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d by Google
IvN<i ao\Q,.\A-
HARVARD COLLEGE
LIBRARY
FROM THE UBHAKT OF
JAMES HAUGHTON WOODS
INSTRUCTOR AND PROFESSOR AT HARVARD
FROM 1900 TO 1935
THE GIFT OF mS FAMILY
1935
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A HANDBOOK
TO
INDIA
BURMA AND CEYLON
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T^ This sign in the text eippended to a name
indicates that fwrther infomuUion relating to the
subject is to he fomid in the Index and Direq-
TORY at the etid of the hook^
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A
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS
IN
INDIA
BURMA AND CEYLON
INCLUDING THE
PROVINCES OF BENGAL, BOMBAY, AND MADRAS
THE PUNJAB, NORTH-WEST PROVINCES, RAJPUTANA,
CENTRAL PROVINCES, BiYSORE, ETC.
THE NATIVE STATES,
ASSAM AND CASHMERE
FOURTH EDimON
WITH SEVENTY-FOUR MAPS AND PLANS
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
CALCUTTA: THACKER, SPINK, k 00.
1901
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Iry^ 2.0lb.\'f
HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY
FROM THE LIBRARY OF
JAMES HAUGHTON WOODS
1933
^
.."? V
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EXTRACT FROM THE
PKEFACE TO THE FIBST EDITION
''Since the publication of the Handbook to India, in four volumes,
time and events have effected great changes, not only in the
country itself, but also in the facilities for reaching it from all parts
of the world, and for travelling throughout the peninsula. The
public, moreover, are yearly becoming better aware of the glorious
field which in India is opened up for the enjoyment of travel and
sport, and of the inexhaustible opportunities afforded them for the
study of an engrossing history, an interesting nationality, and an un-
rivalled art, as displayed not only in architectural monuments, but
also in native industries and handicrafts. On this account, and in
consequence of the yearly increasing tide of travellers setting towards
India, the publisher has found it necessary to arrange his guide in an
entirely new form. It has been to a great extent rewritten, thoroughly
revised, and condensed into one handy volume. . . .
" The accounts of most places described in this book have been revise
on the spot, and in this revision the publisher has received much kind
assistance from civil servants and others resident in different parts of
India. He takes this opportunity of tendering to them his grateful
thanks, as also to the following persons who have assisted him in
various parts of the book : Dr. Burgess, Dr. Bradshaw, LL.D., Mr. H.
Beauchamp, Major F. Spratt, RJL, Mr. R. Clarke, B.C.S., Mr. J.
Westlake, Mr. G. Marsden, Mr. E. A. Smith, Mr. OttewiU ; particularly
to the Hon. Sir Arthur Gbrdon, G.C.M.G., who, with exception of the
description of Colombo and the first route, has written the whole
of the account of Ceylon from his own personal knowledge and wide
experience of that country ; and finally to Professor Forrest, Keeper
of the Records in Calcutta, through whose hands the whole of the
proofe of * India ' have passed."
Navemher 1892.
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PREFACE
TO THE THIED EDITION IN ONE VOLUME
The pnblisher desires to express his sincere thanks to the following
gentlemen, from whom he has received very valuable assistance in the
preparation of this Edition : Mr. H. Beauchamp, Mr. B. E. Acklom,
Mr. G. Marsden, Sui^. Lient.-Col. Jonbert^ Mr. Playford Reynolds,
and Mr. Basil Lang ; to Lord Stanmore, who has revised his account
of Ceylon ; and finally to Mr. Norwood Young for the trouble he has
taken as Editor in the revision of the present Edition.
Besides a thorough general revision, this Edition has much addi-
tional information in the Introduction as to the people of India.
Short accounts are given of the Mohammedan, Hindu, and Buddhist
religions, supplemented hj illustrations of Buddha and the chief
Hindu ^ods ; Indian architecture, arts, and irrigation are described ;
and a snort precis given of the chief events of the Mutiny, with a
map showing the (Sstribution of British and Native troops in May
18a7. But tor the faulty situation of the British troops, tne Mutiny
would never have become serious ; yet in no previous account has a
map been issued to illustrate this vital point. The chronology has
been entirely rewritten ; and maps of rainfall, temperature, and land
products have been added.
The spelling of Indian names is in a state of confusion which calls
loudly for reform. The official spelling suggests a false pronuncia-
tion, and has been rejected by the public. The railway companies,
from whom much was hoped, refuse to accept each other's spellings,
and do not adhere to one, two, or even three separate spelling of me
names of their own stations. There are only three towns in India
with a fixed spelling — Bombay, Calcutta, and Madras. Oodeypore,
officially Udaipur, has seventy-two variations. In this Handbook the
most usual spelling is aimed at.
The pubfisher, aware that it is impossible to ensure perfection in
any guide-book, however carefully prepared, hopes that where in-
accuracies are found the indulgent tourist will kindly point them out
to him, with a view to their correction on the first opportunity. Any
such acceptable communications may be addressed to Mr. Murray,
50 Albemarle Street^ London, W.
PREFACE TO THE FOUETH EDITION
This Edition is practically a reprint of the third Edition, the only
alterations being such corrections and additions as were necessary to
bring it quite up to date. The publisher desires to thank Dr. James
Burgess, of Edinburgh, for the valuable assistance he has given in this
respect.
Jtmuary 1901.
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CONTENTS
PAGE
List op Routes through India, Burma, and Ceylon . . viii-x
List of Maps aio) Plans ....
xi
Some Circular Tours
xiii
Introduotoey Inpormation—
EnglislL Language
XV
Travelling Servants
XV
Railways .
XV
Season for Visit to India
xvi
Expenses .
xvii
Clothing .
xvii
Bedding ....
xviii
Hotels .
xix
Dak Bungalows (India) .
xix
Rest- Houses (Ceylon)
xix
Food
xix
Sport
XX
Hints for Camping
XX
Books
xxi
Preservation of Ancient Monuments
xxii
Voyage from England to Bombay
xxiii
People of India — Mohammedans
xliv
Hindus
xlix
Buddhists
Iv
Sikhs ....
Ivii
Parsis
lix
Architecture .....
Ix
Arts ...
Ixiv
Irrigation ....
Ixix
The Mutiny of 1857
Ixx
Remarkable Events connecting India with Euro
pe
Ixxix
Some Native Terms
Ixxxv
A few Hindu Words . . .
Ixxxvii
Indian Coinage ....
Ixxxix
Abbreviations used in this book .
Ixxxix
Ikdkx and Directory
465
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Tour H— BOMBA.V and back,
via Caucxjt, Madura,
Madras, etc.
Bombay End of Rte. 1.
Steamer to
Calicut (Rail) . R
tc. 28.
Brode . . .
, 30.
Madura . .
, 81.
Trichinopoly
, 31.
Tai^jore
, 81.
Chiugleput .
. 81.
Madras . .
, 22.
Poona .
, 22.
Kalyan
22.
Bombay
Udays.!
Tour I— Bombay and back,
via JUBBDLPORE, CALCUTTA,
Benares, Delhi, Baroda,
etc.
Bombay to Delhi, as in Tour A.
Delhi to Bombay, „ „ E.
29 days.l
Tour K— Colombo to Bombay.
Colombo Rte. 33.
Steamer to
Tuticorin (Rail) „ 28.
Madura (Rte. 31) to Bombay,
as in Tour H.
Bombay to Calcutta and Delhi ,
as in Tour A.
Delhi to Bombay, as in Tour B.
45 days. I
CIRCULAR TOURS
Tour L— CoxiOMao to Bombay,
via Calicut, Madras, Cal-
0X7TTA, DBLHI, JUBBULPORK.
Colombo to Madura, as in
TourK.
Madura to Madras, as in Tour
H.
Madras to Calcutta (Daijeel-
ing, Rte. 20), as in Tour E.
Calcutta to Delhi,as in Tour E.
Alwar . . Rte. 6.
Agra to Bombay (reversed), as
m Tour A.
49 days.i
Tour M— Colombo to Bom-
bay, via Calicut, Madras,
Bombay, Allahabad, Ben-
ares, Delhi, Baroda.
Colombo to Calicut, as in Tour
K.
Calicut to Bombay, as in Tour
H.
Bombay to Delhi, as in Tour
A.
Delhi to Bombay as in Tour
48 days.!
Tour N— Colombo to Bombay,
via Calicut, Madras, Bom-
bay, Karachi, Lahore.
Calodti'a, Allahabad, and
Bombay.
Colombo to Bombay, as in
Tour H.
Bombay to Karachi/ N (
Tour a. .•-vJi ^
Karachi to Calcutt»(rr-xiS-
as in Tour A.
Calcutta to Bombaj^
Tour A.
58 days.
Detour to Hyderabt ^
can), Rte. 25, can bei
Tours C.D.B.P.H.F
Detour to _
Mysore, Rte. 29,^^
joined to Tours CD!
K.L.M.N. ^
Detour to the Nilgir .
30, can be joined *
D.E.H.K.L.M.N.
Detour to Laliore,
can be joined to
C.D.E.I.K.L.M.
Detour to Quetta (fie
dahar), Rte. 15, can b
to Tours A.B. G.N.
Detour to Peshaww
18, can be joined U
A.B.G.N.
Detour to Gkiya, Rta,A ^t o ;;
be joined to Tours .
E.I.K.L.M. I
Detour to Gwallor, i |
can be joined to Tott
C.D.E.G.I.K.L.M.N?i
Detour to Bljapur, ^ '
can be joined to Tou I
B.F.H.K.L.M.N. ^^
Detour to Assam an»
mahputra River, Bit
and 20b.
^ These figures represent the shortest limit of days given by Messrs. T. Cook & i
performing the journey
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INTEODUCTOKY INFOKMATION
English Languagb
A TRIP to India is no longer a formidable journey or one that
requires very special preparation. English is spoken in all the hotels
(but not in the dak bungalows) ; and European shops have good
.utides for all ordinary requirements, with attendants who speak
English.
Travelling Servants
A good travelling servant, a native who can speak English, is indis-
pensable, but should on no account be engaged without a good personal
character or the recommendation of a trustworthy agent. Such a
servant is necessary not only to wait on his master at hotels, dak
bungalows, and even in private houses, where without him he would
be but poorly served ; but in a hundred different ways when travelling
by rail or otherwise, and as an interpreter and go-between when dealing
with natives. Having ascertained beforehand from his agent the fair
wages which his servant ought to be paid, the master should take care
to come to some definite arrangement with him before engaging him.
It is advisable to have an agreement in writing. If the servant
proves satisfactory, it is the custom to make him a small present before
parting with him. The same remarks apply to a lady's ayah. Madras
ayahs though expensive are considered the best II' the traveller has
friends " up country," it is well to write beforehand and ask them to
engage a servant for him, and to send him to meet his master at the
port of arrival. " Up-country " servants are often cheaper and more
reliable than those to be met with on the coast.
Railways
In Bombay, the Indian A.B.G, Guide and the Indicm Railwa/y
Travellers' Guide, and in Calcutta, Newman's Indicm BradshaWy give
BiapB, the railway routes for all India, and steamer routea For rail-
way purposes the hours are counted up to 24, as in Italy * thus 20.12
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XVi RAILWAYS — SEASON India
is 8.12 P.M., and so on. Eailway time tlirougliout India is Madras i
time. The difference is as follows : —
Karachi time is 52 min. behind railway time
Mooltan
, 36
Lahore
1 23 ,, ,,
Delhi
1 13 M |«
Agra
Allahabad
, 10
, 7 min. before railway time.
Calcutta
> 33 ,, „
Chittagong
» 46 „ „
At most of the larger towns there are several stations. The traveller
should not, as a rule, book for the "city," but the "cantonment"
station. Before booking he should note what station is mentioned in
the Handbook. The Eailway Companies in India do much for the
comfort of travellers. Every 1st and 2nd class compartment is pro-
vided with a lavatory, and the seats, which are unusually deep, are so
arranged as to form couches at night, but are not furnished with
bedding or pillows. There are refreshment rooms at frequent
intervals, and some of them are very well managed and supplied ;
but when travellers intend to make use of them for dinner or
otherwise they should signify their intention to the guard of the
train beforehand and he will telegraph (free of charge) to have
everything in readiness at the station indicated on the arrival
of the train. The Station-masters are particularly civil and obliging,
and, as a rule, are most useful to travellers in providing ponies,
conveyances, or accommodation at out-of-the-way stations if notice
is given them beforehand ; they will also receive letters addressed
to their care, — this is often a convenience to travellers. One
drawback to travelling in India is that baggage is occasionally
transhipped from one train to another — e.g, at a junction or from an
express to a slow train — in which case a traveller may arrive at his
destination and find that his luggage wiU not reach him for some
hours. Every inquiry, therefore, should be made beforehand as tc
the stations where luggage is likely to be transhipped, and the
traveller should make a point of ascertaining that it is deposited in
the same train with him. At every station carriages of some sort
await the arrival of the trains.
Season for Visit to India
The season for a pleasant visit to the plains of India lies between
16th November and 10th March, but in the Punjab these dates may
be slightly extended ; then, however, the heat will be found trying
at the ports of arrival and departure. October and April are as trying
months as any in the year, much more so than July, August, and
September, when rain cools the atmosphere.
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Intfod, IBXPSNSIBS — OLOTHma xvii
Expenses
Owing to the depreciation of the rupee, the traveller whose finances
are npoii a gold basis will find India a cheap country. The hotels
charge 5 to 7 rupees a day for board and lodging. As walking in
the heat of the day is better avoided, even in the cold weather,
carriages have to be used in order to visit the various objects of
interest The charge for a day varies from 6 to 10 rupees according
to the locality, and the number of horses required. In a hotel a
small gratuity may be given to the water-carrier (" bhisti "). Guests
at private houses generally fee the chief attendants. The railway
changes are moderate. The traveller starting on a journey does well to
provide himself with a sufficiency of small change.
Clothing
Not very long ago it was thought essential to have a special outfit
prepared for a journey to India. This is scarcely the case now.
For the Voyage a few warm clothes for the northern part
and thin ones for the Eed Sea and Arabian Sea are required. As
regards the lighter clothes, a man will find it convenient to have a
very thin suit of cloth or grey flannel for day, and a thin black coat
for dinner. It is not necessary to dress for dinner on board ship.
A lady cannot do better than provide herself with thin skirts of
tussore-silk or some such materisd, and thin flannel or silk shirts.
Shoes with indisrrubber soles are the best for the deck, as they afford
good foothold when the vessel is unsteady.
On Baggage-days, which occur once a week, boxes marked wanted on
voyage may be brought up from the hold, and suitable clothes taken
out or stowed away according to the temperature and weather.
For a winter tour in the plains of India, a traveller requires
similar clothing to that which he would wear in the spring or autumn
in England, but in addition he must take very warm winter wraps.
A man should have a light overcoat in which he can ride, and a warm
long ukter for night travelling or in the early morning. A lady, be-
sides a jacket and shawl, should have a very thin dust-cloak, and a loose
warm doak to wear in a long drive before the sun rises, or to sleep
in at night when roughing it. Tourists should remember that the
evening dews are so heavy as to absolutely wet the outer garment, the
nights and mornings are quite cold, and yet the middle of the day is
always warm, sometimes very hot, so that the secret of dressing is to
begin the day in things that can be thrown off as the heat increasea
In Bombay and Calcutta, and, in fact, all along the coast and
ia the south of the peninsula, much thinner clothing is required.
Cool linen suits for men, and very thin dresses for ladies, also Khakee
riding and shooting-suits, can be got cheaper and better in India than
iM. Ingland, and a native tailor will make a very satisfactory suit
Xviii CliOTHING — BEDDING
from an Englisli pattern. Linen and underclotliing for at leai^
weeks should be taken, — with less the traveller on arrival i
inconvenienced, or even detained until his board -ship clotl
washed, The Indian washermen, though not as bad as they ^
be, destroy things rather rapidly. Winter clothing will be ne
if it is intended to visit the hill -stations. Flannel or -^
underclothing and sleeping garments and a flannel " Kumniurj
(a strip of flannel 3 yds. long and 1 ft. wide worn round the A
to be worn at any rate at night, are strongly reconmiended. ^
The hospitality of India involves a considerable amount of ?
out, and therefore a lady, unless she intends to eschew society, ^:
be provided with several evening dresses. Riding-breeches or t^
for men, and riding-habits for ladies should not be forgotten.
A good sun-hat is an essential The Terai hat (two soft fel
fitting one over the other) might suffice for the coolest mont^
even in cold weather the midday sun in India is dangerous, aif
therefore advisable to wear a cork or pith helmet, which is lighd
better ventilated, and affords better protection from the sun tl
Terai, and is indispensable in real hot weather. Many London ,
have a large choice of sun-hats and helmets for ladies as well
The Sola or pith hats are very light, but brittle and soon spoilt b^
they can be bought in India very cheaply. A thick white
the umbrella is also a necessary, especially for a lady, and a str
for the cool hours of the morning and evening will be found ;
convenience.
Travellers in Ceylon will seldom require any but the thin
clothing, except in the mountains, where the temperature hLS.
proportionately cooler as he ascends. At Kandy a light overcoi^
at Nuwara Eliya warm wraps and underclothing, are necessary. ^
Bedding i^|
Every traveller who contemplates a tour must on arrival in ^^
provide himself with some bedding, which he should take wit||j
everywhere, even when on a visit to friends, and should have ife|l|
at hand on a railway journey. Except at the best hotels,^)
is either no bedding at all or there is the chance of its V^
dirty. The minimum equipment is a pillow and two cotton i»^ J*
quilts (Razais\ one to sleep on, the other as a coverlet ; or aL|^
rami and a couple of warm blankets. The ready-made oni^
usually very thin, but they can be got to order of any thid V
To these should be added a pillow case, cheap calico sheets, $f\":^^
blanket A waterproof cover to wrap the bedding in muA 1 1
be omitted, with a pocket to contain pyjamas, etc., or thf jN
time the bedding is carried any distance by a cooly or packl ^
a pony it may be very much dirtied A waterproof sheet is ill
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Iflbrod. HOTELS — DAK BUKQALOWS — ^FOOB xix
valuable addition to th(e bedding, but cannot be called an absolute
necessity for a short tour. Without such a modest supply of covering
as is here indicated, a traveller may at any time have to spend a night
shiyering in the cold, which would probably result in an attack of
ague. An india-rubber hot-water bottle takes up very little room,
and will often be found very handy. Some persons carry their own
camp-bed, which they can rely upon being always clean.
Hotels
He who expects to find good hotels in India, up to the European
standard of excellence, will be disappointed. Owing to the fact that
the nominal proprietor is often a tenant for a short term, the character
of a hotel may change very suddenly. At all the chief towns large
aiiy rooms can be procured, but the traveller will not be properly
waited upon tmless he brings a servant of his own with him. He
should give notice beforehand of his intended arrival, as the hotels
are often crowded in the tourist season. Most of the clubs admit
reconmiended visitors as honorary members. A club which has sleep-
ing accommodation is far more comfortable than a hotel
Dak Bungalows
With regard to dak bungalows (travellers' rest-houses established
by Qovemment), it is advisable to make some inquiries beforehand
as to their accommodation. In some cases the keeper in chaige
has facilities for procuring food, in others the traveller has to bring
provisions with him, and in some D.Bs. there are neither servants
nor provisions. The rooms have an adjoining bathroom, and are
usually famished with bedstead, wash-stand, table and chairs, and
crockery and lights are supplied. They cannot be retained beforehand
— the first comer has the preference. After occupying a D.B. for
twenty-four hours the traveller must give place, if necessary, to the
next comer.
Rest-Housbs
The Rest-House of Ceylon is ni^re like an hotel than the Dak
Bungalow in India, in that it is more frequently furnished with
bed^g and linen, and food is generally provided.
Food
As a rule, the food in India is not good. The meat, with ex-
ception of bullock hump, is lean and tough, and the fowls are
skinny and smalL Bread is fairly good; but milk is dangerous.
Aerated water should be preferred to plain water, unless the
latter has passed through a filter of the best pattern, which has
ten kept thoroughly dean. If this cannot be ensured the water
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xi Bifota^ — kmrs v6ik oJdivis^s tniin
should be boikd. Water £tom a public filter should not be touched.
If the traveller leaves the beaten track he must have a Tiffin-basket,
which should contain knives and forks and other simple fittings, and
should always be kept furnished with potted meats, biscuits, some
good spirit, and soda-water, which is good and cheap in India ; added
to this an Etna will be found a great convenience.
Sport
Although no regular attempt is here made to give advice to sports-
men, a few sporting localities have been incidentally indicated in the
routes. The equipment for these amusements varies from day to day,
and each man must best know his own wants. Large-game shooting is
very expensive and takes time ; moreover, it should not be attempted
except in company with a good shikari and with the assistance of
persons of local importance. Otherwise it would probably involve
a mere waste of time and useless trial of patience.
Small -game shooting, wild -fowl, etc., with an occasional shot at
an antelope, is an easier matter, and will afford excellent sport It
can be got from Nov. till Feb., often at very small cost, by spending a
night or two at some wayside railway station or near some, remote
ruined city. Near cantonments the ground is always too much shot
over to afford good sport. Firearms are subject to a heavy duty when
brought into the country.
Hints for Camping
Travellers who intend to leave the beaten track for the purpose
of visiting remote or ruined cities, or with the intention of shooting,
should take a small tent or two with them. A good servant will be
able to help his master in many details of camp requirements. Trans-
port, in the shape of camels, carts, baggage-ponies, or bearers, can be
got in any station, and in the larger places riding ponies and carts for
hire can be obtained.
Simple requirements for camp consist in — Tent (Cabul tent, 80 lbs.
complete) for self, and, if cold, tent for servants. Camp-bed with
solid side poles {i.e. not in pieces as in the home-made camp-beds),
table, and chair. Bath (india-rubber flat bath) and a board to stand
on ; otherwise tubbing can be done by means of native pots of water
poured over head. Fresh native pots can be obtained at any village ;
the old ones left behind on moving camp. A tent (" kanaut '*) to use
as a bath-room. A few iron tent-pegs (and wooden ones for soft
ground), a mallet Carpet for tent. Washing basin (" chilumchee ")
and stand. Hooks to strap on tent-pole to hang clothes on, etc
Cooking-pots (" degchi '*) ; a fry-pan. A few knives, forks, and spoons,
a few iron plates, cup and saucer, mustard, pepper, and salt pots, an
iron dish or two. A second tent (small) is jdways useful to cook in, if
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Mnd, HINTS FOR CAMPINQ — BOOKS XXi
nining. Servants required in camp are — a boy to wait, a cook, a
irater- carrier (" bliisti '*), grooms for horses, and camel or cart men.
All food for self, except milk and fresh meat, must be taken from
station. Food for servants, milk and meat (goat or sheep), can be got
in any but the poorest villages. For clothes take blankets, sheets
(luxury), etc. Aii Indian shooting suit. Rough boots and gaiters.
Jerseys. A few shirts, pyjamas, handkerchiefs. A light flannel suit
or two and slippers for camp. One good sun-hat for shooting in, a
second sun-hat and a cap for camp wear. Take soap, towels, sponge,
shaving-glass, mosquito-net and sticks for it, in case of mosquitoes
giving much trouble at night (If ladies are in the party, more
servants, tents, food, and luxuries will probably be required.)
Kemember to have all boxes and carpet shifted every, morning if
white ants are about
For arms — rthe plainer the better — 1 central fire D.B. hammer
12-bore gun; 1 C.F.IXB. express rifle, 500 bore ; 12 -bore cartridges,
empty, Curtis and Harvey's No. 6 powder can be got in any ordinary
station. Shot should be got at Bombay, as up-country it is generally
mixed.
For medicine, plenty of quinine in 2 or 4 grain " tabloids " or pills
(to be taken before or after food whenever a chill is felt), 1 bottle
chlorodyne, 2 boxes of Cockle's pills. If not used by oneself, they
are useful to give to siervants or villagers.
Books
' I%e Rise and Expansion of the British Dominion in Indiay by Sir
Alfred tiyall (John Murray), and A Brief History of the Indian Peoples,
by Sir W. W. Hunter (Clarendon Press), are small, handy volumes
whicli every traveller should possess. The following are also recom-
mended : — The Indian Empire, by Sir W. W. Hunter (Triibner & Co.) ;
History of Indian and Eastern Architecture, by James Fergusson (John
Murray) ; A Glossary of Anglo-Indian Words and Phrases, by Sir Henry
Yule and Arthur C. BumeU (John Murray) ; The Coiwersion of India,
by Dr. George Smith (John Murray) ; Asiatic Studies, by Sir Alfred
LyaQ ; Industrial Art$ of India, by Sir George Birdwood (Chapman) ;
A Start History of India, by Talboys Wheeler ; A History of the Indian
Mniiny, by Holmes ; Ancient and Medicevcd India, by Mrs. Manning ;
Indian Wisdom, by Sir Monier Williamfl ; Sdta, Tara, Tippoo Sultaun,
Mid A J^ohle Qae&n, by Meadows Taylor; Bemier's Travels, 1656-1668
(Constable's Oriental Miscellany, vol. i) ; and a simple guide to the
hagoBgey How to Speak Hindustani, by £. Bogers, Is. (Allen & Co.)
Modem writers on Cashmere are Walter Lawrence, Dr. W. T.
ghmJiftj Captain Bates, Dr. T. Ince, and Mr. Drew. Boute maps
hsvo been published by Mr. John Collett and Captain Montgomerie.
^i^Ti^^Tig visitors to Ceylon are strongly recommended to study
>«T
XXii ANCIENT MONUMENTS ^^-^
the account of that island by Sir J. Emerson Tennent, K.C.S., ^O^lJ
2 vols., 8vo (Longman), 1859. It has never yet been sup 7^^
Sir Monier Williams's Buddhism^ 1 voL, Bvo (Murray), 1889. |„J^ ,
Army and Civil Lists and a useful Postal guide are to be f
all Clubs. For books on Burma, see p. 418. ?>^
The Pbesebvation of Ancient Monuments
The striking architectural monuments of India — Hindu,
and Mohammedan — ^must largely attract the attention of the
and the means, or rather want of means, taken for their presi
must be a subject of frequent remark. Partly under outside
GU>vemment has made various attempts at conservation, bi
carried out through the engineering staff of the Public Works
ment, — ^the officers of which have not necessarily any intimate km
of architecture, — their work has too frequently been seriously ii
to the monuments to be repaired. Lamentable examples
mischievous policy are numerous. What has been wantec
guidance of the trained architect who would strictly confine
the work of preservaHon and eschew everything of the nature (
ation, which some engineers have been too fond ot Were tl
in connection with the Archaeological Survey, the monuments
might be rationally conserved at a minimum of outlay. The
ment of India carried on for many years an Archseological Sui
gether dissociated from any conservation of the architectural moi
with which it concerned itself little, if at all, but rather
identification of ancient sites, coins, dates, and relics of long-
times, interesting chiefly to the savant. A few years ago
in this respect was attempted, and a careful survey of the mom
remains at Jaunpur, Badaun, Fatehpur-Sikri, etc., was begun
surveys were again reduced in 1889, and only one architecturq
ant and a few native draughtsmen were retained in Upper Indi&j
this department officered by competent architects in the Punjab,
and Bajputana, who could authoritatively advise Qovemn
questions of conservation, the safety of the monuments w
insured, as well as the survey. In Southern and Western Ind|
except Bijapur, which seems to have been wholly handed ovei
P. W. engineer, the monuments have generally been treat«
consideration, but many have been too much neglected.
d by Google
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MtocL ENGLAND TO GIBRALTAR xxiit
VOYAGE FROM ENGLAND TO GIBRALTAR, MALTA, PORT
SAID, THROUGH THE SUEZ CANAL AND RED SEA
TO ADEN AND BOMBAY.
The comfort of the voyage depends much on the choice of the ship,
and the cabin. ^ The largest ships, as having less motion and more
room on deck, are usually preferable to smaller ones. The cabin
should be a3 near the centre of the ship as possible. In going through
the Red Sea to India the cabins on the port side are the best, as they
do not get heated by the afternoon sun. On the return voyage the
cabins on the starboard side are better, but the difference is not material.
On going on board it is well to secure a seat at table at once, as
after the first day at sea, when seats have been arranged, it is difficult
to make a change ; the seats are usually allotted by the chief steward.
It is usual to give at least 10s. as a fee to the cabin steward, and 10s.
to the one who waits on you at table. The doctor also is fee'd by those
who put themselves under his care. Going by sea from England, through
the Bay of Biscay, the saving in point of money, as compared with the
expense of the overland route across the Continent of Europe, is about
£l6. It involves much less trouble, and little or no risk of losing
baggage. The first place sighted is generally Cape La Hague, or
HofiTue, on the E. coast of Cotentin in France, off which, on the 19th
of May 1692 Admiral Russell, afterwards Earl of Oxford, defeated De
Tourville, and sunk or burned 16 French men-of-war. Then Cape
Finisterre (finis terrce), a promontory on the W. coast of Galicia in
Spain, and in N. lat. 42" 54', and W. long. 9** 20', will probably be
seen, off which Anson defeated the French fleet in 1747. The next
land sighted will be, perhaps, Cape Boo€^ near Lisbon, and then
Cape St. Vincent in N. lat 37' 3', W. long. 8°59', at the S.W. comer
of the Portuguese province Algarve, off which Sir G. Rodney, on the
16th January 1780 defeated the Spanish fleet, and Sir J. Jervis won
his earldom on the 14th of February 1797, and Nelson the Order
of the Bath, after taking the S, Josef &nd the S. Nicholas of 112 guns
each. This cape has a fort upon it, and the white cliffs, 150 feet
high, are honeycombed by the waves, which break with great violence
upon them. From the last three capes steamers are signalled to
Lloyd's. Just before entering the Straits of Gibraltar, Cape Trafalfirar
will also probably be seen in N. lat 36° 9', W. long. 6' 1', immortalised
by Nelson's victory of the 21st of October 1 805. Ghibraltar comes next
in sight. The following table of distances is taken from the pocket-book
published by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company.
This little book, costing only 2s., can be highly recommended.
* Apply to Messrs. Thos. Cook & Son, either at Ludgate Circus, Charing
Qroga, or S5 Piccadilly. ^ t
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XXIV
GIBRALTAR India
Table of Distances between the various Ports according to the Routes taken by
Steamers of the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Compant
1 Calling at Madras. s Omitting Madras.
QiBBALTAR. — As the steamers never stop for more than a few
hours, passengers rarely find time for anything beyond a walk in the
town and lower fortifications. This is a good place to buy tobacco^
as there is no duty and it is cheap. There are steamers from Gibraltar
two or three times a week to Tangier.
Gibraltar was reckoned as one of the Pillars of Hercules, the other
being Abyla, now Apes' Hill. Gibraltar was taken from the Spaniards
in 711 A.D. by Tarik ibn Zayad, from whom it was called Jabal al
Tarik = Gibraltar ; and it was retaken 1309 ; and not finally wrested
from the Moors till 1603. In 1704 it was taken by the English, and
sustained many sieges by French and Spaniards between 1704 and 1779.
In the latter year commenced the memorable siege which lasted 4
years, and ended by the repulse of the combined fleets of France and
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IfUrod, GIBRALTAR XXV
Spain by the garrison under General Elliott. Since that time it has
remain^ an uncontested possession of the EnglisL
The Rock of Qibraltar first comes in sight at the distance of about
10 m. Bounding Point Camero, and breasting Europa Point, the
spacious but exposed bay 6 m. wide and 10 m. deep is entered. The
defensive strength of the place is not at once perceptible. Two tiers of
batteries are concealed in galleries hewn out of the rock half-way up,
or lie so near to the sea-line that they are hidden by the vessels moored
around. Gibraltar is a vast rocky promontory, which on the N. side
nses in a perpendicular precipice 1200 ft high, and ascends in the
centre to 1408 ft It is 3 m. in length, and from ^ m. to ^ m. in breadth.
It is joined to the mainland by a low sandy istlunus, l| m. in length.
On all sides but the W. it is steep and rugged, but on that side there
is a general slope from 200 to 300 ft from the rock down to the sea.
On this side the eye catches three high points : N. is the Bock Q-un,
or Wolf's Oracr, 1 337 ft ; in the centre the Upper Si^rnal Station,
or SI Saoho, 1255 ft high ; and S. is O'Hara's Towar, 1408 ft
Here the rock descends to Windmill Hill flats, a level plateau |
m. long, which ends in a still lower plateau &om 100 to 50 ft above
the sea, called Europa Flats. The new mole, landing-place, and dock-
yard are on the W. of G'Hara's Tower.
Passports are rigidly exacted on landing from all but British subjects,
and sketching is, under all circumstances, strictly prohibited. The
hours of gun-fire vary according to the time of year^ but are easily
ascertained ; a few minutes later all gates are shut and not opened
again till sunrise.
Walk or drive up Main Street as far as the AJazneda, where the
band plays ; it was the parade-ground until 1814, when Sir Qeorge Don
made a garden of it, and it is now reaUy lovely. Notice a column
brought from the ruins of Lepida, surmounted by a bust of the Duke of
Wellington, also a bust of General EUiott^ the hero of the great siege.
Half-way is the Exohcuiige, containing a commercial library, with the
dub Souse to the W., and the King's Arms Hotel to the E. The
Btigliftli Cathedral Church of the Holy Trinity, built in the Moorish
style in 1832, stands near the centre of the town. Returning through
the Soutli Fort Q-ate, look at the dockyard, and passing by the South
Barracks, take the lower of two roads to Europa Point, N.E. of which
is another range of barracks. Beyond these, on the E. shore, is the
gammer residence of the Governors, called " The Cottage," built by
General Fox. The Governor's official residence in South Port Street,
which is: still caUed " The Convent," once belonged to Franciscan Mars.
Those remaining several days will have time to explore the Heights
aad fortifications, for which purpose an order from the. military secre-
tnj ifi necessary. From the Rock Gun there is a.£nis view of the
Boida Mountains and the Sierra Nevada ; the Moorish Oastle is on
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zxvi MALTA India
the way (746 ad.); under a massive tower, called the Torre de
Omenaga, are some well-constructed tanks ; and beyond, the wonderful
galleries excavated by convict labour. At the Sifirnal House refresh-
ments can be obtained, and from it is a noble view, which includes the
Atlas Mountains, Ceuta, and Barbaiy, ending with the Bay of Tangiers.
Between Rock Gun and O'Hara's Tower live a few monkeys, which
are jealously protected. S. of the Signal Station, and 1100 ft. above
the sea, is the celebrated St Michael's Cave, open twice a week ; an
entrance only 6 ft wide leads into a hall 200 ft. long and 60 ft high
supported by stala?.tite pillars like Qothic arches. Beyond are smaller
caves, which have been traversed to a distance of 288 ft In Windmill
Hill are the four Gtenista caves, where many bones of men and animals
have been discovered.
Beyond the Land Port Gate is a causeway leading into Spain, with
the sea on the left, and the " Inundation," a sheet of water so called,
on the right. Beyond these is the North Front, where are the ceme-
tery, the cricket-ground, and the race-course. The eastern beach, called
" Ramsgate and Margate," is the general afternoon resort. Across the
isthmus is a line of English sentries, then the Neutral Ground, and then
the Spanish sentries. 6 m. &om Gibraltar is a small hill, on the top of
which is the town of S. Roque, and 1 m. beyond the ruins of the
ancient city of Carteia are passed. 4 m. from S. Roque is an inn,
and then a ride through the cork woods of about 4 m. brings the
visitor to the Convent of Almorainia and the Long Stables. 10 m.
from Gibraltar by land, and beyond the rivers Guadarauque and
Palmones, is the town of Algesiras, where there is good anchon^e,
and steamers to various ports in Spain.
Malta. — On the way from Gibraltar to Malta, Algiers may possibly
be seen, its white buildings stretching like a triangle with its base on
the sea, and the apex on higher ground. Oape Fez, and the promon-
tory of the Seven Oapes, jagged, irregular headlands, are passed on the
starboard side, also Oape Bon, the most northern point of Africa, and
the Island of Pantellaria^ the ancient Cossyra, between Cape Bon and
Sicily. It is 8 m. long, volcanic, and rises to a height of more than
2000 ft There is a town of the same name near the sea-shore, on the
western slope, where there is much cultivation. It is used by the
Italians as a penal settlement^ and is rather smaller than €k>zo. The
Maltese group of islands consists of Gk>zo, Ck>mino, and Malta, and
stretches from N.W. to S.E., the total distance from San Dimitri, the
most W. point of Gozo, to Ras Benhisa, the most S. part of Malta,
being about 25 m. From the nearest point of Qozo to Sicily is 55 m.»
and Africa is 187 m. distant from Malta.
Malta Ues in N. lat 35" 63' 49", R long. 14** 30' 28". It is 17
m. long and 8 broad. Its area, together with that of Gozo, is 116
8c^. HL, and the population of the three isl^ds is about 160,000, It
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Inifod. MALTA zsvii
is a calcareous rock, the highest i)oint being 590 ft. above the sea-leveL
Towards the S. it ends in precipitous cliflfs. It has a barren appear-
ance^ but there are many fertile gardens and fields, enclosed in high
walls, where fine oranges, grapes, and figs, and other crops, returning
from thirty to sixty fold, are grown. The Maltese language is a mix-
ture of Arabic and Italian, but most of the townspeople have sufficient
knowledge of Italian to transact business in that tongue. The port of
Malta is situated somewhat to the E. of the centre of the northern
shore of the island. It consists of two fine harbours, separated by the
narrow promontory called Mount Xiberraa, or Sciberras. The western
or quarantine harbour, protected by Fort Tiffna on the W., is called
Harsamuscatta ; the other is Valetta^ or the great harbour, — ^it is
there that the men-of-war are moored. The entrance to the great
harbour is protected on the W. by Fort St. Elmo at the end of
Sciberras, and on the E. by Fort Bicasoli, both very formidable. At
Fort St. Elmo is one of the finest lighthouses in the Mediterranean.
The great harbour runs away into numerous creeks and inlets, in which
are tiie dockyard, victualling-yard, and arsenal, all of which could be
swept by the guns of St. Ansrelo, which is a fort behind St Elmo.
The mail steamers are moored in the quarantine harbour, and the
charge for landing is one shilling for a boat, which will carry four
people. On landing, a long flight of steps is ascended to the Strada
San Marco, which leads to the principal street, Strada Beale,
\ m. long, in the town of Valetta, so-called from Jean de la Valette,
Grand Master of the Knights of St John of Jerusalem, who built it
after the Turkish armament sent against Malta by Sultan Sulaiman II.
had been repulsed. The foundation stone was laid on the 28th of
March 1566, and the whole town, designed by one architect, Girolamo
Cassar, was completed in May 1571. On the E. side of the great
harbour is the town called Citta Vittoriosa.
Left of the Strada Reale is St. John's Cathedral, a remarkable
church, both historically and architecturally, designed by Cassar.
The floor is paved with slabs bearing the arms of scores of knights
who have been interred in this church. In the first chapel on the
rights the altar-piece represents the beheading of John the Baptist, and
is by M. Angelo Caravaggia In the next chapel, which belonged to
the Portuguese, are the monuments of Manoel Pinto and Grand Master
Manoel de Vilhena, which latter is of bronze. The third, or Spanish
chapel, has the monuments of Grand Masters Perellos and N. Cotoner,
and two othera The fourth chapel belonged to the Provencals. The
£fth chapel is sacred to the Virgin, and here are kept the town keys
taken from the Turks. On the left of the entrance is a bronze monu-
amt of Grand Master Marc Antonio Sondadario. The first chapel on
ike left is the sacristy. The second chapel belonged to the Austrians,
^ i^ifdi fo IfaUans, and here are pictures, ascribed to Caravaggio^ of
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xxviii MALTA India
St. Jerome and Mary Magdalene. The fourth is the French chapel,
the fifth the Bavarian, and hence a staircase descends to the erypt,
where are the sarcopha^ of the first Grand Master who ruled in Malta,
L'Isle Adam, and of La Yalette and others.
The Qov^mor'B Palace, formerly the Grand MastM*'*, close to the
Strada Reale, is a noble range of huHdings, containing marble-paved
corridors and staircase, and many portraits, and armed figures carrying
the shields of all the Governors from the first Grand Master to the
present day. The armoury is full of interesting relics, including the
original deed granted to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem by Pope
Pascal II. in 1126, and the deed when they left Rhodes in 1522. The
Library, close to the Palace, contains 40,000 volumes, and some Phoe-
nician and Roman antiquities. The highest battery commands a fine
view of both harbours and of the fortifications. There are several statues
of Grand Masters and Governors in the walk on the ramparts. The
Opera House, the Bourse, the Courts of Justice, once the Auberge
d^Auvergne, and the Clubs (the Union Club was the Auberge de
Provence), and the statues of L'Isle Adam and La Valette, are all in
the Strada Reale. The Auberge d'ltalie is now the engineer's office ;
the Auberge de Castille has become the headquarters of the Artillery ;
the Auberge de France, in the Strada Mezzodi, is now the house of the
Comptroller of Military Stores ; and the Auberge d'Aragon is where
the General of the Garrison resides. The Auberge d'Allemagne was
removed in order to erect St. Paul's Church on its site. The Anglo-
Bavarian Auberge is the headquarters of the regiment stationed at St.
Elmo. The Military Hospital has the largest room in Europe, 480
ft long, erected in 1628 by Grand Master Vasconcelos. Below the
Military Hospital is the Civil Hospital for Incurables, founded by
Caterina Scappi in 1646. Where the Strada Mercanti joins the Strada
S. Giovanni a large hook may be observed, which formerly served as
the Pillory. For further information consult the Guide to .Malta,
included in Murray's Handbook to the Mediterranecm. The island on
which the Quarantine House stands was captured by the Turks in 1666.
The Parlettario there is a long, narrow room near the anchorage, divided
by a barrier, where the gold and silver filigree-work, the cameos, brace-
lets and brooches in mosaic, and other b^onterie for which Malta is
famous are sold. Maltese lace and silk embroidery should be bought
under the advice of an expert, for the vendors in general demand
extravagant prices. In the wall of a house in Strada Strella and Strada
Britannica is a stone with an Arabic inscription, dated Thursday 16th
Shaban 569 A.H.s2l8t March 1174 A.D., for which see Jotumdl Boy,
As. Soc. voL vl p. 173.
Five m. beyond the landing-stairs is the Governor's country Palaoe
of S. Antonio, where is a lovely garden with creepers of astonishing
beauty, and cypresses 40 ft. high, as well as many luxuriant btange
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inirdi. kAi.4^ txix
tree& About j^ m. jGgurther to the S.W. is Oitta Veoohia^ which
stands on a ridge £rom 200 to 300 ft high, a£f6rding a view over nearly
the whiole island. There is a fine church here, St Paul's ; near it are
some curious catacombs. This is alL that it is possible to see during the
short stay steamers usually make, but those who have more leisure can
visit St. Paul's Bay at the N.W. extremity of the island, with the
statue of bronze erected on an islet at the mouth of the bay. Also
the Carthaginian or Phoenician ruins at Ha.erlar Ohem, properly Hajar
Kaim, " upright stone," near the village of Casal Crendi, 1 J hour's drive
from Valetta. These ruins, excavated in 1839, consist of walls of large
stones fixed upright in the ground, forming small enclosures, connected
with one anotlLer by passages, and all contained within one large enclos-
ure. The building is thought to have been a temple of Baal and
Astarte. The main entrance is on the S.S.E., and a passage leads from
it into a court, on the left of which is an altar, with the semblance
of a plant ruddy sculptured on it Similar remains are found in other
parts of Malta and in Gozo.
Malta is said to have been occupied by the Phoenicians in 1500 b.c.,
and by the Greeks in 750 b.c. The Carthaginians got possession of it
in 500 B.C., and the Romans took it after the sea-fight of Putatia in
215 B.C. The Goths and Vandals invaded it in 420 a.d. In 520 a.d.
Belisarius made it a province of the Byzantine Empire, the Moslems
conquered it in 730 A.D., and Count Roger, the Norman, captured it in
1 100 A.D. It then passed to Louis IX., to the Count of Anjou, and to
the Kings of Castile, and then to Charles V., who gave it, in 1530, to
the Rnights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem. On 18th May 1565
the Turks attacked St Elmo, St Angelo, and Sanglea, but the siege was
raised on the 8th of September (see Major Whitworth Porter's History
of the Knights of Malta, Longmans, 1858). The Knights had their own
mint, fleet, and army, and accredited ambassadors to foreign Courts.
In the archives are letters from Henry VIII., Charles II., and Anne,
addressed to them as princes. On the 7th of September 1792 the
Prencli Directory commanded the Order to be annulled, and seized all
its French possessions. On the 7th of June 1798 Bonaparte arrived
with a fleet of 18 ships of the line, 18 frigates, and 600 transports,
and Malta was surrendered A tree of liberty was planted before the
Palace, the decorations of the Knights were burned, and the churches,
palaces, and charitable houses at Valetta and Citta Vecchia were
pilk^ed. On the 2d of September 1798, when the French tried to
poll down the decorations in the Cathedral, a general revolt took
place, and Nelson sent Captain Alexander John Ball with a frigate to
aid the Maltese, and himself blockaded Valetta. The French were
reduced to such extremities that a rat sold for Is. 7d., and on the 5th
of Septen^ber 1800 their commander. General Vaubois, surrendered.
Over the main guard-room in St George's Square is written :
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XXX BQTPT, FORT SAID, AlH) THB SX7EZ CANAL India
'* Magnffi et inyicte Britannise
MeUtensium amor et Europe vox
Has insulas confirmat A.D. 1814."
Bgyfp, Port Said, and the Suez Canal. — ^The land about
Port Said is so low, that the approach to the harbour would be difSctilt
were it not for a lighthouse 160 ft. high, built of concrete, which
stands on the sea-shore to the right of the harbour close to the W.
mole, and shows an electric light flashing every 20 seconds, and visible
20 m. off. The harbour is formed by two breakwaters, 1500 yards
apart, built of concrete, the western 2726 yards long, the eastern 1962
yards long. A red light is shown at the end of the W. mole, and a
green one at the end of the R The depth of water at the entrance is
30 ft. Since the works were begun, the sea has receded ^ m., and a
bank has formed to the N.W. of the entrance, having only 4 to 5
fathoms water on it, and it increases, being caused by a current which
sets along the shore, and meeting the sea rolling in from the N., is
forced back, and deposits its silt Inside the W. jetty another bank
is forming, and extends 100 ft. every year. In 1874 the channel
was dredged out to 29 ft, and by 1875 it had filled again to 25 ft.
Port Said town is modem, and though not very inviting, consisting
mainly of wooden houses, chiefly low caf^s and gambling-houses, with
some shops, has, since 1890, been improved, and is a very important
coaling-station. Opposite the anchorage on the Marina is the French
office, where pilots are got, and where they take a note of the ship's
draught, breadth, length, and tonnage. In this office there is a wooden
plan of the canal, along which wooden pegs, with flags, are placed,
showing the exact position of every vessel passing through the canaL
The Arab quarter lies to the W., and contains over 7600 souls and a
mosque. The Place de Lesseps in the centre of this quaiiier has a
garden, and some houses of a better sort The streets swarm with flies,
and mosquitoes also are numerous. The Exchange Hotel may be recom-
mended. There are Coptic and Syrian churches, as well as Protestant
and Catholic. Trains leave for Ismailia, Suez, and Cairo twice daily.
The Oanal,^ opened in 1870, is in round numbers 100 m. in
length, and as far as Ismailia, that is for about 42 m., it runs due N.
and S. It then bends to the R for about 35 m., and is again almost
straight for the last 20 m.
The following were the dimensions of the canal, which is now
being widened (see Handbook of Egypt),
Width at water-line, where banks are low • • 328 ft.
„ in deep cuttings . • . 190 „
,, at base 72 „
Depth 26 „
Slope of bank at water-line 1 in 6 ; near base 1 in 2.
^ For a history of the canal, see Sandbook i^Egupi^ John Murray.
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Introd, ISMAILIA xxxi
Every few m. there is a grare, or station, and a siding with signal
posts, by which the traffic is regulated according to the block system
by hoisting black balls. Every year the navigation is rendered easier
by the construction of additional sidings. Traffic is carried on through
the canal at night by the aid of electric light. Vessels must not
move faster than 6 m. an hour.
On the W. of the canal, as far as Al Kantarali (the Bridge), that
is for about one-fourth of the way, there is a broad expanse of water,
called Ijake ManzaJali, and for the rest of the distance to the W., and
the whole distance to the E., a sandy desert, on which foxes, jacials,
hyenas, and, it is said, occasionally even lions, wander at night 21 m.,
or 34 kiL, from B^antarah, and 20 m. from Port Said, the old Pelusiac
branch of the Nile is crossed, and 8 m. to the S.E. are the ruins of the
ancient city of Pelusium. At Kantarah the canal intersects the
caravan-track between Egypt and Syria, and is crossed by a flying
bridge ; a traveller should go on the upper deck of his ship
when approaching it, as, if a caravan chances to be passing, it
is a most interesting sight. 10 m. to the W. is Tel al Daphne,
the site of Daphne, the Taphnes of Judith, i. 9. At 2 m. S.
of Kantarah the canal enters the Lake Ballah, and after 12 m.
reaches the promontory Al Fardanali, which it cuts through.
Thence, after 4^ m., it reaches Al Q-irsh, the highest groimd in
the isthmus, 65 ft. above sea-level. There was a great camp here
when the works were in progress. A staircase of 100 steps lea
do-wn to the canal. Beyond this, near the entrance to Lake TimsaJi,
a small canal joins the maritime canal to the Fresh-Water Canal.
The difference of level is 17 ft, which is overcome by two locks.
A steam-launch comes to meet steamers on the canal, and land
passengers for
ISMAILIA, pop. 4000, which has now much of the importance and
trafl&c that formerly belonged to Suez ; the mails and passengers for
Egypt are landed here — hotel. A broad road lined with trees leads from
the landing-place across the Fresh-Water Canal to the Quai Mehemet,
and traverses the town from E. to W. In the W. quarter are the
stations, the landing-quays of the Fresh- Water Canal, and large blocks
of warehouses, and beyond them the Arab village. In the E. part are
the houses of the employes, the residence of the Khedive, which was
used as a military hospital during the English occupation of Ismailia
in 1 882, and the works by which water is pumped from the Fresh-
Water Canal to Port Said. These are worth visiting. At Ismailia
there is much vegetation, and some good houses, — one belongs to M.
de Lesseps. There is good water-fowl shooting here, and some ante-
lopes are to be found. The fish of Lake Timsah are better flavoured
&an tliose of the Mediterranean. Lake Timsah, or Bahr al Timsah,
^ the Lake of the Crocodile/' to which the Bed Sea is said to have
Digitized byLjOOQlC
jcxxlt dt7£2 India
formerly extended, is crossed in about 2^ m. The course is marked
by buoys. After 4 m. tbe canal reaches the higher ground of Tussum,
where the level of the desert is 20 ft. above the sea, and here the first
working encampment in the S. half of the isthmus was formed in
1859. Three m. to the S. is Serapeum, where the level is from 15 to
25 ft. above the sea, so called from some remains of a temple of Serapis.
A mile and a half from this the canal enters the Bitter Lakes,
where the course is buoyed. These lakes are the ancient Gulf of
HersBopolis. At the N. and S. ends of the principal lake is an iron
lighthouse 65 ft. high, on a solid masonry base. After 28 m. the
deep cutting of Shaluf is reached, in which is a band of sandatone,
with layers of limestone and conglomerate, in which fossil remains
of the shark, hippopotamus, tortoise, and whale have been found.
From this to the Suez mouth of the canal is 12 J m. Some think
that the passage of the Israelites was through the Gulf of Herseopolis.
All the way from Ismailia the banks are fringed with vegetation,
and the plain on either side is dotted with bushes. There is a little
fishing in the canal for those who like the amusement, and at Suez there
is a great variety of fish.
SUEZ.^ — The chief historical interest of Suez is derived from its having
been supposed to be the spot near which the Israelites crossed the Red
Sea under the guidance of Moses, and where the Egyptian army was
drowned, but modem criticism tends to place the scene of this event
farther N. In the early years of the 1 8th century Suez was little better
than a small fishing-village, galvanised now and then into commercial
life by the passage of caravans going to and fro between Asia and Egypt.
But in ISSt, owing to the exertions of Lieutenant Waghom, the route
through Egypt was adopted for the transit of the Indian mail, and a
few years after the P. & 0. Company began running a line of
steamers regularly between India and Suez. This was followed in
1857 by the completion of a railway from Cairo (since destroyed), and
Suez soon began to increase again in size and importance. It suffered,
however, from the want of fresh water until the completion (1863) of
the Fresh-Water Canal to Suez brought an abundance of Nile water
to the town ; and the various works in connection with the Suez Cansd,
the new quays, the docks, etc., raised the population to 15,000. With.
the completion of the canal, the activity of the town decreased, and
since the transfer of the mails to Ismailia, the place has been almost
deserted, and the fine quays and warehouses are unused, as steamers
now usually anchor in the Roads. There is a railway line to
Ismailia and Port Said.
The Old Town itself offers few points of interest. To the N. of
the town are the storehouses of the P. & 0. Company, the lock
which terminates the Fresh^ Water Canal, the English Hospital, and,
on the heights above, is the chalet of the Khedive, from which there is
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Ifdrod, EXCURSION to wells of MOSES xxxiii
a magnificent view ; in the foreground is the town, the harbour, the
roadstead, and the mouth of the Suez Canal ; to the right the range
of Q^bel Attakah, a most striking and beautiful object, with its
black-violet heights hemming in the Red Sea ; away to the left, though
considerably fsirther S., are the rosy peaks of the Mount Sinai range ;
and between the two, the deep blue of the gulf.
The whole of the ground on which the quays and other constructions
stand has been recovered from the sea.
ExcuBSiOK TO Wells of Moses. — A pleasant excursion may be
made to the Wells or Fountains of Moses, Ain Musa. (This
is the quarantine station for Suez.) From a steamer in the roadstead
the wells look quite near. It will occupy, according to the route
taken and the time spent at the place, from half a day to a day.
The shortest way is to take a sailing - boat, . or one of the small
steamers that ply between the town and the harbour, as far as the
jetty, which has been built out into the sea to communicate with the
new Quarantine lately established on the shore of the gulf for the
reception of the pilgrims on their return from Mecca. From this
point to Ain Musa the distance is not much over a mile ; if donkeys
are required between the jetty and the Wells, they must be sent from
Suez. The other plan is to cross over in a boat to the old Quarantine
jetty, about half a mile from the town, either taking donkeys in the
boat or sending them on previously, and then to cross the Suez Canal
by the ferry used for the passage of caravans between Arabia and
Egypt, and ride along the desert to the Wells. Or the boat may be
taken down to the entrance to the canal, and then up it a short
way to the usual starting-point for the Wells. Either of these routes
will take from three to four hours. The sums to be paid for boats
and donkeys had better be strictly agreed upon beforehand. There
are two so-called hotels at Ain Musa, where beds and refreshments
can be procured, but the visitor who intends spending the day
there had better, perhaps, take some food with him. This excursion
may be combined with a visit to the docks, the traveller landing there
on his return.
The " Wells " are a sort of oasis, formed by a collection of springs,
surronnded with tamarisk bushes and palm trees. Since it has become,
as Dean Stanley calls it, " the Richmond of Suez," — a regular picnicking
place for the inhabitants of that town, — some Arabs and Europeans
have regularly settled in it, and there are now a few houses, and
gardens with fruit trees and vegetables. The water from the springs
has a brackish taste. Most of them are simply holes dug in the soil,
wfaiBh is here composed of earth, sand, and clay ; but one is built up
of Biassi'^e masonry of great age. Though not mentioned in the Bible,
its position has always caused it to be associated with the passage, of
tbeBecl Sea by the Israelites, and tradition has fixecUupon.it as the
fjndtal Digitized by LiODgie g
xxxiv THE BED SEA India
spot where Moses and Miriam and the Children of Israel sang their
song of triumph.
The Red Sea. — A fresh breeze from the N. generally prevails for
two-thirds of the voyage down the Red Sea, and is, during the winter
months, succeeded by an equally strong wind from the S. for the rest of
the way. During the summer, the wind from the N. blows through-
out the sea, but is light in the southern half, and the heat is great.
The Sinaitio range is the fii^t remarkable land viewed to the E.,
but Sinai itself, 37 geographical m. distant, can be seen only for five
minutes, from the bridge of the steamer.
The Red Sea extends from the head of the Gulf of Suez to the
Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb, about 1400 miles, and its greatest width is
about 200 miles. At Ras Mohammed it is split by the peninsula of
Sinai into two parts ;. one, the Gulf of Suez, about 150 m. long,
and from 10 to 18 wide, and the other, the Gulf of Akabah, about
100 m. long, and from 5 to 10 wide.
Wherever seen from the sea, the shores of the Red Sea present an
appearance of absolute sterility. A broad sandy plain slopes inappreci-
ably to th i foot of the mountains, which are in most parts a considerable
distance inland. The ordinary mail-steamer's track, hpwever, lies down
the centre of the sea, and little more than the summits of the distant
bare and arid mountains will be seen.
The only port on the E. shore between Suez and the division of
the sea is Tor, two days' journey from Sinai. The Khedivieh Company-
run steamers, touching at one or two of the intermediate ports between
Tor and El Wedj. Opposite the end of the Sinai peninsula is Jel>el
ez-Zeit, "the mountain of oil," close to the sea. At this point the
Egyptian Government have lately expended large sums in searching
for the petroleum which there is reason to believe exists. Up to the
present, although a certain amount of oil has been found, it has not
been proved to exist in sufficiently large quantities to pay for the
money sunk. If leave can be obtained from the Public Works De-
partment, a visit to the site of the borings might be made. At ESI-
Gimsheh, a headland, terminating the bay to the S.S.W. of it, are
some sulphur-mines, grottoes, and inscriptions in the Sinaitic character.
About 27 m. inland are the old porphyry quarries of Jebel ed-Dokhan,
"mountain of smoke." The road from Gimsheh past Jebel ed-
Dokhan may be followed to Keneh on the Nile. The distance is
about 140 miles.
The ruins of Myos Hormos are on the coast in latitude 27* 24',
The town is small, very regularly built, surrounded by a ditcH,
and defended by round towers at the comera and the gateways.
The port mentioned by Strabo lies to the northward, and is nearly
filled with sand. Below the hills, to the eastward, is the Fons Tadmos,
mentioned by Pliny. Besides the ancient roads that lead from Myoa
Digitized by VjOOQIC
IfUrocL KOSSBIR XXXV
Hormos to the westward is another running N. and S., a short distance
firom the coast, leading to Aboo Durrag and Suez on one side, and to
Suakin on the S.
KossEiR. — At Old Kosseir are the small town and port of Philotera,
of which little remains but mounds and the vestiges of houses, some of
ancient, others of Arab date. The modem town of Kosseir stands
on a small bay or cove, 4j m. to the southward. The population is
about 2000. This is a separate governorship. It was formerly a place
of some importance, but is now falling into decay. The water-supply
is bad. There is a custom-house, but the trade is very limited, consist-
ing principally of dates from Arabia.
After passing Kosseir are the " several ports " mentioned by Pliny,
with landmarks to direct small vessels through the dangerous coral-
reefs, whose abrupt discontinuance forms their mouth. These
corresponding openings are singular, and are due to the inability of
the coral animals to live where the fresh water of the winter torrents
runs into the sea, which is the case where these ports are found.
There are no remains of towns at any of them, except at Nechesia
and the Leucos Partus ; the former now called "Wadi en-Nukkari, the
latter known by the name of Esh-Shuna, or "the magazine." Nechesia
has the ruins of a temple, and a citadel of hewn stone ; but the Leucos
Portus is in a very dilapidated state ; and the materials of which the
houses were built, like those of Berenice, are merely fragments of
madrepore and shapeless pieces of stone. About half-way between
them is another small port, 4 m. to the W. of which are the lead-mines
of Ghabel er-Rosas ; and a short distance to the northward, in Wadi
Abu-Raikeh, is a small quarry of basinite, worked by the ancients.
About 20 m. inl ind from the site of Nechesia are the old Neccia
quarries and emerald mines at Jebel Zobarah.
Behind the headland of Raa Benas, called Has el-Unf, or Cape Nose,
by the Arab sailors, opposite Yembo on the Arabian coast, there is a
deep gulf, at the head of which stood the old town of Berenice. Tliis
gulf, according to Strabo, was called Sinus Immundus. The long
peninsula or chersonesus, called Lepte Extrema, projecting from this
gulf, is mentioned by Diodorus, who says its neck was so narrow that
boats were sometimes carried across it from the gulf to the open sea.
From the end of the cape may be perceived the Peak of St. John, or
the Emerald Isle, Jeziret Zibirgeh, or Semergid, which seems to be
the *0<f>t4a&rfs^ or serpentine island, of Diodorus. The inner bay, which
constituted the ancient port of Berenice, is now nearly filled with sand ;
and at low tide its mouth is closed by a bank, which is then left entirely
expooed. The tide rises and falls in it about one foot.
The town of Berenioe was founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and
10 called after his mother. There is a temple at the end of a street,
tovards the centre of the town, built of hewn stone, and consisting of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
xxxvi SUAKIN — JIDDAH India
three inner and the same number of outer chambers, with a staircase
leading to the summit, the whole ornamented with sculptures and
hieroglyphics in relief. It was dedicated to Serajns ; and in the
hieroglyphics are the names of Tiberius and Trajan.
Between Ras Benas and Ras Elba are a number of small harbours
which are much used by Arab traders to convey provisions to the
Bishareen tribes, and to bring slaves back to Yembo and Jiddah.
Since the trade with the Soudan has been stopped in consequence of
the rebellion, a good deal of the commerce which used to pass through
Suakin now goes to these small harbours, the custom duties being thus
lost to the Egyptian Government South of Ras Elba is Bas Roway,
a long, low promontory. Here is an Egyptian station dependent upon
Suakin. At Roway are some very extensive salt-fields, from which a
considerable amount of salt is exported annually, principally to India.
Suakin is the most important town on the W. side of t^e Red Sea.
It was the scene of the two English expeditions of 1884, 1885, neither
of which led to any result. In 1896 the 21st Bombay Infantry held
Suakin for the Khedive of Egypt, and caused a division of Osman
Digna's forces, thus enabling the Khedive's troops, under Sir Herbert
Kitchener, the more easily to reconquer the North Soudan. The prin-
cipal tribes in the vicinity of Suakin are the Hadendowa and Aniarar.
After leaving Suez the lighthouses seen are Zafarana and Has
Gharib, both on the W. coast before Tor is reached. Then follows the
light on Ashrafi, just inside the mouth of the Gulf of Suez, and that
on Shad war, just south of it. The light on The Biothers is nearly due
E. of Kosseir. The Daedalus Reef, small and dangerous, lies in mid-
channel in latitude 26'*,€uid was a terror to navigators before the light was
erected. And lastly, the light on Perim Island in the Bab-el-Mandeb.
The most important ports of Arabia on the Red Sea are Yenbo, lat
24'* N., the port of Medina^ 130 m. to the E. The town is sur-
rounded by a wall 12 ft high and is a mean place, but the harbour
is one of the best on the coast
Jiddah, in latitude 21^° N., is an important place ; the seaport of
Mecca, which is 60 m. E. The population, including surrounding
villages, is about 40,000. English and other steamers call here
frequently. The anchorage is 3^ m. from the shore. The town is
square in shape, enclosed by a wall with towers at intervals, and on the
sea-face two forts. There is a good street parallel to the sea. The
other streets are irregular and not so clean. The town, for this
part of the world, is well kept, but the suburbs are very poor. The
population is most fanatical, and Europeans landing must behave in al
respects cautiously. Supplies are abundant, but it is the custom to
ask strangers exorbitant prices. There are three entrances to the town
on the sea side, but the central one at the jetty is the only one in
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ItUrod, HODEIDA xxxvii
ardinary use. The gate on the S. side of the town is seldom opened,
that on the N. is free to all, hut the E. or Mecca gate, which fonnerly
was strictly reserved for Mohammedans, should he approached with
caution, though Eurox>ean8 are now generally permitted to use it.
The only sight of the town is the so-called Tomh of Eve. This is a
small mosque in the centre of two long low walls 140 ft. in length,
which are supposed to enclose the grave of our gigantic ancestress.
It is regarded with considerahle veneration, and lies north of the town
The antiquity of the tradition is unknown. Jiddah was homharded
by the British in 1858 in retribution for a massacre of the consul and
other British subjects by the population.
HODEIDA, lat 14'* 40' N., has a population of about 33,000. The
anchorage here also is about 3^ m. from the shore. European
steamers call weekly or oftener. Mooha, which this place has sup-
planted as a commercial port^ is 100 m. S. Hodeida has wel!-built
houses and an amply -supplied market. It looks well from having
moeques with fine domes and minarets.
The Italians and French have settlements on the African shore in
the S. part of the Bed Sea, at Asab and Obokh, but passenger
steamers to India do not approach these places.
The Island of Perim occupies the narrowest part of the Strait of
Bab-el-Mandeb ("the gate of tears "). It is distant 1 J m. from the Arabian
coast, and 9 to 10 m. from the Aifrican. The average width is ij m.,
the greatest length 3^ m. Captain F. M. Hunter has given the most
complete description of the island in his Statistical Account of Aden.
Perim is called by the author of The Pervplus the island of Diodorus,
and is known amongst the Arabs as Mayun. The formation is purely
volcanic and consists of long low hills surrounding a capacious harbour
about 1^ nL long, ^ m. in breadth, with a depth of from 4 to 6
fsXhoioA in the best anchorages. The highest point of the island is
245 ft. above sea-level. All endeavours to find water have failed, and
but little is procurable from the mainland near. There are water
tanks that used to be supplied from Aden, but a condensing apparatus
is found the most convenient means of supply. The British are the
only nation who have ever permanently occupied Perim. Albuquerque
landed upon it in 1513, and erected a high cross on an eminence, and
called it the island of Vera OruZj by which name it is shown on old
Admiralty charts. Afterwards it was occupied by pirates who in vain
dug for water. In 1799 the East India Company took possession of it,
and sent a force from Bombay to hold it, to prevent the French then in
Egypt from passing on to India, where it was feared they would effect a
junction with Tipu Sahib. The lighthouse on the highest point was
completediu 1 86 1, and since then two others have been built on the shore.
There is always a guard from the garrison at Aden. They occupy
a amall block house for the protection of the lighthouse and coaling-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
xxxviii ADBN India
stations. Steamers usually pass to the E. of the island near the
Qovemment boat harbour. The western side of the large inner
harbour has been assigned to the Perim Ck)al Company, who have ex-
pended £120,000 in making the place one of the most perfect coaling
and salvage stations in the East The salvage steamers are powerful,
and always ready to render assistance to vessels in distress. The
" City " line of steamers coal here.
Throughout the Red Sea enormous coral reefs run along the coasts
in broken lines parallel to the shores, but not connected with them.
They usually rise out of deep water to within a few feet of the surface.
A navigable channel from 2 to 3 m. wide extends between them and
the E. coast, and a narrower one on the W. coast. The whole sea is in
course of upheaval The former seaport of Adulis, in Annesley Bay, near
Masspwa, is now 4 m. inland.
The tides are very uncertain. At Suez, where they are most regular,
they rise from 7 ft. at spring to 4 ft. at neap tides.
During the hottest months, July to September, the prevalence of
northerly winds drives the water out of the Red Sea. The S.W.
monsoon is then blowing in the Indian Ocean, and the general level
of the Red Sea is from 2 to 3 ft. lower than during the cooler months,
when the N.E. monsoon forces water into the Gulf of Aden and thence
through the Strait of Bab-el-Mandeb.
Aden was known to the Romans, and was for many years held
by the Turks, who captured the port from the Arabs. Marco Polo,
the Venetian, visited Aden on his return from his travels in China.
It was then, in the 14th cent, held by a governor appointed by the
" Soldan." Polo mentions the port as having been " a seat of direct
trade with China in the early centuries of Islam." An Arab reports
it at that period as " enclosed by mountains, and you can enter hy
one side only." On the 18th February 1513 Albuquerque sailed
from India with 20 ships for the conquest of Aden. In the assault on
the fortress their scaling-ladders broke, and although they succeeded
in taking " a bulwark which guarded the port with 39 great pieces of
cannon," they were obliged to withdraw after a four days' siege. On
the 3rd of August 1539 Soliman "Basha," the admiral-in-chief of a
Turkish armada of 74 ships and gunboats, cast anchor in the port.
His mission was against the Portuguese in India A Venetian captive
serving as a slave on a Turkish galley writes in his Memoirs : ** *Tis
very strong, and stands by the seaside, surrounded with exceeding
high mountains, on the top of which are little castles or forts"
(evidently watch-towers, the ruins of which are still to be seen on the
most inaccessible points on the rim of the Crater). " 'Tis encompassed,
also with ravelins on every side, excepting a little opening, about 30O
paces wide " (now made into the " Main Pass "X " for a road into the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Introd. ADEN xxxix
country and to the shore, with gates, towers, and good walls. Besides
all this there is a shoal before the city, on which is built a fort ; and
at the foot of it a tower for the derence of the port, which lies to the
south, and has two fathom of water. To the north there is a large
port, with good anchorage, covered from all winds" (this is the
modem port).
On this occasion the admiral was offended at the reception he met
with from the Turkish governor of 'Aden, and landed a force of
Janissaries, who occupied all the forts, and brought the governor to
pay a visit to the admiral The latter gave a most sumptuous
entertainment to his guest ; but when about to withdraw made a
signal to his crew, on which the governor was seized, and he and his
staff hung out on the yard-arms of the flag-ship.
Marco Polo mentions : " And it is a fact that when the Soldan of
Babylon went against the city of Acre" (in a.d. 1291) "this Soldan of
Aden sent to his assistance 30,000 horsemen and 40,000 camels, to
the great help of the Saracens and the grievous injury of the Christians.
He did this a great deal more for the hate he bears the Christians
than for any love he bears the Soldan." This was the Mameluke
Sultan Malik Ashraf KhaliL
Aden was taken from the Arabs by the British on the 16th
of January 1839 (see the Aden Handbook, by Captain F. M. Hunter).
It was attacked by the Abdalis and Fadthelis on the 11th of November
in that year, but they were repulsed with the loss of 200 kille<iand
wounded. The united Arab tribes made a second attack on the 22nd
of May 1840, but failed after losing many men. On the 5th of July
1840 a third attack took place, but the assailants, Abdalis and Fad-
thelis, were driven back and lost 300 men. In January 1846 Saiyad
Ismail, after preaching a jihad, or religious war, in Mecca, attacked this
place, and was easily repulsed. A series of murders then commenced.
On tiie 29th of May 1860 a seaman and a boy of H. E. I. C. steam-
frigate Auckland were killed while picking up shells on the N. shore
of the harbour. On the 28th of February 1851 Captain Milne, com-
missariat officer, and a party of officers, went to Wahat, in the Lahej
territory. At midnight a fanatic mortally wounded Captain Milne,
who died next day, severely wounded Lieutenant MTherson, of the
78th Highlanders, slightly wounded Mr. Saulez, and got clear away.
On the 27 th March following, another fanatic attacked and severely
wounded Lieutenant Delisser of the 78th Highlanders, but was killed
by that officer with his own weapon. On the 12th of July in the same
vear, the mate and one sailor of the ship Sons of Gommercey wrecked
near Qhubet Sailan, were murdered. In 1858, 'Ali bin Muhsin,
Sultan of the Abdalis, gave so much trouble that Brigadier Coghlan,
Commandant at Aden, was compelled to march against him, when the
Azabs were routed with a loss of from 30 to 40 men, and with no
Digitized byLjOOQlC
xl ADEK India
casualties on our side. In December 1865, the Sultan of the Fadtheli
tribe, which has a seaboard of 100 m., extending from the boundary
of the Abdalis, attempted to blockade Aden on the land side ; but
was utterly routed by Lieut. -Col. Woolcombc, C.B., at Bir Said, 15
m. from the Barrier Gate. A force under Brigadier-General Raines,
C.B., then marched through the Abgar districts, which are the low-
lands of this tribe, and destroyed several fortified villages. Subse-
quently, in January 1866, aii expedition went from Aden by sea to
Shugrah, the chief port of the Fadthelis, 65 m. from Aden, and de-
stroyed the forts there. Since 1867 this tribe, which numbers 6700
fighting men, have adhered to their engagements. The Sultan of the
Abdalis, who inhabit a district 33 m. long and 8 broad to the N.N.W.
of Aden, and number about 8000 souls, was present in Bombay during
the Duke of Edinburgh's visit in February 1870, and is friendly. His
territory is called La Hej, and the capital is Al-Hautah, 21 m. from the
Barrier Gate (see expeditions, p. xliii.)
Aden is hot, but healthy. Snakes and scorpions are rather
numerous. The town is full of interest to the anthropologist, and a
visit to the bazaar in the afternoon is well worth the trouble. Wild
Arabs from the interior of Arabian Yemen, Turks, Egyptians, hideous
Swahelis from the coast of East Africa, Somalis from the untamed
shock-headed Bedouin to the more civilised ofl&cer's servant, Jews of
various sects, inhabitants of India, Parsis, British soldiers, Bombay
Macathas, and lastly the Jack-tar, are seen together in a motley
crowd.
The Crater used in former days to be the fortress of Aden. Now
modem science has converted " Steamer Point " into a seemingly im-
pregnable position ; the peninsula which the " Point *' forms to the
whole Crater being cut off by a fortified line which runs from
N. to S. just to the eastward of the coal wharfs. The harbour
mouth is swept by a powerful armament of 10" and 6" guns mounted
on " disappearing " hydraulic carriages in Forts Tarshine and Morbut
Batteries sweep the inner harbour and the approach by land from
the Main Pass and village of Ma'ala. The accuracy of the artillery
fire is ensured by " position finders " on the spurs of the mountain
Shumshum. The whole position bristles with quick-firing ordnance
of the latest patterns. The only fault that critics have found is
that too much has been spent on ordnance of unnecessarily large
calibre.
Inside the Light Ship the waXer shallows to 4 fathoms, and a large
steamer stirs up the mud with the keeL As soon as the vessel stops,
scores of little boats with one or two Somali boys in each paddle off
and surround the steamer, shouting "Overboard, overboard," and
" Have a dive, have a dive," also " Good boy, good boy," aU together,
with a very strong accent on the first syllable. The cadence is not
^^ Digitized by VjOOQIC
InirocL ADEN xli
trnpleasing. If a small coin is flung to them they all spring into the
water, and nothing is seen but scores of heels disappearing under the
surface as they dive for the money. Owing to a number of fatalities,
&om sharks, diving is prohibited in the S.W. monsoon months. Other
fish are almost as ravenous. In 1877 a rock cod between 5 and 6 ft.
long seized a man who was diving and tore off the flesh of his thigh.
The man's brother went down with a knife and killed the cod, which
was bronght ashore and photographed at Aden, as was the wounded
man.
As soon as the captain has fixed the hour at which he will leave
the port, a notice is posted, and then passengers generally start for the
shore to escape the dust and heat during coaling. All the ports are
eloeed, and the heat and closeness of the cabins will be found quite in-
sapportable.
No boat can ply for hire in Aden Harbour without a licence
&om the Conservator of the Port, and the number of the licence must
be displayed on the bow and stem, and also by each of the crew.
When asking payment the crew must exhibit the tables of fares and
rules, and any one asking prepayment is liable to fine or imprison-
ment. In case of dispute, recourse must be had to the nearest European
poKce oflScer. By special agreement a first-class boat may be engaged
for 4 fares, and a second-class boat for 3 fares. Every boat must have
a lantern at night A boat inspector attends at the Gun Wharf from 6
AJL to 11 P.M. to call boats, suppress irregularities, and give informa-
tion to passengers. After sunset passengers can lije landed only at the
Gun Wharf.
It takes from twelve to twenty minutes to land at the Post Office
Pier, which is broad and sheltered. The band occasionally plays
^ere^ To the left, after a walk or drive of a mile, one arrives at
&e hotels. There is also a large shop for wares of all kinds kept
by a Parsi
Land Conveyances
Every conveyance must have the number of its licence and the
number of persons it can carry painted on it. A table of fares must
be fixed on some conspicuous part of the conveyance, and the driver
must wear a badge with the number of his licence, and must not
demand prepayment of his fare. From Isthmus to the Point the fare
is the same as from Town to Point. The Point signifies any inhabited
part of Steamer Fomt, the name given to the part of the peninsula off
vUch the steamers lie.
Condensers
At a short distance N. of the hotels is a condenser belonging to a
pfrmte proprietor. There are three such condensers belonging to
Digitized by VjOOQIC
xlii ADEN India
Government, and several the property of private companies, and by
these and an aqueduct from Sheikh Othman, 7 m. beyond the Barrier
Qate, Aden is supplied with water. Condensed water costs from about
2 rs. per 100 gallons.
The Tajiks
Besides these there are tanks, which are worth a visit The
distance to them from the pier is about 5 m. Altogether there
are about fifty tanks in Aden, which if entirely cleared out,
would have an aggregate capacity of nearly 30,000,000 imperial
gallons. It is supposed that they were commenced about the second
Persian invasion of Yaman in 600 a.d. Mr. Salt, who saw them
in 1809, says, ^'The most remarkable of these reservoirs consists
of a line of cisterns situated on the N.W. side of the town, three of
which are fully 80 ft. wide and proportionally deep, all excavated
out of the solid rock, and lined with a thick coat of fine stucco. A
broad aqueduct may still be traced which formerly conducted the
water to these cisterns from a deep ravine in the mountain above;
higher up is another still entire, which at the time we visited it was
partly filled with water.'' In 1856 the restoration of these magnifi-
cent works was undertaken (see the Aden Handbook, by Captain F. M.
Hunter). And thirteen have been completed, capable of holding
8,000,000 gallons of water. The range of hills which was the crater
of Aden is nearly circular. On the W. side the hills are precipitous,
and the rain that descends from them rushes speedily to the sea. On
the E. side the descent is broken by a tableland winding between the
summit and the sea, which occupies a quarter of the entire superficies
of Aden. The ravines which intersect this plateau converge into one
valley, and a very moderate fall of rain suffices to send a considerable
torrent down it. This water is partly retained in the tanks which were
made to receive it, and which are so constructed that the overflow of
the upper tank falls into a lower, aud so on in succession. As the annual
rainfall at Aden did not exceed 6 or 7 in., Malik al Mansur, King of
Yaman, at the close of the 15th century built an aqueduct to bring the
water of the Bir Hamid into Aden (see Playfair's History of Yaman).
The Salt Pcuis on the way to Sheikh Othman are curious. The sea-
water is pumped into shallow pans cut out of the earth, and allowed
to evaporate, and the salt which remains is collected. It belongs
to an Italian company, who pay royalty on every ton of salt procured.
The Keith-Falconer Medical Mission at Sheikh Othman, as well as
Steamer Point, was established by the Hon. Ion Keith - Falconer,
Arabian Prtjfessor, Cambridge, who died there. His tomb, erected by
the Dowager Countess of Kintore, of fine Carrara marble, is in the
military cemetery of Aden. The Mission, under the care of the
doctors of the Free Church of Scotland, is most popular. At Steamer
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Inirod. aden xliii
Point there are three churches for the troops, Anglican, Scottish, and
Roman. In the Crater there are two churches.
Expeditions
There is no risk attending an expedition at any time in the day
I beyond the Barrier Gate up to Sheikh Othman, distant about 5 m.
Parties of officers now go shooting without being troubled in the
I Abdali country, within a radius of 20 m.
An expedition should be made, if a few days' stay at Aden is
poerible, to Al-Hautah. There is a Dak Bungalow provided by the
Saltan of La Hej, with bed -cots and crockery, etc., and cooking
iitensik Food should be taken from Aden, where also camels for
riding can be procured by application to the Commissariat officer.
Fhe PoUtical Resident is always pleased to give every attention to any
application for permission. The Sultan of Al-Hautah is most generous
in his provision for strangers. It is the custom to call upon him.
After leaving Aden the only land usually approached by steamers
tx)iind for India is the Island of SoootiB., which is about 150 m.
E. of Cape Guardafui, the E. point of the African continent The
island is 71 ul long, and 22 broad. Most of the surface is a tableland
about 800 ft above sea-leveL The capital is Tamarida or Hadibu, on
the N. coast. The population is only 4000, or 4 to the square mile.
It is pohtically a British possession subordinate to Aden, but adminis-
tered in its internal affairs by its own chiefs.
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xliv
THB PEOPLE OF INDIA — MOHAMMEDANS
India
THE PEOPLE OF INDIA
The census of 1891 gave the population of India and Burma a^
follows : —
British
Feudatory .
Portuguese .
French
Area in
Square Miles.
Population.
Persons per
Square Mile.
961,994
695,313
1,086
178
221,118,264
66,050,479
481,467
282,923
229
110
\ chiefly in
j towns
1,558,671
287,928,133
184
Of this total of 288,000,000 about 150,000 are British bom, of
whom one half are soldiers. The army of British India compiisee : —
British Troops 74,000
Native 145,000
219,000
In addition there are Native Reserves, 15,000 ; Imperial Service
Troops furnished by Native States, 19,000 ; and European or Eurasian
Volunteers, 27,000, making altogether 61,000 additional men trained
by British officers. The Native States have semi -trained troops
which are not included in this list.
There are four races in India — ^the aborigines, or non-Aryans ; the
pure Aryans, or twice -born castes ; the Mohammedans ; and the
Hindus, a blend of Aryans and non- Aryans, who form the bulk ol
the population.
The census of 1891 gave, in round numbers, the following religious
statistics : —
Brahmanic .
Animist (non- Aryan)
Mohammedan
Buddhist .
207,700,000
9,300,000
67,300,000
7,100,000
Christian
Sikh .
Jain
Zoroastrian
2,300,000
1,900,000
1,400,000
90,000
THE MOHAMMEDANS .
(strictly Muhammad, "the praised**)
Mohammed (strictly Muhammad, "the praised**) was bom a1
Mecca in 570 A.D., his father being a poor merchant who died soon
after the birth of his son. When twenty-five years old he became
manager or agent to a rich widow named Khadija, who, although
fifteen years his senior, offered him marriage. By her he had two sons
who died young, and four daughters, of whom the best known h
Fatima. At the age of forty he received the first divine communica-
Digitized byLjOOQlC
Introd. THE MOHAMMEDANS xlv
don in the solitude of the mountain Hira, near Mecca. The angel
Gabriel apx>eared, and commanded him to preach the new religion.
The Meccans persecuted him; his wife and uncle died; and he became
poTertj - stricken. In June 622 he fled to Medina, where he was
accepted as a prophet. He made war upon the Meccans, and finally
succeeded in capturing Mecca, where he was then recognised as chief
I and prophet He died in the arms of his favourite wife Ayesha, on
the 8th June 632.
The chief tenet of the Mohammedan religion is Islam, which means
resignation, submission to the will of Qod, In its dogmatical form it
is Imam (faith), in its practical Din (religion). The fundamental
principle is, " There is no God but Gkxi ; and Mohammed is God's
prophet," There are four great duties. 1. Daily prayers. These should
tike place five times a day — at sunset, nightfall, daybreak, noon, and
^moon. 2. The giving of alms. 3. The fast of Ramazan. 4. A
pilgrimage to Mecca. In the Koran (much of which was dictated by
ifobammed), a holy war or Jihad is enjoined as a religious duty,
rhe Mohammedans believe in resurrection, heaven, and hell. In
heaven are all manner of sensuous delights. In heU all who deny
the unity of Qod will be tortured eternally. There is a separate
heaven for women, but most of them will find their way to hell.
Mohfiunmed enjoined care in ablution of the hands, mouth, and nose,
before eating or praying. The Koran forbids the drinking of wine,
or the eating of the flesh of swine. Usury, and games of chance are
prohibited, and the laws against idolatry are very stringent. Every
man may have four wives, and some concubine slaves, but he must
not look upon the face of any other woman except a near relative.
Hope and fear, reward and punishment, with a belief in predestina-
tion, form the system of faith. It is contrary to the religion of
Mohammed to make any figure or representation of anything living.
There are two main Mohammedan sects. According to the Sunnis the
.^ret four caliphs (representatives) after Mohammed are Abubekr,
Onaar, Othman, and Ali in that order. The Shias consider that Ali
was the first, excluding the other three.
Eras. — ^The Mohammedan era of the Hijrah takes its name from
the ** departure ** of Mohammed from Mecca to Medina on Friday the
116th of July 622 A.D. This date was ordered by the Khalifah Umar
;to be used as their era by Mohammedans. Their year consists of
'{twelve lunar months, as follows : —
Ihharrani ... 30 days.
&&r .... 29
SOiolavval 80
Mus-aani . . 29
Slomda '1 awal . 30
Aooada 's-sani . . 29 ..
= 354 days.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Rajah .
30
Sh'aban.
29
Ramazan
30
Shawwal
29
Zik'adah
30
Zi hijjah
29
Xlvi MOHAMMEDAN FESTIVALS ItuIm
Their year, therefore, is 1 1 days short of the solar year, and their
New Year's Day is every year 1 1 days earlier than in the preceding year.
In every 30 years the month Zi hijjah is made to consist 11 times of
30 days instead of 29, which accounts for the 9 hours in the lunar
year, which = 354 days, 9 hours. To bring the Hijrah year into ac-
cordance with the Christian year, express the former in years and
decimals of a year, and multiply by -970225, add 621*54, and the
total will correspond exactly to the Christian year. Or to effect the
same correspondence roughly, deduct 3 per cent from the Hijrah year,
add 621*54, and the result will be the period of the Christian year
when the Mohammedan year begins. All trouble, however, of com-
parison is saved by Dr. Ferdinand Wiistenfeld's Comparative Tables,
Leipzig, 1854.
The Tarilch Ilahi, or Era of Akba/r, and the Fasli or Harvest Era
These eras begin from the commencement of Akbar's reign on Friday
the 6th of Rabi ua-sani, 963 a.h.= 19th of February 1556. To make
them correspond with the Christian, 593 must be added to the former.
Mohammedan Festivals
Bakari *Id, held on the 10th of Zi hijjah in memory of Abraham's
offering of Ishmael, which is the version of the Koran. Camels,
cows, sheep, goats, kids, or lambs are sacrificed.
Muharram, a fast in remembrance of the death of Hasan and
Husain, the sons of 'Ali by Fatimah the daughter of Mohammed.
Hasan was poisoned by Yezid in 49 A.H., and Husain was murdei'ed at
Karbala on the 10th of Muharram, 61 a.h. = 9th October 680 a.d.
The fast begins on the Ist of Muharram and lasts 10 days. Moslems
of the Shi'ah persuasion assemble in the T'aziyah Khana, house of
mourning. On the night of the 7th an image of Burak, the animal
(vehicle) on which Mohammed ascended to heaven, is carried in proces-
sion, and on the 10th a Tabut or bier. The Tabuts are thrown into
the sea, or other water, and in the absence of water are buried in the
earth. The mourners move in a circle, beating their breasts with cries
of '* Ai 1 Hasan. Ai ! Husain.'' At this time the fanatical spirit is
at its height, and serious disturbances often take place (see Hobson
Jobson in Yule's Glossary of Anglo-Indian Terms),
Akhiri Ghahar Shanibahj held on the last Wednesday of Safar, when
Mohammed recovered a little in his last illness and bathed for the last
time. It is proper to write out seven blessings, wash off the ink and
drink it, as also to bathe and repeat prayers.
Bari Wafat^ held on the 13th of Rabi ul avval in memory of Mo-
hammed's death, 1 1 a.h.
Pir-i'Dastgiry held on the 10th of Rabi us-sani in honour of
Saiyad 'Abdul Kadir Gilani, called Pir Piran or Saint of Saints, who
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Introd. MOHAMMEDAN DATES xlvii
taught and died at Baghdad. During epidemics a green flag is carried
in his name.
Chiraghom-^r-Zindah Shah Madar, held on the 17th of Jumada '1
avral in honour of a saint who lived at Makkhanpur, and who is
thought to be still alive, whence he is called Zindah, " living."
Urs-i-Kadvr JFaU, held on the 11th of Jumada's-sani, in honour of
Khwajah Mu*in-ud-din Chisti, who was buried at A j mere in 628 a.h.
Muraj'i-Mvharnmad, held on the 25th of Rajab, when the Prophet
ascended to heaven.
Shdb'i'barat^ night of record, held on the 16th of Sh'aban,
when they say men's actions for next year are recorded. The
Koran ought to be read all night, and the next day a fast should
be observed.
BaTnazany the month-long h&t of the Mohammedans. The night
if the 27th is called Lailatu '1-Kadr, "night of power," because the
£(»ran came down from heaven on that night.
*Idu 'l-fttr, the festival when the fast of the Bamazan is broken.
The evening is spent in rejoicing and in exhibitions of the Nantch girls.
ChircLghan-i-Bamdah Nwwaa, held on the 16th of Zik'adah in
honour of a saint of the Chisti family, who is buried at Ealbarga and
is also called Gisu Daraz, ^' long ringlets."
Some Mohammedan Dates AFrEcriNG India
A.D.
Birth of Mohammed , 570
His departure from Mecca to Medina. The h\jrah era . . 622
His death 632
Arab invasions of Sind 647-828
Ifahmud of Ghazni defeats the Rajputs at Peshawar 1001
Mahmud captures Somnath in Guzerat, and carries off the temple
gates to Ghazni 1024
The Afghans of Ghor capture Ghazni 1152
Mohammed of Ghor captures Delhi 1193
\utb-ud-din (originally a slave) proclaims himself sovereign of
India at Delhi 1206
Altamsh extends the empire of the slave dynasty 1229
Ala>nd-din conquers Southern India ; defeats several Mogul in-
vaaions from Central Asia 1295-1315
Timur, or Tamerlane, sacks Delhi 1398
Babar the Mogul, sixth in descent from Timur, defeats the Afghan
Saltans of Delhi, at the battle of Panipat 1524
Babar defeats the Rajputs at Fatehpur Sikri near Agra . 1527
Akbar defeats the Afgnans at Panipat 1556
Akbur conquers the Rajputs, annexes Bengal, Guzerat, Sind,
Cashmere, and Kandahar .1561-94
Death of Akbar at Agra 1605
Commencement of the struggle between the Mogul Emperor and
tiMMarathas 1688
Anmagzeb captures Sambhaji, the son of the Maratha chief Sivaji,
wi puts him to death 1689
Digitized by VjOOQIC
xlviii SOVEREIGNS WHO REIGNED AT DELHI India
A.D.
Death of Atuningzeb ; decline of the Mognl power .... 1707
Rajputana lost to the Mofful 1715
Defeat and persecution of the Sikhi, the Mogul putt their leader
Banda to death with cruel tortures 1716
Kabul severed from the Moguls 1738
Nadir Shah, king of Persia, sacks Delhi 1739
The Marathas obtain Malwa ; Oude becomes independent of Delhi 1743
Hyderabad becomes independent 1748
The Marathas obtain Southern Orissa ; and tribute from Bengal . 1751
Invasion of the Afghan Ahmad Shah Durani, and cession of
Punjab to him 1751-2
Ahmad Shah Durani sacks Delhi 1758
The Marathas capture Delhi 1759
Defeat of the Marathas by the Afghans at the battle of Panipat . 1761
General Lake captures Delhi 1803
List of Soybbeigns who bKigned at Delhi from 1193 to 1837 a.d.
The PathcMi, Afghan, or Qhori Kmgs qf Hindustan who reigned at Delhi,
Muhammad bin Sam, Ist Dynasty .
Kutb-ud-din
Aram Shah
Shams-ud-din Altamsh .
Ruknu-din Feroz ....
Sultanah Riziah ....
Bahram
A'lau-din
Kasirn-din Mahmud
Balhan
Eaikubad
Jelalu-din Feroz Shah, 2nd Dynasty.
Kuknu-din Ibrahim ....
'Alau-din Muhammad
Shahabu-din *Umar ....
Kutbu-din Mubarak
Nasiru-din Ehusru ....
Ghiasu-din Tnghlak Srd Dynasty
Muhammad bin Tughlak .
Feroz Shah
Tughlak
Abubakr
Muhammad Shah . . . .
Sikander
Mahmud
Nusrat Shah
Mahmud restored ....
Daulat Ehan Lodi . . . .
Ehizr Khan Sa'id, ith Dynasty
Mubarak Shah II
Muhammad Shah
'Alam Shah
Bahlol Lodi, 5th Dynasty
Sikandar
Ibrahim
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A.H.
A.D.
589
1193
602
1206
607
1210
607
1211
638
1236
634
1236
637
1240
639
1242
643
1246
664
1266
686
1289
689
1200
696
1296
695
1296
716
1816
716
1316
720
1821
720
1321
725
1325
752
1851
790
1388
791
1389
793
1891
795
1893
795
1398
797
1395
802
1400
816
1413
817
1414
824
1421
887
1434
849
144S
855
1451
894
148f
923
161^
Intnd.
THE HINDUS
xlix
The Mogul Emperors of HvndtLstcm,
Babar
Hnmayim
Akbar
Jekngir
ShahJehan
Anrangzeb
Bahadur Shah
Jakndar Sh^
Famikhsiyar . .
Rjfiu-darjat
Mu-daulat
Nuhammad Shah
ilunadShah
'ilamgirll
WAlam ;
Akbar II. ........
Bahadur Shah .......
A.H.
A.D.
899
1494
937
1531
963
1556
1014
1605
1037
1628
1068
1658
1118
1707
1124
1718
1124
1718
1131
1719
1131
1719
1131
1719
1162
1748
1168
1754
1173
1759
1221
1806
1252
1837
THE HINDUS
The first form of the Hindu religion was Vedism, the worship of
i»ature, as represented in the songs and prayers collectively called
^eda. Their chief gods were the triad Indra (rain), Agni (fire), and
Surya (sun). Then followed Brahmanism, from hrihy to expand, which
introduced the idea of a universal spirit, or essence, which permeated
tverything. Men, gods, and the visible world were merely its mani-
festations. Prose works, called Brahmanas, were added to the Vedas,
^ explain the sacrificeff, and the duties of the Brahmans, or priests.
"Hie oldest of these may have been written about 700 b.o. The code
of Mann, which is believed to have originated shortly before the
^^^iristian era, lays down the rules of domestic conduct and ceremony.
^t divides Hindus into four castes. First, the Brahmans ; second,
'^e warriors, called Kshattriyas or Rajputs, literally " of the royal
^ock"; third, the agricultural settlers, called Vaisyas. All these
^ing of Aryan descent^ were honoured by the name of the Twice-born
"*8te8. Fourth, were the Sudras, or conquered non- Aryan tribes, who
*<»me serfs. They were not allowed to be present at the great
'•^wnal sacrifices, or at the feasts, and they were given the severest
toO in the fields, and the dirty work of the village community. The
^JertB asserted that they, the Brahmans, came from the mouth of
^^•IfflMi ; the Rajputs or Kshattriyas from his arms ; the Vaisyas from
^tkighs; and the Sudras from his feet Caste was originally a dis-
^ndia] ^ ^ ^ ^ Googfe
1 THE HINDUS India
tinction between priest, soldier, artisan, and menial Each trade in
time came to have a separate caste. The priests insisted on the rales
of caste as a means of securing their own social supremacy.
The modem Hindu religion is a development of Brahmanism.
There is one impersonal and spiritual Being which pervades everything
— one Gk>d, called Brahma. His three personal manifestations are as
Brahma, the Creator ; Vishnu, the Preserver ; and Siva, the Destroyer
and Reproducer. Brahma, the Creator, is generally represented with
four heads and four arms, in which he holds a portion of the Veda, a
spoon for lustral observations, a rosary, and a vessel of lustral water
(see Plate). Sarasvati, the wife of Brahma, rides on a peacock, and
has a musical instrument, the " vina," in her arms. She is the goddess
of music, speech, the arts, and literature. The sin of lying is readily
expiated by an offering to her (see Plate).
Vishnu holds a quoit in one hand, a conk shell in another, and I
sometimes a mace or club in another, and a lotus flower in a fourth
(see Plate). A common picture shows him with his wife, Lakshmi,
sitting on Naga, the snake (eternity), with Brahma springing on a
lotus from his navel (see Plate). He is said to have come down from
heaven to the earth nine times, and is expected a tenth time. These
ten incarnations (avatara, or descents) are — (1) a fish ; (2) a tortoise ;
(3) a boar ; (4) a man lion ; (5) a dwarf ; (6) Parasu rama ; (7) RamnOy
the hero of the epic poem, the Ramayana. His wife, Sita, was carried
off by Havana, the tyrant king of Ceylon, and recovered by Rama after
making a bridge of rocks to the island. He was aided by Hanuman,
a non-Aryan chief. Rama carries a bow and arrows (see Plate). He is
revered throughout India as the model of a son, a brother, and a hus-
band. When friends meet it is common for them to salute each other
by uttering Rama's name twice. No name is more commonly given
to children, or more commonly invoked at funerals and in the hour of
death. Hanvwman is represented as a monkey, his images being
smeared with vermilion (see Plate). He is worshipped as the model
of a faithful devoted servant (8) Krishna,, whose biography is given
in the epic poem, Mahabharata, although himself a powerful chief, was
brought up among peasants, and is peculiarly the god of the lower
classes. As a boy he killed the serpent Kaliya by trampling upon his
head. He lifted the mountain-range Qovardhana on his finger to
shelter the herdsmen's wives from the wrath of Indra, the Vedic rain-
god. Krishna had countless wives and 108,000 sons. He is a sen-
suous god. He stands on a snake with his left hand holding its body,
and a lotus in his right (see Plate). He is painted blue. Sometimes
he is playing the flute. (9) Buddha. The adoption of Buddha as one
of the incarnations was a compromise with Buddhism. (10) Kalki.
Vishnu will descend as an armed warrior on a winged white horse
for the purpose of dissolving the universe at the close of the fourth or
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Mrod. THE HINDUS li
Kali age, of 432,000 years, when the world has become wholly
depraved-
Devotion to Vishnu in his human incarnations of Rama and
Krishna (who were real men) is the most popular religion of India.
His descents upon earth were for the delivery of men from the three-
fold miseries of life, viz. (1) from lust, anger, avarice, and their evil
consequences ; (2) from beasts, snakes, wicked men, etc, ; (3) from
demons. Vishnu has power to elevate his worshippers to eternal
bliss in his own heaven.
Vishnu's wife Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and beauty, sprang
from the froth of the ocean when churned by gods and demons (see
Pkte). An image of her is often to be found in the houses of shop-
keepers.
Siva is also called Mahadeva, the great god, and his wife who is
known by several names and in several characters as Parvati (see Plate)
be goddess of beauty, Durga or Kali, the terrible (see Plate), is also
tailed Devi, the goddess (see Plate). The commonest of these is Kali,
vho requires to be propitiated by sacrifices (see Plate). Siva holds
% trident, an antelope, a noose for binding his enemies, and a kind
of drum in his four hands, and wears a tiger's skin about the loins
(see Plate). He is a less human and more mystical god than Vishnu,
and is worshipped in the form of a symbol, the linga, or as a bulL
In his character of destroyer Siva haunts cemeteries and burning-
uTounds, but his terrible qualities are now more especially associated
with his wife Kali. He is the impersonation of the reproductive power
of nature, the word Siva meaning "blessed" or "auspicious." He
is the typical ascetic and self-mortifier. And as a learned philosopher
he is the chief god of the priests.
Siva has two sons Ganesh, or Ganpati, and Kartikkeya. Ganesh has
i fat body and an elephant's head (see Plate). He is a great favourite,
being worshipped for good luck or success. It is as a bringer of success
Jiat he is invoked at the beginning of every Indian book. Kartikkeya
lias six heads and twelve arms, and is a warlike god, the leader of the
kets of good demons (see Plate). In the south of India he is called
Skanda or Subrahmanya.
The Hindu theory of metempsychosis, or transmigration of souls,
arises from the belief that evil proceeds from antecedent evil, and that
the penalty must be suffered in succeeding existences. According to
Hindu belief there are eighty-four laks of different species of animals
diroiigh which the soul of a man is liable to pass, and the Hindu's
object is to get rid of the series of perpetual transmigrations so that he
may live in the same heaven with the personal god. To this end he
makes offerings to the image of a god, Krishna, Ganesh, or Kali being
the most generally selected ; he abstains from killing any animal ; he
givw money to the priests ; and does penances which sometimes extend
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Hi THS HINDUS India
to severe bodily torture. His religion amounts to little more than the
fear of demons, of the loss of caste, and of the priests. Demons have
to be propitiated, the caste rules strictly kept, and the priests presented
with gifts. Great care has to be taken not to eat food cooked by a
man of inferior caste ; food cooked in water must not be eaten together
by people of different castes, and the castes are entirely separated with
regard to marriage and trades. A sacred thread of cotton is worn by
the higher castes. Washing in any holy river, particularly the Qanges,
and more especially at Allahabad, Benares, Hard war, and other excep-
tionally holy spots, is of great efficacy in preserving caste, and cleansing
the soul of impurities.
The traveller should remember that all who are not Hindus are
outcasts, contact with whom may cause the loss of caste to a Hindu.
He should not touch any cooking or water-holding utensil belongingj
to a Hindu, nor disturb Hindus when at their meals ; he should not
molest a cow, or shoot any sacred animal, and should not pollute holy
places by his presence if any objection is made. The most sacred of
all animals is the cow, then the serpent and the monkey. The eagle
(Gkiruda) is the attendant of Vishnu, the bull of Siva, the goose of
JBrahma, the elephant of Indra, the tiger of Durga, the buffalo of Rama,
the rat of Qanesh, the ram of Agni, the peacock of Eartikkeya, the
ps^rot of Kama (the god of love) ; the fish, tortoise, and boar are
incarnations of Vishnu ; and the crocodile, cat> dog, crow, many trees,
plants, stones, rivers and tanks, ^re sacred.
The Kali-Yvg^ or Hindu Era
According to the Hindus, the world is now in its 4th Yug, or Age,
the Kali- Yug, which commenced from the equinox in 18th Feb. 3102
B.C., and will last 432,000 years. The 3 preceding ages were the
Satya, the Treta, and the Dwapara. The Satya, or Age of Truth,
lasted 1,728,000 years; the Treta (from tra^ "to preserve") lasted
1,296,000; and the Dwapara (from dwa, "two," and pa/r^ "after")
864,000 years.
The Era of Vilcramaditya or Samtoat
This era commenced from the first year of King Vikramaditya, who
began to reign at Ujjain 57 b.c.
The Shaka Era, or Era of Shalivahana
Shalivahana, having a shall (lion) for his vehicle (vahana), was a
king who reigned in the S. of India. The Shaka era dates from his
birth 78 A.D.
Era of Pa/rashurama
This era is current in Malabar and Travancore, and dates from a
king of that name, who reigned 1176 A.D.
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PLATE 1
4
1
s
*7a
Lakshmi
1
)
Pafu^tj
C^^^c-,.^/-.
j^D^rga or Kali
Dew
Kartikket/a
Ganesh
Hanuman
Rama
To face p. m.
Some Common Forms of Hindu Gods
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PLATE 2.
Some Common Forms of Hindu Gods,
y u
o
5
1,2,8, and 4, Followers of Vishrni.
5, 6, 7, and 8, Followers of Siva.
Caste Marks.
; Buddha
( Teaching)
Buddha
(ConteMpkting)
Buddha.
Buddha
(ReyiouMcingthe WorJdJ
TofoUow Plate 1 after p. lii.^
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Introd.
HINDU FESTIVALS
liii
The Hindu year has 6 seasons or ritiis : Vasantay " spring/* gnshma^
"the hot season/' varsha, "the rains," sharada, "the autumn" (from
shri, "to wither"), hemanta, "the winter," shisMra, "the cool season."
Table of the Seasons and Months in Sanscrit, ffiTuht, and English
1. Vasanta .
2. Gbishma .
3. Varsha . .
4. Sharada .
5. Hemanta .
6. Shishira .
Names of Months.
Sanscrit.
Hindu.
English.
/ Chaitra.
t Vaishakha.
/ lyeshtha.
1 A'shadha.
J Sravana.
1 Bhadra.
J Ashwina.
iKartika.
/ Marffasirsha.
1 Paaiha.
/Magha.
1 Phalgona.
Chait.
Baisakh.
Jeth.
Asarh.
Sawan.
Bhadon.
Asan.
Kartik.
Aghan.
Pus.
Magh.
Phagun.
April
May. )
June. }
July. 1
August, j
September. \
October. \
November. \
December. /
January.
February.
March.
Hindu Festivals
MaJcar Sankrcmti, — On the 1st of the month Magh (about 12th
January) the sun enters the sign Capricorn or Makar. From this day
till the arrival of the sun at the N. point of the zodiac the period is
called Uttarayana, and from that time till he returns to Makar is
Dakshinayana, the former period being lucky and the latter unlucky.
At this festival the Hindus bathe, and rub themselves with sesamum
oiL They also invite Brahmans and give them pots full of sesamum
seed. They wear new clothes with ornaments, and distribute sesamum
seed mixed with sugar.
Vasamt Panchami is on the 5th day of the light half of Magh, and
is a festival in honour of Vasanta or Spring.
Shdvaraij the night of Shiva, is held about the middle or end of
February, when Shiva is worshipped with flowers during the whole
night.
HoH. — ^A festival in honour of Krishna, held fifteen days before the
moon is at its fcdl, in the month Phagun, celebrated with the squirting
or throwing of red or yellow powder over every one. All sorts of licence
are indulged in. It is a kind of carnival.
Qudhfi Pada/va, on the Ist of Chait. The leaves of the Melia
Azadvr<ichia are eaten. On this day the New Year commences, and
the Almanac for that year is worshipped.
Ramanavami, held on the 9th of Chait, in honour of Eamachan-
dra, who was bom on this day at Ayodhya. A small image of Rama
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liv HINDU FESTIVALS India
is put into a cradle and worshipped, and red powder called giUal is
thrown about.
Vada SavUri, held on the 15th of Jeth, when women worship
the Indian fig tree.
Ashadhi Ekadashiy the 1 1th of the month Asarh, sacred to Yishnn,
when that deity reposes for 4 months.
Nag Paruiiham% held on the 5th of Sawan, when the serpent Kali
is said to have been killed by Krishna. Ceremonies are performed to
avert the bite of snakes.
NaraU Pumimay held on the 1 5th of Sawan. The stormy season
is then considered over, and oflPerings of cocoa-nuts are thrown into the
sea on the west coast.
Gokul Ashtami, held on the 8th of the dark half of Sawan, when
Krishna is said to have been bom at Qokul. Rice may not be eaten on thii
day, but fruits and other grains. At night Hindus bathe and worship
an image of Krishna, adorning it with the Ocymum sanctum. The
chief votary of the temple of Kanhoba dances in an ecstatic fashion, and
is worshipped and receives large presents. He afterwards scourges the
spectators.
Pitri Amavasyay held on the 30th of Sawan, when Hindus go
to Yalkeshwar in Bombay and bathe in the tank called the Banganga,
which is said to have been produced by Kama, who pierced the
ground with an arrow and brought up the water. Shraddas or cere-
monies in honour of departed ancestors are performed on the side ol
the tank.
Oam^esh GhaJtwihi^ held on the 4th of Bhadon, in honour ol
Ganesh, a clay image of whom is worshipped and Brahmans are
entertained. The Hindus are prohibited from looking at the moon
on this day, and if by accident they should see it, they get
themselves abused by their neighbours in the hope that this wil]
remove the curse.
BiM, PancJiarm, held on the day following Gkmesh Chaturthi, ii
honour of the 7 Rishia
Gauri Vahan, held on the 7th of Bhadon, in honour of Shiva'i
wife, called Qauri or the Fair. Cakes in the shape of pebbles are eatei
by women.
Woman Dwadashi, on the 12th of Bhadon, in honour of the 5tl
incarnation of Vishnu, who assumed the shape of a dwarf to destroj
Bali
Anamt Chaturdashiy held on the 14th of Bhadon, in honour d
Ananta, the endless serpent I
Pitri PaJe»hy held on the last day of Bhadon, in honour of thii
Pitras or Ancestors, when oflPerings of fire and water are made v
them.
Daaara, held on the 10th of Asan, in honour of Durga, who
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Introd, THE BUDDHISTS Iv
this day slew the buffalo-headed demon Maheshasiir. On this day
Bama marched against Havana, and for this reason the Marathas chose
it for their expeditions. Branches of the Bviea frondosa are offered at
the temples. This is an auspicious day for sending children to school.
The 9 preceding days are called Navaratra, when Brahmans are paid to
ledte hymns to Durga.
DiwcUi, " feast of lamps/' from dfimif " a lamp," and ali, " a row,"
held on the new moon of Kartik, in honour of Kali or Bhawani, and
more particularly of Lakshmi, when merchants and bankers count their
wealth and worship it It is said that Vishnu killed a giant on that
day, and the women went to meet him with lighted lamps. In
memory of this lighted lamps are set afloat in rivers and in the sea,
and auguries are drawn from them according as they shine on or are
extinguislied.
Bali Pratipada is held on the 1st day of Kartik, when Hindus fill
a basket with rubbish, put a lighted lamp on it, and throw it away
outside the house, saying, ** Let troubles go and the kingdom of Bali
come."
Kartik Ekadashiy held on the 11th of Kartik, in honour of Vishnu,
who is said then to rise from a slumber of 4 months.
Kartik Pumvma, held on the full moon of Kartik, in honour of
Shiva, who destroyed on that day the demon Tripurasura.
THE BUDDHISTS
Gkiutama, afterwards called Buddha (the enlightened), was bom in
the sixth century B.C. His father was a prince of the Sakya tribe, and
of the Kshattriya or Rajput caste. Driving in his pleasure grounds
Qautama met a man bowed down with age ; then a man stricken with
incurable disease ; then a corpse ; and finally an ascetic walking in a
calm and dignified manner. Much troubled by the spectacle of human
suffering, he decided to leave his happy home, his loved wife, and the
child which had just been born to him ; he cut off his long hair ;
exchanged his princely raiment for the rags of a passer-by ; and went
on alone as a homeless beggar. This is called the Great Renunciation.
He studied under two Brahman hermits in the Patna district, who
taught him to mortify the body. For six years he inflicted severe
austerities upon himself, and gradually reduced his food to a grain of
rice per diem. But no peace of mind or divine enlightenment came.
He thereupon gave up penance and sat in meditation under a fig tree
(the Pipal), where he was tempted by Mara, the personification of
carnal desire, to return to his home and the world, but he resisted and
thns became the Enlightened.
Buddha taught that all life is suffering ; that suffering arises from
indulging desires, especially the desire for continuity of life ; and that
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Ivi BUDDHIST FESTIVALS India
the only hope of relief lies in the suppression of desire and the ex-
tinction of existence. A man's object should be to become enlightened
by meditation and introspection, so as to earn a cessation of the cycle
of lives through which he would otherwise be destined to pass, and
thus finally to reach nirvana, which puts an end to all re^ birth. He
should accumulate merit with the object of annihilating all conscious-
ness of self; he should respect the life of all creation in order to earn
the extinction of his own. In this task he must depend upon himself
alone, and not upon any spiritual aid or guidance. ^1 men are
capable of attaining nirvana, without distinction of caste, and neither
sacrifices nor bodily mortifications are of any avaiL It is a pessimist
and atheist creed, to which, however, excellent moral rules have been
attached. Buddhism gave some encouragement to education ; it in-
culcated universal benevolence and compassion; and stimulated exertion
by declaring that a man's future depended, not upon sacrifices and
self-torture, but upon his own acts. It is *' the embodiment of the
eternal verity that as a man sows he will reap ; associated with the
personal duties of mastery over self and kindness to all men ; and
quickened into a popular religion by the example of a noble and
beautiful life" (Sir W. W. Hunter). "It substituted a religion of
emotion and sympathy for one of ceremonial and do^ma " (H. G. Keene).
It never ousted Brahmanism from India, but the two systems existed
together from about b.c. 500 to a.d. 800, when it finally disappeared
from India (except Ceylon). Sir Monier Williams estimates that
there are not more than 100,000,000 Buddhists in the world, and
that this number is decreasing. Buddha is generally represented in
one of three attitudes ; he sits cross-legged, either with his hands in
contact in an attitude of profound meditation, or with one hand point-
ing to the earth, or with both hands raised in the preaching posture.
His ears sometimes reach to his shoulders (see Plate).
The small sect of Jains are the only Buddhists left in India (if
Ceylon be excluded). Their founder was Mahavira, a contemporary
of Qautama. The Jains consider bodily torture to be necessary to
salvation ; they do not agree with other Buddhists in denying the
existence of a soul, but believe that even inorganic matter has a soul,
and that a man's soul may pass into a stone. They carry the Buddhist's
concern for animal life to an extreme. Their figures of Buddha are
naked.
Buddhist Festivals
The New Year Festival corresponds to the Makara-sankranti of
the Hindus (see p. liii), but in Burma it often takes place as late as
April At a given moment, which is ascertained by the astrologers of
Mandalay, a cannon is fired off announcing the descent of the King of
the Naths (genii) upon earth. Then begin the Saturnalia.
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Inirod. HINDU AND BDDDHIST dates — THE SIKHS Ivii
The last birth of Qautama is celebrated at the end of April or
beginning of May by the worship of his images, followed by processions.
The festival of lamps, corresponding to the Hindu ** diwali " (see
p. \y,)y occurs at the end of the rainy season, and is a day of rejoicing.
In Ceylon the coming of the Buddha to their island is celebrated
by a festival in March or April, when the pilgrims visit either his
fbotprint on Adam's Peak, or the sacred £o-tree at Anuradhapura.
Some eablt Hindu and Buddhist dates
B.a
The Yedas or hymns (probably about) 1400-800
Birth of Gautama Buddha (the Enlightened) . (probably) 557
Death of Buddha ; First Great CounoU of Buddhists (probably) 478
Second Great Buddhist Council 378
Alexander the Great crosses the Indus near Attock ; defeats Poms
at the passage of the Jhelum (Hvdaspes) ; captures Mooltan, where
he is severely wounded ; and tnen retires to Persia via Karachi
and Baluchistan, leaving Greek garrisons behind him . 327-6
Chandra Gupta, a Hindu, conquers the Gangetio valley . 316
Chandra Gupta receives a Greek ambassador, named Megastheues . 306
Asoka, grandson of Chandra Gupta, is converted to Buddhism . 257
Asoka convenes the third Buddnist Council at Patna, and dissemi-
nates the principles of the faith 244
The Mahabharata, an epic poem of the heroic age in Northern
India ; the Ramayana, an epic poem relating to the Aryan advance
into Southern India (of about 1000 B.C.) ; and the code of Manu
laying down the laws and ceremonies for Brahmans — are all of
uncertain age, but may date from 200-500
The era of Samwat dates from Yikramadilhra, of Ujjain, who with-
stood the inroads of the Scythians. The drama of Sakuntala,
or the lost ring 57
A.D
The Northern form of Buddhism becomes one of the State religions
of China 66
The era of Saka dates from Salivahana 78
The fourth and last Buddhist Council held under the Scythian King
K%Tii«hVii. (about) 100
Pilgrimage of the Chinaman Fa Hiang to Buddhist shrines in India 400
Similar pilgrimage of the Chinaman fiiouen Thsang 629-45
The Vishnuite doctrines embodied in the Vishnu Purana . 1045
Birth of Nanak Shah, a Hindu reformer, who preaches the abolition
of caste and establiishes the Sikh religion 1469
THE SIKHS
The Sikhs are a sect of Hindus who follow a reformer named
Kaoak Shah, who was bom near Lahore in 1469. The word Sikh
means a " disciple " of the Guru or teacher. Except in denouncing
idolatry and in welcoming all ranks, without distinction of caste,
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Iviii THE 8IKHS India
Nanak's pliilosophy was very similar to that of the worshippers of
Vishnu. Quru Qovind finally abolished caste, established the Sikh
religion on a political and military basis, and stimulated the worship
of the Qranth, or holy book, which is now the chief Sikh god.
In the middle of the 16th century the Sikhs, who had been
gradually rising into power, struggled with the Afghans for supremacy
in the Punjab. In 1716 their last Quru, Banda, was tortured to
death by the Mogul In 1764 they fought a long and doubtful battle
with the Afghan Ahmad Shah Durani, in the vicinity of Amritsar.
They then captured Lahore, destroyed many mosques, and made their
Afghan prisoners, in chains, wash the foundations with the blood of
swine.
From this period, 1764, the Sikhs became the ruling power in the
Punjab. The following is a chronological table of their Gurus, or
spiritual leaders. Govind refused to name a successor. He said : —
" He who wishes to behold the Guru, let him search the Granth."
GUBUS OF THE SiKHS
A. Si.
1. Nanak, founder of the Sikh sect, born 1469, died .... 1539
2. ADi,ad 1562
3. Amara das ^ 1552
4. Ram das, built the lake temple at Amritsar 1574
5. Arjun Mai, compiled the Adi GrarUh 1581
6. Har Govind, first warlike leader 1606
7. Har Eae, his grandson 1644
8. Har Krishna, died at Delhi 1661
9. Tegh Bahadur, put to death by Aurangzeb in 1676 . . .1664
10. Govind, remodelled the Sikh Government 1675
11. Banda 1708
The Sikhs were now formed into confederacies called Misls, each
under a Sirdar, or chief. These were —
1. Bhangi, called from their fondness for bhang, extract of hemp.
2. Nishani, standard-bearers.
3. Shahid or Nihang, martyrs and zealots.
4. Ram^arhi, from Kamgarh, at Amritsar.
5. Nakeia, fh)m a country so called.
6. Alhnwali, from the village in which Jassa lived,
7. Ghaneia or Ehaneia.
8. Faizulapuri or SlnghpurL
9. Sukarchakia,
10. Dalahwala.
11. Erora Singhia or Panigarhia.
12. PhuUda.
All the other Mills were, about the year 1823, gubdued by Ranji
Sing of the Sukarchakia, and for a long time Ranjit was liie znos
prominent personage in India. He died in 1839.
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Mrod. THB PAR8IS liz
THE PARSIS
The Parsis, formerly inhabitants of Persia, are the modem followers
of Zoroaster, and now form a numerous and influential portion of the
population of Surat and Bombay.
When the Empire of the Sassanides was destroyed by the Saracens,
about 650 A.D., t^e Zoroastrians were persecuted, and some of them
fled to Hindustan, where the Rajah of Guzerat was their principal
protector. They suflfered considerably from the persecution of Moham-
medans until the time of the British occupation. Their worship, in
the course of time, became corrupted by Hindu practices, and the
reverence for fire and the sun, as emblems of the glory of Ormuzd,
degenerated into idolatrous practices. The sacred fire, which Zoroaster
was said to have brought from heaven, is kept burning in consecrated
spots, and temples are built over subterranean fires. Priests tend the
fires on the altars, chanting hymns and burning incense. A partially
successful attempt was made in 1862 to restore the creed of Zoroaster
to its original purity. In order not to pollute the elements, which
they adore, they neither bum nor bury their dead, but expose their
corpses to be devoured by carnivorous birds (see Towers of Silence,
Bombay). There is now a marked desire on the part of the Parsis to
adapt themselves to the manners and customs of Europeans. The
public and private schools of Bombay are largely attended by their
children, and every effort is made to procure the translation of English
works. Many follow commercial pursuits, and several of the wealthiest
merchants of India are members of this religious community.
Pabsi Months
There are 12 months, of 30 days each, and 6 days are added at
the end. They approximate as below to the English montha
1. Farvardin, September.
2. Ardibihisht, October.
3. Khurdad, November.
4. Tir, December.
5. Amardad, January.
6. Sharivar, February.
7. Mihr, March.
8. Aban, April.
9. Adar, May.
10. Deh, June.
11. Bahman, July.
12. Asfandiyar, August
The Parsi Festivals
PcUati, New Year's Day. The Ist of Farvardin. The Parsis rise
earlier than usual, put on new clothes, and pray at the Fire Temples.
They then visit friends and join hands, distribute alms and give
clothes to servants and others. This day is celebrated in honour of
the accession of Yezdajird to the throne of Persia, 632 a.d.
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Ix PA.RBI FESTIVALS — ARCHITECTURE India
Farvardin-JasaUf on the 19th of Farvardin, on which ceremonies
are performed in honour of the dead called Frohars or " protectors."
There are 1 1 other Jasans in honour of various angels.
Khurdad'Sal, the birthday of Zoroaster, who is said to have been
bom 1200 B.O. at the city of Rai or Rhages near Teheran.
Jamshidi Naurog^ held on the 2l8t of Mihr. It dates from the time
of Jamshid, and the Parsis ought to commence their New Year from it.
ZaHa^ Diso, held on the 11th of Deh in remembrance of the
death of Zartasht or Zoroaster.
Muktady held on the last ten days of the Zoroastrian year, including
the last five days of the last month, and the five intercalary days called
the Gatha Gahamhars. A clean place in the house is adorned with fruits
and flowers, and silver or brass vessels filled with water are placed there.
Ceremonies are performed in honour of the souls of the dead.
ARCHITEOTURE
Rbliqion has so great an influence upon architecture that we may
most conveniently classify the different styles in India as Buddhist,
Brahman, and Mohammedan.
Buddhist, — Although Gautama preached 600 B.C., his religion made
little progress before its adoption by the great Asoka, who reigned
from 272 to 236 ac. The palaces, halls, and temples which may
have existed before the time of Asoka were made of wood, and have
perished. There was no stone architecture in India before Asoka,
and all the monuments known to us for five or six centuries after his
date are Buddhist.
Every Buddhist locality was sanctified by the presence of relics,
which were contained in dagobas, or topes. Some topes were without
relics, the oldest and simplest form of tope being a single pillar
(sthambra) either regularly built, or carved out of one stone, in which
case it was called a lat Where a tope had relics, they were con-
tained in a sort of box or case at the summit of the tope, called a tee.
Rails are found surrounding topes, or enclosing sacred trees, pillars,
eta Chaityas, assembly halls or temples, correspond to the churches
of the Christian religion. Yiharas are monasteries.
The best known topes are those at Bhilsa, Sarnath, and Buddh
Qaya. There are also a number of them scattered over the ancient
province of Qandara, the capital of which was Peshawar — especially at
Manikyala. In Ceylon there are topes or dagobas at Anuradhapura
and Pollonarua. The lats, or pillars, stood in front of, or beside, each
gateway of every tope, and in front of each chaitya hall. Asoka was
the great builder of pillars. Two of his are still in existence at
Delhi, and a more complete specimen at Allahabad. The iron pillar
in the mosque at old Delhi is not Buddhist, but seems to be
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Intmd. ABOHITBCTURB Ixi
dedicated to Vishnu. The most interesting rails are at Sanchi and
Buddh Gaya ; the remains of the Bharhut rail are at Calcutta, and
of the Amaravati rail in the British and Madras Museums. There are
good examples of torans, or gateways, with the rail at Sanchi.
Our knowledge of the chaitya halls or temples, and the Viharas
(monasteries), is derived from the rock-cut examples. This method of
working is much easier and less expensive than the ordinary process
of buUding. For a cave nothing hut excavation is required ; while
for a building the stone has to be quarried, transported — perhaps a
long distance — and then carved and erected. According to Fergusson ^
the complete excavation of a temple, both externally as well as
internally, would cost only about one-tenth of the expenditure
necessary for building ; and the Buddhist caves were still cheaper, as
the rock was not cut away externally, the interior chamber alone
being excavated. Examples of Chaityas are to be found at Karli,
Bhaja and Bedsa, Behar, Nassick, EUora, Ajanta, and Eanhari. The
vihara is a kind of court with cells, galleries two or three stories high,
and richly carved pillars. The most notable specimens are at
Udayagiri and Khandagiri, Bhaja and Bedsa, Ajanta, NhSsick, Bagh,
Salsette, Dumnar, EUora, Jamalgarhi, and Takht-i-bahi (near Peshawar).
The architecture of the Buddhists proper was succeeded by that
of the JainSy who are the only followers of that religion remaining in
India (excepting Ceylon). The Jains were great builders. Unlike
the Buddhists they were not great cave-cutters, though some examples
of their cave- work exist at EUora. The characteristic Jain feature is the
horizontal archway, which avoids the strain from the outward thrust
of a true radiating arch. Indeed, with the exception of some
specimens of the time of Akbar, no radiating arch exists in any
Baddhist, Jain, or Hindu temple in India up to the present day.
Another Jain feature is the carved bracket form of capital, which,
springing from the piUars at about two-thirds of their height, extends
to the architraves, and forms a sort of diagonal strut to support them.
The leading idea of the plan of a Jain temple was a number of
columns arranged in squares. Their domes, like their arches, were
bmlt horizontally, on eight pUlars forming an octagon, with four
external pillars at the angles to form a square. The lateral pressure of
a dome built on the radiating plan by the Roman, Byzantine, or Gtothic
architects prevents the use of elegant pillars, great cyUnders with
heavy abutments being necessary. The decoration of the Jain domes,
being horizontal, allows of more variety than can be given to the
vertical ribs of Roman or Gk)thic models, and has rendered some of
the Indian domes the most exquisite specimens of elaborate roofing
that can anywhere be seen. The Indian dome allows the use of
pendants from the centre, which have a Ughtness and elegance never
^ Hiitory qf Indian and JBastem ArcMtecture,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Ixii ARCHITECTURE India
even, imagined in Gothic art. On the other hand they are necessarily
small, and require large stones, whUe a dome on the radiating
principle can be built of small bricks. The Jains built their templee
in groups, or cities, of temples, as at Palitana, Parasnath, Gimar,
Mount Abu, Muktagiri, Eliajnrahu, and Gyraspore. Their love
of the picturesque led them to build their cities sometimes on
hill-tops, as at Mount Abu, sometimes in deep and secluded valleys, as
at Muktagiri. The two towers of Fame and Victory at Chittore are
examples of Jain work, called sikras. Of modem Jain architecture
the most notable specimens are at Sonagarh and Muktagiri ; the
temple of Hathi Sing (a.d. 1848) at Ahmedabad ; and the temple at
Delhi, about 100 years old.
Brahman architecture is divided by Fergusson into the three styles
of Dravidian, Chalukyan, and Indo- Aryan. The Dravidian op
Madras architecture is best seen at Tanjore, Trivalup, Sri Rangam,
Chidambaram, Rameswaram, Madura, Tinnevelly, Conjeveram, Coim-
batore, and Vijayanagar. ** There is nothing in Europe that can be
compared with these Dravidian temples for grandeur and solemnity,
and for parallels to them we must go back to ancient Egypt and
Assyria" (Sir G. Birdwood). The temple itself, which is called the
Vimana, is always square in plan, surmounted by a pyramidal roof of
one or more stories ; a porch or Mantapa covers the door leading to
the cell in which the image of the god is placed ; the gate pyramids
or Gbpuras are the principal features in the quadrangular enclosures
which, with numerous other buildings, surround the Vimanas. The
chief Dravidian rock-cut temples, which, unlike the Buddhist caves,
are excavated externally as well as internally, are at Mahabalipur and
Ellora. The palaces exhibit Mohammedan influence, having the
Moorish pointed arch. They are to be found at Madura, Tanjore,
and Vijayanagar.
The GhcUukyan style was at its best in the province of Mysore
during the three centuries a.d. 1000 to 1300, when the BeUalas
ruled there. They erected groups of temples at Somnathpur, Belur,
and Hullabid. Other Chalukyan examples are at Warangal and
Hammoncondah. This style is remarkable for elegance of outline and
elaboration of detail. The artistic combination of horizontal with
vertical lines, and the play of outline and of light and shade, especially
in the Hullabid example, far surpass anything in Gothic art The
animal friezes begin, as is usual in India, with elephants on the bottom
line ; then lions, then horses, then oxen, above which are pigeons.
Examples of the Indo- Aryan, or Northern style, are at Bhuvanesh-
war, Khajurahu, the black pagoda at Konarak, the temple of Jagannath
at Puri, the Garuda pillar at Jajpur, the Teli-Ka-Mandir at Gwalior,
the temple of Vriji at Chitor, the golden temple of Bishweshwar at
Benares, the red temple at Bindraban, and the modem temple erected
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Inirod, AROHITECTURE Ixiii
bj Sindhia's motber at Gwalior. There are three rook-oat temples of
thiB stjle at Badami, and the Dumar Lena at Ellora.
Of Brahman civil architecture the best specimens are the tomhs
of Sangram Sing and Amara Sing at Oodejpore, and of Bakhtawar
Sing at Alwar. The latter shows the foliated arch which is so
common in Mogul buildings ; and it also shows the Bengali curved
comices^ whose origin was the bending of bamboos used as a support
fop the thatch, or tiles. The finest Brahman palaces are at Oodeypore,
Datia, Orchba, Amber, Dig, and the Man Sing Palace at Gwalior.
The beauty of Hindu architecture is greatly enhanced by the use of
picturesque sites, either on hills, in valleys, or where the aesthetic
value of water may be utilised. At Rajsamundra, in Oodeypore, for
eiample, the bund or dam of the artificial lake is covered with steps,
vhich are broken by pavilions and kiosks, interspersed with fountains
nd statues, the whole forming a fairy scene of architectural beauty.
The chief styles of Mohammedan architecture are the Pathan and
the Mogul. The Pathans found in the colonnaded courts of the
Jain temples nearly all that was required for a ready-made mosque,
rbey had to remove the temple in its centre, and erect a new wall
on the west side, adorned with niches — mihrabs — pointing towards
Mecca ; and they added a screen of arches with rich and elaborate
carvings. The best examples are at Delhi and Ajmere. Of the screen
at the Kutub mosque, Delhi, Fergusson says that the carving is,
v?ithout exception, the most exquisite specimen of its class known to
exist anywhere. He says of the Minar that '*both in design and
finish it far surpasses any building of its class in the whole world " ;
^nd considers that Giotto's Campanile at Florence, " beautiful though
it is, wants that poetry of design and exquisite finish of detail which
marks every moulding of the minar." During the Pathan period
tall minarets were not attached to the mosques.
We have no examples of the Mogul style in the reigns of Babar
or HumajTin. Akbar was, in architecture as in religion, extremely
tolerant^ and his buildings exhibit marked Hindu features. The
chief of them still in existence are the tomb of his father Humayun
near Delhi, the town of Fatehpur-Sikri, the fort at Allahabad, the
palace at Lahore, the tomb he began for hihiself at Sikandarah, and
t^ red palace in the fort at Agra, which by some authorities, in
^ite of its Hindu features, is ascribed to Jehangir. The tomb of
Anar Kali at Lahore was built by Jehangir, in whose reign the tomb
^^ Itimad-ud-daulah at Agra was built. Shah Jehan, during whose
reign the Mogul power was at its highest, was the greatest of all
[ndian builders. There is a great contrast between the manly vigour
ind exuberant originality of Akbar, and the extreme, almost effeminate,
elegance of his grandson. Shah Jehan built the palace at Delhi,
^e fort and palace at Agra, and the famous Taj Mahal, perhaps
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Ixiv ARTS India
the most beautiful building in the world. His son Aurangzeb was
a religious fanatic, who has left little save the mosque at Benares.
The later examples of Mogul architeeture at Lucknow show marked
deterioration, which is partly attributable to European influence.
Other notable examples of Mohammedan architecture are at Jannpur,
Mandu, Sarkhej, and Ahmedabad.
In other styles should be mentioned the ruins at Martand in
Cashmere, which bear evidence of classical influence ; and the modem
Golden Temple of the Sikhs at Amritsar.
The Burmese pagoda, with its thin spire, has been evolved from
the solid hemispherical dome of the Buddhists. The best examples are
at Prome, Pagan, Rangoon, Mandalay, and the Shwemawdaw pagoda at
ARTS
Fergusson says of Indian sculpture, that when it *' first dawns upon
us in the rails at Buddh Gaya and Barhut, 250 to 200 b.c., it is
thoroughly original, absolutely without a trace of foreign influence,
but quite capable of expressing its ideas. Some animals, such as
elephants, deer, and monkeys, are better represented there than in
any sculptures known in any part of the world ; so, too, are some
trees, and the architectural details are cut with an elegance and pre-
cision which are very admirable." The highest perfection was
attained in the 4th and 5th centuries a.d. Little sculpture of any
merit has been produced since that time.
The excellence of Indian art production is to be found in its pottery,
metal work, carving, jewellery, weaving, dyeing, and embroidery. In
these directions the Indian artisan is remarkable for his patience,
accuracy of detail, thoroughness, and artistic sense of both colour and
form. The elaboration of ornament in the best Indian metal ware,
or carving, the composition of colours in the best Indian carpets, or
enamel, the form of the best Indian pottery, have seldom, if ever, been
excelled. Much of the skill of the Indian handicraftsman is due to the
hereditary nature of his occupation. The potter, the carpenter, the
smith, the weaver, each belongs to a separate caste ; a son inevitably
follows the trade of his father, and the force of custom, with generally
a religious basis, impels him to imitate his father's work. The result
is that the form and workmanship of artisan work is almost exactly
the same now as it was thousands of years ago, and that the artisan,
with great technical and imitative skill, has little creative power.
The combined competition and prestige of Europe have created a
tendency to imitate European methods. ITie best work used to be
done, at leisure, to the order of the wealthy princes and nobles of an
ostentatious native court Some of these courts have been abolished.
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Mrod, ARTS Ixv
wiiile others have suffered in purchasing power and in influence.
The authority of the trade guilds, and of caste, has been relaxed
onder ^e freedom of British rule, and the importation of British
goods has forced many artisans into agriculture and even domestic
serrice. British supremacy, having produced peace, has almost
destroyed the armourer's trade; the fancy cheap cotton goods of
America and Britain have displaced the muslins of Dacca ; aniline
dye8, and jaU work, have nearly killed the carpet industry. Whether
the Schools of Art which the €k)vemment has established all over
India have hastened, or retarded, the process of degeneration which
is everywhere so visible, is a much -disputed point Some trades
wHch were dying out have been resuscitated by their efforts ; and
the mania for imitating European designs is sometimes effectually
direrted from the worst to the best examples. But a School which
CQQtains principally casts from the antique, and details of Italian and
Gothic ornament, must inevitably destroy the purity of indigenous ideals,
which is much to be deplored. To restrain rather than to strengthen
the tendency to imitate the designs and methods of the dominant race,
should be the aim of art education throughout the country.
In the very slight sketch of Indian arts which follows, certain
places are mentioned as being noted for particular work ; but it
should be remembered that the small towns are gradually losing their
tpecialities, the best workmen drifting steadily towards the larger
centres. A visit is recommended to the Indian Museum at South
Kensington, before leaving England.
Nearly every Indian village has its pottery who is kept constantly
It work making domestic utensils of baked clay — for in millions of
looseholds no earthen vessels can be used a second time — as well as
Inages of the gods. The forms of the utensils which he makes are
if great antiquity and beauty. The best glazed pottery is made in
ke Punjab, of blue and white ; and in Sind, of turquoise blue,
tapper green, dark purple, and golden brown, under an exquisitely
kansparent glaze. The usual ornament is a conventional flower
^ttem, pricked in firom paper and dusted along the pricking. The
ladura (Madras) pottery deserves mention for the elegance of its
inn, and richness of its colour. The Bombay School of Art produces
Imitations of Sind ware. In the Punjab and Sind, and especially
ft Tatta and Hyderabad, there are many good specimens of old
tohammedan mosques and tombs decorated with encaustic tiles.
he of the finest examples is the mosque of Wazir Khan at Lahore.
The Punjab has long been noted for its gold and silver work, and
<|)eeiaUy for parcel-gilt saraiis, or waters-vessels, of elegant shape and
tocale tracery. The gold and silver ware of Cashmere, Cutch,
Eicknow, Patna, Bombay, Ahmednagar, Cuttack, and Tanj^e, 4s
•trthy of mention. The hammered repouss^ silver work of Cutch
[Jn^al Digitized by GoOgl^
Ixvi ARTS IndiA
is of Dutch origin. The embossed silver work of Madras, with
Dravidian figures in high relief, is called Swami ware.
Domestic utensils in brass and copper are made all over India^ the
Hindus using the brass and the Mohammedans the copper. The brass
is cleaned by scrubbing with sand or earth and water ; the copper
periodically receives a lining of tin. The copper bazaar of Bombay
is celebrated, and so is the brass ware of Moradabad. Benares tt
famous for cast and sculptured mythological images and emblems.
Kansha plates are made at Burdwan and Midnapore. Other places
noted for brass and copper ware are Nagpore, Ahmedabad, Nassic^
Poona, Murshedabad, and Tanjore. The Cashmere and Peshawar
ware has marked Persian features.
The artisans of India were formerly very skilful in the use of iron
and sted, Fergusson says of the iron pillar in the Kutub mosque al
Old Delhi, to which he assigns the date of aj>. 400, that *' it opens oui
eyea to an unsuspected state of affairs to find the Hindus at that age
capable of forging a bar of iron larger than any that have been forg&i
even in Europe up to a very late date, and not frequently even now
It is almost equally startling to find that, after an exposure for fourteei
centuries, it is unrusted, and the capital and inscription are as cleai
and as sharp as when the pillar was first erected.'' Sir Qeorg<
Birdwood ^ says : " The blades of Damascus, which maintained thei
pre-eminence even after the blades of Toledo became celebrated, wer<
iA fact of Indian steel." Indian arms are characterised by thei
superb, and sometimes excessive, ornamentation. But the moden
work in iron, steel, and arms is not of much importance.
Damaseening is the art of encrusting one metal upon anothel
Th0 best or true damascening is done by cutting the metal deep, an
filling it with a thick wire of gold or silver. The more commo
process is to heat the metal to a blue colour, scratch the design upo
it, conduct a gold' or silver wire along the pattern, and then sink
carefully with: a copper tooL The art comes from Damascus, hen^
its. name. Damascening in gold is carried on chiefly in Cashmel
Gujrat, and Sialkot, and is called koft-work. In silver it is call<
bidri, from Bidar, in the Nizam's dominions. A cheap imitation
koft-work is made with gold leafl
Enamd is an artificial vitreous mass, ground fine, mixed wit
gum water, applied with a brush, and fixed by fusion. In tl
champlev4 enamelling of Jeypore — the best in India, perhaps in tl
world — the <:olours are placed in depressions hollowed out of ti
metal, and are made to adhere by fire. The Jeypore artist is renown
|cur;the purity and brilliance of his colours, and the evenness w^
w^i<jh they are applied. He is particularly famous fbr a fiery is
^hiohi is unique. For enamel on gold— besides Jeypore— ^Al war, Del
^ Th€ Jndustrial Arts of Jiidia^
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Introd. ARTS Ixvii
and Benares should be mentioned ; on silver, Mooltan, Hyderabad
(Sind), Karachi, Abbotabad, Catch, Lahore, Eangra, and Cashmere ;
on copper the Punjab and Cashmere. A quasi -enamel, the mode
of preparation being kept secret, is made of green colour at Pertabghar,
and of blue at Kutlam. Glass was known in India at the time of
the Mahabluirata ; glass bangles and other ornaments are made all
over the country.
The splendour of Indian jewellery is due to the free use of diamonds,
rubies, emeralds, and other gems, some of them mere scales, so light
thit thej will float on water. A dazzling variety of rich and brilliant
cdonrs is produced by means of gems which are valueless except as
points, sparkles, and splashes of gorgeousness. Rings for the fingers
aid toes, nose and ears ; bracelets, armlets, anklets, nose ^nids,
necklaces made up of chains of pearls and gems ; tires, aigrettes,
aid other ornaments for the head and forehead ; chains and zones
d gold and silver for the waist — such are the personal ornaments
k daily use amongst men and women, Mohammedans and Hindus.
One reason for the great popularity of gold and silver jewellery is
that it is portable wealth, easily preserved. The silver filigree work
>f Cuttack and of Ceylcm, generally with the design of a leaf, is
emarkable for delicacy and finish. For gold and silver jewellery,
rrichinopoly, Vizagapatam, and Ahmedabad are noted. The best
tnamelled jewellery comes from Delhi, Benares, and Hyderabad
Deccan). The old Delhi work in cut and gem -encrusted jade is
lighly prized. The pietra dura inlaid work of Agra was originated
n the Taj Mahal by Austin de Bordeaux. While Florentine in
>rigin and style, the designs have a thoroughly local character. The
reU-known Bombay boxes are a variety of inlaid wood- work called
?iqud.
Indian lacquer, so-called, is really Zoc turnery. It is the surface
^btained by pressing a stick of hard shellac to a rapidly revolving
Ifooden object The friction develops heat sufficient to make it
Where irregularly. Further friction with an oiled rag polishes the
prface. The lac is obtained from the incrustations made by the
pnale of an insect {coccus lacca) on the branches of certain trees,
phe numeral lac, signifying 100,000, is derived from the enormous
Munber of these insects found on a small area. The chief consumption
P lac in Europe is for sealing-wax and varnishes. All over India it
I made into variegated marbles, walking-sticks, mats, bangles, and
^ Lac -turned wooden and papier -mach^ boxes and trays are
Me in Cashmere, Sind, Punjab, Bajputana, Bareilly, and Kamul
pCadias). Of nnall objects, the mock ornaments for the idols, made
i pi^»er, should be noted at Ahmedabad and in most parts of India
trtiilcial flowers, and models of the temples, are made of the pith of
^e 8(^ plant, hence the " solar topee," or sun-hat of pith.
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Ixviii ARTS hidia
Skilful carving is done at Bombay in blackwood, for doors or
furniture, in a style derived from the Putch. At Ahmedabad the
blackwood ia carved into vases, inkstandB, and other small object&
Jackwood also is carved in rectangular forms at Bombay, Sandals
wood is carved at Bombay^ Surat, Ahmedabad, Canara, Mysore, and
Travancore ; ebony at Bijnur (Rohilkund) ; ivory at Amritsar, Benares,
and Yizagapatam. Silhet is noted for its ivory fans, Rutlam for its
ivory bracelets, and Yizagapatam for boxes of ivory and stag's horn.
The beautiful carved ivory combs, which used to be found in eveiy
bazaar, are not now so common. Figures of animals, and of the gods,
are carved in white marble at Ajmere, Jeypore, and Rajputana
generally. Excellent building stone is found in Rajputana, where it
is carved for architectural purposes. At Fatehpur-Sikri (Agra) models
of the rums are carved in soapstone. Models in clay of fruit ani
figures are admirably made at Lucknow, Poona, and Calcuttai
In the cities of Guzerat, and wherever the houses are made of wood,
their fronts are elaborately carved.
India was the first of all countries that perfected weaving, sewing
not being practised until after the Mohammedan invasion. The
Greek name for cotton fabrics, sindon, is etymologically the same as
India or Sind. The word chintz is from the Hindu chhint, oi
variegated, while calico is from the place of its production, Calicut In
delicacy of texture, in purity and fastness of colour, in grace of design,
Indian cottons may still hold their own against the world — but not in
cheapness. The Dacca muslin, once so famous, one pound weight oi
which could be made to cover 260 miles, is now superseded by the chea|
machine-made goods of Europe and America; and European cbinti
now takes the place of the palampore, a kind of bed-cover of printed
cotton, for which Masulipatam used to be celebrated. In the Punjal
the weaver's trade still flourishes, but large quantities of th<
cheaper cottons are now made in India by machinery. Pure «t2i
fabrics, striped, checked, and figured are made at Lahore, Agra
Benares, Hyderabad (Deccan), and Tanjore. Gold and silver brocadec
silks, called kincobs, are made at Benares, Murshedabad, anc
Ahmedabad. The printed silks which are worn by the Pars
women of Bombay are a speciality of Surat Bhawulpore is noted fo;
its damasked silks. Most of the raw silk comes from China. Th<
Mohammedans are forbidden by their religion to wear pure silk, bu
may wear it mixed with cotton. Gold and silver wire, thread lac€
and foil are made all over the country, for trimming shoes and caps
for stamping muslins and chintzes, for embroidery and brocades. Wit]
such skill is the silver wire prepared that two shillings worth of silvti
can be drawn out to 800 yards. The best embroidery, remarkable fo
its subdued elegance and harmonious combination of brilliant coloun
comes from Cashmere, Lahore, and Delhi. The natterp and coloru
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Inkvd. tRBlGAZlOK Ixix
diversify plan^ surfaces Witbout destroying the impression of flatness.
Much tinsel is used, but the result has not a tinselly appearance. . The
famous Cashm^^e shawls are made of the fine, flossy, silk-like wool
obtained firom the neck and underpart of the body of the goat of
Ladak. Originally a speciality of Cashmere, they are now made
in the Punjab also, especially at Amritsar. They have grieatly
deteriorated since the introduction of French designs and magentJa
dyes. The finest of the woollen stuffs called patu in Eangra and
Cashmere, is made of camel's hair. A rough but remarkably
durable patu is made from goat's hair. The shawls called Rampur
cbtdars are made at Ludhiana, of llampur wool. The intrini^ic
difference between Eastern and Western decorative art is revealed in
OmtaX carpetSf where the angular line is substituted for the flowing,
chsaical *4ine of beauty.'' The Oriental carpet is also more artistically
(^ed, and. is decorated according to the true principles of conventional
<iesign. As a rule the pile carpets of India and Persia are of floral
design, while those of Central Asia, Western Afghanistan, and
Baluchistan are geometric In Persia and India the source of the
majority of the patterns is the tree of life, shown as a beautiful
ilowering plant, or as a simple sprig of flowers. The dari is a carpet of
cotton made chiefly in Bengal and Northern India ; but the most
^mmon cotton carpet is the shatrangi, made throughout India, but
specially at Agra. The principal patterns are stripes of blue and
^hite, and red and White. In point of texture and workmanship the
rugs from Ellore, Tanjore, and Mysore are the best. Costly velvet
carpets embroidered with gold are made at Benares and Murshedabad.
rhe carpets of Malabar are now the only pile woollen carpets made
tf pure Hindu design. Fine carpets are made at Amritsar. Central
bian carpets are best purchased at Peshawar.
L
IRRIGATION
The history of irrigation in India stretches back into remote
itiquity, many of the modem works being founded upon old native
mis which have been restored and extended. The storage of water
n tanks is very common in Southern India The works are for the
Host part of native origin, but much has been done by the British in
^pairing old tanks and constructing new ones in Madras, the Bombay
Eteccan, and Ajmere. In many places the natives have made artificial
^es with dams, which are often of great architectural beauty. In
N more level tracts of the south every declivity is dammed up to
wher the rain. Innumerable wells cover the whole country. And
f » very usual for the native cultivator to make his own tiny irrigating
r^Mn, carrying it along the brows of mountains, round steep declivities^
M acro9S yawning gulfs and deep valleys ; his primitive aqueducts
^^ formed of stones and clay, the scooped-out trunks of palm trees
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Ixx tHiB MUTINY India
and hollow bamboos. To lift the water a bucket wheel is employed,
worked by men, oxen, buffaloes, or elephants. A good part of the
Punjab and the whole of Sind would be scarcely habitable without
irrigation ; and it is practically indispensable also in the south-east of
the Madras Presidency.
The greatest British works have been in canal irrigation, the waier
being drawn directly from a river into either a " perennial " or an
" inundation " canaL The perennial canal is furnished with permanent
headworks and weirs, and is capable of irrigating large tracts through-
out the year, independently of rainfall An example is the Ganges
Canal, which has been in operation since 1854, has cost Rx. 3,000,000
comprises 440 miles of main canal, and 2614 miles of distributaries,
and in 1896-96 supplied water to 759,297 acres. In one place it
is carried over a river 920 feet broad, and thence for nearly J
miles along the top of an embankment 30 feet high. The Sirhin^
Canal, completed in 1887, is even larger. These two canals, for siz
and power, are without any rivals outside of India. The inunda
tion canals are simply earthen channels without masonry dams o
sluices, and are supplied with water by the annual rise of th
Indus and its affluents in the month of May. Both these classe
of canals take off from the larger rivers, which, even in times o
drought, can be depended upon for an unfailing supply of water.
