former  16  ft. 
high,  the  latter  12  ft.  4  in.  Shiva  haa 
a  high  cap,  on  which  the  crescent  and 
other  symbols  are  sculptured,  and  from 
the  top  of  it  rises  a  cup  or  shell  on  which 
is  a  three-headed  figure  representing  the 
Ganga  proper,  the  Yamuna  and  Sarasi 
wati,  wnich  three  streams  are  fabled  tb 
unite  at  Prayag,  or  Allahabad,  and  form 
the  Ganges.  According  to  a  well-knowi^ 
Hindu  legend,  the  Ganges  flowed  from 
the  head  of  Shiva.  The  cod  is  standing 
and  has  four  arms,  of  which  the  outei 
left  rests  on  a  dwarf,  who  seems  to  bend 
under  the  weight.  In  the  dwarfs  righl 
hand  is  a  cobra,  in  his  left  a  ehimrii 
from  his  neck  hangs  a  necklace,  thj 
ornament  of  which  is  a  tortoise.  Oo 
Shiva's  right  are  several  attendant^ 
and  above  them  Brahma,  sculpturet 
much  as  in  the  compartment  on  tb 
right  of  the  TWrnwrii.  Between  Brahmi 
and  Shiva  is  Indra  on  his  elephail 
Airavata,  which  appears  to  be  kneelin| 

Marriaae  of  Shiva  and  Parbati  is 
sculptured  group  (greatly  damaged)  I 
the  end  of  the  W.  aisle.     The  podtio 

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EXCURSION  TO  ELEPHANTA 


2] 


rf  Parbati  on  the  right  of  Shiva  shows 
that  she  is  his  bride ;  for  to  stand  on 
the  right  of  her  husband,  and  to  eat 
rith  him,  are  privileges  vouchsafed  to 
1  Hindu  wife  only  on  her  wedding-day. 
h  the  comer,  at  the  right  of  Parbati. 
B  Brahma,  known  by  his  four  faces, 
fitting  and  reading,  as  the  priest  of 
ke  ^ds,  the  sacred  texts  suited  to 
ftie  marriage  ceremony.  Above,  on 
Shiw's  left,  is  Vishnu.  Among  the  at- 
fe'ndants  on  the  right  of  Parbati  is  one 
bearing  a  water-pot  for  the  ceremony. 
Thisis  probably  Chandra  the  moon-god. 
BeMid  the  bashful  goddess  is  a  male 
tiguie,  probably  her  father  Himalaya, 
who  is  pushing  her  forward. 

Mrth  of  Skcmda  the  War-god^  is  a 
sculptured  group  at  the  E.  end  of  the 
y.  aisle.  Shiva  and  Parbati  are  seated 
tether,  with  groups  of  male  and 
female  inferior  divinities  showering 
down  flowers  from  above,  the  rock 
being  cut  into  various  shapes  to  repre- 
sent the  clouds  of  Kailas,  Shiva's 
heaven.  Behind  Shiva  and  Parbati  is 
a  female  figure  carrying  a  child  on  her 
Mp,  from  which  it  has  been  supposed 
that  the  sculpture  represents  the  birth 
i  Skanda,  the  war-god,  who  figures  so 
prominently  in  Kaudasa's  fine  poem, 
4e  Kv/mara  Smribhava  (spiritedly  trans- 
lated by  Griffiths).  Dr.  Stevenson 
liought  Ganesha  or  Ganpati,  the 
ifephant-headed  god  of  wisdom  was 
perhaps  intended  here. 
Savana  attemjAing  to  remove  Kailas. 
-The  visitor  must  now  face  completely 
Rumd,  and  look  to  the  N.  instead  of 
4e  S.,  and,  advancing  a  few  paces,  he 
iHl  come  in  front  of  the  sixth  compart- 
isent,  which  is  to  the  right  of  the  eastern 
•trance.  Here  Havana,  the  demon 
^of  Lanka,  or  Ceylon,  is  attempting 
to  remove  Kailas,  the  heavenly  hill  of 
Siiva,  to  his  own  kingdom,  in  order 
tkt  he  may  have  his  tutelary  deity 
>lvays  with  him,  for  Ravana  was 
^'er  a  worshipper  of  Shiva.  Havana 
Itts  10  heads  and  20  arms,  and  is  with 
|d8  back  to  the  spectator.  Shiva  is  seen 
in  Kailas,  with  Parbati  on  his  right, 
and  votaries  and  Rishis  in  the  back- 
ground. The  legend  runs  that  Havana 
shook  Kailas  so  much  that  Parbati  was 
alarmed,  whereupon  Shiva  pressed  down 


the  hill  with  one  of  his  toes  on  the  head 
of  Havana,  who  remained  immovable 
for  10,000  years. 

The  figure  of  Bhairava, — The  visitor 
must  now  cross  over  to  the  opposite  side, 
passing  the  Lingam  shrine,  in  order  to 
arrive  at  the  correspondingcompartment 
on  the  W.  to  that  just  described  on  the 
E.  This  was  formerly  supposed  to  re- 
present fhe  sacrifice  of  Daksha,  and  is 
twice  depicted  at  Elora,  and  more  than 
once  at  the  Amboli  caves  in  Salsette. 
Daksha,  a  son  of  Brahma,  born  from 
the  thumb  of  his  right  hand  for  the 

Surpose  of  peopling  the  world,  had  60 
aughters,  of  wnom  27  are  the  nymphs 
of  the  lunar  asterisms.  One  of  them, 
named  Sati  or  Durga,  married  Shiva, 
and  17  were  married  to  Kashyapa,  and 
were  the  mothers  of  all  created  beings. 
Daksha  began  a  sacrifice  according  to 
the  ancient  Vaidik  ritual,  and  as  the 
gods  of  the  Vedas  alone  were  invited, 
Shiva  and  his  wife  were  not  asked  to 
attend.  Sati  went,  nevertheless,  un- 
bidden, and  being  badly  received,  threw 
herself  into  the  tire,  whereupon  Shiva 
made  his  appearance  in  his  most  terrific 
form  as  Vira  Bhadra^  which  manifesta- 
tion of  the  god  here  forms  the  principal 
figure  of  the  group.  He  dispersed  the 
gods  and  other  attendants  of  the  sacri- 
fice, and  seizing  Daksha  with  one  hand, 
decapitated  him  with  another,  while  in 
a  third  he  held  a  cup,  into  which  spouted 
the  blood.  The  head  was  hacked  to 
pieces;  but  when  Shiva's  wrath  was 
appeased,  he  put  the  head  of  a  ram  on 
Daksha's  body,  thus  keeping  him  ever 
in  mind  of  the  power  of  his  decapi- 
tator.  The  sculpture  may  or  may  not 
have  a  special  reference  to  Daksha. 
It  is  doubtless  intended  to  repre- 
sent Shiva  in  one  of  his  usual  dreaaful 
forms,  viz.,  that  of  Bhairava,  Mahakal, 
or  Kapalabhrit. 

Natesha  or  Tandava. — Shiva  is  said 
to  perform  a  frantic  dance  at  eventide, 
attended  by  his  gatva  or  retinue  of 
demons,  stamping  with  mad  energy, 
when  the  dust  he  raises  is  put  on  their 
heads  by  the  other  gods.  Above  is  a 
very  perfect  Ganesh  with  elephant  head. 
Natesha  has  eight  arms,  which  are  all 
broken  but  one. 
Shiva  as  am,  Ascetic^he  last  group,  is 

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BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


India 


to  the  left  of  the  grand  entrance.  Here 
Shiva  appears  as  a  Yogi,  and  the  figure 
so  mucn  resembles  Buddha  that  the 
early  describers  of  the  cave,  before 
Erskine,  thought!  b  to  be  that  person- 
age. The  figure  has  the  remains  of  two 
arms,  which  appear  to  have  rested  in 
his  lap.  It  is  seated  on  a  lotus,  the 
stalk  of  which  is  supported  by  two 
figures  below. 

The  W,  wing,  opposite  the  Lingam 
chapel  firat  described,  and  across  a  court 
to  the  W.,  is  a  smaller  excavation  in 
the  face  of  the  hill  in  which  Ganesh  is 
seated  at  the  8.  extremity  with  a  com 
pany  of  Shiva's  attendants.  The  portico 
of  the  shrine  is  ornamented  with  a  good 
deal  of  sculpture. 

The  E.  wing  is  approached  by  a  few 
steps,  flanked  by  sculptured  lions,  lead- 
ing up  to  a  small  Lingam  chapel,  in 
which  are  no  figures. 

Supplementary  Eoccavations. — Round 
the  hill,  a  little  to  the  S.,  are  two  other 
excavations  fronting  the  E.  These  are 
also  Lingam  shrines,  with  JDwarpals 
sculptured  outside.  On  a  hill  opposite 
to  the  Great  Gave  is  a  small  cave,  and 
an  excavation  has  been  commenced  but 
without  much  progress  having  been 
made.  Since  this  some  steps  have  been 
unearthed  supposed  by  some  to  be  the 
original  ones  leading  to  the  sea. 

Dr.  Burgess's  account  of  the  caves, 
which  is  the  best,  was  published  in 
Bombay,  1871. 

(2)1  Vehar  Lake  (drive  15  m.)  from 
Bombay,  or  better  by  G.  L  P.  Rly. 
to  Bhandup,  17  m.  Arrange  with  the 
station-master  at  Bhandup  oeforehand 
to  have  a  pony  ready,  and  canter  to 
the  lake  in  half  an  nour,  turning  to 
the  rt.  at  a  signpost,  marked  3  m.  to 
Pawe,  a  village  belonging  to  a  Parsi, 
amidst  16,000  mango  trees.  From  the 
gateway  or  Darwazah  of  Pawe  it  is  2 
m.  to  the  lake  ;  the  jungle  is  very  thick 
part  of  the  way.  The  lake  covers  1400 
acres,  and  measures  2  x  1 J  m. ;  it  was 
made  by  Mr.  Conybeare,  C.E.,  by 
damming  up  the  Garpur  river.  It 
cost  £373,650  with  the  connectmg 
pipes,  and  can  supply  8,000,000  gal- 
Ions  of  water  a  day.    The  embankment 

1  Bxcuwiona  2,  8,  4  may  aU  be  done  in  one 
day. 


is  30  ft.  broad  and  30  ft.  above  the 
water.  The  water  is  75  ft  deep,  of 
which  50  ft.  are  available  for  the 
supply  of  Bombay  and  25  ft  are  kept 
for  settling.  Fish  are  numerous,  ptr- 
ticularly  singara  or  *'  cat-fish."  Tnere 
are  also  many  conger-eels,  which  grow 
8  or  9  ft.  long.  There  are  many  ted 
on  the  lake,  but  it  is  very  difficult  to 
get  within  shot,  except  in  the  very 
early  morning.  Tigers  are  scarce  now, 
but  many  have  been  killed  there.  One^ 
shot  by  Mr.  Robertson,  O.S.,  had  killed 
16  persons. 

The  Tulsi  Lake,  which  lies  2  m.  to 
the  N.,  was  formed  in  1872,  at  a  cost 
of  £40,000,  and  water  is  carried  thence 
to  the  top  of  Malabar  Hill.  2  m.  N. 
are  th^  Kanheri  Caves. 

(3)  Montpesdr  Caves  (Mandapesh- 
war),—h,  B.  and  C.  I.  Railway  to  Bor- 
ivll  Station,  22J  m.,  thence  nde  1  m. 
Write  beforehand  to  the  station-master 
for  a  pony  and  coolie  to  carry  tifiln- 
basket.  Good  clean  waiting-room  at 
Borivli.  Leaving  the  station,  proceed 
N.,  turning  at  about  200  yds.  to  the  1. 
At  the  caves  is  a  ruined  Portuguese 
chm'ch,  with  a  cross  close  by.  IU)and 
the  N.E.  corner  of  the  church  are 
three  caves  hewn  out  of  the  rock,  which, 
judging  from  the  pillars,  may  be  of  the 
9th  century.  The  cave  on  the  E.  is 
57  ft  8  in.  X  18i  ft.  There  is  no  carv- 
ing inside,  but  there  are  two  pillars  in 
the  fa9ade  shaped  somewhat  like  the 
Ionic.  Adjoining  this  cave  to  the  W. 
is  a  stone  basin  for  water,  of  which 
there  is  a  good  supply,  said  never  to 
fail,  and  this  may  be  one  reason  why 
the  Portuguese  built  here.  The  next 
cave  is  27  ft.  3  in.  x  14  ft  9  in.  In 
the  W.  wall  is  a  group  of  figures  very 
much  mutilated.  The  principal  fig|ui-e 
has  four  arms,  and  is  said  to  be  Bhim,  ^ 
but  is  probably  Shiva,  with  25  Ganas. 
In  the  comer  of  the  outside  wall  is 
half  a  door  of  the  church,  of  teak,  witlx 
two  saints  carved  on  it  The  third  or 
W.  cave  is  locked,  but  the  key  can  be 
obtained  from  the  priest  |  m.  oflT.  I 
was  probably  a  vihara  cave  in  whic] 
10  or  12  hermits  lived,  but  was  converted 
into  a  chapel  in  1555  A.D.  In  the  I^ 
part  of  the  E.  wall,  upside  down,  is  th 
stone    originally^  over  j  the    entrano 

Digitized  byVjOOQlC 


CAVE  TEMPLES  OF   KANHARI 


23 


door,  inscribed  with  the  date  1555. 
it  the  N.W.  are  pillared  partitions 
kdms  to  cells,  and  on  the  W .  side  are 
tro  pilasters  and  four  pillars  about  12 
t  high,  with  tapering  3haftsand  angular 
espitus.  To  tne  S.,  on  an  eminence, 
is  a  round  tower  (40  ft.  high),  which 
the  priest  calls  a  Calyarium.  The 
rtaiioase  is  on  the  outside,  and  in 
placflB  there  are  apparently  embrasures 
for  ffons.  The  people  about  say  it  was 
asedas  a  tower  of  defence.  There  is  a 
good  view  from  the  top  over  the  plain  ; 
mdibout  4  m.  off  to  the  E.  is  the  hill 
in  wkich  are  the 


{ij  Cave  Temples  of  Kanliari  ^  (Km- 
?i«fy).— These  caves  are  all  excavated  in 
the  face  of  a  single  hill  in  the  centre 
ofihe  island  of  Salsette,  and  are  about 
5  m.  by  a  bridle  path  from  Borivli 
Station  on  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Railway, 
2  m.  N.  of  the  dam  of  the  Tulsi  lake, 
and  6  m.  from  the  D.B.  at  Tanna  (see 
Ete.  1).  There  are  109  of  these  caves  ; 
bat  though  more  numerous,  they  are 
pronoimced  by  Mr.  Fergusson^  to  be 
mich  less  interesting  ttian  those  at 
Ajanta,  Elora,  or  Karli.  The  same 
nthority  considers  that  the  greater 
»rt  of  them  in  India,  was  executed 
Va  colony  of  Buddhists,  "who  may 
uve  taken  refuge  here  after  being  ex- 
l^led  from  the  continent,  and  who 
ined  to  reproduce  the  lost  Karli  in 
fteir  insidar  retreat."  The  caves  date 
fern  the  end  of  the  2nd  century  a.d. 
1» about  the  middle  of  the  9th,  or  pos- 
Uj  a  little  later.  The  great  Chaitya 
i  one  of  the  earliest  here ;  those  on 
leh  side  may  be  2  centuries  later :  the 
kest  is  prooably  the  unfinished  one, 
i^ch  is  the  fust  the  traveller  ap- 
Iroaches  by  the  usual  route,  and  which 
fctes  about  the  9th  or  10th  century 
tD.,  or  is  even  still  more  recent.  How- 
ler this  may  be,  it  is  at  least  certain, 
lat,  to  use  Heber's  words,  *'the  beau- 
ftil  situation    of   these  caves,   their 

'  The  best  and  most  complete  information 
{the  sabject  of  these  caves  is  to  be  found  in 
^  Ttmmes  and  BuddhUt  Caves,  by  James 
^Stm,  lli.D.,  D.C.L. 

^Boek^wt  Temples  of  India,  p.  34. 


elaborate  carving,  and  their  marked 
connection  with  Buddha  and  his  re- 
ligion, render  them  every  way  remark- 
able." i 

The  path  to  them  is  narrow,  and 
winds  along  the  sides  of  rocks,  but 
it  is  quite  possible  to  proceed  along 
it  in  palkis  or  on  horseback.  Most 
of  the  surrounding  hills  are  covered 
with  jungle,  but  the  one  in  which 
are  the  caves  is  nearly  bare,  its 
summit  being  formed  by  one  large 
rounded  mass  of  compact  rock,  under 
which  a  softer  stratum  has  been  de- 
nuded by  the  rains,  forming  natural 
caves,  which,  slightly  improved  by 
art,  were  appropnatea  as  cells.  The 
road  which  ascends  the  hill  leads  to 
a  platform  in  front  of  the  great  arched 
cave,  where  are  several  mounds  of 
masonry.  The  largest  of  them  was 
opened  by  Dr.  Bird,  and  some  relics 
and  inscriptions  on  copper  were  found. 
This  is  the  first  stage  of  ascent  to 
the  caves,  which  consist  of  six  ranges, 
on  the  ledges  of  the  mountain,  con- 
nected with  each  other  by  footsteps 
cut  in  the  rock.  The  ascent  is  gradual 
until  within  a  few  hundred  yards 
of  the  southernmost,  when  the  path 
becomes  steep  and  rugged,  and  so 
closely  shaded  with  shrubs  and  lofty 
trees  as  to  conceal  every  appearance 
of  the  caves  until  the  traveller  is 
actually  in  front  of  them.  In  the 
first  which  comes  in  view  two  massive 
columns,  of  the  same  order  as  those 
at  Elephanta,  support  a  plain  solid 
entablature,  above  which  an  oblong 
square  is  hollowed  out.  Within  are 
two  anterooms,  and  beyond,  an  un- 
finished chamber,  26  ft.  deep.  The 
front  screen  has  three  doors,  and  three 
windows  over  them,  and  the  partition 
between  the  second  and  the  inner 
chamber  has  likewise  three  doors,  and 
over  the  centre  one  a  large  open  arch, 
rising  nearly  to  the  roof.  Salt  thinks 
that  the  workmen  began  this  cave 
from  the  top,  and  worked  downwards. 
There  are  no  figures  or  carvings  here, 

1  A  good  account  of  the  Kanhari  caves  is 
given  by  Salt,  p.  47,  vol.  L,  TnmsacUons  qf 
the  Liierary  Society  of  Bombay,  which  is  here 
followed,  corrected  by  Dr.  Burgess's  account 
in  Cave  Temples  oflndia^ 


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24 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


Ivdi(L 


and  the  details  are  of  little  interest. 
Fergasson  supposes  it  to  be  the  latest 
excavation  in  the  hill,  and  to  date  in 
the  9th  or  10th  century  a.d.,  or  even 
later. 

From  this  a  vihara,  consisting  of  a 
long  irregular  verandah  with  cells  at 
he  back  extends  in  a  direction  from 
S.W.  to  N.E.  to  the  Great  Cave,  from 
which  it  is  divided  by  a  partition, 
so  thin  that  it  has  been  broken  through 
by  some  accident.  It  contains,  and 
this  is  the  chief  point  of  interest,  two 
sanctuaries,  in  which  are  dagobas,  or 
solid  masses  of  stone  or  earth,  in  the 
form  of  a  cupola.  The  most  southern 
of  these  stands  in  a  recess,  the  three  sides 
of  which  are  divided  into  panels  on 
which  are  carved  one,  two,  or  more 
figures  of  Buddha  and  of  Bodhisatwas  in 
various  attitudes.  Behind  the  northern 
dagoba  Buddha  is  represented  on  a 
lion -throne,  which  rests  on  a  lotus, 
whose  stalk  is  supported  by  two  boys 
with  hoods  like  that  of  the  cobra. 
From  the  main  stem  spring  two  others, 
on  which  are  two  youths  with  the  fans 
called  chaurif  and  one  with  a  lotus-head 
in  his  hand.  Above  are  two  flyingfigures, 
and  two  of  priests  below,  and  a  group  is 
thus  formed,  the  fac- simile  of  which 
is  seen  at  Earli  and  Ajanta. 

The  Great  Chaitya  Cave  joins  this 
verandah  in  the  manner  just  men- 
tioned ;  it  resembles  the  great  cave  at 
Karli.  Figures  of  Buddha  23  ft  high 
occupy  both  extremities.  On  the  jamb 
of  the  entrance  to  the  verandah  is  an 
inscription  of  Gautamiputra  IL,  in 
the  4th  cent.  A.D.  In  front  of  the 
cave  itself  is  a  portal,  and  after  that  a 
vestibule.  Between  the  verandah  and 
the  Gh-ecU  Caoe  is  a  small  tank.  Five 
steps  lead  up  to  the  portal,  which  opens 
into  a  court,  where  are  two  lofty 
columns,  that  on  the  rt.  surmounted 
by  4  lions  couchant.  Its  pedestal  is 
cut  into  panels  and  supports  an  image 
of  Buddha,  whose  head  is  canopied  by 
five  heads  of  the  hooded  snake.  The 
left  column  has  three  dwarf  figures  on 
the  top,  which  once,  perhaps,  supported 
a  wheel.  The  whole  space  at  the  imher 
end  of  the  portico  is  occupied  by  the 
front  face  of  the  cave,  which  is  divided 
by  plain  columns  into  three  square 


portals  beneath  and  five  open  windows 
above,  beyond  which  is  the  vestibule. 
On  the  right  and  left  of  the  vestibok, 
in  recesses,  are  gigantic  statues  of 
Buddha,  23  ft.  high.  The  intenor 
temple  again  is  parted  from  the  veiti- 
bule  by  a  second  screen,  the  figures  of 
which,  like  all  the  carving  of  this  care, 
are  most  slovenly.  The  pillars  tkt 
surround  the  nave  are  of  the  sane 
order  as  those  at  Earli,  but  mudi 
inferior  in  execution.  Six  on  one  side 
and  11  on  the  other  have  capitals  omi- 
mented  with  figures  of  elephants  pour- 
ing water  from  jars  on  the  sacred  bo 
tree  or  on  dagobas,  and  boys  with 
snake  heads  are  also  introduced.  The 
nave  terminates  in  a  semicircle,  and 
at  this  end  is  a  dagoba. 

Mr.  Fergusson  is  of  opinion  that  this 
Great  Chaitya  Cave  was  excavated  after 
the  vihara,  and  that  the  three  dagobas 
existing  at  its  threshold  are  more 
ancient  than  the  cave  itself.  As  the 
spot  had  been  regarded  as  sacred  owing 
to  them,  some  devotee,  he  thinks,  deter- 
mined on  excavating  a  great  temple 
behind  and  between  them. 

The  Durbar  Cave. — Proceeding  a 
little  to  the  N.E.  from  the  cave  just 
described,  and  turning  to  the  rt. 
round  an  angle  of  the  rock,  there  is  a 
long  winding  ascent  by  steps  cut  in  the 
rock,  leading  to  many  smaller  caves  in 
a  ravine  through  which  a  strong  moun- 
tain torrent  pours  in  the  rainy  season. 
There  are  ranges  of  caves  at  different 
heights  on  both  sides  the  ravine,  com- 
municating by  steps  with  one  another, 
and  above  are  the  remains  of  a  dam 
erected  across  the  ravine,  by  which  a 
capacious  reservoir  was  once  formed. 
The  first  cave  on  the  rt.  hand  is  the 
so-called  Dwrhar  Cave^  or  "Cave  of 
Audience,"  the  finest  vihara  of  the 
series,  and  the  onlv  one  that  can  com- 
pete in  size  with  those  at  Ajanta.  It 
IS  96  ft.  6  in.  long,  and  42  ft  3  in. 
deep,  exclusive  of  the  cells.  Immedi- 
ately opposite  is  a  vast  excavation,  in 
which  are  a  few  fragments  ot  columns 
hanging  to  the  roof. 

Upper  Caves, — ^Ascending  still  higher 
from  the  platform  of  the  Great  Cave, 
the  traveller  comes  to  20  or  30  exca- 
vations, containing  nothing  of  note. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


8APARA. — J0GE8HWAR  CAVE 


25 


Above  these  again  is  another  series  of 
nhans,  of  which  several  are  very  inter- 
filing, their  walls  being  entirely  covered 
lith  figures,  finely  executed.  The 
nneral  design  is  Buddha  seated  on  a 
Iitus.  Bemains  of  plaster  and  painting 
ire  seen  here  and  there.  Mr.  Fergusson 
Huaiks  on  the  peculiar  head-djness  of 
tke  principal  figure  in  some  of  the 
|roi^,  wMch  he  had  not  noticed  else- 
where, and  observes  also  that  this 
figure  is  attended  by  two  female  figures, 
whereas  the  true  Buddha  is  sdways 
atteded  by  men.  This  is  Padmapani 
or  iralokiteshwar,  one  of  the  Bodhi- 
sat^  of  later  Buddhism,  attended  bv 
twoTaras.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  hill 
is  I  broad,  long,  and  level  terrace, 
cottnanding  a  very  fine  view  of  the 
snnounding  country.* 
Jhe  following  passage  from  Dr. 
Bird's  book  refers  to  a  discovery  of 
gK&t  importance  made  by  him : — 

"The  tope  at  Kanhari,  which  was 
opened  bjr  me  in  1839,  appeared  to  have 
wen  originally  12  or  16  ft.  in  height, 
and  of  a  pyramidal  shape ;  but  being 
ouch  dilapidated,  formed  exteriorly  a 
bp  of  stones  and  rubbish.  The  largest 
«f  several  being  selected  for  examina- 
tim,  was  penetrated  from  above  to  the 
fee,  which  was  built  of  cut  stone. 
ifter  digging  to  a  level  with  the  ground 
Bd  clearing  away  the  loose  materials, 
h  workmen  came  to  a  circular  stone, 
toow  in  the  centre  and  covered  at 
ie  top  by  a  piece  of  gypsum.  This 
stained  two  small  copper  urns,  in 
«e  of  which  were  a  ruoy,  a  pearl, 
•d  small  piece  of  gold  mixed  with 
tiles.  In  this  urn  there  was  also  a 
^  gold  box  containing  a  piece  of 
ith,  and  in  the  other,  ashes  and  a 
ifer  box  were  found.  Outside  the 
Amlar  stone  there  were  two  copper 
ites,  on  which  were  legible  inscrip- 
ms  in  the  Lot  or  cave  character. 
■e  smaller  of  the  plates  had  two  lines 
^writing  in  a  character  similar  to  that 
kt  with  at  the  entrance  of  the  A  janta 
•res;  the  larger  one  was  inscribed 
•Wi  letters  of  an  earlier  date.    The 

%e  inscriptions  at  Eanbari  have  been 
Elated  by  Dr.  Bahler  in  Dr.  James  Bur. 
PI'i  elaborate  work  already  referred  to  on 
h  Templet  amd  BuddhUt  Caves. 


last  part  of  the  fu-st-mentioned  inscrip- 
tion contained  the  Buddhist  creed,  as 
found  on  the  base  of  the  Buddha  image 
from  Tirhut,  and  on  the  stone  taken 
from  the  tope  of  Samath,  near  Benares.** 
The  most  cmious  fact  of  all  connected 
with  Kanhari  is  the  existence  there  in 
ancient  times  of  a  tooth  of  Buddha. 
The  cave  over  which  inscription  7 
of  those  mentioned  by  Stevenson  is 
engraved,  is  called  Sakadatya-lena,  the 
**  Buddha- tooth  Cave,"  probably  be- 
cause the  relic  was  there  temporarily 
deposited,  while  the  tope  in  which  it 
was  finally  lodged  was  being  prepared 
(see  p.  27). 

(5)  Snpara  is  a  village  W.  of  the  B.  B. 
and  C.  I.  Railway  3  m.  N.  W.  of  Bassein 
Road  station  on  that  line.  A  Buddhist 
tope  at  this  place  was  opened  which 
yielded  some  highly  interesting  relics, 
now  to  be  seen  in  the  great  room  of 
the  Ajsiatic  Society  in  the  Town  Hall, 
Bombay.  The  subject  is  worthy  of  the 
study  of  Orientalists  and  the  continued 
research  of  travellers. 

(6)  Jogeshwar  Cave.— 6  m.  S.  of 
Magathana  Caves,  and  2  m.  N.E.  of  the 
village  of  Jogeshwar  (about  1  m.  from 
Goregaon  sta.  on  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I. 
line).  Mr.  Burgess  attributes  these 
caves  to  the  latter  half  of  the  8th 
cent.  ;  next  to  those  at  Elora  they 
are  the  largest  in  India,  being  320  ft. 
long  by  200  ft.  broad.  The  W.  en- 
trance is  that  now  used ;  but  the 
decorations  on  the  E.  side  are  more 
carefully  executed,  and  the  prin- 
cipal entrance  was  probably  there. 
Over  the  sloping  path  that  leads  to 
the  W.  entrance  a  natural  arch  is 
formed  by  the  branches  of  a  banyan 
tree,  which,  shooting  across,  have 
taken  root  on  the  other  side,  and 
render  the  approach  singularly  pic- 
turesque. Eight  steps  lead  down  to 
a  small  anteroom,  in  which  the  figures 
are  greatly  decayed.  A  door  leads  into 
the  Great  Cave,  and  above  this  are  two 
figures  in  the  attitude  in  which  Rama 
and  Sita  are  often  represented.  The  tall 
figures  on  each  side  of  the  entrance  are 
exactly  like  the  dwarapalnaX  Elephanta. 
The  Great  Cave  is  120  ft.  square,  and 
18  ft.  from  the  door  are  20  pillars  of  the 
same  order  as  at  Elephanta,  ,forming 

oogle 


26 


BOMBAY  AND  ENVIRONS 


Ifdia 


an  inner  square.  Within  there  is  a 
chamber  24  ft.  sq.,  with  4  doors.  This 
is  a  temple  sacred  to  Mahadeva.  On 
the  waUs  are  the  vestiges  of  many 
figures.  Over  the  door  at  the  E.  en- 
trance is  the  curious  design  of  a  monster, 
the  rndkaraj  with  the  mouth  of  a  hippo- 

E'  uus,  trimk  of  an  elephant,  and  a 
)n's  tail,  which  appears  to  vomit 
a  sculptured  group,  representing 
some  scene  of  Shaiva  mythology.  From 
this  entrance  two  vestibules  lead  to 
three  doorways,  which  again  open  into 
the  Great  Cave.  Over  the  doorways  are 
some  curious  designs,  as,  e,g,  over  the 
centre  one  a  figure  resembling  Buddha, 
and  on  one  side  a  guardian  leaning  on 
a  dwarf,  who  grasps  in  his  hands  two 
enormous  snakes  that  are  closely  twined 
round  his  body. 

(7)  Matheran.— 54  m.  from  Bombay 
by  G.  I.  P.  Ely.  (see  Ete.  24). 

(8)  The  Tansa  Water  Supply  (D.B. 
G.  I.  P.  Kljr.  to  Atgaon  sta.,  59  m.)— 
The  increasing  population  of  Bombay 
led  the  mumcipality  to  construct  a 
still  larger  reservoir  on  the  Tansa 
River,  about  60  m.  N.E.  of  Bombay, 
which  was  formally  opened  by  H.E. 
the  Viceroy,  Lord  Lansdowne,  in  March 
1892.  The  Dam  which  encloses  the 
watershed  of  ihe  Tansa  Eiver,  com- 
pleted 1891,  is  the  largest  piece  of 
masonry  of  modem  times.  It  is  of  a 
uniform  height  of  118  ft.,  and  is  2  m. 
long,  108  ft.  thick  at  the  base,  and  24 
ft.  at  the  top,  where  a  flagged  road  runs 
along  it.  it  encloses  a  lake  8  sq.  m. 
in  area,  and  is  capable  of  supplying 
33,000,000  gallons  daily  (Engineer,  Mr. 
W.  Gierke;  Contractors,  Mr.  T.  0. 
Glover,  and  Messrs.  "Walsh,  Lovatt, 
and  Co.) 

(9)  Karli. — 85  m,  from  Bombay; 
caves  6  m.  from  rly.  sta.  (see  Ete.  24). 

(10)  Oersoppa  Falls  (D.B.)— From 
Bombay  by  steamer  to  Earwar.  From 
Karwar  to  Honawar  (D.B.)  by  "man- 
chul,"  52  m.,  15  rs.  ;  Honawar  to  Ger- 
soppa,  18  m.,  by  native  boat  up  a 
shallow  river  to  Eule  ;  Gersoppa  to  the 
Falls,  18  m.,  by  manchul,  4-8  rs. 
Write  beforehand  to  the  Mamlatdar  at 
Karwar  for  manchul,  and  to  the  Mam- 
latdar at  Honawar  to  make  arrange- 
ments.     "There   are  in   all  4  faUs, 


which  have  been  called  the  Great  Fall, 
the  Eoarer,  the  Eocket,  and  the  Dime 
Blanche.  In  the  first  of  these  the 
water,  in  considerable  volume,  mikes 
a  sheer  leap  down  of  829  ft.,  wd 
falls  into  a  pool  132  ft  dee^."  The 
others  are  all  in  line  with  this,  aonss 
the  river,  which  is  of  gi-eat  width.  Bie 
scenery  up  the  valley  and  the  ghat  to 
the  Falls  is  superb,  but  road  is  vry 
naalarious  until  Dec.  or  Jan.,  by  which 
time  the  Falls  have  run  out  a  great  d€iL 
Provisions  should  be  taken.  This  is  a 
long  and  somewhat  toilsome  journey ; 
for  full  particulars  see  Ete.  28.^ 


.ROUTE  1. 


Bombay  to  Calcutta  by  Nasik, 
Caves  of  Ajanta,  Jabalpur, 
Allahabad,  and  Benaees. 

BaU,  1400  m.  (G.  I.  P.  R  and  B.  I.  R):  mai^ 
train  46  hours. 

The  rule  for  breaking  journeys  oi^ 
Indian  railways  allows  tne  traveller  to 
spend  16  days  on  the  journey  from 
Bombay  to  Calcutta  with  one  through 
ticket.  Cost,  1st  class  91  rs.  11  as.,  2nG| 
class  45  rs.  14  as. ,  and  servants  16  rs.  8as^ 
Luggage  beyond  a  small  allowance  is 
extra.  The  85  m.  between  Bombay  and 
Igatpuri  are  by  far  the  most  picturesque 
on  the  whole  line  between  tne  western 
and  eastern  capitals,  but  unfortunately 
the  mail  train  each  way  passes  ovei 
the  best  part  of  this  in  tne  dark.  Th« 
traveller  can  arrange  to  see  it  by  day, 
light,  on  the  eastward  journey,  by  pre 
ceding  the  mail.  He  should  leave  b\ 
the  midday  train  and  reach  I^tpui" 
in  the  evening,  rejoining  the  mail  trail 
at  that  place  at  night,  and  on  th^ 
westward  journey  he  should  wait  al 
Igatpuri  for  a  slow  train. 

I  See  also  Dr.  George  Smith's  Ijife  qf  4oh\ 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTB  1.      TANNA — KALYAN 


27 


On  leaving  Bombay,  between  Sion 
ud  Coorla,  the  railway  passes  on  a 
auseway  from  the  island  of  Bombay 
tD  the  larger  island  of  Salsette. 
9  m.  Coorla  sta.  Close  by,  rt.,  are 
&e  once  famous  cotton-mills. 
21m.  Tanna  (Thana)  sta.,  D.B. 
An  early  Portuguese  settlement,  com- 
landmg  the  most  frequented  passage 
from  the  mainland  to  the  island  of  Sid- 
Ktte.  Marco  Polo  (1298  a.d.)  says, 
"Tana  is  a  great  kingdom  lying  towards 
flie  west.  .  .  .  There  is  much  traffic 
bewi  and  many  ships  and  merchants 
freqaent  the  place.  In  1320  four 
ChoBtian  companions  of  Friar  Odoricus 
hen  suffered  martyrdom.  Friar  Jor- 
dans  narrates  that  he  baptized  about 
90jersons  ten  days*  journey  from  Tanna, 
bcides  35  who  were  baptized  between 
Tiana  and  Supara. 

The  country  round  Tanna  was  highly 
ailtiyated,  and  was  studded  with 
mansions  of  the  Portuguese  when,  in 
1737,  it  was  wrested  from  them  by  the 
Harathas.  In  1774  the  Portuguese  sent 
a  formidable  armament  from  Europe 
fcr  the  avowed  object  of  recovering 
their  lost  possessions.  The  Government 
<f  Bombay  determined  to  anticipate 
feeir  enterprise,  and  to  seize  upon  the 
Uand  for  the  English.  A  force  was 
Kepared  under  General  Robert  Gordon, 
caTannawas  taken  after  a  siege  of  three 
ttys.  On  6th  March  1776  the  Peshwa 
kghoba  by  the  Treaty  of  Bassein  ceded 
fce  island  of  Salsette  in  perpetuity. 
h  1816  Trimbakji  Danglia,  tne  cele- 
bted  minister  of  Baji  Rao,  the  last 
\  fcshwa^  effected  his  escape  from  the 
Irt  of  Tanna,  though  guarded  by  a 
\  frong  body  of  European  soldiers.  The 
ifficuties  of  this  escape  were  greatly  ex- 
terated  all  over  the  Maratha  country, 
ia  it  was  compared  to  that  of  Shivaji 
fcm  the  power  of  Aurangzib.  The 
^cipol  agent  in  this  exploit  was  a 
laratna  horse-keeper  in  the  service 
tf  one  of  the  English  officers  of  the 
trrison,  who,  passing  and  re-]>assing 
nimbakji's  cell,  as  if  to  exercise  his 
taster's  horse,  sang  the  information 
«  wished  to  convey  in  a  careless 
Banner,  which  disarmed  suspicion, 
whop  Heber,  who  had  seen  Trimbakji 
vprisoned  in  the  fort  of  Chunar,  was 


much  interested  in  this  escape,  and 
writes — 

''The  groom's  sineing  was  made 
up  of  verses  like  the  following  :— 

"  Behind  the  bush  the  bowmen  hide, 
The  horse  beneatii  the  tree. 
Where  ahall  I  find  a  knight  will  ride 
The  Jungle  paths  with  me  ? 

"  There  are  five  and  fifty  coursers  "there, 
And  four  and  fifty  men ; 
When  the  fifby-fifth  shall  mount  his  steed, 
The  Deccan  thrives  again. " 

Heber  adds  that  Tanna  is  chiefly  in- 
habited by  Roman  Catholic  Christians, 
either  converted  Hindus  or  Portuguese, 
who  have  become  as  black  as  the 
natives  and  assume  all  their  habits ;  he 
also  describes  the  place  as  neat  and 
flourishing,  and  £unous  for  its  breed  of 
hogs,  and  the  manner  in  which  the  Por- 
tuguese inhabitants  cure  bacon.  The 
English  Church  was  being  built  when 
he  arrived,  and  on  10th  July  1825  was 
consecrated  by  him.  In  the  16th  cent, 
the  Silk  IindtLstry  here  employed  about 
6000  persons.  It  is  now  confined  to 
only  7  Portuguese  families  and  14  looms. 

[Tanna  is  the  best  starting-place  for 
the  Caves  of  Kanhari,  excavated  in 
one  of  the  hills  of  the  island  of  Sal- 
sette. It  is  about  6  m.  drive  in  a 
bullock-gharry  to  the  foot  of  the  hill. 
There  are  109  caves  in  all,  and  the 
largest  is  90  ft.  x  40  ft.  (see  Environs 
of  Bombay  at  the  beginning  and  p.  23).  ] 

88  m.  Kalyan  junct.  sta.  (R.)  Here 
the  Madras  line  through  Poona  and 
Raichur  branches  off  S.E.  (Rte.  22). 
This  is  a  very  ancient  town,  and  in 
early  times,  no  doubt,  was  the  capital 
of  an  extensive  province.  In  1780, 
the  Marathas  having  out  off  the 
supplies  from  Bombay  and  Salsette, 
the  British  Government  determined 
to  occupy  the  Konkan  opposite  Tanna, 
as  far  as  the  Ghats.  Accordingly, 
several  posts  were  seized,  and  Kalyan 
amongst  them;  and  here  Captain 
Richi^  Campbell  was  placed  with 
a  garrison.  Nana  Famavis  forthwith 
assembled  a  large  force  to  recover 
Kalyan,  on  which  he  set  a  high  value, 
and  his  first  operations  were  very 
successful.  He  attacked  the  English 
advanced  post  at  the  Ghats,  and 
killed  or  made  prisoners   the   whole 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  1.      BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


iwrfwi 


detachment.  He  then  compelled  En- 
sign Fyfe,  the  only  survivmg  officer, 
to  write  to  Captain  Campbell  that, 
unless  he  surrendered,  ne  would 
put  all  his  prisoners,  26  in  number, 
to  death,  storm  Ealyan,  and  put 
all  the  garrison  to  the  sword.  To 
this  Campbell  replied  that,  "the 
Nana  was  welcome  to  the  town  if 
he  could  take  it."  After  a  spirited 
defence,  he  was  relieved  by  Colonel 
Hartley,  on  the  24th  May,  just  as 
the  Marathas  were  about  to  storm. 
The  remains  of  buildings  round 
Ealyan  are  very  extensive ;  and  Fryer, 
who  visited  the  place  in  1673,  "gazed 
with  astonishment  on  ruins  of  stetely 
fabrics  and  many  traces  of  departed 
magnificence."  A  few  miles  S.  is  the 
fine  10th  century  temple  of  AmtMr- 
natb  (p.  818). 

Between  Ealyan  and  Igatpuri,  the 
railway  ascends  from  the  Eonkan  to 
the  Deccan  plateau  by  the  mountain- 
pass,  known  as  the  Tal  (Thull)  Ghat. 

75  m.  Easara  sta.  (R.)  Here  a 
special  en^ne  is  attached  and  the 
ascent  of  &e  Ghat  begins.  In  9}  m. 
the  line  ascends  1050  ft. 

At  79i  m.  is  the  reversing  station, 
and  the  ascent  terminates  at  85  m. 
Igatpuri,  30c  D.B.  (R.),  where  the  special 
engine  and  brakes  are  removed. 

The  ascent  of  the  Tal  Ghat  is  at  all 
seasons  interesting ;  but  it  is  most 
beautiful  in  September  owing  to  the 
wild  flowers.  The  leaves  are  then 
bright  green,  and  the  country  below 
the  Ghats  is  all  streams,  pools,  and 
inundations  ;  the  Ghats  themselves 
all  cascades  and  torrents.  Igatpuri, 
roperly  Wigatpura,  "  the  town  of  dif- 
iculties,"  so  called  on  account  of  the 
precipitous  road  that  preceded  the 
railway,  is  a  pleasant  sanitorium  and 
summer  resort  of  Europeans  from  Bom- 
bay. Some  large  game  is  to  be  foimd 
in  the  neighbourhood.  There  are 
several  European  bungalows  belonging 
to  railway  officials.  The  line  passes 
through  a  comparatively  level  country, 
with  low  mountains  on  either  side,  to 

113  m.  Deolali  sta.  A  halting-place 
for  troops  arriving  fipom  or  proceeding 
to  Europe.  There  are  barracks  for  1000 
men. 


I 


117  m.  NASIK  Road  ste.,  3^  D.B. 
( The  Nasika  of  Ptolemy. ) 

A  tramway  conveys  passengers  to 
the  town,  D.B.  (1900  ft.  above  sea- 
level),  6J  m.  N.W.  of  the  sta.  Pop. 
35,000.  It  is  one  of  the  most  sacred 
places  of  the  Hindus ;  1800  families 
of  Brahman  priests  are  settled  heie. 
It  is  said  that  Lakshman,  the  elder 
brother  of  Rama,  cut  off  the  n«e 
of  Sarpnakha,  Ravana's  sister  ;  and  as 
Nasika  in  Sanskrit  is  "a  nose,"  lie 
place  hence  got  its  name.  The  reil 
cause  of  the  sanctity  of  Nasik,  however, 
is  its  position  on  the  banks  of  the  sacred 
river  Godavari,  about  19  m.  from  its 
source  at  Trimbak. 

Nasik  may  be  called  the  Western 
Benares,  as  the  Godavari  is  termed  the 
Ganga — "Ganges."  All  Hindus  of 
rank  on  visiting  it  leave  a  record  of 
their  visit  with  their  Upadhya,  or 
"family  priest,"  for  each  noble  family 
has  such  a  priest  at  each  celebrated 
place  of  pilgrimage.  In  this  record 
are  entered  tibe  names  of  the  visitor's 
ancestors,  and  thus  the  pedigree  of 
every  Hindu  chief  is  to  be  found  in  the 
keeping  of  these  Upadhyas.  Even 
Jang  Bahadur,  the  late  de  fa/io  ruler 
of  Nipa],  had  his  Upadhya  at  Nasik. 
The  present  Gaekwar  owes  his  seat  on 
the  throne  to  this  custom,  for  when 
the  Gaekwar  of  Baroda  was  deposed 
and  an  heir  sought  for,  the  family 
Upadhya  at  Nasik  supplied  proofs  of 
the  young  prince's  legitimate  descent 
from  Pratap  Rao,  brother  of  Damaji, 
the  third  Gaekwar. 

The  Sundar  Narayan  Temple  was 
built  by  one  of  Holkar*s  Sanlars  in 
1725.  It  is  smaller  than  that  of  the 
Black  Rama  (see  below),  but  a  miracle 
of  art.  Below  it  may  be  seen  the 
temples  of  Balaji  and  of  the  White 
Bamxiy  and  the  Memorial  erected  to  the 
Eapurthala  Rajah,  who  died  in  1870 
near  Aden,  on  his  way  to  Europe. 
From  Sundar  Narayan  Temple  the  rivei 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge,  completed  is 
1897,  which  cost  Rs.  1.81.000. 

At  Nasik  the  river,  here  80  yds.  broad 
is  lined  on  either  side  for  a  distance  o; 
400  yds.  with  flights  of  steps,  and  dottec 
with  temples  and  shrines,  and,  as  ii 
most  Indian  cities  situated  near  flowin| 

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ROUTB  1.       NASIK 


29 


rivers,  the  view  along  the  banks  when 
iiundreds  of  men  and  women  are  bath- 
ing is  extremely  picturesque.  The 
part  of  the  town  which  stands  on  the 
rt  bank  of  the  river  is  built  upon  8 
hills,  and  is  divided  into  the  New  Town 
K.  ind  the  Old  Town  S.  The  quarter 
on  the  1.  bank,  where  are  the  chief 
objects  of  interest,  is  called  Panchwati. 
The  manufacture  of  brass  and  copper 
nan,  especially  of  idols,  caskets,  boxes, 
chains,  lamps,  etc.,  flourishes  here. 
Specimens  of  the  beautiful  old  work, 
thongh  rare,  are  still  occasionally  to  be 
foiffld  in  the  "  old  '*  copper  bazaar. 

The  temples  at^Nasik,  though  pic- 
turesque, have  no  striking  architectural 
fettures. 

}  m.  to  the  W.,  on  the  Panchwati 
sk  of  the  river,  is  a  solidly-built  house 
MoDgiog  to  the  Rastia  family.  Here 
ifight  and  walk  a  few  hundred  yards 
ap  a  lane  to  five  very  old  and  large 
trees  of  the  Ficus  indica  species.  U  nder 
the  shade  of  the  largest  is  a  small  build- 
ing. None  but  Hindus  may  pass  the 
vestibule.  It  consists  of  a  low  room, 
at  the  S.  end  of  which  is  an  arch  3  ft. 
high,  and  beyond  steps  descend  to 
2  apartments  5  ft.  sq.  and  4  ft  high. 
In  the  first  room  are  images  of  Rama, 
Sita,  and  Lakshman.  In  the  second 
is  an  image  of  Mahadeo,  6  in.  high, 
rhich  those  three  personages  are  said 
to  have  worshipped  ;  hence  arises  the 
extreme  sanctity  of  the  place,  which  is 

Jnite  one  of  the  holiest  in  Nasik.    This 
ole  is  Sita's  Onpha,  or  Cave,  where 
!  ihe  found  an  asylum  until  lured  away 
j  1)?  Bavaua  to  Ceylon.     Farther  down 
j  the  river,  and  just   before   reaching 
I  the  riverside,  is  the  oldest  temple  in 
the  place,  Eapdleshwar,  ''God  of  the 
!  Skull,"  a  name  of  Shiva.     The  ascent 
to  it  is  by  50  stone  steps.     It  is  said 
to  be  600  years  old,  but  is  quite  plain 
ind  unattractive.     Opposite  to  it  the 
river  foams  and  rushes  in  a  rocky  bed. 
Kama's  Kund  is  the  place  where  the 
^  is  said  to  have  bathed ;  hence  it 
,  B  very  sacred,  and  bones  of  the  dead 
ire  taken  there  to  be  washed  away. 
Opposite  to  it  and  in  the  river  itself  is 
I  stone  dharmsala,  with  several  arches, 
lK)&d  over,  in  which  ascetics  lodge 
thm   th3  water  is  low.     Down  the 


stream,  about  20  yds.,  are  three  temples 
erected  by  Ahalya  Bai.  The  first  is 
only  a  few  feet  high  and  long,  but  the 
next  is  a  large  square  building,  with  a 
stone  foundation  and  brick  superstruc- 
ture, dedicated  to  Rama ;  N.  of  it  is 
a  long  dharmsala,  and  a  little  down 
the  stream  is  the  third  temple,  all  of 
stone.  About  200  ft.  down  the  stream 
is  Nam  Shaakar's  temple,  with  an 
elaborately  carved  portico  and  a  large 
stone  enclosure.  This  ends  the  temples 
immediately  on  the  water  on  the  Panch- 
wati side.  Proceed  then  J  m.  by  a 
back  way  through  streets  of  well-built 
houses  to  the  great  temple  dedicated  to 
Kal&  Rama,  or  "Black  Rama,"  which 
cost  £70,000.  It  stands  in  an  oblong 
stone  enclosure,  with  96  arches.  To 
the  W.  is  a  hill  called  Sunar  'All, 
and  there  is  another  hill  close  by, 
called  Junagadh,  or  Old  Foii;,  on 
which  is  a  square  building,  in  which 
Aurangzib's  chief  officials  used  to 
reside.  They  command  fine  views  over 
the  city.  The  Hingue  Wada,  an  old 
palace  of  the  Peshwa  (chief  of  the 
Mahrattas),  at  present  used  as  a  school, 
is  worth  a  visit  for  its  beautiful  carved 
wood-work. 

The  traveller  should  not  leave  Nasik 
without  visiting  Sharanpore,  seat  of 
the  mission  founded  by  the  Church 
Missionary  Society  in  1835,  in  the 
Junawadi  part  of  Nasik,  and  moved  to 
Sharanpore  by  Mr.  W.  S.  Price  in  1855. 
Since  tne  establishment  of  the  Grovem- 
ment  High  School  at  Nasik  in  1872 
the  missionary  school  has  fallen  off. 
There  was  connected  with  this  mission 
an  African  Asylum  for  youths  rescued 
from  slavery,  and  it  was  from  here  that 
Livingstone's  Nasik  hoys  were  drawn. 
It  closed  in  1875,  and  Mr.  Price  took 
the  boys  to  the  E.  coast  of  Africa,  where 
a  colony  is  established  for  redeemed 
slaves.  There  is  a  well-built  but  archi- 
tecturally disappointing  church. 

In  a  hill  4|  m.  S.  of  Nasik  are  the 
Lena  Caves.  A  narrow  path  ascends 
to  the  height  of  about  450  ft  to  a 
broad  black  line  in  the  N.  face  of  the 
hill,  which  extends  about  J  m.  in  length, 
and  marks  the  excavations.  In  the 
centre,  just  opposite  the  spot  where 
the  path  ends,  is  a  Cave  37  ft  x  29  ft. , 

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ROUTE  1.      BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


and  10  ft.  high,  with  a  perfectly  flat 
roof,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock.  Kound 
the  central  chamber  are  16  cells,  each 
6  ft  sq.  with  a  recess,  hewn  so  as  to 
make  a  couch  -for  the  inmate.  In  the 
centre  is  a  modem  figure  of  Bhairav 
(see  below)  with  a  mace,  on  which  he 
leans  with  his  left  hand.  On  either 
side  of  him  is  an  earlj  female  figure. 
That  on  the  right  is  fairly  well  carved. 
On  the  inside  face  of  the  corridor,  and 
on  one  side,  is  a  long  inscription  in  old 
Pali  characters.  To  the  W .  is  a  small 
cave  with  two  pillars  with  elephants  on 
their  capitals  ;  then  a  ruined  cell  with 
a  broken  inscribed  tablet.  Next  is  a 
fine  cave  (No.  3)  with  six  pillars,  of 
which  two  are  broken,  and  the  heads 
and  busts  of  six  giants  supporting  the 
basement  of  the  corridor.  Inside  the 
verandah,  on  the  left  of  the  entrance, 
are  two  long  inscriptions.  The  door 
has  a  figure  about  4  ft.  high  on  either 
side,  which  is  probably  a  Yaksha,  and 
all  round  the  door  are  small  figures 
much  defaced.  Then  there  is  a  large 
chamber,  nearly  the  same  size  as  that 
in  the  first  cave,  with  18  cells  surround- 
ing it.  At  the  end  is  a  da^oba  with 
figures  on  the  sides,  a  carved  belt  half 
way  up,  and  a  double  ornament  at  top. 
To  the  W.  is  a  low  cave  with  12  figures. 
On  the  left  is  Buddha,  seated,  with 
attendant  figures  on  either  side,  and 
opposite  are  other  two  figures.  To  the 
W.  in  a  line  with  them  is  a  figure  3  ft. 
6  in.  high,  called  by  the  guides  Gautama. 
Then  there  is  a  large  excavation,  about 
20  ft.  long,  called  Sita's  tank  which 
is  carried  under  the  rock.  There  are 
four  pillars  in  front,  two  of  them  broken. 
Above  is  a  frieze  6  in.  broad,  with  figures 
of  horses,  bulls,  deer,  and  elephants. 
Beyond  is  a  tank.  To  the  E.  is  a 
Chaitya  cave  (No.  13)  with  seven  pillars 
and  a  dagoba,  which  the  guides  say  is 
Bhhn's  mace.  Beside  it  is  a  vihara 
(No.  12)  approached  by  steps.  It  has 
seven  cells  round  it,  and  at  the  N.  end 
a  defaced  figure  of  a  goddess. 

Farther  £.  is  the  large  Vihara  Cave 
(No.  15).  It  is  46  ft.  deep,  and  37  ft. 
broad.  There  are  22  cells  round  it.  On 
the  right  and  left  of  the  q)eotator  as  he 
enters  the  ante-chamber  to  the  shiine 
are  two  dw&rapals,  probably  Manjushri 


and  Avalokita.  In  the  recess  is  a; 
seated  figure  of  Buddha,  as  he  sits 
with  attendant  disciples  or  Boohisatvas.  | 
There  is  a  wall  3  ft.  high  in  front  of; 
the  recess,  which  is  so  dark  tiiatl 
nothing  can  be  seen  without  a  torch.! 
There  are  several  other  smaller  cellsl 
of  less  importance.^ 

About  2  m.  E.  of  the  town,  in  tlie 
hill  of  Ramshej,  is  another  group  of 
excavations,  but  they  are  of  little  im- 
portance. 

19  m.  by  road  is  Trimbak. 

There  are  several  stone-faced  wdls 
on  this  route,  and  at  Nirwadi,  on  the 
right  of  the  road,  is  a  beautiful  tank 
lined  with  stone,  and  with  stone  steps 
and  2  small  paeodas  built  by  Ahalya 
Bai.  Near  Warn  2  conical  hills,  about 
900  ft.  high,  face  each  other  on  eithe^ 
side  of  the  road.  From  these  the  hillti 
run  in  fantastic  shapes  to  TWmbak 
where  they  form  a  gigantic  crescenl 
from  1210  to  1600  ft.  high.  Belo^j 
this  mountain  waU,  which  has   nea^ 


11 


the  top  a  scarp  of  about  100  ft.,  is  th^ 
small  town  of  about  8000  inhab.  I 
derives  its  name  from  Tri,  "three 
and  Ambak,  "eye"  ;  three-eyed  bein^ 
a  name  of  Shiva.  The  Fort  stands  oi] 
an  impregnable  height,  1800  ft.  abov^ 
the  town.  The  Temple  of  Trlmbakeslii 
wax,  which  is  on  the  E.  side  of  th^ 
town,  not  far  from  where  the  Nasil 
road  enters,  was  built  by  the  great  Baj 
Kao  Peshwa,  who  died  in  1740.  I 
cost  £90,000.  It  stands  in  a  stone  eni 
closure,  which  has  no  corridor,  but  « 
portico,  which  is  the  music  gaUeryl 
and  is  40  ft.  high.  The  ascent  is  b^ 
steps  outside,  and  strangers  are  perj 
mitted  to  mount  in  order  to  look  int^ 
the  interior  of  the  temple,  which  non^ 
but  Hindus  may  enter.  A  flight  ol 
690  steps  up  a  hul  at  the  back  of  Trim 
bak  leads  to  the  sacred  source  of  th^ 
river  Grodavari,  where  "the  watei 
trickles  drop  by  drop  from  the  lips  o 
a  carven  image  shrouded  by  a  canop; 
of  stone"  into  a  tank  below.    For  ■ 

1  See  Fergusson  and  Burgess,  Cave  TenpUi 
pp.  268-270,  and  plates  xix.>xxyi ;  and  Buigess 
Cktve  Temples,  pp.  87flr. 


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ftOttTB  1.      ElPSDlTIOl^  !rO  AJAKIIA 


31 


IL  the  banks  of  the  stream,  15  ft.  broad, 
are  &ced  with  stone.  The  water  is 
&*ty.  On  its  coarse  is  a  fine  stone 
tank,  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  a 
portions  25  ft  high,  with  a  pagoda  at 
eich  comer.  This  is  the  sacred  bath- 
ing-place of  pilgrims,  and  is  called  the 
Kushawat.  In  front  of  it  are  two  stone 
enclesures  full  of  filthy  water,  into 
rhifih  the  leaves  offered  to  the  deities 
ire  thrown  and  there  decompose.  At 
the  8.  end  is  a  temple  to  Shiva. 

147  m.  Laaalgaon  sta.  From  this 
place  Gh4mdoT,  an  interesting  town, 
oveAung  by  a  fine  hill -fort,  is  14  m. 
N.  by  a  good  road.  The  Maharajah 
Hcftar  is  hereditary  Patel  of  Chandor. 
The  fort  was  taken  by  the  British  in 
18M,  and  again  in  1818. 

162  m.  Mniimar  junct.  sta.,  D.B.  (B./ 
Tlas  is  the  junction  of  the  Dhond 
ud  Munmar  State  Railway,  which 
forms  a  cord  line  between  the  N.E. 
and  S.E.  branches  of  the  G.I.P.R. 
About  4  m.  S.  of  the  station  is  the 
Ankai  Tanki  Fort,  now  in  ruins,  and 
1  Buddhist  caves  of  some  interest. 
Between  tile  caves  and  the  station 
rises  a  curious  hill  called  Bam  Gulni, 
mrmounted  by  a  natural  obelisk  of 
trap  rock  80  or  90  feet  high. 

178  m.  Naadgaon  sta.,  D.B.  (B.) 
From  here  a  road  runs  S.E.  to  Auran- 
gabad,  56  m.,  the  fort  of  Daulatabad, 
ffld  the  Caves  of  EUora  (see  Rte.  2). 

282  m.  Fadiora  sta.,  D.B.    From 
bere  the  Oaves  of  Ajanta,  distant  84  m., 
ve  reached  by  a  rough  road. 
[Expedition  to  AJaata. 

The  D.B.^  nearest  to  the  caves  is  at 
Fardapur,  80  m.  from  Pachora.  The 
kcst  way  is  to  write  at  least  one  clear 
day  before  to  the  Mamlatdar  (native 
magistrate)  at  Pachora  asking  him 
to  arrange  for  conveyances.  A  traveller 
vho  does  not  know  the  language  well 
must  be  accompanied  by  a  servant  or 
interpreter,  and  each  person  must  have 
bedding  and  provisions.     The  journey 

1  It  is  said  that  the  best  road  to  AJa^ta  is 
low  ftora.  Jalgaon  sta.  (distance  about  80  m.) 
foither  B.  along  the  line.  Special  arran^e- 
aents  for  carriages  are  necessary,  and  permis- 
sion to  occupy,  if  required,  one  of  the  two 
Dak  Bungalows  on  the  road.  The  travel'er 
should  write  one  clear  day  or  two  days  bAfore- 
haud  to  the  Gollector  of  Khandesh  at  Dholia. 
mentioning  the  number  of  persons  in  the 
party. 


will  take  from  9  to  12  hours,  and  cost 
from  12  to  16  rs.  for  each  cart  Not 
more  than  80  pounds  of  luggage  should 
be  taken  in  the  cart  The  less  the 
better  for  speed  and  comfort.  There 
are  fairly  good  guides  on  the  spot. 

The  caves  are  a  good  hour's  walk,  4  m. 
by  a  bridle-path  from  the  D.B.  at 
Fardapur.  The  bed  of  the  Wagora 
river  is  crossed  and  recrossed  several 
times.  The  ravine  is  wooded.  The 
caves  extend  about  one-third  of  a  mile 
from  E.  to  W.,  and  are  excavated  in 
the  concave  scarp  of  the  trap  rock,  at  an 
elevation  of  from  35  to  110  ft  above  the 
bed  of  the  stream.  The  most  ancient 
caves  are  near  the  K  end. 

Following  Fergusson's  arrangement, 
they  are  numbered  from  E.  to  W .  The 
cave-temples  and  monasteries  of  Ajanta 
furnish  a  history  of  Buddhist  art,  and 
illustrate  the  legends  of  the  religion  and 
the  domestic  life  of  the  people  from 
shortly  after  the  reign  of  Asoka  to 
shortly  before  the  expulsion  of  the  faith 
from  India.  The  oldest  caves  are 
believed  to  date  from  about  200  B.c.^ 

The  narrow  path  by  which  access  is 
gained  to  the  caves  reaches  them  at  the 
seventh  cave  from  the  E.  Thence  the 
path  goes  on  ascending  to  E.  and  W. 
along  a  narrow  ledge,  in  some  places 
little  more  than  2  ft.  broad,  and  reaches 
cave  Number  1,  the  farthest  point  on 
the  E.  This  is  a  Vihara.  Dr.  Burgess 
assigns  this  cave  to  the  7th  century. 
The  fa5ade  is  richly  decorated  with 
sculptured  processions  of  elephants, 
horses,  and  people.  On  the  S.  frieze  of 
the  portico  is  a  very  sjArited  repre- 
sentation of  a  wild  buffalo  hunt.  The 
hunters  are  mounted  and  armed  with 
bows  and  arrows.  The  door  jambs  are 
embellished  with  male  and  female 
figures  in  amatory  attitudes.  The  great 
hall  or  central  chamber  is  64  ft  sq., 
and  has  20  pillars.  The  capital  of 
one  on  the  S.  side  is  remarkable  for 
four  bodies  of  deer  with  only  one  head, 
which  suits  each  body  according  to  the 
position  from  which  you  look  at  it 
There  are  remains  of  highly  interesting 

1  The  Indian  Grovemment  caused  copies  of 
these  ancient  mural  paintings  to  be  made, 
and  ninety  of  them  may  be  seen  at  the  South 
Kensington  Museum.  Several  were  destroyed 
by  a  fire  soon  after  arrival.  t 

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paintings  in  oil  on  the  walls  of  this  cave. 
Remark  on  the  rieht-hand  side  of  the 
back  wall  a  very  Chinese-looking  figure 
of  a  youth  with  a  perfectly  white  skin. 
Remark  also  four  pictures  of  a  group 
of  four  figures,  which  Mr.  Fergusson 
has  pronounced  to  be  very  probably 
Khusru  and  Shirin  and  two  attendants. 
Khusru  II.,  or  Khusru  Parviz,  whose 
loves  with  Shirin  are  the  subject  of 
some  of  the  most  famous  Persian  poetry, 
reigned  from  591  to  628  A.D.  This  king 
of  Persia  received  an  embassy  from  a 
king  of  the  Deccan,  in  whose  territory 
were  the  Caves  of  Ajanta,  and  it  is 
thought  by  some  that  when  the  embassy 
returned  the  king  sent  with  it  Persian 
painters  who  executed  these  designs. 
The  king,  a  large  fair  man  with  all  the 
look  of  a  voluptuary,  and  dressed  in 
Eastern  robes  with  a  strange  high 
loose  cap  something  like  the  red  night- 
cap which  used  to  be  worn  in  England, 
holds  a  broad  shallow  cup,  into  which 
a  beautiful  girl,  supposed  to  be  Shirin, 
is  pouring  wine  from  a  vase  of  classic 
character.  In  another  tableau  the 
king  in  royal  state  is  receiving  and 
apparently  sending  back  the  embassy 
from  the  Indian  prince.  There  is  a 
sort  of  fillet  worn  by  Khusru,  which 
resembles  that  exhibited  on  a  patera 
in  Paris,  and  displays  an  undoubted 
representation  of  Khusru.  In  the 
shrine  of  this  cave  Buddha  is  seated  in 
the  teaching  attitude.  There  are  four 
cells  in  the  back  wall  besides  the  shrine, 
and  five  in  each  side  wall.  The  paint- 
ings in  this  cave,  as  in  Numbers  2  and 
16,  are,  in  Dr.  Burgess's  opinion,  auite 
equal  in  colour  and  groupmg  to  those 
at  Pompeii. 

Number  2,  a  vihara  cave.  There  are 
two  chapels  to  the  verandah.  Observe 
in  ceiling  near  the  S.  chapel  two  figures 
of  men  with  striped  socks.  One  holds 
a  beautifully-shaped  amphora,  and  a 
flattish  cup  in  his  hand.  The  flowers 
on  the  ceiling  are  particularly  beautiful. 
Inside  the  side  chapels  in  the  back 
wall  are  very  remarkable  ItalianJook- 
ing  female  figures.  The  middle  one 
of  one  of  the  4  groups  has  quite  the 
look  of  a  Madonna,  and  all  resemble 
the  Italian  paintings  of  the  early  part 
of  the  14th  century.     Buddha  holds 


the  little  finder  of  his  left  hand  with  thJ 
thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  right.  Th^ 
Mohammedans  seem  not  to  have  geaer 
ally  destroyed  the  noses  here  as  tkej 
have  at  Ellora.  In  the  centre  o^ 
Buddha's  throne  isthe  Wheel  of  theLaii 
between  two  deer.  The  chapel  in  th^ 
back  wall,  on  the  right  of  the  shrine,  ha< 
two  figures,  which  are  either  the  pa^i 
and  patroness  or  Indra  and  Indmiil 
In  the  left-hand  top  comer  is  a  verj 
remarkable  groun,  to  all  appearance  \ 
woman  teaching  her  child  to  pray,  anc 
resembling  a  famous  European  piotir« 
On  the  frieze  below  is  a  ram-fignt,  anc 
figures  boxing  and  wrestling,  witl 
musicians  and  a  president.  The  Italian 
looking  figures  of  fair  women  are  man^ 
of  them  nude  to  the  waist.  The  chape 
on  the  left  has  two  male  figures  with  head 
dresses  like  wings  of  an  enormous  size 
and  all  hanging  on  the  left  shoulder,  j 

Number  3,  9,  small  vihara,  quite  un 
finished. 

Number  4,  a  large  vihara.  There  il 
a  very  remarkable  representation  of  th( 
Litany,  as  it  is  called  by  Dr.  Burgess 
on  the  right  of  the  door,  consisting  o 
two  sets  of  four  groups  each.  The  ls{ 
group  on  the  left  consists  of  two  figure! 
nying  from  an  infuriated  elephant 
the  2d  group  is  of  two  figures  flyinj 
from  a  lion;  the  8d  exhibits  tw< 
figures  flying  from  a  roan  with  i 
sword,  who  is  stabbing  one  in  th< 
stomach ;  the  4th  group  is  intende* 
to  represent  the  perils  of  the  sea,  but  i 
so  much  obliterated  that  one  can  mak) 
out  nothing  but  some  fibres  in  a  vessel 
The  1st  group  on  the  nght  hand  repre 
senta  the  perils  of  fire ;  the  2d  grou] 
is  a  pair  of  figures  threatened  by  i 
cobra ;  the  3d  group  is  of  two  figures 
one  of  which  holds  tne  other  by  a  rope 
which  passes  over  his  shoulder  and  l 
fastenea  round  his  wrist, — this  repre 
sents  Captivity ;  the  4th  group  repre 
sents  Kali  the  Hindu  goddess  of  destruc 
tion,  uplifting  her  skeleton  arms  to  seizi 
a  victim, — this  represents  Famine. 

Number  6,  a  vihara,  commenced  only 

Number  6,  a  vihara,  remarkable  foi 
having  two  stories,  of  which  there  h 
here  only  one  other  example,  viz,  cavt 
Number  25.  The  staircase  to  th< 
upper   stoiy  is  broken  away  to  th( 


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BOUTB  1.      EXPEDITION  TO  AJANTA 


83 


\Bgh.t  of  18  ft.,  80  that  that  story  is 
iloiost  inaccessihle.  The  Bhil  free- 
bten  for  a  long  time  inhabited  this 
•76,  and  damag^  it  excessively. 

Nvtnber  7,  a  vihara.  It  has  a  large 
leraiidah  with  cells  at  the  back  like  the 
(bttaek  Caves.  Two  porches  of  two 
jdlars  each  project  from  the  front  line 
of  the  venuadah,  resembling  those  at 
Gepbsnta  and  the  Duma  Lena,  and  are 
]ioDtbIy  of  the  same  date.  There  is  also 
leh^  with  two  pillars  at  either  end. 
la  tie  vestibule  are  4  rows  of  5  cross- 
kged  figures  seated  on  the  lotus,  with 
ilottt  Mtween  each  pair,  and  one  row 
of  sbdying  Buddhas.  On  the  right 
aie  tro  similar  sculptures  of  repeated 
figiiiiB  of  Buddha  seated  and  standing. 
Wiiin  the  sanctuary  on  either  side  are 
two  large  figures  and  one  small,  and 
tvD  £m-bearer8.  On  the  step  are  16 
cnss-l^ged  figures,  8  on  either  side. 

i^woKr  8,  a  vihara  of  no  interest. 

A^imier9isadagoba.  There  are  3  in- 
scriptions, probably  of  the  2d  cent.  a.d. 

dumber  10,  a  dagoba.  The  statue 
of  Buddha  is  quite  separated  from  the 
nil  The  roof  is  ribbed.  The  ribbing 
IB  the  aisles  being  of  stone,  and  in  the 
tt?e  of  wood,  wough  now  only  the 
^ning  pins,  and  the  footings  for  one 
ttwo  of  the  ribs  are  left.  The  da- 
(iitta  is  plain  and  solid,  with  only  the 
•pare  capital  or  Tee  on  the  top.  The 
%Ie  of  this  cave  has  been  painted, 
4ingh  now  only  some  figures  ofBuddha 
«i  his  disciples  are  len.  On  the  in- 
fcior  fiice  of  the  cave,  and  very  high 
%is  an  inscription  in  the  pure  Ldt  (see 
wary)  character,  which  would  give 
•antiquity  of  from  200  to  100  B.o. 

i/wnwer  11  resembles  cave  Num- 
W  12,  but  has  four  pillars  in  the 
<ltre  supporting  the  roof,  being  prob- 
%  one  of  the  earHest  instances  of 
h  introduction  of  pillars  for  such  a 
fipose.  On  the  walls  are  antelopes, 
fcs,  and  a  boy  praying,  sculptured  in 
lb  very  best  style  of  ait,  and  evidently 
omd  with  the  Ganesh  Gupha  at 
lOtttack.  The  walls  have  been  stuccoed 
M  painted. 

Muniber  12  is  one  of  the  most  ancient 
ill  plainest  of  the  series,  having  no 
ftkrSf  sanctuary,  or  visible  object  of 
Ntship.    The  only  ornament  consists 


of  seven  horse-shoe  canopies  on  each 
side,  four  over  the  doors  of  the  ceUs, 
the  other  three  merely  ornamental. 
These  canopies  are  very  similar  to 
those  at  Cuttack.  There  is  an  inscrip- 
tion on  the  inner  wall  in  a  character 
slightly  modified  from  that  on  the 
LdtSy  and  written  probably  early  in  the 
Christian  era,  if  not  before  it. 

Number  18,  a  small  cave  with  2  cells. 

Number  14,  a  large  unfinished  vihara. 

Number  15,  a  plain  square  cave. 

Number  16  and  Number  17  are  the 
two  finest  viharas  of  the  series.  On  the 
external  faces  are  two  long  inscriptions. 
These  caves  date  probably  about  the 
4th  century  A.  D.  The  paintings  in  the 
great  hall  are  very  interesting,  repre- 
senting battles.  The  soldiers  hold 
short  swords  like  the  Nipalese  knife, 
and  oblong  shields,  like  the  shield  of 
Achilles.  The  architectural  details 
are  more  ele^mt  than  in  any  cave  in 
the  series.  Number  17  is  called  the 
Zodiac  Cave,  and  resembles  16,  except 
that  it  is  not  so  lofty,  and  the  detam 
are  not  so  elegant.  Tlie  paintings,  how- 
ever, are  more  perfect.  On  the  right- 
hand  wall,  as  you  enter,  a  procession  is 
painted.  Three  elephants  are  issuing 
from  a  gateway,  one  black,  one  white, 
and  one  red.  Flags  and  umbrellas  are 
borne  before  them,  and  men  with-speara 
and  swords  make  up  the  train.  On  the 
back  wall  is  a  hunting  scene,  in  which 
a  maned  lion,  now  not  found  in  India, 
is  a  prominent  figure.  In  the  verandah 
are  some  curious  paintings,  especially  a 
circular  one,  with  eight  compartments. 
Over  the  door  are  eight  sitting  figures, 
of  which  four  are  black,  and  the  rest 
each  a  degree  fairer,  the  eighth  being 
quite  white  and  wearing  a  crown.  Mr. 
Fergusson  pronounces  these  paintings 
to  be  decidedly  superior  to  the  style 
of  Europe  during  the  age  in  which 
they  were  execut^. 

Number  18  is  merely  a  porch  with 
two  pillars. 

Number  19  is  a  chaitya  (see  Glossary) 
cave,  remarkable  for  the  beauty  of  its 
details.  The  roof  is  ribbed  in  stone. 
The  dagoba  has  three  stone  umbrellas, 
rising  till  they  touch  the  roof ;  in  front 
is  a  standing  figure  of  Buddha. 

Number  20  is  a  vihai'a. 


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84 


ROUTE  1.       BOMBAT  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


Number  21.  The  paintings  are 
almost  obliterated,  except  on  the  left 
hand  as  you  enter,  where  there  is  a 
large  black  Buddha  with  red  hair, 
attended  by  black  slaves,  also  a  number 
of  females,  fair  as  Europeans. 

Numbers  22  and  23  are  unimportant. 

Number  24  is  unfinished;  but  the 
details,  where  completed,  are  so  rich  as 
to  leave  no  doubt  that  this  would  have 
been  one  of  the  finest  caves  had  the 
design  been  fully  carried  out  Only  one 
pillar  has  been  completely  sculptured. 

Number  25  is  a  small  rude  vmara. 

Number  26  is  a  vaulted  ohaitya  cave, 
and  perhaps  the  most  modem  of  the 
series.  It  resembles  Number  19,  but 
is  much  larger.  Its  sculptures  are 
more  numerous  and  minute  than  any 
other.  The  Buddha  in  front  of  the 
dagoba  is  seated,  with  his  feet  down. 
The  walls  are  covered  with  sculptures 
of  Buddha  and  disciples.  In  uie  S. 
aisle  is  a  figure  23  ft.  3  in.  long,  reclin- 
ing all  its  length,  in  which  attitude 
Buddhists  prepare  to  receive  nirvdnaht 
"beatitude."  Above  are  many  angels, 
one  of  them  sounding  vigorously  a  big 
drum.  The  fat  figures  which  serve  as 
brackets  have  four  arms.  There  are 
•two  inscriptions  on  the  outside,  one 
under  a  figure  of  Buddha  on  the  left  of 
the  entrance ;  the  other  much  broken, 
but  more  distinct,  on  the  right,  in  the 
character  of  the  6th  century  A.D. 

Number  27  is  small  and  unfinished.] 

276  m.  Bhnsawal  June.  sta.  (R.)  A 
place  called  into  existence  by  the 
G.I.P.E.  works.  Junction  of  the 
Bengal  -  Nagpur  Railway.  (See  p. 
73.) 


278i  m.  The  TapU  Bridge,  one  of 

the  most  important  works  on  the  line. 
The  first  bridge  built  was  abandoned 
in  consequence  of  the  inferior  nature 
of  the  stone  of  which  it  was  con- 
structed. 


310m.Burhanpur8ta.D.B.  The  city 
18  about  8  m.  distant.  Pop.  84,000. 
It  lias  been  a  place  of  much  import- 


ance, and  is  completely  walled  in.  The 
neighbourhood  contains  some  interest- 
ing Mohammedan  ruins,  and  a  curious 
aqueduct  still  in  use.  In  the  town  are 
two  handsome  mosques.  The  Baithai 
KUla—thQ  ruins  of  a  citadel  and  pikce 
— ^is  beautifully  situated  on  a  hekht 
overlooking  the  Tapti  river.  fh« 
place  was  founded  in  1400  A.D.  by 
Naser  Ehan  of  the  Faruki  dynasty  of 
Ehandesh,  and  was  annexea  to  the 
Mogul  Empire  by  Akbar  in  1600  A.D. 
It  was  the  capital  of  the  Deccan  Pro- 
vince of  the  empire  when  in  1614  A.D. 
Sir  Thomas  l^e,  ambassador  ^m 
James  I.  to  the  great  Mogul,  passed 
through,  and  paid  his  respects  to  the 
Viceroy  Prince  Parvis,  son  of  Jehanglr. 
Sir  Thomas  complains  that  the  Prince 
''  made  himself  orunk  out  of  a  case  ol 
bottles  I  gave  him,  and  so  the  visit 
ended."  The  place  was  taken  bj 
General  Wellesley  in  1808,  and  mvei 
back  to  Sindia  the  next  year.  It  ii 
now  British  territory. 

822  m.  Chandni  sta.  About  6  m.  b] 
a  fair  road  is  Asirgarh,  an  interest 
ing  and  picturesque  hill-fort,  a  detache^ 
rock  standing  up  850  ft.  from  the  sur 
rounding  plam.  It  Was  taken  by  stom 
by  General  Well^ey's  army  in  180^ 
restored  to  Sindia,  and  a^in  taken  ii 
1819,  since  when  it  has  belonged  to  thi 
British.  The  country  around  is  wili 
and  abounds  in  large  game. 

858  m.  Ehaadwa  junc.  sta.,  D.c 
(R. )  A  civil  station,  the  chief  place  c 
the  district  of  Nimar  in  the  Centn 
Provinces.  From  here  the  metre-gauj 
system  of  the  Bombay,  Baroda,  a^ 
Central  Indian  Railway  runs  N.  I 
Mhow,  Indore,  and  through  Westei 
Malwa  to  Ajmere,  Agra,  and  Delhi  m 
Bte.  4) ;  also  to  Ferozpore,  Pmnab.  1 

417  m.  Harda  sta.,  D.B.  close 
station,  good  (pop.  about*14,000). 
important  mart  for  the  export 
grain  and  seeds.  Here  the  rail^ 
enters  the  great  wheat -field  of  1 
Nerbudda  valley,  which  extends 
Jubbulpore.  Haida  has  a  good  IX 
8  m.  walk  from  the  sta.  Ralli  B] 
have  an  agency  at  Harda. 

464  m.  Itarsi  junc  sta.,  D.B.  ( 


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B0X7TE  1.       EXPSDITIOK  TO  THE  MARBLB  ROOKS 


35 


horn  this  the  system  of  the  Indian 
Kdlaod  Bailway  rans  N.  to  Hoshan- 
|d)ad,  Bhopal,  Jhansi,  Gwalior,  Agra, 
ad  G^wnpore  (see  Bte.  6), 

505  m.  Pipaiia  sta.  3^  There  is  a 
QOBifortable  D.B.  dose  to  the  station. 
[i  fair  road  leads  in  32  m.  S.  to 
hchaarijsOc  the  hill-station  of  the 
OBQtnl  Provinces.  There  are  many 
bnngalows  at  Pachmari  and  barracks, 
^ciare  occupied  by  European  troops 
in  the  hot  season.  The  station  is  nearly 
40OO  feet  above  sea -level.  There  is 
aD.E  on  the  way  ;  the  ascent,  which 
is  12  m.  long,  is  very  pleasing.  Good 
large-game  diooting  in  the  forests 
below  the  station.] 

5U  m.  0adarwara  junc.  sta.  A 
railway  12  m.  long  leads  S.  to  the  Moh- 
pui  coal-mines,  worked  by  the  Ner- 
bndda  Coal  Co. 

616  m.  JABALFUB  sta.  s^c  (792 
m.  from  Calcutta  b;^  the  Allahabad 
route).  (R.),  an  important  civil 
tad  military  station,  the  meeting- 
"^ce  of  the  G.I.  P.  and  East  Indian 


The  town  (pop.  84,570)  and  station 
M  well  laid  out  and  well  cared  for, 
k  contain  little  of  interest  in  them- 
ires.  Travellers  stop  here  in  order  to 
iit  the  Marble  Rocks  (see  below. )  In 
liinodern  settlement  of  India  few  sub- 
^  have  created  more  interest  than 
ii suppression  of  the  Thags  {Thug8\ 
4itemity  devoted  to  the  murder  of 
kan  beings  by  strangulation.  The 
"  ipation  was  hereditary.  They  made 
t  once  a  religion  and  a  means  of 
ihood.  The  principal  agent  in 
iting  down  these  criminals  was 
lelSleemau,  and  it  was  at  Jabal- 
|t — ^  great  centre  of  their  operations 
«ftat  the  informers  and  the  families  of 
^captured  Thags  were  confined.  They 
Ike  kept  in  an  enclosed  village,  and 
^provide  them  with  occupation  the 
#e  famous  "  School  of  Industry  "  was 

elished  in  1885.  Originally  there 
2500  of  these  people,  now  very  few 
JNliin.  A  pass  is  required  to  see  the 
BSkig  vUla^e,  and  the  interesting  and 
pi  organSed  JalL 


[Expedition  to  the  Marble  Bocks.^ 

The  Marble  Rocks,  which  are  11  m. 
from  Jabalpur,  are  worth  a  visit. 
Tongas  can  be  hired  for  the  trip.  The 
road  is  heavy  and  dusty  in  places,  but 
generally  Kood.  About  half-way,  and 
i  m.  olf  the  main  road  is  a  remarkable 
ancient  fortress  of  the  Gond  Kings, 
perched  on  the  summit  of  an  enormous 
granite  boulder.  At  9J  m.  turn  1.  to 
the  rocks  by  a  branch  road,  which  for 
the  last  i  m.  is  impracticable  in  the 
rains.  There  is  a  comfortable  D.B. 
Descend  70  ft.  to  the  river-side,  and 
there  embark.  Four  men  to  row  and 
one  to  steer  are  quite  enough.  The 
river  in  the  dry  season  is  a  series  of 
deep  pools  without  current,  and  of  a 
dark  green,  and  full  of  fish  and  alli- 
gators. The  latter  do  not  come  out  on 
the  rocks  till  the  sun  is  high,  when 
they  bask,  and  might  be  shot  at,  were 
it  not  for  the  bees.  There  are  pigeons, 
too,  and  water-fowl,  but  shooting  has 
its  perils,  for  there  are  both  hornets' 
and  bees'  nests.     These  quickly  attack 

Jiersons  who  fire  guns  or  make  a  noise, 
ust  at  the  end  of  the  pools,  at  a  place 
called  the  Monkey's  leap,  two  young 
railway  engineers  were  attacked  by  bees 
as  they  were  shooting.  One  got  ashore 
and  ran  off  with  the  natives  into  the 
jungle,  and  though  much  stun^,  escaped 
death.  The  other  jumped  into  the 
water  and  dived,  and  though  a  good 
swimmer,  was  drowned,  for  when  he 
came  up  the  bees  attacked  him  again, 
and  would  not  leave  him  till  he  sank. 
The  nests  are  quite  black,  and  more 
than  a  yard  long.  The  cliffs  are  of 
white  marble,  which,  when  broken,  is 
bright  and  sparkling,  but  the  surface 
is  somewhat  discoloured  by  the  weather 
Near  the  new  bungalow,  where  are 
several  white  temples,  the  cliffs  are 
80  ft.  high.  The  water  is  said  by  the 
people  of  the  place  to  be  here  160  ft. 
deep.  1  m.  farther  the  barrier  rocks 
intercept  the  stream,  and  no  boat  can 
pass  in  the  dry  season.     In  the  rains  ^ 

1  Passengers  who  are  pressed  for  time,  h^ 
telefiraphing  beforehand  to  the  hotel  manager 
at  Jabalpur  to  have  a  carriage  rea^for 
them  at  the  rly.  sta.,  may  visit  thei>ocks, 
and  proceed  on  their  journey  by  the  fqiowing 
train. 


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36 


ROUTE  1.      BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


Indii 


the  riyer  rises  30  ft,  and  is  then  a 
mighty  torrent,  and  very  dangerous 
About  i  m.  upon  the  1.  is  an  in- 
scription in  the  Nagri  character,  made 
by  Madhu  Rao  Peshwa.  f  m.  1.  are 
curious  rocks  called  Hathi  ka  Panw, 
**  elephant's  legs,"  from  a  fancied  resem- 
blance. The  neight  of  the  rocks  no- 
where exceeds  90  ft.,  and  though  the 
scenery  is  picturesque,  it  is  not  grand. 
There  is  a  cascade  {  m.  beyond  the 
barrier  rocks  called  the  Dhuandhar 
or  **  Smoke  Fall. "  80  yds.  beyond  the 
bungalow  is  a  flight  of  107  stone  steps, 
some  of  them  carved,  which  lead  to 
the  Madanpur  Temple,  surrounded  by 
a  circular  stone  enclosure.  All  round 
it  are  figures  of  Parvati,  with  one  leg 
in  her  kp.  Though  much  mutilated, 
they  are  quite  worm  a  visit.] 

673  m.  Xatni  juno.  sta.  Line  S.E. 
to  the  coal-fields  at  Umaria  37  m.,  and 
thence  to  Bilasipur  on  the  Bengal-Nag- 
pur  Ely.  (p.  76;.  '  A  line  W.  to  Saugar. 

784  m.  Sutna  (or  Satna)  sta.,  D.B. 
(B. ).  A  town  and  British  cantonment  in 
the  Bewah  state,  also  the  headquarters 
of  the  Baghelkhand  Political  Agency. 
The  Umbaila  road  branches  from  this 
point  eastward  meetingthe  Great  Dewari 
Koad  which  runs  from  Jabalpur  to  Mir- 
zapur.  Rewah  is  situated  on  this  road 
8  m.  from  the  junction.  There  is  nothing 
whatever  to  see  at  Sutna.  Near  Satna 
were  found  the  remains  of  the  Bharhut 
stupa  removed  to  Calcutta  Museum. 

788  m.  Manikpur  junc.  sta.  From 
this  place  the  Indian  midland  line  runs 
W.  to  Jhansi,  181  m.  (Rte.  5a). 

842  m.  Naini  sta.  (R.)  Hotel  Close 
by  is  the  Jail,  one  of  the  largest  in 
India,  and  admirably  managed.  2  m. 
farther  the  line  crosses  the  Jumna  by  a 
fine  bridge,  and  enters 

844  m.  Allahabad  sta.  »  The 
capital  of  the  North- West  Provinces, 
316  ft.  above  sea-level  (pop.  162,896), 
is  a  good  place  to  make  a  halt, 
'^vellers  coming  from  Bombay  or 
N<??***»  between  the  months  of 
to  'P^y.  *^d  March,  are  warned 
clothe?^^;  themselves  with  warm 
RTiH  W«nket8,  as  they  will  find 


it  cold  at  Allahabad  and  &rther  n(Hth 
Allahabad  is  situated  on  the  1.  bani 
of  the  Jumna  river,  on  the  wedge  o 
land  formed  bv  its  junction  with  th 
Gan^s,  crossed  by  2  bridges  of  boat 
on  tne  N.  side  of  the  town. 

The  Fort  stands  near  the  junction  c 
the  Ganges  and  the  Jumna.  The  (5v: 
Station,  Cantonments,  and  City  stretc 
W.  from  this  point  6  m.  The  preaei 
Fort  and  City  were  founded  by  Akbs 
in  1575  A.D.,  but  the  Aryans  possesse 
a  very  ancient  city  here  called  Prayaj 
The  Hindus  now  call  it  Prag.  It  is 
very  sacred  place  with  them,  as  the 
believe  that  Brahma  performed  h 
sacrifices  of  the  horse  here,  in  memM 
of  his  recovering  the  four  Vedas  fipoi 
Shankhasur.  The  town  was  visitc 
by  Megasthenes  in  the  3d  cent.  b.< 
and  in  the  7th  cent  A.D.  Hiou< 
Thsang,  the  Buddhist  pilgrim,  visit* 
and  described  it.  It  was  first  conquert 
by  the  Moslems  in  1194  A.D.,  und 
Shahabu-din-Ghori.  At  the  end  • 
Akbar's  reign  Prince  Salim,  afterwan 
the  Emperor  Jehangir,  governed  it  ai 
lived  in  the  fort.  Jehangir's  soi 
Ehusru,  rebelled  against  him,  bat  w 
defeated  and  put  under  the  custody 
his  brother  Ehurram,  afterwards  tj 
Emperor  Shah  Jehan.  Ehusru  di* 
in  1615,  and  the  Khusru  Bctgh  (s 
below)  contains  his  mausoleum. 
1736  Allahabad  was  taken  by  t 
Marathas,  who  held  it  till  1750,  wh 
it  was  sacked  by  the  Pathans  of  Farrc 
habad.  It  changed  masters  sevei 
times,  and  in  November  1801  it  \ 
ceded  to  the  British. 

Allahabad  was  the  seat  of  the  goTe^ 
ment  of  the  N.W.  Provinces  fn 
1884  to  1855,  when  that  was  removed 
Agra.  In  1858,  after  the  suppresd 
of  the  Mutiny,  it  again  became  1 
seat  of  the  provincial  government. 

In    May    1857    the   all-impori 
station  of  Allahabad,  with  its  mal 
ficent  Arsenal  and  strong  Fort,  wail 
spite  of  the  warnings  of  Sir  Jti 
Outram,  garrisoned  by  a  single  S^ 
regiment,  the  6th,  to  which,  on 
May  a  wing  of  the  Ferozpur  r^ui 
of  Sikhs  and,  ten  days  later,  two  ti? 
of  'Oudh  Irregular  Horse,  were  a<l 
The  officers  of  the  6th  N.I.  were 

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ROOTE  1.      ALLAfiABAB 


S7 


Bent  In  the  loyalty  of  their  corps,  but 
iirttinately  a  few  days  later  60  English 
ioyalid  soldiers  were  brought  in  from 
Qmnar.  The  history  of  the  outbreak 
i  Allahabad  is  one  of  the  saddest 
diapters  in  the  long  list  of  misfortunes 
fhich  marked  the  commencement  of 
fte  great  Mutiny  of  1867.  Fifteen 
cficere  were  murdered  by  the  Sepoys. 

It  was  an  awful  crisis.  Had  the 
£khs  in  the  Fort  fraternised  with  the 
Sepoys,  that  stronghold,  with  its  im- 
meoM  stores  of  guns  and  ammunition, 
f  onU  have  gone  to  swell  the  strength 
9f  lie  rebels ;  but  Brasyer,  who  com- 
ma]^ the  Sikhs,  drew  up  his  detach- 
meitat  the  main  gate,  and  with  him 
wen  the  guns  manned  by  the  English 
in^d  artillerymen  from  Chunar,  and 
sioiil  knots  of  English  volunteers. 
Tie  Sepoys  were  overawed,  disarmed, 
a&i  expelled  from  the  Fort.  Mean- 
f iile  Russell,  an  officer  of  the  Artillery, 
M.  laid  trains  to  the  magazines,  and 
was  prepared  to  blow  them  up  in  case 
of  a  reverse.  While  this  went  on 
in  the  Fort,  anarchy  reigned  in  the 
city--the  jail  was  broken  open,  and 
the  inrisoners,  with  the  irons  still 
ttttling  on  their  limbs,  murdered  every 
Mtian  they  met.  On  the  morning 
of  the  7th  the  Treasury  was  sacked, 
«d  the  6th  N.I.  disbanded  itself, 
«^h  man  taking  bis  plunder  to  his 
Jative  villaga  Each  Sepoy  canied  off 
3(100  or  4000  rs.,  and  many  of  them 
*re  murdered  by  the  villagers.  A 
liohammedan  Maulvi  was  put  up  as 
Wemor  of  Allahabad,  and  took  up 
^  Quarters  in  the  Khusru  Bagh. 
Oa  the  1 1th  of  June  General  Neill 
«nved  in  the  Fort,  and  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  12th  opened  fire  from  the 
^t  guns  on  the  village  of  Daraganj, 
Qd  sent  out  a  detachment  of  Fusiliers 
lui  Sikhs,  who  burned  the  village  and 
Rt  possession  of  the  bridge  of  boats. 
^  the  same  day  Major  Stephenson, 
^th  100  men  of  the  Fusiliers,  passed 
into  the  Fort.  Neill  then  scoured  the 
Bfidibouring  villages,  and  produced 
^m  a  terror  in  the  city  that  the  in- 
lubitants  deserted  en  masse,  and  the 
tfanlvi  fled  to  Cawnpore. 

The  Khmm  Bagfa,  close   to   the 
Btation,  and  E.  of  it,  is  entered  by  an 


old  archway,  nearly  60  ft.  high  and  46 
ft  deep,  overerown  with  creepers.  With- 
in the  well-kept  garden  are  3  square 
mausoleums.  That  to  the  E.  is  the  tomb 
of  Sultan  Khusru,  W.  of  it  is  a  ceno- 
taph of  Nur  Jehan,  who  was  buried  at 
Lahore,  and  farther  W.  that  of  Sahibah 
Begam,  wife  of  Jehangir.  They  are 
shiuled  by  some  fine  tamarind  trees. 

The  mausoleum  of  Khusru  has  been 
very  handsome  inside,  and  is  orna- 
mented with  many  Persian  couplets, 
and  with  paintings  of  trees  and  flowers, 
which  are  now  faded.  The  actual  grave 
is  underground,  but  above  is  a  cenotaph 
of  white  marble,  on  a  raised  platform, 
without  inscription.  To  the  rt.  and  1. 
two  of  Khusru*s  sons  wre  buried.  In 
the  gardens  are  the  reservoirs  for  the 
water  supply  of  the  town  ;  and  beyond 
the  gardens  is  the  native  quarter,  con- 
taining some  picturesque  corners.  It 
is  quite  distinct  from  Canning  Town, 
the  European  quarter,  which  since  the 
time  of  tne  Mutiny  has  been  laid  out 
amongst  a  network  of  wide  avenues. 
All  Saints'  Church,  near  the  rl^r.  sta., 
is  a  large  cruciform  building  in  the 
Romanesque  style.  Trinity  Church  is 
on  the  way  to  the  Fort,  and  a  little 
over  2  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  it.  This 
church  contains  a  tablet  which  is  valu- 
able as  a  historical  record  of  those  who 
perished  in  the  Mutiny,  and  gives  a  list 
of  their  names.  The  Boman  Catholic 
Cathedral,  in  the  Italian  style,  is  W. 
of  the  Alfred  Park. 

The  Muir  College,  to  the  N.  of  the 
Alfred  Park,  is  a  fine  building  in  the 
Saracenic  style.  It  has  its  name  from 
Sir  William  Muir,  formerly  Lt-Governor 
of  the  N.W.  Provinces,  and  author  of 
the  Life  of  Mahomet.  Close  by  is 
the  Mayo  Hally  or  Memorial,  a  fine 
structure,  with  a  tower  147  ft.  high. 
The  main  hall  is  used  for  balls  and 
amateur  theatricals. 

The  Club  is  close  to  the  Mayo  Me- 
morial, and  S.  of  it,  and  is  reached  by 
the  Thomhill  Road. 

The  Thomhill  and  Mayne  Memorial. 
— In  the  Park  is  also  the  Thomhill 
Memorial,  where  are  the  Library  and 
Museum.  In  the  Library  there  are 
between  9000  and  10,000  books  and 
pamphlets. 

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BOnnB  1.      BOMBAY  TO  OALOUTTA 


India 


The  Port  was  built  by  Akbar  in 
1575.  It  forms  a  striking  object  from 
the  river,  but  its  "  high  towers  haye 
been  cut  down,  and  the  stone  ramparts 
topped  with  turfed  parapets,  and  fronted 
with  a  sloping  glacis.  The  changes 
rendered  necessary  by  modem  military 
exigencies  have  greatly  detracted  from 
itspicturesquenessas  a  reHcof  antiquity. 
The  principal  gateway  is  capped  with  a 
dome,  and  nas  a  wide  vault  underneath 
it.  It  is  a  noble  entrance.  The  walls 
are  from  20  to  25  ft.  high.  There  is 
a  broad  moat  which  can  be  filled  with 
water  at  any  time.  Within  the  en- 
closure lie  the  officers*  quarters,  powder 
magazine,  and  barracks,  while  the  old 
palace,  greatly  disfigured  by  the  facade 
built  by  the  English,  is  now  utilised 
as  an  arsenal "  (an  order  to  enter  must 
be  obtained  from  the  Ordnance  Com- 
missary at  Allahabad).  The  central 
room  IS  what  was  the  Audience  Hall. 
"  It  is  supported  by  8  rows  of  8  columns, 
and  surrounded  by  a  deep  verandah  of 
double  columns,  with  group  of  4  at 
the  angles,  all  surmounted  by  bracket 
capitals  of  the  richest  design.  — J.  F. 

Asoka'B  Pillar.— Close  to  the  Palace 
is  the  Asoka  Pillar,  which  rises  49  ft. 
5  in.  above  ground.  It  is  of  stone, 
highly  polished,  and  is  of  much  interest 
on  account  of  its  great  antiquity.  On 
it  are  inscribed  uie  famous  Edicts  of 
Asoka  {circa  240  B.O.),  and  also  a  record 
of  Samudra  Gupta's  victories  in  the  2d 
cent,  and  one  by  Jehangir,  to  commem- 
orate his  accession  to  the  throne.  There 
are  also  minor  inscriptions,  beginning 
almost  from  the  Christian  era.  Ac- 
cording to  James  Prinsep,  the  insertion 
of  some  of  these  inscriptions  shows 
that  it  was  overthrown,  as  it  would 
have  been  impossible  to  cut  them  while 
the  pillar  was  erect  It  was  finally 
set  up  in  1888  by  the  British. 

The  Akshai  Bar  or  nnddoaying 
banian  tree. — Hiouen  Thsang,  the 
Chinese  Pilgrim  of  the  7th  cent,  in  de- 
scribing Prayag  gives  a  circumstantial 
description  of  ttie  undecaying  tree. 
In  the  midst  of  the  city,  he  says,  stood 
a  Brahmanical  temple,  to  which  the 
presentation  of  a  single  piece  of  money 
procured  as  much  merit  as  that  of  1000 
«ieces  elsewhere.     Before  the  principal 


room  of  the  temple  wasatree  surrounded 
by  the  bones  of  pilgrims  who  had  sacri- 
ficed their  lives  there. 

There  are  a  few  steps  leading  to 
a  dark  underground  passage  which  goes 
85  ft  straight  to  the  E.,  then  S.  30  ft. 
to  the  tree.  Beyond  this  Is  a  scroare 
aperture  which  the  Indians  say  leads 
to  Benares.  There  are  some  idols 
ranged  along  the  passage.  In  the  centre 
of  the  place  is  a  lingam  of  Shiva,  orer 
which  water  is  poured  by  pilgrins. 
Cunningham  in  his  Ancient  Cieography 
of  India  gives  an  interesting  sketch 
of  the  probable  changes  in  the  locality, 
and  concludes  :  '*  I  think  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  the  famous  tree  here 
described  is  the  well-known  Akshai 
Bar  or  undecaying  banian  tree,  which  is 
still  an  object  of  worship  at  Allahabad. 
This  tree  is  nowsituatea  underground, 
at  one  side  of  a  pillared  court  (or  crypt) 
which  would  appear  to  have  been  open 
formerly,  and  which  is,  I  believe,  the 
remains  of  the  temple  described  by 
Hiouen  Thsang.  The  temple  is  situated 
inside  the  Foit  E.  of  the  Ellenborough 
barracks,  and  due  N.  from  the  stone 
pillars  of  Asoka  and  Samudra  Gupta." 

As  no  tree  could  live  in  such  a  situa- 
tion, the  stump  is  no  doubt  renewed 
from  time  to  time.  Close  by  is  a  deep 
octagonal  well  flanked  by  2  vaulted 
octagonal  chambers. 

It  is  worth  while  walking  round 
the  ramparts  for  a  view  of  the  Con- 
fluence of  the  (hinges,  which  is  li 
m.  broad,  flowing  firom  the  N.,  with 
the  Jmnna,  i  m.  broad,  flowing 
from  the  W.  The  Ganges  is  of  a 
muddy  colour,  the  Jumna  is  bluer, 
and  they  meet  J  of  a  m.  beyond 
the  Fort  The  Mela,  a  religious 
fair  of  great  antiquity,  to  which 
Allahabad  probably  owes  its  origin, 
occurs  every  year  about  the  month 
of  January,  when  it  is  said  that  the 
pilgrims  have  numbered  a  million 
persons.  They  come  to  bathe  at  th< 
confluence  of  the  sacred  rivers,  and 
encamp  on  the  sandy  tongue  of  land 
between  them. 

The  Akbar  Bund  or   embankmenj 
runs  from  Dara  Ganj  N.E.  of  the  fori 
The  Old  and  New  Kotwalis  are  ^ 
S.  of  the  Ehusm  Bagh  and  the  Pa 

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ROUTB  1.      BENARBB 


39 


fay  Station.  These  are  well  built,  and 
ire  worth  looking  at. 

The  Jail  is  at  Naini,  about  2  m.  to 
&e  W.  of  the  Jumna,  after  crossing 
irer  the  bridge  (see  above). 

509  m.  Hinapur  sta.  An  important 
lell-builtcity.  Pop,  84,130.  Before  the 
opening  of  the  £ast  India  Bailway  it 
was  the  largest  mart  on  the  Ganges  for 
piin  and  cotton ;  much  of  the  trade 
18  now  diverted  elsewhere.  It  is  still 
•oted  for  carpets  and  rugs,  dyed  with 
old  Batire  vegetable  dyes,  wnich  are 
rery  permanent  Two  manufacturers 
havft  the  privilege  of  displaying  their 
patterns  on  the  r^way  platform  during 
theitoppage  of  the  train.  There  is  a 
haidsome  river  front  with  fine  ghats. 
Tin  civil  station  is  to  the  N.E.  of  the 

^Im.  Mosnil  Sarai  June.  sta.  (R.) 


Ih)in  this  point  the  traveller  should  visits  ^great  quantities  in  the  narrow  lanes 


lBEHAKB8(F<»rana8i-'Easi).:i^  Xfa^* 
Cantonnieait  sta.  is  10  m.  distant  from*' 
Xogul  Sarai  on  the  Oadh  and  Rohil- 
eand  ByL  :  at  7  m.  the  Ganges  is  crossed 
by  a  steel  bridge  nearly  }  m.  in  length, 
mere  is  a  station  called  the  Benares 
fiver-station  on  its  banks. 

Benares  (pop.  222,400),  commonly 
ealled  Kcuivj  the  Hindus,  has  be^ 
the  religious  capital  of  India  from  be- 
^nd  historical  times.  The  most  gener- 
ally accepted  derivation  of  the  name, 
Tarajictsi  is  &om  the  streams  Yarana 
twdemBama-  )and  Asior  Ashi(riiw^). 
Ihe  former,  a  river  of  some  size  on  the 
H.  and  E.  of  the  city;  the  latter,  a 
rivulet  now  embraced  within  its  area. 

The  site  of  Benares  has  often  been 
iiianged,  but  there  is  good  groimd  for 
^posing  that  the  first  city  was  built 
It  Samath.  The  past  history  of  this, 
«ie  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in  India, 
•  involved  in  obscurity.  It  is,  how- 
wer,  certain  that  it  was  a  most  flourish- 
ke  and  important  place  6  centuries 
inore  the  Christian  era,  for  Sakya 
koni,  who  was  bom  about  557  b.o., 
^  died  in  478  b.c.,  came  to  it  from 
iiya  to  establish  his  religion,  which 
h  would  not  have  done  had  it  not  been 
ften  a  great  centre.  Many  of  the  most 
llportant  writers  of  the  Hindus  were 
fct  heard  of  at  Benares.  Of  inter- 
mediate events  little  is  known,  but  we 


learn  from  Husain  Nizami's  history 
that  in  1194  A.D.  Jaychand,  Ri^ah  Ok 
Benares,  "whose  army  was  countless  as 
the  sand,"  was  defeated  and  killed  by 
Eutb-ud-din,  the  general  of  Shahab- 
ud-din  Ghori.  Kutb  destroyed  1000 
temples,  and  built  mosques  on  their 
sites.  From  that  date  Benares  was 
governed  by  the  Moslems,  and  became 
part  of  the  province  of  Allahabad.  It 
IS  due  to  the  iconoclastic  spirit  of  the 
conquerors  that  hardly  a  single  build- 
ing can  be  found  in  Benares  which 
dates  beyond  the  time  of  Akbar. 

The  ornamental  Brass-Work  which 
is  met  with  all  over  the  world  is  a 
spedalitd  of  Benares  ;  but  the  modem 
^ork  is  far  less  carefully  executed  than 
,the  old,  which  is  now  difficult  to  pro- 
cure. Small  idols  and  other  images  in 
brass  and  other  materials  are  mi^e  in 


around  the  golden  temple. 

Shawls,  silks,  and  embroideries 
may  also  be  purchased  here. 

Asi^he  finest  view  of  Benares  is 
obtained  from  the  river  Ganges,  the 
banks' of  which  are  bordered  by  Ohats, 
or  flights  of  stotie  steps,  descending  to 
the  water  from  the  most  famous  bmld- 
in^  in  the  dty,  the  traveller  will  do 
well  to  spend  some  time  in  a .  boat, 
passing  along  the  whole  of  the  river 
frontage,  where,  in  the  morning  especi- 
ally, he  will  see  crowds  of  the  people 
coming  down  to  bathe  and  drink  the 
water  of  the  sacred  river. 

For  those  who  are  pressed  for  time,  it 
vn)l  be  sufficient  to  see  the  Observatory, 
the  Monkey  Temple,  and  the  whole 
length  of  the  Ghats,  and  disembark  at 
the  Panchganga  to  see  the  Golden 
Temple.     The  rest  may  be  omitted. 

Particulars  regarding  these  Ghats  and 
the  buildings  near  them  are  given  be- 
low. The  river  and  native  town  are 
nearly  2  m.  from  the 

Cantonment,  where  a  detachment  of 
Europeans  and  a  native  regiment  are 
stationed.  Near  the  Hotel  is  St.  Mary's 
Church,  with  some  old  tombs,  and  the 
Benares  Gtovemment  CoUeg^e,  a  building 
in  the  Perpendicular  style,  called  Queen's 
college.  It  contains  an  Archnological 
Museum. 

To  the   N.    of   the   College   is  an 

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ROUTE  1.      BOMBAT  TO  CAIXJUTTA 


India 


ancient  monolith,  81^  ft  hkh,  with 
an  English  inscription  attached.  It 
wasfonndnearGhazi}>Tir.  On  the  ohelisk 
there  is  an  inscription  in  the  Gupta 
character.  To  the  E.  of  the  grounds 
are  carved  stones  brought  from  Samath, 
Bakariya  Ennd,  and  other  places. 

Should  the  trayeller  desire  to  go 
first  to  the  Raj  Ghat,  near  the  Railway 
Bridge,  by  the  Grand  Trunk  road,  he  will 
pass  the  Naadeshwar  Kothi,  a  residence 
of  the  Maharaja  of  Benares.  In  this 
house,  Mr.  Davis,  Judge  and  Magistrate 
of  Benares,  was  attacked  by  tne  fol- 
lowers of  Vazir  *Ali,  the  deposed  Nawab 
of  Oudh,  who  had  just  killed  Mr. 
Cherry,  the  British  Resident,  on  the 
14th  of  January  1799.  Mr.  Davis  sent 
his  wife  and  two  children  on  to  the  roof, 
and,  with  a  spear,  placed  himself  at  the 
top  of  the  staircase  leading  to  it,  where 
he  so  successfully  defended  himself  that 
his  assailants  contented  themselves  with 
destroying  the  furniture,  and  watching 
their  opportunity.  Vazir  'Ali  then 
sent  for  materials  to  fire  the  house,  but 
Mr.  Davis  was  rescued  by  the  arrival 
of  a  regiment  of  cavalry.  The  house 
at  present  is  lent  by  the  Maharaja  to 
persons  of  rank  who  visit  Benares. 
The  furniture  and  pictures  seem  to  be 
of  Mr.  Davis's  time.  The  garden  is 
pretty. 

The  Church  KiBaion  House  at  Sigra 
is  IJ  m.  to  the  W.  St.  Paul's 
Church  is  1  m.  due  S.  of  the  rly. 
Stat.,  and  was  finished  in  1847. 
There  is  an  Orphanage  for  girls  and 
boys  attached,  also  Normal  and  Indus- 
trial Schools  for  Women.  Thence  the 
traveller  can  drive  IJ  m.  to  the  Maha- 
raja  of   Vijayanagram's   Palace    at 


Belipur.  Permission  must  be  obtained 
to  see  the  house  from  the  agent  of  the 
Maharaja.  There  is  a  good  view  from 
the  terraced  roof  of  the  palace  over  the 
Ganges,  in  the  direction  of  AurangziVs 
mosque.  The  Gk>lden  Temple  is  seen 
to  the  E.N.E.  Close  to  the  palace  on 
the  W.  are  several  Jain  Temples. 

Native  Town. 

The  Durga  Temple  is  sometimes 
called  the  Monkey  Temple  by  European, 
from  the  myriads  of  monkeys  which 
inhabit  the  laige  trees  near  it.  Tlie 
temple  is  about  three-fifths  of  a  mile  8. 
of  the  y^jayanagram  Palace.  It  is 
stained  rea  with  ochre,  and  it  stands 
in  a  quadrangle  surrounded  by  high 
walls.  In  front  of  the  principal  entrance 
is  the  band  room,  where  the  priests 
beat  a  large  drum  three  times  a  day. 
The  central  portion  is  supported  by 
twelve  curiously  carved  pulars,  on  a 
platform  raised  4  ft.  from  the  ground. 
The  doors  are  plated  with  brass,  and 
there  are  two  bells.  The  temple  and 
the  fine  tank  adjoining  were  constmoted 
by  the  Rani  of  Natre  in  the  last  cen- 
tury. As  Durga  is  the  terrific  form 
of  Shiva's  wife,  and  is  said  to  delist 
in  destruction,  bloody  sacrifices  are 
offered  to  her,  and  goat's  blood  may  be 
seen  sprinkled  about. 

From  this  temple  the  traveller  may 
proceed  to  the  GHiats,  embarking  at 
the  Han  Uandir  Ghat,  and  rowing 
slowly  past  in  front  of  them.  The 
Ghats  are  here  given  in  succession 
from  the  W.  proceeding  down  stream. 
A  detailed  description  follows  the 
list 


Table  op  Ghats  and  Buildikos  adjoining  them 


Names  of  the  Qhkpi  or  flights  of  steps 
trom  S.  to  N. 


1.  Aihi  Ghi^  or  Asi  Sangam  Ghdj; 


2.  lAliMisrGhitorBachhr^Ghit. 
8.  Tulsi  Qhit 

4.  R&o  BOdb  Gbit . 

5.  Akrol  dh&t^ 

6.  BhiviU  Qh4t      .... 

7.  Dan4i  Gh4t. 
-  ifih 


8.  HanomAn  Qhi^. 


Names  of  the  Bnildings  adjacent  to 
each  GhAf* 


1.  The  Monastery  of  Tulsi  Das,  Jagannith 
Tbmple  to  S. ;  Dturgi  Kond  or  Monkey 
Temple  to  W. 

8.  Enm  Chatr  Temple. 
4.  Image  of  Bhim. 


0.  Eh&li  Ma^l,  Prince  of  Dihll's  hooea. 


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ttOOtk  1.      BKltAltfiB 


41 


Nunes  of  the  6h4t»  or  flights  of  steps 

Names  of  the  Baildines  adjacent  to 
each  Ghil. 

Dram  S.  to  N. 

».  SmasUbiorllMhiaGhi^        .       .       . 

9.  The  Cremation  Ground. 

».  liUOhi^ 

U.  K«d4r  Gh4t 

It  ChankorOhankiOhit     .       .        .       . 

11.  KedimAth  Temple. 

12.  Mansarovar,  a  tank  smronnded  by  shrines. 

».  Chfttr  Gh4(  or  lUji  Ghi$ 

IS.  The  Ghatror  Beat-honse  of  Bi^a  Amfita 

U.  SomeshwGhAI^ 

BAo. 

15.  Puide  GhA^ 

16.  Kand  QU%. 

17.  ChatrGhA^ 

18.  Bengali  Toli  Gfait. 

1».  OoraPantGhi^ 

».  ChaoaathlGhAI 

n.  Uni  Ghi^ 

12.  ftmahi  Gh&l 

20.  Temple  of  the  Goddess  Chansathi. 

21.  Bnilt  by  the  Bind  of  Oodeypur. 

22.  A  fine  bonding  at  head  of  stairs. 

IS.  itelya  BAi'8  Oh^ 

U.ttUGM^ 

25.  Bisashwamedh  GhAt 

26.  The  Observatory. 

26.  If ahalla  Affast  Knnd  Hiest  DOint  for  em- 

36.  lin  Mnndir  GhAt 

ST.JBuimTsGhA^ 

st^^m     ^■^•••^^••■w     "■qvw^w     m^^m^k%^   ^»^^^«vv     ^|r^^»»»v    a^^*      ^'■■* 

barking). 

ULlirGhAt. 
».UlitsGh&^ 

MLNipAlGhit 

nHlBAinQm- 

and  Holy  Well. 

U,  ]U«ikarapika  QhA^ 

83.  Temple  of  Tdrkeshwara,  Well  of  Mani- 

karanikA.    Cremation  Ground. 

R  Sfandia's  Ghit      .               .... 
S.  RlifmkaGhit. 

84.  Broken  Wall. 

3«.  Gapesh  GhA^. 

S7.  Ghosla  Gh&t. 

S8.BiiiiGhi| 

88.  Temple  ef  B&m. 

89.  Connn^Mie  of  the  DhantanAnA.  Jarandn* 

Ada,  Eir^dnada,  Saraswati,  and  Ganga, 

the  first  four  undei*ground.     Aurang- 

zib's  Mosque,  called  H&dhu   DAs  ki 

peorhi. 

«.  Dnisd  or  EAli  Gh^t^ 
.-fl.  Binda  MAdhaya  Ghit. 

CGauGhAt 

42.  Stone  figure  of  a  cow. 

a.TraoehaDaGba^(orPilpUlaTirth)  .        . 

48.  Houses  of  the  Dihli  ftmfly  and  Cemetery 

tt.Tiliao41aGhi^ 

ofKakhdum^dhib 

&  Haitra  Ghdii. 

4k  Piahlid  Gh&(. 

«.  lUidGfail 

47.  Bridge  of  Boats. 

The  Aslii  Ghat  is  one  of  the  five  cele- 
kited  places  of  pilgrimage  in  Benares. 
Ike  diannel  of  the  Ashi,  which  here 
Ills  into  the  Gan^s,  is  dry  during  the 
0^  weather.  It  is  about  40  ft.  broad. 
Sie  steps  at  this  Ghat  are  a  good  deal 
koken,  and  though  one  of  the  most 
iMmd,  it  is  certainly  not  one  of  the 
kndsomeet  Ghats.  This  is  the  nearest 
fihat  from  which  to  cross  to  Bamnagar, 
lla  palace  of  the  Maharaja  of  Benares. 
Ihe  next  Ghat  is  the  Bao^hraj  or  Lola 
Mar  OkaL  Here  the  Jains  have  built 
tao  temples,  which  stand  on  the  bank 
flftheGiaiges.  At  the  K.  end  of  Tmlsi 
fltet,  whidi  comes  next,  huge  masses 
d  the  bidlding  have  fallen,  and  lie  on 


the  river's  edge.  At  Bao  Sahib  Ohat 
is  a  huge  recumbent  image  of  Bhim, 
which  is  said  to  be  annually  washed 
away  and  restored.  The  traveller  will 
now  pass  the  Akrul  Ghat  and  come  to 
the  Shivala  Ohat.  Here  stands  the 
fort  in  which  Chait  Sing  resided.  It 
is  a  handsome  building,  and  appears  as 
fresh  as  when  first  constructed.  In 
the  upper  imrt  of  the  N.  wall  are  five 
small  windows  in  a  row,  from  one  of 
which  Chait  Sing  made  his  escape, 
when  he  fled  from  Warren  Hastings  in 
1781.  It  is  now  called  the  Khali 
Mahal,  or  **  empty  palace,"  and  be- 
longs to  Government.  In  this  vast 
building  two  companies  of  Sepoys  and 

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R0X7TB  1.      BOMB  AT  ^TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


three  officers,  who  were  sent  by  Hastings 
to  arrest  Ohait  Sing,  were  massacred  by 
a  mob,  owing  to  the  soldiers  having 
come  without  their  ammunition.  When 
fresh  troops  reached  the  palace,  Ohait 
Sing  had  fled.  The  Shivala  Ghat  is  one 
of  tne  finest  and  most  crowded  of  the 
Ghats.  Part  of  it  is  assigned  to  the 
religious  ascetics  called  Gosains.  The 
next  is  the  Dandi  Ohat,  and  is  devoted 
to  the  staff- bearing  ascetics  called 
Dandi  Pants.  It  is  also  very  large. 
The  Hannmaa  Ohat,  which  comes  next, 
is  large  and  generally  crowded.  At  the 
Sma&an  Ohat,  jrvres  for  cremation  may 
be  seen  being  built,  while  bodies  wrapt 
up  in  white  or  red  cloths  lie  with  their 
feet  in  the  Ganges  ready  to  be  burned. 
Passing  the  Lali  Ghat,  the  Kedar 
Ohat,  which  comes  next,  deserves  at- 
tention. According  to  the  religious 
books  of  the  Hindus,  the  city  is  divided 
into  three  great  portions — Benares, 
Eashi,  from  whence  the  popular  name, 
and  Eedar.  Eedar  is  a  name  of  Shiva, 
but  it  also  signifies  a  mountain,  and 
especially  a  part  of  the  Himalayan 
mountains,  of  which  Shiva  is  the  lord, 
hence  called  Eedamath.  His  temple, 
or  rather  the  top  of  it,  may  be  seen 
from  the  river  at  this  Ghat.  It  is 
much  resorted  to  by  the  Bengali  and 
Tailangi  ^p.  of  the  city.  The  temple 
is  a  spacious  building,  the  centre  of 
which  is  supposed  to  be  the  place  where 
Eedamath  dwells.  At  the  four  comers 
are  Shivalas,  with  cupolas.  Here  are 
two  brass  figures,  hidden  by  a  cloth, 
which  is  removed  on  payment  of  a  fee. 
The  walls  and  pillars  are  painted  red 
or  white.  There  are  two  large  black 
figures,  which  represent  the  dwarpals, 
or  janitors ;  each  has  four  hands  holding 
a  trident,  a  flower,  a  club,  and  the  fourth 
empty,  to  push  away  intraders.  At 
the  bottom  of  the  Ghat  is  a  well  called 
the  Gauri  Eund,  or  "weU  of  Gauri," 
Shiva's  wife,  the  waters  of  which  arc 
said  to  be  efficacious  in  curing  fevers, 
dysentery,  etc.  To  the  W.  at  600  yds. 
is  the  Mansarovar  tank,  round  which 
are  60  shrines.  Manas  or  Mansarovar 
is  a  fabulous  tank  in:  the  Himalayan 
mountains,  near  Eailas,  or  Shiva's 
heaven-  Near  the  tank  at  Benares  so 
called  IB  a  stone  4^  ft.  high,  and  16J  ft. 


in  periphery,  which  is  said  to  grow  daily 
to  the  extent  of  a  sesamum  seed.  In  a 
street  to  the  £.  of  the  tank  are  figures  of 
Balkrishna,  or  the  infant  Erishna,  and 
Chatrbhig  or  Vishnu.  Close  by  is  a 
Shivala,  built  by  Bajah  Man  Sing,  and 
called  Maneshwar.  At  the  Chavki 
Ohat  is  the  place  where  serpents  are 
worshipped.  Here,  under  a  pippitl 
tree,  are  many  idols  and  figoies  of 
snakes.  In  a  street  close  by,  called 
Eewal,  is  a  figure  of  Durga  with  ten 
arms. 

The  next  Ghat,  where  the  stairs 
ascend  into  a  large  house  or  sarai  built 
by  Amrit  Rao  for  travellers,  is  the  Chair 
or  Bajah  Ohat.  On  leaving  it  tiie 
traveller  reaches  the  Semeshwar  Ghat 
so  called  from  the  adjacent  temple  of 
the  moon,  Sorna  being  the  *'moon, '  and 
lahvjar  "lord."  At  this  Ghat  every 
kind  of  disease  is  supposed  to  be  healed 
Close  by  is  an  alley,  in  which  is  the 
shrine  of  Barahan  Devi,  a  female 
.^Isculapius,  who  is  worshipped  in  the 
morning,  and  is  supposed  to  cure 
swelled  hands  and  feet.  From  Chanki 
to  Pande  Ghat  the  water  is  very  dirty, 
owing  to  a  lar^e  drain,  which  pours  the 
filth  of  the  city  into  this  part  of  the 
Ganges.  There  is  nothing  particular 
to  be  seen  at  the  next  four  Ghats,  but 
the  one  after  them,  Chaiuathi  Ohat, 
is  one  of  the  most  ancient  at  Benares. 
Here,  in  a  narrow  lane,  is  a  temple  to 
the  goddess  Chausathi.  Chausathi 
signifies  "sixty-four."  The  Bana  Ohat, 
bmlt  by  the  Maha  Rana  of  Oodeypnr, 
is  not  much  frequented  by  Hindus. 
It  is  the  special  place  for  tne  bathing 
of  the  Mohammedans.  The  Mnnahi 
Ohat  is  the  most  picturesque  of  all  the 
Ghats  at  Benares.  It  was  built  by 
Munshi  Shri  Dhar,  Diwan  of  the  B^ah 
of  Nagpur.  Notice  the  building  at  the 
top  of  the  stair.  Of  the  two  next  Ghats 
nothine  particular  is  to  be  said.  Sitla 
Ghat  signifies  "small-pox  Ghat,"  over 
which  a  Hindu  goddess  presides. 

Dasashwamedh  Ohat  is  one  of  th< 
five  celebrated  places  of  pilgrimage  i] 
Benares.  It  is  specially  throngen 
during  eclipses.  Here  Brahma  is  sai^ 
to  have  offered  in  sacrifice  ten  hoisei 
and  to  have  made  the  place  eqtud  ii 
merit  to  Allahabad. 

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Tlie  traveller  may  disembark  here 
md  walk  to  the  Man  Mandir  Ohat  to 
see  the  Observatory.  This  lofty  build- 
ing giyes  a  fine  appearance  to  tne  Ghat, 
md  commands  a  beautiful  yiew  of  the 
river.  It  was  erected  by  Rsgah Jay- 
sing,  the  founder  of  Jeypore  in 
Kajpatana,  who  succeeded  the  Rajas 
of  imber  in  1693.  Chosen  by  Mu- 
hammad Shah  to  reform  the  calendar, 
his  astronomical  observations  were 
fornmlated  in  tables,  which  corrected 
those  of  De  la  Hire.  He  built  five 
observatories  —  at  Delhi,  Benares, 
Miittra,  Ujjain,  and  Jeypore.  On 
entering  the  Observatory  the  first  in- 
stnment  seen  is  the  Bhittiyantra,  or 
"  «aral  quadrant."  It  is  a  wall  11  ft. 
h^  and  9  fL  1^  in.  broad,  in  the  plane 
of  the  meridian ;  by  this  are  ascer- 
tiined  the  sun's  altitude  and  zenith 
distance,  and  its  greatest  declination, 
and  hence  the  latitude.  Then  come  two 
Urge  circles,  one  of  stone  and  the  other 
of  cement,  and  a  stone  square,  used, 
perhaps,  for  ascertaining  the  shadow  of 
the  gnomon  and  the  degrees  of  azimuth. 
^ext  the  Yantrasamant  will  be  seen, 
the  wall  of  which  is  36  ft.  long  and  4^ 
ft  broad,  and  is  set  in  the  plane  of  the 
meridian.  One  end  is  6  ft  4 J  in.  high, 
tod  the  other  22  ft  3^  in.,  and  it 
slopes  gradually  up,  so  as  to  point  to 
the  North  Pole.  By  this,  the  distance 
from  the  meridian,  the  declination  of 
my  planet  or  star  and  of  the  sun,  and 
&e  riffht  ascension  of  a  star  are  cal- 
mlated.  There  are  here  a  double 
nural  quadrant,  an  equinoctial  circle 
•f  stone,  and  another  Yantrasamant. 
Cloee  by  is  the  Ghakrayantra,  between 
tiro  walls,  used  for  finding  the  de- 
dination  of  a  planet  or  star  ;  and  near 
it  a  Digansayantra,  to  find  the  degrees 
•f  azimuth  of  a  planet  or  star. 

At  Bhairaya  Ghat  is  a  Shivala,  as 
Bhairava  is  only  a  terrific  form  of 
Shiva.  The  idol  here  is  said  to  be  the 
Kotwal,  or  magistrate  of  the  city, 
vho  rides  about  on  an  invisible  dog. 
There  is  an  image  of  a  dog  close  to  the 
ilol,  and  the  confectioners  near  sell 
kiages  of  dogs  made  of  sugar,  which 
tre  offered  to  it  A  Brahman  waves  a 
fiin  of  peacock's  feathers  over  visitors 


to  protect  them  from  eyil  spirits,  and 
they  in  return  must  drop  offerings 
into  the  cocoa-nut  shell  he  holds.  The 
idol  ia  of  stone,  with  a  face  of  silver, 
and  four  hands.  The  temple  was 
built  in  1825  by  Eajah  Rao  of  Poena. 
There  are  several  other  idols,  and 
among  them  one  of  Sitla,  goddess  of 
smallpox,  the  offerings  at  which  are 
taken  by  men  of  the  gardener  caste, 
as  they  are  the  professional  in- 
oculators  of  India.  At  this  place 
dogs  are  daily  fed  by  a  Gosain,  who 
has  servants  under  him,  who  make  up 
cakes  of  wheat,  barley,  or  jowari  flour. 
On  festivals  the  dogs  have  cakes  of 
wheaten  flour,  butter,  and  sugar.  The 
traveller  will  come  next  to  the  Mir 
Ghat^  which  was  built  by  Rustam'  Ali 
Ehan,  Nazim  of  Benares.  It  now  be- 
longs to  the  Maharaja  of  Benares. 
From  this  the  Nipalese  Temple  is  seen, 
a  picturesque  object,  but  disfigured  by 
indecent  carvings.  It  does  not  re- 
semble in  the  least  the  Hindu  temples. 
It  is  popularly  called  the  Nipali 
Kharpa.  Up  a  flight  of  steps  behind 
this  temple  is  a  Wrestler's  College. 
The  manager  welcomes  visitors,  and 
the  performance  of  his  pupils  is  curious 
and  interesting. 

The  famous  Gtolden  Temple  (see 
below)  is  between  this  Ghat  and  the 
Jal  Sain  Ghat. 

The  Kayastli  Ohat  is  of  no  im- 
pori^ance.  The  ManifcaranlTra  Ohat, 
one  of  the  five  celebrated  places  of 
Hindu  pilgrimage  in  Benares,  is  con- 
sidered the  most  sacred  of  all  the 
Ghats,  and  in  November  is  visited 
by  multitudes  of  pilgrims.  It  is  also 
at  the  central  point  of  the  city,  so 
that  if  a  line  were  drawn  from  it 
to  the  W.,  it  would  divide  Benares 
into  two  portions  N.  and  S.  Just 
above  the  flight  of  step  is  the  Mani- 
karamka  Well,  and  between  it  and 
the  steps  is  the  temple  of  Tarkesh- 
wara.  Below  this  temple  the  bodies 
of  Hindus  are  burned.  The  well  has 
its  name  from  Mcmi,  "a  jewel,"  and 
Kcmuby  "the  ear,"  Devi  or  Mahadeo 
having  dropped  an  ear-ring  into  it. 
During  the  eclipse  of  the  sun  it 
is  visited  by  millions  of  pilgrims. 
The  well,  or,  more  properly,  tank,  is 

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ftOtJTB  1.      BOMBAY  IW)  OAtiCtTTTA 


India 


85  ft  sq.,  and  stone  steps  lead  down  to 
the  water.  Offerings  of  the  Bel  tree, 
flowers,  milk,  sandaf-wood,  sweetmeats, 
and  water  are  thrown  into  it ;  and  from 
the  putrefaction  of  these  a  stench  arises 
eautu  to  that  which  ascends  from  the 
Well  of  Knowledge.  It  may  he  men- 
tioned that  at  the  Cremation  Ground 
helow  the  fire  must  he  brought  from 
the  house  of  a  Domra,  a  man  of  very 
low  caste.  The  Domra  who  has  the 
monopoly  of  giving  fire  for  cremation 
is  very  wealthy,  as  fees  are  demanded 
and  given  up  to  1000  rs.  At  Tarkesh- 
wara  the  idol  is  kept  in  a  reservoir  of 
water.  At  this  Ghat  is  the  Charana- 
paduka,  a  round  slab  projecting  slightly 
from  the  pavement,  on  which  stands  a 
p^estal  of  stone :  on  its  marble  top  are 
2  imprints,  said  to  have  been  made  by 
the  feet  of  Vishnu.  At  the  second 
flight  of  steps  of  this  Ghat  is  a  temple 
to  Siddha  Vinayak,  or  Ganesh.  The 
idol  has  three  eyes,  is  painted  red,  and 
has  a  silver  scalp,  and  an  elephant's 
trunk  covered  with  a  bib,  which 
resembles  a  barber's  cloth  wrapped 
about  a  man  when  he  is  about  to  be 
shaved.  At  the  feet  of  the  image  is 
the  figure  of  a  rat,  which  is  the  Yahana 
or  **  vehicle  "  of  Ganesh. 

The  traveller  will  now  proceed  to 
Sindi&'s  Qhat,  which  is  curious  from 
the  fact  that  its  massive  structure  has 
sunk  several  feet,  and  is  still  gradually 
sinking.  The  temple  on  the  left  of  the 
S.  turret  is  rent  from  top  to  bottom, 
as  are  the  stairs  leading  to  the  curtain, 
between  the  turrets.  It  was  built  by 
Baiza  Bai,  who  constructed  the  colon- 
nade round  the  Well  of  Knowledge, 
but  was  left  unfinished.  Passing  over 
the  next  two  Ghats,  the  traveller  will 
come  to  the  Ohosla  Ghat,  which  was 
built  by  the  Nagpur  Raja,  and  is  very 
massive  and  h^dsome.  Bam  Ohat 
comes  next,  and  is  much  frequented 
by  Marathas.  On  the  steps  is  a  very 
sacred  temple. 

The  next  is  the  Panchganga  Ohat, 
beneath  which  5  rivers  are  supposed 
to  meet.  Above  it  rises  Aurangzib's 
mosque, called  in  maps  'Hhe  Minarets." 
The  view  from  the  top  of  the  minarets 
(160  ft  high)  of  the  town  beneath  is 
very  striking. 


Passing  the  Durga  Ghat,  the  trardler 
will  come  next  to  the  Bindu  Hadhara 
Ohat,  which  was  formerly  dedicated  to 
Madhava  or  Krishna,  whose  temple 
was  rased  by  Aurangzib.  The  next 
Ghat  is  the  Gau  Ohat,  so  called  from 
the  number  of  cows  that  resort  to  it, 
and  also  from  the  stone  figure  of  a  oem 
there. 

The  Trilochaaa  Ghat,  also  called  tke 
Pilpilla  Tirth,  will  next  be  reached. 
The  pilgrim  bathes  in  the  Ganges  at 
this  Ghat,  and  then  proceeds  to  ^ 
Panchganga,  and  there  bathes  again. 
There  are  two  turrets  at  the  TrilocnaBa 
Ghat,  and  the  water  between  them 
possesses  a  special  sanctity.  Passine 
the  three  next  Ghats  the  traveller  will 
arrive  at  the  Baj  Ghat  near  the  Bridge. 
On  the  morning  of  the  1st  May  1850  a 
terrific  explosion  took  place  here,  owing 
to  a  magazine  fleet  blowing  up,  when 
lying  at  this  Ghat  ALL  the  buildings 
near  were  shattered.  At  the  junction 
of  the  Ganges  and  the  Bama  is  a  piece 
of  high  ground  which  in  the  Mutiny 
was  strongly  fortified,  and  has  ever 
since  been  called  the  Baj  Ghat  Fort 

The  Golden  Temple  is  dedicated  to 
Bisheshwar,  the  Poison  God,  or  Shiva — 
a  word  compounded  of  Fish,  "poison," 
and  Ishioar,  **god,"  because  Shiva 
swallowed  the  poison  when  the  gods 
and  demons  churned  the  ocean.  The 
temple  is  in  a  roofed  quadrangle,  above 
which  rises  the  tower.  At  each  comer 
is  a  dome,  and  at  the  S.E.  a  Shivala. 
The  temple  is  surrounded  by  very  nar- 
row crowded  streets.  Opposite  the  en- 
trance, with  its  finely  wrought  brass 
doors,  is  a  shop  where  flowers  are  sold 
for  offerings.  The  visitor  may  enter  the 
shop  and  ascend  to  the  story  above, 
which  is  on  a  level  with  the  three 
towers  of  the  temple.  The  red  conical  ^ 
tower  L  is  that  of  Mahadeo's  temple  ; 
next  to  it  is  a  gilt  dome,  and  on  the 
rt  is  the  gilt  tower  of  Bisheshwar's 
temple.  The  three  are  in  a  row  in  the 
centre  of  the  quadrangle,  which  they 

1  These  conical  towers,  almost  oniTersal  in 
Hindu  temples,  are  called  Siknu  or  VimanaKs. 
The  origin  of  their  peculiar  form  is  unknown. 


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BOUTB  1.       BENARES 


45 


ilmort  fill  up.  They  are  covered  with 
^Id  plates,  over  plates  of  copper  which 
eoYertbestones.  The  expose  of  Riding 
fas  defrayed  by  Maharaja  RaDJit  Sing 
of  lihore.  The  temple  of  Bisheshwar 
is  51  ft  high.  Between  it  and  the 
temple  of  Mfuiadeo  hang  nine  bells  from 
I  carred  stone  framewonc  One  of  these, 
md  the  most  elegant,  was  presented  by 
the  Maharaja  of  Nipal.  The  temple 
of  Mahadeo  was  built  by  Ahalya  Bai, 
klakrana  of  Indore.  Outside  the  en- 
cloore,  and  to  the  K.  of  it,  is  the  Court 
of  lahadeo,  where  on  a  platform  are  a 
niaber  of  lingams,  and  many  small 
idii  are  built  into  the  wall.  Tliey  are 
thflffht  to  have  belonged  to  the  old 
tenle  of  Bisheshwar,  wmch  stood  N.W. 
of  me  present  one,  and  was  destroyed 
bf  Aurangzib.  Remains  of  this  temple 
nstill  to  be  seen,  and  form  part  of  a 
itosque  which  Aurangzib  built,  where 
tiie  old  temple  stood  (see  below). 

In  the  quadrangle  between  the 
nosQue  and  the  Temple  of  Bishesh- 
tar  18  the  famous  Juan  Kap,  "  Well 
rf  Knowledge,"  where  the  Hindus 
sappoee  that  Shiva  resides.  The  quad- 
langle  itself  is  unpleasant,  but  in  that 
respect  falls  short  of  the  well,  which 
is  absolutely  fetid,  from  the  decaying 
lowers  thrown  into  it,  notwithstanding 
^t  it  has  a  grating  over  it,  overspread 
Tith  a  cloth ;  for  in  this  doth  there 
ire  large  gaps,  and  flowers  are  continu- 
illy  falling  throueh  them.  The 
Totaries  also  throw  down  water ;  and 
» they  are  not  at  all  particular  how 
4ey  throw  it,  they  make  the  pave- 
fieat  one  vast  puddle,  and  besprinkle 
fteir  fellow-worshippers  all  over,  so 
that  the  clothes  of  many  of  them  are 
ii  a  dripping  state.  It  is  said  that 
then  the  old  temple  of  Bisheshwar  was 
destroyed,  a  priest  threw  the  idol  into 
this  well,  hence  its  uncommon  sanctity. 
the  platform  is  thronged  by  men  and 
t(Hnen,  and  the  horrible  din  of  gones 
Ad  voices  deafens  the  visitor.  Crowds 
rf  fresh  pilgrims  arrive  incessantly  ; 
Ad  as  numbers  of  cows  are  mixed  up 
^  the  throng,  and  must  be  treated 
flth  great  consideration,  the  jostling 
^  something  terrific.  The  roof  and 
•loimade  of  this  quadrangle  were  built 
ia  1828,  by  Baiza  Bai,  widow  of  Daulat 


Rao  Sindia.  To  the  E.  of  the 
colonnade  is  a  stone  Nandi,  given  by 
the  Raja  of  Nipal,  7  ft.  high.  On  the 
S.  side  of  the  colonnade  is  an  iron 
palisade,  within  which  is  a  shrine 
of  white  marble,  and  one  of  white 
stone,  and  a  carved  stone  support, 
from  which  hangs  a  bell.  Around  are 
many  richly  carved  small  temples, 
particularly  one  to  the  S.  of  Bishesh- 
war, and  the  gateways  of  the  court- 
yard are  similarly  carved,  and  small 
gilded  spires  add  to  the  picturesqueness 
of  the  scene. 

Auraogiib'B  Moiqae,  *' whose  tall 
and  graceful  minarets  still  form  one 
of  the  most  prominent  features  in 
every  view  of  the  city"  (Fergusson), 
is  otherwise  of  no  great  magnificence. 
This  mosque,  built  to  insult  the  Hindus 
in  one  oi  their  most  sacred  localities, 
has  led  to  much  animosity  between 
them  and  the  Moslems.  The  Hindus 
claim  the  courtyard  between  the  mosque 
and  the  wall,  and  will  not  allow  the 
Moslems  to  enter  by  the  front  of  the 
mosque,  but  only  on  one  side.  The 
Moslems  built  a  gateway  in  front  of 
the  mosque,  which  still  stands,  but  no 
Moslem  can  enter  by  it,  and  the  space 
between  the  pillars  has  been  built  up. 
A  Fieiu  religiosa  tree  overshadows  the 
gateway  and  the  road,  but  the  Hindus 
will  not  suffer  the  Moslems  to  touch  a 
leaf  of  it.  The  British  Government 
acts  as  trustee  of  the  mosque,  and 
allows  certain  monevs  belonging  to  it 
to  be  paid  into  the  Treasury,  and  to  be 
periodically  made  over  for  the  benefit 
of  the  trust.  During  the  period  of 
nearly  two  centuries  since  the  mosque 
was  built  not  a  stone  has  been  loosened. 
It  was  constructed  on  the  site  of  a 
magnificent  temple  of  Madhava,  or 
Krishna.  A  small  number  of  the 
faithful  assemble  here  on  Fridays, 
otherwise  it  is  deserted. 

The  traveller  can  ascend  the  central 
staircase,  which  leads  to  the  roof,  by  t^o 
most  precipitous  flights  of  steps.  There 
are  ropes  on  either  side.  The  view  from 
the  minarets  is  picturesque. 

Just  outside  the  Golden  Temple  is 
the  Shrine  of  Sanichar,  or  Sham,  the 
planet    Saturn    or   its    regent      The 


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46 


BOUTS  1.      BOMBAY  TO  OAIiOUTTA 


India 


imagd  is  a  round  silyer  disc,  firom  which 
hangs    an    apron,    or   cloth,    which 

Erevents  one  remarking  that  it  is  a 
ead  without  a  hody.  A  garland 
hangs  from  either  ear,  and  a  canopy  is 
spread  above.  A  few  steps  beyond 
ttiis  is  the  Temple  of  Annapuma,  a 
goddess  whose  name  is  compounded 
of-4w7ia,  **  food,  "and  Pwma,  * 'who  is 
filled."  She  is  supposed  to  have  express 
orders  from  Bisneshwar  to  feed  the 
inhabitants  of  Benares.  In  front  of 
this  temple  are  a  number  of  beggars, 
who  pester  all  passers-by.  It  was 
built  about  1721  by  the  Feshwa  of 
that  date,  Baji  Bao.  There  are  four 
shrines  in  this  temple  dedicated  to  the 
Sun,  Ganesh,  Gaun  Shankar,  and  the 
monkey-god  Hanuman.  Near  this  is 
the  temple  of  Sakshi  Vinay&k,  the 
witnessing  deity.  It  was  built  in  1770 
by  a  Maratha,  whose  name  is  not- 
recorded.  Here  pilgrims,  afterfinishing 
the  Panch  Kosi,  or  five  kos  or  10  m. 
circuit  round  Benares,  must  get  a 
certificate  of  having  done  so,  otherwise 
their  labour  goes  for  nothing.  S.  of  the 
temple  to  Shani  is  that  of  Bhokaresh- 
war,  ShuJcar  being  the  planet  Venus 
or  its  regent,  and  lahwwr  <'god." 
Here  prayers  are  made  for  han£ome 
sons.  Between  the  Temple  of  Anna- 
puma,  and  that  of  Sakshi  v  inayak  is  a 
strange  figure  of  Gaaeeh,  squatting  on 
a  planorm  raised  a  little  above  the  path. 
This  ugly  object  is  red,  with  alver 
hands,  feet,  ears,  and  elephant's 
trunk* 

After  viewing  too  closely  the  vul^ 
aspect  of  Hindu  worship,  and  suffering 
from  the  smells,  jostlings,  and  noises 
of  the  Golden  Temple,  it  will  be  a  re- 
lief to  visit  the  Canniohael  Library, 
which  was  built  by  public  subscrip- 
tion. 

About  1  m.  N.  from  this  is  the 
Town  Hall,  a  modem  building  of  red 
stone. 


Banmagar  and  Samath. 

Before  visiting  Banmagar,  the  resi- 
4ence  of  the  Maharaja  of  Benares, 
which  is  on  the  right  bank  of  the 


Gkmges,  it  will  be  well  to  ask  permis« 
sion  to  visit  the  palace.  Having  ob- 
tained this,  the  traveller  will  drive  post 
the  Durga  Eund  Temple  to  what  is 
called  the  Banmagar  Ghat  on  the  W. 
bank  of  the  Ganges,  opposite  to  a  Ghit 
of  the  same  name  on  the  £.  bank, 
which  is  overlooked  by  the  palaoe. 
There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  rooms 
which  look  on  the  river. 

At  1  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  the  pslace  is  a 
beautiful  tank,  with  flights  of  stone 
steps  to  the  water's  edge,  and  a  stone 
casm^  all  round.  To  the  N.  of  the 
tank  is  a  tem^e  called  Sumer  Mandir. 

Samath.— The  site  of  old  Benares, 
where  Buddha  taught  To  reach  it 
cross  the  Bama  Bridge  and  pass  Warren 
Hastings's  sun-dial  on  £.,  proceed  slong 
the  Ghazipur  Eoad  to  the  third  mile- 
stone, and  then  turn  off  to  the  left. 
ShorUy  after  turning,  two  towers,  one 
of  which  stands  on  a  hill,  come  in  view. 
In  Fergusson's  Hist,  of  Arch,  is  a  view 
of  this  tower,  or  Tope,  and  also  an 
excellent  account  of  it ;  with  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  panelling.  "  The  best 
known  as  well  as  the  best  preserved  of 
the  Bengal  topes,  is  that  at  Samath,  near 
Benares.  It  was  carefully  explored  by 
General  Cunningham  in  1835-36,  and 
found  to  be  a  stupa— viz.  containing 
no  relics,  but  erected  to  mark  some 
spot  sanctified  by  the  presence  of  Bud- 
dna,  or  bv  some  act  of  his  during  his 
long  residence  there.  It  is  situated  in 
the  Deer  Park,  where  he  took  up  his 
residence,  with  his  five  disciples,  when 
he  first  removed  from  Gaya  on  attaining 
Buddhahood,  and  commencing  his  mis- 
sion as  a  teacher.  What  act  it  com- 
memorates we  shall  probably  never 
know,  as  there  are  several  mounds  in 
the  neighbourhood,  and  the  descriptions 
of  the  Chinese  pilgrims  are  not  suffi- 
ciently precise  to  enable  us  now  to  dis- 
criminate between  them."^ 

The  building  consists  of  a  stone  base- 
ment 93  ft  in  diameter,  and  solidly 
built,  the  stones  being  clamped  together 
with  iron  to  the  height  of  43  ft  Above 
that  it  is  in  brickwork,  rising  to  a 
height  of  110  ft  above  the  surrotmd- 
ing  rains,  and  128  ft  above  the  plain. 
Externally  the  lower  part  is  relieved 
1  FergoBsoa's  IndUm  ArtMieOur^ 


d  by  Google 


BOUTE  1.      BUZAR — ABRAH 


47 


]  y  d^t  proiectmg  fietces,  each  21  ft  6 
JL  Wide,  and  15  ft.  apart  In  each  is 
I  small  niche,  intended  apparently  to 
•ntain  a  seated  figure  of  Buddha,  and 
Mow  them,  encircling  the  monument, 
iia  Imd  of  sculptured  ornament  of  the 
■ost  exquisite  beauty.  The  central 
part  consists  of  geometric  ^ttems  of 
peai  intricacy,  but  combined  with 
ingolar  skill ;  and  aboye  and  below 
Ibluge  equally^  well  designed,  and  so 
nu^  resembling  that  carved  by  Hindu 
irtiits  on  the  earliest  Mohammedan 
moaqoes  at  Ajmere  and  Delhi,  as  to 
nab  us  fisel  sure  that  they  cannot  be 
feiT  distant  in  date. 

^In  his  excavations,  Creneral  Gun- 
niii^am  found,  buried  in  the  solid 
mamry,  at  the  depth  of  lOJ  ft.  from 
thi  summit,  a  large  stone,  on  which 
m  engraved  the  usual  Buddhist  for- 
aala:  'Ye  dharmma  hetu, '  etc.,  in  char- 
ictere  belonging  to  the  7th  century." 
Dr.  Fergusson  writes  that  he  is  "  inclined 
to  adopt  the  tradition  preserved  by 
Captain  Wilford,  to  the  enect  that  the 
Sarnath  monument  was  erected  bv  the 
Kms  of  Mohi  Pala,  and  destroyed  (in- 
terrupted) by  the  Mohammedans  in 
1017  A.D.,  before  its  completion.  The 
ibrm  of  the  monument,  the  character 
«f  its  sculptured  ornaments,  the  un- 
finished condition  in  which  it  is  left, 
md  indeed  the  whole  circumstances  of 
tke  case,"  he  continues,  ''render  this 
ktd  so  much  the  most  probable,  that  I 
M  inclined  to  adopt  it  almost  without 
bsitation." 

Sarnath  was  visited  by  the  Chinese 
Buddhist  pilgrims,  Fa-Hian  in  399  A.D., 
ltd  Hioaen  Thsang  in  629-645  A.D. 
Die  former  says :  **  At  10  li  (2  m.)  to 
4e  N.W-  of  Benares  is  the  temple, 
itoated  in  the  Deer  Park  of  the  Im- 
bortal. "  Hioaen  Thsang  states  that  to 
4e  N.E.  of  Benares  was  a  stupa,  built 
3^  Asoka,  100  ft.  high,  and  opposite  to 
It  a  stone  column  "of  blue  colour, 
kight  as  a  mirror."  He  says  the 
ionastery  of  the  Deer  Park  was  divided 
tto  eight  parts,  and  was  surrounded 
^  a  wall,  within  which  were  balus- 
tades,  two-storied  palaces,  and  a  Vi- 
kn,  200  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  an 
ia-molo  or  mango  in  embossed  gold. 
There  were  100  rows  of  niches  round 


the  stupa  of  bric^  each  holding  a 
statue  of  Buddha  in  embossed  gold. 
To  the  S.  W.  of  the  vihara  was  a  stone 
stupa  raised  by  Asoka,  having  in  front 
a  column  70  ft  high,  on  the  spot  where 
Buddha  delivered  his  first  discourse. 
W.  of  the  monasteiT  was  a  tank  in 
which  Buddha  bathed,  to  the  W.  of  that 
another  where  he  washed  his  monk's 
water-pot,  and  to  the  N.  a  third  where 
he  wasned  his  garments.  Close  to  the 
tanks  was  a  stupa,  then  another,  and 
then  in  the  midst  of  a  forest  a  third. 
To  the  S,  W.  of  the  monastery  at  J  a  m. 
was  a  stupa,  800  ft  high,  resplendent 
with  lewels  and  surmounted  by  an 
arrow.  The  Dhamek  Stupa,  the  one 
now  existing,  stands  on  rising  ground, 
and  has  to  the  W.  a  Jain  temple  sur- 
rounded by  an  enclosure.  About  40 
ft  from  the  K  end  there  is  a  torso  of 
Buddha,  with  the  Brahmanical  Thread. 
There  are  also  a  few  carved  stones.  To 
the  W.  are  acres  of  mounds  and  exca- 
vations, showing  that  there  were  exten- 
sive buildings  m  that  direction.  At 
370  ft.  to  the  W.  by  S.  of  the  Dhamek 
Stupa,  is  a  round  well  50  ft  in  diameter, 
which  the  guide  calls  the  Bani's  bath. 
It  is  15  ft.  deep,  and  a  torso  of  Buddha 
lies  in  it 

A  little  to  the  N.  of  the  well  is  Jagat 
Sing's  Stupa,  so  called  by  Cunning- 
ham, because  Babu  Jagat  Sing,  Diwan 
of  Chait  Sing,  excavated  it  to  get 
bricks  to  build  Jagatganj.  The  other 
tower  stands  on  a  very  steep  mound 
about  100  ft.  high.  The  building  is 
octagonal,  and  has  an  Arabic  inscrip- 
tion on  the  N.  side,  and  a  well  down 
the  centre. 

The  objects  of  interest  in  the  Canton- 
ment are  the  Mint,  where  the  Europeans 
and  other  Christians  assembled  when 
the  Mutiny  broke  out  in  1867,  the 
yellow  bungaloWf  where  Warren  Hast- 
ings lived,  and  the  sun-dial  he  erected. 
There  is  a  large  jail,  and  the  necessary 
offices  of  a  large  civil  station.] 

983  m.  Buxar  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  Hotel. 

1082  m.  Arrah  sta.,  D.K  The  special 
interest  that  attaches  to  this  spot  is  ic 
connection  with  an  incident  of  the 
Mutiny.      After     some     preliminarr 

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KOUTB  1.      BOMBAY  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


troubles,  the  Sepoys  at  JXnapur 
mutmied  on  the  24th  July.  They  then 
marched  to  Arrah,  where  they  released 
the  prisoners  in  the  jail,  plundered  the 
treasury,  and,  but  for  the  gallant  re- 
sistance offered,  would  have  destroyed 
all  the  Christians  in  the  place.  A 
serious  misfortune  added  enormously 
to  the  difficulties  of  the  situation.  A 
relieving  party  of  about  230  Europeans 
from  Dinapur  fell  into  an  ambuscade 
and  were  nearly  annihilated.  In  the 
meantime  the  little  party  of  English 
at  Arrah  were  holding  out  against  tre- 
mendous odds.  They  were  surrounded 
by  2000  Sepoys,  and  a  multitude  of 
armed  insurgents,  perhaps  four  times 
that  number.  There  were  about  12 
Englishmen  and  50  Sikhs. 

On  the  27th  of  July  the  Dinapur 
mutinous  Sepoys  attacked  the  little 
garrison  under  Vicars  Boyle,  the  Civil 
Engineer,  and  Hereward  Wake,  but 
were  met  with  such  a  heavy  fire  that 
they  broke  into  groups  and  sheltered 
themselves  by  trees.  The  enemy  had 
recourse  to  various  devices  for  driving 
the  English  out,  but  in  vain.  A  week 
thus  passed,  but  when  the  second 
Sunday  came  round  Major  Vincent 
Eyre,  who  had  fought  his  way  through 
the  enemy's  lines,  arrived  with  4  guns, 
60  English  gunners,  and  about  260  in- 
fantry, and  after  a  very  critical  engage- 
ment against  overwhelming  numoers, 
charged  home,  and  the  enemy  broke 
and  led  in  confusion. 

The  house  they  defended  stands  in 
the  Judge's  Compound.  It  is  nearly  a 
sq.,  and  has  two  stories,  with  a  veran- 
dah on  three  sides,  supported  by  arches 
which  the  besieged  filled  up  with, 
sand -bags.  The  lower  story  is  a 
little  over  10  ft.  high,  and  was  held  by 
50  Sikh  soldiers.  The  garrison  dug  a 
well  in  the  house,  and  that  was  all  the 
water  they  had. 

At  about  i  m.  from  the  Judge's 
house  is  St.  Saviaur^a  Cfmreh,  a  venr 
small  but  neat  building.  In  this  churcn 
and  in  a  railed  enclosure  near  the  Col- 
lector's Court-house  are  some  interest- 
ing monuments  and  tombs  of  those 
who  fell  in  this  gallant  defence  and 
rescue. 

Arrah  is  on  a  branch  of  the  San 


Ganalf  the  great  irrigation -work  of 
South  Behar.    The  Granges  is  crossed  at 

1062  m.  Bankiirarjunc.  sta.,:Oc  (R-), 
D.B.,  the  Civil  Station  of  the  district, 
forms  the  western  extremity  of  the  city 
of  Patna  (sta.  6  m.  farther  £.)  (170,000 
inhab.},  which  covers  10  sq.  m.,  aid 
with  its  suburbs  extends  9  m.  along 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Gkinges,  but  cob- 
tains  nothing  of  much  interest  to  ^e 
traveller,  except  a  building  called  l^e 
Gtolah,  which  was  built  for  a  granary 
in  1783,  but  has  never  been  used  for 
that  purpose.  It  is  426  ft.  round  at 
the  base,  built  of  masonry,  with  walk 
12  ft.  2  in.  in  thickness,  the  interior 
diameter  being  109  ft.  It  is  about  90 
ft  high,  and  might  contain  137,000 
tons.  Inside  there  is  a  most  wonderful 
echo,  the  best  place  to  hear  which  is  in 
the  middle  of  the  building.  As  a 
whispering  galler^r  there  is  perhaps 
no  such  building  in  the  world.  The 
faintest  whisper  at  one  end  is  heard 
most  distinctly  at  the  other.  As  a 
curiosity,  if  for  no  other  reason,  the 
building  should  be  ke^t  up.  The 
ascent  to  the  top  is  outside,  by  steps. 
At  the  top  is  a  platform  10  ft.  9  m. 
round,  which  has  a  stone  placed  in  the 
centre.  This  stone  can  be  lifted  and 
access  obtained  to  the  interior.  It  is 
said  that  Jung  Bahadur  of  Nipal  rode 
a  pony  up  the  steps  outside  to  the  top 

Patna  is  a  great  centre  for  the  Indigo 
TnUle.  The  Basaan  are  very  exten- 
sive and  well  worth  a  visit.  The 
Government  Opiam  Faetory  is  the 
largest  in  India. 

Bankipur  is  the  junction  for  the 
Tirhoot  State  Ely.,  N. ;  the  Bengal  and 
N.  W.  Rly.,  leading  to  Oudh  ;  and  the 
Patna  Gaya  Rly.  S. 

[Expedition  to  Gkiya. 

67  m.  from  Bankipur. 
This  joumev  will  not  repay  the  ordin- 
ary traveller,  but  to  the  archffiologist  or 
the  student  of  Buddhism  it  will  be 
full  of  interest.  The  district  of  Gaya 
contains  many  places  of  great  aancti^. 
The  rocky  hills  which  here  run  oat  far 
into  the  plains  of  the  Ganges  Valley 
teem  with  associations  of  the  religion  of 
Buddhism  many  of  which  have  been 


d  by  Google 


B0X7TB  1.      IBZPEDITION   TO   GATA 


49 


firerted  to  new  objects  by  modem 
aperstition.  The  Brahmans  stamped 
oit  the  Buddhist  faith,  bat  they  nave 
utilised  its  local  traditions  to  their  own 
infit  At  the  present  day  the  chief 
pilgTims  to  the  temple  and  sacred  tree 
atBoddh  Gaya  are  devout  Marathas, 
vko  oome  to  pray  for  the' souls  of  their 
ucestors  in  purgatory.  The  pilgrim, 
before  leaving  his  home,  must  first  walk 
five  thnes  round  his  native  village, 
oiling  upon  the  souls  of  his  ancestors 
to  accompany  him  on  his  journey. 
Arriied  at  Graya,  he  is  forthwith  placed 
in  charge  of  a  special  Brahman  guide. 

Ql|a  is  a  city  of  80,000  inhab.  At 
lm.from  the  station  is  the  D.B.  and, 
a  Bhvt  way  to  the  W.  of  it,  the  Col- 
lectt's  office. 

ik>ut  100  yds.  N.  of  the  cemetery, 
3  B.  £.  of  the  station,  is  a  Temple, 
sacred  to  Mahadeo,  Ram,  Lakshman, 
Osnesh,  and  Hanuman,  built  by  Bani 
lodrajit,  of  Tikari,  at  a  very  consider- 
able cost.  Thence  to  the  temple  of 
Biihn  Pad,  in  Old  Gaya,  is  1)  m.  It  is 
difficult  to  approach  the  temple  except 
on  foot,  owing  to  the  extreme  narrow- 
0618  of  the  streets.  Beyond  this  is  the 
Mstep  of  VisHma,  or  the  Bishn  Pad, 
viich  is  13  in.  long  and  6  in.  broad. 
it  is  of  silver,  and  is  enclosed  in  a 
Yttel  of  silver  inserted  into  the  pave- 
QB&t,  whichhasa  diameter  of  4  ft.  Here 
Inrer  and  other  offeriugs  are  made. 

laddh  Ckiya  is  7  m.  S.  of  the  city. 
It  the  first  5  m.  the  road  is  good,  but 
Hhaded  by  trees.  Pass  the  prison, 
4;  after  5  m.  turn  L  and  go  for  2 
11  along  a  country  road.  The  Temple 
^Buddh  Oaya  is  of  very  great  anti- 
aoounds  with 


fity  (643  B.O.),   and 

Wtions  of  the  life  of  Buddha. 


It 


I  built  in  a  hollow,  which  diminishes 
^apparent  height.  It  is  also  shut  in 
^mall  houses.  The  figure  of  Buddha, 
*M>rdiiiff  to  Hiouen  Thsang,  was  of 
Muned  paste,  and  was  destroyed  cen- 
iies  9m.  Other  figures  of  plaster 
Kb  saraequently  made  aud  also  de- 
J^iyed.  To  the  1.  is  the  place  where 
ttl  founder  of  the  present  College  of 
its,  about  250  years  ago,  performed 
s,  that  is,  sat  surrounded  by 
8,  with  the  sun  overhead.  The 
were  preserved,  and  a  hollow 
\Indid\ 


pillar,  with  a  diameter  of  4^  ft;  and 
4  ft  high,  rising  from  a  sq.  base  was 
built  over  them.  Nearly  in  line  with 
it  are  three  masonry  tombs  of  Mahants. 

It  is  known  that  Asoka  surrounded 
the  temple  with  a  stone  railing.  As 
much  of  this  railing  as  could  be  found 
has  been  restored  to  the  position  which 
it  is  supposed  to  have  occupied.  The 
railing  has  four  bars  of  stone,  sup- 
ported by  pillars  at  intervals  of  8  ft. 
The  top  rau  is  ornamented  with  carv- 
ings of  mermaids,  or  females  with  the 
taus  of  fish,  inserting  their  arms  into 
the  mouths  of  Makarahs,  that  is,  im 
aginary  crocodiles,  with  large  ears  like 
those  of  elephants,  and  long  hind  legs. 
Below  this  top  bar  are  three  others, 
also  of  stone,  ornamented  with  carv- 
ings of  lotus  flowers.  The  pillars  are 
adorned  with  carvings  of  various  groups, 
such  as  a  woman  and  child,  a  man,  with 
a  woman  who  has  the  head  of  a  horse, 
Centaurs,  and  so  on.  Mr.  Fergusson 
pronounced  this  to  be  '  *  the  most  ancient 
sculptured  monument  in  India."  The 
plinth  of  the  temple  is  26J  ft  high, 
and  at  the  top  of  it  is  a  clear  space  IS 
ft.  broad,  which  allowed  a  passage  round 
the  tower,  and  also  gave  access  to  a 
chamber  in  it.  At  each  corner  of  the 
platform  by  which  the  passage  round 
the  tower  was  effected  was  a  small 
temple,  and  below,  outside  Asoka's 
rail,  were  many  subordinate  temples. 
Behind  the  temple,  on  a  raised  platform, 
is  the  sacred  Bo  tree  (a  pipul  or  Ficus 
religioaa)  under  which  Buddha  sat. 

Mr.  J.  C.  Oman  says :  **  If  it  were 
possible  to  ascertain  by  any  means  what 
particular  spot  on  earth  is  the  most 
sacred  in  the  opinion  of  mankind, 
there  is  every  reason  to  think  that  the 
majority  of  votes  would  be  given  in 
favour  of  Buddh  Gaya.  Defaced  by 
time  and  the  hand  of  man,  transformed 
a  good  deal  through  well-meant  restore^ 
tions,  the  celebrated  temple  at  Bud4h 
Gaya,  even  in  its  modem  disguised 
condition,  with  its  19th-century  stucco 
about  it,  and  its  brand  new  gilt  finial, 
is  an  imposing  structure,  about  170  f^ 
high  and  50  ft.  wide  at  its  base.  All 
things  considered,  it  has  certainly  lasted 
remarkably  well,  the  material  of  which 
it  is  constructed  beinff  only  well-burnt 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ         B 


50 


fiOUTB  1.      BOHBAT  TO  OALOUTTA 


Tndtc 


brick  cemented  with  mud.  Stone  has 
been  need  <mly  in  the  door  frames  and 
flooring.  The  buildini;  is  plastered 
with  lime-mortar.  It  is  bnilt  in  the 
form  of  a  p3rramid  of  nine  stories,  em- 
bellished on  the  outer  side  with  niches 
and  mouldings.  Facing  the  rising  sun 
is  the  entrance  doorway,  and  above  it, 
at  an  elevation  greater  than  the  roof  of 
the  porch  which  once  adorned  the 
temple,  there  is  a  triangular  opening 
to  admit  the  morning  glory  to  fall  upon 
the  image  in  the  sanctuary." 

A  Burmese  inscription  records  its 
restoration  in  ld06-1309.  Aeain  in 
1877  permission  was  granted  them  to 
restore  the  temple,  but  Rajendralala 
Mitra,  deputed  by  the  Lieutenant- 
Governor  of  Bengal  to  inspect  their 
work,  states  that  **the  Burmese  carried 
on  demolitions  and  excavations  which 
in  a  manner  swept  away  most  of  the 
old  landmarks."  The  remains  of  the 
vaulted  gateway  in  front  of  the  temple 
were  completely  demolished^  and  the 
place  cleared  out  and  levelled.  The 
stone  pavUion  over  the  Buddha  Fad 
was  dismantled,  and  its  materials  cast 
aside  on  a  rubbish  mound  at  a  distance. 
The  granite  plinth  beside  it  was  re- 
moved. The  drain-pipe  and  gargoyle 
which  marked  the  level  of  the  granite 
|»avement  were  destroyed.  The  founda- 
tions of  the  old  buildings  noticed  by 
Hiouen  Thsang  were  excavated  for  bricks 
and  filled  with  rubbish.  The  revetment 
wall  round  the  sacred  tree  had  been 
rebuilt  on  a  different  foundation  on  the 
W.  The  plaster  ornaments  on  the 
interior  facing  of  the  sanctuary  were 
knocked  off,  and  the  facing  was  covered 
with  plain  stucco,  and  an  area  of  218 
ft  to  250  ft.  was  levelled  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  new  wall.  For  further 
description  of  the  temple,  refer  to  Raj- 
endralalaMitra's  Buddh  Gaya,  Calcutta, 
1878;  and  Cunningham's  Arch,  Surv. 
vol.  iii.  ;  and  Sir  ]^win  Arnold's  most 
delightful  chapter  in  India  Revisited, 
1886,  "  The  Land  of  the  Light  of  Asia." 

To  the  N.W.  is  a  small  but  very 
Micient  temple,  in  which  is  a  figure  of 
Buddha  standing.  The  doorway  is 
finely  carved.] 

lllSm.Mokanwhjuncsta.(R.)  Line 


to  the  N.  joining  the  Tirhoot  Stat4 
Bailway.  To  the  K  tiie  loon  line  o* 
the  East  Indian  Railway,  whicli  foUowi 
the  banks  of  the  Ganges,  rejoins  th< 
direct  route  at  Ehana  junc,  near  Burd 
wan. 

262  m.  Lnokeeseni  junc.  tta 
[Here  a  loop  line  of  the  E.  I.  Sly 
branches  E.  along  the  banks  of  th 
Ganges  via  Jamalpur,  Sa.heb£^ii]i|^ 
and  Tiapahar  to  Ehana  (see  below] 
where  it  rejoins  the  main  line.] 

1217  m.  Madhupar  junc  sta.  (R. 
of  the  Giridih  Line. 

[Excanioa  to  Parasnath 

Parasnath  Mountain.— From  Mac 
hupur  sta.  to  Oiridih  sta.  24  m..  b 
rail,  from  the  latter  place  to  the  foi 
of  mountain  18  m.  by  good  roac 
Bearers  at  Madhuband  for  ti 
ascent  (2|  hrs.)  The  f^rtsman  an 
the  lover  of  mountain  scenery  wi 
e^joy  a  visit  to  this  far-fiuned  mountai 
and  place  of  pilgrimage.  The  num^ 
ous  temples,  though  most  pictnresqti 
are  of  no  great  antiquity.  It  is  44^ 
ft.  above  sea-level,  and  is  the  Eastei 
metropolis  of  Jain  worsh^).  Aoc<»dii 
to  tradition,  Parasnath,  who  waa  t] 
23d  Tirthankar  of  the  Jains,  was  boi 
at  Benares,  lived  300  years,  and  w 
buried  on  this  mountain. 

Madhuband,    1280   ft.,    where    t) 
bearers  are  procured,  is  at  the  N.  si^ 
of  the  mountain.    Here  is  a  Jain  c<^ 
vent  on  a  tableland.    In  a  clearance, 
the  forest,    **the   appearance   of    t 
snow-white  domes  and  bannerets  of  1 
temple,  through  the  fine  trees  by  whJ 
it  is  surrounded,  is  very  beautira 
The  ascent  of  the  mountain  is  uf 
pathway  worn  by  the  feet  of  innnntH 
able  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  In< 
10,000  still  visit  the  place  annua 
The  path  leads  through  woods  *« 
large  clumps  of  bamboo  over  slaty  m 
of  gneiss,  much  inclined  and  slop 
away  from  the  mountain.     The  y 
from  a  ridge  500  ft  above  the  vil] 
is  superb.    Ascending  higher,  the  | 
traverses  a  thick  forest  of  «iZ  ( VaU 
or  Shxyrea,  rohu8ta\   and  other  t 
spanned  with  cables  of  Bauhinia  sti 

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nOTTlIB  1.      BXOtTBStON  90  PARASNATH 


51 


it  dOOO  ft  the  vegetation  becomes 
aore  luxuriant,  and  the  conical  hills 
i  tlw  white  ants  disappear.  At  3500 
t  tlie  yegetation  again  changes,  the 
tees  becoming  gnarled  and  scattered. 
Ihe  traveUer  emerges  from  the  forest 
4  tie  foot  of  a  great  ridce  of  rocky 
jeab,  stretching  E.  and  W .  for  3  or  4 
1.  The  saddle  of  the  crest  (4230  ft.) 
i  mrked  by  a  small  temple,  one  of 
lai^  which  occupy  various  promi- 
ienees  of  the  ridge.  The  view  is  beauti- 
M.  To  the  N.  are  ranges  of  low  wooded 
lill^and  the  Barakah  and  Aji  rivers. 
To  the  S.  is  a  flatter  country,  with 
low  ranges  and  the  Damodar  river. 
Tbtsituation  of  the  principal  temple 
is  ^  fine,  below  the  saddle  in  a  hollow 
^  the  S.,  surrounded  by  groves  of 

fun  and  Fieus  indica.  It  contains 
but  the  sculptui^ed  feet  of  Paras- 
^  and  some  marble  cross-legged 
jpues  of  Baddha,  with  crisp  hair,  and 
•  Brahmanical  Cord.  Bears  are 
•nnerous  round  this  spot  A  conval- 
•ent  depot  for  European  soldiers  was 
•toblished  in  1858,  but  was  abandoned, 
•d  the  officers*  quarters  are  now 
^fflisedasD.B.] 

1262  ni.  Sitaraxupur  junc.  sta.  for 
war,  5nL 

j  1268  m.  AsenBOl  junc.  sta.  of  the 
fgal  and  Nagpur  Railway  (see 
».3). 

1279  m.  Banigunj  sta.,  3^  on  the  E. 


edge  of  the  very  extensive  coal-fields  of 
Bengal,  which  stretch  out  384  m.  to  the 
W.,  and  extend  under  the  bed  of  the 
Damodar.  The  place  was  formerly  the 
property  of  the  Kaja  of  Burdwan,  hence 
the  name.  More  than  30  species  of 
fossil  plants,  chiefly  ferns,  have  been 
found  m  the  coal,  of  similar  species  to 
those  in  the  Yorkshire  and  Australian 
coal.  The  mines  aflbrd  regular  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  men  and 
women,  chiefly  of  the  Beauri  tribe.  A 
vast  number  of  boatmen  on  the  Damo- 
dar river  are  employed  in  carrying  coal 
to  Calcutta.  The  coal  is  piled  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  can  be  carried 
down  only  while  the  Damodar  is  in 
flood.  The  mines  are  said  to  have  been 
accidentally  discovered  in  1820  by  Mr 
Jones,  the  architect  of  Bishop's  College 
at  Calcutta.  The  hills  of  Chatna. 
Bihari  Nath,  and  Pachete  look  well 
from  Ranigunj. 

1325  m.  Khana  junc.  sta.  for  the 
loop  line  (see  p.  264). 

1334  m.  Burdwan  sta.  (R.) 

1376  m.  Hooghly  junc.  sta.  for  the 
Eastern  Bengal  Railway  by  the  fine 
Bridge  over  the  Hooghly  (fftigli)  river. 

1379  m.  Chandemagore  and  Seram- 
pore    stations    (see    Excursion    from 


Calcutta,  p.  64). 

1400  m.    Calcntta, 
minus  (see  next  page). 


Howrah    ter- 


d  by  Google 


5f 


OALOUTTA  OITX 


CALCUTTA  CITY* 

CONTENTS. 


PAQB 

Arsenal 58 

Asiatic  Society 67 

Belvedere  (Lt -Governor's  Palace)  .       .  60 

Bishop's  College 59 

Brahma  Som^j 60 

Calcutta  University  Senate  House         .  66 
Cathedrals— 

St.  Paul's 58 

Roman  Catholic 60 

Churches- 
Armenian      60 

Greek 60 

Old  Mission 59 

St.  Andrew's  or  Scotch  Kirk       .       .  60 

St.  John's  (Old  Cathedral)  ...  59 

St  Thomas's  Roman  Caraolic     .  60 
Clubs  (see  Index  and  Directory). 

Custom  House 54 

Dalhousie  Institate 67 

Engineering  (Civil)  College     ...  62 
Esplanade,  or  Maidan      ....  64 
Ports- 
William 67 

Old  Port 68 

Garden  Beach 60 


Gardens — 

Botanical      •       •       •       • 

Eden      .       .  •       • 

Government  House  . 
HighCourt       .... 

Hospitals 

Hotels  (see  Index  and  Directory),  i 
Leg^islative  Council  Office        .      ' 
Maidan  or  Esplanade 
Metcalfe  Half .       .       .       .      | 
Military  Prison        .        .        .      i 

Mint f 

Missions J 

Mosque  of  Prince  Ghulam  Muhaia 
Museums— Economical  .       .     i 

Indian J 

Palaces— King  of  Ondh's .       .     J 

Lt -Governor's  (Belvedere)  , 
Post  Office        .... 
Public  Buildings     . 
Bace-course      ... 
Secretariat 

Statues     ..... 
Telegraph  Office 
Town  Hall        ... 


2*he  Approach  from  the  Sea,  Hooghly 
Mver,  cmd  Landing-place  at  Calcutta. 
—At  Pilot's  Ridge  during  the  S.W. 
monsoon,  that  is  from  the  15th  of 
March  till  the  16th  of  September,  there 
is  a  floating  Light -vessel,  which  is  a 

?[iide  to  vessels  making  the  Hooghly 
ilot  Station.  At  this  point  the 
traveller  enters  its  waters.  The  Cal- 
cutta Pilots  are  better  paid,  better 
educated,  and  occupy  a  higher  position 
than  others  of  their  profession.  The 
Hooghly  is  a  most  dangerous  and  diffi- 
cult river  to  navigate.  There  is  in  the 
first  place  the  dread  of  cyclones,  which 
may  take  place  in  any  month  except 
February,  when  they  are  unknown. 
The  worst  months  are  May  and  Octo- 
ber. In  some  of  these  cyclones  a  storm 
wave  has  covered  the  adjacent  shores, 
and  many  thousands  of  persons  have 
perished.  The  cyclone  of  1874  covered 
Sau^  Island  with  Water.  But  in 
addition  to  the  possible  danger  of 
storms,  there  is  the  normal  one  of 
shoals  and  tides.  New  shoals  are  con- 
tinually forming,  and  nothing  but  a 


daily  experience  of  the  rive^ 
a  pilot  to  tf^e  a  vessel 
There  is,  for  instance,  the  m 
ous  shoal  called  the  "James 
The  real  origin  of  the  name 
the  wreck  of  a  vessel  called 
James  and  Mary  on  that  hi 
It  appears  first  under  this 
chart  dated  1711.  Upon 
many  other  wrecks  have  t 
The  Hooghly  cannot  be  i 
night,  nor  until  the  tide  i 
be  ascended.  It  is  usual,  i 
anchor  near  Saugar  Islan 
casion  serves. 

Saugar  Island^Agath^ 
100,000  to  200,000  pilgril 
parts  of  India,  but  princ 
the  Bengal  districts,  takes  ] 
early  part  of  January,  the 
great  Bathing  Festival  of  B< 
bdthing  ceremony  as  a  ru 
three  davs,  though  the  fair 
couple  or  days  longer.  Th( 
fair  is  a  sandbank  on  the  h» 
the  island,  facing  the  surf,  jiut 


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.  the  locaUty  by  the  n7^ 
(from  C«lctttt». 


jetnes.    jror  umamff  irom  vm  sanHn 

one  of  the  Ghats  the  fee  is  2  annas 
each  person,  and  4  annas  for  luggag< 


Digitized 


byGoogk 


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.M.^     MtU     UVUl- 


xa.u  iH  a  sanabank  on  the  S.    siia] 
^  Botbmg  but  a  I  the  island,  facing  the  snrf,  jnst  tc 


THB  AFP&OAOH  TO  OALOUTTA 


53 


T.  of  the  junction  of  Pagoda  Creek 
with  the  bay.  An  offering  is  made  to 
&e  sea  of  cocoa-nuts,  fruits,  or  flowers, 
md  especially  of  five  gems — a  pearl, 
diamond,  an  emerald,  a  topaz,  and  a 
mece  of  coral  worth  a  rupee  or  two. 
lormerly  children  used  to  be  cast  into 
the  aea..  After  bathing,  the  pilgrims 
JO  to  the  spot  where  the  Pholu  emblem 
of  Eipila  Muni  is  set  up. 

Sport  is  abundant  Deer,  wild  boar, 
and  a  great  varietv  of  sea-birds  are 
found  throughout  the  year. 

Tkers  are  to  be  met  with  in  the 
jun^.  The  best  way  to  get  about  is 
m  a  boat,  sportsmen  landing  when 
thejso  desire  for  shooting,  and  return- 
ing it  night  In  this  way  good  sport 
ma^be  had ;  but  without  previous  ex- 
penence  too  much  must  not  be  expected. 

He  lighthouse,  of  iron,  76  ft  high, 
was  commenced  in  1808.  It  is  at 
JGddleton  Point,  at  the  3.W.  end  of 
fte  island,  570  yds.  from  low -water 
nark. 

I  The  mouth  of  the  Hooghly  is  about 
|90  m.  from  Calcutta. 

At  40  m.t  is  the  town  of  Kalpi,  D.B., 
n  the  rt  ^oing  up  stream. 
^  It  contains  a  large  market-place  for 
sale  of  rice  grown  in  the  interior, 

I  there  is  a  ro^  from  it  to  Calcutta. 

At  30  m.,t  as  the  crow  flies,  is  Dia- 
lond  Harbour,  marked  by  a  large 
imber  of  trees,  where  the  E.  I.  Com- 
Biy's  ships  used  to  anchor.  There  is 
Custom  House  here,  and  the  officers 
ird  ships  proceeding  U]^  the  river. 
\j,  to  Calcutta,  3  or  4  trains  daily,  in 
to  4  hrs.  At  28  m.t  is  the  Rupnarayan 
iw,  which  flows  into  the  Hooghly 
UheL 

^  in.+  Tamluk  is  passed  1.  (^p. 
HO).  A  very  famous  city  in  ancient 
les,  and  a  maritime  port  of  the 
ddhists,  where  the  Chinese  pilgrim 
iHian  embarked  for  Ceylon  in  the 
(inning  of  the  5th  cent  a.d.  Hiouen 
lang  250  years  later  speaks  of  it  as 
important  Buddhist  harbour.  It 
low  a  long  way  from  the  ocean,  but 
thed  by  the  tide.  There  is  a  Temple 
known  in  the  locality  by  the  name 
t  From  C«lcatt«. 


of  Dargah  Bhama  or  Bhenna.  It  was 
ori^aJly  a  Buddhist  temple.  The 
shnne  is  surrounded  by  a  cunous  triple 
walL  The  foundation  of  the  place  con- 
sists of  large  logs  covered  with  bricks 
and  stones  to  a  height  of  80  ft  covering 
the  whole  area. 

The  Ikimodar  river  enters  the 
Hooghly  District  from  Bordwan,  and 
flows  past  the  villages  of  Ampta  £.  and 
Baghnan  W.  to  Mahishrakha  Ghat, 
where  it  is  crossed  by  the  Ulubaria 
Midnapur  Canal,  and  flows  into  the 
Hooghly  opposite  Fulta.  It  is  navi- 
gable as  far  as  Ampta,  which  is  25  m. 
from  its  mouth,  by  boats  of  from  10  to 
20  tons.  By  this  river,  large  quantities 
of  coal  are  brought  from  the  Raniguig 
mines. 

Fulta  is  a  large  villa^  just  opposite 
the  mouth  of  the  Damodar.  It  is  the  site 
of  a  Dutch  factory,  and  is  the  place  to 
which  the  English  ships  sailed  on  the 
capture  of  Calcutta  by  Sirajudaulah. 

At  15  m.  S.t  Ulubaria,  a  small  town 
on  the  L  of  tiie  Hooghly,  is  passed. 
Here  the  main  road  from  Calcutta  to 
the  temple  of  Jagannath  at  Pun  crosses 
the  Hooghly,  and  here  begins  the  Mid- 
napur High-Level  Canal.  A  few  m.  If. 
of  this  on  the  rt  are  the  extensive  Akra 
brick-fields  belonging  to  Government. 

At  7  m.t  the  first  view  of  the  city 
is  obtained,  and  then  Garden  Beach 
is  passed  rt ;  the  Botanical  Gkirdens 
and  Bishop's  (now  Civil  Engineering) 
College  on  the  1.  The  river  is  now 
crowded  with  ships  at  anchor,  many 
rows  deep,  all  the  way  up  to  the 
Landiuff-place,  Tfie  view  is  very  strik- 
ing, and  the  forest  of  masts,  the  plain 
of  the  Esplanade,  the  Fort  and  the 
fine  buildings  in  the  background,  all 
give  the  idea  of  a  great  commercial 
capital. 


Arrival  at  CALOUTTA.  a^^ 

Every  vessel  that  arrives  at  Calcutta 
must  be  berthed  by  the  Harbour-master 
either  in  the  new  Docks  or  at  the 
jetties.  For  landing  from  the  stream  at 
one  of  the  Ghats  the  fee  is  2  annas  for 
each  person,  and  4  annas  for  luggage. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


54 


CALCUTTA  CITY 


Iniia 


Frinsep's  Ohai,  nowsome  distance  in- 
land since  the  reclamation  of  the  fore- 
shore bythe  excavation  of  the  new  docks, 
is  marked  by  a  pavilion  of  stone,  sup- 
ported by  pillars,  and  inscribed  "  James 
Prinsep."  The  passenger  must  take  with 
him  a  pass  from  the  Custom  •  House 
officer,  without  which  he  may  not  put  his 
luggage  into  a  carriage.  From  the  jetty 
to  tihe  street  is  about  100  yds.,  through 
the  enclosure  of  the  Custom  House. 

The  Population  of  the  city  and 
suburbs  was  840,000  in  1891. 

The  Esplanade,  or  Haidan  (plain),  is 
a  magnificent  open  space  of  about  1^  m. 
diameter. 

Ochterlony  Monvmeni. — Not  far  from 
Government  House,  in  the  centre  of 
the  Esplanade,  is  a  colvmm,  165  ft.  hi^h 
to  Sir  David  Ochterlony,  Resident  in 
Malwa  and  Rajputana  in  1823.  It  has 
two  galleries  at  top,  from  which  a  fine 
view  over  Calcutta  is  obtained.  W.  of 
it  are  several  statues. 

Stattces, — First  comes  the  bronze 
equestrian  statue  of  Lord  ffardinge.  He 
is  bareheaded,  with  his  sheathed  sword 
by  his  side.  It  is  a  good  likeness,  and 
well  executed.  W.  of  this  statue  is 
that  of  Lord  Latorence,  standing  bare- 
headed. To  the  E.  of  Lord  Hardinge's 
statue  is  an  equestrian  bronze  statue  of 
£Iarl  of  Mayo,  On  the  Chowringhee 
Road  side  is  the  equestrian  statue  of 
Sir  James  OiUram,  by  Foley,  R.A.  He 
is  represented  bareheaded,  with  a  drawn 
sword  in  his  right  hand.  His  horse  is 
violently  reined  in.  Beneath  is  an  in- 
scription. There  are  statues  of  Lord 
Dvfferin  and  Lord  Roberta  on  either 
side  of  "the  red  road"  now  used  for 
the  evening  drive. 

At  the  N.W.  comer  of  the  Esplanade, 
lining  the  Strand,  are  the  Eden 
Gardens,  for  which  Calcutta  is  indebted 
to  the  Misses  Eden,  Lord  Auckland's 
sisters  ;  here  a  band  plays  every  even- 
ing. On  the  S.  side  is  a  fine  marble 
statue  to  Captain  Sir  William  Peel, 
of  H.M.S.  Shannon^  Commander  of  the 
Kaval  Brigade  in  the  Indian  Mutiny. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Gardens  is  the 
statue  of  Lord  Auckland, 

Standing  picturesquely  by  the  water- 
^de  is  a  Burmese  Pagoda,  brought  from 
Prome  and  set  up  in  1856.     Close  to 


the  Gardens  is  the  Ground  of  the  Cal- 
cutta Cricket  Club.  There  is  a  good 
drive  along  the  river  side  from  the 
Gardens  past  Fort- William  to  Behe- 
dere,  the  Lieut. -Governor's  resideaee, 
and  another  E.  from  the  Gardens  to 
Government  House.  *  There  is  also  a 
drive  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Esplanide 
to  the  Cathedral  and  Chowringhee. 

A  little  to  the  N.  is  Babu  Ghit, 
named  from  Raj  Chandra  Das,  irho 
constructed  it  There  is  a  bandsoae 
colonnade  with  Doric  pillars. 

Government  House  stands  in  a 
garden  of  6  acres.  Begun  1799  by  cot- 
mand  of  Lord  Wellesley  (arch.  Captain 
Wyatt).  The  design  is  copied  from 
that  of  Eedlestone  Hall,  Derbyshire, 
built  by  Adam,  and  consists  of  a  centnl 
building  with  four  wings  connected 
with  the  centre  by  gaUeries.  The 
building  stands  N.  and  S.,  and  the 
grand  entrance  faces  the  N.  To  the 
rt.  on  entering,  beneath  the  porch,  is 
a  finely-executed  white  marble  statue 
of  the  Marquis  Wellesley.  Close  by  are 
portraits  of  Lords  Canning,  1856-62, 
Hasting,  1813-23,  and  Mayo,  1869-72. 

The  Dining-room  is  of  white  chunam 
with  a  floor  of  veined  .white  marble. 
On  either  side  are  six  well -executed 
marble  busts  of  the  Caesars,  taken  from  a 
French  ship  during  the  war.  The 
Throne-room  is  so-called  from  its  con- 
taining the  throne  of  Tipu.  The  pic- 
tures are,  the  Queen  seated,  by  Sir  George 
Hayter,  a  most  indifferent  picture  ; 
Queen  Charlotte,  standing ;  next  G^rge 
III., — both  supposed  to  be  by  Hudson, 
the  master  ofSir  Joshua  Reynolds.  Next 
is  General  the  Hon.  Arthur  Wellesley, 
1803,  by  Home,  R.A.,  one  of  the  best 
in  the  collection,  and  extremely  inter- 
esting. On  the  way  to  the  breakfast- 
room,  pass  E.  through  a  curved  passage 
to  the  Council-room,  In  this  passage 
are  three  full-length  portraits — Lord 
Teignmouth,  1793-98,  The  Earl  of 
EUenborough,  1842-44,  and  Lord 
Metcalfe,  1835-39,  the  well-known 
likeness  by  Hayes. 

At  the  end  of  the  passage  is  the 
Council -room.      The  pictures  are   as 
follows :  The  Earl  of  Minto,  1807-18 
Sir  Eyre  Coote  (over  the  centre  door) 
Marquis    ComwalliB,    1786-98-1806 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS 


5& 


lord  Hardinge,   1844-48,  a  {-length 

eiit,  in  blue  undress,  wearing  a 
;  Warren  Hastings,  1772-85, 
with  ft  motto,  ''Mens  equa  in  arduis," 
It  the  top, — a  fine  mcture.  Over  the 
2d  door  rt  is  The  Earl  oi  Elgin  and 
Kincftrdine,  1862-63,  a  {-length.  Over 
&e  window.  The  Earl  of  Auckland, 
183642,  a  ^-length.  Mr.  John  Adam, 
1823,  a  fine  nicture  by  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence.  Marquis  Wellesley,  1798- 
1805,  in  peer's  robes.  Over  a  window 
Lord  Clive,  {-length,  wearing  Riband 
of  the  Bath,  by  I^athaniel  Dance. 

There  are  also  pictures  of  Louis  XY. 
and  Ms  Queen,  perhaps  by  De  la  Roche  ; 
of  'Udy  William  Bentinck,  by  Beechy  ; 
of  the  Nawab  S'aadat  'Ali  Khan,  by 
Chinnery ;  the  Shah  of  Persia,  1798  ; 
Jaswant  Sing,  Maharajah  of  Bhurtpur, 
by  Anger ;  and  the  Amir  of  Kabul,  by 
W.  M.  White. 

Above  the  dining-room  and  the  ad- 
jeiniBg  rooms  is  a  splendid  ballroom. 
"Die  £K}r  is  of  polished  teak,  and  the 
ceilings  are  beautifully  panelled,  after 
designs  by  Mr.  H.  M.  Locke.      The 
chandeliers  are  said  to  have  been  cap- 
tared  with  the  busts  of  the  Ceesars  and 
the  portrait  of  Louis  XY.  from  the 
French.     It  is  believed  that  they  were 
ill  taken  from  the  same  ship,  and  were 
apresent  from  the  French  Ejne  destined 
m  the  Nizam  of  Hyderabad.     In  the 
S.  anteroom  is  another  picture  of  the 
Xtrquis  Wellesley.    On  a  table  are  the 
absidiaiy  treaty  of  Hyderabad,  1798, 
die  partition  treaty  of  Mysore,  1799, 
tad  subsidiary  treaty  of  Seringapatam, 
1799. 
The  extensive  grounds  are  well  kept. 
40  yds.   from    the  verandah  on  the 
giound-floor  is  a  fine  brass  32-pounder, 
kken  at  Aliwal,  and  inscribed  in  Gur- 
tokhi.     On  either  side  is  a  6-pounder 
kass  tiger-gun,  taken  from  Tipu.     On 
the  N.  side  is  a  large  brass  ^n,  which 
ii  inscribed  "  Miani,  17th  February," 
«d  also  ''Hyderabad,  30th  of  March 
1843."    On  the  K.  side  is  another,  with 
tearriage  representing  a  dragon.   There 
iialso  a  small  brass  gun  to  the  N.W., 
«riou8  on  account  of  its  extreme  a^e. 
The  Town  HalL — ^This  fine  building 
stands  W.  of  Government  House.    It  was 
Wi%  by  tl^e  inhabitaxits  of  Calcutta  in 


1804,  and  cost  £70,000.  The  style  is 
Doric,  with  a  fine  flight  of  steps  lead- 
ing to  a  portico  on  the  S.  The  car- 
riage entrance  is  to  the  N.  under  a 
portico.  The  centre  of  the  building 
IS  occupied  by  a  saloon  162  ft.  long, 
and  65  ft.  broad.  In  the  S.  front  is  a 
central  room  82  ft.  long,  by  30  ft  broad, 
and  two  smaller  rooma  In  the  S.  vesti- 
bule is  a  marble  statue  of  Warren 
Hastings,  by  R.  Westmacott,  R.A. 
He  stands  between  a  Mohammedan  and 
a  Hindu.  At  the  W.  end  of  the  lower 
saloon  is  a  marble  statue  by  J.  Bacon, 
junr.,  of  the  Marquis  of  Comwallis. 
This  statue  was  erected  by  the  British 
inhabitants  of  Bengal,  1803  A.p.  In 
the  vestibules  are  busts  of  C.  B.  Green- 
law, Esq.,  and  John  Palmer,  Esq.,  and 
portraits  of  Lord  Lake,  Lord  Gough, 
Sir  0.  Metcalfe,  Sir  H.  Durand,  Dwar- 
kanath  Thakur,  Bishop  Wilson,  Mr. 
Cameron,  Mr.  Wilberforce  Bird,  Sir 
Henry  Korman,  and  other  distinguished 
men.  There  are  also  full-length  por- 
traits of  the  Queen  and  Prince  Albert, 
presented  by  Her  Majesty  to  the  city 
of  Calcutta. 

Opposite  the  Hall,  about  60  yds.  off, 
is  a  oronze  statue  of  Lord  William 
Bentinck,  with  an  inscription  by  Lord 
Macaulay,  and  close  by  is  a  statute  of 
Sir  Stuart  Bayley,  a  former  Lieutenant 
Governor. 

The  Legislative  Council  Office  is 
close  by  to  the  N.W.  The  S.  front  is 
adorned  with  Corinthian  columns. 

The  High  Court  is  after  the  model 
of  the  town  hall  at  Ypres.  The  Chief 
Justice's  Court  is  in  the  S.W.  comer. 
The  Court  of  First  Instance  is  at  the 
S.E.  comer.  In  the  E.  face  is  the 
Barristers'  Library.  The  Attorneys' 
Library  is  in  the  E.  corner ;  and  here 
is  a  portrait  of  Justice  Norman.  In 
the  Court  of  First  Instance,  which  is 
also  used  as  a  Criminal  Court  when 
required,  are  portraits  of  Sir  Wm.  Bur- 
roughs, by  Lawrence,  1818  ;  Sir  Fred. 
Workman  M'Naghten,  by  Chinneiy, 
1824  ;  and  Sir  Elijah  Impey,  Knt,  by 
Kettle,  1778.  The  next  room  contains 
a  picture  of  Shambu  Nath  Pandit,  the 
first  Indian  Judge,  a  native  of  Cashmere. 
In  the  Chief  Justice's  Court  are  3  pic- 
,  tures— Sir  E.  Im|)ey,  by  Zoffany,  1782^ 

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56 


GALOUTTA  dTT 


Jniui 


in  red  robes,  standing ;  Sir  H.  Bossell, 
by  Ohinnerv,  1872,  robed  in  red  ;  and 
Sir  John  Anstmther,  1805.  In  the 
centre  of  the  £.  side  is  a  statue  of  Sir 
Edward  Hyde  East,  1821.  In  the 
Judges'  Library  are  six  pictures  — 
Justice  Trevor,  H.  B.  Harington,  and 
Sir  John  Colvin,  who  died  at  Agra. 
Opposite  are  Sir  Ed.  Ryan,  Sir  Robert 
Chambers,  and  Sir  Lawrence  Peel. 
There  is  a  earden  in  the  centre  quad- 
rangle, and  a  fountain. 

The  Secretariat. — This  noble  build- 
ing stands  on  the  N.  side  of  Dalhousie 
Square,  and  occupies  the  site  of  the 
Old  Writers*  Buildiugs,  where  so  many 
illustrious  Indian  statesmen  com- 
menced their  public  career. 

Calcntta  University  Senate  House. 
— On  the  N.W.  of  College  Square  are 
Presidency  College,  Hare  School,  and 
the  Calcutta  University.  The  Uni- 
versity Senate  House  is  a  grand  hall 
120  ft.  X  60  ft.,  in  which  the  Convoca- 
tions for  conferring  degrees  take  place. 
It  has  a  portico,  supported  by  6  lofty 
pillars.  Close  by  is  the  Hare  School, 
which  is  self-supportine, — ^itwas  erected 
out  of  the  surplus  fees  of  students. 
The  Hindu  College  was  founded  in 
1824,  and  opened  in  1827.  The  total 
cost  was  170,000  rs.  In  the  year  1855 
it  was  merged  in  the  Presidency  College. 
The  foundation  stone  of  the  new  build- 
ing of  this  College  was  laid  in  1872  by 
Sir  Qeorge  Campbell 

The  Indian  MiiBeiini,^  27  Chow- 
ringhee  Road,  is  an  immense  building, 
and  contains  a  very  fine  collection  of 
Fossils  and  Minerals,  a  Geological 
Gallery  with  rich  specimens,  and  a 
Library ;  but  the  most  important 
feature  is  the  Gallery  of  Antiquities, 
well  worth  inspection,  particularly  tiie 
Buddhist  remains  brought  from  the 
tope  at  Bharhut  (see  Fergusson's  Hist 
of  Arch.) ;  also  those  from  Muttra  and 
Gandhara  (Pai^jab),  etc  Some  display 
exquisite  feeling,  and  are  executed  with 
a  vigour  and  grace  worthy  of  the 
Greeks.  The  composition  of  the  figures 
and  the  representations  of  the  drapery 
MO  very  remarkable. 

1  Tbera  ti  «n  ezo^ent  catalogue. 


Amongst  other  fine  objects  from 
Muttra  notice  MS,  a  figure  of  Buddha, 
6  ft.  high,  with  a  halo  behind  the  head, 
carved  with  floral  devices.  In  the 
Gandhara  Collection  notice  amongst 
many  others  G81atog,7  seated  winmd 
male  human  figures;  G9S,  a  portion 
of  a  frieze  representing  6  naked  boys, 
quite  classicin  design ;  GIOS,  adomestio 
scene,  suggesting  the  Stable  at  Betii- 
lehem. 

The  archseologist  wiU  find  here 
selected  pieces  from  the  most  famous 
ancient  buildings  in  India.  There  are 
interesting  fragments  of  Buddhist  art 
from  the  caves  of  Orissa,  from  Sandu, 
and  Buddh  Gaya,  from  Muttra,  and 
Samath,  near  Benares,  and  great  num- 
bers of  other  sculptures. 

Amongst  the  Siwalik  Fossil  Remains, 
observe  the  Hysenarctosor  Hyena-Bear ; 
the  Amphicyon,  a  dog-like  animal  as 
largeas  the  Polar  bear ;  the  Machairodos 
or  Sabre- tooth  tiger,  whose  canine  teeth 
were  7  in.  long;  also  the  Siwalik 
cat,  which  was  at  least  as  large  as  a 
tiger, — it  is  distinguished  by  a  ridge 
running  along  the  upper  ijart  of  the 
skull.  Amongst  the  American  Eden- 
tata remark  the  Megalonvz,  long-nailed 
animal,  and  the  Glyptodon,  a  cigantic 
armadillo,  whose  armour  was  afi  of  one 
piece,  so  tiiat  it  could  not  roll  itself  up. 
There  is  the  skeleton  of  a  Megatherium 
brought  from  America,  and  one  of  an 
elephant  11  ft  high  ;  also  of  Hodson*s 
antelope,  whose  two  horns  seen  in  a  line 
were  tnought  to  belong  to  a  miicom. 
Amongst  Siwalik  birds  there  are  the 
shank-bone  and  the  breast-bone  of  a 
wading-bird  as  big  as  an  ostrich.  This 
bird  has  been  called  the  Megaloscelomis, 
and  these  bones  are  the  only  ones 
belonging  to  this  species  existing  in 
the  world.  In  the  Upper  Palseonto- 
logical  Gallery  there  are  many  bones 
of  the  Dinornis.  Amongst  the  reptiles, 
remark  a  Ma^r  or  crocodile,  from 
Matlah,  18  ft  lone,  and  a  snake  of  the 
Ihrthon  species,  also  of  that  length. 
There  are  the  jaws  of  the  Balnnoptera 
indica,  which  must  have  belonged  to  a 
fish  between  80  ft  and  90  &  long. 
Observe  also  the  remains  of  the  Groco- 
dilus  crassidens,  an  extinct  species  of 
enormous  dimensions.     There  is  also 


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iipedmen  of  tbe  Siwalik  Oolossochelys, 
» gigantic  tortoise  of  prodigious  size. 
It  will  be  noticed  that  whereas  all  the 
8|iecie8  and  many  of  the  cenera  of  the 
Siwalik  Mammals  and  Birds  are  entirely 
different  from  those  inhabiting  the 
earth,  all  the  genera  of  the  Reptiles 
have  living  representatives  in  India. 
The  Collection  of  the  Fossil  Vertebrata 
of  the  Siwaliks  is  the  most  complete 
and  comprehensive  in  the  world. 

As  to  Minerals,  it  may  be  said  that 
most  of  the  diamonds  exhibited  are 
Indian,  from  Bnndelkund,  S.  India, 
and  Sambalpnr.  There  are  also  models 
of  tbe  most  celebrated  diamonds,  such 
as  the  Regent,  the  most  perfect  brilliant 
ia  existence,  the  Koh-i-Nur,  the  Great 
Niiam,  etc,  all  of  which  were  obtained 
in  India.  Amount  the  Meteorites, 
remark  the  model,  ITo.  16,  of  one  which 
fell  on  the  23d  of  January  1870,  at 
Nedagolla,  6  m.  S.  of  Parbatipur,  in 
the  Madras  Presidency.  The  original 
weighed  over  10  lbs.  There  is  a 
portion  of  the  ori^nal  weighing  7  oz. 
260*8  CT.,  numbered  90,  in  the  collection. 
It  is  the  only  Indian  meteoric  iron  here. 

The  Economical  MuBemn. — Those 
who  desire  to  study  the  products  of 
the  country  and  see  the  finest  samples 
of  native  manufactures,  should  visit 
this  section  of  the  Museum.  It  occu- 
pies a  quadrangular  building  on  the 
Chowringhee  Road  facing  the  Maidaji. 
It  was  here  that  the  C^cutta  Inter- 
lational  Exhibition  of  1883-84  was 
held. 

The  Hint  is  at  the  W.  end  of  Nim- 
tolla  Street;  built  1824-30  (archit. 
Major  W.  N.  Forbes).  The  style  is 
Doric,  the  central  portico  being  a  copy 
in  half  size  of  the  Temple  of  Minerva 
it  Athens.  The  area  of  the  building 
lad  grounds  is  18}  acres. 

The  Dalhoosie  Institnte  stands  on 
^  S.  side  of  Dalhousie  Square,  and 
was  built  ''to  contain  within  its  walls 
statues  and  busts  of  great  men."  The 
fomdation-stone  was  laid  in  1866,  but 
the  entrance  portico  preceded  it,  having 
been  built  m  1824.  It  contains  a 
statue  of  the  Marquis  of  Hastings,  by 
Chan  trey. 


The  hall  is  lined  with  marble,  and 
measures  90  x  45  ft.  It  contains  statues 
of  the  ^eat  Marquis  of  Dalhousie,  and 
of  the  At  Hon.  James  Wilson,  and  a 
bust  of  Edward  £.  Yenables,  indigo 
planter,  Azimgarh,  all  three  by  SteeU, 
tLS.A.  Also  busts  of  Brig. -General 
Neil,  C.B.,  and  of  Sir  Henry  Havelock, 
by  Noble ;  and  of  Sir  James  Outram 
and  General  John  Nicholson,  who  led 
the  attack  upon  Delhi,  by  Foley. 

The  Bengal  Asiatic  Society  is  at  57 
Park  Street.  This  institution  wa* 
established  in  1784  by  Sir  William 
Jones  and  led  to  the  foundation  of 
the  Royal  Asiatic  Society  in  London. 
Visitors  can  be  elected  members.  The 
Asiatic  Researches  began  to  be  issued 
in  1788,  and  continued  to  be  published 
until  1839.  The  Journal  began  in 
1832,  and  firom  that  time  to  1839  both 
publications  were  issued.  The  curi- 
osities have  all  been  sent  to  the  Indian 
Museum,  where  the  Society  was  to  have 
had  rooms.  This  having  been  denied 
to  them.  Government  made  a  grant  to 
the  Society  of  IJ  lakhs  in  compensation. 
The  library  consists  of  15,000  volumes, 
and  there  is  a  large  collection  of  coins, 
copper-plates,  pictures,  and  busts. 

The  Post  Office  (opened  1870)  is  a 
fine  building.  It  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  S.  face  of  the  Old  Fort,  and  looks 
E.  on  Dalhousie  Square,  formerly  Tank 
Square,  and  S.  on  Koilah  Ghat  Street. 
It  cost  630,510  rs. ,  and  occupies  an  area 
of  103,100  sq.  ft.  At  the  S.E.  corner 
is  a  lofty  dome.  According  to  the 
Government  plan,  the  site  of  the  Black 
Hole  is  marked  by  the  third  and  fourth 
pillars  in  the  side  fronting  the  Square, 
counting  from  N.  to  S. 

The  Telegraph  Office  is  also  a  fine 
building.  It  stands  at  the  S.  comer 
of  Dalhousie  Square. 

Fort -William,  S.  of  the  Maidan, 
received  its  name  from  William  III. 
Its  site  was  changed  in  1757,  after 
the  battle  of  Plassey,  from  that  which 
is  now  occupied  by  the  Post  Office,  to 
the  river-bank,  where  Clive  commenced 
a  new  and  much  more  formidable 
fortress,  which  was  finished  in  1773, 
and  cost  £2, 000, 000.    It  is  an  irregular 

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octagon,  of  which  fire  sides  look  land- 
ward and  three  on  the  river.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  fosse  30  ft.  deep  and 
50  ft.  broad,  which  can  be  filled  from 
the  river.  There  are  now  two  regi- 
ments, one  English  and  one  N.  L,  and 
one  battery  of  artilleiy.  There  are  six 
gates— Chowringhee,  rlassey,  Calcutta, 
and  WatOT  Gate,  as  well  as  St  George's 
and  the  Treasury  Gate.  Opposite  the 
Water  Qate  is  the  Gwalior  Monument, 
erected  by  Lord  EUenborough,  in  1844, 
in  memory  of  the  officers  and  men  who 
fell  in  the  Gwalior  campaign  of  1848. 
It  was  designed  by  Colonel  W.  H. 
Goodwjm,  Beng.  Eng.  It  is  of  brick, 
faced  with  Jeypore  marble,  surmounted 
by  a  metal  cupola  made  from  guns 
taken  from  the  enemy.  In  the  centre 
the  names  of  those  who  fell  at  the 
battles  of  Maharajpur  and  Paniar  are 
engraved  on  a  sarcophagus.  There  is 
also  a  sallyport  between  Water  and  St. 
George's  Gates.  Entering  by  Chow- 
ringhee Gate,  past  the  Governor's  resid- 
ence, used  as  a  Soldiers*  Institute  and 
Garrison  School,  is  the  Fort  Church, 
St.  Peter's,  built  in  1835.  The  Catholic 
Chapel,  St.  Patrick's,  was  built  in  1857. 
The  Military  Prison  is  built  on  a  mas- 
sive storehouse,  on  which  is  an  inscrip- 
tion relating  to  the  amount  of  rice  and 
grain  deposited  there  by  the  authorities 
in  1782.  The  Arsfftud  is  worth  a  visit. 
The  Fort  commands  the  river,  and  is 
a  formidable  defence  to  Calcutta. 

The  remains  of  the  Old  Fort. —The 
first  Fort- William  lay  between  Banks- 
hall  Street,  now  Koilah  Ghat  Street, 
on  the  S.,  and  Fort  Ghat  Street,  now 
Fairlie  Place,  on  the  N.  Its  W.  side 
fronted  the  river.  80  ft.  W.  of  the 
Post  Office  is  all  that  remains  of  the 
S.  curtain  of  the  Fort, — a  row  of  arches 
10  ft  hiffh  in  the  walL  The  place  is 
now  used  as  a  workshop,  with  stables 
at  the  W.  end.  According  to  some 
authorities,  the  Black  Hole  was  at  the 
second  arch  where  you  enter. 

Metcalfe  Hall,  close  by  the  S.W. 
comer  of  Hare  Street,  was  founded  in 
honour  of  Sir  Charles  Metcalfe  by  public 
subscription.  The  design  is  copied 
from  the  portico  of  the  Temple  of  the 
Winds  at  Athens.  The  entrance  is  on 
the  £.  under  a  roofed-in  colonnade.  The 


building  contains  the  Public  library 
and  the  offices  of  the  Amcultural  and 
Horticultural  Society.  In  the  Library, 
which  has  passed  through  a  period  of 
shameful  neglect,  there  are  many  lare 
and  valuable  works. 

St  Paul's  Cathedral,  on  the  K  of 
the  Maidan,  is  about  1  m.  from  the  Fort 
(archit,  M^or  W.  N.  Forbes).  The 
style  is  Hindu  -  Gothic,  or  spurious 
Gothic  modified  to  suit  ^e  climate  of 
India.  In  the  vestry  of  the  Cathedral 
is  a  large  folio  MS.  volume  entitled 
"  History  of  the  Erection  of  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral,"  which  contains  a  plan  of 
the  Cathedral  at  p.  265.  Over  the 
porch  is  a  library,  left  to  the  public  by 
Bishop  Wilson,  and  here  is  an  ex- 
cellent bust  of  that  Bishop.  The  £. 
window  represents  the  Crucifixion, 
designed  bv  West.  It  cost  £4000,  and 
was  given  dv  the  Dean  and  Chapter  of 
Windsor.  It  was  intended  to  be  given 
by  George  III.  to  St  Gorge's  Cha^l, 
Windsor.  Beneath  it  are  mosaics. 
The  Communion  Plate  was  given  by 
the  Queen.  The  building  cost  £50,000, 
of  which  the  Bishop  gave  £20,000,  half 
of  which,  however,  went  to  endowment 
The  W.  central  window  is  a  memorial 
to  Lord  Mayo. 

On  the  1.  side  of  the  vestibule  is  a 
black  marble  tablet  to  16  officers  of  the 
BengEd  Engineers,  who  fell  during 
the  Indiaji  Kevolt  in  the  years  1857- 
58.  It  is  ornamented  with  16  bronze 
medallions,  representing  a  well-known 
and  gallant  incident  in  the  siege  of 
Delhi — ^the  blowing  up  of  the  Cashmere 
Gate  by  Lieutenant  Salkeld.  Next  is 
a  tablet  to  15  officers  who  fell  in  the 
Bhutan  campaign.  Next  is  a  very 
elaborate  and  peculiar  monument,  in 
memory  of  John  Paxton  Norman,  of 
the  Inner  Temple,  officiating  Chief 
Justice  of  Bengal,  who  was  assassinated 
on  the  steps  of  the  Town  Hall  when 
entering  the  High  Court  on  20th  Sep- 
tember 1871.  Next  is  a  tablet  to  7 
officers  of  the  68th  Regiment  N.I., 
<*who  died  during  the  Mutiny  of  the 
Native  Troops,  and  subsequent  opera- 
tions, from  1857  to  1859 ;  some  on  the 
field  of  battle,  some  by  the  hands  c^ 
their  own  followers,  others  from  disease; 
all  doing  their  duty." 


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Then  follows  a  tablet  to  Mr.  William 
Kitchie  of  tiie  Calcutta  Bar  and  Inner 
Temple,  a  member  of  the  Council  of 
the  Governor-General.  The  inscription 
on  the  tablet  is  by  Thackeray,  who  was 
I  cousin  of  Mr.  Ritchie's.  On  the  left 
it  a  tablet  to  Sir  H.  M.  Lawrence. 
The  tablet  is  adorned  with  a  medallion 
portndt  in  white  marble.  In  the  centre 
of  the  left  wall  of  the  passage  from  the 
vestibule  to  the  transepts  and  body  of  the 
dturch  is  a  monument  to  Lord  Elgin. 

In  the  S.K  comer  of  the  S.  transept 
is  the  tomb  of  Lady  Ccmniiig,  brought 
from  Barrackpur.  It  consists  of  a  base 
of  white  marble  with  a  sarcophagus, 
on  which  is  inlaid  a  cross  with  flowers. 

The  upper  part  of  the  steeple  fell 
dnnng  the  great  earthquake  of  12th 
June  1897. 

St  John's  Church,  the  Old  Cathedral, 
—To  the  W.  of  Church  Ijane  before 
coming  to  the  General  Post  Office. 
"Council  House  Street"  is  written  on 
the  S.  E.  gate  pillar.  The  compound  is 
shaded  with  trees.  Outside  the  church 
to  the  N.  of  the  W.  entrance  is  a 
domed  pavilion  about  50  ft.  high,  with 
twelve  pillars.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  in  commemoration  of  those  who 
fell  in  the  Bohilla  war,  but  strangely 
enough  there  is  no  inscription. 

The  W.  vestibule  has  on  the  1.  a 
Urge  picture  of  the  Last  Supper,  painted 
lod  presented  to  the  church  by  Sir  John 
Zoffany,  in  which  the  Apostles  are  all 
portraits  of  certain  well-known  inhabit- 
aots  of  Calcutta.  The  head  of  Our 
Smour  is  said  to  have  been  taken  from 
» Greek  clergyman,  called  Parthenio, 
lad  St.  John  from  Mr.  Blaquire,  the 
v^-known  police  magistrate.  In  this 
ebirch  and  its  compound  are  the  oldest 
lid  most  interesting  tablets  to  be  found 
ia  Calcutta. 

In  the  compound  in  the  pavilion, 
it  the  K.  end,  is  a  tablet  to  William 
^milton,  who,  in  1717,  having  cured 
^  Emperor  Farrukhsiyar,  obtained 
for  the  £.  I.  Company  the  right  of 
«K>rting  their  goods  free  of  duty, 
SM.  other  great  privileges. 

Close  to  this  is  a  tablet  to  Job  Char- 
nock,  one  of  the  first  Governors  of 
Bengal,  and  the  founder  of  Calcutta. 

A  few  yards  to  the  S.  is  the  tomb  of 


Admiral  Watson,  who  with  Clive  re- 
took Calcutta.  It  has  a  large  square 
base  supporting  an  obelisk,  inscribed 
to  his  memory. 

The  Old  Mission  Church.  —  This 
Church  is  called  the  Pooranah  Gin'ah, 
or  Old  Churchy  by  the  natives.  This, 
with  the  parsonage  and  the  office  of 
the  Church  Missionarv  Society,  is  in  a 
pretty  compound  in  Mission  Row.  It 
18  125  ft  long  from  E.  to  W.,  and  81  ft. 
10  in.  broad,  and  seats  450  persons.  It 
was  built  by  the  celebratea  missionary 
Johann  Zacharias  Kiemander,  who  was 
bom  at  Azted,  in  Gothland,  Sweden, 
in  1711,  and  educated  at  the  University 
of  Upsal.  Being  offered  a  post  as  mis- 
sionary, he  left  England  in  1758,  and 
opened  a  school  in  Calcutta.  His 
second  wife  on  her  death  left  valuable 
jewels,  with  which  he  founded  a  school. 
He  called  his  Church  Beth  Tephillah, 
"  House  of  Pi-ayer.**  When  blind  he 
was  deceived  into  signing  a  bond  which 
ruined  him.  The  church  was  seized  by 
his  creditors,  but  redeemed  by  Mr. 
Charles  Grant  for  10,000  rs.  He  then 
went  to  Chinsurah,  and  died  there  in 
1 799.  There  is  a  windowpresented  by 
Eiemander's  grandson.  There  is  a  good 
engraving  of  him  in  the  Mission  Room, 
with  an  inscription  in  German.  There 
are  many  interesting  tablets  in  the 
church,  particularly  one  to  Mr.  Charles 
Grant,  and  one  to  the  Rev.  Henry 
Martyn,  also  to  Bishop  Dealtry  of 
Madras,  to  Bishop  Wilson,  and  to  an 
Arab  lady  of  distinction  who  was  con- 
verted to  Christianity. 

The  steeple  was  so  seriously  injured  by 
the  great  earthquake  of  12th  June  1897, 
that  it  has  been  necessary  to  rebuild  it. 

Missions  of  the  Church  of  England. 
— The  Oxford  Mission,  42  Comwallis 
Street,  works  chiefly  among  the  high- 
caste  natives,  and  has  charge  of  Bishop's 
College  (in  Circular  Road),  a  Boys*  High 
School,  and  Industrial  School. 

S,P,G.,  headquarters  Bishop's  Col- 
lege, Lower  Circular  Road ;  Mission 
Church,  St.  Saviour's,  Wellesley  Square, 
with  a  Boarding  School. 

S.P,G.  Ladies^  AsaociaUon  have 
charge  of  the  Milman  Memorial  School 
for  Girls. 

Sisters  of  St,  John  (Clewer)  have 

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charge  of  the  Oovermnent  Ctoneral 
Hospital,  the  Medical  Staff  Hospital, 
the  Eden  Hospital,  and  the  Lady 
Caxming  Home  for  Nwraes.  Also  of 
native  mission-work  at  FeqnUputty  in 
the  rice-fields  3  m.  distant. 

The  Free  Churchqf  Scotland's  Missum, 
begun  by  Alexander  Duff  in  1830,  is 
conducted  from  the  Duff  College, 
Nimtola  Street,  the  Mission  houses 
2  Comwallis  Square,  and  the  Woman's 
Society's  Schools  in  Beadon  Street. 
The  Scottish  church  is  in  Wellesley 
Square. 

The  Scotch  Kirk,  St,  Andrew*8,  is 
situated  in  Radha  Bazaar.  It  is  c^led 
by  the  natives  Lai  Oirjah,  It  was 
opened  in  1818,  and  cost  £20,000. 
This  church  sends  a  representative  to 
the  General  Assembly  at  Edinburgh. 
It  seats  500  persons.  In  the  vestry 
there  is  a  portrait  of  Dr.  James  Bryce, 
the  first  minister,  by  Sir  John  Watson 
Gordon.  There  are  some  handsome 
monuments  within  the  church. 

The  first  Portuguese  came  to  Calcutta 
in  1689,  to  whom  the  English  granted 
a  piece  of  land  in  Portuguese  Church 
Lane  on  which  the  firiars  of  the  order 
of  St.  Augustin  erected  a  chapel 
in  1700.  Its  successor  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  was  built  in  1797. 
It  is  dedicated  to  the  Virgin  Mary  of 
the  Rosary. 

St.  Thomas's  Roman  Catholic 
Church. — A  handsome  building,  in 
Middleton  Bow,  not  far  from  the 
Indian  Museum ;  commenced  in  1841. 
Close  by  is  the  Convent  of  Our  Lady 
of  Loreto. 

The  Ghreek  Church. — Turning  to  the 
W.  down  Cannine  Street,  on  uie  way 
to  Burra  Bazaar,  tne  traveller  will  come 
to  the  Greek  Church,  built  in  1780  by 
subscription,  Mr.  Warren  Hastings 
heading  the  list  with  2000  rs. 

The  Armenian  Church  of  St,  Nazar- 
eth is  close  by.  It  is  on  the  rt.  of  the 
road  leading  to  Burra  Bazaar.  It  was 
founded  in  1724,  and  completed  in  1790. 

The  Brahma  SomaJ  is  the  reformed 
Theistic  oect  of  Hindus.  It  has  very 
little  hold  on  the  rural  population,  the 
few  members  being  generally  men  of 
good  social  position.  The  sect  was 
founded  by  Raja  Ram  Mohan  Rai  in 


1830.  In  1858  Eeshab  Chandra  Sen 
joined  the  Somaj,  being  then  20  years 
of  age.  In  1862  he  was  ordained 
minister  of  the  Calcutta  Brahma'Somaj. 
In  October  1865  his  secession  took  pUce, 
and  next  year  a  new  body  was  organised 
by  Eeshab,  entitled  the  Brahma  Sonuy 
of  India,  and  in  January  1868  the  first 
stone  was  laid  of  a  new  church  for  the 
progressive  Brahmas  or  Eeshab  Chan- 
dra Sen's  party.  Brahma  marriages 
being  illegat  in  1872,  on  the  application 
of  Keshab,  Lord  Mayo  passed  the 
Native  Marriage  Act,  which  enacts  that 
the  parties  must  be  unmarried,  the 
bridegroom  and  bride  must  have  com- 
pleted  the  age  of  18  and  14  years 
respectively,  must  not  be  related  within 
certain  degrees,  and,  if  under  21,  except 
in  the  case  of  a  widow,  must  have  the 
written  consent  of  parent  or  guardian. 

The  Mosqne  of  Prince  Ghnlam  Mu- 
hammad.— This  is  the  finest  Mosque 
in  Calcutta,  and  stands  at  the  comer 
of  DhuramtoUa  Street  and  may  be 
visited  when  driving  up  Chowringhee, 
from  which  it  is  conspicuous.  It  is 
inscribed,  ''This  Musjid  was  erected 
during  the  Government  of  Lord  Auck- 
land, G.C.B.,  by  the  Prince  Ghulam 
Muhammad,  son  of  the  late  Tipu  Sultan, 
in  gratitude  to  God,  and  in  commemora- 
tion of  the  Honourable  Court  of  Dir- 
ectors granting  him  the  arrears  of  hib 
stipend  in  1840." 

Belvedere,  the  Lt-Govemor's  Falace, 
— This  fine  building  stands  in  ex- 
tensive and  well-kept  grounds.  In 
the  entrance  hall  are  some  trophies  of  | 
Indian  arms,  and  full-length  portraits 
of  Sir  John  Grant  and  Sir  William  Grey. 
In  the  reception  room  are  portraits  of 
H.M.  the  Queen-Empress  and  of  Sir 
Charles  and  Lady  Elliott.  The  electrie 
light  is  worked  from  the  neighbouring 
jaiL  At  the  spot  which  is  now  the  "V^ 
entrance  of  Belvedere,  on  the  'AJipui 
road,  was  fought  the  dnel  between  War- 
ren Hastings  and  Sir  Philip  Francis^ 
in  which  the  latter  was  wounded. 

Bace-conrse. — In  driving  to  Belv* 
dere,  the  Race-course  on  the  Maid«| 
will  be  passed  on  the  rt  The  ground  I 
perfectly  level,  and  the  distance  is  2  n 

Garden  Beach. — Here  used  to  \ 
numerous  fine  villas,  most  of  whid 


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BOTANICAL   GARDENS 


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were  built  between  1768  and  1780, 
BOW  utilised  by  steamship  companies 
md  cotton  and  jute  mills.  Just  above 
Garden  Reach  is  the  village  of  Eidder- 
par,  so  called  after  Mr.  Kyd,  who  con- 
stracted  the  Government  Dockyard, 
near  which  the  Port  Trust  has  excavated 
magnificent  new  Docks.  Between  1781 
and  1821  ships  were  built  at  the  Eid- 
derpnr  Docks,  at  a  cost  of  more  than 
£2,000,000,  and  in  1818,  the  Hastings, 
a  74-gun  ship  was  launched  there.  At 
the  W.  extremity  of  Garden  Beach,  or 
in  its  vicinity,  was  situated  the  small 
fort  of  'Aligarh,  and  opposite  to  it,  on 
the  other  bank  of  the  river,  was  the 
Fort  of  Tanna,  both  of  which  were 
taken  by  Clive  in  the  recapture  of 
Calcutta  in  1756. 

A  short  distance  to  the  E.of  'Alipur, 
and  immediately  S.  E.  of  Calcutta,  is  the 
saburb  of  BaJigimj,  within  the  limits  of 
the  S.  Suburbfm  Municipality,  and  the 
residence  of  many  Europeans.  Beyond 
is  ToUygimj  where  the  Calcutta  resi- 
dents have  laid  out  the  fine  grounds  of 
the  Athletic  Club. 

Kallghat,  celebrated  as  the  site  of  a 
temple  in  honour  of  the  goddess  Eali, 
the  wife  of  Shiva,  is  situated  on  the 
bank  of  the  old  bed  of  the  Ganges,  a 
few  m.  S.  of  Calcutta.  The  place 
derives  sanctity  from  the  legend  that 
when  the  corpse  of  Shiva's  wife  was 
cat  in  pieces  by  order  of  the  gods, 
lad  chopped  up  by  the  disc  {sudarsan 
Mera)  of  Vishnu,  one  of  her  fingers 
fell  on  this  spot.  The  temple  is 
■opposed  to  have  been  built  about 
three  centuries  ago.  A  member  of  the 
Sabama  Chandhu  family,  who  at  one 
time  owned  considerable  estates  in 
fids  part  of  the  country,  cleared  the 
^gle,  built  the  temple,  and  allotted 
194  acres  of  land  for  its  maintenance. 
A  man  of  the  name  of  Chandibar  was 
&e  first  priest  appointed  to  manage 
the  affairs  of  the  temple.  His  descend - 
aits  have  now  taken  the  title  of 
Haldar,  and  are  at  present  the  pro- 
prietors of  the  building.  They  have 
amassed  great  wealth,  not  so  much 
from  the  proceeds  of  the^  Temple  lands 
as  from  the  daily  offerings  made  by 
pH^rlms  to  the  shrine.  The  principal 
religious  festival  of  the  year  is  on  the 


second  day  of  the  Durca-puja,  when 
the  temple  is  visited  by  crowds  of 
pilgrims,  principally  belonging  to  the 
district  of  ^e  24  Parganas  and  the 
surrounding  villages. 

Crossing  Eidderpur  bridge,  the  visitor 
passes  the  garden  gate  of  what  was  once 
the  residence  of  the  late  King  of  Oudh. 

Excursions  in  the  vicinity  of 
Calcutta. 

The  Royal  Botanical  Gardens,  on 

the  W.  bank  of  the  river,  opposite 
'Alipur,  were  founded  in  1786,  on  the 
suggestion  of  General  Eyd,  who  was 
appointed  the  first  Superintendent. 
His  successors,  Roxburgh,  Wallich, 
Griffith,  Falconer,  Thomson,  Anderson, 
and  Eing,  have  all  been  celebrated 
botanists.  The  visitor  may  drive  to 
the  Gardens  from  Howrah  or  to  the 
Eing  of  Oudh's  place  and  cross  the  river 
Hooghly  in  a  boat.  The  area  of  the 
Gar&ns  is  272  acres,  with  river  frontage 
of  a  mile.  The  whole  of  them  may  be  seen 
without  descending  from  the  carriage. 
At  the  N.  W.  comer  is  the  Howrah  Gate, 
where  are  three  fine  trees — a  Ficus 
vndica  in  the  centre,  with  a  Ficus 
religiosa  on  either  side.  There  is  an 
avenue  of  Palmyra  palms  to  the  right 
of  the  entrance,  and  one  of  mahogany 
trees  to  the  left.  The  visitor  will  pass 
up  a  broad  road  in  the  centre,  leaving 
to  the  left  a  sheet  of  water,  and  then 
passing  through  casuarina  trees,  up 
which  are  trained  specimens  of  climb- 
ing palms,  will  enter  the  Palm  Planta- 
tion. A  canal  divides  this  from  the 
rest  of  the  Gardens,  crossed  by  three 
bridges.  Having  crossed  one  of  these, 
the  visitor  will  find  the  Flower  Garden 
on  the  right,  where  are  many  con- 
servatories and  two  orchid  houses: 
close  by  is  a  conservatory  200  ft. 
long,  and  a  monument  to  General  Eyd, 
from  which  a  broad  walk  runs  down 
to  the  River  Entrance.  Leaving  this 
to  the  left,  the  visitor  will  pass  along  a 
road  which  leads  to  the  Great  Banyan 
Tree  {Ficus  indica),  which  covers  ground 
nearly  1000  ft.  in  circumference.  On 
the  1.  of  an  avenue  near  the  ^eat  tree 
is  a  monument  to  Roxbui^,  with  a 
Latin  epitaph  by  Heber.    There  are 


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KXCtJRSlOKS  IN  TH»  VldNITt  Olf  OAliCtJTtA 


India 


also  tablets  in  the  Garden,  near  the  old 
conservatory,  to  Jack  and  to  Griffith. 

Sir  J.  Hooker,  in  his  interesting 
work  Himalayan  JoiimdU,  toL  i 
says  of  these  Grardens,  in  1848,  that 
"they  had  contributed  more  nsefol 
and  ornamental  tropical  plants  to  the 
public  and  private  gardens  of  the  world 
than  any  other  establishment  before  or 
since."  He  says  also,  "  that  the  creat 
Indian  Herbarium,  chiefly  formed  by 
the  Staff  of  the  Botanic  Gardens,  under 
the  direction  of  Dr.  Wallich,  and  distri- 
buted in  1829  to  the  principal  Mu- 


seums of  Europe,  was  the  most  valu- 
able contribution  of  the  kind  ever 
made  to  science ; "  and  adds,  **  that  the 
origin  of  the  tea-culture  in  the  Hima- 
layas and  Assam  was  almost  entirely 
the  work  of  the  Superintendent  of  the 
Gardens  at  Calcutta  and  Saharanpur." 
The  Superintendent  has  a  house  in  the 
Gardens.  Near  it  is  the  Herbarium,  or 
collection  of  dried  plants,  probably  the 
only  one  in  Asia  of  the  first  class. 
There  are  from  30,000  to  40,000  species 
represented  in  it.  Attached  to  the  Her- 
barium is  a  very  fine  Botanic  Library. 

dvU   Bngineerinc:  OoUege,   N.  of 

the  Gardens,  including  the  Bishop's 
CJoUege,  looks  well  from  the  river. 

Barraokpur  sta.,  called  by  the  natives 
Charnock,  from  Job  Chamock,  who 
resided  there  for  a  period.  The  journey 
may  be  made  by  rail,  carriage,  or  by 
river,  if  the  traveller  can  procure  the 
loan  of  a  steam  launch.  The  trip  up 
the  river  takes  3  hrs.,  and  is  interesting 
and  picturesque.  If  time  permits,  the 
river  excursion  may  pleasantly  be  ex- 
tended to  Serampore,  Chandemagore, 
Chinsurah,  and  Hooghly  (see  below). 

Just  before  reaching  Barrackpur, 
there  are  some  handsome  modem 
temples  on  the  L  bank,  then  comes 
the  oeautiful  park  (rt)  with  noble  trees 
and  a  small  pier  as  landing-place,  at 
which  the  Viceroy's  yacht  very  often 
lies.  At  300  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the 
house,  under  a  fine  tamarind  tree,  is  a 
polygonal  enclosure,  within  which  is 
a  wmte  marble  monument  to  Lady 
Cannine ;  it  replaces  that  removed  to 
the  Cathedral  at  Calcutta.  The  Hall, 
built  by  the  Earl  of  Minto  in  1818,  is 


100  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  house,  snd 
stands  within  a  colonnade  of  Corinthian 
pillars.  Over  the  outside  entrance  is 
a  black  slab,  inscribed — 

To  the  Memory  of  the  Brave. 

On  the  walls  are  four  Tablets  erected 
by  different  Governors-General  to  the 
memory  of  British  soldiers  who  fell  in 
Mauritius  and  Java  1810-11,  in  Isk  of 
France,  Maharajpur,  and  Paniar,  1843. 

The  House,  which  is  the  Viceroy's 
country  residence,  was  commenced  by 
Lord  Minto,  and  enlarged  to  its  present 
size  by  the  Marquis  of  Hastings.  It 
contains  some  interesting  pictures  of 
native  princes.  N.  of  the  park  is  Bar- 
rackpur Cantonment.  Iroops  were 
first  stationed  there  in  1772,  when  the 

Slaoe  received  its  name.  In  1824, 
uring  the  Burmese  War,  the  47th 
B.  N.  I.,  which  was  ordered  on  service, 
mutinied  here  on  the  30th  October, 
on  which  the  Commander-in-Chief,  Sir 
Edward  Paget,  proceeded  to  the  can- 
tonment with  two  European  regts.,  a 
battery  of  European  artillery,  and  a 
troop  of  the  Governor-General's  Body- 
guard. The  mutinous  regiment  was 
drawn  up  in  face  of  these  troops,  and 
was  ordered  to  march,  or  grouna  arms. 
The  Sepoys  refused  to  obey,  when  the 
guns  opened  upon  them,  and  throwing 
away  their  arms  and  accoutrements 
they  made  for  the  river.  Some  were 
shot  down,  some  drowned,  many  hanged, 
and  the  regt.  was  struck  out  of  the 
"Army  List."  Again,  in  1857,  there 
were  Mutiny  trouDles  here. 

Dum  Dam  sta.,  D.B.,  4^  m.  from  Cal- 
cutta. A  municipal  town  and  canton- 
ment. There  is  a  D.B.  in  the  sta. 
(31,578  inhab.)  It  was  the  headquarters 
of  the  Bengal  Artillery  from  1788  till 
1858,  when  they  were  removed  to 
Meerut ;  and  their  mess-house  is  now 
the  Soldiers'  Club,  and  is  known  as  tiie 
Outram  InstittUe,  A  bust  of  Sir  James 
Outram  stands  in  the  verandah. 

In  the  centre  of  the  Barrack  Square 
is  a  huge  gun  which  has  seen  some 
service.  Near  this  is  the  monument 
to  the  officers  and  men  killed  in  the 
Ehaibar  whilst  returning  from  Kabul 
in  1841.  The  Treaty  which  restored 
the  British  settlements  after  the  re- 


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9R0H  CAL0U1ITA  tTP  Tfifi  W.  BAKK  OF  THB  BOOGHLY 


63 


ttptme  of  Calcutta  was  signed  at  Dmn 
Dam.  There  is  an  En^h  Ohnioh 
-St.  Stephen's — a  Boman  Catholic 
Oiapel,  and  a  Wesleyan  ChapeL 
Theie  is  a  Small  Arm  AmmtmUion 
Factory,  which  is  guarded  by  British 
Infantry. 

Pdo,  cricket,  and  football,  snipe- 
shooting,  and  tank -fishing  are  the 
imusements  of  the  place.  Lord  Clive 
had  a  house  at  Dum  Dum,  and  Fairy 
Hall  was  occupied  by  Sir  Henry 
Lavnnce,  when  a  Lieutenant 

From  CcUctdta  by  the  E,  I,  Rly,  vp  the 
W,  bank  of  the  Rooghly. 

The  Howrah  sta.  is  on  the  W.  bank 
of  the  Hooghly  river,  200  yds.  beyond 
the  Hoo^ly  Bridge.  This  Imdge 
opens  on  Tuesdays  and  Fridays  for  two 
hours  for  ships  to  pass. 

Madras  tiT/ie  is  kept  at  all  stations, 
and  is  33  min.  behind  Calcutta  time. 
1st  and  2d  class  return -tickets,  avail- 
able for  two  months,  are  issued  to  any 
station  more  than  130  m.  distant,  at  the 
i&te  of  one  ordinary  fare  and  a  half. 
Holders  of  monthly  tickets,  on  arriving 
at  a  station  where  they  intend  breaking 
theirjoumey  must  have  inserted  on  their 
tickets  the  date  and  train  of  arrival, 
and  when  leaving  the  date  and  train 
of  departure.  Each  first^dass  passenger 
may  take  1^  maunds  of  luggage  free. 

24  m.  Hooi^y  sta.  {Hugli)  and  Chin- 
snrah  (2  m.  from  Hooghly  sta.,  see 
below),  are  bracketed  together  as  one 
in  the  Census  Report,  and  together 
cover  an  area  of  6  sq.  m.  The  pop.  is 
31,000.  Hooghly  town  is  the  adminis- 
trative headquarters  of  the  district  of 
the  same  name.  It  was  founded  by 
the  Portuguese  in  1647  a.d.,  when  the 
royal  port  of  Bengal,  Satgaon,  began 
V)  be  deserted,  owing  to  the  silting  up 
•f  the  Saraswati,  on  which  river  it 
was  situated.  They  commenced  by 
boilding  a  fortress  at  Ghol^hat,  close 
to  the  present  Hooghly  jail,  some 
vestiges  of  which  are  still  visible  in 
the  l»d  of  the  river.  When  Shah  Jehan 
came  to  the  throne,  complaints  were 
made  to  him  of  the  conduct  of  the 
Portujniese  at  Hooghly.  He  sent  a 
large  toTce  there ;  the  fort  was  besieged. 


and  after  4}  months  was  stormed. 
More  than  1000  Portuguese  were 
slain,  and  4000  men,  women,  and  chil' 
dren  were  captured.  Out  of  300  Portu- 
guese vessels  only  three  escaped.  The 
prisoners  were  sent  to  Agra,  and 
forcibly  converted  to  Islam.  Satgaon 
was  then  abandoned  for  Hooghly,  which 
was  made  the  royal  port,  and  was  also 
the  first  settlement  of  the  English  in 
Lower  Bengal.  The  E.  I.  Co.  established 
a  factory  there  in  1642,  under  2l  firman 
from  Sultan  Shtga*,  Governor  of  Ben- 
gal, and  second  son  of  Shah  Jehan. 
Thisj^rman  was  granted  to  Dr.  Bough 
ton,  who  had  cured  a  favourite  daughter 
of  the  emperor,  and  who  asked  tor  it 
when  desired  to  name  his  reward.  In 
1669,  the  Company  received  permission 
to  bring  their  ships  to  Hooghly  to  load, 
instead  of  transporting  their  goods  in 
small  vessels,  and  then  shipping  them 
into  large.  In  1685,  a  dispute  took 
place  between  the  English  at  Hooghly 
and  the  Kawab  of  Bengal,  and  the 
Company  sent  a  force  to  protect  their 
Hooghly  factories.  It  chanced  that  a 
few  English  soldiers  were  attacked  by 
the  Kawab's  men  in  the  bazaars,  and  a 
street  fight  ensued.  Colonel  Nicholson 
bombaided  the  town,  and  burned  500 
houses,  including  the  Company's  ware- 
houses, containing  goods  to  the  value 
of  £300,000.  The  chief  of  the  English 
factory  was  obliged  to  fly  to  Sutanuti, 
or  Chattanatti,  and  take  shelter  with 
some  native  merchants.  In  1742 
Hooghly  was  sacked  by  the  Marathas. 
The  principal  thing  to  be  seen  at 
Hooghly  is  the  Imambarah,  built  by 
Earamat ' Ali,  the  friend  and  companion 
of  Arthur  Connolly,  at  a  cost  of  800,000 
rs.  from  funds  bequeathed  by  Muham- 
mad Mushin,  who  owned  a  quarter  of 
the  great  Saiyadpur  estate,  in  Jessore 
District,  and  died  m  1814,  without  heirs, 
leaving  property  worth  £4500  a  jrear  for 
pious  purposes.  The  trustees  quar- 
relled, and  Government  assumed  charge 
of  the  estate.  During  the  litigation  a 
fund  of  £86,110  had  accumulated,  and 
with  this  the  Hoo^ly  College  was 
founded,  in  1836.  The  facade  of  the 
Imambarah  is  277  ft.x36  ft,  and  in 
its  centre  is  a  gateway  flanked  by  two 
I  minarets,  or  towers,  114  ft.  high.    On 

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EXCURSIONS  IN  THIB  VICINITY  OF  CALCUTTA 


Tndia 


either  side  of  the  door  are  inscriptions. 
Within  is  a  quadrangle,  150  ft.  x  80  ft, 
with  rooms  all  loond,  and  a  fine  hall, 
paved  with  marhle,  having  a  palpit 
with  sides  covered  with  plates  of  silver, 
and  a  verse  of  the  Koran  inscribed  in 
each  plate. '  The  library  was  bequeathed 
by  Earamat  'Ali,  but  a  few  books  have 
since  been  added  by  other  people. 
Amon^  them  are  787  MSS.,  including  a 
fine  fouo  Koran,  in  two  vols.,  given  by 
Prince  Ghulam  Muhammad,  son  of 
Tipu.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road 
from  this  Imambarah  is  the  old  Imam- 
barah,  buUt  in  1776-77.  In  the  W. 
comer  lie  the  remains  of  Karamat  'Ali, 
and  there  is  a  white  marble  tablet  placed 
acainst  the  wall,  with  an  extract  from 
the  Koran,  but  no  tomb. 

About  6  m.  from  Hooghly  is  ScUgaonif 
where  there  is  a  ruined  mosque, 
which,  together  with  a  few  tombs 
near  it,  is  the  only  remnant  of  the 
old  capital  of  Lower  Bengal.  It  was 
built  by  Sfidyad  Jamalu-din,  son  of 
Fakhru-din,  who,  according  to  in- 
scriptions in  the  mosque,  came  from 
Amol,  a  town  on  the  Caspian.  The 
walls  are  of  small  bricks,  adorned 
inside  and  out  with  arabesques.  The 
central  Mihrab  is  very  fine.  The 
arches  and  domes  are  in  the  later 
Pathan  style.  At  the  S.E.  angle 
are  three  tombs  in  an  enclosure. 
During  the  last  century,  the  Dutch 
of  Chmsurah  had  their  country  seats 
at  Satgaon,  to  which  they  walked, 
in  the  miMle  of  the  day,  to  dine. 
The  river  of  Satgaon,  up  to  Akbar*8 
time,  formed  the  N.  frontier  of 
Orissa^  and  Satgaon  flourished  for 
not  less  than  1500  vears.  Three  cen- 
turies ago  the  Hooghly  flowed  by  the 
town. 

ddnsurali  is  written  in  the  old 
Hindu  books,  Chuchimda  or  Chim- 
chuda.  Chinsurah  was  held  by  the 
Dutch  for  180  years,  and  ceded  by 
them  to  the  English  in  exchange  for 
Sumatra,  in  1826.  The  old  IhUeh 
Church,  of  brick,  is  said  to  have  been 
built  by  the  Governor  in  1678.  In 
it  are  14  escutcheons,  dating  from 
1685  to  1770,  and  the  inscriptions  are 
in  Dutch. 

The  Hooghly  College  is  to  the  S.  of 


the  church.  There  are  600  students, 
ihe  cemetery  is  1  m.  to  the  W.  of  the 
church ;  the  new  part  is  tolerably  well 
kept,  but;  not  so  the  part  where  the 
old  tombs  are.  Many  of  them  are  of 
Dutch  officials. 


Bandel  is  1  m.  N.  of  Hooghly  and 
28  m.  N.  of  Calcutta.  The  Portag^se 
monastery  and  church  was  built  in 
1599,  and  the  keystone  with  the  date 
was  erected  in  the  new  one,  which  is 
of  brick,  and  very  solidly  built  It  ia 
dedicated  to  Nossa  Senhora  di  Bosario. 
There  are  fine  cloisters  on  the  S.,  and 
a  priory,  in  which  is  a  noble  room  called 
St  Augustine's  HaU.  The  organ  is 
good.  The  church  was  founded  b^  the 
Augustinian  Missionaries,  demolished 
by  Shah  Jehan  in  1640,  and  rebuilt  by 
John  Gomez  di  Soti. 


Serampore  sta.  The  headquarters  ot 
the  subdivision  of  the  same  name  is 
on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hooghly,  oppo- 
site Barraokpur,  13  m.  from  Calcutta 
(24,440  inhab.)  Babu  Bholanath  Chan- 
dra, in  his  Travels  of  a  Hindu,  p.  6, 
says,  "  Serampore  is  a  snug  little  town, 
and  possesses  an  exceeding  elegance  and 
neatness  of  appearance.  The  range  of 
houses  along  the  river-side  makes  up  a 
gay  and  brilliant  picture.  The  streets 
are  as  brightly  clean  as  the  walks  in. a 
garden,  but  time  was  when  Serampore 
had  a  busy  trade,  and  22  ships. cleared 
from  this  small  port  in  three  months. " 
Its  chief  claim  to  historical  notice  arises 
from  the  fact  that  it  was  the  scene  of  the 
apostolic  labours  of  Carev,  Marshman, 
Ward  and  Mack.  The  zeal  and  successes 
of  the  Baptist  missionaries  of  Seram- 
pore, at  the  beginning  of  this  century, 
form  one  of  the  bri^test  episodes  of 
Evangelistic  efforts  in  India.  From 
its  press  proceeded  40  translationa  of 
the  Scriptures.  Serampore  was  for- 
merly a  Danish  settlement,  and  was 
then  called  FredericksnacRLr.  The  fine 
mansion  of  the  Danish  Governor  now 
forms  the  Courts  of  Justice  and  admini- 
strative offices.  In  1845  a  treaty 
was  made  with  the  Kin^  of  Den- 
mark, by  which  all  the  Danish  posses 


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lions  in  India,  namely,  Tranquebar, 
Fredericksnagar,  and  a  small  piece  of 
ground  at  Buasore  were  transferred  to 
the  R  I.  Company  for  £125,000. 

The  old  Danid  Church  (1805)  cost 
18,600  rs.,  of  which  1000  were  given 
by  the  Marquis  Wellesley.  There  are 
tablets  in  memory  of  the  above- 
mentioned  Baptist  missionaries.  Their 
tombs  are  in  the  native  Christian 
cemetery,  on  the  right  hand  of  the 
road  from  the  railway  station.  The 
church  is  now  Anglican. 

The  College  is  a  handsome  building 
<Hi  the  banks  of  the  river,  and  com- 
mands a  fine  view  across  it,  over  Bar- 
rackpur  Park.  The  porch  is  supported 
by  SIX  pillars  60  ft  high.  On  the 
ground  floor  are  the  Lecture-rooms,  and 
in  the  floor  above,  the  Great  Hall,  which 
is  103  ft.  long,  and  66  ft.  broad.  In 
the  Library  are  the  following  portraits : 
1.  Madame  Grand,  by  Zofiany ;  she 
afterwards  married  Talleyrand  (see 
Mdme.  de  Remusat's  Memoirs) ;  2.  Dr. 
Marshman,  by  ZoffSany;  8.  Frederick 
VL  of  Denmark  ;  4.  Frederick's  wife, 
Qneen  of  Denmark ;  5.  copy  of  a 
Madonna  by  Raphael ;  6.  Rev.  W.  Ward, 
by  Penny.  The  library  contains  the 
first  editions  of  Carey  and  Marshman*s 
forty  translations  of  the  Bible;  also 
some  curious  Sanscrit  and  Thibetan 
manuscripts,  and  an  account  of  the 
Apostles  drawn  up  by  Xavier's  nephew 
for  Akbar.  In  the  College  compound 
is  the  house  in  which  Carey  lived  and 
died,  now  inhabited  by  the  Principal  of 
t^  College.  Before  reaching  the  Col- 
lege the  Mission  Chapel  is  passed,  with 
manorial  slabs. 

The  fine  mansion  next  to  the  chapel, 
vhich  was  the  common  centre  of  the 
Sounpore  brotherhood,  with  all  Carey's 
pak  and  botanic  garden,  is  now  the 
nperty  of  the  India  Jute  Company, 
bro,  from  1835  to  1875,  the  weekly 
hiend  €f  India  was  edited. 

Qhaademagore  sta.  3^  The   French 

laiie  a  settlement  here  in  1673,  and 

infte  time  of  Dupleix  more  than  2000 

bilk  houses  were  built  in  the  town, 

«od  a  considerable  trade  was  carried 

OB.    In  1757  the  town  was  bombarded 

l^  the  English  fleet  under  Admiral 

Watson,  and    captured.    The   fortifi- 

[India] 


cations  were  demolished,  but  in  1763 
the  town  was  restored  to  the  French. 
In  1794  it  was  again  captured  by  the 
English,  and  held  till  1815,  when  it 
was  again  restored  to  the  French,  and 
has  remained  in  their  possession  ever 
since.  The  railway  station  is  just 
outside  the  French  boundary. 

Chandemagore  receives  from  the 
English  800  chests  of  opium  on  con- 
dition that  the  inhabitants  do  not 
eneaffe  in  the  manufacture  of  that 
article.  A  church  stands  on  the  bank 
of  the  river,  built  by  Italian  mission- 
aries in  1726.  Between  Chandemagore 
and  Chinsurah  is  Biderra^  where  the 
English  obtained  a  decisive  victory 
over  the  Dutch.  It  is  said  that  the 
English  commander  was  aware  that  his 
nation  and  the  Dutch  were  at  peace, 
and  wrote  to  Clive  for  an  order  in 
council  to  fight.  Clive  was  playing 
cards,  and  ^rote  in  pencil:  "Dear 
Forde,  fight  them  to-day,  and  I  will 
send  you  an  order  to-morrow. — Thurs- 
day nth,  1.30  P.M." 


ROUTE  2 
Bombay  to  Attrangabad  and  thb 
Caves  of  Ellora  by  Nandgaon  sta. 

Bombay  (Victoria  term.)  to  Nandgaon 
sta.  178  m.  by  the  G.  I.  P.  Rly.  The 
mail  tonga  runs  dail^  from  Nandgaon 
to  Aurangabad,  a  distance  of  56  m. 
in  9  hours — a  fairly  good  road.  Con- 
veyances to  the  Ellora  Caves  can  be  had 
only  by  special  arrangement  with  the 
mail  contractor  at  Nandgaon. 

Deogaon,  D.B.  3^  (36  m.  from 
Nandgaon). 

The  road  to  Roza  and  the  caves  leaves 
the  main  road  from  Aurangabad  4^  m. 
beyond  Deogaon,  from  which  point 
the  caves  are  4}  m.  distant.  Some 
persons  prefer  to  go  first  direct  to 
Aurangabad,  seeing  Daulatabad,  the 
caves,  and  other  places  of  interest  on 
the  return  journey. 

56  m.  Aurangabad,  D.B.  This 
thriving  city  (pop.  8680),  which  has  a 
considerable  trade  in  cotton  and  wheat, 
was  first  called  Khirki,  and  was  founded 
in  1610  by  Malik  Ambar,  the  head  of 
the  Abyssinian  faction  in  the  Ahmad- 
nagar  state.     The  t^wn  lies  to  the  E., 

Digitized  by  Google     ^ 


ROUTE  2.   BOMBAY  TO  AURANGABAD 


India 


the  cantonment  and  the  road  to  Daula- 
tabad,  Koza,  and  EUora  to  the  W.  300 
yds.  S.  of  the  Old  Cemetery,  1  m.  N.E.  of 
the  city,  is  the  grand  HauBOleum  of 
Babi'a  Dazraaii  daughter  of  Aurangzib. 
The  great  door  at  the  gateway  is  plated 
with  brass,  and  along  the  edge  is 
written,  "This  door  of  the  noble  mauso- 
leum was  made  in  1089  a.h.,  when 
Atau'Uah  was  chief  architect,  by  Haibat 
Rai."  Near  the  inscription  is  an  in- 
finitesimally  small  figure,  which  is  said 
to  be  a  bird,  indistinctly  carved,  and 
there  is  a  similar  carving  on  the  door 
of  the  mausoleum  itself.  It  is  a  com- 
mon joke  amongst  natives,  when  any 
man  asserts  that  he  has  been  to  Rabi'a's 
mausoleum,  to  ask  if  he  saw  the  biixi 
there,  and  if  he  answers  in  the  negative, 
to  dispute  his  having  seen  the  mauso- 
leum at  all.  In  the  garden  is  a  long 
narrow  basin  of  water,  in  which  foun- 
tains used  to  play,  and  on  either  side 
of  the  water  is  a  walk  and  ornamental 
wall.  In  the  wall  of  the  mausoleum 
is  a  second  but  much  smaller  door,  only 
6  ft.  high,  plated  with  brass,  where  the 
second  bird  is  pointed  out.  The  carving 
of  the  flowers  on  this  door  is  curious, 
and  that  of  the  dragons  particularly  so, 
and  both  are  extremely  like  Japanese 
work.  Q'he  bird  is  on  the  edge  of  the 
door  close  to  the  upper  central  knob. 
The  cenotaph  is  endosed  in  an  octa- 
gonal screen  of  white  marble  lattice- 
work exquisitely  carved,  and  stands  on 
a  raised  marble  platform.  The  place 
for  the  slab  is  empty,  and  nothing  but 
earth  appears.  This  is  much  approved 
by  Moslems,  as  showing  humility.  The 
Government  of  the  Nizam  has  gone  to 
great  expense  in  restoring  this  mauso- 
leum. The  main  fault  of  this  otherwise 
beautiful  building,  which  is  compared 
to  the  Taj,  is  the  want  of  sufficient 
height  in  the  entrance  archway.  Ob- 
serve the  cuiious  roof  of  the  gateway 
of  the  mausoleum.  Below  the  right 
corner  of  the  platform  is  a  second  tomb, 
said  to  contain  the  remains  of  Rabi'a 
Durrani's  nurse.  There  is  no  inscnp- 
tion.  In  the  gallery  above  the  tomb  is 
a  marble  door  exquisitely  carved.  To 
the  W.  of  the  mausoleum  is  a  mosque 
of  brick  faced  with  cement  (chuTumi)  of 
tt  dazzling  whiteness.    The  pavement  is 


covered  with  tracings  of  prayer-carpets. 
The  mimbarj  or  pulpit,  is  of  marUe. 

The  Pan  Chakki  or  water-mill  is 
perhaps  the  prettiest  and  best  kept 
shrine  in  this  part  of  India.  It  isatu- 
ated  on  the  rt.  of  the  road  from  the 
cantonment  to  the  Begampura  bzidge, 
and  on  the  very  edge  of  the  Eham»  the 
river  of  Aurangabad.  To  enter,  turn  to 
the  rt.  into  a  beautiful  garden  by  the 
side  of  a  brimming  tank  of  clear  water, 
full  of  fish  from  1  ft.  to  3  ft.  long,  of 
a  species  called  Kfiol,  This  tank  over- 
flows into  a  lower  one,  and  that  again 
into  a  narrow  conduit.  The  saint  en* 
tombed  here  (see  below)  is  Baba  Shah 
Muzaflar.  He  was  a  Chishti  (member  of 
a  theosophical  sect  amon^  the  Moham- 
medans), and  came  originally  from 
Bokhara.  He  was  the  spiritual  pre- 
ceptor of  Aurangzib.  His  successor  is 
still  in  charge  of  the  place.  Beyond 
the  first  tank  and  the  ornamental 
garden  is  a  second  and  much  larger  one. 
It  is  entirely  supported  on  vaults,  on 
two  rows  of  massive  pillars.  The  weight 
of  the  great  body  of  water  i-esting  on 
them  is  enormous,  and  altogether  it  i8 
a  remarkable  work.  Below  is  a  Roble 
hall  reached  by  steep  steps  down  to  the 
level  of  the  river.  On  the  rt.  of  the 
second  tank  is  a  fine  mosque,  the  roof 
of  which  is  supported  by  four  rows  of 
massive  pillars.  In  two  of  the  rows 
the  pillars  are  of  teak,  and  in  two  of 
masonry.  At  the  S.W.  corner  of  this 
mosque,  in  a  little  garden,  is  the  Tomb 
of  the  saint.  It  is  of  beautiful  light- 
coloured  marble,  but  very  diminutive. 

After  leaving  the  Pan  Chakki,  drive 
i  m.  N.  to  the  Mecca  Gate  of  the  city, 
and  the  Mecca  Bridge^  which  are  prob- 
ably  some  centuries  old.  The  gateway 
from  the  top  of  the  parapet  is  42  ft 
above  the  road  whicli  passes  over  tb< 
bridge.  The  flanking  towers  are  snr 
mounted  by  domes.  Inside  thegate  then 
is  a  black  stone  mosque  built  by  Malil 
Ambar.  In  the  centre  is  a  niche  with  th< 
Divine  Name,  and  * '  Victory  is  near.' 
Above  that  is  the  Kaliviafiy  and  sonw 
verses  of  the  Koran  written  in  difficull 
T-Mgr^ra  (ornamental  characters  and  use* 
in  royal  signatures).  Close  by  is  a  reces 
with  a  bell-shaped  ornament.  Thisi 
perhaps  the  oldest  mosque  in  the  city. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  2.   OAVES  OP  AURANGABAD 


67 


The  Goyenunent  Offices  are  2  m. 

to  the  S.E.  of  the  cantonment,  and 

in  or  near  the  Arkilla  or  citadel  built 

by  Aorangzib.     This  spot  not  long  ago 

was  entirely  covered  with  cactus  and 

jungle,  the  haunt  of  hyenas  and  other 

wild  animals.      It  was,  however,  the 

site  of  gentlemen's  houses  in  the  reign 

(^  Anrangzib,  when  Aurangabad  was 

the  capital  of  the  Deccan.    Sir  Salar 

Jang  ordered  the  site  to  be  cleared, 

and  when  this  was  done,  numerous 

reservoirs,  fountains,  and  other  works  of 

interest  were  discovered.    These  have 

been  repaired,  and  the  wilderness  has 

literally  been  changed  into  a  blooming 

garden.     On  the  high  ground  looking 

down  upon  the  Revenue  Settlement 

Officer's  Rooms,  and  on  those  of  the 

Municipality,  is  a  fine  hall,  and  in  iront 

of  it  is  a  beautiful  tank  of  most  jwil- 

locid   water.      Behind  the  hall  is  a 

well-an*anged    garden,     and    in   rear 

of   that   again   is   the  BaraMarif  or 

Oovemme7U  RovsCf  with  a  fine  fountain 

in  front.     The  facade  of  the  Barahdari 

is  ornamented  with  lace-like  patterns 

in  white  chunam .    Only  one  archway  of 

Anrangzib's  citadel  remains,  but  here 

53  great  princes,  like   the  Maharajas 

of  Jeypore  and  Jodhpnr,  attended  the 

court  of  the  Emperor  with  thousands 

of  armed  retainers,  and  Aurangabad 

was  then  the  Delhi  of  the  South.     As 

toon  as   Aurangzib  died  the  princes 

departed,    and    Aurangabad    sank    at 

once  into  comparative  insignificance. 

The  Jmnma  Hnsjid  is  on  the  right 

of  the  road,  amid  a  grove  of  some  of 

the    finest     trees    in    India.       One 

B&mense  Ficus  indica  stands  close  on 

the  road  and  shades  some  300  ft.  of 

it    The  Mosque  is  low  and  so  are  the 

ninarets.     But  the  fa9ade  is  rendered 

itriking  by  an  ornamental    band   of 

<*rving  2   ft.  broad  along  the  whole 

init     Over  the  central  niche  are  the 

taiimah  and  inscriptions  in  Tughra 

■nting  as  in  Malik  Ambar's  Mosque. 

^  mosque  is  wonderfully  well  kept, 

*ri  there  is,  what  is  not  seen  anywhere 

<^  a  net  covering  the  entire  fa9ade, 

fithat  no  birds  or  other  creatures  can 

•ter.     Malik  Ambar  built  half  this 

teosque,  and  Aurangzib  the  other  half. 

The  Caves  of  Aurangabad  are  beyond 


L 


the  N.  outskirts  of  the  city  near  Rabf  a 
Durrani's  mausoleum,  from  which  it  is 
necessary  to  ride  or  walk  to  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  which  are  here  about  500  ft.  high. 
The  ground  at  the  base  of  the  hill  is 
very  rough,  and  intersected  with  deep 
ravines.  The  visitor  will  have  to  climb 
over  a  very  rough  and  slippery  rock 
about  250  n.  up  to  the  caves.  He  will 
then  see  the  mausoleum  of  Rabi'a  1} 
m.  to  the  S.E.  Steps  lead  to  the 
entrance  of  Cave  No.  L  On  the  left 
of  the  door  is  Buddha  in  the  teaching 
attitude,  that  is,  holding  the  little 
finger  of  the  left  hand  between  the 
thumb  and  forefinger  of  the  right. 
A  Gandharva  is  nying  nearly  over 
Buddha's  head.  On  ttie  left  is  the 
Padmapani,  "lotus  holder,"  an  attend- 
ant. The  other  attendant  on  the  right 
is  Vajrapani,  "lightning  holder." 
Above  the  side  door  on  tne  left  are 
three  Buddhas,  two  of  which  are  cross- 
legged,  and  the  third  is  in  the  teaching 
attitude  with  the  usual  attendants.  On 
the  right  of  the  main  entrance  are 
Buddha  and  three  figures  similar  to 
those  on  the  left.  A  lai^e  figure  of 
Buddha,  of  black  stone,  6  ft.  high,  sits 
facing  the  entrance  to  the  shrine.  A 
circle  in  relief  on  the  wall  represents  a 
halo  round  his  head.  Padma  and  Vajra 
are  one  on  either  side  as  usual,  with 
Gandharvas  over  their  heads.  This 
cave  has  been  whitewashed,  and  the 
white  patch  on  the  side  of  the  hill 
can  be  seen  &om  a  mile  off  in  the  plain 
below.  There  is  an  ornament  like 
prongs  round  the  archway. 

Cave  No,  ;^  is  a  Ohaitya  Hall  with  t 
semicircular  roof  with  stone  ribs,  like 
the  Yishwakarma  Gave  at  EUora,  and 
a  triforium.  It  consists  of  a  nave  15 
ft.  long  on  either  side,  besides  a  bow  or 
curve  17  ft.  long.  Near  the  end  of  the 
nave  there  is  a  dagoba  with  a  "Tee" 
very  perfect.  The  ribs  of  the  roof  are 
13  ft.  above  the  cupola  of  the  dagoba. 
Canje  No.  5  is  a  vihara.  The  outer 
verandah  is  ruined.  The  centre  hall 
is  portioned  off  as  usual  by  twelve 
pillars,  with  plain  bases,  shafts,  and 
brackets.  There  is  the  usual  vestibule 
and  sanctuary.  The  central  Buddha 
is  9  ft.  6  in.  hi^h.  On  either  side  are 
seven  worshipping  figures.     Cave  No» 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


68 


ROUTE  2.   BOMBAY  TO  AURANGABAB 


India 


^  is  a  small  vihara.  Buddha  is  seated 
on  a  Singhascm  in  the  teaching  attitude. 
All  round  on  the  wall  are  smaller 
Buddhas.  The  sanctuary  is  8  ft.  4  in. 
square.  The  Yajrapani  has  a  da- 
goba  in  his  crest,  and  two  figures  of 
Buddha.  The  Nagas,  known  by  their 
snake-heads,  stand  at  the  sides  of  the 
two  attendants.  A  good  example  of 
the  dagoba  crest  or  Tee  is  in  the 
corridor  to  your  right  as  you  enter,  after 
passing  the  first  division,  about  the 
middle  in  point  of  height.  Cave  No.  5 
is  higher  up  in  the  face  of  the  cliff,  and 
is  not  worth  the  trouble  of  a  visit. 
These  caves  are,  as  is  generally  the  case, 
in  the  centre  of  a  semicircular  ridge,  as 
at  DUora.  At  the  distance  of  300  yds. 
from  the  foot  of  the  hill  on  the  descent 
is  reached  a  beautiful  cluster  of  trees, 
of  which  the  principal  are  two  im- 
mense specimens  of  the  Indian  fig  tree. 

There  are  man  y  other  places  of  interest 
to  be  seen  in  the  hills  around.  The 
journey  to  Daulatahad  from  Av/rcmga- 
badf  9  m.,  can  be  done  in  one  hour  and 
a  half  in  a  tonga  with  two  good  horses. 
3  m.  from  Aurangabad  is  the  village  of 
MUmitha, 

It  will  be  necessary  to  aiTange  before- 
hand for  a  relay  of  horses  at  Dautata- 
bad  to  get  on  to  Roza  {the  tomb),  7  m. , 
the  same  day.  Near  Daulatabad  a 
ghat  or  steep  nill  is  passed,  which  tries 
the  horses  very  much,  and  sometimes  it 
is  necessary  to  have  coolies,  or  labourers, 
to  assist  them.  Permission  must  be 
obtained  from  the  British  station  staff- 
officer  to  see  the  fort  of  Daulatabad. 

Daulatabad  (Deogiri)  a  13th  cent, 
fortress,  8  m.  from  Aurangabad,  is 
built  on  a  huge  isolated  conical  rock  of 
granite  about  500  ft.  high,  with  a  per- 
pendicular scarp  of  from  80  to  120  ft  all 
round  the  base.  At  the  base  is  a  strag- 
gling patch  of  houses  and  huts,  which 
IS  all  that  remains  of  the  native  town. 
It  is  defended  by  a  loop-holed  wall 
with  bastions  which  on  the  E.  side  joins 
the  scarp  of  the  fort.  At  the  bottom 
of  the  scarp  is  a  ditch,  before  reaching 
which  four  lines  of  wall,  including  the 
outside  wall  of  the  town,  must  be 
passed.  The  fosse  can  be  crossed 
only  in  one  place  by  a  stone  causeway, 
so  narrow  that  only  two  men  can  obtain 


a  footing  on  it  abreast,  and  commanded 
on  the  side  near  the  fort  by  a  battle- 
mented  outwork.  The  only  means  of 
ascending  the  rock  is  through  a  narrow 

f)assage  hewn  in  the  solid  stone,  and 
eading  to  a  large  vault  in  the  interior. 
From  this  a  ramp  or  gallery,  gradually 
sloping  upwards,  and  also  excavated 
in  the  solid  rock,  winds  round  in  the 
interior.    The  first  part  of  the  ascent 
is  easy ;  towards  the  end  it  is  difl&ciilt 
The  height  of  the  passage   averages 
from  10  to  12  ft,  with  an  equal  breadth, 
but  it  is  so  dark  that  torches  are  requi- 
site.    The  entrance  is  on  the  £.  side, 
past  2  gates  armed  with  very  formidable 
spikes  of  iron  to  resist  elephants ;  at 
the  third  gate  there  are  3  Hmdu  pillars 
and  3  pilasters  on  either  side.    Facing 
this  third  ^ate  is  a  bastion  56  ft.  high. 
It  has  a  balcony  or  gallery  with  Hindu 
curved    supports,   and  is   called  the 
Nakar  Khana,  or  music  gallery.     It 
has  a  small   window  on  which  are 
carved  in  alto-relievo  two  leopards  like 
those  in  the  royal  shield  of  England. 
The  fourth  archway  faces  to  the  E., 
and  beyond  it  on  the  ri^ht  is  an  old 
Hindu  temple,  with  a  broken   lamp 
tower  13  ft.  high.    On  the  left  of  the 
road  is  a  smul  ehattri,  or  pavilion, 
which  is  the  dargah  of  the  Pir-i-Eadus. 
Passing  along  the  side  of  a  tank,  and 
turning  to  the  1.,  there  is  an  entrance 
to  a  mosque  which  was  first  a  Jain 
temple  and  then  a  place  of  worship 
of  Kali.      Prayers  are  said   here   in 
Ramazan,  and  at  the  Bakri  'Id,  other- 
wise it  is  not  used.     On  the  rt   of 
the  central  dome,  looking  W.,  in  a 
niche,  is  a  stone  covered  with  a  San- 
scrit inscription,  whitewashed  over  and 
placed  on  its  side.     Groing  out  of  the 
temple  to  the  N.  is  a  minaret  said 
to  have  been  erected  by  the  Moham- 
medans  in  commemoration  of  their 
first  capture  of  the  place.     It  was  built 
in  1435,  according  to  a  Persian  inscrip- 
tion in  one  of  the  chambers  in  the 
foundation.     From  the  window  above 
the  third  gallery  an  admirable  view  is 
obtained.     The  fifth  gateway  leads  to 
a  platform,  which  goes  partly  round 
the  hill,  and  has  on  the  rt  a  building 
called   the    Chini  Mahal,    in    which 
Hasan    Shah,  last  king  of  Golkonda, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ftOUITE  2.      BOZA  OH  RHULDABAD 


69 


wtt  imprisoned  for  thirteen  years. 
Ascend  here  to  a  bastion,  on  which  is 
a  eamum  indented  in  two  places  by 
cannon  balls.  It  is  caUed  Eil'ah  Shi- 
kan,  leveller  of  forts,  and  is  21  ft  10 
in.  long,  and  the  mnzzle  has  a  diameter 
of  8  in.  It  was  made  by  Muhammad 
Hasan  the  Arab.  The  really  difficult 
and  in  former  times  impregnable  part 
of  the  fortress  is  now  entered.  Cross- 
ing a  narrow  modem  stone  bridge,  con- 
structed to  replace  the  movable  planks, 
that  formerly  were  the  only  means  of 
entering,  the  ditch  that  surrounds  the 
citadel  is  now  passed.  To  the  1.  of  the 
bridge  and  overlooking  the  moat  are 
the  extensive  ruins  of  a  Hindu  palace 
with  remains  of  some  excellent  carving 
in  wood  and  stone.  Continuing  to 
ascend  by  a  flight  of  steps  and  rock- 
cat  passages  at  the  place  where  the 
tufa  and  limestone  strata  join,  and 
eventually  emerging  from  a  tunnel,  we 
reach  a  platform,  and  look  out  over  a 
garden  with  immense  nests  of  hornets 
hanging  from  the  branches  of  the  trees. 
Passing  on  we  come  to  an  opening 
covered  over  with  an  iron  shutter  20 
ft.  long  and  1  in.  thick,  made  in  ribs 
(part  of  it  is  gone),  which  in  case 
of  siege  was  heated  red  hot,  so  that 
if  assailants  could  have  penetrated  so 
far,  they  would  have  encountered  a  fiery 
roof  quite  unapproachable.  To  provide 
ventilation  for  the  fire  a  large  hole  has 
be^i  tuniielled  through  the  rock  close 
hj.  Passing  a  gateway,  and  the  shrine 
of  the  Fakir  Sukh  Sultan,  we  come 
toa  Barahdari,  or  pavilion,  from  which 
there  is  a  fine  view.  It  is  believed  to 
have  been  the  residence  of  the  Hindu 
Princes  of  Deogiri,  and  was  a  favourite 
SDBmer  resort  of  the  Emperor  Shah 
hba.n  and  his  son  Aurangzib.  The 
(arilion  has  a  wide  verandah,  with  a 
ndpice  of  from  100  to  200  ft.  in 
Bsnt,  and  a  view  to  Aurangabad  on 
^  £.  and  to  Roza  on  the  N.  In  the 
ilbction  of  Aurangabad  is  the  small 
iiakted  hill  of  Chaman  Tekri,  upon 
vUch  are  the  ruins  of  Hindu  temples 
of  great  antiquity.  100  steps  more 
fWBt  be  climl>ed  to  reach  the  Citadel 
itself,  on  a  platform  160  ft.  x  120  ft. 
At  the  W.  comer  is  a  one-gun  battery, 
60  fL  X  30  ft.    The  gun  is  19  ft.  6  in. 


long,  with  a  bore  of  7  in.  On  one 
bastion  is  a  large  gun,  cm  which  is  a 
Guzerati  inscription,  saying  that  the 
funds  for  its  construction  were  provided 
by  certain  Banias,  and  also  a  Persian 
inscription,  naming  the  gun  "Creator  of 
Storms."  Tavemier  says  that  the  gun 
on  the  highest  platform  was  raised  to  its 
place  under  the  directions  of  a  European 
artilleryman  in  the  service  of  the  Great 
Mogul,  who  had  been  repeatedly  refused 
leave  to  return  to  his  native  land,  but 
was  promised  it  if  he  could  mount 
the  gun  on  this  spot.  Stimulated  by  the 
promise,  he  at  last  succeeded. 

In  the  year  1293  'Alan -din,  after- 
wards Emperor  of  Delhi,  took  the  city 
of  Deogiri  (Daulatabad).  The  citadel 
still  held  out.  He  raised  the  siege  on 
receiving  an  almost  incredible  ransom, 
15,000  lbs.  of  pure  gold,  175  lbs.  of 
pearls,  50  lbs.  of  diamonds,  and  25,000 
lbs.  of  silver.  In  1338  a.d.  Muhammad 
Shah  TugUak  attempted  to  establish 
his  capitel  in  the  Deccan,  removed 
the  inhabitants  of  Delhi  to  Deogiri, 
strengthened  the  fortifications,  and 
changed  the  name  to  Daulatabad.  His 
plans,  however,  were  finally  baffled. 

The  road  (7  m.)  to  Roza  and  the 
caves  of  EUora  is  up  the  steep  hill  called 
Pipal  Ghat.  It  was  paved  by  one  of 
Aurangzib's  courtiers,  as  recorded  on 
two  pillars  about  half-way  up  the  hill, 
where  there  are  fine  views. 

Rosa  (or  properly  Itauza)  or  Khul- 
dabad,  3^  a  walled  town,  2000  ft  above 
the  sea  (2218  inhab.)  It  is  2  m.  from 
the  caves  of  Ellora  and  14  m.  N.  W.  of 
Aurangabad.  Tongas  or  light  carts  can 
be  taken  up  or  down  the  ghats.  An 
annual  Fair  is  held  here  on  7th  Feb., 
at  which  thousands  of  people  assemble. 

Roza  jpossesses  a  pleasant  and  tem- 
perate climate,  and  is  largely  used  as  a 
sanitarium  during  the  summer  months. 
It  is  the  Kerbekt  (a  holy  shrine)  of 
the  Deccan  Mussulmans,  and  is  cele- 
brated as  the  burial-place  of  many 
distinguished  Mohammedans,  amongst 
whom  are  the  Emperor  Aurangzib  and 
his  second  son,  Azim  Shah  ;  Asaf  Jah, 
the  founder  of  the  Hyderabad  dynasty ; 
Nasir  Jung,  his  second  son ;  Malik 
Ambar,  the  powerful  minister  of  the  last 
ofthe Nizam Shahi kings;  ThanahShah, 


70 


ltOUl?E  2.      BOMBAt  (t?0  AURANGABAD 


India 


the  exiled  and  imprisoned  kinc  of  Gol- 
konda ;  and  a  host  of  minor  celebrities. 

Roza  once  contained  a  considerable 
population,  but  the  place  is  now  in 
great  part  deserted.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  stone  wall  (built  by  Aurangzib) 
with  battlements  and  loopholes.  Old 
and  ruinous  mosques  and  tombs  abound 
in  every  direction  on  each  side  of  the 
road. 

Midway  between  the  N.  and  S.  gates 
of  the  city  is  the  MauBolemu  of  Aur- 
angsib.  An  ascent  of  30  yds.  leads  to 
the  domed  porch  and  gateway,  erected 
about  1760  by  a  celebrated  dancing  girl 
of  Auraneabad :  within  it  is  a  large 
quadrangle.  Some  of  the  surrounding 
buildings  are  used  as  rest-houses  for 
travellers,  and  one  as  a  school.  In  the 
centre  of  the  S.  side  is  an  exquisite  little 
Nakar  Khana,  or  music  hall,  from  the 
galleries  of  which  music  is  played  when 
festivals  or  fairs  are  celebrated.  The 
W.  side  is  occupied  by  a  large  mosque, 
the  roof  of  which  is  supported  on  scal- 
loped arches.  Facing  the  N.  end  of 
the  mosque  is  a  small  open  gateway 
leading  into  an  inner  courtyard,  in  the 
S.E.  an^le  of  which  is  the  door  of 
Aurangzib's  tomb  itself.  Above  the 
door  is  a  semicircular  screen  of  carved 
wood.  The  grave,  which  is  uncovered, 
lies  in  the  middle  of  a  stone  platform 
raised  about  half  a  foot  from  tne  floor. 
It  is  overshadowed  by  the  branches  of 
a  tree  (Bukuli)  which  bears  sweet- 
smelling  flowers,  otherwise  it  is  quite 
open  to  sun  and  rain,  as  it  should  be, 
according  to  orthodox  Mohammedan 
ideas.  This  emperor,  who  was  a  man 
of  austere  piety,  is  said  before  his  death 
to  have  desired  that  his  sepulchre 
should  be  poor  and  unpretentious,  in 
accordance  with  the  tenets  of  the 
Koran.  The  tomb  is  plain  almost  to 
meanness,  from  which  it  is  only 
redeemed  by  the  beauty  of  the  delicate 
marble  screen,  5  ft.  high,  which  encloses 
the  lower  portion  on  the  W.  side.  It 
is  a  remarkable  circumstance  that  he, 
who  had  erected  such  a  magnificent 
mausoleum  over  his  wife  Rabi'a  Durani 
at  Aurangabad,  should  have  desired 
such  a  lowly  sepulchre  himself ;  but  it 
is  generally  believed  that  his  son,  Azim 
Shah,  who  was  near  him  at  the  time  of 


his  death,  and  his  courtiers,  religiously 
obeyed  his  wish  in  intening  his  remnins 
in  this  manner,  and  in  a  place  sanctified 
by  the  tomb  of  a  celebrated  Moh&m- 
medan  saint.  He  is  said  to  have 
"desired  in  his  will  that  his  funeral 
expenses  should  be  defrayed  from  the 
proceeds  of  caps  which  he  had  quilted 
and  sold,  and  this  amount  did  not 
exceed  10s.  ;  while  the  proceeds  of  the 
sale  of  his  copies  of  the  Koran,  805  is., 
were  distributed  to  the  poor." 

Fifteen  or  twenty  paces  to  the  R  of 
Aurangzib's  tomb  is  a  small  quadran- 
gular enclosure  of  marble,  withm  which 
are  three  graves,  the  one  on  the  right 
being  that  of  the  daughter  of  the 
Mohammedan  saint  buried  close  by ; 
the  next  that  of  Azim  Shah,  Aurang- 
zib's second  son,  attached  to  which  is 
a  small  marble  headstone  carved  with 
floral  devices ;  and  the  one  beyond  is 
the  grave  of  Azim  Shah's  wife.  The 
whole  is  surrounded  by  a  plain  screen 
of  white  marble.  Midway  between 
these  tombs  and  that  of  Aurangzib  is 
the  Mausoleum  of  Sayyad  Zainu-din, 
on  the  E.  side  of  which  are  inscribed  a 
number  of  verses  from  the  Koran,  and 
the  date  of  the  Saiyad's  death,  1370  a.d. 
This  tomb,  however,  was  erected  many 
years  after  that  period  by  one  of  his 
disciples.  The  doors  of  the  shrine 
are  inlaid  with  silver  plates  of  some 
thickness ;  the  steps  below  it  are  em- 
bellished with  a  number  of  cuiiously  cut 
and  polished  stones,  said  to  have  been 
brought  here  from  time  to  time  by 
fakirs  and  other  religious  devotees  of 
the  shrine.  A  little  distance  to  the 
rear  of  this  tomb  is  a  small  room  built 
in  an  angle  of  the  courtyard  wall,  which 
is  said  to  contain  the  robe  of  the 
Prophet  Mohammed.  It  is  carefully 
preserved  under  lock  and  key,  and  is 
only  exhibited  to  the  gaze  of  the 
faithful  once  a  year,  the  12th  Rabia-l- 
Awal  (March). 

Opposite  the  tombs  of  Aurangzib 
and  his  son  is  that  of  Asaf  Jah,  the 
first  of  the  Nizams  of  Hyderabad. 
The  entrance  is  through  a  large  quad- 
rangle, having  open-fronted  builaings 
on  all  sides,  and  a  Nakar  Khana,  or 
music  hall,  at  the  R  end.  The  W. 
end  is  used  as  a  school  for  instruction 

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ROUTE  2.   THE  CAVES  OF  ELLORA 


71 


in  the  Koran.  A  door  at  this  end 
giv^es  access  to  an  inner  courtyard  in 
which  are  a  number  of  graves.  Facing 
the  entrance  are  the  shrines  of  Asaf 
Jah  and  one  of  his  consorts,  surrounded 
bj  a  lattice  screen  of  red  sandstone, 
and  that  of  Sayyad  EazraJt  Burhanu- 
(Hn,  a  saint  of  great  renown  amongst 
Mohammedans,  who  died  at  Roza, 
1344.  The  Sayyad  is  said  to  have 
left  Upper  India  with  1400  disciples 
a  few  years  before  the  first  invasion 
of  the  Deccan  by  'Alau-din,  1294, 
for  the  purpose  of  propagating  the 
tenets  of  his  faith  amongst  the  Hindus 
of  this  portion  of  India.  Deposited 
within  the  shrine  are  some  hairs  of  the 
Prophet's  beard,  which  are  said  to  in- 
crease yearly  in  number.  The  shrine, 
however,  boasts  of  a  still  more  remark- 
able treasure,  which  is  described  by  the 
attendants  as  follows :  "For  some  years 
after  its  erection,  the  disciples  of  the 
Saiyad  were  without  means  to  keep  it 
in  repair,  or  to  provide  themselves  with 
the  necessaries  of  life.  Supplication 
to  the  deceased  saint,  however,  pro- 
duced the  following  remarkable  pheno- 
menon. During  the  night  smaU  trees 
of  silver  grew  up  through  the  pavement 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  shrine,  and  were 
regularly  removed  every  morning  by 
the  attendants.  They  were  broken  up 
and  sold  in  the  bazaars,  and  with  the 
proceeds  thus  realised  the  Saiyad's  dis- 
ciples were  enabled  to  maintain  the 
wine  and  themselves.  This  remark- 
able production  of  silver  is  said  to  have 
continued  for  a  number  of  years,  until 
a  small  jagir  was  allotted  to  the  shrine, 
once  which  time  the  pavement  has 
only  yielded  small  buds  of  the  precious 
netai,  which  appear  on  the  surface  at 
Bight  and  recede  during  the  day."  In 
proof  of  these  assertions  the  visitor  is 
ibwn  a  number  of  small  lumps  of 
liver  on  the  surface  of  the  pavement. 
The  shrine  doors  are  covered  with  plates 
ofwhite  and  yellow  metal  wrought  into 
designs  of  trees  and  flowers. 

Small  game  is  plentiful  in  this  neigh- 
hoarhood. 

24  m.  from  Bozais  the  native  village 
of  Kvnhur,  in  the  fertile  valley  of  the 
Sinna.  20  m.  farther  is  Chalisgaon, 
Oft  the  G.I.  P.  Rly. 


The  OftYds  of  Bllora.^ 

Ellora  {Elura  or  VenU),  «  about  1^ 
m.  from  Boza,  a  village  in  the  Nizam's 
Dominions.  Distant  N.  W.  fix)m  Auran- 
gabad  14  m.,  from  Drulatabad  7  m. 
Pop.  742.  The  village  is  partly  walled, 
and  contains  a  Mohammedan  shrine 
famed  throughout  the  Deooan  for  its 
marvellous  healing  powers.  Ellora  is 
famous  for  its  highly  remarkable  series  of 
rock-caves  and  temples,  situated  in  a 
crescent-shaped  hUl  or  plateau.  They  are 
first  mentioned  by  Ma'sudi,  the  Arabic 
geographer  of  the  10th  cent.,  but  merely 
as  a  celebrated  place  of  pilgrimage.  They 
were  visited  in  1306  by  Ala-ud-din  or 
his  generals,  when,  as  Dow  {History  of 
Hindostan)  relates,  the  capture  occurred 
of  a  Hindu  princess  of  Guzerat,  who  was 
here  in  concealment  from  the  Moham- 
medans, but  was  afterwards  carried  to 
Delhi  and  married  to  the  emperor's  son. 

Contrasting  the  caves  of  Ellora 
and  Ajanta,  Mr.  Fergusson  writes: 
*'  Architecturally  the  Ellora  caves 
differ  from  those  of  Ajanta,  in  con- 
sequence of  their  being  excavated  in 
the  sloping  sides  of  a  hill,  and  not 
in  a  nearly  perpendicular  cliff.  From 
this  formation  of  the  ground  almost  all 
the  caves  at  Ellora  have  courtyards  in 
front  of  them.  Frequently  also  an 
outer  wall  of  rock,  with  an  entrance 
through  it,  left  standing,  so  that  the 
caves  are  not  generally  seen  from  the 
outside  at  all,  and  a  person  might  pass 
along  their  front  without  being  aware 
of  their  existence,  unless  warned  of  the 
fact."  The  caves  extend  along  the  face 
of  the  hill  for  IJ  m.  They  are  divided 
into  three  distinct  series,  the  Buddhist, 
the  Brahmanical,  and  the  Jain,  and  are 
arranged  almost  chronologically. 

"The  caves,"  writes  Dr.  Burgess, 
"are  excavated  in  the  face  of  a  hill,  or 
rather  the  scarp  of  a  large  plateau,  and 
ran  nearly  N.  and  S.  for  about  IJ  m., 
the  scarp  at  each  end  of  this  interval 
throwing  out  a  horn  towards  the  W. 
It  is  where  the  scarp  at  the  S.  end 
begins  to  turn  to  the  W.  that  the 
eaniest  caves — a  group  of  Buddhistic 
ones — are  situated,  and  in  the  N.  horn 
is  the  Indra  Sabha  or  Jain  group,  at 

1  Ellora  is  45  m.  from  Nandgaon  sta.  The 
road  passes  (9  m.)  Deogaon  (D.B.),  see  p.  66. 

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72- 


ROUTE  2.   BOMBAY  TO  AURANGABAD 


India 


the  other  extremity  of  the  series.  The 
ascent  of  the  ghat  passes  up  the  S.  side 
of  Kailas,  the  third  of  the  Brahmanical 
group,  and  over  the  roof  of  the  Das 
Avatar,  the  second  of  them.  Sixteen 
caves  lie  to  the  S.  of  Kailas,  and  nearly 
as  many  to  the  N.,  but  the  latter  are 
scattered  over  a  greater  distance. 
"Most  of  the  caves  have  got  dis- 


are  5  at  the  extreme  N.  There  are 
also  some  cells  and  a  colossal  Jain  image 
on  the  N.  side  of  the  same  spur  in 
which  is  the  Indra  Sabha."  Amongst 
the  Buddhist,  the  most  important  are 
the  Dherwara,  the  oldest ;  the  THsh- 
wakarma,  or  Carpenter's  Cav&  a 
Ghaitya  with  a  ribbed  roof,  a  parallelo- 
gram about  85  ft.  long ;  the  I>oii  Tal  (2 


The  Dherwara. 

tiuguishiug  names  from  the  Brahmans ; 
but  it  may  be  quite  as  convenient,  for 
the  sake  of  reference,  to  number  them 
from  S.  to  N.,  beginning  with  the 
Buddhistic  caves,  of  which  there  are 
12,  and  passing  through  the  Brah- 
manical series,  of  which  17  are  below 
the  brow  of  the  scarp,  and  a  large 
number  of  smaller  ones  above,  and  end- 
ing with  the  Jain  caves,  of  which  there 


The  Kftflas. 


storeyed,  really  3);  and  Tin  Tal  (3 
storeys).  The  Das  Ayatar  is  the  oldest 
of  the  Brahmanical  series.  The  great 
hall  is  143  ft.  long,  and  is  supported 
by  46  pillars. 

The  most  splendid  of  the  whole  series 
is  the  Kailas,  a  perfect  Dravidian 
temple,  complete  in  all  its  parts,  char- 
acterised by  Fergusson  as  one  of  the 
most  wonderful  and  interesting  monu- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  3.      BHUSAWAL 


n 


ments  of  arohitectaral  art  in  India. 
"  It  is  not  a  mere  interior  chamber  cut 
in  the  rock,"  continaes  Mr.  Fergusson, 
"but  is  a  model  of  a  complete  temple 
soch  as  might  have  been  erected  on  the 
plain.    In  other  words,  the  rock  has 
been  cut  away  externally  as  well  as 
internally."     This  temple  is  said  to 
have  been  excavated  about  the  8th  cent 
by  R^a  Elu  of  EUichpur— but  the  s^le 
and  other  evidence  point  to  its  havmg 
been  constructed  in  the  reisn  of  Danti- 
durga,  the  Bashtrakuta  king,  730-755 
A.]>.  Dedicated  to  Shiva,  it  is  surrounded 
with  figures  also  of  Vishnu  and  the 
whole  Puranic  pantheon.    The  interior, 
and  parts  at  least,  of  the  exterior  have 
been  painted.     Unlike  any  of  the  pre- 
ceding cave-temples,  Kailas  is  a  ^eat 
monoUthic  temple,  isolated  from  sur- 
rounding rock,  and  profusely  carved  out- 
aide  as  well  as  in.     It  stands  in  a  great 
court  averaging  154  ft.  wide  by  276  ft. 
long  at  the  level  of  the  base,  entirely  cut 
out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  with  a  scarp 
107  ft  high  at  the  back.     In  front  of 
this  court  a  curtain  has  been  left,  carved 
cm  the  outside  with  the  monstrous  forms 
of  Shiva  and  Vishnu  and  their  congeners, 
and  with  rooms  inside  it.    It  is  pierced 
in  the  centre  by  an  entrance  passage 
with  rooms  on  each  side.    Passing  this, 
tile  visitor  is  met  by  a  large  sctupture 
«f  Lakshmi  over  the  lotuses,  with  her 
^ndant  elephants.     As  we  enter,  to 
right  and  left  is  the  front  portion  of 
the  court,  which  is  a  few  teet  lower 
than  the  rest,  and  at  the  N.  and  S.  ends 
of  which  stand  two  gigantic  elephants, 
7-that  on  the  S.  mucn  mutilated.  Turn- 
ing again  to  the  £.  and  ascending  a  few 
steps,  we  enter  the  ^eat  hall  of  the 
temple.     In  front  of  it,  and  connected 
bya bridee,  is  a  mandapam  for  the  Nandi 
Mi,  and  on  each  side  of  this  mandapam 
stands  a  pillar,  45  ft.  high.    On  the  N. 
side  of  tne  court  is  a  series  of  excava- 
tims  in  two  tiers  with  finely  sculptured 
ifflars.  Another  magnificent  Brahmani- 
eil  cave  temple  is  that  of  Dumar  Lena, 
aasoring  150  ft.  each  way.     **  One  of 
t^  finest  Hindu  excavations  existing." 
Irom   here    a   footpath    leads    to 
f     (1  nt)  the  fine  series  of  Jain  caves,  the 
^     Jsgaianath,  and  Indra  Sabhas,  at  the 
I      H.  end. 


ROUTE   3 

Bhusawal  via  Nagpttr  to  Calcutta 
(G.I. P.  and  Bengal-Nagpur  Rlys.) 

By  this  line  a  new  route  from 
Bombay  to  Calcutta  (1278  m.,  or  about 
126  m.  shorter  than  any  other)  is 
opened  up.  It  is  not  probable  that 
this  line  will  be  much  used  for  through 
passenger  traffic,  because  it  takes  two 
hours  longer  than  the  route  via  Jub- 
bul^re ;  but  it  taps  an  immense 
temtory  of  the  Central  Provinces  which 
has  hitherto  been  inaccessible  to  ex- 
ternal trade,  and  provides  an  outlet  foi 
the  great  wheat  and  seed-producing 
district  of  ChaUisgarhf  "the  granary 
of  India. "  The  scenery  in  parte  of  the 
line,  notably  at  Dare  Kassa^  Dongar- 
garhf  and  Saranda,  is  very  fine. 

The  route  from  Bombay  to 

276  m.  Bhusawal  junc  (B.)  is  de- 
scribed in  Rte.  1. 

Soon  after  leaviiig  Bhusawal  the 
traveller  enters  the  Province  of  Berar 
(pop.  2,896,670),  which  continues 
almost  all  the  way  to  Nagpur.  It 
belongs  to  H.H.  the  Nizam,  but  was 
assigned  to  the  British  bv  a  treaty,  in. 
1853,  for  the  support  of  the  Hyderabad 
Contingent  force.  This  treaty  was 
remodelled  in  December  1860,  by 
which,  for  the  Nizam's  services  in  the 
Mutiny  of  1857,  his  debt  of  50  lakhs 
was  cancelled,  the  districts  of  Dharaseo 
and  the  Raichur  Doab  were  restored, 
and  the  confiscated  territory  of  Shola- 
pur  was  ceded  to  him. 

The  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  struck 
with  the  fertility  of  this  Province, 
which  is  one  of  the  richest  and  most 
extensive  cotton-fields  in  India.  The 
soil  is  black  loam  overlying  basalt. 
The  rainfall  is  regular  and  abundant, 
and  at  harvest-time  the  whole  surface 
is  one  immense  waving  sheet  of  crops. 
The  districts  into  which  Berar  is 
divided  are  Akola,  Amraoti,  EUchpur, 
Buldana,  Wun,  and  Basim. 

333  m.  Jalamb  junc.  sta. 

[Branch  8  m.  S.  to  Khamgaon  sta., 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


74 


ROUTE  3.      BHUSAWAt  TO  CALCUTTA 


India 


where  there  is  an  important  cotton- 
mart.] 

340  m.  Sheagaon  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

363  m.  Akola  sta.  is  the  head- 
quarters station  of  the  West  Berar 
district  of  that  name. 

[A  road  from  Akola  runs  S.  72  m.  to 
the  important  town  and  military  station 
of  Hingoli.  About  30  m.  from  Akola 
is  the  town  of  Mekar^  and  15  m.  S.  of 
Mekar  is  a  celebrated  soda  lake  called 
LonaVf  formed  in  the  crater  of  an  extinct 
volcano.  The  salt  is  used  for  washing 
and  dyeing  purposes,  and  is  exported 
in  considerable  quantities.  The  area 
of  the  Akola  district  is  2659  sq.  m., 
pop.  692,800.] 

413  m.  Badnera  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

[Br.  6  m.  N.  to  Amraoti  sta.  (R.), 
D.B.  Both  places  have  cotton-marts, 
and  there  are  cotton-gins  and  ware- 
houses. Amraoti  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  district  of  that  name,  and  has 
the  usual  public  offices  attached  to  a 
civil  station.] 

472  m.  Wardha  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
The  chief  town  of  the  most  westerly 
district  of  the  Central  Provinces.  The 
place  is  auite  modern,  dating  only  from 
1866,  and  is  a  considerable  cotton-mart. 
Here  is  a  Medical  Mission  of  the  Free 
Church  of  Scotland,  with  fine  hospital 
and  leper  asylum. 

[Branch  S.  to  the  Warora  coal-fields. 

21  ro.  Hinganghat  sta.,  D.B.,  a  very 
important  old  cotton-market. 

45  m.  Warora  terminus  sta.,  a 
town  in  the  Chanda  district  of  the 
Central  Provinces,  and  a  considerable 
cotton -mart  Close  to  Warora  are 
mines  of  fairly  good  coal ;  3000  tons  a 
month  have  been  supplied  to  the  rail- 
way, the  yearly  out-turn  has  been 
about  100,000  tons. 

30  m.  S.E.  of  Warora  is  Chanda, 
D.B.,  reached  by  a  good  road.  This 
place  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Chanda 
district.  Too  far  off  the  main  lines  of 
commnnication  to  be  visitBd  by  harried 


travellers,  it  is  yet  a  most  attractive 
spot.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  a 
continuous  wall  of  cut  stone  5J  m.  in 
circuit.  Inside  the  walls  are  detached 
villages  and  cultivated  fields.  The 
foliage  is  beautiful  and  there  are  ex- 
tensive forest -preserves  near.  The 
tombs  of  the  Gond  kings,  and  the 
temples  of  Achaleswar,  Maha  Kali,  and 
Murlidhar,  are  all  worth  a  visit.  At 
LcUpet,  in  the  town,  a  large  spa^e  is 
covered  with  monolith  figures  of  gigtn- 
tic  size  which  appear  to  have  been  pre- 
pared for  some  great  temple  never 
erected.  Cunningham,  in  reviewing 
the  travels  of  Hiouen  Thsang  in  South- 
em  India  in  the  7th  century,  con- 
siders that  Chanda  has  a  strong  claim 
to  be  considered  the  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Maha-Eosala.  Here  a 
traveller  would  see  the  Gonds,  a  people 
differing  from  the  surrounding  popula- 
tion in  religion,  language,  ana  race.] 

520  m.  Nagpur,3^  is  the  capital 
of  the  Central  Provinces,  which  have  an 
area  of  112,912  sq.  m.  (pop.  10,761,630). 
The  district  of  iTagpur  itself  has  an 
area  of  8786  sq.  m.  Among  the  in- 
habitants are  upwards  of  2,000,000  of 
aboriginescalled  Gonds ;  andof  these  the 
hill-tribes  have  black  skins,  flat  noses, 
and  thick  lips.  A  cloth  round  the  waist 
is  their  chief  garment  The  religious 
belief  varies  from  village  to  villa^. 
Nearly  all  worship  the  cholera  and  tne 
small-pox,  and  there  are  traces  of  serpent 
worship. 

The  ancient  history  of  the  Province 
is  very  obscure.  In  the  6th  century 
A.D.  a  race  of  foreigners,  Vavanas^ 
ruled  from  the  Satpura  plateau,  and 
between  the  10th  and  13th  centuries, 
Rajputs  of  the  Lunar  Race  governed 
the  country  round  Jubbulpore,  and  the 
Pramars  of  Malwa  ruled  territory 
S.  of  the  Satpuras.  The  Chanda 
dynasty  of  Gonds  reigned  probably 
as  early  as  the  10th  or  11th  cen- 
tury, and  the  Haihayas  of  Chattis- 
garh  were  of  ancient  date.  In  1898 
A.D.  there  were  princes  reigning  at 
Kherla,  on  the  Satpura  plateau,  and 
Ferishtah  says  '*  they  possessed  all  the 
hills  of  Gondwana."  In  1467  they 
were    conquered    by    the     Bahmani 


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ROUTE  3.       NAGPUR 


75 


kings.  The  next  century  the  Gronds 
again  rose  to  power,  but  in  1741  the 
Maratha  Bhonsias  inraded  the  country. 
In  1818  the  English  annexed  the 
Saugar  and  Nerbudda  territories,  and 
in  1853  Nagpur  and  other  districts, 
which  in  1861  Lord  Canning  formed 
into  the  Central  Provinces. 

Nagpur,  situated  on  the  small  stream 
called  the  Nag  (pop.  117,900),  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  administration  of 
the  Central  Provinces,  The  munici- 
pality includes,  besides  the  city,  the 
suburb  and  the  European  station  of 
Sit^tbaldi.  In  the  centre  stands  Sita- 
baldi  Hill,  crowned  mth  the  fort  of  the 
same  name,  which  commands  a  fine 
view.  Below  to  the  N.  and  W.  is  the 
prettily  wooded  civil  station  of  Nagpur. 
Beyond  to  the  N.  are  the  military  lines 
and  bazaars,  and  beyond  these  the 
suburb  of  Taklit  once  the  headquarters 
of  the  Nagpur  Irregular  force.  There 
is  a  fine  new  Residency  on  Takli  Hill, 
but  the  Chief  Commissioner  resides 
chiefly  at  Pachmari  on  the  Satpuras. 
Close  under  the  S.  side  of  the  hill  is  the 
native  suburb  of  Sitabaldi.  Below  the 
glacis  is  the  railway  station  ;  beyond  is 
the  Jumma  Talao,  a  large  tank ;  and 
more  to  the  E.  is  the  city,  hidden  in 
foliage.  Three  great  roads  lead  from  the 
European  station  to  the  city,  one  on 
the  N.  and  one  on  the  S.  bank  of  the 
tank  ;  the  third,  which  is  the  most  N. 
of  all,  crosses  the  railway  by  a  bridge 
to  the  N.  of  the  station.  Besides  the 
Jumma  Talao,  there  are  two  other  fine 
tanks,  the  Ambajhari  and  Telingkheri, 
in  the  neighbourhood.  The  chief 
gardens  are  the  Maharaj  Bagh,  in 
Sitabaldi,  the  Tulsi  Bagh,  inside  the 
aty,  and  the  Paldi,  Shakardara,  Sona- 
pon,  and  Telingkheri  in  the  suburbs. 

The  traveller  will  remember  that 
Kagpur  is  famous  for  its  delicious 
Manges,  large  numbers  of  which  are 
tiported  during  the  first  three  months 
rf  the  year.  His  first  visit  may  be  to  the 
Sitabaldi  Eill,  Here,  on  the  26th  and 
^th  of  November  1817,  the  Maratha 
troops  of  the  Bhonsla  Raja,  Apa  Sahib, 
attacked  the  Resident,  Mr.,  afterwards 
Sir  R.  Jenkins,  and  the  few  troops  he 
had  been  able  to  assemble.  After  a 
desperate  engagement,   during  which 


the  Marathi  at  one  time  got  possession 
of  one  of  the  two  eminences  of  the 
Sitabaldi  Hill,  the  English  were  at 
length  victorious.  The  Resident  was 
then  joined  by  fresh  troop,  and  de- 
manded the  surrender  of  the  Raja  and 
the  disbandmeut  of  his  army.  This 
latter  point  was  only  obtained  after  a 
second  battle,  in  which  the  Marathi 
were  completely  routed. 

Apa  Sahib  escaped  and  died  in  exile. 
A  child  was  raised  to  the  throne  under 
the  title  of  Raghoji  III.,  and  on  his 
death,  in  1853,  the  country  was  annexed 
by  the  British.  On  the  13th  of  June 
1857  the  native  cavalry  conspired  with 
the  Mohammedans  of  the  city  to  rise 
against  the  British,  but  the  infantry 
continued  loyal,  and  arrested  tlie  native 
oflScers  sent  to  them  by  the  cavalry. 

The  Bhonsla  Palace^  built  of  black 
basalt  and  richly  ornamented  with 
wood  carving,  was  burnt  dovm  in  1864, 
only  the  Nakar  Khana,  or  music  hall, 
remains. 

Thence  the  traveller  may  proceed  to 
the  Tombs  of  the  Bhonsla  Bajas,  in 
the  Shukrawari  quarter,  to  the  S.  of 
the  cit^.  The  markets  are  in  the 
Gurganj  Square  and  Gachi  Pagar,  and 
take  place  once  a  week  in  each.  In 
the  city  are  also  the  Small  Cause  Court 
and  the  Magistrate's  Court.  Tlie  Cen- 
tral Jail  is  an  important  institution. 

The  old  Besidencyy  where  the  Chief 
Commissioner  formerly  resided,  and 
the  Secretariat,  are  at  Sitabaldi.  There 
is  a  small  detachment  from  the  English 
regiment  at  Kampti  garrisoning  the 
fort,  and  there  are  also  the  head- 
quarters and  wing  of  a  N.I.  regiment. 

The  city  and  civil  station  are  well 
supplied  with  water  from  the  Ambajhari 
reservoir,  and  the  station  roads  are  lined 
with  beautiful  trees.  There  is  a  hand- 
some English  church,  and  a  large 
Roman  Catholic  cathedral  and  school, 
and  an  important  branch  of  the  Missions 
of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland,  with 
the  Hislop  College,  two  hospitals  for 
men  and  women,  and  a  fine  Marathi 
church. 

The  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Railway 
terminates  at  Nagpur,  and  from  this 
point  E.  towards  Calcutta  the  line 
belongs  to  the  Bengal-Nagpur  Railway. 

Digitized  by  CiOOglC 


76 


ROUTB  3.      BHUSAWAL  TO  OALCtJTTA 


Iniia 


529  m.  Kampti  D.B.  A  large  town 
and  military  cantonment  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Eanhan  river,  which  is 
spanned  by  ahandsomestone  bridge  that 
cost  £90, 000.  Close  to  it  is  the  railway 
bridge,  a  fine  iron  structure  that  cost 
£100,000.  Pop.  51,000.  Kampti  dates 
only  from  the  establishment  of  the 
military  station  in  1821,  and  for  about 
fifty  years  it  was  governed  entirely  by 
the  military  authorities.  The  neigh- 
bouring city  of  Nagpur  during  the 
greater  part  of  this  time  was  the  capital 
of  the  state,  and  the  residence  of  a 
Maratha  court.  No  more  striking  evi- 
dence could  be  adduced  of  the  just  and 
moderate  tone  of  the  army  administra- 
tion than  the  rapid  growth  of  this  place. 
The  roads  are  broad  and  well  laid  out. 
The  English  church  was  built  in 
1833,  and  there  is  a  highly  useful 
Roman  Catholic  establishment  of  the 
order  of  St.  Francis  de  Sales  with  a 
church  and  convent,  where  good  educa- 
tion is  given  to  a  class  of  children  who 
would  otherwise  be  neglected.  There 
are  5  mosques  and  70  Hindu  temples. 

559  m.  Bhandaxa  Boadsta.,.D.6.,  is 
about  6im.  from  the  town,  which  is  close 
to  the  Wainganga  river.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  a  district  of  the  same  name, 
and  contains  the  usual  public  offices, 
schools,  and  institutions.  Pop.  11,000. 
Between  Bhandara  and  Nagpur  few  of 
the  richer  natives  ever  mount  a  horse, 
they  ride  astride  on  the  pole  of  a  very 
light  two-wheeled  ox-cart  called  a  ringi. 
The  oxen  for  these  carts  are  a  special 
breed,  very  small  and  active,  and  cap- 
able of  sustaining  a  trot  equal  to  the 
pace  of  an  ordinary  carriage  horse. 
Here  is  the  B.  Barbour  Medical  Mission 
of  the  Free  Church  of  Scotland. 
615  m.  Amgaon  sta.  (R.) 
From  624  m.  Salekasa  sta.  to 
647  m.  Dongai^^h  sta.  (R.),  the  line 
passes  through  hUls  and  heavy  bamboo 
jungles,  and  through  a  pass  with  a 
tunnel  at  the  summit.  The  jungle 
near  this  tunnel  is  famous  for  ^ner- 
ally  having  a  man-eating  tiger  in  it. 
During  the  construction  of  the  railway 
a  large  number  of  natives  were  killed 
here,  and  victims  have  more  recently 
been  carried  ofl*.     Large  game  of  all 


1        beei 


sorts  abounds.  Don^rgarh  is  a  lirge 
engine-changing  station,  with  a  oon- 
sidemble  European  population  con- 
nected with  the  railway.  The  ruins  of 
a  fort  are  on  the  N.E.  face  of  a  detached 
hill,  some  4  m.  in  circuit.  Inside  the 
fortified  space  there  are  tanks  for  water 
supply,  but  no  buildings. 

708  m.  Baipur  sta.  The  chief  town 
of  a  district  of  the  same  name,  the 
residence  of  the  commissioner  of  CPujUtis- 
garh,  and  a  small  military  cantonment 
The  usual  offices  will  be  found.  The 
old  town  was  to  the  S.  and  W.  of  the 
present  one,  which  was  laid  out  by 
Colonel  Agnew  in  1830.  The  pop.  is 
25,000.  The  town  is  surrounded  by 
tanks  and  groves  of  trees,  which  form 
its  attraction.  The  Fort  was  built  by 
Raja  Bhuraneswar  Sing  in  1460,  and 
in  its  time  was  a  very  strong  work. 
Its  outer  wall  is  nearly  1  m.  in  cir- 
cumference. Large  quantities  of  stone 
were  used  in  its  construction,  though 
no  quarries  exist  in  the  neighbourhoM. 
The  Burha  Tankf  on  the  S.,  the  same 
age  as  the  Fort,  covered  nearly  1  sq.  m. 
In  later  improvements  it  has  been 
reduced  in  extent  The  public  gardens 
are  on  its  K  shore.  The  Maharaj 
Tank  was  constructed  by  a  revenue 
farmer  in  the  times  of  the  Marathas, 
and  close  to  it  is  the  temple  of  Ram- 
chandra,  built  in  1775  by  Bhimbaji 
Bhonsla.  There  are  several  other  reser- 
voirs in  the  suburbs  ;  and  in  the  centre 
of  the  town  is  the  Kankali  tank,  con- 
structed of  stone  throughout,  at  the 
close  of  the  17th  century. 

776  m.  BUaspur  junc.  sta.  (R.). 
This  place  is  a  large  engine-changing 
centre. 

[Branch  N.W.  throngha  mountainous 
district  and  the  coal-fields  of  Umaria 
to  198  m.  Katni  junc.  on  the  E.  I.  RIy. 
(p.  86).  This  branch  passes  at  Pendra 
sta.,  under  the  Aniarkant»alr  plateau 
(4000  ft)  where  the  Nerbudda  has  its 
source.  There  are  several  temnles 
and  a  **khund"  or  reservoir  enclos- 
ing the  head  spring.  The  plateau 
is  frequented  by  the  "  tirath  wwis," 
and  other  pilgrims.] 