There are great differences in the financial results of the worki
due to the variations in surface, soil, climate, the absence or presenc
of large rivers, and the character and habits of the people ; and th
methods of assessing and collecting the revenue also vary considerabl
in different localities. If the rainfall is plentiful the cultivator wi
try to do without the irrigation water, and the receipts falL
The capital outlay, direct and indirect, up to the end of the yei
. 1896-96, was Rx. 37,474,751 ; the gross receipts were Rx. 2,706,418
the working expenses Rx. 1,166,750 ; the net receipts Rx. 1,650,668
the percentage of net receipts on capital outlay was 4*1 ; and the ar<
irrigated, with 14,000 miles of main canals and 26,000 miles of di
tributaries — 40,000 miles altogether — was 10,308,990 acres. Besidi
this, however, it is calculated that something like 20,000,000 acr^
are irrigated by means of tanks, wells, lakes, and the smaller natii
channels. Probably the area irrigated by one means or another i
India is greater than in the whole of the rest of the world.
THE MUTINY OF 1867
From 1764 to 1857 the history of British rule in India is mark*
by frequent mutinies among the native troops or sepoys. Ever ain
the days of Dupleix and Clive, sepoys, led by European officers, ha
been the main instrument for European aggression in India. Thi
Digitized byLjOOQlC
Inirod. !tHfi mutiijY Ixxi
bare hired theiuBelyes out to fight against their owii coUDtrymen for
the Ake of two kinds of reward, pay and prestige. Whenever their
expectations on either of these points have been threatened they have
been ready to mutiny, and have generally found a religious excuse for
their disaffection. The first serious mutiny, in 1764, was for an
increase of pay. It was promptly suppressed by Hector Munro, who
reftised the higher pay, and ordered the twenty-four ringleaders to be
blown from guns. There was a more extensive rising throughout
Madras in 1806. It began at Vellore, where the British officers were
maidered, but Qillespie galloped from Arcot, eight miles off, and
reaq»tured the fort, killing or dispersing the mutineers. On this
occasion the complaint of the sepoys was that orders had been issued
forbidding the use of earrings, or caste marks, or beards, and that the
lew hat had a leather cockade made from the skin either of the
detested pig, or of the holy cow. The Mohammedan princes of Mysore,
?ho had been dethroned by the British, lived with numerous
ittendants in the fortress of Vellore. They told the sepoys that the
new regulations were intended to deprive them of their caste, and
force them to become Christians ; and the report was spread that the
British power had been extinguished by Napoleon. The mutinous
spirit had extended throughout Madras before it was finally quenched.
The Home Government declared that the mutinies were due to the
fear of being Christianised, to the residence of dethroned princes at
Vellore, to the annexations of Lord Wellesley which had shaken
confidence in British moderation and good faith, and to a loss of
authority by British officers over their men. The analogy between
Vellore in 1806, and Meerut in 1857, is very striking, the chief
variation being that the sepoys had greater causes of discontent in
1857, and that at Meerut there was no Colonel Gillespie. The
religion of the sepoys seemed to them to be in greater danger than
ev^; the capital of India, Delhi, was the home of the dethroned
descendant of the Mohammedan Moguls ; Lord Dalhousie's annexations
had far exceeded those of Lord Wellesley, and were evidently intended
to be still further pursued ; the discipline of native regiments was
diflturbed by the encouragements held out to their British officers to
8eek employment on the General Staff j and Russia in the Crimea was
sopposed to have destroyed British power moi*e effectively even than
Napoleon. And yet Vellore had been so completely forgotten, that
Sir Henry Lawrence was the only prominent Englishman in India
who foresaw the Meerut rising, or understood what it meant. In all
quarters there was touching faith in the loyalty of the sepoAS, a faith,
in the case of the British officers of native regiments, that was only
eztingaished by t^e hand of the sepoy assassin.
llie eight years from 1848-66, when Lord Dalhousie was Goviemor>
Qcaeral, will long be remembered in India. They form a period of
Digitized byLjOOQlC
Ixxii THE MUTINY India
large social and material reforms, and are also particularly remarkable
£6r Bntisli annexations of native territory. After a severe straggle
with the warlike Sikhs the Punjab was conquered and annexed in
1849. Lower Burma followed in 1852, and Oudh, without conquest^
in 1856. By a new doctrine, the territory of a native prince who died
without an heir of the body, was treated as hipaed to the British, an
adopted heir not being recognised. Under this rule we became
possessed of the principalities of Sattarah, Jhansi, Kagpore, and others.
It was also decided that the stipends which had been paid to those native
princes who had been deprived of their territories in former years,,
should not be continued to their successors. Among others of less,
importance, the Nana Sahib, the heir of the Peishwa of Poona, the
nominal head of th^ Marathas, was refuged the pension of £80,000
per annum which the Peishwa had enjoyed during his life. The
descendant of the Moguls, Bahadur Shah, was informed that his son
would not be allowed to live at Delhi, or to retain the regal title.
And when the territory of the loyal king of Oudh was annexed,
owiog to his persistent misgovemment, the surplus revenues of the
State, after payment of a substantial pension to the king, were
gathered into the coffers of the British Government. All this looked
like a policy of unjust and high-handed aggression. The natives
understand annexation after conquest, and the conquered provinces
of Punjab and Lower Burma remained loyal throughout the
Mutiny. But now every native prince feared for his dominion, as
the British seemed determined to absorb all their territory, either
by conquest, or on the plea of misgovemment, or by the new rule
excluding adopted heirs ; and this policy of greed seemed to be
further evidenced by the resumption of pensions, and the confiscation
of the surplus revenue of Oudh. Of the chiefs directly affected the
Mogul and the king of Oudh were Mohammedans, a race which
considers itself as the natural ruler of India and likely to profit by the
ejection of the British ; the Banee of Jhansi and the Nana Sahib were
Maratha Hindus, and the Marathas had practically conquered the
Mohammedans when the British intervened. The leaders of the two
most warlike and aggressive races in India, and of the two religions,
complained of harsh treatment at the hands of the British. They
determined, if possible, to rouse the sepoys, a portion of whom were
already in an insubordinate condition.
In 1856 one of the first innovations of the new Governor-General,
Lord Canning, was the General Service Enlistment Act, by which all
future recruite in Bengal were m^de liable for service outside the
Company's dominions without extra pay. Iliis had always been the
riile with the i^poys of the Madras and Bombay armiea . Buttiie
Bengal sepoy was a man of high caste, and entitled to privileges.
He was now threatened with the loss of his caste by being taken
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IntrGd. THE MtTMNt lixiii
over the sea (the *' black water ^) to serve in Burma. He^ considered
tliat healone had conquered India for the Gompafty, Mid belieVed
that he was now to be used for further conqaests^ without any increase
of pay, in regions far from his home. Moreover, the new regulations
would confine all future enlistment to low caste men, and thus
deprive the Bengalee of his monopoly of military service. His pay,
his prestige, and his caste were thus attacked. The agitators im-
pressed upon his superstitious and credulous mind, that the^ railways
and tdegraphs which had recently been introduced, were a kind of
magic designed to oppress him ; and that the new rule, made by Lord
Canning, which permitted the re-marriage of Hindu widows, and the
new zeal fOT edlication, were deliberate attacks upon his religion.
The sepoys knew also that while the British troops had been reduced
ky draits sent to the Crimea, and to Persia, the native army hiad been
increased for the purpose of garrisoning the recently acquired territories,
the British fwce being now only 40,000 to ^40,000 sepoys. The
prestige of England had been shaken by the disasters of the Afghan war ;
it was believed that the British had been beaten in the Crimea; and an
M prophecy was revived which foretold that the Ootnpany'is reign
would end in 1857, one hundred years after the battle of Plassey.
At this critical moment, with Mogul and Maratha, Mohammedan and
Hindu, Princes violently aroused against the British ; with an army
of h^h caste soldiers alarmed concerning their pay, their privileges,
and th^ religion ; with the British force reduced to insignificance, -
there occurred the &mous cartridge incident A new type of rifie
having been issued to the sepoys, the hideous blunder was perpetrated
of smearing the cartridge with a composition of the fat of the cow, the
sacred animal of the Hindus. On complaints being made British
officers honestly, but ignorantly, declared that no cow's fat had been
uaed, an answer which the sepoys knew to be false, and which only'
doubled their suspicions of British motives. Here, then, was the
positive, clear proof of the sinister intentions of the British.
The first r^;iment to mutiny was the 34th Native Infantry at'
Barrackpore, near Calcutta, in February 1867, which was followed in
March by the 19th at' Berhanipore, in the same neighbourhood.
Both these regiments were disbanded, and the 84th (British) was
brought over from Burma to Barrackpore. But nothing else was
done. '* Allahabad and Delhi, the two chief fortresses, arsenals, and
stiategical positions of the North Western Provinces, were still
w^ottt the protection of British garrisons, and no steps, such as the
eeOecticA^ of supplies and carriage, had been taken anywhere for the
pf^apt i90Yement or mobilisaticm of British trodps ? (McLedd Inn^isjf;^
On the 3rd May the 7th Qudh Irregulars mutinied at Luckjjpw, and
w«ie disarmed, by Sb H^nry lUiwreiice. - Then oh the lOth came the
great outbreak at Meerut, forty miles from Delhi. The sepoys after
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!TIOH OF
IxxiV; *he5^ mutiny 3 ~
liberating some of their comrades, who had been imprisoned
insubordination, made ofiP for Delhi ; arrived there they declar^
Mogul as the ruler of India. ^- ^^j---
Probably this forwwrd move of the Mogul party aroused the jeJ
of the other rival conspirators. For three weeks there was no t ,
mutiny. But when the natives found that days and weeks pL**
without any punishment being inflicted upon them, they be^ ^.
think that the British power was really at an end. On the SOtl^i
the 71st Native Infantry mutinied at Lucknow, and from thirf ••
there was a general rising. In some cases British officers, women
children were all murdered ; in others the men alone were killed
in still others they were all spared, and even escorted by the muti
out of harm's way. As each regiment rose, it made for 1 ^"»«*»
Cawnpore, or Lucknow, which became the centres of the coii ^^"'
Delhi, the Rome of Asia, was in the hands of the rebels ; at Cawn
Sir Hugh Wheeler with a mere handful of soldiers was suri^u ^~
by overwhelming numbers ; and at Lucknow, a garrison undo) r ...
Henry Lawrence was closely invested. Relief could come from 1 ^
quarters. Lord Canning was at Calcutta ; General Anson^
Commander- in- Chief^ at Simla ; and Sir John Lawrence in ,
Punjab.
Between Calcutta and Meerut, a distance of 900 miles,
were only three British regiments, — ^the 14th at Dinapore, the _ .
at Lucknow, and a Company's Regiment, the 3rd Europeans, at <n^'
Lord Gannmg made energetic efforts to obtain reinforcements. *'*
Madras Fusiliers, under Colonel Neill, arrived at Calcutta o:
23rd May ; the 64th and 70th from Persia early in June
other British troops from Burma, Ceylon, and Singapore, and
sepoys from Madras soon followed. A force which was on ii
to China was, with the consent of Lord Elgin, diverted to Cal*
several regiments were despatched from the Cape Colony, and
requests for additional troops were sent to England. The m<
transport were very indifferent The railway from Calcuti
been completed only as far as Ranigunj, a distance of 120
and there was difficulty in procuring the bullock carts and
vehicles which had to be employed. So it happened that the
from Calcutta were only just in time to secure Benares and Alia
and it was not till the 7th July that General Havelock was al
advance from Allahabad with an. inadequate force of 2000
Genercd Anson^ on receiving the Meerut news at Simla, at once to.
the British and Gurkha regiments which were in the hills, and
to move on Delhi, but his progress was slow owing to lack of
^ A more detailed account of the events at these important places '
found on pp. 18», 261, and 289. The sequence of events wiU best ^e
consulting the chronology, p. IxxxiiL
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'..-C
^ OF TROOPi
T"
REFERENCE NOTE
U ' • '^'o- ' — -ir/SH TROOPS COLOURED RED
IVE TROOPS COLOURED BLUE
?Y REGIMENT •• DETACHMENT
TRY REGIMENT A MUTINIED
FRY COMPANY i DISARMED
war u- \ ^
ERY
Grand Trunk Road •
9 ) / r-....
RAILWAY
Itai^liolonit'vr * Co..Ed4ii^
d by Google
IfUrod. *tiB MUTINY lixv
and commissariat. The important arsenals at Phillour and Teroiepur
were secnred. On the 27th May Anson died of cholera. The attack
iq)on Delhi did not begin until the 8th June, when Sir H. Barnard,
with the troops collected bj Anson, amounting to 3800 men, defeated
a rebel army of 30,000 men at Badli-ka-serai, and thus obtained
possession of the famous ridge overlooking the walls of Delhi. Barnard
died of cholera on the 5th July, and was succeeded by Reed, who re-
dgned on the 17th owing to ill-health, handing over the command to
Archdale Wilson. The natives had purposely timed their rising for
the beginning of the hot weather, knowing l^w debilitating active
operations are at that period to all Europeans. For some time the
British, while affecting to invest Delhi, were themselves hotly be-
si^ed on the ridge. In the Pui\jab Sir 'John La/wrence was ably sup-
ported by such men as Nicholson, Edwardes, Chamberlain, and Mont^
gomery, who energetically suppressed, by disarmament, the local
mutinies or threats of mutiny at Peshawar, Nowshera, Mooltan,
Meean Meer, imd Ferozepur. A movable column was formed under
the command of Nicholson, to suppress any further risings in the
Punjab, and then to march on Delhi The value of Nicholson's
conn^ and decision can hardly be over-estimated. The Punjab wad
in a restless condition. With his small force, moving from place to
place, disarming or dispersing the mutineers, he kept that province
from rising. But it was not until the 14th August, three months
after the Meerut outbreak, that he was able to leave the Punjab and
join the British force at Delhi. No move could be made there
until, on the 6th September, the siege guns arrived from Ferozepur,
which opened on the waUs on the 1 1th, and prepared the way for the
storming of the works on the 14th, and the final capture of Delhi on
the 20th. It came not a day too soon. Sir John Lawrence had
emptied his province of British troops, sending every possible man to
Delhi ; and the Sikhs and Punjabees, who had hiUierto been loyal,
were becoming agitated with the idea that the British would never
regain their position. If these troops had turned against us we should
have had to begin again the conquest of India.
Meanwhile, the British between Calcutta and Delhi were in sore
straits. At Agra the sepoys were disarmed on the 31st May, but
alUiough the Maharaja Scindia, of Gwalior, was himself loyal, his
fine body of disciplined troops only awaited an opportunity to march
on Agra. At Cawnpore Sir H. Wheeler's small garrison capitulated
on the 26th June, and were massacred next day, but, the women aind
children were made prisoners. At Lucknow a small British force
was holding out against enormoua numbers of the enemy« .
Havelodc advanced to their assistance with 1400 British and
600 Sikh troops, leaving Allahabad on the 7th July. The line
between Calcutta and Allahabad was disturbed, the communi-
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hcxvi TH32 MtrDlNt India
cations thi^atened, and Havelock obtained ho substantial reii^
fbrcements till tbe middle of September. When lie had mtatchied
for five days from AUaiiabad he defeated a large force of mutineei%
imd Marathas at Fatehpore, and fought two other successful bdttleis
on the 15th of July at Aong and Pandoo Nuddee. On the evening ol
that day, being then 22 miles from Cawnpore, he leiuned that tbe
British women and children of Wheeler's garrison were still alive, and
tired as his men were, he marched them 14 miles that night, defeated
the Nana Sahib next day in three separate actions/ and rested bis
weary troops on the outskirts of Cawnpore on the evening of the 16tb.
The heat was so intense that many of his men died from sunstroke or
exhaustion. The women and children were murdered by the orders
of the Nana on the 16th, when Havelock had started on his last
desperate effort to save them. On the I'Zth he occupied Cawnpore.
On the 20th, leaving 300 men there under Neill, he began tbe
crossing of the Ganges with 1500 men. On the 29th he defeated tbe
rebels at Oonao ^md Busherut GungCj but finding immense numbers
of mutineers still between him and Lucknow, while his own force bad
been reduced to 860 effectives, he had no alternative but to retire
to Cawnpore. On the 4th August he marched out of CaWnpore a
second time with 1400 men; on the 5th he again defeated the rebels
at Busherut Gunge, but his losses from disease, as well as battle, bad
been so great that it was hopeless to proceed further, and he fell back
once more, reaching Cawnpore on the 13th. On the 16th he attacked
and defeated 4000 sepoys at Bithoor. He had now only 1000 effectives.
In his front towards Lucknow were some 30,000 rebels ; at Fumick-
abad were probably as many more ; he was threatened on both flanks ;
and had to face on the south the Gwalior contingent, and many
other smaller bodies. Yet he courageously determined to keep bis
position at Cawnpore instead of falling back upon Allahabad. Tbe
relief of Lucknow was, of course, out of the question until reinforce-
ments had arrived. These continued to dribble in during the next
month, but there was mischievous delay between Calcutta and
Allahabad, some 6000 men, who might have been sent on to Have-
lock, being detained to suppress local disturbances. On the 15tb
September Sir James Outram arrived to supersede Havelock. In
the most generous and chivalrous manner, he gave up the command
to Havelock, and thus left the honour of relieving Lucknow to
the man who: had already made such able and gallant etforts to that
tod At lengili, on the 19th September, Havelock crossed the Gang^
with 3000 'inen. He defeated the rebels at Mungalwar on the Slst,
and on the 28rd, ^4th; and 26th, was gradually fighting his Way Hi
to Lucknow ; and finally effected a junction with the garrison late in
the evening of the 26th, though with a loss of 700 out of his 300O
men. Outram then took command of the old and the new garrisons
^^ Digitized by LjOOQIC
Mrod, THE MUTINY Ixxvii
at Lucknow. Delhi having Mien to the British between the 14th
and 20th, the mutineers from that place were arriving at Lucknofw,
and Oatram found it impossible to fight his way out taking with him
the women, children, and sick of the old garrison. He remained on
the defensive, closely invested, until the final relief of Lucknow twp
months later.
The dangerous period of the mutiny ended with the capture of
Delhi and the reinforcement* of Lucknow towards the end of September.
I Prom this time the British position was assured by the arrival of rein-
ibrcements from England. The first of them was iS^V Oolin Campbell^
the newly -appointed Commander-in-Chief in India, who reached
Calcutta on the 17th August As reinforcements were now steadily
uriving, his first care was to arrange that regular batches should be
forwarded with all speed. Then he started for the seat of war, and
reached Cawnpore early in November. Leaving 1000 \men under
Windham at Cawnpore, he advanced on Lucknow with 5000, reached
the Alum Bagh on the 12th ; left a garrison there ; marched upon the
rebels with 4200 men on the 16th ; and effected a junction with Outram's
beleaguered force on the 17th, though with a loss of nearly 600 men.
The original Lucknow garrison, who had been closely invested since
the 2nd July, a period of more than four months, were thus finally
relieved. But Sir Colin found the rebels so numerous, and the
difficulty of escorting the women, children, and sick safely out of
Lucknow so great, that he felt himself imable to hold Lucknow in
addition, and accordingly evacuated it, leaving Outram at the Alum
Bagh with 4000 men to maintain the appearance of British authority,
Hayelock died of dysentery on the 24th November. When Sir
Colin reached Cawnpore with his precious human freight, he found
that Windham had been defeated by a Maratha named Tantia Topi,
aod had been gradually forced out of the city of Cawnpore into his
entrenchments on the banks of the Ganges. On the 3rd December
the families and sick were sent on to Allahabad, and then Sir Colin
attacked Tantia Topi, captured his artillery, and dispersed his army.
Beyond clearing the Doab, the country between the Ganges and
Jumna, little was done in the next three months except the collection
of reinforcements. On the 2nd March Sir Colin joined Outram at the
Alum Bagh with a force which the constant streams from Calcutta
had now raised to 19,000 men with 120 guns. To this was shbrtly
added a brigade imder General Franks, and a contingent of Nepalese
under Jung Bahadur, which brought the army up to the respectable
total of 31,000 men and 164 guna The mutineers in Lucknow
numbered 90,000 trained men, and a laige force of irregulars, and
they bad employed their respite in erecting three strong lines of defences
aioond tWr position, Sir Colin's attack began on the 7th Mardi,
and he finally drove oflf the enemy and captured Lucknow on the 15th,
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Ixxviii THE MUTINY India
On the 20th Lord Canning issued the Confiscation Proclamation,
by which the estates of all the important chiefs in Oudh were con-
fiscated. Most of them, although <;ertainly not loyal, had abstained
from active participation in the revolt They now rose, and were
joined by other princes who feared thai they would be ta^ated in like
manner, and that they had nothing to lose, but everything to gain by
opposing the British. Thxis it happened that although the sepoys
were dispersed, only small bands of them still remaining in the field,
new enemies sprang up who were not subdued until the end of the
year 1868, by which time there were 100,000 British troops in India
Of the various British brigades which operated in different parts of the
country, the most important was that under Sir Httgh Rose (afterwards
Lord Strathnaim) in Central India. On the 8th January 1858, Rose
left Mhow with a Bombay force, and marching northwards captured the
fortresses of Ratgarh on the 28th, and Gkirrakota on the 13th February.
After several successful battles he arrived before the walls of Jhansi on
the 21st March. On the Ist April he totally defeated Tantia To^h
who was marching to the relief of Jhansi with 22,000 men ; and he
stormed and captured Jhansi on the 4th. The Ranee fied with her
defeated troops towards Kalpee where Tantia Topi was collecting
another army. Rose marched out of Jhansi on the 25th April,
defeated Tantia Topi on the 6th May, and captured Kalpee on the
23rd. The Ranee then fled to Qwalior, where she was joined by
the Maharaja's troops, and thus obtained possession of the strong
fortress. In spite of the great heat Rose marched upon Gwalior, and
captured it on the 24th. The Eanee, dressed as a man, was killed in
battle. On the 21st Sir Robert Napier (afterwards Lord Napier of
Magdala) attacked and defeated Tantia Topi at Alipore Jowra. From
this date the wily Maratha was incessantly hunted throughout Central
India ; he had covered 3000 miles in his flight before he was betrayed
on the 7th April 1859, ten months later. He was tried, and hanged.
Meanwhile the rebellion in Oudh and the North West Provinces,
which had now assumed the character of a popular rising, had been
gradually suppressed ; and the Nana had been driven into the Nepal
jungle, where he died of fever.
The prophet who had announced that the Company's rule would
end in 1857, a hundred years after the battle of Plassey, was not far
out in his reckoning. On the 1st November 1858, at a grand darbar
at Allahal:^, Lord Canning announced that the Company's possessions
in India were transferred to the British Crown. Since the mutiny
there has l>een a great change in British policy. The British
troops, in 185*!^ one -sixth of the native, are now more than one
hall AH the strong fortresses, magazines, and arsenals are garrisoned
by British soldiers; there are no batteries of native artillery
of any importance ; and the modem preparations for transport^ com-
^^ Digitized by VjOOQIC
Inirod, remarkablk kvbnts Ixxix
missariat, and mobilkation, combined with the railway system, ensure
the speedy movement of British troops on any given spot The high
caste sepoy has been to a considerable extent replaced by a less exact-
ing soldier, and the danger of a groundless religious panic thereby
lessened. The right of adoption, for which many of the chiefs fought,
has been conceded. The policy of annexation in India has been
abandoned. The pay of the sepoy has been raised, whether on service
is his own country or in foreign districts. And the British officers of
mtive regiments are no longer encouraged to leave their men for the
attractions of civil or staff employment Both races have learned their
lesson. The best proof is that whereas formerly sepoy mutinies were
rf frequent occurrence, no single example has since occurred to revive
Bemoiies of the great tragedy of 1857.
REMAKKABLE EVENTS CONNECTING INDIA WITH
EUROPE
DATES
Vasco da Gama sails to Calicut round the Cape of Qood Hope . 1498
The Portuguese Viceroy, Albuquerane, captures Goa .... 1510
Bassein, Salsette, and Bombay oeded to the Portuguese by the Raja
ofGuzerat 1584
Thomas Stephens, of New College, Oxford, becomes rector of the
Jesuits' college at Salsette 1579
Charter from Queen Elizabeth to "The Governor and Company of
Merchants of London trading to the East Indies " . . 1601
The Dutch East India Company formed ...... 1602
The first French East India Company formed 1604
The Dutch occupy Pulicat (near Madras) 1609
The Mogul, Jehangir, issues a proclamation nermitting the English to
establish factories at Surat, Ahmedabad, Cambay, and Gogo . 1611
The first Danish East India Company formed 1612
Captain Best defeats the Portueueso squadron at Swally 1612
Sir Thomas Roe, ambassador to Jehangur, obtains favourable concessions
for English trade 1615
An English factory founded at Armagaon 1626
An English fsctory founded at Masulipatam 1632
The English Company allowed to trade in Bengal .... 1634
Fort St. Greorge founded at Madras by Francis Day .... 1639
Gabriel Broughton, surgeon of the Hopewell, obtains from the Mogul,
Shah Jehan, exclusive privileges of trading in Bengal for the
English Company, as a reward for his professional services to the
Mogul and the it^'a 4>f Bengal 1645
The Dutch take Negapatam from the Portuguese .... 1660
Bombay ceded to mgland by the Portuguese as part of the Infanta
Oatherina's dower on her marriage with Charles II. ... 1661
French settlement established at Pondicherry 1674
AiHBW jBnglish Company formed, with a capital of £2,000,000 , . 1698
The old Company buys the site of Calcutta . . 1700
Dmth of the Mo^l, Anrangzeb, and decline of the Mogul power . 1707
IhioQgh the arbitration of Lord Oodolphin the two English Companies
ure amalgamated ....... (^^^. t^ • ^709
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IXXI REMARKABLE EVENTS l7zdia
I>AT£S
The Austrian Emperor Charles VI,. grants a charter to the Ostend
Company ...... r • ► • •. • • ... 1723
England and FrancB>t war in Europe ^ . . . . .' . 1743
A French fleet under La Bourdonnais captures Madras . . . '1746
An Eiiglish fleet under Admiral Bosoawen besieges Pondicherry, but is
repulsed. The treaty of Air-la-Chapelle restores Madras to the
English . • " . . . . , . . . . . 1748
Dupleiz places nominees of his own on the throne at Hyderabad and
Arcot. The English support Muhammad All for Arcot. "War
between the English and French in the Camatic . . . . 1749
Capture and subsequent defenpe of Arcot by CHve . . . . 1761
The French capitulate at Trichinopoly 1752
Clive returns to England . 1758
Dupleix superseded. Treaty of peace between the English and French
signed at Pondicherry . . 1754
Clive returns to India . ... . . . ... 1756
Suraj-ud-daulah, Nawab of Bengal, captures Calcutta. 20th June.
— ^The tragedy of the Black Hole. The English prisoners, 146 in
number, are confined in a room 18 feet square, with only two small
windows. Next morning only 28 remain alive . . . . 1756
Recapture of Calcutta by Clive. 23rd June. — Battle of Plassey. Clive
with 1000 Europeans, 2000 sepoys, and 8 guns, defeats Snraj-ud-
daulah and 35,000 men, 16,000 horse, and 50 guns. War with
France renewed in the Camatic . . . , . . • 1757
Lally arrives with a French fleet. He takes Arcot. Clive is appointed
the first Governor of the Company's settlements in Bengal . . 1758
Clive defeats the Dutch 1759
Eyre Coote totally defeats Lally at the battle of Wandiwash . . 1759
Arcot taken by the English. Clive sails for England . . . 1760
Pondicherry capitulates to the English. Fall of the French power in
the Deccan 1761
Pondicherry restored to the French by the treaty of Paris. The first
sepoy mutiny in the English camp is suppressed by Hector Munro.
Munro defeats the Nawab of Bengal at the decisive battle of Buxar.
Pupleix dies in poverty in Paris 1764
Lord Clive arrives at Calcutta as Governor-General. The revenues of
Bengal, Behar, and Orissa granted to the Company by the Mogul,
ShahAlamlL . . . . . . . . . . 1765
The Northern Circars ceded to the English. Clive prohibits the
servants of the Company from engaging in private trade or accept-
ing presents, and increases their salaries. Lally is executed at Paris 1766
Clive leaves India. The Nizam and Haidar Ali attack the English . 1767
The Nizam cedes the Camatic . . . . . . . 1768
Terrible famine in Bengal . . . 1770
Warren Hastings, Governor-General . 1772
Supreme Court established at Calcutta. The Dutch expelled from
Negapatam by the English 1773
The Rohilla chiefs defeated by the English. Salsette and Bassein
taken by the Bombay troops. Clive commits suicide in England . 1774
The Nawab of Gudh ceaes Benares . . ... . , . 1775
Chandemagore, Masulipatam, Earikal, and Pondicherry taken from
the French . ... . • . . . . .1777
The first Maratha War begins. General Goddard's celebrated march
across India. Convention of Wargaon . . . . . . 1779
Haidar Ali takes Arcot Captain Popham captures Gwalior. Warren
Hastings wounds Sir Philip Francis (Junius) in a duel . . . . 1780
Digitized by VjOOQIC
IfUrod, REMARKABLE SYBNTS . IxxXl
DATES
Sir Eyre Ooote defeats Haidar Ali at Porto Novo. The English capture
the Dutch ports of Pulicat and Sadras 1781
Death of Haidar AIL The French assist Tipu, his son . 1782
The captured French possessions restored to them by the treaty of
Yersailles 1788
Petce with Tipn ; the conquests on both sides restored. Pitt's Bill
establishes a Board of Control 1784
IStii February. — ^Warren Hastings impeached by the Houseof Oommons,
before the House of Lords, for corruption and oppression . . 1788
Tipa ravages {>art of Travancore 1790
Lcid Comwallis leads the British army against Tipu in person. Takes
Bangalore. Is joined by Nizam Ali and the Peishwa . . . 1791
Tb alUes storm the redoubts at Seringapatam. Tipu yields one-half
•f his dominions, to be divided between the Nizam, the Peishwa,
Old the English ; and agrees to pay £3,000,000 .... 1792
l^ular Civil Ck)urts established in Bengal. The revenue settlement
if Lord Comwallis in Bengal, by which the Zamindars, who had
been the revenue agents of the Mogul, were declared to be the land-
owners, is made permanent. Pondicherry taken from the French
for the third time 1798
3rd April. — Warren Hastings is acquitted after a trial lasting seven
years. The Company grant him £4000 a year for life . . . 1796
rbe Dutch settlements in Ceylon, and the Cape, taken . 1796
Seringapatam stormed, and Tipu slain. His dominions divided be-
tween the Nizam and the English 1799
rhe Nizam gives up his share of Mysore in consideration of English
protection 1800
The Nawab of the Carnatic cedes Nellore, North and South Arcot,
Trichinopoly, and Tinnevelly. The Nawab- Wazir of Oudh cedes
Bohilkund and the Boab. Ceylon made a Crown Colony . . 1801
Treaty of Bassein, by which the foreign relations of the Peishwa are
supervised by the British 1802
'^laratha War. Battle of Assaye, 23rd September ; Wellesley (after-
wards the Duke of Wellington) with 4500 men defeats 50,000 Marathas
under Sindhia and the Raja of Nagpur. Lake defeats the Marathas
at Aligarh, and captures Delhi and Agra. Cession of the greater part
of what are now the North- West Provinces. The Mogul king of
Delhi becomes the pensioner of the British. Conquest of Cuttack . 1803
ilonson's advance into Holkar's territory, and disastrous retreat,
tapture of Indore. Holkar's attack on Delhi defeated . . . 1804
Lake abandons the siege of Bhurtpore. Holkar cedes Bundelkund 1805
Mutiny of sepoys at Vellore. Suppressed by Colonel Gillespie . . 1806
lise of Runjeet Singh in the Punjab 1807
V&r declared against Nepal. Repulse of the British .... 1814
^ckterlony defeats the Ghurkas at Maloun 1815
Treaty of Segowlie. Cession of hill stations . . .1816
Operations against the Pindharis, bands of freebooters. Maratha War.
Battle of Khirki: defeat of the Peishwa and capture of Poona.
Battle of Sitabuldi : defeat of the Raja of Nagpur. Battle of
Mehidpore : defeat of Holkar. Cession of Ajmere oy Sindhia . 1817
lefence of Korygaum by 800 sepoys, with ten British officers, against
25,060 Marathas. Holkar cedes territory. The dominions ot the
Peishwa annexed 1818
krmese War .... 1824
Ctptore of Bhurtpore, hitherto deemed impregnable. Treaty of Yan-
daboo ; cession by the Burmese of Assam, Arracan, and Tenasserini 1820
Ixxiii . AEMAltKABLB EYfiNl^B Tndia
DATES
Sati, or widow - burning, declared "culpable homicide" by Lord
William Bentinck 1829
Renewal of the Company's charter, on condition that the Company
abandons its monopoly of the China trade, and acknowledges the
right of Europeans to reside in India and acquire land . . . 1833
Annexation of Coorjg 1834
Lord William Bentinck leaves India, having abolished sati, suppressed
(with the aid of Sir W. Sleeman) Thuggee, reformed the judicial
administration, restored the use of the vernacular language in all
courts, extended education, effected the revenue settlement of the
North- West Provinces (with the aid of Robert Bird), given the
natives a share in the government, restored the finances, and pro-
moted steam communication vid Suez 1 815
Efforts to eradicate female infanticide. The freedom of the Press
established. Ranjit Singh seizes Peshawur 18S5
Dost Muhammad, Ameer of Afghanistan, receives a Russian mission.
Lord Auckland declares war 1818
Capture of Kandahar and Ghazni, and occupation of Kabul. Shah
Shnja made Ameer. Death of Ranjit Singh. Capture of Aden . 18 3t
2nd November. ^-Murder of Sir A. Bumes at Kabul. 28rd December.
— Murder of Sir W. Macnaghten 1843
Retreat of British army of 4500 men (the remnants of a force of 15,000)
from Kabul, of whom one only. Dr. Brydon, reaches Jellallabad
alive. Pollock forces the Khyber and joins Sale's garrison at
Jellallabad. Murder of Shah Shiga at Kabul and accession of
Akbar Khan. Pollock defeats the Afglians at Tezeen, and re-
occupies Kabul. Lady Sale and the Kabul prisoners ransomed.
Retiu'n of the British anny to India 184'
Sir Charles Napier defeats the Sind armies at Miani and Hyderabad.
Annexation of Sind ......... 184]
First Sikh War. Gough fights an indecisive action at Moodki. Assault
on the Sikh entrenchment at Ferozeshah, which is captured on the
second day after an obstinate struggle. The Sikhs lose 74 guns,
and the British 2400 killed and wounded 1841
Sir Henry Smith defeats the Sikhs at Aliwal. Gough fights a
desperate battle at Sobraon, which ends in the rout of the Sikh army.
Jammu and Kashmir sold to Gholab Singh for £750,000 . . .184
Murder of Vans Agnew and Anderson at Mooltan. Second Sikh War.
Unsuccessful siege of Mooltan 184
Mooltan stormed by General Wlush. Gough fights an indecisive action
at Chilianwallah ; both armies retire ; British loss of 2400 men, 4
gims, and 3 colours. Gough defeats the Sikhs at Giyrat ; they lay
down their arms. Annexation of the Punjab. Annexation of
Sattarah by lapse 18^
Burmese War. Annexation of Pegu 18£
Annexation of Jhansi by lapse 18£
Annexation of Nagpur by lapse. Competitive system for civil appoint-
ments introduce . ISl
7th February. — Annexation of Oudh, owing to persistent misrule.
Xord Dalhousie leaves India, having opened the first railway for
traffic, formed a department of puolic works, introduced cheap
postage, constructed telegraphs, opened the Ganges Canal, and
established an education department with the three universities of
Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay. 29th February.— Arrival of Lord
Canning. The General Service Enlistment Act . . . - 18
Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy, a philanthropic Parsi, made^ Baronet. The
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Inkod, E£MARKABLB fiVBNTd Ixxxiii
PATE8
Mutiny. Febraary. Mutinies at Barrackpore and Berhampore.
The sepoys refuse to use the new cartridges which were greased with
the fat of beef and pork. 8rd May. Sir Henry Lawrence suppresses
a mutiny of the 7th Oudh Irregulars at Lucknow. 9th May. At
Meerut eighty-five sepoys refuse to use even the old cartridges, and
are imprisoned in irons. 10th May. Rising of the sepoys at
Meerut ; they release their comrades from jail, bum the cantonment,
snd make for Delhi. 11th May. The mutineers reach Delhi ;
murder the Europeans ; and proclaim the Mogul as Ruler of India.
80th May* Mutiny in the cantonment near Lucknow. 4th June.
Mutinies at Benares and Allahabad, and slaughter of Europeans.
5th June. Mutiny at Jhansi. Massacre of the Europeans who had
mrrendered on a promise of their lives. Mutiny at Cawnpore. 6th
June. Attack upon Sir Hugh Wheeler in the entrenchment at
Cawnpore. 8th June. Battle of Badli-ka-serai, near Delhi. Defeat
of the rebels and occcupation of the Ridge. 11th June. Arrival of
KeUl with the Madras Fusiliers at Allahabad. 23rd June. This
being the anniversary of the battle of Plassey, the mutineers make a
determined assault on the Ridge at Delhi. 26th June. Capitula-
tion of Sir H. Wheeler at Cawnpore on a promise from the Nana
Sahib that the lives of all will be spared. 27th June. Massacre of
the males of the garrison at Cawnpore by order of the Nana. 2nd
July. Investment of the Residency buildings at Lucknow. Sir H.
Lawrence mortally wounded by a shell. 7th July. Havelock
advances from Allahabad with 2000 men. 16th July. Murder of the
British women and children at Cawnpore by order of the Nana.
17th July. Havelock retakes Cawnpore. 14th August. Anival of
Nicholson's column at the Ridge, Delhi. 6th September. Battering
faain arrives at the Ridge. 14th to 20th September. Delhi stormed
with a loss to the British of 1200 men. Nicholson mortally
wounded. 26th September. Havelock and Outram fight their way
into Lucknow, and are shut in. Death of Neill. 17th November.
Sir Colin Campbell relieves Lucknow. 22nd November. Lucknow
evacaated. 24th November. Death of Havelock. 27th November.
Windham driven into his entrenchments by the Gwalior rebels, who
plunder Cawnpore. 6th December. Sir Colin Campbell defeats the
Gwalior rebels . 1857
fo* Colin Campbell reconquers Lucknow. Sir Hugh Rose captures
Jhansi and Gwalior. Sir Robert Napier (Lord Napier of Magdala)
defeats Tantia Topi Loyalty of Dost Muhammad, Ameer of Afghani-
stan, and Jung Bahadar (of Nepal) throughout the Mutiny. 1st
November. The Government of India transferred from the Company
to the British Crown, represented by a Viceroy .... 1858
income tax imposed 1860
slative Councils established in the three Presidencies . . . 1861
tth from fiimine of one-fourth of the population of Orissa . . 1866
>rkand taken by the Russians 1868
^ ssination of Lord Mayo, the Viceroy, while on a visit to the con-
vict settlement in the Andaman Islands 1872
le Russians, under General Kaufftnann, take Khiva . . . . 1873
luiune in Behar. Government expenditure of £7,000,000 . . . 1874
tisit of H.R.H. the Prince of Wales 1875-6
fcinine. Government expenditure of £8,000,000. Increase of 5,000,000
deaths. British subscription of half a million sterling . . . 1876-8
M January. — H. M. the Queen proclaimed Empress of India at Delhi 1877
Ikere Ali, Ameer of Afghanistan, receives a Russian but not a British
Digitized by Google "'^
IxXXiV RBMAHRABLS EVENTS tfdk
DATES
missiQn. Three British columns move on AfehaliistAn. Capture of
Ali Musjid. Roberts storms the Peiwar Eotal. Flight of Shere Ali
to Turkestan, and accession of his son Yakub Khan. Despatch of .
native troops to Malta 1878
Death of Shere Ali. Treaty of Gundamuk. Sir liouis Gavagnari
is received at Kabul as British representative, but murdered six
weeks after his arrival. Roberts advances ; carries the heights of
Charasiab, takes Sherpur, and enters KabuL Abdication of Yakub
Khan 1879
Ayub Khan defeats General Burrows at Maiwand, with a loss to the
British of 1000 men killed out of 2500 engaged. Brilliant march
by Roberts with 10,000 men to the relief of Kandahar, 313 miles
in twenty -one days. Roberts completely routs Ayub Khan. The
British nominate Abdur Rahman as Ameer. The British forces re-
turn to India 1880
■Skobeleff defeats the Tekke Tui-komans and captures Geok Teppe . 1881
Further advance of the Russians. Death of Skobeleff. Lord Ripou
extends local self-government with some powers of election. Aboli-
tion of customs duties on all articles except intoxicants and arms.
A contingent of the native army is sent to Egypt .... 1882
The Ilbert Bill proposes to ** invest native magistrates in the interior
with powers over European British subjects." Bitter race animosities
aroused. Compromise adopted by which Europeans are entitled to
a jury of which one-half at least are of their own race . . 1883
Occupation of Merv and Sarakhs by the Russians .... 1884
A. Russian force attacks the Afghans at Panjdeh. The Ameer meets
Lord Dufferin at Rawul Pindi, and is given money and munitions
ofwar 188i
King Thebau, of Maudalay, having made overtures to i^'rauce and
refused to receive a British envoy, is deposed. Annexation of Upper
Burma. The National Congress of natives commences its annual
meetings. Delimitation of the northern boundary of Afghanistan by
an Anglo-Russian Commission 188<
16th February. The Jubilee of Her Majesty the Queen Empress
celebrated with great manifestations of native loyalty . . .188
Formation of Imperial Service Troops in Native States . . 188
Completion of the Afghan Frontier Railway and Defences . . 188
Murder of British officers at Manipur. Capture and execution of the
leaders. Visit of the Cesarewitch, now the Czar . . . . 18£
The Indian Councils Act introduces an elective element ' into the
Legislative Councils 18^
The Mints closed to the free coinage of silver ; the value of the rupee
fixed, for Government purposes, at Is. 4d. Compensation given to
officials on account of depreciation of rupee . . . . . 18^
Visit of Sirdar Nasrullah Khan, second son of the Ameer, to England.
Final delimitation of the Pamir Boundary. Chitral Campaign.
Storming of the Malakhand Pass, and relief of the British force in
Chitral. Imposition of import duties 181
Cholera and plague at Bombay. The boundaries of Beluchistan laid
down IS
Plague and Famine. British subscription of more than half a million
sterling. Severe earthquake in Bengal and Assam. Insuboixiination
of tribes on N.W. frontier. Punitive expedition . . . .1.8
d by Google
Tntrod. Indian terms lixxv
SOME NATIVE TERMS USED IN THIS BOOK
fA. sfgnifles Arabic ; H. Hindi^stini or Hindi ; K. Kanarese : Mai. Malaydlam ; M. Mara^hi ;
My. Malay ; P. Persian ; S. Sanscrit ; Tel. Telugu ; Tur. Turkish ; T. Tamil.]
IMIB (Ameer), A. ** commander," a title of princes and nobles, as the Amirs
of Sindh.
Lsi (Anna), H. the 16th part of a rupee.
BabtJl, a. the Acacia arabica tree.
BABij)UB, P. "brave," **chivalric," a title of honour among Mohammedans.
BuxGALOW, H. (bangla) a thatched house ; the name usualfy applied to the
houses of the English in India, and to the rest-houses for travellers built
b^ Government on the public roads.
Bi0Li, trough of water, at a spring, hence a well.
B^B, P. a market or market-place ; a street of shops.
BiBAM (B^om), Tur. a lady of rank ; a queen or princess.
BiATA (Batta), H. additional allowance to public servants or soldiers em-
ployed on special duty.
&AHMAN, S. a Hindii of the first, or priestly caste.
ftiDDHiST, S. a worshipper of Buddh, or Sakya Muiii, who died b.o. 548.
C^STE, class ; sect ; corruption of the Portuguese cdsta or race.
Catamaban, T. hUtUf **to bind," maram^ "a tree," a log-raft on which
the natives of Madras paddle through the surf.
ChIwadi, Tel. a native rest-house for travellers.
Chottltrib, an English corruption of Chawadi, q,v,
Cbunam, S. an English corruption of H. cMn<i,*from S. cMrTUnhf lime, a plaster or
mortar sometimes made of shells of a remarkable whiteness and brilliance.
Compound, probably My. an enclosure. A corruption of the Malay word
Kamjxmg,
Daohopa, Daooba, S. deh^ "the body," gup, "to hide," a circular structure
inside Buddhistic cave temples, supposed to contain the ashes or relics of
Buddha, and occupying the place of our altars.
1>AK, Post. Dak-Bungalow (or Muzafari Bungalow) a Kest-house for travellers.
pABBAR (Durbar), P. a royal court ; an audience or levee.
X>haramsAlA, S. dha/rma, "justice," '* piety," and s^?rf, "a hall," a place
of accommodation for travellers and pilgrims.
I^iwAN, P. ** aroyal court," **a minister," especially the chief financial minister.
tAxisif A. **poor," a religious man, who has taken the vow of poverty.
^hAt (Ghaut), S. ghatta, "a landing-place," "steps on a river side," a
mountain pass ; any narrow passage.
B^OPUBA, H. the ^te of a Pagoda.
fcsAKTHi, Sanscrit written in the Tamil character.
CmUsHTAH, p. an agent
CuMBAz, a cupola ; a dome.
gAMnATi, A. a bearer of a palki, in Bombay an indoor servant.
'^ BiM (Haram), a sanctuary ; ladies' apartments.
tTALBAB, H. an officer in native regiments corresponding to our sergeant.
X7KKAH (Hookah), A. a native pipe.
[imB, A. the royal presence, a respectful term applied to high officials.
K^iE, P. a tenure by which the public revenues of an estate or district were
granted to an individual, with powers to collect them, and administer
the geneiml afiEairs of the estate.
i^^XDJiSLf A. a native officer next to a Siibahdar, and corresponding to our
lieutenant.
J»oj, 1^ Hindu d©v<4®«> as ?akir is a Mohammedi^^. ^ j
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Ixxxvi INDIAN TERMS India
Kaohebi or EAOHHABi, H.M. a court or office for public business.
EhIn, a. a Mohammedan title of nobility answering to our ''lord.*' ■
Eh AS, special Khas Mahal = Hall of special audience.
KuBBAH, A. a tomb.
Kvjji (Cooly), T. and Tur. a day labourer.
tiAKH (Lac), S. the number 100,000.
VLihit S. a garland.
Man (Maund), H. a weight, varying in different parts of India. In Bombiy
it is 25 lbs. ; in Bengal, since 1883, 80 lbs.
Mandapam, S. an open pavilion or porch in front of a temple.
Massulah, T. a boat sewed together, used for crossing the surf at Madras.
MiHBAB, the recess in the wall of a mosque — on the side nearest Mecca — to
which Mohammedans turn at prayer.
MiMBAR, the pulpit in a mosque.
Monsoon, A. a corruption of the A. mavMm, **a season ;'* applied now to
the periodical rains in India which fall during the S.W. Monsoon.
MuNSHi (Moonshee), A. a writer ; a secretary ; a teacher of languages.
MuNSiF, A. a native judge.
NliK, S. an officer in native armies corresponding to a corporal ; an ancient
title.
NlUGH (Nach), S. a dance ; an exhibition of dancing-girls.
Naubat khana, a. the guard-room ; the chamber over a gateway, where a
band is stationed.
NAwAb, a. this word means lit. ** deputies," being the plural of nd*ib, "a
deputy." It is now a title of governors and other high officials.
NizAm, a. an arranger ; an administrator ; a title of the prince whose capital
is Hyderabdd in the Deccan.
Nulla,' properly Nala, "watercourse."
Pagoda, P. an Anglican corruption of the P. word hut-kadahy "an idol
temple"; also a coin=8i rupees, called by the natives him, but de-
riving its appellation of pagoda from its showing a temple on one face ;
there are other derivations.
Pi.L-AL, T. the priests of the Tuda tribe, lit. "milkmen."
PAlegAr (Polygar), T. Tel. a shareholder ; a landed proprietor. A title of
persons in the Madras Presidency who correspond to Zamindars in othe.T
parts of India.
Palanquebn, H. an Anglican corruption of the -wor^ pdUci, a vehicle in whicli
persons of rank are carried on men's shoulders.
PIn, S. the leaf of the betel creeper. Pan-supari is areoa nut rolled in thii
leaf for chewing.
Pi.Rsis, P. a sect who worship the Deity under the emblem fire.
Pb-kovil, T. " devil-temple, a hut dedicated to the worship of the spirit
of dead men.
Peons, from the Portuguese peao, Spanish peouy but sometimes thought ai
Anglican corruption of the H. YfoxA piydddh, "footman."
PeshkAes, p. an agent. In Bengal, the native officer under a judge, next t
the Sarishtaddr in rank.
PeshwjC, p. the prime ministers of the R^as of Satira ; Brahmans who aft«
wards became the supreme chiefs of the Mardtha nation.
PhatbiiXr, M, lU* "a letter carrier," a fast-sailing vessel common on the \S
iioast of India.
Phinr, T. the 7uda name for the stone circles on the Nilgiri Hills.
Pice, H. a corruption of the word paisd, a copper coin, of which 64 fgp to
rupee.
PiB, P. old, a Mohammedan saint.
Ri.j^, S. a Hindfi'king or prince.
\^^U S. the wife of alUja ; a queen or princeg|,^^^, .^ GoOgle
IiM.
HIKDU WOBDS
Ixxxvii
Rath, S. a ch&riot.
RisAt.ahdjLe> a. a natiye captain of a troop of horse.
Riot, A. an Anglican corruption of the A. word r^a^fot, a subject, a peasant.
Sadi Amin, A. a native judge.
Sade 'AdAlat, a. formerly the Supreme Court of Justice in India for trying
appeals.
Sahib, A. lord ; a title applied to English gentlemen in India.
SarAi , a rest-house for travellers ; a caravansaraL
Sati (Suttee), S. the burning of a widow with her deceased husband.
ShAh, p. a king ; a title usually applied to the King of Persia.
SianIbs, T. a tribe in Tinnevelly and the extreme S. of India, who are palm-^
tree ^difflbers by profession.
Shankh, S. a shell ; 1^ Ib^ i^ells which an blown at kc/rm by tte Hindis
during religious ceremonies.
SiOLA, T. a patch of jungle, a wooded delL
SjPAHi (Sepoy), P. a native soldier, one of a 9ipdh or army.
Stbahdae, a. a governor of a province ; a native military officer corresponding
to a captain.
fAHZHi, a division of Zilla (see below), equivalent to Taluk,
fiHslLDAB, A. a native collector of revenue, who is also a magistrate.
rii,*P. a crown.
Talttk, or more properly ta^oMiikahy a district ; a division of a province.
TappIl, H. in Bombay the post ; delivery of letters ; a relay of norses.
TATn, M. matting ; a mat snade.
Teppa Kulam, Smth India, a tank surrounded by steps with usually a
temple in the centre.
TuDAS, T. a remarkable tribe on the Nigiri Hills.
YAhak {or Waman) S. the 5th incarnation of Vishnu, in the shape of a dwarf.
VAziK, A. a prime minister.
ViHi.RA, S. a cell, an apartment in a monastery or cave.
VislAnah, S. a sacred vehicle or shrine.
ZamindAk, p. a landed proprietor, a person who receives a percentage of
€rovemment rents.
Zia2at, a. a burial-place.
ZiL*A (Zillah), A. a province or tract, constituting the jurisdiction of a circuit
judge.
A Few Hindu Words
English.
One
Two
Throe
Four
Rve
Six
Seven
Eight
JTine
Ten
Eleven
Twelve
fhlrte^n
Foiateen
-llfteen
Sixteen
Hindu.
Ek
Do
Tin
Char
Pdnch
Chhah
Sat
Ath
Nku
Das
Igirah
Bdrah
Terah
Chaudah
Pandrah
Solah
English.
Seventeen
Eighteen
Nineteen
Twenty
Twenty-one
Twenty-two
Twenty-three
Twenty-four
Twenty-five
Twenty-six
Twenty-seven
Twenty-eight
Tweniy-nine
Thirty
Thiriy-»ono
Thirty-two ^,^
Hindu.
Satrah
Atharah
Uiiis
Bis
Ikfs
Bdfs
Tefs
Chaubfs
Pachis
Chhabbia
Satdls
Athd'is
Untis './-.
Tis
Iktis
Ixxxviii
English.
Thirty-three
Thirty-four
Thirty-five
Thirty-six
Thirty-seven
Thirty-eight
Thirty-nine
Forty
Forty-one
Forty*two
Forly-three
Foriy-four
Forty-five
Forty-six
Forty-seven
Forty*ei^t
Forty-nine
Fifty
Fifty-one
Fifty-two
Fifty-three
Fifty-four
Fifty-five
Fifty-six
Fifty-seven
Fifty-eight
Fifty-nine
Sixty
Sixty-one
Sixty-two
Sixty-three
Sixty-four
Sixty-five
Sixty-six
Sixty-seven
Sixty-eight
Sixty-nine
Seventy
Seventy-one
Seventy-two
Seventy-three
Seventy-four
Seventy-five
Seventy-six
Seventy-seven
Seventy -eight
Seventy-nine
Eighty '
Eighty-one
Eighty-two
Eighty-three
Eighty-fout
Eighty-five
HINDU WORDS
India
Hindu.
English.
HlNDUt
Tetfs
Eighty-flix
Chhiisi
ChautM
Eighty-seven
Sat^i
Paintis
Eighty-eight
Athasi
Chhattis
Eighty-nine
Nkuasi
Saintis
Ninety
Nauwe
Athtis
Ninety-one
Ikanawe
UfichdHs
Ninety-two
Bdnawe
Chairs
Ninety-tbree
Tiranawe
Iktdlis
Ninety-four
Chauranawo
Be'ah's
Ninety -five
Pachanawe
Tetalis
Ninety-six
Chiydnawe
Chau'dlfe
Ninety-seven
Satanawe
Paintalis
Ninety-eight
Athanawe
Chhiyah's
Ninety-nine
Nindnawe
Saintah's
A hundred
Sau
Athtalis
Two hundred
Do sau
Unchds
Three hundred
Tin sau
Pachds
Four hundred
Chirsau
Ikawan
Five hundred
Panch sau
Bawan
Six hundred
Chhah sau
Tirpan
Seven hundred
Sat sau
Chauwaa
Eight hundred
Ath sau
Pachpan
Nine hundred
Nau sau
Chhapan
A thousand
Hazar
Satawan
Ten thousand
Das hazar
Athawan
A hundred thou-
Lakh
Unsath
sand
Sdth*
A million
Das Ukh
Ik^th
Ten millions
Kror
Bdsath
A quarter
Pdo
Tirsath
A half
AdU
Chausath
Three-quarters
One and a quarter
Paoha, tin pdo *
Painsath
Tiwd
Chhiyasath
One and a half
Derh
Satsath
One and three-
Pdone do
Athstha
quarters
Unhattar
Two and a quartei
Sawddo
Sattar
Two and a half
Arhdi
Ikhattar
Two and three-
Pdone tin
Bahattar
quarters
Tihattar
Three and a
Sawa tin
Chauhattar
quarter
Pachhattar
Three and a half
Sdrhe tin
Chhihattar
Three and three-
Pdone chdr
Sathattar
quarters
Athhattar
Four and a quarter Sawa char
Unasi
Four and a half
Sdrhe char
Assi
Four and three-
Pdone pdnch
Ikdsi
quarters
A third
Be'isi
Tisrd hissan
Tirisi
Two-thirds
Dotisrd'hiassh
Chaurdsi
A fifth
Pdnchwdn hissah
Panchasi
A sixth
Chhathan hissah
I A aoarUr leu than, pdoiu ; a half pioM than, «irJ^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Mrol
INDIAN COtNAGfi
English.
filNDTJ.
English.
Hindu.
A seventh
Sdtwdn hissah
November
KArtik
An eighth
Athwdn hissah
December
Aghan
A tenth
Daswdn hissah
Days.
Bdr,
Mmths.
Mahine.^
Sunday
Etwdr
Monday
Sombar
January
7ebraary
Pus
Tuesday
Wednesday
Mangal
Budh
Xarch
Pha^n
Thursday
Brih
'April
Ciiait
Friday
Juma
May
Vane
Baisakh
Jeth
Saturday
Sanichrd
July
Askrh
East
Purab
August
Sawan
West
Pachhim
September
Bhddon
North
Uttar
October
Asan
South
Dakhin
Ixxxix
Indian Coinage
Silver Goim —
The Rupee (sixteen annas) is assumed to be equal to 2s., but its
value in gold has snnk as low as Is. 2^d.
Half Rupee = eight annas.
Quarter Rupee = four annas.
One Eighth of a Rupee = two annas.
Copper Coins —
One Anna = lour pice = twelve pie.
Half Anna = two pice = six pie.
Quarter Anna = one pice = three pie.
The following Abbreviations are used in the Routes given in
THIS Book. I
.. Post-office.
.. River left bank.
D B i ^^^ Bungalow, a rest
\ house for travellers.
div. Division of the army.
E. I, G. East India Company.
E. East.
n. Feet.
ff. Hotel.
in, Inch.
I Left hand.
juM Junction.
n, Mile.
M North.
P- Page.
p, 0
r,lh. ...
r. h Right bank.
R. Refreshment Room.
R,H. Rest-house.
rly Railway.
rs Rupees.
Roy, As. Soc. Royal Asiatic Society,
r. &rt Right hand.
sta Station.
S, South.
W, West.
yds, Yards.
ifi This sign in the text appended to a name indicates that further informa-
tion relating to the subject is to be found in the hidei^ amd Directory at the
end.
^ The Indian months begin ahout thn 15th of the English month ; thus Pi'is is tli«
latter half of January and the first half of February, and so with all the other months.
d by Google
d by Google
INDIA
BUEMA AND CEYLON
Digitized by VjOOQIC
d by Google
1901-1902.
IMPORTANT INFOEMATION FOR TRAVELLERS
IN INDIA.
Calcutta to Bombay (shortest
boute).
(See Routes 1 and 3).
Xow that the Bengal Nagpur Rail-
WOT has a direct entry into Calcutta,
in* Khargpur, the distance between
tint city and Bombay has been short-
eBfd to 1221 miles, and the journey is
affomplished in 44j hours.
The Grand Circular Tour of
India.
Travellers should note that with the
opening of through direct railway
communication between Calcutta and
Madras, lately effected, and with the
establishment of an " overland '* service
six days a week between Madras and
Colombo, it is now possible to make a
grand cii-cular railway tour through
India, beginning at Bombay and ending
,it Colombo, or vice versdy and visiting
'ill raiUe all places of interest in South-
era, Northern, and Western India.
SKELETON ROUTE.
Calcutta to Madras, 1031 miles,
YTHE BeNGAL-NaGPUR AND MADRAS
UlLWAYS, via MiDNAPUR (Kharg-
I'R), Balasobe, Cuttack (and Puri),
JfliLKA Lake, Vizagapatam, Cocan-
lda, and Bezwada.
Calcutta, see p. 52 (see also Rte. 21).
34 m. Kola Gbaut (R.) Here the
ailway crosses the Roopnarain River,
I large tidal river flowing into the
loognly, at its junction with which
ire the famous James and Mary sands,
he scene of so many wrecks in the
looghly. The bridge over this river,
Ibout i mile in length, is a very fine
iic, and from the engineering diffi-
culties met with in constructing it, it
ranks as one of the most important
bridges in India.
72 m. Kliargpur (R.) An important
station, being the junction of the trans-
peninsular line to Bombay, and of the
Coast line to Madras. There is also a
short branch line to the big town of
Midnapur, an old East India Company
settlement, 8 miles distant, and
another line is now under construction,
which wiU run north-westwards to
Bankura and the Jherriah coalfields.
144 m. Balasore (R.) (D.B.) Head-
quarters of Civil District Government
and an Ordinance station for testing
shells and guns. The open sea makes
it a favourite resort, and it promises to
become in the near future a large
watering place. The delicious pomfret
fish is procurable and is finding its way
into the Calcutta market. There are
large Roman Catholic and Baptist
Missions in the town. The place was
once of great commercial importance,
and both the Dutch and the Danes had
factories here. There are two curious
old Dutch tombs, dated 1683, built
like three-sided pymmids about 20 feet
high in a small secluded enclosure near
the native part of the town.
202 m. Jajpur Road. This is the
station for Jajpur, the ancient capital
of Orissa. (For description, see p. 290
et seq, of Handbook, Fourth Edition. )
253 m. Cuttack (R.) (D.B.) [For
description, see pp. 288, 289 of Hand-
book, Fourth Edition.]
Within 11 miles north and south of
Cuttack the railway line is carried over
no less than five big bridges, the whole
section comprising the most difficult
piece of riverine engineering to be seen
anywhere in India.
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IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO TRAVELLERS IN INDIA
India
270 m. Bhuvaneshwar. V [See pp.
283 et seq. of Handbook, Fourth
Edition.]
282 m. Khurda Road (R.) Junction
for Puri (j^gannath) 28 miles distant.
[See pp. 278 et seq.]
331. m. Burcool. Situated on the
shores of the beautiful Chilka Lake,
the frontier station between Madras
and Bengal Presidencies. [See under
Rambha below.]
344 m. Rambha. [See p. 353 of
Handbook, Fourth Edition. The last
sentence should read : — " It subse-
quently became the property of Mr
Minchin, proprietor of a Distillery and
Sugar Factory at Aska, in the interior
of the District ; and now belongs to
the Rajah of Kallikotah and Atgada."]
351 m. Homma. The site of the
large Government Salt Factory, the
salt being manufactured from sea- water
by evaporation in ** salt-pans," which
can be seen between the railway and
the sea.
355 m. Ganjam. [See under Humma,
p. 353 of Handbook, Fourth Edition.]
360 m. Chatrapur. [See p. 353.]
374 m. Berhampur. [See pp. 352,
353.]
420 m. Palasa (R.) [See p. 353.]
465 m. Chicacole Road. [See p. 353.]
508 m. Vizianagram (R.) [See pp.
352, 353.]
546 m. Waltalr (R.) The junction
between the Bengal-Nagpur Railway
and the Madras Railway systems.
[See pp. 352.]
548 m. Vizagapatam. [See p. 352.]
606 m. Tuni (R). [See p. 352.]
639 m. Saxnalkot Junction (R. ) See
p. 352.]
670 m. Rajahmundry (R.) [See p.
352.]
671 m. Godavery. The site of the
huge Havelock bridge (66 spans of 150
feet) over the Godavery River.
726 m. EUore (R.) [See p. 352.]
763 m. Bezwada Junction (R. ) (D. B. )
An important station, the junction of
three lines : the Madras Railway (East
Coast line) ; the Nizam's Railway,
running due west via Hyderabad and
Secunderabad to Bombay; and the
Southern Mahratta Railway (Bellaiy-
Kistna line) running south-west to
Guntakal Junction. [See pp. 358, 359
and 360.]
809 m. Bapatla (R.)
849. m. Ongole (R.) Important
station of American Baptist Mission.
900 m. Bitragunta (R.)
921 m. Nellore. Head-quarters of a
Civil District of the same name. The
scene of a massacre of French soldiers
in 1758, under orders of Najib-ulU,
who subsequently submitted to the
British. The town contains an old
fort, now in the District Magistrate's
Office, and an old cemetery with graves
dating back to 1785. [See p. 334.]
945 m. Gudur Junction. Junction
for the South Indian Railway branch
line to Renigunta Junction (on the
Madras Railway north-west line), Pak-
ala, and Katpadi (Vellore) Junction
(on the Madras Ilailway south-west
line).
1009 m. Ponneri (R.)
1021 m. Ennur. On a spacious
backwater. Formerly a suburban
resort much frequented by people from
Madras. The site of a large Salt
Factory.
1031 m. Madras (Beach Station).
[For description of Madras, see p. 336
et seq. ]
Madras to Colombo (Overlane
Route).
[See Route 31. The title of this
route should be altered] : — Madras t<
Colombo via Villupuram (for Pon
dicherry), Tanjore Trichinopoly,
Madura and Tuticorin. The de
scription up to p. 407 may be foUowec
until ' ' 425 m. Maniyachi " is reached
when it should continue thus : —
425 m. Maniyadii Junction. Hen
a branch line runs to Tinnevelly an<
Palamcotta. [For description of thea
see pp. 407 and 408.]
443 m. Tuticorin (R. ) The southei^
terminus of the Railway, and tl^
embarking place for Colombo.
d by Google
IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO TRAVELLERS IN INDIA
ffistorical* — Tuticorin was originally
a Portuguese settlement, and was
founded about 1540. In 1658 it was
raptured by the Dutch, and in 1782
fij the English. It was restored to
the Dutch in 1785 and again taken by
the English in 1795. During the
Poligar war of 1801, it was held for a
short time by the Poligar of Panchal-
auikurichi, and was ceded to the Dutch
iu 1818. It was finally handed over
to the English in 1825.
Objects of Interest. — The old Dutch
ceietery containing several tombstones,
on wl)iioh ^ve carved armorial bearings
and raised insciiptions, is worthy of a
visit. Twenty miles south of Tuticorin
on the sea lies the village of Ti'iohen-
dur, which contains a large and impor-
tant temple dedicated to Subramanya,
the God of war, and second son of Siva.
The temple contains some excellent
sculpture and several inscriptions. A
few miles further south is a group of
16 columns each bearing an inscription.
There is a good road to Trichendur, and
carts can be hired for the journey there
from Tuticorin at Rs. 5 each.
VnCOBIN (R.) I
Hotel : British India H. , |
immediately opposite the
station, has accommoda-
tion for three first-class and
two second-class visitors.
The charge for board and
lodging is —
First class, Rs. 4-8-0 ) per
Second „ „ S-O-Ofdiem
Road Conveyance :
Carriages and jutkas are
usually procurable at the
station, the fares being 8
and 2 annas per mile, re-
spectively. Bullock-carts
can be hired in the town,
the charge being 2 annas
per mile.
Railway Facilities :
first and second class car-
rJa^ges are run to and from
the pier in connection with
the departure and arrival of
the 3£iil steamers to and
from Colombo. Waiting
accommodation is provided
at the station for ladies and
gentlemen, and there is
also a Ref^shment Room
under the management of
Messrs Spencer & Co. The
hatler in charge has usually
a few copies of the Madras
Mail and Madras Times for
ale, as well as a small
itock of travellers* requis-
ites. In case of the late
i^val of the Colombo
ileamer, Messrs Spencer &
Co. can generally arrange
to serve breakfast in the
todo. Ice and aerated
vsters are carried by all
oyUn line Mail trains dur-
\b% da>y journeys, and can
bo purchased at the rates
nilmshed in the Company's
Side.
gbippliig Arrange-
ments : A* British India
Steam Navigation Com-
pany's steamer leaves daily
(Sundays excepted) at 6 '
P.M. for Colombo, and one |
arrives from Ceylon daily
(Mons. excepted) at about & j
A.M. , the passage occupying |
about 16 hours. The jour-
ney between the pier and
steamer is made in a steam
launch belonging to the
British India Steamer
Agents at Tuticorin, and
occupies about three-quar-
ters of an hour. For fur-
ther particulars, in con-
nection with the launch
service, the Company's
Guide should be consulted.
The British India Com-
pany's coasting steamers
between Calcutta and
Bombay touch at Tuticorin
once a week and their
other vessels as occasion
offers. The Asiatic Com-
pany's steamers and those
of the Japanese line also
call at the port. A large
number of sailing boats of
20 tons burden are always
procurable on an average
payment of Rs. 12.8 per
trip to steamer and back.
The pier belongs to Govern-
ment, and is under the
control of the Port OflRcer.
There are also several pri-
vate jetties belonging to
the various mercantile
firms.
Local Manufacturers
and Products: There is
a large Government salt
factory about a mile-and-a-
half from the station, with
which it is connected by a
siding. In the town are
several cotton presses and
an important Spinning
Mill. Tuticorin is the
centre of very ancient
pearl and conch shell fish-
eries, but since the deep-
ening of the Pamban Chan-
nel between India and
Ceylon, the yield has
greatly decreased. The
Manaar pearl, which is not
of good colour, is usually
fished for in March, April
and May, under Govern-
ment management.
Local Officials: The
oflBcials having offices at
Tuticorin are the Sub-
Collector, Deputy Tahsil-
dar, Sub-Registrar, Assis-
tant Superintendent and
Inspector of Police, Assis-
tant Commissioner of Salt
and Abkari, Customs Sup-
erintendent, and the Port
Ofticer, who is also the
Superintendent of Pearl
Fisheries. The Bank of
Madras and National Bank
of India have branches,
and British India and Asi-
atic Steam Navigation
Companies, Agencies in the
town.
Missions, Churches,
etc : The Society for the
Propagation of the Gospel
maintains a training school,
and a College named after
the late Bishop Caldwell.
Within easy reach of the
station are a Protestant
and two Roman Catholic
Churches. The native
fishing community profess
Christianity to a large
extent, and are almost
entirely Roman Catholics.
Club : A Club for Euro-
peans is situated on the
sea front.
d by Google
IMPORTANT INFORMATION TO TRAVELLERS IN INDIA
India
p. Ixxxix. — Silver CoinsL^The value
of the Rupee iu gold is iio\r fixed at 1/4.
P. 289, line 34— * "The launches . .
Calcutta. " — This is not required now
that through railway cdhimunication
is opened from Calcutta to Madras.
P. 318, col. 1, line 10.-
40 houra read 32 hours.
-For about
P. 366, col. 2, line 2 from bottom—
Cannannore. — A railway S. along
the coast, via Tellicherry, to Calicut
is about to be opened (1901) and
eventually it is to be continued N. to
Mangalore, p. 365.
P. 369, col. 1, line 10 from bottom-
Cochin. — A i-ailway to Shoran on the
Madras Railway (Calicut line) is now
(1901) being constructed, and will
shortly be opened.
P. 405, col. 1, line 14. —Madura.—
A railway is now (1901) being con-
structed from here to Paunben (Rames-
waram, pp. 371 and 400), which will
probably take the place of Tuticorin as
the starting place for steamers for
Colombo, deep water allowing vessels
to get close in shore, whereas at Tuti-
corin they have to lie several miles
out.
P. 376, col. 1, line 4 from bottom.—
Bowringpet.— The Kolar Gold Mines
are well worthy of a visit, over 50,000
miners are employed. Since 1881 the
yield has been £12,000,000. It is
proposed to work the mines bv elec-
tricity to be generated by the force of
the Cauvery Falls (p. 279).
P. 388, col. 1, last line— Mettupil-
aiyam. — This is the terminus of the
broad-guage line, and the junction with
the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, which
mns as far as Coonoor, 17 miles, and
which is eventually to be continued to
Ootacamund, 12 miles further. The
Nilgiri Railway is the metre gauge,
and on the mountain gradient is fur-
nished with a central rack rail, enabling
it to ascend 1 in 12. The scenery is
magnificent, and the journey up, in
the course of which the line ascends
6000 feet, occupies 3^ hrs., the journey
down occupying 2 J hi-s. From Coonoor
to Ootacamund the journey is done in
pair-horse cunicles (tongas) provided
by the Railway Company, w^hich under-
takes through booking for passengers
and luggage.
d by Google
y Google
d by Google
BOMBAY :^i AND ENVIRONS.
CONTENTS.
k>laba Cemetery
temetery, Parell .
neteries
Ation Orotind .
ilence .
1 Saints', Malabar Hill
■ch, Byculla
•cb, frgaon
I of Scotland
holic Church
1*8 (Scotch Presbyterii
I Colaba
ian)
;Mazagon
dex and Directory).
E O., Prince's, Sassoon,
k Graving, Merewether
I Institutions —
I College for Parsi Ladies
"If ission) High School
i-Islam .
|Hi^ School for Girls .
De College .
one High School
tArt . . .
f Jesuit College
>le8 of Kanhari
^ Falls
rCave
r Caves
voir
Cription of Bombay
il Position
i Houses, Malabar Point,
Vic.
PAGE
18
7
10
10
10
10
10
10
9
10
10
10
10
10
9
10
10
Parell 6
J Index and Directory).
fArts and Manufactures
OharltaUe and otherwise,
Is, etc. —
[^Hospital . . . .
nt Home, Colaba
Institutions, etc.—
European General Hospital
Gokaldas Hospital .
Grant Medical College .
House of Correction .
Incurable Hospital
Jamshidji Dharmsala .
„ Hospital
Motlebai Obstetric Hospital
Ophthalmic Hospital .
Parsi Almshouse ....
„ Dharmsala ....
Pestonji Kama, for Women and Children
PinjraPol
Sailors' Home ....
St. George's Hospital .
Sir Jamshidtji Jijibhai's Parsi Benevo-
lent Institution
Sir D. M. Petit Hospital .
Workhouse
Institutions— Literary and Scientific-
Anthropological Society
Asiatic Society ....
Mechanics* or Sassoon Institute .
Natiu^ History Society
Landing and Landing-places .
Lighthouses — Kennery, Prong
Markets —
Cotton Market, Colaba
Crawford „ ....
Nul ,
Missions
Municipal Buildings
Museum and Victoria Gardens
Native Quarter ....
Observatory at Colaba .
Public Offices-
Courts of Justice ....
Mint ... . .
Post Office
Presidential Secretariat
Public Works' Secretariat .
Telegraph Office ....
Town Hall
University Library and Clock Tower
University Hall ....
Shooting
Shops (see Index and Directory).
Statues ....
Suburbs— Breach Candy, Byculla, Mala
bar Hill, Mazagon, Parell .
Temples— Hindu ....
Victoria Railway Station
13
is
14
15
14
14
14
14
14
15
14
IS
15
13
18
14
14
15
15
15
15
15
17
16
17
10
7
16
17
7
4
5
5
4
6
5
5
4
4
18
15
S
18
6
from one another by very narrow chan-
nels, some of which have now been filled
up. They are : 1. Bassein ; 2. Dravi ; 3.
Versova ; 4. Salsette ; 5. Trombay, in
mark implies that further information is to be found in the Index and Directory
HD OF Bombay is situated in
8'46", long. 72''52'. It is one
J of islands which were at one
ii-ated from the mainland and
Digitized
byGooglec
BOMBAY AND BNVIBONS
Iniii
which the hill called the Neat's Tongue,
900 ft high, is a conspicuous mark ;
6. Bombay ; 7. Old Woman's Island ;
8. Colaba; 9. Elephanta; 10. Butcher's
Island; 11. Oibbet Island; 12. Ear-
anja.
Bombay Island is 11} m. long from
the S. extremity of Colaba to Sion
Causewayi over which the railway passes
to the larger island of Salsette, and from
8 to 4 m. broad in that portion which
lies to the N. of the Esplanade. It is
difficult to estimate its area, but it
may be put down as about 22 sq. m.
The last census (1891) of the city is
821,764, viz. :
HiDdofl . . 548,291
Mohammedans 154,247
Qhristians . 45,810
Baddhists 190
Jains . 25.225
Parsil . .47,458
Jews . . 5,021
Atheists, other
than Buddhists
and Jains . 8S
Limiting the area of Calcutta to the
municipality, and excluding the
suburbs, Bombay ranks as the second
most populous city in the British
Empire. Most of its population is
crowded into an area or about 4
sq. m. From the 8th August 1896
to the 80th June 1897, there were
27,597 deaths in Bombay of plague,
or bubonic fever. Of those attacked
60 p. c. died. The epidemic was of
a comparatively mild form, but re-
sulted in great loss to business men,
owing to the world-wide quarantine
imposed upon all vessels from Bombay.
Climate. — ^The average temperature
of Bombay is 79*2** F. It is neither
so hot in summer nor so cold in winter
as many places in the interior. The
coolest months are from November till
March. The S.W. monsoon begins
about the second week in June, and the
rains continue till the end of September.
The average rainfall is 70*80 in.
Bombay Harbour.— On approaching
Bombay from the W. there is little to
strike the eye. The coast of the island
is low, the highest point, Midabar
Hill, being only 180 ft. above the sea.
But on entering the harbour a stranger
must be impressed with the pictur-
esqueness of the scene. To the W*
the shore is crowded with buildings
some of them, as Colaba Church mi
the Tower of the University, very lofty
and well proportioned. To the K.md
£. are numerous islands, and on till
mi^inland hills rising to an altitude cH
from 1000 to 2000 ft Pre-emiMni
amongst these is the remarkable Ull
of Bawa Malane, otherwise called Ibl-
lan^idh, on tiie top of which is in
enormous mass of rock with perpn*
dicular sides, crowned with a fort »w
in ruins. On the plateau below fte
scarp was a strone fortress which, in
1780, was captured by Captain Abiig-
ton, who, however, found the np|er
fort quite impregnable. (See Grait
Duff, vol. iL p. 41.)
The port is crowded with vessels d
all nations, and conspicuous amongst
them are 2 monitors, for the defence o^
the Harbour. These are called the
Abyssinia and the Magdala, and are
armed with 8-inch guns in 2 turrets.
There are also 2 torpedo catchers,
and 6 fast torpedo boats. The main
defences, remoaelled and armed with
the newest and heaviest guns, consiBt
of batteries on the islands in the
harbour. The fort most to the S. is
called the Oyster Roek; that on the
Middle Ground shoal is in the middle
of the anchorage. The third defence
is on Cross Island, at the N. end of th(
anchorage. The higher part of thii
island has been cut down and armec
with a battery, in addition to whicl
there are 8 large batteries on the main
land.
Tianding and Landing • plaoM. -
Passengers are landed at the Ballari
Pier in launches. The Custom-Hous
officers come on board for the inspec
tion of personal baggage, but hear
boxes are more conveniently pa8se<
through at the Custom House. Th
hotel authorities and Messrs. T. Coo]
& Son generally send representative
to meet passengers by each steamei
It is convenient for travellers to entrus
their baggage to one of them, or t
their private native servant, if the
have engaged one beforehand and haA
instructed him to meet them on boan
d by Google
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
I th« steamer arrives at night, it is
ihrisable to remain on board until the
loming. The P. & 0, steamer, after
bding the mail and most of the pas-
iDgen, proceeds about 1 m. N. up
le harlK>ur to the docks. Though
le new tariff of 1894 has increased the
iltmber of articles dutiable, those which
tre trouble ar« firearms only. If these
ve not been in India before, or
kve not been in India for a year, a
Ighfli valorem duty is levied on them,
Hd they cannot be removed from the
(usbm House until the duty is paid,
t atertificate given that a full year has
lotilapsed since the owner left India.
laTellers who have not been in the
t4 before will be struck by the pic-
toKqneness of the scene on landing in
Bftbay. The quaint native craft at
Aquay ; the crowds of people dressed
■ the most brilliant and varied cos-
ines ; the Hindus of different castes ;
h Mohammedans, Jews, and Parsis,
■ith a sprinkling from other national-
ities; the gaily painted bullock- carts,
■d other sights of equal novelty, com-
iie to make a lasting impression on
le stranger's mind.
Q«naral Description of Bombay and
Iburbs.— The Apollo Bandar, where the
kveller used to land, is in the modern
kronean quarter. As he stands facing
I, the narrow promontory of Colahia
foehind him to the S.E. ; on his right
• the Yacht Club; and before him
letches the main thoroughfare of the
fr, passing through ' * The Fort, " with
■ business quarter on the rt., and the
►nd array of Public Buildings — the
ide of modem Bombay — on the 1.
J^ogb other modem cities may boast
■finer individual buildings, none can
toparewith these m general arrange-
ifcBt and unity of effect, "conceived
V the most part with a happy inspira-
wi which blends the Gothic and the
Mian schools of architecture. "^ On
farther side W. they face Back Bay.
■weeding N. the promontory upon
■ich Bombay stands widens. On the
*wne right are the docks and dock-
Ws, on the left the bay trends away
^ and 8. to Malabar Hill and Malabar
^ 81? Edwin Arnold's India Revisited.
Point. In the centre, at the junction
of two thoroughfares, are Victoria Sta-
tion and the new Municipal Offices,
the largest and most elaborate build-
ings in Bombay, with the Crawford
Market beyond ; and then commences
the densely populated native citv, which
extends N. for 2 m. to the suourbs of
Mazagon and Byculla, and to the foot
of MiQabar and Camballa Hills.
The best suburb is Malabar Hill
(about 8i m. from the Fort), which
affords the highest and healthiest situa-
tion, and is covered with charming villas
and bungalows surrounded by gardens.
These chiefly belong to wealthy natives,
but are for the most part inhabited by
Europeans and Parsis. Unfortunately
the best and highest position of all
is occupied by the gardens attached
to the Towers of Silence (see below).
Along the top of the same ridge is
the Ladies' Gymkhana — a favourite
resort in the evenings (see Index),
and the little Church of All Saints.
At Malabar Point, at the extreme
S. W., is Government House, and
close to it the Temple of Walkesh-
war, in an unhealthy depression. To
the N.E. is Camballa Hill and
Breach Candy, overlooking the Indian
Ocean, where there are numbers
of pleasant bungalows and villas.
To the N. is Parell, where are the
old Government House and the Vic-
toria Gardens ; and to the W. the
suburbs of Byculla and Mazagon, which
include many cotton and other manu-
factories and warehouses. At Mazagon
are some of the docks, including those
of the P. & 0. Company.
Public Offices.
One of the most conspicuous features
in Bombay is the impressive line of
government buildings which face Back
Bay and succeed one another in the fol-
lowing order, from S.to N. : the Govern-
ment Secretariat, close to Watson's
Hotel on the Esplanade, University
Hall, Library aiid Clock Tower, Law
Courts, Public "Works' Secretariat, Post
Office and Telegraph Offices. There
is a building to the N.E. of the Tele-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
graph Offices which is used for the
accommodation of the employes of the
telegraph department.
The Presidential Secretariat is 443
ft. long, with two wings 81 ft long.
In the first floor are the Council HaD,
50 ft. long, Committee Rooms, Private
Rooms for the Governor and Members
of Council, and the Offices of the
Revenue Department. The second
floor contains the Offices of the Judicial
and Military Departments. The style
is Venetian Qothic, and the designer
was Col. Wilkins, R.E. The carving
is by native artists. The staircase is
lighted by the great window, 90 ft.
high, over which rises the tower to 170
ft. At the entrance are the arms of Sir
B. Frere (who was Governor when the
plans were formulated for erecting
Public Buildings, and to whom Bom-
bay owes many of its improvements)
and Sir S. Fitzgerald, and there is a
very handsome armoire made of teak,
inlaid with black wood, all the work
of native ai-tisans.
The Uniyersity Library and Clock
Tower form a grand pile, designed by
Sir Gilbert Scott in the style of 14th-
century Gothic. The Library is a long
low room adorned with carving, and the
Great University or Rajabai Tower on
the W. side forms part of it, and is from
its height the most conspicuous building
in Bombay. It is 260 ft. high, and
was built at the expnse of Mr. Prem-
chand Raichand, in memory of his
mother, Rajabai. It cost 300,000 rs.
He also gave 100,000 rs. for the Library ;
and these sums with accumulations
more than sufficed to complete the two
buildings. The Tower, from the top of
which there is a fine view of Bombay,
is divided into 6 stories, and is sur-
mounted by an octaconal lantern spire,
with figures in niches at the angles.
There are 24 fibres in all upon the
tower representing the castes of W.
India. The first floor forms part of
the upper room of the Library, and the
second contains a study for the Regis-
trar. There is an opening several feet
square in the centre of each floor, so
that one can look up 115 ft. to the
ceiling of the Dial Room. The fourth
floor is for the great clock. Under the
dials outside are 4 small galleries, vith
stone balustrades.
University HalL— This fine building,
in the French Decorated style of the
15th cent, is 104 ft. long, 44 ft. broid,
and 68 ft high to the apex of the
groined ceiling, with an apse separated
from the Hall by a grand arch, ani a
gallery, 8 ft broad, round three site.
The painted glass windows have an
excellent effect, and are also most vm-
ful in tempering the fierceness of fte
Indian sun. The Hall, designed by 8u
Gilbert Scott, R.A., is called after ftr
Cowasjee Jehangir, who contributed
100,000 rs. towards the cost of erection.
It was completed in 1874.
The Cotute of Justice. — This im-
mense building, 562 ft long, with a
tower 176 ft. high, was designed by
Gen. J. A. Fuller, R.E., is said to have
cost £100,000, and was opened in 1879.
The style is Early English. Th^
principsd entrance is under a large
arched porch in the W. &9ade, on
either side of which is an octagon towei
120 ft. high, with pinnacles of white
Porbandar stone, and surmounted hy
statues of Justice and Mercy. The
main staircase is on the E. side, and if
approached by a noble groined corridoi
in Porbandar stone, which runs througl
the building. The oflBces of the Higl
Court are on the first and third uppei
floors. The Appellate and Origins
Courts are on the second floor. Th<
Criminal Court is in the centre of thi
building, above the main corridor
and has a carved teak gallery for thi
public running round 8 sides. Thi
ceiling is of dark polished teak ii
panels, with a carved centre-piece
The floor is Italian mosaic. From th
windows of the tower fine views ar
obtained. On the £. are the harbour
fringed with islands, Modi Bay, and th
Fort ; and to the W. are Malabar Hil
Back Bay, and S. Colaba Point
Separated from the Post Office by
broad road which leads E. to the Foi
by Church Gate Road, and W. to th
Church Gate station of the B. B.
d by Google
*1
PUBLIC OFFICES
dl. fiailway, is the Public Works'
fecretariat, with a fa9ade 288 ft. long ;
ike central part having 6 stories.
The Railway, Irrigation, etc. De-
^rtments are in this office.
Tlie Post Office has 3 floors, and is
3(2 ft long; with wings on the N. side.
It is in the mediaeval style (architect,
Irutshawe). The stone used is the
Ame as that of the Telegraph Offices ;
tie tmui^ment is exceUent in point
tf cmvenience.
Ike Telegraph Office, in modem
Gotic style, has a fa9ade 182 ft long.
Thi facing is of coursed rubble stone
fro Coorla in Salsette, and the columns
anof blue basalt.
The State Becord Office and Patent
flfice occupy the W. wing of the
flphinstone College, close to the
Jiechanics* Institute. Amongst the
records are preserved the oldest docu-
ment relating to the Indian Empire, a
fetter from Surat, 1630 ; and the letter
rf the Duke of Wellington announcing
4e victory at Assaye.
: The Town Hall, in the Elphinstone
j6rele, designed by Col. T. Cowper, was
rsned in 1 835, and cost about £60,000,
far the larger portion being defrayed
^ the E. I. Comp. The buflding has
I colonnade in iront, and the fa9ade
1260 ft. long. The pillars in front,
fed ^ external character of the
^ce, are Doric ; the interior is Cor-
Ithian.
On the ground floor are : the Medical
fcard oihces, in which are four hand-
|me Ionic pillars, copied from those
<a temple on the banks of the llyssus ;
ad the office of the Alilitary Auditor-
fenend, and some of the weightier
inosities of the Asiatic Society. In
le upper story is the Grand As-
lubly Soom, 100 ft. square, in which
iblic meetings and balls are held ;
Assembly Room of the Bombay
ktk Society ; and the Library of
Society, founded by Sir James
' itoeh, containing about 100,000
A stranger can have gratui-
to the rooms for a month by
an order from one of the members of
the Society. The Levee Rooms of the
Governor and the Commander-in-Chief,
the Council Room, etc., are no longer
used for their original purposes. The
place of honour in the Grand Assembly
Rooms is occupied by a statue of the
distingulBhed Governor Mountstuart
Elphinstone, executed by Chantrey, as
are also those of Sir J. Malcolm and
Sir C. Forbes. At the head of the
staircase, on one side, is a fine statue
of Lord Elphinstone, the Governor
during the Mutiny, and on the other
side is a statue of Sir Bartle Frere, an
excellent likeness. Between the cir-
cular flights of stairs is the statue of
Sir Jamsnidji Jijibhai.
The Council Room contains mctures,
by Mr. Wales, of Baji Rao Peshwa,
(whose adopted son, Nana Dhundu
Pant, will be ever infamous as the
author of the massacre at Cawnpore) ;
of Baji Rao's celebrated minister, Nana
Farnavis ; and of Mahada^i Sindia.
In the Asiatic Society's Library are
busts of Sir James Carnac by Chantrey
and Sir J. Mackintosh. The Geo-
graphical Room contains pictures of
Sir A. Burnes, and Sir C. Malcolm
and Captain Ross, the two first Presi-
dents of the Geographical Society ;
also a very fine collection of maps.
The Mint is close to the Town Hall,
but farther back, having a tank in front
of it. It is a plain building, with an
Ionic portico, designed by Major J.
Hawkins, and completed in 1829. It
stands upon reclaimed land, where con-
siderable difficulty was experienced in
laying the foundations : tne cost was
in consequence very great. Author-
ity was granted to the Company by
the Crown to establish a mint so early
as 1676. In the Bullion Room there
are sometimes from £100,000 to
£200,000 of silver in London bare,
weighing 80 lbs. each, and San Fran-
cisco bars, weighing 100 lbs. It is
unnecessary to describe the working
of the mint which resembles that of
similar institutions. Forty specimens
of false coins are exhibited, one of
which has been a good coin, but all
the silver has been scooped ^ut and
Digitized by VjGOQIC
J
6
BOMBAY AND ENVIBONS
India
lead substituted. These coins have
been collected since September 1872.
Adjoining the Mint, on the Ballard
Road, are the administrative offices of
the Port Trust, an imposing building.
Government House at Malabar
Point. — It is a pleasant drive of about
4 m. from the Foit along the seaside,
skirting Back Bay, which on account
of the sea-breeze is cooler, though less
interesting, than through the hot and
crowded bazaars. At about 3 m. from
the Fort the road begins to ascend a
spur of Malabar HilL Near the top
on the 1. are the entrance gates to
the drive, which in less than i m.
through a shady grove of trees by the
sea-shore leads to Government House.
It is a building of no architectural pre-
tensions, but is simply a bungalow, or
rather a series of bungalows, with large
cool rooms and deep verandahs over-
looking the sea, and a pleasant view
across Back Bay to the city of Bombay
on the farther side. Some of the de-
tached bungalows are for the Governor's
staff and for guests, all being from 80
to 100 ft. above the sea. Below them
at the extreme point is a battery, which
could sweep the sea approach. Not
far off to the N. a large ship, the
Diamond, was wrecked and 80 pas-
sengers were drowned. Sir Evan Nepean
was the first Governor to reside at Mala-,
bar Point. He went there in 1813, as
the cool sea-breeze was indispensable to
his health, and built an additional room
to the Sergeants' quarters, which was
the only house existing in the neigh-
bourhood. In 1819-20, Mr. Elphin-
stone added a public breakfast-room,
and a detached sleeping bungalow on
a small scale. In 1828 Sir John Mal-
colm gave up, for public offices, the
Government House in the Fort and the
Secretary's office in Apollo Street, and
considerably enlarging the residence at
Malabar Point, regularly constituted it
a Government House. Close by is the
picturesque temple of Walkeshwar (see
below). The drive from Malabar Point,
and thence along the sea by Breach
Candy, is one of the most beauti-
ful in the island, and is thronged
with carriages and equestrians every
evening. Finer still is that recently
opened up bv Gibbs Road, continuing
the Ridffe Road through a garden of
ferns and crotons to Camballa Hill.
Government House at Parell was a
Portuguese place of worship and mon-
astery, confiscated by the English
government on account of the traitor-
ous conduct of the Jesuits in 1720.
Governor Hornby was the first -who
took up his residence there, between
1771-80.
To supply the required accommoda-
tion Mr. Elphinstone built the ri^t
and left wings. The public rooms are
in the centre facing the W. ITie
drawing-room or ballroom above the
dining-room occupies the place of the
old Portuguese chapel. On the staircase
there is a bust, and in the ballroom a
portrait, of the Duke of Wellington.
At the end of the ballroom is what is
called the Darbar Room. From the S.
corridor steps descend to a platform in
the garden, where the band plays.
The garden of Parell is pretty, and
has at its W. extremity a tank, and on
its margin a terrace, which rises about
10 ft. above the water and the grounds.
Since 1880 the Governors have Uved
principally at Malabar Point, and Parell
House has been only used by the (Gover-
nor occasionally for garden-parties in
the winter.
The Victoria Station, terminus of
the Great Indian Peninsular Railway,
stands in a conspicuous place, in the
angle between the Esplanade Market
Road and the Boree Bandar Road, within
a few minutes walk of the Fort. It is
a vast building, elaborately ornamented
with sculpture and surmounted by a
large central dome ; at the same time
its arrangements are found to be practi-
cally most convenient The architect
was F. W. Stevens, CLE. ; the style
is Italian Gothic, with certain Oriental
modifications in the domes. It cost
the Rly. Comp. £300,000, and was
completed in 1888. It is one of the
handsomest building in Bombay, and
the finest rly. sta. m India, if not in
any country.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
1. Victoria Museum.
2. Gowalee Tank.
3. Native Theatre.
4. Jail.
5. CtariBt Church.
6. Free Church High School.
7. European and Mohammedan Bury-
ing-grounds.
S. Gokaloas Hospital.
9. St. Xayier College.
10 School of Art.
Tofiustp. 6.
11. Marine Battalion Lines.
12. Gaiety and Novelty Theatres.
13. European General Hospital.
14. Mint.
16. Town Hall.
16. St Andrew's Church.
17. Lunatic Asylum.
18. English Cemetery.
19. Wilson College.
20. Elphinstone Reclamation.
d by Google
Digitized by VjOOQIC
THE CUSTOM HOUSE — THE DOCKYARD
Tbe Municipal Buildings (architect,
F. W. Stevens, CLE.) occupy the angle
between the Hornby and Cruicksbank
Roads, opposite the Victoria Rly. Sta.
The Oriental feeling introdnced into
the Gothic architecture has a pleasine
effect The tower, 255 ft. high, and
saimounted by a masonry dome, can
be seen from aU parts of Bombay. The
central gable terminates in a statue 13
ft. high representing "Urbs prima in
Indis." The ^rand staircase is also
cnnnied by an imposing dome.
Between the Mint and the Custom
HoQse are the remains of the Castle,
coiering 300 sq. ft. Only the walls
fadng the harbour remain. There is
a flagstaff here from which siffuals are
oule to ships, and also a clock tower,
ibere a time signal-ball, connected by
la electric wire with the Observatory
It Colaba, in which are valuable
arrangements for magnetic and other
observations, falls at 1 p.m.
Adjoining the Castle is the Arsenal
[order for admittance must be obtained
from the Inspector-General of Ordnance
at Poona). Besides the usual warlike
materials, harness, tents, and other
such necessaries for army equipment
are made here ; and here also is an
interesting collection of ancient arms
md old native weapons of various
tescriptions.
The Custom House is a large, ugly
tld building, a little to the S. of the
town Hall and Cathedral It was a
Portuguese barrack in 1665, and then a
marter for dvil servants. Forbes in
ba Oriental Memoirs says that in 1770
ke was there and could get no supper
ir candles, so he sat on the roof read-
ng Shakespeare by moonlight It be-
came a Custom House in 1802. The
landing-place E. is called the Town
^ndar. The Dockyard extends hence
to the Apollo Gate, with a sea-face of
learly 700 yds.
The Dodcyard.~So early as 1673
the East India Company had been
impelled to build snips of war to
protect their merchantmen from the
ttacks of the Haratha and Malabar
lirates. Surat, however, was the
diief station for building vessels, and
ip to 1785 there were no docks in ex-
istence at Bombay. In that year a
vessel was built at Surat for the Com-
Cy, and an officer despatched from
nbay to inspect it Being much
pleased with the skill and intelligence
of the Parsi foreman, Lowii Naushir-
wanji, and knowing that the Govern-
ment was desirous of establishing a
building-yard at Bombay, this officer
endeavoured to persuade him to leave
Surat and take charge of it. The Parsi,
however, had too much honesty to
accept this advantageous offer without
permission from his master to whom he
was engaged. On its being granted, he
proceeded to Bombay with a few arti-
ficers, and selected a site for the docks.
Next year Lowji was sent to the N. to
procure timber, and on his return he
brought his family with him. From
that day to this the superintendence
of the docks has been wholly in Lowji's
family ; or, as it is well expressed by
a well-known writer, "The history of
the dockyard is that of the rise of a
respectable, honest, and hard-working
Parsi family." Up to this time the
king's ships had been hove down for
repairs at Hog Island. About 1767
it became necessary to enlarge the yard.
In 1771 two grandsons of Lowii —
Framji Manikji and Jamsbidji Banm-
aiyi— entered the dockyard, working
as common carpenters at 12 rs. a
month. In 1774 Lowji died, leaving
only a house and a sum of money undei
£3000. He bequeathed, however, to
his family a more precious legacy,
— the remembrance and prestige of
his character for spotless integrity.
Manikji succeeded him as master-
builder, and Bahmanji was appointed
his assistant, the two managing the
docks with increased success. They
built two fine ships of 900 tons, and
the men-of-war crippled in the severe
actions between Sir Edward Hughes
and Admiral Suffrein were docked at
Bombay. Bahmanji died in 1790, in
debt ftnd Manikji two years afterwards;
leaving but a scanty sum to his family.
Their sons succeeded them. Jam-
sbidji in 1802 built the ComwaUis
frigate for the East India Company
and his success determined the Home
Government to order^he construction
Digitized by VjOOQ
8
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
of ships for the Royal Navy at Bombay.
In consequence of his talents, he was
permitted to have the sole supervision
as master builder. In 1805 the dock-
yard was enlarged ; and in 1820 the
MindeUf 74, built entirely by Parsis,
was launched, and about the same time
the ComioalliSt 74, of 1767 tons. Subse-
quently the WelUsley, 74, of 1746 tons ;
tne Malabar^ 74 ; the SeringapcUam, and
many other ships of war were built ; in-
cluding the Ganges, 84 ; the CalcuUaf
86 ; and the Miani, of 86 guns. All
these vessels were made of teak, and
have sufficiently proved . the lasting
quality of that wood. It has been said
tnat a teak ship will last from four
to fives times as long as one of English
oak. The old Loujji Castle, a merchant-
man of about 1000 tons, is known to
have made voyages for nearly three-
quarters of a century. Although the
dockyard has been of late years much
enlarged and furnished with the best
and newest machinery, no large ships
are built here. The enclosure contains
about 200 acres. There are 5 graving
docks, 3 of which together make one
large dock ; the Bombay Dock, 648 ft.
long, 57 ft. broad at top, and 34 ft. at
bottom, and with 12 ft perpendicular
depth; the other 2 graving docks
make a single dock, 550 ft. long, 68 ft.
broad at top, and 46 ft. at bottom, and
with 26 ft. perpendicular depth. There
are also 4 building-slips opposite the
Apollo Pier, and on the S.E. side of
the enclosure. Bombay is the only
important place near the open sea in
India where the rise of the tide is suffi-
cient to permit docks on a large scale.
At Bombay the highest spring tides
reach to 17 ft. ; but the usual height
is 14 ft. The dockyard is lighted by
electricity, so that work can be carried
on by night if necessary.
The Duncan Graving Dock, origin-
ally constructed in 1807, can be divided
into two by means of a steel floating
caisson ; its teital length is 630 feet and
depth 26 feet at spring tides. The
Govemment W«t Basin, constructed
in 1891-3, has an area of 4^ acres, and
was designed for the use of Government
ships ; its depth is 25 feet at spring tides.
The Bassoon Dock at Colaba is a
wet dock for the discharge of caigo
which has been purchased by Govcto-
ment. The Bomoay, Baroda, and C. I.
Railway runs to the S. of the dock,
and a siding is carried under the very
warehouses, so that in the monsoon
the goods are not wetted. The Bom-
bay, Baroda, and C. I. Rly. jons
the G. I. P. at Dadar, so that, practi-
cally, both railways join the doclo.
The Sassoon Dock, the first wet dock
made in India, is 650 ft. long, with la
average breadth of 250 ft. The depfli
is 19 ft. at high water at neap tidee^
and 22 ft. at spring tides. In one of
the warehouses at the W. end are 6
hydraulic cotton presses, which exert
a pressure of 800 tons on each bale.
They can press from 125 to 150 bcdes
a (iay. A bale weighs more than
deal but less than teak of the same
dimensions.
Prince's Dock was commenced dar-
ing the Prince of Wales's visit in 1875-
76. In excavating it the remains of
a submerged forest were found at a
depth of about 10 ft. About 100 trees
from 10 to 20 ft. long were exhumed ;
the wood is red and very hard. The
dock extends over 30 acres, and
is capable of containing 30 ocean
steamers. On the N.W. of this dock
is the Merewethar (Government)
Dock. Adjacent to the docks is a
whole street of warehouses and offices.
The Victoria Dock, S. of the Prince's
Dock and connected with it, occupies the
space formerly taken up by the Musjid
and Nicol basins. It covers 25 acres, and
has an entrance 80 feet in width.
Both these docks are excavated on
the estate known as the Elphinstone
Reclamation, which has taken in from
the sea 276 acres, and has raised and
improved 110 acres. The Mody Bay
Reclamation is S. of the Elphinstone
estate. These two groups of work
have transformed the eastern foreshore
of the island from- a mud swamp to a
busy mercantile quarter worthy of the
capital of Western India.
Several hours might be spent in visit-
ing these vast reclamation works on
the E. shore of Bombay Island, ^m
the Custom House to Sewri on the N.
On these works and on those at Colaba
Digitized by VjOOQIC
LIGHTHOUSES — CHURCHES
ind Back Bay £5,000,000 sterling have
been exp»ide<L
The Dockyard of the P. ft 0. Com-
Mny is in the suburb of Mazagon.
The office is situated in the Mazagon
Dock Road, in a garden with a profusion
of flowering shrubs. The works were
Inished in 1866. The dockyard covers
12 acres, and there are iron sheds for
18,000 tons of coal. The dock is 420
ft. long, and capable of receiving
tcskIs of deep draught On its left,
looking towards the pier, is the Ice
Maao^tory.
Lighthouses.
Ihe Kennery Lighthouse, which is
12 m. to the S. of Bombay, has a
fiad first-class cata-dioptric light in a
twer 161 ft. above high-water mark.
ft cost about 2 lakhs. There are 2
32-pounders on the island for signalling.
The foundation-stone was laid by Sir
fiartle Frere in 1867, and the light was
first shown the following year.
A ridge or causeway, which com-
mences a little S. of the Colaba Ceme-
tery, and is 3600 ft. long, leads to the
^ew or Prong Ughthoaae, from the
Old Lighthouse, extinguished 1874.
This ridge is diy at low water for 4
Uja before and 4 days after full moon.
JTear the Old Lighthouse and at Colaba
Point are two modern batteries, and N.
flf it are the lines of the artillery and the
Wadquarters wing of a European regi-
ment. The Prong Lighthouse is 150
i high, with walls 17 ft. thick at the
«west story, and cost £60,000. The
I Solving gear has to be wound up every
5 minutes, which employs 2 men. In
tonus the waves rise 50 ft. up the sides,
tid the tower vibrates. Before this
3ghthouse was built dreadful ship-
necks took place here, and many of
tie bodies of tnose drowned are interred
91 C<^ba Cemetery. It is interesting
to watch the light from the shore of
lack Bay as it flashes into full snlen-
ioor and l^en in a few seconds tades
ato darkness. The light can be seen
^ the distance of 18 m., and beyond
%& Hothouse the shoal water extends
Ir a nile. It flashes every 10 seci:)nds.
Another lighthouse takes the place
«f "die eld Inner Light vessel
Churohes.
The Cathedral of St. Thomas stands
in the Fort, close to Elphinstone Circle.
It was built as a garrison church in
1718, and made a cathedral on the
establishment of the See of Bombay
in 1888, on which occasion the low
belfry was converted into a high tower.
It is simple in plan, and a mixture of
the classical and Grothic in style. The
chancel, added 1865, is a satisfactory
specimen of modem Early English.
There are some monuments here which
deserve attention, — one by Bacon to
Jonathan Duncan, Governor for sixteen
years. It represents him receiving the
blessings of young Hindus. This had
reference to his successful efforts in
suppressing infanticide in certain dis-
tricts near Benares, and afterwards in
Kattywar, through the zealous and
able agency of Colonel Walker.
Amongst other monuments to be
noticed are that to Cap. G. N. Hardinge,
R.N., who died in 1808, in a brilliant
engagement when he took the frigate
La JHedmontiare ; that to Col. Burr,
who commanded at the battle of Eirkee ;
and a third to Major Pottinger, who dis-
tinguished himself in the defence of
Hirat The fountain in front of the
Cathedral was erected by Sir Cowasjee
Jehangir Readymoney, at a cost of
7000 rs.
The Afghan Memorial Church of St.
John the Eyangelist at Colaba, conse-
crated in 1858, consists of nave and
aisles 138 ft. long, with a chancel 50 ft.
long, and a tower and spire 198 ft. high,
conspicuous for some distance at sea. As
in the great church of Antioch in early
ages, and in St. Peter's at Rome, the
altar is at the W. end. The efiect on
entering is good, owing to the length
and height of the building, the simpli-
city of tne architecture, and the **dim
religious light" diffused through the
stained-glass windows. The roof is
of teak. The first object remarked on
entering is the illuminated metal screen,
light and elegantly designed, and sur-
mounted by a gilt cross. S. of the main
entrance is the Baptistery, with a
large font and triplet window erected
by the congregation m memory of the
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10
BOMBAY AND BNTIBONS
India
Rev. Philip Anderson, author of The
English in Western India, About ith
of the cost of the spire was contributed
by Mr. Cowasjee Jehangir in 1864, a
striking instance of Parsi liberality
and of the good feeling between Parsis
and Europeans.
At the W. end of the N. aisle is a
triplet window, erected to the memory
of Greneral David Barr.
The arch of the chancel is 65 ft. high.
The pulpit was given by a member of
the congregation, the desk by the
officers of H.M.'s 28th Regt. on leaving
the country in 1864, in memory of
seven brother officers.
The brass altar candlesticks were
made in the School of Art at Bombay.
Behind the lectern is the Litany stool,
inscribed, "A Thank Offering from the
R. W. Fusiliers, 1869 a.d.*' The choir
desks are supported by wrought-iron
stands, illuminated, and made in the
School of Art The " memorial mar-
bles," are of alternate colours of white,
red, yellow, and blue ; and beneath
them there runs the following inscrip-
tion, painted on a blue ground : —
This Church was built in Memory ol the
Officers whose names are written above, and
of the Non-Commissioned Officers and Priirate
Soldiers, too many to be so recorded, who fell,
mindftd of their duty, by sickness or by the
sword, in the Campaigns of Bind and Afghan-
istan, A.D. 1838-1843.
All Saints', the Ridge, Malabar Hill.
Christ Church, Byculla, was conse-
crated by Bishop Wilson in 1835. It
holds 500 people. There are here several
monuments and tombs of interest and
some monumental brasses.
St. Peter's Church, Mazagonj has a
memorial window to the officers and
men drowned in the S.S. Camatic,
St Nicholas Church, at the docks, is
for the use of seamen.
St. Andrew's Kirk, in Marine Street,
was built in 1818. In 1826 the steeple
was thrown down by lightning, and
rebuilt by John Caldecott.
The new Free Church stands in
Wandby Road, near the Esplanade.
The Bomau Catholic Church, in
Medow Street, dates from the begin-
ning of last century. There is a bread-
fruit tree in the inner quadrangle.
Missions.
The S.P.G., with Church in Kamati-
pura Road, has 4 missionary clergr in
the town, and a branch of tne Ladies'
Association working in the zenanas.
The CM. 8. (estabd. in Bombay since
1820), has a Church and large Sdmls
for boys and girls at Girgaon.
The Mission Priests of St. John the
Evangelist (Cowley Fathers) serve flie
Ch. of St. Peter's, Mazagon, and h»?e
a Mission House and Schools for bof s
and ^rls near it : also a native Mission
and Orphanage in Babula Tank Roai
The ^*A11 Saints'" Sisters (from Mar-
garet St.) have been working in Bombay
since 1878, and nurse the following
Hospitals: European General, Jam-
shidRi, Pestoigi Kama. They have 2
High Schools for Girls, with Boarding
Schools: one in Elphinstone Circle
called the Cathedral Girls' School, the
other near St Peter's, Mazagon. Also
St. John's Orphanage for natives
(mostly foundlings) at Umer Khadi.
The American Presbyterian Board oj
Foreign Missions or Maratha Mission
has a considerable staff. The Uniied
Free Church of Scotland has a strong
body of missionaries connected with the
Wilson Mission College (p. 13) affiliated
to the University.
Cemeteries.
The European Cemetery, at Parell,
formerly a Biotanical Garden, opened in
1830, is a sheltered spot under Flacstafl
Hill, with trees on either side, and wai
turned into a cemetery about 1867.
The Colaba Cemetery, beyond th€
church, at the extreme point of th<
promontory, is tolerably well kept, bul
IS no longer used.
The Girgaon Cemeteries facing Bacli
Bay. He most northerly is the old
European cemetery, where was buried
the celebrated French naturalist apt]
traveller Jacquemont. His remaini
were eventually removed to Fiance.
Neither this nor the adjacent Moham
medui buijing'ground are now in use
To the 8. is the ground for Eindt
Cremations, Europeans who desire ar«
allowed to enter. To the S.E. is th*
Scotch Cemetery, now closed.
The five Towers of Bilenoe stand upoi
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TOWERS OF SILBNCS
11
tHe highest point of Malabar Hill, 100
ft above the sea. In order to see them
pennission most be obtained from the
secretary to the Parsi Panchayat. Sir
Jamshiif ji Jijibhai, at his own expense,
made the road which leads to the
Towers on the N. side, and gaye
100,000 sq. yds. of land on the N. and
E. sides of the Towers. They are best
approached by Gibbs Boad.
Within the gateway of an outer
eBclosnre a flight of 80 steps mounts
up to a gateway in an inner wall.
Kom this point the visitor is accom-
l^ied by an official of the Panchayat,
aid turning to the rt. comes to a
4Dne building, where, during funerals,
jraycr is offered. From this point one
if the finest views of Bombay may be
ibtained. To the 1. are Sion, Sewri,
ind Mazagou Hills, and between them
some 20 lofty chimneys of cotton mills
and other high buildings. Below, at
the foot of tne hiU, stretches a vast
grove of palms, in which no human
habitation is visible, though many are
concealed by the broad palm leaves. On
the rt. are seen in succession the new
Municipal Buildings, Victoria Sta., Ca-
thedral, Grovernment Offices, Memorial
Church at Colaba, and the Prong Light-
bouse. Probably while the traveller is
looking at the view, a funeral will take
place. A bier will be seen carried up
the steps by 4 Nasr Salars, or " Carriei-s
of the Dead," with 2 bearded men
following them closely, and perhaps
100 Parsis in white robes walking 2 and
2 in procession. The bearded men who
come next the corpse are the only
persons who enter the Tower. They
wear g^loves, and when they touch the
bones it is with tongs. On leaving the
Tower, after depositing the corpse on
the grating within, they proceed to
the puntying place, where they wash
and leave the clothes they have worn
in a tower built for that exijress pur-
jKiee. The Parsis who walk in proces-
BOO atter the bier have their clothes
lintol, in which there is a mystic
naaning. There is a model of one of
tba Towers which was exhibited to the
Prince of Wales, and is produced to
TintoTS. The towers are 5 in num-
tey cylindrical in shape, and white-
washed. The largest cost £80,000,
while the other 4 on an average
cost £20,000 each. The largest tower
is 276 ft. round and 25 ft. high. At
8 ft from the ground is an aperture
in the encircling wall about 5} ft. sq.,
to which the carriers of the dead ascend
by a flight of steps. Inside, the plan
of the building resembles a circular
gridiron, gradually depressed towards
the centre, in which is a well 5 ft in
diameter. Besides the circular wall
which incloses this well there are 2
other circular walls between it and the
outside, with footpaths running upon
them ; the spaces between them are
divided into compartments by radiating
walls from an ima^nary centre. The
bodies of adult males are laid in the
outer series of compartments thus
formed, the women in tne middle series,
and the children in that nearest the
well. They are placed in these grooves
Quite naked, and in half an hour the
flesh is so completely devoured by the
numerous vultures that inhabit the
trees around, that nothing but the
skeleton remains. This is left to bleach
in sun and wind till it becomes per-
fectly dry. Then the carriers of the
dead, gloved and with tongs, remove
the bones from the grooves and cast
them into the well. Here they crumble
into dust. Round the well are perfora-
tions which allow the rain-water or
other moisture to escape into 4 deep
drains at the bottom of the Tower, ana
the fluid then passes through charcoal
and becomes disinfected and inodorous
before it passes into the sea. There is
a ladder in the weU by which the
carriers of the dead descend if it be
requisite to remove obstructions from
the perforations. The dust in the well
accumulates so slowly that in 40 years
it rose only 5 ft. This method of inter-
ment originates from the veneration
the Parsis nay to the elements, and their
zealous enaeavours not to pollute these.
Parsis re6i)ect the dead, out consider
oorpses most unclean, and the carriers
are a separate and peculiar class who
are not allowed to mix in social inter-
course with other Parsis. Tet even
these men wear gloves and use tonge
in touching the remains of a deceased
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12
BOMBAT AND ENVIRONS
India
person, and purify themselves and cast
away their garments after every visit
to a tower. Fire is too much venerated
by Parsis for them to allow it to be
polluted by burning the dead. Water
is almost equally respected, and so is
earth ; hence this smgular mode of
interment has been devised. There
is, however, another reason. Zartasht
said that rich and poor must meet
in death ; and this saying has been
literally interpreted and carried out
by the contrivance of the well, which
is a common receptacle for the dust
of all Parsis, of Sir Jamshid\ji and
other millionaires and of the poor
inmates of the Parsi Asylum. In
the arrangements of the vast area
which surrounds the Towers nothing
has been omitted which could foster
calm and pleasing meditation. You at
once arrive at the house of prayer, and
around is a beautiful warden full of
flowers and flowering 3irubs. Here
under the shade of fine trees relatives
of the deceased can sit and meditate.
The height of the hill and the proximity
of the sea ensure always a cool breeze ;
and the view to the W. and S. over
the waters, and to the E. and K*. over
the city, the islands in the harbour
and the distant mountains beyond, is
enchanting. The massive gray towers
and the ^ick woods about tnem are
very picturesque. Even the cypresses,
as the Parsis themselves say, tapering
upwards, point the way to heaven ; and
it is certain that the Parsis follow out
that thought and are firm believers in
the resuiTection and the re-assemblage
of the atoms, here dispersed, in a
glorified and incorruptible body.
Educational Institutions.
Elphinstone College, removed from
Byculla in 1890, now occupies a large
building close to the Mechanics* In-
stitute, from which it is separated by a
narrow street. This building is called
after Sir Cowasjee Jehaneir Ready-
money, in recognition of nis having
given a couple of lakhs for the pur-
pose of building the original institu-
tion. The Elphinstone Institution
was founded as a memorial to the
Hon. Mountstuart Elphinstone, the
Governor of Bombay. In 1866 it was
divided into a High School (see below)
and this College for the higher educa-
tion of natives, who contributed up-
wards of 2 lakhs to endow professorships
in English, and the Arts, Sciences, and
Literature of Europe. The sum accumu-
lated to about 4 lakhs and a half, and
Government augments the interest by
an annual subscription of 22,000 rs.
There are 16 senior scholarships, and
29 junioi' are competed for annually.
A certain number of undergraduates
who cannot pay the College fee are ad-
mitted free. In 1862 Sir Alexander
Grant, Bart., was Principal of the Col-
lege, and some distinguished scholars
have filled Professorships, as, for in-
stance, Mirza Hairat, who translated
Malcolm's J7wtoryo^P(er«Mi into Persian.
The building is in the mediseval style,
and contains lecture-rooms, library (in
which is a portrait of Elphinstone by
Lawrence), a room for the Principal,
with one for the Professors, and donni-
tories above for the resident students.
The W. wing is the Record Office.
The New Elphinstone High School
is in Esplanade Cross Road, in front of
the W. face of St. Xavier's College.
Sir Albert Sassoon contributed £1500
towards the cost of the building. It
is the great public school of Bombay,
and reteined possession of the original
buildings on the Esplanade when the
College Department was separated to
form the Elphinstone College.
" The object of this school is to fur-
nish a high-class and liberal education
up to the standard of the University
entrance examination, at fees within
the reach of the middle-class people of
Bombay and the Mufassil. it has
classes for the study of English, Mar-
athi, Guzerati, Sanscrit, Latin, and
Persian." There are 28 class-rooms,
a hall on the first floor measuring
62 X 35 ft., and a Library. The build-
ing was designed by G. T. Molecey.
St Xayier's College, near the W.
end of the Esplanade Boad. This
Jesuit institution, which serves the
purpose of school as well as college,
grew out of the development of St
Mary's Insritutipn and the European
R. C. Orphanage. The site for the
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EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS — HOSPITALS, ETC.
13
CoUmw was granted by Government in
1867.
The Wilson College'(named after Rey.
Dr. J. Wilson, F.R.S.', Oriental scholar
ind Scottish missionary), for the
education of young men, is a fine
boildiog near Chami Road Station.
It eost a lakh and a half of rupees, and
is the largest college for natives in
Western India.
The Alexandra College for Farsi
Ladies, in Kausji Patel Street in the
Fort, was founded by the late Mr.
Minikji Ehurshidji, who was amongst
the first of the Parsi gentlemen to
tnrel in Europe. It was opened in
193. The girls remain in some cases
to the age of 24, and are extremely
Mril instructed in history and geo-
fliphy and the English and Gujarati
Signages. They aJso embroider and
do needle-work exceedingly welL Per-
^Ds desirous of visiting the institution
eould no doubt obtain permission.
Two High Schools for Girls, with
Boarding Schools (kept by the All
Saints* Sisters : one in Elphinstone Cir-
cle, called the Cathedral Girls' School,
the other near St. Peter's, Mazagon.
The Uission High School at Ambroli,
together with the church, cost £5000,
and is being further extended. There
is adjacent a college for youths, where
Sanscrit and Persian are well taught.
The School of Art was first opened
for pupils in 1857. In 1877 a hand-
lome new building was erected on
the W. side of the Esplanade, near the
(lokaldas Hospital. Excellent draw-
ings and designs are made here, as well
IS good pottery, arms, artistic work in
silver and copper, and decorative carving
in wood ana stone. The buildings in
Western India owe much of their
beauty to the work of students of this
institution.
150 yds. off, in sheds set apart for
the purpose, are the Art Pottery Works,
where some beautiful designs purely
Indian in form and ornament have been
earned out
The Anjuman-i-Islam School is a
Hohammedan School in Hornby Row,
•pp. Victoria Terminus ; erected by the
«M)peration of Government, which gave
^e site, valued at 158,000 rs., with a
money-grant of 88,000 rs., while the
Mohammedans subscribed 10,000 rs. :
the building was opened by Lord Harris
in 1893. The erection of this school
marks an epoch in the history of the
Mohammeoan community. The build-
ing, which is of most pleasing appear-
ance, was designed by. Mr. J. Willcocks
of the Public Works Dept
Institutions— CHARITABLE and
OTHBEWISE.
The Royal Alfred Sailors' Home, a
very solid-looking building in a con-
spicuous position close to the Apollo
Bandar, nas accommodation for 20
officers, 58 seamen, and it is stated
that in case of emergency it could con-
tain 100 inmates. Officers have separ-
ate and superior quarters. Each man
pays 14 annas a day, for which he gets
breakfast, dinner, tea, with hot meat,
at 6 P.M., and supper, and the use of
the reading-room. The sculpture in the
front gable, representing Neptune with
nymphs and sea-horses, was executed
in Bath stone by Mr. Bolton of Chel-
tenham. His late Highness Khande
Rao Gaekwar gave 200,000 rs. towards
the cost of the building, to commemor-
ate the Buke of Edinburgh's visit, and
the foundation-stone was laid in 1870
by the Duke.
The European General Hospital,* is
at the entrance to Boree Bandar Road,
close to Victoria Rly. Sta. Should
the traveller fall ill in Bombay, he
cannot do better than go to this hos-
pital, where he will receive the best
medical treatment. Close beyond in
connection with this is the new St.
George's Hospital.
The Pestonji Kama Hospital * for
Women and Children^ a Gothic build-
ing in Cruikshank Road, is an institu-
tion worthy of attention.
Gokaldais Hospital, in Esplanade
Cross Road, can contain 126 patients,
and is generally full. The history of
this hospital is rather curious. Mr.
Rustamji Jamshidji had offered to.give
£15,000 if Government would give a
site for a native hospital and contribute
£10,000 more, and if the municipality
would undertake to support the Institu-
* Nursed by the " AU Saints'" Sisters.
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16
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
Circle, facing the Town Hall, are statues
of Lord OomwalliSj under a cupola, and
of Lord WeUesley, by Bacon, much
injured by the effects of the weather.
On the ed^e of the Maidan and close
to the Pubbc Works* Secretariat are
statues of Sir Richard Temple and
Lord Reay.
The Mnseum, on the Parell Road, a
handsome building, stands about 100
yds. back from the road. Until 1857
the collection, which is not an import-
ant one, was kept in the Fort Barracks,
but on Sir G. Bird wood being appointed
curator by Lord Elphinstone, ne raised
a subscription of a lakh for building
this Museum. Sir B. Frere laid the
first stone in 1862, and Gk>yemment
completed the building in 1871. The
Clock Tower in front of it was erected
by Sir Albert Sassoon. There is a fine
statue of Prince Albert here by Noble.
The Victoria Gardens, in which the
Museum stands, have an area of 34
acres, and are prettily laid out The
beautiful Bougainvillea is very con-
spicuous. Within the grounds are a
Menagerie and Deer Park. The band
plays nere twice a week, and it is a ^eat
resort for the citizens. The municipal-
ity keep up the gardens at a cost of
10,000 rs. yearly.
Markets.
The best time for visiting the Markets
is early in the morning, about 7 o'clock,
when they are thronged with all sorts
and conditions of men and women i^
the brightest and most picturesque cos-
tumes.
The Crawford Market stands in
Market Road, which is approached from
Hornby Row, and is about IJ m. N. of
Watson's HoteL This market was
founded by Mr. Arthur Crawford, C.S.,
Municipal Commissioner from 1865
to 1871. (This able officer got the
Slaughter Houses, which at the com-
mencement of his term of office were
near the market, removed to Bandora
in Salsette. ) The market consists of a
Central Hall, in which is a drinking-
fountain given by Sir Cowasjee Jehangir
R«adymoney, surmounted bv a Clock
Tower, 128 ft. high. To the right is
a wing, 150 ft, by 100 ft, in which are
fruit and flowers, and on the lefk is
another wing, 350 ft. by 100 fL, for
spices and vegetables. The whole is
covered with a double iron roof. The
^ound is paved with flag-stones fimn
Caithness. '*In that oollection of
handsome and spacious halls . . . fiih,
flesh, vegetables, flowers, fruit, and
general commodities are vended in
separate buildings all kept in adnnr-
able order and cleanliness, and all opt-
ing upon green and shady ^ardem"
(Mwin Arnold). The stalls in whiih
the leaves of the Piper betel are s<M
should be noticed. These leaves aie
called pan, and the betel-nut is called
supari. The leaves are spread with
lime, and the fruit of the Areca palm
is wrapped in them. These leaves are
chewed by the natives, and make the
lips and the saliva red and the teeth
black. There are many kinds of plan-
tains or bananas, but the best are snort,
thick, and yellow. The best oranges
are those from Nagpur, and the best
grapes are from Aurangabad. The black
grape, called Hahshi (the Abyssinian), is
the most delicious, and the best white
grape is the Sahibi. The mangoes come
m in May, and are amongst the finest
fruit in the world : two or three iced
form a delicious adjunct for breakfiist.
The best are grown about Mazagon ;
the kind most esteemed is called the
" Alphonse " ; large numbers of an in-
ferior quality come from Goa. The
Pummelow, the (Htru>s decumanBt, is
particularly fine in Bombay, very cool-
ing and wholesome, but somewhat
astringent. The Bombay onions are
famous. The Beef Market is built of
iron. The paving-stones were brought
from Yorkshire. The Fish Marketis
at the end of the Mutton Market. The
turtles come from Karachi in Sind.
The oysters are of moderate size and
well flavoured. The Palla fish, gener-
ally about 2 ft. long, the salmon of
India, is excellent. Its flesh is light
coloured, and has many troublesome
bones. The best fish of all is the pom-
flet, or pomfret, called SargtUali, the
black kind being called ffalwa. This
is a flat fish, about the size of a luge
flounder. The best are caught at Vera-
wal ; they are very cheap and whole-
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INDUSTRIAL ARTS AND MANUFACTURES, ETC.
17
some. The Surma, with projecting
knobs, are not equal to the English
flounder. The Bhm Machchhi, or
muflet, are fairly good. The guard-
fish, DatoA, long and very thin, are
excellent, but the flesh has a greenish
colour. The BmJbil, called by the
English Bommelo and Bombay duck,
is 1 glutinous fish, very nice when
fr^, and much used when salted and
dried. Near the fountain, with its
beaatiful shrubs, are seats for loungers.
Thire is also a Coffee House, where
serrants congregate, and which clears
12J0 rs. a year. On the S. side is the
/*«% Market, where fowls, ducks
t«keys, snipe, curlew, teal, and occa-
sitaUy ilorican may be purchased
jjbn in season,— the last excellent.
m market cost over 1,100,000 rs.
ae crowd in the Meat and Fish Mar-
ets early in the morning Is dense and
oe hubbub deafening.
The Cotton Market is held near the
^mway terminus at Colaba. It is a
aglit worth seeing. 4, 000,000 cwts. are
ainually exported, and half that amount
isniadeuse of in the Bombay spinning-
mills, which number nearly a hundred.
TheNnl Market, between Parell and
wan Road, supplies a large part of
Bombay, and is generally immensely
ffowded. Men and women may be seen
pirehasing opium, and the women ad-
mt that they give it to their infants.
The Pedder Markets at Mazagon are
fi the middle of a garden.
Indtjstbial Arts and Manu-
factitres.
In Bombay there are nearly 3000
jwellers of the different Indian nation-
«ties of the Presidency who find con-
tentand lucrative employmen t. One of
«e most active industries is the manu-
*ctQre of brass and copper pots and
«ner utensils. " The Copper Bazaar,
Jppsite the Mombadevi Tank, is the
wsiest and noisiest, and one of the
»08t delightful streets. " i The black-
•t^od carving of Bombay is famous,
m sandal-wood and other carving is
My carried on here, also inlay
JjSirQ. Birdwood'8 Industrial Arts of India,
^ch see for farther particulars.
[India
work ; indeed the term " Bombay
Boxes" includes sandal-wood carving
as well as inlay work. Tortoise-shell
carving is a specialiU, also lacquered
turnery. Gold and silver thread is
manufactured and used for lace, and
Bombay embroidery is much prized.
The Bombay School of Pottery (see
above) we owe to the exertions of Mr.
Geo. Terry, who has developed two
original varieties of glazed potteiy there.
Cotton. — The development of cotton-
spinning during the last 80 years is
remarkable. In 1870 there were 10
mills in the Island of Bombay, em-
ploying some 8000 hands ; there are
now 101 employing more than 110,000
hands.
The traveller who is at all fond of
the picturesque is strongly recom-
mended not to leave Bombay without
visiting the Native Quarter. The
streets and bazaars are narrow and
tortuous, but clean and bright in the
extreme. Some of the houses are
remarkably fine as works of art, and
display undoubted Portuguese influ-
ence. Their fronts are covered with
carving, and in some cases they have
projecting stories supported upon ela-
Dorately sculptured corbels. Here and
there are mosques and Hindu temples
gaudily painted. The streets teem with
life. Sir Edwin Arnold writes of them :
" A tide of Asiatic humanity ebbs and
flows up and down the Bhendi bazaar,
and through the chief mercantile
thoroughfares. Nowhere could be seen
a play of livelier hues, a busier and
brighter city life. Besides the endless
crowds of Hindu, Guzerati, and Maratha
people coming and going — some in gay
dresses, but most with next to none
at all — between rows of grotesquely
painted houses and temples, there are
to be studied here specimens of every
race and nation of the East: Arabs
from Muscat, Persians from the Gulf,
Afghans from the northern frontier,
black, shaggy Beluchis, negroes of
Zanzibar, islanders from the Maldives
and Laccadives, Malagashes, Malays,
and Chinese throng and jostle with
Partis in their sloping hats, with
Jews, Lascars, fishermen, Rajpoots,
Fakirs, Europeans, Sepoys and Sahibs,'
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18
fiOHBAT AND BNVIROKd
tndir
Iq the Bliendi Bazaar are the Arab
Stables, weU worth a visit in the early
morning, not only for the sake of seeing
some of the finest horses in the East,
but to see the Arabs themselves who
bring them to Bombay for sale.
For the most part the Hindu Temples
in Bombay are quite modem ; bat at
the same time they are picturesque and
particularly striking to a stranger who
nas not been in Bombay before. Of
these the most important is
The temple of Walkeshwar " Sand
Lord," on tne W. side of Malabar Hill,
close to Malabar Point. Throngs of
Hindus will be met coming from it,
their foreheads newly coloured with
the sectarial mark. The legend says
that Rama, on his way from Ayodhya
(Oudh) to Lanka (Ceylon), to recover
his bride Sita, carried off by Havana,
halted here for the night Lakshman
provided his brother £iima with a new
Lingam direct from Benares every
night. This night he failed to arrive
at the expected time, and the im-
EEitient Rama made for himself a
ingam of the sand at the spot When
the one from Benares arrived it was
set up in the temple, while the one
which Rama had made, in after ages, .
on the arrival of the Portuguese, sprang
into the sea from horror of the bar-
barians. There is a small but veiy
Sicturesque tank here, adorned with
ights of steps, and surrounded by
Brahmans' houses and shrines. This
spot well deserves a visit ; a traveller
will nowhere in India see a more Epical
specimen of the better class of Hindu
town architecture. It, too, is not with-
out its legend. Rama thirsted, and
there being no water here, he shot an
arrow into the earth, and forthwith
appeared the tank, hence called Vana-
tirtha, « Arrow-Tank."
A Temple of less importance is the
Dwarkaaath'B Temple, close to the
Esplanade, on the right-hand side of
the road that leads to Parell, and a little
N. of the Framji Eausji Institute,
which is on the opposite side* of the
road.
Entering bv a side door on the N.,
the visitor finds himself in a room
40 ft sq. with a silver door at the end
7 ft. high, which hides from view thc^
principal idol. There are many iinages-
and paintings of Krishna and Radha,
his favourite mistress.
There is a group of MahaZuksfmee
Temples at Breach Candy, and others
in the native quarter around the tai^s
of Mombadevi and Oowalia.
Shooting. — Tigers and panthers ire
rather numerous in the Konkan, and
may be found occasionally in Salsette.
At the hill -fort of Tungarh, about
20 m. from Bombay, tigers are occasion-
ally to be found, but it is difficult to get
accommodation there, as there are omy
one or two huts, and horses picketed
outside are likely to be killed during
the night. Newcomers should en-
deavour to go with some experienced
sportsman, by whom all the arrange-
ments should be made. Snipe are
numerous on the E. side of Bombay
Harbour in Panwell Creek and other
places. At the Yehar Lake and Tanna
and close to Narel wild duck, snipe,
hares, and partridges are to be found.
At places in Guzerat some of the finest
Juail, snipe, and duck -shooting in
ndia is to be obtained.
Bailwaye, Tra/nvwayst and Steatners,
— The terminal stations of the tnm-
ways and of the Bombay, Baroda, and
Central India Railway are at Colaha,
i m. S. of Watson's Hotel, but there
is a station much closer, and nearly due
W. of Watson's Hotel, called Church-
gate Station, whence passengers can start
for any places reached by the B. B. and
C. I. Ime. Those who are living in the
northern suburbs will go of course
from the Bycidla Station, or from the
Gfrant Road Station, according to their
destination.
Sights in thb Vicinity of Bombay.
1. Blephanta. 6. Jogeshwmr GkTe.
2. Venar Lake. 7. Matheran.
3. Montpezir Caves. 8. The Tknaa Wttef
4. C^ve Temples of Supply.
Kanhari. 9. Karli.
5. Saparn.
10. Oeraoppa FUli.
(1) Elephanta is a small island aboia
6 m. from the Fort of Bombay. Fol
visiting this remarkable place
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r. m
steaa
y Google
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IXOUBfllON TO ELSPHANTA
19
latmches^ can be hired at Apollo Bandar,
and make the passage in about 1 or 1^
ks., or a bandar-boat may be hired at
torn 3 to 5 rs. In this case the length
of the passage will depend on wind and
tide. Or, if living near Mazagon, the
traveller may hire a boat or engage a
steam launch from the pier there. The
boat will pass close to Batcher's Island,
vhich is 3 m. nearly due E. from Maza-
gon Dock. Persons coming from sea
vith infectious diseases, such as small-
pox, are placed in quarantine at this
islaid. The view in this part of the
hailour ia beautiful. To the N. is the
iiiB known as the Neafs Tongue, on
TrBibav island, which is 1000 ft above
serieyel. The ruins of an old Portu-
g«e chapel at Trubah in Trombay are
at a hei^t of 324 ft. The highest
mt of Elephanta is 668 ft. There
K another hill 400 ft. high to the left
rfthe Caves as you approach theuL
Elephanta is called by the natives
Oharapuri ("the town of the rock,"
or "of purification," according to Dr.
Wilaon) — according to Dr. J. Stevenson,
Oarapurij **the town of excavations."
The caves are called Lenen (Lena) by
the natives, a word used throughout
India and Ceylon for these excavations,
»ost probably on account of the first of
fiiem being intended for hermitages of
Jaddhist ascetics. The island is covered
*ith low corinda bushes and Tal palms.
I consists of two long hills, with a
terrow valley between them. About
SO yards to the right of the old landing-
)iace, at the S. end of the island on the
liae of one of the hills, and not far from
fee ruins of a Portuguese building, was
imass of rock, out into the shape of an
ilephant, from which the place derives
^Eoiopean name. In September 1814
; te head and neck dropped off, and in
: ^64 the then shapeless mass was re-
moved to Bombay, and may now be
*en in the Victoria Gardens.
The modem landing-place N.W. of
4e ishmd is not a very convenient one.
1 1 consists of a rather slippery pier of
«ncrete blocks. The caves are distant
'Consult Messrs. T. Ck)ok & Son. Their
^m laonch makes the excursion several
Vnes a week, and makes other excursions in
tleharboor.
about i m., and are approached by easy
steps, constructed in 1853 by a native
merchant at a cost of 12,000 rs.
There is a bungalow at the entrance,
where a fee of 4 annas is paid.
The time when these caves were ex-
cavated can only yet be jessed at, but
it is generally supposea that it must
have been some tmie between the 9th
and 11th cents. a.d. The disintegra-
tion of the rock, since the caves were
first described by Niebuhr, and even
during the last 30 years, has been very
considerable.
The entrance into the temple is be-
tween two massive pillars, formmg three
openings, hewn out of trap rock, over-
hung by brushwood and wild shrubs.
The whole excavation consists of three
principal parts : the great temple itself,
which is m the centre, open on three
sides, and two smaller chapels, standing
back one on each side of the great
temple, but not perceived on approach-
ing it. They are now reachea by two
narrow miniature passes in the hill,
one on each side of the grand entrance,
at short distances from it. The side
fronts are exactly like the principal
one : all beina; hollowed out of the solid
rock, and each fa9ade supported by two
hu^e pillars with two pilasters, one on
each side. The two wings of the temple
have no covered passage to coimect
them with it.
The left side of the creat cave is 133
ft. in length, while me right side is
only 128 ft. 4 in., measuring from the
chief entrance to the fai^hest end.
Irregularities of this kind are to be
found in every other part, although the
general appearance is that of perfect
regularity. The breadth is fully 130
ft. from the eastern to the western
entrance. It rests on 26 pillars (8 of
them now broken) and 16 pilasters;
neither the floor nor the roof being in
one plane, it varies in height from 17i
to 16 ft. The plan is regular, there
being seven pillars and a pilaster in a
line from the N. entrance to the S. ex-
treme of the temple, and six together
with the shrine from the E. to the W.
entrances. The only deviation from
this regularity in the chief temple is the
small square excavation that is seen to
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20
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
the rt. on going up the temple ; it
oooupies the place of four pillars and
of the intermediate space enclosed be-
tween them. This is the LiTigam Shrine.
It is 19^ ft. square, with four doors
facing different ways. Around this
shrine on the outside are two large
figures at each entrance, representing
doorkeepers, who lean on demon-dwarfs.
The Lingam is a cylindrical stone 2 ft.
10 in. in diameter, the emblem of Shiva
and of reproduction, and is worshipped
on great occasions by crowds of devotees.
At the back of the cave there are two
small excavations facing each other, the
one on the right, the other on the left ;
their use is not well ascertained ; they
were probably employed for keeping
the temple utensils and offerings. The
pillars, which all appear to run in
straight lines parallel to each other,
and at equal distances, are crossed by
other ranges running at right angles ;
they are strong and massive, of an
order remarkably well adapted to their
situation and the purpose which they
serve. '
The Great Cave at Elephanta is what
the Hindus call a Shiva Lingam Temple,
a class of sacred buildings very common
in India. The natives maintain that
this cave and all other excavations are
the works of the sons of Pandu, who
constructed them while wandering about
in banishment They consider that
these excavations are works far too
mighty for mortals to have constructed.
The Great Cave is visited by crowds of
Hindus, on the great festival of Shiva
in the latter half of Febniary.
Three-faced Bust, or Trimurti. — ^The
chief of the mural figures is the immense
three-faced bust, 19 ft. in height, at
the far end of the Great Cave, facing
the N. entrance. It is the representa-
tion of Shiva, who is the leading char-
acter in all the groups of the cave. The
front face is Shiva in the character of
Brahma, the creator; the E. face (spec-
tator's 1.) is Shiva in the character of
Rudra, the destroyer ; and the W. face
(spectator's rt.) is considered to be
Shiva in the character of Vishnu, the
Ereserver, holding a lotus flower in his
and.
The Arddhanariahwar, or half-male
haif-female Divinity in the first oom-
partment to the £. of the central figure
(spectator's 1.) represents Shiva, 16 ft.
9 m. high, in his character of Arddha-
nanshwar. The right half of the hgore
is intended to be that of a male, nd
the left that of a female, and thus to
represent Shiva as uniting the tro
sexes in his one person. The same
tradition is represented in a carving at
the caves at Badami. Such a n\aii-
festation of Shiva is described in the
Puranas. The bull on which two of
the hands of the figure lean, and vi
which he is suppos^ to ride, is called
Nandi, a constant attendant on Shift.
Brahma, on his lotus throne, supported
by five swans, and with his four fetces,
is exhibited on the right of the figure.
He has a portion of all these faces
visible. On the left, Vishnu is seen
riding on what is now a headless Gamda,
a fabulous creature, half man half eagle.
Above and in the background are found
a number of inferior gods and sa^ of
the Hindus. India, iXrd of the Firma-
ment, appears mounted on an elephant.
In the compartment to the W. of the
Trimurti are two gigantic figures of
Shiva and ParbaU, the former 16 ft.
high, the latter 12 ft. 4 in. Shiva haa
a high cap, on which the crescent and
other symbols are sculptured, and from
the top of it rises a cup or shell on which
is a three-headed figure representing the
Ganga proper, the Yamuna and Sarasi
wati, wnich three streams are fabled tb
unite at Prayag, or Allahabad, and form
the Ganges. According to a well-knowi^
Hindu legend, the Ganges flowed from
the head of Shiva. The cod is standing
and has four arms, of which the outei
left rests on a dwarf, who seems to bend
under the weight. In the dwarfs righl
hand is a cobra, in his left a ehimrii
from his neck hangs a necklace, thj
ornament of which is a tortoise. Oo
Shiva's right are several attendant^
and above them Brahma, sculpturet
much as in the compartment on tb
right of the TWrnwrii. Between Brahmi
and Shiva is Indra on his elephail
Airavata, which appears to be kneelin|
Marriaae of Shiva and Parbati is
sculptured group (greatly damaged) I
the end of the W. aisle. The podtio
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EXCURSION TO ELEPHANTA
2]
rf Parbati on the right of Shiva shows
that she is his bride ; for to stand on
the right of her husband, and to eat
rith him, are privileges vouchsafed to
1 Hindu wife only on her wedding-day.
h the comer, at the right of Parbati.
B Brahma, known by his four faces,
fitting and reading, as the priest of
ke ^ds, the sacred texts suited to
ftie marriage ceremony. Above, on
Shiw's left, is Vishnu. Among the at-
fe'ndants on the right of Parbati is one
bearing a water-pot for the ceremony.
Thisis probably Chandra the moon-god.
BeMid the bashful goddess is a male
tiguie, probably her father Himalaya,
who is pushing her forward.
Mrth of Skcmda the War-god^ is a
sculptured group at the E. end of the
y. aisle. Shiva and Parbati are seated
tether, with groups of male and
female inferior divinities showering
down flowers from above, the rock
being cut into various shapes to repre-
sent the clouds of Kailas, Shiva's
heaven. Behind Shiva and Parbati is
a female figure carrying a child on her
Mp, from which it has been supposed
that the sculpture represents the birth
i Skanda, the war-god, who figures so
prominently in Kaudasa's fine poem,
4e Kv/mara Smribhava (spiritedly trans-
lated by Griffiths). Dr. Stevenson
liought Ganesha or Ganpati, the
ifephant-headed god of wisdom was
perhaps intended here.
Savana attemjAing to remove Kailas.
-The visitor must now face completely
Rumd, and look to the N. instead of
4e S., and, advancing a few paces, he
iHl come in front of the sixth compart-
isent, which is to the right of the eastern
•trance. Here Havana, the demon
^of Lanka, or Ceylon, is attempting
to remove Kailas, the heavenly hill of
Siiva, to his own kingdom, in order
tkt he may have his tutelary deity
>lvays with him, for Ravana was
^'er a worshipper of Shiva. Havana
Itts 10 heads and 20 arms, and is with
|d8 back to the spectator. Shiva is seen
in Kailas, with Parbati on his right,
and votaries and Rishis in the back-
ground. The legend runs that Havana
shook Kailas so much that Parbati was
alarmed, whereupon Shiva pressed down
the hill with one of his toes on the head
of Havana, who remained immovable
for 10,000 years.
The figure of Bhairava, — The visitor
must now cross over to the opposite side,
passing the Lingam shrine, in order to
arrive at the correspondingcompartment
on the W. to that just described on the
E. This was formerly supposed to re-
present fhe sacrifice of Daksha, and is
twice depicted at Elora, and more than
once at the Amboli caves in Salsette.
Daksha, a son of Brahma, born from
the thumb of his right hand for the
Surpose of peopling the world, had 60
aughters, of wnom 27 are the nymphs
of the lunar asterisms. One of them,
named Sati or Durga, married Shiva,
and 17 were married to Kashyapa, and
were the mothers of all created beings.
Daksha began a sacrifice according to
the ancient Vaidik ritual, and as the
gods of the Vedas alone were invited,
Shiva and his wife were not asked to
attend. Sati went, nevertheless, un-
bidden, and being badly received, threw
herself into the tire, whereupon Shiva
made his appearance in his most terrific
form as Vira Bhadra^ which manifesta-
tion of the god here forms the principal
figure of the group. He dispersed the
gods and other attendants of the sacri-
fice, and seizing Daksha with one hand,
decapitated him with another, while in
a third he held a cup, into which spouted
the blood. The head was hacked to
pieces; but when Shiva's wrath was
appeased, he put the head of a ram on
Daksha's body, thus keeping him ever
in mind of the power of his decapi-
tator. The sculpture may or may not
have a special reference to Daksha.
It is doubtless intended to repre-
sent Shiva in one of his usual dreaaful
forms, viz., that of Bhairava, Mahakal,
or Kapalabhrit.
Natesha or Tandava. — Shiva is said
to perform a frantic dance at eventide,
attended by his gatva or retinue of
demons, stamping with mad energy,
when the dust he raises is put on their
heads by the other gods. Above is a
very perfect Ganesh with elephant head.
Natesha has eight arms, which are all
broken but one.
Shiva as am, Ascetic^he last group, is
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22
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
India
to the left of the grand entrance. Here
Shiva appears as a Yogi, and the figure
so mucn resembles Buddha that the
early describers of the cave, before
Erskine, thought! b to be that person-
age. The figure has the remains of two
arms, which appear to have rested in
his lap. It is seated on a lotus, the
stalk of which is supported by two
figures below.
The W, wing, opposite the Lingam
chapel firat described, and across a court
to the W., is a smaller excavation in
the face of the hill in which Ganesh is
seated at the 8. extremity with a com
pany of Shiva's attendants. The portico
of the shrine is ornamented with a good
deal of sculpture.
The E. wing is approached by a few
steps, flanked by sculptured lions, lead-
ing up to a small Lingam chapel, in
which are no figures.
Supplementary Eoccavations. — Round
the hill, a little to the S., are two other
excavations fronting the E. These are
also Lingam shrines, with JDwarpals
sculptured outside. On a hill opposite
to the Great Gave is a small cave, and
an excavation has been commenced but
without much progress having been
made. Since this some steps have been
unearthed supposed by some to be the
original ones leading to the sea.
Dr. Burgess's account of the caves,
which is the best, was published in
Bombay, 1871.
(2)1 Vehar Lake (drive 15 m.) from
Bombay, or better by G. L P. Rly.
to Bhandup, 17 m. Arrange with the
station-master at Bhandup oeforehand
to have a pony ready, and canter to
the lake in half an nour, turning to
the rt. at a signpost, marked 3 m. to
Pawe, a village belonging to a Parsi,
amidst 16,000 mango trees. From the
gateway or Darwazah of Pawe it is 2
m. to the lake ; the jungle is very thick
part of the way. The lake covers 1400
acres, and measures 2 x 1 J m. ; it was
made by Mr. Conybeare, C.E., by
damming up the Garpur river. It
cost £373,650 with the connectmg
pipes, and can supply 8,000,000 gal-
Ions of water a day. The embankment
1 Bxcuwiona 2, 8, 4 may aU be done in one
day.
is 30 ft. broad and 30 ft. above the
water. The water is 75 ft deep, of
which 50 ft. are available for the
supply of Bombay and 25 ft are kept
for settling. Fish are numerous, ptr-
ticularly singara or *' cat-fish." Tnere
are also many conger-eels, which grow
8 or 9 ft. long. There are many ted
on the lake, but it is very difficult to
get within shot, except in the very
early morning. Tigers are scarce now,
but many have been killed there. One^
shot by Mr. Robertson, O.S., had killed
16 persons.
The Tulsi Lake, which lies 2 m. to
the N., was formed in 1872, at a cost
of £40,000, and water is carried thence
to the top of Malabar Hill. 2 m. N.
are th^ Kanheri Caves.
(3) Montpesdr Caves (Mandapesh-
war),—h, B. and C. I. Railway to Bor-
ivll Station, 22J m., thence nde 1 m.
Write beforehand to the station-master
for a pony and coolie to carry tifiln-
basket. Good clean waiting-room at
Borivli. Leaving the station, proceed
N., turning at about 200 yds. to the 1.
At the caves is a ruined Portuguese
chm'ch, with a cross close by. IU)and
the N.E. corner of the church are
three caves hewn out of the rock, which,
judging from the pillars, may be of the
9th century. The cave on the E. is
57 ft 8 in. X 18i ft. There is no carv-
ing inside, but there are two pillars in
the fa9ade shaped somewhat like the
Ionic. Adjoining this cave to the W.
is a stone basin for water, of which
there is a good supply, said never to
fail, and this may be one reason why
the Portuguese built here. The next
cave is 27 ft. 3 in. x 14 ft 9 in. In
the W. wall is a group of figures very
much mutilated. The principal fig|ui-e
has four arms, and is said to be Bhim, ^
but is probably Shiva, with 25 Ganas.
In the comer of the outside wall is
half a door of the church, of teak, witlx
two saints carved on it The third or
W. cave is locked, but the key can be
obtained from the priest | m. oflT. I
was probably a vihara cave in whic]
10 or 12 hermits lived, but was converted
into a chapel in 1555 A.D. In the I^
part of the E. wall, upside down, is th
stone originally^ over j the entrano
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CAVE TEMPLES OF KANHARI
23
door, inscribed with the date 1555.
it the N.W. are pillared partitions
kdms to cells, and on the W . side are
tro pilasters and four pillars about 12
t high, with tapering 3haftsand angular
espitus. To tne S., on an eminence,
is a round tower (40 ft. high), which
the priest calls a Calyarium. The
rtaiioase is on the outside, and in
placflB there are apparently embrasures
for ffons. The people about say it was
asedas a tower of defence. There is a
good view from the top over the plain ;
mdibout 4 m. off to the E. is the hill
in wkich are the
{ij Cave Temples of Kanliari ^ (Km-
?i«fy).— These caves are all excavated in
the face of a single hill in the centre
ofihe island of Salsette, and are about
5 m. by a bridle path from Borivli
Station on the B. B. and C. I. Railway,
2 m. N. of the dam of the Tulsi lake,
and 6 m. from the D.B. at Tanna (see
Ete. 1). There are 109 of these caves ;
bat though more numerous, they are
pronoimced by Mr. Fergusson^ to be
mich less interesting ttian those at
Ajanta, Elora, or Karli. The same
nthority considers that the greater
»rt of them in India, was executed
Va colony of Buddhists, "who may
uve taken refuge here after being ex-
l^led from the continent, and who
ined to reproduce the lost Karli in
fteir insidar retreat." The caves date
fern the end of the 2nd century a.d.
1» about the middle of the 9th, or pos-
Uj a little later. The great Chaitya
i one of the earliest here ; those on
leh side may be 2 centuries later : the
kest is prooably the unfinished one,
i^ch is the fust the traveller ap-
Iroaches by the usual route, and which
fctes about the 9th or 10th century
tD., or is even still more recent. How-
ler this may be, it is at least certain,
lat, to use Heber's words, *'the beau-
ftil situation of these caves, their
' The best and most complete information
{the sabject of these caves is to be found in
^ Ttmmes and BuddhUt Caves, by James
^Stm, lli.D., D.C.L.
^Boek^wt Temples of India, p. 34.
elaborate carving, and their marked
connection with Buddha and his re-
ligion, render them every way remark-
able." i
The path to them is narrow, and
winds along the sides of rocks, but
it is quite possible to proceed along
it in palkis or on horseback. Most
of the surrounding hills are covered
with jungle, but the one in which
are the caves is nearly bare, its
summit being formed by one large
rounded mass of compact rock, under
which a softer stratum has been de-
nuded by the rains, forming natural
caves, which, slightly improved by
art, were appropnatea as cells. The
road which ascends the hill leads to
a platform in front of the great arched
cave, where are several mounds of
masonry. The largest of them was
opened by Dr. Bird, and some relics
and inscriptions on copper were found.
This is the first stage of ascent to
the caves, which consist of six ranges,
on the ledges of the mountain, con-
nected with each other by footsteps
cut in the rock. The ascent is gradual
until within a few hundred yards
of the southernmost, when the path
becomes steep and rugged, and so
closely shaded with shrubs and lofty
trees as to conceal every appearance
of the caves until the traveller is
actually in front of them. In the
first which comes in view two massive
columns, of the same order as those
at Elephanta, support a plain solid
entablature, above which an oblong
square is hollowed out. Within are
two anterooms, and beyond, an un-
finished chamber, 26 ft. deep. The
front screen has three doors, and three
windows over them, and the partition
between the second and the inner
chamber has likewise three doors, and
over the centre one a large open arch,
rising nearly to the roof. Salt thinks
that the workmen began this cave
from the top, and worked downwards.
There are no figures or carvings here,
1 A good account of the Kanhari caves is
given by Salt, p. 47, vol. L, TnmsacUons qf
the Liierary Society of Bombay, which is here
followed, corrected by Dr. Burgess's account
in Cave Temples oflndia^
d by Google
24
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
Ivdi(L
and the details are of little interest.
Fergasson supposes it to be the latest
excavation in the hill, and to date in
the 9th or 10th century a.d., or even
later.
From this a vihara, consisting of a
long irregular verandah with cells at
he back extends in a direction from
S.W. to N.E. to the Great Cave, from
which it is divided by a partition,
so thin that it has been broken through
by some accident. It contains, and
this is the chief point of interest, two
sanctuaries, in which are dagobas, or
solid masses of stone or earth, in the
form of a cupola. The most southern
of these stands in a recess, the three sides
of which are divided into panels on
which are carved one, two, or more
figures of Buddha and of Bodhisatwas in
various attitudes. Behind the northern
dagoba Buddha is represented on a
lion -throne, which rests on a lotus,
whose stalk is supported by two boys
with hoods like that of the cobra.
From the main stem spring two others,
on which are two youths with the fans
called chaurif and one with a lotus-head
in his hand. Above are two flyingfigures,
and two of priests below, and a group is
thus formed, the fac- simile of which
is seen at Earli and Ajanta.
The Great Chaitya Cave joins this
verandah in the manner just men-
tioned ; it resembles the great cave at
Karli. Figures of Buddha 23 ft high
occupy both extremities. On the jamb
of the entrance to the verandah is an
inscription of Gautamiputra IL, in
the 4th cent. A.D. In front of the
cave itself is a portal, and after that a
vestibule. Between the verandah and
the Gh-ecU Caoe is a small tank. Five
steps lead up to the portal, which opens
into a court, where are two lofty
columns, that on the rt. surmounted
by 4 lions couchant. Its pedestal is
cut into panels and supports an image
of Buddha, whose head is canopied by
five heads of the hooded snake. The
left column has three dwarf figures on
the top, which once, perhaps, supported
a wheel. The whole space at the imher
end of the portico is occupied by the
front face of the cave, which is divided
by plain columns into three square
portals beneath and five open windows
above, beyond which is the vestibule.
On the right and left of the vestibok,
in recesses, are gigantic statues of
Buddha, 23 ft. high. The intenor
temple again is parted from the veiti-
bule by a second screen, the figures of
which, like all the carving of this care,
are most slovenly. The pillars tkt
surround the nave are of the sane
order as those at Earli, but mudi
inferior in execution. Six on one side
and 11 on the other have capitals omi-
mented with figures of elephants pour-
ing water from jars on the sacred bo
tree or on dagobas, and boys with
snake heads are also introduced. The
nave terminates in a semicircle, and
at this end is a dagoba.
Mr. Fergusson is of opinion that this
Great Chaitya Cave was excavated after
the vihara, and that the three dagobas
existing at its threshold are more
ancient than the cave itself. As the
spot had been regarded as sacred owing
to them, some devotee, he thinks, deter-
mined on excavating a great temple
behind and between them.
The Durbar Cave. — Proceeding a
little to the N.E. from the cave just
described, and turning to the rt.
round an angle of the rock, there is a
long winding ascent by steps cut in the
rock, leading to many smaller caves in
a ravine through which a strong moun-
tain torrent pours in the rainy season.
There are ranges of caves at different
heights on both sides the ravine, com-
municating by steps with one another,
and above are the remains of a dam
erected across the ravine, by which a
capacious reservoir was once formed.
The first cave on the rt. hand is the
so-called Dwrhar Cave^ or "Cave of
Audience," the finest vihara of the
series, and the onlv one that can com-
pete in size with those at Ajanta. It
IS 96 ft. 6 in. long, and 42 ft 3 in.
deep, exclusive of the cells. Immedi-
ately opposite is a vast excavation, in
which are a few fragments ot columns
hanging to the roof.
Upper Caves, — ^Ascending still higher
from the platform of the Great Cave,
the traveller comes to 20 or 30 exca-
vations, containing nothing of note.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
8APARA. — J0GE8HWAR CAVE
25
Above these again is another series of
nhans, of which several are very inter-
filing, their walls being entirely covered
lith figures, finely executed. The
nneral design is Buddha seated on a
Iitus. Bemains of plaster and painting
ire seen here and there. Mr. Fergusson
Huaiks on the peculiar head-djness of
tke principal figure in some of the
|roi^, wMch he had not noticed else-
where, and observes also that this
figure is attended by two female figures,
whereas the true Buddha is sdways
atteded by men. This is Padmapani
or iralokiteshwar, one of the Bodhi-
sat^ of later Buddhism, attended bv
twoTaras. On the E. side of the hill
is I broad, long, and level terrace,
cottnanding a very fine view of the
snnounding country.*
Jhe following passage from Dr.
Bird's book refers to a discovery of
gK&t importance made by him : —
"The tope at Kanhari, which was
opened bjr me in 1839, appeared to have
wen originally 12 or 16 ft. in height,
and of a pyramidal shape ; but being
ouch dilapidated, formed exteriorly a
bp of stones and rubbish. The largest
«f several being selected for examina-
tim, was penetrated from above to the
fee, which was built of cut stone.
ifter digging to a level with the ground
Bd clearing away the loose materials,
h workmen came to a circular stone,
toow in the centre and covered at
ie top by a piece of gypsum. This
stained two small copper urns, in
«e of which were a ruoy, a pearl,
•d small piece of gold mixed with
tiles. In this urn there was also a
^ gold box containing a piece of
ith, and in the other, ashes and a
ifer box were found. Outside the
Amlar stone there were two copper
ites, on which were legible inscrip-
ms in the Lot or cave character.
■e smaller of the plates had two lines
^writing in a character similar to that
kt with at the entrance of the A janta
•res; the larger one was inscribed
•Wi letters of an earlier date. The
%e inscriptions at Eanbari have been
Elated by Dr. Bahler in Dr. James Bur.
PI'i elaborate work already referred to on
h Templet amd BuddhUt Caves.
last part of the fu-st-mentioned inscrip-
tion contained the Buddhist creed, as
found on the base of the Buddha image
from Tirhut, and on the stone taken
from the tope of Samath, near Benares.**
The most cmious fact of all connected
with Kanhari is the existence there in
ancient times of a tooth of Buddha.
The cave over which inscription 7
of those mentioned by Stevenson is
engraved, is called Sakadatya-lena, the
** Buddha- tooth Cave," probably be-
cause the relic was there temporarily
deposited, while the tope in which it
was finally lodged was being prepared
(see p. 27).
(5) Snpara is a village W. of the B. B.
and C. I. Railway 3 m. N. W. of Bassein
Road station on that line. A Buddhist
tope at this place was opened which
yielded some highly interesting relics,
now to be seen in the great room of
the Ajsiatic Society in the Town Hall,
Bombay. The subject is worthy of the
study of Orientalists and the continued
research of travellers.
(6) Jogeshwar Cave.— 6 m. S. of
Magathana Caves, and 2 m. N.E. of the
village of Jogeshwar (about 1 m. from
Goregaon sta. on the B. B. and C. I.
line). Mr. Burgess attributes these
caves to the latter half of the 8th
cent. ; next to those at Elora they
are the largest in India, being 320 ft.
long by 200 ft. broad. The W. en-
trance is that now used ; but the
decorations on the E. side are more
carefully executed, and the prin-
cipal entrance was probably there.
Over the sloping path that leads to
the W. entrance a natural arch is
formed by the branches of a banyan
tree, which, shooting across, have
taken root on the other side, and
render the approach singularly pic-
turesque. Eight steps lead down to
a small anteroom, in which the figures
are greatly decayed. A door leads into
the Great Cave, and above this are two
figures in the attitude in which Rama
and Sita are often represented. The tall
figures on each side of the entrance are
exactly like the dwarapalnaX Elephanta.
The Great Cave is 120 ft. square, and
18 ft. from the door are 20 pillars of the
same order as at Elephanta, ,forming
oogle
26
BOMBAY AND ENVIRONS
Ifdia
an inner square. Within there is a
chamber 24 ft. sq., with 4 doors. This
is a temple sacred to Mahadeva. On
the waUs are the vestiges of many
figures. Over the door at the E. en-
trance is the curious design of a monster,
the rndkaraj with the mouth of a hippo-
E' uus, trimk of an elephant, and a
)n's tail, which appears to vomit
a sculptured group, representing
some scene of Shaiva mythology. From
this entrance two vestibules lead to
three doorways, which again open into
the Great Cave. Over the doorways are
some curious designs, as, e,g, over the
centre one a figure resembling Buddha,
and on one side a guardian leaning on
a dwarf, who grasps in his hands two
enormous snakes that are closely twined
round his body.
(7) Matheran.— 54 m. from Bombay
by G. I. P. Ely. (see Ete. 24).
(8) The Tansa Water Supply (D.B.
G. I. P. Kljr. to Atgaon sta., 59 m.)—
The increasing population of Bombay
led the mumcipality to construct a
still larger reservoir on the Tansa
River, about 60 m. N.E. of Bombay,
which was formally opened by H.E.
the Viceroy, Lord Lansdowne, in March
1892. The Dam which encloses the
watershed of ihe Tansa Eiver, com-
pleted 1891, is the largest piece of
masonry of modem times. It is of a
uniform height of 118 ft., and is 2 m.
long, 108 ft. thick at the base, and 24
ft. at the top, where a flagged road runs
along it. it encloses a lake 8 sq. m.
in area, and is capable of supplying
33,000,000 gallons daily (Engineer, Mr.
W. Gierke; Contractors, Mr. T. 0.
Glover, and Messrs. "Walsh, Lovatt,
and Co.)
(9) Karli. — 85 m, from Bombay;
caves 6 m. from rly. sta. (see Ete. 24).
(10) Oersoppa Falls (D.B.)— From
Bombay by steamer to Earwar. From
Karwar to Honawar (D.B.) by "man-
chul," 52 m., 15 rs. ; Honawar to Ger-
soppa, 18 m., by native boat up a
shallow river to Eule ; Gersoppa to the
Falls, 18 m., by manchul, 4-8 rs.
Write beforehand to the Mamlatdar at
Karwar for manchul, and to the Mam-
latdar at Honawar to make arrange-
ments. "There are in all 4 faUs,
which have been called the Great Fall,
the Eoarer, the Eocket, and the Dime
Blanche. In the first of these the
water, in considerable volume, mikes
a sheer leap down of 829 ft., wd
falls into a pool 132 ft dee^." The
others are all in line with this, aonss
the river, which is of gi-eat width. Bie
scenery up the valley and the ghat to
the Falls is superb, but road is vry
naalarious until Dec. or Jan., by which
time the Falls have run out a great d€iL
Provisions should be taken. This is a
long and somewhat toilsome journey ;
for full particulars see Ete. 28.^
.ROUTE 1.
Bombay to Calcutta by Nasik,
Caves of Ajanta, Jabalpur,
Allahabad, and Benaees.
BaU, 1400 m. (G. I. P. R and B. I. R): mai^
train 46 hours.
The rule for breaking journeys oi^
Indian railways allows tne traveller to
spend 16 days on the journey from
Bombay to Calcutta with one through
ticket. Cost, 1st class 91 rs. 11 as., 2nG|
class 45 rs. 14 as. , and servants 16 rs. 8as^
Luggage beyond a small allowance is
extra. The 85 m. between Bombay and
Igatpuri are by far the most picturesque
on the whole line between tne western
and eastern capitals, but unfortunately
the mail train each way passes ovei
the best part of this in tne dark. Th«
traveller can arrange to see it by day,
light, on the eastward journey, by pre
ceding the mail. He should leave b\
the midday train and reach I^tpui"
in the evening, rejoining the mail trail
at that place at night, and on th^
westward journey he should wait al
Igatpuri for a slow train.
I See also Dr. George Smith's Ijife qf 4oh\
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTB 1. TANNA — KALYAN
27
On leaving Bombay, between Sion
ud Coorla, the railway passes on a
auseway from the island of Bombay
tD the larger island of Salsette.
9 m. Coorla sta. Close by, rt., are
&e once famous cotton-mills.
21m. Tanna (Thana) sta., D.B.
An early Portuguese settlement, com-
landmg the most frequented passage
from the mainland to the island of Sid-
Ktte. Marco Polo (1298 a.d.) says,
"Tana is a great kingdom lying towards
flie west. . . . There is much traffic
bewi and many ships and merchants
freqaent the place. In 1320 four
ChoBtian companions of Friar Odoricus
hen suffered martyrdom. Friar Jor-
dans narrates that he baptized about
90jersons ten days* journey from Tanna,
bcides 35 who were baptized between
Tiana and Supara.
The country round Tanna was highly
ailtiyated, and was studded with
mansions of the Portuguese when, in
1737, it was wrested from them by the
Harathas. In 1774 the Portuguese sent
a formidable armament from Europe
fcr the avowed object of recovering
their lost possessions. The Government
<f Bombay determined to anticipate
feeir enterprise, and to seize upon the
Uand for the English. A force was
Kepared under General Robert Gordon,
caTannawas taken after a siege of three
ttys. On 6th March 1776 the Peshwa
kghoba by the Treaty of Bassein ceded
fce island of Salsette in perpetuity.
h 1816 Trimbakji Danglia, tne cele-
bted minister of Baji Rao, the last
\ fcshwa^ effected his escape from the
Irt of Tanna, though guarded by a
\ frong body of European soldiers. The
ifficuties of this escape were greatly ex-
terated all over the Maratha country,
ia it was compared to that of Shivaji
fcm the power of Aurangzib. The
^cipol agent in this exploit was a
laratna horse-keeper in the service
tf one of the English officers of the
trrison, who, passing and re-]>assing
nimbakji's cell, as if to exercise his
taster's horse, sang the information
« wished to convey in a careless
Banner, which disarmed suspicion,
whop Heber, who had seen Trimbakji
vprisoned in the fort of Chunar, was
much interested in this escape, and
writes —
''The groom's sineing was made
up of verses like the following :—
" Behind the bush the bowmen hide,
The horse beneatii the tree.
Where ahall I find a knight will ride
The Jungle paths with me ?
" There are five and fifty coursers "there,
And four and fifty men ;
When the fifby-fifth shall mount his steed,
The Deccan thrives again. "
Heber adds that Tanna is chiefly in-
habited by Roman Catholic Christians,
either converted Hindus or Portuguese,
who have become as black as the
natives and assume all their habits ; he
also describes the place as neat and
flourishing, and £unous for its breed of
hogs, and the manner in which the Por-
tuguese inhabitants cure bacon. The
English Church was being built when
he arrived, and on 10th July 1825 was
consecrated by him. In the 16th cent,
the Silk IindtLstry here employed about
6000 persons. It is now confined to
only 7 Portuguese families and 14 looms.
[Tanna is the best starting-place for
the Caves of Kanhari, excavated in
one of the hills of the island of Sal-
sette. It is about 6 m. drive in a
bullock-gharry to the foot of the hill.
There are 109 caves in all, and the
largest is 90 ft. x 40 ft. (see Environs
of Bombay at the beginning and p. 23). ]
88 m. Kalyan junct. sta. (R.) Here
the Madras line through Poona and
Raichur branches off S.E. (Rte. 22).
This is a very ancient town, and in
early times, no doubt, was the capital
of an extensive province. In 1780,
the Marathas having out off the
supplies from Bombay and Salsette,
the British Government determined
to occupy the Konkan opposite Tanna,
as far as the Ghats. Accordingly,
several posts were seized, and Kalyan
amongst them; and here Captain
Richi^ Campbell was placed with
a garrison. Nana Famavis forthwith
assembled a large force to recover
Kalyan, on which he set a high value,
and his first operations were very
successful. He attacked the English
advanced post at the Ghats, and
killed or made prisoners the whole
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 1. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
iwrfwi
detachment. He then compelled En-
sign Fyfe, the only survivmg officer,
to write to Captain Campbell that,
unless he surrendered, ne would
put all his prisoners, 26 in number,
to death, storm Ealyan, and put
all the garrison to the sword. To
this Campbell replied that, "the
Nana was welcome to the town if
he could take it." After a spirited
defence, he was relieved by Colonel
Hartley, on the 24th May, just as
the Marathas were about to storm.
The remains of buildings round
Ealyan are very extensive ; and Fryer,
who visited the place in 1673, "gazed
with astonishment on ruins of stetely
fabrics and many traces of departed
magnificence." A few miles S. is the
fine 10th century temple of AmtMr-
natb (p. 818).
Between Ealyan and Igatpuri, the
railway ascends from the Eonkan to
the Deccan plateau by the mountain-
pass, known as the Tal (Thull) Ghat.
75 m. Easara sta. (R.) Here a
special en^ne is attached and the
ascent of &e Ghat begins. In 9} m.
the line ascends 1050 ft.
At 79i m. is the reversing station,
and the ascent terminates at 85 m.
Igatpuri, 30c D.B. (R.), where the special
engine and brakes are removed.
The ascent of the Tal Ghat is at all
seasons interesting ; but it is most
beautiful in September owing to the
wild flowers. The leaves are then
bright green, and the country below
the Ghats is all streams, pools, and
inundations ; the Ghats themselves
all cascades and torrents. Igatpuri,
roperly Wigatpura, " the town of dif-
iculties," so called on account of the
precipitous road that preceded the
railway, is a pleasant sanitorium and
summer resort of Europeans from Bom-
bay. Some large game is to be foimd
in the neighbourhood. There are
several European bungalows belonging
to railway officials. The line passes
through a comparatively level country,
with low mountains on either side, to
113 m. Deolali sta. A halting-place
for troops arriving fipom or proceeding
to Europe. There are barracks for 1000
men.
I
117 m. NASIK Road ste., 3^ D.B.
( The Nasika of Ptolemy. )
A tramway conveys passengers to
the town, D.B. (1900 ft. above sea-
level), 6J m. N.W. of the sta. Pop.
35,000. It is one of the most sacred
places of the Hindus ; 1800 families
of Brahman priests are settled heie.
It is said that Lakshman, the elder
brother of Rama, cut off the n«e
of Sarpnakha, Ravana's sister ; and as
Nasika in Sanskrit is "a nose," lie
place hence got its name. The reil
cause of the sanctity of Nasik, however,
is its position on the banks of the sacred
river Godavari, about 19 m. from its
source at Trimbak.
Nasik may be called the Western
Benares, as the Godavari is termed the
Ganga — "Ganges." All Hindus of
rank on visiting it leave a record of
their visit with their Upadhya, or
"family priest," for each noble family
has such a priest at each celebrated
place of pilgrimage. In this record
are entered tibe names of the visitor's
ancestors, and thus the pedigree of
every Hindu chief is to be found in the
keeping of these Upadhyas. Even
Jang Bahadur, the late de fa/io ruler
of Nipa], had his Upadhya at Nasik.
The present Gaekwar owes his seat on
the throne to this custom, for when
the Gaekwar of Baroda was deposed
and an heir sought for, the family
Upadhya at Nasik supplied proofs of
the young prince's legitimate descent
from Pratap Rao, brother of Damaji,
the third Gaekwar.
The Sundar Narayan Temple was
built by one of Holkar*s Sanlars in
1725. It is smaller than that of the
Black Rama (see below), but a miracle
of art. Below it may be seen the
temples of Balaji and of the White
Bamxiy and the Memorial erected to the
Eapurthala Rajah, who died in 1870
near Aden, on his way to Europe.
From Sundar Narayan Temple the rivei
is crossed by a bridge, completed is
1897, which cost Rs. 1.81.000.
At Nasik the river, here 80 yds. broad
is lined on either side for a distance o;
400 yds. with flights of steps, and dottec
with temples and shrines, and, as ii
most Indian cities situated near flowin|
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTB 1. NASIK
29
rivers, the view along the banks when
iiundreds of men and women are bath-
ing is extremely picturesque. The
part of the town which stands on the
rt bank of the river is built upon 8
hills, and is divided into the New Town
K. ind the Old Town S. The quarter
on the 1. bank, where are the chief
objects of interest, is called Panchwati.
The manufacture of brass and copper
nan, especially of idols, caskets, boxes,
chains, lamps, etc., flourishes here.
Specimens of the beautiful old work,
thongh rare, are still occasionally to be
foiffld in the " old '* copper bazaar.
The temples at^Nasik, though pic-
turesque, have no striking architectural
fettures.
} m. to the W., on the Panchwati
sk of the river, is a solidly-built house
MoDgiog to the Rastia family. Here
ifight and walk a few hundred yards
ap a lane to five very old and large
trees of the Ficus indica species. U nder
the shade of the largest is a small build-
ing. None but Hindus may pass the
vestibule. It consists of a low room,
at the S. end of which is an arch 3 ft.
high, and beyond steps descend to
2 apartments 5 ft. sq. and 4 ft high.
In the first room are images of Rama,
Sita, and Lakshman. In the second
is an image of Mahadeo, 6 in. high,
rhich those three personages are said
to have worshipped ; hence arises the
extreme sanctity of the place, which is
Jnite one of the holiest in Nasik. This
ole is Sita's Onpha, or Cave, where
! ihe found an asylum until lured away
j 1)? Bavaua to Ceylon. Farther down
j the river, and just before reaching
I the riverside, is the oldest temple in
the place, Eapdleshwar, ''God of the
! Skull," a name of Shiva. The ascent
to it is by 50 stone steps. It is said
to be 600 years old, but is quite plain
ind unattractive. Opposite to it the
river foams and rushes in a rocky bed.
Kama's Kund is the place where the
^ is said to have bathed ; hence it
, B very sacred, and bones of the dead
ire taken there to be washed away.
Opposite to it and in the river itself is
I stone dharmsala, with several arches,
lK)&d over, in which ascetics lodge
thm th3 water is low. Down the
stream, about 20 yds., are three temples
erected by Ahalya Bai. The first is
only a few feet high and long, but the
next is a large square building, with a
stone foundation and brick superstruc-
ture, dedicated to Rama ; N. of it is
a long dharmsala, and a little down
the stream is the third temple, all of
stone. About 200 ft. down the stream
is Nam Shaakar's temple, with an
elaborately carved portico and a large
stone enclosure. This ends the temples
immediately on the water on the Panch-
wati side. Proceed then J m. by a
back way through streets of well-built
houses to the great temple dedicated to
Kal& Rama, or "Black Rama," which
cost £70,000. It stands in an oblong
stone enclosure, with 96 arches. To
the W. is a hill called Sunar 'All,
and there is another hill close by,
called Junagadh, or Old Foii;, on
which is a square building, in which
Aurangzib's chief officials used to
reside. They command fine views over
the city. The Hingue Wada, an old
palace of the Peshwa (chief of the
Mahrattas), at present used as a school,
is worth a visit for its beautiful carved
wood-work.
The traveller should not leave Nasik
without visiting Sharanpore, seat of
the mission founded by the Church
Missionary Society in 1835, in the
Junawadi part of Nasik, and moved to
Sharanpore by Mr. W. S. Price in 1855.
Since tne establishment of the Grovem-
ment High School at Nasik in 1872
the missionary school has fallen off.
There was connected with this mission
an African Asylum for youths rescued
from slavery, and it was from here that
Livingstone's Nasik hoys were drawn.
It closed in 1875, and Mr. Price took
the boys to the E. coast of Africa, where
a colony is established for redeemed
slaves. There is a well-built but archi-
tecturally disappointing church.
In a hill 4| m. S. of Nasik are the
Lena Caves. A narrow path ascends
to the height of about 450 ft to a
broad black line in the N. face of the
hill, which extends about J m. in length,
and marks the excavations. In the
centre, just opposite the spot where
the path ends, is a Cave 37 ft x 29 ft. ,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
30
ROUTE 1. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
India
and 10 ft. high, with a perfectly flat
roof, hewn out of the solid rock. Kound
the central chamber are 16 cells, each
6 ft sq. with a recess, hewn so as to
make a couch -for the inmate. In the
centre is a modem figure of Bhairav
(see below) with a mace, on which he
leans with his left hand. On either
side of him is an earlj female figure.
That on the right is fairly well carved.
On the inside face of the corridor, and
on one side, is a long inscription in old
Pali characters. To the W . is a small
cave with two pillars with elephants on
their capitals ; then a ruined cell with
a broken inscribed tablet. Next is a
fine cave (No. 3) with six pillars, of
which two are broken, and the heads
and busts of six giants supporting the
basement of the corridor. Inside the
verandah, on the left of the entrance,
are two long inscriptions. The door
has a figure about 4 ft. high on either
side, which is probably a Yaksha, and
all round the door are small figures
much defaced. Then there is a large
chamber, nearly the same size as that
in the first cave, with 18 cells surround-
ing it. At the end is a da^oba with
figures on the sides, a carved belt half
way up, and a double ornament at top.
To the W. is a low cave with 12 figures.
On the left is Buddha, seated, with
attendant figures on either side, and
opposite are other two figures. To the
W. in a line with them is a figure 3 ft.
6 in. high, called by the guides Gautama.
Then there is a large excavation, about
20 ft. long, called Sita's tank which
is carried under the rock. There are
four pillars in front, two of them broken.
Above is a frieze 6 in. broad, with figures
of horses, bulls, deer, and elephants.
Beyond is a tank. To the E. is a
Chaitya cave (No. 13) with seven pillars
and a dagoba, which the guides say is
Bhhn's mace. Beside it is a vihara
(No. 12) approached by steps. It has
seven cells round it, and at the N. end
a defaced figure of a goddess.
Farther £. is the large Vihara Cave
(No. 15). It is 46 ft. deep, and 37 ft.
broad. There are 22 cells round it. On
the right and left of the q)eotator as he
enters the ante-chamber to the shiine
are two dw&rapals, probably Manjushri
and Avalokita. In the recess is a;
seated figure of Buddha, as he sits
with attendant disciples or Boohisatvas. |
There is a wall 3 ft. high in front of;
the recess, which is so dark tiiatl
nothing can be seen without a torch.!
There are several other smaller cellsl
of less importance.^
About 2 m. E. of the town, in tlie
hill of Ramshej, is another group of
excavations, but they are of little im-
portance.
19 m. by road is Trimbak.
There are several stone-faced wdls
on this route, and at Nirwadi, on the
right of the road, is a beautiful tank
lined with stone, and with stone steps
and 2 small paeodas built by Ahalya
Bai. Near Warn 2 conical hills, about
900 ft. high, face each other on eithe^
side of the road. From these the hillti
run in fantastic shapes to TWmbak
where they form a gigantic crescenl
from 1210 to 1600 ft. high. Belo^j
this mountain waU, which has nea^
11
the top a scarp of about 100 ft., is th^
small town of about 8000 inhab. I
derives its name from Tri, "three
and Ambak, "eye" ; three-eyed bein^
a name of Shiva. The Fort stands oi]
an impregnable height, 1800 ft. abov^
the town. The Temple of Trlmbakeslii
wax, which is on the E. side of th^
town, not far from where the Nasil
road enters, was built by the great Baj
Kao Peshwa, who died in 1740. I
cost £90,000. It stands in a stone eni
closure, which has no corridor, but «
portico, which is the music gaUeryl
and is 40 ft. high. The ascent is b^
steps outside, and strangers are perj
mitted to mount in order to look int^
the interior of the temple, which non^
but Hindus may enter. A flight ol
690 steps up a hul at the back of Trim
bak leads to the sacred source of th^
river Grodavari, where "the watei
trickles drop by drop from the lips o
a carven image shrouded by a canop;
of stone" into a tank below. For ■
1 See Fergusson and Burgess, Cave TenpUi
pp. 268-270, and plates xix.>xxyi ; and Buigess
Cktve Temples, pp. 87flr.
d by Google
ftOttTB 1. ElPSDlTIOl^ !rO AJAKIIA
31
IL the banks of the stream, 15 ft. broad,
are &ced with stone. The water is
&*ty. On its coarse is a fine stone
tank, surrounded on three sides by a
portions 25 ft high, with a pagoda at
eich comer. This is the sacred bath-
ing-place of pilgrims, and is called the
Kushawat. In front of it are two stone
enclesures full of filthy water, into
rhifih the leaves offered to the deities
ire thrown and there decompose. At
the 8. end is a temple to Shiva.
147 m. Laaalgaon sta. From this
place Gh4mdoT, an interesting town,
oveAung by a fine hill -fort, is 14 m.
N. by a good road. The Maharajah
Hcftar is hereditary Patel of Chandor.
The fort was taken by the British in
18M, and again in 1818.
162 m. Mniimar junct. sta., D.B. (B./
Tlas is the junction of the Dhond
ud Munmar State Railway, which
forms a cord line between the N.E.
and S.E. branches of the G.I.P.R.
About 4 m. S. of the station is the
Ankai Tanki Fort, now in ruins, and
1 Buddhist caves of some interest.
Between tile caves and the station
rises a curious hill called Bam Gulni,
mrmounted by a natural obelisk of
trap rock 80 or 90 feet high.
178 m. Naadgaon sta., D.B. (B.)
From here a road runs S.E. to Auran-
gabad, 56 m., the fort of Daulatabad,
ffld the Caves of EUora (see Rte. 2).
282 m. Fadiora sta., D.B. From
bere the Oaves of Ajanta, distant 84 m.,
ve reached by a rough road.
[Expedition to AJaata.
The D.B.^ nearest to the caves is at
Fardapur, 80 m. from Pachora. The
kcst way is to write at least one clear
day before to the Mamlatdar (native
magistrate) at Pachora asking him
to arrange for conveyances. A traveller
vho does not know the language well
must be accompanied by a servant or
interpreter, and each person must have
bedding and provisions. The journey
1 It is said that the best road to AJa^ta is
low ftora. Jalgaon sta. (distance about 80 m.)
foither B. along the line. Special arran^e-
aents for carriages are necessary, and permis-
sion to occupy, if required, one of the two
Dak Bungalows on the road. The travel'er
should write one clear day or two days bAfore-
haud to the Gollector of Khandesh at Dholia.
mentioning the number of persons in the
party.
will take from 9 to 12 hours, and cost
from 12 to 16 rs. for each cart Not
more than 80 pounds of luggage should
be taken in the cart The less the
better for speed and comfort. There
are fairly good guides on the spot.
The caves are a good hour's walk, 4 m.
by a bridle-path from the D.B. at
Fardapur. The bed of the Wagora
river is crossed and recrossed several
times. The ravine is wooded. The
caves extend about one-third of a mile
from E. to W., and are excavated in
the concave scarp of the trap rock, at an
elevation of from 35 to 110 ft above the
bed of the stream. The most ancient
caves are near the K end.
Following Fergusson's arrangement,
they are numbered from E. to W . The
cave-temples and monasteries of Ajanta
furnish a history of Buddhist art, and
illustrate the legends of the religion and
the domestic life of the people from
shortly after the reign of Asoka to
shortly before the expulsion of the faith
from India. The oldest caves are
believed to date from about 200 B.c.^
The narrow path by which access is
gained to the caves reaches them at the
seventh cave from the E. Thence the
path goes on ascending to E. and W.
along a narrow ledge, in some places
little more than 2 ft. broad, and reaches
cave Number 1, the farthest point on
the E. This is a Vihara. Dr. Burgess
assigns this cave to the 7th century.
The fa5ade is richly decorated with
sculptured processions of elephants,
horses, and people. On the S. frieze of
the portico is a very sjArited repre-
sentation of a wild buffalo hunt. The
hunters are mounted and armed with
bows and arrows. The door jambs are
embellished with male and female
figures in amatory attitudes. The great
hall or central chamber is 64 ft sq.,
and has 20 pillars. The capital of
one on the S. side is remarkable for
four bodies of deer with only one head,
which suits each body according to the
position from which you look at it
There are remains of highly interesting
1 The Indian Grovemment caused copies of
these ancient mural paintings to be made,
and ninety of them may be seen at the South
Kensington Museum. Several were destroyed
by a fire soon after arrival. t
oogle
32
ROUTE 1. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
tndu
paintings in oil on the walls of this cave.
Remark on the rieht-hand side of the
back wall a very Chinese-looking figure
of a youth with a perfectly white skin.
Remark also four pictures of a group
of four figures, which Mr. Fergusson
has pronounced to be very probably
Khusru and Shirin and two attendants.
Khusru II., or Khusru Parviz, whose
loves with Shirin are the subject of
some of the most famous Persian poetry,
reigned from 591 to 628 A.D. This king
of Persia received an embassy from a
king of the Deccan, in whose territory
were the Caves of Ajanta, and it is
thought by some that when the embassy
returned the king sent with it Persian
painters who executed these designs.
The king, a large fair man with all the
look of a voluptuary, and dressed in
Eastern robes with a strange high
loose cap something like the red night-
cap which used to be worn in England,
holds a broad shallow cup, into which
a beautiful girl, supposed to be Shirin,
is pouring wine from a vase of classic
character. In another tableau the
king in royal state is receiving and
apparently sending back the embassy
from the Indian prince. There is a
sort of fillet worn by Khusru, which
resembles that exhibited on a patera
in Paris, and displays an undoubted
representation of Khusru. In the
shrine of this cave Buddha is seated in
the teaching attitude. There are four
cells in the back wall besides the shrine,
and five in each side wall. The paint-
ings in this cave, as in Numbers 2 and
16, are, in Dr. Burgess's opinion, auite
equal in colour and groupmg to those
at Pompeii.
Number 2, a vihara cave. There are
two chapels to the verandah. Observe
in ceiling near the S. chapel two figures
of men with striped socks. One holds
a beautifully-shaped amphora, and a
flattish cup in his hand. The flowers
on the ceiling are particularly beautiful.
Inside the side chapels in the back
wall are very remarkable ItalianJook-
ing female figures. The middle one
of one of the 4 groups has quite the
look of a Madonna, and all resemble
the Italian paintings of the early part
of the 14th century. Buddha holds
the little finder of his left hand with thJ
thumb and forefinger of the right. Th^
Mohammedans seem not to have geaer
ally destroyed the noses here as tkej
have at Ellora. In the centre o^
Buddha's throne isthe Wheel of theLaii
between two deer. The chapel in th^
back wall, on the right of the shrine, ha<
two figures, which are either the pa^i
and patroness or Indra and Indmiil
In the left-hand top comer is a verj
remarkable groun, to all appearance \
woman teaching her child to pray, anc
resembling a famous European piotir«
On the frieze below is a ram-fignt, anc
figures boxing and wrestling, witl
musicians and a president. The Italian
looking figures of fair women are man^
of them nude to the waist. The chape
on the left has two male figures with head
dresses like wings of an enormous size
and all hanging on the left shoulder, j
Number 3, 9, small vihara, quite un
finished.
Number 4, a large vihara. There il
a very remarkable representation of th(
Litany, as it is called by Dr. Burgess
on the right of the door, consisting o
two sets of four groups each. The ls{
group on the left consists of two figure!
nying from an infuriated elephant
the 2d group is of two figures flyinj
from a lion; the 8d exhibits tw<
figures flying from a roan with i
sword, who is stabbing one in th<
stomach ; the 4th group is intende*
to represent the perils of the sea, but i
so much obliterated that one can mak)
out nothing but some fibres in a vessel
The 1st group on the nght hand repre
senta the perils of fire ; the 2d grou]
is a pair of figures threatened by i
cobra ; the 3d group is of two figures
one of which holds tne other by a rope
which passes over his shoulder and l
fastenea round his wrist, — this repre
sents Captivity ; the 4th group repre
sents Kali the Hindu goddess of destruc
tion, uplifting her skeleton arms to seizi
a victim, — this represents Famine.
Number 6, a vihara, commenced only
Number 6, a vihara, remarkable foi
having two stories, of which there h
here only one other example, viz, cavt
Number 25. The staircase to th<
upper stoiy is broken away to th(
d by Google
BOUTB 1. EXPEDITION TO AJANTA
83
\Bgh.t of 18 ft., 80 that that story is
iloiost inaccessihle. The Bhil free-
bten for a long time inhabited this
•76, and damag^ it excessively.
Nvtnber 7, a vihara. It has a large
leraiidah with cells at the back like the
(bttaek Caves. Two porches of two
jdlars each project from the front line
of the venuadah, resembling those at
Gepbsnta and the Duma Lena, and are
]ioDtbIy of the same date. There is also
leh^ with two pillars at either end.
la tie vestibule are 4 rows of 5 cross-
kged figures seated on the lotus, with
ilottt Mtween each pair, and one row
of sbdying Buddhas. On the right
aie tro similar sculptures of repeated
figiiiiB of Buddha seated and standing.
Wiiin the sanctuary on either side are
two large figures and one small, and
tvD £m-bearer8. On the step are 16
cnss-l^ged figures, 8 on either side.
i^woKr 8, a vihara of no interest.
A^imier9isadagoba. There are 3 in-
scriptions, probably of the 2d cent. a.d.
dumber 10, a dagoba. The statue
of Buddha is quite separated from the
nil The roof is ribbed. The ribbing
IB the aisles being of stone, and in the
tt?e of wood, wough now only the
^ning pins, and the footings for one
ttwo of the ribs are left. The da-
(iitta is plain and solid, with only the
•pare capital or Tee on the top. The
%Ie of this cave has been painted,
4ingh now only some figures ofBuddha
«i his disciples are len. On the in-
fcior fiice of the cave, and very high
%is an inscription in the pure Ldt (see
wary) character, which would give
•antiquity of from 200 to 100 B.o.
i/wnwer 11 resembles cave Num-
W 12, but has four pillars in the
<ltre supporting the roof, being prob-
% one of the earHest instances of
h introduction of pillars for such a
fipose. On the walls are antelopes,
fcs, and a boy praying, sculptured in
lb very best style of ait, and evidently
omd with the Ganesh Gupha at
lOtttack. The walls have been stuccoed
M painted.
Muniber 12 is one of the most ancient
ill plainest of the series, having no
ftkrSf sanctuary, or visible object of
Ntship. The only ornament consists
of seven horse-shoe canopies on each
side, four over the doors of the ceUs,
the other three merely ornamental.
These canopies are very similar to
those at Cuttack. There is an inscrip-
tion on the inner wall in a character
slightly modified from that on the
LdtSy and written probably early in the
Christian era, if not before it.
Number 18, a small cave with 2 cells.
Number 14, a large unfinished vihara.
Number 15, a plain square cave.
Number 16 and Number 17 are the
two finest viharas of the series. On the
external faces are two long inscriptions.
These caves date probably about the
4th century A. D. The paintings in the
great hall are very interesting, repre-
senting battles. The soldiers hold
short swords like the Nipalese knife,
and oblong shields, like the shield of
Achilles. The architectural details
are more ele^mt than in any cave in
the series. Number 17 is called the
Zodiac Cave, and resembles 16, except
that it is not so lofty, and the detam
are not so elegant. Tlie paintings, how-
ever, are more perfect. On the right-
hand wall, as you enter, a procession is
painted. Three elephants are issuing
from a gateway, one black, one white,
and one red. Flags and umbrellas are
borne before them, and men with-speara
and swords make up the train. On the
back wall is a hunting scene, in which
a maned lion, now not found in India,
is a prominent figure. In the verandah
are some curious paintings, especially a
circular one, with eight compartments.
Over the door are eight sitting figures,
of which four are black, and the rest
each a degree fairer, the eighth being
quite white and wearing a crown. Mr.
Fergusson pronounces these paintings
to be decidedly superior to the style
of Europe during the age in which
they were execut^.
Number 18 is merely a porch with
two pillars.
Number 19 is a chaitya (see Glossary)
cave, remarkable for the beauty of its
details. The roof is ribbed in stone.
The dagoba has three stone umbrellas,
rising till they touch the roof ; in front
is a standing figure of Buddha.
Number 20 is a vihai'a.
dbyGoOgl^
84
ROUTE 1. BOMBAT TO CALCUTTA
India
Number 21. The paintings are
almost obliterated, except on the left
hand as you enter, where there is a
large black Buddha with red hair,
attended by black slaves, also a number
of females, fair as Europeans.
Numbers 22 and 23 are unimportant.
Number 24 is unfinished; but the
details, where completed, are so rich as
to leave no doubt that this would have
been one of the finest caves had the
design been fully carried out Only one
pillar has been completely sculptured.
Number 25 is a small rude vmara.
Number 26 is a vaulted ohaitya cave,
and perhaps the most modem of the
series. It resembles Number 19, but
is much larger. Its sculptures are
more numerous and minute than any
other. The Buddha in front of the
dagoba is seated, with his feet down.
The walls are covered with sculptures
of Buddha and disciples. In uie S.
aisle is a figure 23 ft. 3 in. long, reclin-
ing all its length, in which attitude
Buddhists prepare to receive nirvdnaht
"beatitude." Above are many angels,
one of them sounding vigorously a big
drum. The fat figures which serve as
brackets have four arms. There are
•two inscriptions on the outside, one
under a figure of Buddha on the left of
the entrance ; the other much broken,
but more distinct, on the right, in the
character of the 6th century A.D.
Number 27 is small and unfinished.]
276 m. Bhnsawal June. sta. (R.) A
place called into existence by the
G.I.P.E. works. Junction of the
Bengal - Nagpur Railway. (See p.
73.)
278i m. The TapU Bridge, one of
the most important works on the line.
The first bridge built was abandoned
in consequence of the inferior nature
of the stone of which it was con-
structed.
310m.Burhanpur8ta.D.B. The city
18 about 8 m. distant. Pop. 84,000.
It lias been a place of much import-
ance, and is completely walled in. The
neighbourhood contains some interest-
ing Mohammedan ruins, and a curious
aqueduct still in use. In the town are
two handsome mosques. The Baithai
KUla—thQ ruins of a citadel and pikce
— ^is beautifully situated on a hekht
overlooking the Tapti river. fh«
place was founded in 1400 A.D. by
Naser Ehan of the Faruki dynasty of
Ehandesh, and was annexea to the
Mogul Empire by Akbar in 1600 A.D.
It was the capital of the Deccan Pro-
vince of the empire when in 1614 A.D.
Sir Thomas l^e, ambassador ^m
James I. to the great Mogul, passed
through, and paid his respects to the
Viceroy Prince Parvis, son of Jehanglr.
Sir Thomas complains that the Prince
'' made himself orunk out of a case ol
bottles I gave him, and so the visit
ended." The place was taken bj
General Wellesley in 1808, and mvei
back to Sindia the next year. It ii
now British territory.
822 m. Chandni sta. About 6 m. b]
a fair road is Asirgarh, an interest
ing and picturesque hill-fort, a detache^
rock standing up 850 ft. from the sur
rounding plam. It Was taken by stom
by General Well^ey's army in 180^
restored to Sindia, and a^in taken ii
1819, since when it has belonged to thi
British. The country around is wili
and abounds in large game.
858 m. Ehaadwa junc. sta., D.c
(R. ) A civil station, the chief place c
the district of Nimar in the Centn
Provinces. From here the metre-gauj
system of the Bombay, Baroda, a^
Central Indian Railway runs N. I
Mhow, Indore, and through Westei
Malwa to Ajmere, Agra, and Delhi m
Bte. 4) ; also to Ferozpore, Pmnab. 1
417 m. Harda sta., D.B. close
station, good (pop. about*14,000).
important mart for the export
grain and seeds. Here the rail^
enters the great wheat -field of 1
Nerbudda valley, which extends
Jubbulpore. Haida has a good IX
8 m. walk from the sta. Ralli B]
have an agency at Harda.
464 m. Itarsi junc sta., D.B. (
d by Google
B0X7TE 1. EXPSDITIOK TO THE MARBLB ROOKS
35
horn this the system of the Indian
Kdlaod Bailway rans N. to Hoshan-
|d)ad, Bhopal, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra,
ad G^wnpore (see Bte. 6),
505 m. Pipaiia sta. 3^ There is a
QOBifortable D.B. dose to the station.
[i fair road leads in 32 m. S. to
hchaarijsOc the hill-station of the
OBQtnl Provinces. There are many
bnngalows at Pachmari and barracks,
^ciare occupied by European troops
in the hot season. The station is nearly
40OO feet above sea -level. There is
aD.E on the way ; the ascent, which
is 12 m. long, is very pleasing. Good
large-game diooting in the forests
below the station.]
5U m. 0adarwara junc. sta. A
railway 12 m. long leads S. to the Moh-
pui coal-mines, worked by the Ner-
bndda Coal Co.
616 m. JABALFUB sta. s^c (792
m. from Calcutta b;^ the Allahabad
route). (R.), an important civil
tad military station, the meeting-
"^ce of the G.I. P. and East Indian
The town (pop. 84,570) and station
M well laid out and well cared for,
k contain little of interest in them-
ires. Travellers stop here in order to
iit the Marble Rocks (see below. ) In
liinodern settlement of India few sub-
^ have created more interest than
ii suppression of the Thags {Thug8\
4itemity devoted to the murder of
kan beings by strangulation. The
" ipation was hereditary. They made
t once a religion and a means of
ihood. The principal agent in
iting down these criminals was
lelSleemau, and it was at Jabal-
|t — ^ great centre of their operations
«ftat the informers and the families of
^captured Thags were confined. They
Ike kept in an enclosed village, and
^provide them with occupation the
#e famous " School of Industry " was
elished in 1885. Originally there
2500 of these people, now very few
JNliin. A pass is required to see the
BSkig vUla^e, and the interesting and
pi organSed JalL
[Expedition to the Marble Bocks.^
The Marble Rocks, which are 11 m.
from Jabalpur, are worth a visit.
Tongas can be hired for the trip. The
road is heavy and dusty in places, but
generally Kood. About half-way, and
i m. olf the main road is a remarkable
ancient fortress of the Gond Kings,
perched on the summit of an enormous
granite boulder. At 9J m. turn 1. to
the rocks by a branch road, which for
the last i m. is impracticable in the
rains. There is a comfortable D.B.
Descend 70 ft. to the river-side, and
there embark. Four men to row and
one to steer are quite enough. The
river in the dry season is a series of
deep pools without current, and of a
dark green, and full of fish and alli-
gators. The latter do not come out on
the rocks till the sun is high, when
they bask, and might be shot at, were
it not for the bees. There are pigeons,
too, and water-fowl, but shooting has
its perils, for there are both hornets'
and bees' nests. These quickly attack
Jiersons who fire guns or make a noise,
ust at the end of the pools, at a place
called the Monkey's leap, two young
railway engineers were attacked by bees
as they were shooting. One got ashore
and ran off with the natives into the
jungle, and though much stun^, escaped
death. The other jumped into the
water and dived, and though a good
swimmer, was drowned, for when he
came up the bees attacked him again,
and would not leave him till he sank.
The nests are quite black, and more
than a yard long. The cliffs are of
white marble, which, when broken, is
bright and sparkling, but the surface
is somewhat discoloured by the weather
Near the new bungalow, where are
several white temples, the cliffs are
80 ft. high. The water is said by the
people of the place to be here 160 ft.
deep. 1 m. farther the barrier rocks
intercept the stream, and no boat can
pass in the dry season. In the rains ^
1 Passengers who are pressed for time, h^
telefiraphing beforehand to the hotel manager
at Jabalpur to have a carriage rea^for
them at the rly. sta., may visit thei>ocks,
and proceed on their journey by the fqiowing
train.
Digitized
by Google
36
ROUTE 1. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
Indii
the riyer rises 30 ft, and is then a
mighty torrent, and very dangerous
About i m. upon the 1. is an in-
scription in the Nagri character, made
by Madhu Rao Peshwa. f m. 1. are
curious rocks called Hathi ka Panw,
** elephant's legs," from a fancied resem-
blance. The neight of the rocks no-
where exceeds 90 ft., and though the
scenery is picturesque, it is not grand.
There is a cascade { m. beyond the
barrier rocks called the Dhuandhar
or ** Smoke Fall. " 80 yds. beyond the
bungalow is a flight of 107 stone steps,
some of them carved, which lead to
the Madanpur Temple, surrounded by
a circular stone enclosure. All round
it are figures of Parvati, with one leg
in her kp. Though much mutilated,
they are quite worm a visit.]
673 m. Xatni juno. sta. Line S.E.
to the coal-fields at Umaria 37 m., and
thence to Bilasipur on the Bengal-Nag-
pur Ely. (p. 76;. ' A line W. to Saugar.
784 m. Sutna (or Satna) sta., D.B.
(B. ). A town and British cantonment in
the Bewah state, also the headquarters
of the Baghelkhand Political Agency.
The Umbaila road branches from this
point eastward meetingthe Great Dewari
Koad which runs from Jabalpur to Mir-
zapur. Rewah is situated on this road
8 m. from the junction. There is nothing
whatever to see at Sutna. Near Satna
were found the remains of the Bharhut
stupa removed to Calcutta Museum.
788 m. Manikpur junc. sta. From
this place the Indian midland line runs
W. to Jhansi, 181 m. (Rte. 5a).
842 m. Naini sta. (R.) Hotel Close
by is the Jail, one of the largest in
India, and admirably managed. 2 m.
farther the line crosses the Jumna by a
fine bridge, and enters
844 m. Allahabad sta. » The
capital of the North- West Provinces,
316 ft. above sea-level (pop. 162,896),
is a good place to make a halt,
'^vellers coming from Bombay or
N<??***» between the months of
to 'P^y. *^d March, are warned
clothe?^^; themselves with warm
RTiH W«nket8, as they will find
it cold at Allahabad and &rther n(Hth
Allahabad is situated on the 1. bani
of the Jumna river, on the wedge o
land formed bv its junction with th
Gan^s, crossed by 2 bridges of boat
on tne N. side of the town.
The Fort stands near the junction c
the Ganges and the Jumna. The (5v:
Station, Cantonments, and City stretc
W. from this point 6 m. The preaei
Fort and City were founded by Akbs
in 1575 A.D., but the Aryans possesse
a very ancient city here called Prayaj
The Hindus now call it Prag. It is
very sacred place with them, as the
believe that Brahma performed h
sacrifices of the horse here, in memM
of his recovering the four Vedas fipoi
Shankhasur. The town was visitc
by Megasthenes in the 3d cent. b.<
and in the 7th cent A.D. Hiou<
Thsang, the Buddhist pilgrim, visit*
and described it. It was first conquert
by the Moslems in 1194 A.D., und
Shahabu-din-Ghori. At the end •
Akbar's reign Prince Salim, afterwan
the Emperor Jehangir, governed it ai
lived in the fort. Jehangir's soi
Ehusru, rebelled against him, bat w
defeated and put under the custody
his brother Ehurram, afterwards tj
Emperor Shah Jehan. Ehusru di*
in 1615, and the Khusru Bctgh (s
below) contains his mausoleum.
1736 Allahabad was taken by t
Marathas, who held it till 1750, wh
it was sacked by the Pathans of Farrc
habad. It changed masters sevei
times, and in November 1801 it \
ceded to the British.
Allahabad was the seat of the goTe^
ment of the N.W. Provinces fn
1884 to 1855, when that was removed
Agra. In 1858, after the suppresd
of the Mutiny, it again became 1
seat of the provincial government.
In May 1857 the all-impori
station of Allahabad, with its mal
ficent Arsenal and strong Fort, wail
spite of the warnings of Sir Jti
Outram, garrisoned by a single S^
regiment, the 6th, to which, on
May a wing of the Ferozpur r^ui
of Sikhs and, ten days later, two ti?
of 'Oudh Irregular Horse, were a<l
The officers of the 6th N.I. were
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ROOTE 1. ALLAfiABAB
S7
Bent In the loyalty of their corps, but
iirttinately a few days later 60 English
ioyalid soldiers were brought in from
Qmnar. The history of the outbreak
i Allahabad is one of the saddest
diapters in the long list of misfortunes
fhich marked the commencement of
fte great Mutiny of 1867. Fifteen
cficere were murdered by the Sepoys.
It was an awful crisis. Had the
£khs in the Fort fraternised with the
Sepoys, that stronghold, with its im-
meoM stores of guns and ammunition,
f onU have gone to swell the strength
9f lie rebels ; but Brasyer, who com-
ma]^ the Sikhs, drew up his detach-
meitat the main gate, and with him
wen the guns manned by the English
in^d artillerymen from Chunar, and
sioiil knots of English volunteers.
Tie Sepoys were overawed, disarmed,
a&i expelled from the Fort. Mean-
f iile Russell, an officer of the Artillery,
M. laid trains to the magazines, and
was prepared to blow them up in case
of a reverse. While this went on
in the Fort, anarchy reigned in the
city--the jail was broken open, and
the inrisoners, with the irons still
ttttling on their limbs, murdered every
Mtian they met. On the morning
of the 7th the Treasury was sacked,
«d the 6th N.I. disbanded itself,
«^h man taking bis plunder to his
Jative villaga Each Sepoy canied off
3(100 or 4000 rs., and many of them
*re murdered by the villagers. A
liohammedan Maulvi was put up as
Wemor of Allahabad, and took up
^ Quarters in the Khusru Bagh.
Oa the 1 1th of June General Neill
«nved in the Fort, and on the morn-
ing of the 12th opened fire from the
^t guns on the village of Daraganj,
Qd sent out a detachment of Fusiliers
lui Sikhs, who burned the village and
Rt possession of the bridge of boats.
^ the same day Major Stephenson,
^th 100 men of the Fusiliers, passed
into the Fort. Neill then scoured the
Bfidibouring villages, and produced
^m a terror in the city that the in-
lubitants deserted en masse, and the
tfanlvi fled to Cawnpore.
The Khmm Bagfa, close to the
Btation, and E. of it, is entered by an
old archway, nearly 60 ft. high and 46
ft deep, overerown with creepers. With-
in the well-kept garden are 3 square
mausoleums. That to the E. is the tomb
of Sultan Khusru, W. of it is a ceno-
taph of Nur Jehan, who was buried at
Lahore, and farther W. that of Sahibah
Begam, wife of Jehangir. They are
shiuled by some fine tamarind trees.
The mausoleum of Khusru has been
very handsome inside, and is orna-
mented with many Persian couplets,
and with paintings of trees and flowers,
which are now faded. The actual grave
is underground, but above is a cenotaph
of white marble, on a raised platform,
without inscription. To the rt. and 1.
two of Khusru*s sons wre buried. In
the gardens are the reservoirs for the
water supply of the town ; and beyond
the gardens is the native quarter, con-
taining some picturesque corners. It
is quite distinct from Canning Town,
the European quarter, which since the
time of tne Mutiny has been laid out
amongst a network of wide avenues.
All Saints' Church, near the rl^r. sta.,
is a large cruciform building in the
Romanesque style. Trinity Church is
on the way to the Fort, and a little
over 2 m. to the N.W. of it. This
church contains a tablet which is valu-
able as a historical record of those who
perished in the Mutiny, and gives a list
of their names. The Boman Catholic
Cathedral, in the Italian style, is W.
of the Alfred Park.
The Muir College, to the N. of the
Alfred Park, is a fine building in the
Saracenic style. It has its name from
Sir William Muir, formerly Lt-Governor
of the N.W. Provinces, and author of
the Life of Mahomet. Close by is
the Mayo Hally or Memorial, a fine
structure, with a tower 147 ft. high.
The main hall is used for balls and
amateur theatricals.
The Club is close to the Mayo Me-
morial, and S. of it, and is reached by
the Thomhill Road.
The Thomhill and Mayne Memorial.
— In the Park is also the Thomhill
Memorial, where are the Library and
Museum. In the Library there are
between 9000 and 10,000 books and
pamphlets.
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86
BOnnB 1. BOMBAY TO OALOUTTA
India
The Port was built by Akbar in
1575. It forms a striking object from
the river, but its " high towers haye
been cut down, and the stone ramparts
topped with turfed parapets, and fronted
with a sloping glacis. The changes
rendered necessary by modem military
exigencies have greatly detracted from
itspicturesquenessas a reHcof antiquity.
The principal gateway is capped with a
dome, and nas a wide vault underneath
it. It is a noble entrance. The walls
are from 20 to 25 ft. high. There is
a broad moat which can be filled with
water at any time. Within the en-
closure lie the officers* quarters, powder
magazine, and barracks, while the old
palace, greatly disfigured by the facade
built by the English, is now utilised
as an arsenal " (an order to enter must
be obtained from the Ordnance Com-
missary at Allahabad). The central
room IS what was the Audience Hall.
" It is supported by 8 rows of 8 columns,
and surrounded by a deep verandah of
double columns, with group of 4 at
the angles, all surmounted by bracket
capitals of the richest design. — J. F.
Asoka'B Pillar.— Close to the Palace
is the Asoka Pillar, which rises 49 ft.
5 in. above ground. It is of stone,
highly polished, and is of much interest
on account of its great antiquity. On
it are inscribed uie famous Edicts of
Asoka {circa 240 B.O.), and also a record
of Samudra Gupta's victories in the 2d
cent, and one by Jehangir, to commem-
orate his accession to the throne. There
are also minor inscriptions, beginning
almost from the Christian era. Ac-
cording to James Prinsep, the insertion
of some of these inscriptions shows
that it was overthrown, as it would
have been impossible to cut them while
the pillar was erect It was finally
set up in 1888 by the British.
The Akshai Bar or nnddoaying
banian tree. — Hiouen Thsang, the
Chinese Pilgrim of the 7th cent, in de-
scribing Prayag gives a circumstantial
description of ttie undecaying tree.
In the midst of the city, he says, stood
a Brahmanical temple, to which the
presentation of a single piece of money
procured as much merit as that of 1000
«ieces elsewhere. Before the principal
room of the temple wasatree surrounded
by the bones of pilgrims who had sacri-
ficed their lives there.
There are a few steps leading to
a dark underground passage which goes
85 ft straight to the E., then S. 30 ft.
to the tree. Beyond this Is a scroare
aperture which the Indians say leads
to Benares. There are some idols
ranged along the passage. In the centre
of the place is a lingam of Shiva, orer
which water is poured by pilgrins.
Cunningham in his Ancient Cieography
of India gives an interesting sketch
of the probable changes in the locality,
and concludes : '* I think there can be
little doubt that the famous tree here
described is the well-known Akshai
Bar or undecaying banian tree, which is
still an object of worship at Allahabad.
This tree is nowsituatea underground,
at one side of a pillared court (or crypt)
which would appear to have been open
formerly, and which is, I believe, the
remains of the temple described by
Hiouen Thsang. The temple is situated
inside the Foit E. of the Ellenborough
barracks, and due N. from the stone
pillars of Asoka and Samudra Gupta."
As no tree could live in such a situa-
tion, the stump is no doubt renewed
from time to time. Close by is a deep
octagonal well flanked by 2 vaulted
octagonal chambers.
It is worth while walking round
the ramparts for a view of the Con-
fluence of the (hinges, which is li
m. broad, flowing firom the N., with
the Jmnna, i m. broad, flowing
from the W. The Ganges is of a
muddy colour, the Jumna is bluer,
and they meet J of a m. beyond
the Fort The Mela, a religious
fair of great antiquity, to which
Allahabad probably owes its origin,
occurs every year about the month
of January, when it is said that the
pilgrims have numbered a million
persons. They come to bathe at th<
confluence of the sacred rivers, and
encamp on the sandy tongue of land
between them.
The Akbar Bund or embankmenj
runs from Dara Ganj N.E. of the fori
The Old and New Kotwalis are ^
S. of the Ehusm Bagh and the Pa
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ROUTB 1. BENARBB
39
fay Station. These are well built, and
ire worth looking at.
The Jail is at Naini, about 2 m. to
&e W. of the Jumna, after crossing
irer the bridge (see above).
509 m. Hinapur sta. An important
lell-builtcity. Pop, 84,130. Before the
opening of the £ast India Bailway it
was the largest mart on the Ganges for
piin and cotton ; much of the trade
18 now diverted elsewhere. It is still
•oted for carpets and rugs, dyed with
old Batire vegetable dyes, wnich are
rery permanent Two manufacturers
havft the privilege of displaying their
patterns on the r^way platform during
theitoppage of the train. There is a
haidsome river front with fine ghats.
Tin civil station is to the N.E. of the
^Im. Mosnil Sarai June. sta. (R.)
Ih)in this point the traveller should visits ^great quantities in the narrow lanes
lBEHAKB8(F<»rana8i-'Easi).:i^ Xfa^*
Cantonnieait sta. is 10 m. distant from*'
Xogul Sarai on the Oadh and Rohil-
eand ByL : at 7 m. the Ganges is crossed
by a steel bridge nearly } m. in length,
mere is a station called the Benares
fiver-station on its banks.
Benares (pop. 222,400), commonly
ealled Kcuivj the Hindus, has be^
the religious capital of India from be-
^nd historical times. The most gener-
ally accepted derivation of the name,
Tarajictsi is &om the streams Yarana
twdemBama- )and Asior Ashi(riiw^).
Ihe former, a river of some size on the
H. and E. of the city; the latter, a
rivulet now embraced within its area.
The site of Benares has often been
iiianged, but there is good groimd for
^posing that the first city was built
It Samath. The past history of this,
«ie of the most ancient cities in India,
• involved in obscurity. It is, how-
wer, certain that it was a most flourish-
ke and important place 6 centuries
inore the Christian era, for Sakya
koni, who was bom about 557 b.o.,
^ died in 478 b.c., came to it from
iiya to establish his religion, which
h would not have done had it not been
ften a great centre. Many of the most
llportant writers of the Hindus were
fct heard of at Benares. Of inter-
mediate events little is known, but we
learn from Husain Nizami's history
that in 1194 A.D. Jaychand, Ri^ah Ok
Benares, "whose army was countless as
the sand," was defeated and killed by
Eutb-ud-din, the general of Shahab-
ud-din Ghori. Kutb destroyed 1000
temples, and built mosques on their
sites. From that date Benares was
governed by the Moslems, and became
part of the province of Allahabad. It
IS due to the iconoclastic spirit of the
conquerors that hardly a single build-
ing can be found in Benares which
dates beyond the time of Akbar.
The ornamental Brass-Work which
is met with all over the world is a
spedalitd of Benares ; but the modem
^ork is far less carefully executed than
,the old, which is now difficult to pro-
cure. Small idols and other images in
brass and other materials are mi^e in
around the golden temple.
Shawls, silks, and embroideries
may also be purchased here.
Asi^he finest view of Benares is
obtained from the river Ganges, the
banks' of which are bordered by Ohats,
or flights of stotie steps, descending to
the water from the most famous bmld-
in^ in the dty, the traveller will do
well to spend some time in a . boat,
passing along the whole of the river
frontage, where, in the morning especi-
ally, he will see crowds of the people
coming down to bathe and drink the
water of the sacred river.
For those who are pressed for time, it
vn)l be sufficient to see the Observatory,
the Monkey Temple, and the whole
length of the Ghats, and disembark at
the Panchganga to see the Golden
Temple. The rest may be omitted.
Particulars regarding these Ghats and
the buildings near them are given be-
low. The river and native town are
nearly 2 m. from the
Cantonment, where a detachment of
Europeans and a native regiment are
stationed. Near the Hotel is St. Mary's
Church, with some old tombs, and the
Benares Gtovemment CoUeg^e, a building
in the Perpendicular style, called Queen's
college. It contains an Archnological
Museum.
To the N. of the College is an
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40
ROUTE 1. BOMBAT TO CAIXJUTTA
India
ancient monolith, 81^ ft hkh, with
an English inscription attached. It
wasfonndnearGhazi}>Tir. On the ohelisk
there is an inscription in the Gupta
character. To the E. of the grounds
are carved stones brought from Samath,
Bakariya Ennd, and other places.
Should the trayeller desire to go
first to the Raj Ghat, near the Railway
Bridge, by the Grand Trunk road, he will
pass the Naadeshwar Kothi, a residence
of the Maharaja of Benares. In this
house, Mr. Davis, Judge and Magistrate
of Benares, was attacked by tne fol-
lowers of Vazir *Ali, the deposed Nawab
of Oudh, who had just killed Mr.
Cherry, the British Resident, on the
14th of January 1799. Mr. Davis sent
his wife and two children on to the roof,
and, with a spear, placed himself at the
top of the staircase leading to it, where
he so successfully defended himself that
his assailants contented themselves with
destroying the furniture, and watching
their opportunity. Vazir 'Ali then
sent for materials to fire the house, but
Mr. Davis was rescued by the arrival
of a regiment of cavalry. The house
at present is lent by the Maharaja to
persons of rank who visit Benares.
The furniture and pictures seem to be
of Mr. Davis's time. The garden is
pretty.
The Church KiBaion House at Sigra
is IJ m. to the W. St. Paul's
Church is 1 m. due S. of the rly.
Stat., and was finished in 1847.
There is an Orphanage for girls and
boys attached, also Normal and Indus-
trial Schools for Women. Thence the
traveller can drive IJ m. to the Maha-
raja of Vijayanagram's Palace at
Belipur. Permission must be obtained
to see the house from the agent of the
Maharaja. There is a good view from
the terraced roof of the palace over the
Ganges, in the direction of AurangziVs
mosque. The Gk>lden Temple is seen
to the E.N.E. Close to the palace on
the W. are several Jain Temples.
Native Town.
The Durga Temple is sometimes
called the Monkey Temple by European,
from the myriads of monkeys which
inhabit the laige trees near it. Tlie
temple is about three-fifths of a mile 8.
of the y^jayanagram Palace. It is
stained rea with ochre, and it stands
in a quadrangle surrounded by high
walls. In front of the principal entrance
is the band room, where the priests
beat a large drum three times a day.
The central portion is supported by
twelve curiously carved pulars, on a
platform raised 4 ft. from the ground.
The doors are plated with brass, and
there are two bells. The temple and
the fine tank adjoining were constmoted
by the Rani of Natre in the last cen-
tury. As Durga is the terrific form
of Shiva's wife, and is said to delist
in destruction, bloody sacrifices are
offered to her, and goat's blood may be
seen sprinkled about.
From this temple the traveller may
proceed to the GHiats, embarking at
the Han Uandir Ghat, and rowing
slowly past in front of them. The
Ghats are here given in succession
from the W. proceeding down stream.
A detailed description follows the
list
Table op Ghats and Buildikos adjoining them
Names of the Qhkpi or flights of steps
trom S. to N.
1. Aihi Ghi^ or Asi Sangam Ghdj;
2. lAliMisrGhitorBachhr^Ghit.
8. Tulsi Qhit
4. R&o BOdb Gbit .
5. Akrol dh&t^
6. BhiviU Qh4t ....
7. Dan4i Gh4t.
- ifih
8. HanomAn Qhi^.
Names of the Bnildings adjacent to
each GhAf*
1. The Monastery of Tulsi Das, Jagannith
Tbmple to S. ; Dturgi Kond or Monkey
Temple to W.
8. Enm Chatr Temple.
4. Image of Bhim.
0. Eh&li Ma^l, Prince of Dihll's hooea.
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ttOOtk 1. BKltAltfiB
41
Nunes of the 6h4t» or flights of steps
Names of the Baildines adjacent to
each Ghil.
Dram S. to N.
». SmasUbiorllMhiaGhi^ . . .
9. The Cremation Ground.
». liUOhi^
U. K«d4r Gh4t
It ChankorOhankiOhit . . . .
11. KedimAth Temple.
12. Mansarovar, a tank smronnded by shrines.
». Chfttr Gh4( or lUji Ghi$
IS. The Ghatror Beat-honse of Bi^a Amfita
U. SomeshwGhAI^
BAo.
15. Puide GhA^
16. Kand QU%.
17. ChatrGhA^
18. Bengali Toli Gfait.
1». OoraPantGhi^
». ChaoaathlGhAI
n. Uni Ghi^
12. ftmahi Gh&l
20. Temple of the Goddess Chansathi.
21. Bnilt by the Bind of Oodeypur.
22. A fine bonding at head of stairs.
IS. itelya BAi'8 Oh^
U.ttUGM^
25. Bisashwamedh GhAt
26. The Observatory.
26. If ahalla Affast Knnd Hiest DOint for em-
36. lin Mnndir GhAt
ST.JBuimTsGhA^
st^^m ^■^•••^^••■w "■qvw^w m^^m^k%^ ^»^^^«vv ^|r^^»»»v a^^* ^'■■*
barking).
ULlirGhAt.
».UlitsGh&^
MLNipAlGhit
nHlBAinQm-
and Holy Well.
U, ]U«ikarapika QhA^
83. Temple of Tdrkeshwara, Well of Mani-
karanikA. Cremation Ground.
R Sfandia's Ghit . ....
S. RlifmkaGhit.
84. Broken Wall.
3«. Gapesh GhA^.
S7. Ghosla Gh&t.
S8.BiiiiGhi|
88. Temple ef B&m.
89. Connn^Mie of the DhantanAnA. Jarandn*
Ada, Eir^dnada, Saraswati, and Ganga,
the first four undei*ground. Aurang-
zib's Mosque, called H&dhu DAs ki
peorhi.
«. Dnisd or EAli Gh^t^
.-fl. Binda MAdhaya Ghit.
CGauGhAt
42. Stone figure of a cow.
a.TraoehaDaGba^(orPilpUlaTirth) . .
48. Houses of the Dihli ftmfly and Cemetery
tt.Tiliao41aGhi^
ofKakhdum^dhib
& Haitra Ghdii.
4k Piahlid Gh&(.
«. lUidGfail
47. Bridge of Boats.
The Aslii Ghat is one of the five cele-
kited places of pilgrimage in Benares.
Ike diannel of the Ashi, which here
Ills into the Gan^s, is dry during the
0^ weather. It is about 40 ft. broad.
Sie steps at this Ghat are a good deal
koken, and though one of the most
iMmd, it is certainly not one of the
kndsomeet Ghats. This is the nearest
fihat from which to cross to Bamnagar,
lla palace of the Maharaja of Benares.
Ihe next Ghat is the Bao^hraj or Lola
Mar OkaL Here the Jains have built
tao temples, which stand on the bank
flftheGiaiges. At the K. end of Tmlsi
fltet, whidi comes next, huge masses
d the bidlding have fallen, and lie on
the river's edge. At Bao Sahib Ohat
is a huge recumbent image of Bhim,
which is said to be annually washed
away and restored. The traveller will
now pass the Akrul Ghat and come to
the Shivala Ohat. Here stands the
fort in which Chait Sing resided. It
is a handsome building, and appears as
fresh as when first constructed. In
the upper imrt of the N. wall are five
small windows in a row, from one of
which Chait Sing made his escape,
when he fled from Warren Hastings in
1781. It is now called the Khali
Mahal, or ** empty palace," and be-
longs to Government. In this vast
building two companies of Sepoys and
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R0X7TB 1. BOMB AT ^TO CALCUTTA
India
three officers, who were sent by Hastings
to arrest Ohait Sing, were massacred by
a mob, owing to the soldiers having
come without their ammunition. When
fresh troops reached the palace, Ohait
Sing had fled. The Shivala Ghat is one
of tne finest and most crowded of the
Ghats. Part of it is assigned to the
religious ascetics called Gosains. The
next is the Dandi Ohat, and is devoted
to the staff- bearing ascetics called
Dandi Pants. It is also very large.
The Hannmaa Ohat, which comes next,
is large and generally crowded. At the
Sma&an Ohat, jrvres for cremation may
be seen being built, while bodies wrapt
up in white or red cloths lie with their
feet in the Ganges ready to be burned.
Passing the Lali Ghat, the Kedar
Ohat, which comes next, deserves at-
tention. According to the religious
books of the Hindus, the city is divided
into three great portions — Benares,
Eashi, from whence the popular name,
and Eedar. Eedar is a name of Shiva,
but it also signifies a mountain, and
especially a part of the Himalayan
mountains, of which Shiva is the lord,
hence called Eedamath. His temple,
or rather the top of it, may be seen
from the river at this Ghat. It is
much resorted to by the Bengali and
Tailangi ^p. of the city. The temple
is a spacious building, the centre of
which is supposed to be the place where
Eedamath dwells. At the four comers
are Shivalas, with cupolas. Here are
two brass figures, hidden by a cloth,
which is removed on payment of a fee.
The walls and pillars are painted red
or white. There are two large black
figures, which represent the dwarpals,
or janitors ; each has four hands holding
a trident, a flower, a club, and the fourth
empty, to push away intraders. At
the bottom of the Ghat is a well called
the Gauri Eund, or "weU of Gauri,"
Shiva's wife, the waters of which arc
said to be efficacious in curing fevers,
dysentery, etc. To the W. at 600 yds.
is the Mansarovar tank, round which
are 60 shrines. Manas or Mansarovar
is a fabulous tank in: the Himalayan
mountains, near Eailas, or Shiva's
heaven- Near the tank at Benares so
called IB a stone 4^ ft. high, and 16J ft.
in periphery, which is said to grow daily
to the extent of a sesamum seed. In a
street to the £. of the tank are figures of
Balkrishna, or the infant Erishna, and
Chatrbhig or Vishnu. Close by is a
Shivala, built by Bajah Man Sing, and
called Maneshwar. At the Chavki
Ohat is the place where serpents are
worshipped. Here, under a pippitl
tree, are many idols and figoies of
snakes. In a street close by, called
Eewal, is a figure of Durga with ten
arms.
The next Ghat, where the stairs
ascend into a large house or sarai built
by Amrit Rao for travellers, is the Chair
or Bajah Ohat. On leaving it tiie
traveller reaches the Semeshwar Ghat
so called from the adjacent temple of
the moon, Sorna being the *'moon, ' and
lahvjar "lord." At this Ghat every
kind of disease is supposed to be healed
Close by is an alley, in which is the
shrine of Barahan Devi, a female
.^Isculapius, who is worshipped in the
morning, and is supposed to cure
swelled hands and feet. From Chanki
to Pande Ghat the water is very dirty,
owing to a lar^e drain, which pours the
filth of the city into this part of the
Ganges. There is nothing particular
to be seen at the next four Ghats, but
the one after them, Chaiuathi Ohat,
is one of the most ancient at Benares.
Here, in a narrow lane, is a temple to
the goddess Chausathi. Chausathi
signifies "sixty-four." The Bana Ohat,
bmlt by the Maha Rana of Oodeypnr,
is not much frequented by Hindus.
It is the special place for tne bathing
of the Mohammedans. The Mnnahi
Ohat is the most picturesque of all the
Ghats at Benares. It was built by
Munshi Shri Dhar, Diwan of the B^ah
of Nagpur. Notice the building at the
top of the stair. Of the two next Ghats
nothine particular is to be said. Sitla
Ghat signifies "small-pox Ghat," over
which a Hindu goddess presides.
Dasashwamedh Ohat is one of th<
five celebrated places of pilgrimage i]
Benares. It is specially throngen
during eclipses. Here Brahma is sai^
to have offered in sacrifice ten hoisei
and to have made the place eqtud ii
merit to Allahabad.
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ROUTE 1. BXNABis
48
Tlie traveller may disembark here
md walk to the Man Mandir Ohat to
see the Observatory. This lofty build-
ing giyes a fine appearance to tne Ghat,
md commands a beautiful yiew of the
river. It was erected by Rsgah Jay-
sing, the founder of Jeypore in
Kajpatana, who succeeded the Rajas
of imber in 1693. Chosen by Mu-
hammad Shah to reform the calendar,
his astronomical observations were
fornmlated in tables, which corrected
those of De la Hire. He built five
observatories — at Delhi, Benares,
Miittra, Ujjain, and Jeypore. On
entering the Observatory the first in-
stnment seen is the Bhittiyantra, or
" «aral quadrant." It is a wall 11 ft.
h^ and 9 fL 1^ in. broad, in the plane
of the meridian ; by this are ascer-
tiined the sun's altitude and zenith
distance, and its greatest declination,
and hence the latitude. Then come two
Urge circles, one of stone and the other
of cement, and a stone square, used,
perhaps, for ascertaining the shadow of
the gnomon and the degrees of azimuth.
^ext the Yantrasamant will be seen,
the wall of which is 36 ft. long and 4^
ft broad, and is set in the plane of the
meridian. One end is 6 ft 4 J in. high,
tod the other 22 ft 3^ in., and it
slopes gradually up, so as to point to
the North Pole. By this, the distance
from the meridian, the declination of
my planet or star and of the sun, and
&e riffht ascension of a star are cal-
mlated. There are here a double
nural quadrant, an equinoctial circle
•f stone, and another Yantrasamant.
Cloee by is the Ghakrayantra, between
tiro walls, used for finding the de-
dination of a planet or star ; and near
it a Digansayantra, to find the degrees
•f azimuth of a planet or star.
At Bhairaya Ghat is a Shivala, as
Bhairava is only a terrific form of
Shiva. The idol here is said to be the
Kotwal, or magistrate of the city,
vho rides about on an invisible dog.
There is an image of a dog close to the
ilol, and the confectioners near sell
kiages of dogs made of sugar, which
tre offered to it A Brahman waves a
fiin of peacock's feathers over visitors
to protect them from eyil spirits, and
they in return must drop offerings
into the cocoa-nut shell he holds. The
idol ia of stone, with a face of silver,
and four hands. The temple was
built in 1825 by Eajah Rao of Poena.
There are several other idols, and
among them one of Sitla, goddess of
smallpox, the offerings at which are
taken by men of the gardener caste,
as they are the professional in-
oculators of India. At this place
dogs are daily fed by a Gosain, who
has servants under him, who make up
cakes of wheat, barley, or jowari flour.
On festivals the dogs have cakes of
wheaten flour, butter, and sugar. The
traveller will come next to the Mir
Ghat^ which was built by Rustam' Ali
Ehan, Nazim of Benares. It now be-
longs to the Maharaja of Benares.
From this the Nipalese Temple is seen,
a picturesque object, but disfigured by
indecent carvings. It does not re-
semble in the least the Hindu temples.
It is popularly called the Nipali
Kharpa. Up a flight of steps behind
this temple is a Wrestler's College.
The manager welcomes visitors, and
the performance of his pupils is curious
and interesting.
The famous Gtolden Temple (see
below) is between this Ghat and the
Jal Sain Ghat.
The Kayastli Ohat is of no im-
pori^ance. The ManifcaranlTra Ohat,
one of the five celebrated places of
Hindu pilgrimage in Benares, is con-
sidered the most sacred of all the
Ghats, and in November is visited
by multitudes of pilgrims. It is also
at the central point of the city, so
that if a line were drawn from it
to the W., it would divide Benares
into two portions N. and S. Just
above the flight of step is the Mani-
karamka Well, and between it and
the steps is the temple of Tarkesh-
wara. Below this temple the bodies
of Hindus are burned. The well has
its name from Mcmi, "a jewel," and
Kcmuby "the ear," Devi or Mahadeo
having dropped an ear-ring into it.
During the eclipse of the sun it
is visited by millions of pilgrims.
The well, or, more properly, tank, is
Digitized by VjOOQIC
44
ftOtJTB 1. BOMBAY IW) OAtiCtTTTA
India
85 ft sq., and stone steps lead down to
the water. Offerings of the Bel tree,
flowers, milk, sandaf-wood, sweetmeats,
and water are thrown into it ; and from
the putrefaction of these a stench arises
eautu to that which ascends from the
Well of Knowledge. It may he men-
tioned that at the Cremation Ground
helow the fire must he brought from
the house of a Domra, a man of very
low caste. The Domra who has the
monopoly of giving fire for cremation
is very wealthy, as fees are demanded
and given up to 1000 rs. At Tarkesh-
wara the idol is kept in a reservoir of
water. At this Ghat is the Charana-
paduka, a round slab projecting slightly
from the pavement, on which stands a
p^estal of stone : on its marble top are
2 imprints, said to have been made by
the feet of Vishnu. At the second
flight of steps of this Ghat is a temple
to Siddha Vinayak, or Ganesh. The
idol has three eyes, is painted red, and
has a silver scalp, and an elephant's
trunk covered with a bib, which
resembles a barber's cloth wrapped
about a man when he is about to be
shaved. At the feet of the image is
the figure of a rat, which is the Yahana
or ** vehicle " of Ganesh.
The traveller will now proceed to
Sindi&'s Qhat, which is curious from
the fact that its massive structure has
sunk several feet, and is still gradually
sinking. The temple on the left of the
S. turret is rent from top to bottom,
as are the stairs leading to the curtain,
between the turrets. It was built by
Baiza Bai, who constructed the colon-
nade round the Well of Knowledge,
but was left unfinished. Passing over
the next two Ghats, the traveller will
come to the Ohosla Ghat, which was
built by the Nagpur Raja, and is very
massive and h^dsome. Bam Ohat
comes next, and is much frequented
by Marathas. On the steps is a very
sacred temple.
The next is the Panchganga Ohat,
beneath which 5 rivers are supposed
to meet. Above it rises Aurangzib's
mosque, called in maps 'Hhe Minarets."
The view from the top of the minarets
(160 ft high) of the town beneath is
very striking.
Passing the Durga Ghat, the trardler
will come next to the Bindu Hadhara
Ohat, which was formerly dedicated to
Madhava or Krishna, whose temple
was rased by Aurangzib. The next
Ghat is the Gau Ohat, so called from
the number of cows that resort to it,
and also from the stone figure of a oem
there.
The Trilochaaa Ghat, also called tke
Pilpilla Tirth, will next be reached.
The pilgrim bathes in the Ganges at
this Ghat, and then proceeds to ^
Panchganga, and there bathes again.
There are two turrets at the TrilocnaBa
Ghat, and the water between them
possesses a special sanctity. Passine
the three next Ghats the traveller will
arrive at the Baj Ghat near the Bridge.
On the morning of the 1st May 1850 a
terrific explosion took place here, owing
to a magazine fleet blowing up, when
lying at this Ghat ALL the buildings
near were shattered. At the junction
of the Ganges and the Bama is a piece
of high ground which in the Mutiny
was strongly fortified, and has ever
since been called the Baj Ghat Fort
The Golden Temple is dedicated to
Bisheshwar, the Poison God, or Shiva —
a word compounded of Fish, "poison,"
and Ishioar, **god," because Shiva
swallowed the poison when the gods
and demons churned the ocean. The
temple is in a roofed quadrangle, above
which rises the tower. At each comer
is a dome, and at the S.E. a Shivala.
The temple is surrounded by very nar-
row crowded streets. Opposite the en-
trance, with its finely wrought brass
doors, is a shop where flowers are sold
for offerings. The visitor may enter the
shop and ascend to the story above,
which is on a level with the three
towers of the temple. The red conical ^
tower L is that of Mahadeo's temple ;
next to it is a gilt dome, and on the
rt is the gilt tower of Bisheshwar's
temple. The three are in a row in the
centre of the quadrangle, which they
1 These conical towers, almost oniTersal in
Hindu temples, are called Siknu or VimanaKs.
The origin of their peculiar form is unknown.
d by Google
BOUTB 1. BENARES
45
ilmort fill up. They are covered with
^Id plates, over plates of copper which
eoYertbestones. The expose of Riding
fas defrayed by Maharaja RaDJit Sing
of lihore. The temple of Bisheshwar
is 51 ft high. Between it and the
temple of Mfuiadeo hang nine bells from
I carred stone framewonc One of these,
md the most elegant, was presented by
the Maharaja of Nipal. The temple
of Mahadeo was built by Ahalya Bai,
klakrana of Indore. Outside the en-
cloore, and to the K. of it, is the Court
of lahadeo, where on a platform are a
niaber of lingams, and many small
idii are built into the wall. Tliey are
thflffht to have belonged to the old
tenle of Bisheshwar, wmch stood N.W.
of me present one, and was destroyed
bf Aurangzib. Remains of this temple
nstill to be seen, and form part of a
itosque which Aurangzib built, where
tiie old temple stood (see below).
In the quadrangle between the
nosQue and the Temple of Bishesh-
tar 18 the famous Juan Kap, " Well
rf Knowledge," where the Hindus
sappoee that Shiva resides. The quad-
langle itself is unpleasant, but in that
respect falls short of the well, which
is absolutely fetid, from the decaying
lowers thrown into it, notwithstanding
^t it has a grating over it, overspread
Tith a cloth ; for in this doth there
ire large gaps, and flowers are continu-
illy falling throueh them. The
Totaries also throw down water ; and
» they are not at all particular how
4ey throw it, they make the pave-
fieat one vast puddle, and besprinkle
fteir fellow-worshippers all over, so
that the clothes of many of them are
ii a dripping state. It is said that
then the old temple of Bisheshwar was
destroyed, a priest threw the idol into
this well, hence its uncommon sanctity.
the platform is thronged by men and
t(Hnen, and the horrible din of gones
Ad voices deafens the visitor. Crowds
rf fresh pilgrims arrive incessantly ;
Ad as numbers of cows are mixed up
^ the throng, and must be treated
flth great consideration, the jostling
^ something terrific. The roof and
•loimade of this quadrangle were built
ia 1828, by Baiza Bai, widow of Daulat
Rao Sindia. To the E. of the
colonnade is a stone Nandi, given by
the Raja of Nipal, 7 ft. high. On the
S. side of the colonnade is an iron
palisade, within which is a shrine
of white marble, and one of white
stone, and a carved stone support,
from which hangs a bell. Around are
many richly carved small temples,
particularly one to the S. of Bishesh-
war, and the gateways of the court-
yard are similarly carved, and small
gilded spires add to the picturesqueness
of the scene.
Auraogiib'B Moiqae, *' whose tall
and graceful minarets still form one
of the most prominent features in
every view of the city" (Fergusson),
is otherwise of no great magnificence.
This mosque, built to insult the Hindus
in one oi their most sacred localities,
has led to much animosity between
them and the Moslems. The Hindus
claim the courtyard between the mosque
and the wall, and will not allow the
Moslems to enter by the front of the
mosque, but only on one side. The
Moslems built a gateway in front of
the mosque, which still stands, but no
Moslem can enter by it, and the space
between the pillars has been built up.
A Fieiu religiosa tree overshadows the
gateway and the road, but the Hindus
will not suffer the Moslems to touch a
leaf of it. The British Government
acts as trustee of the mosque, and
allows certain monevs belonging to it
to be paid into the Treasury, and to be
periodically made over for the benefit
of the trust. During the period of
nearly two centuries since the mosque
was built not a stone has been loosened.
It was constructed on the site of a
magnificent temple of Madhava, or
Krishna. A small number of the
faithful assemble here on Fridays,
otherwise it is deserted.
The traveller can ascend the central
staircase, which leads to the roof, by t^o
most precipitous flights of steps. There
are ropes on either side. The view from
the minarets is picturesque.
Just outside the Golden Temple is
the Shrine of Sanichar, or Sham, the
planet Saturn or its regent The
Digitized by VjOOQIC
46
BOUTS 1. BOMBAY TO OAIiOUTTA
India
imagd is a round silyer disc, firom which
hangs an apron, or cloth, which
Erevents one remarking that it is a
ead without a hody. A garland
hangs from either ear, and a canopy is
spread above. A few steps beyond
ttiis is the Temple of Annapuma, a
goddess whose name is compounded
of-4w7ia, ** food, "and Pwma, * 'who is
filled." She is supposed to have express
orders from Bisneshwar to feed the
inhabitants of Benares. In front of
this temple are a number of beggars,
who pester all passers-by. It was
built about 1721 by the Feshwa of
that date, Baji Bao. There are four
shrines in this temple dedicated to the
Sun, Ganesh, Gaun Shankar, and the
monkey-god Hanuman. Near this is
the temple of Sakshi Vinay&k, the
witnessing deity. It was built in 1770
by a Maratha, whose name is not-
recorded. Here pilgrims, afterfinishing
the Panch Kosi, or five kos or 10 m.
circuit round Benares, must get a
certificate of having done so, otherwise
their labour goes for nothing. S. of the
temple to Shani is that of Bhokaresh-
war, ShuJcar being the planet Venus
or its regent, and lahwwr <'god."
Here prayers are made for han£ome
sons. Between the Temple of Anna-
puma, and that of Sakshi v inayak is a
strange figure of Gaaeeh, squatting on
a planorm raised a little above the path.
This ugly object is red, with alver
hands, feet, ears, and elephant's
trunk*
After viewing too closely the vul^
aspect of Hindu worship, and suffering
from the smells, jostlings, and noises
of the Golden Temple, it will be a re-
lief to visit the Canniohael Library,
which was built by public subscrip-
tion.
About 1 m. N. from this is the
Town Hall, a modem building of red
stone.
Banmagar and Samath.
Before visiting Banmagar, the resi-
4ence of the Maharaja of Benares,
which is on the right bank of the
Gkmges, it will be well to ask permis«
sion to visit the palace. Having ob-
tained this, the traveller will drive post
the Durga Eund Temple to what is
called the Banmagar Ghat on the W.
bank of the Ganges, opposite to a Ghit
of the same name on the £. bank,
which is overlooked by the palaoe.
There is a fine view from the rooms
which look on the river.
At 1 m. to the N.E. of the pslace is a
beautiful tank, with flights of stone
steps to the water's edge, and a stone
casm^ all round. To the N. of the
tank is a tem^e called Sumer Mandir.
Samath.— The site of old Benares,
where Buddha taught To reach it
cross the Bama Bridge and pass Warren
Hastings's sun-dial on £., proceed slong
the Ghazipur Eoad to the third mile-
stone, and then turn off to the left.
ShorUy after turning, two towers, one
of which stands on a hill, come in view.
In Fergusson's Hist, of Arch, is a view
of this tower, or Tope, and also an
excellent account of it ; with a repre-
sentation of the panelling. " The best
known as well as the best preserved of
the Bengal topes, is that at Samath, near
Benares. It was carefully explored by
General Cunningham in 1835-36, and
found to be a stupa— viz. containing
no relics, but erected to mark some
spot sanctified by the presence of Bud-
dna, or bv some act of his during his
long residence there. It is situated in
the Deer Park, where he took up his
residence, with his five disciples, when
he first removed from Gaya on attaining
Buddhahood, and commencing his mis-
sion as a teacher. What act it com-
memorates we shall probably never
know, as there are several mounds in
the neighbourhood, and the descriptions
of the Chinese pilgrims are not suffi-
ciently precise to enable us now to dis-
criminate between them."^
The building consists of a stone base-
ment 93 ft in diameter, and solidly
built, the stones being clamped together
with iron to the height of 43 ft Above
that it is in brickwork, rising to a
height of 110 ft above the surrotmd-
ing rains, and 128 ft above the plain.
Externally the lower part is relieved
1 FergoBsoa's IndUm ArtMieOur^
d by Google
BOUTE 1. BUZAR — ABRAH
47
] y d^t proiectmg fietces, each 21 ft 6
JL Wide, and 15 ft. apart In each is
I small niche, intended apparently to
•ntain a seated figure of Buddha, and
Mow them, encircling the monument,
iia Imd of sculptured ornament of the
■ost exquisite beauty. The central
part consists of geometric ^ttems of
peai intricacy, but combined with
ingolar skill ; and aboye and below
Ibluge equally^ well designed, and so
nu^ resembling that carved by Hindu
irtiits on the earliest Mohammedan
moaqoes at Ajmere and Delhi, as to
nab us fisel sure that they cannot be
feiT distant in date.
^In his excavations, Creneral Gun-
niii^am found, buried in the solid
mamry, at the depth of lOJ ft. from
thi summit, a large stone, on which
m engraved the usual Buddhist for-
aala: 'Ye dharmma hetu, ' etc., in char-
ictere belonging to the 7th century."
Dr. Fergusson writes that he is " inclined
to adopt the tradition preserved by
Captain Wilford, to the enect that the
Sarnath monument was erected bv the
Kms of Mohi Pala, and destroyed (in-
terrupted) by the Mohammedans in
1017 A.D., before its completion. The
ibrm of the monument, the character
«f its sculptured ornaments, the un-
finished condition in which it is left,
md indeed the whole circumstances of
tke case," he continues, ''render this
ktd so much the most probable, that I
M inclined to adopt it almost without
bsitation."
Sarnath was visited by the Chinese
Buddhist pilgrims, Fa-Hian in 399 A.D.,
ltd Hioaen Thsang in 629-645 A.D.
Die former says : ** At 10 li (2 m.) to
4e N.W- of Benares is the temple,
itoated in the Deer Park of the Im-
bortal. " Hioaen Thsang states that to
4e N.E. of Benares was a stupa, built
3^ Asoka, 100 ft. high, and opposite to
It a stone column "of blue colour,
kight as a mirror." He says the
ionastery of the Deer Park was divided
tto eight parts, and was surrounded
^ a wall, within which were balus-
tades, two-storied palaces, and a Vi-
kn, 200 ft. high, surmounted by an
ia-molo or mango in embossed gold.
There were 100 rows of niches round
the stupa of bric^ each holding a
statue of Buddha in embossed gold.
To the S. W. of the vihara was a stone
stupa raised by Asoka, having in front
a column 70 ft high, on the spot where
Buddha delivered his first discourse.
W. of the monasteiT was a tank in
which Buddha bathed, to the W. of that
another where he washed his monk's
water-pot, and to the N. a third where
he wasned his garments. Close to the
tanks was a stupa, then another, and
then in the midst of a forest a third.
To the S, W. of the monastery at J a m.
was a stupa, 800 ft high, resplendent
with lewels and surmounted by an
arrow. The Dhamek Stupa, the one
now existing, stands on rising ground,
and has to the W. a Jain temple sur-
rounded by an enclosure. About 40
ft from the K end there is a torso of
Buddha, with the Brahmanical Thread.
There are also a few carved stones. To
the W. are acres of mounds and exca-
vations, showing that there were exten-
sive buildings m that direction. At
370 ft. to the W. by S. of the Dhamek
Stupa, is a round well 50 ft in diameter,
which the guide calls the Bani's bath.
It is 15 ft. deep, and a torso of Buddha
lies in it
A little to the N. of the well is Jagat
Sing's Stupa, so called by Cunning-
ham, because Babu Jagat Sing, Diwan
of Chait Sing, excavated it to get
bricks to build Jagatganj. The other
tower stands on a very steep mound
about 100 ft. high. The building is
octagonal, and has an Arabic inscrip-
tion on the N. side, and a well down
the centre.
The objects of interest in the Canton-
ment are the Mint, where the Europeans
and other Christians assembled when
the Mutiny broke out in 1867, the
yellow bungaloWf where Warren Hast-
ings lived, and the sun-dial he erected.
There is a large jail, and the necessary
offices of a large civil station.]
983 m. Buxar sta. (R.), D.B., Hotel.
1082 m. Arrah sta., D.K The special
interest that attaches to this spot is ic
connection with an incident of the
Mutiny. After some preliminarr
Digitized byLjOOQlC
48
KOUTB 1. BOMBAY TO CALCUTTA
India
troubles, the Sepoys at JXnapur
mutmied on the 24th July. They then
marched to Arrah, where they released
the prisoners in the jail, plundered the
treasury, and, but for the gallant re-
sistance offered, would have destroyed
all the Christians in the place. A
serious misfortune added enormously
to the difficulties of the situation. A
relieving party of about 230 Europeans
from Dinapur fell into an ambuscade
and were nearly annihilated. In the
meantime the little party of English
at Arrah were holding out against tre-
mendous odds. They were surrounded
by 2000 Sepoys, and a multitude of
armed insurgents, perhaps four times
that number. There were about 12
Englishmen and 50 Sikhs.
On the 27th of July the Dinapur
mutinous Sepoys attacked the little
garrison under Vicars Boyle, the Civil
Engineer, and Hereward Wake, but
were met with such a heavy fire that
they broke into groups and sheltered
themselves by trees. The enemy had
recourse to various devices for driving
the English out, but in vain. A week
thus passed, but when the second
Sunday came round Major Vincent
Eyre, who had fought his way through
the enemy's lines, arrived with 4 guns,
60 English gunners, and about 260 in-
fantry, and after a very critical engage-
ment against overwhelming numoers,
charged home, and the enemy broke
and led in confusion.
The house they defended stands in
the Judge's Compound. It is nearly a
sq., and has two stories, with a veran-
dah on three sides, supported by arches
which the besieged filled up with,
sand -bags. The lower story is a
little over 10 ft. high, and was held by
50 Sikh soldiers. The garrison dug a
well in the house, and that was all the
water they had.
At about i m. from the Judge's
house is St. Saviaur^a Cfmreh, a venr
small but neat building. In this churcn
and in a railed enclosure near the Col-
lector's Court-house are some interest-
ing monuments and tombs of those
who fell in this gallant defence and
rescue.
Arrah is on a branch of the San
Ganalf the great irrigation -work of
South Behar. The Granges is crossed at
1062 m. Bankiirarjunc. sta.,:Oc (R-),
D.B., the Civil Station of the district,
forms the western extremity of the city
of Patna (sta. 6 m. farther £.) (170,000
inhab.}, which covers 10 sq. m., aid
with its suburbs extends 9 m. along
the S. bank of the Gkinges, but cob-
tains nothing of much interest to ^e
traveller, except a building called l^e
Gtolah, which was built for a granary
in 1783, but has never been used for
that purpose. It is 426 ft. round at
the base, built of masonry, with walk
12 ft. 2 in. in thickness, the interior
diameter being 109 ft. It is about 90
ft high, and might contain 137,000
tons. Inside there is a most wonderful
echo, the best place to hear which is in
the middle of the building. As a
whispering galler^r there is perhaps
no such building in the world. The
faintest whisper at one end is heard
most distinctly at the other. As a
curiosity, if for no other reason, the
building should be ke^t up. The
ascent to the top is outside, by steps.
At the top is a platform 10 ft. 9 m.
round, which has a stone placed in the
centre. This stone can be lifted and
access obtained to the interior. It is
said that Jung Bahadur of Nipal rode
a pony up the steps outside to the top
Patna is a great centre for the Indigo
TnUle. The Basaan are very exten-
sive and well worth a visit. The
Government Opiam Faetory is the
largest in India.
Bankipur is the junction for the
Tirhoot State Ely., N. ; the Bengal and
N. W. Rly., leading to Oudh ; and the
Patna Gaya Rly. S.
[Expedition to Gkiya.
67 m. from Bankipur.
This joumev will not repay the ordin-
ary traveller, but to the archffiologist or
the student of Buddhism it will be
full of interest. The district of Gaya
contains many places of great aancti^.
The rocky hills which here run oat far
into the plains of the Ganges Valley
teem with associations of the religion of
Buddhism many of which have been
d by Google
B0X7TB 1. IBZPEDITION TO GATA
49
firerted to new objects by modem
aperstition. The Brahmans stamped
oit the Buddhist faith, bat they nave
utilised its local traditions to their own
infit At the present day the chief
pilgTims to the temple and sacred tree
atBoddh Gaya are devout Marathas,
vko oome to pray for the' souls of their
ucestors in purgatory. The pilgrim,
before leaving his home, must first walk
five thnes round his native village,
oiling upon the souls of his ancestors
to accompany him on his journey.
Arriied at Graya, he is forthwith placed
in charge of a special Brahman guide.
Ql|a is a city of 80,000 inhab. At
lm.from the station is the D.B. and,
a Bhvt way to the W. of it, the Col-
lectt's office.
ik>ut 100 yds. N. of the cemetery,
3 B. £. of the station, is a Temple,
sacred to Mahadeo, Ram, Lakshman,
Osnesh, and Hanuman, built by Bani
lodrajit, of Tikari, at a very consider-
able cost. Thence to the temple of
Biihn Pad, in Old Gaya, is 1) m. It is
difficult to approach the temple except
on foot, owing to the extreme narrow-
0618 of the streets. Beyond this is the
Mstep of VisHma, or the Bishn Pad,
viich is 13 in. long and 6 in. broad.
it is of silver, and is enclosed in a
Yttel of silver inserted into the pave-
QB&t, whichhasa diameter of 4 ft. Here
Inrer and other offeriugs are made.
laddh Ckiya is 7 m. S. of the city.
It the first 5 m. the road is good, but
Hhaded by trees. Pass the prison,
4; after 5 m. turn L and go for 2
11 along a country road. The Temple
^Buddh Oaya is of very great anti-
aoounds with
fity (643 B.O.), and
Wtions of the life of Buddha.
It
I built in a hollow, which diminishes
^apparent height. It is also shut in
^mall houses. The figure of Buddha,
*M>rdiiiff to Hiouen Thsang, was of
Muned paste, and was destroyed cen-
iies 9m. Other figures of plaster
Kb saraequently made aud also de-
J^iyed. To the 1. is the place where
ttl founder of the present College of
its, about 250 years ago, performed
s, that is, sat surrounded by
8, with the sun overhead. The
were preserved, and a hollow
\Indid\
pillar, with a diameter of 4^ ft; and
4 ft high, rising from a sq. base was
built over them. Nearly in line with
it are three masonry tombs of Mahants.
It is known that Asoka surrounded
the temple with a stone railing. As
much of this railing as could be found
has been restored to the position which
it is supposed to have occupied. The
railing has four bars of stone, sup-
ported by pillars at intervals of 8 ft.
The top rau is ornamented with carv-
ings of mermaids, or females with the
taus of fish, inserting their arms into
the mouths of Makarahs, that is, im
aginary crocodiles, with large ears like
those of elephants, and long hind legs.
Below this top bar are three others,
also of stone, ornamented with carv-
ings of lotus flowers. The pillars are
adorned with carvings of various groups,
such as a woman and child, a man, with
a woman who has the head of a horse,
Centaurs, and so on. Mr. Fergusson
pronounced this to be ' * the most ancient
sculptured monument in India." The
plinth of the temple is 26J ft high,
and at the top of it is a clear space IS
ft. broad, which allowed a passage round
the tower, and also gave access to a
chamber in it. At each corner of the
platform by which the passage round
the tower was effected was a small
temple, and below, outside Asoka's
rail, were many subordinate temples.
Behind the temple, on a raised platform,
is the sacred Bo tree (a pipul or Ficus
religioaa) under which Buddha sat.
Mr. J. C. Oman says : ** If it were
possible to ascertain by any means what
particular spot on earth is the most
sacred in the opinion of mankind,
there is every reason to think that the
majority of votes would be given in
favour of Buddh Gaya. Defaced by
time and the hand of man, transformed
a good deal through well-meant restore^
tions, the celebrated temple at Bud4h
Gaya, even in its modem disguised
condition, with its 19th-century stucco
about it, and its brand new gilt finial,
is an imposing structure, about 170 f^
high and 50 ft. wide at its base. All
things considered, it has certainly lasted
remarkably well, the material of which
it is constructed beinff only well-burnt
Digitized by VjOOQ B
50
fiOUTB 1. BOHBAT TO OALOUTTA
Tndtc
brick cemented with mud. Stone has
been need <mly in the door frames and
flooring. The buildini; is plastered
with lime-mortar. It is bnilt in the
form of a p3rramid of nine stories, em-
bellished on the outer side with niches
and mouldings. Facing the rising sun
is the entrance doorway, and above it,
at an elevation greater than the roof of
the porch which once adorned the
temple, there is a triangular opening
to admit the morning glory to fall upon
the image in the sanctuary."
A Burmese inscription records its
restoration in ld06-1309. Aeain in
1877 permission was granted them to
restore the temple, but Rajendralala
Mitra, deputed by the Lieutenant-
Governor of Bengal to inspect their
work, states that **the Burmese carried
on demolitions and excavations which
in a manner swept away most of the
old landmarks." The remains of the
vaulted gateway in front of the temple
were completely demolished^ and the
place cleared out and levelled. The
stone pavUion over the Buddha Fad
was dismantled, and its materials cast
aside on a rubbish mound at a distance.
The granite plinth beside it was re-
moved. The drain-pipe and gargoyle
which marked the level of the granite
|»avement were destroyed. The founda-
tions of the old buildings noticed by
Hiouen Thsang were excavated for bricks
and filled with rubbish. The revetment
wall round the sacred tree had been
rebuilt on a different foundation on the
W. The plaster ornaments on the
interior facing of the sanctuary were
knocked off, and the facing was covered
with plain stucco, and an area of 218
ft to 250 ft. was levelled and sur-
rounded by a new wall. For further
description of the temple, refer to Raj-
endralalaMitra's Buddh Gaya, Calcutta,
1878; and Cunningham's Arch, Surv.
vol. iii. ; and Sir ]^win Arnold's most
delightful chapter in India Revisited,
1886, " The Land of the Light of Asia."
To the N.W. is a small but very
Micient temple, in which is a figure of
Buddha standing. The doorway is
finely carved.]
lllSm.Mokanwhjuncsta.(R.) Line
to the N. joining the Tirhoot Stat4
Bailway. To the K tiie loon line o*
the East Indian Railway, whicli foUowi
the banks of the Ganges, rejoins th<
direct route at Ehana junc, near Burd
wan.
262 m. Lnokeeseni junc. tta
[Here a loop line of the E. I. Sly
branches E. along the banks of th
Ganges via Jamalpur, Sa.heb£^ii]i|^
and Tiapahar to Ehana (see below]
where it rejoins the main line.]
1217 m. Madhupar junc sta. (R.
of the Giridih Line.
[Excanioa to Parasnath
Parasnath Mountain.— From Mac
hupur sta. to Oiridih sta. 24 m.. b
rail, from the latter place to the foi
of mountain 18 m. by good roac
Bearers at Madhuband for ti
ascent (2| hrs.) The f^rtsman an
the lover of mountain scenery wi
e^joy a visit to this far-fiuned mountai
and place of pilgrimage. The num^
ous temples, though most pictnresqti
are of no great antiquity. It is 44^
ft. above sea-level, and is the Eastei
metropolis of Jain worsh^). Aoc<»dii
to tradition, Parasnath, who waa t]
23d Tirthankar of the Jains, was boi
at Benares, lived 300 years, and w
buried on this mountain.
Madhuband, 1280 ft., where t)
bearers are procured, is at the N. si^
of the mountain. Here is a Jain c<^
vent on a tableland. In a clearance,
the forest, **the appearance of t
snow-white domes and bannerets of 1
temple, through the fine trees by whJ
it is surrounded, is very beautira
The ascent of the mountain is uf
pathway worn by the feet of innnntH
able pilgrims from all parts of In<
10,000 still visit the place annua
The path leads through woods *«
large clumps of bamboo over slaty m
of gneiss, much inclined and slop
away from the mountain. The y
from a ridge 500 ft above the vil]
is superb. Ascending higher, the |
traverses a thick forest of «iZ ( VaU
or Shxyrea, rohu8ta\ and other t
spanned with cables of Bauhinia sti
Digitized byLjOOQlC
nOTTlIB 1. BXOtTBStON 90 PARASNATH
51
it dOOO ft the vegetation becomes
aore luxuriant, and the conical hills
i tlw white ants disappear. At 3500
t tlie yegetation again changes, the
tees becoming gnarled and scattered.
Ihe traveUer emerges from the forest
4 tie foot of a great ridce of rocky
jeab, stretching E. and W . for 3 or 4
1. The saddle of the crest (4230 ft.)
i mrked by a small temple, one of
lai^ which occupy various promi-
ienees of the ridge. The view is beauti-
M. To the N. are ranges of low wooded
lill^and the Barakah and Aji rivers.
To the S. is a flatter country, with
low ranges and the Damodar river.
Tbtsituation of the principal temple
is ^ fine, below the saddle in a hollow
^ the S., surrounded by groves of
fun and Fieus indica. It contains
but the sculptui^ed feet of Paras-
^ and some marble cross-legged
jpues of Baddha, with crisp hair, and
• Brahmanical Cord. Bears are
•nnerous round this spot A conval-
•ent depot for European soldiers was
•toblished in 1858, but was abandoned,
•d the officers* quarters are now
^fflisedasD.B.]
1262 ni. Sitaraxupur junc. sta. for
war, 5nL
j 1268 m. AsenBOl junc. sta. of the
fgal and Nagpur Railway (see
».3).
1279 m. Banigunj sta., 3^ on the E.
edge of the very extensive coal-fields of
Bengal, which stretch out 384 m. to the
W., and extend under the bed of the
Damodar. The place was formerly the
property of the Kaja of Burdwan, hence
the name. More than 30 species of
fossil plants, chiefly ferns, have been
found m the coal, of similar species to
those in the Yorkshire and Australian
coal. The mines aflbrd regular employ-
ment to a large number of men and
women, chiefly of the Beauri tribe. A
vast number of boatmen on the Damo-
dar river are employed in carrying coal
to Calcutta. The coal is piled on the
banks of the river, and can be carried
down only while the Damodar is in
flood. The mines are said to have been
accidentally discovered in 1820 by Mr
Jones, the architect of Bishop's College
at Calcutta. The hills of Chatna.
Bihari Nath, and Pachete look well
from Ranigunj.
1325 m. Khana junc. sta. for the
loop line (see p. 264).
1334 m. Burdwan sta. (R.)
1376 m. Hooghly junc. sta. for the
Eastern Bengal Railway by the fine
Bridge over the Hooghly (fftigli) river.
1379 m. Chandemagore and Seram-
pore stations (see Excursion from
Calcutta, p. 64).
1400 m. Calcntta,
minus (see next page).
Howrah ter-
d by Google
5f
OALOUTTA OITX
CALCUTTA CITY*
CONTENTS.
PAQB
Arsenal 58
Asiatic Society 67
Belvedere (Lt -Governor's Palace) . . 60
Bishop's College 59
Brahma Som^j 60
Calcutta University Senate House . 66
Cathedrals—
St. Paul's 58
Roman Catholic 60
Churches-
Armenian 60
Greek 60
Old Mission 59
St. Andrew's or Scotch Kirk . . 60
St. John's (Old Cathedral) ... 59
St Thomas's Roman Caraolic . 60
Clubs (see Index and Directory).
Custom House 54
Dalhousie Institate 67
Engineering (Civil) College ... 62
Esplanade, or Maidan .... 64
Ports-
William 67
Old Port 68
Garden Beach 60
Gardens —
Botanical • • • •
Eden . . • •
Government House .
HighCourt ....
Hospitals
Hotels (see Index and Directory), i
Leg^islative Council Office . '
Maidan or Esplanade
Metcalfe Half . . . . |
Military Prison . . . i
Mint f
Missions J
Mosque of Prince Ghulam Muhaia
Museums— Economical . . i
Indian J
Palaces— King of Ondh's . . J
Lt -Governor's (Belvedere) ,
Post Office ....
Public Buildings .
Bace-course ...
Secretariat
Statues .....
Telegraph Office
Town Hall ...
2*he Approach from the Sea, Hooghly
Mver, cmd Landing-place at Calcutta.
—At Pilot's Ridge during the S.W.
monsoon, that is from the 15th of
March till the 16th of September, there
is a floating Light -vessel, which is a
?[iide to vessels making the Hooghly
ilot Station. At this point the
traveller enters its waters. The Cal-
cutta Pilots are better paid, better
educated, and occupy a higher position
than others of their profession. The
Hooghly is a most dangerous and diffi-
cult river to navigate. There is in the
first place the dread of cyclones, which
may take place in any month except
February, when they are unknown.
The worst months are May and Octo-
ber. In some of these cyclones a storm
wave has covered the adjacent shores,
and many thousands of persons have
perished. The cyclone of 1874 covered
Sau^ Island with Water. But in
addition to the possible danger of
storms, there is the normal one of
shoals and tides. New shoals are con-
tinually forming, and nothing but a
daily experience of the rive^
a pilot to tf^e a vessel
There is, for instance, the m
ous shoal called the "James
The real origin of the name
the wreck of a vessel called
James and Mary on that hi
It appears first under this
chart dated 1711. Upon
many other wrecks have t
The Hooghly cannot be i
night, nor until the tide i
be ascended. It is usual, i
anchor near Saugar Islan
casion serves.
Saugar Island^Agath^
100,000 to 200,000 pilgril
parts of India, but princ
the Bengal districts, takes ]
early part of January, the
great Bathing Festival of B<
bdthing ceremony as a ru
three davs, though the fair
couple or days longer. Th(
fair is a sandbank on the h»
the island, facing the surf, jiut
d by Google
]
. the locaUty by the n7^
(from C«lctttt».
jetnes. jror umamff irom vm sanHn
one of the Ghats the fee is 2 annas
each person, and 4 annas for luggag<
Digitized
byGoogk
\
.M.^ MtU UVUl-
xa.u iH a sanabank on the S. siia]
^ Botbmg but a I the island, facing the snrf, jnst tc
THB AFP&OAOH TO OALOUTTA
53
T. of the junction of Pagoda Creek
with the bay. An offering is made to
&e sea of cocoa-nuts, fruits, or flowers,
md especially of five gems — a pearl,
diamond, an emerald, a topaz, and a
mece of coral worth a rupee or two.
lormerly children used to be cast into
the aea.. After bathing, the pilgrims
JO to the spot where the Pholu emblem
of Eipila Muni is set up.
Sport is abundant Deer, wild boar,
and a great varietv of sea-birds are
found throughout the year.
Tkers are to be met with in the
jun^. The best way to get about is
m a boat, sportsmen landing when
thejso desire for shooting, and return-
ing it night In this way good sport
ma^be had ; but without previous ex-
penence too much must not be expected.
He lighthouse, of iron, 76 ft high,
was commenced in 1808. It is at
JGddleton Point, at the 3.W. end of
fte island, 570 yds. from low -water
nark.
I The mouth of the Hooghly is about
|90 m. from Calcutta.
At 40 m.t is the town of Kalpi, D.B.,
n the rt ^oing up stream.
^ It contains a large market-place for
sale of rice grown in the interior,
I there is a ro^ from it to Calcutta.
At 30 m.,t as the crow flies, is Dia-
lond Harbour, marked by a large
imber of trees, where the E. I. Com-
Biy's ships used to anchor. There is
Custom House here, and the officers
ird ships proceeding U]^ the river.
\j, to Calcutta, 3 or 4 trains daily, in
to 4 hrs. At 28 m.t is the Rupnarayan
iw, which flows into the Hooghly
UheL
^ in.+ Tamluk is passed 1. (^p.
HO). A very famous city in ancient
les, and a maritime port of the
ddhists, where the Chinese pilgrim
iHian embarked for Ceylon in the
(inning of the 5th cent a.d. Hiouen
lang 250 years later speaks of it as
important Buddhist harbour. It
low a long way from the ocean, but
thed by the tide. There is a Temple
known in the locality by the name
t From C«lcatt«.
of Dargah Bhama or Bhenna. It was
ori^aJly a Buddhist temple. The
shnne is surrounded by a cunous triple
walL The foundation of the place con-
sists of large logs covered with bricks
and stones to a height of 80 ft covering
the whole area.
The Ikimodar river enters the
Hooghly District from Bordwan, and
flows past the villages of Ampta £. and
Baghnan W. to Mahishrakha Ghat,
where it is crossed by the Ulubaria
Midnapur Canal, and flows into the
Hooghly opposite Fulta. It is navi-
gable as far as Ampta, which is 25 m.
from its mouth, by boats of from 10 to
20 tons. By this river, large quantities
of coal are brought from the Raniguig
mines.
Fulta is a large villa^ just opposite
the mouth of the Damodar. It is the site
of a Dutch factory, and is the place to
which the English ships sailed on the
capture of Calcutta by Sirajudaulah.
At 15 m. S.t Ulubaria, a small town
on the L of tiie Hooghly, is passed.
Here the main road from Calcutta to
the temple of Jagannath at Pun crosses
the Hooghly, and here begins the Mid-
napur High-Level Canal. A few m. If.
of this on the rt are the extensive Akra
brick-fields belonging to Government.
At 7 m.t the first view of the city
is obtained, and then Garden Beach
is passed rt ; the Botanical Gkirdens
and Bishop's (now Civil Engineering)
College on the 1. The river is now
crowded with ships at anchor, many
rows deep, all the way up to the
Landiuff-place, Tfie view is very strik-
ing, and the forest of masts, the plain
of the Esplanade, the Fort and the
fine buildings in the background, all
give the idea of a great commercial
capital.
Arrival at CALOUTTA. a^^
Every vessel that arrives at Calcutta
must be berthed by the Harbour-master
either in the new Docks or at the
jetties. For landing from the stream at
one of the Ghats the fee is 2 annas for
each person, and 4 annas for luggage.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
54
CALCUTTA CITY
Iniia
Frinsep's Ohai, nowsome distance in-
land since the reclamation of the fore-
shore bythe excavation of the new docks,
is marked by a pavilion of stone, sup-
ported by pillars, and inscribed " James
Prinsep." The passenger must take with
him a pass from the Custom • House
officer, without which he may not put his
luggage into a carriage. From the jetty
to tihe street is about 100 yds., through
the enclosure of the Custom House.
The Population of the city and
suburbs was 840,000 in 1891.
The Esplanade, or Haidan (plain), is
a magnificent open space of about 1^ m.
diameter.
Ochterlony Monvmeni. — Not far from
Government House, in the centre of
the Esplanade, is a colvmm, 165 ft. hi^h
to Sir David Ochterlony, Resident in
Malwa and Rajputana in 1823. It has
two galleries at top, from which a fine
view over Calcutta is obtained. W. of
it are several statues.
Stattces, — First comes the bronze
equestrian statue of Lord ffardinge. He
is bareheaded, with his sheathed sword
by his side. It is a good likeness, and
well executed. W. of this statue is
that of Lord Latorence, standing bare-
headed. To the E. of Lord Hardinge's
statue is an equestrian bronze statue of
£Iarl of Mayo, On the Chowringhee
Road side is the equestrian statue of
Sir James OiUram, by Foley, R.A. He
is represented bareheaded, with a drawn
sword in his right hand. His horse is
violently reined in. Beneath is an in-
scription. There are statues of Lord
Dvfferin and Lord Roberta on either
side of "the red road" now used for
the evening drive.
At the N.W. comer of the Esplanade,
lining the Strand, are the Eden
Gardens, for which Calcutta is indebted
to the Misses Eden, Lord Auckland's
sisters ; here a band plays every even-
ing. On the S. side is a fine marble
statue to Captain Sir William Peel,
of H.M.S. Shannon^ Commander of the
Kaval Brigade in the Indian Mutiny.
On the N. side of the Gardens is the
statue of Lord Auckland,
Standing picturesquely by the water-
^de is a Burmese Pagoda, brought from
Prome and set up in 1856. Close to
the Gardens is the Ground of the Cal-
cutta Cricket Club. There is a good
drive along the river side from the
Gardens past Fort- William to Behe-
dere, the Lieut. -Governor's resideaee,
and another E. from the Gardens to
Government House. * There is also a
drive on the S. side of the Esplanide
to the Cathedral and Chowringhee.
A little to the N. is Babu Ghit,
named from Raj Chandra Das, irho
constructed it There is a bandsoae
colonnade with Doric pillars.
Government House stands in a
garden of 6 acres. Begun 1799 by cot-
mand of Lord Wellesley (arch. Captain
Wyatt). The design is copied from
that of Eedlestone Hall, Derbyshire,
built by Adam, and consists of a centnl
building with four wings connected
with the centre by gaUeries. The
building stands N. and S., and the
grand entrance faces the N. To the
rt. on entering, beneath the porch, is
a finely-executed white marble statue
of the Marquis Wellesley. Close by are
portraits of Lords Canning, 1856-62,
Hasting, 1813-23, and Mayo, 1869-72.
The Dining-room is of white chunam
with a floor of veined .white marble.
On either side are six well -executed
marble busts of the Caesars, taken from a
French ship during the war. The
Throne-room is so-called from its con-
taining the throne of Tipu. The pic-
tures are, the Queen seated, by Sir George
Hayter, a most indifferent picture ;
Queen Charlotte, standing ; next G^rge
III., — both supposed to be by Hudson,
the master ofSir Joshua Reynolds. Next
is General the Hon. Arthur Wellesley,
1803, by Home, R.A., one of the best
in the collection, and extremely inter-
esting. On the way to the breakfast-
room, pass E. through a curved passage
to the Council-room, In this passage
are three full-length portraits — Lord
Teignmouth, 1793-98, The Earl of
EUenborough, 1842-44, and Lord
Metcalfe, 1835-39, the well-known
likeness by Hayes.
At the end of the passage is the
Council -room. The pictures are as
follows : The Earl of Minto, 1807-18
Sir Eyre Coote (over the centre door)
Marquis ComwalliB, 1786-98-1806
Digitized by VjOOQIC
PUBLIC BUILDINGS
5&
lord Hardinge, 1844-48, a {-length
eiit, in blue undress, wearing a
; Warren Hastings, 1772-85,
with ft motto, ''Mens equa in arduis,"
It the top, — a fine mcture. Over the
2d door rt is The Earl oi Elgin and
Kincftrdine, 1862-63, a {-length. Over
&e window. The Earl of Auckland,
183642, a ^-length. Mr. John Adam,
1823, a fine nicture by Sir Thomas
Lawrence. Marquis Wellesley, 1798-
1805, in peer's robes. Over a window
Lord Clive, {-length, wearing Riband
of the Bath, by I^athaniel Dance.
There are also pictures of Louis XY.
and Ms Queen, perhaps by De la Roche ;
of 'Udy William Bentinck, by Beechy ;
of the Nawab S'aadat 'Ali Khan, by
Chinnery ; the Shah of Persia, 1798 ;
Jaswant Sing, Maharajah of Bhurtpur,
by Anger ; and the Amir of Kabul, by
W. M. White.
Above the dining-room and the ad-
jeiniBg rooms is a splendid ballroom.
"Die £K}r is of polished teak, and the
ceilings are beautifully panelled, after
designs by Mr. H. M. Locke. The
chandeliers are said to have been cap-
tared with the busts of the Ceesars and
the portrait of Louis XY. from the
French. It is believed that they were
ill taken from the same ship, and were
apresent from the French Ejne destined
m the Nizam of Hyderabad. In the
S. anteroom is another picture of the
Xtrquis Wellesley. On a table are the
absidiaiy treaty of Hyderabad, 1798,
die partition treaty of Mysore, 1799,
tad subsidiary treaty of Seringapatam,
1799.
The extensive grounds are well kept.
40 yds. from the verandah on the
giound-floor is a fine brass 32-pounder,
kken at Aliwal, and inscribed in Gur-
tokhi. On either side is a 6-pounder
kass tiger-gun, taken from Tipu. On
the N. side is a large brass ^n, which
ii inscribed " Miani, 17th February,"
«d also ''Hyderabad, 30th of March
1843." On the K. side is another, with
tearriage representing a dragon. There
iialso a small brass gun to the N.W.,
«riou8 on account of its extreme a^e.
The Town HalL — ^This fine building
stands W. of Government House. It was
Wi% by tl^e inhabitaxits of Calcutta in
1804, and cost £70,000. The style is
Doric, with a fine flight of steps lead-
ing to a portico on the S. The car-
riage entrance is to the N. under a
portico. The centre of the building
IS occupied by a saloon 162 ft. long,
and 65 ft. broad. In the S. front is a
central room 82 ft. long, by 30 ft broad,
and two smaller rooma In the S. vesti-
bule is a marble statue of Warren
Hastings, by R. Westmacott, R.A.
He stands between a Mohammedan and
a Hindu. At the W. end of the lower
saloon is a marble statue by J. Bacon,
junr., of the Marquis of Comwallis.
This statue was erected by the British
inhabitants of Bengal, 1803 A.p. In
the vestibules are busts of C. B. Green-
law, Esq., and John Palmer, Esq., and
portraits of Lord Lake, Lord Gough,
Sir 0. Metcalfe, Sir H. Durand, Dwar-
kanath Thakur, Bishop Wilson, Mr.
Cameron, Mr. Wilberforce Bird, Sir
Henry Korman, and other distinguished
men. There are also full-length por-
traits of the Queen and Prince Albert,
presented by Her Majesty to the city
of Calcutta.
Opposite the Hall, about 60 yds. off,
is a oronze statue of Lord William
Bentinck, with an inscription by Lord
Macaulay, and close by is a statute of
Sir Stuart Bayley, a former Lieutenant
Governor.
The Legislative Council Office is
close by to the N.W. The S. front is
adorned with Corinthian columns.
The High Court is after the model
of the town hall at Ypres. The Chief
Justice's Court is in the S.W. comer.
The Court of First Instance is at the
S.E. comer. In the E. face is the
Barristers' Library. The Attorneys'
Library is in the E. corner ; and here
is a portrait of Justice Norman. In
the Court of First Instance, which is
also used as a Criminal Court when
required, are portraits of Sir Wm. Bur-
roughs, by Lawrence, 1818 ; Sir Fred.
Workman M'Naghten, by Chinneiy,
1824 ; and Sir Elijah Impey, Knt, by
Kettle, 1778. The next room contains
a picture of Shambu Nath Pandit, the
first Indian Judge, a native of Cashmere.
In the Chief Justice's Court are 3 pic-
, tures— Sir E. Im|)ey, by Zoffany, 1782^
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56
GALOUTTA dTT
Jniui
in red robes, standing ; Sir H. Bossell,
by Ohinnerv, 1872, robed in red ; and
Sir John Anstmther, 1805. In the
centre of the £. side is a statue of Sir
Edward Hyde East, 1821. In the
Judges' Library are six pictures —
Justice Trevor, H. B. Harington, and
Sir John Colvin, who died at Agra.
Opposite are Sir Ed. Ryan, Sir Robert
Chambers, and Sir Lawrence Peel.
There is a earden in the centre quad-
rangle, and a fountain.
The Secretariat. — This noble build-
ing stands on the N. side of Dalhousie
Square, and occupies the site of the
Old Writers* Buildiugs, where so many
illustrious Indian statesmen com-
menced their public career.
Calcntta University Senate House.
— On the N.W. of College Square are
Presidency College, Hare School, and
the Calcutta University. The Uni-
versity Senate House is a grand hall
120 ft. X 60 ft., in which the Convoca-
tions for conferring degrees take place.
It has a portico, supported by 6 lofty
pillars. Close by is the Hare School,
which is self-supportine, — ^itwas erected
out of the surplus fees of students.
The Hindu College was founded in
1824, and opened in 1827. The total
cost was 170,000 rs. In the year 1855
it was merged in the Presidency College.
The foundation stone of the new build-
ing of this College was laid in 1872 by
Sir Qeorge Campbell
The Indian MiiBeiini,^ 27 Chow-
ringhee Road, is an immense building,
and contains a very fine collection of
Fossils and Minerals, a Geological
Gallery with rich specimens, and a
Library ; but the most important
feature is the Gallery of Antiquities,
well worth inspection, particularly tiie
Buddhist remains brought from the
tope at Bharhut (see Fergusson's Hist
of Arch.) ; also those from Muttra and
Gandhara (Pai^jab), etc Some display
exquisite feeling, and are executed with
a vigour and grace worthy of the
Greeks. The composition of the figures
and the representations of the drapery
MO very remarkable.
1 Tbera ti «n ezo^ent catalogue.
Amongst other fine objects from
Muttra notice MS, a figure of Buddha,
6 ft. high, with a halo behind the head,
carved with floral devices. In the
Gandhara Collection notice amongst
many others G81atog,7 seated winmd
male human figures; G9S, a portion
of a frieze representing 6 naked boys,
quite classicin design ; GIOS, adomestio
scene, suggesting the Stable at Betii-
lehem.
The archseologist wiU find here
selected pieces from the most famous
ancient buildings in India. There are
interesting fragments of Buddhist art
from the caves of Orissa, from Sandu,
and Buddh Gaya, from Muttra, and
Samath, near Benares, and great num-
bers of other sculptures.
Amongst the Siwalik Fossil Remains,
observe the Hysenarctosor Hyena-Bear ;
the Amphicyon, a dog-like animal as
largeas the Polar bear ; the Machairodos
or Sabre- tooth tiger, whose canine teeth
were 7 in. long; also the Siwalik
cat, which was at least as large as a
tiger, — it is distinguished by a ridge
running along the upper ijart of the
skull. Amongst the American Eden-
tata remark the Megalonvz, long-nailed
animal, and the Glyptodon, a cigantic
armadillo, whose armour was afi of one
piece, so tiiat it could not roll itself up.
There is the skeleton of a Megatherium
brought from America, and one of an
elephant 11 ft high ; also of Hodson*s
antelope, whose two horns seen in a line
were tnought to belong to a miicom.
Amongst Siwalik birds there are the
shank-bone and the breast-bone of a
wading-bird as big as an ostrich. This
bird has been called the Megaloscelomis,
and these bones are the only ones
belonging to this species existing in
the world. In the Upper Palseonto-
logical Gallery there are many bones
of the Dinornis. Amongst the reptiles,
remark a Ma^r or crocodile, from
Matlah, 18 ft lone, and a snake of the
Ihrthon species, also of that length.
There are the jaws of the Balnnoptera
indica, which must have belonged to a
fish between 80 ft and 90 & long.
Observe also the remains of the Groco-
dilus crassidens, an extinct species of
enormous dimensions. There is also
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PUBLIC BUILDINGS
67
iipedmen of tbe Siwalik Oolossochelys,
» gigantic tortoise of prodigious size.
It will be noticed that whereas all the
8|iecie8 and many of the cenera of the
Siwalik Mammals and Birds are entirely
different from those inhabiting the
earth, all the genera of the Reptiles
have living representatives in India.
The Collection of the Fossil Vertebrata
of the Siwaliks is the most complete
and comprehensive in the world.
As to Minerals, it may be said that
most of the diamonds exhibited are
Indian, from Bnndelkund, S. India,
and Sambalpnr. There are also models
of tbe most celebrated diamonds, such
as the Regent, the most perfect brilliant
ia existence, the Koh-i-Nur, the Great
Niiam, etc, all of which were obtained
in India. Amount the Meteorites,
remark the model, ITo. 16, of one which
fell on the 23d of January 1870, at
Nedagolla, 6 m. S. of Parbatipur, in
the Madras Presidency. The original
weighed over 10 lbs. There is a
portion of the ori^nal weighing 7 oz.
260*8 CT., numbered 90, in the collection.
It is the only Indian meteoric iron here.
The Economical MuBemn. — Those
who desire to study the products of
the country and see the finest samples
of native manufactures, should visit
this section of the Museum. It occu-
pies a quadrangular building on the
Chowringhee Road facing the Maidaji.
It was here that the C^cutta Inter-
lational Exhibition of 1883-84 was
held.
The Hint is at the W. end of Nim-
tolla Street; built 1824-30 (archit.
Major W. N. Forbes). The style is
Doric, the central portico being a copy
in half size of the Temple of Minerva
it Athens. The area of the building
lad grounds is 18} acres.
The Dalhoosie Institnte stands on
^ S. side of Dalhousie Square, and
was built ''to contain within its walls
statues and busts of great men." The
fomdation-stone was laid in 1866, but
the entrance portico preceded it, having
been built m 1824. It contains a
statue of the Marquis of Hastings, by
Chan trey.
The hall is lined with marble, and
measures 90 x 45 ft. It contains statues
of the ^eat Marquis of Dalhousie, and
of the At Hon. James Wilson, and a
bust of Edward £. Yenables, indigo
planter, Azimgarh, all three by SteeU,
tLS.A. Also busts of Brig. -General
Neil, C.B., and of Sir Henry Havelock,
by Noble ; and of Sir James Outram
and General John Nicholson, who led
the attack upon Delhi, by Foley.
The Bengal Asiatic Society is at 57
Park Street. This institution wa*
established in 1784 by Sir William
Jones and led to the foundation of
the Royal Asiatic Society in London.
Visitors can be elected members. The
Asiatic Researches began to be issued
in 1788, and continued to be published
until 1839. The Journal began in
1832, and firom that time to 1839 both
publications were issued. The curi-
osities have all been sent to the Indian
Museum, where the Society was to have
had rooms. This having been denied
to them. Government made a grant to
the Society of IJ lakhs in compensation.
The library consists of 15,000 volumes,
and there is a large collection of coins,
copper-plates, pictures, and busts.
The Post Office (opened 1870) is a
fine building. It stands on the site
of the S. face of the Old Fort, and looks
E. on Dalhousie Square, formerly Tank
Square, and S. on Koilah Ghat Street.
It cost 630,510 rs. , and occupies an area
of 103,100 sq. ft. At the S.E. corner
is a lofty dome. According to the
Government plan, the site of the Black
Hole is marked by the third and fourth
pillars in the side fronting the Square,
counting from N. to S.
The Telegraph Office is also a fine
building. It stands at the S. comer
of Dalhousie Square.
Fort -William, S. of the Maidan,
received its name from William III.
Its site was changed in 1757, after
the battle of Plassey, from that which
is now occupied by the Post Office, to
the river-bank, where Clive commenced
a new and much more formidable
fortress, which was finished in 1773,
and cost £2, 000, 000. It is an irregular
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58
OALODTTA CITY
India
octagon, of which fire sides look land-
ward and three on the river. It is
surrounded by a fosse 30 ft. deep and
50 ft. broad, which can be filled from
the river. There are now two regi-
ments, one English and one N. L, and
one battery of artilleiy. There are six
gates— Chowringhee, rlassey, Calcutta,
and WatOT Gate, as well as St George's
and the Treasury Gate. Opposite the
Water Qate is the Gwalior Monument,
erected by Lord EUenborough, in 1844,
in memory of the officers and men who
fell in the Gwalior campaign of 1848.
It was designed by Colonel W. H.
Goodwjm, Beng. Eng. It is of brick,
faced with Jeypore marble, surmounted
by a metal cupola made from guns
taken from the enemy. In the centre
the names of those who fell at the
battles of Maharajpur and Paniar are
engraved on a sarcophagus. There is
also a sallyport between Water and St.
George's Gates. Entering by Chow-
ringhee Gate, past the Governor's resid-
ence, used as a Soldiers* Institute and
Garrison School, is the Fort Church,
St. Peter's, built in 1835. The Catholic
Chapel, St. Patrick's, was built in 1857.
The Military Prison is built on a mas-
sive storehouse, on which is an inscrip-
tion relating to the amount of rice and
grain deposited there by the authorities
in 1782. The Arsfftud is worth a visit.
The Fort commands the river, and is
a formidable defence to Calcutta.
The remains of the Old Fort. —The
first Fort- William lay between Banks-
hall Street, now Koilah Ghat Street,
on the S., and Fort Ghat Street, now
Fairlie Place, on the N. Its W. side
fronted the river. 80 ft. W. of the
Post Office is all that remains of the
S. curtain of the Fort, — a row of arches
10 ft hiffh in the walL The place is
now used as a workshop, with stables
at the W. end. According to some
authorities, the Black Hole was at the
second arch where you enter.
Metcalfe Hall, close by the S.W.
comer of Hare Street, was founded in
honour of Sir Charles Metcalfe by public
subscription. The design is copied
from the portico of the Temple of the
Winds at Athens. The entrance is on
the £. under a roofed-in colonnade. The
building contains the Public library
and the offices of the Amcultural and
Horticultural Society. In the Library,
which has passed through a period of
shameful neglect, there are many lare
and valuable works.
St Paul's Cathedral, on the K of
the Maidan, is about 1 m. from the Fort
(archit, M^or W. N. Forbes). The
style is Hindu - Gothic, or spurious
Gothic modified to suit ^e climate of
India. In the vestry of the Cathedral
is a large folio MS. volume entitled
" History of the Erection of St. Paul's
Cathedral," which contains a plan of
the Cathedral at p. 265. Over the
porch is a library, left to the public by
Bishop Wilson, and here is an ex-
cellent bust of that Bishop. The £.
window represents the Crucifixion,
designed bv West. It cost £4000, and
was given dv the Dean and Chapter of
Windsor. It was intended to be given
by George III. to St Gorge's Cha^l,
Windsor. Beneath it are mosaics.
The Communion Plate was given by
the Queen. The building cost £50,000,
of which the Bishop gave £20,000, half
of which, however, went to endowment
The W. central window is a memorial
to Lord Mayo.
On the 1. side of the vestibule is a
black marble tablet to 16 officers of the
BengEd Engineers, who fell during
the Indiaji Kevolt in the years 1857-
58. It is ornamented with 16 bronze
medallions, representing a well-known
and gallant incident in the siege of
Delhi — ^the blowing up of the Cashmere
Gate by Lieutenant Salkeld. Next is
a tablet to 15 officers who fell in the
Bhutan campaign. Next is a very
elaborate and peculiar monument, in
memory of John Paxton Norman, of
the Inner Temple, officiating Chief
Justice of Bengal, who was assassinated
on the steps of the Town Hall when
entering the High Court on 20th Sep-
tember 1871. Next is a tablet to 7
officers of the 68th Regiment N.I.,
<*who died during the Mutiny of the
Native Troops, and subsequent opera-
tions, from 1857 to 1859 ; some on the
field of battle, some by the hands c^
their own followers, others from disease;
all doing their duty."
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CHURCHES
59
Then follows a tablet to Mr. William
Kitchie of tiie Calcutta Bar and Inner
Temple, a member of the Council of
the Governor-General. The inscription
on the tablet is by Thackeray, who was
I cousin of Mr. Ritchie's. On the left
it a tablet to Sir H. M. Lawrence.
The tablet is adorned with a medallion
portndt in white marble. In the centre
of the left wall of the passage from the
vestibule to the transepts and body of the
dturch is a monument to Lord Elgin.
In the S.K comer of the S. transept
is the tomb of Lady Ccmniiig, brought
from Barrackpur. It consists of a base
of white marble with a sarcophagus,
on which is inlaid a cross with flowers.
The upper part of the steeple fell
dnnng the great earthquake of 12th
June 1897.
St John's Church, the Old Cathedral,
—To the W. of Church Ijane before
coming to the General Post Office.
"Council House Street" is written on
the S. E. gate pillar. The compound is
shaded with trees. Outside the church
to the N. of the W. entrance is a
domed pavilion about 50 ft. high, with
twelve pillars. It is said to have been
erected in commemoration of those who
fell in the Bohilla war, but strangely
enough there is no inscription.
The W. vestibule has on the 1. a
Urge picture of the Last Supper, painted
lod presented to the church by Sir John
Zoffany, in which the Apostles are all
portraits of certain well-known inhabit-
aots of Calcutta. The head of Our
Smour is said to have been taken from
» Greek clergyman, called Parthenio,
lad St. John from Mr. Blaquire, the
v^-known police magistrate. In this
ebirch and its compound are the oldest
lid most interesting tablets to be found
ia Calcutta.
In the compound in the pavilion,
it the K. end, is a tablet to William
^milton, who, in 1717, having cured
^ Emperor Farrukhsiyar, obtained
for the £. I. Company the right of
«K>rting their goods free of duty,
SM. other great privileges.
Close to this is a tablet to Job Char-
nock, one of the first Governors of
Bengal, and the founder of Calcutta.
A few yards to the S. is the tomb of
Admiral Watson, who with Clive re-
took Calcutta. It has a large square
base supporting an obelisk, inscribed
to his memory.
The Old Mission Church. — This
Church is called the Pooranah Gin'ah,
or Old Churchy by the natives. This,
with the parsonage and the office of
the Church Missionarv Society, is in a
pretty compound in Mission Row. It
18 125 ft long from E. to W., and 81 ft.
10 in. broad, and seats 450 persons. It
was built by the celebratea missionary
Johann Zacharias Kiemander, who was
bom at Azted, in Gothland, Sweden,
in 1711, and educated at the University
of Upsal. Being offered a post as mis-
sionary, he left England in 1758, and
opened a school in Calcutta. His
second wife on her death left valuable
jewels, with which he founded a school.
He called his Church Beth Tephillah,
" House of Pi-ayer.** When blind he
was deceived into signing a bond which
ruined him. The church was seized by
his creditors, but redeemed by Mr.
Charles Grant for 10,000 rs. He then
went to Chinsurah, and died there in
1 799. There is a windowpresented by
Eiemander's grandson. There is a good
engraving of him in the Mission Room,
with an inscription in German. There
are many interesting tablets in the
church, particularly one to Mr. Charles
Grant, and one to the Rev. Henry
Martyn, also to Bishop Dealtry of
Madras, to Bishop Wilson, and to an
Arab lady of distinction who was con-
verted to Christianity.
The steeple was so seriously injured by
the great earthquake of 12th June 1897,
that it has been necessary to rebuild it.
Missions of the Church of England.
— The Oxford Mission, 42 Comwallis
Street, works chiefly among the high-
caste natives, and has charge of Bishop's
College (in Circular Road), a Boys* High
School, and Industrial School.
S,P,G., headquarters Bishop's Col-
lege, Lower Circular Road ; Mission
Church, St. Saviour's, Wellesley Square,
with a Boarding School.
S.P,G. Ladies^ AsaociaUon have
charge of the Milman Memorial School
for Girls.
Sisters of St, John (Clewer) have
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CALGUXTA OITY
India
charge of the Oovermnent Ctoneral
Hospital, the Medical Staff Hospital,
the Eden Hospital, and the Lady
Caxming Home for Nwraes. Also of
native mission-work at FeqnUputty in
the rice-fields 3 m. distant.
The Free Churchqf Scotland's Missum,
begun by Alexander Duff in 1830, is
conducted from the Duff College,
Nimtola Street, the Mission houses
2 Comwallis Square, and the Woman's
Society's Schools in Beadon Street.
The Scottish church is in Wellesley
Square.
The Scotch Kirk, St, Andrew*8, is
situated in Radha Bazaar. It is c^led
by the natives Lai Oirjah, It was
opened in 1818, and cost £20,000.
This church sends a representative to
the General Assembly at Edinburgh.
It seats 500 persons. In the vestry
there is a portrait of Dr. James Bryce,
the first minister, by Sir John Watson
Gordon. There are some handsome
monuments within the church.
The first Portuguese came to Calcutta
in 1689, to whom the English granted
a piece of land in Portuguese Church
Lane on which the firiars of the order
of St. Augustin erected a chapel
in 1700. Its successor the Roman
Catholic Cathedral was built in 1797.
It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary of
the Rosary.
St. Thomas's Roman Catholic
Church. — A handsome building, in
Middleton Bow, not far from the
Indian Museum ; commenced in 1841.
Close by is the Convent of Our Lady
of Loreto.
The Ghreek Church. — Turning to the
W. down Cannine Street, on uie way
to Burra Bazaar, tne traveller will come
to the Greek Church, built in 1780 by
subscription, Mr. Warren Hastings
heading the list with 2000 rs.
The Armenian Church of St, Nazar-
eth is close by. It is on the rt. of the
road leading to Burra Bazaar. It was
founded in 1724, and completed in 1790.
The Brahma SomaJ is the reformed
Theistic oect of Hindus. It has very
little hold on the rural population, the
few members being generally men of
good social position. The sect was
founded by Raja Ram Mohan Rai in
1830. In 1858 Eeshab Chandra Sen
joined the Somaj, being then 20 years
of age. In 1862 he was ordained
minister of the Calcutta Brahma'Somaj.
In October 1865 his secession took pUce,
and next year a new body was organised
by Eeshab, entitled the Brahma Sonuy
of India, and in January 1868 the first
stone was laid of a new church for the
progressive Brahmas or Eeshab Chan-
dra Sen's party. Brahma marriages
being illegat in 1872, on the application
of Keshab, Lord Mayo passed the
Native Marriage Act, which enacts that
the parties must be unmarried, the
bridegroom and bride must have com-
pleted the age of 18 and 14 years
respectively, must not be related within
certain degrees, and, if under 21, except
in the case of a widow, must have the
written consent of parent or guardian.
The Mosqne of Prince Ghnlam Mu-
hammad.— This is the finest Mosque
in Calcutta, and stands at the comer
of DhuramtoUa Street and may be
visited when driving up Chowringhee,
from which it is conspicuous. It is
inscribed, ''This Musjid was erected
during the Government of Lord Auck-
land, G.C.B., by the Prince Ghulam
Muhammad, son of the late Tipu Sultan,
in gratitude to God, and in commemora-
tion of the Honourable Court of Dir-
ectors granting him the arrears of hib
stipend in 1840."
Belvedere, the Lt-Govemor's Falace,
— This fine building stands in ex-
tensive and well-kept grounds. In
the entrance hall are some trophies of |
Indian arms, and full-length portraits
of Sir John Grant and Sir William Grey.
In the reception room are portraits of
H.M. the Queen-Empress and of Sir
Charles and Lady Elliott. The electrie
light is worked from the neighbouring
jaiL At the spot which is now the "V^
entrance of Belvedere, on the 'AJipui
road, was fought the dnel between War-
ren Hastings and Sir Philip Francis^
in which the latter was wounded.