The  traveller  enters  the  province  of 
Chattisgarh  about  Amgaon,  95  m.  £. 
of  Nagpur,  and  continues  in  it  to  about 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  3.       RATANPUR 


iUigarh  station,  at  334  m.  The  people 
of  this  country  still  consider  themselves 
a  septrate  nationality,  and  always  call 
themaelves  ChaitUgaris,  The  Bajas 
of  Batanpor  raled  originally  over  their 
36  forts,  each  the  chief  place  of  a 
district;  but  abont  750  A.D.,  the 
kingdom  was  divided  into  two,  and  a 
separate  raja  ruled  in  Raipur.  Ealyan 
Sdii,  who  ruled  between  1536  and 
1573,  went  to  Delhi  and  made  his 
submission  to  the  great  Akbar,  and 
this  prudent  conduct  resulted  in  the 
Haihaya  rulers  retaining  their  country 
until  the  Maratha  invasion  in  1740. 

The  district,  which  is  regarded  as 
oneof  the  richestcom-growing  countries 
in  the  world,  and  is  known  as  the 
"granary  of  India,"  is  in  the  shape  of 
a  vast  amphitheatre  opening  to  the  S. 
on  the  plains  of  Raipur,  but  on  every 
other  side  surrounded  by  tiers  of  hills. 
About  15  m.  E.  of  Bilaspur  is  the 
precipitous  hill  ofDahla^  2600  ft.  high, 
affording  a  grand  view. 

[12  m.  N.  of  Bilaspur  is  Batanpor, 
or  Rnttunpur,  the  old  capital  of  the 
formerly  self-contained  kingdom  of 
ChaUisgarh,  or  the  S6  Forts,  in  which 
is  included  the  districts  of  Raipur  and 
Klaspur.  The  town  lies  in  a  hollow 
surrounded  by  the  Eenda  hills.  It 
ceased  to  be  the  capital  in  1787,  but 
the  crumbling  arches  of  the  old  fort, 
the  broken  walls  of  the  ancient  palace, 
tnd  the  half-filled-up  moat  which  sur- 
rounded the  city,  recall  its  former  con- 
^on.  The  population  is  under  6000. 
The  Brahmans  of  Ratanpur  are  still  the 
leaders  of  their  class  all  over  Chattis- 
garh.  The  town  covers  an  area  of  15 
v{.  m.,  and  contains  within  its  limits 
I  forest  of  mango  trees,  with  numerous 
tanks  and  temples  scattered  amidst 
fteir  shade,  l^iixed  up  with  temples, 
peat  blocks  of  masonry  of  uniform 
ihape  commemorate  distinguished  satis 
[tuUees).  The  most  prominent  of  these 
is  near  the  old  fort,  where  a  largo  build- 
ing records  that  there  in  the  middle  of 
tfi  17th  century  20  ranis  of  Raja 
Ukshman  Sahi  devoutly  fulfilled  tne 
duty  of  self-immolation.  Kota  sta.  on 
the  Eatni  branch  is  a  few  miles  from 
Ratanpur.] 

Before  reaching 


809  m.  Champa  sta.  the  1  > 

is  crossed.     The  stream  cuts  w. 
fields  of  Korba,  some  20  m.  N.  ot  ^^ 
railway ;  and  in  the  jungles  on  its  banks 
are  to  be  found  some  of  the  few  herds 
of  wild  elephants  still  roaming  through 
the  forests  of  the  Central  Provinces. 

The  line  continues  £.  through  a 
thinly-inhabited  flat  country  to 

890  m.  Belpahan  sta.,  on  leaving 
which  the  Eeb  river,  which  flows  S. 
into  the  Mahanadi  river,  is  crossed  by 
a  considerable  bridge.  The  scenery  at 
the  crossing  is  very  fine. 

903  m.  IharBiigada  juno.  sta. 

[Branch  for  the  civil  and  military 
station  of  Sambalpur,  distant  30  m. ; 
whence,  at  different  times,  diamonds 
have  been  exported  to  a  considerable 
value.  They  are  said  to  be  found  in  the 
bed  of  the  Mahanadi  up-stream  from 
the  town,  but  whether  the  source  of 
supply  is  the  Mahanadi  or  the  Eeb 
river  is  perhaps  not  clearly  known.] 

From  Tharsuguda  the  railway  takes 
a  N.E.  course,  and  continuing  tiirough 
a  well-inhabited  plain  country  to 

916  m.  Bagdeni  sta.,  it  enters  the 
hills,  in  which  it  continues  until  the 
plains  of  Bengal  are  reached. 

936  m.  Ctarpos  sta.  Hereabouts  the 
forests  are  very  dense,  and  in  the  rainy 
season  they  are  largely  resorted  to  by 
wild  elephants.     Between 

947  m.  Konmarkela  sta.  and 

945  m.  Bonrkela  sta.  near  Kalunga, 
the  Brahmini  river  is  crossed.  The 
natives  here  earn  a  very  fair  living  by 
washing  the  river-sands  for  gold.  The 
view  up-stream  is  very  grand  when  the 
river  is  in  flood. 

991  m.  Honarpur  sta.  Here  the 
railway  enters  the  Saranda  forests, 
which  contain  some  of  the  finest  Sal 
trees  {Shorea  robusta)  in  India.  The 
line  winds  round  hills,  passing  close 
under  them  on  both  sides.  The  sum- 
mit of  the  range  is  reached  through  a 
heavy  cutting  leading  into  a  tunnel. 
During  the  construction  of  the  Bengal- 
Nagpur  Railway  through  these  forests 
and  heavy  jungles  very  great  diflSculty 
was  experienced  in  procuring  labour, 
as  they  have  a  very  had  reputation  for 
unheal thiness.     The  few  inhabitants 


d  by  Google 


ROUTE  4.       KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


India 


these  wilds  are  nearly  all  Kols,  an 
aboriginal  race. 

1015  m.  fitonoa  sta.  is  only  2  m. 
from  Farahat,  the  principal  town  of 
what  was  formerly  a  separate  Zamin- 
dari  state  of  the  same  name. 

In  1857  Anan  Sing  the  last  Riga  of 
Parahat  rebelled,  and  was  sentenced  to 
imprisonment  for  life  at  Benares.  The 
estate  of  Parahat  was  confiscated,  and 
is  now  under  the  management  of 
Government. 

1028  m.  Chakardarpnr  sta.  Here 
the  hills  recede.  The  country  is  well 
cultivated.  This  is  a  considerable  rail- 
way settlement  and  engine-changing 
station.  A  good  road  connects  Chak- 
ardarpur  wiui  Ranchi  and  the  Chota- 
Nagpur  plateau. 

Ghota-Nagpur  is  the  seat  of  a  Mis- 
sionary Bishop  of  the  Church  of 
England,  who  has  a  handsome  Church 
and  good  Schools  and  Native  Mission  in 
the  town  of  Ranchi :  there  are  com- 
munities of  Christian  Kols^  the  result 
of  extensive  S.P.G.  missions,  conducted 
by  a  brotherhood  from  Trinity  College, 
Dublin. 

[Chaibaia,  a  civil  station,  is  distant 
about  16  m.  to  the  S.  A  great  fair  is 
held  here  at  Christmas-time,  to  which 
the  people  of  the  country  flock. 
Athletic  sports,  races,  and  national 
dances  take  place  on  the  last  day  of 
the  year,  and  no  better  opporhmity 
can  be  taken  for  seeing  the  people. 

1062  m.Gha]idil  sta.  Before  this  place 
is  reached,  the  hills  again  close  in  on 
the  line.  Dalma  HiU,  3407  ft.  above 
sea-level,  is  seen  12  m.  £.  It  is  from 
the  country  about  here  that  the  labour- 
ers for  the  tea-cultivation  in  Upper 
Assam  and  Cachar  are  mainly  recruited. 

1095  m.  Pumlia  sta.  The  ^head- 
quarters of  the  Manbhum  District, 
through  which  the  traveller  has  been 
passing  for  many  miles.  The  place 
has  nearly  10,000  inhabitants  and  the 
usual  offices  of  a  civil  station.  From 
here  also  a  road  runs  to  Ranchi. 

1147  m.  ABenaol  junc  sta.  [Branch 
of  about  10  m.  W.  to  the  coal-mines.] 
About  6  m.  before  Asensol  is  reached 
the  river  Damuda  is  crossed  on  a  very 
line  bridge.    From  Asensol  to  Calcutta, 


a  distance  of  132  miles,  the  traveller 
proceeds  by  the  East  Indian  Railway. 
(See  p.  61.) 


ROUTE  4 

Ehandwa  to  Ajmere  (Rajputana 
and  Malwa  Metre  Rly.) 

From  Bombay  853  m.  Khandwa  junc  ita. 
The  traveller  is  here  transferred  to  tiie 
metre-gauge  line. 

At  38  m.,  Hortakka  sta.,  D.B.,  the 
Nerbudda  river  is  crossed  by  a  fine 
bridge,  with  a  cart-road  under  the  rails. 

This  neighbourhood  abounds  in  large 
game  of  every  sort 

[A  good  cart  road  of  6  m.  leads  to 
Unkazji,  a  place  quite  worth  visiting. 
The  best  mode  of  transit  is  by  river 
in  one  of  the  large  flat-bottomed  boats 
found  at  Mortakka,  where  there  is 
accommodation  for  Europeans  at  the 
Serai.  The  stream  is  ascended  before 
the  westerly  breeze,  and  is  descended 
by  oars  with  the  aid  of  the  current 
Provisions  must  be  taken.  The  country 
is  wild,  wooded,  and  the  scenery  on  t3ie 
river  very  beautiful, 

Unkarji  is  more  properly  Omkarji, 
from  the  mystic  syllable  Om  (au 
ejaculation  used  at  the  beginning 
of  a  prayer).  The  Oreai  Temple  oj 
Omkar  is  situated  in  the  island  of 
Mandhata  in  the  Nerbudda.  It  is  said 
that  the  island  was  ori^ally  called 
Baidurya  Mani  Parvat,  but  its  name 
was  changed  to  Mandhata  as  a  boon 
from  Shiva  to  Raja  Mandhatri,  the  17th 
monarch  of  the  Solar  Race,  who  per- 
formed a  great  sacrifice  here  to  that 
deity. 

The  area  of  the  isle  is  about  five- 
sixths  of  a  sq.  m.,  and  a  deep  ravine 
cuts  it  from  N.  to  S.  At  the  N.  the 
ground  slopes  gently,  but  terminates 
at  the  S.  and  E.  in  precipices  500  ft. 
high.  At  this  point  the  S.  bank  of 
the  Nerbudda  is  equally  steep,  and 
between  the  cliffs  the  river  is  exceed- 
ingly deep,  and  full  of  alligators  and 


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ROUTE  4.       UNKARJI 


79 


large  fish.  Hunter  says  that  the  N. 
branch  of  the  Nerbudda  is  called  the 
Kareri,  and  it  is  believed  that  a  stream 
80  called  enters  the  Nerbudda  1  m. 
higher  up,  passes  unmixed  through  it, 
and  again  leaves  it  at  Mandhata,  thus 
making  it  a  double  junction  of  two 
holy  rivers. 

On  both  sides  of  the  river  the  rocks 
are  of  a  greenish  hue,  very  boldly 
stratified.  It  is  said  that  the  Temple 
of  Omkar  and  that  of  Amreshwar  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  river  are  two  of  the 
twelve  great  temples  which  existed  in 
India  when  Mahmud  of  Ghazni  des- 
troyed Somnath  in  1024  a.d.  During 
the  wars  of  the  17th  and  18th  centuries, 
the  S.  banks  were  deserted  and  over- 
grown with  jungle,  and  when  the 
Peshwa  desired  to  repair  the  temple  it 
could  not  be  found,  so  a  new  one  was 
built,  with  a  group  of  smaller  ones. 
Afterwards  part  of  it  was  found,  and 
the  late  Raja  Mandhata  built  a  temple 
over  it ;  but  its  sanctity  and  even  its 
name  have  been  appropriated  by  that 
which  the  Peshwa  built. 

The  Raja  Mandhata,  who  is  hered- 
itary custodiuu  of  the  temples,  is  a 
Bhilala,  who  claims  to  be  28th  de- 
scendant of  the  Ohauhan  Bharat  Sing, 
who  took  Mandhata  from  Nathu  Bhil 
in  1165  A.D.  The  old  temples  have 
suffered  from  the  Mohammedans,  and 
every  dome  has  been  overturned  and 
every  fimire  mutilated.  The  gateways 
are  finely  carved.  The  oldest  temple  in 
that  on  the  Birkhala  rocks  at  the  £. 
Old,  where  devotees  used  to  cast  them- 
idves  over  the  cliflfs  up  till  the  year 
1824,  when  the  custom  was  abandoned. 
The  temple  consists  of  a  courtyard, 
with  a  vei-andah  and  colonnades  sup- 
ported by  massive  pillai-s  boldly  carved. 
On  the  hill  are  the  niins  of  a  very  fine 
Ttmple  to  Siddeshvara  Mahademty  which 
aiood  on  a  plinth  10  ft.  high.  Round 
tie  plinth  was  a  frieze  of  elephants,  5 
ft.  high,  carved  in  relief  with  remark- 
aWe  skill,  on  slabs  of  yellow  sandstone, 
hat  all  but  two  of  the  elephants  ai-e 
mutilated. 

In  front  of  the  Temple  to  Oauri  Som- 
neUh  is  an  inmiense  bull  carved  in  a  fine 
«fre«ii  stone,  and  100  yds.  farther  is  a 
pillar  20  ft.  long.     On  the  island  itself 


all  the  temples  are  Shivite,  but  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  Nerbudda  are  some  old 
temples  to  Vishnu,  and  a  group  of  Jain 
temples.  Where  the  river  bifurcates 
are  some  ruined  gateways,  and  a  large 
building  on  which  are  24  figures  of 
Vishnu,  well  carved  in  green  stone. 
Among  them  is  a  lar^  figure  of  the 
boar  Avatar.  On  an  image  of  Shiva, 
in  the  same  building,  is  the  date  1346 
A.D.  Farther  down  the  bank,  in  the 
Ravana  ravine,  is  a  prostrate  figure 
18}  ft.  long,  with  ten  arms  holding 
clubs  and  skulls.  On  its  chest  is  a 
scorpion,  and  at  its  right  side  a  rat, 
and  one  foot  rests  on  a  prostrate  human 
figure. 

The  bed  of  the  ravine  is  covered  with 
huge  basalt  blocks  slightly  carved. 
The  Jain  Temples  stand  on  an  eminence 
a  little  back  from  the  river.  The 
largest  is  on  a  plinth  of  basalt,  5  ft. 
high.  The  £.  wall  is  still  complete. 
On  each  side  of  the  doorway  is  a  ngure 
with  Shivite  and  Jain  emblems  curi- 
ously intermixed.  The  hills  near  these 
temples,  as  well  as  the  island,  are 
covered  with  remains  of  habitations. 

A  great  fair  is  held  at  the  end  of 
October,  attended  by  15,000  persons. 
According  to  a  prophecy,  the  fulfilment 
of  which  the  Brahmans  at  Mandhata 
anxiously  expect,  the  sanctity  of  the 
Ganges  will  soon  expire  and  be  trans- 
ferrw.  to  the  Nerbudda.  The  scenery 
around  the  island  is  beautiful.] 

58  m.  CHunral  sta.  From  this  point 
the  ascent  of  the  ghat  commences  and 
continues  almost  into  Mhow.  The 
scenery  is  very  fine.  On  approaching, 
71  m.,  Fatal  Paai  sta.  look  out  on  the 
1.  for  the  waterfall  of  that  name. 

74  m.  Mhow  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  in  the 
territory  of  Holkar,  an  important  mili- 
tary cantonment  of  British  and  native 
troops,  headquarters  of  a  first-class 
district  command,  1900  ft.  above 
sea-level,  pop.  27,000.  Troops  are 
stationed  here  as  provided  in  theTreaty 
of  Mandsaur  of  1818.  Mhow  has  no 
special  interest  for  a  traveller.  The 
buildings  and  institutions  are  those 
common  to  all  places  where  troops  are 
stationed. 

[From  Mhow  an  expedition  of  30  m. 
may  be  made  S.W.  to  the  ruined  city 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


80 


ROUTE  4.       KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


India 


of  Mandu,  the  ancient  capital  of  the 
kingdom  of  Malwa.  It  is  in  the  terri- 
tory of  the  Maharaja  of  Dhar,  and 
the  best  route  is  by  tonga  or  carriage 
to  the  town  of  Dhar  (10  m.),  taking  an 
introduction  &om  the  political  agent 
to  the  Maharaja,  who  will  then  make 
arrangements  for  the  remaining  20  m. 
of  the  journey.  Dhar  is  a  walled  town 
of  some  historical  and  archseolo^ical 
interest,  containing  several  ruined 
mosques. 

Another  route,  avoiding  Dhar,  passes  down 
the  main  road  for  about  10  m.,  and  then 
strikes  off  into  the  country  past  Nal(^, 
where  the  ruins  commence.  A  tent  is  neces- 
sary. Small  game  shooting  may  be  obtained 
alon^  the  road,  but  it  is  advisable  to  get  per- 
mission from  tiie  general  at  Mhow,  or  at  any- 
rate  to  inform  the  agent  at  Dhar. 

Mandu  (1944  ft.)  occupies  8  m.  of 
ground,  extending  along  the  crest  of 
the  Vindhyas;  and  is  separated  from 
the  tableland,  with  which  it  is  on  a 
level,  by  a  valley.  The  traveller  can 
pass  the  night  in  one  of  the  temples, 
if  he  does  not  object  to  bats  and  bad 
air,  but  he  will  do  better  to  take  a  tent 
with  him  and  camp  beyond  the  village, 
near  the  Jumma  Musjid,  on  the  verge 
of  the  great  lake.  Paths  have  been  cut 
through  the  jungle  to  all  the  ruins  of 
interest,  the  chief  being  the  Jumma 
Muy'id,  less  injured  than  any  of  the 
others,  and  said  to  be  the  finest  and 
largest  specimen  of  Afghan  architecture 
extant  in  India ;  the  Fort^  the  Water 
Faktce,  the  marble  Mausoleum  of  Ho- 
shamg  Ohor%  King  of  Malwa,  who 
raised  the  city  to  great  splendour ;  and 
the  Palace  of  Baz  Bahadur,  another 
king  of  Malwa.  These  once  magni- 
ficent buildings  are  still,  in  their 
ruined  state,  very  striking  on  account 
of  their  massive  proportions.  The 
fortifications  were  constructed  by 
Hoshang  Ghori,  who  reigned  in  the 
beginning  of  the  15th  cent.,  and  in 
whose  time  the  city  attained  its  greatest 
splendour.  In  1526  Mandogarh  was 
taken  by  Bahadur  Shah,  ruler  of  6u- 
zerat,  and  annexed  to  his  dominions,  of 
which  it  remained  part  until  their  con- 
quest by  Akbar  in  1570.  Of  late  years 
measures  have  been  taken  for  the  preser- 
vation of  some  of  the  most  interesting 
ruins.     According  to  Malcolm,  Mandu 


was  founded  in  313  A.D.  Its  history 
(written  by  a  resident  of  Dhar)  should 
be  looked  at  before  visiting  the  place. 
It  will  be  found  full  of  interest  for  any 
one  who  is  at  all  acquainted  with  the 
ancient  history  of  Malwa.  Sir  Thomas 
Roe,  the  Ambassador  of  James  L  of 
England,  entered  Mandu  in  the  train 
of  Jehangir,  part  of  the  triumphal 
procession  of  the  Great  Mogul  being 
500  elephants.  Sir  T.  R.  complains  in 
his  Memmrs  of  the  lions  which  then 
infested  the  country,  and  killed  one  of 
his  baggage  ponies.  The  Rajas  of  tiie 
towns  Mandu  and  Chitor  were  at  feud 
with  each  other  for  many  years  (see 
Chitor).  From  June  till  Nov.  the 
locality  is  very  unhealthy.  The  place 
is  very  wild,  the  scenery  fine,  and  game 
of  various  sorts,  including  panthers, 
abounds.] 

87  m.  Indore  sta.,  D.B.  This  place 
is  the  capital  of  the  state,  and  the 
residence  of  Holkar  the  Maharaja. 
Pop.  75,000. 

Indore  stands  on  an  elevated  and 
healthy  site.  Of  recent  years  modem 
improvements  have  been  introduced. 
Roads  have  been  metalled,  drains 
built,  the  water-supply  cared  for,  and 
the  principal  streets  lighted.  Among 
the  chief  objects  of  interest  are  the  Lai 
Bagh  or  garden,  the  mint,  high  school, 
market-place,  reading-room,  dispen- 
sary, and  large  cotton-mill.  There  is 
considerable  export  trade  in  grain.  To 
the  W.  of  the  city  is  an  antelope  pre- 
serve. Adjoining  the  town,  on  the 
other  side  of  the  rly.,  is  the  British 
Residency i  an  area  assigned  by  treaty, 
and  containing  not  only  the  house  and 
park  of  the  Governor-Grenerars  agent 
and  the  bungalows  occupied  by  his 
staff  and  other  officials,  but  a  bazaar  of 
some  importance,  and  tiie  central  opium 
stores  and  weighing  agency.  The 
barracks  for  the  Governor- Greneral's 
native  escort  and  the  Rajkumar  College 
for  the  education  of  young  native  chiefs 
and  nobles  are  also  within  the  Resi- 
dency limits.  Here  is  a  Mission  of 
the  Presbyterian  Church  of  Canada. 

The  palace  of  the  Maharsga  Q  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.),  with  its  lofty, 
many-storied  gateway,  is  situated  al- 


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ROUTE  4.       FATEHABAD 


81 


most  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  a 
ooaspictious  object  from  every  part  of 
it  It  faces  E.  and  is  in  a  small  square, 
with  the  Gopal  Mandir  to  the  S., 
wWch  was  built  by  Krishna  Bai,  H.H.'s 
mother.  To  the  W.  of  the  palace  is 
the  Sharafa  Street,  where  the  money- 
lenders, chiefly  Marwaris,  live.  Close 
by  is  the  Haldi  Bazaar,  where  the 
dealers  in  opium  live,  and  the  Itwar, 
or  Sunday  Street,  where  a  market  is 
held  on  Sundays.  At  the  end  of  this 
is  the  old  jail.  H.H.  sometimes  re- 
ceives guests  in  the  Lai  Bagh  mentioned 
above,  which  is  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  contains  a  handsome  villa. 
At  one  end  is  a  house  where  several 
lions  are  kept,  and  there  is  also  an 
aviary.  In  an  upper  room  are  portraits 
of  many  Hindu  Kajas.  In  the  lower 
story  is  a  handsome  hall  of  audience, 
which  looks  out  on  a  ghat  and  on  the 
Snrsuti  river,  which  is  dammed  up 
here.  From  the  terraced  roof  is  a  fine 
view  over  the  country. 

The  Sursuti  river  divides  the  city. 
The  old  capital  of  the  Holkar  family  was 
Maheshvar  in  Nimar,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Nerbudda,  where  is  the  magnificent 
Chattri  (a  monumental  memorial)  of 
Ahalya  Bai,  an  ancestress  of  Holkar.  Sir 
John  Malcolm  says  of  this  lady :  "The 
character  of  her  administration  was  for 
more  than  thirty  years  the  basis  of  the 
prosperity  which  attended  the  dynasty 
to  which  she  belonged.  She  sat  every 
<Uy  for  a  considerable  period  in  open 
<Iurbar  transacting  business.  Her  first 
principle  of  government  appears  to 
have  been  moderate  assessment  and  an 
^ost  sacred  respect  for  the  native 
i«ht8  of  village  officers  and  proprietors 
jfland.  She  heard  every  complaint 
a  person,  and  although  she  continu- 
«fly  referred  causes  to  courts  of  equity 
ad  arbitration,  and  to  her  ministers 
fcr  settlement,  she  was  always  acces- 
iHe,  and  so  strong  was  her  sense  of 
i*y  on  all  points  connected  with  the 
ftl&ibution  of  justice,  that  she  is  re- 
pftBented  as  not  only  patient,  but  un- 
HVwied  in  the  investigation  of  the 
most  insignificant  causes  when  appeals 
were  made  to  her  decision.  It  appears, 
above  all,  extraordinary  how  she  had 
mental  and  bodily  powers  to  go  through 
[India] 


the  labour  she  imposed  upon  herself, 
and  which  from  the  age  of  80  to  that 
of  60,  when  she  died,  was  unremitted. 
The  hours  gained  from  the  affairs  of 
the  state  were  all  given  to  acts  of 
devotion  and  charity,  and  a  deep  sense 
of  religion  appears  to  have  strengthened 
her  mmd  in  performance  of  her  worldly 
duties.  Her  charitable  foundations 
extend  all  over  India,  from  the  Hima- 
layas to  Cape  Comorin,  and  from  Som- 
nath  to  the  Temple  of  Jagannath  in 
the  E."  Ahalya  Bai  is  certainly  the 
most  distinguished  female  character  in 
Indian  history.  This  short  notice  is 
given  as  it  will  probably  add  interest 
to  the  temples  and  ghats  erected  by  her, 
which  the  traveller  will  find  in  almost 
every  place  of  note  he  visits  in  India. 

112  m.  Fatehabad  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
From  here  a  short  branch  line  of  26  m. 
runs  to 

[UJJain  (or  Djjaiyini)  D.B.).  This 
famous  city  (the  Greek 'Oi^viy)  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river  Sipra, 
which  falls  into  the  Chambal  after  a 
total  course  of  120  m.  Ujjain  is  in  the 
dominions  of  the  Maharaja  Sindia  of 
Gwalior  in  Malwa,  of  which  it  was  once 
the  capital.  It  stands  in  N.  lat.  23"  1 1' 
10",  and  is  the  spot  which  marked  the 
first  meridian  of  Hindu  geographers.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  the  seat  of  the  vice- 
royalty  of  Asoka,  during  the  reign  of  his 
father  at  Pataliputra,  the  capital  of 
Magadha,  supposed  to  be  the  modem 
Patna,  about  263  B.C.  It  is,  however, 
best  known  as  the  capital  of  the  cele- 
brated Vikramaditya  (Valour's  sun), 
founder  of  the  era  called  Samvat,  which 
begins  57  B.  c.  He  is  said  to  have  driven 
out  the  Shakas  or  Scythians,  and  to 
have  reigned  over*almost  all  N.  India. 
At  his  court  flourished  the  Nine  Gems 
of  Hindu  literature,  viz.  Dhanvantari, 
Kshapinaka,  Amarasinha,  Shanku, 
Vetala-bhatta,  Ghata-karpara,  Kali- 
dasia,  Varanruchi,  and  Varaha-mihiiu. 
Of  these  the  poet  Ealidasa  has  obtained 
a  European  celebrity.  Ujjain,  as  well 
as  the  whole  province  of  Malwa,  was 
conquered  by  Ala-ud-din  Khilji,  who 
reigned  at  Delhi  1295-1317  a.d.  In 
1387  A.D.  the  Mohammedan  Vicerov 
declared  himself  independent.  ^  His 
name  was   Dilawar    Khan    Ghori,   of 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ  ^ 


KOUTE  4.       KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


Mia 


Afghau  origin,  who  ruled  from  1387 
to  1405,  ana  made  Mandu  his  capital. 
In  1631  Malwa  was  conquered  by 
Bahadur  Shah,  King  of  Guzerat,  and  in 
1671  by  Akbar.  In  1658  the  decisive 
battle  between  Aurangzib  and  Miirad 
and  their  elder  brother  Dara,  was 
fought  near  this  city.  In  1792  Jas- 
want  Rao  Holkar  took  Ujjain,  and 
burned  part  of  it.  It  then  fell  into 
the  hands  of  Sindia,  whose  capital  it 
was  till  1810,  when  Daulat  Rao  Sindia 
removed  to  Gwalior. 

The  ruins  of  ancient  Ujjain  are 
situated  about  1  m.  to  the  N.  of  the 
modern  city,  which  is  oblong  in  shape, 
and  6  m.  in  circumference,  surrounded 
by  a  stone  wall  with  round  towers,  and 
on  all  sides  by  a  belt  of  groves  and 
gardens.  The  principal  bazaar  is  a 
spacious  street,  flanked  by  houses  of 
two  stories,  and  having  also  four 
mosques,  many  Hindu  temples,  and  a 
palace  of  Maharajah  Sindia.  Near  the 
palace  is  an  ancient  gateway,  said  to 
have  been  part  of  Vikramaditya's  fort. 
At  the  S.  end  of  the  city  is  the  Observa- 
tory, erected  by  Jai  Sing,  Rajah  of 
Jeypore,  in  the  time  of  the  Emperor 
Muhammad  Shah.  The  same  prince 
erected  observatories  at  Delhi,  Jeypore, 
Benares,  and  Muttra  (see  Benares 
Observatory).] 

161  m.  Rutiam  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
(Branch  line  W.  by  Godhra  Anand 
junction  for  Baroda,  E.  to  Ujjain),  is  the 
capital  of  a  native  state  and  the  resi- 
dence of  the  chief.  It  was  founded  by 
Ratna,  ^at- grandson  of  Uday  Sing, 
Maharajah  of  Jodhpur.  Ratna  was  at 
the  battle  of  Fatehabad,  near  Ujjain, 
in  which  Jaswant  Rao  Rath  or,  with 
30,000  Rajputs,  fought  Aurangzib  and 
Murad,  with  the  whole  Mogul  army. 
Tod,  vol.  ii.  p.  49,  says,  "Of  all  the 
deeds  of  heroism  performed  that  day, 
those  of  Ratna  of  Ratlam  by  universal 
consent  are  pre-eminent. "  Outside  the 
town  the  chief  has  a  very  charming  villa 
and  garden,  in  which  he  entertains 
guests.  The  palace  in  which  the  Prince 
resides  is  within  the  walls,  and  is  a  fine 
new  building,  with  a  handsome  reception 
room.  The  town  is  a  great  emporium 
for  opium.  There  is  a  Chauk  or 
square,   buUt   by    Munshi    Shahamat 


'  Ali,  who  administered  the  state  during 
the  Raja's  minority.  Beyond  this 
square  is  the  Chandni  Chauk,  in  which 
the  bankers  live ;  and  this  leads  to  the 
Tirpoliya  Gate,  outside  which  is  tiie 
Amrit  Saugar  tank,  which  in  the  rains 
is  very  extensive.  In  the  town  is  a 
college  with  600  students. 

213  m.  Uandasor  sta.  A  fortified 
town,  remarkable  as  being  the  place 
where  in  1818,  at  the  end  of  the 
Pindari  War,  a  treaty  was  made  between 
the  British  Government  and  Holkar. 
Here  severe  fighting  occurred  in  1857 
between  the  rebels  and  a  brigade  of 
British  troops  moving  from  Mhow  to 
relieve  the  British  officers  besieged  in 
the  fort  of  Neemuch.  Early  in  that 
memorable  year  Mandasor  became  the 
headquarters  of  a  serious  rebellion 
which  threatened  all  Malwa. 

243  m.  Neemuoh  sta.  ^Oc  (R.),  D.B.,  is 
on  the  Rajputana  and  Malwa  Rly.  line. 
A  cantonment  of  British  troops  con- 
taining the  usual  barracks  and  sub- 
sidiary buildings,  also  a  small    fort 
Neemuch  was  about  the  most  southerly 
place  to  which  the  mutiny  extended. 
In  1867  the  place  was  garrisoned  by  a 
brigade  of  native  troo^  of  all  arms  of 
the  Bengal  army.    This  force  mutinied 
and  marched  to  Delhi,  the  European 
officers  taking  refuge  in  the  fort,  wnere 
they  were  besieged  by  a  rebel  force  from 
Mandsaur,   ana  defended   themselves 
gallantly  until  relieved  \>j  a  brigade 
n'om  Mhow.    Some  42  ladies  and  non- 
combatants  found  refuge  at  Oodeypur. 
278  m.  Chitor  sta.  ^     (Branch  line 
to  Debari  for  Oodeypore  p.  85).     The 
Gambheri  river  is  crossed  oy  a  massive 
old  bridge  of  gray  limestone,  witii  ten 
arches,  all  of  pointed  shape,  except  the 
sixth  from  the  W.  bank,  which  is  semi- 
circular.     The  gateways  and   towers 
which  existed  at  either  end  of  the  bridge 
have  now  disappeared.    Unfortunately 
the  bridge  is  deficient  in  water-way,  so 
that  floods  pass  over  the  parapets  and 
cut  into  the  banks,  and  consequently 
the  ford  has  to  be  used.    The  date  and 
builder  of  the  bridge  are  not  known,  bat 
it  is  popularly  said  to  have  been  built 
by  Ari  Sing,  son  of  Rana  Lakshman, 
both  of  whom  were  killed  in  the 
by  'Alau-ud-din,  about  1308  A.©. 


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BOUTB  4.      CHITOR 


83 


When  Chitor  was  the  capital  of 
Mewar,  the  city  was  up  in  the  fort, 
and  the  htdldings  below  were  merely 
an  outer  bazaar.  The  modem  town, 
called  the  Talehti  or  Lower  Town  of 
I  Chitor,  is  little  more  than  a  walled 
village,  with  narrow,  crooked  streets, 
resembling  an  outwork  to  the  lower 
gate  of  the  principal  W.  entrance  to 
the  great  Fort. 

The  abrupt  rocky  hill  crowned  by 
this  magnificent  Fort  rises  500  ft.  above 
the  surrounding  country,  and  is  a  very 
conspicuous  object,  though  its  great 
length  of  3|  m.  makes  it  lo%  lower  than 
it  i^ally  is.  The  whole  of  the  summit 
is  covered  with  ruins  of  palaces  and 
temples,  and   the  slopes  with  thick 

ale.  A  single  ascent  1  m.  Icng 
(  to  the  summit,  and  is  defended 
at  intervals  by  seven  very  fine  monu- 
mental gateways,  large  enough  to  con- 
tain gn^*d-rooms  and  even  nne  halls. 
They  are  the  Padal  Pol,  the  nearly 
obliterated  (Broken)  Bhairo  or  Phuta 
Pol,  the  Hanuman  Pol,  the  Ganesh  Pol, 
the  Jorla  Pol,  the  Lakshman  Pol,  and 
the  main  gate,  or  Ram  Pol. 

Immediately  outside  the  Padal  Pol 
on  the  L  is  an  erect  stone  marking  the 
spot  where  Bagh  Sing,  the  chief  of 
Ueolia  Pratapgarh,  was  killed  during 
the  siege  of  Cnitor  by  Bahadur  Shah  of 
Giuerat,  iii  1535. 

Between  the  "  Broken  "  and  the  Hanu- 
nan  gates  there  are  on  the  rt.  two 
chattris  marking  the  spots  where  the 
K&owned  Jaimall  of  Bednor  and  his 
diBsman  Kalla  were  killed  in  Akbar's 
siege,  in  1568.  Ealla  carried  his 
voonded  chief  down  to  have  a  last 
sboke  at  the  enemy,  and  died,  fighting. 
"^  39  memorial  stones  are  mucn 
^'derated,  as  if  marking  the  shrine  of 
3«*e  minor  deity. 

facing  the  great  gate  is  a  pillared 
Ml  used  as  a  guardhouse,  and  ap- 
pvintly  of  ancient  construction.  From 
tiatop  of  this  hall,  on  which  there  are 
t* four-pillared  chattris,  a  fine  view  of 
tivplain  is  obtained. 

tte  Ram  Pol  is  a  large  and  hand- 
9me  gateway,  crowned  by  a  Hindu 

^  for  a  striking  account  of  this  wonderftQ 
rort,  see  The  Naulakha  and  LOtwM  (JMa/rgue, 
botti  by  Rndyard  Kipling. 


horizontal  arch,  in  which  the  npper 
courses  of  either  side,  projecting  in- 
wards, overlap  each  other  till  they 
meet,  or  nearly  so,  being  then  slabbed 
over.  This  is  the  construction  of  all 
the  gateways  on  the  ascent,  except  the 
Jorla,  though  in  one,  the  Lakshman, 
the  lower  angles  of  the  projecting 
courses  are  sloped  off,  giving  the  whole 
the  outline  of  a  regular  pomted  arch. 
Inside  the  gate,  on  each  side,  is  a  fine 
hall,  supported  on  square-shaped  and 
slightly  tapering  antique  pillars. 

Within,  directly  facing  the  gate, 
the  hill  a^n  rises  steeply,  and  at  the 
foot  of  this  upper  rise  is  a  chattri  mark- 
ing where  Patta  Sing  felL 

The  site  of  the  old  city  is  eveiy. 
where  covered  with  ruins.  The  chief 
objects  of  interest  are  the  Towers  of 
Fame  and  Victory,  the  only  two  remain- 
ing of  a  great  number  of  similar  monu- 
ments which  probably  once  adorned  the 
brow  of  Chitor. 

The  old  Jain  Towar  of  Fame  stands 
up  grandly  on  the  E.  rampart.  This 
tower  is  called  the  small  Kirthanay 
which  is  a  contraction  of  Eirthi 
Stambh.  Fergusson  thus  describes  it: 
"One  of  the  most  interesting  Jaina 
monuments  of  the  age  (the  first  or 
great  age  of  Jaina  architecture,  which 
extended  down  to  about  the  year  1300, 
or  perhaps  a  little  after  that)  is  the 
tower  of  Sri  AUat  (Rana  Alluji).  It  is 
a  singularly  elegant  specimen  of  its 
class,  about  80  ft.  in  height,  and 
adorned  with  sculptures  and  mouldings 
from  the  base  to  the  summit.  An 
inscription  once  existed  at  its  base, 
which  gave  its  date  as  896  A.D.,  and 
though  the  slab  was  detached,  this  is 
so  nearly  the  date  we  shouM  arrive  at 
from  the  style  that  there  seems  little 
doubt  that  it  was  of  that  age.  It  was 
dedicated  to  Adnath,  the  first  of  the 
Jaina  Tirthankars,  and  his  figure  is 
repeated  some  hundreds  of  times  on 
the  face  of  the  tower ;  but  so  far  as  I 
could  perceive,  not  that  of  any  of  the 
other  Jaina  saints.  The  temple  in  the 
foreground,  S.  side,  is  of  a  more  modem 
date,  being  put  together,  principally, 
of  fragments  of  other  bnildings,  which 
have  disappeared." 

The  tower  consists  of  seven  stories, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


J 


84 


ROUTE  4.      KHANDWA  TO  AJMERE 


India 


with  an  internal  narrow  and  oramped 
staircase ;  the  top  storey  is  open,  and  its 
roof,  which  rests  on  pillars,  and  has  been 
much  damaged  by  lightning,  has  bushes 
growing  on  it  Its  construction  is  locally 
attributed  by  some  to  Ehatan  Rani,  wile 
of  Khata  Bana,  and  by  others  to  Allata 
Rana,  who  ruled  a.d.  950  or  accordmg 
to  Tod  A.D.  896.  Fragments  of  an  in- 
scribed stone  are  on  the  ground  under 
a  tree  just  N.  of  the  tower. 

From  the  W.  ridge  the  view  opens  out, 
and  a  semicircular  valley  is  seen  with  the 
Elephant  reservoir  close  to  the  cliff  and 
a  baclqground  of  trees,  out  of  which  rises 
the  magnificent  Jaya-stambh  or  Tower 
of  Victory.  Of  this  Mr.  Fergusson  says : 
''To  Kumbo,  who  reigned  from  1418-68, 
we  owe  this  tower,  which  was  erected  to 
commemorate  his  victory  over  Mahmud, 
kine  of  Malwa,  in  1439.  It  is  a  Pillar 
of  Victory,  like  that  of  Trajan  at  Rome, 
but  of  inhnitely  better  taste  as  an  archi- 
tectural object.  It  has  nine  storeys, 
each  of  which  is  distinctly  marked  on 
the  outside.  A  stair  in  the  centre 
leads  to  each  storey,  the  two  upper  ones 
being  open  and  more  ornamented  than 
Idiose  below.  It  stands  on  a  base  47  ft. 
square  and  10  ft.  high,  and  is  30  ft. 
square  rising  to  a  height  of  122  ft.,  the 
whole  being  covered  with  ornaments  and 
sculptures  to  such  an  extent  as  to  leave 
no  plain  part,  while  this  mass  of  decora- 
tion is  kept  so  subdued  that  it  in  no  way 
interferes  with  the  outline  or  general 
effect.  The  old  dome  was*  injured  bjy^ 
lightning,  and  a  new  one  was  substi- 
tuted by  H.  H.  Sarup  Sing.  The  stair 
is  much  wider  and  easier  than  that  in 
the  Jain  tower  (the  small  Eirthan),  and 
in  the  inside  are  carvings  of  Hindu 
deities  witb  the  names  below.  In  the 
top  storey  are  2  of  the  original  4  slabs 
with  long  inscriptions.  The  tower  took 
7  to  10  yrs.  to  build,  from  1548  to 
1558.  On  the  road  at  the  comer  of  the 
lower  platform  is  a  square  pillar  record- 
ing a  sati  in  1468,  A.D." 

Close  by  the  gate  of  the  Sun,  on  the 
E.  rampart,  are  two  large  tanks,  and  ad- 
Joining  them  is  the  fine  Palace  of  Bana 
Kpmbo,  the  builder  of  the  Tower  of 
Victory,  a  fine  example  of  the  domestic 
architecture  of  RajpJutana  before  the 
Mussulman  invasion,  showing  all  the 


beautv  of  detail  which  chamctoises 
such  buildings  in  generaL  In  front  is 
a  court  surrounded  by  guard-roonuand 
entered  by  a  vaulted  gateway. 

The  Palace  of  Batna  Sing  (or  Bhim) 
is  a  very  pleasing  example  of  the  style  of 
the  Hindu  architecture  of  this  country 
in  the  13th  cent  That  of  his  wile 
Rani  Padmani  is  a  lai^e  and  beautiful 
building  overlooking  the  tank.  From 
one  of  these  palaces  Akbar  carried  off 
the  famous  gates  now  in  the  fort  at  Agra. 

The  Temple  of  Vriji,  built  by  Bana 
Eumbo  about  1450,  is  a  massive  build- 
ing with  a  sikra  (or  tower)  of  unusu- 
ally large  proportions.  Adjoining  it 
is  a  temple,  in  the  same  style, 
built  by  his  wife,  the  famous  Mira  Bai, 
of  which  the  chief  peculiarity  is  that 
the  procession  path  round  the  cell  is 
an  open  colonnade  with  four  small 
pavilions  at  the  comers. 

At  the  highest  point  in  Chitor  a  broad 
terrace  has  been  made,  whence  there 
is  a  magnificent  view. 

Near  the  Tower  of  Victory  is  the 
Mahasata,  a  small  wooded  terrace,  the 
pleasantest  spot  on  the  hill,  which  was 
the  place  of  cremation  of  the  Banas 
before  Oodeypur  was  founded.  Below, 
on  a  lower  terrace,  are  the  Gaumukh 
springs  and  reservoir.  The  sjHings 
issue  from  the  cliff  at  places  where  are 
cow-mouth  carvings,  hence  the  name. 
To  the  S.W.  is  a  large  carved  stone 
temple,  built  by  Rana  Muka^L  On 
the  back  wall  is  a  huge  carved  head. 

A  branch  line  runs  from  Chitor  to 
Debari,  whence  there  is  a  regular  service 
of  vehicles  toOodeypore,  8  milesdistant 
Dabok,  where  Uvea  Colonel  Tod,  the 
first  Resident  and  author  of  the  **  Annals 
of  Ragastan,"  lies  in  ruins  a  few  miles 
south  of  Debari. 

About  1  m.  before  reaching  the  capi* 
tal,  the  Arh  river  is  crossed,  with 
the  old  ruined  town  of  that  name 
on  its  banks.  This  stream  collects 
the  whole  drainage  of  the  Girwa, 
the  natural  outlet  from  which  was 
dammed  up  with  an  immense  masonry 
embankment  by  Maha  Rana  Udai 
Sing.  He  thus  formed  the  Udai 
Saugar  Lake,  the  surplus  waters  from 
which,  escaping,  form  the  Birach  riven 

Oodeypore,  or  Udaypur,  the  marvel* 


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ROUTE  4.      OODEYPORE 


85 


londy  picturesque  capital  of  the  state 
of  Mewar,  the  residence  of  the  Maha- 
rana,  Samp  Sing,  and  of  the  British 
fiesident,  to  whom  a  suitable  intro- 
I     dflction  should  be  brought. 

It  is  difficult  to  conceive  anything 
more  beautiful  than  the  situation  of  this 
place.  It  may  be  described  as  the  centre 
of  the  Lake  District  of  India.  Some  of 
the  best  views  are  obtained  from  the 
palace,  the  embankment,  or  the  Dudh 
Talao,  more  especially  in  the  morning, 
when  the  early  sun  lights  up  the  marble 
of  the  water  palaces,  with  the  dark 
water  beyond,  and  the  still  darker  back- 
ground of  the  hills. 

The  Oity  is  surrounded  by  a  bastioned 
wall,  which  towards  the  S.  encloses 
several  large  gardens.  The  W.  side  is 
farther  protected  by  the  lake,  and  the 
N.  and  E.  sides  by  a  moat  supplied 
from  the  lake,  while  on  the  S.  the 
fortified  hill  of  Eklinjgarh  rises  steep 
and  rugged.  The  principal  gateways 
are  the  Hathi  Pol  or  "  Elephant  Gate," 
to  the  N.  ;  the  Kherwara  Gate,  to  the 
S. ;  the  Suiaj  Pol,  or  "Gate  of  the 
Snn,"  on  the  E. ;  and  the  Delhi  Gate. 
On  the  side  towards  the  lake  is  a 
handsome  TirpoUyay  or  three-arched 
water  gateway.  Another  gate  with 
massive  arches  opens  on  a  bridge,  and 
leads  to  a  suburb  on  the  W.  of  the  lake. 
The  beautiful  Pola  Lake  lies  to  the 
W.  of  the  city.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
constructed  in  portions  at  different 
periods.  TJdai  Sing  probably  com- 
menced it.  The  N.  portion  is  called  the 
Samp  Saugar,  having  been  constructed 
by  liaha  Rana  Samp  Sing.  The  groves 
and  palaces  on  the  islands  are  so  l^auti- 
fal  ^at  the  traveller  will  be  glad  to 
pais  wie  whole  day  there ;  but  the  boats 
<a  the  lake  belong  to  the  Maha  Rana, 
aad  are  only  obtainable  through  the 
Boident.  There  is  fine  makseer  and 
otW  fishing  in  the  lake,  for  which 
pttmission  must  be  obtained.  In  one 
of  the  Palaces  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan, 
then  Prince  Salim,  took  shelter  from 
tie  displeasure  of  his  father  Jehangir. 
Here  are  retained  some  relics  of  the 
ftince,  and  there  is  a  handsome  shrine 
of  polished  stone.  Here  too  the  42 
rafiogees  from  Neemuch,  at  the  time  of 
the  Mutiny,  were  received  and  pro- 


tected by  the  Maha  Rana  Sarup  Sing. 
From  another  of  the  palaces,  Outram 
when  taunted  by  the  Maha  Rana, 
spi-ang  into  the  lake,  swarming  though 
it  was  with  alligators,  who  were  being 
fed,  and  swam  to  shore.  The  fine 
Hindu  Temple  is  a  perfect  example  of 
the  Indo- Aryan  style.  **  The  porch  is 
covered  with  a  low  pyramidal  roof, 
placed  diagonally  on  the  substructure, 
and  rising  in  steps,  each  of  which  is 
ornamented  with  vases  or  urns  of 
varying  shapes.  The  tower  is  orna- 
mented by  four  flat  bands,  of  great 
beauty  and  elegance  of  design,  between 
each  of  which  are  35  little  repetitions 
of  itself,  placed  one  above  the  other  in 
5  tiers,  the  whole  surmounted  by  an 
amalaka,  and  an  urn  of  very  elegant 
design.  Every  part  is  carved  with  great 
precision  and  delicacy."  (Ferguson.) 
A  day  should  be  spent  in  a  visit  to 
the  lUyyal  Palace  on  the  brink  of  the 
lake,  if  permission  can  be  obtained 
from  the  Resident.  The  modem  part 
of  the  palace,  close  above  the  lake, 
is  the  part  most  accessible.  *'  It  is  a 
most  imposing  pile  of  granite  and 
marble,  of  quadrangular  shape,  rising 
at  least  100  ft.  from  the  ground,  and 
flanked  with  octagonal  towers,  crowned 
with  cupolas.  Altnough  built  at  various 
periods,  uniformity  of  design  has  been 
well  preserved  ;  nor  is  there  in  the  East 
a  more  striking  structure.  It  stands 
upon  the  very  crest  of  a  ridge,  running 
parallel  to,  but  considerably  elevated 
above  the  margin  of  the  lake.  The 
terrace,  which  is  at  the  E.  and  chief 
front  of  the  palace,  extends  throughout 
its  length,  and  is  supported  by  a  triple 
row  of  arches,  from  the  declivity  of 
the  ridge.  The  height  of  this  arcaded 
wall  is  full  60  ft.,  and  although  all  is 
hollow  beneath,  yet  so  admirably  is 
it  constructed,  that  an  entire  range  of 
stables  is  built  on  the  extreme  verge 
of  the  terrace,  on  which  all  the  forces 
of  the  Maha  Rana,  elephants,  cavalry, 
and  infantry,  are  often  assembled. 
From  this  terrace  the  city  and  the  valley 
lie  before  the  spectator,  whose  vision  is 
bounded  only  by  the  distant  hills; 
while  from  the  summit  of  the  palace 
nothing  obstructs  the  view  over  lake 
and  mountain."    There  is  a  hospital, 

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India 


church,  and  home  of  the  U.P.  Church 
of  Scotland. 

A  driye  should  he  taken  along  the 
principal  street  of  Oode3rpur  from  the 
Hathi  Pol  through  the  main  hazaar  to 
the  Palace,  ^adually  rising  along  the 
side  of  the  ndge  and  passing  the  great 
Jagdes  Temple.  Another  drive  leads 
through  the  hazaars  from  either  the 
Delhi  or  Suraj  Pol  Gate  to  the  Ottkib 
Gurdea^  which,  with  its  stately  trees, 
beautiful  flowers,  walks  and  fountains, 
is  well  worth  a  visit.  Passing  through 
it,  go  to  the  IhjiM,  TcUao  or  *'muk 
tank,"  a  branch  of  the  Pechola  Lake, 
and  by  a  picturesque  road  round  it  re- 
turning to  the  D.  B.  by  the  outside  road. 

Another  visit  may  oe  made  to  Ahar^ 
3  m.  to  the  E.  of  the  lake,  where  are 
the  cenotaphs  of  the  Maharanas.  These 
chattris  containing  the  royal  ashes  stand 
in  what  is  called  the  Mahasati  or  royal 
place  of  cremation,  which  is  enclosed  by 
a  lofty  wall  and  is  adorned  by  many  fine 
trees.  The  most  remarkable  are  those 
of  Sangram  Singh  ILj  a  large  and 
beautifal  structure,  and  of  Amara  Singh, 
grandson  of  Udai  Singh.^  Besides  the 
modem  village  of  Ahar,  there  is  the  older 
town,  where  are  ruined  temples,  which 
are  the  chief  objects  of  interest,  and  also 
some  still  more  ancient  mounds. 

If  he  has  time,  the  traveller  may  go  to 
see  the  great  lake  at  Kankroliy  or  Kaj- 
nagar,  called  the  Bajsamudra,  80  m.  to 
the  N.  of  Oodejrpur.  The  retaining  wall 
of  this  lake  is  of  massive  masonry,  in 
many  places  40  ft.  high.  The  Band  or 
Ghat  is  1115  ft.  long,  with  pavilions  and 
torans  or  ornamental  arches  all  of 
marble ;  behind  is  an  embankment  35 
yds.  wide.  It  was  erected  (1660)  as  a 
famine  work.  There  is  a  fair  cart-track 
to  this  place. 

The  Dhibar,  or  Jaisamand  lake, 
is  about  20  m.  S.E.  of  Oodeypur  city 
through  a  wild  country ;  it  is  about 
9  m.  K>ng  by  5  m.  broad,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  sights  in  India.] 

379  m.  Nuueerabad  sta.,  D.B. 
The  military  cantonment  for  Ajmere. 
The  station  was  originally  laid  out  in 
1818  by  Sir  David  Ochterlony.  It  is  a 
long,  strangling  place.  Some  interest 
IS  attached  to  Nusseerabad  from  the 
*  See  FeiguMon. 


fact  that  when  the  mutiny  broke  out 
in  1857,  the  Bombay  Cavaliy  (1st)  were 
compelled  to  remain  neutral— tiboufh 
loyally  inclined — as  the  families  of  the 
native  officers  and  men  were  tt  the 
mercy  of  a  Bengal  regiment,  who 
mutinied  and  marched  on  Ajmere.  A 
cavalry  skirmish  took  place  near  where 
the  railway  station  now  stands,  in 
which  several  officers  lost  their  lives. 
None  of  the  officers'  bungalows  of  the 
1st  cavalry  were  touched.  One  officer, 
on  his  return  to  Nusseerabad  in  more 
peaceful  times,  found  even  his  dock 
on  mantelpiece  as  he  left  it.  Good 
small -game  shooting  and  pig-sticking 
are  to  be  had  in  the  neighbourhood. 
Here  is  a  Scottish  (U.P.)  Mission. 
393  m.  Ajmere  junc.  sta.  (see  Rte.  6.) 


ROUTE  6 
Itarsi    Junction     to     Oa^itnfobe, 

THROUGH     BhOPAL,     BhILSA,     ASH 

Jhanbi. 

Itarsi  junc  sta.  464  m.  from  Bombay 
on  the  G.I.P.  Railway  (see  Rte.  1). 

11  m.  HoBhangabad  sta.,  D.B.  A 
town  with  population  of  16,000 ;  the 
headquarters  of  a  district  of  the  same 
name.  The  place  contains  nothing  to 
detaiA  a  traveller.  Passing  out  of  Hosh- 
angabad  the  railway  crosses  the  Ner- 
buada  on  a  fine  bndge.  About  4  m. 
N.  of  the  Nerbudda  river  the  ascent 
of  the  ghat  commences,  and  at  the  top 
the  line  runs  on  the  tableland  of 
Malwa,  which  has  an  average  elevation 
of  1500  ft 

57  m.  Bhopal  sta.  (R).  D.B.   [Branch 
to  Ujjain].     The  town  stands  on  tfie  N. 
bank  of  a  fine  and  extensive  lake,  4}  m. 
long  and  IJ  broad.  Bhopal  is  the  capita] 
of  a  native  state,  under  the  Oentra] 
Indian  Agency.   It  has  an  area  of  820C 
sq.  m.  The d3masty  was  founded  by  Dosj 
Muhammad,  an  Afghan  chief  in  t] 
service  of  Aurangzib,  who  took  adva 
tage  of  the  troubles  that  followed  1 
Emperor's  death  to  establish  his  in< 
pendence.  His  familv  have  always  sho^ 
their  friendship  for  the  British.  In  1 T 
when  General  Goddard  made  his  fiunc 
march  across  India,   Bhopal  was  t 
only  Indian  sUifi  which  showed  its 

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Mendly.  In  1809,  when  General  Close 
commanded  another  expedition  in  the 
neighbourhood,  the  Nawab  of  Bbopal 
applied  to  be  received  under  British 
notection,  but  without  success.  The 
Nawab  then  obtained  assistance  from 
the  Pindaris,  in  the  gallant  struggle  he 
maintained  to  defend  himself  against 
Sindia  and  Baghoji  Bhonsla,  in  the 
course  of  which  his  capital  underwent 
a  severe  but  ineffectual  siege. 

In  1817  the  British  Government  in- 
tervened and  formed  an  alliance  with 
the  Nawab  of  Bhopal,  who  was  in 
1818  guaranteed  his  possessions  by 
treaty,  on  condition  of  furnishing  600 
horse  and  400  infantry,  to  maintain 
which  five  districts  in  Malwa  were 
assigned  to  him.  He  was  soon  after- 
waids  killed  by  a  pistol  accidentally 
discharged  by  a  child.  His  nephew,  an 
infant,  was  declared  his  successor,  and 
betrothed  to  his  infant  daughter,  but 
the  IJawab's  widow,  Khudsya  Begam, 
endeavoured  to  keep  the  government 
in  her  own  hands,  and  the  declared 
heir  resigned  his  claim  to  the  throne 
and  to  the  hand  of  the  Nawab's  daughter 
Sikandar  Begam  in  favour  of  his  brother 
Jehangir  Muhammad.  After  long  dis- 
sensions, Jehangir  Muhammad  was  in- 
stalled as  Nawab,  in  1837,  through  the 
mediation  of  the  British.  He  died  in 
1844,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  widow, 
Si]candar  Begam,  who  ruled  till  her 
death  in  1868.  She  left  one  daughter, 
8bdi  Jehan  Begam.  The  State  main- 
tains 694  horse,  2200  foot,  14  field  guns 
and  43  other  guns,  with  291  artillery- 
men, and  pays  £20,000  to  the  British 
Government  in  lieu  of  a  contingent. 

The  name  of  Bhopal  is  said  to  be 
derived  from  that  of  its  founder,  Raja 
ftoj,  and  the  dam  by  which  he  formed 
'fte  Tank,  dam  being  in  Hindu  paL 
thus  BhojjMil  has  been  corrupted  into 
Aopal.  The  city  proper  is  enclosed 
%  a  masonry  wall,  2  m.  in  circuit. 

The  traveller  should  visit  the  Palace 
4  the  Begam,  which  is  not  of  much 
»ehitectural  beauty,  but  is  a  large  and 
llQiofiing  building;  the  Citadel,  from 
pf»  walls  of  wMai  a  fine  view  of  the 
Jake  and  surrounding  country  is  ob- 
tained; the  Jiimma  Musjid,  built  by 
^  late  Khudsya  Begam;  the  Moti 


Musjid,  built  by  the  late  Sikandar 
Begam  (it  somewhat  resembles  the 
Mosque  at  Delhi) ;  the  MirU  and  Ar- 
senal, and  the  Gardens  of  the  Khudsya 
and  Sikandar  Begams. 

The  town  of  Bhopal  is  well  kept  and 
lighted,  and  fairly  clean.  In  the  city 
proper,  water  has  been  laid  on  to  all 
the  houses.  The  Water-works  were 
built  by  the  Khudsya  Begam,  and  are 
much  superior  to  those  of  most  Indian 
cities.  The  s7naUer  lake  E.  of  the  town, 
2  m.  long,  was  constructed  by  Chota 
Khan,  minister  of  Nawab  Hyat  . 
Muhammad  Khan,  a  former  ruler  of 
Bhopal.  The  dam  is  of  masonry,  and 
is  an  imposing  work. 

90  m.  Bhilsa  sta.  A  fortified  town 
in  the  Gwalior  state.  Pop.  7000.  The 
town  is  situated  on  the  rt.  or  E.  bank 
of  the  river  Betwa,  and  is  perched  on 
a  rock  of  1546  ft.  above  sea-level,  and 
has  a  fort  enclosed  by  a  castellated 
stone  wall,  and  sun-ounded  by  a  ditch  ; 
the  suburb  outside  has  some  spacious 
streets  containing  good  houses.  In  the 
fort  lies  an  old  gun,  19^  ft  in  length, 
with  a  bore  of  10  in.,  said  to  have  been 
made  by  order  of  the  Emperor  Jehaiigir. 
After  changing  hands  several  times, 
Bhilsa  was  finally,  in  1570,  incorporated 
with  the  Empire  of  Delhi  by  Akbar. 
The  tobacco  produced  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  town  is  considered  the  finest  in 
India.  Bhilsa  is  now  chiefly  note- 
worthy as  a  famous  place  of  Hindu  pil- 
grimage to  the  temples,  picturesq^uely 
situated  in  the  bed  of  the  Betwa  nver, 
and  as  giving  its  name  to  the  remark- 
able and  interesting  series  of  Buddhist 
Topes  found  in  its  neighbourhood.^ 

Mr.  Fergusson  says,  in  his  History 
of  Architecture  :  "The  most  extensive, 
and  perhaps  the  most  interesting  group 
of  topes  in  India,  is  that  known  as  the 
Bhilsa  Topes:  within  a  district  not 
exceeding  10  m.  E.  and  "W.,  and  6  m. 
N.  and  S.,  are  five  or  six  groups  of 
topes,  containing  altogether  between 
25  and  30  individual  examples." 

1  These  are  described  in  General  Cunning- 
ham's BhiUa  Topes,  1  voL  8vo.  1854 ;  also  In 
Fergusson's  Tree  and  Serpent  Worship.  One  half 
of  this  book  and  46  of  its  plates,  besides  wood- 
cuts, are  devoted  to  the  illustration  of  the 
Great  Tope.  A  cast  of  the  B.  gateway  is  in  the 
South  Kensington  and  Edinburgh  Museums, 

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Notwithstanding  all  that  has  been 
written  about  them,  we  know  very  little 
that  is  certain  regarding  their  object 
and  their  history. 

5  m.  from  Bhilsa  is  Sanohi,  A  where 


there  is  a  group  of  11  topes, 
the  principal  is — 


Of  these 


cended  by  a  broad  double  ramp  on  one 
side.  It  was  probably  used  for  proces- 
sions round  the  monument  The  centre 
of  the  mound  is  quite  solid,  being  of 
bricks  laid  in  mud,  but  the  exterior  is 
faced  with  dressed  stones,  over  which 
was  cement  nearly  4  in.  thick,  origin- 
ally adorned,  no  doubt,  with  paintings 
or  ornaments  in  relief 

As  is  usual  in  these  Buddhist  topes, 
the  building  is  surrounded  by  **  rails," 
exhibiting  the  various  steps  by  which 
the  modes  of  decorating  them  were 
arrived  at,  with  4  gateways  or  torans 
(3  m  situ),  covered  with  most  elaborate 
sculptures,  quite  unequalled  by  any 
other  examples  known  to  exist  in  India. 
The  period  of  erection  probably  ex- 
tended from  about  250  B.C.  to  the  Ist 
cent,  of  the  Christian  era;  the  rails 
were  constructed  first  and  the  gate- 
ways at  intervals  afterwards. 

Besides  the  gi-oup  at  Sanchi,  tliere  is 
at  Sonari,  6  m.  off,  a  group  of  eight 
topes,  of  which  two  are  important  struc- 
tures in  square  courtyards,  and  in  one 
of  these  numerous  relics  were  found. 
At  SadharOf  3  m.  farther,  is  a  tope  101 
ft.  in  diameter,  which  yielded  no  relics. 


Section  Great  Tope  at  Sanchi. 


L 


The  Chreat  Tope,  a  dome  106  ft.  in 
diameter  and  42  ft.  high.  On  the  top 
is  a  fiat  space  34  ft.  in  diameter,  once 
surrounded  by  a  stone  railing.  In  the 
centre  was  a  **Tee,"  intended  to  repre- 
sent a  relic-casket.  The  dome,  42  ft. 
high,  rasts  on  a  sloping  base  120  ft.  in 
diameter,  and  14  ft.  high,  and  was  as- 


In  one  tope,  24  ft.  in  diameter,  were 
found  relics  of  Sariputra  and  others 
like  those  found  at  Sanchi. 

At  Bhojpur,  7  m.  from  Sanchi,  are 
37  topes,  the  largest  66  ft.  in  diameter, 
and  in  the  next  to  it  important  relics 
were  found.  At  Andher,  6  m.  W.  of 
Bhojpur,  is  a  group  of  three  small  but 


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ROUTE  6.       SAUGOR 


89 


?e(y  interesting  topes.  **  As  fai'  as  can 
beat  present  ascertained,"  says  Mr.  Fer- 
gmson, "  there  is  no  reason  for  assuming 
that  any  of  these  topes  are  earlier  than 
the  age  of  Asoka,  220  B.C.,  nor  later 
than  the  1st  century  a.d.,  though  their 
mis  may  be  later." 

In  1883,  by  order  of  the  Grovemment 
of  India,  the  main  group  of  buildings 
received  much  attention.  The  fallen 
gateways  were  set  up.  The  sacred  rails 
were  secured,  and,  where  fallen,  were 
re-erected.  The  body  of  the  stupa  was 
restored  to  its  original  shape,  and  the 
processional  paths  were  cleared.  Where 
it  was  necessary  to  put  in  new  stone 
for  structural  purposes  the  surfaces  have 
been  left  quite  plain. 

143  m.  Bina  junc.  sta.  (R.)  A  line 
from  here  runs  S.K  over  an  undulating 
coontiy  to  Saugor  and  Dnmmon. 

[47  m.  Saugor,  D.B.  Principal  town 
and  headquarters  of  Saugor  district. 
Central  Provinces.  A  military  canton- 
ment Pop.  44,000.  Saugor  stands  1940 
ft.  above  sea-level,  on  the  borders  of 
a  fine  lake,  nearly  1  m.  broad,  from 
vhich  it  derives  its  name.  The  lake  is 
said  to  be  an  ancient  Banjara  work,  but 
the  present  city  dates  only  from  the 
end  of  the  17th  cent,  and  owes  its 
riae  to  a  Bundela  RajaJi,  who  built  a 
small  fort  on  the  site  of  the  present 
stmcture  in  1660,  and  founded  a  village 
called  Parkota,  now  a  quarter  of  the 
modem  town.  Saugor  was  next  held 
by  Chatar  Sal,  and  formed  part  of 
tie  territory  left  by  him  on  his  death 
10  his  ally  the  Peshwa.  Govind  Pandit 
was  appointed  by  the  Peshwa  to  ad- 
minister the  countiy,  and  his  descend- 
aats  continued  to  manage  it  till 
Aortly  before  it  was  ceded  to  the 
Bdtish  Government  by  the  Peshwa  Baji 
Bao  in  1818.  During  this  period  the 
tetn  was  twice  plundered  by  the  Pin- 
doi  chief  Amir  Khan  and  his  army, 
and  again  by  Sindia  in  1804.  During 
the  Mutiny  of  1857  the  town  and  fort 
wm  held  by  the  English  for  eight 
menths,  until  the  arrival  of  Sir  Hugh 
Rose.  During  that  time  the  whole  of 
the  surrounding  country  was  in  posses- 
ttittiof  thereb^ 


Saugor  town  is  well  built,  with  wide 
streets.  The  large  bathing-ghats  on  the 
banks  of  the  lake,  for  we  most  part 
surrounded  with  Hindu  temples,  add 
much  to  its  appearance. 

The  existing  Fort  at  Saugor  was  com- 
pleted by  the  Maratbas  about  1780. 
It  stands  on  a. height  N.  W.  of  the  lake, 
commanding  the  whole  of  the  city  and 
surrounding  country,  and  consists  of  20 
round  towers,  varying  from  20  to  40  ft 
in  height,  connected  by  thick  curtain 
walls.  It  encloses  a  space  of  6  acres, 
for  the  most  part  covered  with  old 
Maratha  buildings  two  stories  high. 
The  British  Government  have  con- 
structed a  magazine,  a  large  building 
now  used  for  medical  stores,  and  a  bar- 
rack for  the  European  guard.  The 
only  entrance  is  on  the  E.  side.  The 
building  is  now  used  as  the  tahsil,  and 
as  the  office  of  the  executive  engineer. 
The  laige  castellated  jail,  capable  of 
containing  500  piisoners,  is  situated 
about  J  m.  E.  of  the  lake  ;  the  Deputy 
Commissioner's  Court  is  on  a  hill  over- 
looking the  city  and  lake  ;  the  Sessions 
Court-house,  a  little  to  the  N. ;  and  the 
city  kotwali,  or  station-house,  under 
the  western  walls  of  the  fort.  In  1862 
an  unhealthy  swamp  lying  N.  E.  of  the 
lake,  which  cut  off  the  quarter  called 
Gopalganj  from  the  rest  of  the  city, 
was  converted  into  a  large  garden  with 
numerous  drives  and  a  piece  of  orna- 
mental water.  The  civil  station  begins 
with  the  mint,  about  1  m.  E.  of  the 
lake,  and  extends  northwards  for  1  m. 
till  joined  by  the  military  cantonments, 
which  extend  in  a  north-easterly  direc- 
tion for  2 J  m.,  with  the  church  in  the 
centre.] 

182  m.  LaUtpnr  sta.,  D.B.  The  head- 
quarters of  a  district  of  the  same  name. 
Pop.  11,000.  Formerly  unimportant, 
this  place  is  now  bscomiug  more 
prosperous.  Buddhist  remains  built 
into  the  walls  of  modern  buildings 
indicate  that  some  large  shrine  once 
existed  in  the  neighbourhood. 

207  m.  Talbahat  sta.  A  picturesque 
town  with  a  large  piece  of  artificial 
water  covering  more  than  1  sq.  m. 
The  water  is  retained  by  damming  the 

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ROUTE  5.       ITARSI  JUNCTION  TO  CAWNPORE 


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streams  that  flow  through  a  rocky 
barrier  about  800  ft  high.  The  ridge 
is  covered  with  old  battlements  and 
defences.  The  fort  was  destroyed  by 
Sir  Hugh  Rose  in  1858. 

238  m.  Jhansi  June.  sta.30c  (R.),  D.6. 
centre  of  the  Indian  Mid.  Rly.  system. 
The  main  line  runs  N.E.  to  Cawn- 
pore,  a  branch  N.  to  Gwalior  and  Agra, 
and  another  £.  through  Banda  to 
the  £.  I.  Rly.  at  Manikpur.  Jhansi 
is  one  of  the  main  halting-places  for 
troops  proceeding  up  country.  It  is 
well  worthy  of  a  visit  on  account  of  its 
Fort,  which  the  British  Grovemment 
have  exchanged  with  Maharaja  Sindia 
for  Gwalior. 

The  Province  of  BundeUnrnd,  in 
which  Jhansi  is  situated,  has  for  ages 
been  one  of  the  most  turbulent  and 
difficult  to  manage  in  all  India.  In 
the  early  part  of  the  17th  century  the 
Orchha  state  was  governed  by  Bir 
Sing  Deo,  who  built  9ie  fort  of  Jnansi, 
8  m.  to  the  N.  of  his  capital,  which  is 
situated  on  an  island  m  the  Betwa 
river.  He  incurred  the  heavy  dis- 
pleasure of  Akbar  by  the  murder  of 
Abul  Fazl,  the  Emperor's  favourite 
minister  and  historian,  at  the  instiga- 
tion of  Prince  Salim,  afterwards  known 
as  the  Emperor  Jehangir.  A  force  was 
accordingly  sent  against  him  in  1602  ; 
the  country  was  ravaged  and  devastated, 
but  Bir  Sing  himself  contrived  to 
escape.  On  the  accession  of  his  patron, 
Salim,  in  1605,  he  was  naturally 
pardoned,  and  rose  into  great  favour ; 
but  when,  on  the  death  of  that  em- 
peror in  1627,  Shah  Jehan  mounted 
the  throne,  Bir  Sing  revolted.  His 
rebellion  was  unsuccessful,  and  although 
he  was  permitted  to  keep  possession  of 
his  dominions,  he  never  regained  all 
his  former  power  and  independence. 
During  the  troubled  times  which  suc- 
ceeded, Orchha  was  sometimes  in  the 
hands  of  the  Mohammedans  and  some- 
times fell  under  the  power  of  Bundela 
chieftains.  In  1732  Chatar  Sal  found 
it  expedient  to  call  in  the  aid  of  the 
Marathas,  who  were  then  invading  the 
Central  Provinces  under  their  first 
Peshwa,  Baji  Rao.  They  came  to  his 
assistance  with  their  accustomed  promp. 


titude,  and  were  rewarded  on  the  Baja's 
death,  in  1734,  by  a  beouest  of  ojie- 
third  of  his  dominions.  The  territory 
so  ffranted  included  pc^ons  of  the 
mooem  division  of  JhisMd,  but  not  the 
existing  district  itaelf.  In  1742,  how- 
ever, the  Marathas  found  a  pretext  for 
attacking  the  Orchha  State,  and  an- 
nexing that  amongst  other  territories. 
Their  general  founded  the  city  of  Jhansi, 
and  peopled  it  with  the  inhabitants  of 
Orchna. 

The  district  remained  under  the  rule 
of  the  Peshwas  until  1817,  when  they 
ceded  their  richts  to  the  E.  I.  Com- 
pany. Under  British  protection,  native 
Kajas  ruled  until  their  folly  and  in- 
competency ruined  the  country,  and 
when  the  dynasty  died  out  in  1858 
their  territories  lapsed  to  the  Britidi 
Government.  The  Jhansi  State,  with 
Jaloun  and  Chanderi  Districts,  were 
then  formed  into  a  Superintendency, 
while  a  pension  was  gpunted  to  the 
Rani  or  widow  of  tiie  late  Raja  Rao. 
The  Rani,  however,  considered  herself 
aggrieved,  both  because  she  was  not 
allowed  to  adopt  an  heir,  and  because 
the  slaughter  of  cattle  was  permitted 
in  the  Jhansi  territory.  Reports  were 
spread  which  excited  the  religious  pre- 
judices of  the  Hindus. 

The  events  of  1857  accordingly  found 
Jhansi  ripe  for  rebellion.  In  May  it 
was  known  that  the  troops  were  dis- 
affected, and  on  the  5th  oi  June  a  few 
men  of  the  12th  Native  In&ntry  seized 
the  fort  containing  the  treasure  and 
magazine.  Many  European  officers 
were  shot  the  same  day.  The  re- 
mainder, who  had  taken  refuge  in 
a  fort,  capitulated  a  few  days  after, 
and  were  massacred  with  their  families 
to  the  number  of  66  persons,  in  spite  of 
a  promise  of  protection  sworn  on  the 
Koran  and  Ganges  water.  The  Rani 
then  attempted  to  seize  the  supreme 
authority,  but  the  usual  anarchic 
quarrels  arose  between  the  rebels,  during 
which  the  Orchha  leaders  laid  siege 
to  Jhansi  and  plundered  the  country 
mercilessly.  On  the  4th  of  April  1858 
the  fort  and  town  were  captured  by  Sir 
Hugh  Rose,  who  marched  on  to  Kalpi 
without  being  able  to  leave  a  garrison 
at  Jhansi.    After  hi»  departure,  tbi 

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ROUTE  6.       KALPI 


91 


rebellion  broke  out  afresh,  only  the 
Gasarai  chieftain  in  the  N.  remaining 
fiiithfal  to  the  British  cause.  On  the 
nth  August  a  flying  column  under 
Colonel  Liddell  cleared  out  the  rebels 
from  Mhow,  and  after  a  series  of  sharp 
contests  with  various  guerilla  leaders, 
the  work  of  reorganisation  was  fairly 
set  on  foot  in  ifovember.  The  Rani 
herself  had  previously  fled  with  Tantia 
Topi,  and  finally  fell  in  a  battle  at  the 
foot  of  the  rock  fortress  of  Gwalior. 

The  siege  of  Jhansi  occupied  Sir 
Hugh  Rose's  army  from  21st  March 
till  4th  April  1858,  and  cost  us  348  in 
killed  and  wounded,  of  whom  36  were 
officers.     The  engineers  lost  4  officers 

escalade.  Madleson,  (quoting  Sir  Hugh 
Rose,  gives  the  followmg  description  of 
Jhansi  at  the  time  of  the  investment : 

"The  great  strength  of  the  Fort  of 
Jhansi,  natural  as  well  as  artificial, 
and  its  extent,  entitle  it  to  a  place 
among  fortresses.  It  stands  on  an 
elevated  rock,  rising  out  of  a  plain,  and 
commands  the  oily  and  surrounding 
country.  It  is  buut  of  excellent  and 
most  massive  masonry.  The  fort  is 
difi&eult  to  breach,  because  composed  of 
granite ;  ite  walls  vary  in  thickness 
from  16  te  20  ft  It  has  extensive  and 
elaborate  outworks  of  the  same  solid 
construction,  with  front  and  flanking 
embrasures  for  artillery-fire,  and  loop- 
holes, of  which  in  some  places  there  were 
five  tiers  for  musketry.  On  one  tower, 
called  the  *  white  turret,'  since  raised  in 
height,  waved  in  proud  defiance  the 
standard  of  the  high-spirited  Rani. 
The  fortress  is  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  the  city  of  Jhansi,  the  W.  and 
part  of  the  S.  face  excepted.  The 
steepness  of  the  rock  protects  the  W. ; 
the  fortified  city  wall  springs  from 
the  centre  of  ite  S.  face,  and  ends 
in  a  high  mound  or  nutmelon,  which 
protecte  by  a  flanking  fire  S.  face.  The 
mound  was  fortified  by  a  strong  circular 
liaation  for  five  guns,  round  part  of 
which  was  drawn  a  diteh,  12  ft.  deep 
and  15  ft  broad  of  solid  masonry. 

**  The  city  of  Jhansi  is  about  4\  m.  in. 
circumference,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
fortified  and  massive  wall,  from  6  to  12 
fL  thick,  and  varying  in  height  from 


18  to  80  ft.,  with  numerous  flanking 
bastions  armed  as  batteries,  with  ord- 
nance, and  loop-holes,  with  a  banquette 
for  infantry.  The  town  and  fortress 
were  garrisoned  by  11,000  men,  com- 
posed of  rebel  sepoys,  foreign  mercen- 
aries, and  local  levies,  and  they  were 
led  by  a  woman  who  believed  her  cause 
to  be  just." 

It  is  being  modernised  and  supplied 
with  strong  armament.  The  views 
from  the  top  and  from  the  road  round 
the  ramparts  are  very  extensive. 

The  old  civil  stetion  (Jhansi  Naoa- 
bad)  atteched  to  Jhansi  before  1861 
remains  the  headquarters  of  the  dis- 
trict, and  is  under  British  rule. 

[7  m.  from  Jhansi,  on  the  river  Betwa, 
is  the  interesting  native  fort  of  Orchha, 
well  worth  a  visit.] 

Between  Jhansi  and  Cawnpore  the 
country  abounds  in  black  buck.  Num- 
erous old  fortified  villages  are  seen 
from  the  rly.  train. 

308  m.  Oral  ( Urai)  ste.  (R.)  A  thriving 
place  of  8000  inhabitents.  The  head- 
quarters of  the  Jaloun  district.  Before 
1839  the  place  was  an  insignificant 
village.  There  are  some  handsome 
Mohammedan  tombs  and  the  usual 
public  offices. 

329  m.  Ealpi  ste.  on  the  Indian 
Midland  Railway.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  right  bank  of  the  Jumna 
amongst  deep  rugged  ravines.  The 
river  here  is  crossed  by  an  iron  girder 
bridge.  Tradition  says  that  the  town 
was  founded  by  Basdeo  or  Vasude  va,  who 
ruled  at  Kamba  from  330  to  400  a.d. 

Daring  the  Mogul  period  Kalpi 
played  so  large  a  part  in  the  annals  of 
this  part  of  India  that  it  would  be  im- 
possible to  deteil  ite  history  at  length. 
After  the  Marathas  interfered  in  the 
affairs  of  Bundelkund,  the  headquartere 
of  their  government  were  fixed  at  Kalpi. 
At  the  tmie  of  the  British  occupation 
of  Bundelkund  in  1803,  Nana  Gobind 
Rao  seized  upon  the  town.  The  British 
besieged  it  in  December  of  that  year, 
and,  after  a  few  hours'  resistence,  it 
surrendered.  Kalpi  was  then  included 
in  the  territory  granted  to  Raja  Himmat 
Bahadur,  on  whose  d^thi  in  1804,  it       I 


92 


ROUTE  6a.       AGRA  TO  MANIKPUR 


once  more  lapsed  to  Government.  It 
was  next  handed  over  to  Gobind  Bao, 
who  exchanged  it  two  years  later  for 
villages  farther  to  the  "W.  Since 
that  time  Kalpi  has  remained  a  British 
possession.  After  the  capture  of  Jhansi, 
and  the  rout  of  the  mutineers  atKoonch, 
they  fell  back  on  Kalpi,  which  through- 
out the  previous  operations  they  had 
made  their  principal  arsenaL  Here,  on 
22d  May  1858,  Sir  Hugh  Rose  (Lord 
Strathnaim)  again  defeated  a  large 
force  of  about  12,000  under  the  Rani  of 
Jhansi,  Rao  Sahib,  and  the  Nawab  of 
Banda,  who  then  fled  to  Gwalior. 

Ealpi  was  formerly  a  place  of  far 
greater  importance  than  at  the  present 
day.  T^e  East  India  Company  made 
it  one  of  their  principal  stations  for 
providing  their  commercial  invest- 
ments. The  western  outskirt  of  the 
town,  alonff  the  river  side,  contains  a 
large  number  of  ruins,  notably  the 
tomb  called  the  84  Domes,  and  12 
other  handsome  mausoleums.  At  one 
time  the  town  adjoined  these  ruins, 
but  it  has  gradually  shifted  south- 
eastward. Ganesganj  and  Temanganj, 
two  modem  quarters  in  that  direction, 
at  present  conduct  all  the  traffic.  The 
buildings  of  the  old  commercial  agency 
crown  some  higher  ground,  but  are  now, 
for  the  most  part,  empty.  A  ruined 
fort,  situated  on  the  steep  bank  of  the 
Jumna,  overhangs  the  ghat. 

874  m.  Cawnpore  junc.  sta.  (see 
p.  260). 


ROUTE  6a 

AoRA  TO  Gwalior,  Jhansi,  Banda, 
AND  Manikpub. 

Starting  from  the  Agra  Fcyrt  Statum 
(p.  168)  by  the  Indian  Midland  RaU- 
way,  the  traveller  reaches  at 


36m.  Dholpur  sta.  (R.),  the  chief  town 
of  the  native  state  of  thatname.  In  1658 
Aurangzib  defeated  and  killed  his  elder 
brother  Dara-Shikoh  at  Ran-ka- 
Chabutara,  3  m.  E.  of  Dholpur.  The 
imperial  princes,  competitors  for  the 
crown,  'Azim  and  Mu'azzim,  fought  a 

Ct  battle  in  1707  at  the  village  of 
jhta  near  Dholpur,  and  the  former 
was  killed,  on  which  Mu'azzim  became 
eniperor,  mth  the  title  of  Bahadur  Shah. 

The  sights  of  Dholpur  are  not  numer- 
ous. The  Palace  is  a  moderately  hand- 
some and  very  commodious  building. 
The  tank  of  Much  Kund,  about  2  m. 
from  Dholpur,  is  about  ^  m.  long,  and 
contains  several  islets,  on  which  are 
pavilions.  The  banks  are  lined  with 
temples,  but  none  of  them  are  ancient 
or  remarkable.  There  are  alligators  in 
the  tank,  but  though  crowds  of  pilgrims 
bathe  in  the  watei-s,  there  is  no  story 
of  any  of  them  being  caiTied  ofL 

The  river  Chambal  runs  through 
this  state,  and  is  bordered  everywhere 
by  a  labyrinth  of  ravines,  some  of  which 
are  90  ft.  deep,  and  extend  to  a  distance 
of  from  2  to  4  m.  from  the  river  banks, 
near  which  panthers  are  sometimes 
found.  The  floods  of  the  Chambal  are 
very  remarkable.  The  highest  recorded 
flood  above  summer  level  rose  no  less 
than  97  ft.  There  is  a  very  fine  Bridge 
over  the  stream  about  4  m.  from  Dhol- 
pur, built  of  the  famous  red  sandstone 
of  Dholpur,  a  ridge  of  which,  from  660 
to  1074  ft.  above  sea -level,  runs  for 
60  m.  through  the  territory,  and  sup- 
plies inexhaustible  quarries. 

77m.OWALIOE8ta.3^(R.),D.B.  The 

capital  of  Maharaia  Sindia,  and  &mous 
for  its  fort,  one  of  the  most  ancient  and 
renowned  strongholds  in  India. 

For  many  years  a  strong  brigade  of 
British  troops  was  maintained  at  Morar, 
a  few  m.  E.  of  the  fort.  The  latter 
was  garrisoned  by  British  troops  from 
1858  to  1886,  when  it  was  restored  to 
the  Maharajah's  custody,  and  Gwalior 
and  Morar  were  made  over  to  him  in 
exchange  for  Jhansi. 

History. 
General  Cunningham,  in  vol.  iL  of 
the  JSeports  of  the  ArchceologiocU  Sur- 

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ROtJTE  5a.       OWALIOR 


d3 


ny^  gives  a  most  valuable  account  of 
Gwauor.  He  says  that  of  the  three 
16th  and  17th  cent,  authorities  for  the 
early  history  of  Gwalior,  Eharg  Rai 
ttys  Gwalior  was  founded  8101  B.C. ; 
that  Fazl  'All  assigns  275  a.d.  as  the 
year  of  its  foundation ;  and  that  this 
date  is  also  adopted  by  Hiraman. 
Tieffenthaler,  Wilford,  and  Cunning- 
nam  agree  in  fixing  on  this  later  date. 
According  to  Cunningham,  Toramana 
was  a  tributary  prince  under  the  Gup- 
tas, against  whom  he  rebelled,  and 
became  sovereign  of  all  the  territory 
between  the  Jumna  and  Nerbudda, 
and  in  the  reign  of  his  son,  275 
A.D.,  the  Sun  Temple  was  built,  the 
Suraj  Ennd  excavated,  and  Gwalior 
founded,  by  Suraj  Sen,  a  Eachhwaha 
chief,  who  was  a  leper,  and  coming 
when  hunting  to  the  hill  of  Gopagiri, 
on  which  the  Fort  of  Gwalior  now 
stands,  got  a  drink  of  water  from 
the  hermit  Gwalipa,  which  cured  him 
of  his  leprosy.  In  gratitude  for  that 
he  built  a  fort  on  the  hill,  and  called 
it  "Gwaliawar,"  or  Gwalior.  Suraj 
Sen  got  a  new  name,  Suhan  Pal,  from 
the  hermit,  with  a  promise  that  his 
descendants  should  reign  as  long  as 
they  were  called  Pal ;  so  83  reigned, 
but  the  84th  was  called  Tej  Eara,  and 
having  discarded  the  name  of  Pal,  lost 
his  kingdom. 

This  Eachhwaha  dynasty  was  suc- 
ceeded by  seven  Parihara  princes,  who 
ruled  for  103  years  till  1232  A.D.,  when 
Owalior  was  taken  by  Altamsh,  in  the 
21st  year  of  the  reign  of  Sarang  Deo. 

General  Cunningham  found  an  in- 
teription  on  an  old  stone  sugar-mill  at 
Chitauli  between  Nurwar  and  Gwalior, 
ihich  is  dated  Samwat  1207  =  1150 
ID.,  in  the  reign  of  Ram  Deo,  which 
ipees  witii  and  strongly  corroborates 
the  dates  he  has  accepted. 

The  capture  of  Gwalior  by  Altamsh 
«as  commemorated  in  an  inscription 
placed  over  the  gite  of  the  Urwahi, 
ltd  the  Emperor  Babar  states  that  he 
aw  it,  and  the  date  was  630  a.h.  = 
1232  A.D.  Briggs,  in  a  note  to  Firish- 
tah,  says  it  is  sl^l  to  be  seen,  but 
General  Cunningham  sought  for  it  in 
tin.  From  1232  to  Timar's  invasion 
in  1398  the  Emperor  of  Delhi  used 


Gwalior  as  a  state  prison.  In  1375 
A.D.  the  Tumar  chief,  Bir  Sing 
Deo,  declared  himself  independent, 
and  founded  the  Tumar  dynasty  of 
Gwalior. 

In  1416  and  1421  the  Gwalior  chiefs 
paid  tribute  to  Ehizr  Ehan  of  Delhi, 
and  in  1424  Gwalior,  being  besieged 
by  Hushang  Shah  of  Malwa,  was  de- 
livered by  Mubarak  Shah  of  Delhi. 
In  1426,  1427,  1429,  and  1432,  the 
Eing  of  Delhi  marched  to  Gwalior,  an(l 
exacted  tribute.  Dimgar  Sing,  1425, 
commenced  the  great  rock  sculptures 
at  Gwalior,  and  his  son  Eirti  Sin^, 
1 454,  completed  them.  In  1 465  Husain 
Sharki,  king  of  Jaunpur,  besieged 
Gwalior,  and  obliged  it  to  pay  tribute. 
Man  Sing  acknowledged  the  supremacy 
of  Bahlol  Lodi  and  of  Sikandar  Lodi, 
but  the  latter  in  1505  marched  against 
Gwalior,  fell  into  an  ambuscade  and 
was  repulsed  with  great  loss.  In 
1506,  however,  he  captured  Himmat- 
garh,  but  passed  by  Gwalior,  which  he 
despaired  of  reducing.  In  1517  he 
maae  great  preparations  at  Agra  for 
the  conquest  of  Gwalior,  but  died  of 
quinsy.  Ibrahim  Lodi  had  sent  an 
army  of  30,000  horse,  800  elephants, 
and  other  troops,  against  Gwalior,  and 
a  few  days  after  they  reached  that  place 
Man  Sing  died.  He  was  the  ^eatest 
of  the  Tumar  princes  of  Gwalior,  and 
constructed  many  useful  works,  amongst 
others,  the  great  tank  to  the  N.W.  of 
Gwalior,  caUed  the  MoH  JML  Cun- 
ningham says  his  palace  affords  the 
noblest  specimen  of  Hindu  domestic 
architecture  in  N.  India.  He  was  a 
patron  of  the  Fine  Arts,  and  an  elephant 
sculptured  in  his  reign,  with  two  riders, 
was  admired  by  the  Emperor  Babar, 
Abu-1-Fazl,  and  the  traveller  Finch. 
After  Man  Sing's  death  his  son,  Vikra- 
maditya,  sustamed  the  siege  for  a  year, 
but  at  last  surrendered,  and  was  sent 
to  Agra. 

Balmr  sent  Bahimdad  with  an  army 
to  Gwalior,  which  he  took  by  a  strata- 
gem, suggested  by  the  holy  Muhammad 
Ghana.  In  1542  Abu-1-Easim,  Gover- 
nor of  Gwalior,  surrendered  his  fortress 
to  Sher  Shah.  In  1545  Salim,  son  of 
Sher,  brought  his  treasure  from  Chunar 
to  Gwalior,  and  in  1553  died  at  the 

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94 


BOUTB  5A.       AGRA  TO  MANIRPUR 


latter  place.  Rana  Sah,  son  of  Yikiam, 
tried  to  seize  Gwalior,  and  fought  a 
great  battle,  which  lasted  for  three  days, 
with  Akbar's  troops  there,  but  was  de- 
feated. He  then  went  to  Chitor.  In 
1761  Gwalior  was  taken  by  Bhim  Sing, 
the  Jat  Kana  of  Gohad,  and  in  1779 
captured  by  Major  Popham  from  the 
Marathas,  into  whose  hands  it  had 
fallen,  and  restored  to  the  Bana  of 
Gohad.  It  was  again  taken  by  the 
Marathas  under  Mahadaji  Sindia  in 
1784,  and  again  captured  by  the  English 
under  General  White  in  1803,  and  re- 
stored to  them  in  1805.  In  1844,  after 
the  battles  of  Maharajpur  and  Paniar, 
it  was  a  third  time  occupied  by  the 
British. 

At  the  time  of  the  Mutiny  the  great 
Maratha  prince,  Sindia,  had,  besides 
10,000  troops  of  his  own,  a  contingent 
consisting  of  2  regts.  of  Irregular 
Cavalry — 1168  men  of  all  ranks,  7 
regts.  of  Infantry  aggregating  6412  men, 
and  26  guns,  with  748  Artillenrmen. 
This  force  was  officered  by  Englishmen, 
and  the  men  were  thoroughly  drilled 
and  disciplined,  and  were,  in  fact,  ex- 
cellent soldiers,  as  they  proved  by  de- 
feating and  almost  driving  into  the 
river  General  Windham's  brigade  at 
Cawnpore. 

At  this  time  Sindia  was  in  his  23d 
year,  an  athletic  and  active  man,  and 
a  first-rate  horseman  and  fond  of 
soldiering.  It  is  admitted  that  he 
could  handle  troops  on  parade  as  well 
as  most  men,  and  he  possessed  an 
extraordinary  liking  for  the  military 
profession.  Had  he  decided  to  throw 
m  his  lot  with  the  rebels  he  might 
have  marched  to  Agra,  which  was  only 
65  m.  distant,  and  with  his  powerful 
army  must  have  made  himself  speedily 
master  of  that  city  ;  and  the  results 
might  have  been  temporarily  disastrous 
to  the  British.  But  Sindia's  able  minister, 
Dinkar  Rao,  knew  something  of  the 
powOT  of  the  English  Government ; 
knew  that  though  he  could  have  ob- 
tained a  temporary  success  he  would 
be  certainly  overpowered  in  the  end. 
He  therefore  peorsuaded  Sindia  to  deal 
subtilely  with  uis  dangerous  army,  and 
by  delays  and  evasions  kept  them  for  a 
time  from  issuing  from  uieir  canton- 


ments and  adding  their  formidable 
strength  to  the  rebel  army.  He  could 
not,  however,  prevent  them  killing  their 
English  officers. 

^ven  officers  and  several  ladies  and 
children  escaped  the  showers  of  bullets 
that  were  aimed  at  them,  and  reached 
the  Residency,  or  Sindia's  Palace. 
These  were  sent  on  by  the  Maratha 
Prince  to  the  Dholpur  territory,  where 
they  were  most  kindly  treated  and  sent 
to  Agra. 

For  some  months  Gwalior  was  quiet, 
thouffh  the  country  round  was  in 
rebeUion,  and  on  the  22d  May  1858  a 
very  important  battle  was  fought  in 
front  of  Kalpi  in  which  the  mutineers 
led  by  Tantia  Topee  and  the  Khanee 
of  Thausi  were  severely  defeated  by 
Sir  Hugh  Rose.  They  retreated  in  the 
direction  of  Gwalior. 

On  the  Ist  June  Sindia  with  all  his 
army  moved  out  from  Gwalior  to  meet 
them.  The  engagement  took  place  about 
2  m.  £.  of  Morar.  Malleson  thus  de- 
scribes it : — 

"He  had  with  him  6000  infantry, 
about  1500  cavalry,  his  own  bodyguard 
600  strong,  and  8  guns,  ranged  in  3 
divisions, — his  guns  centre.  About  7 
o'clock  in  the  morning  the  rebels  ad- 
vanced. As  they  approached,  Sindia's 
8  guns  opened  on  them.  But  the 
smoke  of  the  discharge  had  scarcely 
disappeared  when  the  rebel  skirmishers 
closed  to  their  flanks,  and  2000  horse- 
men charging  at  a  gallop,  carried  the 
guns.  Simultaneously  with  their 
charge,  Sindia's  infantry  and  cavalry, 
his  bodyguard  alone  excepted,  either 
joined  the  rebels  or  took  up  a  position 
indicative  of  their  intention  not  to 
fight  .  .  .  The  rebels  then  attacked 
the  bodyguard,  who  defended  them- 
selves bravely,  but  the  contest  was  too 
and  Sindia  turned  and  fled. 


accompanied  by  a  very  few  of  the  sur- 
vivors. He  did  not  draw  rein  tUl  he 
reached  Agra." 

The  Rhanee  thereupon  seized  the 
Fort  of  Gwalior  and  proclamed  the 
Nana  as  Peishwa.  On  hearing  of  this 
Sir  Hugh  Rose,  on  the  4m  June, 
marched  upon  Gwalior.  As  he  neared 
it  he  was  joined  by  Sir  Robert  Napier 
(Lord  Napier  of  Magdala),  who  took 


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ROUTB  6a.      GWALIOR 


95 


eommind  of  the  2od  Brigade,  and  by 
the  Hyderabad  troops.  On  the  16th  he 
cime  into  touch  with  the  rebels  at 
Bahadnrpore,  near  Morar.  In  spite 
of  the  long  and  fatiguingmarch  which 
his  force  had  endured,  Sir  Hugh  attacked 
the  enemy  at  once,  and  £*ove  them 
from  their  position. 

"The  main  body  of  the  enemy,  driven 
through  the  cantonments,  fell  back  on 
a  dry  nuUah  with  high  banks,  running 
round  a  Yillage  which  they  had  also 
occupied.  Here  they  maintained  a 
desperate  hand-to-hand  struggle  with 
the  British.  The  71st  Hi^landers 
suffered  severely,  Lieutenant  Neave, 
whilst  leading  them,  falling  mortally 
wounded ;  nor  was  it  till  the  nullah 
was  nearly  choked  with  dead  that  the 
Tillaee  was  carried.  The  victory  was 
competed  by  a  successful  pursuit  and 
slaughter  of  the  rebels  by  Captain 
Thompson,  14th  Light  Dragoons,  with 
a  wing  of  his  regiment 

"The  result,  then,  had  justified  Sir 
Hugh's  daring.  Not  only  had  he  dealt 
a  heavy  blow  to  the  rebels,  but  he 
gained  a  most  important  strategical 
point" 

(The  visitor  to  the  Fort  sees  this 
battle-field  below  him  to  the  E.  and  S.) 

Early  next  morning  (the  17  th  of 
June),  Brigadier  Smith  marched  from 
Astri  and  reached  £otah-ki-serai,  5  m. 
to  the  S.E.  of  Gwalior,  without  opposi- 
tioiL  There  he  discovered  the  enemy 
in  great  force,  and  showing  a  disposi- 
tion to  attack.  "Reconnoitring  the 
groond  in  front  of  him,  he  found  it 
TeiY  difficult,  intersected  with  nullahs 
m  impracticable  for  cavalry.  He  dis- 
oorered,  moreover,  that  the  enemy's 

Cwere  in  position  about  1500  yds. 
Kotah-ki-serai,  and  that  their 
hoe  lay  under  the  hills,  crossing  the 
Mid  to  Gwalior.  Notwithstanding 
tliis,  Smith  determined  to  attack, 
lint  he  sent  his  horse  artillery  to  the 
fiont,  and  silenced  the  enemy's  guns, 
which  limbered  up  and  retired.  This 
leeomplished,  Smith  sent  his  infantry 
aeross  the  broken  ground,  led  by  Raines 
of  the  95th.  Raines  led  his  men, 
covered  by  skirmishers,  to  a  point  about 
M  yds.  from  the  enemy's  works,  when 
tha  skirmishers  made  a  rush,  the  rebels 


falling  back  as  they  did  so.  Raines  then 
found  himself  stopped  by  a  deep  ditch 
with  4  ft  of  water,"  but  surmounting 
the  difficulty  he  gained  the  abandoned 
entrenchment  **  Whilst  he  was  con- 
tinuing his  advance  across  the  broken 
and  hilly  ground,  Smith  moved  his 
cavalry  across  the  river  Umrah,  close 
to  Kotah-ki-serai.  They  had  hardly 
crossed  when  tbe^  came  under  fire 
of  a  battery  which  till'  then  had 
escaped  notice.  At  the  same  time  a 
body  of  the  enemy  threatened  the 
haggage  at  Kotah-ki-serai.  Matters 
now  became  serious.  But  Smith  sent 
back  detachments  to  defend  the  bag^ge 
and  rear,  and  pushed  forward.  The 
road,  before  debouching  from  the  hills 
between  his  position  and  Gwalior,  ran 
for  several  hundred  yards  through 
a  defile  along  which  a  canal  had  been 
excavated.  It  was  while  his  troops 
were  marching  through  this  defile  that 
the  principal  fightme  took  place. 
Having  gained  the  farUier  end  of  the 
defile,  wnere  he  joined  Raines,  Smith 
halted  the  infantry  to  guard  it,  and 
ordered  a  cavalry  charge.  This  was 
most  gallantly  executed  by  a  squadron 
of  the  8th  Hussars,  led  by  Colonel 
Hicks  and  Captain  Heneage.  The 
rebels,  horse  and  foot,  gave  way  before 
them.  The  hussars  captured  two  guns, 
and  continuing  the  pursuit  through 
Sindia's  cantonment,  had  for  a 
moment  the  rebel  camp  in  their  pos- 


**  Amongst  the  fugitives  in  the  rebel 
ranks  was  the  resolute  woman  who, 
alike  in  counsel  and  on  the  field,  was 
the  soul  of  the  conspirators  Clad  in 
the  attire  of  a  man  and  mounted  on 
horseback,  the  Rani  of  Jhansi  might 
have  been  seen  animating  her  troops 
throughout  the  day.  When  inch  by 
inch  the  British  troops  pressed  through 
the  pass,  and  when  reacning  its  summit 
Smith  ordered  the  hussars  to  charge, 
the  Rani  of  Jhansi  boldly  fronted  the 
British  horsemen.  When  her  comrades 
failed  her,  her  horse,  in  spite  of  her 
efforts,  carried  her  along  with  the 
others.  With  them  she  might  have 
escaped,  but  that  her  horse,  crossing 
the  canal  near  the  cantonment 
stumbled   and  felL    A   hussar,   clos« 

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IIOUTBS  6a.      AGRA.  TO  MAKlKPtR 


India 


upon  her  track,  ignorant  of  her  sex 
and  her  rank,  cut  ner  down.  She  fell 
to  rise  no  more.  That  night,  her 
devoted  followers,  determined  that  the 
English  should  not  hoast  that  they 
had  captured  her  even  dead,  burned 
her  body/' 

Following  up  the  operations  above 
described  late  into  the  night  of  the 
19th  June^  Sir  Hugh  regained  the 
whole  place  —  Morar,  the  city,  the 
Lashkar  —  everything  but  the  Fort, 
which  was  held.by  a  few  fanatics,  who 
had  fii-ed  on  our  advancing  troops 
whenever  they  could  throughout  the 
day,  and  recommenced  the  following 
morning. 

"On  the  morning  of  the  20th, 
lieutenant  Rose,  25th  Bombay  Native 
Infantry,  was  in  command  with  a  de- 
tachment of  his  regiment  at  the  kot- 
wali,  or  police-station,  not  far  from  the 
main  gateway  of  the  rock  fort  As  the 
guns  from  its  ramparts  continued  to 
fire,  Rose  proposed  to  a  brother  officer. 
Lieutenant  Waller,  who  commanded  a 
small  party  of  the  same  regiment  near 
him,  that  they  should  attempt  to 
capture  the  fortress  with  their  joint 
parties,  urging  that  if  the  risk  was 
great,  the  honour  would  be  still  greater. 
Waller  cheerfully  assented,  and  the 
two  officers  set  off  with  their  men  and 
a  blacksmith,  whom,  not  unwilling, 
they  had  engaged  for  the  service. 
They  crept  up  to  the  first  ^teway 
unseen.  Then  the  blacksmith,  a 
powerful  man,  forced  it  open ;  and  so 
with  the  other  five  gates  that  opposed 
their  progress.  By  the  time  the  sixth 
gate  had  been  forced  the  alarm  was 
given,  and  when  the  assailants  reached 
the  archwav  beyond  the  last  gate,  they 
were  met  by  the  fire  of  a  gun  which 
had  been  brought  to  bear  on  them. 
Dashing  onwards,  unscathed  by  the 
fire,  they  were  speedily  engaged  in  a 
hand-to-hand  contest  with  the  garrison. 
The  fight  was  desperate,  and  many 
men  fell  on  both  sides.  The  gallantry 
of  Rose  and  Waller  and  their  men 
carried  all  before  them.  Rose  especially 
distinguished  himself.  Just  in  the 
hour^  of  victory,  however,  as  he  was 
inciting  his  men  to  make  the  final 
charge,    which    proved    successful,    a 


musket  was  fired  at  him  from  behind 
the  wall.  The  man  who  had  fired  the 
shot,  a  mutineer  from  Baraili,  then 
rushed  out  and  cut  him  down.  Waller 
came  up,  and  despatched  the  rebel; 
too  late,  however,  to  save  his  friend. 
But  the  rock  fortress  was  gained,"  and 
continued  in  British  hands  till  1886. 

The  New  City  or  Laahkar.— When 
Daulat  Rao  Sindia  obtained  possession 
of  Gwalior  in  1794-1805,  he  pitched 
his  camp  on  the  open  plain  to  the  S. 
of  the  fort.  As  the  camp  remained, 
the  tents  soon  disappeared,  and  a  new 
city  rapidly  sprung  up,  which  still 
retoins  the  name  of  Lashkar,  or  the 
camp,  to  distinguish  it  from  the  old 
city  of  Gwalior.  The  Sara/a,  or  mer- 
chants' (marter,  is  one  of  the  finest 
streets  in  India.  In  the  Ph/ul  Bagh  is  the 
Modem  Palace  of  Maharaja  Sindia 
(not  shown  to  visitors).  In  the  centre 
of  Lashkar  is  the  Barah,  or  Old  Palace, 
and  near  it  are  the  houses  of  the  chief 
Sardars,  or  nobles,  of  the  state. 

The  new  buildings  worthy  of  a  visit 
are  the  Dufferin  Saraij  the  Victoria 
College,  and  the  Tayagi  Bao  Menumal 
Hospital,  The  modem  Temple  was 
erected  by  Sindia's  mother,  and  is 
mentioned  by  Fergusson. 

Since  the  occupation  of  the  Lashkar, 
the  Old  City  has  been  gradually  decay- 
ing, and  is  now  only  one-third  as  large 
as  the  New  City.  But  the  two  together 
still  form  one  of  the  populous  places  in 
India. 

The  Old  City  of  Gwalior  is  a  crowded 
mass  of  small  fiat-roofed  stone  houses. 
Flanking  the  city  to  the  N.  stands  a 
curious  old  Pathan  archway,  the  re- 
mains of  a  tomb.  Outside  the  |;ates  is 
the  Jumma  Musjid,  with  its  gilt  pin- 
nacled domes  and  lofty  minarets.  Sir 
W.  Sleeman  says  [Rambles,  L  847) : 
"It  is  a  very  beautiful  mosque,  with 
one  end  built  by  Muhammad  Khan,  in 
1665  A.D.,  of  the  white  sandstone  of 
the  rock  above  it.  It  looks  as  fresh  as 
if  it  had  not  been  finished  a  month." 
It  has  the  usual  two  rainars,  and  over 
the  arches  and  alcoves  arc  carved  pas- 
sages from  the  Koran  in  beautiful  Kufik 
characters. 

Beyond  the  stream,  and  just  on  the 
outslcirts  of  the  city,  is  the  noble  tomb 

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BOUTE  5a.       GWALIOR  FORT 


97 


of  the  Muhammad  Oham,  a  saint 
venerated  in  the  time  of  Bahar  and 
ilbar.  It  is  of  stone,  and  is  one  of 
the  best  specimens  of  Mohammedan 
architecture  of  tlie  early  Mogul  period. 
It  was  built  in  the  early  part  of 
Akbar's  reign,  and  is  a  square  of  100 
ft,  with  hexagonal  towers  at  the  four 
comeis,  attached  at  the  angles  instead  of 
the  sides.  The  tomb  is  a  hall  48  t. 
sq.,  ^th  the  angles  cut  oflf  by  pointed 
arches,  from  which  springs  a  lofty 
Patban  dome.  The  walls  are  5^  ft. 
thick,  and  are  surrounded  by  a  lofty 
Terandah,  with  square  bays  in  centre 
of  each  side,  enclosed  by  stone  lattices 
of  the  most  intricate  and  elaborate 
patterns.  These  are  protected  from 
the  weather  by  very  bold  eaves,  sup- 
ported on  long  stone  slabs  resting  on 
brackets.  The  building  is  of  yellowish 
gray  sandstone.  The  dome  was  once 
covered  with  blue  glazed  tiles.  The 
whole  is  choked  with  whitewash. 

Tomb  of  T^msen,  the  famous  musi- 
cian, is  a  small  open  building  22  ft. 
3q.,  supported  on  pillars  round  the 
tombstone.  It  is  close  to  the  S.W. 
comer  of  the  large  tomb ;  hence  it  is 
thought  he  became  a  Moslem.  The 
tamarind  tree  near  the  tomb  is  much 
rioted,  by  musicians,  as  the  chewing  of 
the  leaves  is  alleged  to  impart  a  won- 
derful sweetness  to  the  voice.  Lloyd, 
in  1820,  in  his  Jiywmey  to  KunawaVy  i. 
TK  9,  says  that  this  is  still  religiously 
believed  by  all  dancing  girls.  They 
stripped  the  original  tree  of  its  leaves 
till  it  died,  and  the  present  tree  is  a 
seedling  of  the  original  one. 

To  see  Gwalior  Fort  an  order  is 
necessary :  it  can  be  obtained  at  the 
Besideney  Office,  or  from  the  keeper  of 
^  Musafir  Ehana  (the  Maharaja's 
liiiigalow  for  strangers).  The  rest- 
houe  keeper  will  make  arrangements 
far  the  elephant  which  the  Maharaja 
kindly  puts  at  the  disposal  of  visitors, 
to  meet  them  at  the  foot  of  the  steep 
aseent  to  the  Fort. 

"The  great  fortress  of  Gwalior," 
saya  Grenenil  Cunningham,  '*  is  situated 
on  a  inrecipitous,  flat-topped,  and  iso- 
latad  hill  of  sandstone,"  which  rises  300 
ft.  above  the  town  at  the  N.  end,  but 
[India] 


only  274  ft.  at  the  upper  gate  of  the 
principal  entrance.  The  hill  is  long  and 
narrow ;  its  extreme  length  from  N.  to 
S.  is  If  m.,  while  its  breadth  varies  from 
600  ft.  to  2800  ft  The  walls  are  from 
30  to  35  ft.  high,  and  the  rock  imme- 
diately below  iiiem  is  steeply  but 
irrj^ularly  scarped  all  round  the  hill. 

Tae  objects  of  chief  interest  are  all  in 
the  Fort,  with  the  exception  of  the  tomb 
of  Muhammad  Ghaus,  which  is  passed 
on  the  way  there.  Notice  especiallv  the 
gateways,  the  Man,  Earan,  and  Vikram 
palaces,  the  Sas  Bahu  temples,  the  Jain 
and  the*  Teli-Ea-Mandir  temples,  and 
the  gigantic  rock-cut  figures. 

The  view  from  the  Fort  is  varied  and 
extensive,  but,  except  during  the  rainy 
season,  when  the  hills  are  green,  the 
general  appearance  of  the  country  is 
brown  and  arid.  To  the  N.,  on  a 
clear  day,  mav  be  seen  the  gigantic 
temple  of  Sahamiya,  about  30  m. 
distant,  and  still  farther  in  the  same 
direction  the  red  hills  of  Dholpur. 
To  the  W.  and  within  gunshot  lies  the 
long  flat -topped  sandstone  hill  of 
Hanuman,  witn  a  basaltic  peak  at  the 
N.  end,  and  a  white-washed  temple  on 
its  slope,  whence  the  hill  has  its 
name.  Bej^ond,  far  as  the  eye  can 
reach,  nothmg  ia  seen  but  range  after 
ran^e  of  low  sandstone  hills.  The 
conical  peak  of  the  Raipur  hill  towers 
over  the  lower  ranges  in  the  S.,  and  to 
the  E.  the  level  plains,  dotted  with 
villages,  lengthen  till  they  pass  out  of 
sight.  On  the  plain  below  lies  the  Old 
City  of  Gwalior,  encircling  the  N.  end 
of  the  fortress,  and  to  the  S.,  upwards 
of  1  m.  distant,  is  the  New  City  of 
Lashkart  literally  "camp." 

The  Tnam  enJtrance  to  the  Fort  is  on 
the  N.E.  The  ascent  was  formerly  by 
many  flights  of  broad  steps  alternating 
with  pieces  of  paved  level  road,  but 
these  nave  been  removed,  and  there  is 
now  a  continuous  road.  The  entrance 
on  the  N.E.  is  protected  by  6  Gates 
which,  beginning  from  the  N.,  are — 

The  *  Alamgirig&ie  built  by  Mu'tamad 
Ehan,  Governor  of  Gwalior,  in  1660, 
and  called  after  Aurangzib,  one  of  whose 
titles  was  'Alamgir.  it  is  quite  plain, 
and  the  inscription  is  obliterated. 
Inside  is  a  small  courtyard,  and  an 

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ROUTE  6A.       AGRA  TO  MANIKPUR 


Indda 


open,  hall  in  which  the  Mohammedan 
governors  sat  to  dispense  justice,  whence 
it  is  called  the  Cvicherry, 

The  BadcUgarh  or  Hmdola  gate  has 
its  name  from  the  outwork  Badalgarh, 
which  was  called  ^m  Badtd  Sing,  the 
uncle  of  Man  Sing.  This  gate  is  also 
called Hindola,  from  hindol^  * 'aswinje, " 
which  existed  outside.  It  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  Hindu  architecture.  An 
inscription  on  an  iron  plate  records 
its  restoration  by  the  Governor  Saiyad 
'Alam  in  1648. 

Close  under  the  rock  to  the  rt.  is 
the  stately  Oujari  Palace,  built  for  the 
queen  of  Man  Sing.  It  measures  800 
ft.  by  230  ft.,  and  is  two  stories  high. 
It  is  built  of  hewn  stone,  but  is  much 
ruined. 

The  Bhairon  or  Bansur  gate  has  its 
name  from  one  of  the  earliest  Kach- 
hwaha  Rajahs.  It  is  called  Bansur,  from 
bansor,  "an  archer,"  lit.  "a  bamboo- 
splitter,"  a  man  who  had  the  charge 
of  it  On  one  of  the  jambs  is  an  in- 
scription dated  1485  a.d.,  a  year  before 
the  accession  of  Man  Sing. 

The  Ganesh  Gate  was  built  by  Dun- 
^reli,  who  reigned  1424  to  1454.  Out- 
side is  a  small  outwork  called  KalnUar 
KhanOf  or  "  pigeon  house,"  in  which 
is  a  tank  called  Nur  Saugar,  60  ft.  x 
39  ft.  and  25  fL  deep.  Here,  too,  is  a 
Hindu  temple  sacred  to  the  hermit 
Gioalipa,  from  whom  the  fort  had  its 
name.  It  isa  small  square  open  pavilion, 
with  a  cupola  on  4  pillars.  There  is 
also  a  small  mosque  with  an  inscription 
which  Cunningham  thus  translates  : — 

In  the  reign  of  the  great  Prince  'A'lamglr, 

Like  the  foU-shioing  moon. 

The  enlightener  of  the  world, 

Traise  be  to  God  that  this  happy  place 

Was  by  M'utaraad  Khan  completed 

As  a  charitable  gift. 


It  was  the  idol-temple  of  the  vile  Owali. 
He  made  it  a  mosque 


Like  a  mansion  of  Paradise. 

The  Khan  of  enlightened  heart, 

Nay,  light  itself  from  head  to  foot. 

Displayed  the  divine  light  like  that  of  mid-day. 

He  closed  the  idol  temple. 

Then  follows  the  chronogram  giving 
a  date  corresponding  to  1664  A.D. 

Before  reaching  the  Zakshman  Oate 
^^  t  ^^Pl®  hewn  out  of  the  solid 
rock  and  called   ChcUur-bhuj-7mndir, 

shnne  of  the  four-armed,"  sacred  to 


Vishnu,  inside  which,  on  the  left,  is  a 
long  inscription,  dated  Samwat  9S3  = 
876  A.D.  it  is  12  ft.  sq.,  with  a  portico 
in  front  10  ft.  by  9  ft  supported  by  four 
pillars.  There  is  a  tank  here,  and 
opposite  to  it  the  tomb  of  Tiy  Nizam, 
a  noble  of  the  Court  of  Ibrahim  Lodi, 
who  was  killed  in  assaulting  this  gate 
in  1 5 1 8  A.  D.  Between  the  gates  on  the 
face  of  the  rock  are  carvings  of  Mahadeo 
and  his  consort,  and  about  50  Lingams. 
There  was  a  colossal  group  of  the  Boar 
incarnation,  15}  ft  high,  which  Cun 
ningham  thinks  to  be  one  of  the  oldest 
sculptures  in  Gwalior ;  it  is  quite 
defaced.  A  fi^re  of  an  elephant  over 
the  statue  has  oeen  cut  away  to  form  a 
canopy. 

The  Hathiya  Paur,  or  Elephant  Gate, 
was  built  by  Man  Sing,  and  forms  part 
of  his  palace.  Here  was  the  carving  of 
an  elephant,  which  Babar  and  Abu-1- 
Fazl  praised. 

There  are  threegates  ontheN.W.  side 
of  the  Fort,  which  have  the  general 
name  of  Dhonda  Paur^  from  an  earlv 
Kachhwaha  Rajah.  In  an  upper  outwork 
the  state  prisoners  used  to  be  confined. 

The  S.  W.  entrance  is  called  Ghaar- 
gharj  Paur,  or  Gurgling  Gate,  either 
from  a  well  of  that  name  inside,  or 
from  a  redoubt.  It  has  five  gates  in 
succession,  threeof  which  were  breached 
bv  General  White.  This  entrance  is 
also  called  Popham  by  the  natives,  in 
memory  of  its  capture  in  1780  by 
Captain  Bruce,  brother  of  the  tra- 
veller, who  was  an  officer  of  Popham's 
force.  The  escalading  party  had  grass- 
shoes  furnished  them  to  prevent  them 
slipping,  and  the  cost  of  these  shoes 
is  said  to  have  been  deducted  from 
Popham's  pay. 

Gwalior  has  always  been  thought 
one  of  the  most  impregnable  fortresses 
in  Upper  India,   and  is  superior  to 
most  in  an  unfiling  supply  of  water 
in  tanks,  cisterns,  and  wells.     There 
are  several  wells  in  the  Urwahi  out- 
work, and  the  water  in  them  is  always  i 
sweet  and  wholesome,  and  is  now  the  I 
only  good  drinking  water  in  the  fort  [ 
The  Suraj   Kund,  or  Sun  pool,  wasj 
built  about  275  to  300  A.D.,  and  is  the  I 
oldest  in  the  fort    It  is  350  ft.  by  180l 
ft.,  ^vith  a  variable  depth.     It  is  situ- 1 


d  by  Google 


d  by  Google 


d  by  Google 


ROUTE  5a.      GWALIOR  FORT 


99 


ated  about  500  ft.  N.W.  of  the  Sas- 
btbu  Temple.  The  Trikonia  Tank  is 
at  the  extreme  N.  point  of  the  Fort, 
near  the  Jayanti-thora,  where  are  two 
inscriptions,  dated  1408  a.d.,  and  a 
little  earlier.  The  Johara  tank  is  in 
the  N.  of  the  Fort,  in  front  of  Shah 
Jehan's  palace,  and  has  its  name  from 
the  Johar,  or  sacrifice  of  the  Rajput 
women  there  when  Altamsh  took  the 
place.  The  Sas-bahu  tank,  "mother- 
in-law  and  daughter-in-law,"  is  near 
the  Padmanath  temple,  and  is  250  ft. 
by  150  ft.,  and  15  ft.  to  18  fL  deep, 
but  usually  dry,  as  the  water  runs 
through.  The  Gangola  Tank  is  in  the 
middle  of  the  Fort,  is  200  ft.  sq.,  and 
always  has  deep  water  on  the  S.  side. 
The  Dhobi  tank,  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
Fort,  is  the  largest  of  all,  being  400  ft. 
by  200  ft,  but  it  is  very  shallow. 

There  are  six  Palaces,  or  mandirs, 
in  the  Fort.  (1)  The  Oujari,  already 
mentioned. 

(2)  The  Man  Sing  Palace  (1486- 
1516,  repaired  in  1881),  rt.  on  entering 
the  Fort,  is  on  the  edge  of  the  E.  cliff. 
It  was  also  called  the  ChU  Mandir, 
or  painted  palace,  as  "  the  walls  are 
coTered  with  a  profusion  of  coloured 
tiles — bands  of  mosaique  candelabra, 
Brahmin  ducks,  elephants,  and  pea- 
cocks—enamelled blue,  green  and  gold, 
giving  to  this  massive  wall  an  unsur- 
passed charm  and  elegance.  The  tiles 
of  this  great  windowless  wall  possess 
a  brightness  and  delicacy  of  tint  un- 
blemished by  the  10  centuries  which 
they  have  weathered.  Nowhere  do  I 
remember  any  architectural  design 
capable  of  imparting  similar  lightness 
to  a  simple  massive  wall.  The  secret 
of  these  enamelled  tiles  has  not  yet 
been  discovered  "  (Rouselet).  It  is  two 
stories  high,  with  two  stories  of  under- 

Cd  apartments,  now  uninhabitable 
the  bats.  The  £.  face  is  300  ft. 
long  and  100  ft.  high,  and  has  five 
niiasive  round  towers,  surmounted  by 
open-domed  cupolas,  and  connected  at 
ton  by  a  battlement  of  singularly  beauti- 
fol  open  lattice-work.  The  S.  face  is 
160  ft  long  and  60  ft.  high,  with  three 
round  towers  connected  by  a  battlement 
of  lattice-work.  The  N.  and  W.  sides 
aie  much  ruined.      The    rooms   are 


arranged  roimd  two  courts, — small  but 
with  singularly  beautiful  decoration. 

(3)  The  Palace  of  Vikram  is  between 
the  Man  and  Karan  palaces,  and  con- 
nected with  them  by  narrow  galleries. 

(4)  The  Karan  Palace  should  be 
called  the  Kirti  Mandir.  It  is  long 
and  narrow,  and  of  two  stories.  It  has 
one  room  43  ft.  by  28  ft.,  with  a  roof 
supported  by  two  rows  of  pillars.  There 
are  smaller  rooms  on  either  side,  and 
bath-rooms  below,  with  some  fine 
plaster-work  on  the  domed  ceilings. 
Close  by  to  the  S.  is  a  hall  (1516  a.d.) 
36  ft.  sq.,  and  the  roof  is  a  singular 
Hindu  dome  supported  on  eight  curved 
ribs,  of  which  four  spring  from  the  side 
pillars  and  four  from  the  angles  of  the 
building.  Internally  the  top  of  the 
dome  is  a  flat  square  formed  by  the 
intersection  of  the  ribs.  The  roof  is 
flat,  and  once  had  a  pavilion  on  it. 

(5)  T?ie  Jehaiigiri  and  (6)  Shah 
Jehan  Pala^xs,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Fort, 
are  of  rubble  plastered,  and  are  quite 
plain  and  of  no  architectural  interest. 

There  are  11  Hindu  temples  which 
have  been  desecrated  by  the  &1  ohamme- 
dans,  but  are  still  visited  by  Hindus  at 
stated  times.  These  are  (i.)  the  GwaZipa, 
and  (ii.)  the  Chatur-hhuj^  both  already 
mentioned,  (iii)  The  Jayanti-thora 
was  destroyed  by  Altamsh  in  1232 
A.D.,  but  its  position  is  shown  by  the 
name  given  to  the  most  N.  point  of  the 
Fort,  where  there  is  a  deep  rock -cut 
well  and  some  pillared  arcades  with 
inscriptions  dated  1400  to  1419  a.d. 
(iv.)  The  Teli-Ea-Handir  (probable 
date,  11th  cent.,  restored  1881-83) 
is  in  the  centre  of  the  Fort,  overlooking 
the  UrwahL  It  is  supposed  to  have 
been  built  by  a  Tel%  or  oilman.  It  is 
60  ft.  sq.,  with  a  portico  projecting  11 
ft  on  the  E.  side.  The  sides  slope 
upwards  to  80  ft.,  where  the  building 
ends  in  a  horizontal  ridge  30  ft.  long. 
It  is  the  loftiest  building  in  Gwalior. 
The  doorway  is  35  ft.  high,  and  has  a 
figure  of  Garuda  over  the  centre.  It 
was  originally  a  Vishnavite  Temple, 
but  since  the  15th  cent,  it  has  been 
Shivite.  The  whole  of  this  very  mas- 
sive building  is  covered  with  sculptures. 
The  gateway  in  front  of  it  was  formed 
out  of  fragments  found  in  the  Fort  by 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


100 


ROUTE  6a.       AGRA  TO  MANIKPUR 


India 


Major  Keith.  The  sculptured  frag- 
ments set  up  round  the  temple  were 
also  collected  by  him. 

(v.  vi.)  The  Sas-bahu  or  Sdhasra 
bahUf  "mother-in-law"  and  "daughter- 
in-law,"  or  1000-armed  temples,  are  two 
temples,  a  large  and  smaller  one  near 
the  middle  of  the  E.  wall  of  the  Fort. 
There  is  a  long  inscription  inside  the 
portico,  with  the  date  1093  a.d. 
There  are  figures  of  Vishnu  over  the 
main  entrances.  The  great  temple,  said 
to  have  been  built  by  Rajah  Mahipal, 
is  100  ft.  long  by  63  ft.  broad.  The 
entrance  is  to  the  N.,  and  the  adytum 
to  the  S.  The  temple  is  now  70  ft. 
high,  but  the  top  has  been  broken, 
and  General  Cunningham  thinks  it  was 
once  100  ft.  high.  It  stands  on  a  richly- 
carved  plinth.  The  central  hall  is  31 
ft.  sq.  It  is  crowded  with  four  massive 
pillars  to  aid  in  bearing  the  enormous 
weight  of  its  great  pyramidal  roof. 
The  construction  of  the  roof  is  worthy 
of  study.  The  temple  was  dedicated 
in  1092  A.D.  The  small  Sas-bahu  is 
built  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  but  consists 
of  a  single  story,  and  is  open  on  all  four 
sides.  The  body  is  23  ft.  sg[.,  supported 
on  twelve  pillars.  The  phnth  is  6  ft. 
high,  and  is  decorated  like  that  of  the 
great  temple.  The  pillars  are  round, 
with  octagonal  bases  and  bracketed 
capitals.  The  lower  part  of  the  shafts 
in  both  temples  are  ornamented  with 
gi'oups  of  female  dancers.  It  is  a  fine 
specimen  of  the  ornate  style  of  medi- 
aeval Hindu  architecture. 

(vii.)  The  Jain  Temple  was  dis- 
covered by  Glen.  Cunningham  in  1844, 
and  is  a  small  building  placed  against 
the  E.  wall  of  the  Fort,  midway 
between  the  Elephant  Gate  and  Sas- 
bahu  temples.  It  was  built  about  1108 
A.D.  The  four  other  temples,  Surya 
Deva,  Mala  Deva,  Dhonda  Deva,  and 
Maha  Deva,  are  of  less  importance. 

*  *  The  Bock  Sculptures  of  Gwalior," 
the  same  authority  writes,  "are  unique 
in  Northern  India,  as  well  for  their 
number  as  for  their  gigantic  size. 
They  are  all  excavated  in  the  steep 
cliff,  immediately  below  the  walls  of 
the  fortress,  and  are  most  of  them  easily 
accessible.  There  are  small  caves  and 
niches  in  almost  every  place  where  the 


face  of  the  rock  is  tolerably  smooth 
and  steep,  but  the  more  prominent 
excavations  may  be  divided  into  five 
principal  group,  which  I  will  designate 
according  to  their  positions,  as  1st,  the 
Urwahi  group;  2d,  the  south-western 
group  ;  3d,  the  noi*th-westem  group  ; 
4th,  the  north-eastern  group ;  5th,  tne 
south-eastern  group.  Of  these  the 
first  and  the  last,  which  are  by  far  the 
most  considerable,  both  in  number  and 
size,  are  the  only  sculptures  that  have 
attracted  travellers.  Most  of  them 
were  mutilated,  by  order  of  the  Emperor 
Babar  1527  a.d.,  only  60  years  after 
they  were  made.  Babar  himself  records 
the  fact  in  his  Memoirs :  '  They  have 
hewn  the  solid  rock  of  this  Adwa,  and 
sculptured  out  of  it  idols  of  larger  and 
smaller  size.  On  the  south  part  of  it 
is  a  large  idol,  which  may  be  about  40 
ft.  in  height.  These  figures  are  perfectly 
naked,  without  even  a  rag  to  cover  the 

Earts  of  generation.  AdvxL  is  far  from 
eing  a  mean  place ;  on  the  contrary  it 
is  extremely  pleasant.  The  greatest 
fault  consists  in  the  idol  figures  all 
about  it.  I  directed  theae  idols  to  he  de- 
stroyed, *  The  statues,  however,  were  not 
destroyed,  but  only  mutilated,  and  the 
broken  heads  have  since  been  repaired 
by  the  Jains  with  coloured  stucco. 

* '  The  Urvjahi  group  is  situated  in  the 
cliff  of  the  S.  side  of  the  Urwahi  valley, 
and  consists  of  22  principal  figures,  all 
of  which  are  naked.  The  figures  ai-e 
accompanied  by  six  inscriptions,  dated 
Samwatl497, 1510  =  1440  a.d.  and  1453, 
during  the  sway  of  the  Tumara  Rajahs. 
The  chief  statues  are,  No.  17,  a  colossal 
figure  of  Adinath,  the  first  Jain  pontiff, 
who  is  known  by  the  symbol  of  a  bull 
on  the  pedestal.  This  has  a  long  in- 
scription dated  1440  a.d.  in  the  reign 
of  Dungar  Sing,  which  has  been  trans- 
lated by  Rajendralala  Mitra  (see  Beng. 
As.  Soc,  Jour,  1862,  p.  423).  The 
largest  figure  of  this  group,  and  of  all 
the  Gwalior  sculptures,  is  the  colossus 
No.  20,  which  Babar  says  is  40  ft 
high.  Its  actual  height,  however,  is 
57  ft,  or  6i  times  the  length  of  the 
foot,  which  is  just  9  ft.  In  front  of  the 
statue  is  a  small  figure  with  a  squat- 
ting figure  on  each  of  its  four  faces. 
The  extreme  W.  figure  of  this  group, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ttOUTB  6a.      rock  SCUliPTtTRUS 


101 


Ko.  22,  is  a  seated  colossus  upwards 
of  30  ft.  high,  of  Nemnath,  22d  Jain 
pontifi^  known  by  a  shell  on  the  pedes- 
tal Besides  the  22  figures  there  are  a 
few  isolated  excavations  to  the  right 
and  left,  now  inaccessible  from  the 
falling  of  the  rock-cut  steps. 

"  Tie  soiUh-toestem  group  consists  of 
fire  ^ncipal  figures,  situated  in  the 
cliflf  mimediately  below  the  one-pillar 
tank,  and  just  outside  the  Urwahi  wall. 
No.  2  is  a  sleeping  female  8  ft  long, 
lying  on  her  side,  with  her  head  to  the 
i  and  face  to  the  W.  Both  thighs  are 
straight,  but  the  left  leg  is  bent  back 
underneath  the  right  leg.  The  figure 
is  highly  polished.  No.  3  is  a  seated 
group  of  a  male  and  female  with  a 
child,  who  are  Siddhartha  and  Trisala, 
the  reputed  father  and  mother  of  the 
iuEuit  Mahavira,  the  last  of  the  24  Jain 
pontiffs.  The  deeping  female  also  is 
probably  intended  for  Trisala,  to  whose 
womb,  when  she  was  asleep,  the  foetus 
of  Mahavira  is  said  to  have  been  trans- 
ferred from  its  true  Brahman  mother. 

"  The  north-western  group  is  in  the 


W.  cliff  of  the  Fort,  immediately  N.  of 
the  Dhonda  gate.  The  figures  are  un- 
important, but  one  of  them,  Adinath, 
has  an  inscription  dated  Samwat  1527 
=  1470  A.D. 

"The  north-eastern  group  is  in  the 
cliff  under  the  Mohammedan  palaces, 
and  above  the  middle  gateways  of  the 
£.  entrance.  The  sculptures  are  small, 
and  unaccompanied  by  mscriptions,  and 
are,  therefore,  unimportant.  One  or 
two  of  the  caves  are  large,  but  now  very 
difficult  of  access. 

**The  south-eastern  group  is  in  the 
long,  straight  cliff  of  the  E.  face,  just 
under  the  Gangola  tank.  This  is  by  far 
the  largest  and  most  important  group, 
as  there  are  18  colossal  statues  from  20 
to  30  ft  high,  and  as  many  more  from  8 
ft  to  1.5  ft,  which  occupy  the  whole  face 
of  the  cliff  for  upwards  of  J  m.  A  few 
caves  are  blocked  up,  and  occupied  by 
surly  mendicant  Byragis,  who  refuse  all 
admittance,  but  there  isnoreason  to  sup- 
pose they  differ  from  the  other  caves. 

The  details  are  here  as  tabulated  by 
General  Cunningham. 


Caves. 

Sculptures. 

Dates. 

'"■p^^t 

Names. 

Position. 

Height. 

Symbol. 

Samwat. 

A.D. 

Feet. 

Feet. 

1 

23X21X27 



30 

— 

— 

— 

2 

10X10X10 









8 

15X12X17 

Adinath 

Standing 

7 

Bull 

1530 

1473 

4  others 





1530 

1478 

4 

15X14X16 

Adinath 

14 

Wheel 

1525 

1468 

Nerainath 





Shell 

1525 

1468 

5 

Adinath 

— 

Boll 

1525 

1468 

e 

26X12X16 

Supadma 

Sitting 

15 

Lotus 



7 

15X10X20 



Standing 

20 

— 

— 

— . 

8 

21X10X20 

Adinath 

Sitting 

6 







9 

16x  7X28 

Male  figure 
Feniiae 

Standing 

21 

— 



— 

10 

lOx  7X16 

Lying 

— 

— 

— 

— 

Chandraprabha 

Standing 

12 

— 

— 

— 

2  others 



12 

— 

— 

— 

11 

12X  8X25 

Chandraprabha 

Sitting 

21 

Crescent 

1526 

1469 

12 

31X10X25 

Sambhunath 

21 

Horse 

— 

— 

IS 

40X10X25 

Neminath 

Standing 

21 

Shell 

1627 

1470 

Sambhunath 

Sitting 

— 

— 

— 

— 

Mabayira 

Standing 



Horse 

1525 

1468 

14 

26x16x32 

Adinath 

Sitting 

29 

Lion 

1525 

1468 

15 

26x16x33 

Adinath 

Sitting 

28 

Bull 





16 

24x22x84 



80 

— 

— 

— 

17 

80x  8x80 

Knnthunath 

Standing 

26 







Shantanath 

26 

Goat 

1525 

1468 

Adinath 

26 

Antelope 

— 

— 

And  4  others 

26 

Wheel 



-_ 

18 

15x10x30 

Standing 

26 



_^ 

19 

16X10X80 

26 





— 

90 

12x  8X20 

Adinath 

8 

Wheel 

_ 

_ 

SI 

27X85X15 



— 

102 


ROUTE  5a.      AGRA  TO  MAKIKPUR 


India 


The  first.  European  who  describes 
these  statues  was  Father  Montserrat, 
who  visited  Gwalior  on  his  way  from 
Surat  to  Delhi,  in  the  reign  of  Akbar 
(see  As,  Researches^  ix.  p.  213). 

The  Prisons  are  in  a  small  outwork 
on  the  W.  side  of  the  fort,  above  the 
Dhonda  gate.  They  are  called  the  Nau- 
chokij  nine  cells,  and  are  well  lighted 
and  well  ventilated  ;  but  must  have 
been  insufferablv  close  in  the  hot 
season.  Here  Akbar  confined  his  re- 
bellious cousins,  and  Aurangzib  his  son 
Muhammad,  and  the  sons  of  Dara  and 
Murad. 


122  m.  Datia  sta.  A  town  of  28,000 
inhabitants,  the  residence  of  the  Chief 
of  the  Datia  state,  which  contains  an 
area  of  836  sq.  m. 

The  town  stands  on  a  rocky  height 
surrounded  by  a  good  stone  wall.  It 
is  full  of  picturesque  houses  and  palaces. 

The  Raja's  present  residence  stands 
within  the  town  surrounded  by  a  pretty 
garden.  To  the  W.  of  the  town,  beyond 
the  walls,  is  a  very  large  palace  of 
great  architectural  beauty,  now  un- 
tenanted. A  group  of  Jain  temples, 
4  m.  distant,  are  curious.  Datia  is  a 
place  the  lover  of  the  picturesque  should 
not  pass  by. 

138  m.  Jhansijuno.  sta.  (seep.  90). 

From  Jhansi  7  m.  Orchha  sta.  is  the 
old  capital  of  Orchha  state,  the  oldest 
and  highest  in  rank  of  all  the  Bundela 
Principalities,  and  the  only  one  of  them 
that  was  not  held  in  subjection  by  the 
Peshwa.  It  is  built  on  both  banks  of 
the  Betwa.  There  is  an  Imposing 
fortress,  connected  by  a  wooden  bridge 
with  the  rest  of  the  tewn,  containing 
the  former  residence  of  the  Rajah,  and  a 
palace  built  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  Emperor  Johangir. 

Tehri  {Tekamgarh)y  the  present 
capital,  in  the  S.  W.  comer  of  the  stete, 
is  about  40  m.  S.  from  Orchha,  with 
which  town  and  Baumari  it  is  connected 
by  road. 

18  m.  Barwa.Saugarsta.,D.B.  The 
town  IS  picturesquely  situated  at  the 
*bot  of  a  rocky  ridge  on  the  shore  of  the 


Barwa-SaugarLake,an  artificial  sheet  of 
water  formed  by  a  masonry  embank- 
ment f  m.  in  length,  constracted  by 
Udit  Sing,  Raja  of  Orchha,  between 
1705-37,  containing  two  craggy,  wooded 
islete.  Below,  a  tract  of  lanoTextending 
over  4  m.,  is  thickly  planted  with  mango 
and  other  trees,  often  of  great  age  and 
enormous  size.  N.  W.  of  tne  town  rises 
a  fine  old  castle  also  built  by  Udit  Sing, 
but  now  uninhabited.  3  m.  W.  stand 
the  remains  of  an  old  Chandel  temple 
built  of  solid  blocks  of  stone,  carved 
with  the  figures  of  Hindu  gods,  much 
defaced  by  Mussulmans.  The  town 
consiste  of  three  diviaions  separated  by 
stretehes  of  cultivated  land,  and  the 
houses  are  prettily  embosomed  in  foli- 
age. 

40  m.  Man  ste.,  D.B.  (pon.  23,500). 
Mail  Ranipur  is,  next  to  Jhansi,  the 
principal  commercial  town  of  Jliansi 
district.  Its  buildings  are  remarkably 
picturesque,  in  the  style  peculiar  to 
Bundelkund,  with  deep  eaves  between 
the  first  and  second  stories,  and  hanging 
balconies  of  unusual  beauty.  Trees  line 
many  of  the  streete,  and  handsome 
temnles  ornament  the  town  ;  the  prin- 
cipal being  that  of  the  Jains  with  two 
solid  spires  and  several  cupolas.  An 
old  bnck- built  Fort  with  bastions 
adjoins  the  bazaar  and  conteins  the 
public  offices.  The  town  is  of  quite 
modern  commercial  importence,  having 
risen  from  the  position  of  a  small  agri- 
cultural village  since  1785,  through  the 
influx  of  merchants  from  Chhatarpor. 
Kharwa  cloth  is  manufactured  and 
exported  to  all  parte  of  India. 

67  m.  Jaitpur  ste.  The  town  was 
formerly  the  capitel  of  a  native  state. 
It  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  banks 
of  the  Bela  Tal.  Probably  founded  in 
the  early  part  of  the  18th  centory  by 
Ja^traj,  son  of  the  famous  Bundela 
Raja,  Chatar  Sal,  who  built  the  large 
fort  still  in  existence.  The  town 
resembles  a  collection  of  separate  vil- 
lages, fully  2  m.  in  length,  but  ver}' 
narrow.  Handsome  temple  ;  two  forti 
one  of  which  could  contidn  almost 
the  whole  population. 

The  Bela  Tal,  a  teuk  or  lake  damm< 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


jrj- 
ts. 

wt  I 

1 


ROtfTfi  5a.       MAliOBA 


lOS 


ap  with  solid  masonry  by  the  Chandel 
ralers  of  Mahoba  in  the  9th  century 
extends  for  5  m.  in  circumference,  but 
is  now  very  shallow,  the  embankment 
having  burst  in  1869. 

86  m.  Mahoba  sta.  D.B.  The  town, 
founded  about  800  a.d.  by  Raja  Chan- 
dra Varmma,  stands  on  the  side  of  the 
Madan  Saugar  Lake,  constructed  by  the 
Chandel  Rajas,  and  consists  of  three 
distinct  portions — one  N.  of  the  central 
hill  known  as  the  Old  Fort ;  one  on 
the  top  of  the  hill  known  as  the  Inner 
Fort ;  and  one  to  the  S.  known  as  Dariba. 
Architectural  antiquities  of  the  Chandel 
period  abound  throughout  the  neigh- 
bourhood. The  Ram  Kund  marks  the 
place  where  Chandra  Varmma,  founder 
of  the  dynasty,  died  j  and  the  tank 
is  believed  to  be  a  reservoir  into  which 
the  united  waters  of  all  holy  streams 
pour  themselves.  The  Fort,  now  almost 
mlirely  in  ruins,  commands  a  beautiful 
tiew  over  the  hills  and  lakes.  The 
temple  of  Munia  Devi,  partially  reno- 
rated,  has  in  front  of  its  entrance  a 
stone  pillar  inscribed  to  Madana  Varm- 
ma. Of  the  lakes,  confined  by  magni- 
ficent masonry  dams,  two  have  greatly 
silted  up ;  but  the  Kirat  and  Madan 
Saugars,  works  of  the  11th  and  12th 
centuries,  still  remain  deep  and  clear 
^eets  of  water.  The  shores  of  the 
lakes  and  the  islands  in  their  midst 
are  thickly  covered  with  ruined  temples, 
monstrous  figures  carved  out  of  the 
solid  rock,  pillars,  broken  sculpture, 
aod  other  early  remains,  while  on  the 
hills  above  stand  the  summer-houses 
of  the  early  Rajas,  and  shrines  over- 
hang the  edge.  Relics  of  Jain  temples 
and  Buddhist  inscriptions  also  occur. 
The  existing  monuments  of  Moham- 
medan date  include  the  tomb  of  Jalhan 
Khan,  constructed  from  the  fragments 
of  a  Shivite  temple,  and  a  mosque  also 
bailt  of  Chandel  materials. 

The  modem  town  contains  a  tahsil^ 
police-station,  post  office,  school,  dis- 
pensary, and  D.B. 

[34  m.  S.  of  Mahoba  is  the  ancient 
decayed  town  of  Khajaraho,  formerly 
he  capital  of  the  old  province  of 
Jahoti.    Hiouen  Thsang  mentions  it  in 


the  7  th  century ;  and  General  Cunning- 
ham attributes  to  the  same  date  a 
single  pillared  tendple  called  Ganthai, 
and  a  nigh  mound  which  probably 
conceals  the  ruins  of  a  BuddMst  mon- 
astery. Upwards  of  20  temples  still 
stand  in  the  town,  and  the  ruins  of  at 
least  as  many  more  bear  witness  to  its 
former  greatness.  In  one  alone  General 
Cunningham  counted  over  800  statues 
half  life-size,  and  8  sculptured  ele- 
phants of  like  proportions.  The  inner 
shrine  of  this  edifice  constituted  in  it- 
self a  splendid  temple,  and  was  crowded 
with  figures.  Captain  Burt  noticed 
seven  large  temples  of  exquisite  carving, 
whose  mechanical  construction  adapted 
them  to  last  for  almost  indefinite 
periods.  Most  or  all  of  these  noble 
buildings  and  the  inscriptions  found 
in  the  neighbourhood  must  be  referred 
to  the  Chandel  dynastjr,  who  ruled  at 
Ehajuraho  apparently  from  870  to  1200 
A.D.  The  modern  village  contains  only 
about  160  houses.] 

119  m.  Banda  sta.  ajc  (R.),  D.B.,  isa 
municipal  town  and  the  administrative 
headquarters  of  Banda  district.  It 
stands  on  an  undulating  plain  1  m. 
E.  of  right  bank  of  the  Ken  river. 

The  modem  town  derived  its  im- 
portance from  the  residence  of  the 
Nawab  of  Banda,  and  from  its  position 
as  a  cotton  mart.  After  the  removal 
of  the  Nawab  in  1858  owing  to  his  dis- 
loyalty during  the  Mutiny,  the  town 
began  to  decline,  while  the  growth  of 
Rajapur  as  a  rival  cotton  emporium 
has  largely  deprived  Banda  of  this 
trade.  The  town  is  straggling  and  ill 
built,  but  with  clean  wide  streets. 
It  contains  66  mosques,  161  Hindu 
temples,  and  6  Jain  temples,  some  of 
which  possess  fair  architectural  merit 

Cantonments  1  m.  from  the  town  on 
the  Fatehpur  Road. 

162  m.  Earwi  sta.  (pop.  4100).  In 
1805  the  town  formed  a  cantonment  for 
British  troops,  and  in  1829  it  became 
the  principal  residence  of  the  Peshwa's 
representative,  who  lived  in  almost 
regal  state,  built  several  beautiful  tem- 
ples and  wells.  Numerous  traders  from 
th  e  Deccan  were  thus  attracted  to  Karwi. 


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104 


ftOUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


During  the  Mutiny  Narayan  Rao,  after 
the  murder  at  Banda  of  Mr.  Cockerell, 
Joint-Magistrate  of  Karwi,  assumed  the 
government,  and  retained  his  independ- 
ence for  eight  months  amid  the  subse- 
quent anarchy.  The  accumulations  of 
his  family  constituted  the  great  treasure 
afterwards  so  famous  as  the  **Kirwee 
and  Banda  Prize  Money. "  It  was  kept 
in  a  vault  of  the  Bara,  a  large  building 
forming  the  palace  of  Narayan  Rao's 
family.  Since  the  Mutiny  the  pro- 
sperity of  Karwi  has  gradually  declined. 
There  is  a  magnificent  temple  and  tank 
with  masonry  well  attached,  known  as 
the  Ganesh  Bagh,  built  by  Vinayak  Rao 
in  1837.  There  are  five  mosques  and 
as  many  Hindu  temples. 

181  m.  Manikpur  junc.  sta.  of  £.  I. 
Rly.  and  Jubbulpore  Kly.  (see  p.  36.) 


ROUTE  6 

Bombay  to  Delhi  through  Baroda, 
Ahmedabad,  Ajmere,   Bandikui, 

AND  JeYPORB. 

Rail.  890  m.  Mail  trains  40^  hrs.  in 
transit.  Through  fares  approximately, 
first  class  56  rs.,  second  class  28  rs., 
and  servants  9  rs.  For  some  railway 
rules  see  Rte.  1,  p.  26.  The  route 
is  throughout  by  the  6.  B.  and  C.  I. 
Rly.  Tnere  is  a  chan^  of  ^uge  at 
Ahmedabad.  The  stations  in  Bombay 
are  Colaba,^  Church  Gate  Station^  and 
GrarU  Road^  where  ample  time  is  given. 

9  m.  Hahim  sta.,  where  the  rly. 
crosses  a  causeway  connecting  the 
island  of  Bombay  with  the  island  of 
Salsette.  The  country  is  flat,  studded 
with  villages  and  cocoa-nut  groves. 

The  Scottish  Orphanage^  established 
here  in  1859,  is  the  only  institution  of 
the  kind  in  the  Bombay  Presidency. 

10  m.  Bandarasta.,  1.,  on  sea-shore,  a 
favourite  residence  for  persons  who  have 
daily  business  in  Bombay  ;  it  is  nearly 
surrounded  by  water,  and  is  cooler  than 
Bombay.  Several  chapels  built  by  the 
Portuguese  still  exist  here,  notably 
that  of  Mount  Mary,  held  in  respect 

1  It  la  advisable  to  start  flpom  the  Ctolaba 
terminus  to  ensure  getting  places. 


for  miles  around  by  all  the  inhabitants. 
Christian  and  otherwise. 

Here  are  a  R.  C.  convent  for  orphans, 
and  a  school  for  orphan  boys. 

18  m.  Ctoregaon  sta.  About  1  mUe 
from  the  sta.  are  the  famous  Hindu 
caves  of  Jogeshwar.  See  "  Sights  in 
the  vicinity  of  Bombay,  No.  (6),  p.  26. 

22  m.  Borivli  sta.  is  near  the  Caves 
of  Montpezir  (see  p.  22)  and  the  ruins 
of  a  Jesuit  monastery  of  the  16th 
century.  The  Caves  of  Eanheri  (see  p. 
23)  are  only  5  m.  distant,  but  are  more 
easily  visited  from  the  Talsi  Lake. 

22  m.  Bhayandar  sta.,  on  the  S. 
edffe  of  the  Baisseln  creek,  which  divides 
Sa^tte  from  the  mainland.  Persons 
who  have  made  arransements  to  visit 
the  ruins  of  Bassein  by  boat  or  by  steam 
launch,  embark  at  this  station.  The  rail- 
way here  crosses  the  river  by  a  very  long 
bridge.  On  the  right,  and  for  some  miles 
up  the  stream,  the  scenery  is  most 
beautiful — the  Kamandru^  Hills  and 
Ghodbandar,  with  the  quiet  water  be- 
tween them,  forming  a  tropical  landscape 
as  charming  as  can  be  seen  in  India.^ 

83  m.  Basseiii  Boad  sta.,  i^  D.B. 
The  ruins  are  distant  about  5  m. 

The  first  notice  we  have  of  Bassein 
is  in  1532,  when  the  Portuguese  ravaged 
the  neighbourhood  and  burned  all  the 
towns  hetween  it  and  Chikli  Tara- 
pur.  In  1534  they  took  Daman,  which 
they  still  hold,  and  obliged  Sultan 
Bahadur  of  Guzerat,  then  hard  pressed  by 
the  Emperor  Humayun,  to  cede  Bassein 
in  perpetuity.  "For  more  than  200 
years  Bassein  remained  in  the  hands  of 
the  Portuguese,  and  during  this  time 
it  rose  to  such  prosperity  that  the  city 
came  to  be  called  the  Court  of  the 
North,  and  its  nobles  were  proverbial  for 
their  wealth  and  magnificence.  "With 
plentiful  su]5plies  of  both  timber  and 
stone,  Bassein  was  adorned  by  many 
noble  buildings,  including  a  cathedral, 
5  convents,  13  churches,  and  an  asylum 
for  orphans.  The  dwellings  of  the 
Hidalgos,  or  aristocracy,  who  alone  were 
allowed  to  live  within  the  city  walls, 

1  Write  beforehand  to  station-master  foe 
a  tonga. 


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ROUTE  6.      SURAT 


106 


are  described  (6175)  as  stately  build- 
ings "  (Hunter.)  On  the  17th  February 
1765  the  Marathas  invested  Bassein, 
and  the  town  surrendered  on  the  16th 
of  May,  after  a  most  desperate  resist- 
ance, in  which  thocommandant>  Silveii-a 
de  Mineyes,  was  killed,  and  800  of  the 
garrison  killed  and  wounded,  while  the 
Maratha  Iosk  was  U])wards  of  5000.  On 
the  13th  of  November  1780  General 
Goddard  arrived  before  Bassein,  and  on 
the  28th  his  first  battery  oj)ened  against 
it  He  had  very  powerful  artillery,  and 
one  battery  of  20  mortars,  which  shortly 
after  opened  at  the  distance  of  500  yds., 
and  did  great  execution.  The  place 
surrendered  on  the  11th  December,  on 
which  day  Colonel  Hartley,  with  a  cover- 
ing army  of  2000  men,  defeated  the 
Maratha  relieving  army  of  upwards  of 
24,000  men,  and  killed  its  distinguished 
General,  Ramchandra  Ganesh. 

The  Fort  with  the  ruins  stands  on 
the  Bassein  Creek,  a  little  away  from 
the  sea.  The  fort  is  now  entered  from 
the  N.  There  is  a  road  through  the 
town  ^m  the  rly.  sta. 

The  Old  Town,  5  m.  from  the  sta., 
sorronnded  by  walls  and  ramparts, 
contains  the  ruins  of  the  Cathedral  of 
St  Joseph  and  other  churches  built  by 
Boman  Catholic  missionaries  in  the 
14th  and  15th  centuries.  Several  in- 
scriptions remain,  the  earliest  dated 
1536.  A  guide  is  necessary  to  point 
oat  the  various  ruins.  Among  them 
are  the  church  of  St  Anthony,  the 
Jesuits*  church,  and  the  churches  and 
convents  of  the  Augustinians  and  Fran- 
ciacans. 

Fryer,  describing  the  town  in  1675, 
says:  "Here  were  stately  dwellings 
gnced  with  covered  balconies  and  large 
windows,  two  stories  high,  with  panes 
of  oyster  shell,  which  is  the  usual  glaz- 
ing among9t  them  (the  Portuguese)  in 
India,  or  else  latticed." 

Close  to  these  venerable  ruins  is  a 
modem  temple  of  Shiva. 

116  m.  Udvada  sta.,  remarkable  as 
containing  the  oldest  Fire  Temple  in 
India  It  is  believed  that  the  fire  still 
kept  alive  is  that  which  was  originally 
brought  from  Persia  by  the  Parsis  and 
first  kindled  here  in  700  a.d. 

108  m.  Daman  Boad  sta.,^  D.6. 


Daman  (7  m.  W.)  is  a  Portuguese 
settlement  subordinate  to  Goa.  It  was 
attacked  and  taken  in  1531,  and  again 
in  1535,  and  finally  captured  by  the 
Portuguese  in  1559.  The  town  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Daman  Gunga  river,  which 
has  a  bad  bar.  Outside  is  a  roadstead. 
The  place  in  the  days  of  small  ships 
had  a  very  considerable  trade.  It  has 
a  fort  on  each  bank  of  the  river.  In 
the  main  fort,  on  left  bank,  are  the 
ruins  of  an  old  monastery  and  two 
churches, — onlv  Christians  may  reside 
within  the  walls.  In  it  are  the  houses 
of  the  governor  and  his  staff  and  the 
public  offices.  The  smaller  fort  of  St. 
Jerome  opposite  is  more  modem. 

125  m.  Balsar  sta.  This  place  is 
occasionally  used  as  a  rest -camp,  and 
near  it  is  the  village  of  Tithiil  on  the 
sea -coast,  where  many  inhabitants  of 
Guzerat  resort  in  the  hot  season.  There 
are  fine  sands  and  a  grand  rolling  sea. 

149  m.  Navsari  sta.  (pop.  16,276, 
including  4,452  Parsis).  The  capital 
of  the  Gaekwar's  southern  possessions, 
and  the  headquarters,  from  the  earliest 
days,  of  the  rarsi  community.  Here 
the  Zoroastrian  Priesthood  receive  their 
initiation  and  confirmation.  The  Tovm 
Hall  is  an  imposing  building.  A 
Parsi  has  established  here  a  manu- 
factory of  essences  and  soaps  on  Euro- 
pean principles. 

167  m.  SURAT  sta.  sQc  (R.)  The  name 
is  derived  by  Sir  Henry  Elliot  and 
others  from  Saurastra,  the  ancient 
name  of  the  peninsula  of  Eattjrwar, 
with  which  it  was  the  principal  port 
of  communication.  In  the  12th  cent, 
the  Parsis,  who  were  driven  from  Persia 
200  yrs.  before,  and  had  settled  in 
Sanjan  70  m.  from  Surat,  found  their 
way  here  on  the  death  of  the  Sanjan 
chief.  There  are  now  some  89,900 
Parsis  in  India,  but  though  many 
of  them  are  still  to  be  found  here, 
the  greater  number — about  47,500— 
are  settled  in  Bombay.  Amongst 
Indian  cities  it  is  not  a  place  of  anti- 
quity, but  it  had  a  large  trade  at  the 
end  of  the  15th  cent,  and  in  the  18th 
was  one  of  the  most  populous  and 
important  mercantile  cities  in  India, 
the  port  being   much  frequented  by 

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106 


ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DEtHl 


India 


British  and  other  European  traders.  It 
is  the  seat  of  a  collectorate,  is  situated 
on  the  river  Tapti,  and  is  surrounded 
on  the  land  side  by  a  wall  about  5^  m. 
round,  with  12  gates.  Except  the  main 
street  running  from  the  station  road  to 
the  castle,  the  streets  in  Surat  are  nar- 
row and  tortuous,  and  many  of  them 
still  bear  marks  of  the  creat  fire  in 
1837,  which  raged  for  nearly  two  days, 
when  9378  houses  were  destroyed,  and 
many  persons  perished.  Again  in  1889 
a  fire  broke  out  which  raged  for  over 
12  hrs.,  and  destroyed  1350  shops  and 
houses.  In  1 896  Lord  Elgin  here  inaugur- 
ated the  new  "  Rupee  Railway  "  a  local 
joint-stock  enterprise,  to  run  up  the 
valley  of  the  Tapti. 

The  population  of  Surat  as  late  as 
1797  was  estimated  at  800,000,  but  as 
Bombay  rose  Surat  declined,  until  in 
1841  it  had  only  80,000  inhabitants. 
From  1847  its  prosperity  gradually  in- 
creased, and  the  population  now  (1891) 
numbers  109,000. 

The  Portuguese  found  their  way  to 
the  place  soon  after  their  arrival  in 
India,  and  in  1512  sacked  the  then  open 
town.  On  the  19th  January  1573  it 
surrendered  to  Akbar  after  a  siege  of  1 
month  and  17  days.  Early  in  the  17  th 
cent,  the  English  began  to  visit  it,  and 
in  1612  the  Moeul  Emperor  sent 
down  a  finnan,  authorising  an  English 
minister  to  reside  at  his  court,  and 
opening  to  English  subjects  the  trade 
at  Surat.  In  1615  Captain  Downton, 
with  four  ships,  mounting  80  guns, 
defeated  the  Portuguese  fleet,  consist- 
ing of  four  galleons,  three  other  large 
ships,  and  60  smaller  vessels,  mounting 
in  all  134  guns.  This  victory  estab- 
lished the  reputation  of  the  English 
for  war,  and  their  superiority  over  the 
Portuguese.  The  Dutch  trade  with 
Surat  commenced  in  1616,  and  for  some 
years  the  Dutch  Factory  competed 
successfully  with  the  English  at  Surat. 
The  French  Factory  was  not  founded 
till  1668,  when  the  agents  of  the  French 
East  India  Company,  which  Colbert  had 
established  in  1664,  settled  at  Surat 
On  January  the  6th  of  the  same  year 
the  prosperity  of  Surat  received  a 
severe  blow  from  Shivaji,  the  founder 
of   the    Maratha    Empire,    who  with 


4000  horse  surprised  the  city,  and 
plundered  it  for  six  days.  He  laid 
siege  to  the  English  factory,  but  all  his 
attempts  to  take  it  failed  on  account 
of  the  gallantly  of  the  few  factors  who 
defended  it.  Their  courageous  defence 
so  pleased  Aurangzib,  that  he  sent  Sir 
G.  Oxenden  a  robe  of  honour,  and 
granted  the  English  an  exemption  from 
customs.  The  walls  of  Surat  up  to 
this  time  were  of  mud,  but  they  were 
now  ordered  to  be  built  of  brick.  Surat 
was  again  partially  pillaged  by  the 
Marathas  in  1670,  1702,  and  1706. 
About  this  timecommenced  thedispntes 
of  the  rival  London  and  English  Com- 
panies ;  and  on  the  19th  of  January 
1700  Sir  Nicholas  Waite,  Consul  for 
the  King,  and  President  of  the  New 
Company,  arrived  at  Surat.  The 
struggle  of  the  Companies  continued 
till  1708,  when  they  were  united.  A 
new  era  now  began  to  dawn  upon  the 
English  at  Surat.  They  were  fast  ap- 
proaching the  period  when  they  were 
to  acquire  political  influence  m  the 
city,  which  was  then  regarded  as  the 
greatest  emporium  of  W.  India. 

In  1759  the  Nawab  signed  a  treaty 
by  which  the  castle  and  fleet  were 
made  over  to  the  English  with  a  yearly 
stipend  of  200,000  rs.  This  arrange- 
ment was  confirmed  by  the  Emperor  at 
Delhi,  and  the  English  authority  was 
firmly  established  in  Surat.  In  1842 
the  last  titular  Nawab  died,  and  the 
flag  of  Delhi  was  removed  from  the 
castle. 

The  Castle,  so  prominent  in  the 
early  annals  of  the  English  in  W. 
India,  stands  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  was  built  by  a  Turkish  soldier  about 
1540.  It  is  an  uninteresting  brick 
building  with  walls  about  8  ft.  thick, 
much  modernised.  There  is  a  good 
view  of  the  city  and  river  from  the 
S.W.  bastion.  Over  the  E.  gateway  is 
an  inscription. 

Factories.  — The  remains  of  the  JSng- 
lish  Factory  are  near  the  way  to  the 
Katargaon  Gate,  close  to  the  river. 
The  building  is  now  a  private  dwelling. 
N.  of  it  is  the  Portuguese  Factory,  where 
some  records  are  still  kept.  A  wooden 
cross  marks  the  site  of  the  church. 
Close  to  this  are  the  vacant  site  of  the 


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ROtTTB  6.      BROACH 


107 


French  Lodge  and  the  Persian  Factory. 
AdjoiDing  the  castle  is  the  well-kept 
Victoria  Gfarden,  of  8  acres.  There  is 
a  fine  view  of  the  town  from  the  Clock 
Totoer, 

In  the  ETvglisk  Cemetery^  N.  of  the 
city  on  the  Broach  Road,  is  (on  the  rt. 
on  entering)  the  mausoleum  of  Sir 
George  Ozendon,  and  near  it  the  tomb 
of  his  brother  Christopher. 

The  Dutch  Cemetery  is  also  curious 
from  the  great  size  of  the  monuments. 
The  most  striking  is  that  of  Baron  van 
Rheede,  a  learned  man,  who  was  the 
author  of  the  valuable  work,  **  Hortus 
Mcdabaricus,"  and  made  valuable  col- 
lections of  books  and  curiosities,  which 
he  sent  to  Holland. 

The  chief  Mosques  are— 

1.  Khwajah  Diwan  Sahib's  Mosque, 
buUt  about  1530.  He  is  said  to  have 
come  to  Surat  from  Bokhara,  and  to 
have  lived  to  the  age  of  116.  2.  The 
Nau  Saiyad  Mosque,  '*  Mosque  of  the 
Nine  Saiyads,"  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Gopi  I^e.  3.  The  Sayyad  Idrus Mosque, 
in  Sayyadpura,  with  a  minaret,  one  of 
the  most  conspicuous  objects  in  Surat ; 
it  was  bnilt  in  1639,  in  honour  of  the 
ancestor  of  the  present  Eazi  of  Surat. 
4.  The  Mirza  SamiMosque,  built  1540  by 
Khndawand  Ehan,  who  built  the  castle. 

The  Tombs  of  the  Bohras  deserve  a 
visit.  There  are  two  chief  Parsi  ftre- 
temples,  built  in  1823.  The  Hindu  sect 
of  the  Walabhacharis  has  three  temples. 
The  Swami  Narayan  temple,  with  three 
white  domes,  is  visible  all  over  the  city. 
In  the  two  old  temples  in  the  Ambaji 
ward  the  shrines  are  15  ft.  underground, 
a  relic  of  Mohammedan  persecution. 
The  Shravaks,  or  Jains,  have  42  temples, 
the  chief  of  which  are  from  150  to  200 
years  old.  There  are  several  steam 
Cotton  Mills  here ;  and  carved  sandal 
wood  and  inlaid  work  form  important 
industries. 

Across  the  Hope  Bridge  3  m.  is 
Sander^  built  on  the  site  of  a  very 
ancient  Hindu  city,  destroyed  by  the 
Mohammedans  in  the  12th  century. 
The  Jumma  Musjid  stands  on  the  site 
of  the  principal  Jain  Temple.  In  the 
fa9ade  the  bases  of  the  Jain  columns 
ure  still  visible,  and  the  great  idol  is 
l^aced  head  downwards  as  a  doorstep 


for  the  faithful  to  tread  on  in  entering 
the  mosque.  In  another  mosque  are  the 
wooden  columns  and  domes  belonging 
to  the  Jain  Temple,  which  are  the  only 
wooden  remains  of  the  kind  in  Guzerat. 
2  m.  after  leaving  Surat  the  Tapti  or 
Tapi  river  is  crossed  by  a  very  long 
bridge,  and  close  to  BroRohthe  Nerbudda 
or  J^rmada  river  is  passed  on  the  finest 
Bridge  on  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Railway. 
From  it  a  good  view  is  obtained  on  left  of 

203  m.  Broach  sta.  (R.)  D.B. 
{B?iaroch),  is  a  place  of  extieme 
antiquity,  but  unmterestin^.  Pop. 
37,000.  Part  of  the  town  is  withm 
about  J  m.  from  railway  station.  The 
author  of  the  PeripluSt  60-210  A.D., 
mentions  Broach  under  the  name  of 
Barugaza.  It  was  then  ruled  by  a  Gurj  - 
jara  prince,  probably  a  feudatorv  of  some 
larger  state,  and  subsequently  fell  under 
l^e  rule  of  the  Chalukyas.  The  Mos- 
lems appeared  in  the  8th  cent.,  and 
Broach  was  ruled  by  them  from  1297 
to  1772.  In  1613  a.d.  it  was  first 
visited  by  Aldworth  and  Withington, 
English  merchants,  and  in  1614  a  house 
was  hired  for  a  factory,  permission  to 
establish  which  was  granted  to  Sir 
Thomas  Roe  by  Jehangir  in  161 6.  The 
Dutch  set  up  a  factory  in  1617.  In 
1686  the  Marathas  plundered  Broach. 
On  the  18th  of  November  1772  the 
British  troops  stormed  the  place  with 
the  loss  of  their  commander.  General 
Wedderbum,  whose  tomb  is  at  the 
N.  W.  corner  of  the  Fort.  On  the  29th 
of  August  1803  Broach  was  again  taken 
by  storm  by  the  British. 

The  Nerbvdda  here  is  a  noble  river, 
1  m.  in  breadth.  The  city  with  its 
suburbs  covers  a  strip  of  land  2^  m.  long 
and  f  m.  broad,  hence  by  its  inhabitants 
it  is  called  Jibh,  or  "  the  tongue. "  The 
Fort  stands  on  a  hill  more  than  100  ft. 
above  the  river,  and  a  massive  stone 
wall  lines  the  river  bank  for  about  1 
m.  The  streets  are  narrow,  and  some 
of  them  steep.  The  houses  are  of  plain 
brick,  two  stories  high,  with  tiled 
roofs.  In  the  Fort  are  the  Collector's 
Office,  the  Civil  Courts,  the  Dutch 
Factory,  the  Jail,  the  Civil  Hospital, 
the  English  Church  and  School,  the 
Municipal  Office,  aiid  the  JLibrary. 

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108 


ROUTE  6.   .  BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


The  Dutch  tombs  are  2  m.  W.  of  the 
Fort,  and  some  100  yds.  otf  the  road  1. 
Two  of  them  are  from  16  to  20  ft.  high. 

Opposite  the  Dutch  tombs  are  five 
Tovjers  of  Silence^  one  of  them  about 
15  ft  high.  The  second  tower  is  still  in 
use.  Outside  the  E.  gate  on  the  river 
bank  is  the  Temple  of  BhriguBishi,  from 
whom  the  town  got  the  name  of  Brigu- 
kackha,  contracted  into  Bharuoh. 

Broach  is  celebrated  for  its  cotton 
there  are  two  spinning  and  weaving 
mills  and  several  ginning  and  cotton 
pressing  factories. 

[10  m.  to  the  E.  of  Broach  is  the 
celebrated  place  of  Hindu  pilgrimage, 
Shukaltirth.  It  is  on  the  N.  or  right 
bank  of  the  Nerbudda,  and  here  Chan- 
akya,  King  of  Ujjain,  was  purified  of 
his  sins,  having  arrived  at  this  holy 
spot  by  sailing  down  the  Nerbudda  in  a 
boat  with  black  sails,  which  turned 
white  on  hisreachingShukaltrith.  Here 
too  Chandragupta  and  his  minister, 
Chanakya,  were  cleansed  from  the  guilt 
of  murdering  Chandragupta's  eight 
brothers,  and  here  Chamund,  King  of 
Anhilwada,  in  the  11th  century,  ended 
his  life  as  a  penitent.  There  are  three 
sacred  waters — the  Kavi,  the  Hunkar- 
eshwar,  and  the  Shukal.  At  the  second 
of  these  is  a  temple  with  an  image  of 
Vishnu.  The  temple  is  not  remark- 
able. There  is  a  fair  here  in  November, 
at  which  25,000  people  assemble.  Op- 
posite Mangleshwar,  which  is  1  m.  up 
stream  from  Shukltirth,  in  the  Ner- 
budda,  isan  island  in  which  is  the  famous 
Banian  Tree  called  the  Kabir  wad,  or 
**the  fig-tree  of  Kabir,"  from  whose 
toothpick  it  is  said  to  have  originated. 
It  has  suffered  much  from  floods. 
Forbes,  who  visited  Broach  1776-88, 
says  in  his  Oriental  Memoirs^  i  p.  26, 
it  enclosed  a  space  within  its  principal 
stems  2000  ft.  in  circumference.  It  had 
350  large  and  3000  small  trunks,  and 
had  been  known  to  shelter  7000  men. 
Bishop  Heber,  in  April  1825,  says 
though  much  had  been  washed  away, 
enough  remained  to  make  it  one  of  the 
vmost  noble  groves  in  the  world.  A 
8i«iall  temple  marks  the  spot  where  the 
orignnal  trunk  grew.] 

<.  4n,i^.*  "^y"««»i  i^nc.  sta.     This  is 
a  3^^-tion  of  a  system  of  narrow  gauge 


railways  (2'  6")  owned  by  the  Gaekwar 
of  Baroda  and  worked  by  the  B.B. 
and  C.  I.  Rly.  Dabhoi  is  the  place  of 
chief  interest  on  these  lines,  and  may 
best  be  visited  by  leaving  the  main  line 
at  Miyagam  and  rejoining  it  at  Viik- 
vamitri  jmiction,  2  m.  S.  of  Baroda  sta., 
if  the  traveller  intends  continuing  his 
journey;  but  for  seeing  the  ci^  of 
Baroda,  it  may  be  better  to  leave  the 
train  at  Goya  Gate  sta. 

[From  Miyagam  20  m.  DabhM,  a  town 
belonging  to  the  state  of  Baroda.  Pop. 
16,000.  The  ancient  Hindu  architec- 
ture of  this  place  is  most  interesting, 
and  is  little  known.  It  appears  to 
have  escaped  notice  by  James  Fergusson, 
whom  it  would  have  delighted.  The  Fort 
is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Vaghela 
king  of  Patau  in  the  13th  century. 

The  Baroda  Gate  is  31  ft  high, 
with  elaborately  carved  pilasters  on 
either  side.  Tne  carvings  represent 
the  incarnations  of  Vishnu,  and 
njrmphs  sporting  with  heavenly  alliga- 
tors. Near  this  the  interior  colonnades 
in  the  Fort  walls  are  very  interesting. 
They  afford  shelter  to  the  garrison. 
The  roofs  give  an  ample  rampart,  but 
they  indicate  no  fear  of  the  breaching 
power  of  artillery.  Pass  then  through 
dusty  streets,  in  which  the  houses  are  of 
immense  solidity,  and  built  of  burnt 
brick  much  worn  by  the  weather,  to  the 
S.  or  Nandod  gate,  which  is  29  ft 
high  and  16  ft.  4  in.  wide.  Trees  have 
grown  in  the  walls  and  fractured  them 
with  their  thick  roots.  The  Hira  Gate 
in  the  E.  face  of  the  town  is  37  ft. 
high,  and  a  marvel  of  minute  carviug. 
On  the  spectator's  left  as  he  looks  out 
from  inside  the  tower,  is  the  temple  of 
Maha  Kali,  and  on  his  right  beyond  the 
gate  and  inside  it  is  a  smaller  temple, 
now  quite  ruined.  These  gates  are  well 
worth  attention.  The  Temple  of  Maha 
Kali  is  a  wondrous  example  of  carving, 
which  when  new  must  have  been  very 
beautiful,  but  is  now  much  worn  by 
the  weather.  The  carving  of  the  gate 
outside  the  town  is  elaborate.  About 
10  ft.  up  in  the  N.  face  of  the  centre,  a 
man  ana  woman  are  carved  4  ft.  high, 
standing  with  a  tree  between  them, 
like  the  old  representations  of  Adam 
and  Eve.     To  the  left  is  the  tall  figure 

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ROUTE  6.      BARODA 


109 


of  a  devil,  with  a  ghastly  leer.  High 
in  the  centre  face  is  an  elephant,  under 
which  the  hoilder  of  the  gate  is  said  to 
have  heen  interred.  On  the  N.  side 
of  the  town  is  what  was  the  palace,  in 
which  the  law  courts  now  sit.  There  is  a 
fine  tank  on  this  side  and  the  Mori  gate. 
(From  Dahhoi  a  branch  rly.  runs  10  m. 
S.  to  Chandod  sta. ,  a  celebrated  place 
of  Hindu  pilgrimage,  owing  to  its 
situation  at  the  confluence  of  the 
NerhvMa  and  the  Or,  Thousands 
flock  there  every  full  moon.  On  the 
further  side  of  the  Nerbudda  the  ter- 
ritory of  the  Rajah  of  Rajpipla  is 
entered). 

29  m.  Bahadarpur  sta.  The  line  is 
in  construction  K  to 

38  m.  Songir,  where  there  are 
quarries  of  fine  marble. 

(15  m.  N.E.  of  Bahadarpur  is  the 
fortified  mountain  of  Pauxingarh  and 
f^-.  mined  city  of  Champanirf  (see  p. 
ilO).] 

^tt  m.  BABODA  sOe  (R.)  is  the  capi- 
tal of  the  very  important  Maratha 
state  of  the  Gaekwar,  which  with  its 
dependencies  covers  an  area  of  8570 
sq.  m.,  with  a  pop.  of  2,415,400. 

The  CantonrnerU  and  Besidevvcy  are  a 
long  m.  N.  from  the  railway  station  and 
adjoin  one  another.  They  are  well 
laid  out  with  open  well-planted  roads. 

The  city  of  Baroda  is  S.  £.  of  the  can- 
tonment, about  1  m.  It  is  a  large  busy 
place,  with  a  pop.  of  116,400,  but  con- 
tains few  sights  to  detain  a  traveller. 
TTie  Vishvamitri  river  flows  W.  of  the 
town,  and  is  spanned  by  four  stone 
bridges,  which  exhibit  great  contrasts 
of  ttyle.  The  city  proper  is  intersected 
at  right  angles  by  two  wide  thorough- 
fores,  which  meet  in  a  market-place, 
where  there  is  ajinepaviluni  of  Moham- 
■9dan  architecture.  The  new  Lakshmi 
'^Qas  Palace,  seen  from  the  railway 
towering  above  the  town,  cost  27  lacs 
of  rupees.  Passes  to  view  it  can  be  ob- 
tained from  the  Governor  Gen.'s  Agent. 
The  suburban  palace  Mukhapnra  is  4 
a.  8.  of  the  city.  There  are  also  many 
other  handsome  modem  buildings, 
amongst  which  may  be  mentioned  the 
JUanhUmess  of  Dufferm*8  Hospital^  the 
baroda  Stale  lAhrary^  the  Central  Jail^ 
tJfca  Barvda  College^   and  the  Anglo- 


Vemacula/r  School.  The  English 
Church  was  consecrated  by  Bishop 
Heber  1824,  and  in  1838  was  almost 
entirely  rebuilt.  There  is  a  good 
public  garden  between  the  canton- 
ments and  the  city  on  the  banks  of  the 
Vishvamitri  river.  ^ 

The  Naulakhi  Wdl  is  50  yds.  N.  of 
the  new  palace.  It  is  a  beautiful 
structure  of  the  Baoli  class,  described 
generally  below.  The  water  from  it  is 
pumped  by  steam  into  pipes  leading  to 
the  city,  the  Moti  Bagh,  and  Nazar 
Bctgh.^  Twenty  yds.  beyond  the  Nazar 
Bagh  Gate  on  the  rt.  in  a  barrack  are 
some  small  gold  field-pieces  mounted 
on  silver-plated  carriages.  They  con- 
tain 280  lbs.  weight  each  of  solid  gold, 
and  are  drawn  by  splendid  milk-white 
bullocks,  stabled  hard  by. 

Baroda  is  supplied  with  water  from 
the  artifical  Jjtoa  Lake,  18  m.  distant, 
which  possesses  ah  area  of  4*71  sq.  m. 
It  was  completed  in  1892,  at  a  cost  of 
35  lakhs. 

The  BcLolis,  in  Guzerat,  are  large 
wells.  The  following  account  of  these 
structures  is  given  by  Mr.  A.  Kinloch 
Forbes,  in  his  interesting  work  on 
Guzerat,  the  Bas  MaXa :  "Of  the  wells 
of  this  period  there  remain  in  different 
parts  of  the  country  examples  of  two 
kinds.  Some  are  large  circular  wells 
of  ordinary  construction,  but  contain- 
ing galleried  apartments ;  others  are 
more  properly  described  as  *ivavs*  or 
*baoli8.*  The  tiniv  is  a  large  edifice, 
of  a  picturesque  and  stately,  as  well  as 
peculiar,  character.  Above  the  level  of 
the  ground  a  row  of  four  or  five  open 
pavilions,  at  regular  distances  from 
each  other,  usually  square  in  the 
interior,  but  sometimes,  in  the  larger 
examples,  passing  into  the  octagonal 
form  within,  is  alone  visible  ;  the  roofs 
are  supported  on  columns,  and  are,  in 
the  stractures  of  the  Hindu  times, 
pyramidal  in  form.  The  entrance  to 
the  wav  is  by  one  of  the  end  pavilions  ; 
thence  a  flight  of  steps  descends  to  a 
landing  immediately  under  the  second 
dome,  which  is  now  seen  to  be  sup- 
ported by  two  rows  of  columns,  one 

1  The  Old  Palace  and  Toshah  Khana  are  well 
worth  a  visit. 

2  A  much  finer  specimen  ot  this  class  or 
wells  is  to  be  found  at  Ahmedabad. 

Digitized  byLjOOQlC 


110 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


over  the  other.  A  second  flight  of 
steps  continues  the  descent  to  a  similar 
landing  under  the  third  pavilion, 
where  the  screen  is  found  to  be  three 
columns  in  height  In  this  manner 
the  descent  continues  stage  by  stage, 
the  number  of  the  columns  increasing 
at  each  pavilion,  until  the  level  of  the 
water  is  at  last  reached.  The  last 
flight  of  steps  frequently  conducts  to 
an  octagonal  structure,  in  this  position 
necessarily  several  stories  high,  and 
containing  a  gallery  at  each  story.  It 
is  covered  by  the  terminating  dome, 
and  is  the  most  adorned  portion  of  the 
wav.  The  structure,  which  is  some- 
times 80  yds.  in  length,  invariably 
terminates  in  a  circular  well." 

At  Baroda  the  traveller  has  entered 
the  part  of  Guzerat  that  is  most  fertile 
and  park-like.  It  will  be  a  pity  to 
pass  through  it  in  the  dark.  Nearly 
every  village  has  its  tank  and  its  temple, 
large  well-grown  trees  abound,  and  the 
fields,  which  are  lichly  cultivated,  are 
surrounded  by  high  hedges  of  milk 
bush  {Euphorbia  tintcalli).  The  small 
game  shooting  is  exceptionally  good. 

[An  expedition  may  be  made  from 
Baroda  by  the  Gaekwar*s  narrow  gauge 
rly.  to  the  fortified  mountain  of  Pawan- 
gcurhf  and  the  ruined  city  of  Ghampanir; 
the  distance  is  about  38  m.  Cham- 
pauir  was  long  the  residence  of  the 
kings.  After  many  vicissitudes  it  was 
taken  in  1484  by  Mahmud  Begada  of 
Ahmedabad,  whomadeithis  capital,  and 
in  1535  it  was  besieged  by  Humayun, 
Emp.  of  Delhi.  In  person  he  scaled  the 
precipices  of  the  Fort  by  the  aid  of  iron 
spikes  driven  into  the  rock,  and  opened 
the  gate  to  admit  his  army.  There  are 
remains  of  many  mosques,  tombs,  and 
tanks  in  the  lower  city;  and  in  the 
forest  for  miles  around  may  bo  found 
the  ruins  of  massive  wells,  minarets, 
and  palaces,  which  testify  to  the  former 
greatness  of  Chamianir  ^]. 

270  m.  Anand  junc.  sta. 

[(a)  One  branch  line  from  this  sta,  ex- 
tendsN.E.  to  76m.  OodliraandRutlain.] 

18  m.  Dakor  sta.     There  is  a  " 


miZ^  1^®  architecture  of  Champanir,  Mah- 


lake,  and  a  temple  with  an  image  much 
venerated  by  the  Hindus.  As  many  aa 
100,000  pilgiims  assemble  in  October 
and  November. 

About  20  m.  N.  of  Dakor  is  the 
walled  town  of 

Eapadvanj,  D.B.,  noted  for  its  in- 
dustry in  soap^  glass,  and  leather  jars 
for  **ghee."  The  glass  is  made  by 
Mohammedans  in  large  earthen  fur- 
naces in  form  like  huge  slipper  baths, 
the  floor  sloping  towards  holes  pre- 
pared to  receive  the  melted  sub- 
stance. The  furnace  inside  is  baked 
as  hard  and  looks  as  white  and  slippery 
as  ice.  The  component  parts  of 
the  glass  are  alkali,  us,  an  impure  soda 
compound  partly  carbonate  and  partly 
silicate,  sajj'i  khdr,  and  a  dark-coloured 
flinty  sand  from  Jeypore.  These  are 
mixed  together,  placed  in  the  famaces, 
and  thoroughly  boUed  for  hours. 
When  ready,  the  boiling  mass  is 
allowed  to  run  into  a  trench  to  cooL^ 
It  is  then  broken  into  small  pieces,' 
remelted,  and  in  this  liquid  state  made 
into  bangles,  beads,  bottles,  glasses, 
and  fancy  animals,  chiefly  peacocks. 
The  last  are  extremely  thin  and  brittle. 
This  glass  goes  chiefly  to  Bombay  and 
Eathy  war.  Midway  between  Dakor  and 
Eapadvanj  are  the  hot  springs  of  Las- 
sundra,  the  highest  temperature  being 
115^  The  water  is  slightly  sulphurous 
and  efficacious  in  skin  diseases.  There 
is  a  small  D.B.  in  the  cantonment.] 

[(h)  Another  line  runs  S.  W.  15  m.  to 
Petlad,  a  commercial  town,  pop.  15,528. 

15  m.  S.W.  of  Petlad  is  Cambay, 
the  capital  of  the  Native  State  of  that 
name,  pop.  31,390.  The  town  and 
port  are  of  great  antiquity.  In  A.D. 
913  Cambay  is  described  by  the  Arab 
traveller  Masudi  as  standing  on  the 
shores  of  a  deep  bay  surrounded  by 
towns,  villages,  farms,  cultivated  fields, 
trees,  and  gardens.  It  was  governed 
by  the  kings  of  Anhilvada  (the  modem 
Patau),  up  to  the  end  of  the  13th  cent 
Mohammedan  writers  of  the  period  call 
it  the  *  *  first  city  in  Hind. "  The  beauty 
and  wealth  of  the  country  led  to  its 
invasion  by  the  Mohammedan  Emperor 
Ala-ud-din  in  1304,  when  the  city  was 
plundered  and  its  temples  destroyed. 

Cambay  reached  the  height  of  its 

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glory  under  the  Mohammedans  at  the 
latter  end  of  the  15th  and  beginning 
of  the  16th  cents.,  and  in  1583,  letters 
carried  by  Fitch,  Leedes,  and  New- 
berry from  Queen  Elizabeth,  were  ad- 
dressed to  Akbar  as  King  of  Cambav. 
The  Portuguese  and  Dutch  had  already 
established  factories  here  in  1618  when 
the  English  appeared;  it  was  still  a 
flourishing  city,  but  commenced  to 
decline  as  Surat  increased  in  import- 
ance. In  the  18th  cent  it  was 
plundered  more  than  once  by  the 
Marathas;  at  the  same  time  the  en- 
trance to  the  harbour  began  to  silt  up, 
and  it  has  now  become  as  unimportant 
a  city  as  it  was  formerly  great 

Csonbay  was  formerly  a  stronghold 
of  the  Jains  and  still  possesses  some 
of  their  MSS,  second  only  to  those  at 
Patan.  The  Jumma  Mu^'id  (1325), 
was  built  with  fragments  of  Jain  and 
Hindu  Temples. 

The  town  is  celebrated  for  the  manu- 
&cture  of  agate,  cornelian,  and  onyx 
ornaments.] 

292  m.  Mehmadabad  sta.  i^  Pic^ 
turesque  view  of  river  from  rly.  sta. 
In  the  morning  and  evening  troops  of 
monkeys  play  about  quite  near  the 
titin.  Mehmadabad  was  founded  by 
Mahmud  Begada  in  1479.  There  is  a 
tomb  1^  m.  £.  of  the  town,  built  in 
1484  in  honour  of  Mubarak  Sajryad,  a 
minister  of  Mahmud.  For  simplicity 
of  plan,  and  solidity  and  balance  of 
parts,  it  stands  almost  first  among 
Indian  mausoleums.  Begada  also  con- 
structed the  Bhamuvra  Btzoli  well.  It 
bas  two  stone  arches,  on  which  it  was 
said  the  king's  swing  was  hung.  It  is 
74  ft  long  by  24  ft.  broad,  is  entered 
by  four  winding  stairs,  and  has  eight 
underground  chambers. 

[K&a  {Kheda\  7  m.  from  Mehma- 
dabad, by  a  good  road  shaded  by  fine 
trees  (pop.  29,000),  is  the  largest  town 
in  the  district  of  that  name.  It  consists 
of  two  parts,  the  town  proper  and  the 
soborbe.  Kaira  is  said  to  oe  as  old  as 
1400  B.C.  Copper-plate  grants  show  that 
the  city  was  m  existence  in  the  5th  cent. 
There  are  now  only  five  European  dvil 
officers  resident  there.  The  chief  in- 
dustry is  printingcloth  for  saris  and  other 
native  garments.     In  the  centre  of  the 


town  is  the  Court  House,  a  building 
with  pillars  of  a  Greek  order.  Near  it 
is  a  Jain  Temple,  with  beautiful  dark 
wood  carving.  Outside  the  E.  gate  is  the 
new  Jail.  Outside  the  S.  gate  are  the 
Reading-room  and  Library  and  a  Clock 
Tower,  built  in  1868.  It  was  once  a 
military  cantonment,  but  proved  so 
unhealthy  for  Europeans  that  the  troops 
were  withdrawn.  The  large  church  was 
consecrated  by  Bishop  Heber  in  1822, 
and  has  a  beautiful  bell.  It  is  the 
capital  of  a  coUectorate  of  well- wooded 
fertile  country.  Wild  hog  may  still  be 
found  in  the  district  and  the  Nilgai 
{Portax  pictus\  antelope  (Antilope 
bezoartica),  and  Indian  gazelle  {Oazella 
Bennettii)i  are  very  common.  The 
Sarua  is  a  tall  and  beautiful  gray  crane 
with  a  crimson  head.  All  these  animals, 
assisted  by  monkeys,  do  great  damage 
to  the  crops,  but  the  cultivators  protect 
them  from  sportsmen.  Wild-fowl,  bus- 
tard {Eupodotis  Edwardsii),  and  florican 
{8yj^ieotide$  aurUus)y  partridges  and 
quails,  sand-grouse,  plovers  and  bitterns, 
pea-fowl  and  green  pigeon,  are  found 
everywhere.  The  Mahsir  (Barhus 
Mosal)^  little  inferior  to  the  salmon,  are 
found  in  the  Mahi,  Vatrak,  Meshwa,  and 
Sabarmati,  and  afford  excellent  sport 
with  the  rod  and  fly.  There  are  few 
richer  and  more  pleasing  portions  of 
India  than  the  Kaira  coUectorate.] 

It  may  well  be  asserted  that  the  lines 
of  railway  from  Mehmadabad  and  Rut- 
lam  to' Delhi  through  northern  Guzerat 
and  Rajputana,  traverse  a  country  more 
crowded  with  beautiful  buildings  and 
ruins  than  any  in  the  known  world. 

310  m.  AHMEDABAD,^  June.  sta.  3^ 

This  most  beautiful  city,  covering  an 
area  of  2  sq.  m.  (148,412  inhab.),  stands 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Sabarmati  river, 
which  skirts  its  W.  wall.  The  remains  of 
an  old  wall,  pierced  by  12  gateways, 
surround  it 

Ahmedabad,  once  the  greatest  city 
in  Western  India,  is  said  to  have  been 
from  1578  to  1600  the  '*  handsomest 
town  in   Hindustan,  perhaps  in  the 

1  No  tonrist  should  pass  the  ancient  capital 
of  the  Saltans  of  Guzerat,  the  stronghold  of 
the  northern  Jains,  without  pausing  at  least 
long  enough  (4  hrs.)  to  visit  the  Tombs  qf  the 
Queens.  I^e  chief  objects  of  interest  marked 
with  an  asterisk. 


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ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


world."  In  Sir  Thomas  Roe's  time, 
1616,  we  are  told,  **it  was  a  goodly 
city  as  large  as  London."  It  was 
founded  in  1411  by  Sultan  Ahmad  I., 
who  made  Asaval,  the  old  Hindu  town 
now  included  in  the  S.  part  of  the  city, 
his  capital.  It  passed  through  two 
periods  of  greatness,  two  of  decay, 
and  one  of  revival.  From  1411  to  1511 
it  grew  in  size  and  wealth  ;  from  1512 
to  1572  it  declined  with  the  decay  of 
the  dynasty  of  Guzerat ;  from  1572  to 
1709  it  renewed  its  greatness  under  the 
Mogul  emperors  ;  from  1709  to  1809  it 
dwindled  with  their  decline ;  and  from 
1818  onwards  it  has  again  increased 
under  British  rule. 

The  city  is  supplied  with  filtered  water 
obtained  from  wells  sunk  in  the  bed 
of  the  river,  nearly  opposite  Oonianpur, 

The  Cantonment  lies  3)  m.  N.E.  of 
the  city,  and  is  reached  by  a  good  road 
lined  by  an  avenue  of  trees,  the  haunt  of 
thousands  of  parrots.  Here  there  is  an 
English  Church,  and  there  is  another, 
Christ  Church,  in  the  Idaria  Quarter^ 
600  yds.  S.  of  the  Delhi  Gate. 

It  is  hard  to  account  for  Ahmedabad 
being  so  little  known  to  modem  travel- 
lers from  Europe.  It  certainly  ranks 
next  to  Delhi  and  Agra  for  the  beauty 
and  extent  of  its  architectural  remains. 
Its  architecture  is  an  interesting  and 
striking  example  of  the  combination 
of  Hindu  ana  Mohammedan  forms. 
**  Nowhere  did  the  inhabitants  of  Ah- 
medabad show  how  essentially'  they 
were  an  architectural  people  as  in  their 
utilitarian  works  (wells  [Baoli8\  and  in- 
lets to  water  reservoirs).  It  was  a  ne- 
cessity of  their  nature  that  every  object 
should  be  made  ornamental,  and  their 
success  was  as  great  in  these  as  in  their 
mosques  or  palaces  "  (see  Fergusson). 

The  Jaina  feeding-plctces  for  MrdSf 
which  at  the  first  glance  look  like 
pigeon-houses,  to  be  seen  in  many  of 
the  streets,  are  a  peculiar  feature  of 
Ahmedabad:  they  are  extremely  pic- 
turesque, ornamented  with  carving,  and 
otten  gaily  painted.  Many  of  the  houses 
in  the  street  have  fronts  beautifully 
ornamented  with  wood-carving,  which 
is  a  speciality  of  the  place  (see  below). 

A  traveller  pressed  for  time,  having 
only  one  day  at  his  disposal,  might  take 


the  buildings  in  the  city  in  the  follow- 
ing order  : — 

The  Jumma  Musjid  and  Tombs  of 
Ahmad  Shah  and  his  wives  ;  the  Rani 
Sipari's  Tomb  and  Mosque;  Dastur 
Khan's  M6sque ;  the  Tin  Darwazah ; 
the  Bhadr  Azam  Khan's  palace ;  Sidi 
Sayyad's  Mosque ;  Ahmad  Shah's 
Mosque  ;  Shaikh  Hasan's  Mo8(^ue ;  the 
Rani  (or  Queen's)  Mosque  in  Mirzapur; 
Muhafiz  Khan's  Mosque. 

With  a  second  morning  to  s^re,  he 
should  start  early  and  see  Sarkhej,  across 
the  river  to  the  S.  W.,  giving  himself  cU 
least  four  hours  for  the  trip.  A  second 
afternoon  could  be  devoted  to  the  Kan- 
kariya  Tank  and  Shah  'Alam,  S.  of  the 
dty,  and  perhaps  the  modem  Jain  Tem- 
ple of  Hatnising,  outside  the  Delhi  gate. 

Near  the  rly.  sta.  are  the  handsome 
lofty  minarets  and  arched  central  gate- 
way, which  are  all  that  remain  of  a 
mosque^  (1)  destroyed  in  the  struggle 
with  the  Marathas  in  1753. 

The  Jnmma  Husjid  (3),*  or  prtn^ 
dpal  mosque,  stands  near  the  centre  of 
the  city,  on  the  S.  side  of  the  main  street 
(Manik  Chauk),  a  little  E.  of  the  Three 
Gateways.  It  was  built  by  Sultan 
Ahmad  I.  (Ahmad  Shah)  in  1424.  Mr. 
Fergusson  says :  **  Though  not  remark- 
able for  its  size,  it  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  mosques  in  the  East."  The 
mosque  is  entered  from  the  N.  by  a 
flight  of  steps.  On  the  S.  is  another 
porch  leading  into  the  street,  and  on  the 
E.  is  the  enclosure,  in  which  is  the  tomb 
of  the  founder.  The  courtis  surrounded 
by  a  cloister.  To  the  W.  is  the  mosque 
proper.  On  the  threshold  of  the  main 
arch,  embedded  in  the  pavement,  lies  a 
black  slab  brought  from  Chintaman's 
Temple,  which,  according  to  Mr.  Hope, 
is  a  Jain  idol  turned  upside  down  for  the 
faithful  to  tread  on  ;  and  touching  it  on 
the  E.  is  a  white  marble  crescent,  where 
the  Imam  stands  to  pray.  In  the  right- 
hand  comer  on  entering  is  a  gallerjr, 
which  was  probably  used  for  themembers 
of  the  royal  family.  The  roof,  supported 
by  260  columns,  has  15  cupolas  with 
galleries  round  the  three  in  front.  The 
centre  cupola  \a  larger  and  much  higher 
than  the  others.  The  2  minarets  lost  half 

1  These  numbers  in  brackets  refer  to  the 
numbers  on  the  accompanying  plan. 


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ROUTE  6.      AHMEDABAD 


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their  height  in  th&  earthquake  of  16th 
Jane  1819.  They  are  now  43  ft.  high.* 
On  a  marble  slao  above  the  centre  of 
the  three  kiblahs  or  prayer-niches  are 
these  words  in  Arabic :  '  *  This  high  and 
far-stretching  mosque  was  raised  by  the 
slave  who  trusts  in  the  mercy  of  Grod, 
the  compassionate,  the  alone  to  be  wor- 
shipped.^* The  Koran  says,  "Truly 
mosques  belong  to  God,  worship  no  one 
else  with  Him. "  *  *  The  slave  who  trusts 
in  God,  the  Aider,  Nasiru'd  dunya  va 
din  Abu'l  Fath  Ahmad  Shah,  son  of  Mu- 
hammad Shah,  son  of  Sultan  Muzaffar.  '* 

Through  the  E.  gate  is  the  Tomb  of 
Alunad  Sliali  (2),  (repaired  1587). 
This  domed  building  has  a  portico  to 
the  S.  with  18  pillars.  The  windows 
are  of  perforated  stonework.  The 
central  chamber  is  86  ft.  square.  It  is 
paved  with  marble  of  different  colours. 
The  centre  cenotaph  is  that  of  Ahmad 
Shah,  the  one  to  the  W.  is  that  of  his 
son,  Muhammad  Shah,  and  that  on  the 
E.  is  that  of  his  grandson,  Kutb  Shah. 

50  yds.  to  the  E.  across  the  street  are 
the  Tombs  of  the  queens  of  Ahmad 
Shah  (2).  *  The  houses  are  so  close  that 
they  quite  shut  out  the  facade  of  the 
mausoleum,  which  is  raised  on  a  plat- 
form. In  the  facade  are  13  highly 
ornamented  carved  recesses.  Inside  is 
a  rectangular  court,  with  a  corridor 
numing  ronndit.  In  the  centre  are  eight 
large  cenotaphs  and  several  small  ones. 
The  centre  tombstone  is  of  white 
marble,  finely  carved,  and  is  the  tomb 
of  Moghlai  Bibi.  It  is  of  black  stone 
or  marble,  inlaid  with  white.  This 
building  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Ahmeda- 
bad,  but  much  out  of  repair. 

Ban!  Slpari's  Mosque  and  Tomb  (4)  * 
Me  almost  the  most  beautifiil  monu- 
loents  in  Ahmedabad.  Rani  Si^ari  was 
one  of  the  wives  of  Mahmud  Bigadah, 
*Qd  mother  of  Prince  Ahmad.  Her 
HMJeque  and  tomb  were  completed  in 
1514.  "They  are  the  first  oi  a  series 
of  buildings  more  delicately  ornate  than 
any  that  preceded."  ^  The  mosque  has 
2  minarets,  about  50  ft.  high,  having 

^  In  1781  Mr.  Forbes,  in  his  Oriental 
Mmofn,  said  of  them :  "A  circular  flight  of 
steps  led  to  a  gallery  near  the  top  of  each. 
A  little  force  at  the  arch  of  th*  upper  gallt-ry 
5*de  both  minarets  shake,  though  the  roof  of 
"»  HKMque  reroain^d  unmoved. 

^^opiefB  ATmeddbad. 

Vtfidia] 


four  compartments  tapering  up  to  the 
top.  The  roof  is  supported  by  a  row 
of  6  couiJed  pillars  with  single  ones 
behind.    The  roza,  or  tomb,  is  36  ft.  sq. 

Dastur  Khan's  Mosque  (5),  built  in 
1486  by  one  of  Mahmud  Bigadah's 
ministers.  Remark  the  open  stone 
screen-work  that  shuts  in  the  cloister 
round  the  courtyard.  In  the  gateway 
the  marks  of  shot  may  be  seen.  A  few 
yds.  to  the  E.  of  Dastur  Khan's  Mosque 
IS  Asa  BhiVs  Moundy  the  site  of  the 
fort  of  the  Bhil  chief,  from  whom  the 
town  of  Asaval  had  its  name. 

A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Jamalpur 
Gate  is  Haibat  Khan's  Mosque  (6), 
which  is  interesting  as  one  of  the  earliest 
attempts  to  combine  Mohammedan  and 
Hindu  elements.  Haibat  Khan  was 
one  of  the  noblemen  of  Ahmad  Shah's 
court.  The  mosque  is  very  plain.  The 
front  waU  is  pierced  by  three  small 
pointed  arches  some  distance  apart. 
The  minarets  are  small  and  without 
ornament,  and  rise  like  chimneys  from 
the  roof.  The  central  dome,  of  Hindu 
workmanship  and  of  great  beauty,  is 
barely  raised  above  the  others.  The 
pillars,  taken  from  different  temjles, 
display  every  variety  of  rich  ornament. 
Except  for  the  form  of  its  dome,  the 
outer  porch  would  suit  a  Hindu  temple. 

The  Tin  Darwazah,  or  Three  Gate- 
WKjs  (7),  built  by  Sultan  Ahmad  I., 
is  of  stone  richly  carved.  It  crosses 
the  main  street  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the 
Jumma  Musjid.  The  terrace  on  the 
top  of  the  gateway  was  formerly  roofed 
over,  but  was  thrown  open  in  1877. 
This  gateway  led  into  the  outer  court 
of  the  Bhadr,  known  as  the  Royal 
Square,  and  was  surrounded,  in  1638, 
by  two  rows  of  palm  trees  and  tamarinds 
(J.  A.  de  Mandelslo's  Voyages,  1662,  ^. 
76).  Facing  the  Bhadr  Gate  is  a  muni- 
cipal garden.  N.  of  the  garden  is  the 
High  School,  and  to  the  W.  the  Hema- 
bhai  Institute,  with  a  good  library  and 
newspapers  and  periodicals.  Near  it  is 
the  Mosque  of  Malik  Sha'ban,  with  an 
inscription  that  says  it  was  built  in  the 
reign  of  Kutb-ud-dm,  by  Sh'aban,  son  of 
'Imadu'l  mulk,  in  856  a.h.  =  1452  a.d. 

The  Bhadr  (8),  (pronounced  Bhud- 
der)  an  ancient  enclosure  or  citadel, 
built  by  Ahmad  Shah,^1411,  and  named 

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ftOITTB  6.      BOMBAT  TO  DfiLHt 


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after  the  goddess  Bhadra,  a  propitious 
form  of  Kali,  is  occupied  by  public 
offices.  In  the  £.  face  is  the  Palace, 
built  by  'Azam  Khan  (9),  the  23d 
Viceroy  (1635-42),  who  was  called 
Udai,  "the  white  ant,"  from  his  love 
of  building.  It  is  now  the  jaiL  Over 
the  entrance  is  a  Persian  chronogram, 
giving  the  date  1636  A.D.  The  N, 
efrdrance  to  the  Bhadr  is  very  handsome. 
The  gate  is  18  ft.  high,  under  an  arch- 
way, opening  into  a  regular  octagonal 
hail  of  great  elegance,  containing,  in 
the  upper  story,  an  arched  gallery, 
and  having  in  front  a  low  wall  of 
open-cut  stone,  each  gallery  surmounted 
by  a  cupola.  Underneath  this  hall  is 
a  fine  vaulted  chamber,  entered  by  a 
flight  of  steps  at  each  side,  with  a  reser- 
voir and  fountain  in  the  middle.  Close 
to  the  Jail  is  a  temple  to  Bhadra  Kali 
Mata.  At  the  N.E.  comer  is  Sidl  Say- 
3rad'B  Mosque  (12),*  which  forms  part 
of  the  wall ;  it  is  now  the  Mumlutdar's 
office.  Two  of  its  windows  are  filled 
with  delicate  stone  traceiy  of  tree- 
stems  and  branches  beautifully  wrought. 
Mr.  Fergusson,  who  gives  an  illustra- 
tion of  one  of  the  windows,  says  in  his 
Hist,  of  Arch. :  "  It  would  be  difficult 
to  excel  the  skill  with  which  the  vege- 
table forms  are  conventionalised  just 
to  the  extent  required  for  the  purpose. 
The  equal  spacing  also  of  the  subject 
by  the  three  ordinary  trees  and  four 
palms  takes  it  out  of  the  category  of 
direct  imitation  of  nature,  and  renders 
it  sufficiently  structural  for  its  situa- 
tion ;  but  perhaps  the  greatest  skill  is 
shown  in  the  even  manner  in  which  the 
pattern  is  spread  over  the  whole  surface. 
There  are  some  exquisite  specimens  of 
tracery  in  precious  marbles  at  Agra  and 
Delhi,  but  none  qtute  eaual  to  this." 

In  the  S.W.  corner  of  the  Bhadr  is 
Alunad  Shah's  Mosque  (10),  built  by 
him  in  1414,  20  years  before  the  Jumma 
Musjid,  being  perhaps  the  oldest  here. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  used  as  the  king's 
private  chapel.  Left  on  advancing  to- 
wards the  mosque, was  once  ttie  Ou\ji- 
Shaliid  or  store  of  Martyrs,  where  were 
buried  the  Moslems  killed  in  storm- 
ing the  town.  The  fa9ade  is  almost 
bare  of  ornament,  with  ill-designed 
pointed  arches.     Tlie  two  minarets  are 


evidently  unfinished.  The  mvnibart  or 
pulpit,  is  adorned  with  what  looks  Uke 
laurel  leaves.  The  architecture  shows 
the  first  attempts  at  building  a  Moslem 
edifice  in  what  had  been  a  Hindu  city. 
The  pillars  still  bear  Hindu  figures  and 
emblems.  The  N.  porch,  leading  into  the 
latticed  ladies'  gallery,  is  Hindu  through- 
out, and  may  be  part  of  a  temple. 

W.  of  this  mosque  is  the  Muiik  Bnij 
(11)  or  Ruby  Bastion,  built  round  the 
foundation-stone  of  the  city.  There  is  a 
small  round  tomb  in  the  yard  near  the 
collector's  office,  which  is  said  to  be  that 
of  Ibrahim  Euli  Khan,  a  Persian  warrior. 

Shah  Wajihu-din's  Tomb  (13).  baUt 
by  Saiyad  Murtaza  Khan  Bokhari,  11th 
Viceroy,  1606-1609,  is  a  very  beautiful 
monument. 

Bayyad  'Alam's  Mosque  (14),  built 
about  1420  by  Abubakr  HusainL  The 
inner  details  are  as  rich  as  Hindu  art 
could  make  them.  S.  of  this  170 
yds.  is 

The  Bani  Musjid  (Queen's  Mosque) 
(15)  in  Mirzajmr^  a  few  yds.  to  the  S. 
of  the  D.B.,  built  probably  in  Sultan 
Ahmad  I.'s  reign.  There  are  two 
minarets,  unfinished  or  partly  destroyed 
by  an  earthquake,  and  now  only  33  ft 
high.  The  roof  has  three  domes,,  and 
is  supported  by  36  plain  pillars.  To 
the  N.E.  of  the  mosque  is  the  roza  or 
tomb  (restored).  Under  the  dome  are 
two  cenotaphs  of  white  marble ;  the 
central  one  is  the  tomb  of  Rupavati,  a 
princess  of  Dhar.  It  is  in  good  preserva- 
tion, while  that  on  the  W.  side  is 
much  injured ;  both  are  ornamented 
with  the  chain  and  censer,  a  Hindu 
device.  Mr.  Fergusson  has  given  a 
plan  of  this  mosque,  and  says,  *'The 
lower  part  of  the  minaret  is  of  pure 
Hindu  architecture.  We  can  follow 
the  progress  of  the  development  of  this 
form  from  the  first  rude  attempt  in  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  through  all  its  stages 
to  the  exquisite  patterns  of  the  Queen's 
Mosque  at  Mirzapur." 

The  Mosque  of  Sbaik  Hasan  Mu- 
hammad CUshti  in  ShaApur  (16)  is  in 
the  N.W.  angle  of  the  city,  not  far  from 
the  Sabarmati,  1665  a.d.  The  minarets 
are  unfinished.  ''The  tracery  in  the 
niches  of  their  bases  is  perhaps  superior 
to  any  other  in  the  city."    On  the  S.  or 


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left  side  of  tlie  central  arch  is  a  Persian 
quatrain.  This  chronogram  gives  the 
date  1566  a.d. 

N.  of  the  city  is  the  Mosque  of 
Huhafiz  Khan  (17),  which  is  350  yds. 
to  the  £.  of  the  D.B.,  and  was  hnilt  in 
1465  hy  Jamal-nd-din  Muhafiz  Khan, 
governor  of  the  city  in  1471  under 
Mahmud.  Begadah.  It  is  the  best  pre- 
served of  all  the  mosques ;  and  Hope 
says,  "its  details  are  exquisite,"  and 
he  considers  that  the  minarets  of  this 
mosque  and  those  of  Rani  Sipari  ''sur- 
pass those  of  Cairo  in  beauty."  ^ 

S.  of  this  mosque  is  the  modem  Swami 
Narayan's  Temple  (18),  finishedin  1850. 
It  has  an  octagonal  dome,  supported  on 
12  pillars,  and  is  a  fine  builcung. 

Close  to  it  is  the  Panjrapol  or  Asylum 
for  AnirnaZs,  The  enclosure  is  sur- 
rounded by  sheds  where  about  800 
animals  are  lodged.  There  is  also  a 
room  where  insects  are  fed.  Close  to 
the  S.  of  it  are  nine  tombs,  each  18  ft. 
3  in.  long,  called  the  Nau  Oaz  Firs, 
"the  Nine  Yard  Saints."  They  are 
most  likely  the  tombs  of  a  number  of 
men  killed  in  some  battle. 

The  Mosque,  Tomb,  and  College  of 
Shuja'at  Khan.— This  mosque  has  two 
slender  minarets  and  is  divided  by 
piers  into  five  bays,  and  over  the  kiblah 
are  written  the  creed  and  date =1695. 
The  walls,  up  to  6  ft.,  are  lined  with 
marble.  The  tomb  is  of  brick,  with  a 
marble  floor,  much  destroyed.  It  is  called 
both  the  Marble  and  the  Ivoiy  Mosque. 

Ahmedabad  is  celebrated  for  its 
Handicraftsmen  —  goldsmiths,  j ewel- 
lers,  etc.,  who  carry  the  cJiopped  form 
of  jewellery  (the  finest  archaic  jewellery 
in  India)  to  the  highest  perfection ; 
copper  and  brass-workers,  as  instanced 
particularly  in  the  very  graceful  and 
delicate  brass  screens  and  pandans 
(spice -boxes) ;  carpenters,  who  have 
long^  been  famous  for  their  superior 
carving  in  shisham,  or  mongrel  black- 
wood,  of  which  the  finest  specimens 
are  to  be  found  here ;  stone-masons, 
lacquer -worjkers,  carvers  in  ivory, — 
also  for  the  manufacture  of  **  Bombay 
boxes "  ;  mock  ornaments  for  idols  ; 
leather  shields ;  cotton  cloth  (4  monster 
tteam-factories) ;  calico-printing,  gold- 


steam-factories) :  calico-printing,  gold- 
figured  silks,  and  gold  and  silver  tissues ; 
kincobSf  or  brocades  (the  noblest  pro- 
duced in  India) ;  gold  and  silver  lace 
and  thread,  and  aS  manner  of  tinsel 
ornaments. 

Its  industrial  importance  is  shown  by 
the  fact  that  "the  Nagar-Seth,  or  city 
lord,  of  Ahmedabad  is  the  titular  head 
of  all  the  Guilds  and  the  highest  person- 
age in  the  citv,  and  is  treated  as  its 
representative  Dy  the  Government."  ^ 

Carpets  have  also  become  a  speciality 
of  Ahmedabad,  and  the  manufactories, 
as  well  as  the  workshops  of  the  other 
crafts  are  well  worth  visiting. 

Environs.— For  12  m.  round  Ahme- 
dabad the  country  is  full  of  interesting 
ruins ;  but  here  only  the  principal  can 
be  mentioned.  Just  outside  the  Delhi 
Gate,  rt.  of  the  road,  is  the  Hathi  Sing's 
Temple  (19),*  a  modem  building,  sur- 
mounted by  53  pagoda  domes.  This 
and  a  rest-house  and  family  mansion 
close  by  were  finished  in  1848,  at  a  cost 
of  1,000,000  rs.  The  dimensions  or 
this  temple  are  of  the  first  order ;  its 
style  the  pure  Jain ;  and  it  stands  a 
convincing  proof  that  the  native  archi 
tecture  has  not  been  extinguished  by 
centuries  of  repression.  In  its  sculp- 
tures may  be  seen  representations  oi 
the  24  holy  men,  or  Tirthankars,  and 
hundreds  of  other  images,  all  similar, 
but  each  labelled  on  the  base  with  the 
emblem  of  some  distinct  Jain.  The 
entrance  is  from  a  courtyard  surrounded 
by  a  corridor,  where  woollen  slippers 
are  provided,  before  ascending  a  portico 
richly  carved  and  supported  by  pillars. 
The  Temple  consists  of  an  outer  and  an 
inner  chamber,  both  paved  with  coloured 
marbles  chiefly  from  Makran  in  Rajpu- 
tana:  in  the  latter  istheimageof  Dharm- 
nath,  who  is  represented  as  a  beautiful 
youth,  with  a  sparkling  tiara  of  imitation 
diamonds.  Mr.  Fergusson says:  "Each 
part  increases  in  dignity  to  the  sanctu- 
ary. The  exterior  expresses  the  interior 
more  completely  than  even  a  Gothic 
design,  and,  whether  looked  at  from  its 
courts  or  from  the  outside,  it  possesses 
variety  without  confusion,  and  an  ap- 
propriateness of  every  part  to  the  pur- 

1  See  also  Burgess,  ArcMteoture  Of 
Ahmadabad. 

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Ind/ia 


pose  intended.'*  N.W.  of  this  is  the 
ruined  Tomb  of  Daxya  Khan  (20), 
1453,  minister  of  Mahmud  Shah  Begada. 
The  dome  is  9  ft.  thick,  and  the  largest 
in  Guzerat.  Not  far  beyond  it  is  the 
Chota  or  small  Shahi  Bagh,  of  no 
architectural  interest,  now  a  private 
house,  where  it  is  said  the  ladies  of  the 
royal  harem  lived.  Across  the  railway 
line  is  the  Shahi  Bagh,  a  very  fine 
garden-house,  now  the  residence  of  the 
Commissioner  of  the  Division.  A  sub- 
terranean passage  is  said  to  communicate 
between  the  two  places.  The  building 
was  erected  in  1622  by  Shah  Jehan, 
when  Viceroy  of  Ahmedabad,  to  give 
work  to  the  poor  during  a  season  of 
scarcity.  In  the  16th  century  this  was 
the  great  resort  for  the  people  of  the 
city.  The  Shahi  Bagh  is  close  to  the 
railway  bridge  over  the  Sabarmati, 
which  river  it  overlooks.  Half  a  m. 
S.  W.  of  the  Shahi  Bagh  is  Miyan  Khan 
Chisti's  Mosqne  (22),  built  in  1465  by 
Malik  Maksud  Yazir ;  and  }  m.  more  to 
the  S.W.  is  Achat  Bibi's  Mosqne  (21), 
built  in  1469,  by  *Imadu*l  mulk,  one  of 
Begada's  ministers,  for  his  wife  Bibi 
Achut  Kuki,  whose  tomb  is  close  by. 
There  were  seven  minarets  here,  all  of 
which  were  thrown  down  in  the  earth- 
quake of  1819.  Returning  from  this 
point,  the  traveller  may  drive  to  the 
N.E.  side  of  the  city,  to  Asarva,  which 
is  about  J  m.  N.E.  of  the  Daryapur 
Gate,  where  are  the  Wells  of  Dada  Hari 
(23)*  and  Mata  Bhawani.  The  real 
name  of  Dada  is  said  by  the  local  people 
to  have  been  Halim,  "  mild,"  and  they 
call  him  Dada  Hari.  He  is  said  to  have 
been  the  husband  of  the  Dai,  or  Nurse 
of  one  of  the  Kings.  There  is  an  ascent 
from  the  road  to  the  platform  which 
surrounds  the  well's  mouth.  A  domed 
portico,  supported  by  12  pillars,  gives 
entrance  to  3  tiers  of  finely  constructed 
galleries  below  ground,  which  lead  to  the 
octagonal  well,  and  inscriptions  in 
Sanscrit  and  Arabic  The  well  beyond 
the  octagonal  one  has  pillars  round  it, 
and  a  fence  wall.  Beyond  this  is  a 
circular  well  for  irrigation.  A  very 
narrow  staircase  leads  to  the  level 
ground,  where  by  the  side  of  the  well 
are  two  stone  mandaps.  About  50  yds. 
to  the  W.  is  Dada  Hari^s  Mosque,  one 


of  the  best  decorated  buildings  at 
Ahmedabad,  though  no  marble  is  em- 
ployed. The  stone  is  of  a  dull  reddish- 
gray  colour.  The  bases  of  the  two 
minarets  are  richly  carved.  A  portion 
of  them  was  thrown  down  by  the  earth- 
quake of  1819.  To  the  N.  is  the  Rom 
of  Dada  Hari  or  Halim,  The  N.  door 
is  exquisitely  carved,  but  the  inside  is 
quite  plain. 

Hata  BhawaJtti  (24).— This  we41  is 
about  100  yds.  N.  of  Dada  Hari's,  but 
is  much  older,  and  is  thought  to  be  of 
the  time  of  Karan,  when  Ahmedabad 
was  called  Karanavati.  The  descent 
to  the  water  from  the  platform  is  by 
52  steps  and  pillared  galleries  as  at 
Dada  Hari.  The  porticoes  are  qnite 
plain,  and  the  well  is  altogether  inferior 
to  that  of  Dada  Hari. 

Most  of  the  houses  in  the  Madhavpura 
suburb  are  warehouses,  and  it  is  the 
great  business  quarter.  Saraspur  is  a 
distinct  walled  town,  the  largest  of  the 
suburbs.  It  is  E.  of  the  rly.  station. 
In  this  suburb  is  the  Jain  Temple  of 
Chintaman  (25),  restored  in  1868  by 
Shantidas,  a  rich  merchant,  at  a  cost 
of  900,000  rs.  Aurangzib  defiled  it  by 
having  a  cow's  throat  cut  in  it^  and, 
breaking  the  images,  changed  it  into  a 
mosque.  The  Jains  petitioned  the  Em- 
peror Shah  Jehan,  who  ordered  his  son 
to  repair  and  restore  the  temple.  But 
in  1666  Thevenot  speaks  of  it  as  a 
mosque  ( VoyageSy  v.  p.  28). 

J  m.  S.E.  of  the  Raipur  Gate  is 
the  Hauz-i-Kutb,  generally  called  the 
Kankariya  Lake  (26),  or  Pebble  Lake. 
This  reservoir,  one  of  the  largest  of 
its  kind  in  this  part  of  India,  is  a 
regular  polygon  of  34  sides,  each  side 
190  ft.  long,  the  whole  being  more  than 
1  m.  round.  The  area  is  72  acres.  It 
was  constructed  by  Sultan  Kutb-ud-din 
in  1451,  and  was  then  surrounded  by 
many  tiers  of  cut-stone  steps,  with  six 
sloping  approaches,  flanked  by  cupolas 
and  an  exquisitely  carved  water-sluice. 
In  the  centre  was  an  island,  with  a  gar- 
den called  Nagina  or  the  Gem,  and  a 
pavilion  called  Ghattamandal.  In  1872 
Mr.  Borrodaile,  the  collector,  repaired 
the  building,  and  made  a  road  to  the 
Rajpur  Gate.  On  the  E.  bank  of  the 
lake  are  some  Dutch  and  Armenian 

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tombs,  Saracenic  in  style,  with  domes 
uid  pillars.  They  are  a  good  deal 
rained.  The  dates  range  from  1641  to 
1689. 

Sarkhej  is  6  m.  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
Jamalpore  Gate,  whence  a  dumnif  or 
covered  cart  on  springs,  with  a  good 
horse,  will  take  two  people  comfortably 
in  an  hour.  The  start  must  be  made 
ia  the  early  morning.  The  road  crosses 
the  Sabimnati  river,  the  channel  of 
which  is  about  ^  m.  broad,  but  the  water 
in  the  dry  weather  is  little  more  than 
2  ft  deep.  The  river-bed  during  the 
day  \B  one  of  the  most  interesting  sights 
in  Ahmedabad.  The  sand  is  dotted 
with  enclosures  for  the  cultivation  of 
mdons,  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables, 
and  the  running  water  is  lined  with 
gailv- dressed  women  washing  their 
clothes.  Garments  of  every  shape  and 
of  the  brightest  colours  are  laid  out  to 
dry.  These  persons  are  not  profes- 
sional washerwomen,  but  belong  to 
manv  classes  of  society.  The  remains 
of  a  bridge  will  be  seen  near  the  cross- 
ing; both  it  and  the  railway  bridge 
were  carried  away  by  the  great  flood  in 
1875,  but  tiie  latter  was  at  once  restored. 
Near  the  bridge  the  city  wall  is  from 
iO  to  60  ft  high.  The  road  from  the 
river's  bank  is  good,  with  rich  fields 
on  either  side,  and  at  !{  m.  rt.  is  the 
massive  brick 

Mausoleum  of  'Aiam  and  Mozam, 
bnilt  probably  in  1457.  These  brothers 
are  said  to  have  been  the  architects  of 
Sarkhej,  and  to  have  come  from  Ehor- 
asan.  The  immense  structure  which 
contains  their  tombs  is  raised  on  a 
platform.  About  800  yds.  from  the 
principal  buildings  at  Sarkhej  there 
are  two  brick  towers  about  30  ft.  high, 
the  bases  of  which,  close  to  the  ground, 
have  been  so  dug  awav  that  it  seems  a 
miracle  they  do  not  fall.  After  another 
200  yds.,  the  road  passes  under  two 
arches,  leading  into  the  courtyard  of 
Sarkhej.  To  the  left  on  entering  is 
the  fine  mausoleum  of  Mahmud  Big^ah 
and  his  sons,  and  connected  with  it 
by  a  beautiful  portico  another  equally 
magnificent  tomb  on  the  border  of  the 
tank  for  his  queen  B&jabai.  To  the  rt 
is  the  Tomb  of  the  Saint  Shaik  Ahmc^ 
KhaUu  Qwnj  BakJuh,  called  also  Magh- 


rabi.  Ganj  Bakhsh  lived  at  Anhalwada, 
and  was  the  spuitual  guide  of  Sultan 
Ahmad  I.,  and  a  renowned  Moham- 
medan saint;  he  retired  to  Sarkhej, 
and  died  there  in  1445  at  the  age  of  111. 
This  magnificent  tomb  and  mosque 
were  erected  to  his  memorv.  The  tomb 
is  the  largest  of  its  kind  in  Guzerat, 
and  has  a  great  central  dome  and  many 
smaller  ones.  Over  the  central  door  of 
the  tomb  is  a  Persian  auatrain.  It  gives 
the  date  1473  A.  D.  The  shrine  inside  is 
octagonal,  surrounded  by  finely- worked 
brass  lattice-windows.  The  pavement 
is  of  coloured  marbles,  and  the  dome 
inside  richly  gilt, — from  it  hangs  a 
long  silver  chain  which  once  reached 
to  the  ground.  The  vast  ac^oining 
Mosque  is  the  perfection  of  elegant  sim- 
plicity: it  has  10  cupolas  supported 
on  18  pillars.  The  whole  of  these 
buildings,  says  Mr.  Fergusson,  '*are 
constructed  without  a  single  arch  ;  all 
the  pillars  have  the  usual  bracket 
capitals  of  the  EEindus,  and  all  the 
domes  are  on  the  horizontal  principle." 
S.  of  the  saint's  tomb  is  that  of  his 
disciple  Shaik  Salahu-din. 

Mahmud  Begurra  excavated  the  great 
tank  of  17i  acres,  surrounded  it  by 
flights  of  stone  steps,  constructed  a 
richly -decorated  supply -sluice,  and 
built  at  its  S.W.  comer  a  splendid 
palace  and  harem  (now  in  ruins). 

With  the  lake,  the  Sarkhej  buildings 
form  the  most  beautiful  group  in  Ahme- 
dabad. They  belong  to  the  best  period 
of  the  style,  and  have  the  special  in- 
terest of  being  almost  purely  Hindu, 
with  only  the  faintest  trace  of  the 
Mohammedan  style.  Numbers  of 
people  bathe  in  the  tank  in  spite  of  the 
alligators.  A  little  S.  of  the  lake  is 
the  tomb  of  Baba  Ali  Sher,  a  saint  even 
more  venerated  than  Ganj  Bakhsh.  It 
is  small,  ugly,  and  whitewashed.  Close 
by  are  the  remains  of  Mirza  Ehan 
^anan*s  Garden  of  Victory,  laid  out 
in  1584  after  his  defeat  of  Muzafiar 
III.,  the  last  Ahmedabad  king.  In 
the  17th  century  Sarkhej  was  so  famous 
for  indigo,  that  in  1620  the  Dutch 
established  a  faotorv  there. 

From  Ahmedabaa  another  expedition 
may  be  made  to  Batwa,  which  is  almost 
5  m.  due  S.  of  the  Bajpur  Gate.    Here 

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India 


Burhanu-din  Eutbu  '1-Alam,  the  grand- 
son of  a  famous  saint  buried  at  Uch  on 
theSutlej,  is  interred.  He  came  to  the 
court  of  Sultan  Ahmad  I.,  settled  at 
Batwa,  and  died  there  in  1452.  A 
vast  mausoleum  of  fine  design  and 
proportions  was  erected  to  his  memory. 
It  resembles  the  buildings  at  Sarkhej, 
but  the  aisles  are  arched  and  vaulted, 
and  the  dome  is  raised  by  a  second 
tier  of  arches.  The  workmanship  is 
most  elaborate,  but  the  building  is 
unfortunately  much  out  of  repair. 
Adjoining  it  are  a  mosque  and  tank. 

The  tomb  of  Shah  Alam  is  2  m. 
S.E.  of  the  town  on  the  Batwa  road. 
Before  reaching  the  tomb  the  road 
passes  under  two  plain  ^teways,  and 
then  through  one,  with  a  Nakar  Khana 
(music  gallery)  above  the  archway,  and 
so  into  a  vast  court.  To  the  W.  is  the 
mosque,  which  has  two  minarets  of 
seven  stories,  handsomely  carved  and 
about  90  ft.  high.  The  tomb  of  Shah 
'Alam,  who  was  the  son  of  the  saint 
buried  at  Batwa,  is  to  the  E.,  and  is 
protected  by  metal  lattices :  he  was  the 
spiritual  guide  of  Mahmud  Begadah,  and 
died  in  1495.  To  the  S.  is  an  assembly 
hall  built  by  Muzaffar  III.  (1561-72), 
and  partly  destroyed  by  the  British  in 
1780  to  furnish  materials  for  the  siege 
of  the  city.  The  tomb  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  Taj  Khan  Nariali,  one  of 
Mahmud's  courtiers.  Early  in  the  17th 
century  Asaf  Khan,  brother  of  the 
Empress  Nur  Jehan,  adorned  the  dome 
with  gold  and  precious  stones.  The 
floor  of  the  tomb  is  inlaid  with  black 
and  white  marble,  the  doors  are  of  open 
brass  work,  and  the  frame  in  which 
they  are  set,  as  well  as  what  shows  be- 
tween the  door-frame  and  the  two  stone 
pillars  to  the  .right  and  left  is  of  pure 
white  marble  beautifully  carved  and 
pierced.  The  tomb  itself  is  enclosed 
by  an  inner  wall  of  pierced  stone.  The 
outer  wall  in  the.N.  is  of  stone  trellis- 
work  of  the  most  varied  design,  and 
here  Shaik  Kabir,  renowned  for  his 
learning,  who  died  in  1618,  is  buried. 
The  mosque  was  built  by  Muhammad 
Salih  Badakbshi.  The  minarets  were 
begun  by  Nizabat  Khan,  and  finished 
by  Saif  Khan.  They  were  much 
damaged  by  the  earthquake  of  1819, 


but  have  been  repaired,  and  are  now 
in  good  order.  To  the  S.  of  the  mosque 
is  a  tomb  like  that  of  the  cMef 
mausoleum  where  the  family  of  Shah 
'Alam  are  buried.  Outside  the  wall 
to  the  W.  is  a  reservoir,  built  by  the 
wife  of  Taj  Khan  Nariali. 

Another  day  may  be  spent  in  visiting 
the  Monastery  of  Piraruiy  which  is  at 
the  village  of  Giramtha,  9  m.  S.  of 
Ahmedabad.  The  mausoleums  are 
those  of  Imam  Shah,  Nurshah,  Surab- 
hai,  Bala  Muhammad,  and  Bakir  *A1L 
The  legend  is  that  Imam  Shah  came 
from  Persia  in  1449,  and  performed 
certain  miracles,  which  induced  Mu- 
hammad II.  to  give  him  his  daughter 
in  marriage.  On  the  anniversary  of 
Imam  Shah's  death  a  fair  is  held, 
attended  by  many  Hindus. 

There  are  many  other  interesting 
ruins  near  Ahmedabad,  but  these  are 
the  principal,  and  to  see  all  would  take 
months. 


Leaving  Ahmedabad,  the  railway 
crosses  the  Sabarmati  river  quite  close 
to  the  Shah-i-bagh  on  a  fine  bridge, 
which  carries  the  rails  for  both  gauges 
and  a  footway  on  one  side. 

At  314  m.  Sabarmati  junc  sta.  the 
narrow  gauge  continues  N.  to  Delhi, 
whilst  the  broad  gauge  turns  W.  for 
Wadhwan  and  Kattywar  (Rte.  7). 
The  new  Jail  here  is  one  of  the  largest 
in  the  Presidency. 

The  country  going  N.  is  flat  and 
well  cultivated.  The  beautiful  and 
celebrated  well  at  Adalaj  is  in  this 
direction,  but  can  perhaps  be  more 
easily  visited  by  road. 

350  m.  Hehsana  junc.  sta.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  important  railway 
centres  in  Guzerat,  as  it  is  the  junction 
for  three  branch  lines  constructed  by 
the  Gaekwar  of  Baroda.  They  are: 
(1)  a  line  passing  through  Visna^^ar, 
Vadnagar,  and  Kheralo,  total  distance 
27  m.,  general  direction  N.E.  ;  (2) 
a  line  to  Patan,  the  historic  capital  of 
Guzerat,   distance  24  m.  N.W. ;    (8) 

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a  line  to  "nramgam,  40  m.  S.W., 
made  to  connect  the  Rajputana  and 
Eattywar  metre-gauge  lines  of  railway. 
(For  Yiramgam  see  p.  162.) 

On  these  branch  lines  two  places 
only  Deed  be  noticed  here. 

[Vadnairur,  21  m.  N.E.  (pop. 
15,941).  This  place,  once  very  import- 
ant, is  stated  to  have  been  conquered 
by  a  Rajput  prince  from  Ayodhya  in 
145  A.B.  It  probably  occupies  the 
site  of  Anandpura,  known  in  local 
history  since  226  a.d.  There  are  some 
interesting  ruins,  and  the  Temple  of 
Hatkeshvar  Mcbhixdeo  is  worth  a  visit. 
It  is  now  the  religious  capital  of  the 
Nagar  Brahmans,  a  most  influential 
class  of  men  in  Guzerat  and  Kattywar. 
It  was  long  the  chartered  refuge  of  the 
Dhinoj  Brahmans,  a  class  of  robbers 
who  were  protected  and  taxed  by  suc- 
cessive native  governments  down  to 
quite  a  recent  date. 

Patau,  24  m.  N.W.  of  Mehsana 
(pop.  32,646).  The  city  stands  on  the 
site  of  the  ancient  Anhilvada,  capital 
of  the  Hindu  kings  of  Guzerat :  it  was 
taken  by  Mahmud  of  Ghazni  on  his 
way  to  attack  the  temple  of  Somnath 
in  1024  A.D.  The  site  for  generations 
has  been  a  quarrv  whence  beautiful 
carved  stones  haveWn  carried  to  other 
places.  It  is  still  famous  for  its 
libraries  of  Jain  MSS.  There  are  no 
less  than  108  Jain  temples  here.] 

Kadi  the  N.  division  of  Baroda  in 
which  Sidhpur  is  situated  is  the  only 
part  of  the  whole  of  the  Bombay  Presi- 
dency in  which  Poppies  are  allowed  to 
be  grown.  The  opium  is  manufactured 
in  Sidhpur  at  the  State  Stores, 

866  m.  IJnjha  sta.  A  town  in  the 
Baroda  territory  of  11,287  inhab.  and 
headquarters  of  the  Kadwakanbis, 
a  peculiar  caste  of  agriculturists. 
Marriages  among  them  take  place  but 
once  in  11  years,  when  every  girl  over 
40  days  old  must  be  married  on  one  or 
other  of  the  days  fixed.  Should  no 
husband  be  found,  a  proxy  bridegroom 
is  sometimes  set  up  and  married  to  a 
number  of  girls  who  immediately  enter 
a  state  of  nominal  widowhood  until  an 


eligible  suitor  presents  himself,  when 
a  second  marriage  takes  place. 

374  m.  Sidhpur  sta.  (pop.  16,224). 
It  stands  on  the  steep  nortnem  bank 
of  the  Sarasvati  river,  and  the  scene  in 
the  bed  of  the  river  during  the  day  in 
the  dry  weather  is  specially  gay.  The 
place  is  of  extreme  antiquity,  and  con- 
tains the  ruins  of  Rvdra  Mala^  one  of 
the  most  famous  ancient  temples  in  W. 
India.  It  was  wrecked  by  Ala-ud-din 
Khilji  in  1297  ;  and  much  of  it  has  been 
carried  off  since  for  building  purposes. 
The  stones  are  gigantic,  and  the  carving 
superb,  but  very  little  of  it  remains. 
A  row  of  small  temples  is  converted  into 
a  mosque.  The  more  modem  temples 
are  very  numerous. 

393  m.  Palanpnr  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
The  chief  town  of  a  native  state  of  that 
name,  the  residence  of  a  Political  Agent. 
[Rly.  N.W.  to  the  military  station  of 
Deesa  on  the  K  Banas  18  m.  dis- 
tant.] 

425  m.  Abu  Boadsta.3^  (R.),  D.B. 
This  is  a  well-built,  attractive-looking 
place.  Mount  Abu  looking  down  on  it 
from  the  N.W. 

[The  excursion  to  Mount  Abu  is 
one  of  the  most  interesting  in  India, 
more  especially  on  account  of  the  Jain 
temples.  The  ascent  to  it,  16^  m.,  is 
by  a  very  good  road,  fit  for  light- 
wheeled  traffic  for  about  5  or  6  m., 
through  delightful  scenery,  with  fine 
views  across  a  wide  valley  towards  Achil- 
ghar.  Thence  by  pony  or  rickshaw 
(about  4  J  hrs.)  to  the  top  of  the  mount. 
Although  regarded  as  part  of  the  Ara- 
valli  range,  Abu  is  completely  detached 
from  that  chain  by  a  valley  about  15  m. 
wide.  The  plateau  at  the  top  is  about 
14  m.  by  4  m.,  and  varies  m  height 
from  4000  to  5600  ft.* 

1  The  traveller  should  arrange  to  arrive  at 
Abu  Road  sta.  by  a  morning  train,  when 
he  will  have  time  to  arrange  for  the  trip  up 
to  Mount  Abu  in  the  evening  (having  pre- 
viously written  or  telegraphed  to  secure  rooms 
there  at  the  small  hotel),  allowing  himself 
about  6  hours'  daylight  for  the  journey.  The 
temples  can  be  seen  before  noon  the  following 
day,  tlie  light  luggage  started  downhill  before 


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Mount  ABUsOc  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  Rajputana  administration,  and  the 
residence  of  vakils  or  agents  from  a 
large  number  of  native  states.  It  is  also 
a  sanitarium  for  European  troops  and 
favourite  hot -weather  resort  m  the 
summer  season. 

The  height  of  the  civil  and  military 
station  is  4000  ft. ;  the  highest  point  is 
in  the  northern  end. 

At  the  Headquarters  are  the  Resi- 
dency, Churchy  Lawreivce  Asylwm  Schools 
for  children  of  soldiers,  Barracks^  Club, 
Bazaar  of  native  shops,  a  considerable 
number  of  private  houses  on  the  margin 
of  the  Gem  Lake^  a  most  charming  piece 
of  artificial  water  studded  with  islands, 
and  overhung  by  a  curious  rock  that 
looks  like  a  gigantic  toad  about  to 
spring  into  the  water.  The  Railway 
Schools  for  children  are  outside  the 
station  on  the  plateau.  The  surface  of 
Mount  Abu  is  very  much  broken  up,  so 
that  the  carriage  roads  are  very  few, 
but  there  are  plenty  of  bridle-roads  and 
picturesque  footpaths. 

The  Dilwaxra  Temples,  the  great 
attraction  of  Mt.  Abu,  are  reached  by  a 
good  bridle-path  (2m.)  A  pass  to  visit 
them  is  necessary. 

When  Europeans  first  settled  at  Abu 
the  temples  were  unguarded  and  open 
to  all  comers,  and  were  frequently  mis- 
used by  the  lower  classes  of  all  races. 
They  owe  their  improved  condition  to 
the  exertions  of  educated  European 
officers,  a  fact  the  custodians  sometimes 
forget  in  their  conduct  towards  visitors. 
In  spite  of  ill  usage  and  some  very  bad 
restoration,  the  Dilwan-a  temples  are 
very  beautiful,  and  find  a  fitting  frame- 
work in  their  nest  of  mango  trees,  with 
green  fields  of  barley  waving  at  their 
feet,  and  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  the 
everlasting  hills. 

"The  more  modem  of  the  two 
temples  was  built  by  the  same  brothers, 
Tejahpala  and  YastupaJa,  who  erected 
the  triple  temple  at  Gimar.  This  one,  we 
learn  from  inscriptions,  was  erected 
between  1197  and  1247,  and  for  minute 
delicacy  of  carving  and  beauty  of  detail 
stands  almost  unrivalled,  even  in  the 
breakfast,  the  visitor  following  in  the  after- 
^,V°/'"^®.  ^  ,1***^^  **»e  evening  train.  It 
will  he  found  cold  at  Abu  in  winter, 


land  of  patient  and  lavish  labour.  It 
is  said  to  have  taken  14  years  to  build, 
and  to  have  cost  18,000,000  rs.  besides 
56  lakhs  spent  in  levelling  the  hill  on 
which  it  stands. 

**The  other,  built  by  another  mer- 
chant prince,  Vimala  Sah,  apparently 
about  1032  A.D.,  is  simpler  and  bolder, 
though  still  as  elaborate  as  good  taste 
woula  allow  in  any  purely  ardiitectural 
object.  Being  one  of  the  oldest  as  well 
as  one  of  the  most  complete  examples 
known  of  a  Jain  temple,  its  peculiar- 
ities form  a  convenient  introduction  to 
the  style,  and  serve  to  illustrate  how 
complete  and  perfect  it  had  already 
become  when  we  first  meet  with  it  in 
India. 

"The  principal  object  here,  as  else- 
where, is  a  cell  lighted  only  from  the 
door,  containing  a  cross-legged  seated 
figure  of  the  saint  to  whom  the  temple 
is  dedicated,  in  this  instance  Pars- 
wanatha.  The  cell  terminates  upwards 
in  a  sikra,  or  pyramidal  spire-like  roof, 
which  is  common  to  all  Hindu  and 
Jain  temples  of  the  age  in  the  north 
of  India.  To  this  is  attached  a  jwrtico 
composed  of  48  free-standing  pillars ; 
and  the  whole  is  enclosed  in  an  oblong 
courtyard,  about  140  ft.  by  90  ft,  sur- 
rounded by  a  double  colonnade  of 
smaller  pillars,  forming  porticoes  to  a 
ran^  or  55  cells,  which  enclose  it  on 
all  sides,  exactly  as  they  do  in  Buddhist 
viharas.  In  this  case,  however,  each 
cell,  instead  of  being  the  residence  of  a 
monk,  is  occupied  by  one  of  those  cross- 
legged  images  which  belong  alike  to 
Buddhism  and  Jainism.  Here  they 
are,  according  to  the  Jain  practice,  all 
repetitions  of  the  same  image  of  Pars- 
wanatha,  and  over  the  door  of  each 
coll,  or  on  its  jambs,  are  sculptured 
scenes  from  his  life.  The  long  beams, 
stretching  from  pillar  to  pillar,  sup- 
porting the  roof,  are  relieved  by  curious 
angular  struts  of  white  marble,  spring- 
ing from  the  middle  of  the  pillar  up  to 
the  middle  of  the  beam  "  (Fergusson). 

Aohilghar  is  reached  by  following 
the  bridle-path  past  Dilwarra  for  about 
4  m.,  when  the  village  of  Uria  is  reached, 
where  there  is  a  bungalow.  From  this 
turn  r.  along  a  bad  track  for  another 
1  m.  to  the  first  temple.    It  is  sur- 


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rounded  by  a  wall,  approached  by  a 
flight  of  steps,  and  beautifully  orna- 
mented. S.K  of  this  are  other  temples 
on  higher  ground  overlooking  the 
valley.  The  view  is  magnificent.  These 
are  the  buildings  the  traveller  has  seen 
in  ascending  the  hill.  S.  of  the  first 
temple  is  the  Agni  Kund^  a  tank  famous 
in  Hindu  mythology.  On  the  bank  is 
a  marble  image  of  Pramar  with  his 
bow,  and  near  him  three  large  stone 
buffaloes.  This  figure  is  superior  in 
style  and  treatment  to  most ;  and  the 
same  may  be  said  of  the  statues  in 
other  temples  around  the  Hill  of  Abu, 
specially  of  the  brass  figure  at  Gaumukh 
alluded  to  below.  The  Achilghar  group 
is  peiiiaps  as  attractive  as  the  more 
renowned  temples  at  Dilwarra,  though 
not  comparable  in  size  or  finish ;  but 
the  absence  of  modern  work,  and  an 
air  of  antiquity,  solidity,  and  repose, 
make  them  worthy  of  all  admiration. 

Around  Mount  Abu  in  the  plain  and 
on  the  hillside  are  many  temples,  some 
very  beautiful,  and  all  in  charming 
spots  ;  but  the  traveller  who  wishes  to 
visit  them  must  have  plenty  of  leisure 
and  be  a  good  walker,  and  must  always 
be  accompanied  by  a  guide.  It  is 
very  dangerous  to  leave  a  beaten  path 
on  the  sides  of  Abu  without  a  person 
who  knows  the  country  intimately. 

Gaumukh,  a  beautifully  situated 
temple  500  ft.  down  the  S.E  slope,  and 
3  m.  from  the  church.  Observe  the 
brass  figure  facing  the  temple. 

Rishi  KrisJiTia,  at  the  foot  of  the  hill, 
S.E.  side,  14  m.  from  the  Civil  Station, 
is  easily  visited  from  Abu  Road  rail- 
way station. 

Gautama,  on  S.  side  of  the  hill,  W. 
of  Gaumukh  ;  5  m.  from  station. 
Lovely  view. 

Devaiigan,  in  the  plain,  S.W.,  2  m. 
S.  of  Anadra,  B.D.] 

528  m.    Marwar  Railway  junc.  sta. 

[Ezcursion  to  Jodhpur. 
From  this  point  the  Jodhpur- Bikanir 
Railway  branches  £.  to  44  m.  Zt^nt  junc. 
sta.  (from  which  »  line  diverges  W.  to 
the  salt-works  at  Pachhadra,  distant 
60  m. ,  and  continues  in  N.  direction). 
Many   miles  before  reaching  Jodhpur 


the  fort  can  be  distinguished  rising 
abruptly  out  of  the  bare  plain. 

64  m.  JODHPUR  sta.,  D.B.  the  capi- 
tal of  the  Rajput  state  of  that  name,  and 
of  the  country  known  as  Marwar  Oarea, 
is  the  residence  of  the  Chief  and  of  a 
Political  Agent,  to  whom  it  is  necessary 
to  bring  an  introduction  asking  for 
permission  to  see  the  place. 

The  State  of  Jodhpur  or  Marwar 
covers  an  area  of  37,000  sq.  m.  with  a 
pop.  of  1,760,500.  The  CUy  was  built 
by  Rao  Jodha  in  1459,  and  from  that 
time  has  been  the  seat  of  government. 
It  stands  on  the  S.  extremity  of  a 
rocky  range  of  sandstone  hills  lim- 
ning E.  and  W.,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  strong  wall  nearly  6  m.  in  extent, 
with  seven  gates,  each  bearing  the 
name  of  the  town  to  which  it  leads. 
Some  of  the  houses  and  temples  in  the 
city  are  of  stone  richly  carved.  Amongst 
the  most  important  buildings  are  the 
Temple  in  tne  Dhan  Mundi  (wheat 
market)  and  the  Talati  Mai,  an  old 
palace  now  used  as  the  Darbar  High 
School. 

The  Fort  stands  up  boldly  some  300 
ft.  above  the  city  and  the  plain,  and 
presents  a  magnificent  appearance.  The 
rock  is  on  every  side  scarped,  but 
esnecially  at  the  N.  end,  where  the 
palace  is  built  on  the  edge  of  a  per- 
pendicular cliif  at  least  120  ft.  high. 
Strong  walls  and  numerous  round  and 
square  towers  encircle  the  crest  of  the 
hill.  A  modem  engineered  road  winds 
up  the  neighbouring  slopes  to  a  massive 
gateway.  Here  is  the  first  of  7  barriers 
thrown  across  the  zigzag  ascent,  having 
immense  portals  with  separate  guards 
in  each.  On  the  wall  of  the  last  are 
represented  the  hands  of  the  15  wives 
of  one  of  the  rajas  who  underwent 
saii  at  his  death. 

At  the  top  of  the  rock  are  the  highly- 
interesting  Old  Palaces,  There  are 
courtyards  within  courtyards,  all  solidly 
built  and  surrounded  by  lattice  windows 
of  the  most  delicate  and  beautiful 
designs.  Here  in  the  Treasury  are  the 
Maharaja's  jewels,  a  wonderful  collec- 
tion, and  well  worth  seeing.  Sonje  of 
the  pearls,  emeralds,  and  diamonds  are 
unusually  fine.  The  silver  trappings 
for  elephants  and  horses  should  also 

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be  noticed.  The  view  from  the  palace 
windows  is  most  interesting  and  exten- 
sive, and  shows  the  town  nestling 
under  the  huge  rock. 

There  was  formerly  great  scarcity  of 
water,  and  the  women  had  daily  to 
walk  all  le  way  to  Mandor  (see  below) 
to  fetch  it,  but  now  it  has  been  brought 
up  to  the  top  of  the  Fort  in  pipes.  The 
principal  Tanks  are— 

The  Fadcmi  Savior  Tank,  in  the 
N.W.  part  of  the  city,  excavated  out 
of  the  rock,  but  of  small  size.  In 
the  same  quarter  is  the  Hani  Satigar, 
at  the  foot  of  the  W.  entrance  into  the 
Fort,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
outworks,  and  is  chiefly  reserved  for 
the  garrison  and  ladies  residing  in  the 
Fort  The  Oulab  Saugar,  to  the  E., 
is  handsomely  built  of  stone,  and  is 
capacious,  witn  a  smaller  one  adjoining 
it.  The  Baiji  ka  TcUao,  S.  of  the  city, 
is  extensive,  but  not  capable  of  holding 
water  long.  The  modem  Sardar  Saugar^ 
on  N.E.  1  m.  W.  is  a  lake  called  Ak- 
herajji  ka  Talao^  which  is  a  fine  sheet 
of  water,  clear,  deep,  and  extensive,  re- 
sembling rather  a  natural  lake  than  an 
artificial  tank.  8  m.  K.  of  the  city  is 
the  Bal'Samandf  a  pretty  tank,  with  a 
palace  on  the  embankment  and  garden 
below,  used  by  the  Maharaja  as  a 
summer  residence.  The  Oanal  from 
it  to  the  city  is  a  work  of  much  im- 
portance. 

The  chief  Sport  near  Jodhpur  is  pig- 
sticking^  the  pigs  being  preserved  by 
the  Maharaja. 

A  great  religious  fair  is  held  here  in 
March. 

S.E.  of  the  city  are  the  Baikabag 
Palace,  where  the  late  chief  resided, 
and  the  Jubilee  Buildings  or  public 
offices  near  it,  designed  b^  Col.  Jacob. 
In  the  native  style,  with  elaborate 
detail,  they  are  extensive  and  beautiful, 
and  deserve  attention. 

The  Palace  of  the  present  chief  is 
further  S. 

The  Public  Gairdens,  and  fine  stone 
houses  of  the  officials,  have  now  re- 
placed the  barren  tract  that  formerly 
touched  the  city  walls  on  the  S.  side. 
These,  and  many  other  improvements, 
are  due  to  the  Prime  Minister,  Sir 
Partob  Sing,  G.C.S.I. 


At  about  i  m.  outside  the  N.K  an^e 
of  the  city  is  a  suburb  of  800  houses, 
called  the  Maha  Mandlr,  or  *'sreat 
temple."  The  roof  of  the  temple  is 
supported  by  100  pillars,  and  the  in- 
terior is  richly  decorated.  This  suburb 
is  defended  by  a  stone  wall,  with  a  few 
weak  bastions.  In  it  are  two  palaces, 
in  one  of  which  the  spiritual  adviser  of 
the  late  Maharaja  lives.  The  other 
is  reserved  for  the  spirit  of  his  prede- 
cessor, whose  bed  is  laid  out  in  a  state 
chamber,  with  a  golden  canopy  over 
the  pillow ;  and  has  no  living  occupant 
The  priests,  called  NatJis,  have  lost 
nearly  all  their  former  prestige. 

Majidor. — This  was  the  capital  of 
Marwar  before  the  foundation  of  Jodh- 
pur. It  is  situated  about  8  m.  to  the 
N.  of  Jodhpur.  Here  are  the  CfhaUris, 
or  cenotaphs  (much  neglected),  of  the 
former  rulers,  erected  on  the  spots 
where  the  funeral  pyres  consumed  their 
remains.  Some  are  fine  massive  build- 
ings,— that  dedicated  to  AjU  Sing,  d. 
1724,  being  the  largest  and  finest. 
These  *  *  proud  monuments, "  as  Tod  calls 
them,^  are  built  of  *'a  close-grained 
freestone  of  a  dark  brown  or  tm  tint, 
with  sufficient  hardness  to  allow  the 
sculptor  to  indulge  his  fancy.  The 
style  of  architec^re  here  is  mixed, 
partaking  both  of  the  Shivite  and  the 
Buddhis^  but  the  details  are  decidedly 
Jain,  more  especially  the  columns. 
Across  a  little  stream  not  many  yards 
from  here  is  a  pantheon  called  the  Serine 
of  the  300  million  gods,  containing  a 
row  of  gigantic  painted  figures  of  divini- 
ties and  heroes.  At  the  end  of  the 
long  building  where  these  figures  are 
arranged  is  a  curious  fresco  of  a  sea- 
piec3.  Near  this  is  the  stone  palace  of 
AbhaySing,  who  succeeded  Ajit  Sing  in 
1724.  It  is  now  quite  deserted  and 
given  over  to  the  bats.  There  are  some 
fine  bits  of  trellis  screen-work  in  the 
garden.] 

128  m.  Merta  Bd.  junc  for  Bikanir. 
Merta,  a  fortified  Marwar  town  of  some 
importance,  is  some  miles  from  the 
railway.  Near  this  town  was  fought 
a  decisive  battle  between  the  Maratbas 
and  Rajputs,  in  which  the  former,  witk 
the  treacherous  assistance  of  a  laige 

1  For  full  detaUs  see  Ck>l.  Tod's  JU^jasUuxmk 

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ROUTE  6.       AJMERB 


123 


body  of  Pindharis  under  Amir  Khan, 
iumcted  a  crushing  defeat  upon  the 

latter. 

[Excnrsion  to  Bikanir. 

35  m.  Nagaur.  A  fortified  town  of 
importance  in  Marwar.  The  crenel- 
lated wall,  houses,  and  groups  of 
temples  make  an  agreeable  break  in 
the  monotonous  rolling  desert. 

103  m.  Bikanir,  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name.  The  ruling  chief 
is  descended  from  a  branch  of  the 
royal  house  of  Jodhpur.  The  state  has 
an  area  of  upwards  of  20,000  sq.  m., 
and  a  pop.  of  about  400,000.  The 
principal  part  of  the  state  is  desert, 
and  the  great  depth  (150  ft.  to  300  ft.) 
at  which  water  is  found  renders  culti- 
vation or  irrigation  impossible.  The 
chief  wealth  of  the  people  is  their  flocks 
and  herds,  which  feed  on  the  bushes  and 
scanty  herbage.  The  Maharaja's  palace 
at  Bikanir  itself  is  picturesque  and 
imposiDg,  viewed  from  a  distance.  But 
like  most  Hindu  palaces,  its  interior 
is  a  mass  of  small  irregular  suites  of 
rooms,  due  to  the  superstitious  custom 
which  forbids  a  chief  to  live  in  the 
apartments  of  his  predecessor.  **  Pal- 
atial" loses  its  force  as  an  adjective, 
applied  to  native  Indian  interiors. 
Some  of  the  rooms  in  the  palace  are 
lined  with  willow-pattern  plates  and 
tiles  set  in  the  walls.  The  town  is 
surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  contains  a 
few  houses  with  handsome  fronts  of 
carved  stonework,  belonging  to  wealthy 
Jain  merchants.  A  political  agent 
resides  here,  and  his  garden,  green  with 
grass  and  bright  with  flowers,  is  a  veri- 
talde  oasis  in  the  desert,  which  beats 
with  its  sandy  waves  impotently  on 
the  Burrounding  wall.  One  of  the 
dcepweUs  should  be  seen  and  its  depth 
viewed  by  a  beam  of  light  reflected 
tnm  a  mirror.] 

216  m.  Sambhar  stat 

Sawbha/r  Lake  is  situated  on  the 
bcfder  of  the  Jeypore  and  Jodhpur 
states.  The  surrounding  country  is 
aaid  and  sterile,  being  composed  of 
rod(8  abounding  in  salt,  and  belonging 


to  the  Permian  system ;  and  the  salt 
of  the  lake  comes  from  the  washing  of 
these  rocks.  The  bottom  is  tenacious 
black  mud  resting  on  loose  sand.  The 
lake  is  21  m.  long  from  E.  to  W.  after 
the  rains,  and  the  average  breadth  at 
that  time  is  5  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
the  depth,  1  m.  from  the  shore,  is  only 
2J  ft.  The  water  dries  up  from  October 
to  June,  and  leaves  about  an  inch  of 
salt  in  the  enclosures,  which  are  con- 
structed only  where  the  black  mud  is 
of  considerable  thickness. 

From  the  17th  century  the  salt  was 
worked  by  the  Jeypore  and  Jodhpur 
Governments  conjointly  till  1870,  when 
the  British  Government  became  lessees 
of  both  states.  The  works  are  on  the 
£.  and  N.  edges  of  the  lake.  The 
average  yearly  out-turn  is  from  300,000 
to  400,000  tons  of  salt,  and  the  cost 
of  storage  and  extraction  is  fd.  for  every 
82f  lbs.  When  the  salt  is  formed 
men  and  women  of  the  Barrar  caste 
wade  through  the  mud  and  lift  it  in 
large  cakes  into  baskets. 

221  m.  Phalera  stat  N.  juno.  of 
R.M.  and  J.B.  railways. 

Proceeding  from  Marwar  junc.  (p.  121) 
towards  Ajmere,  after  leaving,  561  m., 
Haripnr  sta.,  D.B.,  the  line  engages  in 
a  rocky  ascent  which  continues  to  close 
to  582  m.,  Beawar  sta.,  D.B.,  an  im- 
portant town,  and  reaches 

615  m.  AJMTtRB  junc.  sta.,  if.  D.B. 
[From  this  place  a  line  runs  S.  to  N%s- 
seerabady  Neemuch,  Butlam^  Tndore, 
MhoWf  and  Khandwa  (see  Kte.  4).] 

Ajmere,  the  key  to  Rajputana  (pop. 
67,800),  is  the  capital  of  an  isolated 
British  district  in  the  Rajput  states. 
The  district  comprises  two  tracts  known 
as  Ajmere  and  Merwara  (pop.  541,900). 
The  Agent  of  the  Governor-General  for 
Rajputana,  whose  headquarters  are  at 
Abu,  is  ex-officio  Chief  Commissioner 
of  Ajmere.  The  city  is  of  great  an- 
tiquity and  celebrity,  and  is  situated 
in  a  valley,  or  rather  basin,  at  the  foot 
of  the  rocky  and  picturesque  Taragarh 
Hill  (3000  ft.  above  the  sea).  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  stone  wall  with  five 
gateways,  and  is  well  built,  containing 
many  fine  houses  of  jsjbone  with  oroa- 

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ROUTE  6.   BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


mental  facades.  Ajmere  was  founded 
in  145  A.D.  by  Ajaypal,  one  of  the 
Chohan  kings. 

In  1024,  Mabmud  of  Ghazni,  on  his 
way  to  Somnath  in  Kattywar,  sacked 
Ajmere,  and  Akbar  conquered  it  in 
1666. 

The  memory  of  the  Ajmere  Chishti 
was  held  in  particular  respect  by  the 
great  Akbar,  who  was  accustomed  to 
pay  a  yearly  visit  to  his  shrine. 
Several  of  these  pilgrimages  were  made 
on  foot  from  Agra  and  other  places. 
The  road  from  Fatehpur-Sikri  to  Aj- 
mere was  so  much  usea  by  Akbar  that 
he  caused  **Kos  Minars"  (masonry 
columns  answering  to  our  milestones) 
to  be  erected  along  the  route.  Several 
of  these  minars  can  still  be  seen  from 
the  railway. 

Thomas  Coryat,  in  the  17th  century, 
walked  from  Jerusalem  to  Ajmere,  and 
spent  £2 :  10s.  on  the  journey.  Sir 
Thomas  Roe,  the  ambassador  of  James 
I.,  gives  an  account  of  the  city  in 
1615-16.  In  about  1720  Ajit  Sing 
Rathore  seized  the  city,  which  was 
recovered  by  Muhammad  Shah,  and 
made  over  by  him  to  Abhay  Sing.  His 
son  Ram  Sing  called  in  the  Marathas, 
under  Jav  Apa  Sindia,  who,  however, 
was  murdered,  and  in  1756  Ajmere  was 
made  over  to  Bijai  Sing,  cousin  of 
Ram  Sing.  In  1787  the  Rathores 
recovered  Ajmere,  but  after  their  defeat 
at  Patau  had  to  surrender  it  again  to 
Sindia.  On  the  25th  of  June  1818 
Daulat  Rao  Sindia  made  it  over  by 
treaty  to  the  English. 

The  Besidency  is  on  the  brink  of 
the  beautiful  artificial  lake  called  the 
Ana  Saugar,  constructed  by  Raja 
Ana  in  the  middle  of  the  11th  cent. 
It  forms  the  source  of  the  river  Laoni, 
which  finally  unites  with  the  Delta  of 
the  Indus.  The  Emperor  Shah  Jehan 
erected  a  noble  range  of  marble  pavil- 
ions on  the  embankment.  They  were 
long  the  only  public  offices  in  Ajmere, 
but  the  chief  one  is  now  used  as  the 
official  residence  of  the  Commissioner. 
The  central  and  most  beautiful  pavil- 
ion, in  which  the  emperor  often  re- 
posed, has  been  restored  at  great  cost. 
The  walk  along  the  bund  or  embank- 


ment (which  is  public)  is  very  de- 
lightful, —  quite  the  pleasantest  sight 
in  Ajmere.  If  the  flying  foxes  still 
hang  in  the  trees,  they  are  worth  ob- 
serving. They  are  sure  not  to  be 
far  off  even  if  they  have  changed  their 
quarters,  as  they  love  the  vicinity  of 
water.  To  the  N.  is  the  broad  expanse 
of  the  lake,  and  to  the  S.  under  the 
bund  is  the  Public  Garden,  The  city  is 
supplied  with  water  from  the  nev 
le^e,  the  Foy  Saugar,  formed  by  an 
embankment  thrown  across  the  valley 
6  m.  higher  up.  The  water  of  the  spring 
known  as  the  Digi,  on  the  Nusseerabad 
side  of  Ajmere,  is  said  to  possess  a  high 
specific  gravity,  owing  to  the  stratum 
of  lead  through  which  it  passes. 

Akbar'8  Palace  is  outside  the  city 
proper,  to  the  £.,  not  far  from  tlie 
railwav  station.  The  entrance  gate  is 
very  nne.  It  was  an  arsenal,  and  is 
now  used  as  a  tehsil. 

The  mosque  called  the  Arhai-din-ka- 
jhompra,  or  "The  Hut  of  two  and  a 
half  Days,"  is  just  outside  the  city  gate 
beyond  the  Dargah.  It  was  built  by 
Altamsh  or  Kutbu-din  about  1200 
from  the  materials  of  a  Jain  temple. 
The  name  is  derived  from  a  tradition 
that  it  was  built  supematurally  in  two 
and  a  half  days.  Modern  archseolocrists 
assert  that  it  was  probably  erected  byj 
the  same  architect  who  built  the  Kutb 
mosque  near  Delhi.  It  is  uncertain] 
whetner  anv  of  the  undoubtedly  Hindu 
pillars  of  which  the  mosque  is  built  ard 
now  in  siiu»  Their  ornamentation  is 
very  complete,  no  two  being  alike.  The 
mosque  proper,  supported  by  4  rows  of 
18  of  these  columns,  derives  its  beauty 
from  the  materials  of  which  it  is  con- 
structed. The  screen  in  front  of  it  is  a 
work  well  deserving  attention:  it  ia 
the  glory  of  the  mosque,  and  consista 
of  seven  arches  very  similar  to  those 
with  which  Altamsh  adorned  the  court- 
yard of  the  Kutb.  In  the  centre  the 
screen  rises  to  a  height  of  56  ft. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  taste  witiii 
which  the  Eufic  and  Tughra  inscrip* 
tions  are  interwoven  with  the  moil 
purely  architectural  decorations  anl 
the  constructive  lines  of  the  design. 

The  bridle-path  to  Taragarh  passei 
this  mosque,  and  by  a  steep  asceol 

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rMches  the  sttmtnit  in  2  m.  The  tra- 
veller can  ride  or  be  carried  in  a  chair, 
OT  jhampan.  The  trip  will  occupy 
three  hours.  The  view  from  the  top  is 
the  principal  reward  for  the  trouble. 

One  of  the  principal  points  of  inter- 
est in  Ajmere  is  the  Dargah.  It  is  ven- 
erated alike  by  Mohammedans  and 
Hindus,  and  derives  its  extreme  sanctity 
from  being  the  burial-place  of  Khwajah 
Muin-nd-din  Chishti,  who  was  called 
Aftab-i-MuIk-i-Hind.  He  died  in  688 
A.H.=1236  A.D.     He  was  the  son  of 


the  shoes  on  entering  the  Dargah. 
Passing  through  a  lofty  gateway,  a  court- 
yard is  entered  in  which  are  two  very 
large  iron  caldrons,  one  twice  the  size 
of  the  other.  These  are  known  as  the 
great  and  the  little  deg.  A  rich  pilgrim 
may  ofifer,  at  the  annual  fair  and  pilgrim- 
age, to  give  a  deg  feast.  The  smallest 
sum  with  which  to  buy  rice,  butter, 
sugar,  almonds,  raisins,  and  spice  to 
fill  the  large  deg  is  1000  rs.,  and  be- 
sides this  he  has  to  pay  about  200  rs. 
as  presents  and  offerings  at  the  shrine. 


The  Arhai-din-ka-jhompra  Mosque  at  Ajmere. 


Khwajah  'Usman,  and  was  called  Chisti 
from  a  qnarter  in  the  city  of  Sanjar 
in  Persia.  He  had  gone  into  a  chapel 
to  pray,  and  his  relative,  the  Chishti 
frwnFatehpur-Sikri,  coming  to  see  him 
00  the  sixth  day  found  him  dead.  Of 
^family  of  saints  and  courtiers,  Farid- 
a-din  is  buried  at  Pak-patan,  in  the 
^igab;  Nizam-nd-din,  Kutb-ud-din, 
indNasir-ud-din  atornear  Delhi ;  Shaik 
Wim  at  Fatehpur-Sikri  near  Agra ; 
aid  Bandah  Nawaz  at  Kalbargah  in 
he  Beccan. 
Woollen  socks  have  to  be  put  over 


After  this  gigantic  rice  pudding  has 
been  cooked  Dy  means  of  a  furnace 
beneath,  it  is  scrambled  for,  boiling 
hot.  Eight  earthen  pots  of  the  mix- 
ture are  first  set  apart  for  the  forei^ 
pilgrims,  and  it  is  tne  hereditary  privi- 
lege of  the  people  of  Indrakot,  and  of 
the  menials  of  the  Dargah,  to  empty  the 
caldron  of  the  remain(&r  of  its  contents. 
All  the  men  who  take  part  in  this 
hereditary  privilege  are  swaddled  up  to 
the  eyes  in  cloths,  to  avoid  the  effect 
of  the  scalding  fluid .  When  the  caldron 
is    nearly  empty,  all  the   Indrakotis 

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ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


ttimble  in  together  and  scrape  it  clean. 
There  is  no  doubt  that  this  custom  is 
very  ancient,  though  no  account  of  its 
origin  can  be  given.  It  is  generally 
counted  amon^  the  miracles  of  the 
saints  that  no  uves  have  ever  been  lost 
on  these  occasions,  though  burns  are 
frequent.  The  cooked  rice  is  boi\ght 
by  all  classes,  and  most  castes  will  eat 
it.  The  number  of  pilgrims  at  this 
festival  is  estimated  at  20,000. 

The  TonU)  of  the  saint  is  a  square 
building  of  white  marble  surmounted 
by  a  dome.  It  has  two  entrances,  one 
of  which  is  spanned  by  a  silver  arch. 
S.  of  it  in  a  small  enclosure  with  well- 
cut  marble  lattices  is  the  Mazar  or 
*' grave"  of  Hafiz  Jamal,  daughter  of 
the  saint,  and  W.  of  it,  close  by  her 
tomb  is  that  of  Chimmi  Be^am,  daughter 
of  Shah  Jehan.  Christians  may  not 
approach  within  20  yds.  of  these  holy 
places.  There  are  some  very  fine  trees 
in  the  enclosure. 

W.  of  the  sanctuary  is  a  long,  narrow, 
and  very  handsome  mosqiie  of  white 
inarhle,  built  by  Shah  J^icm.  It  has 
11  arches,  and  is  about  100  ft  long ; 
a  Persian  inscription  runs  the  whole 
length  of  the  roof  under  the  eaves. 
There  is  another  mosqiie  within  the 
enclosure — to  the  rt.  on  entering — 
built  by  Akbar,  Most  of  the  outer 
doors  are  completely  covered  with 
horse-shoes,  and  many  slips  of  writing 
are  plastered  on  the  walls. 

Before  leaving  the  visitor  will  prob- 
ably have  a  necklace  of  flowers  put 
round  him,  which  it  will  be  polite  not 
to  take  off  until  he  has  gone  some 
distance.  A  small  present^  say  1  r., 
should  be  given  in  return. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Dargah  enclosure  is 
the  Jhalra,  a  deep  tank  where  ablutions 
are  made,  partly  cut  out  of  the  rock  and 
lined  by  steep  flights  of  irregular  stexw. 

Ajmere  is  the  headquarters  of  about 
1800  miles  of  metre-gauge  rly.  worked 
by  the  B.B.  and  C.I.  Railway  Co. 
Near  the  rly.  sta.  are  very  extensive 
workshops  emplo3dng  many  thousand 
Hindu  and  Mohammedan  workmen, 
who  accomplish  their  tasks  with  a 
wondOTfolly  small  amount  of  European 
supervision.  Across  the  railway  line 
from  the  city  is  an  extensive  civil 


station,  inhabited  almost  exclusively 
by  railway  officials  ;  and  beyond  their 
houses  S.  is  the  Mnyo  College  fw  the 
education  of  youne  Rajput  princes 
opened  by  Lord  Dufferin  m  1875.  It 
contains  about  80  boys  between  the 
ages  of  8  and  18  years.  A  visitor, 
even  if  pressed  for  time,  ought  to  drive 
through  the  grounds.  The  centril 
buildmg  is  a  handsome  white  marble 
pile,  slightly  marred  by  some  incon- 
gnious  aetails.  The  subsidiary  build- 
ings have  been  erected  by  native 
bmlders  for  the  chiefs  as  lodging- 
houses  for  their  pupils  and  servants. 
Perhaps  nowhere  else  in  India  is  so 
much  good  modem  native  architectnre 
to  be  seen. 

The  Cantonment  of  NoBseerabad  is 
14  m.  from  Aimere  (see  p.  86). 

[The  traveller  who  has  leisure  should 
visit  the  sacred  Lake  of  Pushkar,  about 
7  m.     Permanent  pop.  4000. 

The  road  skirts  the  W.  shore  of  the 
Ana  Saugar.  At  8  m.  from  Ajmere  is 
the  village  of  Nausar,  in  a  gap  in  the 
hills  which  divide  the  Ana  Saugar  from 
the  Pushkar  Lake.  This  striking  pass 
through  the  hills  is  1  m.  long.  Push- 
kar is  the  most  sacred  lake  in  India, 
in  a  narrow  valley  overshadowed  by 
fine  rocky  peaks,  and  is  said  to  be  of 
miraculous  origin,  marking  the  spot 
hallowed  by  the  great  sacrifice  of 
Brahma.  Early  in  the  Middle  Ages 
it  became  one  of  the  most  frequented 
objects  of  pilgrimage,  and  is  still  visited 
during  the  great  Mela  (fair)  of  Oct.  and 
Nov.  by  about  100,000  pilgrims.  On 
this  occasion  is  also  held  a  great  mart 
for  horses,  camels,  and  bullocks. 

Although  the  ancient  temples  were 
destroyed  by  Aurangzib,  the  5  moden^ 
ones  with  their  ghats  on  the  mai^gin  oj 
the  lake  are  highly  picturesque.  That 
to  Brahma  is  usually  said  to  be  the  orUi 
one  in  India;  but  there  are  smaller 
shrines  to  Bralunaatseveral  old  templed 
Over  the  gateway  is  the  figure  of  th^ 
hans,  or  **§oose,"  of  Brahma.  The  D.  B 
is  in  a  native  house  on  the  lake,  fron 
which  there  is  a  good  view.] 

658  nl.  Naraina  stat.  The  villagi 
with  a  large  tank  is  seen  from  the  rly. 
It  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Dadn- 
panthi  sect  of  reformers.    Their  relh 

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127 


^OD,  ethics,  and  teaching  are  embodied 
mt  mass  of  poetry  written  by  Dadu 
Pinth  md  his  disciples.  A  division  of 
the  sect  is  composed  of  military  monks 
who  ser?e  in  the  armies  of  the  Jeypore 
and  neighbouring  states. 

^699m.  Jfe7FORE(or  Jaipur)sta.,  3«c 
D.B.  Pop..  143,000.  Amb^r  is  the 
uicient capital,  Jeypore  the  modern  ;  it 
is  the  lesidence  of  the  Maharaja,  whose 
state  covers  nearly  15,000  sq.  m.,  with  a 
pop.  of  2,500,000,  and  the  headquarters 
of  the  Resident.  It  derives  its  name 
from  the  famous  Mahara.ia  Siwai  Jey 
(or  Jaya)  Sing.  II.,  who  founded  it  in 
1728.  The  town  is  surrounded  on  aU 
sides  except  the  S.  by  rugged  hills, 
crowned  with  forts.  That  at  the  end 
of  the  ridge  overhanging  the  city  on  the 
K.  W.  is  the  Nahargarh,  or  *  *  tiger  fort. " 
The  face  of  the  ridge  is  scarped  and 
inaccessible  on  the  S.  or  city  siae,  while 
on  the  N.  it  slopes  towards  Amb^r.  A 
masonry,  crenellated  wall,  with  seven 
gateways,  encloses  the  whole  city. 

Jeypore  is  the  pleasant  healthy 
capitol  of  one  of  the  most  prosperous 
independent  states  of  Rajputana,  and  is 
a  very  busy  and  important  commercial 
town,  with  large  banks  and  other  trad- 
ing establishments.  It  is  a  centre  of 
aatiye  manufactures,  especially  that  of 
many  kinds  of  jewellery  and  of  coloured 
printed  cloths  and  muslins.  The 
enamel-work  done  here  is  the  best  in 
Ma,  and  the  cutting  and  setting  of 
gwnets  and  other  stones  found  in  the 
«t»te  is  a  large  branch  of  industry. 
"rhe  crowded  streets  and  bazaars  are 
i»08t  Uvely  and  picturesque.  The  city 
ii  remarkable  for  the  width  and  regu- 
bity  of  its  streets.  It  is  laid  out  in 
netuignlar  blocks,  and  is  divided  by 
(^  streets  into  six  equal  portions. 
The  main  streets  are  111  ft.  wide,  and 
•ttjpaved,  and  the  city  is  lighted  by  gas.^ 

htses  to  view  the  Maharaja's  ralace 
«id  Stables  and  the  old  Palace  of 
Mh  may  be  obtained  from  the 
iZnident. 

The  Kaharaja's  Palace,  with  its 
heantiful  gardens  and  pleasure  pounds 
I  m.  long,  adorned  witn  fountains,  fine 
trees,  and  flowering  shrubs,  occupies 
fte  centre  of  the  cify  and  covers  f  of 
^  Sea  LetUn  (^Marque^  by  Rudyard  Kipling. 


its  area.  The  whole  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  embattled  wall,  built  by  Jey 
Sinff,  but  many  of  the  buildings  in- 
cluded in  it  are  of  a  later  date.  The 
Chandra  Mahal,  which  forms  the  centre 
of  the  great  palace,  is  a  loftv  and  strik- 
ing building,  seven  stories  high,  looking 
over  the  gardens. 

On  the  ground-floor  is  the  Diwan- 
i-Khas,  or  private  hall  of  audience, 
built  partly  of  white  marble,  and 
remarkable  even  in  India  for  its 
noble  simplicity.  On  the  top  story 
there  is  a  magnificent  view  over  the 
centre  city.  To  the  L  are  the  gaudily- 
furnished  modern  buildings  containing 
the  apartments  of  the  Maharajaand  his 
courtiers,  and  the  zenana. 

East  of  the  Chandra  Mahal  is  the 
famous  Jantra  or  Observatory,  the 
largest  of  the  five  built  by  the  celebrated 
royal  astronomer  Jey  Sine  (see  Benares, 
Muttra,  Delhi,  and  Ujjain).  It  is  not 
under  cover,  but  is  an  open  courtyard 
full  of  curious  and  fantastic  instruments 
invented  and  designed  by  him.  They 
have  been  allowed  to  go  much  out  ot 
repair,  and  many  of  them  are  now  quite 
useless,  it  being  impossible  even  to 
guess  what  purpose  they  served  in  the 
wonderfully  accurate  calculations  and 
observations  of  their  inventor ;  but 
dials,  gnomons,  quadrants,  etc.,  still 
remain  of  great  interest  to  astronomers. 

Adjoining  the  Observatory  are  the 
royal  Stables,  built  round  large  court- 
yards ;  and  beyond  them  is  the  Hawa 
Mahal,  or  HaU  of  the  Winds,  one  of 
Jey  Sing's  chefs  cTosuvret  a  fantastic 
and  elaborate  building,  decorated  with 
stucco,  and  overlooking  one  of  the  chief 
streets  of  the  town. 

In  the  central  court  of  the  palace  are 
the  Raj  Printing  Office,  the  Clock 
Tower,  and  the  Armoury.  To  the  E. 
of  the  Diwan-i-'Am  is  the  Parade 
Groimd,  girt  with  open  colonnades, 
behind  which  are  the  Law  Courts. 
Horses  can  mount  to  the  top  of  the 
palace  by  inclined  planes. 

Near  the  chief  entrance  rises  the 
Ishwari  Minar  Swarga  Sul,  the  "  Min- 
aret piercing  heaven,**  built  by  Rajah 
Ishwari  Sing  to  overlook  the  city. 

Public  Gaxdezi,  outside  the  city  wall, 
is  one  of  the  finest  gardens  in  India, 

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ftOUTfi  6.      BOMBAT  TO  DELHt 


India 


L 


70  acres  in  extent,  and  was  laid  out 
by  Dr.  de  Fabeck  at  a  cost  of  about 
400,000  rs.  Attached  to  it  are  a  fine 
menagerie  and  aviary.  These  gardens 
cost  the  Maharaja  30,000  rs.  a  year  to 
keep  up.  There  is  a  fine  statue  oj 
Lord  Mayo, 

In  the  centre  of  the  garden  is  the 
Albert  Hall,  a  sumptuous  modern  build- 
ing, of  which  the  Prince  of  Wales  laid 
the  first  stone  in  1876.  It  contains  a 
large  Darbar  Hall  and  a  beautiful 
museum, — an  Oriental  South  Kensing- 
ton,  suitably  housed.  The  collections 
of  modem  works  of  art  and  industrj% 
and  also  of  antiquities,  from  every  part 
of  India,  are  very  complete  and  highly 
interesting.  There  is  a  fine  view  from 
the  top. 

The  Mayo  Hospital. —Beyond  the 
gardens  is  the  hospital,  of  rough  white 
stone,  with  a  clock  tower.  It  can 
house  150  patients. 

The  Church  is  on  the  way  to  the 
Railway  Station,  a  little  to  the  "W.  of 
the  road. 

At  the  School  of  Art,  a  handsome 
modem  building,  are  first-rate  technical 
and  industrial  classes  for  teaching  and' 
reviving  various  branches  of  native 
artistic  industry,  such  as  metal  and 
enamel-work,  embroidery,  weaving,  etc 

The  Maharaja's  Ck)llege.— In  Jey- 
pore  public  instruction  has  made  greater 

grogress  than  in  the  other  states  of 
Ajputana.  The  College,  opened  in 
1844  with  about  40  pupils,  had  in 
1889  and  1890  a  daily  class  attendance 
of  1000,  and  compares  favourably  with 
similar  institutions  of  the  kind  in 
British  India ;  it  is  affiliated  to  the 
Calcutta  University. 

The  chattris,  or  cenotaph^,  of  the  Ma- 
harajas at  Gethur  are  just  outside  the 
N.E.  city  wall.  They  are  in  well- 
planted  gardens,  the  trees  of  which 
are  full  of  solemn-looking,  gray-headed 
monkeys.  The  first  seen  on  entering 
is  Jey  Sing's  Chattri,  the  finest  of  all. 
It  is  a  dome  of  the  purest  white  marble, 
supported^  on  20  beautifully  carved 
pillars  rising  from  a  substantial  square 
platform,  and  profusely  ornamented 
with  scenes  from  Hindu  mythology. 
S.E.  of  Jey  Sink's  Chattri  is  that  of 
his  son  Madhu  Smg,  a  dome  rising  from 


the  octagon  on  arches  reveraed.  The 
only  ornaments  are  carved  peacocks. 
W.  of  this  chattri  is  that  of  Pratap 
Sing,  his  son,  completed  by  the  late 
ruler  Ram  Sing.  It  is  of  white  marble 
brought  from  Alwar. 

The  water  which  supplies  Jeypore  is 
drawn  from  a  stream  on  the  W .  of  the 
city,  running  into  the  ChambaL  The 
pumping-station  and  high-level  reser- 
voirs are  nearly  opposite  the  Chandpol 
Gate. 

[An  expedition  for  the  sake  of  the 
view  may  be  made  by  elephant  or  on 
foot  to  the  Shrine  of  the  Sun  God  at 
Oalta,  an  uninteresting  building  ^50  ft 
above  the  plain,  and  built  on  a  ^'utting 
rocky  platform,  on  the  summit  of  a 
range  of  hills,  about  1^  m.  to  the  E.  of 
Jeypore,  of  which  by  far  the  finest  view 
is  obtained  from  this  point.  The  way 
the  sandy  desert  is  encroaching  on  the 
town  should  be  noticed.  It  has  caused 
one  large  suburb  to  be  deserted,  and  the 
houses  and  gardens  are  going  to  ruin. 
The  sand  has  even  drifted  up  the  ravines 
of  the  hills.  This  evil  ought  to  he 
arrested  at  any  cost  by  planting.] 

[The  excursion  to  Ambdr  (5  m.),  the 
capital  of  Jeypore  till  1728,  now  ruined 
and  deserted,  is  most  interesting,  and 
will  occupy  a  whole  day.  It  is  neces- 
sary to  obtain  permission  to  visit  Amb^r 
from  the  Resident  of  Jeypore,  and  that 
official,  as  a  rule,  kindly  asks  the  State 
to  send  an  elephant  to  meet  the  traveller 
at  Chandrabagh,  where  the  hill  becomes 
too  steep  for  a  carriage. 

On  the  left  of  the  road  a  line  of 
fortified  hills  are  passed ;  these  culmin 
ate  in  the  great  Fort  400  feet  above  the 
old  palace,  connected  with  it  and  built 
for  its  defence.  The  picturesque  situa- 
tion of  Amber  at  the  mouth  of  a  rocky 
mountain  gorge,  in  which  nestles  a 
lovely  lake,  has  attracted  the  admira- 
tion of  all  travellers,  including  Jacque- 
mont  and  Heber.  The  name  is  first 
mentioned  by  Ptolemy.  It  was  founded 
by  the  Minas,  and  still  flourishing  in 
967.  In  1037  it  was  taken  by  the 
Rajput,  who  held  it  till  it  was  deserted. 

The  old  Palace,  begun  by  Man  Sing, 
1600,  ranks  architecturally  second  only 
to  Gwalior,  though  instead  of  standing 
on  a  rocky  pedestal  it  lies  low  on  the 

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nOUTE  6.       8ANGANER 


129 


slope  of  the  hill,  picturesquely  rooted 
on  its  rocky  base  and  reflected  in  the 
lake  below.  The  interior  arrangements 
are  excellent.  The  suites  of  rooms  form 
vistas  opening  upon  striking  views.  It 
is  a  grand  pile,  and  though  it  lacks  the 
fresh  and  vigorous  stamp  of  Hindu 
originality  which  characterises  earlier 
bufldings,  the  ornamentation  and  tech- 
nical details  are  free  from  feeble- 
ness. 

Entered  by  a  fine  staircase  from  a 
great  courtyard  is  the  Diwan-i-*Am, 
a  noble  specimen  of  Rajput  art,  with 
double  row  of  columns  supporting  a 
massive  entablature,  above  which  are 
latticed  galleries.  Its  magnificence 
attracted  the  envy  of  Jehangir,  and 
Mirza  Riga,  to  save  his  great  work 
from  destruction,  covered  it  with 
stacco. 

To  the  right  of  the  Diwan-i-'Am  steps 
is  a  small  temple  where  a  goat,  offered 
each  morning  to  Kali,  preserves  the 
tradition  of  a  daily  human  sacrifice  on 
the  same  spot  in  pre-historic  times. 

On  a  higher  terrace  are  the  Raja's 
own  apartments,  entered  by  a  splendid 
gateway  covered  with  mosaics  and 
sculptures,  erected  by  Jey  Sing,  over 
^ich  is  the  Svhdg  Mandiry  a  small 
pavilion  with  beautiful  latticed  win- 
dows. Through  this  are  further  mar- 
vels,— a  green  and  cool  garden  with 
fonntains,  surrounded  by  palaces, 
brilliant  with  mosaics  and  marbles. 
That  on  the  1.  is  the  Jey  Mwndir^  or 
Hall  of  Victory,  adorned  by  panels  of 
alabaster,  some  of  which  are  inlaid,  and 
others  are  adorned  with  flowers  in  alto- 
relievo,  **  the  roof  flittering  with  the 
mirrored  and  spangled  work  for  which 
Jeypore  is  renowned."  Near  the  Jey 
ihndir  a  narrow  passage  leads  down  to 
tJw  bathing-rooms,  all  of  pale  creamy 
nuirble.  Above  is  the  Sas  Maridir, 
"which  literally  glows  with  bright  and 
tender  colours  and  exquisite  inlaid  work, 
and  looks  through  arches  of  carved  ala- 
baster and  clusters  of  slender  columns 
upon  the  sleeping  lake  and  the  silent 
mountains." 

At  theN.  E.  angle  is  a  balcony,  whence 

there  is  a  fine  view  over  the  town  of 

Amber  and  the  plain  beyond  to  the 

hiU  which  overlooks  Ramgarh.    Some 

[India] 


chattris  outside  the  wall  are  those  of 
chieftains  who  died  before  Jey  Sing  II. 
In  the  palace  to  the  ri^ht  is  a  chamber 
on  the  rt  wall  of  which  are  views  of 
Ujjain,  and  on  the  1.  views  of  Benares 
and  Muttra.  That  opposite  the  Jev 
Mandir  is  called  the  SukhNawaSy  *  *  Hall 
of  Pleasure.  '*  In  the  centre  of  the  narrow 
dark  room  is  an  opening  for  a  stream  to 
flow  down  into  the  groove  or  channel 
which  runs  through  the  hall.  The  doors 
are  of  sandal-wood  inlaid  with  ivory. 

A  steep  path  leads  down  to  the 
Khiri  Gate,  beyond  which,  as  it  leads 
to  one  of  the  forts,  Kantalgarh,  no  one 
is  allowed  to  pass  without  an  order. 
At  the  bottom  of  this  path  there  is  a 
temple  to  Thakurji,  or  Vishnu.  It  is 
white  and  beautifully  carved,  and  just 
outside  the  door  is  a  lovely  square 
pavilion  exquisitely  carved  with  figures 
representing  Krishna  sporting  with 
the  Gopis. 

Amb^r  formerly  contained  many  fine 
temples,  but  most  are  now  in  ruins.] 

[Sanganer  is  about  7  m.  to  the 
S.  of  Jeypore,  a  nice  drive  past  the 
Residency  and  the  Moti  Dongari,  and 
garden  where  the  Indian  princes  who 
are  visitors  to  the  Maharaja  some- 
times encamp. 

A  gateway  leads  into  this  town 
through  two  ruined  Tirpoliyas,  or  triple 
gateways  of  three  stories,  about  66  ft. 
high.  The  second  story  has  an  open 
stone  verandah,  supported  by  four 
pillars  on  either  side  of  the  archway. 
Ascending  the  street  is  a  small  temple 
on  the  rt.  sacred  to  Kalyanji  or  KrishTUi, 
the  door  of  which  is  handsomely 
carved.  Opposite  is  a  temple  to  Sita- 
ram,  with  a  pillar,  6  ft  high,  of  white 
Makrana  marble  called  a  Kirthi  Kambh. 
On  the  four  sides  are  Brahma  with  four 
faces,  Vishnu,  cross-legged,  holding  the 
lotus,  Shiva  holding  a  cobra  in  his  rt. 
hand  and  a  trident  in  his  1. ,  with  Par- 
bati  beside  him  and  Ganesh. 

Higher  up,  on  the  1. ,  are  the  ruins 
of  the  Old  Palace,  which  must  once 
have  been  a  vast  building.  N.  by  E. 
from  this  is  the  Sanganer  Temple  with 
three  courts.  Visitors  are  not  allowed 
to  enter  the  third.  There  are  several 
other  old  shrines  in  the  place.] 

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132 


ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


t 


coined  their  own  money,  and  their 
currency  was  called  Gokul  Sikkah.  It 
is  a  place  of  considerable  trade,  particu- 
larly in  iron  and  salt  The  Town  Hall 
is  handsome,  as  are  the  Jain  Temples^ 
close  to  the  town. 

The  rly.  passes  W.  of  the  Kutb  Minar 
and  of  the  tombs  and  ruins  S.  of  Delhi, 
a  line  of  hills  shutting  them  out  from 
view,  and  when  near  the  city  turns  E. 
(Here  the  Delhi,  Umballa,  and  Ealka 
Rly.  turns  N.)  The  line  enters  through 
the  W.  wall,  meeting  in  a  fine  central 
station  the  E.  I.  Rly.  and  N.  W.  Rly., 
which  enter  the  city  over  the  Jumna 
river  bridge  from  the  E. 

890  m.  Delhi  junc.  sta.,a^  D.B. 
(193,600  inhab.) 

History. 

Little  is  definitely  known  of  the 
history  of  Delhi  prior  to  the  Moham- 
medan conquest  in  1193  a.d.  It  is 
said  that  a  city  called  Indraprastha 
was  founded  by  the  early  Aryan  im- 
migrants, under  a  king  called  Yudhis- 
thira,  and  that  the  fort  of  Indrapat, 
also  called  Purana  Killa,  or  ''Old 
Fort,"  stands  on  the  site  of  this  city. 
The  extensive  ruins  lying  S.  of  modern 
Delhi,  and  covering  an  area  of  about 
45  sq.  m.,  are  the  remains  of  seven 
forts  or  cities,  built  by  different  kings. 
The  oldest  are  the  Hindu  forts  of  Lal- 
kot,  built  by  Anang  Pal  in  1052  a.d.  ; 
and  Rai  Pithora,  built  by  the  king  of 
that  name,  about  1180  A.D.  The  ruins 
of  these  two  forts,  and  the  iron  pillar 
at  the  Kutb,  are  the  only  remains  of 
the  Hindu  period.  The  five  Moham- 
medan forts  or  cities  were  Siri,  built  by 
'Alau-din  in  1304  A.D.  ;  Tughlakabad, 
built  by  Tughlak  Shah,  in  1321  a.d.  ; 
the  citadel  of  Tughlakabad,  built  by 
the  same  king  at  the  same  date  ;  'Adi- 
labad,  built  Dy  Muhammad  Tughlak 
in  1325  A.D. ;  and  Jahanpanah,  endosed 
by  the  same  king.  The  name  Delhi 
first  appears  in  the  1st  century  B.C., 
but  the  area  thus  designated  cannot 
now  be  determined. 

The  modem  town  dates  from  the 
commencement  of  the   fort  by   Shah 


Jehan  in  1638,  whence  it  was  \ 
Shahjehanabad.      Delhi  has  beol 
quently  attacked,  and  often  cap! 
It  was  sacked  by  Timur,  the  Moi 
1398 ;  by  Nadir  Shah,  the  Pem 
1739  ;  and  by  Ahmad  Shah  Durai 
Afghan,  in  1756.     On  the  10th  II 
1739,     the    small     Persian    gar^  - 
which    Nadir    Shah    had    introi       ^ 
into  the  city  when  he  captured  it'"^/ 
almost  entirely  put  to  the  swoi     // 
the  people.     On  the  11th  he  g^yf 
troops,  who  had  been  summoned ^^jV 
the  encampment  outside  the  city,  c^.^^^ 
for  a  general  massacre.     From  su^v .  j 
till  12  o'clock  Delhi  presented  a  { i ; 
of  shocking  carnage,  the  horroiT'^ 
which  were  increased  by  the  €3y| 
that  now  spread  to  almost  every  qu  M 
of  the  capital.     The  Mogul  Em^t 
Muhammad  Shah  then  interoedet,       i^ 
the  people,  and  Nadir  replied,   "   [^ 
Emperor  of  India  must  never  a«r  f 
vain,"  and  commanded  that  the  ^< 
sacre  should  cease.     A  vast  multi  P^ 
of  persons  had  perished,  however,^    / 
when  Nadir  left  Delhi  he  carried  ^^/ 
him  immense  treasures,  estimate/f^  - 
from  30  to  70  millions  sterling^  . 
famous  Peacock  Throne,  and  the  1   / 
i-Nur,  diamond.  y^ 


In  1789  the  Maratha  chief,  Mah 
Sindia  captured  Delhi,  and  the  T 
thas  retained  it  till,  in  September'  -. 
General  Lake  defeated  Louis  Bou|  | 
commanding  Sindia's  army,  and  s 
possession  of  Delhi  and  of  the  f 
and  person  of  the  Mogul  Shah  *i 
In  October  1804  Delhi  was  besieg 
the  Maratha,  Jaswant  Rao  Holka] 
successfully  defended  by  the  B     ^ 
under    General     Ochterlony.      '.   > 
that  time  to  1857  the  old  capit 
India  remained  in  the  possessit 
the  British,  although  the  descent 
of  the  Mogul  were  allowed  some 
of  royalty,   and   the  name  of  1 
Bahadur  Shah  succeeded  in  18315 
was    about   80    years   old   whe: 
Mutiny  broke  out.      With  his 
at  Rangoon  in  1862,  the  last 
of  the  Mogul  dynasty  disapp 

1  A  list  of  sovereigns  who  reitcned  i 
from  1198,  will  be  found  o&  p.  uviii. 


d  by  Google 


by  Google 


d  by  Google 


ROUTE  6.       DELHI 


133 


The  Siege  of  Delhi,  1857.^  1 

On  the  10th  of  May  1857  there 
were  in  the  large  cantonment  of 
Meenit,  aboat  40  miles  from  Delhi, 
a  British  force  consisting  of  a  battalion 
of  the  60th  Rifles,  a  regiment  of 
Dragoons  armed  with  carbines,  and 
a  large  force  of  Artillery,  though  only 
two  field-batteries  were  fully  equipped. 
The  Native  troops  were  one  regiment 
of  Cavalry — the  3d,  and  two  re^raents 
of  Infantry  — the  11th  and  20th. 
Eighty-five  troopers  of  the  3d  Cavalry 
had  been  imprisoned  for  refusing  to 
use  the  new  cartridges,  but  were 
released  on  the  day  above  mentioned 
by  their  comrades.  On  that  day, 
Sunday,  when  the  sun  went  down, 
the  Sepoys  broke  into  revolt.  The 
English  soldiers  in  the  cantonment 
were  in  amply  sufiicient  numbers  to 
have  crushed  the  mutiny  locally  had 
they  been  conmianded  by  a  competent 
general,  but  General  Hewitt  does  not 
seem  to  have  comprehended  the  neces- 
sity for  vigorous  action,  and  the 
mutineers,  after  setting  fire  to  the 
houses  of  the  European  officers,  escaped 
to  Delhi.  On  the  moraiog  of  the 
11th  there  was  still  time  for  the 
British  Cavalry  and  Horse  Artillery 
to  have  reached  Delhi  soon  enough  to 
have  saved  many  precious  lives,  but 
the  General  took  no  action. 

In  the  meanwhile  the  Native  Cavalry 
arrived  at  Delhi,  entered  the  city,  cutting 
down  any  Europeans  met  withj  and  then 
found  their  way  to  the  Fort,  and  in- 
duced the  38th  N.I.  to  join  them. 
The  church  was  subsequently  destroyed, 
and  all  Christians  met  with  put  to 
death.  There  were  no  British  troops 
either  in  the  Fort,  or  in  the  cantonment 
about  2  m.  outside  the  city.  The  64th 
N.I.  under  Colonel  Ripley  was  marched 
from  the  cantonment  to  the  Fort,  but 
at  once  fraternised  with  the  38th,  and 
allowed  their  officers  to  be  shot  down. 
Major  Abbott  with  the  74th  N.I.  and 
two  guns  arrived  next  on  the  scene, 
bat  his  regiment  also  joined  the  muti- 

1  A  traveller  who  desires  a  concise  account 
of  the  siege  of  Delhi,  etc.,  without  military 
technicalities,  cannot  do  better  than  refer  to 
Holmes'  Indian  Mvivtiy^ 


neers.  Lieut.  Willoughby,  with  two 
officers,  and  six  non-commissioned 
officers  defended  the  magazine,  in  the 
city,  against  enormous  odds ;  and 
finally  exploded  it,  only  three  of  them 
surviving.  No  assistance  arriving  from 
Meerut  those  who  had  taken  refuge  in 
the  Fort  attempted  to  escape.  Many 
were  shot  down  while  doing  so,  and 
Delhi,  with  its  well-fortified  palace  and 
strong  city  wall,  was  left  in  the  hands 
of  the  mutineers. 

Instant  measures  were  taken  for  the 
concentration  of  European  troops  and 
loyal  native  regiments  upon  Delhi. 
Sir  H.  Barnard  took  command  of  the 
troops  collected  at  Kumal,  and  on  6th 
June  reached  Alipur,  where  he  halted 
till  the  Meerut  brigade  joined  him. 
On  the  7  th  the  latter  brigade,  after  fight- 
ing two  engagements  with  the  rebels, 
arrived.  On  the  following  day  the 
combined  forces  marched  on  Delhi,  and 
found  the  rebels  well  posted  and 
supported  by  30  guns  6  ra.  north  of 
Delhi,  at  the  village  of  Badli-ka-Serai. 
Attacking  the  mutineers,  Barnard 
gained  a  complete  victory.  The  most 
important  result  of  this  success  was  to 
give  the  British  possession  of  "the 
Ridge,"  from  which  all  subsequent  oper- 
ations against  Delhi  were  made. 

*  *  On  the  left  and  centre  of  the  Ridge, 
obliquely  to  the  front  of  attack,  the 
tents  of  the  English  were  pitched  a 
little  to  the  rear  of  their  old  houses, 
and  effectually  concealed  from  the  be- 
sieged. The  position  on  the  extreme 
right  invited  attack.  It  was  sur- 
mounted by  an  extensive  building 
known  as  Hindu  Rao's  house.  A  strong 
body  of  troops  was  posted  here,  and  in 
an  old  observatory  near  it.  About  800 
yds.  to  the  left  of  Hindu  Rao's  house, 
and  on  the  Ridge,  was  an  old  mosque, 
and  again  800  yds.  to  the  left  was  the 
Flag-Staff  Tower,  a  double-storied  circu- 
lar building — a  good  post  for  observa- 
tion, and  strong  enough  to  afford  shelter 
to  troops.  At  these  four  points  Barnard 
established  strong  picquets  supported 
by  guns.  Beyond  Hindn  Rao's  house 
was  the  suburb  of  Subzee-mundee,  which, 
with  its  houses  and  walled  gardens, 
afforded  shelter  to  the  enemy,  and  was 
in  fact  the  key  of  the, English  position. 

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134 


BOUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


Beyond  Sabzee-mundee,  towards  the 
Kabul  Gate,  were  the  viUages  of  Kish- 
engunge,  TVevelyangunge,  Paharipur, 
and  Tdiwara,  all  strong  positions  which 
covered  the  enemy  when  they  advanced 
to  the  attack,  but  were  too  near  the  city 
walls  for  us  to  occupy.  A  little  to  the 
S.  of  the  Flag-Staff,  but  farther  to  the 
E.,  was  Metcalfe  House,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Jumna,  with  substantial  outbuild- 
ings, and  a  mound  in  their  rear,  which 
seemed  to  recommend  it  for  occupation. 
Between  it  and  the  city  was  an  old 
summer  palace  of  the  Emperor,  the 
Kudsiya  Bagh,  with  lofty  gateways 
and  spacious  courtyards,  and  in  a  line 
between  the  latter  and  Hindu  Rao's 
house  was  Ludlow  Castle,  the  house  of 
the  late  Commissioner  Simon  Frazer." 

To  take  this  great  walled  city  Greneral 
Barnard  had  a  force  of  about  8000 
British,  one  Ghoorka  battalion,  the 
Coips  of  Guides,  the  remnant  of  certain 
native  regiments,  and  22  ^ns.  At 
first  it  was  intended  to  assamt  the  city 
by  night,  but  as  failure  would  have 
been  disastrous,  it  was  considered  best 
to  delay  till  the  expected  reinforce- 
ments liad  arrived.  Between  the  12th 
and  18th  the  rebels  attacked  the  British 
position  four  times,  in  front  and  rear. 
Again  on  the  23d  they  attacked,  having 
been  reinforced  by  the  mutineers  from 
Nusseerabad.  Fortunately  the  British 
by  that  time  had  received  an  additional 
850  men. 

On  the  24th  General  Chamberlain 
arrived,  and  with  him  the  8th  and  6l8t 
Europeans,  the  1st  Panjab  Infantry, 
a  squadron  of  Panjab  Cavalry,  and  4 
guns,  raising  the  British  strength  to 
6600.  The  rebels  had  received  an 
accession  of  about  4500  from  Bareilly. 

On  the  9th  and  14th  of  July  fierce 
engagements  were  fought  on  the  right 
of  the  English  position,  near  Hindu 
Rao's  house,  in  and  about  the  Subzee- 
mundee.  In  these  engagements  the 
British  lost  25  officers  and  400  men. 

7  On  the  17th  of  July  Gen.  Reed 
resigned  the  command,  and  made  it 
over  to  Brig.-Gen.  Archdale  Wilson. 
At  this  time  the  besieging  force  was  in 
great  difficulties ;  two  generals  had  died, 
a  third  had  been  compelled  by  illness 
to  resign,  the  Adj. -Gen.  and  Quarter- 


master-Gen. lay  wounded  in  their 
tents ;  and  the  rebels  had  attacked  so 
often,  and  with  such  obstinacy,  that 
it  had.  come  to  be  acknowledged  that 
the  British  were  the  besieged  and  not 
the  besiegers.  On  the  18th  of  July 
the  rebels  made  another  sortie,  which 
was  repulsed  by  Col.  Jones  of  the  60th 
Rifles.  The  Engineer  officers  then 
cleared  away  the  walls  and  houses 
which  had  afforded  cover  to  the  enemy, 
and  connected  the  advanced  posts  wi^ 
the  main  picquets  on  the  Ridge.  After 
this  there  were  no  more  conflicts  in  the 
Subzee-mundee.  On  the  23d  of  July  the 
enemy  streamed  out  of  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  and  endeavoured  to  establish 
themselves  at  Ludlow  Castle.  They 
were  driven  back,  but  the  English 
were  drawn  too  near  the  city  \rall8, 
and  suffered  severe  loss.  An  order 
was  then  issued  prohibiting  pursuit, 
which  had  led  to  so  many  disasters. 
But  reinforcements  were  now  on  their 
way  from  the  Panjab,  and  were  to  be 
commanded  by  one  of  the  best  soldiers 
that  India  had  ever  produced — Gen. 
Nicholson. 

"On  the  7th  of  August  Nichobon 
stood  on  the  Ridge  at  fielhi  He  had 
come  on  in  advance  of  his  column 
of  2500  men,  which  arrived  on  the 
14th.  On  the  25th  he  marched  out 
towards  Najafgarh  with  a  strong 
force  to  attack  the  Sepoys,  who  had 
moved  [to  intercept  the  siege  train 
coming  from  Ferozepur.  The  march 
was  a  troublous  one,  through  deep 
mud.  He  found  the  mutineers  in  three 
bodies,  occupying  two  villages  and  a 
sarai  in  fronl^  afl  protected  by  guns. 
As  the  English  passed  the  ford,  the 
water  being  breast-high  even  tiere, 
the  enemy  poured  upon  them  a  shower 
of  shot  and  shell.  Nicholson,  at  the 
head  of  the  61st  and  the  Fusiliers, 
stormed  the  sarai,  and  captured  the 
guns ;  but  the  Sepoys  fought  well, 
and  sold  their  lives  dearly.  Those  who 
survived  limbered  up  their  guns  and 
made  for  the  brid^  crossing  the  Najaf- 
garh Canal.  Nicholson's  men  over- 
took them,  killed  800,  and  captured  18 
guns.  It  turned  out  to  be  the  Neemuch 
Brigade  who  were  thus  beaten.  The 
Baraili   Brigade  had  not  com^  up 

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ROUTE  6.      THE  SIEGE  OF  DELHI 


135 


Nicliolson  blew  up  tho  Najafgarh 
Bridge,  and  returned  to  camp. 

**  On  the  morning  of  the  4th  of  Sep- 
tember the  siege  guns,  drawn  by 
elephants,  with  an  immense  number  of 
ammunition  waggons,  appeared  on  the 
Ridge.  On  the  6th  the  rest  of  the  Rifles 
from  Mecrut  marched  in.  On  the  8  th  the 
Jummoo  contingent  arrived,  with  Rich- 
ard Lawrence  at  their  head.  Many,  and 
amongst  them  foremost  of  all  Nichol- 
son, chafed  at  the  delay  which  occuiTcd 
in  stonning  Delhi.  The  responsibility 
of  the  attack  rested  with  Archdale 
Wilson,  and  he  had  stated  the  magni- 
tude of  the  enterprise  in  a  letter  to 
Baird  Smith,  of  the  20th  of  August. 
'  Delhi  is  7  m.  in  circumference,  filled 
with  an  immense  fanatical  population, 
garrisoned  by  full  40,000  soldiers, 
annedand  disciplined  by  ourselves,  with 
114  heavy  pieces  of  artillery  mounted  on 
the  walls,  with  the  largest  magazine  of 
shot,  shell,  and  ammunition  in  the 
Upper  Provinces,  besides  some  60  pieces 
of  field  artillery,  all  of  our  own  manu- 
facture, and  manned  by  artillerymen 
drilled  and  taught  by  ourselves;  the 
Fort  itself  having  been  strengthened  by 
perfect  flanking  defences,  erected  by 
our  own  engineers,  and  a  glacis  whicn 
prevents  our  guns  breaching  the  walls 
lower  than  8  ft  from  the  top.*  These 
eircomstances  led  Wilson  to  write  that 
the  chances  of  success  were,  in  his 
opinion,  an^hing  but  favourable  ;  but 
he  would  yield  to  the  judgment  of  the 
chief  engineer.  Many  condemned  his 
apparent  reluctance  to  order  the  assault, 
hut  they  have  since  acknowledged  that 
they  did  him  less  than  justice,  for  the 
principles  of  warfare  were  upon  his  side. 
"Investment  by  the  English,  with 
their  limited  means,  being  impossible, 
it  was  necessary  to  concentrate  all  their 
hreaching  power  on  a  portion  of  the 
walls  sefected  for  a  front  of  attack. 
This  was  the  Mori,  Cashmere,  and  Water 
Bastions,  with  their  connecting  cur- 
tains. This  front  was  chosen  because 
the  fire  of  the  Mori  Bastion  alone  com- 
manded the  approach  to  it,  and  because 
there  was  excellent  cover  to  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  walls.  On  the 
evening  of  the  6th  of  September,  a  light 

hitteryjconsisting  of  si^  9-pounders  and 


two  24-pounders,  under  the  command  of 
Captain  Remmington,  was  constructed 
on  the  plateau  of  the  Ridge  to  protect 
the  operations  going  on  below.  On  the 
night  of  the  7th  the  first  heavy  battery 
was  constructed  at  700  yds.  from  the 
wall.  It  consistedoftwo  parts  connected 
by  a  trench.  The  right  portion  held 
five  heavy  guns  and  a  howitzer,  the  func- 
tion of  which  was  to  demolish  the  Mori 
Bastion.  The  left  held  four  guns  to  keep 
down  the  fire  of  the  Cashmere  Bastion. 
While  darkness  lasted  the  enemy  only 
fired  twice,  but  when  the  morning  re- 
vealed the  British  plans,  the  rebels 
poured  in  a  shower  of  shot  and  shell, 
but  the  English  persevered  in  their 
work,  and  oefore  sunset  the  rebel 
battery  was  silenced.  The  English 
had  lost  70  men  in  the  trenches.  The 
left  section  of  their  battery  maintained 
a  fire  on  the  Cashmere  Bastion  during 
the  greater  part  of  three  days,  but  at  noon 
on  the  10th  it  took  fire  and  the  guns 
were  of  necessity  withdrawn.  By  that 
time  No.  2  Battery  had  been  finished 
— the  left  section  immediately  in  the 
front  of  Ludlow  Castle,  and  the  right 
section  90  yds.  to  the  front  of  it.  Both 
were  within  600  yds.  of  the  city ;  the 
right  section  had  seven  howitzers  and 
two  18-pounders,  and  the  left  section 
nine  24-pounders. 