Bace-conrse. — In driving to Belv*
dere, the Race-course on the Maid«|
will be passed on the rt The ground I
perfectly level, and the distance is 2 n
Garden Beach. — Here used to \
numerous fine villas, most of whid
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BOTANICAL GARDENS
61
were built between 1768 and 1780,
BOW utilised by steamship companies
md cotton and jute mills. Just above
Garden Reach is the village of Eidder-
par, so called after Mr. Kyd, who con-
stracted the Government Dockyard,
near which the Port Trust has excavated
magnificent new Docks. Between 1781
and 1821 ships were built at the Eid-
derpnr Docks, at a cost of more than
£2,000,000, and in 1818, the Hastings,
a 74-gun ship was launched there. At
the W. extremity of Garden Beach, or
in its vicinity, was situated the small
fort of 'Aligarh, and opposite to it, on
the other bank of the river, was the
Fort of Tanna, both of which were
taken by Clive in the recapture of
Calcutta in 1756.
A short distance to the E.of 'Alipur,
and immediately S. E. of Calcutta, is the
saburb of BaJigimj, within the limits of
the S. Suburbfm Municipality, and the
residence of many Europeans. Beyond
is ToUygimj where the Calcutta resi-
dents have laid out the fine grounds of
the Athletic Club.
Kallghat, celebrated as the site of a
temple in honour of the goddess Eali,
the wife of Shiva, is situated on the
bank of the old bed of the Ganges, a
few m. S. of Calcutta. The place
derives sanctity from the legend that
when the corpse of Shiva's wife was
cat in pieces by order of the gods,
lad chopped up by the disc {sudarsan
Mera) of Vishnu, one of her fingers
fell on this spot. The temple is
■opposed to have been built about
three centuries ago. A member of the
Sabama Chandhu family, who at one
time owned considerable estates in
fids part of the country, cleared the
^gle, built the temple, and allotted
194 acres of land for its maintenance.
A man of the name of Chandibar was
&e first priest appointed to manage
the affairs of the temple. His descend -
aits have now taken the title of
Haldar, and are at present the pro-
prietors of the building. They have
amassed great wealth, not so much
from the proceeds of the^ Temple lands
as from the daily offerings made by
pH^rlms to the shrine. The principal
religious festival of the year is on the
second day of the Durca-puja, when
the temple is visited by crowds of
pilgrims, principally belonging to the
district of ^e 24 Parganas and the
surrounding villages.
Crossing Eidderpur bridge, the visitor
passes the garden gate of what was once
the residence of the late King of Oudh.
Excursions in the vicinity of
Calcutta.
The Royal Botanical Gardens, on
the W. bank of the river, opposite
'Alipur, were founded in 1786, on the
suggestion of General Eyd, who was
appointed the first Superintendent.
His successors, Roxburgh, Wallich,
Griffith, Falconer, Thomson, Anderson,
and Eing, have all been celebrated
botanists. The visitor may drive to
the Gardens from Howrah or to the
Eing of Oudh's place and cross the river
Hooghly in a boat. The area of the
Gar&ns is 272 acres, with river frontage
of a mile. The whole of them may be seen
without descending from the carriage.
At the N. W. comer is the Howrah Gate,
where are three fine trees — a Ficus
vndica in the centre, with a Ficus
religiosa on either side. There is an
avenue of Palmyra palms to the right
of the entrance, and one of mahogany
trees to the left. The visitor will pass
up a broad road in the centre, leaving
to the left a sheet of water, and then
passing through casuarina trees, up
which are trained specimens of climb-
ing palms, will enter the Palm Planta-
tion. A canal divides this from the
rest of the Gardens, crossed by three
bridges. Having crossed one of these,
the visitor will find the Flower Garden
on the right, where are many con-
servatories and two orchid houses:
close by is a conservatory 200 ft.
long, and a monument to General Eyd,
from which a broad walk runs down
to the River Entrance. Leaving this
to the left, the visitor will pass along a
road which leads to the Great Banyan
Tree {Ficus indica), which covers ground
nearly 1000 ft. in circumference. On
the 1. of an avenue near the ^eat tree
is a monument to Roxbui^, with a
Latin epitaph by Heber. There are
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62
KXCtJRSlOKS IN TH» VldNITt Olf OAliCtJTtA
India
also tablets in the Garden, near the old
conservatory, to Jack and to Griffith.
Sir J. Hooker, in his interesting
work Himalayan JoiimdU, toL i
says of these Grardens, in 1848, that
"they had contributed more nsefol
and ornamental tropical plants to the
public and private gardens of the world
than any other establishment before or
since." He says also, " that the creat
Indian Herbarium, chiefly formed by
the Staff of the Botanic Gardens, under
the direction of Dr. Wallich, and distri-
buted in 1829 to the principal Mu-
seums of Europe, was the most valu-
able contribution of the kind ever
made to science ; " and adds, ** that the
origin of the tea-culture in the Hima-
layas and Assam was almost entirely
the work of the Superintendent of the
Gardens at Calcutta and Saharanpur."
The Superintendent has a house in the
Gardens. Near it is the Herbarium, or
collection of dried plants, probably the
only one in Asia of the first class.
There are from 30,000 to 40,000 species
represented in it. Attached to the Her-
barium is a very fine Botanic Library.
dvU Bngineerinc: OoUege, N. of
the Gardens, including the Bishop's
CJoUege, looks well from the river.
Barraokpur sta., called by the natives
Charnock, from Job Chamock, who
resided there for a period. The journey
may be made by rail, carriage, or by
river, if the traveller can procure the
loan of a steam launch. The trip up
the river takes 3 hrs., and is interesting
and picturesque. If time permits, the
river excursion may pleasantly be ex-
tended to Serampore, Chandemagore,
Chinsurah, and Hooghly (see below).
Just before reaching Barrackpur,
there are some handsome modem
temples on the L bank, then comes
the oeautiful park (rt) with noble trees
and a small pier as landing-place, at
which the Viceroy's yacht very often
lies. At 300 yds. to the S. of the
house, under a fine tamarind tree, is a
polygonal enclosure, within which is
a wmte marble monument to Lady
Cannine ; it replaces that removed to
the Cathedral at Calcutta. The Hall,
built by the Earl of Minto in 1818, is
100 yds. to the N. of the house, snd
stands within a colonnade of Corinthian
pillars. Over the outside entrance is
a black slab, inscribed —
To the Memory of the Brave.
On the walls are four Tablets erected
by different Governors-General to the
memory of British soldiers who fell in
Mauritius and Java 1810-11, in Isk of
France, Maharajpur, and Paniar, 1843.
The House, which is the Viceroy's
country residence, was commenced by
Lord Minto, and enlarged to its present
size by the Marquis of Hastings. It
contains some interesting pictures of
native princes. N. of the park is Bar-
rackpur Cantonment. Iroops were
first stationed there in 1772, when the
Slaoe received its name. In 1824,
uring the Burmese War, the 47th
B. N. I., which was ordered on service,
mutinied here on the 30th October,
on which the Commander-in-Chief, Sir
Edward Paget, proceeded to the can-
tonment with two European regts., a
battery of European artillery, and a
troop of the Governor-General's Body-
guard. The mutinous regiment was
drawn up in face of these troops, and
was ordered to march, or grouna arms.
The Sepoys refused to obey, when the
guns opened upon them, and throwing
away their arms and accoutrements
they made for the river. Some were
shot down, some drowned, many hanged,
and the regt. was struck out of the
"Army List." Again, in 1857, there
were Mutiny trouDles here.
Dum Dam sta., D.B., 4^ m. from Cal-
cutta. A municipal town and canton-
ment. There is a D.B. in the sta.
(31,578 inhab.) It was the headquarters
of the Bengal Artillery from 1788 till
1858, when they were removed to
Meerut ; and their mess-house is now
the Soldiers' Club, and is known as tiie
Outram InstittUe, A bust of Sir James
Outram stands in the verandah.
In the centre of the Barrack Square
is a huge gun which has seen some
service. Near this is the monument
to the officers and men killed in the
Ehaibar whilst returning from Kabul
in 1841. The Treaty which restored
the British settlements after the re-
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9R0H CAL0U1ITA tTP Tfifi W. BAKK OF THB BOOGHLY
63
ttptme of Calcutta was signed at Dmn
Dam. There is an En^h Ohnioh
-St. Stephen's — a Boman Catholic
Oiapel, and a Wesleyan ChapeL
Theie is a Small Arm AmmtmUion
Factory, which is guarded by British
Infantry.
Pdo, cricket, and football, snipe-
shooting, and tank -fishing are the
imusements of the place. Lord Clive
had a house at Dum Dum, and Fairy
Hall was occupied by Sir Henry
Lavnnce, when a Lieutenant
From CcUctdta by the E, I, Rly, vp the
W, bank of the Rooghly.
The Howrah sta. is on the W. bank
of the Hooghly river, 200 yds. beyond
the Hoo^ly Bridge. This Imdge
opens on Tuesdays and Fridays for two
hours for ships to pass.
Madras tiT/ie is kept at all stations,
and is 33 min. behind Calcutta time.
1st and 2d class return -tickets, avail-
able for two months, are issued to any
station more than 130 m. distant, at the
i&te of one ordinary fare and a half.
Holders of monthly tickets, on arriving
at a station where they intend breaking
theirjoumey must have inserted on their
tickets the date and train of arrival,
and when leaving the date and train
of departure. Each first^dass passenger
may take 1^ maunds of luggage free.
24 m. Hooi^y sta. {Hugli) and Chin-
snrah (2 m. from Hooghly sta., see
below), are bracketed together as one
in the Census Report, and together
cover an area of 6 sq. m. The pop. is
31,000. Hooghly town is the adminis-
trative headquarters of the district of
the same name. It was founded by
the Portuguese in 1647 a.d., when the
royal port of Bengal, Satgaon, began
V) be deserted, owing to the silting up
•f the Saraswati, on which river it
was situated. They commenced by
boilding a fortress at Ghol^hat, close
to the present Hooghly jail, some
vestiges of which are still visible in
the l»d of the river. When Shah Jehan
came to the throne, complaints were
made to him of the conduct of the
Portujniese at Hooghly. He sent a
large toTce there ; the fort was besieged.
and after 4} months was stormed.
More than 1000 Portuguese were
slain, and 4000 men, women, and chil'
dren were captured. Out of 300 Portu-
guese vessels only three escaped. The
prisoners were sent to Agra, and
forcibly converted to Islam. Satgaon
was then abandoned for Hooghly, which
was made the royal port, and was also
the first settlement of the English in
Lower Bengal. The E. I. Co. established
a factory there in 1642, under 2l firman
from Sultan Shtga*, Governor of Ben-
gal, and second son of Shah Jehan.
Thisj^rman was granted to Dr. Bough
ton, who had cured a favourite daughter
of the emperor, and who asked tor it
when desired to name his reward. In
1669, the Company received permission
to bring their ships to Hooghly to load,
instead of transporting their goods in
small vessels, and then shipping them
into large. In 1685, a dispute took
place between the English at Hooghly
and the Kawab of Bengal, and the
Company sent a force to protect their
Hooghly factories. It chanced that a
few English soldiers were attacked by
the Kawab's men in the bazaars, and a
street fight ensued. Colonel Nicholson
bombaided the town, and burned 500
houses, including the Company's ware-
houses, containing goods to the value
of £300,000. The chief of the English
factory was obliged to fly to Sutanuti,
or Chattanatti, and take shelter with
some native merchants. In 1742
Hooghly was sacked by the Marathas.
The principal thing to be seen at
Hooghly is the Imambarah, built by
Earamat ' Ali, the friend and companion
of Arthur Connolly, at a cost of 800,000
rs. from funds bequeathed by Muham-
mad Mushin, who owned a quarter of
the great Saiyadpur estate, in Jessore
District, and died m 1814, without heirs,
leaving property worth £4500 a jrear for
pious purposes. The trustees quar-
relled, and Government assumed charge
of the estate. During the litigation a
fund of £86,110 had accumulated, and
with this the Hoo^ly College was
founded, in 1836. The facade of the
Imambarah is 277 ft.x36 ft, and in
its centre is a gateway flanked by two
I minarets, or towers, 114 ft. high. On
Digitized byLjOOQlC
G4
EXCURSIONS IN THIB VICINITY OF CALCUTTA
Tndia
either side of the door are inscriptions.
Within is a quadrangle, 150 ft. x 80 ft,
with rooms all loond, and a fine hall,
paved with marhle, having a palpit
with sides covered with plates of silver,
and a verse of the Koran inscribed in
each plate. ' The library was bequeathed
by Earamat 'Ali, but a few books have
since been added by other people.
Amon^ them are 787 MSS., including a
fine fouo Koran, in two vols., given by
Prince Ghulam Muhammad, son of
Tipu. On the opposite side of the road
from this Imambarah is the old Imam-
barah, buUt in 1776-77. In the W.
comer lie the remains of Karamat 'Ali,
and there is a white marble tablet placed
acainst the wall, with an extract from
the Koran, but no tomb.
About 6 m. from Hooghly is ScUgaonif
where there is a ruined mosque,
which, together with a few tombs
near it, is the only remnant of the
old capital of Lower Bengal. It was
built by Sfidyad Jamalu-din, son of
Fakhru-din, who, according to in-
scriptions in the mosque, came from
Amol, a town on the Caspian. The
walls are of small bricks, adorned
inside and out with arabesques. The
central Mihrab is very fine. The
arches and domes are in the later
Pathan style. At the S.E. angle
are three tombs in an enclosure.
During the last century, the Dutch
of Chmsurah had their country seats
at Satgaon, to which they walked,
in the miMle of the day, to dine.
The river of Satgaon, up to Akbar*8
time, formed the N. frontier of
Orissa^ and Satgaon flourished for
not less than 1500 vears. Three cen-
turies ago the Hooghly flowed by the
town.
ddnsurali is written in the old
Hindu books, Chuchimda or Chim-
chuda. Chinsurah was held by the
Dutch for 180 years, and ceded by
them to the English in exchange for
Sumatra, in 1826. The old IhUeh
Church, of brick, is said to have been
built by the Governor in 1678. In
it are 14 escutcheons, dating from
1685 to 1770, and the inscriptions are
in Dutch.
The Hooghly College is to the S. of
the church. There are 600 students,
ihe cemetery is 1 m. to the W. of the
church ; the new part is tolerably well
kept, but; not so the part where the
old tombs are. Many of them are of
Dutch officials.
Bandel is 1 m. N. of Hooghly and
28 m. N. of Calcutta. The Portag^se
monastery and church was built in
1599, and the keystone with the date
was erected in the new one, which is
of brick, and very solidly built It ia
dedicated to Nossa Senhora di Bosario.
There are fine cloisters on the S., and
a priory, in which is a noble room called
St Augustine's HaU. The organ is
good. The church was founded b^ the
Augustinian Missionaries, demolished
by Shah Jehan in 1640, and rebuilt by
John Gomez di Soti.
Serampore sta. The headquarters ot
the subdivision of the same name is
on the W. bank of the Hooghly, oppo-
site Barraokpur, 13 m. from Calcutta
(24,440 inhab.) Babu Bholanath Chan-
dra, in his Travels of a Hindu, p. 6,
says, " Serampore is a snug little town,
and possesses an exceeding elegance and
neatness of appearance. The range of
houses along the river-side makes up a
gay and brilliant picture. The streets
are as brightly clean as the walks in. a
garden, but time was when Serampore
had a busy trade, and 22 ships. cleared
from this small port in three months. "
Its chief claim to historical notice arises
from the fact that it was the scene of the
apostolic labours of Carev, Marshman,
Ward and Mack. The zeal and successes
of the Baptist missionaries of Seram-
pore, at the beginning of this century,
form one of the bri^test episodes of
Evangelistic efforts in India. From
its press proceeded 40 translationa of
the Scriptures. Serampore was for-
merly a Danish settlement, and was
then called FredericksnacRLr. The fine
mansion of the Danish Governor now
forms the Courts of Justice and admini-
strative offices. In 1845 a treaty
was made with the Kin^ of Den-
mark, by which all the Danish posses
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ROUTE 2. AURANGABAD
65
lions in India, namely, Tranquebar,
Fredericksnagar, and a small piece of
ground at Buasore were transferred to
the R I. Company for £125,000.
The old Danid Church (1805) cost
18,600 rs., of which 1000 were given
by the Marquis Wellesley. There are
tablets in memory of the above-
mentioned Baptist missionaries. Their
tombs are in the native Christian
cemetery, on the right hand of the
road from the railway station. The
church is now Anglican.
The College is a handsome building
<Hi the banks of the river, and com-
mands a fine view across it, over Bar-
rackpur Park. The porch is supported
by SIX pillars 60 ft high. On the
ground floor are the Lecture-rooms, and
in the floor above, the Great Hall, which
is 103 ft. long, and 66 ft. broad. In
the Library are the following portraits :
1. Madame Grand, by Zofiany ; she
afterwards married Talleyrand (see
Mdme. de Remusat's Memoirs) ; 2. Dr.
Marshman, by ZoffSany; 8. Frederick
VL of Denmark ; 4. Frederick's wife,
Qneen of Denmark ; 5. copy of a
Madonna by Raphael ; 6. Rev. W. Ward,
by Penny. The library contains the
first editions of Carey and Marshman*s
forty translations of the Bible; also
some curious Sanscrit and Thibetan
manuscripts, and an account of the
Apostles drawn up by Xavier's nephew
for Akbar. In the College compound
is the house in which Carey lived and
died, now inhabited by the Principal of
t^ College. Before reaching the Col-
lege the Mission Chapel is passed, with
manorial slabs.
The fine mansion next to the chapel,
vhich was the common centre of the
Sounpore brotherhood, with all Carey's
pak and botanic garden, is now the
nperty of the India Jute Company,
bro, from 1835 to 1875, the weekly
hiend €f India was edited.
Qhaademagore sta. 3^ The French
laiie a settlement here in 1673, and
infte time of Dupleix more than 2000
bilk houses were built in the town,
«od a considerable trade was carried
OB. In 1757 the town was bombarded
l^ the English fleet under Admiral
Watson, and captured. The fortifi-
[India]
cations were demolished, but in 1763
the town was restored to the French.
In 1794 it was again captured by the
English, and held till 1815, when it
was again restored to the French, and
has remained in their possession ever
since. The railway station is just
outside the French boundary.
Chandemagore receives from the
English 800 chests of opium on con-
dition that the inhabitants do not
eneaffe in the manufacture of that
article. A church stands on the bank
of the river, built by Italian mission-
aries in 1726. Between Chandemagore
and Chinsurah is Biderra^ where the
English obtained a decisive victory
over the Dutch. It is said that the
English commander was aware that his
nation and the Dutch were at peace,
and wrote to Clive for an order in
council to fight. Clive was playing
cards, and ^rote in pencil: "Dear
Forde, fight them to-day, and I will
send you an order to-morrow. — Thurs-
day nth, 1.30 P.M."
ROUTE 2
Bombay to Attrangabad and thb
Caves of Ellora by Nandgaon sta.
Bombay (Victoria term.) to Nandgaon
sta. 178 m. by the G. I. P. Rly. The
mail tonga runs dail^ from Nandgaon
to Aurangabad, a distance of 56 m.
in 9 hours — a fairly good road. Con-
veyances to the Ellora Caves can be had
only by special arrangement with the
mail contractor at Nandgaon.
Deogaon, D.B. 3^ (36 m. from
Nandgaon).
The road to Roza and the caves leaves
the main road from Aurangabad 4^ m.
beyond Deogaon, from which point
the caves are 4} m. distant. Some
persons prefer to go first direct to
Aurangabad, seeing Daulatabad, the
caves, and other places of interest on
the return journey.
56 m. Aurangabad, D.B. This
thriving city (pop. 8680), which has a
considerable trade in cotton and wheat,
was first called Khirki, and was founded
in 1610 by Malik Ambar, the head of
the Abyssinian faction in the Ahmad-
nagar state. The t^wn lies to the E.,
Digitized by Google ^
ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO AURANGABAD
India
the cantonment and the road to Daula-
tabad, Koza, and EUora to the W. 300
yds. S. of the Old Cemetery, 1 m. N.E. of
the city, is the grand HauBOleum of
Babi'a Dazraaii daughter of Aurangzib.
The great door at the gateway is plated
with brass, and along the edge is
written, "This door of the noble mauso-
leum was made in 1089 a.h., when
Atau'Uah was chief architect, by Haibat
Rai." Near the inscription is an in-
finitesimally small figure, which is said
to be a bird, indistinctly carved, and
there is a similar carving on the door
of the mausoleum itself. It is a com-
mon joke amongst natives, when any
man asserts that he has been to Rabi'a's
mausoleum, to ask if he saw the biixi
there, and if he answers in the negative,
to dispute his having seen the mauso-
leum at all. In the garden is a long
narrow basin of water, in which foun-
tains used to play, and on either side
of the water is a walk and ornamental
wall. In the wall of the mausoleum
is a second but much smaller door, only
6 ft. high, plated with brass, where the
second bird is pointed out. The carving
of the flowers on this door is curious,
and that of the dragons particularly so,
and both are extremely like Japanese
work. Q'he bird is on the edge of the
door close to the upper central knob.
The cenotaph is endosed in an octa-
gonal screen of white marble lattice-
work exquisitely carved, and stands on
a raised marble platform. The place
for the slab is empty, and nothing but
earth appears. This is much approved
by Moslems, as showing humility. The
Government of the Nizam has gone to
great expense in restoring this mauso-
leum. The main fault of this otherwise
beautiful building, which is compared
to the Taj, is the want of sufficient
height in the entrance archway. Ob-
serve the cuiious roof of the gateway
of the mausoleum. Below the right
corner of the platform is a second tomb,
said to contain the remains of Rabi'a
Durrani's nurse. There is no inscnp-
tion. In the gallery above the tomb is
a marble door exquisitely carved. To
the W. of the mausoleum is a mosque
of brick faced with cement (chuTumi) of
tt dazzling whiteness. The pavement is
covered with tracings of prayer-carpets.
The mimbarj or pulpit, is of marUe.
The Pan Chakki or water-mill is
perhaps the prettiest and best kept
shrine in this part of India. It isatu-
ated on the rt. of the road from the
cantonment to the Begampura bzidge,
and on the very edge of the Eham» the
river of Aurangabad. To enter, turn to
the rt. into a beautiful garden by the
side of a brimming tank of clear water,
full of fish from 1 ft. to 3 ft. long, of
a species called Kfiol, This tank over-
flows into a lower one, and that again
into a narrow conduit. The saint en*
tombed here (see below) is Baba Shah
Muzaflar. He was a Chishti (member of
a theosophical sect amon^ the Moham-
medans), and came originally from
Bokhara. He was the spiritual pre-
ceptor of Aurangzib. His successor is
still in charge of the place. Beyond
the first tank and the ornamental
garden is a second and much larger one.
It is entirely supported on vaults, on
two rows of massive pillars. The weight
of the great body of water i-esting on
them is enormous, and altogether it i8
a remarkable work. Below is a Roble
hall reached by steep steps down to the
level of the river. On the rt. of the
second tank is a fine mosque, the roof
of which is supported by four rows of
massive pillars. In two of the rows
the pillars are of teak, and in two of
masonry. At the S.W. corner of this
mosque, in a little garden, is the Tomb
of the saint. It is of beautiful light-
coloured marble, but very diminutive.
After leaving the Pan Chakki, drive
i m. N. to the Mecca Gate of the city,
and the Mecca Bridge^ which are prob-
ably some centuries old. The gateway
from the top of the parapet is 42 ft
above the road whicli passes over tb<
bridge. The flanking towers are snr
mounted by domes. Inside thegate then
is a black stone mosque built by Malil
Ambar. In the centre is a niche with th<
Divine Name, and * ' Victory is near.'
Above that is the Kaliviafiy and sonw
verses of the Koran written in difficull
T-Mgr^ra (ornamental characters and use*
in royal signatures). Close by is a reces
with a bell-shaped ornament. Thisi
perhaps the oldest mosque in the city.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 2. OAVES OP AURANGABAD
67
The Goyenunent Offices are 2 m.
to the S.E. of the cantonment, and
in or near the Arkilla or citadel built
by Aorangzib. This spot not long ago
was entirely covered with cactus and
jungle, the haunt of hyenas and other
wild animals. It was, however, the
site of gentlemen's houses in the reign
(^ Anrangzib, when Aurangabad was
the capital of the Deccan. Sir Salar
Jang ordered the site to be cleared,
and when this was done, numerous
reservoirs, fountains, and other works of
interest were discovered. These have
been repaired, and the wilderness has
literally been changed into a blooming
garden. On the high ground looking
down upon the Revenue Settlement
Officer's Rooms, and on those of the
Municipality, is a fine hall, and in iront
of it is a beautiful tank of most jwil-
locid water. Behind the hall is a
well-an*anged garden, and in rear
of that again is the BaraMarif or
Oovemme7U RovsCf with a fine fountain
in front. The facade of the Barahdari
is ornamented with lace-like patterns
in white chunam . Only one archway of
Anrangzib's citadel remains, but here
53 great princes, like the Maharajas
of Jeypore and Jodhpnr, attended the
court of the Emperor with thousands
of armed retainers, and Aurangabad
was then the Delhi of the South. As
toon as Aurangzib died the princes
departed, and Aurangabad sank at
once into comparative insignificance.
The Jmnma Hnsjid is on the right
of the road, amid a grove of some of
the finest trees in India. One
B&mense Ficus indica stands close on
the road and shades some 300 ft. of
it The Mosque is low and so are the
ninarets. But the fa9ade is rendered
itriking by an ornamental band of
<*rving 2 ft. broad along the whole
init Over the central niche are the
taiimah and inscriptions in Tughra
■nting as in Malik Ambar's Mosque.
^ mosque is wonderfully well kept,
*ri there is, what is not seen anywhere
<^ a net covering the entire fa9ade,
fithat no birds or other creatures can
•ter. Malik Ambar built half this
teosque, and Aurangzib the other half.
The Caves of Aurangabad are beyond
L
the N. outskirts of the city near Rabf a
Durrani's mausoleum, from which it is
necessary to ride or walk to the foot of the
hills, which are here about 500 ft. high.
The ground at the base of the hill is
very rough, and intersected with deep
ravines. The visitor will have to climb
over a very rough and slippery rock
about 250 n. up to the caves. He will
then see the mausoleum of Rabi'a 1}
m. to the S.E. Steps lead to the
entrance of Cave No. L On the left
of the door is Buddha in the teaching
attitude, that is, holding the little
finger of the left hand between the
thumb and forefinger of the right.
A Gandharva is nying nearly over
Buddha's head. On ttie left is the
Padmapani, "lotus holder," an attend-
ant. The other attendant on the right
is Vajrapani, "lightning holder."
Above the side door on tne left are
three Buddhas, two of which are cross-
legged, and the third is in the teaching
attitude with the usual attendants. On
the right of the main entrance are
Buddha and three figures similar to
those on the left. A lai^e figure of
Buddha, of black stone, 6 ft. high, sits
facing the entrance to the shrine. A
circle in relief on the wall represents a
halo round his head. Padma and Vajra
are one on either side as usual, with
Gandharvas over their heads. This
cave has been whitewashed, and the
white patch on the side of the hill
can be seen &om a mile off in the plain
below. There is an ornament like
prongs round the archway.
Cave No, ;^ is a Ohaitya Hall with t
semicircular roof with stone ribs, like
the Yishwakarma Gave at EUora, and
a triforium. It consists of a nave 15
ft. long on either side, besides a bow or
curve 17 ft. long. Near the end of the
nave there is a dagoba with a "Tee"
very perfect. The ribs of the roof are
13 ft. above the cupola of the dagoba.
Canje No. 5 is a vihara. The outer
verandah is ruined. The centre hall
is portioned off as usual by twelve
pillars, with plain bases, shafts, and
brackets. There is the usual vestibule
and sanctuary. The central Buddha
is 9 ft. 6 in. hi^h. On either side are
seven worshipping figures. Cave No»
Digitized by VjOOQIC
68
ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO AURANGABAB
India
^ is a small vihara. Buddha is seated
on a Singhascm in the teaching attitude.
All round on the wall are smaller
Buddhas. The sanctuary is 8 ft. 4 in.
square. The Yajrapani has a da-
goba in his crest, and two figures of
Buddha. The Nagas, known by their
snake-heads, stand at the sides of the
two attendants. A good example of
the dagoba crest or Tee is in the
corridor to your right as you enter, after
passing the first division, about the
middle in point of height. Cave No. 5
is higher up in the face of the cliff, and
is not worth the trouble of a visit.
These caves are, as is generally the case,
in the centre of a semicircular ridge, as
at DUora. At the distance of 300 yds.
from the foot of the hill on the descent
is reached a beautiful cluster of trees,
of which the principal are two im-
mense specimens of the Indian fig tree.
There are man y other places of interest
to be seen in the hills around. The
journey to Daulatahad from Av/rcmga-
badf 9 m., can be done in one hour and
a half in a tonga with two good horses.
3 m. from Aurangabad is the village of
MUmitha,
It will be necessary to aiTange before-
hand for a relay of horses at Dautata-
bad to get on to Roza {the tomb), 7 m. ,
the same day. Near Daulatabad a
ghat or steep nill is passed, which tries
the horses very much, and sometimes it
is necessary to have coolies, or labourers,
to assist them. Permission must be
obtained from the British station staff-
officer to see the fort of Daulatabad.
Daulatabad (Deogiri) a 13th cent,
fortress, 8 m. from Aurangabad, is
built on a huge isolated conical rock of
granite about 500 ft. high, with a per-
pendicular scarp of from 80 to 120 ft all
round the base. At the base is a strag-
gling patch of houses and huts, which
IS all that remains of the native town.
It is defended by a loop-holed wall
with bastions which on the E. side joins
the scarp of the fort. At the bottom
of the scarp is a ditch, before reaching
which four lines of wall, including the
outside wall of the town, must be
passed. The fosse can be crossed
only in one place by a stone causeway,
so narrow that only two men can obtain
a footing on it abreast, and commanded
on the side near the fort by a battle-
mented outwork. The only means of
ascending the rock is through a narrow
f)assage hewn in the solid stone, and
eading to a large vault in the interior.
From this a ramp or gallery, gradually
sloping upwards, and also excavated
in the solid rock, winds round in the
interior. The first part of the ascent
is easy ; towards the end it is difl&ciilt
The height of the passage averages
from 10 to 12 ft, with an equal breadth,
but it is so dark that torches are requi-
site. The entrance is on the £. side,
past 2 gates armed with very formidable
spikes of iron to resist elephants ; at
the third gate there are 3 Hmdu pillars
and 3 pilasters on either side. Facing
this third ^ate is a bastion 56 ft. high.
It has a balcony or gallery with Hindu
curved supports, and is called the
Nakar Khana, or music gallery. It
has a small window on which are
carved in alto-relievo two leopards like
those in the royal shield of England.
The fourth archway faces to the E.,
and beyond it on the ri^ht is an old
Hindu temple, with a broken lamp
tower 13 ft. high. On the left of the
road is a smul ehattri, or pavilion,
which is the dargah of the Pir-i-Eadus.
Passing along the side of a tank, and
turning to the 1., there is an entrance
to a mosque which was first a Jain
temple and then a place of worship
of Kali. Prayers are said here in
Ramazan, and at the Bakri 'Id, other-
wise it is not used. On the rt of
the central dome, looking W., in a
niche, is a stone covered with a San-
scrit inscription, whitewashed over and
placed on its side. Groing out of the
temple to the N. is a minaret said
to have been erected by the Moham-
medans in commemoration of their
first capture of the place. It was built
in 1435, according to a Persian inscrip-
tion in one of the chambers in the
foundation. From the window above
the third gallery an admirable view is
obtained. The fifth gateway leads to
a platform, which goes partly round
the hill, and has on the rt a building
called the Chini Mahal, in which
Hasan Shah, last king of Golkonda,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ftOUITE 2. BOZA OH RHULDABAD
69
wtt imprisoned for thirteen years.
Ascend here to a bastion, on which is
a eamum indented in two places by
cannon balls. It is caUed Eil'ah Shi-
kan, leveller of forts, and is 21 ft 10
in. long, and the mnzzle has a diameter
of 8 in. It was made by Muhammad
Hasan the Arab. The really difficult
and in former times impregnable part
of the fortress is now entered. Cross-
ing a narrow modem stone bridge, con-
structed to replace the movable planks,
that formerly were the only means of
entering, the ditch that surrounds the
citadel is now passed. To the 1. of the
bridge and overlooking the moat are
the extensive ruins of a Hindu palace
with remains of some excellent carving
in wood and stone. Continuing to
ascend by a flight of steps and rock-
cat passages at the place where the
tufa and limestone strata join, and
eventually emerging from a tunnel, we
reach a platform, and look out over a
garden with immense nests of hornets
hanging from the branches of the trees.
Passing on we come to an opening
covered over with an iron shutter 20
ft. long and 1 in. thick, made in ribs
(part of it is gone), which in case
of siege was heated red hot, so that
if assailants could have penetrated so
far, they would have encountered a fiery
roof quite unapproachable. To provide
ventilation for the fire a large hole has
be^i tuniielled through the rock close
hj. Passing a gateway, and the shrine
of the Fakir Sukh Sultan, we come
toa Barahdari, or pavilion, from which
there is a fine view. It is believed to
have been the residence of the Hindu
Princes of Deogiri, and was a favourite
SDBmer resort of the Emperor Shah
hba.n and his son Aurangzib. The
(arilion has a wide verandah, with a
ndpice of from 100 to 200 ft. in
Bsnt, and a view to Aurangabad on
^ £. and to Roza on the N. In the
ilbction of Aurangabad is the small
iiakted hill of Chaman Tekri, upon
vUch are the ruins of Hindu temples
of great antiquity. 100 steps more
fWBt be climl>ed to reach the Citadel
itself, on a platform 160 ft. x 120 ft.
At the W. comer is a one-gun battery,
60 fL X 30 ft. The gun is 19 ft. 6 in.
long, with a bore of 7 in. On one
bastion is a large gun, cm which is a
Guzerati inscription, saying that the
funds for its construction were provided
by certain Banias, and also a Persian
inscription, naming the gun "Creator of
Storms." Tavemier says that the gun
on the highest platform was raised to its
place under the directions of a European
artilleryman in the service of the Great
Mogul, who had been repeatedly refused
leave to return to his native land, but
was promised it if he could mount
the gun on this spot. Stimulated by the
promise, he at last succeeded.
In the year 1293 'Alan -din, after-
wards Emperor of Delhi, took the city
of Deogiri (Daulatabad). The citadel
still held out. He raised the siege on
receiving an almost incredible ransom,
15,000 lbs. of pure gold, 175 lbs. of
pearls, 50 lbs. of diamonds, and 25,000
lbs. of silver. In 1338 a.d. Muhammad
Shah TugUak attempted to establish
his capitel in the Deccan, removed
the inhabitants of Delhi to Deogiri,
strengthened the fortifications, and
changed the name to Daulatabad. His
plans, however, were finally baffled.
The road (7 m.) to Roza and the
caves of EUora is up the steep hill called
Pipal Ghat. It was paved by one of
Aurangzib's courtiers, as recorded on
two pillars about half-way up the hill,
where there are fine views.
Rosa (or properly Itauza) or Khul-
dabad, 3^ a walled town, 2000 ft above
the sea (2218 inhab.) It is 2 m. from
the caves of Ellora and 14 m. N. W. of
Aurangabad. Tongas or light carts can
be taken up or down the ghats. An
annual Fair is held here on 7th Feb.,
at which thousands of people assemble.
Roza jpossesses a pleasant and tem-
perate climate, and is largely used as a
sanitarium during the summer months.
It is the Kerbekt (a holy shrine) of
the Deccan Mussulmans, and is cele-
brated as the burial-place of many
distinguished Mohammedans, amongst
whom are the Emperor Aurangzib and
his second son, Azim Shah ; Asaf Jah,
the founder of the Hyderabad dynasty ;
Nasir Jung, his second son ; Malik
Ambar, the powerful minister of the last
ofthe Nizam Shahi kings; ThanahShah,
70
ltOUl?E 2. BOMBAt (t?0 AURANGABAD
India
the exiled and imprisoned kinc of Gol-
konda ; and a host of minor celebrities.
Roza once contained a considerable
population, but the place is now in
great part deserted. It is surrounded by
a high stone wall (built by Aurangzib)
with battlements and loopholes. Old
and ruinous mosques and tombs abound
in every direction on each side of the
road.
Midway between the N. and S. gates
of the city is the MauBolemu of Aur-
angsib. An ascent of 30 yds. leads to
the domed porch and gateway, erected
about 1760 by a celebrated dancing girl
of Auraneabad : within it is a large
quadrangle. Some of the surrounding
buildings are used as rest-houses for
travellers, and one as a school. In the
centre of the S. side is an exquisite little
Nakar Khana, or music hall, from the
galleries of which music is played when
festivals or fairs are celebrated. The
W. side is occupied by a large mosque,
the roof of which is supported on scal-
loped arches. Facing the N. end of
the mosque is a small open gateway
leading into an inner courtyard, in the
S.E. an^le of which is the door of
Aurangzib's tomb itself. Above the
door is a semicircular screen of carved
wood. The grave, which is uncovered,
lies in the middle of a stone platform
raised about half a foot from tne floor.
It is overshadowed by the branches of
a tree (Bukuli) which bears sweet-
smelling flowers, otherwise it is quite
open to sun and rain, as it should be,
according to orthodox Mohammedan
ideas. This emperor, who was a man
of austere piety, is said before his death
to have desired that his sepulchre
should be poor and unpretentious, in
accordance with the tenets of the
Koran. The tomb is plain almost to
meanness, from which it is only
redeemed by the beauty of the delicate
marble screen, 5 ft. high, which encloses
the lower portion on the W. side. It
is a remarkable circumstance that he,
who had erected such a magnificent
mausoleum over his wife Rabi'a Durani
at Aurangabad, should have desired
such a lowly sepulchre himself ; but it
is generally believed that his son, Azim
Shah, who was near him at the time of
his death, and his courtiers, religiously
obeyed his wish in intening his remnins
in this manner, and in a place sanctified
by the tomb of a celebrated Moh&m-
medan saint. He is said to have
"desired in his will that his funeral
expenses should be defrayed from the
proceeds of caps which he had quilted
and sold, and this amount did not
exceed 10s. ; while the proceeds of the
sale of his copies of the Koran, 805 is.,
were distributed to the poor."
Fifteen or twenty paces to the R of
Aurangzib's tomb is a small quadran-
gular enclosure of marble, withm which
are three graves, the one on the right
being that of the daughter of the
Mohammedan saint buried close by ;
the next that of Azim Shah, Aurang-
zib's second son, attached to which is
a small marble headstone carved with
floral devices ; and the one beyond is
the grave of Azim Shah's wife. The
whole is surrounded by a plain screen
of white marble. Midway between
these tombs and that of Aurangzib is
the Mausoleum of Sayyad Zainu-din,
on the E. side of which are inscribed a
number of verses from the Koran, and
the date of the Saiyad's death, 1370 a.d.
This tomb, however, was erected many
years after that period by one of his
disciples. The doors of the shrine
are inlaid with silver plates of some
thickness ; the steps below it are em-
bellished with a number of cuiiously cut
and polished stones, said to have been
brought here from time to time by
fakirs and other religious devotees of
the shrine. A little distance to the
rear of this tomb is a small room built
in an angle of the courtyard wall, which
is said to contain the robe of the
Prophet Mohammed. It is carefully
preserved under lock and key, and is
only exhibited to the gaze of the
faithful once a year, the 12th Rabia-l-
Awal (March).
Opposite the tombs of Aurangzib
and his son is that of Asaf Jah, the
first of the Nizams of Hyderabad.
The entrance is through a large quad-
rangle, having open-fronted builaings
on all sides, and a Nakar Khana, or
music hall, at the R end. The W.
end is used as a school for instruction
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 2. THE CAVES OF ELLORA
71
in the Koran. A door at this end
giv^es access to an inner courtyard in
which are a number of graves. Facing
the entrance are the shrines of Asaf
Jah and one of his consorts, surrounded
bj a lattice screen of red sandstone,
and that of Sayyad EazraJt Burhanu-
(Hn, a saint of great renown amongst
Mohammedans, who died at Roza,
1344. The Sayyad is said to have
left Upper India with 1400 disciples
a few years before the first invasion
of the Deccan by 'Alau-din, 1294,
for the purpose of propagating the
tenets of his faith amongst the Hindus
of this portion of India. Deposited
within the shrine are some hairs of the
Prophet's beard, which are said to in-
crease yearly in number. The shrine,
however, boasts of a still more remark-
able treasure, which is described by the
attendants as follows : "For some years
after its erection, the disciples of the
Saiyad were without means to keep it
in repair, or to provide themselves with
the necessaries of life. Supplication
to the deceased saint, however, pro-
duced the following remarkable pheno-
menon. During the night smaU trees
of silver grew up through the pavement
on the S. side of the shrine, and were
regularly removed every morning by
the attendants. They were broken up
and sold in the bazaars, and with the
proceeds thus realised the Saiyad's dis-
ciples were enabled to maintain the
wine and themselves. This remark-
able production of silver is said to have
continued for a number of years, until
a small jagir was allotted to the shrine,
once which time the pavement has
only yielded small buds of the precious
netai, which appear on the surface at
Bight and recede during the day." In
proof of these assertions the visitor is
ibwn a number of small lumps of
liver on the surface of the pavement.
The shrine doors are covered with plates
ofwhite and yellow metal wrought into
designs of trees and flowers.
Small game is plentiful in this neigh-
hoarhood.
24 m. from Bozais the native village
of Kvnhur, in the fertile valley of the
Sinna. 20 m. farther is Chalisgaon,
Oft the G.I. P. Rly.
The OftYds of Bllora.^
Ellora {Elura or VenU), « about 1^
m. from Boza, a village in the Nizam's
Dominions. Distant N. W. fix)m Auran-
gabad 14 m., from Drulatabad 7 m.
Pop. 742. The village is partly walled,
and contains a Mohammedan shrine
famed throughout the Deooan for its
marvellous healing powers. Ellora is
famous for its highly remarkable series of
rock-caves and temples, situated in a
crescent-shaped hUl or plateau. They are
first mentioned by Ma'sudi, the Arabic
geographer of the 10th cent., but merely
as a celebrated place of pilgrimage. They
were visited in 1306 by Ala-ud-din or
his generals, when, as Dow {History of
Hindostan) relates, the capture occurred
of a Hindu princess of Guzerat, who was
here in concealment from the Moham-
medans, but was afterwards carried to
Delhi and married to the emperor's son.
Contrasting the caves of Ellora
and Ajanta, Mr. Fergusson writes:
*' Architecturally the Ellora caves
differ from those of Ajanta, in con-
sequence of their being excavated in
the sloping sides of a hill, and not
in a nearly perpendicular cliff. From
this formation of the ground almost all
the caves at Ellora have courtyards in
front of them. Frequently also an
outer wall of rock, with an entrance
through it, left standing, so that the
caves are not generally seen from the
outside at all, and a person might pass
along their front without being aware
of their existence, unless warned of the
fact." The caves extend along the face
of the hill for IJ m. They are divided
into three distinct series, the Buddhist,
the Brahmanical, and the Jain, and are
arranged almost chronologically.
"The caves," writes Dr. Burgess,
"are excavated in the face of a hill, or
rather the scarp of a large plateau, and
ran nearly N. and S. for about IJ m.,
the scarp at each end of this interval
throwing out a horn towards the W.
It is where the scarp at the S. end
begins to turn to the W. that the
eaniest caves — a group of Buddhistic
ones — are situated, and in the N. horn
is the Indra Sabha or Jain group, at
1 Ellora is 45 m. from Nandgaon sta. The
road passes (9 m.) Deogaon (D.B.), see p. 66.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
72-
ROUTE 2. BOMBAY TO AURANGABAD
India
the other extremity of the series. The
ascent of the ghat passes up the S. side
of Kailas, the third of the Brahmanical
group, and over the roof of the Das
Avatar, the second of them. Sixteen
caves lie to the S. of Kailas, and nearly
as many to the N., but the latter are
scattered over a greater distance.
"Most of the caves have got dis-
are 5 at the extreme N. There are
also some cells and a colossal Jain image
on the N. side of the same spur in
which is the Indra Sabha." Amongst
the Buddhist, the most important are
the Dherwara, the oldest ; the THsh-
wakarma, or Carpenter's Cav& a
Ghaitya with a ribbed roof, a parallelo-
gram about 85 ft. long ; the I>oii Tal (2
The Dherwara.
tiuguishiug names from the Brahmans ;
but it may be quite as convenient, for
the sake of reference, to number them
from S. to N., beginning with the
Buddhistic caves, of which there are
12, and passing through the Brah-
manical series, of which 17 are below
the brow of the scarp, and a large
number of smaller ones above, and end-
ing with the Jain caves, of which there
The Kftflas.
storeyed, really 3); and Tin Tal (3
storeys). The Das Ayatar is the oldest
of the Brahmanical series. The great
hall is 143 ft. long, and is supported
by 46 pillars.
The most splendid of the whole series
is the Kailas, a perfect Dravidian
temple, complete in all its parts, char-
acterised by Fergusson as one of the
most wonderful and interesting monu-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 3. BHUSAWAL
n
ments of arohitectaral art in India.
" It is not a mere interior chamber cut
in the rock," continaes Mr. Fergusson,
"but is a model of a complete temple
soch as might have been erected on the
plain. In other words, the rock has
been cut away externally as well as
internally." This temple is said to
have been excavated about the 8th cent
by R^a Elu of EUichpur— but the s^le
and other evidence point to its havmg
been constructed in the reisn of Danti-
durga, the Bashtrakuta king, 730-755
A.]>. Dedicated to Shiva, it is surrounded
with figures also of Vishnu and the
whole Puranic pantheon. The interior,
and parts at least, of the exterior have
been painted. Unlike any of the pre-
ceding cave-temples, Kailas is a ^eat
monoUthic temple, isolated from sur-
rounding rock, and profusely carved out-
aide as well as in. It stands in a great
court averaging 154 ft. wide by 276 ft.
long at the level of the base, entirely cut
out of the solid rock, and with a scarp
107 ft high at the back. In front of
this court a curtain has been left, carved
cm the outside with the monstrous forms
of Shiva and Vishnu and their congeners,
and with rooms inside it. It is pierced
in the centre by an entrance passage
with rooms on each side. Passing this,
tile visitor is met by a large sctupture
«f Lakshmi over the lotuses, with her
^ndant elephants. As we enter, to
right and left is the front portion of
the court, which is a few teet lower
than the rest, and at the N. and S. ends
of which stand two gigantic elephants,
7-that on the S. mucn mutilated. Turn-
ing again to the £. and ascending a few
steps, we enter the ^eat hall of the
temple. In front of it, and connected
bya bridee, is a mandapam for the Nandi
Mi, and on each side of this mandapam
stands a pillar, 45 ft. high. On the N.
side of tne court is a series of excava-
tims in two tiers with finely sculptured
ifflars. Another magnificent Brahmani-
eil cave temple is that of Dumar Lena,
aasoring 150 ft. each way. ** One of
t^ finest Hindu excavations existing."
Irom here a footpath leads to
f (1 nt) the fine series of Jain caves, the
^ Jsgaianath, and Indra Sabhas, at the
I H. end.
ROUTE 3
Bhusawal via Nagpttr to Calcutta
(G.I. P. and Bengal-Nagpur Rlys.)
By this line a new route from
Bombay to Calcutta (1278 m., or about
126 m. shorter than any other) is
opened up. It is not probable that
this line will be much used for through
passenger traffic, because it takes two
hours longer than the route via Jub-
bul^re ; but it taps an immense
temtory of the Central Provinces which
has hitherto been inaccessible to ex-
ternal trade, and provides an outlet foi
the great wheat and seed-producing
district of ChaUisgarhf "the granary
of India. " The scenery in parte of the
line, notably at Dare Kassa^ Dongar-
garhf and Saranda, is very fine.
The route from Bombay to
276 m. Bhusawal junc (B.) is de-
scribed in Rte. 1.
Soon after leaviiig Bhusawal the
traveller enters the Province of Berar
(pop. 2,896,670), which continues
almost all the way to Nagpur. It
belongs to H.H. the Nizam, but was
assigned to the British bv a treaty, in.
1853, for the support of the Hyderabad
Contingent force. This treaty was
remodelled in December 1860, by
which, for the Nizam's services in the
Mutiny of 1857, his debt of 50 lakhs
was cancelled, the districts of Dharaseo
and the Raichur Doab were restored,
and the confiscated territory of Shola-
pur was ceded to him.
The traveller cannot fail to be struck
with the fertility of this Province,
which is one of the richest and most
extensive cotton-fields in India. The
soil is black loam overlying basalt.
The rainfall is regular and abundant,
and at harvest-time the whole surface
is one immense waving sheet of crops.
The districts into which Berar is
divided are Akola, Amraoti, EUchpur,
Buldana, Wun, and Basim.
333 m. Jalamb junc. sta.
[Branch 8 m. S. to Khamgaon sta.,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
74
ROUTE 3. BHUSAWAt TO CALCUTTA
India
where there is an important cotton-
mart.]
340 m. Sheagaon sta. (R.), D.B.
363 m. Akola sta. is the head-
quarters station of the West Berar
district of that name.
[A road from Akola runs S. 72 m. to
the important town and military station
of Hingoli. About 30 m. from Akola
is the town of Mekar^ and 15 m. S. of
Mekar is a celebrated soda lake called
LonaVf formed in the crater of an extinct
volcano. The salt is used for washing
and dyeing purposes, and is exported
in considerable quantities. The area
of the Akola district is 2659 sq. m.,
pop. 692,800.]
413 m. Badnera June. sta. (R.), D.B.
[Br. 6 m. N. to Amraoti sta. (R.),
D.B. Both places have cotton-marts,
and there are cotton-gins and ware-
houses. Amraoti is the headquarters
of the district of that name, and has
the usual public offices attached to a
civil station.]
472 m. Wardha June. sta. (R.), D.B.
The chief town of the most westerly
district of the Central Provinces. The
place is auite modern, dating only from
1866, and is a considerable cotton-mart.
Here is a Medical Mission of the Free
Church of Scotland, with fine hospital
and leper asylum.
[Branch S. to the Warora coal-fields.
21 ro. Hinganghat sta., D.B., a very
important old cotton-market.
45 m. Warora terminus sta., a
town in the Chanda district of the
Central Provinces, and a considerable
cotton -mart Close to Warora are
mines of fairly good coal ; 3000 tons a
month have been supplied to the rail-
way, the yearly out-turn has been
about 100,000 tons.
30 m. S.E. of Warora is Chanda,
D.B., reached by a good road. This
place is the headquarters of the Chanda
district. Too far off the main lines of
commnnication to be visitBd by harried
travellers, it is yet a most attractive
spot. The town is surrounded by a
continuous wall of cut stone 5J m. in
circuit. Inside the walls are detached
villages and cultivated fields. The
foliage is beautiful and there are ex-
tensive forest -preserves near. The
tombs of the Gond kings, and the
temples of Achaleswar, Maha Kali, and
Murlidhar, are all worth a visit. At
LcUpet, in the town, a large spa^e is
covered with monolith figures of gigtn-
tic size which appear to have been pre-
pared for some great temple never
erected. Cunningham, in reviewing
the travels of Hiouen Thsang in South-
em India in the 7th century, con-
siders that Chanda has a strong claim
to be considered the capital of the
kingdom of Maha-Eosala. Here a
traveller would see the Gonds, a people
differing from the surrounding popula-
tion in religion, language, ana race.]
520 m. Nagpur,3^ is the capital
of the Central Provinces, which have an
area of 112,912 sq. m. (pop. 10,761,630).
The district of iTagpur itself has an
area of 8786 sq. m. Among the in-
habitants are upwards of 2,000,000 of
aboriginescalled Gonds ; andof these the
hill-tribes have black skins, flat noses,
and thick lips. A cloth round the waist
is their chief garment The religious
belief varies from village to villa^.
Nearly all worship the cholera and tne
small-pox, and there are traces of serpent
worship.
The ancient history of the Province
is very obscure. In the 6th century
A.D. a race of foreigners, Vavanas^
ruled from the Satpura plateau, and
between the 10th and 13th centuries,
Rajputs of the Lunar Race governed
the country round Jubbulpore, and the
Pramars of Malwa ruled territory
S. of the Satpuras. The Chanda
dynasty of Gonds reigned probably
as early as the 10th or 11th cen-
tury, and the Haihayas of Chattis-
garh were of ancient date. In 1898
A.D. there were princes reigning at
Kherla, on the Satpura plateau, and
Ferishtah says '* they possessed all the
hills of Gondwana." In 1467 they
were conquered by the Bahmani
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ROUTE 3. NAGPUR
75
kings. The next century the Gronds
again rose to power, but in 1741 the
Maratha Bhonsias inraded the country.
In 1818 the English annexed the
Saugar and Nerbudda territories, and
in 1853 Nagpur and other districts,
which in 1861 Lord Canning formed
into the Central Provinces.
Nagpur, situated on the small stream
called the Nag (pop. 117,900), is the
headquarters of the administration of
the Central Provinces, The munici-
pality includes, besides the city, the
suburb and the European station of
Sit^tbaldi. In the centre stands Sita-
baldi Hill, crowned mth the fort of the
same name, which commands a fine
view. Below to the N. and W. is the
prettily wooded civil station of Nagpur.
Beyond to the N. are the military lines
and bazaars, and beyond these the
suburb of Taklit once the headquarters
of the Nagpur Irregular force. There
is a fine new Residency on Takli Hill,
but the Chief Commissioner resides
chiefly at Pachmari on the Satpuras.
Close under the S. side of the hill is the
native suburb of Sitabaldi. Below the
glacis is the railway station ; beyond is
the Jumma Talao, a large tank ; and
more to the E. is the city, hidden in
foliage. Three great roads lead from the
European station to the city, one on
the N. and one on the S. bank of the
tank ; the third, which is the most N.
of all, crosses the railway by a bridge
to the N. of the station. Besides the
Jumma Talao, there are two other fine
tanks, the Ambajhari and Telingkheri,
in the neighbourhood. The chief
gardens are the Maharaj Bagh, in
Sitabaldi, the Tulsi Bagh, inside the
aty, and the Paldi, Shakardara, Sona-
pon, and Telingkheri in the suburbs.
The traveller will remember that
Kagpur is famous for its delicious
Manges, large numbers of which are
tiported during the first three months
rf the year. His first visit may be to the
Sitabaldi Eill, Here, on the 26th and
^th of November 1817, the Maratha
troops of the Bhonsla Raja, Apa Sahib,
attacked the Resident, Mr., afterwards
Sir R. Jenkins, and the few troops he
had been able to assemble. After a
desperate engagement, during which
the Marathi at one time got possession
of one of the two eminences of the
Sitabaldi Hill, the English were at
length victorious. The Resident was
then joined by fresh troop, and de-
manded the surrender of the Raja and
the disbandmeut of his army. This
latter point was only obtained after a
second battle, in which the Marathi
were completely routed.
Apa Sahib escaped and died in exile.
A child was raised to the throne under
the title of Raghoji III., and on his
death, in 1853, the country was annexed
by the British. On the 13th of June
1857 the native cavalry conspired with
the Mohammedans of the city to rise
against the British, but the infantry
continued loyal, and arrested tlie native
oflScers sent to them by the cavalry.
The Bhonsla Palace^ built of black
basalt and richly ornamented with
wood carving, was burnt dovm in 1864,
only the Nakar Khana, or music hall,
remains.
Thence the traveller may proceed to
the Tombs of the Bhonsla Bajas, in
the Shukrawari quarter, to the S. of
the cit^. The markets are in the
Gurganj Square and Gachi Pagar, and
take place once a week in each. In
the city are also the Small Cause Court
and the Magistrate's Court. Tlie Cen-
tral Jail is an important institution.
The old Besidencyy where the Chief
Commissioner formerly resided, and
the Secretariat, are at Sitabaldi. There
is a small detachment from the English
regiment at Kampti garrisoning the
fort, and there are also the head-
quarters and wing of a N.I. regiment.
The city and civil station are well
supplied with water from the Ambajhari
reservoir, and the station roads are lined
with beautiful trees. There is a hand-
some English church, and a large
Roman Catholic cathedral and school,
and an important branch of the Missions
of the Free Church of Scotland, with
the Hislop College, two hospitals for
men and women, and a fine Marathi
church.
The Great Indian Peninsula Railway
terminates at Nagpur, and from this
point E. towards Calcutta the line
belongs to the Bengal-Nagpur Railway.
Digitized by CiOOglC
76
ROUTB 3. BHUSAWAL TO OALCtJTTA
Iniia
529 m. Kampti D.B. A large town
and military cantonment on the right
bank of the Eanhan river, which is
spanned by ahandsomestone bridge that
cost £90, 000. Close to it is the railway
bridge, a fine iron structure that cost
£100,000. Pop. 51,000. Kampti dates
only from the establishment of the
military station in 1821, and for about
fifty years it was governed entirely by
the military authorities. The neigh-
bouring city of Nagpur during the
greater part of this time was the capital
of the state, and the residence of a
Maratha court. No more striking evi-
dence could be adduced of the just and
moderate tone of the army administra-
tion than the rapid growth of this place.
The roads are broad and well laid out.
The English church was built in
1833, and there is a highly useful
Roman Catholic establishment of the
order of St. Francis de Sales with a
church and convent, where good educa-
tion is given to a class of children who
would otherwise be neglected. There
are 5 mosques and 70 Hindu temples.
559 m. Bhandaxa Boadsta.,.D.6., is
about 6im. from the town, which is close
to the Wainganga river. It is the head-
quarters of a district of the same name,
and contains the usual public offices,
schools, and institutions. Pop. 11,000.
Between Bhandara and Nagpur few of
the richer natives ever mount a horse,
they ride astride on the pole of a very
light two-wheeled ox-cart called a ringi.
The oxen for these carts are a special
breed, very small and active, and cap-
able of sustaining a trot equal to the
pace of an ordinary carriage horse.
Here is the B. Barbour Medical Mission
of the Free Church of Scotland.
615 m. Amgaon sta. (R.)
From 624 m. Salekasa sta. to
647 m. Dongai^^h sta. (R.), the line
passes through hUls and heavy bamboo
jungles, and through a pass with a
tunnel at the summit. The jungle
near this tunnel is famous for ^ner-
ally having a man-eating tiger in it.
During the construction of the railway
a large number of natives were killed
here, and victims have more recently
been carried ofl*. Large game of all
1 beei
sorts abounds. Don^rgarh is a lirge
engine-changing station, with a oon-
sidemble European population con-
nected with the railway. The ruins of
a fort are on the N.E. face of a detached
hill, some 4 m. in circuit. Inside the
fortified space there are tanks for water
supply, but no buildings.
708 m. Baipur sta. The chief town
of a district of the same name, the
residence of the commissioner of CPujUtis-
garh, and a small military cantonment
The usual offices will be found. The
old town was to the S. and W. of the
present one, which was laid out by
Colonel Agnew in 1830. The pop. is
25,000. The town is surrounded by
tanks and groves of trees, which form
its attraction. The Fort was built by
Raja Bhuraneswar Sing in 1460, and
in its time was a very strong work.
Its outer wall is nearly 1 m. in cir-
cumference. Large quantities of stone
were used in its construction, though
no quarries exist in the neighbourhoM.
The Burha Tankf on the S., the same
age as the Fort, covered nearly 1 sq. m.
In later improvements it has been
reduced in extent The public gardens
are on its K shore. The Maharaj
Tank was constructed by a revenue
farmer in the times of the Marathas,
and close to it is the temple of Ram-
chandra, built in 1775 by Bhimbaji
Bhonsla. There are several other reser-
voirs in the suburbs ; and in the centre
of the town is the Kankali tank, con-
structed of stone throughout, at the
close of the 17th century.
776 m. BUaspur junc. sta. (R.).
This place is a large engine-changing
centre.
[Branch N.W. throngha mountainous
district and the coal-fields of Umaria
to 198 m. Katni junc. on the E. I. RIy.
(p. 86). This branch passes at Pendra
sta., under the Aniarkant»alr plateau
(4000 ft) where the Nerbudda has its
source. There are several temnles
and a **khund" or reservoir enclos-
ing the head spring. The plateau
is frequented by the " tirath wwis,"
and other pilgrims.]
The traveller enters the province of
Chattisgarh about Amgaon, 95 m. £.
of Nagpur, and continues in it to about
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 3. RATANPUR
iUigarh station, at 334 m. The people
of this country still consider themselves
a septrate nationality, and always call
themaelves ChaitUgaris, The Bajas
of Batanpor raled originally over their
36 forts, each the chief place of a
district; but abont 750 A.D., the
kingdom was divided into two, and a
separate raja ruled in Raipur. Ealyan
Sdii, who ruled between 1536 and
1573, went to Delhi and made his
submission to the great Akbar, and
this prudent conduct resulted in the
Haihaya rulers retaining their country
until the Maratha invasion in 1740.
The district, which is regarded as
oneof the richestcom-growing countries
in the world, and is known as the
"granary of India," is in the shape of
a vast amphitheatre opening to the S.
on the plains of Raipur, but on every
other side surrounded by tiers of hills.
About 15 m. E. of Bilaspur is the
precipitous hill ofDahla^ 2600 ft. high,
affording a grand view.
[12 m. N. of Bilaspur is Batanpor,
or Rnttunpur, the old capital of the
formerly self-contained kingdom of
ChaUisgarh, or the S6 Forts, in which
is included the districts of Raipur and
Klaspur. The town lies in a hollow
surrounded by the Eenda hills. It
ceased to be the capital in 1787, but
the crumbling arches of the old fort,
the broken walls of the ancient palace,
tnd the half-filled-up moat which sur-
rounded the city, recall its former con-
^on. The population is under 6000.
The Brahmans of Ratanpur are still the
leaders of their class all over Chattis-
garh. The town covers an area of 15
v{. m., and contains within its limits
I forest of mango trees, with numerous
tanks and temples scattered amidst
fteir shade, l^iixed up with temples,
peat blocks of masonry of uniform
ihape commemorate distinguished satis
[tuUees). The most prominent of these
is near the old fort, where a largo build-
ing records that there in the middle of
tfi 17th century 20 ranis of Raja
Ukshman Sahi devoutly fulfilled tne
duty of self-immolation. Kota sta. on
the Eatni branch is a few miles from
Ratanpur.]
Before reaching
809 m. Champa sta. the 1 >
is crossed. The stream cuts w.
fields of Korba, some 20 m. N. ot ^^
railway ; and in the jungles on its banks
are to be found some of the few herds
of wild elephants still roaming through
the forests of the Central Provinces.
The line continues £. through a
thinly-inhabited flat country to
890 m. Belpahan sta., on leaving
which the Eeb river, which flows S.
into the Mahanadi river, is crossed by
a considerable bridge. The scenery at
the crossing is very fine.
903 m. IharBiigada juno. sta.
[Branch for the civil and military
station of Sambalpur, distant 30 m. ;
whence, at different times, diamonds
have been exported to a considerable
value. They are said to be found in the
bed of the Mahanadi up-stream from
the town, but whether the source of
supply is the Mahanadi or the Eeb
river is perhaps not clearly known.]
From Tharsuguda the railway takes
a N.E. course, and continuing tiirough
a well-inhabited plain country to
916 m. Bagdeni sta., it enters the
hills, in which it continues until the
plains of Bengal are reached.
936 m. Ctarpos sta. Hereabouts the
forests are very dense, and in the rainy
season they are largely resorted to by
wild elephants. Between
947 m. Konmarkela sta. and
945 m. Bonrkela sta. near Kalunga,
the Brahmini river is crossed. The
natives here earn a very fair living by
washing the river-sands for gold. The
view up-stream is very grand when the
river is in flood.
991 m. Honarpur sta. Here the
railway enters the Saranda forests,
which contain some of the finest Sal
trees {Shorea robusta) in India. The
line winds round hills, passing close
under them on both sides. The sum-
mit of the range is reached through a
heavy cutting leading into a tunnel.
During the construction of the Bengal-
Nagpur Railway through these forests
and heavy jungles very great diflSculty
was experienced in procuring labour,
as they have a very had reputation for
unheal thiness. The few inhabitants
d by Google
ROUTE 4. KHANDWA TO AJMERE
India
these wilds are nearly all Kols, an
aboriginal race.
1015 m. fitonoa sta. is only 2 m.
from Farahat, the principal town of
what was formerly a separate Zamin-
dari state of the same name.
In 1857 Anan Sing the last Riga of
Parahat rebelled, and was sentenced to
imprisonment for life at Benares. The
estate of Parahat was confiscated, and
is now under the management of
Government.
1028 m. Chakardarpnr sta. Here
the hills recede. The country is well
cultivated. This is a considerable rail-
way settlement and engine-changing
station. A good road connects Chak-
ardarpur wiui Ranchi and the Chota-
Nagpur plateau.
Ghota-Nagpur is the seat of a Mis-
sionary Bishop of the Church of
England, who has a handsome Church
and good Schools and Native Mission in
the town of Ranchi : there are com-
munities of Christian Kols^ the result
of extensive S.P.G. missions, conducted
by a brotherhood from Trinity College,
Dublin.
[Chaibaia, a civil station, is distant
about 16 m. to the S. A great fair is
held here at Christmas-time, to which
the people of the country flock.
Athletic sports, races, and national
dances take place on the last day of
the year, and no better opporhmity
can be taken for seeing the people.
1062 m.Gha]idil sta. Before this place
is reached, the hills again close in on
the line. Dalma HiU, 3407 ft. above
sea-level, is seen 12 m. £. It is from
the country about here that the labour-
ers for the tea-cultivation in Upper
Assam and Cachar are mainly recruited.
1095 m. Pumlia sta. The ^head-
quarters of the Manbhum District,
through which the traveller has been
passing for many miles. The place
has nearly 10,000 inhabitants and the
usual offices of a civil station. From
here also a road runs to Ranchi.
1147 m. ABenaol junc sta. [Branch
of about 10 m. W. to the coal-mines.]
About 6 m. before Asensol is reached
the river Damuda is crossed on a very
line bridge. From Asensol to Calcutta,
a distance of 132 miles, the traveller
proceeds by the East Indian Railway.
(See p. 61.)
ROUTE 4
Ehandwa to Ajmere (Rajputana
and Malwa Metre Rly.)
From Bombay 853 m. Khandwa junc ita.
The traveller is here transferred to tiie
metre-gauge line.
At 38 m., Hortakka sta., D.B., the
Nerbudda river is crossed by a fine
bridge, with a cart-road under the rails.
This neighbourhood abounds in large
game of every sort
[A good cart road of 6 m. leads to
Unkazji, a place quite worth visiting.
The best mode of transit is by river
in one of the large flat-bottomed boats
found at Mortakka, where there is
accommodation for Europeans at the
Serai. The stream is ascended before
the westerly breeze, and is descended
by oars with the aid of the current
Provisions must be taken. The country
is wild, wooded, and the scenery on t3ie
river very beautiful,
Unkarji is more properly Omkarji,
from the mystic syllable Om (au
ejaculation used at the beginning
of a prayer). The Oreai Temple oj
Omkar is situated in the island of
Mandhata in the Nerbudda. It is said
that the island was ori^ally called
Baidurya Mani Parvat, but its name
was changed to Mandhata as a boon
from Shiva to Raja Mandhatri, the 17th
monarch of the Solar Race, who per-
formed a great sacrifice here to that
deity.
The area of the isle is about five-
sixths of a sq. m., and a deep ravine
cuts it from N. to S. At the N. the
ground slopes gently, but terminates
at the S. and E. in precipices 500 ft.
high. At this point the S. bank of
the Nerbudda is equally steep, and
between the cliffs the river is exceed-
ingly deep, and full of alligators and
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ROUTE 4. UNKARJI
79
large fish. Hunter says that the N.
branch of the Nerbudda is called the
Kareri, and it is believed that a stream
80 called enters the Nerbudda 1 m.
higher up, passes unmixed through it,
and again leaves it at Mandhata, thus
making it a double junction of two
holy rivers.
On both sides of the river the rocks
are of a greenish hue, very boldly
stratified. It is said that the Temple
of Omkar and that of Amreshwar on
the S. bank of the river are two of the
twelve great temples which existed in
India when Mahmud of Ghazni des-
troyed Somnath in 1024 a.d. During
the wars of the 17th and 18th centuries,
the S. banks were deserted and over-
grown with jungle, and when the
Peshwa desired to repair the temple it
could not be found, so a new one was
built, with a group of smaller ones.
Afterwards part of it was found, and
the late Raja Mandhata built a temple
over it ; but its sanctity and even its
name have been appropriated by that
which the Peshwa built.
The Raja Mandhata, who is hered-
itary custodiuu of the temples, is a
Bhilala, who claims to be 28th de-
scendant of the Ohauhan Bharat Sing,
who took Mandhata from Nathu Bhil
in 1165 A.D. The old temples have
suffered from the Mohammedans, and
every dome has been overturned and
every fimire mutilated. The gateways
are finely carved. The oldest temple in
that on the Birkhala rocks at the £.
Old, where devotees used to cast them-
idves over the cliflfs up till the year
1824, when the custom was abandoned.
The temple consists of a courtyard,
with a vei-andah and colonnades sup-
ported by massive pillai-s boldly carved.
On the hill are the niins of a very fine
Ttmple to Siddeshvara Mahademty which
aiood on a plinth 10 ft. high. Round
tie plinth was a frieze of elephants, 5
ft. high, carved in relief with remark-
aWe skill, on slabs of yellow sandstone,
hat all but two of the elephants ai-e
mutilated.
In front of the Temple to Oauri Som-
neUh is an inmiense bull carved in a fine
«fre«ii stone, and 100 yds. farther is a
pillar 20 ft. long. On the island itself
all the temples are Shivite, but on the
N. bank of the Nerbudda are some old
temples to Vishnu, and a group of Jain
temples. Where the river bifurcates
are some ruined gateways, and a large
building on which are 24 figures of
Vishnu, well carved in green stone.
Among them is a lar^ figure of the
boar Avatar. On an image of Shiva,
in the same building, is the date 1346
A.D. Farther down the bank, in the
Ravana ravine, is a prostrate figure
18} ft. long, with ten arms holding
clubs and skulls. On its chest is a
scorpion, and at its right side a rat,
and one foot rests on a prostrate human
figure.
The bed of the ravine is covered with
huge basalt blocks slightly carved.
The Jain Temples stand on an eminence
a little back from the river. The
largest is on a plinth of basalt, 5 ft.
high. The £. wall is still complete.
On each side of the doorway is a ngure
with Shivite and Jain emblems curi-
ously intermixed. The hills near these
temples, as well as the island, are
covered with remains of habitations.
A great fair is held at the end of
October, attended by 15,000 persons.
According to a prophecy, the fulfilment
of which the Brahmans at Mandhata
anxiously expect, the sanctity of the
Ganges will soon expire and be trans-
ferrw. to the Nerbudda. The scenery
around the island is beautiful.]
58 m. CHunral sta. From this point
the ascent of the ghat commences and
continues almost into Mhow. The
scenery is very fine. On approaching,
71 m., Fatal Paai sta. look out on the
1. for the waterfall of that name.
74 m. Mhow sta. (R.), D.B., in the
territory of Holkar, an important mili-
tary cantonment of British and native
troops, headquarters of a first-class
district command, 1900 ft. above
sea-level, pop. 27,000. Troops are
stationed here as provided in theTreaty
of Mandsaur of 1818. Mhow has no
special interest for a traveller. The
buildings and institutions are those
common to all places where troops are
stationed.
[From Mhow an expedition of 30 m.
may be made S.W. to the ruined city
Digitized by VjOOQIC
80
ROUTE 4. KHANDWA TO AJMERE
India
of Mandu, the ancient capital of the
kingdom of Malwa. It is in the terri-
tory of the Maharaja of Dhar, and
the best route is by tonga or carriage
to the town of Dhar (10 m.), taking an
introduction &om the political agent
to the Maharaja, who will then make
arrangements for the remaining 20 m.
of the journey. Dhar is a walled town
of some historical and archseolo^ical
interest, containing several ruined
mosques.
Another route, avoiding Dhar, passes down
the main road for about 10 m., and then
strikes off into the country past Nal(^,
where the ruins commence. A tent is neces-
sary. Small game shooting may be obtained
alon^ the road, but it is advisable to get per-
mission from tiie general at Mhow, or at any-
rate to inform the agent at Dhar.
Mandu (1944 ft.) occupies 8 m. of
ground, extending along the crest of
the Vindhyas; and is separated from
the tableland, with which it is on a
level, by a valley. The traveller can
pass the night in one of the temples,
if he does not object to bats and bad
air, but he will do better to take a tent
with him and camp beyond the village,
near the Jumma Musjid, on the verge
of the great lake. Paths have been cut
through the jungle to all the ruins of
interest, the chief being the Jumma
Muy'id, less injured than any of the
others, and said to be the finest and
largest specimen of Afghan architecture
extant in India ; the Fort^ the Water
Faktce, the marble Mausoleum of Ho-
shamg Ohor% King of Malwa, who
raised the city to great splendour ; and
the Palace of Baz Bahadur, another
king of Malwa. These once magni-
ficent buildings are still, in their
ruined state, very striking on account
of their massive proportions. The
fortifications were constructed by
Hoshang Ghori, who reigned in the
beginning of the 15th cent., and in
whose time the city attained its greatest
splendour. In 1526 Mandogarh was
taken by Bahadur Shah, ruler of 6u-
zerat, and annexed to his dominions, of
which it remained part until their con-
quest by Akbar in 1570. Of late years
measures have been taken for the preser-
vation of some of the most interesting
ruins. According to Malcolm, Mandu
was founded in 313 A.D. Its history
(written by a resident of Dhar) should
be looked at before visiting the place.
It will be found full of interest for any
one who is at all acquainted with the
ancient history of Malwa. Sir Thomas
Roe, the Ambassador of James L of
England, entered Mandu in the train
of Jehangir, part of the triumphal
procession of the Great Mogul being
500 elephants. Sir T. R. complains in
his Memmrs of the lions which then
infested the country, and killed one of
his baggage ponies. The Rajas of tiie
towns Mandu and Chitor were at feud
with each other for many years (see
Chitor). From June till Nov. the
locality is very unhealthy. The place
is very wild, the scenery fine, and game
of various sorts, including panthers,
abounds.]
87 m. Indore sta., D.B. This place
is the capital of the state, and the
residence of Holkar the Maharaja.
Pop. 75,000.
Indore stands on an elevated and
healthy site. Of recent years modem
improvements have been introduced.
Roads have been metalled, drains
built, the water-supply cared for, and
the principal streets lighted. Among
the chief objects of interest are the Lai
Bagh or garden, the mint, high school,
market-place, reading-room, dispen-
sary, and large cotton-mill. There is
considerable export trade in grain. To
the W. of the city is an antelope pre-
serve. Adjoining the town, on the
other side of the rly., is the British
Residency i an area assigned by treaty,
and containing not only the house and
park of the Governor-Grenerars agent
and the bungalows occupied by his
staff and other officials, but a bazaar of
some importance, and tiie central opium
stores and weighing agency. The
barracks for the Governor- Greneral's
native escort and the Rajkumar College
for the education of young native chiefs
and nobles are also within the Resi-
dency limits. Here is a Mission of
the Presbyterian Church of Canada.
The palace of the Maharsga Q m.
from the rly. sta.), with its lofty,
many-storied gateway, is situated al-
d by Google
ROUTE 4. FATEHABAD
81
most in the centre of the city, and is a
ooaspictious object from every part of
it It faces E. and is in a small square,
with the Gopal Mandir to the S.,
wWch was built by Krishna Bai, H.H.'s
mother. To the W. of the palace is
the Sharafa Street, where the money-
lenders, chiefly Marwaris, live. Close
by is the Haldi Bazaar, where the
dealers in opium live, and the Itwar,
or Sunday Street, where a market is
held on Sundays. At the end of this
is the old jail. H.H. sometimes re-
ceives guests in the Lai Bagh mentioned
above, which is on the banks of the
river, and contains a handsome villa.
At one end is a house where several
lions are kept, and there is also an
aviary. In an upper room are portraits
of many Hindu Kajas. In the lower
story is a handsome hall of audience,
which looks out on a ghat and on the
Snrsuti river, which is dammed up
here. From the terraced roof is a fine
view over the country.
The Sursuti river divides the city.
The old capital of the Holkar family was
Maheshvar in Nimar, on the banks of
the Nerbudda, where is the magnificent
Chattri (a monumental memorial) of
Ahalya Bai, an ancestress of Holkar. Sir
John Malcolm says of this lady : "The
character of her administration was for
more than thirty years the basis of the
prosperity which attended the dynasty
to which she belonged. She sat every
<Uy for a considerable period in open
<Iurbar transacting business. Her first
principle of government appears to
have been moderate assessment and an
^ost sacred respect for the native
i«ht8 of village officers and proprietors
jfland. She heard every complaint
a person, and although she continu-
«fly referred causes to courts of equity
ad arbitration, and to her ministers
fcr settlement, she was always acces-
iHe, and so strong was her sense of
i*y on all points connected with the
ftl&ibution of justice, that she is re-
pftBented as not only patient, but un-
HVwied in the investigation of the
most insignificant causes when appeals
were made to her decision. It appears,
above all, extraordinary how she had
mental and bodily powers to go through
[India]
the labour she imposed upon herself,
and which from the age of 80 to that
of 60, when she died, was unremitted.
The hours gained from the affairs of
the state were all given to acts of
devotion and charity, and a deep sense
of religion appears to have strengthened
her mmd in performance of her worldly
duties. Her charitable foundations
extend all over India, from the Hima-
layas to Cape Comorin, and from Som-
nath to the Temple of Jagannath in
the E." Ahalya Bai is certainly the
most distinguished female character in
Indian history. This short notice is
given as it will probably add interest
to the temples and ghats erected by her,
which the traveller will find in almost
every place of note he visits in India.
112 m. Fatehabad junc. sta. (R.)
From here a short branch line of 26 m.
runs to
[UJJain (or Djjaiyini) D.B.). This
famous city (the Greek 'Oi^viy) is situated
on the right bank of the river Sipra,
which falls into the Chambal after a
total course of 120 m. Ujjain is in the
dominions of the Maharaja Sindia of
Gwalior in Malwa, of which it was once
the capital. It stands in N. lat. 23" 1 1'
10", and is the spot which marked the
first meridian of Hindu geographers. It
is said to have been the seat of the vice-
royalty of Asoka, during the reign of his
father at Pataliputra, the capital of
Magadha, supposed to be the modem
Patna, about 263 B.C. It is, however,
best known as the capital of the cele-
brated Vikramaditya (Valour's sun),
founder of the era called Samvat, which
begins 57 B. c. He is said to have driven
out the Shakas or Scythians, and to
have reigned over*almost all N. India.
At his court flourished the Nine Gems
of Hindu literature, viz. Dhanvantari,
Kshapinaka, Amarasinha, Shanku,
Vetala-bhatta, Ghata-karpara, Kali-
dasia, Varanruchi, and Varaha-mihiiu.
Of these the poet Ealidasa has obtained
a European celebrity. Ujjain, as well
as the whole province of Malwa, was
conquered by Ala-ud-din Khilji, who
reigned at Delhi 1295-1317 a.d. In
1387 A.D. the Mohammedan Vicerov
declared himself independent. ^ His
name was Dilawar Khan Ghori, of
Digitized by VjOOQ ^
KOUTE 4. KHANDWA TO AJMERE
Mia
Afghau origin, who ruled from 1387
to 1405, ana made Mandu his capital.
In 1631 Malwa was conquered by
Bahadur Shah, King of Guzerat, and in
1671 by Akbar. In 1658 the decisive
battle between Aurangzib and Miirad
and their elder brother Dara, was
fought near this city. In 1792 Jas-
want Rao Holkar took Ujjain, and
burned part of it. It then fell into
the hands of Sindia, whose capital it
was till 1810, when Daulat Rao Sindia
removed to Gwalior.
The ruins of ancient Ujjain are
situated about 1 m. to the N. of the
modern city, which is oblong in shape,
and 6 m. in circumference, surrounded
by a stone wall with round towers, and
on all sides by a belt of groves and
gardens. The principal bazaar is a
spacious street, flanked by houses of
two stories, and having also four
mosques, many Hindu temples, and a
palace of Maharajah Sindia. Near the
palace is an ancient gateway, said to
have been part of Vikramaditya's fort.
At the S. end of the city is the Observa-
tory, erected by Jai Sing, Rajah of
Jeypore, in the time of the Emperor
Muhammad Shah. The same prince
erected observatories at Delhi, Jeypore,
Benares, and Muttra (see Benares
Observatory).]
161 m. Rutiam June. sta. (R.), D.B.
(Branch line W. by Godhra Anand
junction for Baroda, E. to Ujjain), is the
capital of a native state and the resi-
dence of the chief. It was founded by
Ratna, ^at- grandson of Uday Sing,
Maharajah of Jodhpur. Ratna was at
the battle of Fatehabad, near Ujjain,
in which Jaswant Rao Rath or, with
30,000 Rajputs, fought Aurangzib and
Murad, with the whole Mogul army.
Tod, vol. ii. p. 49, says, "Of all the
deeds of heroism performed that day,
those of Ratna of Ratlam by universal
consent are pre-eminent. " Outside the
town the chief has a very charming villa
and garden, in which he entertains
guests. The palace in which the Prince
resides is within the walls, and is a fine
new building, with a handsome reception
room. The town is a great emporium
for opium. There is a Chauk or
square, buUt by Munshi Shahamat
' Ali, who administered the state during
the Raja's minority. Beyond this
square is the Chandni Chauk, in which
the bankers live ; and this leads to the
Tirpoliya Gate, outside which is tiie
Amrit Saugar tank, which in the rains
is very extensive. In the town is a
college with 600 students.
213 m. Uandasor sta. A fortified
town, remarkable as being the place
where in 1818, at the end of the
Pindari War, a treaty was made between
the British Government and Holkar.
Here severe fighting occurred in 1857
between the rebels and a brigade of
British troops moving from Mhow to
relieve the British officers besieged in
the fort of Neemuch. Early in that
memorable year Mandasor became the
headquarters of a serious rebellion
which threatened all Malwa.
243 m. Neemuoh sta. ^Oc (R.), D.B., is
on the Rajputana and Malwa Rly. line.
A cantonment of British troops con-
taining the usual barracks and sub-
sidiary buildings, also a small fort
Neemuch was about the most southerly
place to which the mutiny extended.
In 1867 the place was garrisoned by a
brigade of native troo^ of all arms of
the Bengal army. This force mutinied
and marched to Delhi, the European
officers taking refuge in the fort, wnere
they were besieged by a rebel force from
Mandsaur, ana defended themselves
gallantly until relieved \>j a brigade
n'om Mhow. Some 42 ladies and non-
combatants found refuge at Oodeypur.
278 m. Chitor sta. ^ (Branch line
to Debari for Oodeypore p. 85). The
Gambheri river is crossed oy a massive
old bridge of gray limestone, witii ten
arches, all of pointed shape, except the
sixth from the W. bank, which is semi-
circular. The gateways and towers
which existed at either end of the bridge
have now disappeared. Unfortunately
the bridge is deficient in water-way, so
that floods pass over the parapets and
cut into the banks, and consequently
the ford has to be used. The date and
builder of the bridge are not known, bat
it is popularly said to have been built
by Ari Sing, son of Rana Lakshman,
both of whom were killed in the
by 'Alau-ud-din, about 1308 A.©.
d by Google
BOUTB 4. CHITOR
83
When Chitor was the capital of
Mewar, the city was up in the fort,
and the htdldings below were merely
an outer bazaar. The modem town,
called the Talehti or Lower Town of
I Chitor, is little more than a walled
village, with narrow, crooked streets,
resembling an outwork to the lower
gate of the principal W. entrance to
the great Fort.
The abrupt rocky hill crowned by
this magnificent Fort rises 500 ft. above
the surrounding country, and is a very
conspicuous object, though its great
length of 3| m. makes it lo% lower than
it i^ally is. The whole of the summit
is covered with ruins of palaces and
temples, and the slopes with thick
ale. A single ascent 1 m. Icng
( to the summit, and is defended
at intervals by seven very fine monu-
mental gateways, large enough to con-
tain gn^*d-rooms and even nne halls.
They are the Padal Pol, the nearly
obliterated (Broken) Bhairo or Phuta
Pol, the Hanuman Pol, the Ganesh Pol,
the Jorla Pol, the Lakshman Pol, and
the main gate, or Ram Pol.
Immediately outside the Padal Pol
on the L is an erect stone marking the
spot where Bagh Sing, the chief of
Ueolia Pratapgarh, was killed during
the siege of Cnitor by Bahadur Shah of
Giuerat, iii 1535.
Between the " Broken " and the Hanu-
nan gates there are on the rt. two
chattris marking the spots where the
K&owned Jaimall of Bednor and his
diBsman Kalla were killed in Akbar's
siege, in 1568. Ealla carried his
voonded chief down to have a last
sboke at the enemy, and died, fighting.
"^ 39 memorial stones are mucn
^'derated, as if marking the shrine of
3«*e minor deity.
facing the great gate is a pillared
Ml used as a guardhouse, and ap-
pvintly of ancient construction. From
tiatop of this hall, on which there are
t* four-pillared chattris, a fine view of
tivplain is obtained.
tte Ram Pol is a large and hand-
9me gateway, crowned by a Hindu
^ for a striking account of this wonderftQ
rort, see The Naulakha and LOtwM (JMa/rgue,
botti by Rndyard Kipling.
horizontal arch, in which the npper
courses of either side, projecting in-
wards, overlap each other till they
meet, or nearly so, being then slabbed
over. This is the construction of all
the gateways on the ascent, except the
Jorla, though in one, the Lakshman,
the lower angles of the projecting
courses are sloped off, giving the whole
the outline of a regular pomted arch.
Inside the gate, on each side, is a fine
hall, supported on square-shaped and
slightly tapering antique pillars.
Within, directly facing the gate,
the hill a^n rises steeply, and at the
foot of this upper rise is a chattri mark-
ing where Patta Sing felL
The site of the old city is eveiy.
where covered with ruins. The chief
objects of interest are the Towers of
Fame and Victory, the only two remain-
ing of a great number of similar monu-
ments which probably once adorned the
brow of Chitor.
The old Jain Towar of Fame stands
up grandly on the E. rampart. This
tower is called the small Kirthanay
which is a contraction of Eirthi
Stambh. Fergusson thus describes it:
"One of the most interesting Jaina
monuments of the age (the first or
great age of Jaina architecture, which
extended down to about the year 1300,
or perhaps a little after that) is the
tower of Sri AUat (Rana Alluji). It is
a singularly elegant specimen of its
class, about 80 ft. in height, and
adorned with sculptures and mouldings
from the base to the summit. An
inscription once existed at its base,
which gave its date as 896 A.D., and
though the slab was detached, this is
so nearly the date we shouM arrive at
from the style that there seems little
doubt that it was of that age. It was
dedicated to Adnath, the first of the
Jaina Tirthankars, and his figure is
repeated some hundreds of times on
the face of the tower ; but so far as I
could perceive, not that of any of the
other Jaina saints. The temple in the
foreground, S. side, is of a more modem
date, being put together, principally,
of fragments of other bnildings, which
have disappeared."
The tower consists of seven stories,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
J
84
ROUTE 4. KHANDWA TO AJMERE
India
with an internal narrow and oramped
staircase ; the top storey is open, and its
roof, which rests on pillars, and has been
much damaged by lightning, has bushes
growing on it Its construction is locally
attributed by some to Ehatan Rani, wile
of Khata Bana, and by others to Allata
Rana, who ruled a.d. 950 or accordmg
to Tod A.D. 896. Fragments of an in-
scribed stone are on the ground under
a tree just N. of the tower.
From the W. ridge the view opens out,
and a semicircular valley is seen with the
Elephant reservoir close to the cliff and
a baclqground of trees, out of which rises
the magnificent Jaya-stambh or Tower
of Victory. Of this Mr. Fergusson says :
''To Kumbo, who reigned from 1418-68,
we owe this tower, which was erected to
commemorate his victory over Mahmud,
kine of Malwa, in 1439. It is a Pillar
of Victory, like that of Trajan at Rome,
but of inhnitely better taste as an archi-
tectural object. It has nine storeys,
each of which is distinctly marked on
the outside. A stair in the centre
leads to each storey, the two upper ones
being open and more ornamented than
Idiose below. It stands on a base 47 ft.
square and 10 ft. high, and is 30 ft.
square rising to a height of 122 ft., the
whole being covered with ornaments and
sculptures to such an extent as to leave
no plain part, while this mass of decora-
tion is kept so subdued that it in no way
interferes with the outline or general
effect. The old dome was* injured bjy^
lightning, and a new one was substi-
tuted by H. H. Sarup Sing. The stair
is much wider and easier than that in
the Jain tower (the small Eirthan), and
in the inside are carvings of Hindu
deities witb the names below. In the
top storey are 2 of the original 4 slabs
with long inscriptions. The tower took
7 to 10 yrs. to build, from 1548 to
1558. On the road at the comer of the
lower platform is a square pillar record-
ing a sati in 1468, A.D."
Close by the gate of the Sun, on the
E. rampart, are two large tanks, and ad-
Joining them is the fine Palace of Bana
Kpmbo, the builder of the Tower of
Victory, a fine example of the domestic
architecture of RajpJutana before the
Mussulman invasion, showing all the
beautv of detail which chamctoises
such buildings in generaL In front is
a court surrounded by guard-roonuand
entered by a vaulted gateway.
The Palace of Batna Sing (or Bhim)
is a very pleasing example of the style of
the Hindu architecture of this country
in the 13th cent That of his wile
Rani Padmani is a lai^e and beautiful
building overlooking the tank. From
one of these palaces Akbar carried off
the famous gates now in the fort at Agra.
The Temple of Vriji, built by Bana
Eumbo about 1450, is a massive build-
ing with a sikra (or tower) of unusu-
ally large proportions. Adjoining it
is a temple, in the same style,
built by his wife, the famous Mira Bai,
of which the chief peculiarity is that
the procession path round the cell is
an open colonnade with four small
pavilions at the comers.
At the highest point in Chitor a broad
terrace has been made, whence there
is a magnificent view.
Near the Tower of Victory is the
Mahasata, a small wooded terrace, the
pleasantest spot on the hill, which was
the place of cremation of the Banas
before Oodeypur was founded. Below,
on a lower terrace, are the Gaumukh
springs and reservoir. The sjHings
issue from the cliff at places where are
cow-mouth carvings, hence the name.
To the S.W. is a large carved stone
temple, built by Rana Muka^L On
the back wall is a huge carved head.
A branch line runs from Chitor to
Debari, whence there is a regular service
of vehicles toOodeypore, 8 milesdistant
Dabok, where Uvea Colonel Tod, the
first Resident and author of the ** Annals
of Ragastan," lies in ruins a few miles
south of Debari.
About 1 m. before reaching the capi*
tal, the Arh river is crossed, with
the old ruined town of that name
on its banks. This stream collects
the whole drainage of the Girwa,
the natural outlet from which was
dammed up with an immense masonry
embankment by Maha Rana Udai
Sing. He thus formed the Udai
Saugar Lake, the surplus waters from
which, escaping, form the Birach riven
Oodeypore, or Udaypur, the marvel*
d by Google
ROUTE 4. OODEYPORE
85
londy picturesque capital of the state
of Mewar, the residence of the Maha-
rana, Samp Sing, and of the British
fiesident, to whom a suitable intro-
I dflction should be brought.
It is difficult to conceive anything
more beautiful than the situation of this
place. It may be described as the centre
of the Lake District of India. Some of
the best views are obtained from the
palace, the embankment, or the Dudh
Talao, more especially in the morning,
when the early sun lights up the marble
of the water palaces, with the dark
water beyond, and the still darker back-
ground of the hills.
The Oity is surrounded by a bastioned
wall, which towards the S. encloses
several large gardens. The W. side is
farther protected by the lake, and the
N. and E. sides by a moat supplied
from the lake, while on the S. the
fortified hill of Eklinjgarh rises steep
and rugged. The principal gateways
are the Hathi Pol or " Elephant Gate,"
to the N. ; the Kherwara Gate, to the
S. ; the Suiaj Pol, or "Gate of the
Snn," on the E. ; and the Delhi Gate.
On the side towards the lake is a
handsome TirpoUyay or three-arched
water gateway. Another gate with
massive arches opens on a bridge, and
leads to a suburb on the W. of the lake.
The beautiful Pola Lake lies to the
W. of the city. It is said to have been
constructed in portions at different
periods. TJdai Sing probably com-
menced it. The N. portion is called the
Samp Saugar, having been constructed
by liaha Rana Samp Sing. The groves
and palaces on the islands are so l^auti-
fal ^at the traveller will be glad to
pais wie whole day there ; but the boats
<a the lake belong to the Maha Rana,
aad are only obtainable through the
Boident. There is fine makseer and
otW fishing in the lake, for which
pttmission must be obtained. In one
of the Palaces the Emperor Shah Jehan,
then Prince Salim, took shelter from
tie displeasure of his father Jehangir.
Here are retained some relics of the
ftince, and there is a handsome shrine
of polished stone. Here too the 42
rafiogees from Neemuch, at the time of
the Mutiny, were received and pro-
tected by the Maha Rana Sarup Sing.
From another of the palaces, Outram
when taunted by the Maha Rana,
spi-ang into the lake, swarming though
it was with alligators, who were being
fed, and swam to shore. The fine
Hindu Temple is a perfect example of
the Indo- Aryan style. ** The porch is
covered with a low pyramidal roof,
placed diagonally on the substructure,
and rising in steps, each of which is
ornamented with vases or urns of
varying shapes. The tower is orna-
mented by four flat bands, of great
beauty and elegance of design, between
each of which are 35 little repetitions
of itself, placed one above the other in
5 tiers, the whole surmounted by an
amalaka, and an urn of very elegant
design. Every part is carved with great
precision and delicacy." (Ferguson.)
A day should be spent in a visit to
the lUyyal Palace on the brink of the
lake, if permission can be obtained
from the Resident. The modem part
of the palace, close above the lake,
is the part most accessible. *' It is a
most imposing pile of granite and
marble, of quadrangular shape, rising
at least 100 ft. from the ground, and
flanked with octagonal towers, crowned
with cupolas. Altnough built at various
periods, uniformity of design has been
well preserved ; nor is there in the East
a more striking structure. It stands
upon the very crest of a ridge, running
parallel to, but considerably elevated
above the margin of the lake. The
terrace, which is at the E. and chief
front of the palace, extends throughout
its length, and is supported by a triple
row of arches, from the declivity of
the ridge. The height of this arcaded
wall is full 60 ft., and although all is
hollow beneath, yet so admirably is
it constructed, that an entire range of
stables is built on the extreme verge
of the terrace, on which all the forces
of the Maha Rana, elephants, cavalry,
and infantry, are often assembled.
From this terrace the city and the valley
lie before the spectator, whose vision is
bounded only by the distant hills;
while from the summit of the palace
nothing obstructs the view over lake
and mountain." There is a hospital,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
86
ROUTE 5. ITARSI JUNCTION TO CAWNPORB
India
church, and home of the U.P. Church
of Scotland.
A driye should he taken along the
principal street of Oode3rpur from the
Hathi Pol through the main hazaar to
the Palace, ^adually rising along the
side of the ndge and passing the great
Jagdes Temple. Another drive leads
through the hazaars from either the
Delhi or Suraj Pol Gate to the Ottkib
Gurdea^ which, with its stately trees,
beautiful flowers, walks and fountains,
is well worth a visit. Passing through
it, go to the IhjiM, TcUao or *'muk
tank," a branch of the Pechola Lake,
and by a picturesque road round it re-
turning to the D. B. by the outside road.
Another visit may oe made to Ahar^
3 m. to the E. of the lake, where are
the cenotaphs of the Maharanas. These
chattris containing the royal ashes stand
in what is called the Mahasati or royal
place of cremation, which is enclosed by
a lofty wall and is adorned by many fine
trees. The most remarkable are those
of Sangram Singh ILj a large and
beautifal structure, and of Amara Singh,
grandson of Udai Singh.^ Besides the
modem village of Ahar, there is the older
town, where are ruined temples, which
are the chief objects of interest, and also
some still more ancient mounds.
If he has time, the traveller may go to
see the great lake at Kankroliy or Kaj-
nagar, called the Bajsamudra, 80 m. to
the N. of Oodejrpur. The retaining wall
of this lake is of massive masonry, in
many places 40 ft. high. The Band or
Ghat is 1115 ft. long, with pavilions and
torans or ornamental arches all of
marble ; behind is an embankment 35
yds. wide. It was erected (1660) as a
famine work. There is a fair cart-track
to this place.
The Dhibar, or Jaisamand lake,
is about 20 m. S.E. of Oodeypur city
through a wild country ; it is about
9 m. K>ng by 5 m. broad, and is one of
the most beautiful sights in India.]
379 m. Nuueerabad sta., D.B.
The military cantonment for Ajmere.
The station was originally laid out in
1818 by Sir David Ochterlony. It is a
long, strangling place. Some interest
IS attached to Nusseerabad from the
* See FeiguMon.
fact that when the mutiny broke out
in 1857, the Bombay Cavaliy (1st) were
compelled to remain neutral— tiboufh
loyally inclined — as the families of the
native officers and men were tt the
mercy of a Bengal regiment, who
mutinied and marched on Ajmere. A
cavalry skirmish took place near where
the railway station now stands, in
which several officers lost their lives.
None of the officers' bungalows of the
1st cavalry were touched. One officer,
on his return to Nusseerabad in more
peaceful times, found even his dock
on mantelpiece as he left it. Good
small -game shooting and pig-sticking
are to be had in the neighbourhood.
Here is a Scottish (U.P.) Mission.
393 m. Ajmere junc. sta. (see Rte. 6.)
ROUTE 6
Itarsi Junction to Oa^itnfobe,
THROUGH BhOPAL, BhILSA, ASH
Jhanbi.
Itarsi junc sta. 464 m. from Bombay
on the G.I.P. Railway (see Rte. 1).
11 m. HoBhangabad sta., D.B. A
town with population of 16,000 ; the
headquarters of a district of the same
name. The place contains nothing to
detaiA a traveller. Passing out of Hosh-
angabad the railway crosses the Ner-
buada on a fine bndge. About 4 m.
N. of the Nerbudda river the ascent
of the ghat commences, and at the top
the line runs on the tableland of
Malwa, which has an average elevation
of 1500 ft
57 m. Bhopal sta. (R). D.B. [Branch
to Ujjain]. The town stands on tfie N.
bank of a fine and extensive lake, 4} m.
long and IJ broad. Bhopal is the capita]
of a native state, under the Oentra]
Indian Agency. It has an area of 820C
sq. m. The d3masty was founded by Dosj
Muhammad, an Afghan chief in t]
service of Aurangzib, who took adva
tage of the troubles that followed 1
Emperor's death to establish his in<
pendence. His familv have always sho^
their friendship for the British. In 1 T
when General Goddard made his fiunc
march across India, Bhopal was t
only Indian sUifi which showed its
Digitized by VjOOQ
ROUTE 5. BHILBA
87
Mendly. In 1809, when General Close
commanded another expedition in the
neighbourhood, the Nawab of Bbopal
applied to be received under British
notection, but without success. The
Nawab then obtained assistance from
the Pindaris, in the gallant struggle he
maintained to defend himself against
Sindia and Baghoji Bhonsla, in the
course of which his capital underwent
a severe but ineffectual siege.
In 1817 the British Government in-
tervened and formed an alliance with
the Nawab of Bhopal, who was in
1818 guaranteed his possessions by
treaty, on condition of furnishing 600
horse and 400 infantry, to maintain
which five districts in Malwa were
assigned to him. He was soon after-
waids killed by a pistol accidentally
discharged by a child. His nephew, an
infant, was declared his successor, and
betrothed to his infant daughter, but
the IJawab's widow, Khudsya Begam,
endeavoured to keep the government
in her own hands, and the declared
heir resigned his claim to the throne
and to the hand of the Nawab's daughter
Sikandar Begam in favour of his brother
Jehangir Muhammad. After long dis-
sensions, Jehangir Muhammad was in-
stalled as Nawab, in 1837, through the
mediation of the British. He died in
1844, and was succeeded by his widow,
Si]candar Begam, who ruled till her
death in 1868. She left one daughter,
8bdi Jehan Begam. The State main-
tains 694 horse, 2200 foot, 14 field guns
and 43 other guns, with 291 artillery-
men, and pays £20,000 to the British
Government in lieu of a contingent.
The name of Bhopal is said to be
derived from that of its founder, Raja
ftoj, and the dam by which he formed
'fte Tank, dam being in Hindu paL
thus BhojjMil has been corrupted into
Aopal. The city proper is enclosed
% a masonry wall, 2 m. in circuit.
The traveller should visit the Palace
4 the Begam, which is not of much
»ehitectural beauty, but is a large and
llQiofiing building; the Citadel, from
pf» walls of wMai a fine view of the
Jake and surrounding country is ob-
tained; the Jiimma Musjid, built by
^ late Khudsya Begam; the Moti
Musjid, built by the late Sikandar
Begam (it somewhat resembles the
Mosque at Delhi) ; the MirU and Ar-
senal, and the Gardens of the Khudsya
and Sikandar Begams.
The town of Bhopal is well kept and
lighted, and fairly clean. In the city
proper, water has been laid on to all
the houses. The Water-works were
built by the Khudsya Begam, and are
much superior to those of most Indian
cities. The s7naUer lake E. of the town,
2 m. long, was constructed by Chota
Khan, minister of Nawab Hyat .
Muhammad Khan, a former ruler of
Bhopal. The dam is of masonry, and
is an imposing work.
90 m. Bhilsa sta. A fortified town
in the Gwalior state. Pop. 7000. The
town is situated on the rt. or E. bank
of the river Betwa, and is perched on
a rock of 1546 ft. above sea-level, and
has a fort enclosed by a castellated
stone wall, and sun-ounded by a ditch ;
the suburb outside has some spacious
streets containing good houses. In the
fort lies an old gun, 19^ ft in length,
with a bore of 10 in., said to have been
made by order of the Emperor Jehaiigir.
After changing hands several times,
Bhilsa was finally, in 1570, incorporated
with the Empire of Delhi by Akbar.
The tobacco produced in the vicinity
of the town is considered the finest in
India. Bhilsa is now chiefly note-
worthy as a famous place of Hindu pil-
grimage to the temples, picturesq^uely
situated in the bed of the Betwa nver,
and as giving its name to the remark-
able and interesting series of Buddhist
Topes found in its neighbourhood.^
Mr. Fergusson says, in his History
of Architecture : "The most extensive,
and perhaps the most interesting group
of topes in India, is that known as the
Bhilsa Topes: within a district not
exceeding 10 m. E. and "W., and 6 m.
N. and S., are five or six groups of
topes, containing altogether between
25 and 30 individual examples."
1 These are described in General Cunning-
ham's BhiUa Topes, 1 voL 8vo. 1854 ; also In
Fergusson's Tree and Serpent Worship. One half
of this book and 46 of its plates, besides wood-
cuts, are devoted to the illustration of the
Great Tope. A cast of the B. gateway is in the
South Kensington and Edinburgh Museums,
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8S
ROUTE 5. ITARSI JUNCTION TO CAWNPORE
India
Notwithstanding all that has been
written about them, we know very little
that is certain regarding their object
and their history.
5 m. from Bhilsa is Sanohi, A where
there is a group of 11 topes,
the principal is —
Of these
cended by a broad double ramp on one
side. It was probably used for proces-
sions round the monument The centre
of the mound is quite solid, being of
bricks laid in mud, but the exterior is
faced with dressed stones, over which
was cement nearly 4 in. thick, origin-
ally adorned, no doubt, with paintings
or ornaments in relief
As is usual in these Buddhist topes,
the building is surrounded by ** rails,"
exhibiting the various steps by which
the modes of decorating them were
arrived at, with 4 gateways or torans
(3 m situ), covered with most elaborate
sculptures, quite unequalled by any
other examples known to exist in India.
The period of erection probably ex-
tended from about 250 B.C. to the Ist
cent, of the Christian era; the rails
were constructed first and the gate-
ways at intervals afterwards.
Besides the gi-oup at Sanchi, tliere is
at Sonari, 6 m. off, a group of eight
topes, of which two are important struc-
tures in square courtyards, and in one
of these numerous relics were found.
At SadharOf 3 m. farther, is a tope 101
ft. in diameter, which yielded no relics.
Section Great Tope at Sanchi.
L
The Chreat Tope, a dome 106 ft. in
diameter and 42 ft. high. On the top
is a fiat space 34 ft. in diameter, once
surrounded by a stone railing. In the
centre was a **Tee," intended to repre-
sent a relic-casket. The dome, 42 ft.
high, rasts on a sloping base 120 ft. in
diameter, and 14 ft. high, and was as-
In one tope, 24 ft. in diameter, were
found relics of Sariputra and others
like those found at Sanchi.
At Bhojpur, 7 m. from Sanchi, are
37 topes, the largest 66 ft. in diameter,
and in the next to it important relics
were found. At Andher, 6 m. W. of
Bhojpur, is a group of three small but
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ROUTE 6. SAUGOR
89
?e(y interesting topes. ** As fai' as can
beat present ascertained," says Mr. Fer-
gmson, " there is no reason for assuming
that any of these topes are earlier than
the age of Asoka, 220 B.C., nor later
than the 1st century a.d., though their
mis may be later."
In 1883, by order of the Grovemment
of India, the main group of buildings
received much attention. The fallen
gateways were set up. The sacred rails
were secured, and, where fallen, were
re-erected. The body of the stupa was
restored to its original shape, and the
processional paths were cleared. Where
it was necessary to put in new stone
for structural purposes the surfaces have
been left quite plain.
143 m. Bina junc. sta. (R.) A line
from here runs S.K over an undulating
coontiy to Saugor and Dnmmon.
[47 m. Saugor, D.B. Principal town
and headquarters of Saugor district.
Central Provinces. A military canton-
ment Pop. 44,000. Saugor stands 1940
ft. above sea-level, on the borders of
a fine lake, nearly 1 m. broad, from
vhich it derives its name. The lake is
said to be an ancient Banjara work, but
the present city dates only from the
end of the 17th cent, and owes its
riae to a Bundela RajaJi, who built a
small fort on the site of the present
stmcture in 1660, and founded a village
called Parkota, now a quarter of the
modem town. Saugor was next held
by Chatar Sal, and formed part of
tie territory left by him on his death
10 his ally the Peshwa. Govind Pandit
was appointed by the Peshwa to ad-
minister the countiy, and his descend-
aats continued to manage it till
Aortly before it was ceded to the
Bdtish Government by the Peshwa Baji
Bao in 1818. During this period the
tetn was twice plundered by the Pin-
doi chief Amir Khan and his army,
and again by Sindia in 1804. During
the Mutiny of 1857 the town and fort
wm held by the English for eight
menths, until the arrival of Sir Hugh
Rose. During that time the whole of
the surrounding country was in posses-
ttittiof thereb^
Saugor town is well built, with wide
streets. The large bathing-ghats on the
banks of the lake, for we most part
surrounded with Hindu temples, add
much to its appearance.
The existing Fort at Saugor was com-
pleted by the Maratbas about 1780.
It stands on a. height N. W. of the lake,
commanding the whole of the city and
surrounding country, and consists of 20
round towers, varying from 20 to 40 ft
in height, connected by thick curtain
walls. It encloses a space of 6 acres,
for the most part covered with old
Maratha buildings two stories high.
The British Government have con-
structed a magazine, a large building
now used for medical stores, and a bar-
rack for the European guard. The
only entrance is on the E. side. The
building is now used as the tahsil, and
as the office of the executive engineer.
The laige castellated jail, capable of
containing 500 piisoners, is situated
about J m. E. of the lake ; the Deputy
Commissioner's Court is on a hill over-
looking the city and lake ; the Sessions
Court-house, a little to the N. ; and the
city kotwali, or station-house, under
the western walls of the fort. In 1862
an unhealthy swamp lying N. E. of the
lake, which cut off the quarter called
Gopalganj from the rest of the city,
was converted into a large garden with
numerous drives and a piece of orna-
mental water. The civil station begins
with the mint, about 1 m. E. of the
lake, and extends northwards for 1 m.
till joined by the military cantonments,
which extend in a north-easterly direc-
tion for 2 J m., with the church in the
centre.]
182 m. LaUtpnr sta., D.B. The head-
quarters of a district of the same name.
Pop. 11,000. Formerly unimportant,
this place is now bscomiug more
prosperous. Buddhist remains built
into the walls of modern buildings
indicate that some large shrine once
existed in the neighbourhood.
207 m. Talbahat sta. A picturesque
town with a large piece of artificial
water covering more than 1 sq. m.
The water is retained by damming the
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90
ROUTE 5. ITARSI JUNCTION TO CAWNPORE
India
streams that flow through a rocky
barrier about 800 ft high. The ridge
is covered with old battlements and
defences. The fort was destroyed by
Sir Hugh Rose in 1858.
238 m. Jhansi June. sta.30c (R.), D.6.
centre of the Indian Mid. Rly. system.
The main line runs N.E. to Cawn-
pore, a branch N. to Gwalior and Agra,
and another £. through Banda to
the £. I. Rly. at Manikpur. Jhansi
is one of the main halting-places for
troops proceeding up country. It is
well worthy of a visit on account of its
Fort, which the British Grovemment
have exchanged with Maharaja Sindia
for Gwalior.
The Province of BundeUnrnd, in
which Jhansi is situated, has for ages
been one of the most turbulent and
difficult to manage in all India. In
the early part of the 17th century the
Orchha state was governed by Bir
Sing Deo, who built 9ie fort of Jnansi,
8 m. to the N. of his capital, which is
situated on an island m the Betwa
river. He incurred the heavy dis-
pleasure of Akbar by the murder of
Abul Fazl, the Emperor's favourite
minister and historian, at the instiga-
tion of Prince Salim, afterwards known
as the Emperor Jehangir. A force was
accordingly sent against him in 1602 ;
the country was ravaged and devastated,
but Bir Sing himself contrived to
escape. On the accession of his patron,
Salim, in 1605, he was naturally
pardoned, and rose into great favour ;
but when, on the death of that em-
peror in 1627, Shah Jehan mounted
the throne, Bir Sing revolted. His
rebellion was unsuccessful, and although
he was permitted to keep possession of
his dominions, he never regained all
his former power and independence.
During the troubled times which suc-
ceeded, Orchha was sometimes in the
hands of the Mohammedans and some-
times fell under the power of Bundela
chieftains. In 1732 Chatar Sal found
it expedient to call in the aid of the
Marathas, who were then invading the
Central Provinces under their first
Peshwa, Baji Rao. They came to his
assistance with their accustomed promp.
titude, and were rewarded on the Baja's
death, in 1734, by a beouest of ojie-
third of his dominions. The territory
so ffranted included pc^ons of the
mooem division of JhisMd, but not the
existing district itaelf. In 1742, how-
ever, the Marathas found a pretext for
attacking the Orchha State, and an-
nexing that amongst other territories.
Their general founded the city of Jhansi,
and peopled it with the inhabitants of
Orchna.
The district remained under the rule
of the Peshwas until 1817, when they
ceded their richts to the E. I. Com-
pany. Under British protection, native
Kajas ruled until their folly and in-
competency ruined the country, and
when the dynasty died out in 1858
their territories lapsed to the Britidi
Government. The Jhansi State, with
Jaloun and Chanderi Districts, were
then formed into a Superintendency,
while a pension was gpunted to the
Rani or widow of tiie late Raja Rao.
The Rani, however, considered herself
aggrieved, both because she was not
allowed to adopt an heir, and because
the slaughter of cattle was permitted
in the Jhansi territory. Reports were
spread which excited the religious pre-
judices of the Hindus.
The events of 1857 accordingly found
Jhansi ripe for rebellion. In May it
was known that the troops were dis-
affected, and on the 5th oi June a few
men of the 12th Native In&ntry seized
the fort containing the treasure and
magazine. Many European officers
were shot the same day. The re-
mainder, who had taken refuge in
a fort, capitulated a few days after,
and were massacred with their families
to the number of 66 persons, in spite of
a promise of protection sworn on the
Koran and Ganges water. The Rani
then attempted to seize the supreme
authority, but the usual anarchic
quarrels arose between the rebels, during
which the Orchha leaders laid siege
to Jhansi and plundered the country
mercilessly. On the 4th of April 1858
the fort and town were captured by Sir
Hugh Rose, who marched on to Kalpi
without being able to leave a garrison
at Jhansi. After hi» departure, tbi
Digitized by Google
ROUTE 6. KALPI
91
rebellion broke out afresh, only the
Gasarai chieftain in the N. remaining
fiiithfal to the British cause. On the
nth August a flying column under
Colonel Liddell cleared out the rebels
from Mhow, and after a series of sharp
contests with various guerilla leaders,
the work of reorganisation was fairly
set on foot in ifovember. The Rani
herself had previously fled with Tantia
Topi, and finally fell in a battle at the
foot of the rock fortress of Gwalior.
The siege of Jhansi occupied Sir
Hugh Rose's army from 21st March
till 4th April 1858, and cost us 348 in
killed and wounded, of whom 36 were
officers. The engineers lost 4 officers
escalade. Madleson, (quoting Sir Hugh
Rose, gives the followmg description of
Jhansi at the time of the investment :
"The great strength of the Fort of
Jhansi, natural as well as artificial,
and its extent, entitle it to a place
among fortresses. It stands on an
elevated rock, rising out of a plain, and
commands the oily and surrounding
country. It is buut of excellent and
most massive masonry. The fort is
difi&eult to breach, because composed of
granite ; ite walls vary in thickness
from 16 te 20 ft It has extensive and
elaborate outworks of the same solid
construction, with front and flanking
embrasures for artillery-fire, and loop-
holes, of which in some places there were
five tiers for musketry. On one tower,
called the * white turret,' since raised in
height, waved in proud defiance the
standard of the high-spirited Rani.
The fortress is surrounded on all
sides by the city of Jhansi, the W. and
part of the S. face excepted. The
steepness of the rock protects the W. ;
the fortified city wall springs from
the centre of ite S. face, and ends
in a high mound or nutmelon, which
protecte by a flanking fire S. face. The
mound was fortified by a strong circular
liaation for five guns, round part of
which was drawn a diteh, 12 ft. deep
and 15 ft broad of solid masonry.
** The city of Jhansi is about 4\ m. in.
circumference, and is surrounded by a
fortified and massive wall, from 6 to 12
fL thick, and varying in height from
18 to 80 ft., with numerous flanking
bastions armed as batteries, with ord-
nance, and loop-holes, with a banquette
for infantry. The town and fortress
were garrisoned by 11,000 men, com-
posed of rebel sepoys, foreign mercen-
aries, and local levies, and they were
led by a woman who believed her cause
to be just."
It is being modernised and supplied
with strong armament. The views
from the top and from the road round
the ramparts are very extensive.
The old civil stetion (Jhansi Naoa-
bad) atteched to Jhansi before 1861
remains the headquarters of the dis-
trict, and is under British rule.
[7 m. from Jhansi, on the river Betwa,
is the interesting native fort of Orchha,
well worth a visit.]
Between Jhansi and Cawnpore the
country abounds in black buck. Num-
erous old fortified villages are seen
from the rly. train.
308 m. Oral ( Urai) ste. (R.) A thriving
place of 8000 inhabitents. The head-
quarters of the Jaloun district. Before
1839 the place was an insignificant
village. There are some handsome
Mohammedan tombs and the usual
public offices.
329 m. Ealpi ste. on the Indian
Midland Railway. The town is situ-
ated on the right bank of the Jumna
amongst deep rugged ravines. The
river here is crossed by an iron girder
bridge. Tradition says that the town
was founded by Basdeo or Vasude va, who
ruled at Kamba from 330 to 400 a.d.
Daring the Mogul period Kalpi
played so large a part in the annals of
this part of India that it would be im-
possible to deteil ite history at length.
After the Marathas interfered in the
affairs of Bundelkund, the headquartere
of their government were fixed at Kalpi.
At the tmie of the British occupation
of Bundelkund in 1803, Nana Gobind
Rao seized upon the town. The British
besieged it in December of that year,
and, after a few hours' resistence, it
surrendered. Kalpi was then included
in the territory granted to Raja Himmat
Bahadur, on whose d^thi in 1804, it I
92
ROUTE 6a. AGRA TO MANIKPUR
once more lapsed to Government. It
was next handed over to Gobind Bao,
who exchanged it two years later for
villages farther to the "W. Since
that time Kalpi has remained a British
possession. After the capture of Jhansi,
and the rout of the mutineers atKoonch,
they fell back on Kalpi, which through-
out the previous operations they had
made their principal arsenaL Here, on
22d May 1858, Sir Hugh Rose (Lord
Strathnaim) again defeated a large
force of about 12,000 under the Rani of
Jhansi, Rao Sahib, and the Nawab of
Banda, who then fled to Gwalior.
Ealpi was formerly a place of far
greater importance than at the present
day. T^e East India Company made
it one of their principal stations for
providing their commercial invest-
ments. The western outskirt of the
town, alonff the river side, contains a
large number of ruins, notably the
tomb called the 84 Domes, and 12
other handsome mausoleums. At one
time the town adjoined these ruins,
but it has gradually shifted south-
eastward. Ganesganj and Temanganj,
two modem quarters in that direction,
at present conduct all the traffic. The
buildings of the old commercial agency
crown some higher ground, but are now,
for the most part, empty. A ruined
fort, situated on the steep bank of the
Jumna, overhangs the ghat.
874 m. Cawnpore junc. sta. (see
p. 260).
ROUTE 6a
AoRA TO Gwalior, Jhansi, Banda,
AND Manikpub.
Starting from the Agra Fcyrt Statum
(p. 168) by the Indian Midland RaU-
way, the traveller reaches at
36m. Dholpur sta. (R.), the chief town
of the native state of thatname. In 1658
Aurangzib defeated and killed his elder
brother Dara-Shikoh at Ran-ka-
Chabutara, 3 m. E. of Dholpur. The
imperial princes, competitors for the
crown, 'Azim and Mu'azzim, fought a
Ct battle in 1707 at the village of
jhta near Dholpur, and the former
was killed, on which Mu'azzim became
eniperor, mth the title of Bahadur Shah.
The sights of Dholpur are not numer-
ous. The Palace is a moderately hand-
some and very commodious building.
The tank of Much Kund, about 2 m.
from Dholpur, is about ^ m. long, and
contains several islets, on which are
pavilions. The banks are lined with
temples, but none of them are ancient
or remarkable. There are alligators in
the tank, but though crowds of pilgrims
bathe in the watei-s, there is no story
of any of them being caiTied ofL
The river Chambal runs through
this state, and is bordered everywhere
by a labyrinth of ravines, some of which
are 90 ft. deep, and extend to a distance
of from 2 to 4 m. from the river banks,
near which panthers are sometimes
found. The floods of the Chambal are
very remarkable. The highest recorded
flood above summer level rose no less
than 97 ft. There is a very fine Bridge
over the stream about 4 m. from Dhol-
pur, built of the famous red sandstone
of Dholpur, a ridge of which, from 660
to 1074 ft. above sea -level, runs for
60 m. through the territory, and sup-
plies inexhaustible quarries.
77m.OWALIOE8ta.3^(R.),D.B. The
capital of Maharaia Sindia, and &mous
for its fort, one of the most ancient and
renowned strongholds in India.
For many years a strong brigade of
British troops was maintained at Morar,
a few m. E. of the fort. The latter
was garrisoned by British troops from
1858 to 1886, when it was restored to
the Maharajah's custody, and Gwalior
and Morar were made over to him in
exchange for Jhansi.
History.
General Cunningham, in vol. iL of
the JSeports of the ArchceologiocU Sur-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROtJTE 5a. OWALIOR
d3
ny^ gives a most valuable account of
Gwauor. He says that of the three
16th and 17th cent, authorities for the
early history of Gwalior, Eharg Rai
ttys Gwalior was founded 8101 B.C. ;
that Fazl 'All assigns 275 a.d. as the
year of its foundation ; and that this
date is also adopted by Hiraman.
Tieffenthaler, Wilford, and Cunning-
nam agree in fixing on this later date.
According to Cunningham, Toramana
was a tributary prince under the Gup-
tas, against whom he rebelled, and
became sovereign of all the territory
between the Jumna and Nerbudda,
and in the reign of his son, 275
A.D., the Sun Temple was built, the
Suraj Ennd excavated, and Gwalior
founded, by Suraj Sen, a Eachhwaha
chief, who was a leper, and coming
when hunting to the hill of Gopagiri,
on which the Fort of Gwalior now
stands, got a drink of water from
the hermit Gwalipa, which cured him
of his leprosy. In gratitude for that
he built a fort on the hill, and called
it "Gwaliawar," or Gwalior. Suraj
Sen got a new name, Suhan Pal, from
the hermit, with a promise that his
descendants should reign as long as
they were called Pal ; so 83 reigned,
but the 84th was called Tej Eara, and
having discarded the name of Pal, lost
his kingdom.
This Eachhwaha dynasty was suc-
ceeded by seven Parihara princes, who
ruled for 103 years till 1232 A.D., when
Owalior was taken by Altamsh, in the
21st year of the reign of Sarang Deo.
General Cunningham found an in-
teription on an old stone sugar-mill at
Chitauli between Nurwar and Gwalior,
ihich is dated Samwat 1207 = 1150
ID., in the reign of Ram Deo, which
ipees witii and strongly corroborates
the dates he has accepted.
The capture of Gwalior by Altamsh
«as commemorated in an inscription
placed over the gite of the Urwahi,
ltd the Emperor Babar states that he
aw it, and the date was 630 a.h. =
1232 A.D. Briggs, in a note to Firish-
tah, says it is sl^l to be seen, but
General Cunningham sought for it in
tin. From 1232 to Timar's invasion
in 1398 the Emperor of Delhi used
Gwalior as a state prison. In 1375
A.D. the Tumar chief, Bir Sing
Deo, declared himself independent,
and founded the Tumar dynasty of
Gwalior.
In 1416 and 1421 the Gwalior chiefs
paid tribute to Ehizr Ehan of Delhi,
and in 1424 Gwalior, being besieged
by Hushang Shah of Malwa, was de-
livered by Mubarak Shah of Delhi.
In 1426, 1427, 1429, and 1432, the
Eing of Delhi marched to Gwalior, an(l
exacted tribute. Dimgar Sing, 1425,
commenced the great rock sculptures
at Gwalior, and his son Eirti Sin^,
1 454, completed them. In 1 465 Husain
Sharki, king of Jaunpur, besieged
Gwalior, and obliged it to pay tribute.
Man Sing acknowledged the supremacy
of Bahlol Lodi and of Sikandar Lodi,
but the latter in 1505 marched against
Gwalior, fell into an ambuscade and
was repulsed with great loss. In
1506, however, he captured Himmat-
garh, but passed by Gwalior, which he
despaired of reducing. In 1517 he
maae great preparations at Agra for
the conquest of Gwalior, but died of
quinsy. Ibrahim Lodi had sent an
army of 30,000 horse, 800 elephants,
and other troops, against Gwalior, and
a few days after they reached that place
Man Sing died. He was the ^eatest
of the Tumar princes of Gwalior, and
constructed many useful works, amongst
others, the great tank to the N.W. of
Gwalior, caUed the MoH JML Cun-
ningham says his palace affords the
noblest specimen of Hindu domestic
architecture in N. India. He was a
patron of the Fine Arts, and an elephant
sculptured in his reign, with two riders,
was admired by the Emperor Babar,
Abu-1-Fazl, and the traveller Finch.
After Man Sing's death his son, Vikra-
maditya, sustamed the siege for a year,
but at last surrendered, and was sent
to Agra.
Balmr sent Bahimdad with an army
to Gwalior, which he took by a strata-
gem, suggested by the holy Muhammad
Ghana. In 1542 Abu-1-Easim, Gover-
nor of Gwalior, surrendered his fortress
to Sher Shah. In 1545 Salim, son of
Sher, brought his treasure from Chunar
to Gwalior, and in 1553 died at the
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94
BOUTB 5A. AGRA TO MANIRPUR
latter place. Rana Sah, son of Yikiam,
tried to seize Gwalior, and fought a
great battle, which lasted for three days,
with Akbar's troops there, but was de-
feated. He then went to Chitor. In
1761 Gwalior was taken by Bhim Sing,
the Jat Kana of Gohad, and in 1779
captured by Major Popham from the
Marathas, into whose hands it had
fallen, and restored to the Bana of
Gohad. It was again taken by the
Marathas under Mahadaji Sindia in
1784, and again captured by the English
under General White in 1803, and re-
stored to them in 1805. In 1844, after
the battles of Maharajpur and Paniar,
it was a third time occupied by the
British.
At the time of the Mutiny the great
Maratha prince, Sindia, had, besides
10,000 troops of his own, a contingent
consisting of 2 regts. of Irregular
Cavalry — 1168 men of all ranks, 7
regts. of Infantry aggregating 6412 men,
and 26 guns, with 748 Artillenrmen.
This force was officered by Englishmen,
and the men were thoroughly drilled
and disciplined, and were, in fact, ex-
cellent soldiers, as they proved by de-
feating and almost driving into the
river General Windham's brigade at
Cawnpore.
At this time Sindia was in his 23d
year, an athletic and active man, and
a first-rate horseman and fond of
soldiering. It is admitted that he
could handle troops on parade as well
as most men, and he possessed an
extraordinary liking for the military
profession. Had he decided to throw
m his lot with the rebels he might
have marched to Agra, which was only
65 m. distant, and with his powerful
army must have made himself speedily
master of that city ; and the results
might have been temporarily disastrous
to the British. But Sindia's able minister,
Dinkar Rao, knew something of the
powOT of the English Government ;
knew that though he could have ob-
tained a temporary success he would
be certainly overpowered in the end.
He therefore peorsuaded Sindia to deal
subtilely with uis dangerous army, and
by delays and evasions kept them for a
time from issuing from uieir canton-
ments and adding their formidable
strength to the rebel army. He could
not, however, prevent them killing their
English officers.
^ven officers and several ladies and
children escaped the showers of bullets
that were aimed at them, and reached
the Residency, or Sindia's Palace.
These were sent on by the Maratha
Prince to the Dholpur territory, where
they were most kindly treated and sent
to Agra.
For some months Gwalior was quiet,
thouffh the country round was in
rebeUion, and on the 22d May 1858 a
very important battle was fought in
front of Kalpi in which the mutineers
led by Tantia Topee and the Khanee
of Thausi were severely defeated by
Sir Hugh Rose. They retreated in the
direction of Gwalior.
On the Ist June Sindia with all his
army moved out from Gwalior to meet
them. The engagement took place about
2 m. £. of Morar. Malleson thus de-
scribes it : —
"He had with him 6000 infantry,
about 1500 cavalry, his own bodyguard
600 strong, and 8 guns, ranged in 3
divisions, — his guns centre. About 7
o'clock in the morning the rebels ad-
vanced. As they approached, Sindia's
8 guns opened on them. But the
smoke of the discharge had scarcely
disappeared when the rebel skirmishers
closed to their flanks, and 2000 horse-
men charging at a gallop, carried the
guns. Simultaneously with their
charge, Sindia's infantry and cavalry,
his bodyguard alone excepted, either
joined the rebels or took up a position
indicative of their intention not to
fight . . . The rebels then attacked
the bodyguard, who defended them-
selves bravely, but the contest was too
and Sindia turned and fled.
accompanied by a very few of the sur-
vivors. He did not draw rein tUl he
reached Agra."
The Rhanee thereupon seized the
Fort of Gwalior and proclamed the
Nana as Peishwa. On hearing of this
Sir Hugh Rose, on the 4m June,
marched upon Gwalior. As he neared
it he was joined by Sir Robert Napier
(Lord Napier of Magdala), who took
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ROUTB 6a. GWALIOR
95
eommind of the 2od Brigade, and by
the Hyderabad troops. On the 16th he
cime into touch with the rebels at
Bahadnrpore, near Morar. In spite
of the long and fatiguingmarch which
his force had endured, Sir Hugh attacked
the enemy at once, and £*ove them
from their position.
"The main body of the enemy, driven
through the cantonments, fell back on
a dry nuUah with high banks, running
round a Yillage which they had also
occupied. Here they maintained a
desperate hand-to-hand struggle with
the British. The 71st Hi^landers
suffered severely, Lieutenant Neave,
whilst leading them, falling mortally
wounded ; nor was it till the nullah
was nearly choked with dead that the
Tillaee was carried. The victory was
competed by a successful pursuit and
slaughter of the rebels by Captain
Thompson, 14th Light Dragoons, with
a wing of his regiment
"The result, then, had justified Sir
Hugh's daring. Not only had he dealt
a heavy blow to the rebels, but he
gained a most important strategical
point"
(The visitor to the Fort sees this
battle-field below him to the E. and S.)
Early next morning (the 17 th of
June), Brigadier Smith marched from
Astri and reached £otah-ki-serai, 5 m.
to the S.E. of Gwalior, without opposi-
tioiL There he discovered the enemy
in great force, and showing a disposi-
tion to attack. "Reconnoitring the
groond in front of him, he found it
TeiY difficult, intersected with nullahs
m impracticable for cavalry. He dis-
oorered, moreover, that the enemy's
Cwere in position about 1500 yds.
Kotah-ki-serai, and that their
hoe lay under the hills, crossing the
Mid to Gwalior. Notwithstanding
tliis, Smith determined to attack,
lint he sent his horse artillery to the
fiont, and silenced the enemy's guns,
which limbered up and retired. This
leeomplished, Smith sent his infantry
aeross the broken ground, led by Raines
of the 95th. Raines led his men,
covered by skirmishers, to a point about
M yds. from the enemy's works, when
tha skirmishers made a rush, the rebels
falling back as they did so. Raines then
found himself stopped by a deep ditch
with 4 ft of water," but surmounting
the difficulty he gained the abandoned
entrenchment ** Whilst he was con-
tinuing his advance across the broken
and hilly ground, Smith moved his
cavalry across the river Umrah, close
to Kotah-ki-serai. They had hardly
crossed when tbe^ came under fire
of a battery which till' then had
escaped notice. At the same time a
body of the enemy threatened the
haggage at Kotah-ki-serai. Matters
now became serious. But Smith sent
back detachments to defend the bag^ge
and rear, and pushed forward. The
road, before debouching from the hills
between his position and Gwalior, ran
for several hundred yards through
a defile along which a canal had been
excavated. It was while his troops
were marching through this defile that
the principal fightme took place.
Having gained the farUier end of the
defile, wnere he joined Raines, Smith
halted the infantry to guard it, and
ordered a cavalry charge. This was
most gallantly executed by a squadron
of the 8th Hussars, led by Colonel
Hicks and Captain Heneage. The
rebels, horse and foot, gave way before
them. The hussars captured two guns,
and continuing the pursuit through
Sindia's cantonment, had for a
moment the rebel camp in their pos-
** Amongst the fugitives in the rebel
ranks was the resolute woman who,
alike in counsel and on the field, was
the soul of the conspirators Clad in
the attire of a man and mounted on
horseback, the Rani of Jhansi might
have been seen animating her troops
throughout the day. When inch by
inch the British troops pressed through
the pass, and when reacning its summit
Smith ordered the hussars to charge,
the Rani of Jhansi boldly fronted the
British horsemen. When her comrades
failed her, her horse, in spite of her
efforts, carried her along with the
others. With them she might have
escaped, but that her horse, crossing
the canal near the cantonment
stumbled and felL A hussar, clos«
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96
IIOUTBS 6a. AGRA. TO MAKlKPtR
India
upon her track, ignorant of her sex
and her rank, cut ner down. She fell
to rise no more. That night, her
devoted followers, determined that the
English should not hoast that they
had captured her even dead, burned
her body/'
Following up the operations above
described late into the night of the
19th June^ Sir Hugh regained the
whole place — Morar, the city, the
Lashkar — everything but the Fort,
which was held.by a few fanatics, who
had fii-ed on our advancing troops
whenever they could throughout the
day, and recommenced the following
morning.
"On the morning of the 20th,
lieutenant Rose, 25th Bombay Native
Infantry, was in command with a de-
tachment of his regiment at the kot-
wali, or police-station, not far from the
main gateway of the rock fort As the
guns from its ramparts continued to
fire, Rose proposed to a brother officer.
Lieutenant Waller, who commanded a
small party of the same regiment near
him, that they should attempt to
capture the fortress with their joint
parties, urging that if the risk was
great, the honour would be still greater.
Waller cheerfully assented, and the
two officers set off with their men and
a blacksmith, whom, not unwilling,
they had engaged for the service.
They crept up to the first ^teway
unseen. Then the blacksmith, a
powerful man, forced it open ; and so
with the other five gates that opposed
their progress. By the time the sixth
gate had been forced the alarm was
given, and when the assailants reached
the archwav beyond the last gate, they
were met by the fire of a gun which
had been brought to bear on them.
Dashing onwards, unscathed by the
fire, they were speedily engaged in a
hand-to-hand contest with the garrison.
The fight was desperate, and many
men fell on both sides. The gallantry
of Rose and Waller and their men
carried all before them. Rose especially
distinguished himself. Just in the
hour^ of victory, however, as he was
inciting his men to make the final
charge, which proved successful, a
musket was fired at him from behind
the wall. The man who had fired the
shot, a mutineer from Baraili, then
rushed out and cut him down. Waller
came up, and despatched the rebel;
too late, however, to save his friend.
But the rock fortress was gained," and
continued in British hands till 1886.
The New City or Laahkar.— When
Daulat Rao Sindia obtained possession
of Gwalior in 1794-1805, he pitched
his camp on the open plain to the S.
of the fort. As the camp remained,
the tents soon disappeared, and a new
city rapidly sprung up, which still
retoins the name of Lashkar, or the
camp, to distinguish it from the old
city of Gwalior. The Sara/a, or mer-
chants' (marter, is one of the finest
streets in India. In the Ph/ul Bagh is the
Modem Palace of Maharaja Sindia
(not shown to visitors). In the centre
of Lashkar is the Barah, or Old Palace,
and near it are the houses of the chief
Sardars, or nobles, of the state.
The new buildings worthy of a visit
are the Dufferin Saraij the Victoria
College, and the Tayagi Bao Menumal
Hospital, The modem Temple was
erected by Sindia's mother, and is
mentioned by Fergusson.
Since the occupation of the Lashkar,
the Old City has been gradually decay-
ing, and is now only one-third as large
as the New City. But the two together
still form one of the populous places in
India.
The Old City of Gwalior is a crowded
mass of small fiat-roofed stone houses.
Flanking the city to the N. stands a
curious old Pathan archway, the re-
mains of a tomb. Outside the |;ates is
the Jumma Musjid, with its gilt pin-
nacled domes and lofty minarets. Sir
W. Sleeman says [Rambles, L 847) :
"It is a very beautiful mosque, with
one end built by Muhammad Khan, in
1665 A.D., of the white sandstone of
the rock above it. It looks as fresh as
if it had not been finished a month."
It has the usual two rainars, and over
the arches and alcoves arc carved pas-
sages from the Koran in beautiful Kufik
characters.
Beyond the stream, and just on the
outslcirts of the city, is the noble tomb
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BOUTE 5a. GWALIOR FORT
97
of the Muhammad Oham, a saint
venerated in the time of Bahar and
ilbar. It is of stone, and is one of
the best specimens of Mohammedan
architecture of tlie early Mogul period.
It was built in the early part of
Akbar's reign, and is a square of 100
ft, with hexagonal towers at the four
comeis, attached at the angles instead of
the sides. The tomb is a hall 48 t.
sq., ^th the angles cut oflf by pointed
arches, from which springs a lofty
Patban dome. The walls are 5^ ft.
thick, and are surrounded by a lofty
Terandah, with square bays in centre
of each side, enclosed by stone lattices
of the most intricate and elaborate
patterns. These are protected from
the weather by very bold eaves, sup-
ported on long stone slabs resting on
brackets. The building is of yellowish
gray sandstone. The dome was once
covered with blue glazed tiles. The
whole is choked with whitewash.
Tomb of T^msen, the famous musi-
cian, is a small open building 22 ft.
3q., supported on pillars round the
tombstone. It is close to the S.W.
comer of the large tomb ; hence it is
thought he became a Moslem. The
tamarind tree near the tomb is much
rioted, by musicians, as the chewing of
the leaves is alleged to impart a won-
derful sweetness to the voice. Lloyd,
in 1820, in his Jiywmey to KunawaVy i.
TK 9, says that this is still religiously
believed by all dancing girls. They
stripped the original tree of its leaves
till it died, and the present tree is a
seedling of the original one.
To see Gwalior Fort an order is
necessary : it can be obtained at the
Besideney Office, or from the keeper of
^ Musafir Ehana (the Maharaja's
liiiigalow for strangers). The rest-
houe keeper will make arrangements
far the elephant which the Maharaja
kindly puts at the disposal of visitors,
to meet them at the foot of the steep
aseent to the Fort.
"The great fortress of Gwalior,"
saya Grenenil Cunningham, '* is situated
on a inrecipitous, flat-topped, and iso-
latad hill of sandstone," which rises 300
ft. above the town at the N. end, but
[India]
only 274 ft. at the upper gate of the
principal entrance. The hill is long and
narrow ; its extreme length from N. to
S. is If m., while its breadth varies from
600 ft. to 2800 ft The walls are from
30 to 35 ft. high, and the rock imme-
diately below iiiem is steeply but
irrj^ularly scarped all round the hill.
Tae objects of chief interest are all in
the Fort, with the exception of the tomb
of Muhammad Ghaus, which is passed
on the way there. Notice especiallv the
gateways, the Man, Earan, and Vikram
palaces, the Sas Bahu temples, the Jain
and the* Teli-Ea-Mandir temples, and
the gigantic rock-cut figures.
The view from the Fort is varied and
extensive, but, except during the rainy
season, when the hills are green, the
general appearance of the country is
brown and arid. To the N., on a
clear day, mav be seen the gigantic
temple of Sahamiya, about 30 m.
distant, and still farther in the same
direction the red hills of Dholpur.
To the W. and within gunshot lies the
long flat -topped sandstone hill of
Hanuman, witn a basaltic peak at the
N. end, and a white-washed temple on
its slope, whence the hill has its
name. Bej^ond, far as the eye can
reach, nothmg ia seen but range after
ran^e of low sandstone hills. The
conical peak of the Raipur hill towers
over the lower ranges in the S., and to
the E. the level plains, dotted with
villages, lengthen till they pass out of
sight. On the plain below lies the Old
City of Gwalior, encircling the N. end
of the fortress, and to the S., upwards
of 1 m. distant, is the New City of
Lashkart literally "camp."
The Tnam enJtrance to the Fort is on
the N.E. The ascent was formerly by
many flights of broad steps alternating
with pieces of paved level road, but
these nave been removed, and there is
now a continuous road. The entrance
on the N.E. is protected by 6 Gates
which, beginning from the N., are —
The * Alamgirig&ie built by Mu'tamad
Ehan, Governor of Gwalior, in 1660,
and called after Aurangzib, one of whose
titles was 'Alamgir. it is quite plain,
and the inscription is obliterated.
Inside is a small courtyard, and an
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98
ROUTE 6A. AGRA TO MANIKPUR
Indda
open, hall in which the Mohammedan
governors sat to dispense justice, whence
it is called the Cvicherry,
The BadcUgarh or Hmdola gate has
its name from the outwork Badalgarh,
which was called ^m Badtd Sing, the
uncle of Man Sing. This gate is also
called Hindola, from hindol^ * 'aswinje, "
which existed outside. It is a fine
specimen of Hindu architecture. An
inscription on an iron plate records
its restoration by the Governor Saiyad
'Alam in 1648.
Close under the rock to the rt. is
the stately Oujari Palace, built for the
queen of Man Sing. It measures 800
ft. by 230 ft., and is two stories high.
It is built of hewn stone, but is much
ruined.
The Bhairon or Bansur gate has its
name from one of the earliest Kach-
hwaha Rajahs. It is called Bansur, from
bansor, "an archer," lit. "a bamboo-
splitter," a man who had the charge
of it On one of the jambs is an in-
scription dated 1485 a.d., a year before
the accession of Man Sing.
The Ganesh Gate was built by Dun-
^reli, who reigned 1424 to 1454. Out-
side is a small outwork called KalnUar
KhanOf or " pigeon house," in which
is a tank called Nur Saugar, 60 ft. x
39 ft. and 25 fL deep. Here, too, is a
Hindu temple sacred to the hermit
Gioalipa, from whom the fort had its
name. It isa small square open pavilion,
with a cupola on 4 pillars. There is
also a small mosque with an inscription
which Cunningham thus translates : —
In the reign of the great Prince 'A'lamglr,
Like the foU-shioing moon.
The enlightener of the world,
Traise be to God that this happy place
Was by M'utaraad Khan completed
As a charitable gift.
It was the idol-temple of the vile Owali.
He made it a mosque
Like a mansion of Paradise.
The Khan of enlightened heart,
Nay, light itself from head to foot.
Displayed the divine light like that of mid-day.
He closed the idol temple.
Then follows the chronogram giving
a date corresponding to 1664 A.D.
Before reaching the Zakshman Oate
^^ t ^^Pl® hewn out of the solid
rock and called ChcUur-bhuj-7mndir,
shnne of the four-armed," sacred to
Vishnu, inside which, on the left, is a
long inscription, dated Samwat 9S3 =
876 A.D. it is 12 ft. sq., with a portico
in front 10 ft. by 9 ft supported by four
pillars. There is a tank here, and
opposite to it the tomb of Tiy Nizam,
a noble of the Court of Ibrahim Lodi,
who was killed in assaulting this gate
in 1 5 1 8 A. D. Between the gates on the
face of the rock are carvings of Mahadeo
and his consort, and about 50 Lingams.
There was a colossal group of the Boar
incarnation, 15} ft high, which Cun
ningham thinks to be one of the oldest
sculptures in Gwalior ; it is quite
defaced. A fi^re of an elephant over
the statue has oeen cut away to form a
canopy.
The Hathiya Paur, or Elephant Gate,
was built by Man Sing, and forms part
of his palace. Here was the carving of
an elephant, which Babar and Abu-1-
Fazl praised.
There are threegates ontheN.W. side
of the Fort, which have the general
name of Dhonda Paur^ from an earlv
Kachhwaha Rajah. In an upper outwork
the state prisoners used to be confined.
The S. W. entrance is called Ghaar-
gharj Paur, or Gurgling Gate, either
from a well of that name inside, or
from a redoubt. It has five gates in
succession, threeof which were breached
bv General White. This entrance is
also called Popham by the natives, in
memory of its capture in 1780 by
Captain Bruce, brother of the tra-
veller, who was an officer of Popham's
force. The escalading party had grass-
shoes furnished them to prevent them
slipping, and the cost of these shoes
is said to have been deducted from
Popham's pay.
Gwalior has always been thought
one of the most impregnable fortresses
in Upper India, and is superior to
most in an unfiling supply of water
in tanks, cisterns, and wells. There
are several wells in the Urwahi out-
work, and the water in them is always i
sweet and wholesome, and is now the I
only good drinking water in the fort [
The Suraj Kund, or Sun pool, wasj
built about 275 to 300 A.D., and is the I
oldest in the fort It is 350 ft. by 180l
ft., ^vith a variable depth. It is situ- 1
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ROUTE 5a. GWALIOR FORT
99
ated about 500 ft. N.W. of the Sas-
btbu Temple. The Trikonia Tank is
at the extreme N. point of the Fort,
near the Jayanti-thora, where are two
inscriptions, dated 1408 a.d., and a
little earlier. The Johara tank is in
the N. of the Fort, in front of Shah
Jehan's palace, and has its name from
the Johar, or sacrifice of the Rajput
women there when Altamsh took the
place. The Sas-bahu tank, "mother-
in-law and daughter-in-law," is near
the Padmanath temple, and is 250 ft.
by 150 ft., and 15 ft. to 18 fL deep,
but usually dry, as the water runs
through. The Gangola Tank is in the
middle of the Fort, is 200 ft. sq., and
always has deep water on the S. side.
The Dhobi tank, at the S. end of the
Fort, is the largest of all, being 400 ft.
by 200 ft, but it is very shallow.
There are six Palaces, or mandirs,
in the Fort. (1) The Oujari, already
mentioned.
(2) The Man Sing Palace (1486-
1516, repaired in 1881), rt. on entering
the Fort, is on the edge of the E. cliff.
It was also called the ChU Mandir,
or painted palace, as " the walls are
coTered with a profusion of coloured
tiles — bands of mosaique candelabra,
Brahmin ducks, elephants, and pea-
cocks—enamelled blue, green and gold,
giving to this massive wall an unsur-
passed charm and elegance. The tiles
of this great windowless wall possess
a brightness and delicacy of tint un-
blemished by the 10 centuries which
they have weathered. Nowhere do I
remember any architectural design
capable of imparting similar lightness
to a simple massive wall. The secret
of these enamelled tiles has not yet
been discovered " (Rouselet). It is two
stories high, with two stories of under-
Cd apartments, now uninhabitable
the bats. The £. face is 300 ft.
long and 100 ft. high, and has five
niiasive round towers, surmounted by
open-domed cupolas, and connected at
ton by a battlement of singularly beauti-
fol open lattice-work. The S. face is
160 ft long and 60 ft. high, with three
round towers connected by a battlement
of lattice-work. The N. and W. sides
aie much ruined. The rooms are
arranged roimd two courts, — small but
with singularly beautiful decoration.
(3) The Palace of Vikram is between
the Man and Karan palaces, and con-
nected with them by narrow galleries.
(4) The Karan Palace should be
called the Kirti Mandir. It is long
and narrow, and of two stories. It has
one room 43 ft. by 28 ft., with a roof
supported by two rows of pillars. There
are smaller rooms on either side, and
bath-rooms below, with some fine
plaster-work on the domed ceilings.
Close by to the S. is a hall (1516 a.d.)
36 ft. sq., and the roof is a singular
Hindu dome supported on eight curved
ribs, of which four spring from the side
pillars and four from the angles of the
building. Internally the top of the
dome is a flat square formed by the
intersection of the ribs. The roof is
flat, and once had a pavilion on it.
(5) T?ie Jehaiigiri and (6) Shah
Jehan Pala^xs, at the N. end of the Fort,
are of rubble plastered, and are quite
plain and of no architectural interest.
There are 11 Hindu temples which
have been desecrated by the &1 ohamme-
dans, but are still visited by Hindus at
stated times. These are (i.) the GwaZipa,
and (ii.) the Chatur-hhuj^ both already
mentioned, (iii) The Jayanti-thora
was destroyed by Altamsh in 1232
A.D., but its position is shown by the
name given to the most N. point of the
Fort, where there is a deep rock -cut
well and some pillared arcades with
inscriptions dated 1400 to 1419 a.d.
(iv.) The Teli-Ea-Handir (probable
date, 11th cent., restored 1881-83)
is in the centre of the Fort, overlooking
the UrwahL It is supposed to have
been built by a Tel% or oilman. It is
60 ft. sq., with a portico projecting 11
ft on the E. side. The sides slope
upwards to 80 ft., where the building
ends in a horizontal ridge 30 ft. long.
It is the loftiest building in Gwalior.
The doorway is 35 ft. high, and has a
figure of Garuda over the centre. It
was originally a Vishnavite Temple,
but since the 15th cent, it has been
Shivite. The whole of this very mas-
sive building is covered with sculptures.
The gateway in front of it was formed
out of fragments found in the Fort by
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100
ROUTE 6a. AGRA TO MANIKPUR
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Major Keith. The sculptured frag-
ments set up round the temple were
also collected by him.
(v. vi.) The Sas-bahu or Sdhasra
bahUf "mother-in-law" and "daughter-
in-law," or 1000-armed temples, are two
temples, a large and smaller one near
the middle of the E. wall of the Fort.
There is a long inscription inside the
portico, with the date 1093 a.d.
There are figures of Vishnu over the
main entrances. The great temple, said
to have been built by Rajah Mahipal,
is 100 ft. long by 63 ft. broad. The
entrance is to the N., and the adytum
to the S. The temple is now 70 ft.
high, but the top has been broken,
and General Cunningham thinks it was
once 100 ft. high. It stands on a richly-
carved plinth. The central hall is 31
ft. sq. It is crowded with four massive
pillars to aid in bearing the enormous
weight of its great pyramidal roof.
The construction of the roof is worthy
of study. The temple was dedicated
in 1092 A.D. The small Sas-bahu is
built in the shape of a cross, but consists
of a single story, and is open on all four
sides. The body is 23 ft. sg[., supported
on twelve pillars. The phnth is 6 ft.
high, and is decorated like that of the
great temple. The pillars are round,
with octagonal bases and bracketed
capitals. The lower part of the shafts
in both temples are ornamented with
gi'oups of female dancers. It is a fine
specimen of the ornate style of medi-
aeval Hindu architecture.
(vii.) The Jain Temple was dis-
covered by Glen. Cunningham in 1844,
and is a small building placed against
the E. wall of the Fort, midway
between the Elephant Gate and Sas-
bahu temples. It was built about 1108
A.D. The four other temples, Surya
Deva, Mala Deva, Dhonda Deva, and
Maha Deva, are of less importance.
* * The Bock Sculptures of Gwalior,"
the same authority writes, "are unique
in Northern India, as well for their
number as for their gigantic size.
They are all excavated in the steep
cliff, immediately below the walls of
the fortress, and are most of them easily
accessible. There are small caves and
niches in almost every place where the
face of the rock is tolerably smooth
and steep, but the more prominent
excavations may be divided into five
principal group, which I will designate
according to their positions, as 1st, the
Urwahi group; 2d, the south-western
group ; 3d, the noi*th-westem group ;
4th, the north-eastern group ; 5th, tne
south-eastern group. Of these the
first and the last, which are by far the
most considerable, both in number and
size, are the only sculptures that have
attracted travellers. Most of them
were mutilated, by order of the Emperor
Babar 1527 a.d., only 60 years after
they were made. Babar himself records
the fact in his Memoirs : ' They have
hewn the solid rock of this Adwa, and
sculptured out of it idols of larger and
smaller size. On the south part of it
is a large idol, which may be about 40
ft. in height. These figures are perfectly
naked, without even a rag to cover the
Earts of generation. AdvxL is far from
eing a mean place ; on the contrary it
is extremely pleasant. The greatest
fault consists in the idol figures all
about it. I directed theae idols to he de-
stroyed, * The statues, however, were not
destroyed, but only mutilated, and the
broken heads have since been repaired
by the Jains with coloured stucco.
* ' The Urvjahi group is situated in the
cliff of the S. side of the Urwahi valley,
and consists of 22 principal figures, all
of which are naked. The figures ai-e
accompanied by six inscriptions, dated
Samwatl497, 1510 = 1440 a.d. and 1453,
during the sway of the Tumara Rajahs.
The chief statues are, No. 17, a colossal
figure of Adinath, the first Jain pontiff,
who is known by the symbol of a bull
on the pedestal. This has a long in-
scription dated 1440 a.d. in the reign
of Dungar Sing, which has been trans-
lated by Rajendralala Mitra (see Beng.
As. Soc, Jour, 1862, p. 423). The
largest figure of this group, and of all
the Gwalior sculptures, is the colossus
No. 20, which Babar says is 40 ft
high. Its actual height, however, is
57 ft, or 6i times the length of the
foot, which is just 9 ft. In front of the
statue is a small figure with a squat-
ting figure on each of its four faces.
The extreme W. figure of this group,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ttOUTB 6a. rock SCUliPTtTRUS
101
Ko. 22, is a seated colossus upwards
of 30 ft. high, of Nemnath, 22d Jain
pontifi^ known by a shell on the pedes-
tal Besides the 22 figures there are a
few isolated excavations to the right
and left, now inaccessible from the
falling of the rock-cut steps.
" Tie soiUh-toestem group consists of
fire ^ncipal figures, situated in the
cliflf mimediately below the one-pillar
tank, and just outside the Urwahi wall.
No. 2 is a sleeping female 8 ft long,
lying on her side, with her head to the
i and face to the W. Both thighs are
straight, but the left leg is bent back
underneath the right leg. The figure
is highly polished. No. 3 is a seated
group of a male and female with a
child, who are Siddhartha and Trisala,
the reputed father and mother of the
iuEuit Mahavira, the last of the 24 Jain
pontiffs. The deeping female also is
probably intended for Trisala, to whose
womb, when she was asleep, the foetus
of Mahavira is said to have been trans-
ferred from its true Brahman mother.
" The north-western group is in the
W. cliff of the Fort, immediately N. of
the Dhonda gate. The figures are un-
important, but one of them, Adinath,
has an inscription dated Samwat 1527
= 1470 A.D.
"The north-eastern group is in the
cliff under the Mohammedan palaces,
and above the middle gateways of the
£. entrance. The sculptures are small,
and unaccompanied by mscriptions, and
are, therefore, unimportant. One or
two of the caves are large, but now very
difficult of access.
**The south-eastern group is in the
long, straight cliff of the E. face, just
under the Gangola tank. This is by far
the largest and most important group,
as there are 18 colossal statues from 20
to 30 ft high, and as many more from 8
ft to 1.5 ft, which occupy the whole face
of the cliff for upwards of J m. A few
caves are blocked up, and occupied by
surly mendicant Byragis, who refuse all
admittance, but there isnoreason to sup-
pose they differ from the other caves.
The details are here as tabulated by
General Cunningham.
Caves.
Sculptures.
Dates.
'"■p^^t
Names.
Position.
Height.
Symbol.
Samwat.
A.D.
Feet.
Feet.
1
23X21X27
30
—
—
—
2
10X10X10
8
15X12X17
Adinath
Standing
7
Bull
1530
1473
4 others
1530
1478
4
15X14X16
Adinath
14
Wheel
1525
1468
Nerainath
Shell
1525
1468
5
Adinath
—
Boll
1525
1468
e
26X12X16
Supadma
Sitting
15
Lotus
7
15X10X20
Standing
20
—
—
— .
8
21X10X20
Adinath
Sitting
6
9
16x 7X28
Male figure
Feniiae
Standing
21
—
—
10
lOx 7X16
Lying
—
—
—
—
Chandraprabha
Standing
12
—
—
—
2 others
12
—
—
—
11
12X 8X25
Chandraprabha
Sitting
21
Crescent
1526
1469
12
31X10X25
Sambhunath
21
Horse
—
—
IS
40X10X25
Neminath
Standing
21
Shell
1627
1470
Sambhunath
Sitting
—
—
—
—
Mabayira
Standing
Horse
1525
1468
14
26x16x32
Adinath
Sitting
29
Lion
1525
1468
15
26x16x33
Adinath
Sitting
28
Bull
16
24x22x84
80
—
—
—
17
80x 8x80
Knnthunath
Standing
26
Shantanath
26
Goat
1525
1468
Adinath
26
Antelope
—
—
And 4 others
26
Wheel
-_
18
15x10x30
Standing
26
_^
19
16X10X80
26
—
90
12x 8X20
Adinath
8
Wheel
_
_
SI
27X85X15
—
102
ROUTE 5a. AGRA TO MAKIKPUR
India
The first. European who describes
these statues was Father Montserrat,
who visited Gwalior on his way from
Surat to Delhi, in the reign of Akbar
(see As, Researches^ ix. p. 213).
The Prisons are in a small outwork
on the W. side of the fort, above the
Dhonda gate. They are called the Nau-
chokij nine cells, and are well lighted
and well ventilated ; but must have
been insufferablv close in the hot
season. Here Akbar confined his re-
bellious cousins, and Aurangzib his son
Muhammad, and the sons of Dara and
Murad.
122 m. Datia sta. A town of 28,000
inhabitants, the residence of the Chief
of the Datia state, which contains an
area of 836 sq. m.
The town stands on a rocky height
surrounded by a good stone wall. It
is full of picturesque houses and palaces.
The Raja's present residence stands
within the town surrounded by a pretty
garden. To the W. of the town, beyond
the walls, is a very large palace of
great architectural beauty, now un-
tenanted. A group of Jain temples,
4 m. distant, are curious. Datia is a
place the lover of the picturesque should
not pass by.
138 m. Jhansijuno. sta. (seep. 90).
From Jhansi 7 m. Orchha sta. is the
old capital of Orchha state, the oldest
and highest in rank of all the Bundela
Principalities, and the only one of them
that was not held in subjection by the
Peshwa. It is built on both banks of
the Betwa. There is an Imposing
fortress, connected by a wooden bridge
with the rest of the tewn, containing
the former residence of the Rajah, and a
palace built for the accommodation of
the Emperor Johangir.
Tehri {Tekamgarh)y the present
capital, in the S. W. comer of the stete,
is about 40 m. S. from Orchha, with
which town and Baumari it is connected
by road.
18 m. Barwa.Saugarsta.,D.B. The
town IS picturesquely situated at the
*bot of a rocky ridge on the shore of the
Barwa-SaugarLake,an artificial sheet of
water formed by a masonry embank-
ment f m. in length, constracted by
Udit Sing, Raja of Orchha, between
1705-37, containing two craggy, wooded
islete. Below, a tract of lanoTextending
over 4 m., is thickly planted with mango
and other trees, often of great age and
enormous size. N. W. of tne town rises
a fine old castle also built by Udit Sing,
but now uninhabited. 3 m. W. stand
the remains of an old Chandel temple
built of solid blocks of stone, carved
with the figures of Hindu gods, much
defaced by Mussulmans. The town
consiste of three diviaions separated by
stretehes of cultivated land, and the
houses are prettily embosomed in foli-
age.
40 m. Man ste., D.B. (pon. 23,500).
Mail Ranipur is, next to Jhansi, the
principal commercial town of Jliansi
district. Its buildings are remarkably
picturesque, in the style peculiar to
Bundelkund, with deep eaves between
the first and second stories, and hanging
balconies of unusual beauty. Trees line
many of the streete, and handsome
temnles ornament the town ; the prin-
cipal being that of the Jains with two
solid spires and several cupolas. An
old bnck- built Fort with bastions
adjoins the bazaar and conteins the
public offices. The town is of quite
modern commercial importence, having
risen from the position of a small agri-
cultural village since 1785, through the
influx of merchants from Chhatarpor.
Kharwa cloth is manufactured and
exported to all parte of India.
67 m. Jaitpur ste. The town was
formerly the capitel of a native state.
It is picturesquely situated on the banks
of the Bela Tal. Probably founded in
the early part of the 18th centory by
Ja^traj, son of the famous Bundela
Raja, Chatar Sal, who built the large
fort still in existence. The town
resembles a collection of separate vil-
lages, fully 2 m. in length, but ver}'
narrow. Handsome temple ; two forti
one of which could contidn almost
the whole population.
The Bela Tal, a teuk or lake damm<
Digitized by VjOOQIC
jrj-
ts.
wt I
1
ROtfTfi 5a. MAliOBA
lOS
ap with solid masonry by the Chandel
ralers of Mahoba in the 9th century
extends for 5 m. in circumference, but
is now very shallow, the embankment
having burst in 1869.
86 m. Mahoba sta. D.B. The town,
founded about 800 a.d. by Raja Chan-
dra Varmma, stands on the side of the
Madan Saugar Lake, constructed by the
Chandel Rajas, and consists of three
distinct portions — one N. of the central
hill known as the Old Fort ; one on
the top of the hill known as the Inner
Fort ; and one to the S. known as Dariba.
Architectural antiquities of the Chandel
period abound throughout the neigh-
bourhood. The Ram Kund marks the
place where Chandra Varmma, founder
of the dynasty, died j and the tank
is believed to be a reservoir into which
the united waters of all holy streams
pour themselves. The Fort, now almost
mlirely in ruins, commands a beautiful
tiew over the hills and lakes. The
temple of Munia Devi, partially reno-
rated, has in front of its entrance a
stone pillar inscribed to Madana Varm-
ma. Of the lakes, confined by magni-
ficent masonry dams, two have greatly
silted up ; but the Kirat and Madan
Saugars, works of the 11th and 12th
centuries, still remain deep and clear
^eets of water. The shores of the
lakes and the islands in their midst
are thickly covered with ruined temples,
monstrous figures carved out of the
solid rock, pillars, broken sculpture,
aod other early remains, while on the
hills above stand the summer-houses
of the early Rajas, and shrines over-
hang the edge. Relics of Jain temples
and Buddhist inscriptions also occur.
The existing monuments of Moham-
medan date include the tomb of Jalhan
Khan, constructed from the fragments
of a Shivite temple, and a mosque also
bailt of Chandel materials.
The modem town contains a tahsil^
police-station, post office, school, dis-
pensary, and D.B.
[34 m. S. of Mahoba is the ancient
decayed town of Khajaraho, formerly
he capital of the old province of
Jahoti. Hiouen Thsang mentions it in
the 7 th century ; and General Cunning-
ham attributes to the same date a
single pillared tendple called Ganthai,
and a nigh mound which probably
conceals the ruins of a BuddMst mon-
astery. Upwards of 20 temples still
stand in the town, and the ruins of at
least as many more bear witness to its
former greatness. In one alone General
Cunningham counted over 800 statues
half life-size, and 8 sculptured ele-
phants of like proportions. The inner
shrine of this edifice constituted in it-
self a splendid temple, and was crowded
with figures. Captain Burt noticed
seven large temples of exquisite carving,
whose mechanical construction adapted
them to last for almost indefinite
periods. Most or all of these noble
buildings and the inscriptions found
in the neighbourhood must be referred
to the Chandel dynastjr, who ruled at
Ehajuraho apparently from 870 to 1200
A.D. The modern village contains only
about 160 houses.]
119 m. Banda sta. ajc (R.), D.B., isa
municipal town and the administrative
headquarters of Banda district. It
stands on an undulating plain 1 m.
E. of right bank of the Ken river.
The modem town derived its im-
portance from the residence of the
Nawab of Banda, and from its position
as a cotton mart. After the removal
of the Nawab in 1858 owing to his dis-
loyalty during the Mutiny, the town
began to decline, while the growth of
Rajapur as a rival cotton emporium
has largely deprived Banda of this
trade. The town is straggling and ill
built, but with clean wide streets.
It contains 66 mosques, 161 Hindu
temples, and 6 Jain temples, some of
which possess fair architectural merit
Cantonments 1 m. from the town on
the Fatehpur Road.
162 m. Earwi sta. (pop. 4100). In
1805 the town formed a cantonment for
British troops, and in 1829 it became
the principal residence of the Peshwa's
representative, who lived in almost
regal state, built several beautiful tem-
ples and wells. Numerous traders from
th e Deccan were thus attracted to Karwi.
d by Google
104
ftOUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
During the Mutiny Narayan Rao, after
the murder at Banda of Mr. Cockerell,
Joint-Magistrate of Karwi, assumed the
government, and retained his independ-
ence for eight months amid the subse-
quent anarchy. The accumulations of
his family constituted the great treasure
afterwards so famous as the **Kirwee
and Banda Prize Money. " It was kept
in a vault of the Bara, a large building
forming the palace of Narayan Rao's
family. Since the Mutiny the pro-
sperity of Karwi has gradually declined.
There is a magnificent temple and tank
with masonry well attached, known as
the Ganesh Bagh, built by Vinayak Rao
in 1837. There are five mosques and
as many Hindu temples.
181 m. Manikpur junc. sta. of £. I.
Rly. and Jubbulpore Kly. (see p. 36.)
ROUTE 6
Bombay to Delhi through Baroda,
Ahmedabad, Ajmere, Bandikui,
AND JeYPORB.
Rail. 890 m. Mail trains 40^ hrs. in
transit. Through fares approximately,
first class 56 rs., second class 28 rs.,
and servants 9 rs. For some railway
rules see Rte. 1, p. 26. The route
is throughout by the 6. B. and C. I.
Rly. Tnere is a chan^ of ^uge at
Ahmedabad. The stations in Bombay
are Colaba,^ Church Gate Station^ and
GrarU Road^ where ample time is given.
9 m. Hahim sta., where the rly.
crosses a causeway connecting the
island of Bombay with the island of
Salsette. The country is flat, studded
with villages and cocoa-nut groves.
The Scottish Orphanage^ established
here in 1859, is the only institution of
the kind in the Bombay Presidency.
10 m. Bandarasta., 1., on sea-shore, a
favourite residence for persons who have
daily business in Bombay ; it is nearly
surrounded by water, and is cooler than
Bombay. Several chapels built by the
Portuguese still exist here, notably
that of Mount Mary, held in respect
1 It la advisable to start flpom the Ctolaba
terminus to ensure getting places.
for miles around by all the inhabitants.
Christian and otherwise.
Here are a R. C. convent for orphans,
and a school for orphan boys.
18 m. Ctoregaon sta. About 1 mUe
from the sta. are the famous Hindu
caves of Jogeshwar. See " Sights in
the vicinity of Bombay, No. (6), p. 26.
22 m. Borivli sta. is near the Caves
of Montpezir (see p. 22) and the ruins
of a Jesuit monastery of the 16th
century. The Caves of Eanheri (see p.
23) are only 5 m. distant, but are more
easily visited from the Talsi Lake.
22 m. Bhayandar sta., on the S.
edffe of the Baisseln creek, which divides
Sa^tte from the mainland. Persons
who have made arransements to visit
the ruins of Bassein by boat or by steam
launch, embark at this station. The rail-
way here crosses the river by a very long
bridge. On the right, and for some miles
up the stream, the scenery is most
beautiful — the Kamandru^ Hills and
Ghodbandar, with the quiet water be-
tween them, forming a tropical landscape
as charming as can be seen in India.^
83 m. Basseiii Boad sta., i^ D.B.
The ruins are distant about 5 m.
The first notice we have of Bassein
is in 1532, when the Portuguese ravaged
the neighbourhood and burned all the
towns hetween it and Chikli Tara-
pur. In 1534 they took Daman, which
they still hold, and obliged Sultan
Bahadur of Guzerat, then hard pressed by
the Emperor Humayun, to cede Bassein
in perpetuity. "For more than 200
years Bassein remained in the hands of
the Portuguese, and during this time
it rose to such prosperity that the city
came to be called the Court of the
North, and its nobles were proverbial for
their wealth and magnificence. "With
plentiful su]5plies of both timber and
stone, Bassein was adorned by many
noble buildings, including a cathedral,
5 convents, 13 churches, and an asylum
for orphans. The dwellings of the
Hidalgos, or aristocracy, who alone were
allowed to live within the city walls,
1 Write beforehand to station-master foe
a tonga.
d by Google
ROUTE 6. SURAT
106
are described (6175) as stately build-
ings " (Hunter.) On the 17th February
1765 the Marathas invested Bassein,
and the town surrendered on the 16th
of May, after a most desperate resist-
ance, in which thocommandant> Silveii-a
de Mineyes, was killed, and 800 of the
garrison killed and wounded, while the
Maratha Iosk was U])wards of 5000. On
the 13th of November 1780 General
Goddard arrived before Bassein, and on
the 28th his first battery oj)ened against
it He had very powerful artillery, and
one battery of 20 mortars, which shortly
after opened at the distance of 500 yds.,
and did great execution. The place
surrendered on the 11th December, on
which day Colonel Hartley, with a cover-
ing army of 2000 men, defeated the
Maratha relieving army of upwards of
24,000 men, and killed its distinguished
General, Ramchandra Ganesh.
The Fort with the ruins stands on
the Bassein Creek, a little away from
the sea. The fort is now entered from
the N. There is a road through the
town ^m the rly. sta.
The Old Town, 5 m. from the sta.,
sorronnded by walls and ramparts,
contains the ruins of the Cathedral of
St Joseph and other churches built by
Boman Catholic missionaries in the
14th and 15th centuries. Several in-
scriptions remain, the earliest dated
1536. A guide is necessary to point
oat the various ruins. Among them
are the church of St Anthony, the
Jesuits* church, and the churches and
convents of the Augustinians and Fran-
ciacans.
Fryer, describing the town in 1675,
says: "Here were stately dwellings
gnced with covered balconies and large
windows, two stories high, with panes
of oyster shell, which is the usual glaz-
ing among9t them (the Portuguese) in
India, or else latticed."
Close to these venerable ruins is a
modem temple of Shiva.
116 m. Udvada sta., remarkable as
containing the oldest Fire Temple in
India It is believed that the fire still
kept alive is that which was originally
brought from Persia by the Parsis and
first kindled here in 700 a.d.
108 m. Daman Boad sta.,^ D.6.
Daman (7 m. W.) is a Portuguese
settlement subordinate to Goa. It was
attacked and taken in 1531, and again
in 1535, and finally captured by the
Portuguese in 1559. The town is situ-
ated on the Daman Gunga river, which
has a bad bar. Outside is a roadstead.
The place in the days of small ships
had a very considerable trade. It has
a fort on each bank of the river. In
the main fort, on left bank, are the
ruins of an old monastery and two
churches, — onlv Christians may reside
within the walls. In it are the houses
of the governor and his staff and the
public offices. The smaller fort of St.
Jerome opposite is more modem.
125 m. Balsar sta. This place is
occasionally used as a rest -camp, and
near it is the village of Tithiil on the
sea -coast, where many inhabitants of
Guzerat resort in the hot season. There
are fine sands and a grand rolling sea.
149 m. Navsari sta. (pop. 16,276,
including 4,452 Parsis). The capital
of the Gaekwar's southern possessions,
and the headquarters, from the earliest
days, of the rarsi community. Here
the Zoroastrian Priesthood receive their
initiation and confirmation. The Tovm
Hall is an imposing building. A
Parsi has established here a manu-
factory of essences and soaps on Euro-
pean principles.
167 m. SURAT sta. sQc (R.) The name
is derived by Sir Henry Elliot and
others from Saurastra, the ancient
name of the peninsula of Eattjrwar,
with which it was the principal port
of communication. In the 12th cent,
the Parsis, who were driven from Persia
200 yrs. before, and had settled in
Sanjan 70 m. from Surat, found their
way here on the death of the Sanjan
chief. There are now some 89,900
Parsis in India, but though many
of them are still to be found here,
the greater number — about 47,500—
are settled in Bombay. Amongst
Indian cities it is not a place of anti-
quity, but it had a large trade at the
end of the 15th cent, and in the 18th
was one of the most populous and
important mercantile cities in India,
the port being much frequented by
Digitized by VjOOQIC
106
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DEtHl
India
British and other European traders. It
is the seat of a collectorate, is situated
on the river Tapti, and is surrounded
on the land side by a wall about 5^ m.
round, with 12 gates. Except the main
street running from the station road to
the castle, the streets in Surat are nar-
row and tortuous, and many of them
still bear marks of the creat fire in
1837, which raged for nearly two days,
when 9378 houses were destroyed, and
many persons perished. Again in 1889
a fire broke out which raged for over
12 hrs., and destroyed 1350 shops and
houses. In 1 896 Lord Elgin here inaugur-
ated the new " Rupee Railway " a local
joint-stock enterprise, to run up the
valley of the Tapti.
The population of Surat as late as
1797 was estimated at 800,000, but as
Bombay rose Surat declined, until in
1841 it had only 80,000 inhabitants.
From 1847 its prosperity gradually in-
creased, and the population now (1891)
numbers 109,000.
The Portuguese found their way to
the place soon after their arrival in
India, and in 1512 sacked the then open
town. On the 19th January 1573 it
surrendered to Akbar after a siege of 1
month and 17 days. Early in the 17 th
cent, the English began to visit it, and
in 1612 the Moeul Emperor sent
down a finnan, authorising an English
minister to reside at his court, and
opening to English subjects the trade
at Surat. In 1615 Captain Downton,
with four ships, mounting 80 guns,
defeated the Portuguese fleet, consist-
ing of four galleons, three other large
ships, and 60 smaller vessels, mounting
in all 134 guns. This victory estab-
lished the reputation of the English
for war, and their superiority over the
Portuguese. The Dutch trade with
Surat commenced in 1616, and for some
years the Dutch Factory competed
successfully with the English at Surat.
The French Factory was not founded
till 1668, when the agents of the French
East India Company, which Colbert had
established in 1664, settled at Surat
On January the 6th of the same year
the prosperity of Surat received a
severe blow from Shivaji, the founder
of the Maratha Empire, who with
4000 horse surprised the city, and
plundered it for six days. He laid
siege to the English factory, but all his
attempts to take it failed on account
of the gallantly of the few factors who
defended it. Their courageous defence
so pleased Aurangzib, that he sent Sir
G. Oxenden a robe of honour, and
granted the English an exemption from
customs. The walls of Surat up to
this time were of mud, but they were
now ordered to be built of brick. Surat
was again partially pillaged by the
Marathas in 1670, 1702, and 1706.
About this timecommenced thedispntes
of the rival London and English Com-
panies ; and on the 19th of January
1700 Sir Nicholas Waite, Consul for
the King, and President of the New
Company, arrived at Surat. The
struggle of the Companies continued
till 1708, when they were united. A
new era now began to dawn upon the
English at Surat. They were fast ap-
proaching the period when they were
to acquire political influence m the
city, which was then regarded as the
greatest emporium of W. India.
In 1759 the Nawab signed a treaty
by which the castle and fleet were
made over to the English with a yearly
stipend of 200,000 rs. This arrange-
ment was confirmed by the Emperor at
Delhi, and the English authority was
firmly established in Surat. In 1842
the last titular Nawab died, and the
flag of Delhi was removed from the
castle.
The Castle, so prominent in the
early annals of the English in W.
India, stands on the bank of the river,
and was built by a Turkish soldier about
1540. It is an uninteresting brick
building with walls about 8 ft. thick,
much modernised. There is a good
view of the city and river from the
S.W. bastion. Over the E. gateway is
an inscription.
Factories. — The remains of the JSng-
lish Factory are near the way to the
Katargaon Gate, close to the river.
The building is now a private dwelling.
N. of it is the Portuguese Factory, where
some records are still kept. A wooden
cross marks the site of the church.
Close to this are the vacant site of the
y Google
ROtTTB 6. BROACH
107
French Lodge and the Persian Factory.
AdjoiDing the castle is the well-kept
Victoria Gfarden, of 8 acres. There is
a fine view of the town from the Clock
Totoer,
In the ETvglisk Cemetery^ N. of the
city on the Broach Road, is (on the rt.
on entering) the mausoleum of Sir
George Ozendon, and near it the tomb
of his brother Christopher.
The Dutch Cemetery is also curious
from the great size of the monuments.
The most striking is that of Baron van
Rheede, a learned man, who was the
author of the valuable work, ** Hortus
Mcdabaricus," and made valuable col-
lections of books and curiosities, which
he sent to Holland.
The chief Mosques are—
1. Khwajah Diwan Sahib's Mosque,
buUt about 1530. He is said to have
come to Surat from Bokhara, and to
have lived to the age of 116. 2. The
Nau Saiyad Mosque, '* Mosque of the
Nine Saiyads," on the W. bank of the
Gopi I^e. 3. The Sayyad Idrus Mosque,
in Sayyadpura, with a minaret, one of
the most conspicuous objects in Surat ;
it was bnilt in 1639, in honour of the
ancestor of the present Eazi of Surat.
4. The Mirza SamiMosque, built 1540 by
Khndawand Ehan, who built the castle.
The Tombs of the Bohras deserve a
visit. There are two chief Parsi ftre-
temples, built in 1823. The Hindu sect
of the Walabhacharis has three temples.
The Swami Narayan temple, with three
white domes, is visible all over the city.
In the two old temples in the Ambaji
ward the shrines are 15 ft. underground,
a relic of Mohammedan persecution.
The Shravaks, or Jains, have 42 temples,
the chief of which are from 150 to 200
years old. There are several steam
Cotton Mills here ; and carved sandal
wood and inlaid work form important
industries.
Across the Hope Bridge 3 m. is
Sander^ built on the site of a very
ancient Hindu city, destroyed by the
Mohammedans in the 12th century.
The Jumma Musjid stands on the site
of the principal Jain Temple. In the
fa9ade the bases of the Jain columns
ure still visible, and the great idol is
l^aced head downwards as a doorstep
for the faithful to tread on in entering
the mosque. In another mosque are the
wooden columns and domes belonging
to the Jain Temple, which are the only
wooden remains of the kind in Guzerat.
2 m. after leaving Surat the Tapti or
Tapi river is crossed by a very long
bridge, and close to BroRohthe Nerbudda
or J^rmada river is passed on the finest
Bridge on the B. B. and C. I. Railway.
From it a good view is obtained on left of
203 m. Broach sta. (R.) D.B.
{B?iaroch), is a place of extieme
antiquity, but unmterestin^. Pop.
37,000. Part of the town is withm
about J m. from railway station. The
author of the PeripluSt 60-210 A.D.,
mentions Broach under the name of
Barugaza. It was then ruled by a Gurj -
jara prince, probably a feudatorv of some
larger state, and subsequently fell under
l^e rule of the Chalukyas. The Mos-
lems appeared in the 8th cent., and
Broach was ruled by them from 1297
to 1772. In 1613 a.d. it was first
visited by Aldworth and Withington,
English merchants, and in 1614 a house
was hired for a factory, permission to
establish which was granted to Sir
Thomas Roe by Jehangir in 161 6. The
Dutch set up a factory in 1617. In
1686 the Marathas plundered Broach.
On the 18th of November 1772 the
British troops stormed the place with
the loss of their commander. General
Wedderbum, whose tomb is at the
N. W. corner of the Fort. On the 29th
of August 1803 Broach was again taken
by storm by the British.
The Nerbvdda here is a noble river,
1 m. in breadth. The city with its
suburbs covers a strip of land 2^ m. long
and f m. broad, hence by its inhabitants
it is called Jibh, or " the tongue. " The
Fort stands on a hill more than 100 ft.
above the river, and a massive stone
wall lines the river bank for about 1
m. The streets are narrow, and some
of them steep. The houses are of plain
brick, two stories high, with tiled
roofs. In the Fort are the Collector's
Office, the Civil Courts, the Dutch
Factory, the Jail, the Civil Hospital,
the English Church and School, the
Municipal Office, aiid the JLibrary.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
108
ROUTE 6. . BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
The Dutch tombs are 2 m. W. of the
Fort, and some 100 yds. otf the road 1.
Two of them are from 16 to 20 ft. high.
Opposite the Dutch tombs are five
Tovjers of Silence^ one of them about
15 ft high. The second tower is still in
use. Outside the E. gate on the river
bank is the Temple of BhriguBishi, from
whom the town got the name of Brigu-
kackha, contracted into Bharuoh.
Broach is celebrated for its cotton
there are two spinning and weaving
mills and several ginning and cotton
pressing factories.
[10 m. to the E. of Broach is the
celebrated place of Hindu pilgrimage,
Shukaltirth. It is on the N. or right
bank of the Nerbudda, and here Chan-
akya, King of Ujjain, was purified of
his sins, having arrived at this holy
spot by sailing down the Nerbudda in a
boat with black sails, which turned
white on hisreachingShukaltrith. Here
too Chandragupta and his minister,
Chanakya, were cleansed from the guilt
of murdering Chandragupta's eight
brothers, and here Chamund, King of
Anhilwada, in the 11th century, ended
his life as a penitent. There are three
sacred waters — the Kavi, the Hunkar-
eshwar, and the Shukal. At the second
of these is a temple with an image of
Vishnu. The temple is not remark-
able. There is a fair here in November,
at which 25,000 people assemble. Op-
posite Mangleshwar, which is 1 m. up
stream from Shukltirth, in the Ner-
budda, isan island in which is the famous
Banian Tree called the Kabir wad, or
**the fig-tree of Kabir," from whose
toothpick it is said to have originated.
It has suffered much from floods.
Forbes, who visited Broach 1776-88,
says in his Oriental Memoirs^ i p. 26,
it enclosed a space within its principal
stems 2000 ft. in circumference. It had
350 large and 3000 small trunks, and
had been known to shelter 7000 men.
Bishop Heber, in April 1825, says
though much had been washed away,
enough remained to make it one of the
vmost noble groves in the world. A
8i«iall temple marks the spot where the
orignnal trunk grew.]
<. 4n,i^.* "^y"««»i i^nc. sta. This is
a 3^^-tion of a system of narrow gauge
railways (2' 6") owned by the Gaekwar
of Baroda and worked by the B.B.
and C. I. Rly. Dabhoi is the place of
chief interest on these lines, and may
best be visited by leaving the main line
at Miyagam and rejoining it at Viik-
vamitri jmiction, 2 m. S. of Baroda sta.,
if the traveller intends continuing his
journey; but for seeing the ci^ of
Baroda, it may be better to leave the
train at Goya Gate sta.
[From Miyagam 20 m. DabhM, a town
belonging to the state of Baroda. Pop.
16,000. The ancient Hindu architec-
ture of this place is most interesting,
and is little known. It appears to
have escaped notice by James Fergusson,
whom it would have delighted. The Fort
is said to have been built by the Vaghela
king of Patau in the 13th century.
The Baroda Gate is 31 ft high,
with elaborately carved pilasters on
either side. Tne carvings represent
the incarnations of Vishnu, and
njrmphs sporting with heavenly alliga-
tors. Near this the interior colonnades
in the Fort walls are very interesting.
They afford shelter to the garrison.
The roofs give an ample rampart, but
they indicate no fear of the breaching
power of artillery. Pass then through
dusty streets, in which the houses are of
immense solidity, and built of burnt
brick much worn by the weather, to the
S. or Nandod gate, which is 29 ft
high and 16 ft. 4 in. wide. Trees have
grown in the walls and fractured them
with their thick roots. The Hira Gate
in the E. face of the town is 37 ft.
high, and a marvel of minute carviug.
On the spectator's left as he looks out
from inside the tower, is the temple of
Maha Kali, and on his right beyond the
gate and inside it is a smaller temple,
now quite ruined. These gates are well
worth attention. The Temple of Maha
Kali is a wondrous example of carving,
which when new must have been very
beautiful, but is now much worn by
the weather. The carving of the gate
outside the town is elaborate. About
10 ft. up in the N. face of the centre, a
man ana woman are carved 4 ft. high,
standing with a tree between them,
like the old representations of Adam
and Eve. To the left is the tall figure
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 6. BARODA
109
of a devil, with a ghastly leer. High
in the centre face is an elephant, under
which the hoilder of the gate is said to
have heen interred. On the N. side
of the town is what was the palace, in
which the law courts now sit. There is a
fine tank on this side and the Mori gate.
(From Dahhoi a branch rly. runs 10 m.
S. to Chandod sta. , a celebrated place
of Hindu pilgrimage, owing to its
situation at the confluence of the
NerhvMa and the Or, Thousands
flock there every full moon. On the
further side of the Nerbudda the ter-
ritory of the Rajah of Rajpipla is
entered).
29 m. Bahadarpur sta. The line is
in construction K to
38 m. Songir, where there are
quarries of fine marble.
(15 m. N.E. of Bahadarpur is the
fortified mountain of Pauxingarh and
f^-. mined city of Champanirf (see p.
ilO).]
^tt m. BABODA sOe (R.) is the capi-
tal of the very important Maratha
state of the Gaekwar, which with its
dependencies covers an area of 8570
sq. m., with a pop. of 2,415,400.
The CantonrnerU and Besidevvcy are a
long m. N. from the railway station and
adjoin one another. They are well
laid out with open well-planted roads.
The city of Baroda is S. £. of the can-
tonment, about 1 m. It is a large busy
place, with a pop. of 116,400, but con-
tains few sights to detain a traveller.
TTie Vishvamitri river flows W. of the
town, and is spanned by four stone
bridges, which exhibit great contrasts
of ttyle. The city proper is intersected
at right angles by two wide thorough-
fores, which meet in a market-place,
where there is ajinepaviluni of Moham-
■9dan architecture. The new Lakshmi
'^Qas Palace, seen from the railway
towering above the town, cost 27 lacs
of rupees. Passes to view it can be ob-
tained from the Governor Gen.'s Agent.
The suburban palace Mukhapnra is 4
a. 8. of the city. There are also many
other handsome modem buildings,
amongst which may be mentioned the
JUanhUmess of Dufferm*8 Hospital^ the
baroda Stale lAhrary^ the Central Jail^
tJfca Barvda College^ and the Anglo-
Vemacula/r School. The English
Church was consecrated by Bishop
Heber 1824, and in 1838 was almost
entirely rebuilt. There is a good
public garden between the canton-
ments and the city on the banks of the
Vishvamitri river. ^
The Naulakhi Wdl is 50 yds. N. of
the new palace. It is a beautiful
structure of the Baoli class, described
generally below. The water from it is
pumped by steam into pipes leading to
the city, the Moti Bagh, and Nazar
Bctgh.^ Twenty yds. beyond the Nazar
Bagh Gate on the rt. in a barrack are
some small gold field-pieces mounted
on silver-plated carriages. They con-
tain 280 lbs. weight each of solid gold,
and are drawn by splendid milk-white
bullocks, stabled hard by.
Baroda is supplied with water from
the artifical Jjtoa Lake, 18 m. distant,
which possesses ah area of 4*71 sq. m.
It was completed in 1892, at a cost of
35 lakhs.
The BcLolis, in Guzerat, are large
wells. The following account of these
structures is given by Mr. A. Kinloch
Forbes, in his interesting work on
Guzerat, the Bas MaXa : "Of the wells
of this period there remain in different
parts of the country examples of two
kinds. Some are large circular wells
of ordinary construction, but contain-
ing galleried apartments ; others are
more properly described as *ivavs* or
*baoli8.* The tiniv is a large edifice,
of a picturesque and stately, as well as
peculiar, character. Above the level of
the ground a row of four or five open
pavilions, at regular distances from
each other, usually square in the
interior, but sometimes, in the larger
examples, passing into the octagonal
form within, is alone visible ; the roofs
are supported on columns, and are, in
the stractures of the Hindu times,
pyramidal in form. The entrance to
the wav is by one of the end pavilions ;
thence a flight of steps descends to a
landing immediately under the second
dome, which is now seen to be sup-
ported by two rows of columns, one
1 The Old Palace and Toshah Khana are well
worth a visit.
2 A much finer specimen ot this class or
wells is to be found at Ahmedabad.
Digitized byLjOOQlC
110
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
over the other. A second flight of
steps continues the descent to a similar
landing under the third pavilion,
where the screen is found to be three
columns in height In this manner
the descent continues stage by stage,
the number of the columns increasing
at each pavilion, until the level of the
water is at last reached. The last
flight of steps frequently conducts to
an octagonal structure, in this position
necessarily several stories high, and
containing a gallery at each story. It
is covered by the terminating dome,
and is the most adorned portion of the
wav. The structure, which is some-
times 80 yds. in length, invariably
terminates in a circular well."
At Baroda the traveller has entered
the part of Guzerat that is most fertile
and park-like. It will be a pity to
pass through it in the dark. Nearly
every village has its tank and its temple,
large well-grown trees abound, and the
fields, which are lichly cultivated, are
surrounded by high hedges of milk
bush {Euphorbia tintcalli). The small
game shooting is exceptionally good.
[An expedition may be made from
Baroda by the Gaekwar*s narrow gauge
rly. to the fortified mountain of Pawan-
gcurhf and the ruined city of Ghampanir;
the distance is about 38 m. Cham-
pauir was long the residence of the
kings. After many vicissitudes it was
taken in 1484 by Mahmud Begada of
Ahmedabad, whomadeithis capital, and
in 1535 it was besieged by Humayun,
Emp. of Delhi. In person he scaled the
precipices of the Fort by the aid of iron
spikes driven into the rock, and opened
the gate to admit his army. There are
remains of many mosques, tombs, and
tanks in the lower city; and in the
forest for miles around may bo found
the ruins of massive wells, minarets,
and palaces, which testify to the former
greatness of Chamianir ^].
270 m. Anand junc. sta.
[(a) One branch line from this sta, ex-
tendsN.E. to 76m. OodliraandRutlain.]
18 m. Dakor sta. There is a "
miZ^ 1^® architecture of Champanir, Mah-
lake, and a temple with an image much
venerated by the Hindus. As many aa
100,000 pilgiims assemble in October
and November.
About 20 m. N. of Dakor is the
walled town of
Eapadvanj, D.B., noted for its in-
dustry in soap^ glass, and leather jars
for **ghee." The glass is made by
Mohammedans in large earthen fur-
naces in form like huge slipper baths,
the floor sloping towards holes pre-
pared to receive the melted sub-
stance. The furnace inside is baked
as hard and looks as white and slippery
as ice. The component parts of
the glass are alkali, us, an impure soda
compound partly carbonate and partly
silicate, sajj'i khdr, and a dark-coloured
flinty sand from Jeypore. These are
mixed together, placed in the famaces,
and thoroughly boUed for hours.
When ready, the boiling mass is
allowed to run into a trench to cooL^
It is then broken into small pieces,'
remelted, and in this liquid state made
into bangles, beads, bottles, glasses,
and fancy animals, chiefly peacocks.
The last are extremely thin and brittle.
This glass goes chiefly to Bombay and
Eathy war. Midway between Dakor and
Eapadvanj are the hot springs of Las-
sundra, the highest temperature being
115^ The water is slightly sulphurous
and efficacious in skin diseases. There
is a small D.B. in the cantonment.]
[(h) Another line runs S. W. 15 m. to
Petlad, a commercial town, pop. 15,528.
15 m. S.W. of Petlad is Cambay,
the capital of the Native State of that
name, pop. 31,390. The town and
port are of great antiquity. In A.D.
913 Cambay is described by the Arab
traveller Masudi as standing on the
shores of a deep bay surrounded by
towns, villages, farms, cultivated fields,
trees, and gardens. It was governed
by the kings of Anhilvada (the modem
Patau), up to the end of the 13th cent
Mohammedan writers of the period call
it the * * first city in Hind. " The beauty
and wealth of the country led to its
invasion by the Mohammedan Emperor
Ala-ud-din in 1304, when the city was
plundered and its temples destroyed.
Cambay reached the height of its
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 6. AHMEDABAD
111
glory under the Mohammedans at the
latter end of the 15th and beginning
of the 16th cents., and in 1583, letters
carried by Fitch, Leedes, and New-
berry from Queen Elizabeth, were ad-
dressed to Akbar as King of Cambav.
The Portuguese and Dutch had already
established factories here in 1618 when
the English appeared; it was still a
flourishing city, but commenced to
decline as Surat increased in import-
ance. In the 18th cent it was
plundered more than once by the
Marathas; at the same time the en-
trance to the harbour began to silt up,
and it has now become as unimportant
a city as it was formerly great
Csonbay was formerly a stronghold
of the Jains and still possesses some
of their MSS, second only to those at
Patan. The Jumma Mu^'id (1325),
was built with fragments of Jain and
Hindu Temples.
The town is celebrated for the manu-
&cture of agate, cornelian, and onyx
ornaments.]
292 m. Mehmadabad sta. i^ Pic^
turesque view of river from rly. sta.
In the morning and evening troops of
monkeys play about quite near the
titin. Mehmadabad was founded by
Mahmud Begada in 1479. There is a
tomb 1^ m. £. of the town, built in
1484 in honour of Mubarak Sajryad, a
minister of Mahmud. For simplicity
of plan, and solidity and balance of
parts, it stands almost first among
Indian mausoleums. Begada also con-
structed the Bhamuvra Btzoli well. It
bas two stone arches, on which it was
said the king's swing was hung. It is
74 ft long by 24 ft. broad, is entered
by four winding stairs, and has eight
underground chambers.
[K&a {Kheda\ 7 m. from Mehma-
dabad, by a good road shaded by fine
trees (pop. 29,000), is the largest town
in the district of that name. It consists
of two parts, the town proper and the
soborbe. Kaira is said to oe as old as
1400 B.C. Copper-plate grants show that
the city was m existence in the 5th cent.
There are now only five European dvil
officers resident there. The chief in-
dustry is printingcloth for saris and other
native garments. In the centre of the
town is the Court House, a building
with pillars of a Greek order. Near it
is a Jain Temple, with beautiful dark
wood carving. Outside the E. gate is the
new Jail. Outside the S. gate are the
Reading-room and Library and a Clock
Tower, built in 1868. It was once a
military cantonment, but proved so
unhealthy for Europeans that the troops
were withdrawn. The large church was
consecrated by Bishop Heber in 1822,
and has a beautiful bell. It is the
capital of a coUectorate of well- wooded
fertile country. Wild hog may still be
found in the district and the Nilgai
{Portax pictus\ antelope (Antilope
bezoartica), and Indian gazelle {Oazella
Bennettii)i are very common. The
Sarua is a tall and beautiful gray crane
with a crimson head. All these animals,
assisted by monkeys, do great damage
to the crops, but the cultivators protect
them from sportsmen. Wild-fowl, bus-
tard {Eupodotis Edwardsii), and florican
{8yj^ieotide$ aurUus)y partridges and
quails, sand-grouse, plovers and bitterns,
pea-fowl and green pigeon, are found
everywhere. The Mahsir (Barhus
Mosal)^ little inferior to the salmon, are
found in the Mahi, Vatrak, Meshwa, and
Sabarmati, and afford excellent sport
with the rod and fly. There are few
richer and more pleasing portions of
India than the Kaira coUectorate.]
It may well be asserted that the lines
of railway from Mehmadabad and Rut-
lam to' Delhi through northern Guzerat
and Rajputana, traverse a country more
crowded with beautiful buildings and
ruins than any in the known world.
310 m. AHMEDABAD,^ June. sta. 3^
This most beautiful city, covering an
area of 2 sq. m. (148,412 inhab.), stands
on the 1. bank of the Sabarmati river,
which skirts its W. wall. The remains of
an old wall, pierced by 12 gateways,
surround it
Ahmedabad, once the greatest city
in Western India, is said to have been
from 1578 to 1600 the '* handsomest
town in Hindustan, perhaps in the
1 No tonrist should pass the ancient capital
of the Saltans of Guzerat, the stronghold of
the northern Jains, without pausing at least
long enough (4 hrs.) to visit the Tombs qf the
Queens. I^e chief objects of interest marked
with an asterisk.
d by Google
112
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
world." In Sir Thomas Roe's time,
1616, we are told, **it was a goodly
city as large as London." It was
founded in 1411 by Sultan Ahmad I.,
who made Asaval, the old Hindu town
now included in the S. part of the city,
his capital. It passed through two
periods of greatness, two of decay,
and one of revival. From 1411 to 1511
it grew in size and wealth ; from 1512
to 1572 it declined with the decay of
the dynasty of Guzerat ; from 1572 to
1709 it renewed its greatness under the
Mogul emperors ; from 1709 to 1809 it
dwindled with their decline ; and from
1818 onwards it has again increased
under British rule.
The city is supplied with filtered water
obtained from wells sunk in the bed
of the river, nearly opposite Oonianpur,
The Cantonment lies 3) m. N.E. of
the city, and is reached by a good road
lined by an avenue of trees, the haunt of
thousands of parrots. Here there is an
English Church, and there is another,
Christ Church, in the Idaria Quarter^
600 yds. S. of the Delhi Gate.
It is hard to account for Ahmedabad
being so little known to modem travel-
lers from Europe. It certainly ranks
next to Delhi and Agra for the beauty
and extent of its architectural remains.
Its architecture is an interesting and
striking example of the combination
of Hindu ana Mohammedan forms.
** Nowhere did the inhabitants of Ah-
medabad show how essentially' they
were an architectural people as in their
utilitarian works (wells [Baoli8\ and in-
lets to water reservoirs). It was a ne-
cessity of their nature that every object
should be made ornamental, and their
success was as great in these as in their
mosques or palaces " (see Fergusson).
The Jaina feeding-plctces for MrdSf
which at the first glance look like
pigeon-houses, to be seen in many of
the streets, are a peculiar feature of
Ahmedabad: they are extremely pic-
turesque, ornamented with carving, and
otten gaily painted. Many of the houses
in the street have fronts beautifully
ornamented with wood-carving, which
is a speciality of the place (see below).
A traveller pressed for time, having
only one day at his disposal, might take
the buildings in the city in the follow-
ing order : —
The Jumma Musjid and Tombs of
Ahmad Shah and his wives ; the Rani
Sipari's Tomb and Mosque; Dastur
Khan's M6sque ; the Tin Darwazah ;
the Bhadr Azam Khan's palace ; Sidi
Sayyad's Mosque ; Ahmad Shah's
Mosque ; Shaikh Hasan's Mo8(^ue ; the
Rani (or Queen's) Mosque in Mirzapur;
Muhafiz Khan's Mosque.
With a second morning to s^re, he
should start early and see Sarkhej, across
the river to the S. W., giving himself cU
least four hours for the trip. A second
afternoon could be devoted to the Kan-
kariya Tank and Shah 'Alam, S. of the
dty, and perhaps the modem Jain Tem-
ple of Hatnising, outside the Delhi gate.
Near the rly. sta. are the handsome
lofty minarets and arched central gate-
way, which are all that remain of a
mosque^ (1) destroyed in the struggle
with the Marathas in 1753.
The Jnmma Husjid (3),* or prtn^
dpal mosque, stands near the centre of
the city, on the S. side of the main street
(Manik Chauk), a little E. of the Three
Gateways. It was built by Sultan
Ahmad I. (Ahmad Shah) in 1424. Mr.
Fergusson says : ** Though not remark-
able for its size, it is one of the most
beautiful mosques in the East." The
mosque is entered from the N. by a
flight of steps. On the S. is another
porch leading into the street, and on the
E. is the enclosure, in which is the tomb
of the founder. The courtis surrounded
by a cloister. To the W. is the mosque
proper. On the threshold of the main
arch, embedded in the pavement, lies a
black slab brought from Chintaman's
Temple, which, according to Mr. Hope,
is a Jain idol turned upside down for the
faithful to tread on ; and touching it on
the E. is a white marble crescent, where
the Imam stands to pray. In the right-
hand comer on entering is a gallerjr,
which was probably used for themembers
of the royal family. The roof, supported
by 260 columns, has 15 cupolas with
galleries round the three in front. The
centre cupola \a larger and much higher
than the others. The 2 minarets lost half
1 These numbers in brackets refer to the
numbers on the accompanying plan.
d by Google
0 faee p. 112.
tf^aikcr OfBoutail sc.
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ROUTE 6. AHMEDABAD
113
their height in th& earthquake of 16th
Jane 1819. They are now 43 ft. high.*
On a marble slao above the centre of
the three kiblahs or prayer-niches are
these words in Arabic : ' * This high and
far-stretching mosque was raised by the
slave who trusts in the mercy of Grod,
the compassionate, the alone to be wor-
shipped.^* The Koran says, "Truly
mosques belong to God, worship no one
else with Him. " * * The slave who trusts
in God, the Aider, Nasiru'd dunya va
din Abu'l Fath Ahmad Shah, son of Mu-
hammad Shah, son of Sultan Muzaffar. '*
Through the E. gate is the Tomb of
Alunad Sliali (2), (repaired 1587).
This domed building has a portico to
the S. with 18 pillars. The windows
are of perforated stonework. The
central chamber is 86 ft. square. It is
paved with marble of different colours.
The centre cenotaph is that of Ahmad
Shah, the one to the W. is that of his
son, Muhammad Shah, and that on the
E. is that of his grandson, Kutb Shah.
50 yds. to the E. across the street are
the Tombs of the queens of Ahmad
Shah (2). * The houses are so close that
they quite shut out the facade of the
mausoleum, which is raised on a plat-
form. In the facade are 13 highly
ornamented carved recesses. Inside is
a rectangular court, with a corridor
numing ronndit. In the centre are eight
large cenotaphs and several small ones.
The centre tombstone is of white
marble, finely carved, and is the tomb
of Moghlai Bibi. It is of black stone
or marble, inlaid with white. This
building is one of the finest in Ahmeda-
bad, but much out of repair.
Ban! Slpari's Mosque and Tomb (4) *
Me almost the most beautifiil monu-
loents in Ahmedabad. Rani Si^ari was
one of the wives of Mahmud Bigadah,
*Qd mother of Prince Ahmad. Her
HMJeque and tomb were completed in
1514. "They are the first oi a series
of buildings more delicately ornate than
any that preceded." ^ The mosque has
2 minarets, about 50 ft. high, having
^ In 1781 Mr. Forbes, in his Oriental
Mmofn, said of them : "A circular flight of
steps led to a gallery near the top of each.
A little force at the arch of th* upper gallt-ry
5*de both minarets shake, though the roof of
"» HKMque reroain^d unmoved.
^^opiefB ATmeddbad.
Vtfidia]
four compartments tapering up to the
top. The roof is supported by a row
of 6 couiJed pillars with single ones
behind. The roza, or tomb, is 36 ft. sq.
Dastur Khan's Mosque (5), built in
1486 by one of Mahmud Bigadah's
ministers. Remark the open stone
screen-work that shuts in the cloister
round the courtyard. In the gateway
the marks of shot may be seen. A few
yds. to the E. of Dastur Khan's Mosque
IS Asa BhiVs Moundy the site of the
fort of the Bhil chief, from whom the
town of Asaval had its name.
A little to the N.E. of the Jamalpur
Gate is Haibat Khan's Mosque (6),
which is interesting as one of the earliest
attempts to combine Mohammedan and
Hindu elements. Haibat Khan was
one of the noblemen of Ahmad Shah's
court. The mosque is very plain. The
front waU is pierced by three small
pointed arches some distance apart.
The minarets are small and without
ornament, and rise like chimneys from
the roof. The central dome, of Hindu
workmanship and of great beauty, is
barely raised above the others. The
pillars, taken from different temjles,
display every variety of rich ornament.
Except for the form of its dome, the
outer porch would suit a Hindu temple.
The Tin Darwazah, or Three Gate-
WKjs (7), built by Sultan Ahmad I.,
is of stone richly carved. It crosses
the main street a little to the N. of the
Jumma Musjid. The terrace on the
top of the gateway was formerly roofed
over, but was thrown open in 1877.
This gateway led into the outer court
of the Bhadr, known as the Royal
Square, and was surrounded, in 1638,
by two rows of palm trees and tamarinds
(J. A. de Mandelslo's Voyages, 1662, ^.
76). Facing the Bhadr Gate is a muni-
cipal garden. N. of the garden is the
High School, and to the W. the Hema-
bhai Institute, with a good library and
newspapers and periodicals. Near it is
the Mosque of Malik Sha'ban, with an
inscription that says it was built in the
reign of Kutb-ud-dm, by Sh'aban, son of
'Imadu'l mulk, in 856 a.h. = 1452 a.d.
The Bhadr (8), (pronounced Bhud-
der) an ancient enclosure or citadel,
built by Ahmad Shah,^1411, and named
Digitized by Google I
114
ftOITTB 6. BOMBAT TO DfiLHt
India
after the goddess Bhadra, a propitious
form of Kali, is occupied by public
offices. In the £. face is the Palace,
built by 'Azam Khan (9), the 23d
Viceroy (1635-42), who was called
Udai, "the white ant," from his love
of building. It is now the jaiL Over
the entrance is a Persian chronogram,
giving the date 1636 A.D. The N,
efrdrance to the Bhadr is very handsome.
The gate is 18 ft. high, under an arch-
way, opening into a regular octagonal
hail of great elegance, containing, in
the upper story, an arched gallery,
and having in front a low wall of
open-cut stone, each gallery surmounted
by a cupola. Underneath this hall is
a fine vaulted chamber, entered by a
flight of steps at each side, with a reser-
voir and fountain in the middle. Close
to the Jail is a temple to Bhadra Kali
Mata. At the N.E. comer is Sidl Say-
3rad'B Mosque (12),* which forms part
of the wall ; it is now the Mumlutdar's
office. Two of its windows are filled
with delicate stone traceiy of tree-
stems and branches beautifully wrought.
Mr. Fergusson, who gives an illustra-
tion of one of the windows, says in his
Hist, of Arch. : " It would be difficult
to excel the skill with which the vege-
table forms are conventionalised just
to the extent required for the purpose.
The equal spacing also of the subject
by the three ordinary trees and four
palms takes it out of the category of
direct imitation of nature, and renders
it sufficiently structural for its situa-
tion ; but perhaps the greatest skill is
shown in the even manner in which the
pattern is spread over the whole surface.
There are some exquisite specimens of
tracery in precious marbles at Agra and
Delhi, but none qtute eaual to this."
In the S.W. corner of the Bhadr is
Alunad Shah's Mosque (10), built by
him in 1414, 20 years before the Jumma
Musjid, being perhaps the oldest here.
It is said to have been used as the king's
private chapel. Left on advancing to-
wards the mosque, was once ttie Ou\ji-
Shaliid or store of Martyrs, where were
buried the Moslems killed in storm-
ing the town. The fa9ade is almost
bare of ornament, with ill-designed
pointed arches. Tlie two minarets are
evidently unfinished. The mvnibart or
pulpit, is adorned with what looks Uke
laurel leaves. The architecture shows
the first attempts at building a Moslem
edifice in what had been a Hindu city.
The pillars still bear Hindu figures and
emblems. The N. porch, leading into the
latticed ladies' gallery, is Hindu through-
out, and may be part of a temple.
W. of this mosque is the Muiik Bnij
(11) or Ruby Bastion, built round the
foundation-stone of the city. There is a
small round tomb in the yard near the
collector's office, which is said to be that
of Ibrahim Euli Khan, a Persian warrior.
Shah Wajihu-din's Tomb (13). baUt
by Saiyad Murtaza Khan Bokhari, 11th
Viceroy, 1606-1609, is a very beautiful
monument.
Bayyad 'Alam's Mosque (14), built
about 1420 by Abubakr HusainL The
inner details are as rich as Hindu art
could make them. S. of this 170
yds. is
The Bani Musjid (Queen's Mosque)
(15) in Mirzajmr^ a few yds. to the S.
of the D.B., built probably in Sultan
Ahmad I.'s reign. There are two
minarets, unfinished or partly destroyed
by an earthquake, and now only 33 ft
high. The roof has three domes,, and
is supported by 36 plain pillars. To
the N.E. of the mosque is the roza or
tomb (restored). Under the dome are
two cenotaphs of white marble ; the
central one is the tomb of Rupavati, a
princess of Dhar. It is in good preserva-
tion, while that on the W. side is
much injured ; both are ornamented
with the chain and censer, a Hindu
device. Mr. Fergusson has given a
plan of this mosque, and says, *'The
lower part of the minaret is of pure
Hindu architecture. We can follow
the progress of the development of this
form from the first rude attempt in the
Jumma Musjid, through all its stages
to the exquisite patterns of the Queen's
Mosque at Mirzapur."
The Mosque of Sbaik Hasan Mu-
hammad CUshti in ShaApur (16) is in
the N.W. angle of the city, not far from
the Sabarmati, 1665 a.d. The minarets
are unfinished. ''The tracery in the
niches of their bases is perhaps superior
to any other in the city." On the S. or
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ROUTB 6. ENVIRONS OF AHME0ABA1)
115
left side of tlie central arch is a Persian
quatrain. This chronogram gives the
date 1566 a.d.
N. of the city is the Mosque of
Huhafiz Khan (17), which is 350 yds.
to the £. of the D.B., and was hnilt in
1465 hy Jamal-nd-din Muhafiz Khan,
governor of the city in 1471 under
Mahmud. Begadah. It is the best pre-
served of all the mosques ; and Hope
says, "its details are exquisite," and
he considers that the minarets of this
mosque and those of Rani Sipari ''sur-
pass those of Cairo in beauty." ^
S. of this mosque is the modem Swami
Narayan's Temple (18), finishedin 1850.
It has an octagonal dome, supported on
12 pillars, and is a fine builcung.
Close to it is the Panjrapol or Asylum
for AnirnaZs, The enclosure is sur-
rounded by sheds where about 800
animals are lodged. There is also a
room where insects are fed. Close to
the S. of it are nine tombs, each 18 ft.
3 in. long, called the Nau Oaz Firs,
"the Nine Yard Saints." They are
most likely the tombs of a number of
men killed in some battle.
The Mosque, Tomb, and College of
Shuja'at Khan.— This mosque has two
slender minarets and is divided by
piers into five bays, and over the kiblah
are written the creed and date =1695.
The walls, up to 6 ft., are lined with
marble. The tomb is of brick, with a
marble floor, much destroyed. It is called
both the Marble and the Ivoiy Mosque.
Ahmedabad is celebrated for its
Handicraftsmen — goldsmiths, j ewel-
lers, etc., who carry the cJiopped form
of jewellery (the finest archaic jewellery
in India) to the highest perfection ;
copper and brass-workers, as instanced
particularly in the very graceful and
delicate brass screens and pandans
(spice -boxes) ; carpenters, who have
long^ been famous for their superior
carving in shisham, or mongrel black-
wood, of which the finest specimens
are to be found here ; stone-masons,
lacquer -worjkers, carvers in ivory, —
also for the manufacture of ** Bombay
boxes " ; mock ornaments for idols ;
leather shields ; cotton cloth (4 monster
tteam-factories) ; calico-printing, gold-
steam-factories) : calico-printing, gold-
figured silks, and gold and silver tissues ;
kincobSf or brocades (the noblest pro-
duced in India) ; gold and silver lace
and thread, and aS manner of tinsel
ornaments.
Its industrial importance is shown by
the fact that "the Nagar-Seth, or city
lord, of Ahmedabad is the titular head
of all the Guilds and the highest person-
age in the citv, and is treated as its
representative Dy the Government." ^
Carpets have also become a speciality
of Ahmedabad, and the manufactories,
as well as the workshops of the other
crafts are well worth visiting.
Environs.— For 12 m. round Ahme-
dabad the country is full of interesting
ruins ; but here only the principal can
be mentioned. Just outside the Delhi
Gate, rt. of the road, is the Hathi Sing's
Temple (19),* a modem building, sur-
mounted by 53 pagoda domes. This
and a rest-house and family mansion
close by were finished in 1848, at a cost
of 1,000,000 rs. The dimensions or
this temple are of the first order ; its
style the pure Jain ; and it stands a
convincing proof that the native archi
tecture has not been extinguished by
centuries of repression. In its sculp-
tures may be seen representations oi
the 24 holy men, or Tirthankars, and
hundreds of other images, all similar,
but each labelled on the base with the
emblem of some distinct Jain. The
entrance is from a courtyard surrounded
by a corridor, where woollen slippers
are provided, before ascending a portico
richly carved and supported by pillars.
The Temple consists of an outer and an
inner chamber, both paved with coloured
marbles chiefly from Makran in Rajpu-
tana: in the latter istheimageof Dharm-
nath, who is represented as a beautiful
youth, with a sparkling tiara of imitation
diamonds. Mr. Fergusson says: "Each
part increases in dignity to the sanctu-
ary. The exterior expresses the interior
more completely than even a Gothic
design, and, whether looked at from its
courts or from the outside, it possesses
variety without confusion, and an ap-
propriateness of every part to the pur-
1 See also Burgess, ArcMteoture Of
Ahmadabad.
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116
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
Ind/ia
pose intended.'* N.W. of this is the
ruined Tomb of Daxya Khan (20),
1453, minister of Mahmud Shah Begada.
The dome is 9 ft. thick, and the largest
in Guzerat. Not far beyond it is the
Chota or small Shahi Bagh, of no
architectural interest, now a private
house, where it is said the ladies of the
royal harem lived. Across the railway
line is the Shahi Bagh, a very fine
garden-house, now the residence of the
Commissioner of the Division. A sub-
terranean passage is said to communicate
between the two places. The building
was erected in 1622 by Shah Jehan,
when Viceroy of Ahmedabad, to give
work to the poor during a season of
scarcity. In the 16th century this was
the great resort for the people of the
city. The Shahi Bagh is close to the
railway bridge over the Sabarmati,
which river it overlooks. Half a m.
S. W. of the Shahi Bagh is Miyan Khan
Chisti's Mosqne (22), built in 1465 by
Malik Maksud Yazir ; and } m. more to
the S.W. is Achat Bibi's Mosqne (21),
built in 1469, by *Imadu*l mulk, one of
Begada's ministers, for his wife Bibi
Achut Kuki, whose tomb is close by.
There were seven minarets here, all of
which were thrown down in the earth-
quake of 1819. Returning from this
point, the traveller may drive to the
N.E. side of the city, to Asarva, which
is about J m. N.E. of the Daryapur
Gate, where are the Wells of Dada Hari
(23)* and Mata Bhawani. The real
name of Dada is said by the local people
to have been Halim, " mild," and they
call him Dada Hari. He is said to have
been the husband of the Dai, or Nurse
of one of the Kings. There is an ascent
from the road to the platform which
surrounds the well's mouth. A domed
portico, supported by 12 pillars, gives
entrance to 3 tiers of finely constructed
galleries below ground, which lead to the
octagonal well, and inscriptions in
Sanscrit and Arabic The well beyond
the octagonal one has pillars round it,
and a fence wall. Beyond this is a
circular well for irrigation. A very
narrow staircase leads to the level
ground, where by the side of the well
are two stone mandaps. About 50 yds.
to the W. is Dada Hari^s Mosque, one
of the best decorated buildings at
Ahmedabad, though no marble is em-
ployed. The stone is of a dull reddish-
gray colour. The bases of the two
minarets are richly carved. A portion
of them was thrown down by the earth-
quake of 1819. To the N. is the Rom
of Dada Hari or Halim, The N. door
is exquisitely carved, but the inside is
quite plain.
Hata BhawaJtti (24).— This we41 is
about 100 yds. N. of Dada Hari's, but
is much older, and is thought to be of
the time of Karan, when Ahmedabad
was called Karanavati. The descent
to the water from the platform is by
52 steps and pillared galleries as at
Dada Hari. The porticoes are qnite
plain, and the well is altogether inferior
to that of Dada Hari.
Most of the houses in the Madhavpura
suburb are warehouses, and it is the
great business quarter. Saraspur is a
distinct walled town, the largest of the
suburbs. It is E. of the rly. station.
In this suburb is the Jain Temple of
Chintaman (25), restored in 1868 by
Shantidas, a rich merchant, at a cost
of 900,000 rs. Aurangzib defiled it by
having a cow's throat cut in it^ and,
breaking the images, changed it into a
mosque. The Jains petitioned the Em-
peror Shah Jehan, who ordered his son
to repair and restore the temple. But
in 1666 Thevenot speaks of it as a
mosque ( VoyageSy v. p. 28).
J m. S.E. of the Raipur Gate is
the Hauz-i-Kutb, generally called the
Kankariya Lake (26), or Pebble Lake.
This reservoir, one of the largest of
its kind in this part of India, is a
regular polygon of 34 sides, each side
190 ft. long, the whole being more than
1 m. round. The area is 72 acres. It
was constructed by Sultan Kutb-ud-din
in 1451, and was then surrounded by
many tiers of cut-stone steps, with six
sloping approaches, flanked by cupolas
and an exquisitely carved water-sluice.
In the centre was an island, with a gar-
den called Nagina or the Gem, and a
pavilion called Ghattamandal. In 1872
Mr. Borrodaile, the collector, repaired
the building, and made a road to the
Rajpur Gate. On the E. bank of the
lake are some Dutch and Armenian
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ROUTE 6. ENVIRONS OF AHMEDABAD
117
tombs, Saracenic in style, with domes
uid pillars. They are a good deal
rained. The dates range from 1641 to
1689.
Sarkhej is 6 m. to the S.W. of the
Jamalpore Gate, whence a dumnif or
covered cart on springs, with a good
horse, will take two people comfortably
in an hour. The start must be made
ia the early morning. The road crosses
the Sabimnati river, the channel of
which is about ^ m. broad, but the water
in the dry weather is little more than
2 ft deep. The river-bed during the
day \B one of the most interesting sights
in Ahmedabad. The sand is dotted
with enclosures for the cultivation of
mdons, potatoes, and other vegetables,
and the running water is lined with
gailv- dressed women washing their
clothes. Garments of every shape and
of the brightest colours are laid out to
dry. These persons are not profes-
sional washerwomen, but belong to
manv classes of society. The remains
of a bridge will be seen near the cross-
ing; both it and the railway bridge
were carried away by the great flood in
1875, but tiie latter was at once restored.
Near the bridge the city wall is from
iO to 60 ft high. The road from the
river's bank is good, with rich fields
on either side, and at !{ m. rt. is the
massive brick
Mausoleum of 'Aiam and Mozam,
bnilt probably in 1457. These brothers
are said to have been the architects of
Sarkhej, and to have come from Ehor-
asan. The immense structure which
contains their tombs is raised on a
platform. About 800 yds. from the
principal buildings at Sarkhej there
are two brick towers about 30 ft. high,
the bases of which, close to the ground,
have been so dug awav that it seems a
miracle they do not fall. After another
200 yds., the road passes under two
arches, leading into the courtyard of
Sarkhej. To the left on entering is
the fine mausoleum of Mahmud Big^ah
and his sons, and connected with it
by a beautiful portico another equally
magnificent tomb on the border of the
tank for his queen B&jabai. To the rt
is the Tomb of the Saint Shaik Ahmc^
KhaUu Qwnj BakJuh, called also Magh-
rabi. Ganj Bakhsh lived at Anhalwada,
and was the spuitual guide of Sultan
Ahmad I., and a renowned Moham-
medan saint; he retired to Sarkhej,
and died there in 1445 at the age of 111.
This magnificent tomb and mosque
were erected to his memorv. The tomb
is the largest of its kind in Guzerat,
and has a great central dome and many
smaller ones. Over the central door of
the tomb is a Persian auatrain. It gives
the date 1473 A. D. The shrine inside is
octagonal, surrounded by finely- worked
brass lattice-windows. The pavement
is of coloured marbles, and the dome
inside richly gilt, — from it hangs a
long silver chain which once reached
to the ground. The vast ac^oining
Mosque is the perfection of elegant sim-
plicity: it has 10 cupolas supported
on 18 pillars. The whole of these
buildings, says Mr. Fergusson, '*are
constructed without a single arch ; all
the pillars have the usual bracket
capitals of the EEindus, and all the
domes are on the horizontal principle."
S. of the saint's tomb is that of his
disciple Shaik Salahu-din.
Mahmud Begurra excavated the great
tank of 17i acres, surrounded it by
flights of stone steps, constructed a
richly -decorated supply -sluice, and
built at its S.W. comer a splendid
palace and harem (now in ruins).
With the lake, the Sarkhej buildings
form the most beautiful group in Ahme-
dabad. They belong to the best period
of the style, and have the special in-
terest of being almost purely Hindu,
with only the faintest trace of the
Mohammedan style. Numbers of
people bathe in the tank in spite of the
alligators. A little S. of the lake is
the tomb of Baba Ali Sher, a saint even
more venerated than Ganj Bakhsh. It
is small, ugly, and whitewashed. Close
by are the remains of Mirza Ehan
^anan*s Garden of Victory, laid out
in 1584 after his defeat of Muzafiar
III., the last Ahmedabad king. In
the 17th century Sarkhej was so famous
for indigo, that in 1620 the Dutch
established a faotorv there.
From Ahmedabaa another expedition
may be made to Batwa, which is almost
5 m. due S. of the Bajpur Gate. Here
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118
BOUTB 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
Burhanu-din Eutbu '1-Alam, the grand-
son of a famous saint buried at Uch on
theSutlej, is interred. He came to the
court of Sultan Ahmad I., settled at
Batwa, and died there in 1452. A
vast mausoleum of fine design and
proportions was erected to his memory.
It resembles the buildings at Sarkhej,
but the aisles are arched and vaulted,
and the dome is raised by a second
tier of arches. The workmanship is
most elaborate, but the building is
unfortunately much out of repair.
Adjoining it are a mosque and tank.
The tomb of Shah Alam is 2 m.
S.E. of the town on the Batwa road.
Before reaching the tomb the road
passes under two plain ^teways, and
then through one, with a Nakar Khana
(music gallery) above the archway, and
so into a vast court. To the W. is the
mosque, which has two minarets of
seven stories, handsomely carved and
about 90 ft. high. The tomb of Shah
'Alam, who was the son of the saint
buried at Batwa, is to the E., and is
protected by metal lattices : he was the
spiritual guide of Mahmud Begadah, and
died in 1495. To the S. is an assembly
hall built by Muzaffar III. (1561-72),
and partly destroyed by the British in
1780 to furnish materials for the siege
of the city. The tomb is said to have
been built by Taj Khan Nariali, one of
Mahmud's courtiers. Early in the 17th
century Asaf Khan, brother of the
Empress Nur Jehan, adorned the dome
with gold and precious stones. The
floor of the tomb is inlaid with black
and white marble, the doors are of open
brass work, and the frame in which
they are set, as well as what shows be-
tween the door-frame and the two stone
pillars to the .right and left is of pure
white marble beautifully carved and
pierced. The tomb itself is enclosed
by an inner wall of pierced stone. The
outer wall in the.N. is of stone trellis-
work of the most varied design, and
here Shaik Kabir, renowned for his
learning, who died in 1618, is buried.
The mosque was built by Muhammad
Salih Badakbshi. The minarets were
begun by Nizabat Khan, and finished
by Saif Khan. They were much
damaged by the earthquake of 1819,
but have been repaired, and are now
in good order. To the S. of the mosque
is a tomb like that of the cMef
mausoleum where the family of Shah
'Alam are buried. Outside the wall
to the W. is a reservoir, built by the
wife of Taj Khan Nariali.
Another day may be spent in visiting
the Monastery of Piraruiy which is at
the village of Giramtha, 9 m. S. of
Ahmedabad. The mausoleums are
those of Imam Shah, Nurshah, Surab-
hai, Bala Muhammad, and Bakir *A1L
The legend is that Imam Shah came
from Persia in 1449, and performed
certain miracles, which induced Mu-
hammad II. to give him his daughter
in marriage. On the anniversary of
Imam Shah's death a fair is held,
attended by many Hindus.
There are many other interesting
ruins near Ahmedabad, but these are
the principal, and to see all would take
months.
Leaving Ahmedabad, the railway
crosses the Sabarmati river quite close
to the Shah-i-bagh on a fine bridge,
which carries the rails for both gauges
and a footway on one side.
At 314 m. Sabarmati junc sta. the
narrow gauge continues N. to Delhi,
whilst the broad gauge turns W. for
Wadhwan and Kattywar (Rte. 7).
The new Jail here is one of the largest
in the Presidency.
The country going N. is flat and
well cultivated. The beautiful and
celebrated well at Adalaj is in this
direction, but can perhaps be more
easily visited by road.
350 m. Hehsana junc. sta. This
is one of the most important railway
centres in Guzerat, as it is the junction
for three branch lines constructed by
the Gaekwar of Baroda. They are:
(1) a line passing through Visna^^ar,
Vadnagar, and Kheralo, total distance
27 m., general direction N.E. ; (2)
a line to Patan, the historic capital of
Guzerat, distance 24 m. N.W. ; (8)
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ROUTE 6. ENVIRONS OF AHMEDABAD
119
a line to "nramgam, 40 m. S.W.,
made to connect the Rajputana and
Eattywar metre-gauge lines of railway.
(For Yiramgam see p. 162.)
On these branch lines two places
only Deed be noticed here.
[Vadnairur, 21 m. N.E. (pop.
15,941). This place, once very import-
ant, is stated to have been conquered
by a Rajput prince from Ayodhya in
145 A.B. It probably occupies the
site of Anandpura, known in local
history since 226 a.d. There are some
interesting ruins, and the Temple of
Hatkeshvar Mcbhixdeo is worth a visit.
It is now the religious capital of the
Nagar Brahmans, a most influential
class of men in Guzerat and Kattywar.
It was long the chartered refuge of the
Dhinoj Brahmans, a class of robbers
who were protected and taxed by suc-
cessive native governments down to
quite a recent date.
Patau, 24 m. N.W. of Mehsana
(pop. 32,646). The city stands on the
site of the ancient Anhilvada, capital
of the Hindu kings of Guzerat : it was
taken by Mahmud of Ghazni on his
way to attack the temple of Somnath
in 1024 A.D. The site for generations
has been a quarrv whence beautiful
carved stones haveWn carried to other
places. It is still famous for its
libraries of Jain MSS. There are no
less than 108 Jain temples here.]
Kadi the N. division of Baroda in
which Sidhpur is situated is the only
part of the whole of the Bombay Presi-
dency in which Poppies are allowed to
be grown. The opium is manufactured
in Sidhpur at the State Stores,
866 m. IJnjha sta. A town in the
Baroda territory of 11,287 inhab. and
headquarters of the Kadwakanbis,
a peculiar caste of agriculturists.
Marriages among them take place but
once in 11 years, when every girl over
40 days old must be married on one or
other of the days fixed. Should no
husband be found, a proxy bridegroom
is sometimes set up and married to a
number of girls who immediately enter
a state of nominal widowhood until an
eligible suitor presents himself, when
a second marriage takes place.
374 m. Sidhpur sta. (pop. 16,224).
It stands on the steep nortnem bank
of the Sarasvati river, and the scene in
the bed of the river during the day in
the dry weather is specially gay. The
place is of extreme antiquity, and con-
tains the ruins of Rvdra Mala^ one of
the most famous ancient temples in W.
India. It was wrecked by Ala-ud-din
Khilji in 1297 ; and much of it has been
carried off since for building purposes.
The stones are gigantic, and the carving
superb, but very little of it remains.
A row of small temples is converted into
a mosque. The more modem temples
are very numerous.
393 m. Palanpnr sta. (R.), D.B.
The chief town of a native state of that
name, the residence of a Political Agent.
[Rly. N.W. to the military station of
Deesa on the K Banas 18 m. dis-
tant.]
425 m. Abu Boadsta.3^ (R.), D.B.
This is a well-built, attractive-looking
place. Mount Abu looking down on it
from the N.W.
[The excursion to Mount Abu is
one of the most interesting in India,
more especially on account of the Jain
temples. The ascent to it, 16^ m., is
by a very good road, fit for light-
wheeled traffic for about 5 or 6 m.,
through delightful scenery, with fine
views across a wide valley towards Achil-
ghar. Thence by pony or rickshaw
(about 4 J hrs.) to the top of the mount.
Although regarded as part of the Ara-
valli range, Abu is completely detached
from that chain by a valley about 15 m.
wide. The plateau at the top is about
14 m. by 4 m., and varies m height
from 4000 to 5600 ft.*
1 The traveller should arrange to arrive at
Abu Road sta. by a morning train, when
he will have time to arrange for the trip up
to Mount Abu in the evening (having pre-
viously written or telegraphed to secure rooms
there at the small hotel), allowing himself
about 6 hours' daylight for the journey. The
temples can be seen before noon the following
day, tlie light luggage started downhill before
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120
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
Mount ABUsOc is the headquarters of
the Rajputana administration, and the
residence of vakils or agents from a
large number of native states. It is also
a sanitarium for European troops and
favourite hot -weather resort m the
summer season.
The height of the civil and military
station is 4000 ft. ; the highest point is
in the northern end.
At the Headquarters are the Resi-
dency, Churchy Lawreivce Asylwm Schools
for children of soldiers, Barracks^ Club,
Bazaar of native shops, a considerable
number of private houses on the margin
of the Gem Lake^ a most charming piece
of artificial water studded with islands,
and overhung by a curious rock that
looks like a gigantic toad about to
spring into the water. The Railway
Schools for children are outside the
station on the plateau. The surface of
Mount Abu is very much broken up, so
that the carriage roads are very few,
but there are plenty of bridle-roads and
picturesque footpaths.
The Dilwaxra Temples, the great
attraction of Mt. Abu, are reached by a
good bridle-path (2m.) A pass to visit
them is necessary.
When Europeans first settled at Abu
the temples were unguarded and open
to all comers, and were frequently mis-
used by the lower classes of all races.
They owe their improved condition to
the exertions of educated European
officers, a fact the custodians sometimes
forget in their conduct towards visitors.
In spite of ill usage and some very bad
restoration, the Dilwan-a temples are
very beautiful, and find a fitting frame-
work in their nest of mango trees, with
green fields of barley waving at their
feet, and surrounded on all sides by the
everlasting hills.
"The more modem of the two
temples was built by the same brothers,
Tejahpala and YastupaJa, who erected
the triple temple at Gimar. This one, we
learn from inscriptions, was erected
between 1197 and 1247, and for minute
delicacy of carving and beauty of detail
stands almost unrivalled, even in the
breakfast, the visitor following in the after-
^,V°/'"^®. ^ ,1***^^ **»e evening train. It
will he found cold at Abu in winter,
land of patient and lavish labour. It
is said to have taken 14 years to build,
and to have cost 18,000,000 rs. besides
56 lakhs spent in levelling the hill on
which it stands.
**The other, built by another mer-
chant prince, Vimala Sah, apparently
about 1032 A.D., is simpler and bolder,
though still as elaborate as good taste
woula allow in any purely ardiitectural
object. Being one of the oldest as well
as one of the most complete examples
known of a Jain temple, its peculiar-
ities form a convenient introduction to
the style, and serve to illustrate how
complete and perfect it had already
become when we first meet with it in
India.
"The principal object here, as else-
where, is a cell lighted only from the
door, containing a cross-legged seated
figure of the saint to whom the temple
is dedicated, in this instance Pars-
wanatha. The cell terminates upwards
in a sikra, or pyramidal spire-like roof,
which is common to all Hindu and
Jain temples of the age in the north
of India. To this is attached a jwrtico
composed of 48 free-standing pillars ;
and the whole is enclosed in an oblong
courtyard, about 140 ft. by 90 ft, sur-
rounded by a double colonnade of
smaller pillars, forming porticoes to a
ran^ or 55 cells, which enclose it on
all sides, exactly as they do in Buddhist
viharas. In this case, however, each
cell, instead of being the residence of a
monk, is occupied by one of those cross-
legged images which belong alike to
Buddhism and Jainism. Here they
are, according to the Jain practice, all
repetitions of the same image of Pars-
wanatha, and over the door of each
coll, or on its jambs, are sculptured
scenes from his life. The long beams,
stretching from pillar to pillar, sup-
porting the roof, are relieved by curious
angular struts of white marble, spring-
ing from the middle of the pillar up to
the middle of the beam " (Fergusson).
Aohilghar is reached by following
the bridle-path past Dilwarra for about
4 m., when the village of Uria is reached,
where there is a bungalow. From this
turn r. along a bad track for another
1 m. to the first temple. It is sur-
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ROUTE 6. EXCURSION TO JODHPUR
121
rounded by a wall, approached by a
flight of steps, and beautifully orna-
mented. S.K of this are other temples
on higher ground overlooking the
valley. The view is magnificent. These
are the buildings the traveller has seen
in ascending the hill. S. of the first
temple is the Agni Kund^ a tank famous
in Hindu mythology. On the bank is
a marble image of Pramar with his
bow, and near him three large stone
buffaloes. This figure is superior in
style and treatment to most ; and the
same may be said of the statues in
other temples around the Hill of Abu,
specially of the brass figure at Gaumukh
alluded to below. The Achilghar group
is peiiiaps as attractive as the more
renowned temples at Dilwarra, though
not comparable in size or finish ; but
the absence of modern work, and an
air of antiquity, solidity, and repose,
make them worthy of all admiration.
Around Mount Abu in the plain and
on the hillside are many temples, some
very beautiful, and all in charming
spots ; but the traveller who wishes to
visit them must have plenty of leisure
and be a good walker, and must always
be accompanied by a guide. It is
very dangerous to leave a beaten path
on the sides of Abu without a person
who knows the country intimately.
Gaumukh, a beautifully situated
temple 500 ft. down the S.E slope, and
3 m. from the church. Observe the
brass figure facing the temple.
Rishi KrisJiTia, at the foot of the hill,
S.E. side, 14 m. from the Civil Station,
is easily visited from Abu Road rail-
way station.
Gautama, on S. side of the hill, W.
of Gaumukh ; 5 m. from station.
Lovely view.
Devaiigan, in the plain, S.W., 2 m.
S. of Anadra, B.D.]
528 m. Marwar Railway junc. sta.
[Ezcursion to Jodhpur.
From this point the Jodhpur- Bikanir
Railway branches £. to 44 m. Zt^nt junc.
sta. (from which » line diverges W. to
the salt-works at Pachhadra, distant
60 m. , and continues in N. direction).
Many miles before reaching Jodhpur
the fort can be distinguished rising
abruptly out of the bare plain.
64 m. JODHPUR sta., D.B. the capi-
tal of the Rajput state of that name, and
of the country known as Marwar Oarea,
is the residence of the Chief and of a
Political Agent, to whom it is necessary
to bring an introduction asking for
permission to see the place.
The State of Jodhpur or Marwar
covers an area of 37,000 sq. m. with a
pop. of 1,760,500. The CUy was built
by Rao Jodha in 1459, and from that
time has been the seat of government.
It stands on the S. extremity of a
rocky range of sandstone hills lim-
ning E. and W., and is surrounded by
a strong wall nearly 6 m. in extent,
with seven gates, each bearing the
name of the town to which it leads.
Some of the houses and temples in the
city are of stone richly carved. Amongst
the most important buildings are the
Temple in tne Dhan Mundi (wheat
market) and the Talati Mai, an old
palace now used as the Darbar High
School.
The Fort stands up boldly some 300
ft. above the city and the plain, and
presents a magnificent appearance. The
rock is on every side scarped, but
esnecially at the N. end, where the
palace is built on the edge of a per-
pendicular cliif at least 120 ft. high.
Strong walls and numerous round and
square towers encircle the crest of the
hill. A modem engineered road winds
up the neighbouring slopes to a massive
gateway. Here is the first of 7 barriers
thrown across the zigzag ascent, having
immense portals with separate guards
in each. On the wall of the last are
represented the hands of the 15 wives
of one of the rajas who underwent
saii at his death.
At the top of the rock are the highly-
interesting Old Palaces, There are
courtyards within courtyards, all solidly
built and surrounded by lattice windows
of the most delicate and beautiful
designs. Here in the Treasury are the
Maharaja's jewels, a wonderful collec-
tion, and well worth seeing. Sonje of
the pearls, emeralds, and diamonds are
unusually fine. The silver trappings
for elephants and horses should also
Digitized by VjOOQIC
122
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
be noticed. The view from the palace
windows is most interesting and exten-
sive, and shows the town nestling
under the huge rock.
There was formerly great scarcity of
water, and the women had daily to
walk all le way to Mandor (see below)
to fetch it, but now it has been brought
up to the top of the Fort in pipes. The
principal Tanks are—
The Fadcmi Savior Tank, in the
N.W. part of the city, excavated out
of the rock, but of small size. In
the same quarter is the Hani Satigar,
at the foot of the W. entrance into the
Fort, with which it is connected by
outworks, and is chiefly reserved for
the garrison and ladies residing in the
Fort The Oulab Saugar, to the E.,
is handsomely built of stone, and is
capacious, witn a smaller one adjoining
it. The Baiji ka TcUao, S. of the city,
is extensive, but not capable of holding
water long. The modem Sardar Saugar^
on N.E. 1 m. W. is a lake called Ak-
herajji ka Talao^ which is a fine sheet
of water, clear, deep, and extensive, re-
sembling rather a natural lake than an
artificial tank. 8 m. K. of the city is
the Bal'Samandf a pretty tank, with a
palace on the embankment and garden
below, used by the Maharaja as a
summer residence. The Oanal from
it to the city is a work of much im-
portance.
The chief Sport near Jodhpur is pig-
sticking^ the pigs being preserved by
the Maharaja.
A great religious fair is held here in
March.
S.E. of the city are the Baikabag
Palace, where the late chief resided,
and the Jubilee Buildings or public
offices near it, designed b^ Col. Jacob.
In the native style, with elaborate
detail, they are extensive and beautiful,
and deserve attention.
The Palace of the present chief is
further S.
The Public Gairdens, and fine stone
houses of the officials, have now re-
placed the barren tract that formerly
touched the city walls on the S. side.
These, and many other improvements,
are due to the Prime Minister, Sir
Partob Sing, G.C.S.I.
At about i m. outside the N.K an^e
of the city is a suburb of 800 houses,
called the Maha Mandlr, or *'sreat
temple." The roof of the temple is
supported by 100 pillars, and the in-
terior is richly decorated. This suburb
is defended by a stone wall, with a few
weak bastions. In it are two palaces,
in one of which the spiritual adviser of
the late Maharaja lives. The other
is reserved for the spirit of his prede-
cessor, whose bed is laid out in a state
chamber, with a golden canopy over
the pillow ; and has no living occupant
The priests, called NatJis, have lost
nearly all their former prestige.
Majidor. — This was the capital of
Marwar before the foundation of Jodh-
pur. It is situated about 8 m. to the
N. of Jodhpur. Here are the CfhaUris,
or cenotaphs (much neglected), of the
former rulers, erected on the spots
where the funeral pyres consumed their
remains. Some are fine massive build-
ings,— that dedicated to AjU Sing, d.
1724, being the largest and finest.
These * * proud monuments, " as Tod calls
them,^ are built of *'a close-grained
freestone of a dark brown or tm tint,
with sufficient hardness to allow the
sculptor to indulge his fancy. The
style of architec^re here is mixed,
partaking both of the Shivite and the
Buddhis^ but the details are decidedly
Jain, more especially the columns.
Across a little stream not many yards
from here is a pantheon called the Serine
of the 300 million gods, containing a
row of gigantic painted figures of divini-
ties and heroes. At the end of the
long building where these figures are
arranged is a curious fresco of a sea-
piec3. Near this is the stone palace of
AbhaySing, who succeeded Ajit Sing in
1724. It is now quite deserted and
given over to the bats. There are some
fine bits of trellis screen-work in the
garden.]
128 m. Merta Bd. junc for Bikanir.
Merta, a fortified Marwar town of some
importance, is some miles from the
railway. Near this town was fought
a decisive battle between the Maratbas
and Rajputs, in which the former, witk
the treacherous assistance of a laige
1 For full detaUs see Ck>l. Tod's JU^jasUuxmk
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Ml
ROUTE 6. AJMERB
123
body of Pindharis under Amir Khan,
iumcted a crushing defeat upon the
latter.
[Excnrsion to Bikanir.
35 m. Nagaur. A fortified town of
importance in Marwar. The crenel-
lated wall, houses, and groups of
temples make an agreeable break in
the monotonous rolling desert.
103 m. Bikanir, the capital of the
state of that name. The ruling chief
is descended from a branch of the
royal house of Jodhpur. The state has
an area of upwards of 20,000 sq. m.,
and a pop. of about 400,000. The
principal part of the state is desert,
and the great depth (150 ft. to 300 ft.)
at which water is found renders culti-
vation or irrigation impossible. The
chief wealth of the people is their flocks
and herds, which feed on the bushes and
scanty herbage. The Maharaja's palace
at Bikanir itself is picturesque and
imposiDg, viewed from a distance. But
like most Hindu palaces, its interior
is a mass of small irregular suites of
rooms, due to the superstitious custom
which forbids a chief to live in the
apartments of his predecessor. ** Pal-
atial" loses its force as an adjective,
applied to native Indian interiors.
Some of the rooms in the palace are
lined with willow-pattern plates and
tiles set in the walls. The town is
surrounded by a wall, and contains a
few houses with handsome fronts of
carved stonework, belonging to wealthy
Jain merchants. A political agent
resides here, and his garden, green with
grass and bright with flowers, is a veri-
talde oasis in the desert, which beats
with its sandy waves impotently on
the Burrounding wall. One of the
dcepweUs should be seen and its depth
viewed by a beam of light reflected
tnm a mirror.]
216 m. Sambhar stat
Sawbha/r Lake is situated on the
bcfder of the Jeypore and Jodhpur
states. The surrounding country is
aaid and sterile, being composed of
rod(8 abounding in salt, and belonging
to the Permian system ; and the salt
of the lake comes from the washing of
these rocks. The bottom is tenacious
black mud resting on loose sand. The
lake is 21 m. long from E. to W. after
the rains, and the average breadth at
that time is 5 m. from N. to S., and
the depth, 1 m. from the shore, is only
2J ft. The water dries up from October
to June, and leaves about an inch of
salt in the enclosures, which are con-
structed only where the black mud is
of considerable thickness.
From the 17th century the salt was
worked by the Jeypore and Jodhpur
Governments conjointly till 1870, when
the British Government became lessees
of both states. The works are on the
£. and N. edges of the lake. The
average yearly out-turn is from 300,000
to 400,000 tons of salt, and the cost
of storage and extraction is fd. for every
82f lbs. When the salt is formed
men and women of the Barrar caste
wade through the mud and lift it in
large cakes into baskets.
221 m. Phalera stat N. juno. of
R.M. and J.B. railways.
Proceeding from Marwar junc. (p. 121)
towards Ajmere, after leaving, 561 m.,
Haripnr sta., D.B., the line engages in
a rocky ascent which continues to close
to 582 m., Beawar sta., D.B., an im-
portant town, and reaches
615 m. AJMTtRB junc. sta., if. D.B.
[From this place a line runs S. to N%s-
seerabady Neemuch, Butlam^ Tndore,
MhoWf and Khandwa (see Kte. 4).]
Ajmere, the key to Rajputana (pop.
67,800), is the capital of an isolated
British district in the Rajput states.
The district comprises two tracts known
as Ajmere and Merwara (pop. 541,900).
The Agent of the Governor-General for
Rajputana, whose headquarters are at
Abu, is ex-officio Chief Commissioner
of Ajmere. The city is of great an-
tiquity and celebrity, and is situated
in a valley, or rather basin, at the foot
of the rocky and picturesque Taragarh
Hill (3000 ft. above the sea). It is
surrounded by a stone wall with five
gateways, and is well built, containing
many fine houses of jsjbone with oroa-
Digitized by VjOOQ
124
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
mental facades. Ajmere was founded
in 145 A.D. by Ajaypal, one of the
Chohan kings.
In 1024, Mabmud of Ghazni, on his
way to Somnath in Kattywar, sacked
Ajmere, and Akbar conquered it in
1666.
The memory of the Ajmere Chishti
was held in particular respect by the
great Akbar, who was accustomed to
pay a yearly visit to his shrine.
Several of these pilgrimages were made
on foot from Agra and other places.
The road from Fatehpur-Sikri to Aj-
mere was so much usea by Akbar that
he caused **Kos Minars" (masonry
columns answering to our milestones)
to be erected along the route. Several
of these minars can still be seen from
the railway.
Thomas Coryat, in the 17th century,
walked from Jerusalem to Ajmere, and
spent £2 : 10s. on the journey. Sir
Thomas Roe, the ambassador of James
I., gives an account of the city in
1615-16. In about 1720 Ajit Sing
Rathore seized the city, which was
recovered by Muhammad Shah, and
made over by him to Abhay Sing. His
son Ram Sing called in the Marathas,
under Jav Apa Sindia, who, however,
was murdered, and in 1756 Ajmere was
made over to Bijai Sing, cousin of
Ram Sing. In 1787 the Rathores
recovered Ajmere, but after their defeat
at Patau had to surrender it again to
Sindia. On the 25th of June 1818
Daulat Rao Sindia made it over by
treaty to the English.
The Besidency is on the brink of
the beautiful artificial lake called the
Ana Saugar, constructed by Raja
Ana in the middle of the 11th cent.
It forms the source of the river Laoni,
which finally unites with the Delta of
the Indus. The Emperor Shah Jehan
erected a noble range of marble pavil-
ions on the embankment. They were
long the only public offices in Ajmere,
but the chief one is now used as the
official residence of the Commissioner.
The central and most beautiful pavil-
ion, in which the emperor often re-
posed, has been restored at great cost.
The walk along the bund or embank-
ment (which is public) is very de-
lightful, — quite the pleasantest sight
in Ajmere. If the flying foxes still
hang in the trees, they are worth ob-
serving. They are sure not to be
far off even if they have changed their
quarters, as they love the vicinity of
water. To the N. is the broad expanse
of the lake, and to the S. under the
bund is the Public Garden, The city is
supplied with water from the nev
le^e, the Foy Saugar, formed by an
embankment thrown across the valley
6 m. higher up. The water of the spring
known as the Digi, on the Nusseerabad
side of Ajmere, is said to possess a high
specific gravity, owing to the stratum
of lead through which it passes.
Akbar'8 Palace is outside the city
proper, to the £., not far from tlie
railwav station. The entrance gate is
very nne. It was an arsenal, and is
now used as a tehsil.
The mosque called the Arhai-din-ka-
jhompra, or "The Hut of two and a
half Days," is just outside the city gate
beyond the Dargah. It was built by
Altamsh or Kutbu-din about 1200
from the materials of a Jain temple.
The name is derived from a tradition
that it was built supematurally in two
and a half days. Modern archseolocrists
assert that it was probably erected byj
the same architect who built the Kutb
mosque near Delhi. It is uncertain]
whetner anv of the undoubtedly Hindu
pillars of which the mosque is built ard
now in siiu» Their ornamentation is
very complete, no two being alike. The
mosque proper, supported by 4 rows of
18 of these columns, derives its beauty
from the materials of which it is con-
structed. The screen in front of it is a
work well deserving attention: it ia
the glory of the mosque, and consista
of seven arches very similar to those
with which Altamsh adorned the court-
yard of the Kutb. In the centre the
screen rises to a height of 56 ft.
Nothing can exceed the taste witiii
which the Eufic and Tughra inscrip*
tions are interwoven with the moil
purely architectural decorations anl
the constructive lines of the design.
The bridle-path to Taragarh passei
this mosque, and by a steep asceol
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROtTtE B. AJMBRK
1^5
rMches the sttmtnit in 2 m. The tra-
veller can ride or be carried in a chair,
OT jhampan. The trip will occupy
three hours. The view from the top is
the principal reward for the trouble.
One of the principal points of inter-
est in Ajmere is the Dargah. It is ven-
erated alike by Mohammedans and
Hindus, and derives its extreme sanctity
from being the burial-place of Khwajah
Muin-nd-din Chishti, who was called
Aftab-i-MuIk-i-Hind. He died in 688
A.H.=1236 A.D. He was the son of
the shoes on entering the Dargah.
Passing through a lofty gateway, a court-
yard is entered in which are two very
large iron caldrons, one twice the size
of the other. These are known as the
great and the little deg. A rich pilgrim
may ofifer, at the annual fair and pilgrim-
age, to give a deg feast. The smallest
sum with which to buy rice, butter,
sugar, almonds, raisins, and spice to
fill the large deg is 1000 rs., and be-
sides this he has to pay about 200 rs.
as presents and offerings at the shrine.
The Arhai-din-ka-jhompra Mosque at Ajmere.
Khwajah 'Usman, and was called Chisti
from a qnarter in the city of Sanjar
in Persia. He had gone into a chapel
to pray, and his relative, the Chishti
frwnFatehpur-Sikri, coming to see him
00 the sixth day found him dead. Of
^family of saints and courtiers, Farid-
a-din is buried at Pak-patan, in the
^igab; Nizam-nd-din, Kutb-ud-din,
indNasir-ud-din atornear Delhi ; Shaik
Wim at Fatehpur-Sikri near Agra ;
aid Bandah Nawaz at Kalbargah in
he Beccan.
Woollen socks have to be put over
After this gigantic rice pudding has
been cooked Dy means of a furnace
beneath, it is scrambled for, boiling
hot. Eight earthen pots of the mix-
ture are first set apart for the forei^
pilgrims, and it is tne hereditary privi-
lege of the people of Indrakot, and of
the menials of the Dargah, to empty the
caldron of the remain(&r of its contents.
All the men who take part in this
hereditary privilege are swaddled up to
the eyes in cloths, to avoid the effect
of the scalding fluid . When the caldron
is nearly empty, all the Indrakotis
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He
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
ttimble in together and scrape it clean.
There is no doubt that this custom is
very ancient, though no account of its
origin can be given. It is generally
counted amon^ the miracles of the
saints that no uves have ever been lost
on these occasions, though burns are
frequent. The cooked rice is boi\ght
by all classes, and most castes will eat
it. The number of pilgrims at this
festival is estimated at 20,000.
The TonU) of the saint is a square
building of white marble surmounted
by a dome. It has two entrances, one
of which is spanned by a silver arch.
S. of it in a small enclosure with well-
cut marble lattices is the Mazar or
*' grave" of Hafiz Jamal, daughter of
the saint, and W. of it, close by her
tomb is that of Chimmi Be^am, daughter
of Shah Jehan. Christians may not
approach within 20 yds. of these holy
places. There are some very fine trees
in the enclosure.
W. of the sanctuary is a long, narrow,
and very handsome mosqiie of white
inarhle, built by Shah J^icm. It has
11 arches, and is about 100 ft long ;
a Persian inscription runs the whole
length of the roof under the eaves.
There is another mosqiie within the
enclosure — to the rt. on entering —
built by Akbar, Most of the outer
doors are completely covered with
horse-shoes, and many slips of writing
are plastered on the walls.
Before leaving the visitor will prob-
ably have a necklace of flowers put
round him, which it will be polite not
to take off until he has gone some
distance. A small present^ say 1 r.,
should be given in return.
To the S. of the Dargah enclosure is
the Jhalra, a deep tank where ablutions
are made, partly cut out of the rock and
lined by steep flights of irregular stexw.
Ajmere is the headquarters of about
1800 miles of metre-gauge rly. worked
by the B.B. and C.I. Railway Co.
Near the rly. sta. are very extensive
workshops emplo3dng many thousand
Hindu and Mohammedan workmen,
who accomplish their tasks with a
wondOTfolly small amount of European
supervision. Across the railway line
from the city is an extensive civil
station, inhabited almost exclusively
by railway officials ; and beyond their
houses S. is the Mnyo College fw the
education of youne Rajput princes
opened by Lord Dufferin m 1875. It
contains about 80 boys between the
ages of 8 and 18 years. A visitor,
even if pressed for time, ought to drive
through the grounds. The centril
buildmg is a handsome white marble
pile, slightly marred by some incon-
gnious aetails. The subsidiary build-
ings have been erected by native
bmlders for the chiefs as lodging-
houses for their pupils and servants.
Perhaps nowhere else in India is so
much good modem native architectnre
to be seen.
The Cantonment of NoBseerabad is
14 m. from Aimere (see p. 86).
[The traveller who has leisure should
visit the sacred Lake of Pushkar, about
7 m. Permanent pop. 4000.
The road skirts the W. shore of the
Ana Saugar. At 8 m. from Ajmere is
the village of Nausar, in a gap in the
hills which divide the Ana Saugar from
the Pushkar Lake. This striking pass
through the hills is 1 m. long. Push-
kar is the most sacred lake in India,
in a narrow valley overshadowed by
fine rocky peaks, and is said to be of
miraculous origin, marking the spot
hallowed by the great sacrifice of
Brahma. Early in the Middle Ages
it became one of the most frequented
objects of pilgrimage, and is still visited
during the great Mela (fair) of Oct. and
Nov. by about 100,000 pilgrims. On
this occasion is also held a great mart
for horses, camels, and bullocks.
Although the ancient temples were
destroyed by Aurangzib, the 5 moden^
ones with their ghats on the mai^gin oj
the lake are highly picturesque. That
to Brahma is usually said to be the orUi
one in India; but there are smaller
shrines to Bralunaatseveral old templed
Over the gateway is the figure of th^
hans, or **§oose," of Brahma. The D. B
is in a native house on the lake, fron
which there is a good view.]
658 nl. Naraina stat. The villagi
with a large tank is seen from the rly.
It is the headquarters of the Dadn-
panthi sect of reformers. Their relh
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ROUTE 6. JBYPORB
127
^OD, ethics, and teaching are embodied
mt mass of poetry written by Dadu
Pinth md his disciples. A division of
the sect is composed of military monks
who ser?e in the armies of the Jeypore
and neighbouring states.
^699m. Jfe7FORE(or Jaipur)sta., 3«c
D.B. Pop.. 143,000. Amb^r is the
uicient capital, Jeypore the modern ; it
is the lesidence of the Maharaja, whose
state covers nearly 15,000 sq. m., with a
pop. of 2,500,000, and the headquarters
of the Resident. It derives its name
from the famous Mahara.ia Siwai Jey
(or Jaya) Sing. II., who founded it in
1728. The town is surrounded on aU
sides except the S. by rugged hills,
crowned with forts. That at the end
of the ridge overhanging the city on the
K. W. is the Nahargarh, or * * tiger fort. "
The face of the ridge is scarped and
inaccessible on the S. or city siae, while
on the N. it slopes towards Amb^r. A
masonry, crenellated wall, with seven
gateways, encloses the whole city.
Jeypore is the pleasant healthy
capitol of one of the most prosperous
independent states of Rajputana, and is
a very busy and important commercial
town, with large banks and other trad-
ing establishments. It is a centre of
aatiye manufactures, especially that of
many kinds of jewellery and of coloured
printed cloths and muslins. The
enamel-work done here is the best in
Ma, and the cutting and setting of
gwnets and other stones found in the
«t»te is a large branch of industry.
"rhe crowded streets and bazaars are
i»08t Uvely and picturesque. The city
ii remarkable for the width and regu-
bity of its streets. It is laid out in
netuignlar blocks, and is divided by
(^ streets into six equal portions.
The main streets are 111 ft. wide, and
•ttjpaved, and the city is lighted by gas.^
htses to view the Maharaja's ralace
«id Stables and the old Palace of
Mh may be obtained from the
iZnident.
The Kaharaja's Palace, with its
heantiful gardens and pleasure pounds
I m. long, adorned witn fountains, fine
trees, and flowering shrubs, occupies
fte centre of the cify and covers f of
^ Sea LetUn (^Marque^ by Rudyard Kipling.
its area. The whole is surrounded by
a high embattled wall, built by Jey
Sinff, but many of the buildings in-
cluded in it are of a later date. The
Chandra Mahal, which forms the centre
of the great palace, is a loftv and strik-
ing building, seven stories high, looking
over the gardens.
On the ground-floor is the Diwan-
i-Khas, or private hall of audience,
built partly of white marble, and
remarkable even in India for its
noble simplicity. On the top story
there is a magnificent view over the
centre city. To the L are the gaudily-
furnished modern buildings containing
the apartments of the Maharajaand his
courtiers, and the zenana.
East of the Chandra Mahal is the
famous Jantra or Observatory, the
largest of the five built by the celebrated
royal astronomer Jey Sine (see Benares,
Muttra, Delhi, and Ujjain). It is not
under cover, but is an open courtyard
full of curious and fantastic instruments
invented and designed by him. They
have been allowed to go much out ot
repair, and many of them are now quite
useless, it being impossible even to
guess what purpose they served in the
wonderfully accurate calculations and
observations of their inventor ; but
dials, gnomons, quadrants, etc., still
remain of great interest to astronomers.
Adjoining the Observatory are the
royal Stables, built round large court-
yards ; and beyond them is the Hawa
Mahal, or HaU of the Winds, one of
Jey Sing's chefs cTosuvret a fantastic
and elaborate building, decorated with
stucco, and overlooking one of the chief
streets of the town.
In the central court of the palace are
the Raj Printing Office, the Clock
Tower, and the Armoury. To the E.
of the Diwan-i-'Am is the Parade
Groimd, girt with open colonnades,
behind which are the Law Courts.
Horses can mount to the top of the
palace by inclined planes.
Near the chief entrance rises the
Ishwari Minar Swarga Sul, the " Min-
aret piercing heaven,** built by Rajah
Ishwari Sing to overlook the city.
Public Gaxdezi, outside the city wall,
is one of the finest gardens in India,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
u
ftOUTfi 6. BOMBAT TO DELHt
India
L
70 acres in extent, and was laid out
by Dr. de Fabeck at a cost of about
400,000 rs. Attached to it are a fine
menagerie and aviary. These gardens
cost the Maharaja 30,000 rs. a year to
keep up. There is a fine statue oj
Lord Mayo,
In the centre of the garden is the
Albert Hall, a sumptuous modern build-
ing, of which the Prince of Wales laid
the first stone in 1876. It contains a
large Darbar Hall and a beautiful
museum, — an Oriental South Kensing-
ton, suitably housed. The collections
of modem works of art and industrj%
and also of antiquities, from every part
of India, are very complete and highly
interesting. There is a fine view from
the top.
The Mayo Hospital. —Beyond the
gardens is the hospital, of rough white
stone, with a clock tower. It can
house 150 patients.
The Church is on the way to the
Railway Station, a little to the "W. of
the road.
At the School of Art, a handsome
modem building, are first-rate technical
and industrial classes for teaching and'
reviving various branches of native
artistic industry, such as metal and
enamel-work, embroidery, weaving, etc
The Maharaja's Ck)llege.— In Jey-
pore public instruction has made greater
grogress than in the other states of
Ajputana. The College, opened in
1844 with about 40 pupils, had in
1889 and 1890 a daily class attendance
of 1000, and compares favourably with
similar institutions of the kind in
British India ; it is affiliated to the
Calcutta University.
The chattris, or cenotaph^, of the Ma-
harajas at Gethur are just outside the
N.E. city wall. They are in well-
planted gardens, the trees of which
are full of solemn-looking, gray-headed
monkeys. The first seen on entering
is Jey Sing's Chattri, the finest of all.
It is a dome of the purest white marble,
supported^ on 20 beautifully carved
pillars rising from a substantial square
platform, and profusely ornamented
with scenes from Hindu mythology.
S.E. of Jey Sink's Chattri is that of
his son Madhu Smg, a dome rising from
the octagon on arches reveraed. The
only ornaments are carved peacocks.
W. of this chattri is that of Pratap
Sing, his son, completed by the late
ruler Ram Sing. It is of white marble
brought from Alwar.
The water which supplies Jeypore is
drawn from a stream on the W . of the
city, running into the ChambaL The
pumping-station and high-level reser-
voirs are nearly opposite the Chandpol
Gate.
[An expedition for the sake of the
view may be made by elephant or on
foot to the Shrine of the Sun God at
Oalta, an uninteresting building ^50 ft
above the plain, and built on a ^'utting
rocky platform, on the summit of a
range of hills, about 1^ m. to the E. of
Jeypore, of which by far the finest view
is obtained from this point. The way
the sandy desert is encroaching on the
town should be noticed. It has caused
one large suburb to be deserted, and the
houses and gardens are going to ruin.
The sand has even drifted up the ravines
of the hills. This evil ought to he
arrested at any cost by planting.]
[The excursion to Ambdr (5 m.), the
capital of Jeypore till 1728, now ruined
and deserted, is most interesting, and
will occupy a whole day. It is neces-
sary to obtain permission to visit Amb^r
from the Resident of Jeypore, and that
official, as a rule, kindly asks the State
to send an elephant to meet the traveller
at Chandrabagh, where the hill becomes
too steep for a carriage.
On the left of the road a line of
fortified hills are passed ; these culmin
ate in the great Fort 400 feet above the
old palace, connected with it and built
for its defence. The picturesque situa-
tion of Amber at the mouth of a rocky
mountain gorge, in which nestles a
lovely lake, has attracted the admira-
tion of all travellers, including Jacque-
mont and Heber. The name is first
mentioned by Ptolemy. It was founded
by the Minas, and still flourishing in
967. In 1037 it was taken by the
Rajput, who held it till it was deserted.
The old Palace, begun by Man Sing,
1600, ranks architecturally second only
to Gwalior, though instead of standing
on a rocky pedestal it lies low on the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
nOUTE 6. 8ANGANER
129
slope of the hill, picturesquely rooted
on its rocky base and reflected in the
lake below. The interior arrangements
are excellent. The suites of rooms form
vistas opening upon striking views. It
is a grand pile, and though it lacks the
fresh and vigorous stamp of Hindu
originality which characterises earlier
bufldings, the ornamentation and tech-
nical details are free from feeble-
ness.
Entered by a fine staircase from a
great courtyard is the Diwan-i-*Am,
a noble specimen of Rajput art, with
double row of columns supporting a
massive entablature, above which are
latticed galleries. Its magnificence
attracted the envy of Jehangir, and
Mirza Riga, to save his great work
from destruction, covered it with
stacco.
To the right of the Diwan-i-'Am steps
is a small temple where a goat, offered
each morning to Kali, preserves the
tradition of a daily human sacrifice on
the same spot in pre-historic times.
On a higher terrace are the Raja's
own apartments, entered by a splendid
gateway covered with mosaics and
sculptures, erected by Jey Sing, over
^ich is the Svhdg Mandiry a small
pavilion with beautiful latticed win-
dows. Through this are further mar-
vels,— a green and cool garden with
fonntains, surrounded by palaces,
brilliant with mosaics and marbles.
That on the 1. is the Jey Mwndir^ or
Hall of Victory, adorned by panels of
alabaster, some of which are inlaid, and
others are adorned with flowers in alto-
relievo, ** the roof flittering with the
mirrored and spangled work for which
Jeypore is renowned." Near the Jey
ihndir a narrow passage leads down to
tJw bathing-rooms, all of pale creamy
nuirble. Above is the Sas Maridir,
"which literally glows with bright and
tender colours and exquisite inlaid work,
and looks through arches of carved ala-
baster and clusters of slender columns
upon the sleeping lake and the silent
mountains."
At theN. E. angle is a balcony, whence
there is a fine view over the town of
Amber and the plain beyond to the
hiU which overlooks Ramgarh. Some
[India]
chattris outside the wall are those of
chieftains who died before Jey Sing II.
In the palace to the ri^ht is a chamber
on the rt wall of which are views of
Ujjain, and on the 1. views of Benares
and Muttra. That opposite the Jev
Mandir is called the SukhNawaSy * * Hall
of Pleasure. '* In the centre of the narrow
dark room is an opening for a stream to
flow down into the groove or channel
which runs through the hall. The doors
are of sandal-wood inlaid with ivory.
A steep path leads down to the
Khiri Gate, beyond which, as it leads
to one of the forts, Kantalgarh, no one
is allowed to pass without an order.
At the bottom of this path there is a
temple to Thakurji, or Vishnu. It is
white and beautifully carved, and just
outside the door is a lovely square
pavilion exquisitely carved with figures
representing Krishna sporting with
the Gopis.
Amb^r formerly contained many fine
temples, but most are now in ruins.]
[Sanganer is about 7 m. to the
S. of Jeypore, a nice drive past the
Residency and the Moti Dongari, and
garden where the Indian princes who
are visitors to the Maharaja some-
times encamp.
A gateway leads into this town
through two ruined Tirpoliyas, or triple
gateways of three stories, about 66 ft.
high. The second story has an open
stone verandah, supported by four
pillars on either side of the archway.
Ascending the street is a small temple
on the rt. sacred to Kalyanji or KrishTUi,
the door of which is handsomely
carved. Opposite is a temple to Sita-
ram, with a pillar, 6 ft high, of white
Makrana marble called a Kirthi Kambh.
On the four sides are Brahma with four
faces, Vishnu, cross-legged, holding the
lotus, Shiva holding a cobra in his rt.
hand and a trident in his 1. , with Par-
bati beside him and Ganesh.
Higher up, on the 1. , are the ruins
of the Old Palace, which must once
have been a vast building. N. by E.
from this is the Sanganer Temple with
three courts. Visitors are not allowed
to enter the third. There are several
other old shrines in the place.]
Digitized by VjOOQIC
132
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
t
coined their own money, and their
currency was called Gokul Sikkah. It
is a place of considerable trade, particu-
larly in iron and salt The Town Hall
is handsome, as are the Jain Temples^
close to the town.
The rly. passes W. of the Kutb Minar
and of the tombs and ruins S. of Delhi,
a line of hills shutting them out from
view, and when near the city turns E.
(Here the Delhi, Umballa, and Ealka
Rly. turns N.) The line enters through
the W. wall, meeting in a fine central
station the E. I. Rly. and N. W. Rly.,
which enter the city over the Jumna
river bridge from the E.
890 m. Delhi junc. sta.,a^ D.B.
(193,600 inhab.)
History.
Little is definitely known of the
history of Delhi prior to the Moham-
medan conquest in 1193 a.d. It is
said that a city called Indraprastha
was founded by the early Aryan im-
migrants, under a king called Yudhis-
thira, and that the fort of Indrapat,
also called Purana Killa, or ''Old
Fort," stands on the site of this city.
The extensive ruins lying S. of modern
Delhi, and covering an area of about
45 sq. m., are the remains of seven
forts or cities, built by different kings.
The oldest are the Hindu forts of Lal-
kot, built by Anang Pal in 1052 a.d. ;
and Rai Pithora, built by the king of
that name, about 1180 A.D. The ruins
of these two forts, and the iron pillar
at the Kutb, are the only remains of
the Hindu period. The five Moham-
medan forts or cities were Siri, built by
'Alau-din in 1304 A.D. ; Tughlakabad,
built by Tughlak Shah, in 1321 a.d. ;
the citadel of Tughlakabad, built by
the same king at the same date ; 'Adi-
labad, built Dy Muhammad Tughlak
in 1325 A.D. ; and Jahanpanah, endosed
by the same king. The name Delhi
first appears in the 1st century B.C.,
but the area thus designated cannot
now be determined.
The modem town dates from the
commencement of the fort by Shah
Jehan in 1638, whence it was \
Shahjehanabad. Delhi has beol
quently attacked, and often cap!
It was sacked by Timur, the Moi
1398 ; by Nadir Shah, the Pem
1739 ; and by Ahmad Shah Durai
Afghan, in 1756. On the 10th II
1739, the small Persian gar^ -
which Nadir Shah had introi ^
into the city when he captured it'"^/
almost entirely put to the swoi //
the people. On the 11th he g^yf
troops, who had been summoned ^^jV
the encampment outside the city, c^.^^^
for a general massacre. From su^v . j
till 12 o'clock Delhi presented a { i ;
of shocking carnage, the horroiT'^
which were increased by the €3y|
that now spread to almost every qu M
of the capital. The Mogul Em^t
Muhammad Shah then interoedet, i^
the people, and Nadir replied, " [^
Emperor of India must never a«r f
vain," and commanded that the ^<
sacre should cease. A vast multi P^
of persons had perished, however,^ /
when Nadir left Delhi he carried ^^/
him immense treasures, estimate/f^ -
from 30 to 70 millions sterling^ .
famous Peacock Throne, and the 1 /
i-Nur, diamond. y^
In 1789 the Maratha chief, Mah
Sindia captured Delhi, and the T
thas retained it till, in September' -.
General Lake defeated Louis Bou| |
commanding Sindia's army, and s
possession of Delhi and of the f
and person of the Mogul Shah *i
In October 1804 Delhi was besieg
the Maratha, Jaswant Rao Holka]
successfully defended by the B ^
under General Ochterlony. '. >
that time to 1857 the old capit
India remained in the possessit
the British, although the descent
of the Mogul were allowed some
of royalty, and the name of 1
Bahadur Shah succeeded in 18315
was about 80 years old whe:
Mutiny broke out. With his
at Rangoon in 1862, the last
of the Mogul dynasty disapp
1 A list of sovereigns who reitcned i
from 1198, will be found o& p. uviii.
d by Google
by Google
d by Google
ROUTE 6. DELHI
133
The Siege of Delhi, 1857.^ 1
On the 10th of May 1857 there
were in the large cantonment of
Meenit, aboat 40 miles from Delhi,
a British force consisting of a battalion
of the 60th Rifles, a regiment of
Dragoons armed with carbines, and
a large force of Artillery, though only
two field-batteries were fully equipped.
The Native troops were one regiment
of Cavalry — the 3d, and two re^raents
of Infantry — the 11th and 20th.
Eighty-five troopers of the 3d Cavalry
had been imprisoned for refusing to
use the new cartridges, but were
released on the day above mentioned
by their comrades. On that day,
Sunday, when the sun went down,
the Sepoys broke into revolt. The
English soldiers in the cantonment
were in amply sufiicient numbers to
have crushed the mutiny locally had
they been conmianded by a competent
general, but General Hewitt does not
seem to have comprehended the neces-
sity for vigorous action, and the
mutineers, after setting fire to the
houses of the European officers, escaped
to Delhi. On the moraiog of the
11th there was still time for the
British Cavalry and Horse Artillery
to have reached Delhi soon enough to
have saved many precious lives, but
the General took no action.
In the meanwhile the Native Cavalry
arrived at Delhi, entered the city, cutting
down any Europeans met withj and then
found their way to the Fort, and in-
duced the 38th N.I. to join them.
The church was subsequently destroyed,
and all Christians met with put to
death. There were no British troops
either in the Fort, or in the cantonment
about 2 m. outside the city. The 64th
N.I. under Colonel Ripley was marched
from the cantonment to the Fort, but
at once fraternised with the 38th, and
allowed their officers to be shot down.
Major Abbott with the 74th N.I. and
two guns arrived next on the scene,
bat his regiment also joined the muti-
1 A traveller who desires a concise account
of the siege of Delhi, etc., without military
technicalities, cannot do better than refer to
Holmes' Indian Mvivtiy^
neers. Lieut. Willoughby, with two
officers, and six non-commissioned
officers defended the magazine, in the
city, against enormous odds ; and
finally exploded it, only three of them
surviving. No assistance arriving from
Meerut those who had taken refuge in
the Fort attempted to escape. Many
were shot down while doing so, and
Delhi, with its well-fortified palace and
strong city wall, was left in the hands
of the mutineers.
Instant measures were taken for the
concentration of European troops and
loyal native regiments upon Delhi.
Sir H. Barnard took command of the
troops collected at Kumal, and on 6th
June reached Alipur, where he halted
till the Meerut brigade joined him.
On the 7 th the latter brigade, after fight-
ing two engagements with the rebels,
arrived. On the following day the
combined forces marched on Delhi, and
found the rebels well posted and
supported by 30 guns 6 ra. north of
Delhi, at the village of Badli-ka-Serai.
Attacking the mutineers, Barnard
gained a complete victory. The most
important result of this success was to
give the British possession of "the
Ridge," from which all subsequent oper-
ations against Delhi were made.
* * On the left and centre of the Ridge,
obliquely to the front of attack, the
tents of the English were pitched a
little to the rear of their old houses,
and effectually concealed from the be-
sieged. The position on the extreme
right invited attack. It was sur-
mounted by an extensive building
known as Hindu Rao's house. A strong
body of troops was posted here, and in
an old observatory near it. About 800
yds. to the left of Hindu Rao's house,
and on the Ridge, was an old mosque,
and again 800 yds. to the left was the
Flag-Staff Tower, a double-storied circu-
lar building — a good post for observa-
tion, and strong enough to afford shelter
to troops. At these four points Barnard
established strong picquets supported
by guns. Beyond Hindn Rao's house
was the suburb of Subzee-mundee, which,
with its houses and walled gardens,
afforded shelter to the enemy, and was
in fact the key of the, English position.
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134
BOUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
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Beyond Sabzee-mundee, towards the
Kabul Gate, were the viUages of Kish-
engunge, TVevelyangunge, Paharipur,
and Tdiwara, all strong positions which
covered the enemy when they advanced
to the attack, but were too near the city
walls for us to occupy. A little to the
S. of the Flag-Staff, but farther to the
E., was Metcalfe House, on the banks of
the Jumna, with substantial outbuild-
ings, and a mound in their rear, which
seemed to recommend it for occupation.
Between it and the city was an old
summer palace of the Emperor, the
Kudsiya Bagh, with lofty gateways
and spacious courtyards, and in a line
between the latter and Hindu Rao's
house was Ludlow Castle, the house of
the late Commissioner Simon Frazer."
To take this great walled city Greneral
Barnard had a force of about 8000
British, one Ghoorka battalion, the
Coips of Guides, the remnant of certain
native regiments, and 22 ^ns. At
first it was intended to assamt the city
by night, but as failure would have
been disastrous, it was considered best
to delay till the expected reinforce-
ments liad arrived. Between the 12th
and 18th the rebels attacked the British
position four times, in front and rear.
Again on the 23d they attacked, having
been reinforced by the mutineers from
Nusseerabad. Fortunately the British
by that time had received an additional
850 men.
On the 24th General Chamberlain
arrived, and with him the 8th and 6l8t
Europeans, the 1st Panjab Infantry,
a squadron of Panjab Cavalry, and 4
guns, raising the British strength to
6600. The rebels had received an
accession of about 4500 from Bareilly.
On the 9th and 14th of July fierce
engagements were fought on the right
of the English position, near Hindu
Rao's house, in and about the Subzee-
mundee. In these engagements the
British lost 25 officers and 400 men.
7 On the 17th of July Gen. Reed
resigned the command, and made it
over to Brig.-Gen. Archdale Wilson.
At this time the besieging force was in
great difficulties ; two generals had died,
a third had been compelled by illness
to resign, the Adj. -Gen. and Quarter-
master-Gen. lay wounded in their
tents ; and the rebels had attacked so
often, and with such obstinacy, that
it had. come to be acknowledged that
the British were the besieged and not
the besiegers. On the 18th of July
the rebels made another sortie, which
was repulsed by Col. Jones of the 60th
Rifles. The Engineer officers then
cleared away the walls and houses
which had afforded cover to the enemy,
and connected the advanced posts wi^
the main picquets on the Ridge. After
this there were no more conflicts in the
Subzee-mundee. On the 23d of July the
enemy streamed out of the Cashmere
Gate, and endeavoured to establish
themselves at Ludlow Castle. They
were driven back, but the English
were drawn too near the city \rall8,
and suffered severe loss. An order
was then issued prohibiting pursuit,
which had led to so many disasters.
But reinforcements were now on their
way from the Panjab, and were to be
commanded by one of the best soldiers
that India had ever produced — Gen.
Nicholson.
"On the 7th of August Nichobon
stood on the Ridge at fielhi He had
come on in advance of his column
of 2500 men, which arrived on the
14th. On the 25th he marched out
towards Najafgarh with a strong
force to attack the Sepoys, who had
moved [to intercept the siege train
coming from Ferozepur. The march
was a troublous one, through deep
mud. He found the mutineers in three
bodies, occupying two villages and a
sarai in fronl^ afl protected by guns.
As the English passed the ford, the
water being breast-high even tiere,
the enemy poured upon them a shower
of shot and shell. Nicholson, at the
head of the 61st and the Fusiliers,
stormed the sarai, and captured the
guns ; but the Sepoys fought well,
and sold their lives dearly. Those who
survived limbered up their guns and
made for the brid^ crossing the Najaf-
garh Canal. Nicholson's men over-
took them, killed 800, and captured 18
guns. It turned out to be the Neemuch
Brigade who were thus beaten. The
Baraili Brigade had not com^ up
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ROUTE 6. THE SIEGE OF DELHI
135
Nicliolson blew up tho Najafgarh
Bridge, and returned to camp.
** On the morning of the 4th of Sep-
tember the siege guns, drawn by
elephants, with an immense number of
ammunition waggons, appeared on the
Ridge. On the 6th the rest of the Rifles
from Mecrut marched in. On the 8 th the
Jummoo contingent arrived, with Rich-
ard Lawrence at their head. Many, and
amongst them foremost of all Nichol-
son, chafed at the delay which occuiTcd
in stonning Delhi. The responsibility
of the attack rested with Archdale
Wilson, and he had stated the magni-
tude of the enterprise in a letter to
Baird Smith, of the 20th of August.
' Delhi is 7 m. in circumference, filled
with an immense fanatical population,
garrisoned by full 40,000 soldiers,
annedand disciplined by ourselves, with
114 heavy pieces of artillery mounted on
the walls, with the largest magazine of
shot, shell, and ammunition in the
Upper Provinces, besides some 60 pieces
of field artillery, all of our own manu-
facture, and manned by artillerymen
drilled and taught by ourselves; the
Fort itself having been strengthened by
perfect flanking defences, erected by
our own engineers, and a glacis whicn
prevents our guns breaching the walls
lower than 8 ft from the top.* These
eircomstances led Wilson to write that
the chances of success were, in his
opinion, an^hing but favourable ; but
he would yield to the judgment of the
chief engineer. Many condemned his
apparent reluctance to order the assault,
hut they have since acknowledged that
they did him less than justice, for the
principles of warfare were upon his side.
"Investment by the English, with
their limited means, being impossible,
it was necessary to concentrate all their
hreaching power on a portion of the
walls sefected for a front of attack.
This was the Mori, Cashmere, and Water
Bastions, with their connecting cur-
tains. This front was chosen because
the fire of the Mori Bastion alone com-
manded the approach to it, and because
there was excellent cover to within a
short distance of the walls. On the
evening of the 6th of September, a light
hitteryjconsisting of si^ 9-pounders and
two 24-pounders, under the command of
Captain Remmington, was constructed
on the plateau of the Ridge to protect
the operations going on below. On the
night of the 7th the first heavy battery
was constructed at 700 yds. from the
wall. It consistedoftwo parts connected
by a trench. The right portion held
five heavy guns and a howitzer, the func-
tion of which was to demolish the Mori
Bastion. The left held four guns to keep
down the fire of the Cashmere Bastion.
While darkness lasted the enemy only
fired twice, but when the morning re-
vealed the British plans, the rebels
poured in a shower of shot and shell,
but the English persevered in their
work, and oefore sunset the rebel
battery was silenced. The English
had lost 70 men in the trenches. The
left section of their battery maintained
a fire on the Cashmere Bastion during
the greater part of three days, but at noon
on the 10th it took fire and the guns
were of necessity withdrawn. By that
time No. 2 Battery had been finished
— the left section immediately in the
front of Ludlow Castle, and the right
section 90 yds. to the front of it. Both
were within 600 yds. of the city ; the
right section had seven howitzers and
two 18-pounders, and the left section
nine 24-pounders.
'* This battery did not open fire till
No. 3 Battery was completed. It was
built behind part of the Custom House,
at 180 yds. from the Water Bastion,
on which it was to play. The enemy
poured in such an incessant fire of
musketry, with occasional shells, that
it was impossible to work in the day,
and difficult at ni^ht. Meantime a
powerful mortar battery was con-
structed in the Kudsiya Bagh. At 8
A.M. on the 11th of September the nine
24-pounders in the left section of No.
2 Battery opened with terrific effect on
the Cashmere Bastion. The enemy re-
plied and severely wounded the com-
mandant of the heavy guns, but their
fire was soon silenced by No. 2 Battery,
aided by the mortars in the Kudsiya
Bagh. Then the walls of Delhi began
to Mill, and whole yards of parapet came
down. At 11 A.M. on the 12th No. 3
Battery unmasked^nd pounded the
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136
ROUTE 6. BOMBAT TO DELHI
India
Water Bastion into ruins. All through
the 12th and 13th the roar of 50 heavy
guns was heard day and night, without
intermission. On the 13th Alexander
Taylor, of whom Nicholson said, * If I
survive to-morrow I will let all the
world know that Aleck Taylor took
Delhi,* announced that the breaches
were practicable.
"The arrangements for storming
Delhi were forUiwith made. The 1st
Column under Nicholson consisted of
300 men of the 76th Foot, 250 of the
1st Fusiliers, and 450 of the 2d Panjab
Infantry. It was to storm the breach
in the curtain near the Cashmere
Bastion. The 2d Column, under Brig.
Jones, C.B., was to storm the breach
in the Water Bastion, and it con-
sisted of 260 men of the 8th Foot,
250 of the 2d Fusiliers, and 350 of
the 4th Sikhs. The 3d Column,
under Col. Campbell of the 52d,
was to assault the Cashmere Gate,
and consisted of 200 men of the 52d
Foot, 250 of the Kumaon Battalion,
and 500 of the 1st Panjab Infantry.
The 4th Column, under Major Charles
Reid, who so long and gallantly held
the post at Hindu Rao's house, was to
enter the city by the Lahore Gate. It
consisted of 860 men of the Sirmur
Battalion, the Guides, and other c<^rps.
The 5th Column, the Reserve, was com-
manded by Brig. Longfield, and con-
sisted of 1700 men. Besides these five
columns, Hope Grant with 600 sabres
of the 9th Lancers and Sikh Horse,
whose duty it was to prevent sallies
from the Lahore and Ajmere Gates,
were for long under heavy fire.
**0n the night of the 13th Lieuts.
Medley and Lang explored the Cash-
mere breach, and Greathed and Home
that of the Water Bastion. The morn-
ing of the 14th was fine and still.
Nicholson laid his arm on Brig. Jones's
shoulder, and asked him if he was
ready. He then rejoined his own
Column, gave the order to storm, and
immediately the heavy guns, which
were roanng at their loudest, became
silent. The Rifles sounded the ad-
vance, and the Ist and 2d Columns
ascended the glacis. The fire of the
enemy was terrible, and the Engineers
Greathed and Ovenden were the first
to fall. The stormers carrying the
ladders were led by Captain Baines
and Lieut. Mel^ e. When Baines reached
the Water Bastion he had only 25
men left out of 76. Both he and
Metje were carried disabled to the
rear. The 1st Column was divided
into two sections. Nicholson him-
self led one, and Col. Herbert of
the 75th the other. Nicholson was
the first to mount the walL In the
other section Lieut. Fitzgerald, who
was the first to ascend, was shot dead.
His place was soon supplied, and soon
both sections of the 1st Column had
carried the breach near the Cash-
mere Bastion, and taken up their posi-
tion at the Main Guara The 2d
Column, entered by the breach in the
Cashmere curtain, doubled along the
open space to their right,* and cleared
the ramparts to the Mori Bastion,
where the rebel gunners fought gal-
lantly, and were bayoneted at their
guns. The Column then advanced
and took the Kabul Gate, on which a
soldier of the 61st planted a flag. From
the Lahore Gate the enemy kept up a
galling fire. Nicholson collected a
number of men to storm this gate. As
he advanced he found himself in a long
nan-ow lane lined with marksmen on
both sides. Some of the enemy's guns
were brought to bear on the attacking
column, and the men fell fast. Major
Jacob of the 1st Fusiliers received his
death -wound. Captain Greville and
Lieut. Speke were struck down. The
Column wavered; Nicholson rushed for-
ward, his lofty stature rendered him con-
spicuous, and in a moment he was shot
through the body, and in spite of his re-
monstrances was carried to the rear todie.
" The 3d Column had been apjjointed
to enter the city through the Cashmere
Gate, which was to be blown open by
Lieuts. Home and Salkeld, Seigeants
Carmichael, Burgess, and Smith. Home,
with his bugler, was first down into
the ditch. He planted his bag, but as
Carmichael advanced with his he was
mortally wounded. Smith then ad-
vanced, and placed his dying comrade's
bag as well as his own, and prepared
the fuzes for ignition. Salkeld was
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ROUTE 6. THE SIEGE OP DELHI
137
ready with a slow match, but as he
was lighting it he received two bullets,
and falling he called on Smith to take
the match, which was taken by Bur-
gess, and Smith was in the act of
giving him a box of lucifers when Bur-
gess also fell with a bullet through his
body. Smith was now alone, but he
had struck a light, and was applying
it when a portfire went oft' in his face.
There was a thick smoke and dust,
then a roar and a crash, as Smith
scrambled into the ditch. There he
placed his hand on Home, who said he
was unhurt, and having joined the
Column went forward. The gate had
been shattered, but not so destroyed
as had been anticipated. But the 8d
Column passed through it. Smith
there obtained stretchers, and had Bur-
gess and Salkeld carried to the camp,
but both of them died — Burgess on tne
way, and Salkeld a few days afterwards."
Thus were the walls of Delhi won,
but before the whole place was in our
possession there was six days' more
severe fighting, which there is not space
to descnbe. Our loss in these street
encounters was most severe, and tried
greatly our exhausted force.
Itinerary.
The sights of Delhi and its neigh-
bourhood cannot well be seen in less
than 3 days. These 3 days may be
employed in the following manner : —
Ist Morning. — Fort and Palace,
Jumma Musjid, Jain Temple, Kalan
Mttsjid.
Afternoon. — Drive to Ferozabad and
Indrapat
2d Morning. — Visit sights outside
the town in connection with the Mutiny,
driving out by the Cashmere Gate and
returning by the Mori Gate.
Afternoon. — Drive by Jey Sing's Ob-
servatory to Safdar Jang's Tomb, round
by Tomb of Nizamu-din Auliya to that
of Humayun, and so back.
dd Day. — Starting early, drive to
Kutb, stopping en route to see the
Reservoir of Hauz-i-Khas. After an
early luncheon, proceed to Tughlakabad,
and back by the Muttra Road,
Objects of Interest within the
City.
The Fort which was built bv Shah
Jehan in 1638, has 2 grand gate-
ways to the W. The Lahore Gate is
truly a magnificent building, and from
the top is a fine view looking W. to the
Jumma Musjid, with, to its right, a
white Jaio temple and the Indian
town. Straight from the gate is the
street called the Chandni Chauk,
** Silver Square." To the right,
outside the city, are Hindu Rao's
house, and the other celebrated places
on the Ridge ; and imni( diately to the
S. is the Delhi Gate of the Fort, very
similar in appearance and construction
to the other.
Passing under the Lahore gateway,
the traveller will proceed due E. along
a great arcade like a huge cathedral,
but lined with shops on each side, to
the Nakar Ehana (A), beyond which
is the Diwan-i-'Am (B), or Hall of
Public Audience, " open at three sides,
and supported by rows of red sandstone
pillars, formerly adorned with gilding
and stucco-work. In the wall at the
back is a staircase that leads up to
the throne, raised about 10 ft. from
the ground, and covered by a canopy,
supported on four pillars of white
marble, the whole being curiously in-
laid with mosaic work. Behind the
throne is a doorway by which the
Emperor entered from his private apart-
ments. The whole of the wall benind
the throne is covered yiiih. paintings
and mosaic, in precious stones, of the
most beautiful flowers, fruits, birds,
and beasts of Hindustan. They were
executed by Austin de Bordeaux, who,
after defrauding several of the princes
of Europe by means of false gems, which
he fabricated with great skill, sought
refuge at the court of Shah Jehan,
where he made his fortune, and was in
high favour with the Emperor. In
front of the throne, and slightly raised
above the floor of the hall, is a large
slab of white marble, which was form erlv
richly inlaid with mosaic work, of which
the traces only now remain. " ^
1 Beresford's Guide to DdhLMbQ.
oogle
138 ROUTE 6. PLAN OF PALAOB IfM
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ROUTE 6. DELHI CITY
139
The Diwaa-i-Khas (D), or Private
Hall of Audience, is about 100 yds.
farther on to the E., and is a pavilion
of white marble open on all sides and
richly ornamented with gold (re^t
1891) and pietra dura work. The ceilmg
is said to nave been plated with silver,
which was carried otf by the Marathas
in 1760. Over the N. and S. arches is
written the famous Persian distich :
If on earth be an Eden of bliss,
It is this, it is this, none but this.
In the centre of the E. side is the white
marble stand on which the Takht-i-
Tans, or famous Peacock Throne,
carried away by Nadir Shah in 1739,
rested. It is still to be seen in the
Royal Palace at Teheran. It "was
so called from its having the figures
of two peacocks standing behind it,
their tails being expanded, and the
whole so inlaid with sapphires, rubies,
emeralds, pearls, and other precious
stones of appropriate colours, as to
iqiresent li^. The throne itseK was
• ft. long by 4 ft broad ; it stood
9t six massive feet, which, with the
- kdy, were of solid gold, inlaid with
.Mhies, emeralds, and diamonds. It
lis surmounted by a canopy of gold,
si^ported by twelve pillars, all richly
emblazoned with costly gems, and
a fringe of pearls ornamented the
borders of the canopy. Between the
two peacocks stood the figure of a
parrot of the ordinary size, said to
We been carved out of a single
emerald. On either side of the throne
stood an umbrella, one of the Oriental
emblems of royalty. They were formed
of crimson velvet richly embroidered
»ik1 fringed with pearls ; the handles
were 8 ft. high, of solid cold, and
stadded with diamonds. The throne
was planned and executed under the
supervision of Austin de Bordeaux,
already mentioned in connection with
the Diwan-i-*Am."
The Baman Bnzj (G) and Bang Mahal
(C), to the S. of the Diwan-i-Khas, has
in the centre of its N. wall a richly
carved and gilt screen, with a small
window in the middle, and above, the
Mizan-i-Insaf, or "scales of justice,"
The ladies* apartments here are of
white marble, beautifully inlaid below,
with fresco-work above, and adorned
with gilded scrolls. In the old days,
as is explained by the verses, they were
surrounded by a formal Oriental garden
and fountains. The palace must then
have been more beautiful than any-
thing in the East that we know of. Now
everything has been cleared away ; even
the houses have been removed, and the
buildings that are left have become
quarters for the English soldiers.
Viewing the detached remnants of the
royal residence as they now stand, it is
difficult to realise the general idea on
which the ground was laid out, but this
will be rendered more easy by an exam-
ination of the accompanying native plan
of the palace in its splendour, from a
plate in Fergusson's Indian Architec-
tv/re.
A shallow channel for water runs
firom the Baths beneath the Diwan-i-
Khas across the open courtyard to the
Saman Bun. The Baths (F), called the
'Akab Baths, are a little to the N. of
the Diwan-i-Khas. They consist of 3
large rooms, floored with white marble,
elaborately inlaid with pietra dura
work, and crowned with white marble
domes. In the centre of each room
there is a fountain, and in the wall of
one of them a reservoir of marble.
These baths were lighted by windows
of coloured glass in the roof.
Opposite to them, to the W., is the
Moti Musjid(E), or the " Peari Mosque,"
an architectural gem of white and gray
marble. It has a bronze door covered
with designs in low relief, and the
fa9ade has three arches. The mosque
proper has three arches, and is divided
into two aisles. The arches display
some Hindu influence. The walls are
most delicately decorated with low
reliefs. Saiyad Ahmad says it was
built in 1635 A.D. by Aurangzib, and
cost 160,000 rs.
The rest of the palace has been cleared
away to make room for barracks, etc.
Jamma Musjid.— This mosque is
said to be unrivalled for size. Mr.
Fergusson says it "is not unlike the
Moti Musjid in the Agra Fort in
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140
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
plan, though built on a very much
larger scale, and adorned with two
noble minarets, which are wanting
in the Agra example ; while from the
somewhat capricious admixture of
red sandstone with white marble
it is far from possessing the same
elegance and purity of effect. It is,
however, one of the few mosques, either
in India or elsewhere, that is designed
to produce a pleasing effect externally.
It IS raised on a lofty basement, and its
three gateways, combined with the four
angle towers and the frontispiece and
domes of the mosque itself, make up a
design where all the parts are pleasingly
subordinated to one another, but at the
same time produce a whole of great
variety and elegance. Its principal
gateway cannot be compared with
that at Fatehpur - Sikri, but it is
a noble portal, and from its smaller
dimensions more in harmony with the
objects by which it is surrounded.**
The gateways are surmounted with
galleries, on th^ roof of which are fif-
teen marble domes, with spires tipped
with gold. Above these are six fluted
marble minarets, with open arched
chambers at the top, and surmounted
with gilt pinnacles. These three noble
gateways are approached by grand
flights of steps, unrivalled elsewhere.
As of old only the Mogul Emperor
could enter the main gateway, so now
only the Viceroy of the Queen-Empress
may do so. Hence it remains shut
save on a Viceroy*8 visit.
The doors are massive and overlaid
with brass arabesques half an inch thick,
giving access to a stately quadrangle,
325 ft. square, in the centre of which
are a marble basin and fountain.
Round three sides of the quadrangle
i-uns an open sandstone cloister, 16 ft.
wide, with pillars of the same material.
The mosque proper is 201 ft. long and
120 ft. broad. The inscription gives
the date in Arabic as 1658 a.d., the
year in which Aurangzib deposed his
father, Shah Jehan.
Five thousand workmen were em-
ployed for six years in the construction
of this mosque. At the N.E. corner is
a pavilion in which are placed relics of
Mohammed. The traveller must not
forget to ask to see the MSS. and leHcs
here. There is a Koran written in
Kufik of the time of 'Ali, that is in the
7th century of our era ; one written by
the Imam Husain, very clear and well
preserved ; one written by the Imam
Hasan, the pages of which are much
crumpled at the beginning ; the Kafsh-
i-Mubarak or "Prophet*8 Slipper,** filled
with jasmine ; the Kadmu'l Mubarak,
" Footprint of the Prophet ** imprinted
on a stone ; Mui-i-Mubarak, a hair of
the Prophet's moustaches ; and part of
the canopy over the Prophet's tomb.
The two minarets rise to the height of
130 ft. They contain staircases, and
the ascent to the top is easy. At the
top are small pavilions, from which the
whole city can be viewed.
Chandni Chauk, which is the princi-
pal street of the city, runs from E. to
W. in almost a direct line from the
Lahore Gate of the Fort to the Lahore
Gate in the W. wall of the city. It is
lined with fine trees, and has a covered
aqueduct running along the middle.
Tne chief articles of native manufac-
ture are jewellery and embroidery in
gold and silver, and the best shops are
in this street. In the centre of the
Chandni Chauk is the Northbrook
Fountain. The Mosque of Roshanu-
daulah, also called the Sonala or
" Qolden Mosque," from its three gilt
domes, is close to this fountain. It was
built in Muhammad Shah*s reign, by
Roshanu-daulah Zafar Khan in 1721
A.D. It is a small but beautiful build-
ing, and on it Nadir Shah sat during
the massacre at Delhi. The KotwaU
is next to it, and it was here that
Hodson exposed the bodies of the Delhi
Princes whom he had killed. At the
W. end of the Chandni Chauk is the
Fatehpuri Mosque. It was built in
1 650 A.D. by Fatehpuri Begam, wife of
Shah Jchan. It is of red sandstone.
There are two minarets 105 ft. high.
The Mor (or Queen's) Sarai, in Queen's
Road, near the rly. sta., is a modem
structure buUt by the Municipal Com-
mittee at a cost of 100,570 rs. for the
accommodation of native travellers.
Close by are the Queen's €kurde&8.
They have the Chandni Chauk skirting
them to the S., and face the rly. and
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141
sta. on tlie N. They are laid out with
beantifol trees and shrubs of all kinds,
and in them stands a huge stone ele-
phant On the platform upon which it
is raised is an inscription stating that it
was brought from Gwalior, and set up
outside the south gate of his new palace
by the Emperor Shah Jehan, 1646 A.D.
A legend relates that the two famous
Rajput chiefs, Jaimall and Patta, who
defended Chitor against Akbar, were
represented by stone figures riding on
this and another elephant which has
been lost. Akbar himself killed Jai-
mall, and set up the elephants, with
the two warriors riding on them,
at Agra. Shah Jehan brought them
to Delhi They were mutilated by
Aurangzib and lost sight of. The two
figures are now in the verandah of the
Kuseom of the Institute, which con-
tains little of interest except portraits
of the two Lawrences, Sir it Mont-
gomery, Nicholson, Lord Metcalfe, Lord
Canning, and others—poor pictures, but
better than none. The Clock Tower
adjoins this building, and stands in the
Ch&ndni Chauk. It is of red sand-
stone, 128 ft. high.
The Kalan Musjid, or Black Mosque,
to the S. of the town near the Turku-
man Gate,* is well worthy of a visit as
one of the most perfect specimens of
the age of Feroz Shah Tughlak, 1386.
On the outside, the building consists
of two stories, of which the lower,
forming a kind of plinth to the actual
place of worship, is 28 ft. high, the
total height to the top of the battle-
ments being 66 ft. * * The sloping style
of the architecture seems peculiarly
illustrative of the buildings of that and
earlier periods. The sloping pilasters
on each side of the main entrance give
Bwnewhat of an Egyptian appearance
to the front of the building, which is
not dissimilar from those of the more
ancient remains of Hindu architecture.
. . . The peculiar construction of the
arches and domes, the stones of which
1 The Torktunan Gate has its name from a
saint called Shah Turkaman, who was styled
the " Sun of Devotees. " He died in 638 a. h. =
1240 A.D., in the time of Muizza-din Bahram
Shah, lliere is a pavement round his tomb,
and cm the 24th of R^jab a great ikir is held
are held together by the wonderful
adhesive qualities of the lime used in
those days, without any keystones, is
characteristic of the Mohammedan
Indian buildings of the 14th cent"
(Carr Stephen). The walls, which are
very thick, have in the upper story a
number of openings, filled with red
stone screens, now much mutilated.