'*  This  battery  did  not  open  fire  till 
No.  3  Battery  was  completed.  It  was 
built  behind  part  of  the  Custom  House, 
at  180  yds.  from  the  Water  Bastion, 
on  which  it  was  to  play.  The  enemy 
poured  in  such  an  incessant  fire  of 
musketry,  with  occasional  shells,  that 
it  was  impossible  to  work  in  the  day, 
and  difficult  at  ni^ht.  Meantime  a 
powerful  mortar  battery  was  con- 
structed in  the  Kudsiya  Bagh.  At  8 
A.M.  on  the  11th  of  September  the  nine 
24-pounders  in  the  left  section  of  No. 
2  Battery  opened  with  terrific  effect  on 
the  Cashmere  Bastion.  The  enemy  re- 
plied and  severely  wounded  the  com- 
mandant of  the  heavy  guns,  but  their 
fire  was  soon  silenced  by  No.  2  Battery, 
aided  by  the  mortars  in  the  Kudsiya 
Bagh.  Then  the  walls  of  Delhi  began 
to  Mill,  and  whole  yards  of  parapet  came 
down.  At  11  A.M.  on  the  12th  No.  3 
Battery  unmasked^nd  pounded  the 

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136 


ROUTE  6.       BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


Water  Bastion  into  ruins.  All  through 
the  12th  and  13th  the  roar  of  50  heavy 
guns  was  heard  day  and  night,  without 
intermission.  On  the  13th  Alexander 
Taylor,  of  whom  Nicholson  said,  *  If  I 
survive  to-morrow  I  will  let  all  the 
world  know  that  Aleck  Taylor  took 
Delhi,*  announced  that  the  breaches 
were  practicable. 

"The  arrangements  for  storming 
Delhi  were  forUiwith  made.  The  1st 
Column  under  Nicholson  consisted  of 
300  men  of  the  76th  Foot,  250  of  the 
1st  Fusiliers,  and  450  of  the  2d  Panjab 
Infantry.  It  was  to  storm  the  breach 
in  the  curtain  near  the  Cashmere 
Bastion.  The  2d  Column,  under  Brig. 
Jones,  C.B.,  was  to  storm  the  breach 
in  the  Water  Bastion,  and  it  con- 
sisted of  260  men  of  the  8th  Foot, 
250  of  the  2d  Fusiliers,  and  350  of 
the  4th  Sikhs.  The  3d  Column, 
under  Col.  Campbell  of  the  52d, 
was  to  assault  the  Cashmere  Gate, 
and  consisted  of  200  men  of  the  52d 
Foot,  250  of  the  Kumaon  Battalion, 
and  500  of  the  1st  Panjab  Infantry. 
The  4th  Column,  under  Major  Charles 
Reid,  who  so  long  and  gallantly  held 
the  post  at  Hindu  Rao's  house,  was  to 
enter  the  city  by  the  Lahore  Gate.  It 
consisted  of  860  men  of  the  Sirmur 
Battalion,  the  Guides,  and  other  c<^rps. 
The  5th  Column,  the  Reserve,  was  com- 
manded by  Brig.  Longfield,  and  con- 
sisted of  1700  men.  Besides  these  five 
columns,  Hope  Grant  with  600  sabres 
of  the  9th  Lancers  and  Sikh  Horse, 
whose  duty  it  was  to  prevent  sallies 
from  the  Lahore  and  Ajmere  Gates, 
were  for  long  under  heavy  fire. 

**0n  the  night  of  the  13th  Lieuts. 
Medley  and  Lang  explored  the  Cash- 
mere breach,  and  Greathed  and  Home 
that  of  the  Water  Bastion.  The  morn- 
ing of  the  14th  was  fine  and  still. 
Nicholson  laid  his  arm  on  Brig.  Jones's 
shoulder,  and  asked  him  if  he  was 
ready.  He  then  rejoined  his  own 
Column,  gave  the  order  to  storm,  and 
immediately  the  heavy  guns,  which 
were  roanng  at  their  loudest,  became 
silent.  The  Rifles  sounded  the  ad- 
vance, and  the  Ist  and  2d  Columns 
ascended  the  glacis.  The  fire  of  the 
enemy  was  terrible,  and  the  Engineers 


Greathed  and  Ovenden  were  the  first 
to  fall.  The  stormers  carrying  the 
ladders  were  led  by  Captain  Baines 
and  Lieut.  Mel^ e.  When  Baines  reached 
the  Water  Bastion  he  had  only  25 
men  left  out  of  76.  Both  he  and 
Metje  were  carried  disabled  to  the 
rear.  The  1st  Column  was  divided 
into  two  sections.  Nicholson  him- 
self led  one,  and  Col.  Herbert  of 
the  75th  the  other.  Nicholson  was 
the  first  to  mount  the  walL  In  the 
other  section  Lieut.  Fitzgerald,  who 
was  the  first  to  ascend,  was  shot  dead. 
His  place  was  soon  supplied,  and  soon 
both  sections  of  the  1st  Column  had 
carried  the  breach  near  the  Cash- 
mere Bastion,  and  taken  up  their  posi- 
tion at  the  Main  Guara  The  2d 
Column,  entered  by  the  breach  in  the 
Cashmere  curtain,  doubled  along  the 
open  space  to  their  right,*  and  cleared 
the  ramparts  to  the  Mori  Bastion, 
where  the  rebel  gunners  fought  gal- 
lantly, and  were  bayoneted  at  their 
guns.  The  Column  then  advanced 
and  took  the  Kabul  Gate,  on  which  a 
soldier  of  the  61st  planted  a  flag.  From 
the  Lahore  Gate  the  enemy  kept  up  a 
galling  fire.  Nicholson  collected  a 
number  of  men  to  storm  this  gate.  As 
he  advanced  he  found  himself  in  a  long 
nan-ow  lane  lined  with  marksmen  on 
both  sides.  Some  of  the  enemy's  guns 
were  brought  to  bear  on  the  attacking 
column,  and  the  men  fell  fast.  Major 
Jacob  of  the  1st  Fusiliers  received  his 
death -wound.  Captain  Greville  and 
Lieut.  Speke  were  struck  down.  The 
Column  wavered;  Nicholson  rushed  for- 
ward, his  lofty  stature  rendered  him  con- 
spicuous, and  in  a  moment  he  was  shot 
through  the  body,  and  in  spite  of  his  re- 
monstrances was  carried  to  the  rear  todie. 
"  The  3d  Column  had  been  apjjointed 
to  enter  the  city  through  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  which  was  to  be  blown  open  by 
Lieuts.  Home  and  Salkeld,  Seigeants 
Carmichael,  Burgess,  and  Smith.  Home, 
with  his  bugler,  was  first  down  into 
the  ditch.  He  planted  his  bag,  but  as 
Carmichael  advanced  with  his  he  was 
mortally  wounded.  Smith  then  ad- 
vanced, and  placed  his  dying  comrade's 
bag  as  well  as  his  own,  and  prepared 
the  fuzes  for  ignition.     Salkeld  was 

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ready  with  a  slow  match,  but  as  he 
was  lighting  it  he  received  two  bullets, 
and  falling  he  called  on  Smith  to  take 
the  match,  which  was  taken  by  Bur- 
gess, and  Smith  was  in  the  act  of 
giving  him  a  box  of  lucifers  when  Bur- 
gess also  fell  with  a  bullet  through  his 
body.  Smith  was  now  alone,  but  he 
had  struck  a  light,  and  was  applying 
it  when  a  portfire  went  oft'  in  his  face. 
There  was  a  thick  smoke  and  dust, 
then  a  roar  and  a  crash,  as  Smith 
scrambled  into  the  ditch.  There  he 
placed  his  hand  on  Home,  who  said  he 
was  unhurt,  and  having  joined  the 
Column  went  forward.  The  gate  had 
been  shattered,  but  not  so  destroyed 
as  had  been  anticipated.  But  the  8d 
Column  passed  through  it.  Smith 
there  obtained  stretchers,  and  had  Bur- 
gess and  Salkeld  carried  to  the  camp, 
but  both  of  them  died — Burgess  on  tne 
way, and  Salkeld  a  few  days  afterwards." 
Thus  were  the  walls  of  Delhi  won, 
but  before  the  whole  place  was  in  our 
possession  there  was  six  days'  more 
severe  fighting,  which  there  is  not  space 
to  descnbe.  Our  loss  in  these  street 
encounters  was  most  severe,  and  tried 
greatly  our  exhausted  force. 


Itinerary. 

The  sights  of  Delhi  and  its  neigh- 
bourhood cannot  well  be  seen  in  less 
than  3  days.  These  3  days  may  be 
employed  in  the  following  manner  : — 

Ist  Morning. — Fort  and  Palace, 
Jumma  Musjid,  Jain  Temple,  Kalan 
Mttsjid. 

Afternoon. — Drive  to  Ferozabad  and 
Indrapat 

2d  Morning. — Visit  sights  outside 
the  town  in  connection  with  the  Mutiny, 
driving  out  by  the  Cashmere  Gate  and 
returning  by  the  Mori  Gate. 

Afternoon. — Drive  by  Jey  Sing's  Ob- 
servatory to  Safdar  Jang's  Tomb,  round 
by  Tomb  of  Nizamu-din  Auliya  to  that 
of  Humayun,  and  so  back. 

dd  Day. — Starting  early,  drive  to 
Kutb,  stopping  en  route  to  see  the 
Reservoir  of  Hauz-i-Khas.  After  an 
early  luncheon,  proceed  to  Tughlakabad, 
and  back  by  the  Muttra  Road, 


Objects  of  Interest  within  the 
City. 

The  Fort  which  was  built  bv  Shah 
Jehan  in  1638,  has  2  grand  gate- 
ways to  the  W.  The  Lahore  Gate  is 
truly  a  magnificent  building,  and  from 
the  top  is  a  fine  view  looking  W.  to  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  with,  to  its  right,  a 
white  Jaio  temple  and  the  Indian 
town.  Straight  from  the  gate  is  the 
street  called  the  Chandni  Chauk, 
**  Silver  Square."  To  the  right, 
outside  the  city,  are  Hindu  Rao's 
house,  and  the  other  celebrated  places 
on  the  Ridge  ;  and  imni(  diately  to  the 
S.  is  the  Delhi  Gate  of  the  Fort,  very 
similar  in  appearance  and  construction 
to  the  other. 

Passing  under  the  Lahore  gateway, 
the  traveller  will  proceed  due  E.  along 
a  great  arcade  like  a  huge  cathedral, 
but  lined  with  shops  on  each  side,  to 
the  Nakar  Ehana  (A),  beyond  which 
is  the  Diwan-i-'Am  (B),  or  Hall  of 
Public  Audience,  "  open  at  three  sides, 
and  supported  by  rows  of  red  sandstone 
pillars,  formerly  adorned  with  gilding 
and  stucco-work.  In  the  wall  at  the 
back  is  a  staircase  that  leads  up  to 
the  throne,  raised  about  10  ft.  from 
the  ground,  and  covered  by  a  canopy, 
supported  on  four  pillars  of  white 
marble,  the  whole  being  curiously  in- 
laid with  mosaic  work.  Behind  the 
throne  is  a  doorway  by  which  the 
Emperor  entered  from  his  private  apart- 
ments. The  whole  of  the  wall  benind 
the  throne  is  covered  yiiih.  paintings 
and  mosaic,  in  precious  stones,  of  the 
most  beautiful  flowers,  fruits,  birds, 
and  beasts  of  Hindustan.  They  were 
executed  by  Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who, 
after  defrauding  several  of  the  princes 
of  Europe  by  means  of  false  gems,  which 
he  fabricated  with  great  skill,  sought 
refuge  at  the  court  of  Shah  Jehan, 
where  he  made  his  fortune,  and  was  in 
high  favour  with  the  Emperor.  In 
front  of  the  throne,  and  slightly  raised 
above  the  floor  of  the  hall,  is  a  large 
slab  of  white  marble,  which  was  form erlv 
richly  inlaid  with  mosaic  work,  of  which 
the  traces  only  now  remain. "  ^ 

1  Beresford's  Guide  to  DdhLMbQ. 

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138  ROUTE  6.   PLAN  OF  PALAOB  IfM 


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ROUTE  6.      DELHI  CITY 


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The  Diwaa-i-Khas  (D),  or  Private 
Hall  of  Audience,  is  about  100  yds. 
farther  on  to  the  E.,  and  is  a  pavilion 
of  white  marble  open  on  all  sides  and 
richly  ornamented  with  gold  (re^t 
1891)  and  pietra  dura  work.  The  ceilmg 
is  said  to  nave  been  plated  with  silver, 
which  was  carried  otf  by  the  Marathas 
in  1760.  Over  the  N.  and  S.  arches  is 
written  the  famous  Persian  distich : 

If  on  earth  be  an  Eden  of  bliss, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this,  none  but  this. 

In  the  centre  of  the  E.  side  is  the  white 
marble  stand  on  which  the  Takht-i- 
Tans,  or  famous  Peacock  Throne, 
carried  away  by  Nadir  Shah  in  1739, 
rested.  It  is  still  to  be  seen  in  the 
Royal  Palace  at  Teheran.  It  "was 
so  called  from  its  having  the  figures 
of  two  peacocks  standing  behind  it, 
their  tails  being  expanded,  and  the 
whole  so  inlaid  with  sapphires,  rubies, 
emeralds,  pearls,  and  other  precious 
stones  of  appropriate  colours,  as  to 
iqiresent  li^.  The  throne  itseK  was 
•  ft.  long  by  4  ft  broad ;  it  stood 
9t  six  massive  feet,  which,  with  the 
-  kdy,  were  of  solid  gold,  inlaid  with 
.Mhies,  emeralds,  and  diamonds.  It 
lis  surmounted  by  a  canopy  of  gold, 
si^ported  by  twelve  pillars,  all  richly 
emblazoned  with  costly  gems,  and 
a  fringe  of  pearls  ornamented  the 
borders  of  the  canopy.  Between  the 
two  peacocks  stood  the  figure  of  a 
parrot  of  the  ordinary  size,  said  to 
We  been  carved  out  of  a  single 
emerald.  On  either  side  of  the  throne 
stood  an  umbrella,  one  of  the  Oriental 
emblems  of  royalty.  They  were  formed 
of  crimson  velvet  richly  embroidered 
»ik1  fringed  with  pearls ;  the  handles 
were  8  ft.  high,  of  solid  cold,  and 
stadded  with  diamonds.  The  throne 
was  planned  and  executed  under  the 
supervision  of  Austin  de  Bordeaux, 
already  mentioned  in  connection  with 
the  Diwan-i-*Am." 

The  Baman  Bnzj  (G)  and  Bang  Mahal 

(C),  to  the  S.  of  the  Diwan-i-Khas,  has 
in  the  centre  of  its  N.  wall  a  richly 
carved  and  gilt  screen,  with  a  small 
window  in  the  middle,  and  above,  the 
Mizan-i-Insaf,  or  "scales  of  justice," 


The  ladies*  apartments  here  are  of 
white  marble,  beautifully  inlaid  below, 
with  fresco-work  above,  and  adorned 
with  gilded  scrolls.  In  the  old  days, 
as  is  explained  by  the  verses,  they  were 
surrounded  by  a  formal  Oriental  garden 
and  fountains.  The  palace  must  then 
have  been  more  beautiful  than  any- 
thing in  the  East  that  we  know  of.  Now 
everything  has  been  cleared  away ;  even 
the  houses  have  been  removed,  and  the 
buildings  that  are  left  have  become 
quarters  for  the  English  soldiers. 
Viewing  the  detached  remnants  of  the 
royal  residence  as  they  now  stand,  it  is 
difficult  to  realise  the  general  idea  on 
which  the  ground  was  laid  out,  but  this 
will  be  rendered  more  easy  by  an  exam- 
ination of  the  accompanying  native  plan 
of  the  palace  in  its  splendour,  from  a 
plate  in  Fergusson's  Indian  Architec- 
tv/re. 

A  shallow  channel  for  water  runs 
firom  the  Baths  beneath  the  Diwan-i- 
Khas  across  the  open  courtyard  to  the 
Saman  Bun.  The  Baths  (F),  called  the 
'Akab  Baths,  are  a  little  to  the  N.  of 
the  Diwan-i-Khas.  They  consist  of  3 
large  rooms,  floored  with  white  marble, 
elaborately  inlaid  with  pietra  dura 
work,  and  crowned  with  white  marble 
domes.  In  the  centre  of  each  room 
there  is  a  fountain,  and  in  the  wall  of 
one  of  them  a  reservoir  of  marble. 
These  baths  were  lighted  by  windows 
of  coloured  glass  in  the  roof. 

Opposite  to  them,  to  the  W.,  is  the 
Moti  Musjid(E), or  the  " Peari  Mosque," 
an  architectural  gem  of  white  and  gray 
marble.  It  has  a  bronze  door  covered 
with  designs  in  low  relief,  and  the 
fa9ade  has  three  arches.  The  mosque 
proper  has  three  arches,  and  is  divided 
into  two  aisles.  The  arches  display 
some  Hindu  influence.  The  walls  are 
most  delicately  decorated  with  low 
reliefs.  Saiyad  Ahmad  says  it  was 
built  in  1635  A.D.  by  Aurangzib,  and 
cost  160,000  rs. 

The  rest  of  the  palace  has  been  cleared 
away  to  make  room  for  barracks,  etc. 

Jamma  Musjid.— This  mosque  is 
said  to  be  unrivalled  for  size.  Mr. 
Fergusson  says  it  "is  not  unlike  the 
Moti   Musjid   in   the  Agra   Fort  in 

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plan,  though  built  on  a  very  much 
larger  scale,  and  adorned  with  two 
noble  minarets,  which  are  wanting 
in  the  Agra  example ;  while  from  the 
somewhat  capricious  admixture  of 
red  sandstone  with  white  marble 
it  is  far  from  possessing  the  same 
elegance  and  purity  of  effect.  It  is, 
however,  one  of  the  few  mosques,  either 
in  India  or  elsewhere,  that  is  designed 
to  produce  a  pleasing  effect  externally. 
It  IS  raised  on  a  lofty  basement,  and  its 
three  gateways,  combined  with  the  four 
angle  towers  and  the  frontispiece  and 
domes  of  the  mosque  itself,  make  up  a 
design  where  all  the  parts  are  pleasingly 
subordinated  to  one  another,  but  at  the 
same  time  produce  a  whole  of  great 
variety  and  elegance.  Its  principal 
gateway  cannot  be  compared  with 
that  at  Fatehpur  -  Sikri,  but  it  is 
a  noble  portal,  and  from  its  smaller 
dimensions  more  in  harmony  with  the 
objects  by  which  it  is  surrounded.** 
The  gateways  are  surmounted  with 
galleries,  on  th^  roof  of  which  are  fif- 
teen marble  domes,  with  spires  tipped 
with  gold.  Above  these  are  six  fluted 
marble  minarets,  with  open  arched 
chambers  at  the  top,  and  surmounted 
with  gilt  pinnacles.  These  three  noble 
gateways  are  approached  by  grand 
flights  of  steps,  unrivalled  elsewhere. 
As  of  old  only  the  Mogul  Emperor 
could  enter  the  main  gateway,  so  now 
only  the  Viceroy  of  the  Queen-Empress 
may  do  so.  Hence  it  remains  shut 
save  on  a  Viceroy*8  visit. 

The  doors  are  massive  and  overlaid 
with  brass  arabesques  half  an  inch  thick, 
giving  access  to  a  stately  quadrangle, 
325  ft.  square,  in  the  centre  of  which 
are  a  marble  basin  and  fountain. 
Round  three  sides  of  the  quadrangle 
i-uns  an  open  sandstone  cloister,  16  ft. 
wide,  with  pillars  of  the  same  material. 
The  mosque  proper  is  201  ft.  long  and 
120  ft.  broad.  The  inscription  gives 
the  date  in  Arabic  as  1658  a.d.,  the 
year  in  which  Aurangzib  deposed  his 
father,  Shah  Jehan. 

Five  thousand  workmen  were  em- 
ployed for  six  years  in  the  construction 
of  this  mosque.  At  the  N.E.  corner  is 
a  pavilion  in  which  are  placed  relics  of 
Mohammed.    The  traveller  must  not 


forget  to  ask  to  see  the  MSS.  and  leHcs 
here.  There  is  a  Koran  written  in 
Kufik  of  the  time  of  'Ali,  that  is  in  the 
7th  century  of  our  era  ;  one  written  by 
the  Imam  Husain,  very  clear  and  well 
preserved  ;  one  written  by  the  Imam 
Hasan,  the  pages  of  which  are  much 
crumpled  at  the  beginning ;  the  Kafsh- 
i-Mubarak  or  "Prophet*8  Slipper,**  filled 
with  jasmine  ;  the  Kadmu'l  Mubarak, 
"  Footprint  of  the  Prophet  **  imprinted 
on  a  stone ;  Mui-i-Mubarak,  a  hair  of 
the  Prophet's  moustaches  ;  and  part  of 
the  canopy  over  the  Prophet's  tomb. 
The  two  minarets  rise  to  the  height  of 
130  ft.  They  contain  staircases,  and 
the  ascent  to  the  top  is  easy.  At  the 
top  are  small  pavilions,  from  which  the 
whole  city  can  be  viewed. 

Chandni  Chauk,  which  is  the  princi- 
pal street  of  the  city,  runs  from  E.  to 
W.  in  almost  a  direct  line  from  the 
Lahore  Gate  of  the  Fort  to  the  Lahore 
Gate  in  the  W.  wall  of  the  city.  It  is 
lined  with  fine  trees,  and  has  a  covered 
aqueduct  running  along  the  middle. 
Tne  chief  articles  of  native  manufac- 
ture are  jewellery  and  embroidery  in 
gold  and  silver,  and  the  best  shops  are 
in  this  street.  In  the  centre  of  the 
Chandni  Chauk  is  the  Northbrook 
Fountain.  The  Mosque  of  Roshanu- 
daulah,  also  called  the  Sonala  or 
"  Qolden  Mosque,"  from  its  three  gilt 
domes,  is  close  to  this  fountain.  It  was 
built  in  Muhammad  Shah*s  reign,  by 
Roshanu-daulah  Zafar  Khan  in  1721 
A.D.  It  is  a  small  but  beautiful  build- 
ing, and  on  it  Nadir  Shah  sat  during 
the  massacre  at  Delhi.  The  KotwaU 
is  next  to  it,  and  it  was  here  that 
Hodson  exposed  the  bodies  of  the  Delhi 
Princes  whom  he  had  killed.  At  the 
W.  end  of  the  Chandni  Chauk  is  the 
Fatehpuri  Mosque.  It  was  built  in 
1 650  A.D.  by  Fatehpuri  Begam,  wife  of 
Shah  Jchan.  It  is  of  red  sandstone. 
There  are  two  minarets  105  ft.  high. 
The  Mor  (or  Queen's)  Sarai,  in  Queen's 
Road,  near  the  rly.  sta.,  is  a  modem 
structure  buUt  by  the  Municipal  Com- 
mittee at  a  cost  of  100,570  rs.  for  the 
accommodation  of  native  travellers. 

Close  by  are  the  Queen's  €kurde&8. 
They  have  the  Chandni  Chauk  skirting 
them  to  the  S.,  and  face  the  rly.  and 

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sta.  on  tlie  N.  They  are  laid  out  with 
beantifol  trees  and  shrubs  of  all  kinds, 
and  in  them  stands  a  huge  stone  ele- 
phant On  the  platform  upon  which  it 
is  raised  is  an  inscription  stating  that  it 
was  brought  from  Gwalior,  and  set  up 
outside  the  south  gate  of  his  new  palace 
by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan,  1646  A.D. 

A  legend  relates  that  the  two  famous 
Rajput  chiefs,  Jaimall  and  Patta,  who 
defended  Chitor  against  Akbar,  were 
represented  by  stone  figures  riding  on 
this  and  another  elephant  which  has 
been  lost.  Akbar  himself  killed  Jai- 
mall, and  set  up  the  elephants,  with 
the  two  warriors  riding  on  them, 
at  Agra.  Shah  Jehan  brought  them 
to  Delhi  They  were  mutilated  by 
Aurangzib  and  lost  sight  of.  The  two 
figures  are  now  in  the  verandah  of  the 
Kuseom  of  the  Institute,  which  con- 
tains little  of  interest  except  portraits 
of  the  two  Lawrences,  Sir  it  Mont- 
gomery, Nicholson,  Lord  Metcalfe,  Lord 
Canning,  and  others—poor  pictures,  but 
better  than  none.  The  Clock  Tower 
adjoins  this  building,  and  stands  in  the 
Ch&ndni  Chauk.  It  is  of  red  sand- 
stone, 128  ft.  high. 

The  Kalan  Musjid,  or  Black  Mosque, 
to  the  S.  of  the  town  near  the  Turku- 
man  Gate,*  is  well  worthy  of  a  visit  as 
one  of  the  most  perfect  specimens  of 
the  age  of  Feroz  Shah  Tughlak,  1386. 

On  the  outside,  the  building  consists 
of  two  stories,  of  which  the  lower, 
forming  a  kind  of  plinth  to  the  actual 
place  of  worship,  is  28  ft.  high,  the 
total  height  to  the  top  of  the  battle- 
ments being  66  ft.  *  *  The  sloping  style 
of  the  architecture  seems  peculiarly 
illustrative  of  the  buildings  of  that  and 
earlier  periods.  The  sloping  pilasters 
on  each  side  of  the  main  entrance  give 
Bwnewhat  of  an  Egyptian  appearance 
to  the  front  of  the  building,  which  is 
not  dissimilar  from  those  of  the  more 
ancient  remains  of  Hindu  architecture. 
.  .  .  The  peculiar  construction  of  the 
arches  and  domes,  the  stones  of  which 

1  The  Torktunan  Gate  has  its  name  from  a 
saint  called  Shah  Turkaman,  who  was  styled 
the  "  Sun  of  Devotees. "  He  died  in  638  a.  h.  = 
1240  A.D.,  in  the  time  of  Muizza-din  Bahram 
Shah,  lliere  is  a  pavement  round  his  tomb, 
and  cm  the  24th  of  R^jab  a  great  ikir  is  held 


are  held  together  by  the  wonderful 
adhesive  qualities  of  the  lime  used  in 
those  days,  without  any  keystones,  is 
characteristic  of  the  Mohammedan 
Indian  buildings  of  the  14th  cent" 
(Carr  Stephen).  The  walls,  which  are 
very  thick,  have  in  the  upper  story  a 
number  of  openings,  filled  with  red 
stone  screens,  now  much  mutilated. 
There  is  a  stern  look  about  this  sombre 
unadorned  building,  the  plan  of  which 
Bishop  Heber  say^s  **is  exactly  that  of 
the  original  Arabian  mosques — a  square 
court  surrounded  by  a  cloister  and 
roofed  with  many  small  domes  of  the 
plainest  and  most  solid  construction." 

The  Jain  Temple,  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
Jumma  Musjid  (about  end  of  last  cent. ) 
is  approached  by  narrow  streets,  and 
stands  upon  a  high  walled  platform 
gained  by  narrow  steps.  It  consists  of 
a  small  marble  court  surrounded  by  a 
stucco  colonnacfe  in  front  of  the  temple 
proper,  which  rises  breast-high  above 
the  court  and  is  surmounted  by  an 
oblong  dome.  Within,  the  ceiling  and 
walls  are  richly  gilded,  and  are  sup- 
ported by  two  rows  of  small  marble 
columns.  In  the  centre  of  the  temple 
is  a  pyramidal  platform  in  3  tiers,  upon 
which  rests  a  small  figure  of  Buddha, 
seated  beneath  an  elaborate  ivory 
canopy.  In  the  porch,  Fergusson 
draws  particular  attention  to  the  ex- 
quisite device  of  filling  in  the  back  of 
the  struts  which  support  the  architrave 
beneath  the  dome — characteristic  of 
Jain  architecture — with  foliated  tracery. 

The  Cambridge  Mission  to  Delhi 
was  sent  out  from  the  University  in 
1 876.  The  members  live  in  community 
at  the  Mission  House  near  the  United 
Service  Hotel.  They  work  among  the 
natives  in  connection  with  the  S.P.G. 
which  has  an  old-established  station 
here.  The  Mission  Compound  and  St. 
Stephen's  Mission  Church  are  close  to 
the  railway  station.  The  two  Missions 
conjointly  have  charge  of  St  Stephen's 
College^  of  a  native  boys*  boarding 
school  with  600  pupils,  and  seversu 
day  schools. 

The  S.P.G.  has  also  a  Medical  Mis- 
sion here. 


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ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


InAia 


Sites  in  oonnbotion  with  the 
Mutiny  and  Siege  op  1857. 

The  Bidge  is  outside  the  city  about  1 
m .  to  the  N.  W.  The  traveller  driving 
there  from  the  rlv.  sta.  will  pass  the 
following  objects  of  interest  on  nis  way. 

Near  the  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices 
are  the  8  Gateways  of  the  Arsenal, 
which  was  blown  up  by  Willoughby 
on  the  11th  May  1857.  They  have 
been  left  standing  in  meTnoriam.  From 
what  remains  it  is  evident  that  it  was 
a  fine  building. 

St.  James's  Memorial  Church,  rt., 
was  erected  at  the  sole  expense  of  Colonel 
Skinner,  as  recorded  in  a  tablet  on  left 
of  entnince.  Another  tablet  records 
that  he  died  at  Hansi  in  1841,  and  was 
buried  in  this  church  in  1842.  It  is  a 
rotunda,  with  four  large  porticoes  sup- 
ported by  pillars. 

In  the  church  are  a-large  number  of 
tablets  of  unusual  interest,  some  to 
commemorate  regimental  losses,  some 
in  remembrance  of  whole  families,  and 
others  in  memory  of  individuals.  It  is 
a  sad  list ;  a  record  of  evil  times. 

Beyond  to  the  W.  is  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  which  was  blown  in  on  the 
morning  of  14th  September,  and  the 
site  of  the  breaches  close  to  it  through 
which  the  storming  columns  Nos.  1 
and  2  pass.ed.  On  a  slab  set  up  by 
Lord  Napier  of  Me^dala,  just  outside 
the  gate,  the  event  is  described. 

Just  inside  the  Cashmere  Gate  was 
posted  the  Main  Guard  at  the  time  of 
the  Delhi  Mutiny. 

Outside  the  Cashmere  Gate,  the 
Kudsiya  Gardens  are  about  300  yds. 
to  the  N. ;  they  are  prettily  laid  out. 
Near  them  in  the  Cemetery,  close  to  the 
entrance,  is  the  tomb  of  General  Nichol- 
son, one  of  the  greatest  heroes  of  India. 

*<  Who  led  the  assault  of  Delhi,  bat  feU 

In  the  hour  of  victory. 

Mortally  wounded, 

And  died  23d  of  September  1857. 

Aged  86  years." 

There  is  a  splendid  monument  to 
Nicholson  in  tne  Puigab,  near  Rawal 
Pindi,  but  this  is  the  place  where  his 
body  was  actually  interred.  At  the 
end  farthest  from  the  entrance  is  a 
memorial  cross  26  ft.  high. 


Just  beyond  the  Cemetery  is  Lud- 
low Castle,  a  large  house  which  was 
the  residence  of  Simon  Frazer,  the  mur- 
dered Commissioner  of  Delhi.  There 
are  two  blocks  of  masonry  in  the  com- 
pound inscribed  as  follows : — 

No.  2  Battery,  Left, 

With  armament  nine  24-poander8, 

Mi^or  Campbell,  B.A.,  commanding. 

To  breach  curtain  of  Cashmere  Bastion. 

The  2d  block  is  160  yds.  to  the  S.E. 
and  close  to  the  cemetery  wall : — 

No.  2  Battery,  Right, 

Armament  two  IS-pounders  and 

Seven  8-inch  howitzers. 

Major  Edward  Eats,  B.A.,  commanding 

Ludlow  Castle  was  a  post  of  importance 
in  the  closing  scene  of  the  siege  of  Delhi, 
as  will  be  seen  from  the  historical  sum- 
mary above.  Continuing  along  the 
Alipur  Road,  at  some  little  distance  the 
traveller  will  pass  Metcalfe  House  on 
the  right,  and  shortly  after  will  reach 
the  Ridge  Road,  which  commands  a  fine 
view.  Here  is  the  Flag-staif  Battery, 
a  castellated  tower,  now  quite  empty. 

Turning  at  an  acute  angle  to  the  S.E. 
the  Second  Kcquet,  300  yds.  to  the  S.,  is 
reached,  and  400  yds.  farther  in  the  same 
direction  is  a  mosque,  where  the  Mosque 
Picqnet  was  stationed.  The  building 
is  now  a  picturesc|[ue  ruin.  It  is  a 
Pathan  mosque,  with  the  remains  of 
the  battery  in  front.  200  yds.  to  the 
S.E.  is  Hindn  Bao's  Honse,  which  is 
now  used  as  a  convalescent  hospital  for 
soldiers.  It  is  a  large  white  bungalow. 
About  200  yds.  S.  of  it  is  Asoka's  Pillar. 

Asoka's  PiUar. — On  the  pedestal  is 
a  tablet  stating  that  this  pillar  was 
originally  erected  at  Meerut,  in  the  3d 
century  before  Christ,  by  King  Asoka. 
It  was  removed  thence,  and  set  ud  in 
the  Eushak  Shikar  Palace,  near  this, 
by  the  Emperor  Feroz  Shah,  1356  a.d.  ; 
thrown  down  and  broken  into  five 
pieces  by  the  explosion  of  a  powder 
magazine  in  1713-19.  It  was  removed 
and  set  up  in  this  place  by  the  British 
Government  1867  (see  vol.  v.  of  the 
Arch.  Bep. )  There  are  two  of  Asoka's 
pillars  at  Delhi,  this  one  and  another 
standing  on  the  top  of  a  building  in 
Feroz  Shah's  Eotila,  in  Ferozabad  (see 
below).  Both  of  these  pillars  were 
brought  to  Delhi  by  Feroz  Shah.     The 


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ftOUTE  6.      OLD  DBLHI  AND  l^EiaHBOUBHOOD 


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small  inficriptions  on  this  pillar  are 
dated  Samwat  1369=1312  A.i>.  ;  Sam- 
wat  1416=1359  A.D.  ;  Samwat  1681  = 
1524  A.D.  All  the  lon^  inscriptions 
are  given  at  the  end  of  Saiyad  Amnad's 
Guide. 

The  Mutiny  MunoriaL— This  is  400 
yds.  fjEtfther  on  along  the  Ridge,  and 
is  of  red  sandstone.  It  forms  an  octa- 
gonal Gothic  spire,  standing  on  three 
HiminiBhing  platforms,  with  seven  win- 
dows, and  was  erected  to  commemorate 
the  events  of  the  siege,  the  names  of 
the  regiments  and  baUeries  who  served 
at  it,  and  of  the  officers  who  died  in  the 
performance  of  their  duty.  Ascending 
to  the  top  of  the  building,  the  traveller 
will  gain  a  complete  view  of  the  posi- 
tion. In  the  plain  to  the  N.  of  the 
Ridge  is  the  spot  where  H.  M.  the  Queen 
of  England  was  proclaimed  Empress  of 
India  on  the  1st  of  January  1877.  On 
that  day  Lord  Lytton  occupied  a  place 
in  a  centre  pavilion,  with  an  amphi- 
theatre in  front  of  him  in  which  were 
all  the  feudatory  princes  and  chiefs  of 
India,  while  at  his  back  sat  the  leading 
European  officials  and  envoys  from 
places  even  as  distant  as  Siam,  and  to 
the  W.  an  army  of  about  60,000  men, 
British  and  Indian,  was  drawn  up. 

Turning  from  the  Ridge  S.  by  the 
drcular  road,  the  traveller  may  re-enter 
the  eity  by  the  Mori  Gate,  close  to 
lAidi  IS  seen  the  Mori  Bastion,  from 
^ihich  the  rebels  maintained  so  terrible 
a  fire  till  the  storming. 

Old  Dslhi  and  thb  Neiohboubhood. 

The  Idgah  is  west  of  the  city  about 
"1  m.  from  the  walls,  and  not  far  off  is 
^Kadam  Sharif,  or  "Holy  Footstep" 
^bo  called  the  Farash  Ehana),  where 
VMe  is  the  tomb  of  Prince  Fateh  Ehan, 
boat  hj  his  father  Feroz  Shah  in  1374. 
There  is  also  a  Mosque,  College,  and 
'  o&er  buildings,  and  a  miraculous  im- 
press of  the  Irophet's  foot,  said  to  have 
mea.  brought  from  Mecca  by  the  young 
^l^lsee's  tutor. 

The  Jail  is  J  m.  S.  of  the  Delhi  Gate, 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  to 
Ferozabad.  It  was  an  old  Caravansarai, 
and  the  walls  are  26  ft.  high,  and  very 
massiTe.  Paper,  mats,  carpets,  and 
bedding  are  made  in  the  workshops. 


To  the  E.  about  260  yds.  from  the 
jail  is  the  fort  of  Ferozabad,  built  by 
Feroz  Shah  Tughlak,  1354.  It  is  now 
utterly  ruined,  but  must  have  been  a 
strong  place  in  the  old  time  when  it 
was  the  citadel  of  a  city  which  extended 
from  the  fort  of  Indrapat  to  the  Eushak 
Shikar,  or  "Hunting  Palace,"  near 
Hindu  Rao's  house,  where  the  other 
Pillar  of  Asoka,  called  the  Delhi  Meerut 
Pillar,  now  stands.  The  three-storied 
buildinff  called  Eotila  (see  below), 
stands  due  N.  and  S.,  at  }  m.  to  the 
W.  of  the  Jumna.  The  tihree  stories 
diminish  in  area  as  they  rise. 

The  Lat,  or  Asoka  pillar  erected  on 
the  roof,  is  broken  at  the  top  in  a 
jageed  way.  Cunningham  calls  it  the 
Ddhi-Siwalik  Pillar,  as  it  was  brought 
from  Tophar  at  the  foot  of  the  Siwalik 
Hills,  where  the  Jumna  enters  the  plains. 
It  is  a  monolith  of  pink  sandstone,  but 
the  people  of  the  locality  called  it 
{Kurwnd)  corundum  stone.  "When 
the  pillar  was  fixed,  the  top  was  orna- 
mented with  black  and  white  stone- 
work surmounted  by  a  gilt  pinnacle, 
from  which  no  doubt  it  received 
its  name  of  Minar  Zarin  or  'Golden 
Minaret.'  This  gilt  pinnacle  was  still 
in  its  place  in  1611  a.d.,  as  when 
William  Finch  in  that  year  visited 
Delhi,  he  described  the  pillar  as  passing 
through  three  several  stories,  rising  24 
ft.  above  them  all,  having  on  the  top  a 
globe  surmounted  by  a  crescent. "  The 
pillar  is  10  ft.  10  m.  round,  where  it 
issues  from  the  roof,  and  the  total  height 
is  42  ft.  7  in.,  of  which  4  ft.  1  in.  is 
sunk  in  the  masonry.  At  10  ft.  1  in. 
from  the  roof  are  some  Nagri  inscrip- 
tions, with  the  dates  in  two  of  them, 
Samwat  1681  =  1624  a.d.  These  must 
have  been  inscribed  after  the  removal 
of  the  pillar  to  DelM.  The  others 
were  written  at  Tophar.  Above  these 
Nagri  inscriptions  is  the  Pali,  which 
contains  the  edict  of  Asoka  prohibiting 
the  taking  of  life.  The  Pali  inscription 
dates  from  the  middle  of  the  3d  century 
B.a,  and  the  characters  are  of  the  oldest 
form  that  has  yet  been  found  in  India. 
Though  it  is  very  clearly  written,  when 
Feroz  Shah  assembled  all  the  learned 
of  the  day  to  decipher  the  inscription, 
they  were  unable  to  do  so.    The  last  ten 

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ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


lines  on  the  K  face,  as  well  as  the  whole 
of  the  continuous  inscription  round  the 
shaft,  are  peculiar  to  this  pillar,  other- 
wise the  inscription  is  to  the  same 
pui*port  as  those  on  the  pillars  of  Gimar 
and  Allahabad.  There  is  a  second  in- 
scription, which  records  the  victories 
of  the  Chauhan  Prince  Visaladeva, 
whose  power  extended  from  Himadri 
to  Vindhya.  This  record  consists  of 
two  portions,  the  shorter  one  immedi- 
ately above  Asoka's  edicts,  and  the 
longer  immediately  below  them.  Both 
are  dated  Samwat  1220  =  1163  A.D.,  and 
refer  to  the  same  prince.  The  minor 
inscriptions  are  of  little  interest. 

Indrapat  or  Purana  Killa  (Old 
Fort).— At  2  m.  S.  of  the  Delhi  Gate, 
the  traveller  (having  passed  rt.  the  fine 
gateway  of  Lai  Darwazah)  will  come  to 
the  Old  Fort,  on  the  site  of  Indra- 
prastha,  the  ancient  city  of  Yudish- 
thira,  which  fort  was  repaired  by 
Humayun,  who  changed  its  name  to 
Dinpanah.  The  walls  of  the  Old  Fort 
have  crumbled  in  many  places,  and  it 
certainly  has  the  appearance  of  great 
antiquity.  There  have  been  several 
gates,  but  all  are  closed  save  one  to 
the  S.W.,  reached  by  a  steep  incline. 
The  Killa  Kona  Mosque,  the  chief  ob- 
ject of  interest,  is,  Fergusson  says,  one 
of  the  most  satisfactory  buildings  of  its 
class  in  India.  It  is  a  noble  specimen 
of  the  late  Pathan  period,  in  which 
"every  detail  was  fitted  to  its  place 
and  its  purpose.  We  forget  the  Hindu 
except  in  its  delicacy,  and  we  recognise 
one  of  the  completed  architectural 
styles  of  the  world."  It  is  bi^  and 
bold  with  huge  arches  and  sharp  fanely- 
cut  mouldings.  To  reach  it  you  pass 
along  a  lane  between  poor  houses.  It 
was  built  by  Sher  Shah  in  948  a.h.= 
1541  A.D.  It  is  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid 
with  marble  and  slate,  and  covered  with 
inscriptions,  texts  from  the  Koran,  in 
the  Naskh  and  Kufik  characters.  In 
the  alcoves  and  other  parts  the  inlaid 
work  is  very  beautiful.  The  facade  is 
about  150  ft.  long,  and  consists  of  5 
bays.  The  pendentives  of  the  vaulting 
are  remarkably  fine  and  should  not 
escape  notice,  and  the  struts  which 
support  the  side  bays,  which  are  oblong 
in  plan  and  not  square    are  curious. 


The  white  marble  Eiblah  is  covered 
with  texts,  which  are  marvels  of  oali- 
graphy.  In  the  angle  towers  it  the 
back  of  the  mosque  are  octasonal 
pavilions  richly  ornamented  with  ex- 
quisite designs  in  red  sandstone.  To 
the  S.  is  an  octagonal  building  of  red 
sandstone  called  the  Sher  Manail,  70  ft 
high.  In  963  A.H.  =  1655  A.D.  Huina- 
yun  placed  his  library  here.  On  that 
very  night  it  was  understood  that 
Venus  would  rise,  and  the  Emperor, 
wishing  to  see  it,  fell  down  the  staircase 
and  died  a  few  days  afterwards  of  the 
injuries  he  received. 

Tomb  of  Nizam-ud-din  AuUyaisabout 
1  m.  S.  of  Indrapat,  and  stands  within 
an  enclosure  surrounded  by  other  tombi 
and  sacred  buildings.  The  traveller 
must  leave  his  carriage  and  walk 
through  ruins  to  an  archway.  At  30 
yds.  from  this  is  the  Chausath  Khamba, 
or  **  Hall  of  64  Pillars,"  the  resting- 
place  of  'Azizah  Kokal  Tash,  foster 
brother  of  the  Emperor  Akbar.  It  is 
all  of  white  marble  ;  and  the  "chased 
style  in  which  the  pillars  are  oma-l 
mented,  the  well -finished  groined' 
arches,  and  the  beautiful  screens,  form 
an  uncommonly  beautiful  sight' 
Azizah's  cenotaph,  also  of  white  marblej 
bearing  the  date  1623,  is  at  the  W. 
end  ;  beyond  it  is  that  of  his  mother, 
and  tliere  are  eight  others. 

To  the  W.  of  the  Chausath  KhamH 
is  an  enclosure  in  which  is  the  Dargu 
of  Nizam-ud-din.  The  first  thing  oi 
entering  to  be  noticed  is  the  tomb  of  th( 
Amir  Khusrau  the  poet.  The  real  namj 
of  this  personage  was  Abu  '1  Hasan,  an( 
he  was  called  Tuti-i-Hind,  "  Parrot  i 
Hindustan,"  from  the  sweetness  of  hi 
style.  His  grandfather,  a  Turk,  cami 
to  Hindustan  from  Trans -oxyana,  ii 
the  time  of  Changiz  Khan,  and  died  a 
Delhi,  leaving  a  son  named  Amir  Mah 
mud,  or  according  to  others,  SaiiO 
din,  who  was  high  in  the  favour  of  th 
Emperor  Tughlak  Shah.  He  perishej 
in  battle  against  the  Hindus.  His  m 
Amir  Khusrau  succeeded  to  the  royi 
favour,  and  eiyoyed  the  confidence  j 
patronage  of  seven  successive  empen 
He  became  so  famous  that  it  is  r 
that  S'adi,  the  celebrated  Persian  \ 
i  visited  India  for  the  sole  purpose  ( 


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BOUTB  6.       OLD  DELHI  AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD 


145 


seeing  Mm.  He  was  the  author  of  98 
works,  of  which  the  greater  part  are 
lost.  His  songs  are  still  in  popular 
use.    He  died  at  Delhi  in  1315. 

At  the  N.  end  of  the  small  square 
building  which  forms  Ehusrau's  tomb 
is  a  tall  white  marble  slab,  on  which  is 
written,  first  the  Moslem  Creed,  and 
then  18  Persian  couplets.  N.  of  this 
tomb  is  that  of  Mirza  JehcmgiTf  son  of 
Akbap  Shah  II.  There  are,  as  custo- 
dians of  the  tombs  here,  50  descendants 
of  Nizama-din's  sister.  The  saint  him- 
self never  married.  The  family  are 
Sufis.  The  tomb  is  of  white  marble, 
and  the  handsome  lattice-work  is  of  the 
same  material.  It  is  on  the  right  of 
the  entrance  into  the  enclosure,  and  the 
tomb  of  Muhammad  Shah  is  on  the 
left  Muhammad  Shah  was  the  em- 
peror whom  Nadir  Shah  despoiled  of 
immense  treasures. 

To  the  S.  of  it  is  the  tomb  of  the 
tmlypious  andheavenly-minded«7<3^n- 
am,  daughter  of  Shah  Jehan.  At 
the  W.  end  is  a  headstone  6  ft.  high, 
OB  which  at  top  is  in  Arabic,  **  God  is 
the  life  and  the  resurrection,"  followed 
by  the  letter  Mim,  one  of  the  mystical 
letters  of  the  Koran,  under  which  is  a 
Persian  insoriptioii  as  follows : — ; 

Save  the  green  herb,  place  naught  above  my 

head, 
Such  pall  alone  beflta  the  lowly  dead ; 
'Rtt  fleeting  poor  Jehanara  lies  here. 
Her  sire  was  Shah  Jehan  and  Ghist  her  Fir. 
May  God  the  Ghazi  monarch's  proof  make 

dcir. 

The  yerses  end  with  a  conventional 
fifle,  which  expresses  a  prayer  for  her 
&ther.    The  date  is  1681. 

The  holy  men  of  Chist  are  the  family 
teibed  in  connection  with  the  Dargah 
•tijmere. 

On  the  left  of  Jehanara's  tomb  is  that 
irf'Ali  Gkiuhar  Mirza,  son  of  Shah  *Alam, 
Od  on  the  right  that  of  Jamilu 
Ifisa,  daughter  of  Akbar  Shah  II. 
!  The  building  covering  the  tomb  of 
iTizamu-din,  the  greatest  of  the  re- 
Bowned  Chisti  saints,  is  of  white 
tearble;  it  is  18  ft.  sq.,  and  has  a 
^hdah  8  ft.  broad,  built  by  Mir 
lOran's  son.  The  date  is  1063  a.h.= 
K(2  A.D. 
Over  the  actual  cenotaph  is  a  wooden 
[India] 


canopy,  and  as  usual  with  tombs  ot 
great  personages  it  is  covered  with  a 
cloth.  The  lattice-work  screens  of  white 
marble  are  exquisitely  carved,  and  the 
verandah  is  ornamented  with  a  painted 
flower  scroll.  To  the  W.  two  fine  trees 
overshadow  the  building,  and  a  few 
yards  to  the  S.  of  them  is  a  Kirni  tree, 
said  to  be  as  old  as  the  time  of  Nizamu- 
din. 

N.  of  this  is  a  Well  with  galleries, 
built  by  the  saint,  who  is  said  to  have 
blessed  it,  so  that  no  one  who  dives  in  it 
is  ever  drowned.  The  usual  depth  is  39 
ft.  Into  this  men  and  boys  sprmg  from 
the  roofs  and  walls  of  the  adjacent  build- 
ing, coming  down  from  a  height  of  50  ft. 

On  the  E.  side  of  the  tomb  enclosure 
is  a  square  marble  cistern,  holding 
perhaps  twelve  gallons,  which  when  a 
person  desires  to  make  an  offering  has 
to  be  filled  with  a  mixture  of  rice, 
sugar,  milk,  and  other  good  things. 
On  one  occasion,  when  the  writer  sat 
reading  in  the  mosque,  one  of  the 
principal  dancing  women  of  Delhi 
arrived  to  pay  her  devotions,  accom- 
panied by  her  mother  and  her  attendant 
musicians,  and  bringing  the  food  in  a 
very  large  iron  pot  with  her.  Whilst 
this  was  preparing  she  dressed  herself 
in  cloth  of  gold  and  danced  for  a  long 
time  before  the  tomb  of  Khusrau,  and 
afterwards  for  a  shorter  time  before 
that  of  Nizamu-din.  When  this  part  of 
the  ceremony  was  over,  the  food  which 
had  been  placed  in  the  marble  vessel  was 
distributed  in  a  very  orderly  manner 
to  every  one  connected  with  the  place, 
H.  G.  Keene  says  of  Nizamu-din  :  "  He 
is  said  by  some  to  have  been  a  sorcerer, 
by  others  an  assassin  of  the  secret 
society  of  Khorasan.  Sleeman  was  of 
opinion  that  he  was  the  founder  of 
Thuggism,  as  the  Thugs  profess  a  special 
reverence  for  his  memory." 

Humayun's  Tomb  about  1  m.  S.  of 
Indrapat.  The  approach  is  through 
two  gateways,  the  first  being  of  red 
sandstone,  and  lofty.  On  the  left  of 
the  second  door  of  the  entrance  is  a 
placard  which  says  that  the  Nawab 
Hamidah  Bano  Begam,  otherwise  called 
Haji  Begam,  widow  of  Humayun,  built 
the   mausoleum   after   her  husband's 


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ROUTE  6.       BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


Mm 


death.  He  died  in  1555  a.d.  It  cost  1 5 
lakhs,  and  took  16  years  to  build. 
Hamidah  Bano  and  other  members  of 
the  Imperial  family  are  buried  here. 
The  mausoleum  stands  upon  a  wide 


Sketch  Plan  of  Humayun's  Tomb. 

raised  platform,  and  consists  of  a  large 
central  octagon  surmounted  by  a  dome 
with  octagon  towers  of  unequal  sides 
at  the  angles.  "  Its  plan  is  that  after- 
wards adopted  at  the  Taj,  but  used 
here  without  the  depth  and  poetry  of 
that  celebrated|building.  It  is,  however, 
a  noble  tomb,  and  anywhere  else  must 
be  considered  a  wonaer  "  (Fergusson). 
A  side  door  leads  into  a  chamber  in 
which  are  three  beautiful  white  marble 
tombs,  being  those  of  'Alamgir  II., 
Farakh  Sir,  and  Jehandar  Shah. 
There  are  no  names  or  dates.  Huma- 
ynn^s  cenotaph  is  of  white  marble,  and 
is  under  the  centre  of  the  dome,  in  an 
octagonal  hall, — it  is  quite  plain,  with- 
out any  inscription. 

The  enclosure  in  which  the  mauso- 
leum stands  contains  about  11  acres. 
The  red  sandstone  is  most  artistically 
picked  out  in  relief  with  white  marble. 
The  windows  are  recessed,  and  the 
lower  doors  are  filled  in  with  lattices 
cut  out  of  the  solid  stone  and  marble. 
In  the  centre  of  each  side  of  the  main 
octagon  is  a  porch  40  ft.  high  with  a 
pointed  arch.  The  wall  of  the  dome 
IS  11  ft.  thick,  and  covered  with  slabs 
of  white  marble.  The  view  from  the 
top  is  worth  seeing.  Hither  Baha- 
dur Shah  fled  after  the  storming  of 
Delhi  in  1857,  and  surrendered  to 
Hodson,  who  on  the  following  day,  with 
a  small  force  and  in  the  presence  of  a 
threatening  concourse  of  natives,  re- 
turned for  the  princes,  the  sons  of 
Bahadur  Shah,  who  also  surrendered 
and  were  shot  by  him  on  the  spot. 


Jai  ( Jey)  Sing's  Observatory,  or  tk 
Jantr  Mantr,  is  2  m.  S.  of  the  Ajmere 
Gate  and  250  yds.  to  the  1.  of  the  main 
road.  Mr.  Beresford's  description  of  all 
these  buildings  is  the  best  (see  Ddhi^ 
1856).  "The  largest  of  the  buildings 
is  an  immense  equatorial  dial,  named 
by  the  Raja  the  Samrat  Yantra,  or 
*  Prince  of  Dials,*  the  dimensions  of  the 
gnomon  being  as  follows  : — 

It  in. 

Length  of  hypothennse       .       .    118  5 

„       base     .       .        .        .    104  0 

„       perpendicular     .       .      56  7 

These  buildings,  chiefly  interesting 
to  persons  who  have  a  knowledge  of 
astronomy,  were  constructed  in  1131 
A.  H.  =  1 724  A.  D. ,  by  Jai  Sing  II. ,  Rajd 
of  Jeypore,  commonly  called  Sawai  Jai 
Sing.  He  was  an  engineer,  mathe- 
matician, and  an  astronomer.  He  con- 
sti-ucted  on  his  own  plan  this  Observa- 
tory, and  others  at  Jeypore,  Benares, 
and  Ujjain.  All  the  buildings  are  now 
much  ruined. 

Tomb  of  Safdar  Jang.— At  f  m, 
beyond  the  Jantr  Mantr,  on  the  I  ighl 
of  the  road,  is  the  tomb  of  Safdar  Jang 
whose  real  name  was  Abu  '1  Mansni 
Khan,  Safdar  Jang  being  merely  hi 
title.  He  was  Vazir  to  Amad  Shah 
eldest  son  of  the  Emperor  Muhamma( 
Shah.  In  1749-50  Safdar  Jang  engag« 
in  a  war  with  the  RohiUas,  and  wi 
defeated  in  a  great  battle,  when  he  wa 
obliged  to  call  in  the  Marathas,  L 
1753  he  was  deprived  of  his  office  o 
Vazir,  and  died.  His  son,  Shuj'an 
daulah,  appointed  Balal  Muhamma 
Khan  to  superintend  the  building  c 
this  mausoleum,  which  cost  three  lakh 
of  rupees.  It  is  of  red  sandstone  an 
stucco.  Safdar  Jang's  wife,  Ehujistai 
Bano  Begam,  is  buried  with  him. 

The  mausoleum  stands  in  an  ez 
closure.  On  the  left  of  the  entraiw 
is  a  sarai  for  travellers,  and  on  tt 
right  a  mosque  with  three  cupolas.  O 
the  gi'ound  platform  are  two  earthe 
mounds,  which  are  the  real  grave 
This  building  is  99  ft.  sq.  and  three  stori* 
high,  and  contains  in  the  central  aipa* 
ment  the  marble  cenotaph.  Fergasae 
bestows  only  qualified  praise  upon  it,  sag 
ing  *'  it  will  not  bear  close  inspection. 

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147 


A  cross-road  leads  from  this  mau- 
soleum to  Humayun's  Tomb,  which  is 
distant  under  3  m.  On  the  left  of  this 
road  is  a  group  of  four  tombs,  regarding 
which  General  Cunningham  writes : 
"The  N.  group,  consisting  of  two  octa- 
gonal tombs  and  a  bridge  of  seven  arches, 
is  attributed  by  the  natives  to  the  time 
of  the  Lodi  family,  the  larger  tomb, 
within  a  square,  being  assigned  to 
Sikandar  Lodi,  and  I  believe  that  this 
attribution  is  most  probably  correct. 
But  the  S.  group,  which  consists  of  a 
mosque  and  two  square  tombs,  belongs, 
in  my  opinion,  to  an  earlier  period." 

Hau-i-Ehas. — This  reservoir  was 
constructed  by  Sultan  'Alau-din  in 
the  year  1293  A.D. ;  it  is  2  m.  N.  of  the 
Kutb,  near  the  viUage  of  Kharera,  and 
is  difficult  of  approach,  as  there  is  no 
carriage-road  to  it.  It  is  most  easily 
reached  from  Safdar  Jane's  tomb.  The 
area  of  the  tank  is  a  little  over  100 
Indian  acres.  It  is  now  a  complete 
ruin.  Feroz  Shah  cleared  it  out  in  the 
wa  1354  A.D.,  and  repaired  it  and 
kilt  a  college  near  it,  at  which  Yusuf 
Bin  Jamal  Husaini  was  professor,  and 
he  was  buried  in  the  courtyard  of  the 
wlWe.  The  tomb  of  Feroz  Shah  stands 
on  the  bank.  He  died  in  1388  a.d. 
The  tank  is  now  dry,  and  is  culti- 
tated. 

From  Safdar  Jang's  tomb  to  the 
Kutb  Minar  is  full  6  m.  Near  Begam- 
fw  there  is  a  mosque  800  yds.  to  the 
left  of  the  road. 

The  Eutb  Hinaf ,  with  its  adjacent 
■weque  and  surrounding  buildings,  is 
j  *kout  11  m.  from  the  Ajmere  Gate,  and 
•tiods,  it  is  said,  on  the  site  of  the 
j  JBginal  Hindu  city  of  Dilli,  probably 
jfethe  Fort  of  LcUTcot  built  by  Anang 
;  fWII.  in  1052  a.d.  Adjoining  to  the 
B.  was  the  Fort  of  Rai  Pithora,  1180 
j-A-D.  The  line  of  fortification  of  these 
^•ees  is  indicated  by  the  mound  ex- 
fending  several  miles  to  the  W.  and 

I  The  Kutb  is  a  grand  monument,  and 
faob  what  it  is  intended  to  be — a 
'  of  victory.  1 1  has  been  a  question 
[[hetiier  it  was  not  originally  Hindu, 
and  completed  by  the  Moham- 
conquerors.  It  is  the  general 
of  tiie  people  that  it  was  built 


by   Rai    Pithora,    that    his    daughter 
might  see  the  Jumna  from  the  top 
of  it.     Saiyad  Ahmad  inclines  to  the 
belief  that  it  is  of  Hindu  origin.     But 
Cunningham  seems  to  come  to  the  right 
conclusion  that  it  is  a  purely  Moham- 
medan   building.^      The    inscriptions 
appear  to  show  that  it  was  begun  by 
Altamsh.     As  we  see  it  at  present,  it  is 
240  ft.  6  in.  high,  and  rises  in  a  suc- 
cession of  5  stories  marked  by  corbelled 
balconies  and   decorated  with   bands 
of  inscription.    The  base  diameter  is 
47  ft.  3  in.,  and  that  of  the  top  about 
9  ft.     The  three  first  stories  are  of 
red  sandstone  with  semicircular  and 
angular  flutings  ;  the  two  upper  stories 
are  faced  chiefly  with  white  marble, 
and  were  almost  entirely  rebuilt  by 
Feroz  Shah  Tughlak  in  1368,  when  he 
also   added  a  cupola.     On   1st   Aug. 
1803  the  whole  pUlar  was  seriously 
injured  by   an    earthquake   and    the 
cupola  thrown  down.     It  was  injudi- 
ciously restored  in  1829,  when  besides 
the  injury  to  the  inscriptions  already 
mentioned,  the  battlements  and  the 
balconies  were  removed  and  replaced 
by  the  present  flimsy  balustrades,  and 
an  entirely  new  cupola  (now  standing 
on  a  mound  by  the  side  of  the  tower) 
was  erected.      This  cupola  does  not 
pretend   to   any  resemblance   to  the 
original  one.     Notice  should  be  taken 
of  the  honeycomb  work  beneath  the 
brackets  of  the  first-story  balconies,  of 
which   the   **  structure   differs  in   no 
perceptible  degree  from  that  in  the 
Alhambra."     It  is  worth,  for  the  sake 
of  the  view,  to  ascend  to  the  top  of  the 
Minar,  where  may  be  seen  the  stump 
of  Feroz  Shah's  cupola. 
The  Mosque  of  Eutb'iU  Islam  (Kuvat 
ul  Islam)  was  begun  by  Kutb-ud-din 
Aibak  when  Viceroy,  inmiediately  after 
the  capture  of  Delhi  in  587  A.H.  =  1191 
A.D.,  as  recorded  by  the  King  himself 
in  the  long  inscription  over  the  inner 
archway  of  the  E.  entrance.     Even  in 
ruins  it  is  a  magnificent  work.     It  was 
seen  by  Ibn  Batuta  about  150  years 
after  its  erection,  when  he  describes  it 
as  having  no  equal,  either  in  beauty  or 
extent.     It  is  not  so  large  as  the  great 

1  For  particulars  regarding  the  discussion 
see  ArchcBO.  Be/ports,  voL  1.  p.  190. 

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ROUTE  6.      BOMBAT  TO  DELHI 


India 


mosques  of  Jaunpor  and  others,  but 
is  still  unrivalled  for  its  grand  line  of 
gigantic  arches,  and  for  the  graceful 


demolished  by  the  Mohammedans. 
Altamsh  in  1210-1280  surrounded  it 
by  a  larger  cloistered  court,  in  the  S.E. 


PLAN 

OF 

MOSQUE  OF  KUTBU'L  ISLAM 

AND  THE 

KUTB  MINAR 


o 


Tomb  of 


beauty  of  the  flowered  tracery  which 
covers  its  walls. 

It  occupies  the  platform  on  which 
stood  Rai  Pithora's    Hindu   Temple, 


comer  of  which  stands  the  Eatb  I 
and  in  1800  'Ala-ud-din  appends 
further  eastern  court,  enterod 
great  S.  gateway  the  Alai  Da 

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149 


,  (we  below).  'Alau-din  also  began  the 
Alai  Minar  (see  below).  The  main 
mtnmce  to  the  mosque  is  an  arched 
gteway  in  the  centre  of  its  E.  wall. 
fhia  opens  upon  the  courtyard  (142 
ft.  X 108  ft),  which  is  surrounded  by 
doisters  formed  of  Hindu,  Buddhist, 
mdJainpillarsplacedoneupon  another. 
Some  of  these  are  richly  ornamented  ; 
imanyof  the  figures  have  been  defaced  by 
the  Mohammedans,  though  some  may 
still  be  found  in  unnoticed  comers.  The 
number  of  pillars  thus  brought  into 
use  could  not  have  been  much  less  than 
1200.  The  Arabic  inscription  over  the 
1  entrance  to  the  courtyard  states  that 
tiie  materials  were  obtained  from  the 
demolition  of  27  idolatrous  temples, 
each  of  which  had  cost  27  lakhs  of 
diKak,  50  dilials  being  equal  to  1  rupee. 
The  cost  of  the  whole,  therefore,  was 
^108,000.  The  domed  pavilions  in  the 
angles  of  the  cloisters  are  worthy  of 
Qotioe.  The  S.  side  of  the  cloister  was 
*^th  a  strange  want  of  discrimination" 
leconstructed  in  1829. 

The  famous  Iron  Pillar  (see  below) 
stands  in  front  of  the  central  opening 
to  the  mosque  proper,  a  building  of 
finall  proportions,  now  in  ruins  over- 
topped and  hidden  by  the  vast  screen 
of  gigantic  arches  which  occupies  the 
^ole  of  the  W.  side.  This  screen  was 
erected  by  Kutb  later  than  his  other 
work,  and  was  extended  beyond  on 
either  side  for  116  ft.  by  Altamsh. 
lie  central  arch  is  63  ft.  high  x  31  ft. 
wide.  "The  Afghan  conquerors  had  a 
tolerably  distinct  idea  that  pointed 
wAes  were  the  true  form  of  architec- 
fewl  openings,  but  being  without 
l^ace  sufficient  to  construct  them, 
m  left  the  Hindu  architects  and 
Iwders  to  follow  their  own  devices  as 
l^^mode  of  carrying  out  the  form. 
Iccordingly  they  proceeded  to  make 
lie  pointed  openings  on  the  same  prin- 
iple  upon  which  they  built  their  domes 
-they  carried  them  up  in  horizontal 
otuses  as  far  as  they  could  and  then 
tosed  them  by  long  slabs  meeting  at 
te  top."  The  impost  in  the  central 
Kh  was  added  by  the  British  restorers, 
be  ornamentation,  interspersed  with 
Kts  from  the  Koran,  is  evidently 
^n  from  that  on  the  old  pillars. 


Fragments  of  the  roof  of  the  mosque 
still  remain,  supported  by  the  small 
Hindu  columns,  and  do  not  reach  more 
than  one-third  of  the  height  of  the 
screen. 

The  Iron  Pillar  is  one  of  the  most 
curious  antiquities  in  India.  The  Col- 
ossus of  Rhodes  and  the  statues  of 
Buddha,  described  by  Hiouen  Thsang, 
were  of  brass  or  copper,  hollow,  and  of 
pieces  riveted  together  ;  but  this  pillar 
IS  a  solid  shaft  of  wrought  iron,  more 
than  16  in.  in  diameter,  and  23  ft.  8  in. 
in  length.  The  height  of  the  pillar 
above  ground  is  22  ft.,  but  the  smooth 
shaft  is  only  16  ft.,  the  capital  being  3 J 
ft.  and  the  rough  part  below  also  3f  ft. 
Dr.  Murray  Thompson  analysed  a  bit 
of  it,  and  found  that  it  was  pure 
malleable  iron  of  7*66  specific  gravity. 

"The  iron  pillar  records  its  own 
history  in  a  deeply  cut  Sanscrit 
inscription  of  six  lines  on  its  W.  fstce. 
The  inscription  has  been  translated  by- 
James  Prinsep  (B.A»S,  Joum,  vol.  vii. 
p.  630).  The  pillar  is  called  *  the  Arm 
of  Fame  of  Raja  Dhava.'  It  is  said 
that  he  subdued  a  people  on  the 
Sindhu,  named  Vahlikas,  and  obtained, 
with  his  own  arm,  an  undivided  sover- 
eignty on  the  earth  for  a  long  period." 
It  appears  that  the  Raja  was  a  wor- 
shipper of  Vishnu,  and  the  pillar  was 
probably  surmounted  by  a  figure  of 
that  deity.  James  Prinsep  assigns  the 
3d  or  4th  century  after  Christ  as  the 
date  of  the  inscription,  which  Mr. 
Thomas  considers  too  high  an  antiquity. 
General  Cunningham  suggests  the  year 
319  A.  D.  According  to  universal  tradi- 
tion, the  pillar  was  erected  by  Bilan 
Deo,  or  Anang  Pal,  the  founder  of  the 
Tomar  dynasty.  The  name  of  Anang 
Pal  also  is  inscribed  on  the  shaft,  with 
the  date  Samwat  1109 = 1052  a.d.  The 
remaining  inscriptions  are  numerous 
but  unimportant.  At  7  ft.  3  in.  from 
the  pedestal  there  is  a  Nagri  inscrip- 
tion. At  4  ft  above  the  inscription  is 
a  deep  indentation,  said  to  have  been 
made  by  a  cannon-ball  fired  by  the 
troops  of  the  Bhurtpur  Raja. 

Tomb  of  Altamsh  (who  died  in  1235 
A.D.)  outside  the  N.W.  comer  of  the 
great  enclosure  of  the  mosque.  It  is 
of  red  sandstone.     The  ipain  entrance 

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ROUTE  6.      BOMBAY  TO  DELHI 


India 


is  to  the  E.,  but  there  are  also  openings 
to  the  N.  and  S.  The  interior  is  in- 
scribed with  beautifully  written  pass- 
ages of  the  Koran,  and  in  the  centre  of 
the  W.  side  is  a  Kiblah  of  white  marble 
discoloured  with  age.  About  5  ft.  from 
the  ground  are  several  lines  in  Kufik. 
The  tomb  is  in  the  centre,  and  has 
been  greatly  injured  ;  the  top  part  is  of 
modem  masonry.  Cunningham  says 
that  there  is  no  roof,  "but  there  is 
good  reason  to  believe  that  it  was 
originally  covered  by  an  overlapping 
Hindu  dome.  A  single  stone  of  one 
of  the  overiapping  circles,  with  Arabic 
letters  on  it,  still  remains. "  Fergusson 
says:  "In  addition  to  the  beauty  of 
its  details,  it  is  interesting  as  being  the 
oldest  tomb  known  to  exist  in  India. " 

The  Alai  Darwazah,  40  ft.  to  the 
S.E.  from  the  Kutb  Minar,  is  the  S. 
entrance  of  the  great  or  outer  enclosure 
to  the  mosque.  This  gateway  was 
built  of  red  sandstone  richly  orna- 
mented with  patterns  in  low  relief,  in 
1310  A.D.,  by  'Alau-din.  Over  three 
of  the  entrances  are  Arabic  inscriptions, 
which  give  *Alau-din's  name,  and  his 
weU- known  title  of  Sikandar  Sani, 
the  second  Alexander,  with  the  date 
710  A.H.  The  building  is  a  square. 
On  each  side  there  is  a  lofty  doorway, 
with  pointed  horse-shoe  arches.  In 
each  comer  there  are  two  windows 
closed  by  massive  screens  of  marble 
lattice-work.  A  few  yards  to  the  E. 
stands  the  richly  carved  building,  in 
which  is  the  tomb  of  Imam  Zamin,  or 
father  of  Imam  Muhammad  'Ali,  of 
Mashhad.  He  is  otherwise  called 
Saiyad  Husain.  He  came  to  Delhi  in 
the  reign  of  Sikandar,  and  himself  built 
the  mosque  as  a  tomb.  He  died  in  944 
A.H.  =  1537  A.D.,  and  left  in  his  will 
that  he  should  be  buried  here.  There 
is  an  inscription  in  the  Tughra  char- 
acter over  the  door.  It  is  a  small 
domed  building,  about  18  ft.  square,  of 
red  sandstone  covered  with  chunam. 

Alai  Minar  is  at  the  distance  of  435 
ft.  due  N.  from  the  Kutb.  Just  above 
the  base  or  platform,  which  is  4  ft.  3 
in.  high,  the  circumference  is  259  ft 
The  traveller  must  climb  8  ft  of  wall 
to  get  into  this  Minar.  The  whole 
stands  on  a  moimd  6  ft  high.     The 


inner  tower  and  outer  wall  are  made 
of  large  rough  stones,  very  coarse 
work,  as  the  stones  are  put  in  anyhow, 
The  total  height  as  it  now  stands  is  7C 
ft.  above  the  plinth,  or  87  ft  above 
the  ground-level.  A  facing  of  red  stone 
would  doubtless  have  been  added.  The 
eutrance  is  on  the  E.,  and  on  theN. 
there  is  a  window  intended  to  light 
the  spiral  staircase.  Had  this  pillar 
been  finished  it  would  have  been 
about  600  ft.  high.  'Alau-din  Khilji, 
who  built  it,  reigned  from  1296  to 
1316  A.D.,  and  Cunningham  thinb 
that  the  building  was  stopped  in 
1312. 

Metcalfe  House  was  the  tomb  of 
Muhammad  Kuli  Khan,  the  foster 
brother  of  Akbar.  It  has  been  en- 
larged, and  rooms  have  been  added  fw 
modern  requirements.  It  is  less  thai 
a  4  m.  from  the  Kutb  Minar.  Si 
T.  Metcalfe  made  this  his  residenci 
during  the  four  rainy  months.  Ther 
were  beautiful  gardens  in  his  time,  an( 
fine  stables  to  the  S.,  of  which  only  tb 
entrance  pillars  now  remain. 

Some  other  Buildinge. — 1  m.  to  th 
N.E.  is  a  solitary  tower,  N.  of  thi 
tower  is  the  tomb  of  Akbar  Khai 
brother  of  Adham  and  Muhamma 
Kuli  Khan.  ^  m.  along  a  made  road  t 
the  S.W.  are  the  tombs  of  Jamali 
din  and  Kamalu-din,  Maulvis ;  the 
are  white  marble,  covered  with  roofi 
and  have  side  walls  adorned  with  ei 
caustic  tiles  and  exquisite  decoration) 
The  handsome  mosque  of  Faizu  '11a 
Khan  is  close  to  these. 

The  Police  Rest-hmise  is  the  Ton 
of  Adham  Khan;  it  lies  S.W.  • 
the  Kutb,  and  is  75  ft.  high.  Tb 
Khan  was  put  to  death  by  Akbar  f< 
killing  the  Emperor's  foster-brothe 
Adham  was  thrown  from  the  top  of 
lofty  building,  and  it  happening  th 
his  mother  died  the  same  day,  the  ts 
bodies  were  brought  to  Delhi  and  i 
terred  here.  Close  by  is  a  deep  W< 
into  which  the  natives  let  themselv 
fall  from  a  height  of  60  ft.  above  ti 
water,  and  then  demand  8  annas  eat 
from  the  spectators. 

S.W.    of   the  Kutb    Minar    is   i 
village  of  Maharoli.      The    tomb 
Kutbu-din   Ushi  is  here,  as  are  al 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


u^ 


1i  '0\^    /^     t^^i* 


ROUTE  6.      OLD  DELHI 

several  tombs  of  kings  after  the  time 
of  Auiangzib.  f  m.  from  this  a 
pared  way  is  passed  leading  to  the 
Temple  of  Jog  Maya,  which  is  very 
famous  amongst  Hindus,  who  refer  it 
to  the  very  ancient  date  of  Krishna's 
childhood.  In  fact,  however,  the 
present  building  was  erected  in  1827. 
There  i&  no  image  in  it.  There  is  a 
iair  here  every  week.  On  the  rifht  are 
the  rains  of  the  palace  of  Altamsn,  and 
on  the  left  the  entrance  gateway  to  a 
garden  of  the  king. 

Toffhlakabad. — This  fort  is  upwards 
of  4  m.  to  the  E.  of  the  Kutb.  It 
is  on  the  left  of  the  main  road  coming 
from  Delhi,  and  is  built  on  a  rocky 
eminence  from  15-  to  30  ft.  high. 
Oanningham  thus  describes  it  (Arch. 
Iiq>.  vol.  L  p.  212):  "The  fort  may 
be  described  with  tolerable  accuracy  as 
a  half  hexagon  in  shape,  with  three  faces 
o!  rather  more  than  |  m.  in  length, 
and  a  base  of  1^  m.,  the  whole  circuit 
being  only  1  furlong  less  than  4  m.  It 
stands  on  a  rocky  height,  and  is  built 
of  massive  blocks  of  stone,  so  large  and 
heavy  that  they  must  have  been  quar- 
ried on  the  spot.  The  largest  measured 
was  14  ft.  in  len^h  by  2  ft.  2  in.,  and  1 
ft  thick,  and  weighed  rather  more  than 
6  tons.  The  short  faces  to  the  W. ,  N. , 
ind  K  are  protected  by  a  deep  ditch, 
and  the  long  face  to  the  S.  by  a  large 
sheet  of  water,  dry,  except  in  the  rainy 
season,  which  is  held  up  by  an  embank- 
ment at  the  S.E.  comer.  On  this  side 
the  rock  is  scarped,  and  above  it  the 
main  walls  rise  to  a  mean  height  of  40 
ft,  with  a  parapet  of  7  ft,  behind  which 
rises  another  wall  of  15  ft.,  the  whole 
height  above  the  low  ground  being 
i5>ward8  of  90  ft" 

In  t^e  S.W.  angle  is  the  citadel, 
which  occupies  about  one-sixth  of  the 
area.  It  contains  the  ruins  of  an  exten- 
sive palace.  The  ramparts  are  raised 
on  a  lino  of  domed  rooms,  which  rarely 
oommanicate  with  each  other,  and 
which  formed  the  quarters  of  the 
garrison.  The  walls  slope  rapidly  in- 
wards, as  much  as  those  of  Egyptian 
buildings*  and  are  without  ornament, 
but  the  vast  size,  strength,  and  visible 
aolidily  of  the  whole  give  to  Tu^h- 
lakabad  ao.  air  of  stem  and  massive 


AND  NEIGHBOURHOOD        ,  151 

grandeur  that  is  both  striking  and  im-    ^ 
pressive.     The  fort  has  thirteen  gates, 
and  there  are  three  inner  gates  to  the  ^ 
citadel.     It  contains  seven  tanks,  and  '"' 
ruins  of  several  larffe  buildings,  as  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  and  the  Birij  Mandir. 
The  upper  part  is  full  of  ruined  houses, 
but  the  lower  appears  never  to  have 
been  fully  inhabited.     Saiyad  Ahmad 
states  that  the  fort  was  commenced  in 
1321,  and  finished  in  1323,  A.D. 

The  fine  Tomb  of  TughWc  is  outside 
the  S.  wall  of  Tughlakabad,  in  the 
midst  of  the  artificial  lake,  and  sur- 
rounded by  a  pentagonal  outwork, 
which  is  connected  with  the  fort  by 
a  causeway  600  ft.  long,  supported  on 
27  arches.  Mr.  Fergusson  says  :  **  The 
sloping  walls  and  almost  Egyptian 
solidity  of  this  mausoleum,  combined 
with  the  bold  and  massive  towers  of 
the  fortifications  that  surround  it,  form 
a  picture  of  a  warrior's  tomb  unrivalled 
anywhere."  The  outer  walls  have  a 
slope  of  2*333  in.  per  foot;  at  base 
they  are  \\^  ft.  thick,  and  at  top  4  ft. 
The  exterior  decoration  of  the  tomb 
itself  depends  chiefly  on  difference  of 
colour,  which  is  effected  by  the  free  use 
of  bands  and  borders  of  white  marble 
inserted  in  the  red  sandstone.  In  ^lan 
it  is  a  square,  and  three  of  its  four  sides 
have  lofty  archways,  the  space  above 
the  doorway  being  filled  with  a  white 
marble  lattice  screen  of  bold  pattern. 
It  is  surmounted  by  a  white  marble 
dome.  A  lesser  dome  within  the  same 
pentagon  covers,  it  is  said,  the  tomb 
of  one  of  Tughlak's  ministers. 

"Inside  the  mausoleum  there  are 
three  cenotaphs,  which  are  said  to  be 
those  of  Tughlak  Shah,  his  Queen,  and 
their  son  Juna  Khan,  who  took  the 
name  of  Muhammad  when  he  ascended 
the  throne." 

A  causeway  runs  to  'Adilabad,  the 
fort  of  Tughlak's  son  Juna  Khan,  who 
assumed  the  title  of  Muhammad  Shah 
bin  Tughlak.  He  was  a  famous  tyrant, 
and  is  still  spoken  of  as  the  Khuni 
Sultan,  "the  bloody  King."  Feroz 
Shah,  his  successor,  got  acquittances 
from  all  those  he  had  wronged,  and 
put  them  in  a  chest  at  the  head  of  the 
tyrant's  tomb,  that  he  might  present 
them  when  called  tojudgment. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


15S 


ROUTE  7.      AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMl^ATH 


India 


ROUTE  7 

Ahmbdabad  to  the  Runn  of  Cutch 
(Wadhwan,  Bhaunagar,  Pali- 
tana,  GiRNAR,  AND  SOMNATH). 

Leaving  Ahmedabad  (Rte.  6),  310  m. 
from  Bombay  the  Sabarmati  is  crossed 
on  a  fine  bridge,  with  a  footway  for 
passengers  alongside,  and  carrying  the 
rails  for  both  broad  and  narrow  gauges. 
From,  4  m.,  Sabarmati  (junc.  sta.), 
on  N.  bank  of  the  river  of  that  name, 
the  narrow  gauge  continues  N.  to  Delhi 
and  Agra,  whilst  the  broad  gauge  turns 
W.,  and  passing  through  a  well-culti- 
vated country,  reaches  at 

40  m.  Viramgam  junc.  sta.,  i^  a 
walled  town.  Pop.  20,000.  The  Man- 
sar  tank  dates  from  the  end  of  the  11th 
century.  It  is  shaped  like  a  shell,  and 
surrounded  by  flignts  of  stone  steps ; 
round  the  top  of  the  steps  runs  a  row 
of  small  temples.  The  inlet  is  much 
ornamented.  The  neighbourhood 
abounds  in  black  buck,  grouse,  and 
all  manner  of  water-fowl. 

[From  this  place  a  branch  line  runs 
N.W.  passing  at  17  m.  Patri,  D.B.,  a 
small  walled  town  with  a  Citadel ;  and, 
at  22  m.,  reaches  Eharaghoda,  where 
there  are  very  extensive  government  salt- 
pans on  the  edge  of  the  Bnim  of  Catch. 
In  the  dry  season  the  Runn  presents  the 
appearance  of  a  hard,  smooth  bed  of 
dried  mud,  and  may  be  ridden  over 
at  any  place.  There  is  absolutely  no 
vegetation  except  on  some  small  islands 
which  rise  above  the  level  of  the  salt 
inundation ;  the  only  living  creatures 
that  inhabit  it  are  some  hems  of  wild 
asses,  which  feed  on  the  lands  near  its 
shores  at  night,  and  retreat  far  into  the 
desert  in  the  daytime.  With  the  com- 
mencement of  the  S.W.  monsoon  in 
May,  the  salt  water  of  the  Gulf  of  Cutch 
invades  the  Runn,  and  later  in  the 
season  many  rivers  from  Rajputana 
pour  fresh  water  into  it.  The  sea  is 
now  encroaching  rapidly  on  the  Runn 
at  its  iunction  with  the  Gulf  of  Cutch, 
and  there  is  reason  to  suppose  that 
serious  changes  of  level  are  taking  place. 
The  centre  of  the  Runn  is  slightly 
higher  than  the  borders,  and  dries  first. 


The  railway  has  many  sidinf^s  extend- 
ing into  the  Runn,  to  facilitate  the 
collection  of  the  salt,  which  is  stacked 
at  the  station  in  very  large  quantities 
under  the  custody  of  the  Salt  Customs 
Department.  Originally  it  was  con- 
sidered necessary  to  erect  expensive  roofs 
over  the  salt  stacks,  but  experience  has 
shown  that  this  can  be  dispensed  with. 
The  salt  is  evaporated  by  the  heat 
of  the  sun  from  brine  brought  up  in 
buckets  fix)m  depths  of  15  to  80  ft 
The  mirage  is  beautiful  in  this  nei^- 
bourhood,  and  in  the  winter  season  the 
flights  of  flamingoes  and  other  birds 
are  extraordinaruy  large.  There  are 
grouse  to  be  had  in  the  neighbourhood.] 

80  m.  Wadhwan  junc.  sta.  D.B.  To 
the  W.  runs  the  Morvi  State  Bailway^ 
the  exclusive  property  of  the  Horvi 
state,  constructed  on  2\  p^  gauge  to 
maintain  communication  with  Morvi^ 
Jetalsar  and  Bajkot,  To  the  S.  the  line 
IS  continued  by  means  of  the^Aauno^or 
GondcU  BaUwayy  a  portion  of  the  metre- 
gauge  system,  which  opens  up  a  laige 
number  of  places  in  South  Eattywar. 
These  railways  are  under  a  central 
administration,  but  are  the  property  of 
the  states  through  which  they  pass. 

The  Civil  Station  of  Wadhwan^  on 
which  the  rly.  sta.  is  built,  is  a 
plot  of  land  rented  by  Government  in 
perpetuity  from  the  Wadhwan  state, 
for  the  location  of  the  establishments 
necessary  for  the  administration  of  the 
N.E.  portion  of  Eattywar.  A  small 
town  nas  sprung  up  close  to  the  rail- 
way station. 

The  only  institution  of  special  interest 
in  the  place  is  the  TiMkdaH  School^ 
where  tne  sons  of  Otrassias,  or  land- 
owners, are  educated  when  their  parents 
are  unable  to  afford  the  heavy  cost  of 
sending  them  to  the  Rajhamar  or 
Princes*  College  at  Bajkot.  In  many 
cases  elder  brothers  are  placed  at  the 
Rajkumar  College,  and  the  younger  at 
the  Talukdari  SchooL 

The  Provvnce  of  KaHywar  (or  Kathi- 
awad)  which  is  now  entered,  exists  under 
circumstances  quite  exceptionaL  It 
consists  of  187  separate  states,  ranging 
in  extent  from  considerable  tracts  of 
country,  with  chiefs  enjoving  great  eze-  ' 

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BOUTB  7.      WADHWAN  CIl?Y 


153 


cutive  freedom,  to  mere  village  lands, 
necessarily  states  only  in  name.  Almost 
without  exception  the  capitals  of  these 
states  are  places  of  interest,  but  there 
is  no  space  in  this  work  to  describe 
them. 

For  purposes  of  administration  the 
Province  is  divided  into/our  Frants,  or 
divisions. 

The  ardnous  task  of  administering 
this  Province  is  entrusted  to  a  Political 
Agent  who  resides  at  Itajkot,  and  has 
assistants  distributed  through  the 
conntiy. 

Everywhere  in  Kattywar  the  travel- 
ler will  remark  long  lines  of  palias, 
or  memorial  stones,  peculiar  to  this 
Proyince,  on  which  men  are  usually 
represented  as  riding  on  a  very  large 
horse,  whilst  women  have  a  wheel  below 
them  to  indicate  that  they  used  a 
cairiage. 

A  woman's  arm  and  hand  indicate 
here,  as  in  other  jMurts  of  India,  a  monu- 
ment to  a  lady  who  committed  sati. 

Proceeding  S.  by  the  Bhaunagar 
Gondal  Bailwa^,  the  river  is  crossed 
dose  to  the  station. 

At  83  ULWadhwan  City  sta.i8  reached. 
The  town  wall  is  of  stone  and  in  good 
order.  Towards  the  centre,  on  the  N. 
wall,  is  the  ancient  temple  of  Baaik 
Devi  She  was  a  beautiM  cirl,  bom 
in  the  Juna^adh  territory  when  Sidh 
Baja  was  reigning  at  Patau,  and  was 
berthed  to  nim.  But  Ra  Khengar, 
who  then  ruled  Junagadh,  carried  her 
off  and  married  her,  which  caused  a 
deadly  feud  between  him  and  Sidh  Raja, 
whose  troops  marched  to  Junagadh. 
Ciengar  was  betrayed  by  two  of  his 
kinsmen,  and  was  slain  by  Sidh  Raja 
snd  his  fortress  taken.  The  conqueror 
vanted  to  marry  Ranik  Devi,  but  she 
poformed  acUi,  and  Sidh  R^'a  raised 
this  temple  to  her  memory. 

The  temple  bears  marks  of  extreme 
old  age,  the  stone  beinc  much  worn  and 
Dorroded,  and  all  but  me  tower  is  gone, 
baide  is  a  stone  with  the  effigy  in 
Nlief  of  Banik  Devi,  and  a  smaller  one 
^th  a  representation  of  Ambaji.  N. 
|f  this  temple,  and  close  to  the  city 
nil,  is  a  saU  stone  dated  1619.  Close 
0  the  Lakhupol  Gate  is  a  well  with 


steps,  ascribed  to  one  Madhava,  who 
lived  in  1294  A.D. 

The  Palace  is  near  the  centre  of  the 
town,  has  four  stories,  and  is  72  ft 
high.  It  stands  in  a  court  facing  the 
entrance,  on  the  right  of  which  is  a 
building  called  the  Mandwa,  where 
assemblies  take  place  at  marriages. 

96  m.  Limbdi  sta.  Chief  town  of 
the  cotton-producing  state  of  that  name. 
Pop.  13,000.  A  well-cared-for  place, 
very  handsome  palace. 

126  m.  Botad  sta.  Frontier  of  the 
Bhaunagar  state. 

152  m.  Dhola  June  sta.(R.)  Here  the 
line  turns  W.  to  Dhoraji  and  Porbandar, 
and  E.  to  Bhaunagar,  passing  at 

165  m.  a  little  N.  of  Son|^  sOc  the 
residence  of  the  Assistant  Political 
Agent  for  the  eastern  portion  of  the 
Province. 

pSxcursion  to  Palitana  and  the 
Shetnmjee  (or  Satmnjaya)  Hills. 

(Arrangements  for  a  conveyance  can 
be  made,  by  applying  to  the  Dep.  Assist. 
Polit.  Agent  at  Songad.  No  puolic  con- 
veyances can  be  depended  upon.) 

Palitana,  sOc  about  15  m.  S.  of  Songad, 
the  latter  part  of  the  road  over  a  barren 
country  between  low  rocky  hills,  is  the 
residence  of  the  chief,  and  is  much  en- 
riched by  the  crowds  of  pil^ms  who 
reside  in  it  during  their  visit  to  the 
ffoly  Mountain,  the  site  of  some  of  the 
most  famous  Jain  temples  in  India. 

The  distance  from  Palitana  to  the 
foot  of  Sainmjaya,  or  the  Holy  Moun- 
tain, is  H  m.  The  road  is  level,  with 
a  good  water  supply,  and  shaded  by 
trees.  The  ascent  begins  with  a  wide 
flight  of  steps,  guarded  on  either  side 
by  a  statue  of  an  elephant.  The  hill- 
side is  in  many  places  excessively  steep, 
and  the  mode  of  conveyance  is  the  doli, 
a  seat  or  tray  18  in.  square,  slung  from 
two  poles  and  carriea  by  four  men. 
Few  of  the  higher -class  pilgrims  are 
able  to  make  the  ascent  on  foot,  so  there 
is  an  ample  supply  of  doUs  and  bearers. 

Satmnjaya  or  Shatrunjaya  hill  is 
truly  a  city  of  temples,  for,  except  a 
few  tanks,  there  is  nothing  else  within 
the  gates,  and  there^  a  cleanliness 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


154 


ROUTE  7.       AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


withal,  about  every  square  and  pass- 
age, porch  and  hall,  that  is  itself  no 
mean  source  of  pleasure.  The  silence 
too  is  striking.  Now  and  then  in  the 
mornings  you  hear  a  bell  for  a  few 
seconds,  or  the  beating  of  a  drum  for  as 
short  a  time,  and  on  holidays  chants 
from  the  larger  temples  meet  your  ear ; 
but  generally  during  the  after-part  of 
the  day  the  only  sounds  are  those  of 
vast  flocks  of  pigeons  that  fly  about 
spasmodically  from  the  roof  of  one 
temple  to  that  of  another.  Paroquets 
and  squirrels,  doves  and  ringdoves 
abound,  and  peacocks  are  occasionally 
met  with  on  the  outer  walls.  The  top 
of  the  hill  consists  of  two  ridges,  each 
about  350  yds.  long,  with  a  valley  be- 
tween. Each  of  these  ridces,  and  the 
two  large  enclosures  that  flu  the  valley, 
are  surrounded  by  massive  battlemented 
walls  fitted  for  defence.  The  buildings 
on  both  ridges  again  are  divided  into 
separate  enclosures  called  tuks,  generaDy 
containing  one  principal  temple,  with 
varying  numbers  of  smaller  ones.  Each 
of  these  enclosures  is  protected  by  strong 
gates  and  walls,  ana  all  gates  are  care- 
fully closed  at  sundown." 

Ko  attempt  is  made  to  describe  the 
shrines  in  detail;  their  general  char- 
acter is  so  often  repeated  that  it  would 
only  be  possible  to  do  so  with  the  aid 
of  profuse  illustrations.  The  area  en- 
closed on  the  top  is  small  enough  for 
any  one  of  ordinary  activity  to  see  all 
over  it  in  the  course  of  a  two  hours*  visit. 

There  is  one  gate  leading  into  the 
enclosure,  but  there  are  19  gates  within, 
leading  to  the  19  chief  Pagodas.  Not 
far  from  the  Eam-pol  (pol  means  gate) 
is  a  resting-place  used  by  persons  of  dis- 
tinction, with  a  tolerable  room  sur- 
rounded by  open  arches. 

James  Fergusson  says : — 

**The  grouping  together  of  these 
temples  into  what  may  be  called  *  Cities 
of  Temples,'  is  a  peculiarity  which  the 
Jains  practised  to  a  greater  extent  than 
the  followers  of  any  other  religion  in 
India.  The  Buddhists  grouped  their 
stupas  and  viharas  near  and  around 
sacred  spots,  as  at  Sanchi,  Manikyala, 
or  in  Peshawur,  and  elsewhere;  but 
they  were  scattered,  and  each  was  sup- 

'>8e(i  to  have  a  special  meaning,  or  to 


mark  some  sacred  spot.  The  Hindus 
also  grouped  their  temples,  as  at  Bhuvan-  , 
eshwar  or  Benares,  m  great  numbers 
together ;  but  in  all  cases  because,  so 
far  as  we  know,  these  were  the  centres  of 
a  population  who  believed  in  the  gods 
to  wnom  the  temples  were  dedicated, 
and  wanted  them  for  the  purposes  of 
their  worship.  Neither  of  these  re- 
ligions, however,  possesses  such  a  gronp 
of  temples,  for  instance,  as  that  at 
Satrun j  aya,  in  Guzerat.  It  covers  a  very 
large  space  of  ground,  and  its  shnnes 
are  scattered  by  hundreds  over  the  sum- 
mits of  two  extensive  hills  and  in  the 
valley  between  them.  The  larger  ones 
are  situated  in  tuks,  or  separate  enclos- 
ures, surrounded  b^  high  fortified  walls ; 
the  smaller  ones  Ime  the  silent  streets. 
It  is  a  city  of  the  gods,  and  meant  for 
them  only,  and  not  intended  for  the 
use  of  mortals. 

"  All  the  peculiarities  of  Jain  archi- 
tecture are  found  in  a  m^e  marked 
degree  at  Palitana  than  at  almost  any 
other  known  place,  and,  fortunately  for 
the  student  of  the  style,  extending 
through  all  the  ages  during  which  it 
flourished.  Some  of  the  templesareas  old 
as  the  11th  century,  and  they  are  spread 
pretty  evenly  over  all  the  intervening 
time  down  to  the  present  century." 

James  Burgess  in  his  report  gives  the 
following  general  description  : — 

"  At  the  foot  of  the  ascent  there  are 
some  steps  with  many  little  canopies 
or  cells,  IJ  ft.  or  3  ft.  square,  open 
only  in  front,  and  each  having  in  its 
floor  a  marble  slab  carved  with  the 
representation  of  the  soles  of  two  feet 
{charan)f  very  flat  ones,  and  generally 
with  the  toes  all  of  one  length.  A 
little  behind,  where  the  ball  of  the 
great  toe  ought  to  be,  there  is  a 
diamond -shaped  mark  divided  into  four 
smaller  figures  by  two  cross  lines,  from 
the  end  of  one  of  which  a  curved  line 
is  drawn  to  the  front  of  the  foot 

"The  path  is  paved  with  rough  . 
stones  all  the  way  up,  only  interrupted 
here  and  there  by  regular  flights  of  j 
steps.  At  frequent  intervals  also  ther«  I 
are  rest-houses,  more  pretty  at  a  dii*  | 
tance  than  convenient  for  actual  i»e^^ 
but  stiU  deserving  of  attention.  Hi^ 
up,  we  come  to  a  small  temple  of  1 

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156 


Hindu  monkey  god,  Hanuman,  the 
image  bedaubed  with  vermilion  in 
ultra-barbaric  style.  At  this  point  the 
path  bifurcates  to  the  right  leading  to 
the  northern  peak,  and  to  the  left  to 
the  yalley  between,  and  through  it  to 
the  southern  summit.  A  little  higher 
up,  on  the  former  route,  is  the  shrine 
of  Hengar,  a  Mussulman  pw,  so  that 
Hindu  and  Moslem  alike  contend  for 
the  representation  of  their  creeds  on 
this  sacxed  hill  of  the  Jains. 

"On  reaching  the  summit  of  the 
mountain,  the  view  that  presents  itself 
from  the  top  of  the  walls  is  magnificent 
in  extent ;  a  splendid  setting  for  the 
unique  picture.  To  the  E.  the  pros- 
pect extends  to  the  Gulf  of  Cambay 
near  Gogo  and  Bhaunagar  ;  to  the  N.  it 
is  bounded  by  the  granite  range  of 
Sihor  and  the  Chamardi  peak  ;  to  the 
N.W.  and  W.  the  plain  extends  as 
Eur  as  the  eye  can  reach.  From  W. 
to  E.,  like  a  silver  ribbon  across  the 
foreground  to  the  S.,  winds  the  Satrun- 
jaya  river,  which  the  eye  follows  until 
it  is  lost  between  the  Talaja  and  Kho- 
kara  Hills  in  the  S.W.] 

[Excnrsion  to  Valabhipur. 
The  antiquarian  who  is  not  pressed 
for  time  may  care  from  Songad  to  visit 
the  site  of  the  ancient  city  of  Vala- 
bhipur, which  is  nearly  identical  with 
the  modern  town  of  Walah,  and  is  12  m. 
distant  by  road.  The  authorities  at 
Songad  will  always  arrange  the  journey. 
Valabhipur  was  perhaps  as  old  as  Rome, 
and  was  the  capital  of  all  this  part  of 
India.  The  present  town  (under  5000 
inhab.)  is  the  capital  of  one  of  the 
small  Kattywar  states.  It  has  been 
very  much  neglected.  There  are  scarcely 
any  architectural  remains  at  Walah, 
but  old  foundations  are  discovered,  and 
sometimes  coins,  copper  plates,  mud 
seals,  beads,  and  household  images  have 
bc«n  found  in  some  abundance.  The 
ruins  can  be  traced  over  a  large  area  of 
jungle.] 

Resuming  the  journey  from  Songad 
to  Bhaunagar, 

90  m.  Sihor  sta.  D.6.  This  was 
'  ct'OB^  time  the  capital  of  this  state. 
■  Tbe  |f|?n,  well  situated  IJ  m.  S.  of 


the  rly.,  has  some  interesting  Hindu 
Temples. 

103  m.  Bhaunagar.  9^  The  city  (of 
50,000  inhab.,  founded  1723)  stands 
on  a  tidal  creek  that  runs  into  the 
Gulf  of  Cambay.  The  head  of  the 
Gulf  above  this  creek  is  silting  up  so 
rapidly  that  it  is  very  difficult  to  main- 
tain the  necessary  depth  of  water  for 
native  trading  vessels  and  coasting 
steamers.  The  Bhaunagar  state  has 
from  its  first  connection  with  the 
British  Government  been  administered 
by  men  of  intelligence,  and  the  town 
will  be  found  a  most  pleasing  sample  of 
the  results  of  native  Indian  government 
going  hand  in  hand  with  European 
progress.  The  staple  export  is  cotton. 
There  are  no  interesting  ruins,  but 
abundance  of  very  handsome  modern 
buildings  on  Indian  models,  water 
works,  reservoirs,  and  gardens ;  and  at 
the  port  will  be  seen  an  intelligent 
adoption  of  modem  mechanical  im- 
provements. 

The  traveller,  if  he  proposes  to  visit 
Junagadh,  Somnath,  Porbandar,  or 
any  places  in  the  W.,  must  return  to 
Bhota  June,  and  change  there.  There  is 
nothing  to  detain  him  until  he  reaches 

Jetalsar  June.  sta.  (R.)  152  m.  from 
Wadhwan.  This  place  is  the  residence 
of  the  Assist.  Political  Agent  for  the 
S.  or  Sorath  division  of  the  Province 
of  Kattywar.  Here  the  line  branches 
(1)  S.  to  Verawal  for  SomimtK  (2)  W. 
to  PorhandaTf  p.  162,  and  (3)  N.  to 
Eajkot,  Vankaner  and  Wadhwan^  p. 
165. 

(1)  Jetalsar  to  Verawal, 
16.  m.  (from  Jetalsar),  Junagadh  (the 
old  fort)  sta.,  j^  D.B.,  W.  of  the  town, 
opposite  a  modem  gateway,  called  the 
Eeay  Gate;  the  capital  of  the  state,  and 
the  residence  of  the  Nawab.  Pop.  30,000. 
Situated  as  it  is  under  the  Giraar  and 
Datar  Hills,  it  is  one  of  the  most  pic- 
turesque towns  in  India,  while  in  anti- 
quity and  historical  interest  it  yields  to 
tew.  The  scenery  from  the  hills  around 
is  most  pleasing,  and  the  place  has 
attractions  wanting  in  most  ancient 
Indian  towns,  which,  as  a  rale,  are  situ- 
ated in  uninteresting  plains.  There  is 
a  great  deal  of  game  in  Kattywar,  and 

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BOUTE  7.      AHHBBABAI)  TO  SOHNATH 


India 


specially  in  the  Oir,  the  large  unculti- 
vated tract  to  the  S.E.  of  Junajgadh ; 
but  the  Gir  is  very  unhealthy  in  the 
early  part  of  the  autumn,  and  again  at 
the  beginning  of  the  rains. 

The  fortifications  of  the  present  town 
were  all  built  by  the  Mohammedans 
after  the  capture  of  the  place  by  Sultan 
Mahmud  Bigadah,  of  Guzerat,  about 
1472.  The  Nawab's  Palace  is  a  fine 
modernised  building.  In  front  of  it  is 
a  good  circle  of  shops  called  the  Mahubat 
Oirde,  The  Arts  College  was  designed 
and  built  by  a  local  architect,  and  was 
opened  by  Lord  Curzon  in  Nov.  1900. 

The  Tombs  of  the  Nawabs  are  highly 
finished  buildings.  Fergusson  says: 
''There  is  a  cemetery  at  Junagadh 
where  there  exists  a  group  of  tombs  all 
erected  within  this  century,  some  within 
the  last  20  or  30  years,  which  exhibit, 
more  nearly  than  any  others  I  am  ac- 
quainted with,  the  forms  towards  which 
the  style  was  tending.  The  style  is  not 
without  a  certain  amount  of  elegance 
in  detail.  The  tracery  of  the  windows 
is  executed  with  precision  and  appropri- 
ateness." Entering  the  enclosure  by 
the  N.  gate,  the  tomb  of  Bahadur  Khan 
II.  is  in  front  on  the  L,  next  to  it  the 
tomb  of  Hamed  Khan  II.,  and  on  its 
1.  that  of  Ladii  Bu,  a  lady  whose  mar- 
riage, and  the  influence  she  gained, 
caused  no  slight  difficulty  to  this  state, 
and  no  little  trouble  in  the  Political 
Agency.  Beside  these  is  the  tomb  of 
Nawab  Mohobat  Khan,  in  Saracenic 
style,  and  finely  carved.  ^  m.  beyond 
the  N.  gate  of  the  town  is  the  Sakar 
Bagh,  a  well  hdd-out  garden  that  be- 
long to  the  Vazir.  There  is  a  two- 
stoned  villa,  surrounded  by  a  moat  full 
of  water.  About  50  yds.  from  the  house 
is  a  menagerie,  in  which  are  panthers, 
deer,  etc.  In  a  still  finer  garden  at  the 
S.  of  the  town,  the  Sardar  Bagh,  are 
kept  a  number  of  lions  and  lionesses 
from  the  Gir  forest.  There  are  no 
tigers  in  the  Kattywar  peninsula,  but 
up  to  the  middle  of  the  present  century 
lions  inhabited  all  the  large  jungles, 
and  were  shot  in  the  Choteyla  Hills  E.  of 
Rajkot.  Now  the  animal  is  confined  to 
the  Gir.  The  lion  is  in  no  way  inferior 
to  the  African  species,  although  the  mane 
is  not  so  large.  The  Gir  lion  is  not  a  man- 


eater  usuallv,  but  Col.  J.  "W.  Watson 
has  heard  of  one  or  two  well-authenti- 
cated instances  of  his  killing  men. 

The  soft  sandstone  which  everywhere 
underlies  Junagadh  is  an  interesting 
study.  Formed  apparently  in  very  shal- 
low water,  it  shows  on  all  sides  compH- 
cated  lines  of  stratification.  The  facility 
with  which  itis  worked  maybe  onereason 
why  it  has  been  largely  excavated  into 
cave-dwellings  in  Buddhist  times. 

The  Cayes. — In  the  N.  part  of  the 
town  enclosure,  near  the  old  telegraph 
office,  is  the  group  called  the  Khapra 
Khodia,  These  caves  appear  to  have 
been  a  monastery,  and  bear  the  cogniz- 
ance of  the  then  ruling  race,  a  winged 
griffin  or  lion.  They  appear  to  have 
been  two  or  three  stories  high.  They 
are,  however,  excavated  in  good  building 
stone,  and  the  modem  quarrymen  have 
been  allowed  to  encroach  and  injure 
them  ;  the  lower  ones  have  never  been 
systematically  cleared  out.  The  most 
interesting  caves  of  all  are  situated  in 
the  Uparkot,  about  60  yds.  N.  of  the 
great  mosque.  They  are  now  closed  by 
an  iron  gate.  They  consist  of  two 
stories,  the  lower  chambers  being  11 
ft.  high.  Mr.  Burgess  says:  **Few 
bases  could  be  found  anywhere  to  excel 
in  beauty  of  design  and  richness  of 
carving  those  of  the  six  principal 
pillars. "  Inside  the  Waghesh  wan  Gate, 
through  which  theGimar  isapproachedi 
are  the  caves  known  by  the  name  of 
Bavxi  Piara^  a  comparatively  modem 
Hindu  ascetic  who  is  said  to  have  resided 
in  them. 

The  Uparkot^  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
city,  used  as  a  jail  until  1858,  is 
now  practically  deserted.  It  was  the 
citadel  of  the  old  Hindu  princes,  and  is 
probably  the  spot  from  whence  Junagadh 
derives  its  name.  Permission  to  visit 
it  must  be  asked.  Without  presenting 
any  very  special  features  to  describe,  the 
Uparkot  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of 
old  forts.  The  parapets  on  the  £. ,  where 
the  place  is  commanded  by  higher 
ground,  have  been  raised  at  least  three 
times  to  give  cover  against  the  in- 
creasinglylongrangeofprojectiles.  The 
views  from  the  walls  are  delightful. 
Here  were  quartered  the  lieutenants  of 
the  great  Asoka  (250  B.O.),  and,  later. 


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1.  Wagheshwari  Gate. 

2.  Asoka's  Stone. 
8.  Bridge. 

4.  Temple  of  Damodar. 

5.  ,,      „    Savanath. 

6.  „      ,,    Bhavanath. 

7.  Chadd-ni-wao  Well. 

8.  Wagheshwari  Temple. 

9.  Bhairo-Thumpa. 

10.  Oaomuki  Temple. 

11.  Amba  Deva  Temple. 


12.  Mdliparah  Khund. 

13.  Datdtari. 

14.  Hdthi  pagla  Ehund. 

15.  Sesd wan  Temple. 

16.  Hanmandhara  Ehond  and  Temple. 

17.  Kamandal  Temple. 

18.  Sakri  dmbli. 

19.  Malbela. 

20.  Suraj  Khund. 
31.  Sarkharia. 

22.  Bawaba  Madhi. 


To  face  p.  157, 


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ROUTE  7.      JUNAGADH QIRNAR 


157 


those  of  the  Gupta  kings.  The  entrance 
is  beyond  the  town,  in  the  W.  wall,  and 
consists  of  three  gateways,  one  inside 
the  other.  The  fort  walls  here  are  from 
60  to  70  ft  high,  forming  a  massive 
duster  of  buildings.  The  inner  gate- 
way, a  beautiful  specimen  of  the  Hindu 
Toran,  has  been  topped  by  more  recent 
Mohammedan  work,  but  the  general 
effect  is  still  good  and,  wim  the 
approach  cut  through  the  solid  rock, 
impressive.  On  the  rampart  above 
the  ^te  is  an  inscription  of  Manda- 
lika  V.  dated  1450.  Proceeding  160 
yds.  to  the  left,  through  a  grove  of 
sUaphal  (custard  apples),  you  come  to 
a  huge  10  in. -bore  caanon  of  bell-metal, 
17  ft  longand  4  ft  7  in.  round  at  the 
mouth.  This  gun  was  brought  from 
Dio,  where  it  was  left  by  the  Turks. 
There  is  an  Arabic  inscription  at  the 
muzzle,  which  may  be  translated :  ^  *  The 
order  to  make  this  cannon,  to  be  used 
in  the  service  of  the  Almighty,  was 

flven  by  the  Sultan  of  Arabia  and 
ersia.  Sultan  Sulaiman,  son  of  Salim 
Khan.  May  his  triumph  be  glorified, 
to  punish  the  enemies  of  the  State  and 
of  the  Faith,  in  the  capital  of  E^ypt, 
1631."  At  the  breech  is  inscribed, 
^The  work  of  Muhammad,  the  son  of 
Hamzah."  Another  large  cannon  called 
Chudanal,  also  from  Diu,  in  the  southern 
portion  of  the  fort,  is  18  ft  long,  and  has 
«  muzzle  14  in.  diameter.  STear  this 
is  the  Jmnma  Musjid,  evidently 
constructed  from  the  materials  of  a 
Hindu  temple.  Mr.  Burgess  says  it 
was  built  by  Mahmud  Begadah.  One 
plain,  slim  minaret  remains  standing, 
but  the  mosque  is  almost  a  complete 
ruin.  The  ascent  to  the  terraced  roof 
is  by  a  good  staircase  outside. 

The  Tomb  of  Niiri  Shah,  close  to  the 
mosoue,  is  ornamented  with  fluted 
cupolas,  and  a  most  peculiar  carving 
over  the  door.  There  are  two  Wells  in 
the  TJparkot — the  Adi  Chadi^  said  to 
have  been  built  in  ancient  times  by 
the  slave  girls  of  the  Chudasama  rulers, 
is  descended  by  a  long  flight  of  steps 
(the  sides  of  the  descent  show  the  most 
reroarkable  overlappings  and  changes 
of  lie  in  the  strata,  for  which  alone  it 
is  "worth  a  visit  to  any  one  with  geo- 
logical tastes) ;  and  the  Naughan^  out 


to  a  great  depth  in  the  soft  rock,  and 
with  a  wonderful  circular  staircase. 

There  is  a  fine  dharmsala  belonging 
to  the  goldsmiths  near  the  Waghesh- 
wari  Gate. 

The  mountain  Gimar  is  the  great 
feature  of  Junagadh,  and  the  Jain 
temples  upon  it  are  amongst  the  most 
ancient  in  the  country.  It  is  3666  ft. 
high,  and  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
mountains  in  India.  From  the  city  of 
Junagadh  only  the  top  of  it  can  be  seen, 
as  it  has  in  front  of  it  lower  hills,  of 
which  Jogniya,  or  Laso  Pawadi,  2627 
ft.,  Lakshman  Tekri,  Bensla,  2290  ft. 
high,  and  Datar,  2779  ft.  high,  are  the 
principal.  Girnar  was  anciently  called 
Kaivata  or  Ujja^anta,  sacred  amongst 
the  Jains  to  Neminath,  the  22d  Tirthui- 
kar,  and  doubtless  a  place  of  pilgrimage 
before  the  days  of  Asbka,  260  B.o. 

The  traveller,  in  order  to  reach  Gimar, 
will  passthroughtheWagheshwariQate, 
which  is  close  to  the  TJparkot.  At 
about  200  yds.  from  the  gate,  to  the 
^rht  of  the  road,  is  the  Temple  of 
Wacheshwari,  which  is  joined  to  the 
road,  by  a  causeway  about  160  yds. 
long.  In  front  of  it  is  a  modem  temple, 
three  stories  high,  very  ugly,  nat- 
roofed,  and  quite  plain.  Alwut  a  fur- 
long beyond  this  is  a  stone  bridge,  and 
just  beyond  it  the  famous  Asoka  Stone. 
It  is  a  round  boulder  of  granite,  measur- 
ing roughly  20  ft.  x30  ft.,  and  is 
covered  witn  inscriptions,  which  prove 
on  examination  to  be  14  Edicts  of 
Asoka  (250  b.o.)i  Nearlv  identical 
inscriptions  have  been  found  at  Dhauli, 
near  Peshawur,  and  elsewhere.  The 
character  is  Pali. 

On  leaving  Asoka's  Stone,  cross  the 
handsome  bridge  over  the  Sonarekha, 
which  here  forms  a  fine  sheet  of  water, 
then  pass  a  number  of  temples,  at 
first  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river  and 
then  on  the  rt.,  where  Jogis  go  about 
entirely  naked,  to  the  largest  of  the 
ten^les  dedicated  to  Damodar,  a  name 
of  Knshna,  from  Dam,  a  rope,  because 
at  this  spot  his  mother  in  vain  at- 
tempted to  confine  him  with  a  rope 
when  a  child.    The  reservoir  at  this 

1  See  We  0/  John  fFOww,  Jf.JJ.5.,  by  Dr.  G. 
Smith,  for  picture  and  account  of  the  stone ; 
or  Burgess,  Second  Archascl.  Bepwt. 


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ROUTE  7.       AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


place  is  accounted  very  sacred.  The 
path  is  now  through  a  wooded  valley, 
with  some  fine  Indian  fig  trees.  Near 
a  cluster  of  them  is  an  old  shrine  called 
Bhayanath,  a  name  of  Shiva.  There 
are  a  number  of  large  monkeys  here, 
who  come,  on  being  called.     Unless 


well  called  the  Chadd-ni-wao.  The 
paved  way  begins  just  beyond  this  and 
continues  for  two-thirds  of  the  ascent, 
and  may  be  divided  into  three  parts  ; 
at  the  end  of  the  first  the  first  rest- 
house,  Chodia-pa,raba,  is  reached,  480 
ft.  above  the  plain.     The  second  halt- 


Temple  of  Nimnath,  Qimar. 


the  traveller  be  a  veiy  good  climber, 
he  will  do  well  to  get  into  a  doli,  for 
which  he  will  pay  3  or  4  rs.  according 
to  tariff.  A  long  ridge  runs  up  from 
the  W.,  and  culminates  in  a  rugged 
scarped  rock,  on  the  top  of  which  are 
the  temples.     Close  to  the  Mandir  is  a 


ing-place  is  Dholi-deri,  1000  ft  above 
the  plain.  There  the  ascent  becomes 
more  difficult,  winding  under  the  face 
of  the  precipice  to  the  third  rest-house, 
1400  ft.  up.  So  far  there  is  nothijag 
very  trying  to  any  one  with  an  ordin- 
arily steady  brain.     But  after  that  the 

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159 


path  turns  to  the  right  along  the  edge 
of  a  precipice,  and  consists  of  steps  cut 
in  the  rock,  and  so  narrow  that  the 
doli  grazes  the  scarp,  which  rises  per- 
pendicularly 200  ft.  above  the  travel- 
ler. On  the  right  is  seen  the  lofty 
mountain  of  DcUar,  covered  with  low 
jungle.  At  about  1500  ft.  there  is  a 
stone  dharmsala,  and  from  this  there 
is  a  fine  view  of  the  rock  called 
Bhairav-Thampa,  which  means  "the 
terrific  leap. "  It  was  so  called  l)ecause 
devotees  used  to  cast  themselves  from 
its  top,  falling  1000  ft  or  more. 

At  2370  ft  above  Junagadh  the  gate 
of  the  enclosure  known  as  the  Deva 
Eota,  or  Ra  Khengar's  Palace,  is  reached. 
On  entering  the  gate,  the  large  enclosure 
of  the  temples  is  on  the  left,  while  to 
the  right  is  the  old  granite  temple  of 
Man  Sing,  Bhoja  Rajah  of  Cutch,  and 
farther  on  the  much  larger  one  of 
Vastupala  (see  below).  Built  into  the 
wall  on  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  an 
inscription  in  Sanscrit.  Some  16  Jain 
temples  here  form  a  sort  of  fort  on  the 
ledge  at  the  top  of  the  great  cliff,  but 
still  600  ft.  below  the  summit  The 
largest  temple  is  that  of  Neminatha  (see 
plan,  p.  158)  standing  in  a  quadrangular 
court  195  X 130  ft.  It  consists  of  two 
halls  (with  two  porches,  called  by  the 
Hindus  mandapamsX  and  the  slmne, 
which  contains  a  large  black  image  of 
Neminath,  the  22d  Tirthankar,  with 
naassive  gold  ornaments  and  jewels. 
Bound  the  shrine  is  a  passage  with 
many  images  in  white  marble.  Be- 
tween the  outer  and  inner  halls  are 
two  shrines.  The  outer  hall  has  two 
small  raised  platforms  paved  with  slabs 
of  yellow  stone,  covered  with  repre- 
sentations of  feet  in  pairs,  which  repre- 
sent the  2452  feet  of  the  first  disciples. 
On  the  W.  of  this  is  a  porch  overhang- 
ing the  perpendicular  scarp.  On  two 
of  the  pillars  of  the  mandapam  are  in- 
scriptions dated  1275, 1281,  and  1278, 
~4ate8  of  restoration,  when  Burgess 
says  it  was  covered  with  a  coating  of 
chuuam,  and  "  adorned  with  coats  of 
whitewash  "  within.  The  enclosure  is 
nearly  surrounded  inside  by  70  cells, 
each  enshrining  a  marble  image,  with 
\  covered  passage  in  front  of  them 
^o^deA  by  a  perforated  stone  screen. 


The  principal  enti-ance  was  originally 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  court,  but  it  is 
now  closed,  and  the  entrance  from  the 
court,  in  Ehengar's  Palace,  is  that  now 
used.  There  is  a  passage  leading  into 
a  low  dark  temple,  with  granite  pillars 
in  lines.  Opposite  the  entrance  is  a 
recess  containing  two  large  black  im- 
ages ;  in  the  back  of  the  recess  is  a  lion 
rampant,  and  over  it  a  crocodile  in 
bas-relief.  Behind  these  figures  is  a 
room  from  which  is  a  descent  into  a 
cave,  with  a  larse  white  marble  image, 
an  object  of  the  most  superstitious 
venei-ation  by  the  Jains,  which  the 
priests  usually  try  to  conceal.  It  has 
a  slight  hollow  in  the  shoulder,  said  to 
be  caused  by  water  dropping  from  the 
ear,  whence  it  was  called  Amijhera, 
"nectar  drop."  In  the  N.  porch  are 
inscriptions  which  state  that  in  Samwat 
1215  certain  Thakors  completed  the 
shrine,  and  built  the  Temple  of  Ambika. 
After  leavingthis,  there  are  three  temples 
to  the  left.  That  on  the  S.  side  contains 
a  colossal  image  of  Bishabha  Deva, 
the  1st  Tirthankar,  exactly  like  that 
at  Satrunjaya,  called  Bhim-Padam. 
On  the  throne  of  this  image  is  a 
slab  of  yellow  stone  carved  in  1442, 
with  figures  of  the  24  Tirthankars. 
Opposite  this  temple  is  a  modem  one 
to  Panchabai.  W.  of  it  is  a  large 
temple  called  Malakamsi,  sacred  to 
Parshwanath.  N.  again  of  this  is 
another  temple  of  Parshwanath,  which 
contains  a  large  white  marble  image 
canopied  by  a  cobra,  whence  it  is  called 
SheshpTvanit  **an  arrangement  not  un- 
frequently  found  in  the  S.  but  rare  in 
the  N."  (Fergusson).  It  bears  a  date 
=  1803.  The  last  temple  to  the  N.  is 
Kumarapala's,  which  has  a  long  open 
portico  on  the  W.,  and  appears  to  have 
been  destroyed  by  the  Mohammedans, 
and  restored  in  1824  by  Hansraia  Jetha. 
These  temples  are  along  the  W.  face  of 
the  hill,  and  are  all  endosed.  Outside 
to  the  N.  is  the  Bhima  Eunda,  a  tank 
70  ft  X  50  ft.,  in  which  Hindus  bathe. 
"Immediately  behind  the  temple  of 
Neminatha  is  the  triple  one  erected  by 
the  brothers  Tejahpala  and  Vastupala 
(built  1177)."  The  plan  is  that  of  3 
temples  joined  together.  The  shrine 
has  an  image  of  Mallinath,  the  19th 

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ROUTE  7.   AHMEDABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


Tirtliankar.  Farther  N.  is  the  temple 
of  Samprati  Raja.  This  temple  is 
probably  one  of  the  oldest  on  the  hill, 
date  1158.  Samprati  is  said  to  have 
ruled  at  Ujjain  in  the  end  of  the  3d 
cent.  B.C.,  and  to  have  been  the  son 
of  Kunala,  Asoka's  third  son.  S.  of 
this,  and  200  ft.  above  the  Jain  temples, 
is  the  Gawmukha  Shrine,  near  a  plenti- 
ful spring  of  water.  From  it  the  crest 
of  the  mountain  (3380  ft.)  is  reached  by 
a  steep  flight  of  stairs.  Here  is  an 
ancient  temple  of  Amba  Mata,  which 


or  attendant  of  the  shrine  is  seen  in 
front.  To  the  rt.  is  a  stone  platform 
surrounding  an  unusually  fine  manffo 
tree,  with  a  tank  just  beyond,  and  tne 
shrine  of  Datar,  a  building  80  ft  bigh 
with  a  fluted  cone  at  top.  Here  it  is 
necessary  to  take  off  one's  shoes.  The 
shrine  and  the  whole  place  are  very 
attractive. 

There  is  a  Leper  Asylum  near  the 
Datar  Temple  for  100  lepers  of  both 
sexes,  built  at  the  expense  of  the  Vazir 
Sahib  Bahu-ud-din.      H.R.H.   Prince 


J"^ 


Temple  of  Tejahpala  and  Vastupala,  Gimar. 


is  much  resorted  to  by  newly-married 
couples  of  the  Brahman  caste.  The 
bride  and  bridegroom  have  their  clothes 
tied  together,  and  attended  by  their 
male  and  female  relations,  adore  the 
goddess  and  present  cocoa-nuts  and 
other  offerings.  This  pilgrimage  is 
supposed  to  procure  for  the  couple  a 
long  continuance  of  wedded  bliss.  To 
the  E.,  not  far  off,  are  the  3  rocky 
spires  of  the  Gorakhnath,  the  Neminath 
or  Gtird-dattAraya,  and  the  Kalika  Peaks. 
S.E.  of  the  Verawal  Gate  of  Juna- 
gadh  is  the  Sbrine  of  Jamal  Sbah  or 
Datar.  After  passing  under  a  low  arch 
near  the  city,  the  house  of  the  Mujawir 


Albert  Victor  laid  the  foundation-stone 
in  1890.  Above  it,  4  m.  in  S.E.  direc- 
tion, is  the  Datar  peak  (2779  ft.) 

On  the  summit  of  the  hill  is  a  small 
shrine,  and  a  very  beautiful  view.  The 
hill  is  held  sacred  by  Mohammeduis 
and  Hindus  alike,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  a  beneficial  effect  on  lepers,  who 
repair  to  it  in  considerable  numbers. 

61  m.  Verawal  sta.  i^  The  nulway 
terminus  is  on  the  W.  side  of  the  city, 
close  to  the  walls,  and  about  i  m.  from 
the  lighthouse  at  the  landing-place. 
This  is  a  very  ancient  sea-port,  and 
probably  owes  its  existence  to  its  more 
celebrated  neighbour  Patan  SanvtuM 

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161 


It  rose  into  notice  daring  the  time  of 
the  Gnzerat  saltans,  and  in  Hieir  reigns 
became,  antil  superseded  by  Sarat,  the 
principal  port  of  embarkation  for 
Mohammedan  pilgrims  to  Mecca.  It 
is  still  a  flourishing  little  seaport  In 
the  Temple  Haraad  Mata  is  a  celebrated 
inscription  (1264),  recording  that  a 
mosrjne  was  endowed  in  that  year,  and 
bearing  dates  in  four  different  eras. 
It  was  from  this  inscription  that  it  was 
discovered  that  the  Valabhi  era  com- 
menced in  319  A.D.,  and  the  Shri  Sing 
era  from  1113  a.d.  The  river  Devka 
ifows  to  the  N.  of  Verawal,  and  joins 
the  sea  at  a  place  called  Dani  Baru. 
The   Jaleshvar    Temple,    about  2   m. 


Red  Sea,  Persian  Gulf,  and  African 
coast.  The  place  is  renowned  in  Hindu 
mythology.  It  was  here  the  Jadavs  slew 
each  other,  and  here  Krishna  was  shot 
by  the  Bhil.  In  the  6ir  forest,  inland 
from  Patan,  is  the  only  place  in  India 
where  there  are  one  or  two  separate 
communities  of  African  negroes.  Mah- 
mud  of  Ghazni  conquered  the  town  in 
1025  A.D.,  and  it  appears  that  he  left 
behind  a  Mohammedan  Governor. 
Subsequently  the  Hindus  recovered 
their  power,  but  it  was  again  cast  down 
by  Alagh  Khan  circa  1300  A.D.,  and 
the  coast  belt  or  Nagher  kingdom  con- 
quered. From  this  date  Moham- 
medan supremacy  prevailed  throughout 


Verawal  and  Patan. 


Stmn^cnta  Gettf* . 


N.W.  from  the  town,  at  the  mouth  on 
the  right  bank,  is  of  great  antiquity. 
On  the  S.  W.  face  of  Verawal  there  is. a 
modern  sea-wall  and  an  unfinished 
stone  pier,  with  a  lighthouse  at  the  end 
of  it.  A  large  Custom  House  has  been 
built  on  the  sea  face,  and  near  it  is  a 
dock  established  on  reclaimed  land. 

On  the  sea-shore,  nearly  3  m.  to  the 
S.EL ,  is  Patan  Somnath,  also  known  as 
Prabhas  Patan,  or  Deva  Patan,  the 
Semmab  of  Marco  Polo.  The  anchor- 
a^^es  at  Verawal  and  Patan  are  so  bad 
th»t  it  is  hard  to  account  for  the  un- 
donbted  fact  that  from  the  earliest 
tim^  they  carried  on  a  trade  with  the 


the  belt,  and  from  the  reign  of  Muham- 
mad Tughlak  regular  governors  were 
appointed.  Finally,  owing  to  the  gal- 
lantry and  statesmanship  of  Diwan 
Amarji,  it  was  conquered  by  the  Nawab 
of  Junagadh  in  whose  hands  it  remains. 

About  the  middle  of  the  15th  cent. 
Somnath  (with  Verawal)  had  become 
the  principal  port  of  embarkation  for 
Mohammedan  pilgrims  to  the  cities 
of  Mecca  and  Madinah,  and  this  lasted 
till  it  was  superseded  by  Surat. 
Though  it  is  eclipsed  now  as  far  as 
wealth  and  population  are  concerned, 
by  the  adjacent  port  of  Verawal,  it  is 
still  an  important  town. 

Proceeding  from  Verawal  to  Patan  by 

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162 


ROUTE  7.       AHMED ABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


the  road,  to  the  rt.  is  a  vast  burial- 
ground,  with  thousands  of  tombs,  and 
palias.  There  are  also  buildings  which 
well  deserve  examination  after  the  tra- 
veller has  seen  the  city.  The  Junagadh, 
or  W.  Gate,  by  which  Patau  is  entered, 
is  a  triple  gate,  and  is  clearly  of  Hindu 
architecture.  The  centre  part  of  the 
first  division  of  the  gateway  is  very 
ancient,  and  is  shown  to  be  Hindu  by 
the  carving  of  two  elephants  on  either 
side  pouring  water  over  Lakshmi ;  but 
the  figure  of  the  goddess  is  almost 
obliterated. 

After  passing  the  second  gate  on  the 
left,  is  the  W.  wall  of  a  mosque  of  the 
time  of  Mahmud.  There  is  no  inscrip- 
tion in  it,  but  its  antiquity  is  so  crecUted 
that  the  Nawab  has  assigned  the 
revenue  of  three  villages  for  keeping  it 
in  order.  After  passing  the  third 
portal  of  the  Junagadh  Gateway,  there 
are  four  stones  on  the  right  hand,  of 
which  two  have  Guzerati,  and  two  San- 
scrit inscriptions.  Driving  on  straight 
through  the  bazaar,  which  is  very 
narrow,  and  has  quaint  old  houses  on 
either  side,  the  Jwmma  Musjid  is 
reached.  The  entrance  is  by  a  porch, 
which  has  been  a  mandir  in  front  of  a 
Hindu  temple. 

The  most  interesting  part  of  this  very 
ancient  building  is,  that  in  each  of  the 
four  corners  is  a  carving  of  two  human 
figures,  with  the  Bo  tree  between  them. 
A  low  door  in  the  W.  side  of  the  porch 
leads  into  the  court  of  the  mosque, 
which  is  much  ruined ;  it  has  been 
deserted  for  25  years,  and  inhabited  by 
Moslem  fishermen,  who  dry  their  fish 
in  it. 

To  reach  the  Old  Temple  of  Som- 
nath  it  is  necessary  to  drive  through 
the  bazaar  of  Patau  and  turn  to  the 
right.  The  temple  is  close  to  the  sea. 
Fergusson  considers  that  it  was  prob- 
ably never  a  large  temple,  but  adds  that 
the  dome  of  its  porch,  which  measures 
33  ft.  across,  is  as  large  as  any  we  know 
of  its  age.  The  interior  of  the  porch  is 
V^  Jiow  in  its  ruins  very  striking. 
From  what  fragments  of  its  sculptured 
oecorationa  remain,  they  must  have 
^t2i,-  ^®**  beauty,  quite  equal  to 
anythmg  we  know  of  thiJ  class  of  their 
age.      It  was,  no  doubt,  like  the  temple 


of  Neminath,  on  Gimar,  surrounded  bj 
an  enclosure  which  would  make  it  a 
strong  place.     Now  the  temple  stands 


flan  of  Temple  of  Somnath  by  J.  Bui^gess. 

alone,  stripped  even  of  its  marble ;  like, 
but  superior  to,  the  temples  at  Dabhoi 
and  liakkundi.  There  are  three  en- 
trances to  the  porch,  and  a  corridor 
round  the  central  octagonal  space, 
which  was  covered  by  the  gi-eat  dome, 
There  are  four  smaller  domes.  The 
dome  in  the  centre  is  supported  by 
eight  pillars  and  eight  arches,  and  no 
wood  seems  to  have  been  used.  The 
pillar  on  the  right  hand,  looking  from 
the  E.,  next  but  one  before  reaching 
the  adytum,  has  an  inscription,  which 
is  all  illegible  but  the  date,  Samwat 
1697  =  1640  A.D.  The  walls  on  the 
N.,  S.,  and  "W.  sides  have  each  two 
handsomely  carved  niches,  in  which 
there  have  been  idols. 

The  temple  is  said  to  have  been  first 
built  of  gold  by  Somraj,  then  of  silver 
by  Havana,  then  of  wood  by  Krishna, 
and  then  of  stone  by  Bhimdeva.  Thoo^ 
three  times  destroyed  by  the  Mohan- 
medans,  it  was  nevertheless  three  tioMt 
rebuilt,  and  so  late  as  1700  A.D.  Jtm 
still  a  plax^e  of  great  sanctity.  Bat  te 
1706  Aurangzib  ordered  its  destra< 

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ROUTE  7.       PATAN  SOMNATH 


163 


and  there  seems  every  reason  to  believe 
that  this  order  was  carried  out 

Sultan  Mahmud's  celebrated  expedi- 
tion was  in  1025  A.D. ;  he  seems  to  have 
marched  with  snch  rapidity,  by  way  of 
Guzerat,  that  the  Hindu  rajas  were 
unable  to  collect  their  forces  for  its 
defence.  Thence  he  seems  to  have 
marched  upon  Somnath,  and  after  a 
sharp  fight  for  two  days  to  have  con- 
quered both  the  city  and  the  temple. 
Immense  spoil  was  found  in  the  temple, 
and  after  a  short  stay  Mahmud  returned 
to  Ghazni.  It  was  on  this  occasion 
that  he  is  supposed  to  have  carried  off 
the  famous  so-called  *'  Gates  of  Som- 
flith,"  now  in  the  fort  at  Agra.  The 
traveller  may  at  once  dismiss  from  his 
miod  as  a  fable  that  the  gates  brought 
from  Ghazni  to  Agra  in  Lord  £llen- 
boiough's  time  were  taken  from  Som- 
m&L  They  are  of  Saracenic  design, 
and  are  constructed  of  Himalayan  cedar 
(seeAgra).^  Elliot  says  that  10,000  popu- 
lated viUai^es  were  held  by  the  temple  as 
an  endowment,  and  that  300  musicians 
and  500  dancing-girls  were  attached  to 
it  There  were  Sso  300  barbers  to  shave 
the  heads  of  the  pilgrims. 

The  eonflnence  of  the  Three  rivers, 
or  Triveni,  to  the  E.  of  the  town,  has 
been,  no  doubt,  a  sacred  spot  from 
times  of  remote  antiquity.  To  reach 
this  the  traveller  will  proceed  through 
theE.  gate,  called  the  ifamt,  or  "small," 
also  the  Sangam^  or  "confluence  gate." 
It  has  pilasters  on  either  side,  and  on 
the  capitals  figures  are  represented  issu- 
ing out  of  the  mouths  of  Makars,  a 
fabulous  crocodile,  which  in  Hindu 
mythology  is  the  emblem  of  the  God 
of  Love.  About  a  J  m.  E.  of  the  gate, 
(Httside  it,  you  come  to  a  pool  on  the 
right  hand,  called  the  Kund,  and  a 
small  building  on  the  left  called  the 
Adi  Tirth,  and  then  to  a  temple  and 
the  Tirth  of  Triveni,  where  people  are 
always  bathing.  The  stream  here  is 
from  200  to  300  yds.  broad,  and  runs 
into  the  sea.  N.  of  this,  about  200 
yds.  ofi^  is  the  Suraj  Mandir,  or  temple 
to  the  sun,  half  broken  down  by  Mah- 
Md,  standing  on  high  ground,  and 
woBdrously  old  and  curious.    Over  the 

VThere  is  a  beautiful  illustration  of  them 
Tm  vtfle'a  Uaroo  Polo. 


door  of  the  adytum  are  groups  of  figures, 
with  a  tree  between  each  two.  Inside 
the  adytum  is  a  round  red  mark  for 
the  sun,  not  ancient ;  and  below  is  a 
figure  of  a  goddess,  also  coloured  red. 
On  the  W.  and  S.  outer  walls  are  masses 
of  carving  much  worn.  At  the  bottom 
there  is  a  frieze  of  Keshari  lions,  that 
is,  lions  with  elephants'  trunks.  This 
temple  is  probably  of  the  same  age  as 
that  of  Somnath.  About  250  yds.  to 
the  W.  is  a  vast  tomb,  quite  plain  ;  and 
below,  in  a  sort  of  quarry,  is  a  subter- 
raneous temple,  which  is  called  Ahdi 
Shah's.  The  same  name  is  given  to 
a  mosque  with  six  cupolas  to  the  N., 
which  has  been  a  Hindu  temple. 

Returning  from  this,  and  re-entering 
the  Nana  Gate,  proceed  200  yds.  to  the 
N.W.,  where  is  the  temple  built  by 
Ahalya  Bai,  to  replace  the  ancient  Som- 
nath. Below  the  temple  is  another, 
reached  by  descending  22  steps.  Tlie 
dome  of  this  subterraneous  building  is 
supported  by  16  pillars.  The  temple 
itself  is  13  ft.  sq.  It  is  of  no  interest 
except  on  account  of  its  builder,  Ahalya 
Bai 

Returning  towards  Verawal,  about  \ 
m.  outside  the  Patau  Gate  is  the  Mai 
Puri,  which  in  ancient  times  was  a 
temple  to  the  sun.  The  carving  of 
this  building  is  exquisite,  and  in  better 
preservation  than  that  of  the  temple  of 
Somnath.  In  the  centre  of  the  build- 
ing is  an  enclosure  6  ft.  sq. ,  in  which 
Mai  Puri,  **the  Perfect  Mother,"  is 
buried.  A  legend  is  told  about  her, 
which  alleges  that  she  brought  about 
the  siege  of  Somnath  by  Mahmud. 
The  temple  or  mosque,  as  the  Moslems 
have  made  it,  contains  a  mass  of  old 
Hindu  carving,  still  beautiful  though 
mutilated.  This  temple  is  a  perfect 
gem,  and  ought  to  be  visited  by  every 
traveller.  About  300  yds.  to  the  E.  is 
a  plain  stone  enclosure  on  the  right  of 
the  road,  in  which  are  the  tombs  of 
J'afar  and  Muzaffar,  quite  plain,  but 
with  pillars  3  ft.  high  at  the  headstone. 
Not  far  from  the  Mai  Puri  is  the  tomb 
of  Silah  Shah.  There  is  a  curious  stand 
for  lamps  here  carved  in  stone,  in  the 
shape  of  a  crown.  To  the  S.E.,  about 
50  yds.,  is  the  tomb  of  Mangroli  Shah, 
which  has  been  restored.    Before  reach- 


164 


ROUTE  7.       AHMED ABAD  TO  SOMNATH 


India 


ing  the  shrine  you  pass  through  the 
porch  of  an  ancient  Hindu  temple. 

Not  far  from  this  spot  is  the  Bhid 
BJianjcm  Pagoda  on  the  sea -shore, 
locally  known  as  Bhidiyo,  very  old, 
perhaps  of  the  14th  century.  It  is  60 
ft.  high,  and  forms  a  good  mark  for 
sailors.  To  the  E.  of  the  pagoda  is  a 
clear  space,  where  Englishmen  coming 
from  Rajkot  pitch  their  tents. 

Many  coasting  steamers  call  at  Vera- 
wal,  and  a  traveller  can  go  by  sea  to 
Bombay  or  to  Porbandar,  Cutch,  or 
Karachi  If  he  desires  to  return  by 
land,  he  retraces  his  steps  to  Jetalsar 
June. 

(2)  Jetalsar  to  Porbandar, 

9  m.  Dhoraji,  an  important  com- 
mercial town,  pop.  16,000. 

79  m.,  Porbandar  terminal  sta., 
D.B.,  E.  of  the  town,  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name,  and  a  place  of  some 
interest.  It  is  identified  with  the  ancient 
city  of  Sudtopuri,  known  to  readers  of 
the  Bhagavata,  Near  this  is  an  old 
temple  of  Sudtoa.  The  line  is  con- 
tinued for  goods  traffic  along  the  shore 
to  the  creek  W.  of  the  town,  where  it  ter- 
minates in  a  wharf.  Here  the  traveller 
has  reached  a  very  old-world  corner, 
not  recomnjended  to  visitors  in  a  hurry, 
but  very  interesting  to  those  who  have 
leisure,  or  to  sportsmen.  The  coasting 
steamers  between  Bombay  and  Kar- 
achi touch  at  Porbandar. 

[The  places  of  interest  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood are — 

{a)  Shrinagar,  9  m.  N.W.  of  Porban- 
dar, believed  to  have  been  the  first 
capital  of  the  Jethwa  Rajputs.  There 
are  remains  of  an  ancient  temple  of 
the  sun. 

(h)  Mianiy  a  very  ancient  seaport 
18  m.  N.W.  of  Porbandar.  To  the 
extreme  N.W.  in  the  district  of 
Okhamandal,  directly  under  the  Gaek- 
war  of  Baroda  are  some  of  the  most 
sacred  Hindu  Temples  in  India,  e.g. 


at  that  time  by  the  British  Govern- 
ment, still  cling  to  their  former  tradi- 
tions by  which  each  man  believes  that 
he  is  a  prince  in  his  own  right. 

(c)  CAaya,  a  village  2  m.  S.E.  of 
Porbandar,  was  once  the  capital.  The 
old  palace  is  still  there. 

(d)  BiUshwa/r,  8  m.  N.  of  Ranawao 
sta.,  a  small  village  E.  of  the  Barda 
Hills.  There  is  here  a  fine  temple  of 
considerable  antiquity,  and  in  good 
preservation.  . 

(e)  GhumZi  or  BhumU,  is  about  12  m. 
N.  of  Bileshwar,  or  24  m.  from  Por- 
bandar by  the  road  passing  W.  of  the 
Barda  Hills.  This  place  is  now  abso- 
lutely ruined  and  deserted ;  it  was  the 
capital  of  the  Jethwaswhen  at  the  zenith 
of  their  power.  It  lies  in  a  gorge  of  the 
Barda  Hills ;  the  ruins  are  of  the  1 1th  or 
12th  century.  The  most  interesting 
remains  are  the  Lakhota,  the  Ganesh 
Dehra,  the  Bampol,  the  Jeta  Wao,  and 


ut  i/iie  piaue  were  a  wariiKe  briue  ui 
Rajputs,  called  **  WTuigire"  who  were 
uotorious  pirates  up  to  the  early  part 
af  the  19th  century,  and,  though  reduced 


the  group  of  temples  near  the  Son 
Kansari  Tank,  and  some  ruins  on  the 
summit  of  the  Abapura  Hill.  It  was 
at  one  time  a  large  flourishing  city.  It 
is  about  4  m.  S.  of  Bhanwar,  a  fort  be- 
longing to  tiie  Jam  of  Nawanagar.* 

40  m.  S.E.  from  Porbandar,  at  Mad- 
hayapur,  Krishna  is  said  to  have  been 
married.    There  is  an  important  temple 
dedicated  to  him  there.] 
(3)  JetaZsar  to  Rajkot,  Vankaner  and 
Wadhwan, 
23  m.  Oondal  is  the  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name,  and  the  residence 
of  the  chief.      It  is  a  cheerful,  well- 
cared-for  town,  with  many  handsome 
temples.   The  public  offices  are  situated 
outside  the  town  on  open  sites  sur- 
rounded by  ^rdens.     The  courtyard 
of  the  palace  is  very  handsome. 

46  m.  Bajkot  sta.,3^  a  civil  and 
military  station,  the  residence  of  the 
Political  Agent,  and  the  headquarters 
of  the  administration. 

The  most  important  public  work  in 
Rajkot  is  the  Kaisar-i-Hind  Bridge 
over  the  Aji  river,  built  by  Mr.  S.  R. 
Booth,  whose  name  is  connected  wiA 
nearly  every  important  modem  boil<l- 
ing  in  the  Province.  The  total  co* 
of  the  bridge  was  117,500  rs.,  of  whiA 
1  Ghumli  is  fllustrated  in  Burgeas's  5«  "* 
Arehceol.  JUp.       ^^  ' 


'dby 


Googk 


BOtJTB  8.      &BWARI  TO  FBROZEPUR 


165 


the  Oliief  of  Bhaunagar  paid  all  but 
7500  rs.  The  munificent  donor  of  this 
bridge  was  educated  at  the  Rajkumar 
College,  on  which  he  bestowed  100,000 
rs.  to  build  a  wing  and  a  residence 
for  the  principal,  and  further  contri- 
buted 50,000  rs.  to  the  Endowment 
Fund. 

The  Hajkumar  College  deserves  a 
visit,  as  the  place  where  the  young 
princes  of  Kattywar  are  educated.  It 
was  opened  in  1870.  On  the  ground 
floor  is  a  fine  hall,  which  gives  access  to 
the  class-rooms.  Some  good  portraits 
hang  on  the  walls.  Along  both  fronts 
is  a  massive  verandah,  and  over  the  E. 
entrance  a  rectangular  tower  55  ft. 
bigh.  The  entrance  is  on  the  W.,  and 
is  flanked  by  two  circular  towers.  The 
N.  and  S.  wings  contain  32  suites  of 
bedrooms  and  sitting-rooms,  bath- 
rooms and  lavatories.  To  the  W.  of 
the  J^.  wing  is  a  chemical  laboratory, 
and  on  the  opposite  side  a  ^/mnasium 
and  racquet-court.  N.  of  the  labora- 
tory are  extensive  stables.  The  young 
princes,  besides  playing  all  manly 
gwnes,  are  drilled  as  a  troop  of  cavalry. 
W.  of  the  quadrangle  are  the  houses  of 
the  Principal  and  vice-principal,  with 
extensive  gardens.  S.  of  the  buildings 
is  the  cricket-field  of  19  acres.  The 
college  was  founded  by  Col.  Keatinge. 

The  High  School  was  opened  in  Janu- 
ary 1875.  It  cost  70,000  rs.,  which  were 
given  by  the  Nawab  of  Junagadh.  In 
the  centre  is  a  fine  hall. 

N.E.  of  Rajkot  are  the  Jubilee  Water 
WctIcs^  which  are  for  the  supply  of  the 
town. 

A  branch  line  runs  to  (54  m.)  Nawa- 
^iogar  or  Jamnagar,  capital  of  the 
state  of  that  name,  whence  Maridvi 
can  be  reached  by  native  craft. 
Small  steamers  occasionallyply  between 
Beoi,  near  Nawanagar,  and  Bombay. 
The  best  way  to  reach  Mandvi  would 
be  by  steamer  direct  from  Bombay. 
Steamers  call  about  twice  a  week. 

From  Bajkot  the  Morvi  State  Bail- 
ww  (a  narrow-gauge  (25)  line)  runs 
'BX  to  Wadhwan,  via  VaaJcaner  junc. 
rta.  (25  m.)  This  is  the  capital  of  a 
email  state  and  the  residence  of  the 
chiel  The  country  around  is  undulat- 
ing, rising  into  hills  W.  and  S.  of  the 


town.  From  Vankaner  the  line  runs  E. 
to  (51  m.)  Wadhwan,  and  (91  m.)  Vir- 
amgam  (see  p.  162).  From  this  point 
a  line  runs  to  Mehsana  (see  p.  118)  for 
Ajmere,  Delhi»  etc. 


ROUTE  8 

ReWAKI  to  FBKOZBPrE 

Rewari  junc.  sta.  is  52  m.  S.W.  of 
Delhi,  described  in  Rte.  6.  (p.  131). 

52  m.  Bhewani  sta.,  with  86,000 
people,  chiefly  Hindus. 

74  m.  Hansi  sta.,  D.B.,  a  modem  town 
of  14,000  inhabitents,  lies  on  the  W. 
Jumna  Canal.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  Anangpal  Tuar,  Kinc  of 
Delhi,  and  was  long  the  capitw  of 
Hariana.  There  are  ruins  of  an  ancient 
Citadel  and  some  remains  of  gateways, 
and  a  high  brick  wall,  with  bastions 
and  loop-holes.  This  old  town  has  no 
connection  with  the  new,  which,  like 
many  others  in  this  district,  owes  its 
origin  to  the  establishment  of  a  secure 
British  rule,  and  the  opening  up  of 
the  country  by  railways.  The  canal 
which  flows  by  it  is  fringed  with  hand- 
some trees.  In  1788  it  was  desolated 
by  famine,  but  in  1795  the  famous 
sailor  adventurer  George  Thomas  fixed 
his  headquarters  at  Hansi,  which 
forthwith  began  to  revive.  Col. 
Skinner,  C.B.,  settled  here  in  1829, 
In  1802  British  rule  was  established, 
and  a  cantonment  was  fixed  here  in 
which  a  considerable  force,  chiefly 
of  local  levies,  was  stationed.  In 
1857  these  troops  mutinied,  murdered 
all  the  Europeans  they  could  lay  hands 
upon,  and  plundered  the  country 
When  peace  was  restored  the  canton- 
ment was  abandoned.  At  Tosham, 
23  m.  S.W.,  are  some  ancient  inscrip- 
tions. They  are  cut  in  the  rock  half 
the  way  up,  as  is  a  tank  which  is 
much  visited  by  pilgrims,  who  come 

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166 


ROUTE  8.       REWA.RI  TO  FBROZEPUR 


India 


from  great  distances  to  the  yearly  fair 
there. 

89  m.  Hissar  sta,  (R.),  D.B.  Pop. 
16,000.  The  IV.  Jumna  Canal  maidehy 
the  Emperor  Feroz  Shah  crosses  from  E. 
to  W.  In  1826  it  was  restored  by  the 
British.  In  this  place  as  well  as  in 
Hansi  the  local  levies  revolted  during 
the  Mutiny  of  1867,  and  murdered 
14  Christians,  to  whom  a  monument 
is  erected  beside  the  little  church, 
but  before  Delhi  was  taken,  a  body 
of  Sikh  levies,  aided  by  contingents 
from  Patiala  and  Bickanur,  under 
Greneral  Van  Cortlandt,  utterly  routed 
them. 

As  at  Hansi,  so  here  the  modern 
town  owes  its  present  prosperity  to  a 
settled  rule  and  to  the  introduction  of 
railways.  Like  many  other  colonies,  it 
has  been  formed  at  the  foot  of  an  old 
ruined  town,  which  lies  to  the  S.  of 
it.  It  was  founded  in  1354  a.d.  by 
the  Emperor  Feroz  Shah,  whose  favour- 
ite residence  it  became.  It  is  the 
centre  of  mounds  and  architectural 
remains,  havine  lain  on  the  main 
track  from  Mo(3tan  to  Delhi  in  pre- 
Mussalman  times.  At  Hissar  tnere 
is  a  Government  cattle  -  farm  (Bir), 
managed  by  a  European  superin- 
tendent, and  attached  to  it  is  an  estate 
of  43,287  acres  for  pasturage. 

The  District  of  Hissar  borders  on  the 
Rajputana  Desert,  and  is  itself  little 
better  than  a  waste,  scattered  over  with 
low  bushes.  The  water-supply  is  in- 
adequate, the  average  rainfall  being 
only  16  in.  The  chief  stream  is  the 
Ghuggar^  which,  with  scant  verdure 
alon^  its  banks,  winds  through  the 
district  like  a  green  riband.  The  Hissar 
branch  of  the  "Western  Jumna  Canal 
passes  through  a  part  of  the  district. 

140  m.  Sirsa  sta.  Pop.  16,000. 
The  town  and  fort  are  supposed  to  have 
been  founded  by  one  Raja  Saras,  about 
the  middle  of  the  6th  century.  A 
Muslim  historian  mentions  it  as  Sarsnti. 
A  great  cattle -fair  is  held  here  in 
August  and  September,  at  which  150,000 
head  of  cattle  are  exposed  for  sale. 

.   187    m.    Batinda    iunc.   sta.   (1400 
inhab.)    From  this  place  lines  run  E. 


to  Patiala,  Rajpura,  and  UmbaUa,  and 
W.  to  Bahawalpur,  Hydrabad  and 
Karachi.  There  is  a  very  high  pictur- 
esque fort  seen  well  from  the  railway, 
but  the  modem  town  contains  nothing 
of  special  interest.  It  was  brought  into 
existence  by  the  British  shortly  before 
the  Mutiny. 

213  m.  Kot-Kapora  junc.  sta.  (B.) 
From  here  a  branch  line  of  50  m.  runs 
W.  to  Fazilka  on  the  Sutlej  river. 

241  m.  Ferozepur  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
Pop.  40,000.  There  is  a  fort  and  a 
military  cantonment  2  m.  to  the  S. 
The  place  was  founded  in  the  time  of 
Feroz  Shah,  Emperor  of  Delhi,  1351-87 
A.D.  At  the  time  of  occupation  by  the 
British  it  was  in  a  declining  state,  but 
through  the  exertions  of  Sir  Henry 
Lawrence  and  his  successors  it  has 
increased  to  its  present  importance. 
There  is  a  large  commerce  and  a  cotton- 
press.  The  main  streets  are  wide  and 
well  paved,  while  a  circular  road  which 
girdles  the  wall  is  lined  by  the  gardens 
of  wealthy  residents. 

The  Fortj  which  contains  the  prin- 
cipal arsenal  in  the  Panjab,  was  rebuilt 
in  1858,  and  greatly  strengthened  in 
1887.  The  railway  and  the  trunk  road 
to  Lahore  separate  it  and  the  town 
from  the  Cantonment. 

The  Memorial  Churchy  in  honour  of 
those  who  fell  in  the  Sutlej  campaign 
of  1845-46,  was  destroyed  in  the 
Mutiny,  but  has  since  been  restcH^. 

In  the  cemetery  lie  many  dis- 
tinffuished  soldiers,  amongst  them 
Major  George  Broadfoot,  C.B.,  Gover 
nor-Generals  Agent,  N.W.  Frontier, 
who  fell  at  Ferozeshah  in  1845,  and 
Generals  Sale  and  Dick. 

On  the  16th  of  December  1845  the 
Sikhs  invaded  the  district,  but,  after 
desperate  fighting,  were  repulsed.  Since 
then  peace  has  prevailed,  except  during 
the  Mutiny  of  1867.  In  May  of  that 
year  one  of  the  two  Sepoy  regiments 
stationed  at  Ferozepur  revolted,  and,  in 
spite  of  a  British  regiment  and  some 
English  artillery,  plundered  and  de- 
stroyed the  Cantonment. 

The  three  great  battlefields  of  the  First 
Sikh  War  can  best  be  visited  from 
this  point.  Ferozeshah,  where  the  battk 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROtJTB  9.      JEtPORE  TO  AGRA 


167 


Wis  fought  on  2l8t  and  22d  December 
1845,  is  distant  13  m.  in  a  S.E.  direction, 
and  Moodki  is  10  m.  beyond  it  in  a 
straight  line.  The  fight  at  the  latter 
place  was  on  the  18th  December  1846. 
Sobraon  was  the  scene  of  a  great  battle 
on  lOth  February  1846.  It  is  24  m. 
'distant  from  Ferozepur  in  an  N.E. 
direction.^ 

64  m.  from  Ferozepur  Lahore  sta. 
(seep.  199.) 


ROUTE  9 

Jeypore  to  Agra 

From  Jeypore  to  Bandikni  junc. 
sta.  (R.),  56  m.  (see  p.  130). 

116  m.  Bhurtpur  or  Bharatpur  sta., 
D.B.jtheresidenoe  of  the  Maharajachief 
of  the  Jat  state  (67,000  inhab.)  The 
mlmg  family  is  descended  from  a  Jat 
Zsmindar  named  Churaman,  who  har- 
aaaedtherear  of  Auranezib's  army  during 
his  expedition  to  the  Deccan.  He  was 
sncceeded  by  his  brother  and  after  him 
by  his  nephew,  Suraj  Mall,  who  fixed 
Ms  cajatal  at  Bhurtpur,  and  subse- 
quently (1760)  drove  out  the  Maratha 
gOTemor  from  Agra,  and  made  it  his 
own  residence. 

In  1765  the  Jats  were  repulsed  before 
Delhi  and  driven  out  of  Agra. 

In  1782  Sindia  seized  Bhurtpur 
aad  the  territory ;  however,  he  restored 
U  districts  to  them,  and  when  he  got 
ioto  difficulties  at  Lalkot  he  made  an 
alliance  with  the  Jat  chief  Ranjit  Sin- 
dia; jmd  the  Jats  were  defeated  by 
Ghnlam  Kadir  at  Fatehpur-Sikri,  and 
wwe  driven  back  on  Bhurtpur,  but 
being  reinforced  at  the  end  of  the  same 
year,  in  1788,  they  raised  the  blockade 
of  Agra,  and  Sindia  recovered  it.  In 
1803  the  British  Government  made  a 

^  Bee  Tke  Sikhs  and  the  Sikh,   Wan  by 
'  Gougfa,  V.C.,  and  A.  D.  Innes. 


treaty  with  Ranjit,  who  joined  General 
Lake  at  Agra  with  6000  horse,  and  re- 
ceived territory  in  return.  But  Ranjit 
intrigued  with  Jaswant  Rao  Holkar. 
Then  followed  the  siege  of  Bhurtpur 
by  Lake,  who  was  repmsed  with  a  loss 
of  3000  men.  Ranjit  then  made  over- 
tures for  peace,  which  were  accepted  on 
the  4th  of  May  1806.  Troubles  a^in 
breaking  out  regarding  the  succession, 
Bhui-tpur  was  again  besieged,  and  on 
the  18th  of  January  1826,  after  a  siege 
of  six  weeks,  the  place  was  stormed  by 
Gen.  Lord  Combermere.  The  loss  of 
the  besieged  was  estimated  at  6000  men 
killed  and  wounded.  The  British  had 
103  killed,  and  477  wounded  and 
missing. 

The  Walled  City  of  Bhurtpur  is  an 
irregular  oblong,  lying  N.E.  and  S.W. 
The  Inner  Fort  is  contained  in  the  N.  £. 
half  of  the  outer  fort.  Three  palaces 
run  right  across  the  centre  of  the  inner 
fort  from  K  to  W.,  that  to  the  K  being 
the  Raja's  Palace.  Next  is  an  old 
palace  built  by  Badan  Sing.  To  the 
W.  is  a  palace  which  is  generally  styled 
the  Eamara  ;  it  ia  furnished  in  a  semi- 
European  style. 

There  are  only  two  gates  to  the  inner 
fort,  the  Chau  Burj  Gate  on  the  S.,  and 
the  Asaldati  on  the  N.  The  bastion 
at  the  N.  W.  comer  of  the  inner  fort  is 
called  the  Joioahar  Burj^  and  is  worth 
ascending  for  the  view.  N.  of  the 
Kamara  ralace  is  the  Court  of  Justice, 
the  Jewel  Office,  and  the  Jail.  On  the 
road  between  the  Chau  Burj  Gate  of 
the  inner  fort  and  the  Anah  Gate  of 
the  outer  fort  are  the  Ganga  ki  Mandir, 
a  market-place,  the  new  mosque,  and 
the  Lakhsnmanji  temple. 

133  m.  Achnera  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
This  is  the  junction  of  a  line  of  railway 
passing  through  Muttra  to  Bindraban 
and  to  Hathras  on  the  East  Indian  Rail- 
way. Also  to  Farakhabad,  Fatehgarh, 
and  Cawnpore.  As,  however,  the 
journey  from  Agra  to  Cawnpore  can  be 
made  more  conveniently  by  the  East 
Indian  Railway,  this  route  will  not  be 
described  in  detail.  (For  Muttra,  Bin- 
draban, and  Dig  see  Rte.  10.)  Fateh- 
pur-Sikri (see  below)  is  10  m.  S.W. 
from  Achnera  by  a  direct  track,  and 

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168 


ROUTB  9.      JETPORE  TO  AGRA 


nearly  13  m.  via  Kiraoli  and  the  Agra 
road. 

149  m.  AGBA  Fort  Bta.3«c  (R.), 
D.B.  where  travellers  alight  for  the 
hotels.  It  is  W.  of  the  Fort,  lust 
outside  the  Delhi  Grate,  and  is  usea  by 
all  the  lines  running  into  Agra.  The 
cantonment  sta.,  junc  of  the  Indian 
Midland  Rly.  to  Gwalior  and  Jhansi,  is 
2  m.  S.  of  the  Fort  sta.  About  1  m.  up 
the  river  is  the  Pontoon  Bridge  which 
leads  from  the  city  to  the  old  East 
Indian  Railway  station,  now  used  for 
goods  only. 

This  is  the  second  city  in  size  and 
importance  of  the  N.W.  Provinces, 
and  has  a  pop.  of  165,000.  It  is  841 
m.  distant  from  Calcutta  by  rail,  and 
139  m.  from  Delhi.  It  stands  on  the 
W.  or  right  bank  of  the  Jumna,  here 
crossed  by  a  Railway  Bridge  of  1 6  spans. 


Itinerary. 

Though  a  week  might  veiy  pleasantly 
be  spent  in  visiting  the  sights  in  and 
around  Agra,  they  can  be  seen  in 
shorter  time,  and  for  those  persons  who 
have  not  many  days  at  their  disposal 
the  following  Itinerary  may  be  of  ser- 
vice : — 

Ist  Day,  Morning. — Fort  and  Palace. 
Afternoon. — Drive  to  the  Jumma  Mus- 
jid  and  on  to  the  T^j. 

2d  Day,  Morning. — Drive  to  Sikan- 
darah.  AfUmoom.  —  To  Itimadud- 
daulah,  and  Chini  ka  Roza* 

Most  people  will  like  to  visit  some  of 
the  places  more  than  once.  A  full  day,  or 
better  still,  24  hours  should  be  devoted 
to  the  excursion  to  Fatehpur-Sikri. 

The  old  Native  City  covered  about 
11  sq.  m.,  half  of  which  area  is  still 
inhabited.  It  is  clean  and  has  a  good 
bazaar.  The  chief  Articles  of  Native 
Manufacture  are  gold  and  silver  em- 
broidery, carving  in  soapstone,  and 
imitation  of  the  old  inlay  work  {mdra 
dwra)  on  white  marble. 


ftT« 


1 

The  Cantonment  and  Civil  Static!,^ 
lie  to  the  S.  and  S.  W.  of  the  Fort,  anf- 
E.  of  them  on  the  river  bank  is  tl^ 
famous  Tig.  ^-5 


History. — Nothing  certain  is  know 
of  Agra  before  the  Monammedan  periol 
The  house  of  Lodi  was  the  first  Me 
hammedan  dynasty  which  chose  ^g£ 
for   an   occasional    residence.     Befon[ 
their  time  Agra  was  a  district  of  Bianiu^ 
Sikandar  bin  Bahlol  Lodi  died  at  Agm' 
in  1515  A.D.,  but  was  buiied  at  DemlL 
Sikandar   Lodi    built    the    Barahduir 
Palace,  near  Sikandarah,  which  subniik 
received  its  name  from  him.     The  Lodi 
Khan  ka  Tila,  or  Lodi's  Mound,  is  noif 
built  over  with  modem  houses ;  it  is  said 
to  be  the  site  of  the  palace  of  the  Lodis, 
called  Badalgarh.    Babar  is  said  to  ha' 
had  a  garden-palace  on  the  E.  bank 
the  Jumna,  nearly  opposite  the'Taj,  and 
there  is  a  mosque  near  the  spot,  with  -^ 
inscription  which  shows  that  it  i 
built  by  Babar's  son  Humayun,  in  1580 

A.D. 

On  the  Agra  side  of  the  river,  netr 
the  Barracks,  there  are  the  remains  of 
an  ancient  garden.  Mr.  Carlleyle  thinki 
it  was  the  place  where  Akbar  encamped 
when  he  first  came  to  Agra.  In  it  ii 
the  shrine  of  Kamal  Khan,  40  ft.  loo^ 
and  rectangular.  It  has  red  sandstone 
pillars  with  square  shafts  and  flinds 
bracket  capitals.  Broad  eaves  project 
from  above  the  entablatures,  and  are 
supported  by  beautiful  open-work 
brackets  of  a  thoroughly  Hindu  char- 
acter. The  great  w^  is  at  the  btck 
of  Kamal  Ehan's  shrine ;  it  is  220  ft 
in  circumference,  with  a  16-sided  ex- 
terior, each  side  measuring  13  ft  9  in.: 
at  it  52  people  could  draw  water  at  once. 
From  such  works  it  appears  that  Am 
was  the  seat  of  government  under 
Babar  and  Humayun,  though  after 
Humayun's  restoration  he  resided 
frequently  at  Delhi,  and  died  and  was 
buned  there.  Agra  town  was  probably 
then  on  the  bank  of  the  Jumna.  Akbar 
removed  from  Fatehpur-Sikri  to  kffi 
about  1568.  The  only  buildings  that 
can  now  be  attributed  to  Akbi^  him* 
self  are  the  walls,  the  Magazine  to 
the  S.  of  the  Water  Gate,  on» 
Akbar's  audience  -  hall,  and  tlie  iw 


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BOUTB  9.      AGRA 


169 


|Mlace  in  the  fort  He  died  at  Agra 
m  1605.  Jehangir  left  Agra  in  1618, 
and  neyer  returned.  Sh&ii  Jehan  re- 
sided at  Agra  from  1632  to  1637,  and 
built  the  Fort  and  Palace  and  the 
I  Taj.  He  was  deposed  by  his  son  Aurang- 
zeb  in  1658,  but  lived  as  a  State  prisoner 
seven  years  longer  at  Agra.  Aurang- 
zeb  removed  the  seat  of  government 
permanently  to  Delhi.  In  1764  Agra  was 
taken  by  Suraj  Mall,  of  Bhurtpur  and 
Sumroo,  with  an  army  of  Jats,  who  did 
much  damage  to  the  town.  In  1 7 70  the 
Marathas  captured  it,  and  were  expelled 
byNiyaf  Khaninl774.  In  1784  Mu- 
hammad Beg  was  Governor  of  Agra, 
and  was  besieged  by  Mahadaji  Sindia, 
who  took  it  in  1784,  and.the  Marathas 
held  it  till  it  was  tiQcen  by  Lord  Lake, 
17th  October  1803.  Since  then  it  has 
been  a  British  possession.  From  1835- 
1358  the  seat  of  government  of  the 
N.W.  Provinces  was  removed  to  Agra 
from  Allahabad. 

On  the  30th  May  1857  two  companies 
of  the  40th  and  67  th  N.I.,  who  had 
been  sent  to  Muttra  to  bring  the 
treasure  there  into  A^a,  mutinied  and 
marched  off  to  Delhi.  Next  morning 
their  comrades  were  ordered  to  pile 
amis,  which  they  did,  and  most  of 
them  went  to  their  homea  On  the  4th 
the  Kotah  contingent  mutinied,  and 
went  off  to  join  the  Neemuch  mutineers, 
consisting  of  a  strong  brigade  of  all 
arms.  Their  camp  was  2  m.  from  the 
Am  cantonment,  at  Suchata.  On 
5uL  July,  Brigadier  Polwhele  moved 
oat  with  816  men  to  attack  them. 
The  battle  began  with  artillery,  but 
the  enemy  were  so  well  posted,  sheltered 
by  low  trees  and  wails  and  natural 
earthworks,  that  the  British  fired  into 
them  with  little  damage.  At  4  p.m. 
the  British  ammunition  was  expended ; 
then  Col.  Riddell  advanced  with  the 
English  soldiers,  and  captured  the 
village  of  Shahganj,  but  with  such 
heavy  loss  that  they  were  unable  to 
hold  their  ground,  and  were  obliged 
to  retreat  into  the  Fort  of  Agra.  The 
rebels  burnt  the  cantonments,  murdered 
all  Europeans  who  were  found  out- 
side the  Forty  and  then  marched  to 
Delhi. 

There  were  now  6000  men,  women, 


and  children,  of  whom  only  1500 
were  Hindus  and  Mohammedans,  shut 
up  in  the  Fort.  Among  these  were 
nuns  from  the  banks  of  the  Garonne 
and  the  Loire,  priests  from  Sicily  and 
Rome,  missionaries  from  Ohio  and 
Basle,  mixed  with  rope-dancers  from 
Paris  and  pedlars  from  America. 
The  fort  was  put  in  a  thorough  state 
of  defence.  Soon  after  Brigadier  Pol- 
whele was  superseded,  and  CoL  Cotton 
took  his  place.  On  the  20th  of  August 
he  sent  out  his  Brig. -Major  Mont- 
gomery with  a  small  column,  and  on 
the  24th  Montgomery  defeated  the 
rebels  at  Aligarh,  and  took  the  place. 
On  the  9th  September  Mr.  Colvin, 
Lieut. -Governor  of  N.W.  Provinces, 
died.  When  Delhi  was  captured  by 
the  British  in  September,  the  fugitive 
rebels,  together  with  those  of  Central 
India,  advanced,  on  6th  October,  against 
Agra.  MeantimeCoL  Greathed's colunm 
from  Delhi  entered  the  city  without 
their  knowledge,  and  when  they,  un- 
suspicious of  nis  presence,  attacked 
the  place,  they  were  completely  routed 
and  dispersed.  Agra  was  thus  relieved 
from  all  danger. 

The  Taj  Mahal  should  be  seen  more 
than  once.  The  best  time  for  a  iirst 
visit  is  late  in  the  afternoon.  A  good 
road  leads  to  it,  made  in  the  famine 
of  1838.  It  stands  on  the  brink  of 
the  Jumna,  a  little  more  than  1  m. 
K  of  the  Fort.  The  building  is  pro- 
perly named  Taj  bibi  ke  Roza,  or 
•*The  Crown  Lady's  Tomb."  The 
Taj  with  its  surroundings  is  a  spot  of 
unequalled  beauty.  The  heroic  size, 
the  wonderful  contrast  of  colours  in  the 
materials  employed,  the  setting  of  noble 
trees,  sweet  shrubs,  and  clear  water, 
form  a  combination  that  we  seek  in 
vain  elsewhere.  This  mausoleum  was 
commenced  in  1040  A.H.,  or  1630  A.D., 
by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan,  as  a  tomb 
for  his  favourite  queen,  Aijmand  Banu, 
entitled  Mumtaz  Mahal,  lit.  the 
**  Chosen  of  the  Palace,"  or  more  freely, 
"Pride  of  the  Palace."  She  was  the 
daughter  of  Asaf  Khan,  brother  of 
Nurjehan,  the  famous  empress-wife  of 
Jehangir.  Their  father  was  Mirza 
Ghiyas,   a   Persian,    who   came  from 

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170 


ROUTE  9.      JEtPORE  TO  AGRA 


India 


Teheran  to  seek  his  fortune  in  India, 
and  rose  to  power  under  the  title  of 
Itimadu  'd-daulah.  His  tomb  is  de- 
scribed below.  Mumtaz  -  i  -  Mahal 
married  Shah  Jehan  in  1616  a.d.,  had 
by  him  seven  children,  and  died  in  child- 
bed of  the  eighth  in  1629,  at  Burhanpur, 
in  the  Deccan.  Her  body  was  brought 
to  Agra,  and  laid  in  the  garden  where 
the  Taj  stands  untU  the  mausoleum 
was  built.  The  Taj  cost,  according  to 
some  accounts,  18,465,186  rs.,  and, 
according  to  other  accounts,  31,748,026 
rs.  It  took  upwards  of  seventeen  years 
to  build,  and  much  of  the  materials  and 
labour  remained  unpaid  for.  According 
to  Shah  Jehan's  own  memoirs,  the 
masons  received  30  lakhs.  There 
were  originally  two  silver  doors  at  the 
entrance,  but  these  were  taken  away 
and  melted  by  Sun^  Mall  and  his  Jats. 
It  is  uncertain  who  was  the  principal 
architect,  but  Austin  de  Bordeaux  was 
then  in  the  Emperor's  service.  He  was 
buried  at  Agra,  and  it  is  probable  that 
he  took  part  in  the  decoration,  and 
especially  in  the  inlaid  work,  of  the 
mausoleum. 

The  approach  to  the  Tig  is  by  the 
Taj  Gfanj  GcUe,  which  opens  into  an 
outer  court  880  ft  long  and  440  ft. 
wide,  in  which  (1. )  is  the  Great  Gate- 
way of  the  garden -court,  which  Mr. 
Fergusson  calls  "a  worthy  pendant  to 
the  Taj  itself."  It  is  indeed  a  superb 
gateway,  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid  with 
ornaments  and  inscriptions  from  the 
Koran,  in  white  marble,  and  surmounted 
by  26  white  marble  cupolas.  Before 
passing  under  the  ^teway,  observe  the 
noble  caravanserai  outside,  and  an 
equally  fine  building  on  the  other  side. 
Bayard  Taylor  says :  **  Whatever  may 
be  the  visitor's  impatience,  he  cannot 
help  pausing  to  notice  the  fine  propor- 
tions of  these  structures,  and  the  rich 
and  massive  style  of  their  construction." 
They  aie  not  only  beautiful,  but  they 
increase  the  glories  of  the  mausoleum 
itself,  by  the  contrast  of  their  somewhat 
stem  red  sandstone  with  the  soft  and 
pearl-like  white  marble  of  which  it  is 
built 

Having  passed  the  gatewav,  the 
visitor  finds  himself  in  a  beautiful  gar- 
den.    In  the  centre  is  a  channel  of 


water,  which  runs  the  whole  length  of 
the  garden,  and  has  23  fountains  in  its 
course.  The  beds  of  the  garden  are 
filled  with  the  choicest  shrubs  and 
cypress  trees,  equal  in  size  and  beauty 
to  those  of  Mazandamn.  It  is  now 
that  the  mausoleum  presents  itself  to 
the  gaze  in  all  its  glory.  It  stands  in 
the  centre  of  a  platform,  faced  witii 
white  marble,  exactly  313  ft  sq.  and 
18  ft.  high,  with  a  white  minaret  at 
each  comer  133  ft  high.  It  is  asq. 
of  186  ft  with  the  comers  cut  off 
to  the  extent  of  3^  ft  The  principal 
dome  is  58  ft.  in  diameter,  and  80  ft. 
in  height 

The  Tai  was  repaired  before  the  Prince 
of  Wales  s  vi^t.  The  dome  is  brick 
veneered  with  marble,  and  all  the  slabs 
with  which  it  is  faced  were  examined, 
and  repointed  where  necessary.  The 
marble  was  damaged  chiefly  by  the 
swelling  of  the  iron  clamps  during 
oxidation. 

In  every  angle  of  the  mausoleum  is 
a  small  domic^  apartment,  two  stories 
high,  and  these  are  connected  by 
various  passages  and  halls.  Under  the 
centre  of  the  dome,  enclosed  by  *'a 
trellis-work  screen  of  white  marble, 
a  <^f  (Toeuvre  of  elegance  in  Indian 
art,"  are  the  tombs  of  Mumtaz -i-Mahal 
and  Shah  Jehan.  "These,  however, 
as  is  usual  in  Indian  sepulchres,  are 
not  the  trae  tombs— the  bodies  rest  in 
a  vault,  level  with  the  surface  of  the 
ground  beneath  plainer  tombstones 
placed  exactly  beneath  those  in  t^e 
hall  above."  In  the  apartment  above, 
where  the  show  tombs  are,  "  the  light," 
says  Mr.  Fergusson,  "is  admitted  only 
through  double  screens  of  white  marble 
trellis-work  of  the  most  exquisite  de- 
sign, one  on  the  outer  and  one  on  the 
inner  face  of  the  walls.  In  our  climate 
this  would  produce  nearly  complete 
darkness ;  but  in  India,  and  in  a  build- 
ing wholly  composed  of  white  marble, 
this  was  re(juired  to  temper  the  glare 
that  otherwise  would  have  been  intoler- 
abla.  As  it  is,  no  words  can  express 
the  chastened  beauty  of  that  central 
chamber,  seen  in  the  soft  gloom  of  the 
subdued  light  that  reaches  it  through 
the  distant  and  half- closed  openings 
that  surround  it     When  used  as  a 


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Section  and  Flan  of  the  Taj  Mahal. 


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1.  Northern  Tower. 

2.  Descent  to  Water  Gate. 

3.  NaginahMu^id  and  ladies'priTate  Bazaar. 

4.  Small  Oonrta  and  ruins  of  Baths. 

6.  Open  Terrace  with  Diwan-i-Ehas  on  S.slde. 

6.  Recess    where    the    Emperor's    Throne 

stood. 

7.  Diwan-i-'Am  (Hall  of  Public  Audience). 

8.  Machchi  Bhawan. 

9.  Mr  Golvin's  Qrave. 

10.  The  Marble  Baths  of  the  Princesses. 

11.  The  Anguri  Bagb  (Grape  Gao^en). 


12.  Saman  Buij  (Jasmine  Tower)    (at  }j 

angle  is  an  outlet  by  secret  pusageli 

13.  Ehas  Mahal. 

14.  Shish  Mahal  (Mirror  Palace). 

15.  Well. 

16.  Palace  of  Jebangir  (or  Akbar). 

17.  Tower.    At  the  base  is  an  entrance  t 

a  secret  passage. 

18.  Incline  firom  Ummer  Sing's  Gate. 

19.  Ruins  of  Palace  of  Akbar. 

20.  Blephant  Gate. 

21.  Court  of  Ummer  Sing's  Gate. 


To  face  V'  ITl. 


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ROUTE  9.      AGRA 


171 


Barahdari,  or  plfeasure-pallsuje,  it  must 
ilvays  have  been  the  coolest  and  the 
loFcfiest  of  garden  retreats,  and  now 
that  it  is  sacred  to  the  dead,  it  is  the 
most  graceful  and  the  most  impressive 
fi!  sepulchres  in  the  world.  This  build- 
ing too  is  an  exquisite  example  of  that 
system  of  inlaying  with  precious  stones 
which  became  the  great  characteristic 
of  the  style  of  the  Moguls  after  the 
death  of  Akbar.  All  the  spandrils  of 
the  Taj,  all  the  angles  and  more  im- 
portant details,  are  heightened  by  being 
inlaid  with  precious  stones.  These  are 
combined  in  wreaths,  scrolls,  and  frets 
as  exquisite  in  design  as  beautiful  in 
colour.  They  form  the  most  beautiful 
and  precious  style  of  ornament  ever 
adopted  in  architecture.  Though  of 
course  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
beauty  of  Greek  ornament,  it  certainly 
stands  first  among  the  purely  decorative 
forms  of  architectural  design.  This 
mode  of  ornamentation  is  lavishly  be- 
stowed on  the  tombs  themselves  and 
the  screen  that  surrounds  them. 
The  judgment  with  which  this  style 
of  ornament  is  apportioned  to  the 
various  parts  is  almost  as  remarkable 
as  the  ornament  itself,  and  conveys  a 
Wgh  idea  of  the  taste  and  skill  of  the 
hidian  architects  of  the  age"  (see 
HisLo/Arch.) 

The  delicately  sculptured  ornamenta- 
tion, in  low  relief,  to  be  found  in  all 
prts  of  the  building,  is  in  its  way  as 
Wtiful  as  the  pietra  dura  work 
itself. 

.  There  are  two  wings  to  the  mauso- 
leum, one  of  which  is  a  mosque.  Any- 
where else  they  would  be  considered 
important  buildings.  There  are  three 
inscriptions:  1046  a.h.  =1636  A.D., 
1048  A.H,=1638  A.D.,  and  1057  a.h. 
= 1647  A.D.  Mr.  Keene,  who  has  given 
an  excellent  account  of  the  Taj,  thinks 
that  "  the  inscriptions  show  the  order 
in  which  the  various  parts  of  the  build- 
ing were  completed.  Such  then  is 
this  "poem  in  marble,"  whose  beauty 
has  been  faintly  shadowed  out.  It 
should  be  seen  if  possible  by  moon- 
light, as  well  as  by  day.  The  S.  face, 
which  looks  upon  the  garden,  is  per- 
haps the  most  beautiful,  but  the  N. 
front  which  rises  above  the  Jumna, 


derives  an  additional  charm  from  the 
broad  waters  which  roll  past  it. 

The  Fort.  —  Most  of  the  magnifi- 
cent Mogul  buildings  which  render 
Agra  so  interesting  in  the  eye  of  the 
traveller  are  situated  within  the  Fort. 
They  justify  the  remark  of  Bishop  Heber 
that  "  the  Moguls  designed  like  Titans 
and  finished  like  jewellers."  The  Fort 
stands  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Jumna. 
The  walls  and  flanking  defences  are  of 
red  sandstone,  and  have  an  imposing 
appearance,  being  nearly  70  ft.  high. 
The  ditch  is  30  ft.  wide  and  35  ft.  deep. 
The  water  gate  on  the  E.  is  closed,  but 
there  are  still  2  entrances — the  Ummer 
Sing  gate  on  the  S.,  the  Delhi  Gate 
on  the  W.  Within  it,  and  approached 
by  a  somewhat  steep  slope,  is  another 
gateway  called  the  Hathiya  Darwazah 
"Elephant  Gate,"  or  Inner  Delhi  Gate. 
There  used  to  be  two  stone  elephants 
here  with  figures  of  Patta  and  Jaimall, 
two  famous  Rajput  champions ;  they 
were  removed,  but  the  marks  where  their 
feet  were  fixed  may  still  be  traced  on 
the  platforms  on  either  side  of  the  arch- 
way. There  are  here  two  octagonal 
towers  of  red  sandstone,  relieved  with 
designs  in  white  plaster:  the  passage 
between  these  is  covered  by  a  dome. 
Following  the  road,  the  traveller  will 
then  pass  the  Mini  Bazaar,  now  barrack 
premises,  and  reach 

The  Moti  Musjid,  the  "Pearl 
Mosque,"  Fergusson  describes  as  "one 
of  the  purest  and  most  elegant  build- 
ings of  its  class  to  be  found  any- 
where." It  was  commenced  1056  A.  H. 
=  1648  A.D.,  and  finished  1063  a.h.= 
1655  A.D.,  and  is  said  to  have  cost 
300,000  rs.  It  was  built  by  Shah 
Jehan  on  ground  sloping  from  W.  to  E. 
The  exterior  is  faced  with  slabs  of  red 
sandstone,  but  within  with  marble — 
white,  blue,  and  gi*ay  veined.  The 
entrance  gateway  of  red  sandstone, 
which  is  very  fine,  makes  a  trihedral 
projection  from  the  centre  of  the  E. 
face  of  the  mosque,  and  is  approached 
by  a  double  staircase.  **  The  moment 
you  enter,  the  effect  of  its  courtyard  is 
surpassingly  beautiful." 

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ROUTE  9,      JEYl'ORB  TO  AGRA 


India 


In  the  centre  there  is  a  marble  tank, 
37  ft.  7  in.  sq.,  for  ablutions,  and  be- 
tween it  and  the  S.E.  inner  comer  of 
the  mosque  there  is  an  ancient  sun- 


Moti  Musjid. 

dial,  consisting  of  an  octagonal  marble 
pillar  4  ft.  high,  with  no  gnomon,  but 
simply  two  crossed  lines  and  an  arc.  A 
marole  cloister  runs  round  the  E.,  N., 
and  S.  sides  of  the  court,  interrupted 
by  archways,  of  which  those  in  the  N. 
and  S.  sides  are  closed.  The  mosque 
proper  consists  of  3  aisles  of  7  bays 
opening  on  to  the  courtyard,  and  is 
surmounted  by  3  domes.  On  the  en- 
tablature over  the  front  row  of  support- 
ing pillars,  i.e.  on  the  E.  face,  there  is 
an  inscription  running  the  whole  lentfth, 
the  letters  being  of  black  marble  inlaid 
into  the  white.  The  inscription  says 
that  the  mosque  may  be  likened  to  a 
precious  pearl,  for  no  other  mosque  is 
lined  throughout  with  marble  like  this. 
Narrow  flights  of  steps  lead  to  the  top 
of  the  gateway  and  to  the  roof  of  the 
mosque,  from  which  there  is  a  fine  view. 
During  the  Mutiny  this  mosque  was 
used  as  an  hospital. 

Turning  rt.  from  the  Moti  Mosque, 
the  grand  Armoury  Square,  the  Place  du 


Carrousel  of  Agra,  with  the  Diwan-i- 
*Am  on  the  left,  is  entered.  There  are 
ranges  of  cannons  here  and  large 
mortars,  and  amongst  them  the  tomb 
of  Mr.  Colvin.  Here  is  also  the  ffavz 
of  Jehangir,  an  enormous  monolithic 
cistei-n  of  light -coloured  porphyry  or 
close-grained  granite ;  externally  it  is 
nearly  5  ft.  high,  and  internally  4  ft. 
deep.  It  is  8  ft.  in  diameter  at  top. 
It  originally  stood  in  Jehangir's  palace. 
Some  have  thought  the  Diwan-i-'Am 
was  built  bv  Akbar,  others  by;  Jehangir, 
but  accordmg  to  Carlleyle  it  was  built 
by  Shah  Jehan,  and  was  his  public  Hall 
of  Audience.  This  building  is  201  ft. 
long  from  N.  to  S. ,  and  consists  of  8 
aisles  of  9  bays  open  on  3  sides.  The 
roof  is  supported  by  graceful  columns 
of  red  sandstone,  painted  white  and 
gold  on  the  occasion  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales's  visit.  Along  its  back  wall  are 
grilles,  through  which  fair  faces  could 
watch  what  was  going  forward  in  the 
hall  below,  and  in  its  centre  is  a  raised 
alcove  of  white  marble  richly  decorated 
with  pietra  dura  work  and  low  reliefs, 
which  bear  evident  traces  of  Italian 
design.  Here  travellers  describe  Au- 
rangzib  sitting  to  watch  the  administra- 
tion of  justice  in  the  hall  below. 

Ascend  now  some  stairs  at  the  back 
of  the  place  where  the  Emperor  sat  in 
the  Diwan-i-*Am,  and  pass  through  a 
doorway  into  Shah  Jehan's  palace. 
Here  is  the  Machchi  Bhawan,  or  "  Fish 
Sauare,"  formerly  a  tank.  In  the  N. 
side  are  two  bronze  gates  taken  by 
Akbar  from  the  palace  at  Chitor.  At 
the  N.W:  corner  is  a  beautiful  little 
three-domed  mosque  of  white  marble, 
called  the  Naginah  MuBJid,  or  "Gem 
Mosque."  It  was  the  private  mosque 
of  the  royal  ladies  of  the  court,  and  was 
built  by  Shah  Jehan,  who  was  after- 
wards imprisoned  there  by  his  successor 
Aurangzib.  Beneath,  in  a  small  court- 
yard, was  a  bazaar  where  the  merchants 
used  to  display  their  goods  to  the  ladies 
of  the  court.  A  two-storied  cloister 
runs  all  round  the  Machchi  Bhawan, 
except  on  the  side  which  fronts  the 
Jumna,  where  the  upper  story  gives 
place  to  an  open  terrace,  with  a  black 
throne,  on  the  side  nearest  the  river» 
and  a  white  seat  opposite,  where  it  ii 

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!  said  the  Court  Jester  sat.  The  black 
throne  has  a  long  fissure,  which  is  said 

I  to  have  appeared  when  the  throne  was 
usurped  by  the  Jat  chief  of  Bhurtpur. 
There  is  a  reddish  stain  in  one  spot, 
which  shows  a  combination  of  iron,  but 
the  natives  pretend  that  it  is  blood.  An 
inscription  runs  round  the  four  sides, 

I  which  says  in  brief,  when  Salim  became 
heir  to  the  crown  his  name  was  chanced 
to  Jehangir,  and  for  the  light  of  nis 
justice  he  was  called  Nuru-din.  His 
sword  cut  his  enemies'  heads  into  two 

'  halves  like  the  Gremini.  As  long  as 
the  heaven  is  the  throne  for  the  sun, 
may  the  throne  of  Salim  remain.  Date 
1011  A.H.=1603  A.D.  Beneath  this 
terrace  is  a  deep  wide  ditch  where  con- 
tests between  elephants  and  tigers  used 
to  take  place.  Close  by,  near  the  S.  W. 
comer  of  the  terrace,  is  the  Meena 
MoBJid,  or  private  mosque  of  the  em- 
peror. On  the  N.  of  the  terrace  is  the 
site  of  the  hall  of  green  marble  and 
Honmiaiii,  now  in  a  ruinous  condition, 
and  on  the  S. 

The  Diwaa-i-Khas,  or  Hall  of  Private 
Audience.  It  is  a  miracle  of  beauty. 
The  carving  is  exquisite,  and  flowers 
are  inlaid  on  the  white  marble,  with 
red  cornelian,  and  other  valuable  stones. 
From  this  building,  or  from  his  throne 
on  the  terrace,  the  Emperor  looked 
OTer  the  broad  river  to  the  beautiful 
gardens  and  buildings  on  the  opposite 
shore.  The  date  of  this  buildinff  is 
1046  A.H.=1637  A.D.  The  inlaid  or 
pietra  dura  work  has  been  restored.  A 
staircase  leads  from  the  Diwan-i-Ehas 
to  the  Saman  Biuj,  or  Jasmine  Tower, 
there  the  chief  Sultana  lived.  Part  of 
the  marble  pavement  in  front  of  it  is 
made  to  represent  a  Pachisi  board.  The 
lovely  mar  Die  lattice-work  seems  to  have 
been  broken  by  cannon-shot  in  some 
places.  A  beautiful  pavilion,  with  a 
fountain  and  retiring-room,  close  upon 
the  river,  are  the  chief  apartments  here. 

Adjoining  and  facing  the  river  is  the 
Qolden  Pa^on,so  called  from  its  being 
roofed  with  gilded  plates  of  copper.  In 
it  are  bedrooms  for  ladies,  with  noles  in 
Ae  wall,  14  in.  deep,  into  which  they 
iwedto  slip  their  jewels.  These  holes 
we  so  narrow  that  only  a  woman's  arm 


could  draw  them  out.  There  is  a  simi- 
lar building  on  the  S.  side  of  the  Khas 
Mahal  (see  below). 

Near  here  are  remains  of  reservoirs 
and  watercourses,  and  arrangements 
for  the  raising  of  water  from  below. 

The  traveller  will  now  enter  the 
Angari  Bagh  or  ''Grape  Garden,"  a 
fine  square  of  280  ft.  planted  with 
flowers  and  shrubs.  At  the  N.E. 
comer  is  the  Shish  Mahal,  literally 
"  Mirror  Palace."  It  consists  of  two 
dark  chambers  furnished  with  fountains 
and  an  artificial  cascade  arranged  to 
fall  over  lighted  lami)s.  The  walls  and 
ceiling  are  lined  with  innumerable  small 
mirrors  (restored  in  1875).  From  here 
there  is  direct  communication  with  the 
Water  Gate  and  the  Saman  Burj.  At 
the  E.  end  of  the  square  is  a  lovely 
hall,  called  the  Khas  Mahal,  the  gild- 
ing and  colouring  of  which  were  in  part 
restored  in  1875.  In  front  are  small 
tanks  and  fountains.  Proceeding  to 
the  S.,  the  visitor  will  come  to  three 
rooms,  beautifully  decorated  in  fresco, 
which  were  the  private  apartments  of 
Shah  Jehan. 

On  the  rt.  is  an  enclosure  railed  in, 
in  which  stand  the  so-called  Gates  of 
Somnath,  25  ft.  high,  and  finely  carved : 
they  are  of  Deodar  wood,  of  Saracenic 
work.  There  is  a  Kufic  inscription 
running  round  them,  in  which  the  name 
of  Sabuktagin  has  been  read.  They 
were  captured  by  General  Nott  at 
Ghazni  and  brought  here  in  1 842.  The 
room  nearest  the  river  is  an  octagonal 
pavilion,  and  very  beautiful.  In  it 
Shah  Jehan  died,  gazing  upon  the  Taj, 
the  tomb  of  his  favourite  wife. 

Jehangir  Mahal,  a  red  stone  palace 
into  which  the  traveller  now  enters, 
was  built  either  by  Jehangir  or  Akbar. 
It  stands  in  the  S.E.  part  of  the  Fort, 
between  the  palace  of  Shah  Jehan  and 
the  Bangali  bastion.  The  red  sandstone 
of  which  it  is  built  has  not  resisted  the 
destructive  action  of  the  elements.  In 
some  parts  there  are  two  stories ;  the 
lower  story  has  no  windows  looking  to 
the  front,  but  the  upper  has  several. 
The  upper  front  is  ornamented  with 
blue  and  bright  green  tiles  inserted  into 
the  sandstone.     The  masonic  symbol 

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of  the  double  triangle,  inlaid  in  white 
marble,  occurs  in  several  places  on  the 
front  gateway.  The  entrance  gateway 
leading  directly  into  the  palace  is  very 
fine.  The  two  corner  towers  were  sur- 
mounted by  elegant  cupolas,  of  which 
one  only  remains.  Near  here,  on  the 
roof,  may  again  be  seen  arrangements 
for  the  storage  of  water,  with  21  pipes 
for  supplying  the  fountains  below.  The 
entrance  leads  through  a  vestibule  into 
a  beautiful  domed  hall,  18  ft.  sq.,  the 
ceiling  of  which  is  elaborately  carved. 
A  corridor  leads  into  the  grand  central 
court,  which  is  72  ft.  sq.  The  design 
of  this  court,  its  pillars,  the  carving 
and  ornamentation,  are  all  pure  Hindu. 

"On  the  N.  side  of  the  court  is  a 
grand  open  pillared  hall  62  ft.  long 
and  87  ft.  broad.  The  pillars  support 
bracket  capitals,  richly  carved  and 
ornamented  with  pendants.  The  front 
brackets  support  broad  sloping  eaves 
of  thin  stone  slabs.  But  the  stone 
roof  or  ceiling  of  this  pillared  hall  is 
the  most  remarkable  feature  about 
it.  It  is  supported  most  curiously 
by  stone  cross-beams,  which  are  orna- 
mented with  the  quaint  device  of  a 
great  serpent  or  dragon  carved  on  them 
lengthways.  A  covered  passage,  or 
corridor,  runs  round  the  top  of  this 
hall,  from  which  one  can  look  down 
into  it  The  other  pillared  hall  on 
the  opposite  or  S.  side  of  the  grand 
court  is  somewhat  less  in  size." 

Passing  from  the  grand  court,  through 
a  large  chamber  to  the  E.,  the  visitor 
will  find  a  grand  archway  in  the  centre 
of  a  quadrangle  which  faces  the  river. 
It  is  supported  by  two  lofty  pillars  and 
two  half  pillars  of  the  more  slender 
and  graceful  Hindu  kind.  Some  of 
the  diambers  are  lined  with  stucco, 
which  has  been  painted,  and  has 
lasted  better  than  the  stone -work. 
For  minute  and  exquisite  ornamental 
carving  in  stone,  the  great  central 
court  is  pre-eminent.  The  palace  ends 
on  the  side  facing  the  river  with  a 
retaining  wall,  and  two  corner  bastions, 
each  surmounted  by  an  ornamental 
tower  with  a  domed  cupola.  There 
are  many  vaulted  chambers  underneath 
the  palace,  believed  to  have  been  used 
as  places  of  retreat  during  the  summer 


heats.  They  were  thoroughly  explored 
during  1857,  but  as  the  air  is  very 
close,  and  snakes  are  numerous,  they 
are  seldom  visited.  Between  the  palace 
of  Jehangir  and  that  of  Shah  Jehan 
there  is  a  series  of  bathing  tanks  and 
pipes. 

The  Jamma  Musjid  faces  the  Delhi 
gate  of  the  Fort,  and  is  close  to 
the  rly.  sta.  It  stands  upon  a  raised 
platform,  reached  by  flights  of  steps  on 
the  S.  and  E.  sides.  The  mosque 
proper  is  divided  into  5  compartments, 
each  of  which  opens  on  the  courtyard 
by  a  fine  archway.  The  work  has  all 
the  originality  and  vigour  of  the  early 
Mogul  style,  mixed  with  many  re- 
miniscences of  the  Pathan  schooL  The 
inscription  over  the  main  archway  sets 
forth  that  the  mosque  was  constructed 
by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan  in  1644, 
after  five  years'  labour.  It  was  built  in 
the  name  of  his  daughter  Jehanara, 
who  afterwards  devotedly  shared  her 
father's  captivity  when  he  was  deposed 
by  Aurangzib.  The  great  peculiarity 
01  this  Musjid  consists  in  its  three  great 
full-bottomed  domes  without  necks, 
shaped  like  inverted  balloons,  and  built 
of  red  sandstone,  with  zigzag  bands  of 
white  marble  circling  round  them. 
Its  grand  gateway  was  pulled  down  by 
the  British  authorities  during  the 
Mutiny,  as  it  threatened  the  d^ences 
of  the  Fort.        

St.  George's  Church  is  divided  into 
a  nave  with  two  side  aisles.  It  was 
built  in  1826,  partly  by  Government 
and  partly  by  subscription.  The  tower 
and  spire  are  of  more  recent  date.  The 
inlaid  marble  work  for  which  Agra  is 
so  famous  is  well  worth  notice  in  the 
rercdos  and  the  altar. 

St.  Faul's  [Military)  Church  was 
built  by  the  E.  I.  Co.  in  1828.  It 
contains  several  interesting  tablets. 

St.  Paul's  {Civil)  Church,  about  4 
m.  N.  of  St.  George's  Church. 

St.  John's  College  is  the  centre  of 
the  C.M.S.  Mission. 

The  Agra  College. — At  the  end  of 
the  last  cent  Maharaja  Sindia  made 
over  certain  villages  in  the  districts  of 
Muttra  and  Alisarh  to  a  learned  Brah- 
man for  the  twofold  purpose  of  keepbg 


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ROUTE  9.       AGRA 


175 


up  a  Sanscrit  school  and  of  supplying 
the  wants  of  pilgrims  visiting  the 
shrines  around  Muttra.  In  1818  he 
left  his  lands  in  trust  to  the  £.  India 
Ca,  who  devoted  two- thirds  of  the  pro- 
ceeds to  the  establishment  of  this  col- 
lege, and  one -third  to  hospitals  at 
Muttra  and  Aligarh.  The  College, 
opened  1886,  consists  of  a  high  school, 
with  700  pupils  and  27  masters,  and  a 
college  |ffoper,  with  250  undergraduates 
and  11  professors.  It  is  managed  by  a 
board  of  trustees. 

TheBoman  Catholic  Cathedrali  Con- 
nnt^  and  Sehools,  dedicated  to  the 
Virgin  Mary,  are  quite  close  to  the  Old 
Jail,  and  i  m.  N.W.  of  the  Fort. 
There  is  a  tower  about  150  ft.  high. 

To  the  N.  of  the  church  is  a  fine 
white  building,  a  convent,  and  to  the 
S.  is  the  priests'  house.  On  the  wall 
of  the  garden  are  several  inscriptions, 
the  oldest  of  which  bears  the  date  of 
1791  A.D.  These  buildings  are  large, 
but  not  architecturally  interesting. 
The  establishment  is,  however,  worthy 
of  attention  for  its  antiquity  and  the 
good  work  it  does.  It  is  the  seat  of  a 
Roman  Catholic  Bishop.  The  Mission 
was  founded  in  the  time  of  Akbar,  and 
bas  long  been  celebrated  for  its  school, 
where  the  children  of  soldiers  and  others 
ve  educated.  The  earliest  tombs  con- 
nected with  the  settlement  of  Christians 
at  Agra  are  in  the  old  cemetery  attached 
to  the  Mission.  The  most  ancient  epi- 
taphs are  in  the  Armenian  character. 
John  Hessing  and  Walter  Reinhai'dt 
(Sumroo)  lie  here. 

The  Central  JaU,  1  m.  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  Fort,  is  one  of  the  largest,  if 
not  the  largest,  in  India.  The  manu- 
&ctores  in  this  Jail  are  well  worth 
attention.  In  the  carpet  factory  men 
lit  on  each  side,  ana  the  Instructor 
calls  out  the  thread  ;  his  words  are 
repeated  by  one  of  the  men,  and  the 
tliread  put  m  accordingly.  A  first-class 
carpet  has  eight  threads  in  the  weft,  and 
eight  in  the  warp  in  the  sq.  in.  Six 
men  in  a  fall  day  of  ten  hours'  work  can 
5  in.  a  day  in  a  12  ft.  carpet 


Qtad&OB,  otherwise  called 


the  Asafa  Bagh,  where  the  band  plays 
every  Wednesday.  In  the  centre  is  a 
lofty  sandstone  obelisk,  with  an  inscrip- 
tion to  General  Sir  John  Adams, 
G.C.B. 

The  Tomb  of  I'timada-daulah.— 
This  building,  one  of  the  finest  in  Agra, 
stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jumna 
near  the  E.  I.  Railway  Goods  Station. 
The  traveller  should  cross  the  pontoon 
bridge  and  turn  to  the  left,  and  at  about 
200  yds.  he  will  come  to  the  garden 
in  which  it  stands.  It  is  the  tomb  of 
Ghayas  Beg,  called  by  Sir  W.  Sleeman, 
Khwajah  Accas,  a  Persian,  who  was  the 
father  of  Nur  Jehan,  and  her  brother, 
Asaf  Khan,  and  became  high  treasurer 
of  Jehangir.  This  mausoleum  is  entirely 
encased  -vrith  white  marble  externally, 
and  partly  internally,  being  beautifully 
inlaid  with  pietra  aura  work.  It  is  a 
square  building  with  an  octagonal  tower 
at  each  comer  and  a  i-aised  pavilion  in 
the  centre.  On  each  side  of  each  of  the 
entrances  are  window  recesses  filled  with 
exquisite  marble  lattice-work.  Notice 
the  remarkably  delicate  low  relief  work 
in  the  return  of  the  doorways  overhead. 
Each  chamber  has  a  door  leading  into 
the  next,  but  the  central  has  only  one 
open  door,  the  other  three  being  filled 
uith  marble  lattice- work.  In  this  cen- 
tral chamber  are  the  two  yellow  marble 
tombs  of  Ghayas  Beg  and  his  wife,  on 
a  platform  of  variegated  stone.  The 
walls  are  decorated  with  pietra  dura. 

There  are  seven  tombs  altogether  in  the 
mausoleum.  The  side  chambers  are 
also  panelled  with  slabs  of  inlaid  marble, 
but  the  upper  part  of  the  walls  and  the 
ceiling  are  lined  with  plaster,  orna- 
mented with  paintings  of  flowers  and 
long-necked  vases.  In  the  thickness  of 
the  outer  walls  of  the  S.  chamber  there 
are  two  flights  of  stairs,  which  ascend 
to  the  second  story,  on  which  is  the 
pavilion,  containing  two  marble  ceno- 
taphs, counterparts  of  those  below.  The 
roof  is  canopy-shaped,  with  broad  slop- 
ing eaves,  and  marble  slabs.  The  sides 
are  of  perforated  marble  lattice-work. 
The  octagonal  towers,  faced  with  marble, 
at  each  corner  of  the  mausoleum  spread 
out  into  balconies  supported  by  brackets 
at  the  level  of  the  roof.  There  was  a 
'  marble   railing,    which   has   been   de- 

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l: 


stroyed,  along  the  platfonn  of  the  roof. 
The  mausoleum  is  surrounded  by  a 
walled  enclosure,  except  towards  the 
river,  or  W.  front ;  in  the  centre  of  the 
river-front  is  a  red  sandstone  pavilion. 

Chini  ka  Boza,  or  china  tomb, 
stands  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jumna, 
opposite  Agra.  It  has  one  great  dome 
resting  on  an  octagonal  base.  In  the 
centre  is  a  beautiful  octagonal  domed 
chamber  in  ruins.  In  it  are  two  tombs 
of  brick,  which  have  replaced  marble 
tombs.  Besides  the  central  chamber, 
there  are  four  square  comer  chambers, 
and  four  side  halls.  The  mausoleum 
stands  on  the  river  bank,  in  a  masonry 
enclosure.  Though  called  china,  this 
ruin  is  only  externally  glazed  or  en- 
amelled. It  is  said  to  have  been  built 
by  Afzal  Ehan,  in  the  time  of  Aurang- 
zib. 

The  Ealan  Husjid  is  opposite  the 
present  Medical  School  in  the  Saban 
Eatra.  Mr.  Carlleyle  thinks  it  the 
oldest  mosque  in  Agra,  and  that  it  was 
built  by  Sikandar  I^di. 

Akbar'8  Tomb  is  at  Sikomdarah^  so 
named  from  Sikandar  Lodi,  who  reigned 
from  1489  a.d.  It  is  5^  m.  from  the 
cantonment  at  Agra,  in  a  N.W.  direc- 
tion. There  are  many  tombs  on  the 
way,  and  a  badly  sculptured  horse,  which 
formerly  stood  on  an  inscribed  pedestal, 
now  removed.  This  is  on  the  left  or  S. 
side  of  the  road,  nearly  4  m.  from  A^a, 
and  nearly  opposite  the  lofty  arched 
gateway  of  an  ancient  building  called 
the  Eachi  ki  SaraL  At  ^  m.  farther  on 
is  a  tank  of  red  sandstone,  with  orna- 
mental octagonal  towers,  called  Guru 
ka  Tal.  On  the  S.  side  are  three  flights 
of  steps,  and  E.  of  them  is  a  long  and 
broad  channel  of  masonry,  which  brought 
water  to  the  tank.  At  the  E.  side 
there  is  a  mausoleum  on  a  platfonn  of 
masonry.  According  to  Mr.  Carlleyle, 
the  Barahdarl  was  built  by  Sikandar 
Lodi  in  1495  a.d.  It  is  a  red  sand- 
stone two-storied  building.  The  ground 
floor  contains  forty  chambers.  Each 
comer  of  the  building  is  surmounted 
by  a  short  octagonal  tower.  It  is  com- 
monly known  as  the  tomb  of  Begam 
Mariam,  because  Akbar  interred  here 
his  so-called  Portuguese  Christian  wife 
Mary.    Her  tomb  is  in  the  vault  below 


and  there  is  also  a  white  marble  ceno- 
taph in  the  centre  of  the  upper  story. 
The  Barahdari  is  now  occupied  by  a 
part  of  the  establishment  of  the  Agra 
Orphan  Asylum. 

The  gateway  to  the  garden  surround- 
ing Akbar'8  Tomb  is  truly  magnificent 
It  is  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid  with  white 
marble,  very  massive,  and  with  a 
splendid  scroll,  a  foot  broad,  of  Turiua 
writing  adomine  it.  On  the  top  of  the 
gateway,  at  each  comer,  rises  a  white 
minaret  of  two  stories.  The  kiosks 
which  crowned  them  have  been  de- 
stroyed over  100  years.  There  is  a  fine 
view  from  the  platform  at  the  top,  and 
it  is  worth  ascending  the  steep  stairs  for 
it.  To  the  W.  are  seen  the  Orphanage 
Church,  and  a  little  to  the  right  of  it 
the  Begam  ka  Mahal,  its  dark  red  colour 
contrasting  with  the  white  of  the 
church.  Far  to  the  S.W.  on  a  clear  day 
the  grand  gateway  at  Fatehpur-Sikri  can 
be  dimly  seen.  Over  the  tomb  to  the 
N.  is  seen  the  Jumna  ;  to  the  S.E.  are 
seen  the  Fort,  the  Taj,  the  church  in 
the  Civil  lines,  and  the  city  of  Agra. 
A  broad  paved  path  leads  to  the  mauso- 
leum of  Akbar.  It  is  a  pyramidal 
building  of  4  stories,  three  of  which 
are  of  red  sandstone,  the  fourth,  where 
rests  Akbar's  cenotaph,  being  of  white 
marble.  A  massive  cloister  runs  rouud 
the  lower  story,  broken  S.  and  N.  by 
high  central  arches :  that  on  the  S.  forms 
the  entrance.  The  vaulted  ceiling  of 
the  vestibule  was  elaborately  frescoed 
in  gold  and  blue.  A  section  has  been 
restored.  The  Surah-i-Mulk  runs  under 
the  cornice  in  a  scroll  1  ft  broad.  A 
gentle  incline  leads  to  the  vaulted 
chamber  in  which  the  great  Akbar 
rests ;  it  is  quite  dark,  and  the  once 
illuminated  walls  are  now  dirty  and  de- 
faced. On  either  side  of  the  main  arch 
bays  of  the  cloister  are  screened  off  and 
contain  tombs.  First  on  the  left  is 
a  tomb  with  an  Arabic  inscription  in 
beautiful  characters.  This  is  tie  tomb 
of  Shukm'n  Nisa  Begam.  The  second 
is  the  tomb  of  the  uncle  of  Bahadur 
Shah,  the  last  king  of  Delhi  The  next 
is  the  tomb  of  Zibu'n  Nisa,  daurfitcr  of 
Aurangzib  ;  and  in  a  niche  in  the  side 
of  the  room,  farthest  from  the  entranec^ 
is  an  alabaster  tablet  inscribed  with 

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ROUTE  9.      PATEHPDB-SIKRI 


177 


the  dd  divine  names.  On  tlie  £.  of  the 
entrance  is  the  tomb  of  Aram  Bano. 

Narrow  staircases  lead  above.  The 
fourth  or  highest  platform  is  surrounded 
by  a  beautiful  doister  of  white  marble, 
carved  on  the  outer  side  into  lattice- 
work in  squares  of  2  ft.,  every  square 
having  a  different  pattern.  In  the 
centre  is  the  splendid  white  cenotaph 
of  Akbtr,  just  over  the  place  where  his 
dust  rests  in  the  gloomy  vaulted  cham- 
ber below.  On  the  N.  side  of  this 
cenotaph  is  inscribed  the  motto  of  the 
sect  he  founded,  "Allahu  Akbar," 
"God  is  greatest"  ;  and  on  the  S.  side 
"JaUa  Jalalahu,"  "May  His  glory 
shine."  To  the  N.  of  this  cenotaph, 
at  the  distance  of  4  ft.,  is  a  handsome 
white  marble  pillar  4  ft.  high,  which 
was  once  covered  vjrith  gold  and  con- 
tamed  the  Koh-i-Nur.  It  is  said  that 
Nadir  Shah  took  it  from  here. 

A  short  distance  to  the  left  of  the 
main  road,  which  runs  through  Sik- 
andarah,  there  is  an  old  mosque,  partly 
built  of  brick  and  partly  of  red  sand- 
stone, called  Bhuri  Khan's.  It  has  one 
d(nne.  There  is  an  octaeonal  tower  at 
each  front  comer.  A  snort  distance 
to  the  S.K  are  the  remains  of  Bhuri 
Khan's  palace,  namely,  the  gateway 
and  part  of  the  fa<^e.  Just  beyond 
the  N.W.  comer  of  the  mausoleum  at 
Sikandarali  is  an  old  Hindu  boundair 
stone  with  a  Nagari  inscription,  which 
gives  the  date  1494. 


A  good  road — the  one  used  by  the 
great  Akbar  himself — leads  W.  from 
Agra  through  a  shady  avenue  to  22^  m. 

FATEHFUR  -  SIXBI,  3^  D.B.  (The 
nearest  rly.  stas.  are  Achnera  June, 
12  SL,  and  Bhurtpur,  11  m.  No 
carria^  at  either  place. ) 

Phi^eeding  to  tne  W.  from  Agra 
through  Sha^gai^,  observe  at  the  en- 
trance to  it  the  ruins  of  a  mosque,  with 
an  inscription  saying  it  was  built  in 
1821,  the  16th  year  of  Jehangir's  reign. 
It  marks  the  site  of  the  old  Ajmere 
sate.  Farther  on  is  a  Muslim  cemetery. 
Known  as  Mujdi  ka  Gumbaz,  where  is 
Uie  tomb  of  Mirza  Hindal,  son  of  Babar, 
hdier  of  Akbar's  chief  wife.  At  the 
foot  of  the  tomb  is  a  monolith  7  ft. 
^^  with  the  date  1570. 
[Indda] 


The  royal  and  now  deserted  city  of 
Fatehpur-Sikri,  standing  on  a  low 
sandstone  ridge,  was  essentially  Akbar's, 
the  whole  being  begun  (1670)  and  com- 
pleted during  his  reign  ;  owing  to  this 
fact  and  on  account  of  its  very  perfect 
state  of  preservation  it  forms  a  unique 
specimen  of  a  city  in  the  exact  condition 
in  which  it  was  occupied  by  the  Great 
Mogul  and  his  court.  It  is  hard  to 
say  what  induced  Akbar  to  build  at 
Fatehpur-Sikri,  possibly  because  after 
the  death  of  twm  sons  it  was  prog- 
nosticated by  Salim  Chisti,  an  old 
saint  residing  there,  that  another  would 
be  bom  to  him  who  would  survive.  As 
foretold,  this  was  the  case,  and  the 
child,  called  Salim  after  the  hermit, 
eventually  ascended  the  throne  as 
Jehangir.  Akbar  cave  the  town  the 
prefix  "Fatehnur"  (city  of  victory)  to 
commemorate  his  conquest  of  Guzerat. 

Beyond  the  period  of  Akbar's  occu- 
pation, Fatehpur-Sikri  has  no  local 
history  worth  mentioning.  The  British 
Government  had  a  tahsil  here  as  late 
as  1850,  when  it  was  removed  to  Earaoli 
on  the  ground  of  unhealthiness.  Dur- 
ing the  Mutiny  it  was  twice  occupied 
by  Neemuch  and  the  Nusseerabad  reoels 
between  July  and  October  1857. 

From  the  arrangement  of  the  build- 
ings it  is  evident  that  Akbar  had  the 
whole  carefully  planned  out.  This 
will  be  seen  by  the  position  of  the 
Khwabgah,  Akbar's  private  room, 
which  commands  the  Ik^fter  Khana^ 
Record  Ofl&ce,  and  the  whole  of  the 
principal  buildings.  From  it  he  could 
reach,  without  being  observed,  "Jodh 
Bai " — by  a  covered  way  pulled  down 
during  19th  century  restorations — 
Miriam's  House,  Bir  Bal's,  Panch 
Mahal,  Turkish  Sultana's  House,Council 
Chamber,  etc.  etc.  On  entering  the 
city  by  the  Agra  gate,  the  traveller  will 
see  the  remains  of  an  old  building 
formerly  used  by  merchants.  Proceed- 
ing up  the  road,  which  lies  between 
mounds  of  debris  and  mins,  he  passes 
beneath  the  Nawbat  Khana,  from  the 
upper  rooms  of  which  musicians  played 
as  Akbar  entered  the  city.  Farther  1. 
are  the  remains  of  the  Treasury,  and 
opposite  it  what  is  known  traditionally 
as  the  Mint,  a  large  quadrangular  build- 
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178 


ROUTE  9.      JEYPORE  TO  AGRA 


India 


ing.  Just  in  front  of  this  is  the  Diwan- 
i-'Am,  measuring  some  866  ft.  from  N. 
to  S.  by  181  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and 
surroimded  by  a  flat-roofed  cloister. 
On  the  W.  side  is  the  hall,  with  a  deep 
verandah  in  front,  from  which  Akbar 
delivered  his  judgments  in  the  presence 
of  the  assembled  crowd  below.  He 
stood  between  two  pierced  stone  screens 
of  fine  geometric  design,  extant  but 
restored.     The  room    behind    has    a 


in  Persian  (much  defaced)  to  the  Em- 
peror. Originally  the  chamber  was 
painted.  Below  is  a  room,  and  in  it  a 
platform  supported  by  two  splendid 
red  sandstone  shafts  beautifrilly  carved. 
Probably  the  Hindu  priest  lived  here. 
W.  is  a  door  which  led  to  the  Dafter 
Khana  (see  above),  and  by  it  the 
officers  and  others  could  enter  the 
Khwabgah.  The  space  to  the  N. 
formed  the  Khas  HahaL 


peculiar  root  which  was  painted.  The 
road  leads  through  the  courtyard  to  the 
Dafter  Khana,  or  Record  Office,  now 
the  D.B.  On  the  back  is  a  staircase 
leading  to  the  roof,  from  which  there  is 
a  fine  view  of  the  city.  The  inner 
stone  partition  walls  are  modem.  In 
front,  facing  N.,  is  Akbar's  Khwab- 
gah, or  Sleeping  Apartment,  literally 
y  House  of  Dreams."  Written  on  the 
internal  walls  over  the  architraves  of 
the  doors  are  some  complimentary  verses 


U^aiAer^SoutttUac^ 


At  the  N.E.  corner  of  the  courtyard 
is  the  ''TurkiBh  Qneen's"  House, 
thought  by  most  people  to  be  the  most 
interesting  apartment  of  alL  As  it 
now  stands  it  consists  of  only  one  small 
chamber  16  X  15  ft  Every  square  inch 
is  carved,  including  the  soffits  of  the 
cornices.  The  ceiling  and  decoration 
of  the  verandah  pillars  and  pilasteis 
are  exceptionally  fine.  Inside  is  a  most 
elaborate  dado  about  4  ft.  high,  con- 
sisting of  8  sculptured  panels  repre- 

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ROUTE  9.      FATBHPUR-SIKRI 


179 


senting  forest  views,  animal  life,  etc. 
Above,  the  wall  takes  the  form  of  a 
stone  lattice  screen,  the  divisions  of 
which  were  used  as  shelves.  Much  of 
the  carving  is  curiously  like  Chinese 
work. 

W.  is  the  Girls'  School,  a  small  plain 
building  carried  on  square  stone  piers. 
In  front  is  an  open  square,  upon  the 
stone  flags  of  which  is  Akhar's  rachisi- 
board,  with  his  stone  seat  in  the  centre. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  a  cross  and  is  laid 
out  in  coloured  pavement  It  is  said 
the  game  was  played  with  slave  girls  to 
take  the  moves,  as  we  use  ivory  pieces 
on  a  chess-board. 

At  the  N.  of  the  quadrangle  is  the 
Diwan-i-Khas,  or  "Private  Hall,"  or 
Cooncil  Chamber.  From  the  outside 
it  appears  to  be  two  stories  high,  but 
on  entering  it  is  found  to  consist  of  one 
only,  with  a  central  pillar  crowned  by 
an  immense  circular  corbelled  capital, 
radiating  from  which  to  the  4  comers 
of  the  building  are  4  stone  causeways 
enclosed  by  open  trellis  stone  balus- 
trades (restored).  Tradition  says  that 
in  the  centre  of  this  capital  the  Emperor 
sat  whilst  the  comers  were  occupied  by 
Ids  4  ministers.  The  shaft  is  beauti- 
fally  carved,  and  should  be  carefully 
studied.  On  the  E.  and  W.  sides  are 
stone  staircases  communicating  with 
the  roof.  The  open  screen-work  in  the 
windows  is  modem.  A  few  feet  to  the 
W.  is  the  building  known  as  the  Anh 
UichatUi,  and  the  story  told  is  that 
Ae  Emperor  here  played  hide-and- 
seek  witn  the  ladies  of  the  Court ;  but 
it  was  most  likely  used  for  records. 
It  consists  of  3  large  lofty  rooms  sur- 
rounded by  narrow  passages,  lighted 
by  stone  screen  windows.  The  ceuings 
of  2  of  the  rooms  are  coved,  but  the 
3d  is  flat  and  supported  on  struts  orna- 
mented with  grotesque  carving.  In 
front,  on  the  S.£.  comer,  is  a  small 
canopied  stracture  used  by  the  astro- 
loger, who  probably  was  a  Hindu  Guru, 
or  "teacher."  It  is  after  the  style  of 
trchitectare  used  by  the  Hindus  dur- 
ing the  11th  and  12th  cents.  Under 
the  architraves  are  curiously  carved 
abuts  issuing  from  the  mouths  of 
iBonsters  dowelled  into  the  shafts 
at  Uie  comers.    The  under  side  of  the 


dome  was  painted.  Adjoining  these 
buildings  to  the  W.  is  the  Hospital. 
Some  of  the  stone  partitions  forming 
the  wards  are  eztant.  The  ceilings 
are  of  solid  slabs  of  stone,  carved  on 
the  outside  to  represent  tiles. 

From  here  is  next  seen  the  Fanch 
Mahal,  a  5-storied  colonnade,  each  tier 
being  smaller  than  the  one  below,  till 
nothing  but  a  small  kiosque  remains 
atop.  It  was  probably  erected  for  the 
ladies  of  the  court  as  a  pleasure  resort, 
as  the  sides  were  originally  enclosed 
with  stone  screens :  these  were  removed 
during  modem  restorations,  when  the 
solid  stone  parapets  were  replaced  by 
the  pierced  ones  as  at  present  seen,  and 
the  positions  of  the  staircases  were 
altered.  The  first  floor  is  remarkable 
on  account  of  the  variety  of  the  56 
columns  which  support  the  story 
above,  no  two  are  alike  in  design. 
Many  of  the  shafts  are  similar,  but  the 
caps  vary:  at  the  angles  of  one  are 
elephants'  heads  with  interlaced  trunks, 
on  another  a  man  gathering  frait  On 
the  N.W,  angle  is  a  group  of  4  which 
should  be  examined.  From  the  top- 
most floor  there  is  a  splendid  view. 

S.  and  a  little  to  W.  of  the  Panch 
Mahal  is  the  House  of  Miriam  (said  to 
have  been  Akbar's  Portuguese  Christian 
wife,  but  more  probably  a  Hindu 
princess),  a  small  building  with  defaced 
frescoes  in  the  niches  and  upon  the 
walls,  and  piers  of  verandah.  One,  in 
which  the  wings  of  angels  are  distinctly 
visible,  suggests  the  Annunciation.  At 
one  time  the  whole  house  was  painted 
inside  and  out.  The  original  name 
Sunahra  Makan,  or  "Golden  House," 
was  given  it  on  account  of  the  profuse 
gilding  with  which  its  walls  were 
adomed.  On  the  N.W.  is  Miriam*s 
Garden,  and  at  S.E.  angle  her  bath, 
with  a  large  column  in  the  centre.  On 
the  W.  side  is  the  Naginah,  or  Zenana, 
Moeque,  and  the  remains  of  a  small 
Turkish  bath.  At  the  S.  end  of 
garden  is  a  small  fish  tank,  which,  to- 
gether with  the  stone  pavement  of  the 
garden,  was  brought  to  light  by  Mr.  E. 
W.  Smith  of  the  Arch.  Survey,  1891. 

To  the  N.W.  a  road  leads  to  the 
Hathi  Pol  (Elephant  Gate)  on  the  N. 
of  the  city.     Over  iit^  W.  archway,  20 

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180 


ROUTE  9.      JEYPORE  TO  AGRA 


India 


ft.  from  the  ground,  are  2  life-sized 
elephants  much  mutilated  (probably 
by  Aurangzib).  To  the  1.  is  the 
Sungin  Btuj,  a  groined  bastion  or  keep, 
said  to  have  been  the  commencement 
of  the  fortifications  planned  by  Akbar, 
but  abandoned  on  account  of  objections 
raised  by  Saint  Salim  Chisti.  Down 
the  old  stone  paved  road  on  the  1.  is 
the  Earwan  Saxai  (caravanserai).  It 
consists  of  a  large  court  272  x  246  ft. 
surrounded  by  the  merchants'  hostels. 
Formerly  the  S.E.  side  was  3  stories 
high.  At  the  N.  end,  beyond  the 
Sarai,  stands  the  Hiran  Minar  (Deer 
Minaret),  a  circular  tower  some  70  ft. 
high  studded  withprotrudingelephants' 
tusks  of  stone.  Tradition  says  that  it 
is  erected  over  the  grave  of  Akbar's 
favourite  elephants,  and  that  from  the 
lantern  in  the  top  the  Emperor  shot 
antelope  and  other  game  brought  up  by 
beaters,  hence  its  name.  The  land  to 
the  N.  and  W.  was  a  large  lake  in 
Akbar's  time. 

On  the  1.  of  the  road  returning  to 
the  Hathi  Pol  is  a  very  fine  stone 
well  surrounded  by  rooms  and  stair- 
cases which  formed  a  part  of  the 
waterworks.  The  water  was  lifted 
from  this  level  by  Persian  wheels 
and  a  system  of  reservoirs  to  the 
arched  gate  on  the  N.W.  corner  of 
Bir  Bal's  House,  and  thence  dispensed 
throughout  the  palace. 

The  palace  of  Birtoal  is  to  the  S.W. 
of  Miriam's  Garden  (see  above).  It  is 
the  finest  residence  in  Fatehpur-Sikri, 
and  was  built  by  Rajah  Bir  Bal  for  his 
daughter.  It  is  a  2-storied  building  of 
red  sandstone  standing  on  a  raised 
platform,  and  consists  of  4  rooms  15 
ft  sq.  and  2  entrance  porches  on  the 
ground  floor  and  2  above  with  small 
terraces  in  front  of  them,  enclosed  by 
stone  screens,  forming  a  ladies'  pro- 
menade. Over  the  upper  rooms  are 
flat-ribbed  cupolas,  carried  on  octagonal 
drums  and  supported  on  richly  orna- 
mented corbel  brackets  stretching 
across  the  angles  of  the  rooms  ;  and  the 
stone  panelled  walls  and  niches  are 
covered  with  intricate  patterns.  The 
ceilings  of  the  lower  rooms  are  supported 
on  a  fine  and  unique  frieze,  and  the 
whole  of  the  interior,  pilasters,  recesses, 


walls,  and  cusp-arched  doorways  are 
elaborately  and  beautifully  carved  with 
geometrical  patterns.  The  exterior 
walls  are  almost  as  profusely  orna- 
mented. No  wood  has  been  used  in 
the  construction  of  this  extraordinary 
building,  to  which  the  words  of  Victor 
Hugo  have  been  applied  :  **If  it  were 
not  the  most  minute  of  palaces,  it  was 
the  most  gigantic  of  jewel-cases." 
Rajah  Birbal  was  celebrated  for  his  wit 
and  learning,  and  was  the  only  Hindu 
of  eminence  who  embraced  the  new 
religion  of  Akbar,  whose  favourite 
courtier  he  was.  He  perished  with  the 
whole  of  the  army  he  was  commanding 
in  the  Yusufzye  country  to  the  N.E. 
of  Peshawar  in  1586. 

S.  of  Bir  Bal's  house  are  the  Stables 
for  102  horses  and  nearly  as  many 
camels.  In  some  of  the  mangers  stone 
rings  for  the  horses*  halters  stul  remain, 
and  on  the  N.W.  side  one  of  the  old 
doors.  The  camel  stables  are  lighted 
by  openings  in  the  roof. 

The  Palace  of  Jodh  Bai,  erroneously 
so  called,  was  probably  used  by  the 
Emperor  or  by  his  chief  wife  Sultana 
Rukia.  It  adjoins  the  stables,  but  the 
entrance  is  on  the  E.  from  the  open 
space  in  front  of  the  Record  Ojfice.  It 
is  a  quadrangular  building,  232  x  215 
ft.  The  courtyard  within  has  recep- 
tion rooms  on  the  N.,  S.,  and  W.  sides 
connected  by  a  flat -roofed  corridor 
partly  closed  by  stone  walls.  The 
room  on  the  W.  is  more  ornate  than 
the  others,  and  in  the  rear  wall  is  a 
fireplace.  There  are  chambers  above, 
and  those  on  the  N.  and  S.  sides  rise 
to  2  stories  :  they  are  gable-roofed  and 
ornamented  with  blue  enamelled  tiling. 
At  the  angles  the  chambers  are  sur- 
mounted by  cupolas,  originally  painted. 

Overlooking  Miiiam's  Garden  is  a 
small  room,  the  walls  of  which  are 
entirely  composed  of  beautiful  stone 
lattice-work.  Prom  the  mezzanine  floor 
on  the  N.  side  a  closed  passage  leads  to 
a  garden  abutting  on  the  waterworks, 
beside  which  a  gallery  passed  to  the 
N.  side  of  the  Sarai  near  the  Hiran 
Minar.  It  is  now  in  ruins,  and  not 
easy  of  identification.  In  the  pass- 
age, and  just  before  the  garden  is 
reached,  is  a  very  fine  stone  screen 

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181 


beneath  a  small  cupola  which  should 
be  seen. 

The  Dargah  and  Mosque  are  S.  W.  of 
the  Becord  Office.  The  £.  gate,  called 
the  Badshahi,  or  "royal"  gate,  opens 
into  the  great  quadrangle.  To  the  rt  is 
the  Tomb  or  Dargah  of  Shaik  Salim 
Ghisti,the  Kawasa  or  gi-andson  of  Shak- 
har  Ganj  Shah,  who  is  buried  at  Pak 
Patan.  It  is  surrounded  by  beautiful 
white  marble  lattice-work  screens,  and 
has  doors  of  solid  ebony,  ornamented 
with  brass.  Within,  the  building  is 
marble  only  for  the  first  4  ft  The  canopy 
oyer  the  tomb  of  the  saint  is  inlaid  with 
ikiother-of-pearl,  hung  with  the  usual 
dkphy  of  ostrich  eggs.  On  the  ceno- 
taph is  written  the  date  of  the  saint's 
death  and  the  date  of  the  completion  of 
the  building,  1580,  "May  God  hallow 
his  tomb  !  The  beloved  helper  of  the 
sect  and  its  saint,  Shaik  Salim,  whose 
miraculous  gifts  and  propinquity  to  the 
Divine  Being  are  celebrated,  and  by 
whom  the  lamp  of  the  family  of  Chisti 
illuminated.  Be  not  double-sighted, 
looking  to  the  transitory  self,  as  well 
as  to  the  everlasting  Deity.  The  year 
of  his  decease  is  known  throughout  the 
world."  This  last  line  is  the  chrono- 
gram.^ 

The  brackets  which  support  the  drip- 
stone or  eaves  of  the  tomb  are  copies  of 
those  in  the  old  mosque  of  the  stone- 
masons outside  the  quadrangle  and  W. 
of  the  mosque,  where  Shaik  Salim  lived 
his  hermit  life  in  a  cave  now  covered 
by  a  room.  In  a  portico  on  the  right 
the  saint  taught  his  disciples  before 
the  place  had  attracted  the  notice  of 
royalty.  Childless  women,  both  Hindu 
and  Mohammedan,  resort  to  the  tomb 
and  pray  the  saint  to  intercede  in  their 
|avour.  On  the  N.  of  the  quadrangle 
is  also  the  tomb  of  Islam  Khan,  sur- 
mounted with  a  cupola ;  he  was  the 
grandson  of  the  sain^  and  Governor  of 
Heneal. 

The  Hosque  proper,  to  the  W. ,  is  said 
to  he  a  copy  of  the  one  at  Mecca.  It 
is  about  70  ft  high,  and  very  beautiful. 
It  consists  of  3  interior  square  chambers 
surrounded  by  rows  of  lofty  pillars  of 

1  An  the  inscriptions  here  may  be  fonnd 
in  the  Miftahu  'I  Tawarikh,  by  John  EUis, 
printed  at  Agra. 


Hindu  type.  At  the  N.  and  S.  ends 
are  zenana  chambers.  Going  out  by 
a  door  at  the  back  of  the  mosque,  in  an 
enclosure  on  the  right  is  an  iQfant's 
tomb,  said  to  be  that  of  the  saint's  son, 
whose  life  was  sacrificed  at  the  age  of 
6  months  in  order  that  Akbar's  son 
(Jehangir)  might  live  when  bom.  At 
the  S.  of  the  quadrangle  is  the  Gate  of 
Viotory,  Buland  Darwazah  ("high 
gate  "),  which  towers  to  the  height  of 
1 30  ft.  Fergusson  says  that  when  looked 
at  from  below  its  appearance  is  noble  be- 
yond that  of  any  portal  attached  to  any 
mosque  in  India,  perhaps  in  the  whole 
world.  The  grandeur  of  this  great  height 
is  increased  by  a  vast  flight  of  steps  on 
the  outside,  giving  a  total  height  of 
160  ft.     Fine  view  from  the  top. 

In  the  archwajr  is  an  inscription  on 
the  left  hand  going  out,  which  says 
that  the  "King  of  Kings,  Shadow  of 
God,  Jalalu-din,  Muhammad  Akbar, 
the  Emperor,  on  his  return  from  con- 
quering the  kingdoms  of  the  S.,  and 
Khandesh,  formerly  called  Dhandesh, 
came  to  Fatehpur  in  the  46th  year  of 
his  reign,  corresponding  to  1601  a.d., 
and  proceeded  from  thence  to  Agra." 
On  the  opposite  side  is  inscribed  "  Isa 
(Jesus),  on  whom  be  peace,  said :  *  The 
world  is  a  bridge,  pass  over  it,  but 
build  no  house  on  it.  The  world  en- 
dures but  an  hour,  spend  it  in  devo- 
tion.'" The  doors  of  this  great  gate- 
way are  studded  with  horse-shoes,  affixed 
by  the  owners  of  sick  horses  who  im- 
plore the  prayers  of  the  saint  for  their 
recovery.  From  the  steps,  or  better 
still,  from  the  summit  of  the  gate,  may 
be  seen  the  villages  of  Sikri  and  Fateh- 
pur, and  a  tract  of  dry  and  barren 
country.  It  is  supposed  that  it  was 
the  want  of  water  which  caused  Fateh- 
pur to  be  deserted.  In  front  of  the 
steps  are  some  Turkish  baths.  N.  of 
the  Dargah  and  outside  the  mosque 
are  the  houses  of  the  brothers  Abu  '1 
Fazl  and  Faizi,  the  famous  and  learned 
favourites  of  Akbar  and  followers  of  his 
new  religion.  These  are  now  turned 
into  a  boys'  school.  They  consist  of 
several  rooms  ;  in  one  Hindu  and  Urdu 
are  taught,  in  another  English,  and  in 
a  third  Persian  and  Arabic.  What  is 
now  the  English  class-room  was  the 


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zenana.  To  tbe  W.  of  Boland  Dar- 
wazah  is  a  large  well,  into  which  boys 
and  men  spying  from  the  walls,  from 
heights  va^ng  from  30  to  80  ft.  A 
Hela,  or  fair,  commences  on  the  20th 
of  Bamzarit  the  anniversary  of  the 
saint's  death,  and  ksts  for  8  days. 

A  little  to  the  N.E.  of  the  Record 
Office  is  the  HaMm,  or  doctor's  house, 
and  a  very  large  and  fine  Humxnam, 
the  walls  and  ceilings  of  which  are 
richly  ornamented  with  stamped  plaster- 
work.  To  the  rt.  on  leaying  and  ad- 
joining the  Nusseerabad  road  is  a  spa- 
cious and  interesting  Baoli,  from  which 
the  baths  and  this  part  of  the  city  were 
supplied.  Leading  to  a  well  at  one 
end  is  a  broad  staircase  enclosed  on 
each  side  by  rooms.  Around  the  well 
are  chambers  for  Persian  wheels  for 
drawing  the  water.  ^ 

The  Nusseerabad  road  is  stone  paved, 
and  leads  through  the  market  to  the 
Tehra  Gkite.  On  the  outside  is  a  tomb 
with  small  mosque  and  'Idgah,  but 
they  are  not  of  much  importance. 


ROUTE  10 

Agra  to  Bindrabak  by  Aohnera 
Juno,  and  Muttra  (with  excur- 
sions to  Mahaban  and  Dig). 

Achnera  junc  sta.  (1 7  m.  W.  of  Agra), 
on  the  B.  B.  and  C.  I.  Rly.  (see 
p.  147). 

From  Achnera  to  Muttra  is  23  m., 
from  Hathras  junc  (97  m.  S.  of  Delhi) 
to  Muttra  is  29  m. 

Muttra  (or  Mathura)  junc  sta., 
I  D.B.,  in  the  cantonments  S.  of  the  city 
[  (the  town  rly.  sta.  is  on  the  branch  line 
I  to  Bindraban,  8  m.  distant,  see  below). 
1  Pop.  60,000.  The  city  stretches  for 
t        about  IJ  m.  along  the  right  bank  of 

the  Jumna.  The  Fort,  rebuilt  in  Ak- 
i  1  Fathepur  Sikrl  has  been  extensively  illns- 

trated  in  4  vols,  of  the  Archce^ogioal  Survey 

BeporU  by  Mr.  B.  W.  Smith. 


bar's  time,  is  in  the  centre :  only  the 
substructure  remains.  The  Jail  and 
Collector's  Office  are  1|  m.  to  the  S. 
beyond  the  town,  and  1  m.  to  the  W. 
of  the  town  is  a  Jain  temple  and  a 
large  mound  of  bricks  called  Chaurasl 
Tila.  In  a  line  with  the  Jain  temple, 
but  bordering  on  the  town,  is  the  Katra 
mound  (see  below),  and  about  ^  m.  to 
the  S.  is  another  mound  called  Kankali, 
and  to  the  S.W.,  at  distances  varying 
from  )  HL  to  1  m.,  are  five  mounds 
called  the  Chaubarah  mounds.^  There 
are  3  Churches— the  Anglican  *'  Christ 
Church,"  the  Roman  CathoHc  Church, 
and  a  Presbyterian  Church.  The  former 
contains  several  interesting  monu- 
ments. 

The  city  is  entered  by  the  Hardinge 
Gate,  also  called  Holi  Gate,  built  by 
the  municipality.  The  finely -carved 
stonework  i&qadea  of  the  better  class  of 
houses  are  well  worthy  of  inspection, 
and  are  one  of  the  peculiarities  of  the 
city. 

The  Biver  and  Ghats. — Even  in  the 
beginning  of  May  the  Jumna  is  here 
800  yds.  broad.  There  is  a  paved  street 
the  whole  way  along  it,  with  bathing 
ghats,  descending  to  the  water,  and 
ornamental  chabutarahs,  or  platforms, 
and  small  but  well-proportioned  pa- 
vilions. Generally  speaking,  the  men 
bathe  at  separate  ghats  from  the 
women. 

The  river  is  full  of  turtles,  some  of 
them  very  large,  poking  their  long 
necks  and  heads  out  to  be  fed.  About 
80  yds.  W.  of  the  bridge  is  the  fine 
House  of  the  Guru  Farshotamdas. 
Then  comes  another  belonging  to  a 
Guzerati,  called  Ballamdas.  Opposite 
to  this,  on  the  farther  bank  of  the  river, 
is  the  flourishing  village  of  Hans  Oanj, 
or  "Swan  borough,"  and  N.  of  this 
again  is  a  stone  tower,  55  ft.  high, 
called  the  Sati  Buxj,  because  when 
Hans  was  killed  by  Knshna,  his  widow 
committed  sati  here.  Growse,  p.  97, 
says  it  was  the  wife  of  Baiah  Bhar 
Mai,  of  Amb^r,  mother  of  Bhagwan- 
das,  who  built  it  in  1570  a.d.  The 
traveller  now  descends  several  steps  to 

1  All  these  places  will  be  fonnd  mentioned 
by  General  Conningham  in  vol.  iiL  of  his  Arrh, 
Survey  Bqports,  p.  18,  and  also  in  vol.  i.  p.  23^ 


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the  Bisraut  Ghat,  a  little  N.  of  the  Sati 
Boij,  and  so  to  a  sort  of  square,  where 
the  Rj^as  are  weighed  against  gold. 
There  is  a  small  white  marble  arch 
here,  close  to  the  river.  Beyond  this 
is  a  ghat  bmlt  by  Jai  Sing,  of  Jeypore, 
and  the  enormous  house  and  temple 
belonging  to  Seth  Lakshman  Das,  %.e. 
son  of  Seth  Govind  Das. 

The  Jnnmia  Hiujid,  once  corered 
with  encaustic  tiles,  stands  high.  Its 
court  is  14  ft  above  the  level  of  the 
street  On  either  side  of  the  fii^ade  of 
the  gateway  are  Persian  lines.  The 
chronogram  gives  the  date  1660-61. 
Over  the  fa^de  of  the  mosque  proper 
are  the  99  names  of  God.  At  the  sides 
are  two  pavilions  roofed  in  the  Hindu 
manner.  There  are  four  minarets,  which 
are  132  ft  high.  At  the  entrance  to 
the  W.  of  the  town  is  the  'Idgah  (the 
glazed  tiles  should  be  observed),  and 
about  J  m.  to  the  W.  of  the  town  is 

The  Katra,  which  is  an  enclosure 
like  that  of  a  sarai,  804  ft  long  by 
658  ft  broad.  Upon  a  terrace  stancte 
a  great  red  stone  mosque,  the  most 
conspicuous  object  in  a  distant  view  of 
Mottra.  There  is  another  terrace  6  ft 
lower,  where  are  votive  tablets  in  the 
Nagri  character,  dated  Samwat  1718- 
20.  On  this  site  stood  the  great 
temjde  of  KeiaTa  Bao,  which  Tavemier 
saw  in  the  beginning  of  Aurangzib's 
ni^,  apparently  about  1659  A.D.,  and 
which  he  describes  as  very  magnificent, 
adding  that  it  ranked  next  after  the 
temples  of  Jacannath  and  Benares 
{Travels f -pi,  ii  ok.  iii.  ch.  12,  French 
ed.,  and  Cunningham,  Reports,  vol.  iii 
pi  15. )  In  the  Katra  mound  a  number 
ef  Buddhistic  remains  have  been  found 
by  General  Cunningham  and  others, 
ioeluding  a  broken  Buddhist  railing 
pillar,  with  the  figure  of  Maya  Devi 
standing  under  the  Sal  tree,  and  also 
a  itone  on  which  was  inscribed  the 
well-known  genealogy  of  the  Gupta 
dynasty,  from  Shri  Gupta,  the  founder, 
down  to  Samudra  Gupta,  where  the 
stone  was  broken  off.  He  also  found 
hoilt  into  the  wall  of  a  well,  one  of  the 
peenliar  curved  architraves  of  a  Bud- 
dhist gateway,  and  an  inscription  on 
the  base  of  a  statue  of  Shakya  dated 
Stmwat  281,  or  224  a.d.,  in  which 


the  Yasa  Yihara  is  mentioned.  Two 
capitals  of  columns,  one  no  less  than  3 
ft.  in  diameter,  were  also  found.  A 
fragment  of  the  larger  one  is  still  to  be 
seen  lyine  inside  the  gateway.  At  the 
back  of  the  Katra  is  a  modem  temple 
to  Eesava,  and  close  by  is  the  Fotara- 
Kond,  a  tank  in  which  Krishna's  baby 
linen  was  washed.  This  tank  is  faced 
throughout  with  stone,  and  has  flights 
of  stone  steps  down  to  the  water.  There 
is  also  a  very  steep  ramp  down  where 
horses  go  to  be  washed. 

In  the  New  Museum,  erected  by 
public  subscription,  at  the  suggestion 
of  Mr.  Mark  Thqfnhill,  is  the  carving 
which  Mr.  Growse  calls,  p.  101,  "the 
most  refined  and  delicate  work  of  the 
kind  ever  executed." 

The  best  piece  of  sculpture  in  the 
Museum  is  the  Yasa-ditta  statue  of 
Buddha.  The  face  is  really  beautiful, 
more  artistic  than  that  of  any  figure 
vet  discovered,  but  the  nose  has  been 
broken  off ;  the  most  curious  object  is 
a  carved  block  representing  a  Bacchanal 
group.     Immediately  opposite  are  the 

Public  Gardens,  and  a  little  farther 
on  is  the  JalL 

When  Fa  Hian  travelled  in  the  end 
of  the  4th  century  and  the  beginning 
of  the  5th,  he  halted  a  whole  month  at 
Muttra,  and  found  that  there  were  20 
Buddhist  monasteries  with  3000  monks  ; 
but  when  Hiouen  Thsang  visited  the 
place  in  684  a.d.  the  number  had  de- 
clined to  2000,  whence  it  appears  that 
Buddhism  was  even  then  on  the  wane. 
It  had  wholly  disappeared  when  Mah- 
mud  of  Ghazni  came  to  Muttra  in  1017 
A.D.  He  remained  there  20  days,  pil- 
laged and  burned  the  city,  and  carried 
off  five  golden  idols,  whose  eyes  were  of 
rubies,  worth  50,000  dinars =£25, 000. 
A  sixth  idol  of  gold  weighed  1120  lbs., 
and  was  decorated  with  a  sapphire 
weighing  300  Mishkals,  or  3^  lbs. 
There  were  also  100  idols  of  silver, 
each  of  which  loaded  a  camel.  The 
idols  together  were  worth  not  less  than 
£300,000.  The  Brahman  temple  of 
Eesava  Rao  was  built  on  the  very  site 
where  the  great  Buddhist  monastery 
Yasa  Yihara  stood. 

Kear  the  Jail  stood  a  mound,  in 
removing  which  to  provide  a  site  for 

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the  Collector's  Office  aud  Magistrates' 
Courts,  the  most  extensive  discoveries 
were  made.  It  appears  that  on  it 
stood  two  Buddhist  monasteries,  the 
Huvishka  and  the  Kunda-Suka  Vihara. 
The  latter  is  the  place  where  the  famous 
monkey  which  made  an  offering  to 
Buddha  jumped  into  the  tank  aud 
was  killed.  At  this  mound  statues  of 
all  sizes,  has-reliefs,  pillars,  Buddhist 
rails,  votive  stupas,  stone  umbrellas, 
and  inscriptions  have  been  found. 
One  inscription  is  of  the  1st  century 
B.C.  The  earliest  is  of  the  Satrap 
Sandasa,  and  the  next  of  the  great 
King  Kanishka  in  Jhe  year  9.  The 
left  hand  of  a  colossal  Buddha  has 
been  found,  the  figure  of  which  must 
have  been  24  ft.  high.  The  most 
remarkable  piece  of  sculpture  is  that 
of  a  female,  rather  more  than  half 
life  size,  whose  attitude,  and  the 
position  of  whose  hands  resembles 
those  of  the  famous  Venus  of  the 
Capitol.  Cunningham  says  it  is  one 
of  the  best  specimens  of  unaided 
Indian  Art. 

In  the  Chaubarah  mounds,  1^  m.  to 
the  S.W.  of  the  city,  measuring  from 
the  gateway  of  the  Katra,  was  found 
a  golden  casket,  now  in  the  possession 
of  Mr.  F.  S.  Growse.i 

The  most  important  discoveries  at 
Muttra  have  been  made  by  Dr.  Fiihrer 
during  his  excavations  at  the  Kankall 
Tila  mound,  which  he  looks  upon  as 
the  site  of  the  Upagupta  monastery 
mentioned  by  Hiouen  Thsang.  The 
remains  of  one  Vaishnava  and  two  Jain 
temples,  and  a  Jain  stupa,  some  49  ft. 
8  in.  in  dia.,  have  been  brought  to 
light,  and  besides  some  hundreds  of 
most  valuable  sculptures,  stupa  rail- 
ings, panels,  etc.,  on  many  of  which 
are  inscriptions  dating  back  before 
the  time  of  Christ.  The  discover- 
ies prove  that  the  national  Indian 
arts  of  architecture  and  sculpture 
nourished  in  a  high  degree  at  Muttra, 
and  have  led  to  the  conclusion  that 
play-acting  was  practised  very  early  in 
the  city  of  the  gods.     All  the  objects 

,.i,*'o''  tl»e  many  other  discoveries  made  in 
omerent  mounds  near  Muttra  reference  must 
«S.o^?v  ^  Cunningham's  Report,  vol.  iii., 
where  they  are  aetailed  »t  ^reaneDgth. 


discovered  have  been  deposited  in  the 
Lucknow  Museum,^  where  they  can  be 
examined  by  visitors. 

[Mahaban  is  about  6  m.  S.E.  of 
Muttra,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Jumna, 
and  is  reached  by  a  good  road.  It  is  a 
very  ancient  town  and  place  of  pil- 
grimage, and  first  emerges  into  modem 
history  in  the  year  1017  A.D.,  when  it 
shared  the  h,te  of  Muttra,  and  was 
sacked  by  Mahmud  of  Ghazni.  The 
Hindu  prince  is  said,  when  the  fall  of 
the  town  became  inevitable,  to  have 
solemnly  slain  his  wife  and  children, 
and  then  committed  suicide.  In  1234 
a  contemporary  writer  mentions  Maha- 
ban as  one  of  the  gathering  places  of 
the  imperial  army  sent  by  Sham's-ud- 
din  against  Kalinjar.  It  is  incidentally 
referred  to  by  the  Emperor  Babar  in 
1526. 

The  country  round  about  it,  although 
now  bare  of  woods,  appears  to  have 
once  been  literally  Mahaban^  *'  a  great 
forest."  Even  as  late  as  1634,  the 
Emperor  Shah  Jehan  held  a  hunt  here, 
and  killed  four  tigers.  This  ancient 
woodland  country  fringing  the  sacred 
Jumna  is  the  scene  of  very  early  reli- 
^ous  legends.  In  Sanscrit  literature 
it  is  closely  associated  with  Goknl, 
about  a  mile  ofif,  overhanging  the 
Jumna.  Indeed,  the  scenes  of  the 
youthful  adventures  of  Krishna,  as- 
cribed in  the  Puranis  to  Gokul,  are 
actually  shown  at  Mahaban,  about  a 
mile  from  the  river.  Gokul  seems  to 
have  been  originally  the  common  name 
for  the  whole,  although  it  is  now  re- 
stricted to  what  must  have  been  the 
water-side  suburb  of  the  ancient  town. 

The  ruins  of  Mahaban  rise  as  a  hill  of 
brick  and  mud,  covering  about  30  acres, 
the  site  of  the  old  fort.  The  architect- 
ural remains  combine  Buddhist  and 
Hindu  forms. 

The  most  interesting  relic  at  Maha- 
ban is  the  so-caUed  Palace  of  Nanda» 
the  foster-father  of  the  changeling 
Krishna.  It  consists  of  a  covered 
court,  re-erected  by  tie  Mohammedans 
in  the  time  of  Aurangzib  from  ancient 
Hindu  and  Buddhist  materiali  to  8erv« 

1  See  illustrated  description  in  Proeeedi^n 
o/the  ArchoBol,  Dmt,  of  (hi  if,  W,  F. 


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185 


18  a  mosque,  and  is  divided  into  4  aisles 
3y  5  TOWS  of  16  pillars,  80  in  all,  from 
(rhich  it  takes  its  popular  name  of 
A88i  Khamba,  or  the  "  Eighty  Pillars." 
Many  of  the  capitals  are  curiously 
carved  with  grotesque  heads  and  squat 
figures.  Four  of  them  are  supposed 
to  represent  by  their  sculptures  the  four 
ages  of  the  world.  The  pillar  known 
as  the  Surya  Yug,  or  **  Golden  Age," 
I  is  covered  with  rich  and  beautiful 
I  earring ;  that  known  as  the  Dwapar 
I  Yug,  or  "  Second  Age  "  of  the  world  is 
adorned  with  almost  equal  profusion. 
The  Treta  Yug,  or  "Third  Age,"  is 
more  scantily  carved ;  while  the  Kali 
Yofc  or  present  "Iron  Age"  of  the 
world  is  represented  by  a  crude  un- 
sculptured  pillar. 

In  the  Palace  of  Nanda  are  laid  the 
scenes  of  Krishna's  infancy.  His 
cradle,  a  coarse  structure  covered  with 
red  calico  and  tinsel,  still  stands  in 
the  pillared  hall,  while  a  blue -black 
image  of  the  sacred  child  looks  out 
frcm  under  a  canopy  against  the  wall. 
The  chum  in  which  Krishna's  foster- 
inotiier  made  butter  for  the  household 
is  ^wn,  and  consists  of  a  long  bamboo 
sticking  out  of  a  carved  stone.  A  spot 
in  the  wall  is  pointed  out  as  the  place 
where  the  sportive  milkmaids  hid 
Krishna's  flute.  One  pillar  is  said  to 
have  been  polished  by  his  foster- 
mother's  hand,  as  she  leant  against  it 
when  churning,  and  others  have  been 
equally  polishwi  by  the  hands  of  genera- 
tions of  pilgrims. 

From  the  top  of  the  roof  there  is  a 
view  over  mounds  of  ruins,  with  the 
Jmnna  beyond  showing  its  waters,  at 
intervals,  amid  an  expanse  of  sand, 
high  grasses,  and  rugged  ravines. 
Mahab^  is  still  a  very  popular  place 
of  pilgrimage  among  the  Hindus.  Thou- 
sands of  Vishnu  worshippers,  with  yel- 
low-stained clothes,  yearly  visit  the 
scenes  of  the  infancy  of  the  child-cod. 
The  anniversary  of  Krishna's  birth  is 
celebrated  during  several  days  in  the 
month  of  Bhadon  (August)  by  a  vast 
concourse  of  people. 

The  riverside  village  of  Gokul,  where 
Vishnu  first  appeared  as  Krishna,  has 
few  relics  of  antiquity.  Its  shrines  and 
temples  are  quite  modem.     It  is  ap- 


proached, however,  by  a  lofty  and 
oeautiful  flight  of  steps  (ghat)  from  the 
river,  and  for  more  than  three  centuries 
it  has  been  the  headquarters  of  the 
Vallabhacharya  sect,  or  Gokulastha 
Gusains,  whose  founder  preached  here. 
Many  thousands  of  pilgrims,  chiefly 
from  Guzerat  and  Bombay,  yearly  re- 
sort to  this  centre  of  their  faith,  and 
have  built  numerous  temples  of  a 
rather  tasteless  type.] 

[From  Muttra  a  traveller  with  plenty 
of  time  may  make  an  expedition  to  Dig, 
or  Deeg,  a  town  in  the  territory  of  the 
Rajah  of  Bhurtpur,  24  m.  W.  from 
Muttra  by  a  good  road,  and  should  he 
be  going  S.,  he  might  rejoin  the  railway 
at  Bhurtpur,  22  m.  farther ;  but  he 
should  make  all  arrangements  for  the 
journey  before  leaving  Muttra.  At  the 
village  of  OoTardhaa,  about  14  m.,  is 
a  celebrated  hill,  which  was  upheld 
by  Krishna  on  one  finger  to  shelter 
the  cowherds  from  a  storm  excited  by 
Indra  as  a  test  of  Krishna's  divinity. 
Here,  on' the  rt,  is  the  burial-place  of 
the  Bhurtpur  Rajahs,  a  striking  group 
of  tombs,  temples,  and  ghats  buut  on 
the  margin  of  two  vast  tanks,  one  of 
which,  called  the  Munusa  Gunga,  is 
the  resort  of  thousands  of  pilgrims 
during  the  annual  autumn  fair.  The 
chief  chattris  are  those  of  Buldeo  Sing, 
and  of  Suraj  Mall,  the  founder  of  the 
dynasty,  and  his  wives  ;  also  of  Rand- 
hir  and  Bala  Diva  Sing.  Most  of  them 
show  good  specimens  of  carving.  Fer- 
gusson  says  of  one  of  the  temples,  built 
in  Akbar's  reign :  *  *  It  is  a  plain  edifice, 
135  ft.  long  bv  35  ft.  wide,  externally, 
and  both  in  plan  and  design  singularly 
like  those  Early  Romance  churches 
that  are  constantly  met  with  in  the  S. 
of  France,  belonging  to  11th  and  12th 
centuries." 

For  3  m.  before  reaching  Dig  the 
road  forms  a  sort  of  causeway  above  a 
very  low,  flat  country. 

At  Dig 30c  (or  Deeg)  the  chief  object 
of  interest  is  the  splendid  Palace,  or 
rather  group  of  palaces,  built  by  Suraj 
Mall  of  Bhurtpur.  Though  his  grand 
design  was  never  completed,  it  surpasses 
all  the  other  fortified  palaces  in  the 
Rajput  states  for  grandeur  of  conception 

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ROUTE  10.      AGRA  TO  RINDRABAN 


India 


and  beaulnr  of  detail  Fergusson  greatly 
admires  this  palace,  and  says :  '*  The 
glory  of  Deeg  consists  in  the  cornices, 
which  are  generally  double,  a  peculiarity 
not  seen  elsewhere,  and  which  for  extent 
of  shadow  and  richness  of  detail  surpass 
any  similar  ornaments  in  India,  either 
in  ancient  or  modem  buildings.  The 
lower  cornice  is  the  usual  sloping  en- 
tablature almost  universal  in  such 
buildings.  .  .  .  The  upper  cornice, 
which  washorizontal,  is  peculiar  to  Deeg, 
and  seems  designed  to  furnish  an  ex- 
tension of  the  flat  roof  which  in  Eastern 
palaces  is  usually  considered  the  best 
apartment  of  the  house ;  but  whether 
designed  for  this  or  any  other  purpose, 
it  adds  singularly  to  the  richness  of 
the  effect,  and  by  the  double  shadow 
affords  a  relief  and  character  seldom 
exceeded  even  in  the  East."  The  chief 
pavilions  are  the  Qopal  Bhawan  (where 
travellers  are  allowed  to  lodge,  and  from 
the  roof  of  which  there  is  a  fine  view), 
which  stands  E.  of  the  fine  Kachcha 
Tank  ;  the  Nand  Bhawan,  N.E.  of  this, 
a  fine  hall  20  ft.  high;  the  Snraj 
Bhawan,  S.,  88  ft.  long;  the  Harde 
Bhawan,  W.  ;  and  the  ElBhn  Bhawan, 
S.E.  All  these  are  highlv  decorated, 
and  between  and  around  them  are 
lovely  gardens.  Beyond  and  adjoining 
the  gardens  is  the  large  Bnp  Sangar 
Lake. 

The  W.  gate  of  the  Fort  (there  are 
two  gates)  is  i  m.  from  the  Gopal 
Bhawan  :  it  has  12  bastions,  and  a  ditch 
50  ft.  broad.  Beyond  this  is  a  natural 
mound,  about  70  ft.  high,  and  beyond 
that  a  building  which  serves  as  a  prison. 
The  walls  are  very  massive  and  lofty. 
There  are  72  bastions  in  alL  On  the 
N.W.  bastion,  about  80  ft.  high,  is  a 
very  long  cannon. 

Dig  is  celebrated  for  the  battle  fought 
on  the  18th  November  1804,  in  wmch 
General  Frazer  (see  Mill,  vol.  vi.  p.  593) 
defeated  Jeswant  Rao  Holkar's  army. 
The  British  took  87  pieces  of  ordnance 
in  this  battle,  and  lost  in  killed  and 
wounded  about  850  men.  The  remains 
of  Holkar's  army  took  shelter  in  the 
fort  of  Dig. 

On  the  1st  December  following.  Lord 
Lake  joined  the  army  before  Dig,  and 
immediately  commenced  operations  to 


reduce  that  town.  On  the  night  of  the 
23d  his  troops  captured  an  eminence 
which  commanded  the  city,  but  not 
without  considerable  loss,  llie  enemy, 
however,  evacuated  Dig  on  the  follow- 
ing day  and  the  fort  on  the  succeeding 
night,  and  fled  to  Bhurtpur.] 

6  m.  from  Muttra  is  Bintaiban  sta. 
(properly,  Vrindaban  literally,  a  forest 
of  tulsi  plants),  the  place  to  which 
Krishna  removed  from  Gokul. 

There  is  no  reason  to  believe  that 
Bindraban  was  ever  a  ^eat  seat  of 
Buddhism.  Its  most  ancient  temples, 
four  in  number,  date  only  from  the  16th 
cent.,  '*  while  the  space  now  occupied 
by  a  series  of  the  laigest  and  most 
magnificent  shrines  ever  erected  ii 
Upper  India  was  500  years  ago  an 
unclaimed  belt  of  woodland  (see 
Growse,  p.  174).  The  four  chief  temples 
are  those  of  Gobind  Deva,  Gopi  Nath, 
Jugal  Kishor,  and  Madan  Mohan.  Bin- 
draban is  famous  as  the  place  where 
Krishna  sported  with  the  Gopis  (milk- 
maids), and  stole  their  clothes  when 
they  were  bathing.  The  Jumna  bounds 
the  town  to  the  E.,  and  winds 
pleasantly  round  it.  At  the  entrance 
to  the  town,  on  the  left,  is  the  large 
red  temple,  datine  firom  1590,  sacred 
to  Oobind  Deva,  which  was  almost  de- 
stroyed by  Aurangzib,  but  has  been 
somewhat  restored  by  the  British 
Government.  **  It  is  one  of  the  most 
interesting  and  el^nt  temples  in 
India,  and  the  only  one,  perhaps, 
from  which  an  European  architect 
might  borrow  a  few  hints.  The 
temple  consists  of  a  cruciform  porch, 
•ntemally  nearly  quite  perfect,  tnongh 
externally  it  is  not  quite  clear  how  it 
was  intended  to  be  finished.  The  cell, 
too,  is  perfect  internally— used  for 
worship — ^but  the  sikra  is  gone,  possibly 
it  may  never  have  been  completed. 
Though  not  large,  its  dimensions  are 
respectable,  the  porch  measuring  117 
ft.  E.  and  W.  by  105  ft.  N.  and  S., 
and  is  covered  by  a  true  vault,  built 
with  radiating  arches — the  onij  iii- 
stance,  except  one,  known  to  exist  ii 
a  Hindu  temple  in  the  N.  of  India 
Over  the  four  arms  of  the  cross  the  vadb 
is  plain,  and  only  20  ft  span,  but  ik 
the  centre  it  expands  to  85  ft.,  and  Ii 

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ROUTE  11.       DELHI  TO  SIMLA 


187 


fflite  equal   in   design    to   the    best 

(othic  yaulting   known.      It  is  the 

crtemal  desi^  of  this  temple,  how- 

<Fer,  which  is  the  most  remarkable. 

"he  angles  are  accentuated  with  sin- 

jTilar    force    and    decision,    and    the 

tpenings,  which  are  more  than  suffi- 

;ient  for  that  climate,  are  picturesquely 

irranged  and  pleasingly  divided.     It 

is,  however,  the  combination  of  vertical 

withhorizontal lines,  covering  the  whole 

surface,  that  forms  the  great  merit  of 

the  design"  (Fergusson,  Arch.) 

E.  is  a  modern  Temple^  built  by  Seth 
Badha  Krishna  and  Seth  Govind  JDas 
in  the  Dravidian  style.  Europeans  are 
not  allowed  to  enter.  The  temple  con- 
sists of  a  vast  enclosing  wall,  with  three 
gopuras,  which  are  80  to  90  ft.  high, 
while  the  gates  are  about  56  ft.  Above 
the  "W.  gate  is  a  terrace,  commanding 
a  view  of  the  temple. 

This  temple  is  dedicated  to  Shri 
Ranga,  a  name  of  Vishnu  ;  and  figures 
of  Gamda,  the  man-bird  of  ViSinu, 
are  very  conspicuous.  In  the  great 
court  are  two  white  marble  pavilions, 
one  E.  and  one  W.  of  the  tank  ;  and  a 
stone  pavilion  with  a  flat  roof,  sup- 
ported by  sixteen  pillars,  opposite  the 
E.  gopura. 

At  the  back  of  a  temple  which  is 
of  red  stone  (repaired  in  1877  by  the 
Brit.  Gov.),  and  adjoining  it  on  the 
W.,  are,  at  two  corners,  two  other 
temples  which  resemble  each  other. 
Thwe  is  a  new  temple  adjoining  this 
to  the  W.,  built  by  a  Bengali  Babu. 
It  IB  not  tasteful,  but  has  a  finely- 
carred  door. 

The  Ma4laB  Mohan  Temple  stands 
above  a  ghat  on  a  branch  of  the  river. 
Uider  two  fine  trees,  a  Metis  indica  and 
a  Naudea  orientalis,  is  a  pavilion,  in 
which  many  cobras'  heads  are  repre- 
seoted.  Shiva  is  said  to  have  struck 
peri  with  a  stick  here,  when  she 
jumped  o£f  this  ghat,  and  made  it  a 
^aee  for  curing  snake  bites.  There  is 
here  a  Salagram  (a  species  of  Ammonite 
wcnrdiipped  as  a  type  of  Vishnu),  with 
two  footprints,  2Jin.  long.  This  temple 
it  85  ft.  high,  and  is  in  the  shape  of  a 


The  Temple  of  €h>pi  Nath  is  thought 
liy  Mr.  Growse  to  be  the  earliest  of  the 


series.  It  was  built  by  Raesil  Ji,  who 
distinguished  himself  under  Akbar. 
It  resembles  that  of  Madan  Mohan, 
but  is  in  a  ruinous  condition.  Its 
special  feature  is  an  arcade  of  three 
bracket  arches. 

The  Temple  of  Jngal  Eishor  is  at 
the  lower  end  of  the  town,  near  the 
Eesi  Ghat.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
built  by  Nou-Earan,  a  Chauhan  chief, 
in  1627  A.D.  The  choir  has  pierced 
tracery  in  the  head  of  the  arcn,  and 
above  it  a  representation  of  Erishna 
supporting  the  hill  of  Govardhan. 

The  Temple  of  Badha  Ballabh.— 
The  shrine  was  demolished  by  Aurang- 
zeb.    The  ruins  are  fine. 


KOUTE  11 
Dblhi  to  Umealla,  Ealka,  and 

Simla 
There  are  two  railway  routes  from 
Delhi  to  Uniballa. 

(a)  The  direct  line  on  the  right  or 
W.  bank  of  the  Jumna  river  through 
Paniput  and  Eurnal,  122  m. 

(b)  The  line  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
river,  crossing  it  twice,  and  passing 
through  Ghaziabad,  Meerut,  and  Sa- 
haranpur,  162  m. 

Leaving  the  central  station  at  Delhi, 
the  railway  proceeds  over  a  vast  plain  to 

54  m.  Panipnt  sta.,  D.B.  Pop. 
27, 547.  The  modern  town  stands  near 
the  old  bank  of  the  Jumna,  upon  a  high 
mound  consisting  of  the  d^bns  of  earlier 
buildings.  In  the  centre  the  streets  are 
well  paved,  but  the  outskirts  are  low  and 
squalid.  There  are  the  usual  civil  offices. 
The  town  is  of  very  great  antiquity,  being 
one  of  the  places  called  j^ofe,  ovprasthasy 
demanded  of  Duryodhana  by  Yudish- 
thira,  about  1100  B.o.  It  is  famous 
for  being  the  place  where  three  of  the 
most  decisive  battles  in  India  have 
been  fought ;  but  the  silent  plain  tells 
no  tale,  and  shows  no  sign  of  the  events 
that  have  happened  on  it. 

Here  on  the  21st  April  1526 
Babar  encountered  Ibrahim  Lodi. 
On  the  night  before  the  battle  Babar 
had  sent  out  5000  men  to  make  a 
night   attack  on    the  Afghan  army. 

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188 


ROUTE  11.       DELHI  TO  SIMLA 


Indii 


but  this  had  failed,  owing  to  a 
delay  on  the  part  of  the  attacking 
force,  which  did  not  reach  the  enemy  s 
camp  tiU  dawn.  With  the  first  stretUiLS 
of  light  next  day  the  Mogul  pickets 
reported  that  the  Afghans  were  ad- 
vancing in  battle  array.  Babar  im- 
mediately prepared  for  action,  and 
appointed  commanders  to  each  divi- 
sion. On  the  ri^ht  and  left  of  the 
whole  line  he  stationed  strong  flanking 
parties  of  Moguls,  who,  when  ordered, 
were  to  wheel  round,  and  take  the 
enemy  in  flank  and  rear.  When  the 
Afghans  arrived  at  the  Mogul  lines 
they  hesitated  for  a  moment,  and 
Babar  availed  himself  of  their  halting 
to  attack  them,  at  the  same  time 
sending  his  flanking  parties,  to  wheel 
round  and  charge  them  in  the  rear. 
Babar's  left  wing  was  roughly  handled, 
but  he  supported  it  by  a  strong  de- 
tachment from  the  centre,  and  the 
Afghans  in  the  end  were  driven  back. 

On  the  right  too  the  battle  was  ob- 
stinately contested.  Babar*s  artillery, 
however,  was  very  effective,  and  at 
last  the  Afghans  fell  into  confusion. 
They  maintained  the  battle  till  noon, 
when  they  gave  way  in  all  directions. 
The  rest  was  mere  pursuit  and  slaughter. 
According  to  Mogul  accounts,  15,000 
Afghans  were  left  dead  on  the  field  of 
battle,  and  those  who  fled  from  the 
field  were  chased  as  far  as  Agra.  The 
body  of  Ibrahim  Lodi  was  found  the 
same  afternoon  with  6000  or  6000  of 
his  soldiers  lyin^  in  heaps  around  him. 
Babar  reached  Delhi  on  the  third  day 
after  the  battle,  and  on  the  Friday 
following  his  name  as  Epmeror  was 
read  in  the  public  prayers  at  the 
Grand  Mosque. 

The  Second  great  Battle  was  fought 
in  the  latter  part  of  1556  A.D.,  when 
the  youthful  Akbar,  who  had  just  suc- 
ceeded his  father  the  Emperor  Huma- 
yun,  defeated  Himu,  the  general  of 
Sultan  Muhammad  Shah  'Adil,  nephew 
of  Sher  Shah.  Himu  had  50,000 
cavalry,  and  500  elephants,  besides 
infantry  and  guns;  but  afte.  a  well- 
contested  battle  he  was  wounded  in 
the  eye  by  an  arrow,  taken  prisoner, 
and  put  to  death.  This  battle  was 
decisive  of  the  fate  of  the    Afghan 


dynasty  called  the  Sur,  and  estabUshei 
the  fortunes  of  the  House  of  Timur. 

The  Third  Battle  took  place  on  thi 
7th  of  January  1761  A.D.,  when  th( 
whole  strength  of  the  Marathas  wai 
crushed  with  terrible  slaughter  V 
Ahmad  Shah  Durani.  All  the  Ma 
ratha  chieftains  of  not€,  Ho] 
Sindia,  the  Gaekwar,  the  Peshwa'i 
cousin  and  son,  were  present  wil 
their  forces.  The  Maratha  army  is 
said  to  have  amounted  to  15,000  in- 
fantry, 55,000  cavalry,  200  guns,  and 
Pindaris  and  camp-followers,  number- 
ing 200,000  men.  The  Afghan  force 
consisted  of  38,000  infantry,  42,000 
cavalry,  and  70  guns,  besides  numerom 
irregulars ;  but  the  Marathas  had  al- 
lowed themselves  to  be  cooped  up  in 
their  camp  for  many  days.  They  we« 
starving,  and  on  the  morning  of  tbe 
battle  Siey  marched  out  with  the  ends 
of  their  turbans  loose,  their  heads  and 
faces  anointed  with  turmeric,  and  witii 
every  other  sign  of  despair.  Seodashec 
Rao,  the  cousin  and  generalissimo  of 
the  Peshwa,  with  Wishwas  Rao,  the 
Peshwa's  eldest  son,  and  Jeawant  Bao 
Powar,  were  opposite  the  Afghm 
Grand  Yazir.  The  great  standard  oi 
the  Maratha  nation,  the  Bhagm 
Jhtmda,  floated  in  the  Maratha  van,  ad 
there  were  three  Jaripatkas,  or  Grand 
Ensigns,  of  the  Peshwa  in  tlxe  field. 

The  Marathas  made  a  tremendod 
charge  full  on  the  Afghan  centreJ 
and  broke  through  10,000  cavali) 
under  the  Vazir,  which  unwisely  re 
ceived  them  without  advancing. 
The  dust  and  confusion  were  so  greil 
that  the  combatants  could  only  dis 
tinguish  each  other  by  the  war-cry 
The  Vazir  Shah  Wali  Khan,  who  wai 
in  full  armour,  threw  himself  firom  hi 
horse  to  rally  his  men,  but  most  o 
the  Afghans  gave  way. 

Ibrahim  Khan  Gardi,  who  com 
manded  the  Maratha  artillery,  brok 
the  Kohillas,  who  formed  the  right  wii|| 
of  the  Mohammedan  army,  and  kille 
or  wounded  8000  of  them.  Ahmai 
Shah  now  evinced  his  generalship! 
he  sent  his  persoi^al  guards  to  rally  ta 
fugitives,  and  ordered  up  his  reserves i 
support  the  Vazir.  In  this  protra<^ 
and  close  struggle  the  physical  strengfj 

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ROtTTE  11.       KURNAL — THANESAR 


18& 


<f  the  Afghans  was  an  overmatch  for 
he  slighter  frames  of  the  Hindus. 

A  little  after  2  p.m.  Wishwas  Rao 
ras  mortally  wounded,  and  Seo- 
tasheo  Rao,  after  sending  a  secret 
nessage  to  Holkar,  charged  into  the 
hickest  of  the  fight  and  disappeared. 
iVhatever  the  message  to  Holkar  was, 
it  proved  instantaneously  fatal,  for  he 
went  off  and  was  followed  by  the 
Gaekwar.  The  Marathas  then  fled ; 
thousands  were  cut  down,  and  vast 
numbers  were  destroyed  in  the  ditch 
of  their  entrenchment.  The  village 
of  Paniput  was  crowded  with  men, 
women,  and  children,  to  whom  the 
Afghans  showed  no  mercy.  They  took 
the  women  and  children  as  slaves,  and 
after  ranging  the  men  in  lines,  amused 
themselves  with  cutting  off  their  heads. 

76  m.  Eumal  sta.,  D.B.  Pop. 
23,000.  This  town  is  traditionally  of 
ereat  antiquity,  being  said  to  have  been 
founded  by  Rajah  Kama,  champion  of 
the  Eauravas,  in  the  great  war  of  the 
Mahabharata.  It  was  seized  by  the 
Rajas  of  Jind  in  the  middle  of  the  18th 
centui7,and  wrested  from  them  in  1795 
by  the  adventurer  George  Thomas.  It 
was  conferred  bv  Lord  Lake  in  1803 
upon  Nawab  Munammad  Ehan,  a  Man- 
cm  Pathan.  A  British  cantonment  was 
mamtained  here  until  1841,  when  it  Was 
alandoned,  probably  owing  to  the  un- 
healthiness  of  the  site,  as  the  W.  Jumna 
Canal,  passing  the  city,  intercepts  the 
dninage  and  causes  malarious  fever.  A 
will  12  ft.  high  encloses  the  town.  The 
streets  are  narrow  and  crooked,  and  the 
water  is  impure.  Jacquemont  speaks  of 
this  town  as  "  an  infamous  sink,  a  heap 
of  every  sort  of  uncleanliness. "  He 
ajds;  "I  have  seen  nothing  so  bad  in 
Iidia,  and  it  is  fair  to  mention  that 
amon^  the  natives  its  filth  was  pro- 
verbid  It  has,  however,  a  handsome 
mufue  overtopping  the  wall,  which  is 
worth  a  visit.  A  government  Stud 
fann  for  horse  breeding  has  been 
titoblished  in  the  old  barracks.  There 
lifidr  small  game  shootine. 

Komal  is  famous  as  bemg  the  place 
wktm  Nadir  Shah  defeated  the  Mogul 
Smperor  Muhammad  Shah  in  1739. 
fii  had  surrounded  his  camp  with 
VrtKBchments,  which  appeared  so  for- 


midable to  Nadir  that  he  would  not 
permit  his  soldiers  to  attack  them. 
The  battle  lasted  two  hours,  20,000  of 
the  Indian  soldiers  were  killed,  and  a 
much  greater  number  taken  prisoners. 
An  immense  treasure,  a  number  of  ele- 
phants, part  of  the  artillery  of  the 
emperor,  and  rich  spoils  of  every  de- 
scription fell  into  Nadir's  hands.  The 
Persian  loss  is  variously  stated  at  from 
500  to  2500  killed.  The  next  dav 
Muhammad  Shah  surrendered  himself 
to  Nadir,  who  marched  to  Delhi,  and 
after  a  massacre  in  the  streets  and  a 
58  days'  sack  returned  to  Persia  with  a 
booty  estimated  at  £32,000,000. 

97  m.  Thanesar,  D.B.  As  many  as 
100,000  persons  have  been  known  to 
assemble  here  on  the  occasion  of  an 
eclipse  of  the  moon,  when  it  is  believed 
that  the  waters  of  all  other  tanks  visit 
the  one  here,  so  that  he  who  bathes  in 
it  at  the  moment  of  eclipse  obtains  the 
additional  merit  of  bathing  in  all  the 
others.  The  Tank  is  about  1  m.  from 
the  rly.  sta.  (To  reach  it,  it  is  necessary 
to  pass  through  part  of  the  town,  see 
below.)  It  is  an  oblong  sheet  of  water 
3546  ft.  in  length,  and  is  not  only  the 
centre  of  attraction  to  pilgrims,  but 
also  the  haunt  of  innumerable  wild- 
fowl from  the  pelican  to  the  snipe.  It 
is  surrounded  by  temples  in  every  stage 
of  decay,  overshadowed  by  great  trees, 
and  flights  of  dilapidated  steps  lead 
down  to  the  water  on  all  sides.  On 
the  W.  a  causeway  stretches  out  to  an 
island  where,  partly  hidden  by  trees, 
the  most  perfect  of  the  temples  stands. 
The  ruins  of  this  causeway  extend 
farther  S.  to  the  remains  of  other 
temples.  Around  the  tank  for  many 
miles  is  holy  ground,  and  popular  belief 
declares  the  holy  places  connected  with 
the  Pandovas  and  Kauravas  and  other 
heroes  to  be  360  in  number. 

The  Town  is  about  J  m.  N.  of  the 
tank,  and  beyond  it  are  extensive  re- 
mains of  the  Mohammedan  Fort.  The 
chief  building  of  interest,  and  that  in 
best  repair,  is  the  white-domed  Tomb  of 
Shaik  Chihli  It  is  an  octagon  ot 
drab-coloured  marble,  lighted  by  trellis- 
work  windows  of  fine  design.  It  stands 
upon  a  small  octagonal  platform  in  the 
centre  of  a  larger  onen^a  square — sur- 

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ROUTE  11.      DELHI  TO  SIMLA 


IndiA 


U 


rounded  by  cupolas.  In  the  centre  of 
the  W.  side  is  a  small  pavilion  with 
deep  eaves.     It  also  forms  a  tomb. 

S.W.  from  here,  within  a  stone's 
throw,  is  a  small  mosque  of  red  sand- 
stone (the  Lai  Mnsjid),  supported  on  8 
columns.  The  carving  on  the  domes  and 
elsewhere  is  very  beautiful  and  resembles 
that  at  Fatehpur-SikrL  Some  of  the 
trees  in  the  neighbourhood  are  very 
fine.  Between  this  and  Delhi — round 
about  Paniput — ^the  rly.  passes  through 
the  country  which  from  the  earliest 
times  formed  the  battle-field  of  India, 
and  the  scene  where,  over  and  over 
again,  her  fate  has  been  decided. 

123  m.  Umballa  Cantonment  junc. 
sta.  UmballaCityandCiYUStationsOc 
are  5  m.  farther  W.  (total  pop.  79,000). 
The  important  cantonments  were  formed 
in  1843  :  they  cover  7220  acres,  and  are 
laid  out  with  good  roads  and  fine  trees. 
The  centre  is  occupied  by  the  bungalows 
of  the  residents,  and  to  the  W.  are  the 
military  lines,  and  the  whole  is  sur- 
rounded by  extensive  Maidans. 

The  Bace-cotme  is  on  the  E.  Maidan, 
Paget  Park,  a  favourite  resort,  is  on  the 
N.  There  are  several  good  European 
shops  in  the  town,  which  is  a  second- 
class  municipal  town,  and  the  capital 
of  a  district. 

The  Church,  which  is  in  the  Grothic 
style,  was  consecrated  in  1857,  and  is 
one  of  the  finest,  if  not  the  finest,  in 
India.  There  is  also  a  Presbyterian 
Church,  a  Hospital,  Charitable  Dispen- 
sary, and  a  Leper  Asylum. 

Umballa  and  its  neighbourhood  are 
intimately  connected  with  the  earliest 
dawn  of  Indian  history.  The  strip  of 
country  included  between  the  Saras- 
wati  and  Drishadvati  (Sarasouti  and 
Ghuggar)  is  "the  Holy  Land"  of  the 
Hindu  faith,  the  first  permanent  home 
of  the  Aryans  in  India,  and  the  spot  in 
which  their  religion  took  shape.  Hence 
the  sanctity,  even  in  modem  times,  of 
the  waters  of  the  Sarasouti,  to  which  wor- 
shippers flock  from  all  parts  of  India. 

35  m.  (from  Umballa)  Kalka  sta.,  3^ 
D.B.  (R.),  the  terminus  of  the  railway 
at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  2400  ft.  above 
sea-level.  Passengers  for  Kasauli  and 
Simla  here  separate* 


(1)  For  Kasauliy  travellers  take  a 
jhampan  or  pony  and  follow  the  old 
Simla  road  (a  bridle-path). 

9  m.  Kasauli.  3^  This  is  a  canton- 
ment and  convalescent  dep6t  on  the 
crest  of  a  hill  overlooking  the  Ealka 
Valley,  and  6322  ft.  above  sea-level. 
The  views  from  Kasauli  are  very 
grand  and  extensive. 

This  road  continues  on  through 
Jutogh  (see  below)  to  Simla  (41  m.  from 
Ealka). 

[3  m.  off  across  a  valley  the  road  rises 
to  Sanawar,  which,  however,  is  not 
quite  so  high  as  Kasauli 

Here  is  the  Lawrence  Military  Asy- 
lum. From  it  may  be  seen  Dugsbai 
and  Sabathu,  and  in  the  far  distance 
Simla.  The  ground  was  made  over  toj 
the  Asylum  in  1858,  in  fulfilment  of 
the  wish  of  Sir  H.  Lawrence.  There 
are  separate  barracks  for  boys,  girls, 
and  infants,  and  a  chapel.  Children 
of  pure  European  parentage  take  pre- 
cedence as  candidates  for  admission,  as 
more  likely  to  suffer  from  the  climate 
of  the  plains,  except  in  the  case  of 
orphans,  who  have  the  preference  over 
all  others.  The  boys  qualify  for  the 
service  of  Government  in  various  de- 
partments. A  local  committee  manages 
the  College.] 

(2)  The  tonga-road  from  Kalka  to 
Simla  runs  E.  of  the  old  road;  thft 
stages  are  as  follows : — 


Name  of  Stage. 
Ealka  to  Dharmpur 
Dharmpur  to  Solon 
Solon  to  Keri  Ghat 
Keri  Ghat  to  Simla 

Total    . 


Distance. 
.    15  mfles. 
.    12     » 
.     15      „ 
.     15      „ 

.    57  miles. 

The  road  to  Dharmpur  is  narrow. 
[From  Dharmpur  a  road  strikes  left  to 
(10  m.)  Sabathn,  which  lies  between 
the  two  roads,  and  is  a  consnicuous 
object  from  Simla.]  After  leaving 
Dharmpur,  there  is  an  excellent  road 
to  the  military  station  of  Solon,  ^ 
where  is  a  neat  D.B.  on  the  E.  The 
last  3  m.  is  a  very  sharp  descent.  From 
Solon  it  is  one  long  ascent  round  pro- 
jecting rocks :  the  tongas  go  fast,  the 
drivers  blowing  their  horns,  which  is 
necessary,  as  strings  of  mules  and  carts 
are  continually  passed.     For  the  last 

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ROUTE  11.      SIMLA 


191 


I  winds  along  the  E.  side 

Ue^s,  and  in  places  there  are 

i  which  gradually  increase  in 

'"   the   Eeri  Ghat  D.6.  is 

im  building  is  perched  over 

«nt  of  1600  or  2000  ft.    The 

kes  about  7  hrs.  by  tonga. 

om  the  plains  the  cold  of  the 

J  rather  trying. 

.  3^    The  land  upon  which 
ads    was    retained    by   the 
Dvemment  as  a  sanitarium  at 
f  the  Gurkha  War  in  1816-16, 
of  the  surrounding  district 
to  the  natives.     Lieut. 
,   the    first   residence,   a 
^^^  wooden    cottage,    in   1819. 
-"^  »sor,  Lieut  Kennedy,  in  1822 
_/lg^  mnanent  house.   OtneroflScers 
'  ^  the  example,  and  in  1826  Simla 
i  settlement.     In  1829  Lord 
spent  the  summer  there,  and 
t  date  the  sanitarium  grew 
favour   with    Europeans, 
government   of  Sir  John 
in    1864,   Simla   has  been 
&er    capital  for  India.      As 
ihe  hot  weather  sets  in,  the 
Mit  officers  and  Viceroy  quit 
For  Simla,  which  is  deserted  in 
r.    The  European  residences 
y  r"'  fer  a  ridge  in  a  crescent  shape, 
-^     18  from  W.  to  E.  for  a  distance 
\m. 

toot  of  this  ridge  is  a  precipi- 

pt,  in  some  places  a  complete 

ff  about  1000  ft.,  leading  down 

,  which  is  watered  by  several 

B   the    Gumbhar   and    the 

which  are  tw^o  waterfalls. 

there  are  the  Pahar,  the 

and  the  Sarsa  streams. 

bazaar  road  cuts  off  one 

from  another.     The  E. 

led  Chota  Simla,  the  W.  is 

The  ridge  running  N,, 

with  oaks  and  rhododen- 

led  Elysium.      On  the 

the  station  is  Jutoghf  a 

;  on  the  top  of  a  lofty 

\\    m.   to  the   E. 

Prospect   HUl,  7140  ft. 

which  is  the  W.  point 

nt  of  which   we   nave 

to  the  £.  of  this  hill  is 


Peterhoff,  the  old  residence  of  the 
Viceroy,  with  Observatory  Hill  and 
the  fine  OovemmerU  House  on  it  3 
furlongs  to  the  W. 

The  United  Sermee  Cflub  lies  600 
ft.  due  S.  of  Combermere  Bridge 
on  the  slopes  of  Jako,  a  hill  8048  ft. 
above  sea -level.  The  Bandstand  is  a 
little  way  to  the  S.  of  the  Club ;  and 
the  Mayo  Orphanage  is  at  the  N.E. 
comer  of  Jako. 

The  Public  Institntioiui  at  Simla 
comprise  the  Bishop  Cotton  School, 
the  Punjab  Girls'  School,  the  Mayo 
Orphanage,  a  Roman  Catholic  Con- 
vent, and  a  handsome  Town  Hall, 
besides  the  QoTenundnt  Offices.  These 
occupy  several  fine  blocks  of  building. 
In  one  are  the  offices  of  the  Accountant- 
General,  the  Public  Works  Secretariat, 
the  offices  of  the  Executive  Engineer, 
the  Superintendent  of  Works,  the 
Director-General  of  Railways.  Another 
building  contains  the  Legislative  and 
Home  Departments,  the  office  of  the 
Surgeon-General  of  H.M.  Forces,  the 
Commissariat  Department.  Another 
block  is  occupied  by  the  Judge  Advo- 
cate-General's office,  the  office  of  H.  E. 
the  Commander-in-Chief,  the  Quarter- 
master-General's office,  the  Intelligence 
Branch,  and  the  Revenue  and  Agricul- 
tural Departments.  Above  are  the 
Adjutant-Greneral's  office,  the  Meteoro- 
logical Department,  the  Survey  of 
India,  and  many  other  offices.  About  2 
m.  from  these  buildings  is  the  Foreign 
Office.  Not  far  from  it  is  the  General 
Post-Office  and  the  Telegraph  Office. 
In  the  Court  House  are  the  various  law 
offices.  The  Town  Hall  contains  the 
Municipal  Offices  and  the  Station 
Library.  This  building  also  has  a 
theatre,  a  concert -room,  and  a  fine 
ballroom.  A  few  minutes'  walk  from 
the  Town  Hall  is 

Christ  Church  at  the  foot  of  Jako  Hill. 

The  scenery  at  Simla  is  of  peculiar 
beauty  ;  it  presents  a  series  of  magni- 
ficent views,  embracing  on  the  S.  the 
Umballa  Plains  with  the  Sabathu  and 
Kasauli  HiUs  in  the  foreground,  and 
the  massive  block  of  the  Chor,  a  little 
to  the  E.  ;  while  just  below  the 
spectator's  feet  a  series  of  huge  ravines 
lead  down  into  the  deep  valleys  which 

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192 


ROUTE  11.      DtetHI  TO  SIMLA 


InMa 


score  the  motmtain  sides.  Northwards 
the  eye  wanders  over  a  network  of 
confused  chains,  rising  range  aboTe 
range,  and  crowned  in  the  distance  by 
a  crescent  of  snowy  peaks  standing  out 
in  bold  relief  against  the  clear  back- 
ground of  the  sky.  The  rides  and 
walks  will  furnish  endless  amusement 
to  the  visitor,  who,  however,  will  do 
well  to  be  cautious,  particularly  as 
regards  the  animal  he  mounts.  A 
number  of  people  have  been  killed  by 
falling  over  precipices  at  this  station, 
and  many  more  have  had  narrow 
escapes  of  their  lives. 

Anaadald  is  a  fairly  extensive  plain, 
in  a  vaUey  1200  ft.  below  the  ridge 
on  the  N.W.  of  the  station.  The 
Race-cowrse  surrounds  it,  and  it  con- 
tains the  Ptiblic  Gardens,  the  Cricket 
Groimd,  and  some  very  fine  trees.  This 
is 'the  spot  where  all  open-air  meetings 
are  held.  West  again  of  Anandale  is  the 
Glen,  a  charming  wooded  valley  with 
some  grassy  slopes  and  fine  timber.  The 
dripping  rock  snould  be  looked  for  in  it. 

The  distances  at  Simla,  taken  from 
Christ  Church,  are — Round  Jako,  5 
m.  ;  Boileaugaiy,  2|  m.  ;  to  the  end 
of  Chota  Simla,  2  m. 


From  Simla  the  traveller  may  make 
an  expedition  to,  4  m.,  Mnshobra,  a 
pleasant  place  to  spend  a  few  days, 
and  to 

Narkanda  and  Kotgarh,  D.B.  There 
he  will  be  rewarded  by  seeing  some 
grand  scenery.  The  stages  are  as 
follows : — 


Names  of  Stages. 

M. 

Above  Sea-lereL 

Mahasu  fh)ra  Simla 

10 

8200  ft. 

Phagu     . 

16 

8200,, 

Theog     . 

22 

7700,, 

Matteana 

33 

7720  „ 

Narkanda       .       . 

45 

9000,, 

Kotgarti . 

54f 

6600,, 

J 

At  Phagu,  D.B.,  iu  the  territory 
of  the  Rana  of  Kotah,  is  a  magnificent 
view  of  the  snowy  range. 

10  m.  E.  of  Theoi^  are  the  Kot 
Khai  iron-mines. 

Narkanda,  D.B.,  splendid  view. 

53}  m.  Kotgarh. 

[Soltanpur,  the  old  residence  of  the 
Sultans  of  Kulla,  In  the  KuUa  VaUej,  Is 
approached  by  way  of  Simla ;  it  is  a  long  Mfl 
tedious  expedition,  but  the  scenery  cannot  l» 
surpassed  for  grandeur,  and  the  Deodar 
Forests  abound  in  pheasants  and  other  game. 
Farther  up  amongst  the  high  peaks  sportnnen 
will  find  ibex  and  bears.] 


MABGHBS  FROM  SIMLA  TO  SULTANPUR  (KULLU). 


^ 

Height 

Dis- 
tance. 

1 

From. 

To. 

above 
Sea- 

Accommodation. 

Supplies. 

Country. 

Q 

leveL 

1 

feet. 

ms. 

Simla          Theog 
Theog         Mathiana 

7000 

Vil.  good  bungalow 

Abundant 

Good  road 

18 

^1 

7600 

»1                M                         >' 

)t 

ru     "_. 

Mathiana 

Narkanda 

9600 

t>                >>                         »» 

" 

Fine  view, 
good  road. 

11 

Narkanda 

Kamaseu 

„                „ 

" 

AUdown 
hill. 

8 

Kamaseu 

Dalarsh 

„    no  bungalow 

Limited 

Cross  Sut- 
1^.  Ascent 
and  des- 
cent. 

11 

Dalarsh 

Chawi 

„    small  bungalow 

" 

ridge. 

' 

Chawi 

Kot 

><       i>           i> 

•» 

Cross  val- 
ley, steep 
ascent  and 

9 

'? 

descent. 

1 

Kot 

Jeebhi 

»>             >»                    •! 

'» 

Cross 
Jaloripass 
a0,600ft.) 

11 

Jeebhi 

Manglaor 

Laiji 
Bajaora 

M                l»     ■                   l< 

,, 

8 

Manglaor 
VLaijf 

6718 

» 

11 

Bigaora 

Snltanpur 

4048 

„    good  bungalow 

Abundant 

9 

I 


ROUTE  11  A.      SARDHANA 


193 


ROUTE  llA 
Delhi  to  Umballa  by  the  E.  bank 
OF  Jumna  River— Meerut,  Sar- 

DHANA  AND  SaHARANPORE,  for  DeH- 

RA  Dun  and  Mussourie. 

13  m.  Qhariabadjupc.  sta.  :^  From 
:hi8  point  the  E.  I.  Rly.  runs  S.E.  to 
Allahabad  and  Calcutta. 

41  m.  Heerut  city  sta. 

44  m.  Mbebut  Cantonment  sta.  3^ 
(The  N.W,  Rly.  enters  the  cantonment 
at  the  S.W.)  The  Oantonment  of 
Meemt  is  the  headquarters  of  a  division 
of  the  army,  and  is  noteworthy  from 
its  size  and  importance,  and  because 
the  Mutiny  of  the  Bengal  Army  inUpper 
India  began  there.  It  was  held  all 
through  the  Mutiny  by  a  few  British 
troops,  who  kept  order  in  the  surround- 
ing district  Meerut  is  an  ancient  city 
half-way  between  the  Ganges  and 
Jnmna,  and  was  raised  from  decay  by 
British  patronage.  It  is  an  extensive 
station,  measuring  3^  m.  from  the  rail- 
way on  the  W.,  to  the  Police  Lines  on 
the  extreme  E.,  traversed  by  the  Mall 
Road,  one  of  the  finest  and  broadest 
roads  in  India,  and  3  m.  from  where 
the  Bulandshahar  Road,  on  the  S., 
leaves  the  sta.,  to  the  end  of  Church 
Street.  The  European  Cavalry  Bar- 
racks are  of  remarkable  extent. 

St.  John's  Church,  completed  1821, 
in  the  Italian  style,  was  the  first  church 
erected  in  the  Upper  Provinces  of  India. 
There  are  tablets  m  it  to  a  great  number 
of  officers  who  have  been  killed  in 
action  or  have  died  in  Upper  India. 

The  Cttnetery,  which  lies  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  church,  is  vast,  and 
divided  into  two  parts — the  new  being 
marked  by  crosses  and  English  tombs, 
the  old  by  cupolas  and  pyramids.  The 
pilhir,  50  ft.  high,  was  erected  to  Sir 
K  Rollo  Gillespie,  who  subdued  the 
Mutiny  at  Vellore. 

The  Central  Jail,  completed  in 
1819,  is  capable  of  holding  4600 
prisoners.  The  District  Jail  is  a  little 
ferther  to  the  E. 

Temples,  etc— The  Sv/rc^  Kund, 
commonly  called  by  Europeans  the 
"Monkey  Tank,"  is  to  the  W.  of  the 
Jaii  "  It  was  constructed  by  Jo>.dhir 
Mull,  a  wealthy  merchant  of  Lawar,  ' 
[India] 


in  1714.  There  are  numerous  small 
temples,  dharmsalas,  and  sati  pillars 
on  its  banks,  but  none  of  any  note." 
The  Baleshwar  Nath  Temple  is  the 
oldest  in  the  district,  and  dates  from 
before  the  Moslem  invasion.  The 
Dargahj  in  the  Nau  Chandi  Mahallah, 
is  said  to  have  been  built  by  Kutbu- 
din,  from  the  remains  of  a  Hindu 
temple  which  he  pulled  down.  The 
Dargah  of  Shah  Fir  is  a  fine  structure 
of  red  sandstone,  erected  about  1620 
A.D.  by  Nur  Jehau,  in  memory  of  a 
pious  fakir  of  that  name.  The  Jumma 
Musjid  is  said  to  have  been  built  in 
1019  by  Hasan  Mahdi,  Vazir  of  Mah- 
mud  Uhaznavi,  and  was  repaired  by 
Humayun.  The  Makharah  of  Salar 
Masaud  Gliazi  is  attributed  to  Kutbu- 
din  Aibak  in  1191.  There  are  two 
large  Imamharahs,  one  near  the  Eam- 
bou  Gate,  and  another  in  the  Zabidi 
Mahallah,  and  an  'Idgahy  on  the  Delhi 
Road,  built  in  1600.  There  is  a  mosque 
built  by  Nawab  Khairandesh  Khan  in 
the  Saraiganj.  And  besides  those  already 
mentioned,  there  are  62  mosques  and 
60  temples  in  the  city,  none  of  which, 
however,  deserve  any  particular  notice. 

Before  reaching  Sarahana  the  Ganges 
Canal,  made  by  Sir  Proby  Cautley,  is 
crossed. 

51  m.  Sardhana  sta.,  D.B.,  is  con- 
nected with  an  adventurer  named 
Sombre  or  Sumroo,  of  French  or  Wal- 
loon origin,  who  came  out  to  India  as 
a  carpenter  in  the  French  navy.  He 
became  leader  of  a  band  of  European 
deserters  and  native  Sepoys,  whom  he 
brought  to  a  state  of  discipline  unusual 
in  native  soldiers.  After  serving  under 
several  native  chiefs,  but  staying  with 
none  of  them  long,  he  joined  one 
Gregory,  an  Armenian,  who  was  high  in 
the  favour  of  Mir  Kasim,  the  Nawab  of 
Bengal.  It  was  after  the  fall  of  Munger 
that  he  did  his  employer  the  base  service 
of  putting  to  death  all  the  sixty  English 
prisoners  who  had  been  collected  at 
Patna  (in  1763),  a  deed  for  which  his 
name  will  ever  be  held  in  abhorrence.  He 
nextjoined  the  Bhurtpur  chief,  and  from 
him  finally  went  over  to  Najaf  Khan, 
from  whom  he  received  a  grant  of  the 
Parganah  of  Sardhana,  then  valued  at 
6  lakhs  a  year  and  to  him  he  remained 

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ROUTE  11  A.   DELHI  TO  UMBALLA 


India 


faithful  for  the  rest  of  his  life.  He 
died  in  1778,  and  his  Begam,  originally 
a  Cashmere  dancing-girl,  viaa  recognised 
as  Ms  widow,  and  succeeded  to  his 
domains  and  the  command  of  his  troops. 
She  became  a  Roman  Catholic  in  1784, 
and  married  a  French  adventurer  named 
Le  Vaisseau  (1792),  who  having  shown 
himself  incompetent  to  rule  was  in- 
duced to  commit  suicide.  The  revolt 
which  he  had  caused  was  (jueUed  by 
the  Begam,  aided  by  an  English  servant, 
George  Thomas,  and  by  a  son  of  Sumroo, 
Zafar  yab  Khan.'  At  his  death,  1802, 
the  Begam  ^ve  his  daughter  in  mar- 
riage to  Mr.  Dyce,  one  of  her  officers, 
afterwards  known  as  Colonel  Dyce 
Sombre,  who  in  1862  married  Lady 
Mary  Jervis,  daughter  of  Earl  St. 
Vincent,  afterwards  Lady  M.  Forester. 
The  Begam  was  a  woman  of  shrewd 
ability,  and  after  keeping  up  a  good 
understanding  with  the  British  Govern- 
ment, her  forces  were  received  into 
British  pay. 

E.  of  the  town  is  a  modern  English 
mansion,  built  1834,  and  called  the 
Palace,  with  a  ffrand  flight  of  steps  at 
the  entrance.  It  stands  in  a  garden  of 
50  acres,  and  is  commonly  known  as 
the  Eothi  Dilkusha.  Within  will  be 
found  two  framed  inscriptions  record- 
ing the  charities  of  H.H.  the  Begam 
Sombre  in  Sardhana.  There  are  por- 
traits of  the  Begam  and  her  friends. 
In  one  she  is  represented  smoking,  with 
Dyce  Sombre  as  a  child  beside  her. 
Also  of  George  Thomas,  General  Ochter- 
lony.  Sir  C.  Metcalfe,  Lord  Comber- 
mere,  Colonel  Boileau,  General  Ventura, 
and  the  Begam's  butler,  etc. 

The  B.  C.  Cathedral  is  outside  the 
town  on  the  S.  It  is  an  imposing 
building,  standing  in  an  enclosure,  sur- 
rounded by  an  ornamental  wall.  By 
the  side  entrance,  on  the  rt.,  is  the 
Begam's  white  marble  monument,  made 
at  Home.  Close  by  is  the  B.  C.  College, 
a  low  masonry  house,  which  was  once 
the  Begam's  own  residence.  It  is  in- 
tended for  the  instruction  of  native 
priests,  and  endowed  by  the  Begam. 
There  are  60  pupils  taught  by  the 
Italian  priest  ana  his  curate.  The 
Begam's  or  Sumroo  estates  lapsed  to 
Government  in  1835. 


111m.  Saharanpore  junc.  sta.,3^  (R.) 
D.B.  From  here  the  Oudh  and  Rohil- 
cund  railway  runs  K  to  Hardwar,  AU-  I 
garh,  Lucknow,  Ajodhya,  and  Benares 
(see  Rte.  16  ;  good  road  to  42  m.  Dehra 
Dun,  p.  256). 

This  municipal  city,  with  a  pop.  of 
68,300,  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Jumni 
Canal  establishment. 

The  town  was  founded  in  the  reign 
of  Muhammad  Tughlak  about  1340. 
It  was  called  from  Shah  Haran  Chisti, 
whose  shrine  is  still  much  visited  by 
Mohammedans.  It  was  a  favooiite 
place  of  summer  resort  of  the  Mognl 
court.  In  the  reign  of  Shah  Jehan  a 
royal  hunting -seat,  called  Badshah 
Mahal,  was  built  by  'All  Mardan  Khan, 
the  projector  of  the  Eastern  Jqhuii 
Canal.  Unhappily  the  canal  was 
neglected  during  the  decline  of  the 
Mogul  Empire,  and  was  never  of  much 
utility  till  the  district  came  under 
British  rule.  Sir  P.  Cautley  recon- 
structed it,  since  which  time  cultira- 
tion  has  spread  on  every  side. 

There  is  an  Anglican  church,  conse- 
crated in  1858 ;  and  an  American  Pres- 
byterian church,  and  a  Mission  from 
that  body.  An  old  Rohilla  fort  is  nsed 
as  a  Court-House.  A  handsome  modern 
mosque  has  been  erected  on  theplans  of 
the  Jumma  Musjid  at  DelhL  Tne  main 
attraction  to  the  traveller,  however,  will 
be  the  extensive  OoTemment  Botanical 
Qardens,  where  many  valuable  plants 
have  been  acclimatised. 

Near  the  entrance  by  the  N.  gate  is 
the  Agricultural  Garden,  and  beyond 
it  to  the  E.  the  Medicinal  Garaen; 
beyond  this  to  the  S.  is  the  linnsBan 
Garden.  The  main  working  divisions 
are  the  horticultural  department,  the 
Doab  Canal  tree  nursery,  the  nurseries 
for  cuttings,  bulbous  plants,  fruit  trees, 
and  seedlings.  There  is  a  Hindu  temple 
and  a  tank  and  wcUs.  The  S.E.  gate 
leads  to  some  saH  monuments  and 
chattris. 

Saharanpore  is  celebrated  as  the  sta- 
tion whence  the  Trigonometrical  Sv- 
yey  of  the  Himalayas  was  commenced. 
The  snowy  peaks  add  much  sublimitr 
to  the  view  to  the  N. 

161  m.  Umballa  Cantonment  sta. 
(see  p.  190). 

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ROUTE  12 

Umballa  to  Lahore 

17  m.  Bajpnrajunc.  sta.  D.6.  From 
here  a  branch  line  runs  S.  W.  16  m.  to 
Patdala,  and  from  that  W.  to  Bhatinda 
on  the  Rewari-Ferozepur  line. 

33  m.  Sirhind  sta.  The  name  of 
this  town  was  formerly  applied  to  a  very 
extensive  tract,  which  included  the  Um- 
balla district  and  the  native  states  of 
Patiala  and  Nabha.  It  is  the  place  where 
many  Afghan  princes  of  Shah  Shiga's 
family  are  buried ;  in  Cunningham's 
ArdueologicaZ  Survey,  vol.  ii.  p.  205, 
a  very  interesting  account  of  it  will  be 
found 

It  is  mentioned  by  Firishtah  as  the 
most  eastern  possession  of  the  Brahman 
kings  of  Kabul.  After  they  were  con- 
quered by  Mahmud,  it  became  the 
frontier  town  of  the  Moslems,  whence 
its  name  of  Sirhind  or  Sar-i-hind, 
"Frontier  of  Hind."  It  must  have 
been  a  place  of  importance  as  long 
back  as  1191  A.D.,  when  it  was  taken 
by  Mnhammad  Ghori  and  retaken  by 
Bai  Pithora  after  a  siege  of  13  months. 
At  that  early  date  it  had  a  separate 
governor. 

For  the  century  and  a  half  that 
intervened  between  the  accession  of 
Akbar  and  the  death  of  Aurangzeb, 
Sirhind  was  one  of  the  most  flourishing 
cities  of  the  Mogul  Empire.  Many 
tombs  and  mosques  are  yet  standing, 
and  heaps  of  brick  ruins  surround  the 
old  city  for  several  miles.  In  1709  the 
city  was  taken  and  plundered  by  the 
Skh  chief  Banda,  who  put  the  governor 
Tazir  Khan  to  death  in  revenge  for  the 
nmrder  of  Guru  Govind's  family.  In 
1713,  and  again  in  December  1763, 
%hind  was  taken  and  totally  destroyed 
by  the  Sikhs.  Even  to  this  day  every 
Sikh  on  passing  through  Sirhind  carries 
sway  a  brick,  which  he  throws  into  the 
SNiuej  in  the  hope  that  in  time  the 
detested  city  will  thus  be  utterly  re- 
moved from  the  face  of  the  earth.  The 
finest  and  oldest  building  is  the 

Tomb  of  Hir  Miran.  It  is  of  stone, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  large  central 


dome  on  an  octagonal  base,  with  a 
smaller  dome  at  each  of  the  four  corners 
on  a  square  base.  Each  of  the  four 
sides  is  pierced  by  a  recessed  doorway 
with  a  pointed  arch  covered  by  a  second 
loftier  and  larger  arch.  The  dead  walls 
are  relieved  by  squares  of  blue  enamelled 
tiles.  The  general  effect  is  decidedly 
good,  and  altogether  this  tomb  is  one 
of  the  most  pleasing  and  perfect  speci- 
mens of  the  later  Pathan  or  earlier 
Afghan  architecture. 

The  Laxgdst  Tomb  is  a  plain  brick 
building.  At  the  four  comers  are  very 
small  turrets,  which  look  mean  beside 
the  lofty  central  dome  of  40  ft.  diameter 
which  crowns  the  building.  The  next 
tomb  in  size  is  another  red  brick  build- 
ing, attributed  to  Khoja  Khan,  The 
great  dome  is  36  ft.  in  diameter  outside. 
This  building  is  probably  of  the  15th 
century.  There  is  a  pretty  little  octa- 
gonal Tomb  of  Pirbandi  Nak8hwaIa(or 
the  painter).  It  is  on  open  arches,  and 
is  surmounted  by  the  pear-shaped  dome 
of  the  Mogul  period.  The  body  of 
the  building  is  profusely  covered  with 
paintings  of  flowers,  and  the  roof  with 
glazed  tiles,  arranged  so  that  the  melon- 
like divisions  of  the  dome  are  marked 
by  dark  blue  lines,  and  the  intervals 
by  coloured  tiles  laid  herring-bone 
fashion,  beginning  with  yellowish  pale 
green  at  the  top  and  ending  with  dark 
green  at  the  bottom.  The  only  mosque 
worth  mentioning  is  that  of  Sadan 
Kasaiy  to  the  N.  of  the  present  town. 
The  W.  end  has  fallen  down.  The 
centre  space  is  covered  by  a  dome  45  ft. 
in  diameter. 

The  ffaveli  or  mBusion  of  Sahabat  Beg 
is  perhaps  the  largest  specimen  of  the 
domestic  architecSire  ot  the  Moham- 
medans of  the  Mogul  Empire.  It  con- 
sists of  2  great  piles  of  brick,  each  60 
ft.  Bq.  and  about  80  ft.  high,  connected 
by  high  dead  walls. 

The  great  Sarai  of  the  Mogul  em- 
perors is  to  the  S.E.  of  the  city.  It  is 
now  used  as  a  public  audience-hall  by 
the  Patiala  authoiities,  and  is  called  the 
Amkhas.  General  Cunningham  believes 
that  Sirhind  was  a  flourishing  town  in 
900  A.D.  But  its  interest  to  the  traveller 
consists  in  its  being  a  good  place  for 
examining  the 

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ROUTE  12.   UMBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


IvMa 


Great  Sirhind  Canal  (opened  in  1882), 
the  largest  irrigation  canal  in  the  world. 
It  draws  its  water  from  the  Sutlej  at 
Rupar  (20  m.  distant),  and  passing 
through  Ludhiana  and  Patiala,  with 
side  branches  to  Nabha,  Jind,  and  other 
native  states  of  the  Punjab,  eventually 
joins  the  Jumna  near  Eumal. 