There is a stern look about this sombre
unadorned building, the plan of which
Bishop Heber say^s **is exactly that of
the original Arabian mosques — a square
court surrounded by a cloister and
roofed with many small domes of the
plainest and most solid construction."
The Jain Temple, to the N.W. of the
Jumma Musjid (about end of last cent. )
is approached by narrow streets, and
stands upon a high walled platform
gained by narrow steps. It consists of
a small marble court surrounded by a
stucco colonnacfe in front of the temple
proper, which rises breast-high above
the court and is surmounted by an
oblong dome. Within, the ceiling and
walls are richly gilded, and are sup-
ported by two rows of small marble
columns. In the centre of the temple
is a pyramidal platform in 3 tiers, upon
which rests a small figure of Buddha,
seated beneath an elaborate ivory
canopy. In the porch, Fergusson
draws particular attention to the ex-
quisite device of filling in the back of
the struts which support the architrave
beneath the dome — characteristic of
Jain architecture — with foliated tracery.
The Cambridge Mission to Delhi
was sent out from the University in
1 876. The members live in community
at the Mission House near the United
Service Hotel. They work among the
natives in connection with the S.P.G.
which has an old-established station
here. The Mission Compound and St.
Stephen's Mission Church are close to
the railway station. The two Missions
conjointly have charge of St Stephen's
College^ of a native boys* boarding
school with 600 pupils, and seversu
day schools.
The S.P.G. has also a Medical Mis-
sion here.
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ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
InAia
Sites in oonnbotion with the
Mutiny and Siege op 1857.
The Bidge is outside the city about 1
m . to the N. W. The traveller driving
there from the rlv. sta. will pass the
following objects of interest on nis way.
Near the Post and Telegraph Offices
are the 8 Gateways of the Arsenal,
which was blown up by Willoughby
on the 11th May 1857. They have
been left standing in meTnoriam. From
what remains it is evident that it was
a fine building.
St. James's Memorial Church, rt.,
was erected at the sole expense of Colonel
Skinner, as recorded in a tablet on left
of entnince. Another tablet records
that he died at Hansi in 1841, and was
buried in this church in 1842. It is a
rotunda, with four large porticoes sup-
ported by pillars.
In the church are a-large number of
tablets of unusual interest, some to
commemorate regimental losses, some
in remembrance of whole families, and
others in memory of individuals. It is
a sad list ; a record of evil times.
Beyond to the W. is the Cashmere
Gate, which was blown in on the
morning of 14th September, and the
site of the breaches close to it through
which the storming columns Nos. 1
and 2 pass.ed. On a slab set up by
Lord Napier of Me^dala, just outside
the gate, the event is described.
Just inside the Cashmere Gate was
posted the Main Guard at the time of
the Delhi Mutiny.
Outside the Cashmere Gate, the
Kudsiya Gardens are about 300 yds.
to the N. ; they are prettily laid out.
Near them in the Cemetery, close to the
entrance, is the tomb of General Nichol-
son, one of the greatest heroes of India.
*< Who led the assault of Delhi, bat feU
In the hour of victory.
Mortally wounded,
And died 23d of September 1857.
Aged 86 years."
There is a splendid monument to
Nicholson in tne Puigab, near Rawal
Pindi, but this is the place where his
body was actually interred. At the
end farthest from the entrance is a
memorial cross 26 ft. high.
Just beyond the Cemetery is Lud-
low Castle, a large house which was
the residence of Simon Frazer, the mur-
dered Commissioner of Delhi. There
are two blocks of masonry in the com-
pound inscribed as follows : —
No. 2 Battery, Left,
With armament nine 24-poander8,
Mi^or Campbell, B.A., commanding.
To breach curtain of Cashmere Bastion.
The 2d block is 160 yds. to the S.E.
and close to the cemetery wall : —
No. 2 Battery, Right,
Armament two IS-pounders and
Seven 8-inch howitzers.
Major Edward Eats, B.A., commanding
Ludlow Castle was a post of importance
in the closing scene of the siege of Delhi,
as will be seen from the historical sum-
mary above. Continuing along the
Alipur Road, at some little distance the
traveller will pass Metcalfe House on
the right, and shortly after will reach
the Ridge Road, which commands a fine
view. Here is the Flag-staif Battery,
a castellated tower, now quite empty.
Turning at an acute angle to the S.E.
the Second Kcquet, 300 yds. to the S., is
reached, and 400 yds. farther in the same
direction is a mosque, where the Mosque
Picqnet was stationed. The building
is now a picturesc|[ue ruin. It is a
Pathan mosque, with the remains of
the battery in front. 200 yds. to the
S.E. is Hindn Bao's Honse, which is
now used as a convalescent hospital for
soldiers. It is a large white bungalow.
About 200 yds. S. of it is Asoka's Pillar.
Asoka's PiUar. — On the pedestal is
a tablet stating that this pillar was
originally erected at Meerut, in the 3d
century before Christ, by King Asoka.
It was removed thence, and set ud in
the Eushak Shikar Palace, near this,
by the Emperor Feroz Shah, 1356 a.d. ;
thrown down and broken into five
pieces by the explosion of a powder
magazine in 1713-19. It was removed
and set up in this place by the British
Government 1867 (see vol. v. of the
Arch. Bep. ) There are two of Asoka's
pillars at Delhi, this one and another
standing on the top of a building in
Feroz Shah's Eotila, in Ferozabad (see
below). Both of these pillars were
brought to Delhi by Feroz Shah. The
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ftOUTE 6. OLD DBLHI AND l^EiaHBOUBHOOD
143
small inficriptions on this pillar are
dated Samwat 1369=1312 A.i>. ; Sam-
wat 1416=1359 A.D. ; Samwat 1681 =
1524 A.D. All the lon^ inscriptions
are given at the end of Saiyad Amnad's
Guide.
The Mutiny MunoriaL— This is 400
yds. fjEtfther on along the Ridge, and
is of red sandstone. It forms an octa-
gonal Gothic spire, standing on three
HiminiBhing platforms, with seven win-
dows, and was erected to commemorate
the events of the siege, the names of
the regiments and baUeries who served
at it, and of the officers who died in the
performance of their duty. Ascending
to the top of the building, the traveller
will gain a complete view of the posi-
tion. In the plain to the N. of the
Ridge is the spot where H. M. the Queen
of England was proclaimed Empress of
India on the 1st of January 1877. On
that day Lord Lytton occupied a place
in a centre pavilion, with an amphi-
theatre in front of him in which were
all the feudatory princes and chiefs of
India, while at his back sat the leading
European officials and envoys from
places even as distant as Siam, and to
the W. an army of about 60,000 men,
British and Indian, was drawn up.
Turning from the Ridge S. by the
drcular road, the traveller may re-enter
the eity by the Mori Gate, close to
lAidi IS seen the Mori Bastion, from
^ihich the rebels maintained so terrible
a fire till the storming.
Old Dslhi and thb Neiohboubhood.
The Idgah is west of the city about
"1 m. from the walls, and not far off is
^Kadam Sharif, or "Holy Footstep"
^bo called the Farash Ehana), where
VMe is the tomb of Prince Fateh Ehan,
boat hj his father Feroz Shah in 1374.
There is also a Mosque, College, and
' o&er buildings, and a miraculous im-
press of the Irophet's foot, said to have
mea. brought from Mecca by the young
^l^lsee's tutor.
The Jail is J m. S. of the Delhi Gate,
on the opposite side of the road to
Ferozabad. It was an old Caravansarai,
and the walls are 26 ft. high, and very
massiTe. Paper, mats, carpets, and
bedding are made in the workshops.
To the E. about 260 yds. from the
jail is the fort of Ferozabad, built by
Feroz Shah Tughlak, 1354. It is now
utterly ruined, but must have been a
strong place in the old time when it
was the citadel of a city which extended
from the fort of Indrapat to the Eushak
Shikar, or "Hunting Palace," near
Hindu Rao's house, where the other
Pillar of Asoka, called the Delhi Meerut
Pillar, now stands. The three-storied
buildinff called Eotila (see below),
stands due N. and S., at } m. to the
W. of the Jumna. The tihree stories
diminish in area as they rise.
The Lat, or Asoka pillar erected on
the roof, is broken at the top in a
jageed way. Cunningham calls it the
Ddhi-Siwalik Pillar, as it was brought
from Tophar at the foot of the Siwalik
Hills, where the Jumna enters the plains.
It is a monolith of pink sandstone, but
the people of the locality called it
{Kurwnd) corundum stone. "When
the pillar was fixed, the top was orna-
mented with black and white stone-
work surmounted by a gilt pinnacle,
from which no doubt it received
its name of Minar Zarin or 'Golden
Minaret.' This gilt pinnacle was still
in its place in 1611 a.d., as when
William Finch in that year visited
Delhi, he described the pillar as passing
through three several stories, rising 24
ft. above them all, having on the top a
globe surmounted by a crescent. " The
pillar is 10 ft. 10 m. round, where it
issues from the roof, and the total height
is 42 ft. 7 in., of which 4 ft. 1 in. is
sunk in the masonry. At 10 ft. 1 in.
from the roof are some Nagri inscrip-
tions, with the dates in two of them,
Samwat 1681 = 1624 a.d. These must
have been inscribed after the removal
of the pillar to DelM. The others
were written at Tophar. Above these
Nagri inscriptions is the Pali, which
contains the edict of Asoka prohibiting
the taking of life. The Pali inscription
dates from the middle of the 3d century
B.a, and the characters are of the oldest
form that has yet been found in India.
Though it is very clearly written, when
Feroz Shah assembled all the learned
of the day to decipher the inscription,
they were unable to do so. The last ten
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144
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
lines on the K face, as well as the whole
of the continuous inscription round the
shaft, are peculiar to this pillar, other-
wise the inscription is to the same
pui*port as those on the pillars of Gimar
and Allahabad. There is a second in-
scription, which records the victories
of the Chauhan Prince Visaladeva,
whose power extended from Himadri
to Vindhya. This record consists of
two portions, the shorter one immedi-
ately above Asoka's edicts, and the
longer immediately below them. Both
are dated Samwat 1220 = 1163 A.D., and
refer to the same prince. The minor
inscriptions are of little interest.
Indrapat or Purana Killa (Old
Fort).— At 2 m. S. of the Delhi Gate,
the traveller (having passed rt. the fine
gateway of Lai Darwazah) will come to
the Old Fort, on the site of Indra-
prastha, the ancient city of Yudish-
thira, which fort was repaired by
Humayun, who changed its name to
Dinpanah. The walls of the Old Fort
have crumbled in many places, and it
certainly has the appearance of great
antiquity. There have been several
gates, but all are closed save one to
the S.W., reached by a steep incline.
The Killa Kona Mosque, the chief ob-
ject of interest, is, Fergusson says, one
of the most satisfactory buildings of its
class in India. It is a noble specimen
of the late Pathan period, in which
"every detail was fitted to its place
and its purpose. We forget the Hindu
except in its delicacy, and we recognise
one of the completed architectural
styles of the world." It is bi^ and
bold with huge arches and sharp fanely-
cut mouldings. To reach it you pass
along a lane between poor houses. It
was built by Sher Shah in 948 a.h.=
1541 A.D. It is of red sandstone, inlaid
with marble and slate, and covered with
inscriptions, texts from the Koran, in
the Naskh and Kufik characters. In
the alcoves and other parts the inlaid
work is very beautiful. The facade is
about 150 ft. long, and consists of 5
bays. The pendentives of the vaulting
are remarkably fine and should not
escape notice, and the struts which
support the side bays, which are oblong
in plan and not square are curious.
The white marble Eiblah is covered
with texts, which are marvels of oali-
graphy. In the angle towers it the
back of the mosque are octasonal
pavilions richly ornamented with ex-
quisite designs in red sandstone. To
the S. is an octagonal building of red
sandstone called the Sher Manail, 70 ft
high. In 963 A.H. = 1655 A.D. Huina-
yun placed his library here. On that
very night it was understood that
Venus would rise, and the Emperor,
wishing to see it, fell down the staircase
and died a few days afterwards of the
injuries he received.
Tomb of Nizam-ud-din AuUyaisabout
1 m. S. of Indrapat, and stands within
an enclosure surrounded by other tombi
and sacred buildings. The traveller
must leave his carriage and walk
through ruins to an archway. At 30
yds. from this is the Chausath Khamba,
or ** Hall of 64 Pillars," the resting-
place of 'Azizah Kokal Tash, foster
brother of the Emperor Akbar. It is
all of white marble ; and the "chased
style in which the pillars are oma-l
mented, the well -finished groined'
arches, and the beautiful screens, form
an uncommonly beautiful sight'
Azizah's cenotaph, also of white marblej
bearing the date 1623, is at the W.
end ; beyond it is that of his mother,
and tliere are eight others.
To the W. of the Chausath KhamH
is an enclosure in which is the Dargu
of Nizam-ud-din. The first thing oi
entering to be noticed is the tomb of th(
Amir Khusrau the poet. The real namj
of this personage was Abu '1 Hasan, an(
he was called Tuti-i-Hind, " Parrot i
Hindustan," from the sweetness of hi
style. His grandfather, a Turk, cami
to Hindustan from Trans -oxyana, ii
the time of Changiz Khan, and died a
Delhi, leaving a son named Amir Mah
mud, or according to others, SaiiO
din, who was high in the favour of th
Emperor Tughlak Shah. He perishej
in battle against the Hindus. His m
Amir Khusrau succeeded to the royi
favour, and eiyoyed the confidence j
patronage of seven successive empen
He became so famous that it is r
that S'adi, the celebrated Persian \
i visited India for the sole purpose (
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BOUTB 6. OLD DELHI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
145
seeing Mm. He was the author of 98
works, of which the greater part are
lost. His songs are still in popular
use. He died at Delhi in 1315.
At the N. end of the small square
building which forms Ehusrau's tomb
is a tall white marble slab, on which is
written, first the Moslem Creed, and
then 18 Persian couplets. N. of this
tomb is that of Mirza JehcmgiTf son of
Akbap Shah II. There are, as custo-
dians of the tombs here, 50 descendants
of Nizama-din's sister. The saint him-
self never married. The family are
Sufis. The tomb is of white marble,
and the handsome lattice-work is of the
same material. It is on the right of
the entrance into the enclosure, and the
tomb of Muhammad Shah is on the
left Muhammad Shah was the em-
peror whom Nadir Shah despoiled of
immense treasures.
To the S. of it is the tomb of the
tmlypious andheavenly-minded«7<3^n-
am, daughter of Shah Jehan. At
the W. end is a headstone 6 ft. high,
OB which at top is in Arabic, ** God is
the life and the resurrection," followed
by the letter Mim, one of the mystical
letters of the Koran, under which is a
Persian insoriptioii as follows : — ;
Save the green herb, place naught above my
head,
Such pall alone beflta the lowly dead ;
'Rtt fleeting poor Jehanara lies here.
Her sire was Shah Jehan and Ghist her Fir.
May God the Ghazi monarch's proof make
dcir.
The yerses end with a conventional
fifle, which expresses a prayer for her
&ther. The date is 1681.
The holy men of Chist are the family
teibed in connection with the Dargah
•tijmere.
On the left of Jehanara's tomb is that
irf'Ali Gkiuhar Mirza, son of Shah *Alam,
Od on the right that of Jamilu
Ifisa, daughter of Akbar Shah II.
! The building covering the tomb of
iTizamu-din, the greatest of the re-
Bowned Chisti saints, is of white
tearble; it is 18 ft. sq., and has a
^hdah 8 ft. broad, built by Mir
lOran's son. The date is 1063 a.h.=
K(2 A.D.
Over the actual cenotaph is a wooden
[India]
canopy, and as usual with tombs ot
great personages it is covered with a
cloth. The lattice-work screens of white
marble are exquisitely carved, and the
verandah is ornamented with a painted
flower scroll. To the W. two fine trees
overshadow the building, and a few
yards to the S. of them is a Kirni tree,
said to be as old as the time of Nizamu-
din.
N. of this is a Well with galleries,
built by the saint, who is said to have
blessed it, so that no one who dives in it
is ever drowned. The usual depth is 39
ft. Into this men and boys sprmg from
the roofs and walls of the adjacent build-
ing, coming down from a height of 50 ft.
On the E. side of the tomb enclosure
is a square marble cistern, holding
perhaps twelve gallons, which when a
person desires to make an offering has
to be filled with a mixture of rice,
sugar, milk, and other good things.
On one occasion, when the writer sat
reading in the mosque, one of the
principal dancing women of Delhi
arrived to pay her devotions, accom-
panied by her mother and her attendant
musicians, and bringing the food in a
very large iron pot with her. Whilst
this was preparing she dressed herself
in cloth of gold and danced for a long
time before the tomb of Khusrau, and
afterwards for a shorter time before
that of Nizamu-din. When this part of
the ceremony was over, the food which
had been placed in the marble vessel was
distributed in a very orderly manner
to every one connected with the place,
H. G. Keene says of Nizamu-din : " He
is said by some to have been a sorcerer,
by others an assassin of the secret
society of Khorasan. Sleeman was of
opinion that he was the founder of
Thuggism, as the Thugs profess a special
reverence for his memory."
Humayun's Tomb about 1 m. S. of
Indrapat. The approach is through
two gateways, the first being of red
sandstone, and lofty. On the left of
the second door of the entrance is a
placard which says that the Nawab
Hamidah Bano Begam, otherwise called
Haji Begam, widow of Humayun, built
the mausoleum after her husband's
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ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
Mm
death. He died in 1555 a.d. It cost 1 5
lakhs, and took 16 years to build.
Hamidah Bano and other members of
the Imperial family are buried here.
The mausoleum stands upon a wide
Sketch Plan of Humayun's Tomb.
raised platform, and consists of a large
central octagon surmounted by a dome
with octagon towers of unequal sides
at the angles. " Its plan is that after-
wards adopted at the Taj, but used
here without the depth and poetry of
that celebrated|building. It is, however,
a noble tomb, and anywhere else must
be considered a wonaer " (Fergusson).
A side door leads into a chamber in
which are three beautiful white marble
tombs, being those of 'Alamgir II.,
Farakh Sir, and Jehandar Shah.
There are no names or dates. Huma-
ynn^s cenotaph is of white marble, and
is under the centre of the dome, in an
octagonal hall, — it is quite plain, with-
out any inscription.
The enclosure in which the mauso-
leum stands contains about 11 acres.
The red sandstone is most artistically
picked out in relief with white marble.
The windows are recessed, and the
lower doors are filled in with lattices
cut out of the solid stone and marble.
In the centre of each side of the main
octagon is a porch 40 ft. high with a
pointed arch. The wall of the dome
IS 11 ft. thick, and covered with slabs
of white marble. The view from the
top is worth seeing. Hither Baha-
dur Shah fled after the storming of
Delhi in 1857, and surrendered to
Hodson, who on the following day, with
a small force and in the presence of a
threatening concourse of natives, re-
turned for the princes, the sons of
Bahadur Shah, who also surrendered
and were shot by him on the spot.
Jai ( Jey) Sing's Observatory, or tk
Jantr Mantr, is 2 m. S. of the Ajmere
Gate and 250 yds. to the 1. of the main
road. Mr. Beresford's description of all
these buildings is the best (see Ddhi^
1856). "The largest of the buildings
is an immense equatorial dial, named
by the Raja the Samrat Yantra, or
* Prince of Dials,* the dimensions of the
gnomon being as follows : —
It in.
Length of hypothennse . . 118 5
„ base . . . . 104 0
„ perpendicular . . 56 7
These buildings, chiefly interesting
to persons who have a knowledge of
astronomy, were constructed in 1131
A. H. = 1 724 A. D. , by Jai Sing II. , Rajd
of Jeypore, commonly called Sawai Jai
Sing. He was an engineer, mathe-
matician, and an astronomer. He con-
sti-ucted on his own plan this Observa-
tory, and others at Jeypore, Benares,
and Ujjain. All the buildings are now
much ruined.
Tomb of Safdar Jang.— At f m,
beyond the Jantr Mantr, on the I ighl
of the road, is the tomb of Safdar Jang
whose real name was Abu '1 Mansni
Khan, Safdar Jang being merely hi
title. He was Vazir to Amad Shah
eldest son of the Emperor Muhamma(
Shah. In 1749-50 Safdar Jang engag«
in a war with the RohiUas, and wi
defeated in a great battle, when he wa
obliged to call in the Marathas, L
1753 he was deprived of his office o
Vazir, and died. His son, Shuj'an
daulah, appointed Balal Muhamma
Khan to superintend the building c
this mausoleum, which cost three lakh
of rupees. It is of red sandstone an
stucco. Safdar Jang's wife, Ehujistai
Bano Begam, is buried with him.
The mausoleum stands in an ez
closure. On the left of the entraiw
is a sarai for travellers, and on tt
right a mosque with three cupolas. O
the gi'ound platform are two earthe
mounds, which are the real grave
This building is 99 ft. sq. and three stori*
high, and contains in the central aipa*
ment the marble cenotaph. Fergasae
bestows only qualified praise upon it, sag
ing *' it will not bear close inspection.
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147
A cross-road leads from this mau-
soleum to Humayun's Tomb, which is
distant under 3 m. On the left of this
road is a group of four tombs, regarding
which General Cunningham writes :
"The N. group, consisting of two octa-
gonal tombs and a bridge of seven arches,
is attributed by the natives to the time
of the Lodi family, the larger tomb,
within a square, being assigned to
Sikandar Lodi, and I believe that this
attribution is most probably correct.
But the S. group, which consists of a
mosque and two square tombs, belongs,
in my opinion, to an earlier period."
Hau-i-Ehas. — This reservoir was
constructed by Sultan 'Alau-din in
the year 1293 A.D. ; it is 2 m. N. of the
Kutb, near the viUage of Kharera, and
is difficult of approach, as there is no
carriage-road to it. It is most easily
reached from Safdar Jane's tomb. The
area of the tank is a little over 100
Indian acres. It is now a complete
ruin. Feroz Shah cleared it out in the
wa 1354 A.D., and repaired it and
kilt a college near it, at which Yusuf
Bin Jamal Husaini was professor, and
he was buried in the courtyard of the
wlWe. The tomb of Feroz Shah stands
on the bank. He died in 1388 a.d.
The tank is now dry, and is culti-
tated.
From Safdar Jang's tomb to the
Kutb Minar is full 6 m. Near Begam-
fw there is a mosque 800 yds. to the
left of the road.
The Eutb Hinaf , with its adjacent
■weque and surrounding buildings, is
j *kout 11 m. from the Ajmere Gate, and
•tiods, it is said, on the site of the
j JBginal Hindu city of Dilli, probably
jfethe Fort of LcUTcot built by Anang
; fWII. in 1052 a.d. Adjoining to the
B. was the Fort of Rai Pithora, 1180
j-A-D. The line of fortification of these
^•ees is indicated by the mound ex-
fending several miles to the W. and
I The Kutb is a grand monument, and
faob what it is intended to be — a
' of victory. 1 1 has been a question
[[hetiier it was not originally Hindu,
and completed by the Moham-
conquerors. It is the general
of tiie people that it was built
by Rai Pithora, that his daughter
might see the Jumna from the top
of it. Saiyad Ahmad inclines to the
belief that it is of Hindu origin. But
Cunningham seems to come to the right
conclusion that it is a purely Moham-
medan building.^ The inscriptions
appear to show that it was begun by
Altamsh. As we see it at present, it is
240 ft. 6 in. high, and rises in a suc-
cession of 5 stories marked by corbelled
balconies and decorated with bands
of inscription. The base diameter is
47 ft. 3 in., and that of the top about
9 ft. The three first stories are of
red sandstone with semicircular and
angular flutings ; the two upper stories
are faced chiefly with white marble,
and were almost entirely rebuilt by
Feroz Shah Tughlak in 1368, when he
also added a cupola. On 1st Aug.
1803 the whole pUlar was seriously
injured by an earthquake and the
cupola thrown down. It was injudi-
ciously restored in 1829, when besides
the injury to the inscriptions already
mentioned, the battlements and the
balconies were removed and replaced
by the present flimsy balustrades, and
an entirely new cupola (now standing
on a mound by the side of the tower)
was erected. This cupola does not
pretend to any resemblance to the
original one. Notice should be taken
of the honeycomb work beneath the
brackets of the first-story balconies, of
which the ** structure differs in no
perceptible degree from that in the
Alhambra." It is worth, for the sake
of the view, to ascend to the top of the
Minar, where may be seen the stump
of Feroz Shah's cupola.
The Mosque of Eutb'iU Islam (Kuvat
ul Islam) was begun by Kutb-ud-din
Aibak when Viceroy, inmiediately after
the capture of Delhi in 587 A.H. = 1191
A.D., as recorded by the King himself
in the long inscription over the inner
archway of the E. entrance. Even in
ruins it is a magnificent work. It was
seen by Ibn Batuta about 150 years
after its erection, when he describes it
as having no equal, either in beauty or
extent. It is not so large as the great
1 For particulars regarding the discussion
see ArchcBO. Be/ports, voL 1. p. 190.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
148
ROUTE 6. BOMBAT TO DELHI
India
mosques of Jaunpor and others, but
is still unrivalled for its grand line of
gigantic arches, and for the graceful
demolished by the Mohammedans.
Altamsh in 1210-1280 surrounded it
by a larger cloistered court, in the S.E.
PLAN
OF
MOSQUE OF KUTBU'L ISLAM
AND THE
KUTB MINAR
o
Tomb of
beauty of the flowered tracery which
covers its walls.
It occupies the platform on which
stood Rai Pithora's Hindu Temple,
comer of which stands the Eatb I
and in 1800 'Ala-ud-din appends
further eastern court, enterod
great S. gateway the Alai Da
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE e. OLD DELHI AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
149
, (we below). 'Alau-din also began the
Alai Minar (see below). The main
mtnmce to the mosque is an arched
gteway in the centre of its E. wall.
fhia opens upon the courtyard (142
ft. X 108 ft), which is surrounded by
doisters formed of Hindu, Buddhist,
mdJainpillarsplacedoneupon another.
Some of these are richly ornamented ;
imanyof the figures have been defaced by
the Mohammedans, though some may
still be found in unnoticed comers. The
number of pillars thus brought into
use could not have been much less than
1200. The Arabic inscription over the
1 entrance to the courtyard states that
tiie materials were obtained from the
demolition of 27 idolatrous temples,
each of which had cost 27 lakhs of
diKak, 50 dilials being equal to 1 rupee.
The cost of the whole, therefore, was
^108,000. The domed pavilions in the
angles of the cloisters are worthy of
Qotioe. The S. side of the cloister was
*^th a strange want of discrimination"
leconstructed in 1829.
The famous Iron Pillar (see below)
stands in front of the central opening
to the mosque proper, a building of
finall proportions, now in ruins over-
topped and hidden by the vast screen
of gigantic arches which occupies the
^ole of the W. side. This screen was
erected by Kutb later than his other
work, and was extended beyond on
either side for 116 ft. by Altamsh.
lie central arch is 63 ft. high x 31 ft.
wide. "The Afghan conquerors had a
tolerably distinct idea that pointed
wAes were the true form of architec-
fewl openings, but being without
l^ace sufficient to construct them,
m left the Hindu architects and
Iwders to follow their own devices as
l^^mode of carrying out the form.
Iccordingly they proceeded to make
lie pointed openings on the same prin-
iple upon which they built their domes
-they carried them up in horizontal
otuses as far as they could and then
tosed them by long slabs meeting at
te top." The impost in the central
Kh was added by the British restorers,
be ornamentation, interspersed with
Kts from the Koran, is evidently
^n from that on the old pillars.
Fragments of the roof of the mosque
still remain, supported by the small
Hindu columns, and do not reach more
than one-third of the height of the
screen.
The Iron Pillar is one of the most
curious antiquities in India. The Col-
ossus of Rhodes and the statues of
Buddha, described by Hiouen Thsang,
were of brass or copper, hollow, and of
pieces riveted together ; but this pillar
IS a solid shaft of wrought iron, more
than 16 in. in diameter, and 23 ft. 8 in.
in length. The height of the pillar
above ground is 22 ft., but the smooth
shaft is only 16 ft., the capital being 3 J
ft. and the rough part below also 3f ft.
Dr. Murray Thompson analysed a bit
of it, and found that it was pure
malleable iron of 7*66 specific gravity.
"The iron pillar records its own
history in a deeply cut Sanscrit
inscription of six lines on its W. fstce.
The inscription has been translated by-
James Prinsep (B.A»S, Joum, vol. vii.
p. 630). The pillar is called * the Arm
of Fame of Raja Dhava.' It is said
that he subdued a people on the
Sindhu, named Vahlikas, and obtained,
with his own arm, an undivided sover-
eignty on the earth for a long period."
It appears that the Raja was a wor-
shipper of Vishnu, and the pillar was
probably surmounted by a figure of
that deity. James Prinsep assigns the
3d or 4th century after Christ as the
date of the inscription, which Mr.
Thomas considers too high an antiquity.
General Cunningham suggests the year
319 A. D. According to universal tradi-
tion, the pillar was erected by Bilan
Deo, or Anang Pal, the founder of the
Tomar dynasty. The name of Anang
Pal also is inscribed on the shaft, with
the date Samwat 1109 = 1052 a.d. The
remaining inscriptions are numerous
but unimportant. At 7 ft. 3 in. from
the pedestal there is a Nagri inscrip-
tion. At 4 ft above the inscription is
a deep indentation, said to have been
made by a cannon-ball fired by the
troops of the Bhurtpur Raja.
Tomb of Altamsh (who died in 1235
A.D.) outside the N.W. comer of the
great enclosure of the mosque. It is
of red sandstone. The ipain entrance
Digitized by VjOOQ
150
ROUTE 6. BOMBAY TO DELHI
India
is to the E., but there are also openings
to the N. and S. The interior is in-
scribed with beautifully written pass-
ages of the Koran, and in the centre of
the W. side is a Kiblah of white marble
discoloured with age. About 5 ft. from
the ground are several lines in Kufik.
The tomb is in the centre, and has
been greatly injured ; the top part is of
modem masonry. Cunningham says
that there is no roof, "but there is
good reason to believe that it was
originally covered by an overlapping
Hindu dome. A single stone of one
of the overiapping circles, with Arabic
letters on it, still remains. " Fergusson
says: "In addition to the beauty of
its details, it is interesting as being the
oldest tomb known to exist in India. "
The Alai Darwazah, 40 ft. to the
S.E. from the Kutb Minar, is the S.
entrance of the great or outer enclosure
to the mosque. This gateway was
built of red sandstone richly orna-
mented with patterns in low relief, in
1310 A.D., by 'Alau-din. Over three
of the entrances are Arabic inscriptions,
which give *Alau-din's name, and his
weU- known title of Sikandar Sani,
the second Alexander, with the date
710 A.H. The building is a square.
On each side there is a lofty doorway,
with pointed horse-shoe arches. In
each comer there are two windows
closed by massive screens of marble
lattice-work. A few yards to the E.
stands the richly carved building, in
which is the tomb of Imam Zamin, or
father of Imam Muhammad 'Ali, of
Mashhad. He is otherwise called
Saiyad Husain. He came to Delhi in
the reign of Sikandar, and himself built
the mosque as a tomb. He died in 944
A.H. = 1537 A.D., and left in his will
that he should be buried here. There
is an inscription in the Tughra char-
acter over the door. It is a small
domed building, about 18 ft. square, of
red sandstone covered with chunam.
Alai Minar is at the distance of 435
ft. due N. from the Kutb. Just above
the base or platform, which is 4 ft. 3
in. high, the circumference is 259 ft
The traveller must climb 8 ft of wall
to get into this Minar. The whole
stands on a moimd 6 ft high. The
inner tower and outer wall are made
of large rough stones, very coarse
work, as the stones are put in anyhow,
The total height as it now stands is 7C
ft. above the plinth, or 87 ft above
the ground-level. A facing of red stone
would doubtless have been added. The
eutrance is on the E., and on theN.
there is a window intended to light
the spiral staircase. Had this pillar
been finished it would have been
about 600 ft. high. 'Alau-din Khilji,
who built it, reigned from 1296 to
1316 A.D., and Cunningham thinb
that the building was stopped in
1312.
Metcalfe House was the tomb of
Muhammad Kuli Khan, the foster
brother of Akbar. It has been en-
larged, and rooms have been added fw
modern requirements. It is less thai
a 4 m. from the Kutb Minar. Si
T. Metcalfe made this his residenci
during the four rainy months. Ther
were beautiful gardens in his time, an(
fine stables to the S., of which only tb
entrance pillars now remain.
Some other Buildinge. — 1 m. to th
N.E. is a solitary tower, N. of thi
tower is the tomb of Akbar Khai
brother of Adham and Muhamma
Kuli Khan. ^ m. along a made road t
the S.W. are the tombs of Jamali
din and Kamalu-din, Maulvis ; the
are white marble, covered with roofi
and have side walls adorned with ei
caustic tiles and exquisite decoration)
The handsome mosque of Faizu '11a
Khan is close to these.
The Police Rest-hmise is the Ton
of Adham Khan; it lies S.W. •
the Kutb, and is 75 ft. high. Tb
Khan was put to death by Akbar f<
killing the Emperor's foster-brothe
Adham was thrown from the top of
lofty building, and it happening th
his mother died the same day, the ts
bodies were brought to Delhi and i
terred here. Close by is a deep W<
into which the natives let themselv
fall from a height of 60 ft. above ti
water, and then demand 8 annas eat
from the spectators.
S.W. of the Kutb Minar is i
village of Maharoli. The tomb
Kutbu-din Ushi is here, as are al
Digitized by VjOOQIC
u^
1i '0\^ /^ t^^i*
ROUTE 6. OLD DELHI
several tombs of kings after the time
of Auiangzib. f m. from this a
pared way is passed leading to the
Temple of Jog Maya, which is very
famous amongst Hindus, who refer it
to the very ancient date of Krishna's
childhood. In fact, however, the
present building was erected in 1827.
There i& no image in it. There is a
iair here every week. On the rifht are
the rains of the palace of Altamsn, and
on the left the entrance gateway to a
garden of the king.
Toffhlakabad. — This fort is upwards
of 4 m. to the E. of the Kutb. It
is on the left of the main road coming
from Delhi, and is built on a rocky
eminence from 15- to 30 ft. high.
Oanningham thus describes it (Arch.
Iiq>. vol. L p. 212): "The fort may
be described with tolerable accuracy as
a half hexagon in shape, with three faces
o! rather more than | m. in length,
and a base of 1^ m., the whole circuit
being only 1 furlong less than 4 m. It
stands on a rocky height, and is built
of massive blocks of stone, so large and
heavy that they must have been quar-
ried on the spot. The largest measured
was 14 ft. in len^h by 2 ft. 2 in., and 1
ft thick, and weighed rather more than
6 tons. The short faces to the W. , N. ,
ind K are protected by a deep ditch,
and the long face to the S. by a large
sheet of water, dry, except in the rainy
season, which is held up by an embank-
ment at the S.E. comer. On this side
the rock is scarped, and above it the
main walls rise to a mean height of 40
ft, with a parapet of 7 ft, behind which
rises another wall of 15 ft., the whole
height above the low ground being
i5>ward8 of 90 ft"
In t^e S.W. angle is the citadel,
which occupies about one-sixth of the
area. It contains the ruins of an exten-
sive palace. The ramparts are raised
on a lino of domed rooms, which rarely
oommanicate with each other, and
which formed the quarters of the
garrison. The walls slope rapidly in-
wards, as much as those of Egyptian
buildings* and are without ornament,
but the vast size, strength, and visible
aolidily of the whole give to Tu^h-
lakabad ao. air of stem and massive
AND NEIGHBOURHOOD , 151
grandeur that is both striking and im- ^
pressive. The fort has thirteen gates,
and there are three inner gates to the ^
citadel. It contains seven tanks, and '"'
ruins of several larffe buildings, as the
Jumma Musjid, and the Birij Mandir.
The upper part is full of ruined houses,
but the lower appears never to have
been fully inhabited. Saiyad Ahmad
states that the fort was commenced in
1321, and finished in 1323, A.D.
The fine Tomb of TughWc is outside
the S. wall of Tughlakabad, in the
midst of the artificial lake, and sur-
rounded by a pentagonal outwork,
which is connected with the fort by
a causeway 600 ft. long, supported on
27 arches. Mr. Fergusson says : ** The
sloping walls and almost Egyptian
solidity of this mausoleum, combined
with the bold and massive towers of
the fortifications that surround it, form
a picture of a warrior's tomb unrivalled
anywhere." The outer walls have a
slope of 2*333 in. per foot; at base
they are \\^ ft. thick, and at top 4 ft.
The exterior decoration of the tomb
itself depends chiefly on difference of
colour, which is effected by the free use
of bands and borders of white marble
inserted in the red sandstone. In ^lan
it is a square, and three of its four sides
have lofty archways, the space above
the doorway being filled with a white
marble lattice screen of bold pattern.
It is surmounted by a white marble
dome. A lesser dome within the same
pentagon covers, it is said, the tomb
of one of Tughlak's ministers.
"Inside the mausoleum there are
three cenotaphs, which are said to be
those of Tughlak Shah, his Queen, and
their son Juna Khan, who took the
name of Muhammad when he ascended
the throne."
A causeway runs to 'Adilabad, the
fort of Tughlak's son Juna Khan, who
assumed the title of Muhammad Shah
bin Tughlak. He was a famous tyrant,
and is still spoken of as the Khuni
Sultan, "the bloody King." Feroz
Shah, his successor, got acquittances
from all those he had wronged, and
put them in a chest at the head of the
tyrant's tomb, that he might present
them when called tojudgment.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
15S
ROUTE 7. AHMEDABAD TO SOMl^ATH
India
ROUTE 7
Ahmbdabad to the Runn of Cutch
(Wadhwan, Bhaunagar, Pali-
tana, GiRNAR, AND SOMNATH).
Leaving Ahmedabad (Rte. 6), 310 m.
from Bombay the Sabarmati is crossed
on a fine bridge, with a footway for
passengers alongside, and carrying the
rails for both broad and narrow gauges.
From, 4 m., Sabarmati (junc. sta.),
on N. bank of the river of that name,
the narrow gauge continues N. to Delhi
and Agra, whilst the broad gauge turns
W., and passing through a well-culti-
vated country, reaches at
40 m. Viramgam junc. sta., i^ a
walled town. Pop. 20,000. The Man-
sar tank dates from the end of the 11th
century. It is shaped like a shell, and
surrounded by flignts of stone steps ;
round the top of the steps runs a row
of small temples. The inlet is much
ornamented. The neighbourhood
abounds in black buck, grouse, and
all manner of water-fowl.
[From this place a branch line runs
N.W. passing at 17 m. Patri, D.B., a
small walled town with a Citadel ; and,
at 22 m., reaches Eharaghoda, where
there are very extensive government salt-
pans on the edge of the Bnim of Catch.
In the dry season the Runn presents the
appearance of a hard, smooth bed of
dried mud, and may be ridden over
at any place. There is absolutely no
vegetation except on some small islands
which rise above the level of the salt
inundation ; the only living creatures
that inhabit it are some hems of wild
asses, which feed on the lands near its
shores at night, and retreat far into the
desert in the daytime. With the com-
mencement of the S.W. monsoon in
May, the salt water of the Gulf of Cutch
invades the Runn, and later in the
season many rivers from Rajputana
pour fresh water into it. The sea is
now encroaching rapidly on the Runn
at its iunction with the Gulf of Cutch,
and there is reason to suppose that
serious changes of level are taking place.
The centre of the Runn is slightly
higher than the borders, and dries first.
The railway has many sidinf^s extend-
ing into the Runn, to facilitate the
collection of the salt, which is stacked
at the station in very large quantities
under the custody of the Salt Customs
Department. Originally it was con-
sidered necessary to erect expensive roofs
over the salt stacks, but experience has
shown that this can be dispensed with.
The salt is evaporated by the heat
of the sun from brine brought up in
buckets fix)m depths of 15 to 80 ft
The mirage is beautiful in this nei^-
bourhood, and in the winter season the
flights of flamingoes and other birds
are extraordinaruy large. There are
grouse to be had in the neighbourhood.]
80 m. Wadhwan junc. sta. D.B. To
the W. runs the Morvi State Bailway^
the exclusive property of the Horvi
state, constructed on 2\ p^ gauge to
maintain communication with Morvi^
Jetalsar and Bajkot, To the S. the line
IS continued by means of the^Aauno^or
GondcU BaUwayy a portion of the metre-
gauge system, which opens up a laige
number of places in South Eattywar.
These railways are under a central
administration, but are the property of
the states through which they pass.
The Civil Station of Wadhwan^ on
which the rly. sta. is built, is a
plot of land rented by Government in
perpetuity from the Wadhwan state,
for the location of the establishments
necessary for the administration of the
N.E. portion of Eattywar. A small
town nas sprung up close to the rail-
way station.
The only institution of special interest
in the place is the TiMkdaH School^
where tne sons of Otrassias, or land-
owners, are educated when their parents
are unable to afford the heavy cost of
sending them to the Rajhamar or
Princes* College at Bajkot. In many
cases elder brothers are placed at the
Rajkumar College, and the younger at
the Talukdari SchooL
The Provvnce of KaHywar (or Kathi-
awad) which is now entered, exists under
circumstances quite exceptionaL It
consists of 187 separate states, ranging
in extent from considerable tracts of
country, with chiefs enjoving great eze- '
Digitized by VjOOQIC
BOUTB 7. WADHWAN CIl?Y
153
cutive freedom, to mere village lands,
necessarily states only in name. Almost
without exception the capitals of these
states are places of interest, but there
is no space in this work to describe
them.
For purposes of administration the
Province is divided into/our Frants, or
divisions.
The ardnous task of administering
this Province is entrusted to a Political
Agent who resides at Itajkot, and has
assistants distributed through the
conntiy.
Everywhere in Kattywar the travel-
ler will remark long lines of palias,
or memorial stones, peculiar to this
Proyince, on which men are usually
represented as riding on a very large
horse, whilst women have a wheel below
them to indicate that they used a
cairiage.
A woman's arm and hand indicate
here, as in other jMurts of India, a monu-
ment to a lady who committed sati.
Proceeding S. by the Bhaunagar
Gondal Bailwa^, the river is crossed
dose to the station.
At 83 ULWadhwan City sta.i8 reached.
The town wall is of stone and in good
order. Towards the centre, on the N.
wall, is the ancient temple of Baaik
Devi She was a beautiM cirl, bom
in the Juna^adh territory when Sidh
Baja was reigning at Patau, and was
berthed to nim. But Ra Khengar,
who then ruled Junagadh, carried her
off and married her, which caused a
deadly feud between him and Sidh Raja,
whose troops marched to Junagadh.
Ciengar was betrayed by two of his
kinsmen, and was slain by Sidh Raja
snd his fortress taken. The conqueror
vanted to marry Ranik Devi, but she
poformed acUi, and Sidh R^'a raised
this temple to her memory.
The temple bears marks of extreme
old age, the stone beinc much worn and
Dorroded, and all but me tower is gone,
baide is a stone with the effigy in
Nlief of Banik Devi, and a smaller one
^th a representation of Ambaji. N.
|f this temple, and close to the city
nil, is a saU stone dated 1619. Close
0 the Lakhupol Gate is a well with
steps, ascribed to one Madhava, who
lived in 1294 A.D.
The Palace is near the centre of the
town, has four stories, and is 72 ft
high. It stands in a court facing the
entrance, on the right of which is a
building called the Mandwa, where
assemblies take place at marriages.
96 m. Limbdi sta. Chief town of
the cotton-producing state of that name.
Pop. 13,000. A well-cared-for place,
very handsome palace.
126 m. Botad sta. Frontier of the
Bhaunagar state.
152 m. Dhola June sta.(R.) Here the
line turns W. to Dhoraji and Porbandar,
and E. to Bhaunagar, passing at
165 m. a little N. of Son|^ sOc the
residence of the Assistant Political
Agent for the eastern portion of the
Province.
pSxcursion to Palitana and the
Shetnmjee (or Satmnjaya) Hills.
(Arrangements for a conveyance can
be made, by applying to the Dep. Assist.
Polit. Agent at Songad. No puolic con-
veyances can be depended upon.)
Palitana, sOc about 15 m. S. of Songad,
the latter part of the road over a barren
country between low rocky hills, is the
residence of the chief, and is much en-
riched by the crowds of pil^ms who
reside in it during their visit to the
ffoly Mountain, the site of some of the
most famous Jain temples in India.
The distance from Palitana to the
foot of Sainmjaya, or the Holy Moun-
tain, is H m. The road is level, with
a good water supply, and shaded by
trees. The ascent begins with a wide
flight of steps, guarded on either side
by a statue of an elephant. The hill-
side is in many places excessively steep,
and the mode of conveyance is the doli,
a seat or tray 18 in. square, slung from
two poles and carriea by four men.
Few of the higher -class pilgrims are
able to make the ascent on foot, so there
is an ample supply of doUs and bearers.
Satmnjaya or Shatrunjaya hill is
truly a city of temples, for, except a
few tanks, there is nothing else within
the gates, and there^ a cleanliness
Digitized by VjOOQ
154
ROUTE 7. AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
India
withal, about every square and pass-
age, porch and hall, that is itself no
mean source of pleasure. The silence
too is striking. Now and then in the
mornings you hear a bell for a few
seconds, or the beating of a drum for as
short a time, and on holidays chants
from the larger temples meet your ear ;
but generally during the after-part of
the day the only sounds are those of
vast flocks of pigeons that fly about
spasmodically from the roof of one
temple to that of another. Paroquets
and squirrels, doves and ringdoves
abound, and peacocks are occasionally
met with on the outer walls. The top
of the hill consists of two ridges, each
about 350 yds. long, with a valley be-
tween. Each of these ridces, and the
two large enclosures that flu the valley,
are surrounded by massive battlemented
walls fitted for defence. The buildings
on both ridges again are divided into
separate enclosures called tuks, generaDy
containing one principal temple, with
varying numbers of smaller ones. Each
of these enclosures is protected by strong
gates and walls, ana all gates are care-
fully closed at sundown."
Ko attempt is made to describe the
shrines in detail; their general char-
acter is so often repeated that it would
only be possible to do so with the aid
of profuse illustrations. The area en-
closed on the top is small enough for
any one of ordinary activity to see all
over it in the course of a two hours* visit.
There is one gate leading into the
enclosure, but there are 19 gates within,
leading to the 19 chief Pagodas. Not
far from the Eam-pol (pol means gate)
is a resting-place used by persons of dis-
tinction, with a tolerable room sur-
rounded by open arches.
James Fergusson says : —
**The grouping together of these
temples into what may be called * Cities
of Temples,' is a peculiarity which the
Jains practised to a greater extent than
the followers of any other religion in
India. The Buddhists grouped their
stupas and viharas near and around
sacred spots, as at Sanchi, Manikyala,
or in Peshawur, and elsewhere; but
they were scattered, and each was sup-
'>8e(i to have a special meaning, or to
mark some sacred spot. The Hindus
also grouped their temples, as at Bhuvan- ,
eshwar or Benares, m great numbers
together ; but in all cases because, so
far as we know, these were the centres of
a population who believed in the gods
to wnom the temples were dedicated,
and wanted them for the purposes of
their worship. Neither of these re-
ligions, however, possesses such a gronp
of temples, for instance, as that at
Satrun j aya, in Guzerat. It covers a very
large space of ground, and its shnnes
are scattered by hundreds over the sum-
mits of two extensive hills and in the
valley between them. The larger ones
are situated in tuks, or separate enclos-
ures, surrounded b^ high fortified walls ;
the smaller ones Ime the silent streets.
It is a city of the gods, and meant for
them only, and not intended for the
use of mortals.
" All the peculiarities of Jain archi-
tecture are found in a m^e marked
degree at Palitana than at almost any
other known place, and, fortunately for
the student of the style, extending
through all the ages during which it
flourished. Some of the templesareas old
as the 11th century, and they are spread
pretty evenly over all the intervening
time down to the present century."
James Burgess in his report gives the
following general description : —
" At the foot of the ascent there are
some steps with many little canopies
or cells, IJ ft. or 3 ft. square, open
only in front, and each having in its
floor a marble slab carved with the
representation of the soles of two feet
{charan)f very flat ones, and generally
with the toes all of one length. A
little behind, where the ball of the
great toe ought to be, there is a
diamond -shaped mark divided into four
smaller figures by two cross lines, from
the end of one of which a curved line
is drawn to the front of the foot
"The path is paved with rough .
stones all the way up, only interrupted
here and there by regular flights of j
steps. At frequent intervals also ther« I
are rest-houses, more pretty at a dii* |
tance than convenient for actual i»e^^
but stiU deserving of attention. Hi^
up, we come to a small temple of 1
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ROUTE 7. EXCURSION TO VALABHIPUR
156
Hindu monkey god, Hanuman, the
image bedaubed with vermilion in
ultra-barbaric style. At this point the
path bifurcates to the right leading to
the northern peak, and to the left to
the yalley between, and through it to
the southern summit. A little higher
up, on the former route, is the shrine
of Hengar, a Mussulman pw, so that
Hindu and Moslem alike contend for
the representation of their creeds on
this sacxed hill of the Jains.
"On reaching the summit of the
mountain, the view that presents itself
from the top of the walls is magnificent
in extent ; a splendid setting for the
unique picture. To the E. the pros-
pect extends to the Gulf of Cambay
near Gogo and Bhaunagar ; to the N. it
is bounded by the granite range of
Sihor and the Chamardi peak ; to the
N.W. and W. the plain extends as
Eur as the eye can reach. From W.
to E., like a silver ribbon across the
foreground to the S., winds the Satrun-
jaya river, which the eye follows until
it is lost between the Talaja and Kho-
kara Hills in the S.W.]
[Excnrsion to Valabhipur.
The antiquarian who is not pressed
for time may care from Songad to visit
the site of the ancient city of Vala-
bhipur, which is nearly identical with
the modern town of Walah, and is 12 m.
distant by road. The authorities at
Songad will always arrange the journey.
Valabhipur was perhaps as old as Rome,
and was the capital of all this part of
India. The present town (under 5000
inhab.) is the capital of one of the
small Kattywar states. It has been
very much neglected. There are scarcely
any architectural remains at Walah,
but old foundations are discovered, and
sometimes coins, copper plates, mud
seals, beads, and household images have
bc«n found in some abundance. The
ruins can be traced over a large area of
jungle.]
Resuming the journey from Songad
to Bhaunagar,
90 m. Sihor sta. D.6. This was
' ct'OB^ time the capital of this state.
■ Tbe |f|?n, well situated IJ m. S. of
the rly., has some interesting Hindu
Temples.
103 m. Bhaunagar. 9^ The city (of
50,000 inhab., founded 1723) stands
on a tidal creek that runs into the
Gulf of Cambay. The head of the
Gulf above this creek is silting up so
rapidly that it is very difficult to main-
tain the necessary depth of water for
native trading vessels and coasting
steamers. The Bhaunagar state has
from its first connection with the
British Government been administered
by men of intelligence, and the town
will be found a most pleasing sample of
the results of native Indian government
going hand in hand with European
progress. The staple export is cotton.
There are no interesting ruins, but
abundance of very handsome modern
buildings on Indian models, water
works, reservoirs, and gardens ; and at
the port will be seen an intelligent
adoption of modem mechanical im-
provements.
The traveller, if he proposes to visit
Junagadh, Somnath, Porbandar, or
any places in the W., must return to
Bhota June, and change there. There is
nothing to detain him until he reaches
Jetalsar June. sta. (R.) 152 m. from
Wadhwan. This place is the residence
of the Assist. Political Agent for the
S. or Sorath division of the Province
of Kattywar. Here the line branches
(1) S. to Verawal for SomimtK (2) W.
to PorhandaTf p. 162, and (3) N. to
Eajkot, Vankaner and Wadhwan^ p.
165.
(1) Jetalsar to Verawal,
16. m. (from Jetalsar), Junagadh (the
old fort) sta., j^ D.B., W. of the town,
opposite a modem gateway, called the
Eeay Gate; the capital of the state, and
the residence of the Nawab. Pop. 30,000.
Situated as it is under the Giraar and
Datar Hills, it is one of the most pic-
turesque towns in India, while in anti-
quity and historical interest it yields to
tew. The scenery from the hills around
is most pleasing, and the place has
attractions wanting in most ancient
Indian towns, which, as a rale, are situ-
ated in uninteresting plains. There is
a great deal of game in Kattywar, and
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156
BOUTE 7. AHHBBABAI) TO SOHNATH
India
specially in the Oir, the large unculti-
vated tract to the S.E. of Junajgadh ;
but the Gir is very unhealthy in the
early part of the autumn, and again at
the beginning of the rains.
The fortifications of the present town
were all built by the Mohammedans
after the capture of the place by Sultan
Mahmud Bigadah, of Guzerat, about
1472. The Nawab's Palace is a fine
modernised building. In front of it is
a good circle of shops called the Mahubat
Oirde, The Arts College was designed
and built by a local architect, and was
opened by Lord Curzon in Nov. 1900.
The Tombs of the Nawabs are highly
finished buildings. Fergusson says:
''There is a cemetery at Junagadh
where there exists a group of tombs all
erected within this century, some within
the last 20 or 30 years, which exhibit,
more nearly than any others I am ac-
quainted with, the forms towards which
the style was tending. The style is not
without a certain amount of elegance
in detail. The tracery of the windows
is executed with precision and appropri-
ateness." Entering the enclosure by
the N. gate, the tomb of Bahadur Khan
II. is in front on the L, next to it the
tomb of Hamed Khan II., and on its
1. that of Ladii Bu, a lady whose mar-
riage, and the influence she gained,
caused no slight difficulty to this state,
and no little trouble in the Political
Agency. Beside these is the tomb of
Nawab Mohobat Khan, in Saracenic
style, and finely carved. ^ m. beyond
the N. gate of the town is the Sakar
Bagh, a well hdd-out garden that be-
long to the Vazir. There is a two-
stoned villa, surrounded by a moat full
of water. About 50 yds. from the house
is a menagerie, in which are panthers,
deer, etc. In a still finer garden at the
S. of the town, the Sardar Bagh, are
kept a number of lions and lionesses
from the Gir forest. There are no
tigers in the Kattywar peninsula, but
up to the middle of the present century
lions inhabited all the large jungles,
and were shot in the Choteyla Hills E. of
Rajkot. Now the animal is confined to
the Gir. The lion is in no way inferior
to the African species, although the mane
is not so large. The Gir lion is not a man-
eater usuallv, but Col. J. "W. Watson
has heard of one or two well-authenti-
cated instances of his killing men.
The soft sandstone which everywhere
underlies Junagadh is an interesting
study. Formed apparently in very shal-
low water, it shows on all sides compH-
cated lines of stratification. The facility
with which itis worked maybe onereason
why it has been largely excavated into
cave-dwellings in Buddhist times.
The Cayes. — In the N. part of the
town enclosure, near the old telegraph
office, is the group called the Khapra
Khodia, These caves appear to have
been a monastery, and bear the cogniz-
ance of the then ruling race, a winged
griffin or lion. They appear to have
been two or three stories high. They
are, however, excavated in good building
stone, and the modem quarrymen have
been allowed to encroach and injure
them ; the lower ones have never been
systematically cleared out. The most
interesting caves of all are situated in
the Uparkot, about 60 yds. N. of the
great mosque. They are now closed by
an iron gate. They consist of two
stories, the lower chambers being 11
ft. high. Mr. Burgess says: **Few
bases could be found anywhere to excel
in beauty of design and richness of
carving those of the six principal
pillars. " Inside the Waghesh wan Gate,
through which theGimar isapproachedi
are the caves known by the name of
Bavxi Piara^ a comparatively modem
Hindu ascetic who is said to have resided
in them.
The Uparkot^ on the E. side of the
city, used as a jail until 1858, is
now practically deserted. It was the
citadel of the old Hindu princes, and is
probably the spot from whence Junagadh
derives its name. Permission to visit
it must be asked. Without presenting
any very special features to describe, the
Uparkot is one of the most interesting of
old forts. The parapets on the £. , where
the place is commanded by higher
ground, have been raised at least three
times to give cover against the in-
creasinglylongrangeofprojectiles. The
views from the walls are delightful.
Here were quartered the lieutenants of
the great Asoka (250 B.O.), and, later.
d by Google
J
d by Google
1. Wagheshwari Gate.
2. Asoka's Stone.
8. Bridge.
4. Temple of Damodar.
5. ,, „ Savanath.
6. „ ,, Bhavanath.
7. Chadd-ni-wao Well.
8. Wagheshwari Temple.
9. Bhairo-Thumpa.
10. Oaomuki Temple.
11. Amba Deva Temple.
12. Mdliparah Khund.
13. Datdtari.
14. Hdthi pagla Ehund.
15. Sesd wan Temple.
16. Hanmandhara Ehond and Temple.
17. Kamandal Temple.
18. Sakri dmbli.
19. Malbela.
20. Suraj Khund.
31. Sarkharia.
22. Bawaba Madhi.
To face p. 157,
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i
ROUTE 7. JUNAGADH QIRNAR
157
those of the Gupta kings. The entrance
is beyond the town, in the W. wall, and
consists of three gateways, one inside
the other. The fort walls here are from
60 to 70 ft high, forming a massive
duster of buildings. The inner gate-
way, a beautiful specimen of the Hindu
Toran, has been topped by more recent
Mohammedan work, but the general
effect is still good and, wim the
approach cut through the solid rock,
impressive. On the rampart above
the ^te is an inscription of Manda-
lika V. dated 1450. Proceeding 160
yds. to the left, through a grove of
sUaphal (custard apples), you come to
a huge 10 in. -bore caanon of bell-metal,
17 ft longand 4 ft 7 in. round at the
mouth. This gun was brought from
Dio, where it was left by the Turks.
There is an Arabic inscription at the
muzzle, which may be translated : ^ * The
order to make this cannon, to be used
in the service of the Almighty, was
flven by the Sultan of Arabia and
ersia. Sultan Sulaiman, son of Salim
Khan. May his triumph be glorified,
to punish the enemies of the State and
of the Faith, in the capital of E^ypt,
1631." At the breech is inscribed,
^The work of Muhammad, the son of
Hamzah." Another large cannon called
Chudanal, also from Diu, in the southern
portion of the fort, is 18 ft long, and has
« muzzle 14 in. diameter. STear this
is the Jmnma Musjid, evidently
constructed from the materials of a
Hindu temple. Mr. Burgess says it
was built by Mahmud Begadah. One
plain, slim minaret remains standing,
but the mosque is almost a complete
ruin. The ascent to the terraced roof
is by a good staircase outside.
The Tomb of Niiri Shah, close to the
mosoue, is ornamented with fluted
cupolas, and a most peculiar carving
over the door. There are two Wells in
the TJparkot — the Adi Chadi^ said to
have been built in ancient times by
the slave girls of the Chudasama rulers,
is descended by a long flight of steps
(the sides of the descent show the most
reroarkable overlappings and changes
of lie in the strata, for which alone it
is "worth a visit to any one with geo-
logical tastes) ; and the Naughan^ out
to a great depth in the soft rock, and
with a wonderful circular staircase.
There is a fine dharmsala belonging
to the goldsmiths near the Waghesh-
wari Gate.
The mountain Gimar is the great
feature of Junagadh, and the Jain
temples upon it are amongst the most
ancient in the country. It is 3666 ft.
high, and is one of the most remarkable
mountains in India. From the city of
Junagadh only the top of it can be seen,
as it has in front of it lower hills, of
which Jogniya, or Laso Pawadi, 2627
ft., Lakshman Tekri, Bensla, 2290 ft.
high, and Datar, 2779 ft. high, are the
principal. Girnar was anciently called
Kaivata or Ujja^anta, sacred amongst
the Jains to Neminath, the 22d Tirthui-
kar, and doubtless a place of pilgrimage
before the days of Asbka, 260 B.o.
The traveller, in order to reach Gimar,
will passthroughtheWagheshwariQate,
which is close to the TJparkot. At
about 200 yds. from the gate, to the
^rht of the road, is the Temple of
Wacheshwari, which is joined to the
road, by a causeway about 160 yds.
long. In front of it is a modem temple,
three stories high, very ugly, nat-
roofed, and quite plain. Alwut a fur-
long beyond this is a stone bridge, and
just beyond it the famous Asoka Stone.
It is a round boulder of granite, measur-
ing roughly 20 ft. x30 ft., and is
covered witn inscriptions, which prove
on examination to be 14 Edicts of
Asoka (250 b.o.)i Nearlv identical
inscriptions have been found at Dhauli,
near Peshawur, and elsewhere. The
character is Pali.
On leaving Asoka's Stone, cross the
handsome bridge over the Sonarekha,
which here forms a fine sheet of water,
then pass a number of temples, at
first on the 1. bank of the river and
then on the rt., where Jogis go about
entirely naked, to the largest of the
ten^les dedicated to Damodar, a name
of Knshna, from Dam, a rope, because
at this spot his mother in vain at-
tempted to confine him with a rope
when a child. The reservoir at this
1 See We 0/ John fFOww, Jf.JJ.5., by Dr. G.
Smith, for picture and account of the stone ;
or Burgess, Second Archascl. Bepwt.
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158
ROUTE 7. AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
India
place is accounted very sacred. The
path is now through a wooded valley,
with some fine Indian fig trees. Near
a cluster of them is an old shrine called
Bhayanath, a name of Shiva. There
are a number of large monkeys here,
who come, on being called. Unless
well called the Chadd-ni-wao. The
paved way begins just beyond this and
continues for two-thirds of the ascent,
and may be divided into three parts ;
at the end of the first the first rest-
house, Chodia-pa,raba, is reached, 480
ft. above the plain. The second halt-
Temple of Nimnath, Qimar.
the traveller be a veiy good climber,
he will do well to get into a doli, for
which he will pay 3 or 4 rs. according
to tariff. A long ridge runs up from
the W., and culminates in a rugged
scarped rock, on the top of which are
the temples. Close to the Mandir is a
ing-place is Dholi-deri, 1000 ft above
the plain. There the ascent becomes
more difficult, winding under the face
of the precipice to the third rest-house,
1400 ft. up. So far there is nothijag
very trying to any one with an ordin-
arily steady brain. But after that the
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J
ROUTE 7. JUNAGADH — GIRNAR
159
path turns to the right along the edge
of a precipice, and consists of steps cut
in the rock, and so narrow that the
doli grazes the scarp, which rises per-
pendicularly 200 ft. above the travel-
ler. On the right is seen the lofty
mountain of DcUar, covered with low
jungle. At about 1500 ft. there is a
stone dharmsala, and from this there
is a fine view of the rock called
Bhairav-Thampa, which means "the
terrific leap. " It was so called l)ecause
devotees used to cast themselves from
its top, falling 1000 ft or more.
At 2370 ft above Junagadh the gate
of the enclosure known as the Deva
Eota, or Ra Khengar's Palace, is reached.
On entering the gate, the large enclosure
of the temples is on the left, while to
the right is the old granite temple of
Man Sing, Bhoja Rajah of Cutch, and
farther on the much larger one of
Vastupala (see below). Built into the
wall on the left of the entrance is an
inscription in Sanscrit. Some 16 Jain
temples here form a sort of fort on the
ledge at the top of the great cliff, but
still 600 ft. below the summit The
largest temple is that of Neminatha (see
plan, p. 158) standing in a quadrangular
court 195 X 130 ft. It consists of two
halls (with two porches, called by the
Hindus mandapamsX and the slmne,
which contains a large black image of
Neminath, the 22d Tirthankar, with
naassive gold ornaments and jewels.
Bound the shrine is a passage with
many images in white marble. Be-
tween the outer and inner halls are
two shrines. The outer hall has two
small raised platforms paved with slabs
of yellow stone, covered with repre-
sentations of feet in pairs, which repre-
sent the 2452 feet of the first disciples.
On the W. of this is a porch overhang-
ing the perpendicular scarp. On two
of the pillars of the mandapam are in-
scriptions dated 1275, 1281, and 1278,
~4ate8 of restoration, when Burgess
says it was covered with a coating of
chuuam, and " adorned with coats of
whitewash " within. The enclosure is
nearly surrounded inside by 70 cells,
each enshrining a marble image, with
\ covered passage in front of them
^o^deA by a perforated stone screen.
The principal enti-ance was originally
on the E. side of the court, but it is
now closed, and the entrance from the
court, in Ehengar's Palace, is that now
used. There is a passage leading into
a low dark temple, with granite pillars
in lines. Opposite the entrance is a
recess containing two large black im-
ages ; in the back of the recess is a lion
rampant, and over it a crocodile in
bas-relief. Behind these figures is a
room from which is a descent into a
cave, with a larse white marble image,
an object of the most superstitious
venei-ation by the Jains, which the
priests usually try to conceal. It has
a slight hollow in the shoulder, said to
be caused by water dropping from the
ear, whence it was called Amijhera,
"nectar drop." In the N. porch are
inscriptions which state that in Samwat
1215 certain Thakors completed the
shrine, and built the Temple of Ambika.
After leavingthis, there are three temples
to the left. That on the S. side contains
a colossal image of Bishabha Deva,
the 1st Tirthankar, exactly like that
at Satrunjaya, called Bhim-Padam.
On the throne of this image is a
slab of yellow stone carved in 1442,
with figures of the 24 Tirthankars.
Opposite this temple is a modem one
to Panchabai. W. of it is a large
temple called Malakamsi, sacred to
Parshwanath. N. again of this is
another temple of Parshwanath, which
contains a large white marble image
canopied by a cobra, whence it is called
SheshpTvanit **an arrangement not un-
frequently found in the S. but rare in
the N." (Fergusson). It bears a date
= 1803. The last temple to the N. is
Kumarapala's, which has a long open
portico on the W., and appears to have
been destroyed by the Mohammedans,
and restored in 1824 by Hansraia Jetha.
These temples are along the W. face of
the hill, and are all endosed. Outside
to the N. is the Bhima Eunda, a tank
70 ft X 50 ft., in which Hindus bathe.
"Immediately behind the temple of
Neminatha is the triple one erected by
the brothers Tejahpala and Vastupala
(built 1177)." The plan is that of 3
temples joined together. The shrine
has an image of Mallinath, the 19th
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160
ROUTE 7. AHMEDABAD TO SOMNATH
India
Tirtliankar. Farther N. is the temple
of Samprati Raja. This temple is
probably one of the oldest on the hill,
date 1158. Samprati is said to have
ruled at Ujjain in the end of the 3d
cent. B.C., and to have been the son
of Kunala, Asoka's third son. S. of
this, and 200 ft. above the Jain temples,
is the Gawmukha Shrine, near a plenti-
ful spring of water. From it the crest
of the mountain (3380 ft.) is reached by
a steep flight of stairs. Here is an
ancient temple of Amba Mata, which
or attendant of the shrine is seen in
front. To the rt. is a stone platform
surrounding an unusually fine manffo
tree, with a tank just beyond, and tne
shrine of Datar, a building 80 ft bigh
with a fluted cone at top. Here it is
necessary to take off one's shoes. The
shrine and the whole place are very
attractive.
There is a Leper Asylum near the
Datar Temple for 100 lepers of both
sexes, built at the expense of the Vazir
Sahib Bahu-ud-din. H.R.H. Prince
J"^
Temple of Tejahpala and Vastupala, Gimar.
is much resorted to by newly-married
couples of the Brahman caste. The
bride and bridegroom have their clothes
tied together, and attended by their
male and female relations, adore the
goddess and present cocoa-nuts and
other offerings. This pilgrimage is
supposed to procure for the couple a
long continuance of wedded bliss. To
the E., not far off, are the 3 rocky
spires of the Gorakhnath, the Neminath
or Gtird-dattAraya, and the Kalika Peaks.
S.E. of the Verawal Gate of Juna-
gadh is the Sbrine of Jamal Sbah or
Datar. After passing under a low arch
near the city, the house of the Mujawir
Albert Victor laid the foundation-stone
in 1890. Above it, 4 m. in S.E. direc-
tion, is the Datar peak (2779 ft.)
On the summit of the hill is a small
shrine, and a very beautiful view. The
hill is held sacred by Mohammeduis
and Hindus alike, and is supposed to
have a beneficial effect on lepers, who
repair to it in considerable numbers.
61 m. Verawal sta. i^ The nulway
terminus is on the W. side of the city,
close to the walls, and about i m. from
the lighthouse at the landing-place.
This is a very ancient sea-port, and
probably owes its existence to its more
celebrated neighbour Patan SanvtuM
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ROUTE Y. PATAN SOMNATH
161
It rose into notice daring the time of
the Gnzerat saltans, and in Hieir reigns
became, antil superseded by Sarat, the
principal port of embarkation for
Mohammedan pilgrims to Mecca. It
is still a flourishing little seaport In
the Temple Haraad Mata is a celebrated
inscription (1264), recording that a
mosrjne was endowed in that year, and
bearing dates in four different eras.
It was from this inscription that it was
discovered that the Valabhi era com-
menced in 319 A.D., and the Shri Sing
era from 1113 a.d. The river Devka
ifows to the N. of Verawal, and joins
the sea at a place called Dani Baru.
The Jaleshvar Temple, about 2 m.
Red Sea, Persian Gulf, and African
coast. The place is renowned in Hindu
mythology. It was here the Jadavs slew
each other, and here Krishna was shot
by the Bhil. In the 6ir forest, inland
from Patan, is the only place in India
where there are one or two separate
communities of African negroes. Mah-
mud of Ghazni conquered the town in
1025 A.D., and it appears that he left
behind a Mohammedan Governor.
Subsequently the Hindus recovered
their power, but it was again cast down
by Alagh Khan circa 1300 A.D., and
the coast belt or Nagher kingdom con-
quered. From this date Moham-
medan supremacy prevailed throughout
Verawal and Patan.
Stmn^cnta Gettf* .
N.W. from the town, at the mouth on
the right bank, is of great antiquity.
On the S. W. face of Verawal there is. a
modern sea-wall and an unfinished
stone pier, with a lighthouse at the end
of it. A large Custom House has been
built on the sea face, and near it is a
dock established on reclaimed land.
On the sea-shore, nearly 3 m. to the
S.EL , is Patan Somnath, also known as
Prabhas Patan, or Deva Patan, the
Semmab of Marco Polo. The anchor-
a^^es at Verawal and Patan are so bad
th»t it is hard to account for the un-
donbted fact that from the earliest
tim^ they carried on a trade with the
the belt, and from the reign of Muham-
mad Tughlak regular governors were
appointed. Finally, owing to the gal-
lantry and statesmanship of Diwan
Amarji, it was conquered by the Nawab
of Junagadh in whose hands it remains.
About the middle of the 15th cent.
Somnath (with Verawal) had become
the principal port of embarkation for
Mohammedan pilgrims to the cities
of Mecca and Madinah, and this lasted
till it was superseded by Surat.
Though it is eclipsed now as far as
wealth and population are concerned,
by the adjacent port of Verawal, it is
still an important town.
Proceeding from Verawal to Patan by
Digitized by VjOOS M
162
ROUTE 7. AHMED ABAD TO SOMNATH
India
the road, to the rt. is a vast burial-
ground, with thousands of tombs, and
palias. There are also buildings which
well deserve examination after the tra-
veller has seen the city. The Junagadh,
or W. Gate, by which Patau is entered,
is a triple gate, and is clearly of Hindu
architecture. The centre part of the
first division of the gateway is very
ancient, and is shown to be Hindu by
the carving of two elephants on either
side pouring water over Lakshmi ; but
the figure of the goddess is almost
obliterated.
After passing the second gate on the
left, is the W. wall of a mosque of the
time of Mahmud. There is no inscrip-
tion in it, but its antiquity is so crecUted
that the Nawab has assigned the
revenue of three villages for keeping it
in order. After passing the third
portal of the Junagadh Gateway, there
are four stones on the right hand, of
which two have Guzerati, and two San-
scrit inscriptions. Driving on straight
through the bazaar, which is very
narrow, and has quaint old houses on
either side, the Jwmma Musjid is
reached. The entrance is by a porch,
which has been a mandir in front of a
Hindu temple.
The most interesting part of this very
ancient building is, that in each of the
four corners is a carving of two human
figures, with the Bo tree between them.
A low door in the W. side of the porch
leads into the court of the mosque,
which is much ruined ; it has been
deserted for 25 years, and inhabited by
Moslem fishermen, who dry their fish
in it.
To reach the Old Temple of Som-
nath it is necessary to drive through
the bazaar of Patau and turn to the
right. The temple is close to the sea.
Fergusson considers that it was prob-
ably never a large temple, but adds that
the dome of its porch, which measures
33 ft. across, is as large as any we know
of its age. The interior of the porch is
V^ Jiow in its ruins very striking.
From what fragments of its sculptured
oecorationa remain, they must have
^t2i,- ^®** beauty, quite equal to
anythmg we know of thiJ class of their
age. It was, no doubt, like the temple
of Neminath, on Gimar, surrounded bj
an enclosure which would make it a
strong place. Now the temple stands
flan of Temple of Somnath by J. Bui^gess.
alone, stripped even of its marble ; like,
but superior to, the temples at Dabhoi
and liakkundi. There are three en-
trances to the porch, and a corridor
round the central octagonal space,
which was covered by the gi-eat dome,
There are four smaller domes. The
dome in the centre is supported by
eight pillars and eight arches, and no
wood seems to have been used. The
pillar on the right hand, looking from
the E., next but one before reaching
the adytum, has an inscription, which
is all illegible but the date, Samwat
1697 = 1640 A.D. The walls on the
N., S., and "W. sides have each two
handsomely carved niches, in which
there have been idols.
The temple is said to have been first
built of gold by Somraj, then of silver
by Havana, then of wood by Krishna,
and then of stone by Bhimdeva. Thoo^
three times destroyed by the Mohan-
medans, it was nevertheless three tioMt
rebuilt, and so late as 1700 A.D. Jtm
still a plax^e of great sanctity. Bat te
1706 Aurangzib ordered its destra<
Digitized byLjOOQlC
ROUTE 7. PATAN SOMNATH
163
and there seems every reason to believe
that this order was carried out
Sultan Mahmud's celebrated expedi-
tion was in 1025 A.D. ; he seems to have
marched with snch rapidity, by way of
Guzerat, that the Hindu rajas were
unable to collect their forces for its
defence. Thence he seems to have
marched upon Somnath, and after a
sharp fight for two days to have con-
quered both the city and the temple.
Immense spoil was found in the temple,
and after a short stay Mahmud returned
to Ghazni. It was on this occasion
that he is supposed to have carried off
the famous so-called *' Gates of Som-
flith," now in the fort at Agra. The
traveller may at once dismiss from his
miod as a fable that the gates brought
from Ghazni to Agra in Lord £llen-
boiough's time were taken from Som-
m&L They are of Saracenic design,
and are constructed of Himalayan cedar
(seeAgra).^ Elliot says that 10,000 popu-
lated viUai^es were held by the temple as
an endowment, and that 300 musicians
and 500 dancing-girls were attached to
it There were Sso 300 barbers to shave
the heads of the pilgrims.
The eonflnence of the Three rivers,
or Triveni, to the E. of the town, has
been, no doubt, a sacred spot from
times of remote antiquity. To reach
this the traveller will proceed through
theE. gate, called the ifamt, or "small,"
also the Sangam^ or "confluence gate."
It has pilasters on either side, and on
the capitals figures are represented issu-
ing out of the mouths of Makars, a
fabulous crocodile, which in Hindu
mythology is the emblem of the God
of Love. About a J m. E. of the gate,
(Httside it, you come to a pool on the
right hand, called the Kund, and a
small building on the left called the
Adi Tirth, and then to a temple and
the Tirth of Triveni, where people are
always bathing. The stream here is
from 200 to 300 yds. broad, and runs
into the sea. N. of this, about 200
yds. ofi^ is the Suraj Mandir, or temple
to the sun, half broken down by Mah-
Md, standing on high ground, and
woBdrously old and curious. Over the
VThere is a beautiful illustration of them
Tm vtfle'a Uaroo Polo.
door of the adytum are groups of figures,
with a tree between each two. Inside
the adytum is a round red mark for
the sun, not ancient ; and below is a
figure of a goddess, also coloured red.
On the W. and S. outer walls are masses
of carving much worn. At the bottom
there is a frieze of Keshari lions, that
is, lions with elephants' trunks. This
temple is probably of the same age as
that of Somnath. About 250 yds. to
the W. is a vast tomb, quite plain ; and
below, in a sort of quarry, is a subter-
raneous temple, which is called Ahdi
Shah's. The same name is given to
a mosque with six cupolas to the N.,
which has been a Hindu temple.
Returning from this, and re-entering
the Nana Gate, proceed 200 yds. to the
N.W., where is the temple built by
Ahalya Bai, to replace the ancient Som-
nath. Below the temple is another,
reached by descending 22 steps. Tlie
dome of this subterraneous building is
supported by 16 pillars. The temple
itself is 13 ft. sq. It is of no interest
except on account of its builder, Ahalya
Bai
Returning towards Verawal, about \
m. outside the Patau Gate is the Mai
Puri, which in ancient times was a
temple to the sun. The carving of
this building is exquisite, and in better
preservation than that of the temple of
Somnath. In the centre of the build-
ing is an enclosure 6 ft. sq. , in which
Mai Puri, **the Perfect Mother," is
buried. A legend is told about her,
which alleges that she brought about
the siege of Somnath by Mahmud.
The temple or mosque, as the Moslems
have made it, contains a mass of old
Hindu carving, still beautiful though
mutilated. This temple is a perfect
gem, and ought to be visited by every
traveller. About 300 yds. to the E. is
a plain stone enclosure on the right of
the road, in which are the tombs of
J'afar and Muzaffar, quite plain, but
with pillars 3 ft. high at the headstone.
Not far from the Mai Puri is the tomb
of Silah Shah. There is a curious stand
for lamps here carved in stone, in the
shape of a crown. To the S.E., about
50 yds., is the tomb of Mangroli Shah,
which has been restored. Before reach-
164
ROUTE 7. AHMED ABAD TO SOMNATH
India
ing the shrine you pass through the
porch of an ancient Hindu temple.
Not far from this spot is the Bhid
BJianjcm Pagoda on the sea -shore,
locally known as Bhidiyo, very old,
perhaps of the 14th century. It is 60
ft. high, and forms a good mark for
sailors. To the E. of the pagoda is a
clear space, where Englishmen coming
from Rajkot pitch their tents.
Many coasting steamers call at Vera-
wal, and a traveller can go by sea to
Bombay or to Porbandar, Cutch, or
Karachi If he desires to return by
land, he retraces his steps to Jetalsar
June.
(2) Jetalsar to Porbandar,
9 m. Dhoraji, an important com-
mercial town, pop. 16,000.
79 m., Porbandar terminal sta.,
D.B., E. of the town, the capital of the
state of that name, and a place of some
interest. It is identified with the ancient
city of Sudtopuri, known to readers of
the Bhagavata, Near this is an old
temple of Sudtoa. The line is con-
tinued for goods traffic along the shore
to the creek W. of the town, where it ter-
minates in a wharf. Here the traveller
has reached a very old-world corner,
not recomnjended to visitors in a hurry,
but very interesting to those who have
leisure, or to sportsmen. The coasting
steamers between Bombay and Kar-
achi touch at Porbandar.
[The places of interest in the neigh-
bourhood are —
{a) Shrinagar, 9 m. N.W. of Porban-
dar, believed to have been the first
capital of the Jethwa Rajputs. There
are remains of an ancient temple of
the sun.
(h) Mianiy a very ancient seaport
18 m. N.W. of Porbandar. To the
extreme N.W. in the district of
Okhamandal, directly under the Gaek-
war of Baroda are some of the most
sacred Hindu Temples in India, e.g.
at that time by the British Govern-
ment, still cling to their former tradi-
tions by which each man believes that
he is a prince in his own right.
(c) CAaya, a village 2 m. S.E. of
Porbandar, was once the capital. The
old palace is still there.
(d) BiUshwa/r, 8 m. N. of Ranawao
sta., a small village E. of the Barda
Hills. There is here a fine temple of
considerable antiquity, and in good
preservation. .
(e) GhumZi or BhumU, is about 12 m.
N. of Bileshwar, or 24 m. from Por-
bandar by the road passing W. of the
Barda Hills. This place is now abso-
lutely ruined and deserted ; it was the
capital of the Jethwaswhen at the zenith
of their power. It lies in a gorge of the
Barda Hills ; the ruins are of the 1 1th or
12th century. The most interesting
remains are the Lakhota, the Ganesh
Dehra, the Bampol, the Jeta Wao, and
ut i/iie piaue were a wariiKe briue ui
Rajputs, called ** WTuigire" who were
uotorious pirates up to the early part
af the 19th century, and, though reduced
the group of temples near the Son
Kansari Tank, and some ruins on the
summit of the Abapura Hill. It was
at one time a large flourishing city. It
is about 4 m. S. of Bhanwar, a fort be-
longing to tiie Jam of Nawanagar.*
40 m. S.E. from Porbandar, at Mad-
hayapur, Krishna is said to have been
married. There is an important temple
dedicated to him there.]
(3) JetaZsar to Rajkot, Vankaner and
Wadhwan,
23 m. Oondal is the capital of the
state of that name, and the residence
of the chief. It is a cheerful, well-
cared-for town, with many handsome
temples. The public offices are situated
outside the town on open sites sur-
rounded by ^rdens. The courtyard
of the palace is very handsome.
46 m. Bajkot sta.,3^ a civil and
military station, the residence of the
Political Agent, and the headquarters
of the administration.
The most important public work in
Rajkot is the Kaisar-i-Hind Bridge
over the Aji river, built by Mr. S. R.
Booth, whose name is connected wiA
nearly every important modem boil<l-
ing in the Province. The total co*
of the bridge was 117,500 rs., of whiA
1 Ghumli is fllustrated in Burgeas's 5« "*
Arehceol. JUp. ^^ '
'dby
Googk
BOtJTB 8. &BWARI TO FBROZEPUR
165
the Oliief of Bhaunagar paid all but
7500 rs. The munificent donor of this
bridge was educated at the Rajkumar
College, on which he bestowed 100,000
rs. to build a wing and a residence
for the principal, and further contri-
buted 50,000 rs. to the Endowment
Fund.
The Hajkumar College deserves a
visit, as the place where the young
princes of Kattywar are educated. It
was opened in 1870. On the ground
floor is a fine hall, which gives access to
the class-rooms. Some good portraits
hang on the walls. Along both fronts
is a massive verandah, and over the E.
entrance a rectangular tower 55 ft.
bigh. The entrance is on the W., and
is flanked by two circular towers. The
N. and S. wings contain 32 suites of
bedrooms and sitting-rooms, bath-
rooms and lavatories. To the W. of
the J^. wing is a chemical laboratory,
and on the opposite side a ^/mnasium
and racquet-court. N. of the labora-
tory are extensive stables. The young
princes, besides playing all manly
gwnes, are drilled as a troop of cavalry.
W. of the quadrangle are the houses of
the Principal and vice-principal, with
extensive gardens. S. of the buildings
is the cricket-field of 19 acres. The
college was founded by Col. Keatinge.
The High School was opened in Janu-
ary 1875. It cost 70,000 rs., which were
given by the Nawab of Junagadh. In
the centre is a fine hall.
N.E. of Rajkot are the Jubilee Water
WctIcs^ which are for the supply of the
town.
A branch line runs to (54 m.) Nawa-
^iogar or Jamnagar, capital of the
state of that name, whence Maridvi
can be reached by native craft.
Small steamers occasionallyply between
Beoi, near Nawanagar, and Bombay.
The best way to reach Mandvi would
be by steamer direct from Bombay.
Steamers call about twice a week.
From Bajkot the Morvi State Bail-
ww (a narrow-gauge (25) line) runs
'BX to Wadhwan, via VaaJcaner junc.
rta. (25 m.) This is the capital of a
email state and the residence of the
chiel The country around is undulat-
ing, rising into hills W. and S. of the
town. From Vankaner the line runs E.
to (51 m.) Wadhwan, and (91 m.) Vir-
amgam (see p. 162). From this point
a line runs to Mehsana (see p. 118) for
Ajmere, Delhi» etc.
ROUTE 8
ReWAKI to FBKOZBPrE
Rewari junc. sta. is 52 m. S.W. of
Delhi, described in Rte. 6. (p. 131).
52 m. Bhewani sta., with 86,000
people, chiefly Hindus.
74 m. Hansi sta., D.B., a modem town
of 14,000 inhabitents, lies on the W.
Jumna Canal. It is said to have been
founded by Anangpal Tuar, Kinc of
Delhi, and was long the capitw of
Hariana. There are ruins of an ancient
Citadel and some remains of gateways,
and a high brick wall, with bastions
and loop-holes. This old town has no
connection with the new, which, like
many others in this district, owes its
origin to the establishment of a secure
British rule, and the opening up of
the country by railways. The canal
which flows by it is fringed with hand-
some trees. In 1788 it was desolated
by famine, but in 1795 the famous
sailor adventurer George Thomas fixed
his headquarters at Hansi, which
forthwith began to revive. Col.
Skinner, C.B., settled here in 1829,
In 1802 British rule was established,
and a cantonment was fixed here in
which a considerable force, chiefly
of local levies, was stationed. In
1857 these troops mutinied, murdered
all the Europeans they could lay hands
upon, and plundered the country
When peace was restored the canton-
ment was abandoned. At Tosham,
23 m. S.W., are some ancient inscrip-
tions. They are cut in the rock half
the way up, as is a tank which is
much visited by pilgrims, who come
Digitized by VjOOQIC
166
ROUTE 8. REWA.RI TO FBROZEPUR
India
from great distances to the yearly fair
there.
89 m. Hissar sta, (R.), D.B. Pop.
16,000. The IV. Jumna Canal maidehy
the Emperor Feroz Shah crosses from E.
to W. In 1826 it was restored by the
British. In this place as well as in
Hansi the local levies revolted during
the Mutiny of 1867, and murdered
14 Christians, to whom a monument
is erected beside the little church,
but before Delhi was taken, a body
of Sikh levies, aided by contingents
from Patiala and Bickanur, under
Greneral Van Cortlandt, utterly routed
them.
As at Hansi, so here the modern
town owes its present prosperity to a
settled rule and to the introduction of
railways. Like many other colonies, it
has been formed at the foot of an old
ruined town, which lies to the S. of
it. It was founded in 1354 a.d. by
the Emperor Feroz Shah, whose favour-
ite residence it became. It is the
centre of mounds and architectural
remains, havine lain on the main
track from Mo(3tan to Delhi in pre-
Mussalman times. At Hissar tnere
is a Government cattle - farm (Bir),
managed by a European superin-
tendent, and attached to it is an estate
of 43,287 acres for pasturage.
The District of Hissar borders on the
Rajputana Desert, and is itself little
better than a waste, scattered over with
low bushes. The water-supply is in-
adequate, the average rainfall being
only 16 in. The chief stream is the
Ghuggar^ which, with scant verdure
alon^ its banks, winds through the
district like a green riband. The Hissar
branch of the "Western Jumna Canal
passes through a part of the district.
140 m. Sirsa sta. Pop. 16,000.
The town and fort are supposed to have
been founded by one Raja Saras, about
the middle of the 6th century. A
Muslim historian mentions it as Sarsnti.
A great cattle -fair is held here in
August and September, at which 150,000
head of cattle are exposed for sale.
. 187 m. Batinda iunc. sta. (1400
inhab.) From this place lines run E.
to Patiala, Rajpura, and UmbaUa, and
W. to Bahawalpur, Hydrabad and
Karachi. There is a very high pictur-
esque fort seen well from the railway,
but the modem town contains nothing
of special interest. It was brought into
existence by the British shortly before
the Mutiny.
213 m. Kot-Kapora junc. sta. (B.)
From here a branch line of 50 m. runs
W. to Fazilka on the Sutlej river.
241 m. Ferozepur sta. (R.), D.B.
Pop. 40,000. There is a fort and a
military cantonment 2 m. to the S.
The place was founded in the time of
Feroz Shah, Emperor of Delhi, 1351-87
A.D. At the time of occupation by the
British it was in a declining state, but
through the exertions of Sir Henry
Lawrence and his successors it has
increased to its present importance.
There is a large commerce and a cotton-
press. The main streets are wide and
well paved, while a circular road which
girdles the wall is lined by the gardens
of wealthy residents.
The Fortj which contains the prin-
cipal arsenal in the Panjab, was rebuilt
in 1858, and greatly strengthened in
1887. The railway and the trunk road
to Lahore separate it and the town
from the Cantonment.
The Memorial Churchy in honour of
those who fell in the Sutlej campaign
of 1845-46, was destroyed in the
Mutiny, but has since been restcH^.
In the cemetery lie many dis-
tinffuished soldiers, amongst them
Major George Broadfoot, C.B., Gover
nor-Generals Agent, N.W. Frontier,
who fell at Ferozeshah in 1845, and
Generals Sale and Dick.
On the 16th of December 1845 the
Sikhs invaded the district, but, after
desperate fighting, were repulsed. Since
then peace has prevailed, except during
the Mutiny of 1867. In May of that
year one of the two Sepoy regiments
stationed at Ferozepur revolted, and, in
spite of a British regiment and some
English artillery, plundered and de-
stroyed the Cantonment.
The three great battlefields of the First
Sikh War can best be visited from
this point. Ferozeshah, where the battk
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROtJTB 9. JEtPORE TO AGRA
167
Wis fought on 2l8t and 22d December
1845, is distant 13 m. in a S.E. direction,
and Moodki is 10 m. beyond it in a
straight line. The fight at the latter
place was on the 18th December 1846.
Sobraon was the scene of a great battle
on lOth February 1846. It is 24 m.
'distant from Ferozepur in an N.E.
direction.^
64 m. from Ferozepur Lahore sta.
(seep. 199.)
ROUTE 9
Jeypore to Agra
From Jeypore to Bandikni junc.
sta. (R.), 56 m. (see p. 130).
116 m. Bhurtpur or Bharatpur sta.,
D.B.jtheresidenoe of the Maharajachief
of the Jat state (67,000 inhab.) The
mlmg family is descended from a Jat
Zsmindar named Churaman, who har-
aaaedtherear of Auranezib's army during
his expedition to the Deccan. He was
sncceeded by his brother and after him
by his nephew, Suraj Mall, who fixed
Ms cajatal at Bhurtpur, and subse-
quently (1760) drove out the Maratha
gOTemor from Agra, and made it his
own residence.
In 1765 the Jats were repulsed before
Delhi and driven out of Agra.
In 1782 Sindia seized Bhurtpur
aad the territory ; however, he restored
U districts to them, and when he got
ioto difficulties at Lalkot he made an
alliance with the Jat chief Ranjit Sin-
dia; jmd the Jats were defeated by
Ghnlam Kadir at Fatehpur-Sikri, and
wwe driven back on Bhurtpur, but
being reinforced at the end of the same
year, in 1788, they raised the blockade
of Agra, and Sindia recovered it. In
1803 the British Government made a
^ Bee Tke Sikhs and the Sikh, Wan by
' Gougfa, V.C., and A. D. Innes.
treaty with Ranjit, who joined General
Lake at Agra with 6000 horse, and re-
ceived territory in return. But Ranjit
intrigued with Jaswant Rao Holkar.
Then followed the siege of Bhurtpur
by Lake, who was repmsed with a loss
of 3000 men. Ranjit then made over-
tures for peace, which were accepted on
the 4th of May 1806. Troubles a^in
breaking out regarding the succession,
Bhui-tpur was again besieged, and on
the 18th of January 1826, after a siege
of six weeks, the place was stormed by
Gen. Lord Combermere. The loss of
the besieged was estimated at 6000 men
killed and wounded. The British had
103 killed, and 477 wounded and
missing.
The Walled City of Bhurtpur is an
irregular oblong, lying N.E. and S.W.
The Inner Fort is contained in the N. £.
half of the outer fort. Three palaces
run right across the centre of the inner
fort from K to W., that to the K being
the Raja's Palace. Next is an old
palace built by Badan Sing. To the
W. is a palace which is generally styled
the Eamara ; it ia furnished in a semi-
European style.
There are only two gates to the inner
fort, the Chau Burj Gate on the S., and
the Asaldati on the N. The bastion
at the N. W. comer of the inner fort is
called the Joioahar Burj^ and is worth
ascending for the view. N. of the
Kamara ralace is the Court of Justice,
the Jewel Office, and the Jail. On the
road between the Chau Burj Gate of
the inner fort and the Anah Gate of
the outer fort are the Ganga ki Mandir,
a market-place, the new mosque, and
the Lakhsnmanji temple.
133 m. Achnera junc. sta. (R.)
This is the junction of a line of railway
passing through Muttra to Bindraban
and to Hathras on the East Indian Rail-
way. Also to Farakhabad, Fatehgarh,
and Cawnpore. As, however, the
journey from Agra to Cawnpore can be
made more conveniently by the East
Indian Railway, this route will not be
described in detail. (For Muttra, Bin-
draban, and Dig see Rte. 10.) Fateh-
pur-Sikri (see below) is 10 m. S.W.
from Achnera by a direct track, and
Digitized by VjOOQ
168
ROUTB 9. JETPORE TO AGRA
nearly 13 m. via Kiraoli and the Agra
road.
149 m. AGBA Fort Bta.3«c (R.),
D.B. where travellers alight for the
hotels. It is W. of the Fort, lust
outside the Delhi Grate, and is usea by
all the lines running into Agra. The
cantonment sta., junc of the Indian
Midland Rly. to Gwalior and Jhansi, is
2 m. S. of the Fort sta. About 1 m. up
the river is the Pontoon Bridge which
leads from the city to the old East
Indian Railway station, now used for
goods only.
This is the second city in size and
importance of the N.W. Provinces,
and has a pop. of 165,000. It is 841
m. distant from Calcutta by rail, and
139 m. from Delhi. It stands on the
W. or right bank of the Jumna, here
crossed by a Railway Bridge of 1 6 spans.
Itinerary.
Though a week might veiy pleasantly
be spent in visiting the sights in and
around Agra, they can be seen in
shorter time, and for those persons who
have not many days at their disposal
the following Itinerary may be of ser-
vice : —
Ist Day, Morning. — Fort and Palace.
Afternoon. — Drive to the Jumma Mus-
jid and on to the T^j.
2d Day, Morning. — Drive to Sikan-
darah. AfUmoom. — To Itimadud-
daulah, and Chini ka Roza*
Most people will like to visit some of
the places more than once. A full day, or
better still, 24 hours should be devoted
to the excursion to Fatehpur-Sikri.
The old Native City covered about
11 sq. m., half of which area is still
inhabited. It is clean and has a good
bazaar. The chief Articles of Native
Manufacture are gold and silver em-
broidery, carving in soapstone, and
imitation of the old inlay work {mdra
dwra) on white marble.
ftT«
1
The Cantonment and Civil Static!,^
lie to the S. and S. W. of the Fort, anf-
E. of them on the river bank is tl^
famous Tig. ^-5
History. — Nothing certain is know
of Agra before the Monammedan periol
The house of Lodi was the first Me
hammedan dynasty which chose ^g£
for an occasional residence. Befon[
their time Agra was a district of Bianiu^
Sikandar bin Bahlol Lodi died at Agm'
in 1515 A.D., but was buiied at DemlL
Sikandar Lodi built the Barahduir
Palace, near Sikandarah, which subniik
received its name from him. The Lodi
Khan ka Tila, or Lodi's Mound, is noif
built over with modem houses ; it is said
to be the site of the palace of the Lodis,
called Badalgarh. Babar is said to ha'
had a garden-palace on the E. bank
the Jumna, nearly opposite the'Taj, and
there is a mosque near the spot, with -^
inscription which shows that it i
built by Babar's son Humayun, in 1580
A.D.
On the Agra side of the river, netr
the Barracks, there are the remains of
an ancient garden. Mr. Carlleyle thinki
it was the place where Akbar encamped
when he first came to Agra. In it ii
the shrine of Kamal Khan, 40 ft. loo^
and rectangular. It has red sandstone
pillars with square shafts and flinds
bracket capitals. Broad eaves project
from above the entablatures, and are
supported by beautiful open-work
brackets of a thoroughly Hindu char-
acter. The great w^ is at the btck
of Kamal Ehan's shrine ; it is 220 ft
in circumference, with a 16-sided ex-
terior, each side measuring 13 ft 9 in.:
at it 52 people could draw water at once.
From such works it appears that Am
was the seat of government under
Babar and Humayun, though after
Humayun's restoration he resided
frequently at Delhi, and died and was
buned there. Agra town was probably
then on the bank of the Jumna. Akbar
removed from Fatehpur-Sikri to kffi
about 1568. The only buildings that
can now be attributed to Akbi^ him*
self are the walls, the Magazine to
the S. of the Water Gate, on»
Akbar's audience - hall, and tlie iw
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BOUTB 9. AGRA
169
|Mlace in the fort He died at Agra
m 1605. Jehangir left Agra in 1618,
and neyer returned. Sh&ii Jehan re-
sided at Agra from 1632 to 1637, and
built the Fort and Palace and the
I Taj. He was deposed by his son Aurang-
zeb in 1658, but lived as a State prisoner
seven years longer at Agra. Aurang-
zeb removed the seat of government
permanently to Delhi. In 1764 Agra was
taken by Suraj Mall, of Bhurtpur and
Sumroo, with an army of Jats, who did
much damage to the town. In 1 7 70 the
Marathas captured it, and were expelled
byNiyaf Khaninl774. In 1784 Mu-
hammad Beg was Governor of Agra,
and was besieged by Mahadaji Sindia,
who took it in 1784, and.the Marathas
held it till it was tiQcen by Lord Lake,
17th October 1803. Since then it has
been a British possession. From 1835-
1358 the seat of government of the
N.W. Provinces was removed to Agra
from Allahabad.
On the 30th May 1857 two companies
of the 40th and 67 th N.I., who had
been sent to Muttra to bring the
treasure there into A^a, mutinied and
marched off to Delhi. Next morning
their comrades were ordered to pile
amis, which they did, and most of
them went to their homea On the 4th
the Kotah contingent mutinied, and
went off to join the Neemuch mutineers,
consisting of a strong brigade of all
arms. Their camp was 2 m. from the
Am cantonment, at Suchata. On
5uL July, Brigadier Polwhele moved
oat with 816 men to attack them.
The battle began with artillery, but
the enemy were so well posted, sheltered
by low trees and wails and natural
earthworks, that the British fired into
them with little damage. At 4 p.m.
the British ammunition was expended ;
then Col. Riddell advanced with the
English soldiers, and captured the
village of Shahganj, but with such
heavy loss that they were unable to
hold their ground, and were obliged
to retreat into the Fort of Agra. The
rebels burnt the cantonments, murdered
all Europeans who were found out-
side the Forty and then marched to
Delhi.
There were now 6000 men, women,
and children, of whom only 1500
were Hindus and Mohammedans, shut
up in the Fort. Among these were
nuns from the banks of the Garonne
and the Loire, priests from Sicily and
Rome, missionaries from Ohio and
Basle, mixed with rope-dancers from
Paris and pedlars from America.
The fort was put in a thorough state
of defence. Soon after Brigadier Pol-
whele was superseded, and CoL Cotton
took his place. On the 20th of August
he sent out his Brig. -Major Mont-
gomery with a small column, and on
the 24th Montgomery defeated the
rebels at Aligarh, and took the place.
On the 9th September Mr. Colvin,
Lieut. -Governor of N.W. Provinces,
died. When Delhi was captured by
the British in September, the fugitive
rebels, together with those of Central
India, advanced, on 6th October, against
Agra. MeantimeCoL Greathed's colunm
from Delhi entered the city without
their knowledge, and when they, un-
suspicious of nis presence, attacked
the place, they were completely routed
and dispersed. Agra was thus relieved
from all danger.
The Taj Mahal should be seen more
than once. The best time for a iirst
visit is late in the afternoon. A good
road leads to it, made in the famine
of 1838. It stands on the brink of
the Jumna, a little more than 1 m.
K of the Fort. The building is pro-
perly named Taj bibi ke Roza, or
•*The Crown Lady's Tomb." The
Taj with its surroundings is a spot of
unequalled beauty. The heroic size,
the wonderful contrast of colours in the
materials employed, the setting of noble
trees, sweet shrubs, and clear water,
form a combination that we seek in
vain elsewhere. This mausoleum was
commenced in 1040 A.H., or 1630 A.D.,
by the Emperor Shah Jehan, as a tomb
for his favourite queen, Aijmand Banu,
entitled Mumtaz Mahal, lit. the
** Chosen of the Palace," or more freely,
"Pride of the Palace." She was the
daughter of Asaf Khan, brother of
Nurjehan, the famous empress-wife of
Jehangir. Their father was Mirza
Ghiyas, a Persian, who came from
Digitized by VjOOQIC
170
ROUTE 9. JEtPORE TO AGRA
India
Teheran to seek his fortune in India,
and rose to power under the title of
Itimadu 'd-daulah. His tomb is de-
scribed below. Mumtaz - i - Mahal
married Shah Jehan in 1616 a.d., had
by him seven children, and died in child-
bed of the eighth in 1629, at Burhanpur,
in the Deccan. Her body was brought
to Agra, and laid in the garden where
the Taj stands untU the mausoleum
was built. The Taj cost, according to
some accounts, 18,465,186 rs., and,
according to other accounts, 31,748,026
rs. It took upwards of seventeen years
to build, and much of the materials and
labour remained unpaid for. According
to Shah Jehan's own memoirs, the
masons received 30 lakhs. There
were originally two silver doors at the
entrance, but these were taken away
and melted by Sun^ Mall and his Jats.
It is uncertain who was the principal
architect, but Austin de Bordeaux was
then in the Emperor's service. He was
buried at Agra, and it is probable that
he took part in the decoration, and
especially in the inlaid work, of the
mausoleum.
The approach to the Tig is by the
Taj Gfanj GcUe, which opens into an
outer court 880 ft long and 440 ft.
wide, in which (1. ) is the Great Gate-
way of the garden -court, which Mr.
Fergusson calls "a worthy pendant to
the Taj itself." It is indeed a superb
gateway, of red sandstone, inlaid with
ornaments and inscriptions from the
Koran, in white marble, and surmounted
by 26 white marble cupolas. Before
passing under the ^teway, observe the
noble caravanserai outside, and an
equally fine building on the other side.
Bayard Taylor says : ** Whatever may
be the visitor's impatience, he cannot
help pausing to notice the fine propor-
tions of these structures, and the rich
and massive style of their construction."
They aie not only beautiful, but they
increase the glories of the mausoleum
itself, by the contrast of their somewhat
stem red sandstone with the soft and
pearl-like white marble of which it is
built
Having passed the gatewav, the
visitor finds himself in a beautiful gar-
den. In the centre is a channel of
water, which runs the whole length of
the garden, and has 23 fountains in its
course. The beds of the garden are
filled with the choicest shrubs and
cypress trees, equal in size and beauty
to those of Mazandamn. It is now
that the mausoleum presents itself to
the gaze in all its glory. It stands in
the centre of a platform, faced witii
white marble, exactly 313 ft sq. and
18 ft. high, with a white minaret at
each comer 133 ft high. It is asq.
of 186 ft with the comers cut off
to the extent of 3^ ft The principal
dome is 58 ft. in diameter, and 80 ft.
in height
The Tai was repaired before the Prince
of Wales s vi^t. The dome is brick
veneered with marble, and all the slabs
with which it is faced were examined,
and repointed where necessary. The
marble was damaged chiefly by the
swelling of the iron clamps during
oxidation.
In every angle of the mausoleum is
a small domic^ apartment, two stories
high, and these are connected by
various passages and halls. Under the
centre of the dome, enclosed by *'a
trellis-work screen of white marble,
a <^f (Toeuvre of elegance in Indian
art," are the tombs of Mumtaz -i-Mahal
and Shah Jehan. "These, however,
as is usual in Indian sepulchres, are
not the trae tombs— the bodies rest in
a vault, level with the surface of the
ground beneath plainer tombstones
placed exactly beneath those in t^e
hall above." In the apartment above,
where the show tombs are, " the light,"
says Mr. Fergusson, "is admitted only
through double screens of white marble
trellis-work of the most exquisite de-
sign, one on the outer and one on the
inner face of the walls. In our climate
this would produce nearly complete
darkness ; but in India, and in a build-
ing wholly composed of white marble,
this was re(juired to temper the glare
that otherwise would have been intoler-
abla. As it is, no words can express
the chastened beauty of that central
chamber, seen in the soft gloom of the
subdued light that reaches it through
the distant and half- closed openings
that surround it When used as a
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Section and Flan of the Taj Mahal.
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1. Northern Tower.
2. Descent to Water Gate.
3. NaginahMu^id and ladies'priTate Bazaar.
4. Small Oonrta and ruins of Baths.
6. Open Terrace with Diwan-i-Ehas on S.slde.
6. Recess where the Emperor's Throne
stood.
7. Diwan-i-'Am (Hall of Public Audience).
8. Machchi Bhawan.
9. Mr Golvin's Qrave.
10. The Marble Baths of the Princesses.
11. The Anguri Bagb (Grape Gao^en).
12. Saman Buij (Jasmine Tower) (at }j
angle is an outlet by secret pusageli
13. Ehas Mahal.
14. Shish Mahal (Mirror Palace).
15. Well.
16. Palace of Jebangir (or Akbar).
17. Tower. At the base is an entrance t
a secret passage.
18. Incline firom Ummer Sing's Gate.
19. Ruins of Palace of Akbar.
20. Blephant Gate.
21. Court of Ummer Sing's Gate.
To face V' ITl.
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ROUTE 9. AGRA
171
Barahdari, or plfeasure-pallsuje, it must
ilvays have been the coolest and the
loFcfiest of garden retreats, and now
that it is sacred to the dead, it is the
most graceful and the most impressive
fi! sepulchres in the world. This build-
ing too is an exquisite example of that
system of inlaying with precious stones
which became the great characteristic
of the style of the Moguls after the
death of Akbar. All the spandrils of
the Taj, all the angles and more im-
portant details, are heightened by being
inlaid with precious stones. These are
combined in wreaths, scrolls, and frets
as exquisite in design as beautiful in
colour. They form the most beautiful
and precious style of ornament ever
adopted in architecture. Though of
course not to be compared with the
beauty of Greek ornament, it certainly
stands first among the purely decorative
forms of architectural design. This
mode of ornamentation is lavishly be-
stowed on the tombs themselves and
the screen that surrounds them.
The judgment with which this style
of ornament is apportioned to the
various parts is almost as remarkable
as the ornament itself, and conveys a
Wgh idea of the taste and skill of the
hidian architects of the age" (see
HisLo/Arch.)
The delicately sculptured ornamenta-
tion, in low relief, to be found in all
prts of the building, is in its way as
Wtiful as the pietra dura work
itself.
. There are two wings to the mauso-
leum, one of which is a mosque. Any-
where else they would be considered
important buildings. There are three
inscriptions: 1046 a.h. =1636 A.D.,
1048 A.H,=1638 A.D., and 1057 a.h.
= 1647 A.D. Mr. Keene, who has given
an excellent account of the Taj, thinks
that " the inscriptions show the order
in which the various parts of the build-
ing were completed. Such then is
this "poem in marble," whose beauty
has been faintly shadowed out. It
should be seen if possible by moon-
light, as well as by day. The S. face,
which looks upon the garden, is per-
haps the most beautiful, but the N.
front which rises above the Jumna,
derives an additional charm from the
broad waters which roll past it.
The Fort. — Most of the magnifi-
cent Mogul buildings which render
Agra so interesting in the eye of the
traveller are situated within the Fort.
They justify the remark of Bishop Heber
that " the Moguls designed like Titans
and finished like jewellers." The Fort
stands on the right bank of the Jumna.
The walls and flanking defences are of
red sandstone, and have an imposing
appearance, being nearly 70 ft. high.
The ditch is 30 ft. wide and 35 ft. deep.
The water gate on the E. is closed, but
there are still 2 entrances — the Ummer
Sing gate on the S., the Delhi Gate
on the W. Within it, and approached
by a somewhat steep slope, is another
gateway called the Hathiya Darwazah
"Elephant Gate," or Inner Delhi Gate.
There used to be two stone elephants
here with figures of Patta and Jaimall,
two famous Rajput champions ; they
were removed, but the marks where their
feet were fixed may still be traced on
the platforms on either side of the arch-
way. There are here two octagonal
towers of red sandstone, relieved with
designs in white plaster: the passage
between these is covered by a dome.
Following the road, the traveller will
then pass the Mini Bazaar, now barrack
premises, and reach
The Moti Musjid, the "Pearl
Mosque," Fergusson describes as "one
of the purest and most elegant build-
ings of its class to be found any-
where." It was commenced 1056 A. H.
= 1648 A.D., and finished 1063 a.h.=
1655 A.D., and is said to have cost
300,000 rs. It was built by Shah
Jehan on ground sloping from W. to E.
The exterior is faced with slabs of red
sandstone, but within with marble —
white, blue, and gi*ay veined. The
entrance gateway of red sandstone,
which is very fine, makes a trihedral
projection from the centre of the E.
face of the mosque, and is approached
by a double staircase. ** The moment
you enter, the effect of its courtyard is
surpassingly beautiful."
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172
ROUTE 9, JEYl'ORB TO AGRA
India
In the centre there is a marble tank,
37 ft. 7 in. sq., for ablutions, and be-
tween it and the S.E. inner comer of
the mosque there is an ancient sun-
Moti Musjid.
dial, consisting of an octagonal marble
pillar 4 ft. high, with no gnomon, but
simply two crossed lines and an arc. A
marole cloister runs round the E., N.,
and S. sides of the court, interrupted
by archways, of which those in the N.
and S. sides are closed. The mosque
proper consists of 3 aisles of 7 bays
opening on to the courtyard, and is
surmounted by 3 domes. On the en-
tablature over the front row of support-
ing pillars, i.e. on the E. face, there is
an inscription running the whole lentfth,
the letters being of black marble inlaid
into the white. The inscription says
that the mosque may be likened to a
precious pearl, for no other mosque is
lined throughout with marble like this.
Narrow flights of steps lead to the top
of the gateway and to the roof of the
mosque, from which there is a fine view.
During the Mutiny this mosque was
used as an hospital.
Turning rt. from the Moti Mosque,
the grand Armoury Square, the Place du
Carrousel of Agra, with the Diwan-i-
*Am on the left, is entered. There are
ranges of cannons here and large
mortars, and amongst them the tomb
of Mr. Colvin. Here is also the ffavz
of Jehangir, an enormous monolithic
cistei-n of light -coloured porphyry or
close-grained granite ; externally it is
nearly 5 ft. high, and internally 4 ft.
deep. It is 8 ft. in diameter at top.
It originally stood in Jehangir's palace.
Some have thought the Diwan-i-'Am
was built bv Akbar, others by; Jehangir,
but accordmg to Carlleyle it was built
by Shah Jehan, and was his public Hall
of Audience. This building is 201 ft.
long from N. to S. , and consists of 8
aisles of 9 bays open on 3 sides. The
roof is supported by graceful columns
of red sandstone, painted white and
gold on the occasion of the Prince of
Wales's visit. Along its back wall are
grilles, through which fair faces could
watch what was going forward in the
hall below, and in its centre is a raised
alcove of white marble richly decorated
with pietra dura work and low reliefs,
which bear evident traces of Italian
design. Here travellers describe Au-
rangzib sitting to watch the administra-
tion of justice in the hall below.
Ascend now some stairs at the back
of the place where the Emperor sat in
the Diwan-i-*Am, and pass through a
doorway into Shah Jehan's palace.
Here is the Machchi Bhawan, or " Fish
Sauare," formerly a tank. In the N.
side are two bronze gates taken by
Akbar from the palace at Chitor. At
the N.W: corner is a beautiful little
three-domed mosque of white marble,
called the Naginah MuBJid, or "Gem
Mosque." It was the private mosque
of the royal ladies of the court, and was
built by Shah Jehan, who was after-
wards imprisoned there by his successor
Aurangzib. Beneath, in a small court-
yard, was a bazaar where the merchants
used to display their goods to the ladies
of the court. A two-storied cloister
runs all round the Machchi Bhawan,
except on the side which fronts the
Jumna, where the upper story gives
place to an open terrace, with a black
throne, on the side nearest the river»
and a white seat opposite, where it ii
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ROUTE 9. AGRA
173
! said the Court Jester sat. The black
throne has a long fissure, which is said
I to have appeared when the throne was
usurped by the Jat chief of Bhurtpur.
There is a reddish stain in one spot,
which shows a combination of iron, but
the natives pretend that it is blood. An
inscription runs round the four sides,
I which says in brief, when Salim became
heir to the crown his name was chanced
to Jehangir, and for the light of nis
justice he was called Nuru-din. His
sword cut his enemies' heads into two
' halves like the Gremini. As long as
the heaven is the throne for the sun,
may the throne of Salim remain. Date
1011 A.H.=1603 A.D. Beneath this
terrace is a deep wide ditch where con-
tests between elephants and tigers used
to take place. Close by, near the S. W.
comer of the terrace, is the Meena
MoBJid, or private mosque of the em-
peror. On the N. of the terrace is the
site of the hall of green marble and
Honmiaiii, now in a ruinous condition,
and on the S.
The Diwaa-i-Khas, or Hall of Private
Audience. It is a miracle of beauty.
The carving is exquisite, and flowers
are inlaid on the white marble, with
red cornelian, and other valuable stones.
From this building, or from his throne
on the terrace, the Emperor looked
OTer the broad river to the beautiful
gardens and buildings on the opposite
shore. The date of this buildinff is
1046 A.H.=1637 A.D. The inlaid or
pietra dura work has been restored. A
staircase leads from the Diwan-i-Ehas
to the Saman Biuj, or Jasmine Tower,
there the chief Sultana lived. Part of
the marble pavement in front of it is
made to represent a Pachisi board. The
lovely mar Die lattice-work seems to have
been broken by cannon-shot in some
places. A beautiful pavilion, with a
fountain and retiring-room, close upon
the river, are the chief apartments here.
Adjoining and facing the river is the
Qolden Pa^on,so called from its being
roofed with gilded plates of copper. In
it are bedrooms for ladies, with noles in
Ae wall, 14 in. deep, into which they
iwedto slip their jewels. These holes
we so narrow that only a woman's arm
could draw them out. There is a simi-
lar building on the S. side of the Khas
Mahal (see below).
Near here are remains of reservoirs
and watercourses, and arrangements
for the raising of water from below.
The traveller will now enter the
Angari Bagh or ''Grape Garden," a
fine square of 280 ft. planted with
flowers and shrubs. At the N.E.
comer is the Shish Mahal, literally
" Mirror Palace." It consists of two
dark chambers furnished with fountains
and an artificial cascade arranged to
fall over lighted lami)s. The walls and
ceiling are lined with innumerable small
mirrors (restored in 1875). From here
there is direct communication with the
Water Gate and the Saman Burj. At
the E. end of the square is a lovely
hall, called the Khas Mahal, the gild-
ing and colouring of which were in part
restored in 1875. In front are small
tanks and fountains. Proceeding to
the S., the visitor will come to three
rooms, beautifully decorated in fresco,
which were the private apartments of
Shah Jehan.
On the rt. is an enclosure railed in,
in which stand the so-called Gates of
Somnath, 25 ft. high, and finely carved :
they are of Deodar wood, of Saracenic
work. There is a Kufic inscription
running round them, in which the name
of Sabuktagin has been read. They
were captured by General Nott at
Ghazni and brought here in 1 842. The
room nearest the river is an octagonal
pavilion, and very beautiful. In it
Shah Jehan died, gazing upon the Taj,
the tomb of his favourite wife.
Jehangir Mahal, a red stone palace
into which the traveller now enters,
was built either by Jehangir or Akbar.
It stands in the S.E. part of the Fort,
between the palace of Shah Jehan and
the Bangali bastion. The red sandstone
of which it is built has not resisted the
destructive action of the elements. In
some parts there are two stories ; the
lower story has no windows looking to
the front, but the upper has several.
The upper front is ornamented with
blue and bright green tiles inserted into
the sandstone. The masonic symbol
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174
ROUTE 9. JEYPORE TO AGRA
India
of the double triangle, inlaid in white
marble, occurs in several places on the
front gateway. The entrance gateway
leading directly into the palace is very
fine. The two corner towers were sur-
mounted by elegant cupolas, of which
one only remains. Near here, on the
roof, may again be seen arrangements
for the storage of water, with 21 pipes
for supplying the fountains below. The
entrance leads through a vestibule into
a beautiful domed hall, 18 ft. sq., the
ceiling of which is elaborately carved.
A corridor leads into the grand central
court, which is 72 ft. sq. The design
of this court, its pillars, the carving
and ornamentation, are all pure Hindu.
"On the N. side of the court is a
grand open pillared hall 62 ft. long
and 87 ft. broad. The pillars support
bracket capitals, richly carved and
ornamented with pendants. The front
brackets support broad sloping eaves
of thin stone slabs. But the stone
roof or ceiling of this pillared hall is
the most remarkable feature about
it. It is supported most curiously
by stone cross-beams, which are orna-
mented with the quaint device of a
great serpent or dragon carved on them
lengthways. A covered passage, or
corridor, runs round the top of this
hall, from which one can look down
into it The other pillared hall on
the opposite or S. side of the grand
court is somewhat less in size."
Passing from the grand court, through
a large chamber to the E., the visitor
will find a grand archway in the centre
of a quadrangle which faces the river.
It is supported by two lofty pillars and
two half pillars of the more slender
and graceful Hindu kind. Some of
the diambers are lined with stucco,
which has been painted, and has
lasted better than the stone -work.
For minute and exquisite ornamental
carving in stone, the great central
court is pre-eminent. The palace ends
on the side facing the river with a
retaining wall, and two corner bastions,
each surmounted by an ornamental
tower with a domed cupola. There
are many vaulted chambers underneath
the palace, believed to have been used
as places of retreat during the summer
heats. They were thoroughly explored
during 1857, but as the air is very
close, and snakes are numerous, they
are seldom visited. Between the palace
of Jehangir and that of Shah Jehan
there is a series of bathing tanks and
pipes.
The Jamma Musjid faces the Delhi
gate of the Fort, and is close to
the rly. sta. It stands upon a raised
platform, reached by flights of steps on
the S. and E. sides. The mosque
proper is divided into 5 compartments,
each of which opens on the courtyard
by a fine archway. The work has all
the originality and vigour of the early
Mogul style, mixed with many re-
miniscences of the Pathan schooL The
inscription over the main archway sets
forth that the mosque was constructed
by the Emperor Shah Jehan in 1644,
after five years' labour. It was built in
the name of his daughter Jehanara,
who afterwards devotedly shared her
father's captivity when he was deposed
by Aurangzib. The great peculiarity
01 this Musjid consists in its three great
full-bottomed domes without necks,
shaped like inverted balloons, and built
of red sandstone, with zigzag bands of
white marble circling round them.
Its grand gateway was pulled down by
the British authorities during the
Mutiny, as it threatened the d^ences
of the Fort.
St. George's Church is divided into
a nave with two side aisles. It was
built in 1826, partly by Government
and partly by subscription. The tower
and spire are of more recent date. The
inlaid marble work for which Agra is
so famous is well worth notice in the
rercdos and the altar.
St. Faul's [Military) Church was
built by the E. I. Co. in 1828. It
contains several interesting tablets.
St. Paul's {Civil) Church, about 4
m. N. of St. George's Church.
St. John's College is the centre of
the C.M.S. Mission.
The Agra College. — At the end of
the last cent Maharaja Sindia made
over certain villages in the districts of
Muttra and Alisarh to a learned Brah-
man for the twofold purpose of keepbg
d by Google
ROUTE 9. AGRA
175
up a Sanscrit school and of supplying
the wants of pilgrims visiting the
shrines around Muttra. In 1818 he
left his lands in trust to the £. India
Ca, who devoted two- thirds of the pro-
ceeds to the establishment of this col-
lege, and one -third to hospitals at
Muttra and Aligarh. The College,
opened 1886, consists of a high school,
with 700 pupils and 27 masters, and a
college |ffoper, with 250 undergraduates
and 11 professors. It is managed by a
board of trustees.
TheBoman Catholic Cathedrali Con-
nnt^ and Sehools, dedicated to the
Virgin Mary, are quite close to the Old
Jail, and i m. N.W. of the Fort.
There is a tower about 150 ft. high.
To the N. of the church is a fine
white building, a convent, and to the
S. is the priests' house. On the wall
of the garden are several inscriptions,
the oldest of which bears the date of
1791 A.D. These buildings are large,
but not architecturally interesting.
The establishment is, however, worthy
of attention for its antiquity and the
good work it does. It is the seat of a
Roman Catholic Bishop. The Mission
was founded in the time of Akbar, and
bas long been celebrated for its school,
where the children of soldiers and others
ve educated. The earliest tombs con-
nected with the settlement of Christians
at Agra are in the old cemetery attached
to the Mission. The most ancient epi-
taphs are in the Armenian character.
John Hessing and Walter Reinhai'dt
(Sumroo) lie here.
The Central JaU, 1 m. to the N.W.
of the Fort, is one of the largest, if
not the largest, in India. The manu-
&ctores in this Jail are well worth
attention. In the carpet factory men
lit on each side, ana the Instructor
calls out the thread ; his words are
repeated by one of the men, and the
tliread put m accordingly. A first-class
carpet has eight threads in the weft, and
eight in the warp in the sq. in. Six
men in a fall day of ten hours' work can
5 in. a day in a 12 ft. carpet
Qtad&OB, otherwise called
the Asafa Bagh, where the band plays
every Wednesday. In the centre is a
lofty sandstone obelisk, with an inscrip-
tion to General Sir John Adams,
G.C.B.
The Tomb of I'timada-daulah.—
This building, one of the finest in Agra,
stands on the left bank of the Jumna
near the E. I. Railway Goods Station.
The traveller should cross the pontoon
bridge and turn to the left, and at about
200 yds. he will come to the garden
in which it stands. It is the tomb of
Ghayas Beg, called by Sir W. Sleeman,
Khwajah Accas, a Persian, who was the
father of Nur Jehan, and her brother,
Asaf Khan, and became high treasurer
of Jehangir. This mausoleum is entirely
encased -vrith white marble externally,
and partly internally, being beautifully
inlaid with pietra aura work. It is a
square building with an octagonal tower
at each comer and a i-aised pavilion in
the centre. On each side of each of the
entrances are window recesses filled with
exquisite marble lattice-work. Notice
the remarkably delicate low relief work
in the return of the doorways overhead.
Each chamber has a door leading into
the next, but the central has only one
open door, the other three being filled
uith marble lattice- work. In this cen-
tral chamber are the two yellow marble
tombs of Ghayas Beg and his wife, on
a platform of variegated stone. The
walls are decorated with pietra dura.
There are seven tombs altogether in the
mausoleum. The side chambers are
also panelled with slabs of inlaid marble,
but the upper part of the walls and the
ceiling are lined with plaster, orna-
mented with paintings of flowers and
long-necked vases. In the thickness of
the outer walls of the S. chamber there
are two flights of stairs, which ascend
to the second story, on which is the
pavilion, containing two marble ceno-
taphs, counterparts of those below. The
roof is canopy-shaped, with broad slop-
ing eaves, and marble slabs. The sides
are of perforated marble lattice-work.
The octagonal towers, faced with marble,
at each corner of the mausoleum spread
out into balconies supported by brackets
at the level of the roof. There was a
' marble railing, which has been de-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
176
ROUTE 9. JEYPORE TO AGRA
India
l:
stroyed, along the platfonn of the roof.
The mausoleum is surrounded by a
walled enclosure, except towards the
river, or W. front ; in the centre of the
river-front is a red sandstone pavilion.
Chini ka Boza, or china tomb,
stands on the left bank of the Jumna,
opposite Agra. It has one great dome
resting on an octagonal base. In the
centre is a beautiful octagonal domed
chamber in ruins. In it are two tombs
of brick, which have replaced marble
tombs. Besides the central chamber,
there are four square comer chambers,
and four side halls. The mausoleum
stands on the river bank, in a masonry
enclosure. Though called china, this
ruin is only externally glazed or en-
amelled. It is said to have been built
by Afzal Ehan, in the time of Aurang-
zib.
The Ealan Husjid is opposite the
present Medical School in the Saban
Eatra. Mr. Carlleyle thinks it the
oldest mosque in Agra, and that it was
built by Sikandar I^di.
Akbar'8 Tomb is at Sikomdarah^ so
named from Sikandar Lodi, who reigned
from 1489 a.d. It is 5^ m. from the
cantonment at Agra, in a N.W. direc-
tion. There are many tombs on the
way, and a badly sculptured horse, which
formerly stood on an inscribed pedestal,
now removed. This is on the left or S.
side of the road, nearly 4 m. from A^a,
and nearly opposite the lofty arched
gateway of an ancient building called
the Eachi ki SaraL At ^ m. farther on
is a tank of red sandstone, with orna-
mental octagonal towers, called Guru
ka Tal. On the S. side are three flights
of steps, and E. of them is a long and
broad channel of masonry, which brought
water to the tank. At the E. side
there is a mausoleum on a platfonn of
masonry. According to Mr. Carlleyle,
the Barahdarl was built by Sikandar
Lodi in 1495 a.d. It is a red sand-
stone two-storied building. The ground
floor contains forty chambers. Each
comer of the building is surmounted
by a short octagonal tower. It is com-
monly known as the tomb of Begam
Mariam, because Akbar interred here
his so-called Portuguese Christian wife
Mary. Her tomb is in the vault below
and there is also a white marble ceno-
taph in the centre of the upper story.
The Barahdari is now occupied by a
part of the establishment of the Agra
Orphan Asylum.
The gateway to the garden surround-
ing Akbar'8 Tomb is truly magnificent
It is of red sandstone, inlaid with white
marble, very massive, and with a
splendid scroll, a foot broad, of Turiua
writing adomine it. On the top of the
gateway, at each comer, rises a white
minaret of two stories. The kiosks
which crowned them have been de-
stroyed over 100 years. There is a fine
view from the platform at the top, and
it is worth ascending the steep stairs for
it. To the W. are seen the Orphanage
Church, and a little to the right of it
the Begam ka Mahal, its dark red colour
contrasting with the white of the
church. Far to the S.W. on a clear day
the grand gateway at Fatehpur-Sikri can
be dimly seen. Over the tomb to the
N. is seen the Jumna ; to the S.E. are
seen the Fort, the Taj, the church in
the Civil lines, and the city of Agra.
A broad paved path leads to the mauso-
leum of Akbar. It is a pyramidal
building of 4 stories, three of which
are of red sandstone, the fourth, where
rests Akbar's cenotaph, being of white
marble. A massive cloister runs rouud
the lower story, broken S. and N. by
high central arches : that on the S. forms
the entrance. The vaulted ceiling of
the vestibule was elaborately frescoed
in gold and blue. A section has been
restored. The Surah-i-Mulk runs under
the cornice in a scroll 1 ft broad. A
gentle incline leads to the vaulted
chamber in which the great Akbar
rests ; it is quite dark, and the once
illuminated walls are now dirty and de-
faced. On either side of the main arch
bays of the cloister are screened off and
contain tombs. First on the left is
a tomb with an Arabic inscription in
beautiful characters. This is tie tomb
of Shukm'n Nisa Begam. The second
is the tomb of the uncle of Bahadur
Shah, the last king of Delhi The next
is the tomb of Zibu'n Nisa, daurfitcr of
Aurangzib ; and in a niche in the side
of the room, farthest from the entranec^
is an alabaster tablet inscribed with
Digitized by CjOOQIC ^ J
ROUTE 9. PATEHPDB-SIKRI
177
the dd divine names. On tlie £. of the
entrance is the tomb of Aram Bano.
Narrow staircases lead above. The
fourth or highest platform is surrounded
by a beautiful doister of white marble,
carved on the outer side into lattice-
work in squares of 2 ft., every square
having a different pattern. In the
centre is the splendid white cenotaph
of Akbtr, just over the place where his
dust rests in the gloomy vaulted cham-
ber below. On the N. side of this
cenotaph is inscribed the motto of the
sect he founded, "Allahu Akbar,"
"God is greatest" ; and on the S. side
"JaUa Jalalahu," "May His glory
shine." To the N. of this cenotaph,
at the distance of 4 ft., is a handsome
white marble pillar 4 ft. high, which
was once covered vjrith gold and con-
tamed the Koh-i-Nur. It is said that
Nadir Shah took it from here.
A short distance to the left of the
main road, which runs through Sik-
andarah, there is an old mosque, partly
built of brick and partly of red sand-
stone, called Bhuri Khan's. It has one
d(nne. There is an octaeonal tower at
each front comer. A snort distance
to the S.K are the remains of Bhuri
Khan's palace, namely, the gateway
and part of the fa<^e. Just beyond
the N.W. comer of the mausoleum at
Sikandarali is an old Hindu boundair
stone with a Nagari inscription, which
gives the date 1494.
A good road — the one used by the
great Akbar himself — leads W. from
Agra through a shady avenue to 22^ m.
FATEHFUR - SIXBI, 3^ D.B. (The
nearest rly. stas. are Achnera June,
12 SL, and Bhurtpur, 11 m. No
carria^ at either place. )
Phi^eeding to tne W. from Agra
through Sha^gai^, observe at the en-
trance to it the ruins of a mosque, with
an inscription saying it was built in
1821, the 16th year of Jehangir's reign.
It marks the site of the old Ajmere
sate. Farther on is a Muslim cemetery.
Known as Mujdi ka Gumbaz, where is
Uie tomb of Mirza Hindal, son of Babar,
hdier of Akbar's chief wife. At the
foot of the tomb is a monolith 7 ft.
^^ with the date 1570.
[Indda]
The royal and now deserted city of
Fatehpur-Sikri, standing on a low
sandstone ridge, was essentially Akbar's,
the whole being begun (1670) and com-
pleted during his reign ; owing to this
fact and on account of its very perfect
state of preservation it forms a unique
specimen of a city in the exact condition
in which it was occupied by the Great
Mogul and his court. It is hard to
say what induced Akbar to build at
Fatehpur-Sikri, possibly because after
the death of twm sons it was prog-
nosticated by Salim Chisti, an old
saint residing there, that another would
be bom to him who would survive. As
foretold, this was the case, and the
child, called Salim after the hermit,
eventually ascended the throne as
Jehangir. Akbar cave the town the
prefix "Fatehnur" (city of victory) to
commemorate his conquest of Guzerat.
Beyond the period of Akbar's occu-
pation, Fatehpur-Sikri has no local
history worth mentioning. The British
Government had a tahsil here as late
as 1850, when it was removed to Earaoli
on the ground of unhealthiness. Dur-
ing the Mutiny it was twice occupied
by Neemuch and the Nusseerabad reoels
between July and October 1857.
From the arrangement of the build-
ings it is evident that Akbar had the
whole carefully planned out. This
will be seen by the position of the
Khwabgah, Akbar's private room,
which commands the Ik^fter Khana^
Record Ofl&ce, and the whole of the
principal buildings. From it he could
reach, without being observed, "Jodh
Bai " — by a covered way pulled down
during 19th century restorations —
Miriam's House, Bir Bal's, Panch
Mahal, Turkish Sultana's House,Council
Chamber, etc. etc. On entering the
city by the Agra gate, the traveller will
see the remains of an old building
formerly used by merchants. Proceed-
ing up the road, which lies between
mounds of debris and mins, he passes
beneath the Nawbat Khana, from the
upper rooms of which musicians played
as Akbar entered the city. Farther 1.
are the remains of the Treasury, and
opposite it what is known traditionally
as the Mint, a large quadrangular build-
Digitized by vjOOQ N
178
ROUTE 9. JEYPORE TO AGRA
India
ing. Just in front of this is the Diwan-
i-'Am, measuring some 866 ft. from N.
to S. by 181 ft. from E. to W., and
surroimded by a flat-roofed cloister.
On the W. side is the hall, with a deep
verandah in front, from which Akbar
delivered his judgments in the presence
of the assembled crowd below. He
stood between two pierced stone screens
of fine geometric design, extant but
restored. The room behind has a
in Persian (much defaced) to the Em-
peror. Originally the chamber was
painted. Below is a room, and in it a
platform supported by two splendid
red sandstone shafts beautifrilly carved.
Probably the Hindu priest lived here.
W. is a door which led to the Dafter
Khana (see above), and by it the
officers and others could enter the
Khwabgah. The space to the N.
formed the Khas HahaL
peculiar root which was painted. The
road leads through the courtyard to the
Dafter Khana, or Record Office, now
the D.B. On the back is a staircase
leading to the roof, from which there is
a fine view of the city. The inner
stone partition walls are modem. In
front, facing N., is Akbar's Khwab-
gah, or Sleeping Apartment, literally
y House of Dreams." Written on the
internal walls over the architraves of
the doors are some complimentary verses
U^aiAer^SoutttUac^
At the N.E. corner of the courtyard
is the ''TurkiBh Qneen's" House,
thought by most people to be the most
interesting apartment of alL As it
now stands it consists of only one small
chamber 16 X 15 ft Every square inch
is carved, including the soffits of the
cornices. The ceiling and decoration
of the verandah pillars and pilasteis
are exceptionally fine. Inside is a most
elaborate dado about 4 ft. high, con-
sisting of 8 sculptured panels repre-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 9. FATBHPUR-SIKRI
179
senting forest views, animal life, etc.
Above, the wall takes the form of a
stone lattice screen, the divisions of
which were used as shelves. Much of
the carving is curiously like Chinese
work.
W. is the Girls' School, a small plain
building carried on square stone piers.
In front is an open square, upon the
stone flags of which is Akhar's rachisi-
board, with his stone seat in the centre.
It is in the form of a cross and is laid
out in coloured pavement It is said
the game was played with slave girls to
take the moves, as we use ivory pieces
on a chess-board.
At the N. of the quadrangle is the
Diwan-i-Khas, or "Private Hall," or
Cooncil Chamber. From the outside
it appears to be two stories high, but
on entering it is found to consist of one
only, with a central pillar crowned by
an immense circular corbelled capital,
radiating from which to the 4 comers
of the building are 4 stone causeways
enclosed by open trellis stone balus-
trades (restored). Tradition says that
in the centre of this capital the Emperor
sat whilst the comers were occupied by
Ids 4 ministers. The shaft is beauti-
fally carved, and should be carefully
studied. On the E. and W. sides are
stone staircases communicating with
the roof. The open screen-work in the
windows is modem. A few feet to the
W. is the building known as the Anh
UichatUi, and the story told is that
Ae Emperor here played hide-and-
seek witn the ladies of the Court ; but
it was most likely used for records.
It consists of 3 large lofty rooms sur-
rounded by narrow passages, lighted
by stone screen windows. The ceuings
of 2 of the rooms are coved, but the
3d is flat and supported on struts orna-
mented with grotesque carving. In
front, on the S.£. comer, is a small
canopied stracture used by the astro-
loger, who probably was a Hindu Guru,
or "teacher." It is after the style of
trchitectare used by the Hindus dur-
ing the 11th and 12th cents. Under
the architraves are curiously carved
abuts issuing from the mouths of
iBonsters dowelled into the shafts
at Uie comers. The under side of the
dome was painted. Adjoining these
buildings to the W. is the Hospital.
Some of the stone partitions forming
the wards are eztant. The ceilings
are of solid slabs of stone, carved on
the outside to represent tiles.
From here is next seen the Fanch
Mahal, a 5-storied colonnade, each tier
being smaller than the one below, till
nothing but a small kiosque remains
atop. It was probably erected for the
ladies of the court as a pleasure resort,
as the sides were originally enclosed
with stone screens : these were removed
during modem restorations, when the
solid stone parapets were replaced by
the pierced ones as at present seen, and
the positions of the staircases were
altered. The first floor is remarkable
on account of the variety of the 56
columns which support the story
above, no two are alike in design.
Many of the shafts are similar, but the
caps vary: at the angles of one are
elephants' heads with interlaced trunks,
on another a man gathering frait On
the N.W, angle is a group of 4 which
should be examined. From the top-
most floor there is a splendid view.
S. and a little to W. of the Panch
Mahal is the House of Miriam (said to
have been Akbar's Portuguese Christian
wife, but more probably a Hindu
princess), a small building with defaced
frescoes in the niches and upon the
walls, and piers of verandah. One, in
which the wings of angels are distinctly
visible, suggests the Annunciation. At
one time the whole house was painted
inside and out. The original name
Sunahra Makan, or "Golden House,"
was given it on account of the profuse
gilding with which its walls were
adomed. On the N.W. is Miriam*s
Garden, and at S.E. angle her bath,
with a large column in the centre. On
the W. side is the Naginah, or Zenana,
Moeque, and the remains of a small
Turkish bath. At the S. end of
garden is a small fish tank, which, to-
gether with the stone pavement of the
garden, was brought to light by Mr. E.
W. Smith of the Arch. Survey, 1891.
To the N.W. a road leads to the
Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate) on the N.
of the city. Over iit^ W. archway, 20
Digitized by VjOOQ
180
ROUTE 9. JEYPORE TO AGRA
India
ft. from the ground, are 2 life-sized
elephants much mutilated (probably
by Aurangzib). To the 1. is the
Sungin Btuj, a groined bastion or keep,
said to have been the commencement
of the fortifications planned by Akbar,
but abandoned on account of objections
raised by Saint Salim Chisti. Down
the old stone paved road on the 1. is
the Earwan Saxai (caravanserai). It
consists of a large court 272 x 246 ft.
surrounded by the merchants' hostels.
Formerly the S.E. side was 3 stories
high. At the N. end, beyond the
Sarai, stands the Hiran Minar (Deer
Minaret), a circular tower some 70 ft.
high studded withprotrudingelephants'
tusks of stone. Tradition says that it
is erected over the grave of Akbar's
favourite elephants, and that from the
lantern in the top the Emperor shot
antelope and other game brought up by
beaters, hence its name. The land to
the N. and W. was a large lake in
Akbar's time.
On the 1. of the road returning to
the Hathi Pol is a very fine stone
well surrounded by rooms and stair-
cases which formed a part of the
waterworks. The water was lifted
from this level by Persian wheels
and a system of reservoirs to the
arched gate on the N.W. corner of
Bir Bal's House, and thence dispensed
throughout the palace.
The palace of Birtoal is to the S.W.
of Miriam's Garden (see above). It is
the finest residence in Fatehpur-Sikri,
and was built by Rajah Bir Bal for his
daughter. It is a 2-storied building of
red sandstone standing on a raised
platform, and consists of 4 rooms 15
ft sq. and 2 entrance porches on the
ground floor and 2 above with small
terraces in front of them, enclosed by
stone screens, forming a ladies' pro-
menade. Over the upper rooms are
flat-ribbed cupolas, carried on octagonal
drums and supported on richly orna-
mented corbel brackets stretching
across the angles of the rooms ; and the
stone panelled walls and niches are
covered with intricate patterns. The
ceilings of the lower rooms are supported
on a fine and unique frieze, and the
whole of the interior, pilasters, recesses,
walls, and cusp-arched doorways are
elaborately and beautifully carved with
geometrical patterns. The exterior
walls are almost as profusely orna-
mented. No wood has been used in
the construction of this extraordinary
building, to which the words of Victor
Hugo have been applied : **If it were
not the most minute of palaces, it was
the most gigantic of jewel-cases."
Rajah Birbal was celebrated for his wit
and learning, and was the only Hindu
of eminence who embraced the new
religion of Akbar, whose favourite
courtier he was. He perished with the
whole of the army he was commanding
in the Yusufzye country to the N.E.
of Peshawar in 1586.
S. of Bir Bal's house are the Stables
for 102 horses and nearly as many
camels. In some of the mangers stone
rings for the horses* halters stul remain,
and on the N.W. side one of the old
doors. The camel stables are lighted
by openings in the roof.
The Palace of Jodh Bai, erroneously
so called, was probably used by the
Emperor or by his chief wife Sultana
Rukia. It adjoins the stables, but the
entrance is on the E. from the open
space in front of the Record Ojfice. It
is a quadrangular building, 232 x 215
ft. The courtyard within has recep-
tion rooms on the N., S., and W. sides
connected by a flat -roofed corridor
partly closed by stone walls. The
room on the W. is more ornate than
the others, and in the rear wall is a
fireplace. There are chambers above,
and those on the N. and S. sides rise
to 2 stories : they are gable-roofed and
ornamented with blue enamelled tiling.
At the angles the chambers are sur-
mounted by cupolas, originally painted.
Overlooking Miiiam's Garden is a
small room, the walls of which are
entirely composed of beautiful stone
lattice-work. Prom the mezzanine floor
on the N. side a closed passage leads to
a garden abutting on the waterworks,
beside which a gallery passed to the
N. side of the Sarai near the Hiran
Minar. It is now in ruins, and not
easy of identification. In the pass-
age, and just before the garden is
reached, is a very fine stone screen
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 9. ! ATBHPUR-SIKRI
181
beneath a small cupola which should
be seen.
The Dargah and Mosque are S. W. of
the Becord Office. The £. gate, called
the Badshahi, or "royal" gate, opens
into the great quadrangle. To the rt is
the Tomb or Dargah of Shaik Salim
Ghisti,the Kawasa or gi-andson of Shak-
har Ganj Shah, who is buried at Pak
Patan. It is surrounded by beautiful
white marble lattice-work screens, and
has doors of solid ebony, ornamented
with brass. Within, the building is
marble only for the first 4 ft The canopy
oyer the tomb of the saint is inlaid with
ikiother-of-pearl, hung with the usual
dkphy of ostrich eggs. On the ceno-
taph is written the date of the saint's
death and the date of the completion of
the building, 1580, "May God hallow
his tomb ! The beloved helper of the
sect and its saint, Shaik Salim, whose
miraculous gifts and propinquity to the
Divine Being are celebrated, and by
whom the lamp of the family of Chisti
illuminated. Be not double-sighted,
looking to the transitory self, as well
as to the everlasting Deity. The year
of his decease is known throughout the
world." This last line is the chrono-
gram.^
The brackets which support the drip-
stone or eaves of the tomb are copies of
those in the old mosque of the stone-
masons outside the quadrangle and W.
of the mosque, where Shaik Salim lived
his hermit life in a cave now covered
by a room. In a portico on the right
the saint taught his disciples before
the place had attracted the notice of
royalty. Childless women, both Hindu
and Mohammedan, resort to the tomb
and pray the saint to intercede in their
|avour. On the N. of the quadrangle
is also the tomb of Islam Khan, sur-
mounted with a cupola ; he was the
grandson of the sain^ and Governor of
Heneal.
The Hosque proper, to the W. , is said
to he a copy of the one at Mecca. It
is about 70 ft high, and very beautiful.
It consists of 3 interior square chambers
surrounded by rows of lofty pillars of
1 An the inscriptions here may be fonnd
in the Miftahu 'I Tawarikh, by John EUis,
printed at Agra.
Hindu type. At the N. and S. ends
are zenana chambers. Going out by
a door at the back of the mosque, in an
enclosure on the right is an iQfant's
tomb, said to be that of the saint's son,
whose life was sacrificed at the age of
6 months in order that Akbar's son
(Jehangir) might live when bom. At
the S. of the quadrangle is the Gate of
Viotory, Buland Darwazah ("high
gate "), which towers to the height of
1 30 ft. Fergusson says that when looked
at from below its appearance is noble be-
yond that of any portal attached to any
mosque in India, perhaps in the whole
world. The grandeur of this great height
is increased by a vast flight of steps on
the outside, giving a total height of
160 ft. Fine view from the top.
In the archwajr is an inscription on
the left hand going out, which says
that the "King of Kings, Shadow of
God, Jalalu-din, Muhammad Akbar,
the Emperor, on his return from con-
quering the kingdoms of the S., and
Khandesh, formerly called Dhandesh,
came to Fatehpur in the 46th year of
his reign, corresponding to 1601 a.d.,
and proceeded from thence to Agra."
On the opposite side is inscribed " Isa
(Jesus), on whom be peace, said : * The
world is a bridge, pass over it, but
build no house on it. The world en-
dures but an hour, spend it in devo-
tion.'" The doors of this great gate-
way are studded with horse-shoes, affixed
by the owners of sick horses who im-
plore the prayers of the saint for their
recovery. From the steps, or better
still, from the summit of the gate, may
be seen the villages of Sikri and Fateh-
pur, and a tract of dry and barren
country. It is supposed that it was
the want of water which caused Fateh-
pur to be deserted. In front of the
steps are some Turkish baths. N. of
the Dargah and outside the mosque
are the houses of the brothers Abu '1
Fazl and Faizi, the famous and learned
favourites of Akbar and followers of his
new religion. These are now turned
into a boys' school. They consist of
several rooms ; in one Hindu and Urdu
are taught, in another English, and in
a third Persian and Arabic. What is
now the English class-room was the
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182
ROUTE 10. AGRA TO BINDRABAN
India
zenana. To tbe W. of Boland Dar-
wazah is a large well, into which boys
and men spying from the walls, from
heights va^ng from 30 to 80 ft. A
Hela, or fair, commences on the 20th
of Bamzarit the anniversary of the
saint's death, and ksts for 8 days.
A little to the N.E. of the Record
Office is the HaMm, or doctor's house,
and a very large and fine Humxnam,
the walls and ceilings of which are
richly ornamented with stamped plaster-
work. To the rt. on leaying and ad-
joining the Nusseerabad road is a spa-
cious and interesting Baoli, from which
the baths and this part of the city were
supplied. Leading to a well at one
end is a broad staircase enclosed on
each side by rooms. Around the well
are chambers for Persian wheels for
drawing the water. ^
The Nusseerabad road is stone paved,
and leads through the market to the
Tehra Gkite. On the outside is a tomb
with small mosque and 'Idgah, but
they are not of much importance.
ROUTE 10
Agra to Bindrabak by Aohnera
Juno, and Muttra (with excur-
sions to Mahaban and Dig).
Achnera junc sta. (1 7 m. W. of Agra),
on the B. B. and C. I. Rly. (see
p. 147).
From Achnera to Muttra is 23 m.,
from Hathras junc (97 m. S. of Delhi)
to Muttra is 29 m.
Muttra (or Mathura) junc sta.,
I D.B., in the cantonments S. of the city
[ (the town rly. sta. is on the branch line
I to Bindraban, 8 m. distant, see below).
1 Pop. 60,000. The city stretches for
t about IJ m. along the right bank of
the Jumna. The Fort, rebuilt in Ak-
i 1 Fathepur Sikrl has been extensively illns-
trated in 4 vols, of the Archce^ogioal Survey
BeporU by Mr. B. W. Smith.
bar's time, is in the centre : only the
substructure remains. The Jail and
Collector's Office are 1| m. to the S.
beyond the town, and 1 m. to the W.
of the town is a Jain temple and a
large mound of bricks called Chaurasl
Tila. In a line with the Jain temple,
but bordering on the town, is the Katra
mound (see below), and about ^ m. to
the S. is another mound called Kankali,
and to the S.W., at distances varying
from ) HL to 1 m., are five mounds
called the Chaubarah mounds.^ There
are 3 Churches— the Anglican *' Christ
Church," the Roman CathoHc Church,
and a Presbyterian Church. The former
contains several interesting monu-
ments.
The city is entered by the Hardinge
Gate, also called Holi Gate, built by
the municipality. The finely -carved
stonework i&qadea of the better class of
houses are well worthy of inspection,
and are one of the peculiarities of the
city.
The Biver and Ghats. — Even in the
beginning of May the Jumna is here
800 yds. broad. There is a paved street
the whole way along it, with bathing
ghats, descending to the water, and
ornamental chabutarahs, or platforms,
and small but well-proportioned pa-
vilions. Generally speaking, the men
bathe at separate ghats from the
women.
The river is full of turtles, some of
them very large, poking their long
necks and heads out to be fed. About
80 yds. W. of the bridge is the fine
House of the Guru Farshotamdas.
Then comes another belonging to a
Guzerati, called Ballamdas. Opposite
to this, on the farther bank of the river,
is the flourishing village of Hans Oanj,
or "Swan borough," and N. of this
again is a stone tower, 55 ft. high,
called the Sati Buxj, because when
Hans was killed by Knshna, his widow
committed sati here. Growse, p. 97,
says it was the wife of Baiah Bhar
Mai, of Amb^r, mother of Bhagwan-
das, who built it in 1570 a.d. The
traveller now descends several steps to
1 All these places will be fonnd mentioned
by General Conningham in vol. iiL of his Arrh,
Survey Bqports, p. 18, and also in vol. i. p. 23^
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ROUTE 10. MUTTRA
183
the Bisraut Ghat, a little N. of the Sati
Boij, and so to a sort of square, where
the Rj^as are weighed against gold.
There is a small white marble arch
here, close to the river. Beyond this
is a ghat bmlt by Jai Sing, of Jeypore,
and the enormous house and temple
belonging to Seth Lakshman Das, %.e.
son of Seth Govind Das.
The Jnnmia Hiujid, once corered
with encaustic tiles, stands high. Its
court is 14 ft above the level of the
street On either side of the fii^ade of
the gateway are Persian lines. The
chronogram gives the date 1660-61.
Over the fa^de of the mosque proper
are the 99 names of God. At the sides
are two pavilions roofed in the Hindu
manner. There are four minarets, which
are 132 ft high. At the entrance to
the W. of the town is the 'Idgah (the
glazed tiles should be observed), and
about J m. to the W. of the town is
The Katra, which is an enclosure
like that of a sarai, 804 ft long by
658 ft broad. Upon a terrace stancte
a great red stone mosque, the most
conspicuous object in a distant view of
Mottra. There is another terrace 6 ft
lower, where are votive tablets in the
Nagri character, dated Samwat 1718-
20. On this site stood the great
temjde of KeiaTa Bao, which Tavemier
saw in the beginning of Aurangzib's
ni^, apparently about 1659 A.D., and
which he describes as very magnificent,
adding that it ranked next after the
temples of Jacannath and Benares
{Travels f -pi, ii ok. iii. ch. 12, French
ed., and Cunningham, Reports, vol. iii
pi 15. ) In the Katra mound a number
ef Buddhistic remains have been found
by General Cunningham and others,
ioeluding a broken Buddhist railing
pillar, with the figure of Maya Devi
standing under the Sal tree, and also
a itone on which was inscribed the
well-known genealogy of the Gupta
dynasty, from Shri Gupta, the founder,
down to Samudra Gupta, where the
stone was broken off. He also found
hoilt into the wall of a well, one of the
peenliar curved architraves of a Bud-
dhist gateway, and an inscription on
the base of a statue of Shakya dated
Stmwat 281, or 224 a.d., in which
the Yasa Yihara is mentioned. Two
capitals of columns, one no less than 3
ft. in diameter, were also found. A
fragment of the larger one is still to be
seen lyine inside the gateway. At the
back of the Katra is a modem temple
to Eesava, and close by is the Fotara-
Kond, a tank in which Krishna's baby
linen was washed. This tank is faced
throughout with stone, and has flights
of stone steps down to the water. There
is also a very steep ramp down where
horses go to be washed.
In the New Museum, erected by
public subscription, at the suggestion
of Mr. Mark Thqfnhill, is the carving
which Mr. Growse calls, p. 101, "the
most refined and delicate work of the
kind ever executed."
The best piece of sculpture in the
Museum is the Yasa-ditta statue of
Buddha. The face is really beautiful,
more artistic than that of any figure
vet discovered, but the nose has been
broken off ; the most curious object is
a carved block representing a Bacchanal
group. Immediately opposite are the
Public Gardens, and a little farther
on is the JalL
When Fa Hian travelled in the end
of the 4th century and the beginning
of the 5th, he halted a whole month at
Muttra, and found that there were 20
Buddhist monasteries with 3000 monks ;
but when Hiouen Thsang visited the
place in 684 a.d. the number had de-
clined to 2000, whence it appears that
Buddhism was even then on the wane.
It had wholly disappeared when Mah-
mud of Ghazni came to Muttra in 1017
A.D. He remained there 20 days, pil-
laged and burned the city, and carried
off five golden idols, whose eyes were of
rubies, worth 50,000 dinars =£25, 000.
A sixth idol of gold weighed 1120 lbs.,
and was decorated with a sapphire
weighing 300 Mishkals, or 3^ lbs.
There were also 100 idols of silver,
each of which loaded a camel. The
idols together were worth not less than
£300,000. The Brahman temple of
Eesava Rao was built on the very site
where the great Buddhist monastery
Yasa Yihara stood.
Kear the Jail stood a mound, in
removing which to provide a site for
Digitized by VjOOQIC
184
ROUTE 10. AGRA TO BINDRABAN
India
the Collector's Office aud Magistrates'
Courts, the most extensive discoveries
were made. It appears that on it
stood two Buddhist monasteries, the
Huvishka and the Kunda-Suka Vihara.
The latter is the place where the famous
monkey which made an offering to
Buddha jumped into the tank aud
was killed. At this mound statues of
all sizes, has-reliefs, pillars, Buddhist
rails, votive stupas, stone umbrellas,
and inscriptions have been found.
One inscription is of the 1st century
B.C. The earliest is of the Satrap
Sandasa, and the next of the great
King Kanishka in Jhe year 9. The
left hand of a colossal Buddha has
been found, the figure of which must
have been 24 ft. high. The most
remarkable piece of sculpture is that
of a female, rather more than half
life size, whose attitude, and the
position of whose hands resembles
those of the famous Venus of the
Capitol. Cunningham says it is one
of the best specimens of unaided
Indian Art.
In the Chaubarah mounds, 1^ m. to
the S.W. of the city, measuring from
the gateway of the Katra, was found
a golden casket, now in the possession
of Mr. F. S. Growse.i
The most important discoveries at
Muttra have been made by Dr. Fiihrer
during his excavations at the Kankall
Tila mound, which he looks upon as
the site of the Upagupta monastery
mentioned by Hiouen Thsang. The
remains of one Vaishnava and two Jain
temples, and a Jain stupa, some 49 ft.
8 in. in dia., have been brought to
light, and besides some hundreds of
most valuable sculptures, stupa rail-
ings, panels, etc., on many of which
are inscriptions dating back before
the time of Christ. The discover-
ies prove that the national Indian
arts of architecture and sculpture
nourished in a high degree at Muttra,
and have led to the conclusion that
play-acting was practised very early in
the city of the gods. All the objects
,.i,*'o'' tl»e many other discoveries made in
omerent mounds near Muttra reference must
«S.o^?v ^ Cunningham's Report, vol. iii.,
where they are aetailed »t ^reaneDgth.
discovered have been deposited in the
Lucknow Museum,^ where they can be
examined by visitors.
[Mahaban is about 6 m. S.E. of
Muttra, on the left bank of the Jumna,
and is reached by a good road. It is a
very ancient town and place of pil-
grimage, and first emerges into modem
history in the year 1017 A.D., when it
shared the h,te of Muttra, and was
sacked by Mahmud of Ghazni. The
Hindu prince is said, when the fall of
the town became inevitable, to have
solemnly slain his wife and children,
and then committed suicide. In 1234
a contemporary writer mentions Maha-
ban as one of the gathering places of
the imperial army sent by Sham's-ud-
din against Kalinjar. It is incidentally
referred to by the Emperor Babar in
1526.
The country round about it, although
now bare of woods, appears to have
once been literally Mahaban^ *' a great
forest." Even as late as 1634, the
Emperor Shah Jehan held a hunt here,
and killed four tigers. This ancient
woodland country fringing the sacred
Jumna is the scene of very early reli-
^ous legends. In Sanscrit literature
it is closely associated with Goknl,
about a mile ofif, overhanging the
Jumna. Indeed, the scenes of the
youthful adventures of Krishna, as-
cribed in the Puranis to Gokul, are
actually shown at Mahaban, about a
mile from the river. Gokul seems to
have been originally the common name
for the whole, although it is now re-
stricted to what must have been the
water-side suburb of the ancient town.
The ruins of Mahaban rise as a hill of
brick and mud, covering about 30 acres,
the site of the old fort. The architect-
ural remains combine Buddhist and
Hindu forms.
The most interesting relic at Maha-
ban is the so-caUed Palace of Nanda»
the foster-father of the changeling
Krishna. It consists of a covered
court, re-erected by tie Mohammedans
in the time of Aurangzib from ancient
Hindu and Buddhist materiali to 8erv«
1 See illustrated description in Proeeedi^n
o/the ArchoBol, Dmt, of (hi if, W, F.
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ROUTE 10. DIG
185
18 a mosque, and is divided into 4 aisles
3y 5 TOWS of 16 pillars, 80 in all, from
(rhich it takes its popular name of
A88i Khamba, or the " Eighty Pillars."
Many of the capitals are curiously
carved with grotesque heads and squat
figures. Four of them are supposed
to represent by their sculptures the four
ages of the world. The pillar known
as the Surya Yug, or ** Golden Age,"
I is covered with rich and beautiful
I earring ; that known as the Dwapar
I Yug, or " Second Age " of the world is
adorned with almost equal profusion.
The Treta Yug, or "Third Age," is
more scantily carved ; while the Kali
Yofc or present "Iron Age" of the
world is represented by a crude un-
sculptured pillar.
In the Palace of Nanda are laid the
scenes of Krishna's infancy. His
cradle, a coarse structure covered with
red calico and tinsel, still stands in
the pillared hall, while a blue -black
image of the sacred child looks out
frcm under a canopy against the wall.
The chum in which Krishna's foster-
inotiier made butter for the household
is ^wn, and consists of a long bamboo
sticking out of a carved stone. A spot
in the wall is pointed out as the place
where the sportive milkmaids hid
Krishna's flute. One pillar is said to
have been polished by his foster-
mother's hand, as she leant against it
when churning, and others have been
equally polishwi by the hands of genera-
tions of pilgrims.
From the top of the roof there is a
view over mounds of ruins, with the
Jmnna beyond showing its waters, at
intervals, amid an expanse of sand,
high grasses, and rugged ravines.
Mahab^ is still a very popular place
of pilgrimage among the Hindus. Thou-
sands of Vishnu worshippers, with yel-
low-stained clothes, yearly visit the
scenes of the infancy of the child-cod.
The anniversary of Krishna's birth is
celebrated during several days in the
month of Bhadon (August) by a vast
concourse of people.
The riverside village of Gokul, where
Vishnu first appeared as Krishna, has
few relics of antiquity. Its shrines and
temples are quite modem. It is ap-
proached, however, by a lofty and
oeautiful flight of steps (ghat) from the
river, and for more than three centuries
it has been the headquarters of the
Vallabhacharya sect, or Gokulastha
Gusains, whose founder preached here.
Many thousands of pilgrims, chiefly
from Guzerat and Bombay, yearly re-
sort to this centre of their faith, and
have built numerous temples of a
rather tasteless type.]
[From Muttra a traveller with plenty
of time may make an expedition to Dig,
or Deeg, a town in the territory of the
Rajah of Bhurtpur, 24 m. W. from
Muttra by a good road, and should he
be going S., he might rejoin the railway
at Bhurtpur, 22 m. farther ; but he
should make all arrangements for the
journey before leaving Muttra. At the
village of OoTardhaa, about 14 m., is
a celebrated hill, which was upheld
by Krishna on one finger to shelter
the cowherds from a storm excited by
Indra as a test of Krishna's divinity.
Here, on' the rt, is the burial-place of
the Bhurtpur Rajahs, a striking group
of tombs, temples, and ghats buut on
the margin of two vast tanks, one of
which, called the Munusa Gunga, is
the resort of thousands of pilgrims
during the annual autumn fair. The
chief chattris are those of Buldeo Sing,
and of Suraj Mall, the founder of the
dynasty, and his wives ; also of Rand-
hir and Bala Diva Sing. Most of them
show good specimens of carving. Fer-
gusson says of one of the temples, built
in Akbar's reign : * * It is a plain edifice,
135 ft. long bv 35 ft. wide, externally,
and both in plan and design singularly
like those Early Romance churches
that are constantly met with in the S.
of France, belonging to 11th and 12th
centuries."
For 3 m. before reaching Dig the
road forms a sort of causeway above a
very low, flat country.
At Dig 30c (or Deeg) the chief object
of interest is the splendid Palace, or
rather group of palaces, built by Suraj
Mall of Bhurtpur. Though his grand
design was never completed, it surpasses
all the other fortified palaces in the
Rajput states for grandeur of conception
Digitized by VjOOQIC
186
ROUTE 10. AGRA TO RINDRABAN
India
and beaulnr of detail Fergusson greatly
admires this palace, and says : '* The
glory of Deeg consists in the cornices,
which are generally double, a peculiarity
not seen elsewhere, and which for extent
of shadow and richness of detail surpass
any similar ornaments in India, either
in ancient or modem buildings. The
lower cornice is the usual sloping en-
tablature almost universal in such
buildings. . . . The upper cornice,
which washorizontal, is peculiar to Deeg,
and seems designed to furnish an ex-
tension of the flat roof which in Eastern
palaces is usually considered the best
apartment of the house ; but whether
designed for this or any other purpose,
it adds singularly to the richness of
the effect, and by the double shadow
affords a relief and character seldom
exceeded even in the East." The chief
pavilions are the Qopal Bhawan (where
travellers are allowed to lodge, and from
the roof of which there is a fine view),
which stands E. of the fine Kachcha
Tank ; the Nand Bhawan, N.E. of this,
a fine hall 20 ft. high; the Snraj
Bhawan, S., 88 ft. long; the Harde
Bhawan, W. ; and the ElBhn Bhawan,
S.E. All these are highlv decorated,
and between and around them are
lovely gardens. Beyond and adjoining
the gardens is the large Bnp Sangar
Lake.
The W. gate of the Fort (there are
two gates) is i m. from the Gopal
Bhawan : it has 12 bastions, and a ditch
50 ft. broad. Beyond this is a natural
mound, about 70 ft. high, and beyond
that a building which serves as a prison.
The walls are very massive and lofty.
There are 72 bastions in alL On the
N.W. bastion, about 80 ft. high, is a
very long cannon.
Dig is celebrated for the battle fought
on the 18th November 1804, in wmch
General Frazer (see Mill, vol. vi. p. 593)
defeated Jeswant Rao Holkar's army.
The British took 87 pieces of ordnance
in this battle, and lost in killed and
wounded about 850 men. The remains
of Holkar's army took shelter in the
fort of Dig.
On the 1st December following. Lord
Lake joined the army before Dig, and
immediately commenced operations to
reduce that town. On the night of the
23d his troops captured an eminence
which commanded the city, but not
without considerable loss, llie enemy,
however, evacuated Dig on the follow-
ing day and the fort on the succeeding
night, and fled to Bhurtpur.]
6 m. from Muttra is Bintaiban sta.
(properly, Vrindaban literally, a forest
of tulsi plants), the place to which
Krishna removed from Gokul.
There is no reason to believe that
Bindraban was ever a ^eat seat of
Buddhism. Its most ancient temples,
four in number, date only from the 16th
cent., '* while the space now occupied
by a series of the laigest and most
magnificent shrines ever erected ii
Upper India was 500 years ago an
unclaimed belt of woodland (see
Growse, p. 174). The four chief temples
are those of Gobind Deva, Gopi Nath,
Jugal Kishor, and Madan Mohan. Bin-
draban is famous as the place where
Krishna sported with the Gopis (milk-
maids), and stole their clothes when
they were bathing. The Jumna bounds
the town to the E., and winds
pleasantly round it. At the entrance
to the town, on the left, is the large
red temple, datine firom 1590, sacred
to Oobind Deva, which was almost de-
stroyed by Aurangzib, but has been
somewhat restored by the British
Government. ** It is one of the most
interesting and el^nt temples in
India, and the only one, perhaps,
from which an European architect
might borrow a few hints. The
temple consists of a cruciform porch,
•ntemally nearly quite perfect, tnongh
externally it is not quite clear how it
was intended to be finished. The cell,
too, is perfect internally— used for
worship — ^but the sikra is gone, possibly
it may never have been completed.
Though not large, its dimensions are
respectable, the porch measuring 117
ft. E. and W. by 105 ft. N. and S.,
and is covered by a true vault, built
with radiating arches — the onij iii-
stance, except one, known to exist ii
a Hindu temple in the N. of India
Over the four arms of the cross the vadb
is plain, and only 20 ft span, but ik
the centre it expands to 85 ft., and Ii
Digitized by VjOOQIC
J
ROUTE 11. DELHI TO SIMLA
187
fflite equal in design to the best
(othic yaulting known. It is the
crtemal desi^ of this temple, how-
<Fer, which is the most remarkable.
"he angles are accentuated with sin-
jTilar force and decision, and the
tpenings, which are more than suffi-
;ient for that climate, are picturesquely
irranged and pleasingly divided. It
is, however, the combination of vertical
withhorizontal lines, covering the whole
surface, that forms the great merit of
the design" (Fergusson, Arch.)
E. is a modern Temple^ built by Seth
Badha Krishna and Seth Govind JDas
in the Dravidian style. Europeans are
not allowed to enter. The temple con-
sists of a vast enclosing wall, with three
gopuras, which are 80 to 90 ft. high,
while the gates are about 56 ft. Above
the "W. gate is a terrace, commanding
a view of the temple.
This temple is dedicated to Shri
Ranga, a name of Vishnu ; and figures
of Gamda, the man-bird of ViSinu,
are very conspicuous. In the great
court are two white marble pavilions,
one E. and one W. of the tank ; and a
stone pavilion with a flat roof, sup-
ported by sixteen pillars, opposite the
E. gopura.
At the back of a temple which is
of red stone (repaired in 1877 by the
Brit. Gov.), and adjoining it on the
W., are, at two corners, two other
temples which resemble each other.
Thwe is a new temple adjoining this
to the W., built by a Bengali Babu.
It IB not tasteful, but has a finely-
carred door.
The Ma4laB Mohan Temple stands
above a ghat on a branch of the river.
Uider two fine trees, a Metis indica and
a Naudea orientalis, is a pavilion, in
which many cobras' heads are repre-
seoted. Shiva is said to have struck
peri with a stick here, when she
jumped o£f this ghat, and made it a
^aee for curing snake bites. There is
here a Salagram (a species of Ammonite
wcnrdiipped as a type of Vishnu), with
two footprints, 2Jin. long. This temple
it 85 ft. high, and is in the shape of a
The Temple of €h>pi Nath is thought
liy Mr. Growse to be the earliest of the
series. It was built by Raesil Ji, who
distinguished himself under Akbar.
It resembles that of Madan Mohan,
but is in a ruinous condition. Its
special feature is an arcade of three
bracket arches.
The Temple of Jngal Eishor is at
the lower end of the town, near the
Eesi Ghat. It is said to have been
built by Nou-Earan, a Chauhan chief,
in 1627 A.D. The choir has pierced
tracery in the head of the arcn, and
above it a representation of Erishna
supporting the hill of Govardhan.
The Temple of Badha Ballabh.—
The shrine was demolished by Aurang-
zeb. The ruins are fine.
KOUTE 11
Dblhi to Umealla, Ealka, and
Simla
There are two railway routes from
Delhi to Uniballa.
(a) The direct line on the right or
W. bank of the Jumna river through
Paniput and Eurnal, 122 m.
(b) The line on the E. bank of the
river, crossing it twice, and passing
through Ghaziabad, Meerut, and Sa-
haranpur, 162 m.
Leaving the central station at Delhi,
the railway proceeds over a vast plain to
54 m. Panipnt sta., D.B. Pop.
27, 547. The modern town stands near
the old bank of the Jumna, upon a high
mound consisting of the d^bns of earlier
buildings. In the centre the streets are
well paved, but the outskirts are low and
squalid. There are the usual civil offices.
The town is of very great antiquity, being
one of the places called j^ofe, ovprasthasy
demanded of Duryodhana by Yudish-
thira, about 1100 B.o. It is famous
for being the place where three of the
most decisive battles in India have
been fought ; but the silent plain tells
no tale, and shows no sign of the events
that have happened on it.
Here on the 21st April 1526
Babar encountered Ibrahim Lodi.
On the night before the battle Babar
had sent out 5000 men to make a
night attack on the Afghan army.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
188
ROUTE 11. DELHI TO SIMLA
Indii
but this had failed, owing to a
delay on the part of the attacking
force, which did not reach the enemy s
camp tiU dawn. With the first stretUiLS
of light next day the Mogul pickets
reported that the Afghans were ad-
vancing in battle array. Babar im-
mediately prepared for action, and
appointed commanders to each divi-
sion. On the ri^ht and left of the
whole line he stationed strong flanking
parties of Moguls, who, when ordered,
were to wheel round, and take the
enemy in flank and rear. When the
Afghans arrived at the Mogul lines
they hesitated for a moment, and
Babar availed himself of their halting
to attack them, at the same time
sending his flanking parties, to wheel
round and charge them in the rear.
Babar's left wing was roughly handled,
but he supported it by a strong de-
tachment from the centre, and the
Afghans in the end were driven back.
On the right too the battle was ob-
stinately contested. Babar*s artillery,
however, was very effective, and at
last the Afghans fell into confusion.
They maintained the battle till noon,
when they gave way in all directions.
The rest was mere pursuit and slaughter.
According to Mogul accounts, 15,000
Afghans were left dead on the field of
battle, and those who fled from the
field were chased as far as Agra. The
body of Ibrahim Lodi was found the
same afternoon with 6000 or 6000 of
his soldiers lyin^ in heaps around him.
Babar reached Delhi on the third day
after the battle, and on the Friday
following his name as Epmeror was
read in the public prayers at the
Grand Mosque.
The Second great Battle was fought
in the latter part of 1556 A.D., when
the youthful Akbar, who had just suc-
ceeded his father the Emperor Huma-
yun, defeated Himu, the general of
Sultan Muhammad Shah 'Adil, nephew
of Sher Shah. Himu had 50,000
cavalry, and 500 elephants, besides
infantry and guns; but afte. a well-
contested battle he was wounded in
the eye by an arrow, taken prisoner,
and put to death. This battle was
decisive of the fate of the Afghan
dynasty called the Sur, and estabUshei
the fortunes of the House of Timur.
The Third Battle took place on thi
7th of January 1761 A.D., when th(
whole strength of the Marathas wai
crushed with terrible slaughter V
Ahmad Shah Durani. All the Ma
ratha chieftains of not€, Ho]
Sindia, the Gaekwar, the Peshwa'i
cousin and son, were present wil
their forces. The Maratha army is
said to have amounted to 15,000 in-
fantry, 55,000 cavalry, 200 guns, and
Pindaris and camp-followers, number-
ing 200,000 men. The Afghan force
consisted of 38,000 infantry, 42,000
cavalry, and 70 guns, besides numerom
irregulars ; but the Marathas had al-
lowed themselves to be cooped up in
their camp for many days. They we«
starving, and on the morning of tbe
battle Siey marched out with the ends
of their turbans loose, their heads and
faces anointed with turmeric, and witii
every other sign of despair. Seodashec
Rao, the cousin and generalissimo of
the Peshwa, with Wishwas Rao, the
Peshwa's eldest son, and Jeawant Bao
Powar, were opposite the Afghm
Grand Yazir. The great standard oi
the Maratha nation, the Bhagm
Jhtmda, floated in the Maratha van, ad
there were three Jaripatkas, or Grand
Ensigns, of the Peshwa in tlxe field.
The Marathas made a tremendod
charge full on the Afghan centreJ
and broke through 10,000 cavali)
under the Vazir, which unwisely re
ceived them without advancing.
The dust and confusion were so greil
that the combatants could only dis
tinguish each other by the war-cry
The Vazir Shah Wali Khan, who wai
in full armour, threw himself firom hi
horse to rally his men, but most o
the Afghans gave way.
Ibrahim Khan Gardi, who com
manded the Maratha artillery, brok
the Kohillas, who formed the right wii||
of the Mohammedan army, and kille
or wounded 8000 of them. Ahmai
Shah now evinced his generalship!
he sent his persoi^al guards to rally ta
fugitives, and ordered up his reserves i
support the Vazir. In this protra<^
and close struggle the physical strengfj
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROtTTE 11. KURNAL — THANESAR
18&
<f the Afghans was an overmatch for
he slighter frames of the Hindus.
A little after 2 p.m. Wishwas Rao
ras mortally wounded, and Seo-
tasheo Rao, after sending a secret
nessage to Holkar, charged into the
hickest of the fight and disappeared.
iVhatever the message to Holkar was,
it proved instantaneously fatal, for he
went off and was followed by the
Gaekwar. The Marathas then fled ;
thousands were cut down, and vast
numbers were destroyed in the ditch
of their entrenchment. The village
of Paniput was crowded with men,
women, and children, to whom the
Afghans showed no mercy. They took
the women and children as slaves, and
after ranging the men in lines, amused
themselves with cutting off their heads.
76 m. Eumal sta., D.B. Pop.
23,000. This town is traditionally of
ereat antiquity, being said to have been
founded by Rajah Kama, champion of
the Eauravas, in the great war of the
Mahabharata. It was seized by the
Rajas of Jind in the middle of the 18th
centui7,and wrested from them in 1795
by the adventurer George Thomas. It
was conferred bv Lord Lake in 1803
upon Nawab Munammad Ehan, a Man-
cm Pathan. A British cantonment was
mamtained here until 1841, when it Was
alandoned, probably owing to the un-
healthiness of the site, as the W. Jumna
Canal, passing the city, intercepts the
dninage and causes malarious fever. A
will 12 ft. high encloses the town. The
streets are narrow and crooked, and the
water is impure. Jacquemont speaks of
this town as " an infamous sink, a heap
of every sort of uncleanliness. " He
ajds; "I have seen nothing so bad in
Iidia, and it is fair to mention that
amon^ the natives its filth was pro-
verbid It has, however, a handsome
mufue overtopping the wall, which is
worth a visit. A government Stud
fann for horse breeding has been
titoblished in the old barracks. There
lifidr small game shootine.
Komal is famous as bemg the place
wktm Nadir Shah defeated the Mogul
Smperor Muhammad Shah in 1739.
fii had surrounded his camp with
VrtKBchments, which appeared so for-
midable to Nadir that he would not
permit his soldiers to attack them.
The battle lasted two hours, 20,000 of
the Indian soldiers were killed, and a
much greater number taken prisoners.
An immense treasure, a number of ele-
phants, part of the artillery of the
emperor, and rich spoils of every de-
scription fell into Nadir's hands. The
Persian loss is variously stated at from
500 to 2500 killed. The next dav
Muhammad Shah surrendered himself
to Nadir, who marched to Delhi, and
after a massacre in the streets and a
58 days' sack returned to Persia with a
booty estimated at £32,000,000.
97 m. Thanesar, D.B. As many as
100,000 persons have been known to
assemble here on the occasion of an
eclipse of the moon, when it is believed
that the waters of all other tanks visit
the one here, so that he who bathes in
it at the moment of eclipse obtains the
additional merit of bathing in all the
others. The Tank is about 1 m. from
the rly. sta. (To reach it, it is necessary
to pass through part of the town, see
below.) It is an oblong sheet of water
3546 ft. in length, and is not only the
centre of attraction to pilgrims, but
also the haunt of innumerable wild-
fowl from the pelican to the snipe. It
is surrounded by temples in every stage
of decay, overshadowed by great trees,
and flights of dilapidated steps lead
down to the water on all sides. On
the W. a causeway stretches out to an
island where, partly hidden by trees,
the most perfect of the temples stands.
The ruins of this causeway extend
farther S. to the remains of other
temples. Around the tank for many
miles is holy ground, and popular belief
declares the holy places connected with
the Pandovas and Kauravas and other
heroes to be 360 in number.
The Town is about J m. N. of the
tank, and beyond it are extensive re-
mains of the Mohammedan Fort. The
chief building of interest, and that in
best repair, is the white-domed Tomb of
Shaik Chihli It is an octagon ot
drab-coloured marble, lighted by trellis-
work windows of fine design. It stands
upon a small octagonal platform in the
centre of a larger onen^a square — sur-
Digitized by VjOOQ IC
190
ROUTE 11. DELHI TO SIMLA
IndiA
U
rounded by cupolas. In the centre of
the W. side is a small pavilion with
deep eaves. It also forms a tomb.
S.W. from here, within a stone's
throw, is a small mosque of red sand-
stone (the Lai Mnsjid), supported on 8
columns. The carving on the domes and
elsewhere is very beautiful and resembles
that at Fatehpur-SikrL Some of the
trees in the neighbourhood are very
fine. Between this and Delhi — round
about Paniput — ^the rly. passes through
the country which from the earliest
times formed the battle-field of India,
and the scene where, over and over
again, her fate has been decided.
123 m. Umballa Cantonment junc.
sta. UmballaCityandCiYUStationsOc
are 5 m. farther W. (total pop. 79,000).
The important cantonments were formed
in 1843 : they cover 7220 acres, and are
laid out with good roads and fine trees.
The centre is occupied by the bungalows
of the residents, and to the W. are the
military lines, and the whole is sur-
rounded by extensive Maidans.
The Bace-cotme is on the E. Maidan,
Paget Park, a favourite resort, is on the
N. There are several good European
shops in the town, which is a second-
class municipal town, and the capital
of a district.
The Church, which is in the Grothic
style, was consecrated in 1857, and is
one of the finest, if not the finest, in
India. There is also a Presbyterian
Church, a Hospital, Charitable Dispen-
sary, and a Leper Asylum.
Umballa and its neighbourhood are
intimately connected with the earliest
dawn of Indian history. The strip of
country included between the Saras-
wati and Drishadvati (Sarasouti and
Ghuggar) is "the Holy Land" of the
Hindu faith, the first permanent home
of the Aryans in India, and the spot in
which their religion took shape. Hence
the sanctity, even in modem times, of
the waters of the Sarasouti, to which wor-
shippers flock from all parts of India.
35 m. (from Umballa) Kalka sta., 3^
D.B. (R.), the terminus of the railway
at the foot of the hills, 2400 ft. above
sea-level. Passengers for Kasauli and
Simla here separate*
(1) For Kasauliy travellers take a
jhampan or pony and follow the old
Simla road (a bridle-path).
9 m. Kasauli. 3^ This is a canton-
ment and convalescent dep6t on the
crest of a hill overlooking the Ealka
Valley, and 6322 ft. above sea-level.
The views from Kasauli are very
grand and extensive.
This road continues on through
Jutogh (see below) to Simla (41 m. from
Ealka).
[3 m. off across a valley the road rises
to Sanawar, which, however, is not
quite so high as Kasauli
Here is the Lawrence Military Asy-
lum. From it may be seen Dugsbai
and Sabathu, and in the far distance
Simla. The ground was made over toj
the Asylum in 1858, in fulfilment of
the wish of Sir H. Lawrence. There
are separate barracks for boys, girls,
and infants, and a chapel. Children
of pure European parentage take pre-
cedence as candidates for admission, as
more likely to suffer from the climate
of the plains, except in the case of
orphans, who have the preference over
all others. The boys qualify for the
service of Government in various de-
partments. A local committee manages
the College.]
(2) The tonga-road from Kalka to
Simla runs E. of the old road; thft
stages are as follows : —
Name of Stage.
Ealka to Dharmpur
Dharmpur to Solon
Solon to Keri Ghat
Keri Ghat to Simla
Total .
Distance.
. 15 mfles.
. 12 »
. 15 „
. 15 „
. 57 miles.
The road to Dharmpur is narrow.
[From Dharmpur a road strikes left to
(10 m.) Sabathn, which lies between
the two roads, and is a consnicuous
object from Simla.] After leaving
Dharmpur, there is an excellent road
to the military station of Solon, ^
where is a neat D.B. on the E. The
last 3 m. is a very sharp descent. From
Solon it is one long ascent round pro-
jecting rocks : the tongas go fast, the
drivers blowing their horns, which is
necessary, as strings of mules and carts
are continually passed. For the last
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 11. SIMLA
191
I winds along the E. side
Ue^s, and in places there are
i which gradually increase in
'" the Eeri Ghat D.6. is
im building is perched over
«nt of 1600 or 2000 ft. The
kes about 7 hrs. by tonga.
om the plains the cold of the
J rather trying.
. 3^ The land upon which
ads was retained by the
Dvemment as a sanitarium at
f the Gurkha War in 1816-16,
of the surrounding district
to the natives. Lieut.
, the first residence, a
^^^ wooden cottage, in 1819.
-"^ »sor, Lieut Kennedy, in 1822
_/lg^ mnanent house. OtneroflScers
' ^ the example, and in 1826 Simla
i settlement. In 1829 Lord
spent the summer there, and
t date the sanitarium grew
favour with Europeans,
government of Sir John
in 1864, Simla has been
&er capital for India. As
ihe hot weather sets in, the
Mit officers and Viceroy quit
For Simla, which is deserted in
r. The European residences
y r"' fer a ridge in a crescent shape,
-^ 18 from W. to E. for a distance
\m.
toot of this ridge is a precipi-
pt, in some places a complete
ff about 1000 ft., leading down
, which is watered by several
B the Gumbhar and the
which are tw^o waterfalls.
there are the Pahar, the
and the Sarsa streams.
bazaar road cuts off one
from another. The E.
led Chota Simla, the W. is
The ridge running N,,
with oaks and rhododen-
led Elysium. On the
the station is Jutoghf a
; on the top of a lofty
\\ m. to the E.
Prospect HUl, 7140 ft.
which is the W. point
nt of which we nave
to the £. of this hill is
Peterhoff, the old residence of the
Viceroy, with Observatory Hill and
the fine OovemmerU House on it 3
furlongs to the W.
The United Sermee Cflub lies 600
ft. due S. of Combermere Bridge
on the slopes of Jako, a hill 8048 ft.
above sea -level. The Bandstand is a
little way to the S. of the Club ; and
the Mayo Orphanage is at the N.E.
comer of Jako.
The Public Institntioiui at Simla
comprise the Bishop Cotton School,
the Punjab Girls' School, the Mayo
Orphanage, a Roman Catholic Con-
vent, and a handsome Town Hall,
besides the QoTenundnt Offices. These
occupy several fine blocks of building.
In one are the offices of the Accountant-
General, the Public Works Secretariat,
the offices of the Executive Engineer,
the Superintendent of Works, the
Director-General of Railways. Another
building contains the Legislative and
Home Departments, the office of the
Surgeon-General of H.M. Forces, the
Commissariat Department. Another
block is occupied by the Judge Advo-
cate-General's office, the office of H. E.
the Commander-in-Chief, the Quarter-
master-General's office, the Intelligence
Branch, and the Revenue and Agricul-
tural Departments. Above are the
Adjutant-Greneral's office, the Meteoro-
logical Department, the Survey of
India, and many other offices. About 2
m. from these buildings is the Foreign
Office. Not far from it is the General
Post-Office and the Telegraph Office.
In the Court House are the various law
offices. The Town Hall contains the
Municipal Offices and the Station
Library. This building also has a
theatre, a concert -room, and a fine
ballroom. A few minutes' walk from
the Town Hall is
Christ Church at the foot of Jako Hill.
The scenery at Simla is of peculiar
beauty ; it presents a series of magni-
ficent views, embracing on the S. the
Umballa Plains with the Sabathu and
Kasauli HiUs in the foreground, and
the massive block of the Chor, a little
to the E. ; while just below the
spectator's feet a series of huge ravines
lead down into the deep valleys which
Digitized by VjOOQIC
192
ROUTE 11. DtetHI TO SIMLA
InMa
score the motmtain sides. Northwards
the eye wanders over a network of
confused chains, rising range aboTe
range, and crowned in the distance by
a crescent of snowy peaks standing out
in bold relief against the clear back-
ground of the sky. The rides and
walks will furnish endless amusement
to the visitor, who, however, will do
well to be cautious, particularly as
regards the animal he mounts. A
number of people have been killed by
falling over precipices at this station,
and many more have had narrow
escapes of their lives.
Anaadald is a fairly extensive plain,
in a vaUey 1200 ft. below the ridge
on the N.W. of the station. The
Race-cowrse surrounds it, and it con-
tains the Ptiblic Gardens, the Cricket
Groimd, and some very fine trees. This
is 'the spot where all open-air meetings
are held. West again of Anandale is the
Glen, a charming wooded valley with
some grassy slopes and fine timber. The
dripping rock snould be looked for in it.
The distances at Simla, taken from
Christ Church, are — Round Jako, 5
m. ; Boileaugaiy, 2| m. ; to the end
of Chota Simla, 2 m.
From Simla the traveller may make
an expedition to, 4 m., Mnshobra, a
pleasant place to spend a few days,
and to
Narkanda and Kotgarh, D.B. There
he will be rewarded by seeing some
grand scenery. The stages are as
follows : —
Names of Stages.
M.
Above Sea-lereL
Mahasu fh)ra Simla
10
8200 ft.
Phagu .
16
8200,,
Theog .
22
7700,,
Matteana
33
7720 „
Narkanda . .
45
9000,,
Kotgarti .
54f
6600,,
J
At Phagu, D.B., iu the territory
of the Rana of Kotah, is a magnificent
view of the snowy range.
10 m. E. of Theoi^ are the Kot
Khai iron-mines.
Narkanda, D.B., splendid view.
53} m. Kotgarh.
[Soltanpur, the old residence of the
Sultans of Kulla, In the KuUa VaUej, Is
approached by way of Simla ; it is a long Mfl
tedious expedition, but the scenery cannot l»
surpassed for grandeur, and the Deodar
Forests abound in pheasants and other game.
Farther up amongst the high peaks sportnnen
will find ibex and bears.]
MABGHBS FROM SIMLA TO SULTANPUR (KULLU).
^
Height
Dis-
tance.
1
From.
To.
above
Sea-
Accommodation.
Supplies.
Country.
Q
leveL
1
feet.
ms.
Simla Theog
Theog Mathiana
7000
Vil. good bungalow
Abundant
Good road
18
^1
7600
»1 M >'
)t
ru "_.
Mathiana
Narkanda
9600
t> >> »»
"
Fine view,
good road.
11
Narkanda
Kamaseu
„ „
"
AUdown
hill.
8
Kamaseu
Dalarsh
„ no bungalow
Limited
Cross Sut-
1^. Ascent
and des-
cent.
11
Dalarsh
Chawi
„ small bungalow
"
ridge.
'
Chawi
Kot
>< i> i>
•»
Cross val-
ley, steep
ascent and
9
'?
descent.
1
Kot
Jeebhi
»> >» •!
'»
Cross
Jaloripass
a0,600ft.)
11
Jeebhi
Manglaor
Laiji
Bajaora
M l» ■ l<
,,
8
Manglaor
VLaijf
6718
»
11
Bigaora
Snltanpur
4048
„ good bungalow
Abundant
9
I
ROUTE 11 A. SARDHANA
193
ROUTE llA
Delhi to Umballa by the E. bank
OF Jumna River— Meerut, Sar-
DHANA AND SaHARANPORE, for DeH-
RA Dun and Mussourie.
13 m. Qhariabadjupc. sta. :^ From
:hi8 point the E. I. Rly. runs S.E. to
Allahabad and Calcutta.
41 m. Heerut city sta.
44 m. Mbebut Cantonment sta. 3^
(The N.W, Rly. enters the cantonment
at the S.W.) The Oantonment of
Meemt is the headquarters of a division
of the army, and is noteworthy from
its size and importance, and because
the Mutiny of the Bengal Army inUpper
India began there. It was held all
through the Mutiny by a few British
troops, who kept order in the surround-
ing district Meerut is an ancient city
half-way between the Ganges and
Jnmna, and was raised from decay by
British patronage. It is an extensive
station, measuring 3^ m. from the rail-
way on the W., to the Police Lines on
the extreme E., traversed by the Mall
Road, one of the finest and broadest
roads in India, and 3 m. from where
the Bulandshahar Road, on the S.,
leaves the sta., to the end of Church
Street. The European Cavalry Bar-
racks are of remarkable extent.
St. John's Church, completed 1821,
in the Italian style, was the first church
erected in the Upper Provinces of India.
There are tablets m it to a great number
of officers who have been killed in
action or have died in Upper India.
The Cttnetery, which lies to the
N.W. of the church, is vast, and
divided into two parts — the new being
marked by crosses and English tombs,
the old by cupolas and pyramids. The
pilhir, 50 ft. high, was erected to Sir
K Rollo Gillespie, who subdued the
Mutiny at Vellore.
The Central Jail, completed in
1819, is capable of holding 4600
prisoners. The District Jail is a little
ferther to the E.
Temples, etc— The Sv/rc^ Kund,
commonly called by Europeans the
"Monkey Tank," is to the W. of the
Jaii " It was constructed by Jo>.dhir
Mull, a wealthy merchant of Lawar, '
[India]
in 1714. There are numerous small
temples, dharmsalas, and sati pillars
on its banks, but none of any note."
The Baleshwar Nath Temple is the
oldest in the district, and dates from
before the Moslem invasion. The
Dargahj in the Nau Chandi Mahallah,
is said to have been built by Kutbu-
din, from the remains of a Hindu
temple which he pulled down. The
Dargah of Shah Fir is a fine structure
of red sandstone, erected about 1620
A.D. by Nur Jehau, in memory of a
pious fakir of that name. The Jumma
Musjid is said to have been built in
1019 by Hasan Mahdi, Vazir of Mah-
mud Uhaznavi, and was repaired by
Humayun. The Makharah of Salar
Masaud Gliazi is attributed to Kutbu-
din Aibak in 1191. There are two
large Imamharahs, one near the Eam-
bou Gate, and another in the Zabidi
Mahallah, and an 'Idgahy on the Delhi
Road, built in 1600. There is a mosque
built by Nawab Khairandesh Khan in
the Saraiganj. And besides those already
mentioned, there are 62 mosques and
60 temples in the city, none of which,
however, deserve any particular notice.
Before reaching Sarahana the Ganges
Canal, made by Sir Proby Cautley, is
crossed.
51 m. Sardhana sta., D.B., is con-
nected with an adventurer named
Sombre or Sumroo, of French or Wal-
loon origin, who came out to India as
a carpenter in the French navy. He
became leader of a band of European
deserters and native Sepoys, whom he
brought to a state of discipline unusual
in native soldiers. After serving under
several native chiefs, but staying with
none of them long, he joined one
Gregory, an Armenian, who was high in
the favour of Mir Kasim, the Nawab of
Bengal. It was after the fall of Munger
that he did his employer the base service
of putting to death all the sixty English
prisoners who had been collected at
Patna (in 1763), a deed for which his
name will ever be held in abhorrence. He
nextjoined the Bhurtpur chief, and from
him finally went over to Najaf Khan,
from whom he received a grant of the
Parganah of Sardhana, then valued at
6 lakhs a year and to him he remained
Digitized by GoOgleO
194
ROUTE 11 A. DELHI TO UMBALLA
India
faithful for the rest of his life. He
died in 1778, and his Begam, originally
a Cashmere dancing-girl, viaa recognised
as Ms widow, and succeeded to his
domains and the command of his troops.
She became a Roman Catholic in 1784,
and married a French adventurer named
Le Vaisseau (1792), who having shown
himself incompetent to rule was in-
duced to commit suicide. The revolt
which he had caused was (jueUed by
the Begam, aided by an English servant,
George Thomas, and by a son of Sumroo,
Zafar yab Khan.' At his death, 1802,
the Begam ^ve his daughter in mar-
riage to Mr. Dyce, one of her officers,
afterwards known as Colonel Dyce
Sombre, who in 1862 married Lady
Mary Jervis, daughter of Earl St.
Vincent, afterwards Lady M. Forester.
The Begam was a woman of shrewd
ability, and after keeping up a good
understanding with the British Govern-
ment, her forces were received into
British pay.
E. of the town is a modern English
mansion, built 1834, and called the
Palace, with a ffrand flight of steps at
the entrance. It stands in a garden of
50 acres, and is commonly known as
the Eothi Dilkusha. Within will be
found two framed inscriptions record-
ing the charities of H.H. the Begam
Sombre in Sardhana. There are por-
traits of the Begam and her friends.
In one she is represented smoking, with
Dyce Sombre as a child beside her.
Also of George Thomas, General Ochter-
lony. Sir C. Metcalfe, Lord Comber-
mere, Colonel Boileau, General Ventura,
and the Begam's butler, etc.
The B. C. Cathedral is outside the
town on the S. It is an imposing
building, standing in an enclosure, sur-
rounded by an ornamental wall. By
the side entrance, on the rt., is the
Begam's white marble monument, made
at Home. Close by is the B. C. College,
a low masonry house, which was once
the Begam's own residence. It is in-
tended for the instruction of native
priests, and endowed by the Begam.
There are 60 pupils taught by the
Italian priest ana his curate. The
Begam's or Sumroo estates lapsed to
Government in 1835.
111m. Saharanpore junc. sta.,3^ (R.)
D.B. From here the Oudh and Rohil-
cund railway runs K to Hardwar, AU- I
garh, Lucknow, Ajodhya, and Benares
(see Rte. 16 ; good road to 42 m. Dehra
Dun, p. 256).
This municipal city, with a pop. of
68,300, is the headquarters of the Jumni
Canal establishment.
The town was founded in the reign
of Muhammad Tughlak about 1340.
It was called from Shah Haran Chisti,
whose shrine is still much visited by
Mohammedans. It was a favooiite
place of summer resort of the Mognl
court. In the reign of Shah Jehan a
royal hunting -seat, called Badshah
Mahal, was built by 'All Mardan Khan,
the projector of the Eastern Jqhuii
Canal. Unhappily the canal was
neglected during the decline of the
Mogul Empire, and was never of much
utility till the district came under
British rule. Sir P. Cautley recon-
structed it, since which time cultira-
tion has spread on every side.
There is an Anglican church, conse-
crated in 1858 ; and an American Pres-
byterian church, and a Mission from
that body. An old Rohilla fort is nsed
as a Court-House. A handsome modern
mosque has been erected on theplans of
the Jumma Musjid at DelhL Tne main
attraction to the traveller, however, will
be the extensive OoTemment Botanical
Qardens, where many valuable plants
have been acclimatised.
Near the entrance by the N. gate is
the Agricultural Garden, and beyond
it to the E. the Medicinal Garaen;
beyond this to the S. is the linnsBan
Garden. The main working divisions
are the horticultural department, the
Doab Canal tree nursery, the nurseries
for cuttings, bulbous plants, fruit trees,
and seedlings. There is a Hindu temple
and a tank and wcUs. The S.E. gate
leads to some saH monuments and
chattris.
Saharanpore is celebrated as the sta-
tion whence the Trigonometrical Sv-
yey of the Himalayas was commenced.
The snowy peaks add much sublimitr
to the view to the N.
161 m. Umballa Cantonment sta.
(see p. 190).
Digitized by VjOOQIC ,
ROUTE 12. UMBALLA TO LAHORE
195
ROUTE 12
Umballa to Lahore
17 m. Bajpnrajunc. sta. D.6. From
here a branch line runs S. W. 16 m. to
Patdala, and from that W. to Bhatinda
on the Rewari-Ferozepur line.
33 m. Sirhind sta. The name of
this town was formerly applied to a very
extensive tract, which included the Um-
balla district and the native states of
Patiala and Nabha. It is the place where
many Afghan princes of Shah Shiga's
family are buried ; in Cunningham's
ArdueologicaZ Survey, vol. ii. p. 205,
a very interesting account of it will be
found
It is mentioned by Firishtah as the
most eastern possession of the Brahman
kings of Kabul. After they were con-
quered by Mahmud, it became the
frontier town of the Moslems, whence
its name of Sirhind or Sar-i-hind,
"Frontier of Hind." It must have
been a place of importance as long
back as 1191 A.D., when it was taken
by Mnhammad Ghori and retaken by
Bai Pithora after a siege of 13 months.
At that early date it had a separate
governor.
For the century and a half that
intervened between the accession of
Akbar and the death of Aurangzeb,
Sirhind was one of the most flourishing
cities of the Mogul Empire. Many
tombs and mosques are yet standing,
and heaps of brick ruins surround the
old city for several miles. In 1709 the
city was taken and plundered by the
Skh chief Banda, who put the governor
Tazir Khan to death in revenge for the
nmrder of Guru Govind's family. In
1713, and again in December 1763,
%hind was taken and totally destroyed
by the Sikhs. Even to this day every
Sikh on passing through Sirhind carries
sway a brick, which he throws into the
SNiuej in the hope that in time the
detested city will thus be utterly re-
moved from the face of the earth. The
finest and oldest building is the
Tomb of Hir Miran. It is of stone,
and is surmounted by a large central
dome on an octagonal base, with a
smaller dome at each of the four corners
on a square base. Each of the four
sides is pierced by a recessed doorway
with a pointed arch covered by a second
loftier and larger arch. The dead walls
are relieved by squares of blue enamelled
tiles. The general effect is decidedly
good, and altogether this tomb is one
of the most pleasing and perfect speci-
mens of the later Pathan or earlier
Afghan architecture.
The Laxgdst Tomb is a plain brick
building. At the four comers are very
small turrets, which look mean beside
the lofty central dome of 40 ft. diameter
which crowns the building. The next
tomb in size is another red brick build-
ing, attributed to Khoja Khan, The
great dome is 36 ft. in diameter outside.
This building is probably of the 15th
century. There is a pretty little octa-
gonal Tomb of Pirbandi Nak8hwaIa(or
the painter). It is on open arches, and
is surmounted by the pear-shaped dome
of the Mogul period. The body of
the building is profusely covered with
paintings of flowers, and the roof with
glazed tiles, arranged so that the melon-
like divisions of the dome are marked
by dark blue lines, and the intervals
by coloured tiles laid herring-bone
fashion, beginning with yellowish pale
green at the top and ending with dark
green at the bottom. The only mosque
worth mentioning is that of Sadan
Kasaiy to the N. of the present town.
The W. end has fallen down. The
centre space is covered by a dome 45 ft.
in diameter.
The ffaveli or mBusion of Sahabat Beg
is perhaps the largest specimen of the
domestic architecSire ot the Moham-
medans of the Mogul Empire. It con-
sists of 2 great piles of brick, each 60
ft. Bq. and about 80 ft. high, connected
by high dead walls.
The great Sarai of the Mogul em-
perors is to the S.E. of the city. It is
now used as a public audience-hall by
the Patiala authoiities, and is called the
Amkhas. General Cunningham believes
that Sirhind was a flourishing town in
900 A.D. But its interest to the traveller
consists in its being a good place for
examining the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
196
ROUTE 12. UMBALLA TO LAHORE
IvMa
Great Sirhind Canal (opened in 1882),
the largest irrigation canal in the world.
It draws its water from the Sutlej at
Rupar (20 m. distant), and passing
through Ludhiana and Patiala, with
side branches to Nabha, Jind, and other
native states of the Punjab, eventually
joins the Jumna near Eumal.
71 m. Lndhiana st, D.6. This is
a municipal town and headquarters of
a district of the same name. (Pop.
46,000, of whom much the greater por-
tion are Mohammedans. ) it is a great
grain market, and famous for its shawls
made from Pashmina wool, also for the
manufacture of Rampur chudders. It
is situated near the S. bank of the
Sutlej, 8 m. from the present bed of the
river. The Fort lies to the N.W. of
the city, and a little to the S. of the
Fort is the Shrine of Pir-i-Dastgir, or
*Abdu 1 Kadir Gilani.
The Church and Public Gardens are
to the W. of the cantonment. There
has been an American Presbyterian
Mission here since 1840. Ludhiana
was founded in 1480 by two princes of
the Lodi family. In 1809 General
Ochterlony occupied it as Political
Agent for the CHs- Sutlej states, and
from 1884 to 1854 the town was a
military station. The troops were re-
moved in 1854, but a small garrison
was left to occupy the Fort.
The Fort is on an eminence. From
the flag -staff bastion there is a good
view of the Ferozepur road and the
adjoining country, with the city to the
E. There is an excellent well of good
water in the Fort, and bomb-proof
barracks for 500 men.
Most of the great battles of the first
Sikh War were fought between Ludhi-
ana and Ferozepur, including Moodki,
Ferozehah, Sobraon, and Aliwal.
The road from Ludhiana to, 16 m.,
Aliwal is so deep in sand that 4 horses
are required for a carriage. There is
there an O&e/isA: inscribed " Aliwal, 16th
January 1846;" repeated in Persian
and Gurmukhi.
The battle of Aliwal was fought on
the 28th January 1846 (see Cnnning-
mtoi^s Sikhs, p. 312).
103 m. Jullunder Cantonment sta., sCc
D.B. A municipal city, cantonment,
and headquarters of a district of tho
same name. The city itself (sta. 3 m.
farther N. ) has a pop. of 50, 000, of whom
the ^eater number are Mohammedans.
Anciently it was the capital of the Raj-
put kingdom of Eatoch before Alexan-
der's invasion. Hiouen Thsang, the
Chinese pilgrim of the 7 th century A.D.,
describes the town as 2 m. in circuit
Two ancient Tanks are all that is left
of the primitive city. Ibrahim Shah
of Ghazni conquered the city, and
under the Mogul Empire it formed the
capital of the country between the
Sutlej and the Bias. The modem city
consists of a cluster of wards, eacn
formerly surrounded by a wall. There
is a fine Sarai built by Karim Baklish.
The Church, J m. W. of the artillery
lines, is a long building without any
tower.
The American Presbyterian BUssion
maintains an excellent school. The
Cantonment, which is considered a
healthy one, was established in 1846,
and has an area of 1\ sq. m. Two regi-
ments and a battery of artillery are
stationed here.
The Public Gardens are in the mili-
tary cantonment, and are nicely laid
out.
It is a good district for sport. Pig-
sticking can be obtained quite near;
black buck are fairly plentiful, and
there is very good snipe-shooting.
[The native state of Kupurtiudla is
15 m. S.W. Good road.]
106. m. Jullunder City sta.
155 m. AMRTTSAR June. sta.,30c D.B.,
about J m. S. of the city. A branch
line from here goes N.E. 67 m. to
Pathankot for Dalhousie, etc. (see
below).
Amritsar is a city with a pop. of
136,500. It is the wealthiest and,
next to Delhi and Lahore, the most popu-
lous city of the Punjab, and the religious
capital of the Sikhs. It is also tibe ad-
ministi-ative headquarters of a district
It was founded in 1574 by Bam Das, the
Guru of the Sikhs, upon a site granted
by the Emperor Akbar around a sacred
Digitized by VjOOQIC
RO0Tfi 12. AMBITS^
197
tmk, from which the city takes its
lame, '* Pool of Immortality." Ahmad
Shah Durani destroyed it in 1761, blew
ip the temple, and defiled the shrines
¥ith bullock's blood. After his retire-
nent the city was divided amongst the
rarious Sikh chiefs, to each of whom
was assigned a separate ward. How-
ever, it gradually passed into the power
of the fihanji Misl, who retained the
supremacy till 1802. In that year
Rsmjit seized it, and roofed the great
shrine with sheets of copper gilt,
whence it was called the Golden Temple.
He also built on the N.W. the Fort of
Crovindgarh in order to overawe the
pilgrims, and surrounded the city with
a massive wall, the greater part of which
has been demolished since the British
occupation.
Amritsar is a centre of manufacturing
industry. Its staple was the weaving
of Cashmere shawls from the inner soft
wool of the goat, on which 4000 Cash-
meris were engaged, but most of them
are now employed in carpet factories.
JRampur chudders are also made here,
silk fabrics of solid texture and beauti-
ful patterns, and carpets (see below).
Carving in ivory employs many artists.
The materials for these manufactures
are, in a great measure, brought from
an parts of Central Asia, and the mer-
chants who bring them may be seen in
their national and highly picturesque
costumes about the town, but more
especially in the caravanserais, which
are well worthy of a visit ; and there
may be found Cashmeris, Afghans,
Nepalese, Bokharans, Beluchis, Per-
sians, Tircomans, Tibetans, Yarkandis,
and others. Besides the raw materials
they bring fine specimens of their own
national manufactures and embroideries,
which may be purchased from dealers
in this town as well as in the other
chief cities of India. Amritsar is also
the depdt for piece-goods, copper, brass,
etc, for the GentriU Asian markets.
Tlie City has 12 gates, of which the
only old one is that on the N. side
facing the Bam Bagh. On his way to
the Great Temple, called the Darbar,
or Golden Temple, in the centre of the
town, the traveller passes 2 large
modem Sarais, the Carpet Factory,
which surpasses any other in India,
and more than one small mosque ; then
through a deep archway in the centre
of the municipal buildings he enters
the Kaisar Bagh, where stands a white
marble statue of H.M. the Queen. At
the entrance to the temple precincts
stands the Clock Tower, which over-
looks the tank and the temple in the
centre. The view from here is wonder-
fully picturesque. Before visiting the
temple it wiU be necessary for the
visitor to take off his boots and put on
soft slippers provided for him at the
entrance on payment of a trifle. It is
also necessary for a policeman to accom-
pany him, in accordance with Govern-
ment rules. The Sacred Tank is sur-
rounded by a tesselated pavement^ of
white marble 24 ft. broad, with ribs of
black and brown, brought from Jeypore.
It is 470 ft. sq.^ The buildings sur-
rounding it are called Bungahs, and
are the houses of great chiefs who come
to worship. To the N. W. of the Darbar
Temple is that of Takht Akal Bungah
Sahib (see below), with a gilt dome,
and adjoining it, to the S., is the bungah
of Dhiyan Sing, a plain brick building.
Next to it on the S. is the gorgeous
bungah of Sher Sing, and in the same
direction beyond it and beyond the
small square in which are all those
already mentioned, is the bungah of
Lehna Sing. In the N.E. is the white
bungah of the Rajahs of Patiala and
Nabha, and beyond, outside the enclo-
sure, to the £., are the two gi^n-
tic minars of Mangal Sing's family,
called the Kam Garhiya Minars (see
below).
The Darbar or €h>ldeii Temple stands
in the centre of the tank on a platform
65 ft. sq. It is approached from be-
neath an archway on the W. side by a
white marble causeway 204 ft. long,
flanked on either side by gilded
standard lamps.
Except for the lower part of the walls,
which are of white marble (decorated
with modem inlaid work), the whole of
1 Along this pavement sit hawkers who tell
beads and miniature spear-heads and qaoits,
which the Sikhs are now content to wear in
their puggeries in place of the real weapons.
3 See Sir O. Birdwood> Industrial ArU
Digitized by VjOOQ
198
ROUTE 12. UMBALLA TO LAHORE
India
the buUding is encased in gilded copper,
its sides inscribed with verses from the
Gran^, written very distinctly in the
Punjabi character. It is entered by 4
doorways, one on each side. The doors
are plated with silver finely wrought.
That on the N. side is the only one
through which Europeans may pass.
The scene within is a most pictur-
esque one. The walls are richly gilded
and painted with representations of
flowers, etc. On the E. side is seated
the high priest, either reading from a
copy of the QrarUh which lies before
him on an ottoman, or waving a chauri,
whilst pilgrims enter and throw offer-
ings of cowries, money, or flowers into
a sheet spread in the middle of the
floor to receive them : then taking
their places around it they sit down
and join in chanting verses of the
sacred volume to the music of stringed
instruments.
Cups of sugar are presented to the
visitor, who may in return make an
offering of 1 r. On the roof above
there is a small but richly decorated
Shish Mahal or pavilion, where it is
said the Guru used to sit. The brooms
kept to sweep it out are made of pea-
cocks' feathers.
Returning to the gateway, which
has doors covered with massive silver
plates, a staircase will be found to
lead up to the Treasury, in which
is a large chest. This place has 31
pillars or poles of silver 9 ft. long and
4J- in. in diameter, and 4 larger ones.
In the chest are kept 3 gilt maces, a
pamkhah^ 2 chauriSy all with gilt
handles, a canopy^ weighing 10 lbs., of
pure gold, set with emeralds, rubies,
and diamonds, a pendant of gold,
a coloured plan of the temple and a
magnificent diadem of diamonds with
strings of pearls worn as pendants;
this was worn by Nau Nihal Sing.
There is also a sort of gilt arch 6 ft.
high. All these are used when the
Granth is carried in procession. In
one comer a large heap of Cowry shells
will be observed. They are offerings
made by pilgrims.
On the W. side of the small square
falsing the gateway is the Akal Bungah,
with its gilt dome. This temple was
{
built in the time of Arjun, the fifth
Guru. A low staircase leads to a room
with a projecting window. In the
room is a gilt ark, on the floor of which
are a number of things covered with a
cloth ; this is partly removed, and a
large sword is taken out and put into
the visitor's hand. It is a falchion 4 ft.
lon^ and widening towards the end.
It IS said to be the sword of Guru
Govind ; a mace also is shown, which
was wielded by one of the Gurus.
In the ark are also the vessels for initi-
ating new members into the Sikh Con-
federacy ; the rite of initiation is called
Pahal. There is the Charan Pahal, in
which the novice drinks the water that
has washed the feet of the Guru, and
has some of it sprinkled on his hair.
There is too the Shainshir PdhaZ, in
which the novice drinks water poured
on a sword, and has some of it sprinkled
over his hair.
The visitor by passing round to the
S. side of the enclosure can reach the
Darbar Garden, as it is called. It
is 30 acres in extent, and contains
pomegranate, orange, and other fruit
trees, a tank called Eaulsar, and several
small pavilions. At the S. end of the
garden is the picturesque Atal Tower.
The lower room is richly painted, and
is 30 ft. in diameter inside. Devotees
on entering shampoo the step of the
shrine with their hands. A staircase
leads up to 7 galleries ; there is then
a wooden ladder which ascends to an
8th, — the entire height of the building
is 131 ft.
This tower is dedicated to Atal Rai,
the younger son of iTar Govind, who
is said to have been reproved by his
father for raising the deceased child of
a widow to life. His father said that
his supernatural powers ought to be
displayed in punty of doctrine and
holiness of life, and not in miracles,
whereupon Atal Bai said that as a life
was required and he had withheld one,
he would yield up his own. He then
lay down and died ; see Cunningham's
Sikhs^ p. 68.
Outside the Temple enclosure on lie
E. are the Ramg^Mya Miliars, vast
and grand, but not handsome. The
one to the N. may be ascended. At
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ROUTE 12. LAHORS
199
the top there is a ^ood view, to the
N. W. taking in a white temple to Shiva
at the extremity of the city, built by
Sardar Tej Sing. To the N.E., at 1
m. off, St. Paul 8 Churoh is seen peep-
ing oat among woods, close to the
D. B. Govindgarh Fort appears to the
W. by N.
On the return drive pass out of the
Ram Bagh Gate (the only remaining
old one) of the city to the Kotwali
Chauk. The Kotwali, or Police Office,
has a handsome front. To the left is
the mosque of Muhammad Jan ; it has
three white domes and slender minarets.
Farther to the N. is the 'Idgah ; and
close to it is the mosque of Khan
Muhammad. To the right is a fine
tank, and } m. to the S. are the Public
Qardens, which are about 40 acres in
extent. In the centre is a pavilion in
which Ranjit Singh stopped when he
came to Amritsar. The grounds are
well laid out, and the creepers are
beautiful.
The Fort of GoYindgarh is a short
distance to the N.W. of the city. It is
garrisoned with a battery of artillery
and a company of British infantry. It
was built by Ranjit Sing in 1809, but
the fortifications were traced by the
French officers in his service on scien-
tific principles. There is nothing very
mteresting to the traveller.
Amongst other places worthy of
a visit if time permits are the Hall
Bazaar^ the Sariiook Shar Tank^ and
the GovemmeTU and Church Mission
Schools,
[14 m. to the S. of Amritsar is Tarn
Titfan, D.B., a place which is esteemed
very holy by the Sikhs. The traveller
will pay 15 rs. for his hired shigram^
and leave the city by the Chativind
Gate, which is the one to the S.E.
After 50 yds., the Hasli Canal is
crossed ; the road beyond is bad.
From this the Temple and Tower,
which are the sights of the place, are a
third of a mile distant. They are situ-
ated on the E. side of a magnificent
tank, which is kept fall of water from
the Ban Doab Canal. This tank was
made by Ranjit when he built the
tsmiile. The visitor will have to take
off his shoes and put on cloth slippers
before descending into the enclosure.
The lower room of the temple has been
handsomely painted with representa-
tions of trees, while the outside walls
have paintings of gods and goddesses.
The room has a corridor round it, on
the S. side of which is the GrarUhf
enveloped in silk wrappers, and fanned
by an official with a chauH.
This place was the residence of the
Guru Anun,and is older than Amritsar ;
unlike the temples at that city, it has
no writings on the walls. There is a
small pavilion with open sides on the
roof. The tank is said to possess
miraculous powers to cure the lepers
who can swim across it At its N. comer
is a tower built by Nau Nihal Sing.
The neighbourhood is famous as the
stronghold of the Sikhs, and the former
recruiting - ground for their army.
There is a leper asylum outside the
town, and a suburb inhabited by those
infected with the disease, from which it
is said the Guru Aijun himself suflfered. ]
[At Amritsar passengers for Dal-
housie, Chamba, Kangra and Dhurm-
sala change on to the Amritsar-
Pathankot Rly.
67 m. Pathankot terminus sta. (R.),
D.B. A picturesque town with a 16th
cent. Fort Here a tonga may be pro-
cured for, 34 m. , Doneira, D. B. Thence
by pony or dooly (in 12 hrs. from
Amritsar) to, 22 m., Dalhousie, 3^ a
charming hill-station and sanitarium
7700 ft above the sea, surrounded by
forests. The scenery is very fine,
especially in the neighbourhood of
Chamba, D.B., 12 m. distant.
The sceneiy in the Kangra Valley
(about 24 m. m the direction of Simla),
where tea is grown, is remarkably fine.
A hi^h ridge separates the Kangra from
the Kullu Valley E. (see Simla, Rte. II).]
184 m. Meean Meer sta. This is the
military station of Lahore.
187 m. LAHORE June, sta., :^ D.B. (R.
good). Lines run N.W. to Rawal Pindi
and Peshawar, and S.W. through Sind
to Karachi The rly. workshops are
very extensive, covering 126 acres ; over
2000 men are employed. Good houses,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
200
HOtJTB 12. tJMBALLA TO LAHORE
India
swimming bath, theatre, recreation
ground, and church are provided for the
employes. A tramway runs from the
rly. sta. to the native town 1 m. W.
The traveller wishing to see something of
Lahore in a short time should secure a
conveyance at the rly. sta. He should
then drive to the so-called Oharinff Cross
at the cross roads near the Punjab Club,
and driving E. along the Mall will pass (in
the order in which they are named), rt.
the entrance to the Lawrence Gardens:
1. the Punjab Club ; rt. the combined
Lawrence and Montgomery Halls; 1.
Government House, the residence of the Lt.-
Governor ; 1. Altchison or Chiefs* College,
3 m. further in the same direction is the
Meean Meer Cantonment (p. 206). Driving
along the Mall W. fi*om Charing Cross he will
pass several good shops ; 1. Nedou's Hotel ; 1.
Lord Lawrence's Statue ; rt. the Cathedral ;
1. the Chief Court and the Accountants*
Gnh's 0£Bce ; several Banks and then rt. the
Telegraph Office. Near a slight turn in the
road are 1. the Old and New Museums, and
the Post Office, and beyond, the entrance
to the Anarkali Gardens. Turning N. the
Government College and Small C. Courts
are passed rt ; 1. Deputy Commissioner's
Court, Model School and Government
School. Further B. are the Hospital, Mayo
Hospital, etc. Slightly deflecting N.W. the
Cemetery is passed 1., and a little further on
the road divides; thai leading to Shah
Dara (p. 206) across the bridge of boats, that
rt. works round by the Port, and the N. wall
of the city back to the rly. sta.
In the new Public Buildings of Lahore
an attempt has been made to adopt Hindu
and Mohammedan styles of architecture to the
requirements of modem buildings.
Lahore ^ is a municipal city, capital
of the Punjab, headquarters of the
Lt. -Governor and the Punjab Govt»,
and the seat of an episcopal see, and
headquarters of a district of the same
name (pop. 176,700). Tradition says
that Lahore was founded by Loh, the
elder son of Rama ; no mention of it,
however, is made by Alexander's his-
torians, and no Grseco-Bactrian coins
are found among the ruins.
The first reference to it is in the
Itinerary of the Chinese pilgrim Hiouen
Thsang, in the 7th cent. It seems then
to have been governed by a family of
Chauhan Rajputs, from whom it was
wrested by the Moslems of Ghazni, but
it did not attain to magnificence till
the reign of the Moguls. Akbar en-
larged and repaired the fort, and sur-
T ^.Tl^ornton's Lahore, and Syad Mahammad
Latif 8 Lahore give very full accounts of the
place.
rounded the town with a wall, portions
of which still remain, built into the
modern wall of Ranjit Singh. Jehangir
also often resided at LaLore, and during
his reign Arjun Mall, Guru of the Sikhs,
compiler of the Adi Granth, died in
prison here. The mausoleum of Jehan-
gir is at Shah Dara, 4 m. from Lahore
(see below). Shah Jehan built the
palace of Lahore. Anrangzib built the
great mosque, but in his time the city
began to decline, and was much ruined
by the invasions of Ahmad ShahDurani.
Under Ranjit Sing Lahore regained
some of its former splendour, and since
the period of the British rule, which
commenced in 1849, buildings have
greatly multiplied. Modem Lahore
covers an area of 640 acres, and is sur-
rounded by a brick wall 15 ft. high.
The moat nas been filled in and changed
to a garden, which encircles the city on
e very side except the north. A metalled
road runs round the rampart, and gives
access to the city by thirteen gates.
Within the ramparts that surround
the city, in the N. part of the enclosure,
and N. of the city itself, is the Citadel,
usually called the Fort. The Bavi
river flowing W. once washed the walls
of the city, and in 1662 m^de such
encroachments as to necessitate the
construction of a massive embankment
4 m. long. It now sweeps round
Lahore and passes to the S. at about
1 m. W. of the city.
The Tomb of Anar Kali, "Pome-
granate Blossom" (a name given to
a favourite lady in the harem of
Akbar, who was also called Nadirah
Begam, or Sharifu-nissa), is an octagon
cased in plaster and surmounted by a
dome. It was for many years used as
the church of the civu station. The
cenotaph, now placed at the K end
of the central chamber, is for some
reasons one of the most interesting
things to be seen in Lahore. It is
of the purest white marble, and the
words carved on it are so exquisitely
formed as to surpass anything of the
kind in India. On its face and sides
are inscribed the 99 names of God. Ob
the side, below the names of the Jkitft
I is written Majnun Salim AkhaTt ''The
I profoundly enamoured Salim, aoa of
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ROUTB 12. LABORS
201
ikbar/' Salim being the name of
Jehangir. Then foflows a Persian
iierse. The date, given in letters and
ii figures, corresponds to 1599. Akbar
died on the 13th October 1605, so that
this tomb may have been erected about
ive years before his death. On the W.
side is another date, above the words
'*In Lahore," corresponding to 1615,
and is probably the date of the building
of the tomb, while the other refers to
the death of Anar Kali. The story is
that Anar Kali was beloved by Salim,
and was seen by Akbu*, his father, to
smile when the Prince entered the
harem. As a punishment for this it
is said that she was buried alive ; and
the distich engraved on her sarcophagus
certainly indicates that Salim was her
lover.
The Cathedral is a cruciform build-
ing of brick, occupying a very central
site E. of the Telegraph Office.
The old building, called the SJiah
Chiragh is used as the Acconntant-
GeneraTs Office— the additions were
designed by Mr. Oldrid Scott
i m. N. of the Cathedral are the
Mayo HospUoU^ the MediccU School (the
largest in India), the Lady AitchUon
SospUaZ, and the Training Home for
Nur$es.
The Huseuin, called by the natives
'Aja'ib Garh, is near the Anar Kali
Gurdens. On a raised platform in
front of the entrance to the old build-
ing is the famous gun called the
Zunzamah, ''Hummer," but the word
also means a lion's roar. The Sikhs
called it the Bhangianwali Top, that
it the cannon of the Bhangi confeder-
acy. The gun was made by Shah Wali
Khan, Vazir of Ahmad Shah Durani,
and was used by him at the battle of
Paniput. After Ahmad Shah left India
it came into the hands of the Bhangi
Misl, and Bairjit eventually got posses-
sion of it, and used it at the siege of
Mooltan in 1818. It was then placed
at 1^ Delhi Gate of Lahore until 1860,
when it was removed to its present
site. The Persian inscriptions on it
give the date of casting, 1762 A.D.
The Museum contains specimens of
the antiquities, arts, manufactures, and I
raw products — vegetable, mineral, and
animal — of the Punjab.
In the archaeological department
there is a stone with an inscription of
the time of King Gondophares, who is
said to have pnt St Thomas to death ;
the bases or 2 pillars brought by
General Cunningham from Shah ka
Dera, which he thinks to be the ancient
Taxila; numerous Buddhist sculptures
from the Yusufzai country and else-
where, in which Greek influence is
plainly discerned ; an "ancient Hindu"
(more probably Buddhist) nillar about
9 ft. high, with a huge beaa projecting
on one side, dug up near Jhelum ; also
two old brass cannon found buried in a
mound of Anandpur in the district of
Hoshiyarpur, thought to be of the time
of Guru Govind. There are only two
relics of the prehistoric age. They are
two finely finished celts found in Swat,
of porphyritic greenstone. The coins
are kept in a strong box, and can be
seen on application to the Curator.
There is a series of portraits, repre-
senting prinnesand chiefs of the Paiyab ;
they are by an Indian artist, and as
specimens of art cannot be much praised.
Among ornaments worn by the people
may 1^ noticed the perdk, a sort of
coif used by maidens in lahaul and
Spiti, in which a number of turquoises
are sewn. There is also a good collec-
tion of musical instruments of the
country ; specimens of pottery and
Pui^'ab glass, and of the Koftgari work
of Gujrat and Sialkot ; cups and orna-
ments of vitreous enamel from Bahawal-
pur; silver inlaid in pewter, and
perforated metal -work from Delhi.
Observe too a da^er with small pearls
set loosely in theblade.
There are good specimens of the silk
manufactures of Bahawalpur and Mool-
tan, and the satinettes are excellent.
Also a curious embroidery of soft floss
silk on cotton called shishdar phulkariy
interspersed among which are small
mirrors ; rude idols hideously painted,
which were worshipped b^ the ladies of
the Sikh Court ; an exhibition of the
leathern ware of the Pan jab ; a collec-
tion of ethnographical heads by Messrs.
Schlagentweit ; lay figures habited in
the costumes of the people of Lahaul,
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202
BOUTE 12. UMBALtA ITO LAHORE
India
Spiti) and Ladakh ; and Thibetan
curiosities, such as prayer- wheels.
In the mineral section will be seen
the model of the Koh-i-Nur, made
for the Exhibition of 1861. According
to the Hindus, this diamond belonged
to Kama, King of Anga, and according
to the Persians, it and its sister
diamond the Darya-i-Nur, or " Sea of
Light," were worn by Afrasiyab. The
Sea of Light is now at Teheran in the
Shah's treasury, which contains the
finest jewels in the world. It is said
that Nadir brought the Koh-i-Nur from
Delhi, and when he was killed it fell
into the hands of Ahmad Shah Durani,
and from him it descended to Shah
Shuja'a, his grandson, from whom Ran-
jit took it on the first of June 1813. In
1849 it was made over to the British,
and delivered to the Queen in 1850.
It was re-cut in London by Costa of
Amsterdam, at a cost of £8000, and its
weight was diminished from 186 carats
to 102i.
There are also specimens of the
mineral resources of the country.
Among them will be seen iron ore from
Bajor. It is a magnetic oxiJe of
singular purity. Antimony and lead
are also shown, and gold found in the
sands of the Panjab rivers in small
quantities. Specimens of rock-salt of
two kinds, one from the hills between
the Jhelum and the Indus, and the
other from the hills beyond the Indus
are shown. There is a fair collection
of birds and insects.
Lahore possesses a flourishing School
of Art, under the superintendence of
the Curator of the Museum.
The Pmijab Library, is said by some
to have been built by Vazir Khan, by
others by Ilahi Bakhsh. It is a hand-
some building, with four white cupolas,
and contains some valuable books.
Not far off is the shrine of a Moham-
medan saint called Mavj-i-Darya. Over
the door is a Persian inscription which
says it is the tomb of Saiyad M uhammad
Shah Mauj-i- Darya, son of Nuru'llah,
who was a spiritual guide in the time
of Akbar.
W. of the new Museum is the Town
HaU, opened by H.R.H. the late Duke
of Clarence in 1890.
The Native Town and Fort— The
picturesquenees of the old town must
appeal to every one, but to artists
it will be found of especial interest.
The balconies and projecting oriel
windows of the irregular brick nouses,
together with the variety and colour
of the costumes of the people, form a
striking picture. Travellers should
not fail to drive through the bazaars
on their way to (or from) the Fort,
entering by the Delhi gate.
A narrow street leads to an inner
gate which opens into a chauk or square,
where is the very beautiful Mosque of
Vazir Khan. It was built in 1634 by
Hakim 'Alau-din of Chiniot, Vazir
of the £mperor Shah Jehan. The brick
walls are covered with beautifril inlaid
work called Eashi or Nakkashi. It is
a kind of mosaic of glazed potterv and
tiles. The colours of the tiles sure burnt
in, and they are set in hard mortar.
Over the noble entrance is written in
Persian, " Remove thy heart from the
gardens of the world, and know that
this building is the true abode of man. "
It was completed in the reign of Shah
Jehan. The architect was Hidayatu
'Hah, the faithful servant of Vazir
Ehan. In the centre front of the
mosQue is the Moslem creed, and in
panels along the fa9ade are beautifully
written verses from the Koran. A
Persian inscription gives the date 1646
A.D. From the gallery round the
minaret, about 3 ft. broad, there is a
very tine view over the oily, which is
truly Oriental and picturesaue.
Leaving the mosque of Vazir Ehan,
and proceeding along a street remark-
able for balconies richly carved, the
visitor will come to the Sonai Mosjid,
or Golden Mosque, which has three gilt
domes, and was built in 1753 A.D. by
Bikhwari Ehan, a favourite of the
widow of Mir Mannu, a lady who
governed Lahore some time after her
husband's death. He is said to have
displeased the lady, whose female attend-
ants beat him to death with their ahoes.
The situation of this mo8(|ue at the
junction of two streets is picturesqee.
In a courtyard behind the mosque is
a large well, with steps descending to
the water's edge. It is said to have been
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ROUTE 12. LAHORE
203
kg by Aijan, the fifth Guru. Passing
ilong the narrow winding street, the
risitor will now come to an open space
called the Hira Mandi, whence is a fine
riew of the Fort and the JummaMusjid;
and turning to the right, under a gate-
way between the fort and the mosuue,
he will enter the pretty garden called
the Hazuri Bagh. On the rt. (E. side) is
the high crenellated wall of the Fort, and
in its centre is the Akbari Darwazah
(or Hazuri Bagh Gate), built by the
Emperor Akbar. It was formerly the
entrance to the citadel, but is now closed.
The towers of this building will attract
attention by the peculiarity of their de-
sign. The Hazuri Bagh forms an outer
court to the mosque. In its centre is the
Barahdari, a beautiful pavilion, built by
Ranjlt with white marble taken from the
tombfi of the Emperor Jehangir and the
Empress Kur Jehan at Shahdara.
On the farther (W. ) side of it is the
Jumma Musjid, raised on a lofty plat-
form supported by arches. A vast flight
of steps leads up to the gate of the
mosque. In a chamber above the
archway are preserved the dusty relics
of the Prophet and his family. They
consist of turbans of 'All and of his
sons Hasan and Husain, a cap with
Arabic writing on it, the prayer-carpet
of Fatima, a slipper of Mohammed, and
the mark of his foot impressed in a
ttone. There are also a vestment of
the Prophet, his prayer-carpet, and a
sreen turban. Besides these there is a
hair of the Prophet's beard, of a red
colour. There were a dozen formerly,
but aU have perished except this one.
There is also some red earth from Kar-
bala. There is a decayed tooth, which
is said to have belonged to one of the
Imams. The mosque was built by
Aurangzeb with the lunds derived from
the confiscated estates of his eldest
brother Dara Shikoh, whom he killed.
It has consequently never been liked
as a place of prayer. The revenues of
Mooltan were assijgned for its support.
Over the entrance is written the Moslem
creed, and then in Persian the date
= 1674.
Of the four minarets, all of which
are disfigured by the loss of one story,
only that to the S.W. is open. The
cupolas were so much injured by an
earthquake that it was necessary to take
them down.
The mosque is built of red sandstone,
and the facade of the mosque proper is
beautifully adorned with white marble
flowers. It has 1 large and 10 smaller
archways facing the court, and is sur-
mounted by 3 white marble domes.
The mosque is now very much ne-
glected, from the reasons above de-
scribed. Ranjit Sing made a magazine
of it. Its magnificent proportions excite
admiration, and the quadrangle being
overshadowed by fine trees produces an
unusual and very pleasing effect. It
was not till 1856 that the mosque was
restored to the Mohammedans as a place
of worship.
On the N. side of the Hazm*i Bagh
are the cremation places of Ranjit, the
Samadh of Khark Sing, and of Nau
Nihal Sing.
The glittering white building rather
out of keeping with the solemn mosque,
its neighbour, is the Ranjit Sing's
Samadh, restored in part 1840. It
faces the W. wall of the Fort, and is
a square stucco building on a high
Slatt'orm of marble. The ceilings are
ecorated with traceries in stucco mlaid
with mirrors. The arches of the interior
are of marble, but strengthened with
brick and chunam, and clamped with
iron, by order of Sir D. M *Leod when
Lieut -Governor of the Panjab. In the
centre is a raised platform of marble, on
which is a lotus flower carved in marble,
surrounded by eleven smaller flowers.
The central flower covers the ashes of
Ranjit ; the others those of four wives
and seven concubines who became satis
and underwent cremation with his
corpse.
N. of this mausoleum, and by the
side of the road leading from the
Roshanai Gate to the plain, outside
the Fort, is the Shrine of Axjan, the
fifth Guru, and compiler of the Adi
Graittk, which is read in Ran jit's Sam-
adh daily, in a huge volume over which
attendants reverently wave ehauries.
Facing this building is the Roshanai
Gate of the Fort. A steep incline,
made by the English, leads into the
interior, but before ascending it, the
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204
ROUTE 12. UMBALLA TO LAHOBB
India
attention of the visitor will be arrested
by the peculiar decoration of the walls
of the Palace of Akbar, which faces
him. The facade is inlaid with a
mosaic of encaustic tiles, representing
grotesque figures of men, horses, and
elephants, engaged in hunting, and
also the angeu, who, according to old
Persian mythology, preside over the
days and months. In spandrels over
arcaded compartments in front of the
part of the palace attributed to Jehan-
gir are four representations of the rising
sun. Other spandrels show cherubs
like those in Christian churches,
which were perhaps borrowed from the
Jesuit church established by Portuguese
missionaries at Lahore. In support of
this it may be said that Bemier men-
tions that Jehangir, in compliment to
the missionaries, placed an image of the
Virgin in a prominent position. It is
worth while walking round the walls
to the 1. to study these designs.
The Palace of Akbar is on the ex-
treme £. of the Fort. To it succeeds
a part built by Jehangir, and then a
curtain wall between two hexagonal
towers ascribed to Shah Jehan, to
which Aurangzib and the Sikhs made
additions.
Near the top of the incline, L, is the
Moti MuBjid, or Pearl Mosque, of white
marble, with three domes. Over the
arched entrance into the outer court are
a Persian inscription and date corre-
sponding to 1598 A.D. The inner door
has four large padlocks and four strong
chains. Ranjit Sinch kept his treasure
here, and the British use it for the same
purpose. Several sentries are posted
in tne inner court, in the passage, and
at the outer door.
Proceeding to the E., the visitor will
come to a small Sikh temple built by
the order of Dulip Sing's mother.
Close to the Moti Mnsjid is the Shish
Mahal, or Palace of Mirrors, which is
the joint work of Shah Jehan and
Aurangzib. The E. wall of this building
did not exist in Banjit Singh's time, and
there was an extensive court into which
he used to pass from the Moti Mosque,
through a handsome folding -door
studded with gUt bosses.
In the centre of the W. side of the
quadrangle is a beautiful white marble
pavilion called Nan Lakha, as it is
said to have cost 9 lakhs or 900,000 rs.
This beautiful work of art is inlaid
after the fashion so well known at
Agra. Between the pillars on the S.
side of the quadrangle walls have been
erected, and thus an Armoury (see
below) has been formed.
The Shish Mahal was the place where
the sovereignty of the Pan jab was trans-
ferred to the British Government. Here
too Ranjit Singh held his receptions.
In the small rooms leading to the upper
tower the ceilings are cut into geo-
metrical patterns. These paintings and
the mirror work with which the walls
and ceilings are ornamented were
done by the Sikhs, and ill agree with
the chaste beauty of the Mogul archi-
tecture. The windows look out to-
wards the Badami Oa/rden to the K.
On this plain Ranjit Singh used to hold
reviews. There used to be fountains
in the centre of the quadrangle, and
their basin still remains. In the inlaid
work of the pavilion there were formerly
valuable stones, but these have been
ail picked out.
In the Armoury the visitor will re-
mark the round shield of Guru Govind.
It is of rhinoceros hide, and has a
single bo83. His battle-axe is also
shown, the blade of which is of
fine Damascus steel. Here too will
be seen the arms taken from the Sikhs
by the English ; some of the helmets
are inscriMd Akal Sipahi. The long
gauntleted swords are merely nsed in
fencing. There are many cuirasses
which belonged to the regiments com-
manded by French officers, with brass
cocks upon them. There are also rings
of steel which were used as missiles in
war, particularly by the Akalis. The
crests of these soldiers, called Jikars,
in the shape of a bar passing through
two semicircles, and crowned with a
ball, are exhibited. There are also
some cannon with barrels which turn
like those of a revolver, and a number
of camel guns and an obus, inscribed
in Persian, **Fath ya shahid, 1816.
Victory or death." Many coats of
mail will also be observed.
Parallel with the tower of the Shish
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BOUTB 12. EXPEDITIONS FROM LAHORE
205
lahal was another tower called Saman
lorj, of great height
Pass now in an E. direction to the
Nwaa-i-Ehas. It is a beautiful build-
ing of white marble, supported on 32
(olumns, and is now used by the English
IS a church. There is an aperture in
the Jali or perforated screen, on the N.,
tbout 2 ft. sq., at which the Emperor
sat and heard his Arzbegi read the
petitions, from the roof of a building
now rained, 24 ft. below.
To theE. of this is the AkbarlMahal,
an ornamented Hindu pavilion, now
used as the apothecary's quarters.
From the Diwan-i-Ehas 67 steps lead
down to the ditch between the outer
wall and the N. wall of the palace ;
about 20 yds. from this you pass S. to
the Khwabgah-i-Kalan^ which is of red
sandstone, but has been whitewashed.
The architraves of the pillars are well
carved in the Hindu fashion with repre-
sentations of elephants and birds, as
are also those of the Akbari Mahal.
Near the centre of the Fort is the
IKwaa-i-'Am (now used as barracks).
The building is of red sandstone,
supported in the centre by 12 columns.
The outer arches have been filled in to
form walls, and the whole has been
whitewashed. In the centre is the
Takhtgah, or "throne place,'* where
the Emperor sat. The ascent is by 12
steps, and there are several rooms be-
hind. In the front of the building are
the remains of a red sandstone railing,
inside which only the nobles could come.
'^. of this, where now stands a clump
of trees, was a tomb, out of which a
holy man used to warn the Emperor
that he was mortal.
To the E. is the Hospital, a building
which was erected by Chand Kauwar
for her residence, and there she was
confined by order of Sher Sing, and
put to death according to his commands
by her hand maidens. E. of the Diwan-
i-'Am and adjoining it is the house of
Sher Sing, which was four stories high,
but only two now remain.
The Central Prison, S. of Govern-
ment House, and at the extreme S. of
the Civil Station, is one of the best
managed in India, and is capable of
holding 2276 prisoners. It is unneces-
sary to describe the building.
During the Mutiny, 80,000 cartridges
were made by convict mutineers, besides
thousands of sandbags for the siege of
Delhi. The most notable manufac-
tures in the prison are rugs and carpets.
The carpets (only made to order) re-
semble those of Persia, and tradesmen
in London and America purchase them
annually to a large value.
In the Lawrence Gardens, which
cover 112 acres, are large varieties of trees
and shrubs of diflferent species. The
visitor will remark the Pinus loTigifoliay
the Australian gum tree, and the carob
tree of Syria. There is also a menagerie.
At the N. side is the Lawrence Hall,
built in memory of Sir J. Lawrence in
1862, fronting the road ; and the Mont-
gomery Hall, built in 1866, in memory
of Sir R. Montgomery, facing the central
avenue of the gardens. A covered
corridor connects them. Montgomery
Hall contains portraits of Sir Henry
Lawrence and tne Lt. -Governors of the
Province, and other celebrated Anglo-
Indians.
Ooyemment Honse is at no great dis-
tance from the Lawrence Gardens to
the N. It was the tomb of Muhammad
Easim Khan, cousin of the Emperor
Akbar. He was a great patron of
wrestlers, and his tomb used to be called
Kushtewdla Qwmhaz^ or Wrestler's
Dome. There are some noble trees in
the grounds, and a good swimming bath.
Near the S.W. comer of the Civil
Station is a building called Chauburj,
** Four Towers," which has been a gate-
way to a garden, with 4 minars, whence
its name. This beautiful building is
faced with blue and green encaustic
tiles. The greater part of the dome
has fallen.
Expeditions from Lahore.
Shalimar Gardens are 6 m. E. from
the milestone near the Tanksal Gate of
Lahore, whence the measurements are
made to Peshawar and other places.
About J m. before reaching them is the
gateway to the Golabi Bagh or Rose
Garden, laid out in 1656 by Sultan
Beg, Admiral of the fleet to Shah Jehan.
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206
ROUTE 12. ITMBALLA TO LAHORE
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The Nakkashi work of coloured tiles
on the gate is very beautiful, and hardly
inferior to that on Vazir Khan's Mosque.
On the gateway is inscribed in Persian :
Sweet Is this garden, through envy of which
the tulip is spotted,
The rose of the sun and moon forms its beauti-
ful lamp.
Opposite to the Qulabi Bagh, across
a field, is the Tomb of 'All Mardan
Khan, the celebrated engineer, who also
laid out the Shalimar Gardens. Its
lofty archway retains traces of ex-
quisitely coloured tiles. Fifty yds. S.
of this is the octagonal tomb of 'Ali
Mardan, built of brick.
There are many dargahs and gardens,
to which on holidays crowds of people
go on pilgrimage.
The ShcUlmar Gardens were laid out
in 1687 A.D. by order of Shah Jehan.
They are divided into three parts,
in tiers of various levels. The whole
extent is about 80 acres, surrounded
by a wall, with a large gateway and
pavilions at each corner. Canals tra-
verse the garden, and there is a tank
in the centre, with an island and a
passage across to it. There are 100
small fountains in the first garden, and
double that number in the tank. The
trees are chiefly mangoes, and the
garden is laid out in monotonous square
beds. Once, when the cement was in-
tact and the frescoes new, it must have
been a very pretty place, but now it is
decayed and shabby.
On the opposite side of the road are
two other gardens, the Sindanwalas
and Misr Birj Lai's ; and to the £.
there is also Jamadar Ehushhal Sing's
garden, and across the road to the N.E.
Lehna Sing's.
The military cantonment of Meean
Meer is situated 5 m. to the S.E. of
the Civil Station.
The cantonment contains a garrison
of 1 Brit, regt., 2 batteries, 2 native
line regiments, and 1 native cavalry.
About I m. to the N.W., on the rt.
of the road leading to the cantonment
is the Shrine of Meean Meer^ a saint
from whom the cantonment has its
name. It stands in the centre of a
quadrangle, 200 ft. sq., on a marble
platform. Ranjit took away much of
the marble for his barahdari in the
Hazuri Bagh, and to make amends
had the inside painted with flowers.
Over the entrance are an inscription in
Persian and date = 1 636 A. d. The left
side of the enclosure is occupied by a
mosque.
Returning towards the city, the
traveller will pass on the right the
village of Shahu-ki-Ohuri, where are a
number of laree tombs, some with
cupolas, but all more or less ruined.
W; of the village, at 300 yds. from the
main road, is the most venerated tomb
in Lahore or its vicinity. It is called
the Tomb of Bibi Pakdamaa, ''The
Chaste Ladies." This saint was the
daughter of the younger brother of 'AU
by a difierent mother. Her real name
was Rukiyah Khanum, and she was
the eldest of six sisters, who are all
buried here, and who fled with her to
Baghdad, after the massacre at Kar-
bala ; she died in 728 A.D., at the age
of 90. The road is narrow and bad.
The place is remarkable for a number of
very old Wanr trees. It is expected
that the visitor will take off his shoes.
There are five enclosures, and the tomb
of Rukiyah is in the fifth. It is of briclc,
whitewashed.
Shah Dara is situated beyond the
Bridge of Boats on the right bank of
the Ravi, about IJ m. to tlie N. of the
railway bridge over that river. The
journey by rail is 6 m. to the Shah
Dara sta. , from which the Tomb of the
Emperor Jehangir is IJ m. It is more
convenient to go in a carriage (about
64 m. drive).
After crossing the railwav a
domed building will be passed on
the 1. This is the tomb of Asif
Khan (see below); and shortly after
an enclosure will be entered which has
been the sarai or outer court of the
mausoleum. An archway of white
marble, and 50 ft high, leads into the
court of the mausoleum, which forms
a garden. The passage to the tomb is
paved with beautifully sti-eaked marble
nrom Jeypore and other places. The
cenotaph is of white marble, inlaid with
pietra dura work, and stands in the
centre of an octagonal chamber. On
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ROUTE 13. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
207
tie £. and W, sides are the 99 names
of God, most beautifully carved, and on
iQ S. side is inscribed, " The Glorious
lomb of His High Majesty, Asylum
i Protectors, Nuru-din Muhammad,
fte Emperor Jehangir," 1627 a.d. On
tie four sides are exquisite screens of
kttice-work.
Just outside the entrance, and to the
right of it, is a staircase which leads up
to the flat square roof of the building,
covered with a magnificent tessellated
pavement. At eacn comer is a min-
aret, 95 ft high from the platform. A
marble parapet ran round the pave-
ment» but was taken awav by iUnjit
Siogh ; it is being gradually restored.
The minarets are four stories high,
and are built of magnificent blocks of
stone 8 ft. long. I?om the top there
is a fine view to the S.E. over the Ravi
to the city.
The Tomb of Asaf Khan, brother of
the Empress Nur Jchan, stands in an
enclosure immediately to the W. of the
sarai. It is an octagon surmounted
by a dome. It has been utterly ruined
and almost entirely stripped of the
lovely Nakkashi work which once
adorned it. In the portals some frag-
ments still remain to show how glori-
ous it once was. The cenotaph is of
white marble. The Tughra writing on
it is extremely fine, and resembles that
on the tomb of Jehangir.
Before crossing the railway, is seen r.
the tomb of Nur Jehan, wife of Jehan-
gir, a plain building of one story, with
loor main arches and eight oblong
openings in the centre, with three rows
of arches beyond. It is in ruins.
18 UL W. of Lahore is Shekohpura,
the hunting-seat of Dara Shikoh, the
eldest brother of Aurangzib.
The road crosses the bridge over the
Kavi, and at about 4 m. enters a dreary
tract of long grass and iungle. A
bridge over the Bagh Bachcha, a branch
of the Bavi, is then passed. At Man-
diali Road Chauki there is a good D.B.,
standing 100 yds. back from the road
on the rt., with a pretty little garden.
Here horses are changed.
On the 1. of the road is a garden -
Iwwse, built by Rani Nakyana, queen
of Ranjit Sing. At the S.W. comer of
the garden is her Samadhf an octagonal
building. The walls are painted with
Hindu mythological pictures. That in
front is of Krishna dancing the Ras
mandal with the Gopis. Over the door
is a picture of the ten Gurus, with an
inscription. Across the road is a veiy
clean and comfoitable house which be-
longs to the Raja, and is lent by him
to travellers.
The village of Shekohpura contains
a fine old fort.
There is good shooting here. About
3 m. from the town is a large tank
surrounded by flights of steps with a
three-storied barcMari in the centre.
A tall minaret stands near an entrance
gateway N. of the tank.
ROUTE 13
Lahore to Peshawar (N.W. Rly.)
Lahore to Peshawar is 278 m. by the
North-Western Railway, and the time
occupied in transit 17 hours.
5 m. Shah Dara sta. The tomb of
the Emperor Jehangir, 1 J m. off, is de-
scribed on p. 206.
42 m. Gnjranwala sta. (R.) D.B.
This is the birthplace of Ranjit Singh.
At J m. beyond the station is the
Samadho/Maha Sing, father of the great
Ranjit. It is an octagonal building, 81
ft. high to the top of the gilt ornament
on the sunmiit. Within are the sculp-
tured rosettes or knobs which mark
where the ashes are deposited. The large
rosette surrounded by twelve smaller
ones, is inscribed Sarkar Ranjit Sing.
That nearest the entrance is in memorj'
of a blue pigeon that fell down into
the flames in which Ranjit and his con-
cubines were being consumed. Other
rosettes mark the ashes of Maha Sing
Padshah, Maharaj Sher Sing, and Sarkar
Nau Nihal Sing JL There is a narrow
but lofty pavilion, covered with mytho-
logical pictures, among which is one re-
presenting Dury^odhana ordering Drau-
padi to be stripped As fast as the
clothes were pulM off her shewas super-
naturally re-clothed. At 100 yards to
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208
ROUTE 13. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
India
the E. is the payilion of Maha Sing, a
handsome building, now used as the read-
ing and meetine room of the Anjuman
of the town. Close to the market-place
is the honse where Ra^jit was bom.
N.E. of the town is the Barahdarif
or payilion, of Ranjit's famous general,
Hari Sing. It stands in 40 acres of
garden and grounds. To the £. is a
pavilion 12 ft. hi^h, full of small
niches for lamps. On the E. wall is a
painting of warriors and elephants,
now almost gone. At 70 yds. to the
N. of the house is the samadh of Hari
Sing. A number of trees have grown
through the platform and are breaking
it up. At the S. W. comer is a pavilion
in which countless green parrots have
their nests. The place where the ashes
lie is marked by a knob shaped like a
budding flower. There are no scUi
knobs. The first picture on the wall
inside is a portrait of Hari Sing hawk-
ing, with a string of ducks passing
over his head. The district is famous
for oranges.
62 m. Wazirabad juuc. 8ta.(R.), D.B.
(15, 200 inhab. ) From here a line runs
N.E. to SialM and /ttm??wo (see below).
This place, founded by Wazir Khan in
the reisn of Shah Jehan, became, under
the nue of Ranjit Singh, the head-
quarters of General A vitabile, who built
a completely new town on the plan of
a parallelogram, and surrounded by a
wall. A broad bazaar runs from end
to end. Close to the town is one of
the most famous gardens in the Panjab,
laid out by Dewan Thakur Das Chopra.
At Wazirabad is ^the great Alexandra
Bridge over the* Chenab, opened in
1876 by the Prince of Wales.
The Chenab is here a most difficult
stream to deal with. The floods rise
11 ft above low-water level, and the
velocity of the current then exceeds
10 m. an hour. The stream is more
than 50 ft. deep, and drives the sand
in all directions ; but the training works
in connection with the bridge have
modified the action of the river and
confined it.
[An expedition may be made by
branch line from Wazirabad to
27 m. Sialkot sta., D. B. A town with
military station 1 m. N. (inhab. 55,000).
The Chwrch is a striking object, having
a steeple 150 ft. hi^h. There is also a
fort. The rly. continues to
52 m. Jnmmoo sta., D.B. This is
the winter capital of the Jummoo and
Cashmere state, which extends over
an area of 79,783 sq. m., with a pop.
(1891) of 2,507,240 persons. See
Cashmere, p. 215.
The Old Palace at Jummoo, at the
E., close to the city wall, has no pre-
tensions to beauty. It is entered by
a laree irregular G[uadrangle, on the
rt side of which is a vast reception-
room. The verandah of the smidl
dining-room overlooks the Tavi, and
beyond the river are hills covered with
jungle, in which are many wild beasta
To the N. W. of the city is a Pagoda
covered with plates of copper-gilt A
little to the E. of it is the new palace
which was built for the Prince of Wales's
visit. Close by to the E. is the old
parade-ground, with the hospital and
college to the S.E. The Oumit OaU-
way is that by which the city is
entered from the S. in coming from the
river Tavi. A short distance before
reaching it is the chief temple. 2 m.
S. of this gate is a fine garden be-
longing to the Maharaja. From the
Gumit Gate there is a descent of 70 ft.
down a rough road paved with stones,
then the path lies through thick wooda
The much frequented trade-route to
Srinagar and the Cashmere valley starts
from Jummoo (see Rte. 13 a).
71 m. Oujrat sta. This pretty town
is the administrative headquarters of
a district of the same name. The
town (18,000 inhab.) stands on the
ancient site of 2 earlier cities. The
second, according to General Cunning-
ham, was destroyed in 1303 A.D. Two
centuries after this Sher Shah was in
possession of the country, and either
he or Akbar founded the present town.
Akbar's fort stands in the centre of
the town. It was first garrisoned by
Gujars, and took the name of Gigrat
Akbarabad. Akbar's administrative
records are still preserved in the fami-
lies of the hereditary registrars. In
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ROUTE 13. GUJRAT
209
1X1 the Ghakkars established them-
8^ at Gnjrat, and in 1765 the
SkhB acquired the coantry. The Civil
Sation, in which is the D.B., lies to
tie N. During the reign of Shah
Jbban, Gnjrat became the residence of
afamons saint, Pir Shah Daulah, who
domed it with numerous buildings.
lere are a Church of Scotland Mission
Church and Schools.
TheBattle-field—Thedecisiye battle
of Gujrat was fought on the ^Ist of
February 1 849. The village of Kalra is
2 J m. S. of the D. B. It was the key of
the Sikh position. It is a village of
70 houses in a flat plain, where there
are no natural advantages to assist
an army in maintaining its position.
Thence the Sikhs retreated round the
W. and N. sides of the town of Gujrat.
Lord Gouojh's camp on the 18th and
19th of February was 9 m. to the S. of
Gujrat, near the Chenab river. Thence
he advanced with seven brigades of
infantry and a body of cavalry on
each flank.
The advance began at 7 a.m. The
artillery went to the front and poured
their fire on the Sikh army, which was
drawn up a little to the N. of Kalra,
and consisted of six brigades of infantry,
with 59 guns, and four great bodies of
Sikh cavalry, with 4000 Afghan horse
{whereas the English army consisted of
25,000 and nearly 100 guns). The
heavy English guns opened on the
Sikhs at 1000 yds. and crashed their
lighter metal. As the Sikh fire ceased,
tlie English field batteries were con-
stantly pushed forward. By 11.30 a.m.
no8t of the Sikh guns had been with-
drawn, dismounted, or abandoned.
The British infantry then advanced,
deployed, and carried the position.
Next day General Gilbert, with
12,000 men, pursued the enemy, and
at Rawal Pindi received the submission
of the entire Sikh army. Thus ended
the second Sikh war.
In the cemetery at Shah Jehcmgir,
called after a Fakir of that name, are
the tombs of those who fell in the
battle. Beyond to the E. are two
mosques, one of which is rather remark-
•hle. Gujrat is one of the starting
pUces for Cashmere. (See Rte. 13a.)
\India'\
83 m. Lala Mum junc. sta. (R.) A
branch line runs W. on the left bank
of the Jhelum river to Kundian junc.
on the Sind-Saugar lUy. (Rte. 14). A
traveller having time at his disposal
can from this line visit the battle-field
of Chilianwala, the salt-mines near
Find Dadan Khan, and the fountain
and temples at Katas.
103 m. Jhelum sta. (R.), D.B., is a
modem municipal town, and the admin-
istrative headquarters of a district of
the same name, but appears to have been
built on an ancient site. The Civil
lines and Cantonment lie 1 m. E. and
W. of the town respectively. Many
ancient pillars have been dug up near
the rly. sta., and amongst them one
with a human face in the Greek style,
which is now in the Lahore Museum.
One is to be seen in the railway
engineer's compound. Jhelum is also a
starting place for Cashmere. Rte. 13a.
[Rotas is 11 m. N.W. of Jhelum.
Carriage-road to the Eahan river, 8 m.,
and after that cart track along the
river, and below barren hills 200 ft.
high a bridle-path. This famous fort
stands on a hill overlooking the gorge
of the Eahan river. Its walls extend
for 3 m., in places from 30 to 40 ft.
thick, and enclose about 260 acres. It
was built by Sher Shah as a check on
the Ghakkar tribes.
The fort is partly hidden by the
hills, stands high (130 ft.) above the
ravine, and it is quite possible to miss
the gateway, which is to the left of the
river. The entrance, up a steep path, is
by the Ehawas Khan Gate, on the
N.E. of the hill. The Suhali Gate
(where is the D.B.) is on the'S.W.,
and is reached through the town, with
a deep fissure on the It., and on the rt.
an inner wall with a lofty gateway,
called after Shah Chand Wali. Within
this stand the ruins of Man Sing's
palace, built after he reduced Kabul.
The S.W. comer consists of a lofty
barahdari, in which is a stone finely
carved with figures of birds, etc. The
S.E. corner is 150 ft. off, and consists
of a smaller barahdari, about 25 ft.
high. The wall between the two is
gone. There were twelve gates to the
Digitized byLjOOQlC
210
ROUTE 13. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
Indfio
fort, but they are now nearly all in
rains. The Shisha Gate (an inner gate)
was so called from the Harim's Hall of
Mirrors, which adjoined it.]
157 m. Labani sta. (a flag-station
only) is the nearest point to Manik-
yala Tope, which is 2 m. distant.^
[Manikyala was first noticed by
Mountstuart Elphinstone in 1815, and
afterwards thoroughly explored by Gen.
Ventura in 1830. In 1834 the stupa
was colored by Gen. Court, and 30
years after by Gen. Cunningham. The
date is uncertain. There are coins
taken from it of Eanishka and Huvishka,
which date from the beginning of the
Christian era, but with them was found
a coin of Yaso Vannma, who reigned
not earlier than 720 a.d., and many
silver Sassano- Arabian coins of the
same period. Cunningham thinks that
the stupa may have been ori^nally
boilt by Huvishka, who deposited coins
of his own reign and of his predecessor
Eanishka, and that the stupa having be-
come ruinous was rebuilt in its present
massive form by Yaso-Vamima, who
redeposited the relic caskets with the
addition of a gold coin of himself and
several contemporary coins of Arab
governors.
The dome of the stupa is an exact
hemisphere, 127 ft. in diameter. The
outer circle measures 500 ft. in circum-
ference, and is ascended by four flights
of steps, one in each face, leading to a
procession path 16 ft. in width, orna-
mented both above and below by a
range of dwarf pilasters, representing
the detached rail of the older Indian
monuments.
Mr. Fergusson says : *'It is, indeed,
one of the most marked characteristics
of these Gandhara topes that none of
them possess, or ever seem to have
possessed, any trace of an independent
rail ; but all have an ornamental belt
of pilasters, joined generally by arches
simulating the original rail. This can
hardly be an early architectural form,
and leads to the suspicion that, in
spite of their deposits, their outward
I Cunningham's Arch. Rep. vol. ii. p. 152 :
casing may be very much more modem
than the coins they contain."
The circular gallery which runs
round the great stupa is 6 ft. 2 in.
from the ground, and 10 ft. broad.
The row of pilasters that go round the
hemisphere are 4 ft. high. The building
is made of round rough stones, a foot
in diameter, and the mortar is of an
inferior kind. The whole was faced
with smooth stones. The opening or
tunnel made by Gen. Ventura is on the
E. side, facing the present path to Man-
ikyala. The stones were not disturbed,
but the tunnel was dug under them.
At 2 m. to the N. of Ventura's tope
is Court's tope. Here the earth ia of
a bright red colour, and therefore
Cunningham identifies this stupa with
that mentioned by Hiouen Thsang as
**the stupa of the body-offering;"
while at 1000 ft to the S. of it is Hiouen
Thsang's " stupa of the blood-offering,"
which that pilgrim ignorantly attri-
buted to its being stained with the
blood of Buddha, who, according to a
curious legend, is said to have offered
his body to appease the hunger of seven
tiger cubs. The stupa of the body-
offering was opened by Gen. Court,
who found in a stone niche, covered
by a large inscribed slab, three cylindri-
cal caskets of copper, silver, and gold,
each containing q(Adb of the same metal ;
four gold coins of Eanerke were found
in the gold box ; in the silver box were
seven silver Roman denarii of the last
years of the Republic, the latest being
M. Antonius IMumvir, and therefore
not earlier than 43 b.o. The eight
copper coins in the copper box were all
Indo-Scythian, belonging to Eanishka
and his immediate predecessors.
The inscription has been deciphered
and translated by Mr. Dowson, who
made out the date to be the eighteenth
year of Eanishka, and that it was the
record of the monastery of the Huta-
Murta,- or "body oblation," including, i
of course, the stupa in which the in- 1
scription was found.
Cunningham ran trenches across the
mound, which now represents the mon-
astery, and brought to light the outer
walls and cells of the monks, forming
a square of 1 tJO ft. In the middle wtre
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BOUTE 13. BAWAL PINBI
211
rooms 11 ft sq., which were
irines for statues.
I more than 1 m. due S. of
is the mound of Sonala
stands on the highest and
)iouous of all the sandstone
is thickly coTcred with Mo-
tombs. This mound is 118
)0 ft broad, and 13 ft hich.
[400 yards to the S.E. is a
ridge, called Pari-ki-deri.
^ered with Moslem tombs,
lingham found the walls of
and in the centre of the
Irangle he found the base-
temple 30 ft sq.
ance of the stnpa of Manik-
Labani is 2 m. The road
a few hundred yds. along the
runk Road, and then turns N.
Sfh ground.]
Bawal Find! Cantonment
aOc (a branch line runs W. to
rh on the Indus river, 78 m. ),
This is a modem municipal
ind headquarters of a district,
the largest military station in
1 It has lately been surrounded
tain of detached forts. The city
pop. of 86,000, the majority of
are Mohammedans. It re-
its name from Jhanda Khan, a
£ar chief, who restored the town
ehpur Baori, which had fallen to
daring an invasion of the Moguls
* Ae Uth century. The ChurSi is
^ 200 yds. from the D.B., and here
fc Kahop Milman's tomb. The Fort is
«littieless than If m. from the D.B.
to the S.S.E. The town has nothing
v«iy remarkable in it. The PiiUic
^^<ffden here is a park of 40 acres, with
* W forest, well preserved. General
Cunningham, Arch. Rep. vol. ii. p.
1^2, says that in excavations near the
M, amongst other interesting dis-
coreries was that of an oil-lamp of
classical shape with an Aryan inscrip-
tion, said to be now in the British
Museum, and a cup of mottled sienna-
eolotured steatite. Several didrachms
<)f Hippostratus and Azas and a di-
ilrachm of ApoUodorus have been
picked up on the Old Parade-gi-ound.
[Kawal Pindi is the starting-place
for the ffill-staiion of Murree. aO^ It
is 37 m. by a carriage - road, — a
journey of 5 hours. It is the great
northern sanitarium of the Panjab, and
the summer resort of the General in
command at Rawal Pindi. The site was
selected in 1850, and in 1853 barracks
for troops were erected. The houses
are built on the summit and sides of
an irregular ridge, and command mag^
nificent views over forest -clad hills
into deep valleys, studded with villages
and cultivated fields, with the snow-
covered peaks of Cashmere in the back-
ground. The climate is well adapted
for Englishmen, the lowest recorded
temperature being 21**; the highest
96".
The stationary pop. is only about
3000, but in the height of the season it
rises to 14,000 or 15,000. The station
is 7507 ft. above the sea-level. The
loftiest peaks behind the sanitarium
attain a height of over 9000 ft. There
is very little game now to be found in
the hills. Situated at convenient sites
along the ridge in the direction of
Ahbotdbad are several " Hutted Camps"
for the British troops in summer.
Rawal Pindi is also the starting-
place for Cashmere by Murree and the
Jhelum Valley. This is the best route
into the country (see p. 216).]
MargcUa is passed 3 m. before reach-
ing the station of Eala ke Sarai. On
an eminence to the S. is the monument
of General John Nicholson :
"Erected by friends, British and
native, to the memory of Brig. -Gen.
John Nicholson, C.B., who, after tak-
ing a hero's part in four great wars,
fell mortally wounded, in leading to
victory the main column of assault at
the great siege of Delhi, and died 22d
September 1857, aged 34."
194 m. Kala ke Sarai sta. , D. B. At
6 m. from this place is the beautiful
village of Wah,
203 m. Hasan Abdal sta., D.B.,
famous for the so-called Lalla BooWa
tomb, which is close by ; also on account
of the spring of Babi Wali^ or as the
Sikhs call him, Panja Sahib. This is
one of those attractive places to which
each religion in succession has attached
its legends, and it has been appropri-
ated in turn by Buddhist Branman.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
212
ROUTE 13. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
India
Mohammedan, and Sikh. The shrine
of this saint is on the peak of a lofty
and precipitous hill, at the N.W. foot
of which numerous springs of limpid
water gush out of the ground and form
a rill which falls into tne Wah rivulet,
i m. to the W. of Hasan Ahdal.
At the £. entrance into the town on
the right hand, ahout i m. from the
D.B., is the tomb of one ofAkha/r's wives^
which the ignorant people say^ is that
of Nur Jehan. The roaii to it passes
through roughly paved streets, and then
leads down to a clear rapid brook,
crossed by stepping-stones, a few yds.
beyond a Sikh temple, near a beautiful
pool of water, canopied with mulberry
and pipul trees of large size, and full
of mahsir, some of them as big as a 20
lb. salmon. Walk now 250 yds. along
the stream, past some ruins of the time
of Jehangir, and past another pool to
the Tomb, which is very plain, and
stands in a garden surrounded by a wall,
with four slim towers, one at each
comer : the enclosure is well filled with
trees, amongst which is a cypress more
than 50 ft. high.
From Hasan Abdal branches off one
of the roads to Cashmere (Rte. 13a) via
Abbotabad, D.B., a pretty hill-station
(4200 ft.), and headquarters of the
Frontier Force Command, famous for its
gardens. It is named from Lieut.
James Abbot, who reduced the district
to order in 1845-8.
232 m. Attook Bridge sta. (or At-
tak), D.B., 1^ m. below the town and
Fort. Attock has seen the passage of
every conqueror who has invaded India
from the N.W. from the time of Alex-
ander the Great downwards ; but inde-
pendent of historical interest, the place
is inviting to the traveller as being one
of the most picturesque in India.
It is a small town and fortress of
some military importance, and head-
quarters of a subdistrict of the same
name (pop. 2000). The Fort, situated
ou a commanding height, overhang-
ing the £. bank of the Indus, and
a little to the S. of the point where it
receives the Kabul river, is very ex-
tensive and has a most imposing appear-
ance. It was built by the Emperor
Akbar in 1583, who also established the
ferry which it commands. Banjit Sing
occupied the place in 1813, and it re-
mained in the hands of the Sikhs till
the British conquest of 1849. It is now
held by a small European detachment.
Leave can be obtained to walk round
the ramparts : this is well worth doing
on account of the picturesque views to
be obtained.
The Indus is crossed here by a very
fine Iron Raihoay Girder Bridge, which
was difficult to construct owing to the
rapidity of the current and the height
above thef water. The rails are on the
top of the girders, and there is a passage
for road-Saffic below. Each end is
protected by a fortified gate. The
river has been known to rise 90 ft in
flood near the Fort, where the channel
becomes very narrow.
To the N. of the Fort and on the &
side of a small ravine, overlooking the
united river, at the height of 300 ft,
is an old sarai, converted into the
artillery officers' mess-room.
Another ravine to the S. divides the
sarai &om the higher hill on which is
the Fort The general view is certainly
one of the finest in India. To the N.
are seen the snow-capped peaks of the
Hindu Rush.
S. of the Fort is a third ravine, which
separates it from the village of Mullab
Tolah.
The hills that line the river near
Attock have round towers and ruined
forts dotted about them, and the Attock
Fort seen from them resembles some
old baronial castle. It crowns a rock
800 ft high, and descends a conside^
able distance down its sides.
Outside theFortto the W., and 50 yds.
down, is the tomb of a Diwan of the
saint ' Abdu '1 Kadir GilanL Itstands in
a small enclosure on the edge of a clitf.
[Persons wishing to undertake the
somewhat rough journey down tlie
Indus from Attock, via Khushalgarh,
Makhad, Kalabagh, Kafir Eot, to Dera
Ismail Khan, D.B. (5 days), should apply
some days beforehand to the Assistant
Commissioner at Attock, asking hin
kindly to make arrangements for
procuring a native boat and crew for
the voyage. Dera Ismail Khan is 10 m*
d by Google
Attock.
Tojkcej). 218.
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ROUTE 13. PESHAWAR
213
from Bhakkur sta. on the Sind-Saugar
Rlj.]
235 m. Khairabad sta. (K.)
261 m. Nowshera sta., D.B., is the
hflidqnarters of a subdistrict of the
sane name in Peshawar district, on the
right bank of the Kabnl river. The can-
tonment is on the banks of the river,
ibout 2 m. distant on the Grand Trunk
Boad is a mined fort built by the Sikhs.
Mardan (18 m. from Nowshera) is
the headquarters of the Corps of Guides
belonging to the Punjab Frontier Force.
267 m. Pabbi sta. [18 m. from here
is Cherat, D.B., a hill cantonment and
sanitarium for Peshawar, 4500 ft. above
sea-leveL It is on the W. of the
Khatak range, which divides the dis-
tricts of Peshawar and Kohat. It was
first tried in 1861 , and since then troops
have been annually moved up with great
benefit to their health. The temperature
seldom exceeds 90", even in the hottest
season. A ton^ runs between Pabbi
and the foot of the hills, whence a bridle-
path of about 5 m. leads into Cherat.]
276 m. Peshawar City sta.
278 m. Peshawar Cantonmentsta., 3^
D.B., Peshawar (84,000 inhab., chiefly
Mohammedans), an important frontier
and garrison city of India, is both inter-
esting and picturesque. It stands upon
a plain, stretching towards the moun-
tains, on the L bank of the Bara stream,
IS^m. S.E. of the junction of the Swat
and Kabul rivers, and 10^ m. E. of Jam-
md Fort, which guards the entrance of
the Khaiber Pass. (To Kabul 190 m.)
Peshawar is the ancient capital of
the Gandara Province, and has at all
later periods been historically import-
ant ; hut although dating back to the
5th and 6th cent., it retains scarcely
any monuments of antiquity. The
modem city has but slight architectural
pretensions. The houses are built of
sroall bricks or mud, held together by
a wood^i framework, and the streets
are irregular and tortuous ; the whole
being surrounded by a mud wall 10 ft.
high. It is not fortified, though sur-
roonded by watch-towers, which are
now in rums or have been converted
into police posts. The Ohor KhaJtri,
successively a Buddhist monastery and
Hiada temple, is now the Tehsil On
rising ground just outside the city, N.,
is a square fort of sun-dried bricks, with
walls 92 ft. high. From it there is a
veiy good view of the Peshawar Valley
and. hills. To the W. is the Jail,
Peshawar has a great transit trade
from Kabul and Bokhara and Central
Asia. The Bazaars are well worth a
visit, both for the objects they contain
— many of them not seen in Central
India — and for the fierce-looking and
picturesquely-dressed natives who fre-
quent them, from Afghanistan and the
surrounding districts, as well as from
the centre of Asia. The traveller should
drive through the town to the Old
Palace, whence there is a lovely view
in the early morning.
The speciality of Peshawar is bright-
coloured scarfs called lungis. Wax-
cloth work and some ornamental needle-
work are also made here, as well as
knives and small-arms. The cemeteries
are very numerous, and quite surround
the city. The Grand Trunk Road ap-
proaches Peshawar from the E., when,
after passing the city to the N., it
meets the Circular Road, which goes
quite round the cantonment. Just
where it comes parallel with the city
is the missionary burial-ground.
The Cantonments, 2 m. W. of the
city, are pleasantly situated on a slope
loomng towards the Khaiber Pass, and
occupying one of the highest sites in the
valley. They contain a Public Oarden^
and the main roads are lined with
avenues of trees. Leaving the Fort and
taking the Circular Road, the Race-
course, the iV./., Art,, the B.S.f and
Nat. G.S. Lines are passed in succession.
There are Anglican and H, Catholic
Churches. At the Mission connected
with the Church Missionary Society
there is a school where a large number
of natives are educated. At the Mission-
house there is a considerable library and
a good collection of Buddhist remains.
They maintain also two guest-houses
for natives free of all charge. In the
city is the pretty Mission church.
One of the many victims of the
fanatical Afghans was Lieut. - Col.
Mackeson, C.B., Commissioner of Pesha-
war, murdered in 1853. An obelisk
30 ft. high, in the centre of the Mall,
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ROUTE 13. LAHORE TO PESHAWAR
marks the spot where he is buried.
The Deputy-Commissioner's house is
the same which Herbert Edwardes
occupied in 1857, when he and Nichol-
son and General Ck>tton decided on
disarming the native troops.
ffuniing Ucajried on throughout the
winter, when the climate is often very
cold, and it is necessary to be provided
with warm clothes.
(1) The Ehaiber (Ehyber) Pasa.
This expedition should not be
omitted, as no description can convey
a real impression of the Pass, its
natural strength, and the wildness of
the scenery. Before starting, the
traveller must apply to the Political
Officer in charge for a permit. He can
arrange to be driven to Ali Musjid
(16 m.) but must ride the rest of the
way to Lundi KotcU, The Pass is open
only on Tuesday or Friday for the
benefit of caravans, when it is guarded
by the corps of Khaiber Rifles^ Afridis
enlisted for the purpose. Several for-
tified posts, the chief of which are
Ali Musjid and Lundi Kotal (1700 ft.
above sea -level), are held by them.
The Pass is quite safe to Europeans
under their escort. The traveller will
probably accompany a long convoy of
camels, oxen, asses, heavily laden with
well-poised loads, climbing the defile.
10| m. by road, Jamrud, D.B.,
is the first place from which the
Khaiber Pass may be seen. The
carriage-road to this place runs due
W. from the Inf. Lines. At night it
is not safe to go beyond the cantonment
Police Post.
The Fort of Jamrvd was thoroughly
repaired by Hari Sing, and gallantly
held by him against the Afj^hans till
April 1837, when he was Killed in
battle against troops sent by Dost Mu-
hammad. The fort has three encircling
walls of stone, and stands on ground
raised about 100 ft. above the valley.
The Pass is a narrow winding defile
wending between cliffs of shale and
limestone rock 600 to 1000 ft. high,
stretching up to more lofty mountains
beyond. 8 m. from Jamrud is a village
on the top of a hill to the S. W., called
Kadam; and there is another at the
very entrance to the Pass,
Ou 5th April 1842, the
had blocked the Pass with a 1
stones, mud, and bushes, and 1
the height on both sides wii
men. But our disciplined-
clambered round the heig^ '
the greatest agility, took tiie-l ^
the rear from above, and ^
them. It was now time for Gen i
to advance with his main b g 'p^
the Pass — clearing the barrica r^ "
them. It was well that th \ i ^
taineers had been driven off, foJ| \\
had a long convoy of prov
ammunition for Sale's garris^ ^'
his care, and nearly a whole \
consumed in reaching the Fo] \y
Musjid, evacuated by the enena t::^
morning. The heights being i "^^
and held by our force, Jellala
relieved the next day ; and
after they sallied forth and
Muhammad Akbar's force, 60 ~
burning his camp and reca^
standards and 4 guns taken'
English. During the second
War (1879) Ali Musjid was ti
of heroic fighting on both sidi »V"
fort shows traces of three \ ^|^^J^^
periods, Buddhist, early ^^^^
medan, and British.
(2) Bara, D.B.— A visit may
to Bara, from which place
water has now been brought 1
war. There is a mud fort at 6 {
of the cantonment, close to
from which the water comes.
The conduit which brings tl
is made of blocks of concn
intervals of ^ m. there
towers for ventilation. The
siderable cultivation on the ;
Pnsht-i-Khar, half-way betwei
war and Bara, is an aqueduct I
In Bara Fort there is a bu^gf
the engineer officer. At 300 j
the W. of the fort is the i
There are other forts at the |
of the passes, such as Mich
kadar, and Abazai, but ]
visit them are necessary.
(8) Persons accustomed to a ]
in the saddle would enjoy a rtcl
from PeshawajKhrough the T
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ROUTE 13 a. cashmere
216
toEohat (1767 ft.), D.B., near the N.
bank of the Kohat Toi Mver, 2 m. from
the S. base of the Afghan mts. The
cantonment and civil station arc to
the E. and N.E. of the native town.
ROUTE 13a
Cashmere (also spelt Kashmir)
General DeBcription. — The valley of
Cashmere is an oval plain, some 84
HL in length and 20 to 25 in breadth,
at an average height of about 6000 ft.,
and entirely surrounded by the lofty
snow-clad ranges of the Karakoram and
Himalaya. Up to the end of May, and
sometimes by tiie beginning of October,
there is a continuous ring of snows
around the valley ; amongst which may
be mentioned, N. of the Wular Lake,
Nanga Parbat, 26,620 ft. ; E., Har-
amakh, 16,900 ft, and Amamath,
17,320 ft. ; S., the Panjal range with
peaks of 15,000 ft ; and W., Kazi Nag,
12,125 ft. These are all visible from
the valley. Farther distant, but still
in the territory of H.H. Maharaja
Sir Pratab Sing, of Jnmmu and Cash-
mere, G.C.S.I., are many peaks of over
20,000 ft., the highest of which is
probably Mt Godwin Austen, 28,278 ft.
The Chitral State is feudatory to Cash-
mere ; its highest peak, Agram, 25,426
ft., is about 200 m. N.W. of Srinagar,
in the Hindu Eush range.
The valley of Cashmere is watered
by the Jhelum and its tributaries,
which find an outlet in the narrow
gorge at Baramula, and finally join the
Indus in the Punjab. The soil is
fertile. Rice and maize are the chief
crops ; then come wheat, barley, and
orcnard or garden produce. The
saffron {Crocus sativus) is famous for its
bouquet, and its cultivation is an
ancient industry. The floating gardens
of the Dal lake are made of long strips
of the lake reed, which are moored at
the four corners by poles driven into
the lake bed ; then heaps of weed and
mud are formed into cones, and placed
on the reeds. Melons, tomatoes, and
cucumbers grow upon these cones with
astonishing vigour. The smghara^ or
water chestnut, grows wild in the Wular
and Dal lakes ; the kernel, which is
white and mealy, is either ground into
flour, or parched, and one pound of
kernel is suflicient for a day's food.
All the fruits and vegetables of temper-
ate climes grow well in the valley.
The mulberry, bitter cherry, plum,
apple, pear, grape, walnut, and pome-
granate are indigenous ; the apricot
and peach have spread all over the
valley since their introduction. The
forest trees grow to a great size. The
principal among them are the deodar
(the best, but not common), the blue
pine, spruce, and silver fir ; the elm,
walnut, poplar, maple, willow, plane
(or chenar), mulberry, and horse-
chestnut.
The climate is delightful in the earlv
summer. In July and August, although
the thermometer does not rise above 80°
or 85°, the stillness of the air causes the
heat to be oppressive in the valley, and
then the mosquitoes make up for their
comparatively mild sting by their
enormous numberQ. At this period
visitors are glad to ascend to the upland
plateaus, Gulmarg ; Sonamarg, in the
Sind valley ; Nagmarg ; Pailgam, at
the head of the Liddar valley, and
Gurais. The pleasantest months in
Srinagar, with a latitude of 34*'5 north,
are April, May, June, October, and
November. The spring months are
showery, July and August are some-
times rainy, and the snows set in about
Christmas time. The cold in winter is
sometimes severe. In 1890-1 the ther-
mometer fell below zero. In January
and February 1893 there was skating
all over the Dal lake.
One of the latest writers, Mr. Walter
Lawrence, says : "The valley contains
nearly everything which should make
life enjoyable. There is sport varied
and excellent, there is scenery for the
artist and layman, mountains for the
mountaineer, flowers for the botanist,
a vast field for the geologist, and
magnificent ruins for the arehseologist.
The epicure will find dainty fruits and
vegetables cheaper here than perhaps
in any part of the world, while the
lounger can pass ^elightful days of
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216
ROUTE 13 a. CARHMBRE
dolcefar niente in the mat house-boats
moored under the shady chenar tree."
The population of the valley is
814,241, of whom 118,960 inhabit the
capital, Srioagar. The Mohammedans
number 767, 000, and the Hindus 52,000.
The Hindus worship the likeness of Her
Msgesty the Queen Empress. They
regard as divine the sovereign de facto ,
but in the case of the Mogul Auriingzeb
they made an exception, and his likeness
was never worshipped, for he was a
persecutor of the Hindus.
Histoiy. — For many centuries Cash-
mere was ruled by Hindu princes, who
were succeeded by Tartars. In 1587
the country was conquered by the great
M ogul Akbar and annexed to his Indian
Empire. Akbar built the fort on Hari
Parbat hill. His successor, Jehangir,
made many expeditions to Cashmere,
where he planted chenar trees, and
constructed lovely pleasure - gardens.
In 1753 Cashmere passed into the hands
of the Durani Chiefs from Cabul, and
in 1819 Ranjlt Sing's general, Misser
Chand) defeated the Patan Governor,
Jabbar Khan, and annexed the country.
In 1846, after the overthrow of the Sikh
rule by the British Gk)vemment, Cash-
mere was assigned by treaty to Golab
Sing.
Antiquities. — The chief ruins of
Cashmere are those at Martand,
Avantipore, Pandritan, and the little
temple at Payeoh. They exhibit traces
of Greek influence, and are of great
archaeological interest.
The Coins of Cashmere are worthy
of notice.^
There are many Passes into Cash-
mere, mostly from the S. and W. The
following are the most frequented : —
1. From Rawal Pindi vid Murree
(p. 211), and the Baramula Pass.
2. From Gujrat (p. 209) vid Bhim-
ber and Pir Panjal (see p. 220).
3. From Jhelum (p. 209) vid Punch
(see p. 221).
4. From Hasan Abdal vid Abbota-
bad (p. 212) (see p. 221).
1 The best book on the subject is Coins of
KaOimi/r, by Mr. Rogers of Amritsar.
5. From Jummoo (p. 208) i
221).
(1) Murree Route to. Cash*
Rawalpindi
By tonga to
(From Murreefl
a short cut M^ I ^
path) to EohK^f ^
Dewal, 18 4,\\^
stead of 29 nu^^^
75 m. moaiCD.B.)
85 m. Domel(D.B.)
99 m. Garhl (D.B.)
108 m. Hatti.
119^ m. ChagGtl (D.B.)
188 m. Url (D.B.)
146 m. Bampur(D.B.)
162 m. Baramma (D.B.)
195 m. Srlnagar (D.B.).i
The above are easy stages,
are intermediate halting places,
is a D. B. at every stage (except IW
with a Ehansama and European i
plies.
The usual time for the journey
days, but it can be accomplished
days from Murree.
It is advisable to spend a dai
Rawal Pindi in order to make arrai
ments for the journey.
The road is well metalled all
way, though liable to interruption^^
from landslips in wet weather.) \i
Fare for Tonga (3 seats) 122 rs. , 1 se^
48 rs. Mail tongas do not travel bjf^
night. Ekkas can be procured for;
servants or baggage for 22 rs. These .
prices are from Rawal Pindi to Srin*??
agar.2 ^
If the traveller intends to march ^
into Cashmere by stages he can engine ^
coolies at 4 an. a stage, baggage ponies |
at 12 an. a stage, aud riding ponies r^
with saddles at 2 rs. a stage. [^
The road ascends steadily from Bawal
Pindi to
87 m. Murree a^ (see p. 211) (7700
ft.), and then begins to descend until
the Jhelum River is reached at
1 If the traveller intends to go beyood
Srinagar, it will be necessary for him to get »
camp Kit, ponies, etc All this can he arranged
at Srinagar, or by writing befordumd to
Cockbum's Agency, Srinagar.
2 Travellers who observe cruelty jpractised
upon the tonga horses are reqaestSd to fi»^
ward a written complaint to tiie lag^
Resident at Srinagar. t
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ROUTE 13a. MURREE ROUTE TO CASHMERE
217
27 m. Kohala(2000 ft), D.B. good.
(The bridle path by Dewal from Murree to
Kohala is 11 m. shorter than the tonga route.)
The road along the Jhelum valley is
hi in the summer months, so that
tmyelling in the early morning or
erening will be found the most agree-
able.
In addition to the very fine near
scenery along this road, grand views
; of the snows may be obtained in April
I and May. After crossing the) river by
a large suspension bridge, where toll is
levied, the road ascends the left bank
all the way to Baramula. There is a
picturesque, small, D. B. at
11 UL Dalai, D. B. good. From here
the road is cut in the face of the cliff,
and is liable to be blocked by landslips
after rain.
10 m. Domel, D.B. (where the route
from Hasan Abdal (4) falls in 1.) Here
the road turns at an acute angle, where
the Jhelum is joined by the Kishen-
gunga. About a mile N. is seen the
town of Mozufferabad, with one or two
temples, and beyond it is the Sikh
fort.
14 m. Oarhi, D.B. good. Late in the
afternoon this march is shaded by the
high hills.
9 m. Hattt. The scenery is bolder
and more beautiful.
11^ m. Caiagotl, D.B. There is a
swing bridge below the bungalow.
Soon after leaving Chagoti the ruins of
a mosque are passed, the carving of
which was copied, and a model sent
to London for the Colonial Exhibition.
13i m. Uri, D.B. good. The ffaji
Fir river, which falls into the Jhelum
from the S., is here crossed. For the
sake of the gradient the road makes a
long detour.
13^ m. Bampur, D.B. From here
the road is conaparatively leveL An
ancient temple, Bhawanigar, is passed,
and then the fort and village of Now-
shera.
15} m. Baramula, D.B. good. Here
Cashmere Doongas, or house boats can
be procured for the life on the river.
Two months are often spent on the
Jhelum, varied by expeditions up the
side valleys and to the numerous lakes.
The larger doongas may be hired for
20 rs. a month ; the smaller, generally
used for kitchen and servants, cost
15 rs. a month. These prices include
four boat people to each boat. English
house boats cost 30 rs. to 150 rs. a
month, according to accommodation,
and whether furnished or not. Some
of them have every comfort.
[On leaving Baramula by boat Sopor
is passed, where fair mahsir fishing
may be obtained. Sopor is the starting
point for the Lolab valley, Nagmarg,
and Gulmarg. When th^ river is hi^
boats go from Sopor to Shadipore by
the Naru Canal. If the water is in-
sufficient for the canal the Wular Lake
has to be crossed, which should be done
in the morning, as later in the day
dangerous storms sometimes arise. The
Wular Lake is the largest in India,
being 12J m. long by 5 m. broad. It
has good fishing. From the Wular
the boats join the river by a small
canal, which leaves the river at Hajan,
a large village where there is good
fishing. 8 m. up stream from Hajan is
Smnbal. This is the starting point
for the trip by boat to the exquisitely
beautiful Manasbal lake. Shadipore is
6 m. up the river from Sunibal, and
Srinagar about 10 m. farther by the
river. From Baramula to Srinagar by
the Naru canal takes little more than
one day ; by the Wular lake two to
three days.
From Baramula the traveller
can go by boat up the Pohra river
to Sunawin, the next day to Kolaa-
gam, and the Srd day, if the river
is full, to Awatkoola — very pretty
scenery. Sending the boat back to
Sopor, a pleasant march may be made
through the Lolab valley as follows.
Awatkoola to Kofwa/ra (8 m.) ; to Lal-
poor (18 m.), the capital of the Lolab
valley ; to Harwan (18 m.) ; back to
Sopor (10 m.), and then on to Srinagar
as above. The Lolab valley is very
pretty, and the marches easy. For-
merly black bears were numerous,
especially during the mulberry season,
but they are not now so common.]
From Baramula the tonga reaches
in four hours
33 m. SRINAQAB, 3^ or the city of the
Sun (5250 ft.), th^ capital of the Cash-
218
ROUTE 13 a. cashmere
India
mere state. It is beautiftdly situated
in the centre of the ** Happy Valley,"
has a population of 119,000, and is
dindea into two parts by the river
Jhdiim, along the banks of which it
stretches for nearly 2 m. The river is
crossed by qimint wooden bridges, its
banks are lined with carved blocks of
limestone, now unfortunately much
defaced by time and neglect.
The city, traversed by canals, was
built by the Raja Pravarasene in
the 6th cent., and consists chiefly of
wooden houses, some of them several
stories high. Surmounted by sloping
roofs covered with earth. Within
the SJier Oa/rhi, surrounded by massive
walls, are the City Fort and one of the
Summer Besidenoes of the Maharaja.
The Jumma Musjid is of considerable
size, and of interest as being designed
to be constructed in wood. All the
pillars which support the cloisters of
the courtyard are of deodar pine,
"honest wooden forms," with the
remains of rich and beautiful carving.
There is another wooden mosque in
the city, the Shah Hamadan, the roof
of which is probably similar to that
which covered the Temple of Martand.
The visitor should take a general
view of the city and its neighbourhood
from the top of the Takht-i-Suleiman
(Throne of Solomon) (6263 ft., i,e, 987
ft. above the city), where there is a
fine stone Temple said to be of great
antiquity, but probably not earlier
than the 16th cent. The road to it lies
along a famous Poplar Avenue, more
than 1 m. in length, and formed by
old and stately trees. He should also
ascend the Hari Parbat, an isolated
city on the N. outskirts of the city,
and 250 feet above it. It is surrounded
by an extensive wall, and surmounted
by the Fort built by Akbar at the end
of the 16th cent.
The Shaik Bagh Qhkt and Shah
Hamadan Musjid should be visited in
a small boat.
Good subjects for the artist may be
found in Srinagar, but the smells in
the town are often very objectionable.
The chief Industries are those of
the shawl -makers, gold, silver, and
copper smiths, papier-mach^ makers,
leather workers, and dealers in precious
stones.
EZCUBSIONS.
(1) The first excursion should be to
the Dal Lake, which ii close to Srinagar,
and is one of the most beautiful spots
in the world. The lake is about 4 ni.
long and 2i m. broad. Taking a small
boat with four or more rowers, the
traveller should proceed to the Nishat
Bagh, a good place for a picnic. Tlienoe
on to the Shalimar Bag^, built by
Shah Jehan, and further decorated by
Jehangir, who lived there in the summer
months with Nurmahal, his favourite
wife, introduced to us by Moore in
his Light of the Harem, On one side
of the garden is a heronry. Then
crossing the lake, another rest may be
taken in the Nasim Bag^ a delight-
ful spot. It is a fine park-like expanse,
closely planted with magnificent chcDW
trees ; well raised above the lake it
catches the breezes, whence its name
is derived. Then back to Srinagar,
passing a village with a large mosque,
called Hasrat Bal ; under the pic-
turesque Hari Parbat, and through the
Nasim Bagh Canal to the Dal Gate.
The eastern shore of the lake may be
reached on foot. Starting from the
Munshi Bagh the road leads S. of the
Takht'i-Smeiman, to the edge of the
lake. The wine factory is to .the left
A massive building, high up the moun-
tain-side farther on, is the reri Mahal,
probably originally erected for astro-
logical purposes. Beyond are vine-
yards, uid then higher up, the Chasmt
Shahi, a garden of the usual Mogul
plan. This is 8 m. from the Nunshi
Baffh ; the Nishat Bagh is 2 m. farther,
and Shalimar 2 m. beyond that
(2) Martand, Venia«r,andtheLiddar
Valley. Proceeding by boat up the
river, passing 8 m. Pampur^ 6 m
further is Karkapoor^ the starting
place for the temple of Payech. In
excellent preservati(m, this temple is
superior to all others in Cashmere ics
its beauty and elegance. It has been
ascribed by General Cunningham to
King Narendraditya, who reined fioB
483 to 490 A.D. In the interior is* j
large stone ^i'^ff^QqlQ • A
1
' Jola B«xtJia1aius<r A Co^tdaf
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ROUTE 13a. excursions
219
After passiDg *Karkapoor, the next
village of note is Ayantipore, once a
famous city and the capital of King
Ayanti-varmma, who reigned 858 to
888 A.D. He huilt here two temples,
now shapeless masses of ruins, but
the gateways of both are standing,
and the colonnade of the smaller one
has been partially excavated. About
10 m. further is Bijheharaj where there
is fair fishing ; and a good encamping
ground above the town. From here
it is 6 m. to Kanbal for Islamabad,
the second town in Cashmere, with
8000 inhabitants, and originally the
capital of the valley.
Here the boat is left, and a start
made for the Bnins of Martand, which
are 4^ m. N.K of Islamabad, and
stand isolated on an elevated plateau
above the valley. The building is
" interesting as a typical example
of a quasi - classical style, with a
Western impress on its details un-
usual in the East." Its date is uncer-
tain, and has been variously ascribed
to A.D. 370, 580, and 750. It has
suffered much from earthquakes and
neglect, and it is to be regretted so
little has been done to preserve it
The colonnade was built by the famous
King Lalitaditya, who reigned from
693 to 729 A.D.
From Martand a path leads to 5 m.
Atchibal, with its beautiful streams
and cascades, groves of magnificent
chenar trees, and the old pleasure
garden of Jehangir. There is a bunga-
low for visitors, and an excellent
camping ground.
From Atchibal a path leads via
Shahcibad to 12 m. Vemag. Here
are the celebrated springs, the source
of the River Jhelum, which rises in an
octagonal tank in a garden near the
foot of the Bunihal pass. One of the
recesses of the enclosure which sur-
rounds the tank bears an inscription
by Jehangir. This spot was a favourite
haunt of his empress, Nurmahal. The
tank is full of sacred fish.
There is good accommodation in the
bungalow overlooking the tank.
Returning to Martand, the traveller
should make for 2 m. Bawan, where
there are celebrated chenars, and tanks,
and excellent cam pine grounds. From
here it is 12 m. up the Liddar vidley
to Mshmaka/m, where there is an old
ziarat from which a fine view is obtained
of the valley. The next march reaohefi
14 m. Pailgam, (8500 ft.) This is a
favourite summer resort,- with good
camping ground under the pines.
From Pailgam an expedition may be
made farther up the valley to 12 m.
Tanin (10,600 ft.), whence it is a stift'
climb to 11 m. ShisJia Nag (18,000 ft),
a fine sheet of water covered with ice
till the month of June. From Shisha
Nag it is 16 m. to Amamath Cave, but
the walk is not easy. The cave is a
famous resort of pilgrims.
(3) Another beautiful expedition may
be made from Srinagar up the Bind
Valley. The first stage is either by
boat, or on foot, to 10 m. Oamderhaly
a small village at the mouth of the
valley. Ganderbal is only 5 m. by
road from the Nasim Bagh in the Dal
Lake. From Ganderbal the marches
up the valley are to Kangan (11 m.),
to Qoond (14 m.), to Oagangair (9 m.),
to Sonamarg (9 m.) Sonamarg (8500
ft.) contains lovely meadows, and was
once the chief sanitarium of Cashmere.
Then to BaUal (9 m.) 9282 ft. at the
foot of the Zojila Pass. From Baltal
one can go over the Zojila (11,300 ft)
to Dras, and thence to Leh, the capital
of Ladakh (19 marches from Srinagar).
From Baltal, the cave of Amamath
(see above) may be reached in the
spring or early summer, before the
snow bridges have melted. Provisions
are not easily obtained in the Sind
Valley ; and there are no bungalows.
(4) There are several routes from
Srinagar to Qolxnarg, if a very favourite
resort when the valley becomes hot.
Routes from Seinagar to
GULMARG.
1. By boat to the Purwtva Chowhi, below tlie
city. Thence by road to Martotm (18 m.) where
is camping ground and a D.B., thence it is 12
m. to Guunarg. The whole mstance may be
done in one day.
2. By boat to Palhallam, then by road, 16 m.
8. By boat to Sopor, then by road» 18 m.
4. By boat to Baramula, then by road 17 m.
(There is now a road all the way to Onl-
niarg).
I Gulmarg (or * * Meadow of Roses ") is
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220
ROUTE 13 a. cashmere
India
a lovely, but somewhat rainy, spot at
an elevation of 8500 ft. on a cool plateau
amongst pine forests. The fine snowy
peak of iNanga Parbat, nearly 27,000
ft., is beautifully seen. Gulmarg has
liunting, polo, racing, cricket, golf,
and other amusements.
(2) PiB Pakjal Route to Cashmere.
Ghijratto
Biding
or on foot.
28 m. fihlmber, D.B.
43 m. Saidabad, D.B., crossing Aditak
Range.
56 m. NowBliera, D.B.
70 m. Ohangas Serai, D.B.
84 m. Bajaori, D.B.
98 m. ThannaMandl, D.B. ) Crossing Rut-
108 m. Baramgalla, D.B. > ten Fir.
14% m. Shupiyan, D.B.
160 m. Sriiuigar.
This is one of the finest routes into
Cashmere. The traveller must either
ride or walk, as it is impossible to
drive.
28 m. Bhimber, D. B. , a considerable
town, situated near the rt. bank of the
stream of that name, and surrounded
by wooded hills. The road, which is
fairly easy for 20 m., crosses over the
Aditak range (2000 ft.) to
15 m. Saidabad, D.B. (provisions),
where the Samcmi Serai is worth a
visit. The road then crosses the
Kaman Ooahi range (3000 ft.), from
the top of which the snows first come
in sight.
15 m. Nowshera, D.B., and camp-
ing ground on the Tavn nver, in which
there is mahsir fishing.
14 m. Changas Serai, D.B. The
Tawi has to be forded twice on the
way. The D.B. is built on the rt.
bank, about 200 ft. above the river,
on an old Mogul Serai. Here is a very
fine view of the snows.
14 m. Bajaori, D.B. (3094 ft.), a
day's march to the E. of which there
are two hot sulphurous springs. The
D.B. is in an old pleasure garden on
the left bank of the river, overlooking
on the rt. the picturesque town.
14 m. Thanna Haadi, D.B., along
the Tawi, which becomes very narrow,
the valley^ also contracting consider-
ably. It is situated at the foot of the
RuUen Fir pass, with a good road
running through it from Punch to
Jummoo.
8 m. Baramgalla, D.B., crossing
the RvUen i\> (8200 ft), easy ascent,
verjr fine scenery. From this point
ponies cannot be taken if it is early in
the year. The cost of baggage coolies
from Baramgalla to Shupiyan is about
1-2.4 an. each.
6 m. Poshiana. From this point
the road passes along a deep valley,
crossing the Sooram, torrent sevenl
times by log bridges, and ending with
a steep climb. This place is covered
with snow till the end of May, and
consists of a few shepherds' huts, which
are flat-roofed. Tents may be pitched
on the roofs, or the huts may be oc-
cupied, but they are roughly made and
draughty. Proceeding up the Nikma
Valley as far as the summit of the
Pir Panjal (11,400 ft), the traveller
obtains a magnificent view of the
Wardwan and Astor range.