71  m.  Lndhiana  st,  D.6.  This  is 
a  municipal  town  and  headquarters  of 
a  district  of  the  same  name.  (Pop. 
46,000,  of  whom  much  the  greater  por- 
tion are  Mohammedans. )  it  is  a  great 
grain  market,  and  famous  for  its  shawls 
made  from  Pashmina  wool,  also  for  the 
manufacture  of  Rampur  chudders.  It 
is  situated  near  the  S.  bank  of  the 
Sutlej,  8  m.  from  the  present  bed  of  the 
river.  The  Fort  lies  to  the  N.W.  of 
the  city,  and  a  little  to  the  S.  of  the 
Fort  is  the  Shrine  of  Pir-i-Dastgir,  or 
*Abdu  1  Kadir  Gilani. 

The  Church  and  Public  Gardens  are 

to  the  W.  of  the  cantonment.  There 
has  been  an  American  Presbyterian 
Mission  here  since  1840.  Ludhiana 
was  founded  in  1480  by  two  princes  of 
the  Lodi  family.  In  1809  General 
Ochterlony  occupied  it  as  Political 
Agent  for  the  CHs- Sutlej  states,  and 
from  1884  to  1854  the  town  was  a 
military  station.  The  troops  were  re- 
moved in  1854,  but  a  small  garrison 
was  left  to  occupy  the  Fort. 

The  Fort  is  on  an  eminence.  From 
the  flag -staff  bastion  there  is  a  good 
view  of  the  Ferozepur  road  and  the 
adjoining  country,  with  the  city  to  the 
E.  There  is  an  excellent  well  of  good 
water  in  the  Fort,  and  bomb-proof 
barracks  for  500  men. 

Most  of  the  great  battles  of  the  first 
Sikh  War  were  fought  between  Ludhi- 
ana and  Ferozepur,  including  Moodki, 
Ferozehah,  Sobraon,  and  Aliwal. 

The  road  from  Ludhiana  to,  16  m., 
Aliwal  is  so  deep  in  sand  that  4  horses 
are  required  for  a  carriage.  There  is 
there  an  O&e/isA:  inscribed  "  Aliwal,  16th 
January  1846;"  repeated  in  Persian 
and  Gurmukhi. 

The  battle  of  Aliwal  was  fought  on 
the  28th  January  1846  (see  Cnnning- 
mtoi^s  Sikhs,  p.  312). 


103  m.  Jullunder  Cantonment  sta.,  sCc 
D.B.  A  municipal  city,  cantonment, 
and  headquarters  of  a  district  of  tho 
same  name.  The  city  itself  (sta.  3  m. 
farther  N. )  has  a  pop.  of  50, 000,  of  whom 
the  ^eater  number  are  Mohammedans. 
Anciently  it  was  the  capital  of  the  Raj- 
put kingdom  of  Eatoch  before  Alexan- 
der's invasion.  Hiouen  Thsang,  the 
Chinese  pilgrim  of  the  7  th  century  A.D., 
describes  the  town  as  2  m.  in  circuit 
Two  ancient  Tanks  are  all  that  is  left 
of  the  primitive  city.  Ibrahim  Shah 
of  Ghazni  conquered  the  city,  and 
under  the  Mogul  Empire  it  formed  the 
capital  of  the  country  between  the 
Sutlej  and  the  Bias.  The  modem  city 
consists  of  a  cluster  of  wards,  eacn 
formerly  surrounded  by  a  wall.  There 
is  a  fine  Sarai  built  by  Karim  Baklish. 

The  Church,  J  m.  W.  of  the  artillery 
lines,  is  a  long  building  without  any 
tower. 

The  American  Presbyterian  BUssion 
maintains  an  excellent  school.  The 
Cantonment,  which  is  considered  a 
healthy  one,  was  established  in  1846, 
and  has  an  area  of  1\  sq.  m.  Two  regi- 
ments and  a  battery  of  artillery  are 
stationed  here. 

The  Public  Gardens  are  in  the  mili- 
tary cantonment,  and  are  nicely  laid 
out. 

It  is  a  good  district  for  sport.  Pig- 
sticking can  be  obtained  quite  near; 
black  buck  are  fairly  plentiful,  and 
there  is  very  good  snipe-shooting. 

[The  native  state  of  Kupurtiudla  is 
15  m.  S.W.     Good  road.] 

106.  m.  Jullunder  City  sta. 

155  m.  AMRTTSAR  June.  sta.,30c  D.B., 
about  J  m.  S.  of  the  city.  A  branch 
line  from  here  goes  N.E.  67  m.  to 
Pathankot  for  Dalhousie,  etc.  (see 
below). 

Amritsar  is  a  city  with  a  pop.  of 
136,500.  It  is  the  wealthiest  and, 
next  to  Delhi  and  Lahore,  the  most  popu- 
lous city  of  the  Punjab,  and  the  religious 
capital  of  the  Sikhs.  It  is  also  tibe  ad- 
ministi-ative  headquarters  of  a  district 
It  was  founded  in  1574  by  Bam  Das,  the 
Guru  of  the  Sikhs,  upon  a  site  granted 
by  the  Emperor  Akbar  around  a  sacred 

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RO0Tfi  12.       AMBITS^ 


197 


tmk,  from  which  the  city  takes  its 
lame,  '*  Pool  of  Immortality."  Ahmad 
Shah  Durani  destroyed  it  in  1761,  blew 
ip  the  temple,  and  defiled  the  shrines 
¥ith  bullock's  blood.  After  his  retire- 
nent  the  city  was  divided  amongst  the 
rarious  Sikh  chiefs,  to  each  of  whom 
was  assigned  a  separate  ward.  How- 
ever, it  gradually  passed  into  the  power 
of  the  fihanji  Misl,  who  retained  the 
supremacy  till  1802.  In  that  year 
Rsmjit  seized  it,  and  roofed  the  great 
shrine  with  sheets  of  copper  gilt, 
whence  it  was  called  the  Golden  Temple. 
He  also  built  on  the  N.W.  the  Fort  of 
Crovindgarh  in  order  to  overawe  the 
pilgrims,  and  surrounded  the  city  with 
a  massive  wall,  the  greater  part  of  which 
has  been  demolished  since  the  British 
occupation. 

Amritsar  is  a  centre  of  manufacturing 
industry.  Its  staple  was  the  weaving 
of  Cashmere  shawls  from  the  inner  soft 
wool  of  the  goat,  on  which  4000  Cash- 
meris  were  engaged,  but  most  of  them 
are  now  employed  in  carpet  factories. 
JRampur  chudders  are  also  made  here, 
silk  fabrics  of  solid  texture  and  beauti- 
ful patterns,  and  carpets  (see  below). 
Carving  in  ivory  employs  many  artists. 
The  materials  for  these  manufactures 
are,  in  a  great  measure,  brought  from 
an  parts  of  Central  Asia,  and  the  mer- 
chants who  bring  them  may  be  seen  in 
their  national  and  highly  picturesque 
costumes  about  the  town,  but  more 
especially  in  the  caravanserais,  which 
are  well  worthy  of  a  visit ;  and  there 
may  be  found  Cashmeris,  Afghans, 
Nepalese,  Bokharans,  Beluchis,  Per- 
sians, Tircomans,  Tibetans,  Yarkandis, 
and  others.  Besides  the  raw  materials 
they  bring  fine  specimens  of  their  own 
national  manufactures  and  embroideries, 
which  may  be  purchased  from  dealers 
in  this  town  as  well  as  in  the  other 
chief  cities  of  India.  Amritsar  is  also 
the  depdt  for  piece-goods,  copper,  brass, 
etc,  for  the  GentriU  Asian  markets. 

Tlie  City  has  12  gates,  of  which  the 
only  old  one  is  that  on  the  N.  side 
facing  the  Bam  Bagh.  On  his  way  to 
the  Great  Temple,  called  the  Darbar, 
or  Golden  Temple,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  the  traveller  passes  2  large 
modem  Sarais,  the  Carpet  Factory, 


which  surpasses  any  other  in  India, 
and  more  than  one  small  mosque ;  then 
through  a  deep  archway  in  the  centre 
of  the  municipal  buildings  he  enters 
the  Kaisar  Bagh,  where  stands  a  white 
marble  statue  of  H.M.  the  Queen.  At 
the  entrance  to  the  temple  precincts 
stands  the  Clock  Tower,  which  over- 
looks the  tank  and  the  temple  in  the 
centre.  The  view  from  here  is  wonder- 
fully picturesque.  Before  visiting  the 
temple  it  wiU  be  necessary  for  the 
visitor  to  take  off  his  boots  and  put  on 
soft  slippers  provided  for  him  at  the 
entrance  on  payment  of  a  trifle.  It  is 
also  necessary  for  a  policeman  to  accom- 
pany him,  in  accordance  with  Govern- 
ment rules.  The  Sacred  Tank  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  tesselated  pavement^  of 
white  marble  24  ft.  broad,  with  ribs  of 
black  and  brown,  brought  from  Jeypore. 
It  is  470  ft.  sq.^  The  buildings  sur- 
rounding it  are  called  Bungahs,  and 
are  the  houses  of  great  chiefs  who  come 
to  worship.  To  the  N.  W.  of  the  Darbar 
Temple  is  that  of  Takht  Akal  Bungah 
Sahib  (see  below),  with  a  gilt  dome, 
and  adjoining  it,  to  the  S.,  is  the  bungah 
of  Dhiyan  Sing,  a  plain  brick  building. 
Next  to  it  on  the  S.  is  the  gorgeous 
bungah  of  Sher  Sing,  and  in  the  same 
direction  beyond  it  and  beyond  the 
small  square  in  which  are  all  those 
already  mentioned,  is  the  bungah  of 
Lehna  Sing.  In  the  N.E.  is  the  white 
bungah  of  the  Rajahs  of  Patiala  and 
Nabha,  and  beyond,  outside  the  enclo- 
sure, to  the  £.,  are  the  two  gi^n- 
tic  minars  of  Mangal  Sing's  family, 
called  the  Kam  Garhiya  Minars  (see 
below). 

The  Darbar  or  €h>ldeii  Temple  stands 
in  the  centre  of  the  tank  on  a  platform 
65  ft.  sq.  It  is  approached  from  be- 
neath an  archway  on  the  W.  side  by  a 
white  marble  causeway  204  ft.  long, 
flanked  on  either  side  by  gilded 
standard  lamps. 

Except  for  the  lower  part  of  the  walls, 
which  are  of  white  marble  (decorated 
with  modem  inlaid  work),  the  whole  of 

1  Along  this  pavement  sit  hawkers  who  tell 
beads  and  miniature  spear-heads  and  qaoits, 
which  the  Sikhs  are  now  content  to  wear  in 
their  puggeries  in  place  of  the  real  weapons. 

3  See  Sir  O.  Birdwood>  Industrial  ArU 

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the  buUding  is  encased  in  gilded  copper, 
its  sides  inscribed  with  verses  from  the 
Gran^,  written  very  distinctly  in  the 
Punjabi  character.  It  is  entered  by  4 
doorways,  one  on  each  side.  The  doors 
are  plated  with  silver  finely  wrought. 
That  on  the  N.  side  is  the  only  one 
through  which  Europeans  may  pass. 

The  scene  within  is  a  most  pictur- 
esque one.  The  walls  are  richly  gilded 
and  painted  with  representations  of 
flowers,  etc.  On  the  E.  side  is  seated 
the  high  priest,  either  reading  from  a 
copy  of  the  QrarUh  which  lies  before 
him  on  an  ottoman,  or  waving  a  chauri, 
whilst  pilgrims  enter  and  throw  offer- 
ings of  cowries,  money,  or  flowers  into 
a  sheet  spread  in  the  middle  of  the 
floor  to  receive  them :  then  taking 
their  places  around  it  they  sit  down 
and  join  in  chanting  verses  of  the 
sacred  volume  to  the  music  of  stringed 
instruments. 

Cups  of  sugar  are  presented  to  the 
visitor,  who  may  in  return  make  an 
offering  of  1  r.  On  the  roof  above 
there  is  a  small  but  richly  decorated 
Shish  Mahal  or  pavilion,  where  it  is 
said  the  Guru  used  to  sit.  The  brooms 
kept  to  sweep  it  out  are  made  of  pea- 
cocks' feathers. 

Returning  to  the  gateway,  which 
has  doors  covered  with  massive  silver 
plates,  a  staircase  will  be  found  to 
lead  up  to  the  Treasury,  in  which 
is  a  large  chest.  This  place  has  31 
pillars  or  poles  of  silver  9  ft.  long  and 
4J-  in.  in  diameter,  and  4  larger  ones. 
In  the  chest  are  kept  3  gilt  maces,  a 
pamkhah^  2  chauriSy  all  with  gilt 
handles,  a  canopy^  weighing  10  lbs.,  of 
pure  gold,  set  with  emeralds,  rubies, 
and  diamonds,  a  pendant  of  gold, 
a  coloured  plan  of  the  temple  and  a 
magnificent  diadem  of  diamonds  with 
strings  of  pearls  worn  as  pendants; 
this  was  worn  by  Nau  Nihal  Sing. 
There  is  also  a  sort  of  gilt  arch  6  ft. 
high.  All  these  are  used  when  the 
Granth  is  carried  in  procession.  In 
one  comer  a  large  heap  of  Cowry  shells 
will  be  observed.  They  are  offerings 
made  by  pilgrims. 

On  the  W.  side  of  the  small  square 
falsing  the  gateway  is  the  Akal  Bungah, 
with  its  gilt  dome.     This  temple  was 


{ 


built  in  the  time  of  Arjun,  the  fifth 
Guru.  A  low  staircase  leads  to  a  room 
with  a  projecting  window.  In  the 
room  is  a  gilt  ark,  on  the  floor  of  which 
are  a  number  of  things  covered  with  a 
cloth  ;  this  is  partly  removed,  and  a 
large  sword  is  taken  out  and  put  into 
the  visitor's  hand.  It  is  a  falchion  4  ft. 
lon^  and  widening  towards  the  end. 
It  IS  said  to  be  the  sword  of  Guru 
Govind ;  a  mace  also  is  shown,  which 
was  wielded  by  one  of  the  Gurus. 
In  the  ark  are  also  the  vessels  for  initi- 
ating new  members  into  the  Sikh  Con- 
federacy ;  the  rite  of  initiation  is  called 
Pahal.  There  is  the  Charan  Pahal,  in 
which  the  novice  drinks  the  water  that 
has  washed  the  feet  of  the  Guru,  and 
has  some  of  it  sprinkled  on  his  hair. 
There  is  too  the  Shainshir  PdhaZ,  in 
which  the  novice  drinks  water  poured 
on  a  sword,  and  has  some  of  it  sprinkled 
over  his  hair. 

The  visitor  by  passing  round  to  the 
S.  side  of  the  enclosure  can  reach  the 
Darbar  Garden,  as  it  is  called.  It 
is  30  acres  in  extent,  and  contains 
pomegranate,  orange,  and  other  fruit 
trees,  a  tank  called  Eaulsar,  and  several 
small  pavilions.  At  the  S.  end  of  the 
garden  is  the  picturesque  Atal  Tower. 
The  lower  room  is  richly  painted,  and 
is  30  ft.  in  diameter  inside.  Devotees 
on  entering  shampoo  the  step  of  the 
shrine  with  their  hands.  A  staircase 
leads  up  to  7  galleries ;  there  is  then 
a  wooden  ladder  which  ascends  to  an 
8th, — the  entire  height  of  the  building 
is  131  ft. 

This  tower  is  dedicated  to  Atal  Rai, 
the  younger  son  of  iTar  Govind,  who 
is  said  to  have  been  reproved  by  his 
father  for  raising  the  deceased  child  of 
a  widow  to  life.  His  father  said  that 
his  supernatural  powers  ought  to  be 
displayed  in  punty  of  doctrine  and 
holiness  of  life,  and  not  in  miracles, 
whereupon  Atal  Bai  said  that  as  a  life 
was  required  and  he  had  withheld  one, 
he  would  yield  up  his  own.  He  then 
lay  down  and  died  ;  see  Cunningham's 
Sikhs^  p.  68. 

Outside  the  Temple  enclosure  on  lie 
E.  are  the  Ramg^Mya  Miliars,  vast 
and  grand,  but  not  handsome.  The 
one  to  the  N.  may  be  ascended.    At 

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the  top  there  is  a  ^ood  view,  to  the 
N.  W.  taking  in  a  white  temple  to  Shiva 
at  the  extremity  of  the  city,  built  by 
Sardar  Tej  Sing.  To  the  N.E.,  at  1 
m.  off,  St.  Paul  8  Churoh  is  seen  peep- 
ing oat  among  woods,  close  to  the 
D. B.  Govindgarh  Fort  appears  to  the 
W.  by  N. 

On  the  return  drive  pass  out  of  the 
Ram  Bagh  Gate  (the  only  remaining 
old  one)  of  the  city  to  the  Kotwali 
Chauk.  The  Kotwali,  or  Police  Office, 
has  a  handsome  front.  To  the  left  is 
the  mosque  of  Muhammad  Jan  ;  it  has 
three  white  domes  and  slender  minarets. 
Farther  to  the  N.  is  the  'Idgah ;  and 
close  to  it  is  the  mosque  of  Khan 
Muhammad.  To  the  right  is  a  fine 
tank,  and  }  m.  to  the  S.  are  the  Public 
Qardens,  which  are  about  40  acres  in 
extent.  In  the  centre  is  a  pavilion  in 
which  Ranjit  Singh  stopped  when  he 
came  to  Amritsar.  The  grounds  are 
well  laid  out,  and  the  creepers  are 
beautiful. 

The  Fort  of  GoYindgarh  is  a  short 
distance  to  the  N.W.  of  the  city.  It  is 
garrisoned  with  a  battery  of  artillery 
and  a  company  of  British  infantry.  It 
was  built  by  Ranjit  Sing  in  1809,  but 
the  fortifications  were  traced  by  the 
French  officers  in  his  service  on  scien- 
tific principles.  There  is  nothing  very 
mteresting  to  the  traveller. 

Amongst  other  places  worthy  of 
a  visit  if  time  permits  are  the  Hall 
Bazaar^  the  Sariiook  Shar  Tank^  and 
the  GovemmeTU  and  Church  Mission 
Schools, 

[14  m.  to  the  S.  of  Amritsar  is  Tarn 
Titfan,  D.B.,  a  place  which  is  esteemed 
very  holy  by  the  Sikhs.  The  traveller 
will  pay  15  rs.  for  his  hired  shigram^ 
and  leave  the  city  by  the  Chativind 
Gate,  which  is  the  one  to  the  S.E. 
After  50  yds.,  the  Hasli  Canal  is 
crossed  ;  the  road  beyond  is  bad. 

From  this  the  Temple  and  Tower, 
which  are  the  sights  of  the  place,  are  a 
third  of  a  mile  distant.  They  are  situ- 
ated on  the  E.  side  of  a  magnificent 
tank,  which  is  kept  fall  of  water  from 
the  Ban  Doab  Canal.  This  tank  was 
made  by  Ranjit  when  he  built  the 
tsmiile.    The  visitor  will  have  to  take 


off  his  shoes  and  put  on  cloth  slippers 
before  descending  into  the  enclosure. 
The  lower  room  of  the  temple  has  been 
handsomely  painted  with  representa- 
tions of  trees,  while  the  outside  walls 
have  paintings  of  gods  and  goddesses. 
The  room  has  a  corridor  round  it,  on 
the  S.  side  of  which  is  the  GrarUhf 
enveloped  in  silk  wrappers,  and  fanned 
by  an  official  with  a  chauH. 

This  place  was  the  residence  of  the 
Guru  Anun,and  is  older  than  Amritsar ; 
unlike  the  temples  at  that  city,  it  has 
no  writings  on  the  walls.  There  is  a 
small  pavilion  with  open  sides  on  the 
roof.  The  tank  is  said  to  possess 
miraculous  powers  to  cure  the  lepers 
who  can  swim  across  it  At  its  N.  comer 
is  a  tower  built  by  Nau  Nihal  Sing. 

The  neighbourhood  is  famous  as  the 
stronghold  of  the  Sikhs,  and  the  former 
recruiting  -  ground  for  their  army. 
There  is  a  leper  asylum  outside  the 
town,  and  a  suburb  inhabited  by  those 
infected  with  the  disease,  from  which  it 
is  said  the  Guru  Aijun  himself  suflfered.  ] 

[At  Amritsar  passengers  for  Dal- 
housie,  Chamba,  Kangra  and  Dhurm- 
sala  change  on  to  the  Amritsar- 
Pathankot  Rly. 

67  m.  Pathankot  terminus  sta.  (R.), 
D.B.  A  picturesque  town  with  a  16th 
cent.  Fort  Here  a  tonga  may  be  pro- 
cured for,  34  m. ,  Doneira,  D.  B.  Thence 
by  pony  or  dooly  (in  12  hrs.  from 
Amritsar)  to,  22  m.,  Dalhousie,  3^  a 
charming  hill-station  and  sanitarium 
7700  ft  above  the  sea,  surrounded  by 
forests.  The  scenery  is  very  fine, 
especially  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
Chamba,  D.B.,  12  m.  distant. 

The  sceneiy  in  the  Kangra  Valley 
(about  24  m.  m  the  direction  of  Simla), 
where  tea  is  grown,  is  remarkably  fine. 
A  hi^h  ridge  separates  the  Kangra  from 
the  Kullu  Valley  E.  (see  Simla,  Rte.  II).] 

184  m.  Meean  Meer  sta.  This  is  the 
military  station  of  Lahore. 

187  m.  LAHORE  June,  sta.,  :^  D.B.  (R. 
good).  Lines  run  N.W.  to  Rawal  Pindi 
and  Peshawar,  and  S.W.  through  Sind 
to  Karachi  The  rly.  workshops  are 
very  extensive,  covering  126  acres ;  over 
2000  men  are  employed.    Good  houses, 

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HOtJTB  12.      tJMBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


India 


swimming  bath,  theatre,  recreation 
ground,  and  church  are  provided  for  the 
employes.  A  tramway  runs  from  the 
rly.  sta.  to  the  native  town  1  m.  W. 

The  traveller  wishing  to  see  something  of 
Lahore  in  a  short  time  should  secure  a 
conveyance  at  the  rly.  sta.  He  should 
then  drive  to  the  so-called  Oharinff  Cross 
at  the  cross  roads  near  the  Punjab  Club, 
and  driving  E.  along  the  Mall  will  pass  (in 
the  order  in  which  they  are  named),  rt. 
the  entrance  to  the  Lawrence  Gardens: 
1.  the  Punjab  Club ;  rt.  the  combined 
Lawrence  and  Montgomery  Halls;  1. 
Government  House,  the  residence  of  the  Lt.- 
Governor ;  1.  Altchison  or  Chiefs*  College, 
3  m.  further  in  the  same  direction  is  the 
Meean  Meer  Cantonment  (p.  206).  Driving 
along  the  Mall  W.  fi*om  Charing  Cross  he  will 
pass  several  good  shops  ;  1.  Nedou's  Hotel ;  1. 
Lord  Lawrence's  Statue ;  rt.  the  Cathedral ; 
1.  the  Chief  Court  and  the  Accountants* 
Gnh's  0£Bce  ;  several  Banks  and  then  rt.  the 
Telegraph  Office.  Near  a  slight  turn  in  the 
road  are  1.  the  Old  and  New  Museums,  and 
the  Post  Office,  and  beyond,  the  entrance 
to  the  Anarkali  Gardens.  Turning  N.  the 
Government  College  and  Small  C.  Courts 
are  passed  rt ;  1.  Deputy  Commissioner's 
Court,  Model  School  and  Government 
School.  Further  B.  are  the  Hospital,  Mayo 
Hospital,  etc.  Slightly  deflecting  N.W.  the 
Cemetery  is  passed  1.,  and  a  little  further  on 
the  road  divides;  thai  leading  to  Shah 
Dara  (p.  206)  across  the  bridge  of  boats,  that 
rt.  works  round  by  the  Port,  and  the  N.  wall 
of  the  city  back  to  the  rly.  sta. 

In  the  new  Public  Buildings  of  Lahore 
an  attempt  has  been  made  to  adopt  Hindu 
and  Mohammedan  styles  of  architecture  to  the 
requirements  of  modem  buildings. 

Lahore  ^  is  a  municipal  city,  capital 
of  the  Punjab,  headquarters  of  the 
Lt. -Governor  and  the  Punjab  Govt», 
and  the  seat  of  an  episcopal  see,  and 
headquarters  of  a  district  of  the  same 
name  (pop.  176,700).  Tradition  says 
that  Lahore  was  founded  by  Loh,  the 
elder  son  of  Rama  ;  no  mention  of  it, 
however,  is  made  by  Alexander's  his- 
torians, and  no  Grseco-Bactrian  coins 
are  found  among  the  ruins. 

The  first  reference  to  it  is  in  the 
Itinerary  of  the  Chinese  pilgrim  Hiouen 
Thsang,  in  the  7th  cent.  It  seems  then 
to  have  been  governed  by  a  family  of 
Chauhan  Rajputs,  from  whom  it  was 
wrested  by  the  Moslems  of  Ghazni,  but 
it  did  not  attain  to  magnificence  till 
the  reign  of  the  Moguls.  Akbar  en- 
larged and  repaired  the  fort,  and  sur- 

T  ^.Tl^ornton's  Lahore,  and  Syad  Mahammad 
Latif 8  Lahore  give  very  full  accounts  of  the 
place. 


rounded  the  town  with  a  wall,  portions 
of  which  still  remain,  built  into  the 
modern  wall  of  Ranjit  Singh.  Jehangir 
also  often  resided  at  LaLore,  and  during 
his  reign  Arjun  Mall,  Guru  of  the  Sikhs, 
compiler  of  the  Adi  Granth,  died  in 
prison  here.  The  mausoleum  of  Jehan- 
gir is  at  Shah  Dara,  4  m.  from  Lahore 
(see  below).  Shah  Jehan  built  the 
palace  of  Lahore.  Anrangzib  built  the 
great  mosque,  but  in  his  time  the  city 
began  to  decline,  and  was  much  ruined 
by  the  invasions  of  Ahmad  ShahDurani. 

Under  Ranjit  Sing  Lahore  regained 
some  of  its  former  splendour,  and  since 
the  period  of  the  British  rule,  which 
commenced  in  1849,  buildings  have 
greatly  multiplied.  Modem  Lahore 
covers  an  area  of  640  acres,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  brick  wall  15  ft.  high. 
The  moat  nas  been  filled  in  and  changed 
to  a  garden,  which  encircles  the  city  on 
e  very  side  except  the  north.  A  metalled 
road  runs  round  the  rampart,  and  gives 
access  to  the  city  by  thirteen  gates. 

Within  the  ramparts  that  surround 
the  city,  in  the  N.  part  of  the  enclosure, 
and  N.  of  the  city  itself,  is  the  Citadel, 
usually  called  the  Fort.  The  Bavi 
river  flowing  W.  once  washed  the  walls 
of  the  city,  and  in  1662  m^de  such 
encroachments  as  to  necessitate  the 
construction  of  a  massive  embankment 
4  m.  long.  It  now  sweeps  round 
Lahore  and  passes  to  the  S.  at  about 
1  m.  W.  of  the  city. 

The  Tomb  of  Anar  Kali,  "Pome- 
granate Blossom"  (a  name  given  to 
a  favourite  lady  in  the  harem  of 
Akbar,  who  was  also  called  Nadirah 
Begam,  or  Sharifu-nissa),  is  an  octagon 
cased  in  plaster  and  surmounted  by  a 
dome.  It  was  for  many  years  used  as 
the  church  of  the  civu  station.  The 
cenotaph,  now  placed  at  the  K  end 
of  the  central  chamber,  is  for  some 
reasons  one  of  the  most  interesting 
things  to  be  seen  in  Lahore.  It  is 
of  the  purest  white  marble,  and  the 
words  carved  on  it  are  so  exquisitely 
formed  as  to  surpass  anything  of  the 
kind  in  India.  On  its  face  and  sides 
are  inscribed  the  99  names  of  God.  Ob 
the  side,  below  the  names  of  the  Jkitft 
I  is  written  Majnun  Salim  AkhaTt  ''The 
I  profoundly  enamoured  Salim,  aoa  of 

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ROUTB  12.      LABORS 


201 


ikbar/'  Salim  being  the  name  of 
Jehangir.  Then  foflows  a  Persian 
iierse.  The  date,  given  in  letters  and 
ii  figures,  corresponds  to  1599.  Akbar 
died  on  the  13th  October  1605,  so  that 
this  tomb  may  have  been  erected  about 
ive  years  before  his  death.  On  the  W. 
side  is  another  date,  above  the  words 
'*In  Lahore,"  corresponding  to  1615, 
and  is  probably  the  date  of  the  building 
of  the  tomb,  while  the  other  refers  to 
the  death  of  Anar  Kali.  The  story  is 
that  Anar  Kali  was  beloved  by  Salim, 
and  was  seen  by  Akbu*,  his  father,  to 
smile  when  the  Prince  entered  the 
harem.  As  a  punishment  for  this  it 
is  said  that  she  was  buried  alive  ;  and 
the  distich  engraved  on  her  sarcophagus 
certainly  indicates  that  Salim  was  her 
lover. 

The  Cathedral  is  a  cruciform  build- 
ing of  brick,  occupying  a  very  central 
site  E.  of  the  Telegraph  Office. 

The  old  building,  called  the  SJiah 
Chiragh  is  used  as  the  Acconntant- 
GeneraTs  Office— the  additions  were 
designed  by  Mr.  Oldrid  Scott 

i  m.  N.  of  the  Cathedral  are  the 
Mayo  HospUoU^  the  MediccU  School  (the 
largest  in  India),  the  Lady  AitchUon 
SospUaZ,  and  the  Training  Home  for 
Nur$es. 

The  Huseuin,  called  by  the  natives 
'Aja'ib  Garh,  is  near  the  Anar  Kali 
Gurdens.  On  a  raised  platform  in 
front  of  the  entrance  to  the  old  build- 
ing is  the  famous  gun  called  the 
Zunzamah,  ''Hummer,"  but  the  word 
also  means  a  lion's  roar.  The  Sikhs 
called  it  the  Bhangianwali  Top,  that 
it  the  cannon  of  the  Bhangi  confeder- 
acy. The  gun  was  made  by  Shah  Wali 
Khan,  Vazir  of  Ahmad  Shah  Durani, 
and  was  used  by  him  at  the  battle  of 
Paniput.  After  Ahmad  Shah  left  India 
it  came  into  the  hands  of  the  Bhangi 
Misl,  and  Bairjit  eventually  got  posses- 
sion of  it,  and  used  it  at  the  siege  of 
Mooltan  in  1818.  It  was  then  placed 
at  1^  Delhi  Gate  of  Lahore  until  1860, 
when  it  was  removed  to  its  present 
site.  The  Persian  inscriptions  on  it 
give  the  date  of  casting,  1762  A.D. 

The  Museum  contains  specimens  of 
the  antiquities,  arts,  manufactures,  and  I 


raw  products — vegetable,  mineral,  and 
animal — of  the  Punjab. 

In  the  archaeological  department 
there  is  a  stone  with  an  inscription  of 
the  time  of  King  Gondophares,  who  is 
said  to  have  pnt  St  Thomas  to  death  ; 
the  bases  or  2  pillars  brought  by 
General  Cunningham  from  Shah  ka 
Dera,  which  he  thinks  to  be  the  ancient 
Taxila;  numerous  Buddhist  sculptures 
from  the  Yusufzai  country  and  else- 
where, in  which  Greek  influence  is 
plainly  discerned ;  an  "ancient  Hindu" 
(more  probably  Buddhist)  nillar  about 
9  ft.  high,  with  a  huge  beaa  projecting 
on  one  side,  dug  up  near  Jhelum  ;  also 
two  old  brass  cannon  found  buried  in  a 
mound  of  Anandpur  in  the  district  of 
Hoshiyarpur,  thought  to  be  of  the  time 
of  Guru  Govind.  There  are  only  two 
relics  of  the  prehistoric  age.  They  are 
two  finely  finished  celts  found  in  Swat, 
of  porphyritic  greenstone.  The  coins 
are  kept  in  a  strong  box,  and  can  be 
seen  on  application  to  the  Curator. 

There  is  a  series  of  portraits,  repre- 
senting prinnesand  chiefs  of  the  Paiyab ; 
they  are  by  an  Indian  artist,  and  as 
specimens  of  art  cannot  be  much  praised. 
Among  ornaments  worn  by  the  people 
may  1^  noticed  the  perdk,  a  sort  of 
coif  used  by  maidens  in  lahaul  and 
Spiti,  in  which  a  number  of  turquoises 
are  sewn.  There  is  also  a  good  collec- 
tion of  musical  instruments  of  the 
country ;  specimens  of  pottery  and 
Pui^'ab  glass,  and  of  the  Koftgari  work 
of  Gujrat  and  Sialkot ;  cups  and  orna- 
ments of  vitreous  enamel  from  Bahawal- 
pur;  silver  inlaid  in  pewter,  and 
perforated  metal -work  from  Delhi. 
Observe  too  a  da^er  with  small  pearls 
set  loosely  in  theblade. 

There  are  good  specimens  of  the  silk 
manufactures  of  Bahawalpur  and  Mool- 
tan, and  the  satinettes  are  excellent. 
Also  a  curious  embroidery  of  soft  floss 
silk  on  cotton  called  shishdar  phulkariy 
interspersed  among  which  are  small 
mirrors  ;  rude  idols  hideously  painted, 
which  were  worshipped  b^  the  ladies  of 
the  Sikh  Court ;  an  exhibition  of  the 
leathern  ware  of  the  Pan  jab  ;  a  collec- 
tion of  ethnographical  heads  by  Messrs. 
Schlagentweit ;  lay  figures  habited  in 
the  costumes  of  the  people  of  Lahaul, 

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Spiti)  and  Ladakh ;  and  Thibetan 
curiosities,  such  as  prayer- wheels. 

In  the  mineral  section  will  be  seen 
the  model  of  the  Koh-i-Nur,  made 
for  the  Exhibition  of  1861.  According 
to  the  Hindus,  this  diamond  belonged 
to  Kama,  King  of  Anga,  and  according 
to  the  Persians,  it  and  its  sister 
diamond  the  Darya-i-Nur,  or  "  Sea  of 
Light,"  were  worn  by  Afrasiyab.  The 
Sea  of  Light  is  now  at  Teheran  in  the 
Shah's  treasury,  which  contains  the 
finest  jewels  in  the  world.  It  is  said 
that  Nadir  brought  the  Koh-i-Nur  from 
Delhi,  and  when  he  was  killed  it  fell 
into  the  hands  of  Ahmad  Shah  Durani, 
and  from  him  it  descended  to  Shah 
Shuja'a,  his  grandson,  from  whom  Ran- 
jit  took  it  on  the  first  of  June  1813.  In 
1849  it  was  made  over  to  the  British, 
and  delivered  to  the  Queen  in  1850. 
It  was  re-cut  in  London  by  Costa  of 
Amsterdam,  at  a  cost  of  £8000,  and  its 
weight  was  diminished  from  186  carats 
to  102i. 

There  are  also  specimens  of  the 
mineral  resources  of  the  country. 
Among  them  will  be  seen  iron  ore  from 
Bajor.  It  is  a  magnetic  oxiJe  of 
singular  purity.  Antimony  and  lead 
are  also  shown,  and  gold  found  in  the 
sands  of  the  Panjab  rivers  in  small 
quantities.  Specimens  of  rock-salt  of 
two  kinds,  one  from  the  hills  between 
the  Jhelum  and  the  Indus,  and  the 
other  from  the  hills  beyond  the  Indus 
are  shown.  There  is  a  fair  collection 
of  birds  and  insects. 

Lahore  possesses  a  flourishing  School 
of  Art,  under  the  superintendence  of 
the  Curator  of  the  Museum. 

The  Pmijab  Library,  is  said  by  some 
to  have  been  built  by  Vazir  Khan,  by 
others  by  Ilahi  Bakhsh.  It  is  a  hand- 
some building,  with  four  white  cupolas, 
and  contains  some  valuable  books. 

Not  far  off  is  the  shrine  of  a  Moham- 
medan saint  called  Mavj-i-Darya.  Over 
the  door  is  a  Persian  inscription  which 
says  it  is  the  tomb  of  Saiyad  M  uhammad 
Shah  Mauj-i- Darya,  son  of  Nuru'llah, 
who  was  a  spiritual  guide  in  the  time 
of  Akbar. 

W.  of  the  new  Museum  is  the  Town 
HaU,  opened  by  H.R.H.  the  late  Duke 
of  Clarence  in  1890. 


The  Native  Town  and  Fort— The 
picturesquenees  of  the  old  town  must 
appeal  to  every  one,  but  to  artists 
it  will  be  found  of  especial  interest. 
The  balconies  and  projecting  oriel 
windows  of  the  irregular  brick  nouses, 
together  with  the  variety  and  colour 
of  the  costumes  of  the  people,  form  a 
striking  picture.  Travellers  should 
not  fail  to  drive  through  the  bazaars 
on  their  way  to  (or  from)  the  Fort, 
entering  by  the  Delhi  gate. 

A  narrow  street  leads  to  an  inner 
gate  which  opens  into  a  chauk  or  square, 
where  is  the  very  beautiful  Mosque  of 
Vazir  Khan.  It  was  built  in  1634  by 
Hakim  'Alau-din  of  Chiniot,  Vazir 
of  the  £mperor  Shah  Jehan.  The  brick 
walls  are  covered  with  beautifril  inlaid 
work  called  Eashi  or  Nakkashi.  It  is 
a  kind  of  mosaic  of  glazed  potterv  and 
tiles.  The  colours  of  the  tiles  sure  burnt 
in,  and  they  are  set  in  hard  mortar. 
Over  the  noble  entrance  is  written  in 
Persian,  "  Remove  thy  heart  from  the 
gardens  of  the  world,  and  know  that 
this  building  is  the  true  abode  of  man. " 
It  was  completed  in  the  reign  of  Shah 
Jehan.  The  architect  was  Hidayatu 
'Hah,  the  faithful  servant  of  Vazir 
Ehan.  In  the  centre  front  of  the 
mosQue  is  the  Moslem  creed,  and  in 
panels  along  the  fa9ade  are  beautifully 
written  verses  from  the  Koran.  A 
Persian  inscription  gives  the  date  1646 
A.D.  From  the  gallery  round  the 
minaret,  about  3  ft.  broad,  there  is  a 
very  tine  view  over  the  oily,  which  is 
truly  Oriental  and  picturesaue. 

Leaving  the  mosque  of  Vazir  Ehan, 
and  proceeding  along  a  street  remark- 
able for  balconies  richly  carved,  the 
visitor  will  come  to  the  Sonai  Mosjid, 
or  Golden  Mosque,  which  has  three  gilt 
domes,  and  was  built  in  1753  A.D.  by 
Bikhwari  Ehan,  a  favourite  of  the 
widow  of  Mir  Mannu,  a  lady  who 
governed  Lahore  some  time  after  her 
husband's  death.  He  is  said  to  have 
displeased  the  lady,  whose  female  attend- 
ants beat  him  to  death  with  their  ahoes. 
The  situation  of  this  mo8(|ue  at  the 
junction  of  two  streets  is  picturesqee. 

In  a  courtyard  behind  the  mosque  is 
a  large  well,  with  steps  descending  to 
the  water's  edge.   It  is  said  to  have  been 

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kg  by  Aijan,  the  fifth  Guru.  Passing 
ilong  the  narrow  winding  street,  the 
risitor  will  now  come  to  an  open  space 
called  the  Hira  Mandi,  whence  is  a  fine 
riew  of  the  Fort  and  the  JummaMusjid; 
and  turning  to  the  right,  under  a  gate- 
way between  the  fort  and  the  mosuue, 
he  will  enter  the  pretty  garden  called 
the  Hazuri  Bagh.  On  the  rt.  (E.  side)  is 
the  high  crenellated  wall  of  the  Fort,  and 
in  its  centre  is  the  Akbari  Darwazah 
(or  Hazuri  Bagh  Gate),  built  by  the 
Emperor  Akbar.  It  was  formerly  the 
entrance  to  the  citadel,  but  is  now  closed. 
The  towers  of  this  building  will  attract 
attention  by  the  peculiarity  of  their  de- 
sign. The  Hazuri  Bagh  forms  an  outer 
court  to  the  mosque.  In  its  centre  is  the 
Barahdari,  a  beautiful  pavilion,  built  by 
Ranjlt  with  white  marble  taken  from  the 
tombfi  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir  and  the 
Empress  Kur  Jehan  at  Shahdara. 

On  the  farther  (W. )  side  of  it  is  the 
Jumma  Musjid,  raised  on  a  lofty  plat- 
form supported  by  arches.  A  vast  flight 
of  steps  leads  up  to  the  gate  of  the 
mosque.  In  a  chamber  above  the 
archway  are  preserved  the  dusty  relics 
of  the  Prophet  and  his  family.  They 
consist  of  turbans  of  'All  and  of  his 
sons  Hasan  and  Husain,  a  cap  with 
Arabic  writing  on  it,  the  prayer-carpet 
of  Fatima,  a  slipper  of  Mohammed,  and 
the  mark  of  his  foot  impressed  in  a 
ttone.  There  are  also  a  vestment  of 
the  Prophet,  his  prayer-carpet,  and  a 
sreen  turban.  Besides  these  there  is  a 
hair  of  the  Prophet's  beard,  of  a  red 
colour.  There  were  a  dozen  formerly, 
but  aU  have  perished  except  this  one. 
There  is  also  some  red  earth  from  Kar- 
bala.  There  is  a  decayed  tooth,  which 
is  said  to  have  belonged  to  one  of  the 
Imams.  The  mosque  was  built  by 
Aurangzeb  with  the  lunds  derived  from 
the  confiscated  estates  of  his  eldest 
brother  Dara  Shikoh,  whom  he  killed. 
It  has  consequently  never  been  liked 
as  a  place  of  prayer.  The  revenues  of 
Mooltan  were  assijgned  for  its  support. 
Over  the  entrance  is  written  the  Moslem 
creed,  and  then  in  Persian  the  date 
=  1674. 

Of  the  four  minarets,  all  of  which 
are  disfigured  by  the  loss  of  one  story, 
only  that  to  the  S.W.  is  open.     The 


cupolas  were  so  much  injured  by  an 
earthquake  that  it  was  necessary  to  take 
them  down. 

The  mosque  is  built  of  red  sandstone, 
and  the  facade  of  the  mosque  proper  is 
beautifully  adorned  with  white  marble 
flowers.  It  has  1  large  and  10  smaller 
archways  facing  the  court,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  3  white  marble  domes. 

The  mosque  is  now  very  much  ne- 
glected, from  the  reasons  above  de- 
scribed. Ranjit  Sing  made  a  magazine 
of  it.  Its  magnificent  proportions  excite 
admiration,  and  the  quadrangle  being 
overshadowed  by  fine  trees  produces  an 
unusual  and  very  pleasing  effect.  It 
was  not  till  1856  that  the  mosque  was 
restored  to  the  Mohammedans  as  a  place 
of  worship. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  Hazm*i  Bagh 
are  the  cremation  places  of  Ranjit,  the 
Samadh  of  Khark  Sing,  and  of  Nau 
Nihal  Sing. 

The  glittering  white  building  rather 
out  of  keeping  with  the  solemn  mosque, 
its  neighbour,  is  the  Ranjit  Sing's 
Samadh,  restored  in  part  1840.  It 
faces  the  W.  wall  of  the  Fort,  and  is 
a  square  stucco  building  on  a  high 

Slatt'orm  of  marble.  The  ceilings  are 
ecorated  with  traceries  in  stucco  mlaid 
with  mirrors.  The  arches  of  the  interior 
are  of  marble,  but  strengthened  with 
brick  and  chunam,  and  clamped  with 
iron,  by  order  of  Sir  D.  M  *Leod  when 
Lieut -Governor  of  the  Panjab.  In  the 
centre  is  a  raised  platform  of  marble,  on 
which  is  a  lotus  flower  carved  in  marble, 
surrounded  by  eleven  smaller  flowers. 
The  central  flower  covers  the  ashes  of 
Ranjit ;  the  others  those  of  four  wives 
and  seven  concubines  who  became  satis 
and  underwent  cremation  with  his 
corpse. 

N.  of  this  mausoleum,  and  by  the 
side  of  the  road  leading  from  the 
Roshanai  Gate  to  the  plain,  outside 
the  Fort,  is  the  Shrine  of  Axjan,  the 
fifth  Guru,  and  compiler  of  the  Adi 
Graittk,  which  is  read  in  Ran  jit's  Sam- 
adh daily,  in  a  huge  volume  over  which 
attendants  reverently  wave  ehauries. 

Facing  this  building  is  the  Roshanai 
Gate  of  the  Fort.  A  steep  incline, 
made  by  the  English,  leads  into  the 
interior,  but  before  ascending  it,  the 

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attention  of  the  visitor  will  be  arrested 
by  the  peculiar  decoration  of  the  walls 
of  the  Palace  of  Akbar,  which  faces 
him.  The  facade  is  inlaid  with  a 
mosaic  of  encaustic  tiles,  representing 
grotesque  figures  of  men,  horses,  and 
elephants,  engaged  in  hunting,  and 
also  the  angeu,  who,  according  to  old 
Persian  mythology,  preside  over  the 
days  and  months.  In  spandrels  over 
arcaded  compartments  in  front  of  the 
part  of  the  palace  attributed  to  Jehan- 
gir  are  four  representations  of  the  rising 
sun.  Other  spandrels  show  cherubs 
like  those  in  Christian  churches, 
which  were  perhaps  borrowed  from  the 
Jesuit  church  established  by  Portuguese 
missionaries  at  Lahore.  In  support  of 
this  it  may  be  said  that  Bemier  men- 
tions that  Jehangir,  in  compliment  to 
the  missionaries,  placed  an  image  of  the 
Virgin  in  a  prominent  position.  It  is 
worth  while  walking  round  the  walls 
to  the  1.  to  study  these  designs. 

The  Palace  of  Akbar  is  on  the  ex- 
treme £.  of  the  Fort.  To  it  succeeds 
a  part  built  by  Jehangir,  and  then  a 
curtain  wall  between  two  hexagonal 
towers  ascribed  to  Shah  Jehan,  to 
which  Aurangzib  and  the  Sikhs  made 
additions. 

Near  the  top  of  the  incline,  L,  is  the 
Moti  MuBjid,  or  Pearl  Mosque,  of  white 
marble,  with  three  domes.  Over  the 
arched  entrance  into  the  outer  court  are 
a  Persian  inscription  and  date  corre- 
sponding to  1598  A.D.  The  inner  door 
has  four  large  padlocks  and  four  strong 
chains.  Ranjit  Sinch  kept  his  treasure 
here,  and  the  British  use  it  for  the  same 
purpose.  Several  sentries  are  posted 
in  tne  inner  court,  in  the  passage,  and 
at  the  outer  door. 

Proceeding  to  the  E.,  the  visitor  will 
come  to  a  small  Sikh  temple  built  by 
the  order  of  Dulip  Sing's  mother. 

Close  to  the  Moti  Mnsjid  is  the  Shish 
Mahal,  or  Palace  of  Mirrors,  which  is 
the  joint  work  of  Shah  Jehan  and 
Aurangzib.  The  E.  wall  of  this  building 
did  not  exist  in  Banjit  Singh's  time,  and 
there  was  an  extensive  court  into  which 
he  used  to  pass  from  the  Moti  Mosque, 
through  a  handsome  folding -door 
studded  with  gUt  bosses. 

In  the  centre  of  the  W.  side  of  the 


quadrangle  is  a  beautiful  white  marble 
pavilion  called  Nan  Lakha,  as  it  is 
said  to  have  cost  9  lakhs  or  900,000  rs. 
This  beautiful  work  of  art  is  inlaid 
after  the  fashion  so  well  known  at 
Agra.  Between  the  pillars  on  the  S. 
side  of  the  quadrangle  walls  have  been 
erected,  and  thus  an  Armoury  (see 
below)  has  been  formed. 

The  Shish  Mahal  was  the  place  where 
the  sovereignty  of  the  Pan  jab  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  British  Government.  Here 
too  Ranjit  Singh  held  his  receptions. 
In  the  small  rooms  leading  to  the  upper 
tower  the  ceilings  are  cut  into  geo- 
metrical patterns.  These  paintings  and 
the  mirror  work  with  which  the  walls 
and  ceilings  are  ornamented  were 
done  by  the  Sikhs,  and  ill  agree  with 
the  chaste  beauty  of  the  Mogul  archi- 
tecture. The  windows  look  out  to- 
wards the  Badami  Oa/rden  to  the  K. 
On  this  plain  Ranjit  Singh  used  to  hold 
reviews.  There  used  to  be  fountains 
in  the  centre  of  the  quadrangle,  and 
their  basin  still  remains.  In  the  inlaid 
work  of  the  pavilion  there  were  formerly 
valuable  stones,  but  these  have  been 
ail  picked  out. 

In  the  Armoury  the  visitor  will  re- 
mark the  round  shield  of  Guru  Govind. 
It  is  of  rhinoceros  hide,  and  has  a 
single  bo83.  His  battle-axe  is  also 
shown,  the  blade  of  which  is  of 
fine  Damascus  steel.  Here  too  will 
be  seen  the  arms  taken  from  the  Sikhs 
by  the  English  ;  some  of  the  helmets 
are  inscriMd  Akal  Sipahi.  The  long 
gauntleted  swords  are  merely  nsed  in 
fencing.  There  are  many  cuirasses 
which  belonged  to  the  regiments  com- 
manded by  French  officers,  with  brass 
cocks  upon  them.  There  are  also  rings 
of  steel  which  were  used  as  missiles  in 
war,  particularly  by  the  Akalis.  The 
crests  of  these  soldiers,  called  Jikars, 
in  the  shape  of  a  bar  passing  through 
two  semicircles,  and  crowned  with  a 
ball,  are  exhibited.  There  are  also 
some  cannon  with  barrels  which  turn 
like  those  of  a  revolver,  and  a  number 
of  camel  guns  and  an  obus,  inscribed 
in  Persian,  **Fath  ya  shahid,  1816. 
Victory  or  death."  Many  coats  of 
mail  will  also  be  observed. 

Parallel  with  the  tower  of  the  Shish 


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lahal  was  another  tower  called  Saman 
lorj,  of  great  height 

Pass  now  in  an  E.  direction  to  the 
Nwaa-i-Ehas.  It  is  a  beautiful  build- 
ing of  white  marble,  supported  on  32 
(olumns,  and  is  now  used  by  the  English 
IS  a  church.  There  is  an  aperture  in 
the  Jali  or  perforated  screen,  on  the  N., 
tbout  2  ft.  sq.,  at  which  the  Emperor 
sat  and  heard  his  Arzbegi  read  the 
petitions,  from  the  roof  of  a  building 
now  rained,  24  ft.  below. 

To  theE.  of  this  is  the  AkbarlMahal, 
an  ornamented  Hindu  pavilion,  now 
used  as  the  apothecary's  quarters. 

From  the  Diwan-i-Ehas  67  steps  lead 
down  to  the  ditch  between  the  outer 
wall  and  the  N.  wall  of  the  palace  ; 
about  20  yds.  from  this  you  pass  S.  to 
the  Khwabgah-i-Kalan^  which  is  of  red 
sandstone,  but  has  been  whitewashed. 
The  architraves  of  the  pillars  are  well 
carved  in  the  Hindu  fashion  with  repre- 
sentations of  elephants  and  birds,  as 
are  also  those  of  the  Akbari  Mahal. 

Near  the  centre  of  the  Fort  is  the 
IKwaa-i-'Am  (now  used  as  barracks). 
The  building  is  of  red  sandstone, 
supported  in  the  centre  by  12  columns. 
The  outer  arches  have  been  filled  in  to 
form  walls,  and  the  whole  has  been 
whitewashed.  In  the  centre  is  the 
Takhtgah,  or  "throne  place,'*  where 
the  Emperor  sat.  The  ascent  is  by  12 
steps,  and  there  are  several  rooms  be- 
hind. In  the  front  of  the  building  are 
the  remains  of  a  red  sandstone  railing, 
inside  which  only  the  nobles  could  come. 
'^.  of  this,  where  now  stands  a  clump 
of  trees,  was  a  tomb,  out  of  which  a 
holy  man  used  to  warn  the  Emperor 
that  he  was  mortal. 

To  the  E.  is  the  Hospital,  a  building 
which  was  erected  by  Chand  Kauwar 
for  her  residence,  and  there  she  was 
confined  by  order  of  Sher  Sing,  and 
put  to  death  according  to  his  commands 
by  her  hand  maidens.  E.  of  the  Diwan- 
i-'Am  and  adjoining  it  is  the  house  of 
Sher  Sing,  which  was  four  stories  high, 
but  only  two  now  remain. 

The  Central  Prison,  S.  of  Govern- 
ment House,  and  at  the  extreme  S.  of 
the  Civil  Station,  is  one  of  the  best 
managed  in  India,  and  is  capable  of 


holding  2276  prisoners.  It  is  unneces- 
sary to  describe  the  building. 

During  the  Mutiny,  80,000  cartridges 
were  made  by  convict  mutineers,  besides 
thousands  of  sandbags  for  the  siege  of 
Delhi.  The  most  notable  manufac- 
tures in  the  prison  are  rugs  and  carpets. 
The  carpets  (only  made  to  order)  re- 
semble those  of  Persia,  and  tradesmen 
in  London  and  America  purchase  them 
annually  to  a  large  value. 

In  the  Lawrence  Gardens,  which 
cover  112  acres,  are  large  varieties  of  trees 
and  shrubs  of  diflferent  species.  The 
visitor  will  remark  the  Pinus  loTigifoliay 
the  Australian  gum  tree,  and  the  carob 
tree  of  Syria.   There  is  also  a  menagerie. 

At  the  N.  side  is  the  Lawrence  Hall, 
built  in  memory  of  Sir  J.  Lawrence  in 
1862,  fronting  the  road  ;  and  the  Mont- 
gomery Hall,  built  in  1866,  in  memory 
of  Sir  R.  Montgomery,  facing  the  central 
avenue  of  the  gardens.  A  covered 
corridor  connects  them.  Montgomery 
Hall  contains  portraits  of  Sir  Henry 
Lawrence  and  tne  Lt. -Governors  of  the 
Province,  and  other  celebrated  Anglo- 
Indians. 

Ooyemment  Honse  is  at  no  great  dis- 
tance from  the  Lawrence  Gardens  to 
the  N.  It  was  the  tomb  of  Muhammad 
Easim  Khan,  cousin  of  the  Emperor 
Akbar.  He  was  a  great  patron  of 
wrestlers,  and  his  tomb  used  to  be  called 
Kushtewdla  Qwmhaz^  or  Wrestler's 
Dome.  There  are  some  noble  trees  in 
the  grounds,  and  a  good  swimming  bath. 

Near  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  Civil 
Station  is  a  building  called  Chauburj, 
**  Four  Towers,"  which  has  been  a  gate- 
way to  a  garden,  with  4  minars,  whence 
its  name.  This  beautiful  building  is 
faced  with  blue  and  green  encaustic 
tiles.  The  greater  part  of  the  dome 
has  fallen. 

Expeditions  from  Lahore. 

Shalimar  Gardens  are  6  m.  E.  from 
the  milestone  near  the  Tanksal  Gate  of 
Lahore,  whence  the  measurements  are 
made  to  Peshawar  and  other  places. 
About  J  m.  before  reaching  them  is  the 
gateway  to  the  Golabi  Bagh  or  Rose 
Garden,  laid  out  in  1656  by  Sultan 
Beg,  Admiral  of  the  fleet  to  Shah  Jehan. 

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ROUTE  12.       ITMBALLA  TO  LAHORE 


India 


The  Nakkashi  work  of  coloured  tiles 
on  the  gate  is  very  beautiful,  and  hardly 
inferior  to  that  on  Vazir  Khan's  Mosque. 
On  the  gateway  is  inscribed  in  Persian  : 

Sweet  Is  this  garden,  through  envy  of  which 
the  tulip  is  spotted, 

The  rose  of  the  sun  and  moon  forms  its  beauti- 
ful lamp. 

Opposite  to  the  Qulabi  Bagh,  across 
a  field,  is  the  Tomb  of  'All  Mardan 
Khan,  the  celebrated  engineer,  who  also 
laid  out  the  Shalimar  Gardens.  Its 
lofty  archway  retains  traces  of  ex- 
quisitely coloured  tiles.  Fifty  yds.  S. 
of  this  is  the  octagonal  tomb  of  'Ali 
Mardan,  built  of  brick. 

There  are  many  dargahs  and  gardens, 
to  which  on  holidays  crowds  of  people 
go  on  pilgrimage. 

The  ShcUlmar  Gardens  were  laid  out 
in  1687  A.D.  by  order  of  Shah  Jehan. 
They  are  divided  into  three  parts, 
in  tiers  of  various  levels.  The  whole 
extent  is  about  80  acres,  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  with  a  large  gateway  and 
pavilions  at  each  corner.  Canals  tra- 
verse the  garden,  and  there  is  a  tank 
in  the  centre,  with  an  island  and  a 
passage  across  to  it.  There  are  100 
small  fountains  in  the  first  garden,  and 
double  that  number  in  the  tank.  The 
trees  are  chiefly  mangoes,  and  the 
garden  is  laid  out  in  monotonous  square 
beds.  Once,  when  the  cement  was  in- 
tact and  the  frescoes  new,  it  must  have 
been  a  very  pretty  place,  but  now  it  is 
decayed  and  shabby. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  are 
two  other  gardens,  the  Sindanwalas 
and  Misr  Birj  Lai's ;  and  to  the  £. 
there  is  also  Jamadar  Ehushhal  Sing's 
garden,  and  across  the  road  to  the  N.E. 
Lehna  Sing's. 


The  military  cantonment  of  Meean 
Meer  is  situated  5  m.  to  the  S.E.  of 
the  Civil  Station. 

The  cantonment  contains  a  garrison 
of  1  Brit,  regt.,  2  batteries,  2  native 
line  regiments,  and  1  native  cavalry. 

About  I  m.  to  the  N.W.,  on  the  rt. 
of  the  road  leading  to  the  cantonment 
is  the  Shrine  of  Meean  Meer^  a  saint 
from  whom  the  cantonment  has  its 
name.  It  stands  in  the  centre  of  a 
quadrangle,  200  ft.   sq.,  on  a  marble 


platform.  Ranjit  took  away  much  of 
the  marble  for  his  barahdari  in  the 
Hazuri  Bagh,  and  to  make  amends 
had  the  inside  painted  with  flowers. 
Over  the  entrance  are  an  inscription  in 
Persian  and  date = 1 636  A.  d.  The  left 
side  of  the  enclosure  is  occupied  by  a 
mosque. 

Returning  towards  the  city,  the 
traveller  will  pass  on  the  right  the 
village  of  Shahu-ki-Ohuri,  where  are  a 
number  of  laree  tombs,  some  with 
cupolas,  but  all  more  or  less  ruined. 
W;  of  the  village,  at  300  yds.  from  the 
main  road,  is  the  most  venerated  tomb 
in  Lahore  or  its  vicinity.  It  is  called 
the  Tomb  of  Bibi  Pakdamaa,  ''The 
Chaste  Ladies."  This  saint  was  the 
daughter  of  the  younger  brother  of  'AU 
by  a  difierent  mother.  Her  real  name 
was  Rukiyah  Khanum,  and  she  was 
the  eldest  of  six  sisters,  who  are  all 
buried  here,  and  who  fled  with  her  to 
Baghdad,  after  the  massacre  at  Kar- 
bala ;  she  died  in  728  A.D.,  at  the  age 
of  90.  The  road  is  narrow  and  bad. 
The  place  is  remarkable  for  a  number  of 
very  old  Wanr  trees.  It  is  expected 
that  the  visitor  will  take  off  his  shoes. 
There  are  five  enclosures,  and  the  tomb 
of  Rukiyah  is  in  the  fifth.  It  is  of  briclc, 
whitewashed. 

Shah  Dara  is  situated  beyond  the 
Bridge  of  Boats  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Ravi,  about  IJ  m.  to  tlie  N.  of  the 
railway  bridge  over  that  river.  The 
journey  by  rail  is  6  m.  to  the  Shah 
Dara  sta. ,  from  which  the  Tomb  of  the 
Emperor  Jehangir  is  IJ  m.  It  is  more 
convenient  to  go  in  a  carriage  (about 
64  m.  drive). 

After  crossing  the  railwav  a 
domed  building  will  be  passed  on 
the  1.  This  is  the  tomb  of  Asif 
Khan  (see  below);  and  shortly  after 
an  enclosure  will  be  entered  which  has 
been  the  sarai  or  outer  court  of  the 
mausoleum.  An  archway  of  white 
marble,  and  50  ft  high,  leads  into  the 
court  of  the  mausoleum,  which  forms 
a  garden.  The  passage  to  the  tomb  is 
paved  with  beautifully  sti-eaked  marble 
nrom  Jeypore  and  other  places.  The 
cenotaph  is  of  white  marble,  inlaid  with 
pietra  dura  work,  and  stands  in  the 
centre  of  an  octagonal  chamber.    On 


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ROUTE  13.      LAHORE  TO  PESHAWAR 


207 


tie  £.  and  W,  sides  are  the  99  names 
of  God,  most  beautifully  carved,  and  on 
iQ  S.  side  is  inscribed,  "  The  Glorious 
lomb  of  His  High  Majesty,  Asylum 
i  Protectors,  Nuru-din  Muhammad, 
fte  Emperor  Jehangir,"  1627  a.d.  On 
tie  four  sides  are  exquisite  screens  of 
kttice-work. 

Just  outside  the  entrance,  and  to  the 
right  of  it,  is  a  staircase  which  leads  up 
to  the  flat  square  roof  of  the  building, 
covered  with  a  magnificent  tessellated 
pavement.  At  eacn  comer  is  a  min- 
aret, 95  ft  high  from  the  platform.  A 
marble  parapet  ran  round  the  pave- 
ment»  but  was  taken  awav  by  iUnjit 
Siogh ;  it  is  being  gradually  restored. 
The  minarets  are  four  stories  high, 
and  are  built  of  magnificent  blocks  of 
stone  8  ft.  long.  I?om  the  top  there 
is  a  fine  view  to  the  S.E.  over  the  Ravi 
to  the  city. 

The  Tomb  of  Asaf  Khan,  brother  of 
the  Empress  Nur  Jchan,  stands  in  an 
enclosure  immediately  to  the  W.  of  the 
sarai.  It  is  an  octagon  surmounted 
by  a  dome.  It  has  been  utterly  ruined 
and  almost  entirely  stripped  of  the 
lovely  Nakkashi  work  which  once 
adorned  it.  In  the  portals  some  frag- 
ments still  remain  to  show  how  glori- 
ous it  once  was.  The  cenotaph  is  of 
white  marble.  The  Tughra  writing  on 
it  is  extremely  fine,  and  resembles  that 
on  the  tomb  of  Jehangir. 

Before  crossing  the  railway,  is  seen  r. 
the  tomb  of  Nur  Jehan,  wife  of  Jehan- 
gir, a  plain  building  of  one  story,  with 
loor  main  arches  and  eight  oblong 
openings  in  the  centre,  with  three  rows 
of  arches  beyond.    It  is  in  ruins. 

18  UL  W.  of  Lahore  is  Shekohpura, 
the  hunting-seat  of  Dara  Shikoh,  the 
eldest  brother  of  Aurangzib. 

The  road  crosses  the  bridge  over  the 
Kavi,  and  at  about  4  m.  enters  a  dreary 
tract  of  long  grass  and  iungle.  A 
bridge  over  the  Bagh  Bachcha,  a  branch 
of  the  Bavi,  is  then  passed.  At  Man- 
diali  Road  Chauki  there  is  a  good  D.B., 
standing  100  yds.  back  from  the  road 
on  the  rt.,  with  a  pretty  little  garden. 
Here  horses  are  changed. 

On  the  1.  of  the  road  is  a  garden - 
Iwwse,  built  by  Rani  Nakyana,  queen 
of  Ranjit  Sing.     At  the  S.W.  comer  of 


the  garden  is  her  Samadhf  an  octagonal 
building.  The  walls  are  painted  with 
Hindu  mythological  pictures.  That  in 
front  is  of  Krishna  dancing  the  Ras 
mandal  with  the  Gopis.  Over  the  door 
is  a  picture  of  the  ten  Gurus,  with  an 
inscription.  Across  the  road  is  a  veiy 
clean  and  comfoitable  house  which  be- 
longs to  the  Raja,  and  is  lent  by  him 
to  travellers. 

The  village  of  Shekohpura  contains 
a  fine  old  fort. 

There  is  good  shooting  here.  About 
3  m.  from  the  town  is  a  large  tank 
surrounded  by  flights  of  steps  with  a 
three-storied  barcMari  in  the  centre. 
A  tall  minaret  stands  near  an  entrance 
gateway  N.  of  the  tank. 


ROUTE  13 

Lahore  to  Peshawar  (N.W.  Rly.) 

Lahore  to  Peshawar  is  278  m.  by  the 
North-Western  Railway,  and  the  time 
occupied  in  transit  17  hours. 

5  m.  Shah  Dara  sta.  The  tomb  of 
the  Emperor  Jehangir,  1 J  m.  off,  is  de- 
scribed on  p.  206. 

42  m.  Gnjranwala  sta.  (R.)  D.B. 
This  is  the  birthplace  of  Ranjit  Singh. 
At  J  m.  beyond  the  station  is  the 
Samadho/Maha  Sing,  father  of  the  great 
Ranjit.  It  is  an  octagonal  building,  81 
ft.  high  to  the  top  of  the  gilt  ornament 
on  the  sunmiit.  Within  are  the  sculp- 
tured rosettes  or  knobs  which  mark 
where  the  ashes  are  deposited.  The  large 
rosette  surrounded  by  twelve  smaller 
ones,  is  inscribed  Sarkar  Ranjit  Sing. 
That  nearest  the  entrance  is  in  memorj' 
of  a  blue  pigeon  that  fell  down  into 
the  flames  in  which  Ranjit  and  his  con- 
cubines were  being  consumed.  Other 
rosettes  mark  the  ashes  of  Maha  Sing 
Padshah,  Maharaj  Sher  Sing,  and  Sarkar 
Nau  Nihal  Sing  JL  There  is  a  narrow 
but  lofty  pavilion,  covered  with  mytho- 
logical pictures,  among  which  is  one  re- 
presenting Dury^odhana  ordering  Drau- 
padi  to  be  stripped  As  fast  as  the 
clothes  were  pulM  off  her  shewas  super- 
naturally  re-clothed.     At  100  yards  to 

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208 


ROUTE  13.      LAHORE  TO  PESHAWAR 


India 


the  E.  is  the  payilion  of  Maha  Sing,  a 
handsome  building,  now  used  as  the  read- 
ing and  meetine  room  of  the  Anjuman 
of  the  town.  Close  to  the  market-place 
is  the  honse  where  Ra^jit  was  bom. 

N.E.  of  the  town  is  the  Barahdarif 
or  payilion,  of  Ranjit's  famous  general, 
Hari  Sing.  It  stands  in  40  acres  of 
garden  and  grounds.  To  the  £.  is  a 
pavilion  12  ft.  hi^h,  full  of  small 
niches  for  lamps.  On  the  E.  wall  is  a 
painting  of  warriors  and  elephants, 
now  almost  gone.  At  70  yds.  to  the 
N.  of  the  house  is  the  samadh  of  Hari 
Sing.  A  number  of  trees  have  grown 
through  the  platform  and  are  breaking 
it  up.  At  the  S.  W.  comer  is  a  pavilion 
in  which  countless  green  parrots  have 
their  nests.  The  place  where  the  ashes 
lie  is  marked  by  a  knob  shaped  like  a 
budding  flower.  There  are  no  scUi 
knobs.  The  first  picture  on  the  wall 
inside  is  a  portrait  of  Hari  Sing  hawk- 
ing, with  a  string  of  ducks  passing 
over  his  head.  The  district  is  famous 
for  oranges. 

62  m.  Wazirabad  juuc.  8ta.(R.),  D.B. 
(15, 200  inhab. )  From  here  a  line  runs 
N.E.  to  SialM  and /ttm??wo  (see  below). 
This  place,  founded  by  Wazir  Khan  in 
the  reisn  of  Shah  Jehan,  became,  under 
the  nue  of  Ranjit  Singh,  the  head- 
quarters of  General  A  vitabile,  who  built 
a  completely  new  town  on  the  plan  of 
a  parallelogram,  and  surrounded  by  a 
wall.  A  broad  bazaar  runs  from  end 
to  end.  Close  to  the  town  is  one  of 
the  most  famous  gardens  in  the  Panjab, 
laid  out  by  Dewan  Thakur  Das  Chopra. 
At  Wazirabad  is  ^the  great  Alexandra 
Bridge  over  the*  Chenab,  opened  in 
1876  by  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

The  Chenab  is  here  a  most  difficult 
stream  to  deal  with.  The  floods  rise 
11  ft  above  low-water  level,  and  the 
velocity  of  the  current  then  exceeds 
10  m.  an  hour.  The  stream  is  more 
than  50  ft.  deep,  and  drives  the  sand 
in  all  directions  ;  but  the  training  works 
in  connection  with  the  bridge  have 
modified  the  action  of  the  river  and 
confined  it. 

[An  expedition  may  be  made  by 
branch  line  from  Wazirabad  to 

27  m.  Sialkot  sta.,  D.  B.  A  town  with 


military  station  1  m.  N.  (inhab.  55,000). 
The  Chwrch  is  a  striking  object,  having 
a  steeple  150  ft.  hi^h.  There  is  also  a 
fort.    The  rly.  continues  to 

52  m.  Jnmmoo  sta.,  D.B.  This  is 
the  winter  capital  of  the  Jummoo  and 
Cashmere  state,  which  extends  over 
an  area  of  79,783  sq.  m.,  with  a  pop. 
(1891)  of  2,507,240  persons.  See 
Cashmere,  p.  215. 

The  Old  Palace  at  Jummoo,  at  the 
E.,  close  to  the  city  wall,  has  no  pre- 
tensions to  beauty.  It  is  entered  by 
a  laree  irregular  G[uadrangle,  on  the 
rt  side  of  which  is  a  vast  reception- 
room.  The  verandah  of  the  smidl 
dining-room  overlooks  the  Tavi,  and 
beyond  the  river  are  hills  covered  with 
jungle,  in  which  are  many  wild  beasta 

To  the  N.  W.  of  the  city  is  a  Pagoda 
covered  with  plates  of  copper-gilt  A 
little  to  the  E.  of  it  is  the  new  palace 
which  was  built  for  the  Prince  of  Wales's 
visit.  Close  by  to  the  E.  is  the  old 
parade-ground,  with  the  hospital  and 
college  to  the  S.E.  The  Oumit  OaU- 
way  is  that  by  which  the  city  is 
entered  from  the  S.  in  coming  from  the 
river  Tavi.  A  short  distance  before 
reaching  it  is  the  chief  temple.  2  m. 
S.  of  this  gate  is  a  fine  garden  be- 
longing to  the  Maharaja.  From  the 
Gumit  Gate  there  is  a  descent  of  70  ft. 
down  a  rough  road  paved  with  stones, 
then  the  path  lies  through  thick  wooda 

The  much  frequented  trade-route  to 
Srinagar  and  the  Cashmere  valley  starts 
from  Jummoo  (see  Rte.  13  a). 

71  m.  Oujrat  sta.  This  pretty  town 
is  the  administrative  headquarters  of 
a  district  of  the  same  name.  The 
town  (18,000  inhab.)  stands  on  the 
ancient  site  of  2  earlier  cities.  The 
second,  according  to  General  Cunning- 
ham, was  destroyed  in  1303  A.D.  Two 
centuries  after  this  Sher  Shah  was  in 
possession  of  the  country,  and  either 
he  or  Akbar  founded  the  present  town. 
Akbar's  fort  stands  in  the  centre  of 
the  town.  It  was  first  garrisoned  by 
Gujars,  and  took  the  name  of  Gigrat 
Akbarabad.  Akbar's  administrative 
records  are  still  preserved  in  the  fami- 
lies of  the  hereditary  registrars.     In 

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ROUTE  13.      GUJRAT 


209 


1X1  the  Ghakkars  established  them- 
8^  at  Gnjrat,  and  in  1765  the 
SkhB  acquired  the  coantry.  The  Civil 
Sation,  in  which  is  the  D.B.,  lies  to 
tie  N.  During  the  reign  of  Shah 
Jbban,  Gnjrat  became  the  residence  of 
afamons  saint,  Pir  Shah  Daulah,  who 
domed  it  with  numerous  buildings. 
lere  are  a  Church  of  Scotland  Mission 
Church  and  Schools. 
TheBattle-field—Thedecisiye  battle 
of  Gujrat  was  fought  on  the  ^Ist  of 
February  1 849.  The  village  of  Kalra  is 
2 J  m.  S.  of  the  D.  B.  It  was  the  key  of 
the  Sikh  position.  It  is  a  village  of 
70  houses  in  a  flat  plain,  where  there 
are  no  natural  advantages  to  assist 
an  army  in  maintaining  its  position. 
Thence  the  Sikhs  retreated  round  the 
W.  and  N.  sides  of  the  town  of  Gujrat. 
Lord  Gouojh's  camp  on  the  18th  and 
19th  of  February  was  9  m.  to  the  S.  of 
Gujrat,  near  the  Chenab  river.  Thence 
he  advanced  with  seven  brigades  of 
infantry  and  a  body  of  cavalry  on 
each  flank. 

The  advance  began  at  7  a.m.  The 
artillery  went  to  the  front  and  poured 
their  fire  on  the  Sikh  army,  which  was 
drawn  up  a  little  to  the  N.  of  Kalra, 
and  consisted  of  six  brigades  of  infantry, 
with  59  guns,  and  four  great  bodies  of 
Sikh  cavalry,  with  4000  Afghan  horse 
{whereas  the  English  army  consisted  of 
25,000  and  nearly  100  guns).  The 
heavy  English  guns  opened  on  the 
Sikhs  at  1000  yds.  and  crashed  their 
lighter  metal.  As  the  Sikh  fire  ceased, 
tlie  English  field  batteries  were  con- 
stantly pushed  forward.  By  11.30  a.m. 
no8t  of  the  Sikh  guns  had  been  with- 
drawn, dismounted,  or  abandoned. 
The  British  infantry  then  advanced, 
deployed,  and  carried  the  position. 

Next  day  General  Gilbert,  with 
12,000  men,  pursued  the  enemy,  and 
at  Rawal  Pindi  received  the  submission 
of  the  entire  Sikh  army.  Thus  ended 
the  second  Sikh  war. 

In  the  cemetery  at  Shah  Jehcmgir, 
called  after  a  Fakir  of  that  name,  are 
the  tombs  of  those  who  fell  in  the 
battle.  Beyond  to  the  E.  are  two 
mosques,  one  of  which  is  rather  remark- 
•hle.  Gujrat  is  one  of  the  starting 
pUces  for  Cashmere.  (See  Rte.  13a.) 
\India'\ 


83  m.  Lala  Mum  junc.  sta.  (R.)  A 
branch  line  runs  W.  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Jhelum  river  to  Kundian  junc. 
on  the  Sind-Saugar  lUy.  (Rte.  14).  A 
traveller  having  time  at  his  disposal 
can  from  this  line  visit  the  battle-field 
of  Chilianwala,  the  salt-mines  near 
Find  Dadan  Khan,  and  the  fountain 
and  temples  at  Katas. 

103  m.  Jhelum  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  is  a 
modem  municipal  town,  and  the  admin- 
istrative headquarters  of  a  district  of 
the  same  name,  but  appears  to  have  been 
built  on  an  ancient  site.  The  Civil 
lines  and  Cantonment  lie  1  m.  E.  and 
W.  of  the  town  respectively.  Many 
ancient  pillars  have  been  dug  up  near 
the  rly.  sta.,  and  amongst  them  one 
with  a  human  face  in  the  Greek  style, 
which  is  now  in  the  Lahore  Museum. 
One  is  to  be  seen  in  the  railway 
engineer's  compound.  Jhelum  is  also  a 
starting  place  for  Cashmere.     Rte.  13a. 

[Rotas  is  11  m.  N.W.  of  Jhelum. 
Carriage-road  to  the  Eahan  river,  8  m., 
and  after  that  cart  track  along  the 
river,  and  below  barren  hills  200  ft. 
high  a  bridle-path.  This  famous  fort 
stands  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  gorge 
of  the  Eahan  river.  Its  walls  extend 
for  3  m.,  in  places  from  30  to  40  ft. 
thick,  and  enclose  about  260  acres.  It 
was  built  by  Sher  Shah  as  a  check  on 
the  Ghakkar  tribes. 

The  fort  is  partly  hidden  by  the 
hills,  stands  high  (130  ft.)  above  the 
ravine,  and  it  is  quite  possible  to  miss 
the  gateway,  which  is  to  the  left  of  the 
river.  The  entrance,  up  a  steep  path,  is 
by  the  Ehawas  Khan  Gate,  on  the 
N.E.  of  the  hill.  The  Suhali  Gate 
(where  is  the  D.B.)  is  on  the'S.W., 
and  is  reached  through  the  town,  with 
a  deep  fissure  on  the  It.,  and  on  the  rt. 
an  inner  wall  with  a  lofty  gateway, 
called  after  Shah  Chand  Wali.  Within 
this  stand  the  ruins  of  Man  Sing's 
palace,  built  after  he  reduced  Kabul. 
The  S.W.  comer  consists  of  a  lofty 
barahdari,  in  which  is  a  stone  finely 
carved  with  figures  of  birds,  etc.  The 
S.E.  corner  is  150  ft.  off,  and  consists 
of  a  smaller  barahdari,  about  25  ft. 
high.  The  wall  between  the  two  is 
gone.    There  were  twelve  gates  to  the 

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ROUTE  13.      LAHORE  TO  PESHAWAR 


Indfio 


fort,  but  they  are  now  nearly  all  in 
rains.  The  Shisha  Gate  (an  inner  gate) 
was  so  called  from  the  Harim's  Hall  of 
Mirrors,  which  adjoined  it.] 

157  m.  Labani  sta.  (a  flag-station 
only)  is  the  nearest  point  to  Manik- 
yala  Tope,  which  is  2  m.  distant.^ 

[Manikyala  was  first  noticed  by 
Mountstuart  Elphinstone  in  1815,  and 
afterwards  thoroughly  explored  by  Gen. 
Ventura  in  1830.  In  1834  the  stupa 
was  colored  by  Gen.  Court,  and  30 
years  after  by  Gen.  Cunningham.  The 
date  is  uncertain.  There  are  coins 
taken  from  it  of  Eanishka  and  Huvishka, 
which  date  from  the  beginning  of  the 
Christian  era,  but  with  them  was  found 
a  coin  of  Yaso  Vannma,  who  reigned 
not  earlier  than  720  a.d.,  and  many 
silver  Sassano- Arabian  coins  of  the 
same  period.  Cunningham  thinks  that 
the  stupa  may  have  been  ori^nally 
boilt  by  Huvishka,  who  deposited  coins 
of  his  own  reign  and  of  his  predecessor 
Eanishka,  and  that  the  stupa  having  be- 
come ruinous  was  rebuilt  in  its  present 
massive  form  by  Yaso-Vamima,  who 
redeposited  the  relic  caskets  with  the 
addition  of  a  gold  coin  of  himself  and 
several  contemporary  coins  of  Arab 
governors. 

The  dome  of  the  stupa  is  an  exact 
hemisphere,  127  ft.  in  diameter.  The 
outer  circle  measures  500  ft.  in  circum- 
ference, and  is  ascended  by  four  flights 
of  steps,  one  in  each  face,  leading  to  a 
procession  path  16  ft.  in  width,  orna- 
mented both  above  and  below  by  a 
range  of  dwarf  pilasters,  representing 
the  detached  rail  of  the  older  Indian 
monuments. 

Mr.  Fergusson  says  :  *'It  is,  indeed, 
one  of  the  most  marked  characteristics 
of  these  Gandhara  topes  that  none  of 
them  possess,  or  ever  seem  to  have 
possessed,  any  trace  of  an  independent 
rail ;  but  all  have  an  ornamental  belt 
of  pilasters,  joined  generally  by  arches 
simulating  the  original  rail.  This  can 
hardly  be  an  early  architectural  form, 
and  leads  to  the  suspicion  that,  in 
spite  of  their  deposits,  their  outward 

I  Cunningham's  Arch.  Rep.  vol.  ii.  p.  152 : 


casing  may  be  very  much  more  modem 
than  the  coins  they  contain." 

The  circular  gallery  which  runs 
round  the  great  stupa  is  6  ft.  2  in. 
from  the  ground,  and  10  ft.  broad. 
The  row  of  pilasters  that  go  round  the 
hemisphere  are  4  ft.  high.  The  building 
is  made  of  round  rough  stones,  a  foot 
in  diameter,  and  the  mortar  is  of  an 
inferior  kind.  The  whole  was  faced 
with  smooth  stones.  The  opening  or 
tunnel  made  by  Gen.  Ventura  is  on  the 
E.  side,  facing  the  present  path  to  Man- 
ikyala. The  stones  were  not  disturbed, 
but  the  tunnel  was  dug  under  them. 

At  2  m.  to  the  N.  of  Ventura's  tope 
is  Court's  tope.  Here  the  earth  ia  of 
a  bright  red  colour,  and  therefore 
Cunningham  identifies  this  stupa  with 
that  mentioned  by  Hiouen  Thsang  as 
**the  stupa  of  the  body-offering;" 
while  at  1000  ft  to  the  S.  of  it  is  Hiouen 
Thsang's  "  stupa  of  the  blood-offering," 
which  that  pilgrim  ignorantly  attri- 
buted to  its  being  stained  with  the 
blood  of  Buddha,  who,  according  to  a 
curious  legend,  is  said  to  have  offered 
his  body  to  appease  the  hunger  of  seven 
tiger  cubs.  The  stupa  of  the  body- 
offering  was  opened  by  Gen.  Court, 
who  found  in  a  stone  niche,  covered 
by  a  large  inscribed  slab,  three  cylindri- 
cal caskets  of  copper,  silver,  and  gold, 
each  containing  q(Adb  of  the  same  metal ; 
four  gold  coins  of  Eanerke  were  found 
in  the  gold  box  ;  in  the  silver  box  were 
seven  silver  Roman  denarii  of  the  last 
years  of  the  Republic,  the  latest  being 
M.  Antonius  IMumvir,  and  therefore 
not  earlier  than  43  b.o.  The  eight 
copper  coins  in  the  copper  box  were  all 
Indo-Scythian,  belonging  to  Eanishka 
and  his  immediate  predecessors. 

The  inscription  has  been  deciphered 
and  translated  by  Mr.  Dowson,  who 
made  out  the  date  to  be  the  eighteenth 
year  of  Eanishka,  and  that  it  was  the 
record  of  the  monastery  of  the  Huta- 
Murta,-  or  "body  oblation,"  including,  i 
of  course,  the  stupa  in  which  the  in- 1 
scription  was  found. 

Cunningham  ran  trenches  across  the 
mound,  which  now  represents  the  mon- 
astery, and  brought  to  light  the  outer 
walls  and  cells  of  the  monks,  forming 
a  square  of  1  tJO  ft.     In  the  middle  wtre 


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BOUTE  13.      BAWAL   PINBI 


211 


rooms  11  ft  sq.,  which  were 
irines  for  statues. 
I  more  than  1  m.  due  S.  of 
is  the  mound  of  Sonala 
stands  on  the  highest  and 
)iouous  of  all  the  sandstone 
is  thickly  coTcred  with  Mo- 
tombs.     This  mound  is  118 
)0  ft  broad,  and  13  ft  hich. 
[400  yards  to  the  S.E.  is  a 
ridge,  called  Pari-ki-deri. 
^ered   with    Moslem    tombs, 
lingham  found  the  walls  of 
and  in  the  centre  of  the 
Irangle  he  found  the  base- 
temple  30  ft  sq. 
ance  of  the  stnpa  of  Manik- 
Labani  is  2  m.     The  road 
a  few  hundred  yds.  along  the 
runk  Road,  and  then  turns  N. 
Sfh  ground.] 
Bawal   Find!    Cantonment 
aOc  (a  branch  line  runs  W.  to 
rh  on  the  Indus  river,  78  m. ), 
This  is  a  modem  municipal 
ind  headquarters  of  a  district, 
the  largest  military  station  in 
1    It  has  lately  been  surrounded 
tain  of  detached  forts.    The  city 
pop.  of  86,000,  the  majority  of 
are    Mohammedans.       It    re- 
its  name  from  Jhanda  Khan,  a 
£ar  chief,  who  restored  the  town 
ehpur  Baori,  which  had  fallen  to 
daring  an  invasion  of  the  Moguls 

*  Ae  Uth  century.  The  ChurSi  is 
^  200  yds.  from  the  D.B.,  and  here 
fc  Kahop  Milman's  tomb.  The  Fort  is 
«littieless  than  If  m.  from  the  D.B. 
to  the  S.S.E.  The  town  has  nothing 
v«iy  remarkable  in  it.  The  PiiUic 
^^<ffden  here  is  a  park  of  40  acres,  with 

*  W  forest,  well  preserved.  General 
Cunningham,  Arch.  Rep.  vol.  ii.  p. 
1^2,  says  that  in  excavations  near  the 
M,  amongst  other  interesting  dis- 
coreries  was  that  of  an  oil-lamp  of 
classical  shape  with  an  Aryan  inscrip- 
tion, said  to  be  now  in  the  British 
Museum,  and  a  cup  of  mottled  sienna- 
eolotured  steatite.  Several  didrachms 
<)f  Hippostratus  and  Azas  and  a  di- 
ilrachm  of  ApoUodorus  have  been 
picked  up  on  the  Old  Parade-gi-ound. 

[Kawal  Pindi  is  the  starting-place 
for  the  ffill-staiion  of  Murree.     aO^  It 


is  37  m.  by  a  carriage  -  road,  —  a 
journey  of  5  hours.  It  is  the  great 
northern  sanitarium  of  the  Panjab,  and 
the  summer  resort  of  the  General  in 
command  at  Rawal  Pindi.  The  site  was 
selected  in  1850,  and  in  1853  barracks 
for  troops  were  erected.  The  houses 
are  built  on  the  summit  and  sides  of 
an  irregular  ridge,  and  command  mag^ 
nificent  views  over  forest -clad  hills 
into  deep  valleys,  studded  with  villages 
and  cultivated  fields,  with  the  snow- 
covered  peaks  of  Cashmere  in  the  back- 
ground. The  climate  is  well  adapted 
for  Englishmen,  the  lowest  recorded 
temperature  being  21**;  the  highest 
96". 

The  stationary  pop.  is  only  about 
3000,  but  in  the  height  of  the  season  it 
rises  to  14,000  or  15,000.  The  station 
is  7507  ft.  above  the  sea-level.  The 
loftiest  peaks  behind  the  sanitarium 
attain  a  height  of  over  9000  ft.  There 
is  very  little  game  now  to  be  found  in 
the  hills.  Situated  at  convenient  sites 
along  the  ridge  in  the  direction  of 
Ahbotdbad  are  several  "  Hutted  Camps" 
for  the  British  troops  in  summer. 

Rawal  Pindi  is  also  the  starting- 
place  for  Cashmere  by  Murree  and  the 
Jhelum  Valley.  This  is  the  best  route 
into  the  country  (see  p.  216).] 

MargcUa  is  passed  3  m.  before  reach- 
ing the  station  of  Eala  ke  Sarai.  On 
an  eminence  to  the  S.  is  the  monument 
of  General  John  Nicholson : 

"Erected  by  friends,  British  and 
native,  to  the  memory  of  Brig. -Gen. 
John  Nicholson,  C.B.,  who,  after  tak- 
ing a  hero's  part  in  four  great  wars, 
fell  mortally  wounded,  in  leading  to 
victory  the  main  column  of  assault  at 
the  great  siege  of  Delhi,  and  died  22d 
September  1857,  aged  34." 

194  m.  Kala  ke  Sarai  sta. ,  D.  B.  At 
6  m.  from  this  place  is  the  beautiful 
village  of  Wah, 

203  m.  Hasan  Abdal  sta.,  D.B., 
famous  for  the  so-called  Lalla  BooWa 
tomb,  which  is  close  by ;  also  on  account 
of  the  spring  of  Babi  Wali^  or  as  the 
Sikhs  call  him,  Panja  Sahib.  This  is 
one  of  those  attractive  places  to  which 
each  religion  in  succession  has  attached 
its  legends,  and  it  has  been  appropri- 
ated in  turn  by  Buddhist  Branman. 

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ROUTE  13.       LAHORE  TO  PESHAWAR 


India 


Mohammedan,  and  Sikh.  The  shrine 
of  this  saint  is  on  the  peak  of  a  lofty 
and  precipitous  hill,  at  the  N.W.  foot 
of  which  numerous  springs  of  limpid 
water  gush  out  of  the  ground  and  form 
a  rill  which  falls  into  tne  Wah  rivulet, 
i  m.  to  the  W.  of  Hasan  Ahdal. 

At  the  £.  entrance  into  the  town  on 
the  right  hand,  ahout  i  m.  from  the 
D.B.,  is  the  tomb  of  one  ofAkha/r's  wives^ 
which  the  ignorant  people  say^  is  that 
of  Nur  Jehan.  The  roaii  to  it  passes 
through  roughly  paved  streets,  and  then 
leads  down  to  a  clear  rapid  brook, 
crossed  by  stepping-stones,  a  few  yds. 
beyond  a  Sikh  temple,  near  a  beautiful 
pool  of  water,  canopied  with  mulberry 
and  pipul  trees  of  large  size,  and  full 
of  mahsir,  some  of  them  as  big  as  a  20 
lb.  salmon.  Walk  now  250  yds.  along 
the  stream,  past  some  ruins  of  the  time 
of  Jehangir,  and  past  another  pool  to 
the  Tomb,  which  is  very  plain,  and 
stands  in  a  garden  surrounded  by  a  wall, 
with  four  slim  towers,  one  at  each 
comer :  the  enclosure  is  well  filled  with 
trees,  amongst  which  is  a  cypress  more 
than  50  ft.  high. 

From  Hasan  Abdal  branches  off  one 
of  the  roads  to  Cashmere  (Rte.  13a)  via 
Abbotabad,  D.B.,  a  pretty  hill-station 
(4200  ft.),  and  headquarters  of  the 
Frontier  Force  Command,  famous  for  its 
gardens.  It  is  named  from  Lieut. 
James  Abbot,  who  reduced  the  district 
to  order  in  1845-8. 

232  m.  Attook  Bridge  sta.  (or  At- 
tak),  D.B.,  1^  m.  below  the  town  and 
Fort.  Attock  has  seen  the  passage  of 
every  conqueror  who  has  invaded  India 
from  the  N.W.  from  the  time  of  Alex- 
ander the  Great  downwards  ;  but  inde- 
pendent of  historical  interest,  the  place 
is  inviting  to  the  traveller  as  being  one 
of  the  most  picturesque  in  India. 

It  is  a  small  town  and  fortress  of 
some  military  importance,  and  head- 
quarters of  a  subdistrict  of  the  same 
name  (pop.  2000).  The  Fort,  situated 
ou  a  commanding  height,  overhang- 
ing the  £.  bank  of  the  Indus,  and 
a  little  to  the  S.  of  the  point  where  it 
receives  the  Kabul  river,  is  very  ex- 
tensive and  has  a  most  imposing  appear- 
ance.     It  was  built  by  the  Emperor 


Akbar  in  1583,  who  also  established  the 
ferry  which  it  commands.  Banjit  Sing 
occupied  the  place  in  1813,  and  it  re- 
mained in  the  hands  of  the  Sikhs  till 
the  British  conquest  of  1849.  It  is  now 
held  by  a  small  European  detachment. 
Leave  can  be  obtained  to  walk  round 
the  ramparts :  this  is  well  worth  doing 
on  account  of  the  picturesque  views  to 
be  obtained. 

The  Indus  is  crossed  here  by  a  very 
fine  Iron  Raihoay  Girder  Bridge,  which 
was  difficult  to  construct  owing  to  the 
rapidity  of  the  current  and  the  height 
above  thef  water.  The  rails  are  on  the 
top  of  the  girders,  and  there  is  a  passage 
for  road-Saffic  below.  Each  end  is 
protected  by  a  fortified  gate.  The 
river  has  been  known  to  rise  90  ft  in 
flood  near  the  Fort,  where  the  channel 
becomes  very  narrow. 

To  the  N.  of  the  Fort  and  on  the  & 
side  of  a  small  ravine,  overlooking  the 
united  river,  at  the  height  of  300  ft, 
is  an  old  sarai,  converted  into  the 
artillery  officers'  mess-room. 

Another  ravine  to  the  S.  divides  the 
sarai  &om  the  higher  hill  on  which  is 
the  Fort  The  general  view  is  certainly 
one  of  the  finest  in  India.  To  the  N. 
are  seen  the  snow-capped  peaks  of  the 
Hindu  Rush. 

S.  of  the  Fort  is  a  third  ravine,  which 
separates  it  from  the  village  of  Mullab 
Tolah. 

The  hills  that  line  the  river  near 
Attock  have  round  towers  and  ruined 
forts  dotted  about  them,  and  the  Attock 
Fort  seen  from  them  resembles  some 
old  baronial  castle.  It  crowns  a  rock 
800  ft  high,  and  descends  a  conside^ 
able  distance  down  its  sides. 

Outside  theFortto  the  W.,  and  50  yds. 
down,  is  the  tomb  of  a  Diwan  of  the 
saint ' Abdu  '1  Kadir  GilanL  Itstands  in 
a  small  enclosure  on  the  edge  of  a  clitf. 

[Persons  wishing  to  undertake  the 
somewhat  rough  journey  down  tlie 
Indus  from  Attock,  via  Khushalgarh, 
Makhad,  Kalabagh,  Kafir  Eot,  to  Dera 
Ismail  Khan,  D.B.  (5  days),  should  apply 
some  days  beforehand  to  the  Assistant 
Commissioner  at  Attock,  asking  hin 
kindly  to  make  arrangements  for 
procuring  a  native  boat  and  crew  for 
the  voyage.    Dera  Ismail  Khan  is  10  m* 


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Tojkcej).  218. 

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ROUTE  13.       PESHAWAR 


213 


from  Bhakkur  sta.  on  the  Sind-Saugar 
Rlj.] 

235  m.  Khairabad  sta.  (K.) 

261  m.  Nowshera  sta.,  D.B.,  is  the 
hflidqnarters  of  a  subdistrict  of  the 
sane  name  in  Peshawar  district,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Kabnl  river.  The  can- 
tonment is  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
ibout  2  m.  distant  on  the  Grand  Trunk 
Boad  is  a  mined  fort  built  by  the  Sikhs. 

Mardan  (18  m.  from  Nowshera)  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  Corps  of  Guides 
belonging  to  the  Punjab  Frontier  Force. 

267  m.  Pabbi  sta.  [18  m.  from  here 
is  Cherat,  D.B.,  a  hill  cantonment  and 
sanitarium  for  Peshawar,  4500  ft.  above 
sea-leveL  It  is  on  the  W.  of  the 
Khatak  range,  which  divides  the  dis- 
tricts of  Peshawar  and  Kohat.  It  was 
first  tried  in  1861 ,  and  since  then  troops 
have  been  annually  moved  up  with  great 
benefit  to  their  health.  The  temperature 
seldom  exceeds  90",  even  in  the  hottest 
season.  A  ton^  runs  between  Pabbi 
and  the  foot  of  the  hills,  whence  a  bridle- 
path of  about  5  m.  leads  into  Cherat.] 

276  m.  Peshawar  City  sta. 

278  m.  Peshawar  Cantonmentsta.,  3^ 
D.B.,  Peshawar  (84,000  inhab.,  chiefly 
Mohammedans),  an  important  frontier 
and  garrison  city  of  India,  is  both  inter- 
esting and  picturesque.  It  stands  upon 
a  plain,  stretching  towards  the  moun- 
tains, on  the  L  bank  of  the  Bara  stream, 
IS^m.  S.E.  of  the  junction  of  the  Swat 
and  Kabul  rivers,  and  10^  m.  E.  of  Jam- 
md  Fort,  which  guards  the  entrance  of 
the  Khaiber  Pass.     (To  Kabul  190  m.) 

Peshawar  is  the  ancient  capital  of 
the  Gandara  Province,  and  has  at  all 
later  periods  been  historically  import- 
ant ;  hut  although  dating  back  to  the 
5th  and  6th  cent.,  it  retains  scarcely 
any  monuments  of  antiquity.  The 
modem  city  has  but  slight  architectural 
pretensions.  The  houses  are  built  of 
sroall  bricks  or  mud,  held  together  by 
a  wood^i  framework,  and  the  streets 
are  irregular  and  tortuous  ;  the  whole 
being  surrounded  by  a  mud  wall  10  ft. 
high.  It  is  not  fortified,  though  sur- 
roonded  by  watch-towers,  which  are 
now  in  rums  or  have  been  converted 
into  police  posts.  The  Ohor  KhaJtri, 
successively  a  Buddhist  monastery  and 
Hiada  temple,  is  now  the  Tehsil     On 


rising  ground  just  outside  the  city,  N., 
is  a  square  fort  of  sun-dried  bricks,  with 
walls  92  ft.  high.  From  it  there  is  a 
veiy  good  view  of  the  Peshawar  Valley 
and.  hills.     To  the  W.  is  the  Jail, 

Peshawar  has  a  great  transit  trade 
from  Kabul  and  Bokhara  and  Central 
Asia.  The  Bazaars  are  well  worth  a 
visit,  both  for  the  objects  they  contain 
— many  of  them  not  seen  in  Central 
India — and  for  the  fierce-looking  and 
picturesquely-dressed  natives  who  fre- 
quent them,  from  Afghanistan  and  the 
surrounding  districts,  as  well  as  from 
the  centre  of  Asia.  The  traveller  should 
drive  through  the  town  to  the  Old 
Palace,  whence  there  is  a  lovely  view 
in  the  early  morning. 

The  speciality  of  Peshawar  is  bright- 
coloured  scarfs  called  lungis.  Wax- 
cloth work  and  some  ornamental  needle- 
work are  also  made  here,  as  well  as 
knives  and  small-arms.  The  cemeteries 
are  very  numerous,  and  quite  surround 
the  city.  The  Grand  Trunk  Road  ap- 
proaches Peshawar  from  the  E.,  when, 
after  passing  the  city  to  the  N.,  it 
meets  the  Circular  Road,  which  goes 
quite  round  the  cantonment.  Just 
where  it  comes  parallel  with  the  city 
is  the  missionary  burial-ground. 

The  Cantonments,  2  m.  W.  of  the 
city,  are  pleasantly  situated  on  a  slope 
loomng  towards  the  Khaiber  Pass,  and 
occupying  one  of  the  highest  sites  in  the 
valley.  They  contain  a  Public  Oarden^ 
and  the  main  roads  are  lined  with 
avenues  of  trees.  Leaving  the  Fort  and 
taking  the  Circular  Road,  the  Race- 
course,  the  iV./.,  Art,,  the  B.S.f  and 
Nat.  G.S.  Lines  are  passed  in  succession. 

There  are  Anglican  and  H,  Catholic 
Churches.  At  the  Mission  connected 
with  the  Church  Missionary  Society 
there  is  a  school  where  a  large  number 
of  natives  are  educated.  At  the  Mission- 
house  there  is  a  considerable  library  and 
a  good  collection  of  Buddhist  remains. 
They  maintain  also  two  guest-houses 
for  natives  free  of  all  charge.  In  the 
city  is  the  pretty  Mission  church. 

One  of  the  many  victims  of  the 
fanatical  Afghans  was  Lieut.  -  Col. 
Mackeson,  C.B.,  Commissioner  of  Pesha- 
war,  murdered  in  1853.  An  obelisk 
30  ft.  high,  in  the  centre  of  the  Mall, 

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ROUTE  13.       LAHORE  TO  PESHAWAR 


marks  the  spot  where  he  is  buried. 
The  Deputy-Commissioner's  house  is 
the  same  which  Herbert  Edwardes 
occupied  in  1857,  when  he  and  Nichol- 
son and  General  Ck>tton  decided  on 
disarming  the  native  troops. 

ffuniing  Ucajried  on  throughout  the 
winter,  when  the  climate  is  often  very 
cold,  and  it  is  necessary  to  be  provided 
with  warm  clothes. 

(1)  The  Ehaiber  (Ehyber)  Pasa. 

This  expedition  should  not  be 
omitted,  as  no  description  can  convey 
a  real  impression  of  the  Pass,  its 
natural  strength,  and  the  wildness  of 
the  scenery.  Before  starting,  the 
traveller  must  apply  to  the  Political 
Officer  in  charge  for  a  permit.  He  can 
arrange  to  be  driven  to  Ali  Musjid 
(16  m.)  but  must  ride  the  rest  of  the 
way  to  Lundi  KotcU,  The  Pass  is  open 
only  on  Tuesday  or  Friday  for  the 
benefit  of  caravans,  when  it  is  guarded 
by  the  corps  of  Khaiber  Rifles^  Afridis 
enlisted  for  the  purpose.  Several  for- 
tified posts,  the  chief  of  which  are 
Ali  Musjid  and  Lundi  Kotal  (1700  ft. 
above  sea -level),  are  held  by  them. 
The  Pass  is  quite  safe  to  Europeans 
under  their  escort.  The  traveller  will 
probably  accompany  a  long  convoy  of 
camels,  oxen,  asses,  heavily  laden  with 
well-poised  loads,  climbing  the  defile. 

10|  m.  by  road,  Jamrud,  D.B., 
is  the  first  place  from  which  the 
Khaiber  Pass  may  be  seen.  The 
carriage-road  to  this  place  runs  due 
W.  from  the  Inf.  Lines.  At  night  it 
is  not  safe  to  go  beyond  the  cantonment 
Police  Post. 

The  Fort  of  Jamrvd  was  thoroughly 
repaired  by  Hari  Sing,  and  gallantly 
held  by  him  against  the  Afj^hans  till 
April  1837,  when  he  was  Killed  in 
battle  against  troops  sent  by  Dost  Mu- 
hammad. The  fort  has  three  encircling 
walls  of  stone,  and  stands  on  ground 
raised  about  100  ft.  above  the  valley. 

The  Pass  is  a  narrow  winding  defile 
wending  between  cliffs  of  shale  and 
limestone  rock  600  to  1000  ft.  high, 
stretching  up  to  more  lofty  mountains 
beyond.  8  m.  from  Jamrud  is  a  village 
on  the  top  of  a  hill  to  the  S.  W.,  called 
Kadam;  and  there  is  another  at  the 


very  entrance  to  the  Pass, 

Ou  5th  April  1842,  the 
had  blocked  the  Pass  with  a  1 
stones,  mud,  and  bushes,  and  1 
the  height  on  both  sides  wii 
men.      But    our  disciplined- 
clambered    round    the    heig^  ' 
the  greatest  agility,  took  tiie-l  ^ 
the  rear  from  above,   and     ^ 
them.  It  was  now  time  for  Gen  i 

to  advance  with  his  main  b  g 'p^ 
the  Pass — clearing  the  barrica  r^  " 
them.  It  was  well  that  th  \  i  ^ 
taineers  had  been  driven  off,  foJ|   \\ 


had  a  long  convoy  of  prov 
ammunition  for  Sale's  garris^  ^' 
his  care,  and  nearly  a  whole    \ 
consumed  in  reaching  the  Fo]      \y 
Musjid,  evacuated  by  the  enena  t::^ 
morning.     The  heights  being  i  "^^ 
and  held  by  our  force,  Jellala 
relieved  the  next  day ;  and 
after  they  sallied  forth  and 
Muhammad  Akbar's  force,  60  ~ 
burning  his  camp  and  reca^ 
standards  and  4  guns  taken' 
English.     During  the  second 
War  (1879)  Ali  Musjid  was  ti 
of  heroic  fighting  on  both  sidi  »V" 
fort  shows  traces  of  three  \   ^|^^J^^ 
periods,     Buddhist,     early  ^^^^ 
medan,  and  British. 

(2)  Bara,  D.B.— A  visit  may 
to  Bara,  from  which  place 
water  has  now  been  brought  1 
war.     There  is  a  mud  fort  at  6  { 
of  the  cantonment,  close  to 
from  which  the  water  comes. 

The  conduit  which  brings  tl 
is  made  of  blocks  of  concn 
intervals   of  ^    m.   there 
towers  for  ventilation.     The 
siderable  cultivation  on  the  ; 
Pnsht-i-Khar,  half-way  betwei 
war  and  Bara,  is  an  aqueduct  I 
In  Bara  Fort  there  is  a  bu^gf 
the  engineer  officer.     At  300  j 
the  W.  of  the  fort  is  the  i 

There  are  other  forts  at  the  | 
of  the  passes,  such  as  Mich 
kadar,  and  Abazai,  but  ] 
visit  them  are  necessary. 

(8)  Persons  accustomed  to  a  ] 
in  the  saddle  would  enjoy  a  rtcl 
from  PeshawajKhrough  the  T 

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ROUTE   13  a.       cashmere 


216 


toEohat  (1767  ft.),  D.B.,  near  the  N. 
bank  of  the  Kohat  Toi  Mver,  2  m.  from 
the  S.  base  of  the  Afghan  mts.  The 
cantonment  and  civil  station  arc  to 
the  E.  and  N.E.  of  the  native  town. 


ROUTE  13a 

Cashmere  (also  spelt  Kashmir) 

General  DeBcription. — The  valley  of 
Cashmere  is  an  oval  plain,  some  84 
HL  in  length  and  20  to  25  in  breadth, 
at  an  average  height  of  about  6000  ft., 
and  entirely  surrounded  by  the  lofty 
snow-clad  ranges  of  the  Karakoram  and 
Himalaya.  Up  to  the  end  of  May,  and 
sometimes  by  tiie  beginning  of  October, 
there  is  a  continuous  ring  of  snows 
around  the  valley  ;  amongst  which  may 
be  mentioned,  N.  of  the  Wular  Lake, 
Nanga  Parbat,  26,620  ft.  ;  E.,  Har- 
amakh,  16,900  ft,  and  Amamath, 
17,320  ft. ;  S.,  the  Panjal  range  with 
peaks  of  15,000  ft  ;  and  W.,  Kazi  Nag, 
12,125  ft.  These  are  all  visible  from 
the  valley.  Farther  distant,  but  still 
in  the  territory  of  H.H.  Maharaja 
Sir  Pratab  Sing,  of  Jnmmu  and  Cash- 
mere, G.C.S.I.,  are  many  peaks  of  over 
20,000  ft.,  the  highest  of  which  is 
probably  Mt  Godwin  Austen,  28,278  ft. 
The  Chitral  State  is  feudatory  to  Cash- 
mere ;  its  highest  peak,  Agram,  25,426 
ft.,  is  about  200  m.  N.W.  of  Srinagar, 
in  the  Hindu  Eush  range. 

The  valley  of  Cashmere  is  watered 
by  the  Jhelum  and  its  tributaries, 
which  find  an  outlet  in  the  narrow 
gorge  at  Baramula,  and  finally  join  the 
Indus  in  the  Punjab.  The  soil  is 
fertile.  Rice  and  maize  are  the  chief 
crops ;  then  come  wheat,  barley,  and 
orcnard  or  garden  produce.  The 
saffron  {Crocus  sativus)  is  famous  for  its 
bouquet,  and  its  cultivation  is  an 
ancient  industry.  The  floating  gardens 
of  the  Dal  lake  are  made  of  long  strips 
of  the  lake  reed,  which  are  moored  at 
the  four  corners  by  poles  driven  into 
the  lake  bed  ;  then  heaps  of  weed  and 
mud  are  formed  into  cones,  and  placed 
on  the  reeds.  Melons,  tomatoes,  and 
cucumbers  grow  upon  these  cones  with 


astonishing  vigour.  The  smghara^  or 
water  chestnut,  grows  wild  in  the  Wular 
and  Dal  lakes ;  the  kernel,  which  is 
white  and  mealy,  is  either  ground  into 
flour,  or  parched,  and  one  pound  of 
kernel  is  suflicient  for  a  day's  food. 
All  the  fruits  and  vegetables  of  temper- 
ate climes  grow  well  in  the  valley. 
The  mulberry,  bitter  cherry,  plum, 
apple,  pear,  grape,  walnut,  and  pome- 
granate are  indigenous ;  the  apricot 
and  peach  have  spread  all  over  the 
valley  since  their  introduction.  The 
forest  trees  grow  to  a  great  size.  The 
principal  among  them  are  the  deodar 
(the  best,  but  not  common),  the  blue 
pine,  spruce,  and  silver  fir ;  the  elm, 
walnut,  poplar,  maple,  willow,  plane 
(or  chenar),  mulberry,  and  horse- 
chestnut. 

The  climate  is  delightful  in  the  earlv 
summer.  In  July  and  August,  although 
the  thermometer  does  not  rise  above  80° 
or  85°,  the  stillness  of  the  air  causes  the 
heat  to  be  oppressive  in  the  valley,  and 
then  the  mosquitoes  make  up  for  their 
comparatively  mild  sting  by  their 
enormous  numberQ.  At  this  period 
visitors  are  glad  to  ascend  to  the  upland 
plateaus,  Gulmarg ;  Sonamarg,  in  the 
Sind  valley ;  Nagmarg ;  Pailgam,  at 
the  head  of  the  Liddar  valley,  and 
Gurais.  The  pleasantest  months  in 
Srinagar,  with  a  latitude  of  34*'5  north, 
are  April,  May,  June,  October,  and 
November.  The  spring  months  are 
showery,  July  and  August  are  some- 
times rainy,  and  the  snows  set  in  about 
Christmas  time.  The  cold  in  winter  is 
sometimes  severe.  In  1890-1  the  ther- 
mometer fell  below  zero.  In  January 
and  February  1893  there  was  skating 
all  over  the  Dal  lake. 

One  of  the  latest  writers,  Mr.  Walter 
Lawrence,  says :  "The  valley  contains 
nearly  everything  which  should  make 
life  enjoyable.  There  is  sport  varied 
and  excellent,  there  is  scenery  for  the 
artist  and  layman,  mountains  for  the 
mountaineer,  flowers  for  the  botanist, 
a  vast  field  for  the  geologist,  and 
magnificent  ruins  for  the  arehseologist. 
The  epicure  will  find  dainty  fruits  and 
vegetables  cheaper  here  than  perhaps 
in  any  part  of  the  world,  while  the 
lounger  can  pass  ^elightful   days  of 

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ROUTE  13  a.       CARHMBRE 


dolcefar  niente  in  the  mat  house-boats 
moored  under  the  shady  chenar  tree." 

The  population  of  the  valley  is 
814,241,  of  whom  118,960  inhabit  the 
capital,  Srioagar.  The  Mohammedans 
number  767, 000,  and  the  Hindus  52,000. 
The  Hindus  worship  the  likeness  of  Her 
Msgesty  the  Queen  Empress.  They 
regard  as  divine  the  sovereign  de  facto , 
but  in  the  case  of  the  Mogul  Auriingzeb 
they  made  an  exception,  and  his  likeness 
was  never  worshipped,  for  he  was  a 
persecutor  of  the  Hindus. 

Histoiy. — For  many  centuries  Cash- 
mere was  ruled  by  Hindu  princes,  who 
were  succeeded  by  Tartars.  In  1587 
the  country  was  conquered  by  the  great 
M  ogul  Akbar  and  annexed  to  his  Indian 
Empire.  Akbar  built  the  fort  on  Hari 
Parbat  hill.  His  successor,  Jehangir, 
made  many  expeditions  to  Cashmere, 
where  he  planted  chenar  trees,  and 
constructed  lovely  pleasure  -  gardens. 
In  1753  Cashmere  passed  into  the  hands 
of  the  Durani  Chiefs  from  Cabul,  and 
in  1819  Ranjlt  Sing's  general,  Misser 
Chand)  defeated  the  Patan  Governor, 
Jabbar  Khan,  and  annexed  the  country. 
In  1846,  after  the  overthrow  of  the  Sikh 
rule  by  the  British  Gk)vemment,  Cash- 
mere was  assigned  by  treaty  to  Golab 
Sing. 

Antiquities.  —  The  chief  ruins  of 
Cashmere  are  those  at  Martand, 
Avantipore,  Pandritan,  and  the  little 
temple  at  Payeoh.  They  exhibit  traces 
of  Greek  influence,  and  are  of  great 
archaeological  interest. 

The  Coins  of  Cashmere  are  worthy 
of  notice.^ 


There  are  many  Passes  into  Cash- 
mere, mostly  from  the  S.  and  W.  The 
following  are  the  most  frequented  : — 

1.  From  Rawal  Pindi  vid  Murree 
(p.  211),  and  the  Baramula  Pass. 

2.  From  Gujrat  (p.  209)  vid  Bhim- 
ber  and  Pir  Panjal  (see  p.  220). 

3.  From  Jhelum  (p.  209)  vid  Punch 
(see  p.  221). 

4.  From  Hasan  Abdal  vid  Abbota- 
bad  (p.  212)  (see  p.  221). 

1  The  best  book  on  the  subject  is  Coins  of 
KaOimi/r,  by  Mr.  Rogers  of  Amritsar. 


5.  From  Jummoo  (p.   208)  i 
221). 

(1)  Murree  Route  to.  Cash* 

Rawalpindi 

By  tonga  to 

(From  Murreefl 
a  short  cut  M^  I  ^ 
path)  to  EohK^f  ^ 
Dewal,  18  4,\\^ 
stead  of  29  nu^^^ 

75  m.  moaiCD.B.) 

85  m.  Domel(D.B.) 

99  m.  Garhl  (D.B.) 
108  m.  Hatti. 
119^ m.  ChagGtl  (D.B.) 
188  m.  Url  (D.B.) 
146  m.  Bampur(D.B.) 
162  m.  Baramma  (D.B.) 
195  m.  Srlnagar  (D.B.).i 

The  above  are  easy  stages, 
are  intermediate  halting  places, 
is  a  D.  B.  at  every  stage  (except  IW 
with  a  Ehansama  and  European  i 
plies. 

The  usual  time  for  the  journey 
days,  but  it  can  be  accomplished 
days  from  Murree. 

It  is  advisable  to  spend  a  dai 
Rawal  Pindi  in  order  to  make  arrai 
ments  for  the  journey. 

The  road  is  well  metalled  all 

way,  though    liable   to   interruption^^ 
from  landslips  in  wet  weather.)  \i 

Fare  for  Tonga  (3  seats)  122  rs. ,  1  se^ 
48  rs.     Mail  tongas  do  not  travel  bjf^ 
night.     Ekkas  can    be    procured  for; 
servants  or  baggage  for  22  rs.    These . 
prices  are  from  Rawal  Pindi  to  Srin*?? 
agar.2  ^ 

If  the  traveller  intends  to  march  ^ 
into  Cashmere  by  stages  he  can  engine  ^ 
coolies  at  4  an.  a  stage,  baggage  ponies  | 
at  12  an.  a  stage,  aud  riding  ponies  r^ 
with  saddles  at  2  rs.  a  stage.  [^ 

The  road  ascends  steadily  from  Bawal 
Pindi  to 

87  m.  Murree  a^  (see  p.  211)  (7700 
ft.),  and  then  begins  to  descend  until 
the  Jhelum  River  is  reached  at 

1  If  the  traveller  intends  to  go  beyood 
Srinagar,  it  will  be  necessary  for  him  to  get » 
camp  Kit,  ponies,  etc  All  this  can  he  arranged 
at  Srinagar,  or  by  writing  befordumd  to 
Cockbum's  Agency,  Srinagar. 

2  Travellers  who  observe  cruelty  jpractised 
upon  the  tonga  horses  are  reqaestSd  to  fi»^ 
ward  a  written  complaint  to  tiie  lag^ 
Resident  at  Srinagar.  t 


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217 


27  m.  Kohala(2000  ft),  D.B.  good. 

(The  bridle  path  by  Dewal  from  Murree  to 

Kohala  is  11  m.  shorter  than  the  tonga  route.) 

The  road  along  the  Jhelum  valley  is 
hi  in  the  summer  months,  so  that 
tmyelling  in  the  early  morning  or 
erening  will  be  found  the  most  agree- 
able. 

In  addition  to  the  very  fine  near 
scenery  along  this  road,  grand  views 
;  of  the  snows  may  be  obtained  in  April 
I  and  May.  After  crossing  the)  river  by 
a  large  suspension  bridge,  where  toll  is 
levied,  the  road  ascends  the  left  bank 
all  the  way  to  Baramula.  There  is  a 
picturesque,  small,  D.  B.  at 

11  UL  Dalai,  D.  B.  good.  From  here 
the  road  is  cut  in  the  face  of  the  cliff, 
and  is  liable  to  be  blocked  by  landslips 
after  rain. 

10  m.  Domel,  D.B.  (where  the  route 
from  Hasan  Abdal  (4)  falls  in  1.)  Here 
the  road  turns  at  an  acute  angle,  where 
the  Jhelum  is  joined  by  the  Kishen- 
gunga.  About  a  mile  N.  is  seen  the 
town  of  Mozufferabad,  with  one  or  two 
temples,  and  beyond  it  is  the  Sikh 
fort. 

14  m.  Oarhi,  D.B.  good.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  this  march  is  shaded  by  the 
high  hills. 

9  m.  Hattt.  The  scenery  is  bolder 
and  more  beautiful. 

11^  m.  Caiagotl,  D.B.  There  is  a 
swing  bridge  below  the  bungalow. 
Soon  after  leaving  Chagoti  the  ruins  of 
a  mosque  are  passed,  the  carving  of 
which  was  copied,  and  a  model  sent 
to  London  for  the  Colonial  Exhibition. 

13i  m.  Uri,  D.B.  good.  The  ffaji 
Fir  river,  which  falls  into  the  Jhelum 
from  the  S.,  is  here  crossed.  For  the 
sake  of  the  gradient  the  road  makes  a 
long  detour. 

13^  m.  Bampur,  D.B.  From  here 
the  road  is  conaparatively  leveL  An 
ancient  temple,  Bhawanigar,  is  passed, 
and  then  the  fort  and  village  of  Now- 
shera. 

15}  m.  Baramula,  D.B.  good.  Here 
Cashmere  Doongas,  or  house  boats  can 
be  procured  for  the  life  on  the  river. 
Two  months  are  often  spent  on  the 
Jhelum,  varied  by  expeditions  up  the 
side  valleys  and  to  the  numerous  lakes. 
The  larger  doongas  may  be  hired  for 


20  rs.  a  month  ;  the  smaller,  generally 
used  for  kitchen  and  servants,  cost 
15  rs.  a  month.  These  prices  include 
four  boat  people  to  each  boat.  English 
house  boats  cost  30  rs.  to  150  rs.  a 
month,  according  to  accommodation, 
and  whether  furnished  or  not.  Some 
of  them  have  every  comfort. 

[On  leaving  Baramula  by  boat  Sopor 
is  passed,  where  fair  mahsir  fishing 
may  be  obtained.  Sopor  is  the  starting 
point  for  the  Lolab  valley,  Nagmarg, 
and  Gulmarg.  When  th^  river  is  hi^ 
boats  go  from  Sopor  to  Shadipore  by 
the  Naru  Canal.  If  the  water  is  in- 
sufficient for  the  canal  the  Wular  Lake 
has  to  be  crossed,  which  should  be  done 
in  the  morning,  as  later  in  the  day 
dangerous  storms  sometimes  arise.  The 
Wular  Lake  is  the  largest  in  India, 
being  12J  m.  long  by  5  m.  broad.  It 
has  good  fishing.  From  the  Wular 
the  boats  join  the  river  by  a  small 
canal,  which  leaves  the  river  at  Hajan, 
a  large  village  where  there  is  good 
fishing.  8  m.  up  stream  from  Hajan  is 
Smnbal.  This  is  the  starting  point 
for  the  trip  by  boat  to  the  exquisitely 
beautiful  Manasbal  lake.  Shadipore  is 
6  m.  up  the  river  from  Sunibal,  and 
Srinagar  about  10  m.  farther  by  the 
river.  From  Baramula  to  Srinagar  by 
the  Naru  canal  takes  little  more  than 
one  day  ;  by  the  Wular  lake  two  to 
three  days. 

From  Baramula  the  traveller 
can  go  by  boat  up  the  Pohra  river 
to  Sunawin,  the  next  day  to  Kolaa- 
gam,  and  the  Srd  day,  if  the  river 
is  full,  to  Awatkoola  —  very  pretty 
scenery.  Sending  the  boat  back  to 
Sopor,  a  pleasant  march  may  be  made 
through  the  Lolab  valley  as  follows. 
Awatkoola  to  Kofwa/ra  (8  m.) ;  to  Lal- 
poor  (18  m.),  the  capital  of  the  Lolab 
valley ;  to  Harwan  (18  m.) ;  back  to 
Sopor  (10  m.),  and  then  on  to  Srinagar 
as  above.  The  Lolab  valley  is  very 
pretty,  and  the  marches  easy.  For- 
merly black  bears  were  numerous, 
especially  during  the  mulberry  season, 
but  they  are  not  now  so  common.] 

From  Baramula  the  tonga  reaches 
in  four  hours 

33  m.  SRINAQAB,  3^  or  the  city  of  the 
Sun  (5250  ft.),  th^  capital  of  the  Cash- 


218 


ROUTE  13  a.       cashmere 


India 


mere  state.  It  is  beautiftdly  situated 
in  the  centre  of  the  **  Happy  Valley," 
has  a  population  of  119,000,  and  is 
dindea  into  two  parts  by  the  river 
Jhdiim,  along  the  banks  of  which  it 
stretches  for  nearly  2  m.  The  river  is 
crossed  by  qimint  wooden  bridges,  its 
banks  are  lined  with  carved  blocks  of 
limestone,  now  unfortunately  much 
defaced  by  time  and  neglect. 

The  city,  traversed  by  canals,  was 
built  by  the  Raja  Pravarasene  in 
the  6th  cent.,  and  consists  chiefly  of 
wooden  houses,  some  of  them  several 
stories  high.  Surmounted  by  sloping 
roofs  covered  with  earth.  Within 
the  SJier  Oa/rhi,  surrounded  by  massive 
walls,  are  the  City  Fort  and  one  of  the 
Summer  Besidenoes  of  the  Maharaja. 
The  Jumma  Musjid  is  of  considerable 
size,  and  of  interest  as  being  designed 
to  be  constructed  in  wood.  All  the 
pillars  which  support  the  cloisters  of 
the  courtyard  are  of  deodar  pine, 
"honest  wooden  forms,"  with  the 
remains  of  rich  and  beautiful  carving. 
There  is  another  wooden  mosque  in 
the  city,  the  Shah  Hamadan,  the  roof 
of  which  is  probably  similar  to  that 
which  covered  the  Temple  of  Martand. 

The  visitor  should  take  a  general 
view  of  the  city  and  its  neighbourhood 
from  the  top  of  the  Takht-i-Suleiman 
(Throne  of  Solomon)  (6263  ft.,  i,e,  987 
ft.  above  the  city),  where  there  is  a 
fine  stone  Temple  said  to  be  of  great 
antiquity,  but  probably  not  earlier 
than  the  16th  cent.  The  road  to  it  lies 
along  a  famous  Poplar  Avenue,  more 
than  1  m.  in  length,  and  formed  by 
old  and  stately  trees.  He  should  also 
ascend  the  Hari  Parbat,  an  isolated 
city  on  the  N.  outskirts  of  the  city, 
and  250  feet  above  it.  It  is  surrounded 
by  an  extensive  wall,  and  surmounted 
by  the  Fort  built  by  Akbar  at  the  end 
of  the  16th  cent. 

The  Shaik  Bagh  Qhkt  and  Shah 
Hamadan  Musjid  should  be  visited  in 
a  small  boat. 

Good  subjects  for  the  artist  may  be 
found  in  Srinagar,  but  the  smells  in 
the  town  are  often  very  objectionable. 

The  chief  Industries  are  those  of 
the  shawl -makers,  gold,  silver,  and 
copper  smiths,   papier-mach^   makers, 


leather  workers,  and  dealers  in  precious 
stones. 

EZCUBSIONS. 

(1)  The  first  excursion  should  be  to 
the  Dal  Lake,  which  ii  close  to  Srinagar, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spots 
in  the  world.  The  lake  is  about  4  ni. 
long  and  2i  m.  broad.  Taking  a  small 
boat  with  four  or  more  rowers,  the 
traveller  should  proceed  to  the  Nishat 
Bagh,  a  good  place  for  a  picnic.  Tlienoe 
on  to  the  Shalimar  Bag^,  built  by 
Shah  Jehan,  and  further  decorated  by 
Jehangir,  who  lived  there  in  the  summer 
months  with  Nurmahal,  his  favourite 
wife,  introduced  to  us  by  Moore  in 
his  Light  of  the  Harem,  On  one  side 
of  the  garden  is  a  heronry.  Then 
crossing  the  lake,  another  rest  may  be 
taken  in  the  Nasim  Bag^  a  delight- 
ful spot.  It  is  a  fine  park-like  expanse, 
closely  planted  with  magnificent  chcDW 
trees ;  well  raised  above  the  lake  it 
catches  the  breezes,  whence  its  name 
is  derived.  Then  back  to  Srinagar, 
passing  a  village  with  a  large  mosque, 
called  Hasrat  Bal ;  under  the  pic- 
turesque Hari  Parbat,  and  through  the 
Nasim  Bagh  Canal  to  the  Dal  Gate. 

The  eastern  shore  of  the  lake  may  be 
reached  on  foot.  Starting  from  the 
Munshi  Bagh  the  road  leads  S.  of  the 
Takht'i-Smeiman,  to  the  edge  of  the 
lake.  The  wine  factory  is  to  .the  left 
A  massive  building,  high  up  the  moun- 
tain-side farther  on,  is  the  reri  Mahal, 
probably  originally  erected  for  astro- 
logical purposes.  Beyond  are  vine- 
yards, uid  then  higher  up,  the  Chasmt 
Shahi,  a  garden  of  the  usual  Mogul 
plan.  This  is  8  m.  from  the  Nunshi 
Baffh  ;  the  Nishat  Bagh  is  2  m.  farther, 
and  Shalimar  2  m.  beyond  that 

(2)  Martand, Venia«r,andtheLiddar 
Valley.  Proceeding  by  boat  up  the 
river,  passing  8  m.  Pampur^  6  m 
further  is  Karkapoor^  the  starting 
place  for  the  temple  of  Payech.  In 
excellent  preservati(m,  this  temple  is 
superior  to  all  others  in  Cashmere  ics 
its  beauty  and  elegance.  It  has  been 
ascribed  by  General  Cunningham  to 
King  Narendraditya,  who  reined  fioB 
483  to  490  A.D.  In  the  interior  is*  j 
large  stone  ^i'^ff^QqlQ  •  A 


1 


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ROUTE  13a.       excursions 


219 


After  passiDg  *Karkapoor,  the  next 
village  of  note  is  Ayantipore,  once  a 
famous  city  and  the  capital  of  King 
Ayanti-varmma,  who  reigned  858  to 
888  A.D.  He  huilt  here  two  temples, 
now  shapeless  masses  of  ruins,  but 
the  gateways  of  both  are  standing, 
and  the  colonnade  of  the  smaller  one 
has  been  partially  excavated.  About 
10  m.  further  is  Bijheharaj  where  there 
is  fair  fishing  ;  and  a  good  encamping 
ground  above  the  town.  From  here 
it  is  6  m.  to  Kanbal  for  Islamabad, 
the  second  town  in  Cashmere,  with 
8000  inhabitants,  and  originally  the 
capital  of  the  valley. 

Here  the  boat  is  left,  and  a  start 
made  for  the  Bnins  of  Martand,  which 
are  4^  m.  N.K  of  Islamabad,  and 
stand  isolated  on  an  elevated  plateau 
above  the  valley.  The  building  is 
"  interesting  as  a  typical  example 
of  a  quasi  -  classical  style,  with  a 
Western  impress  on  its  details  un- 
usual in  the  East."  Its  date  is  uncer- 
tain, and  has  been  variously  ascribed 
to  A.D.  370,  580,  and  750.  It  has 
suffered  much  from  earthquakes  and 
neglect,  and  it  is  to  be  regretted  so 
little  has  been  done  to  preserve  it 
The  colonnade  was  built  by  the  famous 
King  Lalitaditya,  who  reigned  from 
693  to  729  A.D. 

From  Martand  a  path  leads  to  5  m. 
Atchibal,  with  its  beautiful  streams 
and  cascades,  groves  of  magnificent 
chenar  trees,  and  the  old  pleasure 
garden  of  Jehangir.  There  is  a  bunga- 
low for  visitors,  and  an  excellent 
camping  ground. 

From  Atchibal  a  path  leads  via 
Shahcibad  to  12  m.  Vemag.  Here 
are  the  celebrated  springs,  the  source 
of  the  River  Jhelum,  which  rises  in  an 
octagonal  tank  in  a  garden  near  the 
foot  of  the  Bunihal  pass.  One  of  the 
recesses  of  the  enclosure  which  sur- 
rounds the  tank  bears  an  inscription 
by  Jehangir.  This  spot  was  a  favourite 
haunt  of  his  empress,  Nurmahal.  The 
tank  is  full  of  sacred  fish. 

There  is  good  accommodation  in  the 
bungalow  overlooking  the  tank. 

Returning  to  Martand,  the  traveller 
should  make  for  2  m.  Bawan,  where 
there  are  celebrated  chenars,  and  tanks, 


and  excellent  cam  pine  grounds.  From 
here  it  is  12  m.  up  the  Liddar  vidley 
to  Mshmaka/m,  where  there  is  an  old 
ziarat  from  which  a  fine  view  is  obtained 
of  the  valley.  The  next  march  reaohefi 
14  m.  Pailgam,  (8500  ft.)  This  is  a 
favourite  summer  resort,-  with  good 
camping  ground  under  the  pines. 

From  Pailgam  an  expedition  may  be 
made  farther  up  the  valley  to  12  m. 
Tanin  (10,600  ft.),  whence  it  is  a  stift' 
climb  to  11  m.  ShisJia  Nag  (18,000  ft), 
a  fine  sheet  of  water  covered  with  ice 
till  the  month  of  June.  From  Shisha 
Nag  it  is  16  m.  to  Amamath  Cave,  but 
the  walk  is  not  easy.  The  cave  is  a 
famous  resort  of  pilgrims. 

(3)  Another  beautiful  expedition  may 
be  made  from  Srinagar  up  the  Bind 
Valley.  The  first  stage  is  either  by 
boat,  or  on  foot,  to  10  m.  Oamderhaly 
a  small  village  at  the  mouth  of  the 
valley.  Ganderbal  is  only  5  m.  by 
road  from  the  Nasim  Bagh  in  the  Dal 
Lake.  From  Ganderbal  the  marches 
up  the  valley  are  to  Kangan  (11  m.), 
to  Qoond  (14  m.),  to  Oagangair  (9  m.), 
to  Sonamarg  (9  m.)  Sonamarg  (8500 
ft.)  contains  lovely  meadows,  and  was 
once  the  chief  sanitarium  of  Cashmere. 
Then  to  BaUal  (9  m.)  9282  ft.  at  the 
foot  of  the  Zojila  Pass.  From  Baltal 
one  can  go  over  the  Zojila  (11,300  ft) 
to  Dras,  and  thence  to  Leh,  the  capital 
of  Ladakh  (19  marches  from  Srinagar). 
From  Baltal,  the  cave  of  Amamath 
(see  above)  may  be  reached  in  the 
spring  or  early  summer,  before  the 
snow  bridges  have  melted.  Provisions 
are  not  easily  obtained  in  the  Sind 
Valley  ;  and  there  are  no  bungalows. 

(4)  There  are  several  routes  from 
Srinagar  to  Qolxnarg,  if  a  very  favourite 
resort  when  the  valley  becomes  hot. 

Routes  from  Seinagar  to 

GULMARG. 

1.  By  boat  to  the  Purwtva  Chowhi,  below  tlie 
city.  Thence  by  road  to  Martotm  (18  m.)  where 
is  camping  ground  and  a  D.B.,  thence  it  is  12 
m.  to  Guunarg.  The  whole  mstance  may  be 
done  in  one  day. 

2.  By  boat  to  Palhallam,  then  by  road,  16  m. 
8.  By  boat  to  Sopor,  then  by  road»  18  m. 

4.  By  boat  to  Baramula,  then  by  road  17  m. 
(There  is  now  a  road  all  the  way  to  Onl- 
niarg). 
I     Gulmarg  (or  *  *  Meadow  of  Roses  ")  is 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


220 


ROUTE  13  a.       cashmere 


India 


a  lovely,  but  somewhat  rainy,  spot  at 
an  elevation  of  8500  ft.  on  a  cool  plateau 
amongst  pine  forests.  The  fine  snowy 
peak  of  iNanga  Parbat,  nearly  27,000 
ft.,  is  beautifully  seen.  Gulmarg  has 
liunting,  polo,  racing,  cricket,  golf, 
and  other  amusements. 


(2)  PiB  Pakjal  Route  to  Cashmere. 
Ghijratto 


Biding 
or  on  foot. 

28  m.  fihlmber,  D.B. 

43  m.  Saidabad,    D.B.,    crossing    Aditak 
Range. 

56  m.  NowBliera,  D.B. 

70  m.  Ohangas  Serai,  D.B. 

84  m.  Bajaori,  D.B. 

98  m.  ThannaMandl,  D.B. )  Crossing  Rut- 
108  m.  Baramgalla,  D.B.      >     ten  Fir. 

14%  m.  Shupiyan,  D.B. 
160  m.  Sriiuigar. 

This  is  one  of  the  finest  routes  into 
Cashmere.  The  traveller  must  either 
ride  or  walk,  as  it  is  impossible  to 
drive. 

28  m.  Bhimber,  D.  B. ,  a  considerable 
town,  situated  near  the  rt.  bank  of  the 
stream  of  that  name,  and  surrounded 
by  wooded  hills.  The  road,  which  is 
fairly  easy  for  20  m.,  crosses  over  the 
Aditak  range  (2000  ft.)  to 

15  m.  Saidabad,  D.B.  (provisions), 
where  the  Samcmi  Serai  is  worth  a 
visit.  The  road  then  crosses  the 
Kaman  Ooahi  range  (3000  ft.),  from 
the  top  of  which  the  snows  first  come 
in  sight. 

15  m.  Nowshera,  D.B.,  and  camp- 
ing ground  on  the  Tavn  nver,  in  which 
there  is  mahsir  fishing. 

14  m.  Changas  Serai,  D.B.  The 
Tawi  has  to  be  forded  twice  on  the 
way.  The  D.B.  is  built  on  the  rt. 
bank,  about  200  ft.  above  the  river, 
on  an  old  Mogul  Serai.  Here  is  a  very 
fine  view  of  the  snows. 

14  m.  Bajaori,  D.B.  (3094  ft.),  a 
day's  march  to  the  E.  of  which  there 
are  two  hot  sulphurous  springs.  The 
D.B.  is  in  an  old  pleasure  garden  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  overlooking 
on  the  rt.  the  picturesque  town. 

14  m.  Thanna  Haadi,  D.B.,  along 
the  Tawi,  which  becomes  very  narrow, 
the  valley^  also  contracting  consider- 
ably.    It  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 


RuUen  Fir  pass,  with  a  good  road 
running  through  it  from  Punch  to 
Jummoo. 

8  m.  Baramgalla,  D.B.,  crossing 
the  RvUen  i\>  (8200  ft),  easy  ascent, 
verjr  fine  scenery.  From  this  point 
ponies  cannot  be  taken  if  it  is  early  in 
the  year.  The  cost  of  baggage  coolies 
from  Baramgalla  to  Shupiyan  is  about 
1-2.4  an.  each. 

6  m.  Poshiana.  From  this  point 
the  road  passes  along  a  deep  valley, 
crossing  the  Sooram,  torrent  sevenl 
times  by  log  bridges,  and  ending  with 
a  steep  climb.  This  place  is  covered 
with  snow  till  the  end  of  May,  and 
consists  of  a  few  shepherds'  huts,  which 
are  flat-roofed.  Tents  may  be  pitched 
on  the  roofs,  or  the  huts  may  be  oc- 
cupied, but  they  are  roughly  made  and 
draughty.  Proceeding  up  the  Nikma 
Valley  as  far  as  the  summit  of  the 
Pir  Panjal  (11,400  ft),  the  traveller 
obtains  a  magnificent  view  of  the 
Wardwan  and  Astor  range. 

9  m.  Aliabad  Serai.  This  is  not 
habitable  until  the  summer,  owing  to 
the  snow.  It  is  therefore  better  to  go 
along  the  Lai  Grolam  road  to  Ihibchi, 
an  open  meadow  10  m.  farther,  and 
camp  there.  There  are  huts  of  refuge 
on  either  side  of  the  Pir  in  case  of 
storms. 

19  m.  Shnpiyan,  D.B.,  in  the 
Cashmere  valley,  a  pleasant,  easy  walk, 
passing  ffirpur,  R.H.,  on  the  way. 
There  is  camping  ground  here,  and 
supplies  are  procurable  for  the  first 
time  since  leaving  Baramgalla.  Hence 
it  is  a  couple  of  easy  marches  to  Srina- 
gar.  Or  the  traveller  can  march 
through  Mohunpoora  to  Kaiibal,  D.B., 
for  Islamabad  (p.  219),  and  then  pro- 
ceed by  boat  down  the  Jhelum  nver 
to  Srinagar,  about  14  hrs. 

(3)  Jhelum  and  Punch  Route  to 
Cashmebe. 

^^^,        Jhelum  to       ^^fK 
or  on  foot.        •"«*•"«  w     ^j.  ^^  f^^ 

18  m.  Shikarpur.  D.B.    89  m.  SairalL 
26  m.  Tangrot,  D.B.     106  m.  Ponoh,  D.B. 
86  m.  Chowmook.  115  m.  Kahoota,  D.B. 

56  m.  Raidaai.  130  m.  Hyderabad, 

84  m.  Nekl.  D.B. 

66  m.  Berarli  140  m.  Url  (for  end  of 

74  m.  KotU.  Bte.  see  p.  218). 

This  route  is  long,  the  marches  som- 


ROUTE  14.       LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


221 


ihat  difficnlt,  and  supplies  scarce. 
Owing  to  the  steepness  of  the  road  in 
{iaces,  the  traveller  is  recommended  to 
^e  coolies  rather  than  ponies. 

13  m.  SexkabpuR,  D.B.  (Route  15). 
The  road  is  unmetalled,  but  in  good 
jrder  and  level  the  whole  way. 

13  m.  Tangrot,  D.B.  The  road  lies, 
for  the  most  part,  in  the  bed  of  the 
Jhelum,  so  can  only  be  used  when  the 
river  is  low.  The  hshing  here  is  prob- 
ably the  best  in  India. 

10  m.  Chowmook,  crossing  the  Punch 
by  a  feiny.  The  ascent  is  by  a  very 
rough  path  (only  walking  being  pos- 
sible) to  the  village  of 

10  m.  Kaldani,  prettily  situated  in 
a  valley.  Thence  by  the  worst  march 
in  tiie  route  to 

12  m.  Neki,  which  is  the  residence 
of  a  few  cowherds.  Supplies  not  ob- 
tainable. 

8  m.  Berarli,  a  small  village,  where 
there  is  ^ood  spring  water,  and  supplies 
and  oooUes  plentiful. 

8  m.  Eotli,  on  the  1.  bk.  of  the 
Punch.  The  camping  ground  is  through 
the  town,  under  some  trees,  among  a 
lot  of  streams  working  20  flour  mills. 
Supplies,  coolies,  ponies,  etc.,  abun- 
dant. 

15  m.  Sairah,  where  black  partridges 
abound.  The  scenery  here  is  very 
pretty. 

16  m.  Punch,  D.B.,  a  largish  town, 
on  the  rt.  bk.  of  the  Sooran,  the  con- 
^cuous  features  of  which  are  the 
iaja  Moti  Sin^s  palace^  and  the  Fort, 

10  m.  Kahoota,  D.B.,  a  cluster  of 
huts  up  the  Bitarh  valley,  commanding 
a  magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding 
mountains. 

15  m.  Hyderabad,  D.B.,  a  small 
mountain  village,  where  supplies  are 
very  scarce. 

10  m.  XJri,  thence  (see  p.  217)  to 
Baramula  and  Srinagar. 

(4)  Hasan  Abdal  and  Abbotabad 
Bouts  to  Cashmere. 
12  m.  Dedur,  D.B. 
8  m.  Haripur,  D.B. 
22  m.  Al)l)Otaba(l,  D.B. 
16  m.  Manserah,  D.B. 
18  m.  Oarhl  HaMbulla,  D.B. 
22  m.  Domel,  D.B. 
(For  continuation  via  Uri,  see  p.  217.) 

The  traveller  who  takes  this  route 


must  rely  on  the  mail  agents  at  Hasan 
Abdal  and  Abbotabad  for  supplies  and 
information.  The  stages  to  Abbotabad 
are  generally  done  by  ton«u 

Hasan  Abdal,  D.B.  (Route  18,  p. 
212). 

12  m.  Dednr,  R.H.,  a  roadside  serai 
and  camping  ground. 

20  m.  Huripnr,  D.B.,  a  large  and 
flourishing  native  town,  lying  in  a 
richly-cultivated  valley. 

42  m.  Abbotabad,  D.B.  (p.  212). 

58  m.  MaxuMrah,  D.  B. 

76  m.  Oarhi  Habibulla,  D.B. 

98  m.  Domel,  D.  B.,  thence  to  Garhi, 
Uri,  etc.  (p.  217). 

(6)  JUMMOO  TO  SbINAOAR. 

This  is  almost  exclusively  a  tmde 
route  and  is  much  frequented.  Travel- 
lers are  not  permitted  to  go  this  way 
except  with  special  permission  from 
the  Resident  at  Sialkot. 


ROUTE  14 

Lahore  to  Kabaohi 
GxNSitAL  Notes  on  Sind. 

The  refreshment  rooms  on  the  line  from 
Lahore  to  Karachi  and  Quetta  (Chaman)  are 
indifferent.  Notice  for  meals  should  be  given 
to  the  guard,  who  will  telegraph  orders  free  of 
chaise.    The  stationmasters  are  obliging. 

Wherever  there  is  any  shooting  there  is  no 
difficulty  in  obtaining  local  shikaris  and 
camels,  but  they  should  be  engaged  before- 
hand bv  writing.  The  beaters  and  camel  men 
are  all  keen  sportsmen,  but  the  tariff  should 
be  arranged  before  starting.  Camels  cost 
about  fls.1.8  per  dav,  beaters  4  annas  to  8 
annas.  In  nearly  all  parts  of  Sind  there  is 
good  small-game  shooting— many  varieties  of 
duck,  quail,  snipe,  kunje,  oustard ;  and  a  good 
shot  should  have  no  difficulty  in  getting  over 
60  brace  a  day.  Loaded  cartridges  can  be 
obtained  in  abundance  at  Karachi  in  the 
Sudar  Bazaar. 

4  m.  Meean  Meer  west  sta.  military 
cantonment. 

26  m.  Baewind  junc.  sta.  (R.)  for 

34  m.  Ferozepore  and  Rajputana  (see 
Rte.  8). 

88  m.  Gamber  sta. 

103  m.  Montgomery  sta.  (R.),  D.B 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


222 


BOUTE  14.   LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


India 


This  place,  created  under  British  rule 
since  1855,  is  the  headquarters  of  a 
district  formerly  known  as  Gugaira, 
situated  in  the  Ban  Doab,  and  stretch- 
ing across  the  Ravi  into  the  Bechna 
Doab.  Sikh  rule  began  in  1818,  and 
British  in  1849.  On  tne  opening  of  the 
railway  the  headquarters  of  the  dis- 
trict were  moved  here  from  Gugaira, 
and  it  received  its  present  name 
from  Sir  R.  Montgomery,  then  Lieut- 
Governor  of  the  ranjab.  [From  this 
point  may  be  reached  Pak  Pattan,  30 
m.  S.,  near  the  Ghara  or  Sutlej  river, 
is  an  extremely  ancient  place,  first 
known  in  history  as  Jjudhan,  and 
identified  by  General  Cunningham  with 
one  of  the  towns  belonging  to  the 
Sudrakoe  or  Oxudrakoe  of  Alexander's 
historians.  It  was  important  at  a 
later  date  as  the  chief  ferry  over  the 
Ghara.  Now  it  is  best  known  on 
account  of  the  Tomb  of  Farid-u-din, 
a  Mohammedan  saint  of  the  Chisti 
family.  A  great  pilgrimage  of  Moham- 
medans takes  place  here  at  the  time  of 
the  Muharram,  as  many  as  60,000 
attending.] 

116  m.  Harapa  sta.  A  hamlet  now 
of  no  importance,  but  identified  by 
General  Cunningham  with  the  site  of  a 
town  in  the  territory  of  the  Malli  at- 
tacked and  taken  by  Alexander  the 
Great.  The  ruins,  which  are  the  most 
extensive  of  any  along  the  banks  of  the 
Ravi,  lie  to  the  N.  of  the  line  and  close 
to  it.  On  the  N.W.  and  S.  there  is  a 
continuous  line  of  mounds  3500  ft.  in 
length.  On  the  E.  side  there  is  a  gap 
of  800  ft  The  whole  circuit  of  the 
ruins  is  nearly  2^  m. 

About  the  centre  of  the  W.  side  are 
the  remains  of  a  great  Hindu  temple, 
said  to  be  of  the  time  of  Eaja  Harpal. 
The  walls  have  1  een  removed,  and  with 
the  mounds  have  more  than  sufficed 
to  furnish  brick-ballast  for  100  m.  of 
the  Lahore  and  Mooltan  Rly.  A 
little  to  the  E.  is  a  Naugaja  (or  **nine 
yarder")  tomb,  said  to  be  that  of  one 
Nur  Shah.  In  the  plain  below  are 
three  large  stones,  one  with  a  hole  in 
the  middle  lOJ  in.  in  diameter.  They 
are  called  nal  and  mankaf  and  are  said 
to  be  the  thumb  rings  of  the  giant 
buried  in  the  Naugaja  tomb. 


General  Cunningham  attributes  the 
destruction  of  Harapa  to  Muhammad- 
bin-Easim  in  713  a.d.  Harapa  has 
yielded  thousands  of  Indo- Scythian 
coins,  but  not  a  single  Greek  one. 

207  m.  MooltaxL  (MuUan)  City  and 

208  m.  Mooltan  CaxLtonment  (R.) 
D.B.  a^  June.  sta.  From  here  the  Sind- 
Saugar  Railway  runs  W.  (46  m.  to  Ohad 
Ghat)  for  Dera  Ghazi  Khan  (see  p.  224), 
and  N.  for  Dera  Ismail  Khan. 

MooUan  city  (D.B.  1^  m.  N.  of  rly. 
sta.)  is  a  municipal  town,  with  a  pop.  of 
74,500,  of  whom  the  majority  are  Moham- 
medans. It  is  the  capital  of  a  district 
of  the  same  name,  and  is  4  m.  from  the 
left  bank  of  the  Chenab,  and  not  far  from 
the  old  bed  of  the  Ravi  It  is  a  place  of 
great  antiquity,  and  supposed  to  be  the 
capital  of  the  Malli  mentioned  in  Alex- 
ander's time.  Cunningham  supports 
this  view  by  his  discovery  of  a  deposit 
of  ashes  and  burnt  earth  at  a  depth  of 
about  30  to  32  ft.,  which  he  thinks  is 
the  remains  of  a  conflagration  and 
wholesale  massacre  which  took  place 
during  Alexander's  campaign,  owing  to 
the  exasperation  of  his  soldiers  at  his 
having  received  a  dangerous  wound  at 
the  capture  of  the  place.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  founded  by  Kashypa,  the 
father  of  Hiranya-Kashipu,  and  was 
probably  the  Kaspeira  of  rtolemy. 

The  first  mention  of  Mooltan  by  name 
is  by  Hiouen  Thsang  in  641  a.d. 

Istakhri,  who  wrote  in  950  A.D.,  de- 
scribes the  temple  of  the  idol  of  Mooltan 
as  a  strong  edifice  between  the  bazaars 
of  ivory  dealers  and  the  shops  of  the 
coppersmiths.  The  idol  was  of  a  human 
shape,  with  eyes  of  jewels,  and  the 
head  covered  with  a  crown  of  gold. 
Shortly  after,  Mooltan  was  taken  by  the 
Karmatian  chief,  Jelem,  son  of  ShibaD, 
who  killed  the  priests  and  broke  the 
idol  in  pieces.  It  was  restored  in  1138. 
In  1666  A.D.  Thevenot  describes  the 
temple  of  the  Sun  God  as  still  standing, 
and  the  idol  as  clothed  in  red  leather, 
and  having  two  pearls  for  eyes. 

Muhammad  Kasim  conquered  Mool- 
tan for  the  Khalifs,  and  it  was  after- 
wards taken  by  Mahmud  of  Ghazni, 
1005.  Subsequently  it  formed  part  of 
the  Mogul  Empire.     In  1779  Muzaffar 


d  by  Google 


ROUTE  14.      MOOLTAN 


Klftn,  a  Sadozai  Afffhan,  made  himself 
mier,  but  was  killed  with  his  five  sons 
^en  Ranjit's  army  stormed  the  place  in 
laS.  Aurangzib  destroyed  the  temple 
afid  statne  of  the  Sun,  and  no  trace  of  it 
\ns  to  he  found  when  the  Sikhs  took 
Mooltan.  In  revenge  they  turned  the 
timbof  the  Mohammedan  saint,  Shams- 
Mabriz,  into  a  hall  for  reading  the 
^rarUh.  In  1829  the  Sikhs  appointed 
Sawan  Mall  governor.  He  was  shot  in 
:844,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son 
Mulraj.  He  resigned,  and  Mr.  Vans- 
A.gnew  and  Lieut.  Anderson  were  sent 
down  to  receive  the  surrender  of  his 
office.  They  were  murdered  with  his 
connivance  at  the  Ideah,  and  war 
with  the  British  ensued.  On  the  2d 
of  January  1849  the  city  was  stormed 
by  the  army  under  General  Whish,  and 
since  then  the  whole  district  has  been 
goFerned  by  the  English. 

The  heat  of  Mooltan  is  notorious,  and 
the  rainfall  is  little  above  7  in.  The 
saying  is — 

Dust,  beggars,  and  cemeteries 

Are  the  three  specialities  of  Mooltan. 

The  Cantonmentt  to  the  W.  of  the 
town,  was  extended  to  the  S.W.  and 
made  more  defensible  in  1888.  The 
Lines  of  the  N.  Cavalry  are  to  the 
extreme  S.  outside  the  cantonment, 
\vith  the  Artillery  I^ines  to  their  N.,  and 
beyond  these,  in  the  same  direction, 
are  the  hospital  and  D.B.,  with  the  R. 
Catholic  cemetery  to  the  N.W.,  and 
the  Mohammedan  cemetery,  the  Parsi 
cemetery,  and  the  English  church  in 
succession  to  the  N. 

The  first  visit  should  be  to  the  Old 
Port.  Entering  at  the  W.  or  De  Gate 
(from  Dewal  =  temple,  because  the 
ancient  Temple  of  the  Sun  stood  here), 
OS  I  is  the  Shrine  of  Buknn-din,  grand- 
son of  Bhawal  Hakk,  commonly  known 
asRukn-i-'Alam,  "Pillar  of  the  World." 
This  is  an  octagon  of  red  brick,  bonded 
with  beams  of  Sisu  wood,  and  supported 
by  sloping  towers  at  the  angles.  Over 
this  is  a  smaller  octagon,  leaving  a 
narrow  passage  all  round  for  the 
innezzin  to  caU  the  faithful  to  prayers. 
Above  this  is  a  hemispherical  dome. 

The  total  height  is  100  ft.,  but  it 
stands  on  high  ground,  and  it  can  be 


seen  for  50  m.  all  round.  One  of  the 
towers  was  thrown  down  when  the 
powder  magazine  blew  up  in  December 
1848,  and  was  rebuilt  in  faithful  imita- 
tion of  the  old  one,  including  the  timber 
bonds.  The  whole  outside  is  orna- 
mented with  glazed  tile  patterns  and 
string  courses  and  battlements.  The 
colours  used  are  dark  blue,  azure,  aiid 
white,  which,  contrasted  with  the  deep 
red  of  the  finely  polished  bricks,  give 
a  most  pleasing  effect  The  mosaics 
are  not  like  those  of  later  days,  mere 
plain  surfaces,  but  the  patterns  are 
raised  from  i  an  in.  to  2  in.  above 
the  background.  This  adds  to  the 
effect 

This  tomb  was  built  by  the  Emperor 
Tughlak,  1340-60,  for  himself,  but 
given  by  his  son  Muhammad  Tughlak 
as  a  mausoleum  for  Ruknu-din. 

To  the  N.  there  is  a  small  mosque, 
which  has  been  dismantled,  and  over 
the  dome  of  which  is  a  broken  in- 
scription with  the  names  of  the  four 
first  Khalifs.  The  door  faces  E.,  and 
is  made  of  very  old  Shisham  wood ; 
inside  towards  the  W.  is  a  recess 
with  the  Ayat-i-Kursi  carved  in  large 
letters. 

In  an  inner  court  to  the  right  is  an 
Obelisk  about  60  ft  high,  erected  in 
memory  of  Vans-Agnew  and  Anderson, 
who  were  murdered,  at  the  'Idgah  with 
7  cupolas  I  m.  N.  of  the  Fort,  in  1848. 
On  a  white  tablet  on  the  W.  face  of  the 
pedestal  is  the  inscription  which  teUs 
briefly  an  important  chapter  of  the 
history  of  the  ranjab.  The  concluding 
words  are — 

The  annexation  of  the  Paivjab  to  the  Bmpire 

Was  the  result  of  the  War, 

Of  which  their  assassination 

Was  the  commencement 

The  Tomb  of  Baha-nd-din  Zakha- 
-iya,  "The  Ornament  of  the  Faith," 
commonly  called  Bahau  '1  Hakk,  or 
Bhawal  Hakk,  is  as  old  as  the  reign 
of  the  Emperor  Balban  (1264-86),  of 
which  period  there  is  only  one  other 
architectural  specimen.  It  was  almost 
completely  ruined  during  the  siege  of 
1848.  It  was  afterwards  repaired  and 
plastered  over,  but  some  glazed  tiles 
remain  outside.     The  lower  part  is  a 


d  by  Google 


224 


ROUTE  14.       LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


India 


square ;  above  this  is  an  octagon  half 
the  height  of  the  sqaare,  and  above 
that  a  hemispherical  dome.  The  son 
of  Bhawal  Uakk)  whose  name  was 
Sadru-din,  is  buried  in  the  same 
tomb. 

The  cenotaph  is  adorned  with  bright 
green  tiles.  Opposite,  in  the  corner  of 
the  vestibule,  is  the  tomb  of  Nawab 
Muzaffar  Khan. 

About  I  m.  to  the  N.  of  the  Fort  is 
the  Idgah  in  which  Vans  Agnew  and 
Anderson  were  murdered  in  1848.  It 
has  been  restored  to  the  Mohammedans 
as  a  place  of  worship. 

The  Tomb  of  Shams-i-Tabrii  stands 
J  m.  to  the  K  of  the  Fort  on  the  high 
bank  of  the  old  bed  of  the  Eavi  The 
main  body  of  the  tomb  is  a  square  sur- 
rounded by  a  verandah  with  seven 
openings  in  each  side.  Above  is  an 
octagon  surmounted  by  a  hemispheri- 
cal dome  covered  with  glazed  sky-blue 
tiles.  The  whole  height  is  62  ft.  The 
saint  lived  in  the  time  of  Shah  Jehan. 
To  the  left  of  the  entrance  is  a  small 
square  building,  dignified  with  the 
name  of  the  Imambarah. 

[Ezcursioii  to  Dera  Ghasi  Khan.— 

Rly.  via  12  m.  Slier  SJiah  ixxno. ,  37  m. 
Mahmud  Kot  to  47  m.  Ohaii  Ohat.  sta. 
The  Chenab,  about  1  m.  broad,  is 
crossed  at  Sher  Shah,  on  a  splendid 
bridge  of  17-200  ft.  girders.  Ghazi 
Ghat  sta.  is  on  the  1.  beink  of  the  In- 
dus, which  has  to  be  crossed  to 

Dera  Ohaii  Khan,  a  municipal  town, 
and  headquarters  of  a  district  of  the 
same  name,  containing  an  area  of  4877 
sq.  m.  The  city  was  founded  by 
a  Balnch  chief  named  Ghazi  Khan 
Makrani  in  1475  A.D.  The  district 
consists  of  a  narrow  strip  of  land  be- 
tween the  Indus  and  tne  Sulaiman 
Mountains.  The  sights  of  the  place 
are  some  large  and  striking  mosques, 
the  chief  of  which  are  those  of  Ghazi 
Khan,  Abdu  '1  Jawar,  and  Chuta  Ehan. 
The  civil  and  military  cantonments  are 
W.  of  the  town,  which  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Church  Medical  Mission 
to  the  Baluchis.] 

Resuming  the  journey  from  Mooltan, 
the  line  reaches. 

218  m.  Sher  Shah  junc.  sta.,  D.B., 


whence  the  Sind-Saugar  Rly.  branches 
oflf  W.  and  N. 

269  m.  Adamwahan  Bridge,  4224  ft. 
long,  carries  the  Indus  Vallejr  Rly. 
across  the  Sutlej  river.  The  height  of 
the  roadway  above  the  stream  is  28  ft 

272  m.  Babawalpor  sta.  (junc.  for 
Batinda  and  thence  for  IJmballa,  Delhi, 
or  Bewari)  D.B.,  is  a  town  with  about 
20,000  inhabitants,  and  the  capital  of  a 
native  state  under  l^e  political  direction 
of  the  government  of  the  Panjab.  Its 
area  is  about  22,000  sq.  m.,  with  a 
of  nearly  600,000,  of  whom  four- 
are  Mohanunedan.  The  language  is  a 
mixture  of  Sindi  and  Panjabi.  The 
Nawab  of  Bahawalpur  ranks  on  the  list 
of  Panjab  chiefs  next  after  Patiala.  His 
ancestors  came  from  Sind,  and  assumed 
independence  after  the  first  expulsion 
of  Sna  Shiga  firom  Kabul. 

In  1847-48,  Bhawal  Khan,  the  then 
Nawab,  assisted  Sir  Herbert  Kdwardes 
during  the  Mooltan  rebellion,  for  which 
he  was  rewarded  with  a  life-pension  of 
a  lakh  of  rs.  and  the  gift  of  the  dis- 
tricts of  Sabzalkot  ana  Bhaungbara. 
His  son,  S'aadat  Khan,  was  expelled 
by  his  elder  brother,  and  died  a  refugee 
in  British  territory  in  1862.  In  1863 
and  1865  rebellions  broke  out,  but  were 
crushed  by  the  Nawab,  who  died  soon 
after. 

PcUace  of  the  Natoahf  w^hich  is  to  the 
£.  of  the  town,  cost  about  £80,000. 
It  is  a  square  pile,  with  towers  at  each 
comer.  In  the  centre  is  a  hall  for 
holding  receptions.  There  is  a  fountain 
in  front.  At  the  side  are  undeigronnd 
rooms  where  the  thermometer  remains 
at  70**,  while  it  rises  from  100*  to  110° 
in  the  upper  rooms.  Ascending  to  the 
roof,  the  visitor  will  have  an  extensive 
view  E.  towards  the  vast  Desert  of  Bid- 
aneer  which  stretches,  waterless,  away 
for  100  m. 

There  is  a  Horse  Farm,  where  are 
many  fine  animals,  particularly  brood- 
mares. 

The  Jail  is  to  the  E.  of  the  town. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Indus, 
through  an  uninteresting  tract,  the 
rly.  reaches 

417  m.  Beti  sta.  (R.)  A  rest-ctmp 
for  troops  between  Karachi  and  Lahore 
has  been  established  here.     4  m.  S.  of 


d  by  Google 


ROUTE  14.      RETI,  ROHRI 


225 


Beti  are  the  vast  ruins  of  Vijnotf  a 
diief  city  before  the  Mohammedan  Con- 
quest A  mouth  of  the  E,  Nara  Canal 
pee  below)  is  orossed  2  m.  before  reach- 
hg  Rohri,  and  &om  Rohri  runs  due  S. 
through  Khairpur,  and  enters  the  Thar 
Parkar  district.  Seen  from  a  distance, 
Rohri  has  a  striking  appearance ;  the 
houses  being  four  and  five  stories  high, 
with  flat  roofis  surrounded  by  balus- 
trades. 

487  m.  Bohri  sta.  D.B.,  a  muni- 
cipal town  (pop.  9000),  the  capital  of 
a  subdistrict  of  the  same  name,  which 
has  an  area  of  4258  sq.  m.  It  is  on 
the  left,  or  £.  bank  of  the  Indus,  on 
a  rocky  eminence  of  limestone,  inter- 
spersed, with  flints.  It  is  said  to  have 
lien  founded  by  Saiyad  Ruknu-din 
Shah  in  1297  A.D.,  which  was  more 
than  300  years  after  the  Indus  deserted 
its  former  bed  at  Alor  and  came  to 
Bohri.  The  rocky  site  of  Kohri  ends 
on  the  W.  side  in  a  precipice  40  ft. 
high,  rising  from  the  river  bank.  In 
the  latter  part  of  the  rains  the  water 
rises  16  ft.  above  its  lowest  level. 

The  Jwmma  Musjid  is  a  fine  building 
of  red  brick,  with  three  domes,  and 
coated  with  glazed  porcelain  tiles.  A 
Persian  inscription  records  that  it  was 
built  by  Fath  Ehan,  an  officer  of  the 
Emperor  Akbar,  about  the  year  1572 
A.D.  One  of  the  sights  of  the  place 
is  the  Mui  Mubarak^  or  "hair  of  the 
Prophet, "  in  this  case  a  hair  and  a  half. 
They  are  set  in  amber  and  preserved  in 
a  gold  tube  adorned  with  rubies.  It 
is  said  that  the  War  Mubarak,  a  build- 
ing 25  ft  square,  on  the  N.  of  the 
town,  was  erected  about  1545  by  Mir 
Hnhammad  for  the  reception  of  these 
hairs.  It  appears  they  were  brought 
from  Constantinople  by  one  Abdu  '1 
Baki,  whose  descendants  have  still  the 
keeping  of  them.  The  ^Idgah  was 
erected  in  1593  A.D.,  by  Mir  Muhammad 
M'asum.  Near  Rohri  are  three  forests 
covering  68,000  acres,  or  about  90  sq. 
iQ.,  which  were  planted  in  1820  by  the 
Talpur  Amirs,  and  are  now  under  the 
control  of  the  Sind  Forest  Department. 

4  m.  from  Rohri  at  the  mouth  of 
\Indi(Jb\ 


the  Eastern  Nara  Canal,  156  ft.  wide, 
are  the  powerful  Sluice  Gates  which 
regulate  the  supply  of  water  from  the 
Indus.  When  these  gates  are  closed 
during  inundations  it  is  a  wonderful 
sight  to  see  the  fish  trying  to  pass  them. 
Millions  collect  on  these  occasions,  and 
in  attempting  to  leap  the  falls,  fall  back 
into  common  Indian  cots,  made  of  rope, 
which  are  suspended  from  the  arches  of 
the  regulator.  The  fishing  is  let  out  by 
yearly  contract  and  yields  a  handsome 
revenue  to  Government  and  local  funds. 

[ExcuTBion  to  Alor. — While  at  Rohri, 
a  visit  mav  be  paid  to  the  very  ancient 
town  of  Alor,  which  is  only  5  m.  distant 
to  the  E.  This  was  the  capital  of  the 
Hindu  Rajahs  of  Sind,  ana  was  taken 
from  them  by  the  Mohammedans,  under 
Muhammad  Easim,  about  711  a.d.  At 
that  time  the  Indus  washed  the  city  of 
Alor,  but  was  diverted  from  it  by  an 
earthquake  about  962  A.D.,  at  which 
time  the  river  entered  its  present 
channel. 

The  road  from  Rohri  passes  over  a 
bridge  about  600  ft.  long,  which  is  across 
the  ancient  channel  of  the  Indus.  On 
the  farther  side  is  a  village  with  about 
100  inhab.,  and  from  this  an  extensive 
ridge  of  ruins  runs  in  a  N.E.  direction. 
That  which  bears  the  name  of '  Alamgirs 
Mosque  is  picturesque.  Two  of  them 
are  shrines,  one  to  Shakarganj  Shah 
and  the  other  to  Eutbu-din  Shah. 
To  the  former  tomb  people  of  the 
neighbouring  villages  still  make  pil- 
grimages, ft  has  no  dome  or  building 
over  it,  but  is  a  plain,  white,  neat 
tombstone,  with  a  border  of  carved 
flowers.] 

Opposite  to  Rohri,  in  the  Indus,  is 
the  Island  of  Khvxyah  Khizr.  Here  is 
a  mosque  of  great  apparent  antiquity. 
It  has  an  inscription,  the  date  952  a.d. 
The  shrine  of  Ehizr,  who  was  also 
called  Zindah  Pir,  or  "the  living 
saint,"  is  venerated  by  Hindus  and 
Mohammedans  alike. 

A  little  to  the  S.  of  the  isle  of  Ehizr 
is  the  larger  Island  of  Bhakkur.  It  is 
a  limestone  rock  of  oval  shape,  800  yds. 
long,  300  yds.  wide,  and  about  25  ft. 

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high.  Almost  the  whole  of  it  is  occupied 
by  a  fortress,  which  has  two  gateways, 
one  facing  Kohri  on  the  E.,  the  other 
Sukkur,  on  the  W.  The  Amirs  at- 
tached much  importance  to  this  fort. 
But  on  our  advance  to  Kabul  in  1838, 
it  was  placed  at  the  disposal  of  our 
Government,  and  was  used  for  some 
time,  first  as  an  arsenal  and  then  until 
1876,  as  a  prison  for  Baluchi  robbers. 
So  early  as  1327  a.d.,  Bhakkur  seems 
to  have  been  a  place  of  note,  for 
the  Emperor  Muhammad  Tughlak  sent 
persons  of  importance  to  command 
there.  Under  the  Samma  princes  the 
fort  changed  hands  several  times, 
being  sometimes  under  their  rule  and 
sometimes  under  that  of  Delhi.  Dur- 
ing the  reign  of  Shah  Beg  Argun  the 
fortifications  were  rebuilt,  the  fort  of 
Alor  being  destroyed  to  supply  the 
requisite  material.  In  1574  it  was 
delivered  up  to  Keshu  Khan,  an  official 
of  the  Emperor  Akbar.  In  1736  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Kalhoras, 
and  subsequently  into  those  of  the 
Afghans,  who  retained  it  till  it  was 
taken  by  Mir  Rustam  of  Khairpur. 

The  Indus,  which  runs  here  with 
great  rapidity,  is  crossed  by  the  grand 
Lansdoume  Bridge^  erected  on  the  canti- 
lever principle^  connecting  Rohri  with 
the  Island  of  Bhakkur :  the  line  then 
crosses  the  island,  and  is  connected 
with  Sukkur  (see  below)  by  another 
bridge  of  a  single  span.  The  span  is 
840  ft.  from  centre  to  centre  of  the  can- 
tilevers ;  each  cantilever  is  320  ft  long, 
and  the  central  girder  connecting  them 
is  200  ft.  long.  The  roadway  is  18  ft. 
wide  in  the  clear,  or  enough  for  a  line  of 
carts  in  each  direction.  A  single  line 
of  railway  is  laid  in  the  centre.  The 
cart  traffic  of  course  stops  whilst  trains 
are  crossing,  A  path  4i  ft.  wide  for 
foot  and  pony  traffic  is  also  provided  on 
each  side  outside  the  railway,  and  can 
be  used  at  all  times.  The  total  weight 
of  steel  and  iron  employed  is  within 
3000  tons. 

490  m.  Sukkur  sta.  (R.)  D.B.a^ 
The  headquarters  of  the  Sukkur  and 
Shikarpur  subdistrict,  standing  on  the 
rt  bank  of  the  Indus,  has  a  pop.  of 
13,000,  and  is  well  drained  and  clean. 


The  locomotive  shops  of  the  N.  W.  Rly. 
are  here.  A  series  of  low  limestone 
ridges,  without  a  blade  of  vegetation, 
slope  down  to  the  Indus,  and  on  them, 
about  1  m.  ofi",  is  the  European  quarter 
called  New  Sukknr,  to  distinguish  it 
from  the  old  town  of  the  same  name. 
The  white  roads  between  the  ridges 
create  a  glare  ^  during  the  day-time 
which  is  extremely  unpleasant.  In 
1845,  owing  to  a  fatal  epidemic  of 
fever  among  the  garrison,  it  was 
abandoned  as  a  station  for  European 
troops.  There  is  not  much  to  be 
seen,  except  the  tombs  of  Shah  Ehairu- 
din,  built  about  1768,  and  Muham- 
mad  ATasumy  in  the  cantonment  at 
Sukkur  at  the  foot  of  a  tower  90  ft.  hieh 
which  he  erected,  and  which  overlooks 
the  country  for  many  miles.  The  town 
was  ceded  to  the  Khairpur  Amirs,  be- 
tween 1809  and  1824.  In  1838  Shah 
Shiga'a  defeated  the  Talpurs  here  with 
great  loss.  In  1842  it  came  under 
British  rule. 

507  m.  Buk  junc.  sta.  (R.).  From 
here  the  Sind,  Pishin,  and  Quetta  Rail- 
way branches  N".  (see  Rte.  15). 

540  m.  Larkana  sta.  ,D.B.,  is  a  muni- 
cipal town  (pop.  11,000),  the  capital  of 
a  subdistrict  of  the  same  name.  The 
country  surrounding  it  is  fertile  and 
populous,  and  perhap«  the  finest  tract  in 
the  whole  of  Sind.  The  spacious  walks, 
well-laid-out  gardens,  and  luxuriant 
foliage  have  gamed  for  it  the  title  of  the 
Eden  of  Sind.  It  is  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant grain  marts  in  that  country, 
and  is  famous  for  a  species  of  rice  called 
sugdasi. 

There  is  a  large  local  traffic  in  metals, 
cloth,  and  leather.  The  prind^wl 
manufactures  are  cloth  of  mixed  silk 
and  cotton,  coarse  cotton  cloth,  metal 
vessels,  and  leather  goods.  The  fort 
served  in  the  time  of  the  Talpurs  as  an 
arsenal,  and  under  British  rule  it  has 
been  turned  into  a  hospital  and  jaiL 

There  is  no  edifice  in  Larkana  worth 
notice,  except  the  tomb  of  Shah 
Baharah. 

1  Coloured  or  son -tinted  glasses  can  be 
obtained,  and  are  a  great  relief  to  the  eyes, 
even  in  winter,  firora  the  glare  of  the  sand  io 
Sind. 


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ROUTE  14.       SEHWAN 


227 


630  m.  Sehwan  sta.    (D.B.  in  the  old 

Ptrt).  i^    The  chief  town  (pop.  6000), 

117  ft.  above  sea,  of  a  subdistrict  of 

^e  same  name  in  the  Karachi  district. 

Tie  rirer  Aral,  which  is  crossed  by  a 

bidge    with    iron    girders,    formerly 

ibwed  close  to  the  town,  but  has  now 

aaite  deserted  it.    There  are  many  pro- 

essional  mendicants,  supported  by  the 

ffiferings  of  pilgrims  at  the  shrine  of 

Lai  Shahbuz.     The  tomb  of  this  saint 

^  enclosed  in  a  quadrangular  building, 

which  has  a  dome  and  hmtem,  and  is 

adorned  with  beautiful  encaustic  tiles, 

with  Arabic  inscriptions.     Mirza  Jani, 

of  the   Tarkan  dynasty,  built  a  still 

larger  tomb  to  this  saint,  which  was 

completed  in  1639  a.d.  by  Nawab  Din- 

dar  Khan.    The  gate  and  balustrade  are 

>    said  to  have  been  of  hammered  silver, 

[    the  gift  of  Mir  Karam  'Ali  Talpur,  who 

also   crowned  the   domes  with  silver 

spires.     The  chief  object,  however,  of 

antiqaarian  interest  in  Sehwan  is  the 

Fort  ascribed  to  Alexander  the  Great. 

This  is  an  artificial  mound  in  the  N.W. 

'    part  of  the  town,  said  once  to  have 

been  260  ft  high,  but  now  only  60  ft. , 

measuring  round  the  summit  1600  ft. 

X  800  ft. ,  and  surrounded  by  a  broken 

wall.      The  remains  of  several  towers 

are  visible,  but  the  fortifications  are 

mined. 

Sehwan  is  the  centre  of  the  Govern- 
ment system  of  Canals,  37  in  number, 
of  which  the  principal  are  the  W.  Nara, 
30  m.  long,  and  over  100  ft.  wide  at  its 
mouth  ;  the  Ohar^  22  m.  long,  and  80 
ft.  wide  ;  the  Naurarig,  a  continuation 
of  the  Ghar,  21  m.  long,  and  90  ft.  wide ; 
the  Birei-ji-Kur,  27  m.  long,  and  48 
ft  wide ;  and  the  Men  Wah,  23  m. 
long.  The  Indus  here  was  very  deep, 
bttt  daring  the  last  five  years  it  has 
changed  its  course,  and  is  now  nearly 
3  m.  distant  from  the  town  of  Sehwan. 
Half  the  houses  in  this  town  were 
thrown  down  by  a  tremendous  fall  of 
ndn  in  the  end  of  July  1889. 

There  is  good  Shooting  to  be  had  in 
the  Sehwan  district ;  hyenas,  wild  hog, 
wolves,  foxes,  jackals,  the  hog-deer,  and 
the  chinkarahy  or  "ravine  antelope," 
are  common,  but  the  tiger  is  unknown. 

[The  Manchhar  Lakes^c  is  not  very 


far  from  Sehwan  to  the  W.  It  is  formed 
by  the  expansion  of  the  W.  Nara  Canal 
and  the  Aral  river,  covering  an  area 
of  160  sq.  m.  in  the  wet  season, 
but  shrinking  to  about  half  that  size 
at  other  times.  In  the  cold  weather 
the  traveller  might  halt  for  a  couple  of 
days  to  see  the  lake,  where  there  is 
abundance  of  water-fowl  shooting,  and 
excellent  snipe,  quail,  and  partridge 
shooting  round  the  edge  of  the  lake,  and 
an  extraordinary  number  of  fine  fish. 

The  fish  are  generally  caught  with 
spears  or  nets.  The  boat,  which  is 
flat-bottomed,  is  propelled  by  one  man, 
while  another,  armed  with  three  or 
four  light  cane  spears,  8  ft.  long,  and 
barbed  at  the  tip,  stands  at  the  prow 
watching  the  water;  as  soon  as  he 
sees  a  fish  flash  through  the  weeds, 
with  which  the  lake  is  covered,  he 
hurls  a  handful  of  spears  in  that  direc- 
tion, and  is  sure  to  strike  one  or  two 
fish,  which,  as  the  spear  becomes  en- 
tangled in  the  weeds,  cannot  go  far,  and 
are  followed  and  lifted  into  uie  boat. 

For  the  other  method  of  catching  the 
fish,  an  ingenious  circular  enclosure  of 
nets  supported  by  poles  is  laid  down  in 
the  lake.  A  flotilla  of  small  boats 
containing  men  with  drums  and  other 
noisy  instruments  surrounds  the  en- 
closure at  some  distance  and  gradually 
draws  nearer. 

"  The  fish,  frightened  by  the  din,  and 
not  daring  to  escape  through  the  boats, 
press  heavier  and  nearer  to  the  net. 
Then  when  the  boats  approach,  huge 
dambhros  are  seen  flinging  themselves 
into  the  air  to  a  height  of  from  3  to  4 
ft. ,  hoping  to  jump  over  the  lower  net, 
but  only  to  strike  against  the  upper 
one  and  fall  into  the  bag  below,  a  self- 
made  prey.  In  the  meantime,  men 
with  spears  hurl  them  at  the  huge 
gandamSi  which  are  unable  to  leap,  and 
lifting  them  high  in  the  air  over  the 
net,  deposit  them  in  the  boats. 
Divers  then  go  inside  the  net,  and 
examine  it  carefully  under  water,  secur- 
ing such  fish  as  may  be  endeavouring 
to  force  a  passage  through  it.  These 
men  in  their  haoits  seem  almost  am- 
phibious" (Gaz.  of  Sindh,  p.  710).] 

641  m.  Laki  sta.  (R.),  good  quail, 

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ROUTE  14.      LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


India 


duck,  and  snipe-shooting  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. The  Indus  Valley  State 
Railway  runs  through  the  Laki  Paas, 
at  an  elevation  of  200  ft.,  the  Indus 
lying  below.  This  range  of  hills  con- 
tains several  hot  springs,  and  shows 
many  signs  of  volcanic  action  ;  various 
kinds  of  sea-shell,  including  the  oyster, 
are  found.  Lead,  antimony,  and  copper 
are  also  found,  though  not  in  great 
quantities. 

716  m.  Kotri  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  3^  for  Hy- 
derabad across  the  Indus.  The  steamer 
Madock  has  been  converted  into  a  flat, 
and  is  stationed  at  the  Bander  R.  sta. 
as  a  rest-house  for  travellers.  There  is 
a  booking-office  on  board.  There  are 
two  rly.  stas.,  the  Main  Station  (IJ  m. 
from  the  town),  whence  there  is  a  short 
branch  to  the  Bander  Station.  This 
place  with  its  hamlets  has  a  pop.  of 
9000.  The  river  bank  presents  a  very 
animated  scene.  Sidings  convey  goods 
from  the  railway  to  the  river  by  zigzag 
routes,  so  constructed  as  to  suit  any 
condition  of  the  stream  in  flood  or 
drought.  The  civil  station  and  Euro- 
pean quarter  are  N.  and  W.  of  the 
native  town,  and  are  well  planted  and 
well  kept,  and  contain  the  usual 
Government  buildings. 


[From  Eotri  there  is  a  Government 
steam  ferry  to  Oidn  Bandar  whence 
it  is  a  drive  of  about  3^  m.  along  a  fine 
avenue  of  trees  to  carriages  in  readiness 
for  Hyderabad  (1st  cl.  about  2  rs.).] 

HTDB&ABAD(Haidarabad),  D.B.,  has 
a  pop.  of  60,000  inhabitants.  It  is 
situated  on  a  high  part  of  the  rocky 
ridge  called  the  Ganjah  Hills,  in  an 
island  formed  by  the  Indus  and  the 
Fuleli,  a  branch  which,  leaving  the 
main  stream  12  m.  above  the  town, 
rejoins  it  15  m.  below.  The  modern 
city  of  Hyderabad  was  founded  by 
Ghulam  Shah  Ealhora  in  1768.  His 
tomb  is  at  the  N.  W.  of  the  plateau  on 
which  the  town  stands. 

The  Fort  of  Hyderabad  is  of  a  very 
irregular  form,  corresponding  with  the 


natural  shape  of  the  rock,  on  which  a 
wall  of  burnt  brick  from  15  to  30  ft 
high,  thick  at  the  base,  but  tapering 
upwards,  has  been  built.  It  supports 
a  quantity  of  earth  which  has  been 
piled  against  it  inside,  and  is  pierced 
with  numerous  loopholes.  The  bastions 
at  the  salient  angles  give  the  fortress 
an  appearance  of  strength,  but  it  coald 
not  withstand  heavy  artillery.  The 
whole  enceinte  is  about  |  m.  in  circum- 
ference, and  is  towards  the  S.  of  the 
plateau  ;  and  at  the  S.  extremity  of  all 
IS  the  huge  round  tower,  erroneously 
supposed  to  have  been  the  treasury  of 
the  Amirs.  On  the  N.  side  a  trench 
separates  the  citadel  from  the  town.  It 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge  leading  to  one  of 
these  intricate  gateways  which  have  so 
often  yielded  to  a  coup  de  maiiu  Every- 
where else  is  level  ground.  Where  the 
walls  do  not  rise  immediately  from  the 
edge  of  the  declivity,  the  defence  is 
strengthened  by  a  ditch  10  ft  wide 
and  8  ft.  deep.  Within  the  walls  of 
the  Fort  were  formerly  the  residencescf 
the  principal  Amirs,  with  those  of  thai 
families  and  numerous  dependants. 
The  area,  which  is  considerable,  had  its 
streets,  its  mosques,  and  public  build- 
ings, and  was  quite  a  town,  with  a 
dense  population.  These  buildings 
have  now  almost  disappeared,  and  the 
Commissary  of  Ordnance  and  the  Ex- 
ecutive Engineer  divide  the  Fort  be- 
ween  them  as  an  arsenal  and  store- 
house. Mir  Nasir  Khan's  palace  alone 
is  kept  up,  and  is  occupied  by  the 
Commissioner  in  Sind,  on  his  annual 
tour,  and  by  other  officers  of  rank, 
when  visiting  Hyderabad.  Sir  C. 
Napier  frequently  resided  in  this 
palace,  and  in  it  he  held  his  Grand 
Darbar  on  24th  and  25th  May  1844, 
when  every  chief  in  Sind  came  from 
far  and  near  to  submit  himself  to  the 
conqueror.  Most  of  the  buildings  in 
the  Fort  were  painted  within  and  with- 
out in  fresco.  The  mosques  were  faced 
with  Hala  tiles  of  the  gayest  colours, 
so  that  the  whole  had  a  most  gorgeous 
appearance.  Time  and  neglect  have 
made  sad  changes ;  but  there  is  one 
room  in  Mir  Nasir  Khan's  palace 
styled  the  Painted  Chamber,  which  is 
still  tolerably  perfect,  and  gives  some 

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ROUTE  14.      HYDERABAD 


229 


^ea  of  what  the  effect  must  haye  been 
iien  all  was  uninjured.  In  the  re- 
eeses  yarious  historical  subjects  con- 
Ected  with  the  Talpur  family  are 
^lineated.  In  one  recess  is  a  yery 
hdifferently- executed  picture  of  an 
£nglish  gentleman  and  an  Amir,  the 
vork  of  a  natiye  artist,  who  obliter- 
ited  one  of  the  least  popular  subjects, 
md  introduced  these  ngures,  one  of 
which  is  intended  for  Colonel  (Sir 
James)  Outram.  Round  the  chamber 
is  a  balcony  commanding  a  fine 
panoramic  yiew,  and  on  the  wooden 
bdustrade  were  two  sockets,  cut  by 
order  of  Sir  C.  Napier.  A  telescope 
placed  in  one  pointed  to  the  battle-field 
of  Miani,  and  if  moyed  to  the  other 
showed  the  place  where  the  yictory 
of  Dabo  or  Hyderabad  was  gained. 
Above  the  gateway  of  the  fort  is  a  room 
which  looks  down  on  the  principal 
bazaar.  From  this  room,  in  the  after- 
noon, it  ia  worth  while  to  watch  the 
motley  crowds  of  all  nations,  in  various 
costumes,  which  throng  the  mart  below. 
The  visit  to  the  Fort  should  conclude 
with  a  walk  round  the  ramparts  and  an 
ascent  to  the  top  of  the  circular  tower, 
whence  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  with  the  Fuleli,  on  one  side, 
winding  through  the  dusty  plain,  and 
on  the  other  side,  of  the  rapid  Indus, 
with  its  buttress  of  rock  in  the  back- 
ground, will  be  obtained. 

Leaving  the  Fort,  the  traveller  should 
pass  through  the  bazaar  to  the  market- 
place, around  which  new  Hyderabad 
is  fast  rising  up.  As  the  old  town  was 
crowded  and  aifficult  to  improve,  the 
ramicipality  laid  out  new  streets,  and 
erected  a  market-place,  a  school,  and 
other  public  buildings.  Beyond  the 
Jail  are  the  Tombs  of  the  Kalhoras 
OMd  TaZptirSf  which  cover  the  northern 
portion  of  the  hill  on  which  Hydera- 
bad is  built.  The  tombs  of  the  Talpurs 
are  very  beautiful,  but  are  not  in  such 
exquisite  taste  as  that  of  QTmlam  Shah 
KcUhora,  the  description  of  which  may 
serve  for  all.  On  entering  the  enclosure 
by  a  small  but  richly  carved  door,  the 
visitor  is  impressed  by  the  beautiful 
symmetry  of  the  mausoleum,  and  the 
religious  feeling  displayed  in  the  decora- 
tions.   Latticed  windows  in  the  lofty 


dome  sparingly  admit  the  light,  and 
shed  a  subdued  lustre  over  an  exqui- 
sitely carved  marble  tomb,  at  the  same 
time  revealing  the  rich  fresco  paintings 
on  the  walls,  without  giving  them  too 
much  prominence.  The  walls  had  in 
many  places  cracked,  and  bulge  out ; 
but  Government  has  done  what  is  pos- 
sible to  arrest  further  decay.  The 
building  is  quadrangular,  with  a  dome 
in  the  centre  resenibling  in  miniature 
what  may  be  seen  in  the  Mohammedan 
tombs  of  Bijapur.  Over  one  of  the 
archways  is  an  inscription  in  Persian 
written  by  the  orders  of  his  son  Sara- 
farzj  whose  tomb  adjoins,  and  was  built 
in  1785  A.D.  It  is  painted  inside, 
and  is  in  good  repair.  There  are 
four  other  tombs  of  the  Talpur  family — 
that  of  Mir  Skram  Al%  a  domed 
rectangular  building,  with  a  turret 
at  each  corner,  buut  in  1812,  with 
marble  fretwork,  and  roofed  with 
coloured  tiles ;  that  of  Mirs  Murad 
'Ali,  Nur  Muhammad,  Nasir  Khan 
and  Shahdad  Khan,  built  in  1847 
with  white  marble  tombs  inside ;  those 
of  Mir  Ghulam  Shah  and  Fazl  *Ali, 
erected  in  1855 ;  and  that  of  Mir  Mu- 
hammad, built  in  1857.  All  the  Tal- 
pur tombs,  except  Earam  'Ali's,  are 
kept  in  good  order,  at  the  cost  of  sur- 
viving members  of  the  family. 

The  Cantonment  lies  to  the  N.  W.  of 
the  town.  There  is  a  fine  range  of 
Barracks  for  Europeans.  Not  far  off, 
overlooking  the  Gidu  Bandar  Road,  is 
the  Chwrm  of  St.  Thomas,  built  in 
1860,  at  a  cost  of  45,000  rs.  It  can 
hold  600  persons.  It  has  several 
memorial  windows,  and  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  communion-table  is  a  brass 
showing  the  number  of  officers  and 
men  who  fell  at  Miani  and  Dabo 
(1843). 

The  Roman  Catholics  have  had  a 
church  at  Hyderabad  from  the  time 
of  the  conquest. 

In  the  Jail  (for  about  400  prisoners) 
good  Persian  carpets  and  rugs  are  made 
by  the  convicts,  also  mats  and  a  great 
variety  of  cotton  cloths. 

A  speciality  is  a  kind  of  Phulcari 
with  small  pieces  of  talc  or  glass  sewn 
upon  them.  ^  . 

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230 


ROUTE  14.   LAHORE  TO  KARAOHt 


Tndia 


Manufacture!.  — Hyderabad  is  fa- 
mous for  its  enibraidenes  in  silk  and 
gold  and  its  silver  tissaes.  There  are 
4  or  5  famous  fabricants,  each  work- 
ing with  a  different  stitch.  The  pat- 
terns are  of  endless  variety.  All  the 
work  is  made  on  a  simple  wood 
frame,  similar  to  that  formerly  used 
by  ladies  for  worsted  work.  Enamel- 
ling. — In  the  Amirs'  time  there  was  a 
great  demand  for  this  manufacture,  the 
principal  sardars  vying  with  each  other 
in  the  beauty  and  costliness  of  their 
swords,  matchlocks,  and  horse -trap- 
pings, which  were  profusely  decorated 
with  enamelled  ornaments.  In  enamel- 
ling on  gold,  the  colours  red  and  crimson 
are  chiefly  used,  and  blue  and  ^en 
are  the  favourite  colours  with  silver. 
This  trade  is  now  on  the  decline,  as  is 
also  that  of  manufacturing  arms.  Hy- 
derabad was  renowned  for  its  sword- 
blades  and  matchlock  barrels,  but  there 
are  now  only  one  or  two  families  who 
work  in  this  line.  Seal  Engraving  is 
a  business  of  great  importance  in  the 
East,  where  the  Persians  and  the  arti- 
sans of  Delhi  are  celebrated  for  their 
skill  in  this  craft.  At  Hyderabad 
there  are  very  skilful  engravers  who 
work  on  cornelian,  silver,  and  other 
metals,  generally  in  the  Persian  or 
Arabic  character.  A  small  seal,  with 
the  purchaser's  name  in  Persian, 
mounted  on  a  handle  of  enamel-work, 
is  a  good  memento  of  Hyderabad.  Lac- 
quered work  is  admirably  executed 
here. 

If  the  traveller  has  time  he  should 
drive  or  ride  down  the  Bellasis  Eoad^ 
along  the  bank  of  the  river,  and 
up  by  the  entrenched  camp  to  the 
Bandar  Road  Avenue,  which  is  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  avenues  in  India. 

The  climate  of  Hyderabad  is  very 
hot,  dry,  and  unhealthy,  but  at  night 
in  the  summer  there  is  a  fairly  cool 
breeze  off  the  river.  The  average  rain- 
fall is  only  6  in.,  while  that  of  Karachi 
is  7  in.,  and  the  climate  is  damp. 

The  traveller  may  wish  to  visit  tiie 
famous  haUle-Jields  of  Miani  and  Dabo^ 
on  which,  in  1843,  was  decided  the  &te 
ef  Sind.  The  three  places,  Hyderabad, 
Miani,  and  Dabo,  form  a  triangle,  Miani 
being  6  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  Hyderabad 


and  Dabo  4^  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  Miani, 
and  5^  m.  to  the  £.  of  Hyderabad. 
The  whole  journey  may  be  made  in  a 
day,  starting  very  early  in  the  morning, 
and  using  ndinff  camels,  for  the  ro^ 
is  verjr  bad  to  Miani ;  and  to  Dabo 
there  is  no  road. 

At  Miani  a  monument  marks  the 
scene  of  this  great  action,  and  on  the 
E.  side  of  the  pillar  are  the  names  of 
the  officers  who  fell,  and  other  informa- 
tion. The  spot  is  enclosed  in  a  well-  : 
kept  garden. 

[There  is  a  railway  from  Hyderabad 
to  Shudipalli  for  TTmerkote,  the  chief 
town  of  I%ur  and  Parkar,  in  which 
district  there  is  excellent  snipe,  quail, 
and  wild  fowl  shooting,  also  gazelle 
and  antelope.]  Returning  to  Eotri 
Sta.,  the  line  continues  S.W.  to 

768  m.  Jungshahi  sta.  (R.) 

The  best  plan  for  sightseers  is  to 
take  a  carriage  to  the  MakkaUi  Hills, 
and  to  arrange  for  camels  thence  to  gv 
the  round  of  TaUa,  the  Tombs,  KaJfn 
Katy  etc,  and  return  by  the  carriige 
to  Jungshahi.  (Charge  for  camels, 
R.1.8  each  per  diem.)  The  sculpture 
on  many  of  the  tombs  is  very  elaborate, 
and  many  of  the  mosques  are  veiy 
beautiftd.  There  are  several  re^ 
houses  (no  provisions)  in  this  district,  ' 
and  good  small  same  shooting,  also 
Tpwra  and  stoamp  deer, 

[From  here  Tatta  i^  (pop.  8000)  can 
best  be  visited — 13  m.  S.E.  by  a  good 
road.  The  place  is  known  locally  as 
Nagar  Thato.  Snipe  and  bustard 
shooting  is  to  be  obtained  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

Tatta  is  situated  4  m.  W.  of  the 
Indus,  on  ground  slightly  raised  on 
the  ruins  of  former  houses.  Fever  is 
very  common,  and  a  dreadful  mortality 
took  place  in  1839  in  the  British  canton- 
ment. According  to  Macmurdo,  Tatta 
was  built  in  1522,  and  destroyed  by 
one  of  Akbar's  generals  in  1591.  Ham- 
ilton, who  visited  it  in  1699,  calls  it  i 
very  larae  and  rich  city,  about  8  n. 
long  and  1}  m.  broad.  He  states  that 
80,000  persons  had  just  before  his  visit 
died  of  the  plague,  and  that  it  was  half 
depopulated.  Pottinger  states  that  when 
Nadir  entered  at  the  head  of  his  army 
in   1742  there  were  40,000  weavers, 

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ROUTE  14.      TATTA 


231 


20,000  other  artisans,  and  60,000 
lealers  in  various  trades.  These 
aambers  have  now  dwindled  to  ahout 
300  weavers,  100  artisans,  and  500 
traders.  In  1854  a  municipality  was 
established.  The  present  trade  of  Tatta 
consists  mostly  of  silk  and  cotton 
manufactures.  The  Iwngis  or  scarfs 
are  much  admired. 

In  1758  a  factory  was  established 
here  bj;  the  E.  L  Company  and  with- 
drawn in  1775,  re-established  in  1799, 
and  again  given  up.  There  is  a  tomb  on 
the  Makkalli  Hills  (pronounced  Makli) 
near  Tatta,  not  far  from  the  large  tombs 
of  the  old  rulers  of  Sind,  erected  over 
the  remains  of  Edward  Cooke,  who  was 
probably  connected  with  the  factory. 
Tl]«  affectionate  fidelity  of  the  servant 
who  erected  the  tomb,  but  would  not 
parade  his  own  name,  is  deserving  of 
lasting  remembrance. 

The  most  remarkable  sights  at  Tatta 
are  the  Grand  Mosque ;  the  manufac- 
tures of  silk  lungis  and  stamped 
cottons ;  the  tombs  at  the  Makkalli 
Bill ;  Pir  Pattan  ;  and  Kalyan  Kot. 

The  Orand  Mosque,  near  the  centre 
of  the  town,  was  begun  by  Shah  Jehan 
in  1647  A.D.  and  finished  by  Aurangzeb. 
It  has  been  a  magnificent  edifice,  but 
is  now  much  decayed.  The  roof  is 
sormounted  by  100  domes,  each  painted 
in  a  different  way.  The  inscriptions 
curved  round  the  great  stone  arch,  and 
tiiose  upon  the  two  stones  bearing  the 
date  of  the  edifice,  are  admirably  exe- 
eated  in  large  letters.  Not  far  from 
this  is  the  old  house  inhabited  by  Mr. 
Crowe,  the  first  British  Resident  in 
Sind. 

The  Makkalli  Hill  Cemetery  is 
about  IJ  m.  W.  of  the  town.  The 
range  runs  from  W.  to  N.,  being  8  m. 
long  and  under  1  m.  broad.  The  area 
of  tnis  vast  cemetery  is  said  to  be  6  sq. 
m.  and  to  contain  1,000,000  graves, 
the  custom  of  Mohammedans  requiring 
that  all  tombs  shall  be  single,  and  that 
none  be  re-opened  to  receive  more  than 
one  body.  This  place  began  to  be  used 
(or  interment  about  1500  a.d.  The 
aommit  of  the  rocky  ridge  looking 
towards  Tatta  is  crowned  by  an  im- 
mense *Jdgah,  or  place  where  public 
prayers  are  recited  on  the  two  great 


Mohammedan  festivals  called  *Idy  or 
Easter.  The  building  consists  of  a 
long  wall,  with  a  low  flight  of  steps 
leading  to  the  mihrab  and  the  mimbar 
(or  pulpit).  Tall  slender  minarets  of 
elegant  form  spring  from  either  ex- 
tremity. The  date,  1683  A.D.,  is  in- 
scribed, in  beautiful  large  Na>sCalik 
characters. 

Behind  this  building  vaulted  domes, 
arches  and  towers,  porticoes,  gateways, 
and  vast  colonnades  rise  in  apparently 
endless  succession  above  snapeless 
mounds  of  ruins.  Many  of  the  build- 
ings must  be  the  result  of  protracted 
years  of  labour.  In  some  the  cupola  is 
surrounded  by  a  ring  of  smaller  domes, 
with  a  single  or  double  colonnade,  en- 
closing a  ^lery  and  platform,  broken 
by  pointed  arches  in  each  of  the  four 
fronts.  Others  are  girt  by  lofty  stone 
walls,  forming  square  courtyards,  with 
entrance  gates  leading  to  the  different 
doorways.  Some  consist  of  heavy 
marble  canopies,  on  fantastic  coliunns. 
Many  are  built  of  coloured  and  glazed 
tiles  and  bricks,  the  work  probably  of 
Persian  bricklayers,  who  are  renowned 
for  their  skill.  So  skilfully  and  care- 
fully made  are  these  bricks,  that  each 
rings  like  metal,  and  breaks  as  clear 
as  glass.  Nothing  can  be  richer  than 
the  appearance  of  the  inscriptions  on 
the  bricks,  in  large  white  letters,  upon 
a  dark  purple  ground. 

KaZyan  Kot,  "Fort  Prosperous,** — 
not  as  Sir  A.  Bumes  and  Lieut.  Wood 
write  it,  Kalan  Kot,  "  Great  Fort, " — is 
called  by  the  Mohammedans  Tughlaka- 
bad.  It  is  a  ruin,  somewhat  less  than 
2  m.  S.  of  Tatta,  and  according  to  some 
it  was  erected  by  Alexander  the  Great. 
However  that  may  be,  its  antiquity 
cannot  be  doubted.  The  name  is  San- 
scrit, and  from  its  plan  it  may  be  fairly 
inferred  that  it  was  built  before  the  use 
of  cannon.] 

787  m.  Dabheji  sta.  is  the  place 
from  which  Bambura  may  be  visited  ; 
it  is  6  m.  distant. 

[^ambnra  is  supposed  by  the  natives 
to  be  the  site  of  tne  most  ancient  sea- 
port in  Sind.  It  may  have  been  the 
ancient  Debal,  the  first  city  captured  by 
Muhammad  Easim,  having  its  name 


232 


ROUTE  14.   LAHORE  TO  KARACHI 


from  a  temple  in  the  fort  of  great 
celebrity.  It  is  unquestionably  of 
great  antiquity,  and  the  remains  of 
ramparts,  bastions,  towers,  etc.,  prove 
its  former  importance.  Many  coins 
also  have  at  dinerent  times  been  found 
among  its  ruins.  The  town  of  Gharo 
is  about  3  m.  to  the  E.] 

819  m.  Karachi  (Kurrachee)  Can- 
tonment (or  Frere  Street)  sta.3^  — 
The  M'Leod  or  City  sta.  is  2  m.  farther 
on  towards  the  harbour. 

Karachi,  lat.  24*  47',  long.  66°  56'  E. 
pop.  104, 000,  distance  from  London  6283 
m.,  is  the  chief  town  in  Sind.  It  is 
situated  at  the  N.  extremity  of  the 
delta  of  the  Indus,  and  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Commissioner,  the 
Judicial  Commissioner,  and  Brigadier- 
General.  Karachi  existed  as  a  mere 
fort  from  1726  to  1842,  when  it 
was  yielded  up  by  the  Talpur  Amirs 
to  the  British  Government.  Then  it 
began  to  rise  rapidly  as  a  flourishing 
sea -port  with  a  trade  whose  annusil 
value  now  exceeds  £4,000,000.  N.  of 
the  sta.  are  the  Napier  Barracks,  a  fine 
block  of  buildings  extending  over  the 
maidan  for  1  m.,  with  accommodation 
for  1500  European  troops.  W.  of  the 
Lines  are  the  B.  C.  Church  and  General 
Hospital.  In  front  of  this  line,  ^  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.,  is  the  Frere  Hall 
(built  in  1865  in  honour  of  Sir  Bartle 
Frere).  The  building  contains  a  large 
ballroom,  a  public  meeting-room,  and 
the  Karachi  General  Library.  In 
front  of  the  Hall  is  the  bandstand, 
where  the  European  regimental  band 
plays  on  Saturday  evenings  between 
6  and  8.  Adjoining  the  Frere  Hall 
compound  are  the  nandsome  build- 
ings and  gardens  belonging  to  the 
members  of  the  Sind  Club.  Passing 
beyond  it  is  the  Masonic  Hall,  and 
in  front  of  it,  on  the  road  leading  to 
the  sea,  is  the  Gymkhana  and  Ladies' 
Club,  standing  in  a  well-kept  garden. 
To  the  W.  and  in  a  line  with  the  Gym- 
khana is  the  compound  of 

Government  House,  built  by  Sir  C. 
Napier,  bought  from  him  by  Govern- 
ment, and  now  the  residence  of  the 
Commissioner  in  Sind.  Behind  it  is 
Trinity  Church  (the  garrison  church), 


with  its  square  campanile,  150  ft  li 
It  was  built  at  the  instigation  of; 
Bartle  Frere,  and  contains  a  fine  stal 
glass  window  put  up  in  honour  of 
C.  Napier  and  the  victors  of  Mi« 
Beyond,  W.,  are  the  Artillery 
house.  Barracks,  and  Arsenal ;  ai 
few  yds.  farther  is  St.  Andrew's  Sool 
Church. 

Here  is  the  heart  of  the  busy  Si 
Bazaar,   with    its   Post   Office,   i^'' 
Telegraph  Office  ;  near  this  is  the  8i|/^ 
Arts  College,  containing  the  Husei 
the  Bums  Gardens,  and  the  Yi< ' 
Market, — a  very  tine  building 
high  clock  tower.     Near  the  market 
the  Eduljei  Duishaw  Dispensary, 
building  of  graceful  proportions.    1 

W.  of  the  market  are  the  Oover:        ^ 

Gardens,  where  the  Native  r^imentlK 
band  plays.     The  Zoological  CoUef^:^ 
tion  in  the  gardens  is  considered  ^Ji^ 
best  in  India,    and  is  well  "worth  £7 
visit.     The  road  S.  from  the  gardep^^ 
by  the  banks  of  the  Layari  river,  1< 
to  the  C.  M.  S.  Mission  Churdh 
School.      This  is  the  commencem< 
of  the  Native  town.    Past  the  M 
Church,  on  the  rt.,  are  the  Civil 
pital,  the  Ctovemment  High  School,' 
Native  General  Library,  Small  CanalP. 
Court,  and  Max  Deuso  Hall.     On  th^ 
S.   is  the    melancholy  -  looking  JalL 
flanked  by  its  four  Sind  mud  watch-  '\ 
towers.     Good  carpets,    etc.,    can  be  a 
purchased    here  at    very    reasonable^ 
prices.     Near  at  hand  are  the  shops  of 
the  far-famed  Sind  silversmiths. 

From  Government  House  the  M'Leod 
Road  to  the  sea  leads  to  a  fine  block 
of  buildings  containing  the  quarters  of  ° 
the  European  and  Persian  Gulf  Tele- 
graph Staff,  the  General  Post  Office, 
and  the  Municipal  Offices.  On  the  1. 
of  the  road  is  the  Karachi  City  Bly. 
Sta.  The  late  rapid  extension  of  rail- 
wa]rs  has  made  Karachi  the  gateway  of 
Central  Asia,  — a  fact  foretold  more  than 
60  years  ago  by  that  far-seeing  states- 
man Sir  C.  Napier.  Within  easy  walk 
of  the  City  sta.  are  the  Court  House, 
containing  the  Judicial  CommiaBioner, 
District  Judges,  and  Town  Magistrate's 
offices,  the  Bolton  Market,  the  Cham- 
ber of  Commerce,  the  Custom  House, 
and  the  offices  and  godowns  of  the  Euro- 
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Jahn.Bartiia'U>m«w&  Co..K()iii? 


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ROUTE  14.       KARACHI 


233 


pean  merchants,  Banks,  and  Steam- 
ship Agencies. 

Passing  the  Customs  2  m.  along  the 
Nipier  Mole  isEiamari  (4  m.  from  the 
caatonment.  Carriages,  the  hest  in 
ladia,  fare  2  Rs.  Travellers  should 
be  careful  to  take  first-class  carriages), 
a  busy  shipping  port,  with  its  long 
be  of  wharves,  and  connected  with 
tie  cantonment  and  native  town  by 
nil,  tram,  road,  telefi^aph,  and  tele- 
ihone.  In  the  old  days  this  was  an 
Mand.  At  Eiamari  the  Karachi 
tlarbour  commences.  It  is  a  first- 
ilass  harbour,  capable  of  accommodat- 
n^  the  largest  steamers,  and  owes  its 
jzistence  to  the  strenuous  exertions  of 
Sir  Bartle  Frere.  It  was  designed  by 
lir.  Walker,  commenced  in  1864,  and 
wmpleted  in  1883.  There  is  very  good 
lea-nshing  to  be  had  in  the  harbour, 
ffld  a  good  supply  of  boats.  Karachi 
8  famed  for  its  nsh  and  oysters.  Near 
pe  Napier  Mole,  on  the  backwater, 
(  the  Sind  Boat  Club  House.  The 
Menoes  of  the  harbour  consist,  beside 
he  marine  defences,  of  three  large 
OTts.  At  the  Manora  headland,  the 
iiitrance  to  the  harbour  on  the  W., 
he  largest  of  the  three  forts  is  situated. 
!^ear  the  seaport  of  the  Punjab  is  a 
i^tiionse  showing  a  fixed  light  120  ft. 
ibove  sea-level,  visible  17  m.  in  clear 
A-eather.  On  the  meridian  of  Karachi 
.here  is  no  land  between  Manora  and 
ihe  South  Pole. 

For  steamship  companies  see  Index, 
rhe  most  economical  route  for  pas- 
lengers  and  goods  to  Quetta,  Mooltan, 
[jahore,  and  the  North- West  Provinces 
>f  India  is  vid  Karachi. 

Water  Supply.  —  The  water  in 
Karachi  is  perfectly  pure,  being  col- 
ected  in  underground  reservoirs,  in 
he  rising  ground  16  m.  N.E.  of 
Karachi,  and  conveyed  in  pipes.  The 
Municipal  Secretary  would  afford  every 
nformation  and  permission  to  see  the 
^ells  and  Beservoirs. 

Very  little  rain  falls  at  Karachi,  the 
iverage  for  the  year  being  about  7  in. 
The  showery  months  are  July  and 
August,  and  there  are  one  or  two 
tieavy  showers  about  Christmas.     The 


end  of  Maj  and  part  of  June  and  first 
fortnight  m  October  are  hot ;  Nov., 
Dec,  Jan.,  and  Feb.  and  March  delight- 
fully cold  and  dry  ;  remaining  months 
damp  with  constant  cool  sea  breeze. 

Clifton,  3  m.  S.  of  the  cantonment, 
a  favourite  afternoon  ride  and  drive, 
stands  on  the  sea,  and  is  approached  by 
a  good  road.  There  is  a  fine  sandy 
beach  here  extending  S.E.  for  miles — 
on  this  beach  thousands  of  turtles  in 
August,  Sept.,  and  Oct.  come  up  at 
night  to  lay  their  eggs ;  and  the  turtle- 
turning  picnic  parties  arranged  for 
moonlight  nights  are  among  the  stand- 
ing amusements  of  the  place.  During 
the  cold  weather  the  tanks  and  jeels 
about  Karachi  swarm  with  small  game 
birds,  while  in  the  Beluch  Mountains, 
25  m.  W.  of  Manora,  good  ibex  shoot- 
ing is  obtainable.  In  the  Hub  river,  i^ 
the  boundary  between  India  and  Belu- 
chistan  (20  m.  from  Karachi)  good 
mahsir  fishing  can  be  had. 

[Magar  Pir,  7  m.  N.  of  Karachi,  is 
well  worth  a  visit.  For  a  detailed 
account  of  this  curious  place  see  Dry 
Leaves  from  YouTig  Egypt, ^  p.  218,  and 
Burton's  Sind,  voL  i.  p.  48.  As  the 
place  can  be  comfortably  seen  in  an 
afternoon  from  Karachi,  there  is  no 
necessity  to  stop  there,  the  dhartmala, 
or  rest-house,  not  being  comfortable  for 
Europeans  to  stay  at.  The  road  out 
in  parts  being  very  sandy,  an  extra 
horse  is  attached  to  the  carriage ;  the 
charge  for  the  trip  being  generally 
12  rs. 

From  the  roots  of  a  clump  of  date 
trees  gushes  out  a  stream  of  hot  water, 
the  temperature  of  which  is  183'. 
On  the  W.  side  of  the  valley  is  a 
temple  surrounded  by  a  thick  grove, 
and  close  to  a  swamp  caused  by  the 
superfluous  waters  of  the  spring. 
There  is  also  a  tank  surroundea  by  a 
5  ft.  mud  wall,  and  containing  some  80 
or  90  alligators,  which,  as  they  attract 
a  considerable  number  of  visitors,  the 
Mohammedans  in  charge  of  the  Pirs 
Tomb  regard  as  sacred,  for  a  brisk  and 
remunerative  business  is  done  by  these 
custodians  in  killing  goats  for  visitors 
1  See  the  Library  in  th^  Frere  .Hall. 

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234 


ROUTE  15.   EUK  JUNCTION  TO  QUETTA,  ETC. 


India 


to  see  the  alligators  fed.  It  is  a 
curious  fact  that  the  so-called  alligators 
are  really  crocodiles,  and  are  a  different 
species  from  the  long-snouted  Ohamal 
of  the  Indus.] 


ROUTE  15 

RuK  Junction  to  Shikarpur, 
Jaoobabad,  Quetta,  and  Chaman. 

Bnk  June.  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  is  15  m. 
on  the  Karachi  side  of  Sukkur  (see 
p.  226).  Proceeding  by  the  Sind- 
Pishin  Rly.  we  reach 

11m.  Shikarpur  sta.  D.B.,  i/i  a  muni- 
cipal town  and  headquarters  of  a  district 
of  the  same  name.  The  pop.  43,000^  of 
whom  1 6, 000  are  Mohammedans.  The 
great  trade  road  to  Baluchistan,  Kanda- 
har, and  Central  Asia,  and  the  Bolan 
Pass,  for  which  Shikarpur  has  been  the 
depot,  passes  through  it.  The  railway 
encourages  direct  trading,  and  is  likely 
to  injure  the  commerce  of  the  place. 
The  town  is  situated  in  a  tract  of  low- 
lyinc  country,  annually  flooded  by 
canals  from  the  Indus,  and  only  190 
ft.  above  sea-level. 

The  Chhoti  Begwri,  a  branch  of  the 
Sind  Canal,  flows  to  the  S.  of  the 
town,  and  another  branch,  the  Baiswah, 
passes  on  the  N.  The  soil  in  the 
▼ioinity  is  very  rich,  and  produces 
heavy  crops  of  grain  and  fruit,  especially 
dates,  mangoes,  oranges,  and  mulberries, 
all  of  which  are  excellent 

Up  to  1865  Shikarpur  was  not  a  clean 
town,  but  on  the  Municipal  Act  being 


brought  into  force  in  that  year,  great 
sanitary  improvements  were  effected. 
The  bazaar  in  Shikarpur  is  coverod 
in  on  account  of  the  heat  in  summer, 
Shikarpur  and  Jacobabad  and  Sibi 
being  about  the  hottest  places  io 
India.  The  trains  from  Jacobabad 
to  Sibi  only  go  at  night  on  account  ol 
the  heat  in  the  desert  that  the  rail- 
way crosses.  The  old  bazaar  has  bees 
lengthened,  and  the  prolongation  of  it, 
called  the  Stevxirt  Qanj  Market^  after 
a  popular  district  officer,  is  well  boilt 
and  commodious :  it  is  the  best  bazaar 
in  Sind.  To  the  E.  of  the  town  are  3 
large  tanks,  called  Sarwar  Khan's  tank, 
Gillespie,  and  Hazari  tanks.  There  » 
abundance  of  water  for  irrigation  and 
other  purposes,  but  the  climate  is  very 
hot  and  dry,  and  the  rainfall  for  twel?e 
years  averaged  only  5.15  in. 

In  the  Jail,  postms  (pronounced 
poshteens),  or  sheepskin  coats,  bas- 
kets, reed  chairs  covered  with  leather, 
carpets,  tents,  shoes,  etc.,  are  made  bjr 
the  prisoners. 

There  is  a  legend  which  ascribes  the  | 
foundation  of  Shikarpur  to  the  Dand 
Putras.  The  history  of  the  place  up 
to  1824  is,  however,  uncertain,  bat  in  | 
that  year  it  came  into  the  peaceable 
possession  of  the  Amirs  of  Sind.  Id 
1848,  with  the  rest  of  the  country,  it 
fell  to  the  British, 

36  m.  Jacobabad  sta.,  D.B»  This  was 
the  chief  military  frontier  station  before 
Quetta  was  occupied.  It  is  a  muni- 
cipal town,  and  capital  of  the  frontier 
district,  which  contains  an  area  of  475 
sq.  m.  The  station  itself,  iDduding 
tne  military  camp,  has  11,000  inhabit- 
ants, of  whom  7000  belong  to  the  1 
town.  The  heat  in  summer  is  very 
great,  and  grass  is  laid  upon  the  roads 
to  keep  the  dust  down. 

The  town  was  planned  and  laid  oat 
on  the  site  of  the  village  of  Khangarb 
by  General  John  Jacob,  the  distis-  | 
guished  frontier  officer  and  commander 
of  the  Sind  horse,  said  by  Outram  to 
be,  after  Lord  Napier  of  Magdals, 
the  best  soldier  in  India.  He  w^M  t 
Residency  of  considerable  size.  Wheo 
General  Jaeob  first  arrived  in  Ui 
Sind,  the  whole  country  aboat  Kl 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


its 
heo  I 


ROUTE  15.     siBi,  Era 


235 


^h  was  in  a  state  of  anarchy,  bodies 
«  mounted  robbers — Bugtis,  Dumkis, 
Burdis,  or  Maris, — swept  the  plains 
md  robbed  and  murdered  those  they 
(Dcountered.  Ehangarh  itself  oifered 
I  stout  resistance  to  the  5th  Bombay 
'  ff.I.,  but  General  Jacob's  rule  put  an 
end  to  all  these  troubles,  and  to  him 
i  more  than  to  any  other  officer  the  peace 
of  Upper  Sind  was  due.  Of  late  years 
Jacobabad  has  decreased  in  population 
and  importance.  It  is  garrisoned  by  a 
Native  cavalry  regiment. 

121  m.  mthri  sta. 

133  m.  Sibi  iunc  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
This  place  is  in  the  valley  of  the  river 
Nsri,  in  the  territory  of  the  Ehan  of 
Ehelat.  It  is  just  at  the  entrance  of 
the  Bolan  Pass.  Sibi  was  occupied  by 
the  British  in  the  name  of  Shan  Sujah 
from  1839-42.  The  old  fort  was  used 
as  a  commissariat  depot.  The  place 
was  ceded  to  the  British  by  the  Treaty 
of  Gnndamuk  in  1879. 

From  Sibi  to  Bostan  junc,  there  are 
two  lines — the  Northern  or  Sind-Pishin 
Railway  b^  Eamai,  which  has  maxi- 
mum gradients  of  1  in  45  and  traverses 
a  country  inhabited  by  Pathans.  The 
Southern  line  is  carried  through  the 
Bolan  PasSf  and  is  called  the  Quetta 
Loop  Line.  Its  steepest  gradients  are  1 
in  25.  The  inhabitants  are  all  Baluchis. 
The  Southern  Bailway  is  in  many  places 
a  mere  surface  line,  and  is  injured  by 
erery  heavy  flood  of  the  Bolan  river. 
Both  roads  are  full  of  interest  There 
are  spots  on  the  Hamai  line  where  the 
scenery  is  unsurpassed  in  the  whole 
world  for  its  weird  grandeur.  The 
traveller  must  at  any  sacrifice  of  time 
arrange  to  see  these  routes  by  day- 
light. 

A  word  of  warning  is  necessary  to  a 
visitor  starting  on  this  journey.  In 
the  winter  cold  of  from  22"  to  23** 
F.  below  zero  is  not  at  all  un- 
common on  the  higher  parts  of  the 
line,  whilst  in  summer  128**  inside 
the  house  is  not  an  unfrequent  tem- 
perature at  Nari.  It  is  scarcely  neces- 
sary to  say  that  the  consequences 
of  insufficient  clothing  may  he  very 
serious  to  travellers  or  their  servants 


who  make  this  trip  as  part  of  a  cold 
weather  tour. 

The  Hamai  Rovie, — Leaving  Sibi 
the  first  7  m.  are  in  open  country. 

At  140  m.  (from  Ruk)  Nari,  the 
road  enters  the  hills  and  traverses  most 
difficult  passes,  constantly  crossing  and 
re-crossing  the  Nari  river  and  its  tribu- 
taries, 'file  difficulties  of  construction 
on  this  part  of  the  line  were  very  great. 
The  scenery  will  reward  sustained  at- 
tention to 

162  m.  Koohali  sta. 

191  m.  Harnai  sta.  D.B.  A  good 
road  diverges  here  N.E.  to  the  military 
cantonment  of  LoraZai  on  the  frontier 
road  that  runs  from  Dera  Ghazi  Ehan 
£.  on  the  river  Indus  to  Pishin  in  the 
W. 

197  m.  Nasak  Frontier  sta. 

208  m.  Shahrig  sta.,  (R.)  where  a 
halt  is  made  for  refreshments.    ^ 

225  m.  Dirgi  sta.    Thence  to 

280  m.  Mangi  sta.,  D.B.-  [This  is 
the  station  for  Ziarat  (22  m.)«  the  hot 
weather  resort  for  residents  of  Belu- 
chistan.  Ziarat  is  a  valley  8000  ft. 
above  the  sea,  with  the  hills  clothed  in 
juniper  forests.]  The  scenery  is  very  fine. 
In  this  length  the  ChappaRift  is  passed. 
Here  a  huge  mountain  has  the  appear- 
ance of  having  been  cracked  from  top 
to  bottom  through  the  solid  mass  of 
limestone.  The  rift  itself  is  passed  at 
nearly  300  ft  above  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  and  the  traveller  at  several 
places  seems  suspended  in  the  air.  In 
approaching  and  leaving  the  rift  the 
train  constontly  runs  in  and  out  of 
tunUels  and  across  high  bridges.  The 
mountainous  country  continues  to 

252  m.  Fullers  Camp  sta.  From 
there  to 

268  m.  Bostan  junc  sta.  (for  Quetta) 
(R. )  it  is  comparatively  open. 

Leavinff  Quetta  behind  for  the  time, 
the  traveller  may  continue  his  journey 
to  the  Afghan  frontier  on  the  way  to 
Kandahar. 

About  14  m.  beyond  Bostan  junc. 
the  Lora  River  is  passed,  the  first  stream 
the  traveller  will  have  seen  on  the 
Central  Asian  watershed,  all  the  rivers 

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236 


ROUTE  16.       RtTK  JUNCTION  TO  QUETTA,  ETC. 


India 


he  has  hitherto  crossed  draining  into 
the  Arabian  Sea. 

298  m.  Gulistan  sta.  In  the  infancy 
of  these  lines  a  short  surface  railway 
was  laid  from  here  towards  the  Gwaja 
Pass,  an  alternative  route  to  Kandahar. 
It  is  not  now  used,  the  main  line 
turning  due  N.  to 

306  m.  EiUa  Abdnlla  (R.) 

316  m.  Shela  Bagh  is  at  the  foot  of 
the  KqjaJc  Pass,  and  near  the  S.E.  end 
of  the  tunnel  passing  under  the  Kwaja 
Amran  Mountains.    This  tunnel  is  2| 


descent  into  the  Eadanai  Valley,  which 
lies  far  below  Chaman,  and  the  distance 
to  Kandahar  will  be  about  85  m. 

The  traveller  must  now  retrace  his 
steps  to  Bostanjunc,  and  is  advised 
to  return  to  Sind  by  the  Quetta  Loop 
Line,  which  traverses  the  Bolan  Pass. 
The  railway  line  from  Bostan  to  the 
Bolan  traverses  the  Quetta  Valley, 
which  is  fertile  and  populous.  It  has 
been  administered  by  British  officers 
since  1877.  Passing  7  m.  Knchlak, 
and  13  m.  Beleli  we  reach 


/Hcul  Khan 

*"           QUETTA. 

English  Miles 

*'"'"'^*v!SL/a  BJtgh 

S^^amu,  Khan 

^-^/■^t^— ^    o     5    ip          ^         3P 

SEa. 

^zy 

Sanitta 
'Spezandai      ^ ^^^*V^ 

1  /«T^''«I:>r^ 

I.'      §*           jYafuKarez^ 

^ 

%£jf^_J^ 

P\     M            i&stanJuncV 

'"'^^^^^9^^"      S    E    W    E    S    r>^^Ml       ^^ 

<l  ^        ^r\  u,  ./ 

^-^    .             \.a^^^3r 

/^^l:{>:^==^^^^''' 

C         ^^ 

r^^A 

/              \            (  Sar.i<ib\% 

^S^                           jT' 

3-'      i      I        ii 

^^^X     ^ 

J'^z^             ^ 

"         \)     J\  ^p^*^"^\. 

■^KStStt^/'-fco/on 

V                 ^^intanqt                    Thai 

j  \    yK6tal Darwazpi 

L       V«               raa/i</o/ 

--— ' — I'^'S/        ^y^^^ 

Afaofl^V 

^^^^^O    WchaKjlfiZi^j-^ 

hb'tQUlft^K^ 

/   1      ffyLvLStwiz 

BibiNanAj\^ 

^.^MaterKachh 

/^Ss^-o^s. 

■^af"'' 

/y      AkVo       ^ 

/J  KiiitSipMuat 

^qf   ^(/ 

\J3tjSibi  June. 

1            „;s 

J^Kunni^^ 

■^pL.... 

m.  long.  Passing  through  it  we  reach 
the  present  ending  of  the  line  at 

335  m.  Chaman  sta.,  where  there  is 
a  small  militanr  outpost. 

The  Kojak  Pass  is  surmounted  by  a 
fine  military  road,  and  those  who  have 
the  opportunity  should  ascend  it  (7500 
ft)  to  see  the  magnificent  view,  W.  over 
the  Kadomi  Plain,  and  N.  beyond  Kan- 
dahar, which  is  hidden  by  intervening 
hills. 

When  the  line  is  continued  to  Kanda- 
har it  will  necessarily  make  a  long  bend 
to  the  N.  to  obtain  length  for  the 


JValMer  &-Bcut*Uscj 


21m.  Quetta  sta.  aOc(R.),D.B.  Itisso 
called  by  the  Afghans,  but  is  designated 
by  the  Brahuis,  the  people  of  the  country, 
Shot,  It  is  situated  at  the  N.  end  of 
the  Shal  Valley,  and  is  very  conveni- 
ently placed  as  regards  Khelat,  from 
which  it  is  distant  103  m.  N.  The 
town  is  surrounded  by  a  mud  wall,  and 
has  two  gates,  one  to  the  E.  and  another 
to  the  S.,  which  latter  is  called  the 
Shikarpuri  Gate.  N.E.  stands  the  Mifii 
or  Fort,  a  former  residence  of  the  Khan 
of  Khelat,  from  which  there  is  a  very 
extensive   view   of  the  neighbouring 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  16.   BAH  ARAN  PORE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


villey.  It  is  now  used  as  an  arsenal 
for  the  force.  Beleli  is  another  ai*ti- 
fidal  mound  in  the  lines  of  that  name. 
Qietta  is  surrounded  by  strongly-forti- 
fied lines,  and  commanding,  as  it  does 
lith  its  strongly-fortified  outpost  of 
Bdeli,  both  the  Kqjctk  and  Bolan  Passes, 
it  forms  one  of  the  most  important 
frontier  posts  of  our  Indian  Empire. 
It  has  rapidly  increased  and  prospered 
dnce  the  British  occupation,  and  now 
contains  about  12,000  to  16,000  in- 
habitants, of  whom  many  are  Afi^hans. 
In  summer  the  climate  is  considered 
very  pleasant,  the  heat  beins  tempered 
by  cool  breezes  from  the  lofty  hills 
which  surround  the  valley,  but  in 
winter  the  cold  is  very  severe.  On  the 
whole,  the  station  is  now  regarded  as 
one  of  the  best  in  our  Indian  Empire. 
Nomerous  gardens  and  orchards  abound 
in  the  suburbs,  and  the  water-supply 
is  good. 

Quetta  was  occupied  by  British 
troops  in  the  first  expedition  to  Kabul, 
&nd  Captain  Bean  was  appointed  the  first 
Political  Agent  Since  1876  a  British 
political  officer  has  again  resided  at 
Quetta  under  the  official  designation 
oif  the  Governor-General's  Agent  for 
British  Baluchistan,  a  district  ceded  to 
us  by  the  Treaty  of  Gundamuk.  Dur- 
ing the  Afghan  campaigns  of  1878- 
1880,  Quetta  formed  the  base  of  opera- 
tions for  the  Bombay  column.  It  is 
now  the  headquarters  of  a  strong 
brigade,  and  a  flourishing  native  town 
hi8  sprung  up  close  to  the  cantonments. 

47  m.  Kotal  Darwaia  sta.  Lookiug 
back  on  the  ascent  to  this  place  there 
isa  beautiful  view  of  the  Quetta  Valley. 
From  this  commences  the  Bolan  Pass. 
The  ruling  gradient  of  the  railway  is  1 
in  40,  but  in  places  it  is  as  steep  as  1 
in  25.  The  passage  of  this  defile  occu- 
pies an  important  place  in  the  history 
of  all  our  Afghan  campaigns. 

The  Bolan  River ^  a  torrent  rising  at 
Sir-i-Bolan,  flows  through  the  whole 
length  of  the  pass,  and  like  all  mount- 
ain streams,  is  subject  to  sudden  floods ; 
in  one  of  which,  in  1841,  a  British  de- 
tachment was  lost  with  its  baggage. 
When  the  stream  was  not  swollen, 
however,  artillery  was  conveyed  through 
without  any  serious  difficulty.    In  1839 


a  Bengal  column,  with  its  artillery, 
consisting  of  8-in.  mortavs,  24-pounder 
howitzers,  and  18-pounder  guns,  went 
through  the  Bolan  in  six  days.  The 
narrowest  parts  of  the  pass  are  just 
above  Khundilani,  and  Deyond  Sir-i- 
Bolan.  At  the  Khundilani  Gorge  the 
cliflfs  of  conglomerate  on  either  side 
rise  to  a  height  of  800  ft,  and  when 
the  stream  is  in  flood  it  completely  fills 
the  gorge.  At  Sir-i-Bolan  the  rocks 
are  of  Imiestone,  and  the  passage  is  so 
narrow  that  only  three  or  four  men  can 
ride  abreast.  The  temperature  in  the 
pass  during  summer  and  autumn  is  very 
high  ;  water  is  abundant  and  good,  but 
firewood  is  scarcely  procurable.  The 
pass  was  infested  by  plundering  Balu- 
chis  and  Brahms,  who  lived  by  robbing 
caravans,  and  deterred  peaceably  dis- 
posed tribes  from  settling  in  the  valleys ; 
out  since  the  British  occupation  these 
depredations  have  been  completely  sup- 
pressed. Trade  is  prospering  in  the 
pass,  and  cultivation,  so  far  as  climate 
and  soil  permit,  is  progressing.  From 
Bibi  Nani  a  mountain  road  leads  to 
Klielat,  distant  110  m.,  vid  Barade, 
Rudbar,  Narmah,  Takhi,  and  Kishan. 
The  bottom  of  the  pass  is  reached  at 
Riudli,  and  there  are  no  special  obstacles 
on  the  way  into  Sibi. 


ROUTE  16 

Saharanpore,  by  Oudh  and  Rohil- 
CFND  Railway,  to  Hardwar, 
Bareilly,  Ltjcknow,  Fyzabap, 
Benares,  and  Mogul  Sarai. 

Saharanpore  sta^  is  between  Delhi 
and  Umballa  (see  p.  194). 

22  m.  Boorkeesta.  (Rurki),  D.B.,  a 
modem  manufacturing  town  and  mili- 
tary station,  stands  on  a  ridge  overlook- 
ing the  bed  of  the  Solani  river.  Up  to 
1845  it  was  merely  a  mud-built  village, 
it  is  now  a  flourishing  town  of  16,000 

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238 


ROUTE  16.   SAHARANPORE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


inhabitants,  with  broad  metalled  road- 
ways meeting  at  right  angles,  and  lined 
with  excellent  shops.  The  Ganges 
Ccmal  passes  to  the  £.  of  the  town 
between  raised  embankments.  It  is 
the  headquarters  of  the  Oanges  Canal 
workshops  andiron  foundry,  established 
in  1845-1852. 

The  Thomason  Civil  Engineering 
College,  was  founded  in  1847.  The 
students  are  partly  English  youths  born 
in  the  country,  partly  Eurasians  and 
natives  ;  with  special  classes  for  soldiers 
picked  for  their  ability.  There  are  a 
Church,  Dispensary,  Police  Station, 
Botanical  Gardens,  Post  Office,  and  a 
Mission  School  of  the  S.  P.  G.  There 
is  also  an  excellent  Meteorological 
Observatory. 

33  m.  Lhaksar  June.  sta.  [A  branch 
line  from  here  runs  N.  16  m.  to  Hard- 
war,  ffiving  access  to  Dehra  Don  and 
the  hill-stations  of  Mussoorie,  Landour, 
and  Chakrata  (see  Rte.  17).] 

73  m.  Nagixia  sta.  (R.) 

59  m.  Najibabad.  [Branch  line  to 
Kotdwara  15  m.,  whence  a  road  18  m. 
to  the  military  hill  station  of  Loms- 
dovmey  which  is  garrisoned  by  two 
native  regiments.] 

120  m.  Moradabadsta.  ^Oc  D.B.,  lies 
at  the  S.E.  of  the  city,  i  m.  S.  of 
the  junction  with  the  Meerut  road. 
Moradabad  (pop.  73,400)  is  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Ramganga  river. 
Beyond  the  jail,  to  N.  W.  of  town,  are 
the  Cantonments  and  civil  station. 
It  is  noted  for  carved  wood  work. 

SL  PauVs  Church  is  W.  of  the  D.B. 

About^  m.  N.  of  therailway  sta.  is  the 
American  Churchy  built  by  their  Metho- 
dist Mission  in  1874.  It  is  used  as  a 
school,  except  during  hours  of  service. 
The  Mission  nas  also  a  vernacular  school 
in  the  city.  The  office  of  the  Tahsildar 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  is  a 
handsome  white  building.  1  m. 
from  this  church  is  the  Zil'a  School, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ramganga, 
^hich  is  here  crossed  by  a  bridge  of 
ooats.  To  the  W.  of  the  school  is  the 
Badshai  Musjid.  The  date  is  in  the 
reign  of  Shah  Jehan,  1628-58  A.D. 
The  principal  mosque,  to  the  S.  of  the 
school,  is  a  plain  large  building,  with 
■^n  inscription  in  the  central  alcove 


inside  in   Persian.     The   date    corre- 
sponds to  1636  A.o.     N.  of  the  school 
are  the  ruins  of  Rustam  Khan's  fort, 
the  walls  of  which  are  of  burnt  brick, 
and  are  from  4  to  6  ft.  thick ;  it  is 
quite  close  to  the  Ramganga.    A  la^rg* 
well  here  is  called  the  Mint  Well,  be- 
cause it  supplied  water  to  the  Mint  in 
which  Rustam  Ehan  coined  his  money. 
What  occurred  at  Moradabad  during 
the  Mutiny  has  been  told  by  Eaye  in 
his  Sepoy  War,  vol.  iii.  p.  252.     The 
29th  B.N. I.,  t>osted  at  this  station, 
were  for  some  time  kept  steady  by  Mr. 
Cracroft  Wilson,  the  Judge,  but  the 
gunners  of  the  N.   Artillery  showed 
from  the  first  unmistakable  signs  of  an 
inclination  to  revolt     On  the  18th  of 
May  a  regiment  from  Meerut,  which  had 
mutinied,  came  down  upon  Moradabad, 
and  arrived   at  the  Gangan  Brid£;e. 
They  had  with  them  a  considerable 
treasure,  which  they  had  carried  off 
from  Zafamagar.    Mr.  Wilson  moved 
against  them  with  a  detachment  of 
the  29th,  under  two  excellent  officer^ 
Captain  Faddy  and  Lieut.  Clifford,  and 
a  body  of  Irreg.  Horse.    He  surprised 
the  20th  asleep,  and  eight  or  ten  of  them 
were  seized,  one  shot  dead  by  a  trooper^ : 
and  the  treasure  captured.     Next  dayj 
the  mutineers  of   the    20th    entered] 
Moradabad,  when  one  was  shot  dead! 
by  a  Sikh  Sepjoy  of  the  29th,  and  four! 
were  made  prisoners.     The  slain  mani 
was  a  relative  of  one  of  the  29th,  who 
prevailed  on  a  number  of  his  comrades 
to  go  to  the  jail  and  get  his  body,  and 
also  to  rescue  the  military  prisoners. 
The  guard  at  the  jail  fraternised  with  | 
these  men,  and  all  the  prisoners  in  the  ■ 
jail  were  released,  but  the  Adjutant  of 
the  29th  and  Wilson  with  a  few  Sepoys ' 
and  a  few  Irregulars  captured  150  of  | 
the  prisoners,  and  lodged  them  again  | 
in  the  jaiL    In  this  manner  Wilson  eon« 
tinned  to  make  use  of  the  29th,  though 
in  a  dangerous  mood,   and  he  even 
disarmed  two  companies  of  Sappers  who 
marched  in  from  Koorkee  and  had  mat 
inied.   But  when  the  news  of  the  mutiny 
at  Bareilly  arrived  it  became  impossible 
to  restrain  the  Sepoys  any  longer,  and 
Wilson  had  to  make  over  the  trwisun* 
to  them,   and  escape  with  the  other 
civilians  and  their  wives  to  Meemt 


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ROUTE  16.       SAHARAIJPORE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


Before  visiting  the  Residency,  the 
traveller  should  on  no  account  fail  to 
stop  at  the  Museum  (called  in  verna- 
cular Ajaib  Ghar,  '^ curiosity  house"), 
in  order  to  study  the  Model  of  the 
Besidency  made  by  Chaplain  Moore. 
By  so  doing  he  will  start  with  a  far 
better  ffrasp  of  the  relative  positions  of 
the  buudings  and  of  the  scenes  of  the 
memorable  siege  than  he  would  other- 
wise have.^  It  represents  the  Residency 
before  the  clearances  were  made.  It 
shows  the  great  disadvantages  under 
which  the  besieged  fought,  as  the 
enemy  were  close  to  them  all  round, 
and  under  cover.  But  this  model  is 
not  the  only  attraction  to  the  Museum  ; 
it  also  contains  an  extremely  interest- 
ing collection  of  Buddhist  sculptures 
and  fragments  of  architecture  from 
Muttra  and  other  places  which  have 
been  brought  together  here.  Amongst 
them  is  one  fragment,  unearthed  in  1891 
by  Dr.  A.  Fiihrer,  which  possesses  very 
considerable  archaeological  interest.  It 
is  a  torana  bearing  a  relief  representing 
a  stupa  worshipped  by  Centaurs  and 
Harpies,  or,  as  the  Hindus  would  say, 
Einnaras,  and  Garudas  or  Suparnas. 
Centaurs  have  been  found  on  the 
Buddhist  sculptures  at  Bharhut  and 
Gaya,  while  Muttra  has  furnished  the 
Silenus  groups  and  Hercules  strangling 
the  Nemean  lion.  This  find  is  a 
further  addition  to  the  monuments 
which  prove  the  influence  of  Hellen- 
istic art  among  the  Hindus  of  the  last 
centuries  preceding  our  era. 

The  Besidency.— This  term  is  now 
applied  to  the  cluster  of  buildings 
which  became  famous  during  the 
Mutiny,  and  not  only  to  the  Residency 
building  itself.  Their  total  length 
from  N.W.  to  S.E.  was  2150  ft,  and 
from  E.  to  W.,  that  is,  from  the  Baillie 
Guard  to  Gubbins's  Battery,  1200  ft. 
The  first  thing  the  traveller  will  see  on 
his  visit  to  the  Residency  is  an  Obelisk ^ 
erected  by  Lord  Northbrook,  in  front 
of  the  Baillie  Guard,  with  an  inscrip- 
tion in  memory  of  the  native  officers 
and  Sepoys  who  died  near  this  spot 
nobly  performing  their  duty. 

On  the  evening  of  the  17  th  of  May 

1  See  lAicknow  and  Oude  in  the  MiUinVt  by 
Lieut-General  M'Leod  Innes,  R.B.,  V.C. 


a  part  of  the  32d  Foot,  with  guns,  had 
been  brought  into  the  Residency  from 
the  cantonments  (see  Kaye,  vol.  iii.  p. 
437),  and  with  them  came  great  numbers 
of  Englishwomen  and  children.  The 
Treasury  contained  over  60  kkhs 
of  rupees.  A  guard  of  Sepoys  had  been 
in  charge,  but  a  European  guard  was 
now  substituted.  The  defences  of  the 
Residency  and  its  buildings,  beginning 
from  the  Baillie  Guard  on  the  E.  and 
proceeding  to  the  N.,  were,  1st, 
Alexander's  Battery ;  2d,  Water  Gate 
Battery ;   3d,  Redan  Battery ;  4th,  a 

falisade ;  and  then  turning  S.,  the 
nnis  Garrison,  the  Bhusa  Gnard, 
Onimaney's  Battery,  the  Gubbins's 
Garrison,  and  Gubbins's  Battery,  the 
Sikh  Square ;  and  turning  to  the  E. ,  the 
Cawnpore  Battery,  Thomas's  Battery, 
Anderson's  Garrison,  Post  Office  Garri- 
son, Judicial  Garrison,  Sago's  Guard, 
and  Financial  Ganison.  The  gateway 
of  the  Baillie  Guard  was  an  ordkarf 
gateway,  commanded  by  Lieut.  AitkeE 
On  entering  through  it.  Dr.  Fayri^ 
house  will  be  seen  to  the  left,  50  ft. 
back.  In  a  room  in  this  house  Sir 
Henry  Lawrence  died,  and  a  witten 
notice  calls  attention  to  the  fact  At 
100  ft.  from  the  Baillie  Guard  is  a 
small  pillar  inscribed  "Financial  Post," 
and  this  is  the  first  of  a  series  of  sndi 
pillars  which  surround  the  Residency, 
and  mark  the  spots  where  the  different 
detachments  of  the  garrison  were  posted. 
The  ground  to  the  W.  of  this  pillar 
rises  m  mounds,  and  a  little  way  to 
the  S.E.  of  this  pillar  is  another  with 
"  Sago's  Post "  ;  then  comes  "  Ger- 
mon's  Post."  At  the  top  of  the  slope, 
and  to  the  rear  of  Germon's,  was 
"Residency  Post."  To  the  5.  is 
'*Post  Office  Post,"  and  in  line  with 
Germon's  is  "Anderson's  Garrison." 
To  the  W.  of  Anderson's,  in  the  same 
line,  is  the  Cawnpore  Battery  pillar. 
This  was  the  most  dangerous  post  of 
all.  The  mutineers  had  rifles  fixed  in 
rests  in  the  house  opposite,  and  swept 
the  road  that  led  through  the  Residency 
enclosure  here.  To  show  one's  self  in 
that  road  was  certain  death.  At  50  ft  to 
the  N. W.  is  Duprat's  pillar.  Duprat^ 
a  gallant  Frenchman,  who  had  served 
in  the  French  army.     On  W.  side  of 

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241 


it  was  the  "  Martini^re  Post."  The  boyg 
of  the  Martinifere  School  were  employed 
iiiinany  ways,  but  took  no  part  in  the 
actual  lighting.  Johannes's  house  was 
30  yds.  to  the  S.  outside  the  defences. 
In  the  extreme  W.  is  a  pillar  marking 
Gubbins's  house,  to  the  W.  of  which 
las  the  Sikh  square.  To  the  E. 
is  Ommaney's  house,  and  E.  of  it 
Begam  Kothi,  a  large  building  in 
vhich  the  ladies  were  quartered,  and 
where  they  were  comparatively  safe. 
A.t  the  extreme  N.  is  a  mandir  or 
temple.  Beyond  Begam  Kothi  to  the 
N.  W.  is  the  Residency,  the  finest  build- 
ing in  Lucknow,  with  a  subterraneous 
apartment,  in  which  the  women  of  the 
32d  were  located.  Close  to  this  is  an 
artificial  mound  80  ft.  high,  which  now 
has  a  handsome  white  marble  Cross, 
20  ft  high  at  the  summit.  This  is  the 
Lawrence  Memorial,  and  on  it  is  in- 
scribed— 

In  memory  of 

MAJOR-GEN.  SIR  HENRY  LAWRENCE, 

KO.B., 

And  the  brave  men  who  fell 

In  defence  of  the  Residency. 

1867. 

The  traveller  should  go  round  the 
entrenchments  of  the  Residency,  and 
will  do  well  to  ascend  the  tower,  which 
is  propped  up,  and  56  ft.  high.  There 
is  a  fine  view  from  the  top.  Below  it 
is  spread  out  the  Cemetery,  the  most 
interesting  spot  in  Lucknow,  where 
2000  heroic  men  and  women  lie.  It  is 
shaded  with  tall  trees,  festooned  with 
creepers,  and  laid  out  with  flowers  and 
walks.  The  monuments  are  numerous 
and  interesting.  A  simple  tomb  marks 
the  spot  where  Henry  Lawrence  lies 
buried,  and  on  it  is  inscribed  the  touch- 
ing epitaph,  dictated  by  himself— 

Here  lies 

HENRY  LAWRENCE, 

Who  tried  to  do  his  duty. 

Hay  the  Lord  have  mercy  on  his  soul  1 

Bom  28th  of  June  1806. 

Died  4th  of  July  1857. 

Here  follows  a  very  brief  account  of 
what  took  place  before  the  attack  on 
the  Residency  and  during  its  siege : — 

The  first  startling  event  that  occurred 
was  the  mutiny  of  the  7th  Oudh  Irreg. 
Infantry,  3rd  May  1857,  at  Musa  Bagh, 
[India] 


a  palace  of  one  of  the  ex-king*s  wives, 
situated  at  4J  m.  from  the  Resi- 
dency. Major  Gall,  commanding  the 
4th  Irreg.  Cavalry,  on  being  informed 
of  the  imminent  danger  of  the  Euro- 
pean officers,  galloped  up  to  the  vicinity 
with  his  troopers.  Soon  after  Sir  H. 
Lawrence  arrived  with  a  mixed  force 
of  Europeans  and  natives.  The  mu- 
tineers then  broke  and  fled,  but  some 
were  made  prisoners,  and  others  gave 
up  their  arms.  Sir  H.  Lawrence,  a 
few  days  afterwards,  held  a  darbar  in 
the  Cantonment  Residency ;  the  troops 
were  drawn  up,  and  two  native  officers, 
who  had  given  information  of  the 
intended  outbreak,  were  promoted. 
Sir  H.  Lawrence  harangued  the  troops 
and  the  city  was  tranquil  for  some 
weeks  afterwards.  On  the  23d  of 
May,  two  detachments  of  cavalry  were 
sent  to  Cawnpore,  to  clear  the  road 
between  it  and  Agra.  Near  Mainpuri 
the  troopers  mutmied,  and  killed  one 
or  more  of  their  officers,  the  rest  escaping 
by  flight. 

On  the  30th  May  the  Mutiny  began 
in  the  cantonments,  and  quickly  became 
general.  Brigadier  Handscombe  was 
shot  dead,  as  was  Lieut.  Grant,  of  the 
71st.  The  mutineers  attacked  Sir  Henry 
and  his  staff  at  the  artillery  grouna, 
but  were  driven  off  with  some  rounds  of 
grape,  which  killed  many  of  them.  On 
the  31st  of  May  a  Mr.  Mendes  was  mur- 
dered in  his  own  house,  in  the  city. 
Martial  law  was  now  proclaimed ; 
but  Sir  Henry  was  of  opinion  that  the 
Residency  would  stand  only  a  fort- 
night's siege.  Owing  to  Sir  Henry's 
foresight,  and  by  his  orders,  supplies  of 
wheat  and  all  sorts  of  provisions  were 
brought  into  the  Residency  and  Machchi 
Bhawan,  which  had  belonged  to  Nawab 
*Ali  Ehan,  and  was  bought  by  Sir 
Henry  for  50,000  rs.  It  was  sur- 
rounded by  high  walls  and  towers. 
Towards  the  N.  it  commanded  the 
Iron  and  Stone  Bridges.  The  place, 
however,  proved  of  little  service.  The 
cholera  soon  broke  out  in  it,  and  there 
were  not  sufficient  men  to  hold  both  it 
and  the  Residency.  On  the  1st  of  July, 
the  garrison  having  been  withdrawn, 
the  Machchi  Bhawan  was  blown  up. 
On  the  11th  of  Junei^ie  cavalry  of  the 

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ROUTE  16.   SAHABANPORB  TO  HOGUL  SARAI 


India 


Military  Police  mutinied,  and  the 
infantry  followed  their  example ;  but 
one  Subahdar,  one  Jam'adar,  six  Ha- 
waldars,  and  26  Sepoys  remained  faith- 
ful, and  continued  to  guard  the  jail. 
Meantime,  very  large  bodies  of  mutin- 
eers were  advancing  on  Lucknow,  and 
on  the  30th  of  June  Sir  Henry,  with  a 
small  mixed  force,  marched  out  to  dis- 
perse them.  He  was  defeated,  losing 
some  guns  and  119  Endish  soldiers. 
The  rebels  now  pressed  the  siege  of  the 
Residency  with  vigour.  On  the  2d  of 
July  Sir  Henry  was  wounded  while 
resting  on  his  couch  in  his  room  by  a 
shell ;  and  after  he  had  made  over  the 
office  of  Chief  Commissioner  to  Major 
Banks,  and  conferred  the  chief  militaiy 
commaud  on  Colonel  Inglis,  he  passed 
away  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  July. 
The  Coolies  who  had  been  building  the 
works  of  defence  all  fled,  and  with 
them  went  most  of  the  domestic 
servants.  The  strongest  post  that  the 
besieged  had  was  the  Kedan  Battery,  at 
the  N.E.  angle,  built  and  fortified  by 
Captain  Fulton,  of  the  Engineers. 
It  formed  rather  more  than  three- 
fourths  of  a  circle,  and  was  elevated 
considerably  above  the  street  below. 
It  was  armed  with  two  eighteen-pounders 
and  one  nine-pounder,  which  could  play 
on  the  whole  river's  side  and  the 
buildings  on  the  opposite  bank.  Along 
the  Redan,  as  far  as  the  hospital,  was 
a  wall  of  fascines  and  earthwork,  with 
loopholes  formed  by  sandbags,  through 
which  the  besie^ea  fired  with  certain 
effect ;  and  outside  the  Residency  and 
the  hospital,  and  as  far  as  the  Baillie 
Guard,  was  a  clear  space,  1000  yds. 
long  and  400  wide,  which,  being  ex- 
ceedingly low,  formed  a  glacis  for  the 
entrenchments  above. 

The  Residency,  with  its  lofty  rooms, 
fine  verandahs,  and  large  porticoes,  its 
range  of  subterraneous  apartments,  its 
ground  floor  and  two  upper  stories, 
afforded  accommodation  to  nearly  1000 
persons — men,  women,  and  children. 
The  hospital,  formerly  the  banq^ueting 
hall,  had  only  two  stories.  The  front 
rooms  were  given  to  officers,  the  back 
part  was  made  a  dispensary,  and  the 
other  rooms  allotted  to  soldiers.  A 
battery  of  three  guns  was  placed  be- 


tween the  Water  Gate  and  the  hospital 
The  right  wing  of  the  hospital  was 
used  for  making  fuses  and  cartridges, 
and  in  front  of  it  was  a  battery  of  three 
mortars.  The  Baillie  Guard  was  a 
continuation  of  the  hospital,  but  on 
much  lower  ground.  A  part  of  it  was 
used  as  a  store-room,  part  as  the 
treasury,  part  as  an  office,  and  the  rest 
as  barracks  for  the  Sepoys,  who  gir- 
risoned  it  under  Lieut.  Aitken.  Vr. 
Fayrer's  house,  like  the  Baillie  Guard, 
faced  the  E.  It  was  commanded  by 
Captain  Weston  and  Dr.  Fayrer.  The 
Post  Office  was  a  very  important 
position,  commanding  the  jail  and 
mosque  to  the  right,  and  the  Clock 
Tower  and  offices  of  the  Tara  Kothi  to 
the  left,  all  being  outside  the  entrench- 
ment. It  was  made  a  barrack-room  for 
the  soldiers,  and  was  armed  with  three 
guns.  The  Financial  Office  outpost 
was  commanded  by  Captain  Sanders  ot 
the  13th.  It  was  a  large  two-storied 
house,  and  well  barricadea.  The  Begam 
Kothi  was  nearly  in  the  centre  of  all 
the  defences.  A  double  range  of  out- 
offices  formed  a  square  within  a  square, 
one  side  of  which  was  an  Imambaiah, 
afterwards  convei*ted  into  an  officers' 
hospital. 

On  the  2d  of  July,  the  day  of  ^ 
Henry's  being  wounded,  the  rebels 
attacked  the  Baillie  Guard  Gate.  The 
deaths  now  averaged  from  15  to  20 
daily.  Many  were  killed  by  an  African, 
who  fired  from  Johannes's  house,  outside 
the  entrenchment,  without  ever  miss- 
ing. On  the  8th,  Captain  Mansfield 
and  three  other  ofiScers,  and  Maycock, 
a  civilian,  sallied  out,  spiked  a  ^n, 
and  killed  about  40  of  the  rebels  with- 
out losing  a  man,  though  three  were 
wounded.  On  the  9th  another  sortie 
was  made,  when  a  private  named 
O'Keene  spiked  a  gun.  On  the  10th, 
the  ammunition  of  the  rebels*  cannon 
falling  short,  they  began  to  fire  pieces 
of  wood,  copper  coin,  iron,  and  even 
bullock's  horns.  On  the  14th  the 
enemy  made  a  general  attack.  On  the 
16th  the  rebels  made  a  night  attack  on 
Gubbins's  Battery,  but  were  beaten 
back.  On  the  20th  of  July  they  ex- 
ploded a  mine  near  the  Redan.  They 
attempted  to  storm  the  Baillie  Guard, 

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243 


aid  made  their  assault  from  eyeiy  point, 
paaring  in  volleys  of  musketry,  and 
sflQding  shell  after  shell  into  the  en- 
trenchments. As  they  approached 
they  were  mowed  down  in  scores  by 
giape,  and  their  leaders  were  picked 
of  by  the  English  riflemen.  As  the 
fire  of  the  enemy  became  more  and 
nore  intense,  even  the  wounded  and  sick 
Inglish  rose  from  their  couches,  seized 
nuskets  and  fired  as  long  as  their 
strength  allowed.  The  mine  the  rebels 
fired  near  the  Redan  did  no  harm  to  that 
battery,  but  they,  supposing  a  breach 
to  have  been  made,  rushed  up  the 
glacis  at  the  double,  with  fixed  bayon- 
ets. Hundreds  were  shot  down;  but 
their  leader,  waving  his  sword,  on 
which  he  placed  his  cap,  shouted  to 
them  to  come  on.  Again  they  ad- 
vanced, but  the  grape  made  huge  ^aps 
in  their  ranks,  and  a  musket  ball  killed 
thear  leader.  They  then  retreated, 
leaying  heaps  of  slain  and  wounded. 
At  this  time  a  furious  attack  was  made 
<m  Innes's  outpost,  where  Lieut.  Lough- 
nan,  of  the  13th  N.I.,  with  24  English 
soliUers,  12  civilians,  and  26  Sepoys, 
beat  back  a  whole  host  of  rebels,  who 
at  last  slowly  retreated,  carrying  off 
100  of  their  wounded  comrades.  At 
the  Financial  and  Sago's  Posts  the 
columnof  rebels  with  the  green  standard 
was  after  some  hours*  nard  fighting 
beaten  off,  with  the  loss  of  all  their 
commanders  and  about  60  men.  The 
fight  ended  at  4  p.m. 

Though  beaten  at  all  points,  on  the 
20th  the  enemy  maintamed  a  farious 
cannonade,  and  planted  new  batteries. 
Brigadier  Inglis  assumed  command  on 
the  2l8t.  Owing  to  the  fire  of  the 
enemy,  the  windows  had  to  be  barri- 
caded, and  even  then  men  were  shot  in 
their  beds.  One  great  torment  was 
the  flies,  which  swarmed  in  incredible 
numbers.  The  ^und  was  black  with 
them.  The  besie^d  could  not  sleep, 
they  could  scarcely  eat  on  account  of 
them.  On  the  25th  a  letter  was  re- 
ceived from  the  Quartermaster-General 
of  Havelock's  force,  tilling  the  besieged 
ta  be  of  good  cheer,  for  a  relieving  force 
was  coming  in  large  numbers.  But 
days  passed  and  the  rebels  were  busy 
with  their   mines,   and   but   for  the 


countermining  by  Captain  Fulton  of 

the  Engineers,  the 

fallen. 


the  Engineers,  the  place  must  have 


On  the  10th  of  August  there  was 
another  general  attack,  but  the  enemy 
showed  little  courage,  and  they  were 
easily  beaten  off.  On  the  same  day  a 
mine  was  exploded  at  Sago*s  garrison, 
and  blew  down  some  out-houses ;  two 
English  soldiers  were  blown  into  the 
air,  but  were  not  killed.  Another 
mine  between  the  Brigade  Mess  and  the 
Cawnpore  Battery  blew  down  a  stock- 
ade, and  the  enemy  attempted  to  enter, 
but  were  repulsed.  The  8-in.  howitzer 
which  the  rebels  took  at  Chinhat 
played  on  Innes's  post  with  fatal  effect, 
bringing  down  beam  after  beam,  and 
making  many  breaches.  On  the  11th 
of  August  Major  Anderson,  the  chief 
en^neer,  died.  On  the  14th  Captain 
Fulton  exploded  a  mine  under  a  house 
near  Sago's  garrison,  which  was  blown 
up,  and  in  it  were  buried  from  40  to  60 
of  the  enemy.  On  the  18th  the 
Second  Sikh  Square,  garrisoned  by  15 
Christian  drummers  and  musicians, 
and  15  Sikhs,  was  blown  up  by  the 
rebels,  and  buried  7  Christians  and 
2  Sikhs  under  its  ruins.  A  large 
breach  was  made,  and  the  enemy  tried 
to  enter,  but  their  leader  was  killed 
and  they  retired.  Captain  Fulton 
with  a  number  of  volunteers  then 
sallied,  destroyed  a  number  of  houses, 
and  blew  up  the  shaft  of  another  mine 
begun  by  tne  rebels. 

On  the  20th  the  house  called  Johan- 
nes's was  blown  up  by  Captain  Fulton, 
killing  60  to  80  of  the  rebels.  Captain 
Fulton  then  headed  a  sally,  and  after 
driving  out  the  insurgents  from  several 
buildings,  blew  them  up.  Lieut. 
Macabe  headed  another  party  and 
spiked  two  guns.  Previous  to  this 
Lieut.  Macabe  of  the  32d  had  attacked 
Johannes's  house,  and  bayoneted  a 
number  of  the  enemy,  who  were  found 
asleep,  and  amount  them  the  African, 
who  had  picked  off  dozens  of  the  English 
during  the  first  days  of  the  siege,  and 
had  been  christened  by  the  soldiers 
"Bob  the  Nailer."  At  this  time  a 
sergeant  of  the  Bhusa  guard  named 
Jones,  and  10  others,  mostly  native 
Christians,  deserted^but  were  killed 

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244 


ROUTE  16.      8AHARANP0RE  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


by  the  insnreents.  On  the  29th  of 
August  Angad  the  spy  brought  a  letter 
from  Cftwnpore  saying  that  the  relief 
would  take  place  in  three  weeks.  On  the 
5th  of  September  the  rebels  made 
another  attack,  having  previously  ex- 
ploded three  mines.  'Hiey  advanced  to 
the  Brigade  Mess  boldly,  but  were 
driven  back  with  the  loss  of  100  men. 
They  then  attacked  the  Baillie  Guard 
and  several  other  places,  but  were 
similarly  repulsed.  On  the  14th, 
Captain  Fulton  was  killed  at  Gubbins's 
Battery,  where  a  9-pound  shot  took 
his  head  completely  off.  On  the  23d 
of  September  a  furious  cannonade 
raged  outside  the  city  from  10  A.M. 
to  4  P.M.,  and  confirmed  the  news  re- 
ceived the  day  before  that  Outram 
and  Havelock  were  coming  to  relieve 
the  besieged.  On  the  25th  smoke  and 
the  crack  of  musketry  showed  that 
street-fighting  was  going  on.  The  fire 
advanced  steadily  and  gradually  to- 
wards the  entrenchments,  which  were 
finally  reached  on  the  evening  of  that 
day. 

This  relief  was  not,  however,  effected 
without  most  serious  loss ;  for  700  officers 
and  men  were  killed  and  wounded. 
Among  these  Brigadier -General  Neill 
and  Major  Couper  were  killed,  and 
ten  other  officers  fell,  besides  those  who 
died  of  their  wounds.  At  this  time 
the  houses  were  all  perforated  with 
cannon-shot,  and  the  Cawnpore  Battery 
was  a  mass  of  ruins ;  the  outpost  at 
Innes's  house  roofless  ;  and  out  of  the 
Brigade  Mess  alone  435  cannon-balls 
were  taken.  The  besieged  were  not, 
tiowever,  free.  Those  who  relieved 
chem  had  possession  of  the  Tara  Kothi 
and  the  Farhat  Bakhsh  Palace,  as  also 
the  Chatr  Manzil  Palace,  which  were 
on  the  river's  side,  and  from  which  the 
enemy's  fire  had  been  most  fatal,  par- 
ticularly from  the  Clock  Tower. 
Though  the  garrison  had  extended 
cheir  positions,  the  enemy  were  far 
from  abandoning  the  city,  and  Outram 
and  Havelock  with  their  troops  were 
themselves  blockaded.  On  the  26th 
of  September  »  sortie  was  made,  and 
our  men  spiked  two  mortars  and  blew 
up  a  powder  magazine.  Captain  Lowe 
brought  in  as  trophies  an  18-pounder, 


a  9-pounder,  and  five  smaller  gans. 
After  this  the  garrison  frequently  took 
the  offensive  and  captured  several  posi- 
tions. Attempts  were  then  made  to 
open  communications  with '  Alam  Bagh, 
where  the  relieving  force  had  deposited 
their  ba^age  and  ammunition,  with  4 
guns  ana  300  men  as  an  escort.  The 
attempt  failed,  for  an  intervening 
mosque  was  filled  with  riflemen,  and 
too  strongly  fortified  to  be  taken 
without  very  great  loss.  The  be- 
sieged now  repaired  their  defences, 
and  extended  them  near  Innes's  poet, 
by  taking  and  fortifying  a  mound, 
which  became  one  of  their  strongest 
positions.  Fighting  went  on  inoes* 
santly.  Provisions  had  again  become 
scarce.  The  palaces  which  had  bea 
taken  by  our  troops  continued  to  be  the 
object  of  severe  attacks.  On  the  10th 
of  November  Sir  Colin  Campbell  reached 
*Alam  Bagh,  and  relieved  the  garrison 
besieged  there.  At  this  time  James 
Kavanagh,  an  unoovenanted  officer  who 
had  distinguished  himself  in  several 
sorties,  offered  to  carry  despatches  from 
Sir  James  Outram  at  Lucknow  to  Sir 
Colin  Camj^bell  at  'Alam  Bagh,  and 
owing  to  ms  courage  and  address  mc- 
ceeded  in  conveying  them  through  the 
lines  of  the  enemy.  Sir  Colin,  leaving 
his  baggage  in  the  'Alam  Bagh,  pro- 
ceeded to  the  DUkusha,  in  which  move- 
ment his  advanced  guard  encountered 
a  heavy  fire,  but  drove  the  rebels  past 
the  Martini^re  College.  On  the  12th 
an  attack  of  the  rebels  was  repulsed, 
and  on  the  14th  the  rearguard  joined 
Sir  Colin.  On  the  16th  Sir  Colin's 
whole  force,  except  the  8th,  left  to 
guard  the  Dilkusha,  advanced  against 
the  Sikandara  Bagh.  After  a  desperate 
conflict,  the  4th  Sikhs,  the  93d  High- 
landers, and  the  52d,  broke  into  the 
entrance,  and  next  day  2000  dead 
bodies  of  the  rebels  told  the  result 
While  this  battle  was  raging,  the 
English  suffered  much  from  a  mur- 
derous fire  directed  upon  them  from 
the  Shah  Najaf  mosque.  This  place 
was  next  taken  by  Peel's  Naval  Bngade 
and  the  93d.  The  troops  then  rested 
for  the  night,  though  fired  on  con- 
tinually from  the  a^'acent  buildings. 
On  the  17th  the  Mess-house,  a  I&i^ 

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ROUTE  16.       LUCKNOW 


245 


two-storied,  flat-roofed  house,  flanked 
bj  two  square  turrets,  was  stormed.  To 
kflep  up  a  line  of  communication  with 
tbe  Dilkusha  was  the  next  object, 
ud  was  effected  with  some  loss.  The 
aemy  then  made  a  fierce  attack  on 
tke  Mess-house  and  the  Highlanders 
ii  the  barracks  taken  on  the  16th,  but 
fere  repulsed  with  great  loss.  On  the 
iftemoon  of  the  17th  of  November 
Sir  Colin  met  Outram  and  Havelock, 
ind  the  relief  of  Lucknow  was  finally 
effected.  The  British  loss  was  467 
killed  and  wounded,  of  whom  10 
officers  were  killed  and  33  wounded. 
That  evening  Sir  Colin  ordered  the  sick 
and  wounded,  women  and  children,  to 
be  moved  from  the  Residency  to  the 
Dilkusha.  This  was  carried  out  on 
the  22d.  The  enemy  continued  firing 
into  the  old  positions  long  after  they 
had  been  abandoned.  On  the  24th  of 
November  Greneral  Havelock  died. 

The  Blachchi  Bhawan  and  Great 
Inambarah^  are  N.W.  of  the  Resi 
<fency.  This  fort  was  blown  up  on  the 
night  of  the  30th  of  June  1857,  at  the 
commencement  of  the  siege  of  the  Resi- 
dency. It  has  now  been  repaired  and 
extended,  and  includes  the  Great  Imam- 
barah.  The  Rumi  Darwazah,  or  Con- 
8tantinopl«  Gate,  the  W.  entrance,  is 
said  to  have  been  built  by  Asafu- 
danlah  in  imitation  of  that  gate  at 
Constantinople  from  which  the  Turkish 
Government  derives  its  name  of  '*  Sub- 
lime Porte.'*  This  gate  is  220  yds.  to 
the  W.  of  the  street  leading  to  the 
Imambarah.  Entering  under  an  arch, 
you  will  find  on  the  rt.  a  large  mosque, 
and  ascend  a  number  of  steps  to  the 
hnambarah,  which  faces  N.,  and  is  said 
to  have  cost  a  million  sterling. 

The  central  or  great  Hall  is  163  ft. 
long,  and  63  ft.  broad.  The  ceiling  of 
the  octagonal  room  adjoining  is  hand- 
somely decorated,  but  not  coloured. 
A  perfectly  plain  masonry  slab,  without 
any  inscription,  marks  where  Asafu- 
daulah     was     interred.       From     the 

^  Literally  the  chief  •  (Imam)  enclosure. 
The  word  is  "applied  to  a  building  maintained 
17  8hi'a  communitieB  in  India  for  the  ezpresa 
poipose  of  celebrating  the  Muharram  cere- 
monies**  in  commemoration  of  the  martyrdom 
of  the  Sons  of  All  (see  Tule's  Glostary  of 
Anglo-Indian  W<yrd$,  etc) 


terraced  roof  of  the  Imambarah  is  a 
magnificent  view  over  the  city.  The 
Imambarah  was  built  in  1784  A.D.,  the 
year  of  the  great  famine,  to  afford  relief 
to  the  people. 

A  few  yds.  to  the  left  is  an  extensive 
and  old  Baoli,  which  is  very  picturesque. 
The  mosque  close  by  has  rersian  verses 
over  the  door,  with  the  date  1250  A.H. 
=1834  A.D. 

The  original  Machchi  Bhawan  was 
built  by  the  Shaiks,  called  also  the 
Shahzadahs  or  princes  of  Lucknow, 
about  two  centuries  ago.  All  that  is 
left  of  their  building  is  the  round  earthen 
bastions  on  the  S.  of  the  road.  The 
high  ground  across  the  road  within  the 
fort  surmounted  by  a  small  mosque,  is 
Lakshman  Tila,  where  Lakshman, 
brother  of  Ramchandra,  founded  the 
village  of  Lakshmanpur,  the  first  in- 
habited spot  of  the  city  whence  it 
derives  its  name.  The  mosque  was 
built  by  Aurangzeb. 

J  m.  W.  of  the  Rumi  Darwazah  is 
the  Jumma  Mtisfid,  or  principal 
mosque,  the  most  beautiful  buildmg 
in  Lucknow.  Not  far  off  is  the  Husain- 
ahad  Inw/mharak,  built  by  Muhammad 
'Ali  Shah,  1837  A.D.,  as  a  burial-place 
for  himself.  It  consists  of  two  large 
enclosures,  one  of  which  is  at  right 
angles  to  the  other.  This  Imambarah 
is  small  in  comparison  with  that  in  the 
Machchi  Bhawan,  but  has  some  beauty 
of  execution  and  finish  in  detail.  It 
stands  in  a  large  quadrangle,  which 
has  a  marble  reservoir  of  water  in  the 
centre,  crossed  by  a  fanciful  iron  bridge. 
The  Imambarah  is  filled  with  mirrors 
and  chandeliers.  The  throne  of  the 
king,  covered  with  beaten  silver,  and 
his  wife's  divan,  with  solid  silver  sup- 
ports, are  to  be  seen  here.  There  is 
also,  not  far  off,  a  seven-storied  watch- 
tower,  also  commenced  by  Muhammad 
'Ali  Shah,  but  interrupted  by  his 
death. 

The  Iron  Bridge.— This  bridge  over 
the  Goomti  was  brought  from  England 
by  order  of  the  king,  Ghaziu-din 
Haidar.  At  \\  m.  to  the  £.  of  it,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Goomti,  is  the  Tarra- 
wall  Kathif  or  Observatory  (lit.  Star 
House),  now  occupied  by  the  Bank  of 
Bengal,  built  by  Nasiru-din  Haidar. 

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246 


ROUTE  16.   RAHARANPOBE  TO  MOGUL  SARAT 


India 


The  instruments  disappeared  in  the 
Rebellion.  The  rebel  Maulvi  Ahma- 
du'llah,  of  FVzabad,  made  it  his  head- 
qoarters,  and  the  rebel  council  often 
met  there.  The  space  in  front  of  it, 
between  if  and  the  Kaiser  Bagh,  is 
where  the  prisoners,  men  and  women, 
sent  in  by  the  Dhauahra  Rajah  on  the 
24th  September  1857,  were  massacred 
on  the  16th  November  1857.  Here, 
opposite  the  door  to  the  Kaiser  Bagh, 
is  the  Orr  Monument,  which  marks  the 
spot  where  the  poor  victims  felL 

The  Farhat  Bakhsh  Palace  is  next 
to  the  Presidency  to  the  E.  It  was  the 
royal  palace  from  the  time  of  S'aadat 
'All  Khan  II.  till  Wajid  *Ali  buUt  the 
Kaiser  Bagh.  The  part  which  over- 
looks the  river  was  ouilt  by  General 
Martin,  and  sold  by  him  to  the  Nawab. 
The  rest  was  built  by  S'aadat  *Ali  Khan. 
It  is  the  building  referred  to  in  The 
Private  Life  of  an  Eastern  King. 
The  throne-room,  known  as  the  Kasr- 
i-Sultan  or  Lai  Barahdari,  was  set 
apart  for  royal  darbars.  At  the  acces- 
sion of  a  new  king  it  was  the  custom 
for  the  Resident  to  seat  him  on  the 
throne,  and  then  present  him  with  a 
Nazar  or  "offering."  In  this  room 
the  Badshah  Begam,  after  she  had 
forced  open  the  gate  with  an  elephant, 
endeavoured  to  compel  the  Resident, 
Colonel  Lowe,  to  place  Munna  Jan, 
the  illegitimate  son  of  Nasiru-din 
Haidar,  on  the  throne. 

The  Chatr  Maiudl  (Umbrella  House) 
is  E.  of  Residency.  It  was  built  by 
Nasiru-din.  The  best  rooms  are 
now  used  by  the  United  Service  Club^ 
and  for  ritmiona  and  theatricals. 
During  the  Mutiny  this  building  was 
surrounded  by  a  high  brick  wall,  of 
which  the  reoels  availed  themselves, 
and  during  the  advance  of  Havelock 
it  was  heavily  cannonaded. 

The  N.  £.  gat6  «f  ^e  Kaiser 
Bagh,  a  stucco  palace  buili  in  1850, 
faces  the  open  space  in  front  of 
the  Observatory.  At  the  entrance 
is  the  tomb  of  S'aadat  'Ali  Khan 
II.  The  road  through  the  largs 
court  leads  across  the  Chini  Bagh 
to  the  Hazrat  Bagh.  There  on  the 
right  hand  is  the  Chandiwali  Barah- 
dari, which  used  to  be  paved  with 


silver,  and  the  Khas  Makam  and  Bad- 
shah Manzil,  formerly  the  special  resi- 
dence of  the  king.  On  the  left  Ib  the 
Chaulakhi,  built  by  *Azimu  llah  Hian, 
the  royal  barber,  and  sold  to  the  kingfor 
4  lakhs.  Here  resided  the  Queen  and 
her  chief  ladies.  During  the  Rebellion 
she  held  her  court  here,  and  in  a  stable 
close  by  our  prisoners  were  kept  for 
weeks.  The  E.  Lakhi  Gate,  so  calki 
from  having  cost  a  lakh,  opens  into  ^e 
large  sq^uare  of  the  Kaiser  Bagh  proper, 
the  buildings  round  which  were  oc- 
cupied by  ladies  of  the  harem.  Hire 
the  Great  Fair  was  held  in  August,  ind 
all  the  people  of  the  city  were  {Emitted. 
After  passing  through  the  W.  I^ 
Gate,  the  visitor  will  come  to  tiu 
Kaiser  Pasand,  or  "  Csesar's  Pleasure," 
surmounted  by  a  gilt  semicircle  and 
hemisphere.  As  the  visitor  passes  out 
of  the  Kaiser  Bagh  he  faces  the  SMr  Dar- 
wazah,  under  which  General  NeiU  was 
killed,  by  a  discharge  of  grape  from 
a  gun  placed  at  the  gate  of  the  Kidser 
Bagh.  In  the  Hazratgaig  Koad,  which 
passes  the  N.  face  of  the  Kaiser  Bagli, 
IS  the  mausoleum  of  Amjad  'Ali 
Shah. 

The  Moti  Mahal  includes  three 
buildings.  The  one  properly  called 
Moti  Mahal  is  at  the  N.  of  the  en- 
closure, and  was  built  by  S'aadat  'Ali 
Khan.  It  is  said  it  was  named  because 
its  dome,  now  destroyed,  resembled  a 
pearl.  Tha  celebrated  wild-beast  fi^ts 
took  place  in  the  Shah  Mauxil.  Bat 
the  fights  between  elephants  and  rhino- 
ceroses were  exhibited  in  front  of  the 
Hazuri  Bagh,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Goomti,  and  the  king  and  his  court 
watched  them  from  the  verandah  of 
the  Shah  Manzil,  where  they  were 
safe. 

The  Shah  Najaf  was  built  by  Ghaau- 
din  Haidar,  the  first  King  of  Oudh, 
in  1814,  and  is  now  his  mausoleum.  It 
is  situated  about  one-fifth  of  a  mile  to  the 
E.  of  the  Moti  Mahal,  and  180  yds.  to 
the  S.  of  the  right  bank  of  the  GoomtL 
It  is  a  white  mosque  of  scanty  elevation 
compared  with  ite  immense  low  dome. 
Inside  it  is  filled  with  Taaiyahi  or 
paper  pageants,  and  small  pictures  of 
the  different  nawabs  and  kingB,  and 
their  favourite  ladies. 


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ROUTE  16.      LUCKNOW 


247 


Here  the  adyance  under  Sir  Colin 
Oimpbell  received  a  severe  check. 

The  Khimhid  Ilanzil  is  in  rear  of 
tie  Moti  Mahal,  and  hetween  it  and 
tie  Ohservatory.  It  is  a  strongly-hnilt 
fiain  house,  which  was  fortified  by  the 
ttbels.  It  is  now  a  Girls'  School  aflBli- 
ited  to  the  Martini^e.  It  was  stormed 
\y  detachments  of  the  53d  and  90th, 
md  the  Naval  Brigade,  with  some 
Sikhs.  It  is  interesting  because  here 
Outram  and  Havelock  met  Sir  Colin 
Campbell,  after  severe  loss  in  passing 
the  fire  of  the  rebels. 

Sikandara  Bagh  (Alexander  Garden) 
is  about  one-third  of  a  mile  to  the  E.  by 
S.  of  the  Shah  Najaf,  and  between  them 
lie  the  gardens  of  the  Oudh  Agri-horti- 
cultmJ^  Society,  which  are  very  exten- 
sive. The  Sikandara  Bagh  is  120  yds.  sq ., 
aod  is  surrounded  by  a  high  solid  wall. 
It  was  built  by  Wajid  *Ali,  for  one  of 
lus  ladies,  named  Sikandar  Mahal. 
Daring  the  Mutiny  a  body  of  Sepoys 
retreated  to  this  garden,  under  the 
Mef  that  there  was  an  outlet  to  it, 
through  which  they  might  escape. 
The  wall  of  the  Bagh  was  breached  by 
means  of  field-guns  at  the  angle  nearest 
the  Wingfield  Park.  Lieut.  Coop^, 
93d  Highlanders,  was  the  first  into 
the  S.  Bagh.  He  is  described  as  jump- 
ing head  first  through  the  small  breach 
**iike  the  clown  in  a  pantomime."  A 
seoond  party  made  for  the  gate,  where 
a  Sikh  corporal  put  his  right  hand 
through  the  hole  in  the  gate  to  lift 
the  latch.  His  hand  was  at  once  cut 
off,  but  without  hesitation  he  put  in 
his  left  hand,  lifted  the  bolt,  and  the 
party  rushed  in  and  were  followed  by 
their  regiments,  who  bayoneted  every 
inan  inside  the  enclosure.  In  it  is  a 
tomb  to  Lieut.  Dobbs  and  the  men  who 
were  killed  in  the  action. 

The  MartiwUre  is  1  m.  to  the  S.E. 
of  the  Wingfield  Park.  It  is  an  irregu- 
lar building,  in  a  sort  of  debased  Italian 
style.  The  basement  story  is  raised  to 
a  good  height  above  the  ground,  and 
has  extensive  wings,  but  the  super- 
structure is  bizarre,  and  has  not  in- 
correctly been  styled  "a  whimsical 
pile,*'  though  there  is  something  strik- 
ing in  its  great  central  tower.  There 
MB  four  towers  and  a  central  one,  sup- 


ported by  flying  buttresses.  Thecollege 
contains  from  120  to  180  boys,  wlio  ob- 
tain a  substantial  and  useful  education 
free  of  expense.  This  institution  was 
founded  by  Major-Gteneral  Claude  Mar- 
tin. His  tomb  is  in  the  £.  crypt 
of  the  chapel,  a  plain  sarcophagus, 
guarded  by  a  marble  grenadier,  with 
arms  reversed,  at  each  angle.  This 
tomb  was  restored  in  1865. 

General  Martin  was  the  son  of  a 
cooper,  and  served  as  a  soldier  under 
Lally  in  the  regiment  of  Lorraine.  He 
and  some  of  nis  comrades  formed  a 
company  of  Chasseurs  under  Law,  and 

famsoned  Chandernagore,  till  taken 
y  Clive.  He  then  entered  the  British 
army,  and  rose  to  the  rank  of  captain. 
In  1776  he  entered  the  service  of  the 
Nawabs  of  Oudh,  but  the  British 
Government  allowed  him  to  retain  his 
rank,  and  to  enjoy  promotion.  In  1783 
he  formed  the  acquamtance  of  De  Boigne, 
and  took  part  with  him  in  cultivating 
indigo  and  lendingmoney  to  the  Nawab, 
by  which  he  acquired  a  large  fortune. 
It  is  said  that  Asafu-daulah  offered  him 
1,000,000  sterling  for  the  Martini^re. 
But  the  Nawab  died  before  the  bargain 
was  completed,  and  General  Martin  him- 
self died  before  the  building  was  finished, 
and  he  directed  it  should  be  completed 
out  of  the  funds  left  to  endow  a  school 
there.  The  visitor  should  ascend  to 
the  roof,  where  he  will  see  the  damage 
done  by  the  rebels  to  the  building  and 
statues.  They  broke  open  the  tomb  of 
General  Martin,  and  scattered  his  bones 
about,  but  these  were  collected  and  re- 
placed by  the  British.  In  the  Martini^re 
Park  are  the  tombs  of  several  officers 
killed  in  action  at  this  time. 

Dilktisha,  or  "  heart-expanding,"  was 
a  villa  built  by  S'aadat  Ali  Khan,  in 
the  midst  of  an  extensive  deer-park. 
It  stands  about  J  m.  to  the  S.  of  the 
Martini^re  across  the  railway.  It  was 
captured  on  the  12th  of  November  1857. 
Here,  on  the  24th,  General  Havelock  ex- 
pired, as  is  recorded  in  his  epitaph  at  the 
'  Alam  Bagh.  The  building  is  nowa  ruin. 

The  Cantonment  lies  about  Dilkusha 
Palace,  some  S  miles  from  the  Chatr 
Manrdl. 

Wingfield  "Pcvrlc  is  ^  m.  to  the  S.  of.the 
Sikandara  Bagh.    It  is  very  pretty,  and 


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ROUTE  16.   SAHARANPORB  TO  MOGUL  6ARAI 


India 


is  adorned  with  many  white  marble 
pavilions  and  statues,  and  has  a  large 
pa^rilion  in  the  centre,  surrounded  by 
SO  acres  of  grounds  and  flower-gardens. 
One  statue  represents  a  man  attacked 
by  a  wolf,  and  has  on  it,  "The  first 
Premium  adjudged  to  N.  Road,  by  the 
Society  of  Polite  Arts,  100  guineas,  1761 
A.D."  There  is  said  to  be  a  statue  by 
Canova.  This  park  was  named  after 
Sir  C.  Wingfield,  Chief  Commissioner. 

'Alam  Bagh. — This  place  is  IJ  m. 
S.W.  of  the  Oudh  and  Rohilcund 
railway  station,  and  is  in  a  walled  en- 
closure of  500  sq.  yds.,  and  commands 
the  road  to  Cawnpore,  for  which  reason 
it  was  chosen  for  Sir  J.  Outram's  posi- 
tion, when,  on  Sir  Colin  Campbell  s  re- 
treat with  the  women  and  the  wounded, 
he  was  left  behind  to  keep  the  rebels  in 
check.  It  was  built  by  Wajid  'Ali  as 
an  occasional  residence  for  a  favourite 
wife.  Here  is  General  Havelock's  tomb, 
surmounted  by  an  obelisk  30  ft.  high, 
with  an  inscription  recording  his  death 
on  the  24th  of  November  1857. 

Cfhrist  Church  is  situated  near  the 
Post  Office.  It  is  a  neat  building  with 
a  tower.  The  church  compound  is 
prettily  laid  out  with  many  flowers 
and  creepers.  There  are  a  number  of 
interesting  tablets  on  the  walls.  Those 
in  memory  of  Sir  James  Outram  and 
Sir  H.  liwrence  deserve  particular 
attention. 

Badshdhi  Bagh  is  on  the  left  bank  of 
the  Goomti,  and  1100  yds.  from  tlie 
Residency.  The  mutineers  had  a 
battery  here,  and  from  it  came  the 
shell  which  killed  Sir  Henry  Lawrence. 
The  remains  of  aqueducts  and  water- 
works show  that  it  must  have  been  a 
ceol  and  delightful  place  before  the 
Mutiny. 

About  3  m.  from  Lucknow  are  the 
Elephant  Stables  of  the  Government 
Commissariat  Dej^rtment,  containing 
at  least  30  fine  animals. 

The  bazaar  is  worth  a  visit  Remark 
the  silversmiths,  jewellers,  pipe  makers, 
gold  and  silver  wire  drawers,  lace 
weavers,  clay  figure  makers,  etc.  etc. 
The  Nakhas,  or  Bird  Bazaar,  is  specially 
interesting. 

409  m.  Fysabad  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

[Branch  to  Ajodhya  Ohat,    6    m. 


Thence  to  Mankapur  for  Baraitch  and 
Naipalganj.] 

Fyzabad  is  a  municipality,  the  captal 
of  a  district,  and  the  headquarters  of 
the  Commissioner.  The  city  has  falkn 
into  decay  since  the  death,  in  1816,  of 
Bahu  Begam,  who  resided  here  for 
many  years.  The  pop.  of  Fyzabad  and 
Ajodhya  (see  below)  is  79,000.  There 
are  36  Hindu  temples,  of  which  25 
are  to  Shiva,  10  to  Vishnu,  and  one 
belonging  to  the  Nanak  Shahis.  There 
are  114  mosques  and  one  Imambarab. 
The  Ramnaumi  Fair  is  attended  by 
500, 000  pilgrims.  Fyzabad  is  bounded 
to  the  N.  by  the  Gogra  river,  whidi 
here  divides  into  two  streams,  both 
crossed  by  pontoon  bridges.  The 
Cantonment  lies  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
Indian  city,  at  the  S.W.  comer  of 
which  the  railway  from  Benares  to 
Lucknow  passes. 

The  Mausoleum  of  the  Bahu  Begam 
is  about  li  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  D.B. 
She  was  wife  of  Shuia'u  -  daukh, 
Nawab  of  Oudh,  and  motner  of  Asafa- 
daulah.  It  is  by  far  the  finest 
mausoleum  in  the  province  of  Ondh 
and  its  neighbourhood.  The  cenotaph 
is  of  marble  without  inscription,  ike 
total  height  may  be  taken  at  140  ft 
There  is  a  very  fine  view  from  the  top. 
The  Mausoleum  of  Shi:^a'u  •  danlah 
is  close  by,  and  is  something  like  the 
Begam's,  but  not  nearly  so  grand  or 
imposing.  At  each  of  the  four  comera 
of  the  building  are  an  oblong  reservoir, 
and  a  square  one.  In  the  centre  space 
on  the  ground  floor  are  three  tomb- 
stones without  any  writing.  The 
centre  slab  is  that  of  Shuja'u-daulah. 
His  mother's  is  to  the  W.,  and  that  of 
his  son,  Mansur  *Ali,  to  the  E  In  the 
W.  side  of  the  enclosure  is  a  mosque 
at  the  N.  end,  with  an  Imamharah  on 
the  S.  The  place  for  a  tablet  is  seen 
in  the  E.  face  of  the  mosque  wall, 
but  so  carelessly  were  things  done  in 
Oudh  that  it  has  not  been  filled  in, 
and  nowhere  is  there  any  inscription, 
though  the  building  cost  a  vast  sum. 

The  Divisional  JaU  is  only  J  m.  to 
the  N.W.  of  the  mausoleums;  the 
Churchy  St.  Andrew's,  about  1  m.  to 
the  N.W.  of  the  D.B.  The  cemetery 
is  a  little  way  to  the  N.  of  it    The 


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249 


Cipil  Station  cantonments  and  environs 
an  beautifully  wooded  with  innumer- 
aUe  tamarind,  mango,  and  other  trees. 
He  Museum  is  interesting. 
It  is  a  short  drive  by  Fort  Calcutta, 
iilience  will  be  seen  the  bridges  over  the 
Gogra,  to  the  Gupta  Park,  which  is 
prettily  laid  out.    At  the  S.  end  of  the 

J  irk  is  a  temple,  where  they  say  Ram 
sappeared.  The  first  Nawab  of  Oudh, 
S'aadat  'All  Ehan,  seldom  resided  at 
Tyzabad,  though  it  was  his  nominal 
capital,  nor  did  his  successor  Safdar 
Jang;  but  in  1776  Shuja'u-daulah, 
who  sncceeded,  took  up  his  permanent 
residence  there.  When  defeated  at 
Buxar  he  fled  to  Fyzabad  and  con- 
structed the  lofty  entrenchment  whose 
ramparts  of  rammed  clay  frown  over 
the  Go^ra,  and  have  been  rendered 
famous  by  the  oratory  of  Burke  and 
Sheridan.  At  his  death,  in  1775,  his 
widow,  the  Bahu  Begam,  remained  at 
Fyzabad,  while  Asafu-daulah,  the  then 
Nawab,  removed  to  Lucknow. 

[6  m.  Ajodhya  sta.,  Sanscrit 
Jpudhya,  on  the  banks  of  the  Oogra, 
is  where  the  great  Ram  Chandra  once 
feigned.  In  tne  Gazetteer  of  Oudh,  voL 
i-  p.  2,  it  is  said  that  this  town  is  to  the 
Hmdn  what  Mecca  is  to  the  Moham- 
medans and  Jerusalem  to  the  Jews. 
The  ancient  city  is  said  to  have  covered 
an  area  of  48  kos,  or  96  m. ,  and  to  have 
been  the  capital  of  Koshala,  "  the  re- 
splendent," the  country  of  the  Solar 
race  of  kings,  of  whom  Mann  was  the 
first  Fer^sson  says  that  from  this 
city  Ayuthia,  the  capital  of  Slam,  takes 
its  name.  It  is  doubtful  for  what 
reason  the  Solar  race  dispersed,  but  it 
is  certain  that  on  leaving  ^odhya  the 
ancestors  of  the  rulers  of  Oodeypore, 
Jodhpur,  and  other  Rajput  cities 
^vandered  with  their  followers  over 
India,  until  they  at  last  settled  in 
Rajpntana.  For  some  centuries  the 
Buddhists,  under  Asoka  and  his 
successors,  were  supreme.  Vikramajit 
is  said  to  have  restored  Brahmanism, 
and  to  have  traced  the  ancient  city  by 
the  holy  river  Saiju,  which  was  the 
andent  name  of  the  Gogra,  and  to 
lutve  indicated  the  shrines  to  which 
pilgrims  still  flock.  Tradition  says 
that  Ylkram  ruled  for  80  years,  and 


was  succeeded  by  the  Jogi  Samundra 
PaJ,  who  spirited  away  the  Rajah's  soul 
and  entered  his  body.  He  and  his 
successors  ruled  for  643  years.  This 
dynasty  was  succeeded  by  a  Jain 
dynasty,  the  Shrl  Bastam  family,  and 
these  again  by  the  Eanauj  dynasty. 
A  copper  grant  of  Jai  Chand,  the  last 
of  the  Kanauj  Rathors,  dated  1187 
A.D.,  was  found  near  Fyzabad.  This 
date  is  six  years  before  his  death  (see 
As.  Soc.  Jou/m.  vol.  x.  part  i  p.  861). 
Koshala  was  the  cradle  of  Buddhism, 
for  Shakya  Muni,  its  founder,  was 
bom  at  Eapila,  in  the  Gorakhpur 
district,  and  preached  at  Ajodhya. 
Here,  too,  was  bom  Rikhab  Deo,  of 
Ikshwaku's  royal  race,  who  founded 
the  Jain  faith.  The  Chinese  traveller, 
Hiouen  Thsang  found  at  Ajodhya  20 
Buddhist  monasteries  with  3000  monks. 
According  to  him,  the  celebrated  Tooth- 
brash  Tree  of  Buddha  grew  here. 

The  road  from  Fyzabad  cantonment 
to  Ajodhya  (4  m.)  is  excellent,  and 
it  may  be  found  more  convenient  than 
the  railway.  On  entering  Ajodhya, 
turn  to  the  left  up  a  narrow  street  to  a 
place  where  there  are  a  few  shops; 
then  turn  again  to  the  left,  and  ascend 
some  steps,  opposite  Man  Sing's  house, 
to  a  platform,  where  is  the  Janam 
Sthan  Temple.  In  the  sanctum,  the 
door  of  which  has  a  silver  frame,  are 
images  of  Sita  and  Ram.  Ram  has 
a  gleaming  jewel  of  large  size,  which 
looks  like  a  light -coloured  sapphire. 
The  temple  is  an  oblong  of  about 
200  ft.  X 150  ft  The  walls  are  45  ft. 
high,  and  seem  strong  enough  for  a 
fortress ;  which  justifies  its  name  of 
HdnunumOarh,  "Hanuman's  fortress." 
It  is  also  called  Ramkot,  and  is  said  to 
be  of  Aurangzib's  time.  The  neigh- 
bouring trees  swarm  with  middle-sized 
gray  monkeys  of  grave  demeanour. 

To  the  N.  W.  is  the  temple  of  Eanak 
Bhawan,  or  Sone  Ea  Garh,  with  images 
of  Sita  and  Ram  crowned  with  gold, 
whence  the  name  "Fortress  of  Gold." 
This  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  temple 
here. 

The  Janam  Sthan,  or  place  where 
Ram  Chandra  was  bom,  is  i  m.  W.  of 
the  Hanuman  Garh.  Close  to  the 
door,  and  outside  it,  is  a  Mohammedan 

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BOTTTB  1 6.       SAHARANPUR  TO  HOGUL  SARAI 


India 


cemetery,  in  which  are  buried  75 
Mohammedans  who  were  killed  in  a 
fight  with  the  Hindus  for  the  possession 
of  the  temple  in  1855.  Up  to  that 
time  both  Hindus  and  Mohammedans 
used  to  worship  in  the  temple.  Since 
British  rule  a  railing  has  been  put  up, 
within  which  the  Mohammedans  pray. 
Outside,  the  Hindus  make  their  offer- 
ings. The  actual  Janam  Sthan  is  a 
plain  masonry  platform,  just  outside 
the  mosque  or  temple,  but  within  the 
enclosure,  on  the  left-hand  side.  The 
primeval  temple  perished,  but  was  re- 
built by  Vikram,  and  it  was  his  temple 
that  the  Mohammedans  converted  into 
a  mosque.  Europeans  are  expected  to 
take  off  their  shoes  if  they  enter  the 
building,  which  is  quite  plam,  with  the 
exception  of  twelve  black  pillars  taken 
firom  the  old  temple.  On  the  pillar  on 
the  left  of  the  door  on  entering  may  be 
seen  the  remains  of  a  figure  which  ap- 
pears to  be  either  Krishna  or  an  Apsara. 

At  about  J  m.  to  the  N.  of 
Janam  Sthan  is  Swarga  Dwara,  or 
Ram  Ghat,  where  Rama  bathed ;  and 
one-eighth  of  a  mile  to  the  S.  W.  <rf  it  is 
LaTcBhrnan's  Ghat,  where  Lakshman, 
the  half-brother  of  Rama,  used  to  bathe. 
1  m.  to  the  S.  of  Hanuman  Garh  is  the 
Mani  Parbat,  and  to  its  S.  again  is  the 
Kuver  Parhat  and  Sugriv  Parhat,  hill- 
ocks of  great  antiquity.  The  Mani 
Parbat  Hill  is  65  ft.  high,  and  is 
covered  with  broken  bricks  and  blocks 
of  masonry.  The  bricks  are  11  in.  sq. 
and  3  in.  thick.  At  46  ft.  above  the 
ground,  on  the  W.  side,  are  the  remains 
of  a  curved  wall  faced  with  KdrUcar 
blocks.  To  the  S.,  at  the  distance  of 
500  ft.,  is  the  Enver  Parbat,  28  ft. 
high.  The  history  of  these  mounds  is 
obscure,  and  the  traditions  concerning 
them  are  conflicting.  Cunningham 
supposes  that  the  great  monastery 
described  by  Hiouen  Thsang  is  the 
Sugriv  Parbat,  which  is  560  ft.  long 
by  300  ft.  broad,  and  that  the  Mani 
Parbat  is  the  Stupa  of  Asoka,  built  on 
the  spot  where  buddha  preached  the 
law  during  his  six  years*  residence  at 
Saketa. 

Near  the  Lakshman  Ghat  is  a  large 
modem  temple,  built  by  the  Rajah  of 
Bhriya.    300  yds.  from  this  is  a  hill 


90  ft.  high,  with  a  small  Jain  temple 
sacred  to  Adinath.  At  the  Swarga 
Dwara  are  the  vast  ruins  of  a  mosque, 
with  an  iron  post  21  in.  long  and  6  in. 
broad  and  two  minarets  40  ft.  high. 
They  are  probably  of  the  time  of 
Aurangzib.] 

484  m.  JAUNPUB  City  sta.  (R. ),  D.B. 
(There  are  2  stations  at  Jaunpur — the 
Civil  Lines,  or  Zafarabad  sta.  is  4  m. 
farther  on.) 

Jaunpur  is  a  place  of  much  interest, 
and  was  the  capital  of  an  independent 
Mohammedan  kingdom  (the  Sharki 
dynasty)  from  1897-1478,  and  retained 
a  partial  independence  until  finallj 
conquered  by  Akbar.  The  first  thine 
to  be  seen  is  the  famous  Bridge^ 
over  the  Goomti,  erected  by  Akh«r. 
It  consists  of  10  spans  besides  those 
standing  on  the  land ;  the  middle 
group  of  4  being  larger  than  the  3  at 
each  end.  It  was  designed  by  'Aizal 
'Ali,  a  Kabuli  architect,  at  the  expense 
of  Munim  Khan,  one  of  Akbar*s  high 
officers.  It  is  constructed  principally 
of  stone,  and  was  commenced  in  1564 
and  completed  in  1568.  Formerly 
there  were  shops  on  either  side,  bnt 
these  were  destroyed  during  the  flood 
of  1774.  It  is  said  to  nave  cost 
£300,000.  Approaching  it  from  the 
Civil  Lines  ana  what  was  formerly 
the  cantonments,  the  traveller  passes 
beneath  the  large  gates  of  the  Saiii, 
on  the  first  of  which  is  recorded 
the  "Flood  Level"  at  this  point  in 
1774  during  the  great  inundation, 
when  most  of  the  minor  houses  were  J 
swept  away.  The  water  rose  to  aj 
height  of  18  ft 

Some  200  yds.  to  the  N.  after  crossing 
the  bridge,  and  not  far  from  the  Pcm 
Office  and  T(ywn  Hall,  is  the  N.  entrance 
of  the  Atala  Mtujid,  erected  on  tha 
site  of  an  old  Hindu  temple  dedicated 
to  the  goddess  Atala  Deri,  which  was 
destroyed  in  Sultan  Ibrahim's  reign 
and  the  materials  used  up  and  converted 
into    a    mosque.      On    the   principal 

1  Some  of  the  piers  and  arehes  are  inscribed, 
and  have  been  ftiUy  dealt  with  in  a  Tolnne 

Sublished  by  Fuhrer  and  Smith  of  the  Arch«oL 
urvey  of  Indiaj^ntitled  the  Sfcatyi^rcMto* 
we  ofJawypw  CTrttbner). 


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251 


lEhrab,  built  of  black  marble,  immedi- 
ately in  the  centre  of  the  main  W.  wall 
of  the  Musjid  proper  in  which  the 
pmyers  are  said,  is  a  verse  from  the 
Koran,  and  above  it  the  creed.  The 
ft^ade  is  75  ft.  high.  Almost  in  the 
centre  of  the  large  courtyard  and  to 
the  N.E.  of  the  mnsallah  or  praying- 
ffonnd  is  a  well  with  a  fine  citron- 
leaved  Indian  fig-tree  {Ficus  venosa). 
A-t  the  S.W.  comer  of  the  large  square 
is  a  chamber  screened  by  a  lattice  of 
stone,  intended  for  the  women.  Lead- 
ing fh>m  it  to  the  roof  is  a  staircase. 
Behind  the  propylon  screening  the 
dome  from  the  courtyard  and  surround- 
ing 3  sides  of  the  drum  of  the  dome, 


condition,  and  were  probably  destroyed 
by  Sikandar  Lodi.  The  N".  and  S. 
entrance  gates  have  been  restored  and 
are  surmounted  by  domes.  In  the 
cloisters  and  walls  many  stones  from 
Hindu  temples  have  been  utilised. 
Its  general  arrangement  resembles  that 
of  the  Atala  and  the  Lai  Darwazah 
Mosques  (see  below),  and  the  fa^des 
are  not  unlike,  although  the  cloisters 
here  have  3  tiers,  whilst  those  at  the 
Atala  have  only  2.  The  mosque  proper 
IB  very  massive,  almost  fort-like  in  con- 
struction. It  measures  59  ft.  x  235 
ft.,  including  the  thickness  of  the 
walls,  but  not  the  bastions  at  the  angles. 
It  is  divided  into  5  compartments  on 


West  half  of  Jumma  Mn^id. 


is  a  chamber  some  11   ft.  high  and 
6  ft.  wide. 

At  the  end  of  a  narrow  lane,  raised 
on  a  platform  some  20  ft.  in  height, 
is  the  splendid  Jumma  Mnsjid,  built 
by  Husain  Sharki,  commenced  1438, 
finished  1478.  Some  attribute  the 
design  to  Ibrahim,  as  his  family  lie  in 
the  cloistered  court  of  a  building 
adjoining  the  N.  side  of  the  Musjid. 
On  entering  the  S.  gate  the  visitor  will 
notice  on  one  of  the  outer  voussoirs 
of  the  exterior  arch  an  inscription 
(upside  down)  in  Sanscrit  of  the 
8th  cent.,  another  in  Tughra  charac- 
ters over  the  top  of  the  central  mihrabt 
And  a  third  in  Arabic  characters  around 
the  outer  margin  of  the  arch.  The  N. , 
S.,  and  £.  sides  are  in  a  dilapidated 


the  ground  floor,  and  above  are  2  zenana 
chambers,  one  on  each  side  of  the  grand 
dome,  with  splendid  stone  carved  ceil- 
ings. On  the  E.  side  is  an  immense 
propylon  80  ft.  high  divided  by  string 
courses  into  5  stories. 

N.  of  the  mosque  is  the  burial 
ground  of  the  Sharki  kings,  the  walls 
of  which  approach  the  N.  wall  of  the 
mosque  within  30  ft.  In  the  quadrangle 
is  the  tomb  of  Ohulam  *Ali  with  a 
fine  Persian  inscription.  In  the  centre, 
beyond  this  tomb,  is  that  of  Sultan 
Ibrahim  Shah.  The  only  inscription 
is  on  a  round  stone  in  the  centre, 
which  has  the  Ealraiah. 

Next  to  the  tomb  of  Ibrahim  is  that 
of  his  son  Sultan  Hashim  Shah,  with 
an  inscription  of  the^date  15j58. 

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ROUTE  16.   8AHARANPUR  TO  MOGUL  SARAI 


India 


The  Fort  of  Feroz,  known  as  the 
Fort  Musjid,  and  the  earliest  building 
in  Jaunpur  of  note,  was  built  about 
1860,  and  was  almost  entirely  con- 
structed from  mined  temples.  The 
entrance  gate,  47  ffc.  high,  is  covered 
with  kashani  Tiak,  a  sort  of  blue  and 
yellow  enamelled  bricks,  of  which  beau- 
tiful portions  remain.  The  inner  gate 
has  many  stones  of  Hindu  temp»les 
bmlt  into  the  walls,  on  some  of  which 
is  canred  a  belL  At  200  ft.  from  this 
gate  is  a  low  mosque,  180  x  22  ft,  divided 
into  8  chambers  by  lateral  walls,  with  a 
reservoir  in  front,  and  a  remarkable 
Lat,  or  minor,  apparently  unaltered 
since  its  erection  and  beautifully  in- 
scribed. The  river-face  of  the  Fort  is 
300  ft  beyond  this  pillar.  It  is  150  ft. 
in  perpendicular  height,  and  commands 
a  noble  view  of  the  country  and  city. 
Before  reaching  it  the  visitor  will  see 
a  round  tower  called  the  magazine, 
with  a  hammam,,  or  bath,  on  the  left 
At  a  market-place  at  the  S.  end  of  the 
bridge  is  a  stone  lion  somewhat  larger 
than  life,  which  was  found  in  the  fort. 
Under  it  is  a  young  elephant,  which 
it  is  supposed  to  have  seized.  From 
this  all  oistances  in  the  city  and  pro- 
vince are  calculated.  The  Church 
(Holy  Trinity)  contains  a  tablet  to 
Manton  Collingwood  Ommaney,  B.C.S., 
Judicial  Commissioner  of  Oudh,  who 
rebuilt  it  in  1852,  and  died  at  Lucknow 
during  the  siege.  With  him  are  buried 
his  two  sons. 

Besides  the  mosques  already  men- 
tioned, there  are  six  others :  1.  Mosque 
of  Malik  Khalis  Mukhlis,  bmlt  on  the 
site  of  the  favourite  temple  of  Vyaya 
Chandra,  which  was  broken  down  by 
Malik  Ehalis  and  Malik  Mukhlis,  by 
order  of  Sultan  Ibrahim.  They  built 
this  mosque  in  the  place  of  it  In  one 
)f  the  pillars  is  a  black  stone,  still 
worshipped  by  the  Hindus.  2.  Chachak- 
pur  Mosque,  called  Jhanjhri  Musjid, 
on  account  of  the  **  screen-like " 
appearance  of  its  ornamentation,  was 
a  temple  built  by  Jai  Chandra,  and 
converted  by  Ibruiim  into  a  mosque. 
8.  To  the  W.  of  the  city  is  the  Lai 
Darwaiah  Mosque,  so  called  in  memory 
of.  the  **high  gate  painted  with  ver- 
milion "     belonging    to    the     palace 


erected  close  by  at  the  same  time  by 
Bibi  Raji,  Queen  of  Sultan  Mnhammitd, 
son  of  Ibndiim.  This  is  the  smallest 
of  the  Jaunpur  mosques.  The  s^le 
of  architecture  is  the  same  as  that 
of  the  Jumma  and  Atala  Musjids, 
but  the  buildine  throughout  is  on  a 
less  massive  and  much  lighter  scale. 
The  date  is  uncertain,  though  prob- 
ably the  cloisters  of  the  court  were 
erected  about  1447.  On  the  N.,  S., 
and  K  sides  of  the  court  are  massive 
gate  entrances.  The  cloisters  are  2 
bays  deep,  and  the  W.  walls  as  well  as 
the  cloisters  are  panelled.  The  columns 
should  be  well  studied  on  account  of 
their  variety :  they  have  once  formed 
part  of  Hindu  fanes.  Some  are  in- 
scribed with  valuable  inscriptions. 
The  pro^ylon,  the  principal  feature 
of  the  building,  stan<nng  in  the  centre 
of  the  W.  facade  is  48  ft  6  in.  high,  and 
is  wider  at  tne  base  than  the  top.  The 
towers  contain  staircases  leading  to  a 
mezzanine  floor,  on  each  side  of  the 
dome.  The  principal  mihrab  is  of  black 
stone.  On  the  top  of  the  architrave 
is  an  Arabic  inscription.  4.  Mcequeof 
Nawab  Muhsin  Khan.  Sukh  Mandil, 
who  was  the  Diwan  of  Khan  Zamin 
Khan,  had  built  a  pagoda  where  this 
mosque  stands,  and  when  Khan  Zaman 
was  killed  the  building  came  to  Muhsin 
Khan,  who  was  one  of  Akbar's  courtiers, 
and  he  destroyed  the  pagoda,  and  built 
a  mosque.  5.  The  Mosque  of  Shah 
Eabir,  built  by  Baba  Beg  Jala^, 
governor  of  Jaunpur  in  Akbar's  reign, 
in  1588,  in  honour  of  the  saint  Shah 
Eabir.  6.  The  Idgah  Mosque,  built 
by  Sultan  Husain,  and  repaired  in 
Akbar's  reign  by  Khan  Ehanan.  It 
then  fell  into  a  ruinous  state,  and  was 
deserted  till  restored  by  Mr.  Welland. 

488  m.  Zafarabad  sta.,  for  the  Civil 
Lines  of  Jaunpur. 

520  m.  Benares  sta.  (see  Rte.  1). 

530  m.  Mogul  Sarai  junc.  sta.  with 
the  East  Indian  Railway  (see  Rte.  1). 


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ROUTB  16a.      BAREILLT  JUNOTION  TO  RAKIKHET 


253 


i#a-* 


^^A, 
yr^ 


^^ 


ROUTE  16a 

aEiLLT   Junction  by  the 

ND   KuHAON    Railway 

7aini  Tal,  Almorah,  and 

SET. 

(seep.  238.) 

iBhojeepnra  jane.    From  here 
iN.  to 

Eathgodam    (R.)  terminus 

le  journey  from  here  to  Naini 

5  hrs. ;  tne  distance  is  14  m. 

1  m.  in  tongas,  the  last  3  m. 

or  on  ponies.     From  the  tIj. 

[>untnr  is  flat  for  2  m.  as  far 

jh   D.B.      The   road   then 

Le  yalley  of  the  Balaya,  amidst 

scenery,  with  waterfalls 

Tdown   deep   rayines,    to   (11 

Here  are  refreshment- 

here   a  more   circuitous 

Rambagh  falls  in,  and  the 

ent  of  the  ghat  (8  m.  to  Naini 

^r^'^'^Wmmences.      On   the   way  up 

"'^^^^-■Sis  Dale,"  a  pleasant  halting- 

I  passed. 

I  Tal,  3^  D.  6. ,  is  a  &yourite  sani- 
■  the  N.W.  Proyinces,  and  the 
r  residence  of  the  Lieut. -Goyer- 
»  a  small  military  station.  It 
Qely  picturesque,  and  the  lake 
>  of  its  most  striking  features ; 
trayellers  with  a  limited  time 
r  disposal  it  does  not  possess  the 
dons  of  Daijeeling  or  Simla. 
i  Lake  is  nearly  1  m.  long,  and 
broad,  with  an  area  of  120 
The  flood-leyel  is  6410  ffc.  aboye 
The  depth  ranges  from  5 
at  the  N.  end  to  16^  in  the 
dest  port ;  and  there  are  Sulphur 
at  the  end  near  the  Conyales- 
eent  Depdt  The  total  area  of  the 
settlement  is  6|  sq.  m. 

The  chief  population  is  to  the  N.W. 
of  the  lake,  where  are,  dose  to  the  lake, 
the  Assembly  Booms  with  Library,  and 
the  Masonic  Hall,  about  1}  m.  from  the 
B.B.  The  Club  about  }  m.  farther, 
the  Post  Office  lying  on  the  way,  and 
some  Ewopean  shops.  The  Cricket, 
Poh,  and  Laum  Tennis  Grounds ;  the 


Eacquet-eourtt  Bathing  Sheds,  Billiard 
Booms,  and  Public  Octrdens  are  all  near 
the  Assembly  RoomB  on  the  N.W. 
There  are  numerous  Bducational  In- 
stitutions, including  a  Kindergarten, 
and  Lady  Dufferin  s  Hospital,  opened 
in  1890.  The  highest  peaks  are  to  the 
N.W.,  as  China,  which  is  8668  ft. 
aboye  sea-leyel,  Deopathar,  7589  ft,  etc 

The  Chwrch  of  St.  John  in  the 
WHdemess,  i  m.  beyond  the  Club,  is 
built  of  stone.  It  lias  a  roof  of  dark- 
coloured  wood,  and  has  two  stained- 
glass  windows.  There  is  a  handsome 
brass  under  the  window,  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  communion-table,  in  memory  of 
Cuthbert  Bensley  Thomhill,  C.S.I. 

On  18th  September  1880  a  frightfril 
catastrophe  occurred  at  Naini  TaL 
On  Thursday  the  16th  of  September 
rain  fell  in  torrents,  and  continued  to 
fetll  during  FrL  and  Sat.,  when  in  the 
24  hrs.  83  in.  had  fetllen.  The  Victoria 
Hotel,  which  stood  about  280  yds.  to 
the  N.  of  the  N.  comer  of  the  lake,  had 
a  lofty  hill  at  its  back.  At  10  o'clock 
on  the  morning  of  Saturday,  the  18th, 
a  slight  landslip  occurred  on  the  spur 
of  the  hill,  behmd  the  hotel,  crushmg 
in  the  outhouses  and  a  portion  of  the 
rear  of  the  premises,  and  buiying 
several  natives  and  one  European  chilo. 
Assistant- Commissioner  Mr.  Leonard 
Taylor,  with  some  police  and  labourers, 
came  at  once  to  render  assistance,  and 
sent  for  the  military,  who  hastened  to 
the  spot  under  the  command  of  Captain 
Balderstone.  The  work  of  extricating 
the  dead  and  wounded  went  on  till 
1.30  P.M.,  when  in  a  moment  the  whole 
precipitous  cliff  overhanging  the  spot 
tell  with  a  tremendous  roar,  burying 
at  once  the  hotel,  the  soldiers,  the 
assembly  rooms,  library,  orderly  room, 
road,  and  warden.  Almost  every  person 
in  the  buudings  and  grounds  was  en- 
tombed. The  place  shook  as  with  an 
earthquake,  and  the  waters  of  the 
lake  were  driten  to  the  S.  part  of  it  in 
an  immense  wave,  while  vast  clouds 
of  dust  rose  from  the  falling  masses 
like  volumes  of  smoke  after  a  terrible 
explosion. 

There  is  a  pretty  ride  on  the  W.  side 
of  the  lake,  where  the  visitor  may 
ascend  to  a  considerable  height.    But 

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BOUTE  17.      LHAKSAR  JUNCTION  TO  HARDWAB,  ETC. 


India 


the  finest  views  will  be  obtained  on 
the  E.  side,  e.g.  from  Sher  ke  Danda, 
whence  the  snowy  mountains  beyond 
Almorah  and  Ranikhet  may  be  seen. 
The  visitor  who  is  fond  of  sport  might 
go  to  Ranikhet  and  Almorah  for  a  short 
tour  by  the  bridle-paths  as  below : — 


Miles  from 

Nos. 

Names  of  Villages. 

Village  to 
Village. 

1 

Prom     Naini     Tal    to 

Kliyrna  D.B.      . 

12 

2 

From  Khyrna  to  Rani- 

khet D.B.  . 

18 

8 

From      Ranikhet      to 

Maykhali  D.B.  . 

8 

4 

MaykhaU   to   Almorah 

16 

6 

From  Almorah  to  Peora 

D.B.    . 

9 

6 

From  Peora  to  Ramgarh 

D.B 

12 

7      From  Ramgarh  to  Naini 

Tal     ...        . 
Total  . 

18 

88  m. 

There  is  a  good  cart-road  from  Naini 
Tal  to  Ranikhet,  about  60  m. 

At  Khyrna  on  the  Casi  River  is  mah- 
sir  fishing,  also  gooral  shooting,  and 
a  few  leopapds  in  the  hills.  From 
Khyrna  to  Almorah  by  the  river  is 
ro^h  going  but  fair  fisning. 

Excursions  may  also  be  made  from 
Naini  Tal  to  Bhim  Tal,  12  m.  Bun- 
galow and  fishing : — Nankulchia  Tal, 
2  or  3  m.  from  Bhim  Tal,  camping- 
ground  and  fishing,  and  to  Malwa  Tal 
10  m.  from  Bhim  Tal  over  the  hills,  a 
very  pretty  lake,  bungalow,  fishing, 
and  good  shooting  procurable.  From 
Malwa  Tal  return  to  Bhim  Tal,  thence 
to  Eathgodam  (7  m.) 

Almonai,a«c  D.B.,  the  chief  town 
of  the  district  of  that  name,  5600  ft. 
above  sea-level,  pop.  7500 ;  a  station 
for  2  battalions  of  Gurkhas,  is  famed 
as  a  residence  for  persons  with  weak 
lungs.  The  views  of  the  snows  are 
fine.  In  the  neighbourhood  are  the 
Julna  and  Binsur  fruit  orchards, 

Almorah  to  PiTwiri  Glacier ^  6  marches ; 
D.B.  on  the  way,  but  no  supplies  or 
attendance.  Make  arrangements  with 
Assistant  Commissioner  at  Naini  Tal  or 
Al  morah.  Best  time  of  year  September 
or  October.     Shooting  plentiful. 


Ranikhet,  D.B.,  an  important  mili- 
tary hill  station.  Pop.  6000.  ElBvation 
between  6000  and  7000  ft.  The  views 
of  the  Himalaya  snows  from  this  station 
are  very  grand.  This  place  is  reached 
by  dandy  or  pony^  from  Kathgodam 
sta.  either  via  Naini  Tal  (Tonga  Dak 
to  Brewery)  or  via  Bhim  TaL 


ROUTE    17 

Lhaksar     Juno.       to    Habdwai, 
Dhera    Dun,    and    the  hiut 

STATIONS     OF     MUSSOORIK,    LAH- 
DOUR,  AND  ChAKRATA. 

Lhaksar,  on  the  Oudh  and  Rohikmid 
railway. 

[Branch  line  to  16  m.  HardwBX 
sta.  (pop.  28,000).  The  height  abov« 
sea-level  is  1024  ft.  It  is  situated  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Ganges,  at  the 
southern  base  of  the  Siwalik  range,  at 
the  mouth  of  a  gorge  through  which 
that  great  river  enters  the  plains. 
The  Ganges  here  divides  into  several 
channels,  intercepted  by  large  islands, 
many  of  which  are  placed  beyond  the 
reach  of  high-flood  water.  One  of  these 
channels  commences  about  2^  m.  above 
Hardwar,  and  flows  by  it,  and  by  Maya- 
pur  and  Kankhal,  rejoining  the  parent 
stream  a  little  below  the  last  town. 
The  Ckinges  Canal  system  commences 
at  Hardwar. 

It  is  from  a  spot  on  this  bank 
between  Mayapur  and  Kankhal  that 
the  head-waters  of  the  great  Gwnges 
Camil  are  taken. 

The  town  is  of  great  antiquity,  and 
has  borne  many  names.  It  was  origin- 
ally known  as  Eapila,  or  Gupila,  m)m 
the  sage  Gupila,  who  passed  a  long 
period  here  in  religious  austerities,  at 
a  spot  still  called  £ipila  Sthana. 

In  the  7th  century  A.D.  the  Chinese 
pil^m  Hiouen  Thsang  visited  a  dty 
which  he  calls  Mo- Yu-Lo,  which  General 
Cunningham  identifies  with  Mayapar, 
a  little  S.  of  the  modern  Hardwar.* 

Hardwar  was  visited  by  Raper  in 
1808,  who  calls  it  a  small  place, "  having 
only  one  street  about  15  ft.  in  breadth, 

1  For  the  ancient  history  of  Hardwar  see 
Arch.  Rep,  vol.  IL  p.  8«J. 


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ROUTB  17.      HABDWAB 


256 


and  a  furlong  and  a  half  in  length. 
Most  of  the  houses  have  the  upper 
part  of  brick  and  the  lov/er  part  of 
stone,  which  is  of  cood  quality." 
The  street  is  now  fufly  |  m.  long. 
The  name  of  Hardwar,  **  Door  of  Hari 
or  Vishnu,"  is  comparatively  modem, 
and  probably  does  not  date  farther 
back  than  1400  a.d.  The  followers  of 
Shiva  assert  that  the  proper  name  is 
Haradwara,  *  *  the  Door  of  Shiva. "  It 
ivas,  however,  the  scene  of  sacred  rites 
long  before  the  worship  of  Shiva 
and  Yishnu  existed  in  their  present 
form.  On  the  left  is  the  Chandi  Pahar, 
on  the  top  of  which  is  a  temple  con- 
nected witn  those  in  Hardwar. 

Hie  great  object  of  attraction  now  is 
the  temple  of  Qungadwara  (see  below), 
and  the  adjoining  bathing  ghat  This 
ghat  has  its  name  from  the  Clmran,  or 
footprint  of  Vishnu  or  Hari,  impressed 
on  a  stone  let  into  the  upper  wall,  which 
is  an  object  of  great  veneration  at 
the  annual  gathering.  Each  pilgrim 
stmggles  to  be  first  to  plunge  into  the 
pool  after  the  propitious  moment  has 
arrived,  and  strmgent  police  regulations 
are  required  to  prevent  the  crowd  from 
trampling  one  another  to  death  and 
drowning  each  other  in  the  sacred 
water.  In  1819,  430  persons  lost  their 
lives  in  this  manner ;  after  which 
accident  Government  built  the  present 
enlarged  ghat  of  60  steps,  100  ft.  wide. 
The  great  assemblage  of  pilgrims  takes 
place  on  the  1st  oi  Baisakh  (March- 
AprU),  when  the  Hindu  solar  year 
begins,  and  the  day  on  which  the 
Gimges  is  said  to  have  first  appeared. 

The  exact  time  for  bathing  is  the 
moment  when  the  sun  enters  Aries. 
But  this  day  no  longer  corresponds 
with  the  vernal  solstice.  The  Hindu 
calendar  makes  no  allowance  for  the 

S recession  of  the  equinoxes.  Their 
few  Year's  Day  has  accordingly 
gradually  receded  from  the  true  period 
imtil  the  difierence  is  now  as  much  as 
twenty-one  days,  the  great  bathing  day 
having  been  for  many  years  past  on  the 
1 1th  of  ApriL  The  advantages  supposed 
to  be  derived  from  bathing  in  the  Ganges 
are  the  cleansing  from  all  sins.  This  be- 
lief was  as  strong  in  634  A.  d.  as  it  is  now. 
Every  twelfth  year  the  planet  Jupiter 


being  in  Aquarius,  a  feast  of  peculiar 
sanctity  occurs,  called  a  Kumbh-mda, 
attended  by  enormous  crowds.  In 
ordinary  years  the  pilgrims  amount  to 
100,000,  and  at  the  Kumbh-mela  to 
300,000.  Riots  and  bloody  fights  used 
to  be  common ;  in  1760,  on  the  last 
day  of  bathing  (10th  April),  the  rival 
mobs  of  the  Gusain  and  Bairagi  sects 
had  a  battle,  in  which  18,000  are  said 
to  have  perished.  In  1795  the  Sikh 
pilgrims  slew  600  Gusains. 

The  Hardwar  mela  ©r  fair  is  also  im- 
portant in  a  mercantile  point  of  view, 
being  one  of  the  principal  horse  fairs 
in  Upper  India,  where  Government  pur- 
chases remounts  for  the  cavalry. 
Commodities  of  all  kinds,  Indian  or 
European,  find  a  ready  sale,  and  the 
trade  in  food-grains  is  lucrative. 

From  Hardwar  the  pilgrims  proceed 
to  visit  the  shrine  of  Kedarnath,  a 
name  of  Shiva ;  and  that  of  Bhadri- 
nath  in  Garhwal. 

Within  the  limits  of  the  old  city 
are  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort  750  ft. 
square,  attributed  to  Raja  Ben,  and 
several  lofty  mounds  covered  with 
broken  bricks,  of  which  the  largest  and 
most  conspicuous  is  just  above  the 
Canal  bridge.  There  are  also  three  old 
temples,  to  Narayana-shila,  to  Maya- 
devi,  and  to  Bhairava.  A  great  variety 
of  old  coins  are  found  here  every  year. 

The  Temple  of  Narayana-shila  is 
made  of  bricks  9|  in.  square  and  2^  in. 
thick,  and  is  plastered  on  the  outside. 
The  Tiem^feq^ifaya-rfmisbuiltentirely 
of  stone,  and  General  Cunningham 
thinks  it  may  be  as  old  as  the  10th  or 
11th  century.  The  principal  statue, 
which  is  called  Maya-devi,  is  a  three- 
headed  and  four-armed  female,  in  the  act 
of  killing  a  prostrate  figure ;  in  one  hand 
is  a  discus,  in  another  what  resembles 
a  human  head,  and  in  a  third  a  trident. 
Greneral  Cunningham  points  out  that 
this  cannot  be  Maya,  the  mother  of 
Buddha,  and  thinks  it  may  be  Durga, 
to  whom  Vishnu  gave  his  discus,  and 
Shiva  his  trident  Close  by  is  a  squat- 
ting figure  with  eight  arms,  which  must 
be  Shiva,  and  outside  the  temple  is  the 
bull  Nandi.  Outside  the  Temple  ofSarv- 
vanath  is  a  statue  of  Buddha  under  the 
Bodhi  tree  accompanied  by  two  standing 

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and  two  flying  figures.    On  the  pedestal 
is  a  wheel  with  a  lion  on-  either  side. 

Oangadtoara  is  celebrated  in  the 
Puranas  as  the  scene  of  Daksha's 
sacrifice,  to  which  he  neglected  to  in- 
vite Shiva,  the  husband  of  his  daughter 
Sati.  Sati  attended  the  sacrifice  in 
spite  of  Shiva's  warning  not  to  do  so, 
and  was  so  shocked  at  her  father's 
disrespect  that  she  went  to  the  bank 
of  the  Ganges  and  by  her  own  splen- 
dour consumed  her  body.  Enraged  at 
Sati's  death,  Shiva  produced  Vira- 
Bhadra,  who  cut  off  Daksha's  head 
and  threw  it  in  the  fire.  Shiva  restored 
Daksha  to  life,  but  as  his  head  had 
been  consumed,  replaced  it  with  that  of 
a  goat  or  ram.  The  spot  where  Daksha 
is  supposed  to  have  prepared  his  sacri- 
fice IS  now  marked  by  the  Temple  of 
Daksheshwaray  a  form  of  Shiva.  It  is 
at  the  S.  end  of  Eankhal,  2}  m.  below 
the  bathing  ghat.  Around  the  temple 
are  several  smaller  ones,  of  no  interest.] 

Returning  to  Lhaksar,  the  line  con- 
tinues N.W.  to 

11  m.  Boork00  sta.,  D.B.  (see  p.  237). 

38  m.  Saharanpore  sta.  (see  p.  194). 
There  is  a  good  carriage  road  from 
here  to  Dehra  Dun  (42  m.) ;  6  m. 
farther  at  Rajpore,  3^  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills,  the  carnage  must  be  abandoned 
for  jhampan,  dandv,  or  pony.  An 
ascent  of  about  4  m.  brings  the  traveller 
to  Mussoorie. 

There  are  D.  Bs.  at  the  following  places 
en  route :  16  m.  Futtehpore ;  28  m. 
Mohun  ;  35  m.  Assaroree  ;  42  m.  Dehra 
Dun;  48  m.  Rajpore.  The  journey 
from  Saharanpore  to  Mussoorie  occupies 
13  hrs. 

Dehra  Don  (or  Doon)  D.B.,  is  the 
capital  of  the  Dehra  Dun  district. 
Dehra  itself  (19,000  inhab.)  is  prettily 
situated  in  the  midst  of  a  mountain 
valley,  2300  ft.  above  sea-level.  It  was 
founded  by  Guru  Ram  Rai,  who  settled 
in  the  Dun  at  the  end  of  the  17th 
century.  His  temple,  in  the  style  of 
the  mausoleum  of  the  Emperor  Jehangir 
at  Shah  Dera,  forms  the  chief  ornament 
of  the  town.  To  the  W.  is  the  canton- 
ment. There  are  an  English  church,  a 
mission  of  the  American  Presbyterian 
Ohurch,  and  various  chapels. 

In  the  earliest  ages  of  Hindu  legend 


Dehra  Dun  formed  part  of  a  region 
known  as  Eedarkhand,  the  abode  of 
Shiva  from  whom  also  the  Si^ralik 
Hills  are  called.  Here  Rama  and  his 
brother  are  said  to  have  done  penance 
for  killing  Ravana,  and  here  the  five 
Pandus  stopped  on  their  way  to  the 
snowy  range  where  they  immolated 
themselves.  Authentic  history  knors 
nothing  of  Dehra  till  the  17th  cen- 
tury. Ram  Rai,  who  was  driven  from 
the  Panjab  and  the  Guruship  on  account 
of  doubts  as  to  his  legitimacy,  fourded 
Dehra.  In  1767  Najibu  Daalih, 
Governor  of  Saharanpore,  occupied  tie 
Dun,  but  he  died  in  1770,  when  the 
country  was  swept  by  various  invaden 
Last  of  all  came  the  Gurkhas,  witb 
whom  the  British  went  to  war  in 
November  1814.  At  the  end  of  1815 
the  Gurkhas  ceded  the  country  to  the 
British,  who  had  easily  occupied 
Dehra,  and  taken  the  strong  niQ 
fortress  of  Ealanga  after  a  gallant 
defence,  in  which  Sir  Rolo  Gillespie, 
a  gallant  soldier  who  suppressed  the 
mutiny  at  Vellore,  was  kuled.  There 
is  a  monument  to  the  slain  a  short 
distance  from  Dehra.  Those  of  the 
garrison  who  survived  entered  the 
service  of  Ranjit,  and  died  to  a  man 
in  battle  with  the  Afghans.  It  is  prob- 
able that  the  inhabitants  have  trebled 
since  the  introduction  of  British  mle. 
The  climate  of  Dehra  is  excellent. 

The  approach  to  Mussoorie  from  Dehra 
is  by  Bajporeif.  (6  ul),  a  large  native 
village,  and  at  an  elevation  of  abont 
3000  ft.  The  road  from  Rajpore  to 
Mussoorie  is  very  steep. 

About  half-way  up  is  Jarapani, 
a  halting-place  where  there  is  water 
and  a  bazaar ;  and  here,  at  an  eleva- 
tion of  5000  ft,  are  the  first  houses  of 
the  European  residents. 

4  m.  HuBBOori0,a^  a  hill  station, 
and  LcmdouVf  the  adjacent  Convalescent 
Dep6t  for  British  troops,  are  situated 
upon  one  of  the  outer  ranges  of  the 
Himalayas,  which  lie  to  the  if.  of  Dehra 
Dun.  The  hill  on  which  Mussoorie  is 
built  rises  from  the  plains  in  the  form  of 
a  horse-shoe,  gradually  ascending  to  the 
centre,  and  enclosing  in  the  hollow  a 
number  of  ridges  which  lose  themselves 
in  the  mass  above.     Ridges  also  ran 

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Ja}m.b<u-tiio1amaw&  Co..  Kcibx 


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ROUTE    18.      DELHI   TO   ALLAHABAD 


257 


down  from  the  back  of  a  hill  to  a 
valley  in  which  flows  a  tributary  of 
the  Jumna;  between  the  ridges  N. 
and  S.  are  deep  wooded  gorges.  The 
greater  number  of  the  houses  are  built 
at  an  elevation  of  from  6000  to  7200 
ft ,  mainly  on  the  S.  side  of  the  hill. 
The  view  from  Mussoorie  over  the 
▼alley  of  the  Dun  and  across  the  Siwalik 
Hills  to  the  plains  is  very  beautiful,  as 
also  is  the  view  towards  the  N.,  which 
is  bounded  by  the  peaks  of  the  snowy 
range.  The  hills,  on  the  side  nearest 
the  plains  exposed  to  the  prevailing 
winds,  are  nearly  bare,  and  the  visitor 
misses  the  pine  and  deodar  forests 
which  form  so  beautiful  a  feature  at 
Simla  and  other  Himalayan  sta- 
tions. 

To  the  N.,  however,  not  far  below 
the  ridge,  trees  are  plentiful.  They 
are  principally  oak,  rhododendron,  and 
fir.  In  sheltered  places  apricots, 
apples,  pears,  and  cnerries  flourish, 
together  with  many  English  annual 
and  perennial  plants.  The  climate  is 
delightful.  Towards  the  end  of  Novem- 
ber snow  falls,  and  from  time  to  time 
during  the  succeeding  three  months. 

Landourif-  is  a  little  to  the  S.E.  of 
Mussoorie,  connected  with  it  by  a 
narrow  spur  from  20  to  30  yds.  in 
breadth,  with  a  sheer  precipice  of  from 
80  to  100  ft.  on  either  side.  It  is  200 
yds.  long,  and  rises  rather  abruptly  to 
the  Landour  hill,  the  highest  point  of 
which  is  about  900  ft.  above  the  average 
of  t'he  Mussoorie  ridge. 

The  houses  and  barracks  at  Landour 
are  built  upon  the  ascending  slope  of 
the  spur,  and  upon  the  precipitous 
slopes  of  the  ridge.  The  barracks  face 
the  S.  The  very  limited  area  of  Lan- 
dour is  no  small  disadvantage. 
Slight  attacks  of  fever  occur  both  at 
Mussoorie  and  Landour,  but  very 
serious  cases  of  jungle  fever  happen  to 
Europeans  who  venture  on  shooting 
expeditions  into  the  valleys.  There 
is  a  permanent  Anglo-Indian  popu- 
lation at  Landour  and  Mussoorie, 
and  a  large  influx  of  visitors  during 
the  hot  season.  English  and  Roman 
Catholic  churches  exist  at  both  places, 
with  numerous  schools  and  boarding- 
houses,   and    at    Mussoorie   a    public 


library,  masonic  lodge,  club,  brewery, 
and  three  banks. 

There  is  a  good  road  to  Simla  via 
Chakrata.  The  accommodation  on  the 
way  is  scant.  Tents,  food,  and  servants 
should  be  taken.  The  places  on  the 
road  are  as  follows : — 

15  m,  Lakwar,  D.  B. 

11  m.  Nainghatf  D.B. 

21  m.  Chakrata,  D.B.,  a  military 
hill -station  7000  ft.  above  the  sea  in 
the  centre  of  the  district  of  Dhera 
Dun  called  Jaunsar  Bawar.  It  is  77 
m.  from  Saharanpore,  with  which  it 
is  connected  by  a  cart-road.  This 
station  was  founded  in  May  1866. 
There  are  lines  for  a  European  regiment, 
and  a  native  town  has  gathered  round 
the  cantonment.  Large  game  shooting 
can  be  had  by  those  who  can  climb. 

15  m.    Kanipanif  Forest  Bungalow. 

21  m.  Maindroitj  water  and  good 
camping-ground  ;  9  m.  MundcUj  D.B.  ; 
12  m.  PeorUreey  water  and  few  supplies. 
10  m.  CJiepal,  water  and  few  supplies. 
Cross  Pationalla  mt.  (9368  ft.),  23  m. 
Synjt  water  and  supplies ;  8  m.  FegUy 
D.B.  ;  12  m.  Simla  (see  Rte.  11). 


ROUTE  18 

Delhi  to  Tundla  Junc.  for  Agra, 
Cawnpore,  and  Allahabad,  by 
THE  East  Indian  Railway. 

From  Delhi  12  m.  Ghaziabad  junc. 
sta.  From  here  the  North  -  Western 
Railway  runs  N".  to  Meerut,  Umballa, 
and  Peshawar  (see  Rte.  11a). 

78  m.  ALIGARH  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B., 
between  the  civil  sta.  and  the  city.     A 

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258 


ROUTE  18.       DELHI  tO  ALLAHABAD 


India 


line  from  here  rans  N.  E.  to  tlie  Oudli 
and  Rohilcund  main  line. 

AUgarhj  "the high  fort,"  is  the  name 
of  the  considerable  fortress  which  ad- 
joins and  protects  the  town  of  Kol  or 
Koil  situated  in  the  well -cultivated 
plain  between  the  Jamna  and  Ganges. 
This  town  (60,400  inhab.)  is  of  un- 
tloubtedly  great  antiquity,  and  Bud- 
dhist remains  have  been  found  in 
excavating  the  eminence  on  which 
the  citadel  of  Koil  stood.  Authentic 
history  commences  with  the  Moham- 
medan historians.  Hasan  Nizami 
writes  that  in  1 194  Kutbu-din  marched 
from  Delhi  to  Koil,  "  which  is  one  of 
the  most  celebrated  fortresses  of  Hind." 
In  1262  A.D.  Ghiyasu-din  Balban  was 
governor  of  Koil.  He  set  up  a  great 
minaret,  which  was  inscribed  with  the 
name  which  he  had  before  he  ascended 
the  throne — "Bahau-din  Shamsi,"  and 
dated  1254  A.D.  In  1862  this  pillar, 
by  an  extraordinary  act  of  vandalism, 
was  pulled  down. 

Ibn  Batuta  mentions  Koil  in  his 
account  of  his  embassy  from  Delhi  to 
China,  1342  a.d.  He  calls  it  a  fine 
town  surrounded  by  mango  groves.  In 
the  15th  century  Koil  became  the  scene 
of  many  a  battle  between  the  armies 
of  Jaunpur  and  Delhi.  An  inscription 
in  the  fort  of  Koil  records  its  construc- 
tion during  the  reign  of  Ibrahim  Lodi. 
1524  A.D.  In  1759  a.d.  the  Afghans, 
under  Ahmad  Shah,  expelled  the  Jats 
from  Koil.  About  1776  a.d.  Najaf 
Khan  repaired  the  fort  of  Ramgarh, 
and  changed  its  name  to  Aligarh. 
About  1785  Maharajah  Sindia  captured 
Aligarh,  in  which  he  found  treasure  in 
specie  and  jewels  amounting  to  a  kror 
of  rs.  In  1788  Aligarh  was  taken  by 
Ghulam  Kadir  Khan,  and  retaken  by 
Sindia,  and  here,  with  the  aid  of  De 
Boigne,  that  prince  organised  those 
battalions  after  the  European  fashion 
which  did  such  good  service  on  many 
a  hard-fought  field.  In  1 7 96  De  Boigne 
was  succeeded  by  Perron. 

In  1803  the  British  declared  war 
against  Sindia,  Perron  took  refuge  with 
the  British,  and  Aligarh  was  stormed 
and  taken  after  a  stout  resistance. 

When  the  news  of  the  mutiny  at 
Meerut  arrived,  on  the  12th  of  Ma)', 


Aligarh  was  gaiTisoned  by  300  Sepoys 
of  the  9th  N.I.,  who  mutinied  on  the 
19th.  On  the  28th  Lieut.  Greathed 
reached  Aligarh,  with  40  volunteer 
horsemen,  and  information  being  re- 
ceived that  Rao  Bhupal  Sing,  a  Chauitn, 
had  proclaimed  a  Kajput  govemmtot 
at  Khair,  14  m.  W.  of  Aligarh,  the 
volunteers  went  there,  and  Mr.  Watwu, 
with  a  few  of  them,  rode  straight 
through  the  town  to  the  Tahsildar's 
office,  captured  Bhupal  Sing  and  16  of 
his  followers,  and  hanged  him  on  the 
spot  Up  to  the  21st  of  June  tie 
volunteers  held  their  ground  it 
Aligarh,  but  the  Lieut. -Governor  i 
Agra  then  recalled  most  of  them. 
The  remaining  few  moved  to  Mandrak 
7  m.  from  Aligarh,  on  the  Agra  Road, 
and  occupied  the  deserted  factory  there. 
On  the  2d  of  July  the  volunteers  were 
surrounded,  but  mounted  and  charged 
and  dispersed  the  mob.  They  were, 
however,  soon  after  obliged  to  retire  to 
Agra.  On  the  5th  of  (Xitober  Colonel 
Greathed's  column  occupied  Koil. 

At  the  3d  milestone  S.  of  Aligarh  on 
the  Agra  Road  is  a  F^c^ls  religiosa  of 
enormous  girth,  and  100  yds.  from  it 
on  the  left  of  the  road  is  a  garden,  in 
which  a  body  of  Ghazis  concealed  them- 
selves during  the  rebellion,  and  rushed 
out  on  a  detachment  of  our  troops, 
inflicting  much  loss  before  they  were 
despatched.  A  few  yds.  beyond  the 
milestone  stands  a  Maltese  cross. 

The  Civil  Station  is  admirably  kept 
and  well  planted  with  fine  trees.  On 
one  side  of  a  large  central  space  are 
private  residences  and  the  Post  Office, 
and  on  the  other,  the  Public  Offices,  Law 
Courts,  Zil'a  School,  the  cemetery,  and 
the  Aligarh  Institiite^  founded  in  1864 
by  the  well-known  Saiyad  Ahmad  Khan, 
K.  C.  S.  I. ,  LL.  D.  The  Library  contains 
more  than  2000  volumes,  and  the 
reading-room  is  furnished  with  the 
leading  English  and  vernacular  papers. 
The  Institute  has  a  printing  press  and 
a  newspaper  of  its  own,  called  the  Ali- 
garh Institute  Ckizette.  The  Lyall 
Library  was  founded  by  the  Hindus  of 
Aligarh,  and  is  built  in  the  modem 
Saracenic  style.  The  old  cemetery  of 
1802  lies  towards  the  Fort. 


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ROUTE  18«       AtitaARfi 


U^ 


The  ol^ect  of  chief  interest  at  Aligarh 
18  the  Anglo-Oriental  College  (about 
Im.  from  the  rly.  sta.),  for  the  educa- 
tion of  Mohammedans  of  the  upper 
class.  It  owes  its  foundation  to  the 
patriotism  and  energy  of  Sir  Saiyad 
Ihmad  Ehan,  already  mentioned,  who 
personally  superintended  its  construc- 
tion and  organisation.  The  building 
is  on  the  plan  of  an  Oxford  or  Cambridge 
college,  and  is  surrounded  by  grounds 
coveringabout  lOOacres.  It  was  opened 
in  1875,  and  has  since  made  rapid  pro- 
gress. It  consists  of  2  departments,  a 
college  and  a  school ;  and  its  inmates, 
some  200  boys  and  80  young  men,  come 
from  all  parts  of  India.  The  subjects 
taught  are  English,  Sanscrit,  Arabic, 
Persian,  history,  and  mathematics. 
The  Principal  and  2  Professors  are  Eng- 
lish university  men,  and  the  Headmaster 
of  the  school  is  also  an  Englishman. 
It  is  governed  by  a  body  of  Moham- 
medan trustees,  and  is  in  no  way  con- 
nected with  the  state  ;  and  unliKe  the 
Government  colleges,  which  are  unsec- 
tarian,  here  the  Mohammedan  religion 
is  taught.  Considerable  prominence 
is  given  to  the  encouragement  of  manly 
sports  ;  and  altogether  the  institution 
marks  a  new  departure  in  the  methods 
of  Indian  education. 

The  Fort  of  Aligarh,  2  m.  N.  of  the 
town  of  Koil,  originally  built  in  1524, 
was  reconstructed  by  French  engineers 
in  the  18th  century.  It  is  surrounded 
by  a  ditch  18  ft.  deep  and  from  80  ft. 
to  100  ft.  wide.  The  Fort  is  an  oblong 
in  plan,  with  an  inside  area  of  about 
20  acres.  At  the  N.W.  angle  there 
are  bomb-proof  magazines.  There  is 
no  garrison.  The  main  entrance  to  the 
Fort  is  on  the  N.  There  were  barracks 
in  the  Fort,  but  they  have  been  pulled 
down.  Perron's  house  is  J  m.  to  the  S. 
of  the  Fort. 

Between  the  College  and  the  Fort  is 
the  House  or  Tower  (^Perron,  a  French 
officer  in  the  service  of  Sindia  1796- 
1803.  It  has  a  square  gateway  in  front, 
with  an  arched  entrance  and  a  guard- 
room above  it.  In  the  garden  is  a 
well  with  a  Persian  inscription. 

The  Jail  is  1  m.  S.  of  Perron's  house. 
Outside  the  S.  angle  is  a  monument  to 
the  memory  of  officeir  who  fell  in  the 


assault  of  Aligarh  and  in  the  Battle  of 
Laswari  in  1808. 

In  the  City  of  Koil  (pop.  62,000),  at 
the  top  of  a  long  and  rather  steep  slope, 
is  the  principal  mos(][ue,  with  three 
central  domes,  two  side  domes,  and 
four  minarets.  It  was  built  by  Sabit 
Khan  in  1728  during  the  reign  of  Mu- 
hammad Shah.  The  architecture  is  in 
the  debased  style  of  the  last  century, 
yet  the  mosque  is  by  no  means  without 
beauty  and  even  dignity.  The  emin- 
ence on  which  it  stands  is  called  the 
Bala  Kilah,  and  in  it  have  been  dis- 
covered remains  of  Buddhist  and  Hindu 
temples,  some  of  which  have  been 
placed  in  the  compound  of  the  Insti- 
tute. The  domes  are  of  brick,  the  rest 
of  the  building  is  of  blocked  kankar 
and  red  sandstone,  and  the  pinnacles 
are  gilt.  The  mosque  is  not  in  good 
repair. 

S.E.  of  the  great  mosque  is  the  MoH 
Mtc^id,  or  "Pearl  Mosque."  In  the 
city  is  a  fine  tank  surrounded  by  small 
Hindu  temples  and  shrouded  by  magni- 
ficent trees  swarming  with  monkeys. 
There  are  nearly  100  Imambarahs  in 
the  town.  The  tomb  of  Gisu  Khan  is 
the  most  beautiful.  It  is  an  open- 
pillared  chattri,  and  is  close  to  the 
Idgah.     About  J  m.  "W.  of  the  chief 


mosque  is  a  curious  group  of  tombs. 
The  central  one  is  called  the  Shrine  of 
Shah  Jamal,  who  is  said  to  have  lived 
before  Koil  was  taken  by  *Alau-din 
Ghori. 

On  the  occasion  of  the  Aligarh 
annual  Fair  (held  early  in  Feb.)  a 
small  temporary  town  is  constructed 
of  bamboo,  and  surroianded  by  hundreds 
of  tents.  Shopkeepers  bring  the  best 
Indian  art  ware  and  fabrics  from  all 
parts  of  the  country  for  sale  and  ex- 
hibition. A  horse  fair  is  held  at  the 
same  time,  and  an  exhibition  of  agri- 
cultural implements  and  produce. 
There  are  also  horse-races,  wrestling- 
matches,  and  other  entertainments,  in 
which  the  English  residents  as  well  as 
the  natives  take  part.  The  occasion 
offers  an  unrivalled  opportunity  for 
witnessing  the  inner  life  of  an  Indian 
district 

97  m.  Hathras  junc.  sta.r   The  East 

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260 


ROUTC  18.   DSLHI  TO  ALLAHABAD 


IM4 


IndiAn  Railwaj  ii  here  crossed  by  the 
Cawnpore- Aohnera  line  of  the  Bombay, 
Baroda,  and  Central  India  Railway. 
From  this  junction  MuUra  and  Bin- 
drahan  (Rte.  10)  may  easily  be  visited. 
The  thriving  town  of  Hathras  is  6 
m.  from  the  sta.  It  possesses  a  large 
tank  and  a  municipal  building  for  the 
benefit  of  officers  on  tour. 

127  m.  Tundla  June  (R. )  A  line  from 
here  runs  W.  into  Agra  (p.  167),  dis- 
tant 15  m. 

184  ra.  Etawah  sta.3«c  (R.),  D.B., 
properly  Itaxoah,  from  Int^  "a  brick" 
(35,000  inhabitants),  has  been  the 
iie^dquarters  of  the  district  of  the  same 
name  since  1856,  before  which  Patiala 
and  Sirhpura  held  the  place  succes- 
sively, it  is  said  to  have  been  founded 
about  five  centuries  ago  by  Sangram 
Sing,  a  Chaidian  chief,  descended  from 
the  famous  Frithi  Raj,  King  of 
Delhi. 

The  CUy  stands  picturesquely 
amongst  a  network  of  ravines  on  the 
N.  bank  of  the  Jumna,  at  a  point 
where  it  bends  sharply  backwards  on  its 
own  course,  and  between  the  river  and 
the  rly.  It  is  divided  into  two  parts, 
a  ravine  from  N.W.  to  S.E.  separating 
the  old  city  on  the  S.  from  tne  new. 
The  roads  from  Mainpuri  unite  outside 
the  new  city  to  the  N.W.  and  form 
the  BazaaVj  which  in  the  centre  is 
cut  at  right  angles  by  the  main  road 
from  Farrukhabad  to  Gwalior  that 
traverses  Etawah  from  N.E.  to  S.W. 
In  the  centre  of  the  city  is  Huttu  Chinj^ 
a  public  square  where  the  com  and 
cotton-markets  are  held ;  and  adjoining 
it  is  a  Sarai  with  a  fine  gateway.  Half 
a  mile  of  broken  country  extends 
between  the  city  and  the  river  to  the 
S.  On  the  W.  is  a  barren  plain  with 
wildly  rugged  ravines,  and  i  m.  to  the 
N.  lies  the  Civil  Station^  with  church, 
public  garden,  racket  court,  etc ;  it  is 
well  planted  with  trees,  and  there  is  a 
belt  of  dark  woods  on  the  N.  and  E. 
sides.  In  a  grove  to  the  "W.  is  the 
AatJiala,  an  important  Hindu  temple  of 
the  last  century. 

The  Jumma  Musjid,  on  high  ground 
the  rt.  of  the  Gwalior  Road  going 


towards  the  Jumna,  is  an  old  Buddhist 
temple,  altered  by  the  Mohammedani 
about  1430  A.D.  According  to  Mr. 
Hume,  it  dates  from  the  5th  century 
A.D.  (see  A$.  Soe,  Joum.  vol.  xxit.) 
The  screen,  47  ft.  high,  before  the  dome 
is  similar  to  that  of  the  Atala  ind 
Jumma  Muejids  of  Jaunpur.  The  fa^tde 
is  180  ft.  long,  but  only  20  ft.  deep. 
The  main  portion  is  of  block  kankar, 
with  fragments  of  blue-stoue  in  ths 
walls,  and  with  portions  of  ten  granite 
columns.  There  are  also  plain  pillin 
of  light  and  red  sandstone  ;  some  ban 
been  cut  in  two,  and  used  for  variov 
purposes. 

1  m.  from  the  mosque  the  ruins  (rf 
the  Fortt  built  by  Samarsi  about  1120 
A.D.,  stand  on  an  eminence  about  100 
ft  above  the  river.  A  comparatively 
modem  and  plain  building^the  Barah* 
dari — crowns  the  hill,  and  commands 
a  fine  view  over  the  Jumna  to  the  S. 
The  S.  face  of  the  fort  is  the  most  per- 
fect, with  a  bastion  83  ft.  high,  and 
another  24J  ft.  The  Dutch  traveller 
Johannes  de  Laet,  in  1631,  says:  "It 
is  surrounded  by  a  double  walL  On 
its  gate  a  human  face  is  sculptured, 
which  the  Indians  regard  with  awe, 
and  worship  it  by  anointing  it  profusely 
with  oil."  The  remains  of  the  gate 
are  still  to  be  seen  on  the  side  of  the 
hill.  The  well  in  it  is  120  ft  deep. 
The  fort  was  destroyed  by  order  of 
Shuia'u  Daulah. 

The  Bathing  Ghats  on  the  Jumna 
just  below  the  fort  and  alons  the  banks 
are  picturesque  and  worth  a  visit 
From  them  will  be  seen  the  conspicuous 
white  spire  of  a  modern  Jain  temple. 

271  m.  CAWNPORB  ^unc  sta,* 
The  junction  of  four  railways— East 
Indian  ;  Cawnpore  Achnera  ;  Cawn- 
pore  Lucknow  ;  Indian  Midland.  Com- 
fortable and  convenient  waiting-rooms, 
iiu\  carriasces  easily  obtained. 

The  City  (pop.  182,000)  is  situated 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Ganges ;  old 
Cawnpore  is  2  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
present  city.  The  name  means  City 
of  Eanh  or  Krishna;  Kanh  meaning 
"husband."  It  is  a  ffreat  eroporiun 
for  harness,  shoes,  ana  other  leather- 
work.    The  sole  interest  attaching  to 

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ROUTE    18.       CAWNPORE 


261 


tie   place    arises    from   the  frightful 
nassacres  of  the  Mutiny. 

The  Mutiny.* 

The  cautonment  at  the  time  of  the 
Mutiny  straggled  for  6  or  7  m.,  and 
though  containing  an  usually  large 
non-combatant  population,  was  impru- 
dently garrisoned  with  about  3000 
Indian  soldiers  and  only  60  Europeans. 
The  Nana  Sahib,  the  adopted  son  of 
Baji  Rao  Peshwa,  whose  claims  to  suc- 
ceed to  the  large  pension  enjoyed  by 
the  ex- Peshwa  had  been  ignored  by  the 
British  Goyemment,  was  living  near 
at  Bithur,  on  friendly  terms  with  the 
English  at  Cawnpore. 

Sir  Hugh  Wheeler,  a  gallant  veteran, 
the  general  commanding  the  division 
in  the  spring  of  1857,  doubting  the 
fidelity  of  the  Sepoys,  resolved  to  store 
with  provisions  one  spot  which  should 
be  a  rallying  point  for  those  under  his 
charge.  The  natural  position  to  select 
was  the  magazine  in  the  N.W.  corner 
of  the  military  lines,  which  rested  on 
the  river,  and  was  surrounded  by 
strong  walls.  But  Wheeler  decided 
against  it,  as  he  would  have  to  with- 
draw the  Sepoy  guard,  and  feared  that 
by  showing  his  mistrust  he  would 
hasten  the  rising.  The  spot  he  chose 
was  the  centre  of  a  plain  where  there 
were  two  barracks.  Here  he  raised 
some  earthworks  about  4  ft.  high,  the 
ground  being  so  hard  that  it  was  almost 
impossible  to  dig  it,  and  so  friable,  that 
when  dog,  it  would  not  cohere.  He 
applied  to  Sir  H.  Lawrence  for  rein- 
forcements, which  were  generously  sent 
under  Lieut.  Ashe,  and  with  Captain 
Fletcher  Hayes,  military  secretary,  a 
man  of  rare  courage  and  capacity. 
Wheeler,  much  against  advice,  asked 
Nana  to  lend  a  body  of  his  own  retainers 
for  the  defence  of  the  Treasury  and  the 
Magazine.  The  same  day  (22d  May)  all 
the  non-combatants  betook  themselves 
to  the  miserable  entrenchment,  which 
the  worst  rider  on  the  worst  horse  could 
have  jumped  over.  On  the  8d  June 
Wheeler  most  unselfishly  despatched 

1  For  a  gmpbio  aeeount  of  the  aiege  of 
Gftwnpore,  the  traveller  cannot  do  better  than 
«tndy  T.  B.  E.  Holmea's  Hitlwy  of  the  Indian 
HvHny,  Allen  and  Co. 


reinforcements  to  Lucknow,  knowing 
that,  in  case  of  attack,  his  own  position 
was  not  defensible. 

On  the  night  of  the  4th  of  June  the 
2d  Cavalry  rose  and  galloped  off  to 
Nawabganj,  where  the  treasure  was. 
The  Ist  Regiment  N.L  followed  them, 
and  burned  and  plundered  as  they 
went.  They  sacked  the  Treasury, 
threw  open  the  Jail,  burned  the  Public 
Offices  and  the  Records,  and  captured 
the  Magazine  with  all  its  ammunition 
and  artillery,  with  which  they  prepared 
to  march  to  Delhi.  The  53d  and  56th 
eventually  joined  them,  all  but  80  men, 
who  remained  faithful  to  the  end  of  their 
lives.  The  whole  body  of  mutineers 
then  started  on  the  march  to  Delhi, 
but  were  persuaded  by  Nana's  emissary 
to  return,  and  on  6th  June  Wheeler 
was  warned  by  the  Nana  to  expect  an 
attack;  and  by  noon  the  siege  of 
Cawnpore  had  begun. 

Never  had  a  besieged  garrison  been 
called  upon  to  do  greater  things  than 
this  little  body  of  about  800  English 
soldiers,  hampered  by  every  disadvan- 
tage and  exposed  to  the  continuous  fire 
of  3000  trained  soldiers,  well  fed, 
lodged,  and  armed.  The  total  number 
in  the  entrenchment  is  estimated  at 
1000,  of  whom  more  than  half  were 
women  and  children.  There  were 
heroes  in  this  little  band  of  whom  any 
nation  would  be  proud.  To  Captain 
Moore  of  the  32d  has  by  common 
consent  been  assigned  the  first  place  in 
these  ranks.  There  was  only  one  well 
within  the  entrenchment,  reached  by 
passing  over  the  most  exposed  portion 
of  the  position.  Before  long  provisions 
were  scarce,  and  the  barracks  contain- 
ing stores  and  surgical  instruments 
caught  fire  on  13th  June.  From  the 
first  day  the  casualties  were  consider- 
able and  at  dead  of  night  the  bodies 
were  carried  to  a  well  outside  the  en- 
closure and  let  down.  Over  250  were 
disposed  of  in  this  way  in  three  weeks. 

On  the  23d  of  June  the  enemy  made 
a  general  attack,  but  were  repulsed  at 
all  points.  On  the  25th  a  slip  of  paper 
was  brought  by  a  woman  into  the 
entrenchments  offering  a  safe  passage  to 
Allahabad  to  all  not  **  connected  with 
the  acts  of  Lord  Dalhousie."    On  the 


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ROUTE  18.      DELHI  TO  ALLAHABAD 


India 


26tb  there  was  an  armistice,  and  it  was 
proposed  that  the  British  should  sur- 
render their  fortified  position,  their 
guns,  and  treasure,  and  should  march 
out  with  their  arms,  and  60  rounds  of 
ammunition  for  each  man.  The  Nana 
would  give  them  safe  conduct  to  the 
river -side,  and  supply  boats  to  take 
them  down  the  Ganges.  This  was 
agreed  to,  and  next  morning,  27th 
June,  the  survivors,  about  450  in  num- 
ber, marched  down  to  the  Sati  Chaura 
Ghat,  and  got  into  the  boats.  It  was 
9  A.M.  before  they  were  embarked,  and 
then  a  bugle  sounded,  the  native  boat- 
men left  the  boats  fixed  in  the  mud, 
and  a  murderous  fire  of  grape-shot  and 
musketry  opened  upon  the  wretched 
passengers,  who  had  thus  been  brought 
to  the  shambles.  The  thatch  of  the 
boats  took  fire,  and  the  sick  and 
wounded  were  burned,  while  the  Sepoys 
jumped  into  the  water  and  butchered 
the  rest.  Orders  then  came  from  the 
Nana  to  kill  no  more  women,  and 
about  125  women,  wounded  and  half- 
drowned,  were  then  carried  back  to 
Cawnpore. 

One  boat  drifted  down  the  river. 
Those  on  board  propelled  it  as  they 
could,  but  their  numoers  were  rapidly 
diminished  by  the  fire  from  the  banks. 
For  36  hours  they  floated  down  stream 
pursued  and  attacked  by  the  enemy  on 
all  sides.  On  the  second  morning  they 
woke  tu  find  themselves  in  a  side  stream 
with  Sepoys  on  the  banks  ready  to  over- 
whelm them.  Two  oflScers  and  11 
soldiers  gallantly  leapt  ashore  and  dis- 
persed the  astounded  crowd.  But  the 
boat  had  drifted  down  stream  out  of 
sight  and  was  lost  to  them.  Four  of 
these  men — Mowbray  Thomson,  Dela- 
fosse,  Privates  Murphy  and  Sullivan 
— ^being  strong  swimmers,  reached  the 
Oudh  shore,  and  alone  lived  to  tell  the 
story  of  Cawnpore.  The  boat  was  sub- 
sequently overtaken  by  the  enemy  and 
brought  back.  The  men  were  then  by 
order  of  the  Nana  all  shot,  and  the 
women  and  children  sent  to  join  the  125 
who  had  been  spared  at  the  Massacre 
Ghat.  They  were  afterwards  removed 
to  a  small   house  called    Bibi-garh, 

''<)re,  between  the  7th  and  Hth.  of 
,  28  died. 


But  retribution  was  at  hand.  On 
the  7th  of  July  Gen.  Havelock 
marched  from  Allahabad  with  14O0 
British  and  600  Sikhs.  On  the  12tli  of 
July  at  7  A.M.  they  halted  at  Belindih, 
4  m.  from  Fatehpur.  Here  they  were 
attacked  by  the  Nana's  army,  hut  it 
suffereda crushingdefeat, and  Fatehpur, 
where  great  atrocities  had  been  com- 
mitted by  the  rebels,  was  sacked  by 
Havelock's  men.  On  the  15th  of  July 
Havelock  again  defeated  the  rebels  and 
drove  them  over  the  bridge  across  the  I 
Pandunadi.  The  Nana  was  living 
riotously  in  a  palace  over  the  prison, 
and  learning  that  Havelock  was  ad- 
vancing upon  him,  issued  an  order  te 
massacre  the  women  and  children  in 
the  Bibi-garh.  The  few  men  among 
the  prisoners  were  brought  out  and 
killed  in  his  presence.  A  party  of 
Sepoys  were  then  ordered  to  snoot  the 
women,  but  they  intentionally  missed 
their  aim.  Then  a  party  of  butchers 
were  sent  in  with  swords  and  long 
knives.  Soon  the  shrieks  ceased,  hut 
groans  continued  all  through  the  night 
In  the  morning  the  dead  and  dying, 
and  a  few  children  almost  unhurt, 
were  pitched  into  an  adjoining  welL 

The  Nana  then  went  out  to  oppose 
Havelock  with  5000  men  and  a  formid- 
able train  of  artillery,  but  the  battle 
(16th  of  July)  ended  in  the  confosed 
flight  of  the  rebels.  On  the  I7th  Have- 
lock marched  on  to  occupy  the  canton- 
ment, but  ere  he  reached  it  he  learned 
the  mournful  story  of  the  massacres. 

Four  months  later  Cawnpore  was 
the  scene,  once  more,  of  bloody  engage- 
ments. Sir  Colin  Campbell  marched 
thence  on  the  9th  of  November  1857 
to  relieve  Lucknow,  leaving  behind  him 
for  the  protection  of  CawniK>re,  his  base 
of  operations,  500  British  and  500 
Madras  troops,  commanded  by  Major- 
Gen.  Windham,  of  Redan  celebrity. 
On  the  27th  of  November  Sir  Colin 
began  his  march  back  to  Cawnpore, 
having  with  him  2000  women,  ehildren, 
sick,  and  wounded,  and  the  treasure 
which  had  been  rescued  from  Lucknow. 
On  nearing  the  Bridge  of  Boats,  on  the 
28th,  Sir  Colin  saw  a  conflagration, 
which  proved  that  the  enemy  had 
taken  the  city  of  Cawnpore, 


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ROUTE  18.       RIGHTS  OP  CAWNPORE 


203 


Tantia  Topi,  at  the  head  of  the 
Gwalior  insurgents,  about  15,000  men, 
lad  inarched  on  Cawnpore,  and  by 
veil -concerted  movements,  completed 
•n  the  19th  of  November,  had  cut  off 
Cawnpore  from  all  communication  with 
the  W.  and  N.W.,  from  which  its  sup- 
plies had  been  obtained.^  On  the  26th 
Windham  moved  out  from  Cawnpore, 
attacked  and  repulsed  Tantia's  right 
wing.  But  on  the  two  following  dSys 
he  was  gradually  driven  back  to  his 
entrenchment  on  the  river  side,  leaving 
the  bridge — ^the  link  with  Lucknow 
—  dangerously  exposed.  Sir  Colin 
arrived  just  in  time  to  save  the  bridge, 
but  the  clothing  and  stores  prepared 
for  the  refugees  from  Lucknow  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  rebels.  Having 
despatched  his  convoy  of  ladies  and 
wounded  to  Allahabad,  Sir  Colin  on 
December  6th  took  the  initiative.  His 
arrangements  for  the  battle  were  most 
skilful  and  completely  successful ;  the 
Gwalior  camp,  with  all  its  stores  and 
laagazines,  was  taken,  and  the  enemy 
routed  with  gi*eat  slaughter. 

Objects  of  Interest. 

On  the  way  from  the  rly.  sta.  to 
the  Memorial  Church  an  enclosure  is 
passed  containing  some  interesting 
monuments  and  heartrending  inscrip- 
tions. 

The  Memorial  Church  is  built  in  the 
Komanesque  style,  it  cost  over  £20,000, 
and  was  consecrated  in  1875.  It  adjoins 
the  site  of  General  Wheeler's  entrench- 
ment, and  contains  a  series  of  inscrip- 
tions to  those  who  fell  near  here  in  the 
Mutiny.  The  best  view  of  Cawnjiore 
is  obtained  from  the  belfry.  To  the 
S."W.  is  seen  among  the  trees  the  Savada 
K#thi,  where  the  fugitives  from  Fateh- 
garh  were  killed  by  the  Nana's  order. 
To  the  W.  is  the  Railway  Station  ;  to 
the  N.  of  it  the  Government  Steam 
Flour  Mills  ;  N.  of  these,  again,  is  the 
city,  marked  bynumerous  white  pagodas 
and  minarets  in  this  direction ;  and 
N.W.  of  the  church  is  Christchurch, 
the  church  of  the  Civil  lines ;  due  N. 
is  the  Memorial  School,  not  far  from  the 
bank  of  the  Ganges  ;  and  in  the  same 

1  For  graphic  accounts  of  this  period  se^ 
^010 1  won  the  Victoria  Oo»s,— Kavanagh. 


direction,  but  nearer,  is  the  Methodist 
Ciiui-ch.  N.E.,  about  250  yds.  from 
the  Memorial  Church,  is  the  old  church, 
a  small  ugly  building,  and  S.  E.  of  it  are 
the  Artillery  Lines ;  the  N.  I.  Lines  are 
due  S.  of  the  church.  Outside  the 
Church  IB  a  railed  memorial  slab  with 
an  inscription  commemorating  "those 
who  were  the  fii*st  to  meet  their  death," 
June  1857.  A  few  yards  from  the  porch 
of  the  Church  is  another  enclosure  with 
a  cross  marking  where 

"  Lie  the  remains  of 

Major  Edward  Vibart, 

2d  Regt.  Light  Cavalry, 

And  about  70  officers  and  soldiers, 

Who,  after  escaping  from  the 

Massacre  at  Cawnpore, 

On  the  27th  of  June  1857, 

Were  captured  by  the  rebels  at  Shivrajpur, 

And  murdered  on  the  1st  of  July." 

Beyond  this,  on  the  S.  of  the  Church, 
is  the  site  of  the  Entrenchment  where 
Wheeler  with  his  small  band  of  soldiers 
and  the  European  and  Eurasian  resi- 
dents for  21  (lays  were  exposed  to  the 
cruel  fire  of  Nana's  troops.  It  is  a  mere 
bare  field,  and  within  the  enclosure  is  the 
well  where  so  many  women  and  children 
were  shot  whilst  getting  water.  A  few 
yards  N.  stood  two  buildings ;  one  of 
them  was  the  hospital  of  Wheeler's 
force,  and  both  were  exposed  to  a  merci- 
less fire  from  all  sides.  Nearer  to  the 
modern  barracks  is  the  enclosure  sur- 
rounding the  well  in  which  250  of  the 
garrison  were  buried.  The  inscription 
on  the  cross  runs : — In  a  well  under 
this  Cross  were  laid  by  the  hands  of  their 
fellows  in  sufferiiigj  the  bodies  of  men, 
uxmien,  and  diildren,  who  died  hard  by 
during  the  heroic  defence  of  Wheeler's 
Entrenchmeiit  when  beleagured  by  the 
rebel  Nana, — June  6th  to  27thf   ad. 

MDCCCLVII. 

The  Massacre  Ghat  is  about  J  m.  N. 
by  E.  of  the  church.  A  grassy  road 
between  banks  10  ft.  or  12  ft.  high 
lined  with  trees,  among  which  the 
murderers  concealed  themselves,  leads 
down  to  the  river.  On  the  bank  is  a 
temple  to  Shiva,  of  hexagonal  shape, 
old  and  going  to  ruin.  Steps  lead 
from  this  temple  to  an  enclosed  flight 
of  steps,  which  in  the  cold  season 
descend  to  the  water,  but  in  the  rains 
are  covered  almost  to  the  top.     1  m, 


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up  the  stream  is  the  fine  biidge  of  the 
Oudh  and  Rohilcund  Railway.  Close 
to  this  was  the  pontoon,  or  Boat 
Bridge,  over  which  the  convoy,  3  m. 
long,  of  women  and  wounded,  brought 
from  Lucknow  by  Sir  Colin,  passed  ; 
and  here  was  Windham's  small  en- 
trenched camp. 

Christchwrchy  close  to  the  Bank  of 
Bengal,  is  the  Civil  Station  church, 
and  has  no  pretentions  to  architectural 
beauty.  It  contains  tablets  to  persons 
killed  in  the  Mutiny. 

The  Memorial  Well  arid  Gardens  are 
about  a  furlong  to  the  E.  of  Christ- 
church.  They  extend  over  30  acres, 
prettily  laid  out,  and  over  the  fatal 
well  a  mound  has  been  raised,  which 
slopes  upwards  until  it  is  crowned  by 
a  handsome  octagonal  Gothic  screen 
designed  by  the  late  Sir  Henry  Yule, 
R.E.,  O.B.  In  the  centre  of  the  en- 
closure, on  the  actual  well,  containiDg 
the  bodies  of  some  200  victims,  is  the 
figure  of  the  Angel  of  the  Besurrection 
in  white  marble,  by  Marochetti,  with 
arms  crossed  on  her  breast,  as  if  resigned 
to  the  Almighty  Will,  each  hand  hold- 
ing a  palm,  the  emblem  of  peace.  Over 
the  arch  is  inscribed,  '*  These  are  thev 
which  came  out  of  great  tribulation. 
Around  the  wall  which  marks  the 
circle  of  the  well  is:  *^ Sacred  to  the 
perpetual  Memory  of  a  greai  company  of 
Christian  people,  chiefly  WoTnen  arid 
Children,  who  near  this  spot  were  cruelly 
murdered  by  the  followers  of  the  rebel 
Nana  Dhumdu  Pomt,  of  BUhur,  and 
cast,  the  dying  vnth  the  dead,  Mo  the 
well  below,  on  the  xvth  day  of  July, 
MDCCCLVIL"  Close  to  the  menu- 
ment  is  a  small  enclosed  cemetery,  filled 
with  bright  flowers  and  shrubs.  Two 
of  the  tombs  are  to  the  memory  of  the 
women  and  children  of  the  1st  Com- 
pany, 6th  Battery,  Bengal  Artillery, 
and  those  of  H.M.'s  32d  Regiment, 
who  were  slaughtered  near  this  spot, 
ISthof  July  1867. 


390  m. 
p.  86). 


Allahabad  junc.  sta.   (see 


ROUTE  19. 

Calcutta    by    the    East    Indian 
Railway  loop  line  to  Azimganj, 

MUESHEDABAD,  AND  BeRHAMPUK, 
AND  TO  MaLDAH,  GaUR,  AMD 
PaNDUAH,  REJOINING  THE  MAIN 
LINE  AT  LuCKEESERAI. 

From  the  Howrah  sta,  Calcutta  it  is 

75  m.  to  Khana  junc.  (see  p.  51). 
Here  the  loop  line  branches  off  N.  to 

145  m.  Nalhati  junc.  sta. 

[Here  it  is  necessary  to  change  agaii 
leaviDg  the  loop  line  and  branching  R 
along  the  Nalhati  State  Rly.  to 

27  m.  Azimganj  sta.,  on  the  rt.  bank 
of  the  Bhagirathi  river,  opposite  Mur- 
shedabad.  This  is  a  clean,  well-kept 
town,  inhabited  by  Jain  merchants, 
who  came  originally  from  Ajmere  200 
years  ago,  andnave  built  several  hand- 
some temples.  The  Bhagirathi  is  here 
700  ft.  broad,  and  rises  in  the  rains  25 
ft.,  when  the  current  runs  7  m.  an  hour. 
To  reach  Murshedabad  it  is  necessary 
to  cross  this  river  by  a  ferry.  On  the 
farther  (E.)  side  there  is  a  metalled 
road  which  passes  through  straggling 
bazaars,  ana  past  some  fine  houses 
belonging  to  the  leading  Kyans,  for  5 
m,  to 

Murshedabad  (pop.  39,000)  on  the 
1.  bank  of  the  Bhagirathi,  chief  city  of 
the  district  of  the  same  name,  is  the 
residence  of  the  Nawab  of  Bengal,  and 
is  called  after  the  CTeat  Nawab  IMurshed 
Euli  Ehan,  though  originally  the  name 
was  Maksudabad.  It  was  a  prosperous 
place  in  the  last  century,  and  owed 
much  of  its  wealth  to  its  being  upon 
the  line  of  trade  from  the  interior  of 
Asia  to  the  European  settlements  on 
the  Hooghly. 

Though  the  population  is  decreasing, 
a  good  many  wealthy  Jain  merchants 
may  yet  be  found  here,  who  deal  in 
carved  ivory — a  speciality  of  the  place, 
— embroideries,  musical  instruments, 
etc. 

The  Baft  Festival  is  still  celebrated 
here,  in  honour  of  Ehwaja  Ehizr  (the 
prophet  Elias).      On    certain    nights 

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265 


diriug  the  rainy  season  thousands  of 
little  rafts,  each  bearing  one  or  two 
sweetmeats  and  each  carrying  a  lighted 
lamp,  are  set  afloat  down  the  stream. 
At  the  same  time  there  is  a  great  dis- 
pliy  of  fireworks  from  a  huge  raft 
MariTig  a  mock  fortress  npon  it. 

Numerous  brick  buildings  stand 
alon^  the  banks  of  the  river,  some  with 
^irdens,  and  all  in  a  dense  jungle  of 
KLinboos  and  other  trees,  which  com- 
pletely hide  the  dwellings  below  when 
»eeu  from  the  roof  of  the  palace, — the 
best  place  for  a  view  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. 

The  chief  object  of  interest  is  the 
Palace  of  the  Nawdb^  which  with  the 
surrounding  buildings  enclosed  by  a 
wall  goes  by  the  name  of  the  Nizamat 
KUa.  It  is  situated  on  the  river-bank, 
about  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  is  in 
the  Italian  style,  somewhat  resembling 
Government  House  at  Calcutta,  and  was 
built  in  1837  at  a  cost  of  £167,000. 
The  architect  was  General  Macleod  of 
the  Beng.  £ng.  It  faces  N.,  and  is  80 
ft  high.  In  the  entrance  room  is  a 
picture  of  the  Nawab  Kazim  and 
General  Macleod.  There  is  a  circular 
Darbar-room,  and  a  Banqueting -room 
290  ft.  long,  with  a  picture  of  the  burial 
of  Sir  John  Moore,  by  Marshall,  at  the 
W,  end.  The  Armoury  is  quite  worthy 
of  a  Tisit,  and  the  jewels  are  remarkably 
fine.  In  the  Library  are  some  very 
rare  MSS.  Altogether  the  palace  is  a 
fine  modern  bunding,  and  there  are 
good  views  from  it  over  the  river  and 
surroundings. 

The  ZenaTia  is  to  rt.  of  the  main 
entrance  at  the  back  of  the  palace. 

In  the  same  enclosure  with  the 
palace  is  the  Imambarah  or  house  of 
prayer,  built  1847. 

Just  outside  the  city  S.E.  is  the 
KvMara  (or  Kutra)  containing  the 
Tomb  of  Mnrshid  Kuli  Khan.  It  was 
constructed  on  the  model  of  the  Great 
Mosque  at  Mecca,  has  2  minarets  70 
ft.  high,  but  is  now  in  ruins. 

Near  this,  and  60  yds.  from  the  road, 
is  the  ChrecU  Ghin,  the  sister  gun  to  that 
at  Dacca.  It  is  17^  ft  Ion?,  with  a 
girth  of  5  ft.  at  the  breech.  The  calibre 
u  6  in.  This  cannon,  which  had  been 
Iflfl  lying  on  the  ground  for  many  years, 


has  been  lifted  up  5  ft.  in  the  air  by  a 
vast  tree  which  has  grown  up  ftom  a 
seedling  beneath  it.  The  inscription 
is  in  rersian,  with  the  date  1687. 
S.W.  of  it  and  2  m.  S.  of  the  city 
is 

The  Motyhilf  or  Pearl  Lake,  a  beauti- 
ful spot ;  but  hardly  a  relic  remains  of 
its  former  splendour,  when  it  was  sur- 
rounded by  palaces.  It  contains  a  good 
many  alligators. 

The  Khush  Baghy  "Garden  of 
Happiness,"  the  old  cemetery  of  the 
Kawabs,  is  opposite  to  the  Mot^hil  on 
the  rt.  bank  of  the  river.  It  consists 
of  3  walled  enclosures.  The  entrance  to 
the  outer  one,  planted  with  flowers 
and  shady  trees,  is  from  the  E.,  close 
to  where  some  rained  ghats  stretch 
down  to  the  deserted  bed  of  the  Bhagi- 
rathi,  which  now  flows  in  another 
channel.  In  the  central  enclosure  are 
the  tombs  of  the  good  Nawab  Ali  Vardi 
Khan  and  his  grandson  Siraiu  Daulah. 
They  are  almost  level  with  the  ground, 
and  are  covered  with  chadars  of  gold 
embroidery.  The  third  enclosure  con- 
tains a  tank  and  Muzafifar  Khana.  The 
Boshan  B<Mh  is  also  a  cemetery  and 
well-shaded  garden. 

The  Nizamat  College  is  exclusively 
for  relatives  of  the  Nawab. 

The  Cemetery  of  J* afar  Ownj,  about 
1  m.  to  the  N.  of  the  palace  of  Mursheda- 
bad,  is  that  of  tne  Nawabs  Nazim 
appointed  by  the  English  ;  it  differs  in 
some  respects  from  all  others  of  the 
kind  in  India.  Opposite  the  gate,  and 
on  the  farther  side  of  the  road,  is  a 
handsome  mosque.  The  person  in 
charge  of  the  cemetery,  which  covers 
several  aicres,  has  a  plan  which  shows 
all  the  tombs.  These  are  very  well 
kept,  and  almost  every  inch  of  ground 
is  occupied.  The  fartnest  tomb  at  the 
E.  end  is  that  of  Gauharu-nisa  Begam, 
who  was  the  daughter  of  Nasiru'l  mulk. 
There  are  seventy-seven  Karis  or  Scrip- 
ture-readers at  this  cemetery,  who  read 
the  Koran  in  three  portions,  so  that 
every  third  day  the  whole  Koran  is 
read  through. 

Murshedabad  district  is  noted  for  its 
sUk  industry.  The  villacers  rear  the 
silkworm  at  home,  and  sell  the  cocoons 
to  the  spinners,  who  export  it.     Sjlk- 

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ludia 


cloth  and  handkerchiefs  are  woven 
here  on  hand-looms. 

The  principal  Indigo  Factories  in  the 
district  are  at  Akraganj,  Patkaburi,  and 
Dumkol. 

There  is  still  Pig-stickiiig  to  be  had 
in  the  district. 

The  Nawab's  Stables  for  elephants 
and  horses  are  on  the  road  to  Berham- 
pur,  5  m.  below  Murshedabad  on  the 
1.  bank  of  the  river. 

At  3  m.  S.  of  Murshedabad,  1.  of  the 
road,  is  a  magnificent  avenne  of  deodar 
trees,  extending  from  2  to  3  m.  This 
avenue  leads  to  Maidapur,  the  old 
civil  station,  now  abandoned. 

Berhampur,  D.B.,  is  a  town  of 
23,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  civil 
headquarters  of  the  district.  After 
the  battle  of  Plassey,  as  the  factory- 
house  at  Kasim  Bazar,  where  Warren 
Hastings  rested,  had  been  destroyed  by 
Siraju  Daulah,  Berhampur  was  chosen 
as  a  healthy  site  for 

The  Barracks,  which  cost  £302,270 
to  build.  The  cantonments  of  Berham- 
pur will  always  be  notorious  as  the 
scene  of  the  first  overt  act  of  mutiny 
in  1867.^  On  the  25th  of  February  the 
19th  £«gt.  N.  I.  refused  to  receive 
their  ammunition,  for  which  they  were 
marched  down  to  Barrackpur  and  dis- 
banded. The  ^reat  square  formed  by 
the  barracks  is  called  Cantonment 
Square  or  Barrack  Square. 

The  New  Cemetery  is  ^  m.  to  the 
N.E.  Here  are  said  to  be  interred 
(see  Stat.  Ace.  of  Beng.  vol.  ix.  p.  77), 
George  Thomas,  the  famous  Irish  ad- 
venturer, who  made  for  himself  a 
principality  in  Rajputana,  which  he 
failed  to  keep ;  Creighton,  the  ex- 
plorer of  Gaur,  and  the  hero  of  Mrs. 
Sherwood's  well-known  tale  Little 
Henry  and  his  Bearer. 

There  is  an  old  English  Cemetery  at 
Kasim  Bazar,  about  8  m.  to  the  N.W. 
of  Barrack  Square.  In  it  are  the  tombs 
of  Warren  Hastings's  first  wife  (d. 
1759)  and  daughter. 

The  Dutch  Cemetery,  which  is  ^  m.  to 
the  W.  of  the  English,  contains  43 
tombs,  of  which  only  four  are  in- 
scribed. 

I  3e^  Kaye's  <Sepoy  FTar, 


Plassey,  called  from  Palas,  the  2h^^ 
frondosa  tree,  is  25  m.  by  road  S.  of 
Kasim  Bazar.  It  is  a  bad  road,  and 
three  relays  of  ponies  are  required  to 
make  the  journey.  CUve's  position  is 
marked  by  a  mound  close  to  the  rirer, 
on  which  he  placed  his  guns,  and  h^  a 
simple  monument  raised  by  the  Bengal 
Government.  It  appears  from  old 
maps  that  at  the  time  of  the  battle  the 
Bhagirathi  flowed  more  to  the  ¥., 
where,  in  fact,  an  old  channel  ein  be 
clearly  traced.] 

The  traveller  must  return  throofjh 
Murshedabad  to  Nalhati  in  order  to 
rejoin  the  rly.  and  continue  along  ^ 
loop  line  to 

195  m.  Tin  Fahar  junc.  sta. 

[A  branch  line  runs  N.E.  (7  m.)  to 

202  m.  Bajmahal  sta.,  a  sub-dis- 
trict of  the  Santal  Parganahs.  The 
town  stands  on  the  W.  or  right  bank 
of  the  Ganges.  This  place  was  once 
the  capital  of  Bengal,  and  has  many 
historical  associations.  The  traveller 
will  here  have  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  remarkable  tribe  of  Santals. 

Bajmahal  up  to  1592  A.D.  was  known 
as  Agmahal,  but  when  Rajah  Man  Sing, 
Akbar's  famous  Rajput  general,  re- 
turned from  the  conquest  of  Orissa  in 
1592  A.D.,  he  made  it  the  seat  of  his 
government,  and  changed  its  name  to 
Rajmahal.  He  also  began  to  build  a 
palace  and  a  Hindu  temple,  but  the 
report  having  spread  that  lie  was  build- 
ing an  idolatrous  temple,  to  avoid  the 
^vrath  of  Akbar  he  turned  it  into  i 
mosque,  and  changed  the  name  of  the 
town  to  Akbarnagar.  In  1607  Islam 
Khan  transferred  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment to  Dacca,  but  it  was  again  brought 
to  Rajmahal  by  Sultan  Shuja  in  1639. 
In  the  beginning  of  the  next  century 
Murshed  Kuli  Khan  transferred  the 
government  to  Murshedabad,  and  Raj- 
mahal fell  into  deca^.  In  1863  the 
Ganges  abandoned  its  channel  and 
Rtgmahal  was  left  3  m.  distant  from  the 
main  stream,  only  to  be  approached  by 
steamers  during  the  rains,  lliis  much 
accelerated  the  decay  of  the  plane. 

On  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  from 


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267 


the  station  are  the  Collector's  Office  and 
other  public  buildings.  Not  far  from 
th(  rly.  sta.  are  remains  of  a  building 
caledthe  Sangi  Datan,  "hall  of  stone. 
It  is  100  ft.  long  from  K  to  S.,  and 
has  three  doors  of  black  basalt  in  the 
centre.  This  is  said  to  have  been  part 
of  the  palace  of  Sultan  Shuja,  son  of 
Jdiangir,  and  Governor  of  Behar. 

The  MaiTui  Tank  is  J  m.  due  W.  of 
tie  Cxdckerry.  At  its  S.  end  is  a 
aassive  brick  building,  with  an  Arabic 
inscription  in  the  Tughra  character; 
and  100  yds.  to  the  S.  is  the  Maina 
ilosque. 

The  Hadaf  is  4  m.  to  the  N.W. 
The  road  leads  through  a  forest  of  tall 
trees,  with  ruined  buildings  at  inter- 
vals. At  1^  m.  It  passes  a  solid  brick 
huilduig  on  the  right  hand,  called  the 
Taksal,  or  Mint,  with  walls  5i  ft. 
thick.  The  Hadaf  ruins  are  about  200 
yds.  off  the  road  to  the  left  through  a 
thick  low  jungle.  The  entrance  is  by 
theE.  gateway,  which  is  much  injured. 
The  tiuveller  then  finds  himself  in  a 
quadrangle.  The  mosque  proper  has 
a  fa(;ade  200  ft.  long,  witn  seven  arches, 
each  22  ft.  high.  In  the  centre  of  the 
Quadrangle  is  a  reservoir,  with  steps 
down  to  the  water.  The  whole  is  now 
mnch  ruined  and  covered  with  jungle. 

The  distance  from  Rajmahal  to 
English  Bazar,  the  headquarters  of 
the  Maldah  district,  is  24  m.  There  is 
a  steam  ferry  across  the  Ganges  at 
Rajmahal. 

English  Bazar^O^  (12,500  inhab.)  is 
situated  on  the  rt.  bank  of  the  Mahan- 
anda  about  4  m.  below  Old  Maldah, 
from  which  the  district  takes  its 
name.  The  place  is  not  frequented 
by  travellers,  and  arrangements  for  the 
journey  should  be  made  by  writing  to 
the  magistrate  at  Maldah  a  week  before- 
hand. The  distance  from  English 
Bazar  to  Gaur  is  about  8  m.  as  the 
crow  flies,  and  to  the  Adina  Mosque  at 
Panduah,  12  m. 

Old  Maldah  is  at  the  confluence  of 
the  Kalindri  with  the  Mahananda.  It 
is  an  admirable  position  for  river- traffic, 
and  probably  rose  to  prosperity  as  the 
fK)rt  of  the  Mohammedan  capital  of 
Pftnd^ah.     Puring  the  last  century  it 


was  the  seat  of  thriving  cotton  and 
silk  manufactures,  and  the  French  and 
Dutch  had  factories  at  it  The  English 
factory,  established  in  1656,  now- 
ever,  was  always  at  English  Bazar, 
lower  down  the  Mahananda,  and  on 
the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  The 
pop.  is  4700.  The  Golden  Mosque  at 
Old  Maldah  is  scarcely  worth  a  visit. 

The  ruins  of  Gaur  and  Panduah,  suc- 
cessive capitals  of  Bengal,  are  interest- 
ing only  to  the  antiquarian.  The  sites 
of  these  old  cities  are  being  rapidly 
turned  under  the  plough,  and  the  dense 
jungles  which  30  years  ago  sheltered 
tigers  and  leopards  no  longer  exist. 

Gaur  was  the  metropolis  of  Bengal 
under  its  Hindu  kings.  Its  most 
ancient  name  was  Lakhnauti,  a  cor- 
ruption of  Lakshmanawati.  But  the 
name  of  Gaur«  also  is  of  primeval  an- 
tiquity, as  is  found  in  the  Guariya 
Brahmaim.  Its  known  history  begins 
with  its  conquest  in  1204  a.d.^  by  the 
Mohammedans,  who  made  it  the  chief 
centre  of  their  power  in  Bengal  for 
more  than  three  centuries.  When  the 
Afghan  kings  of  Bengal  became  inde- 
pendent, they  made  Pandnah  their 
capital,  and  for  building  pmposes  they 
robbed  Gaur  of  all  the  material  that 
could  be  removed.  This  accounts  for 
the  number  of  sculptured  Hindu  stones 
amongst  the  ruins  of  Panduah.  When 
Panduah  was  in  its  turn  deserted,  Gaur 
again  became  the  capital,  and  was  called 
Jannatabad,  "terrestrial  paradise," 
which  name  occurs  in  theAin-i-Akbari. 
Daud  Khan  was  the  last  of  the  Afghan 
kings,  and  his  state  was  absorbed  into 
Akbar's  empire  in  1573  a.d. 

The  dimensions  of  the  city  proper, 
within  the  great  continuous  embank- 
ment, are  7 J  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  1 
to  2  m.  broad.  The  W.  side  was  washed 
by  the  Ganges,  which  flowed  where  the 
channel  of  the  Little  Bhagirathi  now 
is.  The  E.  side  was  protected  by  the 
Mahananda  and  by  swamps.  On  the 
S.  the  Mahananda  joined  the  Ganges, 
and  left  little  space  for  an  enemy  to 
encamp.  On  the  N.  a  fortification  6 
m.  long  extends  in  an  irregular  curve 

1  Blochmann  says  1198  a.d.  ;  Mr.  Thomfm 
1202 ;  Ma^jor  Baverty,  1194, 


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ROUTE  19.       CALCUTTA  TO  GAUR  AND  LUOKEESERAI 


Mia 


from  the  old  channel  of  the  Bhagirathi 
at  Sonatala  to  near  the  Mahananda 
and  Bholahat.  This  rampart  is  100 
ft.  wide  at  base.  At  the  N.E.  part  of 
the  curve  is  a  gate,  protected  by  a 
strong  outwork  in  the  form  of  a  quad- 
rant, through  which  a  high  embanked 
road  passes  N.  and  S.  In  this  outwork 
is  the  tomb  of  a  Mohammedan  saint. 
Near  the  N.E.  comer,  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Ealindri  and  the  Mahananda, 
are  the  ruins  of  a  minar.  N.  of  the 
rampart  are  the  remains  of  the  palace  of 
Balal  Sen,  an  early  Hindu  king. 

Behind  the  rampart  lay  the  N. 
suburb  of  the  city,  in  which  is  the  most 
celebrated  piece  of  artificial  water  in 
Bengal,  the  Sangar  Digi,  1600  yds. 
long  by  800  broad.  It  dates  from  1126 
A.D.  The  water  is  still  pure  and  sweet. 
On  the  bank  is  the  tomb  of  Makhdum 
Shaik  Akhi  Siraju-di«  and  a  small 
mosque.  Both  buildings  are  endowed 
and  Kei>t  in  fair  repair.  W.  of  this 
suburb  is  a  g?uU  called  S'adu*llahpur 
leading  down  to  the  sacred  river ;  and 
S.  of  it  lie  the  ruins  of  the  city,  defended 
by  a  strong  rampart  and  ditch.  To- 
wards the  Mahananda  the  rampart  is 
double,  and  in  most  narts  there  have 
been  two  immense  ditches,  and  in  places 
three. 

To  the  S.,  on  the  Bhadrathi,  was 
the  Citadel f  1  m.  long  from  N.  to 
S.,  and  from  600  to  800  yds.  broad. 
The  brick  wall  has  been  very  strong, 
with  many  flanking  angles,  and  round 
bastions  at  the  comers.  Outside  the 
N.  entrance  have  been  several  fine 
gates  or  triumphal  arches.  In  the 
S.E.  comer  of  the  citadel  was  the 
palace,  surrounded  by  a  brick  wall 
66  ft.  high,  and  8  fL  thick,  with  an 
ornamented  comice, — ^hence  called  the 
**  Boris  Gaji"  wall.  A  little  N.  of 
the  palace  are  remains  of  the  royal 
tombs,  where  Husain  Shah  and  other 
kings  were  buried.  In  the  citadel  are 
two  mosques ;  the  smaller  one,  called 
the  Kadam  Rasul,  built  by  Husain 
Shah,  is  kept  in  good  repair  by  an 
endowment.  Mr.  Feigussonsaysof  its 
style :  *'  It  is  neither  like  that  of  Delhi 
nor  that  of  Jaunpur,  nor  any  other 
•fyle,  bat  one  purely  local,  and  not 
without  coi^siden^bla  merit  in  itself; 


its  principal  characteristic  being 
heavy,  short  pillars  of  stone  lupport- 
ing  pointed  arches,  and  vaults  in  ifrick. 
The  solidity  of  the  supports  goes  fcr  to 
redeem  the  inherent  weakness  of  Irick 
architecture.  It  also  presents,  though 
in  a  very  subdued  form,  the  ciffved 
linear  form  of  the  roof,  which  ii  so 
characteristic  of  the  style.  The 
Kadam  Rasul  was  built  by  Kw-at 
Shah,  in  937  A. H.  =1530  A.D."  Jost 
outside  the  E.  wall  of  the  citadel  v  a 
lofty  brick  tower,  known  as  Pir  'Jisa 
Minar,  which  had  a  chamber  with  tar 
windows  at  the  top,  to  which  acess 
was  gained  by  a  winding  stair,  ft"- 
Hunter  says :  **  One  of  the  most  inta- 
esting  of  the  antiquities  of  the  places 
a  minar.  For  two-thirds  of  the  heigk 
it  is  a  polygon  of  twelve  sides ;  abon 
that  circular  until  it  attains  the  heiglit 
of  84  ft.  The  door  is  at  some  distant* 
from  the  present  level  of  the  ground; 
and  altogether  it  looks  more  like  an 
Irish  round  tower  than  a  minar."  There 
is  or  was  an  inscription  on  this  monu- 
ment, which  ascribed  its  erection  to 
Feroz  Shah. 

The  finest  rain  in  Gaur  is  that  of  the 
Oolden  Mosque  or  Barah  Damxaah. 
It  is  close  to  the  N.E.  comer  of  the 
citadel.  It  measures  180  ft  firom  N. 
to  S.,  60  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  is  20 
ft.  high.  The  entrance  is  by  an  arched 
gateway  of  stone  26  ft.  in  height 
and  6  ft  in  breadth.  The  mosque 
in  plan  is  oblong,  and  originally  con 
sisted  of  four  separate  colonnades, 
arched  and  roofed  over,  and  covered 
by  handsome  domes,  in  all  4^  i" 
number.  Six  minarets  or  columns  of 
brown  stone  faced  with  black  marble 
adom  the  building;  bands  of  blue 
marble  about  12  in.  m  breadth  embrace 
the  column  from  the  base  to  the  capital 
and  are  adomed  with  a  profusion  i 
flower -work  carved  in  marble.  The 
domes  are  built  of  brick.  The  whole 
appearance  of  this  building  is  strikinglj 
grand,  exhibiting  the  taste  and  manif 
cence  of  the  prince  who  erected  it  The 
corridor  is  so  larse  that  one  can  ridi 
through  it  on  an  elephant,  and  so  enter 
the  Dakhil  or  "  Salami  OaU,"  the^ 
entrance  to  the  fort.  This  beautifij 
gate  is  built  of  small  red  bricl^i  >* 

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ROUTE  19.      PANDUAH JAMALPORE 


269 


hasleen  adorned  with  embossed  bricks, 
whifli  can  still  be  seen  on  the  towers 
at  tie  four  comers.  The  arch  of  the 
gattway  is  about  30  ft  high,  aild  forms 
a  corridor  112  ft  long. 

The  Sultan  Mosque  is  also  called  the 
pahted  mosque,  from  the  bricks  being 
enamelled  in  green,  yellow,  blue,  and 
white,  and  arranged  in  bands.  The 
efftct  must  have  been  very  striking. 

The  Jantipara  mosque  is  remarkable 
for  the  specimens  of  embossed  brick- 
lork  with  which  the  front  is  adorned. 

About  1^  m.  N.  of  the  Citadel  is  a 
ipace  of  600  sq.  yds.,  bounded  by  a 
umpart  and  ditch,  known  as  the 
Flower  Garden.  Between  it  and  the 
Citadel  is  the  Piyaswari,  "Abode  of 
rhirst,"  a  tank  of  bad  water,  which  is 
Baid  to  have  been  given  to  condemned 
criminals.  Major  Francklin  describes 
it  as  excellent  water. 

In  the  S.  wall  of  the  city  is  a  fine 
central  gate  called  the  Kotioali  Bar- 
imak,  and  S.  from  it  stretches  an 
immense  suburb  called  Ferozepur.  In 
it  is  the  lesser  Oolden  Mosque^  which 
Buchanan  Hamilton  praises,  and 
Ravenshaw  calls  **  the  gem  of  Gaur." 

Panduah  is  20  m.  N.E.  from  Gaur, 
md  12  m.  N.E.  from  Maldah.  It  was 
^Ued  by  the  Mohammedans  Ferozahad, 
Hie  first  independent  King  of  Bengal 
Tiade  it  his  capital.  A  road  paved 
with  brick,  from  12  ft.  to  15  ft  wide, 
passes  through  Panduah.  Almost  all 
the  monuments  are  on  the  borders  of 
his  road.  Near  the  middle  is  a  bridge 
>f  three  arches,  the  materials  of  which 
^ave  evidently  been  brought  from  the 
Hindu  temples  at  Gaur,  as  figures  of 
Tien  and  animals  are  sculptured  on 
hem.  On  approaching  the  ruins  from 
lie  S.,  the  first  objects  that  attract 
ittention  are  the  17th  cent,  shrines  of 
^akhdum  Shah  Jalal^  and  his  grand- 
on  Kvib  'Alalia  Skah^  which  are  en- 
towed  with  28,000  acres  of  land.  To 
he  N.  stands  the  small  Golden  Mosquef 
vith  granite  walls  and  ten  brick  domes. 
Vn  Arabic  inscription  says  that  it  was 
milt  by  Makhdum  Shaik,  son  of 
^luhammad  Al-Khalidi,  in  990  a.h. 
^'  of  this  mosque  is  another,  called 
^lakhif  as  having  cost  a  lakh.     It  is 


perhaps  one  of  th§  finest  examples  of 
the  Bengali  tomb.  It  is  80  ft.  8a.» 
covered  by  one  dome,  and  contains  the 
remains  of  Ghiasu-din,  his  wife,  and 
his  daughter-in-law.  It  is  completely 
covered  with  trees,  which  are  growing 
out  of  it  and  will  destroy  it  2  m. 
beyond  it  is  the  tomb  of  Sikandar, 
father  of  Ghiasu-din,  and  the  greatest 
of  the  monarchs  who  made  Panduah 
their  capital.  It  form s  part  of  the  great 
mosque,  called  the  Adina  MuBJid, 
the  finest  specimens  of  Mogul  archi- 
tecture in  Lower  Bengal.  It  was  built 
about  1360  by  Secunder  Shah,  and 
shows  traces  of  having  been  constructed 
out  of  Hindu  and  even  Buddhistic 
remains.  The  "Buddhist  railing" 
round  the  W.  front  is  incapable  of  any 
other  explanation.  The  Kiblah  and 
Mimbah  (pulpit)  are  gems  of  stone 
carving.  According  to  Mr.  Fergusson 
the  ground-plan  and  dimensions  are 
exactiy  similar  to  those  of  the  Great 
Mosque  at  Damascus.  It  extends  500 
ft  from  N.  to  S.,  and  300  ft  from  E. 
to  W.  This  space  is  subdivided  by 
transverse  brick  walls  and  stone  pillars 
into  127  squares,  each  covered  by  a 
dome.  On  the  outside  are  many  small 
windows,  highly  decorated  with  carved 
tiles  disposed  in  arches.  The  mosque 
proper  is  composed  of  a  central  apart- 
ment and  two  wings.  It  is  62  ft. 
high  in  the  centre  from  the  floor  to  the 
middle  of  the  dome. 

The  only  other  ruin  of  note  in 
Panduah  is  the  Sataisgarh,  said  to  have 
been  the  king's  palace.  It  is  situated 
opposite  the  Adina  Mosque,  and  is 
enveloped  in  the  most  dense  jungle. 

There  are  a  great  number  of  tigers 
and  panthers  in  and  near  Gaur  and 
Panduah,  and  in  the  Barindra  tract  and 
the  jungles  E.  of  them ;  but  the  English 
sportsman  who  desires  to  hunt  them 
must  be  prepared  to  spend  time  and 
money,  and  must  take  advice  from 
experienced  Nimrods  who  know  the 
locality.] 


From  Tin  Pahar  sta.  the  loop  line 
continues  N.  to 

291  qi.  Jamalpore  sta.  (R. ),  and  re- 
joins the  main  E.  I.  Rly^at 

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ROUTE  20.       CALCUTTA  TO  DARJEELINO 


India 


262  m.  Luekeesetai  juuc.  sta.  (see 
Rte.  1). 


ROUTE  20 

From  Calcutta  by  Eastern  Bengal 
Railway  to  Darjbbling 

The  traveller  leaves  Calcutta  by  the 
Sealdah  station. 

45  m.  Banaghat  junc.  sta.,  D.B. 
[Branch  line  E.  for  Bongong  and 
Ehoolna.] 

103  m.  Poradaha  junc.  sta.  [Branch 
line  E.  for  Goalundo  Ghat  (50  m.)  on 
the  Ganges,  Rte.  20b.] 

120  m.  Damookdea  sta.,  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  Ganges.  Here  a  steam 
ferry  is  in  readiness  to  take  passengers 
across  the  river  to  Sara  Gnat.  The 
distance  from  the  station  to  the  steamer 
varies  from  time  to  time,  as  all  the 
rivers  in  this  part  of  India  have  a 
tendency  to  change  their  course.  The 
variations  in  the  oed  of  the  Ganges  at 
various  places  connected  mth.  this 
railway,  oy  necessitating  changes  of 
railway  stations,  and  the  removal  of 
lines  of  rail,  have  caused  great  em- 
barrassment. Sir  William  Hunter  says : 
"Fluvial  changes  on  so  great  a  scale 
had  been  encountered  at  the  river- 
crossing,  where  the  Northern  Bengal 
Railway  begins  and  the  Eastern  Bengal 
Railway  ends,  that  no  costly  or 
permanent  terminus  has  yet  been 
attempted. " 

The  distance  from  the  right  bank 
sta.  to  Sara  Ghat  sta.,  on  the  left  bank, 
is  about  13  m. ,  of  which  a  considerable 
distance  is  on  temporary  rails  laid  on 
the  sand  in  the  dry  season.  The 
actual  crossing  by  ferry  steamer  occu- 
pies about  twenty  minutes.  Meals  are 
procurable  on  board.     At  Sara  Ghat 


the   Korthern   Bengal  Railway  com- 
mences ;  it  is  metre  gauge. 

At  24  m.  from  Sara  Ghat  is  Nattore 
sta.  (R.),  D.B.1 

111  m.  Parbatipnr  junc.  sta.  (R, 
from  whence  the  line  towards  Assam 
ruus  E.  through  Rungpore. 

173  m.  Jalpaiguri  sta.  (R.),  D.B.  i 
town  with  a  pop.  of  8000.  Formerij 
a  military  cantonment,  but  now  a  cirfl 
station  ;  chief  place  of  a  district  of  the 
same  name. 

[From  Jalpaiguri  Ghat  a  boat  leaves 
for  Teesta  Ghat;  thence  a  train  runs 
to  Dam  Dim.] 

196  m.  SiUiguri  sta.  (R.),  D.B.  The 
N.  terminus  of  the  Northern  Bengal 
Railway. 

From  this  place  to  Darjeeling  the 
journey  is  made  by  the  HimSjayan 
Railway  on  a  gauge  of  2  ft.  The 
distance  is  50  m.,  and  the  time  occupied 
eight  hours. 

The  line  is  constructed  in  the  most 
substantial  manner,  with  heavy  steel 
rails  (40  lbs.  to  the  yd.)  The  loco- 
motives, specially  designed  by  Messrs. 
Sharpe  and  Stewart  of  Manchester, 
weigh  1 0  tons.  The  speed  of  the  trains, 
both  up  and  down,  is  not  allowed 
to  exceed  7  m.  an  hour,  although  on 
special  occasions  16  m.  has  been  easily 
attained.  By  the  present  speed 
travellers  ascend  over  1000  ft.  an  hour. 
It  is  worthy  of  note  that  this  is  the 
first  work  of  the  kind  for  which  the 
capital  required  has  been  raised  entirely 
in  India. 

It  is  essential  to  make  this  journey 
by  daylight.  Travellers  are  strongly 
advised  to  have  extra  warm  clothing  at 
hand,  also  a  warm  wrapper  for  the  feet, 
as  the  transition  of  temperature  from 
the  plains  to  the  mountains  is  very 
great.  They  should  provide  themselves 
with  veils,  as  the  dust  and  blacks  from 
the  engine  fly  into  their  faces.  Those 
who  sit  on  the  front  seats  of  the  open 
carriages  are  especially  inconvenienced. 

1  A  bell  wiU  be  rung  at  Nattore  to  arouse 
passengers  by  down  mail  to  be  prepared  to 
alight  and  cross  by  ferry  at  Sara  Gbat. 


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Caanpa. 


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ROtJTE  20.       TEENDARIA — KURSEONG DARJEELING 


271 


At  Sookna  sta.»  7  m.  fiom  Silliguri, 
the  cars  begin  to  ascend.  The  turns 
are  very  sharp,  and  at  each  a  fresh 
landscape  of  surpassing  beauty  is 
opened  out.  The  sides  of  the  mountain 
are  clothed  with  lofty  trees  and  masses 
of  jungle,  with  graceful  tree-ferns  in 
the  gullies  at  the  higher  altitudes.  At 
about  15  m.  the  cars  pass  round  a  spur 
which  projects  from  the  mountain,  and 
the  line  runs  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice 
of  1000  ft.     Breakfast  can  be  taken  at 

19im.  Teendaria  (R.) 

At  30  m.  Kurseong  sta.  a^(R.),  D.B., 
tliere  are  tea-gardens,  with  European 
managers  and  medical  men  residing  on 
them.  Kurseong  is  6000  ft.  above  sea- 
iereL  Those  who  stray  off  the  main 
paths  in  damp  weather  must  take  pre- 
cautions against  the  leeches,  which  are 
numerous.  There  are  no  tigers,  but 
panthers  sometimes  carry  off  cattle. 

i'O  m.  Dazjeeling  sta.  ^  The  beautyof 
its  situation,  upon  a  narrow  ridge  high 
(about  7000  ft.)  above  the  bed  of  the 
Great  Ranjit  River,  the  mountain- 
side scattered  over  with  villas  and 
tmngalows,  and  the  colossal  background 
)f  Himalayan  giants  towering  above 
t:  these,  together  with  its  moderate 
»mperature,  which  neither  exceeds  80" 
n  summer  nor  falls  below  30°  in  winter, 
tend  to  make  Darjeeling  a  most  agree- 
iWe  residence,  and  have  rendered  it  the 
oost  important  sanitarium  of  Bengal. 

The  District  of  Darjeeling  (pop. 
>Ter  155,000)  is  divided  into  two  por- 
ions :  the  N.  is  from  4000  to  9000  ft. 
bove  the  aea-level ;  the  S.,  or  Morang^ 
onsists  of  the  spurs  of  the  first  range 
'f  the  Himalayas  and  the  plains  thence 
0  the  ZU'a  of  Rungpore.  Mountains 
rhich  rise  to  between  12,000  and  13,000 
>.  divide  it  from  Nipal.  When  Dr. 
ampbell  took  charge  in  1839,  there 
•ere  only  20  families  in  the  whole 
istrict:  he  remained  superintendent 
>r  22  years,  built  the  bazaar,  the  cut- 
leny,  and  church,  made  roads,  and 
?tHbIished  a  convalescent  dep6t  at 
dlapahar,    the  Military  Caintonment 

of  Darjeeling. 


The  Town.  On  the  Mall  is  the  band- 
stand and  a  drinking  fountain  erected 
to  the  memory  of  Ashley  Eden.  The 
old  Secretariat  is  a  fine  large  bungalow 
on  a  wide  plateau,  which  looks  more 
secure  from  a  landslip  than  any  other 
house  about. 

Above  the  Secretariat  is  8t.  Andrew's 
Church;  the  foundation-stone  of  which 
was  laid  by  Bishop  Milman  in  1870. 

The  old  church  dates  from  1843. 
There  are  tablets  in  it  to  George  W. 
Aylmer  Lloyd,  C.B.,  Lieut-Gen.  H.M.'s 
Bengal  Army,  who  died  at  Darjeeling 
1865,  aged  76.  To  his  pei-sonal  influ- 
ence with  the  Rajah  of  Sikkira,  Bengal 
is  indebted  for  the  sanitarium  of  Dar- 
jeelmg. 

Another  tablet  is 

In  Memoriam 

CHARLOTTE,  COUNTESS  CANNING, 

November  1862. 

There  is  also  a  Union  Chapel,  in  Auck- 
land Road.  About  ^  m.  beyond  the 
church  is  The  Shrubbery,  the  large  and 
comfortable  residence  of  the  Lieut. - 
Governor  of  Bengal,  who  spends  May 
and  June,  September  and  October  here. 

The  Eden  Sanitarium  or  Convalescent 
Hospital  is  a  most  conspicuous  build- 
ing:  it  is  in  the  charge  of  the  Clewer 
Sisters. 

The  principal  Bazaar  is  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  and  is  well  worth  a  visit. 
On  Sundays  the  bazaars  are  so  thronged 
that  it  is  difficult  to  make  way  tli rough 
them.  There  will  be  seen  numbers  of 
picturesque  natives  from  all  parts — 
Lepchas,  Limbus,  Bhutias,  Tibetans, 
Nipalese,  and  Paharis,  mixed  up  with 
the  Indian  servants  of  European  gentle- 
men and  Hindus,  as  well  as  Kabul  is, 
Cashmeries,  and  Parsi  shopkeepers. 

There  is  an  interesting  Buddhist 
temple  of  a  distinctly  Tibetan  type  in 
the  picturesque  village  of  Bhutia  Busti, 
1  m.  from  Darjeeling.  It  is  worthy  of 
a  visit  not  only  on  account  of  the 
temple,  but  also  to  see  the  hill-people 
who  inhabit  the  small  village. 

The  Botanical  Gardens  at  Runganin 
contain  an  interesting  collection  of 
trees  and  plants  peculiar  to  the 
Himalayas. 

From  Darjeeling  thi^  highest  Moun- 

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ROUTE  20.       CALCUTTA  TO  DARJBBLING 


Ifdia 


tain  Peaks  in  the  world  can  be  seen : 
of  the^ie  the  loftiest  is  MouiU  JEverestf 
29,002  ft,  visible  from  Tiger  Mill  (a  6 
m.  ride  from  Darjeeling)  or  from  Jela- 
pahavt  the  military  cantonment,  though 
the  distance  is  at  least  120  m.  The 
other  peaks  visible  from  Darjeeling  or 
Jelapahar  are:  Kinchinjanga,  28,156 
ft.  high,  45  m.  distant ;  Janu,  25,304 
ft.  ;  Kabru,  24,015  ft.  ;  Chumalari, 
23,943  ft,  84  m.  distant ;  Pauhanri, 
23,186  ft  ;  Donkia,  23,176  ft,  73  m. 
distant ;  Baudim,  22,017  ft ;  Narsingh, 
19,146  ft,  32  m.  distant ;  Black  Rock, 
17,672  ft  ;  and  Chomunko,  17,325  ft 

Consequently  the  great  attraction  of 
Darjeeling  is  its  unrivalled  Scenery, 
which  is  unspeakably  grand  and  im- 
possible to  paint  in  words  ;  but  there 
are  many  views,  and  particularly  that  of 
Kinchinjanga,  which  impress  the  mind 
more  and  more  every  time  that  they  are 
seen.  Too  often,  unfortunately,  clvuds 
veil  the  highest  peaks  for  days  together, 
but  at  times  these  roll  away,  and  dis- 
play the  bare  granite  summits.  One 
looks  over  the  lofty  hills  and  across  a 
vast  chasm  to  the  line  of  perpetual 
snow,  about  17,000  ft  high,  on  the 
side  of  the  stupendous  Kinchiujan^. 
Above  that  rises  a  glittering  white 
wall,  and  then  it  seems  as  if  the  sky 
were  rent  and  the  view  is  closed  by 
enormous  masses  of  bare  rock.  There 
is  one  special  feature  in  the  summit  of 
Kinchinjanga,  and  that  is  a  lofty  wall 
of  granite  of  prodigious  breadth,  which 
appears  to  divide  the  summit  into  two 
portions. 

The  effect  is  much  more  grand  than 
if  it  were  one  great  mass  of  snow.  The 
extraordinary  grandeur  of  this  scene  is 
heightened  by  the  colouring  given  to 
it  by  the  rising  and  setting  sun,  or  by 
the  moon. 

The  chief  industry  of  Darjeeling  is 
the  cultivation  and  manufacture  of  Tea. 
The  date  of  its  commencement  is  1856, 
when  the  first  tea-garden  was  opened. 
There  are  now  nearly  200  covermg  an 
area  of  some  50,000  acres,  and  the  out- 
put in  1882-3,  a  particularly  favourable 
year,  was  over  8,000,000  lbs. 

There  is  not  much  ^me  to  be  had 
in  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of 
Darjeeling,  but  to  the  able  pedestrian, 


the  botanist,  the  lover  of  th§  piotor* 
esque,  there  are  endless 

Excursions  to  be  made  on  foot 

(1.)  A  good  rider,  or  strong  Alpine 
climber,  may  make  an  interesting  ex- 
pedition of  4  days  by  Tongluto  PliiJlat, 
m  the  heart  of  the  snows.  The  dis- 
tances are  to 

Tonglu  (10,070  ft.),  23  m.;  thence  to 

Sundukpho  (11,975  ft),  15  m.  (paasiiig 

Kala  Pokri  (10,130  ft)) ;  thence  to 

PhalhU  (11,811  ft),  13  m.  (passiig 

Suburkim  (11,684  ft.)).     The  nem 

are  magnificent    There  is  a  good  D.E 

at  eacn  of  the  above  stations.     Pro* 

visions  and  bedding  must  be  taken. 

(2.)  Another  very  favourite  and 
interesting  excursion  is  to  the 
Bridge  over  the  Great  JtanjU  River^ 
6000  ft  below.  An  excellent  road  has 
been  made,  by  which  the  whole  descent 
can  be  easily  performed  on  ponies,  the 
distance  by  the  road  being  11m.  The 
zones  of  vegetation  are  clearly  marked, 
first  by  the  oak,  chestnut,  and  mag- 
nolia, which  grow  from  10,000  ft  to 
7000  ft  ;  secondly,  below  6500  ft  by 
the  AUophila  gigantea  or  tree-fern  (to 
be  seen  from  the  Himalayas  to  tiie 
Malayan  Peninsula,  Java,  and  in  Cey- 
lon) ;  thirdly,  by  the  Calamus  and 
Plectocomia  palms  (6500  ft.  is  the 
upper  limit  of  palms  in  Sikkim); 
fourthly,  by  the  wild  plantain,  which 
in  lower  elevations  is  replaced  by  a 
larger  kind.  At  1000  ft.  below  Daijeel- 
ing  is  a  fine  wooded  spur  called  libong, 
where  English  fruit  trees  flourish,  and 
the  tea-plant  also  succeeds  admirably. 
Below  is  the  village  of  Ging,  surrounded 
by  steeps  cultivated  principally  with 
tea,  also  with  rice,  maize,  and  millet 

At  10  m.  distance  from  Daijeeling 
is  the  junction  of  the  Banjit  with  the 
Bangmo.  The  Ranjit's  foaming  stream 
runs  through  a  dense  forest  From  the 
opposite  direction  the  Rangmo  comes 
tearing  down  from  the  top  of  Senchal, 
7000  ft.  above.  Its  roar  is  heard  and 
its  course  is  visible,  but  its  channel  is 
so  deep  that  the  stream  itself  is  no- 
where seen. 

Farther  down  is  the  junction  of  the 
Ranjit  with  the  Teesta,  which  is  sea- 

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273 


green  and  muddy,  while  the  Great 
Kaojit  is  dark  green  and  very  clear. 
The  Teesta  is  much  the  broader, 
deeper,  and  more  rapid.  This  expedi- 
tion will  take  two  days. 

If  time  permits,  it  is  well  worth 
following  down  the  Teesta  valley  to 
Sillirari  (see  above)  instead  of  return- 
ing by  train  from  Darjeeling, 

(3.)  Senchal,  8610  ft,  is  clearly  seen 
from  Jelapahar,  and  is  about  6  m.  otf. 
It  used  to  be  a  depot  for  European 
troops.  The  water  for  Darjeeling  is 
taken  in  pipes  from  the  Senchal  springs. 
An  expedition  may  be  made  to  it,  start- 
ing early  in  the  morning.  It  is  com- 
paratively easy  of  access,  and  fi-om  Jela- 
pahar the  path  along  the  ridge  of  the 
mountains  may  be  seen.  This  path 
abounds  in  rare  and  beautiful  plants, 
and  traverses  magnificent  forests  of 
oak,  ma^olia,  and  rhododendron. 

Oaks,  laurels,  maples,  birch,  chestnut, 
hydrangea,  a  species  of  fig,  and  three 
Chinese  aiid  Japanese  kinds,  are  the 
principal  trees ;  the  common  bushes 
being  Aucuba,  Skimmia,  and  the 
curious  Helwingia,  with  little  clustei-s 
of  flowers  on  the  centre  of  the  leaf, 
like  Butcher's  Broom.  In  spring  im- 
mense broad-leaved  arums  spring  up, 
with  green  or  purple-striped  hoods 
that  end  in  tail -like  threads,  18  in. 
long,  which  lie  along  the  ground  ;  and 
there  are  various  kinds  of  CJonvallaria, 
Paris,  Begonia,  and  other  beautiful 
flowering  herbs.  Nearly  thirty  ferns 
may  be  gathered  on  this  excursion, 
including  many  of  great  beauty  and 
rarity,  but  the  tree-fern  does  not  ascend 
so  high.  Grasses  are  very  rare  in 
these  woods,  except  the  dwarf  bamboo, 
now  cultivated  in  the  oj^en  air  in 
England. 


[India] 


ROUTE    20a 

The  Assam  Valley  and  Brahma- 
putra —  Calcutta    to    Dibku- 

GARH  BY  GaUHATI  (for  ShILLONG). 

:0f  The  Assam  Valley 

A  ti-aveller  wishing  to  visit  the  As- 
sam valley,  if  unencumbered  with  heavy 
luggage  and  not  averse  to  many  changes 
of  conveyance,  will  find  the  mail  route 
the  most  expeditious.  W  hether  coming 
from  Calcutta  or  Darjeeling,  he  leaves 
the  main  line  of  the  Eastern  Bengal 
Railway  at  Parbatipur  junc.  sta.  (see 
Rte.  20)  and  proceeds  along  the  branch 
line  £.  to 

23  111.  Eungpore  sta.,  D.B. 

33  m.  Kaunia  sta.,  D.B.,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Teesta  river.  Here  there  is  a 
wide  ferry  to 

Teesta,  D.B.,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the 
river  (a  line  branches  N.  to  Magalhat 
in  I  hr.)  The  Eastern  Bengal  Rly. 
(northern  section)  continues  E.  by  tram- 
ways, with  changes  at  river-crossings 
according  to  the  season  of  the  year,  to 
KurigrarHf  on  the  Dharla  river,  and  to 

Jatrapur,  on  the  banks  of  the 
Brahmaputra  river.  Here  the  River 
Steam  Navigation  Co. 'swell-appointed 
steamers  ^  are  in  readiness  to  take  pas- 
sengers and  mails  on  board.  These 
steamers  touch  at  the  civil  station  of 

Dhubri,  a^  D.  B.,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  Brahmaputra  river,  in  lat.  26"  2'  N., 
and  long.  90**  2'  E.,  at  the  point  where 
the  great  river  leaves  the  Assam  valley 
and  turns  S.  towards  the  Bay  of  Bengal. 
The  steamer  reaches  Ooalpara  about 

1  These  steamers,  or  others  in  connection 
with  them,  start  daily  every  morning  from 
the  terminus  of  the  B.  Bengal  Rly.  at  Goa- 
lundo  Ghat  (see  Rte.  20b)  for  Dliubri,  where 
passengers  change  on  to  the  mail  steamer. 
This  route  into  Assam  (though  many  hours 
longer)  is  preferred  by  some  to  that  via  Rung- 
pore  and  kannia,  as  it  avoids  the  crossing  of 
the  two  great  rivers,  the  Teesta  and  the 
Dharla,  and  the  consequent  changing  and  re- 
changing  from  trains  to  ferry-boats. 

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Mk 


noon  the  day  after  leaving  Dhubri,  and 
Gauhati  the  following  night.  The 
traveller  can  proceed  tne  next  day  to 
TezporCy  the  day  after  to  Nigriting  for 
Manipur,  and  about  24  hrs.  later  he 
will  reach  Dibrugarhy  the  present  limit 
to  the  navigation. 

The  Brahmaputra  River 

The  time  occupied  in  a  journey  up 
the  Assam  valley  is  so  considerable, 
that  travellers  are  not  recommended 
to  undertake  it  if  they  have  no  interest 
in  the  Province  or  no  friend  to  visit. 
If  they  do  ascend  the  river,  they  must 
remember  that  the  cold  wind  caused 
by  the  movement  of  the  vessel  is  most 
penetrating,  and  warm  clothes  are 
absolutely  necessary.  The  scenery, 
however,  in  many  places  is  striking: 
on  the  rt.  (1.  bank)  are  the  Garo  Hills, 
and  away  on  the  L  the  grand  range  of 
the  Himalayas,  and  the  wooded  Bhutan 
Hills  in  the  middle  distance  i  the  snowy 
range  is  kept  in  sight  all  the  way  up 
the  river,  and  is  seen  to  special  advan- 
tage at  sunrise.  At  Qoalpara,  D.B., 
situated  at  the  foot  of  a  conical  hill  (1. 
bank),  may  be  seen  picturesque  native 
merchants  and  wild  hill  tribesmen,  who 
come  down  from  the  mountains  to  trade 
in  skins,  etc.  Near  the  little  station  of 
Gauhati,  a^  D.  B.  (1.  bank),  the  scenery  is 
beautiful.  The  river  there  assumes  the 
appearance  of  an  extensive  lake  with 
mountainous  and  wooded  shores,  but 
except  at  Goalpara,  Gauhati,  and  two 
or  three  other  places  there  are  no  per- 
manent buildings  on  the  banks  or  any- 
where in  sight.  On  the  sandbanks 
alligators  are  to  be  seen  basking  in  the 
sun.  Close  to  Gauhati  is  Peacock  Island 
in  the  middle  of  the  river  with  a  temple 
upon  it,  and  at  a  short  distance  from 
the  station  there  is  another  temple  at 
the  top  of  a  hill,  approached  by  flights 
of  steep  steps  which  wind  round  to  the 
summit. 

[There  is  a  very  good  road  63  m.  from 
Gauhati  S.  to 

Shillong,  ^0^  D.  B. ,  the  headquarters  of 
the  Assam  Government,  and  a  military 
cantonment.  The  road-side  vegetation 
in  itself  makes  this  journey  a  pleasure. 


There  is  a  daily  tonga-pony-service  in 
8  hr.  to  Shillong,  but  if  the  trayeller 
desires  to  be  independent,  he  should 
engage  a  tonga  berorehand  by  address- 
ing the  manager  of  tonga  service  at 
Gauhati  There  are  small  D.Bs.  at 
Barni  Hat,  16  m.,  at  Nay  a  Bungalow, 
46  m.,  and  Borpani,  64  m. ;  and  at  the 
half-way  house,  Nangpoh,  there  is  a 
very  comfortable  bungalow,  with  ser- 
vants and  all  necessaries.  After  the 
last  bungalow  at  Borpani  the  aaceot 
becomes  nearly  continuous,   and  &e 

Eine  forests  {Firms  Kasya)  give  lie 
indscape  a  European  appearance. 
Height  of  Shillong  is  4900  ft.  aboie 
sea-level.  Average  rainfall  87*44  is. 
The  temperature  seldom  reaches  8(f 
F.  There  is  an  almost  total  absenft 
of  mist,  the  great  drawback  of  Indian 
hill-stations.  These  circumstances  make 
Shillong  one  of  the  most  desirable  hiD 
residences  in  India.] 

About  76  m.  above  Gauhati  is  Tespore 
(rt.  bank),  D.B.,  and  about  the  same 
distance  farther  is  Nigriting  (1.  bank). 

[Here  passengers  for  (210^  m.)  Mani- 
pur  leave  the  steamer.  There  is  a  good 
road  to  (17  m.)  Golaghat,  thence  to 
Samaguting  in  67  m.,  good  road,  ex- 
cept during  the  rains,  through  dense 
jungle.  34  m.  farther  is  Kohimt) 
tolerable  road  but  hilly,  and  92^  m. 
beyond,  through  hilly  but  well  culti- 
vated country,  is 

Manipur,  the  scene  of  the  lament- 
able disaster  in  1891,  when  Mr.  Grim- 
wood  the  Resident,  Mr.  Qninton  the 
Commissioner,  with  several  Britisli 
officers  and  their  men,  were  treacher- 
ously massacred  by  the  natives.  The 
game  of  hockey  on  horseback  wai 
formerly  almost  peculiar  to  Manipur, 
but  has  now  become  popular  in  Indi> 
and  England  under  tne  name  of  polo. 
The  Manipur  valley  being  2500  ft 
above  the  sea  eigoys  a  temperati 
climate. 

Manipur  can  also  be  approached  froB 
Cachar  (see  p.  276).] 

At  Dibrugarh,D.B.  (about  70  m.N.R 
of  Nigriting),  there  are  thousands  of 
acres  under  tea-cultivation,  traversed  hy 
a  railroad  which  runs  through  the  dis- 

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275 


trict.  The  CoaZ  Mines  in  the  neigh- 
boarhood  are  extensive  and  are  said  to 
be  unique  of  their  kind,  and  there  are 
also  Petroleum  Springs. 

Tea  Plantations 

There  are  centres  of  Tea-growing  all 
along  the  upper  Brahmaputra  valley. 

The  first  of  importance  is  Tezpore, 
about  250  m.  above  Dhubri.  From 
there  they  extend  all  the  way  as  far 
IS  Dibrugarh. 

Persons  who  wish  to  visit  the  Tea- 
districts  should  furnish  themselves  with 
introductions^  to  some  of  the  planters, 
who  are  very  glad  to  receive  visitors 
properly  accredited.  There  are  numer- 
ous D.Bs.  scattered  over  the  country, 
with  bridle-roads  to  all,  and  driving- 
roads  to  most  of  the  Tea-gardens  from 
the  stations  on  the  Brahmaputra.  A 
note  to  the  manager  of  an  estate  en- 
closing an  introduction  would  ensure 
the  visitor  being  met  at  the  station  by 
a  orriage.  If  the  traveller  wishes  to 
be  independent,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
take  a  pony  up  from  Calcutta  (via 
Goalundo)  and  ride  from  one  plantation 
to  another  throughout  the  district :  the 
owner  will  have  no  difficulty  in  selling 
it,  if  it  is  a  good  one,  before  he  returns. 


ROUTE  20b 

Calcutta   to   Dacca  and   Sylhet 
Valley  by  Goalundo  and  Nar- 

AINGANJ. 

Dacca  and  the  Sylhet  Valley, 
[For  line  from  Calcutta  to  Poradaha 
June.  sta.  (103  m..)  see  Rte.  20.] 

150  m.  Qoalnndo  Ghat  sta.,  the 
nminus  of  the  Eastern  Bengal  Rail- 
^y,  is  close  to  the  junction  of  the 
k«.^,  and  Brahmaputra  rivers,  which 

*  From  personal  friends  or  from  the  London 
d  Calcutta  agents. 


below  this  point  are  called  the  Meghna 
river,  and  form  a  very  large  booy  of 
water  several  miles  across. 

Goalundo  has  no  permanent  build- 
ings, as  the  river  banks  at  this  point 
have  for  many  years  past  changed  con- 
stantly and  destroyed  everything  that 
has  been  built. 

**  During  the  rains  the  forces  work 
with  uncontrollable  fuiy.  The  new 
(railway)  terminus  at  Goalundo  has 
suffered  from  a  disastrous  accident. 
Up  to  1876  the  Goalundo  station  stood 
upon  a  massive  embankment  near  the 
water's  edge,  protected  by  masonry 
spurs  running  out  to  the  river.  About 
£130,000  had  been  spent  upon  these 
protective  works,  and  it  was  hoped 
that  engineering  skill  had  conquered 
the  violence  of  the  Gangetic  floods. 
But  in  August  1875  the  solid  masonry 
spurs,  the  railway  station,  and  the 
magistrates*  court,  were  all  swept  away, 
and  deep  water  covered  their  site.  A 
new  GoAlundo  terminus  had  to  be 
erected  2  m.  inland  from  the  former 
river-bank  "  (Hunter). 

There  are  plenty  of  native  boats  at 
Goalundo,  and  a  regular  daily  service 
by  steamer  to  Karainganj  (104  m.) ; 
and  also  to  Chandpur  for  Chittagong 
and  Assam, 

254  m.Narainganj,  D.B.  (pop.  13,000), 
is  the  port  of  Dacca,  and  tne  terminus 
of  the  NarainganJ-Dacca-MyinensiTig 
Bailway.  There  are  several  old  forts  in 
the  neighbourhood,  built  by  Mir  Jumla 
in  the  17  th  century;  and  almost  opposite 
stands  the  Kadam  Basul,  a  small 
mosque  held  in  gieat  repute  by  the 
local  Mohammedans. 

[10  m.  Dacca  sta.,a^  D.B.  (83,760 
inhab.),  was  formerly  a  city  of  great 
importance,  but  has  fallen  into  decay 
owing  to  the  fact  that  the  river- 
system  of  this  part  of  India  has  com- 
pletely changed  within  this  century, 
and  Dacca,  once  the  capital  of  Bengal, 
is  now  cut  off  from  the  rest  of  the 
Province  by  a  vast  body  of  water  diffi 
cult  and  often  dangerous  to  navigate  in 
small  craft.  .   . 

The  city  looks  well  from  the  river, 
having  many  fine  modern  buildings 
facing  the  stream.  First  there  is  the 
House  of  a  rich  ffitidu  Seth,  then  comes 


276 


ROUTE  20b.       CALCUTTA  TO  DACCA  AND  RYLHET  VALLEY        India 


what  was  the  House  of  Zamindar  Wyse, 
an  Englishman  who  acquired  a  large 
fortune,  and  possessed  extraordinary 
influence ;  not  far  off  is  the  Palace  of 
the  Nawabf  whose  family  is  one  of 
the  most  distinguished  in  Bengal,  and 
celebrated  for  their  charitable  acts. 
Beyond  the  palace  is  the  Mitford 
HospUaly  a  fine  building. 

The  two  principal  streets  of  the  city 
cross  each  other  at  riglit  angles.  One 
extends  from  the  Lai  Bagh  palace  to 
the  Dolai  creek,  and  is  over  2  m.  long. 
It  runs  parallel  to  the  river,  and  has 
branch  streets  leading  to  the  landing- 
places.  The  other  leads  to  the  canton- 
ment N.  of  the  town,  and  is  1^  m. 
long.  At  the  junction  of  the  streets  is 
a  square,  with  a  garden  in  the  centre. 
The  Church  is  100  yds.  S.  of  the  Com- 
missioner's house. 

At  J  m.  from  the  church  is  the  well- 
kept  Cemetery.  It  contains  a  small 
tank,  and  some  fine  trees.  In  the  centre 
is  a  handsome  stone  gateway,  which 
marks  the  limit  of  the  old  cemetery. 
The  older  tombs  are  within  this  gate- 
way. There  is  a  finely  sculptured 
mausoleum  here  40  ft.  high,  with 
columns  of  a  peculiar  kind,  probably 
the  tomb  of  some  Mohammedan  of 
rank.  In  1575,  when  Akbar's  generals 
reduced  Bengal,  Sunhargaon  was  the 
chief  commercial  city  ;  the  Emperor 
Jehangir  made  Dacca  the  residence  of 
the  governor,  and  called  the  city  Jehan- 
gimagar. 

Notwithstanding  the  riches  and 
celebrity  of  Dacca,  there  are  few  old 
buildings  of  any  importance  left.  On 
the  S.  bank  of  the  river,  near  the  centre 
of  the  city,  is  the  great  Katra  (built 
in  1645  A.D.,  according  to  Hunter), 
which  means  "arched  building."  It 
bears  an  inscription  with  the  date  1625. 
The  small  Katra  was  built  by  Amiru'l 
umra  Shaistah  Khan,  in  1663.  To  the 
E.  of  the  town  is  the  Lai  Bagh^  begun 
by  Muhammad  'Azim,  son  of  Shah 
Jehan,  in  1677,  and  probably  never 
finished.  The  walls  are  of  red  brick, 
and  very  solid. 

The  Fort  was  built  by  Ibrahim  Khan, 
the  fifth  Mogul  governor,  in  1690.  In 
1712  J'afar  Khan  removed  the  court  to 
Murshedabad. 


A  considerable  quantity  ci  gold  and 
silver  plate  of  original  design  and 
excellent  workmanship  is  still  made  at 
Dacca,  chiefly  for  export  to  Calcutta ; 
also  gold  and  silver  filigree  work  of 
great  excellence.  The  manofacture  of 
shell  bracelets^  is  a  speciality. 

The  once  celebrated  Dacca  mu^ns 
— abrawaUf  or  "running  water,"  6b^- 
?iowat  or  "woven  sAr,"  subhananij  or 
"evening  dew  '* — are  almost  a  thing  of 
the  past ;  and  the  demand  in  Eonpe 
for  the  old  cotton  flowered  and  spriggBd 
muslin  has  almost  entirely  fallen  tS. 
But  there  is  a  brisk  and  increasui; 
demand  for  tussore  embroidered  mosIiH 
{kasidas) ;  and  other  kinds  of  muslii, 
striped  (dorias),  checkered  (eharkana\ 
and  figured  (Jamdani),  are  still  made 
here. 

The  most  pleasant  drive  at  Dacca  is 
round  the  Race-course,  about  1  m.  W. 
of  the  church.  S.  of  it  is  a  fine  countr; 
villa  belonging  to  the  Nawab. 

Dacca  is  a  good  place  for  Pig-sHeking 
and  Tiger-shooting,  There  are  exten- 
sive ruins  at  Sunhargaon,  but  they  can 
be  visited  only  on  an  elephant. 

Much  of  the  country  about  Dacca  is 
under  water  in  the  rainy  season,  from 
June  to  October. 

The  rly.  from  Dacca  proceeds  N.  to 

85  m.  Mymensiiig  sta.  (R.)] 

There  is  a  daily  steamer  from  Na^ 
ainganj  N.E.  to  Fenchuganj  in  Sylhet 
District,  the  head  of  the  navigation  aa 
the  Kusiara  river  in  dry  weather.  The 
journey  occupies  2  days.  (Fenchuganj 
is  in  a  direct  line  14  m.  S.  of  Sylbet) 
In  dry  weather  it  is  necessary  to  take 
country  boats  from  here  to  Cachar 
(Silchar). 

In  the  rainy  season  there  is  direct 
steamer  communication  between  Naiy 
ainganj  as  far  as  Cachar.  [Froi 
Cachar  to  Hanipiir  (see  Rte.  20a)  th 
distance  is  108  m.  ;  there  are  sev< 
officers'  Rest  Houses  along  this  rte. 
but  the  road,  in  places,  is  little  bette 
than  a  jangle  track.]  In  connectioi 
with  the  daily  service  a  steamer  nm 
once  or  twice  a  week,  in  one  day  fnw 
Cachar  to  Chatack,  D.  B.,  the  head  o 
the  dry -weather  navigation  of  A 
Surma  river.    ^  j 

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IVom  Ch&tack  a  boat  (sometimes 
steamer)  takes  a  traveller  in  half  a  day 
to  Companyganj,  whence  there  is  a  steam 
tramway  to  Teria  OhatJ),  B. ,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Khasia  Hills.  At  this  place  there 
is  a  small  D.B.  From  Teiia  Ghatto 
Ckerra-Punji:^,  D.B.,  on  the  crest  of 
the  hill,  there  is  a  ffood  but  very  steep 
bridle-path.  The  distance  is  10  m.,  the 
ascent  4500  .'t  Special  arrangements 
would  have  to  be  made  for  ponies,  but 
coolies  can  be  got  at  Teria  in  the 
morning. 

From  May  to  October  the  traveller 
must  expect  heavy  rain  on  the  southern 
face  of  the  Khasia  Hills,  and  all  baggage, 
specially  bedding,  must  be  properly 
protected  by  waterproof  covering  of 
some  sort.  The  nature  of  the  rain  can 
be  understood  by  the  fact  that  the 
average  yearly  fall  measured  at  Cherra- 
Pnnji  from  1877  to  1881  was  463  in. 
The  heaviest  recorded  rainfall  in  the 
world  is  said  to  have  occurred  here  on 
June  16,  1876,  when  40*80  in.  fell  in 
24  hours  ;  during  1861  the  total  rain- 
fall was  805  in.  There  is  a  good  seam 
of  coal  from  SJ  to  4  ft.  at  Cherra-Punji. 

The  distance  to  ShiUong  (see  p. 
274)  is  32  m.  by  a  good  road.  A  tonga 
may  be  obtained  by  addressing  the 
manager  of  tonga  service  at  Shillong. 
There  is  a  small  D.B.  at  Serarirn,  8  m. 
from  Cherra-PunJi,  and  a  good  one  at 
Dumpep,  half-way  to  Shillong.  The 
journey  from  Teria  to  Shillong  is  fatigu- 
ing, and  the  traveller  may  have  to 
rough  it  and  to  wait  in  some  discom- 
fort the  arrival  of  his  luggage  at  the 
different  stages,  but  the  scenery  is 
magnificent  and  the  climate  very  de- 
lightful.  Warm  wraps  are  absolutely 
necessary. 

Shillong  is  much  more  conveniently 
reached  from  the  N.  via  Dhubri,  the 
Brahmaputra  river,  and  Gauhati,  as 
described  in  Rte.  20a. 

There  is  a  regular  service  of  steamers 
from  €k>alunda,  in  connection  with  the 
train  from  Calcutta,  for  ChandpuVf 
whence  the  Assam  Bengal  Railway 
runs  to 

81  m.  Laksam  Jimotion  sta.  Here 
the  S.  branch  of  the  line  runs  to 

80  m.  Ohittagong  sta.  the  S.  ter- 
tnimtt.     It  is  the  chief  town  of  the 


district  of  the  same  name,  and  is  in 
the  Bengal  Province.  The  Chittagong 
district  came  into  British  possession 
by  cession  in  1760.  The  town  is  very 
unhealthy.  The  port  is  one  of  the 
best  in  India,  and  its  trade,  already 
considerable,  is  rapidly  increasing. 

From  Laksam  Junction  the  rail  runs 
N.,  passing  (16  m.)  Comilla,  (98  m.) 
Srimangalf  to 

159  m.  Karimganj  sta.  the  present 
terminus. 


ROUTE  21 

Calcutta  by  False  Point  to  Puri 
(Jagannath),  Black  Pagoda 
Bhuvanbshwar,  and  Cuttack. 

From  Calcutta  the  traveller  will  pro- 
ceed by  sea  either  to  Puri  direct,  or  to 
False  Point  Harbour,  thence  by  road 
to  Barano  Sta.,  where  rail  may  be 
taken  to  Puri  via  Khurda  Road. 

There  is  a  rly.  from  Calcutta  to  Dia- 
mond Harbour  (38  m.  in  2  to  3  hrs.) 
The  steamer  will  probably  anchor  for 
the  first  day  at  Kedgeree,  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Hooghly,  and  will  reach  False 
Point  the  next  evening.  From  Novem- 
ber till  the  middle  of  March  the  sea  is 
^nerally  calm,  with  light  winds,  and 
it  is  during  this  period  that  the  voyage 
should  be  made ;  after  that  the  sim 
becomes  very  heavy  along  the  coast, 
and  sometimes  excessively  dangerous. 

False  Point  Harbour. — Large 
steamers  are  obliged  to  lie  out  at  some 
distance  from  ite  mouth.  For  small 
vessels  the  harbour  is  safe  and  conveni- 
ent, being  formed  by  two  spits — Long 
Island  and  Dowdeswell  Island.  The 
Harbour-master's  house  is  now  2  m. 
from  Point  Ready,  at  the  end  of  the 
spit,  and  the  station  is  called  Hookey- 
tollah,  at  which  there  is  a  post  and 
telegraph  office.  Hookeytollah  was 
completely  washed  away,  and  the 
Harbour-master,  his  wife,  and  8  chil- 
dren, most  of  his  staff,  and  about  90 

It  is  important  for  the  traveller  to  know 
that  the  through  rly.  line  ftrom  Calcutta  to 
Madras  (via  Cuttack  Junction  for  Purl)  was 
opened  shortly  before  this  edition  was  sent 
to  press;  it  is  therefore  far  better  now  to 
make  the  Journey  to  Puri  by  rail  than  by  sea. 


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ROUTE  21,   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  CUTTAOt 


India 


natives,  were  drowned  by  the  Cyclone 
Wave  of  the  22d  September  1 886.  The 
station  has  since  been  rebuilt,  and  a 
large  masonnr  refuge  house  surrounded 
with  a  good  bund  faced  with  stone  has 
been  erected,  also  a  D.  B. 

From  Point  Palmyras  to  False  Point 
Light  is  only  about  30  m.  as  the  crow 
ilies,  and  False  Point  Lighthouse  is  now 
6^  m.  as  the  crow  flies  from  Point  Ready. 

The  locality  derives  its  name  from 
the  circumstance  that  ships  proceeding 
N.  frequently  mistook  it  for  Point 
Palmyras,  a  degree  farther  N.  A 
Lighthouse  has  oeen  erected  about 
4  m.  as  the  crow  flies  from  Point 
Ready.  This  lighthouse  is  built  of 
reddish  granite,  with  a  large  white 
star  in  the  centre,  and  is  129  ft.  high. 
It  was  lighted  in  1838,  and  has  a  white 
flashing  light.  False  Point  Light  is 
now  a  first  order  Dioptric  Occulting 
Light,  visible  26  sees.,  and  dark  4  sees., 
and  can  be  seen  19  m. 

In  the  dense  jungle  round  the  light- 
house tigers  are  to  be  found,  but  should 
not  be  tracked  except  in  the  company 
pf  experienced  hunters.  The  alligators 
are  of  prodigious  size,  sometimes  30 
ft.  in  length.  One  was  killed  with 
40  lbs.  weight  of  women's  bangles  in 
its  stomach ;  two  of  these  bangles 
weigh  1  lb.  There  are  excellent  fish 
in  the  harbour,  but  few  or  no  fisher- 
men. Good  oysters  are  obtainable  in 
the  harbour.  It  is  not  possible  to 
proceed  to  Puri  (Jagannath)  by  land 
from  Dowdeswell  Island,  as  the  Devi 
and  4  other  rivers  intervene.  There 
is  no  regular  accommodation  of  any 
description  for  travellers  at  False  Point, 
but  a  steam  launch  from  Cuttack  (65 
m.  from  the  harbour)  generally  meets 
the  weekly  steamers  from  Calcutta, 
which  invariably  touch  at  False  Point ; 
but  even  on  this  launch  passengers 
have  to  supply  their  own  food,  as  none 
is  carried  on  board. 

Failing  the  launch  there  are,  how- 
ever, plenty  of  massulah  boats,  which 
come  off  to  ships  unless  the  surf  be 
very  bad  indeed.  Even  in  the  calmest 
weather  the  surf  extends  about  80  yds., 
and  the  boat  is  thrown  up  at  such  an 
angle,  that  it  appears  as  if  the  crew 
must  be  precipitated  into  the  water. 


PnBI,3^  D.B.  The  distance  from 
False  Point  Harbour  to  Puri  is  68  m. 
There  is  no  shelter  whatever  for  a  vessel 
at  Puri.  The  Circuit  Hoiise  is  near  the 
D.B.  ;  it  is  roomy,  and  EngUshmen 
are  sometimes  allowed  to  stop  there. 
The  Church  is  about  80  yds.  distant 

The  town  of  Puri  is  about  1^  m.  in 
breadth  from  E.  to  W.,  that  is,  from 
the  sea  to  the  Madhupur  river,  and 
3}  m.  long  from  N.  to  S.,  that  is,  from 
Balikhand  to  Loknath  Temple.    The 
pop.  is  22,000.     But  during  the  great 
festivals  this  number  is  increased  by 
100,000  pilgrims.      The  town  cows 
an  area  of  1871  acres,  including  &e 
Kshetrttf  or  sacred  precincts.     It  is  a 
city  of  lodging-houses,  and  the  streeb 
are  mean  and  narrow,  except  the  Ba» 
dand,  or  road  for  the  Rath  of  Jagan- 
nath, when  he  goes  from  his  temple  ts 
his    country-house.     This   road  rma 
through  the  centre  of  the  town  N.  and 
S.,  and  is  in  places  }  furlong  wide. 
The  town  is  destitute  of  commerce, 
and   is    entirely    maintained    by  the 
income    of   the    Great    Temple,   and 
the   offerings   made   to  it     The  en- 
dowments   of   the    temple  provide  a 
total  annual  income  of  £31,000 ;  and 
the  offerings  of  pilgrims  amount  to 
at  least  £37,000  a  year  ;  no  one  comei 
empty-handed.    The    richer    pilgrims 
heap  gold   and  silver  and  jewds  at 
the  feet  of  the  god,  or  spread  before 
him  charters  and  title-deeds,  convey- 
ing lauds  in  distant  provinces.     Eveiy 
one,  from  the  richest  to  the  poorest, 
gives  beyond  his  ability  ;  many  cripple 
their  fortunes  for  the  rest  of  their  lives ; 
and  thousands  die  on  the  way  home. 
Ranjit  Sing  bequeathed  the  Koh-i-Nur 
to  Jagannath,  though   fortunately  it 
never  reached  its  destination.     There 
are  more  than   6000  male  adults  as 
priests,   warders   of  the  temple,   and 
pil^im  guides,  and,  including  the  mon- 
astic establishments,  and  the  guides 
who  roam  through  India  to  escort  pil- 
grims, there  are  probably  not  less  than 
20,000  men,  women,  and  children  de> 
pendent  on  Jagannatii.   The  immediate 
attendants  on  thegod  are  divided  into8< 
orders  and  97  classes.     At  the  head  of 
all  is  the  Rajah  of  Khurdha,  who  r^ 
presents  the  royal  house  of  Orissa,  and 


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ftOUTE  21.      JAGANNATH 


S7d 


wbo  is  the  herediUry  sweeper  of  the 
temple.  There  are  distinct  sets  of 
servants  to  put  the  cod  to  bed,  to  dress 
and  bathe  nim,  and  a  numerous  band 
of  nantch  girls,  who  sing  before  the  idol. 
Jagannath  (Ju^gumath)  (Sansc.= 
"Lord  of  the  Universe  ")  is  a  name  of 
Krishna,  worshipped  as  Vishnu  at  the 
&mons  shrine  of  Puri,  in  Orissa.     The 


OuUf  Snotoma^    IfiJl 


pilgrims  rush  forward  to  draw  it,  some 
may  have  fallen  accidentally  beneath  its 
wheels.  In  some  instances  also  votar- 
ies have  been  known  to  throw  them- 
selves beneath  the  advancing  wheels, 
giving  rise  to  the  popular  notices  of 
the  Car  of  Jagannath.  The  number  of 
such  suicides,  however,  has  been  greatly 
exaggerated,   and   since  Orissa   cmae 


ScaJe  200  ft  to  die  Incli. 
Temple  of  Jagannath  (from  Fergusson's  Indian  Arch.) 


unace  so  called  is  an  amorphous  idol, 
a  rudely  carved  log,^  which  some  learned 
men  believe  to  have  been  a  Buddhist 
aymbol:  it  has  been  adopted  as  an  object 
of  Brahmanical  worship.  This  idol  is 
annually  dragged  in  procession  on  a 
monstrous  car,  and  as  crowds  of  fanatic 

^  Strictly  speaking,  there  are  three  of  these 
disgusting  idols,  viz.  Jagannath,  liis  brother 
BaUibhadra,  and  his  sister  Subhadra. 


under  British  rule  the  number  has  been 
much  reduced.  In  1818  Mr.  Stirling 
the  Resident  had  witnessed  only  three 
instances  of  such  immolation  during 
four  years.  The  annual  mortality  of 
the  pilgrims  amounts  to  thousands,  but 
it  anses  from  the  pestilential  air  of  Puri, 
from  famine,  and  poverty. 

The  Temple  is  situated  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  nearly  1  m.,  as  the  crow 


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ROUTE  21.   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  CUTTACK 


Iiidn 


flies,  from  the  D.B.  It  stands  upon 
rising  ground,  which  is  called  Nilgiri, 
or  the  Blue  Hill,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  square  enclosing  stone  wall  about  20 
ft.  nigh,  with  a  gateway  in  the  centre 
of  each  side.  The  E.  gate  is  always 
open.  Within  is  a  second  enclosure 
surrounded  by  a  double  wall  having  an 
interval  of  11  ft.  between  the  walls,  and 
within  this  again  is  the  temple  proper. 
The  Hall  of  UfferbigSj  or  Bog  Mandir 
(D),^  is  said  to  have  been  built  by  the 
Marathas  in  the  last  century,  at  a  cost 
of  40  lakhs  of  rs.  It  was  part  of  the 
Black  Pagoda  of  Konarak,  and  was 
brought  thence  by  them.  The  Nath 
Mandir  (C),  or  dancing-hall,  also  of 
late  date,  is  a  square  hall  measuring 
69  ft.  X  67  ft.  inside.  The  walls  are 
plain,  with  only  two  figures  of  dwarpals, 
called  Jaya  and  Vijaya,  and  a  marble 
figure  of  Garuda,  2  ft.  high. 

The  Jagamohan  (B),  or  Hall  of 
Audience,  where  the  pilgrims  see  the 
idols,  is  80  ft.  sq.  and  120  ft  high. 
The  Baradewal  (A),  or  Sanctuary, 
where  the  idols  are,  is  also  80  ft.  sq. 
This  part  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
conical  tower  or  vimanah. 

The  idols  themselves,  that  is  to 
say,  Jagannath,  with  his  brother 
Balabhaara  and  his  sister  Subhadra, 
are  frightful  logs,  without  hands  or 
feet,  coarsely  carved  into  a  wretched 
likeness  of  the  human  bust.  The 
tower  is  192  ft.  high,  black  with  time, 
and  surmounted  by  the  Wheel  and 
Flag  of  Vishnu.  The  date  of  its  erec- 
tion is  1198,  and  it  cost  about  half  a 
million  sterling ;  but  it  has  since  been 
repeatedly  repaired,  to  "the  ruin  of  the 
temple  as  a  work  of  art." 

The  only  beautiful  thing  to  be 
seen  at  Puri  is  an  exquisite  Pillar 
brought  from  the  Black  Pagoda  at 
Konarak.  It  stands  outside  the  Lion 
or  E.  gate  of  Jagannath's  temple,  on  a 
platform  of  rough  stones,  antf  reckon- 
ing to  the  top  of  the  seated  figure  of 
Arnna,  or  the  Dawn,  which  surmounts 
it,  is  36  ft.  hi^h.  The  Lion  Gate, 
on  entering  which  the  pilgrims  are 
slightly  struck  with  a  wand  by  an 
official,  has  its  name  from  two  large 

1  These  letters  refer  to  corresponding 
letters  on  the  plan. 


lions  of  the  conventional  form,  with 
one  paw  raised,  which  stand  one  at 
either  side  of  the  entrance.  As  the 
door  stands  open,  it  is  possible  to  see 
the  bands  of  pilgrims  within,  but  not 
the  temples,  of  which,  besides  the  Great 
Pagoda,  there  are  more  than  100,  13 
of  them  being  sacred  to  Shiva.  There 
is  also  a  temple  to  the  Sun. 

There  is  a  street  about  45  ft.  broul 
all  round  the  temple  enclosure.  Turn- 
ing to  the  left,  from  the  Lion  G«te 
along  this  road,  the  visitor  comes  to 
the  S.  gate,  where  steps  lead  up  to  the 
entrance.  The  entrance  itself  is  15  ft 
high,  which  is  ornamented  with  many 
figures.  Above  are  depicted  scenes 
from  the  life  of  Krishna.  The  supports 
of  the  massive  roof  are  of  iron. 

It  often  happens  that  whUe  the 
visitor  is  viewing  the  bidlding,  a 
couple  of  men  will  pass  by,  cwrying 
a  bundle  by  a  pole,  which  is  passed 
through  it ;  the  bundle  being  a  corpse 
rolled  up  in  a  cloth,  and  so  carried  to 
be  burned. 

•1  m.  S.W.,  on  the  sea-shore  near 
the  Circuit  House,  is  the  Swargalhcan, 
or  "Door  of  Paradise,"  where,  when  all 
the  ceremonies  are  finished,  the  pil- 
grims bathe  in  the  surf  and  wash  away 
their  sins.  There  is  a  stump  of  a  pillar 
4  ft  high  on  the  right  hand,  near  a 
small  temple.  On  this  pillar  offerings 
are  placed,  which  are  eaten  by  the 
crows.  On  the  left  is  what  is  called  the 
Lahore  Math.  W^ithin  the  enclosure 
is  a  well,  with  excellent  fresh  water, 
which  seems  wonderful,  as  the  sea  is 
not  100  yds.  off".  Opposite  will  be 
seen  hundreds  of  men  and  women 
bathing,  the  surf  rolling  over  them  in 
its  fury.  Afterwards  they  make  Httle 
lumps  of  sand,  and  stick  little  pieces  of 
wood  into  them. 

To  the  N.E.  of  the  city,  passing  on 
the  left  the  Chandan  Tank  and  Temple, 
to  the  W.  of  which  are  the  Mitiani 
Tank,  and  the  Markhand  Tank  and 
Temple,  is  a  Bridge  said  to  have  been 
made  by  the  Marathas,  but  probably 
repaired  by  them.  It  was  built,  ac- 
cording to  Kaiendra  Lai  Mitra,  1038-50. 
It  is  278  ft.  long  by  88  ft.  broad,  and 
has  19  arches.  Over  this  the  main 
road  to  Cuttack  passes. 

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ROUTE  21.       JAGANNATH 


281 


&£.  &t)m  this  is  the  Garden  House, 
to  which  the  Car  of  Jagannath  is 
brought  at  the  Car  Festival,  in  June 
or  July,  when  pilgrims  come  trooping 
into  Puri  by  thousands  a  day.  The 
Ckrden  House  stands  at  the  end  of  the 
broad  sandy  avenue  called  the  Bara- 
dandf  1  m.  from  the  Great  Temple. 
The  house  is  a  temple  within  a  garden 
enclosed  with  a  wall  15  ft  high.  The 
principal  gateway  faces  the  temple,  and 
las  a  pointed  roof,  adorned  with  con- 
Tentional  lions.  The  gates  to  this 
temple  are  built  upon  the  Hindu  arch 
system,  with  a  series  of  slabs  support- 
ing the  roof,  each  a  little  longer  than 
the  other,  and  projecting  beyond  it. 
This  is  said  to  be  a  very  old  temple, 
but  it  has  not  much  pfetension  to 
architectural  beauty.  On  the  side  of  the 
temple  there  is  a  plain  raised  seat  4  ft. 
high  and  19  ft.  long,  made  of  chlorite, 
and  this  is  called  the  Batnavedi,  the 
throne  on  which  the  images  are  placed 
when  brought  to  the  temple. 

The  great  Car  is  45  ft.  high  &M  35 
ft.  sq.,  and  is  supported  on  16  wheelstif 
7  ft.  diameter.  The  brother  and  sister 
of  Jagannath  have  separate  cars  a  few 
ft.  smaller.  The  car  is  dragged  by  4200 
professionals,  who  come  from  the  neigh- 
bouring districts,  and  during  the 
festival  live  at  Puri  gratis. 

The  legend  is  that  Indradynmna 
pitched  his  camp  here  when  he  arrived 
at  Puri,  and  set  up  an  image  of  Nar- 
sing.  Here  the  Sacred  Log  from  the 
^ite  Island  stranded,  and  here  the 
Divine  Carver  made  the  images  of 
•Jagannath,  etc.,  and  here  Indradyumna 
performed  the  horse  sacrifice  a  hundred 
times  over.  On  the  walls  are  some 
fine  carvings  of  horsemen,  etc.  Out- 
side, over  the  door,  are  iron  figures 
of  women  2  ft.  high,  supporting  the 
nwf;  also  carvings  of  Brahma  with 
four  heads,  worshipping  Narayan  ;  of 
Krishna  playing  to  the  Gopis,  etc. 

The  Baradand  is  more  than  1  m. 
long.  It  is  180  ft.  broad  in  some 
places.  According  to  Rajendra  Lai 
Mitra,  Jagannath  and  some  of  his 
peculiar  ceremonial  observances  are  of 
Baddhist  origin,  and  the  Car  Festival 
marks  the  anniversary  of  Buddha's 
birthday.      Besides  the  Car  Festival 


there  are  the  following  holy  days :  (1) 
Ghomagi,  "warm  clothing  festival," 
when  the  images  are  dressed  in  shawls ; 
(2)  Abisheka,  sacred  as  the  anniversary 
of  Jagannuth's  coronation  ;  (3)  Makara, 
when  the  Sun  enters  the  sign  Capricorn. 
This  corresponds  to  the  Strena  of  the 
Romans.  •  (4)  Dola  Yatra,  or  Holif  to 
celebrate  the  return  of  spring,  the 
Carnival  of  India.  It  falls  on  the  full 
moon  of  Phalguna:  next  to  the  Car 
and  Bathing  Festivals,  this  is  the  most 
important  at  Puri.  (5)  Ramavavani, 
birthday  of  Rama,  when  Jagannath  is 
dressed  as  Rama ;  (6)  Damana-bhanijka 
Yatra,  anniversary  of  the  destruction 
of  a  demon  named  Damanika ;  (7) 
Chandana  Yatra,  the  Florialia  of  the 
Romans,  and  the  May-pole  of  modem 
Europe,  a  feast  of  flowers  ;  (8)  Rukmini 
Harana,  anniversary  of  Rukmini's 
elopement.  She  was  the  daughter  of 
Bhishm,  King  of  Berar,  and  was  be- 
trothed to  Shishupal,  but  ran  off  with 
Krishu.  (9)  Snana  Yatra,  or  "  Bathing 
Festival,"  when  the  images  are  brought 
to  the  N.  E.  corner  of  the  outer  enclos- 
ure and  bathed  at  noon,  then  dressed 
and  decorated  with  a  proboscis.  After 
this  the  images  are  removed  to  one  of 
the  side  rooms  for  a  fortnight,  and 
their  room  is  called  Andur  Ghar  or 
**siok  chamber,"  and  the  divinities  are 
said  to  be  laid  up  with  fever  in  conse- 
quence of  their  unusual  bath  ;  the  real 
object  is  to  wash  off  the  dust  and  soot 
of  the  year,  and  to  re-paint  the  idols. 
10  is  the  Car  Festival ;  11,  the  Sayana 
Ekadashi,  on  the  11th  of  the  first  half 
of  Ashadh.  This  marks  the  day  when 
Vishnu  falls  into  his  four  months* 
slumber.  The  images  are  put  to  bed, 
and  said  to  sleep  for  four  months.  (12) 
Jhulana  Yatra,  on  the  11th  of  the  first 
half  of  Shravana.  Madanamohana, 
the  proxy  of  Jagannath,  is  every  night 
for  five  nights  placed  in  a  swing  and 
entertained  with  singing  and  dancing. 
(13)  Janam,  birthday  of  Krishna, — a 
priest  acts  the  father,  and  a  nautch  girl 
the  mother  ;  (14)  Parshvaparivartana 
Ekadaslii,  11th  of  the  first  half  of 
Shravana,  in  honour  of  Vishnu  when 
asleep  turning  on  to  his  right  side ; 
(15)  Kaliya  Damana,  on  the  day  when 
Krishna    killed    the    black    serpent. 

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HOUTE  21.       CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AKD  CtJTTACK 


India 


Dr.  Hunter  supposes  this  to  be  the 
anniversary  of  a  victory  over  the 
aboriginal  Kagas,  by  the  Aryans.  (16) 
Vamana-janam,  anniversary  of  the 
birth  of  the  fifth  incarnation  of  Vishnu. 
Jagannath  is  dressed  like  a  dwarf,  and 
provided  with  an  umbrella  and  an  urn. 
(17)  Kuar  Punai,  at  the  full  moon  of 
Asnvina,  when  the  discus  of  Vishnu  is 
carried  in  procession,  borrowed  from 
the  Buddhist  rite  of  the  procession  of 
the  Wheel  of  the  Law  ;  (18)  Utthapana 
Ekadashi,  the  11th  of  Eartik,  when 
Vishnu  wakes  from  his  four  months' 
sleep. 

[18  m.  N.E.  from  Puri  is  Eonaxak, 
celebrated  for  its  so-called  Black 
Pagoda,  than  which,  with  the  single 
exception  of  the  temple  of  Jagannath 
described  above,  there  is  no  temple  in 
India  better  known  or  about  which 
more  has  been  written.  The  traveller 
should  on  no  account  omit  to  visit  it. 
The  cost  of  the  trip  is  about  as  follows : — 


Conveyance  \ 
16  bearers    /    * 
2  torch-bearers 

on 

6  coolies  .     .     . 

Gratuity  at  1  1 

anna  each    / 

Total  .    .    . 


rs.  as. 
9    0 


2 


1 

0  8 
8  6 

1  8 
15  8 


Bemarks. 


No  supplies  can 
be  got  at  Kon- 
arak  except  milk 
and  perhuss  eggs. 
The  travelllr  will 
do  well  to  mxry 
even  drinkftig- 
water  with  him. 


If  a  pony  can  be  procured,  it  will  be 
best  to  ride,  but  otherwise  the  journey 
may  be  made  in  a  palki  witn  eight 
bearers,  three  coolies  to  carry  provisions, 
etc.,  and  two  torch -bearers.  The  start 
should  be  made  at  3. 30  A.  m.  As  Uiiyas 
do  not  understand  Hindustani,  much 
less  English,  an  interpreter  is  necessary. 
The  path  at  first  runs  N.  for  about  2 
m.,  and  then  turns  to  the  right  and 
goes  direct  E.  The  whole  way  lies 
through  a  fine  grassy  plain,  in  which 
are  innumerable  herds  of  black  buck, 
which  are  so  tame,  that  even  the  noise 
of  the  ham/mala,  who  chant  a  monoton- 
ous song,  does  not  scare  them  away. 
There  should  be  a  relay  of  bearers 
at  10  m.  from  Puri.  The  trees  are  few 
and  far  between,  and  there  is  only  one 


hut,  which  is  near  the  river  Kushbhadra, 
13^  m.  from  Puri.  The  river  is  about 
100  yds.  broad  in  the  rains,  but  in  the 
cold  season  there  are  three  streams, 
swift,  but  only  1  ft.  deep.  About  1  m. 
from  the  temple  there  are  a  few  clumps 
of  trees  on  the  right,  one  thick  enough 
to  give  shelter  from  the  sun. 

At  first  sight  the  Black  Pagods 
is  disappointing.  It  has  on  the  N. 
side  a  neap  of  ruins,  45  ft.  high  md 
about  70  ft.  long,  sloping  down  at  a  steep 
angle.  This  was  tne  tower  that  coa- 
tained  the  idol.  In  front  of  it  is  tke 
Jagamohan,  or  porch,  now  the  only  put 
standing,  and  much  ruined  intemalk 
It  has  a  square  base  of  90  ft.,  is  bnut 
of  red  lateiite,  and  is  called  blaii 
'on  adbount  jpf  the  deep  shadow  it 
casts. 

The  whole  roof  is  excessively  beau- 
tiful, itndjpvered  with  elaborate  carv- 
ings, an(f4tr.  Fergusson  says  of  it  that 
there  is  no  roof  in  India  where  the 
aameplay  of  light  and  shade  is  ob- 
taii4A»  with  an  equal  amount  of  rich- 
i|lss  and  constructive  propriety,  nor 
one  that  sits  so  gracefully  on  the  base 
that  supports  it.  The  traveller  who 
has  seen  the  Hindu  temples  of  Northern 
and  Western  India  will  not  be  prepared 
to  find  iron  employed  in  sucn  struc- 
tures. In  Orissa,  however,  this  has 
been  the  case.  Fergusson  says  of  this 
building:  "Internally  the  chamber 
is  singularly  plain,  but  presents  some 
constructive  peculiarities  worthy  of 
attention.  On  the  floor  it  is  about  40 
ft.  sq.,  aud  the  walls  rise  plain  to  about 
the  same  height.  Here  it  begins  to 
bracket  inwards,  till  it  contracts  to 
about  20  ft.,  where  it  was  ceiled  with 
a  fiat  stone  roof,  supported  by  wrought- 
iron  beams  .  .  ,  showing  a  knowMge 
of  the  properties  and  stren^h  of  the 
material  that  is  remarkable  in  a  people 
who  are  now  so  utterly  incapable  of 
forging  such  masses.  .  .  .  The  employ- 
ment of  these  beams  here  is  a  mystery. 
They  were  not  wanted  for  strength,  as 
the  building  is  still  firm  after  they 
have  fallen,  and  so  expensive  a  false 
ceiling  was  not  wanted  architecturally 
tfl^roof  so  plain  a  chamber.  It  seems 
to  be  only  another  instance  of  that 
profusion  of  labour  which  the  Hindus 


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ROUTE  21,       BHUVANESHWAR 


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loved  to  lavish  on  the  temples  of  their 
f,'ods"  {UUt.  of  Arch,  p.  428).  The 
entrance  of  the  temple  is  on  the  £.  side. 
Tke  interior  of  the  hall  is  filled  to  the 
height  of  8  ft.  with  huge  stones,  which 
liave  fallen  from  the  roof  or  sides. 
Most  of  them  have  holes  in  them, 
showing  that  they  have  been  clamped 
with  iron.  E.  of  the  E.  door  are  two 
stone  lions,  with  strongly  marked 
manes,  and  one  paw  lifted  up :  they 
rest  on  the  backs  of  elephants,  which 
are  smaller  in  size.*  The  height  of  the 
entrance,  which  has  no  door,  is  16i 
ft.  The  roof  of  the  entrance  is  sup- 
ported by  two  rafters  of  iron  and  four 
of  stone.  In  front  of  the  entrance, 
amongst  the  stones,  lies  a  bar  of  iron 
23  ft.  long,  and  11}  in.  thick  and 
broad. 

The  sides  of  the  entrance  are  orna- 
mented with  eight  rows  or  .patterns, 
very  finely  executed.  The  temi)le  was 
dedicated  to  the  Sun,  which  divinity  is 
said  to  have  here  cured  Sambu,  son  t)f 


standing.  As  the  E.  door  was  guarded 
by  lions,  so  that  to  the  S*»was  by 
horses  trampling  down  armed  mepj- 
who  from  their  tusk-like  teeth,  crisped 
hair,  and  Kukri  knives  and  shields,  are 
evidently  intended  for  aborigines.  The 
N.  door  had  elephants  before  it.     These 


not  solid  enough  to  bear  90  enorm<^us 
a  structure.  He  has  probably  assigned 
the  true  cause  for  the  fall  of  the  build- 
ing, but  as  we  know  that  the  Marathas 
carried  off  large  portions  of  it,  it  is 
more  than  possible  that'  man  assisted 
very  signally  in  the  destruction.  Over 
the  E.  entrance  used  to  be  a  chlorite 
slab,  on  which  the  emblems  of  the  days 
of  the  week,  with  the  ascending  and 
descending  nodes,  were  carved.  Some 
English  antiquaries  attempted  to  re- 
move it  to  the  Museum  at  Calcutta, 
but  after  dragging  it  200  yds.,  gave 
up  the  attempt,  though  the  Indian 
builders,  after  excavating  the  block  in 
the  Hill  States,  and  carving  it,  had 
carried  it  80  m.  across  swamps  and 
unbridged  rivers  to  Konarak.  It  lies 
now  about  200  yds.  to  the  E.  of  the 
Great  Tree,  and  is  20  ft.  2  in.  long,  4  ft. 
deep,  and  4  ft.  10  in.  broad.  It  is  sadly 
disfigured  with  oil  and  red  paint,  with 
whicn  the  Hindus  have  bedaubed  it. 
At  the  Jagamohan  itself,  the  traveller 


Krishna,  of  a  leprosy  of  twelve  ^ears'^«hoj|ld  notice  the  spirit  with  which  the 


horses  at  the  S.  face  are  carved,  and 
also  the  device  on  one  of  the  shields, 
of  two  climbing  lizards.  The  sea, 
about  2  m.  off,  is  not  visible  from 
Konarak.] 

[Bhuvaneshwar  (pop.  4000),  38  m. 


and  the  horses  remain,  but  cast  down^  by  rail  from   Puri,  and   10  m.  from 
at  a  distance  from  where  they  stood.    ^  '"      '^  -■     '^ 

The  W.  door  is  closed  by  the  vast  heap 
of  ruins,  of  the  great  tower. 

To  the  S.  of  the  Jagamohan  is  a 
very  large  banyan  tree,  under  which  is 
a  good  place  for  the  traveller  to  take 
his  meal ;  and  near  the  great  tree  is  a 
grove  of  palms  and  sniper  trees,  and 
a  garden  with  a  mathf  or  devotee's 
residence ;  also  a  square  temple,  without 
any  idol  in  it  Milk  and  eggs  can  be 
procured  at  or  near  this  place,  where  a 
tent  might  be  pitched.  Stirling  fixes 
the  date  of  the  Black  Pagoda  m  the 
year  1241,  but  Mr.  Fergusson  attributes 
it  to  the  latter  half  of  the  9th  century. 
When  he  visited  Konarak  in  1837  a 
portion  of  the  Great  Tower  was  still 
standing.  He  is  of  opinion  that  the 
destruction  of  the  temple  was  owing, 
not  to  earthquakes,  or  man's  violence, 
but  to  the  nature  of  the  soil,  which  was 


Barang  (for  Cuttack).  Many  rums 
and  temples  are  passed  before  reaching 
the  Tovmy  once  the  capital  of  a  large 
and  flourishing  kingdom,  but  now 
interesting  only  to  the  antiquarian. 
It  occupies  the  central  area  between 
the  temples  of  Rameshvara,  Bhuvan- 
eshwar, Kapileshvara,  Bhaskareshvara, 
and  Rameshvara.  One  half  of  the 
community  are  priests  or  temple  ser- 
vants, who  rank  amongst  the  most 
persistent  beggars  in  the  world. 

The  first  mention  of  Bhuvaneshwar, 
in  the  Records  of  the  Temple  at  Ja- 
gannath,  dates  from  the  reign  of  Yayati, 
474-526  A.D.,  the  first  of  the  Kesaris,  or 
Lion  dynasty  of  Orissa.  He  expelled 
the  Yavanas,  thought  b^  Stirling  and 
Hunter  to  be  the  Buddhists.  His  suc- 
cessors reigned  in  Bhuvaneshwar  until 
Nripati  Kesari  in  940-50  a.d.  founded 
Cuttack  and  made  it  his  capital. 


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ROUTE  21.   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  CUTTACK 


tndvi 


7000  slirines  once  encircled  the  sacred 
lake ;  now  but  500  remain  in  various 
stages  of  decay,  exhibiting  every  phase 
of  Orissan  art  **  from  the  rough  con- 
ceptions of  the  6th  cent. ,  through  the 
exc^uisite  designs  and  ungrudginc 
artistic  toil  of  tne  12th,  to  the  hurried 
dishonest  stucco  imitations  of  the 
present  day."  It  is  easy  to  perceive 
that  there  are  two  styles  of  architecture 
which  run  side  by  side  with  one 
another.  The  first  is  represented  by 
the  temples  of  Parashurameshvara 
and  Mukteshvara,  the  second  by  the 
Great  Temple.  They  are  not  antagon- 
istic but  sister  styles,  and  seem  to  have 
had  different  origins.  "  "We  can  find 
affinities  with  the  first  two,  but  I 
know  of  nothing  like  the  Great  Temple 
anywhere  else." 

"The  Great  Temple  is,"  says  Fer- 
gusson,  "perhaps  the  finest  example 
of  a  purely  Hindu  temple  in  India." 
Unfortunately  none  but  Hindus  may 
approach  the  entrance  of  the  encloJiUre, 
the  high  walls  of  which  are  7  ft.  thick 
and  of  large  cut  stones  without  mortar. 
From  the  top,  however,  of  a  ladder 
placed  a^inst  the  N.  wall  a  view  of 
the  intenor  may  be  obtained.  Within 
are  also  many  smaller  temples,  of 
which  a  plain  one  20  ft.  high  is  the 
oldest.  At  the  N.E.  comer  of  the 
enclosure  wall  there  is  a  pavilion  per- 
haps built  for  a  music  hall,  but  now 
containing  an  image  of  Parbati. 

The  Great  Temple  was  built  by  Lelat 
Indra  Kesari  (617-657)  and  consisted 
originally  of  only  a  vimanah  and 
porch  ;  the  beautiful  Nat  and  Bhog 
mandirs  were  added  between  1090  and 
1104.  The  presiding  deity  is  Tribhuva- 
neshvara,  **Lord  of  the  Three  Worlds," 
generally  called  Bhuvaneshwar.  He 
is  represented  in  the  sanctuary  by  a 
block  of  ^anite  8  ft.  in  diameter,  and 
rising  8  m.  above  the  floor.  It  is 
bathed  with  water,  milk,  and  bhang. 
There  are  twenty-two  dhupas^  or  cere- 
monies daily,  consisting  in  washing  the 
teeth  of  the  divinity,  moving  a  lamp  in 
front,  dressing,  breakfast,  etc. 

The  Great  Tower  can  be  seen  from 
outside  the  wall.    It  is  55  ft.  high,  and , 


though  not  so  large,  is  decidedly  fiuer 
in  design  than  that  at  Tanjore.  *  *  Eveir 
inch  of  the  surface  is  covered  with 
carving  in  the  most  elaborate  manner ; 
it  is  not  only  the  divisions  of  the 
courses,  the  roll  mouldings  on  the 
angles,  or  the  breaks  on  the  face  of  the 
tower,  but  every  individual  stone  in 
the  tower  has  a  pattern  carved  upon 
it.'*  Especially  in  the  perpendicukr 
parts  seen  from  the  courtyard  "tiie 
sculpture  is  of  a  vej-y  high  order  and 
great  beauty  of  design."  The  top  of 
the  spire  is  flat,  and  from  the  centre 
rises  a  cylindrical  neck,  supporting  t 
ribbed  dome,  over  which  is  placed  the 
Kalasha  or  *  *  pinnacle. "  Twelve  statues 
of  lions  seated  support  the  dome.  Ovct 
it  is  a  broken  trident. 

The  Nat  Maadir  is  elegant,  of  course, 
but  differs  from  the  style  of  the  porch, 
**  in  that  all  power  of  expression  is  gone 
\vjiich  enabled  the  early  architects  to 
make  small  things  look  gigantic  from 
^the  mere  exuberance  of  labour  bestowed 
on  them." 

OutsMe  the  enclosure  are  many  small 
subterraneous  temples,  and  at  the  N.E. 
comer  is  a  platform  with,  beyond  to  the 
E.,  a  very  nandsome  t-ank  surrounded 
by  a  row  of  108  small  temples.  The 
jungle  to  the  S.  of  the  Great  Tower,  to 
the  extent  of  20  acres,  is  said  to  be  the 
site  of  Lelat  Indra  Kesari's  palace,  and 
exhibits  everywhere  the  remains  of 
foundations  and  pavements.  N.  of 
the  temple  is  the  very  fine  tank  called 
VindusaugaTy  '* ocean  drop."  In  the 
centre  is  a  Jal  Mandir,  or  **  Water 
Pavilion,"  consisting  of  several  shrines, 
on  which  perch  numerous  cranes  in 
motionless  repose.  In  front  of  the 
central  ghat  of  this  tank  there  is  a 
magnificent  temple,  with  a  porch,  a 
more  modern  dancing-hall,  and  Bhog 
Mandir.  All  but  the  Bhog  Mandir  are 
lined  with  brick-red  sandstone,  elabor- 
ately sculptured.  The  temple  is  sacred 
to  Vasudev,  or  Krishna,  and  Ananta  or 
Balaram,  and  no  pilgrim  is  allowed  to 
perform  any  religious  ceremony  in  the 
town  or  to  visit  Bhuvaneshwar  without 
praying  for  permission  here.  Passing 
along  the  E.  side  of  the  tank,  the 
traveller  will  see  several  temples  of  the 


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ROUTE  21.      BHUVANEBHWAR 


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same  shape  as  the  Great  Tower.  About 
J  m.  to  the  E.N.E.  of  the  Ananta  and 
Vasudev  Temple  is  one  about  40  ft. 
high  to  KotUirtheshvara^  "The  lord 
of  ten  millions  of  sacred  pools."  It  is 
evidently  built  of  stones  from  some 
other  edifice.  ^  m.  to  the  E.  of  this  is 
the  Temple  of  BrahTneshvara^  on  a  high 
mound,  formed  into  a  terrace.  It  is 
mo.st  sumptuously  carved,  inside  as  well 
88  out,  and  was  erected  at  the  end  of 
the  9th  cen  tury  A.  D.  W.  of  tbe  temple, 
close  to  its  terrace,  is  a  tank  called 
Brahma  Eunda.  N.E.  of  the  Great 
Tower  is  an  old  ruined  temple  to  Bhas- 
hareshvaray  **  Sun -god,"  of  basalt,  and 
said  to  belong  to  the  close  of  the  5th  or 
the  beginning  of  the  6th  century. 

i  m.  to  the  W.  of  Bhaskareshvara  is 
the  once  magnificent  Temple  of  Baj 
Banl  Mr.  Fergusson  says  of  it  {fiist. 
of  Arch.  p.  424)  that  "the  plan  is 
arranged  so  as  to  give  great  variety 
and  may  of  light  and  shade,  and  as  the 
details  are  of  the  most  exquisite  beauty, 
it  is  one  of  the  gems  of  Orissan  Art." 
It  faces  the  E.,  knd  has  a  porch  in 
front,  both  of  dressed  brick-red  sand- 
stona  The  niches  are  filled  with 
statues  3  ft.  high,  executed  with  great 
vigour  and  elegance ;  one  of  them  closely 
resembles  the  statue  of  Venus  de  Medici. 
General  Stewart  and  Colonel  Mackenzie 
carried  away  numbers  of  statues  and 
sadly  defaced  the  building.  Observe 
the  pillar  with  3  kneeling  elephants 
and  lions,  with  above  a  Na^ni  or 
female  Naga  with  her  seven-headed 
snake  hood,  and  over  the  doorways  the 
Navagraha  or  9  planets. 

About  300  yds.  to  the  W.  of  the  Raj 
Rani  is  a  grove  of  mango  trees,  called 
Siddharanya,  "Grove  of  th^  perfect 
beings."  Here  many  temples  were 
built  of  which  more  than  20  remain 
entire.  Of  these  the  most  remarkable 
are  Mukteshvara,  Kedareshvara,  Sid- 
dheshvara,  and  Parashurameshvara. 

Mukteshyara  is  the  handsomest, 
though  the  smallest.  It  is  35  ft.  high, 
and  the  porch  25  ft.  high.  The  floral 
bands  are  better  executed  than  in 
most  of  the  temples ;  the  bas-reliefs 
sharp  and  impressive ;  the  statuettes 
vigorous    and    full    of    action,    with 


drapery  well  disposed,  and  the  dis- 
position of  the  whole  elegant  and  most 
effective.  Among  the  subjects  are: 
a  lady  mounted  on  a  rearing  elephant 
and  attacking  an  armed  giant ;  a  figure 
of  Annapurna  presenting  alms  to 
Shiva  ;  females,  half- serpents,  canopied 
under  five  or  seven  -  headed  cobras ; 
lions  mounted  on  elephants,  or  fighting 
with  lions  ;  damsels  dancing  or  ])lay- 
ing  on  the  mridang;  an  emaciated 
hermit  giving  lessons.  The  scroll- 
work, bosses,  and  friezes  are  worthy  of 
note.  The  chamber  of  the  temple  is 
7  ft.  sq.,  but  outside  measures  18  ft 
In  front  of  the  porch  is  a  To  ran  15  ft. 
high.  It  is  supported  on  two  columns 
of  elaborate  workmanship,  unlike  any- 
thing of  the  kind  at  Bhuvaneshwar. 
Over  it  are  two  reclining  female  figures. 
It  is  said  that  it  is  used  for  swinging, 
in  the  Dol  Festival.  Close  behind  the 
temple  is  a  tank  shaded  by  a  Nagakesh- 
vara  tree  (Mesuaf erred)  of  remarkable 
size  and  beauty  ;  30  ft.  to  the  S.  is  the 
Gauri  Kunda  tank.  The  water  is 
beautifully  clear,  tepid,  and  full  of  fish, 
and  the  best  drinking  water  in  the 
locaUty.  Water  flows  into  it  from  the 
first-named  tank,  but  a  much  greater 
quantity  flows  out,  sufficient  to  irrigate 
25  acres  of  arid  laterite  soil.  It  is  said 
to  have  been  excavated  by  the  goddess 
Gauri,  and  that  it  bestows  beauty,  good 
fortune,  and  freedom  from  all  sin. 

Eedareshyara.— Close  by  this  Kunda 
is  the  Kedareshvara  Temple,  and  near 
it  against  the  outer  wall  of  a  small 
room  is  a  figure  of  Hanuman,  the 
monkey -god,  8  ft.  high,  and  one  of 
Durga,  standing  on  a  lion.  Her  statue 
is  of  chlorite,  and  has  the  finest  female 
head  to  be  seen  in  Bhuvaneshwar.  The 
Kedareshvara  temple  is  41  ft.  high, 
and  has  an  almost  circular  ground- plan. 
This  temple  is  probably  older  than  the 
Great  Tower,  and  possibly  dates  from 
the  middle  of  the  6th  century.  It  is 
very  sacred. 

N.W.  of  Mukteshvara  is  Siddesh- 
vara,  which  is  very  ancient,  and  was 
once  the  most  sacred  spot  on  this  side 
of  Bhuvaneshwar.  It  is  47  ft  high, 
and  has  a  well-proportioned  porch. 


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Parashurameshvara,  200  yds.  to  the 
W.  of  the  Gauri  tank,  Fergusson  con- 
siders the  oldest  temple  at  Bhuvan- 
esh  war.  *  *  The  sculptures  are  cut  with 
a  delicacy  seldom  surpassed."  The 
ground-plan  is  a  square,  the  porch  is 
oblong  and  covered  with  bas-reliefs 
representing  processions  of  horses  and 
elephants  in  the  upper  linear  bands 
under  the  cornice,  and  scenes  from  the 
life  of  Rama  in  the  lower.  The  roof  is 
a  sloping  terrace,  in  the  middle  of 
which  is  a  clear  story  with  a  sloping 
roof;  flat  in  the  middle.  As  the  roof- 
stones  project  beyond  the  openings, 
neither  direct  rays  of  sun  nor  rain  can 
penetrate.  This  occurs  nowhere  else 
except  in  the  Mohan  of  the  Vaital 
Temple. 

Aldbukeshvara  is  of  red  sandstone, 
and  stands  to  the  N.  E.  of  the  last. 

Vaital  Dewal  stands  on  the  roadside 
to  the  W.  of  the  Vindusaugar  tank.  1  ts 
spire  is  four-sided,  and  ends  in  a  long 
ndge  profusely  carved  and  probably  of 
the  9th  century. 

Someshvara  stands  to  the  S.  of  the 
last  named.  It  is  38  ft.  high  and  27 
ft.  square,  and  richly  carved  all 
over. 

A  list  of  81  other  temples  will  be 
found  in  the  Antiquities  of  Orissa,  vol. 
ii.  pp.  97,  98.] 

[The  Caves  of  XJdayagiri  and  Khan- 
da{^  lie  about  4  m.  to  the  N.W. 
through  low  jungle,  which  gradually 
increases  till  the  hills  are  reached. 

Udayagiri  is  110  ft.  high,  and  the 
caves  exist  in  eight  stages.  The  lowest 
being  the  Rani  Naur,  or  Queen's  Palace, 
called  by  Fergusson  the  Raj  Rani  Cave, 
near  the  guide's  hut  "  It  consists  of 
two  rows  of  cells,  one  above  the  other, 
shaded  by  pillared  verandahs,  with  a 
courtyard  49x43  ft.  cut  out  of  the 
hillside."  The  upper  story,  which 
faces  E.,  has  eight  enti*ances.  There 
are  two  dwarpals,  representing  men  in 
what  appears  to  be  Grecian  armour, 
with  buskins  and  greaves,  cut  out  of 
the  solid  rock  in  alto-relievo.  The 
verandah  gives  access  to  four  small 
cells,  and  at  either  end  is  a  rock  lion, 
executed  with  spme  spirit.  The  back 
wall  of  the  verandah  is  an  extensive 


series  of  tableaux,  difficult  to  makie  out 
First  on  the  left  are  men  carrying  fhiit, 
a  ^oup  of  elephants,  and  soldiers  armed 
with  swords. 

The  lower  story  also  has  eight  en- 
trances. The  ground-floor  front  was 
formed  of  a  colonnaded  verandah  44  ft. 
long,  having  a  raised  seat  or  benne 
along  its  whole  inner  line.  It  was 
formerly  supported  by  a  row  of  eight 
square  pillars,  of  which  only  the  two 
end  ones  -remain,  and  opened  E.  into 
an  oblong  chamber,  and  N.  into  three 
rooms.  Here  there  is  an  extensiifi 
frieze,  much  dilapidated,  so  that  only 
four  fragments  admit  of  description. 
The  first  represents  a  house,  and  a  female 
figure  looks  out  of  each  of  the  3  doors 
and  one  from  the  balcony,  which  is 
protected  by  a  Buddhist  rail.  A 
similar  rail  runs  in  front  of  the  lower 
story,  with  a  large  tree  by  its  side.  In 
the  second  fragment  a  saint  or  priest 
holds  a  piece  of  cloth  in  his  left  hand 
and  extends  the  right  as  in  the  act  of 
blessing ;  one  servant  holds  an  um- 
brella, and  another  carries  a  sword. 
Lt.  is  a  devotee  on  his  knees,  and  be- 
yond two  kneeling  women  bring  offer- 
ings, one  dusting  the  feet  of  a  boy,  who 
has  one  hand  on  her  head.  In  the 
third  fragment  is  a  saddle-horse  with 
three  attendants,  and  the  holy  man 
with  an  umbrella  held  over  him,  and 
two  attendants  with  swords.  In  the 
fourth  fragment  there  is  a  group  of 
six  women,  three  carrying  pitchers 
on  their  heads,  one  kneeling  and 
offering  her  pitcher  to  a  figure,  which 
is  lost. 

Ganesh  Gumpha  (or  more  correctly 
Gupha)  is  almost  due  N.  of  the  Rani 
Naur  Cave,  and  much  higher  in  the 
hill.  It  has  only  one  story,  but  two 
compartments,  with  a  verandah  in 
front.  There  are  three  pillars  in  the 
front  of  the  verandah,  square  and 
massive,  but  two  others  have  fallen. 
The  pillars  have  brackets,  with  female 
figures  carved  on  them.  The  flight  of 
steps  leading  to  the  verandah  has  a 
crouching  elephant  on  either  side,  each 
holding  a  lotus  in .  his  trunk.  The 
verandah  is  5  ft.  4  in.  high,  and  its 
wall  is  ornamented  with  a  series  of  8 
tableaux  in  alto-relievo.     This  fiiew 

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and  t^iat  in  the  Rani  Naur  Cave  repre- 
sent the  same  story,  the  main  difference 
being  that  in  this  cave  the  figures  are 
more  classical  and  better  drawn,  and, 
therefore,  Mr.  Fergusson  thinks,  more 
modem.  In  the  Rani's  cave  they  are 
certainly  more  Hindu.  Of  the  story 
iiom  which  these  designs  are  taken, 
nothing  is  known. 

50  yds.  W.  of  Rani  Naur  Cave  is  a 
flight  of  steps  which  lead  to  a  two- 
storied  cave  called  Stvargapuri,  Both 
stories  have  two  rooms,  with  a  verandah 
in  front,  which  has  been  supported  by 
pillars  now  broken.  There  is  no  carving 
or  inscription  except  on  some  pilasters 
near  the  door,  from  the  top  of  which 
runs  a  line  of  Buddhist  rails,  sur- 
mounted by  an  elephant  in  bas-relief, 
with  what  is  perhaps  a  human  figure 
wd  a  tree  behind  it. 

X.  of  these  are  the  Jaya  Vijaya^  or 
Caves  of  Hansapur.  There  is  a  frieze 
with  three  compartments,  the  base 
being  formed  of  a  line  of  Buddhist 
rails.  In  the  central  compartment  is 
a  Bo  tree.  Beside  the  tree  are  two 
male  figures,  that  on  the  left  with 
folded  hands,  and  that  on  the  right 
holdmg  a  bit  of  cloth  tied  to  the  tree 
and  a  small  branch.  Near  the  men 
are  two  females  bringing  trays  of 
offerings.  The  scroll-work  on  the 
semicircular  bands  over  the  doorways 
are  different,  and  beyond  them  are  two 
turbaned  figures  carrying  trays  of 
offerings.  At  the  sides  of  the  facjade 
are  a  man  and  woman,  6  ft.  high,  in 
alto-relievo.  To  the  left  is  a  small 
cave  called  Dwarkapura. 

Gopalapura. — To  the  N.W.  are  two 
gronps  of  caves,  named  Gopalapura 
and  Manchapura.  On  the  piers  of  the 
hall  are  two  inscriptions  in  the  Lat 
character,  now  ille^ble. 

Vaikwitha, — This  and  two  other 
cares,  Patalapura  and  Jamapura,  are 
a  little  to  the  N.W.  They  are  much 
defaced  and  are  now  uninteresting. 

75  yds.  to  the  N*W.  is  the  Hathi 
OuphOf  or  ^*  Elephant  Cave,"  of  which 
Mr.  Fergusson  says :  *  *  It  is  an  extensive 
natural  cave,  unimproved  by  art "  {Tree 
and  Sen)e7U  Worship,  2d  ed.  p.  267). 
To  the  feftr  is  a  boulder  which  has  been 
hollowed  out  into  a  cell  5  ft.  sq.    Over 


the  entrance,  cut  into  the  scarped  rock, 
is  an  inscription  in  the  most  ancient 
Lat  character,  perhaps  the  oldest 
Indian  engraved  document  that  has 
come  down  to  us.  This  long  inscription 
is  an  account  of  the  grandeur  and  piety 
of  Aira  the  King  of  Kalinga. 

"All  who  take  interest  in  Indian 
antiquities,"  says  Prinsep,  "will  at 
once  see  the  value  of  the  above 
record,  perhaps  the  most  curious  that 
has  yet  been  disclosed  to  us."  Rajen- 
dra  Lai  Mitra  supposes  that  Aira  men- 
tioned in  the  inscription  lived  within 
the  hundred  years  preceding  the  acces- 
sion of  Chandragupta  to  the  throne  of 
Magadha,  in  316  B.c.  There  are  several 
smaller  inscriptions  within  the  cave, 
some  in  ill-formed  Gupta  character, 
others  in  equally  degenerate  Kutila. 
They  were  cut  probably  by  idle  monks 
or  visitors.  A  few  yds.  N.  of  the 
Elephant  Cave  is  the  Pavana  Gupha, 
or  "  Cave  of  Purification." 

About  76  ft.  to  the  S.W.  of  the 
Pavana  Gupha  is  the  Sarpa  Gupha,  or 
"Serpent  Cave."  On  the  top  of  the 
entrance  is  a  rude  carving  of  the  hood 
of  a  three-headed  cobra.  Under  this 
is  the  door,  through  which  a  man  can 
just  crawl ;  the  interior  is  a  cube  of  4  ft. 
Beside  the  door  is  an  inscription  thus 
translated  by  James  Prinsep:  "The 
unequalled  chamber  of  Chulakarma 
and  the  appropriate  temple  of  Karma 
Rishi."  Near  this  is  the  Bhajana 
Gupha,  or  "Cave  of  Meditation."  A 
little  to  the  N.  is  the  Alakapura,  or 
"  Palace  of  Indra."  Neither  is  of  any 
importance. 

Bagh  Oupha,  or  "Tiger  Cave."— At 
60  ft.  to  the  N.  is  the  very  interesting 
Tiger  Cave,  cut  externally  into  the 
shape  of  the  upper  part  of  a  tiger's 
head,  with  the  jaws  at  full  gape. 
The  eyes- and  nose  of  the  monster  are 
very  well  marked,  but  the  teeth  are 
now  imperfectly  discernible.  The 
head  at  top,  where  it  joins  the  hill, 
is  8  ft.  8  in.  broad.  The  gape  is  9  ft. 
wide,  and  the  entrance  to  the  cell 
occupies  the  place  of  the  gullet  To 
the  right  of  the  entrance  is  an  inscrip- 
tion in  the  Lat  character,  which  says, 
"The  Cave  of  Sase'vin,"  a  fierce  oppon- 
I  ent  of  the  Vedas.     At  the  beginning 

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of  the  inscription  is  a  Buddhist  mono- 
gram, and  at  the  end  a  Svastika.  A 
little  N.  of  the  Tiger  Cave  is  the 
Urdhabahu,  a  one-storied  chamber,  12 
ft.  X  6  ft.  wide,  with  a  verandah 
faced  by  pillars  with  lion  capitals  and 
brackets  carved  like  female  figures. 
It  has  an  illegible  inscription  in  the 
Lat  character. 

Khaivdagiri  J^iW.— This  hill  is  133 
ft  high,  and  faces  E.  It  is  thickly 
covered  with  trees.  The  path  which 
leads  to  the  top  is  steep,  and  at  the 
height  of  about  50  ft.  divides  into  two, 
one  branch  leading  to  the  left,  and  to 
a  range  of  caves  cut  in  the  E.  face  of 
the  hUl  (see  below). 

The  path  on  the  right  leads  to  the 
Ananta  cave,  which  is  a  narrow  excava- 
tion, with  four  doorways  and  a  verandah 
with  pillars.  Instead  of  a  capital, 
these  have  a  projecting  bracket,  shaped 
like  a  woman .  The  architrave  is  heavy, 
and  over  it  is  a  parapet  supported  on 
corbels.  In  the  centre  of  the  back  wall 
of  the  cave  is  a  Buddha  in  bas-relief. 
The  frieze  is  in  five  compartments,  and 
represents  figures  running  with  trays 
of  oflferings,  athletes  fighting  with  bulls 
and  lions,  and  two  lines  of  geese  running 
with  spread  win^,  each  with  a  flower 
in  its  bill.  Notice  in  the  semicircular 
space  under  one  of  the  arches  a  nude 
female  standing  in  a  lotus-bush,  and 
holding  a  lotus-stalk  in  either  hand. 
Two  elephants  are  thromng  water  over 
her  with  their  trunks.  This  is  either 
Basuli,  an  aboriginal  goddess  men- 
tioned by  Mr.  Beames,  or  Lakshmi. 
In  the  back  wall  of  the  verandah  are 
two  inscriptions,  one  in  the  Lat  char- 
acter, and  the  other  in  the  Kutila. 

Now  turn  back  to  the  place  where 
the  path  divides  and  proceed  to  the  left 
to  a  modern  gallery,  and  to  the  S. 
to  a  range  of  three  openings.  There 
is  here  a  Sanscrit  inscription  of  the 
12th  century  in  Nagri,  which  says 
the  cave  belonged  to  Acharya  Kala- 
chandra,  and  his  pupil  Vellachandra. 
Next  comes  a  range  of  caves  facing  the 
E. ,  divided  into  two  compartments  by 
a  partition  in  the  middle.  On  the 
back  wall  is  a  row  of  seated  Dhyani 
Buddhas,  and  some  new  images  of 
Jinna    Deva.     At  the  E.    end  is  an 


altar  of  masonry,  on  which  are  ranged 
a  number  of  Jain  images.  The  second 
compartment  is  very  similar.  On  tlie 
back  wall  is  a  row  of  Dhyani  Buddhas, 
1  ft.  high,  and  below  females  seated 
on  stools,  some  four-handed,  others 
eight-handed,  with  one  leg  crossed 
and  the  other  hanging.  Below  aie 
lions  couchant. 

From  this  to  the  top  of  the  hill  is 
a  stilf  climb,  and  the  steps  in  one  place 
are  very  steep.  On  the  summit  of  tfce 
hill  is  a  plateau  and  an  18th  cent 
temple  to  Parasuath.  From  it  is  a 
magnificent  panoramic  view  15  ul  aH 
round.  The  groves  of  mango  and  jack 
trees  are  most  beautiful.  In  firont  of 
the  temple  is  a  fine  terrace,  50  ft  sq., 
with  a  raised  masonry  seat  all  round. 
To  the  S.  W.  of  the  temple  is  a  smooth 
terrace  of  150  ft.  diameter,  gently 
sloping  to  the  W.,  called  the  Deva 
Sabha.  In  the  centre  is  a  small  square 
pillar,  with  a  bas-relief  of  Buddha  on 
each  side,  and  round  it  four  circles  of 
Chaityas.  Three  small  boulders,  set 
in  a  triangle  and  covered  by  a  dolmen 
of  sandstone,  stand  in  the  inner  circle. 
E.  of  the  Deva  Sabha,  at  100  yds.,  is  a 
tank  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  called  the 
Akasha  Ganga,  or  "heavenly  Ganges." 
Immediately  below  the  tank  is  a  cave, 
where  the  remains  of  Rajah  Lelat  Indra 
Kesari  are  said  to  rest  Bfyendra  LaI 
Mitra  believes  the  whole  of  the  caves 
to  be  originally  Buddhist,  and  to  have 
been  constructed  from  340  to  320  B.C. 
He  sees  in  them  no  connection  with 
Greek  architecture  and  sculpture.] 

Cuttack,*  D.B.  (pop.  51,000),  is 
situated  at  the  apex  of  the  delta  of  the 
Mahanadi  river,  which  rises  in  the 
Raipur  district  of  the  Central  Provinces, 
and  has  a  length  of  529  m.  It  pours 
down  upon  the  delta  through  the  narrow 
gorge  of  Naraj,  7  m.  W.  of  the  town 
of  Cuttack,  and,  dividing  into  two 
streams,  encircles  the  city  on  the  N. 
and  E.,  and  on  the  W.  by  its  branch, 
called  the  Katjuri.  The  river  during 
the  rain  pours  down  a  prodigious  flood, 
and  to  prevent  its  sweeping  away  the 
city,  an  important  stone  embankment 
has  been  erected  on  the  spit  of  land  on 
which  the  city  has  been  ouilt 


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ROUTE  21.      OUTTACK 


289 


The  D.B.  is  in  the  middle  of  the 
Cantonments,  on  the  right  of  the  road 
ffoimg  down  to  the  fort.  About  one- 
nfth  of  a  mile  beyond  it  is  the  Parade* 
ground,  with  the  English  Church,  N., 
Eonan  Catholie  Chapel  and  Orphanage, 
W.,  and  Baptist  AJission,  S. 

Cuttack  is  the  capital  of  Orissa.  It 
was  founded  in  the  tenth  century  A.  p. 
by  one  of  the  kings  of  the  long-haired, 
or  lion,  dynasty.  Its  position  as  the 
key  of  the  Orissa  hill  territory,  and 
the  centre  of  the  network  of  the  Orissa 
canals,  ^vea  it  both  military  and 
oommercial  importance. 

It  is  famed  for  its  filigree  work  in 
gold,  and  silver. 

The  Fort  is  called  Fort  Barabati, 
and  is  in  ruins.  It  may  have  been 
built  in  the  14th  century^.  Stirling 
says  :  '*  The  square  sloping  bastions 
and  general  s^le  bespeak  a  Hindu 
origin."  M.  la  Motte,  who  travelled 
in  1767  A.D.,  thought  the  Fort  like 
the  W.  side  of  Windsor  Castle.  It 
was  taken  by  storm  by  the  British 
in  1803.  It  has  now  been  converted 
into  an  unsightly  series  of  earthen 
mounds ;  the  stones  of  the  moat  hav- 
ing been  taken  in  1873  to  build  an 
hospital,  and  those  of  Ihe  Fort  to  con- 
struct the  lighthouse  at  False  Point. 
The  only  objects  of  interest  which 
remain  are  the  crand  arched  Oatewayf 
flanked  by  two  lofty  square  towers,  in 
the  E.  face,  added  by  the  Mohammedan 
or  the  Maratha  governors  of  Orissa  in 
1750  A.D.,  as  mentioned  in  Persian  in- 
scriptions, and  the  Mosque  of  Fath  Ehan. 
In  the  Ain-i'Akbari  it  is  said  that 
there  was,  within  the  Fort,  the  famous 
palace  of  Riya  Mukund  Deo,  nine 
stories  high.  This  has  utterly  perished, 
but  from  the  ruins  have  been  dug  up 
fragments  of  cornices,  and  a  massive 
jandelabrum  of  fine  indurated  chlorite, 
rhe  top  of  the  ruined  citadel  is  100  ft. 
ibove  the  level  of  the  river. 

On  the  way  to  the  Fort,  before 
mtering  the  Cantonments,  dose  to  the 
jank  ofthe  TaUlanda  Canal,  is  a  garden 
Ljamed  after  Mr.  J.  Beames,  a  former 
loUector.  At  the  W.  extremity  is  a 
beautifully  carved  arch  9  ft.  high,  and 
several  carved  stones,  all  of  which  were 
wrought  from  Alti  by  Mr.  Beames.  On 
l^India'] 


the  side  pilasters  are  five  rows  of  orna- 
ments deserving  attention. 

After  crossing  the  bridj^  over  the 
canal,  the  Commissioner's  Cutcherry,  a 
hu^  building,  is  passed  on  the  right. 

The  stone  facing  of  the  Ka^ri  river 
was  made  by  the  Marathas.  The  bank 
is  in  places  25  ft  high,  and  is  faced  with 
fine  blocks  of  laterite  and  sandstone. 

JFeirs, — Near  Cuttack  are  import- 
ant weirs  for  regulating  the  flow  of  the 
rivers.  Two  of  these,  the  Birupa  and 
Mahanadi,  may  be  seen  in  quitting  the 
place.  The  traveller  can  drive  along 
a  road  a  little  to  the  N.  of  the  Taldanda 
Canal  to  the  Jobra  Ghat,  where  are 
the  Great  D.P.W.  workshops,  the  Mah- 
anadi Weir,  and  the  place  of  starting 
of  the  launches  for  Chandbali,  False 
Point,  and  Bhadrak.  The  Birupa  river 
leaves  the  Mahanadi  on  its  right  bank, 
and  the  weir  there  is  1980  ft.  long  and 
9  ft.  high.  Of  the  four  canals  which 
form  the  Orissa  Irrigation  System,  two 
take  oflf  from  the  Birupa  Weir,  and 
one  with  its  branch  from  the  Mahanadi 
Weir.  The  two  former  are  the  High 
Level  Canal  and  the  Kendrapara,  the 
latter  is  the  Taldanda.  The  Mahanadi 
Weir  is  6400  ft.  long  and  12^  ft.  high, 
and  cost  in  round  numbers  13  lakhs  of 
rs.  It  was  begun  in  1863  and  completed 
in  1869-70. 

Steamers,  etc. 

The  launches  of  three  companies 
leave  Cuttack  every  Wed.  conveying 
passengers  to  Chandbalt,  where  they  are 
transferred  to  sea-going  steamers  for 
Calcutta ;  every  Sat.  a  launch  leaves 
to  meet  a  sea-going  steamer  at  Awa, 
which  starts  for  Calcutta  on  Mon. ;  and 
twice  weekly  a  Govt,  launch  leaves  for 
Bhadrak,  travelling  by  the  High  Level 
Canal,— a  picturesque  journey. 

The  steamers  of  the  B.I.S.N.  Co. 
call  regularly  at  False  Point  on  their 
downward  journey  for  Madras  and 
coast  ports,  but  not  on  their  return 
journey  to  Calcutta.] 

[ChUtaek  ta  False  Poimt, 

A  steam  launch  runs  between  Cut- 
tack and  False   Point  in  connection 

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290 


ROUTE  21.   CALCUTTA  TO  PURI  AND  CUTTACK 


Iidia 


with  the  steamers  from  Calcutta  and 
Bombay  and  coast  |K>rt8.  The  distance 
between  Cuttack  and  False  Point  is 
64^  m. ;  of  this  54  m.  is  by  canal. 
The  journey  is  generally  performed  in 
24  hours.  Half  an  hour  after  leaving 
Cuttack  the  boat  will  pass  the  first 
lock,  and  enter  the  Eendrapara  Canal, 
which  is  here  about  80  feet  brDad.  It 
takes  about  6  hours  to  reach  the  place 
where  the  canal  bifurcates,  and  five 
locks  are  passed,  each  causing  a  delay 
of  7  to  10  minutes.  Whei-e  the  canal 
branches  into  two,  the  right  branch 
leads  to  Marsughat,  and  the  left  to 
Awa  for  Chandbali.  There  are  three 
more  locks  before  reaching  the  Jambu 
lock,  where  tidal  waters  are  reached 
about  6  m.  from  Hookeytolldh,  the 
great  station  for  False  Point  harbour. 
Since  the  calamitous  cyclone  of  1885, 
a  substantial  Refuge  House  has  been 
erected  at  Hookey tollah.] 


[Cuttack  to  Jaipur, 
The  stages  are  as  follows : — 
Names  of  Stations.  Miles. 

.     11 
.      10 


Oattack  to  Tanghi     . 
Tanghi  to  Barchana  . 
Barchana  to  Dbaramsala 
Dharamsala  to  JiOP^i^ 


14 


Total 


The  distance,  as  the  crow  flies,  is 
about  35  m.  Leaving  Cuttack  at  about 
5  P.M.,  you  will  be  able  to  cross  the 
Mahanadi  during  daylight,  and  proceed 
during  the  night  34  m.  up  the  Grand 
Trunk  Road,  passing  three  Inspection 
or  Dak  Bungalows,  at  Tanghi,  Barchana, 
and  Dharamsala,  where  the  palki  will 
cross  the  river  Brahmani  in  a  ferry- 
boat. 3  m.  farther  you  leave  the  Trunk 
Road  at  Kuakhia,  turning  rt  There 
is  a  short  cut  after  crossing  the  river, 
but  it  is  not  advisable  to  take  it.  Tlie 
road  then  proceeils  10  m.  to  the  E., 
crossing  eti  route  three  rivers  unbridged, 
but  fordable  in  the  cold  weather ;  and  at 
sunrise  you  reach 

Jajpur.  —  Yayati  Kesari,  coming 
from  Behar,  found  Jajpur  a  place  of 
im|X)rtauce,  and  made  it  his  capital  for 
a  time.     It  was  close  to  Dantapura, 


where  the  sacred  tooth  of  Buddha  iras 
kept,  and  in  the  4th  and  5th  centarr 
A.D.  it  was  called  the  navel  of  Bad- 
dhism.  Yayati  subdued  it,  and  con- 
verted the  sanctuaries  into  Hindu 
places  of  worship,  but  in  1558  EaltiM- 
bar,  a  famous  champion  of  Islam,  de- 
feated the  Hindus  in  a  great  battle  at 
Gahvara  Tekri,  4  m.  to  the  N.E.  of 
Jajpur.  It  is  believed  that  whole 
armies  are  buried  here.  Kalapthar 
demolished  all  the  Hindu  temples,  nd 
the  accumulated  treasures  of  art  of  lOOO 
years  were  lost  for  ever. 

Jajpur  (pop.  11,000)  is  situated  on 
the  S.  bank  of  the  Baitarani  river.  It 
was  the  capital  of  Orissa  until  the  llfli 
century,  when  it  was  superseded  bf 
Cuttack.  With  the  aid  of  a  palki,  er 
a  pony,  the  visits  can  see  all  that  is  H 
be  seen  at  Jig  pur  in  one  day.  Close 
to  the  D.B.  is  a  noble  Tnosqv^e,  buiU  bf 
Nawab  Abu  Nasvr  in  1681  a.d.  out  oC 
the  stones  of  Hindu  palacesand  temples. 
Adjoining  the  mosque  is  the  residence 
of  the  Magistrate,  in  whose  compound 
are  to  be  seen  three  monolithic  statues  of 
blue  chlorite.^  One  is  Indrani,  wife  of 
Indra,  the  air-god,  a  four-armed  goddess, 
with  an  admirably-cut  elephant  as  her 
footstool.  The  earth  goddess,  Varahini, 
the  wife  of  Vishnu  in  his  boar  incarna- 
tion, sits  with  her  infant  on  her  knee. 
The  most  striking  of  the  three  mono- 
liths represents  Chamunda,  the  wife  of 
the  All-Destroyer,  a  colossal  naked 
^Leleton,  with  the  skin  hanging  to  the 
bones,  and  the  veins  and  muscles 
standing  out  in  ghastly  fidelity.  These 
figures  are  finely  carved,  and  the  detaili 
of  the  ornaments  are  worth  observa- 
tion. A  temple  to  Vishnu,  in  his  boar 
incarnation,  crowns  a  flight  of  stain 
leading  up  from  the  river. 

In  a  gallery  overlooking  the  driei-vf 
bed  of  the  river  are  seven  idols,  elabor- 
ately  carved,  and  each  made  of  a  block 
of  chlorite  6  ft.  high.  Mr.  Jamei 
thinks  they  have  been  collected  from 
various  desecrated  shrines,  and  that 
some  pious  Hindu,  seeing  them  placed 

1  They  were  brought  from  the  Cenotaph  d 
Saiyad  'All  Bukhari,  a  Pathan  saint,  who  ac- 
companied Kalap^ar,  and  when  his  head  was 
cut  uir,  at  the  siege  of  Barahati,  rode  withoot 
it  to  Jajpar,  and  was  buried  there. 


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ROUTE  21.      JAJPUR 


291 


against  a  wall,  erected  a  vaulted  roof 
over  them,  and  a  wall  in  fiont.  Six 
of  thein  are  goddesses  with  four  arms 
each,  the  seventh  is  Naraing.  Tlie 
first  goddess  is  Kali,  or  Chamunda, 
tTBadiugon  her  husband  Shiva.  The 
next  is  the  wife  of  Yama,  or  "  Death," 
with  a  swine's  head ;  at  her  feet  is  a 
buffalo.  Next  is  the  wife  of  Indra ;  an 
elephant  serves  her  as  footstool.  Lakh- 
shmi  comes  next ;  with  two  hands  she 
hohisa  child,  in  a  third  Vishnu's  Wheel, 
and  in  her  fourth  a  shell.  Beneath 
ier  feet  is  Garuda.  Next  is  a  naked 
emaciated  old  hag,  the  Mother  of  Death, 
Squatting  down.  Below  her  are  two 
votaries,  and  between  them  three  kinds 
of  beUs— the  bell  of  Yama,  that  of  Kali, 
and  that  of  Vishnu.  Savitri,  the  wife 
of  Brahma,  comes  next  Parbati  comes 
next,  with  a  bull  at  her  feet.  Below 
Narsing  are  two  groups  o'f  worshippers 
and  female  attendants  waving  the 
chauris. 

Close  to  the  gallery  is  a  temple  con- 
taining a  large  image  of  Ganpati. 
Opposite  the  gallery,  in  a  wooded 
island  in  the  middle  of  the  river,  is  the 
second  great  temple,  dedicated  to  the 
boar  incarnation,  and  groups  of  smaller 
temples.  Beside  the  main  flight  of 
steps  which  lead  up  from  the  river  are 
two  roofless  temples,  over  the  gate  of 
which  is  an  effigy  of  the  Sun  driving 
sk  horses,  and  a  bull  in  the  midst. 

S.  about  IJ  m.  along  the  Bingapur 
high  road,  tuni  1.  to  the  most  beautiful 
object  in  Jajpur— the  Oarvda  Pillar, 
32  ft.  high  ;  the  base  is  6  ft.  5  in. 
bij^h,  Sijuare,  and  composed  of  large 
blocks  of  stone  without  any  ornament, 
riie  shaft  and  capital  are  26  ft.  7  in. 
bigh,  and  appear  to  be  a  monolith.^  The 
capital,  of  exquisite  proportion,  is  carved 
to  imitate  lotus  blossoms,  and  adorned 
5elow  with  lions*  heads,  from  whose 
nouths  depend  strings  of  roses  or  beads. 
The  capital  once  was  crowned  with  a 
igure  of  Garuda.  The  Garuda  is  said  to 
lave  been  hurled  from  the  summit  of  the 
riUar  by  the  Mohammedans,  who  at- 
empted  also  to  destroy  the  pillar  itself. 

1  The  six-sided  shaft  is  about  17  ft.  7  in. 
ligh  and  is  in  one  piece  with  an  octagonal 
>Bae  on  a  sqnare,  the  whole  being  about  19  ft. 

in.  over  ak. 


The  Garuda,  or  a  fac-simile  of  it,  now 
stands  in  the  ante-chamber  of  a  small 
temple  of  Narsing,  in  Madhupur,  a 
village  about  1  ra.  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
temple  of  Jagannath  at  Jajpur.  It  is 
a  fine  piece  of  sculpture  4  ft.  high, 
carved  out  of  black  chlorite,  and  repre- 
sents a  human  figure  resting  on  one 
knee,  the  palms  of  the  hands  pressed 
together  in  an  attitude  of  devotion. 
Short  wings  are  attached  to  the 
shoulders,  and  while  the  hair  of  the 
fore  part  of  the  head  is  dressed  in  the 
shape  of  a  mitre,  the  back  part  of  the 
head  is  covered  with  a  profusion  of 
curls.  The  face  and  attitude  are 
majestic,  but  the  nose  is  lengthened  to 
imitate  a  bird's  beak.  It  rests  on  a 
pedestal  which  is  an  exact  duplicate 
of  the  capital  and  upper  shaft  of  the 
pillar. 

Return  now  to  the  Bingapur  road, 
and  proceed  to  the  Ma^atha  Bridge,  a 
fine  specimen  of  architecture.  It  is  not 
so  large  as  the  bridge  of  the  same  name 
at  Puri,  but  has  twelve  horizontal 
arches,  and  is  built  in  precisely  the 
same  fashion.  It  appears  to  be  of 
extreme  antiquity,  and  has  been  re- 
paired with  fragments  of  carvings  in 
relief  taken  from  temples.  It  also  goes 
by  the  name  of  the  Devidwar,  lit. 
"  Goddess-door  Bridge,"  from  its  prox- 
imity to 

The  Temple  of  Biraja,  "the  Passion- 
less One,"  500  yds.  farther  on  through 
beautiful  groves  of  palms  and  mango 
trees,  and  Opposite  the  Brahma  Kund, 
a  tank  faced  with  stone.  Hindus  alone 
are  admitted  to  the  temple,  but  through 
the  breaches  in  the  enclosure  can  be 
seen  the  Hall  of  Audience  and  the  tall 
spire.  There  are  some  Curious  sculp- 
tures let  into  the  wall  at  the  portico. 

Regain  the  highway,  and  a  little  be- 
yond the  second  milestone,  200  yds. 
from  the  road,  on  the  left-hand  side,  is  the 
Temple  of  Trilochan,  or  the  three-eyed 
god,  i.e.  Shiva.  The  base  of  the  original 
tower,  which  is  now  about  60  ft.  high, 
has  survived  the  general  ruin,  and  for  a 
height  of  about  14  ft.  from  the  ground 
still  stands,  richly  carved  as  of  yore, 
giving  some  idea  of  the  past  glories  of 
Jajpur.  The  rest  of  the  building  is 
covered  with  stucco. 

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292 


ROUTE  22.       POONA  TO  GOA 


India 


Between  the  Temple  of  Trilochau 
and  the  road,  in  an  underground  cham- 
ber»  is  a  very  holy  and  frightful  image 
of  Kali  with  eighteen  arms.  In  a  templo 
on  the  other  side  of  the  road  are  some 
fine  sculptures.  A  pipul  tree  growing 
on  the  top  of  the  spire  of  this  temple 
has  gradually  forced  its  roots  to  the 
very  bottom,  and  is  slowly  rending  it 
asunder. 

Jajpur  formerly  stood  on  the  main 
road  to  Puri,  and  the  pilgrims  to  Ja- 
gannath  used  regularly  to  resort  to  it, 
but  the  sanctity  of  the  place  has  much 
diminished.  It  is,  however,  worthy  of 
inspection  b^r  all  who  take  an  interest 
in  Hindu  antiquities.  Many  fragments 
of  halls  and  temples,  all  buiit  of  one  cut 
stone,  are  to  be  found  in  the  town.  A 
nautch  at  this  place  is  very  different 
from  the  dull,  stupid  ceremony  which 
passes  under  that  name  at  Calcutta 
and  in  the  rest  of  India.  The  ancient 
palace  at  Jajpur  was  destroyed  by  the 
officers  of  the  English  Public  Works 
Department,  who  built  biidges  along 
the  Trunk  Road  with  the  stones.  At 
1^  m.  to  the  E.  of  Jajpur  a  colossal 
figure  of  Padmapani  was  du^  up  ;  the 
feet  are  lost,  but  the  total  height  must 
have  been  about  17  ft.  6  in.  This  figure 
is  now  called  Shanta  Madhava :  it  has 
been  removed  to  the  Magistrate's  com- 
pound. 

Should  the  traveller  prefer  it,  he 
ma^  return  to  Calcutta  via  Balasore ; 
which  is  only  66  m.  in  a  direct  line 
from  Jajpur  to  Chandbali(45  m.),  from 
which  steamers  run  every  week.] 

Balasore,  B.  B.  This  place  was  once 
of  great  commercial  importance,  and  the 
Dutch,  and  the  Danes  also,  had  a  factory 
here.  The  French  still  possess  a  small 
territory  of  some  100  acres  at  Balasore  ; 
where  the  (swinging)  Churruck  Pnja, 
long  stopped  throughout  British  India, 
is  annually  celebrated. 


ROUTE  22 

PoONA  TO  MaHABALESHWAK, 
KOLHAPUB,  BSLOAUM,  AND  GOA 

Poona  (see  p.  825),  the  Sonthen 
Maratha  Railway  branches  S.  from  the 
O.I. P.  2  m.  £.  of  the  station.  Pasnng 
through  three  hill  ranges,  reaches 

68  m.  Waihar  sta.  t^  (R.) 

[Passengers  leave  the  train  here  for 
Mahabaleshwar,  the  principal  hill- 
station  of  the  Bombay  Presidcny, 
about  40  m.  distant  by  road  to  the  W. 

Carria^  and  tongas  can  be  hadit 
Wathar  by  giving  notice  to  the  miil 
contractor  at  Mahabaleshwar.  Itisi 
charming  drive  of  about  5  hrs.;  thi 
first  part  through  rolling  country  to 

18    m.  Wai,    D.B.    (pop.    12,000), 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  rustic  towns 
in  the  Deccan.     It  is  situated  on  the 
left  bank  of 'the  Krishna,   which  ii 
lined  with  beautiful  pipul  and  mango 
trees,  and  with  handsome   flifi^hts  of 
stone  steps.     Behind  the  city  rise  hills 
of  all  the  shapes  which  are  peculiar  to 
the  mountains  in  the  Deccan.     There 
are  round,  peaked,  flat-topped  hills; 
some  covered  with  rocks  looking  at  a 
distance,  like  forts  and  castles.     One 
hill  near  the  city  rises  very  abruptly, 
aud  has  a  hill-fort  on  the  top.    It  is 
called  Pandugarh.    The  nearest  tempk 
to  the  D.  B. — and  the  river  is  lined  witk 
beautiful  temples — is  dedicated  to  Gan- 
pati;  the  next  to  Mahadeo'f  and  one, 
at  some  distance,  to  Lakshmi,    Thej 
form  the  great  beauty  of  this  most 
picturesc^ue  spot.     The  mandapamt  or 
canopy,  in  front  of  Mahadeo*s  tempk 
is  very  light,  and  a  fine  specimen  of ^ 
carving  in  stone.     The  Rastia  finmil; 
have  an  excellent  mansion  at  no  grea 
distance  from  the  town,  called  the  Mot 
Bagh,  or  "Pearl  garden."     The  TOfu 
thither  is  beautifully  shaded  by  splendi 
bamboos,  mangoes,  and  tamarinds.    Th 
house  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  Moham 
medan  style,    it  is  open  on  one  sid 
from  top  to  bottom,  and  shaded  b 
huge  curtains.    Wai  is  a  spot  mac 
famed  in  Hindu  legend.    Here,  accord 
ing  to  old  tradition,  the  Pandas  spei^ 
part  of  their  banishment,  and  perforiod 
many  wonderful  works.     On  this  ae 
count,  as  because  of  its  proximity  to  tin 

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ROUTE  22.      PANCHGANNI — MAHABALESHWAR 


293 


Krislma  river  so  near  its  source,  "Wai  is 
mved  as  a  place  of  creat  sanctity ;  and 
there  is  a  college  of  Brahmans  estab- 
lished at  it,  once  in  much  repute. 

About  5  m.  from  Wai  up  the  Krishna 
is  the  village  of  Dom,  where  is  a  very 
handsome  temple,  with  a  gigantic  basin 
in  the  middle  of  the  court  of  white 
marble,  the  edges  carved  with  lotus 
leaves.  There  is  also  a  pillar  about  5 
ft.  high,  having  five  heads  of  Shiva  on 
the  top,  with  cobras  twisting  round 
them,  all  in  white  marble. 

The  most  curious  thing  to  be  seen 
near  Wai  is  a  gigantic  Banyan  Tree,  at 
the  foot  of  a  mountain  called  Wairat- 
garh,  about  8  m.  from  Wai.  The  exact 
area  shaded  by  it  is  three-quarters  of 
an  acre.  The  space  covered  is  a  very 
symmetrical  oval.  There  is  no  brush- 
wood underneath,  nor  aught  to  im- 
pede the  view  save  the  stems  of  the 
shoots  from  the  parent  tree.  On  leav- 
ing Wai  the  road  begins  a  steep 
ascent 

29  m.  Panchganni,  a  very  large 
nllage,  containing  many  bungalows 
belonging  to  Europeans,  with  nice 
plantations  about  them.  In  fact,  many 
visitors  who  come  to  the  hOls  prefer 
to  stop  at  Panchganni  rather  than 
Mahaoaleshwar,  because  the  rainfall  is 
less,  and  the  place  can  be  made  a  per- 
manent residence.  From  Panchganni 
the  road  descends  a  little  for  one-third 
of  a  mile.  The  country  round  is  covered 
with  low  jungle  and  patches  of  culti- 
vation. 

About  1  m.  from  Mahabaleshwar  vil- 
lage, the  small  lake  made  by  the  Rajah 
of  Satara  is  passed  on  the  right ;  it 
winds  picturesquely,  and  is  about  810 
yds.  long,  and  not  quite  200  yds.  broad. 

40  m.  Mahabaleshwar  ^0^  is  a  lofty 
tableland,  7  m.  lone  by  about  3  m. 
wide,  bounded  on  the  W.  by  abrupt 
precipices,  covered  with  foliage  except 
where  bold  rocks,  called  "points,"  break 
through.  These  hills  are  in  N.  lat. 
17°  56',  E.  long.  73°  30' :  their  general 
elevation  is  4500  ft.  above  the  sea,  from 
which  they  are  only  26  m.  due  E.  A 
1«W  part  of  the  surface  of  the  hills  is 
iBdurated  iron-clay  or  laterite,  which 
oTwlies  basalt  and  other  members  of 
the  secondary   trap -formation.      The 


Fteris  aquilinxif  or  common  brake, 
grows  veiy  plentifully  on  the  hills,  as 
do  the  willow,  the  Eugenia  jambos  and 
Gardenia  montana.  There  are  a  few 
oaks.  The  Tetranthera  and  Cortilania 
flower  in  November,  also  the  Anjun, 
or  iron-wood.  There  are  30  species  of 
ferns,  of  which  the  principal  are  the 
Acrostichum  aureum,  the  Actiniopteris 
radiata,  the  Adiantum  laudaium, 
the  Aspidium  cochleatum,  the  Asple- 
nium  erectum  and  falcatum,  the  Pteris 
Iticida  and  quadriaurita.  The  geo- 
graphical position  of  this  range  secures 
to  it  a  redundant  supply  of  moisture 
during  the  S.  W.  monsoon,  and  has  ren- 
dered it  a  fruitful  parent  of  the  rivers 
that  fertilise  the  Deccan.  To  the  site 
of  the  temple  of  Mahadeo  at  Maha- 
baleshwar village,  mentioned  below, 
Brahmans  assign  the  honour  of  giving 
birth  to  the  Krishna  and  four  other 
streams. 

Mahabaleshwar  is  a  favourite  resort 
of  the  people  of  Bombay  in  the  hot 
weather,  and  a  Government  sanitarium 
with  eight  sets  of  quarters.  Rooms 
for  one  person  are  charged  at  the  rate 
of  40  rs.  per  month. 

The  centre  of  the  European  quarter 
was  called  Malcolm  Peth  oy  the  Rajah 
of  Satara  in  honour  of  Sir  John  Mal- 
colm, who  resided  much  on  these  hills 
when  governor  ;  it  contains  a  Library, 
Club,  Church,  Sir  Sydney  Beckwith's 
Monument,  and  a  Cemetery, 

The  village  of  Mahabaleshwar  (see 
below)  is  3  m.  to  the  N.  of  Malcolm 
Peth. 

Climate. — The  annual  mean  tempera- 
ture of  Malcolm  Peth  is  65°  F.  During 
the  monsoon,  from  middle  of  June  to 
end  of  September,  it  is  uninhabitable 
on  account  of  the  rains,  and  so  eauable 
is  the  climate  during  that  period,  and 
indeed  until  February,  that  the  mean 
heat  of  any  month  does  not  differ  4°, 
and  for  more  than  half  the  time  not 
2°  from  the  annual  mean ;  whilst  the 
mean  of  the  hottest  month  only  exceeds 
it  by  7J*.  The  average  daily  range  of 
the  thermometer  in  the  open  air 
throughout  the  year  is  only  8°.  The 
season  for  visiting  the  hills  commences 
in  the  beginning  of  October.  The  at- 
mosphere is  then  stilLyery  moist,  but 

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hdk 


in  general  clear  and  fair  during  the 
day,  with  gentle  showers  in  the  evening. 
By  these  and  the  prevailing  light  K. 
winds  the  air  is  delightfully  cooled,  the 
mean  temperature  ranging  below  66**. 

Amongst  the  sights  to  see  near  Ma- 
habaleshwar  are  the  Falls  of  the  Yena, 
at  the  head  of  a  wild  mountain  gorge 
of  that  name  on  the  right  of  the  road 
to  the  Tai  Ghat,  and  reached  by  a  by- 
path from  a  point  on  the  Satara  Road. 
The  stream  is  here  precipitated  over 
the  face  of  a  steep  cliff  with  a  sheer 
descent  of  600  ft.,  unbroken  when  the 
torrent  is  swollen  by  rain,  but  ordinarily 
divided  by  projecting  rocks  about  one- 
third  of  the  way  down,  and  scattered 
below  into  thin  white  streaks  and  spray, 
which  are  often  circled  by  rainbows 
from  the  oblique  rays  of  the  sun. 

Lodwick  Point  shouM  be  visited, 
passing  through  the  village  of  Malcolm 
Peth.  At  about  J  m.  before  reaching 
the  monument  to  General  Lodwick  the 
carriage  stops,  and  the  rest  of  the  way 
must  be  done  on  foot  or  on  a  pony. 
The  column  is  about  25  ft.  high.  The 
spot  commands  a  noble  view  over 
Pratapgarh  to  the  W.  and  Makrangarh 
to  the  S.W. 

On  the  right  of  the  road,  and  on  the 
way  to  Elphinstone  Point,  is  the  ancient 
village  of  MahabcUeshwar.  1 1  is  a  small 
place,  but  of  great  sanctity  in  the  eyes 
of  the  Hindus,  as  being  the  spot  where 
the  Krishna  and  four  other  rivers  have 
their  source.  There  are  several  temples, 
one  very  old,  of  black  stone,  said  to 
have  been  built  by  a  Gauli  Raja. 
Another  built  by  the  same  chief,  and 
called  Koteshwar,  commands  a  grand 
view  over  the  Wai  valley.  The  prin- 
cipal temple,  however,  is  called  Maha- 
baleshwar. 

Elphinstone  Point  is  the  grandest  of 
all  the  precipitous  scarps  which  over- 
hang the  low  country.  This  is  about 
4  m.  by  a  good  road  to  the  W.  of  Ma- 
habaleshwar  Temple.  There  is  a  sheer 
descent  of  above  2000  ft.,  though  not 
so  steep  at  the  summit  but  that  wild 
bison  have  been  seen  to  gallop  down 
some  part.  A  rock  rolled  from  the 
top  thunders  down  and  crashes  into 
the  forests  below.  The  view  extends 
to  the  mountains,  among  which  is  the 


hill -fort  of  Torna,  over  an  apparently 
nninhabited  jungle.  To  the  right  of 
the  Point  is  Arthur's  Seat,  another 
fine  view  which  must  by  no  meaus  be 
omitted.  It  has  its  name  from  Mr. 
Arthur  Malet,  C.S.,  who  first  built  a 
house  here. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  Pratabgirh, 
a  picturesque  hill-fort  crowning  a  pre- 
cipitous rock,  remarkable  as  the  stroDg- 
hold  of  Shivaji,  and  as  the  scene  of  one 
of  the  most  remarkable  events  in 
Indian  history,  the  founding  of  the 
Maratha  empire.  A  channing  dme 
of  6  m.  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  hills, 
whence  a  steep  and  difficult  path  ascends 
to  the  gates  of  the  fortress.  Shivap, 
the  robber,  in  1656  having  provoked 
hostilities  with  Bijapur,  whose  armyb 
could  not  meet  in  the  open,  dettrrainei 
to  overcome  its  general,  Afzal  Khan, 
by  stratagem,  and  pretending  to  be  ii 
a  state  of  great  alarm  at  the  approach 
of  the  Bijapur  army  to  besiege  Partah- 
garh,  offered  to  make  his  submission 
to  Afzal  Khan  at  a  personal  iutemew, 
on  condition  that  the  two  commanders 
should  meet  unarmed,  in  the  miilst, 
between  the  two  armies  with  only  one 
armed  attendant.  They  acconlinglf 
approached  from  either  side,  attired, 
to  all  appearance,  in  white  muslin 
robes,  but  Shivaji  wore  under  his  rohe 
and  turban  a  coat  of  mail,  and  carried 
concealed  in  one  hand  a  cruel  instrn- 
ment  called  **the  tiger's  claws,"  con- 
sisting of  sharp  steel  hooks  attached 
by  rings  to  his  fingers.  In  the  veiT 
act  of  embracing  in  an  attitude  a 
abject  humility,  Shivaji  stuck  his  elavs 
into  the  Khan,  tore  out  his  vitala,  and 
despatched  him  with  a  hidden  dagg;er. 
His  head  was  struck  off  and  bnried 
under  the  old  tower  in  the  Fort,  dot 
fallen  to  ruin.  Meanwhile  the  Marathi 
army,  which  had  been  concealed  in 
ambush  in  the  jungle,  rushed  out  upoa 
the  Bijapur  forces,  dispersed  them,  and 
cut  them  to  pieces.] 

Returning  to  Wathar  sta.  the  Hk 
proceeds  to 

77  m.  Satara  Road  sta.  From  hen 
it  is  a  10  m.  drive  by  tonga  or  carria* 
to  Satara.  Satara,  D.B.  (pop.  25,000), 
is  situated  in  a  hollow  between  tw» 
ranges  of  hills,  which  rise  above  it  on 

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ROtTB  22.      SAHARA 


295 


the  E.  and  W.,  and  partly  overlap  it 
on  the  a  The  hill  on  the  W.  is  the 
tennination  of  a  spur  from  the  Maha- 
baleshwar  Hills.  From  this  hill  to  the 
city  there  is  an  aqueduct  4  m.  long, 
and  there  are  also  two  tine  tanks.  The 
city  htis  many  historic  recollections, 
and  the  station  is  one  of  the  most  salu- 
brious and  pleasant  in  the  Deccan, 
being  close  to  the  foot  of  the  Alalia- 
bileshwar  Hills.  The  Ccmtonmeni  is 
about  1^  m.  from  N.  to  S.,  and  neaily 
the  same  from  E.  to  W.  In  the  S.  end 
is  the  Residency  compound.  Outside 
the  N.  gate  of  the  Residency  are  linen 
for  the  European  soldiers,  and  the  native 
liues  and  Sadr  baziiar  to  the  N.  of  them. 
St.  ThoTtias's  Churchy  700  yds.  W.  of 
the  native  lines,  was  open^  in  1850. 
At  the  E.  end  is  a  handsome  stained 
glass  window,  and  here  also  is  a  car\-ed 
screen  and  roof  of  teak,  and  a  pulpit 
of  polished  gray  stone.  J  m.  W.  of 
the  English  bamicks  is  a  large  tree 
with  a  stone  bench  round  it,  ascended 
by  steps.  It  has  an  interesting  inscrip- 
tion to  the  memory  of  his  late  High- 
ness Shahji  Raja,  of  Satara,  and  of 
H.  B.  E.  Frere,  Esq.,  once  British 
Commissioner  of  Satara.  The  New 
Cemetery  is  J  m.  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
European  barracks,  und  is  planted  with 
flowers  and  cypresses  ana  other  fine 
trees.  The  road  from  the  Old  Cemetery 
leads  W.  through  a  bazaar  for  about  i 
m.  and  past  the  Jumma  Musjid  on  the 
left  to 

The  New  Palace^  built  by  Apa  Sahib, 
near  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  ad- 
joinmg  the  Old  Palace.  On  the  facade 
are  a  number  of  mythological  pictures, 
much  defaced  by  tne  weather.  On  the 
N.  aide  of  the  court  is  a  vast  hall,  one 
of  the  largest  in  India.  In  the  front 
court  are  the  oflBces  of  the  collector 
and  his  assistants,  and  W.  of  the  hall 
are  those  of  the  judge.  The  roof  is 
sapported  by  sixty-four  teak  pillars, 
besides  four  in  front  The  Old  Palace 
is  very  shabby,  and  quite  deserted. 
About  200  yds.  beyond  this  is  a  pretty 
garden  and  villa  belonging  to  Kajah 
Ram,  who  was  adopted  by  the  late 
Ram.  He  is  in  possession  of  the  crown 
jewels  of  the  Satara  family,  and  of 
Jai  Bhawani,   the   famous   sword  of 


Shivaji,  and  his  other  arms.  The 
sword  is  3  ft.  9  in.  long  in  the  blade, 
and  the  handle  is  8  in.  long,  but  so 
smull  that  a  European  can  hardly  get 
his  hand  into  it.  Like  most  of  the 
famous  blades  in  India,  it  is  of  Euro- 
pean make,  and  has  the  stamp  of  Genoa. 
The  fFaghnakhj  or  "  tig«r*8  claw,"  with 
which  Shivaji  woumled  Afzal  Khan, 
consists  of  four  steel  claws,  with  rings 
which  pass  over  the  first  and  fourth 
fingers,  but  are  too  small  for  a  European 
hand.  The  shield  is  of  rhinoceros  hide, 
and  has  four  Htars  or  bosses  of  diamonds. 
The  gold  casket  for  holding  Shivaji's 
seal  is  ornamented  with  diamonds, 
rubies,  pearls,  and  emeralds,  and  there 
is  an  inkstand  and  penholder  of  gold 
similarly  begemmed.  The  quilted  coat 
which  Shivaji  wore  when  he  murdered 
Afzal  Khan  may  also  be  seen.  It  is 
lined  with  chain  armour,  which  is 
hidden  by  thick  masses  of  ptidding  and 
silk,  embroidered  with  gold.  It  is 
very  heavy.  The  dagger  is  very  hand- 
some, and  is  18  in.  long.  The  dia- 
monds, emeralds,  and  rubies  in  the 
handle  are  very  fine. 

The  gate  of  the  Fort  is  on  the  N. 
side,  and  a  very  steep  zigzag  path  leads 
up  to  it  The  ascent  lies  at  first  along 
the  foot  of  a  ridge.  After  J  m.  or  so, 
the  ridge  is  crossed,  and  the  path  pro- 
ceeds along  the  brink  of  a  precipice 
which  looks  utterly  impracticable.  The 
gate  is  of  stone,  and  very  strongly 
built,  with  buttresses  40  ft  high. 
The  interior  of  the  Fort  is  now  nearly 
desolate.  There  are  only  a  few  bunga- 
lows, with  one  small  pagoda,  and  an 
hospitaL  The  Fort  is  said  to  have 
been  built  by  a  Raja  of  Panhala,  who 
reigned  in  1192.^  By  him,  too,  were 
erected  the  forts  of  Hairatgarh  and  Pan- 
dugarh,  near  Wai,  and  Chandan  and 
Wandan,  near  Satara.  Long  before 
the  time  of  the  'Adil  Shahi  dynasty  at 
Bijapur,  the  fort  of  Satara  was  usea  as 
a  state  prison,  and  Shivaji,  who  cap- 
tured it  in  1673,  after  a  siege  of  several 
months,  unwittingly  fumi»ied  for  his 
descendants  a  prison  in  which  they 
were  for  years  confined.  In  1698,  at 
the  suggestion  of  Ramchandra  Pant, 
Satara  was  made  the  capital  of  the 
1  Grant  Duff,  vol.  L  p.  260. 


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ROUTE  22.    pooifA  iro  aoA 


India 


Maratha  Government.  Next  year  Anr- 
angzib  with  a  great  army  arrived  be- 
fore the  city  and  pitched  'his  tents  on 
the  N.  side.  'Azim  Shah  was  on  the 
W.  side,  at  a  village  since  called  Shah- 
pur.  Shirzi  Khan  invested  the  S.,  and 
Tarbiyat  Khan  occupied  the  E.  (quarter. 
Chains  of  posts  between  the  different 
camps  effectually  secured  the  blockade. 
The  Fort  was  defended  by  Pryagji 
Prabhu,  hawaldar,  who  had  been  reared 
in  the  service  of  Shivaji.  As  the  Moguls 
advanced,  he  withdrew  into  the  Fort,  and 
rolled  down  huge  stones  from  the  rock 
above,  which  did  great  execution.  The 
blockade,  however,  was  complete,  all 
communications  were  cut  off,  provisions 
were  exhausted,  and  the  besieged  mu&t 
have  been  compelled  to  surrender  had 
not  Parshuram  Trimbak,  who  had 
thrown  himself  into  the  Fort  of  Prali, 
purchased  the  connivance  of  'Azim 
Shah,  and  conveyed  stores  to  the  be- 
sieged. The  grand  attack  was  directed 
against  the  IS.E.  angle,  which  is  one 
of  the  strongest  points,  the  rock  being 
42  ft.  high,  with  a  bastion  on  the  top 
of  26  ft.  of  masonry.  Tarbiyat  Khan 
undertook  to  mine  this  angle,  and  at 
the  end  of  four  and  a  half  months  had 
completed  two  mines.  The  storming 
party,  confident  of  success,  was  formed 
under  the  brow  of  the  hilL  Aurangzib 
moved  out  in  grand  procession  to  view 
the  attack,  and  the  garrison,  and  among 
them  Pryagji,  attracted  by  the  splen- 
dour of  his  retinue,  crowded  to  the 
rampart.  The  first  mine  burst  several 
fissures  in  the  rock,  caused  a  great 
part  of  the  masonry  to  fall  inwards 
and  crush  many  of  the  garrison  to 
death ;  but  the  second  and  larger 
mine  burst  outwards  with  a  terrible 
explosion,  and  destroyed  upwards  of 
2000  of  the  besiegers.  Pryagji  was 
buried  by  the  first  explosion  close  to  a 
temple  to  Bhavani,  but  was  dug  out 
alive.  This  was  regarded  by  the  Ma- 
rathas  as  a  happy  omen,  and,  animated 
by  it,  the  gamson  would  have  made 
a  prolonged  and  desperate  defence, 
but  provisions  fell  shoi-t,  and  'Azim 
Shah  would  no  longer  connive  at  their 
introduction.  Proposals  of  surrender 
were  therefore  made  through  him,  and 
the  honour  of  the  capture,  which  he  so 


ill  merited,  was  not  only  assigned  to 
him,  but  the  very  name  of  the  place,  in 
compliment  to  him,  was  changed  by 
the  Emperor  to  'Azim  Tara. 

In  1705  the  Fort  was  retaken  by  the 
Marathas,  through  the  artifice  of  a 
Brahman  named  Anaji  Pant.  He  in- 
gratiated himself  with  the  Moguls 
under  the  character  of  a  mendietnt 
devotee,  amusing  them  with  stories 
and  songs,  and,  being  allowed  to  reside 
in  the  Fort,  introduced  a  body  of 
Mawalis,  and  put  every  man  of  tie 
garrison  to  the  sword.  Satara  sur- 
rendered to  the  £n(.li)h  in  1818,  and 
Pratap  Sing,  eldest  son  of  Sahu  11^ 
was  install^  as  Raja.  He  held  tlie 
principality  twenty-one  years,  and  w» 
sent  prisoner  to  Benares  in  1839,  being 
succeeded  by  his  brother,  Apa  Sahib, 
on  whose  death,  in  1848,  the  territor; 
was  annexed. 

The  view  from  the  Fort  is  very  beauti- 
ful, over  hills  rising  in  every  direction, 
of  varied  form,  and  some  crowned  with 
old  forts  now  crumbling  to  decay  ;  on 
a  wide  plain,  opening  out  from  the 
town,  are  the  CantonmerUt  the  Resideneyt 
with  its  fine  garden,  and  beyond,  many 
gardens  and  groves.  Through  tiiis 
plain  runs  a  broad  excellent  road, 
shaded  by  an  aveAue  of  trees  to  the 
Sangam,  or  junction  of  the  rivers 
Krishna  and  Yena  at  the  beautiful 
village  of  Mahuli. 

There  are  many  beautiful  rides  at 
Satara,  and  gooa  sport  to  be  had. 
Quail  are  plentiful  and  fiorictm  may 
sometimes  be  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood. Foxes  are  numerous,  and  are 
coursed  with  greyhounds,  affording 
excellent  sport.  Bears,  panthers,  and 
cheetahs  may  occasionally  be  found. 

Hahuli. — This  pretty  place,  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Krishna  and  Vena 
rivers,  is  about  8  m.  £.  of  Satara,  and 
thoroughly  deserves  a  visit  It  is  con- 
sidered a  place  of  great  sanctity,  and 
the  dead  from  Satara  and  the  surround- 
ing villages  are  brought  there  for  crema- 
tion. Descending  the  river,  the  first 
temple  is  Kshetra  MakfUi,  bnilt  in 
1825  and  dedicated  to  Radha  Shankar. 
The  temple  is  of  basalt,  and  consists  of 
a  shrine  and  verandah,  supported  by 
three  small  scalloped  arches ;  the  dome 


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is  of  brick,  and  conical,  but  broken  up 
into  gradually -diminishing  rows  of 
stucco  ornamentation,  in  which  are 
niches  filled  with  images.  On  the 
same  side  of  the  river  is  the  temple  of 
BhoUshtoar  MahadeOf  built  in  1742. 
The  next  temple  is  on  the  same  bank, 
dedicated  to  Kameshwar,  and  was  built 
in  1700  A.D.  Looking  from  the  oppo- 
lite  bank,  one  is  struck  with  the  very 
fine  flight  of  steps  leading  up  to  it  from 
the  river-bed.  Close  to  the  junction 
of  the  rivers,  on  the  W.  bank  of  the 
Krishna  and  the  N.  of  the  Yena,  is  the 
Temple  of  Sangameshwar  Mahadeo. 
Two  flights  of  steps  lead  from  the  bank 
of  the  Krishna  to  a  door  in  the  wall  of 
the  temple  court.  In  front  is  the  sacred 
bull  under  a  canopy,  supported  by  four 
mllars.  The  architecture  is  pure  Hindu. 
This  temple  was  built  in  1679.  Below 
it  and  at  the  junction  of  the  rivers  is  a 
triangular  plot  of  ground,  with  the 
tombs  of  the  Gusain  named  Banshapwrij 
and  his  disciples.  That  of  the  Gusain 
is  an  octagonal  building  of  gray  basalt, 
with  open  sides  surmounted  by  a  low 
dome.  The  largest  of  the  temples  is 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Yena,  at  its  con- 
fluence with  the  Krishna.  It  is  sacred 
to  Vishveshvar  Mahadeo,  and  was  built 
in  1735  A.D.  It  is  of  basalt,  and  en- 
closed by  an  irregular-shaped  court- 
yard open  on  the  side  of  the  river,  from 
which  it  is  approached  by  steps.  It  is 
a  building  of  pure  Hindu  architecture. 
The  animal  forms  carved  in  the  capi- 
tals of  the  pillars  and  the  cornices 
deserve  notice. 

There  are  besides  these  a  great  num- 
ber of  other  temples.  In  one  observe 
a  statue  of  a  dog  sitting,  which  marks 
the  burial-place  of  a  favourite  black 
greyhound  of  Raja  Sahu,  called  Veda- 
raja,  or  **  Mad  Kin^."  This  dog  saved 
the  Rajah's  life  by  its  ftirious  barking, 
calling  the  prince's  attention  to  a  tiger 
which  was  m  the  act  of  springing  on 
him  (see  Grant  Duff,  vol.  ii.  p.  30). 
The  Raja  dressed  out  the  dog  m  gold 
brocade  covered  with  jewels,  and  put 
his  own  turban  on  its  head  when  he 
was  about  to  receive  two  Maratha  chiefs 
in  fall  court.  He  also  kept  a  palanquin 
establishment  for  the  dog.  There  are 
also  some  tombs  here  to  widows  who 


performed  sati.  The  last  sati  took  place 
m  1836. 

160  m.  Miraj  junc.  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 

[A  branch  line,  constructed  altogether 
at  the  cost  of  the  Kolhapur  state,  runs 
W.  to  the  capital — 

29  m.  Kolhapur  sta.,  D.B.  (pop. 
89,000),  is  the  capital  of  a  native  state 
with  a  total  area  of  about  2816  sq.  m. 
It  has  been  celebrated  for  centuries  on 
account  of  the  antiquity  of  its  temples, 
and  is  now  also  distinguished  for  its 
good,  well-designed  modem  buildings. 
The  Raja  traces  his  descent  from  the 
Maratha  chief  Shivaji. 

His  New  PaloM,  between  the  Resi- 
dency and  the  city,  was  built  at  a  cost 
of  700,000  rs.,  and  is  a  very  prominent 
object  in  the  landscape. 

The  Albert  Edward  Hospital  was 
built  in  commemoration  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales's  visit  to  India,  and  contains  a 
portrait  of  him. 

Opposite  is  the  Town  Hall,  situated 
in  the  Public  Gardens.  The  Bigh 
School,  a  handsome  pile  of  buildings,  is 
near  the  Old  Palace  in  the  centre  of  the 
town,  and  fronting  it  is  the  Native 
General  Library,  The  Political  Agent's 
House  is  a  handsome  building.  800  yd s. 
W.  of  the  D.B.  is  All  Saints'  Church, 
served  by  the  S.P.G.  clergy,  whose 
Mission -fumse  is  300  yds.  off,  ^  m. 
S.W.  of  the  Political  Agent's  house. 
The  Ladies'  Association  of  the  S.P.G. 
have  8  schools  and  a  Mission-house  in 
the  town. 

A  Nakar  Khana,  or  "Music  Gallery," 
forms  the  entrance  to  the  Palace  Square, 

To  the  right  on  entering  is  the 
Bajwada,  or  Old  Palace,  with  a  stone 
gateway  in  the  centre  and  wooden 
pillars.  On  the  second  story  is  a 
Darbar-room,  with  portraits  of  Aka 
Bai,  mother  of  the  late  chief  of  Kagal, 
and  of  Ahalya  Bai,  adoptive  mother  of 
the  late  Bajah,  Rajah  Ram.  There  is 
also  a  picture  of  the  mausoleum  at 
Florence  erected  over  the  spot  where 
Raja  Ram's  body  was  burned.  He 
died  there  returning  from  a  visit  to 
England.  In  the  third  story  is  an 
Armoury,  in  which  are  many  curious 
swords,  one  of  which  must  have  belonged 
to  Aurangzeb,  for  it  has  in  Persian 
the  name  'Alamgir,  and  the  date  1012 

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ROUTE  22.      POONA  TO  OOA 


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A.H.  There  is  also  a  Persian  sword 
given  b^  Sir  John  Malcolm  to  the  Raja 
of  !.is  time. 

In  the  S.  face  of  the  square  is  the 
Treasury.  In  1857  it  was  the  scene 
of  a  remarkably  heroic  defence  by 
Kaska  Ubari,  a  native  officer,  in  the 
face  of  an  overwhelming  force  of  rebels. 

Adjoining  the  Treasury,  in  the  S. 
face  of  the  square,  are  otlier  Oovem- 
ment  Offices^  and  behind  them  the  shrine 
of  Arnha  Baiy  the  tutelary  deity  of 
Kolhapur.  The  main  portion  of  the 
building  is  built  of  black  stone  from 
local  quarries.  The  carved  stonework 
below  the  dome  resembles  the  style  of 
Jain  temples  of  the  12th  century  in 
Eanara.  The  Jains  claim  this  temple, 
and  say  it  was  dedicated  to  Padmavati. 
In  the  centre  of  the  E.  side  of  the 
court  is  the  adytum,  where  is  the 
image  of  Amba  RaL  A  brazen  image 
of  the  goddess  is  carried  lountl  the 
town  in  a  triumphal  car  on  the  15th  of 
April.  The  great  bell  of  the  temple  is 
inscribed,  "Ave  Maria  Gratise  Plena 
Dominus  Tecum,"  and  must  have  been 
obtained  from  the  Portuguese  about 
the  year  1739. 

From  the  palace  the  streets  diverge 
as  radii  and  join  concentric  lanes  run- 
ning parallel  to  the  roads  which  occupy 
the  place  of  the  old  walls  pulled  down 
in  1881.  Some  interesting  Buddhist 
remains  have  been  discovered  near 
Kolhapur,  which  testify  to  the  an- 
tiquity of  the  place,  including  a  crystal 
casket  of  the  3d  century,  found  in  a 
tope  in  the  neighbourhood. 

N.  of  the  town  is  a  sacred  spot,  the 
Brahmapuri  Hill,  where  the  Brahmans 
undergo  cremation.  About  1 00  yds.  N. 
of  this,  close  to  the  Panchganga  river, 
is  what  is  called  the  JRanis  Garden, 
where  the  bodies  of  the  ruling  family 
are  burned. 

From  this  spot  is  seen  a  bridge  over 
the  river,  with  five  arches,  finished  in 
1878  at  a  cost  of  £14,000.  Beyond 
Rani's  Garden  is  a  massive  stone  gate- 
way, 20  ft.  hij(h,  which  leads  to  the 
Cenotaphs  of  Raja  Sambhaji,  just  op- 
posite the  door  to  that  of  Shivaji,  and 
more  to  the  left,  those  of  Tara-Bai  and 
*Ai  Bai. 

The  Kolhapur  Light  Infantry  lines 


are  at  Bawra,  a  village  3  m.  from  the 
town.  They  are  exceptionally  well  kejjt 
It  appeal's  that  in  ancient  times 
Kolhapur  was  subject  to  earthquakes ; 
and  in  making  extensive  excavations 
many  temples  and  other  buildings 
were  discovered  which  had  been  OTer- 
whelmed  with  earth. 

Bock-cut  Caves  are  found  in  various 
places,  one  in  the  Panhala  Fort,  aid 
another  at  the  Panda  Darah,  6  m.  W. 
of  Panhala,  which  is  at  the  head  of  a 
wooded  chasm  on  a  hill  1000  ft.  above 
the  plain,  but  none  of  these  places  aie 
to  be  compared  with  others  that  have 
been  fully  described. 

The  conduct  of  the  Kolhapur  troops, 
led  by  turbulent  persons,  has  on  several 
occasions  been  the  cause  of  very  aerions 
troubles,  which  in  1843  culminated  in  a 
rebellion,  and  was  not  suppressed  with- 
out serious  fighting. 

In  January  1845  a  British  oflScer 
was  appointed  Political  Supeiiutendent 
of  the  Kolhapur  state,  a  brigade  was 
stationed  in  the  vicinity  of  the  town, 
and  various  measures  of  reform  were 
introduced  into  the  government  with 
the  happiest  results.  Kolha]mr,  how- 
ever, was  one  of  the  few  places  in  the 
Bombay  Presidency  which  took  jmu  t  in 
the  di««a8trous  rebelli<m  of  1857.  The 
mutineers  broke  open  the  store-guard, 
stole  arms,  and  carried  off  public  treasure 
to  the  amount  of  45,000  rs. 

[Hill'foi'ts  of  Panhala  and  Pawan- 
gadh. — Before  leaving  Kolhapur,  the 
traveller  should  pay  a  visit  to  Panhala, 
which  lies  12  m.  to  the  N.W.  of  the 
capital.  There  is  an  excellent  road  all 
the  way  right  into  the  Fort  At  7  m. 
from  Kolhapur  tonga  ponies  should  be 
changed.  The  last  5  m.  is  a  steep 
ascent.  Jotiba's  Hill,  close  by  the 
road,  is  covered  by  a  labyrinth  of 
sacred  temples  and  gateways.  None 
of  the  present  temples  are  of  great  age. 
The  three  principal  ones  are  dedicated 
to  Shiva,  and  built  of  fine  blue  basalt 
In  the  same  hill  are  some  old  rock-cut 
cells.  Pawala  Caves,  near  Jotiba's  Hill, 
consist  of  one  lai^e  hall  34  ft.  sq.  with 
fourteen  pillars.  The  inner  walls  have 
been  cut  into  cells.  Outside  to  the  lefl 
is  a  very  irregular  Chaitya  cave,  31  ft 


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299 


deep  and  16J  ft.  wide  in  front,  with 
lemains  of  dagobas.  In  the  centre 
of  the  hill  is  a  line  of  trees,  and  here 
steps  are  hewn  in  the  rock  which  lead 
to  the  temples,  the  whole  distance  bein^j 
about  4  m.  Jotiba  is  about  2600  ft. 
above  the  sea.  The  traveller  will  pass 
under  the  scarp  of  Pawangadh,  a  fort 
which  is  about  1500  yds.  from  the  E. 
gate  of  Panhala.  Panhala  is  !?992  ft. 
above  sea- level,  and,  though  not  so  hiih 
as  Mahabaleshwar,  the  climate  i 
cooler,  for  the  thermometer  '««'s  n«)t 
rise  above  70*. 

The  Fortress  of  Panhala,  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  the  W.  of  India, 
standing  up  boldly  at  the  top  of  a  rocky 
height,  was  the  stronghold  of  a  Raja 
in  1192  who  reigned  over  the  territory 
from  Mahadeo  Hills  N.  of  Satira  to 
the  river  Hiranyakeshi.  It  was  tnken 
by  the  Kings  of  Bijapur,  who  restored 
it  in  1549  ;  was  capture*!  in  1659  by 
Shivaji,  who  made  some  of  his  most 
successful  expeditions  from  it ;  and 
surrendered  to  the  Moguls  in  1690  ; 
and  in  1844  was  stormed  and  taken  by 
the  English.  At  the  Char  Darwazah^ 
or  quadruple  gate,  is  a  temple  to 
Maruti  ;  passing  on,  there  is  a  Moham- 
medan tomb  of  granite  on  the  1.  con- 
verted into  a  school ;  and  a  little  farther 
onatemple  ofSambhaji  on  the  same  side 
of  the  road.  The  Shivaji  Tower  (1600 
A.D.)  is  a  conspicuous  building  of  two 
stories,  facing  E.  and  standing  at  the 
brink  of  a  precipice.  It  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Political  Agent  as  his  summer 
quarters,  and  commands  an  extensive 
view.  On  one  side  is  a  tolerably  level 
piece  of  ground,  where  are  the  bungalow 
of  the  American  Mission  on  the  right, 
and  the  D.B.  on  the  left,  and  near  it 
a  ruined  pavilion.  About  J  m.  S.W. 
of  the  tower  are  the  stone  granaries 
which  enabled  Shivaji  to  stand  a  siege 
of  five  months.  They  are  30  ft  high, 
57  ft.  broad,  and  130  ft.  long.  At  the 
W.  side  of  the  fort  is  the  Tin  Darvjazah, 
a  triple  gate  handsomely  sculptured. 
To  the  right,  at  about  40  yds.  distance, 
is  the  place  where  the  English  breached 
and  stormed  the  fort  in  1844.  Any 
one  who  examines  this  spot  will  admire 
the  courage  and  vigour  of  the  soldiers 
who  could  ascend,  under  the  fire  of  the 


enemy,  so  steep  an  approach.  About 
parallel  with  this,  near  the  Char  Dar- 
wazah  aforesaid,  and  ovei  hanging  the 
scarp,  is  the  Hang  Mahalj  a  pavilion  used 
for  the  Mohammedan  ladies  when  Pan- 
hala belonged  to  Bijapur.  To  the  S., 
}»eyond  the  school,  is  a  square-domed 
building,  said  to  be  the  Tomb  of 
Shaikh  IS' ad t( -din  Kattal.  Near  Sado- 
ba's  Temple  is  an  old  lank,  built  1497, 
into  which  scores  of  Urahmani  women 
threw  themselves  when  our  soldiers 
stormed  the  fort.] 

Returning  to  Miraj  June,  the  line 
continues  to 

209  m.  Gk>kak  Bead  sta.  (R.)— Four 
m.  from  here  are  the  falls  of  the  Ghat- 
parba  river  known  as  the  Gk>kak  Falls. 
The  traveller  must  take  provisions 
with  him,  and  should  communicate 
with  the  station-master  at  Gokak  and 
ask  him  to  make  arrangements  for  a 
conveyance.  In  the  rainy  season  the 
falls  are  very  fine,  but  at  other  times 
of  the  year  the  volume  of  water  is 
insignificant.  The  height  of  the  fall 
is  176  ft.  and  the  pool  below  is  very 
deep.  Near  the  falls,  on  both  banks, 
are  groups  of  old  temples.  There  are 
remains  of  many  dolmens  S.E.  of  the 
village  of  Konur,  1  m.  from  the  falls. 
The  Gokak  Canal,  an  important  irriga- 
tion work,  starts  from  here. 

244  m.  Belgaum  sta.  (R.),  D.B.,  a 
civil  and  military  cantonment  (pop. 
23,000),  is  called  by  the  natives  Shah  pur 
Belgaum,  from  the  neighbouring  ja^r 
of  Shahpur,  which  lies  to  the  S.  It  is 
situated  in  a  plain  about  2500  ft.  above 
the  sea,  with  low  hills  in  the  distance  ; 
the  Fort  being  at  the  E.  extremity, 
the  town,  which  contains  nothing  of 
especial  interest,  lies  in  the  centre,  and 
the  cantonment  to  the  W. 

The  Fort  is  built  of  stone,  oval  in 
shape,  with  earthen  ramparts  and  a 
ditch.  To  the  N.  is  a  large  tank,  and  to 
the  S.  rice-fields.  The  entrances  are  on 
the  N.W.  and  S.W.  sides  ;  and  within 
are  an  arsenal,  a  barrack,  and  some 
bungalows  of  c  i vilians  and  others.  This 
Fort  was  taken  by  Brig. -General,  after- 
wards Sir,  T.  Munro,  on  the  10th  of 
April  1818. 

In  the  passage,  through  the  ^teway 
which  curves  to  a  second  gate,  is  a  row 

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of  arches  with  some  good  carving.  At 
120  yds.  distant  is  the  ruined  Nakar 
Khana,  or  music  gallery,  and  on  the  left 
is  the  Fort  Ghurdi.  containing  memorial 
tablets  to  C.  J.  Manson,  C.S.,  who  was 
murdered  by  a  band  of  rebels  in  the 
night  of  the  29th  May  1858,  and  to 
Lieut.  W.  P.  Shakespeare,  A.  P. 
Campbell,  and  Ensign  W.  Caldwell, 
who  all  fell  in  the  insurrection  of  Kol- 
hapur  and  SawantwadL 

Beyond  the  Nakar  Ehana  to  the  E. 
is  a  neat  plain  mosque,  and  farther  S. 
a  Jain  Temple^  built  of  laterite. 
There  is  a  low  wall  at  the  entrance, 
alon^  which  are  carved  figures  of 
musicians.  The  fa9ade  has  four  pillars 
and  two  pilasters,  all  of  a  very  com- 
plicated character.  The  inscription  in 
the  old  Eanara  language,  beautifully 
cut  on  a  slab  of  black  porphyry,  which 
once  was  here,  and  is  now  in  the  Museum 
of  the  Bombay  Asiatic  Society,  states 
that  Malikarjuna,  whose  descent  for 
three  generations  is  given,  built  the 
temple. 

The  second  Jain  Temple  is  within  the 
Commissariat  Store  Yard,  and  is  very 
much  finer  than  that  outside.  The 
roof  is  a  most  complicated  piece  of 
carving,  rising  in  tiers,  with  eaves 
about  2  ft.  broad,  which  rest  on  bar-like 
corbels  from  the  pillars.  The  principal 
entrance  faces  the  N.W.,  and  has  one 
elephant  remaining  at  the  side,  much 
mutilated, — there  is  a  quadruple  pend- 
ant in  the  centre.  The  niches  are 
shell-shaped.  There  are  four  portals, 
7  ft.  square  each,  and  each  with  four 
black  hasalt  pillars. «  There  is  no 
image.  Mr.  Burgess  says  :  "  The 
pillars  of  the  temple  are  square  and 
massive,  but  relieved  by  having  all 
the  principal  facets,  the  triangles  on 
the  base  and  neck  carved  with  floral 
ornamentations.  In  the  front  wall  of 
this  chamber  (the  third),  which  is  3  ft. 
7  in.  thick,  are  two  small  recesses, 
closed  by  sliding  stones  1  ft.  9  in. 
high.  The  door  leading  from  the  man- 
dapam  to  the  temple  has  been  carved 
with  uncommon  care.  On  the  centre 
of  the  lintel  is  a  Tirthankar,  and  above 
the  cornice  are  four  sauat  human 
figures.  On  the  neat  coionnettes  of 
the  jambs  are  five  bands  with  human 


groups,  in  some  of  which  the  figures 
are  little  more  than  an  inch  high,  yet 
in  high  relief ;  inside  this  is  a  baud  of 
rampant  Sinhas,  with  a  sort  of  h^h 
frill  round  the  neck  of  each.  Outside 
the  coionnettes  is  a  band  of  ehakioas^  or 
sacred  geese,  another  of  Sinhas,  and 
then  one  of  human  figures,  mostly  on 
bended  knees." 

To  the  S.E.  of  this  temple  is  i 
mosque  called  the  Musjid-i-Safa.  Over 
the  entrance  a  Persian  inscriptioD 
records  its  being  built  in  1619  a.d. 

Belgaum  was  taken  by  Ehwajak 
Mahmud  Gawan,  the  general  of  Mu- 
hammad Shah,  in  1472.  As'ad  Khan 
Suri,  otherwise  called  Ehurram  Turk, 
was  a  gigantic  warrior,  who  held  Bel- 
gaum against  all  assailants  for  a  num- 
ber of  years  in  the  beginning  of  the 
16th  century.  There  is  a  round  seat, 
very  solid  and  heavy,  and  about  4 
ft.  high,  in  front  of  the  mosque,  on 
which  As'ad  Ehan  is  said  to  have 
often  sprung  when  dressed  in  full 
armour. 

There  are  two  cemeteries,  the  new 
one,  which  is  well  kept  and  planted 
with  flowers,  being  IJ  m.  W.  of  the 
Fort. 

SL  Mary's  Church  stands  in  the  can- 
tonment N.W.  of  the  town.  It  was 
consecrated  in  1869.  There  is  a  hand- 
some Memorial  Cross  in  the  compound 
to  twenty -three  sergeants  of  H.M.'s 
64th,  who  died  during  the  Persian  and 
Indian  campaigns,  1866-58. 

The  Tomb  of  As'ad  Khan  is  at  the 
N.  end  of  the  Sadar  Bazaar,  100  yds.  to 
the  S.  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church. 
It  is  a  plain  square  building  of  stone, 
with  a  dome,  and  no  inscription. 

The  Race-course  lies  to  the  N.W.  of 
this  building,  and  it  is  a  pleasant  drive 
to  it. 

[EXCUESIONS. 

At  Sutgati,  14  m.  from  Belgaum, 
there  are  two  Indian  fig-trees  of  very 
great  size.  The  -  first  is  near  the 
D.B.  The  stem  forms  a  wall  of 
timber  extending  40  ft.  and  rises  to  a 
great  height ;  the  branches  spread  out 
100  ft.  round  the  trunk.  The  other 
tree  is  about  1  m.  from  the  bungalow, 

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ROUTE  22.       8AMPGA0N,  SAUNDATI,  HULI 


301 


ftod  though  not  remarkable  for  height, 
coders  a  larger  surface  of  ground. 

Eadaroli,  anciently  caUed  Kadara- 
villi,  a  village  on  the  river  Malparba, 
is  8  m.  from  Mugut  Khan  Hulli, 
\i^ich  is  the  second  stage  on  the  Dhar- 
war  road  from  Belgaum,  and  about  18 
lA.  as  the  crow  flies  from  Belgaum. 
It  possesses  a  ruined  Temple  to  Sharikar 
Deva,  of  black  stone,  in  the  bed  of  the 
river,  and  inaccessible  during  floods. 
The  central  shrine  is  8  ft.  3^  in.  square, 
and  each  of  the  two  side  ones  6  ft.  6^ 
isw  The  pillars  of  the  mandapam  and 
Xwrtico  to  the  central  temple  remain  ; 
but  the  roofs  and  the  capitals  of  all 
the  columns  have  been  carried  off  by 
the  river.  This  temple  is  interesting 
from  its  antiquity  and  its  singular 
position  in  the  oed  of  the  river. 

At  Sampg^n,  7i  m.  N.  by  £. 
from  Kadaroli,  is  a  well-proportioned 
mosfjuo.  Over  the  Mihrab  is  a  band- 
some  Tughra  inscription,  containing 
parts  of  the  6th,  12th,  and  61st  Surahs 
of  the  Koran.  About  7  m.  £.  of 
Sampgaon  is  the  village  of  Bail  ffangal, 
where  is  a  temple  which  dates  from 
about  1200  A.D.  This  temple  is  about 
54  ft.  long,  and  33  ft.  broad. 

Saundati,  about  18  m.  to  the  K  of 
Bail-Hangal,  and  40  m.  E.  of  Bel^um, 
has  a  temple  to  Bbavani.  It  is  in  the 
Fort,  and  was  built  by  the  Desai  of 
Nargund. 

About  1  m.  due  S.  of  Saundati  is 
the  celebrated  temple  of  Yellama,  at 
Parasgad.  It  is  built  in  the  bed  of 
the  Sarasvati,  a  small  stream  which  runs 
£.  from  the  hills  above  Saundati.  The 
temple  is  said  to  be  2000  years  old, 
but  was  rebuilt  in  the  beginning  of  the 
13th  century,  and  again,  except  perhaps 
the  shrine,  at  the  end  of  the  17th 
century.  It  stands  in  the  middle  of  a 
court,  surrounded  by  arcades  with 
pointed  arches.  In  the  W.  gate  are 
some  pillars  like  those  of  the  Jain 
tem(>les  at  Belgaum,  and  on  the  base 
of  one  is  an  inscription  covered  with 
whitewash* 

Hnli,  a  village  9  m.  to  the  N.E.  of 
Saundati,  has  a  temple  of  Panchalinga 
Deva,  built  by  the  Jains  about  1100. 
On  two  pillars  of  the  outer  mandapam 
are  Kanarese  inscriptions.    At  the  foot 


of  the  hill  to  the  N.  of  the  village  is 
a  group  of  ruined  temples ;  one  built 
of  hara  compact  bluish  stone  has  a 
mandapam  43  ft  from  N.  to  S.  The 
four  central  pillars  are  similar  to  those 
at  Belgaum,  only  the  snake  is  wanting 
on  the  bracket.  The  short  pillars  on 
the  screen  are  very  varied,  hexagonal, 
octagonal,  and  circular.  The  door- 
way of  the  shrine  is  of  porphyry,  richly 
carved,  and  on  the  lintel  is  Shri  or 
Lakshmi,  with  elephants  pouring  water 
over  her.  At  6  m.  to  the  N.  W.  from 
Huli  is  the  village  of  MaTutuli,  where 
are  eight  temples  to  Panchalinga  Deva, 
of  coarse-grained  stone,  no  way  re- 
markable for  carving.  The  snake  head 
on  the  bracket  and  their  general  style 
would  lead  us  to  assign  these  temples 
to  the  same  age  as  those  at  Belgaum, 
that  is,  to  the  end  of  the  12th  century. 
From  Manauli  to  Badami  is  two 
marches.  Badami  is  described  in  Rte. 
23.] 

277  m.  Londa  June  sta.  (R.)  (Lines 
E.  to  Bezwada  at  the  delta  of  the  Kistna 
river.    S.  E.  to  Bangalore  and  Madras. ) 

292  m.  Castle  Rock  sta.  (R.)  Here, 
at  the  frontier  of  the  Portugniese  terri- 
tory of  Gk>a,  the  S.  Maratha  line  is 
joined  by  the  W.  of  India  Portuguese 
Rly. ,  which  in  61  m.  reaches  the  coast 
at  Marmagoa,  the  seaport  of  Goa. 
In  the  course  of  the  first  10  m.  from 
the  frontier  the  line  passes  through  a 
dozen  tunnels,  ranging  from  150  to  838 
ft.  in  length,  which  had  to  be  cut 
almost  entirely  out  of  the  solid  rock. 
Apart  fi'om  its  commercial  importance, 
the  line  possesses  much  interest  for 
lovers  of  the  picturesque,  as  it  runs 
through  magnificent  scenery. 

8^  m.  from  Castle  Rock  is  Dudh 
Saugar  sta.,  or  the  "sea  of  milk," 
where  there  is  a  veiy  fine  waterfall. 

61  m.  The  terminus  of  the  rly.  is  on 
the  quay  at  the  Port  of  Marmagoa, 
which,  as  well  as  the  line,  is  the  pro- 
perty of  the  West  of  India  Portuguese 
Kailway  Company  ;  and  arrangements 
have  been  made  so  that  the  trade  is  as 
free  there  as  in  British  India. 

The  British  India  Steam  Navigation 
Company  run  vessels  to  and  from  Bom- 
bay in  26  hours. 


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ROUTE  22.       POONA  TO  GOA 


Iniii 


In  approaching  Goa  from  Bombay  by 
sea  the  steamer  enters  a  spacions  har- 
bour formed  by  two  estaanes,  with  the 
island  of  Goa  in  between  them,  and 
embraced  by  two  rocky  promontories. 
At  the  extremity  of  the  S.  arm  is  the 
landing-place  and  quay  of  Marmagoa, 
where  a  steamer  of  4000  tons  can  be 
berthed.  Here  at  the  foot  of  a  sandy  clitf 
is  the  Terminus  mentioned  above,  of 
the  rly.,  which  leaves  on  one  side  both 
New  and  Old  Goa  on  its  way  through 
the  territory.  To  reach  them  a  small 
steamer  crosses  the  estuary  of  Marma- 
goa, rounds  the  CabOy  the  W.  point  of 
the  island,  enters  the  estuary  of  Agu- 
ada,  ascends  the  Mondavi,  one  of  the 
two  rivers  falling  into  it,  and  passes, 
near  its  mouth,  the  fine  Fortress  and 
Chv/rch  of  Reis  Megos  on  the  1.  On 
the  rt.  is  the  island  of  Goa,  and  upon 
it,  at  about  4  m.  from  Marmagoa,  stands 

New  Ck>a,30c  otherwise  Paw/im,  a 
town  of  no  pretence.  It  contains  9500 
inhabitants,  and  more  than  half  the 
native  population  are  Christian  descend- 
ants of  Hindus  converted  by  Jesuits. 

A  row  of  handsome  buildings  lines 
the  quay,  including  the  Old  Fort^  now 
the  residence  of  the  Viceroy,  who  re- 
moved hither  from  Old  Goa  about 
1760,  and  in  1845  made  this  the  seat 
of  Government  and  capital  of  the  Por- 
tuguese territory  in  India.  Here  also 
is  the  Palace  of  the  ArchMshop,  who 
is  Primate  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  in  India,  and  assessor  of  the 
Portuguese  Viceroy  in  the  Government. 

Near  it  are  the  Barracks,  which 
hold  the  standing  army  of  300  men.  In 
front  of  them  is  a  statue  of  Alfonso 
d' Albuquerque,  the  founder  of  Old  Goa. 

The  Telegraph  Office  is  in  a  great 
part  maintained  at  the  expense  of  the 
British  Government. 

The  **  &oa  Boys,"  so  well  known  in 
Bombay  and  in  other  parts  of  India  as 
servants,  come  from  Panjim. 

A  good  road  leads  from  New  to  Old 
Goa  about  5  m.  higher  up  the  valley, 
at  first  crossing  a  causeway  thrown 
over  the  swamp  to  Ribamdar  village. 
From  here  cocoa-nut  plantations  and 
dwelling-houses  line  the  way,  which 
commands  a  fine  view  N.  across  the 


river  to  the  hilly  wooded  country  be- 
yond, and  includes  a  conspicuous  round 
hill,  crowned  by  a  church  aud  convent- 
ual buildings,  upon  the  river-island  of 
Divar. 

Old  Goa  (Goa  Yelha)  owes  its  ori|i;in 
to  Alfonso  d*  Albuquerque,  who  at  Ae 
head  of  a  Portuguese  expedition  of  30 
ships  and  1200  troops  attacked  and 
carried  by  storm  after  a  severe  strug^ 
a  small  Mohammedan  town  on  tiie 
coast  of  Malabar,  1510.  On  this  site 
he  founded  the  Christian  city.  It  rose 
rapidly  into  prosperity  and  importanct^ 
and  by  the  middle  of  the  16th  cent 
became  the  wealthiest  city  in  all  India, 
the  capital  and  seat  of  government  of 
the  then  vast  Portuguese  territory, 
with  a  population  of  200,000.  Besides 
this  it  was  the  first  Christian  colony 
in  the  Indies,  and  the  scene  of  the 
mission  labours  of  St.  Francis  Xavier. 
But  decay  followed  rapidly,  first  owing 
to  the  attacks  of  the  Dutch,  whose 
fleets  blockaded  its  harbour ;  and  next 
because,  its  site  proving  pestilential,  it 
became  deserted  by  its  inhabitants,  of 
whom  in  1890  only  86  remained.^  It 
is  now  literally  a  city  of  ruins,  and  is 
so  hidden  from  view  by  the  foliage  of 
the  jungle  which  has  occupied  it,  that 
the  stranger  approaches  it  unawares, 
and  drives  into  the  midst  unconscious 
that  he  is  traversing  streets  of  empty 
dwellings,  whose  stunted  walls  are 
occupied  by  cocoa-nut  and  other  tall 
trees  instead  of  human  beings. 

In  the  midst  of  all  this  ruin,  Goa 
remains  a  city  of  magnificent  churches, 
four  or  five  ranking  as  first  class  and  in 
perfect  preservation,  though  not  iu  the 
best  style  of  architecture,  betraying  the 
degraded  taste  of  the  Jesuits. 

The  main  street,  the  only  straight  one, 
Rua  Diretta,  leads  into  a  vast  central 
square  composed  of  churches  and  con- 
vents. The  most  imi)ortant  of  these 
and  the  holiest,  because  it  contains  the 
body  of  St.  Francis  Xavier,  is  St. 
PauVs,  commonly  known  as  the  Bom 
Jesus,  erected  in  1594.  Its  handsome 
fa^de  runs  on  into  that  of  another  vast 

1  Goa  in  ita  palmy  atate  ia  admirably  dd> 
scribed  by  Captain  Marryat  in  his  Phantom  , 
Ship ;  in  its  present  atate  by  Graham  Sand- 
beig  Afvnuya  Jfo^ovine,  November  1890. 

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ROUTE  22.       OLD  QOA 


303 


bmlding  with  lofty  halls  and  lengthy 
corridors,  all  empty,  the  Convent  of 
the  JeauitSy  which  though  not  finished 
uitil  1590,  Sd  yt-ars  after  the  death  of 
St  Francis,  haid  the  merit  of  rearing 
aid  sending  forth  over  the  world  that 
admirable  and  devoted  band  of  mission- 
aries, the  children  of  that  saintly  man 
who  worked  so  hard  for  the  salvation 
of  the  heathen  in  India,  China,  Japan, 
Paraguay,  and  N.  America.  The  Order 
was  suppressed  here  in  1759,  the  other 
monastic  orders  not  till  1835,  when 
their  property  was  confiscated  to  the 
state.  The  endowments  of  the 
churches,  however,  have  not  been  for- 
feited, and  the  Archbishop  and  the 
secular  clergy  of  Goa  still  receive  allow- 
ances from  Government. 

The  Chnrch  of  Bom  Jesoi  may  be 
entered  by  a  side  door  from  the  Jesuits' 
College,  passing  the  Sacristy,  a  spacious 
haU,  with  wardrobes  filled  with  rich 
priestly  robes.  Near  it  hangs  a  portrait 
of  St  Francis  Xavier  at  the  a^e  of  44, 
—a  dark  face  of  sweet  expression. 

The  Tomb  and  Hhrine  of  St.  Frcmcis 
Xavier  (1765)  occupy  a  side  chapel, 
richly  adorned ;  the  walls  lined  with 
pictures  illustrating  some  of  the  acts 
of  his  life.  The  monument  is  a  stately 
structure,  consisting  of  three  tiers  of 
sarcophagi  of  costly  jasper  and  marble, 
the  gift  of  the  Grand  Duke  of  Tuscany. 
The  upper  tier  is  ornamented  with 
panels  curiously  wrought  in  coloured 
marbles  so  as  to  represent  scenes  in  the 
life  of  the  saint ;  the  whole  is  sur- 
mounted by  the  silver  coffin  containing 
the  body,  and  adorned  with  reliefs  also 
in  silver,  and  with  figures  of  angels  in 
the  same  metal  supportine  a  cross. 
The  coffin,  weighing  600  marks  of  silver, 
is  unlocked  by  3  keys,  in  the  keeping 
of  the  Viceroy,  the  Archbishop,  and  an- 
other, and  has  been  frequently  opened, 
disclosing  to  public  view  the  body  in 
wonderful  preservation.  In  1614  came 
an  order  from  Pope  Paul  V.  to  amputate 
the  right  arm  and  send  it  to  Kome. 
A  relic-hunting  lady  followed  suit  by 
biting  off  two  of  his  toes  !  Since  then 
it  has  shrunk  to  a  mummy.  In  height 
it  measures  only  4  ft.  6  in. 

In  the  body  of  the  church  is  a  statue 
of  the  saint,  of  solid  silver,  the  gift  of 


Donna  Maria,  wife  of  Pedro  II.  and 
Queen  of  Portugal;  and  behind  the 
high  altar  one  in  marble  of  Ignatius 
Loyola. 

250  yds.  distant,  on  the  opposite 
side  of  tne  square,  stands  the  Cathedral 
(St.  Catherine),  the  church  next  in 
importance  to  the  Bom  Jesus,  and 
known  as  the  San  Prima^ial,  built 
1623,  260  ft  long,  180  wide,  with 
facade  116  ft  hi^h,  white-washed  in- 
side, with  his:h  altar  at  the  W.  end. 
It  alone  of  all  the  churches  retains  a 
staff  of  priests, — 28  canons,  who  perform 
the  service  throughout  the  year.  On 
looking  from  the  terraced  roof  of  the 
Cathedral  one  cannot  but  think  of  the 
solemn  and  terrible  sights  that  have 
been  seen  in  the  sc^uare  below,  when 
the  great  bell  of  this  church  tolled  to 
announce  the  celebration  of  an  Auto- 
da-F6. 

To  the  E.,  along  the  course  of  the 
Rua  Diretta,  stood  the  Palace  of  1M 
awfvX  Inquisition,  with  its  dungeons 
and  prisons,  suppressed  in  1814,  now 
an  overgrown  heap  of  ruins  an  acre  in 
extent. 

N.W.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  Arch- 
bishop's  PalacCy  a  magnificent  residence 
still  occupied  ocasionally. 

W.  of  the  Cathedral  is  the  once 
gorgeous  Church  of  San  Francesco 
d'Assisif  the  oldest  here,  having  been 
adapted  from  a  mosque.  It  was,  how- 
ever, rebuilt  1521,  except  the  porch, 
which  is  original,  and  is  in  fair  re- 
pair. 

Near  the  ruins  of  the  Viceroy's 
Palace,  and  about  i  m.  N.  of  the 
Church  of  Bom  Jesus,  is  the  Church  of 
St,  CajetaUy  perhaps  the  best  preserved 
here,  built  1665,  and  surmounted  by 
a  dome  and  by  two  low  towers ;  the 
facade  is  of  red  laterite,  white-washed. 
It  contains  some  life-sized  portraits  of 
Portuguese  vicerojrs.  In  the  adjoining 
monastery  the  Viceroy  stops  on  his 
periodical  visits  to  Old  Gca.  Here  the 
archives  of  the  city  and  some  curiosities 
of  the  arsenal  are  preserved. 

Near  the  entrance  to  the  town  from 
the  S.  are  the  Chv/rch  and  Convent  of 
St  Monica,  both  empty, — a  handsome 
pile  of  buildings. 

Other  churches  still  intact  in  Goa 

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304 


ROUTE  23.       HOTGI  TO  DHAEWAR 


India 


are  OtMr  Lady  of  the  Rosary^  St.  Antony 
of  Padua,  SL  Peter,  St.  Catherine's 
Chapelf  Owr  Lady  of  the  Mount. 

Other  churches  and  monasteries,  etc., 
now  in  ruin  are  St.  Augustine,  St. 
JohndiDio,  Our  Lady  of  Pity,  Domini- 
can and  Carmelite  Churches,  St.  Alexius, 
St.  ThoTnas,  St.  Martin's  Chapel,  Church 
of  the  Holy  Trinity,  St.  Bonaventure  ; 
besides  Franciscan,  Carmelite,  Domini- 
can, and  Augustinian  monasteries. 


ROUTE  23 

HOTGI  TO  BlJAPUE,  BaDAMI,  AND 

Dharwab 

Hotgi  June.  sta.  (R)  is  9  m.  E.  of 
Sholapur,  on  the  line  from  Bombay 
to  Madras  (see  Rte.  24).  From  Minch- 
nal,  the  station  before  Bijapur,  the 
domes  and  minarets  of  the  city  are 
plainly  seen  to  the  S. 

59  m.  BUAFUB^  8ta.30c  (originally 
Vijayapura,  city  of  victory)  (R.),  D.B. 
The  rly.  sta.  is  E.  of  the  city  and  close 
to  the  Gol  Gumbaz,  the  great  tomb  of 
Muhammad  'Adil  Shah. 

Following  Fergusson's  account  of  the 
origin  of  the  *Adil  family,  it  appears 
that — such  was  the  decay  of  the  Bah- 
mani  dynasty  of  Kalbarga  and  Bedar 
before  the  end  of  the  14th  century — 
the  Hindus  might  have  recovered  their 
original  possessions  in  Southern  India 
but  for  the  appearance  in  the  field 
of  one  of  their  opponents'  ^nerals, 
Yusaf  Khan,  a  son  of  Amurath  II.,  of 
Anatolia.  He  was  a  Turk  of  pure 
blood,  and  as  it  happens,  bom  in  Con- 

1  An  admirable  gnide  to  B^apur,  by  H. 
Cousens,  giving  details  of  all  the  buildings, 
anda  valuable  historical  slcetch  of  the  'Adil 
Shahi  dvnasty,  can  be  bought  at  the  principal 
booksellers  in  Bombay  and  Poona. 


stantinople,  though  his  mother  Tas 
forced  to  fly  thence  while  he  was  still 
an  infant  After  a  varied  career,  he 
was  purchased  for  the  bodyguard  at 
Bedar,  and  soon  raised  himself  to  nch 
pre-eminence,  that  in  1489  he  was  m* 
abled  to  proclaim  his  independence,  aad 
establish  himself  as  the  founder  of  fte 
'Adil  Shahi  dynasty  of  Bnapnr.  Tie 
following  is  the  order  of  their  soe- 


cession : — 

A.D. 

Yusaf  Khan, 

'Adil  Shah   1489 

Ismail 

1510 

Mallu 

„             1534 

Ibrahim  I. 

1534 

'AUI. 

1557 

Ibrahim  II. 

1580 

Muhammad 

1627 

•AH  II. 

1656 

Sikandar 

„    1672  to  16 

in  which  year  the  city  was  taken  by 
Aurangzeb.  The  king  was  captured 
and  brought  before  him  in  silver  chiuns 
and  the  'Adil  Shahi  dynasty  ceased  to 
exist. 

The  Kaladgi  district  was  renamed 
Bijapur  in  1883  when  Government 
deciaed  to  reoccupy  the  old  capital  as 
administrative  headquarters  of  the  dis- 
trict. The  area  of  the  district  is 
5757  sq.  m.,  and  the  pop.  638,500 
and  already  its  whole  aspect  is  changed. 
Great  difficulty  was  experienced  in 
clearing  ground  for  roads  and  houses 
from  the  large  areas  of  prickly  pear 
that  had  to  be  removed.  The  station 
is  now  well  planted  with  trees. 

Torwah  about  1610  A.D.  was  agreat 
suburb,  a  rival  city,  to  the  W.  of 
Bijapur;  but  when  Aurangzib  took 
Bijapur,  Torwah  was  already  "quite 
depopulated,  its  ruined  palaces  only 
remaining,  with  a  thick  wall  surround- 
ing it,  whose  stately  gateways  were 
falling  to  decay."  liiis  suburb,  then, 
whose  walls  extended  3  m.  from  the 
W.  gate  of  the  Fort,  and  probably  other 
suburbs  which  have  now  utterly  per- 
ished, must  have  been  included  in  the 
80  m.  circuit  which  tradition  ascribes 
to  Bijapur.  What  is  called  the  city 
now  is  the  Fort,  of  which  Grant  Duff 
says  that  it  was  6  m.  in  circumference. 
Within  the  walls  of  the  Fort  is  the 
Citadel,  with  walls  extending  1660  ft. 

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ROtJTE  23.      BIJAPUR 


305 


from  X.  to  S.,  and  1900  ft.  from  W.  to 
£.  An  examination  of  the  buildings 
wil  give  proof  of  the  former  riches  and 
magnificence  of  this  old  capital.  Two 
days  will  not  be  too  much  to  devote  to 
the  principal  buildings  alone. 
The  Oates  of  the  fort  or  city  are — 
The  Fateh  Gate  {ly  in  the  centre  of 
tlie  S.  wall  of  the  city,  that  by  which 
iurangzib  is  said  to  have  entered. 

The  Shahpur  Gate  (2),  on  the  N.W. 
The  gate  itself  is  furnished  with  long 
iron  spikes  on  the  outside  to  protect  it 
from  being  battered  in  by  the  elephants 
of  an  enemy.  This  was  a  common 
device  throughout  India.  S.  of  it,  on 
the  W.  of  the  city,  is  the 


In  the  centre  of  the  N.  wall  is  the 
Bahmani  Gate  (7). 

On  the  £.  side  of  the  city,  close  to 
the  rly.  sta.,  is  the  Mattsoleum  of  Mu 
hammad  *Adil  STuih^  seventh  king,  a 
magnificent  structure,  generally  called 
the  Gol  Onmbas,  or  "Round  Dome"  (8) 
and  by  some  it  is  styled  Gul  Gumbaz,  or 
**Rose  Dome."  Mr.  Fergusson,  in  his 
Hist,  of  Indian  Arch,,  says  of  this 
buildinc:  This  tomb  of  "Mahmud^ 
was  in  design  as  complete  a  contrast  to 
that "  of  Ibrahim  II.,  described  below, 
*'  as  can  well  be  imagined,  and  is  as 
remarkable  for  simple  grandeur  and 
constructive  boldness  as  that  of  Ibrahim 
was  for  excessive  richness  and  contempt 


Zohrapur  Gate  (3) ;  and  600  ft.  to 
the  S.  of  that  is  the 

Makka  Gate  (4),  with  representations 
on  either  side  of  lions  trampling  on  an 
elephant.  This  gate  is  closed  and  con- 
verted into  a  school.  A  less  imposing 
one  (4a),  a  few  hundred  yds.  farther 
N.,  serves  its  purpose.  Almost  exactly 
opposite  to  it  on  the  other  or  K  side 
of  the  Fort  is 

'Alipur  Gate  (5),  or  High  Gate, 
wrongly  called  in  maps  and  elsewhere 
the  Allahpur  Gate.     N.  of  it  is  the 

Padshahpur  Gate  (6)  near  the  rly. 
sta. 

*  The  numbers  refer  to  the  corresponding 
numbers  on  the  plan  of  Bijapur. 
\India] 


of  constructive  proprieties.  It  is  con- 
structed  on  the  same  principle  as  that 
employed  in  the  design  of  the  dome  of 
the  great  mosque,  but  on  so  much  larger 
a  scale  as  to  convert  into  a  wonder  of 
constructive  skill  what,  in  that  in- 
stance, was  only  an  elegant  architect- 
ural design."  It  is  built  on  a  platform 
600  ft.  square  and  2  ft.  high.  In  front  is 
a  great  gateway,  94x88  ft.,  with  a 
Nakar  Knana,  music  gallery,  above. 
The  mausoleum  is  a  square  building 
1  This  kins  is  called  at  Bijapnr  itself 
Mnhammad,  but  the  word  Mahmud,  which 
signifies  "  praiseworthy,"  occurs  in  the  second 
inscription.  He  is  called  Mahmud  in  a  paper 
mentioned  in  the  Indian  Antiquary^  voL  ii. 
p.  2282.    His  name  was  MQhammad  Mahmud 

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306 


ROUTE  23.       HOTGI  TO  DHARWAR 


Imdia 


with  sides  measuring  196  ft  (exterior), 
and  at  each  comer  is  a  tower  seven 
stories  high.  In  the  centre  is  the  great 
dome,  124  ft  in  diameter,  while  that 
of  St  Peter's  is  only  139,  and  that  of 
St.  Paul's  108.  Over  the  entrance  are 
three  inscriptions — *' Sultan  Muham- 
mad, inhabitant  of  Paradise,"  *' Mu- 
hammad, whose  end  was  commendable," 
'*  Muhammad,  became  a  particle  of 
heaven  (lit  House  of  Salvation),  1067." 
The  date,  three  times  repeated,  is  1659 
A.D.  The  surface  of  the  building  for 
the  most  nart  is  covered  with  plaster. 
Each  fafaae  has  a  wide  lofty  arch  in 
its  centre,  pierced  with  small  windows 
and  a  blind  one  on  either  side,  and 
above  it  is  a  cornice  of  gray  basalt  and 
a  row  of  small  arches  supporting  a 
second  line  of  plain  work,  surmounted 
by  a  balustrade  6  ft  high.  The  comer 
towers  are  entered  from  winding  stair- 
cases in  the  thickness  of  the  walls  of 
the  main  building,  and  terminate  in 
cupolas.  Each  story  has  seven  small 
arched  windows  opening  into  the  court 
below.  From  the  8th  story  there  is  an 
entrance  to  a  broad  gallery  inside  the 
dome,  which  is  so  wide  th&t  a  carriage 
might  pass  round  it  Here  there  is  a 
most  remarkable  echo ;  a  soft  whisper 
at  one  point  of  the  gallery  can  be  heard 
most  custinctly  at  the  opposite  point, 
and  as  Cousens  says  "one  pair  of  feet  is 
enough  to  awaken  the  echoes  of  the  tread 
of  a  regiment "  The  great  hall,  136  ft. 
square,  over  which  the  dome  is  raised, 
is  the  largest  domed  space  in  the  world. 
The  intemal  area  of  the  tomb  is  18,225 
sq.  ft.,  while  that  of  the  Pantheon  at 
Rome  is  only  15, 833.  *  *  At  the  height 
of  57  ft  from  the  floor-line,"  says  Mr. 
Fergusson,  "  the  hall  begins  to  contract 
by  a  series  of  pendentives  as  ingenious 
as  they  are  beautiful,  to  a  circular  open- 
ing 97  ft  in  diameter.  On  the  platform 
of  the  pendentives  the  dome  is  erected, 
124  ft  in  diameter.  Internally,  the 
dome  is  175  ft.  high ;  externally,  198 
ft  ;  its  general  thickness  beinff  about 
10  ft"  ^    From  the  gallery  outside  there 

i  "The  most  ingenious  and  novel  part  of 
the  construction  is  the  mode  in  which  its 
lateral  and  outward  thrust  is  counteracted. 


This  was  accomplished  by  forming  the  pen- 
dentives  so  that  they  not  only  cut  off  the 
angles,  but  that,  as  shown  in  the  plan,  their 


is  a  fine  view  over  BQapur.  On  the 
K  is  'Alipur ;  on  the  w .  are  seen  the 
Ibrahim  Koza,  the  Upari  Buij,  and  the 
Shaerza,  or  Lion  Bastion,  the  unfinished 
tomb  of  'AH  'AdU  Shah  II.,  the  Asar 
Mahal,  and  about  1  m.  in  the  sane 
direction  the  ruins  of  the  villages  of  fiie 
masons  and  painters^  employed  on  fiie 
Gol  Qumbaz  ;  and  on  the  S.  W.  is  tie 
dome  of  the  Jumma  Muqid.  There  is 
a  small  annexe  to  the  mausoleum  on 
the  N.  without  a  roof,  built  by  Sultui 
Muhammad  as  a  tomb,  it  is  supposed,  for 
his  mother,  Zuhra  Sahibah,  fromwhon 
one  of  the  suburbs  was  called  Zuhrapor. 
It  was  never  finished  or  occupied. 

Below  the  dome  is  the  cenotaph  of 
Sultan  Muhammad  in  the  centre.  On 
the  E.  side  are  the  graves  of  his  youncest 
wife  and  of  the  son  of  'Ali  'Adil  Shah 
II. ;  on  the  W.  are  those  of  his  favoui- 
ite  dancing-girl  Rhamba,  his  daughter, 
and  his  eldest  wife,  mentioned  by  Ber- 
nier.  On  the  edge  of  the  platform  W. 
is  the  mosque  attached  to  the  mauso- 
leum, a  building  of  no  mean  size  and  of 
considerable  beauty  of  design,  but  quite 
eclipsed  by  the  size  of  the  Gol  Gumoaz. 
It  is  now  disfigured  by  being  converted 
into  the  Traveller's  Bungalow. 

The  Jumma  Musjid  (9),  nearly  i  m. 


Section  of  Domes,  Jumma  Mo^id. 

S.  W.  of  the  Gol  Gumbaz,  is  entered  by 
a  gateway  on  the  N.  side.     The  snr- 

arches  intersect  one  another  and  frnra  t 
very  considerable  mass  of  masonry  perfectly 
stable  in  itself,  and  by  its  weight  acting  up- 
wards, counteracting  any  thrust  that  can  poi- 
sibly  be  brought  to  bear  upon  It  by  the  jn^ssora 
of  the  dome." —FergiissoTi. 


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ROUTE  23.      filJAPXTR 


307 


tDimdilig  wall  was  never  completed  on 
tie  £.  The  arcades  on  the  ]N.  and  S. 
ddes  are  81  ft.  broad.  In  the  centre 
•f  the  quadrangle  is  the  hanz  or  tank 
for  ablutions,  now  dry.  Mr.  Fergnsson 
says,  "Even  as  it  is,  it  is  one  of  the 
finest  mosques  in  India." 

It  was  conunenced  by  'All  'Adil  Shah 
I.  (1557-79),  and  though  continued  by 
his   successor^  was  never   completely 
finished.     If  it  had  been  completed,  it 
would  have  covered  fi^m  50,000  to 
55,000  sq.  ft,  and  would  have  been 
tiie    size   of   a   mediseval   cathedraL 
The  mosque  proper  has  a*  facade  of  9 
bays,  and  is  5  bays  in  depth.    Each  of 
the  squares  into  which  it  is  divided  has 
a  domed  roof,  beautiftd,  but  so  flat 
as  to  be  concealed  externally.     The 
centre,   a  space  70  fk.  square,  corre- 
sponding to  12  of  these  squares,  is 
roofed  over  by  the  great  dome,  which  is 
57  ft.  in  diameter.     It  is  supported  on 
pendentives  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
Gol   Gumbaz.     The  pavement  below 
the   dome  is  of  chunam,  divided  by 
black  lines  into  numerous  squares  called 
mu8cUla?i8,  or  compartments  for  persons 
to  pray  on,  imitating  the  musatlahj  or 
prayer-carpet,  which  the  faithful  carry 
with  them  to  the  mosques.      These 
were  made  by  order  of  Aurangzib  when 
he  carried  away  the  velvet  carpets,  the 
large  golden  chain,  and  other  valuables 
belonging  to  the  mosa  ue.   Mr.  Molecey , 
at  one  time  the  arcnitect  in  charge  of 
the  buildings  here,  states  that  the  shikr, 
or  ornament  at  the  top  of  the  mosaue, 
was  filled  with  a  sort  of  grain  called 
rura  to  give  it  weight. 

The  mihrab,  which  marks  the  place 
on  the  W.  to  which  the  people  turn 
hi  prayer,  is  gilt  and  ornamented 
with  much  Arabic  writing,  but  there 
is  aJso  a  Persian  quatrain,  which  may 
thus  be  translated — 
.Rest  not  in  the  Palace  of  Life,  for  it  is  not 

secore, 
None  can  rest  in  a  bnilding,  which  is  not 

meant  to  endore, 
Fair  in  my  sight  seems  the  World's  halting- 
place, 
A  8"weet  treaanre  is  Life,  but  'tis  gone  without 

leaving  a  trace. 
This  Arch  was  built  in  the  time  of  the  reign 

of  Sultan  Muhammad  Shah. 
The  date   of  the    ornamentation    is 
1686. 


The  Mehtar  Mahal  (10)  is  the  name 
given  to  the  entrance  gateway  to  the 
Mehtar  Mosque,  a  building  of  minor 
importance.  It  stands  between  the 
Jumma  Musjid  and  the  citadel,  on  the 
S.  of  the  road.  It  is  a  small  but  elegant 
structure,  three  stories  high,  with  minar- 
ets at  the  comers  and  ornamental  carv- 
ing in  soft  stone  about  its  balconied 
and  projecting  windows.  It  may  be 
observed  in  explanation  of  its  name, 
that  when  the  Hindustani  language 
arose  in  the  Urdu,  or  camp,  of  the 
Mogul  emperors,  the  Persian  soldiers 
gave  nicknames  to  various  persons, 
which  took  their  place  in  the  language : 
thus,  a  tailor  was  called  Knalifa, 
"Caliph";  a  waterman  was  called 
Bihishti,  "  an  inhabitant  of  Paradise  "  ; 
and  a  sweeper,  the  lowest  of  the  low, 
was  called  Mihtar,  **a  prince."  The 
story  is  that  Ibrahim  Shan  had  a  disease 
which  his  physicians  could  not  cure, 
and  the  astrologers  told  him  that  his 
only  chance  was  to  give  a  large  sum  to 
the  first  person  he  saw  next  morning. 
The  king  looked  out  of  the  window 
very  early  and  saw  a  sweeper,  on  whom 
he  bestowed  a  vast  sum,  and  the  poor 
fellow,  not  knowing  what  to  do  with 
it,  built  this  mosque.  Mr.  Fergusson 
says  of  this  structure:  "Perhaps  the 
most  remarkable  civil  edifice  is  a  little 
gateway,  ^own  as  the  Methuri  MahaL 
It  is  in  a  mixed  Hindu  and  Moham- 
medan style,  every  part  and  every 
detail  covered  with  ornament,  but 
always  equally  appropriate  and  elegant. 
Of  its  class  it  is  perhaps  the  best 
example  in  the  country,  though  this 
class  may  not  be  the  highest" 

The  palace  of  the  Asar-i-Sharif  (11), 
"illustrious  relics,"  which  are  hairs  of 
the  Prophet's  beard,  is  a  large  heavy- 
looking  Duilding  of  brick  and  lime,  and 
just  outside  the  moat  of  the  inner 
citadel  and  the  centre  of  its  E.  ram- 
part. The  E.  side  is  entirely  open 
from  the  ground  to  the  ceiling,  which 
is  supported  by  4  massive  teak  pillars 
60  ft.  high.  Tjiis  forms  a  deep  portico 
86  ft  broad,  and  looks  upon  a  tank 
250  ft  sq.  The  ceiling  of  the  verandah 
j  or  portico  is  panelled  m  wood  and  has 
been  very  handsomely  painted.    The 

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308 


ROUTE  23.      HOTGI  TO  DHARWAR 


Ifldk 


whole  of  the  W.  side  is  occupied  by 
rooms  in  two  stories.  On  the  right  of 
the  staircase  ascending  to  the  upper 
rooms  is  a  suite  of  aps^ments,  in  the 
first  of  which  are  cases  for  books.  They 
contained  MSS.  of  some  value,  which 
were  sent  by  Sir  B.  Frere  to  Bombay. 
He  also  preserved  the  portico  by  build- 
ing a  solid  square  prop  and  other  sup- 
ports. The  ^eater  portion  of  tne 
MSS.,  it  is  said,  were  previously  re- 
moved by  Aurangzib.  Remark  here  a 
very  fine  piece  of  ruddy  marble  with 
shells  embedded  in  it,  which  is  in  one 
of  the  arches  of  the  portico.  The  flight 
of  stairs  ascends  to  a  hall  81  ft.  long 
and  27  ft.  broad,  where  a  few  of  the 
fine  carpets  which  the  palace  once  con- 
tained are  shown.  Opening  rt.  from 
this  hall  is  an  upper  verandah  or  ante- 
chamber which  looks  down  into  the 
portico  (already  described)  below.  Its 
ceilings  and  walk  have  been  gilt ;  the 
doors  are  inlaid  with  ivory  ;  and  in 
the  palmy  days  of  Bijapur  the  effect 
must  have  been  very  strildng.  In  the 
N.  wall  is  the  entrance  to  the  room  in 
which  the  sacred  hair  is  kept,  and  this 
is  opened  only  once  a  year.  Two  rooms 
to  the  S.  are  beautituUy  painted  with 
vases  of  flowers.  All  these  rooms  were 
defaced  and  spoiled  by  the  Marathas. 
The  Kaja  himself  is  said  to  have  set 
the  example  in  scrai)ing  off"  the  gilding, 
and  his  followers  imitated  him  only  too 
well.  They  picked  out  the  ivory  that 
inlaid  the  doors,  and  otherwise  so  in- 
jured the  rooms  as  to  reduce  this  once 
splendid  palace  to  the  state  of  an 
unsightly  bam.  It  is  also  stated  that 
Aurangzib  was  so  incensed  at  seeing 
paintings  of  figures  on  the  walls  of  a 
Duilding  devoted  to  a  sacred  purpose, 
that  he  directed  the  faces  to  be  obliter- 
ated. The  Asar  -  i  -  Sharif  formerly 
communicated  on  its  W.  side  with  the 
citadel  by  means  of  a  bridge,  of  which 
nothing  now  remains  but  the  piers. 
Originally  built  as  a  court  of  justice  by 
Muhammad  Shah  about  1646,  it  suc- 
ceeded to  the  honour  of  holding  the 
precious  relics  of  the  Prophet  after  a 
similar  building  within  the  citadel 
had  been  burned  down. 

The  Arkilla  or  Citadel.— The  only 


citadel  gateway  that  remains  is  at  the 
extreme  S.,  facing  E. ;  here  the  walls 
are  thick  with  ancient  pillars  and 
sculptured  stones,  taken  from  Jain 
temples  which  probably  stood  on  this 
ST>ot  when  the  Mohammedans  stormed 
the  citadeL  The  temples  were  demol- 
ished by  them  and  many  of  the  stones 
were  used  in  rebuilding  the  walli ; 
the  rest  were  utilised  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  2  *  *old  mosques"  within  the 
citadel. 

The  Old  Mosque  (12),  a  Jain  temple 
converted  into  a  mosque,  is  within  the 
citadel  N.  W.  of  the  gate.  The  central 
mandapam,  or  hall,  two  stories  high, 
serves  as  the  porch.  The  inner  door- 
way, with  its  perforated  screens,  is 
Mohammedan  work.  The  mosque 
proper  is  made  up  of  Hindu  or  Jain 
pillars  of  various  patterns  and  heights. 
At  the  N.  side,  about  the  centre  row, 
notice  a  wonderfully  handsome  and 
elaborately  carved  black  pillar,  and  to 
the  N.E.  of  it  an  ancient  Eanarese  in- 
scription. On  several  of  the  piUars 
around  are  inscriptions,  some  in  San- 
scrit and  some  in  Kanarese.  One  bears 
the  date  1320. 

The  Anand  Mahal  (18),  or  "palace 
of  joy,"  where  the  ladies  of  the  seraelio 
lived,  is  in  the  centre  of  the  citadel. 
It  was  built  by  Ibrahim  II.  in  1589, 
and  intended  partly  for  his  own  use, 
but  the  facade  was  never  finished.  It 
contains  a  very  fine  hall,  and  is  now 
the  Assistant-Collector's  residence. 

The  Gagan  Mahal  (14),  or  "heavenly 
palace,"  supposed  to  have  been  built 
by  'AU  'Adil  Shah  I.,  is  on  the  W.  of 
the  citadel  close  to  the  moat,  and  faces 
N.  It  has  three  magnificent  arches. 
The  span  of  the  central  one  is  61  ft, 
and  that  of  each  of  the  side  arches  18 
ft.  The  height  of  all  three  is  the  same, 
about  50  ft.  It  was  used  as  a  Durbar 
Hall,  and  on  the  roof  was  a  gaUeiy 
from  which  the  ladies  could  see  what 
occurred  on  the  open  space  in  front 
It  is  said  that  here  Aurangzib  received 
the  submission  of  the  king  and  the 
nobles  on  the  fall  of  Bijapur. 

A  small  building  to  the  S.E.  of  the 
Gagan  Mahal  has  been  converted  into 

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BOUTE  23.      BIJAPUB 


ao9 


(he  Station  Church  (15).  In  plan  it  is 
1  square ;  the  roof  is  supported  by  4 
pillars,  and  it  is  decorated  with  ex- 
quisite relief  patterns  in  flat  plaster- 
work.  The  beautifully  wrought  iron 
screen  was  found  in  the  Chini  Mahal. 

About  160  yds.  to  the  N.E.  of  the 
Gagan  Mahal  is  another  old  mosque  (16) 
bunt  with  the  stones  of  a  Jain  temple. 
It  has  ten  rows  of  pillars  seven  deep. 

On  the  extreme  W.  of  the  citadel  is 
the  Sat  Manjli  (17),  or  "seven  stories," 
a  pleasure-palace  or  perhaps  a  watch- 
tower,  from  the  top  of  which  the  whole 
city  could  be  overlooked.  These  strange 
many-storied  buildings  are  not  un- 
common in  India, — e.g.  there  is  a  very 
perfect  one  at  Fatehpur-Sikri.  Of 
this  onl^  5  stories  now  remain.  One 
peculiarity  is  the  number  of  water- 
pipes  and  cisterns  round  about  it.  It 
formed  the  N.E.  comer  of  a  vast  build- 
ing wrongly  called  the  Oranary  (18), 
which  was  probably  the  public  palace 
of  the  kings,  where  their  public  and 
private  audiences  were  held. 

At  the  S.  end  of  this  building  is  a 
palace  which  at  one  time  must  have 
teen  of  considerable  importance.  It  is 
called  the  Chini  Mahal  (19),  from  the 
quantity  of  broken  china  found  there, 
and  possesses  a  fine  hall  128  ft.  long. 

In  front  of  the  Granary,  in  the  centre 
of  the  road,  stands  a  beautifully  orna- 
mented little  pavilion  (20),  the  purpose 
of  which  is  unknown.  From  this  the 
moat  of  the  citadel  is  crossed  by  a 
causeway  140  ft.  long,  but  the  average 
breadth  of  the  moat  may  be  taken  as 
150  ft 

Within  the  citadel  and  to  the  N.E. 
of  the  gateway  is  the  Makka  Musjid 
(21),  a  miniature  mosque  of  beautiful 
proportions  and  great  simplicity  of 
design.  The  massive  minarets  at  the 
comers  of  the  high  walls  which  surround 
it  in  all  probabili^  belonged  to  an 
earlier  building.  The  facade  of  the 
mosque  proper  has  6  bays  of  arches 
about  8  ft.  high,  is  2  bays  deep,  and  is 
surmounted  by  a  dome. 

Immediately  to  the  W,  19  a  huge 


walled  space  which  is  thought  to  have 
been  an  elephant  stable  (21a),  and 
adjoining  it  S.  is  a  tower  which  was 
probably  used  for  the  storage  of  grain. 

The  unfinished  Tomb  of  'AU  'AdU 
Shah  II.  (22)  is  to  the  N.  of  the  citadel. 
It  is  a  noble  ruin,  a  square  with  seven 
large  Gothic -looking  arches  on  each 
side,  constructed  on  a  terrace  15  ft. 
high,  and  215  ft.  sq.  Had  not  the 
death  of  the  Sultan  put  a  stop  to  its 
progi'ess,  and  prevented  its  comnletion 
m  conformity  with  the  original  design, 
it  would  have  surpassed  every  other 
building  at  Bijapur,  both  in  ma^ifi- 
cence  and  size.  The  cenotaph  is  in 
the  centre  enclosure,  which  is  78  ft. 
sq.,  and  if  completed  would  have  been 
crowned  by  a  dome. 

Close  to  this  tomb  on  the  S.W.  is 
Bukhara  Musjid,  now  the  Post  Office 

(23). 

To  the  W.  of  the  city,  and  near  the 
Makka  Gate,  are  2  domed  tombs  close 
together  and  very  much  alike,  known 
by  Europeans  as  **Tne  Two  Sisters" 
(24).  The  octagonal  one  (now  the  house 
of  the  Executive  Engineer)  contains 
the  remains  of  K7Mn  Muhammad^ 
assassinated  at  the  mstigation  of  Sultan 
Muhammad  for  his  treacherous  dealings 
with  Aurangzib,  and  of  his  son  K ha  was 
KhaUy  Vazir  to  Sikandar.  The  dome 
is  nearly  complete,  and  springs  from  a 
band  of  lozenge-shaped  leaves.  The 
space  within  forms  a  beautiful  room. 
The  square  building  is  the  mausoleum 
of  Abdul  Razakf  the  religious  tutor  of 
Khawas  Khan.  It  is  a  large  building, 
now  much  decayed.  Near  it  S.  is  the 
Tomby  with  its  unfinished  brick  dome, 
of  Kishwar  Khan^  whose  father,  Asad 
Khan,  is  repeatedly  mentioned  by  the 
Portuguese.  He  founded  the  fort  of 
Dharur,  in  the  time  of  'Ali  'Adil  Shah 
I.,  and  was  taken  and  put  to  death  by 
one  of  the  Nizam  Shahi  kings. 

The  Andu  Musjid  (25),  1608,  stands 
on  the  E.  side  of  the  road  which  nins 
S.  from  the  citadel.  It  is  a  2-storied 
building,  the  lower  part  fomiinga  hall 
and  the  upper  part  the  mosijue  projier 
and  its  small  court.  The  facade  has  3 
bays,  it  is  surmounted  by  a  fluted  dome 

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ROUTE  23.       HOTGI  TO  DHABWAR 


IndCa 


and  4  small  minarets,  and  the  masonry 
and  workmanship  are  finer  than  that 
of  any  other  building  in  Bijapnr. 

Khcmaa  KharCB  MahcU  is  700  ft.  N. 
of  the  Jumma  Muq'id.  Yakvi  DabtU'Cs 
Tambtaid  Mosque  are  N.E.  of  the  citadeL 
The  tomb  is  square  with  stone  lattice- 
work screens.  It  was  Yakut  Dabuli 
who  decorated  the  mihrab  of  the  Jumma 
Musjid.  Naioab Mustafa KhajCsMosqiief 
600  yds.  E.  of  the  citadel,  is  a  lofty 
building  with  a  fa9ade  of  8  arches  and 
a  central  dome  supported  on  penden- 
tives.  Behind  the  mosque  W.  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Khan's  Palace.  Mustafa 
Khan  Ardistani  was  a  distinguished 
nobleman  at  the  court  of  'All  'Adil 
Shah  I.,  and  was  murdered  in  1581  a.d. 
by  Eishwar  Khan,  who  usurped  the 
regency  in  the  time  of  Ibrahim  'Adil 
Shah  II. 

Outside  the  W.  wall  of  the  city  is 
The  Ibrahim  Boza  (pronounced 
rauza)  (26),  a  group  of  buildings  which 
includes  the  tombs  of  Ibrahim  (II.) 
'Adil  Shah,  his  Queen  Taj  Sultana,  and 
4  other  members  of  his  &mily.  Dr. 
Bird  says  truly,  "this  tomb  is  de- 
cidedly the  most  chaste  in  design  and 
classical  in  execution  of  all  the  works 
which  the  Byapur  sovereigns  have  left 
behind  them."  The  Ibrahim  Roza  is 
400  yds.  W.  of  the  Makka  Gate.  This 
magnificent  building  is  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  a  rersian  architect. 
It  is  enclosed  by  a  strong  widl  with  a 
lofty  gateway.  The  courtyard  within 
was  once  a  garden  ;  in  the  centre  of  it 
is  raised  an  oblong  platform  upon  which 
stands  the  tomb,  and  to  the  W.  of  it  a 
mosque,  with  a  fountain  and  reservoir 
between  them.  The  5  arches  which 
form  the  £.  fa9ade  of  the  Mosque  are 
very  graceful ;  above  them,  under  the 
rich  cornice,  hang  heavv  chains  cut  out 
of  stone.  On  each  of  the  four  sides  of 
the  Tonib  is  a  colonnade  of  7  arches, 
forming  a  verandah  15  ft.  broad  round 
the  whole  edifice.  The  pavement  of  this 
colonnade  is  slightly  elevated,  and  its 
ceiling  is  exquisitely  carved  with  verses 
of  the  Koran,  enclosed  in  compartments 
and  interspersed  with  wreaths  of  flowers. 
The  letters  were  originally  gilt,  and  the 
ground  is  still  a  most  brilliant  azuT^, 


In  some  places  the  gilding  also  stfll 
remains.  The  border  of  every  oom> 
partment  is  different  from  that  of  the 
one  adjoining.  The  windows  aie 
formed  of  lattice-work  of  Arabic  sen- 
tences, cut  out  of  stone  slabs,  the  spaos 
between  each  letter  admitting  ths 
light  This  work  is  so  admirably  exe* 
cuted,  that  Colonel  Sykes  declares  then 
is  nothing  to  surpass  it  in  Indi^ 
Above  the  double  arcade  outside  the 
building  is  a  magnificent  cornice  with 
a  minaret  four  stories  high  at  eadi 
comer  and  eight  smaller  ones  between 
them.  From  an  inner  cornice,  with 
four  minarets  on  each  side,  rises  the 
dome.  The  plan  of  the  building  re- 
sembles that  of  the  tombs  at  Golkonda. 
The  principal  apartment  in  the  tomb 
is  40  ft.  sq^.,  with  a  stone-slab  roof  per- 
fectly flat  m  the  centre,  and  supported 
only  bv  a  cove  projecting  10  ft.  from 
the  waUs  on  every  side.  '  *  How  the  roof 
is  supported  is  a  mvsteiy  which  can 
onljr  he  understood  bv  those  who  are 
familiar  with  the  use  tne  Indians  make 
of  masses  of  concrete,  which,  with  good 
mortar,  seems  capable  of  infinite  ap- 
plications unknown  in  Europe.  Above 
this  apartment  is  another  in  the  dome 
as  ornamental  as  the  one  below  it, 
though  its  onl;^  object  is  to  obtain  ex- 
ternally the  height  required  for  archi- 
tectural effect,  and  access  to  its  interior 
can  only  be  obtained  by  a  dark,  narrow 
staircase  in  the  thickness  of  the  wall."  ^ 
Over  the  N.  door  is  an  inscription  in 
Persian,  extolling  the  building  in  very 
exaggerated  terms.  The  last  line  is  a 
chronogram,  which  gives  the  date 
1036  A.  H.  =  1626  A.  D.  Over  the  S.  door 
is  another  inscription  in  praise  of  the 
monarch,  with  the  date  1633.  Over 
the  same  door  is  inscribed — 

[Translation,] 
The  work  of  beaatifVing  this  MauBoleiun  wm 
completed  by  Malik  SandaLt 


1  From  Fergnsson's  Hist,  of  Indian  ArA. 
The  aathor  also  eays  "that  Ibrahim,  wanied 
by  the  fkte  of  his  predecessor's  tomb,  com- 
menced his  own  on  so  small  a  plan,  116  ft. 
sq.,  that  it  was  only  by  ornament  that  he  could 
render  it  worthy  of  himself*  Refer  to  Fw- 
gusson  also  for  further  information  conoenting 
this  exquisite  building. 

s  The  tomb  of  thi»  personage  is  at  Tikota. 
i  m.  W.  of  the  Makka  Gate. 


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311 


T|i>143iiltan  issued  orders  for  tlie  oonstraction 

of  thisBoza, 
M  the  beanty  of  which  Far&dise  stood  amazed. 
Bb  expended  oyer  it  1^  lakhs  of  hnns, 
^d  900  more. 

Ihe  htm  being  3}  rs.,  the  total  expense 
¥88  about  £70,000.  When  Aurangzib 
iiesieged  B^apur  in  1686  he  took  up  his 
([xiarters  in  the  Ibrahim  Roza,  which 
received  some  damage  from  the  B\japar 
guns.  These  iinuries  were  partially 
repaired  by  the  Kajah  of  Satara,  but 
the  restoration  was  completed  by  the 
English. 

Gnns  and  BastionB. — The  Buxj-i- 
Sherza,  or  "Lion  Bastion"  (27),  so 
called  from  being  ornamented  by  two 
lions'  heads  in  stone,  is  500  yds.  S.  of 
the  Shahpur  Gate.  On  the  i^ht-hand 
side  on  ascendin^^  the  steps  of  the  bas- 
tion is  an  inscnption  stating  that  it 
was  bnilt  in  five  months,  and  giving 
the  date  1671.  On  the  top  of  this 
bastion  is  a  huge  gun,  called  the  Malik- 
i-Maidan,  "Lord  of  the  Plain."  On 
either  side  of  the  muzzle  the  represent- 
ation of  the  mouth  of  a  monster 
swallowing  an  elephant  is  wrought  in 
relief.  It  was  cast  at  Ahmednagar  in 
a  blue  metal  which  takes  a  very  high 
polish.  It  is  14  ft.  long,  the  circum- 
ference is  about  13  ft.  6  in.,  and  the 
disumeter  of  the  bore  is  2  ft.  4  in.  Just 
above  the  touch-hole  is  the  following 
inscription : — 

The  work  of  Muhammad  Bin  Hosain  Bumi. 
At  the  muzzle  is  the  following : — 

The  servant  of  the  family  of  the  Prophet  of 
God,  Abu'l  Ghazi  Nizam  Bhah,  966  a.h.» 
1551  A-D. 

At  the  muzzle  is  also — 
In  the  80th  year  of  the  exalted  reign, 
1097  A.H..  Shah  'Alarogir,  conqueror  of  infi- 
dels, King,  Defender  of  the  f^iith, 
Conquered  By  apor,  and  for  the  date  of  his 

torinmph, 
He  ftilflUed  what  Justice  required,  and  an- 
nexed the  territory  of  the  Shahs, 
Success  showed  itself,  and  he  took  the  Malik- 
i-Uaidan. 

About  150  vds.  £.  of  the  Sherza  Buij 
is  a  stranffe  building,  called  the  Upxi 
Bar),  or  Upper  Bastion,  also  called  the 
Sdidar  Bwri  (28),  after  a  general  of 
'All  I.  and  Ibrahim  II.  It  is  a  tower 
61  ft.  high,  oval  in  plan,  with  an  out- 
440  ^tairoaso.    On  the  way  up  will  be 


noticed  a  Persian  inscription  recording 
the  building  of  the  tower  in  1583. 

On  the  top  are  two  guns  made  of 
longitudinal  oars  held  together  with 
iron  bands.  The  larc^er,  called  the 
Lamcharri,  "far  flier, '^ is  80  ft.  8  in. 
long,  and  has  a  diameter  of  2  ft.  5  in. 
at  the  muzzle,  and  3  ft.  at  the  breech  ; 
the  bore  is  12  in.  in  diameter.  The 
other  gun  is  19  ft.  10  in.  long,  with  1 
ft  diameter  at  the  muzzle,  and  1  ft.  6 
in.  diameter  at  breech.  In  addition  to 
these  there  are  several  other  large  guns 
lying  about  Bijapur. 

There  are  several  Tanks  in  Bijapur. 
The  principal  one  is  the  Taj  Baoli,  or 
"Crown  WeU"  (29).  It  is  100  yds. 
E.  of  the  Makka  Gate.  The  E.  wing 
of  the  facade  of  the  tank  is  partly 
ruined  and  partly  used  as  a  Eanarese 
schooL  The  W.  wing  is  occupied  by 
the  municipal  offices.  Two  flights  of 
steps  lead  down  to  the  water  beneath 
an  arch  of  34  ft.  span,  and  about  the 
same  height,  flanked  by  2  tall  octagonal 
towers.  The  tank  at  the  water's  edge 
is  231  ft.  sq.  The  water  comes  partly 
from  springs  and  partly  from  drainage, 
and  is  30  fL  deep  in  the  dry  weather. 
There  are  many  fish  in  it.  Colonel 
Sykes  states  that  it  was  built  by  Malik 
Sandal  in  Sultan  Muhammad's  reign  ; 
but  according  to  Dr.  Bird  it  was  the 
work  of  the  Yazir  of  Sultan  Muham- 
mad. In  the  arcade  to  the  right  of 
the  weU  remark  the  curious  roof,  the 
rafters  of  which  are  of  stone. 

Water  Works. —Bijapurwas  supplied 
with  abundant  water  by  underground 
ducts.  One  source  of  supply  was  a 
spring  beyond  the  suburb  of  Torwah, 
5  m.  W.  of  the  citadel ;  another  was 
the  Begam  Tank,  3  m.  to  the  S. 
Along  uie  line  of  the  supply  water 
occur  towers  supposed  to  be  for  the  pur- 
pose of  relieving  the  pressure  in  the 
pipes.  The  people  evidently  appreci- 
ated the  advantage  of  having  plenty 
of  cool  water  about  them,  and  traces  of 
innumerable  baths  and  cisterns  are 
found  in  every  direction.  The  water 
from  the  reservoirs,  for  instance,  in  the 
ruined  palace  of  Mustafa  Ehan,  ran  into 
a  tank,  from  which  it  brimmed  over 

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EOUTE  23.      HOTGI  TO  DHARWAR 


Ifdm 


into  narrow  stone  channels,  which 
passed  in  circnitous  courses  through  the 
gardens,  passing  over  uneven  surfaces  to 
give  it  a  sparkling  and  rippling  effect. 
Many  days  might  well  De  spent  in 
exploring  the  neighbourhood  and  visit- 
ing the  numerous  objects  of  minor 
interest  in  which  Bijapur  abounds,  but 
which  it  is  beyond  tne  scope  of  this 
book  even  to  mention. 

From  Bijapur  the  line  continues  to 
132  m.  Badami  sta.  The  N.  fort  of 
Badami  is  to  the  N.E.  of  the  town, 
and  on  the  heights  above  are  some 
picturesque  temples.  To  the  S.  is 
another  rocky  fort-crowned  hill,  in  the 
face  of  which  are  four  cave -temples. 
The  two  hills  (about  400  ft.  high) 
approach  so  close  to  each  other  as  to 
leave  only  a  gorge,  into  which  the  town 
extends.     Near  it  is  a  fine  tank. 

The  Forts  are  no  doubt  of  extreme 
antiquity,  and  in  some  shape  or  other 
probably  existed  as  long  back  as  the 
Christian  era.  Little  or  nothingisknown 
of  their  ancient  history.  In  1786 
Badami  was  in  the  possession  of  Tipu 
Sahib,  and  was  attacked  by  the  armies 
of  Nizam  'Ali  and  the  Peshwa  Mhadu 
Rao.  Their  operations  at  first  were  not 
successful,  "but  it  was  determined  to 
try  the  effect  of  an  escalade.  On  the 
morning  of  the  20th  of  May  20,000 
infantry  of  the  confederate  armies  were 
drawn  up  for  that  service.  The  garri- 
son, consisting  of  upwards  of  3500  men, 
manned  the  works  to  oppose  them ; 
and  when  the  assailants  advanced, 
which  they  did  with  great  resolution, 
they  founa  the  ditch  and  covered-way 
full  of  mines,  which  were  fired,  and 
proved  exceedingly  destructive ;  but 
the  Marathas  and  Moguls,  vjdng  with 
each  other,  rushed  forward  in  a  most 
impetuous  though  tumultuous  manner, 
applied  ladders,  mounted  the  walls  in 
various  places,  and,  except  a  slight 
check  sustained  at  the  citadel,  carried 
all  before  them  within  the  town. "  The 
garrison  fled  to  the  forts  above,  and 
rolled  down  huge  stones  upon  their 
assailants,  whose  **  casualties  were 
numerous  ;  but  the  garrison,  becoming 
intimidated  at  their  furious  and  perse- 
vering  attack,  offered  to  surrender  if 


their  lives  were  spared,  a  condition 
which  was  immediately  granted."  (See 
Grant  Duff,  voL  iiL  p.  10.)  The  fort 
was  taken  by  the  British  under  Sir 
Thomas  Munro  in  1818. 

The  F&rt  upon  the  N.  hill  in  its 
lower  part  includes  much  of  the  toin, 
and  this  part  is  defended  by  a  ditch 
50  ft.  deep.      To  view  the  fort  the 
traveller  should  start  very  early  in  4e 
morning,  and  proceed  to  tne  gate  of  lie 
lower  fort,  which  faces  to  the  S.W.; 
and  soon  after  passing  it,  and  leaviig 
on  the  left  a   Temple  of  Sanum\ 
ascend  120  ft.  to  a  Temple  o/MahaM 
built  of  hard  sandstone,  whence  he  will 
have  an  excellent  view  over  the  towi 
and  hills.     Above  the  Temple  of  Maha- 
deo  rises  a  scarped  rock  90  ft  high, 
round  the  edge  of  which  runs  |»rt  of 
the  wall  of  tne  upper  fort,  which  is 
now  quite  deserted,  only  one  iron  gun, 
about  10  ft  long,  remaining.    There 
are  two  or  three  other  temples,  mostly 
in  the  upper  fort,  which  have  a  very 
picturesque  appearance.      Descending 
from   the  Temple   of   Mahadeo,  aud 
passing  along  to  the  E.  portion  of  the 
town,  and  close  to  the  S.  hill,  will  be 
seen  two  Mohammedan  tombs  and  & 
mosque  with  several  inscriptions  m  the 
Tugnra  character  about  two  centuries 
old. 

The  S.  hill  is  also  crowned  with  a 
Fort  J  and  contains  in  its  W.  face  four 
Cave  Temples,  which  have  rendered 
Badami  celebrated,  thouj^h  the  natiiral 
beauties  of  the  scenery  might  well  have 
done  so  without  assistance  from  art 

The  First  Cave  is  about  30  ft.  from 
the  ground,  and  faces  W.  Mr.  Burgess 
has  given  views  of  these  caves,  and  an 
exceUent  account  of  them.  He  says : 
"They  stand  as  to  arrangement  of 
parts  between  the  Buddhist  viharas 
and  the  later  Brahmanical  examples 
at  Ellora,  Elephanta,  and  Salsette. 
The  front  wall  of  the  Buddhist  vihara, 
with  its  small  windows  and  doors,  ad- 
mitted too  little  light ;  and  so  here, 
while  retaining  the  verandah  in  front, 
and  further  protecting  the  cave  from 
rain  and  sun  by  projecting  eaves,  the 
front  of  the  Shala,  or  *  hall,'  was  made 
quite  open,  except  the  spaces  between 
tne  waifs  and  the  first  piUars  from  escb 


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ROUTE  23.      BAD  AMI 


313 


eni  In  the  sculptures,  at  least  of  the 
second  and  third  caves,  Vishnu  occupies 
the  most  prominent  place.  In  style 
they  vary  much  in  details,  but  can 
sctrcely  diiler  much  in  age  ;  and  as  the 
tMrd  contains  an  inscription  of  Man- 
gileshvara,  dated  Shaka  600  =  578 
A.D.,  we  cannot  be  far  wrong  in  attri- 
batmg  them  all  to  the  6th  cent  The 
inportance  of  this  date  can  scarcely 
be  overestimated,  as  it  is  the  first  of 
ttie  kind  yet  discovered  in  a  Brahmani- 
eal  cave."  In  the  fa9ade  of  the  first 
cave  are  four  piUars  and  two  pilasters. 
The  two  pillars  to  the  S.  have  been 
broken  by  lightning,  and  are  now 
supported  by  wooden  blocks.  The 
piUars  are  slightly  carved  in  relief,  to 
about  half-way  from  the  top.  On  the 
left  of  the  cave  is  a  dwarpal,  with  a 
Nandi  over  him.  Opposite  tnis  dwarpal 
is  a  figure  of  Shiva,  6  ft.  high,  with 
eighteen  arms.  There  is  a  head  of  a 
bull  and  Ganpati  and  musicians.  Be- 
yond the  facade  is  a  passage,  or  verandah. 
On  the  left  is  Vishnu  or  Harihara,  with 
four  hands,  holding  the  usual  symbols. 
On  the  right  is  Lakshmi,  with  an 
attendant.  The  whole  rests  on  a 
stylobate,  along  the  front  of  which  are 
Ganas  (dwarf  attendants  of  Shiva)  in 
all  sorts  of  attitudes.  On  a  platform 
to  the  right  is  Shiva  with  Parbati  and 
Nandi  On  the  back  wall  is  a  figure 
of  Maheshasuri  or  Durga  destroying 
the  buffalo -demon  Maheshasur.  She 
has  four  arms,  and  holds  up  the  buffalo  by 
the  tail,  while  her  spear-head  transfixes 
its  neck.  In  one  hand  she  holds  the 
discus,  or  Chakra,  in  another  the  spear, 
in  the  third  a  conch,  and  in  the  fourth 
the  buffalo's  taiL  On  the  right  wall  is 
Gannati,  and  on  the  left  Skanda.  Be- 
yond the  passage  is  a  chamber,  with 
two  pillars  carved  from  the  capitals  to 
the  middle.  Inside  are  two  rows  of 
pillars.  The  ceiling  of  the  passage,  as 
well  as  that  of  the  chamber,  is  carved 
in  relief.  From  this  temple  flights  of 
steps  lead  up  to  the 

Second  Cave  Temple.  From  the 
platform  thus  reached  is  a  fine  view^ 
over  the  tank,  and  to  the  N.  fort.  The 
fayade  has  four  pillars  carved  from  the 
middle  upwards,  and  four  scalloped 
ftwhes,    it  faces  N,     In  front  of  it  are 


three  pinnacles  of  perpendicular  rock. 
There  are  two  dwarpals  with  a  female 
attendant.  At  the  K  end  of  the 
verandah,  to  the  left  of  the  spectator, 
is  the  Varaha,  or  Vishnu  in  the  form 
of  a  boar.  Below  are  Shesha,  the  1000- 
headed  snake,  depicted  with  a  human 
head,  and  a  female  figm-e.  A  group  of 
figures  is  succeeded  by  Vishnu,  dilated 
to  an  immense  size,  putting  one  foot 
on  the  earth  and  lifting  the  other  over 
the  heavens.  The  same  subject  is 
depicted  at  the  Seven  Pagodas,  and  at 
Elephanta.  On  the  ceiling  in  front  of 
this  is  Vishnu  with  four  arms,  riding 
on  Garuda.  On  the  top  of  the  wall, 
in  a  frieze,  are  the  figures  of  Vishnu 
and  Shesha.  In  the  central  square  of 
the  ceiling  is  a  lotus  with  sixteen  fishes 
round  it.  The  corbels  supporting  the 
verandah  are  strange,  vampire -like 
figures.  The  frieze  of  the  cornice  all 
round  is  carved  with  groups  of  figures. 
The  entrance  to  the  inner  chamber 
from  the  verandah  is  like  that  of  the 
first  cave ;  the  roof  of  the  chamber  is 
supported  bv  eight  pillars ;  and  the 
corbels  are  lions,  human  figures,  vam- 
pires, elephants,  etc.  The  adytum  has 
only  a  square  Chavaranga^  or  altar. 
On  the  architrave  in  the  middle 
compartment  are  several  groups,  such 
as  a  woman  on  a  couch  nursing  a  child. 
The  figures  that  support  the  cross- 
beams iare  some  of  them  very  spmted. 

A  sloping  ascent  and  more  flights 
of  steps  lead  up  to  a  platform,  and  a 
few  steps  beyond  is  a  doorway  ;  on  the 
right  of  it  is  an  inscription  in  old  Kan- 
arese.  At  the  top  of  one  other  flight 
of  steps  is  the  platform  in  front  of  the 

Third  Cave.  Above  the  facade  of  th  is 
cave  is  a  scarp  of  100  ft.  of  perpendicu- 
lar rock.  This  cave,  says  Mr.  Burgess, 
is  **by  far  the  finest  of  the  series,  and, 
in  some  respects,  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting Brahmanical  works  in  India." 
The  fa9ade  is  72  ft.  from  N.  to  S.,  and 
has  six  square  pillars  and  two  pilasters 
12^  ft.  high.  Eleven  steps  lead  up  to 
the  cave,  and  thus  a  stylobate  is  formed 
on  which  Ganas  are  reiiresent^d  in 
relief.  The  brackets  of  the  pillars 
represent  male  and  female  figures, 
Arddhanarishvara,  Shiva,  and  Parbati, 
and  Oft  the  columns  themselves  are 

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314 


ROUTE  23.       HOTQI  TO  DHARWAB 


India 


oarved  elaborate  festoons,  and  below 
medallions  with  groups  of  figures. 
Traces  of  painting  are  visible  on  the 
under-side  of  the  eaves  and  the  roof  of 


Gay«  at  BadAinl,  from  a  plan  by  Dr.  Burgess. 

the  verandah.  At  the  W.  end  of  the 
verandah  is  a  statue  of  Narsing,  the 
fourth  incarnation  of  Vishnu,  a  very 
spirited  figure,  11  ft.  high.  On  the  S. 
wall  is  Shiva,  of  the  same  height  At 
the  E.  end  is  Narayan,  seated  under 
Sheshnag.  The  moulding  of  the 
features  is  very  good  and  expressive  of 
repose.  On  the  left  of  this  figure  is  the 
Varaha  incarnation ;  to  the  right  an 
inscription  in  Eanarese.  The  chamber 
is  35  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  38  ft.  from 
N.  to  S.,  and  16i  ft  high.  A  very 
deep  eave  projects  in  front  of  the  ver- 
andah, witn  an  alto-relievo  carving  of 
Garuda.  On  the  rock  to  the  left  of  the 
cave  is  an  inscription.  £.  of  this  cave 
is  a  wall  7  ft.  high,  which  separates  the 
F<rwrthf  or  Jain  Cave,  from  the  other 
three,  which  are  BrahmanicaL  The 
platform  beyond  the  wall  overlooks 
the  lake  or  tank,  and  commands  a  fine 
view.  The  descent  is  very  steep  and 
covered  with  bushes.  A  broad  over- 
hanging eave  has  been  cut  out  of  the 
rock  in  front  of  this  cave,  with  Garuda 
as  its  central  ornament  inside.  The 
faijade  has  four  carved  pillars  and  two 
pilasters,  with  scalloped  arches  between. 
On  the  left  of  the  verandah  is  a  Jain 
divinitjr,  with  bands  round  his  thighs, 
and  cobras  coming  out  below  his  feet 
On  the  ri^ht  of  the  verandah  is  a 
Buddha,  with  the  Sheshnag  over  his 


head.  There  are  two  pillais  in  bout) 
and  two  richly  ornamented  pilaito& 
There  are  also  four  rows  of  figiues,  vitb 
Buddha  in  the  centre.  Beyond  is  tiie 
Adytum,  a  recess  oontaimng  anothv 
image  of  Buddha.  From  the  verandib 
a  fii^ht  of  steps  leads  up  to  the  door  of 
the  fort 

Visitors  in  descending  will  not  fail 
to  be  amused  with  the  monkeys,  wUdi 
oome  out  on  the  scarped  face  of  ftie 
rock,  and  sometimes  endeavov  to 
push  one  another  down  the  predpke. 
At  the  head  of  the  lake  a  large  miss 
of  the  rock  has  fallen,  and  forms  wlut 
may  be  called  a 

Fifth  Caw,  The  entrance  is  Vy  i 
hole,  through  which  one  must  crail 
Against  the  rock  at  the  back  are  a  U19 
and  a  smallJain  figure.  Alittletotbi 
N.W.  of  this  is  a  small  shrine  built 
M;ainst  the  rock,  on  which  are  csmd 
Vishnu  and  Shesha  surrounded  by 
deities.  To  the  N.W.  and  N.  «n 
numerous  other  shrines.  N.E.  of  the 
dharmsala  is  an  old  temple  with  massiTi 
square  pillars,  and  on  the  right  of  the 
door  is  a  Kanarese  inscription.  Then 
are  some  carvings  about  it^  Thii 
temple  is  quite  deserted,  and  ia  infested 
both  by  bats  and  p»anthers. 

The  traveller  will  do  well  to  visit 
the  vilk^  of  Banshanlcar,  where  isi 
temple  to  Parbati,  the  wife  of  Shin 
It  is  about  2  m.  from  Badami,  or  half- 
way between  Badami  and  the  Malpaf- 
ba  River,  On  the  approach  to  it  isi 
small  stone  pavilion,  and  200  ydi 
beyond  is  a  tank  364  ft  sq.  withi 
covered  colonnade.  On  the  W.  side 
there  is  only  a  pavilion  with  foorrovt 
of  pillars.  On  the  K  side  is  a  gbt 
witn  stone  steps  goinff  down  to  tin 
water.  The  tank  is  full  of  fish.  Then 
are  dso  manv  laige  monkeys,  wbi 
bound  along  the  roof  of  the  oolonnadi 
with  surprising  agility.  At  the  N.V. 
corner  of  the  colonnade  is  the  Batli, 
or  chariot  of  the  deity,  26  ft  high ;  the 
larger  wheels  are  7  ft  in  dmmeter.! 
Parbati's  temple  is  on  the  W.  ddfcl 
There  is  also  a  lofty  tower  for  lamp^ 
in  several  tiers.  Beyond  the  temple 
to  the  £.  is  a  fine  stream  of  clear  wattr 
25  ft.  broad,  flowing  amongst  tall  tred 
and  shrubs. 

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ROUTE  23.       SIGHTS  IN  THE  VICINITY  OF  BAD  AMI 


315 


SWHTS  IN  THE  ViOINITT  OF  BaDAMI. 

)  m.  to  the  E.  of  Badamiis  Mahakut, 
wliere  is  a  fine  tank  faced  with  stone ; 
in  it  is  a  veiy  old  Lingam  with  five 
hflids,  three  of  which  are  Brahma, 
VBhnu,  and  Mahadeo.  It  is  called  the 
PiTUikmukJia,  "five-faced."  There  is 
also  a  large  fallen  column,  a  monolith, 
with  three  long  inscriptions,  one  of 
^ich  has  never  been  deciphered. 

AtPattadakal,  5  m.  S.W.  of  Badami, 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Malparba  river, 
ire  several  temples,  both  Brahmanical 
and  Jain,  dating  from  the  7th  or  8th 
century.  Thev  "are  very  pure  ex- 
amples of  the  Dravidian  style  of  archi- 
tecture ;  they  are  all  square  pyramids 
divided  into  distinct  stories,  and  each 
stoiy  ornamented  with  cells  alternately 
oblong  and  square.  Their  style  of 
ornamentation  is  also  very  much  coarser 
than  that  of  the  Chalukya  style,  and 
diflfers  very  much  in  character.  The 
domical  termination  of  the  spires  is 
also  dittereiit,  and  much  less  graceful. 


Temple  at  FattadakaL 


and  the  overhanging  cornices  of  double 
(nirvatore  are  much  more  prominent 
ind  unportant"  (Burgess).  Besides 
these,  the  village  possesses  a  group  of 
temples,  not  remarkable  for  their  size 
)r  architectural  beauty,  but  interesting 
l)ecau8e  they  exhibit  the  two  principid 
ityles  of  Indian  architecture,  in  absolute 
uxtapositioo  (see  Arch,  of  Vhanmr 


amd  Mysore^  pp.  68,  64).  The  Temple 
of  Papnath  is  of  the  N.  style,  and  is 
probably  rather  older  than  that  of 
VirupcLKsha^  which  dates  from  the 
early  part  of  the  8th  century.  The 
Temple  of  Papnath  is  90  ft  long,  in- 
cludmg  the  porch,  and  40  ft.  broad. 
There  are  sixteen  pillars  in  the  hall  and 
four  in  the  inner  chamber,  exclusive  of 
those  in  the  porches. 

At  AiwalH,  5  m.  to  the  N.E.  of 
Badami,  there  are  a  Jain  Cave  and  a 
Brahmanical  CavCf  both  described  by 
Mr.  Burgess.  The  latter  is  to  the  N.  W. 
of  the  viUage.  The  Durga  Temple 
has  some  very  remarkable  carving; 
and  here,  too,  are  many  dolmens. 

174  m.  Gadag  junc-sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
(From  this  point  the  traveller  has  a 
choice  of  railway  routes  taking  him  all 
over  Southern  India  and  to  the  western 
coast  near  Goa  (Rte.  22).  Vyayana- 
gar  (p.  353)  is  about  naif- way  be- 
tween Guntakal  junc  E.  and  Gadag 
June  W.,  and  can  be  equally  wefl 
visited  from  either.) 

Gadagy  anciently  Eratuka,  is  a  town 
of  17,000  inhabitants,  with  the  usual 
offices  of  a  civil  station.  In  its  N.W. 
comer  is  a  Vishnamte  Temple,  The 
entrance  is  under  a  high  gateway,  or 
gopura,  with  four  stories,  and  50  fr. 
high.  The  door  is  handsomely  carved 
with  sixteen  rows  of  figures  in  relief 
on  either  side,  and  opens  into  a  paved 
enclosure,  in  which  is  the  temple,  a 
quite  plain  building,  with  a  well. 
S.W.  of  this,  300  yds.  off,  is  a  temple 
to  Kari  Dev,  "  Black  God."  The  doors 
are  handsomely  carved,  as  is  the  out- 
side of  the  adytum.  This  temple 
resembles  the  principal  temple  at  Lak- 
kundi  (described  below),  and  is  built 
of  the  same  bluish  stone.  At  30  yds. 
S.  of  this  is  another  small  Jain  temple. 

At  the  S."W.  comer  of  the  town  is 
the  Karwar  company's  cotton  factory. 

Close  to  this  is  the  Government 
Telefi;raph  Office  and  the  Mumlutdar's 
CJutcheny. 

In  the  S.  quarter  of  the  town  is  the 
principal  Temple ;  the  only  one  worth 
comine  from  a  long  distance  to  see.  It 
is  dedicated   to   Triinbak^«hyraf  as 

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316 


ROUTE  23.       HOTGI  TO  DHARWAR 


Iniia 


TrikutesJtiwar,  "the  Lord  of  the  three 
peaks. "  There  are  nine  inscriptions  at 
this  temple,  one  of  which  gives  the 
date  1062.  The  first  door  of  the  prin- 
cipal temple  is  36  ft.  from  the  N.  porch. 
An  ante-chamber  25  ft.  deep  leads  into 
the  temple.  The  outside  is  one  mass 
of  most  elaborate  carving.  Two  rows 
of  figures  run  along  the  entire  front 
and  back  ;  those  of  the  lower  row  are 
2  ft.  9  in.  high,  including  their  canopy, 
and  are  156  in  number.  In  the  upper 
row  are  104  figures,  13  in.  high,  52  in 
the  front,  and  the  same  in  the  back  ; 
the  rest  of  the  wall  is  also  ornamented. 
Round  the  outside  of  the  E.  ante- 
chamber are  niches  for  figures,  but  only 
one  figure  remains  whole.  It  is  deli- 
cately carved  and  2  ft.  2  in.  high,  and 
represents  Narayan  ; — ^it  has  a  beauti- 
fully-designed canopy.  The  front  of 
the  temple  to  the  spectator's  ri^ht  is 
hidden  by  a  modem  addition,  which  is 
quite  out  of  keeping  with  it.  The  roof 
is  flat.  Between  the  four  pillars  on  the 
E.  is  a  colossal  bull.  Observe  two 
circular  carved  ornamental  pillars  on 
the  right  of  the  doorway  ;  they  touch 
the  wall,  but  support  nothing.  The 
building  extends  towards  the  W.,  but 
from  the  plain  and  unadorned  style  of 
this  part,  both  outside  and  inside,  one 
is  led  to  think  that  this  is  no  part 
of  the  orig  ^al  building.  None  but 
Hindus  are  avowed  to  enter  this  part  of 
the  temple.  The  conical  roof  appears 
above  the  flat  roof  of  the  passage,  and 
is  beautifully  carved  and  ornamented. 
Immediately  behind  the  main  portion 
of  the  first  temple,  in  the  right-hand 
part  of  the  enclosure,  is  a  Temple  to 
Saraswati.  The  porch  is  the  finest 
part  of  it ;  it  contains  eighteen  pillars, 
some  of  them  exquisitely  carved,  and 
six  pilasters.  The  three  first  of  the 
two  centre  rows  of  pillars  deserve  par- 
ticular notice  for  their  elegance  of  design 
and  exquisite  carving.^    Beyond  this 

1  Col.  M.  Taylor  says :  "It  is  impossible  to 
describe  the  exquisite  finish  of  the  pillar.-  of 
the  interior  of  this  temple,  which  are  of  bhi  k 
hornblemle,  nor  to  estimate  how  they  wee 
complete*!  in  their  present  comlftlon,  without 
they  were  tnrneci  in  a  lathe ;  yet  there  can  be 
little  doubt  that  they  were  set  up  orijfinall.v 
as  rough  masses  of  rock,  and  afterwards  carved 
into  their  present  forms.  The  carving  on 
SOJwe  of  tl^e  pillars  and  of  the  lintels  and 


porch  is  a  deep  recess,  with  the  image 
of  the  goddess  at  the  end.  The  walls  of 
the  inner  recess  are  of  great  thickness, 
and  suggest  the  idea  that  other  recesses 
at  the  sides  may  have  been  built  up. 
These  walls  are  also  finely  carved,  but 
all  the  niches  are  empty.  Around  are 
chambers  for  priests,  and  lodgings  for 
visitors  and  pilgrims.  There  are  one 
or  two  small  shrines  in  the  open  coirt 
To  the  W.  is  another  entrance,  with  a 
porch  similar  to  that  on  the  N.  Tbere 
is  also  in  the  enclosure  a  fine  wll, 
faced  with  solid  stone,  and  with  steps 
leading  do\vn  to  the  water.  There  m 
numerous  inscriptions  at  this  plaee, 
one  of  which  has  the  date  Shaka  790= 
868  A.D. 

Lakkundi  (anciently  Lokkikandi)  is 
about  8  m.  S.E.  of  Gadag,  and  about 
half  that  distance  from  Harlapur  star 
tion.  The  pl«w)e  is  full  of  ancient 
temples.  Close  to  the  W.  entrance  of 
the  town  is  one  with  a  good  mandir. 
A  few  yards  from  this  mandir  is 
another,  in  the  door  of  which  is  a  huge 
bar  of  black  basalt  built  into  the  walls 
on  either  side.  This  bar  is  to  prevent 
animals  from  entering,  and  is  veiy 
much  worn,  showing  the  great  an- 
tiquity of  the  building. 

At  Kashi  VishwanatKs  Temple  the 
faQade  has  been  supported  by  four 
pillars,  of  which  that  to  the  N.  has 
gone.  The  doorways  are  elaborately 
carved.  The  roof  is  quite  ruined.  The 
carving  outside  is  very  elaborate,  and 
altogether  this  temple  is  by  far  the 
handsomest  in  Lakkundi,  and  wdl 
worth  seeing ;  but  being  built  of  coane 
granite,  the  carving  is  not  so  clear  and 
sharply  defined  as,  for  instance,  in  the 
Abu  temples. 

To  the  W.,  on  the  opposite  side  d 
the  road,  is  a  Temple  to  Nandeshwar^ 
or  "Shiva,  lord  of  the  bull  Nandi* 
There  is  a  Kanarese  inscription  on  tlfl 
ledge  of  the  W.  division  of  the  ro<4 
between  the  four  pillars.     This  temfili 

architraves  of  the  doora  is  quite  beyrad 
aciiption.  No  chased  work  in  silver  or  g 
could  possiV)ly  be  finer,  and  the  pattern*  ] 
this  day  are  copied  by  goldsmiths,  wh<i  t«* 
ca  ts  and  moulds  from  them,  bat  fail 
representing  the  sharpness  aud  finisli  of  f 
original." 

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ROUTE  23.      HUBLI — DHARWAR 


317 


itaids  on  the  K.  side  of  a  tank,  which 
it  oeerlooks. 

it  200  yds.  to  the  S.  is  a  Temple  to 
BmavOf  which  is  lar^,  but  only  7  ft 
high.  It  is  a  plain  building,  but 
pitttily  situated  on  the  E.  side  of  the 
talk,  which  is  a  well-known  place  for 
wid  ducks  and  snipe.  The  inner 
chamber  is  8  ft.  sq. 

Inside  the  town,  200  yds.  to  the  W., 
is  a  Temple  to  MaHikwrjuna,  but  the 
people  at  Lakkundi  say  it  is  the  name 
of  a  mountain  at  TirupatL 

100  yds.  farther  W.  is  a  Temple  to 
Tshtoamy  the  roof  of  which  has  fallen 
in.  It  is  veiy  old ;  the  exterior  is 
handsomely  carved,  and  is  said  to  be 
the  work  of  Jakanacharya,  the  great 
sculptor. 

A  narrow  path,  thickly  shaded  for 
about  100  yds. ,  leads  to  a  Baolif  or  well, 
—in  &ct  a  small  tank,  the  sides  of 
which  are  faced  with  stone.  There  are 
flights  of  steps  to  the  water  on  three 
tides,  and  on  either  side  of  the  first  step 
is  an  elephant,  so  well  carved,  that  the 
natives  may  be  believed  when  they  say 
that  it  is  the  work  of  Jakanachaiya. 

About  200  yds.  from  this,  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  tower,  is  a  Temple  to  Mani- 
keshwaTj  a  name  of  Krishna,  so  called 
because  every  day  he  gave  to  Radha  a 
raby,  which  is  called  a  manik.  A  veiy 
pretty  small  tank  adjoins  the  temple. 
It  is  faced  with  stone,  and  has  several 
buttresses  projecting  into  the  water, 
said  to  be  carved  by  Jakanachaiya. 
On  either  side  of  the  entrance  into  the 
temple  are  four  pillars  of  black  basalt. 
There  is  nothing  in  the  inner  chamber  ; 
the  roof  is  pyramidal  Part  of  the 
outer  wall  is  falling.  This  temple  is 
sniTounded  by  beautiful  trees  of  great 


From  Gadag  the  line  turns  W.  to 
210  m.  Hubli  junc.  sta.  (R.)  (line 

8.E.  to  Harihar  (R.)  and  Bangalore, 

Rte.  27). 

222  m.  Dharwar  sta.  (R.),  D.B. 
This  is  a  very  important  centre,  being 
the  headquarters  of  the  Southern 
Klaratha  Rly.  Dharwar  is  a  large 
Ipen  town  in  a  plain,  with  a  pop.  of 

»,ooa 


On  the  K.  is  the  Fort,  which  is  strong, 
though  the  defences  are  of  mud  and 
irregular.  It  has  a  double  wall,  and 
an  outer  and  inner  ditch,  from  25  to  30 
ft.  wide  and  deep.  It  looks  very  deso- 
late and  wretched,  and  there  is  nothing 
remarkable  to  be  seen  either  there  or  in 
the  town.  The  Fort  was  taken  from 
the  Marathas  by  Haidar  'Ali  in  1778, 
and  stood  a  siege  in  1789  from  a  British 
force  co-operating  with  the  Maratha 
army  under  Parshuram  Bhao.  It  next 
belonged  to  Tipu ;  and  one  of  his  ablest 
generals,  Baaru-zaman,  with  7000 
regulars  and  3000  irregulars,  having 
tMOwn  himself  into  it,  defended  it  with 
great  spirit.  After  a  protracted  siege 
of  29  weeks,  the  brave  Badru-zaman 
surrendered  on  condition  of  being 
.allowed  to  march  out  with  all  the 
honours  of  war.  The  allies  took  pos- 
session of  the  fort  on  4th  April,  and 
the  Marathas  attacked  Badru-zaman  as 
he  was  marching  away,  wounded  him, 
made  him  prisoner,  and  dispersed  the 
forces. 

The  Cemetery  at  Dharwar  is  a  little 
to  the  S.W.  of  the  fort  Here  are 
buried  Gapt  Black  and  Lieuts.  Sewell 
and  Dighton,  of  the  Madras  H.  Artil- 
leiy,  "who lost  their  lives  in  gallantly 
attempting  to  quell  the  insurrection  at 
Kittur,  on  the  23d  of  October  1824." 
There  is  a  tablet  to  the  nephew  of  Sir 
T.  Munro,  who  was  killed  on  the  same 
occasion. 

The  Church  at  Dharwar  is  about  1 
m.  to  the  S.  of  the  D.B.  It  belongs 
to  the  Basle  Grerman  Evangelical  Mis- 
sion, and  was  built  in  1844-45.  The 
tower  is  40  ft.  hi^h.  The  service  by 
the  missionaries  is  in  Eanarese,  and 
once  on  Sunday  in  English.  The  can- 
tonments for  the  native  infantry,  to  the 
N.  W.  of  the  fort,  are  quite  2  m.  off. 

About  1^  m.  S.  of  Dharwar  is  a  hill 
called  the  Mailargar.  On  its  summit 
stands  a  small  square  stone  temple, 
built  after  the  Jain  fashion,  and  facing 
the  K  The  columns  and  beams  are 
of  massive  stone,  and  the  roof  of  the 
same  material  is  handsomely  carved. 
On  one  of  the  columns  is  an  inscription 
in  Persian,  recording  that  the  temple 
was  converted  into  a  mosque  in  1680 
by  the  deputy  of  the  King  of  Bijapur 

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tndid 


The  ruins  of  the  Fort  of  Eittur  are 
18  m.  N.  W.  of  Dharwar  by  road.  The 
place  has  been  too  much  destroyed  to 
oe  of  much  interest. 

The  line  continues  W.  to  Castle 
Rock  sta.  (Rte.  22). 


ROUTE  24 

Bombay  to  Madras  by  the  Bor 
Ghat 

RaU  794  m.  Mail  train  about  forty  hours 
in  transit. 

For  the  journey  as  far  as  34  m. 
Ealyan  junc.  sta.  see  Rte.  1 ;  from 
Kalyan  one  branch  of  the  railway  goes 
N.E.  up  the  Tal  Ghat  to  Allahabad 
and  Calcutta,  whilst  the  S.E.  branch 
ascends  the  Bor  Ghat  and  passes 
through  Poona  to  Madras.  Proceed- 
ing by  the  latter  we  reach  at 

88  m.  Ambamath  sta.,  *' Immortal 
Lord,"  a  village  of  300  inhab.  It  gives 
its  name  to  the  district  in  which  the 
town  of  Ealyan  is  situated.  1  m.  E. 
is  the  temple  of  Ambamath  in  a  pretty 
valley.  Dr.  Wilson  regarded  the  temple 
as  decidedly  Shivite.  In  a  niche  on 
the  N.  side  of  the  adytum  is  a  Trimurti, 
or  "  three-headed  Shiva."  The  figure, 
firom  its  multiplex  and  fictitious  heads 
and  skeleton  legs,  is  as  deformed  as  can 
be  imagined.  The  temple  is  an  object 
of  considerable  interest  as  a  specimen 
of  genuine  Hindu  architecture  :  it  faces 
W.,  but  the  mandapam,  or  hall,  in 
front  of  the  shrine  has  doors  also  to 
the  N.  and  S.  The  roofs  of  the  porti- 
coes between  the  lintels  are  covered 
by  carved  slabs  with  beautiful  designs, 
in  which  birds  and  the  heads  of  the  lion 
of  the  south  are  introduced.  The  door 
^'•om   the  portico  into  the  temple  is 


richly  carved.  The  roof  of  the  hall  is 
supported  by  four  elaborately -carved 
columns.  So  rich  and  varied  is  the 
sculpture  on  these  pillars  that  no 
description  could  ^ve  an  adeanate 
idea  of  it.  The  pediment  of  the  door- 
way leading  into  the  vimanah  is  orna- 
mented with  elephants  and  lions,  and 
in  the  centre  with  figures  of  Shiva. 
The  interior  of  the  shrine  shows  how 
carefully  the  long  stones  of  dark  basalt 
were  jomted  and  bedded,  mortar  not 
being  in  use  among  the  Hindus  until 
the  Mohammedan  conquest  Likeili 
Hindu  temples  of  the  northern  style, 
the  outside  of  the  building  is  a  series 
of  projecting  comers.  The  base  isi 
series  of  projecting  and  receding  courses, 
one  of  the  upper  ones  representing  i 
string  of  curious  homed  and  bat-Hke 
faces ;  then  comes  a  band  with 
elephants*  heads  and  small  human 
figures ;  next  a  band  with  half-goat, 
half-bat-like  faces ;  then  a  deeper  coarse 
with  innumerable  human  figures.  A 
curious  belt  of  beautiful  carving  nms 
up  each  face  of  the  vimanah.  An 
inscription  inside  the  lintel  of  the  N. 
door  gives  the  date  of  the  building  of 
the  temple  as  =860  a.d. 

54  m.  Neral  sta.  (R. )  [Passengers for 
Matheran  leave  the  rail  at  this  point 
The  station-master  or  the  superin- 
tendent at  Matheran  should  be  written 
to  beforehand  to  have  a  pony  or  a 
tonga  with  bearers  ready  to  take  the 
traveller  up  the  hilL  The  ascent  (8  m. ) 
is  by  a  veiy  good  bridle-path,  and  2i 
hrs.  must  be  allowed  from  the  rly.  sta. 
to  the  hotels  at  the  top  of  the  hill. 
The  path  passes  througn  Neral  and 
begins  to  ascend  at  the  end  of  the  1st 
m. ;  during  the  2d  m.  it  ascends  560  ft. 
amongst  rocks.  In  the  3d  m.  the  path 
climbs  the  boulder-strewn  hillside  to 
the  height  of  975  ft ;  and  at  the  4th, 
rising  to  1526  ft,  enters  the  Neral  wood. 
At  the  end  of  the  5th  m.  the  height 
is  2138  ft  The  6th  m.  brings  the 
traveller  to  the  plateau  on  the  top  of 
Matheran  Hill,  which  is  2283  ft  above 
the  sea-level.  The  7th  m.  reaches  2375 
ft ;  and  the  8th  m.  descends  to  2109 
ft.  From  the  3d  m.  the  ascent  is  very 
steep  indeed,  but  for  the  greater  part 

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ROtTTB  24.       KARJAT 


319 


\     ll-S' 

fUttr< 


X 


/a 


\i\ 


n^  luxuriant  trees  clothe  the 
lie  hill,  and  cloak  the  preci- 

ll-station  of  Matheran  stands 

r  of  the  Sahyhadri  range,  and 

\  leable  airy  summer  resort  for 

I     ^    «  of  Bombay.     There  are  a 

I     \  %  Stibscriptum  Ltbrary^  and 

I       for  croquet,  badminUm,   and 

)       lis.    The  summit  of  the  hill 

(       i  station  is  situated  forms  a 

/       ibleland  running  N.  and  S., 

■  '^^^  lioots    in    many    directions, 

^!^  \  all  sides  by  precipices  some- 

i      7  10  ft.  high,  and  terminating 

'/^l^  in   bluffs    called    "Points." 

•I  I     p  first  spots  to  visit  is  Alex- 

/''  ■      nt,  which  is  about  li  m.  from 

MtJ  ^  to  the  S.;  then  1  m.  to 

V^^i  >^^*  to  the  S.  of  the  main 

^y    JThe  view  is  very  beautiful, 

those    from   Sydney    and 

Q  Points  at  Mahabaleshwar. 

t  of  the  traveller  as  he  looks 

Chauk  Point  will  be  seen 

to  Chauk,  by  which  Hugh 

alet  ascended  when  he  dis- 

atheran  in  1850.     There  is 

it  of  primeval  forest  half-way 

lountain  through  which  the 

This  old  road  is  most 

d  steep.    Chauk  is  a  stiflingly 

about  14  m.  N.  of  Pan  well, 

road  to  Poena,  and  about 

of  Chauk  Point.     About 

the  left  the  traveller  will  see 

Point,    from   which    a  long 

Ige  runs  tapering^  down  into 

luntry,  and  this  ridge  bounds 

in  that  direction.      Another 

lid  be   to   Panorama  Point, 

the  N.W.  of  the  bungalows. 

nee  is   a   little   over   4  m. 

leads  through  a  thick  jungle 

trees,  and  about  i  m.  from 

Point   comes    to    a    point 

Sdth  Porcupine  Point,  where 

Ice  descends  abruptly  1000  ft 

ds.  from  its  termination  the 

quite  round  the  brow  of  the 

here  there  is  a  truly  beautiful 

Lc  view  of  the  country  from 

le  point  gets  its  name.     To  the 

I  Point  and  Porcupine  Point. 

distance  is  Prabal  Point,  wliere 

|i  fort  of  the  same  name,  which 


signifies  "Miffhty."  Between  Matheran 
and  Prabal  the  mountain  sinks  down 
abruptly  to  the  plain.  Below  and  to 
the  N,  of  Panorama  Point  is  the  Bhao 
Mallin  (or  Bawa  Malang)  Range,  10 
m.  lonff,  with  stranee  cylindrical  or 
bottle-shaped  peaks.  ThehutsofNeral 
village  lie  directly  below,  and  beyond 
them  is  the  curving  line  of  the  G.I. P. 
Rly.  Matheran  is  28  m.  due  E.  of 
Bombay,  which  may  be  seen  with  its 
shipping  on  a  clear  day.  In  the  even- 
ing a  nde  may  be  taken  to  the  new 
Bundf  an  embankment  of  very  hard 
blue  stone,  which  is  quarried  on  the 
spot.  It  is  100  ft  long  and  3  ft  broad 
at  top.  There  are  other  points  which 
maybe  visited  in  the  hills,  but  none 
equal  to  those  already  mentioned.] 

62  m.  Eaijat  junc.  sta.  From  here 
a  short  line  runs  S.  9  m.  to  Campoli, 
but  it  is  only  used  in  the  dry  season. 
At  Kaijat  the  engine  is  changed  for 
one  much  more  powerful  to  ascend  the 
Bor  Ghat.  The  ghat  begins  1  m.  from 
Karjat  The  gradient  is  1  in  42  ;  the 
trains  are  furnished  with  powerful 
brakes.  The  circuitous  Hue  passes 
through,  to  Lonauli  (17  m.),  a  succes- 
sion of  short  tunnels  with  beautiful 
views  between  of  green  valleys  and 
rocky  wooded  mountain  sides,  down 
which,  in  the  rains,  innumerable  water- 
falls descend.  After  rising  about  1000 
ft,  the  Flag-staff  and  D.B.  at  Khandala 
are  seen  far  up  on  the  left,  and  on  the 
right  the  level  valley  from  Panwell  to 
CampolL  The  latter  is  a  large  and 
very  pretty  village,  with  a  fine  tank 
and  temple  to  Mahadeo,  built  by  the 
celebrated  Maratha  minister,  Nana 
Famavis.  Campoli  is  23^  m.  from 
PanwelL^  The  scenery  is  beautiful. 
At  the  back  of  Nana's  Temple  the 
ghat  rises  perpendicularly  and  seems 
to  overhang  it ;  over  the  lake  spreads 
a  magnificent  banyan  tree,  and  near  it 
is  a  grove  of  mango  trees. 

The  Government  Bungalow  at  Khan 
dala,  the  lowest  point  on  tlie  tableland 
reached  by  the  rly.,  is  1800  ft.  and  at 
Lonauli  the  ghat  is  2037  ft  above  the 
sea. 

1  The  old  route  to  Poena  from  Bombay  was 
by  boat  across  the  harbour  to  Panwell,  and 
thence  to  Campoli. 

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BOUTB  24.   BOMBAT  TO  MABBAS 


Ifidia 


The  total  length  of  tunnelling  is 
2535  yds.  The  estimated  cost  of  this 
incline  was  £697,222,  or  £41,188  a 
mile. 

The  beautiful  scenery  of  the  moun- 
tains, and  the  peculiar  character  Of  the 
incline,  make  the  passage  of  the  Bor 
Ohai  one  of  the  most  remarkable  stages 
in  Indian  travel.  At  the  reversing- 
station,  one  portion  of  the  incline  is, 
as  it  were,  terraced  1400  ft.  directly 
over  the  Konkan.  In  some  parts  the 
Une  is  one  half  on  rock  benching,  while 
the  other  half  is  supported  by  lofty 
walls  of  masonry,  or  in  places  where 
the  height  is  too  great  for  a  wall,  by 
vaulttd  arches.  The  viaduct  that 
crosses  the  Mhau  ki  Mali  Khind  is  163 
ft.  high  above  the  footing,  and  consi.sts 
of  eight  semicircular  arches  of  50  ft. 
span. 

At  1350  ft.  above  the  sea  the  train 
halts  for  ten  minutes  at  the  revers- 
ing-station ;  the  halt  being  for  the 
engine  to  pass  to  the  other  end  of  the 
train. 

78  m.  Ehandala,  D.B.3^  This 
beautiful  villHge  has  for  long  been  a 
favourite  rt-treat  for  the  wealthy  in- 
habitants of  Bombay  from  the  dis- 
tressing, heat  of  the  summer  months. 
It  presents  many  attractions  to  the 
tourist  and  the  sport'^man.  The  village 
itself  is  largo.  On  the  left  of  the  road 
is  a  bungalow  built  by  General  Dicken- 
son, of  tlie  Bombay  Engineers,  who  did 
much  to  make  the  place  known,  and 
to  improve  the  roads.  The  site  is  well 
chosen ;  it  overlooks  a  tremendous 
ravine,  the  sheer  depth  of  which  is  in 
great  part  concealed  by  luxuriant  trees. 
At  the  bottom  winds  a  small  silvery 
stream.  About  J  m.  from  this  stands 
the  D.B.,  also  on  the  edge  of  the 
ravine;  and  on  the  right  is  a' large 
tank,  adjoining  which  is  the  bungalow 
of  Sir  Jamshidji  JijibhaL  Leading 
past  this,  to  the  E.,  is  a  road  to  a 
magnificent  hill  called  the  Duke's 
Nose,  whence  is  a  fine  view  over  the 
Eonkan,  similar  to  those  at  Matheran, 
already  described.  There  is  a  Conva- 
lescent  Hospital  at  Khandala  in  charge 
of  the  "All  Saints*"  sisters  (from 
Margaret  Street). 


Beyond  the  tank  is  the  village  of 
Khandala ;  and  still  farther  oo  the 
KHrli  Road  is  the  beautiful  wood  of 
LanaulL 

The  Water/all  is  distant  from  the 
D.B.  about  i  m.  on  the  op|K)8ite  side 
of  the  ravine.  To  reach  it,  it  is  ue^-es- 
sary  to  go  about  1}  m.  round  the  head 
of  a  watercourse.  In  the  monsooD  the 
distant  view  of  the  fall  from  the  top 
of  the  ghat  is  very  fine.  There  ire 
then  two  cataracts,  divided  into  npper 
and  lower  by  a  short  interval.  The 
upper  cataract  has  a  sheer  fall  of  800ft. 

80  m.  Lonauli  sta.  a^  (R.)  Here  is 
the  G.I.  P.  Railway  Company's  School 
and  Church,  and  from  this  place  or 
from  Khandala  the  tall  precipice  called 
the  Duke's  Nose,  which  is  about  4  m. 
off,  may  be  visited.  The  ascent  is  by 
the  S.  shoulder,  and  is  vt-ry  steep. 
A  traveller  desiring  to  see  the  cares  at 
Karli  should  bear  in  mind  that  few 
ti-ains  stop  at  Karli  station,  but  all 
stop  at  Lonauli.  The  eaves  are  only 
6  m.  from  Lonauli,  which  is  a  good 
place  to  start  from.  A  pony  can  be 
ridden  all  the  way ;  a  tonga  can  go 
within  }  m.  of  the  caves,  to  which 
the  path  winds  in  easy  gnidient 

85  m.  Farli  sta.  *♦  D.B.  Here 
is  a  small  village  to  the  right,  hidden 
among  trees.  The  celebrated  caret 
are  pn  a  hill  about  2  m.  to  the 
N.W.  of  the  bungalow  and  6  m.  from 
the  rly.  sta.  ^  ' 

The  following  is  from  Mr.  Fergusson'i 
description  of  the  Karli  cave :  *  "The 
great  cave  of  Karli  is,  without  exct-p-  | 
tion,  the  largest  and  finest  chaitya 
cave  in  India,  and  was  excavated  at  a 
time  when  the  style  was  in  its  greatest  I 
purity,  and  is  fortunately  the  best  pre- 1 
served.  Its  interior  dimensions  are 
124. ft.  3  in.  in  total  length,  81  ft.  5 
in.  length  of  nave.  Its  brewlth  from 
wall  to  wall  is  46  ft.  6  in.,  while  the 
width  of  the  central  aisle  is  25  ft  7  in. 
The  height  is  only  46  ft  from  the  floor 
to  the  apex."  The  same  writer  says 
*'The  building  resembles  an  earl- 
Christian  church  in  its  arrangemenf 

1  Rock-cut  TempUa  tif  India,  p.  27. 

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321 


while  all  the  dimensions  are  similar  to 
those  of  the  choir  of  Norwich  Cathe- 
dral." The  nave  is  separated  from  the 
side  aisles  by  fifteen  columns  with 
octagonal  shafts  on  each  side,  of  good 
design  and  workmanship.  On  the 
abacus  which  crowns  the  capital  of 
each  of  these  are  two  kneeling  ele- 
phants, and  on  each  elephant  are  two 
seated  figures,  generally  a  male  and 
female,  with  their  arms  over  each 
other's  ahoulders  ;  but  sometimes  two 
female  figures  in  the  same  attitude. 
The  sculpture  of  these  is  very  good, 
and  the  effect  particularly  rich  and 
pleasing.  Behind  the  altar  are  seven 
plain  octagonal  piers  without  sculpture, 
making  thus  thirty-seven  pillars  alto- 
gether, exclusive  of  the  Lion-pillar  in 
front,  which  is  sixteen-sided,  and  is 
crowned  with  four  lions  with  their 
hinder  parts  joined.  The  chaitya  is 
plain  and  very  similar  to  that  in  the 
large  cave  at  Ajanta,  but  here,  fortun- 
ately, a  part  of  the  wooden  umbrella 
which  surmounted  it  remains.  The 
wooden  ribs  of  the  roof,  too,  remain 
nearly  entire,  proving  beyond  doubt 
that  the  roof  is  not  a  copy  of  a  masonry 
arch;  and  the  framed  screen,  filling 
up  a  portion  of  the  great  arch  in  front, 
like  the  centering  of  the  arch  of  a 
bridge  (which  it  much  resembles),  still 
retains  the  place  in  which  it  was  origin- 
ally placed.  At  some  distance  in  ad- 
vance of  the  arched  front  of  this  cave 
is  placed  a  second  screen,  which  exists 
3nly  here  and  at  the  great  Cfive  at  Sal- 
iette,  though  it  might  have  existed  in 
""ront  of  the  oldest  chaitya  caves  at 
Ajanta.  It  consists  of  two  plain  octa- 
^'onal  columns  with  pilasters.  Over 
;hese  is  a  deep  plain  mass  of  wall,  oc- 
upying  the  place  of  an  entablature, 
md  over  this  again  a  superstructure 
»f  four  dwarf  pillars.  Except  the 
ower  piers,  the  whole  of  this  has  been 
overed  with  wooden  ornaments  ;  and, 
»y  a  careful  examination  and  measure- 
ment of  the  various  mortices  and  foot- 
ngs,  it  might  still  be  possible  to  make 
ut  the  greater  part  of  the  design.  It 
ppears,  however,  to  have  consisted 
f  a  broad  balcony  in  front  of  the 
lain  wall,  supported  hy  bold  wooden 
rackets  from  the  two  piers,  and  either 
[Indial 


roofed  or  having  a  second  balcony 
above  it  No  part  of  the  wood,  how- 
ever, exists  now,  either  here  or  at  Sal- 


Cave  at  Earli. 

sette.  It  is  more  than  probable,  how- 
ever, that  this  was  the  music  gallery 
or  Nakar  Ehana,  which  we  stul  find 
existing  in  front  of  almost  all  Jain 
templbs,  down  even  to  the  present  day. 
Whether  the  space  between  this  outer 
and  the  inner  screen  was  roofed  over 
or  not  is  extremely  difficult  to  decide. 
To  judge  from  the  mortices  at  Salsette, 
the  space  there  would  seem  to  have 
had  a  roof;  but  here  the  evidence  is 
by  no  means  so  distinct,  though  there 
is  certainly  nothing  to  contradict  the 
supposition.  There  are  no  traces  of 
painting  in  this  cave,  thpugh  the  inner 

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BOUTE  24.   BOMBAY  TO  MADBAS 


India 


wall  has  been  plastered;  and  may"  have 
been  painted ;  but  the  cave  is  inhabited, 
and  the  cou tinned  smoke  of  cooking- 
fires  has  so  blackened  its  walls  that  it 
is  impossible  to  decide  the  question. 
Its  inhabitants  are  Shivites,  and  the 
cave  is  considered  a  temple  dedicated 
to  Shiva,  the  dagoba  performing  the 
part  of  a  gigantic  lingam,  which  it  re- 
sembles a  good  deal.  The  outer  porch 
is  62  ft.  wide  and  15  ft.  deep.  Here 
originally  the  fronts  of  three  elephants 
in  each  end  wall  supported  a  frieze 
ornamented  with  the  rail,  but  at  both 
ends  this  second  rail  has  been  out  away 
to  introduce  figures.  Above  was  a 
thick  quadrantal  moulding,  and  then 
a  rail  with  small  fa9ades  of  temples, 
and  pairs  of  figures. 

**  It  would  be  of  great  importance  if 
the  age  of  this  cave  could  be  positively 
fixed  ;  but  though  that  cannot  quite  be 
done,  it  is  probably  antecedent  to  the 
Christian  era  ;  and  at  the  same  time 
it  cannot  possibly  have  been  excavated 
more  than  200  years  before  that  era. 
From  the  Silasthamba  (pillar)  on  the 
left  of  the  entmnce  Colonel  Sykes 
copied  an  inscription,  which  Mr.  Prin- 
sep  deciphered  in  vol.  vi.  of  the 
JaumcU  of  the  AsicUic  Society,  It 
merely  says:  'This  lion -pillar  is  the 
gift  of  Ajmitra  Ukas,  the  son  of  Saha 
Ravisabhoti ' ;  the  character  Prinsep 
thinks  is  of  the  Ist  or  2d  century  B.c. 
From  its  position  and  import,  the 
inscription  appears  to  be  integral,  and 
the  column  is  certainly  a  part  of  the 
original  design.  I  am  inclined  to 
think  the  date,  168  B.C.,  is  at  least 
extremely  probable. 

"It  would  be  a  subject  of  curious 
inquiry  to  know  whether  the  wood- 
work now  existing  in  this  cave  is  that 
originally  put  up  or  not.  Accustomed 
as  I  had  long  been  to  the  rapid 
destruction  of  everything  wooden  in 
India,  I  was  half  inclined  to  be  angry 
when  the  idea  first  suggested  itself  to 
me ;  but  a  calmer  survey  of  the  matter 
has  convinced  me  that  it  is.  Certain 
it  is  that  it  is  the  original  design,  for 
we  find  it  repeated  m  atone  in  all 
the  niches  of  the  front,  and  there  is 
no  appearance  of  change  <or  alteration 
m  any  part  of  the  root     Every  part  of 


it  is  the'  same  as  is  seen  so  often  re- 
peated in  stone  in  other  and  more 
modern  caves,  and  it  must,  therefore, 
have  been  put  up  by  the  Buddhists 
before  they  were  expelled ;  and  if  we 
allow  that  it  has  existed  800  or  1000 
years,  which  it  certainly  has,  there 
is  not  much  greater  improbability  is 
its  having  existed  near  2000  years,  as  1 
believe  to  be  the  case.  As  far  as  I 
could  ascertain  the  wood  is  teik. 
Though  exposed  to  the  atmosphere, 
it  is  protected  from  the  rain,  and  hts 
no  strain  upon  it  but  its  own  weight, 
as  it  does  not  support  the  roof,  thoo^ 
it  appears  to  do  so  ;  and  the  rock 
seems  to  have  defied  the  industry  of 
the  white  ants." 

Mr.  Fergusson  appends  to  his  notice 
of  this  *' decidedly  the  finest  chaitya 
cave  in  India,"  a  general  description  of 
the  arrangement  of  such  caves.  He 
observes  that  the  disposition  of  parts  is 
exactly  the  same  as  those  of  the  choir 
of  a  Gothic  round  or  polygonal  apse 
cathedraL  Across  the  front  there  is 
always  a  screen  with  a  gallery  over 
it,  occupying  the  place  of  the  rood-loft, 
on  which  we  now  place  our  organs. 
In  this  there  are  three  doors ;  one,  the 
largest,  opening  to  the  nave,  and  one 
to  each  of  the  side  aislea  Over  the 
screen  the  whole  front  of  the  cave  is 
open  to  the  air,  being  one  vast  window, 
stilted  so  as  to  be  more  than  a  semi- 
circle in  height,  or,  generally,  of  a 
horse-shoe  form.  The  whole  light  falls 
on  the  dagoba,  which  is  exactly 
opposite,  in  the  place  of  the  altar, 
while  the  colonnade  around  and  behind 
is  less  perfectly  lit,  the  pillars  being 
very  close  together.  To  a  person 
standing  near  ttie  door  there  appeared 
nothing  behind  the  dagoba  but  "il- 
limitable gloom."  The  writer  above- 
mentioned  thinks  that  a  votary  was 
never  admitted  beyond  the  colonnade 
under  the  front,  the  rest  of  the  tem^e 
being  devoted  to  the  priests  and  the 
ceremonies,  as  in  China,  and  in  Catho- 
lic churches,  and  he  therefore  never 
could  see  whence  the  light  came,  and 
stood  in  comparative  snade  himself, 
so  that  the  effect  was  greatly  height- 
ened. 

The  hill  in  which  the  caves  an  ii 

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BOUTS  24.      CAVES  OF  BHAJA  AND  BBDSA. 


rery  steep,  and  about  600  ft.  high  from 
the  plain.  A  huge  round  cliff  like  a 
tower  shuts  in  the  view  in  one  direction. 
The  guides  call  the  male  and  female 
figures  in  the  portico  hairagis^  or  de- 
votees. The  figure  on  the  dagoba  they 
lali  Dharma  Raja,  the  Hindu  Minos. 

Besides  the  great  cave  at  Earli,  there 
ire  a  number  of  yiharas,  but  small  and 
w  insignificant  compared  with  it ; 
md  this,  Mr.  Fergusson  thinks,  is  a 
proof  of  their  antiquity.  For  at  first 
the  viharas  were  mere  cells,  where, 
IS  Fa-hian  says,  *'the  Arhats  sat  to 
meditate,"  and  as  the  religion  was 
lormpted,  became  magnificent  halls 
ind  temples.  Such  are  the  viharas  at 
i^janta.  The  principal  viharas  at  Earli 
ire  three  tiers  m  h  eight.  They  are  plain 
balls  with  cells,  but  without  any  inter- 
nal colonnades,  and  the  upper  one  alone 
possesses  a  verandah.  The  lower  fronts 
bave  been  swept  away  by  great  masses 
)f  rock  which  have  rolled  from  above. 
I^ear  this  is  a  small  temple  to  Bhavani, 
^th  the  figure  of  a  tortoise  in  front  of 
the  image,  which  is  that  of  a  moon- 
faced female  with  huge  eyes. 

There  is  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of 
:he  hill  in  which  the  caves  are  called 
Ekvira,  and  from  this  the  great  cave  is 
Jometimes  called  the  Cave  of  Ekvira. 

Besides  the  caves,  the  traveller  while 
vt  Karli  may  also  visit  the  hill-forts  of 
Lohogarh  and  Viaapur,  8  m.  S.  of  the 
"ailway  station  (see  Grant  Duff,  pp.  18, 
14),  which  are  at  an  elevation  of  1200 
t  above  the  plain,  with  a  sheer  scarp 
)f  200  ft.  Losarh  was  taken  by  MaliK 
ihmad  from  the  Marathas  in  1485  A.D. 
«id  by  Shivaji  in  1648,  and  again  by 
•he  same  chief  in  1670.  It  was  here 
;hat  the  widow  of  Nana  Famavis  took 
efuge  from  the  time  of  Amrit  Rao's 
omingto  Poona,  on  the  12th  November 
802,  to  15th  March  1804,  when  Gen- 
ral  Wellesley,  according  to  the  pro- 
»osal  of  Dhondu  Balal  Eil'adar,  of 
jogarh,  guaranteed  to  her  her  safety, 
nd  an  annual  pension  of  12,000  rs. 
-K)garh  was  twice  taken  by  the  English 
'ith  little  diflBculty. 

The  Cayes  of  Bhaja  and  Bedsa.^— 

*  A  full  account  of  these  places  will  be 
)und  in  Cavt  TmpUa  of  India,  pp.  223,  228. 


Bhaja  is  a  village  2  m.  S.'of  Earli,  and 
Bedsa  is  5i  m.  E.  of  Bhaja.  ^  The 
caves  of  Bhaja  are  situated  3  m.  S.E. 
from  the  village  of  Earli,  and  date 
from  200  B.C.  There  are  eighteen  ex- 
cavations, and  No.  12  is  one  of  the 
most  interesting  in  India.  Bedsa  dates 
a  little  later  than  Bhaja.  The  princi- 
pal temple  contains  a  dagoba,  but  no 
sculptures,  and  has  its  roof  supported 
bj  twenty-seven  plain  pillars.  Out- 
side there  is  a  group  executed  in  bas- 
relief,  now  much  defaced.  .  On  both 
sides  of  the  shrine  the  hill  has  been 
excaj^ated  into  two  stories,  correspond- 
ing with  the  height  of  the  temple,  and 
containing  the  usual  halls  of  instruc- 
tion, with  cells.  But  the  most  curious 
of  the  sculptures  is  a  collection  of  four- 
teen dagobas,  five  of  which  are  inside 
and  the  others  outside  the  cave.  On 
the  first  of  the  latter  there  is  an  in- 
scription. The  group  of  horses,  bulls, 
and  elephants  on  the  four  pillars  in 
front  of  the  arched  cave  at  Bedsa 
resembles  what  we  find  on  the  Indo- 
Mithraic  coins  of  the  N.,  and  is 
evidence,  were  no  other  proofs  pro- 
curable, that  such  belongs  to  the 
worship  of  the  sun.  The  caves  at 
Bedsa  are  situated  about  6  m.  S.W. 
from  Wargaon  (see  below).  The  plan 
of  the  temple  resembles  Earli,  but  is 
neither  of  so  great  extent,  nor  so  well 
executed,  and  appears  more  modem. 
It  contains  a  dagoba ;  and  its  roof, 
which  is  ribbed  and  supported  by 
twenty-six  octagonal  pillars  10  ft.  high, 
seems  to  have  been  covered  with  pint- 
ings,  which  are  now,  however,  so  indis- 
tinct that  nothing  can  be  made  out  of 
them.  There  are  four  pillars  about  25 
ft.  high  in  front,  surmounted  by  a 
group  of  horses,  bulls,  and  elephants, 
with  a  male  and  female  rider  upon 
them.  The  hall  of  instruction,  wmch 
is  of  an  oval  shape,  has  a  vaulted  roof, 
and  is  situated  close  to  the  temple.  It 
contains  eleven  small  cells,  and  over 
the  door  of  one  of  them  there  is  an 
indistinct  and  partly  defaced  inscrip- 
tion. 
96  m.  Wargaon  sta.,  a  very  large  and 

1  In  the  Joumud  of  the  Bombay  Aiiatic 
Society  for  Hay  1844,  Art  vi.,  there  ia  also 
some  account  of  these  caves. 


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824 


BOUTS  24.   BOHBAT  TO  MADBA8 


India 


flonrishing  Tillage,  celebrated  for  the 
defeat  of  a  BritiSi  force  under  Lieut.- 
Col.  Cockbum,  on  the  12th  and  13th 
of  January  1779,  and  for  a  convention 
concluded  there  by  Mr.  Carnac  with 
the  Marathas. 

109  m.  Chinohwad  sta.  The  villafe 
has  a  picturesque  appearance  from  the 
river-side.  Above  the  handsome  flight 
of  stone  steps  which  leads  to  the  river 
Mula  are  many  fine  trees,  but  the 
temple  is  low  and  devoid  of  ornament. 

116  m.  Eirkee  sta.  is  only  ^  m. 
from  Poona,  and  may  be  considered 
part  of  the  same  station.  It  is  inter- 
esting as  being  the  scene  of  a  splendid 
victory  over  Baji  Rao,  the  last  Feshwa. 
On  the  1st  of  November  1817  the  dis- 
positions of  that  prince  had  become  so 
threatening,  that  Mr.  Elphinstone, 
then  Resident  at  Poona,  determined  to 
remove  the  troops  from  the  cantonment 
of  that  place  to  Eirkee,  where,  on  the 
5th,  they  took  up  a  good  position  to  the 
east  of  an  eminence,  on  which  stands 
the  village  of  Kirkee,  and  where  the 
stores  and  ammunition  were  stationed. 
In  the  rear  of  the  troops  was  the  river 
Mula,  and  from  the  S.  and  W.  advanced 
the  massesof  the  Peshwa's  army,  amount- 
ing to  8000  foot,  18,000  horse,  and  14 
guns,^  besides  areserve of  5000 horse  and 
2000  foot  with  the  Peshwa,  at  the  sacred 
hill  of  Parbati  (see  below).  The  canton- 
ments at  Poona  and  the  Residency  at 
the  Sangam  (or  meeting  of  the  rivers) 
had-been  plundered  and  burnt  on  the  1st, 
as  soon  as  the  English  troo^^s  quitted 
them.  One  regiment  of  Major  Ford's 
brigade  was  at  Dapuri,  N.  of  Eirkee, 
and  the  total  strength  of  the  English, 
even  when  it  joined,  was,  according  to 
Grant  Duff,  but  2800  rank  and  file,  of 
which  800  were  Europeans. 

Gokla  commanded  the  Peshwa's 
army,  and  its  advance  is  compared  by 
Grant  Duff,  who  was  an  eye-witness, 
to  the  rushing  tide  called  the  Bor  in 
the  Gulf  of  Cambay.  It  swept  all 
before  it,  trampling  down  the  hedges 
and  fields  of  standing  corn  which  then 
covered  the  plain.  Colonel  Burr,  who 
commanded  the  English,  was  now  in 
1  Grant  Duff,  toL  iii.  p.  427. 


formed  that  Major  Ford  was  advanc- 
ing with  his  regiment,  the  Peshwa's 
own,  from  Dapuri  on  the  "W.,  to  join 
him ;  and  in  order  to  facilitate  tiie 
junction,  he  moved  the  main  force  to 
a  position  about  a  mile  in  adyance. 
and  to  the  S.W.  of  the  village  of 
Eirkee.  The  Maratha  leaders  had  been 
tampering  for  some  time  with  the  legi- 
ment  that  was  moving  from  Dapoii, 
and  they  frilly  expected  it  would  come 
over,  as  it  was  paid  by  the  Peshi a. 
A  strong  body  of  horse,  therefore, 
under  Moro  Dikshat,  the  prime  minis- 
ter of  the  Peshwa.  advanced  about* 
P.M.  upon  the  Dapuri  battalion,  bnt 
Major  Ford,  throwing  back  his  right 
wing,  opened  a  heavy  fire  upon  the 
Marathas,  both  of  musketry  and  fron 
three  sm^lguns  commanded  by  Captaii 
Thew.  A  good  many  Marathas  fell, 
and  amon^  them  Moro  Dikshat  h 
the  meantime,  Gokla  had  organised 
an  attack  on  the  left  flank  of  the  Eng- 
lish main  force,  and  this  was  led  by  i 
regular  battalion  commanded  by  » 
Portuguese  named  De  Pento;  and, 
after  Ms  discomfiture,  a  select  body  of 
6000  horse,  with  the  Jari  Patka,  or 
golden  pennon,  flying  at  their  head, 
charged  the  7th  N.I.  as  they  were 
pursuing  De  Peuto's  men.  Gokla's 
horse  was  wounded  in  this  charge,  and 
his  advance  was  stopped ;  but  there 
were  other  gallant  leaders,  such  m 
Nam ,  Pant  Apte  and  Mahadeo  Bao 
Rastia  ;  and  it  was  well  for  the  Sepoys 
that  a  swamp  in  their  front  checked 
the  charge  of  the  Marathas,  whose 
horsemen  rolled  headlong  over  one 
another  in  the  deep  slough.  As  it  was, 
some  cut  their  way  through  the  Sepoy 
battalion ;  but,  instead  of  turninj 
back,  when  they  might  have  destroyed 
the  re^;iment,  tney  rode  off  to  plunder 
the  village  of  Eirkee,  whence  they 
were  repulsed  by  a  fire  of  grape.  After 
this  charge,  the  Marathas  drew  off 
with  a  total  loss  of  about  500  men, 
while  that  of  the  English  was  but  86. 
On  the  18th  General  Smith's  army 
arrived  from  Sirur,  and  the  Peshwt, 
after  a  slight  resistance,  put  his  army 
to  fiUl  retreat.    The  most  remarkabk 

Eoint  in  the  battle  of  Eirkee  is,  paj 
aps,  the  exteaordinary  steadiness  of 

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BOUTB  24.      POONA 


32& 


Major  Ford's  regiment  under  great 
temptation.  In  it  were  upwards  of  70 
Maiathas,  yet  not  a  man  deserted  on 
the  day  of  battle,  though  promised 
▼ast  sums  to  join  their  countrymen. 
After  the  action,  the  Marathas,  but 
only  the  Marathas,  joined  the  enemy, 
and  many  of  them  being  subsequently 
Baptured,  their  culpability,  sudi  as  it 
was,  was  very  properly  ignored,  and 
they  were  set  free. 

Kirkee  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Bombay  Artillery,  i  m.  N.K  of  the 
barracks  is  the  Small  Arms  Ammuni- 
Hon  Fadory,  and  to  the  N.  are  the 
Powder  Works  (permission  to  enter 
both  must  be  obtained  from  the  Com- 
mandant of  the  Artillery). 

Christ  Church,  Eirkee,  in  the  Artil- 
lery lines,  was  consecrated  in  1841. 
rhere  are  two  Colours  of  the  23d  Regt. 
Bombay  N.I.  inside  the  W.  door. 
Amon^t  the  memorial  tablets  is  one  to 
30  officers  of  the  14th  King's  Light 
Dragoons,  who  died  or  were  killed 
between  1841  and  1859 ;  and  another 
to  90  non-commissioned  officers  of  the 
lame  regiment. 

N.E.  of  the  Artillery  Mess  is  St 
Vmxfnt  De  PauVs  Roman  Catholic 
Ohapel 

One  of  the  most  interesting  spots  at 
Kirkee,  passed  on  the  road  to  Poona, 
\s  ffolkai's  Bridge  over  the  Mula  river, 
I  stream  which  skirts  Kirkee  to  the 
3.E.  and  N.  The  river  is  200  yds. 
sroad  at  this  spot.  On  the  rt.  of  the 
'oad  is  an  old  English  cemetery,  and, 
)n  the  1.,  about  300  yds.  to  the  N., 
8  the  New  Burial  Ground.  After 
Jrosaing  the  Mula,  the  road  passes  on 
'he  rt  the  tomb  of  Khande  Rao 
Solkar,  and  on  the  1.  are  the  Sappers' 
ind  Miners'  Lines,  and  after  them  the 
[)eccan  College  and  the  lines  of  the 
J8th  Pioneers,  rt.  Beyond  these  are 
he  Jamshidji  Bund,  the  Fitzgerald 
Bridge,  and  the  Bund  Gardens  (for  all 
•f  which  see  below  under  Poona). 

The  Cknrenmient  HouBe  is  at  Ganesh 
tod,  H  m.  S.W.\of  Kirkee  rly.  sta., 
Jid  3i  m.  N.  W.  of  the  city  of  Poona. 
t  derives  its  name  from  a  small  khind 
r  pass  between  hills,  about  |  m.  S.  E. 
f  the  house,  which  resembles  a  modem 
^nch  chateau,  and  has  a  tall  slim 


tower,  80  ft  high,  from  the  top  of  which 
there  is  a  fine  view — Kirkee,  with  its 
powder  works,  and  the  Deccan  College, 
and  Parbati  HiU  to  the  S.K  The 
house  contains  the  usual  reception 
rooms,  a  ballroom,  darbar-room,  etc., 
and  has  a  flower  gallery  or  garden 
corridor  90  ft  long.  The  woodwork  of 
the  staircase  is  very  beautiful. 

119  m.  POONA  3^  June.  sta.  of  the 
G.I.P.  and  S.  Maratha  iUys.  (see  Rte.  23). 
The  rly.  sta.  is  conveniently  situated 
between  the  city  and  the  cantoimient, 
and  close  to  the  most  important  public 
offices.  Poona  is  ttie  residence  of  the 
Governor  of  Bombay  during  the  rainy 
season.  It  is  the  headquarters  of  the 
Bombay  army,  and  the  ancient  capital 
of  the  Marathas.  The  pop.  of  Poona 
is  160,460.  The  first  mention  we 
have  of  Poona  is  in  the  Maratha  annals 
of  1599  A.D.,  when  the  parganahs 
of  Poona  and  Supa  were  made  over  to 
Malaji  Bhonsle  (grandfather  of  Shivaji) 
by  the  Nizam  Shahi  Government.  In 
1760  it  became  the  Maratha  capital 
under  Balaji  Baji  Rao.  In  1763  it  was 
plimdered  and  destroyed  by  Nizam  'Ali, 
and  here,  on  the  26th  of  October, 
Jeswant  Rao  Holkar  defeated  the  com- 
bined armies  of  the  Peshwa  and  Sindia, 
and  captured  all  the  guns,  baggage, 
and  stores  of  the  latter.  The  city 
stands  in  a  somewhat  treeless  plain  on 
the  right  of  the  Muta  river,  a  little 
before  it  joins  the  Mula.  At  its  ex- 
treme S.  limit  is  the  hill  of  Parbati, 
so  called  from  a  celebrated  temple  to 
the  goddess  Durga,  or  Parbati  on  its 
summit  (see  below).  A  few  m.  to  the 
£.  and  N.E.  are  the  hills  which  lead 
up  to  the  still  higher  tableland  in  the 
direction  of  Satara.  The  station  is 
healthy  and  the  climate  pleasant  The 
Agpiedu.ct'w&a  built  b^  one  of  the  Rastias, 
a  family  of  great  distinction  amongst 
the  Marathas.  There  are  also  exten- 
sive waterworks,  constructed  by  Sir 
Jamshidji  Jijibhai,  which  cost  upwards 
of  £20,000.  Of  this  sum  the  Parsi 
baronet  contributed  £17,600. 

The  Assembly  Booms  or  Qjrmkhana 
is  a  large  building  and  contains  a  hand- 
some ballroom,  with  a  stage  at  one  end 
for  theatricals ;  and  thoJ/nited  Service 

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tU>t7TB  d4.      BOMBAY  tO  MADRAS 


tntia 


LUnwy,  wliich  possesses  a  good  selec- 
tion of  books.  In  the  grounds  of  the 
building  are  lawn -tennis  courts,  a 
covered  Badminton  court,  and  a  good 
cricket-ground. 

Near  the  Assembly  Rooms,  on  the 
road  to  the  Bund  Gardens,  is  the  Ck>imoil 
Hall,  containing  a  few  pictures  of  some 
interest  if  not  of  hi^h  artistic  merit, 
amongst  which  are  Sir  B.  Frere,  Lad^ 
Frere,  Khan  Bahadur  Padamji  Pestanji, 
Khan  Bahadur  Naushirwanji,  Lord 
Napier  of  Magdala,  Khan  Bahadur 
Pestanji  Sorabji,  Framji  Patel,  the 
Crown  Prince  of  Travancore,  Sir  Man- 
galdas  Nathubhai,  Dr.  Bhau  Daji,  the 
Kaja  of  Eochin,  Sir  Salar  Jang,  the 
Thakors  of  Bhaunagar  and  Morvi,  and 
Ehande  Rao  Gaekwar. 

jS^^.  PauPs  Church  has  four  stained 
glass  windows  at  the  E.  end. 

The  Sassoon  Hospital  (nursed  by  the 
Wantage  sisters),  in  the  Grothic  st^*^)  is 
at  the  end  of  the  Arsenal  Road.  There 
is  accommodation  for  150  patients  of 
all  classes  and  nationalities. 

Opposite  the  hospital  are  the  Collee- 
tor's  OtUeherry  and  the  Ooverrmient 
Treaswry.  About  250  yds.  S.  of  St. 
Paul's  Church  is  the  Jews'  Synagogtie, 
a  red-brick  building  with  a  tower  90  ft. 
high,  consecrated  29th  September  1867. 
David  Sassoon's  tomb  adjoins  the  syna- 
gogue, which  was  built  bv  him.  The 
mausoleum  is  16  ft  sq.  and  28  ft  high. 

It  is  a  drive  of  1 J  m.  to  the  S.E.  pass- 
ing the  Arsenal  to  St.  Mary's  Church, 
consecrated  by  Bishop  Heber  in  1825. 
Here  are  buried  many  officers  of  dis- 
tinction, and  the  tablets  on  the  walls 
recall  stirring  incidents  in  the  history 
of  India.  The  Font  in  the  S.W.  comer 
of  the  church  is  surrounded  by  stained 
glass  windows. 

E.  of  the  Church  are  the  QmeraZ 
Parade  Chround  and  Race-course,  the 
latter  included  in  the  former,  and 
about  1  m.  long.  The  races  are  gener- 
ally run  in  September.  Close  to  it  are 
the  Oymnasium,  St.  Andrew's  Church, 
and  the  Masonic  Lodge,  and  to  the  N. 
are  the  Ohoripuri  European  Barracks. 
To  the  S.  are  the  Wanawri  Barracks. 

Two  SoottiBh  Missions  (Free  and  Est. 
Church),  and  a  Union  Marathi  Church 
are  conducted  in  the  city  and  suburbs. 


The  Society  of  St,  John  the  Ewmgeiut 
has  a  native  Missicm  at  Poena ;  the  mis* 
sion-house  is  at  Panch  Howds,  Yetal 
Peit  There  are  schools  for  boys  of 
various  classes,  an  Industrial  School,  an 
Orphanage,  and  a  School  for  Catechists. 

The  Sisters  of  St.  Mary  the  Virgin 
(Wantage)  have  also  their  mission-hoose 
at  Pantm  Howds,  and  in  the  compound 
the  Epiphany  School  for  high  diss 
native  girls,  and  St.  Michael's  School 
for  low  class  girls.  The  sisters  hare 
also  under  their  charge  St  Mary's  High 
School  for  European  and  Eurasian  gins 
(self-supporting).  A  village  school  at 
Parbeti  1  m.  from  Poona,  and  another 
at  Oerandaona  a  little  farther  off. 

The  Sangam  is  the  name  given  to 
the  tongue  of  land  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Muta  river  flowing  ficom  the  & 
with  the  Mula  river  coming  from  thi 
N.W.  ;  it  is  |)erhaps  the  most  central 
spot  of  the  combined  city  and  canton- 
ments. Upon  it  are  several  temples,  and 
from  it  are  pleasant  views  of  the  river. 

The  Wellesley  Bridge,  482  ft  Ion; 
and  28^  ft.  broad,  crosses  the  Muti 
river  to  the  Sangam  nromontory,  dosi 
to  its  confluence  witn  the  Mma.  It 
takes  the  place  of  a  wooden  bridgi 
erected  to  commemorate  the  victories 
of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  in  India- 
The  present  bridge,  designed  by  Col 
A.  U.  H.  Finch,  B.E.,  cost  110,982  rs.. 
and  was  opened  in  1875. 

On  the  1.  hand,  after  crossing  the 
Wellesley  Bridge,  are  the  Poona  EngiJj^ 
eering  College,  and  E.  of  it  the  Distnd 
Court, — the  latter  a  long,  low  building 
on  the  site  of  the  Residency  of  tiw 
British  Aeent,  Mountstuart  H^bm- 
stone,  at  the  time  of  the  nmture  with 
the  last  Peshwa,  Baji  Kao.  Mr. 
Elphinstone  retired  from  it  to  Kirk« 
before  the  battle,  and  the  Manthai 

Slundered  the  building  and  pulled  it 
own.  At  the  E.  end  of  Wellesleff 
Bridge  is  a  path  to  the  left,  whifll 
leads  down*  to  a  pretty  garden  wiA 
several  temples.  The  first  has  a  to^ 
40  ft.  high.  The  garden  is  filled  witi 
fruit  trees.  In  the  middle  of  the  gardai 
is  a  second  temple,  nearly  as  broad  hd 
not  so  high.  A  third  temple  at  thi 
end  of  the  garden  was  built  by  Holkay 
who  destroyecUtwo  old  temfdes  to  bnill 

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1.  Small  Arms  and  Amunition  Factory. 

15.  Bank. 

8.  Orand  Magazine. 

3.  Artillery  Barracks  and  Stables. 

16.  St.  Paul's  Church. 

17.  Synagogue. 

4.  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

18.  Arsenal. 

5.  Bodyguard  Lines. 

6.  Royal  Connaught  Boat  Club. 

7.  Commissariat  Lines. 

19.  Telegraph  Office. 

20.  St.  Mary's  (Garrison)  Church 

21.  Waterworks. 

8.  MUitary  Hospital. 

22.  Racecourse. 

9.  Parbati  Temples. 

23.  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

10.  Sappers'  and  Miners'  Lines. 

24.  City  Magistrate's  Court. 

11.  Poona  Boat  Club. 

25.  Asylum. 

26.  Jail. 

18.  Counca  Hall. 

14.  Sassoon  Hospital. 

27.  Parbati  Tank. 

To  face  p.  820. 


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BOUTB  24.      POOKA 


327 


it  All  sre  dedicated  to  Mahadeo,  and 
though  small,  are  extremely  handsome. 
At  300  yds.  from  the  Engineering 
College  is  Sir  Albert  SassoorCs  House^ 
called  Garden  Reach.  It  was  built  be- 
tween 1862  and  1864,  and  cost  £80,000. 
The  gardens  are  beautiful,  and  extend 
along  the  banks  of  the  river.  The 
rooms  in  the  principal  house  are  floored 
with  marble.  The  fine  dining-room  is 
connected  with  the  house  by  a  long, 
open  gallery.  Beside  it  is  an  open 
room,  with  sides  of  carved  wood,  where 
the  &mily  dine  during  the  Feast  of 
Tabernacles.  The  ceilingof  the  drawing- 
room  is  beautifully  decorated  by  Poona 
artists.  In  it  is  a  full-length  portrait 
of  David  Sassoon,  Sir  Albert's  father, 
who  must  have  been  strikingly  hand- 
some. A  fountain  in  the  garden  and 
the  water-tower  should  be  noticed. 
Permission  to  view  it  would  no  doubt 
be  granted  on  application. 

Irom  this  it  is  a  pleasant  drive  of 
1}  m.  to  the  Jamshidji  Bund  and  the 
Fitzgerald  Bridge.  The  Bimd  is  of  stone 
thrown  across  the  Mula  river,  and  on 
the  S.  side  of  it  are  the  pretty  Bund 
Ckurdtns  of  six  acres. 

The  view  of  the  Fitzgerald  Bridge 
from  the  Bund  is  very  pretty  ;  above  it 
is  the  broad  stream,  350  yds.  wide,  on 
which  rowing  matches  take  place, 
chiefly  in  August.  Farther  along  in 
this  direction,  towards  Kirkee  (see 
above),  is  the  Deocan  College,  built 
of  gray  trap-stone,  in  the  Gothic  style, 
at  a  cost  of  245,963  rs.,  of  which  half 
^M  contributed  by  Sir  Jamshidji 
Jyibhal  It  was  designed  by  Cap- 
tain H.  C.  Wilkins,  R.E.,  and  con- 
sists of  the  central  block  two  stories 
hieh,  with  two  wings,  forming  three 
sioes  of  a  quadrangle,  surmounted  by 
a  high-pitched  iron  roof  coloured  red. 
At  the  N.W.  comer  of  the  main  block 
is  a  tower  106  ft.  high.  The  wings 
are  occupied  by  students,  and  the  main 
building  contains  class-rooms  and 
laboratory,  with  a  large  College  Hall  70 
»•  long  above,  containing  the  Library. 

For  a  native  town  the  streets  of  the 
City  are  wide,  and  some  of  the  older 
houses  are  substantial  buildings  and 
extremely  picturesque.  It  is  divided 
into  seven  quarters,  named  after  the 


days  of  the  week  in  which  the  market 
was  held.  Amongst  the  industries  of 
the  town  may  be  mentioned  the  mak- 
ing of  gold  and  silver  thread  and  wire 
for  embroidery  and  for  a  simple  kind 
of  jewellery,  the  stringing  of  beads  and 
berries  for  ornaments,  and  brass-work 
of  all  kinds.  In  the  Shanwar,  or 
Saturday  division,  are  the  remains  of 
the  Peshwa's  Gastle,  called  Junawada, 
or  "old  palace," a  large  enclosure  about 
180  yds.  sq.  It  was  built  by  the 
grandfather  of  the  last  Peshwa,  and  was 
a  grand  building,  till  burnt  down  in 
1827.     Only  the  massive  walls  remain. 

In  front  is  an  open  space  where  a 
vegetable  market  is  held.  About  110 
yds.  to  the  N.  is  a  stone  bridge,  over 
which  a  road  leads  to  the  village  of 
Bamburda  and  the  Sangam.  The  doors 
are  very  large,  and  covered  with  iron 
spikes.  Above  the  gateway  is  a  small 
balcony  supported  on  pillars.  Here  is 
the  terrace  from  which,  in  1795,  the 
young  Peshwa,  Mhadu  Rao,  threw 
himself,  and  died  two  days  afterwards 
of  the  injuries  he  received  in  the  fall. 
Here,  too,  in  1773,  Narayan  Rao,  at 
the  age  of  eighteen,  after  ne  had  been 
but  nine  months  Peshwa,  was  savagely 
murdered  by  two  of  his  guard. 

Not  far  from  this  castle  is  a  street 
in  which,  under  the  Peshwas,  offenders 
were  executed  by  being  trampled  to 
death  by  elephants.  One  of  the  most 
memorable  of  these  executions,  on 
account  of  the  princely  rank  of  the 
sufferer,  was  that  of  Wittoji  Holkar, 
brother  of  that  Jeswant  Rao  Holkar 
who,  the  same  year,  won  the  battle  of 
Poona.  The  last  of  the  Peshwas,  Baji 
Rao,  beheld  the  agonies  of  the  victim 
from  a  window  of  his  palace,  where, 
on  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  April 
1800,  he  took  his  seat  with  his  favourite 
Balaji  Kunjar  in  order  to  glut  his 
eyes  with  the  revolting  sight. 

In  the  Bud h war  or  "Wednesday" 
quarter  of  the  city  are  some  old  Maratha 
palaces,  and  the  quondam  residence  of 
Nana  Famavis,  a  shabby  mansion  with 
a  small  court-yard  and  fountain  and 
many  small  dark  rooms  and  dingy  pass- 
ages. On  the  outskirts  of  the  town 
is  a  very  large  Jain  temple  with 
Chinese-looking  ornaments. 

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328 


BOUTE  24.   BOHBAT  TO  MADBAS 


Ifl/Ha 


ParbatL — ^A  Tisit  to  Parbati  should 
not  be  omitted.  The  hill,  with  its 
temples,  is  situated  at  the  extreme 
S.  W.  of  the  town,  the  road  to  Sinhgarh 
passes  a  little  to  the  N.  of  it,  and  the 
ffira  Bagh,  or  "Diamond  Garden," 
is  passed  on  the  road.  In  a  cemetery 
here,  very  well  kept  and  shaded  with 
trees,  is  interred  the  celebrated  African 
traveller  Sir  William  Comwallis  Harris, 
Major  in  the  Bombay  Engineers,  who 
died  in  1848.^  The  Hira  Bagh,  with 
its  lake  and  island,  and  the  villa  of 
the  Peshwas,  mosque,  and  temples, 
is  a  charming  place.  Lord  Valentia 
mentions  it  in  his  account  of  a  visit  to 
the  Peshwa  in  1804.  The  temple  at 
Parbati  was  built  by  the  Peshwa  Balaji 
Baji  Rao,  who  reigned  from  1740  to 
1761,  but  in  honour,  it  is  said,  of  the 
Rajah  of  Satara.  On  leaving  the  road 
it  is  necessary  before  commencing  the 
ascent  of  the  hill  to  walk  across  to  the 
E.  side  of  the  Ehadakwasla  Canal,  which 
comes  from  the  great  reservoir  10  m. 
to  the  S.  of  Poona.  A  long  succession 
of  stops  and  ramps  leads  up  to  the  top 
of  the  hill  and  to  the  torn  pies.  At  each 
comer  of  the  first  court  are  small  shrines 
to  Surya,  "the  Sun,"  Vishnu,  Karti- 
keya,  the.Hindu  Mars,  and  Durga ;  and 
in  the  centre  is  the  principal  tomple 
dedicated  to  the  goadess  Durga  or 
Parbati,  the  wife  of  Shiva,  so  called 
from  Parvat,  **a  mountain."  She  is 
said  to  be  the  daughter  of  the  Hima- 
laya. In  the  temple  is  a  silver  image  of 
Shiva,  with  images  of  Parbati  and 
Ganesh,  said  to  be  of  gold,  seated  on 
his  knees.  The  temple  was  built  in 
1749,  and  cost  £100,000.  During  the 
Diwali  the  temple  is  lighted  up  in  a 
beautiful  manner.  On  the  N.W.  side 
of  the  enclosing  wall  is  a  picturesque 
Moorish-looking  window,  whence  it  is 
said  Baji  Rao  watehed  the  defeat  of  his 
troops  at  Kirkee.  From  the  top  of 
this  wall,  reached  by  narrow  steps,  there 
is  an  extensive  view  over  Poena,  Kirkee, 
and  surrounding  country,  including 
Parbati  Tank  to  the  E.,  and  Parbati 
village  S.  of  the  tank  over  the  Hira 
Bagh  to  St.  Mary's  Church  and  the 
Jews'  Synagogue  far  to  the  N.E.    To 

1  He  was  the  author  of  Wild  Sports  in  ths 
West,  and  the  Higkla/nds  qf  Ethiopia. 


the  S.W.  is  a  rained  palace  of  the 
Peshwas,  which  was  struck  by  lightning 
in  1817,  the  year  of  Baji  Rao's  over- 
throw by  the  British.  The  Brahman 
who  shows  the  place  will  expect  a 
donation  of  1  r.  or  so  for  the  benefit 
of  the  temple  and  the  numerous  blind 
persons  who  frequent  the  hilL  At  the 
foot  of  the  hill  is  a  square  field,  which 
in  the  time  of  the  Peshwas  was  en- 
closed by  high  brick  walls.  Here  at 
the  end  of  the  rains,  about  the  tune 
of  the  Dasahra,  _gifts  in  money  were 
presented  to  all  Brahmans.  In  order 
to  prevent  the  holy  men  from  receim 
more  than  their  share,  they  were  passed 
into  this  enclosure,  at  the  gate  of  which 
stood  a  vast  cauldren  filled  with  red 
pigment.  Each  as  he  entered  was 
marked  with  this,  and  nothing  was 
given  till  all  had  gone  in.  They  were 
then  let  out  one  by  one,  and  3,  4,  or  5 
rs.  were  given  to  each.  On  one  occa- 
sion the  Peshwa  is  said  to  have  lavished 
£60,000  in  this  manner.  There  are 
several  other  temples  and  shrines  at 
the  top  of  the  hiU. 

[15  m.  S.  W.  from  Poona  is  Sinhgirh, 
a  place  very  famous  in  Maratha  annals, 
and  very  interesting  on  account  of  its 
scenery  as  well  as  historic  recollections. 
It  is  thus  described  by  Grant  Duff,  vol.  I 
p.  241,  where  he  speaks  of  its  aston; 
ishing  capture  by  the  renowned  Tanaji 
Malusre,m  February  1670:  "Sinhgarh 
is  situated  on  the  £.  side  of  the  great 
Sahyadri  range,  near  the  point  at  which 
the  Purandar  Hills  branch  off  into  the 
Deccan.  With  these  hills  it  conmnmi- 
cates  only  on  the  E.  and  W.by  very  high 
narrow  ridges,  while  on  the  S.  and  K. 
it  has  the  appearance  of  a  rugged  iso- 
lated mountain,  with  an  ascent  of  j 
m.,  in  many  parte  nearly  perpendi- 
cular. After  arriving  at  this  height 
there  is  an  immense  craggy  precipice 
of  black  rock  upwards  of  40  ft 
high,  and  surmounting  the  whole  is  a 
strong  stone  wall  wifli  towers.  The 
fort  is  of  an  irregular  shape;  the 
exterior  presente  on  all  sides  the 
stupendous  barrier  already  mentioned, 
so  that,  except  by  the  gates,  entrance 
seems  impossible.  From  the  snmmit, 
when  the  atmosphere  is  clear,  is  seen 

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ftOtfTi!  24.      FOONA 


%i^ 


to  the  E.  the  narrow  and  beautiful 
valley  of  the  Nira  ;  to  the  N.  a  great 
plain,  in  the  forepart  of  which  Poena, 
where  Shivaji  passed  his  youth,  is  a 
conspienous  object.  To  the  S.  and  W. 
appe^  boundless  masses  of  mountains 
lost  in  the  blue  clouds,  or  mingled  by 
distance  with  the  sky.  In  that  quarter 
liesRaigarh,  from  which  place,  directed 
by  Tanaji  Malusre,  the  thousand  Ma- 
walis,  prepared  for  the  attempt  on 
Sinhgarh,  set  out  by  different  paths, 
known  only  to  themselves,  which  led 
them  to  unite  near  the  fortress,  accord- 
ing to  the  words  of  the  Maratha  MS., 
'on  the  ninth  night  of  the  dark  half 
of  the  moon,  in  the  month  Magh.' 
Tanaji  divided  his  men ;  one  half  re- 
mained at  a  little  distance,  with  orders 
to  adyance  if  necessary,  and  the  other 
half  lodged  themselves  undiscovered  at 
the  foot  of  the  rock.  Choosing  a  part 
most  difficult  of  access,  as  being  the 
least  liable  to  discovery,  one  of  their 
number  mounted  the  rock  and  made 
fast  a  ladder  of  ropes,  by  which  they 
ascended  one  by  one  and  lay  down  as 
they  gained  the  inside.  Scarce  300 
had  entered  the  fort  when  something 
occasioned  an  alarm  among  the  garri- 
son that  attracted  their  attention  to  the 
<iuarter  by  which  the  Mawalis  were 
ascending.  A  man  advanced  to  ascer- 
tain what  was  the  matter.  A  deadly 
arrow  from  a  bowman  silently  answered 
his  inqrdries  ;  but  a  noise  of  voices  and 
aninning  to  arms  induced  Tanaji  to 
posh  forward,  in  hopes  of  still  surpris- 
ing them.  The  bowmen  plied  their 
arrows  in  the  direction  of  the  voices, 
till  a  blaze  of  blue  lights  and  a  number 
of  torches  kindled  by  the  garrison 
showed  the  Rajputs  armed  or  arming, 
and  discovered  their  assailants.  A 
desperate  conflict  ensued.  The  Ma- 
jlis, though  thus  prematurely  dis- 
covered, and  opposed  by  very  superior 
numbers,  were  gaining  ground  when 
Tanaji  Malusre  fell.  They  then  lost 
confidence,  and  were  running  to  the 
place  where  they  had  escaladed ;  but 
hy  that  time  the  reserve,  led  by  Tanaji's 
brother,  Suryaji,  had  ^entered.  On 
teaming  what  had  happened,  Suryaji 
rallied  the  fugitives,  asked  *Who 
amongst  them  would  leave  their  father's 


(commander's)  remains  to  be  tossed  into 
a  pit  by  Mahars  I '  told  them  the  ropes 
were  destroyed,  and  now  was  the  time 
to  prove  themselves  Shivaji's  Mawalis. 
This  address,  the  loss  of  Tanaji,  the 
arrival  of  their  companions,  and  the 
presence  of  a  leader,  made  them  turn 
with  a  resolution  which  nothing  could 
withstand.  *  Har  1  Har  I  Maha  Deo  ! ' 
their  usual  cry  on  desperate  onsets, 
resounded  as  they  closed,  and  they 
soon  found  themselves  in  possession  of 
the  fort.  Their  total  loss  was  esti- 
mated at  one-third  their  number,  or 
upwards  of  300  killed  or  disabled.  In 
the  morning  500  gallant  Rajputs,  to- 
gether with  their  commander,  were 
found  dead  or  wounded  ;  a  few  had  con- 
cealed themselves  and  submitted  ;  but 
several  hundreds  had  chosen  the  des- 
perate alternative  of  venturing  over 
the  rock,  and  many  were  dashed  to 
pieces  in  the  attempt.  The  precon- 
certed signal  of  success  was  setting  on 
fire  a  thatched  house  in  the  fort,  a 
joyful  intimation  to  Shivaji." 

On  the  1st  of  March  1818  Sinhgarh 
was  taken  by  the  English  without  loss. 
The  garrison,  1100  men,  of  whom  400 
were  Arabs,  capitulated,  after  being 
shelled  for  three  days,  in  which  time 
1400  shells  and  upwards  of  2000  shot 
were  fired  into  the  place.  The  ascent 
to  Sinhgarh  is  in  part  almost  perpen- 
dicular. Being  4162  ft.  above  tiie  sea, 
it  is  delightfully  cool,  and  the  views 
are  beautSuL  There  are  several  bunga- 
lows here  usually  occupied  by  Euro- 
peans in  summer. 

The  Journey, — Leave  Poona  very 
early,  in  order  to  reach  Sinhgarh  before 
the  heat  becomes  excessive.  Parbati 
will  be  reached  in  half  an  hour,  and 
horses  are  changed  after  the  first  hour. 

Between  the  tenth  and  eleventh  mile 
the  Lake  of  Khadakwasla  (or  Lake  Fife) 
is  reached.  The  word  signifies  **  stone 
junction,"  from  Khadak^  "  a  rock,"  and 
Wasla,  **  a  junction."  It  is  8  m.  long, 
formed  by  a  grand  stone  embankment, 
1  m.  lon^  thrown  across  a  stream,  and 
supplies  roona  with  water  and  also  two 
irrigation  canals.  There  is  some 
shooting  about  this  spot.  At  the  foot 
of  the  Sinhgarh  Mountain,  14  m.,  the 
carriage  is  exchangeiOor  a  pony,  or  a 

Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


330 


BOUTB  24.      BOVBAT  TO  ICADBAS 


India 


chair,  in  'which,  the  active  people  of 
the  locality  will  carry  the  traveUer  to 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  by  a 
zigzag  path  2^  m.  long.  After  reaching 
the  scarp  of  the  hill,  you  pass  through 
three  gateways  into  the  fort,  the  area 
inside  being  about  40  acres.  Kot  far 
from  the  gateway  are  stables  hewn  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  and  used  by  the 
Maratha  freebooters  in  Shivaji's  time. 
About  J  m.  from  the  giteway  to  the  E. 
is  a  temple  to  Ram  Raja,  and  near  it 
are  wells  and  a  tank  hewn  out  of  the 
solid  rock.] 

[Pnrandhar  is  a  strone  hill-fort  to 
the  S.E. ,  about  17  m.  as  the  crow  flies, 
and  24  m.  from  Poona.  The  upper  and 
lower  forts  are  situated  more  than  800 
ft.  below  the  summit,  which  is  4560  ft. 
above  sea-level,  and  are  protected  by  a 
perpendicular  scarp.  In  March  1818 
Purandhar  was  attacked  and  taken  by 
the  English  column  under  General 
Pritzler  (Blacker's  Maratha  WaVy  p. 
241).  Purandhar  is  used  as  a  con- 
valescent dep6t  for  troops.  There  is  a 
D.B.  there.  The  sportsman  may  find 
panthers  in  the  hills,  and  deer  and 
other  game  in  the  neighbourhood.] 

167  m.  Dhond  June  sta.  (R.) 
[From  this  place  the  Dhond  Mun- 
mar  State  Railway  runs  N.  joining 
the  N.E.  branch  of  the  G.I.P.  Rail- 
way at  the  latter  place  (see  Rte.  1). 
It  is  by  this  short  line  that  the  mails 
between  N.  and  S.  India  pass.  The 
only  place  of  importance  on  this  line 
is,  51  m.,  Ahmednagar  sta.  (R.)  D.B. 
(pop.  over  40,000),  the  third  city  of  the 
Deccan,  covering  3  sq.  m.,  on  the  1. 
bank  of  the  Siva,  and  founded  in  1494 
by  Ahmad  Nizam  Shah  Bahri,  son  of 
a  Brahman  of  Vijayanagar,  the  first 
of  a  Mohammedan  dynasty.  His  terri- 
tory was  the  only  part  of  the  W.  coast 
to  which  the  ravages  of  Portuguese 
piracy  did  not  extend.  They  main- 
tained a  friendly  intercourse  for  many 
years  with  Ahmednagar.  The  power 
of  that  state  extended  over  the  greater 
part  of  Berar  and  the  province  of  Au- 
rangabad  and  some  districts  in  Khan- 
desh,  Kalyan,  and  from  Bankot  to 
Bassein  in  the  Konkan.     The  Fort  feU 


into  Akbar's  hands  in  1605,  after  sob- 
taining  a  celebrated  siege  under  Qiind 
Bibi,  widow  of  'Ali  Adil  Shah,  of 
Bijapur.  (The  "Noble  Queen"  (rf 
Meadows  Taylor's  novel. )  It  was  taken 
from  the  Nizam  by  the  Marathas  in 
1760,  after  desperate  fighting.  In  1797 
the  fort  was  made  over  to  Sindia  by 
the  Peshwa,  from  whom  it  was  taken 
by  General  Welleslev,  afterwards  Dnke 
of  "Wellington,  on  the  12th  of  August 
1803.  A  tamarind  tree,  under  wnich 
the  Duke  of  Wellington  is  said  to  have 
lunched,  is  pointed  out  on  the  S.W. 
side  of  the  Fort 

The  Fort  is  in  the  centre  of  the  canton- 
ment, 2i  m.  N.  E.  of  the  rly.  sta.  Close 
to  it  are  Christ  Chwrch  and  a  R.G. 
Church.  The  European  Barmcks  are 
1  m.  S.E.  of  it,  and  the  N.I.  Lines  and 

D.  B.  are  N.  W.  of  it  The  gate  of  the 
Fort  towards  the  Poona  road  is  called 
the  Malle  Darwazah  ;  and  just  outside 
it  are  the  graves  of  two  British  officers 
who  fell  here  when  the  place  was 
stormed  in  1803.  The  town  though 
flourishing  and  with  good  bazaars  has 
now  no  architectural  interest  Ahmed- 
nagar is  an  im|)ortant  station  of  the 
S.P.G.,  and  of  the  Ladies^  Associa- 
tion, with  large  schools  and  branch 
missions  in  several  villages  in  the  dis- 
trict. 2  m.  from  the  Fort  is  the  Faria 
Bagh,  or  "fairy  garden,"  an  old  paUce 
of  the  Nagar  langs,  which  has  nothing 
attractive  beyond  historical  associa- 
tions. 

The  principal  sight  near  Ahmednagar 
is  the  Tomb  of  Sa£Bkbat  Khan  or  Ghaad 
Bibi  (for  it  is  doubtfnl  to  which  ot 
these  two  personages  it  belongs),  6  m. 
to  E.  on  a  hill  3080  ft.  The  building 
is  octagonal,  three  stories  high ;  fine 
view.  Below  is  the  crypt,  in  which  are 
two  tombs,  one  of  whicn  has  a  smaller 
tombstone  on  the  top  of  the  other. 
There  is  no  inscription.  The  first 
story  is  used  as  an  infirmary.     To  the 

E.  by  N.  is  a  very  large  tank.  To  the 
N.N.W.  is  Dongar  Gan,  12  m.  off, 
where  there  is  a  oungalow,  which  was 
a  hunting  seat  of  the  old  kines,  and  is 
now  a  place  to  which  the  En^ish  from 
Nagar  go  for  picnics.] 

184  m.    Diksal    sta.  a  small   vil- 


d  by  Google 


BOUTB  24.      KJBM — SBOLAPITR 


3S1 


lage.     2  m.  beyond  Diksal  the  Bhima 
river  is  crossed. 

223  m.  Eem  sta.,  is  a  large  and 
flonrishing  village,  the  largest  place 
between  Poona  and  Sholapur. 

234  m.  Bani  Road  sta.  This  is  the 
station  from  which  travellers  who 
intend  to  visit  Pandharpur  turn  off  to 
the  S.  (30  m.  by  road). 

262  m.  Mohol,  sta  24  m.  from 
Pandharpur. 

rPandharpur  (pop.  17,000),  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Bhima  river,  where 
is  a  very  celebrated  shrine  to  Witthoba, 
or  Withthal.  The  temple  is  said  to 
have  been  built  in  80  A.D.,  and  was 
rented  by  certain  Brahmans  till  1081, 
then  by  Bad  wars,  who  still  take  charge 
of  it.  The  first  chamber  in  the  temple 
is  a  room  40  ft.  sq.  with  pillars,  and 
without  windows  and  ventilation.  The 
second  pillar  on  the  left  is  covered  with 
silver  plates,  and  pilgrims  embrace  it. 
The  idol  chamber  is  8  ft.  sq.,  and  the 
idol  is  very  grotesque,  and  wears  a  high 
cap.  Immense  crowds  of  pilgrims  visit 
this  temple  at  certain  times,  particu- 
larly in  July  and  October,  and  suffer 
greatly  from  the  crush  and  the  want  of 
ventilation.  The  scene  on  the  Bhima 
river  at  the  time  of  the  pilgrimage  is 
most  animated  and  interesting.  28  m. 
E.  is  the  beautiful  unfinished  temple 
at  Vyayanagar  (Rte.  26),  said  to  have 
been  built  for  the  reception  of  this 
idol,  which  however,  refused  to  move. 
The  legend  is  that  a  Brahman  named 
Pandem,  going  on  a  pilgrimage  to 
Benaves,  neglected  his  parents  and 
stopped  in  a  Brahmans  house  at 
Panaharpur,  and  saw  Ganga,  Yamuna, 
and  Saraswati  acting  as  handmaids  to 
his  host  on  account  of  his  filial  piety. 
Pandelli  then  gave  up  his  pilmmage 
to  Benares,  stopped  at  Pandnarpur, 
and  treated  his  parents  with  great 
respect  and  honour,  whereupon  Vishnu 
became  incarnate  in  him  as  Wit- 
thoba.] 

283  m.  Sholapur  sta.  (D.B.),  (pop. 
62,000),  capital  of  a  coUectorate,  and 
formerly  protected  by  a  small  but 
strong  fort,  now  in  a  ruined  state. 
The  Fort  is  IJ  m.  N.E.  of  the  town, 


and  is  built  on  level  ground,  with  a 
very  slight  fall  to  the  N.  The  ram- 
parts are  of  mud,  with  a  favsse-hraie. 
The  outer  wall  has  battlemented  cur- 
tains and  4  inner  and  28  side  towers. 
There  is  a  moat  on  N.W.  and  S.  sides. 
The  Tank  of  Sadeshwa  is  to  the  E. 
The  first  gate  is  called  the  Ehata 
Darwazah  or  Spike  Gate,  from  the 
iron  spikes  on  the  huge  massive 
wooden  doors.  They  were  to  keep 
off  elephants,  which  used  to  be  trained 
to  break  in  gates  by  pushing  with  their 
foreheads.  It  has  an  uninteresting 
Persian  inscription,  with  a  date  corre- 
sponding to  1810  A.D.  In  the  revet- 
ments are  many  stones  taken  from 
Hindu  temples,  on  which  figures  of 
Vishnu,  Mahadeo,  and  of  elephants  and 
peacocks  are  seen. 

There  is  in  the  city,  which  lies  N. 
and  E.  of  the  Fort,  a  good  High  School 
for  boys,  and  a  school  for  girls,  which 
may  be  visited  by  those  interested  in 
educational  matters.  The  cantonment 
lay  S.E.  of  the  railway  station,  and 
there  was  once  a  strong  force  here, 
but  the  troops  have  been  withdrawn. 
In  April  1818  General  Munro  marched 
against  a  body  of  Baji  Rao's  infantry, 
4500  in  number,  with  13  guns,  attacked 
them  under  the  walls  of  Sholapur, 
and  routed  them  with  great  slaughter. 
The  Fort,  after  a  short  siege,  sur- 
rendered (Grant  Duff,  vol.  iii.  p.  484). 
There  is  a  fine  cottonmill  at  Sholapur, 
near  the  Police  Station  and  the  Kail- 
way.     It  is  worth  a  visit. 

At  about  3  m.  N.  of  the  city  of 
Sholapur  is  the  Ekrukh  Tank,  6  m. 
in  length,  formed  by  a  modern  embank- 
ment of  earth  and  rough  stones  1^  m. 
lon^  which  has  been  carried  across  the 
Adhin  river.  Three  canals  irrigate 
the  surrounding  country.  The  High- 
level  Canal  on  tne  left  bank  waters  863 
acres.  The  Low  -  level  Canal  waters 
10,601  acres.  The  High-level  waters 
567  acres.  The  greatest  height  of 
the  embankment  is  72^  ft.,  and  the 
greatest  depth  of  water  60  ft.  But  for 
this  lake,  the  whole  district  near, 
and  even  the  city  of  Sholapur  itself, 
would  be  deserted  during  a  famine. 
The  lake  was  constructed  as  a  Famine 
Work  in  1878.S0. 


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33^ 


BOUTS  ^i.      BOMBAT  TO  MADRAS 


India 


The  Waterworks  were  built  in 
1881,  at  a  cost  of  2J  lakhs  of  rapees, 
by  the  Municipality,  and  give  a 
daily  supply  of  6  gallons  a  head. 

Moti  Bagh  Tank  is  prettily  situated 
close  to  the  rly.  crossing  on  the  Bija- 
pur  road,  and  fringed  on  one  side  by 
a  magnificent  growth  of  babul  trees, 
A  very  pleasant  row  or  sail  can  be  had 
in  the  boats  belonging  to  the  Sholapur 
club ;  and  the  spot  affords  a  pleasant 
retreat  on  a  sultiy  evening. 

292  m.  Hotgi  junc.  sta.  (R.),  9  m. 
S.E.  of  Sholapur.  From  this  point 
the  Southern  Mahratta  Eailway  runs 
S.  to  Bijapur  and  Gadag  junc.  (see 
Rte.  28). 

853  m.  Eulbaxga  sta.  D.B.  The 
place  was  abandoned  as  the  seat  of  the 
Deccan  Government  in  1635  in  favour 
of  Bedar.  It  is  situated  in  an  undulat- 
ing plain,  a  somewhat  dreary  expanse 
of  black  soil,  relieved  by  outcrops  of 
limestone  and , thriving  young  planta- 
tions of  trees..  Houses  for  the  Nizam's 
officers,  who  command  the  troops  here, 
and  handsome  buildings  for  a  few 
public  offices  are  erected  on  the  Maidan^ 
which  stretches  away  from  the  railway 
station  to  the  city.  The  Old  Fort  in 
the  background,  black  with  a^,  and 
the  numerous  domes  with  which  the 
plain  is  dotted,  also  help  to  relieve 
the  generally  monotonous  aspect.  The 
first  object  which  attracts  attention  is 
a  large  domed  tomb,  the  sepulchre  of 
one  of  the  former  rulers  of  the  place, 
but  now  used  as  a  Residence  by  the 
Executive  Engineer.  A  fine  public 
garden  is  then  passed  ;  and  nearer  the 
town,  new  buildings  on  all  sides  bear 
testimony  to  the  reviving  prosperity 
of  the  place.  The  town  is  entered  by 
a  handsome  gateway. 

The  outer  walls  and  gateways  and 
most  of  the  old  buildings  of  the  Fort 
are  in  a  very  dilapidated  condition. 
The  Citadel  or  Bala  Hisar  has  suffered 
least.  On  the  top  of  it  is  a  curious  old 
gun,  26  ft.  long,  and  having  twenty 
pairs  of  iron  rings  attached  to  it,  by 
which  it  used  probably  to  be  slung  or 
lifted.     Close    by    is  an    old    Hindu 


temple  which  has  been  converted  into 
a  mosque. 

In  the  old  Fort  is  the  Jumma  Mnsjid, 
one  of  the  finest  old  Pathan  mosques 
in  India,  built  in  the  reign  of  Feroz 
Shah,  and  modelled  after  the  great 
mosque  of  Cordova  in  Spain.  Accord- 
ing to  Fergusson,  it  measures  216  ft  £. 
and  W.,  and  176  ft.  N.  and  S.,  and 
consequently  covers  an  area  of  38,016 
sq.  fL  Its  great  peculiarity  is  that 
alone  of  all  the  great  mosqnes  of  India 
the  whole  area  is  covered  in.  There  is 
therefore  no  court,  and  the  solid  roof 
affords  protection  from  the  sun  to  all 
worshippers,  while  the  light  is  admitted 
througn  the  side  walk,  which  are 
pierced  with  great  arches  on  all  sides 
except  the  W.  This  arrangement  is 
so  good  both  for  convenience  and 
architectural  effect  that  it  is  difficult 
to  understand  why  it  was  never  after- 
wards repeated.  It  stands  in  seemingly 
good  repair  after  four  centuries  of 
neglect,  and  owes  its  ^eatness  solely 
to  its  own  original  merit  of  design. 

The  Jail  is  the  model  institution  of 
the  sort  for  H.H.  the  Nizam's  Do- 
minions. It  is  said  to  be  exceedingly 
well  managed  and  to  be  worth  a  visit 

The  Talukdar*8  Court,  the  Judicial 
Offices,  and  the  Treasury  of  Ealbar^ 
are  located  in  the  grand  old  Tomte  m 
the  eastern  quarter  of  the  town.  These 
tombs  are  huge  square  buildings  sur- 
mounted by  domes,  and  are  the  burial- 
places  of  the  kings  who  reigned  here  at 
the  end  of  the  14th  century.  They 
are  roughly  yet  strongly  buUt,  and, 
with  the  exception  of  some  handsome 
stone  tracery,  which  has  unfortunately 
been  whitewashed,  none  of  them  con- 
tain exterior  ornaments  of  any  kind. 
The  interiors  are  more  elaborately 
finished. 

Some  little  distance  from  these 
tombs  is  the  shrine  or  Dargah  of  Banda 
Nawaz,  or  Gisu  Daraz,  a  celebrated 
Mohammedan  saint  (of  the  Chisti 
famUy),  who  came  to  Eulbar^  during 
the  reign  of  Feroz  Shah  in  1413. 
The  present  structure  is  said  to  have 
been  erected  in  1640  by  one  of  his 
descendants  during  the  rei^  of  Mah- 
mud  'Adil  Shah.     Shah   WaU,  Feroz 

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BOUm  24.      BHAHABAD — RAICHUB 


333 


Shah's  brother,  made  many  valuable 

E resents  to  the  saiad,  and  gave  him 
iTgejagirs,  and  built  him  a  magnifi- 
cent college  close  to  the  city.  Some  of 
his  descendants  still  reside  at  his  tomb. 
The  shrine  is  much  venerated  by  Mo- 
hammedans in  this  part  of  India,  and 
none  but  true  believers  are  admitted 
inside  its  portals.  Close  by  are  some 
buildings,  consisting  of  a  sarai,  mosque, 
and  college  (Madrassa),  said  to  have 
been  erected  by  Aurangzib,  who  visited 
Ealbarga  on  several  occasions.  Some 
distance  from  the  tomb  of  Banda  Nawaz 
is  the  Shrvne  of  Rukunu-d-din  another 
Mohammedan  saint,  who  resided  here 
at  the  same  time  as  Banda  Nawaz  ;  be- 
yond this  again  is  the  ShHne  of  Siraju- 
d-din,  who  preceded  the  other  saints  at 
the  court  oi  the  Bahmani  kin^s.  An- 
other remarkable  tomb  is  the  Cf?ior 
Ghimbaz  (" thief s  dome"),  W.  of  the 
city,  which  is  said  to  have  derived  its 
name  from  having  been  for  many  years 
the  haunt  of  a  robber,  who  used  to 
deposit  all  his  plunder  here. 

In  the  town  is  a  Bazaar  370  ft  x  60 
ft.,  adorned  by  a  row  of  61  Hindu 
arches,  with  a  very  ornamental  block  of 
buildings  at  either  end. 

370  m.  Shahabadsta.  (R.)  Known 
for  its  limestone  quarries.  Large 
quantities  of  the  stone  are  exported. 

376  m.  Wadi  junc.  sta.  (R.)  From 
here  the  Nizam's  State  Railway  runs  E. 
to  Hyderabad  (see  Rte.  25).  Passengers 
for  the  Nizam's  railway  change  car- 
riages. There  is  here  a  rest-camp  for 
troops  en  rovie  between  the  Madras 
Presidency  and  Bombay. 

385  m.  Nalwar  sta.  The  shooting 
in  this  neighbourhood  is  good  both  for 
large  and  small  game. 

427  m.  Krishna  sta.  Here  the  rail- 
way crosses  the  Kistna  river  by  a  grand 
bridge  3854  ft.  long. 

443  m.  Baichur  sta.  (R.)  At  this 
point  the  Great  Indian  Peninsula  Rail- 
way and  the  Madras  Railway  meet. 
Madras  is  distant  350  m. 

Raichur  formed  part  of  the  dominions 


of  the  Bahmani  kings  in  1357.  It  was 
included  in  the  government  of  Bijapur 
(see  Grant  Duff,  vol.  i.  p.  65),  and  was 
governed  in  1478  by  Khwajah  Jehan 
Gawan.  "When  Bijapur  became  an  in- 
dependent kingdom,  Raichur  was  its 
S.  capital.  The  Fort  is  about  IJ  m. 
from  the  railway  station.  The  N.  gate, 
flanked  by  towers,  is  best  worth  atten- 
tion. There  is  a  stone  elephant  not 
quite  the  natural  size  carved  out  of  a 
boulder  about  50  yds.  outside  the  gate, 
At  right  angles  to  this  gate  is  another 
called  the  Easbah  Darwazah.  Outside 
this  gate  is  the  door  of  a  tunnel  out  of 
which  the  garrison  came  to  close  the 
gate,  and  then  retired  by  the  under- 
ground passage  into  the  Fort.  The 
W.  gate  is  called  the  Sikandariyah, 
and  near  it  is  the  old  palace,  with 
immensely  thick  walls,  now  a  jail. 

The  Citadel  ought  to  be  seen  for  the 
sake  of  the  fine  view,  extending  as  far 
as  the  Tungabhadra  river,  16  m.  to  the 
S.,  and  the  Krishna,  12  m.  to  the  N. 
The  ascent  commences  from  near  the 
N.  gate.  The  hill  on  which  it  is  built 
consists  of  immense  boulders  of  rock, 
and  is  over  290  ft.  high.  The  path  up 
is  broken  and  unsafe  after  dark.  On 
the  left  is  a  row  of  cells  belonging  to 
the  darga\  or  shrine,  and  at  the  E. 
end,  overhanging  the  precipice,  is  a 
stone  pavilion.  Near  this  on  the  E. 
is  a  mosque  18  ft.  high  ;  and  on  the  S. 
side  is  a  place  for  a  bell  or  gong  7  ft. 
high,  with  stone  supports  and  a  stone 
roof.  The  whole  surface  of  the  top 
is  70  ft.  square.  The  town  is  to  the 
E.  of  the  Fort. 

486  m.  Adoni  sta.  (pop.  22,500). 
This  is  one  of  the  principal  cotton- 
marts  in  the  Deccan.  The  town  is 
of  some  historical  interest.  Accord- 
ing to  tradition,  it  was  founded  3000 
years  ago  by  Chandra  Sing  of  Bedar. 
After  the  battle  of  Telikot  in  1554, 
the  Sultan  of  Bijapur  appointed  Malik 
Rahman  Khan,  an  Abyssinian,  to 
govern  it,  which  he  did  for  39  years, 
and  died  there.  His  tomb  on  the 
Talibanda  hill  is  still  an  object  of 
religious  veneration.  He  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  adopted  son  Sidi  Mas'aud 
Khan,  who  built  the  lower  fort,  and  the 

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ROUTE  24.   BOKBAT  TO  MADRAS 


India 


fine  Jamma  Musjid.  In  1690  Adoni 
was  taken,  after  a  desperate  resist- 
ance, by  one  of  Aurangzib's  generals, 
and  afterwards  fell  to  the  Nizam. 
Salabat  Jang  i^anted  it  in  jagir  to 
Bazalat  Jang,  his  younger  brother,  who 
made  it  his  capital,  and  endeavoared  to 
form  an  independent  state.  He  died 
in  1782,  and  was  buried  at  Adoni,  and 
a  fine  mosque  and  tomb  were  erected 
over  his  grave  and  that  of  his  mother. 
Government  grant  1200  rs.  yearly  for 
the  support  of  these  buildings  ana  the 
charities  connected  with  them,  but  the 
edifice  has  gone  sadly  to  decay.  In 
1786  the  citadel  was  captured  by  Tipu 
after  one  month's  siege.  He  demol- 
ished the  fortifications,  and  removed 
the  guns  and  stores  to  Gooty.  In  1792 
it  was  restored  to  the  Nizam,  and  ex- 
changed by  him  with  the  British  in 
1799  A.D.  for  other  places.  The  citadel 
is  built  on  five  hills,  of  which  the  best 
known  are  the  Barakila  and  the  Tali- 
banda,  both  of  which  rise  800  ft.  above 
the  plain.  Half-way  up  the  rock  is  a 
fine  tank  containing  good  water,  and 
never  dry. 

518  m.  Quntakal  junc  sta.  (R.) 
From  this  junc.  the  line  runs  N.W. 
to  Bombay,  S.E.  to  Madras,  S.  to 
Bangalore,  N.E.  to  Bezwada,  Vizaga- 
patam,  Vizianagram  (on  the  way  to 
Cuttack),  and  W.  to  Bellary,  Hospet 
(for  Vijayanagar),  and  Goa. 

586  m.  CN>oty  sta.  (R. )  Nearly  2  m.  S. 
of  the  railway  station  is  an  interesting 
old  hill-fort.  It  was  taken  by  Hyder 
'Ali  in  1776  after  a  siege  of  nine  months. 
The  water  failed,  and  the  garrison  were 
forced  by  thirst  to  surrender.  The 
fort  is  950  ft.  above  the  plain,  and  2000 
ft  above  the  sea.  Sir  Thos.  Munro 
was  buried  at  Gooty,  but  was  subse- 
quently removed  to  Madras.  There  is 
a  monument  to  him  in  the  churchyard 
here. 

566  m.  Tadpatri  sta.  (R.)  The 
town  was  founded  during  the  time  of 
the  Vijayanagar  kings  about  1485, 
when  the  highly  decorative  temples 
were  built    Ijie  one  on  the  river-bank 


waa  never  finished,  but  is  the  mort 
imposing.    See  Fergusson,  pp.  875-378. 

632  m.  Caddapah  sta.  (R.) 

710  m.  Benigunta  sta.  (R.),  junc- 
tion of  the  Metre-gauge  State  Railway 

(1)  N.E.  to  Nellore  (see  below),  and 

(2)  S.  and  S.R  to  Tirupati  (see  below), 
Vellore  (Rte.  29),  and  ViUupuram  (Rte. 
31). 

(1)  [75  m.  Nellore  sta.  (R.)  Chief 
town  of  the  district,  stands  on  the  rt 
bank  of  the  River  Pennar  8  m.  from  its 
mouth  (30,000  inhab.)  Here,  in  the 
ruins  of  a  Hindu  Temple,  was  found  a 
pot  of  Homan  gold  coins  and  medals  of 
the  2d  cent.  There  are  here  MlBWom 
of  the  Roman  Catholics,  Scotch  Free 
Church,  American  Baptists,  and  Her- 
mansburg  Lutherans.] 

(2)  [8  m.  Tirupati  sta.,  4c  D.B.  This 
town  of  14,000  inhab.,  crowded  at  all 
times  with  pilgrims,  is  celebrated  for 
one  of  the  most  sacred  Hill  Pagodas  in 
S.  India.  It  stands  at  the  top  of  the 
"holy  hill'*  called  Tirumala,  and  is 
about  8  m.  from  the  rly.  sta.  Travellers 
must  be  wary  of  thieves,  who  arenumer- 
ous.  Upon  the  hill  they  will  be  nestwed 
by  menaicants.  Looking  from  tne  town 
only  one  path  up  the  hill  can  be  seen 
along  which  at  intervals  are  three 
gopuras,  or  gateways,  under  which  the 
pil^ms  pass.  The  last  gopura  is  at 
the  top  of  the  hill.  On  the  other  side 
of  the  hill  there  are  paths  up,  but  all 
very  difficult.  For  some  years  the 
temple  was  under  the  management  of 
the  British  Government,  but  in  1843 
charge  of  it  was  given  over  to  a  Mahant 
or  Hindu  Abbot,  who  with  his  co- 
authorities  controls  the  expenditure 
and  the  worship.  The  antiquity  of 
the  temple  is  indisputable,  but  its 
origin  is  involved  in  obscuriW.  The 
idol  is  an  erect  stone  figure  7  ft.  high, 
with  four  arms,  representing  Yishnu. 
No  European  ascended  the  hill  on 
which  is  Upper  Tirupati,  that  is  the 
temple  and  its  suburbs,  till  1870,  when 
the  Superintendent  of  Police,  in  spite 
of  the  remonstrances  of  the  Mahant, 
went  up  ia  search  of  an  escaped  forger. 


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BOUTB  24.   OHANDRAGIRI — ARKONAM 


385 


It  is  2500  ft.  high,  and  quite  bare  and 
without  vegetation.  The  N.  ascent 
on  the  Cuddapah  side  is  from  the  small 
village  of  Balapilli,  over  hills  and 
through  thick  jungle,  where  tigers 
and  panthers  are  not  unknown.  The 
hill  has  seven  peaks.  On  the  seventh 
peak,  Shri  Yenkataramanachellam,  is 
the  pagoda.  A  broad  belt  of  mango, 
tamarind,  and  sandal  trees  surrounds 
the  temple.  There  is  a  decent  bunga- 
low built  on  the  top  of  the  mountain 
for  lodging  European  visitors.  In  the 
town  is  a  dispensary,  in  part  supported 
by  the  Mahant.  Idols  are  very  well 
carved  in  the  town,  of  brass,  or  of  red 
wood — the  Pterocarpus  santalimis.  E. 
of  the  temple  is  a  tank.  There  is  also 
a  Hall  of  1000  Pillars,  which  cannot 
compare  with  that  at  Madura,  or  those 
at  Cnedambaram  or  Conjeveram.  There 
are  sixteen  waterfalls  in  various  parts 
of  the  hilL  It  is  said  that  Abbe 
Dubois  was  the  first  to  visit  the  hill, 
but  he  probably  did  not  ascend  it. 


14  m.  Chandragiri  sta.  In  the  palace 
here  the  representatives  of  the  Vijayan- 
agar  dynasty  of  the  day  (1639)  mjade  to 
the  E.I.  Co.  the  original  grant  of  the 
land  on  which  Fort  St.  George  (Madras) 
was  built     The  Government  carefully 

E reserve  the  palace,  and  it  is  used  as  a 
alting-place  for  officials.  It  is  most 
picturesquely  situated  in  the  Fort,  and 
at  the  back  of  it  is  a  high  rocky  hill. 
After  the  defeat  of  Talikot  in  1564 
this  was  the  residence  of  the  Rajas  of 
Vyayanagar. 

78  m.  Vellore  sta.  (Rte.  29). 

272  m.  Villnpnram  sta.  (Rte.  31).] 

From  Renigunta  sta.  the  line  con- 
tinues S.E.  to 

751    m.   Arkonam  June.   sta.   (R. ) 

The  N.W.  and  S.  W.  branches  of 
the  Madras  Railway  join  at  this  point, 
and  a  branch  of  the  the  South  Indian 
Railway  runs  S.  to  Chingleput. 

793  m.  Madras. 


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MADRAS  OITT 


MADRAS   CITY* 

CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

Agrieoltuie,  Ck>llege  of    .       .       .       .842 

Arsenal 338 

Black  Town 837 

Board  of  Bevenae  Offices        .       .       .    889 

Botanical  Gardens 841 

Cathedrals— Roman  Catholic  ...    341 

St.  George's 340 

St.  Thom6  (Roman  Catholic)  .  .  840 
Central  Railway  Station .  .  .  .  842 
Chepauk  Park  and  Buildings  .  .839 

Christian  College 837 

Churches— Armenian       .       .  .841 

„       (Great  Mount) .        .    348 

Church  Mission  Chapel        .  .341 

Emanuel 841 

English  Church  (Great  Mount)    .       .    343 

St.  Andrew's 840 

St.  Mary's 840 

St  Matthias*  (Vepery)  ....    841 

St.  Thomd 840 

Wcsleyan  Chapel 341 

Civil  Engineering  College        .        .        .889 

Climate 887 

Connemara  Free  Library .       .       .       .341 

Fort  St.  (Jeor^e 837 

General  Hospital 388 

Goveruor's  Country  House     ...    843 
Government  House .       .       .       .       .880 

Great  Mount 848 

Gun-carriage  Factory      .       .       .        .841 

Harbour  Works 887 

High  Court  Buildings      .        .        .        .887 
Institutions,  Educational,  etc.— 
Agriculture,  College  of        .        .        .    842 
Civil  Engineering  College    .        .       .839 


i 


Medical  College S» 

Old  College Sil 

Pacheappah's  College  and  Hall    .        .  Stf 

School  of  Arts M 

Teachers'  College M 

Victoria  Technical  Institute        .        .  at 

Island 

Jaa 

Landing-place 

Lighthouse 80 

Little  Mount 3tt 

Marina  (Promenade)        ...        .  8tf 

Marmalong  Bridge 8tt 

Medical  College 8» 

Memorial  Hal SSI 

Mount  Road Uk 

Museum  (Arsenal) SSS 

„       (Pantheon  Road)       .       .        .  Sfl 

Observatory 30. 

Old  College Sfl 

Pacheappah's  College  and  Hall       .        .  8S8 

People's  Park 341 

Promenade  or  Marina      ...        .  3tf 

Race-course S43 

Saidapet  Model  Farm      ....  342 

School  of  Arts 339 

Senate  House 3SI> 

Sport        .......  84S 

Statues 3« 

Suburbs    .       .  .       .        .        .  84« 

Triplicane 840 

Veterinary  Hospital  (Govt.)    .       .        .  84S 
Victoria  Technical  Institute   .       .        .841 

Victoria  Town  Hall 841 


On  the  first  appearance  of  the  builds 
ings  of  Madras  City  from  the  sea,  the 
stranger  must  feel  surprised  how  so 
great  a  capital  should  have  grown  up 
on  such  an  exposed  coast,  with  appar- 
ently so  little  convenience  for  trade. 
But  the  whole  line  of  coast,  from  Ceylon 
to  Orissa,  has  not  one  convenient  har- 
bour ;  although  at  Yizagapatam  there 
is  a  natural  opening  which  could,  at 
considerable  expense,  be  converted  into 
a  harbour  of  some  magnitude.  Madras 
heis  no  great  river  near  it  to  bring  down 
products  from  inland  regions,  the  bulk 
of  the  traffic  reaching  the  coast  by 
means  of  2  lines  of  rly.  ;  they  are 
supplemented  by  a  long  series  of  canals 
along  the  coast,  the  line  of  which 
passes  through  the  town  S.  to  the 
South  Aroot  District,  and  N.  to  the 
Godavari,  a  length  of  250  m. 


The  city  and  its  suburbs  extend  9 
along  the  coast,  covering  an  area  of  ^ 
sq.   m.     Pop.   in   1881,   406,000;  ii 
1891,  460.000. 

Landing-place. — Passengers  anl 
cargo  are  landed  or  embarked  in  jollj 
boats  or  masula  boats,  which  are  flaf 
bottomed  barges  constructed  of  mangjl 
wood,  and  sewn  together  with  cocoa-nnl 
fibre.  The  landing  charges  are  fd 
masula  boats  2*8  rs.,  jolly  boats  1  r.j 
passengers  land  without  difficulty  al 
the  Fier,  which  is  1000  ft.  long,  anJ 
40  ft.  wide,  with  a  T  head.  . 

The  Madras  coast  is  oocasionallrl 
visited  by  cyclonic  storms,  sometimes 
terrific  violence.  Cn  Oct.  3,  1746, ' 
days  after  the  surrender  of  Madras  to 
French,  there  was  a  dreadful  cydon* 
in  which  the  Due  tPOrleans,  Ihm' 
and  Lys  foundered  with  upwards 


d  by  Google 


d  by  Google 


*!pa^iL'9'9jsr^ 


\/ 


i 

i  traffic  re 
of  2  line 
mented  by  , 
the  coast^ 
through 
Aroot  Dial 
rii  a  lengtl 


'-**M. 


lesof 

;,  23 

)the 
"«rea  mth  np»Mds  of 


I  3n.  The  Mermaid  and  Advice^ 
'  ilso  went  down  ;  and  the  flag- 
hille  was  dismasted,  and  saved 
ifficulty,  after  the  lower  guns 
en  thrown  overboard.  Out  of 
3r  vessels  then  in  the  Madras 
lot  one  escaped.  There  have 
jther  frightful  hurricanes  in 
.807,  and  1811.  On  the  latter 
a  the  Dover  frigate  and  Chichester 
lip  foundered,  and  90  coasting 
went  down  at  their  anchors. 
;  this  hurricane  the  surf  broke  at 
distance  from  the  shore.  On 
,  1872  there  was  another  great 
in  which  the  Hotspur  and  8 
aan  vessels  and  20  native  vessels 
gether  4133  tons  were  lost.  As 
ore  is  sandy,  stretching  in  nearly 
ight  line  from  N.  by  E.  to  S. 
for  many  miles,  without  creek 
y  or  other  natural  facility  for 
3g  a  harbour,  artificial  works  have 
0  be  designed.  On  the  occasion 
!  Prince  of  "Wales's  visit  in  1875, 
aaorial  stone  was  laid  commem- 
ig  the  commencement  of  the 
'ur  works,  designed  by  W.  Parkes, 
D.E.,  who  had  constructed  the 
3hi  harbour.  The  works  were 
y  complete,  at  a  cost  of  5,800,000 
when  in  Nov.  1881  a  violent 
ne  occurred  which  seriously 
ed  them,  and  breached  about  i  m. 
aakwater  out  of  a  total  of  l|  m. 
mended  design  was  then  approved, 
the  works  have  since  been  com- 
d.  The  harbour  consists  of  two 
:waters  to  the  N.  and  S.  of  the 
jm  House,  enclosing  the  pier, 
h  runs  out  from  the  Custom 
le.  It  was  proved  during  the 
;  cyclone  of  1881  that  no  harbour 
can  ever  be  regarded  as  a  har- 
of  refuge,  and  consequently  ships 
low  ordered  to  put  out  to  sea  at 
rst  indication  of  a  cyclone.  But 
leme  of  docks  to  be  constructed 
he  south  foreshore,  with  the  har- 
forming  the  entrance,  is  under 
ideration.  The  sand  along  the 
t  is  unusually  flat  seawards,  reach- 
a  depth  of  10  fathoms  only  at  a 
dis  ance  of  1  m.  from  the  shore,  and  to 
this  may  be  partly  attributed  the  pecu- 
liarity of  the  Madras  surf. 


liiaHTHOUSt! 


as? 


The  wind  from  the  S.W.  blows  from 
April  to  Oct.  and  that  from  the 
N.E.  from  Oct.  to  April.  The  S.W. 
monsoon  breezes  aie  for  the  most  jiart 
light.  The  N.E.  monsoon  briugs  ilie 
rainy  season  on  the  east  coast,  which 
is  from  October  to  December.  The  S.  W. 
monsoon  rains  fall  on  the  east  coast 
from  the  end  of  May  to  the  middle  of 
October.  The  average  rainfall  at 
Madras  is  50  in. ,  nearly  half  of  which 
falls  in  November. 

November,  December,  and  January 
are  comparatively  cool,  but  there  is  no 
really  cold  weather  in  the  plains  in 
Madras.  The  rise  of  tide  does  not  ex- 
ceed 3  to  4  ft.,  even  at  equinoctial 
springs. 

The  Post  Office,  new  Bank  of  Madras 
building,  old  High  Court,  now  occupied 
by  the  Port  and  Customs  Offices,  and 
various  houses  of  business  extend  along 
the  shore  facing  the  harbour.  W.  of 
these  is  a  thickly  inhabited  quarter 
chiefly  inhabited  by  natives,  and  known 
as  Black  Town,  In  it  is  Popham's 
Broadway,  a  long  thoroughfare  contain- 
ing several  large  shops,  the  old  Bank 
of  Madras,  and  churches. 

The  old  Lighthouse,  which  still  stands 
on  the  Esplanade,  has  been  superseded 
by  a  tower  on  the  High  Court  Build- 
ings, which  has  been  furnished  with 
the  latest  improved  light  apparatus. 

The  New  Law  Court  Buildings  form 
a  handsome  pile,  designed  and  erected 
in  the  Hindu-Saracenic  style,  by  J. 
W.  Brassington,  H.  Irwin,  C. I.E.,  and 
J.  H.' Stephens.  They  cover  an  area 
of  100,000  sq.  ft.,  were  commenced  in 
1888,  and  the  law  courts  were  formally 
opened  in  1892.  The  arrangement  of 
the  interior  is  good,  and  the  internal 
decoration  of  wood  carving  and  painted 
glass  is  well  worthy  of  inspection.  All 
the  materials  employed  in  the  building 
were  obtained  in  the  country.  West 
of  the  Law  Courts  is  the  new  Law 
College,  a  fine  structure  in  similar  style, 
designeid  by  H.  Irwin,  CLE. 

The  Madras  Christian  College  Build- 
ings, erected  at  a  cost  of  £50,000,  form 
one  of  the  finest  Colleges  in  India. 

Fort  St.  George  contains  the  Euro- 
pean barracks,  the  Arsenal,  St.  Mary's 
Church,  and  some  of  the  Government 

Digitized  by  GoOgleZ 


938 


MADBAS  OITT 


India 


Offices.  It  was  designed  by  Mr. 
Bobins,  mathematical  professor  at  Wool- 
Tfich,  who  was  made  commander-in- 
chief  at  Madras.  The  £.  face  of 
the  Fort  is  only  separated  from  the  sea 
by  a  broad  road,  and  a  sandy  beach  ac- 
cumulated during  the  present  century. 
The  £.  £Eice  is  straight,  but  the  W.  face 
landward  is  in  the  form  of  a  crescent, 
well  protected  by  cross-fire  from 
different  bastions,  and  surrounded  by  a 
deep  fosse,  crossed  by  a  drawbridge. 

Here,  on  Sept.  10,  1746,  M.  de  la 
Bourdonnais  received  in  the  name  of 
the  French  king  the  surrendered  keys, 
which  were  restored  to  the  English 
by  the  Treaty  of  Aix-la-Chapelle.  On 
Dec.  14,  1758  the  French  arnved  before 
it  under  the  command  of  M.  Lally,  but 
retreated  on  Feb.  16,  1759,  leaving 
behind  them  52  cannon  and  many  of 
their  wounded.  The  French  made  their 
approach  on  the  N.  side,  and  their 
prindnal  battery,  called  Lally's,  must 
have  been  near  where  the  Christian 
College  House  now  stands,  as  it  was 
close  to  the  beach,  and  about  580  yds. 
N.  of  the  Fort  Another  batten^  was 
at  the  native  cemetery  in  Black  Town, 
and  a  third  about  400  yds.  to  the  S.W. 
In  April  1769,  while  the  English  forces 
were  far  away,  Hyder  'Ali  made  his 
appearance  with  his  cavalry,  and  dic- 
tated to  the  Governor  the  terms  on 
which  he  would  spare  the  defenceless 
territory.  Again,  on  August  10, 
1780,  and  once  more  in  Jan.  1792, 
the  garrison  were  alarmed  by  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  Mysore  cavalry.  Here 
m  Writer's  Buildings,  Olive  twice 
snapped  a  pistol  at  his  own  head. 
From  this  Fort  he  marched  to  his 
first  victories,  and  from  it  went  the 
army  which,  on  May  4,  1799,  killed 
Tipu  and  captured  Seringapatam.  The 
Accountant  -  General's  Office  in  the 
Fort  was  formerly  the  Government 
House.  On  the  ground -floor  of  the 
Secretariat  Buildings  are  the  volumin- 
ous Records. 

The  Grand  Arsenal  forms  a  long 
parallelogram  on  the  first  floor.  In  it 
IS  the  Musewm,  containing  amongst 
other  objects :  four  comets,  or  flags, 
belonging  to  the  1st  and  2d  Regiments 
of   Madras  Cavalry — the  oldest  flags 


taken  from  the  Dutch  and  French  are 
sewn  up  in  covers,  to  protect  them 
from  the  squirrels,  which  have  de- 
stroyed many,  using  them  to  make 
their  nests  ; — ^two  iron  helmets  taken  at 
Manilha  {sic)  in  1762,  one  weighing  10 
lbs.,  the  other  14  lbs.  There  is  also 
a  very  curious  brass  mortar  from  Kur- 
nool,  shaped  like  a  tiger  sitting  with 
legs  planted  almost  straight  out.  Also 
a  handsome  gun  taken  from  Jeswant 
Rao  Holkar,  with  his  name  and  the 
date,  1218  A.H.  =1803  A.D. ;  the  cage 
in  which  Captain  P.  Anstruther,  KA, 
was  kept  prisoner  in  China  for  sev^ 
months;  a  very  fine  bronze  bell 
taken  by  Major  M'Intyre  at  Ohing 
Eang  Foo ;  the  colours  taken  at  the 
capture  of  Sadras  in  1780,  and  £roin 
the  French  at  Pulicat  in  1781 ;  the 
Dutch  colours  taken  at  Amboyna  in 
1810 ;  tiger-headed  guns  taken  at 
Seringapatam  in  1792 ;  a  wall-piece, 
which  belonged  to  the  Nawab  of  the 
Camatic,  the  barrel  of  which  is  12  ft 
long ;  the  six  keys  of  Pondicheiry, 
taken  in  1778 ;  a  bifurcate  projectile, 
which,  after  issuing  from  the  cannon, 
opens  out  like  a  cu)uble-bladed  sword 
to  the  length  of  5  ft  10  in. ;  a  wall- 
piece  brought  from  Bellary,  the  banel 
of  which  is  15  ft.  long,  though  the 
bore  is  only  IJ  in.  ;  leather  petanls 
with  straps  to  fasten  them  to  a  gate. 

Across  the  Esplanade  W.  of  the  Fort 
are  Pacheappah's  Coll^  and  HaU. 
The  latter  is  of  Greek  Ionic  architecture, 
and  of  noble  proportions.  Both  build- 
ings owe  their  erection  to  Pacheappah 
Mudelliar,  a  wealthy  and  benevolent 
Hindu  gentleman  who,  dying  a  hun- 
dred years  ago  when  education  wa«; 
almost  unknown  in  Madras,  endowed 
various  religious  and  scholastic  insti- 
tutions and  private  charities  with  no 
less  than  a  lakh  of  pagodas. 

The  Jail  or  Penitentiary  is  i  m.  "W. 
of  the  Fort 

The  General  Hospital  is  opposite  the 
Central  Rly.  sta.     The  records  go  back 
to  1829.    Dr.  Mortimer  published  i 
account  of  it  in  1838.     On  the  E.  si< 
there  is  a  large  detached  building^ 
commodating  the  Medical  College.  ' 
hospital  contains  500  beds,  and  is  U 
both  Europeans  and  natives.   The 

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389 


IGlitary  Hospital  is  S.  of  the  Fort, 
iihe  Maternity  and  Ophthalmic 
Hospitals  are  in  Egmore,  and  there 
are  other  hospitals  in  Black  Town, 
and  also  a  model  Leper  Asylum. 

The  Memorial  Hall,  near  the  General 
Hospital,  is  a  massive  building  of  no 
great  architectural  beauty,  erected  by 
public  subscription  in  commemoration 
of  "the  goodness  and  forbearance  of 
Almighty  God  in  sparing  this  Presi- 
dency from  the  Sepoy  Mutiny  which 
devastated  the  sister  Presidency  of 
Bengal  in  the  year  1857."  It  is  avail- 
able for  public  meetings  of  a  religious, 
educational,  charitable,  and  scientific 
character;  its  doors  being  closed  a^inst 
"balls,  concerts,  theatrical  exhibitions, 
and  such-like  entertainments  as  have 
the  character  of  mere  worldly  amuse- 
ment. "  The  Bible  Society  occupies  the 
basement,  and  the  Tract  ana  Book 
Society  an  adjacent  building  somewhat 
in  the  same  style  of  architecture. 

The  People's  Park,  close  to  the  Cen- 
tral Railway  Station.  Madras  owes 
this  place  of  public  resort  to  Sir  Charles 
Trevelyan,  a  former  governor.  It 
embraces  116  acres  of  land,  with  roads 
extending  to  5^  m.  It  has  eleven 
artificial  lakes,  a  public  bath,  a  fine 
zoological  collection,  tennis  courts,  and 
a  bandstand  ;  but  is  not  kept  up  veiy 
well  owing  to  want  of  funds.  S.  of  it 
stands  the  Victoria  Town  Hall^  facing 
the  road,  raised  by  public  subscrip- 
tion 1883-88  (Mr.  Chisholm,  archi- 
tect). The  building  is  in  keeping  with 
the  neighbouring  Central  Station. 

The  School  of  Arts,  near  St.  Andrew's 
Kirk,  was  established  as  a  private  insti- 
tution by  Dr.  Alexander  Hunter  in 
1850,  and  for  five  years  was  mainly 
mpported  by  that  worthy  Doctor's 
[)nvate  purse.  Government  took  it 
)ver  in  1866. 

Government  House  is  about  \  a  mile 
\.  of  tiie  Fort.  The  entrance  hall  is 
pacious,  and  contains  a  full-length 
)ortrait  of  'Azim  Jah,  the  Nawab  of 
^Tcot,  and  two  pictures  of  his  sons.  In 
he  breakfast-room  is  a  picture  of  the 
QstaUation  of  Nawab  Ghulam  Muham- 
oad  Ghaus  Ehan  under  the  governor- 
hip  of  Lord  Elphinstone,  with  the 
lite  1842.     In  tne  dining-room  is  a 


portrait  of  Olive,  and  one  of  Nawab 
Shig'au-daulah,  of  Oudh,  and  also 
one  of  the  Nawab  'Umdatu-l-Umara. 
In  the  drawing-room  is  a  fiill-length 
portrait  of  Lady  Munro,  by  Sir  Thomas 
Lawrence,— one  of  his  finest  pictures. 
There  is  also  a  portrait  of  the  Mar- 
chioness of  TweeddiJe.  The  hariquet' 
ing-hall,  in  a  detached  building,  is  a 
noble  room  80  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  broad, 
and  very  lofty.  The  principal  entrance 
is  on  the  N.,  and  is  approached  by  a 
broad  and  lofty  flight  of  stone  steps. 
The  hall  was  constructed  during  Lord 
Clive's  government  to  commemorate 
the  fall  of  Seringapatam.  Bound  the 
walls  are  large  pictures  of  Queen 
Victoria  seated  ;  George  III.,  taken  at 
the  beginning  of  his  reign;  Queen 
Charlotte  ;  a  full-length  of  Sir  Thomas 
Munro,  probably  by  Sir  T.  Lawrence  ; 
Robert,  Lord  Hobart,  1790-98;  Lord 
Harris  ;  General  Meadows ;  Lord  Mor- 
nington,  afterwards  Marquis  Wellesley, 
seated  on  the  terrace  of  the  old  Govern- 
ment House  in  the  Fort,  with  two  flags 
on  his  left,  the  British  surmounting  that 
of  Tipu, — the  steeple  of  old  St.  Mary's 
Church  is  also  shown ;  also  General 
Wellesley  (Duke  of  Wellington) ;  Sir 
C.  Trevelyan  in  an  oratorical  attitude  ; 
General  Sir  S.  Auchmuty  ;  General  Sir 
Eyre  Coote  ;  Lord  Comwallis,  standing 
in  the  act  of  giving  a  command ;  Sir 
Thomas  Strange  in  l£e  robes  of  a  judge  ; 
Lord  Napier  and  Ettrick,  K.T.,  in  the 
robes  of  a  peer  ;  the  Marquis  of  Tweed- 
dale,  Sir  M.  S.  Grant  Duff";  Lord 
Connemara,  and  others. 

On  the  road  from  the  Fort  to  Mount 
Road  stands  a  bronze  equestrian  statiie 
of  Sir  T,  Mvm>rOy  by  Chan  trey,  erected 
by  public  subscription  in  1839  at  a  cost 
of  £9000. 

The  Island  is  a  large  recreation  and 
parade  ground  between  the  Fort  and 
Government  House.  The  Gymkhana 
Club  pavilion  is  a  handsome  structure 
in  the  S.W.  comer,  on  the  banks  of 
the  Cooum. 

The  Chepauk  Park  and  Buildings.— 
This  park  was  once  the  property  of  the 
Nawabs  of  the  Camatic.  On  the  death 
of  the  last  occupant  of  the  mumvd^  the 
property  escheated  to  Government,  to- 
gether with  the  old  palace,  a  structure 

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340 


HABBAS  CTTT 


India 


of  mixed  Saracenic,  Ionic,  and  Doric 
architecture.  Grovemment  has  since 
greatly  improved  the  palace,  and  the 
whole  building  is  now  in  the  Moorish 
style,  presenting  a  most  imposing  ap- 
pearance. The  entrance,  by  the  Wal- 
lajah  Road,  i3  through  an  ornamental 
gateway  with  representations  in  porce- 
Eiin  01  the  various  incarnations  of 
Vishnu,  executed  by  the  Madras  School 
of  Arts.  The  building  is  now  occupied 
by  the  Board  of  Bevenue  Offices,  At- 
tached to  it  on  the  S.  is  the  Civil 
Engineering  College,  and  to  the  S.  of 
this  is  the  Presidency  College,  a  fine 
large  building  in  the  Italian  style. 
W.  of  this  agam  is  the  Gosha,  or  Caste, 
Hospital  hidden  amongst  trees,  and 
beyond  it  is  the  fine  ground  and 
pavilion  of  the  Madras  Cricket  Club. 
N.  of  the  old  palace  is  the  Senate  Houses 
designed,  like  many  other  buildings  in 
Madras,  by  Mr.  Chisholm.  It  was  begun 
in  1874  and  completed  in  1879  at  a  cost 
of  289,000  rs.  Close  to  the  S.  entrance, 
facing  Chepauk  palace,  will  be  seen  the 
JubiUe  statue  of  the  Queen  Empress,  a 
replica  of  the  Boehm  statue  at  Windsor, 
presented  to  the  city  by  Rajah  Gaja- 
patee  Row  of  Vizagapatam.  1  m.  S.  W. 
of  the  Senate  House  is  Triplicane,  a 
crowded  district  containing  the  palace 
where  the  Prince  of  Arcot  resides,  and 
a  famous  Mohammedan  mosque  and 
Hindu  temple. 

The  Promenade  by  the  Sea-shore. — 
The  Marina,  the  fashionable  drive  and 
promenade  at  Madras,  is  by  the  sea- 
shore, from  the  southern  extremity  of 
the  Fort  southward  over  the  Napier 
Bridge,  and  past  the  Senate  House,  the 
Revenue  Board  Office,  the  Civil  Engin- 
eering College,  the  D.  P.  W.  offices,  the 
Presidency  College,  as  far  as  the  Capper 
House  Hotel.  Thence  Cathedral  Koad 
runs  nearly  due  W.  about  2  m.  to  St. 
George's  Cathedral,  the  Mount  Road, 
and  the  suburb  of  Adyar.  A  great  part 
of  these  roads  is  overhung  by  mighty 
banian  trees,  forming  a  tunnel  through 
which  one  drives  in  agreeable  coolness 
even  when  the  sun  is  hot. 

The  Mount  Bead  extends  from 
Government  House  to  the  Mount,  7 
m.  The  best  European  shops  lie 
between  Government  House  and  the 


Club.     The  principal  Hotels  are  also 
in  this  neighbourhood. 

General  Neil's  Statne  opposite  the 
entrance  to  the  Club.  At  the  base  u 
a  fine  alto-relievo  of  a  battle,  with 
Highlanders  and  guns,  and  at  the  back 
is,  **  Erected  by  public  subscriptioD, 
1860."  On  the  other  two  sides  are  ths 
names  of  the  non-commissioned  officers 
and  men  who  fell  in  the  actions  m 
which  Neil  was  engaged.  There  is 
also  an  inscription  recording  his  deati 
at  Lucknow. 

Chtjbches. 

The  Cathedral  (St.  George's)  stands 
1.  in  an  enclosure,  a  little  beyond  Neil's 
statue  along  the  Mount  Eoad.  The 
exterior  is  not  handsome,  but  thfl 
dazzling  white  chunam  and  the  very 
numerous  and  remarkably  handsome 
tablets  and  tombs,  and  the  lofty 
and  massive  pillars  in  the  inteiiw, 
produce  a  very  pleasing  impressioa. 
At  the  E.  end  of  ttie  N.  aisle  is  a  fine 
monument  to  the  Right  Eev.  Daniel 
Corrie,  LL.D.,  first  Bishop  of  Madras. 
The  monument  to  Bishop  Reginald 
Heber,  who  died  in  1826,  is  on  the  N. 
wall  of  the  N.  aisle,  and  represenU 
him  confirming  two  natives.  Notice 
too  the  monument  to  Major  George 
Broadfoot,  C.B.,  who  was  one  of  tha 
illustrious  garrison  of  Jellalabad. 

St.  Mary's  Church,  in  the  Fort, 
built  1678-1680,  was  the  first  EngM 
church  built  in  India :  it  stands  5. 
and  S.  Sir  Thos.  Munro,  Lord  Hoban; 
and  other  distinguished  persons  an 
buried  here.  There  is  some  interestiof 
sacramental  plate  dated  1698.  Th* 
most  remarkable  monument  is  one  i 
white  marble  reared  by  the  E.I.  Co.  t» 
the  famous  missionary  Schwartz.  Hi 
is  represented  dying  on  his  bed  s8^ 
rounded  by  a  group  of  friends,  with  r 
angel  appearing  in  the  clouds  ai 
holding  up  a  cross  to  his  view. 

On  the  N".  side  of  the  square,  in  til 
Fort,  is  a  stcUue  of  Lord  ComwaA 
under  a  stone  canopy,  on  the  pedesi 
of  which  is  sculptured  the  surrender 
Tipu's  two  sons  in  1792.  This  stat 
is  by  Chantrey,  and  was  erected  in  Ifll 
at  the  joint  expense  of  the  prine^ 
inhabitants  of  Madras. 

St.  Andrew^,  the  Scotch  Churdi, 

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THE  ABMENUN  OHUROH 


341 


m  the  Punamali  Road,  opposite  the 
5.1.  Railway  Station,  Egmore,  built 
1818-20,  cost  £20,000,  the  architect 
wing  Major  de  Havilland.  The 
tfadras  stucco,  or  chunam,  in  the 
nterior  gives  to  the  pillars  all  the 
?hiteness  and  polish  of  the  finest 
aarble.  The  steeple  rises  to  the  height 
►f  166  ft.,  and  the  building  is  remark - 
iblo  for  the  complete  substitution  of 
aasonry  for  timber,  which  might  be 
lestroyed  by  white  ants. 

At  St.  Thom^,  rather  more  than  2 
D.  due  S.  of  the  Fort,  there  is  a  small 
»nt  pretty  church  situated  on  the  top 
f  a  sand  dune  within  a  few  yards  of 
he  sea. 

St.  Thom^,  Roman  Catholic  Cathe- 
Iral,  a  short  distance  N.,  is  an  old 
tnicture,  and  has  the  reputation  of 
>eing  buUt  over  the  earthly  remains  of 
>t  Thomas.     On  the  S.  side,  beneath 

large  trap-door,  his  tomb  is  pointed 
•ut  (see  p.  342). 

The  Armenian  Church  in  Black 
'own,  a  quaint  old  building  well  worth 
.  visit,  bears  on  its  street  portal  the 
late  1712. 

St.  Matthias'  Church,  Vepery,  is 
emarkable  as  having  been  given  by 
idmiral  Boscawen  as  a  recompense  for 
he  one  near  the  beach  which  was 
estroyed  during  the  war  between  the 
French  and  English.  It  belongs  to  the 
/hnrch  of  England. 

In  Black  Town,  EyruimUl  Churchy  the 
Church  Mission  Chapelj  and  the  Wes- 
zyan  Chapel.  The  Roman  Catholic 
'athedral  is  in  Armenian  Street  in 
Mack  Town. 

The  Woman's  Medical  Mission  and 
Ichools  and  second  Tamil  church  of 
he  Free  Church  of  Scotland  are  in 
he  Royapooran  suburb  N. 


The  Onn-carriage  Factory. — This 
I  one  of  the  oldest  institutions  in 
ladras.  It  was  originally  established 
1  1802,  at  Seringapatam,  but  as  the 
apply  of  timber  from  the  teak  forests 
f  Mysore  and  Coorg  failed,  it  was  re- 
loved  to  Madras  in  1830. 

Tl^e  Mut^ema  is  situated  about  2  m. 


to  the  W.  of  the  Fort,  on  the  Pantheon 
Road.  The  collection  was  ori^ally 
formed  in  1846,  and  arranged  in  the 
College  Hall  by  Dr.  Balfour.  In  1857 
it  was  removed  to  the  present  building, 
then  known  as  the  Pantheon.  During 
the  forty  years  that  have  passed  since 
then  the  work  of  collection  has  been 
going  on  steadily,  until  now  it  contains 
a  unique  assortment  of  interesting 
specimens,  which  have  made  the  name  of 
the  Madras  Museum  &mous  amongst 
modern  scientists.  The  Museum  is 
open  daily  to  visitors  from  6.80  a.m. 
to  5  P.M.,  Sundays  excepted.  The 
afternoon  of  the  first  Saturday  in  the 
month  is  reserved  for  the  reception  of 
native  ladies.  The  total  number  of 
visitors  to  the  Museum  amounts  to 
nearly  400, 000  annually.  The  Victoria 
Teclmical  Institute,  New  Theatre, 
and  Connemara  Library  within  the 
compound  of  the  Museum  is  a  large 
block  of  buildings  designed  by  Hy. 
Irwin,  CLE. 

The  very  extensive  library  of  the 
Literary  Society,  a  branch  of  the 
Royal  Asiatic  Society,  is  at  the  Con- 
nemara Library.  The  Mackenzie  MSS. , 
in  upwards  of  60  gigantic  volumes,  may 
be  noticed,  containing  a  mass  of 
historical  and  legendary  lore  respecting 
the  S.  of  India.  There  is  also  a 
portrait  of  the  well-known  French 
missionary,  the  Abb^  Dubois,  dressed 
as  a  native  of  India.  He  spent  25 
years  in  Mysore. 

The  Botanical  Gardens,  near  the 
Cathedral,  comi)rise  an  area  of  about  22 
acres,  and  are  laid  out  in  a  highly  orna- 
mental manner.  Many  rare  trees, 
shrubs,  and  plants  are  to  be  seen  there  ; 
one  of  the  great  attractions  being  the 
splendid  Victoria  Regia,  in  a  couple  of 
small  ponds.  The  Society  possesses  a 
valuable  Library  containing  many  rare 
works.  The  Gardens  were  brought 
into  existence  mainly  through  the 
efforts  of  Dr.  Wright  about  the  year 
1836. 

The  Observatory  is  about  1  m.  W. 
of  the  Museum,  and  has  been  in  charge 
of  very  eminent  men.     It  ori^ated 

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348 


MADRAS  0IT7 


IniM 


in  a  sniall  private  observatory  started 
in  1787  by  Mr.  W.  Petrie,  a  scientific 
member  of  Ooancil.  The  building  was 
erected  in  1793  by  Michael  Tapping, 
under  orders  from  the  directors  or  the 
E.I.C.,  and  stands  in  N.  lat.  13'*4'r, 
E.  long.  80"*  17' 22*. 

The  boildii^  known  as  the  Old  Col- 
lege, not  far  &om  the  Observatory,  is 
now  used  as  the  office  of  the  Director 
of  Public  Instruction. 

The  Central  Railway  Station  is  one 
of  the  finest  in  India. 


SlTBUBBS. 

On  the  way  to  Ouindy,  the  Race- 
course, and  the  other  southern  suburbs 
is  Marmalong  Bridge  (said  to  be 
Mamillamma,  **  Our  Lady  of  the  Man- 
goes") spanning  the  Adyar  river.  It 
has  29  arches.  Near  the  N.  end  is  an 
inscription  in  English,  Latin,  and 
Persian,  which  says  that  the  expenses 
of  the  bridge  were  defrayed  from  a 
legacy  left  for  the  purpose  by  Adrian 
Fourbeck,  a  merchant  of  Madras. 

The  Little  Mount. — This  curious  spot 
is  about  5  m.  S.W.  of  the  Fort  It  is 
on  a  rocky  eminence  on  1.  after  crossing 
Marmalong  Bridge.  A  flight  of  steps 
leads  to  the  Church.  On  the  I.  is  a 
litter  in  which  they  carry  the  effigy  of 
the  Virgin.  On  the  left  of  the  entrance 
is  a  portrait  of  St.  Thomas,  with  an 
old  Portuguese  inscription.  Descend- 
ing some  steps  on  the  left,  a  slope  leads 
down  to  a  cavern  hewn  out  of  the  solid 
rock.  It  is  necessary  to  stoop  very  low 
to  enter  the  cave,  and  there  is  nothing 
to  see  but  a  narrow  aperture  which  lets 
in  the  daylight ;  and  through  this 
fissure  they  tell  you  St.  Thomas  escapd 
the  Indians  who  wished  to  slay  him. 
In  the  vestry-room  is  a  Missal  with 
the  date  1793.  They  show  a  dark  cell 
full  of  bats,  said  to  be  the  oldest  part 
of  the  church,  where  St  Thomas 
himself  worshipped.  To  the  W.  is  a 
hole  in  the  rock  in  which  is  a  little 
water,  said  to  have  been  miraculously 
produced  by  him.  This  is  called  the 
Fountain.      Outside  are  some   rocks 


said  to  be  marked  with  the  feet,  knees, 
and  hands  of  St.  Thomas.    The  general 
belief  is  that  St  Thomas  was  martyred ' 
at   Mylapore,    which    H.  H.    Wilson 
( TraTtsaetioTis  of  Boy.  As.  Soe.  voL  i  ^ 
161)  identifies   with  Mihilaropye,  or 
Mibilapur,    now    St    Thom^.      The 
martyrdom  is  said  to  have  taken  placeon 
the  21st  of  December  68 1.D.;  andHeber 
says  {Journal,  vol.  iil  p.  212,  4th  ed.): 
<  *  I  see  no  good  reason  lor  doubting  that 
it  is  really  the  place."    In  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  Chron.  (p.  857,  Bohn*8  ed.)  itis 
said:  **This  year  (883),  Sighehn  and 
Athelstan  carried  to  Rome  the  alms 
which    Alfr^    had    vowed    to  send 
thither,    and   also   to    India   to  St 
Thomas    and    to    St.    Bartholomew." 
Gibbon  refers  to  it,  ch.  48.      Bishop 
Dorotheus,  bom  254  A.D.,  in  a  fragment 
in  the  Paschal  Chron.  says  that  the 
Apostle  Thomas  suffered  martyrdom  at 
Calamina,  a  town  of  India  (see  Care's 
Historia  Literaria,  p.  107).    At  the 
Council  of  Nice,  325  A.D.,  John,  Bishop 
of  India,  was  present.      St  Jerome, 
890  A.D.,  mentions  Calamina  as  the 
town  in  India  where  St  Thomas  died. 
In  Col.  Yule's  Marco  PolOy  vol  il  I 
pp.  290,  293,  294,  will  be  found  refer 
ences  to  other  ancient  notices  of  St  | 
Thomas's  visit  to  India,  and  an  illus- 
tration of  the  cross  mentioned  above,  j 
Abdias,  who  lived  at  the  end  of  the 
1st    century,   and    whose   work  was  i 
published  by  Lazius  at  Basle  in  1552,  I 
says  he  remembered  a  book  in  which  i 
the  voyage  of  St.  Thomas  to  India  was  | 
describe<L 

The  College  of  Agriculture,  the  SaidA- 1 
pet  Model  Farm,  the  Teachers'  CoUegt^  i 
and  the  Oovemment  Veterinary  HospiA 
taZ  will  be  observed  on  the  Madrs 
side  of  the  river,  east  of  the  Mouii 
Road.     The  Model  Farm  is  not  nol 
fully  cultivated.     Its  situation  tomej 
out  to  be  ill  chosen  on  sandy  unprc 
ductive  soil,  and  it  is  now  simply  use 
for    practical   demonstrations  to  th 
students  of  the  College  of  Agriculture 

1  The  Rev.  C.  Egbert 
Coll.,  Calcutta,  has  brooghl 
notices  of  St.  Thomas's  vwll  „  —   __. 
pamphlet,  printed  at  the  S.P.O.K.  rrm 
Vepeiy.    See  also  Pr.  Hilne  Bae's  Tlu  Spm 
Ohmnk, 


>rt  Kennet,  of  Kibor 
brought  togea»a.* 
8*8  ^t  to  India  mi 


d  by  Google 


THE  GOVERNOR  S  COUNTRY  HOUSE 


343 


The  Governor's  Country  House  at 
Guindy,  about  5  m.  from  Goveminent 
House.  The  house  standing  in  a  large 
park,  with  many  deer,  has  a  very  hand- 
some appearance,  being  faced  with  the 
beautiful  white  chunam  for  which 
Madras  is  so  famous.  The  centre  room, 
which  is  used  as  a  ball-room,  contains 
a  good  bust  of  Wellington.  The 
flower-garden  lies  to  the  S.,  and  is  8^ 
acres  in  extent,  and  there  are  detached 
bungalows  for  the  staff  in  the  park. 

The  Bace-course,  close  to  Government 
House,  Guindy,  is  1^  m.  long.  To  the 
N.  you  see  the  Great  Mount  and  Pala- 
veram,  a  double  hill  about  500  ft.  high, 
with  a  long,  low  range  extending  from 
it.  The  races  take  place  in  the  cold 
weather.  In  the  course  is  an  obelisk 
to  Major  Donald  Mackey,  who  died  in 
1783. 

St  Thomas's  Mount,  or  Great  Mount 

(rly.  sta.  1  m.  distant),  is  7  m.  from 
the  Fort,  and  about  3  m.  from  Marma- 
long  Bridge  to  the  S.W.  At  the  base 
of  9ie  Mount  are  the  Cantonment  and 
the  building  which  used  to  be  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Madras  Artillery  :  the 
mess-rooms  are  said  to  be  the  finest  in 
India.  There  are  good  reading-rooms 
and  a  valuable  library.  In  the  dining- 
room  are  some  interesting  portraits. 

The  English  Church  is  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  the  mess -house.  It  is  a 
handsome  building,  with  a  well-pro- 
portioned steeple.  The  register  of  the 
church  goes  back  to  1804.  There 
are  monuments  here  to  several  dis- 
tinguished officers. 

The  Mount  is  a  knoll  of  greenstone 
and  syenite  about  300  ft.  high,  topped 
by  an  old  Armenian  Church.  The 
ascent  is  by  a  succession  of  terraces 
and  steps.  Over  an  archway  is  the 
date  1726,  and  within  are  several 
slabs  with  epitaphs.  After  ascending 
121  steps  observe  the  remains  of  a 
fortification,  with  embrasures  for  guns, 
and  three  cannon  used  for  signals. 
The  church  is  called  **The  Expecta- 
tion of  the  Blessed  Virgin,"  and  was 
built  by  the  Portuguese  in  1547.     To 


the  N.W.  are  the  Hills  of  Palaveram, 
and  between  them  and  the  Mount  are 
the  barracks,  with  a  fine  parade  ground. 
At  this  Church,  behind  the  altar  and 
above  it,  is  a  remarkable  cross  with  a 
Nestorian  inscription  in  Sassanian  Pah- 
lavi  of  about  800  A.D.  The  inscription 
begins  a  little  to  right  of  the  top  of  the 
arch.  Dr.  Burnell  translates  it :  "  Ever 
pure  ...  is  in  favour  with  Him  who 
bore  the  cross." 

Sport.  The  immediate  neighbour- 
hood of  Madras  offers  very  few  oppor- 
tunities for  sporting  expeditions,  al- 
though there  are  parts  of  the  Presidency, 
such  as  the  Western  Ghats  and  the 
Northern  Circars,  where  as  cood  big 
and  small  game  shooting  can  be  got  as 
anywhere  else  in  India.  Within  one 
day's  journey  of  Madras  big  game  is 
not  at  all  obtainable,  but  very  good 
snipe-shooting  can  be  had  in  tne  cold 
weather  along  the  line  of  railway  to 
the  south,  notably  at  Guduvancherri, 
a  small  village  about  22  miles  from 
Madras,  where  bags  of  60  couple  have 
been  shot  within  a  few  hours.  The 
services  of  a  local  shikari  should,  if 
possible,  be  secured.  On  the  Nuggery 
Hills,  about  60  miles  to  the  N.W.  of 
Madras,  it  is  still  possible  to  obtain 
some  deer-stalking. 


At  26  m.  W.  of  Madras,  Trivalur 
sta.,  there  are  large  temples ;  and  4  m. 
from  the  station  is  the  sit©  of  the  old 
fort  of  Tripasore,  which  was  captured 
by  Sir  Eyre  Coote  in  1781.  Tnpasore 
fort  was  at  one  time  the  station  for 
the  East  India  Co.*s  cadets,  and  after- 
wards for  pensioners. 

The  following  is  from  Fergusson's 
History  of  Indian  Architecture :— "  The 
temple  of  Trivalur  contrasts  curiously 
with  that  at  Tanjore  in  the  principles 
on  which  it  was  designed,  and  serves 
to  exemplify  the  mode  in  which,  un- 
fortunately, most  Dravidian  temples 
were  aggregated. 

"The  nucleus  here  was  a  small 
village  temple.  It  is  a  double  shrine, 
dedicated  to  Shiva  and  Jiia  consort, 

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344 


MADRAS  CITY 


India 


standing  in  a  cloistered  court  which 
measures   192   ft.  x  156   ft.   over   all, 


=•' 


[ 


Plan  of  Inner  Temple  of  Trivalur. 

and  has  one  gopura  in  front.     So  far, 
there  is  nothing  to  distinguish  it  from 


Additions  were  again  made  at  some 
subsequent  date,  the  whole  being 
enclosed  in  a  court  940  ft.  x  701  ft— 
this  time  with  five  gopuras,  and  several 
imiwrtant  shrines.  When  the  last 
addition  was  made,  it  was  intended  to 
endow  the  temple  with  one  of  those 
great  halls  which  were  considered 
indispensable  in  temples  of  the  first 
class.  Generally  they  had,  or  were 
intended  to  have,  1000  columns ;  this 
one  has  only  688,  and  only  about  one 
half  of  these  carry  beams  of  any  sort 
There  can,  however,  be  very  little  doubt 
that,  had  time  and  money  been  avail- 
able, it  would  have  been  completed  to 


Bird's-eye  View,  Temple  of  Trivalur. 


the  ordinary  temples  found  in  every 
village.  It,  however,  at  some  subse- 
quent period  became  sacred  or  rich, 
and  a  second  or  outer  court  was  added, 
measuring  470  ft.  each  way,  with  two 
gopuras,  nigher  than  the  original  one, 
and  containing  within  its  walls  num- 
berless   little    shrines    and    porches. 


the  typical  extent.  As  it  is,  it  is  prob- 
ably owing  to  our  management  of  the 
revenues  of  the  country  that  the 
requisite  funds  were  not  forthcoming, 
and  the  buildings  stopped  probabu 
within  the  limits  of  the  present  cen- 
tury. 
"  The  general  effect  of  such  a  dea^n 

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ROUTE  25.       HYDERABAD 


345 


as  this  may  be  gathered  from  the  bird's- 
eye  view  (woodcut,  preceding  page).  As 
an  artistic  design,  nothing  can  be  worse. 
The  gateways  irregularly  spaced  in  a 
great  blank  wall  lose  half  their  dignity 
from  their  positions ;  and  the  bathos 
of  their  decreasing  in  size  and  elabora- 
tion as  they  approach  the  sanctuary 
is  a  mistake  which  nothing  can  redeem, 
We  may  admire  beauty  of  detail,  and 
be  astonished  at  the  elaboration  and 
eTidence  of  labour,  if  they  are  found 
in  such  a  temple  as  this,  but  as  an 
architectural  design  it  is  altogether 
detestable." 


ROUTE  25 

Wadi  Junction  to  Hydekabad, 
Seoundbrabad,  {Goleonda.Bidar) 
Waranoal,  Bezwada,  Vizaga- 
patam,  Vizianaoram,  Puri  and 
Outtaok. 

H.H.  the  Nizam's  State  Rly. 

876  m.  from  Bombay,  Wadi  June.  sta. 
(R.)  (see  p.  333). 

9  m.  Chittapnr  sta.  extensive  silk 
manufactures.  About  1  m.  to  the 
S.  is  Nagai,  a  deserted  town  with 
ruined  temples  dating  from  1050  a.  d. 
In  one  of  them  is  a  life  size  bull  cut 
out  of  a  solid  block  of  basalt. 

24  m.  Seram  sta.  A  richly  carved 
temple,  of  1200  a.d. 

44  m.  Tandur  sta.  (R.).  Small  and 
large  game. 

88  m.  Shankarpalli  sta.  From  here 
is  a  fair  weather  road  to  Bidar,  10  m. 
(see  p.  351). 

100  m.  Lingampalli  sta.  Soon  after 
this  the  line  is  very  picturesque,  dotted 
with  numerous  granite  peaks  and 
isolated  rocks.  This  stone  belt  extends 
to  Bhunigaon,  28  m.  E.  of  Hyderabad. 

115  m.  Hyderabad  sta.  3^    i§  m. 

from  the  nearest  city  gate.  Tlie  capital 
of  H.H.  the  Nizam's  territory.  The 
city  (pop.,  with  suburbs,  392,700) 
stands  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Musi 
river,  with  Oolkonda  to  W.,  and  the 
cantonments  of  the  British  troops,  the 
contingent,  and  the  Residency  and  its 
bazaars  to  the  N. 

The  state  of  which  Hyderabad  is  the 
capital  covers  98,000  6<j.  m.,  with  a 


pop.  of  10,458,930,  and  is  by  far  the 
largest  native  state  in  India.  The  city 
is  famed  for  its  warlike,  and  variea, 
population.  Formerly  all  the  inhabit- 
ants always  carried  weapons,  but  owing 
to  the  peace  and  prosperity  which  have 
come  with  British  influence,  the  habit 
is  not  now  universal.  It  is  still  the 
custom,  among  the  upper  classes,  to 
carry  an  ornamented  aagger  in  the 
girdle,  or  a  sword  suspended  from  a 
gold  lace  belt,  when  paying  visits.  In 
this  custom  servants  imitate  their 
masters,  and  most  of  the  shopkeepers 
in  the  bazaars  continue  it. 

There  is  a  very  beautiful  Public  Plea- 
sure-ground N.  of  the  station.  In  this 
garden  are  two  pavilions,  and  at  one 
end  a  menagerie.  There  is  also  a  piece 
of  water  in  the  grounds.  The  small 
branch  line  which  connects  the  railway 
station  and  the  workshops  is  not  used 
for  passenger  traffic.  Dominating  the 
N.  part  of  the  garden  is  a  black  rock 
called  Nauhat  Pahary  "the  Guard 
Rock,"  which  is  very  picturesque. 
Fateh  MaidaUj  a  plain  that  lies  be- 
tween the  black  rock  and  Chadar 
Ghat,  is  the  Nizam's  polo -ground. 
Near  the  public  gardens  is  the  Saifa- 
bad  Cantonment  of  the  Nizam's  regular 
troops.  It  is  very  neatly  laid  out. 
There  is  an  old  mosque  here  built  by 
Khairatbai  The  powder-magazine  is 
believed  to  be  her  tomb. 

The  Residency  stands  about  1  m. 
N.W.  of  the  city  in  a  suburb  called 
Chadar  Ghat,  and  is  surrounded  by  a 
bazaar  containing  12,000  inhabitants. 
The  grounds  are  extensive,  and  full  of 
grand  old  trees,  and  are  enclosed  by  a 
wall,  which  was  strengthened  by  Colonel 
Davidson  after  the  attack  upon  the 
Residency  on  the  morning  of  17th  July 
1857.  That  attack  was  made  by  a 
band  of  Rohillas  and  others,  and  was 
repulsed  by  the  troops  at  the  Residency 
under  Major  Briggs,  Military  Secretary. 
Bastions  were  then  erected  conmianding 
the  approaches,  but  the  place  was  not 
attacked  again. 

On  the  site  of  the  Residency  there 
was  formerly  a  villa  belonging  to  a 
favourite  of  Nizam  'Ali,  and  in  it  Sir 
John  Kennaway,  who  was  appointed 
Resident  in  1788,  w^  reoeived.    fk^ 

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346 


ROUTE  25.      WADI  JUNCTION  TO  BEZWADA 


India 


present  Residency  was  built  1803-8. 
The  N.  front,  at  which  is  the  Grand 
Entrance,  looks  away  from  the  Musi 
river  and  the  city.  In  the  stately  hall 
is  a  picture  of  General  Cubbon  at  one 
end  and  a  portrait  of  the  Rajah  of  Mysore 
at  the  other.  Between  them  is  a  picture 
of  Chandu  Lai  in  a  white  turban  and 
robe.  The  chandeliers  cost  a  prodigious 
sum,  and  the  lighting  of  the  Kesidency 
in  former  times  for  a  single  reception- 
night  entailed  an  expense  of  £1000. 
On  such  occasions  the  crowd  was  so 
great  and  the  number  of  those  who 
tried  to  force  an  entrance  so  excessive 
that  swords  were  often  drawn.  While 
the  male  visitors  were  received  by  the 
Resident,  their  wives  were  entertained 
in  a  mansion  attached  to  the  Resi- 
dency, called  the  Rang  Mahal  which 
no  longer  exists.  To  the  "W.  of  the 
Residency  is  a  private  mansion  for  the 
Resident,  where  he  can  withdraw  into 
complete  privacy.  Among  the  trees  the 
visitor  will  remark  four  enormous  speci- 
mens of  the  Fiats  mdica,  the  trunk  of 
one  measuring  80  ft  round.  There  is 
also  a  very  gigantic  tamarind  tree.  The 
Park  contams  an  obelisk  raised  by  the 
officers  of  the  Russell  Brigade  to  the 
memory  of  Lieut.  William  John  Darby, 
who  was  killed  in  1815  within  the  city 
of  Hyderabad,  while  gallantly  leading 
the  grenadiers  in  a  charge  agamst  some 
rebels. 

The  City  is  in  shape  a  trapezoid. 
The  total  area  is  2  m.  :  it  is  modem 
and  has  no  very  remarkable  buildings, 
but  the  bazaars  are  extremely  pictur- 
esque and  thronged  with  natives  from 
all  parts  of  India.  On  the  N.W. 
side  are  five  Chiteways,  viz.  on  the  ex- 
treme E.  the  Chadar  Ghat  Gate  ;  next 
on  the  W.'the  Delhi  or  Afzal  Gung  Gate ; 
next  in  the  same  direction  are  the 
Champa,  the  Char  Mahal,  and  the 
Old  Bridge  Gates  in  succession.  In 
the  S.  W.  side  there  is  first,  the  Dudhni 
Gato,  then  the  Fateh,  which  is  exactly 
in  the  centre,  and  then  the  'Aliabad  in 
the  S.W.  comer.  In  the  S.  side  are 
the  Gaulipur  and  the  Ghaziband,  and 
on  the  E.  side  are  the  Mir  Jumlah,  the 
Y'akubnur,  and  the  Daudpur  Gates. 

The  Musi  river  on  the  N.W.  side 
is  crossed  ty  three  Bridges,     Farthest 


to  the  E.  is  the  Oliphant  Bridge, 
which  was  erected  in  1831  by  Colonel 
Oliphant,  of  the  Madras  Engineers, 
afterwards  a  director  of  the  KLC. 
The  next  bridge  to  the  W.  is  the  Afral 
Gung  Bridge,  and  then  oomes  tiie  Old 
Bri(^.  Crossing  the  river  by  the  Afral 
Gung  Bridge,  the  traveller  passesnear  the 
Residency  School  and  the  City  Hospital. 
ThQ  Afzal  OungMuajid  (Mosque),  which 
adjoins  the  hospital  to  the  K.,  is  a 
noble  building  with  four  lofty  minarets. 
On  the  other  side  of  the  road  is  i 
hospital  for  women,  which  for  some 
time  waspresided  over  by  an  American 
lady.  This  establishment  can  be  in- 
spected by  ladies  only. 

Crossing  the  bridge  and  passing 
through  the  Afzal  Gung  Gate,  the 
traveUer  finds  himself  in  a  broad  street, 
which  runs  from  it  completely  tfcrou^ 
the  city.  A  few  hundred  yaras  farther 
is  the  Fala^  of  the  late  Sir  ScUar  Jang 
Bahadur f  G.C.S.I.,  whose  able  ad- 
ministration of  the  state  is  a  matter 
of  history.  Sir  Salar's  palace  is  called 
the  Barahdari,  a  common  name  for 

Salaces  orpavilions,  literally  "twelve 
oors."  The  great  drawing-room  con- 
tains a  number  of  portraite  of  former 
Residente  and  other  distinguished  per- 
sonages. It  looks  upon  a  small  piece 
of  water  with  founteins.  The  ganiens 
are  tastefully  laid  out  The  Sili  Khana 
contains  curious  specimens  of  old 
weapons  and  coats  of  mail.  Close  te  it 
is  the  Chini  Ehana,  about  14  ft  square 
and  12  ft.  high,  covered  with  china 
cemented  to  tne  walls,  some  of  which 
is  said  to  be  valuable.  Proceeding 
along  the  central  street,  at  about  | 
m.  from  the  Afzal  Bridge  is  a  rectan- 
gular building  with  four  minarets,  hence 
called  the  Char  Minor,  186  ft  hi^h 
and  100  ft.  wide  on  each  side,  built  in 
1691,  formerly  a  college,  occupying  the 
most  central  position  in  the  city  where 
the  four  main  roads  meet  Just  before 
reaching  it,  one  passes  under  an  arch 
which  is  called  the  Machhi  Kaman,  or 
"Arch  of  the  Fish,"  the  fish  being  a 
badge  of  M^h  rank.  There  are  four 
arches  50  ft.  high  across  the  streete,  one 
to  each  quarter  of  the  compass.  Here, 
too,  is  a  small  garden  callea  the  Gulsar, 
or  Charsu.     A  little  to  the  E.  of  the 

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ROUTE  25.       HYDERABAD 


347 


Char  Minar  is  the  Mecca  Musjid,  the 
principal  mosque  in  the  city,  and  so 
called  from  its  resemblance  to  the 
mosqne  at  Mecca.  It  is  a  grand  but 
sombre  building,  with  four  minars  and 
six  arches  in  front,  occupying  one  side 
of  a  paved  quadrangle  360  n.  square. 
During  the  Mohammedan  festivals  as 
many  as  8000  or  10,000  people  assemble 
here  for  prayer.  In  the  centre  are  two 
I>oli8hed  stone  slabs,  said  to  be  taken 
from  a  Hindu  temple. 

The  Nizam'B  Palace  is  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  Char  Minar :  the  Chauk, 
or  principal  street,  gives  access  to  the 
Nizam* 8  Palace,  where  a  gateway  leads 
to  a  quadrangle  about  the  size  of  that  of 
Christ  Church,  Oxford.  At  the  S.W. 
comer  of  this  there  is  a  lane  which  leads 
into  a  second  quadrangle,  in  which  are 
generally  about  2000  servants,  horse- 
men, etc.  ;  a  passage  from  the  S.W. 
comer  of  this  leads  into  a  third  quad- 
rangle about  the  size  of  Lincoln's  Inn 
Fields,  where  1000  or  2000  attendants 
are  generally  to  be  found.  The  build- 
ings on  each  side  are  handsome,  and 
resemble  the  Shah's  palace  at  Teheran, 
but  are  finer.  Persons  invited  here  dis- 
mount from  their  elephants,  and  are 
received  by  the  Chamberlain,  who  wears 
a  white  robe.  They  are  conducted 
into  a  haudsome  pavilion,  filled  with 
courtiers,  handsomely  furnished,  and 
with  fiveimmense  chandeliers.  It  is  said 
that  the  palace  contains  7000  persons. 

During  the  Muharram,  H.H.  s  troops 
to  the  number  of  80,000  pass  in  proces- 
sion in  front  of  the  palace,  and  the  spec- 
tacle is  altogether  a  very  magnificent 
one.  The  procession  takes  place  on  the 
5th  of  Muharram :  it  is  called  the 
Langar,  and  is  said  to  be  in  honour  of 
Kutb-u-din  Kuli  Shah,  the  sovereign, 
who  built  the  Char  Minar  and  the 
Mecca  Musjid.  Various  stories  are 
told  about  this  procession.  It  is  said 
that  Langar  (a  chain)  means  the  chain 
with  which  an  elephant  is  confined, 
and  that  Eutb-u-din  Euli  Shah  was 
run  away  with  by  his  elephant,  which 
suddenly  became  furious  and  rushed 
about  for  three  days,  keeping  the  king 
without  food  and  in  peril  of  his  life. 
On  the  third  day  it  became  tractable, 
and  the  Lomga/r  was  fastened  on  it.    In 


a  side  street  200  yds.  beyond  the  palace 
is  the  house  in  which  the  well-known 
minister  Chandu  Lai  died.  It  is  a  low 
but  highly-ornamented  Hindu  house. 

Beyond  the  Chauk,  where  all  the 
mercers  live,  and  near  the  "W.  wall  of 
the  city,  is  the  vast  palace  of  the  Barak- 
dari,  which  was  built  by  the  Shamsu-'l- 
umara.  It  covers  a  laree  space,  is 
handsomely  furnished,  ana  contains  a 
gigantic  suit  of  armour  and  many 
mechanical  curiosities,  also  a  number 
of  ostriches,  which  are  ridden  by  men. 
The  birds  travel  with  great  speed,  but 
are  very  difficult  to  manage.  From  the 
top  of  this  palace  there  is  a  fine  view 
over  the  city.  To  the  W.  Golkonda 
Fort  is  seen,  and  the  mausoleums  of  the 
kings  close  by  it.  A  silver  streak  be- 
tween marks  the  position  of  the  Mir 
'Alam  tank.  One  can  see  also  the  Pul- 
i'Purana,  or  Old  Bridge.  To  the  S. 
the  Jehan  Nwnva  Palace  is  visible,  and 
a  mosque  built  by  the  Amir  Eabir. 

The  Jehan  Numa,  also  built  by  the 
Shamsu-'l-umara,  in  a  suburb  of  the 
same  name  outside  the  'Aliabad  Gate, 
is  reached  by  a  causeway  built  across 
rice -fields.  Adjoining  it  is  a  very 
long  bazaar,  consisting  of  neatly-built 
houses,  forming  two  long  but  narrow 
ellipses.  These  houses  seem  to  be  ren  ted 
at  particular  times  to  the  attendants  of 
great  personages  coming  to  visit  the 
city.  Beyond  is  a  court  where  there 
are  hundreds  of  soldiers,  horse  and  foot. 
At  the  end  of  this  is  a  carpeted  staircase 
which  leads  into  a  reception-room.  The 
palace  is  full  of  curiosities  of  all  kinds. 

A  morning  may  be  passed  in  visiting 
the  Mir  *Alami  Tank,  which  is  2  m. 
from  the  S.  wall  of  the  city.  The 
lake  is  7  m.  round.  The  embankment 
is  formed  of  twenty-one  granite  arches 
laid  on  their  sides,  presenting  their 
convex  surfaces  to  the  pressure  of  the 
water.  It  is  1120  yds.  long,  and  was 
built  by  French  engineers  at  a  cost  of 
£80,000.  There  are  several  steamers 
on  the  lake  ;  one  for  hire. 

At  800  yds.  from  the  bank  is  a 
bungalow,  where  you  can  take  refresh- 
ments, if  you  bring  any  with  you.  At 
the  extreme  W.  end  of  the  lake,  which 
has  picturesque  coves  and  windings,  is 
a   wooded   hill  abput   80    ft.   high, 

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sunnonnted  by  a  building  which  is 
the  Dargah,  or  shrine,  of  Makbub  Alt. 
In  order  to  see  the  dargah  you  have  to 
disembark  and  walk  about  a  J  m.  away 
from  the  lake,  and  then  ascend  a 
number  of  steps.  The  dargah  is  a  beau- 
tiful structure  and  well  placed,  looking 
down  on  the  waters  of  the  lake  that 
ripple  at  the  foot  of  the  cliff  on  which 
it  stands.  It  is  small  but  symmetrical, 
and  was  once  covered  with  blue  tiles. 

The  Race -course  MvZkapet  is  a  fine 
piece  of  level  ground  E.  of  the  city. 
The  race-meeting  is  held  in  November, 
and  lasts  for  five  days.  H.H.  the 
Nizam  gives  invaluable  assistance  and 
dispenses  princely  hospitality. 

121  m.  Secunderabad  sta.  if.  5i  m. 
N.  of  the  Hyderabad  Residency,  is  the 
British  military  cantonment ;  and  one 
of  the  largest  in  India,  covering  19  sq. 
m.  The  Hyderabad  Subsidiary  Force 
is  maintained  by  the  British  Govern- 
ment from  the  revenues  of  the  Districts 
ceded  by  the  treaty  of  1853.  It  is 
1830  ft.  above  sea -level.  The  road 
from  Hyderabad  to  Secunderabad, 
flanked  on  the  W.  by  the  Husmin 
Saugar  Tanh^  is  lined  by  handsome 
villas,  many  of  them  built  by  wealthy 
natives  and  officials  of  the  Nizam's 
Court.  This  is  the  fashionable  drive, 
and  many  magnificent  equipages  may 
be  seen  here.  In  a  villa  called  Pestanji 
Kothii  originally  built  by  a  Parsi  who 
farmed  the  revenues,  is  a  picture  of 
General  Palmer,  who  married  a  Begam 
of  Oudh.  St,  George's  Churchy  which 
most  of  the  English  inhabitants  of 
Chadar  Ghat  attend,  is  200  yds.  N.  of 
Pestanji  Eothi.  In  the  churchyard  are 
a  numoer  of  tombs.  Among  them  is 
that  of  the  famous  William  Palmer, 
who  was  called  "King  Palmer,"  and 
was  the  head  of  the  great  house  who 
banked  for  the  Nizam.  He  was  the 
son  of  General  Palmer  and  the  Begam. 
His  tablet  is  eulogistic  of  his  third 
wife,  on  whose  fortune  he  was  supported 
after  the  failure  of  the  house. 

The  Parade-ground  at  Secunderabad 
is  of  immense  extent,  and  admits  of  a 
large  brigade  manoeuvring  upon  it. 
On  the  N.  side  are  many  officers' 
houses,  the  railway  station,  which  is 
handsomely  built  of  granite,  and  the 


church,  which  is  large  enough  to  hold 
a  European  regiment.  On  the  S.  side 
of  the  Parade-ground  is  the  cemetery, 
in  which  a  vast  number  of  officers  are 
btiried.  The  Assembly  Booms  and 
theatre  are  conveniently  situated  on 
the  Parade-ground.  Near  the  former 
is  the  Mitd  Fort,  in  which  some  artil- 
lery are  quartered. 

At  Trixnalgiri,  3  m.  N.E.  of  Secun- 
derabad, is  an  entrenched  camp.  It  is 
so  placed  that  the  Europeans  in  Bolaram 
and  Secunderabad  could  at  once  retire 
into  it.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  ditch  7 
ft.  deep,  and  a  rampart  rising  from  the 
inner  side  of  the  ditch  to  the  height  of 
7  ft.,  with  a  stone  revetment.  There 
are  several  bastions  on  which  guns  are 
mounted,  and  also  a  bomb-proof.  The 
camp  is  well  supplied  with  water  from 
wells,  and  has  a  commissariat  store 
and  bakery.  The  Military  Prison  here 
is  popularly  called  Windsor  Gistle, 
from  its  high  tower  and  castellated 
look.  This  prison  stands  due  W.  of 
the  S.W.  bastion  of  the  entrenchment. 
The  Hospital  for  the  European  in- 
fantry, a  handsome  white  building, 
is  due  S.  of  the  S.E.  bastion. 

Bolaram  is  the  military  cantonment 
of  the  Hyderabad  Contingent  Force. 
It  is  situated  6  m.  N.  of  Secunderabad, 
and  11m.  from  the  city  of  Hyderabad, 
and  is  1890  ft.  above  sea-level. 

[EXOUKSIONS  FROM  HYDERABAD. 

( 1 )  The  Tomb  of  M.  Raymond,  at  Samv 
Nagar. — This  will  require  a  whole  morn- 
ing or  evening.  The  traveller  will  drive 
or  ride  across  the  Oliphant  Bridge,  and 
proceed  3^  m.  to  the  S.E.  of  the  city  and 
into  the  suburb  of  Saruv  Nagar,  He 
will  thus  have  arrived  in  the  hunting- 
grounds  of  H.H.  the  Nizam.  The 
country  here  is  accidents,  rough  ground 
with  woods  enclosed  in  stone  walls, 
about  7  ft.  high.  Innumerable  herds 
of  black  buck  and  spotted  deer  wander 
over  this  track  undisturbed,  for  no  one 
may  fire  at  them  without  permission, 
and  all  they  have  to  dread  is  an  occasional 
chase  from  the  hunting  leopard,  and 
now  and  then  a  few  shots  from  some 
distinguished  sportsman.  There  is  a 
carriage -road  passing  through  these 
grounds.    The  traveler  will  soon  per- 

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ROUTE  26.      GOLKONDA 


349 


ceive  Saymmtds  Tomh,  which  stands 
on  very  high  ground.  At  the  foot  of 
this  eminence  is  a  rest  >  house  for 
Indians,  open  in  front.  On  the  high 
ground  above  this,  on  a  spacious 
chabutarahf  or  terrace,  is  an  obelisk  of 
gray  stone,  25  ft.  high,  with  simply  the 
letters  J.  R.  on  each  side.  Farther 
S.,  at  the  end  of  the  chubutarah,  is  an 
edifice  like  a  Grecian  temple,  where 
travellers  may  repose  and  enjoy  the 
air,  which  is  here  comparatively  cool, 
even  in  August.  No  date  is  recorded  ; 
but  the  gallant  Frenchman  in  whose 
honour  this  fine  structure  has  been 
erected  died  in  March  1798.  General 
Raymond  served  for  several  years  under 
Hyder  'Ali.  At  the  time  of  his  death 
he  had  15,000  weU- disciplined  troops 
at  his  command,  and  possessed  more 
power  than  the  British  Resident.  Each 
anniversary  of  Raymond's  death  is 
celebrated  at  the  tomb  by  a  grand 
uniSf  which  is  attended  by  some 
thousands  of  irregular  troops  from 
the  city.  The  tomb  and  platform  are 
illuminated,  salutes  are  fired,  and 
stories  are  told  of  the  greatness  and 
kindness  of  Mtcsa  Rahim  (son  of  Moses), 
as  he  is  called. 

It  is  here  that  the  hunting  with 
leopards  takes  place.  The  leopards  are 
generally  taken  in  pairs,  and  are  hooded, 
until  a  black  buck  passes  near  enough 
to  be  chased.  The  run  is  generally  wr 
about  400  yds.,  when  the  leopard  over- 
takes its  victim,  strikes  it  to  the  ground, 
and  sucks  blood  from  its  neck. 

Hyderabad  maintains  a  considerable 
manufacture  of  textile  fabrics,  carpets, 
velvets  for  horse -trappings,  and  a 
material  composed  of  cotton  and  silk, — 
for  Mohammedans  must  not  wear  pure 
silk.  Red  earthenware  is  also  exten- 
si-^ely  made  here. 

(2)  GOLKONDA,  7  m.  from  the  Char 
Minar,  was  the  capital  of  the  Kutb 
Shahi  kingdom,  1512-1687,  overthrown 
Dv  Aurangzib.  Few  persons  succeed  in 
ootaining  a  pass  to  visit  the  Fort  with- 
out the  aid  of  the  Residency  officials. 
The  passes,  when  granted,  are  issued 
by  the  Commandant  of  the  Fort,  who 
lives  usually  in  Hyderabad.  There  is 
no  use  in  going  without  a  pass  to  see 
the  Fort,  but  the  tombs  of  the  kings 


may  be  visited.  The  place  is  surrounded 
by  a  strongly-built  crenellated  stone^ 
waU  or  curtain,  a  little  over  3  m.  in 
circumference,  with  87  bastions  of  solid 
granite  blocks  at  the  angles,  on  which 
there  are  still  some  of  the  old  Kutb 
Shahi  guns,  some  with  their  breeches 
blown  out,  others  with  iron  rods  thrust 
into  them  by  the  Emperor  Aurangzib's 
orders  in  1687  to  render  them  useless. 
The  moat  which  surrounds  the  outer 
wall  is  choked  up  with  rubbish  in  many 
places.  The  Fort,  now  used  as  the 
Nizam's  treasury  and  a  state  prison, 
originally  had  eight  gates,  but  of  these 
four  only  are  now  in  use,  namely,  the 
Banjara,  Fateh,  Mecca,  and  Jamali. 
When  the  first  of  the  Nizams  took 
possession  of  the  place,  he  added  a  new 
wall  to  the  fortifications  on  the  E.,  so 
as  to  include  a  small  hiU  formerly  situ- 
ated outside  the  Fort  walls,  fi*om  which 
it  would  have  been  difficult  to  dislodge 
an  enemy  that  had  occupied  the  posi- 
tion. Tiie  large  sheet  of  water  in  front 
of  this  portion  of  the  Fort  is  styled  the 
Nizam  Saugar  Tank, 

The  Banjara  Gate,  which  now  forms 
one  of  the  chief  entrances  to  the  Fort, 
is  a  massive  structure  of  granite,  with 
chambers  on  either  side  for  the  guard, 
and  a  pair  of  high  teak -wood  gates 
studded!^  with  iron  wrought  into 
various  fanciful  devices  and  huge 
sharp -pointed  iron  spikes,  which  were 
intended  to  prevent  elephants  from 
battering  them  in.  The  road  from 
here  passes  straight  through  the  Fort 
to  the  gate  on  the  W.  side.  The  north- 
em  portion  of  the  ground  enclosed 
by  the  wall  has  very  few  ruins  upon 
it,  although  it  was  at  one  time  most 
thickly  populated  ;  indeed,  the  ground 
inside  the  walls  is  said  to  have  been 
so  valuable  that  it  used  to  sell  for  one 
ashrafi  (20  rs.)  per  yard.  The  eastern 
and  southern  portions  are  strewn  with 
the  ruins  of  palaces,  mosques,  and  the 
dwelling-houses  of  the  nobles  and  re- 
tainers of  the  Kutb  Shahi  kings.  A 
short  distance  from  the  gate  just  men- 
tioned is  a  hu^e  stone  cistern.  Beyond 
the  cavalry  lines  are  the  Ndu  Mahal 
(nine  palaces)  of  the  Nizams.  They 
are  surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and 
stand  in  the  midsti^f  a  pleasant  garden 

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ROUTE  25.       WADI  JUNOnON  TO  BBZWADA 


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of  orange  and  other  fruit  trees.  The 
court  used  frequently  to  be  held  here. 

Beyond  the  Nau  Mahal  the  ruins 
thicken.  It  is,  however,  impossible  to 
identify  most  of  them.  There  is  a 
lofty  granite  structure,  said  to  have 
been  used  as  a  Nakar  Khcma  (music- 
room),  or  Mad/rissa  (college),  which 
forms  the  entrance  to  the  fii^  line  of 
the  Bala  Sisar,  or  citadel  fortifica- 
tion. A  little  to  the  right  of  this  is 
the  Jumma  Musjid,  a  small  building. 
An  Arabic  inscription  over  the  gateway 
states  that  it  was  erected  in  1569  A.D. 

The  Bala  Hisar  is  on  the  summit 
of  the  hill,  enclosed  by  the  Fort  walls. 
Its  height  above  the  plain  may  be 
roughly  estimated  at  400  ft.  Passing 
throu^n  a  garden,  the  Bala  Hisar 
Gate  IS  rea(med.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  in  the  Fort,  and  has  been  put 
in  good  repair.  Adjoining  the  gate- 
way on  the  right  side  are  the  ruins 
of  the  quarters  of  the  garrison  main- 
tained nere  in  the  time  of  the  Kutb 
Shahi  monarchs.  Opposite  the  quarters 
of  the  garrison  is  a  vast  upper-storied 
building  of  granite,  caUed  the  Sili 
Khana,  or  armoury,  where  spare  arms 
and  ammunition  were  kept.  From 
here  the  ascent  to  the  summit  is 
accomplished  by  a  series  of  roughly- 
jwived  steps.  Half-way  up  is  a  large 
well,  from  which  the  gamson  used  to 
get  its  water-supply. 

A  short  distance  from  here  are  the 
ruins  of  the  Ambar  Khana,  or  kind's 
treasure-house.  A  block  of  granite 
which  has  fallen  from  its  position  over 
the  entrance  contains  a  Persian  in- 
scription to  the  effect  that  it  was 
erected  in  the  reign  of  Abdullah  Kutb 
Shah,  1642  A.D.  Here  the  last  line  of 
wall  which  encircles  the  citadel  is 
readied.  In  its  construction  advantage 
has,  jbeen  taken  of  the  huge  boulders, 
which  have  in  some  instances  been  made 
the  bases  of  the  wall.  The  masonry 
must  be  several  hundred  years  old. 

On  the  summit  of  the  hill  formerly 
stood  the  Ki/ng's  Palace,  the  ruins  of 
which  still  form  a  conspicuous  object. 
The  front  appears  to  have  beeii  oc- 
cupied by  a  large  courtyard,  sur- 
rounded by  buUdings,  very  few  of 
which,  however,  now  remain.     On  the 


W.  side  are  the  ruins  of  the  palace, 
the  walls  of  which  are  of  a  great  thick- 
ness. The  building  appears  to  have 
been  supported  on  loffy  arches,  most 
of  which  are  still  standing.  In  one 
comer  there  is  a  large  circular  opening, 
said  to  be  the  entrance  of  a  subterranean 
passage  extending  to  the  Gosha  Mahal, 
3  m.  mstant.  Most  probably,  however, 
the  passage,  if  there  is  one,  extends 
only  as  far  as  the  lower  fortifications. 
A  stone  staircase  in  the  W.  side  of  the 
building  leads  to  the  roof,  which  is  ^t» 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  small  stone 
tahhti  or  throne. 

The  mew  from  here,  embracing  as  it 
does  many  miles  of  country,  is  at  aU 
times  charming,  and  well  worth  the 
rather  fatiguing  climb  from  below. 
To  the  E.  lies  the  present  capital, 
Hyderabad,  surrounded  with  ^u:aens, 
from  amidst  which  domes  and  spires 
shoot  up  towards  the  sW ;  in  the  fore- 
ground is  the  beautiful  Mir ' Alam  Tank ; 
far  away  to  the  N.  is  the  cantonment 
of  Secunderabad  and  the  Koh  Sheriff 
(Maul  Ali  hill).  Below  lie  the  ruins 
of  the  once  famous  Kutb  Shahi  capital, 
intersected  with  the  massive-looking 
fortifications  which  gave  Aurangzib 
much  more  trouble  than  he  anticipated, 
and  which,  but  for  treachery  within, 
would  probably  have  resisted  all  his 
efforts.  In  the  Lower  Fort,  on  the  N. 
side,  there  is  a  deer  preserve  belonging 
to  H.H.  the  Nizam,  who  sometimes 
comes  to  shoot  here.  In  the  plain 
outside  the  walls  of  the  Fort  are  the 
remains  of  two  stone  platforms  with 
seats,  from  which  the  kings  used  to 
review  their  troops.  1  m.  to  the  N.  W. , 
built  upon  two  eminences,  are  the 
Barahdari  and  Mu^id  of  Bagmati 
(after  whom  Hyderabad  was  first 
called  Bhagnagar),  a  favourite  mis- 
tress of  the  Kutb  Shah  king,  Muham- 
mad Kuli.  Beyond  the  Banjara  Gate 
are  the  massive  tombs  of  aU  the 
Golkonda  kin^.  On  aU  sides  rise 
masses  of  granite  and  low  hills,  taking 
the  most  fantastic  shapes,  and  some- 
times appearing  like  subsidiary  forts 
erected  oy  the  hand  of  man.  The 
popular  legend  as  regards  the  peculi- 
arity of  their  position  and  appearance 
is  that  the  Creator  after  finishing  tiie 


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ftOtlTE  25.       QOLKOatA 


351 


oonstraotion  of  the  world  threw  away 
the  surplus  material  here. 

The  Kings'  Tomb8.-~On  the  plain 
to  the  N.  and  K,  about  600  yds.  from 
the  fortress,  stand  the  tombs  of  the 
Eutb  Shahi  kings,  who  reigned  here 
for  upwards  of  170  years.  Most  of 
them  nave  suffered  firom  decay  and  the 
hands  of  visitors,  who  have  not 
scrupled  to  plunder  the  enamelled  tiles 
and  other  architectural  adornments 
which  once  contributed  to  place  them 
among  the  best  and  most  remarkable 
Mohammedan  mausolea  in  the  Deccan. 

During  the  Ions  siege  of  Golkonda 
in  1687  the  tombs  and  the  gardens 
which  surrounded  them  were  converted 
into  barracks  and  camping-grounds  by 
Aurangzib's  soldiers.  It  is  said  that 
pieces  of  artillery  were  also  mounted 
upon  them  wherewith  to  bombard  the 
Fort  The  last  of  the  Kutb  Shahi 
kings,  Abu-'l-Hassan,  had  partly  finished 
the  erection  of  his  own  sepulclire,  when 
he  was  sent  off  by  his  imperial  captor 
to  end  his  days  in  the  fortress  of 
Daulatabad.  He  died  there  in  1701, 
and  is  the  only  one  of  the  Kutb  Shahis 
not  interred  here.  His  unfinished 
tomb  is  the  farthest  from  the  Fort,  and 
is  completely  in  ruins.  After  the 
departure  of  the  captive  king  and  his 
conqueror,  the  tombs,  neglected  and 
deserted,  soon  began  to  show  signs  of 
decay.  In  this  condition  they  re- 
mained till  the  late  Sir  Salar  Jang 
had  those  that  were  not  too  much 
ruined  carefully  repaired,  and  re- 
planted the  gardens  which  had  formerly 
existed  around  some  of  them.  The 
late  minister  also  enclosed  seven  tombs, 
which  are  aU  built  within  a  short  dis- 
tance of  each  other,  with  a  substantial 
stone  wall,  and  planted  the  gardens, 
through  which  pleasantly  hiid-out 
walks  lead  to  each  tomb,  with  fine 
shade  and  fruit  trees.  The  tombs 
standing  within  this  enclosure  are 
those  of  Jamshid  Euli,  the  second 
king,  who  died  in  1550 ;  Haiyat  Baksh 
Begam,  the  daughter  of  Ibrahim  Kuli 
Eutb  Shah,  and  the  wife  of  Sultan 
Muhammad,  the  fifth  king,  and  the 
mother  of  Sultan  Abdulla  Kutb  Shah, 
the  sixth  and  last  but  one  of  the  Eutb 
Shahi  line  (the  date  of  her  death,  as  in- 


scribed on  the  tomb,  is  1027  ▲.H.  =  1617 
A.D.),  etc.  Outside  the  walled  en- 
closure and  garden,  to  the  N.,  is  the 
tomb  of  Muhammad  Euli  Eutb  Shah, 
who  died  in  1035  A.H.  =  1625  A.D.  This 
king  founded  the  city  of  Hyderabad, 
and  erected  many  public  emfioes  and 
palaces.  This  is  the  finest  of  the 
tombs,  and  is  168  ft.  high  from  the 
basement  to  the  summit  of  the  dome, 
the  latter  being  60  ft  high.  Beyond 
this  is  the  tomb  of  Ibrahim  Euli  Eutb 
Shah,  the  fourth  king,  who  died  in 
988  A.H.  =1680  A.D.  To  the  S.  of  it  is 
the  tomb  of  Sultan  Muhammad  Amin, 
king  Ibrahim's  youngest  son,  who  died 
in  1004  A.  H.  =  1595  A.D.  A  short  dis- 
tance from  here  in  a  N.  direction  is  the 
tomb  of  Eulsum  Begam,  and  close  to 
it  is  that  of  the  first  of  the  Eutb 
Shahi  kings.  Sultan  Euli  Eutb,  who 
died  in  950  A.H.  =  1643  A.D.  Between 
the  waUed  enclosure  already  alluded  to 
and  the  Fort  walls  is  the  tomb  of  the 
sixth  king,  Abdulla  Eutb  Shah,  who 
died  in  1083  a.h.  =  1672  A.D.,  after  a 
reign  of  forty-eight  years.  This  is  one 
of  the  finest  tombs  here,  being  enriched 
with  very  fine  carvings  and  minarets 
at  each  comer  of  the  matform. 

The  dianumds  of  Golkonda,  which 
have  become  proverbial,  were  cut  and 
polished  here,  but  came  principally 
from  Purtialt  on  the  S.£.  frontier  of 
the  Nizam's  territory,  and  Eollur  in  the 
Eistna  district. 

(3)  78  m.  by  road  N.W.  of  Hydera- 
bad is  the  renowned  city  of  Bidar. 
The  majority  of  the  palaces,  mosques, 
and  other  buildings  with  which  the 
Bahmani  kings  (who  were  overthrown 
by  the  Eutb  Shahi  dynasty  in  1512) 
adorned  their  capital  are  now  in  ruins, 
but  there  is  enough  remaining  to  give 
an  idea  of  the  former  magnificence  of 
the  place.  The  Madrissa,  or  college, 
and  the  Mosque  are  amongst  the  most 
remarkable.  The  walls  are  fine  and 
are  well  preserved.  Bidar  is  famous 
for  ornamental  metal,  called  Bidri- 
work.  The  metal  is  composed  of  an 
alloy  of  copper,  lead,  tin,  and  zinc. 
It  is  worked  into  fancy  articles  orna- 
mented with  silver  and  gold.] 

Leaving  Secunderabad,  the  Nizam's 
State  Rly.  continues  £.  to 


d  by  Google 


352 


BOUTS  25a.     bezwaba  to  vizagafatah 


India 


208  m.  Warangal  sta.,  whence  a 
line  N.  up  tlie  Godavari  valley  to 
join  the  G.I. P.  Rly.  at  Warora  is 
in  progress.  Warangal  (pop.  3400) 
was  the  ancient  capital  of  the  Hindu 
kingdom  of  Telingana,  and  the  scene 
of  many  struggles  between  the  Hindu 
and  Mohammedan  powers  previous 
to  its  absorption  into  the  Golkonda 
kingdom  in  the  16th  century.  The 
antiquarian  will  find  here  interesting 
remains  of  Chalukyan  architecture, 
especially  4  so-called  Kirti  StambhaSj 
or  archways,  facing  one  another,  as  if 
forming  the  entrance  to  some  enclosure, 
but  their  purpose  is  not  known.  There 
are  many  small  shrines  here  and  also 
at  Hamrnonccmdah  (6  m.  N.),  the  old 
capital,  which  possesses  the  remains  of 
a  fine  metropolitan  temple  dated  1163.^ 
Warangal  has  long  been  celebrated  for 
its  carpets  and  rugs.  The  *  *  shatrangis  " 
are  woven  from  cotton  twist. 

261  m.  Domakal  June.  sta.  [Branch 
to  Yellanda  14  m.  where  are  coal  mines, 
on  which  8000  coolies  are  at  work  ;  and 
rich  beds  of  iron  ore.] 

318  m.  British  Frontier  sta.  (R.) 

328  m.  Kondapatti  sta.  Ruins  of  a 
once  celebrated  fortress,  built  in  a.d. 
1360.  It  was  taken  by  Aurungzeb  in 
1687  and  by  the  British,  under  General 
Caillaud,  in  1766. 

338  m.  Bezwada  or  Kistna  sta.  (R.), 
D.B.,  see  p.  358.  [Branch  to  Guntakal 
June.  p.  334.]  This  is  the  terminus  of 
the  Nizam's  State  Railway.  The  travel- 
ler proceeds  by  the  East  Coast  Rly.  to 

375  m.  Ellore  sta.  (R.)  Formerly 
capital  of  the  Northern  Circars,  it  is 
now  famous  only  for  its  carpets.  The 
Godavery  and  Kistna  Canal  systenis 
join  here. 

429  ra.  Godavery.  From  here  there 
is  a  steam  ferry  across  the  Godavery  to 
Rajahmundrv,  but  a  big  railway  bridge 
(56  spans  of  150  feet)  is  about  to  be 
erected. 

431  m.  Rajahmundry.  (R)  (pop. 
20, 000).  It  is  the  old  seat  of  the  Orissa 
Kings  in  the  S.  and  of  the  Venzi  Kings. 
It  contains  a   large  jail,    a   museum, 

fublic  gardens,  and  a  provincial  College, 
t  is  regarded  by  the  Telugus  as  their 
chief  town.    The  Gorge,  20  to  30  miles 
1  FergussoD,  p.  389. 


up,  where  the  Godavery  issues  from 
the  hills ,  is  well  worth  a  visit  as  it 
forms  one  of  the  most  beautiful  pieces 
of  scenery  in  Southern  India — a  succes- 
sion of  Highland  lochs  in  an  Eastern 
setting.  A  few  miles  down  the  river 
from  Rajahmundry  are  the  head-works 
of  the  magnificent  Godavery  Delta 
Irrigation  system  first  designed  by  Sir 
Arthur  Cotton, — the  anicut,  or  dam, 
is  a  huge  piece  of  masonry  4  miles  in 
length  from  bank  to  bank. 

461  m.  Samalkot  sta.  junc.  for 
Cocaizada  Town  8  m.  and  Cocanada 
Port  10  m.,  connected  with  the  Godavery 
R.  by  navigable  canals.  Cocanada  is 
the  principal  port,  after  Madras,  on 
the  Coromandel  Coast  and  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Godavery  District 
Ships  lie  in  safety  in  the  Roads 
(Coringa  Bay)  which,  though  shallow, 
are  protected  to  the  south  by  a  sandy 
promontory  at  the  mouths  of  the 
Godavery.  The  jetties  and  wharves 
and  business  houses  are  on  the  banks 
of  a  canal  leading  into  the  Roads,  and 
connected  with  the  Delta  canal  system. 

495  m.  Tuni  sta.  (R.) 

554  m.  Waltair  junc.  sta.  [Short 
branch  for 

Vizagapatams^  2m.  Yizagapatam, 
the  chief  town  of  the  District  of  that 
name,  is  a  growing  seaport,  situated 
on  a  small  estuary  of  which  the  pro- 
montory at  the  S.  extremity  is  called 
the  Dolphin's  Nose.  The  estuary  forms 
the  only  naturally  protected  harbour 
on  the  Coromandel  Coast,  but  the  bar 
is  too  shallow  to  admit  vessels  of  deep 
draught  and  consequently  they  have  to 
anchor  outside.  Most  of  the  European 
residents  live  in  the  suburb  of  Waltair 
to  the  N.  of  the  town,  which  stands  on 
elevated  ground  composed  of  red  later- 
ite  rocks.  Vizagapatam  and  Waltair 
are  extremely  beautiful  viewed  from 
the  sea.  The  manufacture  of  panjam 
cloth  is  a  speciality  of  the  District,  as 
that  of  ornamental  articles  of  ivory, 
buffalo-horn,  and  silver  filigree  work  is 
of  the  town. 

18  m.  N.  E.  of  Vizagapatam  is 
Bimlapatam  (pop.  10,000)  a  thriving 
port  where  coasting  steamers  touch-] 

592  m.  Vizianagram  (R.)  the  duef 
town  of  one  of  the   most    extensive 

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ROOte  26.      OAOAO  itJTSCmOTS)  TO  bE2WA]>A 


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Zemindari  estates  in  India.  The  Town 
consists  of  the  Cantonment  on  rising 
ground  and  the  Fort  (1  mile  distant) 
almost  entirely  occupieid  by  the  Palace 
Buildings,  etc.,  of  the  Maharaja. 
Halfway  between  the  Fort  and  Canton- 
ment is  a  large  tank  possessing  a  con- 
stant supply  of  water.  The  Market 
was  built  to  commemorate  the  visit  of 
H.E.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

636  m.  Chicacole  Road  sta.  for 
Chicacole,  a  large  town  which  contains 
a  noble  mosaue  built  in  1641  by  Sheer 
Mahomed  Khan,  the  first  Mussalman 
Faujdan.  In  1791  Chicacole  was  nearly 
depopulated  by  famine,  and  it  again 
suffered  severely  in  1866.  In  1876  a 
flood  swept  away  six  arches  of  the 
Langulya  Bridge.  It  was  formerly 
celebrated  on  account  of  its  very  fine 
muslins. 

727  m.  Berhampur  sta.  (R.)  chief 
town  of  the  Ganjam  District  (pop. 
30^000).  It  is  noted  for  its  tussur  silk 
cloths  and  gold-embroidered  turbans. 

740  m.  Chatrapur  sta.,  beautifully 
situated  on  high  ground  above  the  sea, 
headquarters  of  the  District  Magistrate 
and  UoUector.  A  canal  runs  parellel 
with  the  sea-shore  to  Qopalpur,  the 
chief  seaport  of  the  Ganjam  District. 

750  m.  Huimna  sta.  for  Qanjam, 
which  is  situated  on  the  Rushkuliya. 
Ganjam  was  formerly  chief  port  and 
town  of  the  District,  but  in  the  early 
part  of  the  century  it  was  ravaged  by 
an  epidemic  of  fever  and  abandoned  in 
consequence.  There  are  many  ruins  of 
handsome  buildinprs  that  once  adorned 
it.  The  Fort,  which  was  commenced 
in  1768  by  Mr.  Cotsford,  the  first 
Resident  in  Ganjam,  still  forms  an 
interesting  ruin,  and  recals  memories 
of  former  Residents  and  Chiefs  in 
CouBcilj  who  were  engaged  here  partly 
in  political,  and  partly  in  commercial, 
enterprises  for  the  East  India  Company. 
The  adjoining  cemetery  contains  some 
interesting  old  monuments. 

766  m.  Bambha  sta.  for  the  southern 
end  of  the  Chilka  Lake,  which  extends 
northwards  for  40  miles  into  the  Bengal 
province  of  Orissa,  the  frontier  village 
beinj?  Bnrcool.  The  Lake  averages  10 
miles  in  width,  and  is  separated  by  a 
aarrow  stretch  of  sand  from  the  sea. 
[Jrwim] 


Its  scenery  is  of  surpassing  beauty,  in 
the  background  being  the  jungle-clad 
hills  of  the  Eastern  Ghats.  It  is 
dotted  with  islands  on  which,  as  on 
the  mainland,  game  of  all  kinds  abound, 
while  in  the  cold  season  its  surface  is 
crowded  with  wild -fowl  of  many 
varieties.  The  Lake  is  shallow,  seldom 
exceeding  6  feet  in  depth.  The  water 
is  brackish,  and  there  is  a  very  slight 
tide  at  the  southern  end,  the  sea 
running  into  it  at  Manickpatnam. 
The  trade  is  carried  on  in  flat-bottomed 
boats  of  peculiar  structure  with  lateen 
sails  of  bamboo-matting.  At  Rambha 
there  is  a  large  house  on  the  margin  of 
the  lake  built  by  Mr.  Snodgrass  in  1792 : 
it  is  believed,  from  Famine  funds.  It  is 
now  the  property  of  Mr.  Minchin,  pro- 
prietor of  a  distillery  and  sugar  factory 
at  Aska  in  the  interior  of  the  District. 

770  m.  Burcool.  The  frontier  sta. 
between  the  Madras  and  Bengal  Presi- 
dencies. 

818  m.  Ehnrda  Road  June.  sta.  for 
Purl,  or  Jagannatli  (branch  line  47  m.). 
Puri  is  one  of  the  chief,  if  not  the  chief, 
place  of  Hindu  pilgrimage  in  India. 
(Seep.  277.) 

830  m.  Bbuyaneahwar  sta. ,  see  p.  283. 

840  m.  Barang  sta.,  see  Outtaok 
sta.,  p.  288.  The  rly.  crosses  the  Ma- 
hanaoi  River  to  Cuttack.  The  rly.  line 
is  now  completed  from  here  to  Caicuttay 
236  m.,  but  there  was  not  time  to  de- 
scribe it  before  going  to  press  with  this 
edition.  

EOUTE  26 
Gadag  Junction   to  Vijayanagab 

{BlJANAGAR)f  BeLLARY,  GuNTAKAL 

Junction,  and  Bezwada. 

This  route  is  the  E.  portion  of  the 
railway  that  crosses  the  peninsula  of 
India  from  Marmagoa  on  the  W.  coast 
to  Bezwada,  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Kistna  River,  on  the  E.  The  W.  por- 
tion is  described  in  Rte.  22. 

Gadag  junct.  sta.  (R.),  D.B.  [Branch 
via  Bijapur  to  Ilotgi  junct.  on  the 
G.LP.  Rly.] 

58. m.  Hospet  sta.  (R).  D.B. 
From,  this  point  Vijaiianagar  and 
Hampi  (9  m.)  can  most  conveniently 
be  visited,  r^  \ 

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BdtJTB  26.       GADAG  JtJNCTtOJy  TO  BEZWADA 


India 


(Bxcnnion  to  V^ayanaflrur 
(HJanaffar)  and  HampL  « 

Hampi  is  the  site  of  the  ancient 
capital  of  the  Vijayanagar  kings,  ^  who 
dominated  South  India  from  1118  to 
1564  A.D.  The  ruins  cover  6  sq.  m., 
including  KarruUapur  on  the  S.  and 
Aiiagundit  the  latter  seat  of  the  dyn- 
asty  N.  of  the  Tungahhadra  River. 

Kamalapur  D.  B. ,  is  7  m.  N.  £.  fix)m 
Hospct.     An  old  temple  has  been  con- 


whose  descendants  flomished  here  till  the 
battle  of  Talikot,  1564,  andaftoiiwdsst 
Anagnndi,  Vellore,  and  Ohandragiri  for 
another  century,  until  finally  over- 
whelmed by  the  advancing  Mohim- 
medan  powers  of  Bnapur  and  Golkonda. 
During  the  two  and  a  quarter  oentaries 
that  %e  Vijayanagar  BAJas  held  the 
city  of  Hampi  they  extended  it  and 
beautified  it  with  palaces  and  temples. 
The  traveller  Caesar  Frederick,  who 


Kood 


1.  Commencement  of  Bridge, 

2.  Rains  of  old  Bridge. 
8.  Temple  of  Vitoba. 

verted  into  a  D.B.  There  is  a  sc 
road  from  Kamalapur  to  Hampi,  which 
winds  round  the  rocky  hills  between 
which  the  old  city  was  built.  The  site 
is  watei'ed  by  a  cnannel  from  the  river. 

Hampi  was  founded  on  the  fall  of 
the  Baflala  dynasty,  about  1336  a.d., 
by  two  brothers,  Bukka  and  Harihara, 
wio  had  been  driven  out  of  Warangal, 

1  No  one  interested  in  the  History  of  Vijay- 
Anagar  should  foil  to  consult  Mr.  Sewell's  book 
on  ttie  subject,  A  Forgotten  Empire,  1900. 


VlJAYANAGAR,    HaUPI,  AND  AnAOUNOI. 

4.  Temple  of  Veerpaksh. 


5.  Temple  on  high  pile  of  rocks. 

6.  King's  Sleeping  Palace. 


7.  Statne  of  Ganesh. 

8.  Temple  of  Krishna. 


saw  the  city  at  the  zenith  of  its  pros- 
perity, describes  it  as  being  24  m.  round, 
enclosing  several  hills.  The  ordinary 
dwellings  were  mean  buildings  with 
earthen  walls,  but  the  three  palaces  and 
the  pagodas  were  all  built  of  fine  marble. 
The  first  remarkable  building  is  the 
Eing'B  or  Ladies'  Bath,  forming  a  po^ 
tion  of  the  king's  palace.  It  is  a  rect- 
angular building,  about  J  m.  from  the 
D.B.,  with  a  hauz,  or  reservoir,  in  the 

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355 


centre  50  ft.  square  and  6  ft.  deep,  in 
which  fountains  played ;  but  there  is  no 
water  now,  and  this  structure  has  been 
a  good  deal  injured.  At  the  entrance 
are  remains  of  the  granite  aqueduct 
which  was  carried  from  near  the  throne 
to  the  bath.  The  corridor  of  the  bath, 
supported  by  twenty  pillars,  has  an 
arched  ceiling,  richly  carved  with 
flowers.  On  either  side  is  a  projecting 
gallery  ornamented  with  carving.  N.W. 
of  this  is  a  granite  aqueduct.  The 
stones  forming  the  trough  measure 
about  11  ft.  X  6  ft.,  the  supports  are  5 
ft.  8  in.  high.  About  1000  yds.  N.  W. 
of  the  aqueduct  is  a  cluster  of  remains, 
including  the  Elephant  Stahles^  the 
ZefMiTuiy  the  Treasury,  rather  mean 
buildings  of  Tipu  Sultan's  time,  and 
1  structure  which  the  guide  calls  the 
Throne.  It  is  of  granite,  and  consists 
of  a  succession  of  matforms  31  ft.  high, 
the  outer  walls  of  which  are  carved  in 
relief  with  representations  of  elephants, 
iancing-girls,  hunting-scenes  from  the 
Ramayuna,  and  camels,  well  executed. 
A-hout  100  yds.  to  the  N.  is  a  Temple. 
rhe  pillars  are  handsomely  carved  in 
relief  with  figures.  The  quadrangle, 
inside  measurwnent,  is  110  ft.  from  N. 
to  S.,  and  200  ft.  from  E.  to  W.  Tlie 
temple  has  a  vestibule  carried  on 
twelve  pillars.  The  adytum  is  sup- 
ported by  black  pillars  most  elabor- 
itely  carved.  On  the  plinth  of  the 
left  gateway  is  a  very  long  inscription 
in  Old  Eanarese.  Tne  stones  of  which 
this  temple  is  built  average  7  ft.  7  in. 
long  and  2  ft.  6  in.  deep. 

The  second  day  may  be  spent  in  cross- 
ing the  ruins  from  S.  to  N.,  that  is  from 
the  D.  B.  to  Anagundi,  a  distance  of  4  m. 

On  the  right  is  a  hill  crowned  with 
I  large  temple,  to  visit  wliich  is  the 
labour  of  a  day.  Farther  to  the  W.  is 
Hrhat  the  guiae  calls  the  oldest  temple 
in  Vijayanagar.  Little  except  two 
jcpuras  (ornamented  gateways)  is  left. 
Kound  the  door  of  the  first  gopura  is  a 
irery  long  inscription  in  Old  Aanarese. 
[n  the  second  there  isaNagri  inscription 
)n  the  right,  and  a  Kanarese  on  the  left, 
rhe  bases  of  the  pillars  are  carved  to 
■epresent  a  man  riding  on  a  yali,  which 
s  rearing  up.  The  extensive  ruins 
Uround  show  that  the  temple  to  which 


these  gopuras  belonged  was  of  great 
size.  Near  here  on  a  granite  mound 
stand  tliree  Jain  Ba^tis :  observe  their 
turned  pillars  of  polished  black  stone, 
ornamented  with  graceful  beaded  fes-^ 
toons  and  bells,  after  the  style  of  the 
beautiful  bastis  of  Srivanah  Belgula, 
and  Hullabid  (Rte.  27).  Beyond  this, 
in  the  same  direction,  is  what  is  called 
the  Kasbin  Bazaar,  with  a  stone  arcade 
on  either  side.  It  is  122  ft.  broad  from 
E.  to  W.,  and  1127  ft.  long  from  S.  to 
N.,  and  must  have  been  a  most  magni- 
ficent street  or  market-place.  About  J 
m.  from  this  is  a  solidly-built  Temple 
of  Rama,  on  the  bank  of  a  branch  of 
the  Tungabhadra  river,  100  yds.  broad, 
and  very  deep.  In  the  adytum  of  this 
temple  are  grotesque  modem  images  of 
Rama,  Laksnman,  Sita,  and  Hanuman. 
The  road  now  turns  to  the  right  along 
the  river.  A  vast  old  Malh,  or  monas- 
tery, is  now  passed  on  the  right,  which 
was  tenanted  till  about  1840.  About 
100  yds.  beyond  this  are  the  remains  of 
a  stone  briage  *  over  the  Tungabhadra, 
built  without  mortar,  clamp,  or  tenon. 
The  structure  is  a  simple  jam  and  cram 
of  rough  granite  blocks,  notched  at  the 
edges  oy  a  process  of  quarrying  still  in 
practice.  A  line  of  small  hollows  is 
worked  in  a  smooth  surface  of  rock  ;  a 
little  straw  is  burnt  over  the  hollows  ; 
water  is  poured  in,  and  the  rock  splits 
along  the  line  of  hollows  to  the  depth 
of  several  inches.  A  singular  stnic^re 
of  granite  is  worthy  of  notice,  which 
the  guide  says  was  used  for  weighing 
goods,  but  more  probably  to  weigh 
great  personages  against  gold.  It  is 
made  of  three  granite  blocks,  1;wo  up- 
rights and  a  transverse  piece.  The 
uprights  are  20  ft.  10  in.  high,  and  the 
thwart  piece  14  ft.  7  in.  long. 

Some  200  yards  beyond  this  are 
three  granite  temples,  which  are 
called  the  Wali,  the  Sv^rvca,  and  the 
Tara— the  last-named  being  the  wife  of 
Wall.  It  is,  however,  in  reality  very 
doubtful  to  which  deity  the  temples 
were  dedicated.  The  very  numerous 
carvings  of  monkeys  in  one  of  the  three 
especially,  and  more  or  less  in  the 

1  Tliere  are  remarkable  examples  of  these 
bridges  at  Seringapatam,  and  near  the  Falls 
of  the  Canvery. 


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kOtJTK  26.      OAiJAO  JlTiJCTlOl^  to  BezwAda 


tnik 


others,  make  it  probable  that  they 
were  dedicated  to  Wali,  his  brother, 
and  his  wife.  Mr.  Fergusson,  at  p. 
874,  ascribes  to  Vitoha^  a  local  mani- 
festation of  Vishnu,  the  one  which  the 
local  people  refer  to  Wali,  erected  1529- 
1542  A.D.,  but  never  finished.^  The 
shrine  of  this  great  temple  was  never 
filled  ;  it  was  never  used  as  a  place  of 
worship,  nor  was  it  ever  formally  con- 
secrated. The  legend  is  that  in  the 
plenitude  of  their  power  the  Rajas  of 
Vijayanagar  determined  to  brin^  the 
holy  image  of  Krishna  which  is  at 
Pandarpur  to  Vijayanagar,  and  built 
this  temple  to  exceed  in  beauty  every- 
thing before  erected  in  the  Deccan  to 
receive  it ;  but  whether  it  was,  as  the 
Brahmans  inform  visitors,  that  the  god 
would  not  move ;  or  that,  having  come 
to  look  at  the  new  temple,  said  it  was 
too  good  for  him ;  or  because  attention 
was  diverted  by  serious  troubles  with 
the  Mohammedans,  the  removal  was 
never  accomplished.  The  three  temples 
stand  in  an  enclosure  which  has  four 
low  gopuras  ;  they  are  good  examples 
of  the  Dravidian  style.  There  is  a 
stone  rutj  or  car,  close  to  the  temple  on 
the  right,  as  you  enter  the  enclosure, 
and  two  stone  pavilions  for  lodging 
travellers.  The  stone  car  which  stands 
a  few  paces  from  the  temple  just 
described  is  26  ft.  4  in.  high,  sadly 
disfigured  in  1803  by  an  ill-judced 
"restoration"  in  chunam.  The  dia- 
meter of  the  wheels  is  4  ft.  3  in. 
Whether  the  car  was  ever  moved  is 
doubtful.  The  wheels  can  be  moved, 
and  the^ockets  in  which  the  axle  works 
are  worn  and  chafed  as  if  by  movement. 

The  second  temple,  which  is  on  the 
left  of  the  entrance  into  the  enclosure, 
is  much  the  largest,  and  perhaps  the 
finest.  The  ceiling  was  formed  of  slabs 
of  granite  35  ft.  long,  but  all  the  slabs 
have  been  thrown  down  except  one  in 
the  centre.  Two  slabs  stand  against 
the  wall,  2  ft.  6  in.  wide,  and  2  ft. 
thick.  There  are  fourteen  columns, 
which  supported  the  roof.  Most  of 
them  are  carved  into  representations 

1  See  also  the  Indian  Antiquary,  vol.  ii.  p. 
178,  which  gives  an  extract  from  the  Bellary 
District  Manual,  by  J.  Kelsall,  M.C.S.,  which 
says :  "  The  finest  temples  of  all  are  about  1 
ax.  lower  down  the  river." 


of  horsemen  mounted  on  yalis.  One 
represents  the  Narsing  Avatar.  In 
some  cases  the  yalis  are  supported  by 
elephants.  The  pavement  consists  of 
huge  granite  slabs.  One  is  12  fL  7  in. 
long,  and  7  ft.  7  in.  broad,  and  the 
others  are  about  that  size.  Within 
is  a  court  100  ft.  long  from  E.  to  W., 
and  62  ft.  broad  from  N.  to  S.  This 
temple  is  thought  by  some  to  hare 
been  sacred  to  Vishnu,  and  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  Narsing  Avatar  makes 
this  probable.  On  the  S.  aide  are 
numerous  Eanarese  inscriptions.  S.  of 
the  temple  is  a  large  dharmsala  with 
sixty-two  pillars,  on  which  are  curious 
reliefs  of  lemale  monkeys  and  dwarfs, 
so  this  may  be  the  Tara  temple.  On 
the  right  of  the  entrance  is  a  platform 
with  thirty-nine  shorter  pillars.  Th^ 
were  carv^  with  most  curious  represen- 
tations of  monkeys,  their  heads  crowned 
with  two  small  figures  of  gods.  The 
third  temple  is  some  20  yds.  N.  of  the 
rtU.  It  is  probably  sacred  to  Wali  and 
Sugriva. 

From  this  the  traveller  may  go  1|  m. 
to  the  E.  to  the  bank  of  the  TuDga- 
bhadra  opposite  Anagundi.  There  is 
a  large  tree  which  affords  some  shelter 
from  the  sun  while  waiting  for  the 
ferry-boats,  which  are  circulM"  ba^ets 
covered  with  bullock  hides  and  10  ft 
in  diameter,  the  Indian  form  of  coracle. 
They  will  each  take  twenty  persons,  or 
a  palki  with  twelve  bearers.  The  boats 
are  safe  but  inconvenient.  There  are 
some  inches  of  water  at  the  bottom  of 
the  basket,  and  passengers  sit  on  the 
edge  or  rim.  The  bed  of  the  river  and 
its  sides  are  very  rocky.  As  soon  as 
you  land  on  the  N".  side  you  are  in  the 
Nizam's  dominions.  30  yds.  firom  the 
landing-place  is  a  small  temple  to  Gfanesh, 
sheltered  by  a  tree,  and  10  yds.  fartha 
on  is  the  Gate  of  Anagundi^  which  has 
been  a  fort  built  of  granite.  The  paiaa 
of  the  Rajah  of  Anagundi,  who  is  tbo 
Rajah  of  Vijayanagar,  is  one-third  of  I 
mile  from  the  gate. 

Returning  to  the  S.  side  of  the  riva^ 
some  hours  may  be  devoted  to  a  vaS 
to  the  Pagoda  on  the  high  hill  to  ^ 
E.  of  the  Kasbin  Bazaar,  bat  the  tvoM 
are  not  interesting.  The  ascent  I 
excessively    steep,   and   the    Pagodi| 

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ROUTE  26.       TORANAGULLU — BELLART 


357 


which  is  sacred  to  Markand,  is  un- 
important, but  the  view  over  the  ruins 
will  repay  the  visitor  for  his  trouble. 

A  day  must  be  given  to  ihe  W.  and 
N.W.  portion  of  the  ruins  of  Hampi, 
and  here  a  pony  may  be  used.  About 
2  m.  along  the  road  running  W.  is  an 
ancient  temple  of  Shwa^  attested  by  a 
figure  of  Nandi  and  carvings  of  cobras. 
Beyond  this  to  the  W.  is  a  gigantic 
image  of  the  NardTig  Avatar^  carved 
out  of  a  single  block  of  granite.  The 
figure  is  that  of  a  colossal  lion-headed 
man  with  enormous  projecting  circular 
eyes  and  a  huge  mouth.  A  spirited 
carving  of  the  Shesh  Nag  forms  the 
canopy  of  the  idol,  which  is  seated, 
and  has  its  legs  and  arms  broken. 
From  the  top  of  the  Shesh  Nag  to  the 
floor  of  the  pedestal  on  which  the  idol 
sits  is  22  ft.  6  in.  This  idol  is  in  an 
enclosure  of  ponderous  granite  blocks. 
The  monolithic  uprights  at  the  door 
are  18  ft.  8  in.  high  out  of  the  ground. 
Just  outside  the  gate  is  an  upright 
stone  with  a  Eanarese  inscription  on 
both  sides.  A  few  yards  from  this 
enclosure  is  a  small  temple  containing 
a  hage  Ldngam  and  Yoni.  This  is  no 
doubt  the  largest  representative  of 
these  objects  of  worship  existing. 

Near  is  a  vast  temple  to  EriBhna. 
It  is  enclosed  by  a  granite  wall.  The 
breadth  of  the  chief  court  is  200  ft. 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  the  length  320  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  At  the  gopura  which 
forms  the  entrance  is  a  stone  8  ft. 
bigh,  with  a  Eiuiarese  inscription  on 
both  sides.  There  is  also  on  the  columns 
of  the  gopura  an  inscription  in  Nagri 
and  Kanarese.  About  60  yds.  from 
this  temple  off  the  road  is  a  temple 
with  a  huge  Ganesh  10  ft.  high ;  and 
a  few  yds.  farther  another,  vastly 
solid,  built  of  granite,  dedicated  to 
Ganesh,  in  which  the  idol  is  18  ft. 
high.  The  visitor  will  remark  the 
size  of  the  enormous  granite  slabs 
which  form  the  roof.  After  passing 
this  temple,  the  precincts  of  what  is 
now  called  Hampi  are  entered,  and 
monkeys  of  the  Langwr  kind,  but  not 
large,  here  show  themselves  in  con- 
siderable numbers.  The  visitor  should 
WW  descend  for  70  yds.  a  granite 
paven^e^t  put  into  many  small  steps, 


and  pass  on  the  left  a  square  building 
which  may  have  been  a  mcUh.  He 
will  then  come  under  the  shade  of 
some  gigantic  trees  and  arrive  at  the 
portal  of  the  great  temple  of  Hampi, 
which  is  sacred  to  Shiva.  The  gopura 
at  the  N.  entrance  is  truly  gigantic, 
and  taken  in  all  its  dimensions  is 
perhaps  the  largest  in  India.  It  is  im- 
possible to  ascend  beyond  the  eleventh 
story,  but  from  the  basement  of  that 
to  the  ground  the  height  is  133  ft,  5  in., 
and  above  it  there  is  solid  masonry  for 
30  or  40  ft.  After  that  comes  the  Shtkr^ 
which  is  now  broken  but  must  have 
been  about  30  ft.  high,  so  that  when 
it  was  intact  the  total  height  must 
have  been  over  200  ft.  The  gopura 
is  85  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  is  im- 
mensely solid.  The  length  of  the  first 
q'ladrangle  from  E.  to  W.  is  208  ft., 
and  its  breadth  from  N.  to  S.  134  ft. 
The  second  quadranffle  is  larger,  and 
has  arcades  all  round  built  of  granite. 
The  authorities  of  the  temple  will  not 
allow  a  European,  excepting  officials, 
to  go  farther  than  a  few  steps  beyond 
the  second  gopura,  under  which  is  the 
entrance  to  this  second  quadrangle,  nor 
will  they  permit  any  closer  exammation 
of  the  building.  Ketuming  S.E.  2  m. 
the  visitor  will  reach  the  Zeruma,  The 
outer  wall  is  about  20  ft.  high,  and 
built  entirely  of  granite.  The  buildings 
within  have  for  the  most  part  been 
thrown  down.  At  the  comers  of  the  en- 
closure in  which  this  building  is  there 
have  been  towers,  and  two  remain.  At 
one  comer  of  the  enclosure  is  a  building 
which  was  probably  a  pavilion  for  the 
ladies.  It  has  been  covered  with  fine 
white  cement.  Close  by  it  is  a  door, 
beyond  which  are  many  ruins  and  a 
temple  to  Hanuman,  with  ave^spirited 
relief  of  the  Monkey-god.  E.  of  the 
zenana  are  the  Elepharvt  Stables.  S.  of 
the  zenana,  at  the  distance  of  150  yds., 
is  a  monolithic  and  subterraneous 
temple  or  house,  with  three  chambers.] 

94  m.  Bellary  sta.  (R.),  D.B.  A 
municipal  town  and  large  military 
station,  capital  of  district  of  same  name. 
Pop.  63,000.  A  spur  from  the  Sandur 
range  runs  along  the  S.  side  of  the 
cantonment  of  Bellary,  and  extends 


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ROUTE  26.      GADAQ  JUNCTION  TO  BEZWADA 


India 


K  to  Badihal,  8  m.  distant,  where  it 
abruptly  terminates.  A  high  point 
in  this  range  is  opposite  to  the  Fort 
of  Bellary,  within  4  m.  of  it,  and  is 
called  the  Copper  MofmUain,  the  height 
bein^^  1600  ft.  above  the  plain,  and  2800 
ft.  above  the  sea.  Excavations  are  still 
to  be  seen,  said  to  be  l^e  remains  of 
mines  worked  by  order  of  Hyder  'Ali, 
but  abandoned  in  consequence  of  the 
expense  exceeding  the  profit.  Besides 
copper,  haematitic  iron  ore  is  found  in 
large  quantities,  some  of  which  possesses 
magnetic  properties. 

It  is  an  easy  climb  up  to  the  Fort, 
built  on  a  bare  granite  rock  of  semi- 
elliptical  form,  rising  abruptly  from 
the  plain  to  the  height  of  450  ft, 
and  about  2  m.  in  circumference.  The 
rock  is  defended  by  two  distinct  lines 
of  works,  constituting  the  lower  and 
upper  forts,  both  built  of  granite.  In 
the  upper  one,  the  summit  of  which 
is  flat  and  of  considerable  extent,  stands 
the  citadel,  which  is  reputed  to  be  of 
great  antiquity,  and  might  be  rendered 
almost  impregnable.  It  affords,  how- 
ever, no  accommodation  for  troops, 
and  is  consequently  never  occupied 
except  by  a  small  guard.  The  cells  for 
the  military  prisoners  are  built  within 
it.  Several  tanks  or  cisterns  have  been 
hollowed  out  in  the  rook  to  hold  rain- 
water: the  system  of  their  construc- 
tion is  worthy  of  notice.  The  lower 
fort,  which  is  of  more  recent  construc- 
tion, consists  of  low  bastions  connected 
together  by  curtains.  Its  shape  is  quad- 
rangular ;  it  has  a  dry  ditch  and  covered 
way  in  front,  and  surrounds  the  base  of 
the  rock  from  its  S.  W.  to  its  N.E.  angle. 

The  lower  fort  was  built  by  Tipu  in 
1792.  The  upper  fort  has  six  bastions, 
and  deep  cavities  always  full  of  fresh 
water.  There  is  a  granite  piUar  36  ft. 
high,  with  figures  of  Hanuman  and 
other  deities  close  to  an  ancient,  squat 
pagoda  sacred  to  Shiva. 

The  present  fortifications  were  built 
hj  a  staff  of  French  engineers,  tradi- 
tion adding  that  after  the  new  citadel 
had  been  completed  Hyder  'Ali  hanged 
the  French  en^neers  at  the  gate,  as 
he  found  that  his  fort  was  commanded 
by  another  rock.  The  place  came  into 
possession  of  the  British  in  1800. 


The  Arsenal  is  at  the  foot  of  the 
Fort  Rock  in  the  S.W.  angle,  A  tank 
lies  to  the  S.  of  the  Fort,  fed  by  a 
stream.  The  N.I.  regiment  lines  are 
at  the  extreme  S.W.  of  the  cantonment 
The  barracks  of  the  English  Infantry 
are  IJ  m.  to  the  N.  E.  Here  are  Trinity 
Church  and  the  Roman  Cathohc 
Church.  There  is  also  a  handsome 
church,  built  at  the  expense  of  Mr. 
Abraham,  of  fine  white  stone  brought 
from  Shahabad. 

124  m.  Quntakal  juno.  sta.  See 
p.  334. 

167  m.  Kumool  Boad  sta. 

\  m.  distant  is  Dhone.  D.B.  if. 

[From  here  Kumool  is  distant  33 
m.  N.  by  road.  This  is  the  Cajwul 
of  Orme.  Pop.  20,000.  A  civil  sta- 
tion. The  town  stands  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Hindri  and  Tungabhadra 
rivers.  The  old  fort  was  difflnantled 
in  1862,  but  four  bastions  and  three 
gates  still  stand.  Troops  were  stationed 
in  it  until  1871,  and  it  still  contains 
the  palace  of  the  Nawabs.  There  is 
a  fine  mausoleum  of  Abdul  Wahab, 
the  first  Nawab,  and  several  mosques. 
17  m.  u^  stream  at  SunkestUa  are  the 
head  works  of  the  canal ;  the  journey 
can  be  done  in  a  canal  boat] 

214  m.  Nandyal  sta.  Called  from 
Nandiy  the  bull  of  Shiva.  There  are 
several  Shivite  temples  here.  Before 
reaching  it  the  line  passes  through  the 
Gerramalai  Hills  by  many  picturesque 
curves. 

278  m.  Ciimbum  sta.  (R.) 

383  m.  GKintar  sta.  (R.) 

The  Rly.  crosses  the  Eistna  river  by 
a  huge  bridge  just  below  the  irrigation 
dam  before  entering 

400  m.  Beswada  (R.)  D.B.  This 
is  also  the  terminus  of  the  Nizam's 
State  Rly.  from  Wadi,  Hyderabad,  and 
Warangal.  A  line  has  recently  been 
opened  from  Bezwada  to  Barang  (for 
Cuttack)  and  Puri  (Jagannath).  See 
Routes  21  and  25.  An  important 
trading-place  on  the  most  frequented 
crossing  of  the  Klstna  river.  A  fort 
was  erected  here  in  1760,  but  has  since 
been  dismantled.  There  are  rock-eut 
^ddhist  temples  and  Hindu  pagodaa 
In  making  excavations  for  canals  many 
remains  were  exposed,  which  show  tb»t 


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ROUTE  26.       EXCURSIONS  FROM  BEZWADA 


359 


the  place  was,  in  the  Buddhist  period, 
a  considerable  religious  centre. 

It  is  a  toym  with  12,000  inhabitants, 
and  is  situated  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
Kistna,  45  m.  from  its  mouth.  It  is 
shut  in  on  the  W.  by  a  granite  ridge 
600  ft.  high,  running  N.  and  S.,  and 
ending  in  a  soarp  at  the  river.  At 
right  angles  to  this  ridge,  and  i  m. 
from  the  stream,  is  a  similar  ridge 
sheltering  the  town  on  the  N. 
Close  to  the  E.  end  of  N.  ridge  is 
a  sharp -pointed  detached  mass  of 
gneiss,  on  which  are  Buddhistic  caves 
and  cells.  On  the  S.  side  of  the  river, 
opposite  to  Bezwada,  is  a  hill  similar 
to  the  W.  ridge  of  which  it  is  a  con- 
tinuation. It  IS  450  ft.  high,  and  from 
Bezwada  seems  a  perfect  cone.  On  the 
S.  side  of  the  river,  1  m.  to  the  W., 
is  the  Undavilli  Cave-Temple.  The 
rock-cuttings  on  the  hill  to  the  W.  of 
Bezwada  are  made  perpendicularly 
down  the  rock,  which  forms  the  side  of 
a  prism,  and  they  leave  a  platform 
half-way  down,  on  which  buildings 
were  placed  by  the  Buddhists.  One 
such  cutting  gives  a  cave  77  ft.  deep 
X  30  ft.  broad,  with  a  perpendicular 
rocky  face,  and  about  45  ft.  high. 

At  a  little  distance  to  the  S.  of  the 
town  there  is  an  enormous  rock.  It 
was  there  that  the  Master  of  the  Shas- 
tras  attained  the  rank  of  Buddha.  An 
inscription  on  a  pillar  in  the  Temple  of 
Amararshnaraswami,  in  Bezwada,  is 
dated  1283  s.s.  =  1361  A.D.  On  the 
crest  of  the  hill  is  a  bungalow  built 
when  the  Dam  at  Bezwada  was  being 
made.  A  statue  of  Buddha  in  black 
granite  was  removed  from  the  highest 
point  of  this  hill  to  the  library  at 
Bezwada.  Another  Bungalow,  be- 
longing to  the  Church  Missionaries, 
has  been  erected  on  the  platform,  from 
which  steps  ascend  to  the  top  of  the 
hill.  On  the  ridge  to  the  W.  of  the 
town  the  remains  cluster  thickly.  The 
perpendicular  cliff  at  the  back  has  been 
roughly  carved  with  representations  of 
Hindu  deities.  Passing  it,  you  come 
to  a  modem  temple  to  Kanaka  Par- 
gamma.  There  is  also  a  figure  with 
fllegible  writing  in  characters  of  the 
6th  or  7th  century,  and  ap  inscription 
Vfi  old  Telugu, 


In  the  town  of  Bezwada  are  old 
shrines  with  inscriptions  from  the  7th 
century  downwards.  The  caves  of 
Bezwada  are  hollowed  out  of  the  £. 
side  of  the  great  hill  at  the  foot  of 
which  Bezwada  stands.  At  the  foot  of 
the  hill,  at  the  N.£.  comer  of  the  town, 
is  a  small  rock-temple  with  a  figure  of 
Yenayakudu,  or  Ganesh.  Then  come 
several  cells  and  a  good-sized  man- 
dapam,  with  pillars  of  the  solid  rock. 
In  the  temple  of  Malleshwar  Swami, 
which  is  in  the  town,  are  some  figures 
and  pillars  much  older  than  the  temple 
itself.  Besides  the  colossal  figure  of 
Buddha  in  black  granite,  which  came 
from  the  hill  to  the  E.  of  Bezwada, 
and  is  now  in  the  Library,  there  is 
another  colossal  figure  of  Buddha  in  the 
enclosure  of  the  rest-house  for  native 
travellers  at  Gndivada.  The  features 
are  very  fine,  the  hair  woolly.  A  seven- 
headed  serpent  forms  a  canopy  for  the 
statue's  head.  The  Brahmans  call  it 
Muneshwaraswami,  and  claim  Sakya 
Muni  as  a  Brahmanical  deity. 

The  Kistna  Bridge  is  1200  yards 
long  outside  abutments,  with  a  depth 
of  foundations  80  feet  below  low  water, 
and  cost  4,247,850  rupees. 


Exounioiui  from  Bezwada. 
(1)  In  order  to  reach  UndaTiUi 
village,  the  traveller  must  cross  the 
Kistna  from  Bezwada  and  go  1^  m.  up 
the  course  of  the  river  above  and  W . 
of  Sitanagaram.  There  is  a  rock-temple 
of  two  stories  close  to  the  village,  and 
also  a  large  one  of  four  stories,  the 
lower  sto^  being  buried  in  debris. 
This  is  a  Buddhistic  temple  converted 
to  the  worship  of  Anantaswami,  or 
Vishnu.  In  the  third  story  is  a  hall 
supported  by  solid  rock  pillars  repre- 
senting the  rape  of  Sita  by  Ravana,  and 
the  search  for  her  and  ner  rescue  by 
Hanuman,  and  the  defeat  of  Ravana  by 
Bama.  At  the  end  of  the  hill  is  a 
gigantic  figure  of  the  Narsing  Avatara 
recumbent  on  the  Shesh  Nag,  and  with 
two  large  and  several  smaller  figures  at 
his  feet.  There  are  some  remains  of 
painting  on  them.  An  inscription  near 
the  temple  records  a  CTant  by  a  Reddi 
chief  ftot  earlier  thai^  the  ^3th  century. 


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ROUTB  27.       HUBLI  TO  HULLABID  AND  BANGALORE 


India 


(2)  17  m.  W.  of  Bezwada  by  road  is 
Amarayaii,  on  the  rijght  or  S.  bank  of 
the  Kistna  river.  It  ia  a  place  of  mucb 
interest  to  antiquarians  as  an  ancient 
centre  of  the  Buddhist  religion,  and 
the  site  of  a  great  Tope,^  of  which,  bow- 
ever,  scarcely  anything  remains  in  situ. 
What  there  is  lies  to  the  S.  of  the 
town,  just  beyond  the  outer  huts. 
Dr.  Burgess  calls  if  a  deeply  interest- 
ing monument  of  antiquity  unequalled 
for  the  delicacy  of  its  detail  b^  any  of 
the  remains  of  Indian  Architectural 
Art"  Becent  injudicious  excavations 
have  created  sach  confusion  in  the 
debris  that  the  chances  of  forming  an 
idea  of  the  original  size  and  structural 
arrangements  of  the  tope  have  for  ever 
been  destroyed.  Many  examples  of 
the  sculpture  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
•Briti^h  Museuni.  Before  1790  the  tope 
is  said  to  have  presented  the  appear- 
ance of  a  very  large  low  tumulus 
crowned  b^  a  smaller  one  about  80 
yds.  in  diameter,  and  20  ft.  high, 
which  had  been  covered  with  brick, 
and  was  locally  known  as  JHpaldinney 
or  the  Hill  of  Light. 

N,  and  N.W.  of  Amaravati  are  the 
sites  of  former  diamond-workings,  all 
on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river. 


ROUTE  27 

HuBLi  Junction  to  Hullabid  and 
Bangalore. 

Hubli  June.  sta.  (R.)  is  between  Londa 
June,  and  Gadag  junc,  and  127  m.  by 
rail  E.  of  Marmogoa  harbour  on  the 
W.  coast. 

81  m.  Harihar  sta.  (R.)  on  the  rt. 
bank  of  the  Tungabhadra.  In  1868  a 
very  fine  bridge  was  constructed  over 
the  river.  An  inscription  on  copper 
has  been  found  here  of  the  7th  cen- 
tury, and  there  are  several  of  the  12th. 
The  temple  was  erected  in  1223.  In 
1268  additions  were  made  by  Soma, 
the  founder  of  Somnathpur  in  the 
Mysore    district.       In    1277    Saluva 

1  See  Ferguason'fl  Hitt.  of  Ind.  ArcK,  pp. 
71,7  2,  98,  99,  102,  and  r  y  J.  Burgess,  LL.D. 
Amaravati  and  Jaggayapeta  StuuaSj  London 


Tikkama  built  a  temple  to  Mahadeva. 
The  Kings  of  Yijayangar  bestowed 
many  benefactions  on  these  temples 
down  to  the  16th  centu^.  After  the 
fall  of  yyayanagar,  the  Tarikere  chiefs 
seized  the  place  and  built  the  fort. 

178  m.  Banawar  sta. 

[The  renewed  ruins  of  Hullabid  lie 
20  m.  S.W.  from  this  point  by  road ; 
past  JamgaZ  (12  m.)  At  10  hl 
beyond  in  the  same  direction  is  Blur. 
We  take  these  places  on  the  return 
journey  to  ths  railway  station. 

Belnr  (or  Baillur),  on  the  rt.  bank 
of  the  Yagache,  pop.  about  8000.  In 
the  Puranas  and  old  inscriptions  it  is 
called  Velapura,  and  is  styled  the  S. 
Benares.  Here  is  the  famous  temple 
of  Chenna  Eesava,  erected  and  endowed 
by  the  Hoysala king,  Vishnu  Yardhana, 
on  exchanging  the  Jain  faith  for  that 
of  Yishnu  m  tne  be^innin^  of  the  12tli 
century.  The  carvmg  with  which  it 
is  decorated  rivals  in  design  and 
finish  that  of  Hullabid,  ana  is  the 
work  of  the  same  artist,  Jakanachari 
The  image  of  Chenna  Kesava  is  said  to 
have  been  brought  from  the  Baba 
Budan  hills,  but  that  of  his  goddess 
was  left  behind,  which  obliges  him  to 
pay  her  a  visit  there  at  stated  inter- 
vals. The  Great  Temple  stands  within 
a  high  wall  which  surrounds  a  court, 
440  ft.  X  860  ft.  In  this  court  are, 
besides  the  Great  Temple,  four  or  five 
smaller  ones.  On  the  E.  front  are  two 
fine  gopuras.  **It  consists,"  says  Mr. 
Fergusson,  "  of  a  very  solid  vimanah, 
with  an  anteraJa,  or  porch ;  and  in  front 
of  this  a  porch  of  the  usual  star-like  form, 
measuring  90  ft.  across.  The  arrange- 
ments of  the  pillars  have  much  of  that 
pleasing  subordination  and  variety  of 
spacing  which  is  found  in  those  of  the 
Jains,  but  we  miss  here  the  octagonal 
dome,  which  cives  such  poetry  and 
meaning  to  the  arrangements  they 
adopted.  Instead  of  these  we  have 
only  an  exaggerated  compartment  in 
the  centre,  wnich  fits  nothing,  and, 
ihoilgh  it  does  give  dignity  to  the 
centre,  it  does  it  so  clumsily  as  to  be 
nlmost  offensive  in  an  architectural 
sense."  The  windows  to  the  porch 
are  28,   and  all  diiferent.     Some  are 


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KOUTE  27.       HULLABID KETARESVARA — HOYSALESHWARA        361 


pierced  with  star-shaped,  conventional 
patterns,  and  with  foliaged  patterns 
between.  Others  are  interspersed  with 
mythological  figures,  as  tne  Yaraha 
avatar.  The  base  is  very  richly  carved, 
and  is  supported  on  carved  elephants. 
Mr.  Fergusson  says:  ''The  amount  of 
labour  which  each  facet  of  this  porch 
displays  is  such  as  never  was  bestowed 
on  any  surface  of  equal  extent  in  any 
buildm^  in  the  world ;  and  though  the 
design  is  not  of  the  highest  omer  of 
art,  it  is  elegant  and  appropriate,  and 
never  ofifends  against  good  taste.  The 
sculptures  of  the  base  of  the  vimanah 
are  as  elaborate  as  those  of  the  porch, 
in  some  places  more  so  ;  and  the  mode 
in  which  the  under  sides  of  the  cor- 
nices have  been  elaborated  and  adorned 
is  such  as  is  only  to  be  found  in  temples 
of  this  class." 

Hullabid,  from  the  Eanarese  words, 
Aafe,  *  *  old, "  bidUf  *  *  ruins, "  is  a  village 
10  m,.  N.E.  of  Belur,  with  1200  in- 
habitants. It  marks  the  site  of  Dorasa- 
mudra,  the  old  capital  of  the  Hoysala 
Bsdlala  kings.  Jt  was  founded  early 
in  the  12th  century,  but  was  rebuilt  in 
the  middle  of  the  13th  by  Vira  Somesh- 
wara,  and  some  inscriptions  represent 
him  to  be  the  founder.  Attacked  by 
leprosy,  he  withdrew  to  the  neighbour- 
ing hill  of  Pushpagiri  (Mountain  of 
Flowers),  where  he  was  instructed  to 
erect  temples  to  Shiva  to  obtaia  a  cure. 
The  Mohammedan  general  Kafor  took 
the  city  in  1310,  and  plundered  it  of 
immense  wealth.  In  1326  another 
army  of  Mohammedans  carried  off  what 
remained,  and  destroyed  the  city.  The 
Rwa  then  removed  to  Tonnur. 

Tliere  are  2  most  remarkable  temples 
remaining.  (1)  The  Ketaresvara,  the 
smaller  of  the  two,  but  a  miracle  of  art. 
Unfortunately,  a  tree  took  root  in  the 
vimanah,  or  tower,  over  the  sanctuary, 
and  dislodged  the  stones.  Many  of 
the  fibres,  thrust  out  of  their  places 
in  this  maimer,  have  been  removed 
to  the  Museum  at  Bangalore.  It 
is  now  fast  goiug  to  ruin.  It  is 
star-shaped,  with  sixteen  points,  and 
had  a  porch,  now  ruined  and  covered 
with  vegetation.  It  has  a  conical 
roof,  and  from  base  to  top  "is  covered 
with    sculptures    of    the    very    best 


Indian  art,  and  these  so  arranged  as 
not  materially  to  interfere  .wiSi  the 
outlines  of  the  building."  It  was,^ 
when  intact,  the  finest  specimen  of 
Indian  art  in  existence. 

(2)  The  HoysaleBhwara,  "Lord  of  the 
Hoysalas,"  much  larger  t^an  the  Eetar- 
esvara.  It  stands  on  a  terrace,  5  ft. 
6  in.  in  height,  paved  with  large  slabs. 
The  temple  itself  is  160  ft.  from  N.  to  S. 
by  122  ft.  from  E.  to  W.,  and  beyond 
its  walls  thpre  is  a  clear  margm  of 
platform  aU  round  of  about  20  ft*  The 
height  from  the  terrace  to  the  cornice 
is  25  ft..  It  is  a  double  temple,  one 
half  being  sacred  to  Shiva,  and  the 
other  to  his  wife.  Each  half  has  a 
pavilion  in  front  containing  the  Baswa^ 
or  Nandif  a  bull. ,  The  larger  of  the 
two  is  16  ft.  long  by  7  ft.  broad  and 
10  ft.  high,  the  animal  being  repre- 
sented lying  down. 

Some  of  the  pillars  in  the  inner  part 
of  the  temple  are  of  black  hornblende, 
and  have  a  dazzling  polish,  which,  as 
Buchanan  tells  us  (voL  iii.  p.  392), 
"reflects  objects  double,  which  by  the 
natives  ia  looked  upon  as  miraculous." 
Alluding  to  the  many  friezes  that  sur- 
round the  temple,  Fergusson  says 
"Some  of  these  are  carved  with  a 
minute  elaboration  of  detail  which,  can 
only  be  reproduced  by  photography, 
and  may  probably  be  considered  as  one 
of  the  most  marvellous  exhibitions  of 
human  labour  to  be  foimd  even  in  the 
patient  East."  He  adds:  "Here  the 
artistic  combination  of  horizontal  with 
vertical  lines,  and  the  play  of  outline 
and  of  light  and  shade,  far  suinpass 
anything  in  (Gothic  art.  The  effects 
are  just  what  the  mediaeval  architects 
were  often  aiming  at,  but  which  they 
never  attained  so  perfectly  as  was  done 
at  Hullabid."  In  the  friezes  of  sculp- 
tured animals  which  surround  the 
building,  the  succession  is  always  the 
same,  the  elephants  being  the  lowest, 
next  above  them  the  shardalas  (or  con- 
ventional lions),  then  the  horses,  then 
the  oxen,  then  birds.  Fergusson  places 
Hullabid  temple  and  the  Parthenon 
as  the  two  extremes  of  architectural 
art,  and  says :  "It  would  be  possible 
to  arrange  all  the  buildings  of  the 
world  between  these  two  extremes,  as 

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362 


ROUTR  27.       HUBLT  TO  HULLABTB  AND  BANGALORE 


India 


they  tended  toward  the  severe  intel- 
leotual  pnritv  of  the  one,  or  the  playful 
exaberant  rancy  of  the  other;  but 
perfeotion,  if  it  existed,  would  be  some- 
where near  the  mean." 

Admiration  for  this  vast  temple 
should  not  cause  neglect  of  the  group 
of  extremely  beautiful  Jain  Bastis  at 
the  farther  end  of  the  village. 

Jamgal. — ^The  temple  here  is  dedi- 
cated to  Narsinga,  and  built  entirely 
of  halapamiy  or  pot-stone.  Buchanan 
says :  "  It  is  highly  ornamented  after 
the  Hindu  feishion,  and  on  the  outside 
every  part  of  its  walls  is  covered  with 
small  images  in  full  relievo." 

188  m.  Anikere  sta.  (B.)  Gold- 
mining  has  been  started  here  with  but 
poor  results  as  yet.  32  m.  S.  from 
this  place  is  the  town  of  Chanroya- 
patTia.^  The  fort  was  built  subse- 
quently, and  Hyder  *Ali  added  the  wet 
moat  and  traverse  gateways. 

[At  8  m.  S.E.  of  this  place  is  Shra- 
vana  Belagola.  Bhadra  Bahu,  the 
Jain  sage,  died  here  in  the  4th  century 
B.C.,  and  was  a  Sh/nuta  kevala,  or 
immediate  "hearer"  of  the  six  dis- 
ciples of  Mahavira,  founder  of  the  Jain 
sect.  The  chief  attendant  of  thisworthy 
is  said  to  have  been  the  &mous  Em- 
peror Chandragupta,  or  Sandracottus, 
who  abdicated  to  live  the  life  of  a  recluse 
with  him.  These  events  are  confirmed 
by  inscriptions  on  the  rock  of  very 
great  antiquity.  The  grandson  of 
Chandragupta  is  said  to  nave  visited 
the  spot  with  an  army,  and  from  his 
camp  arose  the  town  of  Shravana 
Belgola  or  Belgola  of  the  Shravans= 
Jains.  Near  the  town,  which  has 
1300  inhabitants,  are  two  rooky  hills — 
Indra-betta  and  Qhandragiri,  On 
Indra-betta  is  a  colossal  statue  of 
Gomata  Raya,  70  ft.  3  in.  It  is 
nude,  and  faces  the  N.  The  face  has 
the  calm  look  usual  in  Buddhist 
statues.  The  hair  is  curled  in  short 
spiral  ringlets  all  over  the  head. 
The  ears  are  long  and  large,  the 
shoulders  very  broad,  the  arms  hang- 
ing straight  down  with  the  thumbs 
outwards,  the  waist  small.  From  the 
I  ^e  temple  was  erected  In  160Q, 


knees  downwards  the  legs  are  unnatur- 
ally short;  the  feet  rest  on  a  lotus. 
Ant-hills  are  represented  rising  on 
either  side,  with  a  creeping  plant  spring- 
ing from  them  which  twines  round 
the  thighs  and  arms,  ending  in  a 
tendril  with  bunches  of  fhrit.  These 
are  intended  to  qnnbolise  the  deep 
abstraction  of  the  sage,  so  absorbed  in 
meditation  that  the  ants  build  and  the 
plants  climb  aroimd  him  unnotioed. 

Though  certainly  1000  years  old,  and 
probably  2000,  the  stone  looks  as  fresh 
as  if  newly  quarried.  Within  tiie 
encloGRire  are  72  small  statues,  of 
like  appearance,  in  compartments. 
An  inscription  on  the  front  of  the 
colossus  states  that  it  was  erected  by 
Chamunda  Raya,  who  is  said  to  have 
lived  60  b.c.  The  place  abounds  with 
inscriptions,  the  most  interesting  of 
which  are  cut  in  the  face  of  the  rock  at 
Indra-betta  in  ancient  characters  1  ft 
long.  On  Chandragiri  there  are  15 
Jain  temples.] 

248  m.  Tmnkar  sta.  (K)  chief  town 
and  headquarters  of  a  district  of  the 
same  name.  A  civil  and  military  sta- 
tion, prettily  situated  at  the  S.W. 
base  of  the  Devaraydurga  group  of 
hills.  Pop.  10,000.  The  Deputy  6Mn- 
missioner  8  Court-house  is  a  curious- 
looking  circular  building,  three  stories 
high.  There  is  a  Wesleyan  Misaon 
here,  with  a  chapel  and  several  schools. 
Glass  bangles  are  extensively  made 
here ;  and  there  are  120  forges  where 
arms  and  cutlery  are  produced.  The 
masons  are  specially  noted  for  the  stone 
idols  they  carve ;  and  musical  instru- 
ments made  here  are  much  prized.  In 
the  Tumkur  district  there  are  8763 
cotton  looms  and  34,801  cotton-spinning 
wheels. 

288  m.  Bangalore  junc.  sta.  (see 
p.  376). 


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EOUTE  28.      BOMBAY  TO  COLOMBO 


363 


ROUTE  28 
Bombay  to  Tuticorin  and 

Colombo  by  Coi!bTiNa-STEAM£B 

The  British  India  Steam  Navigation 
Company  has  a  weekly  service  to  all  the 
ports  mentioned  below,  but  during  the 
S.  W.  monsoon  some  cannot  be  call^  at. 

From  Bombay  126  m.  Ratna^iri/sO^ 
D.B.  This  place  is  the  principal  civil 
station  in  the  S.  Eonkan.  A  small  de- 
tachment of  troops  is  usually^stationed 
at  it.  Here  Thebaw,  the  last  king  of 
Upper  Burma,  and  his  queen,  have  been 
detained  since  the  last  Burmese  war. 
The  town  is  large  and  open,  facing  the  sea. 
There  are  two  small  bays  formed  by  a 
rock  on  which  the  fort  is  built.  There 
is  neitheor  shelter  nor  good  anchorage,  as 
the  harbour  is  completely  exposed,  and 
the  bottom  is  hard  sand  withrock.  IVith 
any  breeze  from  the  W.  there  are  heavy 
breakers  on  the  bar  at  the  entrance  of  the 
river,  and  boats  crossit  only  at  <he  top  of 
high  water.  The  landing-place  for  boats 
is  on  the  S.  of  the  fort,  near  a  small  tank, 
close  to  high -water  mark.  The  Ga/n- 
tonment  lies  on  the  N.  of  the  town. 
Ratnagiri  derives  its  name  from  the 
demon  JSo^ioaz^,  who  was  killed  by  an 
incarnation  of  Shiva  called  Na;th,  or 
Jotiba,  who  is  worshipped  at  a  famous 
temple  near  Eolhapur.  To  the  tourist, 
however,  the  principal  thing  of  interest 
here  is  the  Tarli,  or  *'  sardine  "  fishing, 
which  is  pretty  to  'witness.  Fleets  of 
canoes  may  be  seen  putting  out  for  these 
fish  in  January  and  February.  Three 
men  are  required  in  each  canoe,  two  to 
paddle  and  one  to  cast  the  net.  The 
attitudes  of  the  men  engaged  in  casting 
the  nets  are  beautifiu,  and  display 
their  fine  athletic  figures  to  advantage. 
They  stand  in  the  bows  of  the  canoes, 
leaning  slightly  forward,  with  the  nets 
gathered  up,  and  with  eyes  glancing 
keenly  around  in  search  of  the  shoaL 
The  fish,  which  is  most  delicious,  is 
caught  in  such  numbers  that  a  single 
net-caster  will  fill  his  canoe  in  the 
course  of  the  morning,  as  many  as  fifty 
fish  being  taken  at  a  single  cast ;  and 
quantities  of  the  fish  are  used  to  manure 
the  rice -fields.     At  these  times  the 

*  Places  at  which  steamers  40  not  caU  regn- 


deep-sea  fishing  is  entirely  neclected. 
The  fishing  is  within  a  short  distance 
of  the  shore,  just  outside  the  breakers, 
and  can  be  carried  on  only  when  the 
water  is  sufficiently  clear  to  admit  of 
the  fish  being  readily  seen. 

Kabadevi  Bay,  7  m.  N.  of  Ratnagiri, 
is  a  safe  anchorage  during  the  S.W. 
monsoon.  There  is  a  good  road  to 
Ratnagiii. 

227  m.  Marmagoa  *  (for  GK>a).  See 
pp.  301-2. 

275  m.  Earwar,*  D.B.  Anchorace 
500  yds.  from  shore.  Boats  1  r.  each. 
This  port  has  been  considered  the 
safest  anchorage  between  Bombay  and 
Cochin ;  but  with  the  opening  of  the 
railway  from  Marmagoa,  and  tiie  large 
expenditure  of  money  on  that  harbour, 
it  is  attracting  all  the  trade  from 
Earwar.  Here  the  hills  of  N.  Eanara 
oome  down  to  the  wator's  edge,  and 
the  fcnrest  and  the  sea  may  be  said  to 
meet.  The  scenery  is  very  beautiful. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  coast 
much  resembles  that  of  the  Japanese 
islands,  and  the  harbour  is  extremely 
like  the  beautiful  little  harbour  of 
Tsnsima.  In  1660  Earwar  was  a 
dependency  of  Bijapur,  and  was  the 
site  of  a  prosperous  English  factory, 
which  gave  occupation  to  50,000 
weavers  in  the  interior.  In  1665  Shivaji, 
the  founder  of  the  Maratha  power, 
exacted  a  contribution  of  £112  from 
the  English.  In  1673  the  military 
governor  laid  siege  to  the  factory.  In 
1674  the  Marathas  burned  Earwar  town, 
but  did  not  harm  the  English.  The 
factory  was  withdrawn  in  1679,  in  con- 
sequence of  exactions,  but  was 
restored  on  a  larger  scale  in  1682.  In 
1684  the  English  were  nearly  driven 
out,  the  crew  of  a  vessel  having  stolen 
and  killed  a  cow.  The  factory  was 
again  removed  in  1720,  and  not  restored 
imtil  1750.  The  Portuguese  took  the 
northern  fort  in  1752,  and  in  1801  Old 
Earwar  was  in  ruins.  There  are  several 
islands  off  the  coast  called  the  Oyster 
Rocks,  on  the  largest  of  which,  Devgarh, 
is  a  lighthouse  210  ft.  above  the  sea, 
showing  a  white  fixed  light  on  a  white 
tower,  which  is  y\a\hle  %h  i^,  ^t  a^^ 

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364 


ROUTE  28.      BOlfBAT  TO  COLOMBO 


India 


Anjidiva  Tslandf  5  m.  S.K  of  the 
Oyster  Rocks,  rises  steep  from  the  sea. 
It  is  a  Portuguese  settlement. 

[Honawar  is  50  m.  S.  of  Earwar. 
The  bar  at  the  entrance  is  now  so 
dangerous  that  the  coasting-steamers 
do  not  call,  but  they  sometimes  stop 
outside  for  passengers  to  land.  Ar- 
rangement should  be  made  beforehand 
with  the  shipping  agents  (see  also  Ex- 
cursion No.  10  &om  Bombay).  This 
is  the  place  from  which  the  celebrated 
Falls  o/Gersoppa  can  be  most  conveni- 
ently visited. 

This  port  has  been  a  good  outlet  for 
the  produce  of  this  part  of  N.  Eanara. 
The  Gersoppa  or  Shiravati  river  flow- 
ing towards  it,  is  met  by  an  inlet  of  the 
sea,  forming  a  salt-water  lake  7  m.  in 
lenj^h  from  3.K  to  N.W.,  and  S  m. 
in  its  greatest  breadth.  This  lake  con- 
tains several  islands,  and  abounds  with 
fish.  Honawar  is  situated  on  the  N. 
side  of  it.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  a 
subdivision,  and  contains  about  12,000 
inhabitants.  On  account  of  the  pepper 
grown  in  the  surrounding  countiy,  a 
small  factory  containing  eighteen  per- 
sons was  established  here  by  the  English 
at  a  very  early  period  after  their  arrival 
in  India,  but  after  a  short  time  it  came 
to  a  melancholy  end.  About  the  year 
1670  the  chief  pocured  a  fine  bull-doff 
from  the  captam  of  an  English  vessel 
which  had  come  there  to  take  in  cargo. 
This  animal,  when  accompanying  the 
factors  on  an  excursion,  seized  a  sacred 
cow  in  the  neighbourhood  of  a  Hindu 
temple,  and  killed  her.  Instigated  by 
the  Brahmans,  the  natives  were  resolved 
to  revenge  this  injury  to  their  preju- 
dices, and  in  a  fury  of  fanaticism  mur- 
dered every  Englishman.  Some  natives, 
more  friendly  than  the  rest,  caused  a 
large  grave  to  be  dug,  and  in  it  the 
eighteen  victims  were  interred.  The 
chief  of  the  factory  at  Karwar  sent  a 
moniunental  stone,  on  which  was  en- 
graved the  story  of  their  wretched  fate. 
In  the  time  of  Hyder  there  was  a  con- 
siderable trade  in  pepper  and  sandal 
wood  from  this  plaoie,  and  that  prince 
established  at  it  a  dock  for  bmlding 
ships  of  war.  In  the  time  of  Buchanan 
C1900)  th§  wfeoks  of  spme  of  these 


vessels  remained  in  the  lake,  having 
been  sunk  by  the  British  troops  when 
they  carried  the  Jort  by  assault.  So 
early  as  1569  we  near  of  Honawar  as  a 
rich  and  beautiful  city,  with  a  fort, 
belonging  to  the  Queen  of  Grersoppa ; 
and  the  Portuguese  at  that  tune 
plundered  and  burned  it,  but  shortly 
after  fortified  and  garrisoned  it  anew. 
It  then  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Rajahs 
of  Bednur,  and  next  passed  with  their 
other  possessions  to  Hyder.  In  1783 
it  was  taken  by  the  forces  under  Gr^ieral 
Matthews,  but  restored  next  year  to 
Tipu  by  the  treaty  of  Mangalore. 

The  Falls  of  Ctersoppa. — ^The  journey 
from  Honawar  may  be  best  described 
by  an  extract  frx>m  the  jonmsd  of  an 
accomplished  writer  who  visited  the 
falls  in  1888.  He  says:  ''Arrangements 
had  been  made  for  our  passage  to  the 
Gersoppa  Falls.  We  went  on  the  same 
night  18  m.  in  boats  up  the  moonlit 
river,  grounded  on  a  sandbank,  and 
were  pulled  off  only  to  find  the  rowers 
had  landed  to  drink  success  to  our 
future  progress,  to  which  this  indul- 
gence by  no  means  conduced.  Arrived 
at  Gersoppa,  we  slept  in  the  D.B., 
awoke. to  the  crowing  of  the  jungle 
cock,  and  went  on  20  m.  by*  road  to 
Kodkani,  Here  is  another  D.B., 
whence  you  look  down  into  a  boiling 
chaos  of  waters.  The  road  fit)m  Ger- 
soppa to  Kodkani  is  one  long  bower  of 
evergreen  Irees,  and  at  mid -day  you 
scarcely  see  the  sun.  These  jun^^es 
abound  with  tigers,  bears,  bison,  and 
game  of  all  kinds,  large  and  small." 
The  hamlet  near  the  Falls  is  called 
Kodkani.  There  are  two  D.Bs.,  the 
Eanara  and  the  Mysore,  distant  from 
one  another  710  yds.,  and  almost  \  m. 
from  the  Falls.  The  Eanara  bun^ow 
\b  small  but  comfortable,  and  beauti- 
fully situated.  From  the  window  of 
the  bungalow  herds  of  wild  bison  may 
sometimes  be  seen.  After  a  short  walk 
through  a  beautifril  wood,  the  sound 
of  rushing  waters  breaks  upon  the  ear ; 
and  as  One  descends  the  last  slope  to 
the  bed  of  the  river  above  the  Falls 
fitful  gleams  of  silvery  light  bursting; 
forth  from  the  dark  masses  of  rook 
^announce  the  cataracts.  During  the 
rains  ;t  woi4d  be  difficult,  perhaps,  ^ 

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VLOVTT&  28.       MANGAtORt! 


^pi'oaoii  80  as  to  gain  a  complete  view. 
But  at  other  seasons,   after  crossing 
some  50  ft.  of  tlie  rocky  bed  of  the 
river,   the  traveller  comes  fall  on  a 
tremendous  gulf.     On  three  sides  de- 
scend the  sheets  of  silvery  foam  with 
fitunning  roar,  and  shoot  like  rockets 
down  an  unbroken  fall  of  near  1000  ft. , 
where,  in  the  gulf  below,  an  unfathom- 
able pool  receives  them.     The  river 
bears  several  names,  but  here  is  called 
the  Kural.    Its  bed  is  here  about  600  ft. 
across,  of  laterite  mixed  with  mica  and 
felspar,  worn  and  riven  by  the  violence 
of  the  stream  into  innumerable  fantas- 
tic shapes.    In  one  place  there  appears 
a  succession  of  waves  of  stone,  and  in 
,  another  rocks  are  piled  on  rocks  in 
perfect  chaos,   while  some  a^ain  are 
shapen  into  hollow  cylinders,  m  which 
the  stream  boils  and  bubbles  as  in  a 
caldron. 

There  are  in  all  four  falls,  which 
have  been  called  the  Cfreat  Fall,  the 
Roarer,  the  Rocket,  and  the  Dame 
Blanche.  In  the  first  of  these  the 
water  m  considerable  volume  leaps 
sheer  down  a  height  of  829  ft.,  measured 
by  line,  and  falls  into  a  pool  132  ft. 
deep.  The  spectator  may  look  sheer 
down  into  this  abyss.  Viewed  from 
below  and  at  some  distance,  this  fall 
contrasts  with  magical  effect  with  the 
next  fall,  the  Boarer,  Here  a  still 
larger  body  of  water  rushes  with  less 
abruptness,  foaming  down  a  tortuous 
channel  into  a  cavern  or  cup,  which 
turns  it  into  the  bed  below.  The  name 
given  to  the  next  fall,  the  Rocket,  is  very 
appropriate.  It  continually  shoots  out 
in  jets  of  foam,  which  burst  like  fire- 
rockets  into  showers  of  glittering  drops. 
The  Dame  Blanche  is  exquisitely  beauti- 
ful, but,  from  above,  seems  quite  gentle 
as  compared  with  the  other  three.  TTie 
guides  conduct  the  traveller  to  three 
points  to  view  the  falls  from  above, 
and  it  is  difficult  to  say  which  surpasses 
the  other.  The  descent  is  both  steep 
and  circuitous.  It  is  said  that  tigers 
have  been  seen  here.  To  make  the 
descent  after  crossing  the  bed  of  the 
river,  a  wood  is  passed,  and  some  steps 
are  reached,  cut  in  the  rock  by  a  Rajah 
half  a  century  «^o. 

The  Queen  of  Gersoppa,  called  by  the 


Portuguese  the  lUinha  da  PimefUo,  or 
Pepper  Queen,  was  a  great  dietary  in 
the  I7th  century.  Her  subjects  were 
chiefly  Jains,  by  whom  the  nearest 
village  to  the  falls  is  at  present  almost 
entirely  inhabited.  Among  the  ruins 
of  the  ci-hr  are  two  ordinary  Jain 
temples.  Through  the  rank  and  luxuri- 
ant vegetation  you  can  plainly  make 
out  the  streets  and  even  tne  houses. 

407  m.  Mangalore,  the  ca|)ital  of 
S.  Kanara,  in  the  Madras  Presidency. 
The  anchorage  is  2  m.  from  the  shore. 
Boat  hire,  If  r.  each  boat.  Pop.  32, 000. 
Mangalore  is  separated  from  the  sea  by  a 
backwater  formed  by  the  junction  of  two 
streams.  In  the  rains  these  rivers,  which 
flow  round  two  sides  of  a  peninsula  on 
which  the  town  and  cantonment  of  Man- 
galorestand, bringdown  a  largequantity 
of  water,  and  they  are  then  navigable  for 
boats  of  some  burthen  to  a  consider- 
able distance  inland.  In  the  dry 
season  there  is  but  little  current  in 
either,  except  that  caused  by  the  in- 
fluence of  the  tide,  which  flows  to  about 
9  or  10  m.  from  their  mouth.  The 
banks  of  these  rivers  are  high  and 
steep,  and  are,  where  the  soil  permits, 
planted  with  cocoa-nut  trees,  or  laid 
out  in  gardens  and  rice-fields.  At  the 
back  of  th6  present  landing-place  the 

rt  bazaar  commences,  and  stretches 
on  the  edge  of  the  backwater 
about  i  m.  The  general  apjpearance  of 
Mangalore  from  the  sea  is  picturesque. 
The  nouses  are  detached,  particularly 
those  towards  the  N.,  on  separate 
hills,  whence  an  extensive  view  is  to  be 
had,  while  the  thick  woods  add  much 
to  the  beauty  of  the  place.  In  ancient 
times  Mangalore  was  a  place  of  very 
great  commerce.  Ibn  Bisktuta,  in  the 
middle  of  the  14th  century,  speaks  of 
4000  Mohammedan  merchants  as  re- 
sident there.  Forbes  speaks  of  it,  in 
1772,  as  the  principal  seaport  in  the 
dominions  of  Hyder  'Ali,  and  well 
situated  for  commerce.  Moreover, 
both  Hyder's  and  Tipu's  ships  of  war 
were  built  at  Mangalore,  of  the  fine 
teak  produced  on  the  slopes  of  the 
ghats.  But  in  the  last  forty  years  con- 
siderable changes  have  taken  place  in 
the    harbour,    which,    commercially, 

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SdC( 


llOUTB  28.       BOMBAt  TO  OOtOM^O 


tniia 


have  much  injured  it  These  changes 
in  the  harbour  appear  to  have  origin- 
ated, in  the  first  place,  from  an  opening 
having  been  cut  by  the  natives  through 
a  narrow  part  of  the  back  sand  to  the 
N.  of  the  present  outlet,  to  permit  the 
escape  of  tne  freshes  in  the  river,  which 
had  caused  alarm  in  consequence  of  an 
unusual  rise.  The  sea  entered  the  cut, 
and  has  formed  an  extensive  and  per- 
manent opening.  Mangalore  was  most 
gallantly  defended  by  Col.  Campbell 
of  the  42d  from  May  6th  1782  to 
January  30th  1783,  with  a  garrison  of 
1850  men,  of  whom  412  were  English 
soldiers,  against  Tipu's  whole  army 
(see  Wilks,  vol.  ii.  pp.  466-86). 

Mangalore  may  be  called  a  miniature 
Bombay,  from  tne  variety  of  nationali- 
ties to  be  met — Europeans,  Indo-Portu- 
guese.  East  Indians,  Parsis,  Moguls, 
Arabs,  Sidis,  Konkanis,  Mapimhs, 
Kanarese,  and  Tamulians.  The  ver- 
nacular of  the  place,  however,  is  Tuluva, 
a  dialect  of  Kanarese. 

The  Qernuxn  Mission  at  Mangalore  is 
worthy  of  a  visit.  Various  industries 
and  trades  are  taught — printing,  book- 
binding, carpentry,  tile  manufacture, 
etc.  There  are  two  colleges,  affiliated 
to  the  Madras  Uni  versity,  — the  Govern  - 
ment  College  and  the  JesuU  College  of 
St.  Aloysius. 

A  recent  traveller  says :  "  We  saw 
an  exhibition  of  the  products  of  this 
district.  The  description  of  Marco  Polo 
will  answer  equally  at  the  present  day. 
He  says :  *  There  is  in  this  kingdom  a 
great  quantity  of  pepper,  and  ginger, 
and  cinnamon,  ana  of  nuts  of  Inaia. 
They  also  manufacture  very  delicate 
and  beautiful  buckrams.  They  also 
bring  hither  cloths  of  silk  and  gold, 
also  gold  and  silver,  cloves  and  spike- 
nard, and  other  fine  spices  for  which 
there  is  a  demand  here.*  " 

There  is  an  obelisk  in  the  Burial- 
ground  to  the  memory  of  Brigadier- 
General  Camac,  who  died  here  aged 
eighty -four,  in  1806.  He  was  second 
in  command  to  Olive  at  the  battle  of 
Plassey. 

484  m.  Cannannore.  Anchorage  2 
m.  from  shore.     Boat  hire  14  ans.  each 


passenger -boat.  It  has  26, 000  inhabit- 
ants, and  is  a  municipality  and  mili- 
tary station.  D.B.  good.  The  canton- 
ment is  on  a  jutting  portion  of  land, 
which  forms  the  N.  W.  side  of  the  bay. 
Near  the  end  of  this  is  a  promontory, 
on  which  stands  the  fort  Duilt  by  the 
Portuguese.  This,  since  its  acquisition 
by  the  English,  has  been  improved  and 
strengthened.  The  difife  are  from  30 
ft.  to  60  ft.  high  here,  with  piles  of 
rocky  boulders  at  their  feet.  The 
bungalows  of  the  officers  are  most  of 
them  built  on  the  edge  of  these  cUfi^ 
and  enjoy  a  cooling  sea-breeze.  Farther 
inland,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  canton- 
ment, are  the  Church,  magazine,  and 
English  burial-ground,  contiguous  to 
one  another.  The  Portuguese  Church, 
once  the  Portuguese  feuitory,  is  close  to 
the  sea.  The  dimate  of  Cannannore  is 
mild,  equable,  and  remarkably  healthy. 
The  town  is  surrounded  by  small  hills 
and  narrow  valleys.  Clumps  of  cocoa- 
nut  trees  form  one  of  the  characteristic 
features  of  the  place.  The  Portuguese 
had  a  fort  here  as  early  as  1505. 
They  were  expelled  by  the  Dutch, 
who  subsequently  sold  the  place  to 
a  Mapilah  family.  The  territory 
consists  only  of  the  town  and  the 
country  for  about  2  m.  roimd,  for 
which  an  annual  rent  of  14,000  rs. 
is  paid ;  but  the  sovereignty  of  the 
Laccadive  Islands  also  belongs  to  the 
Rajah  of  Cannannore.  In  1768  'AH 
Rajah,  the  then  ruling  chief,  readily 
submitted  to  Hyder  'Ali,  and  joined 
him  on  his  inva(ting  Malabar.  In  the 
war  with  Tipu,  in  1783,  it  was  occu- 
pied by  the  English ;  but  on  the 
conclusion  of  peace  next  year  it  was 
restored  to  the  Mapilah  chief.  It 
soon,  however,  fell  into  ih.e  hands  of 
Tipu,  from  whom  it  was  wrested  by 
General  Abercromby. 

497  m.  TelUchorry.  Anchorage  IJ 
m.  from  shore.  Boat  hire  14  ans.  per 
boat.  D.B.  good.  Pop.  about  26,000. 
The  native  town  lies  low,  yet  the  situa- 
tion is  picturesque,  being  backed  by 
wooded  hills,  interspersed  wiiJh  valleys 
and  watered  by  a  fine  river.  It  is 
considered  very  healthy ;  Forbes  calls 
it  the  Montpellier  of  India ;  but  deli- 


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itOUTE  28.      OALICU* 


367 


cste  ^uropeand  suffer  from  the  damp- 
ness of  the  climate.  There  is  a  reef  of 
rooks  which  forms  a  natural  break- 
-water.  Within  there  is  sufficient 
depth  of  water  for  a  ship  of  600  tons 
to  ride  at  anchor.  As  the  wind  and 
current  prevail  very  much  from  the 
Jl,W,  during  what  is  called  the  S.  W. 
inonsoon,  the  water  is  not  so  smooth 
upon  the  beach  immediately  opposite 
this  reef  as  it  is  a  little  to  the  S.  of  it. 
In  1781  H.M.  ship  Superb  of  seventy- 
four  guns  was  lost  here.  The  Fort, 
'which  Forbes  speaks  of  as  *' large  and 
TTcll  garrisoned,"  is  built  on  a  rising 
ground  close  to  the  sea,  and  is  about 
40  ft.  above  its  level.  The  whole  of 
the  N.W.  side  of  the  citadel  is  occupied 
by  a  lofty  building,  the  upper  part  of 
which  is  now  the  District  Judge's 
Court  and  offices,  while  the  lower  part 
forms  the  jail. 

The  Cardamoms  of  JFynaad,  which 
are  mostly  exported  from  Tellicherry, 
are  reckoned  the  best  in  the  world. 
The  seed  ripens  in  Sept.  Excellent 
sandal-wood  is  also  exported.  The 
English  factory  at  Tellicherry,  which 
was  established  chiefly  for  the  pur- 
chase of  pe})per  and  cardamoms,  was 
first  opened  in  1683,  under  orders  from 
the  Presidencw^  of  Surat.  In  1708  the 
East  India  Company  obtained  from 
the  Cherikal  Rajah  a  grant  of  the  Fort. 
In  1782  Hyder  'Aii  attacked  the 
plaoe,  but  was  compelled  by  the 
vigorous  sally  of  the  garrison  under 
M^or  Abin^n  to  raise  the  siege. 

The  coastmg- steamers  do  not  touch 
at  Mah^  (pop.  8000),  as  it  is  only  five 
miles  from  Tellicherry.  Mdh^,  derived 
from  Mdhif  "  a  fish, "  a  dependent  terri- 
tory of  2  sq.  m.,  belongs  to  the  French, — 
their  only  possession  on  the  W.  coast. 

Mah^  is  finely  situated  on  high 
ground  overlooking  the  river,  the  en- 
trance of  which  IS  closed  by  rocks. 
Only  small  craft  can  pass  the  bar  in 
safety,  and  that  only  m  fair  weather  ; 
but  the  river  is  navigable  for  boats  to 
a  considerable  distance  inland.  On  a 
high  hill  some  way  off  is  seen  the  Ger- 
man Mission  House  of  the  Basel  Mis- 
sionaries at  Ohombala.  From  this  hill 
there  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  wooded 
mountains  of  Wynaad,     Th#  French 


settlement  at  Mah^  dates  from  1722, 
but  it  was  taken  by  the  English  under 
Major  Hector  Munro  in  1761.  The 
Peace  of  Paris,  in  1763,  gave  it  back  to 
the  French,  but  it  was  retaken  by  the 
English  in  1779,  and  in  1793  the  British 
establishment  at  Tellicherry  moved  to 
Mahe  ;  but  the  place  being  restored  to 
the  French  in  1815,  the  English  officials 
returned  to  Tellicherry.  Mah^  pos- 
sesses all  the  institutions  of  a  repubhc — 
manhood  suf&age,  vote  by  ballot,  muni- 
cipal and  local  councils,  representation 
at  the  ConseU-O^n&raly  which  sits  at 
Pondicherry,  and  in  the  chambers  in 
France  by  a  senator  and  a  deputy, 
who  in  practice,  however,  are  always 
residents  in  France.  The  Adminis- 
trateur  is  appointed  from  home.  He 
represents  the  central,  and  the  Maire 
the  local  Ctovemment. 

536  m.  Calient  sta.  ^  The  terminuF 
of  the  S.W.  branch  of  the  Madras 
Railway.  Pop.  1881,  57,000;  1891, 
66,000.  Good  D.B.,  also  two  hotels. 
Anchorage  2  m.  from  shore.  Boats  2) 
rs.  each. 

Buchanan  (vol.  ii.  p.  474)  says : 
'*The  proper  name  of  this  place  is 
Colicodtc  When  Cheruman  Perumal 
had  divided  Malabar  among  his  nobles, 
and  had  no  principality  remaining  to 
bestow  on  the  ancestor  of  the  Tamuri^ 
he  gave  that  chief  his  sword,  with  all 
the  territory  in  which  a  cock  crowing 
at  a  small  temple  here  could  be  heard. 
This  formed  the  original  dominions  of 
the  Tamuri,  and  was  called  Colicudu, 
' or  the  cock-crowing."  The  native  town 
is  but  little  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
There  is  a  long  bazaar  with  numerous 
small  cross  streets  leading  from  it  To 
the  S.  stretching  to  the  right,  is  the 
Mapilah  quarter,  where  are  many 
mosques.  At  West  Hill  there  are 
barracks  for  a  small  detachment  of 
British  troops  kept  there  to  overawe 
the  turbulent  Mapilahs  (see  below). 
On  the  N.W.  is  the  Portuguese  quarter, 
with  a  R.C.  Church  and  a  large  tank  ; 
also  the  Collector's  Cutcherry.  The 
jail  is  also  in  the  Portuguese  quarter. 
To  the  N.  of  the  jail  is  the  old  burial- 
ground,  which  is  close  to  the  pier. 
Here  is  interred  Henry  Valentine 
Conolly,  collector  and  magistrate  of 

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368 


ItOtTTE  28.       fiOMBAT  TO  COLOMBO 


tnitA 


Malabar,  who  was  txmrdered  on  the  1 1th 
September  1855.  There  was  a  dispute 
anumg  the  Mapilah  (Moplas)  respectiDg 
some  land,  and  some  of  these  fonatics 
resolved  to  sacrifice  the  man  wht>  had 
decided  affainst  them.  A  band  of  these 
assassins  burst  in  upon  him  and  stabbed 
him  to  death.  They  then  went  off  to 
Mallapuram,  the  heieulquarters  of  this 
turbulent  sect.  An  express  was  sent 
off  to  the  trooi«  at  Cannannore,  and 
they  were  in  Calicut  next  day.  They 
then  proceeded  to  Mallapuram,  where 
the  Sepoys  were  repulsed  by  the 
Mapihihs,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
bring  down  European  soldiers.  The 
resistance  of  the  rebels  was  then 
speedily  overcome.  Mr.  H.  V.  Conolly 
was  brother  of  Arthur  Conolly  who 
perished  at  Bukhara,  The  oldest  in- 
scription that  can  now  be  read  is  to 
Richard  Harrison,  who  died  on  the 
14th  April  1717.  Facing  the  sea  are 
the  houses  of  the  European  gentry  and 
the  custom  house,  ana  also  the  club. 
There  is  a  great  appearance  of  neatness 
and  comfort  in  the  houses  even  of  the 
very  poor  about  this  locality.  The 
cantonment  and  the  collector's  resi- 
dence are  2  m.  N.  of  the  town,  on  a 
hiU. 

At  Calicut,  on  the  11th  of  May 
1498,  arrived  the  adventurous  Vasco 
da  Gama,  ten  months  and  two  days 
after  his  departure  &om  Lisbon.  It 
then  contained  many  noble  buildings, 
especially  a  Brahman  temple  said  to 
have  been  not  inferior  to  the  greatest 
monastery  in  PortugaL  The  native 
Rajah,  the  Tamurin,  was  called  Zamor- 
in  by  European  writers.  This  prince 
once  ruled  over  an  extensive  territory, 
but  his  successors  are  now  stipendiaries 
of  the  English  Qovemment.  In  1509 
the  Maredid  of  Portugal,  Don  Fer- 
nando Coutinho,  made  an  attack  on 
Calicut  with  3000  men,  but  was  him- 
self slain  and  his  forces  repulsed  with 
great  loss.  In  1510  Albuquerque 
mnded,  burnt  the  town,  and  plundered 
the  palace,  but  was  eventually  put  to 
fl^ht,  and  was  obliged  to  sail  away 
with  great  loss.  In  1513  the  Rajah 
concluded  a  peace  with  the  Portuguese, 
and  permitted  them  to  build  a  fortified 
factory.     In  1616  an  English  factoiy 


{was  established  at  Calicut.  In  1696 
Captain  Kidd  the  pirate  ravaged  the 
port.  In  1766  Hyder  'Ali  invaded 
the  country,  and  &e  Rajah,  finding 
that  his  offers  of  submission  would  he 
in  vain,  barricaded  himself  in  his 
palace,  and  setting  fire  to  it,  perished 
m  the  flames.  Hyder  was  soon  caUed 
off  to  the  war  m  Aroot,  and  the 
territory  of  the  Rajah  of  Calicut  re- 
volted, but  was  re-conquered  in  1778 
by  Mysore.  In  1782  the  victors  were 
expelled  by  the  English,  and  in  1789 
Tipu  again  overran  the  country,  and 
laid  it  waste  with  fire  and  sword. 
Many  women  were  hanged  with  thdr 
infants  round  their  necks  ;  others  were 
trampled  under  the  feet  of  elephants. 
The  cocoa-nut  and  sandal  trees  were 
cut  down,  and  the  plantations  of 
pepper  were  torn  up  hj  the  roots.  The 
town  was  almost  entirely  demolished, 
and  the  materials  carried  to  NeUort, 
6  m.  to  the  S.E.,  to  build  a  fort  and 
town  called  Farrukhoibady  *' Fortunate 
CSty."  The  next  year,  however,  Tipu's 
general  was  totally  defeated  and  tabken 
prisoner  with  900  of  his  men  by  the 
British,  who  captured  the  so-called 
"Fortunate  City";  and  in  1792  the 
whole  territory  was  ceded  to  the 
English  Government.  Since  that  time 
the  coimtry  has  gradually  recovered 
itself.  It  IS  said  that  two  pillars  of 
the  old  palace  in  which  Da  Grama  was 
received  still  remain,  as  well  as  a  portico 
and  some  traces  of  a  terrace,  and 
houses  for  Brahmans.  It  is  said  the 
Portuguese  leader  knelt  down  on  his 
way  to  some  Hindu  idols,  taking  them 
for  distorted  images  of  Catholic  saints. 
"Perhaps  they  may  be  devils,"  said 
one  of  the  sailors.  ' '  Ko  matter, "  said 
another,  "I  kneel  before  them  and 
worship  the  true  God."  The  noble 
avenue  which  leads  to  the  ruins  of  the 
old  palace  leads  also  to  the  new»  which 
is  a  low  tasteless  bmlding.  The  Frendi 
have  still  a  lodge  at  Csdicut,  in  which 
is  one  solitarv  watchman.  Cotton 
cloth,  originally  imported  from  this 
town,  derives  from  it  its  name  of  calico. 
Bvypvai  near  the  mouth  of  the  Bey- 
pur  river,  6  m.  S.  of  Calicut,  was 
formerly  the  terminus  of  the  Madias 
BaUway  on  the  west  coast,  and  paa* 

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ROUTE  28.      NARAKAX — COCHIN 


369 


lengers  had  to  cross  a  wide  estuair  b^ 
)oat  and  then  travel  by  road  to  Call- 
mi  ;  but  in  1890  the  line  was  diverted 
lome  miles  N.  of  Beypur,  and  extended 
4}  Calioiit,  and  Beypur  abandoned  as  a 
ailway  station,  llie  Portnguese  estab- 
ished  a  factory  (Kalyan)  here,  bnt  it 
ailed.  Tipu  selected  it  as  the  site  of 
he  capital  of  Malabar,  but  hardly  a 
restige  of  its  short-lived  importance 
las  survived.  In  1797  sawmills,  in 
L805  a  canvas  ffiotory,  in  1848  iron- 
works, and  still  later,  ship -building 
vorks  wore  started  at  Bcypm*,  bnt  all 
rom  one  cause  or  another  navo  failed. 
Iron  oro  and  a  sort  of  lignite  both 
ixist  in  the  immediate  vicinitv.  The 
beak  sprown  on  the  ghats  to  the  E.  is 
boated  down  to  Beypur  for  exportation. 
A.  few  miles  from  tne  town  lies  the  site 
of  Ferokh  ("Tipu's  City"),  and  6  m.  E. 
is  Cfhataparamba  ("Field  of  Death"), 
remarkable  for  its  ancient  stone  circles 
and  monuments  (see  Trcms,  LiTk  Soc. 
Bombay,  vol.  iii.  p.  824),  resembling 
the  croinleohs  of  Salem  and  Ooimbatore, 
and  called  by  the  natives  kudei-ktUlu, 
or  "umbrella  stones." 

627  m.  Narakal.  Anchorage  S  m. 
from  the  shore.  Boat  hire  IJ  r.  each 
boat.  The  handbook  of  the  British 
India  Steam  Navigation  Company  says : 
"This  port,  which  is  6  m.  N.  of  Cochin, 
is  not  affected  by  the  S.W.  monsoon, 
and  is  therefore  a  regular  port  of  call 
during  that  season,  when  passengers 
who  land  there  can  proceed  by  back- 
water to  stations  on  the  Madras  Rail- 
way." The  place  owes  its  advantages 
to  a  bank  which  stretches  about  2^  m. 
seaward,  and  is  4  m.  long.  Within 
this  vessels  can  run  in  the  worst  of  the 
S.W.  monsoon  when  all  other  ports  on 
the  coast  are  closed. 

687 m.  Cocibia(KzuihibandcMr).:i^  D.B. 
fair.  Anchorage  1^  m.  from  the  shore. 
Boat  hire  IJ  r.  per  boat  two  persons. 
Pop.  16,000.  Weekly  steamer  to 
Colombo.  It  belongs  to  the  English, 
though  it  gives  name  to  a  small  native 
principality  extending  over  the  adjacent 
territoiT,  and  was  formerly  the  capital 
of  the  Baja.  The  Resident  of  Travan- 
core  itf  also  Resident  of  Cochin,  and 
[India] 


there  is  an  Anglican  bishop  for  both 
places. 

The  town  is  situate  at  the  N.  extrem- 
ity of  a  spit  of  land  about  12  m.  long, 
and  1  m.  to  IJ  m.  wide.  It  is  almost 
insulated  by  inlets  of  sea  and  estuaries 
of  streams  flowing  from  the  W.  ghats. 
Indeed,  the  backwater  is  of  such  extent 
as  to  be  of  paramount  importance  to 
the  place,  and  to  supply  in  a  great 
degree  the  place  of  a  harbour.  This 
backwater  extends  S.  nearly  to  Eayan 
Kulam,  and  K.  about  40  m.  to  Chaitwa. 
E.  it  has  several  branches,  and  W.  it 
communicates  with  the  sea  by  three 
estuaries,  at  Chaitwa,  Cranganore,  and 
Cochin.  It  is  very  shallow  in  many 
places,  more  particularly  in  the  K.  part 
of  the  Chaitwa  branch,  but  between 
the  inlets  at  Cranganore  and  Cochin, 
and  Cochin  and  Alapalli,  it  is  at  all  times 
navigable,  both  for  passage  and  cargo 
boats.  It  shoals,  however,  from  Alapalli 
to  the  bar  of  Ivika  near  Kayan  Kulam. 
During  the  rains  every  part  is  navig- 
able, flat-bottomed  boats  or  canoes  being 
employed.  The  backwater  is  affected 
by  the  tides,  which  rise  about  2  ft.,  and 
flow  at  the  rate  of  2}  m.  an  hour. 
Cochin  is  the  only^  port  S.  of  Bombay 
in  which  large  ships  can  be  built.  In 
1820-21  three  frigates  were  built  here 
for  the  Royal  Navy.  Smaller  vessels 
for  the  Indian  Navy  have  likewise  been 
built,  and  some  merchant  ships. 

In  1600  the  Portuguese  aaventurer 
Cabral,  after  having  cannonaded  Cali- 
cut, landed  at  Cochin  and  met  with  a 
friendly  reception  from  the  Raja,  a 
reluctant  vassal  of  the  Zamorin. 
Cabral  returned  to  Portugal  with  a 
cargo  of  pepper,  and  was  followed  by 
Inan  da  Nova  Castelho.  In  1502 
Yasco  da  Gkuna  on  his  second  voyage 
came  to  Cochin,  and  established  a 
factory.  In  1503  Albuquerque,  the 
Portuguese  admiral,  arrived  just  in 
time  to  succour  the  Cochin  Raja,  who 
was  besieged  by  the  Zamorin  in  the 
island  of  Vypin.  He  built  the  Cochin 
fort,  called  "Mannel  Eolati,"  the  first 
European  fort  in  India,  just  five  years 
after  Da  Gama  had  arrived  on  the 
Malabar  coast.  Albuquerque  returned 
to  Portugal,  leaving  Cochin  guarded  by 
only  a  few  hundred  men  under  Duarte 

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370 


BOUTE : 


BOMBAY  TO  COLOMBO 


Indw 


FlAcheoo,  when  the  Zuaodn  with  a  large 
host  invaded  the  country  bv  land  and 
sea.  Pacheoo  with  his  brave  band  of  400 
men  firmljr  resisted  all  the  attacks  of 
the  Zamorin,  and  at  last  forced  him  to 
retreat  to  Calicut.  In  1505  Francisco 
Almeyda,  the  first  Portuguese  viceroy  of 
India,  came  to  Ck>chin  with  a  large 
fleet,  and  was  in  1510  succeeded  by 
Albuquerque.  On  Christmas  Day  1524 
Da  Gama  died  here,  and  was  buried, 
according  to  Correa,  whose  narrative  is 
the  most  trustworthy,  in  the  principal 
chapel  of  the  Franciscan  monastery, 
now  used  as  the  English  church.  Euis 
body  was  afterwards  (1588)  removed  to 
Portugal.  In  1530  St.  Fnmcis  Xavier, 
the  apostle  of  the  Indies,  preached  in 
these  parts  and  made  many  converts. 
In  1557  the  church  of  Santa  Cruz  was 
consecrated  as  the  cathedral  of  a  bishop. 
In  1577  the  Society  of  Jesus  published 
at  Cochin  the  first  book  printed  in 
India.  In  1585  Cochin  appears  to 
have  been  visited  by  the  English 
traveller  Ralph  Fitch,  with  his  band 
of  adventurers.  In  1616  the  English, 
under  Keeling,  en|piged  to  assist  the 
Zamorin  in  attacking  Cochin,  on  an 
understanding  that  an  English  factory 
was  to  be  established  t^re.  These 
relations  were,  however,  broken  off,  and 
the  factory  was  built  some  years  later 
with  the  consent  of  the  Portuguese. 
In  1668  the  town  and  fort  were  cap- 
tured from  the  Portuguese  by  the 
Dutch,  uid  the  English  retired  to 
Ponani.  The  Dutch  ffreatly  improved 
the  place  and  its  traae,  building  sub- 
stantial houses  after  the  European 
fashion,  and  erecting  quays,  etc.  In 
1776  the  State  of  Cocmn  was  subiusated 
by  Hyder.  In  1792  Tipu  ceded  the 
sovereignty  to  the  British.  In  1796 
it  was  taken  by  the  British  from  the 
Dutch,  and  in  1806,  or,  according  to 
another  account,  in  1814,  the  fartmca- 
tions  were,  by  command  of  Government, 
blown  up  with  gunpowder.  The  explo- 
sion threw  down  or  shattered  all  the 
best  houses,  and  most  of  the  Dutch 
families  who  could  aflford  it  left. 

Cochin  is  remarkable  as  the  resi- 
dence of  the  hUick  and  the  white  JewSt 
who  inhabit  the  suburbs  of  Ealvati 
and  Mottancheri,  which  extend  about  J 


m.  along  the  backwater  to  the  S.E< 
of  the  town.  In  Mottancheri  there  U 
a  large  but  not  v^handsome  Kota/ramj 
or  puace,  of  the  Ki^  and  blose  to  itia 
the  synagpgne  of  the  white  Jews,  or 
Jews  of  Jerusalem,  who  are  said  U 
have  arrived  in  India  at  a  much  man 
recent  date  than  the  black  Jews,  whose 
residence  dates  from  time  immem<aial 
The  white  Jews  inhabit  the  upper  put 
of  Jews'  Town,  i^e  black  Jews  the  lover 
part  There  are  also  a  great  number 
of  black  Jews  in  the  interior,  their 
principal  towns  being  Iritnr,  Paror, 
Chenotta,  and  Maleb.  Th^e  is  cTeiy 
reason  for  believing  that  the  black  Jevs 
were  established  at  Cran^ranore  in  the 
dd  or  4th  century  a.d.  ^nbiey  possees 
a  copper  grant  from  the  Brahman 
Prince  of  l£ilabar,  conferring  the  sud 
place  upon  them,  and  dated  888  A.D., 
or,  acocnxlin^  to  Hamilton,  490.  People 
here  are  suoiect  to  cutaneons  diaeaaes^ 
and  especiallv  elephantiasis^  which  it 
sometimes  called  the  Cochin  lee. 

There  is  an  interesting  sect  of  Chm- 
tians  in  Cochin  state  and  elaewlMre 
on  the  Malabar  coast,  especially  at 
Eottayam— the  Nasarani.  Tliey  ire 
often  termed  Nestoiiana,  though  tliej 
themselves  do  not  accept  the  naae. 
They  ascribe  their  convernon  to  the 
preachinff  of  St.  Thomas,  and  until  the 
arrival  oi  the  Portuguese  they  were  i 
imited  church,  holdmg  a  sim]^  foith. 
About  860  they  were  joined  by  i 
colony  of  Syrian  Christians,  who  are 
said  to  have  landed  at  Malabar ;  and  in 
the  9th  and  10th  centuries  more  eame 
from  Bagdad,  Nineveh,  and  Jerusakin. 
As  early  as  the  9th  centoi^  th^  were 
high  in  favour  with  the  Raja  of  Iravan- 1 
core.  Eventually  they  became  inde-' 
pendent  and  elected  a  sovereign  o^j 
their  own;  and  though  subaequently I 
they  had  to  acknowledge  the  supremacy 
of  the  Cochin  Baja»  they  still  preserved 
many  of  their  i^ivileges. 

The  Portuguese,  under  Oardin 
Ximenes  and  tneir  6oa  Yioeroys,  ttu 
to  bring  them  into  the  fold  of  Bom 
and  to  extirpate  the  Jacobite  hoesj 
which  naturally  took  firm  root  i 
a  community  recruited  from  ti 
neighbourhood  of  Persia  and  Totkii 
Arabia.     The  Dutch  put  an  end  t 

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ROUTE  29.       MADRAS   TO   BANGALORE   AND   MTSORE 


371 


;Ms  persecution,  and  supported  the 
5yiian  Christians,  who  in  1663  sent 
;o  Antioch  for  a  bishop.  He,  on  his 
imval,  was  put  to  death  by  the  Portu- 
gese. When  the  rule  of  the  Portuguese 
»ased  they  were  left  with  a  divided 
Church.  From  that  date  to  the  be- 
?iiming  of  the  present  century  the 
!)harch,  by  '*  schisms  rent  asunder/' 
vas  administered  partly  by  native 
)ishops  and  partly  by  oishops  from 
$yria ;  and  to  this  day  there  are  two 
nshops  amongst  them,  one,  Mar  Diony- 
lius,  who  heads  the  non- reformers, 
ind  another,  Mar  Athanasius,  of  the 
larty  of  reform.  The  Syrian  Jacobites  ^ 
lumber  some  300,000  in  all,  and  hold 
nost  tenaciously  to  diflferences  of 
loctrine,  such  aa  divided  the  early 
Christian  Church,  and  such  as  nowadays 
ixcite  a  merely  academical  interest, 
^ides  these  there  are  the  Syrian 
^man  Catholics,  descendants  of  those 
brcibly  converted  by  the  Portuguese. 
They  are  a  peaceful  and  well-ordered 
)eople,  on  good  terms  with  the  Govern- 
nent,  be  it  British  or  native,  on  the 
:oast,  and  they  retain,  in  their  internal 
iconomy,  many  interesting  forms  and 
ceremonies  relating  to  the  time  when 
:hey  were  governed  by  a  king,  who 
vas  recognised  as  siich  by  the  native 
(ings  of  the  coast 

769  m.  Koladiel,  D.B.  A  very 
iDcient  port,  again  rising  into  some 
mportance,  in  the  Travancore  state  in 
he  extreme  south  of  India.  It  is  prob- 
ably the  Kolias  of  Strabo.  Some 
lenturies  ago  it  was  occupied  by  the 
Danes. 

875  m.  Tuticozin  sta.,^  D.B.,  ter- 
nioosofS.  Indian  Rly.,  443  m.  from 
Madras  by  rail.  A  municipal  and 
'oinmereial  town,  exporting  large 
[oantities  of  cotton,  coffee,  corn,  cattle, 
tc  ;  pop.  27,000.  The  anchorage  is 
im.  from  the  shore.  Passengers  are 
onv^ed  to  and  from  the  steamers  of 
he  Brit  Ind.  S.  N.  Co.  in  their 
team-launch.    Fare  2  rs.  each.    There 

1  For  the  oldest  Christian  inscriptions  of 
he  Nestorians,  at  St.  Thom6  and  Kottayam 
[)  the  same  characters  as  those  found  on  the 
iuiious  Si-gnan-fu  in  N.  China—see  Dr. 
Jeorge  Smith's  Conversion  of  India,  chap.  ii. 


is  a  daily  steamer  hence  to  Colombo, 
in  connection  with  the  South  Indian 
Railway  from  Madras. 

The  place  was  famous  for  its  pearl- 
fishery,  which  extended  from  Cape 
Comorin  to  the  Pamban  Channel. 
Csesar  Frederick,  who  visited  India 
1563-81,  tells  us  that  the  fishing  begins 
in  March  or  April,  and  lasts  fifty  days. 
It  is  never  in  the  same  spot  during  two 
consecutive  years ;  but  when  the 
season  approaches,  good  divers  are 
sent  to  examine  where  the  greatest 
number  of  ovsters  are  to  be  found,  and 
when  they  have  settled  that  point,  a 
village  is  built  of  stone  opposite  to  it, 
should  there  have  been  no  village  there 
previously,  and  an  influx  of  people  and 
of  the  necessaries  of  life  follows.  The 
fishers  and  divers  are  mostly  native 
Christians.  Owing  to  he  deepening  of 
the  Pamban  Channel,  these  banks  no 
longer  produce  the  pearl-oysters  in 
such  remunerative  quantities,  but 
chank  shells  are  still  found  and  ex- 
ported to  Bengal.  The  pearl  fisheries 
are  carried  on  at  intervals  of  a  few 
years,  under  Government  supervision. 

The  S.P.O.  have  a  Misson-house 
here,  and  a  Training  School. 

Small  schooners  sail  from  Tuticorin 
to  Paumben  opposite  the  famous  island 
of  Rameswaram  (see  p.  400) ;  but  the 
more  usual  route  is  from  Negapatam 
(see  p.  400). 


ROUTE  29 

Madras  to  Bangalore  and  Mysore 

Madras  to,  42  m.,  Arkonam  June.  sta. 
(See  p.  335.) 

65  m.  Arcot  sta.  mentioned  by 
Ptolemy.  The  town  is  5  m.  S.  of  the 
railway  station  and  across  the  Palar 
river  Banipet,  the  civil  station  and 
residence  of  the  Europeans,  is  3.  m. 
from  the  railway  before  the  river  is 
crossed.     The  place  has  ceased  to  be  a 

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ROUTE  29.   MADRAS  TO  BANGALORE  AND  MTSORB 


India 


military    station.    There   is   a   large 
sugar  factory  and  distillery. 

On  approaohing  the  town  a  small 
pagoda  IS  reached  and  portions  of  the 
town-wall,  which  was  a  massive  stmc- 
ture  of  red  brick.  It  was  blown  np 
with  gunpowder,  but  the  foundations 
remain,  and  huge  fragments  are  seen 
solid  as  rocks.  Continuing  the  same 
course  along  the  bank  of  the  Palar, 
after  i  m.  the  Delhi  Gate  is  reached, 
which  is  the  only  one  that  remains 
so  far  unii^'ured  that  it  is  possible 
to  form  an  idea  of  what  the  fortifica- 
tion was.  Above  the  gate  is  Clive's 
room.  Much  of  the  moat  is  now  used 
for  ^wing  rice.  Returning  to  the 
Delhi  Gate,  take  a  road  which  leads 
S.  from  it  into  the  heart  of  the  old 
town.  After  J  m.  the  Taluk  ChUcherry 
is  reached,  a  pretty  building  erected  in 
1874.  After  passing  this  building,  turn 
to  the  £.  and  cross  a  very  broad  moat, 
which  surrounded  the  citadel,  and  isnow 
dry,  with  trees  growing  in  it.  Here  are 
two  small  tanks,  which  once  had  foun- 
tains  in  the  centre.  The  water  was  raised 
into  them  by  wheels  turned  by  ele- 
phants. The  water  for  the  tanks  was 
Drought  from  a  large  reservoir  near  the 
Nawab's  palace.  Near  this  is  the  MaJc" 
harahf  or  Tomb  of  8a*adatu*Udh  Khan, 
In  the  same  enclosure  is  the  Jtmma 
Mu^id,  The  tomb  has  a  stone  inserted 
over  the  door  with  an  inscription,  which 
says  that  the  Nawab  died  1733  A.D. 

W.  of  the  Jumma  Musjid  is  theruined 
Palace  of  the  Nwwdbs  of  the  Camatic^ 
on  a  mount  overlooking  the  large  lake 
called  the  Nawab's  Tank.  The  walls 
of  the  durbar-room  are  stUl  standing. 

Ssposite  is  the  Kali  Mu^id,  or  Bla^ 
bsoue,  and  near  the  palace  is  the  tomb 
of  a  Mohammedan  ascetic,  Shah  Ehizr 
Langotbund,  with  a  rather  handsome 
dome.  To  the  W.  is  the  mosque  of 
Fakir  Muhammad.  Near  it  is  a  tomb, 
apparently  imfinished,  in  which  was 
laid  the  body  of  the  Nizam  Nasir  Jang, 
murdered  by  the  Nawab  of  Kadapa  on 
5th  December  1760.  It  was  shortly 
afterwards  removed  to  Hyderabad. 
Just  across  the  road  is  the  tomb  of 
Tiim  Auliya,  or  Saint  Tipu,  of  brick, 
whitewashed.  In  the  W.  wall  is  a 
stone  with  an  inscription,  which  says 


that  Sa'adatu*llah  Ehan  erected  this 
tomb  for  Tipu,  who  was  a  man  of  God. 
Whether  lipu  Sultan,  got  his  name 
from  this  saint,  or,  as  Wflks  says,  from 
a  word  signifying  "tiger,"  is  doubtful 

History. 

Arcot  derives  its  name  from  An- 
kadu,  "six  forests,"  where  six  Bidiis, 
or  holy  men,  dwelt.  Adondai,  who 
conquered  Tondamandalam  in  HOC 
A.D.,  drove  out  the  aborigines  from 
these  forests,  and  built  various  temples 
there.  These  went  to  ruin,  and  the 
place  again  became  desolate,  till  Hindus 
came  from  Penukonda  and  built  a  fort 
there.  Zu'l&kar  Ehan,  Anrangzib's 
general,  took  Gingi  in  1698  A.D.,  aod 
made  Daud  Elhan  Governor  of  Arcot, 
underwhich  district  Gingi  was  included. 
This  officer  colonised  the  county  with 
Mohammedans.  Until  1712  the  Moham- 
medan governors  resided  at  Gingi,  when 
Sa'adal^'Uah  Ehan,  who  first  took  the 
title  of  Nawab  of  the  Cumatic,  made 
Arcot  his  capital  Arcot,  however,  is 
chiefly  known  to  us  for  the  glorious 
capture  and  defence  of  it  by  Gapt.  dive, 
who  here  laid  the  founaation  of  his 
creat  celebrity.  When  the  Fr^ich  and 
Ghanda  Sahib  besieged  Trichinopoly 
in  1751,  Glive  led  an  expedition  agunst 
Arcot  in  order  to  divest  a  part  of  the 
enemy  from  the  siesn,  Glive  had  with 
him  only  200  English,  with  8  ofiicers, 
6  of  whom  had  never  before  been  in 
action ;  he  had  also  800  Sepoys  and  3 
field-pieces.  With  this  small  force  he 
left  Madras  on  the  26th  of  August,  and 
arrived  at  Gonleveram  on  uie  29tlL 
Here  he  learned  that  the  garrison  of 
Arcot  amounted  to  1100  men.  On  the 
31st  he  arrived  within  10  m.  of  Arcot, 
and  marched  on  through  a  tremendous 
storm  of  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain. 
The  enemies'  spies  r^rted  the  aon^ 
froid  with  whlcn  the  Knglish  advanced 
under  such  circumstances,  and  this 
made  such  an  impression  on  the  garri- 
son that  they  abandoned  the  fort.  On 
the  4th  of  September  GHve  marched 
out  against  the  garrison,  who  had  takes 
up  a  position  at  Timeri,  a  fort  6  m.  S. 
of  Arcot.  The  enemy  retreated  to  the 
hills,  and  the  Englisn  returned  to  H 
fort,  but  marchod  out  again  a  secoi 

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time  on  the  6tli,  and  drove  the  enemy 
firom  a  tank  near  Timeri,  where  they 
had  ensconced  themselves.    After  ten 
days  tlie  enemy,  who  by  reinforcements 
had   grown  to  3000  men,   encamped 
within  3  m.  of  Arcot,  where  they  were 
attacked  at  2  A.M.  on  the  14th  of  Sep- 
tember by  Clive,  and  utterly  routed. 
Two    18-pomiders    despatched    from 
Madias  had  now  nearly  reached  Glive, 
who  sent  out  all  the  men  he  had,  ex- 
cept 30  Europeans  and  50  BepoySf  to 
brin^  tbem  in.    During  liiis  emergency 
the  enemy  attacked  Arcot,  but  were 
signally  repulsed.     Ghanda  Sahib  now 
sent     4000    men    from    Trichinojwly 
under  bis  son  Raja  Sahib,  who  entered 
the  town  of  Arcot  on  the  23d  of  Sep- 
tember.   On  the  24th  Olive  sallied  from 
the   citadel,   and  fought  a  desperate 
battle  with  Raja  SahiVs  force.    On  the 
25th  Mnrtaza  'Ali  brought  2000  men 
from  Vellore  to  join  Raja  Sahib.  Olive's 
situation    now    appeared    desperate : 
"Tlie  fort  was  more  than  1  m.  in  cir- 
cumference "  (Orme,  book  iii.  p.  198) ; 
"the  walk  were  in  many  places  ruin- 
ous ;  the  rampart  too  narrow  to  admit 
the  firing  of  artillery  ;  the  parapet  low 
and  slightly  built ;  several  of  the  towers 
were  decayed,  and  none  of  them  capable 
of  receivmg  more  than  one  piece  of 
cannon ;  the  ditch  was  in  most  places 
fordable,  in  others  dry,  and  in  some 
choked  up ;  there  was  oetween  the  foot 
of  the  walls  and  the  ditch  a  space  about 
10  ft.  broad,  intended  for  a  fausse-braye, 
but  this  had  no  parapet  at  the  scarp  of 
the  ditch.     The  fort  had  two  gates, 
one  to  the  N.W.,  the  other  to  the  E., 
both    of  which   were   large    piles   of 
masonry  projecting  40  ft.  beyond  the 
walls,  and  the  passage  from  these  gates 
was,  instead  of  a  (nawbridge,  a  large 
causeway  crossing  the  ditch.    The  gar- 
rison had  from  nieir  arrival  employed 
themselves  indefieiticably  to  remove  and 
repair  as  many  of  these  inconveniences 
and  defects  as  the  smallness  of  their 
numbers  could  attend  to.    They  had 
endeavoured  to  bum  down  several  of 
the  nearest  houses,  but  without  success ; 
for  these  having  no  woodwork  in  their 
construction,    excepting    the    beams 
which  supported  the  ceiling,  resisted 
the  blaze.    Of  these  houses  the  enemy's 


infantry  took  possession,  and  began  to 
fire  upon  the  ramparts,  and  wounded 
several  of  the  garrison  before  ni^t, 
when  they  retired.  At  midnight  En- 
sign Glass  was  sent  with  10  men  and 
some  barrels  of  gunpowder  to  blow  up 
two  of  the  houses  which  most  annoyed 
the  fort.  This  party  were  let  down 
by  ropes  over  "ttie  walls,  and  entering 
the  houses  without  being  discovered, 
made  the  explosion,  but  with  so  little 
skill  that  it  did  not  produce  the  in- 
tended effect ;  at  their  return  the  rope 
by  which  Ensign  Glass  was  getting  into 
the  fort  broke,  and  he  was  by  the  fall 
rendered  incapable  of  further  duty  ;  so 
that,  at  the  beginning  of  the  siege,  the 
garrison  was  deprived  of  the  services 
of  4  of  the  8  officers  who  set  out  on  the 
expedition,  and  the  troops  fit  for  duty 
were  diminished  to  120  Europeans  and 
200  Sepoys ;  these  were  besieged  by 
160  Europeans,  2000  Sepoys,  3000 
cavalry,  and  600  peons." 

Macaulay  says:  "During  fifty  days 
the  siege  went  on.  During  fifty  days 
the  young  captain  maintained  the 
defence  with  a  firmness,  vigilance,  and 
ability  which  would  have  done  honoui- 
to  the  oldest  marshal  in  Europe.  The 
breach,  however,  increased  day  by  day. 
The  garrison  began  to  feel  the  pressure 
of  hunger.  Under  such  circumstances 
any  troops,  so  scantily  provided  with 
officers,  might  have  been  expected  to 
show  signs  of  insubordination ;  and 
the  danger  was  peculiarly  great  in  a 
force  composed  of  men  differmg  widely 
from  each  other  in  extraction,  colour, 
language,  manners,  and  religion.  But 
the  devotion  of  the  little  band  to  its 
chief  surpassed  anything  that  is  related 
of  the  Tenth  Legion  of  Osesar,  or  the 
Old  Guard  of  Napoleon.  The  Sepoys 
came  to  Olive,  not  to  complain  of  their 
scanty  fare,  but  to  propose  that  all  the 
grain  should  be  given  to  the  Europeans, 
who  required  more  nourishment  than 
the  natives  of  Asia.  The  thin  gruel, 
they  said,  which  was  strained  away 
from  the  rice,  would  suffice  for  them- 
selves. History  contains  no  more 
touching  instance  of  military  fidelity, 
or  of  the  influence  of  a  commanding 
mind." 

It  was  now  that  the  gallantry  of 

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374 


Rou!rfi  29.     Madras  to  BANOAtoftE  and  inrsotiiB 


Indda 


Olive's  defence  so  impressed  the  Ma- 
ratha  leader,  Morari  Rao,  who  was  at 
the  head  of  6000  men,  that  he  declared 
that  he  had  till  then  never  believed 
that  Englishmen  could  fight,  but  see- 
ing their  spirit  he  was  determined  to 
help  them,  and  he  put  his  troops  in 
motion.  This  alarmed  Baja  Sahib, 
and  he  determined  to  storm  Arcot 
before  succour  could  arrive.  He  chose 
the  great  day  of  the  Muharram,  and 
Olive,  who  was  exhausted  with  fatigue, 
was  roused  by  the  shouts  of  the  enemy 
rushing  to  the  attack,  and  was  instantly 
at  his  post.  The  straggle  lasted  about 
an  hour ;  400  of  the  assailants  were 
killed,  while  the  garrison  lost  four 
Europeans  killed,  and  two  Sepoys 
wounded.  At  2  A.M.  next  morning 
the  enemy  abandoned  their  camp,  into 
which  the  garrison  marchedand brought 
off  four  guns,  four  mortars,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  ammunition.  Thus  ended 
on  the  15th  November  this  famous  siege, 
and  Olive,  being  reinforced  by  Oaptain 
Kilpatrick,  marched  out  on  the  19th 
and  took  the  fort  of  Timeri,  and  a  few 
days  after  defeated  a  force  of  300 
French,  2000  horse,  and  2600  Sepoys 
with  four  guns,  and  took  Ami  with 
R%ja  Sahib  s  treasure-chest,  and  much 


in  1758  M.  Lally  got  possession 
of  the  Fort  of  Arcot  by  bribing  the 
Indian  governor ;  but  in  1760  it  was 
recaptured  from  the  French  by  Oolonel 
Ooote.  In  1780  Hyder  'Ali,  after  his 
victory  at  Conjeveram  over  Oolonel 
BaiUie,  made  himself  master  of  Arcot, 
and  strengthened  the  fortifications,  but 
Tipu  abandoned  it  in  1783,  and  ordered 
the  wall  on  two  sides  to  be  thrown 
down;  subsequently  (1803)  it  passed 
into  the  hands  of  the  British  along 
with  the  other  possessions  of  the 
Nawabs  of  the  Oamatic. 

80  m.  Katpadi  sta.  (R.) 

[Vellore  is  4  m.  S.  of  the  rly.  sta., 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Palar  river, 
which  is  spanned  by  a  fine  brick  bridge. 
Covered  vehicles  drawn  by  ponies 
and  li^t  bullock-carts  always  meet 
the  tram.  But  there  is  now  a  line  of 
rail  from  Villupuram  to  Nellore,  with 


a  station  at  Vellore,  and  another  at 
Katpadi. 

The  Fort  of  VeUore  dates  from  the 
end  of  the  11th  century.  It  was  made 
over  to  Karsing  Baja,  of  Y^ayanagar, 
about  1600  A.D.  It  is  surrounded  by 
a  deep  ditch  200  ft.  broad.  The  first 
thing  to  be  noticed  is  a  well  about  30 
yds.  N.W.  of  the  Assistant-Collector's 
nouse.  Into  this  well  the  bodies  of 
the  Europeans  killed  in  the  mutiny  of 
1806  were  thrown.  Up  to  1874  there 
were  cannon  placed  round  this  well. 

The  principal  object  of  interest  at 
Vellore  is  the  Fugodct,  which  is  one  c( 
the  most  remarkable  in  India,  and  has 
been  restored  by  (Government.  It  is 
sacred  to  Jalagandar  Ishwara,  '*the 
god  that  dwells  in  water,"  i,e,  Shiva. 
There  are  two  dwarpals  at  the  entrance 
of  the  gopura,  of  blue  granite,  which 
when  s&nok  emit  a  singular^  metalHc 
sound.  The  figures  are  seated.  The 
door  is  very  handsome,  of  wood  studded 
with  bosses  of  iron  like  lotns  flowras. 
The  entrance  is  nndw  the  gopora,  and 
its  sides  are  lined  with  pilasters  orna- 
mented with  circular  medallions  oen- 
taining     groups     of    figures.       This 

fopura  has  seven  stories,  and  is  100  It 
igh.  It  is  quite  easy  to  ascend  to  the 
very  top.  After  passing  through  the 
gopura,  you  have  on  your  left  at  the 
distance  of  a  few  yards  a  stone  pavilioii 
called  the  KaZyan  MamdapaTtiy  exqui- 
sitely carved.  On  either  side  of  the 
steps  by  which  you  ascend  into  the 
mandapam  are  pillars,  which  are  mono- 
liths, carved  torepresentvarioosanimak 
and  monsters  (including  the  Simh,  or 
Lion  of  the  South,  rearing  up,  with  i 
round  stone  in  its  mouth),  one  above 
another  in  a  wav  which  shows  jiro- 
digious  labour  ana  great  skilL  In  the 
portico  or  ante -chamber  is  a  wonder- 
fully carved  ceiling,  with  a  centre-piece 
representingafrui^  round  which  parrots 
are  clustered  in  a  circle,  hanging  by 
their  olaws  with  their  heads  dowii 
towards  the  fruit ;  also  several  ridilr 
carved  pillars,  all  entirely  different 
from  eaon  other.  Opposite  this  man- 
dapam, in  the  £.  comer,  is  a  well  of 
pure  water.  A  corridor  runs  round  the 
enclosure,  supported  by  ninety-ooe 
pillars,  all  with  carvingson  them.  There 


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ttOUTlS  ^9.      VBLLOBt! 


376 


is  n  mandapam  at  eaok  oomer  of  the 
enclosure,  but  that  abore  described  is 
by  tai  the  most  ornamental.  In  the 
eopura  itself  is  a  dab  with  seventeen 
Unes  in  the  old  Granthi  Tamil,  which 
has  not  yet  been  deciphered.  Opposite 
the  gopura  is  a  long  low  buildmg  of 
granite,  the  blodcs  being  adjusted 
with  the  greatest  care.  In  this, 
no  donbt,  formerly  was  the  adytum, 
but  it  is  now  so  dark  thai  nothing 
can  be  seen  without  torches.  Fereus- 
son  says,  "the  great  cornice  Here 
with  its^doubie  flexures  and  its  little 
trellis -work  of  supports  is  not  only 
very  elegant  in  form,  but  one  of 
those  marvels  of  patient  industry  such 
as  are  to  be  found  hardly  anywhere 
else.  .  .  .  The  traditions  of  the  place 
assign  the  erection  of  the  Yellore  porch 
to  uie  year  1350,  and  though  this  is 
perhaps  being  too  precise,  it  is  not  far 
from  the  truth." 

Around  St.  John's  CJhurch  are  the 
mahals  which  have  been  the  residence 
of  the  family  and  descendants  of  Tiju 
since  1802.  There  is  a  fine  tank,  m 
dee^ning  which  the  relief  funds  in  the 
famine  of  1877  were  expended  to  the  ex- 
tent of  60, 000  rs.  The  Old  Cemetery  is  a 
little  to  the  S.E.  of  the  Fort.  In  the 
centre  of  the  enclosure  is  a  magnificent 
pipul  tree,  and  in  the  right-hand  comer 
orthe  cemetery  is  a  wafied-in  enclosure 
with  a  low  sarco|)hagns  inscribed  to 
the  memory  of  Lieutis.  Popham  and 
Eley  and  80  soldiers  of  the  69th  Begt., 
who  fell  during  the  mutiny  of  1806. 

At  the  time  of  the  mutiny,  besides 
the  69th  Eegt.,  there  were  6  companies 
of  the  1st  battalion  of  the  Ist  Kegt. 
N.I.,  and  the  2d  battalion  of  the  23d 
N.I.  in  the  Fort,  and  the  Sepoys  mus- 
tered 1600  to  the  370  English  soldiers. 
The  native  oflScers  led  the  Sepoys  to  the 
attack,  and  maintained  a  murderous 
discharge  of  musketry  on  the  European 
barracks.  Detachments  were  also  told 
off  to  shoot  the  oflRcers  as  thev  came 
out  of  their  houses.  Thus  Col.  Fan 
court  of  the  69th  who  commanded  the 
whole  garrison,  was  killed,  as  was 
Iii6nt.-(^1.  M'Eeera,  commanding  the 
28d  N.I.  18  officers  were  killed,  and 
several  English  conductors  of  ordnance 
at    their   houses.      In   the   barracks 


8^2  private  were  killed,  and  91  wounded. 
A  few  offices,  who  had  snooessfidly 
defended  themselves  in  a  house,  forced 
their  way  to  the  barracks,  and  put 
themselves  at  the  head  of  the  survivmg 
soldiers.  The  followers  of  the  state 
prisoners  h<nsted  Tipu's  flag.  The 
men  of  the  69th,  however,  fought  their 
way  to  the  flag-staff  and  pulled  it  down ; 
they  then  nu^e  their  way  to  the  third 
giteway,  which  they  opened  to  C!ol. 
Gillespie,  when  he  came  up  tnhn  Arcot 
with  a  squadron  of  the  19th  Dragoons 
and  a  troop  of  the  7th  Native  Cavalry. 
300  to  400  of  the  mutineers  were  killed 
and  many  taken  j^risoners,  and  the 
numbers  of  the  regiments  were  erased 
from  tiie  Army  Listo  (see  Mill,  voL  vii 
pp.  121,  122). 

JSiaarat  Makam^  the  tomb  of  a 
Mohammedan  saint,  is  in  a  street  of 
the  same  name  about  250  yds.  W.  of 
the  Fort.  They  expect  you  to  take  off 
your  shoes  if  you  enter  the  verandah 
of  the  makbarah,  or  tomb. 

The  tomhz  of  Tipa*8  family  are  j  m. 
to  the  W.  of  the  Fort  in  a  well-kept 
enclosure.  Rt.  of  the  entrance  is  the 
tomb  of  Padshah  Begam,  wife  of  Tipu, 
1834  A.D.  The  second  tomb  on  the 
right  is  that  of  Aftab  Elhan,  who  was 
second  instructor  to  the  ladies.  Next 
comes  a  handsome  tank,  with  stone 
embankment  and  steps.  Next  are  two 
plain  tombs  of  female  attendants,  and 
then  a  handsome  granite  pavilion  with  a 
massive  roof  supported  bv  four  pillars ; 
inside  is  a  black  marble  tomb  to  Mirsa 
Riza,  who  married  one  of  Tipu*s 
daughters.  At  the  end  of  these  is  the 
largest  building  of  all,  a  domed  mauso- 
leum 20  ft.  sq.  to  the  memory  of 
Bakhshi  Begam,  the  widow  of  Hyder 
' Ali,  1806  A.  D.  Left  of  this  is  a  mosuue 
without  any  inscription,  and  beyona  it 
scores  of  plain  gravestones  and  other 
tombs  of  members  of  Tipu's  family  and 
retinue. 

In  the  third  volume  of  Orme,  at 

E.  603,  will  be  found  a  picture  of  three 
ill-forts  near  Yellore,  and  called  by 
him  Stutarow,  Ovzarow,  and  Murtaz 
Agwr,  The  one  nearest  to  the  place, 
in  £EU3t  overlooking  it,  is  what  is  called 
Sayers'  Hill,  but  which  the  Hindus 
call  Singal  Drug ;  it  is  900  ft.  above 

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ste 


ROUTE  29.       kADllAS  TO  feANGALORE  AND  MYSORE! 


India 


the  level  of  Vellore*  The  sides  ^e 
covered  with  boulders  and  loose  stones, 
and  the  ascent  is  very  fifttiguing,  but 
may  be  accomplished  in  forty -five 
minutes.  From  the  bastion  there  is  a 
good  view  over  the  neighbouring  hill, 
which  also  has  been  fortified.  Just 
below  the  hill  is  the  Fort,  and  two 
fine  tanks,  while  2^  m.  off  are  the 
police  lines  and  the  Central  Jail,  which 


219  m.  BANGALORE  City  junc.  sta.  y^ 
Hence  the  rly.  to  Mysore  is  continued 
S.W.,  whilst  the  line  through  Hubli 
to  Poona  runs  N.W.,  and  through 
Guntakal  to  Poona,  N.  The  name  is 
literally,  "the  town  of  ben^u,"  a 
kind  of  bean  (pop.  180,000).  The  area 
assigned  to  Government  when  the  state 
of  Mysore  was  restored  to  the  natire 
prince  is  13^  sq.  m.     The  state  was 


Banoalobe. 


1.  Roman  Catholic  Church. 

2.  St  John's  Church. 

8.  Native  Infiintry  Lines. 
4.  St.  Andrew's  Church. 

is  noted  for  its  beautiful  carpet  and 
cloth  manufactures.] 

132  m.  Jalarpet  junc.  sta.  (R. )  Here 
the  rly.  to  Bangalore  leaves  the  main 
S.W.  branch  and  commences  the  ascent 
to  the  plateau  of  Mysore. 

176  m.  Bowringpet  sta.  [Branch,  by 
the  Kolar  Gold  Fields  State  Railway, 
to  the  gold  mines,  well  worth  a  visit.] 

216  ni.  Bangalore  Canton,  sta.  s^  (R.) 


5.  Cleveland  Town. 

6.  Maharaja's  Palace. 

7.  Mysore  CJate. 

8.  Museum. 

taken  under  British  administration  in 
1831,  and  was  restored  to  native  rule  in 
1 881.  In  the  interval  of  half  a  century 
it  has  grown  to  its  present  importance. 

The  GaTUonment  (the  largest  in  the 
S.  of  India)  and  City  of  Bangalore 
stretch  from  the  Maharaja's  palace  on 
the  N.,  6500  yds.,  to  the  S.  extremity 
of  tlie  Koramangala  Tank  on  the  S., 
and  an  equal  distance  from  the  W.  end 
of  the  Petta  on  the  W. ,  to  the  Sappers' 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


R0t1?B  29.      BANQAtOBl! 


377 


Frsotice-^und  on  the  £.  Banealore 
proper  lies  S.  of  the  Lharmambudhi 
ana  Sampangi  Tanks,  which  lie  in  the 
N.W.  and  E.  comers  of  the  Fetta  or 
town.  Beginning  with  the  canton- 
ment, and  taking  the  noticeable  things 
in  order  from  N.W.  to  S.E.,  the  first 
building  is  the  Maharaja's  Palace^ 
whioh  is  handsome,  but  only  open  to  the 
public  by  special  permission  when  the 
Mahanga  is  absent.  S.E.  of  this  860 
yds.  is  the  Railway  Station,  and  800 
yds.  S.  of  that  agam  is  MUler^s  Tamk, 
which  oommunicates  by  a  small  stream 
with  the  much  larger  ffaUur  Tank, 
1800  yds.  to  the  K  Between  these  two 
tanks  is  the  CantonrMiU  Bazaar,  and 
N.  of  it  the  iileasant  suburb  of  ClweUmd 
Town,  in  which  are  some  neat  residences 
and  Boman  GathoHc  and  Protestant 
Clmrehes,  The  Sappers'  quarters  are 
at  the  E.  comer  of  the  Baatar,  and  the 
Sepays'  Lines  at  the  S.W.,  and  a  little 
to  the  £.  of  the  latter  the  Bowring 
Giyil  Hospital,  the  London  Mission 
Chapel,  and  St  Andrew's  Kirk,  built 
in  1864.  The  Main  Quard  adjoins 
this  ohinrdi  on  the  E.  ;  and  a  few  yds. 
farther  to  the  E.  are  the  Infanttr  Bar- 
raoks,  and  still  further  to  the  IL  the 
▼illage  of  HaZswr,  and  a  pleasant  drive 
round  the  large  tank  of  the  same  name, 
with  the  Sappers'  Parade-ground  to 
the  £.  Directly  S.  of  Halsur  are  the 
Artillery  Barracks,  and  S.  again  of  them 
the  Oayalry  Barracks,  the  old  Ceme- 
tery, the  Mounted  Parade,  and  the 
Artillery  Practice-ground. 

N.W.  of  the  Artillery  Barracks  is 
Tri/Miy  Chwrch,  which  contains  a  half- 
length  statue  in  white  marble,  by  Mac- 
Dowell,  R.  A.,  to  General  Clement  Hill, 
who  served  through  the  Peninsularcam- 
paigns  under  his  brother  Lord  Hill,  and 
when  co^imanding  the  Mysore  Division 
died  on  the  20th  of  January  1845,  while 
on  a  pleasure  trip  to  the  Falls  of  Gersop- 
pa.  A  few  hun<ured  yards  W.  of  Trinity 
Church  are  the  Wesleyan  Chapel,  the 
Public  BooTM,  and  the  Qymnasivm, 
standing  in  the  General  Parade- 
ground,  which  is  more  than  1  m.  long 
from  £.  to  W.  A  little  S.  of  its  centre 
la  the  Tele^ph  Office,  and  S.E.  of 
that  again  the  Bomam,  Catholic  Cathe- 
dral,  100  yds.   S.   of  whioh   is   the 


Museum.  Close  to  the  ^.  of  these  are 
the  D.B.  and  All  Saints*  Church, 

Near  the  W.  end  of  the  Grand  Parade- 
ground,  and  adjoining  it  on  the  S.,  are 
the  General's  House,  the  Bandstand, 
and  St,  Mark*8  Chwrch,  in  which  ia  a 
tablet  to  Lieut. -CoL  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
of  Abbotsford,  and  of  the  15th  King's 
Hussars,  who  died  at  sea  in  1847,  a^ 
46.  W.  of  the  G^eral's  House,  and 
close  to  it,  is  the  Cubbon  Park,  the 
fashionable  afternoon  resort.  In  this 
is  the  Musewm,  In  the  vestibule 
remark  a  slab  with  twelve  Persian  dis- 
tiches, brought  from  Tipu's  Palace  in 
the  Fort ;  a  figure  of  a  Jain  deity  with 
very  superb  carving  round  it,  brought 
from  a  temple;  also  some  wonderful 
carvings  from  HuUabid.  In  the  larse 
room  adjoining  there  is  a  valuable  cm- 
lection  of  geological  specimens.  Up- 
stairs are  stuffea  animals,  butterflies, 
and  native  ornaments  and  dresses,  and 
a  most  remarkable  collection  of  fishes. 
W.  of  the  Museum  450  yds.  is  a  fine 
building  525  ft  long  from  N.E.  to 
S.  W.,  which  contains  the  Public  Offices, 
The  Commissioner's  House,  or  the 
Residency  as  it  is  called,  is  about  ^ 
m.  N.  of  the  Public  Offices,  and  in 
front  of  it  is  a  good  statue  of  General 
Mark  Cubbon,  uie  first  Commissioner. 

We  now  come  to  Bangalore  proper, 
which  has  an  area  of  only  2^  sq.  m. 
out  of  the  13.  The  Petta  was  until 
recent  times  surrounded  by  a  deep 
ditch  and  thom  hedge.  There  is  an 
excellent  market  between  the  Fort  and 
Mysore  Gates.  The  Brahman  quarter 
is  called  Siddi  Eatte.  The  streets  are 
somewhat  narrow  and  irregular,  but 
scattered  about  there  are  well-built 
and  imposing  mansions  belonging  to 
wealthy  inhabitants.  The  grain-market, 
TaragU'peUa,s,ndi<ia^Tx.  market,  ^ra2^- 
petta,  afford  busy  scenes  of  traffic 

The  F(yrt  is  due  S.  of  the  Petta.  It 
is  2400  ft.  from  N.  to  S.  and  1800  ft. 
from  E.  to  W.  It  could  never  have 
been  a  stroujg^  place  against  European 
troops.  It  is  of  an  oval  shape,  with 
two  gateways,  one  the  Delhi  Gate  on 
the  N.  face  opposite  the  Petta,  the 
other  the  Mysore  on  the  S.  feuie.  The 
Delhi  Gate  is  handsomely  built  of  out 
granite,  and  when  Lord  CJomwallis  on 


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ItOUtE  2d.      1CA.DRAS  !t^  BAlfTGAtiOftlB  AltD  ktSOttt! 


lliHa 


the  2l8t  of  March  1791  determined 
to  storm  the  place,  there  were  fire 
powerM  caTaliers  ( Wilks,  Hist,  Sketches 
qfihe  8.  cf  India,  voL  iii.  p.  128), 
a  fausse-braye,  ditch,  and  covered  way, 
but  in  no  part  was  there  a  perfect 
flanking  defence.  The  garrison,  how- 
ever, consisted  of  8000  men  under 
Bahadur  Khan,  and  there  were  besides 
2000  regular  infantiy  in  the  Petta,  and 
6000  irregular.  In  addition  to  all, 
Tipu  himself,  with  an  army  very  far 
superior  in  numbers  to  that  of  Com- 
wallis,  was  prepared  to  take  advantage 
of  air7  error  on  the  part  of  the  besiegers. 
The  Fetta  had  been  previously  taken  bv 
the  English  on  the  7th  of  March,  with 
a  loss  on  their  part  of  181  killed  and 
wounded.  The  Mysore  ^rrison  lost 
upwards  of  2000  men.  The  assault 
took  place  at  eleven  at  night,  and 
until  the  Eiladar  fell  a  determined 
resistance  was  made.  Tipu's  camp 
that  night  was  at  Jigni,  6  m.  to  the 
S.W.,  and  at  niffhtful  he  moved  np 
within  li  m.  of  the  Fort,  but  the 
spirit  of  the  assailants  overcame  aJl 
(uffioulties,  and  the  Fort  was  captured, 
after  a  severe  struggle,  that  same 
night 

In  the  centre  of  the  Fort  is  the 
arsenal,  and  there  are  some  remains  of 
Tipu's  Palace.  Some  restoration  has 
been  done  to  the  top  story.  There  is 
a  small  temple  near  the  Mysore  Gate. 

The  LcU  Bagh,  a  most  beautiful 
garden,  is  said  to  have  been  laid  out  in 
the  time  of  Hyder  'AIL  There  is  a 
fine  collection  of  tropical  and  sub- 
tropical plants,  and  a  laige  collection 
of  wild  animals  in  cages. 

[Nandidnig,  a  strong  hill-fort  4866  ft 
above  sea-level,  is  86  m.  N  of  Bangalore. 
It  was  thought  impregnable  by  Tipu, 
being  Inaccessible  except  from  the  w., 
and  there  stronrfy  fortified.  It  was 
taken,  however,  oy  General  Meadows 
on  the  19th  October  1791,  with  the 
loss  of  only  thirty  killed  and  wounded, 
chiefly  by  the  tremendous  masses  of 
granite  rolled  down  the  rook  on  the 
heads  of  the  assailants.  It  was  as  the 
•torming-party  formed  that  Meadows 
overheard  a  soldier  whisper  that  there 


was  a  mine.  '*  To  be  sure ! "  said  the 
Gmieral,  "there  is  a  mine,  a  mine  of 
gold ! "  The  large  house  on  the  summit 
was  a  favourite  retreat  of  Sir  Mark 
Cnbbon  in  the  hot  weather.  There 
are  many  objects  of  historicad  interest 
to  be  seen :  one  being  Tipu^s  Drop,  a 
rook  prmeoting  from  the  fbrtifieatioiis 
and  ovemanging  a  precipice  of  1000  it] 

266  m.  Maddvr  sta.  (R.)  was  formerly 
an  important  place,  but  suflfered  heaYify 
during  the  wars  with  Tipu.  There  an 
two  large  Vishnavite  temples  here, 
sacred  to  Karasim  Swami,  and  Yaradt 
Raja,  <<the  Man-Lion,"  and  *<tibB 
boon -giving  King."  A  fine  brick 
bridge  with  seven  arches,  boilt  in 
1860,  spans  the  Shimsha,  on  the  liAt 
bank  of  which  the  town  is  bnflt  The 
fort  was  taken  by  the  Mysore  general 
in  1617,  and  Hyder  rebuilt  it,  and 
it  was  dismantlea  by  Lord  Oomwallis 
in  1791. 


[Expedition  to  the  Falls  of  the 

Cauvery. 
Bv  road  17  m.  S.  is  Malvalli,  D.&, 
headquarters  of  the  Taluk  of  the  same 
name,  and  a  mnnicipal  town.  The 
Mysore-Ban|raIore  ana  Maddnr-Sivasi- 
mudram  roads  intersect  here.  Hyder 
gave  this  town  to  his  son  Tipu,  and 
the  rice -fields  near  the  tank  are  the 
site  of  a  £»rden  which  T^u  formed. 
On  the  27th  of  March  1799  1^ 
drew  np  his  army  2  m.  to  tiie  W.  of 
the  fort  and  village  of  Malvalli 
General  Harris  advanced  with  the  right 
or  principal  division  of  his  amy  n^er 
his  immediate  command,  and  tlie  left 
oolnmn  under  General  Wellesle  j.  The 
unevenness  of  the  ffrouiul  causing  an 
interval  between  the  brigades,  Tipa 
directed  a  charge  of  oavaby  against 
them,  "which  was  prepared  wiSi  de- 
liberate coolness,  and  executed  with 
great  spirit"  Many  horsen^n  fell  on 
tile  bayonets  of  the  Europeans,  bat  no 
disorder  was  caused  in  their  ranks. 
Col.  WeUesley  then  moved  to  torn  tiM 
enemy's  li^t,  when  Tipu's  infrmtiy 
advanced  in  front  of  their  guns,  and 
received  tiie  fire  of  the  S3d  regunentt 
and  the  English  artillery,  until  at  60 
yds.  frx)m  the  Europeans  they  gave  way. 


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ttOTJTE  2d.      FALtS  Ot  THfe  CAUVtiltir 


8?9 


taiA  were  immediately  charged  by  Col. 
Floyd  with  the  brigade  of  cavahy, 
which  drove  them  off  the  field  with 
the  OSS  ot  more  than  1000  men,  while 
the  En^ish  lost  but  69.  After  the 
action  Tipu  destroyed  Malvalli,  to 
prevent  its  gvingshelter  to  the  English. 
12  m.  S.  W.  of  Malvalli  is  the  village 
of  Somnathpur,  famous  for  the  tem^e 
of  Prasanna  Channa  Kesava.  This  is 
an  elaborately  carved  building  attri- 
buted to  Jakanachari,  the  famous 
sculptor  and  architect  of  the  BaUala 
kings.  Smaller  than  the  temple  at 
Hullabid,  this  temple  is  more  pleasing, 
as  the  three  pyramidal  towers  or  vim- 
anahs  over  the  fenple  shrine  are  com- 
pletely finished.  The  central  shrine  is 
that  of  Prasanna  Channa  Kesava,  that 
on  the  S.  is  sacred  to  Gopala,  and  that 
on  the  N.  to  Janardhana.  Round  the 
outer  base  are  carved  with  much  spirit 
the  princi(>al  incidents  in  the  Rama- 
yana,  the  Maha  Bharata,  and  the 
Bhagavad  6rita.  The  end  of  each 
chapter  is  indicated  by  a  closed  door, 
of  each  section  by  a  naif-closed  door. 
Around  lie  74  mutilated  statues,  which 
once  stood  on  the  basement.  There  is 
a  fine  inscription  at  the  entrance,  which 
declares  that  the  building  was  completed 
in  1270  by  Soma,  a  high  officer  of 
the  Ballala  State,  and  a  member  of 
the  royal  family.  The  vestibule  is  in 
ruins,  and  the  images  are  more  or  less 
damaged.  There  are  also  the  ruins  of 
a  large  Shivite  temple  with  inscriptions. 

From  Malvalli  by  road  12i  m.  to 
The  Falls  of  the  Cauveay  at  Sivasa- 
mudram.  The  river  has  in  Mysore  an 
average  breadth  of  from  300  to  400  yds. , 
but  from  its  confluence  with  the  Eabbani 
to  Sivasamudram  it  swells  into  a 
much  broader  stream.  The  maximum 
flood  discharge,  roughly  gauged  at 
Bannur,  is  239,000  cubic  ft.  per  second. 
The  bottom  of  the  channel  is  mostly 
composed  of  rocks,  which  increase  the 
eddies  and  foaming  of  the  waters.  A 
few  miles  after  the  stream  has  passed 
the  half-buried  city  of  Talkad,  it  turns 
northward  and  forms  an  island  8  m. 
long  and  about  2  m.  broad,  round 
which  it  sweeps  in  two  broad  streams, 
tiiat  on  the  right  or  E.  passing  within 


the  frontier  of  the  British  district  of 
Coimbatore,  while  that  on  the  left  or 
W.  separates  the  territory  of  Mysore 
from  Coimbatore.  The  island  is  called 
in  Eanarese,  Heggura,  but  is  more 
generally  known  by  its  Sanscrit  name 
ShiyaBamudram,  ''the  sea  of  Shiva." 
The  total  descent  of  the  river  from 
its  point  of  separation  at  the  S.  point 
of  ^e  island  to  its  reunion  at  the  N. 
point  is  nearly  300  ft.  The  N.,  or 
more  properly  speaking  the  W.  branch 
of  the  river  is  the  more  considerable  of 
the  two,  and  forms  a  smaller  island 
called  Ettikur,  on  either  side  of  which 
a  vast  stream  thunders  down.  Buchanan 
teUs  us  that  this  island  is  believed  to 
be  inhabited  by  a  devU,  and  adds,  "  the 
only  persons  who  defy  this  devil,  and 
the  tigers,  who  are  said  to  be  very  numer- 
ous, are  two  Mohammedan  hermits  who 
dwell  at  Gagana  Chukki.  The  Hermit' 
age  is  a  hut  open  all  round,  placed 
opposite  to  the  tomb  of  Pir  Wali." 
llie  main  island  of  Shivasamudram  is 
the  site  of  a  city  which  was  built  in 
the  beginning  of  the  16th  century 
by  Ganga  Raja,  a  kinsman  of  the 
lUja  of  V^'ayanagar.  He  is  said  to 
have  begun  building  before  the  pre- 
scribed auspicious  moment,  and  conse- 
quently his  city  was  doomed  to  last  for 
only  three  generations.  His  son  and 
successor  Nandi  Raja  committed  some 
breach  of  ceremonial,  which  he  expiated 
by  leading  into  the  cataract  at  Gagana 
Cnuklu  on  horseback,  with  his  wife 
seated  behind  him.  Tht  ruin  foretold 
fell  on  his  son  Gkmga  Raja  II.,  one  of 
whose  daughters  married  the  R%ja  of 
Eilimale,  a  place  12  m.  from  Satyagala, 
and  the  other  the  Raja  of  Nagarakere, 
3  m.  E.  of  Maddur.  These  ladies 
enraged  their  husbands  by  contrasting 
their  mean  style  of  living  with  the 
ma^ificence  of  their  father.  The  two 
Rajas  resolved  to  humble  the  pride  of 
their  wives  by  attacking  their  father's 
city,  which  they  besieg^  inefiectually 
for  twelve  years,  until  his  Dalavay,  or 
commander-in-chief,  betrayed  him,  and 
engaged  him  in  agame  of  chess  while  the 
enemy's  soldiers  were  passing  the  only 
ford.  Roused  at  last  to  his  (Singer,  the 
Raja  slew  his  women  and  children,  and 
then  rushing  into  the  battle  was  i^ain^ 


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ROUTE  29.       ICIDBAS  1?0  BAKGALORE  AK1>  MTSORfi 


India 


on  whicli  his  sons-in-law  and  their 
wives  plunged  into  the  cataract.  Jacat 
Deva^Kaja  of  Chennapatnam,  andSnri 
Ranga  Raja  of  Talkad,  then  sacked 
the  city,  and  removed  its  inhabitants. 
In  1791  Tipn,  on  the  advance  of  Lord 
Comwallis,  swept  the  adjoining  country 
of  people  and  nocks,  and  drove  them 
into  Snivasamudram.  After  this  the 
island  was  deserted,  and  became  over- 
grown with  dense  jungle  infested  with 
wild  beasts.  The  bridges  which  had 
led  to  the  town,  formed  of  huge  blocks 
of  black  stone,  some  placed  upright  as 
pillars,  and  others  laid  across  in  the 
manner  of  Egyptian  buildings,  were 
broken  and  duapidated.  However,  in 
1825  a  generous  person  named  Rama- 
swami  Mudeliar,  who  was  a  confidential 
servant  of  the  then  Resident  of  Mysore, 
carried  a  fine  double  bridge  across  the 
stream,  repaired  the  temples,  and  built 
a  D.B.  The  bridge,  or  bridges,  are 
built  of  hewn  stone  pillars,  connected 
by  stone  slabs,  built  on  the  rocky 
bed  of  the  river,  and  though  rude  are 
good  specimens  of  Indian  construction. 
In  the  rains  the  river  is  a  furious 
torrent,  impassable  except  by  the  bridge. 
About  1  m.  distant  from  Gagana 
Chukki,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  river,  is 
the  cataract  formed  by  the  S.  branch 
of  the  Cauvery,  which  is  called  Bar 
Chukki  The  height  from  which  the 
water  descends  is  about  200  ft.,  and 
in  the  rainy  season  an  unbroken  sheet 
of  water  |  m.  broad  falls  over  the 
precipice  to  that  depth  with  stunning 
roar.  In  the  dry  season  the  stream 
separates  into  sometimes  as  many  as 
fourteen  distinct  falls.  In  the  centre 
is  a  deep  recess  shaped  like  a  horse- 
shoe, down  which  the  main  stream 
plunges,  and  then,  being  confined  in  a 
narrow  channel  of  rock,  springs  forward 
with  great  velociiy,  and  falls  a  second 
time  about  30  n.  into  a  capacious 
basin  at  the  foot  of  the  precipice.  Both 
the  N.  and  the  S.  streams  after  form- 
ing these  cataracts  rush  on  through 
wild  and  narrow  gorges,  and,  reuniting 
on  the  N.E.  of  the  island,  flow  forward 
to  the  E.  The  visitor  who  can  select 
his  own  time  will  do  well  to  choose 
the  rainy  season  for  his  visit,  as  well 
on  account  of  the  greater  beauty  of  the 


scenery,  as  because  the  island  in  the 
cold  months  is  not  healthy.] 

293  m.  French  Bocks  sta.  It  is  so 
called  from  being  the  place  where  the 
French  soldiers  in  the  service  of  Hyder 
and  Tipu  were  stationed.  The  name 
of  the  place  is  properly  Hirode ;  pop. 
3000.  The  Fort,  2882  ft.  above  the 
sea,  is  3  m.  K.  of  the  rly.  sta. 

296  m.  SEBINGAPATAM  sta.  At 
the  W.  end  of  an  island  in  the  Cauveiy 
river.  Pop.,  including  the  smburb  of 
Ganiam,  12,000. 

The  traveller  who  wishes  to  visit 
this  town  is  advised  to  stop  at  Mysore 
and  drive  over  for  the  day,  bringing 
his  food  with  him.  It  is  not  wise  to 
sleep  in  Seringapatam  as  it  is  a  hot- 
bed of  fever.  There  is  no  D.B.,  hot 
the  station  in  the  centre  of  the  fort  is 
a  good  place  to  rest  and  lunch. 

The  town  has  its  name  from  a  temple 
of  Vishnu  Shri  Ranga.  This  temple 
is  of  great  celebrity,  alid  of  mudi 
higher  antiquity  than  the  city,  whidi 
did  not  rise  to  be  of  importance 
until  the  time  of  the  princes  of 
the  Mysore  dynasty.  As  a  proof  of 
its  great  antiquity,  the  fact  may  be 
cited  that  it  jb  called  the  Adi  Ranga, 
or  original  Ranga,  while  the  islands  of 
Shivasamudram  and  Seringham  at 
Trichinopoly  are  called  respectively 
Madhya  Ranga  and  Antya  Banga, 
"meaiap-val  Ranga"  and  ** modem 
Ranga."  It  is  said  that  Gautama 
Rishi  worahipped  at  this  temple,  which 
is  in  the  Fort.  A  Tamil  memoir  in  the 
M'Kenzie  collection  called  Konga 
desa  Charitra,  commented  on  by  Prof. 
Dowson  {J.R,A,S.  vol.  viii.),  says: 
"On  the  7th  Vaishakhasudh,  816  A.s.  = 
894  A. p.,  a  person  named  Tirumalayan 
built  a  temple,  and  to  the  W.  of  it 
erected  an  image  of  Vishnu,  which  he 
called  Tirumala  Deva,  upon  some  land 
*  in  the  midst  of  the  Cauvery,  where  in 
former  times  the  Western  Kanganada 
Swami  had  been  worshipped  by 
Gautama  Rishi,'  but  which  was  then 
entirely  overrun  with  jungle.  Tliis 
place  he  called  Shri  Ranga  Patnam." 
In  1133  Ramanigachari,  the  Vish- 
navite  reformer,  took  refdge  in  Mysore 
from   the   persecution   of  the  Chola 


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Raja,  and  oonverted  from  the  Jain 
faith  Vishnu  Yardhana,  a  famous  Baja 
of  the  Hojsala  Ballala  dynasty.  The 
royal  convert  gave  him  the  province 
of  Ashtagrama  including  Serin^pa- 
tam,  over  which  he  appointed  officers 
called  Prabhurs  and  Hebbars.  In 
1454  the  Hebbar  Timmana  obtained 
from  the  Raja  of  Yijayanagar  the 
TOvemment  of  Serineapatam,  with 
J«ave  to  build  a  fort  there.  This  he 
did  with  treasure  he  had  found,  and 
he  also  enlarged  Shri  Banga's  temple 
with  the  materials  obtained  by  de- 
molishing 101  Jain  temples  at  Kalas- 
vadi,  a  town  8  m.  S.  His  descendants 
governed  till  the  Raja  of  Yijayanagax 
appointed  a  viceroy  with  the  title  of 
Shri-Ranga-Rayal.  The  last  of  these 
viceroys  was  Tirumala  Raja,  who  in 
1610  surrendered  his  power  to  Raja 
VTodayar,  the  rising  ruler  of  Mysore ; 
after  which  Seringapatam  became  the 
capital  of  the  ^sore  Rajas,  and  of 
Hyder  and  Tipu,  till  the  Fort  was 
stormed  twice,  viz.  in  1792  and  1799, 
by  British  armies.  After  the  4th  of 
May  1799  Mysore  became  the  capital. 

The  Fort. — In  the  western  extremity 
of  an  island  in  the  river  Kaveri  stands 
the  fort,  the  northern  the  longest  face 
'nst  a  mile  in  extent.  At  the  other 
end  was  the  Sultan's  palace  in  a  large 
garden  (the  Lai  Bagh)  and  a  large 
"pettah"  named  Shah  Ganjam,  sur- 
rounded by  a  mud  wall ;  between  it 
and  the  fort  stood  another  palace  in 
the  Daulat  Bagh,  and  to  the  south  of 
this  an  extensive  bazaar.  Yarious 
redoubts  and  batteries  defended  the 
island  towards  the  river.  The  plan  of 
the  Fort  is  an  irregular  pentagon, 
about  1  ro.  in  length,  and  \  m.  in 
breadth.  Buchanan  says  (vol.  L  p. 
62):  "The  Fort  occupies  the  upper 
(Western)  end  of  the  island,  and  is  an 
immense,  unfinished,  unsightly,  and 
injudicious  mass  of  building."  Tipu 
seems  to  have  had  too  high  an  opinion 
of  his  own  skill  to  have  consulted  the 
French  who  were  about  him,  and 
adhered  to  the  old  Indian  style  of 
fortification,  labouiing  to  make  the 
place  strong  by  heaping  walls  and 
cavaliers  one  above  another.     He  was 


also  very  diligent  in  cutting  ditches 
through  the  granite.  He  retained  the 
long  straight  walls  and  square  bastions 
of  the  Hindus ;  and  his  glacis  was  in 
many  parts  so  high  and  steep  as  to 
shelter  an  assailant  from  the  fire  of  the 
ramparts. 

Outside  the  fort  on  the  N.  and  S.  of 
the Eaveri,  a  "bound  hedge"  enclosed 
a  large  space.  That  on  the  north  was 
1  to  1^  m.  deep  by  3  m.  long  along 
the  river.  It  was  defended  by  six 
redoubts.  Here  Tipu  had  formed 
his  camp.  His  army  consisted  of 
6000  cavalry  and  40,000  to  50,000 
infantry. 

First  Siege.— On  the  5th  Feb.  1792 
the  British  allied  army  under  Lord 
Comwallis  numbering  10,000  white 
troops,  27,000  native  troops  with  400 

gms,  assisted  by  45,000  Mahratta  and 
yderabad  cavalry,  drew  up  in  position 
about  8  miles  north-west  of  S.,  its 
right  protected  by  the  French  rocks, 
and  its  left  resting  on  a  low  range 
running  north  and  south,  which  ter- 
minates in  the  Earighat  hill  on  the 
river  Eaveri  (easily  distinguishable  by 
pagoda  on  crest  of  spur).  This  brought 
the  army  opposite  Tipu  Sultan's  for- 
tified camp  on  the  north  side  of  the 
river  covering  S. 

On  the  evening  of  the  6th  Feb. 
orders  were  issued  for  a  night  attack, 
by  infantry  only,  on  the  "bound 
hedge "  position  north  of  the  Eaveri. 
Three  columns  marched  out  of  the 
British  camp,  together  numbering 
9000  men.  Each  column  forced  the 
hedgje  and  Tipu's  troops  retreated 
hurriedly  into  the  fortress  and  pettah. 
The  British  troops  in  detached  parties 
nearly  succeeded  in  penetrating  with 
the  fugitives  into  the  fort.  Many  of 
the  British  were  drowned  in  fording 
the  Eaveri.  Colonel  Monson  (after- 
wards weU  known  for  his  disastrous 
retreat  before  Holkar  in  1805)  crossed 
the  island  to  the  south.  Although 
unsuccessful  in  forcing  the  gate  of  the 
fort,  a  firm  footing  was  gained  in  the 
pettah,  and  the  enemy's  camp  taken. 
These  positions  were  held  by  the 
British,  and  trenches  were  commenced 
to  breach  the  wall  of  the  feH  on  the 


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north.  The  16th  Feb.  a  force  of  9000 
men  under  General  Abercrombj  joined 
from  the  Bombay  Presidency,  raising 
the  total  numbers  of  the  Army  to 
those  shown  above.  24th  Feb.  peace 
preliminaries  were  commenced  by 
which  Tipu  lost  a  large  proportion  of 
his  territory. 

Several  English  prisoners  were  re- 
leased here,  some  had  been  upwards  of 
ten  years  confined  in  chains  by  Tipu 
in  the  island.  They  were  perhaps 
some  of  those  taken  by  the  French 
Captain  Suflfrein  when  he  took  500 
British  in  H.M.S.  HanntbcU,  When 
Chitaldroog  fort  not  far  from  Ban^- 
lore  was  taken,  **Mr.  Drake,  midship- 
man of  the  Hannibal,  and  three 
private  men  of  H.M.*s  Navy,  escaped 
ripom  that  fort ;  they  were  some  of  the 
few  that  remained  of  the  500  prisoners 
of  war  who  were  delivered  over  to 
Hyder  Ali  (Tipu's  father)  by  M. 
Suffrein  in  August  1782."  Extract 
from  Dirom's  Narrative. 

Seoond  Siege.  —  In  spite  of  the 
lesson  taught  in  this  first  siege,  Tipu 
determinea  to  revenge  himself.  He 
used  the  years  between  1792  and  1799 
in  preparing  his  stronghold  for  defence. 
He  was  warned  by  French  advisers  of 
the  danger  that  the  west  angle  of  the 
Fort  was  in  from  "enfilade"  fire. 
On  our  side  this  weakness  in  the  west 
angle  of  the  fort  was  also  noticed, 
notably  by  Captain  Beatson,  one  of 
"the  Guides"  of  the  Q.  M.  G.  Depart- 
ment.  Tipu  secretly  built  an  inner 
moat  and  rampart  in  rear  of  the  weak 
portions  of  his  line  of  defence.  The 
site  of  this  inner  rampart,  pulled  down 
by  us  in  1799,  is  marked  by  tamarind 
trees  stUl  growing.  In  the  second 
siege  the  principal  line  of  attack  by 
regular  siege  parallels  was  from  the 
south-west  direction,  while  the  most 
western  bastion  of  the  fort  was  cannon- 
aded from  both  sides  of  the  river,  until 
it  was  reduced  to  its  present  state  of 
ruins.  Tipu  was  at  this  time  a 
desperate  man ;  his  French  advisers 
and  auxiliary  troops  had  deserted  him 
in  1792.  He  spent  his  time  mostly  on 
the  ramparts  in  encouraging  his  men 
and  in  devising  new  schemes  of  de- 


fence. A  large  breach  was  ready  for 
assault  by  May  1799  immediately 
south  of  the  west  angle  of  ib»  Fort 
At  1.80  P.M.  on  that  day  Sir  David 
Baird  stepped  out  of  the  Ist  parallel  a 
short  distance  from  the  breach  and  led 
his  stormers  across  the  shallow  Eaveri 
river  against  this  breach.  The  de- 
fenders were  taken  by  surprise,  little 
expecting  an  attack  at  this  scorching 
hot  time  of  day.  The  breach  was 
successfully  mounted,  when  to  the 
astonishment  of  all  they  found  them- 
selves in  face  of  a  second  rampart  ouite 
untouched  and  separated  from  tnem 
by  a  moat  full  of  water  ;  so  well  had 
Tipu  kept  his  secret !  Fortunately  fw 
us  one  single  plank  across  the  moat 
— left  by  the  defenders  in  their  haste 
to  withdraw — allowed  the  assanlting 
party  to  cross  and  penetrate  within 
the  inner  rampart,  and  within  a  few 
moments  they  were  cutting  down  the 
guard  of  the  King's  palace.  At  this 
moment  Tipu  was  on  the  north  front 
of  the  fort  encouraging  the  defence 
against  an  assault  on  an  outwoik. 
Hearing  that  the  British  were  in  the 
fort  he  rushed  back  through  the  arch- 
way— ^popularly  supposed  to  be  where 
he  was  killed,  and  perhaps  because  the 
arch  makes  a  more  picturesque  back- 
ground to  the  well-known  picture  of 
Baird — and  met  his  death  wit^iin  the 
palace  at  the  hands  of  a  British  private 
soldier.  Colonel  A.  Wellesley  com- 
manded the  column  which  assaulted 
the  north  side  of  the  Fort  This 
officer  was  appointed  military  governor 
of  the  place,  and  after  two  cuiys  was 
able  to  restore  order  among  the  soldiery 
to  whom  the  town  had  been  given  over 
to  sack,  their  hate  of  the  tyrant 
Tipu  being  greatly  increased  by  the 
torture  to  which  he  had  lately  been 
exposing  his  prisoners. 

The  best  way  for  the  traveller  to  see 
Seringapatam  is  from  Mysore,  driving 
thence  by  the  well-shaded  road.  As 
he  approaches  from  the  S.  he  will 
see  beyond  the  town  the  hills,  fit)m 
which,  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  Feb. 
1792,  Lord  Comwallis  and  staff  re- 
connoitred Tipu's  position  protecting 
S.  A  spur  on  the  extreme  right  sur- 
mounted by  a  pagoda  is  the  Karighat 

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hill,  surprised  that  night  by  a  party 
of  the  7l8t  and  72nd  Highlanders, 
who  subsequently  forded  the  river 
under  the  fiery  Baird,  losing  many 
by  drowning.  Below  these  hills  are 
rice  fields  in  much  the  same  state 
now  as  a  c^itury  affo  when  Comwallis 
and  the  gallant  Meadows  led  their 
columns  on  that  moonlit  night.  Small 
rises  in  the  ground  will  be  noticed  on 
which  were  most  likely  built  Eedgah 
and  Sultan's  redoubt  Meadows  as- 
saulted the  Eedgah  redoubt  and  took 
it  with  loss  of  11  officers  and  80  men. 
Here  Monsieur  Vigie  and  a  detach- 
ment of  Frenchmen  (360)  escaped, 
owing  to  their  *' uniform  being  similar 
to  ours."  Meadows,  anxious  at  his 
heavy  loss  in  taking  this  fort,  did  not 
push  on,  but  tried  to  find  Comwallis, 
and  took  no  more  part  in  the  attack 
on  that  night  of  the  6th  Feb.  His 
callant  nature  could  not  bear  the 
Sdlure  of  his  column,  and  he  remem- 
bered a  taunting  remark  of  Comwallis, 
and  so  brooded  over  the  imaginary 
imputation  of  cowardice,  that,  the  day 
peace  was  declared,  he  shot  himself, 
fortunately  not  fatally.  Meanwhile 
Comwallis's  column,  as  related  before, 
forced  the  centre  of  Tipu's  position, 
took  his  tent,  and  breaking  up  into 
small  parties  in  the  dark,  hurried  across 
the  river,  ''  the  passage  of  which  was 
difficult  owing  to  the  number  of  fugi- 
tives pressing  into  the  island,"  and  it 
was  by  bad  luck  they  failed  to  get  into 
the  east  ^ate  of  the  Fort.  One  cannot 
help  admiring  the  dash  of  the  British 
soloiers  who  could  achieve  such  a  feat 
as  did  those  on  the  night  of  the  6th 
Feb.  just  a  century  ago.  Approaching 
from  Mvsore,  the  traveller,  when  within 
two  miles  of  the  fort  walls,  will  come 
on  the  ground  occupied  bjr  Gen. 
Harris's  army  on  the  6th  Apnl  1799. 
On  that  day  the  British  forces  arrived 
from  Madras,  having  crossed  the  Kaveri 
at  Sosilla,  below  Seringapatam.  On 
the  extreme  left  of  the  fort  walls  he 
can  see  at  the  north-west  angle  of  the 
fort,  standing  out  in  bold  relief,  the 
bastion  which  Gren.  Harris  decided  to 
make  his  point  of  assault,  the  breach 
to  be  made  in  the  "  curtain  "  wall  near 
it.    Before  he  could  approach  the  walls 


the  enemy's  outposts  had  to  be  driven 
in  about  Sultan  pettah.  Here  Col. 
Wellesley  and  the  88rd  experienced  a 
slight  reverse  of  fortuDe.  Looking 
beyond  the  N.W.  bastion,  a  little 
village  can  be  seen  in  a  clump  of  trees 
overlooking  the  river  from  the  north 
bank,  this  is  Agrarium  villa^,  close 
to  which  the  enfilading  batteries  were 
formed. 

A  picturesque  stone  bridge  over  the 
little  Kaveri  is  now  reached.  This  is 
"Wallace's  Post."  Immediately  be- 
yond this  was  "Skelly's  Post,"  each 
gained  by  hard  fighting.  A  short  way 
before  crossing  a  smaU  canal  1.  along 
the  canal  bank  and  in  a  luxuriant 
garden  is  Irvine's  grave  in  good  preser- 
vation. This  seems  to  m  the  only 
grave  still  marked  of  the  11  officers 
and  62  men  killed  on  that  night  of  the 
26th  April  1799,  when  the  enemy's 
advanced  trenches  along  the  Kaveri 
were  assaulted.  The  assailants  were 
partly  successful  and  took  shelter  in 
the  small  canal,  at  that  time  dry.  On 
the  right  Col.  Campbell  and  parties 
from  the  71st  Regt.  and  a  Swiss  Regi- 
ment took  a  redoubt  in  front  of  the 
Periapatam  bridge,  across  which  they 
followed  the  fugitives  as  far  as  the 
entrenched  camp  on  the  island,  and 
after  sinking  some  guns  made  good 
their  retreat  under  a  heavy  fire.  The 
bridge  is  a  short  distance  in  front,  and 
will  be  crossed  to  get  into  the  fort. 
307  killed  and  wounded  this  night. 
"On  the  morning  of  the  27th  April 
Col.  Wallace's  position,"  above  re- 
ferred to,  "was  very  critical.  All  the 
men  that  could  be  spared  from  the 
trenches  were  sent  with  pickaxes,  and 
by  10  A.M.  had  thrown  up  sufficient 
,  cover  to  secure  the  position  which 
obtained  the  name  of  Wallace's  Post." 
On  the  29th  April  and  1st  May  the 
breaching  batteries  were  completed 
close  up  to  the  walls.  To  this  spot 
the  traveller  should  now  proceed.  It 
is  marked  by  two  guns  sunk  in  the 
ground.      Opposite   he  will   see   the 

Elace  were  tne  breach  was  made,  now 
uilt  up  by  order  of  the  Maharaja. 
Retiring  from  this  from  the  fort,  he 
will  see  a  small  pagoda  on  high 
ground  a  short  way  S'om  the  guns. 

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Bereabouts  was  the  positdon  of  a 
battery.  Walking  still  further  from 
the  fort  and  threading  his  way  through 
the  thickly-wooded  country,  he  will 
come  on  a  rocW-bedded  small  river. 
It  is  hard  to  reause  that  here  we  have 
"M'Donald's  Post."  The  rippling  of 
water  is  only  heard,  except  for  the 
occasional  splash  made  by  a  bright 
kingfisher  snooting  down  into  the 
stream,  and  in  the  distance  the  slow 
creaking  of  the  labourers'  water-lift. 
*•  17th  April  1799  Col.  McDonald  with 
the  2nd  12th  Madras  Infantry  occupied 
the  bank  of  the  little  Kaveii,  which 
thence  was  known  by  the  name  of 
M  Donald's  Post,  and  was  afterwards 
used  as  a  depot  for  the  engineers'  tools 
and  materials.  Casualties  this  day, 
two  officers  killed."  It  is  extremely 
hard  to  trace  the  features  of  the  ground 
owing  to  the  dense  foliage  all  about 
this  quarter. 

"  On  the  evening  of  the  8d  of  May 
the  situation  of  the  army  was  ex- 
tremely critical.  There  was  not  at 
this  time  more  than  two  days'  supply 
of  food  in  camp." 

Op^site  the  breaching  battery 
Agrarium  village  can  still  be  seen. 
Returning  along  the  canal,  the  tra- 
veller now  can  proceed  into  the  island 
over  Periapatam  bridge,  and  then, 
turning  to  the  right,  drive  through 
Shah  Ganjam  and  visit  Hyder  All's 
and  Tipu's  tombs,  the  Daulat  Bagh 
where  Wellesley  lived  three  years,  and 
then  on  into  the  fort.  The  neighbour- 
hood of  S.  is  full  of  interest.  Hyder 
Ali  and  Tipu — the  usurper  and  his 
son  —  cost  us  many  thousand  brave 
soldiers  whose  bones  lie  buried  around 
the  capital  on  every  side. 

In  the  Fort  on  the  N.  side,  and 
between  the  second  and  last  walls,  are 
the  wretched  places  in  which  Colonel 
Baillie  and  other  military  prisoners 
were  confined  from  1780  to  the  peace 
in  1786. 

A  good  yiew  of  the  city  and  sur- 
rounding country  may  be  obtained  by 
ascending  one  of  the  minars  of  the 
Jumma  Musiid,  built  by  Tipu  not 
long  before  his  death.  The  houses 
in  the  Fort  have  been  for  the  most 


part  demolished,  and  those  that  re- 
main are  greatly  dilapidated.  The 
place  is  notoriously  unhealthy.  The 
spot  where  the  breaching  battery  was 
placed  is  marked  by  two  cannons 
fixed  in  the  ground  opposite  the  W. 
an^le,  and  close  to  the  river's  edge, 
and  the  breach  itself  is  visible  a 
short  distance  to  the  right  of  the 
road  to  Mysore.  All  along  this  part 
where  the  stormers  rushed  to  ^e 
slaughter  there  are  now  trees  with 
luxuriant  foliage,  and  the  grass  grows 
freshly  under  them.  Tipu's  Palaa 
is  within  the  walls.  The  greater  part 
of  it  has  been  converted  into  a  ware- 
house for  sandal -wood,  and  the  rest 
has  been  demolished.  It  was  a  very 
large  building  surrounded  by  a  mass- 
ive wall  of  stone  and  mud,  and  was 
of  a  mean  appearance.  The  private 
apartments  of  Tipu  formed  a  square, 
and  the  entrance  was  by  a  strong  and 
narrow  passage,  in  which  fonr  tigers 
were  chained.  Within  was  tiie  hall 
in  which  Tipu  wrote,  and  to  it  few 
except  Mir  Sadik  were  ever  admitted. 
Behmd  the  hall  was  the  bedchamber. 
The  door  was  strongly  secured  on  the 
inside,  and  a  close  iron  grating  de- 
fended the  windows.  Buchanan  says 
that  Tipu,  lest  any  person  should  fire 
upon  him  while  in  bed,  slept  in  a  ham- 
mock suspended  from  the  roof  by  chains, 
in  such  a  situation  as  to  be  mvisible 
from  the  windows.  *  *  In  the  hammo(^ 
were  found  a  sword  and  a  pair  of  loaded 
pistols."  The  only  other  passage  led 
into  the  women's  apartments,  which 
contained  600  women,  of  whom  80 
were  wives  of  the  Sultan,  and  the  rest 
attendants. 

The  Darya  Davlat  Bagh,  a  sfummer 
palace  of  Tipu,  just  outside  the  Fort, 
is  distinguished  for  its  graceful  pro- 
portions and  the  arabesque  work  in 
rich  colours  which  covers  it  The  W. 
wall  is  painted  with  the  victoir  of 
Hyder  over  Colonel  Baillie  near  C<m- 
jeveram  in  1780.  It  had  been  defined 
prior  to  the  siege,  but  the  Duke  of 
Wellington,  then  Colonel  Arthur  Wel- 
lesley, who  made  this  garden  his 
residence,  had  it  restorecL  It  was 
afterwaixls   whitewashed    and   almost 

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ROUTE  2D.      MYSORE 


385 


obliterated,  but  Lord  Dalhousie,  having 
visited  the  spot  during  his  tour  in 
Mysore,  ordered  it  to  be  repainted  by 
&  native  artist  who  remembered  the 
oriffinal.  The  perspective  ia  very  bad, 
ana  the  general  eflect  erotesque,  but 
the  painter  has  succeedea  in  caricatur- 
ing the  expression  and  attitude  of  the 
British  soldiers,  and  the  Frenchmen 
are  very  lifelike. 

The  Lai  Bagh  is  a  garden  on  the 
other  side  of  Ganjam,  which  suburb 
intervenes  between  it  and  the  Darya 
Daulat.  It  contains  the  mausoleum 
of  Hyder  and  Tipu,  a  square  building 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  with  minarets 
at  the  angles,  and  surrounded  by  a 
corridor  which  ia  supported  by  pillars 
of  blac^  hornblende,  a  stone  that  is 
remarkable  for  its  beautiful  polish. 
The  double  doors,  inlaid  with  ivory, 
were  given  by  Lord  Dalhousie.  Each 
of  the  tombs  ia  covered  with  a  crimson 
pall.  The  whole  ia  kept  up  at  Govern- 
ment exj>ense.  The  tablet  on  Tipu's 
tomb  is  in  verse  to  this  effect  i  The 
light  of  Islam  and  the  faith  leffc  the 
world.  Tipu  became  a  martyr  for  the 
faith  of  Mohammed.  The  sword  was 
lost  and  the  son  of  Hyder  fell  a  noble 
martyr.  The  inscription  gives  the 
date  1213  a.h.  =  1799  a.d.  In  the 
Lai  Bagh  is  a  simple  memorial  to 
Colonel  Baillie,  who  died  in  1782,  a 
prisoner  of  Tipu.  On  the  way  to 
that  place,  on  slightly  rising  ground 
near  the  road,  are  interesting  memor- 
ials of  the  officers  and  men  of  the 
12th  and  74th  Regiments  killed  in 
action  in  1799. 

305  m.  MTSORE  sta.  ^  (D.B.  on  N. 
side  of  town),  the  capital  of  the  state 
so  called  (the  pop.  of  Mysore  state  is 
4,869,760),  at  the  N.W.  base  of  Cha- 
mundi  Hill,  an  isolated  peak  risine  to 
3489  ft.  above  the  sea.  Mysore  with  its 
three  suburbs  has  60,000  inhabitants. 
The  town  is  built  in  a  valley  formed  by 
two  ridges  running  N.  and  S.  There 
is  a  dignt  ascent  on  the  N.  side.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  regular,  and  there 
are  many  substantial  houses  two  or 
three  stories  high,  with  terraced  roofs. 
Most  of  the  houses,  however,  are  tiled. 
[India] 


The  town  has  a  neat  and  thriving  look, 
and  the  sanitation  has  been  much  at- 
tended to  by  the  municipality.  In  the 
Fort,  which  occupies  the  S.  quarter, 
the  appearance  of  the  houses  is  less 
promismg,  and  the  streets  are  narrow 
and  irregular.  The  Jail  is  nearly 
opposite  it  to  the  W.,  and  the  Residency 
is  I  m.  S.  in  the  E.  part  of  the  town, 
and  another  \  m.  S.  are  St,  Barthol- 
mew* 8  Church  and  the  Wesleyan  Church, 
The  summer  Palace  is  about  600  yds. 
E.  of  the  Fort,  while  another  palace  ia 
in  the  Fort  itself,  and  a  thira  some- 
what to  the  W. 

The  Fort  is  quadrangular,  three  of 
the  sides  being  450  yds.  long,  and  the 
fourth  or  S.  side  somewhat  longer. 
There  are  gates  on  the  N.,  S.,  and  W. 
Those  on  the  N.  and  S.  are  protected 
by  outworks :  flanking  towers  com- 
mand the  curtain  at  intervals.  At 
the  S.E.  angle  there  is  a  casemate, 
and  a  parapeted  cavalier  at  the  N.E., 
but  the  defences  are  mean  and  ill- 
planned.  A  ditch  surrounds  the  Fort, 
and  a  sloping  glacis  covered  with 
houses  abuts  it  on  all  sides  but  the 
E.,  where  the  ditch  is  separated  from 
the  Devaraj  Tank  only  by  the  high- 
road to  Nanjangud.  The  interior  of 
the  Fopt  ia  crowded  with  houses,  chiefly 
occupied  by  retainers  of  the  palace. 
The  Maharaja's  Palace  withm  the 
Fort  faces  due  E.,  and  is  built  in  the 
ultra -Hindu  style.  There  are  a  few 
paintings  by  a  European.  The  front 
IS  tawdry  and  supported  by  foui*  fan* 
tastiually  carved  wooden  pillars.  The 
Sejje  or  Dasara  hall  is  an  open  gallery 
where  the  Raja  showed  himself  to  the 
people  seated  on  his  throne  on  great 
occasions.  The  throne  is  very  remark- 
able. According  to  one  account  it 
was  presented  to  the  ambassadors  of 
Chikka  Deva  Raja  in  1699  by  the 
Emperor  Aurangzib  (Wilks,  vol.  i.  p. 
106)  for  their  prince.  The  palace 
legend  at  Mysore  is  that  it  was  found 
buried  at  Penkonda  by  the  founders 
of  the  Vyayan^r  Empire,  Hakka  or 
Harihara  and  Bukka,  who  were  told 
where  it  was  by  one  Vidyaranya,  an 
ascetic.  The  legend  goes  on  to  say 
that  it  was  the  throne  of  the  Pandus, 

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ROUTE  29.      MADRAS  TO  BANGAtiORS  AND  MT30RS 


India 


when  they  reigned  at  Hastinapura, 
whence  Kampma  Raja  brought  it, 
and  bnried  it  at  Penkonda.  It  is 
at  all  events  certain  that  it  was  used 
by  Chikka  Deva  and  his  successors  up 
to  the  time  of  Tipu  Sultan ;  that  it 
was  found  in  a  lumber-room  when 
Serin«kpatam  was  taken  by  the  British, 
and  that  it  was  employed  at  the  corona- 
tion of  the  Raja  to  whom  they  con- 
ceded the  government.  It  was  origin- 
ally of  fig -wood  overlaid  with  ivory, 
but  after  the  restoration  of  the  Raja 
the  ivory  was  plated  with  gold  and 
silver  carved  with  Hindu  mythological 
figures.  The  principal  gate  of  the 
palace  opens  into  a  passage  under  the 
Sejje  leading  into  an  open  court.  At 
the  farther  or  W.  side  of  this  court 
is  the  door  leading  to  the  women's 
apartments,  which  occupy  the  W.  part 
of  the  palace.  In  the  in  .  side  are  the 
armoury,  library,  and  various  offices. 
The  Amba  Vilasa  is  an  upper  room. 
It  is  hung  with  portraits*  of  officers 
connected  with  Mysore.  The  floor  is 
of  dazzling  white  chunam,  and  the 
doors  are  overlaid  with  ivory  or  silver 
richly  carved.  The  sleeping  apart- 
ments, which  are  small,  open  upon 
the  Amba  Vilasa.  The  palace  nas 
been  almost  all  built  since  1800,  but 
is  already  in  bad  repair.  Tipu  de- 
molished the  old  palace  of  the  Rajas, 
but  left  one  inner  room  with  mud 
walls  of  great  thickness.  This  is 
called  the  "Painted  Hall,"  from  the 
coloured  decoration  of  the  ceiling,  and 
is  said  to  have  been  the  State  reception- 
room.  In  front  of  the  palace  there  is 
an  open  space,  but  on  all  other  sides 
it  is  pressed  upon  by  the  huts  of  poor 
people. 

Opposite  to  the  W.  gate  of  the  Fort 
is  a  handsome  building  called  the 
Mohan  Mahals  or  "pleasure -palace," 
built  as  a  place  of  amusement  for 
European  officers,  The  upper  story 
is  adorned  with  pictures  in  the  Indian 
style.  E.  of  the  town  are  the  houses 
of  European  residents.  Here  is  the 
Residency,  built  by  Colonel  Wilks  at 
the  beginning  of  this  century,  in  the 
Doric  style.  Sir  John  Malcolm  added 
the  back  part,  in  which  is  one  of  the 
largest  rooms  in    S.    India.     As  the 


post  of  Resident  has  been  aboliahed, 
this  building  is  occupied  by  the  Com- 
missioner of  the  Asntagram  DivisLon. 
The  District  CivU  Ofiace  was  built 
and  for  some  time  occu^ed  by  the 
Duke  of  Wellington,  then  CoL  Wd- 
lesley. 

Until  the  beginning  of  the  l7th 
century  the  Mysore  chiefs  paid  tribute 
to  the  Viceroy  of  Seringapatam,  who 
was  an  officer  of  the  Raja  of  V^jaja- 
nagar,  but  in  1610  they  conquered 
that  city,  and  thenceforward  became 
powerful.  Tipu  tried  to  obliterate 
all  traces  of  the  Hindu  rule,  and  razed 
the  Fort  of  Mysore  to  the  ground,  using 
the  materials  to  build  gnother  fort  on 
an  eminence  1  m.  to  the  E.,  which  he 
called  Nazarabad,  some  remains  of 
which  are  still  to  be  seen.  When 
Tipu  fell,  the  stones  were  brought 
back  and  the  Fort  rebuilt  on  its 
original  site.  Owing  to  the  presence 
of  the  court,  Mysore  grew  as  Seringa- 
patam decreased.  The  Raja  was 
divested  of  power  in  1831,  owing  to 
the  disturbances  occasioned  b^  Ms 
misrule,  but  he  continued  to  reside  in 
the  palace  at  Mysore,  and  one-fifth  of 
the  revenue  was  assigned  to  Imn.  The 
state  was  handed  over  to  a  Native 
Ruler  in  1888. 

Chamundi,  the  hill  wliich  overlooks 
Mysore,  is  2  m.  S.E.  of  the  Fort.  It  is 
precipitous  and  rises  to  3489  ft.  above 
sea-level ;  a  fine  road  5^  m.  long  leads 
to  the  top,  on  which  is  a  temple. 
Human  sacrifices  were  ofiered  here 
until  the  time  of  Hyder  *Ali.  Two- 
thirds  of  the  way  up  is  a  colossal 
figure  of  Nandi,  the  sacred  bull  of 
Sniva,  hewn  out  of  the  solid  rock — a 
well-executed  work. 

Nanjangud,  12  m.  to  the  S.,  possesses 
a  temple  385  ft.  long  by  160  ft.  broad, 
supported  by  147  cmunins.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  sacred  in  the  Mysore  dis- 
trict, and  enjoys  a  Government  grant 
of  20,197  TS.  There  is  a  celebrated 
car-festival  here  in  March,  which  lasts 
three  days,  and  is  resorted  to  by 
thousands. 

Seringapatam  (p.  380)  is  best  seen 

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ROUTE   30.       THE   SHBVAROYS   AND   THE   NILGIRIS 


38T 


xiving  from  this  place.      Provisions 
9r  the  day  should  be  taken. 


ROUTE  30 

'he  Shevaroys  and  the  Nilgiris, 
coimbatorb  and  ootaoamxjnd 

207  m.  from  Madras,  Salem  sta.  (R.), 
n  the  S.W.  branch  of  the  Madras 
Lly.,  75  m.  S.W.  of  Jalarpet  junc. 
lie  railway  station  is  at  Suranmn- 
alam,  4  m.  from  the  town.  Salem 
pop.  67,800)  is  the  headquarters  of 
he  district  of  the  same  name. 

[The  Shevaroy  Hills. — Those  who 
esire  to  visit  these  interesting  hUls 
honld  write  or  telegraph  to  the  Yercaud 
lotel  for  a  conveyance  to  take  them 
rem  Saramungalam  to  the  foot  of  the 
ills,  a  distance  of  about  7  m.,  and  for 
earers  to  take  them  5  m.  up  the  ghat 
0  Yercaud.  The  journey  to  the  foot 
f  the  ghat  is  made  in  a  buUock-coach, 
r  jtUka,  and  the  ascent  either  by 
ony  or  in  a  chair  carried  by  "  bearers. 
''ercand  is  not  a  town,  but  consists 
f  a  nnmber  of  houses  scattered  about, 
'here  are  churches,  a  club,  and  post 
ad  telegraph  office. 

Only  a  few  small  streams  are  found 
n  the  hills,  some  of  which  dry  up  be- 
cveen  the  N.E.  monsoon  and  the  return 
f  the  S.W. ,  and  at  their  summits  the 
ills  are  scantily  clothed  with  veeeta- 
<m.  On  their  sides  for  a  third  of  the 
scent  the  common  trees  and  shrubs  of 


the  plain  are  met  with,  the  next  third 
is  overgrown  with  bamboo,  and  above 
it  grow  short  coarse  herbage,  long  rank 
grass  with  ferns.  The  coflfee  tree  grows 
on  these  hills  luxuriantly.  The  plants 
begin  to  bear  in  three  years,  are  m  full 
bearing  at  six  years,  and  last  thirty 
years.  The  steams,  however,  are 
bordered  with  large,  wide  •spreading 
trees.  There  is  a  pass  on  the  N.  side 
as  well  as  that  on  the  S.  from  Salem. 

The  climate  of  the  hills  is  peculiarly 
g:ood  for  gardening  operations  and  hor- 
ticulture. A  large  number  of  imported 
trees  and  plants  flourish.  In  an  open 
room  the  thermometer  seldom  falls  oe- 
low  65"*  F.  or  rises  above  78"  in  the. 
hottest  months.]  * 

243  m.  Erode  junc.  sta.  (R.)  Here 
the  South  Indian  Railway  (metre- 
gauge),  branches  to  the  S.E.  to  Trichi- 
Bopoly  (see  p.  400). 

[On  this  branch  at  19  m.  Unjalur 
sta.  is  a  very  pretty  village,  with  fine 
trees  and  a  long  cocoa-nut  avenue. 
Close  to  the  station,  in  an  enclosure, 
several  huge  figures  of  horses  and  other 
animals  can  be  seen  from  the  train. 

40  m.  Eamr  sta.  This  was  the 
capital  of  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Ohera. 
The  Fort  was  constantly  besieged  both 
in  ancient  times  and  during  our  wars 
with  Tipu.  In  1801  it  was  abandoned 
as  a  military  station.  The  ruins  of 
the  Fort  and  old  temple  are  both  in- 
teresting. 

85  m.  Trichinopoly.] 

302  m.  Podanur  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
Leaving  here  the  S.W.  main  line,  which 
terminates  at  Calicut  on  the  Malabar 
coast,  the  traveller  proceeds  towards 
the  Nilgiri  Hills,  ana  reaches  at 

305  m.  Ck>imbatore  sta.,  1480  ft. 
above  sea-level  (pop.  40,000).  There 
is  a  large  central  jail  1  m.  N.W.  of 
the  rly.  sta.  All  Souls'  Church  is  f 
m.  N.E.  of  the  rly.  sta.,  and  the 
Club  is  near  it.  The  great  sight  of 
Coimbatore  is  (3  m.)  the  Pagoda  of 
Perur.  A  view  of  a  pillar  at  Perur  will 
be  found  at  p.  372  of  Fergusson's  Hist, 
of  Arch.^  and  also  a  brief  mention  of 

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ROUTE    30.      THK  SfiEVAROTS   AKD   THE  KILGIRIS 


Inl 


it.  He  says :  *^  The  date  of  the  porch 
at  Peror  is  ascertained  within  narrow 
Umits  hy  the  figure  of  a  Sepoy  loading 
a  musket  being  carved  on  the  base  of 
one  of  its  pillars,  and  his  costume  and 
the  shape  of  his  arm  are  exactly  those 
we  find  in  contemporary  pictures  of  the 
wars  of  Aurangzib  or  the  early  Marathas 
in  the  beginning  of  the  18th  century. 
The  bracket  shafts  are  attached  to  the 
piers,  as  in  Tirumal  Nayak's  buildings, 
and  though  the  general  character  of  the 
architecture  is  the  same,  there  is  a 
coarseness  in  the  details,  and  a  marked 
inferiority  in  the  figure  sculpture,  that 
betray  the  distance  of  date  between  these 
two  examples."  We  have,  however, 
*seen  that  at  the  Great  Temple  at  Tan- 
jore,  which  dates  from  the  11th  or  12th 
century,  the  figure  of  a  European  with 
a  round  hat  haa  been  introduced,  and 
there  is  no  reason  to  doubt  that  new 
figures  were  from  time  to  time  intro- 
duced into  the  decorations  of  the 
pagodas  in  the  S.  of  India.  In  front 
of  the  Pagoda,  which  is  a  very  small 
one,  there  is  a  Dwaja  Stambha,  35  ft. 
high.  The  temple  is  sacred  to  Sab- 
hapati,  a  name  of  Shiva,  and  there  is 
a  smaller  one  to  Pattesbwar.  They 
were  both  built  in  Tirumal's  time. 
There  is  only  one  gopura  with  five 
stories,  about  55  ft.  hi^h.  In  the 
corridor  leading  to  the  Yimanah  there 
are  eight  very  richly  carved  pillars  on 
either  side  in  the  front  row,  and  behind 
them  eight  smaller  and  plainer.  From 
the  ceiling  hang  several  chains,  perhaps 
in  imitation  of  the  chains  with  beUs 
which  hang  from  the  Dwaja  Stambha 
in  front  of  the  building.  The  pillars 
represent  Shiva  dancing  the  Tandev; 
Shiva  killing  Oajasur,  the  elephant- 
headed  demon,  appropriate  enough  in 
a  locality  where  wild  elephants  used  to 
do  such  mischief ;  Vira  Bhadra  slaying 
his  foes  ;  and  the  Simha,  or  lion  of  the 
S.  Shiva  is  represented  with  a  huge 
shell  of  a  tortoise  at  his  back,  which 
forms  his  canopy.  There  is  a  hall  of 
72  pillars,  but  the  Brahmans  persist  in 
reckoning  only  60.  There  is  a  small 
chapel  here  with  the  appearance  of 
Jain  worship. 

827  m.  Mettupalaiyam  sta.  ^     This 


is  the  present  terminus  for  passeng< 
proceeding  to  the  Nilgiris.    Tongas 
Coonoor,  Wellington,  and  Ootacamufl 
see  Index  and  Directory  (Mettupalj 
yam).     Travellers  leaving  Mettu] 
yam  after  the  arrival  of  the  mail 
from  Madras  should  reach  Ootacami 
by  2  P.M.      A  narrow-gauge  rail^ 
is  now  being  constructed  from 
tupalaiyam  to  Coonoor. 

From    Mettupalaiyam    there 
good  road,   5  m.   long,   crossing 
Bhavani  river  to  Kolar^  where  the  _ 
ascent  commences.      From   Kolar 
Coonoor  it  is  about  9  m.  by  the 
and   steep  ghat,  and  16  m.  by 
splendid  new  ghat,  up  which  a  cai 
can  drive.    Ootacamund  is  12  m. 
Coonoor  by  an   easy   metalled 
passing  the  military  dep6t  of  Weill 
ton,  3  m.  out  of  Coonoor,  on  the  Ji 
tala  Hill.     There  is  a  bridle-track 
part  of  the  way  which   reduces 
riding  distance  to  10  m.     Eotagiri, 
small  sanatarium,  is  about  12  m.  ' 
Coonoor.      The  journey  horn  Mel 
palaiyam  to  Coonoor  occupies  three 
a  half  hours,  and  to  Ootacamund 
and  a  half  hours. 

Coonoor  if.  is  6100  fL  above  sea-leTd 
The  climate  is  about  6**  wanner  tin 
that  of  Ootacamund,  the  mean  anooi 
temperature  being  65",  and  the  rain&l 
55  in. 

In  Coonoor  itself  there  is  not  mm 
to  see,  except  the  Ohurch,  The  ascail 
to  it  is  rather  steep  for  a  carriage. 

Sims's  Park,  a  prettily  laid-out  pnl 
garden,  contains  an  excellent  collecti 
of  plants.     One  shady  dell  is  fall 
splendid  tree-ferns  and  others  of  Is 
size,  and  is  overshadowed  by  large  t 
of  scarlet  rhododendron.     Below 
park  is  the  Wellington  Hace-eourse. 
ride  of  4  m.  as  the  crow  flies,  but  of  7 1 
following  the  windings  of  the  pa^ 
brings  the  traveller  to  the  Kathari 
Waterfall,  which  is  situated  N.K. 
Coonoor,   and  not  quite  half-way 
Kotagiri.    The  road  leads  for  3  m.  tl|i 
the  skirts  of  pretty  woods,  s^bfa^asi 
are  here  called,  and  then  turning 
into  a  narrower  one  not  shaded  by  f 
reaches  (4  m.)  a  rockv  bluff  called 

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d  by  Google 


Digitized  by  VjOOQ 


ROUTE  30.       OOTACAMUND 


389 


"Seat,  Below  to  the  S.  lie 
offee  plantations.     The  path 

^Jids  considerably,  and  turns 

n  bluff  with  a  path  all  round 

king  the  chasm  into  which 

A  that  makes  the  Katharine 

j^nds.     The  view  here  is  fine. 

^^all  does  not  exceed  300  ft, 

*,  but  the  ravine  is  very  deep. 

0  affords  a  good  idea  of  about 
S.E.  frontier  of  the  Nilgiris, 

nd  Eotagiri  it  becomes  wHder. 

^^-—Hon  to  the  Holikal  drug,  or 
-i^jk  Fort,  which  is  on  the  suibimit 


^i     ,  that  towers  up  to  the  left  of 
^^   in  ascending   from  Mettu- 
This  expedition  is  one  that 
the  whole  day  from  dawn  to 
c^fmrnnhn^  Lb  very  fiatiguing.    The  road 
'~ns  o  ff  at  the  first  zigzag  on  the 
^t  about  2  m.  from  Coonoor.     A 
idle-path  along  the  ridge  leads 
,ji^u    The  best  line  to  follow  for  part 
j^way  is  a  private  road  across  a 
itate,  but  the  owner's  consent 
obtained.     The  peak  is  said 
>85  ft.  high,  and  commands  in 
^^-^Tjreather  a  splendid  view. 
^*^'' m  the  Post  Office  at  Coonoor  it 
P^»;^t  3  m.  to  the  Barracks  at  Wel- 
[    ^^gL      About  i  m.  before  reach- 
Hi^  J3ie  barracks   a  pretty  fountain 
^^J\jross-road  is  reached.     The  road 
^jStef  barracks  turns  off  here  sharply, 
'"^ffracks,  an  unsightly  pile,  nearly 
TtJL  long,  but  believed  to  be  among 
l&est  in  India,  lie  at  the  foot  of 
^  ly  steep   hill,   on  which   is  the 
HkEandant's  house  with  its  pretty 
'•  ^.    About  half-way  up  this  hill 
if  reservoir.     The  water  is  brought 
/ipes  from  a  spot  in  the  hUls  about 
-^  from  the  barracks,  which  were 
^^lied  in   1860.     The  hospital  was 
i  in  1854.     A  large  piece  of  ground 
^     e  to  the  barracks  is  cultivated  by 
soldiers,  where  both  flowers  and 
^etables  are  very  successfully  grown. 
3  mean  annual  range  of  the  ther- 
meter  is  64",  of  the  barometer  24"*. 
I  lamfjBll  is  about  70  in. 

iund.3^— From   Wellington 

jks  to  Ootacamund  is  9  m.    The 

well  planted  with  trees;  it 


skirts  a  precipice  of  some  hundred 
feet  in  height,  which  looks  down  on 
patches  of  cultivation.  The  scenery 
IS  magnificent.  Ootacamund  is  in  a 
valley  surrounded  by  lofty  hills,  of 
which  Dodabeta  on  the  E.  is  the  highest, 
being  8622  ft.  above  sea-level.  But 
there  are  also  other  high  hills,  as  Elk 
Hill,  8090  ft.  high.  The  Lake  is  1 J  m. 
long  from  E.  to  W.,  but  narrow.  It  is 
7220  ft.  above  sea-level,  and  the  road 
round  it  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  drives 
in  the  place.  The  principal  Churchy  SU 
Stephen's,  is  near  the  Post  Office,  the 
Public  Library,  and  the  principal  shops. 
The  Market  is  close  to  the  E.  end  of 
the  Lake,  and  the  Jail  is  to  its  W.  on 
the  N.  side.  St.  Thomas's  Church  is 
on  the  S.  side  of  the  Lake  and  close  to 
it  W.  of  the  bridge. 

A  visit  to  the  Chinchona  FlarUations 
of  Dodabeta  will  afford  a  grand  view 
over  Ooty,  to  the  W.,  and  the  valley  of 
the  Moyar  river,  to  the  E. 

The  Botanical  Gardens,  established 
in  1840  by  public  subscription,  are 
beautifully  laid  out  in  broad  terraces 
one  above  another  at  the  foot  of  a  hill, 
which  gradually  rises  till  it  culminates 
in  the  peak  of  Dodabeta,  1206  ft  above 
the  Gardens,  and  8622  ft  above  the 
sea.  The  Superintendent's  house  is 
charmingly  situated,  and  has  been  used 
by  the  Governor  before  the  new  Govern- 
ment House  was  erected. 

The  Chinchona  Plantations  are  not 
much  in  point  of  appearance,  as  the 
tree  is  small  (25  ft.)  and  has  but  little 
foliage.  The  species  here  cultivated  is 
the  offidnjalis,  and  is  of  three  kinds : 
(1)  the  Condaminea  ;  (2)  the  Bonplan- 
dinia ;  (3)  the  Crispa.  The  system 
pursued  has  been  that  after  the  tree 
has  grown  eight  years  it  is  barked. 
Half  of  the  bark  is  taken  off  in  six 
months  during  the  rains,  and  the  other 
half  next  year.  The  tree  then  rests 
one  year,  so  that  each  yield  takes  three 
years.  When  barked  it  is  swathed  in 
moss,  a  system  which  Mr.  M'lvor,  the 
late  Superintendent,  introduced  from 
Peru.  After  the  tree  has  been  mossed 
it  gives  an  improved  yield,  as  it  de- 
velops more  bitter  anda^aloid  particles. 

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ROUTE  30.       THE  SHEVAROYS  AND  THE  NILQIRIS 


India 


The  bark  is  out  off  in  parallel  slips,  and 
flTows  again  after  the  mossing.  The 
Dutch  system,  sinoe  introduoed,  consists 
of  shaving  off  the  outer  layers  of  bark, 
never  completely  stripping  any  portion 
of  the  tree.    This  is  the  crown  Dark. 

From  the  top  of  the  ridge  a  most 
superbpanorama  is  seen.  Looking  to 
the  S.  W.  one  notices  Elk  Hill,  8090  ft. 
high,  behind  which,  and  not  visible,  is 
the  Ifatorence  Asylumj  7330  ffc.  Farther 
to  the  S.W.  is  Chinna  Dodabeta,  or 
Little  Dodabeta,  7849  fb.,  and  in  the 
far  W.  Ckiim  Billy  7683  ft.  Ootaca- 
mund  itself  and  its  Lake  and  St.  Ste- 
phen's Church  Hill,  7429  ft  Beyond 
are  still  higher  hills,  as  SnoiodoTb,  8299 
ft.,  and  Cluh  Hill,  8030  ft.  The  finest 
view,  however,  is  to  the  E.  Here  is 
Orange  Valley,  where  oranges  ^ow 
wild.  Here  too  is  the  Moyar  valley, 
ignobly  termed  "the  Mysore  Ditch," 
but  really  profound  and  gloomy  with 
forests  and  the  shadows  of  overhanging 
hiUs.  Here  also  is  seen  dimly  the  Gajal- 
hatti  Pass  and  Eotagiri,  and  mountains 
beyond  almost  unknown  and  inacces- 
sible from  dense  forests  containing 
savage  beasts.  The  visitor  will  observe 
the  two  kinds  of  acada,  the  melan- 
oxylon  and  dealbata,  and  the  euca- 
lyptus globulus,  or  blue  ffum  tree, 
which  at  its  third  year  sheds  its  blue 
leaves,  and  puts  out  others  of  a  dark 
green.  After  descending  from  the 
ne^hts  he  mav  take  a  path  to  the 
N.E.,  previously,  of  course,  having 
ordered  his  carriage  to  meet  him  at  the 
foot  of  the  hill  in  that  direction.  The 
whole  expedition  will  take  about  six 
or  seven  hours,  that  is  supposing  that 
the  highest  peak,  Dodabeta  itself,  is 
visited. 

The  Latorence  Asylum  is  5  m.  from 
the  Post  Office  at  Ootacamund,  and 
is  a  handsome  structure,  with  a  tower 
over  70  ft.  high,  situated  in  a  lovely 
valley.  The  dining-room  is  large 
enough  to  accommodate  300  boys.  In 
it  are  good  portraits  of  Sir  Hope  and 
Lady  Grant.  The  boys  learn  among 
other  things  telegnphv,  and  compete 
for  appointments  in  the  Government 
Telefi^ph  Department;  others  are 
taught  trades,  and  some  are  enlisted 
in  regiments  stationed  in  India,    The 


visitor  may  return  by  another  road, 
and  will  notice  a  fine  piece  of  water. 
He  will  remark  also  me  tea- planta- 
tions. 

In  some  of  the  compounds  or  grounds 
at  Ooty  are  beautiful  shrubs.  Baikie's 
Guide  says  that  a  heliotrope  in  Mr. 
Dawson's  garden  attained  10  ft  in 
height,  and  30  ft.  in  circumference, 
and  a  verbena  20  ft.  in  height,  with 
the  branches  of  a  tree. 

Eaity. — There  is  a  jjleasant  drive  of 
5  m.  to  the  S.E.  to  Kaity.  A  Govern- 
ment farm  was  established  in  the  Ksitr 
valley  in  1831,  in  the  hope  that  Euro- 
pean j>roduce  might  be  derived  from  it 
This  idea  was  not  realised,  and  th« 
Governor  of  Pondicherry  then  inhalnted 
the  farmhouse  for  a  time.  After  this 
Lord  Elphinstone  took  a  lease  of  the 
property  for  99  years.  He  enlarged  thf 
building,  and  fuirnished  it  niagnifi<  ently 
with  articles  selected  by  Count  d'Orsaj. 
In  1845  Mr.  Casamajor,  of  the  MaditLs 
Civil  Service,  bought  the  property  for 
15,000  rs.  and  expended  10,000  rs.  (m 
it.  At  his  death  he  bequeathed  tiie 
greater  part  of  his  fortune  to  the  BatU 
Mission^  which  has  a  church  and  con- 
gregation here. 

Murkorti  Peak  is  20  nu  due  W.  of 
Ootacamund,  among  the  grand  moun- 
tains of  the  Eundas,  where  the  scenery 
is  magnificent.  8  m.  can  be  driven ;  the 
remaining  12  m.  must  be  on  horseback 
Of  course  the  traveller  must  take  his 
refreshments  with  him,  for  none  are  to 
be  had  in  that  wild  region.  It  will  be 
also  well  to  take  a  rifle.  This  peak  is 
8402  ft  high,  while  Avalanche  Hill 
is  8502  ft.,  Eundah  Peak  8353  ft.,  and 
Devibetta  ("Sugar-loaf  Hill")  only 
6571  ft.  Another  name  for  the  Mur- 
kurti  Peak  is  Taigawnanu  "It  is  a 
spot  held  sacred  by  the  Todas  «s 
the  residence  of  a  personage  whom 
they  believe  to  be  the  kee^  of  iht  i 
gates  of  heaven."  ^  The  religion  of  thi^ 
singular  tribe,  the  Todas,  £»  not  yet 
been  definitely  ascertained.  The  author 
of  this  book  conversed  with  one  of  their 
old  men  in  Eauarese,  and  on  inter- 

I  Smoult's  64.  of  ^ikUfs  6%idt,  i 


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ROUTE  30.       MURKURTI    PEAK 


391 


r^^tiBg  him  on  the  subject  of  his 
faith,  the  old  man  said,  *'I  worship 
the  Swami,  who  dwells  in  heaven,  but 
I  know  not  His  name."  In  going  to 
this  peak  the  traveller  follows  the 
windmgs  of  the  Pavhk  river  to  its  con- 
fluenoe  with  the  Paikari.  Thence  he 
will  trace  the  Paikari  to  its  source, 
which  is  close  to  the  Murkurtl  Peak. 
From  the  source  of  the  Paikari  an  easy 
ascent  of  H  m.  leads  to  the  summit  of 
the  peak ;  and  there,  should  the  mist 
and  clouds  fortunately  roll  away,  a 
grand  scene  will  present  itself  to  the 
view.  The  W.  side  of  the  mountain 
is  a  terrific  and  perfectly  perpendicular 
precipice  of  at  least  7000  ft.  The 
mountain  seems  to  have  been  cut  sheer 
through  the  centre,  leaving  not  the 
slightest  shelve  or  ledge  between  the 
pinnacle  on  which  the  traveller  stands 
and  the  level  of  the  plains  below.  To 
add  to  the  terror  of  this  sublime  view, 
the  spot  on  which  the  gazer  places  his 
feet  is  as  crumbling  as  precipitous,  the 
ground  being  so  insecure  that  with 
ahnost  a  touch  large  masses  can  be 
hurled  down  the  prodigious  height 
into  the  barrier  forest  at  the  foot  of 
the  hills,  which  at  such  a  distance 
looks  like  moss. 

Other  sights  on  the  Nilgiris  are  the 
taaUifcUls  at  U-  Yal-HaUi,  and  those  at 
the  top  of  the  Sigur  Ghat ;  there  is  also 
another  much  finer  fall,  in  the  heart  of 
the  Eundas,  formed  by  the  Bhawani, 
400  or  600  ft.  high,  with  a  large  body 
of  water,  and  surrounded  by  scenery  of 
the  most  savage  grandeur,  but  it  is  diffi- 
cult of  access.  The  Ranga- Swami 
Temple,  and  the  fortress  of  Gagana 
Chukki,  may  also  be  visited.  The 
native  villages  of  the  Todas  (the  ab- 
original hill  tribe)  and  other  tribes 
may  be  seen  en  rotUe  in  any  of  these 
expeditions. 

The  stone-oircleB,  which  the  Todas 
call  Phins,  and  which  contain  images, 
nrns,  relics,  and  some  very  prettily- 
wrought  gold  ornaments,  are  round  in 
many  parts  of  the  hills,  but  the  most  con- 
venient locality  for  a  visit  from  Ootaca- 
mand  is  the  hill  of  Karoni,  3  m.  to  the 
S.  The  circles  are  built  of  rough  un- 
hewn stone,  some  of  them  of  a  large 
dize^  which  roust  hftve  bee»  brought 


from  a  considerable  distance.  The 
history  of  their  construction  is  quite 
unknown. 

It  remains  to  say  something  of  the 
sport  to  be  obtained  on  the  Nilgiris, 
and  of  the  natural  products.  The 
woods  in  general  are  so  ornamentally 
disposed  as  to  remind  one  of  the  parks 
in  a  European  country.  They  are 
easily  beaten,  and  from  the  end  of 
October  to  March  woodcock  are  found 
in  them.  Jungle-fowl  and  spur-fowl 
are  very  numerous.  Partridges  are 
rare  ;  quails  common  in  the  lower  parts 
of  the  hills.  Snipe  come  in  in  Sep- 
tember, and  are  seldom  found  after 
April.  The  solitary  snipe  {Scolopax 
major)  is  occasionally  shot.  There 
are  blackbirds,  larks,  thrushes,  wood- 
peckers, imperial  pigeons,  blue  wood- 
pigeons,  doves,  and  green  plovers  in 
abundance.  There  is  also  an  immense 
variety  of  hawks,  and  among  them 
a  milk-white  species,  with  a  large 
black  mark  between  the  wings ;  as  also 
a  cream-coloured  species.  Large  black 
eagles  are  occasionally  seen  ;  and  owls 
of  various  sorts,  particularly  an 
immense  horned  kind.  Hares  and 
porcupines  abound,  and  do  much 
damage  to  the  gardens.  Both  are 
excellent  eating ;  the  flesh  of  the 
porcupine  resembles  delicate  pork. 
Jungle  sheep  or  muntjak  can  be  found 
in  nearly  all  the  sholas  around  the 
station.  In  the  most  inaccessible  parts 
of  the  Eundas  the  ibex  may  be  found, 
but  are  very  shy  and  difficult  to 
approach.  Among  the  larger  game 
wild  hogs  and  sambar  or  elk  afford 
good  sport.  Pole-cats,  martins,  jackals, 
wild  dogs,  and  panthers  are  numerous. 
So,  too,  is  the  black  bear,  especially  in 
the  early  part  of  the  monsoon,  when 
they  ascend  the  hills  in  pursuit  of  a 
large  brown  beetle,  their  favourite 
food.  Among  the  tall  grass,  which  is 
often  as  high  as  a  man's  head,  and  in 
the  thicker  and  larger  sholas  the  royal 
tiger  is  not  unfrequently  met  with. 


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392 


ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNEVELLY 


India 


ROUTE  31 
Madras  to  Conjeveram,  Madura, 

AND    TiNNEVELLY    BY    THE     SoUTH 

Indian  Railway,  433  miles. 
Madras  is  described  p.  336. 

34  m.  Chinglepnt  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
A  line  of  39  m.  runs  to  Arkonam 
junc.  Sta,  (R.)  on  the  Madras  Rly. 
p.  335. 

The  Fort  here,  through  part  of  which 
the  railway  passes,  contains  the  Public 
Offices  and  Reformatory  School,  and  was 
erected  by  the  Rajas  of  Vijayanagar 
at  the  end  of  the  16th  century.  It 
played  an  important  part  during  the 
contest  between  the  English  and 
French,  and  was  once  bombarded  by 
Olive;  it  was  afterwards  a  place  of 
confinement  for  French  prisoners ; 
and  during  the  siege  of  Madras  by 
Lally  it  was  of  enormous  use  by  en- 
abling the  garrison  to  annoy  the 
Frenwi  rear,  and  intercept  their  com- 
munications. This  town  is  the  centre 
of  the  Tamil  Missions  of  the  Free 
Church  of  Scotland.  The  Medical 
Mission  is  at  Walajabad  near  Con- 
jeveram. 

[On  the  branch  between  Chinglepnt 
and  Arkonam  ia  Conjeveram  sta. 
(Kanchipuram,  the  Golden  City),  60  m. 
from  Madras  by  Arkonam,  66  m.  by 
Chinglepnt.  The  Benares  of  Southern 
Hindustan,  one  of  the  7  sacred  cities 
(40,000  inhab. )  The  great  festival  here 
is  in  May.  The  Temple^  about  2  m.  from 
the  rly.  sta.,  is  dedicated  to  Ekambarah 
Swami,  which  may  mean  the  Deity 
with  the  single  garment.  Just  before 
reaching  the  great  temple  there  is  a 
mosque,  which  was  formerly  a  Hindu 
temple.    The  Gfreat  Gopura  is  on  the 


S.  side  of  the  outer  enclosure,  and 
has  ten  stories,  and  an  enormous  t(^ 
without  any  window  or  means  of  aacent 
The  topmost  five  stories  have  been  re- 
paired and  somewhat  altered.  The 
total  height  is  188  ft.  In  the  view 
from  the  top  are  seen  2  open  pavilions, 
consisting  of  a  stone  root  on  16  stone 
pillars,  18  ft.  high,  carved  in  alto- 
relievo.  The  chief  part  of  the  town, 
which  is  full  of  fine  trees,  and  has  veiy 
broad  streets,  with  low  houses  and  a 
good  many  smaller  pagodas,  is  idso 
visible,  as  is  the  railway  to  Arkonam. 
2J  m.  S.  is  seen  the  Palar  river.  S.E. 
is  seen  the  Vishnava  temple  at  Little 
Conjeveram.  £.,  and  outside  the 
enclosure,  is  a  magnificently  carved 
wooden  car,  very  high,  with  massire 
wooden  wheels.  Passing  through  the 
Great  Gopura  an  open  space  is  entered, 
and  at  60  yds.  to  the  left  is  the  Hall 
of  1000  Pillars.  This  hall  stands  to 
the  W.  of  the  Great  Gopura,  and  at  its 
N.  end  has  another  fine  gopura,  not  so 
high  as  the  first  In  this  nail  are  20 
rows  of  27  pillars  each,  making  alto- 
gether 540,  instead  of  1000.  Most  of 
the  pillars  have  alto-relievo  carvings, 
but  some  are  plain.  In  the  centre  ^ 
the  hall  the  pillars  have  been  closed 
with  wattle,  so  as  to  form  a  chamber, 
in  which  various  figures  of  monsters 
are  kept,  which  are  carried  in  proces- 
sion on  high  days.  Only  caste  Hindus 
are  permitted  to  enter  the  adytum, 
where  a  lamp  is  kept  burning.  There 
are  four  rows  of  ornate  pillars  with 
capitals  of  masonry  before  the  vimansd), 
and  between  it  and  the  base  of  a  small 
gopura  it  is  usual  to  bring  out  Nautch 
girls  to  exhibit  their  performances  to 
visitors.  Between  the  vimanah  and 
the  Great  Gopura  is  a  very  old 
temple  with  a  long  inscription  on  its 
outer  wall  in  Granthi.  In  this,  the 
Ekambarah  Temple,  there  are  three 
gopuras. 

The  Vish/Mi  Temple  in  Little  Con- 
jeveram is  about  2  m.  off.  Yishnu  is 
worshipped  here  under  the  name  of 
Varada  Rajah,  **  boon-giving  king.'* 
The  entrance  is  under  a  gopura,  which 
has  seven  stories,  and  is  about  100  ft. 
high.  On  both  sides  of  the  gateway 
are  Sanscrit  inscriptions  in  the  Tamfl 

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ROUTE  31.       GINGI 


393 


cliaracter,  called  Granthi.  There  are 
great  numbers  of  Nautch  girls.  After 
passing  through  the  gopura,  you  have 
on  your  left  a  hall  of  pillars,  which  is 
the  building  best  worth  seeing  in 
Conjeveram.  The  pillars  are  carved  in 
most  marvellous  fashion,  the  bases 
representing  riders  on  horses  and  on 
hippogrifis.  At  the  S.K  comer  is  a 
remarkable  carving  of  a  chain  with 
eight  links,  like  a  cable,  terminating 
in  the  many  heads  of  the  Shesh  Nag  at 
one  end,  and  at  the  other  in  a  sort  of 
taiL  Visitors  are  not  allowed  to  enter 
this  halL  N.  of  the  hall  is  a  Teppa 
Kulam  and  a  small  mandapam,  with  a 
doable  row  of  pillars.  E.  of  the  Kulam, 
or  tank,  is  a  small  temple  dedicated  to 
the  Chakrah,  or  discus,  of  Vishnu. 

Here,  at  the  request  of  a  visitor,  the 
jewels  will  be  shown.  Ornaments  for 
the  head,  of  which  there  are  at  least  five, 
are  called  Konda  and  Kiraten,  and  are 
like  two  basins,  one  placed  on  the  other 
reversed,  of  gold,  and  studded  with 
rubies,  diamonds,  and  emeralds,  worth 
from  6000  to  10, 000  rs.  each.  Nagasena 
is  a  fillet  li  in.  broad,  studded  with 
gems,  used  to  bind  the  hair  of  the 
goddess  Vishnu's  consort.  Kantha 
Hara  are  necklaces  of  various  kinds,  of 
pearls,  rubies,  and  emeralds.  Twre  are 
aigrettes  of  rubies.  Gold  chains  are 
too  numerous  to  mention,  and  are 
worth  from  800  to  1000  rs.  Observe 
also  a  Makkara  KaTvthay  a  sort  of  neck- 
lace,  worth  7000  rs.,  given  by  an  Achari. 
Observe  too  the  padamSf  gold  casings 
for  the  feet  of  idols,  studded  with 
jewels,  and  a  Makkara  Kantha,  a  neck- 
lace with  pendants,  worth  8600  rs. ,  said 
to  have  been  given  by  Lord  Clive,  and  a 
Pcbda  Kwre,  an  ornament  for  the  neck, 
and  Nei  Koth,  frontlets.  On  the  wall 
of  the  enclosure  are  numerous  Tamil 
words  and  letters,  said  to  be  builders' 
marks.  On  the  W.  and  E.  side  of  the 
wall  of  the  inner  enclosure,  about  the 
centre,  is  a  mark  something  like  a 
ho«se-ahoe,  which  is  said  to  be  the  first 
letter  of  Vishnu.  Ever  since  1789  two 
sects  have  been  fighting  fiercely  about 
the  form  of  this  symbol.  The  keepers  of 
the  shrine  say  it  should  be  made  with 
a  plain  line. 

On  the  way  back  from  the  temple 


one  may  visit  the  Makbarah,  or  tomb 
of  Hamid  Auliya,  who  was  the  minister 
of  a  king  of  Bijapur,  and  subsequently 
canonist  The  buildinff  has  a  small 
dome,  and  stands  100  yds.  back  from 
the  road  in  a  garden. 

A  few  m.  N.W.  of  Conjeveram 
Baillie's  Division  was  cut  to  pieces  by 
Hyder  *Ali,  and  Sir  Hector  Munro 
threw  his  guns  and  baggage  into  the 
Temple  Tank  on  his  retreat  to  Chingle- 
put] 

75  m.  Tindivanam  sta.  (B.),  B.B. 

[18  m.  W,  of  this  station  by  road  is 
Gingi  {Chenji),  considered  the  most 
famous  fort  in  the  Camatic.  The 
interest  of  the  place  is  exclusively  his- 
torical. The  fortress  consists  of  three 
strongly-fortified  hills  connected  by  long 
walls  of  circumvallation.  The  highest 
and  most  important  hill  is  called 
Rajamri,  about  500  or  600  ft.  high, 
whicn  consists  of  a  ridge  terminatmg 
in  an  overhanging  blufi^  facing  the  S., 
and  falling  with  a  precipitous  sweep  to 
the  plain  on  the  Is .  On  the  summit 
of  this  bluff"  stands  the  citadeL  On  the 
S.W.,  where  the  crest  of  the  ridge 
meets  the  base  of  the  bluffi  a  narrow 
and  steep  ravine  probably  gave  a  diffi- 
cult means  of  access  to  the  top,  across 
which  the  Hindu  engineer  built  three 
walls,  each  about  20  or  26  ft.  high, 
rising  one  behind  the  other  at  some 
little  distance,  and  rendering  an  attack 
by  escalade  in  that  direction  almost 
impracticable.  On  the  N.  side  a  narrow 
chasm  divides  a  portion  of  the  rock 
from  the  main  mass.  This  chasm  the 
fortifiers  of  the  rock  artificially  pro- 
longed and  deepened ;  and  where  it 
had  a  width  of  about  24  ft.,  and  a 
depth  of  about  60  ft.,  they  threw  a 
wooden  bridge  over  it,  and  made  the 
only  means  of  ingress  into  the  citadel 
through  a  narrow  stone  gateway  facing 
the  bridge. 

Several  ruins  of  fine  buildings  are 
situated  inside  the  fort.  Of  these  the 
most  remarkable  are  the  two  pagodas, 
the  Ealiyana  Mahal,  the  Gymkhana, 
the  Granaries,  and  the  'Idgah.  The 
Ealiyana  Mahal  consists  of  a  square 
court  surrounded  by  rooms  for  the 
ladies  of  the  Governor's  household.     In 


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the  middle  is  a  square  tower  of  eight 
stones,  with  a  pyramidical  roof. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  are 
— the  great  gun  on  the  top  of  Bajasiri, 
which  lias  the  figures  7560  stamped  on 
it ;  the  Raja's  bathing-stone,  a  large 
smooth  slab  of  granite.  The  prisomrs' 
well  \&  a  very  singular  boulder,  about  15 
to  20  ft.  high,  poised  on  a  rook  near  the 
Chakrakulam,  and  surmounted  by  a 
low  circular  brick  wall.  It  has  a 
natural  hollow  passing  through  it  like 
a  well. 

Gingi  was  a  stronghold  of  the  Vijav- 
anagar  power,  which  was  at  the  height 
of  ite  prosperity  towards  the  close  of  the 
15th  century,  and  was  finally  over- 
thrown by  the  allied  Mohammedan 
kings  of  the  Deccan  in  1564  at  Talikot. 
In  1677  the  fort  fell  to  Shivaji  by 
stratagem,  and  remained  in  iilaratha 
hands  for  twenty-one  years.  In  1690 
the  armies  of  the  Delhi  emperor,  under 
Zulfikar  Ehan,  were  despatched  against 
Gingi  with  a  view  to  the  final  extirpa- 
tion of  the  Maratha  power :  the  fort 
ultimately  fell  in  1698,  and  became  the 
headquarters  of  the  standing  army  in 
Arcot  In  1750  the  French  under  M. 
Bussy  captured  it  by  a  skilful  and  dar- 
ingly executed  night-surprise,  and  held 
it  with  an  efficient  garrison  for  eleven 
years,  defeating  one  attack  by  the 
EngUsh  in  1752.] 

98  m.  Villnpuram  juno.  sta.  (B.) 
D.B. 

[Branch  N.W.  to  Vellore  (Rte.  29), 
Tirupati  (Rte.  24),  and  E.  24  m.  to 

Pondichenr  sta.  ifi  (141,000  inhab.), 
capital  of  the  French  possessions  in 
India,  which  have  an  extent  of  178 
sq.  m.,  and  a  pop.  of  280,385.  The 
town,  founded  1674  by  Francois  Mar- 
tin, LB  divided  by  a  canal  into  White 
and  Black  Towns,— the  White  Town 
next  the  sea.  The  Ooverwment  ffoiise,  a 
handsome  building,  is  situated  at  the 
N.  side  of  the  Place,  within  300  yds.  of 
the  sea.  The  means  of  locomotion  here 
is  a  pouase-poitsae,  which  is  like  a  bath- 
chair  pushed  by  one  or  two  men,  and 
glides  along  at  a  great  rate  over  the 
level  streets.  The  Cathedral,  built 
1855,  is  called  Notre  Dame  des  Anges, 
The  Fier  is  150  metres  long.    At  its 


entrance,  ranged  in  a  semidrde^  are 
eight  pillars,  88  ft.  high,  of  a  grayish 
blue  stone,  brought  from  Ginci,  wmcb 
is  40  m.  distant  as  the  crow  fliea.  The 
French  assert  that  these  and  others 
were  given  to  M.  Dupleiz  bv  the 
Governor  of  GingL  On  the  thira  piUar 
on  the  left  side,  uioking  towards  the  sea, 
is  an  astronomical  plan  by  some  as- 
tronomers who  were  directed  to  fix  the 
exact  longitude  of  Pondicherry.  On 
the  next  pillar  is  inscribed  *' Place 
de  la  B^publique."  50  yds.  W.  of 
the  W.  end  of  the  pier  is  £he  sUshu  tf 
DwpUiXy  on  a  pedestal  formed  of  oM 
fragments  of  temples  brooffht  from 
Gingi.  At  a  distance  this  pedestal  has 
anything  but  a  graceful  appearance, 
and  seems  formed  of  logs  of  wood.  On 
the  ledge  is  the  date  1742-54.  Foot 
more  pillars  grace  this  end  of  the  PUui, 
The  band  plays  here  twice  a  week,  and 
there  are  seats  and  a  promenade.  At 
the  S.  end  of  the  promenade  is  the 
Hdtel  de  Vtlle,  a  neat  building,  and  R 
of  this  on  the  beach  is  a  battery  of 
eight  small  guns.  There  is  also  a  Light- 
hm8e,  which  shows  a  light  89  ft.  above 
the  sea.  The  High  Cowrt  (La  Cour 
cPAppel)  ia  a  handsome  square  building. 
A  csmal  separates  the  European  from 
the  Native  Town.  Crossing  this  canal, 
and  turning  to  the  N.,  you  pass  a  lane 
hospital,  built  at  the  expense  of  the 
Comte  de  Richemont.  N,  of  this  is 
the  Missionaries'  Church,  whidi  is 
called  La  Caihidrale  de  hi  Yille  Ndie. 
N.  of  this  again  is  a  school  with  450 
pupils,  on  the  facade  of  whic^  is  in- 
scribed, "  College  Calve  Soupraya  Chet- 
tiyar,"  after  the  founder.  It  is  a  fine 
white  building.  The  Prison  Oine- 
rale,  in  which  are  generally  about  330 
prisoners,  is  opposite  to  the  dock-tower, 
built  at  the  expense  of  a  native  resi- 
dent. Here  isanother  pillar  fit»n  Gingi. 
making  thirteen  in  all.  A  boulevard 
begins  nere  which  goes  round  the  town. 
Continuing  the  drive  and  turning  to 
the  S.E.,  one  may  visit  the  ootton- 
spinning  factory,  or  FUaiure,  called 
Savanah,  and  founded  in  1826*  Here 
IB  an  artesian  well  which  gives  200 
litres  a  minute  of  beautifully  dear 
water.  The  public  gardens  are  tAso 
worth  a  visit. 

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395 


The  places  under  the  authority  of 
Poudicheny  are  Karikal,  south  of  Iran- 
<^Qebar ;  Yanan,  and  the  lodge  of  Masu- 
lipatam ;  Mah4  and  the  lodge  of  Calicut 
on  the  Malabar  coast;  and  Chanda- 
nagar,  in  Bengal,  on  the  Hooghly. 
Pondicheiry  it»elf  has  an  area  of  115 
sq.  m.  The  Governor  receives  1600 
rs.  a  month,  the  Attorney  -  General 
200  rs.,  and  the  four  senior  judges 
400  rs. 

History. 

In  1672  Pondicherry,  then  a  small  vil- 
lage, was  purchased  by  the  French  from 
the  king  of  Vijayanagar,  seventy-one 
years  after  the  first  arrival  of  French 
ships  in  India.  In  1693  the  Dutch  took 
Pondicherry,  but  restored  it,  with  the 
fortifications  greatly  improved,  in  1697, 
at  the  peace  of  Ryswick.  On  the  26th 
of  August  1748  Admiral  Boscawen  laid 
siege  to  it  with  an  army  of  6000  men, 
but  was  compelled  to  raise  the  siege  on 
the  8th  of  October,  with  the  loss  of 
1065  Europeans.  M.  Dupleix  was  the 
Governor,  and  had  under  him  a  garri- 
son of  1800  Europeans  and  2000  Sepoys. 
On  the  29th  of  April  1758  M.  Lally 
landed  at  Pondicherry,  and  commenced 
a  vigorous  war,  which  ended  ruinously 
for  tne  French. 

In  the  beginning  of  July  1760  CoL 
Coote,  with  2000  Europeans,  and  6000 
natives,  began  to  blockade  Pondicherry. 
On  the  9th  of  September  the  English 
army,  having  received  reinforcements, 
carried  the  bound-hedge,  and  two  of 
the  four  redoubts  whicn  defended  it. 
On  the  27th  of  November  M.  Lally, 
finding  the  garrison  hard  pressed  by 
famine,  expelled  all  the  native  inhabit- 
ants from  the  town,  1400  in  number. 
These  being  driven  back  by  the  English, 
attempted  to  re-enter  the  fort,  but  were 
fired  on  by  the  French,  and  some  of 
them  killed.  For  ei^ht  days  these 
unfortunates  wandered  between  the 
lines  of  the  two  hostile  armies,  subsist- 
ing on  the  food  which  they  had  about 
them  and  the  roots  of  n-ass.  At  last, 
finding  Lally  inexoraUe,  the  English 
suffered  them  to  pass.  The  hopes  of 
deliverance  in  the  minds  of  the  French 
were  soon  dispelled  by  the  arrival 
of  fresh  meu-oi-war  from  Ceylon  and 


Madras,  so  that  the  blockading  fleet 
was  again  raised  to  eleven  sail  of  the 
line.  On  16th  Dec.  1760  the  town 
surrendered,  as  the  garrison  was  reduced 
to  1100  men  of  the  Une  fit  for  duty,  and 
these  enfeebled  by  famine  and  fatigue, 
with  but  two  days'  provisions  left. 
In  1763  Pondicherry  was  restored  to 
the  French.  On  9th  Aug.  1778  Su- 
Hector  Munro,  with  an  army  of  10,500 
men,  of  whom  1500  were  Europeans 
again  laid  siege  to  it  On  the  lOth  Sir 
E.  Vernon,  with  four  ships,  fought  an 
indecisive  battle  in  the  roads  with  five 
French  ships  under  M.  Trongolloy, 
who,  some  days  after,  sailed  ofi*  at 
night,  and  left  the  town  to  its  fate. 
Pondicherry,  after  an  obstinate  defence, 
was  surrendered  in  the  middle  of  Octo- 
ber bv  M.  Bellecombe,  the  Governor, 
and  snortly  after  the  fortifications  were 
destroyed.  In  1783  it  was  re-trans- 
ferred to  the  French,  and  on  the  28d 
of  August  1793  retaken  by  the  British. 
The  Treaty  of  Amiens,  1802,  restored  it 
to  its  original  masters,  whereupon  Bona- 
parte sent  thither  General  de  Caen,  with 
seven  other  generals,  1400  regulars,  a 
bodyguard  of  eighty  horse,and  £100,000 
in  specie,  with  a  view,  doubtless,  to  ex- 
tensive operations  in  India.  His  in- 
tentions, nowever,  whatever  they  may 
have  been,  were  defeated  by  the  re- 
occupation  of  Pondicherry  in  1803. 
The  place  was  then  attached  to  S. 
Arcot,  and  yielded  a  yearly  revenue  of 
46,000  rs.  In  1817  it  was  restored  to 
the  French,  and  has  remained  ever 
since  under  their  rule.] 

125  m.  Cuddalore  New  Town  sta. 

127  m.  Cuddalore  Old  Town  sta.  (R. ) 
From  the  former  station.  Fort  St.  David 
can  most  conveniently  be  visited,  and 
it  is  nearest  to  the  public  offices  in  the 
civU  station,  and  the  D.B.  At  the  Old 
Town  station  are  the  railway  work- 
shops, and  the  residences  of  a  consider- 
able number  of  Europeans,  also  the 
church  and  jail.  An  English  manu- 
script, *  *  The  Cuddalore  Obituary, "  kept 
in  the  church  here  is  worth  seeing. 
The  Jail  is  a  new  building.  The 
Church  is  at  Old  Town,  and  is  interest- 
ing on  account  of  the  old  tombs  iu  and 

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about  it.     A  small  church  has  recently 
b«en  built  in  the  New  Town. 

Fort  St.  David  is  interesting  only 
on  account  of  its  history.  From  1691, 
when  it  was  purchased  by  the  E.  I.  Co. , 
it  remained  m  the  hands  of  the  British 
until  1758,  when  it  was  besieged  and 
taken,  after  many  unsuccessful  attempts, 
by  the  French,  only  to  fall  back  into 
British  hands  at  the  peace  of  1783. 
All  that  now  remains  of  the  fort  are 
the  ditch,  almost  filled  up,  the  founda- 
tions of  the  once  strong  ramparts,  and 
some  masses  of  the  fallen  walls. 

144  m.  Porto  Novo  sta.  The  town 
stands  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  river 
Velar,  close  to  the  sea,  and  is  called  b^ 
the  natives,  Mahmud  Bandar  and  Fi- 
rin^pet.  The  Portuguese  settled  here 
durmg  the  latter  part  of  the  16th  century, 
beine  the  first  Europeans  who  landed 
on  the  Coromandel  coast  (see  Manual 
of  S,  Arcot,  by  J.  H.  Garstin,  C.S.) 
In  1678  the  Dutch  abandoned  their 
factory  at  Porto  Novo  and  Devapat- 
nam,  and  went  to  Pulicat 

The  chief  historical  recollection  which 
attaches  to  Porto  Novo  is  that,  mth- 
in  3  m.  of  it  to  the  N.,  close  to  the 
sea-shore,  was  fought  one  of  the  most 
important  Indian  battles  of  the  last 
century.  Sir  Eyre  Coote  had  arrived 
at  Porto  Novo  on  the  19th  of  June 
1781,  after  having  been  repulsed  the 
day  before  in  an  attack  on  tne  fortified 
Pagoda  of  Chidambaram,  which  he  con- 
ducted in  person.  Hyder  'Ali  was 
encouraged  by  the  success  of  his  troops 
on  that  occasion  to  hazard  a  battle, 
and  he  took  up  and  fortified  an  advan- 
tageous position  on  the  only  road  by 
wnich  the  English  could  advance  to 
Cuddalore.  An  account  of  the  battle 
which  ensued  will  be  found  in  Mill, 
vol.  iv.  pp.  209-212.  A  victory  was 
obtained,  of  which  Sir  J.  Malcolm 
speaks  in  the  following  terms :  **If  a 
moment  was  to  be  named  when  the 
ezistenoe  of  the  British  x>ower  depended 
upon  its  native  troops,  we  should  fix 
upon  the  battle  of  Porto  Novo.  Driven 
to  the  sea-shore,  attacked  by  an  enemy 
exulting  in  recent  success,  confident  in 
his  numbers,  and  strong  in  the  terror 


of  his  name,  every  circumstance  com- 
bined that  could  dishearten  the  small 
body  of  men  on  whom  the  fate  of  the 
war  depended.  Not  a  heart  shrank  from 
the  trial.  Of  the  European  battalions 
it  is,  of  course,  superfluous  to  speak, 
but  all  the  native  battalions  appear 
from  every  account  of  the  action  to 
have  been  entitled  to  equal  praise  on 
this  memorable  occasion,  and  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  say  whether  they  were  most 
distinguished  when  suffering  with  a 
patient  courage  under  a  heavy  cannon- 
ade, when  receiving  and  repulsing  the 
shock  of  the  flower  of  Hyder's  cavaliy, 
or  when  attacking  in  their  turn  the 
troops  of  that  monarch,  who,  baffled  in 
all  his  efforts,  retreated  from  this  field 
of  anticipated  conquest  with  the  loss 
of  his  most  celebrated  commander,  and 
thousands  of  his  bravest  soldiers. " 

151  m.  ChidamtMuram  sta.,  D.B.  1^ 
m.  from  sta.     Pop.  20,000. 

The  Pagodas  at  Chidambaram  are 
the  oldest  in  the  S.   of   India,   and 

g»rtions  of  them  are  gems  of  art 
ere  is  placed  by  some  the  N.  fipontier 
of  the  ancient  Chola  Kingdom,  the 
successive  capitals  of  which  were  Uriyur 
on  the  Cauvery,  Eumbhakonam,  and 
Tanjore.  The  principal  temple  is 
sacred  to  Shiva,  and  is  affirmed  to  have 
been  erected,  or  at  least  embellished  by 
Hiranya  Varna  Chakravarti,  "the 
golden-coloured  Emperor,"  who  is  said 
to  have  been  a  leper,  and  to  have  origin- 
ally borne  the  name  of  Swethavanmdi, 
"the  white -coloured,"  on  account  of 
his  leprosy,  and  to  have  come  S.  on  a 
pilgrimage.  He  recovered  at  Chidam- 
baram miraculously,  after  taking  a 
bath  in  the  tank  in  the  centre  of  the 
temple,  and  thereupon  rebuilt  or  en- 
larged the  temples.  He  is  said  to 
have  brought  3000  Brahmans  firom  the 
N.  It  is  stated  in  one  of  the  Mackenzie 
MSS.thatVira  Chola  Raja  (927-77  A.D.) 
saw  the  Sabhapati,  i.e,  Shiva,  dance  on 
the  sea-shore  with  his  wife,  Parbati,  and 
erected  the  Eanak  Sabha,  or  golden 
shrine  in  memory  of  the  god,  who  is 
here  called  Nateaa,  or  Nateshwar, 
"god  of  dancing."  The  whole  area  is 
surrounded  by  two  high  walls,  which 
contain  82  acres. 


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The  outer  wall  of  all  is  1800  ft.  long 
from  N.  to  S.,  and  1480  ft.  from  E.  to 
W.  Nearly  in  the  centre  of  this  vast 
space  is  a  fine  tank,  815  ft.  x  180  ft 
At  the  four  points  of  the  compass  are 
four  vast  gopuras,  those  on  the  N.  and 
S.  being  about  160  ft.  high. 

Near  the  tank  is  the  Hall  of  1000 
Pillars,  which  is  340  ft.  long  and  190 
ft.  broad.  Mr.  Fergusson  (p.  352, 
Hist,  of  Arch.)  makes  the  number  of 
pillars  in  this  hall  984.  This  is  one 
of  the  very  rare  instances  in  India 
where  the  so-called  Hall  of  1000 
Pillars  is  almost  furnished  with  that 
number. 

The  Temple  of  Farbati,  known  as 
Shivagamiamman,  the  wife  of  Shiva, 
is  principallv  remarkable  for  its  porch, 
which  is  of  sin^ar  elegance.^  The 
outer  aisles  of  this  porch  are  5  ft.  6  in. 
wide,  the  next  7  ft.  9  in.,  and  the 
centre  23  ft.  The  roof  is  supported  by 
bracketing  shafts  tied  with  transverse 
purlins  till  only  9  ft.  is  left  to  be 
spanned.  The  outer  enclosure  in  which 
this  temple  stands  is  very  elaborate, 
with  two  stories  of  pillars. 

Adjoining  this  Temple  of  Parbati 
is  one  to  Subrdhmcmyay  the  enclosure 
of  which  is  250  ft.  x  305  ft.  There  is 
the  image  of  apeacock  and  two  elephants 
in  front  of  it,  then  a  portico  witn  four 
pillars  in  front,  with  an  inner  court. 
Fergusson  assigns  the  end  of  the 
I7th  or  beginning  of  the  18th  centuij 
as  the  date  of  this  temple.  There  is 
another  small  one  to  Subrahmanya, 
and  one  to  Ganesh  in  the  comer  of  the 
ffreat  enclosure.  There  is  also  a  man- 
oapam  to  the  S.  of  the  court  of 
Parbati*s  Temple,  and  several  smaller 
mandapams  in  other  parts  of  the  great 
enclosure. 

The  principal  temple  to  Shiva  is  about 
30  yds.  S.  of  the  tank.  In  the  S.W. 
comer  of  this  enclosure  is  a  temple  to 
Parbati,  and  in  the  centre  of  the  S.  side 
an  idol  of  Nateshwar.  In  the  centre 
of  all  is  the  sanctuary,  which' consists 
of  two  parts.  In  this  is  the  most  sacred 
image  of  the  dancing  Shiva,  which  is 
that  of  a  naked  giant  with  four  arms,  his 
ri^ht  leg  planted  on  the  ^ound,  and 
his  left  lifted  sideways.  The  roof  of 
1  Bee  Fergusson,  p.  358.1 


this  building  is  covered  with  plates  of 
gilt  copper.  There  is  also  a  tiny  shrine 
of  which  Mr.  Fergpsson  says :  "  The 
oldest  thing  now  existing  here  is  a  little 
shrine  in  the  small  enclosure  with  a 
little  porch  of  two  pillars  about  6  ft. 
high,  but  resting  on  a  stylobate  orna- 
mented with  dancing  figures,  more 
graceful  and  more  eleganuy  executed 
than  any  other  of  their  class,  so  far  as 
I  know,  in  S.  India.  At  the  sides 
are  wheels  and  horses,  the  whole  being 
intended  to  represent  a  car,  as  is  fre- 
quently the  case  in  these  temples. 
Whitewash  and  modem  alterations 
have  sadly  disfigured  this  gem,  but 
enough  remains  to  show  how  exquisite, 
and  consecjuently  how  ancient,  it  was. 
It  was  dedicated  to  Verma,  the  god  of 
dancing."  This  pagoda  was  surrendered 
to  the  British  in  1760  without  a  shot, 
but  in  1781  Hyder  garrisoned  it  with 
3000  men,  and  Sir  Eyre  Coote  was  re- 
pulsed from  it  with  the  loss  of  one 
gun. 

174  m.  Mayaveram  sta.  The  town,  3 
m.  distant  (23,000  inhab.),  is  a  place  of 
pilgrimage  in  November.  The  Shiva 
Pagoda  has  one  large  gopura  and  one 
small  one.  The  Great  Gopura  stands  at 
the  entrance  on  the  S.  side  of  the  outer 
enclosure,  and  has  ten  stories.  To  the 
W.  of  this  gopura  is  a  Teppa  Kulam, 
N.  of  this  is  the  Small  Gopura  with  six 
stories.  There  is  a  great  manufac- 
ture at  CoranadUf  1  m.  from  here,  of 
cloth,  worn  by  women  of  the  better 
classes. 

More  important  are  the  temples  at 
193  UL  Eumbhakonam  sta.  (B.), 
D.B.,  in  the  Taniore  district,  pop. 
54,000.  The  pagodas  stand  near  the 
centre  of  the  town,  and  about  1  m.  from 
the  station.  The  largest  pagoda  is  dedi- 
cated to  Vishnu,  and  the  Great  Gopura 
here  has  eleven  stories.  Torches  are 
required  in  ascending  it,  as  the  stone 
step  are  very  old,  broken  and  slippery, 
and  there  is  no  rail  to  take  hold  of. 
The  walls  slope  inward,  and  the  floors 
are  of  stone,  and  shake  a  little  with 
the  tread  of  visitors.  The  total  height 
is  not  less  than  147  ft.    From  the  win- 


d  by  Google 


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India 


dows  a  good  view  is  obtained,  bat  the 
interior  of  the  temple  has  nothing 
remarkable.  A  street  arched  over 
and  830  ft  lon^  and  15  ft.  broad, 
with  shops  on  eitner  side,  leads  to  the 
Shiva  Pagoda,  or  Temple  of  Kumbesh- 
wara. 

The  Mahamokam  Tank. — At  J  m.  to 
the  S.E.  of  the  pagodas  is  a  fine  tank, 
into  which  it  is  said  the  Ganges  flows 
once  in  twelve  years,  the  last  occasion 
being  in  1897.  On  these  occasions 
so  vast  a  concourse  of  people  enter 
the  water  to  bathe  that  t>e  snrfaoe 
rises  some  inches.  The  tank  has  six- 
teen small  but  picturesque  pagodas 
studding  its  banks.  Tne  principal 
one  is  on  the  N.  side  of  the  tank,  and 
on  its  ceiling  is  represented  in  alto- 
relievo  the  balance  m  which  a  certain 
Ocvind  DichU  was  weighed  againstgold, 
which  was  then  given  to  the  Brah- 
mans.  This  worthy  is  represented 
sitting  in  one  scale,  while  a  huge  sack 
of  money  fills  the  other. 

The  Oovemmmt  College  at  Kumbha- 
konam  was  formerly  one  of  the  best 
educational  institutions  in  India,  and 
prociU"ed  for  the  town  the  distinction  of 
being  called  the  Cambridge  of  Southern 
India;  it  has  deteriorated  somewhat. 
There  are  but  few  Europeans  here. 

217  m.  TANJOBE  June.  sta.  (R.), 
D.B.,30t  [Branch  48  m.  E.  to  Negapa- 
tarn  for  Rameswaram,  see  below].  Pop. 
54,000.  The  delta  of  the  Cauvery 
river,  near  the  head  of  which  Tanjore 
stands,  is  considered  the  garden  of 
Southern  India.  It  canies  a  dense 
population,  and  is  highly  irrigated. 

The  Tanjore  country  was  under  the 
Cholasduring  the  whole  of  their  suprem- 
acy. Maratha  Venkaji  the  brother  of 
Shivajithe  Great,  reduced  Tanjore,  pro- 
claimed himself  independent,  and  estab- 
lished a  Maratha  dynasty,  which  lasted 
till  1799.  The  British  first  came  into 
contact  with  Tanjore  by  their  expedi- 
tion in  1749,  with  a  view  to  the  restora- 
tion of  a  deposed  Raja. 

Tanjore  was  the  last  capital  of  the 
Chola  dynasty.  In  1758  it  was  attacked 
by  the  French  under  Lally,  who  ex- 
torted large  sums  from  the  reigning 
Maratha  Raja.      Col.    Joseph   Smith 


captured  the  Fort  in  1773,  and  i^ain 
in  1776  it  was  occupied  by  the  Engnaih, 
Raja  Sharabhoji,  by  a  treaty  in  1779, 
ceded  the  de^jenaent  territoiy  to  the 
British,  retaining  only  the  capital  and  a 
small  tract  of  country  around,  whidi 
also  at  last  lapsed  to  the  Government 
in  1855,  on  the  death  of  the  then  ruler 
without  legitimate  male  issue. 

The  LUtle  Fort  contains  the  Ctreai 
Pagoda,  which  with  the  palace  of  the 
Raja  in  the  Great  Fort  and  Schwartz's 
Church  are  the  sights  of  Tanjore.  The 
two  Forts  of  Tanjore,  which  are  much 
dismantled,  are  so  connected  that  they 
may  be  almost  regarded  as  one. 

The  Great  Pagoda. — The  entrance  is 
under  a  ^opura.  Then  follow  a  passage 
170  ft.  long,  and  a  second  gopura  of 
smaller  dimensions.  There  appear  to 
be  six  stones  in  the  outer  gopura  and 
four  in  the  inner,  and  their  height  may 
be  reckoned  at  about  90  and  60  ft.  re- 
spectively. There  is  a  long  inscription 
in  Tamil  characters  of  the  4th  century 
on  either  side  of  the  passa^  through 
the  second  gopura.  After  this  the  outer 
enclosure  of  the  pagoda,  415  ft.  x  800 
ft.,  is  entered.  On  the  rt.  is  the 
YajoMila,  a  place  where  sacrifices  are 
offered,  and  the  Sabhapati  Kovil,  or 
Shrine  of  Shiva,  as  the  presiding  god 
of  an  assembly.  There  are  two  Bali- 
pirams,  or  altars,  close  to  the  E.  wall,  one 
inside  and  one  outside ;  and  at  about 
40  ft.  to  the  W.  of  this  £.  wall  is  a 
gimoiiicNandi  in  black  granite, a  mono- 
lith 12  ft.  10  in.  high.  W.  of  this  is 
the  Kodi  MaTXLrru  A  portico  supported 
by  three  rows  of  pillars  leads  to  two 
halls  75  ft.  X  70  ft.  each.  In  the  centre 
of  the  wall  of  an  adjoining  passage 
is  the  entrance  to  the  square  adytum. 
Within  this  is  a  second  enclosure  56  ft;. 
X  54  ft.,  and  over  the  whole  is  super- 
imposed the  vast  tower  of  the  vimanah, 
200  ft.  high,  including  the  Shikr,  or 
sT>iked  ornament.  N.E.  of  the  Great 
Tower  is  the  Climdikasan  Kovil,  or 
shrine  of  the  god  who  reports  to  the 
ciiief  god  tlie  arrival  of  worshippers. 
Beyond  this,  at  the  N.W.  comer  of  the 
outer  enclosure,  is  the  StUnnhmanya 
Kovil,  Shrine  of  Karttikeya,^  the  son  of 
Shiva  and  deity  of  war^  who  is  called 

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ROUTE  31.      DAKJORE 


Sabraliinanya  (fix)m  sw,  cood,  brahman, 
a  Brahman),  because  ne  is  so  good 
to  Brahmans  and  their  especial  pro- 
tector. 

Fcrgusson  sajrs  of  this  wonderfal 
shrine  that  it  '*  is  as  exquisite  a  piece 
of  decorative  architecture  as  is  te  be 
found  in  the  S.  of  India,  and  though 
small,  almost  divides  our  admiration 
with  the  temple  itself."  It  consists  of 
a  tower  55  ft  high,  raised  on  a  base 
45  ft.  squarej  adorned  with  pillars  and 
pilasters,  which  ornament  is  continued 
along  a  corridor  50  ft.  long,  communi- 
cating  with  a  second  building  50  ft. 
square  to  the  £. 

Dr.  Bumell  considers  the  Subrah- 
manya  Temple  to  be  not  older  than  the 
commencement  of  the  16th  century. 
Its  beautiful  carving  seems  to  be  in 
imitation  of  wood. 

The  base  of  the  grand  temple,  i.e, 
the  vimanah  and  halls  leading  to  it,  is 
covered  with  inscriptions  in  the  old 
Tamil  of  the  11th  century,  which  Dr. . 
BnmeU  deciphered.  The  pyramidal 
tower  over  the  vimanah  has  evidently 
often  been  repaired  in  its  upper  part, 
where  the  ima^  of  gods  and  demons 
with  which  it  is  covered  are  now  only 
of  cement  This  tower  is  only  48 
ft.  lower  than  the  Kutb  Minar  at 
Delhi 

Dr.  Bumell  says  in  his  pamphlet. 
The  Great  Temple  of  Tanjore:  **This 
temple  is  really  the  most  remarkable 
of  all  the  temples  in  the  extreme  S.  of 
India  ;  is  one  of  the  oldest ;  and  as  it 
has  been  preserved  with  little  altera- 
tion, if  not,  perhaps,  the  largest,  it  is 
the  best  specunen  of  the  style  of  archi- 
tecture peculiar  to  India  S.  of  Madras. 

"  This  style  arose  imder  the  Chola  (or 
Tanjore)  kings  in  the  11th  century  a.d., 
when  nearly  all  the  great  temples  to 
Shiva  in  S.  India  were  built,  and  it  con- 
tinned  in  use  in  the  12th  and  18th 
centuries,  during  which  the  great 
temples  to  Vishnu  were  erected.  Up 
to  ttie  beginning  of  the  16th  century 
these  temples  remained  almost  un- 
changed, but  at  that  time  all  S.  India 
became  subject  to  the  kings  of  Vija- 
yanagar,  and  one  of  these,  named  Erish- 
narsya  (1509-30),  rebuilt  or  added  to 
most   of  the  great  temples  of  the  S. 


The  chief  feature  of  the  architecture  of 
this  later  period  ia  the  construction  of 
the  enormous  gopuras  which  are  so 
conspicuous  at  Conjeveram,  Chidam- 
baram, and  Seringham.  All  these 
were  built  by  Erisnnaraya ;  they  do 
not  form  part  of  the  original  style,  but 
were  intended  as  fortifications  to  pro- 
tect the  shrines  from  foreign  invaders, 
and  certain  plunder  and  desecration, 
as  the  Hindus  first  discovered  on  the 
Mohammedan  invasion  of  1310  A.D.'* 

The  Palace  of  the  Princess  of  Tan- 
jore. —This  building  is  in  the  Great  Fort 
The  entrance  is  in  the  E.  wall,  f  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.  There  is  a  masonry 
bridge  over  the  first  ditch,  which  is 
there  about  100  ft  broad.  The  palace 
is  a  vast  building  of  masonry,  and 
stands  on  the  left  of  the  street,  which 
runs  northward  through  the  Fort ;  it 
was  built  about  1550  a.d.  After  pass- 
ing through  two  quadrangles  a  third 
is  entered,  on  the  S.  side  of  which 
is  a  building  like  a  gopura,  90  ft. 
high,  with  eight  stories.  It  was  once 
an  armoury.  Mr.  Fergusson  says  of 
this  tower :  *  *  As  you  approach  Tanjore, 
you  see  two  peat  vimanahs  not  unlike 
each  other  m  dimensions  or  outline, 
and  at  a  distance  can  hardly  distinguish 
which  belongs  to  the  great  temple. 
On  close  inspection,  however,  that  of 
the  palace  turns  out  to  be  made  up  of 
dumpy  pilasters  and  fat  balusters,  and 
ill-designed  mouldings  of  Italian  archi- 
tecture, mixed  up  with  a  few  details  of 
Indian  art !  a  more  curious  and  taste- 
less jumble  could  hardly  be  found  in 
Calcutta  or  Lucknow. "  On  the  E.  of  the 
quadrangle  is  the  Teltigu  Darhar-room, 
Here  is  a  platform  of  black  ^nite. 
On  the  sides  are  sculptured  m  alto- 
relievo  Surs  and  Asurs  fighting.  On 
this  platform  stands  a  white  marble 
statue  of  Sharfoji,  the  pupil  of  Schwartz, 
and  the  last  R^a  but  one.  He  is 
standing  with  the  palms  of  his  hands 
joined  as  if  in  prayer,  and  he  wears  the 
curious  triangular  pointed  cap  used  by 
the  Tanjore  princes  in  the  last  half  cen- 
tury of  theur  rule.  The  statue  is  by 
Flaxman,  and  is  a  good  specimen  of 
that  peat  artist's  work.  On  the  wall 
is  a  picture  of  Lord  Pigot. 

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ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNEVELLY 


IndiA 


There  are  also  numerous  pictures  of 
the  B^'as.  In  the  same  quadrangle  is 
the  Library f  in  which  is  a  remarkable 
collection  of  18,CM)0  Sanscrit  MSS.,  of 
which  8000  are  written  on  j»lm  leaves. 
This  library  is  unique,  and  in  India,  at 
least,  nothing  at  au  equal  to  it  is  to  be 
found  as  regaras  Sanscrit :  it  dates  from 
the  end  of  the  16th  or  beginning  of  the 
17th  century.  After  this  the  visitor 
may  go  to  tne  MarcUha  Darbar^  which 
is  in  another  quadran|^le.  Here  is  a 
large  picture  of  Shivaji,  the  last  Raja, 
with  his  chief  secietary  on  his  right, 
and  lus  Diwan  on  his  left.  Remark 
also  a  fine  bust  of  Nelson,  presented  to 
the  Raja  by  the  Hon.  Anne  Seymour 
Darner,  whose  work  it  is. 

SchvxMrtz*8  Church  is  in  the  Little 
Fort,  close  to  the  Shivagan^  Tank. 
Over  the  gate  is  the  date  1777,  and 
over  the  facade  of  its  church  is  1779 
A.D.  In  the  centre,  opposite  the  com- 
munion-table, is  a  very  fine  group  of 
figures  in  white  marble,  by  Flazman, 
representing  the  death  of  Schwartz. 
The  aged  missionary  is  extended  on 
his  bed,  and  on  his  left  stands  the  Ri^a 
Sharfoji,  his  pupil,  with  two  attendants, 
while  on  lus  right  is  the  missionary 
Eohlner,  and  near  the  bottom  of  the 
bed  are  four  boys.  The  inscription 
contains  a  summary  of  his  career.  The 
small  house  N.W.  of  the  church,  and 
close  to  it,  is  said  to  have  been  Schwartz's 
habitation. 

Next  to  the  Shivaganga  Tank  is  the 
People* 8  Park,  In  the  English  Church 
there  is  a  handsome  tablet  to  Schwartz, 
and  in  the  cemetery  adjoining  Lord 
Hastings  was  buried. 

Tanjore  district  was  the  scene  of  the 
earliest  labours  of  Protestant  mission- 
aries in  India.  In  1706  the  German 
missionaries  Ziegenbalg  and  Plutschau 
established  a  Lutheran  mission  in  the 
Danish  settlement  of  Tranauebar,  under 
the  patronage  of  King  Frederick  IV.  of 
Denmark  ;  and  in  1841  their  establish- 
ments were  taken  over  b^  the  Leipzig 
Evangelical  Lutheran  Mission,  which 
subsequently  extended  its  operations 
into  the  district.  The  mission  at 
Tanjore  was  founded  in  1778  by  the 
R^v.  0.  F.  Schwartz  of  the  Tranauebar 
Mission,  who  some  time  previously  had 


transferred  his  services  to  the  Society 
for  Promoting  Christian  Knowledga 
The  mission  establishments  at  TaBijon 
were  taken  over  in  1826  by  the  Society 
for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel, 
which  subsequently  founded  new  sta- 
tions in  several  parts  of  the  district 

Roman  Catholic  missions  in  Tanjore 
date  from  the  first  half  of  the  17th 
century.  Their  churches  and  cha^ 
are  scattered  over  the  whole  distnct, 
but  their  principal  seatsare  Negapatam, 
Velanganni  (on  the  coast,  6  m.  souA 
of  Neffapatam),  Tanjore,  Vallam,  and 
Kumbhakonam.  The  St  Joseph's 
College,  which  was  founded  in  184« 
by  the  French  Jesuits  at  Ne^patam, 
was  removed  to  Trichinopoty  m  1883. 

Taiyore  is  famous  for  its  artistic 
manuractures,  including  silk  carpets, 
jewellery,  r&poussi  wor^  copper  ware, 
and  curious  models  in  pith  and  other 
materials. 

[Negapatam  (R.)  48  m.  E.  from 
Tamjore  on  branch  line.  A  flourishing 
port  on  the  Coromandel  Coast  doing  i 
brisk  trade  with  the  Straits  Settlements 
and  Coast  Ports.  Contains  the  laroe 
Workshops  of  the  South  Indian  Bui 
way.  Negapatam  was  one  of  the 
earliest  Settlements  of  the  Portuguese. 
It  was  taken  by  the  Dutch  in  1660  and 
by  the  English  in  1781.    From  Ncgi- 

rtam  steamers  belonging  to  the  B.  I. 
N.  Company  run  once  a  week  to 
Colombo  md  PaSk  Strait  and  Piumben, 
which  is  on  the.  mainland  opposite 

Bameswaram,  a  low  sandy  island  is 
the  narrow  straits  between  Cevlon  and 
India,   containing   one  of  the  moA 
venerated   Hindu  Shrines  in  Indi^ 
founded   according   to    tradition  ^ 
Riuna  himself.     It  is  associated  wit 
Rama's  journey  to  Ceylon  in  sesrcb  i 
Sita,  and  plays  an  important  part  I 
the   BamayaiuL,    For   centuries  til 
temple  has  been  the  object  of  pil^ 
ages  from  all  parts  of  India.     It  is  I 
their  control  of  the  passage  from  tl 
mainland  that  the  Cniefs  of  BanuK 
owe  their  hereditary  title  of  Setopal 
**  Lord  of  the  Causeway." 

The  island  is  to  a  great  extel 
covered  with  lahlU  (Acada  araHi 
trees.  It  is  principally  inhabited  1 
Brahmans  and  their  followers,  who  i 

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ROUTE  31.       TRICHINOPOLY 


401 


supported  by  the  profits  derived  from 
the  temples.  Soutn  of  the  great  temple 
is  a  fresh-water  lake,  about  three  miles 
in  circnmference. 

The  great  Temple  stands  on  rising 
ground  in  the  northern  part  of  the 
islandi  in  a  quadrangular  enclosure 
657  feet  broad  by  about  1000  feet 
long,  and  is  entered  by  a  gateway  100 
feet  high.  The  height  of  the  temple 
is  about  120  feet.  With  its  majestic 
towers,  its  vast  and  gloomy  colonnades, 
and  its  walls  encrusted  with  carved 
work  and  statuary,  it  is  a  grand 
example  of  the  Dravidian  style.  The 
best  and  oldest  portion  is  built  of  a 
dark,  hard  limestone,  to  which  there  is 
nothing  similar  in  the  rest  of  the  build- 
ing. Local  tradition  asserts  that  it 
was  erected  by  the  Vara  Raja,  Sekkarar, 
of  Kandy,  with  stone  cut  and  polished 
in  Ceylon.  Its  cost  is  said  to  have 
been  defrayed  by  the  seaport  dues 
of  all  the  coast  towns  of  the  estate, 
during  the  year  that  it  was  building. 
Note  the  massiveness  of  the  workman- 
ship (slabs  of  40  feet  long  being  used 
in  the  doorways  and  ceilings),  and  the 
wonderful  pillared  halls  which  sur- 
round the  inner  shrine. 

Ferpisson  says,  "  If  it  were  proposed 
to  sewct  one  temple  which  should 
exhibit  all  the  beauties  of  the  Dravidian 
style  in  their  ^eaitest  perfection,  and 
at  the  same  time  exemplify  all  its 
characteristic  defects  of  design,  the 
choice  would  almost  inevitably  fall 
upon  that  at  Rameswaram.  In  no 
other  temple  has  the  same  amount  of 
patient  industry  been  exhibited  as 
here;  and  in  none,  unfortunately, 
has  that  labour  been  so  thrown  away 
^r  want  of  a  design  appropriate  to  its 
display.  While  the  temple  at  Tanjore 
produces  an  effect  greater  than  is  due 
to  its  mass  or  detail,  this  one,  with 
double  its  dimensions  and  ten  times 
its  elaboration,  produces  no  effect  ex- 
ternally, and  internally  can  only  be 
wen  in  detail,  so  that  the  parts  hardly 
in  any  instance  aid  one  another  in  pro- 
ducing the  effect  aimed  at. 

"The  glory  of  the  temple  is  in  its 

corridors.    These   extend   to  a    total 

length  of  nearly  4,000    feet.     Their 

breadth  varies  from  20  feet  to  30  feet 

[India^ 


of  free  floor  space,  and  their  height  is 
apparently  about  30  feet  from  the  floor 
to  the  centre  of  the  roof.  Each  pillar 
or  pier  is  compound,  and  richer  and 
more  elaborate  in  design  than  those  of 
the  parvati  porch  at  Chidambaram, 
and  certainly  more  modem  in  date. 

"  None  of  our  English  cathedrals  are 
more  than  500  feet  long,  and  even  the 
nave  of  St.  Peter's  is  only  600  feet 
from  the  door  to  the  apse.  Here  the 
side  corridors  are  700  feet  long  and 
open  into  transverse  galleries  as  rich 
in  detail  as  themselves.  These,  with 
the  varied  devices  and  modes  of  light- 
ing, produce  an  effect  that  is  not 
equalled  certainly  anywhere  in  India." 

The  temple,  its  ceremonies,  and  its 
attendant  Brahmins  are  maintained 
from  the  revenue  of  67  villages,  yield- 
ing an  annual  income  of  about  £4500, 
granted  by  former  Rajas  of  the  Ramnad 
ZeTninddH.  The  lingam  is  supposed 
to  have  been  placed  here  by  Rama  ;  it 
is  washed  with  Ganges  water,  which  is 
afterwards  sold.] 

248  m.  Trlchinopoly  junc.  sta.  (R.) 
lOc  (branch  W.  to  Erode,  Rte.  30), 
D. B.  Pop.  91,000.  St.  John's  Church 
is  close  to  the  station.  The  two 
historic  masses  of  granite,  the  Golden 
Rock  and  the  Fakir's  Rock,  are  in  the 
plain  to  the  S.  Close  to  the  former  is 
the  Central  Jail.  Near  it  the  French 
were  defeated  in  two  engagements. 

251  m.  Trichinopoly  Fort  sta.  on 
the  Brode  Branch,  which  runs  87  m. 
to  the  N.W.,  and  joins  the  Madras 
Railway  at  Erode.  The  Fort  has  been 
dismantled,  but  this  part  of  the  town 
is  still  known  as  "the  Fort." 

In  November  1753  the  French  made 
a  night  attack  on  the  Fort,  and  succeeded 
in  entering  the  outer  line  of  fortifica- 
tions at  Dalton's  Battery  at  the  N.W. 
angle.  Here  there  was  a  pit  30  ft.  deep, 
into  which  many  of  the  assailants  fell. 
Their  screams  alarmed  the  garrison,  vho 
repelled  them,  and  made  360  of  the 
French  prisoners.  This  portion  of  the 
Old  Fort  is  all  that  has  been  left 
standing.  The  moat  that  surrounded 
it  has  been  filled  in  and  planted  as  a 
boulevard. 

On  the  N.  side  of  the  town,  with  a 
temple   on    it,    is    the    Bock.     The 

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402 


ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNEVELLY 


India 


entrance  to  the  covered  passage  which 
leads  up  to  the  top  la  on  the  S. 
side,  and  on  the  sides  of  the  passage 
are  stone  elephants  and  pillars  about 
18  ft.  high,  which  bear  the  stamp 
of  Jain  architecture.  The  pillars  have 
carved  capitals  representing  the  lion 
of  the  S.,  and  various  figures  of  men 
and  women.  The  frieze  above  is  orna- 
mented with  carvings  of  animals. 
Flights  of  very  steep  steps,  290  in 
number,  coloured  white  with  red 
stripes,  lead  through  this  passage 
to  the  vestibule  of  a  Shivite  temple, 
whence  on  certain  days  the  images  of 
the  gods  —  viz.  of  Shiva,  Parbati, 
GaneSi,  and  Subrahmanya,  or  Skanda 
— are  carried  in  procession.  There  is  a 
huge  Nandi  Bull  covered  with  silver 
plates,  which  must  be  very  valuable. 
The  steps  of  the  ascent  were  the  scene 
of  a  frightful  disaster  in  1849.  A  vast 
crowdhad  assembled  to  worship  Ganesh, 
who  is  here  ciJled  Pilliar,  or  "  the  son." 
A  panic  arose,  and  in  the  crush  which 
ensued  500  people  were  killed.  Other 
staircases  in  the  £.  portion  of  the  Rock 
lead  to  a  mandapam,  or  pavilion, 
whence,  as  well  as  from  the  rocky 
platform  itself,  there  is  one  of  the 
finest  panoramic  views  to  be  seen  in 
the  plains  of  India.  On  all  sides 
the  eye  traverses  the  plain  for  20  or 
80  m.  The  height  of  the  Rock  is 
only  286  ft.,  but  the  plain  is  so  flat 
that  this  height  is  sufficient  to  domin- 
ate a  vast  expanse  of  country.  On 
the  S.  the  mc«t  conspicuous  object  is 
the  Golden  Bock,  about  100  ft.  high. 
At  the  foot  of  it,  to  the  W.,  is  the 
Central  Jail,  Within  the  town,  distant 
only  a  few  hundred  yards,  is  the 
Nawab's  Palace,  which  has  been  restored 
by  Grovemment  and  is  used  for  courts 
and  public  offices.  Carrying  the  eye  to 
the  S.E.  of  this  rock,  a  patch  of  low 
hills  is  seen,  the  highest  not  being  above 
40  ft.  This  is  French  Bocks,  about  2  m. 
from  the  Fort.  To  the  N.  of  the  Fort 
Rock  is  the  broad  shallow  bed  of  the 
Cauvery,  in  which,  except  in  the  rains, 
there  is  but  a  narrow  streak  of  water. 
Beyond  is  the  Island  of  Seringhmn, 
which  the  French  occupied  for  several 
years,  taking  up  their  quarters  in  the 
two  great  temples,  that  of  Servngham 


to  the  W.,  and  that  of  Jambukeshwar 
to  the  E.  The  island  is  17  m.  long  by 
about  1}  m.  broad,  and  Serii^an 
temple  is  5  m.  from  the  W.  extremity, 
but  owin^  to  dense  groves  the  temples 
are  not  distinctly  seen.  Beyond  to  the 
N.  in  the  far  distance  rises  a  long  line 
of  hills.  To  the  N.W.  is  the  Talc 
Malai  range,  the  greatest  height  of 
which  is  1800  ft.  ;  while  due  N.  of  the 
Fort  Rock  are  the  Kale  Malai  Hills, 
which  attain  4000  ft.  ;  and  E.  of  these 
are  the  Pach^  Malais,  which  in  some 
parts  rise  to  2300  ft.  Turning  to  tiie 
W.  the  old  town  of  Wariur  is  seen, 
where  there  was  once  a  cantonment 
At  the  foot  of  the  Fort  Rock  is  a  hand- 
some Teppa  Eulam  tank  with  stone 
steps  and  a  mandapam,  or  temple,  in 
the  centre.  At  the  S.E.  comer  of  this 
tank  are  a  square  comer -house,  and  I 
adjoining  a  house  with  a  porch.  In  I 
one  of  these  Clive  lived,  but  it  is  not  | 
certain  in  which. 

The  JaiL — ^Trichinopoly  Central  Jail 
is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  Madras 
Presidency.  It  stands  well  on  rising 
ground  about  2  m.  S.  of  St.  John's 
Church,  with  a  hill  popularly  cailled 
the  Golden  Rock  about  400  vds. 
from  its  N.E.  comer.  An  order  mm 
the  superintendent  is  required  to  viat 
the  jail. 

Other  obiects  of  interest  are  the  Ba^ 
at  the  Judffe's  Court  in  which  JBishcp 
Heber  ^  died— -the  spot  is  marked  by  a 
tablet  erected  by  the  €k)vemment  of 
Madras — ^and  Chanda  SdhiVs  Tomb,  ai 
the  shrine  of  NaJUtr  Aulicu  This  latter 
appears  to  be  built  from  materiak  of 
Hindu  temples,  and  may  date  from 
the  invasion  of  Malik  Eafor  in  1310. 
There  are  an  S.P.G.  College  and  i 
Jesuit  College  here. 

The  most  important  local  Induatria 
are  weaving,  and  tobacco  and  agar 
making.  The  cigars  are  weU  known. 
though  the  so-called  Triehinopolj 
cheroots  come  for  the  most  part  frcn 
Dindigal.  The  silver  and  gold  maim- 
faotures  are  famous  ;  the  local  gold  and 
silver  smiths  being  very  suecesRful  ii 
their  nligree-work. 

About  2  m.  N.  from  the  Rock,  <m  a 

1  See  his  JAft  by  Dr.  George  Smith  (189ft 
chap.  xiii. 


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ROUTE  31.      TRICHINOPOLY 


403 


kland  formed  by  a  bifurcation  of  the 
river  Cauvery,  is  the  town  of  Sering- 
ham  (20,000  inhab.)  A  bridge  of 
32  arches  joins  the  mainland  to  the 
island. 

The  Great  Temple  of  Sri  Bangam 
is  about  1  m.  N.  W.  of  the  bridge. 
The  entrance  fix>m  Trichinopoly  is  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  temple,  by  a  grand 
gateway,  which  appears  to  have  been 
built  as  the  base  of  a  great  gopura. 
This  gateway  is  48  ft.  high  from  the 
ground  to  its  terraced  rooL  The  sides 
of  the  passage  are  lined  with  pilasters, 
and  ornamented.  The  passage  is  about 
100  ft.  long,  and  the  inner  height,  ex- 
clusive of  the  roof,  is  43  ft.  Vast  mono- 
liths have  been  used  as  uprights  in  the 
oonstruction,  some  of  them  over  40  ft. 
high.  The  stones  on  the  roof  laid  hori- 
zontally  are  also  vast.  The  stone  on  the 
inside  of  the  arch  is  29  ft.  7  in.  long, 
4  ft.  5  in.  broad,  and  about  8  ft.  thicK. 
There  are  two  pilasters  in  the  gateway, 
with  an  inscription  in  Tamil  characters. 
From  the  terrace  at  the  top  of  the  gate- 
way is  seen  the  vast  outer  wall  which 
encloses  the  gardens  as  well  as  the  build- 
ing of  this  the  largest  temple  in  India. 
This  outer  enclosure,  2475  ft.  x  2880  ft., 
contains  a  bazaar.  Within  this  is  a 
second  wall  20  ft.  high  enclosing  the 
dwellings  of  the  Brahmans  in  the  service 
of  the  temple.  The  general  desi^  is 
marred  by  the  fact  thisit  the  buildings 
diminish  in  size  and  importance  from 
the  exterior  to  the  innermost  enclosure ; 
and  Fergusson  says,  ^' If  its  principle 
of  design  could  be  reversed,  it  would  be 
one  of  the  finest  temples  in  the  S.  of 
India."  There  are  two  great  gopuras 
on  the  E.  side,  two  smaller  on  ttie  W., 
and  three  of  a  medium  height  on  the  S. 
Advancing  from  the  Trichinopoly  side, 
the  traveller  passes  under  a  small 
mandapam,  and  then  through  a  gopura 
abont  60  ft.  high.  The  ceilings  of  the 
gopuras  are  all  painted,  and  the  ceiling 
of  this  one  represents  the  Varahah,  or 
Boar  Incarnation,  of  Vishnu,  as  well 
as  other  Avataras  with  multitudes  of 
human  beings  adoring  them.  The 
colours  are  well  preserv^  After  this  a 
second  mandapam  is  passed  under  and 
a  second  and  third  gopura.  Hard  by 
is  another  enclosing  wall,  which  sur- 


rounds the  more  sacred  part,  or  real 
temple,  beyond  which  is  the  vimanah, 
or  adytum,  which  none  but  Hindus 
are  allowed  to  enter. 

At  a  third  mandapam  the  jewels  of 
the  temple  may  be  examined.  Observe 
three  ornaments  called  Venkalatha 
Padukam,  of  which  two  are  of  diamonds 
and  emeralds,  and  the  third  of  diamonds 
and  rubies.  One  of  these  is  valued 
at  35,000  rs.  There  are  also  several 
coverings  for  the  hands  and  feet  of 
idols  of  gold  studded  with  jewels,  as 
well  as  large  rings  for  the  toes.  Ob- 
serve too  chains  of  gold  of  local  manu- 
facture, which  are  as  flexible  as  string, 
and  a  golden  bowl  said  to  be  worth 
11,600  rs.  There  are  also  chains  of 
gold,  5-franc  pieces,  and  others  of  gold 
5-rupee  pieces. 

In  the  court  round  the  central  en- 
closure is  the  so-called  Hall  of  1000 
Pillars,  (Fer^sson  counted  960,  but 
the  number  is  now  much  reduced.) 
They  are  granite  monoliths  18  ft.  high, 
with  pediments,  slightly  carved  to  the 
height  of  3  ft.,  and  they  all  have  the 
plantain  bracket  at  top.  The  pillars 
of  the  front  row  looking  N.  represent 
men  on  rearing  horses  spearing  ti^i-s, 
the  horses*  feet  su^jported  by  the  shields 
of  men  on  foot  beside  them.  After  this 
the  great  gopura  which  is  on  the  N.  may 
be  visited;  The  total  height  is  152  ft. 
In  the  floor  of  the  passage  under  this 
gopura  is  a  stone  with  a  Eanarese  in- 
scription. With  the  exception  of  the 
pillars  with  supporters  carved  in  the 
shape  of  horsemen,  there  is  nothing 
that  can  be  called  interesting.  The 
gopuras  are  clumsily  built,  and,  not- 
withstanding their  enormous  bulk, 
shake  with  l£e  steps  of  a  few  men.  Mr. 
Fergusson  is  of  opinion  that  the  build- 
ing was  commenced  about  1700  a.d.^ 
A  Mela  (religious  fair)  is  held  here 
every  winter. 

Temple  of  Jambukeshwar. — In  the 
S.  of  India  temples  are  often  found  in 
pairs.  If  there  is  one  dedicated  to 
Vishnu,  there  will  be  one  dedicated  to 
Shiva.  So  here,  at  about  1 J  m.  from 
the  Great  Temple  of  Seringham,  is  a 
smaller  one  sacred  to  Jambukeshwar, 

1  See  his  Ind.  Archit,  where  there  is  an 
illustration  and  description  of  the  temples. 

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ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNBVELLY 


India 


or  Shiva,  from  Jcmbuka,  *  *  rose-apple, " 
and  ishwar  "lord,"  or  Lord  of  India, 
Jamba  being  a  division  of  the  world, 
"India,"  and  Ishwar,  "deity." 

The  Jambokeshwar  temple  has  three 
oourts,  is  very  much  smaller  than  that 
of  Seringham,  and  has  now  a  neglected, 
deserted  look.  The  plan,  however,  of 
the  building  is  more  artistic,  and  the 
main  corridor  and  proportions  are  fine. 
On  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  an 
upright  stone  4  ft.  high,  with  a  lon^ 
Tamil  inscription.  The  first  gopura  is 
also  'the  gateway  of  entrance.  The 
ceiling  is  paintea  with  flowers  of  the 
lotus.  Within  the  inner  court  is  a 
remarkable  Tep^M  Kulam,  or  tank,  of 
spring  water  with  a  pavilion  in  tho 
centre.  Round  the  S.,  the  E.,  and 
the  N.  sides  runs  a  corridor  of  two 
stories  supported  by  pillars.  Beyond 
this  is  a  second  gopura,  and  a  third 
which  forms  part  of  the  wall  enclosing 
the  adytum.  Thence  a  fine  corridor 
leads  to  the  vimanah.  On  the  whole, 
this  is  a  very  fine  Temple,  and  well 
worth  a  visit.  It  is,  no  doubt,  older 
than  that  of  Seringham,  probably  about 
1600. 

The  Anikuts,  or  dams. — ^The  Cauvery, 
about  9  m.  to  the  W.  of  Trichinopoly, 
and  a  Uttle  to  the  W.  of  the  W. 
extremity  of  Seringham  island,  separ- 
ates into  two  branches  which  enclose 
the  island,  the  N.  branch  being  called 
the  Coleroon  or  Koliduny  and  the  S. 
the  Cauvery.  It  had  long  been  observed 
that  the  1^  channel  was  deepening  and 
the  S.  becoming  more  and  more  shallow, 
and  lest  the  Tanjore  Collectorate  should 
thus  be  deprived  of  water  sufficient  for 
irrigation,  a  dam  was  constructed  across 
the  Coleroon  in  1886.  In  June  the 
S.W.  monsoon  causes  the  Cauvery  to 
swell,  and  in  July  and  August  it  be- 
comes a  mighty  river,  and  dwindles  to 
a  small  stream  in  September  and  Oc- 
tober, rising  again  in  November  with 
the  N.E.  monsoon.  After  parting  with 
the  Coleroon,  it  sends  off  a  number  of 
branches  which  irriffata  Tanjore,  the 
chief  one  being  oallea  the  Yennar,  and 
then  falls  into  the  sea  20  m.  S.  of  the 
spot  where  the  Coleroon  disembomies. 
The  Upper  Anikut  constructed  by 
Colonel  Cotton  has  been  completely 


successful  in  preventing  an  excess  of 
water  entering  the  Coleroon.  It  con- 
sists of  three  parts,  being  broken  by  two 
islands.  It  is  a  brick  wall  7  ft  high 
and  6  ft.  thick,  capped  with  stone,  and 
is  based  on  two  rows  of  walls  sunk  9 
ft.  below  the  river's  bed.  It  is  de- 
fended by  an  apron  of  cut  stone  firom 
21  to  40  ft.  broad.  There  are  twenU^- 
four  sluices,  which  help  to  scour  toe 
bed.  It  influences  the  irrigation  of 
about  600,000  acres.  About  9  m.  E. 
of  Trichinopoly  is  th&^rand  Anikut, 
an  ancient  work,  and  below  that  is  the 
Lower  Anikut,  built  in  1836.  It 
supplies  the  Yiranam  tank  in  S.  Arcot 
and  waters  the  taluks  of  Chidambaram 
and  Manargudi  in  that  Collectorate. 

3  m.  S.W.  of  Trichinopoly  is  the 
fortified  pagoda  which  was  occupied  by 
the  French  in  1753,  and  recaptured  l^ 
the  British  under  Major  Lawrence. 
The  place  is  highly  interesting,  and 
much  remains  to  be  discorered  about 
its  history. 

806  m.  Dindigal  sta.  (R.),  a  muni- 
cipal town  (14,000  inhab.)  in  the  larw 
Collectorate  of  Madura  and  the  head- 
quarters of  a  Sub-Collector.    It  also  has 
a   considerable    tobacco  manufiiotuTC. 
The  climate  is  cooler  and  more  healthy 
than   that    of    Madura.      The   great 
rock  on  which  the  fort  is  built  forms 
a  conspicuous   obiect  from   the   rail- 
way, and  is  worth  a  visit.     It  rises 
from  the  midst  of  a  low -lying  plam, 
richly  cultivated  with  various  crops, 
and  stands  quite  isolated.    The  summit  | 
is  1223  ft.  above  sea-level,  280  ft  above  I 
the  plain.      Its  lofty  precipitous  and  ' 
inaccessible  sides  were  strongly  fortified  | 
under  the  first  Navakkan  kic^  if  not  i 
before  ;  and  for  a  long  time  it  was  the ' 
key  of  the  province  of  Madura  on  the  | 
W.     Dindijgal  was  taken  by  the  British  , 
from  Tipu  in  1781,  and  restored  to  him  J 
in  1784,  but  finally  ceded  to  the  Britisi 
in  1792. 

319  m.  Ammayanayakairar  sts 
From  this  point  may  be  made  an 

[Excv/rsion  to  the  Palney  or  Paid 
Hills. — This  journey  requires  spedil 
arrangements.  The  distance  to  Eodil^ 
kanal  is  48  m.  by  road.  This  statiol 
enj  oys  a  growing  popularity.  It  is  72(H 
fL   above  sea-level.      The  climate  il 


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ROUTE  31.      MADURA 


405 


milder  and  more  even  than  that  of 
Ootacamund.  The  pop.  is  1000.  The 
site  is  not  well  chosen  as  regards  scenery, 
but  there  are  places  where  the  views  of 
the  low  country  and  the  Animalei  Hills 
to  the  "W.  are  beautiful  past  description. 
The  sportsman  will  find  bison,  tigers, 

E anthers,  bears,  the  wild  dogs,  w-nich 
ant  in  packs,  and  sambar.  There 
are  also  florican  and  woodcock.  Nut- 
meg, cinnamon,  and  pepper- vine  grow 
wild.  Coffee,  orange  trees,  lime  trees, 
citron,  and  sag(J  are  cultivated.] 

844m.Madiira8ta.  (R.),D.B.a«c(pop. 
87,000)  upon  the  Faigai  river  was  the 
capital  of  the  old  Pandyan  kingdom. 

The  Palace  of  Tirumala  Nayak  is  IJ 
m.  W.  of  the  rly.  sta.  This  prince  was 
the  greatest  of  all  the  rulers  of  Madura 
in  modem  times.  He  succeeded  Muttu 
Virappa  in  1623,  and  reigned  gloriously 
thirty -six  years.  The  palace,  whicn 
looks  modem,  and  has  pulars  of  rough 
granite  cased  with  cement  supporting 
scalloped  arches,  has  been  restored  and 
is  utilised  for  public  offices.  The 
entrance  to  it  is  on  the  E.  side,  by  a 
granite  portico  built  in  honour  of  Lord 
Napier  and  Ettrick,  who  first  ordered 
the  restoration.  At  each  comer  of  the 
E.  face  of  the  palace  is  a  low  tower. 
The  Napier  Gateway  gives  access  to  a 
cmadrangle  252x151  ft.  On  the  E., 
N.,  and  S.  sides  is  a  corridor,  the  roof 
supported  by  arches  resting  on  granite 
pillars.  On  the  "W.  side  the  corridor 
18  double,  and  is  67  ft.  broad.  The 
W.  side  is  occupied  by  a  lofty  hall : 
on  one  of  the  stones  of  the  staircase 
which  leads  up  to  it  there  is  a  Tamil  in- 
scription. Passing  from  the  staircase 
to  a  corridor  25  ft.  broad,  a  court  under 
the  Grand  Dome,  which  was  the  throne- 
room,  is  reached.  It  is  61  ft.  in  diameter, 
and  73  ft.  high.  Outside  round  the  dome 
are  galleries  where  the  ladies  in  Tiru- 
mala's  time  sat  and  watched  the  state 
receptions.  To  the  W.  of  the  grand 
dome  is  another  domed  chamber,  used 
for  the  Collector's  records  and  treasury. 
N.  and  S.  of  the  grand  dome  are 
smaller  ones.  That  on  the  S.  has 
been  completely  restored,  while  that 
on  the  N.  is  untouched,  and  affords 
a  good  means  for  comparing  the  old 
colouring  with    the   restored.      Pass- 


ing N.,  to  the  W.  of  this  is  an  apart- 
ment 54  ft.  high  called  Tirumala's  bed- 
room. There  were  four  holes  in  the 
middle  of  the  roof,  two  on  either  side, 
and  between  the  two  on  the  S.  side  was 
a  large  open  hole.  There  is  a  legend 
that  Tirumala's  cot  was  suspended  from 
hooks  fixed  in  the  four  holes,  and  that 
the  large  hole  between  the  two  S.  holes 
was  made  by  a  thief  who  descended 
from  it  by  the  chain  supporting  that 
comer  of  the  cot,  and  stole  the  crown 
jewels.  Tirumala  is  said  to  have  offered 
an  hereditary  estate  to  the  thief,  if  he 
would  restore  the  jewels,  adding  that 
no  questions  would  be  asked.  On  re- 
covering the  jewels  he  kept  his  word, 
but  ordered  the  man  to  be  decapitated. 
At  the  S.  W.  comer  of  the  building  is 
a  staircase  leading  to  the  roof,  whence 
a  view  over  Madura  may  be  had.  Close 
to  the  foot  of  this  staircase  is  a  door 
leading  into  the  Magistrate's  Court, 
which  is  perhaps  the  most  elegant  part 
of  the  palace,  and  has  been  completely 
restored.  On  the  S.  side  of  it  are  two 
black  basaltic  pillars,  monoliths  18  ft. 
high.  This  old  palace  now  forms  one 
of  the  finest  public  buildings  in  India. 

The  English  Churchy  designed  by 
Mr.  Chisholm,  C.E.,  and  built  at  the 
expense  of  Mr.  Fischer,  a  former  well- 
known  resident  at  Madura,  stands  in 
an  open  space  in  the  middle  of  the  town 
S.  W.  of  the  Great  Temple. 

On  the  further  side  of  the  river 
Vaigai,  N.  of  the  city,  and  about  1 
m.  from  the  bridge  (recently  com- 
pleted), is  a  building  called  the  Tarn- 
%am,  built  by  Tirumala  for  exhibiting 
fights  between  wild  beasts  and  gladi- 
ators, but  now  the  Collector's  house. 

The  Great  Temple  (about  1  m.  W. 
of  rly.  sta.)  forms  a  parallelogram 
about  847  ft.  x729  ft.,  surrounded  by 
9  gopuras,  of  which  the  largest  is  152 
ft.  high.  We  are  certain  that  all  the 
most  beautiful  portions  of  the  temple 
as  it  now  stands  were  built  by  Timmala 
Nayak  in  the  first  half  or  the  17th 
century.  Some  of  the  carving  is  superb, 
and  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  S.  India. 
It  consists  of  two  parts — on  the  E.  a 
temple  to  Minaksh%  "the  fish -eyed 
goddess, "  the  consort  of  Shiva ;  and  one 
to  Shiva,  here  called  Sundareshtoar, 


406 


ROUTE  31.      MADRAS  TO  TINNEVELLY 


Indu% 


on  the  W.  side.  The  entrance  is  by 
the  ^te  of  Minakshi's  Temple,  through 
a  painted  corridor  about  80  ft  long, 
whioh  is  called  the  Hall  of  the  Ei^ht 
Lakshmis,  from  eight  statues  of  that 
goddess  which  form  the  supports  of 
the  roof  on  either  side,  where  various 
dealers  ply  their  trade.  On  the  right 
of  the  gateway  is  an  image  of  Subrah- 
manya,  one  of  Shiva's  sons,  otherwise 
caUed  Skanda  or  Karttikeya,  the  Hindu 
Mars.  On  the  left  is  an  image  of 
Ganesh.  The  gateway  leads  to  a  stone 
corridor  with  rows  of  pillars  on  either 
side.  The  corridor  before  passing  the 
gateway  is  called  the  AsfUa  Laxshmi 
MandapaTTif  and  this  second  corridor 
the  Minakshi  Nayakka  Mandapcmi^ 
having  been  built  by  Minakshi  Nayak, 
Diwan  of  a  ruler  who  preceded  Tirumala. 
Some  of  the  pillars  of  the  temple  have 
for  capitals  the  curved  plantam-flower 
bracket  so  general  at  Y^ayans^r. 
This  is  said  by  some  to  be  the  Hindu 
cornucopia.  At  the  end  of  one  of  the 
corridors,  166  ft  long,  is  a  large  door 
of  brass,  which  has  stands  to  hold 
many  lamps  that  are  lighted  at  night. 
A  dark  corridor  under  a  small  gopura 
ends  in  one  broader,  with  more  light, 
which  has  three  figures  on  either  side 
carved  with  spirit 

Close  by  ifi  a  quadrangle  with  a  Teppa 
Kulam,  This  tank  is  called  Stoama- 
ptLshpa-karini  or  Pairamarai,  "Tank 
of  the  Golden  Lilies."  Observe  here  a 
little  chamber  built  by  Queen  Man- 
gammal,  who  was  seized  and  starved  to 
death  by  her  subjects  about  1706  A.D., 
food  being  placed  so  near  that  she  could 
see  and  smell  but  not  touch  it  A 
statue  of  her  lover,  the  Brahman 
Achchaya,  may  be  seen  on  the  "W.  side 
of  the  tank,  and  on  the  ceiling  there  is 
his  portrait  opposite  to  one  of  the  Queen. 
Round  the  tank  runs  an  arcade.  On 
the  N.  and  E.  sides  the  walls  of  this 
corridor  are  painted  with  the  repre- 
sentations of  the  most  famous  pagodas 
in  India :  from  the  S.  side  a  very  good 
view  is  obtained  of  the  different  towers 
of  the  gopuras.  On  the  N.W.  side  is 
the  belfry,  with  an  American  bell  of 
fine  tone.  The  corridor  is  adorned  with 
twelve  very  spirited  figures,  whioh  form 
Xiillars  on  either  side,  six  of  them  being 


the  Yali,  a  name  given  to  a  strange 
monster  which  is  the  convenUonal  lion 
of  the  S.  Sometimes  he  is  represrated 
with  a  long  snout  or  probosois.  These 
are  so  arranged  that  between  every  two 
of  them  is  a  figure  of  one  of  the  five 
Pandu  brothers.  First  on  the  rij§^ht  is 
Yudhishthir,  and  opposite  to  him  on 
the  left  is  Aijuna  with  his  famous  bow. 
Then  come  Sahadeva  on  the  right,  attd 
Nakula  on  the  left.  Then  follows 
Bhima  on  the  right  with  his  dub,  and 
opposite  to  him,  on  the  left,  is  the 
shrine  of  the  jgoddess,  and  the  figure  of 
a  Dwarpal.  The  visitor  next  passes  K. 
from  the  Minakshi  Temple  into  that  of 
Sundareshwar,  by  the  Sangeli  Manda- 
pam.  Eight  steps  are  ascended  into 
the  AruvaUi  MuraTy  the  Temple  cf  the 
BishiSy  a  small  chamber  on  the  S.  side 
of  Sundareshwar*8  Temple,  in  which  are 
a  very  large  number  of  statues  of  Hinda 
saints  and  gods,  too  numerous  to  specify. 
S.E.  of  the  groups  of  statues  are  the 
chambers  where  the  Yahanas,  or  vehi- 
cles, of  Minakshi  and  Sundareshwar 
are  kept.  They  are  plated  with  gold. 
There  are  two  golden  palkis,  or  litters, 
worth  10,000  rs.  each,  and  two  with 
rods  to  support  canopies,  worth  12,000  rs. 
each.  There  are  also  vehicles  plated 
with  silver,  such  as  a  Bdnsa,  or  "  goose," 
a  Nomdit  or  '  *  bull. "  Those  who  desire 
to  see  the  jewels  kept  here  must  give 
notice  a  day  or  two  previously. 

The  visitor  will  now  pass  on  the  N. 
side — ^the  most  interesung  feature  of 
the  temple — the  Sahaarastambha  Meat- 
dapam,  or  Hall  of  1000  PUlan.  There 
are  in  fact  997,  but  many  are  hid  from 
view,  as  the  intervals  between  them 
have  been  bricked  up  to  form  granaries 
for  the  pagoda.  "There  is  a  sm^  shrine 
dedicated  to  the  goddess  Minakshi  (the 
fish -eyed),  the  tutelary  deity  of  the 
place,  which  occupies  the  spaoe  of  15 
columns,  so  the  real  number  is  only  985; 
but  it  is  not  their  number  but  their 
marvellous  elaboration  that  makes  it 
the  wonder  of  the  place,  and  makes  it 
in  some  respects  m(n«  remarkable  than 
the  choultne  (see  below)  about  which 
so  much  has  been  said  and  written" 
(Fergusson).  This  hall,  whose  scolp* 
tures  surpass  those  of  any  other  hall  of 
its  class,  was  built  by  Arianayakkam 


d  by  Google 


ROUTE  32.      MADttRA — *INiJEVELLt 


401 


Madali,  Minister  of  the  Founder  of 
the  dynasty  of  the  Nayakkas.  His 
^ure  stands  on  the  left  of  the  entrance. 
He  is  represented  sitting  gracefully  on 
a  rearing  horse.  In  the  row  behind 
him  are  some  spirited  figures  of  men 
and  women,  or  male  and  female  deities 
dancing.  The  Grectt  Gopura  is  on  the 
£.  side  about  50  yds.  to  the  S.  of  the 
1000-pillared  Hall. 

E.  of  the  pagoda  is  the  Piidu  Manda- 
pam,  or  New  Gallery,  known  as  Tiru- 
mala's  (Moultrie,  and  built  by  him 
for  the  presiding  deity  of  the  place, 


I  ^yoj-^H  y»T«  f^yy 


f......±lj*.. 


Plan  of  Tirumala's  Choultrie. 

Sundareshwar,  who  paid  him  a  visit  of 
10  days  annually.  This,  had  it  been 
finished,  would  have  surpassed  in  magni- 
ficence all  the  other  buildings  of  this 
monarch ;  and  as  the  date  of  its  con- 
stmction  is  known,  it  forms  a  fixed 


point  in  the  chronology  of  the  style. 
The  hall  has  four  rows  of  pillars  sup- 
porting a  flat  roof,  and  on  either  -side 
of  the  centre  corridor  five  pillars  repre- 
sent ten  of  the  Nayakkan  dynasty. 
Tununala  is  distinguished  by  having  a 
canopy  over  him  and  two  figures  at 
his  back  ;  the  figure  on  the  left  being 
his  wife,  the  Princess  of  Tanjore.  On 
the  left  of  the  doorway  is  a  singular 
group,  representing  one  of  the  Nayaks 
shooting  a  wild  boar  and  sows,  accord- 
ing to  the  legend,  which  says  that 
SMva  commiserated  the  litter  of  little 
pigs,  took  them  up  in  his  arms,  and 
assuming  the  shape  of  the  sow,  suckled 
them.  A  portly  figure,  either  that  of 
Shiva  or  the  Nayak,  is  seen  holding 
up  the  dozen  little  pigs.  This  Hall  was 
erected  1623-45,  and  is  said  to  have 
cost  a  million  sterling. 

3  m.  K  of  the  station  and  N.  of  the 
Yai^i  river  is  a  fine  Teppa  Kulam.  The 
fashionable  drive  of  Madura  is  round 
this  tank,  which  is  fenced  with  stone, 
and  has  a  temple  in  the  centre. 

Great  Banyan  Tree, — In  the  com- 
pound of  the  judge's  house,  close  to  the 
tank,  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Ficas 
zTidica.  The  main  stem  has  been  much 
mutilated,  but  is  still  70  ft.  in  circum- 
ference. The  ground  shaded  by  this 
tree  has  a  diameter  of  180  ft.  in  what- 
ever direction  it  is  measured. 


425  m.  Hanisrachi  June.  sta.  Here 
the  line  bifui'cates  to  Tuticorin  (18  m.) 
and  Tinnevelly.  For  Tuticorin  see 
p.  371. 

443  m.  Tfnnevelly  terminus  sta., 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Tambrapumi 
river,  and  li  m.  from  it.  It  is  2J  m. 
from  Palamcotta.  A  bridge  of  eleven 
arches  of  60  ft.  span  each,  erected  by 
Sulochenam  Mudeliar,  crosses  thestream 
and  connects  the  two  places. 

Tinnevelly  is  now  the  most  Christian 
district  in  India.  The  S.P.G.  and  the 
C.M.S.,  estab.  1820,  have  important 
and  flourishing  stations  here,  and  at 
Palamcotta,  3^  m.  distant,  as  have  also 
the  Jesuits.  It  was  here  that  St.  Francis 
Xavier  began  his  preaching  in  India. 

The  Temple  at  Tinnevelly,  though,  as 


408 


ROUTE  32.      MADRAS  (TO  THE  SEVfiN  PAGODAS 


India 


Fergusson  says  (pp.  366-7),  "neither 
amoD^  the  lai^gest  nor  the  most  splendid 
of  S.  India,  has  the  advantage  ofnaving 
been  built  on  one  plan,  and  at  one 
time,  without  subsequent  alteration  or 
chai^."  It  is,  like  the  templeat  Madura, 
divided  into  two  parts,  of  which  the 
S.  half  is  dedicated  to  Parbati,  the 
consort  of  Shiva,  and  the  N.  to  Shiva 
himself.  There  are  three  gateways,  or 
gopuras,  to  either  half,  those  on  tne  E. 
bem^  the  principal,  and  having  porches 
outside  them.  After  entermg,  you 
have  in  front  an  internal  porch  of  large 
dimensions,  on  the  right  of  which  is  a 
Teppa  Kulain,  and  on  the  left  a  1000- 
piUared  hall,  which  runs  nearly  the 
whole  breadth  of  the  enclosure,  and  is 
63  ft.  broad.  There  are  100  rows  of 
pillars  10  deep.  The  sole  entrance  is 
on  the  E.  face.  The  temple  is  deserving 
of  a  visit,  and  can  easily  be  reached,  as 
Tinnevelly  is  but  little  out  of  the 
way  of  a  traveller  going  to  visit  Tuti- 


Palamcotta,  3^  m.  E.  of  Tinnevelly, 
is  a  municipal  town  and  the  adminis- 
trative headquarters,  with  a  pop.  of 
18,000,  of  whom  2000  are  Christians, 
and  is  within  an  easy  drive  from  Tinne- 
velly. The  old  fort  has  been  demol- 
ished. 

Between  the  bridge  over  the  Tambra- 
pumi  and  the  fort  stands  the  church 
of  the  C.M.S.,  the  spire  of  which  is 
110  ft.  high.  The  C.M.S.  have  several 
schools  here.  A  road  to  the  beautiful 
waterfalls  of  Kutallam  and  Papanasham 
passes  through  Palamcotta  and  Tin- 
nevelly. 

38  m.  N.W.  of  Tinnevelly  is  Kutal- 
lam, much  resorted  to  by  European 
residents.  It  is  not  elevated,  but  the 
S.W.  winds  pass  over  it  through  a 
chasm  in  the  W.  ghats,  and  bring  with 
them  coolness  and  moisture,  so  that  the 
temperature  of  this  favoured  spot  is  from 
10**  to  15"  lower  than  that  of  the  arid 
plains  beyond.  The  place  is  particularly 
enjoyable  in  June,  July,  and  August. 
Close  to  the  bungalows  there  are  tnree 
falls  in  the  channel  of  the  Sylar  river. 
The  lowest  cataract  falls  from  a  height 
of  200  ft. ,  but  is  broken  midway.     The 


average  temperature  of  the  water 
is  from  72^*  to  75*  F.,  and  invalids 
derive  great  benefit  from  bathing  in 
it.  The  bathing-place  is  under  a  fine 
shelving  rock,  which  affords  the  most 
delightral  shower-bath  possible.  The 
scenery  is  strikingly  picturesque,  being 
a  happy  mixture  of  bold  rocks  and 
umbrageous  woods. 

From  Palamcotta  to  Papanasham 
{Papa  "sin,"  nasham  "efl&tcing'*)  is  29 
m.     Here,  near  a  pagoda,  the  Tambra- 

Eumi  river  takes  its  last  fall  fit)m  the 
ills  to  the  level  country.  The  height 
is  only  80  ft.,  but  the  body  of  water  is 
greater  than  at  Kutallanu 


ROUTE  32 
Madras  to  the  Seven  Pagodas 

A  highly  interesting  expedition  from 
Madras  is  to  Hahabalipar,  D.B.  {the 
city  of  great  Bali),  or  the  Sey«a 
Pagodiu,  one  of  the  most  remarkable 
places  in  India. 

It  is  about  35  m.  S.,  6  of  whidi  can 
be  done  in  a  carriage  to  Quindy  Bridge, 
where  the  Buckingham  Canal  isreached. 
A  boat  must  be  engaged  beforehand, 
at  a  cost  of  about  7  rs.  If  more  than 
one  person  is  going,  another  boat  must 
be  engaged  for  the  servants.  The 
boatmen  tow  the  boat  or  scull  it  with 
a  large  stem-oar,  and  the  whole  distance 
is  done  in  from  tweWe  to  fourteen 
hours.  The  journey  may  be  made  by 
night  both  ways,  as  the  accommodatioii 
at  Mahabalipur  is  not  vepr  good,  the 
D.B.  being  without  provisions.  Hie 
cuial  goes  as  far    as    Sadras,  whidi 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  32.      MAHABALIPUR 


409 


is  between  2  and  3  m.  S.  of  Maha- 
bftlipnr.  On  the  left  bank  of  the 
canal,  to  the  £.  of  it,  and  between 
it  and  the  sea,  are  the  excavations 
and  carvings  in  the  rock  which  have 
rendered  the  place  so  famous.  Hunter 
says:  "The  antiquities  of  the  place 
may  be  divided  into  three  groups  (1) 
the  five  roths  to  the  S.  of  the  village  ; 
(2)  the  cave-temples,  monolithic  figures, 
carvings,  and  sculptures  W.  of  the 
village ;  (3)  the  more  modem  temples 
of  Vishnu  and  Shiva,  the  latter  washed 
by  the  sea. "  To  these  two  temples  and 
five  others  buried  (according  to  tradi- 
tion) under  the  sea,  the  place  owes  its 
English  name. 

'file  boat  should  stop  opposite  BcUi- 
Tpiihcmty  a  small  village,  naving  the 
village  of  Saluvan  Kuppan,  or  "toddy- 
gatherers'^  village,"  about  IJ  m.  to 
the  N.,  where  is  the  curious  Tiger 
Cave,  and  the  large  village  of  Maha- 
balipur  to  the  S.  and  E.  The  dis- 
tance between  the  canal  and  the 
sea  is  \\  m.,  and  from  1  m.  S.  of 
Saluvan  Kuppan  to  4  m.  S.  of  it  there 
are  a  great  number  of  curious  excava- 
tions and  carvings.  After  landing 
opposite  Balipitham,  follow  the  road 
straight  for  about  J  m.,  when  you 
come  to  a  hamlet,  called  Pillaiyan 
Kovil,  where  is  a  group  of  monkeys, 
admirably  carved,  the  size  of  the  large 
baboon.  The  male  is  sitting  behind 
the  female,  and  is  busv  removing 
vermin  from  her  hair.  She  sits  with 
her  back  to  him,  and  is  suckling  a 
yoimg  one.  At  200  yds.  farther  on  a 
chonltrie  is  passed — a  rest-house  for 
natives.  It  is  on  the  left  going  to- 
wards the  sea,  as  are  also  eight  stone 
figures,  at  about  30  yds.  from  it.  The 
centre  fi^re  represents  the  ffoddess 
Durga,  with  her  right  leg  on  her  left 
knee,  and  four  female  attendants  on 
her  left  hand,  and  three  on  her  right 
hand.  10  yds.  in  front  of  this  group 
is  a  highly  polished  black  pillar,  4  ft. 
6  in.  high,  a  Linffam  with  the  curious 
curved  mark,  ana  5  yds.  in  front  of  it 
is  a  Kandi,  or  Shiva's  bull,  fallen  on  its 
side.     After  this  you  entor  deep  sand, 

1  "Toddy"  is  the  fermented  sap  of  the 
cocoa-nat  and  other  palm  trees,  used  as  an 
intoxicant  by  the  natives. 


and  pass  a  good  many  huts  on  the 
right,  and  a  fishing  -  village  on  the 
lert;  and  so,  after  a  walk  of  in  all 
about  H  m.,  the  shore  tomple  is 
reached.  It  is  on  the  edge  of  the  sea, 
and  is  dedicated,  first,  to  Maha  Bali 
Chakravartti,  and,  secondly,  to  Shiva. 
It  stands  in  an  enclosure,  which  was 
at  one  time  surrounded  by  a  cranito 
wall,  but  now  only  debris  remam  and 
two  uprights  where  the  gate  wiw.     The 

Eorch  or  outer  room  on  the  N.  side 
as  a  large  slab  in  the  centre  of  the 
wall  opposite  the  door,  with  Shiva  and 
Parbati  in  alto-relievo  upon  it.  In  the 
centre  of  the  E.  wall  is  a  figure  with 
eight  arms,  which  the  guides  say  is  an 
attendant  on  Bali.  In  the  inner  part 
is  a  fallen  Lingam.  On  the  slab 
facing  the  door  Shiva  and  Parbati  are 
represented  in  alto-relievo.  This  cham- 
ber is  17  ft.  high,  and  9  ft.  sq.  The 
E.  portal  of  the  temple  is  on  the  brii^ 
of  the  surf,  and  about  10  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  right  in  front,  on  a  rock  75  ft. 
distant,  is  the  Dhwaja  starribh/i,  **  flag- 
pillar,  " oxDipa  stamiha,  "lamp  pillar, " 
of  granite,  and  now  only  18  ft.  high, 
but  which,  before  it  was  broken,  was 
probably  35  ft.  high.  It  is  difficult 
to  reach  this  pillar,  even  in  calm 
weather.  In  a  vestibule  at  the  W. 
side  of  the  temple  is  a  recumbent 
figure  of  Vishnu,  10  ft.  10  in.  long. 
Iiie  guides  say  it  is  Bali.  They  also 
affirm  that  5  m.  to  the  E.,  in  the  sea, 
are  ruined  temples.^    The  fact  is,  there 

1  Fergusson,  in  his  PtctutesqM  Illustra- 
tions qf  AndeiU  Architecture  in  Hindustan^ 
p.  67,  quotes  from  Southey's  "Curse  of 
Kehama '  the  lines : 

"  The  sepulchres 
Of  ancient  kings,  which  Bali  in  his  power 
Made  in  primeval  times,  and  built  above 

them 
A  city  like  the  cities  of  the  gods — 
Being  like  a  god  himself.    For  many  an  age 
Hath  Ocean  warred  against  his  palaces, 
Till  overwhelmed  beneath  the  waves— 
Not  overthrown — so  well  the  awful  chief 
Had  laid  their  deep  foundations. 

Their  golden  summits  in  the  noonday  light 
Shone  o'er  the  dark  green  deep  that  rolled 

between ; 
Her  domes  and  pinnacles  and  spires  were  seen 
Peering  above  the  sea,  a  moumftil  sight. 
And  on  the  sandy  shore,  beside  the  verge 
Of  Ocean,  here  and  there^  rock-cut  fane 

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ROUTE  32.       MADRAS  TO  THE  SEVEN  PAGODAS 


India 


are  heavy  breakers  about  1  m.  or  so 
out,  where  there  is  a  reef  of  rocks. 

At  about  800  yds.  N.  of  the  temi)le  is 
a  fishing-village  called  Karmiguriam- 
man  Kovil,  wkere  are  the  ruins  of  a 
brick  buildiiu^,  said  to  have  been  a 
French  church.  S.  of  the  temple,  at 
the  distance  of  200  yds.,  is  a  ruined 
granite  building,  called  Ghetti'sTemple. 
Leaving  the  shore  temple,  the  traveller 
will  find  600  yds.  due  W.  a  plain 
mandapam  of  Vishnu.  12  yds.  S.  of 
it  is  a  fine  tank,  with  steps  down 
to  the  water  all  round.  There  is  a 
small  mandapam  in  the  centre  of  the 
tank,  called  Niralji  Mandapam  (water 
pavilion).  Near  the  tank  are  many 
trees,  and  quite  a  village  of  Brahman 
houses.  Passing  these  you  come  to  the 
great  sculpturea  rock  called  Aijuna's 
Penance,  and  as  the  morning  sun 
will  now  be  getting  very  hot,  it  will 
be  well  to  turn  to  the  N.W.,  where  a 
sheltered  monolithic  temple  will  be 
found,  open  to  the  front,  called  Vara- 
haswami  Mandapam,  or  "My  Lord 
Boar's  Temple,"  from  the  representa- 
tion of  Vishnu  in  the  boar  incarnation 
with  the  head  of  a  boar.  Here  it  will 
be  well  to  breakfast,  sheltered  from  the 
sun,  and  rest  till  towards  evening. 
There  are  retiring -places  among  the 
rocks  where  one  can  bathe  without 
being  seen,  but  it  will  be  well  to  take 
a  few  pa/rdahSy  or  tent -screens,  for 
greater  privacy  and  comfort.  The 
absence  of  insects,  especially  flies,  is 
very  remarkable  here  in  the  cold 
weather.  The  Varahaswami  Manda- 
pam is  I  m.  S.  of  Balipitham,  where 
the  traveller  leaves  the  canal.  The 
facade  of  the  mandapam  is  supported 
by  two  pillars  and  two  pilasters,  the 
bases  of  which  are  carved  to  represent 
the  Simha,  or  Southern  Lion,  a  mythi- 
cal animal,  not  at  all  like  a  real  lion. 
They  are  sedent,  and  their  tails  are 

Resisted,  in  its  strength,  the  surf  and  snrge 
That  on  their  deep  foundations  beat  in  vain.' 

The  same  authority  makes  this  temple  about 
80  ft.  sq.  in  the  base,  and  about  twioe  that  in 
height,  and  adds :  "Notwithstanding  its  small 
dimensions  it  is,  with  the  single  exception  of 
the  temple  at  Tanjore,  the  finest  and  most  im- 
portant vimanah  I  have  seen,  or  know  of,  in 
the  8.  of  India.' 


twisted  in  a  peculiar  manner,  like  the 
loop  of  &.  In  the  centre  of  the  wmll, 
op(x>site  to  the  fii^e,  is  a  small  alcove^ 
which  is  the  sanctum,  but  there  is  no 
idol  in  it.  On  either  side  is  a  dwarpal 
in  alto-relievo.  In  the  side  wall  to  the 
N.  is  a  representation  of  the  Varaha 
incarnation,  fair'y  well  done,  but  un- 
finished. The  central  figure  is  Vishnu 
with  a  huge  boar's  head.  He  has  his 
right  leg  bent  up,  and  resting  on  a 
figure  issuing  apparently  from  waves. 
The  Shesh  Nag,  or  six-headed  serpent, 
overcanopies  the  figure,  which  has  the 
face  of  a  nandsome  youth,  whose  hands 
are  joined  in  prayer.  In  front  of  him 
are  two  male  figures,  the  nearest  of 
which  is  pra^^ing  with  joined  hands  to 
Vishnu.  Vishnu  supports  on  his  liffht 
thigh  his  wife  Laknshmi  Her^reet 
are  broken  off.  Near  him  is  a  wor- 
shipping figure  in  the  sky,  and  two 
tali  figures,  one  of  whom  holds  a  water- 
pot  for  ablutions.  The  time  is  sap- 
posed  to  be  that  when  Vishnn  slew 
the  giant  Hiranyakah,  ''golden  eye," 
who  had  carried  off  the  earth  into  the 
infinite  abyss.  Vishnu,  with  the  head 
of  a  boar,  puraued  and  slew  him,  and 
brought  back  the  earth.  On  the  oppos- 
ite side  wall,  to  the  S.,  is  a  very  sinnted 
representation  of  the  VaTnajuikAfxUaTa^ 
or  dwarf  incarnation,  in  alto-relieva 
Vishnu,  dilated  to  an  immense  size, 
places  one  foot  on  the  earth,  and  lifts 
another  to  the  sky.  The  god  has  eidit 
arms,  with  which  he  hol(£  a  swofi^  a 
quoit,  a  shield,  a  bow,  and  a  lotos, 
and  with  a  sixth  he  points.  The  other 
two  are  indistinct.  Worshippers  or 
attendants  are  at  his  feet,  ana  (^er 
figures  appear  in  the  skies.  One  to  the 
W .  has  the  head  of  a  dog.  The  legend 
is  that  when  Bali  was  tyrannising  over 
the  earth,  Vishnu  approached  hun  in 
the  shape  of  a  dwarf,  and  a^ed  tox  so 
much  earth  as  he  could  plant  his  feet 
upon.  Bali  granted  this  modest  re- 
quest, whereupon  Vishnu  dilated  to 
immense  proportions  and  planted  one 
foot  on  eartn,  one  on  the  sky,  and 
with  a  third  thrust  Bali  down  to 
heU.  The  capitals  of  the  pillars  in 
the  fa9ade  are  very  elegant.  In  tiie 
wall  in  which  is  tiie  uoove  are  two 
compartments ;   in    the    one    to   the 

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ROUTE  32.      MAHABALIPDR 


411 


ipectator's  right  as  he  looks  in  from  the 
fii^ade  is  a  tall  slim  woman,  pfrobably 
intended  for  Lakhshmi,  with  a  tiger 
to  her  right,  and  an  antelope  to  her  left, 
»nd  some  squat  Ganas  or  heavenly  at- 
tendants about  her.  In  the  compart- 
ment to  the  spectator's  left  is  Lakhshmi 
seated,  with  elephants  pouring  water 
over  her  from  their  trunks,  and  female 
attendants  on  either  side.  In  the 
ceiling  is  a  large  lotus  ornament. 

About  30  yds.  to  the  N.  of  the  Vara- 
haswami  Mandapam  is  a  monolithic 
temple  carved  out  of  a  huge  boulder. 
This  temple  is  dedicated  to  Ganesh. 
Taming  to  the  S.E.,  you  pass  five  fallen 
pillars  29  ft.  long,  and  other  debris ; 
and  farther  on  come  to  the  great 
carvii^  called  Arjutwds  Peiuince.  Be- 
fore you  reach  it  there  is  a  flat  rock 
on  the  r^ht,  about  6  ft.  high,  with  steps 
carved  in  the  rock  up  to  it.  There 
is  also  a  slope  in  the  rock  down  which 
the  villagers  slide  to  amuse  visitors. 

The  sculptured  rock  is  87  ft.  high. 
In  the  compartment  on  the  right  of  the 
spectator,  as  he  looks  towaras  it,  are 
fifty -seven  figures  of  men,  women, 
monkeys,  and  a  cock.  The  monkeys 
are  three  in  number,  and  all  these 
figures  are  above  an  elephant  13  ft.  10 
in.  high,  and  a  smaller  one  6  ft.  7  in. 
in  height,  below  which  are  three  calf 
elephants.  In  the  left  compartment 
of  the  sculptore  are  sixty-one  figures, 
the  most  remarkable  of  all  being  that 
which  is  said  to  represent  Arjuna, 
standing  on  one  toe  of  his  left  foot 
with  his  hands  above  his  head,  his  lips 
being  drawn  away  so  as  to  show  his 
teeth,  and  his  body  being  horribly 
emaciated.  Below  him  is  a  devilish 
figure  in  a  similar  attitude,  with  long 
ears,  which  seems  to  ridicule  his  per- 
formance. To  his  right  is  a  taU  deity, 
probably  Shiva,  pointing  to  him  ap- 
provingljr. 

Adjoining  this  great  piece  of  sculp- 
ture, to  the  left  of  the  spectator  as  he 
looks  at  it,  is  a  temple.  The  facade  is 
49  ft.  long,  and  the  interior  is  40  ft. 
deep,  the  rock  having  been  hewn  out 
to  that  depth.  The  pillars  have 
curious  capitisJs  formed  or  three  lions 
each.  In  the  same  direction  is  another 
temple  48  ft.  long,  and  25  ft.  deep, 


including,  the  pillars.  On  the  back 
wall  is  a  relief  representing  Gopis,  or 
milk-maids,  and  herdsmen,  and  cows. 
To  the  right  stands  Krishna  supporting 
with  his  left  hand  the  hill  of  Govard- 
han.  About  the  centre  is  a  man  milk- 
ing a  cow,  which  is  excellently  carved, 
and  is  represented  as  licking  her  calf. 
The  pillars  have  the  same  capitals  as 
those  of  Vijayanagar,  that  is,  with  a 
bracket  representing  the  shoot  and 
flower  of  the  plantain.  About  15  yds. 
from  this  is  a  large  temple  to  Vishnu, 
which  is  kept  locked,  as  the  Brahmans 
of  the  locality  worship  there.  The 
central  block  \a  88  ft.  lon^.  The 
gopura  df  stone  and  masonry  is  about 
44  ft.  hi^h.  This  temple  extends  165 
ft.  from  back  to  front.  As  the  specta- 
tor looks  towards  its  door,  he  has  on 
his  ri^ht  and  close  to  it  another  small 
ruined  temple,  on  which  is  an  inscrip- 
tion, and  opposite  to  it  is  a  figure 
resembling  Buddha,  with  marks  which 
show  it  has  been  adopted  as  Vishnu. 
There  has  been  an  extensive  walled 
enclosure  or  court  in  front  of  this 
great  temple,  and  there  is  a  very  solid 
gateway  partly  preserved.  In  front  of 
this  a^in  is  a  loft^  slim  pavilion  on 
four  pillars,  25  ft.  high.  Pass  now  to 
the  E.  up  a  slight  ascent,  and  you 
come  to  the  Ramwnaji  Temple,  The 
fa9ade  has  two  pillars  based  on  Simhas 
and  two  pilasters.  There  is  an  inscrip- 
tion here  in  old  Sanscrit  characters. 

1^  m.  from  this  towards  the  sea  a 
group  of  TrumolUhic  temples^  called 
Baths,  is  reached.  The  road  is  over 
very  deep  sand,  and  is  most  fatiguing. 
Here  ladies  or  weak  travellers  can  be 
carried  in  chairs  by  the  villagers. 
The  first  objects  come  to  are  a  lion  and 
an  elephant  carved  in  stone.  The  head 
of  the  elephant  is  particularly  well 
carved.  The  lion  is  farthest  to  the 
N.  Th6  several  BaHhs  here  are  Drau- 
padi's,  Aijuna's,  Bhima's,  and  Dharma 
Kiua's. 

Proceed  now  |  m.  to  the  N.W.  to  a 
small  temple  perched  on  a  rock  over 
the  Temple  of  Durga.  On  your  right 
as  you  enter  Durga's  Temple  is  a 
most  spirited  relief  representing  Durga 
mounted  on  a  lion  d!estroying  Mahis- 
hasur,  the  buflalo-headed  demon.     On 


412 


BOUTE  32.       MADRAS   TO   THE   SEVEN   PAOOBAS 


India 


your  left  is  a  relief  representing  Vishnu 
recumbent.  The  platform  of"  the  upper 
temple  is  56  ft.  above  that  of  Durga's, 
and  very  difficult  of  access,  but  the 
guides  spring  up  the  slippery  rock  with 
wonderml  agihty.  A  most  complete 
and  valuable  account  of  these  excava- 
tions will  be  found  in  the  work  entitled 
Descriptive  and  Historical  Papers  re- 
lating to  the  Seven  Pagodas  on  the 
Coramandel  Coasty  by  W.  Chambers, 
J.  Goldingham,  B.  G.  Babington, 
F.A.S.,  the  Rev.  G.  W.  Mahon,  Lieut. 
J.  Braddock,  the  Rev.  W.  Taylor,  Sir 
Walter  Elliot,  and  C.  Gubbins,  edited 
by  Capt.  M.  W.  Carr ;  printed  for  the 
Government  of  Madras,  at  the  Foster 
Press,  23Rundall'sRoad,  Vepery,  1869. 
The  age  of  these  sculptures  has  never 
been  definitely  ascertained.  No  date 
has  been  found  in  any  of  the  inscrip- 
tions. Mr.  Fergusson,  HisL  of  Arm, 
voL  ii.  p.  502,  says  the  Raths  were 


"carved  by  the  Hindus,  probably 
about  1300  A.D."  Sir  W.  Elliot  fixes 
the  era  of  the  oldest  Tamil  inscription 
on  the  rocks  of  Mahabalipur  at  the 
latter  part  of  the  11th  century,  and 
that  of  the  rock  inscription  at  ^luvsn 
Euppan  at  the  beginning  of  the  12th 
century.  The  Sanscrit  inscriptions  aie 
of  earlier  date.  Sir  W.  Elliot  thinks 
that  they  could  not  have  been  later 
than  the  6th  century.  Mr.  Fergusson 
says:  "Although  these  Ratl^  aie 
comparatively  modem  and  belong  to  a 
different  faith,  they  certainly  constitute 
the  best  representations  now  known  of 
the  forms  of  the  Buddhist  buildings." 
A  copy  and  translation  of  the  Sanwrit 
inscriptions  by  Dr.  Arthmr  Bumell 
wiU  be  found  m  the  Appendix  of  the 
work  referred  to  above. 

Sadras,  an  old  Dutch  settiement,  is 
3  m.  farther  to  the  S.  by  the  can&l,  but 
is  hardly  worth  a  visit. 


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BURMA 


INTRODUCTION 

DeBcription. — The  Province  of  Burma  lies  to  the  E.  of  the  Bay  of 
1,  and  covers  a  range  of  country  stretching  from  the  10th  to,  roughly 
Lg,  the  27th  parallel  of  latitude.     It  is  bounded  on  the  N.  and  N.E. 
la;   on  the  N.W.  by  Bengal,  Assam,  and  the  feudatory  State  of 
jur,  and  on  the  W.  and  S.W.  by  the  sea.    To  the  S.E.  lies  the  kingdom 
'j»m.     The  total  area,  excluding  the  Shan  States,  is  about  171,430  sq.  m., 
the  population,  according  to  the  census  of  1891,  was  7,605,560.     The 
ice  is  watered  by  five  great  streams,  viz.  the  IrraAJoaddy^  the  ChiTtdtoiny 
^^Utang,  the  ScUween  and  the  Myitjige.     The  first  two  rivers  have  their 
j  hses  somewhere  in  the  northern  chain  of  mountains  in  the  interior,  one 
I  Hi-stream  of  the  Irrawaddy  probably  coming  from  Tibet,  where  are  also 
f  sources  of  the  Salween  ;  the  Sittang  rises  in  the  hills  S.E.  of  Mandalay, 
p  the  Myitnge  drains  the  Shan  States  to  the  £.  of  that  city.     The  Irra- 
■Jdy  and  the  Salween  are  fine  rivers  which,  in  the  lower  part  of  their 
orse,  overflow  the  flat  country  below  their  banks,  during  the  rainy  season, 
id,  higher  up,  find  their  way  through  magnificent  defiles.     The  Irrawaddy 
navigable  for  over  900  m.,  but  the  Salween  is  practically  useless  as  a  means 
f  communication,  owing  to  the  frequent  obstacles  in  its  channel. 
«y     The  northern  portion  of  the  province  is  in  the  main  an  upland  territory 
K>ntaining  much  rolling  country,  intersected  by  occasional  hill  ranges,  and 
inth  a  few  isolated  tracts  of  alluvial  plain.     The  country  throughout  the 
«  lelta  is  flat  and  uninteresting.     Towards  Prome  the  valley  of  the  Irrawaddy 
r  contracts,  and  the  monotony  of  the  plain  is  diversified  by  a  wooded  range  of 
,  bills,  which  cling  to  the  western  bank  nearly  all  the  way  to  the  frontier. 
:  The  Salween  valley  contains  occasional  harmonies  of  forest,  crag,  and  moun- 
tain stream.    On  the  other  hand,  the  scenery  in  Tavoy  and  Mergui,  and  among 
the  myriad  islets  which  fiinge  the  Tenasserim  coast,  is  almost  English  in  its 
,  verdure  and  repose.     The  forests  of  Burma  abound  in  fine  trees.    Among 
these  teak  holds  a  conspicuous  place.     Almost  every  description  of  timber 
known  in  India  is  produced  in  the  forests,  from  which  also  an  abundant 
supply  is  obtained  of  the  varnish  used  by  the  Burmese  in  the  manufacture  of 
lacquered  ware.     Sticklao  of  an  excellent  quality  is  obtained  in  the  woods, 
and  rubber  has  of  late  years  been  largely  exported.     A  marked  feature 
in   Rangoon  during  the  rains  is  the  number  of  beautiful  flowering  trees. 


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414  BURMA  India 

Although  there  is  plenty  of  large  game  in  the  country,  it  is  not  easy  to  get 
at  owing  to  the  dense  forests,  and  the  difficulty  of  obtaining  experienced 
shikaris  and  baggage-animals ;  but  good  bags  of  snipe  are  made  all  over  &e 
country  from  August  to  December,  and  good  jungle  fowl  and  duck  shootiDg 
is  to  be  had  without  difficulty  in  many  parts  of  the  province. 

Burma  is  fairly  rich  in  minerals.  Gold,  silver,  and  other  valuable  metals 
have  been  found  in  small  quantities  in  various  parts :  fine  marble  is  found 
near  Mandalay  ;  coal  of  fair  quality  has  recently  been  discovered  in  sevoil 
parts  of  Upper  Burma.  Mogok  supplies  the  world  with  rubies ;  and  sapphires 
are  found  there,  and  in  the  Shan  States.  Petroleum  is  obtained  in  large 
quantities  at  Yenangyoung  in  Upper  Burma,  and  in  smaller  quantities  in 
Arrakan  and  elsewhere.  Jade  and  amber  are  extracted  in  considerable 
quantities  in  the  northern  part  of  the  Bhamo  district.  In  Lower  Burma 
agriculture  is  the  main  employment  of  the  people.  Cotton,  sesamunn,  and 
tobacco  are  extensively  grown,  and  orchards  are  found  near  every  village, 
but  rice  covers  about  five-sixths  of  the  total  area  under  cultivation.  The  soil 
is  lavish  in  its  yield,  requires  little  labour  and  no  artificial  stimulus  beyond 
the  ash  of  the  past  year's  stubble,  which  is  burned  down  and  worked  into  the 
land.  Upper  Barma,  though  inferior  in  point  of  fertility  to  the  low-lying 
tracts  of  Lower  Burma,  is  far  from  unproductive.  The  chief  crops  are  riw, 
maize,  millet,  wheat,  pulses,  tobacco,  cotton,  and  sesamum. 

The  commercial  prosperity  of  Lower  Burma  has  more  than  kept  pace  with 
its  rapidly  increasing  population.  The  chief  articles  exported  are  rioe, 
timber,  cutch,  hides,  petroleum,  and  precious  stones.  The  chief  imports  are 
piece  goods,  silk,  cotton,  and  wool,  liquors,  tobacco,  iron,  and  sugar. 

The  main  commercial  industries  are  those  connected  with  the  rice  and 
timber  trade.  The  indigenous  manufactures  of  the  country  produce  little 
beyond  what  is  required  for  home  consumption.  Silk,  lacquered  ware,  gold 
and  silver  work,  wood  and  ivory  carving,  are  among  the  most  justly  admind 
of  Burmese  handicrafts.  The  best  silks  are  woven  at  Mandalay ;  the  principal 
lacquer- workers  are  at  Nyaungu,  near  Pagan  ;  gold  and  silver  work  is  carried 
on  at  Rangoon,  Moulmein,  Thayetmyo,  Mandalay,  and  to  a  greater  or  less 
extent  in  all  the  larger  towns ;  the  best  wood-carvers  are  in  Rangoon  and 
Mandalay,  and  the  most  expert  ivory-carver  is  at  Moulmein.  The  character- 
istics of  Burmese  art  are  vigour  ard  novelty  in  design,  but  want  of  delicacy 
and  finish  in  execution. 

Should  Barma  be  visited  after  a  tour  in  India,  the  traveller  cannot  6il 
to  be  struck  with  the  great  difference  in  the  people  and  the  scenery  of  the 
two  countries.  The  merry,  indolent,  brightly -clothed  Burmese  have  no 
counterpart  in  Hindustan,  and  the  richness  of  the  soil  and  exuberance  of 
the  vegetation  will  be  at  once  remarked.  The  life  of  the  natives  is  free  from 
the  deadening  effects  of  caste  and  seclusion  of  the  women — two  cust(»n8 
which  stereotype  the  existence  of  so  large  a  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  India. 

The  Burmese,  as  a  race,  are  of  short  stature  and  thick-set.  The  men  wear 
long  hair  on  their  heads,  but  have  little  or  none  on  their  faces :  flat  in 
feature,  they  show  unmistakably  their  near  relationship  to  the  Chinese.     The 

•>en  are  well  treated  and  attractive-looking;  they  go  to  market,  keep 

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INTRODUCTION  415 

shops,  and  take  their  fiill  share  in  social  and  domestic  affairs.    Men  and 
women  alike  are  well  clad,  and  delight  in  gay  colours  and  silk  attire. 

In  religion  the  Burmese  are  Buddhists,  and  every  Burman  is  supposed 
to  spend  a  certain  part  of  his  life  as  a  pongyi  or  monk,  whether  he  adopts 
the  sacred  calling  ultimately  as  his  career  or  not.  The  monks  are  the 
schoolmasters  of  the  country,  and  perform  this  duty  in  return  for  the  sup- 
port they  receive  from  the  people.  The  shaven  head  and  yellow  rohe  of 
the  monk  are  a  common  sight  in  all  Burmese  villages  and  towns. 

HiBtoxy. — The  earliest  European  connection  with  Burma  was  in  1519, 
when  the  Portuguese  concluded  a  treaty  with  the  King  of  Pegu,  and  estah- 
lished  factories  at  Martahan  and  Syriam.  Towards  the  close  of  the  16th 
cent,  the  Dutch  ohtained  possession  of  the  island  of  Negrais,  and  ahout  the 
year  1612  the  English  East  India  Company  had  agents  and  factories  at 
Syriam,  Prome,  Ava,  and  perhaps  Bhamo.  About  the  middle  of  the  17th 
cent,  all  European  merchants  were  expelled  from  the  country,  owing  to  a 
dispute  between  the  Burmese  Governor  of  Pegu  and  the  Dutch.  The  Dutch 
never  returned.  In  1688  the  Burmese  Governor  of  Syriam  wrote  to  the 
English  Governor  of  Madras  inviting  British  merchants  to  settle  in  Pegu,  and 
in  1698  a  commercial  Resident  was  sent  to  Syriam,  and  a  factory  was  built 
there,  and  others  at  Negrais  and  Bassein.  The  French  also  had  a  settlement 
at  Syriam.  Meanwhile  the  Burmese  dynasty  of  Ava  was  destroyed  by  the 
rebellion  of  the  Talaing  kingdom  of  Pegu,  and  the  Takings  held  sway  in 
Burma  till  the  middle  of  the  18th  cent.,  when  Alompra,  the  founder  of  the 
dynasty  which  till  recently  reigned  in  Upper  Burma,  succeeded  in  uniting 
his  countrymen,  the  Burmese,  and  crushing  the  Talaings.  In  1755  Alompra 
founded  Rangoon  to  celebrate  his  conquest  of  the  Talaings,  and  destroyed 
Syriam.  After  Alompra's  success  he  found  that  the  French  merchants  had 
been  supplying  warlike  stores  to  the  Talaings,  and  he  put  all  Frenchmen  to 
death.  The  English,  who  had  generally  supported  the  Burmese,  were  granted 
the  island  of  Negrais  and  a  factory  at  Bassein.  In  1759,  however,  they  were 
suspected  of  assisting  rebels,  so  their  factories  were  destroyed,  and  10  English- 
men and  100  natives  of  India  were  murdered.  In  the  following  year  Alompra 
died  while  laying  siege  to  Ayuthia,  the  capital  of  Siam,  and  the  English 
obtained  permission  from  his  successor,  Naungdawgyi,  to  re-establish  the 
Bassein  factory.  Sinbyushin,  who  succeeded  Naungdawgyi,  took  Manipur 
and  Siam,  and  defeated  two  inroads  from  China.  He  died  in  1776,  and  was 
succeeded  by  Bodawpaya,  who  conquered  Arrakan  in  1784.  This  brought 
Burma  into  collision  with  the  British  in  Chittagong.  The  Arrakanese 
outlaws  took  refuge  over  the  border,  and  harassed  the  Burmese  rulers  by 
inroads  from  British  territory.  This  gave  rise  to  friction,  and  in  order  to 
assist  in  the  adjustment  of  matters  in  dispute,  an  envoy  was  sent  to  Burma 
in  1795  by  the  Governor -General  of  India.  In  1819  Bodawpaya  died,  and 
was  succeeded  by  Bagyidaw.  Matters  had  not  improved  on  the  border,  and 
in  1824  the  Burmese  invaded  Manipur  and  Assam,  and  Maha  Bandula,  the 
great  Burmese  general,  started  with  an  army  from  Ava  to  take  command  in 
Arrakan  and  invade  Bengal. 

The  British  Government  formally  declared  war  against  Burma  on  March 

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416  BURMA  India 

5,  1824.  The  Burmese  were  driven  out  of  Assam,  Eachar,  and  Manipor ; 
and  Rangoon,  Mergui,  Tavoy,  and  Martaban  were  occupied  by  Britisli  troops. 
The  troops  suffered  much  from  sickness  as  soon  as  the  rains  began  ;  all 
moyements  by  land  became  impracticable,  and  by  December  the  force  occupf- 
ing  Rangoon  had  been  reduced  by  sickness  and  otherwise  to  abont  1800 
Europeans  and  2500  natives  fit  for  duty.  The  Burmese,  under  Mahs  Bandok, 
made  a  determined  effort  to  drive  the  invaders  into  the  sea ;  but  their  attack, 
in  which  60,000  men  are  said  to  have  taken  part,  was  repulsed  with  grett 
slaughter,  and  the  Burmese  army  dwindled  away,  a  portion  of  it  retiring  to 
Donabyu,  which  Maha  Bandula  fortified  with  some  skill  for  a  further  effort 
The  British  troops,  having  been  reinforced,  marched  up  the  Irrawaddj 
valley,  and  on  April  2,  1825,  took  Donabyu.  Maha  Bandula  was  killed  in 
the  cannonade,  and  with  him  aU  serious  resistance  came  to  an  end.  Prome 
was  occupied,  and  the  troops  went  into  cantonment  for  the  rains.  In 
September  1825  the  Burmese  endeavoured  to  treat,  but  as  they  would  not 
agree  to  the  terms  offered,  hostilities  recommenced  ;  and  in  December  the 
British  advanced,  and,  after  several  actions  with  tlie  Burmese  troops,  reached 
Yandaboo,  Feb.  16,  1826.  Here  the  envoys  of  the  king  signed  a  treaty 
ceding  to  the  British  Assam,  Arrakan,  and  the  coast  of  Tenasaerim,  and 
agreeing  to  pay  a  million  sterling  towards  the  cost  of  the  war.  In  November 
1825  a  commercial  treaty  was  signed  at  Ava,  and  in  1830  the  first  British 
Resident  was  appointed  under  the  treaty  to  the  Burmese  capital.  In  1837 
Bagyidaw  was  deposed  by  his  brother  Tharrawaddy,  who  in  1846  was  suc- 
ceeded by  his  brother  Pagan  Mim 

In  1852,  owing  to  a  succession  of  outrages  committed  on  British 
subjects  by  the  Burmese  Governor  of  Rangoon,  for  which  all  reparation  was 
refused,  the  British  again  declared  war  against  the  King  of  Burma ;  and 
towards  the  close  of  the  same  year  Lord  Dalhousie  proclaimed  that  the  whole 
of  the  province  of  Pegu,  as  far  N.  as  the  parallel  of  latitude  6  m.  N.  of  the 
ort  at  Myede,  was  annexed  to  the  Biitlsh  Empire.  Almost  immediatelj 
after  this  Pag&n  Min  was  deposed  by  his  brother  Mindon  Min,  who  ruled  his 
curtailed  kingdom  with  wisdom  and  success. 

The  pacification  of  Pegu  and  its  reduction  to  order  occupied  about  tea 
years  of  constant  work.  In  1862  Her  Majesty's  possessions  in  Burma— 
namely,  the  provinces  of  Arrakan,  Pegu,  Martaban,  and  Tenasserim — ^wers 
amalgamated  and  formed  into  the  Province  of  British  Burma,  under  the 
administration  of  a  Chief-Commissioner,  Lieut. -Col.  (afterwards  Sir  Arthur) 
Phayre  being  appointed  to  that  oflBce. 

In  October  1878  King  Mindon  died,  and  was  succeeded  by  his  son  King 
Thebaw.  Early  in  1879  the  execution  of  a  number  of  members  of  the  Rojal 
family  at  Mandalay  excited  much  horror  in  Lower  Burma,  and  relati<Mis 
became  much  strained  owing  to  the  indignation  of  Englishmen  at  the 
barbarities  of  the  Burmese  Court,  and  the  resentment  of  the  king  and  hit 
ministers  at  the  attitude  of  the  British  Resident.  In  October  1879,  owing  to 
the  unsatisfactory  position  of  the  British  Resident  in  Mandalay,  the  Govern- 
ment of  India  withdrew  their  representative  from  the  Burmese  Court 
Meanwhile,  under  the  lax  rule  of  Thebaw  the  condition  of  Upper  Burma 

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nn?»ODUCTlON  417 

had  beeti  gradually  drifting  from  bad  to  worse.  The  Central  Governm^t 
lost  control  of  many  of  the  outlying  districts,  and  the  elements  of  disocder 
on  the  British  frontier  were  a  standing  menace  to  the  peace  of  Lower  Burma. 
The  king,  in  contravention  of  treaty  obligations,  created  monoplies  to  the 
detriment  of  the  trade  of  both  England  and  Burma,  and,  while  the  Indian 
Government  was  unrepresented  at  Mandalay,  representatives  of  France  and 
Italy  were  welcomed,  and  two  separate  embassies  were  sent  to  Europe  for  the 
purpose  of  contracting  alliances  with  sundry  continental  powers.  Matters  were 
brought  to  a  crisis  in  1885,  when  the  Burmese  Court  imposed  a  fine  of  £230,000 
upon  the  Bombay  Burma  Trading  Corporation,  and  refused  the  proposal  of 
the  Indian  Government  to  submit  the  matter  to  arbitration.  In  view  of  the 
long  series  of  unsatisfactory  episodes  in  the  British  relations  with  Burma 
during  Thebaw's  reign,  the  Government  of  India  decided  once  for  all  to 
adjust  the  relations  between  the  two  countries.  An  ultimatum  was  sent  to 
King  Thebaw,  requiring  him  to  suspend  action  against  the  Corporation ;  to 
rec^vo  at  Mandalay  an  envoy  from  the  Viceroy,  who  should  be  treated  with 
the  respect  due  to  the  Government  which  he  represented  ;  and  to  r^ulate  the 
external  relations  of  the  country  in  accordance  with  the  advice  of  the  Govern- 
ment of  India.  This  ultimatum  was  despatched  on  Oct.  22, 1885.  On  Nov. 
9  a  reply  was  received  in  Rangoon,  amounting  to  an  unconditional  refusal  of 
the  terms  laid  down.  On  Nov.  7  King  Thebaw  issued  a  proclamation  calling 
on  his  subjects  to  drive  the  British  heretics  into  the  sea.  On  Nov.  14, 1885, 
the  British  expedition  crossed  the  frontier,  and  advanced  to  Mandalay  with- 
out encountering  any  serious  resistance.  On  Nov.  28  the  British  occupied 
Mandalay,  and  next  day  King  Thebaw  was  sent  down  to  Rangoon,  whence 
he  was  afterwards  transferred  to  India.  Upper  Burma  was  formally  annexed 
on  Jan.  1,  1886,  and  the  work  of  restoring  the  country  to  order  and  Intro- 
dudng  settled  government  commenced.  For  some  years  the  country  was 
disturbed  by  the  lawless  spirits  who  had  been  multiplying  under  the  late 
regime,  but  by  the  close  of  1889  all  the  larger  bands  of  marauders  had  been 
broken  up,  and  since  1890  the  country  has  enjoyed  greater  freedom  from 
crimes  of  violence  than  the  province  formerly  known  as  British  Burma.  In 
the  time  of  Burmese  rule  China  claimed  a  certain  shadowy  suzerainty  over 
the  Burmese  empire.  In  July  1886  a  convention  was  signed  at  Pekin, 
whereby  China  recognised  British  rule  in  Burma,  and  agreed  to  the  demarca- 
tion of  the  frontier  and  the  encouragement  of  international  trade.  By  a 
further  treaty,  signed  in  1894,  the  frontier  has  been  defined,  and  further 
arrangements  made  for  the  encouragement  of  trade,  and  the  linking  of  the 
telegraph  systems  of  Burma  and  China.  In  1897  the  Province  was  con- 
stituted a  Lieutenant-Governorship  under  Sir  Frederick  Fryer. 

The  census  of  1891  showed  that  in  Lower  Burma  population  had  increased 
during  the  past  decade  at  the  rate  of  2*39  per  cent  per  annum.  The  trade 
of  the  province  has  greatly  increased  under  British  rule.  The  standard  of 
living  among  the  agricultural  classes  has  improved,  and  large  areas  of 
cultivable  land  still  exist,  and  in  most  districts  may  be  had  for  the  asking. 

Climate,  etc. — The  climate  of  the  province,  for  some  distance  from  the 
coast,  consists  of  a  wet  season  from  May  15  to  November  15,  and  a  dry  season 


418  isHtMk  India 

for  the  rest  of  the  year.  Farther  inland  the  rain  becomes  less  ;  but,  as  Buma 
must  at  present  be  reached  from  the  sea,  the  best  time  for  visiting  the  pio- 
▼ince  is  from  November  until  February.  During  the  wet  season  the  raioMl 
at  Rangoon  is  heavy — amounting  to  upwards  of  90  in.,  and  after  Febraaiy 
the  heat  is  considerable  till  the  first  refreshing  showers  fall  in  May. 

Means  of  AecesB. — ^The  quickest  route  to  Burma  is  by  Brindisi  and  Pot 
Said  to  Bombay,  rail  to  Madras,  and  thence  steamer  to  Rangoon.  A  favonrfte 
route  is  by  the  Bibby  line,  which  despatches  steamers  to  Rangoon  from  liverpool 
and  London  every  three  weeks.  The  steamers  are  large  and  well  found  in  evei^ 
respect,  and  perform  the  journey  from  Liverpool  to  Rangoon  in  about  27  days. 
They  call  at  Marseilles  and  Colombo,  and  if  the  traveller  proceeds  to  MarseOlcs 
by  train  he  can  complete  the  journey  to  Rangoon  in  22  days.  Rangoon  can 
also  be  reached  from  Calcutta,  Madias,  or  Singapore,  by  the  steamers  of  the 
British  India  Steam  Navigation  Co.  The  voyage  from  Calcutta  or  Madras 
occupies  4  days ;  that  from  Singapore  7  days.  The  steamers  from  Calcutta 
to  Rangoon  start  twice  a  week ;  those  from  Madras  once  a  week  ;  and  tiiose 
from  Singapore  once  a  week.  The  days  of  starting  vary  at  different  seasons 
of  the  year. 

General  Hinta.— Burma  has  hitherto  been  little  visited  by  tourists.  Hie 
hotels  are  indifferent,  and  in  many  places  non-existent ;  there  are  no  competent 
guides,  and  travelling  arrangements,  except  on  the  railway  and  by  a  few  main 
lines  of  steamer  communication,  are  primitive.  Hence  the  traveller  will  do 
well  to  provide  himself,  if  possible,  with  letters  of  introduction.  Armed 
with  these  he  will  find  his  difficulties  reduced.  Without  them  he  will  find 
it  difficult  to  see  much  of  the  country,  or  even  of  the  larger  towns. 
He  will  do  well  to  provide  himself  with  some  books  about  Burma.  Of 
recent  books  the  best  is  undoubtedly  T?ie  Burman^  His  Life  and  Matums^ 
by  Shway  Yoe  (J.  G.  Scott),  published  by  Macmillan  in  1882.  But  tiiis 
is  unfortunately  out  of  print,  as  is  also  Yule's  E^nhasay  to  Ava  (Smith, 
Elder,  1858),  a  work  which  will  be  found  very  useful  if  the  traveller  can 
obtain  a  copy  of  it  Captain  Forbes'  Bwnna  (Murray)  is  also  a  useful 
book,  and  Bishop  Bigandet's  Legend  of  Oaudama  (Trubner),  is  invaluable  for 
students  of  Burmese  Buddhism.  l/Tider  the  Shadow  of  the  Pagoda^  by  Mr. 
Cumming,  contains  some  capital  sketches  of  Burma  and  the  Burmese.  For 
more  detailed  information  reference  may  be  made  to  Colonel  Spearman's 
Gazetteer  of  British  Burma  (Government  Press,  Rangoon),  also  unfortunately 
out  of  print,  and  to  the  Administration  Report  of  the  Province  for  1892-93, 
and  the  Burma  Census  Report  issued  by  the  Burma  Administration  in  189*2. 
Notes  of  a  Tour  in  Burma^  by  Dr.  Oertel  (Government  Press,  Rangoon  1893) 
will  be  of  interest,  especially  to  the  archaeologist,  and  contains  a  number  of 
photographs  of  various  parts  of  Burma.  For  historical  information  the 
traveller  should  obtain  Phayre's  Utstory  (Triibner).  Free  use  has  been  made 
of  several  of  the  above  works,  and  especially  of  Shway  Yoe,  in  the  following 
pages. 

Pagodas  and  MonaBtaries. — ^The  pagodas  and  monasteries  form  the  chief 
objects  of  interest  throughout  Burma,  and  as  they  are  mostly  built  on  very 
similar  plans  a  general  description  of  tlieae  two  classes  of  religious  buildings 

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INTRODUCTION  419 

will  be  useful.  The  following  description  is  taken  in  the  main  from  Shway 
Yoe.  The  Pagodcu,  while  differing  in  various  minor  details,  consist  almost 
invariably  of  a  solid  pyramidal  cone  rising  with  a  gradually  diminishing 
rounded  outline,  surmounted  by  a  ti  or  '' umbrella"  spire,  a  construction 
formed  of  concentric  rings  of  beaten  iron  lessening  to  a  rod  with  a  small 
vane  on  the  top.  From  the  rings  hang  little  bells  with  flat  elongated  clappers, 
which  are  caught  by  the  wind  and  maintain  day  and  night  a  melodious  ringing. 
They  are  usually  built  upon  more  or  less  elevated  platforms,  and  are  erected 
over  relics  of  Gaudama.  In  almost  all  the  larger  pagodas  there  are  arched 
wings  on  each  face  serving,  as  it  were,  as  antechapels,  and  each  containing 
a  figure  of  Gaudama,  while  the  surrounding  platform  is  frequently  studded 
with  minor  temples,  image  houses,  altars  for  the  deposit  of  offerings,  large 
bells,  flag-posts,  images  of  strange  monsters,  and  other  curious  objects.  These 
pagodas  are  to  be  found  in  every  village  in  Burma ;  capping  the  hills  and 
frequently  in  out-of-the-way  places,  contributing  everywhere  to  the  pictur- 
esqueness  of  the  country.  There  is  good  reason  for  this  multiplication  of 
fanes.  Ko  work  of  merit  is  so  highly  regarded  as  the  building  of  a  pagoda. 
The  builder  is  regarded  as  a  saint  on  earth,  and  when  he  dies  he  attains  the 
holy  rest.  It  avails  little  to  repair  a  previous  dedication,  unless  it  be  one 
of  the  great  world  shrines  at  Rangoon,  Pegu,  Prome,  or  Mandalay.  Hence 
old  pagodas  are  seldom  repaired,  but  new  ones  are  constantly  springing  up. 
Outside  every  village  in  Burma,  however  small,  there  stands  also  a  monastery 
or  pongyi  kyaung^  where  the  monks  pass  their  tranquil  lives  and  supply  a 
simple  education  to  the  children  of  the  village.  Ordinarily  the  monastery 
is  built  of  teak,  but  in  many  places  brick  buildings  are  now  being  erected. 
The  shape  is  always  oblong,  and  the  inhabited  portion  is  raised  on  posts  or 
pillars  some  8  or  10  ft.  above  the  ground.  They  are  never  more  than  one 
story  high,  for  it  would  be  an  indignity  to  a  holy  monk  to  have  any  one  over 
his  head.  A  flight  of  steps  leads  up  to  the  verandah,  which  extends  all  along 
the  N.  and  S.  sides  and  frequently  all  round  the  building.  The  steps  are 
usually  adorned  with  carvings  or  plaster  figures  of  nats  or  ogres.  From 
the  raised  floor  rises  the  building  with  tier  upon  tier  of  dark  massive  roofs 
capped  at  intervals  with  tapering  spires  or  pyathcUs.  The  buildings  are  in 
many  cases  ornamented  with  the  most  elaborate  carving.  The  interior 
accommodation  is  very  simple.  It  consists,  in  the  main,  of  a  great  central 
hall  divided  into  two  portions,  one  level  with  the  verandah  where  the  scholars 
are  taught,  and  the  other  a  raised  dais  2  ft  or  so  above  the  level  of  the  rest 
of  the  building.  Seated  upon  this  the  priests  are  accustomed  to  receive 
visitors,  and  at  the  back,  against  the  wall,  are  arranged  images  of  Gaudama 
interspersed  with  manuscript  chests,  small  shrines,  fans,  and  other  religious 
implements,  and  miscellaneous  gifts  of  the  pious,  heaped  together  ordinarily 
in  very  careless  fashion.  There  are  occasionally  dormitories  for  the  monks, 
but,  as  a  rule,  they  sleep  in  the  central  hall,  where  the  mats  which  form  their 
beds  may  be  seen  rolled  up  round  the  pillows  against  the  wall.  In  many 
monasteries  there  is  a  special  room  for  the  palm  leaf  scribes,  often  detached 
from  the  main  building,  as  are  the  cook-room  and  the  bathing-houses.  In 
one  corner  is  usually  a  tJiein,  a  building  for  the  performance  of  various  rites 

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and  ceremonies,  and  more  particularly  for  the  examination  and  ordination  of 
priests.  The  traveller  will  find  it  perfectly  easy  to  visit  and  closely  inspect 
as  many  pagodas  and  monasteries  as  he  pleases.  The  pagodas  are  open  to  all, 
and  at  the  monasteries  he  may  be  generally  certain  of  a  friendly  welcome  from 
the  priests,  provided  he  can  speak  Burmese  or  is  accompanied  by  any  one 
acquainted  with  that  language.  The  priests  are  treated  with  great  respect 
by  the  people  of  the  country,  and  are  invariably  addressed  as  paya  or  lord. 
Any  one  who  desires  to  visit  a  monastery  will  do  well  to  bear  in  mind  that 
the  monks  are  accustomed  to  be  treated  with  deference. 

Pwes. — The  traveller  should  make  a  point,  before  leaving  Burma,  of  seeing 
something  of  the  Ptoe^  the  national  amusement  of  the  people.  Pwes  are  of 
three  kinds,  the  Zat  ptoCf  which  consists  of  acting,  singing,  dancing,  md 
clowning  ;  the  Vokthwe  pwe^  in  which  a  similar  performance  is  gone  through 
by  marionettes ;  and  the  Yein  pwe,  a  kind  of  ballet,  with  music  and  song, 
performed  by  a  considerable  company  of  young  men  or  maidens,  as  tl|e  case 
may  be.  Yein  pwes  are  usually  performed  only  on  special  occasions,  in 
honour  of  some  high  official,  or  at  a  great  pagoda  feast,  but  zat  pwes  and 
yokthwe  pwes  are  of  constant  occurrence  on  nearly  all  moonlight  nights  in 
every  large  town,  and  the  traveller  should  have  no  difficulty  in  seeing  both 
forms  of  entertainment,  either  in  Rangoon  or  Mandalay.  The  performances 
take  place  in  the  open  air,  last  all  night,  and  usually  for  several  nights  ii 
succession,  and  are  free  and  open  to  all,  the  actors  being  paid  by  the  giver  of 
the  entertainment.  The  majority  of  the  audience  stay  the  whole  night,  saj 
from  8  P.M.  till  sunrise,  but  an  hour  or  two  of  the  performance  will  prohaUj  , 
satisfy  the  English  traveller.  A  full  description  of  the  different  kinds  of  pwe  i 
is  given  by  Shway  Yoe  in  chapter  xxix.  of  The  Burman.  I 


RANGOON. 

Arrival. — It  may  be  taken  for  granted 
that  the  traveller,  either  from  England 
or  from  India,  will  land  at  Rangoon, 
and  it  will  therefore  be  convenient  first 
to  describe  the  principal  objects  of  in- 
terest in  that  cify,  and  then  to  mention 
a  few  of  the  principal  tours  which  can 
be  made  thence  to  other  parts  of  the 
province. 

Rangoon  if.  is  the  capital  of  the 
province,  and  the  seat  of  the  local 
government.  In  1852  it  was  a  mere 
fishing  village.  In  1894  it  is  a  city  of 
about  200,000  inhabitants,  having  a 
trade  larger  than  that  of  any  IncBan 
port  save  only  Calcutta  and  Bombay. 
The  value  of  the  private  sea-borne  traie 


of  Rangoon  in  1892-93  was  over  Rs- 1 
186  millions.  Twenty  years  ago  it  | 
was  under  Rs.  46  millions.  DoiiBgl 
the  same  period  the  population  I 
increased  from  about  90,000  to  ab( 
200,000  souls.  The  principal  o\^ 
of  interest  in  and  around  Rangoon  i 
be  classified  as  follows : — 

1.  The  pagodas  and  monasteries. 

2.  The  Bazaars  and  native  shopa 

3.  The  rice,  timber,  and  oil  worbi| 

4.  The  public  buildings. 

5.  The  cantonments  and  lakes. 

6.  The  remains  at  Syriam. 

(1)  PAGODAS  AND  MONAST 
There  are  numerous  pagodas  m  1 
about  Rangoon.    The  Shtoe  Bttgeiki 
the  SuU  deserve  special  mentioi^ 


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JolmllarCJuilamanr  8,  Co.  tSa^ 


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great    Shwe    Dagon    Pagoda    is   the 

most  venerable,  the  finest,  and  the  most 
universally    visited    of   all    places  of 
'worship  in  In  do  China.     Its  peculiai* 
sanctity  is  due  to  the  fact,  that  it  is  the 
only  pagoda  known  to  Buddhists,  which 
is  credited  with  containing  actual  relics, 
not  only  of  Gaudama,  but  of  the  three 
"Bnddhas   who  preceded  him   in  this 
world.      Hence    it   attracts  countless 
pilgrims,  not  only  from  all  parts  of 
Burma,  but  also  from  Cambodia,  Siam, 
Corea,    and   Ceylon.      It   is    situated 
about  2  m.  from  the  Strand,  and  may 
be   reached  either  by  steam  tramway 
(chiefly  used  by  natives)  or  by  ticca 
gharry.     The  stately  pile  stands  upon 
a    mound,   partly  natural  and  partly 
artificial,  which  has  been  cut  into  two 
rectangular    terraces    one    above    the 
other  ;  each  side,  as  in  the  case  of  all 
pagodas,   facing  one  of  the  cardinal 
points  of  the  compass.      The  upper 
terrace,    which    has    been    carefully 
levelled  and  paved  and  repaved  by  the 
pious,  rises  166  ft.  from  the  level  of 
the  ground,  and  is  900  ft.  long  by  686 
wide.     The  ascent  was  by  four  flights 
of  brick  steps,  one  opposite  the  centre 
of  each  face — but  the  western  face  has 
been  closed  by  the  fortifications  built 
by  the  English  conqueror  to  dominate 
the  town  and  secure  the  pagoda,  where 
there  was  so  much  desperate  fighting 
in  the  Burmese  wars.     The  southern 
ascent  is  that  most  frequently  used. 
At  the  foot  are  two  gigantic  leogryphs, 
built  of  brick  and  covered  with  plaster. 
From  them  up  to  the  platform  the  long 
stairs  are  covered  by  a  rising  series 
of  handsomely-carved  teak  roofs,  sup- 
ported on   huge  wood   and   masonry 
pillars.     The  heavy  cross-beams  and 
the  panelling  are  in  many  places  em- 
bellished  with   frescoes,   representing 
scenes  in  the  life  of  Gaudama  and  his 
disciples,  and  with  hideously  curious 
representations  of  the  tortures  of  the 
wicked.     The  steps  themselves  are  ex- 
ceedingly primitive  and  dilapidated, 
consisting  in  some  parts  of  broad  stone 
flags,  and  in  others  of  simple  sun-dried 
bricks,  worn  by  the  feet  of  myriads  of 
worshippers.     On  either  side  beggars 
congregate,  exhibiting,  in  many  cases, 
horrible  leprous  sores.    There  are  also 


numerous  stalls,  at  which  gold  leaf, 
flowers,  and  other  ofl^erings,  may  be 
purchased,  besides  a  considerable 
variety  of  other  articles.  The  stairs 
debouch  on  a  broad,  open,  flagged 
space  which  runs  all  round  the  pagoda, 
and  is  left  free  for  worshippers.  From 
the  centre  of  this  springs,  from '  an 
octagonal  plinth,  the  pagoda  itself.  It 
has  a  circumference  of  1355  ft.,  and 
rises  to  a  height  of  about  370  feet,  or 
a  little  higher  than  St  Paul's  Cathedral 
It  is  profusely  gilt  from  base  to  summit, 
and  is  surmounted  by  the  usual  gilt 
iron  work  ti  or  "umbrella,"  on  each  of 
whose  many  rings  haug  multitudes  of 
gold  and  silver  jewelled  bells.  This  ti 
was  presented  by  Mindon  Min,  the  late 
king  of  Burma,  and  was  placed  on  the 
summit  at  a  cost  of  about  £50, 000.  It 
was  constructed  by  voluntary  labour, 
and  subscriptions  in  money  and  jewels, 
with  which  the  vane  and  uppermost 
band  are  richly  studded,  flowed  in 
from  all  parts  of  Burma.  A  few  years 
ago  the  whole  pagoda  was  regilt,  and 
the  U  was  then  lowered  to  the  plat- 
form, and  replaced,  renovated,  and 
with  many  costly  jewels  added.  At 
the  comers  of  the  basement  are  some- 
what Assyrian-like  figures  of  Manot- 
thiha — creatures  with  two  bodies  and 
one  head,  half  lion,  half  man,  with 
huge  ears  and  ruffled  crest — and  all 
round  about  are  stone  figures  of  lions 
displaying  an  ample  show  of  teeth  be- 
tween their  grinning  lips.  The  tale  is 
that  long  years  ago  a  king's  son,  who 
had  been  abandoned  in  the  forest,  was 
found  by  a  lioness  and  suckled  by  her. 
When  the  prince  grew  to  man's  estate 
he  left  his  foster-mother,  and  swam  a 
broad  river  to  escape  from  her.  The 
tender  mother's  heart  burst  when  he 
reached  the  other  side,  and  she  died ; 
and,  in  remembrance  of  her  love,  lions' 
figures  are  placed  at  the  foot  of  all 
pagoda  steps,  and  round  the  building 
itself. 

The  four  chapels  at  the  foot  of  the 
pagoda  are  adorned  by  colossal  figures 
of  the  sitting  Buddha,  and  in  the 
farthest  recess,  in  a  niche  of  its  own, 
is  a  still  more  goodly  figure,  the  thick 
gilding  darkened  in  many  places  by 
th«  fumes  of  thousands  of  hunting 

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tapers  and  candles.  Hundreds  of 
Gaudamas,  large  and  small,  sitting, 
standing,  and  reclining,  white  and 
black,  of  alabaster,  son-dried  clay,  or 
wood,  surround  and  are  propped  up  on, 
the  larger  images.  High  stone  altars 
for  the  offering  of  rice  and  flowers 
stand  before  the  lions,  interspersed 
with  niche  altars  for  burnt -offerings. 
On  the  outer  edge  of  the  platform  are 
a  host  of  small  pagodas,  each  with  its 
ti;  Uizaungs,  image-houses  overflowing 
with  the  gifts  of  generations  of  pilgrims ; 
figures  of  Buddha  in  single  low  stone 
chapels  ;  tall  posts  (called  tagundaing), 
flaunting  from  which  are  long  cylind- 
rical streamers  of  bamboo  framework, 
pasted  over  with  paper  depicting  scenes 
from  the  sacred  history,  and  often  in- 
scribed with  pious  invocations  from 
the  offerer,  or  surrounded  by  the  sacred 
Jientha  (Brahminy  goose),  the  emblem 
of  the  Talaings,  or  the  kalaweikt  the 
crane  of  the  Burmese.  Interspersed 
among  these  are  multitudes  of  bells  of 
all  sizes.  The  bells  are  hung  on  stout 
crossbeams,  and  beside  them  lie  deers' 
antlers  and  wooden  stakes  with  which 
the  worshipper  strikes  them  as  he 
passes,  and  so  calls  the  attention  of 
nats  and  men  to  his  acts  of  piety.  In 
the  N.E.  corner,  covered  by  a  gaily 
decorated  wooden  shed,  hangs  a  bell 
of  enormous  size,  inside  which  half  a 
dozen  men  can  stand.  It  was  pre- 
sented by  King  Tharrawaddy  in  1840, 
and  is  said  to  weigh  42^  tons,  and  to 
be  the  third  largest  bell  in  the  world. 
It  bears  a  long  inscription  recounting 
the  merits  gained  by  the  monarch  who 

g resented  it.  The  bell  has  a  curious 
istoiy.  After  the  second  Burmese 
war  tne  English  made  an  attempt  to 
carry  it  off  to  Calcutta  as  a  trophy, 
but  by  some  mishap  it  was  sunk  to 
the  bottom  of  the  Rangoon  river.  The 
English  engineers  failed  to  raise  it. 
The  Burmans  after  some  years  begged 
that  the  sacred  bell  might  be  restored 
to  them,  if  they  could  recover  it.  The 
petition  was  granted  with  a  sneer  ;  but 
they  set  to  work,  got  it  out,  and 
carried  it  in  triumph  to  the  place 
where  it  now  hangs.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  describe  in  any  detail 
|he  myriad  objects  of  interest  which 


are  gathered  on  the  pagoda  platfcvm ; 
but  the  traveller  should  not  fail  to 
examine  the  magnificent  carving  at 
the  head  of  the  eastern  ascent,  nor 
that  on  the  canopy  of  the  colossal 
recumbent  figure  of  Gaudama  on  the 
western  face  of  the  platform.  The 
carving  and  inlaid  glass  work  on  all 
four  of  the  chapels  attached  to  the 
pagoda  itself  deserve  notice,  the  carving 
over  the  eastern  chapel  being  particu- 
larly curious,  inasmuch  as  it  appears 
to  be  illustrative  of  the  capture  of  the 
pagoda  by  the  English.  The  British 
soldiers  with  their  rifles,  and  theii 
officers  each  holding  a  telescope  to  his 
eye,  are  clearly  recognisable  on  the 
highest  tier,  while  on  a  lower  tier  the 
defeated  Burmese  show  little  sign  of 
despondency.  In  the  N.E.  comer  of 
the  platform  will  be  found  the  graves 
of  certain  ofiicers  killed  in  the  second 
Burmese  war.  To  the  W.  of  the  plat- 
form is  the  Government  ArsenaL  At 
the  base  of  the  pagoda  hill  are  many 
monasteries  embowered  in  groves  of 
palmyra  palms  and  shady  trees,  and  to 
the  S.  is  a  small  convent  of  nuns,  not 
far  from  the  Rest-House  built  by  the 
King  of  Siam  for  pilgrims  from  his 
dominions. 

The  platform  is  never  deserted. 
Even  long  after  midnight  the  voice 
of  the  worshipper  may  be  heard  in 
the  night  air  chanting  his  pious 
aspirations,  while  on  feast  days  the 
laughing,  joyous  crowd  of  men  and 
maidens  in  their  gay  national  dress 
makes  the  platform  of  the  Shwedagon 
one  of  the  finest  sights  in  the  world. 
The  visitor  should,  if  possible,  take  an 
interpreter  with  him,  and  should  pro- 
vide himself  with  a  few  rupees.  He 
can  then,  if  he  pleases,  have  his  fortune 
told  by  one  of  the  numerous  sayaSj 
who  are  always  to  be  found  on  the 
platform ;  or  he  can  buy  for  a  rupee 
or  two  one  of  the  (Quaint  triangular 
gongs  used  by  the  religious  mendicants 
to  attract  the  attention  of  the  pious, 
or  supply  himself  with  gold  lea^ 
prayer  flags,  flowers,  or  snecimens  of 
the  curious  marionettes  and  other  toys 
which  are  offered  for  sale  on  the  steps 
and  on  the  platform. 

Buddhists  fix  the  date  of  the  erection 

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423 


of  the  Shwedagon  pagoda  at  588  b.c.; 
but  state  that  the  site  was  sacred  for 
cycles  before,  since  the  relics  of  the 
tliree  preceding  Buddhas  were  found 
interred  when  the  two  Talaing  brothers, 
Pic  and  Tapaw,  came  with  their 
precious  eight  hairs  of  Gaudama  to  the 
sacred  hill.  The  original  pagoda  is 
said  to  have  been  only  27  ft.  high, 
and  to  have  attained  its  present  height 
by  being  repeatedly  cased  with  an 
outer  covering  of  bncks  several  feet  in 
thickness.  The  shrine  has  remained 
unaltered  in  size  and  shape  since  1564, 
and  probably  will  never  be  altered 
again.  At  all  times  and  at  all  dis- 
tances it  looks  imposing  and  sublime, 
like  the  religion  whose  followers  have 
built  it.  It  looks  best,  perhaps,  on  a 
blight  moonlight  night,  and  the 
traveller  is  advised,  if  practicable,  to 
pay  a  visit  to  the  platform  by  night 
as  well  as  by  day.  For  the  above  de- 
scription of  the  pagoda  the  compiler  is 
mainly  indebted  to  Mr.  Scott  (Shway 
Yoe). 

The  Sule  Pagoda  close  to  the  Strand. 
This  pagoda  is  well  worth  a  visit, 
and  the  traveller  will  do  well  to 
ascend  the  platform  and  examine  the 
many  curious  shrines  and  figures  with 
which  it  is  adorned.  Among  others 
will  be  found  a  representation  of  the 
Sule  Naty  the  spirit  after  whom  the 
pagoda  is  named,  the  legendary 
guardian  of  the  hill  upon  which  the 
Shwedagon  pagoda  is  erected. 

The  Rangoon  Monasteries  are  very 
numerous.  They  are  none  of  them 
of  any  special  interest,  and  the  travel- 
ler  will  probably  be  satisfied  by  paying 
a  brief  visit  to  two  or  three  of  them. 
Some  of  the  most  picturesque  are  at 
Kemmendine,  near  the  rly.  sta.,  and 
a  visit  to  them  may  be  combined  with 
an  inspection  of  the  images  of  Gaudama 
in  process  of  manufacture  hard  by, 
and  of  the  shops  of  the  kalaga  makers, 
which  are  also  at  Kemmendine.  The 
kalaga  is  a  kind  of  blanket,  usually 
red,  covered  with  strange  figures  in 
appliqu^  work.  KaZagas  can  some- 
tmies  be  purchased  ready-made,  but 
must  usually  be  ordered  beforehand. 
They   make   quaint    and    handsome 


portUres  or  hangings.  There  are  other 
larse  monasteries  in  Godwin  Road, 
and  at  Pazundaung  (see  Index,  *' Mon- 
asteries "). 

(2)  The  Bazaars  and  Native  Shops. 
— The  bazaars  are  a  great  institution 
throughout  Burma.  They  are  large 
markets,  usually  the  property  of  the 
State  or  of  the  Municipality,  in 
which  much  of  the  retail  trade  of  the 
country  is  carried  on.  They  are  idso 
the  ae&t  centres  of  gossip  among 
the  jBurmese.  A  visit  should  be 
made  to  the  Municipal  bazaars  on  the 
Strand  Road  and  at  Kemmendine,  and 
to  the  Swratee  bazaar  in  China  Street. 
At  the  bazaar  in  Strand  Road  speci- 
mens of  thb  silks  and  lacquer  work 
for  which  Burma  is  famous  can  be 
purchased.  Apart  from  the  bazaars, 
the  native  shops  are  not  of  special 
interest  At  GoanamaVs,  in  Merchant 
Street,  tolerable  specimens  of  various 
forms  of  native  art  may  be  purchased 
at  fairly  reasonable  prices ;  but  the 
traveller  who  desires  the  best,  or  who 
wishes  to  see  the  articles  in  process 
of  manufacture,  should  go  to  Godwin 
Road  for  silver  work  or  wood  carving. 
He  will  find  several  shops  on  the  W. 
side  of  the  road.  For  silver  work 
Maung  Shtoe  Von  and  Ma/u/ng  Po 
Thet  are  about  the  best.  But  these 
men  maintain  little  or  no  stock  of 
articles  for  sale.  The  traveller  must 
order  what  he  wants  and  be  content 
to  wait  some  time  before  he  gets  it. 
The  usual  charge  for  embossed  silver 
bowls  is  doubk  the  weight  of  the 
finished  bowl  in  rupees ;  out  for  the 
finest  work  even  higher  prices  are 
charged. 

(3)  The  Bice,  Timber,  and  Oil  Works. 

— It  will  be  worth  while  to  pay  a  visit 
to  one  of  the  great  rice  mills.  Those 
oi  Messrs.  MohrBros,,  at  Kemmendine, 
and  of  Messrs,  Bulloch  Bros.,  at 
Pazundaung,  are  two  of  the  largest,  and 
permission  to  visit  them  can  generally 
be  obtained  without  diflBculty  at  the 
head  ofiices  of  the  firms.  Messrs. 
Mojcgregor's  Timber  -  yard  at  Alon 
should  also  be  visited.  Elephants 
are    employed    there    to    staok    the 


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timber,  and  it  is  interesting  to  observe 
tbe  intelligence  with  which  they 
perform  the  task.  The  oil -works  of 
Messrs,  Finlayy  Fleming,  wnd  Co,,  at 
Pazondaung,  are  also  worth  seeing. 

(4)  The  Public  Buildings. — Rangoon 
cannot  at  present  boast  of  many  fine 
public  buildings.  The  Court  Houses 
and  Post  and  Telegraph  Offices  and  the 
Sailor's  Home  are  on  the  Strand,  and 
a  fine  pile  of  buildings  has  recently 
been  erected,  at  a  cost  of  seven  lakhs 
of  rupees,  in  Dalhousie  Street,  for  the 
accommodation  of  the  Secretariat  and 
other  public  offices.  This  is  at  present, 
undoubtedly,  the  finest  building  in 
Bangoon  and  deserves  a  visit.  In 
front  of  it  will  be  noticed  the  "  Ser- 
Tices  Memorial,"  a  drinking  fountain 
erected  by  members  of  the  various 
civil  services  of  the  Province  in  memory 
of  their  comrades  who  were  killed  or 
died  during  the  8rd  Burmese  war.  The 
names  of  the  officers  commemorated 
are  inscribed  on  the  shields  surrounding 
the  fountain.  In  China  Street  is  the 
new  Cathedral,  and  in  the  Eemmen- 
dine  Road  the  new  Oovemment  House, 
a  handsome  three -storied  building, 
erected  at  a  cost  of  six  lakhs  of  rupees. 
The  architect  of  these  three  buildings  is 
Mr.  Hoyne  Fox,  an  engineer  of  the 
Public  Works  Dept.  The  Rangoon 
College  and  the  Oeneral  Hospital, 
situated  on  either  side  of  China  Street, 
are  spacious  teak  buildings  of  no  special 
architectural  merit.  Travellers  inter- 
ested in  the  progress  of  education  in 
the  East  would  do  well  to  pay  a  visit 
to  the  college  and  also  to  St.  John's 
(S.P.G.),  ^mmendine  (behind  the 
Gymkhana),  St.  Paul's  (Roman  Cath. ) 
near  the  new  public  buildings,  and  the 
Baptist  Institutions  at  Alon.  The 
Bernard  Ftee  Library  attached  to  the 
Rangoon  College  contains  an  interesting 
collection  of  ancient  Pali  and  Burmese 
palm-leaf  manuscripts,  and  the  Phayre 
Museum  close  by  may  be  considered 
worth  a  visit.  The  museum  is  sur- 
rounded by  the  Horticnltural  Gardenf*, 
in  which  a  small  collection  of  wild 
beasts  forms  a  gi-ent  attraction  for  the 
Burmese.  In  these  gardens  stands 
»Uo  9,  statue  to  Sir  i^thur  Phayre, 


first  Chief  Commissioner  of  Bnrmi. 
The  only  other  statue  in  Rangoon  is 
one  of  H.M.  the  Queen  Empress, 
erected  in  1895,  in  Dalhousie  S()Qare. 
In  the  N.K  comer  of  the  Parade 
ground  the  '^ Jubilee  Hall"  is  nov 
in  process  of  erection.  Lastly  among 
public  buildings  may  be  mentioned 
the  Jail  in  iB.il  Road,  one  of  ths 
largest  in  the  British  Empire,  having 
accommodation  for  over  8000  jorisoners. 
Permission  to  inspect  the  jail  may  be 
obtained  by  application  to  the  Saper- 
intendent.  Many  dififerent  industries 
are  conducted  by  the  prisoners,  and  in 
the  jail  salesroom  specimens  of  their 
handicraft  may  be  purchased. 

(5)  The  Cantonments  and  LaJces.— 
These  afibrd  pretty  rides  and  drives, 
but  the  traveller  who  can  obtain  no 
better  means  of  conveyance  than  a  ticca 
gharry  will  probably  not  care  to  drive 
far.  He  should,  however,  take  at  least 
one  drive  in  Cantonments,  say  along 
Godwin  Road,  past  the  Parade  groimd 
and  Race  Course,  then  to  the  1.  past  the 
Pegu  Club  to  the  Prome  Road,  then 
along  Prome  Road  to  Halpin  Road  (the 
"  ladies'  mile  "),  along  Halpin  Road  to 
the  Gymkhana,  thence  ).iast  Government 
House  alonff  Eemmendine  Road  to  the 
Great  Pagoda,  and  thence  through  the 
Cantonment  gardens  and  bade  by 
Voyles  Road  to  the  town. 

Another  drive  which  should  on  no 
account  be  omitted  is  round  the  Boyal 
Lake  and  through  Dalhousie  Park. 
Those  who  are  prepared  to  go  further 
afield  oan  obtain  a  very  pretty  drive 
by  going  along  the  Prome  Road  to 
the  Victoria  Lake,  which  supplies  Ban- 
goon  with  water,  skirting  the  lake  and 
returning  by  the  Kokine  Road.  By  this 
road  (total  distance  about  15  m.)  they 
will  pass  through  miles  of  pineapple 
gardens,  among  which  various  pictur- 
esque and  8ha(fy  rides  can  be  had. 

(6)  Syriam.  —The  traveller  who  has  in 
afternoon  to  spare,  and  who  can  obtain 
the  use  of  one  of  the  numerous  steam 
launches  belonging  to  the  Government 
or  to  any  of  the  local  firms,  may  well  pay 
a  visit  to  Syriam.  This  is  now  a  mere 
village  of  some  2000  infaaiyitants,  bat 

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425 


was  formerly  a  place  of  some  import- 
atice,  and  is  of  special  interest  as  being 
the  site  of  the  earliest  European  settle- 
ments of  any  importance  in  Burma. 
The  town  is  said  to  have  been  estab- 
lished in  A.D.  787,  but  little  is  known 
of  its  history  up  to  the  16th  cent.,  when 
it  was  presented  by  the  king  of  Arrakan 
to  Philip  de  Brito  who,  with  his  Portu- 
guese, had  assisted  the  king  in  the 
conquest  of  Pegu.  In  1613  Syriam 
was  besieged  and  captured  by  the  king 
of  Ava,  aU  the  Portuguese  being  either 
slain  or  sent  to  Upper  Burma,  where  a 
few  of  their  descendants  exist  to  this 
day;.  From  1631  to  1677  the  Dutch 
maintained  a  factory  at  Syriam.  The 
English  also  had  a  factory,  which  was 
re-established  in  1698,  and  destroyed  by 
the  Burmese  in  1743.  Nothing  now 
remains  of  the  once  flourishing  Portu- 
guese, Dutch,  and  English  factories 
except  the  substantial  ruins  of  an  old 
church,  some  tombs,  and  the  founda- 
tions of  a  few  masonry  houses.  The 
Church  was  built  by  Monsei^eur 
Nerini,  the  second  vicar  apostolic  of 
Ava  and  Pegu,  in  the  early  part  of  the 
18th  cent.  In  1756  the  Bishop  was 
murdered  by  Alompra.  From  that 
year  until  1760  the  mission  remained 
destitute,  and  was  then  removed  to 
Eangoon.  The  ruined  church  is  now 
buried  in  the  jungle,  about  i  m.  from 
the  landing  stage.  If  the  traveller  is 
accompanied  by  an  interpreter  he  will 
have  no  diflBculty  in  finding  some  one 
in  the  village  to  show  him  the  way  to 
the  ruins.  6  m.  from  Syriam  is  a 
large  Pagoda  standing  on  a  hill,  which 
affords  a  fine  view. 


ROUTE  1 

To  Mandalay,  Bhamo,  and  the 
first  defile  returning  to 
Rangoon  via  Promb 

The  arrangements  for  this  tour  will 
depend  entirely  upon  the  amount  of 
time  whieh  the  traveller  is  prepared  to 


devote  to  it.  If  he  has  only  a  few 
days  at  his  disposal  he  will  not  be  able 
to  do  more  than  proceed  to  MandcUay 
by  rail,  spend  two  or  three  days  there, 
and  return  by  the  same  route  to 
Rangoon.  If  he  has  a  week  at  his  dis- 
posal he  may  proceed  to  Mandalay  by 
rail,  stopping  an  afternoon  at  FegUf 
and  may  return  by  steamer  to  ProTrve, 
and  thence  by  rail  to  Rangoon ;  three 
weeks  will  enable  him  to  extend  his 
tour  to  BhaTTW ;  and  a  longer  period 
to  go  on  to  the  first  defile  and  to  break 
the  return  journey  at  the  Ruby  Mines^ 
at  Pagan,  and  at  Yenangyaung,  A 
visit  to  the  Ruby  Mines  will  involve 
special  arrangements  as  the  mines  are 
situated  about  50  m.  from  the  river 
bank,  and  can  only  be  reached  by  riding 
that  distance,  the  baggage  being  carried 
on  mules.  Pagan  and  Yenangyaung 
can  be  more  easily  managed  as  they 
are  near  the  river  bank,  but  a  visit  to 
either  place  will  involve  carrying  a 
certain  amount  of  camp  kit,  with  food 
and  cooking  arrangements,  as  there  are 
no  hotels  at  either  place.  In  the 
following  paragraphs  a  few  brief 
particulars  will  be  given  of  the 
principal  places  which  may  be  visited 
on  a  somewhat  prolonged  tour.  The 
traveller  must  decide  for  himself  what 
to  see  and  what  to  omit. 

The  daily  mail  train  to  Mandalay 
leaves  Rangoon  (Phayre  Street  Station) 
at  about  5.30  P.M.  and  reaches  Man- 
dalay at  about  4  o'clock  on  the 
following  afternoon.  The  traveller 
who  wishes  to  see  Pegu  should,  how- 
ever, select  a  train  starting  earlier  in 
the  day  so  as  to  allow  himself  a  few 
hours  of  daylight  at  Pegu,  after  which 
he  can  dine  at  the  railway  refreshment 
rooms  and  go  on  by  the  night  mail  to 
Mandalay. 

46  m.  PEGU,  sta.,  a  town  of  12,000 
inhabitants,  the  headquarters  of  the 
district  of  that  name,  is  said  to  have  been 
founded  in  573  A.  D.  by  emigrants  from 
Thaton,  and  was  once  the  capital  of  the 
Taking  kingdom.  It  is  described  by 
European  travellers  of  the  16th  century 
as  of  great  size,  strength,  and  magnific- 
ence. It  was  destroyed  by  Alompra, 
but  rebuilt  under  Boiawpaya.    Of  lat© 

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years  the  population  has  very  greatly 
increased.  It  is  interesting  chiefly  on 
account  of  its  pagodas  and  a  colossal 
figure  of  Gaudama. 

The  Shwemawdaw  Pagoda,  said  to 
contain  two  hairs  of  Buddha,  is  a  shrine 
of  great  sanctity.  Successive  kings 
of  Burma  and  Pegu  lavished  their 
treasures  on  it  in  repairing  and  enlarg- 
ing it.  When  originally  built  it  was 
only  75  ft.  high,  but  as  it  now  stands 
it  is  about  288  ft.  high  and  about  1360 
ft.  in  circumference  at  the  base.  It 
was  last  repaired  by  Bodawpaya  about 
100  years  ago,  and  has  recently  been 
regilt  under  the  supervision  of  the 
local  elders. 

The  enormous  recumbent  figure  of 
Gaudama,  known  as  the  Shwetha- 
yaong  is  close  to  the  railway  station 
and  deserves  a  visit.  It  is  181  ft.  long, 
aud  46  ft.  high  at  the  shoulder.  Its 
history  is  unknown.  Pegu  was  taken 
by  Alompra  in  1757  a.d.,  and  utterly 
destroyed  for  a  generation.  In  the 
meanwhile  all  remembrance  of  this 
gigantic  image  was  lost.  The  place  on 
which  it  was  situated  had  become  deuse 
jungle,  and  the  image  itself  turned  into 
what  appeared  to  be  a  jungle-covered 
hillock.  In  1881  the  railway  was 
being  constructed,  and  laterite  was 
required  for  the  permanent  way.  A 
local  contractor,  in  searching  for 
laterite,  came  across  a  quantity  in  the 
jungle,  and  on  clearing  the  place  un- 
covered the  image  which  has  ever  since 
been  an  object  of  veneration.  The  red 
brick  is  now  being  gradually  encased 
in  white  plaster  by  the  pious.  Not  far 
from  this  is  the  Kyaikpun  pagoda  with 
four  colossal  figures  of  Buddha,  each 
about  90  ft.  high,  seated  back  to  back. 
There  are  many  other  objects  of  anti- 
quarian interest  in  Pegu,  such  as  the 
Ealyanisima  or  ancient  Hall  of  Ordina- 
tion, in  the  Zainganaing  quarter  to 
the  west  of  Pegu,  founded  by  King 
Damacheti  in  1476  a.d.,  and  the 
Shweguzale  pagoda  with  its  64  images 
of  Buddha  apparently  constructed  by 
Siamese  architects.  Near  the  Kalyani- 
sima  are  10  large  stones  covered  with 
Pali  and  Taking  inscriptions.  A  good 
panoramic  view  of  Pegu  and  its  suburbs 
is  obtained  from  the  Sbweaon^^Q 


pagoda  which  is  situated  at  the  south- 
east corner  of  the  city  walls.  At  aboQt 
700  yards  from  the  southern  laoe  is 
Jetuvati,  the  encampment  of  Alompn 
when  he  beleaguered  the  town  in  1757 
A.D.  Within  the  walls  are  visible  the 
sites  of  the  palaces  of  the  kings  of 
Hanthawaddy.  Traces  of  a  doaUe 
wall  and  moat  may  also  be  seen. 

Rejoining  the  train  at  about  9  o'clock 
the  traveller  will  pass  through  the 
Shwegyin  and  Toungoo  districts  of 
Lower  Burma  during  the  night,  and 
will  in  the  early  morning  cross  the  old 
British  frontier  into  the  Upper  Burma 
district  of  Fyinmana.  He  will  obtain 
chota  hazri  at  Fyinmana,  a  town  of 
14,000  inhabitants,  and  breakfist  at 
Varaethinf  the  headquarters  of  the 
district  of  that  name.  Between 
Pjrinmana  and  Yamethin,  and  thence 
on  to  Kyaukse,  he  will  see  to  the  E. 
the  range  of  hills  which  divides  Burma 
from  the  Shan  States,  including  (to  the 
S.E.  of  Yamethin)  the  triple  p^  of 
the  Byingye  range  (6000),  where  it  is 
proposed  to  form  a  sanitarium.  The 
Kyaukse  district  is  the  most  fertile 
in  Upper  Burma,  an  ingenious  sysbaa 
of  irrigation  works  enabling  tibe 
cultivator  to  obtain  three  or  four  crops 
of  rice  annually  from  the  same  ground. 
Here  the  hills  approach  much  nearer 
to  the  railway,  and  Kyaukse  itself  is 
picturesquely  situated.  The  train  now 
crosses  a  stream,  and  passing  through 
Amarapura,  a  former  capital  of 
Burma,  reaches  Mandalay  at  ahoat 
four  o'clock. 

386  m.  MANDALAY.  :0c  sta.  The 
traveller  will  find  that  he  can  sp«id 
several  days  very  pleasantly  at  Mandalay. 
The  city  contains  about  180,000  inhabi- 
tants, mostly  Burmese,  and  was  from 
1860  up  till  1885  the  capital  of  the 
Burmese  kingdom  and  the  residence  of 
the  King.  The  growth  of  the  city  has 
been  more  rapid  even  than  that  of 
Rangoon,  but  it  was  in  great  part  due 
to  temporary  causes,  now  removed,  and 
in  future  it  may  be  expected  that  the 
population  of  Mandalay  will  dwindk 
rather  than  increase.  The  city  proper 
was  in  Burmese  times  within  t^e  wfljled 

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427 


enclosnre,  which  is  now  used  as  a 
Cantonment  and  called  Fort  DuffeHn. 

A  traveller  bent  on  studying  the 
capital  should  commence  by  ascendiog 
Mandalay  hill,  an  isolated  mound 
rising  abruptly  from  the  flat  plain  on 
which  the  city  is  built.  From  this  point 
of  vantage  he  can  see  spread  out  like  a 
great  map  the  town  of  180,000  inhabi- 
tants, the  fort  with  the  palace  in  the 
centre,  the  temples  and  monuments 
worthy  of  a  royal  city,  and  the  system 
of  irrigation  built  by  King  Mindon, 
with  its  great  artificial  lake  and 
numerous  canals,  which  look  like  silver 
threads  as  they  carry  the  water  over  a 
vast  area  of  country  easily  discernible 
in  the  clear  and  brilliant  light.  At 
the  summit  of  the  hill  was  formerly  a 
wooden  temple  containing  a  huge 
standing  figure  pointing  with  his  finger 
at  the  palace  beneath.  Both  temple  and 
figure  were  recently  destroyed  by  fire. 

Fort  DuJOTerin  will  next  claim  atten- 
tion. This  great  square  fort,  built  to 
guard  the  palace,  with  sides  1 J  m.  long, 
is  enclosed  by  walls  of  red  brick  26  ft. 
high,  machicolated  at  the  top  to  serve 
the  purpose  of  loopholes.  They  are 
backed  by  a  mound  of  earth,  so  that 
defenders  can  look  over  them.  On 
each  of  the  four  sides  stand,  at  equal 
distances,  13  peculiar  and  elegant 
watch-towers  of  Burman  design,  built 
of  teak  and  freely  ornamented  with 
gold.  One  of  these,  enclosed  and  en- 
larged, forms  the  nucleus  of  Govern- 
ment House,  the  residence  of  the 
Chief  Commissioner  when  at  Mandalay. 
Outside  the  walls,  and  surrounding  the 
fort,  is  a  broad  Moat  full  of  water, 
100  yds.  wide.  It  is  crossed  by  five 
wooden  bridges,  one  in  the  middle  of 
3ach  side,  and  an  extra  one  on  the  W. 
face  which  was  formerly  reserved  for 
funeral  processions.  It  abounds  with 
ish,  and  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year 
large  patches  of  the  surface  of  the 
^ater  are  covered  with  the  broad 
jircular  leaves  and  beautiful  pink  and 
jvhite  flowers  of  the  lotus  plants,  which 
tiave  their  roots  at  the  bottom.  On 
;his  moat,  in  the  King's  time,  were 
jeveral  state  barges,  gilt  from  stem  to 
jtem,  some  of  them  propelled  by  as 
nany  as  sixty  rowers. 


There  are  12  gates  through  the  fort 
wall,  three  on  each  side  equally  spaced. 
In  front  of  each  gate  stands  the  wooden 
image  of  a  guaraian  Twty  and  a  massive 
teak  post  bearing  the  name  and  sign  of 
the  gate.  It  is  under  or  near  these 
posts  that  the  bodies  of  the  unfortunate 
victims  rest,  who  are  said  to  have  been 
buried  alive,  in  order  that  their  spirits 
might  watch  over  the  gates. 

Exactly  in  the  centre  of  the  fort 
stands  the  royal  Palace  or  Nandaw»  A 
plan  showing  the  disposition  of  the 
palace  buildings  at  the  time  of  the 
annexation  will  be  found  in  Dr. 
Oertel's  Notes  on  a  Tour  in  Burma 
(Govt.  Press,  Rangoon,  1893),  from 
which  work  the  present  description  of 
the  palace  has  been  condensed.  The 
palace  was  formerly  a  square  fortified 
enclosure,  defended  by  an  outer  palisade 
of  teak  posts  20  ft.  high  and  an  inner 
brick  wall,  with  an  open  esplanade  of 
about  60  ft.  width  between  them. 
This  walled  square  was  cut  up  into 
numerous  courts  surrounded  by  high 
walls,  and  in  the  very  centre,  to  make 
it  as  secure  as  possible,  was  an  inner 
enclosure  containing  the  palace.  To 
the  N.  and  S.  of  the  inner  palace 
enclosure  are  two  walled-in  gardens, 
containing  royal  pavilions,  and  laid 
out  with  canals,  artificial  lakes,  and 
grottoes.  The  outer  stockade  and  all 
the  brick  walls  have  now  been  removed, 
as  also  many  of  the  minor  structures  ; 
the  chief  palace  buildings  are,  however, 
still  standing. 

Four  strongly  guarded  gates  led 
through  the  outer  defences.  The  large 
gates  were  only  opened  for  the  King  ; 
all  other  people  had  to  squeeze  through 
the  red  postern  at  the  side,  which 
obliged  them  to  bow  lowly  as  they 
drew  near  the  royal  precincts.  Enter- 
ing the  eastern  gate,  which  is  still 
standing,  one  crossed  a  wide  enclosure 
which  contained  a  number  of  subsidiary 
buildings,  such  as  the  armoury,  printing 
press,  mint,  quarters  for  servants  and 
guard,  the  royal  monastery.  King 
Alindon's  mausoleum,  and  the  houses 
of  a  few  of  the  highest  officials.  Be- 
yond this  was  another  spacious  court  in 
front  of  the  palace,  at  the  northern  end 
of  which  races  and  sports  used  to  take 

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India 


place  before  the  King.  In  the  centre 
of  this  court  stands  the  great  hall  of 
audience,  with  the  lion  throne,  pro- 
jecting out  boldly  from  the  face  of  the 
palace,  with  which  it  is  connected  at 
the  back.  The  private  part  of  the 
palace  is  behind  this,  on  an  elevated 
oblong  platform  in  an  inner  enclosure, 
which  was  entered  through  two  jeal- 
ously-giiarded  gates  on  each  side  of  the 
hall  of  audience.  At  the  western  end 
of  the  palace  platform  is  a  private 
audience  hall,  with  the  lily  throne, 
where  ladies  were  received,  and  between 
the  two  halls  of  audience  are  numerous 
wooden  pavilions,  formerly  occupied  by 
the  various  queens  and  princesses. 
Over  the  lion  throne  rises  the  high 
seven-storied  gilded  spire  or  shwepya- 
that,  the  external  emblem  of  royalty. 
The  Burmans  used  to  call  this  spire  the 
*'  Centre  of  the  Universe,"  arguing  with 
true  national  arrogance  that  it  is  the 
centre  of  Mandalay,  which  is  the  centre 
of  Burma,  and  hence  of  the  world. 

In  the  S.  garden  is  a  small  pavilion, 
used  as  a  summer  house  by  King 
Thebaw,  on  the  verandah  of  which 
he  surrendered  himself  to  General 
Prendergast  and  Colonel  Sladen  on 
November  29,  1885.  A  brass  tablet 
records  the  fact.  The  richly-carved 
Pongyi  Kyaung  to  the  E.  of  the  palace, 
where  King  Thebaw  passed  the  period 
of  priesthood,  is  worthy  of  notice.  It 
is  now  used  as  a  Chapel.  Hard  by  is 
KingMindon's  mausoleum,  a  brick  and 
plaster  structure,  consisting  of  a  square 
chamber  surmounted  by  a  seven-storied 
spire.  Mindon  Min  was  buried  here  in 
1878.  The  palace  buildings  were  for  a 
time  used  for  barracks  and  offices,  but 
they  were  found  unhealthy,  and  the 
troops  have  been  removed  to  the  new 
barracks  outside.  The  great  hall  of 
audience  is  still  used  by  the  military 
as  a  church,  while  the  private  audience 
hall  and  surrounding  buildings  afford 
accommodation  to  the  Upper  Burma 
Club. 

PAGODAS  AND  MONASTERIES.  — 
The  whole  neighbourhood  of  Man- 
dalay, Amarapura,  and  Ava  is  rich  with 
splendid  fanes,  of  which  it  would  be 
impossible  to  give  any  detailed  account 


within  the  limits  of  these  pages.  Some 
of  the  finest  monasteries,  including  the 
AtuTiKishif  or  *' incomparable"  monas- 
tery, have  been  burnt  down  within  &e 
past  few  years  ;  but  the  "  450  pagodas  " 
and  the  Glass  Monastery  hard  by,  and 
not  far  from  the  base  of  Mandalay  hill, 
remain,  and  should  be  visited,  as  also 
the  Queen's  GK>lden  Monastery  in  B. 
Road  and  the  Arrakan  Pagoda. 

The  450  Pagodas  is  a  very  remarkaUe 
work.  King  Thebaw's  uncle,  anxious 
that  the  holy  books  of  Buddhism  should 
be  recorded  in  an  enduring  form,  called 
together  the  most  learned  of  the  priests 
to  transcribe  the  purest  version  of  the 
commandments ;  this  he  caused  to  he 
engraved  on  450  large  stones  of  the 
same  pattern.  These  stones  were  set 
up  in  an  enclosed  square,  and  over 
each  was  erected  a  small  domed  build- 
ing to  preserve  it  from  the  weather. 
The  enclosure  is  about  i  m.  square, 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall  with 
ornamental  gates  ;  in  the  centre  stands 
a  temple  of  the  usual  form. 

The  Glass  Monastery,  so  called  from 
the  profusion  of  inlaid  glass  work 
with  which  the  interior  and  exterior 
are  decorated,  is  close  by,  and  in  the 
neighbourhood  also  is  the  monastery 
of  the  Thathanabaingf  or  Buddhist 
Archbishop,  to  whom  flie  traveller  may 
be  disposed  to  pay  the  compliment  of  a 
visit.  The  Queen's  Golden  Monasteiy 
in  B.  Road  is  now  probably  the  hand- 
somest building  of  the  kind  in  Burma. 
It  is  built  of  teak  in  the  ordinary 
form,  but  is  profusely  decorated  with 
elaborate  carving,  and  is  heavily  gilt 
within  and  without.  The  traveller 
should  ask  permission  from  one  of  the 
yellow-robed  fraternity,  of  -whom  he 
will  be  sure  to  find  some  in  the  court- 
yard, to  inspect  the  interior  of  this 
monastery.  His  next  visit  may  be  to 
the  Mahd  My  at  Mun%  or  ''Airakas 
Pagoda."  The  Maha  Myat  Moni 
pagoda  is  rendered  especially  sacred 
by  the  great  sitting  image  of  Gandanw 
there  preserved,  and  is  on  this  account 
regarded  by  Upper  Burmans  as  not 
inferior  in  sanctity  to  the  Shwedagon 
itself.  The  huge  brass  image,  12  ft  in 
height,  was  brought  over  the  hills  from 
Akyab  in  1784.  The  image  was  origin- 
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420 


ally  set  up,  i6  says  Shway  Yoe,  quot- 
ing the  ancient  legend,  during  the  life- 
time of  the  great  master.  The  utmost 
skill  and  most  persistent  energy  had 
failed  in  fitting  the  parts  together,  till 
the  Buddha  perceiving  from  afar,  what 
was  going  on,  and  ever  full  of  pity, 
came  himself  to  the  spot,  and  embrac- 
ing the  image  seven  times,  so  joined 
together  the  fragments  that  the  most 
sceptical  eye  cannot  detect  the  points 
of  junction.  So  like  was  the  image,  and 
so  sublime  the  effulgence  which  shone 
around  during  the  manifestation,  that 
the  reverently-gazing  crowd  could  not 
determine  which  was  the  model  and 
which  was  the  master.  The  resem- 
blance has  no  doubt  faded  away  with 
the  wickedness  of  later  times,  for,  un- 
like most  Burmese  images,  this  paya 
has  most  gross  and  repmsive  features. 
The  shrine  in  which  it  stands  is  one 
of  the  most  splendid  in  the  country. 
The  image  itself  is  covered  by  a  great 
seven  -  roofed  pyathat  with  goodly 
pillars,  the  ceiling  gorgeous  with 
mosaics.  Long  colonnades,  supported 
on  252  massive  pillars,  all  richly  gilt 
and  carved  with  frescoed  roof  and  sides, 
lead  up  to  it.  All  day  long  circles  of 
constantly-renewed  worshippers  chant 
aloud  the  praises  of  the  Buddha,  and 
the  air  is  thick  with  the  effluvia  of 
candles  and  the  odours  from  thousands 
of  smouldering  incense  sticks.  Within 
the  precincts  of  the  pagoda  is  a  large 
tank  tenanted  by  sacred  turtle,  who 
wax  huge  on  the  rice  and  cakes  thrown 
to  them  by  multitudes  of  pilgrims. 
Probably  not  even  at  the  Shwedagon 
pagoda  is  more  enthusiastic  devotion 
shown  than  here. 

A  great  Bazaar  is  situated  in  the 
centre  of  the  population.  Grain  and 
vegetable  vendors,  silversmiths,  toy, 
umbrella,  and  lacquer  makers,  silk 
merchants,  and  numerous  other  traders 
occupy  streets  of  stalls.  Burmese 
ladies  in  the  usual  tight-fitting  petti- 
coat of  gay  silk  and  white  jacket, 
attended  by  a  maid,  may  be  seen 
making  their  daily  household  pur- 
chases ;  groups  of  girls  with  flowers 
in  their  hair  and  huge  cigars  in  their 
mouths,  price  the  sUks  of  which  all 


Bnrmans  are  so  fond.  Many  strangers 
to  the  city,  come  on  business  or 
pleasure,  wander  about  deeply  inter- 
ested in  the  display  on  the  stalls. 
Nowhere  else  can  be  seen  gathered 
together  representatives  of  so  many 
widely  -  separated  and  little  -  known 
tribes,  differing  in  dress,  and  forming 
a  babel  of  languages.  Chins  from  the 
western  mountains,  Shans  from  the 
east,  Kachins  from  the  north,  and 
Chinese  from  the  little -known  in- 
land borders  of  the  Empire,  all  meet 
here ;  and  Sikhs,  Goorkhas,  Madrassis, 
with  many  other  tribes  from  India, 
are  amongst  the  motley  throng. 
Everywhere  there  is  colour  and  move- 
ment, and  the  scene  is  as  lively  as  it 
is  uncommon.  The  bazaar  well  de- 
serves a  visit,  and  is,  indeed,  the  best 
place  in  Burma  for  the  purchase  of 
silks.  Curious  old  specimens  of  silver 
work  may  also  sometimes  be  picked  up 
there  at  moderate  prices. 

[After  exploring  Mandalay  proper, 
short  excursions  should  be  made  to 
Yankintaung,  to  Amarapura,  to 
Sagaing  and  Ava,  and  to  MiTignn. 

The  hills  called  Yankintaimg  are 
about  5  m.  due  E.  from  Mandalay, 
and  as  the  road  is  not  practicable  for 
carriages,  the  traveller  should  ride. 
There  are  a  number  of  pagodas  and 
monasteries,  and  a  deep  fissure  in  the 
ffround  containing  an  image  of  Gau- 
dama  and  other  curious  objects.  The 
foundations  of  the  colossal  paeoda 
which  Mindon  Min  commenced  here 
may  also  be  examined. 

Amarapura,  which  is  a  few  miles  to 
the  S.  of  Mandalay,  can  be  reached  by 
rail.  It  was  until  1860  the  capital  of 
the  Burmese  kingdom,  and  is  fully 
described  in  Yule's  Mission  to  Ava. 
Only  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  capital 
now  remain,  but  they  are  interesting, 
and  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 

Sagaing  and  Ava  can  also  be  readily 
visited  by  rail.  Ava  was  the  prede- 
cessor of  Amarapura  as  the  capital  of 
Burma.  Little  trace  now  remains  of 
the  city  of  Ava,  but  on  both  sides  of 
the  river  are  hundreds  of  pagodas  of 

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BURMA 


IndU 


every  variety  and  degree  of  decoratiou. 
There  is  the  J^agayon  paya^  the  whole 
building  wrought  into  the  form  of 
a  dragon  ;  the  huge  round  •  domed 
Kaunghnmdaw,  a  few  miles  out  of 
Sagaing  ;  '' glistening  white  pinnacles 
or  flashing  gold  spires  on  the  Sagaing 
hills,  and  on  the  Amarapura  side  great 
massy  temples  frowning  over  the  river 
with  all  the  stem  solidity  of  a  knightly 
hold,  each  with  its  legend — some  tale 
of  bloodshed  or  piety,  some  event  in 
Burmese  history,  or  birth  stoi-y  of  the 
Buddha." 

Sagaing  is  now  the  headquarters  of 
the  Commissioner  of  the  southern 
division  of  Upper  Burma  and  of  the 
Deputy  Commissioner  of  the  Sagaing 
district.  The  traveller  who  wishes  to 
explore  the  pagodas  of  Sagaing  and  Ava 
should  endeavour  to  obtain  an  intro- 
duction to  one  of  these  officials. 

The  last  of  the  excursions  near 
Mandalay  deserving  special  mention  is 
that  to  Mingun,  about  9  m.  above 
Mandalay.  The  up -steamers  of  the 
Irrawadoy  Flotilla  Company  call  there, 
but  the  down-steamers  do  not,  unless 
by  special  arrangement.  Mingun  is 
picturesquely  situated,  and  is  interest- 
ing for  its  great  unfinished  pagoda  and 
for  its  huge  bell.  The  groundwork  of  the 
great  misshapen  Mingun  pagoda  covers 
a  square  of  450  ft.,  and  its  height  is 
155  ft,  about  one-third  of  the  elevation 
intended  for  it  when  completed ;  but 
Mintayagyi,  the  crack-brained  monarch 
who  founded  it,  ran  short  of  funds, 
and  the  buildinff  was  stopped.  In 
1839  an  earthquake  rent  the  gigantic 
cube,  the  largest  mass  of  brickwork  in 
the  world,  with  fantastic  fissures  from 
top  to  bottom,  and  cast  down  great 
masses  of  masonry,  tons  in  weight. 
Overlooking  the  river,  in  front  of  the 
eastern  face  of  the  temple,  stood  two 
gigantic  leogryphs  in  brick.  These 
figures  were  originally  95  ft.  high,  and 
each  of  the  white  marble  eyeballs 
intended  for  the  monsters  measured 
13  ft.  in  circumference.  The  leogryphs 
are  now  in  ruins.  N.  of  the  temple, 
on  a  low  circular  terrace,  stands  the 
biggest  bell  in  Burma — the  biggest  in 
the  world,  probably,  after  the  one  at 
Moscow.     It  is  slung  on  a  tiiple  beam 


of  great  size,  resting  on  two  tiers  of 
brickwork,  enclosing  massiye  frames 
of  teak.  The  bell  does  not  now  swing 
free.  The  supports  were  so  mach 
shaken  by  the  earthquake  that  it  was 
found  necessary  to  put  props  under 
the  bell.  Of  course,  no  tone  can  now 
be  got  out  of  it.  The  diameter  of  the 
bell  at  the  lip  is  16  ft. ,  and  its  heigbt 
12  ft.  Its  weight  is  about  80  tons. 
There  are  other  cuiious  pagodas  in  tk 
neighbourhood.  ] 

The  traveller  who  has  time  to  pro- 
ceed farther  N.  may  either  take  one  of 
the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  steamers  wbicb 
leave  Mandalay  every  Monday  and 
Thursday  for  Bhamo^  or  he  may  take 
the  train.  In  the  latter  case  he  will 
be  able  to  reach  Myitkyina,  724  m. 
from  Eangoon.  The  steamer  route  to 
Bhamo  and  back  (2^  days  up  and  1^ 
day  down)  is  recommended.  The 
steamers  are  well  fitted,  and  the  scenery 
is  fine.  Passing  Sheinmaga  on  the 
rt.,  and  Singu  and  Kyaukmyaung 
on  the  1.,  the  steamer  passes  through 
the  third  defile  to  Thabeikkyin  and 
Kyanhnyat.  Tigyaing  on  the  L 
bank  is  prettily  situated  on  a  hill 
Eatha  is  next  passed  on  the  L  It 
is  the  headquarters  of  the  district  of 
that  name.  The  pagodas  of  Shwegn 
next  come  into  sight  on  the  rt.,  and 
the  steamer  then  passes  through  the 
second  defile  to  Bhamo. 

The  defiles  of  the  river,  as  Bhamo  is 
approached,  are  very  fine.  The  wide 
stream  narrows  to  1000  yds.  and  flows 
for  30  m.  through  a  chain  of  hills 
covered  with  splendid  foliage.  The 
successive  reaches  of  the  river  resemble 
lakes,  being  apparently  shut  in  on  all 
sides.  Beyond  the  hills  is  a  plain, 
and  then  another  defile  through  a 
second  chain  of  hills,  which  is  even 
finer  than  the  last.  The  river  narrows 
to  200  or  300  yds.  and  rushes  through 
the  gap  with  great  velocity.  This  de- 
file extends  for  5  m.,  and  in  one  place 
a  rock  rises  straight  out  of  the  water 
to  a  height  of  600  ft. 

There  is  not  much  to  be  seen  at 
Bhamo,  but  the  place  is  of  interest  as 
being  the  highest  station    on  the  Irra- 


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431 


?; 


Waddy  held  by  British  troops,  and  the 
nearest  point  on  the  Irra waddy  to  the 
Chinese  frontier.  Several  trade  routes 
from  Yunnan  converge  on  Bhamo,  and 
the  importance  of  the  place  may  be 
expectea  to  increase,  if  the  recent 
arrangements  for  the  encouragement 
of  trade  between  Western  China  and 
Burma  prove  successful.  The  Bhamo 
district  is  chiefly  inhabited  by  Kachins, 
wild  hill  men,  who,  in  Burmese  times, 
were  practically  independent,  and 
were  a  constant  source  of  terror  to  the 
caravans  passing  between  Bhamo  and 
China.  The  Kachins  are  now  gradually 
being  reduced  to  order,  and  the  trade 
routes  are  at  present  comparatively  safe. 
During  certain  times  of  the  year  the 
Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Company  run  a  small 
steamer  from  Bhamo  to  M3ritkyma. 
By  taking  this  steamer,  the  first  defile, 
which  is  perhaps  the  finest  of  the 
three,  can  be  seen.     Myitkyina  itself 

jossesses  no  features  of  special  interest. 

t  will  ultimately  be  connected  with 
Mandalay  by  railway,  and  when  this 
takes  place  its  importance  will  no 
doubt  increase,  as  it  will  then  attract 
caravans  from  China,  who  will  find 
through  Myitkyina  their  readiest 
approach  to  the  markets  of  Burma. 
West  of  Myitkyina  are  the  jade  and 
amber  mines,  but  these  are  not  at 
present  accessible  to  travellers. 

In  order  to  visit  the  Buby  Mines 

it  will  be  necessary  to  break  either 
the  upward  or  the  downward  journey 
between  Mandalay  and  Bhamo  at 
Thabeikkyin.  A  good  road  connects 
Thabeikkyin  with  Mogok  (50  m.),  the 
centre  of  the  Ruby  Mines  district,  and 
the  journey  is  worth  undertaking  if  the 
traveller  is  able  to  make  the  necessary 
arrangements  for  ponies  and  mules. 
The  journey  can  be  performed  by  easy 
stages  as  there  are  Government  Rest 
Houses  (roughly  furnished)  at  every  10 
or  12  m.  along  the  road.  The  road 
passes  through  fine  mountain  scenery, 
and  the  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be 
interested  in  observing  the  primitive 
methods  of  mining  followed  by  the 
Burmese,  as  well  as  the  more  civilised 
but  hitherto  not  too  successful  opera- 
tions of  the  Englisli  Company. 


Having  returned  to  Mandalay,  the 
traveller  should  now  proceed  by  Irra- 
waddy Flotilla  steamer  to  Prome  (3 
days),  stopping  en  routCj  if  practicable, 
at  Nyaungu  for  Pagans  and  at  "Yenang- 
yaung  for  a  visit  to  the  oil  wells.  After 
passing  Sagaing,  the  headquarters  of 
the  central  division,  the  steamer  calls 
at  Myingyan  and  Pakokku,  both  large 
towns  and  headquarters  of  British 
districts.  At  Myingyan  troops  are 
cantoned.  Pakokku  is  the  base  for 
the  Chin  Hills,  and  is  a  thriving  and 
rapidly-growing  city. 

Nyaungu  is  situated  about  120  m. 
below  Mandalay,  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  river,  and  is  interest- 
ing both  as  being  the  principal  place 
for  the  manufacture  of  the  celebrated 
Burmese  lacquer  work,^  and  as  being 
the  nearest  halting-place  to  old  Pagan, 
the  capital  of  Burma  from  the 
9th  to  the  13th  century.  There  is  a 
Government  Rest  House  at  Nyaungu, 
permission  to  occupy  which  should  be 
obtained  from  the  Deputy  Commis- 
sioner of  Myingyan,  and  the  traveller, 
who  wishes  to  make  anything  like  a 
detailed  examination  of  the  extensive 
and  very  interesting  remains  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood,  should  ar- 
range to  remain  at  least  two  days  there. 
A  pretty  full  description  of  tl^e  pagodas 
at  Pagan  will  be  found  m  Yule's 
E^nhassy  to  Ava,  if  the  traveller  should 
be  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  a  copy 
of  that  work.  A  very  brief  account 
(taken  chiefly  from  Yule)  of  some  of 
the  principal  monuments  is  all  that 
can  be  given  here. 

The  Pagan  ruins  extend  over 
a  space  about  8  m.  in  length  along 
the  river,  and  averaging  about  2 
m.  in  breadth.  The  brick  rampart 
and  fragments  of  an  ancient  gate- 
way, showing  almost  obliterated  traces 
of  a  highly  architectural  character, 
are  the  only  remains  which  are  not  of 
a  religious  description.  The  total 
number  of  temples  was  roughly 
estimated  by  Yule  at  from  805  to 
1000.     All  kinds  and  forms  are  to  be 

1  A  full  description  of  the  process  of  manu- 
facture will  be  found  in  chap,  xxvii.  of  TM 
Burman  by  Shway  Yoe. 


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tndu 


found  among  them;  the  bell-shaped 
pyramid  of  brickwork  in  all  its 
varieties ;  the  same  raised  over  a 
square  or  octagonal  cell  containing  an 
image  of  Buddha  ;  the  bluff  knob-like 
dome  of  the  Ceylon  dagobas ;  the 
fantastic  Bopaya,  or  Pumpkin  pagoda, 
and  many  variations  on  these  types. 
But  the  predominant  and  characteristic 
form  is  that  of  the  cruciform,  vaulted 
temple,   certain   specimens    of  which 


portions  on  each  face,  so  that  it 
measures  280  ft.  across  each  way.  It 
is  seven  stories  in  height ;  six  of  these 
are  square  and  flat,  each  diminishing, 
in  extent,  so  as  to  give  the  whole  a 
pyramidal  form  ;  the  seventh,  which  is, 
or  simulates,  the  cell  of  the  temple, 
takes  the  form  of  a  Hindu  or  Jain 
temple,  the  whole  in  this  instanee 
rising  to  the  height  of  183  ft  Inter- 
nally the  building  is  extremely  solid, 


Plan  of  the  Ananda  Temple  (from  Yule).    Scale  100  ft.  to  1  in. 


will  be  described  farther  on.  Three 
at  least  of  the  great  temples,  and  a 
few  of  the  smaller  ones,  have  been  from 
time  to  time  repaired,  and  are  still 
more  or  less  frequented  by  worshippers  ; 
but  by  far  the  greater  number  have 
been  abandoned  to  the  owls  and  bats, 
and  some  have  been  desecrated  into 
cow-houses  by  the  villagers.  The  three 
principal  temples  are  the  Ananda,  the 
Thapinyu,  and  the  Gaudapalin.  The 
Ananda,  as  will  be  seen  from  the 
annexed  plan,  is  a  square  of  nearly  200 
ft.     on    each    side,     with    projecting 


being  intersected  only  by  two  narrow 
concentric  corridors ;  but  in  rear  of 
each  projecting  transept  is  a  niche, 
artificially  lighted  from  above,  in  which 
stands  a  statue  of  Buddha,  more  than  ^ 
30  ft.  in  height.  These  four  great 
statues  represent  the  four  Buddhal 
who  have  appeared  in  the  present 
world  period ;  the  image  to  the  E.  is 
Kankathan,  that  to  the  W.,  Kathaba,. 
that  to  the  N.,  Gaudama,  and  that  to 
the  S.,  Ganugun.  They  are  all  richly 
gilt.  The  Ananda  is  supposed  to  have 
been  built  in  the,  11th  century,  in  thft 

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i«icpn  of  Kyanyittha.  General  Phayre 
derives  its  name  from  the  Sanskrit 
Ananta,  "The  Endless." 

Next  in  importance  is  the  Thapinyn 
(the  Omniscient),  erected  about  the  year 
1100  by  the  grandson  of  Kyanyittha, 
and  third  is  the  Oaudapalin,  built  in 
1160.  These  two  temples  are  of  very 
similar  form,  but  the  Thapinyu  is  con- 
siderably larger  than  the  Gaudapalin. 
The  height  of  the  Thapinyu  is  201  ft., 


covered  with  niches,  be^rin^  seated 
Gaudamas  and  interspersed  with  orna- 
mental panels  and  mouldings. 

Among  the  temples  which  have  fallen 
out  of  repair  may  be  mentioned  the 
Dhamayangyi  and  the  Sinbyoku.  The 
former  resembles  the  Ananda  in  general 
plan  and  design.  The  latter  is  in  its 
details  perhaps  the  most  beautiful  of 
any.  For  a  description  of  these  and  for 
further  details  regarding  the  remains 


Plan  of  Thapinyu  (from  Tale).    Scale  100  ft.  to  1  in. 


that  of  the  Gaudapalin  180  ft.  They 
differ  from  the  Ananda  in  having  each 
only  one  porch  instead  of  four,  and 
consequently  only  one  great  statue  in 
its  cell  instead  of  four  standing  back 
to  back.  A  plan  of  the  Thapinyu  is 
given  above. 

One  other  important  temple  within 
the  city  walls  has  been  kept  in  repair. 
It  is  known  as  the  Bodhif  and  is  be- 
lieved to  have  been  erected  in  1200. 
It  is  different  in  style  from  the  other 
temples.  The  basement  is  a  (]^uad- 
rangular  block  of  no  great  height, 
supporting  a  tall  spire,  strongly  re- 
sembling many  of  the  ancient  Hindu 
temples.  Both  base  and  spire  are 
\l7idia\ 


at  Paean  the  traveller  must  be  referred 
to  Yule.  They  are  full  of  interest  both 
to  the  antiquarian  and  the  architect 
Above  and  around  Nyaungu  are  many 
more  temples  and  some  underground 
caves  formerly  inhabited  by  monks, 
which  well  deserve  inspection.  One 
of  the  principal  temples  above  Nyauneu 
(the  Kyankkn  temple)  has  been  fully 
described  by  the  late  Dr.  Forchhammer 
in  a  monograph  published  by  the 
Burma  Govt.  Press  in  1891.  Pagan 
ceased  to  be  a  capital  in  1284  a.d. 
The  Emperor  of  China  had  sent  a 
vast  army  to  avenge  the  murder  of 
an  ambassador.  The  Burmese  king 
pulled  down  1000  arched  temples,  1000 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC* 


4S4 


BURMA 


Indk 


sraaller  ones,  and  4000  sqnwe  temples, 
to  Btrengthen  the  fortifKsatioDs.  Bat 
a  prophecy  found  nnder  one  of  the 
deeecrated  shriiies  robbed  him  of  his 
courage  and  he  fled  to  the  S.,  and 
ever  since  Pagan  has  remained  in  its 
present  practically  deserted  state. 

The  Irrawaddy  just  below  Pagan 
widens  ont  Uke  a  gigantic  lake  to  over 

2  m.  in  breadth,  and  the  view  of  the 
sacred  city  obtained  from  the  steamer 
is  particularly  fine. 

Continuiug  his  course  down  stream 
past  Salemyo,  the  traveller  will  shortly 
reach  Yenangyanng,  on  the  £.  bank, 
and,  here  again,  if  time  allows,  and  the 
necessary  arrangements  have  been  made, 
a  halt  is  desirable.  The  oil  wells  are 
situated  about  3  m.  from  the  river 
bank,  and  well  deserve  a  visit.  A 
number  of  wells  are  being  successfully 
worked  by  steam  power  on  the  American 
system  by  the  Burma  Oil  Company, 
while,  in  the  neighbourhood,  the  Bur- 
mese continue  to  extract  oil  in  smaller 
quantities  by  the  primitive  methods, 
which  have  been  in  use  among  them 
for  generations.  The  traveller  who  is 
interested  in  the  subject  should  supply 
himself  at  the  Govt  Press  before  leaving 
Rangoon  with  a  copy  of  Dr.  Noetling's 
exhaustive  report  on  the  oil  wells  of 
Yenangyaung. 

The  principal  places  of  call  below 
Yenangyaung  are  Magwe  and  Minbu, 
both  headquarters  of  British  districts  ; 
MinJUay  where  there  is  an  old  Burmese 
fort,  which  was  the  scene  of  a  brief 
fight  in  the  last  Burmese  war,  and 
^Huiyetmyot  a  military  station,  formerly 
of  some  importance  as  the  frontier 
station  of  British  Burma.  At  Thayet- 
myo  and  thence  to  Prome  t^e  river 
scenery  is  good.  At  Prome,  unless  he 
prefers  to  complete  the  joumev  to 
Rangoon  by  river,  which  he  can  do  in 

3  days,  the  traveller  will  leave  his 
steamer,  and  return  to  Rangoon  by 
train  (9  hours). 

FBOHE,  now  a  town  of  about 
30,000  inhabitants,  and  the  head- 
quarters of  the  district  of  that  name,  is 
a  very  ancient  city,  and  is  mentioned 
as  the  capital  of  a  great  kingdom  before 


the  Christian  era.  The  town  extends  I«\ 
from  the  foot  of  the  Prome  hills  to  the 
bauk  of  the  Nawin,  with  a  suburb  oi 
the  otiier  side  of  that  streano,  and  £ 
for  some  distance  up  the  Nawin  vallej. 
On  the  bank  of  the  river,  on  .the  higk 
ground,  opposite  the  centre  of  the  towi^ 
are  the  Grovernment  Offices,  the  Public 
Gardens,  the  Anglican  Church,  and  thi 
Jubilee  Clock  Tower.  The  Strand  Boai 
extends  from  one  end  of  the  town  t« 
the  other,  and  from  it  well  •  laid  •  out 
streets  run  E.,  and  are  intersected  it 
right  angles  by  others.  N.  of  tin 
high  laterite  ground,  on  which  in 
the  Law  Courts,  and  under  the  hi^ 
bauK,  a  sand  -  bank  stretches  up  to 
the  mouth  of  the  Nawin,  under 
water  in  the  rains,  but  covered  with 
brokers'  huts  in  the  dry  weather,  when 
a  fleet  of  merchant  boats  is  moored 
along  it,  of  which  many  are  laden  with 
Ngapi,  or  fish  paste,  the  odour  of 
which  pervades  the  whole  Nawio 
(quarter.  Here,  on  the  high  bank,  a 
little  inland,  and  on  the  inner  side  of 
the  Strand,  are  the  Markets. 

The  Shwesandaw  Pagoda  is  on  a 
hill  i  a  m.  from  the  L  bank  of  the 
Irrawaddy,  and  covers  an  area  of 
11,925  sq.  ft.,  rising  from  a  nearly 
square  platform  to  a  height  of  180 
ft.  It  is  surrounded  by  83  small 
gilded  temples.  These  unite  at  tbar 
bases,  and  form  a  wall  round  the 
pagoda,  leaving  a  narrow  passage 
Between  it  and  them.  There  are  4 
approaches  to  the  platform  on  whid 
the  pagoda  stands.  The  N.  and  W. 
are  covered  in  with  ornamented  roo6, 
supported  on  massive  teak  posts,  some 
partly  gilded  and  partly  painted 
vermilion.  The  platform  on  ^ 
top  of  the  hill  is  paved  with  straw 
slabs,  and  round  its  outer  edge  ai« 
carved  wooden  houses,  facing  inwards, 
interspersed  with  small  pagodas,  in 
which  are  figures  of  Gaudama,  standing 
sitting,  or  fying.  Between  these  and 
the  main  pagoda  are  many  Tagondting 
posts  with  streamers,  and  many  largi 
bells.  The  pagoda  has  2  gigantic  lioBi 
of  the  usual  conventional  form  at  tb« 
N.  entrance.  In  175S  a.d.  this  pagoda 
was  re-gilt  by  Alompra;  in  1841, 
King   Tharrawaddy   had   it   repaired 

Digitized  byLjOOQlC 


ROUTE  2.   RANGOON  TO  MOULMEIN 


436 


aod  re-gilt,  and  sunnounted  with  a  new 
Ti,  or  crown  of  iron,  gilt  and  studded 
irith  jewels  ;  in  1842,  the  carved 
WO&  over  the  N.  and  W.  approaches 
were  put  up  by  the  Governor. 
In  1858  the  pagoda  was  again  put 
in  repair  at  a  cost  of  76,800  rs., 
raised  by  public  subscription,  and 
subsequently  it  was  re-gilt  at  a  cost 
of  26,000  rs.  The  annual  festival, 
when  the  pagoda  is  visited  by 
thousands  of  pious  Buddhists,  is 
held  in  March. 

The  Shwenattaung  Pagoda.— This 
pagoda,  16  m.  S.  of  Prome,  richly 
gilt,  and  glittering  in  the  sun,  stands 
out  conspicuously  on  the  first  hill  of 
a  low  range,  overhanging  the  Shwe- 
nattaun^  plain,  and  has,  in  a  line 
behind  it,  several  other  pagodas,  all 
which  may  be  visited  by  the  traveller, 
if  not  already  tired  with  buildings 
of  the  kind.  The  Shwenattaung  is 
said  to  have  been  built  during  the 
reign  of  the  founder  of  Prome  by  his 
Queen.  It  was  repaired  and  raised 
by  Thihathu,  King  of  Prome,  and 
again  in  the  16th  century  by  Tabin- 
shweti,  King  of  Toungoo,  who  had 
conquered  Prome. 

Prome  is  celebrated  for  its  gold 
lacquer  work,  small  specimens  of 
which  may  be  purchased  for  a  few 
rupees. 

The  mail  train  leaves  Prome  at 
9  o'clock  at  night,  and  reaches 
Rangoon  at  about  6  o'clock  on  the 
following  morning. 


ROUTE  2 
From  Rangoon  to  Moulmein,  with 

POSSIBLE     extension     TO     TavOY 
AND   MeRGUI 

MOULMEIN,  3^  the  second  largest 
nty  of  Burma,  is  one  of  the  pretdest 


spots  in  the  province,  and  deserves 
a  visit.  It  is  reached  in  about  8 
hrs.  from  B^ngoon,  by  the  steamers 
of  the  B.I.S.N.  Co.,  which  saU  three 
times  a  week,  starting  at  about 
7  in  the  morning.  It  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Amherst  district,  and 
of  the  Tenasserim  division.  It  is 
situated  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Salween, 
at  its  junction  with  the  Gyaing  and 
the  Attaran.  Immediately  to  the  W. 
is  Bilugyun,  an  island  107  sq.  m.  in 
extent.  To  the  N.,  on  the  opposite 
bank  of  the  Salween,  is  Martaban, 
once  the  capital  of  a  kingdom,  but 
now  a  moderate-sized  village.  Low 
hills,  forming  the  N.  end  of  the 
Taungenyo  range,  run  N.  and  S. 
through  Moulmein,  dividing  it  into 
2  distinct  portions,  which  touch  each 
other  at  the  N.  base  of  the  hills  on 
the  bank  of  the  Gyaing.  These  are 
crowned  at  intervals  with  pagodas 
in  various  stages  of  preservation, 
from  the  dark  brick  grass  -  covered 
and  tottering  relic  with  its  rusty  and 
falling  Ti,  to  the  white  and  gold 
restored  edifice,  gleaming  in  the  sun- 
light, and  with  monasteries  richly 
ornamented  with  gilding,  colour,  and 
carved  work. 

On  the  W.  are  4  out  of  the  5 
diviEdons  of  the  town,  which  extends 
N.,  between  the  Salween  and  the 
hills  from  Mopun,  with  its  steam 
mills  for  husking  rice,  and  timber 
and  ship  -  building  yards,  to  the 
military  cantonment  on  the  point 
formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Gyaing 
and  the  Salween  opposite  Martaban, 
a  distance  of  6  m.  The  breadth  no- 
where exceeds  1200  yds.  The  vie'w 
from  the  hills  in  the  centre  of  the 
town  is  of  great  beauty,  probably 
unsurpassed  in  all  Burma.  W.  the 
foreground  is  occupied  by  trees  of 
every  shade  of  foliage,  from  the  dark 
olive  of  the  mango  to  the  light 
green  of  the  pagoda  tree,  varied  by 
the  graceful  plumes  of  the  bamboo 
with  buildings  showing  here  and  there, 
and  the  magnificent  sheet  of  water 
beyond,  studded  with  green  islands, 
among  which  stands  ont  conspicuously 
the  little  rocky  Gaungsekwin,  com- 
pletely occupied  by  white  and  glitter- 
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436 


BURMA 


Indu 


ing  pagodas,  and  m  monastery  sheltered 
by  trees,,  and  ih  the  distance  are  the 
forest  •  clad  hills  of  Bilugyun  and 
Martaban.  K  at  the  foot  of  the 
hills  is  a  large  and  regularly  laid  oat 
town,  on  the  edge  of  a  rice  plain, 
from  which,  beyond  the  Attaran,  rise 
isolated,  fantastically  shaped  ridges 
of  limestone,  in  part  bare,  and  else- 
where with  jagged  peaks,  partially 
concealed  by  straggUng  clumps  of 
vegetation,  and  in  the  extreme  distance 
a  faint  blue  outline  of  the  frowning 
Dawna  hills.  To  the  N.  are  the 
Zwekabin  rocks  of  limestone,  13  m. 
long,  while  to  the  S.  rise  the  dark 
Taungwaing  hills,  their  sombre  colour 
relieved  by  a  glistening  white  pa^a 
and  monasteries  on  their  side ;  wind- 
ing through  the  plain  like  silver 
ba^ds  are  the  Gyaing  and  Attaran. 

The  population  of  Moulmein  is 
about  56,000.  It  formerly  rivalled 
Rangoon  in  population  and  trade, 
but  has  now  fallen  far  behind.  In 
1892-93  the  trade  of  the  port  was 
valued  at  rs.  33,000,000.  Moulmein 
is  largely  dependent  on  the  timber 
trade,  and  obtains  its  teak  mainly 
from  Earenni  and  ChiengmaL  The 
forests  have  been  overworked,  and 
the  supply  of  timber  is  falling  ofif. 
Moulmein  is  noted  for  carving  on 
wood,  ivory,  and  cocoa-nut  shell.  The 
show-room  of  the  jail  is  worth  a  visit. 
The  traveller  will  no  doubt  visit  some 
of  the  pagodas  and  monasteries  which 
abound  here  as  elsewhere  in  Burma, 
and  if  he  visits  the  Kyaikthanlan 
Pagoda,  should  notice  the  bi^  bell 
wiui  its  quaint  English  inscnption, 
"This  Bell  is  made  by  Koonalenga, 
the  priest,  and  weight  600  viss.  No  one 
body  design  to  destroy  this  Bell. 
Moulmein,  March  30,  1855.  He  who 
destroyed  to  this  Bell,  they  must  be 
in  the  great  Heell,  and  unable  to 
coming  out"  This  is  probably  the 
only  1^11  in  Burma  bearing  an  English 
inscription.  The  pagoda  is  the  largest 
in  Moulmein,  and  is  152  ft.  high  and 
377  ft.  in  circumference.  It  is  said  to 
have  been  originally  erected  about  1000 
years  ago. 

The  only  other  pagoda  deserving 
special  mention  is  the  Usina,  or  south 


pagoda,  in  the  precincts  of  wliieb  as 
some  remarkably  well  carved  figures  4 
life-size,  representing  the  three  object^ 
the  sight  of  which  determined  Gandinx 
to  become  a  hermit,  namely,  a  decrepi 
old  man  leaning  on  a  staff,  a  mai 
suffering  from  a  loathsome  disease 
and  a  putrid  corpse.  There  are  alai 
figures  of  an  old  man  and  woman,  mi 
one  of  a  recluse  in  yellow  garment^ 
with  features  expressive  of  content- 
ment and  absence  of  worldly  cait 
The  figures  are  startlingly  life-like. 

The  traveller  should  not  leave  Moil* 
mein  without  paying  a  visit  to  som 
at  least  of  the  Caves  in  the  nei^bour- 
hood.     The  principal  caves  are— 

1.  The  Farm  eaves,  about  10  m.  froi 
Moulmein  on  the  Attaran  river. 

2.  The  Domumatha  caves,  18  m.  fnn 
Moulmein  on  the  Gyaing  river. 

3.  The  Pagat  caves  on  the  Salwea 
river,  26  m.  from  Moulmein. 

4.  The  Kogun  caves  on  the  Kogm 
creek  near  Pagat,  28  m.  from  Moul- 
mein. 

5.  T?ie  Bingyi  eaves  on  the  Don 
dami,  51  m.  from  Moulmein. 

All  of  these,  except  the  last  named 
are  within  an  easy  day's  journey  o^ 
Moulmein,  there  and  back  by  steam 
launch ;  but  none  of  them  are  mofi 
visited  except  the  Farm  caves,  of  whid 
a  brief  description,  condensed  from  w 
article  by  Major  Temple  in  the  India* 
Antiquary  for  December  1893,  will  now 
be  given.  For  a  description  of  the  re- 
maining caves,  reference  should  be 
made  to  the  above  article. 

The  best  way  of  visiting  the  Fara 
caves  is  to  take  a  hackney  carriage 
to  the  Nyaungbinzeik  ferry  on  tie 
Attaran  river,  about  4  m.,  then  to 
cross  the  ferry,  and  thence  proceed 
the  remaining  4  m.  by  bullock-cart 
The  caves  are  a  favourite  resort  fct 
picnic  parties,  both  of  the  Europetf 
and  of  the  native  population,  and  tbeie 
is  no  difficulty  about  the  journey.  Tb« 
Burmese  name  is  Kayun.  The  ca^ 
are  situated  in  isolated  hills  of  lii* 
stone,  which  rise  picturesquely  a^^ 
abruptly  out  of  the  surrounding  alluvit 
plain.  They  were  evidently  excavaW 
by  the  sea,  and  are  full  of  stalactiW 
and  stalagmites.     The  principal  caT« 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ltOU*CB  3.       RANaOON  TO  KIAUKPTU  ANl>  AKTAB 


437 


ioittists  of  an  entrance -hall  running 
mrallel  with  the  face  of  the  rock,  a 
ong  hall  running  into  the  rock  at  the 
i,  end,  and  a  subsidiary  entrance  and 
lall  at  the  N.  end.  Along  these  halls 
on  brick  and  plaster  platforms  erected 
or  images  of  Gaudama  and  his  wor- 
hippers.  Near  the  S.  entrance,  and 
n  the  entrance-hall,  are  small  pagodas, 
nd  near  the  N.  entrance  is  a  ti  of  inter- 
sting  construction.  The  whole  of  the 
aves  were  clearly  at  one  time  crammed 
rith  images  of  ail  sizes,  materials,  and 
ges,  as  are  to-day  some  of  the  caves 
urther  from  Moulmein.  Many  of 
hese  have  been  destroyed.  There 
emain,  however,  several  huge  recum- 
bent figures  of  Gaudama,  one  measur- 
ng  45  ft.  in  length,  and  others  not 
auch  less,  sitting  figures  of  various 
izes,  and  small  figures,  mostly  muti- 
itcd.  Some  of  the  stalactites  have 
teen  ornamented,  and  all  over  the 
ides  of  the  cave  and  its  roof  are  signs 
f  former  ornamentation  with  small 
mages  of  plaster,  painted  white  and 
ed,  and  made  of  terra -cotta.  The 
•est  preserved  of  them  are  high  up  on 
he  S.  wall  at  the  deep  end  of  the 
•rincipal  hall,  where  a  number  of 
worshippers  are  represented  kneeling 
pposite  one  of  the  huge  recumbent 
randamas,  and  in  the  roof  near  the 
ntrance. 

From  Moulmein  the  traveller  may, 
f  he  pleases,  extend  his  journey  to 
"avoy  and  Mergui^  to  which  places 
he  B.  I.  S.  N.  Co.  run  a  weekly 
teamer.  Unless,  however,  he  is  pro- 
Beding  to  the  Straits  he  will  prob- 
bly  find  that  this  journey  will  occupy 
lore  time  than  he  can  devote  to  it. 
!avo7,  the  headquarters  of  the  district 
f  that  name,  is  a  town  of  16,000  in- 
abitants,  on  the  Tavoy  river,  about 
0  m.  from  its  mouth.  The  town  lies 
)w,  and  parts  of  it  are  fiooded  at  high 
ide,  and  swampy  during  the  rains, 
t  is  laid  out  in  straight  streets,  and 
be  houses  are,  for  the  most  part,  built 
f  timber  or  bamboo.  To  the  E.  and 
V^.  ranges  of  hills  run  nearly  due  N. 
nd  S.,  and  the  surrounding  land  is 
nder  rice  cultivation.  Tavoy  con- 
uns  court-houses,   a  custom-house, 


and  the  usual  public  ofiices,  besides 
numerous  pagodas  and  monasteries  of 
no  special  interest.  Its  trade  is  of 
little  importance,  and  is  carried  on 
chiefly  with  ports  in  Burma  and  the 
Straits  Settlements. 

The  trip  from  Tavoy  to  Mergui  is  in- 
teresting, inasmuch  aa  it  passes  through 
the  Mergui  archipelago — a  large  ^oup 
of  islands  which,  commencing  in  the  N. 
with  Tavoy  island,  stretches  southwards 
beyond  the  limits  of  British  territory 
in  Burma.  They  have  been  described 
as  '*a  cluster  of  islands  and  islets  with 
bays  and  coves,  headlands  and  high- 
lands, capes  and  promontories,  high 
blufl*s  and  low  shores,  rocks  and  sands, 
fountain  streams  and  cascades,  moun- 
tain, plain,  and  precipice,  unsurpassed 
for  their  wild  fantastic  and  pictures€^ue 
beauty."  They  are  but  sparsely  m- 
habited,  and  are  the  resort  of  a  peculiar 
race,  the  Selungs,  who  rarely  leave 
them  to  visit  the  mainland.  The  prin- 
cipal products  are  edible  birds'  nests 
and  Mckes  de  mer.  The  islands  are 
infested  by  snakes  and  wild  animals. 
Mergui  itself,  the  chief  town  of  the 
district  of  that  name,  stands  on  an 
island  in  the  principal  mouth  of  the 
Tenasserim  river,  which  falls  into  the 
Bay  of  Bengal  about  2  m.  N.  of  the 
town.  It  has  a  population  of  10,000, 
consisting  of  many  races.  It  promises 
to  acquire  additional  importance  from 
the  recent  discovery  of  valuable  pearl 
beds  in  its  immediate  vicinity.  Tin 
mining  is  also  carried  on  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  district  The  traveller 
who  can  spare  the  time  should  inspect 
the  pearl-diving  and  the  mining  opera- 
tions. The  town  itself  contains  little 
of  special  interest 


ROUTE  3 

Rangoon  to  Kyaukpyu  and 
Akyab 

The  traveller  who    desires    to   see 
something  of  the  An-akan  division,  or 


d  by  Google 


4dd 


^UftllA. 


tniid 


who  ifl  proceeding  from  Rangoon  to 
Calcutta,  and  has  a  week  to  spare,  may 
proceed  by  B.I.S.N.  Co/s  steamer 
(weekly)  to  Kyankpyn  and  Akjrab. 

Kyaukpyn  is  the  headquarters  of 
the  district  of  that  name.  It  was 
formerly  a  British  cantonment,  but  the 
troops  have  been  withdrawn,  and  it  is 
now  a  place  of  little  interest  or  import- 
ance. It  is  situated  in  the  lf«  of 
Ramri  island,  and  the  town  lies  olose 
to  the  seashore,  upon  a  sandy  plain, 
bounded  on  the  S.  W.  by  a  low  range 
of  sandstone  hills,  which  breaks  the 
severity  of  the  monsoon.  The  whole 
tract  is  lined  with  mangrove  jund.es, 
and  the  place  is  very  unhealthy.  The 
town  contains  the  usual  public  build- 
ings, but  nothing  of  special  interest. 

Akjrab  is  a  place  of  more  importance, 
and  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Arrakan 
division,  and  the  third  seaport  of 
Burma.  Ori^nally  a  Magh  fishing 
village,  Akyab  dates  its  prosperity  from 
the  time  when  it  was  chosen  as  the 
chief  station  of  the  AiTakan  province 
at  the  close  of  the  first  Burmese  war 
(1826).  It  has  now  a  population  of 
40,000,  and  a  trade  amounting  in  1892- 
93  to  8,000,000  rs.  It  contains  the 
usual  public  buildings  and  several 
large  rice  mills.  A  pleasant  excursion 
may  be  made  to  Hyohaung,  the  ancient 
capital  of  Arrakan,  50  miles  up  the 
Kaladan  river,  where  the  remains  of 
the  old  town  are  still  to  be  seen.  The 
ruins  of  the  ancient  fort  still  exist,  with 
traces  of  the  massive  city  wall  and  the 
platform  on  which  the  old  palace  stood. 

The  antiquarian  will  find  that 
Myohaung  is  full  of  interest,  as  also, 
if  he  has  time  to  visit  it,  the  Mahamnni 
pagoda,  some  48  m.  farther  'S,  For 
a  description  of  these  remains  he  is 
referred  to  the  reports  of  the  late  Dr. 
Forchhammer,  which  were  issued  by 
the  Burma  Govt.  Press  in  1891,  and  can 
no  doubt  be  procured  in  Rangoon. 
The  Andaw  Shitthaung  and  Duk- 
hanthein  pagodas,  with  their  dark 
passages,  images,  and  inscriptions,  and 
the  Pittekatfdk  or  ancient  depository 
of  the  Buddhist  scriptures,  are  amons 
the  most   interesting   to   the    casual 


visitor  of  the  remains  at  Myohaang. 
All  are  ftilly  described  by  FoicE- 
hammer.  A  trip  may  also  be  made  hj 
river  steamer  to  Paletwa,  the  heui- 
quarters  of  the  Arrakan  hill  tncta 
oistriot,  which  is  inhabited  by 
Chaungthas,  Shandus,  Kwemis,  Cbifis 
Mros,  and  other  strange  hill  tribea 


ROUTE  4 
Feom  Rangoon  to  Basseik  ahd 

BACK 

This  trip  can  be  made  with  ease  and 
comfort  in  one  of  the  steamers  of  the 
Irrawaddy  Flotilla  CJompany,  which 
leave  for  Bassein  three  or  four  times  t 
week,  and  may  be  of  interest  to  tiiose 
who  wish  to  see  something  of  the  lower 
reaches  of  the  Irrawaddy,  and  of  the 
mode  of  life  of  the  thriving  people  of 
the  delta.  It  may  be  extended  to 
Hensada  and  other  river  stations, 
according  to  the  time  which  the  traveller 
has  at  his  disposal.  All  necessary 
information  about  times  of  starting, 
places  of  call,  etc.,  will  be  readily 
obtainable  at  the  office  of  the  Irrawadcnr 
Flotilla  (Company  on  the  Strand  Boad, 
Rangoon. 

Bassein  is  a  town  of  about  30,000 
inhabitants  and  the  headquarters  of 
the  Irrawaddy  division.  On  the  left 
bank  of  the  nver  on  a  slight  eminence 
stands  the  Shwemvdaw  pagoda,  nov 
in  the  centre  of  a  fort  constructed  \st 
the  English,  within  the  walls  of  whki! 
are  the  court  houses  and  a  polis 
garden.  To  the  E.  is  the  Myothil 
quarter,  with  two  principal  streets 
running  through  it  E.  ana  W.  aboat 
a  mile  in  length,  terminating  in  i 
plain  covered  with  pagodas,  rest-housei 
monasteries,  and  massive  images  in  il 
stages  of  decay,  where  the  inhabitaiiti 


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dissemble  for  their  religious  festivals. 
JLcross  the  river  is  the  Thinbawgyin 
suburb,  containing  the  rice  mills  and 
store  yards  of  the  principal  merchants. 
There  are  two  fine  markets  and  a  large 
jail  besides  the  usaal  public  buildings. 
The  principal  pagodas  are  the  Shwe- 
Tnokdmv  said  to  have  been  originally 
erected  by  Asoka  a  few  years  after  the 
death  of  Gaudama;  the  TagoAing 
pagoda,  the  Thayawagyaung  pagoda,' 
sina  the  Mahahawdi  pagoda. 


ROUTE  6 


Up  the  Chindwin  to  Kindat 

This  trip  will  take  up  a  good  deal  of 
time,  and  as  it  contains  little  of  special 
interest  it  is  not  likely  to  be  under- 
taken by  the  ordinary  traveller.  It 
may  be  performed  by-  Irrawaddy 
Flotilla  steamer  from  Pakokku,  a  port 
of  call  some  80  m.  below  Mandalay. 
The  river  scenery  is  good  but  not 
specially  remarkable.  Kindat  is  the 
headquarters  of  the  Upper  Chindwin 
district,  but  is  not  otherwise  a  place 
of  any  importance. 


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CEYLON 


The  traveller  who  can  choose  his  own 
season  for  visiting  Ceylon  is  warned 
that  March  and  April  are  the  hottest 
months  in  the  year ;  June  and  August 
the  wettest  (on  the  W.  coast) ;  and 
December  and  Janiuiry  the  most  dis- 
agreeable (on  that  coast)  on  account  of 
the  ** Long-shore  wind." 

The  area  of  the  Island  is  25,000  sq. 
ra.,  and  the  pop.  over  3,000,000,  of 
whom  over  2,000,000  are  Cingalese, 
800,000  Tamils,  and  less  than  6000 
pure-bred  Europeans. 

The  Currency  of  the  Island  is  rupees, 
divided,  not  into  annas  as  in  India,  but 
into  cents.  The  nominal  value  of  1  r. 
is  2s.  The  actual  value  fluctuates  be- 
tween Is.  5d.  and  Is.  Id. 

Rupee.  Annas,  India.  Gents,  Ceylon. 
1       =     16       =       100 
Silver  .4       =       8=         50 
Silver  .     |       =       4       =         25 

History. — The  Portuguese  landed  on 
the  Island  in  1505,  and  soon  built  a 
factory  at  Colombo,  which  in  1518 
they  protected  by  a  fort  They  were 
almost  constantly  at  war  with  the 
natives,  and  were  several  times  foiled 
in  their  endeavours  to  establish  them- 
selves at  Kandy.  The  Dutch  first 
landed  in  Ceylon  in  1602,  at  Bat- 
ticaloa  on  the  £.  coast,  and  entered 
into  friendly  relations  with  the  native 
government.  In  1638  they  com- 
menced active  operations  against  the 
Portuguese,  in  alliance  with  tne  natives. 
The  war  lasted  to  1658,  when  the  Dutch 
remained  masters  of  the  situation.  They 
erected  the  fort  at  Colombo,  which  was 
then  a  very  important  work,  but  has 
now  been  aemolished,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  some  few  batteries  on  the  sea  face. 


The  Dutch  were  expelled  by  the  Eng- 
lish in  1796.  The  Maritime  Provinces 
were  attached  to  the  Madras  Presidency 
for  two  years,  after  which  Ceylon  be- 
came a  (iown  Colony. 

Travelling  in  Ceylon  is,  for  the 
most  part,  comparatively  easy.  The 
roads  are  everywhere  excellent,  and 
the  Rest- Houses  are  far  more  comfort- 
able places  of  abode  than  the  corre- 
sponding institutions  in  India.  In  the 
larger  towns,  such  as  Badulla,  Ratna- 
pura,  Matara,  and  at  some  of  the  sta- 
tions on  the  great  north  road  they  are, 
in  all  but  name,  hotels ;  but  the  traveller 
is  not  allowed  to  remain  in  them  more 
than  two  days.  On  all  the  principal 
roads,  they  are  usually  provided  with 
bed  and  table-linen,  baths,  tea  and 
dinner-services,  etc.  This  is  not,  how- 
ever, the  case  at  those  on  the  less-fre- 
quented roads,  where  the  B.  Hs.  often 
ramish  little  more  than  shelter.  The 
coaches  are  usually  crowded,  and  those 
who  can  afford  to  do  so  are  strongly 
recommended  to  hire  a  special  coach, 
which  can  usually  be  done  at  a  reason- 
able rate  and  witn  little  difficulty. 

'*It  is  impossible  to  exaggerate  the 
natural  beauty  of  Ceylon.  Belted  with 
a  double  girdle  of  golden  sands  and 
waving  paun-groves,  the  interior  is  one 
vast  green  garaen  of  nature,  delicionsly 
disp<^ed  into  plain  and  highland, 
valley  and  peak,  where  almost  every- 
thing grows  known  to  the  tropi(»l 
world,  under  a  sky  glowing  with  an 
equatorial  sun,  yet  temperea  by  the 
cool  sea -winds.  Colombo  itself,  out- 
side the  actual  town,  is  a  perfect  laby- 
rinth of  shady  bowers  and  flowery 
streams  and  lakes.  For  miles  ami 
miles  you  drive  about  under  arbours 

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of  feathery  bamboos,  broad  -  leaved 
bread  -  fruit  trees,  talipot  and  areca 
I>alins,  cocoa-nut  groves,  and  stretches 
of  rice-helds,  cinnamon,  and  sugar-cane, 
amid  which  at  ni^ht  the  fire-flies  dart 
about  in  glittering  clusters.  The 
lowest  hut  is  embosomed  in  palm -fronds 
and  the  bright  crimson  blossoms  of  the 
hibiscus ;  while  wherever  intelligent 
cultivation  aids  the  prolific  force  of 
nature,  there  is  enough  in  the  pro- 
fusion of  nutmegs  and  allspice,  of  the 
india-rubbers  ana  cinchonas,  of  cannas, 
dracsenas,  crotons,  and  other  wonders 
of  the  Cingalese  flora,  to  give  an  endless 
and  delighted  study  to  the  lover  of 
nature  "  (Sir  Edwin  Arnold). 

Travellers  generally  enter  Ceylon  by 
the  PORT  OF  COLOBIBO.  a^  The  flash- 
ing light  is  visible  18  m.  at  sea.  It  is 
situated  at  the  S.  end  of  the  harbour, 
and  is  placed  on  the  top  of  the  Clock 
Totoer,  where  Chatham  Street  and 
Queen  Street  join. 

The  Landiiig- places  and  Custom 
House  lie  at  the  S.  end  of  the  harbour, 
which  receives  the  fuU  protection  of  a 
magnificent  breakwater.  This  structure, 
the  first  stone  of  which  was  laid  by 
H.R.H.  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  1876, 
was  completed  in  1884 :  it  is  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  long,  and  is  formed  of 
concrete  blocks  of  from  16  to  32  tons 
each,  capped  by  a  solid  concrete  mass 
which  rises  to  a  height  of  12  ft.  above 
low -water  level.  It  terminates  in  a 
circular  space  62  ft.  in  diameter,  with 
a  second  and  smaller  lighthouse  in  the 
centre,  showing  a  red  light,  visible 
about  half  the  distance  that  the  flash- 
ing light  can  be  seen.  The  area  pro- 
tected by  the  breakwater  is  500  acres, 
one  half  of  which  has  water  more  than 
25  ft.  deep.  The  shallower  portions 
have  been  much  improved  by  dredging. 
The  charge  for  landing  and  embark- 
ing from  or  to  any  vessel  in  the 
harbour  is  J  r.,  or  25  cents,  for  each 
person  between  6  A.M.  and  6  p.m.  ; 
earlier  or  later  it  is  more. 

Close  to  the  Custom  House  are  the 
Grand  Oriental  Hotel,  the  Queen's 
House,  the  Barracks,  and  the  remains 
of  the  Fort 

The  Grand  Oriental  Hotel  is  close  to 
the  landing-jetty. 


The  traveller  who  intends  to  stop  a 
day  or  two  may  prefer  to  drive  on,  a 
little  more  than  a  mile,  to  the  Galle 
Face  Hotel.  He  will  pass  by  the 
Government  Offices,  looking  out  on  the 
public  gardens  presented  to  the  City  by 
a  late  Governor  (Lord  Stanmore),  and 
proceeding  between  Queen's  House  on 
his  right  (the  Governor's  residence,  a 
large  but  ugly  mass  of  buildings),  and 
the  new  General  Post  Office  on  the  left, 
he  will  after  passing  the  clock  tower 
and  the  Barracks^  consisting  of  several 
blocks,  built  en  ichelonf  at  a  great  cost 
to  the  Colony,  find  himself  on  the  fine 
open  space  called  the  Galle  Face,  inter- 
sected by  the  direct  road  to  Galle. 

Nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  Galle  Face 
Esplanade  is  a  small  fort  recently 
erected,  and  a  little  further  to  the  S. 
is  the  Glvib  House,  a  fine  oval  building 
looking  on  the  sea.  About  the  middle 
of  the  Promenade,  near  the  sea,  is  a  stone 
like  a  milestone,  with  an  inscription 
in  which  Sir  Henry  Ward,  who  made 
it,  recommends  the  walk  to  the  care 
of  his  successors  for  the  use  of  ladies 
and  children. 

The  city  of  Colombo  extends  to  the 
4th  m.  on  the  Galle  road,  and  has  a 
breadth  of  3^  m.  from  the  sea  to  the 
E.  outskirts.  There  are  over  128,000 
inhabitants. 

Drives. — Colombo  and  its  neighbour- 
hood aflbrd  scope  for  a  multitude  of 
charming  and  picturesque  drives.  Two 
especially  may  be  mentioned,  one  of 
which  might  be  taken  in  the  morning 
and  the  other  in  the  evening  of  the 
same  day.  The  first  is  recommended 
to  those  who  have  not  yet  seen  any- 
thing of  the  East,  and  to  whom  the 
native  town  of  Colombo  will  afford  a 
pleasing  introduction  to  the  distin- 
guishing characteristics  of  Oriental  life 
and  scenery  ;  but,  excepting  the  latter 
part  of  it,  which  is  pretty,  there  is 
little  in  this  drive  to  interest  one 
already  familiar  with  India. 

(1)  Commence  at  the  Galle  Face 
Hotel,  and  take  the  road  along  the  sea 
past  the  Barracks,  until  the  statue  of 
Sir  E.  Barnes  is  reached.  He  was  Gover- 
nor from  1820-22,  and  from  1824-81. 
Then  turn  to  the  right  past  the 
Racquet-court  and  an  old  Dutch  belfry, 


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just  beyond  which  are  the  Toum  Hall 
and  Public  Market  *plac€.  Here  two 
streets  diverge — the  one  to  the  left, 
Sea  Street,  miere  dwell  the  dealers  in 
rioe  and  cotton,  and  where  are  two 
Hindu  temples,  quaint  and  picturesque, 
but  of  no  great  size  or  importance  ;  the 
other,  WoTfendahl  Street,  to  the  right, 
conducts  to  Wolfendahl  Church,  a 
massive  cruciform  building  on  high 
ground,  built  by  the  Dutdi  in  1749, 
on  the  site  of  an  old  Portuguese  church 
called  Apia  de  Lupo,  and  commanding 
a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  harbour. 
Here  are  monuments  and  hatchments 
recording  the  decease  of  Dutch  officials. 
Thence  the  drive  may  be  continued  in 
aN.K  direction  to  the  RC.  OcUhedralof 
St,  LudOf  acyoining  which  is  a  college 
for  Roman  Catholic  boys,  and  a  convent 
with  school  and  orphanage  attached. 
Then  N.  and  a  little  W.  the  Anglican 
Cathedral  and  College  ofSL  Thomas  are 
reached.  They  stand  in  a  park,  given 
by  Dr.  Chapman,  the  firat  Bishop. 
About  1  m.  to  the  N.  is  St.  James's 
Uoman  CaXholic  Church ;  and  in  driving 
there  a  fine  house  called  Uplands  is 
seen  to  the  right,  where  is  a  tortoise, 
said  to  be  more  than  200  years  old, 
and  very  huge.  The  drive  through 
the  suburb  of  Hutwal  is  extrem^y 
picturesque.  It  is  chiefly  inhabited 
by  fishers,  who  are  mostly  Roman 
Catholics,  as  the  numerous  large  and 
imposing  R.C.  churches  testify.  On 
reaching  the  river  at  the  end  of  the 
long  street  of  Mutwal,  turn  to  the  right, 
and  crossing  a  tongue  of  land  till  the 
river  is  asam  reached,  follow  its  bank 
to  the  bridge,  by  which  the  ^reat  road 
to  Kandy  crosses  it,  and  which  super- 
sedes a  most  picturesque  bridge  of 
boats  which  was  long  one  of  the  most 
attractive  spots  in  Colombo  to  an  artist. 
This  part  of  the  drive  shows  to  per- 
fection the  way  in  which  the  tiny 
houses  and  small  churches  are  so 
nestled  under  the  shelter  of  the  trees 
as  to  be  altogether  invisible  from  above. 
Turning  to  the  right  at  the  bridtfe, 
follow  the  dusty  and  ever-crowded  *'St. 
Joseph"  or  *' Grand  Pass"  Road  till 
Skinner's  Road  is  reached.  Turn  left 
along  it  under  a  fine  avenue  of  Madras 
thorn,  till  the  railway  station  at  Maran 


dana  is  reached,  and  thence  follow  ths 
side  of  the  firesh-water  lake,  across  whi<^ 
good  views  may  be  obtained,  till  GMle 
Face  is  once  more  reached. 

(2)  The  second  drive  commenoes  by 
crossing  the  bridge  from  Galle  Face, 
almost  immediately  behind  the  hotel, 
to  Slave  Island,  and  then  driving  along 
the  edge  of  a  beautiM  freshwater  lake 
past  the  pretty  residence  of  the  General 
commanoing  the  troops  in  Ceylon,  to 
the  Vietoria  Park.  The  traveller 
should  not  omit  to  notice  a  picturesque 
little  Buddhist  temple  on  the  oth^ 
side  of  the  lake  nearly  opposite  the 
General's  house.  The  Park  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  Cinnamon  OardoiB, 
and  is  well  laid  out  with  ornamental 
grounds,  in  the  midst  of  wliioh  a 
Museum  was  built  in  1877.  It  is 
exclusively  devoted  to  the  exhibition 
of  Ceylon  products,  antiauities,  and 
natural  history,  and  is  on  uiat  account 
all  the  more  interesting  to  a  visitor. 
On  the  basement  are  some  interesting 
stone  fragments,  and  particularly  a 
colossal  lion,  brought  from  PoUonama, 
on  which  the  King  sat  to  administer 
justice,  one  of  the  unique  windows 
from  the  ruins  of  Yapahoo,  and  tiie 
cast  of  a  portrait  colossal  statue  of 
King  Prakrama  Bahu,  A.  d.  ,  11 53.  The 
entrance-haU  is  handsome,  and  to  the 
right  of  it  is  a  library,  to  whidi  the 
public  have  access  from  6.30  to  10 
A.M.,  and  from  3  to  5  p.m.  In  frcmt 
of  the  Museum  is  a  statue  of  the  Rt 
Hon.  Sir  W.  Gregory,  Governor  from 
1871  to  1877. 

Before  leaving  Colombo,  a  visit  may 
be  paid  to  one  of  the  Coffee  Mills. 
And,  on  account  of  the  singularity  of 
the  view  thence  obtained,  no  traveller 
should  omit  to  mount  to  the  summit 
of  the  Orectt  Beserv&ir,  from  which 
Colombo  is  supplied  wiUi  water.  A 
city  of  over  180,000  people  lies  at  the 
spectator's  feet,  but,  except  for  a  few 
towers  and  domes,  it  is  invisible,  the 
whole  being  conceisded  by  the  mass  of 
vegetation  which  overshadows  it. 

Excursions. — One  of  the  pleasantest 
in  the  neighbourhood  of  Colombo 
is  that  to  a  Buddhist  temple  at 
the  village  of  Kelaiii,  2  m.  up  the 
river    of    the     same     name.      Pass 


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tlirough  the  hot  and  dusty  Pettah, 
or  native  town,  for  about  4  m.,  as  far 
as  the  river,  which  is  crossed  by  a 
hideous  iron  bridge,  superseding  a 
highly  picturesque  bridge  of  Boats,  the 
recent  destruction  of  which  must  be  a 
matter  of  regret  to  all  possessing  artistic 
tastes.  After  crossing  the  bridge  the 
road  passes  through  cocoa-nut  groves 
and  among  the  houses  of  the  dense 
population  for  another  2  m.,  when 
the  temple  itself  is  reached.  The 
Mahatoanso  refers  to  it  as  contemporary 
with  Buddha.  The  ori^al  dagoba  was 
built  at  a  very  early  period,  but  the  one 
that  is  now  standing  was  constructed 
between  the  years  1240-67  A.D.,  and 
rebuilt  about  1801  a.d.  It  stands  on 
the  river -bank,  and  is  handsomely, 
though  gaudily,  decorated.  According 
to  the  Colombo  Ouide^  it  stands  on  the 
site  of  a  shrine  erected  by  Prince 
Yatalatissa,  806  B.C.  A  great  festival 
takes  place  here  at  the  full  moon  of 
May,  and  lasts  four  days. 

None  of  the  exclusiveness  which  dis- 
tinguishes Hindu  and  Mohammedan 
shnnes  is  to  be  found  in  the  Buddhist 
temples,  to  every  part  of  which  a 
stranger  is  freely  welcomed  by  the 
yellow-robed  monks.  This  however, 
does  not  apply  to  the  dewalas,  which 
are,  strictly  speaking,  Hindu  shrines 
attached  to  Buddhist  temples.  Though 
strangers  are  free  to  enter  these,  their 
inner  recesses  stand  closed. 

A  favourite  excursion  by  train  is  to 
Mount  Lavinia,  7  m.  from  Colombo 
(see  p.  424). 

Trips  to  Eaduwella  (see  p.  449)  and 
to  Eotta,  where  there  is  a  College  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society,  prettily 
situated,  may  also  be  taken. 


ROUTE  1 

Colombo  to  Kandy 
(By  rail  76  m.) 
The  line  on  leaving  Colombo  passes 
first  through  portions  of  the  Cinnamon 
Gardens,  and  then  crosses  the  river 
Kelani  by  a  very  fine  girder  bridge. 
To  those  who  have  never  before  visited 
the  tropics  this  journey  will  be  full  of 
interest.    They  will  see  for  the  first 


time  vast  stretches  of  paddy  land  of  the 
most  vivid  green,  the  unfamiliar  but 
soon  recognised  forms  of  the  cashew, 
the  bread  fruit,  the  jak,  the  fraugi- 
pani,  and  the  various  forms  of  {lalm — 
cocoa-nut,  areoa,  kitool,  and  above  all 
the  talipot,  a  specimen  of  the  eigantic 
flower  of  which  is  generally  visible  at 
some  point  on  the  journey. 

At  9  m.  nahara  sta.  is  the  quarry 
junction.  It  was  from  hence  that  the 
stone  was  brought  for  the  construction 
of  the  breakwater. 

16  m.  Henaratgoda  sta.  |  m.  from 
this  station  are  the  Government  Tropi- 
cal Gardens,  planted  for  experiments  in 
trees  and  plants  which  could  not  be 
expected  to  thrive  in  the  higher  eleva- 
tion of  Kandy.  Amongst  the  species 
that  may  be  studied  in  them  are  many 
varieties  of  the  tropical  caoutchouc,  or 
rubber-giving  trees,  and  plants  from 
West  Africa,  South  America,  and  Pana- 
ma, gutta-percha  trees  from  the  Malay 
Peninsula,  Trinidad  cacao,  and  Liberian 
coffee.  From  this  place  onward  for 
some  15  m.  the  country  is  covered  with 
cocoa-nut  trees  to  an  extent  not  to  be 
seen  in  many  other  localities. 

34  m.  AmbepuBsa  sta.,  the  line  here 
enters  the  lower  hills,  and  is  considered 
to  pass  through  some  of  the  most  un- 
healthy country  in  the  island.  The 
mortalitv  was  terrible  when  the  original 
cart-road  was  made  from  Colombo  to 
Kandy ;  but  in  constructing  the  railway 
this  was  to  some  degree  avoided  by  tak- 
ing the  labourers  back  to  Colombo 
every  night. 

45  m.  Polgahawela  June,  sta.,  241  ft. 
above  sea-level. 

[From  hence  a  branch  rail-road  runs 
N.  11  m.  to  Kiirunegala(R.H.),  the  chief 
town  of  the  North- Western  Pix)vince. 

Kurunegala  is  situated  at  the  foot 
of  a  remarkable  rock  which  starts  up 
alone  in  the  plain, — an  enormous  black 
boulder,  over  1000  feet  in  height. 
Similar  isolated  rocks  are  not  uncom- 
mon in  different  parts  of  the  Province. 
From  the  top  of  the  **  Rock  of  Kurune- 

fda "  a  noble  view  is  to  be  obtained, 
t  its  foot  is  an  artificial  lake  which  is 
used  for  irrigation  purposes.  From 
Kurunegala  there  are  good  roads  S.W. 
to  Negombo,  and  N.  W.  to  Puttalam 

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COTLON 


(see  Rto.  6).  13  m.  from  Eurunegala 
on  the  latter  road  is  Waxiyapola 
(R.H.)f  10  m.  N.  of  which,  a  few  miles 
off  a  cross-road  to  Anuradhapura,  is  Ya- 
pahoo,  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and 
curious  of  the  remains  of  antiquity  in 
Ceylon.  It  was  at  one  time  the  abode 
of  the  sacred  tooth,  and  the  ruins  of 
the  Malagawaj  standing  at  the  head  of 
a  great  flight  of  steps,  are  quite  uniaue. 
Its  tracened  windows,  one  of  whicn  is 
in  the  Museum  at  Colombo,  are  espe 
cially  curious.  A  few  miles  N.E.  of 
Eurunegala  is  the  Bidi  (or  silver) 
Vihare,  a  very  ancient  Buddhist 
monastei^,  most  picturesquely  situated 
at  a  considerable  elevation. 
The  road  from  Eurunegala  to  Ne- 

fombo,  passing  through  Narammola, 
>ambadeniya,  Giriulla,  and  Welli- 
hinda,  is  very  pleasing  from  its  varying 
character  and  constant  succession  of 
woodlands,  paddy  fields  and  cocoa-nut 
groves.  At  Dambadeniya  is  a  large 
and  f&mous  temple,  close  to  which  is  a 
high  and  apparently  inaccessible  iso- 
lated rock,  on  which,  according  to 
tradition,  prisoners  were  confined. 

10  m.  S.  of  Polgahawela  is  Eegalla 
(R.H.),  a  small  town  in  a  most  lovely 
sftnation,  and  encompassed  by  the 
most  lelightful  scenery.  ] 
,  52  m.  Bambukkana  sta.  Here  the 
ghat  ascent  commences  at  an  elevation 
of  313  ft.,  and  ascends  12  m.  with  a 
gradient  of  1  in  45  to  an  elevation  of 
1698  ft.  The  vegetation  is  here  of  great 
richness  and  beauty. 

65  m.  Eadugannawa  sta.  is  at  the 
top  of  the  pass.  On  the  way  up  three 
telegraph  stations  are  passed,  and  the 
beautiral  scenery  and  increasing  cool- 
ness of  the  air  make  the  journey  most 
enjoyable.  Near  the  top  of  the  incline, 
the  road  constructed  by  Sir  Edward 
Barnes  is  seen  on  the  right,  winding  up 
the  hill.  The  two  roads  reach  the 
summit  of  the  pass  at  the  same  spot, 
and  there  a  column  has  been  erected  to 
the  memory  of  Captain  Dawson,  the 
engineer  of  the  first  road.  Just  over 
the  station  is  the  Hill  of  Belungala  (the 
Watchers'  Rock),  2643  ft.  above  sea- 
level,  from  which,  in  the  troubled  days 
of  old,  a  watch  was  kept  to  report  an 
enemy  advancing  from  the  plains.  I 


71  m.  Peradeniya  junc  sta.  This 
place  is  136  ft.  lower  than  the  top  of 
the  pass.  The  main  line  continues 
S.,  whilst  the  branch  line  to  Eandy 
and  Matale  strikes  N.  At  this  place 
a  loop  of  l^e  Mahawelli  Oanga  river 
nearly  surrounds  the  beautiful  Boyal 
Botanic  Gardens;  which  are  near  the 
railway  station,  and  less  than  4  m.  from 
Eandy  by  road,  through  a  suburb  in 
which  every  house  is  surrounded  by  a 
garden  of  cocoa-nut  palms,  bread-firoit 
trees  and  coffee  bushes,  and  bright 
tropical  shrubs.  Near  the  entrance  to 
the  Botanic  Gardens  is  a  noble  avenue 
of  india-rubber  treea(Ficusel<i8tioa)f  and 
on  entering,  a  sroup  of  palms  is  seen 
unsurpassed  in  beauty  and  grandeur. 
Amongst  the  exotic  species  is  the  won- 
derful Coco  de  mer  of  the  Seychelles.  In 
size  its  fruit  exceeds  that  of  the  ordinary 
cocoa-nut  many  times,  with  the  peculi- 
arity of  a  double  and  sometimes  triple 
formation.  Formerly,  medicinal  virtues 
were  ascribed  to  it,  and  the  Emperor 
Rodolph  II.  offered  4000  florins  for  a 
single  specimen.  The  Gardens  cover 
nearly  150  acres,  and  overlook  the 
noble  river  that  encircles  them  on  three 
sides.  In  them  are  orchids  and  flower- 
ingcreepers,  ipomoeas  and  bignonias,  the 
BavMnia  scandens  and  ra/xnwaa^  which 
resembles  the  chain  cable  of  a  man-of- 
war.  There  is  a  monument  in  the 
grounds  to  Dr.  Gardiner,  and  another 
to  Dr.  Thwaites,  both  able  Directors 
of  the  institution.  No  attempt  is 
here  made  to  describe  these  beautiful 
Gardens,  as  an  admirable  hand-guide 
can  be  bought  at  the  gates  for  25  cents ; 
they  are  one  of  the  most  enjoyable  spots 
in  the  East.  The  fruit  of  the  durian 
and  the  mangosteen  are  to  be  found  in 
perfection  in  these  gardens.  A  tea- 
garden  and  factory  may  be  visited 
opposite  the  railway  station. 

75  m.  KAMBT  sta.a^  The  capital 
of  the  former  kingdom  of  Eandy,  1680 
ft.  above  sea -level,  pop.  22,000. 

History. — ^The  first  mention  of  Eandy 
as  a  oily  is  at  the  beginning  of  the  14th 
century,  when  a  temple  was  built  there 
to  contain  Buddha's  tooth  and  othtf 
relics.  From  possessing  these,  it  be- 
came an  important  seat  of  the  Buddhist 
hierarchy,  and  eventually  the  residence 


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of  branches  of  the  royal  family ;  but 
it  was  not  till  the  dose  of  the  16th 
century  that  it  was  adopted  as  the 
capital  of  the  island,  after  the  destruc- 
tion of  Kotta,  and  the  defeat  of  Raja 
Sin^ha  II.  by  Wimala  Dharma  in  1592. 
Dunng  the  wars  between  the  Portu- 

fuese  and  Dutch,  Eandy  was  so  often 
umed  that  scarcely  any  of  the  ancient 
buildings  except  the  temples  and  the 
royal  residence  were  remaining  when 
the    English  took  it  in  1815.     The 
FcUace,  a  win^  of  which  is  stiU  occupied 
by  the  chief  civil  officer  of  the  Province, 
was  built  by  Wimala  Dharma  about 
1600  A.D.,  and  the  Portuguese  prisoners 
were  employed  in  erecting  it.  This  gave 
a  European  character  to  the  architecture 
of  some  portions,  such  as  the  octagon 
tower  adjoining  the  Malagawa  Temple. 
That   temple,    in   which    the    sacred 
tooth  is  deposited,  well  deserves  a  visit. 
There  are  many  jewels  and  ornaments 
of  interest  in  the  shrine,  the  brazen 
doors  of  which  merit  observation.    The 
octagon  contains  a  fine  oriental  Ubrarv. 
DeBoription. — Kandy  is  picturesquely 
situated  on  the  banks  of  a  miniature 
lake,  overhung  on  all  sides  by  hiUs. 
A  road  called  Lady  Horton's  Walk 
winds  round  one  of  those  hills,  and  on 
the  E.  side,  which  is  almost  precipitous, 
looks  down  on  the  valley  of  Dumbera, 
through  which  the  Mahawelli  Ganga 
rolls  over  a  channel  of  rocks,  "  present- 
ing a  scene  that  in  majestic  beauty  can 
scarcely  be  surpassed.    In  a  park  at  the 
foot  of  this  acclivity  is  the  pavilion  of 
the  Governor,  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
edifices  in  India,  not  less  from  the 
beauty  of  the  architecture  than  firom  its 
judicious  adaptation  to  the  climate" 
(Tennent,  vol.  ii.  p.  203).    Serpents  are 
numerous  here,  especiallv  the  cobra  and 
carawilla.     Tlie  lar^  black  scorpion, 
as  big  as  a  crayfish,  is  also  found  here. 
The  "sacred  tooth,"  was  brourfit  to 
Ceylon  a  short  time  before  Fa  Hian's 
arrival  in  311  a.d.,  in  charge  of  a 
princess  of  Kalinga,  who  concealed  it 
in  the  folds  of  her  hair.     It  was  taken 
by  the  Malabars  about  1315  A.D.,  and 
again  carried  to  India,  but  was  re- 
covered by  Prakrama  Bahu  III.      It 
was  then  hidden,   but   in   1660  was 
discovered  by  the  Portuguese,  taken  to 


Goa  by  Don  Constantine  de  Braganza, 
and  burned  by  the  archbishop  in  the 
presence  of  the  Viceroy  and  his  court. 
Wikrama  Bahu  manufactured  another 
tooth,  which  is  a  piece  of  discoloured 
ivory  2  in.  long  ana  less  than  1  in.  in 
diameter,  resembling  the  tooth  of  a 
crocodile  rather  than  that  of  a  man. 
It  now  reposes  on  a  lotus  flower  of  pure 

fold,  hidden  under  seven  concentric 
ell-shaped  metal  shrines  increasing  in 
richness  as  they  diminish  in  size,  and 
containing  jewels  of  much  beauty." 

An  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  to  three  Buddhist  temples  situ- 
ated near  each  other  at  a  little  distance 
from  Eandy  — Gadaladenya,  Oalan- 
goUa,  and  Lanka  Telika.  Each  is  curi- 
ous in  a  different  way.  One  is  a  modem 
temple,  very  well  kept  up,  and  situ- 
ated most  romantically  among  huge 
boulders  of  rock ;  the  second  is  very 
ancient,  but  in  the  last  stage  of  neglect, 
decay,  and  dilapidation;  the  third, 
Lanka  Telika,  is  remarkable  alike  for  its 
situation  on  the  top  of  a  rock  and  for  the 
character  of  its  architecture,  which  is 
very  unlike  that  of  any  other  temple  in 
Ceylon.  The  best  mode  of  performing 
this  expedition  is  to  drive  5  m.  out  on 
the  road  to  Eadugannawa,  and  thence 
send  the  carriage  back  to  a  point  9  m. 
on  the  road  to  Gampola,  riaing  across 
from  one  of  these  points  to  the  other 
by  the  bridle-path  on  which  the  temples 
are  situated. 

There  are  many  other  pleasant  drives 
and  rides  to  be  taken  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Kandy.  The  extensive  planta- 
tions of  cacao  on  the  banks  of  the 
Mahawelli  Ganga,  a  few  miles  below 
Kandy,  deserve  a  visit. 

A  local  guide  to  Kandy  by  Mr.  S. 
M.  Burrows  of  the  Civil  Service  may 
be  consulted  with  advantage. 


ROUTE  2 

Colombo  to  Nuwara  Eliya, 
Badulla,  and  Battioaloa 

(Rail  to  Nuwara  Eliya,  or  Haputale ;  coiich 
to  Badulla ;  special  carriage  to  Batticaloa 
—total  distance  274  m.) 

This  route  so  fEur  as  Peradomya  junc- 
tion is  the  same  as  Rte.  1.    ^om  that 


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CSTlON 


pMoint  the  stations  are  on  a  constantly 
risinff  leyel  to 

108  m.  Hatton  sta.,  4141  ft.  above 
the  sea. 

[From  Hatton  the  ascent  of  Adam's 
Peak,  the  most  celebrated  though  not 
the  highest  mountain  in  Ceylon,  is 
most  easily  made.  The  traveller  can 
drive  as  far  as  Lascapana  (R.H.) 
where  there  is  a  riding  road  for  8  J  m., 
but  no  ponies  for  hu*e.  Chairs  can  be 
arranged  for.  The  ascent  is  steep, 
and  to  those  easily  made  giddy  not 
altogether  safe,  but  £!nglish  ladies  have 
been  to  the  summit,  and  it  is  annually 
ascended  by  thousands  of  pilgrims  of 
both  sexes  and  all  ages.  It  is  usual  to 
sleep  in  a  hut  on  the  summit  (7420  ft. ), 
in  order  to  see  the  sunrise,  and  the 
wonderful  shadow  cast  by  the  peak, 
which  often  produces  a  singular  optical 
illusion.] 

Hatton  is  also  the  point  from  which 
the  great  tea  districts  of  Diokoya  and 
Dimbnla  may  be  most  conveniently 
visited.  These  valleys,  formerly  cele- 
brated for  their  proauction  of  coffee, 
are  now  entirely  aevoted  to  tea  culti- 
vation. About  the  year  1870  the 
coffee  plantations  were  attacked  by  a 
new  fungus,  Hoemilia  vastatrix,  which 
choked  the  breathing  pores  of  the 
leaves  and  gradually  exhausted  the 
energies  of  the  plant.  It  was  at  first 
little  regarded,  but  in  ten  years'  time 
it  had  well-nigh  destroyed  the  produc- 
tion of  coffee,  and  reduced  the  planting 
community  to  a  state  of  ruin.  The 
revenue  of  the  island  fell  from  over 
17,000,000  rs.  in  1877  to  12,161,570 
in  1882,  and  large  numbers  of  the 
wealthiest  proprietors  lost  their  estates, 
or  remained  on  them  merely  as  man- 
agers for  their  creditors.  With  in- 
domitable energy  the  planting  com- 
munity set  itself  to  work  to  remedy 
the  disaster,  and  by  the  substitution 
of  tea  for  coffee,  they  may  be  said  to 
have  thoroughly  succeeded  in  doing  so, 
though  of  course  not  without  great 
individual  loss  and  suffering.  In  1875 
but  282  lbs.  of  tea  were  exported  from 
Ceylon.  The  export  of  1893  amounted 
to  84,387,656  lbs.,  while  the  revenue 
of  the  colony  now  exceeds  the  amount 
^received  in  1877. 


The  valley  of  MatkeUya,  a  more 
newly-planted  district,  is  separated  by 
a  ridge  fh»m  that  of  Dickoya,  to  whidb 
it  is  paralleL  The  Dimbuia  valley  is 
traversed  by  a  road  from  Nawalapitiya 
to  Nuwara  Eliya,  into  which  a  bnu^ 
road  from  Hatton  leads. 

Beyond  Hatton,  the  line  faUs  again 
slightly  to 

116  m.  Talawakele  sta.,  whence  it 
again  rises  steadily  to 

128  m.  Nanuoyasta.,^  5291  ft.  eleva- 
tion, until  lately  the  terminus  of  the 
line.  It  is  now,  however,  open  to 
Haputale,  in  the  IJva  Province,  26  m., 
and  has  still  more  recently  been  opened 
to  Baadarawella,  13  m.  further  (see 
p.  422).  On  this  prolongation  is  the 
summit-level  6219  It.  above  the  sea. 

From  Nanuoya  to  Nnwara  Eliya  is  4^ 
m.  by  a  good  road  with  an  ascent  of  1000 
ft.    All  sorts  of  conveyances  can  be  had. 

The  village  of  Nuwara  Eliya  :^  is 
6210  ft.  above  the  sea -level.  The 
summer  residence  of  the  Governor,  the 
Club,  and  Hotels  are  to  the  N.  W.  of  the 
lake.  In  the  beautiful  climate  of  this 
station  expeditions  of  all  sorts  may  be 
enjoyed.  Some  ordinary  drives  are  here 
mentioned : — 

Round  the  Moon  Plains,  8  m.  To 
the  top  of  Rcmboda  Pass  and  back,  6 
m.  Round  the  Lake  6  m.  Pidaru 
TalagcUay  the  highest  mountain  in 
Ceylon  (8280  ft.),  may  be  easily  as- 
cended from  Nuwara  Eliya.  There  is 
a  bridle-path  to  the  top,  whence  the 
view  is  extensive,  but  not  specially 
striking.  » 

A  longer  excursion  is  that  to  the 
Horton  Plains,  28  m.  from  Kuwara 
Eliya. 

This  excursion  will  take  at  least  two 
days,  one  to  go  and  one  to  return,  and 
must  be  made  on  horseback.  A  bridle- 
path through  wild  and  beautiful  scen- 
ery terminates  at  a  large  R.H.,  in  tiie 
neighbourhood  of  which  are  tI^emend- 
ous  precipices,  which  descend  to  the 
great  plain  of  the  Kalu  Ganga. 

Burrows*s  Visitors'  Guide  to  Kandy 
and  NvAJoara  Eliya  is  a  useful  hud- 

1  Travellers  are  reoommended  to  have 
warm  wraps  with  them,  as  the  tempeimtnre 
here  is  very  much  lower  than  that  of  the 
plains,  or  even  of  Kandy. 


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book.  Much  of  the  ground  about 
Nuwara  Eliya  is  open  and  moorlike, 
and  is  thickly  dotted  with  bushes  of 
orimson  rhododendron.  The  eucalyptus 
and  the  Australian  wattle  have  been 
largely  planted  about  Nuwara  Eliya, 
and  give  the  landscape  a  peculiar 
character,  which  has  also  a  somewhat 
Italian  air  imparted  to  it  by  the 
numerous  kuna  trees  (CcUophyllum 
tamentosum)  which,  though  not  a 
conifer,  has  a  sreat  general  resemblance 
in  its  habit  of  growth  to  a  stone  jone. 

On  leaving  Nuwara  Eliya,  the  road 
rises  slightly' after  quitting  the  lake, 
and  then  commences  a  continuous  and 
for  the  most  part  very  steep  descent  of 
several  thousand  feet  At  6  m.  from 
Kuwara  Eliya  we  reach  the  Botanic 
Cfardem  at  Hakgalla,  a  visit  to  which 
ought  on  no  account  to  be  omitted  by 
any  one  making  a  stay,  however  short, 
at  Nuwara  Eliya.  The  visitor  is 
equally  repaid  by  the  beauty  of  the 
views  from  the  Gardens,  and  by  the 
beauty  of  the  Qardens  themselves,  in 
which  all  the  flowers  and  plants  of 
temperate  climates  flourish  freely,  com- 
bined with  much  beautiful  natural 
▼egetation.  Behind  the  Gardens  rises 
the  precipitous  wall  of  bare  rock  which 
forms  the  face  of  the  Hakgalla  moun- 
tain, whilst  in  front  the  ground  sinks 
abruptly  to  valleys  and  low  hills  far 
below,  and  backed  in  the  distance  by 
the  mountains  of  Uva.  The  road  con- 
tinues to  descend  very  rapidly  to 

13  m.  Wilson's  Bungalow,  a 
B«H^  at  which  through  travellers 
to  Badulla  and  Colombo,  who  do  not 
stop  at  Nuwara  Eliya,  usually  sleep. 
Another  sharp  descent  brings  us  to 
"Welimadu,  a  small  but  picturesque 
village,  from  which  point  the  road 
begins  again  to  ascend  till  at 

26  m.  Etampitiya,  where  there  is  a 
comfortable  R.H.,  we  are  again  on 
the  same  level  as  Wilson's  Bungalow. 
The  traveller  cannot  fail  to  be  struck 
by  the  extent  of  terrace-cultivation  in 
the  valleys  traversed,  the  steepest  hill- 
sides being  fashioned  into  an  endless 
series  of  narrow  terraces,  carefully  irri- 
^ted,  on  which  abundant  cro];»  of 
paddy  are  grown.  From  Etampitiya 
the  road  again  falls  continuously,  until. 


after  passing  DikwtUa,  where  it  is 
joined  D^  the  road  from  Eatnapura  (see 
Rte.  3),  it  reaches 

37  m.  Badulla  (R.H.),  the  capital  of 
the  Province  of  Uva,  one  of  the  oldest, 
mostcheerful,  and  most  attractive  towns 
in  Ceylon.  It  is  situated  on  a  slight 
eminence,  entirely  surrounded  by  green 
paddy-flelds,  and  in  the  immolate 
vicimty  of  a  fine  river,  while  on  all 
sides  the  background  is  formed  by 
mountains  of  very  beautifrd  outline. 

Beautiful  avenues  of  Iryga  samutm, 
and  other  trees  adorn  the  town,  which, 
besides  the  usual  Government  build- 
ings— Cutcherry,  Government  Agent's 
residence,  etc.  contains  a  handsome 
Market  and  a  fine  Hospital.  There  is 
also  an  exceedingly  pretty  race-course, 
surrounding  a  small  lake.  Of  the 
ancient  city  few  traces  remain.  Not  a 
vestige  is  to  be  seen  of  the  palace  of 
the  Mnes,  and  scarcely  any  indication 
of  any  buildings  of  considerable  anti- 
quity. There  are,  however,  two  lar^e 
and  wealthy  Buddhist  temples,  the 
Maha  Viha/ra  and  the  Mdka  Dewale, 
which,  though  the  present  edifices  are 
of  no  very  great  age,  are  picturesque 
and  worth  a  visit.  They  occupy  ancient 
sites,  and  the  dagoba  at  the  Maha 
Vihara  is  undoubtedly  of  very  early 
origin.  Badulla  is  in  the  centre  of  a 
veiT  flourishing  group  of  tea-estates. 
Badulla  may  now  also  be  reached  from 
Bandarawelia  by  travellers  who  do  not 
care  to  leave  the  train  at  Nanuoya, 
and  this  route  will  no  doubt  be  taken 
by  those  who  do  not  wish  to  visit 
Nuwera  Eliya,  and  desire  to  reach 
Badulla  in  one  day  from  Colombo  or 
Kandy. 

[A  very  interesting  excursion  may  be 
made  hence  to  Alutnuwera,  25  m.  N., 
on  the  Mahawelli  Ganga,  where  there 
is  an  ancient  dagoba  in  the  midst  of 
fine  scenery.  JUutnuwera  may  also 
be  reached  from  Kandy,  and  one  of 
the  views  on  that  route  at  the  head  of 
the  sudden  descent  to  the  great 
eastern  plain  is  among  the  finest  in 
Ceylon.] 

Leaving  Badulla,  the  road,  which 
passes  chiefly  through  fine  tea-estates, 
rises  rapidly  to 

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448 


CEYLON 


50  m.  Passara  (R.H.))  and  still  con- 
tinuing to  ascend,  reaches  at 

65  m.  Limiigala  (R.H.),  beautifully 
situated.  Here  the  rcNul  descends 
again.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty 
of  the  drive  between  this  place  and 

78  m.  Bibile  (B.H.),  a  good  starting- 
point  for  excursions  into  the  wild  and 
beautiful  country  to  the  E.  and  S. 
We  are  now  in  the  Veddah  country, 
and  either  here  or  at  the  next  following 
Rest-Houses, 

88  m.  Ekiriyankambara,  or 

100  m.  Pallegama,  the  traveller 
Is  likely  to  meet  with  some  of  these 
singular  specimens  of  humanity.  They 
are  a  remnant  of  the  Yakkos,  the  abor- 
iginal inhabitants  of  Ceylon,  and  are 
divided  into  two  classes,  the  Book  and 
the  Village  Yeddahs.  The  Rock 
Veddahs  are  absolute  savages,  who 
remain  concealed  in  the  forests,  and 
are  rarely  seen  by  a  European  eve — 
indeed  few  now  exist.  Tne  Village 
Veddahs,  though  often  indulging  their 
migratory  instincts,  live  in  collections 
of  mud  and  bark  huts,  in  the  vicinity 
of  which  they  cany  on  some  rude  cul- 
tivation. Tneir  skill  in  handling  the 
bow  and  arrow,  of  which  they  still 
habitually  make  use,  is  remarkable. 

114  m.  Ma]iaOya(R.H.) 

120  m.  Eiiinbiiruwella(R.H.)  About 
6  miles  beyond  Kumburuwella  is  the 
great  tank  of  Rugam,  restored  by  Sir  H. 
Ward,  and  now  irrigating  a  large  tract 
ofeountry. 

130  m.  EanitiTa  (R.H.) 

136  m.  Chenkaledi  or  Eraoor  (R.H. ) 
We  have  now  entered  a  country  almost 
wholly  inhabited  by  Tamils  and 
'* Moors,'*  as  the  Cingalese  Moham- 
medans are  called.  The  familiar 
dagoba  is  no  longer  seen  in  the 
viUages,  and  its  phuie  is  taken  by  the 
Hindu  pagoda  or  the  mosque.  From 
Rugam  onwards  the  country  is  highly 
cultivated  and  populous.  After  cross- 
ing the  brid^  at  Eraoor,  the  road  turns 
sharply  at  right  angles  S.E.  to 

146  m.  Batticaloa  (R.H. ),  the  capital 
of  the  Eastern  Province.  Batticaloa  is 
situated  on  an  island  in  a  remarkable 
salt-water  lake,  which  communicates 
with  the  sea  nlybyone  long  and  narrow 
channel,  but  which  extends  for  over 


30  m.  in  length  by  from  5  to  2  m.  in 
breadth,  and  is  sepai-ated  from  the  sea 
by  a  broad  sandy  belt  now  rich  with 
cocoa-nut  groves,  and  swarming  with 
Tamil  and  Moorish  villages  from  one 
end  to  the  other.  The  approach  to 
the  town  by  a  causeway  across  the 
lake  is  picturesque.  The  walls  of  tbe 
small  old  Dutch  fort,  now  converted 
into  a  prison,  are  well  preserved 
Batticaloa  is  famous  as  the  abode  d 
that  singular  natural  curiosity  th< 
*  *  singing  fish . "  On  calm  nights,  especi 
ally  about  the  time  of  the  full  moon 
musical  sounds  are  to  be  heard  proceed- 
ing from  the  bottom  of  the  lagoon. 
They  resemble  those  which  are  nro- 
duced  by  rubbing  the  rim  of  a  glass 
vessel  with  a  wet  finger.  The  writer 
has  never  heard  more  than  two  distinct 
musical  notes,  one  much  higher  than 
the  other,  but  credible  witnesses,  soch 
as  Sir  £.  Tennent,  assert  that  they 
have  heuxl  a  multitude  of  sounds, 
''each  clear  and  distinct  in  itself  the 
sweetest  treble  mingling  with  the  low- 
est bass."  The  natives  attribute  the 
production  of  the  sounds  to  the  sheU- 
fish,  Cerithitim  pcUustre.  This  may  be 
doubtful,  but  it  is  unquestionable  that 
they  come  from  the  bottom  of  the 
lagoon,  and  may  be  distinctly  heard 
rising  to  the  surface  on  all  sides  of  a 
boat  floating  on  the  lake.  If  a  pole 
be  inserted  in  the  water,  and  its  upper 
end  applied  to  the  ear,  much  lomst 
and  stronger  sounds  are  heard  than 
without  such  aid. 


ROUTE  3 

Colombo  to  Ratkapura  and 
Badijlla 

(Coach  daily  to  Ratnapura ;  thence  special 
conveyance.) 

No  excursion  could  show  more  of 
the  characteristic  features  of  Cingalese 
scenery  and  Cingalese  life  than  this. 
It  is  one  strongly  recommended  to 
those  having  time  to  perform  it.  The 
return  journey  from  Badulla  should  be 
taken  by  the  line  described  in  Rte.  2, 
and  can  be  performed  in  a  day  and  a 
half.    The  journey  to  badulla  would 


d  by  Google 


KOUTB  3.   COLOMBO  TO  RATNAPURA  AND  BADULLA 


449 


occupy  three  days.  Those  who  have  less 
time  to  spare  are  strongly  reoommended 
to  go  as  far  as  Ratnapura,  returning  to 
Colombo  by  the  alternative  route  men- 
tioned below. 

Leayinff  Colombo  through  the  narrow 
and  crowded  streete  of  the  **Pettah," 
we  follow  either  a  very  pretty  road 
along  the  S.  bank  of  the  Kelani  river, 
or  a  more  direct  but  less  picturesque 
road  across  the  plain,  to 

10  m.  Eaduwella,  a  R.H.  charm- 
ingly situated  on  a  bluff  of  red  rooks 
above  the  river  at  a  point  where  it 
makes  a  sharp  turn.  The  R.H.  ver- 
andah all  but  overhangs  the  river,  and 
commands  a  delightful  view,  enlivened 
by  the  constant  passage  of  leaf-thatehed 
barges  and  sailmg  TOate,  and  by  the 
picturesque  groups  all  day  crossing  the 
river  at  the  ferry  close  by.  A  short 
distance  ofif  is  an  ancient  Buddhist 
temple  of  some  size.  The  road  con- 
tinues near  the  river,  through  a  rapid 
succession  of  villages  and  groves,  to 

21  m.  Hanwella,  a  large  village  with 
a  good  R.H.,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  up  and  down  the  river.  A  few 
m.  S.  of  Hanwella  is  the  tank  of 
Labugama,  which  supplies  Colombo 
with  water.  It  is  picturesquely  situ- 
ated among  wooded  hills,  and  well 
repays  a  visit.  The  road  now  leaves 
the  river  and  passes  over  country  in 
which  tea-cultivation  is  making  much 
progress  to 

80  m.  AviBawella,  another  large 
village  with  an  excellent  R.H.,  which 
is  virtually  an  hotel.  Avisawella  is 
surrounded  by  country  of  verv  great 
natural  beauty.  Its  loveliness  is,  now- 
ever,  rapidly  disappearing  before  the 
constent  extension  of  t^- estates,  of 
which  Avisawella  is  now  one  of  the 
centres.  [A  road  leading  N.  from 
Avisawella  crosses  the  Sitiwaka  and 
Kelani  rivers  by  fine  iron  bridges,  both 
commanding  lovely  views  ;  and  passes, 
by  Ruanwella  (R.H.)  through  a  lovely 
wooded  and  undulating  country  to 
Kegalla  (see  Rte.  1 ).  ]  After  Avisawella, 
the  scenery  assumes  a  bolder  character. 
After  passing 

44  m.  Pussella  (R.H.),  we  cross  the 
Kuriweti  river  near  the  village  of 
Ekneligoda,  in  which  is  situated  the 
[Jwdia] 


walawa    of    Ekneligoda 

•issawe,  a  great  Cingalese  chief  and 
landholder,  and  we  reach 

56  m.  Batnapura  (R.H.),  a  consider- 
able town,  the  capitel  of  the  Province  of 
Sabaragamuwa.  Eatnapura  is  situated 
in  the  midst  of  the  most  exquisite 
scenery,  and  the  views  from  the  summit 
of  the  Fort,  the  Suspension  Bridge,  and 
the  Circular  Road  are  especially  recom- 
mended. A  ride  of  a  few  miles  up  the 
bridle-path  leading  from  the  Suspen- 
sion Bridge  to  Gilimale  will  amply 
repay  the  trouble,  revealing  as  it  does 
the  magnificent  mountain-wall  which 
rises  all  but  perpendicularly  to  the  N. 
to  the  height  of  many  thousand  feet. 
It  is  from  Ratnapura  that  the  finest 
views  of  Adam's  Peak  are  to  be  ob- 
teined.  There  is  a  specially  good 
one  within  a  few  minutes'  walk  of  the 
R.H.  Ratnapura  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  gemming  industry,  and  the 
whole  country  is  dotted  with  pite  from 
which  gems  have  been  removed.  Sap- 
phires, topazes,  and  cat's  eyes  are 
those  most  commonly  found.  The 
modus  operaiidi  is  simple.  A  pit  is 
dug,  and  when  the  iltariy  a  peculiar 
clay  in  which  the  gems  are  usually 
found,  is  reached,  all  that  is  dug  up  is 
carefully  washed  and  sifted,  and  the 
good  stones  set  aside.  Genuine  stones 
are  certein  to  be  found  in  large  quan- 
tities, but  stones  of  any  marketable 
value  are  more  rare,  the  greater  part 
having  only  a  faint  shade  of  colour 
and  being  cusfigured  by  flaws. 

A  mile  or  two  W.  from  Ratnapura  is 
the  Maha  Soman  Dewale^  one  of  the 
richest  Buddhist  temples  in  Ceylon, 
and  possessed  of  considerable  estates. 
Some  interesting  relics  are  preserved 
there,  but  the  building  itself,  though 
picturesque,  has  no  architectural  in- 
terest. In  the  outer  court,  built  into 
the  wall,  stends  one  of  the  very  few 
monuments  of  the  Portuguese  domina- 
tion remaining  in  Ceylon,  — a  slab  repre- 
senting the  rail -length  fiffure  of  a 
Portuguese  knight  in  armour  Killingand 
trampling  upon  a  prostrate  Cingalese. 

[Ascent  of  Adam's  Peak  (28  m.),  see 
also  Rte.  2. 

5  m.  from  Ratnapura  is  Halwala  on 
the  river  Kalu  Oanga» 

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450 


CEYLON 


2  m.  farther  up  the  riyer  is  Qilimale, 
#  a  large  village  (horses  as  a  rule  can- 
not proceed  farther). 

6  m.  Palabaddala,  #  halting-station 
of  pilgrims  to  the  Peak.  Here  the  path 
becomes  very  steep  and  rufi^od. 

8  m.  Heramitipaiia,  ^  nalting-sta- 
tion  at  the  base  of  the  Peak. 

8  m.  farther  is  the  summit  of  the 
mountain  (7420  ft.),  where  is  a  small 
permanent  room  built  for  the  accommo- 
dation of  the  officiating  priest] 

Leaving  Ratnapuraby  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  and  not  forgetting  to  notice 
the  dutiful  views  obtainable  from  it, 
we  pass  through  paddj-fields  fertilised 
by  the  Batu^edara  irrigation  works, 
and  after  a  drive  of  18  m.  reach 

69  m.  Felmadolla  (R.H.),  whence  a 
road  to  the  8.  leads  to  Eackwane,  the 
chief  village  of  a  rising  tea-district 
The  views  on  this  road  are  some  of  the 
most  beautiful  in  Ceylon. 

[From  Rackwane  an  interesting  trip 
may  be  made  southwards  to  Hamban- 
totta  in  the  southern  province.  It  is 
a  riding  road  only,  thoi  jh  practicable 
for  bullock-carts  in  most  places.  As 
far  as  Maduanwela  the  scenery  is  very 
pretty.  At  Maduanwela  is  a  very 
interesting  specimen,  the  only  one  witn 
which  the  writer  is  acauainted,  of  the 
ancient  vxilawes  of  the  Kandyan  chiefs. 
It  consists  of  several  small  courts  built 
on  a  soi-t  of  Pompeiian  plan,  the  small 
rooms  looking  into  the  court  which,  as 
at  Pompeii,  is  in  every  case  furnished 
with  an  impluvium.  There  is  a  small 
private  chapel  (Buddhist),  and  the 
massive  outer  door  made  of  one  huge 
piece  of  wood,  is  marked  by  bullets 
and  other  traces  of  resistance  to  assail- 
ants in  olden  times.  Within  is  dis- 
played the  silver  staff  shaped  like  a 
crosier,  the  badge  of  office  of  one  of 
the  ancestors  of  the  family,  who  was 
chief  Adigar  or  Prime  Minister  of  the 
King  of  Kandy.  Afterwards  the  track 
leads  chiefly  through  thick  forest  and 
jungle,  attractive  to  the  sportsman  as 
being  a  great  resort  for  elephants  and 
deer.  After  passing  the  irrigation 
works  on  the  WcUawe  River,  the  main 
road  between  Galle  and  Hambantotta 
is  joined  at  Ambalantotta  (see  p.  453)]. 

The  woods  about  Pelmadulla,  at  the 


proper  season,  are  bright  with  liie 
splendid  blooms  of  the  Dendrcbium 
Maccarihii, 

85  m.  Balangoda  (R.H.)  Nothing 
can  exceed  the  beauty  and  yarietj  of 
the  scenery  along  the  whole  road  mm 
Ratnapura  to  this  place.  It  is  entirely 
free  from  that  monotony  which  some- 
times renders  the  most  luxuriant  tropi- 
cal scenery  oppressive  and  wearisome. 

97  m.  Belihuloya.  There  is  a  good 
R.H.  here,  romantically  situated 
on  the  edge  of  a  rushing  mountain 
stream.  From  this  spot  an  ascent  can 
be  made  to  the  Horton  Plains  (see  Rte. 
2).  We  now  get  into  cotfee  and  tea- 
estates,  whence  the  whole  of  the  wood 
has  been  cleared,  and  the  bare  hillsides 
now  lack  any  trace  of  their  original 
beauty.  But  the  crops  are  fine,  and 
cotfee  has  not  in  this  part  of  Ceylon 
been  so  wholly  exterminated  as  else- 
where by  leaf  disease.  Ever  since  leav- 
ing Pelmadulla  the  road,  though  varied 
by  occasional  descents,  has  been  rising, 
and  by  the  time  we  have  reached 

105  m.  Haldamulla  (R.H. ),  we  are  at 
a  very  considerable  elevation,  from  which 
a  truly  magnificent  view  is  obtained  over 
all  that  part  of  the  island  lying  between 
Haldamulla  and  the  sea  to  the  S.  With 
few  exceptions,  the  eye  seems  to  range 
OVOT  an  unbroken  extent  of  forest ;  the 
rivers,  villages,  and  tracts  of  cultivation 
being  for  the  most  part  concealed  bj 
the  &ees  surrounding  them. 

[From  Haldamulla  the  very  fine 
waterfall,  over  400  feet  in  height,  near 
Lemastotta,  may  be  visited.] 

A  very  steep  ascent  of  about  8  m. 
brings  us  to  the  top  of  the  pass  at 
Haputale  (R.H.),  at  an  elevation  of 
between  4000  and  6000  ft  The  view 
hence  is  even  grander  than  that  from 
Haldamulla,  but  from  partaking  of  a 
greater  extent  of  the  nature  of  a  bird's- 
eye  view  it  is  less  picturesque.  The 
road  leading  northwards  now  begins 
again  to  descend,  and  soon  reaches  the 
small  village  of 

120  m.  Bandarawella  (R.H.),  which 
is  said  to  enjo}r  the  best  and  most 
equable  climate  in  Ceylon.  It  is  cer- 
tainly a  very  delicious  one,  and  no 
doubt  one  day,  now  that  the  railway  is 
extended  to  this  point,  it  will  become 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  4.    COLOMBO  TO  RATNAPURA.      ROUTE  6.    TO  TI88AMAHARAMA      461 


the  site  of  numerous  villas  and  summer 
residences.  A  good  hotel  has  been 
lately  opened  here.  The  road  con- 
tinues to  descend  for  14  miles  to 

134  m.  Dikwella,  from  which  point 
the  road  to  Badulla  is  the  same  as  in 
Rte.  2. 


ROUTE  4 
Colombo  to  Ratnapura,  via  Pana- 

DURA  AND  NaMBAPANE 
(Rail  and  road.) 

This  is  an  alternative  route  to  Ratna- 
pura, which,  though  somewhat  longer, 
is  performed  in  the  same  number  of 
hours  as  the  previous  route,  owing  to  a 
part  of  it  being  by  railway.  It  passes 
through  very  pretty  country,  and  those 
who  go  no  farther  than  Ratnapura  are 
strongly  recommended  to  go  by  one 
and  return  by  the  other  of  these  routes. 

The  traveller  proceeds  as  far  as  Fana- 
dura  by  the  Southern  Railway  from 
Colombo  (see  Rte.  6),  and  thence  pro- 
ceeds by  coach  or  private  conveyance. 

A  few  miles  after  quitting  Panadura 
he  crosses  the  Bolgoda  Lake  by  a  bridge, 
and  at 

10  m.  reaches  Horana.  The  R.H. 
here  is  built  among  the  remains  of  an 
ancient  Buddhist  monastery,  ai  i  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  the  large 
and  nandsome  Buddhist  temple.  It 
contains  a  bronze  candlestick  worthy 
of  notice.  It  is  about  8  ft.  high  and 
of  remarkably  fine  workmanship. 

28  m.  Nambapane  (RH.)  prettily 
situated.  The  road  here  approaches 
the  Kalu  Ganga  river,  along  the  bank 
of  which  it  passes  as  far  as 

32  m.  Eiri  Ela,  where  the  Kuru- 
witti  river  is  crossed.  The  road  now 
keeps  at  a  ^eater  distance  from  the 
river,  though  it  follows  its  general  course 
till  it  reaches 

42  m.  Ratnapura  (see  p.  449).  Shortly 
before  arriving  at  Ratnapura  the  Maha 
Saman  Dewale  is  passed  (see  p.  449). 
The  whole  road  is  extremely  bieautiful 
and  cannot  fail,  if  the  day  be  fine,  to  give 
pleasure  to  those  passing  along  it.    Fine 


views  of  Adam's  Peak  and  the  other 
principal  points  of  the  Central  Moun- 
tains are  to  be  obtained  on  this  route. 


ROUTE  5 

Colombo  to  Galle,  Matara,  Ham- 
bantoita,  and  tissamahakama 

(Rail  to  Ifatara ;  tlience  special  con- 
veyance.   Beyond  Kirinde  ride.) 

The  journey  is  worth  making,  at  all 
events  so  far  as  Galle  or  Matara,  for  the 
sake  of  the  coast  scenery.  As  far  as 
Matara  it  can  be  performed  by  rail,  but 
it  is  unnecessary  to  say  that  much  is 
lost  by  adopting  this  mode  of  travel- 
ling. The  first  six  stations — namely, 
the  Pettah,  the  Fort,  Slave  Island  (the 
drive  from  Galle  Face  Hotel  to  this 
station  is  about  J  m.),  Kollapitiya, 
Bambalapitya,  and  Wellawatta,  are  all 
in  the  suDurbs  of  Colombo. 

At  7  m.  Mount  Lavinia  sta.  is  the 
Grand  Hotel,  which  was  built  by  Sir 
E.  Barnes,  when  Governor,  as  his 
Marine  Villa.  It  stands  on  a  rocky 
eminence  close  to  the  station.  It  is  a 
very  favourite  place  to  stay  at,  and  has 
first-rate  accommodation. 

17^  m.  Moratuwa  sta.  is  a  very 
flourishing  place.  There  is  a  good 
Anglican  church  here,  built  by  the  late 
M.  C.  de  Soysa. 

21  m.  Panadura  (R.H.)  good,  a 
flourishing  village  prettily  situated  on  a 
narrow  inlet  of  tne  sea.  There  is  a 
handsome  church  in  a  style  of  pointed 
architecture  well  suited  to  the  climate 
(see  Rte.  4). 

26  m.  Ealutara  (R.H.)  excellent,  is 
approached  by  a  fine  iron  bridge  over  the 
Kalu  Ganga.  It  is  over  1200  ft.  long, 
being  composed  of  twelve  spans  of  100 
ft.  each.  Kalutara  is  a  large  place, 
with  a  great  air  of  cheerfulness  and 
comfort.  The  R.H.  is  an  excellent  one 
and  a  good  starting-point  for  the  excur- 
sions which  may  be  made  over  excellent 
roads  into  the  very  pretty  country  to 
the  east  of  the  town.  There  is  an  in- 
teresting Buddhist  temple  on  the  north 
side  of  the  river. 


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CSYLON 


41  m.  BentoUasta.  (R.H.)  very  good, 
was  till  lately  the  railway  terminus,  and 
from  thence  the  journey  to  Galle  had  to 
be  made  hy  road.  The  driye  is  charming, 
always  near  and  generally  within  si^ht 
of  the  sea,  and  passing  under  an  unin- 
terrupted grove  of  oocoa-nut  and  other 
treses.  The  district  is  eictremeljr  popu- 
lous, and  the  traveller  is  rarely,  if^ever, 
out  of  sight  of  a  house  or  two,  while 
villages  of  greater  or  less  size  are  of 
constant  occurrence. 

54  m.  Ambalangoda  sta.  is  a  large 
and  rapidly  increasinff  village.  The 
R.H.  here  is  close  to  the  sea,  and  has  a 
good  bathing-place  among  the  rocks 
below  it. 

61m.Hikkaduwa8ta.(R.H.)  There 
is  a  fine  Buddhist  temple  here  in  a 
somewhat  unusual  position,  approached 
by  a  lon^,  narrow,  and  steep  flight  of 
stone  stairs. 

74  m.  GALLB  sta.  #  was  the  principal 
port  of  call  for  vessels  between  Aden  and 
the  fair  East,  before  the  completion  of  the 
breakwater  at  Colombo.  The  harbour 
at  Galle  is  very  small,  and  not  very  safe 
in  rough  weatner.  The  entrance  is  so 
narrow  as  to  be  hardly  visible  until 
very  near.  The  lighthouse  is  about 
60  ft.  high.  To  the  £.  there  is  a  hill 
2170  fL  high  called  the  Haycock,  and 
in  the  distance  to  the  E.N.E.  Adam's 
Peak,  7000  ft  high,  is  often  seen.  The 
landine-place  at  Galle  is  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  harbour.  The  deep  water  comes 
close  into  the  shore.  All  Saints' 
Church  is  about  }  m.  from  the  landing- 
place.  It  is  a  handsome  stone  building 
of  pointed  architecture,  and  can  seat 
500  persons.  The  ramparts  of  the  old 
tort  form  a  charmingpromenade  towards 
the  sea.  The  population  of  the  town 
according  to  the  last  census  is  38,500. 

The  place  is  hardly  mentioned  in  the 
native  chronicles  before  1267.  Ibn 
Batuta,  in  the  middle  of  the  14th  cen- 
tury, calls  it  a  small  town.  It  was  not 
till  the  Portuguese  occupation  that  it 
rose  to  importance.  When  the  Dutch 
succeeded  the  Portuguese,  they  greatly 
strengthened  the  fortifications,  which 
had  been  vigorously  defended  against 
their  admiral,  Kosten.  In  the  marriage 
treaty  of  the  Infanta  of  Portugal  with 


Charles  II.  of  England,  it  waa  agreed 
that  if  the  Portuguese  recovered  Ceylcai 
they  were  to  hand  over  Galle  to  the 
English,  but  they  never  did  recover  it 
llie  name  of  Galle  is  from  the  Cingal- 
ese, gcUla,  a  rock ;  but  the  Porta- 
guese  and  Dutch  settlers  derived  it 
from  the  Latin,  gaUuSy  a  cock,  and 
carved  an  image  of  a  cock  on  the  front 
of  the  old  Government  House,  which 
dated  from  1687.  The  environs  of 
Galle  are  charming,  and  a  nnmber  of 
pleasant  and  interesting  excursions 
may  be  made  among  them.  The 
scenery  is  always  delightful,  and  there 
are  many  old  and  curious  Buddhist 
monasteries  to  be  explored.  Buddhism 
is  here  seen  in  its  best  aspect.  The 
monks  are  far  more  austere  and  more 
intelligent  than  in  the  Eandyian 
provinces,  and  the  religion  seems  to 
exercise  a  greater  influence  over  the 
lives  of  the  people. 

91  m.  Wellgama  sta.  (R.H.),  a  popu- 
lous and  thriving  village,  beautifoUy 
situated  on  the  lovely  little  bay  of  the 
same  name.  Half  a  mile  before  enter- 
ing the  village  on  the  rt.  -hand  side  of 
the  high  road  from  Galle  is  a  remuk- 
able  rock-cut  colossal  statue  of  a  Cingal- 
ese king  in  perfect  preservation.  The 
statue  is  popularly  styled  that  of  the 
"  Leper  King,"  but  the  legends  attached 
to  it  are  objure  and  contradictory. 

The  road  continues  along  the  sea- 
shore, through  an  almost  uninterrupted 
jffove  of  cocoa-nut  trees  which  07e^ 
shadow  a  constant  succession  of  pictur- 
esque fishing- villages.  The  whole  dis- 
trict is  densely  populated,  and  the  diire 
one  of  the  most  cnarming  character. 

101  m.  Hatara,  sta.  ^  the  birthplace 
of  Sir  Henry  Lawrence,  1806,  a  large  and 
flourishing  town  of  about  9000  in- 
habitants. The  Nilawa  Gangs  is  here 
crossed  by  a  fine  bridge.  Matara  itself 
is  a  particularly  pretty  and  pleasing 
town,  and  is  the  residence  of  many  of 
the  oldest  and  richest  Cingalese  lowland 
families.  In  the  fort  there  is  a  B.H. 
and  a  handsome  clock  tower. 

Matara  is  the  railway  terminus.  The 
traveller  proceeds  by  carriage  to 

104  m.  Dondra,  a  fishing  •  village 
situated  on  the  southernmost  point  of 


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ROUTE  6.      OOLOMBO  TO  TRINCOICALBB 


453 


Ceylon.  There  was  here  a  stately 
temple,  destroyed  by  the  Portuguese, 
of  which  few  fra^ents  now  remain. 
There  is,  however,  m  the  modem  vihara 
a  fine  gateway  elaborately  sculptured, 
and  about  half  a  mile  to  the  north  is  a 
stone  cell  in  perfect  preservation.  On 
the  head  itself,  about  a  mile  to  the 
south  of  the  road,  is  a  magnificent 
lighthouse,  erected  at  great  cost  in  1889. 

The  villages,  though  still  frequent, 
now  become  fewer  in  number. 

114  m.  DikweUa  (R.H. )  good 

125  m.  Tangalla,  a  pretty  little 
village  with  a  remarkably  good  R.H. 
close  to  the  sea. 

North  of  Tangalla  are  the  extensive 
irrigation  works  of  the  Eirima  valley, 
and  the  large  tank  of  Udukiriwella  ;  a 
few  miles  to  the  south  of  which  is  situ- 
ated one  of  the  oldest  and  most  re- 
markable Buddhist  monasteries  in  Cey- 
lon— Mukirigala,  an  isolated  rock  rising 
abruptly  from  the  plain,  and  honey- 
combed with  caves  and  temples. 

1 30  m.  Banne  (R.  H. )  poor.  About  a 
mile  before  reaching  it  we  see  on  the 
south  a  picturesque  Buddhist  temnle 
on  the  summit  of  a  high  wooded  rock. 

The  country  now  becomes  bleaker  and 
barer  and  the  population  far  more  sparse. 

140  m.  Ambalantotta  (R.H.)  fair, 
a  small  village  on  the  banks  of  the 
Walawe  river,  a  noble  stream  here 
shrouded  in  dense  forest,  and  crossed  by 
a  long  and  picturesque  wooden  bridge. 

Ten  miles  north  of  Ambalantotta  are 
the  head  works  of  the  Walawe  irrigation 
scheme.  A  massive  stone  dam,  recently 
constructed  by  the  Ceylon  Government, 
diverts  part  of  the  stream  into  a  system 
of  canals  and  channels  which  convey 
water  for  agricultural  purposes  for  many 
miles  on  tne  west  bank  of  the  river. 
The  road  now  passes  through  a  desolate 
country  to 

149  m.  Hambantotta  (R.H.),  the  chief 
place  of  an  Assistant  Agency,  a  large 
town  on  a  small  bad  harbour.  Here  are 
the  headquarters  of  the  district,  a  large 
gaol,  the  Assistant  Agent's  and  District 
Judge's  residences,  the  Cutcherry, 
Court-house,  etc.  Here  too  is  one  of  the 
two  chief  salt  manufactories  in  Ceylon. 
A   great  part  of  the  population  are 


Malays.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of 
the  town  are  sandhills,  which  long 
threatened  to  overwhelm  the  town,  ana 
have  in  fact  buried  several  streets,  the 
old  post  office,  and  some  other  buildings. 
Their  onward  progress  is  now  checked 
by  the  growth  of  a  peculiar  grass,  and 
by  plantations  of  the  palmyra  palm. 

About  20  m.  N.K  of  Hambantotta 
is  Tissamaharama,  the  oldest  of  the 
abandoned  royal  cities  of  Ceylon. 
Except  as  a  place  of  pilgrimage,  the  site 
had  been  wholly  aoaudoneia  till  the 
restoration  of  the  tank  by  the  Ceylon 
Government.  From  this  tank  more 
than  three  thousand  acres  are  now  culti- 
vated in  paddy,  and  both  population 
and  the  area  under  cultivation  are 
annually  increasing.  The  ruins  are 
of  great  antiquity  and  interest.  One 
of  the  oldest  and  largest  of  the  dagobas, 
over  150  ft.  high,  which  was  in  a  very 
ruinous  condition,  has  been  entirely 
restored  by  the  unassisted  labour  of  the 
Buddhist  population.  There  are  several 
other  very  large  dagobas,  mostly  in 
ruins,  and  some  smaller  ones  in  fair  con- 
dition. The  remains  of  large  buildings 
are  numerous,  and  the  ruins  of  what  is 
styled  the  King's  palace,  but  is  more 
probably  the  lower  story  of  a  many- 
storied  monastenr  like  the  Brazen 
Palace  at  Anuradhapura,  are  specially 
worthy  of  notice.  They  consist  of  rows 
of  huge  monolithic  columns,  much  larger 
than  any  at  Anuradhapura  or  PoUona- 
rua.  Ruins  are  everywhere  scattered 
through  the  dense  forest,  and  excava- 
tions here  would  probably  be  better  re- 
paid than  at  any  other  spot  in  Ceylon 

There  are  two  ways  of  reaching  Tis- 
samaharama from  Hambantotta — 

(1)  The  easiest  route  is  that  by  the 
high  road  to  Badulla.  On  leaving 
Hambantotta,  the  great  lewayaa,  or 
natural  salt-pans,  whencegreat  amounts 
of  salt,  a  Oovemment  monopoly,  are 
annually  taken,  are  passed.  When  the 
salt  has  formed  in  them  they  present 
the  appearance  of  frozen  lakes  covered 
with  snow  of  dazzling  whiteness. 

15  m.  WirawUa  (R.H.)  The  high 
road  is  here  left,  and  about  four  miles  of 
bad  country  road  conducts  the  traveller 
to  the  Government  bungalow  above  the 
tank,  which  does  daij  as  a  Rest-House. 

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CEYLON 


(2)  A  more  interesting  route  is  along 
the  coast  21  m.  to  Kirinde  (R.H.)}  a 
small  port  of  picturesque  appearance. 
There  is  a  road  thence  to  Tissamaha- 
rama,  about  8  m.  in  length,  which 
passes  many  remains  of  antiquity. 

8  m.  beyond  Kirinde,  along  the  coast, 
is  Palutupane  (R.H.))  an  excellent 
centre  for  shooting  excursions,  as  ele- 

Shants,  wild  buffaloes,  bears,  leopards, 
eer,  and  wild  peacocks  aboand  in  the 
wild  and  unpeopled  forests  and  plains 
around  it.  There  are  also  antiquarian 
remains  of  considerable  interest  scat- 
tered throuj(h  the  jungle. 

From  Palutupane  tnere  is  a  track, 
good  for  horses,  and  generally  passable 
for  a  rough  bullock -cart,  to  Batticaloa 
(130  m. )  (see  p.  420).  The  forest  scenery 
on  the  Vala  river  is  very  beautiful,  and 
the  whole  route  presents  gi'eat  attrac- 
tions to  the  sportsman. 


ROUTE  6 
Colombo  to  Trincomalee  by  Neoom- 

BO,     PUTTALAM,     AND    AnURADUA- 
PURA. 

(Coach  to  Chilaw ;  thence  by  special  con- 
veyance.) 

A  steamboat  goes  daily,  or  almost 
daily,  from  Colombo  to  Negombo,  and 
from  Negombo  to  Colombo,  by  the 
canal,  but  it  is  usually  both  crowded 
and  uncomfortable,  and  very  slow. 


The  coach-road  leaves  Colombo  by 
the  Bridge  of  Boats  (see  p.  414),  ana 
turning  to  the  left,  proceeds  by 

13  m.  Jaela(R.H.)to 

23  m.  Negombo  (R.H.)  excellent,  a 
large  and  thriving  town,  picturesquely 
and  singularly  situated  among  lagoons 
and  canals, — a  true  Dutch  settlement. 
There  is  a  picturesque  Dutch  gateway, 
which  "improvers  '  have,  happily,  as 
yet  failed  to  remove,  and  a  banyan  tree 
of  magnificent  dimensions.  The  whole 
district  between  Colombo  and  Negombo 
is  densely  inhabited.  The  innumer- 
able villages  are    scattered    through 


cocoa-nut  woods,  cinnamon  gardens, 
and  groves  of  jak  fruit.  The  artist 
and  the  photographer  can  find  at  eveiy 
comer  of  the  countless  roads  and  lanes 
an  inexhaustible  variety  of  vignettei 
of  striking  beauty.  Leaving  Negombo, 
the  road  crosses  the  Maha  Oya  by  i 
fine  bridge,  about  400  ft.  in  length, 
and  proceeds  through  luxuriant  cocoa- 
nut  groves  and  tobacco  plantations  to 

36  m.  Haravila  (R.H.)  good,  a  yil 
lage  rapidly  increasing  in  size  and  im- 
portance. Near  it  is  an  enormous  and 
very  costly  Roman  Catholic  Church. 
One  of  the  most  striking  features  on 
this  route  is  the  number  and  size  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  churches,  erected  for 
the  most  part  by  the  people  of  the 
fishing-villages  along  the  coast,  who 
almost  all  profess  that  religion. 

41  m.  Tinnipitiyawewa  tank,  one  of 
the  most  successful  irrigation  resttu^- 
tions  of  the  Ceylon  Government,  is 
passed  (rt.) 

48  m.  Chilaw  (R.H.)  good,  another 
large  town,  seat  of  an  Assistant  Govern- 
ment Agency  and  of  the  District  Court 
Here  again  is  another  huge  Roman 
Catholic  Church.  A  lar^e  Hindu  temple 
at  Muniseram,  in  the  neighbourhood,  is 
worth  a  visit.  There  is  a  road  from 
Chilaw  to  Eurunegala  passing  Dun- 
degamma,  and  where  there  is  a  pictur- 
esque temple.  4  m.  beyond  Chilaw 
the  great  river  Dedaru  Oya  is  passed 
by  an  iron  britlge  lately  erected.  A 
bad  road,  through  a  sandy  and  un- 
interesting country,  which,  however, 
is  being  rapidly  covered  with  thriving 
cocoa-nut  plantations,  leads  to 

59  m.  Battol  Oya,  another  lairge 
river,  crossed  by  a  ferry,  and  then  con- 
tinues its  way  through  country  of  a 
similar  character  to 

80  m.  Puttolam  (R.H. )  poor,  a  con- 
siderable place,  the  headquarters  of  an 
Assistant  Government  Agent.  What 
gives  Puttalam  its  importance  is  the 
existence  of  the  largest  salt-pans  in 
Ceylon.  The  whole  island  is  supplied 
with  salt  from  this  place  or  Hamoan- 
totta.  The  process  of  manufacture, 
and  the  salt-pans,  are  well  worth  seeing, 
if  the  visit  to  Puttalam  is  made  at  the 
right  season.  Salt  is  a  Government 
monopoly.     It  is  manufactured  here, 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  7.       KANDY  TO  JAFFNA 


455 


and  at  llambantotta,  and  thence  re- 
tailed throughout  the  island. 

A  canal  connects  Pnttalam  with 
Negorabo,  but  except  between  Chilaw 
ana  Negombo  it  is  little  used.  It  is, 
however,  kept  up  for  the  transport  of 
salt. 

The  road  after  leaving  Puttalam 
strikes  inland,  and  proceeds  through  a 
sandy  and  thinly-peopled  country  to 

103  m.  Eala  Oya  (R.H. )  The  Kala 
Oya  river  is  here  crossed  by  a  bridge 
56  feet  above  the  ordinary  level  of  the 
stream,  which  was  nevertheless  carried 
away  by  a  flood  in  1886. 

127  m.  Anuradhapura  (see  p.  456). 
The  road  from  Anuradhapura  to  Trin- 
comalee  paases  through 

135  m.  Mihintale (R.H.) (see  p.  467). 
After  leaving  Mihintale,  the  road 
(constructed  1886)  passes  through  a 
thinly-inhabited  country,  the  villages, 
with  their  tanks  and  cultivation,  beiug 
sparsely  scattered  through  the  forest. 

160  m.  Horowapotane  (R.H.)  A 
large  tank  and  village. 

177  m.  Pankulam  (R.H.)  A  few 
miles  beyond  Pankulam,  on  the  rt. 
of  the  road,  and  half  a  mile  from  it, 
are  the  remarkable  hot  springs  of 
Chimpiddi.  They  are  nine  in  number, 
but  tnough  of  different  temperatures, 
rise  close  together  in  one  ancient  stone 
basin.  They  are  considered  equally 
sacred  by  Buddhists,  Hindus,  and 
Mohammedans,  and  the  ruins  of  a 
dagoba,  a  temple  of  Vishnu,  and 
a  mosque  stand  together  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity. 

192  m.  Trincomalee  (see  p.  460). 


ROUTE  7 

Kandy  to  Jaffna  by 
Anuradhapura 

(To  Mat«lR  by  rail.  From  Matale  to  Dambool 
a  horse-coach  runs  daily.  From  Dainbiol 
tr.  Jaffna  a  luiIlock-stA^'C  aI«o  runs  <laily, 
penbrniing  the  jouniey  in  about  70  hrs.) 

The  railway,  which  crosses  the 
Mahawcllfi  fJmiffa  by  a  fine  bridge  on 
leaving  Kandy,  takes  us  to 


16  m.  Matale  terminus  sta.  (R.H.) 
good,  a  large  and  flourishing  village 
beautifully  situated.  Tea-estates  are 
rapidly  extending  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Matale,  and  the  beauty  or  the  scenery 
is  consequently  disappearing  with  equal 
rapidity ;  but  the  drive  between  Ma- 
tale and  Nalande  is  still  very  pleasing. 
The  ground  is  well  broken  and  beauti- 
fully varied  with  wood  and  cultivation, 
About  a  couple  of  miles  out  of  Matale. 
only  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the 
road-side,  is  the  remarkable  Buddhist 
temple  of  Ala  Vihara,  which  it  is  well 
worth  stopping  for  a  few  minutes  to 
visit.  Huge  masses  of  granite  rock  have, 
at  some  remote  period,  fallen  from  the 
mountains  overnaiiging  the  valley. 
In  the  fissures  of  these  boulders,  at  a 
considerable  height  above  the  road,  the 
monastery  has  oeen  constructed.  It 
is  difficult  to  imagine  a  site  more 
picturesque,  or  more  theatrical. 

30  m.  Nalande.  The  R.H.  (good)  is 
prettily  situated  under  fine  trees,  the 
finest  of  which,  a  gigantic  tamarind, 
the  Public  Works  Department  has 
often  striven  to  remove  in  order  to  im- 
prove the  *  *  symmetry  "  of  the  approach. 
A  steep  descent  leads  to  a  bridge ;  a  path 
from  which,  of  about  J  m.  to  the  E., 
conducts  the  traveller  to  the  ruins  of 
a  Hindu  temple  beautifully  situated. 
The  road  for  the  first  6  m.  after  leav- 
ing Nalande  is  very  pleasing,  passing 
through  fine  open  woods,  among  the 
trees  of  which  peeps  of  bare  rocky 
mountains  and  a  rushing  stream  are 
obtained.  At  Naula  a  road  to  the  W. 
leads  to  Elahera,  the  head  works  of  an 
ancient  irrigation  system  of  colossal 
dimensions. 

46  m.  Dambool  (R.H.)  excellent,  a 
large  village  immediately  under  the 
huge  black  rock  in  which  is  situated  the 
Cave  Temple  that  makes  this  place 
famous,  but  which  piesents  no  great 
attraction  to  those  wno  have  seen  the 
cave  temf)les  of  India.  At  the  same 
time.  Sir  Emerson  Tennent  says  of  it, 
"from  its  antiquity  its  ma^itude, 
and  the  richness  of  its  decoration,  it  is 
by  far  the  most  renowned  in  Ceylon." 
There  is  a  fine  view  from  the  top  of 
the  rock.  The  tern  pi  c  has  large  landed 
possessions  in  the  neighbourhood. 

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CEYLON 


[If  time  permits,  an  interesting  excur- 
sion may  be  made  to  the  rock -fortress 
of  Sigiri,  to  which  the  parricide  King 
Kasyaj^a  retired  in  the  5tn  century  after 
obtaining  the  throne  of  Ceylon  by  the 
murder  of  hit}  father,  Dhatu  Sena.  This 
extraordinary  natural  stronghold,  about 
15  m.  N.K  from  DambooC  is  situated 
in  the  heart  of  the  great  central  forest, 
above  which  it  rises  abruptly,  like  the 
Bass  Rock  out  of  the  sea.  The  journey 
is  best  performed  on  horseback,  as  the 
track  after  leaving  the  Trincomalee 
Road  is  rough.  Otherwise  it  is 
necessary  to  take  a  bullock-cart,  and 
the  slowness  of  its  progress  necessitates 
a  very  early  start  I^ere  are  but  few 
traces  of  the  hand  of  man  remaining 
upon  the  rock,  except  some  galleries 
on  the  N.W.  side  and  some  frescoes 
high  up  in  a  cavity  near  its  summit — 
accessible  only  with  the  aid  of  scaling 
ladders.  The  palace,  the  site  of  which 
is  just  traceable  on  the  N.W.  side,  and 
the  rock  itself,  are  supposed  to  have 
boon  surrounded  by  a  fosse,— a  tank 
still  exists  on  the  S.W.  side.] 

8  m.  after  leaving  Dambool  the 
Mirisgoni  Oya  is  crossed  by  a  very  high 
bridge.  Immediately  after  passing  it 
the  road  divides.  The  roaa  straight 
on  leads  N.£.  to  Trincomalee  (see 
Route  8) ;  the  branch  turning  to  the 
left,  N.,  is  that  for  Anuradhapura  and 
Jaffna,  and  passes  over  an  undulating 
park  •  like  country  and  past  many 
newly  restored  irrigation  works  to 

58  m.  Eekerawa  (R.H.)  good. 
[From  Kekerawaau  expedition  should 
be  made,  8  m.  by  good  carriage-road, 
to  the  Great  Tank  of  KALAWEWA.  ^ 
This  magnificent  sheet  of  water  was 
originally  formed  by  King  Dhatu 
Sena  about  400  A.D.,  who  bunt  a  bund 
6  m.  long,  60  ft.  high,  and  20  ft  broad 
on  the  top.  This  bund  retains  the 
waters  of  two  rivers,  and  forms  a  lake 
which  even  now,  when  the  spill  only 
reaches  a  height  of  25  ft.,  has  a  contour 
of  nearlv  40  m.  A  great  canal  from 
one  of  the  sluices  of  this  tank  carries 
water  to  Anuradhapura,  a  distance  of  52 
,  m.,  and  supplies  over  100  village  tanks 
in  its  course.  A  few  miles  of  the  canal 
f*^^  the  end  nearest  Anuradhapura  were 


restored  by  Sir  William  Gregory  nearly 
20  years  ago,  but  the  tank  itself  and 
the  remainder  of  the  canal  remained  in 
ruin,  as  they  had  been  for  many  cen- 
turies, till  1884,  when  the  CeyloB 
Government  decided  to  restore  them. 
The  work  was  completed  at  the  end  of 
1887.  The  bungalow  of  the  engineer 
in  charge  commands  a  fine  view  oyer 
the  lake.  The  ancient  spill,  260  ft. 
long,  200  ft  wide,  aud  40  ft  high,  is 
still  in  perfect  preservation  ;  the  tank 
haying  been  destroyed,  not  by  any 
failure  of  the  spill,  but  by  an  enormous 
breach  on  one  side  of  it, — now  coyered 
by  the  new  spill  wall,  a  fine  structure 
nearly  1000  ft  in  length,  which  reflects 
much  credit  on  its  designer  and  builder, 
Mr.  W.  Wrightson,  of  the  Ceylon  Public 
Works  Department  2  m.  W.  of 
Kalawewa  is  the  Ankona  Viharm,  an 
ancient  monastery  in  a  wild  and  secluded 
situation,  where  is  an  enormous  rock- 
cut  standing  statue  of  Buddha,  40  ft 
high.  The  statue  stands  almost  en- 
tirely free  of  the  rock  from  which  it  is 
carved,  and  the  right  arm  is  raised 
and  free  from  the  body  of  the  statue. 
At  the  foot  of  the  bund  are  ruins  of 
the  very  ancient  city  of  Vigitipiira.] 

The  road  frt>m  Kekerawa  passes  for 
the  most  part  through  monotonous  and 
uninteresting  forest  to 

70  m.  Tirapane  (R.H.)  4  m. 
farther  there  is  a  division  in  the  road. 
The  branch  leading  due  N.  is  the  straidit 
road  to  Jatfna  through  MihintsSe; 
that  to  the  N.W.  proceeds  in  n&uAj 
a  straight  line  to 

84  m.  ANUBADHAFITRA  (R.H.) 
good.  The  traveller  who  contemplates 
a  thorough  examination  of  the  ruins 
is  advised  to  call  on  the  Goyemment 
Agent  at  the  Cutcherry,  from  whom  he 
wul  obtain  all  necessary  informatioii 
and  assistance.  Anuradhapura  became 
the  capital  of  Ceylon  in  the  5th  cent 
B.O.,  and  attained  its  highest  magni- 
ficence about  the  commencement  of 
the  Christian  era.  It  suffered  mudi 
during  the  earlier  Tamil  invasions,  and 
was  finally  deserted  as  a  royal  residence 
769  A.D.  A  small  village  has  always . 
remained  on  the  site,  but  it  is  only 
since  the  constitution  of  the  North 


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ROUTE  7.       KANDY  TO  JAFFNA 


467 


Jentral  Province,  in  1872,  by  Sir  W. 
Jregory,  that  any  revival  has  taken 
»lace  in  this  much  neglected  district. 
>inc6  that  date,  hundreds  of  village 
auks  have  been  restored  ;  famine  and 
he  dreadful  disease  called  parangi 
produced  by  the  use  of  bad  water  and 
nsufficient  food)  have  been  driven 
tway,  and  the  population  is  yearly 
)ecoming  more  prosperous  and  healthy. 

With  a  few  exceptions,  the  objects  of 
nterestatAnuradhapura  maybe  divided 
nto  three  claaaes—Bagobas^  Monastic 
mildingSf  and  Pokunas, 

I.  Dagobas. — A  dagoba  is  a  bell- 
ihaped  construction  erected  over  some 
-elic  of  Buddha  or  his  chief  disciples, 
[t  is  always  solid,  and  is  surmounted 
>y  a  cubical  structure  called  the  tee, 
vhich  again  is  surmounted  by  a  lofty 
ipire.  The  number  of  dagobas  in 
inuradhapura  is  countless,  and  they 
rary  in  size  from  the  enormous  masses 
)f  the  four  great  dagobas  to  tinyobjects 
)arely  2  or  3  ft.  in  diameter.  The  four 
ihief  dagobas  are — 

1.  The  Mtumwelli  Dagoba,  completed 
L40  B.O.  Its  diameter  is  370  ft.,  but 
t  does  not  retain  its  ori^nal  altitude, 
laving  been  much  injured  by  the 
TamilS  in  different  invasions.  It  is 
low  only  160  ft.  in  height.  The  lower 
)art  of  the  structure  and  the  platform 
)u  which  it  stands  have  been  carefully 
ileared  about  the  year  1873,  and  the 
various  fragments  of  the  so-called 
'  chapels  "  put  together  and  restored. 

2.  The  Abhayagiriya.  This  is  the 
argest  dagoba  in  Anuradha^unu  Its 
liameter  is  357  ft,  and  its  height  when 
)erfect  was  405  fb.  It  has  now  lost 
preat  part  of  the  pinnacle,  and  its 
present  height  is  only  about  330  ft. 
[t  stands  on  a  grand  paved  platform, 
I  acres  in  extent,  raised  some  feet  above 
;he  surrounding  enclosure.  The  enor- 
nous  mass  of  bricks  in  this  structure 
)afQes  conception.  Emerson  Tennent 
calculates  that  they  are  sufficient  to 
sonstruct  a  town  of  the  size  of  Ipswich 
)r  Coventry,  or  to  build  a  wall  10  ft. 
ligh  from  London  to  Edinburgh.  The 
;ee  on  the  summit  having  shown 
lymptoms  of  falling,  it,  and  what  re- 
nained  of  the  stump  of  the  spire  above 
tf  have  been  put  into  a  thoroughly  safe 


condition  by  the  Ceylon  Gk)V6mment, 
but  the  lower  part  remains  overgrown 
and  untouched.  It  was  completed  87 
B.C.  The  summit  can  now  be  easily 
reached,  and  commands  a  magnificent 
view. 

3.  The  Jaytawanarama,  built  275 
A.D.,  was  of  about  the  same  dimensions 
as  the  Abhayagiriya.  No  restoration 
has  been  attempted  here,  but  the  trees 
which  grew  all  over  it  have  been 
cleared  off  ite  surface. 

4.  The  Miriswetiya^  though  smaller 
than  the  foregoing,  is  remarkable  for 
the  unusually  fine  sculpture  of  its  so- 
called  "chapels."  It  is  now  being 
restored,  chiefly  at  the  expense  of  a 
Siamese  prince. 

Among  the  minor  dagobas,  the  Lan- 
karama  and  Thuparama,  each  sur- 
rounded by  three  circles  of  carved 
columns,  are  among  the  most  remark- 
able and  most  elegant 

II.  The  remains  of  Monastic  Build- 
ing^ are  to  be  found  in  every  direction, 
in  the  shape  of  raised  stene  platforms, 
foundations,  and  stone  pillars.  The 
walls  themselves  between  the  pillars 
have  usually  disappeared.  One  of  the 
most  remarkable  of  these  remains  is  te 
be  seen  near  the  R.H.  It  consists  of 
1600  stone  pillars  about  12  ft.  high  and 
only  a  few  feet  distant  from  each  other, 
arranged  in  about  100  parallel  rows. 
These  pillars  formed  the  lowest  story 
of  the  famous  nine-storied  "Brazen 
Palace,"  or  monastery,  erected  by  King 
Datagamana  about  400  a.d.  But  the 
clusters  of  pillars,  with  capitals  more  or 
less  highly  carved,  and  of  platforms  of 
pavilions  in  every  direction  for  10  m. 
are  innumerable.  Among  the  most 
remarkable  is  one  called  the  Queen's 
Palace,  the  semicircular  door-step  of 
which  is  carved  with  a  double  proces- 
sion of  animals  and  studies  of  flowers. 

III.  The  Pokunas  are  bathing- tanks, 
or  tanks  for  the  supply  of  drinking 
water.  They  differ  from  irrigation 
tanks  in  being  wholly  constructed  of 
masonry  or  of  cement  These  too  are 
countless  in  number,  and  are  to  be 
found  everywhere  through  the  jungle. 
The  finest  is  the  double  bathing-tank 

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OSTLON 


in  the  outer  circular  road,  into  which 
elaborately  carved  staircases  descend. 

But  there  is  one  object  of  interest  in 
Anuradhapura  which  does  not  come 
under  any  of  these  heads — the  lacred 
Bo  tree  and  its  surroundings.  This 
tree,  of  which  only  a  fragment  now 
remains,  is  probably  the  oldest  histori- 
cal tree  existing.  It  was  planted  245 
B.C.,  and  from  that  time  to  this  has 
been  watched  over  by  a  succession  of 
guardians  never  interrupted.  It  stands 
on  a  small  terraced  mound,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  goodly  number  of  promis- 
ing descendants.  The  acyacent  build- 
ings are  all  modem,  but  the  entrance 
to  the  enclosure  possesses  a  fine  semi- 
circular door-step  or  '*moon  stone." 

The  large  tanks  of  Nuwerawewa, 
Tissawewa,  and  Basawakulam,  the  two 
latter  of  which  are  filled  from  Kala- 
wewa,  have  restored  to  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Anuradhapura  much  of  its 
former  fertility. 

[8  m.  £.  of  Anuradhapura  is  Ml- 
hintale  ( R.  H. ),  a  rocky  hill  crowned  with 
a  large  dagoba,  and  literally  covered 
with  the  remains  of  temples,  monas- 
teries, and  hermitages.  Ancient  stairs  of 
many  hundred  steps  lead  to  the  summit, 
whence  there  is  a  very  fine  view  over 
the  forest  plain,  from  which  the  great 
dagobas  of  Anuradhapura  stand  up  like 
the  pyramids  or  natural  hills.  The 
centre  of  attraction  at  Mihintale  is 
Mahindo's  Bed^  the  undoubted  cell 
occupied  by  Mahiudo,  the  apostle  of 
Buddhism  in  Ceylon,  and  containing 
the  stone  couch  on  which  he  lay.  It 
is  difficult  of  access,  but  the  view  from 
it  repays  the  exertion  of  reaching 
it.] 

On  leaving  Anuradhapura,  the  road 
passes  through  uninteresting  low  jungle 
all  the  way  to  ElephatU  Pass,  Tne 
es  are  as  follows  : — 


95  m.  from  Kandy  (by  direct  road 
through  Mihintale),  Maddawachchifa, 
R.H.,  an  insignificant  village,  but  im- 
portant as  the  point  of  junction  of  four 
main  roads. 

[A  road  hence  N.W.  leads  toMaxmaar 
<147  m.),  passing  the  unfinished  Oiant^s 


Tank  and  the  magnificent  masonry  dam 
which  was  to  divert  the  Arwoi  Aar  to 
fill  it.  Mannaar  is  a  dreary  spot  com- 
manded by  an  old  Dutch  fort,  and  only 
remarkable  for  the  number  of  the 
African  Baobabs  which  grow  freely 
there,  having  probably  been  imported 
by  Arabs  in  the  Middle  Ages.] 

Ill  m.  Vavuniya -  vilankulam,  a 
small  town,  the  headquarters  of  the 
district,  on  the  edge  of  a  newly  restored 
tank.     Fair  R.H. 

120  m.  Irampaikkalam  B.H. 

[Road  branches  off  here  to  Mvllait- 
tiTa  on  N.E.  coast.] 

182  m.  Kaaakarayanknlam  R.H. 

142  m.  Panikkankolam  R.H. 

154  m.  Iranamadu  R.H. 

All  these  are  small  R.Hs.,  with  a 
certain  amount  of  rough  furniture,  but 
without  linen  or  any  stock  of  provi- 
sions. 

The  scrub  gets  lower  and  smaller,  and 
the  soil  poorer  and  sandier,  as  we  pur- 
sue the  tedious  straight  road  to 

166  m.  Elephant  Pass.  So  named 
because  here  the  herds  of  elephants 
were  in  the  habit  of  coming  from  the 
mainland  through  the  shallow  water  to 
the  peninsula  of  Jaffna,  which  is  now 
entered  by  a  long  causeway  crossing 
the  arm  of  the  sea  which  all  but  divide 
the  district  of  Jafhia  from  the  remainder 
of  Ceylon. 

The  R.H.  is  the  old  Dutch  fort  at 
the  edge  of  the  water, — quaint  and 
picturesque. 

174  m.  Pallai  (R.H.)  We  are  now 
in  a  totally  different  region  from  that 
between  Anuradhupura  and  Elephant 
Pass.  The  peninsula  of  Jafifna  is  the 
home  of  a  bus^,  noisy,  and  closely-  I 
packed  Dopulation.  Every  acre  is 
cultivatea  and  the  garden-culture  is  of 
beautiful  neatness.  The  fine  load 
passes  through  a  succession  of  lai^ 
villages  as  it  proceeds. 

187  m.  Chavakaeheheri  (R.H.) 
good,  a  large  village  surrounded  by 
immense  groves  of  the  palmyra  palm, 


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ROUTE  8.       KANDY  TO  TRINCOMALEE 


459 


which  in  this  Province  takes  the  place 
occupied  hy  the  cocoa-nut  palm  in  the 
south. 

201  m.  JafEaa  or  Jafihapatam,  a 
large  and  flourishing  town  of  38,000 
inhabitants,  see  of  a  Roman  Catholic 
bishop. 

The  old  Dutch  Forty  of  considerable 
size,  is  in  perfect  preservation,  and  is  a 
good  si)ecimou  of  a  17th  cent,  fortifica- 
tion. Within  it  are  the  Queen's  Htmse 
(the  Governor's  residence  when  he 
visits  Jatfna),  an  old  Dutch  Church 
containing  curious  tombstones,  the 
residences  of  certain  officials,  and  the 
prison.  On  the  esplanade  between  the 
fort  and  the  city  stauds  a  graceful 
Clock  Toiver,  built  in  1882.  Many 
interesting  excui'sions  may  bo  made 
from  Jatfna,  of  which  those  best  de- 
serving mention  are,  perhaps,  the 
following  : — 

1.  To  the  American  Mission  Stations 
at  Oodooville,  Batticotta,  and  Kopay, 
where  thousands  of  children  are  edu- 
cated and  much  useful  work  done. 

2.  To  Puttoor,  where  is  a  very  re- 
markable well  or  tank  of  great  depth, 
which  is  to  all  appearance  inexhaustible 
and  ebbs  and  flows  slightly  daily. 

3.  To  Point  Pedro,  tne  northern 
port  of  Jaflha. 

There  are  some  interesting  Hindoo 
temples  at  Jaffna  and  in  its  vicinity. 


ROUTE  8 

Kandy  to  Trincomalee  (with  excur- 
sion to  Pollonarua). 

(Prom  Dambool  a  mail  carriage  drawn  by  bul- 
locks starts  daily  for  Trincomalee.  The  ex- 
cursion to  PoUouarua  must  be  made  on 
horseback.) 

As  far  as  Dambool  this  route  is  the 
same  as  Rte.  7. 

On  crossing  the  bridge  over  the 
Mirisgoni  Oya,  instead  of  turning  1.  to 
Anuradhapura  and  Jaflha  (Rte.  7),  the 
road  proceeds  straight  on,  and  passing 
rt.  tne  track  to  Sigiri  (Rte.  7),  con- 
tinues chiefly  through  dense  but  poor 
forest,  varied  by  one  or  two  villages  in 
the  midst  of  small  clearings,  to 


60  m.  (from  Kandy)  Habarane 
(R.H.)  The  village,  though  small,  is 
increasing  since  the  restoration  of  its 
tank.  There  is  a  picturesque  Bwidkist 
Temple  of  considerable  antiquity,  in 
which  are  paintings  of  better  design 
and  execution  than  are  usually  found 
in  such  places.  From  the  great  rock 
by  the  tank  a  singular  view  is  obtained 
over  the  great  sea  of  forest  to  the  N. 
and  E.,  out  of  which  rises  with  start- 
ling abruptness  the  rock  pillar  of 
Sigiri  (sec  ilte.  7). 

[From  Habarane  an  extremely  inter- 
esting excui-sion  may  be  made  to  Pol- 
lonarua {'62  m.),  one  of  the  ancient 
and  deserted  eajutals  of  C<ylon.  This 
expedition  must  be  made  on  horseback, 
as  the  road  is  merely  a  rough  bridle- 
path through  the  forest.  After  passing 
for  about  18  m.  through  wood  so  dense 
that  it  is  seldom  the  eye  can  penetrate 
more  than  a  few  yds.  on  either  side  of 
the  path,  Mineri  is  reached.  The 
journey  varies  in  length  according  to  the 
state  of  the  lake,  which  has  to  be  skirted, 
and  which  varies  in  size  considerably 
according  to  the  season.  This  lake  is  all 
that  remains  of  a  huge  tank,  the  bund 
of  which  still  exists,  but  of  which  the 
sluices,  though  not  destroyed,  are  now 
permanently  kept  open  by  fallen  masses 
of  masonry.  The  scenery  of  this  lake 
is  enchanting,  and  nothing  can  exceed 
the  beauty  both  in  form  and  colour  of 
the  mountain  ranges  to  the  S.  There 
is  a  sort  of  shelter  at  the  Gansabhawa 
tribunal  in  the  village  below  the  bund, 
but  the  traveller  is  strongly  recom- 
mended to  have  some  temporary  shelter 
put  up  for  him  on  the  bund  itself, 
where  there  is  fresh  air,  and  whence 
he  can  enjoy  the  exquisite  views  during 
a  midday  halt.  Half  way  between 
Mineri  and  Pollonania  is  the  small 
lake  of  Giritella,  also  an  abandoned 
tank,  and  also  highly  picturesque. 
The  approach  to  Pollonarua  (R.H.), 
like  that  to  Mineri,  varies  considerably 
in  length  according  to  the  height  of 
water  m  the  lake.  On  the  bund  is  a 
R.H.  overlooking  the  lake.  The  view 
is  very  similar  to  that  from  Mineri, 
and  is  of  gi'eat  beauty,  though  less  so 
now  than  it  was  before  some  zealous 
public  officer,  in  his  desire  that  nothing 

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CETLON 


should  impede  the  view  to  the  S.,  cut 
down  a  clump  of  trees  on  a  projecting 
promontory,  which  must  have  formed 
a  lovely  foreground  to  it. 

PoUonariia  first  became  a  royal  resi- 
dence in  3d8  A.D.,  when  the  lake  of 
Topawetoa  was  formed,  but  it  did  not 
take  rank  as  the  capital  till  the  middle 
of  the  8th  cent.  The  principal  ruins, 
however,  are  of  a  later  date,  being 
chiefly  of  the  time  of  Prakrama  Bahu, 
1153-1186  A.D.  It  is  now  wholly 
deserted,  and  the  masses  of  ruin,  which 
are  strewed  for  miles  around,  have  to 
be  sought  in  the  dense  jungle.  The 
following  are  the  principal  objects  of 
interest. 

About  1  m.  S.  of  the  R.H.  is  the 
colossal  rook-cut  statue  of  Prakrama 
Bahu,  a  cast  of  which  is  to  be  seen  in 
the  Colombo  Museum.  To  the  W.  lie 
the  ruins  of  what  appears  to  have  been 
a  strong  tower,  the  probably  wooden 
interior  of  which  is  wholly  gone  ;  and 
a  little  farther  in  the  same  direction 
are  the  royal  pavilions  and  bathing- 
tank,  ornamented  by  much  elegant 
sculpture. 

Aoout  i  m.  to  the  N.  is  a  remarkable 
group  of  buildings:  The  Dalada,  or 
tooth-shrine,  a  fine  granite  building  in 
good  preservation,  and  having  much 
ele^nt  ornament  of  quasi -Hindu 
desiffu  ;  the  Thuparama,  a  large  mas- 
sive orick  building,  of  which  the  front 
and  the  roof  of  the  eastern  part  have 
fallen  i  the  inner  chamber  preserves  its 
vault,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  tower ; 
the  Wate  Dage,  a  curious  circular 
edifice  on  a  raised  mound,  with  4  carved 
staircases,  and  a  low  stone  terrace  with 
an  ornamental  parapetof  unique  design ; 
and  the  Ata  Dage,  a  large  temple  much 
ruined.  In  the  same  immediate  vicin- 
ity are  the  Satmahal  Frasada, — a  tower 
of  seven  stones  of  diminishing  size  ;  a 
Buddhist  "  post  and  rail "  enclosure  ; 
and  a  little  farther  to  the  £.  the 
Vishnu  Dewale,  a  very  ornamental 
structure  of  semi-Hinau  design,  in 
good  preservation. 

i  m.  further  N.  is  the  Bankot  Da- 
goba,  built  in  the  12th  cent  It  is 
200  ft.  in  height,  with  a  diameter  of 
180  ft.  The  spire  is  very  perfect; 
even    the    statues    surrounding    the 


drum  bein^  clearly  discernible.  Near 
it,  but  to  the  N.,  is  the  Jetawanarama, 
a  temple  170  ft.  in  length,  at  the  end 
of  which  is  a  statue  of  Buddha  over 
60  ft.  in  height.  The  Kiri  dagobt, 
about  100  fL  high,  the  chunam  coat- 
ing of  which  is  still  very  perfect,  is  k 
the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  thii 
building. 

Another  i  m.  of  jungle  has  to  bi 
traversed  to  reach  the  Gal  Vihara,  a 
spot  where  are  a  rock -cut  figure  of 
Buddha  sitting,  a  colossal  statue  of 
Amanda,  Buddha's  favourite  disciple, 
and  a  reclining  figure  of  Buddha,  46 
ft.  long,  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock. 

1  m.  farther  N.  again  is  the  Demala 
Maha  Saya,  a  very  lar^e  building, 
highly  ornamented,  of  which  the  roof 
and  upper  part  of  the  walls  have  fallen 
in.  The  a^bris  was  partially  cleared 
away  in  1886,  when  many  interesting 
frescoes  were  found  on  the  walls,  bat 
these  have  since  to  a  great  extent 
perished  from  exposure. 

The  dagobas  of  Pollonarua  will  not 
compare  with  those  of  Anuradhapura, 
but  the  buildings  of  the  temples  and 
other  structures  are  in  far  better  pre- 
servation. A  huge  red  lotus  grows  in 
great  profusion  in  the  lake,  probably 
the  descendant  of  those  cultivated  for 
use  in  the  temples  and  palaces  of  the 
city.  Pollonarua  seems  to  have  been 
abandoned  about  the  end  of  the  13th 
cent.] 

75  m.  Alutoya  (R.H.),  in  the  midst 
of  the  thick  forest ;  not  a  bad  sta.  for 
sportsmen.  The  country  is  flat,  and 
the  jungle  of  such  uniform  character 
as  to  become  very  monotonous.  Mon- 
keys are  certain  to  be  seen  crossing  the 
road  in  large  troops,  during  t^ 
portion  of  the  journey. 

92  m.  Eantalai  (R.H.),  on  the  bmid 
of  the  great  tank  of  Eantalai,  restored 
by  Sir  W.  Gregory  in  1875. 

106  m.  Palampoddara  (R.  H. ),  on  the 
edge  of  a  stream  in  a  very  wild  country. 

116  m.  Trincomalee  (R.H.),  a  town 
with  a  fine  harbour,  on  the  N.E.  coast 
of  the  island.  It  is  built  on  the  N.  side 
of  the  bay,  on  the  neck  of  a  bold  penin- 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC 


ROUTE  9.      A  flPOBTING  TOUB 


461 


lula,  se])aratiiig  the  inner  from  the 
mter  harbour.  The  latter  is  about  4 
iq.  m.  in  extent,  with  very  deep  water. 
Tne  place  is  well  laid  out,  but  the 
bouses  are  poor.     Pop.  10,000. 

The  town  was  one  of  the  earliest 
tiettlements  of  the  Malabar  race  in 
Ceylon.  They  built  a  great  temple  on 
the  spot  where  Fort  Frederick  now 
stands.  The  building  was  destroyed 
by  the  Portuguese  when  they  took  the 
place  in  1622,  and  the  materials  were 
employed  to  build  the  fort ;  but  the 
site  is  still  held  in  great  veneration, 
and  every  week  a  Brahman  priest,  in 
the  presence  of  a  large  crowd,  throws 
ofiferings  into  the  sea  from  a  ledge 
near  the  summit  of  a  huge  precipice  of 
black  rock  :  a  most  picturesque  scene. 
Since  the  expulsion  of  the  Portuguese, 
European  nations  have  held  the  place 
in  the  following  order:  Dutch,  1639 
A.D.  ;  French,  1673  A.D.  ;  Dutch,  1674 
A.D.  ;  French,  1782  A.  D. ;  Dutch,  1783 
A.D. ;  Enjijlish,  1796.  It  was  taken  by 
the  English  fleet  after  a  siege  of  three 
weeks,  and  was  formally  ceded  to 
Great  Britain  by  the  Treaty  of  Amiens 
in  1801. 

Trincomalee  is  the  principal  naval 
station  of  the  Indian  seas.  The  dock- 
yard is  in  the  inner  harbour,  and  there 
is  deep  water  close  to  the  best  wharves. 
A  laree  amount  has  lately  been  ex- 
pended on  the  improvement  of  its 
fortifications. 


ROUTE  9 

A  Sporting  Tottb 

Such  a  tour  as  the  following,  of 
course,  requires  some  degree  of  prepara- 
tion. Though  there  are  Rest-Houses 
on  the  route  indicated,  they  are  but 
few.  They  contain  probably  no  furni- 
ture save  a  table  and  a  bench  or  two, 
and  are  auite  destitute  of  supplies. 
The  traveller  or  sportsman  will  have 
to  carry  his  own  food,  cooking  utensils, 
bedding,  and  tent ;  and  this  will  neces- 
sitate the  employment  of  numerous 
^  porters,  whose  pace  must  regulate  his 
own,  though,  if  on  horseback,  he  can 


get  over  the  ground  more  rapidly  than 
they  do.  If  expense  is  not  an  object, 
it  would  be  well  to  cet  temporary 
shelters  of  bamboo  and  leaf  thatch  put 
up  at  those  places  where  there  is  no 
ICest-House,  for  the  tent  is  but  an  in- 
different protection  against  either  fierce 
sun  or  heavy  rain,  and  health  may 
seriously  suffer  in  consequence.  Of 
course  it  is  not  supposed  to  be  likely 
that  any  sportsman  would  make  the 
wfiole  of  this  tour,  but  it  indicates  a 
line  of  country  any  part  of  which 
would  make  a  good  centre  for  sport. 
The  animals  to  1^  found  are  elephants, 
bears,  leopards,  deer,  and  in  some 
places  wild  buffaloes ;  wild  peacocks 
abound  in  the  forests,  and  the  tanks 
and  marshes  are  full  of  wildfowl ;  they 
also  swarm  with  crocodiles. 

Starting  from  Badnlla  by  carriage 
the  road  to  Bibile  is  described  in 
Route  2. 

Here  wheel  conveyance  must  be 
abandoned,  and  the  distance  must  be 
counted  not  by  miles  but  in  hours, 
the  hour  being  calculated  on  the  ordi- 
nary pace  of  a  loaded  porter. 

6hrs.Nilgala(RH.)  A  small  village 
with  a  little  patch  of  paddy  cultivation^ 
situated  most  picturesc|nely  on  a  river 
at  the  entrance  to  a  wild  and  narrow 


4  hrs.  Dambegalla  (RH.)  A 
small  village,  in  the  vicinity  of  which 
irrigation  works  have  recently  been 
constructed. 

3  hrs.  Meddegama  (RH.)  In  a 
very  pretty  jungle  country  abounding 
with  elephants. 

5  hrs.  Nakelo  (R.H.)  There  is  a 
picturesque  Buddhist  temple  on  the 
side  of  a  mountain  in  the.  neighbour- 
hood. 

3  hrs.  Buttale  (R.H.)  An  oasis 
of  cultivation  in  the  jungle,  due  to 
the  restoration  of  its  ancient  irriga- 
tion works.  Everywhere  through  the 
forests  the  ruins  of  ancient  systems  of 
irrigation  and  other  vestiges  of  civilisa- 
tion are  to  be  found. 


d  by  Google 


46 -J 


CEYLON 


4  Inrs.  Qalge.  A  mass  of  bare  rocks 
rising  from  tlie  jungle.  There  is  no 
Rest- House  here,  and  though  some 
shelter  may  be  obtained  in  caves,  tents 
or  a  tem)K>rary  house  would  be  needed. 

3  hrs.  Kateragam  (R.  H. )  A  famous 
place  of  Hindu  pilgiimage,  to  which 
worahippei-s  were  wout  to  resort  from 

kbW  parts  of  India,  as,  indeed,  they 
occasionally  still  do.  The  pilgrimage 
was  found  to  produce  snch  miscliievnus 
effects  in  the  spread  of  disease  that 
the  Ceylon  Government  has  for  many 
years  endeavoured  to  check  it,  and  it 
is  now  reduced  to  comparatively  small 
numbers.  Still,  at  the  time  of  the 
annual  pilgrimage,  the  temple  and  its 
vicinity  form  a  picturesque  and  inter- 
esting sight  The  temple  itself  is  but 
an  inbigniticant  building,  and  a  single 
gilt-metal  tile  forms  the  only  relic  of 
the  golden  roof  for  which  it  was  once 
celebrated. 

6  hrs.  Palutupaae  (R.H.)  (see  p. 
454).     In  the  Southern  Province. 

4  hrs.  Yala  River  (R.H.)  (a  mere 
hut).  We  are  here  in  the  midst  of 
the  best  sporting  country,  and  here 
begins  the  district  in  which  wild 
buH'aloes  are  still  found.  Good  forest 
scenery  on  river. 

8  hrs.  Uda  Potana.  No  Rest-House. 
About  two  hours  from  Uda  Potana 
we  reach  the  ford  crossing  the  Kumba- 
kan  Aar,  the  boundary  between  the 
SoutheiTi  and  Eastern  Provinces,  and 
about  an  hour  farther  is  Eomani 
(R.H.),  near  a  small  village. 

4  hrs.  Okanda  (R.H.)  at  the  foot  of 
a  bare  rock  rising  out  of  the  sea  of 
jungle.  Peacocks  are  to  be  found  in 
great  abundance  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  Okanda. 

5  hrs.  Nanla  (R.H.),  a  small  village. 

6  hrs.  Lahugalawewa.  A  restored 
tank ;  the  haunt  of  many  wild  fowl. 
There  is  a  Public  Works  Bungalow 


at  the  tank.  Its  accommodation  is 
limited.  Many  elephants  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

From  this  point  an  excursion  of 
some  days  may  be  made  through  the 
wild  country  on  the  border  of  Urn 
and  the  Eastern  Province.  There  are 
next  to  no  villager,  and  the  only 
accommodation,  not  specially  nrovidei 
for,  would  have  to  be  founa  in  tbi 
meagre  hospitality  of  some  secluded 
Buddhist  monastery,  of  which  a  few 
are  scattered  through  the  forests.  It 
is  useless  to  indicate  any  particular 
route,  as  that  would  certainly  be  made 
to  depend  upon  the  reports  received  as 
to  the  haunts  of  wild  animals  at  the 
time. 

It  may,  however,  be  assumed  that  a 
return  to  comparative  civilisation  will 
be  made  at  Izrakamam,  a  restored  tank, 
where  there  is  a  Public  Works  Bunga- 
low. In  its  vicinity  are  the  scanty 
ruins  of  what  was  once  an  enormoos 
dagoba,  and  a  good  road  leads  hence 
to  Kalmunai  on  the  coast,  and  thence 
to  (22  m.)  Batticaloa  (see  Rte.  2).  The 
sj)ortsman,  however,  will  probably 
prefer  to  proceed  through  the  jungles  to 
Amparai  and  Chadiyantalawa  tanks, 
both  of  which  are  swarming  with 
crocodiles  ;  and  from  the  latter  to 

6  hrs.  the  river  Nemal  Aar,  the 
boundary  of  the  Eastern  Province,  on 
crossing  which  the  traveller  finds  him- 
self again  in  Uva. 

5  hrs.  riding  along  a  good  track  will 
bring  him  back  to  Nilgala,  from  whence 
he  may  either  return  to  BaduUa  the 
way  he  came,  or  by  6  hrs.  Medtleffsma 
(R.H.)  and  4  hrs.  Alupota  (R.H.)  in 
a  lovely  position,  rejoining  the  main 
road  to  Badulla  at  (2  hrs.)  Passara 
(R.H.)8ee  Route  2. 

^nuradhapura  and  Ti'incomalee  are 
also  good  centres  from  which  to  make 
sporting  excursions. 


d  by  Google 


INDEX  AND  DIEECTORY  FOR   1901 


(R.)=;  Refreshment  Room  ;  D.B.  =  Dak  or  Travellers'  Bungalow ; 
R.H.  =Re8t  House  ;  H.  =  Hotel. 


ABBOTABAD,  D.B.,  2l2. 

ABU  (MOUNT).    See  Mtmnt 
AbiL. 

ABU  ROAD  (R.),  119.' 
,    D.B.    close   to   rly.    sta. 
Ponies  and   other   convey- 
ances obtainable. 

ACHILaHAR,  120. 

ACHNBRA  (R.),  167,  182. 

ADAM'S  PEAK,  446,  449. 

ADAMWAHAN       BRIDGE, 
224. 

ADONI,  333. 

AORA(R.),  D.B.  good,  167. 

Hotels :  Laurie's  Great 
Northern  H.,  about  1  m. 
from  rly.  sta., beet ;  Castle  d 
Imperial  H.  ;  H.  Mitropole. 

Banks:  B.  of  Bengal,  The 
Uncovenanted  B. 

Ghurclies :  St.  George's, 
Cantonment,  Matins  daily, 
7.30  A.M.,  Sunday  10  a.m., 
with  H.  C. ;  Evensong,  6  p.m.  ; 
St.  Paul's,  Civil  Lines,  8 
A.M.,  Matins  with  H.  C. 
alternate  Sundays  ;  ,'<t. 
MiUhias's,  Agra  Fort,  8  a.m.. 
Matins  alternate  Sundays ; 
R.  C.  CathedralmCiviMAxiQ^. 
,  Olub :  Agra  C,  near  Po.st 
Office. 

l»S8loiis:  C.M.S.,  St. 
John's  College. 

Shops:  Shawl  Merchants, 
Gold  and.  Silver  Embroidery, 
Gunashi  Lall  and  Son's, 
Jahori  Bazaar  ;  Soap-stone, 
arid  Inlaid  Marble  Work, 
Xulhoo  Ram,  opposite  Agra 
College. 

AHAR,  86. 

[India,  viii.  01.] 


AHMEDABAD  (R.),  111. 
No  Hotel :  D.B.  200  yds. 
S.W.  of  Church,  just  outside 
Delhi  Gate;  Good  Bedrooms 
attached  to  the  rly.  sta. 
Refreshment  Room.s, 

AHMEDNAGAR(R.),D.B.330. 
dub  good. 
Golf  Club. 

Missions:  S.P.G.,  see  p. 
330. 
AIWALLI,  315. 
AJANTA,  31. 
AJMERE  (R.),  123. 

Sleeping  Rooms  at  tlie 
Rly.  Sta.  excellent.    D.B. 
Club:  Kaiser Bagh. 
Mission :  Medical  of  U.F. 
Church  of  Scotland. 
AJODHYA,  249. 
AKOLA,  74. 
AKYAB,  D.B.,  438. 

Club  :  Akyab  Gymkhana 
Club,  Main  Road. 

Ctoneral  Stores  :    Wood- 
ward  and  Co.,  Jacob  OMd  Co., 
Cohen  and  Abdul  Kmlir. 
ALIABAD  SERAI,  220. 
ALIGARH,  257. 

D.B.     Kellner's    Refresh- 
ment and  Sleeping  Rooms. 
ALIWAL,  196. 
ALLAHABAD  (R.).  30. 

Kellner's  Rooms,  at- 
tached to  the  rly.  sta.,  afford 
comfortable  sleeping  accom- 
modation, and  Jire  perlmps 
the  best  place  to  stop  at. 
Chota-hazri  is  provided  in 
the  rooms,  but  other  meals 
have  to  be  taken  in  the  Rly. 
Refreshment  Room. 

Hotels  :    Laurie's    Great 
Northern   H. 
Club :  N.  IK  P.  Club. 
Missions  ;    C.M.S.,    St. 
Paul's    Church ;     Divinity 
College. 
Newspapers:  The  Pioneer, 


a  daily  i>aper,  one  of  the 
most  iniix)rtant  in  India ; 
Tlie  Pioneer  Mail,  for  readers 
in  Europe.  The  Morning 
Post. 
ALMORAH,  254. 

D.B.,  but  no  hotels. 

Houses  are  to  be  obtained 
on  hire. 

ALOR,  225. 

ALUPOTA,  R.H.,  462. 

ALUTNUWERA,  447. 

ALUTOYA,  R.H.  small,  well 
situated  for  sportsmen,  400. 

ALWAR  (Ulwar),  130. 

D.B.  close  to  rly.  sfa. 
Application  should  be  ma'lfe 
beforehand  to  the  Mahara- 
jah's Secretary  for  rooms, 
and  for  tKe  use  of  a  carriage, 
which  is  kindly  put  at  the 
disposal  of  visitors  (there  is 
a  small  charge);  also  for  per- 
mission to  visit  the  Palace, 
Library,  Trejisury,  and 
Annoury.  There  are  Rooms 
at  the  Maharajah's  private 
rly.  sta.  Travellers  are  some- 
times allowed  to  occupy 
them  on  application  to  the 
Maharajah'^s  Secretary,  but 
they  are  not  good,  and  there 
is  no  cook  on  the  premises. 
Mission:  U.F.  Ch.  of  Scot. 

AMARAPURA,  429. 

AMARAVATI,  360. 

AMARKANTAK.  76 

AMARNATH  CAVE,  219 

AMBALANGODA,  R.H.  tirst- 
class  :  ■  good  bathing-place, 
452. 

AMBALANTOTTA,  R.H.  fair, 
453. 

AMBARNATH,  28,  318. 

AMBEPUSSA,  443. 

AMBER,  128.    See  Jeypore. 
(R.)  at  foot  of  hill. 

itizedbyG00gIe2    H 


466 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


AMGAON  (R.X  76. 

AMMAYANAYAKANUR, 

404. 

D.B.  comfortal)le,  close 
to  rly.  8ta.,  convenient  for 
travellers  to  and  from 
Palney  Hills,  Madura. 

AMPARAI,  462. 

AMRAOTI,  84,  74. 

Waiting  and  Refresh- 
ment Rooms.    Good  D.B. 

AMRTTSAR  (R.X  196. 

D.B.  poor.  Travellers  are 
recommended  to  take  rooms 
and  have  chota-hazri  here, 
but  to  have  other  meals  at 
the  rly.  sta.  close  by. 

Hotel:  Civil  &  Military  H. 

Missions :  C.M.S.,  St. 
Paul's  Church ;  Schools  and 
Hospital. 

ANADRA,  D.B.,  1^1. 

ANAGUNDI,  358. 

ANAND,  110. 

ANANDALE,  192. 

ANDHOR,  88. 

ANJIDIVA  ISLAND,  364. 

ANURADHAPURA,        R.H. 

good,  456. 

ARGOT,  371. 

ARJ  UNA'S  PENANCE,  411. 

ARKONAM  (R.),  386. 

Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation at  rly.  sta. 

ARRAH,  D.B.,  47. 

ARSIKERE  (R.),  362. 

ASENSOL,  61,  78. 

ASIRGARH  HILL-PORT,  34. 

ASOKA'S  PILLARS,  38,  142. 

ASSAM  VALLEY,  273. 

Mail  GommiuiicaUon 
with  Calcutta.  The  mail 
train  leaves  Calcutta  at  1 
P.M.,  reaches  Teesta  at  8 
A.M.  next  morning,  and  is  at 
Jatrapur  on  the  Brahma- 
putra the  same  afternoon. 
The  mail  steamer  starts  in 
connection  with  the  train 
up-stream,  via  Dhubri,  and 
reaches  Gauhati  the  next 
evening,  and  Dibnigarh  3 
days  later. 

Missions:  American  Medi- 
cal Mission  has  several  sta- 
tions in  Assam. 

ASSAROREE,  D.B.,  256. 
ATCHIBAL,  219. 


ATTOOK,  D.B.,  212. 

AURANGABAD,  D.B.  good, 
65, 

AVA,  429. 

AVANTIPORE,  219 
AVISAWBLLA,    R.H.    excel- 

lent,  449.  Hotel. 
AWATKOOLA,  217. 
AZIMGANJ,  264. 

B. 

BADAMI,  312. 

BADNBRA  (R.  and  Waiting 
Room),  D.B.,  74. 

BADULLA,  R.H.  good,  447. 

BAGDEHI,  77. 

BAHADARPUR,  109. 

BAHAWALPUR,  D.B.,  224. 

BAILLUR,  860. 

BALANGODA,  R.H.,  450. 

BALAPILLI,  335. 

BALASORE,  D.B.,  292. 

BALIGUNJ,  61. 

BALIPITHAM,  409. 

BALSAR,  106. 

BALTAL,  219. 

BAMBURA,  281. 

BANAWAR,  360. 

BAND  A  (R.),  D.B.,  103. 
Club :  Banda  C. 

BANDARAWELLA,  .  Good 
hotel,  lately  opened,  450. 

BAN  DEL,  64. 

BANDIKUI  (R.),  129,  167. 

BANDRA,  104. 

BANGALORE  (R.),  376. 

Hotels :  West  End  H.  best, 
Cubbon  H.  (accommodation 
at  these  2  hotels  is  above  the 
average),  Boioring  JL,  Mayo 
H.y  CantrOnmetU  H.,  Polo 
Ground  H. 

Club:  United  Service  C, 
27  Residency  Road. 

BANKIPUR  (R.),  48. 

D.B.  good,  near  rly.  sta. 

Bank :  Bank  of  Madras. 

Churohes :  St.  Mark's  and 
St.  Thomas's. 
BANSHANKAR,  314. 
BARA,  D.B.,  214. 
BARADE,  237. 
BARAKAR,  51. 
BARAMGALLA,  D.B.,  220. 
BARAMUI^,  217. 

D.B.    Good. 


BARANG,  353. 
BARCHANA,  D.B.,  290. 
BARDA  HELLS,  164. 
BABEILLY,  D.B.,  238. 

Reynolds  and  Co.'sB^fnA- 
m£nt  Room^  at  the  rly.  sU. 
Club :  Bareilly  C. 
BAKNI  HAT,  D.B.,  274. 
BARODA,  108. 

Good  Be&eitiune»t  and 
Waiting  Booms  and  sleei>- 
ing  accommodation. 

D.B.  in  camp,  1^  m.  from 
rly.  sta. 

Cburcbes :  Axgucas— 
consecrated  by  Bp.  Heber, 
1824 ;  restored  1838.    There 
are  also  R.C.  and  Methodist 
Churches. 
BARRACKPUB,  62. 
BARSI  ROAD(R.),  R.H.,33L 
BARWA-8AUGAB,  D.B.,10i 
BASSEIN  (Burma),  438. 
BASSEIN  ROAD,  104. 

Waiting  Boom  at  rly.  sta. 
D.B.  near  ruins.    Write  to 
station-master  for  carriage. 
BASTAMBADI,  288. 
BATINDA,  166,  224. 
BATTICALOA,  R.H.,  448. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B. I.S.N.  Co.,  W.   T.   Warn- 
beck  and  Co. 
BATTUL  OYA,  454. 
BATWA,  117. 
BAUMARI,  102. 
BAWAN,  219 
BBAWAR,  D.B.,  123. 
BEDSA  OAVES,  828. 
BELELI,  236. 
BELGAUM  (R.X  299. 
D.B.  ^  m.  fi-oui  sta. 

BELIHULOYA,    R.H.   good, 

422. 
BELLART(R.),  D.B.,  357. 
Hotel :  AbraJumi's  H. 
BELPAHAN,  77. 
BBLUNGALA  HILL,  444. 
BELUR,  360. 
BENARES,  D.B.,  39. 

Hotels:     H.     de    Paris; 

Clark's  H.  both  good. 
Missions :     CM^     (at 

Sigra),  St.   Paul's  Choceb, 

College  and  Normal  Schools. 
BENTOTTA,  B.H.  very  good, 

452. 
BERAR,73. 
BERARLI,  221. 
BERHAMPUR,  D.B.^Sfl6w 
BBRHAMPUR<Gai\jam>  SSS. 

3d  by  Google 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


"^cXvL/t 


,M/t/ 


467 


BEYPUR,  868. 

Steamship  Agents : 
B.I.  *S.N.  Co.,AndrewanclCo. 

BBYT,  164. 

BEZWADA  (B.) 
D.B.,  352,  S5S. 

Is  the  June,  of  the  B.  C!oast 
Rly.  (of  which  the  first  sod 
was  cut  in  Oct.  1890)  with 
the  Bellary-Kistiia  (8.  Mah- 
ratta  Rly.  Co.)  and  Nizam's 
Rlys. 

BHAJA  OAVES,  823. 

BHAKKnB(R.),  D.B.,  225. 

BHAMO,  480. 

BHANDARA    ROAD,    D.B., 

76. 

BHAUNAGAB,  155. 

D.B.  Horse  and  bullock 
shigrams  to  be  had. 

BHAYANDAR,  104. 

BHEWANI,  165. 

BHILSA,  87. 

BHIMBER,  D.B.,  220. 

BHIM  TAL,  254. 

BHOJESPURA,  253. 

BHOJPUR,  88. 

BHOPAL(R.),  86. 
D.B.  near  rly.  sta. 

BHUMTI,  164. 

BHUBTPUB,  167. 

D.B.  outside  the  5lattwi 
Gate. 
BPIUSAWAL  (B.),  34,  73. 
BHUTIA  BUSTI,  271. 
BHTJVANBSHWAB,  283,  353 
BIBILB,  R.H.,  448. 
BIBI  NANI,  237. 
BIDAR,  351. 

BUAPUB  (B.),  304. 

D.B.  in  mosque  attached 
to  the  Gol  Gunibaz.  J  m. 
from  rly.  sta.,  where  Tongas 
are  to  be  had.  Clean,  good 
meals,  but  should  be  ordered 
beforehand. 

BIKANIR,  123. 
BILASPUB  (B.),  76. 
BILE8HWAR,  164. 
BIMLAPATAM,  852. 
BINA  (R.),  89. 
BIKDRABAN,  186. 
BLACK  PAGODA,  282. 
60LANPASS,  236,  237. 
BOLARAM,  848. 


BOMBAY,  1 

Hotels :  Men  properly 
iuti-oduced  can  obtain  ac- 
commodation at  most  of 
the  clubs  ;  GrtcU  Western  H. 
(comfortable,  recommended) 
Aix>llo  Bundur  H.,  both  in 
Apollo  Street ;  Watson's  Es- 
pUuiade  H.,  good  x>osition 
close  to  Secretariat:  this 
hotel  has  an  Annexe,  where 
travellers  will  probably  be 
more  comfortable  than  at 
the  hotel  itself;  The  Gymk- 
hana H.  in  the  Fort,  small ; 
Gamballa  H.,  on  Camballa 
Hill  (best  for  a  lengthened 
stay). 

Bestaurants  :  Victoria 
Station,  Restaurant :  TJie 
Apollo,  Apollo  Bandar ; 
Coniaglia  late  PelUi  (con- 
fectioner),  83  Meadow  St. 

Agents  :  Mess-rs.  King, 
King  and  Co.,  Standard 
Buildings,  Hornby  Row 
(blanch  of  Henry  S.  King  and 
Co.,  65  Comhill),  Watson 
and  Co.,  8  Hornby  Road, 
GrivdUty,  Groom  and  Co., 
Elphinstone  Circle.  These 
firms  undertake  all  business 
in  connection  with  travel- 
ling and  financial  arrange- 
ments, forwarding  of  goods, 
engagmg  of  native  servants, 
etc.,  m  India. 

Thos.  Cook  and  Son,  Ram- 
part Row,  supply  all  kinds 
of  information  about  excur- 
sions and  tours  in  India,  and 
provide  circular  tickets,  etc. 

Bands :  On  certain  days 
of  the  week  at  the  Yacht 
Club  and  on  the  Esplanade, 
a  favourite  promenade  ;  also 
at  Victoria  Gardens,  By- 
culla,  on  Saturday. 

Bankers:  Bank  of  Bom- 
hay,  Elphinstone  Circle  ; 
Chartered  Bank  of  India, 
Elphinstone  Circle ;  Hong- 
Kong  and  Shanghai  Bank; 
Church  Ciate  St. ;  National 
Banko/India,'Rsiinyart  Row. 

Baths:  Salt-water  Sunm- 
ming  Baths  on  Back  Bay, 
and  at  Breach  Candy.  The 
swimming  bath  is  60  ft.  by 
30  ft.,  and  from  4 J  ft.  to 
10  ft.  deep.  The  subscrip- 
tion is  a  rupee  a  month,  and 
those  who  do  not  subscribe 
pay  2  annas  for  each  bath. 
Bathers  can  have  coflTee  and 
cigarettes.  The  baths  are 
open  for  sultscribers  on 
Sund.  before  8  a.m.  ;  on 
Tues.  and  Frid.  before  10 
A.M. ;    and   for   ladies    on 


Mon.  and  Thurs.  before  10 
A.M.  At  other  hours  non- 
subscribers  may  bathe. 

Booksellers:  Thadcerand 
Co.,  Ltd.,  A.  J.  Cambridge 
and  Co.,  both  in  Esplanade 
Road. 

Chemists :  Kemp  and  Co., 
corner  of  Church  Gate  St. 
and  Elphinstone  Circle ; 
Treacher  and  Co.,  Esj'lanade 
Road ;  rhillips  and  Co.,  Es- 
planade Road;  all  three 
have  establishments  at  By- 
culla;  Taylor  and  Co.,  Es-  ' 
planade.  * 

Churches,  etc.,  see  pp.  9 
and  10. 

Clubs :  Byailla  Club,  Bel- 
lasis  Road,  Byculla,  with 
sleeping  accommodation  at- 
tached. Strangers  admitted 
as  hon.  members. 

Bombay  Club,  26  Esplan- 
ade. The  entrance  fee,  100 
rs.,  monthly  subscription, 
6  rs.  Strangers  admitted  as 
hon.  members.  Enquire  at 
Club  for  price  of  rooms. 
Tlie  cuisine  is  good. 

Yacht  Club,  on  the  Apollo 
Bandar,overlookingthe  bay. 
Subscription  for  Strangers  . 
admitted  as  members,  16  rs. 
a  month.  Iiadies  are  ad- 
mitted when  accompanied 
by  a  member  or  hon.  menj- 
ber.  200  rs.  entrance  fee  ff>r 
permanent  membership,  and 
6  rs.  a  month. 

The  Bombay  Gi/mkhana 
and  Golf  Club,  Queen's  Road. 
Subscription,  4  rs.  a  month. 

hulies'  Gymkhana,  The 
Ridge,  Malabar  Hill,  with 
lawn  tennis  and  badminton 
grounds.  A  favourite  resort 
in  the  evenings.  Fine  view 
over  Back  Bay.  Hon.  mem- 
bers admitted. 

Consuls:  American,  Mr. 
W.  T.  Fee,  Ezra  Buildinir, 
Apollo  Bandar.  There  aie 
representatives  of  most 
other  nati»)ns. 

Conveyances:  A  carriage, 
with  a  single  horse,  will  cost 
5  rs.  a  day,  with  2  horses, 
10  rs.,  but  there  are  plenty 
of  carriages  in  the  streets  to 
be  hired  by  tiie  trip  at 
moderate  fixed  fares. 

Dentists  :  Bromley  and 
Campbell,  Dean  Lane. 

Oeneral  Stores :  Treacher 
and  Co.;  'Bolton  and  Co., 
Esplanade ;  Army  and  Navy 
Stores,  Apollo  St. ;  PhUlips 
and  Co.,  Esplanade. 


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468 


INDEX  AND  DIRBCTORT 


Hairdressers  :  Fiteile, 
under  Bombay  Club. 

House  Axent :  E.  florcer, 
Humniam  St. 

Libraries :  Asiatic  Society 
Library  in  the  Town  Hall ; 
the  SoMoan  Institute,  Es- 
planade, adjoining  Watson's 
H.  (strangers  can  join  the 
lending  library  for  a  week). 

Markets:  Crawford,  for 
ftnit,  vegetables,  flowers, 
poultry,  meat,  etc. 

Cloth,  in  Native  Quarter, 
Shaik  Memon  St. 

Cotton,  Cotton  Green, 
Colaba. 

Copper,  close  to  Momba- 
devi  Tank,  Native  Quarter. 

Opium,  there  is  no  definite 
market-place,  but  business  ' 
U  transacted  in  the  streets 
of  the  Native  Quarter. 

Medical  Men:  Dr.  Sidney  , 
Smith,  Mazagon ;  Dr   Dim- 
mock,  Dr.  Childe,  F.  A.  Foy.  \ 

Merchants:  for  H'ood  can'-  j 
ing.  Inlaid  work.  Silks,  and  i 
Enthroideries,    Tellery    and 
Co.,  Esplanade  Road  (verj'  , 
good),  and  also  at  the  shops 
in  Kalbadevi  Road  and  the 
ad.ioining  streets. 

Milliner,     Dressmaker,  , 
etc.,  Misi  IVaUton,  Esplan-  | 
a<lo    Road ;    Laidlaw    and  i 
IVhiteway,  Esplanade ;  Bad- 
ham  and  Co. 

Missions,  etc.,  see  p.  10.    { 

Newspapers  :  There  are  \ 
two  leading  English  papers  , 
in  Bombay,  the  Times  of 
India  and  the  Bomi>ay  Gaz- 
ette, besides  a  nnmber  of 
native  papers.  The  Adm- 
cate  of  India  is  an  English 
evening  paper. 

Ooulist :  Dr.  Herbert. 

Opticians :  Uiwrence  and 
Mayo ;  Marcks  and  Co. — 
both  in  Esplanade  Road. 

Outfitters:  Badham  and 
Pile,  Limited:    Watson  and 
Co. ;  Laidlaw  and  Whiteway;  i 
Hoar     and      Co. — all      in  | 
Esplanade  Road. 

Photographers:  F.Ahrle,  ' 
Esplanade    Road  :     Bourne 
and    Shepherd,     Esplanade 
Road:  Taurines,  Meadow  St. 

Railways:  There  are  two 
lines  out  of  Bombay — 

(1)  The  Creat  Indian 
l^eninsida  lily,  (known  as 
the  G.  I.  P.)  from  Victoria 
sta.,  for  Calcutta,  Jhbbul- 
pore,  Allahabad,  Benares, 
Cnwnpore,  Lucknow,  Agra 
and  Delhi,  Indore,  Nagpur 
and  Poona,  Madras,  and  the 
south.     Express   trains  to 


Calcutta  via  Jubbulpore 
take  46  hrs.,  those  via  Nag- 
pur take  48  hrs. 

(2)  The  Bombay,  Baroda, 
arid  Central  liidia  lUy., 
for  Ahmedabad,  Kattywar, 
Rutlam,  Chitor  (for  Oodey- 
pore),  Ajmere,  Jeypore, 
Agra,  Delhi,  Lahore,  and  the 
north.  Travellers  stopping 
in  or  near  the  Fort,  may 
start  from  Church  Gat€  St. 
sta.  or  ftrom  Colaba.  Those 
at  Malabar  Hill  or  BycuUa, 
from  Grant  Road  sta. 

Steamship  Agencies  : 
Peninsular  db  Oriental  S.S. 
Co.,  8  Rampart  Row. 
Steamers  every  week  to 
Aden,  Ismailia,  Port  Said, 
Brindisi,  Malta,  Gibraltar, 
Plymouth,  and  London ; 
and  every  fortnight  to 
Venice,  Marseilles,  Colombo, 
Madras,  Calcutta,  Straits 
Settlements,  China,  Japan, 
and  Australia. 

British  India  S.N.  Co., 
Mackinnon,  Mackenzie  and 
Co.,  Green  St.,  for  Calcutta, 
and  coast  ports,  Karachi, 
Persian  Gulf,  Burma,  and 
E.  Coast  of  Africa. 

Hall  Line,  Edward  Bates 
and  Co.,  Elpbinstone  Circle. 

Clan  Line,  Finlay,  Muir 
and  Co. 

Messageries  Maritimes,  29 
Esplanade  Road. 

Nav.  Gtn.  Italiana,  Florio, 
and  Bubattino  UnitedCos.,  F. 
C.  Barbaro,  Sassoon  House. 

Atistro- Hungarian  Lloyd's 
S.  X.  Co.,  H.  von  HofTer,  50 
Church  Gate  St. 

Wilson  Line  of  Steamers, 
Finlay,  Muir,  and  Co.,  Com- 
mercial Road.  To  Karachi, 
Middlesbro'  or  Hull  every 
fortnight. 

Anchor  Line  of  Steamers, 
W.  and  A.  Graham  and  Co., 
Graham's  Buildings  ;  and 
T.  Cook  and  Son. 

Stores :  Army  and  Navy, 
Apollo  Bandar,  convenient, 
well  supplied  (branch  of  the 
London  establishment). 

Theatres:  The  Gaiety  and 
the  Novelty,  near  the  Victoria 
sta.  at  the  S.  end  of  Esplan- 
ade Market  Road,  and  the 
Native  Theatre  in  Grant  Rd. 

Tourist  Office:  Messrs. 
T.  Cook  and  Son,  opposite 
Esplanade  H.,  are  also 
agents  for  rly.  tickets  and 
all  kinds  of  infoi-mation  in 
connection  with  excursions 
and  tours  (e.g.  to  Blephanta 
and    Kanhari).       "Cook's 


Indian  Tours,"  a  pamphlet 
(Is.),  containing  full  infor- 
mation about  tours,  price  of 
tickets,  etc.,  will  be  found 
very  useful. 

Tramways  run  from  end 
to  end  of  Bombay,  and  ex- 
tend ftx)m  Colaba  and  the 
Fort  to  Grant  Roadj  to  Par- 
ell,  and  to  the  Docks. 

Wine  Merchants:  Phip- 
son  and  Co.  ;  Treacher  and 
Co.,  and  Bolton  and  Co.— aH 
in  Esplanade  Road. 

BOR  GHAT,  320. 

BORIVLI,  22,  23,  104. 

BORPANI,  D.B.,  274. 

BOSTAN  (R).,  235. 

BOWRINGPET,  376 
See  Kolar  Gold  Fields. 

BOTAD,  153. 

BBAHliAPUTRA      RIVER, 
274. 

BREWERY   (R.)   (see   Naini 
Tal),  258. 

BRITISH   FRONTIER  (R,X 
352. 

BROACH,  107. 

D.B.  in  town.  Waiting 
Room  at  sta.    . 

BUDDH  GAYA,  49. 

BULRAMPUR,  249. 

BUNDELKUND  PROVINCB, 
00. 

BURCOOL,  353 

BURDWAN  (R.),  51. 
Kellner's  H. 

BTTRHANPUR,  34. 

D.B.     ill     city    (Barrack 

E  Square),  poor. 
UTTALE,  R.H.,  461. 
UXAR  (R.),  47. 
D.B.  near  Fort.    HoteL 

C. 

CACHAR,  276. 

CALCUTTA,  52. 

Hotels:  The  Grand  H. 
good,  H.  Continental,  both 
in  Chowringhee;  T?ie  Grtat 
Eastern  H.,  Spencers  H. 
moderate,  H.  de  Part*  (Bon- 
sard^s),  Dhurrumtolla. 

Boarding  -  Houses  are 
numerous,  and  are  often 
preferred  to  hotels,  especi- 
ally for  a  lengthened  stay 
in  Calcutta.  The  approxi- 
mate charges  are  150  ra. 
a  month,  or  5  rs.  a  day,  for 
board  and  lodghig  (wine  not 
included).  In  tiwe  heip^t  of 
the  season,  about  Chitet- 
mas  time,  charges  some- 
times run  up  to  8  rsw  and 
10  rs.  a  day.  Meals  are 
taken  together  as  a  nBe, 
but  in  some  houses 


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INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


469 


or  single  rooms  may  be  en- 
gaged, with  meals  served  in 
private. 

Boarding  Houses:  Mrs. 
WaZUr'8,  6-9  Russell  Street, 
is  recommended;  Urs.PelVs, 
1  Little  Russell  Street,  9 
Hiddleton  Row ;  Mrs. 
Monk's,  11  Middleton  Row, 
15  Chowringhee,  13  Theatre 
Road  ;  Mrs.  Day's,  1  Theatre 
Road,  15  Chowringhee ;  Mrs. 
Baily,  10  Middleton  Row. 

Restaurant  and  Con- 
fectioners: PelUi,  10  Es. 
planade,  E. ;  Gt.  Eastern  H, 

Bankers  and  Agents: 
Gillanders,  Arbuthnot,  and 
Co.,CliveSt. 

Gri^idlay  and  Co., .  Hast- 
ings St. 

King,  Hamilton  and  Co. 
(Branch  of  Henry  S.  King 
and  Co.,  05  Comhill), 
undertake  all  business  in 
connection  with  travelling 
and  financial  arrangements 
for  travellers  In  India. 

T.  Cook  and  Son,  11  Old 
€ourt  House  Street,  supply 
all  kinds  of  information 
about  excursions  and  tours 
in  India,  and  provide  circu- 
lar tickets,  etc. 

Banks:  Bank  of  Bengal,  3 
Strand;  Agra  B.,  Mangoe 
Lane;  Ch.  Bk.  of  India,  Aus- 
tralia and  ChiTui,  5  Council 
House  St. ;  Meiv.  Bk.  of 
India,  Limtd.,  28  Dalhousie 
Sq. ;  Delhi  and  London  Bk., 
4  Council  House  St. ;  Hong- 
Kong  and  Shanghai  Bkng. 
Corpor.,  Dalhousie  Sq. ; 
National  Bk.  of  India, 
Council  House  St. 

Bath  :  An  excellent 
Swimming  Bath  on  the  Es- 
planade, admission  through 
members. 

Booksellers  and  Sta- 
tioners :  Thacker,  Spink, 
and  Co.,  Government  Place ; 
the  best  in  India,  and  ex- 
cellent. W.  Neimnan  and 
Co..  Dalhousie  Sq. 

Chemists  :  R.  Scott  Thom- 
son and  Co.,  15  Govern- 
ment Place,  B. ;  Bathgate 
and  Co.,  Old  Court  House 
St. ;  Smith  Stanistreet,  Dal- 
housie Sq. 

Churches:  (AyoLiCAyy— 
St.  Paul's  Cathedral:  St. 
John's  Church,  formerly  the 
cathedral ;  The  Old  Church 
(C.M.8.);.S<.  Peter's,  in  the 
Fort;  St.  Thomas's  (the  Free 
School  Church). 

{Ceurcb  of  Scotland)— 
St.  Andrew's,  Dalhousie  Sqr., 


U.F.  Church  ofScotland,We\- 
lesley  Sq.,  Manse,  Park 'St. 

Nonconformist:  Thelfe*. 
leyan  Church;  the  Baptist 
Chapel,  Lai  Bazar  and  Cir- 
cular Road;  Congregational 
Union  C/MipKZ,Dhurrumtolla 
&  Hastings ;  A'lnerican  Meth. 
Episcopal,  Dhurrumtolla. 

Clubs  (Miscellaneous) : 
India  Club,  67  Bankshall  St. 

New  Club,  46  Park  St 

Saturday  Club,  Wood  St. 
For  games  and  amusements. 
Ladies  can  become  members 
as  well  as  men. 

Golf  Club,  established  1829. 
Links  on  the  Maidan:  there 
are  two  courses  of  9  holes 
each. 

Clubs  (Residential):  Ben- 
gal Club,  33  Chowringhee 
Road,  S.  side  of  Esplanade. 
The  houses,  1  Park  St.,  and 
1  and  5  Russell  St. ,  are  fitted 
as  chambers  for  residents ; 
33  Chowringhee  Road,  con- 
tains bedrooms  for  members. 
The  Club-housewas  formerly 
the  residence  of  Mr.  T.  B. 
(afterwards  Lord)  Macaulay. 
Members  of  this  Club  are 
hon.  members  of  the  Madras, 
Byculla,'  Hong-Kong,  and 
Shanghai  Clubs,  &  vice  versa. 

The  United  Service  Club, 
81  Chowringhee  Road.  At- 
tached to  it  are  th  e  houses  1 , 2 
and  3  Kyd  St.  and  56  Park  St. 

German  Club,  40  Free 
School  St. 

Consuls :  American,  8 
Esplanade  Row,  E. 

Conveyances:  Carriages 
can  be  hired  at  from  5  to  10  rs. 
a  day.  Cabs  (commonly 
called  ticca  garis)  are  plenti- 
ful, charges  moderate. 

Dentists:  Afr.  Woods, 
25  Chowringhee  Road;  J. 
Miller,  85  Chowringhee 
Road ;  Watson,  Wellesley  PI. 

Drapers:  Francis  Ramsay 
&  Co.,Govt.  PI. ;  Fraii\xAs  Har- 
rison, Hathaway  db  Co.,  Govt, 
PI. :  Whiteway  A  Laidlaw, 
Chowringhee  ;  Moore  dt  Co., 
Esplanade;  Phelps  A  Co. 
Old  Court  House  St. 

Jewellers,  SUversmitlis, 
and  Wat(dmiakers :  Hckmil- 
ton  ami  Co.,  Old  Court 
House  St. ;  Cooke  and  Kelvey, 
Old  Court  House  St. ;  Boseck 
antd  Co.,  Wellesley  PL 

Lady  Doctors :  Miss 
BaunUer,  15  Chowringee. 

Medioal  Men:  Dr.  A. 
Crombie,  47  Park  St. ;  Dr. 
C.  H.  Joubertf  6  Harriugton 
St. ;    Dr.  Charles,   7   Park 


St. ;  Dr.  R.  C.  Samlers, 
36  Chowringhee  Road ;  Dr. 
Coulter,  Dr.  A,  Caddy,  2^ 
Harrington  St. ;  Dr.  E.  F. 
Greenhill,  3  Russell  St. 

Missions :  Oxford  Mission, 
42  Cornwallis  Street.  The 
clergy  hav^  charge  of  a  Boys' 
High  School,  an  Industrial 
School  for  Natives,  and  St. 
James's  School  for  Eurasians 
—all  in  the  town;  and  of 
village  schools  in  the  Simder- 
ban,  3  m.  ott".  The  Superior 
is  Principal  of  Bishop's 
College,  Circular  Roatl. 

S.P.G.  224  Lower  Civcu- 
lar  Road. 

Tlie  Clewer  Sisters,  work- 
ing since  1881,  nurae  the 
General  Hospital,  Medical 
Stafl"  Hospital,  and  Eden 
Hospital ;  and  have  charge 
of  the  Canning  Home  for 
Nurses,  European  Girls' 
Orphanage,  and  Pratt  Me- 
morial School.  In  1890  they 
took  over  from  the  Ladies' 
Assocn.  {S.P.G.)  their  work 
in  the  rice-fields. 

C.M.S.,  10  Mission  Row, 
Divinity  School  ;  Old 
Church  ;  Trinity  Church  ; 
and  Christ  Church,  Boys' 
and  Girls'  Schools. 

Church  of  Scotland,  Corn- 
wallis Square. 

U.F.  Church  of  Scotland,  2 
Cornwallis  Square. 

Baptist  Mission  Society,  42 
Lower  Circular  Road. 

Native  Booksellers:  S. 
K.  Lahiri  o/nd  Co.,  54  Col- 
lege Street ;  Shambhu  Chwn- 
drrt -4 ddy,  Wellington  Street. 
Newspapers:  TheEnglish- 
man,  9Hai'e  St.,  the  leading 
paper  in  Bengal ;  Indian 
Dy.  News,  19  British  Indian 
St. ;  Statesman,  8  Clio  wring 
bee  Road ;  The  Asian  and 
The  Itidian  Planters'  Gaz., 
both  devoted  to  sport  and 
planting  interests.  The  lead- 
ing Native  papers  in  Eng- 
lish are — The  Hindu  Patriot, 
Indian  Mirror,  A  mrita  Bazar 
Patrika. 

Opticians:  Latorenceand 
Mayo ;  Solomoyis  and  Co. ;  N. 
Lazarus. 

Outfitters :  Gt.  Eastern 
Hotel  Co.;  Ramsay,  Walcefield 
and  Co. ;  If  hiteway,  I/xidlaw 
and  Co. ,  7  Esplanade,  East. 
FliOtOgrapherS :  Johnston 
and  Hojfmann,  22  Chowring- 
hee Rd. ;  Bourne  and  Shep- 
lierd,  8  Chowringhee  Road. 
Photographio  Appara- 
tus: W.  Newman  and  Co. 


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470 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


Dalhonsie  Sq.,  John  Bteet^  2 
Hare  St. 

Railways:  The  E.I.R. 
Sta.  at  Hovrrah,  for  Bombay 
via  Jabalpur,  Delhi,  Agra, 
etc.  The  Eastern  Bengal  B. 
Sta.  at  Sealdah,  for  Darjee- 
ling,  Dacca,  and  places  in 
Assam.  There  are  two  lines 
to  Bombay.  That  by  Jabal- 
pur takes  46  hrs.,  and 
that  by  Nagpur  48  hrs. 
There  is  now  direct  com- 
munvcation  between  Cal- 
cutta and  Madras  by  the 
East  Coast  Railway. 

Societies :  Cha  hit  a  bls 
A  XD  Religio  p& —Besides 
the  above-mentioned  Socie- 
ties, the  following  have  their 
Indian  headqnartei"s  in  Cal- 
cutta—T/j  6  Additional  Clergy 
Socty.  ;  The  Methodist  E-pisco- 
ynil  Missioti;  The  London 
Missionary  Socty.;  The  Wes- 
leyan  Missions;  several 
8i)ecial  Zenana  Missions. 

Scientific^  etc.  —  The 
Atiatic  Society,  Park  Street, 
founded  by  Sir  William 
J  ( >  1 1  es ;  The  Microscopica  I 
Soc. ;  The  Photographic  Soc. 
have  rooms  in  the  same 
building;  Geology^  Ethnologji, 
Mineralogy,  Natural  His- 
tory, Archaeology ,  are  well 
represented  in  the  Indian 
Museum  in  Chowringhee  Rd. 

Steamship  Agencies 
(General) : 

P.  &  0.  S.  N.  Co.,  Supt., 
B.  Trelawny,  19  Strand. 
Steamers  every  fortnight 
for  Colombo,  Aden,  Ismaiua, 
Port  Said.  Marseilles,  Ply- 
mouth, and  I^ndon ;  also  for 
Bombay,  China,  JaiMin,  Aus- 
tralia, etc.  Special  attention 
is  calletl  to  the  second  saloon 
accommodation  of  this  Com- 
pany's steamers,  and  the  im- 
proved arrangements  for  the 
comfort  of  passengers  by 
that  class. 

British  India  S.  N.  Co., 
Mackinnon,  Mackenzie  and 
Co.,  16  Strand,  for  London, 
Colombo,  coast  ports,  Kar- 
aclii,  Persian  GiUf,  Burma. 
Straits  Settlements,  and 
Australia  via  Torres  Straits. 

City  Line  o/S.S.,  Gladstone, 
Wyllie  and  Co.,  Clive  St. 

Clan  Line  Steamers,  Finlay, 
Muir  and  Co.,  Clive  Street, 
2d  class  accommodation 
specially  good. 

Messageries  Maritimes,  19 
Strand. 

Aiistro- Hungarian  Lloyd's 


S.  N.  Co.,  D.  Sauoon  and  Co., 
Clive  St. 

Anchor  Line,  Gnihatn  and 
Co.,  9  Clive  St. 
Steamsliip  Affenoies  (Local) : 

Rivers,  ^av.  Co.,  MacneUl 
and  Co. 

Orissa  Carrying  Company's 
Steamers,  Macneill  and  Co., 

g lying  between  Calcutta  and 
ihandbally. 

Asiatic  S.  N.  Co.,  Turner, 
Morrison  and  Co.,  6  Lyon's 
Range,  excellent,  accommo- 
dation for  1st  class,  2d  class, 
and  deck  (natives)  passen- 
gers. 

Anglo  -  iTuiian  Carrying 
Co.,  Baltner,  Lavrrie  and  Co. 
(proprietors),  packages,  bag- 
gage, etc.,  to  or  from  Eng- 
land. 

Tailors :  Ranken  and  Co. ; 
Ramsay,  Wakefield  and  Co. ; 
Harry  Clark ;  W.  H.  Phelps 
and  Go. ;  Harmnn  and  Co. ; 
Radham  Bros.,  all  in  Old 
Court  House  St. 

Theatres:  Tiie  Corinth- 
ian, ■  DhnrrumtoUa ;  The 
Royal,  Chowringhee  :  Road ; 
The  Opera  House,  Lindsay 
St.  Native  Theatres  are 
chiefly  in  Beadon'St. 

CALICUT,  367. 

Hotel:  Mr.  P.  Canaren's 
H.,  on  the  Beach.  Good 
D.B. 

Steamship         Agents : 
B.LS.N.  Co. 
GAMBAY,  110. 
CAMPOLI,  319. 
OANNANORE,  366. 

D.B.  good. 
CASHMERE,  208,  211,  215. 
(See  Srinagar). 

CASTLE  ROCK  (R.),  301. 

CAUVERY  FALLS,  379. 

Dak  Bullocks  on  previous 
notice  to  Dep.  Commis- 
sioner of  Bangalore  District. 

OAWNPORB,  260  (R,  good). 

Hotels:  Civil  and  Mili- 
tary, good  :  the  best ;  Em- 
press H.,  Victoria  //.,  KeU- 
ner's  Refreshnwiit  Rooms. 

Olnh:  Cawujpore  C,  Mall. 

Missions :  the  S.P.G. 
(Mission  House,  Christ 
Church)  have  charge  of 
Clirist  Church  School, 
Genei-alganj  School,  and  a 
Girls'  Boarding  School. 

The  Lailies'  Association 
(S.P.G.),  have  6  schools  and 
work  in  the  zenanas. 

CHADIYANTALAWA,  462. 


CHAGOTI,  D.B.,  217 
CHAIBASA,  78. 
CHAKARDARPUR,  78. 
CHAKRATA,  D.B.,  257. 
CHALISGAON,  71. 
CHAMAN,  236. 
CHAMBA,  D3.,  199. 
CHAMPA,  77. 
CHAMPANIR,  109,  110. 
CHAMUNDI  HILL,  386. 
GHANDA,     D.B.,     line     to 
Warangal  in  progress,  74. 

CHANDAUSI  (R.),  289, 

OHANDERNAGORE,  51,  65. 
Two  Hotels  in  Fort. 

CHANDIL,  78. 

CHANDNI,  34. 

CHANDOD,  109. 

CHANDPUR,  277 

CHANDRAGIRI,  335,  362. 

CHANGAS  SERAI,  D.B.,  220. 

CHANROYAPATNA,  362. 

CHAPPA  RIFT,  236. 

CHATACK,  D.B.,  277. 

CHATRAPUR,  353. 

CHATTISGARH,  77, 

CHAVAKACHCHERI,    B.H. 
good,  458. 

CHAYA,  164. 

CHENKALEDI,  R.H.,  448. 

CHEPAL,  257. 

CHERAT,  D.B.,  213. 

OHERBA-PUNJI,  277. 

D.B.  coiaiuodions,  with 
servants. 

Pony  Tonga  Service  (each 
seat,  80  rs.)  to  Shillong ;  48 
hrs.  notice  to  manager  at 
Shillong. 

CHICACOLE,  353 

CHIDAMBARAM,  896. 

D.B.  1^  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

CHILAW,  R.H.  good,  454. 

CHILIANWALA,  209. 

CHILKA  LAKE,  363 

CHINCHWAD,  324. 

CHINDWIN,  489. 

CHINGLEPUT  (R.)  D.B.good, 
392. 

CHINSURAH,  64. 

OHITOR,  82. 

D.B.  1  m.  i^om  rly.  sta., 
belonging  to  Oodeypore 
Raja,  good. 

For  ah  order  to  see  the 
fort,  and  for  the  use  of  an 
elephant,  a  week's  notice 
should  be  given  to  l^e 
Resident  at  Oodeypore, 

CHITTAGONG,  277 
CHITTAPUR,  346 
CHORAL,  80. 
CHOTA-NAGPUR,  78. 

Missions :  Beadquartsrs 
of  Trvnity  College  JhOlin 
Mim(mi  see  also  p.  78. 


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INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


471 


•OEK)WtfOOK,  221. 
CLIFTON,  233. 
OCXJANADA,  852. 

GOCHIN,  369. 

Hotel :  Family  H. ;  D.B. 
fair. 
OOIMBATORB,  D.B.,  887. 

OOLOUBO,  441. 

.  Hotels:  Grancl  Oriental 
B.  (usually  known  as  the 
O.O.H.),  one  of  the  best,  if 
not  the  best,  in  the  E. 

GqM%  Face  H.,  quieter  and 
in  apleas&ntersitoatlon  tban 
the  G.O.H.,  close  to  the  sea, 
a  little  more  than  1  m.  from 
the  landing-place.  There  is 
a  swimming  bath  attached 
to  the  hotel.  ^iHstol  Hotel, 
good. 

The  Graivd  Uotd  at  Motmt 
lavUhia,  2  hrs.  distant  by 
rail  from  Ck>lombo,  is  much 
frequented  by  visitors.  It 
is  delightfully  situated  on 
a  promontory  overlooking 
the  sea.    fl.  Bristol. 

Churches:  {Cathedral) 
— S.  Thomas,  Matwal ;  S. 
Peter\  The  Fort;  Chtist 
Church,  (C.M.S.);  Trinity 
Churchf  Maranda ;  S. 
Mickad's,  Polworih :  and 
others. 

(JJ.  a  Cathedral)— St. 
Lucia,  and  many  otliers. 

{Church  of  Scotland)— 
Si.  Andrew's^  The  Fort. 

{Nonconformist)  —  Was- 
leyan,  Pettah ;  Baptist, 
Cinnamon  Gardens.  Dutch 
Churcht  Wolfendahl,  and 
othelrs.    • 

Clubs :  tlie  Colombo  C.  on 
the  Galle  Face. 

Golf  C.  with  Tmks  on  the 
Galle  Face. 

Docd»>rs:  /.  B.  Spence:  A. 
D.  Murray;  J.  Rookioood. 

l^^Ush  Merchants, 
B6ok86Q,ers,  iStaldoners, 
©t<J. :  M.  W.  Cave  arid  Co. 
(also  agents  for  Henry  S. 
king  and  Co.,  London). 

General  Outfitters :  Car- 
gill. 

Ivories,  XortoisesbeU 
Jewellery,  Moon -stones^ 
etc. :  D.  F.  de  Silva,  Chat- 
ham St. 

Missions  :    S.P.G.,     St. 

Thomas's  College  ;  C.M.S., 

Galle  Face ;  Cbvist  Ohuroh  ; 

..§*,    Luke's     and    several 

schools. 

E.  Grimtead  Sisters  (Mis- 
sion  House  t^  Pol  watte), 
Sive  ^^fifi  of  schools  and 
i^nana^e,  and  undertake 


Private  Nursins^in  any  part 
of  the  island. 
Steamship  Agencies : 
P.  &  0.  S.  N.  Co.,  office 
opposite  the  G.O.H.  Agent, 
F.Bayley.  Fortnightly  mail 
service  to  and  from  London, 
the  Continent,  and  Sydney, 
stopping  at  all  the  chief 
ports;  fortnightly  service 
also  to  Bombay,  Calcutta, 
Straits  Settlements,  China, 
and  Japan. 

Orient  Line.  Agent,  Whit- 
tall  and  Co.  Fortnightly 
mail  service  to  and  from 
London  and  Sydney,  stop- 
ping at  all  chief  ports. 

British  India  S.  N.  Co. 
Agents,  Alston,  Scott,  and 
Co.  Fortnightly  service  to 
and  from  London ;  weekly  to 
Calcutta,  Bombay,  and 
Madras. 

ClanlAihe.  i^grente,  Aitken, 
Spence,  and  Co. 

Anchor  Line.   Agents,  Del- 
mege,  Reid,  and  Co. 
COMILLA,  277 
COMPANYGANJ,  277. 
CONJEVERAM,  392. 

No  D.B.  here,  but  good 
waiting  room  at  sta.    Con- 
jeveram  can  be  visited  firom 
Cbinglepnt  or  Arkonam. 
OOONOOR  (R.),  388. 

Hotels:  DavidsorCs  H., 
Gray's  H.,  HUl  Grove  H.  (all 
good). 

For   tongas    see    Mettu- 
palaiyam. 
COORLA,  27. 
CORANADU,  397. 
OUDDALORE,  D.B.,  395. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B.LS.N.  Co.,  Parry  and  Co. 
CUDDAPAH  (R.),  D.B.,  334. 
CUMBUM  (R.),  358. 
OUTTAOK,  D.B.,  289,  363 
Club :  within   the    Fort 
enclosure. 

D. 

DABHBJI,  231. 
DABHOI,  108. 
DABO,  230. 
DABOK,  84. 

DAOGA,  275. 

D.B.  near  Church. 
Olub :  Dacca  C. 
DAKOR,  110. 
DALHOUSIE,  199. 

Hotels:  Strawberry  Bank 
H.  (best).  Old  Dalhousie  H., 
Baits  Head  H. 


Between  Pathankot  and 
Dalhousie  it  is  most  con- 
venient to  sleep  at  the  D.B. 
Doneira. 

DAL  LAKE,  218. 
DAMAN  ROAD,  105. 

D.B.     beyond   town,    at 
mouth  of  river,  good. 
DAMBADENIYA,  444. 
DAMBEGULLA,  R.H.,  461. 
DAMBOOL,    R.H.   excellent. 

virtually  an  hotel,  455. 
DAM  DIM,  270 
DAMODAR  RIVER,  53. 
DAMOOKDEA,  270. 
DARJEELING,  271. 

Hotels :  Boscolo's  Grand 
H.  and  Woodlands  H.,  both 
good,  with  fine  views ; 
RockviUe  H.  (Mrs.  Monk) 
open  all)  the  year,  good  ; 
Grand  H.  Drum  Druid,  the 
Mall ;  Darjeeling  H. 

Boarding  Houses:  Ada 
Villa,  Rose  Bank,  Gresham 
House. 

Club :  Darjeeling  C. ,  Auck- 
land Road. 
DATAR  PEAK,  160. 
DATD^,  102. 
DAULATABAD,  68. 

Station   for   Ellora;    see 
Ellora  in  index. 
DEBARI,  for  Oodeypur,  84. 
DEDUR,  R.H.,  221. 
DEDURA  OYA,  454. 
DEESA,  D.B.,  119. 
DEHRA  DUN  or  DOON,  p.B., 
256. 
Hotel:  Victoria  H. 
Club :  Dehra  Doon  C. 
Rly.    in     contemplation 
.from  Hard  war. 
DELHI.  132. 

Kellner's  Refreshvient  and 
Sleeping  Rooms  in  the  rly. 
sta.;  chota-hazri  seived  in 
bedrooms;  other  meals  in 
the  refreshment  room 
below ;  good  cuisine  (write 
beforehand.) 

Hotels:  MetropoliUm  H. 
(Maiden  Bros.,  managers), 
near  St.  James'  Church,  the 
best ;  Grand  H.,  close  to  the 
rly.  sta.  (Mrs.  Culverhouse), 
well  spoken  of;  Laurie's  //., 
outside  the  city";  Ludlow 
Castle  H.,  near  tlM  Ridge. 

Dealer  in  Indian  Qnrios : 
S.  J.  TelUry,  riot  far  from 
the  Cashmere  Gate. 

Merchants :  Shawls,  Em- 
broideries in  gold  and  silver  i 
Motee  Rap.,  Chandni  Clu^lk, 
near  Museum. 


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INDEX  AND  WBECTORY 


DEOaAON,  D.B.,  65. 

A  good  place  to  break  the 
loug  drive  from  Nandgaon 
to  Roza  for  the  Ellora  caves. 
The  tonga  service  is  not 
good. 

DBOLALI,  28. 

DERA  GHAZI  KHAN,  224. 

DERA  ISMAIL  KHAK,  D.B., 

213,  222r 
DBWAL,  D.B.,  good,  217. 
DHANASI,  238, 
DEAR,  80. 
DHARAMSALA,  D.B.,  290. 

DHARMPUR,  IJK). 

D.B.  good. 
DHARWAR  (R.),  D.B.,  317. 
DHOLA  (R.),  153. 
DHOLPUR  (R.),  92. 
DHOND  (R.),  D.B.,  830. 

DHONE,  D.B.,  858. 

Starting  point  for  Kur- 
nool,  33  m.  distant.  Carts, 
bullocks,  and  pony  transits 
procurable. 

DHORAJI,  164. 

DHUBRI,  D.B.,  274. 

Hotel:  DhuhriH. 
DIAMOND  HARBOUR,  5&. 

DIBRUGARH.D.B.,  274. 
Club :  Dibrugarh  C. 
DICKOTA,  446. 

DIGorDEEG,  185. 

The  Gopal  Bhawan  P&lace 

is  put  at   the  disposal   of 

strangers  (permission  must 
■  be  asked).    In  it  a  paper  of 

rules  is  hung  up  for  their 

benefit. 
DIKSAL,  330. 

DIKWELLA,  R.H.  good,  451, 

453. 
DILWARRA  TEMI^ES,  120. 
DIMBX7LA,  446. 

DINAPUR,  D.B.,  48. 

Kellner^    Refrethmeiit 
and  Retiring  Rooms. 
DINDIGAL  (R.),  404. 
DIRGI,  235. 
DOM,  293. 

DOMEL,  D.B.,  good,  217. 
DONDRA;  452. 

DONEIRA,    D.B„    fqr    Dal- 

housie,  q^.,  i9§..        1 1 
DONGAR  GAN,  D.B.,  880. 
DONOARaARH  (R.),  76. 


DORNA  KAL,  352 
DRAS,  219. 
DUBCHI.  220. 
DUDH  SAUGAR,  301. 
DULAl,  D.B.,  good,  217. 
DUM  DUM.  D.B.,  62. 
DUMMOW,  89. 
DUMPEP,  D.B.,  277. 
DWARKA,  164. 

.     B. 

EASTERN   NARA  CANAL, 
225. 

BISHMAKAM,  219 

EKIRIYANKUMBARA,  448. 

BKNELIGODA,  449. 

ELAHBRA,  455. 

ELEPHANT  PASS,  R.H.  in 
Old  Dutch  Fort,  458. 

ELEPHANTA  CAVES,  18. 

ELLORA  CAVES,  71. 

The  caves  are  now  most 
easily  reached  from  Daulata 
bad  sta.  (Trains  from  Mun 
mar  junc.  twice  daily.' 
Write  beforehand  to  NaS' 
seruangi,  Aurangabad  Fort, 
asking  him  to  send  a  tonga 
(15  rs.)  to  meet  ti-ain. 

Daulatabad  sta.  (no  Re 
freshment  Room)  is  10  m 
from  BUora.  A  tomb  at 
Rosa  (2  m.  from  the  caves, 
p.  69)  has  been  converted 
into  a  D.B.  A  week's  notice 
to  Mess  Secretary  at  Auran 
gabad  required  for  permis 
sion  to  occupy  it. 

ELLORB  (R.),  362 

BLPHINSTONE  POINT,  814. 

ENGLISH  BAZAR,  starting- 
place  for  Gaur,  267. 

Aocommodation  :  The 
magistrate's  permission 
should  be  obtained  before- 
hand to  occupy  the  Maldah 
Circuit-house,  which  is  a 
comfortable  building,  being 
fumislied  and  provided  with 
bedding,  linen,  crockery, 
cooking-utensils,  and  all  re- 

auisites,  in  charge  of  a  resi- 
ent  servant.  At  least  one 
servant  who  could  cook  and 
take  charge  of  baggage 
should  be  sent  on  before 
with  the  coolies  or  covered 
cart  containing  the  baggage. 
Horses  and  carriages  cannot 
be  hired.  The  traveller 
must  bring  his  pi"ovt«rtons 
with  him. 

BRAOOR,  R.H.,  448. 

ERODE  June,  (for  Trioliino- 
poly),  (R.),  38r. 

Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation at  the  rly.  sta,. 


ETAMPITIYA,     R.H.     Otm- 

fortable,  447. 
ETAWAH  (R.),  260. 

D.B.  i  m.  firom  rly.  sta. 
EVEREST,  MOUNT,  271. 

F. 

FALSE  POINT,  277,  290. 
Steamship         Agents'. 

B.I.S.N.  Co.,  C.  M.  Binny. 
FARDAPUR,  D.B.,  in  a  rain- 

ous  condition,  31. 

PATBHABAD  (R-X  81- 
FATEHPUR-SIKRI,  177. 

D.B.  in   the  old  Reocod 
Office  (see  plan). 
PAZILKA,  166. 
FEGU,  D.B.,  257. 
FENCHUGANJ,  276. 
FBROZEPUR  (B.),  166, 196. 

D.B.  neai*  Dep.  Gomais- 
sioner's  Cutcherry. 
FEROZBSHAH,  166,  196. 
PORT  ST.  DAVID,  396. 
FRENCH  ROCKS,  380. 
FULLERS  CAMP,  235. 
FULTA,  53. 

FUTTEHPORB,  D.B.,  256. 
FYZABAD  (R.),  248. 

D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 

Graham's  H. 

Ajodhyay  the  Jerusalem  of 
Hinduism,  is  4  m.  distant 

O. 

GADAG  (R.),  815,  853. 

D.B.  i  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

GADARWARA,  R.H.>  85. 

GADR  ARRAN,  215. 

GAGANGAIR,  219 

GALGB,  462. 

GALLE,  452. 

Hotel  :  Pei^itisidar  i 
Oriental  if.,  fairly  comfort- 
Hble. 

SteamsUp  A^^SI^g^: 
Clan  Liney  Clark,  Speiice  ^ 
Co. ;  British  India  S.^T.  Co., 
and  Anchw  Line,  Belme^ 
Reid  and  Co, 

GALTA,  128. 

GAMB&R,  ^1.  V. 

GANETBRBi^,  210.  - 

GAMPOLA,  445. 
HoteL 

ganjam,  353     ■  ; 

GARHI,  D.B^  good,  117, 
GARHI  HABIBULIiA,  D.I., 

221. 
GARPOS,  77. 
GAUBLATL  0.B„  274; 

Daily  Pony  Tott^  9erf|ee 


d  by  Google 


miyiSX  AND  DIRECTORY 


473 


,  at  6  A.M.  or  not  later  than  9 
A.M.,  to  Shillong.  Rates  for 
each  seat  25  rs.,  15  seers 
of  luggage  free.  Ordinary 
bullock    train    service    to 

1  Shillong,  daUy.  Write 
to  Manx^^er,  Gauluiti  and 
Shillong  Transit  Serrice, 
C^auhati. 

G-AUR,  267. 

(See  English  Bazar.) 

GAYA,  D.B.,  49, 

GERSOPPA,  D,B.,  26,  364. 

GHARO,  232. 

GHAZIABAD,  193,  257. 

Waiting  and  Refresh- 
ment Rooms  at  rly.  sta. 
with  sleeping  accommoda- 
tion. 

GHAZl  GHAT,  222,  224. 
GIDU  BANDAR,  228. 
GILOIT,  220. 
GILIMALE,  449. 

Good  accommodation  and 
water. 

GINCH  FORT,  393. 
GIR,  156. 
GIRIDIH,-60. 
GIRITELLA  LAKE,  459. 
GIRNAR,  157. 
OCA,  302. 

Hotels:  Gomes' H., Crescent 
H. 

Steamship  Agents : 
B.I. S.N'.  Co.,  L.  S.  Ribeiro. 

GOALPARA,  D.R,  274. 

GOALUNDO  GHAT,  2^5. 
Steamers  (comfortable), 
daily  mail  service  to  Naraln* 

GODAVBRY,  352 
GODHRA,  110. 
GOGA  GATE,  108. 
GOKAK  ROAD  (Ri),  299^  ' 
GOKUL,  184. 
GOLAGHAT,  274. 
GOLlCONDA,  849. 
GOOKD,  219. 
GOONDA,  249. 
GONDAIi,  164.     .. 

There  are  a  good  Guest 

House  and  D.B.,  jboth.  ooni- 

fortaWy  lorBished^ 
GOPALPUR,  368 
GOOTY  (R.),  894. 

G0RE6A0N,  25. 

Sta.  for  Jogeshwar  Oavfea. 

OOVAR0«AN,  m      .: 


GUJRANWALA   (EL),    D.B., 
207. 

D.B.  close  to  sta.,  poor. 
No  Gabs  to  be  had. 

OUJRAT,  b.B.,  209. 

GULISTAN,  236. 

GULMABG,  219. 

Hotel :  Neddu's  is  the  only 
H.,  fair.  Visitors,  as  a  rule, 
take  up  their  quarters  in 
wooden  huts  profcurable  at 
a  small  renfc  from  the  State, 
or  in  tents; 

GUMLIH,  164. 

GUNTAKAL  (R.X  334. 

GUNTUR,  858. 

GUZE.RAT,  Province  of,  109. 
Do.      Capital  Of  (Alnned- 
abad).  111. 

GWAUOR  (R.),  92. 

D.B.  very  poor,  at  rly.  sta. 

The  Musafir  ELhana,  l  m. 
from  the  rly.  sta.  is  a  hand- 
some, well-furnished  house 
built  for  the  friends  of  the 
Maharajah,  and  persons  of 
distinction  recommended  by 
the  Resident.  It  is  neces- 
sary for  such  persona  to 
write  beforehand  to  the 
"Officer  in  charge"  to 
obtain  permission  to  occupy 
rooms  there,  and  also  to  in- 
suie  accommodation,  as  it  is 
frequently  full. 

Gaol  Carpets,  etc.  made 
to  order,  reasonable  price, 
good  work. 


H. 

HABARANB,  R.H.,  459. 

HAKGALLA,  447. 

HALDAMULLA,  450. 

R.H.  iudifferent,  but  good 
club,  to  which  access  is  easy. 

HAMBANTOTTA,  B.H.,  453. 

HAMltfONCONDAH,  852. 

HAMPI  (Vijayanagar),  363. 
(The  Rly.  fcjta*  for  OH^mpi 
is  Hospet.)  .      .     ' 

D.B.  at  Kanialapur.  Tli^ 
fee  for  its  use  is  1  r.  per 
diem  (1  r.  "8  for  a  married 
couple),  and  the  visitor  must 
iriake  his  own  arrangements 
about  food.  Mosquito  cur- 
tains should  be  brought. 
There  is  a  Peon  in  charge  of 
the  i-ooms,  wJio  will  act  as 
guide  for  a  small  fee. 

HANSI,  D.B.,  165. 


HANWBLLA,  R.H.  good,  44^ 
HAPUTALE,  P.H.,  446,  450. 
HARAPA,  222. 
HARDA,  34. 

•    D.B.  8  minutes'  walk  from 

rly.  sta.,  good. 
HARDOI  (R.),  289. 

■    D.B.  close  to  sta. 

HARDWAR,  238,  254. 

Rly.  in  contemplation  to 
Dehra  Doon. 

HARIHAR  (R.),  360. 
HARIPUR,  D.B.,  123,  221. 
HARNAI,  D.B.,  235. 

Bullock  Dhumnior  Tonga 
available. 
HARWAN,  217. 
HASAN  ABDAL,  D.B.,  212. 
HATHRAS  (R.),  D.B.,  259. 
HATTI,  217 

HATTON,  446. 

Adam's  Peak  Hotel. 
HENARATGODA,  443. 
HBNZADA,  488. 

HERAMITIPANA,  450. 

Lodgings  to   be   had  at 
large  Pilgrim  Bungalow. 

HIKKADUWA,  R.H,  452. 
HINGANGHAT,  D.B.,  74. 
HINGOLI,  74. 
HIRPUR,  RwH,  220. 
mSSAR  (R.),  D.B.,  166. 
HONAWAR,  364. 

HOOOHLY,  61,  63.     . 
Hotel :  Chirmurdk  B. 

HOOKEYTOLLAH,  D.B. ,  277 

HORANA,  R.H.,  461. 

HOROWAPOTANE,      R.H., 
455. 

HORTON  PLAtNS,  446,  450. 

HOSHANGABAD,  D.B.,  86. 

HOSPET  (R,),  D.B.,  363. 
Rly.  Sta.  for  flampi. 

HOTGI  (R.),  804,  882. 
HOWRAH  (See  also  OaUmtta), 

63.     _       . 
HUB    RIYER^  226.     Murtid 

Kha^9  B%mgalo%»^  11  niiles 

past  ICagar  Pir  (provisioi)s 

must  be  taken). 
HUB  LI  (R.),  817,  860. 
HULI,  80L 

HULIKAL  FORT,  889 
HULLABID,  36U 
HUMMA,858. 


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474 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


HTDERABAD  (Cashmere), 

D.B.,  22L 
HTDERABAD  (Deccan),  (R.), 
345. 

Hotel:    Cosmopolitan  H. 
(1896).    See  SecuiwUmihad. 
Bank  of  Bengal. 
HTDERABAD  (Sind),  228. 
D.B.  good  in  Cantonment 
close  to  the  Tennis  Court 
and  Svyimming  BtUk. 

MlBSloliB :  C.M.S.,  Church 
and  Schools. 


1, 

IGATPUBI(B.),  28. 
D.B.  it  m.  ft>om  sta. 

Church  (Anglican). 

Railway  Ixutttute. 
INDORB,  D.B.,  80. 
INDRA-BETTA  HILL,  362. 
IRAMPAIKKULUM,     R.H., 

458. 
IRANAMADU,    B.H.,   good. 

458. 
IRRAKAMAM,  462. 
'ISAPUR  HILL-FORT,  323. 
ISLAMABAD,  219. 
ITARSI,  34,  86. 

D.B.,  (R.),   and   waiting 

rooms  at  rly.  sta. 


J. 

JABALPUR  (R.),  35. 

Hotel :  Jackson's  H.  good. 
This  is  the  staUtm  for  the 
Marble  Rocks  (p.  35). 

JAOOBABAD,  234. 

D.B.  at  Wan  Bodhattun, 
\  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

JABLA,  R.H.»  454. 

3AinHK  {Jaffnapatam)f  469. 

JAOANNATlH  (see  Pun). 

JAIPUR  (see  Jeypore). 

JAITPUR,  102- 

Dharmsala  comfortable. 

JAJPUR,  290. 

JAKO  HILL,  191. 

JALAMB,  74. 

JALARPBT  June,  (for  Banga- 
lore), (R.)r  376* 

JALPAIGURI  (B.),  D.B.,  270. 

JAMALPORB,  269. 

Kellner'8  RetreBhment 
and  RettriBg  Roobis  at  sta. 

JAMGAL,  362. 

JAMRX7D,  D.B.,  ^14. 

JARAPANl,  256. 

JATRAPUR,  273. 

JAUNPUR  (R.),  260. 

D.B.  close  to  Police  Lines. 


JELAPAHAR,  271. 
JBTALSAR  (B.),  155,  164. 
JEYPORE  (R.),  127 

Hotel :  Rustom  Family  H. 
(best).  The  proprietor  will, 
if  necessary,  make  arrange- 
ments for  elephants  for 
visitors  (if  they  are  to  be 
obtained),  'or  for  ton^s, 
bullock  ekkas,  or  -poaies, 
for  tiie  excursion  to  Amber. 
Kaiser-i'HiTid  H. 

Dealer  in  Silks,  Indian 
Curiosities,  eta ;  Zwtster 
and  Co.,  good  showrooms. 

School  of  Art,  also  good 
display,  woric  to  order. 

Scottish  Mission. 
JHANSI  (R-X  »0,  102. 

Hotels :  Nev)  Railxoay  H.  ; 
Micttaiui  Railway  H.  D.B. 
good.  Accommodation  also 
in  Rani  of  Jhanti's  Palaee. 
Write  beforehand  to  Dep. 
Oomm. 

Olnb :  Maun  Clvb. 
JHAR8UGUDA,  77 
JHBLUM  (R.),  209,  216. 

D.B.  In  cantonment. 
JODHPUR,  D.B.  \2\. 
JOGESHWAR  GAVE,  25. 
JULLUNDBR,  196. 

Hotel :  Cheltenham  H.,  on 
the  Mai  1  opposite  the  church 
in  Cantonment  -  suburb. 
D.B.  5  minutes'  drive  from 
rly.  sta. 
JT7MM00,  208,  S21. 

State  D.B. 

Travellers  fortunate 
enough  to  be  recommended 
by  the  Resident  may  be  ac- 
commodated at  the  Resi- 
dency. 
JX7NAGADE,  155. 

Aooommodation  and  con- 
veyances on  application  to 
the  Prime  Minister  of  Katty- 
war.  There  is  a  fine  GMiest 
House  for  iiativiBS  and 
officials  of  rank.  D.B.  close 
to  rly.  sta.  Two  good 
Serais  outside  the  Majevdi 
and  Verawal  Gates  respec- 
tively. 
JUNGSHAHI  (R.),  230. 
Rooms  at  the  rly.  sta. 
C^m«ls  or  carrfages  for 
Tatta  should  be  ordered 
beforehand.  Communicate 
with  the  station  -  master. 
For  visiting  Tatta  the  best 
plan  for  the  traveller  is  to 
hire  a  carriage  at  Jungshahi 
and  drivia  (5  rs.)  2  hrs.  to 
Tatta,  taking  lunch  with 
him. 
JUTOGH,  190  19L   i 


EADAM,  215. 
KADAROLI,  301. 
KADI,  119. 

BLADUGANNAWA,  444. 
KADUWBLLA,  R.H.,  449. 
KAHOOTA,  221. 
KATRA,  111. 
KAITY,  390. 

KALA  KB  SARAI,  D.B.,  21S. 
KALA  OYA,  B.H.,  455. 
KALGHAT,  61. 
KALKA,  190. 

Hotels :  Lovories  H.j  next 
door   to  P.   O.   and  T.  0. 
(open  throughout  the  year), 
and  Lumley's   H.       TOBga 
Office  at  P.  O.  (see  SimlaX 
Passengers  can  book  to  in- 
termediate stations  betweoi 
Kalka  and  Simla  by  ordm- 
ary   conveyances,    but  the 
full   fare,    8    rs.,    wiU   be 
charged.      NotVses    to    P(U- 
sengers  by  Tonga  (see  SmLi). 
KALPI,  D.B.,  53,  91. 
KALUNGA,  78. 
KALUTARA,  B.H.  exceUent, 

451. 
BLALWAWEWA,  456. 

Travellers   will    find  «c- 
commiKlation  at  the  Go^t. 
Bungalow  on  the  Bund. 
KALYAN,  27. 

R.  and  Waiting  Rooms. 
Bullock-carts  for  hire. 
KALYAN  KOT,  231. 
KAMALAPUR,  354. 

D.B.    See  Hampi. 
KAACPTI,  D.B.,  76. 
KANAKARAYANKULAM 

R.H.,  458. 
KANBAL,  D.B.,  219,  220. 
KANDY,  444. 

Hotels:  Grand  if.,  excel- 
lent ;  Queen's  H.,  fkii-.  Flor- 
mce  Vmas  H.,  smaU,  bat 
comfortable;  obliging  land- 
lord. 
Caub:  onS.W.  «i<ieofUk<> 
Drapers,  eta:  R.  Charier 
and  Co. ;  Cargill  and  Co. ; 
Steen  and  Co. 

Missions:    C.M^.   stk, 
Tffncomalee    St.  ;     Chrirt 
Church ;    TrinUy    Gbnnft* 
Colleger  and  Sckiools. 
KANGAN,  219. 
KANGRA  VALLEY,  IW. 
EJOVHARI,  23,  27. 
KANIPANI,  267. 
KANITIVA,  R.H.   448 
KANKARITA  LAiOlf  VA 


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INDEX  AKD  DIRICTOKY 


475 


iANKHAL,  254. 
^NTALAI,  R.H.,  460. 
LAPADVANJ,     D.B.     good, 
110. 

lARACHI  (R.),  D.B.,  close  to 
arseual,  282. 

Hotels :  Paul's  H.  (good) 
close  to  Frere  St.  sta.  The 
Devon  Villa  H.  (good). 

Band :  Native  regimen- 
tal, plays  in  Government 
Gardens  on  Wednesday 
evenings  between  6  and  8 ; 
at  Gymkhana  every  Monday 
evening. 

Banks :  Natiotial  BanJi  of 
Iruiia  ;  Bank  of  Bovtbbay  ; 
Agra  Bank—BM  within  easy 
walk  of  the  city  rly.  sta. 

Bazaar:  Sv.dar  Bazaar, 
good. 

Glub :  Sind  Club,  adjoining 
the  Frere  Hall  Compound. 
A  handsome  building  con- 
taining considerable  sleep- 
ing accommodation.  Mem- 
bers can  introduce  friends 
as  honorary  members  for 
three  days. 

Gyvik}iaTiaa.nd  Ladies'  Club 
within  live  minutes'  walk 
from  Sind  Club.  It  has  six 
lawn  tennis  courts,  two 
covered  badminton  courts, 
ballroom  and  1  ibrary .  Band 
generally  plays  every  Mon- 
day evening. 
Golfaub. 

Mission  Sta. :  C.M.S. 
Steamship      Agencies : 
P.  <fe  0.  S.  N.  Co.,  M'lver, 
M*Kenzie  and  Co. 

Bt-itish  India  S.  N.  Co., 
Weekly  S.S.  meet  in-coming 
and  out -going  P.  &  O. 
steamers  from  Europe  at 
Bombay,  M'lver,  M'Kenzie 
and  Co.  Weekly  to  Persian 
Gulf,  bi-weekly  to  Bombay. 
Messageries  Maritimes. 
Monthly  to  and  from  Mar- 
seilles. 

Clan  Line,  Finlay,  Muir 
and  Co. 

HaU  Line,  Sir  Charles 
Forbes  and  Co. 

Wilson  Line^inlay,  Muir, 
and  Co.  To  Bombay, 
Middlesboro',  or  Hull  every 
fortnight. 

Andior  Line,  D.  Graham 
and  Co. 

For  goods:  Hansa  Line; 
Wilson  (Hull)  Line, 

Forwarding  Agents : 
Latham  and  Co. ;  Rogers 
and  Co. 

Stores:  Army  and  Navy 
(branch  of  London  establish- 
raentX  Bandar  Road. 


KARIMGANJ,  277 

KARJAT,  319. 

EARLI,  320. 

The  best  way  to  visit  the 
Caves  is  to  alight  at  Lon- 
auli  (G.I.P.  Rly.),  and  drive 
to  and  from  Karli. 

KARMIGURIAMMAN 
KOVIL,  410. 

KARUR,  387. 

KARWAR,  D.B.,  363. 

KABWI,  103. 

KASARA  (R.),  28. 

KASAULI,  190. 

Hotel :  Norton's  H. 

KASIM  BAZAR,  266. 

KATAS,  209. 

KATERAGAM,  462. 

KATHA,  430. 

KATHGODAM  (JR.),  288,  246, 
253. 
Hotel :  Railway  H. 
Tongas,  -ponies,  dandies, 
bearers,  and  porters,  await 
the  trains.  Tongas  should 
be  secured  beforeliand  by 
letter  or  telegram  to  station- 
master.  Ekkas  at  moderate 
rate  are  available  for  native 
servants.  From  Kathgodam 
to  Naini-Tal  Brewery  by 
tonga  daily,  fare  3  rs.  8  as. 

KATJURI,  288. 

KATNI,  36,  77. 

KATPADt  (B.),  874. 

KATTYWAR  PROVINOE,152 

KAUNIA,  D.B.,  273. 

KBGALLA,  R.H.  poor,  444. 

KEKERAWA,     R.H.     small 
but  good,  456. 

KBLANI,  448. 

KEM,  sai. 

KERl-GHAT,  D.B.,  191. 
KHADAKWASLA^    LAKE, 

329.  -^ 

KHAIBER  PASS,  214. 
KHAIRABAD  (B.),  218. 
KHAJURAHU,  103. 
KHAMGAON,  74. 
KHAN  A,  51,  264. 
KHANDAOIRI  OAVES,  286. 
KHANDAHAMA,  219. 
KHANDALA,  320. 

D.B.  on  edge  of  the  ravine. 

Hotel ;  Glendale  H.  (good). 
KHANDWA,  84,  80.  ? 

R.  and  Waiting  Booms. 
Conveyances      procurable. 
D.B. 
KHARAGHODA,  152. 
KHELAT,  237. 
KHBRALU,  118. 
KH  ULDABAD.    See  Roza. 


KHUNDILANI,  287. 
KHURDA  ROAD,  353 
KHWAJAH  KHIZR 

ISLAND,  225. 
KHYRNA,  254. 
KIAMARI,  233. 
KILLA  ABDULLA  (B.),  236. 
KINCHIN JANGA    MOUNT, 

272. 
KINDAT,  439.' 
KIRI  ELA,  451.. 
KIRINDE,  B.H.,  454. 
KIBKEE,  324. 
KIROALI,  167. 
KISHAN,  237. 
KITTUR,  318. 
KOCHALI,  235. 
KODAIKANAL,  404. 
KODKANI.    Two  D.Bs.,  364. 
KOFWARA,  217. 
KOHALA,  D.B.,  good,  217. 
KOHAT,  D.B.,  215. 
KOHIMA,  274. 
KOIL,  259. 
KOJAK  PASS,  236. 
KOLAGHEL,  371. 

D.B.  on  S.  side  of  road  to 

harbour. 

KOLANGAM,  217. 

KOLAR,  388. 

KOLAR  GOLD  FIELDS,  376. 
A  short  branch  railway 
runs  from  Bowringpet  to 
the  Gold-fields,  where  there 
is  a  gootl  D.B.  in  the  Mysore 
Company's  Camp. 

KOLHAPUR,  297. 

D.B.  at  8.  end  of  Can- 
tonment. 

KOMANI,  B.H.,  462. 

KONABAK,  282. 

KONDAPALLI,  352 

KORBA,  77. 

KOTA,  77. 

KOTAGIRI,  888. 

Hotel :  Spencer's  H.  (good). 

KOTAL  DARWAZA,  237. 

KOTDWARA,  238 

KOTGARH,  D.B.,  192. 

KOT-KAPURA  (B),  166. 

KOTLI,  221. 

KOTRI  (B.),  228. 

D.B.  (provisions  must  be 
taken),  not  far  from  Bander 
rly.  sta. 

KOTTA,  443. 

KOUMARKELA,  78. 

KRISHNA,  388. 

KUCHLAK,  236. 

KULBABGA,  D.B.,  832. 

KULLU  VALLEY,  192. 


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476 


IKDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


KUMBHAKQKAM(&.),  D.B., 

397. 
KUMBURUWBLLA,     E.H., 

448. 
KUNHUR,  71. 
KUPURTHALLA,  196. 
KURIGRAM,  273. 
KUBNAL,  189. 

D.B.  in  Civil  Station  N.W. 

of  town. 
KURNOOL  (Madras),  358. 
D.B.    See  Dlione. 

KURNOOL  ROAD  STA.,  858. 
See  Dhone. 

KURSEONG  (R.X  D.B.,  271. 
Hotel :  Clarendon  H.  (good) 
pleasant  place  for  breaking 
journey.  Some  people  prefer 
this  place  to  Darjeeling. 

KURUNEGALA,  E.H.,  448. 

KUTALLAM,  408. 

KUTB  (Delhi),  147. 

Police  Rest  House  in  the 
tombofAdhaniKlian.  Com- 
fortable quarters.  Applica- 
tion  must  be  made  before- 
hand to  the  superintendent 
of  i>olice  at  Delhi  for  per- 
mission  to  stop  there.  D.B. 
close  to  tlie  great  mosque. 

KYANHNYAT,  430. 

KYAUKMYAUNG,  430. 

KYAUKPYU,  438. 

KYAUKSE,  426. 


LABANI,  210. 

LAHORE  (R.),  199. 

D.B.  2  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

Hotels:  NedcnCs  H.,  Char- 
ing Cross  U.y  these  two  are 
the  best. 

Boarding  Houses:  Hil- 
tier's,  Caversham. 

Olub  in  Civil  Lines,  Pa^yaft 
Club. 

Missions  :  C.M.S.  St. 
John's  Divinity  School ; 
Zenana  Mission,  and  Trinity 
Church.  American  Presby- 
Urian:  Porraan  College  and 
Church. 
LAHUGALAWBWA,  462. 
LAKI  (R.),  227. 

No  D.B.  but  good  rooms 
at  the  rly.  sta. 

LAKKUNDI,  316. 
LAKWAR,  D.B.,  257. 
LALA  MUSA  (R.),  209,  224. 
LALITPUR,  D.B.,  89. 
LALPOOR,  217. 


LANDOUR,  257. 

Hotel:  Oriental  U. 
LAN8DOWNE,  238 
LARKANA,  D.B.,  226. 
LASALGAON,  31. 
LA8CAPANA,  446. 
LASHKAR,  96. 
LASSENDRA,  110. 
LEH,  219,  220. 
LEMASTOTTA,  450. 
LENA  CAVES,  29. 
LHAK8AR,  238,  254. 
LIBONG,  272. 
LIMBDI,  153. 
LIMKHEDA,  110. 
LINGAMPALLI,  345. 
LODWICK  POLNT,  294. 
LOGARH  HILL-FORT,  323. 
LOLAB  VALLEY,  218. 
LONAULI  (R.),  320. 

Gymkhana    Hotel     i     m. 

from  rly.  sta. 
Starting-place  for  drive  to 

the  Caves  at  Karli. 
LONDA  (R.),  301. 
LORALAI,  235. 
LUCKEESERAI,  50,  270. 
LUOKNOW  (R.),  239. 

Hotels :  Hill's  Imperial  H. , 

Abbott   Road;    Civil   and 

Military     H.;     Royal    H.; 

Wutzler's    H. ;     Prince    of 

Wales's  H. 
Clubs :  United  Service,  in 

tlie  Chatr  Manzil.  Palace; 

Mohammed  Bagh  C,  Canton- 
ments. 
Missions :  C.M.S.  sta.  (at 

Zahur  Bakhsh),  Church  of 

Epiphany     and      Schools ; 

Methodist  Episcopal,  of  U.S.A . 
The  Museum  (Ajaib  Ghar) 

is  closed  at  3.30   and   ou 

Fridays. 
Rly.  Line  to  Jaunpur  in 

progress. 
LUDHIANA,  196. 

D.B.  at  rly.  sta. 
LUNDI  KOTAL,  214. 
LUNI,  121. 
LUNUGALA,  R.H.,  448. 

M. 

MADDAWACHCHIYA,  R.H., 
458. 

MADDUR  (R.),  378. 

Visitors  to  Cauvery  Falls 
can  alight  at  the  Sonanhalli 
Platfonn,  on  previous  notice 
to  station-master  there, 

MADHAVAPUR,  164. 

MADHUBAND,  50. 

MADHUPUR  (B.),  D.B.,  50. 


MADRAS,  336. 

Hotels :  H.  Conneauurx, 
best ;  BtLckingham  H.,  both. 
in  good  positions  close  to 
Mount  Road ;  Capper  Hms€ 
if., on  the  Beach,  about 4»i. 
S.  of  the  pier,  and  3  m.  freui 
rly.  sta. ;  Denfs  Gardens  R. , 
ElphinstoneH.,  7Jtrming*«n 
H.,  Salisimry  fl.,  Victorvi 
H.,  and  Branch  Elphinstvte 
H. ,  all  in  central  position,  m 
or  near  Mount  Road,  notfr 
from  the  Madras  Club,  ani 
about  2  m.  from  the  pier, 
and  1  m.  from  rly.  sta. 
There  are  also  several 
hotels  in  Black  TowNntss 
the  harbour,  but  tiiey  are 
not  recommended. 

Agents:  Arb-nthn(A  and 
Co.  (agents  for  Henry  S.  King 
and  Co.,  65  ComhillX  and 
Binny  and  Co.  (agents  for 
Grindlay  and  Co.,  Parlia- 
ment St.),  both  undertakeall 
business  in  connection  with 
travelling,  banking,  and 
financial  arrangements  for 
travellers  in  India. 

Banks:  Bank  of  Mains, 
Pophaui's  Broadway ;  Agr<i 
Bank,  Esplanade ;  Chat- 
tered Mercantile  Baf^  of 
India  J  Londojit  and  C*iV% 
First  Line,  Beach  ;  Cot. 
TTierciaZ  Batik  of  Indi>^ 
Ltd.,  Armenian  St.;  S'l- 
tioyuU  Bank  of  India,  Ud., 
Armenian  St. 

Booksellers :  Addison  and 
Co.,  Higginbotham  and  Co., 
Vest  and  Co.,  all  three  in 
Mount  Road  ;  Kalyanaram 
Iyer,  Black  Town. 

Chemists  :  W.  K  SwM 
and  Co.,  Mount  Road  and 
Esplanade ;  and  Madvrt 
and  Co.,  Mount  Road. 

Churclies,  see  pp.  34043. 

Clubs:  The  Madras  C 
Central  situation  at  1  )»• 
from  the  rly.  sta.  on  Mount 
Road.  A  considerable  num- 
ber of  residential  chambers. 

The  Madras  Cosmctpolitan 
Club  also  on  Mount  Road. 
It  is  a  mixed  club  of  Euro- 
peans and  native  gentlemen. 

The  Adyar  Club  admits 
ladies  as  well  as  gentlemei : 
it  is  3  m.  S.  of  Madras  Club, 
and  in  its  grounds  the  ifa 
drai  Boat  Club  has  its  skeds. 

Restaurant  and  OobIk- 
tioner:  UAngelis,  Mount 
Road.    (Excellent  coo^dsg-) 

Oonveyaiioet :  The  ^ 
tanccs  in  Madras  are  twy 


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INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


477 


•considerable.  It  is  neces- 
sary for  travellers  who  wish 
to  see  the  sights  in  a  short 
time  to  engage  a  carriage. 
Hire,  a  day,  1  horse,  3  rs., 

2  horses,  7  rs.  There  is  no 
scale  of  fares  for  distance;  no 
fare  less  than  that  for  i  day. 

The  principal  livery  stable 
keepers  are  the  Madras 
Stable  Co.,  who  hire  out 
broughams  with  1  hqrse  for 

3  rs.  a  day,  which  is  raised 
in  the  season  to  4  rs.  and 
sometimes  5  rs.  The  hack 
caiTiages  to  be  hired  in  the 
streets  are  cheaper,  but  are 
generally  badly  horsed  and 
far  from  clean. 

Dentists:  E.  W.  Bad- 
cocky  Egmore;  M.  Bischoff, 
Royapettah;  S.  W.  Clarke, 
Spur  Tank,  Bginore ;  E. 
Egbert,  Mount  Road. 

Jewellers  :  F.  Orr  and 
Sotis,  Mount  Road  :  Framjei 
Pestonjee  Bhumgara,  Mount 
Road  ;  Banganadha  Tawker, 
Mount  Road. 

Medioal  Men :  Dr.  Stur- 
mer.  Pantheon  Road;  Dr. 
Crawfiyrd,  Nungumbankum ; 
Dr.  Pope,  Eye  Hospital ;  Dr. 
Browne  and  Dr.  Maitland, 
General  Hospl. 

Missions :  The  S.P.G. 
(Mission  House  in  Rundall's 
Rd.,  Vepery),  serve  the  fol- 
lowing churches  : —  St. 
Thome,  St  Paul's,  Vepery, 
and  St.  John's,  Egmore, 
and  have  charge  of  a  Theo- 
logical  College  in  Sullivan's 
Gardens ;  also  of  schools 
and  orphanages.  C.^.iS.sta. 
(at  Egmore),  Holy  Trinity 
Church;  Divinity  School, 
and  Harris  High  School. 

There  are  also  olsher  Mis- 
sions :  U.F.  Church  of  Scot- 
land, Lutheran,  Wesleyan, 
and  Methodist-Episcopal. 

Newspapers:  Dly.  Papers, 
The  Madras  Mail,  The  Ma- 
dras Times,  The  Hindu, 
The  Madras  Standard. 

Opttdans:  P.  Orr  and 
Sons,  and  Lawrence  <t  Mayo, 
both  in  Mount  Road. 

Photographers  :  Nicho- 
las and  Co.,  Del  Tufo,  and 
Wiele  and  Klein,  all  in 
Monnt  Road. 

Railway:  There  is  now 
direct  railway  communica- 
tion between  Madras  and 
Calcntta. 

Steamship  Agencies : 
P.  &  0.  S.N.  Co..—Arhuth' 
not  and  Co.  Steamers  dur- 
ing passenger  season  every 


fortnight  to  Calcutta  and  to 
Colombo,  Aden,  Ismailia, 
Port  Said,  Marseilles,  Gib- 
raltar, Plymouth,  and  Lon- 
don, etc. 

When  steamers  are  not 
callingat  Madras,  passengers 
are  conveyed  by  rail  via 
Bombay  weekly  to  and  from 
Europe,  the  (jompany  pro- 
viding railway  ticket  across 
India  free  of  charge. 

Messageries  Maritimes, — 
M.  MUlet. 

Clan  Line, — Gordon,  Wood- 
roffe  and  Co. 

Austro-Hungarian  Lloyd's 
S.N.  Co.,  and  British  Iiuiia 
S.N.  Co. 
A  nchor  Line, — Best  and  Co. 
Tailors  and  Habit- 
makers  :  Smith  and  Andre, 
Moses  and  Co. ,  Odkes  and  Co. , 
all  in  Mount  Road. 

Wine  Merchants :  Spencer 
and  Co.,  Mount  Road  and 
Esplanade;   OaJces  and  Co., 
Mount  Road,  and  Fophain's, 
Broadway. 
MADURA,  (R.),  405. 
D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 
Excellent  sleeping  accom- 
modation at  the  rly.  sta. 
MAGALHAT,  273. 
MAQAR  PIR,  233. 
MAGWE,  434. 
MAHA  OYA,  R.H.,  448. 
MAHABALESHWAR,      292, 
293. 

Hotels  :  Fountain  H., 
good,  fine  view.  MaJiabal- 
eshwar  H.,  Ripon  H. 

Olub  with  bedrooms  at- 
tached. 

Mail    Contractor,    Ard- 
eshir  Framjee,  Civil  Lines^ 
Poona. 
MAHABALIPUR,  D.B.,  408. 
MAHABAN,  184. 
MAHAKUT,  315. 
MAHARA,  442. 
MAHASU,  192.  i 

MAHE,  867.  i 

MAHIM,  104.  I 

Scottish       Orphanage, 
established  1859,  the  only 
institution  of  its  kind  in  the 
Bombay  Presidency. 
MAHMUD  KOT  (R.),  224. 
MAHOBA,  D.B.,  10 i. 
MAHULI,  206. 
MAILARGAR,  817. 
MAINDROIT,  257. 
MAKKALLI  HILLS,  231. 
D.B.  (necessary  to  bring 
food)  1^  m.  from  Tatta  ;  the 
building  was    originally   a 
mosque. 


MALCOLM  PETH,  293. 
MALDAH,  267. 
MALVALLI,  D.B.  good,  878 
MALWA  TAL,  254. 
MALWALA,  449. 
MANASBAL  LAKE,  218. 
MANAULI,  301. 
MANCHHAR  LAKE,  227. 
Any  one  making  a  shoot' 
ing  expedition  on  this  lake 
will    do    well    to    engage 
rooms    at    the    rly.    sta., 
which  are  best  for  a  night 
or    two,    as    the    D.B.    at 
Sehwan  is  1^  m.  from  the 
rly.   sta.      He  should  also 
provide  himself  with  a  cook. 
A  telegram  to  the  station- 
master  a  day  or  two  before- 
hand A\ill  generally  ensure 
a  shikari  and  camels  being 
in  readiness 
MANDALAY,  426. 

Hotels:  Europe  and  Ori- 
ental. 

Clubs :  The  Upper  Burma 
Club  occupies  certain  of  the 
palace  buildings,  and  has 
sleeping  accommodation. 
The  Civil  Club,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  public 
otfices,  has  no  sleeping  ac- 
commodation, and  is  mainly 
an  afternoon  resort  for 
tennis,  etc.  Ladies  are  ad- 
mitted to  both  clubs. 

Bankers:  National  Bank 
of  India. 

Chemists  :  Burma  Medi- 
cal Hall,  Mandalay  Medical 
Hall. 

Convesrances  :  Ticca 
gharries  (or  cabs)  of  an  in- 
ferior description  can  be 
hired  at  fixed  rates  by  time 
or  distance. 
Curios, etc.:  SignorBeato. 
(General  Stores  :  E.  Solo- 
mon and  Co.,  Roioe  and  Co., 
Moses  and  Friends. 

Hairdressers  :  Watson 
ayid  Son. 

Medical  Men :  The  Civil 
Surgeon  (at  present  Dr. 
Dantra),  Dr.  Pedley. 

Newspapers:  The  Manda- 
lay Herald  and  The  Mandalay 
Times. 

Photographers :    Signor 
Beato  and  Johannes  and  Co. 
MANDASOR.  82. 
MANDOR,  122. 
MANDU,  80. 
MANDVI,  165. 
MANGALOBE,  365. 

Steamship  Agency: 
British  India  S.  N.  Coy. 
Bank :  Bank  of  Madras 


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INDEX  AND  DIREOTORT 


MANGI,  D.B.,  235. 

Sta.  for  Ziarat,  22  m.  dis- 
tant, 8000  ft.  above  the  sea. 

MANIKPUR  (EL),  36,  104. 

MANIKYALA,  210. 

MANIPUR,  274,  276. 

MANIYACHI,  407. 

MANNAAR,  458. 

MANSERAH,  D.B.,  221. 

MARAVILA,  R.H.  good,  454. 

BIARBLE  ROGKS,2  D.Bs. ,  35. 

MARDAN,  213. 

MARGALA,  212. 

M  ARM  AGO  A,  801,  363. 

MARTABAN,  435. 

MARTAND,  219. 

MARWAR,  121. 

MASKBLIYA.  446. 

MATALE,  455. 

E.H.  good,  practically  an 
Hotel. 

MATAR  A,  R.H.  very  comfort- 
able, 452.     Hotel. 

MATHERAN,  318. 

Much  frequented  from  Sat', 
till  Mon.  in  the  season. 

Hotels :  Gramnlle  H. 
l>est,  Pinto's  /f.,  Rugby  H., 
fhoivk  H. 

MAU,  102. 

D.B.  i  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

MAYAPUR,  254. 

MAYAVBRAM,  897. 

MEDDEGAMA,  R.H.,  461. 

MBBAN  MEER,  199,  206, 221. 

MEERUT,  D.B.,  193. 

Hotels :  The  Empress  H. 
best ;  fjytton  H,,  Meerut  JL, 
Gee's  H.,  Courttiev's  H. 
Club :  Whelff  C.  (Whelee). 
Mission  sta.  of  C.M.S. 

MEHMADABAD,  111. 

GK>od  Waiting  Room  at 
rly.  sta. 

MEHSANA,  118. 

MEKAR,  74. 

MERGUI,  437. 

MERTA  ROAD,  122. 

METTUPALAIYAM  (R.),388. 
Junction  of  Madras  and 
Nilgiri  Railways.  The  lat- 
ter is  a  mountain  railway, 
whose  present  terminus  is 
Coonoor,  20  miles  up  the 
Hills.  Ootacamund,  the 
hill  capital,  is  12  miles  from 
Coonoor.  The  railway  com- 
pany provides  tongas,  and 
carts  for  luggage,  at  Coo- 
noor, for  those  who  ha\'e 
booked  through  to  Ootaca- 
mund. (R.)  at  Coonoor. 
Take  warm  wraps. 


MHOW,  80. 

D.B. ;    Refireshmeut   and 
Waiting  Room  at  rly.  sta. 
MIANI,  164,  230.  . 
MmiNTALE,  R.H.,  458. 
MINBU,  434. 
MINCHNAL,  804. 
MINERI,  469. 

MIKGUN,  430. 

Steamers:  The  traveller 
should  call  at  the  office  of 
the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Co. 
to  arrange  his  trip. 
MINHLA,  434. 
MIRAJ  (R.),  297. 
D.B.  near  sta. 
MIRISGONI  OYA,  456. 
MIRZAPUR,  D.B.,  89. 
Olub :  Mirzapur  0. 
MITHRI,  235. 
MIYAGAM,  108. 
MOGOK,  431. 

MOGUL  SARAI  (R.),  39,  262. 
MOHAL,  331. 
MOHNYIN,  430 
MOHPANI,  35. 
MOHUN,  D.B.,  256. 
MOHUNPOORA,  220. 
MOKAMEH  (R.),  50. 
MONARPUR,  78. 
MONTGOMERY  (R.),    D.B., 

221. 
MONTPEZnt  OAVBS,  22. 
MOODKI,  166,  196. 
MOOLTAN,  222. 

Refreshment  and  Waiting 
Rooms  ;  D.B.  exactly  oppo- 
site the  Cantonment  sta. 
MOON  PLAINS,  446. 
MORADABAD,  288. 

D.B.  lim.  N.  of  rly.  sta.; 
accommodation  at  rly.  sta. 
on  application   to  station- 
master. 
Hotel :  Imperial  H. 
MORAR,  92.  "     ' 

MORATUWA,  451. 
MORTAKKA,  D.B.,78. 

Starting-place  for  Uukarji. 
MORVI,  162. 
MOULMEIN,  435. 

Hotels  :  Criterion,  Na- 
tional Uall,  and  BHtish 
India. 

Club  :     The    Moidmein 
Gymkhana.    No  sleeping  ac- 
commodation. 
Bankers:  BankofBengaL 
Chemists :  Surgical  Holl, 
Tovm  Dispensary. 

Conveyances :  Cabs  (ticca 
gharries)  of  an  inferior  de- 


scription  can  be  hired  at 
ILxed  rates  by  time  or  &- 
tance. 

Medici^  Man :  Tlie  Qril 
Surgeon  (Dr.  Thomas). 

Newspaper:  The  Mod- 
Ttuin  Advertiser. 

Steamers:  The  tiavelkr 
should  call  at  the  office  of 
the  Irrawaddy  Flotilla  Co. 
to  airange  his  trip. 
MOUHT  ABU,  119 

Good    Refreshment  and 
Waiting  Rooms  at  Abu  Road 
Sta.  17  m.  from  Mt,  Abu. 
D.B.  on  the  hill. 
Hotel:  RajpuMtm  H. 
Bazaar      for       En^'lish 
stores. 
Club :  Rajpiitana  C. 
MOUNT  LAVINL&.,  451. 
Hotel:  Grand  H.,   first- 
rate  accommodation. 
MUGUT  KHAN  HUBU,301. 
MULLAITTIVA,  458. 
MXJNDAL,  D.B.,  257. 
MUNISERAM,  454. 
MUNMAR  (R.),  D.B.,  31. 
MURKURTI  PEAK,  390. 
MURREE,  211,  216. 

Hotels :  FoivelTs  H.,  Bat- 
bury's  H. 
Club :  Murree  C. 

MURSHEDABAD,  264. 

MUSHOBRA,  192. 

MUSSOORIE,  256. 

Hotels  :  CharlevOlt  B. 
very  good,  Hampton  Court 
H.,TivertonH.  (bothinKall), 
Himalaya  H.,  M-u^soorie  B. 
(Manager,  C.  Willard)  near 
Club  and  P.O.,  WoodvilitE., 
Oriental  H.,  Zephyr  lodge 
H.,  Kenilworth  Lodge  H. 

MUTTRA,  D.B.,  182. 

MUTWAL,  442. 

MIYAGAM,  108. 

MYBMSING  (R.),  276. 

MYINGYAN,  481. 

MYITKYINA,  431. 

MYOHAUNG,  438. 

MYSORE,    D.B.     near  Jafl, 
385. 

Hotels:  Gordon  H.  poor. 
Royal  li. 

N. 
NAGAI,  345 
NAGAM,  123. 
NAGPUR,  74. 

Hotel  close  to  sta.   Vai^ 
inK  RooiuK  at  sta. 
Club,  good. 
:  Bengal  and  Nagpnr  S|y. : 
Express    trains      betweea 


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VHDEX  AND  DIEEOTOBY 


479 


Calcutta  and  Bombay  via 
Nagpur  take  48  hrs. 

NAINGHAT,  D.B.,  257. 

NAINI  (R.),  36. 
HoteL 

NAINI TAL,  258. 

Hotels:  Douglas  Dale  H., 
Jteynolds'  H.,  Grand  Hotel 
(formerly  Albion),  and 
Harris  H.,  on  the  Mall  N.  of 
tlie  lake ;  LangJiam  H.,  S. 
Mall ;  Hill's  H.,  near  P.a 
and  Club ;  Murray's  H.  ; 
jRv^tom  Family  H. 

Club:  Nairii  Tal  C,  near 
St.  John's  Church. 

Shop:  Morrison's  (Euro- 
pean goodH). 

From  Kathgodam  to 
Naini  Tal  Brewery  by  tonga 
daily,  8  rs.  8  as.  Dandies, 
ponies,  and  coolies  are  al- 
ways available  at  Brewery, 
where  there  are  also  R.  and 
sleeping  accommodation. 

NAJIBABAD,  238. 

NAKELO,  R.H.,  461. 

NALANDB,  R.H.  good,  455. 

NALHATI,  264. 

NALWAB,  833. 

NAMBAPANE,  R.H.,  451. 

NANDO  AON,  31.    * 

D.B.  (R.),  and  Waiting 
Rooms. 

NANDIDRUa,  378. 

Hotel,  managed  by  pro- 
prietor of  Cubbon  If.,  Ban- 
galore. 

NANDYAL,  358. 

NANGPOH,  D.B.,  274. 

NANJANGUD,  386. 

NANUOYA,  446. 

NARAINA,  126. 

NARAINGANJ,  D.B.,  276. 

NARAKAL,  369. 

Steamship  Agents : 
B.I. S.N.  Co.,  AspiA wall  and 
Co. 

NARAMMULA,  444. 

NARI,  235. 

NARKANDA,  192. 

D.B.  Six  rooms,  splendid 
view  of  snowy  range. 

NARMAH,  237. 

NASAK  FRONTIER,  235. 

NASIK  ROAD,  28. 

D.B.  and  Waiting  Rooms. 
Capital  Tongas  on  hire. 

Tramway  to  City  6  m. 
distant. 

Mission:  C.M.S.  sta.  (at 
Sharanpore),  see  p.  29. 

Headquarters  Royal 
Western  India  Golf  Club  ; 
good  links. 

NASINA  (R,),  238. 

NATTORE  (R.),  D.B.,  270. 


NAULA,  R.H.,  462. 
NAUSAR,  126. 
NAVSARI,  105. 
NAWANAGAR,  165. 
NAYA   BUNGALOW,   D.B., 

274. 
NAYNAROO,  218. 
NBEMUCH  (R.),  82. 

D.B.     Good   Club,  with 
cricket    ground,    etc.,    at- 
tached. 
NEGAPATAM  (R.),  400. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B.I.S.N.  Co.,  weekly  service 
to  coast  ports. 
NEGOMBO,   R.H.  excellent, 

426. 
NEKI,  221. 
NELLORE,  834. 

D.B.  good. 
NBMAL  AAR,  462. 
NERAL  (R.X  318. 

Very      good      Waiting 
Room,  with  Baths,  etc.  at 
rly.  sta. 
NBRBUDDA  RIVER,  78. 
NIGRITING,  274. 
NILANA  VALLEY,  220. 
NILGALA,  R.H.,  460. 
NILGIRI  HILLS,  891. 
NOWSHERA,  213,  220. 

D.B.  near  Post  Office. 
NUSSEERABAD,  86,  126. 
D.B.  1  m,  from  rly.  sta. 
NUWARA  ELIYA,  446. 

Hotels:  Keena House, -well 
spoken  of  and  moderate ; 
Grand  II.  indiftereut,  better 
accommodation  at  the  club. 
Boarding  House:  Mrs. 
Scott's,  good. 

Club  :     a      comfortable 
bungalow. 
Golf  Club. 
NYAUNGU,  431. 


OKANDA,  R.H.,  462. 

OKHAMANDAL,  164. 

OODEYPORE,  D.B.  good,  85. 
Travellers  of  distinction, 
who  are  recommended  by 
the  Resident,  will  Mnd  ac- 
commodation in  the  Maha- 
rana's  Guest  House.  Those 
who  intend  staying  at  the 
D.B.  should  writ*  before- 
hand to  the  Khansamah  in 
charge,  as  the  accommoda- 
tion is  limited.  Carriages 
are  provided  from  the 
Maharana's  stables  on 
application  to  the  Resident. 
Mission:  U.F.  Church  of 
Scotland,  medical. 


OOMANPUR,  112. 
OOMBRKOTE.  See  Urmrkote. 
OOMER  NATH,  219. 
OOTACAMUND,  389. 

Hotels :  SyWs  H .-  H.  Oe 
Paris  ;  BosevMunt  H.;  Skoir- 
hani  H. 

Boarding  House:  Long- 
wood:  Alta  Villas. 

Clubs:     Ootacamund    C. 
and  Gymkhana  C. 
Bank  :  Bank  of  Madras. 
ORAI(R.),  D.B.,  91. 
ORCHHA,  102. 


PABBI,  213. 

PACHBADRA,  121. 

PACHMARI,  35. 

Hotel:  PachTnari  H. 
Military     Convalescent 
Depdt. 

PACHOilA,  D.B.,  81. 

PAGAN,  481. 

PAILGAM,  219 

PAKOKKU,  431,  439. 

PAK  PATTAN,  222. 

PALABADDALA,  good    ac- 
commodation and  water,  450. 

PALAMCOTTA,  408. 

Missions:  C'.Af. 5.  Training 
Institution ;  Schools ;  Sarah 
Tucker  Institution;  Tamil 
Mission  Church. 

PALAMPODDARU,       R.H.. 
460. 

PALANPUR  (R.X  D.B.,  119. 

PALBTWA,  438. 

PA  LH ALLAN,  219. 

PALITANA,  158. 

D.B.  Doolies  can  be  ob- 
tained either  privately  or 
through  the  officers  of  the 
Palitana  Darbar.  Charges, 
6  an.  to  2  rs. 

PALLAl,  R.H.,  458. 

PALLEGAMA,  448. 

PALNI  HILLS,  404. 
See  Ammaijayuiyakunur.   , 

PALUTUPANB,  R.H.,  454. 

PANADURA,  R.H.  good  and 
well  8ituate<l,  451. 

PANCHGANNI,  293. 

PANDHARPUR,  381. 

PANDUAH,  269. 

PANHALA,  298. 

PANIKKANKULAM,    R.H., 
458. 

PANIPUT,  187. 

D.B.  tolerable. 
PANKULAM,  B.H.,  455. 
PAPANASHAM,  408. 
PARA  HAT,  78. 


d  by  Google 


4d0 


nrDBX  AND  DIREOTORY 


PARASGAD,  801. 

PARA8NATB  MOUNTAIN, 
50. 

PARBATI,  328. 

PARBATIPUR  (EL),  270. 

PASSARA,  R.H.,  448. 

PATAL  PANI,  80. 

PATAN,  119. 

PATAN  SOMNATH,  161. 

PATHANKOT(R.),  D.B.,  190. 

PATIALA,  166. 

PATNA,  48. 

PATRI,  D.B.,  152. 

PATTADAKAL,  315. 

PATTAN,  219. 

PA  WANGADH,  29S. 

PAWANGARH,  109,  110. 

PAYBCH,  218 

PEGU,  425. 

PELMADULLA,  E.H.,  450. 

PENDRA,  76 

PEONTREE,  257. 

PERADENIYA,  443. 

PESHAWAR,  D.B.,  218. 

Hotel:    de  Bozario's   H., 
near   Cantonment    railway 
station. 
MUslons :  see  p.  213. 

PETLAD,  110. 

PHAGU,  192. 

D.B.,  grand  view. 

PHALERA  (R.),  123. 

PHALLUT,  272. 

PHILIBHBET,  D.B.,  288. 

PILLAIYAN  KOVIL,  409. 

PIND  DADAN  KHAN,  209. 

PINDRI  GLACIER,  254. 

PIPARIA,  35. 

D.B.  Notice  should  be 
sent  to  ensure  meals  beinj? 
provided.  Country  carts 
available  for  luggage.  Ton- 
gas available  by  writing  to 
Mail  Contractor. 

PIRANA  MONASTERY,  11 S. 

PIR  PANJAL,  220. 

PIR  PATTAN,  231. 

PLASSEY,  266 

PODANUR  (R.),  387. 

Excellent  sleeping  accom 
modation  at  the  rly.  sta. 

POLGAHAWBLA,  448. 

POLLONARUA,  459. 

The  Govt.  Bungalow  on 
th«  Bund  does  duty  as  the 
R.H.,  and  IS  comfortable. 

PONDICHERRY,  894. 
Hotels  and  D.B. 
SteamBhlp        Agents : 
B.  T.S.N.     Co.  ;     Messngeries 
Maritimes,    Gallois    Mont- 
brun. 


POONA,  825. 

Hotels :  Connaught  i/., 
best;  Club  if.,  Napier  //., 
Pon7m  H. 

Bank :  Bombay  Bank 
(Branch). 

Clubs:  Western  India  C, 
between  Ordnance  Lines  and 
Woodhouse  Road  sta.,  very 
good.  Has  sleeping  accom- 
mo<lation. 

The  Boat  Clnb  forms  an 
important  feature  in  the 
amusements  of  the  place. 
Gymkhana  Club  and  Library. 
A  visitor,  introduced  by  a 
member,  can  join  the  Club. 
On  the  cricket -ground, 
attached,  are  played  the 
principal  matches  during 
the  monsoon  months. 
GolfChib:  good  links. 
Mail  Contractor  :  Ardt- 
shir  Framjee,  Civil  Lines. 

Milliner     and     Dress- 
maker :  Miss  Watson. 
Missions :  see  p.  826. 
C.M.S.  sta.  (Mission  House 
at  Cyprus  Lodge),  Divinity 
School. 
PORADAHA,  270,  275. 
PORBANDAB,  D.B.,  164. 
PORTO  NOVO,  396. 
POSHIANA,  D.B.,  220. 
PRATABGARH  HILL  - 

PORT,  294. 
PROME,  434. 
PUNCH,  D.B.,  221. 
PURANDHAR,  330. 
PURI  (Jagannath),  278,  353. 
D.B.  i  ni.  from  landing- 
place. 

Tlie  excursion  to  the  BlacI: 
Pagoda  (20  m.)  is  best  done 
by  night  in  a  paXki  (5  hrs.), 
devoting  the  following  day 
to  the  Pagoda  and  the  night 
after  to  the  return  journey. 
There  is  no  very  .satisfactoi  y 
place  to  spend  the  night  in 
near  the  Black  Pagoda,  but 
accommodation  may  be  ob- 
tained at   Karnaraic,  about 
1  m.  from  the  Pagoda,  where 
there  is  a  Salt  Chauki. 
I  PURULTA,  78. 
PUSHKAR  LAKE,  D.B.,  126. 
]  PUSSELLA,       R.H.       goo«l, 
I      beautifully  situated,  449. 
I  PUTTALAM,    R.H.    indiffer- 
ent,  454, 
PYINMANA,  426. 

Q. 

QUETTA  (R.),  236. 

D.B.  Hotel :  iMnsdowne  H. 

A  new  line  is  in  contem- 
plation, either  by  the  Zhob 
Valley,  or  via  Mushkhat. 

dub :  Quetta  C. 


B. 
RACKWANE,  450. 
RAEWIND  (R.X  221. 
RAIGHUR  (B.),  D.B.,  S3S. 
RAIDANI,  221. 
RAIGARH,  77,  329. 
RAIPUR,  D.B.,  76. 
RAJAHMUNDRY  (RX  352. 
RAJAORI,  D.B.,  220. 
RAJKOT,  164. 

D.B.  ikcing  the  race- 
course. 

RAJMAHAL,  266. 

RAJPORB,  D.B.,  256. 

Hotels :  Priwx  of  WaU^t 
H.,  New  J?.,  Victoria  E. 
Hursf  s  jhampans,  ponies, 
and  dandies  available. 

RAJPURA,  195. 

RAMBAGH,  D.B.,  253. 

RAMBHA,  853 

RAMBODA  PASS,  446. 

RAMBUKKANA,  444. 

RAMBSWARAM,  371,  400. 

RAMNAaAR,  46. 

RAMPUR,  D.B.,  217 

RANAGHAT,  D.B.,  270. 

RANCHI,  78. 

RANDER,  107. 

RANGMO  RIVBR,  272. 

RANGOON,  420. 

Hotels :  Jordan's,  Mer- 
chant  Street;  The  Strand  H.: 
British  India,  Sole  Pagod* 
Road. 

English  Boarding 
Houses :  Mrs.  Ledfjfidd, 
8  Ahlone  Road,  next  to 
Government  Lodge,  15  min. 
drive  from  the'^ilTiarf:  Ponies 
with  Victorias  and  Dog-carts 
onhirrf;  Mrs.  Smithy  *' Allen- 
dale,"  in  cantonments  2  m. 
from  PoatOflBce,  well  spoken 
of— Rooms  .should  be  en- 
gaged beforehand ;  Onwi- 
tal  Boarding  Establisknient, 
Phayre  Street.  Some  people 
find  it  convenient  to  sUj 
on  board  the  Irawaddy 
steamers,  where  the  cabins 
are  clean  and  the  food  good. 
Restaurants  at  the  above 
hotels  ;  also  at  (^iesa's. 
Italian  confectioner.  War- 
wick House,  Fytche  Square. 
Clubs  :  Pegu  Club,  Proine 
Road  Cantonments,  with 
sleeping  accommodatioB  tt- 
tached.  Strangers  admired 
as  honorary  membera, 

Burma  Club^  Vei^btft 
Street.  Strangers  a^n^tod 
as  honorary  memlMna^ 


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INDEX  AND  DIRBCTOBnr 


481 


German  Clubt  Commis- 
sioners Bead. 

Gymkhana  Club,  Halpin 
Road.  A  favourite  resort 
in  the  evenings.  Ladies  ad- 
mitted. Tennis  courts, 
billiard  tables,  reading 
room,  bar,  etc.  Military 
band  most  evenings. 

Agents:  ScoU  and  Co., 
Merchant  Street. 

Bands:  A  military  band 
performs  four  times  a  week 
at  the  Gymkhana  in  Halpin 
Road;  once  a  week  (usually) 
in  Fytche  Square,  in  the 
Cantonment  Gardens,  and  in 
DalJiousie  Park. 

Bankers :  Bank  of  Bengal, 
Strand  Road ;  Chartered 
Bank  of  India,  Australia, 
and  China,  Strand  Road; 
Hongkong  and  Shanghai 
Banking  Corporation,  Na- 
tional Bank  of  India,  Phayre 
Street;  Agra  Bank. 

Booksellers :  Myles  Stand- 
ish  and  Co.,  58  Barr  Street ; 
American  Baptist  Mission 
Press. 

Calling :  The  usual  calling 
hours  are  between  12  and  2, 
but  the  custom  of  calling  in 
the  afternoon  (between  4 
and  6)  is  now  becoming 
generally  recognised. 

Chemists :  E.M.de  Souza 
and  Co.  ,215  Dalhousie  Street; 
Rangoon  Medical  Hall,  12 
Merchant  Street ;  New  Medi- 
cal Hall,  G  Phayre  Street. 

Consnls :  The  American 
Consul  is  usually  the  senior 
partner  of  the  firm  of  M  essrs. 
Bulloch  Bros,  on  the  Strand 
Road.  The  names  of  the 
representatives  of  other 
nations  are  given  in  the 
Quarterly  Civil  List,  and 
also  in  the  Burma  Directory, 
published  at  the  Rangoon 
Gazette  Press  in  Merchant 
Street. 

Conveyances :  Cabs  (ticca 
gharries)  of  a  somewhat  in- 
ferior kind,  drawn  by  single 
ponies,  can  be  hired  at 
moderate  charges  (accord- 
ing to  the  class  of  convey- 
ance) by  time  or  distance. 
The  drivers  are  usually 
Madrassis,  who  understand 
neither  English,  Burmese, 
nor  Hindustani,  and  know 
neither  the  names  of  the 
streets  nor  the  situation  of 
the  principal  offices  or 
houses.  Strangers  should 
therefore,  if  possible,  take  a 
Tamil-speaking  servant  with 

[India,  viii.  01.] 


them  when  going  about 
Rangoon  in  cabs. 

Craftsmen:  The  princi- 
pal Burmese  silversmiths, 
goldsmfths,  and  wood  carv- 
ers are  to  be  found  in  God- 
win Road ;  specimens  of 
Burmese  wood  carving  can 
also  be  obtained  at  the  Cen- 
tral Jail ;  images  of  Qauda- 
ma  in  brass  and  alabaster, 
and  kalagas  (appliqu6  work) 
in  Kemmendine. 

Dentists  :  Mr.  Moore  in 
Fytche  Square,  and  Mr. 
StepTiens  in  Merchant  Street. 

0«ieral  Stores :  ScoU  and 
Co.,  Merchant  Street;  Bowe 
and  Co.,  Sule  Pagoda  Road  ; 
T?ie  Burma  Co  -  operative 
Society,  Sule  Pagoda  Road. 

Hairdressers :  Frank 
Watson,  Merchant  Street ; 
Watson  and  Summers,  Mer- 
chant Street. 

Libraries:  Bernard  Free 
Library  at  the  Rangoon  Col- 
lege, uid  Bangoon  Literary 
Society  and  Cvrculaiing 
Library  in  York  Road. 

Markets:  The  Municipal 
Market  on  the  Strand  Road, 
the  Suratee  Bazaar  in  Chiiia 
Street,  and  the  Municipal 
Bazaar  at  Kemmendine. 

Medical  Men :  The  Senior 
and  Junior  Civil  Surgeons 
(at  present  Drs.  Joh^istone 
and  Baker)  in  Cantonments ; 
Dr.  T.  F.  Pedley  in  Sule  Pa- 
goda Street,  Dr.  W.  H. 
Sutherland  in  Lake  Road, 
Dr.  E.  M.  de  Souza  in  Dal- 
housie Street,  and  several 
others. 

Milliners  and  Dress- 
makers :  Rowe  and  Co. ; 
Madame  le  Breton,  74  Mer- 
chant Street. 

Monasteries :  In  the  im- 
mediate neighbourhood  of 
the  Pazundaung  rly.  sta. 
dwells  UthHawunlha,  an  old 
monk  with  a  special  pen- 
chaM  for  Buropeans.  He 
keeps  a  very  successful 
school,  and  is  always  pleased 
to  receive  visitors- 
Newspapers :  The  two 
leading  English  newspapers 
are  the  Bangoon  Gazette  and 
the  Bangoon  Times,  and  the 
leading  vernacular  news- 
paper is  the  Bwrma,  Herald. 

Photographers :  Klier, 
Signal  Pagoda  Road  ;  Walts 
and  Skeeen,  Sule  Pagoda 
Road. 

Railways :  There  are  two 
lines  out  of  Rangoon— 


(1)  The  IrrOAoaddif  Line 
running  to  Prome. 

(2)  The  Sittan{i  Line  run- 
ning to  Toungoo  and  Manda- 
lay,  and  thence  to  Wuntho. 

The  terminus  for  both 
lines  is  at  the  junction  of 
Phayre  Street  and  Mont- 
gomery Street.  The  Irra- 
waddy  line  has  pick-up 
stations  at  Godwin  Road, 
Prome  Road,  and  Alon,  and 
a  large  station  at  Kemmen- 
dine. 

Staamsliip  Agencies : 
Bibby  Line,  The  Arrakan 
Co.,  Limited. 

BriHOi  India  S.  N.  Co., 
Messrs.  Bulloch  Bros., 
Strand  Road. 

Irrawaddy  FlotUla  Co., 
Strand  Road. 

Messrs.  Thos.  Cook  and 
S(ms,  Merchant  Stareet 

Theatres:  There  are  no 
theatres,  but  travelling 
companies  frequency  visit 
Rangoon  and  give  perform- 
ances at  the  Assembly 
Rooms  in  Pagoda  Road. 

Tramways :  A  steam 
tramway  runs  firom  the 
Strand  Road  to  the  Great  Pa- 
goda along  China  Street  and 
Pagoda  Road,  and  another 
along  Dalhousie  Street  from 
Alon  to  Pazundaung. 

RANIGUNJ,  3  D.Bs.,  51. 
Hotel:  WUliavi'sH. 

RANIEHET,  D.B.,  254. 
RANIPET,  871. 
RANJIT  RIVER,  272. 
RANNE,    R.H.    small    and 
poor,  424. 

RATANPUE,  77. 
RATLAM.    See  RiUlam,. 

RATNAaiRI,  868. 

D.B.    Excellent  club. 

RATNAPUBA,    B.H.    good, 
449,  451. 

RAWAL  PINDI  (E.X  211. 

Cantonment  D.B.  close  to 
Post  Office. 

Hotels:  Flashman's  H., 
best,  opposite  the  club. 
Limetrce  H.,  near  sta.;  Rairal 
Pindi  H.,  MeUor's  H.,  Mrs. 
Bryant's  H.,  Mrs.  Stewart's 
H.,  Imperial  H. 

Club :  Rawal  Pindi  C. 
RENIGUNTA  (JR.),  884. 

June,  for  Tirupati  and 
S.I.R.,  and  for  N«llore. 

Rooms  at  rly.  sta. 

RETI  (JR.),  224. 

Digitized  by  VjOOQIC  _ 


488 


INDEX  AND  DIBBCTORY 


RSWABI  (B.X  181, 165. 

D.B.  not  far  from  rly.  sta. 
RBZON,  219. 
RTNDLI,  237. 
BOHRI,  D.B.,  225. 
ROOBKBE,  D.B.,  287,  256. 
ROTAS,  D.B.,  209. 
ROURKBLA,  78. 
ROY  BARBILLY,  239 

BOZA,60. 

One  Bungalow  available 
on  abdication  to  the  Mess 
Secy,  of  the  Hyderabad 
Contingent.  Paradise 

Lodge,  another  bungalow. 
Permission  must  be  asked 
from  the  Sadr.  Talnkdar  at 
Aurangabad  (travellers 
should  take  provisions). 
(See  also  EUora  Caves.) 

RUANWKLLA,  R.H.,  449. 
RUDBAR,  287. 
RUK  (R.),  D.B.,  226,  234. 
RUNGARUN,  271. 
RUNGPORB,  D.B.,  278. 
RUNN  OF  CUTCH,  162. 
RUTLAM,  D.B.  (R.),  82. 
RUTTEN  PIR,  220. 


8. 

SABARMATI,  118,  152. 

SABATHU,  191. 

8ADHARA,  88. 

8ADRAS,  412. 

SAGAING,  429. 

aAHABANPORB  (R.),  D.B., 
194,  237,  256.      " 

The  Dak  from  here  to 
Rajpore  can  only  carry  2J 
mda.  of  luggage.  All  heavy 
packages  should  be  booked, 
and  rly.  receipt  sent  to 
Messrs.  Bum  and  Co.,  L.C., 
who  meet  all  trains.  Good 
Hotels :  Percy  H. ,  Empress  H. 

8AHBBGUNGE  (R.),  50. 
SALEKASA,  76. 
8AIDABAD,  D.B.,  220. 
SAIRAH,  221. 

8ALBM  (R.),  887. 

Starting  point  for  Yer- 
caud  and  Shevaroy  Hills. 
The  native  town  of  Salem  is 
4  m.  distant  from  the  rly. 

Accommodation  at  rly. 
sta.  much  needed  fbr  tra- 
vellers to  and  from  Shevaroy 
HiUs.      Mail     train    ttom 


Madras  and  Bombay  arrives 
at  4.13  A.M. 

SALBMYO,  434. 

SALUVAN  KUPPAN,  409. 

8AMAGULING,  274. 

8AMALK0T,  352. 

SAMBALPUB,  D.B.,  77 

ftAKrawATt  LAKE,  123. 

SAMPGAON,  301. 

SANAWAR,  190. 

I3AN0HI  (Gt.  Tope),  88. 

Permission  may  be  ob- 
tained from  the  Manager  of 
the  Midland  Rly.  for  a  car- 
riage to  be  shunted  within 
i  mile  of  the  Tope.  Pro- 
visions should  be  taken. 

SANGAM,  826. 

8ANGANBR,  l29. 

SAPARA,  25. 

SARA  GHAT,  270. 

SARANDA  FORESTS;  78. 

SARDAIPUR,  288. 

SARDHANA,  D.B.,  198. 

8ABKHEJ,  117. 

8ARNATH,  46. 

SABUB  NAGAR,  348. 

8ATARA  ROAD,  294. 

SATGAON,  64. 

SAUGAR  ISLAND,  52. 

SAUOOR,  D.B.,  89. 

SAUNDATI,  301. 

SEOUNDERABAD,  348. 

Hotels :  The  Duke  of  Ccwt- 
navght  if.,  clean  and  com- 
fortable, English  landlady. 
Visitors  to  Hyderabad,  5J 
m.  distant,  will  find  better 
accommodation  here. 

Clubs :  United  Service  C. ; 
Gymkhana. 

SEHWAN,  227. 

D.B.  It  is  necessary  for 
the  traveller  to  bring  pro- 
visions with  him. 

SBNCHAL  273. 

SERAM,  345. 

SEBAMPOBE,  64. 

Mission:   Baptist  College 
and  Schools^  Zanaim, 
8BRARIM,  D.B.,  277. 
SEBINGAPATAM,  380. 

SEVEN    PAGODAS    (Maha- 

balipur),  408. 
SHADIPORB,  217. 
SHAHABAP  338. 


SHAH  DARA,  206,  207. 
SHAHJAHANPUR  (B.),  2S9. 

Qub :  Shahjaihanpur  C. 
SHAHRIG  (R.),  236. 
SHALDIAB,  205 
8HANKARPALLI,  345 
SHEAGAON  (R.),  D.B.,  74. 
SHBINMAGA,  481. 
SHEKOHPXTRA,  207. 
SHELA  BAGH,  236. 
SHBR  SHAH,  D.B.,  224. 
SHB^tTTNJBE      (SATBUN- 

JATA)  Hn.LS,  153. 
SHEVAROY  mLLS,  387. 
Two  small  Hotels. 
Boarding  House  kept  by 

Miss    NorJoTf    and    several 

others. 

8HIKARPUB,  221,  234. 

D.B.  Travellers  must 
bring  provisions  with  them. 
It  is  better  to  stop  st  Ruk 
or  Jacobabad. 

SHHiLONG,  D.B.,  274,  277. 
Hotel :  SkiUong  H.  Pony 
Tonga  service  daily  to  Gau- 
hati,  and  bullock  -  train  ser- 
vice daily  to  Cherrapuiyl 
Rates  for  each  seat  in  tongi 
25  rs.,  15  seers  of  lu^!^ 
free.  Write  to  Manager, 
Gauhati  and  Shillong  Tran- 
sit Service,  Gauhati. 

SHISHA  NAG,  219. 

SHIVASAMUDBAM,       DB. 
fair,  879. 

8H0LAPUR,  D.B.,  304,  331. 

8HRAVANA      BELAOOLA, 
362. 

SHRINAGAR,  164. 

SHUKLTIRTH,  lOS. 

SHUPIYAN,  D.B.,  220. 

8HWBGU,  430. 

SIALKOT,  208. 
Good  D.B. 

SIBI  (R.),  D.  235. 

SIDHPUR,  119. 

SIGIRI,  456. 

8IH0RE,  D.B.,  155. 

SIELANDARAH,  176. 

SILISBRH  LAKE,  131. 

SHJLIQURI  (R.  goodX  D.B. 

2Ya 

SIMLA,  191. 

Hotels:  Peliti's  ff.  (besi), 
Loturie's  H.,  on  the  Mall, 
close  to  the  Cburch,  LibraiTf 
and  Club  (open  throu^oo 
the  year).  At  it  is  a» 
Agenoy  for  Coolies,  and 
general    forwarding     poi^ 


d  by  Google 


INDSX   A17D    DIBECTOBT 


483 


poses.  Longvtood  H.,  Hard- 
ing s  H.,  Elysivm  H.j  Rock' 
cliff  ^M  Imperial  H.,  Bon- 
sard  H. 

Banks:  There  are  sereral. 
dubs :  The  United  iSemce, 
250  yds.  S.  of  Ck>inberinere 
Bridge,  comfortable. 

Simla  and  Kalka  line. 
Tongas,  25  rs. ;  phaetons,  50 
rs. ;  and  invalidhill-carriages 
used  for  this  jonmey.    Seats 
booked  in  ordinary  convey- 
ances, 8  rs. ,  leaving  at  9  a.  m.  , 
are  always  subject  to  the 
condition  that  the  weight 
and  bulk  of  local  and  parcel 
mails   will  admit  of  pas- 
sengers (12  seers  of  luggage 
free).    Passengers  by  tonga, 
using  the  front  seat,  should 
wear  close-fitting  spnectaclefi 
or    veils,   as   a   protection 
against  injury  to  their  eyes 
from  particles  of  stone  or 
metal.  The  mail  tonga  takes 
about  8  hrs.,  stopping  half- 
way at  Solon  for  tiffin. 
BIND  VALLEY,  219. 
SINGU,  430. 
SINHGARH,  828. 
SIR-I-BOLAN,  237. 
SmHIKD,  195. 
SIRSA  <R.),  166. 
SITABAMPUR,  51.      - 
SOBRAON,  166, 196. 
SOLON,  190. 

D.B.  excellent,  and  Khan- 
samaJi's  H. 
SOMNATHPUB,  879. 
SONAMARG,  219. 
SONARI,  88. 
SONGAD,  168. 

Dharmsala  comfortable. 
This   is  the    station   for 
Palitana.      Write   to   Dep. 
Ass.  Pol.  Agent  at  Songad 
for  a  conveyance. 
BONGIR,  109. 
SONUA,  78 
eOOKNA,  270. 
BOPOR,  217. 
iRIMANGAL,  277 
SBINAQAB,  D.B.,  217. 

A  hotel  (Nedou's)  was  to 
be  open  in  1900,  travellers 
should  inquire  about  this. 

There  are  no  hotels  but  a 
few  "quarters"  or  chambers 
owned  by  the  state,  which 
can  with  difficulty  be  pro- 
l  cured  by  application  to  the 
"  Director  of  ^blic  Works  " 
at  a  rental  of  Rs.  15  to  30 
a  month  according  to  the 
number  of  rooms  required. 
Bungalows  are  being  erected 


at  Guphar,  above  the  Dal 
Lake,  about  i  hour's  walk 
from  MunshI  Bagh.  for 
rental  to  visitors  at  Rs.  50 
to  100  a  month.  Visitors 
to  Srinagar  generally  live 
in  their  house-boats,  or  in 
tents  pitched  in  the  various 
lovely  groves  which  sur- 
round the  city. 

The  best  camping  grounds 
are  the  Chenar  Bagh  (for 
bachelors),  the  Munshi 
Bagh,  the  Ram  Munshi 
Bagh,  and  the  Narib  Bagh 
(on  the  Dal  Lake). 

The  Native  Agent  of 
the  Maharaja,  Rai  Sahib 
Babu  Amamath,  is  very 
courteous,  and  will  give  any 
information  as  to  quarters, 
prices,  coolies,  etc. 

Cockbum's  Agency  under- 
takes the  hire  of  boats, 
tents,  furniture,  and  all 
camp  requisites,  which 
should  be  ordered  to  be 
ready  on  arrival.  They  also 
advise  visitors  as  to  pur- 
chases, and  give  every  kind 
of  information. 

English  C^UMh  Servioe 
every  Sunday  in  the  new 
English  Church  in  the 
Munshi  Bagh. 

Missions.— The  C.  M.  a 
has  a  station  and  doctors 
here. 

Official  Bnles  for  Travel- 
lers.—Copies  are  obtainable 
from  the  Resident,  and  from 
Babu  Amamath. 

There  are  fair  Otinsmitlis 
and  Tacklemakers  in  the 
town,  also  a  Library— Tra- 
vellers are  allowed  to  take 
books  out.  Turkish  Baths. 

Eesidenoy  Surgeon  at- 
tends visitors   during   the 
season. 
SBI  BANQAM,  403 

SUKKUB  (R.),  226. 

D.B.  ^  m.  from  the  sta. 
in  the  European  quarters, 
the  best  in  Sind. 
SULTANPUR,  192. 

D.B.  bad. 
SUMBAL,  217. 
SUNAWIN,  217. 
SITPARA,  21,  25,  27. 
SURAMUNGAL*AM  (B.),  887. 
Rly.  sta.  for  the  town  of 
Salem,   and    starting-point 
for  Yercaud  and  the  Sheva- 
roy  Hills. 

SURAT,  105. 

B.,  Some  sleeping  accom- 
modation     and      Waiting 


Room  at  rly.  sta.    D.B.  on 

river-bank. 
Inlaid  Work  and  Carved 

Sandal  Wood  are  specialities 

of  Snrat. 
SUTGATI,  D.B.,  800. 
SUTNA,  86. 

D.B.  about  1  m.  from  rly. 

sta.  (B.)    Carts  and  ponies 

available.      Changing    sta. 

for  engines. 
SYLHBT  VALLEY.   4D.Bs. 

275. 
SYNJ,  257. 
8YRIAM,  424. 


TADPATRI  (B.),  D.B.  in  the 

town,  384. 
TAIGANNAM,  390. 
TAKHI,  237. 
TALAWAKELE,  446. 
TALBAHAT,  D.B.,  89. 
TAMLUK,  53. 
TANDUR  (B.),  845 
TANGALLA,  453. 

B.H.     remarkably     good 
and     pleasantly     situated 
close  to  the  sea. 
TANGHI,  B.D.,  290. 
TANGROT,  D.B.,  221. 
TANIN,  219. 
TANJORB  (R.),  898. 

D.B.    close  to  sta.,  to  the 
B.  of  the  Little  Fort,  where 
I)ony    and     bullock  •  carts 
are  available. 
TANNA,  D.B.,  27. 
TANSA,  D.B.,  26. 
TANSA  WATER  SUPPLY, 26. 
TAPTI  BRIDGE,  34. 
TARAGARH,  124. 
TARN  TABAN,  D.B.,  199. 
TATTA,  230. 

There    is    only  a   native 
rest-house  here,  but  there 
is  a  D.B.  (food    must   be 
taken)  on  theMalxkalli  Hills. 
Telegraph  Sta.  here. 
TAVOY,  437. 
TEBNDARIA  (R.),  271. 
TEB8TA,  D.B.,  273. 
TEBSTA  GHAT.  270. 
TEHRI,  102. 
TELLICHEBBT,  .S66. 

D.B.  good.    There  is  also 
an  excellent  little  Club. 
Agents:  B.I. S.N.  Co. 
TBRIA  GHAT,  D.B.,  277. 
TEZPORE,  D.B.,  274. 
THABEIKKYIN  430. 


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484 


INDEX  AND  DIRECTORY 


THANNA  MANDI,  D.B.,  220. 

THANE8AR,  D.B.,  189. 

THAYETMO,  434. 

THEOG,  192. 

TIGER  HILL,2rj. 

TIGYAING,  430. 

TINDIVANAM  (R.),  893. 
D.B.  good,  with  servantu 
and  crockery. 

TINNBVBLLY,  D.B.,  407. 
Blissions:  S.P.G.  sta.  (at 
Nazareth);  C.M.S.  College. 

TIXNIPITIYAWBWA  TANK 
454. 

TIN  PAHAR,  266. 

R.H.  small  but  good. 

TIRAPANB,  B.H.,  456. 

TIBUPATI,  384. 

Refreshment  and  sleeping 
rooms  at  Ren^nta  Junc- 
tion Station.  Wiite  before- 
hand to  station-master  for 
conveyance. 

TONGLU,  272. 
TORWAH,  804, 
TOSHAM,  165. 
TRI0HINOPOLT(R.),  401.  . 
D.B.  1  m.  from  sta.;  sleep- 
ing accommodation  at  rly. 
sta. 
Club:  Trichinopoly  C. 
TRIMALGIRI,  348. 
TBIMBAK,  30. 
TBINOOMALEE.  R.H.,  460. 
Steamship        Agent! 
B.I.S.N.  Co. 
TEIVALUR,  348. 
TUGHLAKABAD,  151. 
TUMKUR  (E.),  362. 
TUNDLA  (R.),  260. 
TUNI,  852. 

TUnOORIN,  D.B.,  371,  407. 
Hotel:  BHtish  India H. 
Mission:  S.P.G.  Bta. 
Steamship         Agents : 
B.  I.S.N.      Co.,     Adamsou, 
Mactaggart  and  Co. 
Bank:  Bank  of  Madras. 


U. 
UDAYACHBI  CAVES,  286. 
UDAIPUR.    See  Ood^pore. 
UDA  POT  AN  A,  462. 
UDVADA,  105. 
UJJAIN,D.B.,81. 
ULUBARIA,  53. 


ULWAR.    See  Alwar. 

UMARIA,  36. 

UMRAT.T.A  (B.)    D.B.,  190. 
Hotels:     Lawrence's   F., 
LumUy's   ff.,   Sirhind   H. ; 
all  near  the  rly.  sta. 

Agents:  R.  Norton  and 
Co.  undertake  the  clearmg 
and  forwarding  of  goods  be- 
tween Umballa,  Simla,  Ea- 
sauli,  etc.  , 
Club :  Sirhind  C. 
Golf  Club. 

UMBRKOTE,  280. 

UNDAVILLI,  359. 

UN.7ALUR,  387. 

UNJHA,  119. 

UNKARJI,  D.B.,  79. 

URIA,  D.B.,  120. 

URI,  D.B.,  good,  217. 


V. 

VADNAGAR,  118. 

VALABHIPUR,  155. 

VANKANER,  165. 

VAVUNIYf-VILANKULAM, 
R.H.  fair,  458. 

VEHAR-LAKE,  22. 

VELLOBB;  374. 

VERAWAL.  160. 

Travellers  may  find  it  con- 
venient to  get  permission 
from  the  station-master  to 
retain  their  first-class  rly. 
carriage  at  the  sta.,  and  to 
sleep  in  it  at  night 

VERNAG,  219. 

VIGITIPURA,  45C. 

yiJAYAKAOAB(HampiX358 
D.B.  at  Kamalapur.    See 
Hampi. 

VILLUPtJRAM (R),  894. 
D.B.  1  m.  from  rly.  sta. 

VIRAMGAM,  118, 152,  166. 
Waiting  Room  at  rly.  sta. 
Dharmsala    near    Great 
Tank,  well  furnished. 

VISHVAMITRI,  108. 

VISNAGAR,  118.       . 

VI^GAPATAM,  D.B.,  852. 
Missions «:    L.    M.    Soc. ; 
R  C.  Mission. 

VIZIANAGRAM,  352. 


W. 

WADHWAN(R,X152. 
D.B.  close  to  rly.  sta. 

WADI,  838. 

R.  and  beds. 
WAH,  212. 
WAI,  292. 

D.B.,  good. 

On  side  nearest  HahaU 
eshwar  BUll. 

WALAH,  155. 
WALTAIR  (R.X  352. 
WARANGAL,  852. 

Line  to  Warora  i  n  progwt 
WARDHA,  D.B.,  74. 

Waiting   and    Befrei^ 
ment  Rooms  at  rly.  sta. 
WARGAON,  323. 
WARIYAPOLA,  R.H.,  444. 
WARORA,  D.B.,  74. 

Line  to  Warangal  in  pm' 


WATHAR  (R.X  and  Waitin: 
Room  at  rly.  sta.,  292. 

Where  an  excellent  van 
can  be  provided  for  i** 
sengers  bonnd  for  Mahat«^ 
eshwar,  if  previoas  notice  b* 
given.  Tongas  can  b 
ordered  by  writing  to  tb^ 
Mail  Contractor. 

WAZIRABAD  (R.),  D.B.,  20j 

WELIGAMA,  R.H.,  452. 

WELIMADU,  419. 

WELLINGTON,  889. 

WILSONS  BUNGAIX)W,44T 
R.H.  very  good. 

WIRAWILA,  R.H.,  453. 

WULAR  LAKE,  217. 


YALA  RIVER,  B.H.,  462. 
YAMETHIN,  426. 
YANKINTAUNG,  429. 
YBLLANDU,  369 
YENA  FALLS,  294. 
YENANGYAUNG,  434. 

YERGAUD  (SbiBYsaoj  Wm 

387.    See  Salem. 


ZA^ARABAD,  252. 
ZIARAT,  235 


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