9 m. Aliabad Serai. This is not
habitable until the summer, owing to
the snow. It is therefore better to go
along the Lai Grolam road to Ihibchi,
an open meadow 10 m. farther, and
camp there. There are huts of refuge
on either side of the Pir in case of
storms.
19 m. Shnpiyan, D.B., in the
Cashmere valley, a pleasant, easy walk,
passing ffirpur, R.H., on the way.
There is camping ground here, and
supplies are procurable for the first
time since leaving Baramgalla. Hence
it is a couple of easy marches to Srina-
gar. Or the traveller can march
through Mohunpoora to Kaiibal, D.B.,
for Islamabad (p. 219), and then pro-
ceed by boat down the Jhelum nver
to Srinagar, about 14 hrs.
(3) Jhelum and Punch Route to
Cashmebe.
^^^, Jhelum to ^^fK
or on foot. •"«*•"« w ^j. ^^ f^^
18 m. Shikarpur. D.B. 89 m. SairalL
26 m. Tangrot, D.B. 106 m. Ponoh, D.B.
86 m. Chowmook. 115 m. Kahoota, D.B.
56 m. Raidaai. 130 m. Hyderabad,
84 m. Nekl. D.B.
66 m. Berarli 140 m. Url (for end of
74 m. KotU. Bte. see p. 218).
This route is long, the marches som-
ROUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARACHI
221
ihat difficnlt, and supplies scarce.
Owing to the steepness of the road in
{iaces, the traveller is recommended to
^e coolies rather than ponies.
13 m. SexkabpuR, D.B. (Route 15).
The road is unmetalled, but in good
jrder and level the whole way.
13 m. Tangrot, D.B. The road lies,
for the most part, in the bed of the
Jhelum, so can only be used when the
river is low. The hshing here is prob-
ably the best in India.
10 m. Chowmook, crossing the Punch
by a feiny. The ascent is by a very
rough path (only walking being pos-
sible) to the village of
10 m. Kaldani, prettily situated in
a valley. Thence by the worst march
in tiie route to
12 m. Neki, which is the residence
of a few cowherds. Supplies not ob-
tainable.
8 m. Berarli, a small village, where
there is ^ood spring water, and supplies
and oooUes plentiful.
8 m. Eotli, on the 1. bk. of the
Punch. The camping ground is through
the town, under some trees, among a
lot of streams working 20 flour mills.
Supplies, coolies, ponies, etc., abun-
dant.
15 m. Sairah, where black partridges
abound. The scenery here is very
pretty.
16 m. Punch, D.B., a largish town,
on the rt. bk. of the Sooran, the con-
^cuous features of which are the
iaja Moti Sin^s palace^ and the Fort,
10 m. Kahoota, D.B., a cluster of
huts up the Bitarh valley, commanding
a magnificent view of the surrounding
mountains.
15 m. Hyderabad, D.B., a small
mountain village, where supplies are
very scarce.
10 m. XJri, thence (see p. 217) to
Baramula and Srinagar.
(4) Hasan Abdal and Abbotabad
Bouts to Cashmere.
12 m. Dedur, D.B.
8 m. Haripur, D.B.
22 m. Al)l)Otaba(l, D.B.
16 m. Manserah, D.B.
18 m. Oarhl HaMbulla, D.B.
22 m. Domel, D.B.
(For continuation via Uri, see p. 217.)
The traveller who takes this route
must rely on the mail agents at Hasan
Abdal and Abbotabad for supplies and
information. The stages to Abbotabad
are generally done by ton«u
Hasan Abdal, D.B. (Route 18, p.
212).
12 m. Dednr, R.H., a roadside serai
and camping ground.
20 m. Huripnr, D.B., a large and
flourishing native town, lying in a
richly-cultivated valley.
42 m. Abbotabad, D.B. (p. 212).
58 m. MaxuMrah, D. B.
76 m. Oarhi Habibulla, D.B.
98 m. Domel, D. B., thence to Garhi,
Uri, etc. (p. 217).
(6) JUMMOO TO SbINAOAR.
This is almost exclusively a tmde
route and is much frequented. Travel-
lers are not permitted to go this way
except with special permission from
the Resident at Sialkot.
ROUTE 14
Lahore to Kabaohi
GxNSitAL Notes on Sind.
The refreshment rooms on the line from
Lahore to Karachi and Quetta (Chaman) are
indifferent. Notice for meals should be given
to the guard, who will telegraph orders free of
chaise. The stationmasters are obliging.
Wherever there is any shooting there is no
difficulty in obtaining local shikaris and
camels, but they should be engaged before-
hand bv writing. The beaters and camel men
are all keen sportsmen, but the tariff should
be arranged before starting. Camels cost
about fls.1.8 per dav, beaters 4 annas to 8
annas. In nearly all parts of Sind there is
good small-game shooting— many varieties of
duck, quail, snipe, kunje, oustard ; and a good
shot should have no difficulty in getting over
60 brace a day. Loaded cartridges can be
obtained in abundance at Karachi in the
Sudar Bazaar.
4 m. Meean Meer west sta. military
cantonment.
26 m. Baewind junc. sta. (R.) for
34 m. Ferozepore and Rajputana (see
Rte. 8).
88 m. Gamber sta.
103 m. Montgomery sta. (R.), D.B
Digitized by VjOOQIC
222
BOUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARACHI
India
This place, created under British rule
since 1855, is the headquarters of a
district formerly known as Gugaira,
situated in the Ban Doab, and stretch-
ing across the Ravi into the Bechna
Doab. Sikh rule began in 1818, and
British in 1849. On tne opening of the
railway the headquarters of the dis-
trict were moved here from Gugaira,
and it received its present name
from Sir R. Montgomery, then Lieut-
Governor of the ranjab. [From this
point may be reached Pak Pattan, 30
m. S., near the Ghara or Sutlej river,
is an extremely ancient place, first
known in history as Jjudhan, and
identified by General Cunningham with
one of the towns belonging to the
Sudrakoe or Oxudrakoe of Alexander's
historians. It was important at a
later date as the chief ferry over the
Ghara. Now it is best known on
account of the Tomb of Farid-u-din,
a Mohammedan saint of the Chisti
family. A great pilgrimage of Moham-
medans takes place here at the time of
the Muharram, as many as 60,000
attending.]
116 m. Harapa sta. A hamlet now
of no importance, but identified by
General Cunningham with the site of a
town in the territory of the Malli at-
tacked and taken by Alexander the
Great. The ruins, which are the most
extensive of any along the banks of the
Ravi, lie to the N. of the line and close
to it. On the N.W. and S. there is a
continuous line of mounds 3500 ft. in
length. On the E. side there is a gap
of 800 ft The whole circuit of the
ruins is nearly 2^ m.
About the centre of the W. side are
the remains of a great Hindu temple,
said to be of the time of Eaja Harpal.
The walls have 1 een removed, and with
the mounds have more than sufficed
to furnish brick-ballast for 100 m. of
the Lahore and Mooltan Rly. A
little to the E. is a Naugaja (or **nine
yarder") tomb, said to be that of one
Nur Shah. In the plain below are
three large stones, one with a hole in
the middle lOJ in. in diameter. They
are called nal and mankaf and are said
to be the thumb rings of the giant
buried in the Naugaja tomb.
General Cunningham attributes the
destruction of Harapa to Muhammad-
bin-Easim in 713 a.d. Harapa has
yielded thousands of Indo- Scythian
coins, but not a single Greek one.
207 m. MooltaxL (MuUan) City and
208 m. Mooltan CaxLtonment (R.)
D.B. a^ June. sta. From here the Sind-
Saugar Railway runs W. (46 m. to Ohad
Ghat) for Dera Ghazi Khan (see p. 224),
and N. for Dera Ismail Khan.
MooUan city (D.B. 1^ m. N. of rly.
sta.) is a municipal town, with a pop. of
74,500, of whom the majority are Moham-
medans. It is the capital of a district
of the same name, and is 4 m. from the
left bank of the Chenab, and not far from
the old bed of the Ravi It is a place of
great antiquity, and supposed to be the
capital of the Malli mentioned in Alex-
ander's time. Cunningham supports
this view by his discovery of a deposit
of ashes and burnt earth at a depth of
about 30 to 32 ft., which he thinks is
the remains of a conflagration and
wholesale massacre which took place
during Alexander's campaign, owing to
the exasperation of his soldiers at his
having received a dangerous wound at
the capture of the place. It is said to
have been founded by Kashypa, the
father of Hiranya-Kashipu, and was
probably the Kaspeira of rtolemy.
The first mention of Mooltan by name
is by Hiouen Thsang in 641 a.d.
Istakhri, who wrote in 950 A.D., de-
scribes the temple of the idol of Mooltan
as a strong edifice between the bazaars
of ivory dealers and the shops of the
coppersmiths. The idol was of a human
shape, with eyes of jewels, and the
head covered with a crown of gold.
Shortly after, Mooltan was taken by the
Karmatian chief, Jelem, son of ShibaD,
who killed the priests and broke the
idol in pieces. It was restored in 1138.
In 1666 A.D. Thevenot describes the
temple of the Sun God as still standing,
and the idol as clothed in red leather,
and having two pearls for eyes.
Muhammad Kasim conquered Mool-
tan for the Khalifs, and it was after-
wards taken by Mahmud of Ghazni,
1005. Subsequently it formed part of
the Mogul Empire. In 1779 Muzaffar
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ROUTE 14. MOOLTAN
Klftn, a Sadozai Afffhan, made himself
mier, but was killed with his five sons
^en Ranjit's army stormed the place in
laS. Aurangzib destroyed the temple
afid statne of the Sun, and no trace of it
\ns to he found when the Sikhs took
Mooltan. In revenge they turned the
timbof the Mohammedan saint, Shams-
Mabriz, into a hall for reading the
^rarUh. In 1829 the Sikhs appointed
Sawan Mall governor. He was shot in
:844, and was succeeded by his son
Mulraj. He resigned, and Mr. Vans-
A.gnew and Lieut. Anderson were sent
down to receive the surrender of his
office. They were murdered with his
connivance at the Ideah, and war
with the British ensued. On the 2d
of January 1849 the city was stormed
by the army under General Whish, and
since then the whole district has been
goFerned by the English.
The heat of Mooltan is notorious, and
the rainfall is little above 7 in. The
saying is —
Dust, beggars, and cemeteries
Are the three specialities of Mooltan.
The Cantonmentt to the W. of the
town, was extended to the S.W. and
made more defensible in 1888. The
Lines of the N. Cavalry are to the
extreme S. outside the cantonment,
\vith the Artillery I^ines to their N., and
beyond these, in the same direction,
are the hospital and D.B., with the R.
Catholic cemetery to the N.W., and
the Mohammedan cemetery, the Parsi
cemetery, and the English church in
succession to the N.
The first visit should be to the Old
Port. Entering at the W. or De Gate
(from Dewal = temple, because the
ancient Temple of the Sun stood here),
OS I is the Shrine of Buknn-din, grand-
son of Bhawal Hakk, commonly known
asRukn-i-'Alam, "Pillar of the World."
This is an octagon of red brick, bonded
with beams of Sisu wood, and supported
by sloping towers at the angles. Over
this is a smaller octagon, leaving a
narrow passage all round for the
innezzin to caU the faithful to prayers.
Above this is a hemispherical dome.
The total height is 100 ft., but it
stands on high ground, and it can be
seen for 50 m. all round. One of the
towers was thrown down when the
powder magazine blew up in December
1848, and was rebuilt in faithful imita-
tion of the old one, including the timber
bonds. The whole outside is orna-
mented with glazed tile patterns and
string courses and battlements. The
colours used are dark blue, azure, aiid
white, which, contrasted with the deep
red of the finely polished bricks, give
a most pleasing effect The mosaics
are not like those of later days, mere
plain surfaces, but the patterns are
raised from i an in. to 2 in. above
the background. This adds to the
effect
This tomb was built by the Emperor
Tughlak, 1340-60, for himself, but
given by his son Muhammad Tughlak
as a mausoleum for Ruknu-din.
To the N. there is a small mosque,
which has been dismantled, and over
the dome of which is a broken in-
scription with the names of the four
first Khalifs. The door faces E., and
is made of very old Shisham wood ;
inside towards the W. is a recess
with the Ayat-i-Kursi carved in large
letters.
In an inner court to the right is an
Obelisk about 60 ft high, erected in
memory of Vans-Agnew and Anderson,
who were murdered, at the 'Idgah with
7 cupolas I m. N. of the Fort, in 1848.
On a white tablet on the W. face of the
pedestal is the inscription which teUs
briefly an important chapter of the
history of the ranjab. The concluding
words are —
The annexation of the Paivjab to the Bmpire
Was the result of the War,
Of which their assassination
Was the commencement
The Tomb of Baha-nd-din Zakha-
-iya, "The Ornament of the Faith,"
commonly called Bahau '1 Hakk, or
Bhawal Hakk, is as old as the reign
of the Emperor Balban (1264-86), of
which period there is only one other
architectural specimen. It was almost
completely ruined during the siege of
1848. It was afterwards repaired and
plastered over, but some glazed tiles
remain outside. The lower part is a
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224
ROUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARACHI
India
square ; above this is an octagon half
the height of the sqaare, and above
that a hemispherical dome. The son
of Bhawal Uakk) whose name was
Sadru-din, is buried in the same
tomb.
The cenotaph is adorned with bright
green tiles. Opposite, in the corner of
the vestibule, is the tomb of Nawab
Muzaffar Khan.
About I m. to the N. of the Fort is
the Idgah in which Vans Agnew and
Anderson were murdered in 1848. It
has been restored to the Mohammedans
as a place of worship.
The Tomb of Shams-i-Tabrii stands
J m. to the K of the Fort on the high
bank of the old bed of the Eavi The
main body of the tomb is a square sur-
rounded by a verandah with seven
openings in each side. Above is an
octagon surmounted by a hemispheri-
cal dome covered with glazed sky-blue
tiles. The whole height is 62 ft. The
saint lived in the time of Shah Jehan.
To the left of the entrance is a small
square building, dignified with the
name of the Imambarah.
[Ezcursioii to Dera Ghasi Khan.—
Rly. via 12 m. Slier SJiah ixxno. , 37 m.
Mahmud Kot to 47 m. Ohaii Ohat. sta.
The Chenab, about 1 m. broad, is
crossed at Sher Shah, on a splendid
bridge of 17-200 ft. girders. Ghazi
Ghat sta. is on the 1. beink of the In-
dus, which has to be crossed to
Dera Ohaii Khan, a municipal town,
and headquarters of a district of the
same name, containing an area of 4877
sq. m. The city was founded by
a Balnch chief named Ghazi Khan
Makrani in 1475 A.D. The district
consists of a narrow strip of land be-
tween the Indus and tne Sulaiman
Mountains. The sights of the place
are some large and striking mosques,
the chief of which are those of Ghazi
Khan, Abdu '1 Jawar, and Chuta Ehan.
The civil and military cantonments are
W. of the town, which is the head-
quarters of the Church Medical Mission
to the Baluchis.]
Resuming the journey from Mooltan,
the line reaches.
218 m. Sher Shah junc. sta., D.B.,
whence the Sind-Saugar Rly. branches
oflf W. and N.
269 m. Adamwahan Bridge, 4224 ft.
long, carries the Indus Vallejr Rly.
across the Sutlej river. The height of
the roadway above the stream is 28 ft
272 m. Babawalpor sta. (junc. for
Batinda and thence for IJmballa, Delhi,
or Bewari) D.B., is a town with about
20,000 inhabitants, and the capital of a
native state under l^e political direction
of the government of the Panjab. Its
area is about 22,000 sq. m., with a
of nearly 600,000, of whom four-
are Mohanunedan. The language is a
mixture of Sindi and Panjabi. The
Nawab of Bahawalpur ranks on the list
of Panjab chiefs next after Patiala. His
ancestors came from Sind, and assumed
independence after the first expulsion
of Sna Shiga firom Kabul.
In 1847-48, Bhawal Khan, the then
Nawab, assisted Sir Herbert Kdwardes
during the Mooltan rebellion, for which
he was rewarded with a life-pension of
a lakh of rs. and the gift of the dis-
tricts of Sabzalkot ana Bhaungbara.
His son, S'aadat Khan, was expelled
by his elder brother, and died a refugee
in British territory in 1862. In 1863
and 1865 rebellions broke out, but were
crushed by the Nawab, who died soon
after.
PcUace of the Natoahf w^hich is to the
£. of the town, cost about £80,000.
It is a square pile, with towers at each
comer. In the centre is a hall for
holding receptions. There is a fountain
in front. At the side are undeigronnd
rooms where the thermometer remains
at 70**, while it rises from 100* to 110°
in the upper rooms. Ascending to the
roof, the visitor will have an extensive
view E. towards the vast Desert of Bid-
aneer which stretches, waterless, away
for 100 m.
There is a Horse Farm, where are
many fine animals, particularly brood-
mares.
The Jail is to the E. of the town.
Following the course of the Indus,
through an uninteresting tract, the
rly. reaches
417 m. Beti sta. (R.) A rest-ctmp
for troops between Karachi and Lahore
has been established here. 4 m. S. of
d by Google
ROUTE 14. RETI, ROHRI
225
Beti are the vast ruins of Vijnotf a
diief city before the Mohammedan Con-
quest A mouth of the E, Nara Canal
pee below) is orossed 2 m. before reach-
hg Rohri, and &om Rohri runs due S.
through Khairpur, and enters the Thar
Parkar district. Seen from a distance,
Rohri has a striking appearance ; the
houses being four and five stories high,
with flat roofis surrounded by balus-
trades.
487 m. Bohri sta. D.B., a muni-
cipal town (pop. 9000), the capital of
a subdistrict of the same name, which
has an area of 4258 sq. m. It is on
the left, or £. bank of the Indus, on
a rocky eminence of limestone, inter-
spersed, with flints. It is said to have
lien founded by Saiyad Ruknu-din
Shah in 1297 A.D., which was more
than 300 years after the Indus deserted
its former bed at Alor and came to
Bohri. The rocky site of Kohri ends
on the W. side in a precipice 40 ft.
high, rising from the river bank. In
the latter part of the rains the water
rises 16 ft. above its lowest level.
The Jwmma Musjid is a fine building
of red brick, with three domes, and
coated with glazed porcelain tiles. A
Persian inscription records that it was
built by Fath Ehan, an officer of the
Emperor Akbar, about the year 1572
A.D. One of the sights of the place
is the Mui Mubarak^ or "hair of the
Prophet, " in this case a hair and a half.
They are set in amber and preserved in
a gold tube adorned with rubies. It
is said that the War Mubarak, a build-
ing 25 ft square, on the N. of the
town, was erected about 1545 by Mir
Hnhammad for the reception of these
hairs. It appears they were brought
from Constantinople by one Abdu '1
Baki, whose descendants have still the
keeping of them. The ^Idgah was
erected in 1593 A.D., by Mir Muhammad
M'asum. Near Rohri are three forests
covering 68,000 acres, or about 90 sq.
iQ., which were planted in 1820 by the
Talpur Amirs, and are now under the
control of the Sind Forest Department.
4 m. from Rohri at the mouth of
\Indi(Jb\
the Eastern Nara Canal, 156 ft. wide,
are the powerful Sluice Gates which
regulate the supply of water from the
Indus. When these gates are closed
during inundations it is a wonderful
sight to see the fish trying to pass them.
Millions collect on these occasions, and
in attempting to leap the falls, fall back
into common Indian cots, made of rope,
which are suspended from the arches of
the regulator. The fishing is let out by
yearly contract and yields a handsome
revenue to Government and local funds.
[ExcuTBion to Alor. — While at Rohri,
a visit mav be paid to the very ancient
town of Alor, which is only 5 m. distant
to the E. This was the capital of the
Hindu Rajahs of Sind, ana was taken
from them by the Mohammedans, under
Muhammad Easim, about 711 a.d. At
that time the Indus washed the city of
Alor, but was diverted from it by an
earthquake about 962 A.D., at which
time the river entered its present
channel.
The road from Rohri passes over a
bridge about 600 ft. long, which is across
the ancient channel of the Indus. On
the farther side is a village with about
100 inhab., and from this an extensive
ridge of ruins runs in a N.E. direction.
That which bears the name of ' Alamgirs
Mosque is picturesque. Two of them
are shrines, one to Shakarganj Shah
and the other to Eutbu-din Shah.
To the former tomb people of the
neighbouring villages still make pil-
grimages, ft has no dome or building
over it, but is a plain, white, neat
tombstone, with a border of carved
flowers.]
Opposite to Rohri, in the Indus, is
the Island of Khvxyah Khizr. Here is
a mosque of great apparent antiquity.
It has an inscription, the date 952 a.d.
The shrine of Ehizr, who was also
called Zindah Pir, or "the living
saint," is venerated by Hindus and
Mohammedans alike.
A little to the S. of the isle of Ehizr
is the larger Island of Bhakkur. It is
a limestone rock of oval shape, 800 yds.
long, 300 yds. wide, and about 25 ft.
Digitized by VjOOQ Q
226
ROUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARACHI
India
high. Almost the whole of it is occupied
by a fortress, which has two gateways,
one facing Kohri on the E., the other
Sukkur, on the W. The Amirs at-
tached much importance to this fort.
But on our advance to Kabul in 1838,
it was placed at the disposal of our
Government, and was used for some
time, first as an arsenal and then until
1876, as a prison for Baluchi robbers.
So early as 1327 a.d., Bhakkur seems
to have been a place of note, for
the Emperor Muhammad Tughlak sent
persons of importance to command
there. Under the Samma princes the
fort changed hands several times,
being sometimes under their rule and
sometimes under that of Delhi. Dur-
ing the reign of Shah Beg Argun the
fortifications were rebuilt, the fort of
Alor being destroyed to supply the
requisite material. In 1574 it was
delivered up to Keshu Khan, an official
of the Emperor Akbar. In 1736 it
fell into the hands of the Kalhoras,
and subsequently into those of the
Afghans, who retained it till it was
taken by Mir Rustam of Khairpur.
The Indus, which runs here with
great rapidity, is crossed by the grand
Lansdoume Bridge^ erected on the canti-
lever principle^ connecting Rohri with
the Island of Bhakkur : the line then
crosses the island, and is connected
with Sukkur (see below) by another
bridge of a single span. The span is
840 ft. from centre to centre of the can-
tilevers ; each cantilever is 320 ft long,
and the central girder connecting them
is 200 ft. long. The roadway is 18 ft.
wide in the clear, or enough for a line of
carts in each direction. A single line
of railway is laid in the centre. The
cart traffic of course stops whilst trains
are crossing, A path 4i ft. wide for
foot and pony traffic is also provided on
each side outside the railway, and can
be used at all times. The total weight
of steel and iron employed is within
3000 tons.
490 m. Sukkur sta. (R.) D.B.a^
The headquarters of the Sukkur and
Shikarpur subdistrict, standing on the
rt bank of the Indus, has a pop. of
13,000, and is well drained and clean.
The locomotive shops of the N. W. Rly.
are here. A series of low limestone
ridges, without a blade of vegetation,
slope down to the Indus, and on them,
about 1 m. ofi", is the European quarter
called New Sukknr, to distinguish it
from the old town of the same name.
The white roads between the ridges
create a glare ^ during the day-time
which is extremely unpleasant. In
1845, owing to a fatal epidemic of
fever among the garrison, it was
abandoned as a station for European
troops. There is not much to be
seen, except the tombs of Shah Ehairu-
din, built about 1768, and Muham-
mad ATasumy in the cantonment at
Sukkur at the foot of a tower 90 ft. hieh
which he erected, and which overlooks
the country for many miles. The town
was ceded to the Khairpur Amirs, be-
tween 1809 and 1824. In 1838 Shah
Shiga'a defeated the Talpurs here with
great loss. In 1842 it came under
British rule.
507 m. Buk junc. sta. (R.). From
here the Sind, Pishin, and Quetta Rail-
way branches N". (see Rte. 15).
540 m. Larkana sta. ,D.B., is a muni-
cipal town (pop. 11,000), the capital of
a subdistrict of the same name. The
country surrounding it is fertile and
populous, and perhap« the finest tract in
the whole of Sind. The spacious walks,
well-laid-out gardens, and luxuriant
foliage have gamed for it the title of the
Eden of Sind. It is one of the most im-
portant grain marts in that country,
and is famous for a species of rice called
sugdasi.
There is a large local traffic in metals,
cloth, and leather. The prind^wl
manufactures are cloth of mixed silk
and cotton, coarse cotton cloth, metal
vessels, and leather goods. The fort
served in the time of the Talpurs as an
arsenal, and under British rule it has
been turned into a hospital and jaiL
There is no edifice in Larkana worth
notice, except the tomb of Shah
Baharah.
1 Coloured or son -tinted glasses can be
obtained, and are a great relief to the eyes,
even in winter, firora the glare of the sand io
Sind.
Digitized
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ROUTE 14. SEHWAN
227
630 m. Sehwan sta. (D.B. in the old
Ptrt). i^ The chief town (pop. 6000),
117 ft. above sea, of a subdistrict of
^e same name in the Karachi district.
Tie rirer Aral, which is crossed by a
bidge with iron girders, formerly
ibwed close to the town, but has now
aaite deserted it. There are many pro-
essional mendicants, supported by the
ffiferings of pilgrims at the shrine of
Lai Shahbuz. The tomb of this saint
^ enclosed in a quadrangular building,
which has a dome and hmtem, and is
adorned with beautiful encaustic tiles,
with Arabic inscriptions. Mirza Jani,
of the Tarkan dynasty, built a still
larger tomb to this saint, which was
completed in 1639 a.d. by Nawab Din-
dar Khan. The gate and balustrade are
> said to have been of hammered silver,
[ the gift of Mir Karam 'Ali Talpur, who
also crowned the domes with silver
spires. The chief object, however, of
antiqaarian interest in Sehwan is the
Fort ascribed to Alexander the Great.
This is an artificial mound in the N.W.
' part of the town, said once to have
been 260 ft high, but now only 60 ft. ,
measuring round the summit 1600 ft.
X 800 ft. , and surrounded by a broken
wall. The remains of several towers
are visible, but the fortifications are
mined.
Sehwan is the centre of the Govern-
ment system of Canals, 37 in number,
of which the principal are the W. Nara,
30 m. long, and over 100 ft. wide at its
mouth ; the Ohar^ 22 m. long, and 80
ft. wide ; the Naurarig, a continuation
of the Ghar, 21 m. long, and 90 ft. wide ;
the Birei-ji-Kur, 27 m. long, and 48
ft wide ; and the Men Wah, 23 m.
long. The Indus here was very deep,
bttt daring the last five years it has
changed its course, and is now nearly
3 m. distant from the town of Sehwan.
Half the houses in this town were
thrown down by a tremendous fall of
ndn in the end of July 1889.
There is good Shooting to be had in
the Sehwan district ; hyenas, wild hog,
wolves, foxes, jackals, the hog-deer, and
the chinkarahy or "ravine antelope,"
are common, but the tiger is unknown.
[The Manchhar Lakes^c is not very
far from Sehwan to the W. It is formed
by the expansion of the W. Nara Canal
and the Aral river, covering an area
of 160 sq. m. in the wet season,
but shrinking to about half that size
at other times. In the cold weather
the traveller might halt for a couple of
days to see the lake, where there is
abundance of water-fowl shooting, and
excellent snipe, quail, and partridge
shooting round the edge of the lake, and
an extraordinary number of fine fish.
The fish are generally caught with
spears or nets. The boat, which is
flat-bottomed, is propelled by one man,
while another, armed with three or
four light cane spears, 8 ft. long, and
barbed at the tip, stands at the prow
watching the water; as soon as he
sees a fish flash through the weeds,
with which the lake is covered, he
hurls a handful of spears in that direc-
tion, and is sure to strike one or two
fish, which, as the spear becomes en-
tangled in the weeds, cannot go far, and
are followed and lifted into uie boat.
For the other method of catching the
fish, an ingenious circular enclosure of
nets supported by poles is laid down in
the lake. A flotilla of small boats
containing men with drums and other
noisy instruments surrounds the en-
closure at some distance and gradually
draws nearer.
" The fish, frightened by the din, and
not daring to escape through the boats,
press heavier and nearer to the net.
Then when the boats approach, huge
dambhros are seen flinging themselves
into the air to a height of from 3 to 4
ft. , hoping to jump over the lower net,
but only to strike against the upper
one and fall into the bag below, a self-
made prey. In the meantime, men
with spears hurl them at the huge
gandamSi which are unable to leap, and
lifting them high in the air over the
net, deposit them in the boats.
Divers then go inside the net, and
examine it carefully under water, secur-
ing such fish as may be endeavouring
to force a passage through it. These
men in their haoits seem almost am-
phibious" (Gaz. of Sindh, p. 710).]
641 m. Laki sta. (R.), good quail,
Digitized by VjOOQ
ROUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARACHI
India
duck, and snipe-shooting in the neigh-
bourhood. The Indus Valley State
Railway runs through the Laki Paas,
at an elevation of 200 ft., the Indus
lying below. This range of hills con-
tains several hot springs, and shows
many signs of volcanic action ; various
kinds of sea-shell, including the oyster,
are found. Lead, antimony, and copper
are also found, though not in great
quantities.
716 m. Kotri sta. (R.), D.B., 3^ for Hy-
derabad across the Indus. The steamer
Madock has been converted into a flat,
and is stationed at the Bander R. sta.
as a rest-house for travellers. There is
a booking-office on board. There are
two rly. stas., the Main Station (IJ m.
from the town), whence there is a short
branch to the Bander Station. This
place with its hamlets has a pop. of
9000. The river bank presents a very
animated scene. Sidings convey goods
from the railway to the river by zigzag
routes, so constructed as to suit any
condition of the stream in flood or
drought. The civil station and Euro-
pean quarter are N. and W. of the
native town, and are well planted and
well kept, and contain the usual
Government buildings.
[From Eotri there is a Government
steam ferry to Oidn Bandar whence
it is a drive of about 3^ m. along a fine
avenue of trees to carriages in readiness
for Hyderabad (1st cl. about 2 rs.).]
HTDB&ABAD(Haidarabad), D.B., has
a pop. of 60,000 inhabitants. It is
situated on a high part of the rocky
ridge called the Ganjah Hills, in an
island formed by the Indus and the
Fuleli, a branch which, leaving the
main stream 12 m. above the town,
rejoins it 15 m. below. The modern
city of Hyderabad was founded by
Ghulam Shah Ealhora in 1768. His
tomb is at the N. W. of the plateau on
which the town stands.
The Fort of Hyderabad is of a very
irregular form, corresponding with the
natural shape of the rock, on which a
wall of burnt brick from 15 to 30 ft
high, thick at the base, but tapering
upwards, has been built. It supports
a quantity of earth which has been
piled against it inside, and is pierced
with numerous loopholes. The bastions
at the salient angles give the fortress
an appearance of strength, but it coald
not withstand heavy artillery. The
whole enceinte is about | m. in circum-
ference, and is towards the S. of the
plateau ; and at the S. extremity of all
IS the huge round tower, erroneously
supposed to have been the treasury of
the Amirs. On the N. side a trench
separates the citadel from the town. It
is crossed by a bridge leading to one of
these intricate gateways which have so
often yielded to a coup de maiiu Every-
where else is level ground. Where the
walls do not rise immediately from the
edge of the declivity, the defence is
strengthened by a ditch 10 ft wide
and 8 ft. deep. Within the walls of
the Fort were formerly the residencescf
the principal Amirs, with those of thai
families and numerous dependants.
The area, which is considerable, had its
streets, its mosques, and public build-
ings, and was quite a town, with a
dense population. These buildings
have now almost disappeared, and the
Commissary of Ordnance and the Ex-
ecutive Engineer divide the Fort be-
ween them as an arsenal and store-
house. Mir Nasir Khan's palace alone
is kept up, and is occupied by the
Commissioner in Sind, on his annual
tour, and by other officers of rank,
when visiting Hyderabad. Sir C.
Napier frequently resided in this
palace, and in it he held his Grand
Darbar on 24th and 25th May 1844,
when every chief in Sind came from
far and near to submit himself to the
conqueror. Most of the buildings in
the Fort were painted within and with-
out in fresco. The mosques were faced
with Hala tiles of the gayest colours,
so that the whole had a most gorgeous
appearance. Time and neglect have
made sad changes ; but there is one
room in Mir Nasir Khan's palace
styled the Painted Chamber, which is
still tolerably perfect, and gives some
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 14. HYDERABAD
229
^ea of what the effect must haye been
iien all was uninjured. In the re-
eeses yarious historical subjects con-
Ected with the Talpur family are
^lineated. In one recess is a yery
hdifferently- executed picture of an
£nglish gentleman and an Amir, the
vork of a natiye artist, who obliter-
ited one of the least popular subjects,
md introduced these ngures, one of
which is intended for Colonel (Sir
James) Outram. Round the chamber
is a balcony commanding a fine
panoramic yiew, and on the wooden
bdustrade were two sockets, cut by
order of Sir C. Napier. A telescope
placed in one pointed to the battle-field
of Miani, and if moyed to the other
showed the place where the yictory
of Dabo or Hyderabad was gained.
Above the gateway of the fort is a room
which looks down on the principal
bazaar. From this room, in the after-
noon, it ia worth while to watch the
motley crowds of all nations, in various
costumes, which throng the mart below.
The visit to the Fort should conclude
with a walk round the ramparts and an
ascent to the top of the circular tower,
whence a fine view of the surrounding
country with the Fuleli, on one side,
winding through the dusty plain, and
on the other side, of the rapid Indus,
with its buttress of rock in the back-
ground, will be obtained.
Leaving the Fort, the traveller should
pass through the bazaar to the market-
place, around which new Hyderabad
is fast rising up. As the old town was
crowded and aifficult to improve, the
ramicipality laid out new streets, and
erected a market-place, a school, and
other public buildings. Beyond the
Jail are the Tombs of the Kalhoras
OMd TaZptirSf which cover the northern
portion of the hill on which Hydera-
bad is built. The tombs of the Talpurs
are very beautiful, but are not in such
exquisite taste as that of QTmlam Shah
KcUhora, the description of which may
serve for all. On entering the enclosure
by a small but richly carved door, the
visitor is impressed by the beautiful
symmetry of the mausoleum, and the
religious feeling displayed in the decora-
tions. Latticed windows in the lofty
dome sparingly admit the light, and
shed a subdued lustre over an exqui-
sitely carved marble tomb, at the same
time revealing the rich fresco paintings
on the walls, without giving them too
much prominence. The walls had in
many places cracked, and bulge out ;
but Government has done what is pos-
sible to arrest further decay. The
building is quadrangular, with a dome
in the centre resenibling in miniature
what may be seen in the Mohammedan
tombs of Bijapur. Over one of the
archways is an inscription in Persian
written by the orders of his son Sara-
farzj whose tomb adjoins, and was built
in 1785 A.D. It is painted inside,
and is in good repair. There are
four other tombs of the Talpur family —
that of Mir Skram Al% a domed
rectangular building, with a turret
at each corner, buut in 1812, with
marble fretwork, and roofed with
coloured tiles ; that of Mirs Murad
'Ali, Nur Muhammad, Nasir Khan
and Shahdad Khan, built in 1847
with white marble tombs inside ; those
of Mir Ghulam Shah and Fazl *Ali,
erected in 1855 ; and that of Mir Mu-
hammad, built in 1857. All the Tal-
pur tombs, except Earam 'Ali's, are
kept in good order, at the cost of sur-
viving members of the family.
The Cantonment lies to the N. W. of
the town. There is a fine range of
Barracks for Europeans. Not far off,
overlooking the Gidu Bandar Road, is
the Chwrm of St. Thomas, built in
1860, at a cost of 45,000 rs. It can
hold 600 persons. It has several
memorial windows, and on the N. side
of the communion-table is a brass
showing the number of officers and
men who fell at Miani and Dabo
(1843).
The Roman Catholics have had a
church at Hyderabad from the time
of the conquest.
In the Jail (for about 400 prisoners)
good Persian carpets and rugs are made
by the convicts, also mats and a great
variety of cotton cloths.
A speciality is a kind of Phulcari
with small pieces of talc or glass sewn
upon them. ^ .
Digitized byLjOOQlC
230
ROUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARAOHt
Tndia
Manufacture!. — Hyderabad is fa-
mous for its enibraidenes in silk and
gold and its silver tissaes. There are
4 or 5 famous fabricants, each work-
ing with a different stitch. The pat-
terns are of endless variety. All the
work is made on a simple wood
frame, similar to that formerly used
by ladies for worsted work. Enamel-
ling. — In the Amirs' time there was a
great demand for this manufacture, the
principal sardars vying with each other
in the beauty and costliness of their
swords, matchlocks, and horse -trap-
pings, which were profusely decorated
with enamelled ornaments. In enamel-
ling on gold, the colours red and crimson
are chiefly used, and blue and ^en
are the favourite colours with silver.
This trade is now on the decline, as is
also that of manufacturing arms. Hy-
derabad was renowned for its sword-
blades and matchlock barrels, but there
are now only one or two families who
work in this line. Seal Engraving is
a business of great importance in the
East, where the Persians and the arti-
sans of Delhi are celebrated for their
skill in this craft. At Hyderabad
there are very skilful engravers who
work on cornelian, silver, and other
metals, generally in the Persian or
Arabic character. A small seal, with
the purchaser's name in Persian,
mounted on a handle of enamel-work,
is a good memento of Hyderabad. Lac-
quered work is admirably executed
here.
If the traveller has time he should
drive or ride down the Bellasis Eoad^
along the bank of the river, and
up by the entrenched camp to the
Bandar Road Avenue, which is one of
the most beautiful avenues in India.
The climate of Hyderabad is very
hot, dry, and unhealthy, but at night
in the summer there is a fairly cool
breeze off the river. The average rain-
fall is only 6 in., while that of Karachi
is 7 in., and the climate is damp.
The traveller may wish to visit tiie
famous haUle-Jields of Miani and Dabo^
on which, in 1843, was decided the &te
ef Sind. The three places, Hyderabad,
Miani, and Dabo, form a triangle, Miani
being 6 m. to the N.W. of Hyderabad
and Dabo 4^ m. to the S.E. of Miani,
and 5^ m. to the £. of Hyderabad.
The whole journey may be made in a
day, starting very early in the morning,
and using ndinff camels, for the ro^
is verjr bad to Miani ; and to Dabo
there is no road.
At Miani a monument marks the
scene of this great action, and on the
E. side of the pillar are the names of
the officers who fell, and other informa-
tion. The spot is enclosed in a well- :
kept garden.
[There is a railway from Hyderabad
to Shudipalli for TTmerkote, the chief
town of I%ur and Parkar, in which
district there is excellent snipe, quail,
and wild fowl shooting, also gazelle
and antelope.] Returning to Eotri
Sta., the line continues S.W. to
768 m. Jungshahi sta. (R.)
The best plan for sightseers is to
take a carriage to the MakkaUi Hills,
and to arrange for camels thence to gv
the round of TaUa, the Tombs, KaJfn
Katy etc, and return by the carriige
to Jungshahi. (Charge for camels,
R.1.8 each per diem.) The sculpture
on many of the tombs is very elaborate,
and many of the mosques are veiy
beautiftd. There are several re^
houses (no provisions) in this district, '
and good small same shooting, also
Tpwra and stoamp deer,
[From here Tatta i^ (pop. 8000) can
best be visited — 13 m. S.E. by a good
road. The place is known locally as
Nagar Thato. Snipe and bustard
shooting is to be obtained in the neigh-
bourhood.
Tatta is situated 4 m. W. of the
Indus, on ground slightly raised on
the ruins of former houses. Fever is
very common, and a dreadful mortality
took place in 1839 in the British canton-
ment. According to Macmurdo, Tatta
was built in 1522, and destroyed by
one of Akbar's generals in 1591. Ham-
ilton, who visited it in 1699, calls it i
very larae and rich city, about 8 n.
long and 1} m. broad. He states that
80,000 persons had just before his visit
died of the plague, and that it was half
depopulated. Pottinger states that when
Nadir entered at the head of his army
in 1742 there were 40,000 weavers,
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ROUTE 14. TATTA
231
20,000 other artisans, and 60,000
lealers in various trades. These
aambers have now dwindled to ahout
300 weavers, 100 artisans, and 500
traders. In 1854 a municipality was
established. The present trade of Tatta
consists mostly of silk and cotton
manufactures. The Iwngis or scarfs
are much admired.
In 1758 a factory was established
here bj; the E. L Company and with-
drawn in 1775, re-established in 1799,
and again given up. There is a tomb on
the Makkalli Hills (pronounced Makli)
near Tatta, not far from the large tombs
of the old rulers of Sind, erected over
the remains of Edward Cooke, who was
probably connected with the factory.
Tl]« affectionate fidelity of the servant
who erected the tomb, but would not
parade his own name, is deserving of
lasting remembrance.
The most remarkable sights at Tatta
are the Grand Mosque ; the manufac-
tures of silk lungis and stamped
cottons ; the tombs at the Makkalli
Bill ; Pir Pattan ; and Kalyan Kot.
The Orand Mosque, near the centre
of the town, was begun by Shah Jehan
in 1647 A.D. and finished by Aurangzeb.
It has been a magnificent edifice, but
is now much decayed. The roof is
sormounted by 100 domes, each painted
in a different way. The inscriptions
curved round the great stone arch, and
tiiose upon the two stones bearing the
date of the edifice, are admirably exe-
eated in large letters. Not far from
this is the old house inhabited by Mr.
Crowe, the first British Resident in
Sind.
The Makkalli Hill Cemetery is
about IJ m. W. of the town. The
range runs from W. to N., being 8 m.
long and under 1 m. broad. The area
of tnis vast cemetery is said to be 6 sq.
m. and to contain 1,000,000 graves,
the custom of Mohammedans requiring
that all tombs shall be single, and that
none be re-opened to receive more than
one body. This place began to be used
(or interment about 1500 a.d. The
aommit of the rocky ridge looking
towards Tatta is crowned by an im-
mense *Jdgah, or place where public
prayers are recited on the two great
Mohammedan festivals called *Idy or
Easter. The building consists of a
long wall, with a low flight of steps
leading to the mihrab and the mimbar
(or pulpit). Tall slender minarets of
elegant form spring from either ex-
tremity. The date, 1683 A.D., is in-
scribed, in beautiful large Na>sCalik
characters.
Behind this building vaulted domes,
arches and towers, porticoes, gateways,
and vast colonnades rise in apparently
endless succession above snapeless
mounds of ruins. Many of the build-
ings must be the result of protracted
years of labour. In some the cupola is
surrounded by a ring of smaller domes,
with a single or double colonnade, en-
closing a ^lery and platform, broken
by pointed arches in each of the four
fronts. Others are girt by lofty stone
walls, forming square courtyards, with
entrance gates leading to the different
doorways. Some consist of heavy
marble canopies, on fantastic coliunns.
Many are built of coloured and glazed
tiles and bricks, the work probably of
Persian bricklayers, who are renowned
for their skill. So skilfully and care-
fully made are these bricks, that each
rings like metal, and breaks as clear
as glass. Nothing can be richer than
the appearance of the inscriptions on
the bricks, in large white letters, upon
a dark purple ground.
KaZyan Kot, "Fort Prosperous,** —
not as Sir A. Bumes and Lieut. Wood
write it, Kalan Kot, " Great Fort, " — is
called by the Mohammedans Tughlaka-
bad. It is a ruin, somewhat less than
2 m. S. of Tatta, and according to some
it was erected by Alexander the Great.
However that may be, its antiquity
cannot be doubted. The name is San-
scrit, and from its plan it may be fairly
inferred that it was built before the use
of cannon.]
787 m. Dabheji sta. is the place
from which Bambura may be visited ;
it is 6 m. distant.
[^ambnra is supposed by the natives
to be the site of tne most ancient sea-
port in Sind. It may have been the
ancient Debal, the first city captured by
Muhammad Easim, having its name
232
ROUTE 14. LAHORE TO KARACHI
from a temple in the fort of great
celebrity. It is unquestionably of
great antiquity, and the remains of
ramparts, bastions, towers, etc., prove
its former importance. Many coins
also have at dinerent times been found
among its ruins. The town of Gharo
is about 3 m. to the E.]
819 m. Karachi (Kurrachee) Can-
tonment (or Frere Street) sta.3^ —
The M'Leod or City sta. is 2 m. farther
on towards the harbour.
Karachi, lat. 24* 47', long. 66° 56' E.
pop. 104, 000, distance from London 6283
m., is the chief town in Sind. It is
situated at the N. extremity of the
delta of the Indus, and is the head-
quarters of the Commissioner, the
Judicial Commissioner, and Brigadier-
General. Karachi existed as a mere
fort from 1726 to 1842, when it
was yielded up by the Talpur Amirs
to the British Government. Then it
began to rise rapidly as a flourishing
sea -port with a trade whose annusil
value now exceeds £4,000,000. N. of
the sta. are the Napier Barracks, a fine
block of buildings extending over the
maidan for 1 m., with accommodation
for 1500 European troops. W. of the
Lines are the B. C. Church and General
Hospital. In front of this line, ^ m.
from the rly. sta., is the Frere Hall
(built in 1865 in honour of Sir Bartle
Frere). The building contains a large
ballroom, a public meeting-room, and
the Karachi General Library. In
front of the Hall is the bandstand,
where the European regimental band
plays on Saturday evenings between
6 and 8. Adjoining the Frere Hall
compound are the nandsome build-
ings and gardens belonging to the
members of the Sind Club. Passing
beyond it is the Masonic Hall, and
in front of it, on the road leading to
the sea, is the Gymkhana and Ladies'
Club, standing in a well-kept garden.
To the W. and in a line with the Gym-
khana is the compound of
Government House, built by Sir C.
Napier, bought from him by Govern-
ment, and now the residence of the
Commissioner in Sind. Behind it is
Trinity Church (the garrison church),
with its square campanile, 150 ft li
It was built at the instigation of;
Bartle Frere, and contains a fine stal
glass window put up in honour of
C. Napier and the victors of Mi«
Beyond, W., are the Artillery
house. Barracks, and Arsenal ; ai
few yds. farther is St. Andrew's Sool
Church.
Here is the heart of the busy Si
Bazaar, with its Post Office, i^''
Telegraph Office ; near this is the 8i|/^
Arts College, containing the Husei
the Bums Gardens, and the Yi< '
Market, — a very tine building
high clock tower. Near the market
the Eduljei Duishaw Dispensary,
building of graceful proportions. 1
W. of the market are the Oover: ^
Gardens, where the Native r^imentlK
band plays. The Zoological CoUef^:^
tion in the gardens is considered ^Ji^
best in India, and is well "worth £7
visit. The road S. from the gardep^^
by the banks of the Layari river, 1<
to the C. M. S. Mission Churdh
School. This is the commencem<
of the Native town. Past the M
Church, on the rt., are the Civil
pital, the Ctovemment High School,'
Native General Library, Small CanalP.
Court, and Max Deuso Hall. On th^
S. is the melancholy - looking JalL
flanked by its four Sind mud watch- '\
towers. Good carpets, etc., can be a
purchased here at very reasonable^
prices. Near at hand are the shops of
the far-famed Sind silversmiths.
From Government House the M'Leod
Road to the sea leads to a fine block
of buildings containing the quarters of °
the European and Persian Gulf Tele-
graph Staff, the General Post Office,
and the Municipal Offices. On the 1.
of the road is the Karachi City Bly.
Sta. The late rapid extension of rail-
wa]rs has made Karachi the gateway of
Central Asia, — a fact foretold more than
60 years ago by that far-seeing states-
man Sir C. Napier. Within easy walk
of the City sta. are the Court House,
containing the Judicial CommiaBioner,
District Judges, and Town Magistrate's
offices, the Bolton Market, the Cham-
ber of Commerce, the Custom House,
and the offices and godowns of the Euro-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Jahn.Bartiia'U>m«w& Co..K()iii?
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 14. KARACHI
233
pean merchants, Banks, and Steam-
ship Agencies.
Passing the Customs 2 m. along the
Nipier Mole isEiamari (4 m. from the
caatonment. Carriages, the hest in
ladia, fare 2 Rs. Travellers should
be careful to take first-class carriages),
a busy shipping port, with its long
be of wharves, and connected with
tie cantonment and native town by
nil, tram, road, telefi^aph, and tele-
ihone. In the old days this was an
Mand. At Eiamari the Karachi
tlarbour commences. It is a first-
ilass harbour, capable of accommodat-
n^ the largest steamers, and owes its
jzistence to the strenuous exertions of
Sir Bartle Frere. It was designed by
lir. Walker, commenced in 1864, and
wmpleted in 1883. There is very good
lea-nshing to be had in the harbour,
ffld a good supply of boats. Karachi
8 famed for its nsh and oysters. Near
pe Napier Mole, on the backwater,
( the Sind Boat Club House. The
Menoes of the harbour consist, beside
he marine defences, of three large
OTts. At the Manora headland, the
iiitrance to the harbour on the W.,
he largest of the three forts is situated.
!^ear the seaport of the Punjab is a
i^tiionse showing a fixed light 120 ft.
ibove sea-level, visible 17 m. in clear
A-eather. On the meridian of Karachi
.here is no land between Manora and
ihe South Pole.
For steamship companies see Index,
rhe most economical route for pas-
lengers and goods to Quetta, Mooltan,
[jahore, and the North- West Provinces
>f India is vid Karachi.
Water Supply. — The water in
Karachi is perfectly pure, being col-
ected in underground reservoirs, in
he rising ground 16 m. N.E. of
Karachi, and conveyed in pipes. The
Municipal Secretary would afford every
nformation and permission to see the
^ells and Beservoirs.
Very little rain falls at Karachi, the
iverage for the year being about 7 in.
The showery months are July and
August, and there are one or two
tieavy showers about Christmas. The
end of Maj and part of June and first
fortnight m October are hot ; Nov.,
Dec, Jan., and Feb. and March delight-
fully cold and dry ; remaining months
damp with constant cool sea breeze.
Clifton, 3 m. S. of the cantonment,
a favourite afternoon ride and drive,
stands on the sea, and is approached by
a good road. There is a fine sandy
beach here extending S.E. for miles —
on this beach thousands of turtles in
August, Sept., and Oct. come up at
night to lay their eggs ; and the turtle-
turning picnic parties arranged for
moonlight nights are among the stand-
ing amusements of the place. During
the cold weather the tanks and jeels
about Karachi swarm with small game
birds, while in the Beluch Mountains,
25 m. W. of Manora, good ibex shoot-
ing is obtainable. In the Hub river, i^
the boundary between India and Belu-
chistan (20 m. from Karachi) good
mahsir fishing can be had.
[Magar Pir, 7 m. N. of Karachi, is
well worth a visit. For a detailed
account of this curious place see Dry
Leaves from YouTig Egypt, ^ p. 218, and
Burton's Sind, voL i. p. 48. As the
place can be comfortably seen in an
afternoon from Karachi, there is no
necessity to stop there, the dhartmala,
or rest-house, not being comfortable for
Europeans to stay at. The road out
in parts being very sandy, an extra
horse is attached to the carriage ; the
charge for the trip being generally
12 rs.
From the roots of a clump of date
trees gushes out a stream of hot water,
the temperature of which is 183'.
On the W. side of the valley is a
temple surrounded by a thick grove,
and close to a swamp caused by the
superfluous waters of the spring.
There is also a tank surroundea by a
5 ft. mud wall, and containing some 80
or 90 alligators, which, as they attract
a considerable number of visitors, the
Mohammedans in charge of the Pirs
Tomb regard as sacred, for a brisk and
remunerative business is done by these
custodians in killing goats for visitors
1 See the Library in th^ Frere .Hall.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
234
ROUTE 15. EUK JUNCTION TO QUETTA, ETC.
India
to see the alligators fed. It is a
curious fact that the so-called alligators
are really crocodiles, and are a different
species from the long-snouted Ohamal
of the Indus.]
ROUTE 15
RuK Junction to Shikarpur,
Jaoobabad, Quetta, and Chaman.
Bnk June. sta. (R.), D.B., is 15 m.
on the Karachi side of Sukkur (see
p. 226). Proceeding by the Sind-
Pishin Rly. we reach
11m. Shikarpur sta. D.B., i/i a muni-
cipal town and headquarters of a district
of the same name. The pop. 43,000^ of
whom 1 6, 000 are Mohammedans. The
great trade road to Baluchistan, Kanda-
har, and Central Asia, and the Bolan
Pass, for which Shikarpur has been the
depot, passes through it. The railway
encourages direct trading, and is likely
to injure the commerce of the place.
The town is situated in a tract of low-
lyinc country, annually flooded by
canals from the Indus, and only 190
ft. above sea-level.
The Chhoti Begwri, a branch of the
Sind Canal, flows to the S. of the
town, and another branch, the Baiswah,
passes on the N. The soil in the
▼ioinity is very rich, and produces
heavy crops of grain and fruit, especially
dates, mangoes, oranges, and mulberries,
all of which are excellent
Up to 1865 Shikarpur was not a clean
town, but on the Municipal Act being
brought into force in that year, great
sanitary improvements were effected.
The bazaar in Shikarpur is coverod
in on account of the heat in summer,
Shikarpur and Jacobabad and Sibi
being about the hottest places io
India. The trains from Jacobabad
to Sibi only go at night on account ol
the heat in the desert that the rail-
way crosses. The old bazaar has bees
lengthened, and the prolongation of it,
called the Stevxirt Qanj Market^ after
a popular district officer, is well boilt
and commodious : it is the best bazaar
in Sind. To the E. of the town are 3
large tanks, called Sarwar Khan's tank,
Gillespie, and Hazari tanks. There »
abundance of water for irrigation and
other purposes, but the climate is very
hot and dry, and the rainfall for twel?e
years averaged only 5.15 in.
In the Jail, postms (pronounced
poshteens), or sheepskin coats, bas-
kets, reed chairs covered with leather,
carpets, tents, shoes, etc., are made bjr
the prisoners.
There is a legend which ascribes the |
foundation of Shikarpur to the Dand
Putras. The history of the place up
to 1824 is, however, uncertain, bat in |
that year it came into the peaceable
possession of the Amirs of Sind. Id
1848, with the rest of the country, it
fell to the British,
36 m. Jacobabad sta., D.B» This was
the chief military frontier station before
Quetta was occupied. It is a muni-
cipal town, and capital of the frontier
district, which contains an area of 475
sq. m. The station itself, iDduding
tne military camp, has 11,000 inhabit-
ants, of whom 7000 belong to the 1
town. The heat in summer is very
great, and grass is laid upon the roads
to keep the dust down.
The town was planned and laid oat
on the site of the village of Khangarb
by General John Jacob, the distis- |
guished frontier officer and commander
of the Sind horse, said by Outram to
be, after Lord Napier of Magdals,
the best soldier in India. He w^M t
Residency of considerable size. Wheo
General Jaeob first arrived in Ui
Sind, the whole country aboat Kl
Digitized by VjOOQIC
its
heo I
ROUTE 15. siBi, Era
235
^h was in a state of anarchy, bodies
« mounted robbers — Bugtis, Dumkis,
Burdis, or Maris, — swept the plains
md robbed and murdered those they
(Dcountered. Ehangarh itself oifered
I stout resistance to the 5th Bombay
' ff.I., but General Jacob's rule put an
end to all these troubles, and to him
i more than to any other officer the peace
of Upper Sind was due. Of late years
Jacobabad has decreased in population
and importance. It is garrisoned by a
Native cavalry regiment.
121 m. mthri sta.
133 m. Sibi iunc sta. (R.), D.B.
This place is in the valley of the river
Nsri, in the territory of the Ehan of
Ehelat. It is just at the entrance of
the Bolan Pass. Sibi was occupied by
the British in the name of Shan Sujah
from 1839-42. The old fort was used
as a commissariat depot. The place
was ceded to the British by the Treaty
of Gnndamuk in 1879.
From Sibi to Bostan junc, there are
two lines — the Northern or Sind-Pishin
Railway b^ Eamai, which has maxi-
mum gradients of 1 in 45 and traverses
a country inhabited by Pathans. The
Southern line is carried through the
Bolan PasSf and is called the Quetta
Loop Line. Its steepest gradients are 1
in 25. The inhabitants are all Baluchis.
The Southern Bailway is in many places
a mere surface line, and is injured by
erery heavy flood of the Bolan river.
Both roads are full of interest There
are spots on the Hamai line where the
scenery is unsurpassed in the whole
world for its weird grandeur. The
traveller must at any sacrifice of time
arrange to see these routes by day-
light.
A word of warning is necessary to a
visitor starting on this journey. In
the winter cold of from 22" to 23**
F. below zero is not at all un-
common on the higher parts of the
line, whilst in summer 128** inside
the house is not an unfrequent tem-
perature at Nari. It is scarcely neces-
sary to say that the consequences
of insufficient clothing may he very
serious to travellers or their servants
who make this trip as part of a cold
weather tour.
The Hamai Rovie, — Leaving Sibi
the first 7 m. are in open country.
At 140 m. (from Ruk) Nari, the
road enters the hills and traverses most
difficult passes, constantly crossing and
re-crossing the Nari river and its tribu-
taries, 'file difficulties of construction
on this part of the line were very great.
The scenery will reward sustained at-
tention to
162 m. Koohali sta.
191 m. Harnai sta. D.B. A good
road diverges here N.E. to the military
cantonment of LoraZai on the frontier
road that runs from Dera Ghazi Ehan
£. on the river Indus to Pishin in the
W.
197 m. Nasak Frontier sta.
208 m. Shahrig sta., (R.) where a
halt is made for refreshments. ^
225 m. Dirgi sta. Thence to
280 m. Mangi sta., D.B.- [This is
the station for Ziarat (22 m.)« the hot
weather resort for residents of Belu-
chistan. Ziarat is a valley 8000 ft.
above the sea, with the hills clothed in
juniper forests.] The scenery is very fine.
In this length the ChappaRift is passed.
Here a huge mountain has the appear-
ance of having been cracked from top
to bottom through the solid mass of
limestone. The rift itself is passed at
nearly 300 ft above the bed of the
stream, and the traveller at several
places seems suspended in the air. In
approaching and leaving the rift the
train constontly runs in and out of
tunUels and across high bridges. The
mountainous country continues to
252 m. Fullers Camp sta. From
there to
268 m. Bostan junc sta. (for Quetta)
(R. ) it is comparatively open.
Leavinff Quetta behind for the time,
the traveller may continue his journey
to the Afghan frontier on the way to
Kandahar.
About 14 m. beyond Bostan junc.
the Lora River is passed, the first stream
the traveller will have seen on the
Central Asian watershed, all the rivers
Digitized by VjOOQIC
236
ROUTE 16. RtTK JUNCTION TO QUETTA, ETC.
India
he has hitherto crossed draining into
the Arabian Sea.
298 m. Gulistan sta. In the infancy
of these lines a short surface railway
was laid from here towards the Gwaja
Pass, an alternative route to Kandahar.
It is not now used, the main line
turning due N. to
306 m. EiUa Abdnlla (R.)
316 m. Shela Bagh is at the foot of
the KqjaJc Pass, and near the S.E. end
of the tunnel passing under the Kwaja
Amran Mountains. This tunnel is 2|
descent into the Eadanai Valley, which
lies far below Chaman, and the distance
to Kandahar will be about 85 m.
The traveller must now retrace his
steps to Bostanjunc, and is advised
to return to Sind by the Quetta Loop
Line, which traverses the Bolan Pass.
The railway line from Bostan to the
Bolan traverses the Quetta Valley,
which is fertile and populous. It has
been administered by British officers
since 1877. Passing 7 m. Knchlak,
and 13 m. Beleli we reach
/Hcul Khan
*" QUETTA.
English Miles
*'"'"'^*v!SL/a BJtgh
S^^amu, Khan
^-^/■^t^— ^ o 5 ip ^ 3P
SEa.
^zy
Sanitta
'Spezandai ^ ^^^*V^
1 /«T^''«I:>r^
I.' §* jYafuKarez^
^
%£jf^_J^
P\ M i&stanJuncV
'"'^^^^^9^^" S E W E S r>^^Ml ^^
<l ^ ^r\ u, ./
^-^ . \.a^^^3r
/^^l:{>:^==^^^^'''
C ^^
r^^A
/ \ ( Sar.i<ib\%
^S^ jT'
3-' i I ii
^^^X ^
J'^z^ ^
" \) J\ ^p^*^"^\.
■^KStStt^/'-fco/on
V ^^intanqt Thai
j \ yK6tal Darwazpi
L V« raa/i</o/
--— ' — I'^'S/ ^y^^^
Afaofl^V
^^^^^O WchaKjlfiZi^j-^
hb'tQUlft^K^
/ 1 ffyLvLStwiz
BibiNanAj\^
^.^MaterKachh
/^Ss^-o^s.
■^af"''
/y AkVo ^
/J KiiitSipMuat
^qf ^(/
\J3tjSibi June.
1 „;s
J^Kunni^^
■^pL....
m. long. Passing through it we reach
the present ending of the line at
335 m. Chaman sta., where there is
a small militanr outpost.
The Kojak Pass is surmounted by a
fine military road, and those who have
the opportunity should ascend it (7500
ft) to see the magnificent view, W. over
the Kadomi Plain, and N. beyond Kan-
dahar, which is hidden by intervening
hills.
When the line is continued to Kanda-
har it will necessarily make a long bend
to the N. to obtain length for the
JValMer &-Bcut*Uscj
21m. Quetta sta. aOc(R.),D.B. Itisso
called by the Afghans, but is designated
by the Brahuis, the people of the country,
Shot, It is situated at the N. end of
the Shal Valley, and is very conveni-
ently placed as regards Khelat, from
which it is distant 103 m. N. The
town is surrounded by a mud wall, and
has two gates, one to the E. and another
to the S., which latter is called the
Shikarpuri Gate. N.E. stands the Mifii
or Fort, a former residence of the Khan
of Khelat, from which there is a very
extensive view of the neighbouring
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 16. BAH ARAN PORE TO MOGUL SARAI
villey. It is now used as an arsenal
for the force. Beleli is another ai*ti-
fidal mound in the lines of that name.
Qietta is surrounded by strongly-forti-
fied lines, and commanding, as it does
lith its strongly-fortified outpost of
Bdeli, both the Kqjctk and Bolan Passes,
it forms one of the most important
frontier posts of our Indian Empire.
It has rapidly increased and prospered
dnce the British occupation, and now
contains about 12,000 to 16,000 in-
habitants, of whom many are Afi^hans.
In summer the climate is considered
very pleasant, the heat beins tempered
by cool breezes from the lofty hills
which surround the valley, but in
winter the cold is very severe. On the
whole, the station is now regarded as
one of the best in our Indian Empire.
Nomerous gardens and orchards abound
in the suburbs, and the water-supply
is good.
Quetta was occupied by British
troops in the first expedition to Kabul,
&nd Captain Bean was appointed the first
Political Agent Since 1876 a British
political officer has again resided at
Quetta under the official designation
oif the Governor-General's Agent for
British Baluchistan, a district ceded to
us by the Treaty of Gundamuk. Dur-
ing the Afghan campaigns of 1878-
1880, Quetta formed the base of opera-
tions for the Bombay column. It is
now the headquarters of a strong
brigade, and a flourishing native town
hi8 sprung up close to the cantonments.
47 m. Kotal Darwaia sta. Lookiug
back on the ascent to this place there
isa beautiful view of the Quetta Valley.
From this commences the Bolan Pass.
The ruling gradient of the railway is 1
in 40, but in places it is as steep as 1
in 25. The passage of this defile occu-
pies an important place in the history
of all our Afghan campaigns.
The Bolan River ^ a torrent rising at
Sir-i-Bolan, flows through the whole
length of the pass, and like all mount-
ain streams, is subject to sudden floods ;
in one of which, in 1841, a British de-
tachment was lost with its baggage.
When the stream was not swollen,
however, artillery was conveyed through
without any serious difficulty. In 1839
a Bengal column, with its artillery,
consisting of 8-in. mortavs, 24-pounder
howitzers, and 18-pounder guns, went
through the Bolan in six days. The
narrowest parts of the pass are just
above Khundilani, and Deyond Sir-i-
Bolan. At the Khundilani Gorge the
cliflfs of conglomerate on either side
rise to a height of 800 ft, and when
the stream is in flood it completely fills
the gorge. At Sir-i-Bolan the rocks
are of Imiestone, and the passage is so
narrow that only three or four men can
ride abreast. The temperature in the
pass during summer and autumn is very
high ; water is abundant and good, but
firewood is scarcely procurable. The
pass was infested by plundering Balu-
chis and Brahms, who lived by robbing
caravans, and deterred peaceably dis-
posed tribes from settling in the valleys ;
out since the British occupation these
depredations have been completely sup-
pressed. Trade is prospering in the
pass, and cultivation, so far as climate
and soil permit, is progressing. From
Bibi Nani a mountain road leads to
Klielat, distant 110 m., vid Barade,
Rudbar, Narmah, Takhi, and Kishan.
The bottom of the pass is reached at
Riudli, and there are no special obstacles
on the way into Sibi.
ROUTE 16
Saharanpore, by Oudh and Rohil-
CFND Railway, to Hardwar,
Bareilly, Ltjcknow, Fyzabap,
Benares, and Mogul Sarai.
Saharanpore sta^ is between Delhi
and Umballa (see p. 194).
22 m. Boorkeesta. (Rurki), D.B., a
modem manufacturing town and mili-
tary station, stands on a ridge overlook-
ing the bed of the Solani river. Up to
1845 it was merely a mud-built village,
it is now a flourishing town of 16,000
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ROUTE 16. SAHARANPORE TO MOGUL SARAI
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inhabitants, with broad metalled road-
ways meeting at right angles, and lined
with excellent shops. The Ganges
Ccmal passes to the £. of the town
between raised embankments. It is
the headquarters of the Oanges Canal
workshops andiron foundry, established
in 1845-1852.
The Thomason Civil Engineering
College, was founded in 1847. The
students are partly English youths born
in the country, partly Eurasians and
natives ; with special classes for soldiers
picked for their ability. There are a
Church, Dispensary, Police Station,
Botanical Gardens, Post Office, and a
Mission School of the S. P. G. There
is also an excellent Meteorological
Observatory.
33 m. Lhaksar June. sta. [A branch
line from here runs N. 16 m. to Hard-
war, ffiving access to Dehra Don and
the hill-stations of Mussoorie, Landour,
and Chakrata (see Rte. 17).]
73 m. Nagixia sta. (R.)
59 m. Najibabad. [Branch line to
Kotdwara 15 m., whence a road 18 m.
to the military hill station of Loms-
dovmey which is garrisoned by two
native regiments.]
120 m. Moradabadsta. ^Oc D.B., lies
at the S.E. of the city, i m. S. of
the junction with the Meerut road.
Moradabad (pop. 73,400) is on the
right bank of the Ramganga river.
Beyond the jail, to N. W. of town, are
the Cantonments and civil station.
It is noted for carved wood work.
SL PauVs Church is W. of the D.B.
About^ m. N. of therailway sta. is the
American Churchy built by their Metho-
dist Mission in 1874. It is used as a
school, except during hours of service.
The Mission nas also a vernacular school
in the city. The office of the Tahsildar
on the opposite side of the road, is a
handsome white building. 1 m.
from this church is the Zil'a School,
on the banks of the Ramganga,
^hich is here crossed by a bridge of
ooats. To the W. of the school is the
Badshai Musjid. The date is in the
reign of Shah Jehan, 1628-58 A.D.
The principal mosque, to the S. of the
school, is a plain large building, with
■^n inscription in the central alcove
inside in Persian. The date corre-
sponds to 1636 A.o. N. of the school
are the ruins of Rustam Khan's fort,
the walls of which are of burnt brick,
and are from 4 to 6 ft. thick ; it is
quite close to the Ramganga. A la^rg*
well here is called the Mint Well, be-
cause it supplied water to the Mint in
which Rustam Ehan coined his money.
What occurred at Moradabad during
the Mutiny has been told by Eaye in
his Sepoy War, vol. iii. p. 252. The
29th B.N. I., t>osted at this station,
were for some time kept steady by Mr.
Cracroft Wilson, the Judge, but the
gunners of the N. Artillery showed
from the first unmistakable signs of an
inclination to revolt On the 18th of
May a regiment from Meerut, which had
mutinied, came down upon Moradabad,
and arrived at the Gangan Brid£;e.
They had with them a considerable
treasure, which they had carried off
from Zafamagar. Mr. Wilson moved
against them with a detachment of
the 29th, under two excellent officer^
Captain Faddy and Lieut. Clifford, and
a body of Irreg. Horse. He surprised
the 20th asleep, and eight or ten of them
were seized, one shot dead by a trooper^ :
and the treasure captured. Next dayj
the mutineers of the 20th entered]
Moradabad, when one was shot dead!
by a Sikh Sepjoy of the 29th, and four!
were made prisoners. The slain mani
was a relative of one of the 29th, who
prevailed on a number of his comrades
to go to the jail and get his body, and
also to rescue the military prisoners.
The guard at the jail fraternised with |
these men, and all the prisoners in the ■
jail were released, but the Adjutant of
the 29th and Wilson with a few Sepoys '
and a few Irregulars captured 150 of |
the prisoners, and lodged them again |
in the jaiL In this manner Wilson eon«
tinned to make use of the 29th, though
in a dangerous mood, and he even
disarmed two companies of Sappers who
marched in from Koorkee and had mat
inied. But when the news of the mutiny
at Bareilly arrived it became impossible
to restrain the Sepoys any longer, and
Wilson had to make over the trwisun*
to them, and escape with the other
civilians and their wives to Meemt
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ROUTE 16. SAHARAIJPORE TO MOGUL SARAI
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Before visiting the Residency, the
traveller should on no account fail to
stop at the Museum (called in verna-
cular Ajaib Ghar, '^ curiosity house"),
in order to study the Model of the
Besidency made by Chaplain Moore.
By so doing he will start with a far
better ffrasp of the relative positions of
the buudings and of the scenes of the
memorable siege than he would other-
wise have.^ It represents the Residency
before the clearances were made. It
shows the great disadvantages under
which the besieged fought, as the
enemy were close to them all round,
and under cover. But this model is
not the only attraction to the Museum ;
it also contains an extremely interest-
ing collection of Buddhist sculptures
and fragments of architecture from
Muttra and other places which have
been brought together here. Amongst
them is one fragment, unearthed in 1891
by Dr. A. Fiihrer, which possesses very
considerable archaeological interest. It
is a torana bearing a relief representing
a stupa worshipped by Centaurs and
Harpies, or, as the Hindus would say,
Einnaras, and Garudas or Suparnas.
Centaurs have been found on the
Buddhist sculptures at Bharhut and
Gaya, while Muttra has furnished the
Silenus groups and Hercules strangling
the Nemean lion. This find is a
further addition to the monuments
which prove the influence of Hellen-
istic art among the Hindus of the last
centuries preceding our era.
The Besidency.— This term is now
applied to the cluster of buildings
which became famous during the
Mutiny, and not only to the Residency
building itself. Their total length
from N.W. to S.E. was 2150 ft, and
from E. to W., that is, from the Baillie
Guard to Gubbins's Battery, 1200 ft.
The first thing the traveller will see on
his visit to the Residency is an Obelisk ^
erected by Lord Northbrook, in front
of the Baillie Guard, with an inscrip-
tion in memory of the native officers
and Sepoys who died near this spot
nobly performing their duty.
On the evening of the 17 th of May
1 See lAicknow and Oude in the MiUinVt by
Lieut-General M'Leod Innes, R.B., V.C.
a part of the 32d Foot, with guns, had
been brought into the Residency from
the cantonments (see Kaye, vol. iii. p.
437), and with them came great numbers
of Englishwomen and children. The
Treasury contained over 60 kkhs
of rupees. A guard of Sepoys had been
in charge, but a European guard was
now substituted. The defences of the
Residency and its buildings, beginning
from the Baillie Guard on the E. and
proceeding to the N., were, 1st,
Alexander's Battery ; 2d, Water Gate
Battery ; 3d, Redan Battery ; 4th, a
falisade ; and then turning S., the
nnis Garrison, the Bhusa Gnard,
Onimaney's Battery, the Gubbins's
Garrison, and Gubbins's Battery, the
Sikh Square ; and turning to the E. , the
Cawnpore Battery, Thomas's Battery,
Anderson's Garrison, Post Office Garri-
son, Judicial Garrison, Sago's Guard,
and Financial Ganison. The gateway
of the Baillie Guard was an ordkarf
gateway, commanded by Lieut. AitkeE
On entering through it. Dr. Fayri^
house will be seen to the left, 50 ft.
back. In a room in this house Sir
Henry Lawrence died, and a witten
notice calls attention to the fact At
100 ft. from the Baillie Guard is a
small pillar inscribed "Financial Post,"
and this is the first of a series of sndi
pillars which surround the Residency,
and mark the spots where the different
detachments of the garrison were posted.
The ground to the W. of this pillar
rises m mounds, and a little way to
the S.E. of this pillar is another with
" Sago's Post " ; then comes " Ger-
mon's Post." At the top of the slope,
and to the rear of Germon's, was
"Residency Post." To the 5. is
'*Post Office Post," and in line with
Germon's is "Anderson's Garrison."
To the W. of Anderson's, in the same
line, is the Cawnpore Battery pillar.
This was the most dangerous post of
all. The mutineers had rifles fixed in
rests in the house opposite, and swept
the road that led through the Residency
enclosure here. To show one's self in
that road was certain death. At 50 ft to
the N. W. is Duprat's pillar. Duprat^
a gallant Frenchman, who had served
in the French army. On W. side of
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ROUTE 16. LUCKNOW
241
it was the " Martini^re Post." The boyg
of the Martinifere School were employed
iiiinany ways, but took no part in the
actual lighting. Johannes's house was
30 yds. to the S. outside the defences.
In the extreme W. is a pillar marking
Gubbins's house, to the W. of which
las the Sikh square. To the E.
is Ommaney's house, and E. of it
Begam Kothi, a large building in
vhich the ladies were quartered, and
where they were comparatively safe.
A.t the extreme N. is a mandir or
temple. Beyond Begam Kothi to the
N. W. is the Residency, the finest build-
ing in Lucknow, with a subterraneous
apartment, in which the women of the
32d were located. Close to this is an
artificial mound 80 ft. high, which now
has a handsome white marble Cross,
20 ft high at the summit. This is the
Lawrence Memorial, and on it is in-
scribed—
In memory of
MAJOR-GEN. SIR HENRY LAWRENCE,
KO.B.,
And the brave men who fell
In defence of the Residency.
1867.
The traveller should go round the
entrenchments of the Residency, and
will do well to ascend the tower, which
is propped up, and 56 ft. high. There
is a fine view from the top. Below it
is spread out the Cemetery, the most
interesting spot in Lucknow, where
2000 heroic men and women lie. It is
shaded with tall trees, festooned with
creepers, and laid out with flowers and
walks. The monuments are numerous
and interesting. A simple tomb marks
the spot where Henry Lawrence lies
buried, and on it is inscribed the touch-
ing epitaph, dictated by himself—
Here lies
HENRY LAWRENCE,
Who tried to do his duty.
Hay the Lord have mercy on his soul 1
Bom 28th of June 1806.
Died 4th of July 1857.
Here follows a very brief account of
what took place before the attack on
the Residency and during its siege : —
The first startling event that occurred
was the mutiny of the 7th Oudh Irreg.
Infantry, 3rd May 1857, at Musa Bagh,
[India]
a palace of one of the ex-king*s wives,
situated at 4J m. from the Resi-
dency. Major Gall, commanding the
4th Irreg. Cavalry, on being informed
of the imminent danger of the Euro-
pean officers, galloped up to the vicinity
with his troopers. Soon after Sir H.
Lawrence arrived with a mixed force
of Europeans and natives. The mu-
tineers then broke and fled, but some
were made prisoners, and others gave
up their arms. Sir H. Lawrence, a
few days afterwards, held a darbar in
the Cantonment Residency ; the troops
were drawn up, and two native officers,
who had given information of the
intended outbreak, were promoted.
Sir H. Lawrence harangued the troops
and the city was tranquil for some
weeks afterwards. On the 23d of
May, two detachments of cavalry were
sent to Cawnpore, to clear the road
between it and Agra. Near Mainpuri
the troopers mutmied, and killed one
or more of their officers, the rest escaping
by flight.
On the 30th May the Mutiny began
in the cantonments, and quickly became
general. Brigadier Handscombe was
shot dead, as was Lieut. Grant, of the
71st. The mutineers attacked Sir Henry
and his staff at the artillery grouna,
but were driven off with some rounds of
grape, which killed many of them. On
the 31st of May a Mr. Mendes was mur-
dered in his own house, in the city.
Martial law was now proclaimed ;
but Sir Henry was of opinion that the
Residency would stand only a fort-
night's siege. Owing to Sir Henry's
foresight, and by his orders, supplies of
wheat and all sorts of provisions were
brought into the Residency and Machchi
Bhawan, which had belonged to Nawab
*Ali Ehan, and was bought by Sir
Henry for 50,000 rs. It was sur-
rounded by high walls and towers.
Towards the N. it commanded the
Iron and Stone Bridges. The place,
however, proved of little service. The
cholera soon broke out in it, and there
were not sufficient men to hold both it
and the Residency. On the 1st of July,
the garrison having been withdrawn,
the Machchi Bhawan was blown up.
On the 11th of Junei^ie cavalry of the
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242
ROUTE 16. SAHABANPORB TO HOGUL SARAI
India
Military Police mutinied, and the
infantry followed their example ; but
one Subahdar, one Jam'adar, six Ha-
waldars, and 26 Sepoys remained faith-
ful, and continued to guard the jail.
Meantime, very large bodies of mutin-
eers were advancing on Lucknow, and
on the 30th of June Sir Henry, with a
small mixed force, marched out to dis-
perse them. He was defeated, losing
some guns and 119 Endish soldiers.
The rebels now pressed the siege of the
Residency with vigour. On the 2d of
July Sir Henry was wounded while
resting on his couch in his room by a
shell ; and after he had made over the
office of Chief Commissioner to Major
Banks, and conferred the chief militaiy
commaud on Colonel Inglis, he passed
away on the morning of the 4th July.
The Coolies who had been building the
works of defence all fled, and with
them went most of the domestic
servants. The strongest post that the
besieged had was the Kedan Battery, at
the N.E. angle, built and fortified by
Captain Fulton, of the Engineers.
It formed rather more than three-
fourths of a circle, and was elevated
considerably above the street below.
It was armed with two eighteen-pounders
and one nine-pounder, which could play
on the whole river's side and the
buildings on the opposite bank. Along
the Redan, as far as the hospital, was
a wall of fascines and earthwork, with
loopholes formed by sandbags, through
which the besie^ea fired with certain
effect ; and outside the Residency and
the hospital, and as far as the Baillie
Guard, was a clear space, 1000 yds.
long and 400 wide, which, being ex-
ceedingly low, formed a glacis for the
entrenchments above.
The Residency, with its lofty rooms,
fine verandahs, and large porticoes, its
range of subterraneous apartments, its
ground floor and two upper stories,
afforded accommodation to nearly 1000
persons — men, women, and children.
The hospital, formerly the banq^ueting
hall, had only two stories. The front
rooms were given to officers, the back
part was made a dispensary, and the
other rooms allotted to soldiers. A
battery of three guns was placed be-
tween the Water Gate and the hospital
The right wing of the hospital was
used for making fuses and cartridges,
and in front of it was a battery of three
mortars. The Baillie Guard was a
continuation of the hospital, but on
much lower ground. A part of it was
used as a store-room, part as the
treasury, part as an office, and the rest
as barracks for the Sepoys, who gir-
risoned it under Lieut. Aitken. Vr.
Fayrer's house, like the Baillie Guard,
faced the E. It was commanded by
Captain Weston and Dr. Fayrer. The
Post Office was a very important
position, commanding the jail and
mosque to the right, and the Clock
Tower and offices of the Tara Kothi to
the left, all being outside the entrench-
ment. It was made a barrack-room for
the soldiers, and was armed with three
guns. The Financial Office outpost
was commanded by Captain Sanders ot
the 13th. It was a large two-storied
house, and well barricadea. The Begam
Kothi was nearly in the centre of all
the defences. A double range of out-
offices formed a square within a square,
one side of which was an Imambaiah,
afterwards convei*ted into an officers'
hospital.
On the 2d of July, the day of ^
Henry's being wounded, the rebels
attacked the Baillie Guard Gate. The
deaths now averaged from 15 to 20
daily. Many were killed by an African,
who fired from Johannes's house, outside
the entrenchment, without ever miss-
ing. On the 8th, Captain Mansfield
and three other ofiScers, and Maycock,
a civilian, sallied out, spiked a ^n,
and killed about 40 of the rebels with-
out losing a man, though three were
wounded. On the 9th another sortie
was made, when a private named
O'Keene spiked a gun. On the 10th,
the ammunition of the rebels* cannon
falling short, they began to fire pieces
of wood, copper coin, iron, and even
bullock's horns. On the 14th the
enemy made a general attack. On the
16th the rebels made a night attack on
Gubbins's Battery, but were beaten
back. On the 20th of July they ex-
ploded a mine near the Redan. They
attempted to storm the Baillie Guard,
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BOUTB 16. LUOKNOW
243
aid made their assault from eyeiy point,
paaring in volleys of musketry, and
sflQding shell after shell into the en-
trenchments. As they approached
they were mowed down in scores by
giape, and their leaders were picked
of by the English riflemen. As the
fire of the enemy became more and
nore intense, even the wounded and sick
Inglish rose from their couches, seized
nuskets and fired as long as their
strength allowed. The mine the rebels
fired near the Redan did no harm to that
battery, but they, supposing a breach
to have been made, rushed up the
glacis at the double, with fixed bayon-
ets. Hundreds were shot down; but
their leader, waving his sword, on
which he placed his cap, shouted to
them to come on. Again they ad-
vanced, but the grape made huge ^aps
in their ranks, and a musket ball killed
thear leader. They then retreated,
leaying heaps of slain and wounded.
At this time a furious attack was made
<m Innes's outpost, where Lieut. Lough-
nan, of the 13th N.I., with 24 English
soliUers, 12 civilians, and 26 Sepoys,
beat back a whole host of rebels, who
at last slowly retreated, carrying off
100 of their wounded comrades. At
the Financial and Sago's Posts the
columnof rebels with the green standard
was after some hours* nard fighting
beaten off, with the loss of all their
commanders and about 60 men. The
fight ended at 4 p.m.
Though beaten at all points, on the
20th the enemy maintamed a farious
cannonade, and planted new batteries.
Brigadier Inglis assumed command on
the 2l8t. Owing to the fire of the
enemy, the windows had to be barri-
caded, and even then men were shot in
their beds. One great torment was
the flies, which swarmed in incredible
numbers. The ^und was black with
them. The besie^d could not sleep,
they could scarcely eat on account of
them. On the 25th a letter was re-
ceived from the Quartermaster-General
of Havelock's force, tilling the besieged
ta be of good cheer, for a relieving force
was coming in large numbers. But
days passed and the rebels were busy
with their mines, and but for the
countermining by Captain Fulton of
the Engineers, the
fallen.
the Engineers, the place must have
On the 10th of August there was
another general attack, but the enemy
showed little courage, and they were
easily beaten off. On the same day a
mine was exploded at Sago*s garrison,
and blew down some out-houses ; two
English soldiers were blown into the
air, but were not killed. Another
mine between the Brigade Mess and the
Cawnpore Battery blew down a stock-
ade, and the enemy attempted to enter,
but were repulsed. The 8-in. howitzer
which the rebels took at Chinhat
played on Innes's post with fatal effect,
bringing down beam after beam, and
making many breaches. On the 11th
of August Major Anderson, the chief
en^neer, died. On the 14th Captain
Fulton exploded a mine under a house
near Sago's garrison, which was blown
up, and in it were buried from 40 to 60
of the enemy. On the 18th the
Second Sikh Square, garrisoned by 15
Christian drummers and musicians,
and 15 Sikhs, was blown up by the
rebels, and buried 7 Christians and
2 Sikhs under its ruins. A large
breach was made, and the enemy tried
to enter, but their leader was killed
and they retired. Captain Fulton
with a number of volunteers then
sallied, destroyed a number of houses,
and blew up the shaft of another mine
begun by tne rebels.
On the 20th the house called Johan-
nes's was blown up by Captain Fulton,
killing 60 to 80 of the rebels. Captain
Fulton then headed a sally, and after
driving out the insurgents from several
buildings, blew them up. Lieut.
Macabe headed another party and
spiked two guns. Previous to this
Lieut. Macabe of the 32d had attacked
Johannes's house, and bayoneted a
number of the enemy, who were found
asleep, and amount them the African,
who had picked off dozens of the English
during the first days of the siege, and
had been christened by the soldiers
"Bob the Nailer." At this time a
sergeant of the Bhusa guard named
Jones, and 10 others, mostly native
Christians, deserted^but were killed
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ROUTE 16. 8AHARANP0RE TO MOGUL SARAI
India
by the insnreents. On the 29th of
August Angad the spy brought a letter
from Cftwnpore saying that the relief
would take place in three weeks. On the
5th of September the rebels made
another attack, having previously ex-
ploded three mines. 'Hiey advanced to
the Brigade Mess boldly, but were
driven back with the loss of 100 men.
They then attacked the Baillie Guard
and several other places, but were
similarly repulsed. On the 14th,
Captain Fulton was killed at Gubbins's
Battery, where a 9-pound shot took
his head completely off. On the 23d
of September a furious cannonade
raged outside the city from 10 A.M.
to 4 P.M., and confirmed the news re-
ceived the day before that Outram
and Havelock were coming to relieve
the besieged. On the 25th smoke and
the crack of musketry showed that
street-fighting was going on. The fire
advanced steadily and gradually to-
wards the entrenchments, which were
finally reached on the evening of that
day.
This relief was not, however, effected
without most serious loss ; for 700 officers
and men were killed and wounded.
Among these Brigadier -General Neill
and Major Couper were killed, and
ten other officers fell, besides those who
died of their wounds. At this time
the houses were all perforated with
cannon-shot, and the Cawnpore Battery
was a mass of ruins ; the outpost at
Innes's house roofless ; and out of the
Brigade Mess alone 435 cannon-balls
were taken. The besieged were not,
tiowever, free. Those who relieved
chem had possession of the Tara Kothi
and the Farhat Bakhsh Palace, as also
the Chatr Manzil Palace, which were
on the river's side, and from which the
enemy's fire had been most fatal, par-
ticularly from the Clock Tower.
Though the garrison had extended
cheir positions, the enemy were far
from abandoning the city, and Outram
and Havelock with their troops were
themselves blockaded. On the 26th
of September » sortie was made, and
our men spiked two mortars and blew
up a powder magazine. Captain Lowe
brought in as trophies an 18-pounder,
a 9-pounder, and five smaller gans.
After this the garrison frequently took
the offensive and captured several posi-
tions. Attempts were then made to
open communications with ' Alam Bagh,
where the relieving force had deposited
their ba^age and ammunition, with 4
guns ana 300 men as an escort. The
attempt failed, for an intervening
mosque was filled with riflemen, and
too strongly fortified to be taken
without very great loss. The be-
sieged now repaired their defences,
and extended them near Innes's poet,
by taking and fortifying a mound,
which became one of their strongest
positions. Fighting went on inoes*
santly. Provisions had again become
scarce. The palaces which had bea
taken by our troops continued to be the
object of severe attacks. On the 10th
of November Sir Colin Campbell reached
*Alam Bagh, and relieved the garrison
besieged there. At this time James
Kavanagh, an unoovenanted officer who
had distinguished himself in several
sorties, offered to carry despatches from
Sir James Outram at Lucknow to Sir
Colin Camj^bell at 'Alam Bagh, and
owing to ms courage and address mc-
ceeded in conveying them through the
lines of the enemy. Sir Colin, leaving
his baggage in the 'Alam Bagh, pro-
ceeded to the DUkusha, in which move-
ment his advanced guard encountered
a heavy fire, but drove the rebels past
the Martini^re College. On the 12th
an attack of the rebels was repulsed,
and on the 14th the rearguard joined
Sir Colin. On the 16th Sir Colin's
whole force, except the 8th, left to
guard the Dilkusha, advanced against
the Sikandara Bagh. After a desperate
conflict, the 4th Sikhs, the 93d High-
landers, and the 52d, broke into the
entrance, and next day 2000 dead
bodies of the rebels told the result
While this battle was raging, the
English suffered much from a mur-
derous fire directed upon them from
the Shah Najaf mosque. This place
was next taken by Peel's Naval Bngade
and the 93d. The troops then rested
for the night, though fired on con-
tinually from the a^'acent buildings.
On the 17th the Mess-house, a I&i^
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ROUTE 16. LUCKNOW
245
two-storied, flat-roofed house, flanked
bj two square turrets, was stormed. To
kflep up a line of communication with
tbe Dilkusha was the next object,
ud was effected with some loss. The
aemy then made a fierce attack on
tke Mess-house and the Highlanders
ii the barracks taken on the 16th, but
fere repulsed with great loss. On the
iftemoon of the 17th of November
Sir Colin met Outram and Havelock,
ind the relief of Lucknow was finally
effected. The British loss was 467
killed and wounded, of whom 10
officers were killed and 33 wounded.
That evening Sir Colin ordered the sick
and wounded, women and children, to
be moved from the Residency to the
Dilkusha. This was carried out on
the 22d. The enemy continued firing
into the old positions long after they
had been abandoned. On the 24th of
November Greneral Havelock died.
The Blachchi Bhawan and Great
Inambarah^ are N.W. of the Resi
<fency. This fort was blown up on the
night of the 30th of June 1857, at the
commencement of the siege of the Resi-
dency. It has now been repaired and
extended, and includes the Great Imam-
barah. The Rumi Darwazah, or Con-
8tantinopl« Gate, the W. entrance, is
said to have been built by Asafu-
danlah in imitation of that gate at
Constantinople from which the Turkish
Government derives its name of '* Sub-
lime Porte.'* This gate is 220 yds. to
the W. of the street leading to the
Imambarah. Entering under an arch,
you will find on the rt. a large mosque,
and ascend a number of steps to the
hnambarah, which faces N., and is said
to have cost a million sterling.
The central or great Hall is 163 ft.
long, and 63 ft. broad. The ceiling of
the octagonal room adjoining is hand-
somely decorated, but not coloured.
A perfectly plain masonry slab, without
any inscription, marks where Asafu-
daulah was interred. From the
^ Literally the chief • (Imam) enclosure.
The word is "applied to a building maintained
17 8hi'a communitieB in India for the ezpresa
poipose of celebrating the Muharram cere-
monies** in commemoration of the martyrdom
of the Sons of All (see Tule's Glostary of
Anglo-Indian W<yrd$, etc)
terraced roof of the Imambarah is a
magnificent view over the city. The
Imambarah was built in 1784 A.D., the
year of the great famine, to afford relief
to the people.
A few yds. to the left is an extensive
and old Baoli, which is very picturesque.
The mosque close by has rersian verses
over the door, with the date 1250 A.H.
=1834 A.D.
The original Machchi Bhawan was
built by the Shaiks, called also the
Shahzadahs or princes of Lucknow,
about two centuries ago. All that is
left of their building is the round earthen
bastions on the S. of the road. The
high ground across the road within the
fort surmounted by a small mosque, is
Lakshman Tila, where Lakshman,
brother of Ramchandra, founded the
village of Lakshmanpur, the first in-
habited spot of the city whence it
derives its name. The mosque was
built by Aurangzeb.
J m. W. of the Rumi Darwazah is
the Jumma Mtisfid, or principal
mosque, the most beautiful buildmg
in Lucknow. Not far off is the Husain-
ahad Inw/mharak, built by Muhammad
'Ali Shah, 1837 A.D., as a burial-place
for himself. It consists of two large
enclosures, one of which is at right
angles to the other. This Imambarah
is small in comparison with that in the
Machchi Bhawan, but has some beauty
of execution and finish in detail. It
stands in a large quadrangle, which
has a marble reservoir of water in the
centre, crossed by a fanciful iron bridge.
The Imambarah is filled with mirrors
and chandeliers. The throne of the
king, covered with beaten silver, and
his wife's divan, with solid silver sup-
ports, are to be seen here. There is
also, not far off, a seven-storied watch-
tower, also commenced by Muhammad
'Ali Shah, but interrupted by his
death.
The Iron Bridge.— This bridge over
the Goomti was brought from England
by order of the king, Ghaziu-din
Haidar. At \\ m. to the £. of it, on the
right bank of the Goomti, is the Tarra-
wall Kathif or Observatory (lit. Star
House), now occupied by the Bank of
Bengal, built by Nasiru-din Haidar.
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246
ROUTE 16. RAHARANPOBE TO MOGUL SARAT
India
The instruments disappeared in the
Rebellion. The rebel Maulvi Ahma-
du'llah, of FVzabad, made it his head-
qoarters, and the rebel council often
met there. The space in front of it,
between if and the Kaiser Bagh, is
where the prisoners, men and women,
sent in by the Dhauahra Rajah on the
24th September 1857, were massacred
on the 16th November 1857. Here,
opposite the door to the Kaiser Bagh,
is the Orr Monument, which marks the
spot where the poor victims felL
The Farhat Bakhsh Palace is next
to the Presidency to the E. It was the
royal palace from the time of S'aadat
'All Khan II. till Wajid *Ali buUt the
Kaiser Bagh. The part which over-
looks the river was ouilt by General
Martin, and sold by him to the Nawab.
The rest was built by S'aadat *Ali Khan.
It is the building referred to in The
Private Life of an Eastern King.
The throne-room, known as the Kasr-
i-Sultan or Lai Barahdari, was set
apart for royal darbars. At the acces-
sion of a new king it was the custom
for the Resident to seat him on the
throne, and then present him with a
Nazar or "offering." In this room
the Badshah Begam, after she had
forced open the gate with an elephant,
endeavoured to compel the Resident,
Colonel Lowe, to place Munna Jan,
the illegitimate son of Nasiru-din
Haidar, on the throne.
The Chatr Maiudl (Umbrella House)
is E. of Residency. It was built by
Nasiru-din. The best rooms are
now used by the United Service Club^
and for ritmiona and theatricals.
During the Mutiny this building was
surrounded by a high brick wall, of
which the reoels availed themselves,
and during the advance of Havelock
it was heavily cannonaded.
The N. £. gat6 «f ^e Kaiser
Bagh, a stucco palace buili in 1850,
faces the open space in front of
the Observatory. At the entrance
is the tomb of S'aadat 'Ali Khan
II. The road through the largs
court leads across the Chini Bagh
to the Hazrat Bagh. There on the
right hand is the Chandiwali Barah-
dari, which used to be paved with
silver, and the Khas Makam and Bad-
shah Manzil, formerly the special resi-
dence of the king. On the left Ib the
Chaulakhi, built by *Azimu llah Hian,
the royal barber, and sold to the kingfor
4 lakhs. Here resided the Queen and
her chief ladies. During the Rebellion
she held her court here, and in a stable
close by our prisoners were kept for
weeks. The E. Lakhi Gate, so calki
from having cost a lakh, opens into ^e
large sq^uare of the Kaiser Bagh proper,
the buildings round which were oc-
cupied by ladies of the harem. Hire
the Great Fair was held in August, ind
all the people of the city were {Emitted.
After passing through the W. I^
Gate, the visitor will come to tiu
Kaiser Pasand, or " Csesar's Pleasure,"
surmounted by a gilt semicircle and
hemisphere. As the visitor passes out
of the Kaiser Bagh he faces the SMr Dar-
wazah, under which General NeiU was
killed, by a discharge of grape from
a gun placed at the gate of the Kidser
Bagh. In the Hazratgaig Koad, which
passes the N. face of the Kaiser Bagli,
IS the mausoleum of Amjad 'Ali
Shah.
The Moti Mahal includes three
buildings. The one properly called
Moti Mahal is at the N. of the en-
closure, and was built by S'aadat 'Ali
Khan. It is said it was named because
its dome, now destroyed, resembled a
pearl. Tha celebrated wild-beast fi^ts
took place in the Shah Mauxil. Bat
the fights between elephants and rhino-
ceroses were exhibited in front of the
Hazuri Bagh, on the other side of the
Goomti, and the king and his court
watched them from the verandah of
the Shah Manzil, where they were
safe.
The Shah Najaf was built by Ghaau-
din Haidar, the first King of Oudh,
in 1814, and is now his mausoleum. It
is situated about one-fifth of a mile to the
E. of the Moti Mahal, and 180 yds. to
the S. of the right bank of the GoomtL
It is a white mosque of scanty elevation
compared with ite immense low dome.
Inside it is filled with Taaiyahi or
paper pageants, and small pictures of
the different nawabs and kingB, and
their favourite ladies.
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ROUTE 16. LUCKNOW
247
Here the adyance under Sir Colin
Oimpbell received a severe check.
The Khimhid Ilanzil is in rear of
tie Moti Mahal, and hetween it and
tie Ohservatory. It is a strongly-hnilt
fiain house, which was fortified by the
ttbels. It is now a Girls' School aflBli-
ited to the Martini^e. It was stormed
\y detachments of the 53d and 90th,
md the Naval Brigade, with some
Sikhs. It is interesting because here
Outram and Havelock met Sir Colin
Campbell, after severe loss in passing
the fire of the rebels.
Sikandara Bagh (Alexander Garden)
is about one-third of a mile to the E. by
S. of the Shah Najaf, and between them
lie the gardens of the Oudh Agri-horti-
cultmJ^ Society, which are very exten-
sive. The Sikandara Bagh is 120 yds. sq .,
aod is surrounded by a high solid wall.
It was built by Wajid *Ali, for one of
lus ladies, named Sikandar Mahal.
Daring the Mutiny a body of Sepoys
retreated to this garden, under the
Mef that there was an outlet to it,
through which they might escape.
The wall of the Bagh was breached by
means of field-guns at the angle nearest
the Wingfield Park. Lieut. Coop^,
93d Highlanders, was the first into
the S. Bagh. He is described as jump-
ing head first through the small breach
**iike the clown in a pantomime." A
seoond party made for the gate, where
a Sikh corporal put his right hand
through the hole in the gate to lift
the latch. His hand was at once cut
off, but without hesitation he put in
his left hand, lifted the bolt, and the
party rushed in and were followed by
their regiments, who bayoneted every
inan inside the enclosure. In it is a
tomb to Lieut. Dobbs and the men who
were killed in the action.
The MartiwUre is 1 m. to the S.E.
of the Wingfield Park. It is an irregu-
lar building, in a sort of debased Italian
style. The basement story is raised to
a good height above the ground, and
has extensive wings, but the super-
structure is bizarre, and has not in-
correctly been styled "a whimsical
pile,*' though there is something strik-
ing in its great central tower. There
MB four towers and a central one, sup-
ported by flying buttresses. Thecollege
contains from 120 to 180 boys, wlio ob-
tain a substantial and useful education
free of expense. This institution was
founded by Major-Gteneral Claude Mar-
tin. His tomb is in the £. crypt
of the chapel, a plain sarcophagus,
guarded by a marble grenadier, with
arms reversed, at each angle. This
tomb was restored in 1865.
General Martin was the son of a
cooper, and served as a soldier under
Lally in the regiment of Lorraine. He
and some of nis comrades formed a
company of Chasseurs under Law, and
famsoned Chandernagore, till taken
y Clive. He then entered the British
army, and rose to the rank of captain.
In 1776 he entered the service of the
Nawabs of Oudh, but the British
Government allowed him to retain his
rank, and to enjoy promotion. In 1783
he formed the acquamtance of De Boigne,
and took part with him in cultivating
indigo and lendingmoney to the Nawab,
by which he acquired a large fortune.
It is said that Asafu-daulah offered him
1,000,000 sterling for the Martini^re.
But the Nawab died before the bargain
was completed, and General Martin him-
self died before the building was finished,
and he directed it should be completed
out of the funds left to endow a school
there. The visitor should ascend to
the roof, where he will see the damage
done by the rebels to the building and
statues. They broke open the tomb of
General Martin, and scattered his bones
about, but these were collected and re-
placed by the British. In the Martini^re
Park are the tombs of several officers
killed in action at this time.
Dilktisha, or " heart-expanding," was
a villa built by S'aadat Ali Khan, in
the midst of an extensive deer-park.
It stands about J m. to the S. of the
Martini^re across the railway. It was
captured on the 12th of November 1857.
Here, on the 24th, General Havelock ex-
pired, as is recorded in his epitaph at the
' Alam Bagh. The building is nowa ruin.
The Cantonment lies about Dilkusha
Palace, some S miles from the Chatr
Manrdl.
Wingfield "Pcvrlc is ^ m. to the S. of.the
Sikandara Bagh. It is very pretty, and
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248
ROUTE 16. SAHARANPORB TO MOGUL 6ARAI
India
is adorned with many white marble
pavilions and statues, and has a large
pa^rilion in the centre, surrounded by
SO acres of grounds and flower-gardens.
One statue represents a man attacked
by a wolf, and has on it, "The first
Premium adjudged to N. Road, by the
Society of Polite Arts, 100 guineas, 1761
A.D." There is said to be a statue by
Canova. This park was named after
Sir C. Wingfield, Chief Commissioner.
'Alam Bagh. — This place is IJ m.
S.W. of the Oudh and Rohilcund
railway station, and is in a walled en-
closure of 500 sq. yds., and commands
the road to Cawnpore, for which reason
it was chosen for Sir J. Outram's posi-
tion, when, on Sir Colin Campbell s re-
treat with the women and the wounded,
he was left behind to keep the rebels in
check. It was built by Wajid 'Ali as
an occasional residence for a favourite
wife. Here is General Havelock's tomb,
surmounted by an obelisk 30 ft. high,
with an inscription recording his death
on the 24th of November 1857.
Cfhrist Church is situated near the
Post Office. It is a neat building with
a tower. The church compound is
prettily laid out with many flowers
and creepers. There are a number of
interesting tablets on the walls. Those
in memory of Sir James Outram and
Sir H. liwrence deserve particular
attention.
Badshdhi Bagh is on the left bank of
the Goomti, and 1100 yds. from tlie
Residency. The mutineers had a
battery here, and from it came the
shell which killed Sir Henry Lawrence.
The remains of aqueducts and water-
works show that it must have been a
ceol and delightful place before the
Mutiny.
About 3 m. from Lucknow are the
Elephant Stables of the Government
Commissariat Dej^rtment, containing
at least 30 fine animals.
The bazaar is worth a visit Remark
the silversmiths, jewellers, pipe makers,
gold and silver wire drawers, lace
weavers, clay figure makers, etc. etc.
The Nakhas, or Bird Bazaar, is specially
interesting.
409 m. Fysabad junc. sta. (R.), D.B.
[Branch to Ajodhya Ohat, 6 m.
Thence to Mankapur for Baraitch and
Naipalganj.]
Fyzabad is a municipality, the captal
of a district, and the headquarters of
the Commissioner. The city has falkn
into decay since the death, in 1816, of
Bahu Begam, who resided here for
many years. The pop. of Fyzabad and
Ajodhya (see below) is 79,000. There
are 36 Hindu temples, of which 25
are to Shiva, 10 to Vishnu, and one
belonging to the Nanak Shahis. There
are 114 mosques and one Imambarab.
The Ramnaumi Fair is attended by
500, 000 pilgrims. Fyzabad is bounded
to the N. by the Gogra river, whidi
here divides into two streams, both
crossed by pontoon bridges. The
Cantonment lies to the N.W. of the
Indian city, at the S.W. comer of
which the railway from Benares to
Lucknow passes.
The Mausoleum of the Bahu Begam
is about li m. to the S.E. of the D.B.
She was wife of Shuia'u - daukh,
Nawab of Oudh, and motner of Asafa-
daulah. It is by far the finest
mausoleum in the province of Ondh
and its neighbourhood. The cenotaph
is of marble without inscription, ike
total height may be taken at 140 ft
There is a very fine view from the top.
The Mausoleum of Shi:^a'u • danlah
is close by, and is something like the
Begam's, but not nearly so grand or
imposing. At each of the four comera
of the building are an oblong reservoir,
and a square one. In the centre space
on the ground floor are three tomb-
stones without any writing. The
centre slab is that of Shuja'u-daulah.
His mother's is to the W., and that of
his son, Mansur *Ali, to the E In the
W. side of the enclosure is a mosque
at the N. end, with an Imamharah on
the S. The place for a tablet is seen
in the E. face of the mosque wall,
but so carelessly were things done in
Oudh that it has not been filled in,
and nowhere is there any inscription,
though the building cost a vast sum.
The Divisional JaU is only J m. to
the N.W. of the mausoleums; the
Churchy St. Andrew's, about 1 m. to
the N.W. of the D.B. The cemetery
is a little way to the N. of it The
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ROUTE 16. PYZABAD — AJODHTA
249
Cipil Station cantonments and environs
an beautifully wooded with innumer-
aUe tamarind, mango, and other trees.
He Museum is interesting.
It is a short drive by Fort Calcutta,
iilience will be seen the bridges over the
Gogra, to the Gupta Park, which is
prettily laid out. At the S. end of the
J irk is a temple, where they say Ram
sappeared. The first Nawab of Oudh,
S'aadat 'All Ehan, seldom resided at
Tyzabad, though it was his nominal
capital, nor did his successor Safdar
Jang; but in 1776 Shuja'u-daulah,
who sncceeded, took up his permanent
residence there. When defeated at
Buxar he fled to Fyzabad and con-
structed the lofty entrenchment whose
ramparts of rammed clay frown over
the Go^ra, and have been rendered
famous by the oratory of Burke and
Sheridan. At his death, in 1775, his
widow, the Bahu Begam, remained at
Fyzabad, while Asafu-daulah, the then
Nawab, removed to Lucknow.
[6 m. Ajodhya sta., Sanscrit
Jpudhya, on the banks of the Oogra,
is where the great Ram Chandra once
feigned. In tne Gazetteer of Oudh, voL
i- p. 2, it is said that this town is to the
Hmdn what Mecca is to the Moham-
medans and Jerusalem to the Jews.
The ancient city is said to have covered
an area of 48 kos, or 96 m. , and to have
been the capital of Koshala, " the re-
splendent," the country of the Solar
race of kings, of whom Mann was the
first Fer^sson says that from this
city Ayuthia, the capital of Slam, takes
its name. It is doubtful for what
reason the Solar race dispersed, but it
is certain that on leaving ^odhya the
ancestors of the rulers of Oodeypore,
Jodhpur, and other Rajput cities
^vandered with their followers over
India, until they at last settled in
Rajpntana. For some centuries the
Buddhists, under Asoka and his
successors, were supreme. Vikramajit
is said to have restored Brahmanism,
and to have traced the ancient city by
the holy river Saiju, which was the
andent name of the Gogra, and to
lutve indicated the shrines to which
pilgrims still flock. Tradition says
that Ylkram ruled for 80 years, and
was succeeded by the Jogi Samundra
PaJ, who spirited away the Rajah's soul
and entered his body. He and his
successors ruled for 643 years. This
dynasty was succeeded by a Jain
dynasty, the Shrl Bastam family, and
these again by the Eanauj dynasty.
A copper grant of Jai Chand, the last
of the Kanauj Rathors, dated 1187
A.D., was found near Fyzabad. This
date is six years before his death (see
As. Soc. Jou/m. vol. x. part i p. 861).
Koshala was the cradle of Buddhism,
for Shakya Muni, its founder, was
bom at Eapila, in the Gorakhpur
district, and preached at Ajodhya.
Here, too, was bom Rikhab Deo, of
Ikshwaku's royal race, who founded
the Jain faith. The Chinese traveller,
Hiouen Thsang found at Ajodhya 20
Buddhist monasteries with 3000 monks.
According to him, the celebrated Tooth-
brash Tree of Buddha grew here.
The road from Fyzabad cantonment
to Ajodhya (4 m.) is excellent, and
it may be found more convenient than
the railway. On entering Ajodhya,
turn to the left up a narrow street to a
place where there are a few shops;
then turn again to the left, and ascend
some steps, opposite Man Sing's house,
to a platform, where is the Janam
Sthan Temple. In the sanctum, the
door of which has a silver frame, are
images of Sita and Ram. Ram has
a gleaming jewel of large size, which
looks like a light -coloured sapphire.
The temple is an oblong of about
200 ft. X 150 ft The walls are 45 ft.
high, and seem strong enough for a
fortress ; which justifies its name of
HdnunumOarh, "Hanuman's fortress."
It is also called Ramkot, and is said to
be of Aurangzib's time. The neigh-
bouring trees swarm with middle-sized
gray monkeys of grave demeanour.
To the N. W. is the temple of Eanak
Bhawan, or Sone Ea Garh, with images
of Sita and Ram crowned with gold,
whence the name "Fortress of Gold."
This is said to be the oldest temple
here.
The Janam Sthan, or place where
Ram Chandra was bom, is i m. W. of
the Hanuman Garh. Close to the
door, and outside it, is a Mohammedan
Digitized by VjOOQIC
250
BOTTTB 1 6. SAHARANPUR TO HOGUL SARAI
India
cemetery, in which are buried 75
Mohammedans who were killed in a
fight with the Hindus for the possession
of the temple in 1855. Up to that
time both Hindus and Mohammedans
used to worship in the temple. Since
British rule a railing has been put up,
within which the Mohammedans pray.
Outside, the Hindus make their offer-
ings. The actual Janam Sthan is a
plain masonry platform, just outside
the mosque or temple, but within the
enclosure, on the left-hand side. The
primeval temple perished, but was re-
built by Vikram, and it was his temple
that the Mohammedans converted into
a mosque. Europeans are expected to
take off their shoes if they enter the
building, which is quite plam, with the
exception of twelve black pillars taken
firom the old temple. On the pillar on
the left of the door on entering may be
seen the remains of a figure which ap-
pears to be either Krishna or an Apsara.
At about J m. to the N. of
Janam Sthan is Swarga Dwara, or
Ram Ghat, where Rama bathed ; and
one-eighth of a mile to the S. W. <rf it is
LaTcBhrnan's Ghat, where Lakshman,
the half-brother of Rama, used to bathe.
1 m. to the S. of Hanuman Garh is the
Mani Parbat, and to its S. again is the
Kuver Parhat and Sugriv Parhat, hill-
ocks of great antiquity. The Mani
Parbat Hill is 65 ft. high, and is
covered with broken bricks and blocks
of masonry. The bricks are 11 in. sq.
and 3 in. thick. At 46 ft. above the
ground, on the W. side, are the remains
of a curved wall faced with KdrUcar
blocks. To the S., at the distance of
500 ft., is the Enver Parbat, 28 ft.
high. The history of these mounds is
obscure, and the traditions concerning
them are conflicting. Cunningham
supposes that the great monastery
described by Hiouen Thsang is the
Sugriv Parbat, which is 560 ft. long
by 300 ft. broad, and that the Mani
Parbat is the Stupa of Asoka, built on
the spot where buddha preached the
law during his six years* residence at
Saketa.
Near the Lakshman Ghat is a large
modem temple, built by the Rajah of
Bhriya. 300 yds. from this is a hill
90 ft. high, with a small Jain temple
sacred to Adinath. At the Swarga
Dwara are the vast ruins of a mosque,
with an iron post 21 in. long and 6 in.
broad and two minarets 40 ft. high.
They are probably of the time of
Aurangzib.]
484 m. JAUNPUB City sta. (R. ), D.B.
(There are 2 stations at Jaunpur — the
Civil Lines, or Zafarabad sta. is 4 m.
farther on.)
Jaunpur is a place of much interest,
and was the capital of an independent
Mohammedan kingdom (the Sharki
dynasty) from 1897-1478, and retained
a partial independence until finallj
conquered by Akbar. The first thine
to be seen is the famous Bridge^
over the Goomti, erected by Akh«r.
It consists of 10 spans besides those
standing on the land ; the middle
group of 4 being larger than the 3 at
each end. It was designed by 'Aizal
'Ali, a Kabuli architect, at the expense
of Munim Khan, one of Akbar*s high
officers. It is constructed principally
of stone, and was commenced in 1564
and completed in 1568. Formerly
there were shops on either side, bnt
these were destroyed during the flood
of 1774. It is said to nave cost
£300,000. Approaching it from the
Civil Lines ana what was formerly
the cantonments, the traveller passes
beneath the large gates of the Saiii,
on the first of which is recorded
the "Flood Level" at this point in
1774 during the great inundation,
when most of the minor houses were J
swept away. The water rose to aj
height of 18 ft
Some 200 yds. to the N. after crossing
the bridge, and not far from the Pcm
Office and T(ywn Hall, is the N. entrance
of the Atala Mtujid, erected on tha
site of an old Hindu temple dedicated
to the goddess Atala Deri, which was
destroyed in Sultan Ibrahim's reign
and the materials used up and converted
into a mosque. On the principal
1 Some of the piers and arehes are inscribed,
and have been ftiUy dealt with in a Tolnne
Sublished by Fuhrer and Smith of the Arch«oL
urvey of Indiaj^ntitled the Sfcatyi^rcMto*
we ofJawypw CTrttbner).
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ROUTE 16. JAUNPUR
251
lEhrab, built of black marble, immedi-
ately in the centre of the main W. wall
of the Musjid proper in which the
pmyers are said, is a verse from the
Koran, and above it the creed. The
ft^ade is 75 ft. high. Almost in the
centre of the large courtyard and to
the N.E. of the mnsallah or praying-
ffonnd is a well with a fine citron-
leaved Indian fig-tree {Ficus venosa).
A-t the S.W. comer of the large square
is a chamber screened by a lattice of
stone, intended for the women. Lead-
ing fh>m it to the roof is a staircase.
Behind the propylon screening the
dome from the courtyard and surround-
ing 3 sides of the drum of the dome,
condition, and were probably destroyed
by Sikandar Lodi. The N". and S.
entrance gates have been restored and
are surmounted by domes. In the
cloisters and walls many stones from
Hindu temples have been utilised.
Its general arrangement resembles that
of the Atala and the Lai Darwazah
Mosques (see below), and the fa^des
are not unlike, although the cloisters
here have 3 tiers, whilst those at the
Atala have only 2. The mosque proper
IB very massive, almost fort-like in con-
struction. It measures 59 ft. x 235
ft., including the thickness of the
walls, but not the bastions at the angles.
It is divided into 5 compartments on
West half of Jumma Mn^id.
is a chamber some 11 ft. high and
6 ft. wide.
At the end of a narrow lane, raised
on a platform some 20 ft. in height,
is the splendid Jumma Mnsjid, built
by Husain Sharki, commenced 1438,
finished 1478. Some attribute the
design to Ibrahim, as his family lie in
the cloistered court of a building
adjoining the N. side of the Musjid.
On entering the S. gate the visitor will
notice on one of the outer voussoirs
of the exterior arch an inscription
(upside down) in Sanscrit of the
8th cent., another in Tughra charac-
ters over the top of the central mihrabt
And a third in Arabic characters around
the outer margin of the arch. The N. ,
S., and £. sides are in a dilapidated
the ground floor, and above are 2 zenana
chambers, one on each side of the grand
dome, with splendid stone carved ceil-
ings. On the E. side is an immense
propylon 80 ft. high divided by string
courses into 5 stories.
N. of the mosque is the burial
ground of the Sharki kings, the walls
of which approach the N. wall of the
mosque within 30 ft. In the quadrangle
is the tomb of Ohulam *Ali with a
fine Persian inscription. In the centre,
beyond this tomb, is that of Sultan
Ibrahim Shah. The only inscription
is on a round stone in the centre,
which has the Ealraiah.
Next to the tomb of Ibrahim is that
of his son Sultan Hashim Shah, with
an inscription of the^date 15j58.
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252
ROUTE 16. 8AHARANPUR TO MOGUL SARAI
India
The Fort of Feroz, known as the
Fort Musjid, and the earliest building
in Jaunpur of note, was built about
1860, and was almost entirely con-
structed from mined temples. The
entrance gate, 47 ffc. high, is covered
with kashani Tiak, a sort of blue and
yellow enamelled bricks, of which beau-
tiful portions remain. The inner gate
has many stones of Hindu temp»les
bmlt into the walls, on some of which
is canred a belL At 200 ft. from this
gate is a low mosque, 180 x 22 ft, divided
into 8 chambers by lateral walls, with a
reservoir in front, and a remarkable
Lat, or minor, apparently unaltered
since its erection and beautifully in-
scribed. The river-face of the Fort is
300 ft beyond this pillar. It is 150 ft.
in perpendicular height, and commands
a noble view of the country and city.
Before reaching it the visitor will see
a round tower called the magazine,
with a hammam,, or bath, on the left
At a market-place at the S. end of the
bridge is a stone lion somewhat larger
than life, which was found in the fort.
Under it is a young elephant, which
it is supposed to have seized. From
this all oistances in the city and pro-
vince are calculated. The Church
(Holy Trinity) contains a tablet to
Manton Collingwood Ommaney, B.C.S.,
Judicial Commissioner of Oudh, who
rebuilt it in 1852, and died at Lucknow
during the siege. With him are buried
his two sons.
Besides the mosques already men-
tioned, there are six others : 1. Mosque
of Malik Khalis Mukhlis, bmlt on the
site of the favourite temple of Vyaya
Chandra, which was broken down by
Malik Ehalis and Malik Mukhlis, by
order of Sultan Ibrahim. They built
this mosque in the place of it In one
)f the pillars is a black stone, still
worshipped by the Hindus. 2. Chachak-
pur Mosque, called Jhanjhri Musjid,
on account of the ** screen-like "
appearance of its ornamentation, was
a temple built by Jai Chandra, and
converted by Ibruiim into a mosque.
8. To the W. of the city is the Lai
Darwaiah Mosque, so called in memory
of. the **high gate painted with ver-
milion " belonging to the palace
erected close by at the same time by
Bibi Raji, Queen of Sultan Mnhammitd,
son of Ibndiim. This is the smallest
of the Jaunpur mosques. The s^le
of architecture is the same as that
of the Jumma and Atala Musjids,
but the buildine throughout is on a
less massive and much lighter scale.
The date is uncertain, though prob-
ably the cloisters of the court were
erected about 1447. On the N., S.,
and K sides of the court are massive
gate entrances. The cloisters are 2
bays deep, and the W. walls as well as
the cloisters are panelled. The columns
should be well studied on account of
their variety : they have once formed
part of Hindu fanes. Some are in-
scribed with valuable inscriptions.
The pro^ylon, the principal feature
of the building, stan<nng in the centre
of the W. facade is 48 ft 6 in. high, and
is wider at tne base than the top. The
towers contain staircases leading to a
mezzanine floor, on each side of the
dome. The principal mihrab is of black
stone. On the top of the architrave
is an Arabic inscription. 4. Mcequeof
Nawab Muhsin Khan. Sukh Mandil,
who was the Diwan of Khan Zamin
Khan, had built a pagoda where this
mosque stands, and when Khan Zaman
was killed the building came to Muhsin
Khan, who was one of Akbar's courtiers,
and he destroyed the pagoda, and built
a mosque. 5. The Mosque of Shah
Eabir, built by Baba Beg Jala^,
governor of Jaunpur in Akbar's reign,
in 1588, in honour of the saint Shah
Eabir. 6. The Idgah Mosque, built
by Sultan Husain, and repaired in
Akbar's reign by Khan Ehanan. It
then fell into a ruinous state, and was
deserted till restored by Mr. Welland.
488 m. Zafarabad sta., for the Civil
Lines of Jaunpur.
520 m. Benares sta. (see Rte. 1).
530 m. Mogul Sarai junc. sta. with
the East Indian Railway (see Rte. 1).
d by Google
y Google
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ROUTB 16a. BAREILLT JUNOTION TO RAKIKHET
253
i#a-*
^^A,
yr^
^^
ROUTE 16a
aEiLLT Junction by the
ND KuHAON Railway
7aini Tal, Almorah, and
SET.
(seep. 238.)
iBhojeepnra jane. From here
iN. to
Eathgodam (R.) terminus
le journey from here to Naini
5 hrs. ; tne distance is 14 m.
1 m. in tongas, the last 3 m.
or on ponies. From the tIj.
[>untnr is flat for 2 m. as far
jh D.B. The road then
Le yalley of the Balaya, amidst
scenery, with waterfalls
Tdown deep rayines, to (11
Here are refreshment-
here a more circuitous
Rambagh falls in, and the
ent of the ghat (8 m. to Naini
^r^'^'^Wmmences. On the way up
"'^^^^-■Sis Dale," a pleasant halting-
I passed.
I Tal, 3^ D. 6. , is a &yourite sani-
■ the N.W. Proyinces, and the
r residence of the Lieut. -Goyer-
» a small military station. It
Qely picturesque, and the lake
> of its most striking features ;
trayellers with a limited time
r disposal it does not possess the
dons of Daijeeling or Simla.
i Lake is nearly 1 m. long, and
broad, with an area of 120
The flood-leyel is 6410 ffc. aboye
The depth ranges from 5
at the N. end to 16^ in the
dest port ; and there are Sulphur
at the end near the Conyales-
eent Depdt The total area of the
settlement is 6| sq. m.
The chief population is to the N.W.
of the lake, where are, dose to the lake,
the Assembly Booms with Library, and
the Masonic Hall, about 1} m. from the
B.B. The Club about } m. farther,
the Post Office lying on the way, and
some Ewopean shops. The Cricket,
Poh, and Laum Tennis Grounds ; the
Eacquet-eourtt Bathing Sheds, Billiard
Booms, and Public Octrdens are all near
the Assembly RoomB on the N.W.
There are numerous Bducational In-
stitutions, including a Kindergarten,
and Lady Dufferin s Hospital, opened
in 1890. The highest peaks are to the
N.W., as China, which is 8668 ft.
aboye sea-leyel, Deopathar, 7589 ft, etc
The Chwrch of St. John in the
WHdemess, i m. beyond the Club, is
built of stone. It lias a roof of dark-
coloured wood, and has two stained-
glass windows. There is a handsome
brass under the window, on the N. side
of the communion-table, in memory of
Cuthbert Bensley Thomhill, C.S.I.
On 18th September 1880 a frightfril
catastrophe occurred at Naini TaL
On Thursday the 16th of September
rain fell in torrents, and continued to
fetll during FrL and Sat., when in the
24 hrs. 83 in. had fetllen. The Victoria
Hotel, which stood about 280 yds. to
the N. of the N. comer of the lake, had
a lofty hill at its back. At 10 o'clock
on the morning of Saturday, the 18th,
a slight landslip occurred on the spur
of the hill, behmd the hotel, crushmg
in the outhouses and a portion of the
rear of the premises, and buiying
several natives and one European chilo.
Assistant- Commissioner Mr. Leonard
Taylor, with some police and labourers,
came at once to render assistance, and
sent for the military, who hastened to
the spot under the command of Captain
Balderstone. The work of extricating
the dead and wounded went on till
1.30 P.M., when in a moment the whole
precipitous cliff overhanging the spot
tell with a tremendous roar, burying
at once the hotel, the soldiers, the
assembly rooms, library, orderly room,
road, and warden. Almost every person
in the buudings and grounds was en-
tombed. The place shook as with an
earthquake, and the waters of the
lake were driten to the S. part of it in
an immense wave, while vast clouds
of dust rose from the falling masses
like volumes of smoke after a terrible
explosion.
There is a pretty ride on the W. side
of the lake, where the visitor may
ascend to a considerable height. But
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254
BOUTE 17. LHAKSAR JUNCTION TO HARDWAB, ETC.
India
the finest views will be obtained on
the E. side, e.g. from Sher ke Danda,
whence the snowy mountains beyond
Almorah and Ranikhet may be seen.
The visitor who is fond of sport might
go to Ranikhet and Almorah for a short
tour by the bridle-paths as below : —
Miles from
Nos.
Names of Villages.
Village to
Village.
1
Prom Naini Tal to
Kliyrna D.B. .
12
2
From Khyrna to Rani-
khet D.B. .
18
8
From Ranikhet to
Maykhali D.B. .
8
4
MaykhaU to Almorah
16
6
From Almorah to Peora
D.B. .
9
6
From Peora to Ramgarh
D.B
12
7 From Ramgarh to Naini
Tal ... .
Total .
18
88 m.
There is a good cart-road from Naini
Tal to Ranikhet, about 60 m.
At Khyrna on the Casi River is mah-
sir fishing, also gooral shooting, and
a few leopapds in the hills. From
Khyrna to Almorah by the river is
ro^h going but fair fisning.
Excursions may also be made from
Naini Tal to Bhim Tal, 12 m. Bun-
galow and fishing : — Nankulchia Tal,
2 or 3 m. from Bhim Tal, camping-
ground and fishing, and to Malwa Tal
10 m. from Bhim Tal over the hills, a
very pretty lake, bungalow, fishing,
and good shooting procurable. From
Malwa Tal return to Bhim Tal, thence
to Eathgodam (7 m.)
Almonai,a«c D.B., the chief town
of the district of that name, 5600 ft.
above sea-level, pop. 7500 ; a station
for 2 battalions of Gurkhas, is famed
as a residence for persons with weak
lungs. The views of the snows are
fine. In the neighbourhood are the
Julna and Binsur fruit orchards,
Almorah to PiTwiri Glacier ^ 6 marches ;
D.B. on the way, but no supplies or
attendance. Make arrangements with
Assistant Commissioner at Naini Tal or
Al morah. Best time of year September
or October. Shooting plentiful.
Ranikhet, D.B., an important mili-
tary hill station. Pop. 6000. ElBvation
between 6000 and 7000 ft. The views
of the Himalaya snows from this station
are very grand. This place is reached
by dandy or pony^ from Kathgodam
sta. either via Naini Tal (Tonga Dak
to Brewery) or via Bhim TaL
ROUTE 17
Lhaksar Juno. to Habdwai,
Dhera Dun, and the hiut
STATIONS OF MUSSOORIK, LAH-
DOUR, AND ChAKRATA.
Lhaksar, on the Oudh and Rohikmid
railway.
[Branch line to 16 m. HardwBX
sta. (pop. 28,000). The height abov«
sea-level is 1024 ft. It is situated on
the right bank of the Ganges, at the
southern base of the Siwalik range, at
the mouth of a gorge through which
that great river enters the plains.
The Ganges here divides into several
channels, intercepted by large islands,
many of which are placed beyond the
reach of high-flood water. One of these
channels commences about 2^ m. above
Hardwar, and flows by it, and by Maya-
pur and Kankhal, rejoining the parent
stream a little below the last town.
The Ckinges Canal system commences
at Hardwar.
It is from a spot on this bank
between Mayapur and Kankhal that
the head-waters of the great Gwnges
Camil are taken.
The town is of great antiquity, and
has borne many names. It was origin-
ally known as Eapila, or Gupila, m)m
the sage Gupila, who passed a long
period here in religious austerities, at
a spot still called £ipila Sthana.
In the 7th century A.D. the Chinese
pil^m Hiouen Thsang visited a dty
which he calls Mo- Yu-Lo, which General
Cunningham identifies with Mayapar,
a little S. of the modern Hardwar.*
Hardwar was visited by Raper in
1808, who calls it a small place, " having
only one street about 15 ft. in breadth,
1 For the ancient history of Hardwar see
Arch. Rep, vol. IL p. 8«J.
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ROUTB 17. HABDWAB
256
and a furlong and a half in length.
Most of the houses have the upper
part of brick and the lov/er part of
stone, which is of cood quality."
The street is now fufly | m. long.
The name of Hardwar, ** Door of Hari
or Vishnu," is comparatively modem,
and probably does not date farther
back than 1400 a.d. The followers of
Shiva assert that the proper name is
Haradwara, * * the Door of Shiva. " It
ivas, however, the scene of sacred rites
long before the worship of Shiva
and Yishnu existed in their present
form. On the left is the Chandi Pahar,
on the top of which is a temple con-
nected witn those in Hardwar.
Hie great object of attraction now is
the temple of Qungadwara (see below),
and the adjoining bathing ghat This
ghat has its name from the Clmran, or
footprint of Vishnu or Hari, impressed
on a stone let into the upper wall, which
is an object of great veneration at
the annual gathering. Each pilgrim
stmggles to be first to plunge into the
pool after the propitious moment has
arrived, and strmgent police regulations
are required to prevent the crowd from
trampling one another to death and
drowning each other in the sacred
water. In 1819, 430 persons lost their
lives in this manner ; after which
accident Government built the present
enlarged ghat of 60 steps, 100 ft. wide.
The great assemblage of pilgrims takes
place on the 1st oi Baisakh (March-
AprU), when the Hindu solar year
begins, and the day on which the
Gimges is said to have first appeared.
The exact time for bathing is the
moment when the sun enters Aries.
But this day no longer corresponds
with the vernal solstice. The Hindu
calendar makes no allowance for the
S recession of the equinoxes. Their
few Year's Day has accordingly
gradually receded from the true period
imtil the difierence is now as much as
twenty-one days, the great bathing day
having been for many years past on the
1 1th of ApriL The advantages supposed
to be derived from bathing in the Ganges
are the cleansing from all sins. This be-
lief was as strong in 634 A. d. as it is now.
Every twelfth year the planet Jupiter
being in Aquarius, a feast of peculiar
sanctity occurs, called a Kumbh-mda,
attended by enormous crowds. In
ordinary years the pilgrims amount to
100,000, and at the Kumbh-mela to
300,000. Riots and bloody fights used
to be common ; in 1760, on the last
day of bathing (10th April), the rival
mobs of the Gusain and Bairagi sects
had a battle, in which 18,000 are said
to have perished. In 1795 the Sikh
pilgrims slew 600 Gusains.
The Hardwar mela ©r fair is also im-
portant in a mercantile point of view,
being one of the principal horse fairs
in Upper India, where Government pur-
chases remounts for the cavalry.
Commodities of all kinds, Indian or
European, find a ready sale, and the
trade in food-grains is lucrative.
From Hardwar the pilgrims proceed
to visit the shrine of Kedarnath, a
name of Shiva ; and that of Bhadri-
nath in Garhwal.
Within the limits of the old city
are the ruins of an old fort 750 ft.
square, attributed to Raja Ben, and
several lofty mounds covered with
broken bricks, of which the largest and
most conspicuous is just above the
Canal bridge. There are also three old
temples, to Narayana-shila, to Maya-
devi, and to Bhairava. A great variety
of old coins are found here every year.
The Temple of Narayana-shila is
made of bricks 9| in. square and 2^ in.
thick, and is plastered on the outside.
The Tiem^feq^ifaya-rfmisbuiltentirely
of stone, and General Cunningham
thinks it may be as old as the 10th or
11th century. The principal statue,
which is called Maya-devi, is a three-
headed and four-armed female, in the act
of killing a prostrate figure ; in one hand
is a discus, in another what resembles
a human head, and in a third a trident.
Greneral Cunningham points out that
this cannot be Maya, the mother of
Buddha, and thinks it may be Durga,
to whom Vishnu gave his discus, and
Shiva his trident Close by is a squat-
ting figure with eight arms, which must
be Shiva, and outside the temple is the
bull Nandi. Outside the Temple ofSarv-
vanath is a statue of Buddha under the
Bodhi tree accompanied by two standing
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256
KOtJTB 17. LHAKSAR JUNCTION OX) HARDWAR, EKJ.
India
and two flying figures. On the pedestal
is a wheel with a lion on- either side.
Oangadtoara is celebrated in the
Puranas as the scene of Daksha's
sacrifice, to which he neglected to in-
vite Shiva, the husband of his daughter
Sati. Sati attended the sacrifice in
spite of Shiva's warning not to do so,
and was so shocked at her father's
disrespect that she went to the bank
of the Ganges and by her own splen-
dour consumed her body. Enraged at
Sati's death, Shiva produced Vira-
Bhadra, who cut off Daksha's head
and threw it in the fire. Shiva restored
Daksha to life, but as his head had
been consumed, replaced it with that of
a goat or ram. The spot where Daksha
is supposed to have prepared his sacri-
fice IS now marked by the Temple of
Daksheshwaray a form of Shiva. It is
at the S. end of Eankhal, 2} m. below
the bathing ghat. Around the temple
are several smaller ones, of no interest.]
Returning to Lhaksar, the line con-
tinues N.W. to
11 m. Boork00 sta., D.B. (see p. 237).
38 m. Saharanpore sta. (see p. 194).
There is a good carriage road from
here to Dehra Dun (42 m.) ; 6 m.
farther at Rajpore, 3^ at the foot of the
hills, the carnage must be abandoned
for jhampan, dandv, or pony. An
ascent of about 4 m. brings the traveller
to Mussoorie.
There are D. Bs. at the following places
en route : 16 m. Futtehpore ; 28 m.
Mohun ; 35 m. Assaroree ; 42 m. Dehra
Dun; 48 m. Rajpore. The journey
from Saharanpore to Mussoorie occupies
13 hrs.
Dehra Don (or Doon) D.B., is the
capital of the Dehra Dun district.
Dehra itself (19,000 inhab.) is prettily
situated in the midst of a mountain
valley, 2300 ft. above sea-level. It was
founded by Guru Ram Rai, who settled
in the Dun at the end of the 17th
century. His temple, in the style of
the mausoleum of the Emperor Jehangir
at Shah Dera, forms the chief ornament
of the town. To the W. is the canton-
ment. There are an English church, a
mission of the American Presbyterian
Ohurch, and various chapels.
In the earliest ages of Hindu legend
Dehra Dun formed part of a region
known as Eedarkhand, the abode of
Shiva from whom also the Si^ralik
Hills are called. Here Rama and his
brother are said to have done penance
for killing Ravana, and here the five
Pandus stopped on their way to the
snowy range where they immolated
themselves. Authentic history knors
nothing of Dehra till the 17th cen-
tury. Ram Rai, who was driven from
the Panjab and the Guruship on account
of doubts as to his legitimacy, fourded
Dehra. In 1767 Najibu Daalih,
Governor of Saharanpore, occupied tie
Dun, but he died in 1770, when the
country was swept by various invaden
Last of all came the Gurkhas, witb
whom the British went to war in
November 1814. At the end of 1815
the Gurkhas ceded the country to the
British, who had easily occupied
Dehra, and taken the strong niQ
fortress of Ealanga after a gallant
defence, in which Sir Rolo Gillespie,
a gallant soldier who suppressed the
mutiny at Vellore, was kuled. There
is a monument to the slain a short
distance from Dehra. Those of the
garrison who survived entered the
service of Ranjit, and died to a man
in battle with the Afghans. It is prob-
able that the inhabitants have trebled
since the introduction of British mle.
The climate of Dehra is excellent.
The approach to Mussoorie from Dehra
is by Bajporeif. (6 ul), a large native
village, and at an elevation of abont
3000 ft. The road from Rajpore to
Mussoorie is very steep.
About half-way up is Jarapani,
a halting-place where there is water
and a bazaar ; and here, at an eleva-
tion of 5000 ft, are the first houses of
the European residents.
4 m. HuBBOori0,a^ a hill station,
and LcmdouVf the adjacent Convalescent
Dep6t for British troops, are situated
upon one of the outer ranges of the
Himalayas, which lie to the if. of Dehra
Dun. The hill on which Mussoorie is
built rises from the plains in the form of
a horse-shoe, gradually ascending to the
centre, and enclosing in the hollow a
number of ridges which lose themselves
in the mass above. Ridges also ran
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Ja}m.b<u-tiio1amaw& Co.. Kcibx
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ROUTE 18. DELHI TO ALLAHABAD
257
down from the back of a hill to a
valley in which flows a tributary of
the Jumna; between the ridges N.
and S. are deep wooded gorges. The
greater number of the houses are built
at an elevation of from 6000 to 7200
ft , mainly on the S. side of the hill.
The view from Mussoorie over the
▼alley of the Dun and across the Siwalik
Hills to the plains is very beautiful, as
also is the view towards the N., which
is bounded by the peaks of the snowy
range. The hills, on the side nearest
the plains exposed to the prevailing
winds, are nearly bare, and the visitor
misses the pine and deodar forests
which form so beautiful a feature at
Simla and other Himalayan sta-
tions.
To the N., however, not far below
the ridge, trees are plentiful. They
are principally oak, rhododendron, and
fir. In sheltered places apricots,
apples, pears, and cnerries flourish,
together with many English annual
and perennial plants. The climate is
delightful. Towards the end of Novem-
ber snow falls, and from time to time
during the succeeding three months.
Landourif- is a little to the S.E. of
Mussoorie, connected with it by a
narrow spur from 20 to 30 yds. in
breadth, with a sheer precipice of from
80 to 100 ft. on either side. It is 200
yds. long, and rises rather abruptly to
the Landour hill, the highest point of
which is about 900 ft. above the average
of t'he Mussoorie ridge.
The houses and barracks at Landour
are built upon the ascending slope of
the spur, and upon the precipitous
slopes of the ridge. The barracks face
the S. The very limited area of Lan-
dour is no small disadvantage.
Slight attacks of fever occur both at
Mussoorie and Landour, but very
serious cases of jungle fever happen to
Europeans who venture on shooting
expeditions into the valleys. There
is a permanent Anglo-Indian popu-
lation at Landour and Mussoorie,
and a large influx of visitors during
the hot season. English and Roman
Catholic churches exist at both places,
with numerous schools and boarding-
houses, and at Mussoorie a public
library, masonic lodge, club, brewery,
and three banks.
There is a good road to Simla via
Chakrata. The accommodation on the
way is scant. Tents, food, and servants
should be taken. The places on the
road are as follows : —
15 m, Lakwar, D. B.
11 m. Nainghatf D.B.
21 m. Chakrata, D.B., a military
hill -station 7000 ft. above the sea in
the centre of the district of Dhera
Dun called Jaunsar Bawar. It is 77
m. from Saharanpore, with which it
is connected by a cart-road. This
station was founded in May 1866.
There are lines for a European regiment,
and a native town has gathered round
the cantonment. Large game shooting
can be had by those who can climb.
15 m. Kanipanif Forest Bungalow.
21 m. Maindroitj water and good
camping-ground ; 9 m. MundcUj D.B. ;
12 m. PeorUreey water and few supplies.
10 m. CJiepal, water and few supplies.
Cross Pationalla mt. (9368 ft.), 23 m.
Synjt water and supplies ; 8 m. FegUy
D.B. ; 12 m. Simla (see Rte. 11).
ROUTE 18
Delhi to Tundla Junc. for Agra,
Cawnpore, and Allahabad, by
THE East Indian Railway.
From Delhi 12 m. Ghaziabad junc.
sta. From here the North - Western
Railway runs N". to Meerut, Umballa,
and Peshawar (see Rte. 11a).
78 m. ALIGARH junc. sta. (R.), D.B.,
between the civil sta. and the city. A
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258
ROUTE 18. DELHI tO ALLAHABAD
India
line from here rans N. E. to tlie Oudli
and Rohilcund main line.
AUgarhj "the high fort," is the name
of the considerable fortress which ad-
joins and protects the town of Kol or
Koil situated in the well -cultivated
plain between the Jamna and Ganges.
This town (60,400 inhab.) is of un-
tloubtedly great antiquity, and Bud-
dhist remains have been found in
excavating the eminence on which
the citadel of Koil stood. Authentic
history commences with the Moham-
medan historians. Hasan Nizami
writes that in 1 194 Kutbu-din marched
from Delhi to Koil, " which is one of
the most celebrated fortresses of Hind."
In 1262 A.D. Ghiyasu-din Balban was
governor of Koil. He set up a great
minaret, which was inscribed with the
name which he had before he ascended
the throne — "Bahau-din Shamsi," and
dated 1254 A.D. In 1862 this pillar,
by an extraordinary act of vandalism,
was pulled down.
Ibn Batuta mentions Koil in his
account of his embassy from Delhi to
China, 1342 a.d. He calls it a fine
town surrounded by mango groves. In
the 15th century Koil became the scene
of many a battle between the armies
of Jaunpur and Delhi. An inscription
in the fort of Koil records its construc-
tion during the reign of Ibrahim Lodi.
1524 A.D. In 1759 a.d. the Afghans,
under Ahmad Shah, expelled the Jats
from Koil. About 1776 a.d. Najaf
Khan repaired the fort of Ramgarh,
and changed its name to Aligarh.
About 1785 Maharajah Sindia captured
Aligarh, in which he found treasure in
specie and jewels amounting to a kror
of rs. In 1788 Aligarh was taken by
Ghulam Kadir Khan, and retaken by
Sindia, and here, with the aid of De
Boigne, that prince organised those
battalions after the European fashion
which did such good service on many
a hard-fought field. In 1 7 96 De Boigne
was succeeded by Perron.
In 1803 the British declared war
against Sindia, Perron took refuge with
the British, and Aligarh was stormed
and taken after a stout resistance.
When the news of the mutiny at
Meerut arrived, on the 12th of Ma)',
Aligarh was gaiTisoned by 300 Sepoys
of the 9th N.I., who mutinied on the
19th. On the 28th Lieut. Greathed
reached Aligarh, with 40 volunteer
horsemen, and information being re-
ceived that Rao Bhupal Sing, a Chauitn,
had proclaimed a Kajput govemmtot
at Khair, 14 m. W. of Aligarh, the
volunteers went there, and Mr. Watwu,
with a few of them, rode straight
through the town to the Tahsildar's
office, captured Bhupal Sing and 16 of
his followers, and hanged him on the
spot Up to the 21st of June tie
volunteers held their ground it
Aligarh, but the Lieut. -Governor i
Agra then recalled most of them.
The remaining few moved to Mandrak
7 m. from Aligarh, on the Agra Road,
and occupied the deserted factory there.
On the 2d of July the volunteers were
surrounded, but mounted and charged
and dispersed the mob. They were,
however, soon after obliged to retire to
Agra. On the 5th of (Xitober Colonel
Greathed's column occupied Koil.
At the 3d milestone S. of Aligarh on
the Agra Road is a F^c^ls religiosa of
enormous girth, and 100 yds. from it
on the left of the road is a garden, in
which a body of Ghazis concealed them-
selves during the rebellion, and rushed
out on a detachment of our troops,
inflicting much loss before they were
despatched. A few yds. beyond the
milestone stands a Maltese cross.
The Civil Station is admirably kept
and well planted with fine trees. On
one side of a large central space are
private residences and the Post Office,
and on the other, the Public Offices, Law
Courts, Zil'a School, the cemetery, and
the Aligarh Institiite^ founded in 1864
by the well-known Saiyad Ahmad Khan,
K. C. S. I. , LL. D. The Library contains
more than 2000 volumes, and the
reading-room is furnished with the
leading English and vernacular papers.
The Institute has a printing press and
a newspaper of its own, called the Ali-
garh Institute Ckizette. The Lyall
Library was founded by the Hindus of
Aligarh, and is built in the modem
Saracenic style. The old cemetery of
1802 lies towards the Fort.
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ROUTE 18« AtitaARfi
U^
The ol^ect of chief interest at Aligarh
18 the Anglo-Oriental College (about
Im. from the rly. sta.), for the educa-
tion of Mohammedans of the upper
class. It owes its foundation to the
patriotism and energy of Sir Saiyad
Ihmad Ehan, already mentioned, who
personally superintended its construc-
tion and organisation. The building
is on the plan of an Oxford or Cambridge
college, and is surrounded by grounds
coveringabout lOOacres. It was opened
in 1875, and has since made rapid pro-
gress. It consists of 2 departments, a
college and a school ; and its inmates,
some 200 boys and 80 young men, come
from all parts of India. The subjects
taught are English, Sanscrit, Arabic,
Persian, history, and mathematics.
The Principal and 2 Professors are Eng-
lish university men, and the Headmaster
of the school is also an Englishman.
It is governed by a body of Moham-
medan trustees, and is in no way con-
nected with the state ; and unliKe the
Government colleges, which are unsec-
tarian, here the Mohammedan religion
is taught. Considerable prominence
is given to the encouragement of manly
sports ; and altogether the institution
marks a new departure in the methods
of Indian education.
The Fort of Aligarh, 2 m. N. of the
town of Koil, originally built in 1524,
was reconstructed by French engineers
in the 18th century. It is surrounded
by a ditch 18 ft. deep and from 80 ft.
to 100 ft. wide. The Fort is an oblong
in plan, with an inside area of about
20 acres. At the N.W. angle there
are bomb-proof magazines. There is
no garrison. The main entrance to the
Fort is on the N. There were barracks
in the Fort, but they have been pulled
down. Perron's house is J m. to the S.
of the Fort.
Between the College and the Fort is
the House or Tower (^Perron, a French
officer in the service of Sindia 1796-
1803. It has a square gateway in front,
with an arched entrance and a guard-
room above it. In the garden is a
well with a Persian inscription.
The Jail is 1 m. S. of Perron's house.
Outside the S. angle is a monument to
the memory of officeir who fell in the
assault of Aligarh and in the Battle of
Laswari in 1808.
In the City of Koil (pop. 62,000), at
the top of a long and rather steep slope,
is the principal mos(][ue, with three
central domes, two side domes, and
four minarets. It was built by Sabit
Khan in 1728 during the reign of Mu-
hammad Shah. The architecture is in
the debased style of the last century,
yet the mosque is by no means without
beauty and even dignity. The emin-
ence on which it stands is called the
Bala Kilah, and in it have been dis-
covered remains of Buddhist and Hindu
temples, some of which have been
placed in the compound of the Insti-
tute. The domes are of brick, the rest
of the building is of blocked kankar
and red sandstone, and the pinnacles
are gilt. The mosque is not in good
repair.
S.E. of the great mosque is the MoH
Mtc^id, or "Pearl Mosque." In the
city is a fine tank surrounded by small
Hindu temples and shrouded by magni-
ficent trees swarming with monkeys.
There are nearly 100 Imambarahs in
the town. The tomb of Gisu Khan is
the most beautiful. It is an open-
pillared chattri, and is close to the
Idgah. About J m. "W. of the chief
mosque is a curious group of tombs.
The central one is called the Shrine of
Shah Jamal, who is said to have lived
before Koil was taken by *Alau-din
Ghori.
On the occasion of the Aligarh
annual Fair (held early in Feb.) a
small temporary town is constructed
of bamboo, and surroianded by hundreds
of tents. Shopkeepers bring the best
Indian art ware and fabrics from all
parts of the country for sale and ex-
hibition. A horse fair is held at the
same time, and an exhibition of agri-
cultural implements and produce.
There are also horse-races, wrestling-
matches, and other entertainments, in
which the English residents as well as
the natives take part. The occasion
offers an unrivalled opportunity for
witnessing the inner life of an Indian
district
97 m. Hathras junc. sta.r The East
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260
ROUTC 18. DSLHI TO ALLAHABAD
IM4
IndiAn Railwaj ii here crossed by the
Cawnpore- Aohnera line of the Bombay,
Baroda, and Central India Railway.
From this junction MuUra and Bin-
drahan (Rte. 10) may easily be visited.
The thriving town of Hathras is 6
m. from the sta. It possesses a large
tank and a municipal building for the
benefit of officers on tour.
127 m. Tundla June (R. ) A line from
here runs W. into Agra (p. 167), dis-
tant 15 m.
184 ra. Etawah sta.3«c (R.), D.B.,
properly Itaxoah, from Int^ "a brick"
(35,000 inhabitants), has been the
iie^dquarters of the district of the same
name since 1856, before which Patiala
and Sirhpura held the place succes-
sively, it is said to have been founded
about five centuries ago by Sangram
Sing, a Chaidian chief, descended from
the famous Frithi Raj, King of
Delhi.
The CUy stands picturesquely
amongst a network of ravines on the
N. bank of the Jumna, at a point
where it bends sharply backwards on its
own course, and between the river and
the rly. It is divided into two parts,
a ravine from N.W. to S.E. separating
the old city on the S. from tne new.
The roads from Mainpuri unite outside
the new city to the N.W. and form
the BazaaVj which in the centre is
cut at right angles by the main road
from Farrukhabad to Gwalior that
traverses Etawah from N.E. to S.W.
In the centre of the city is Huttu Chinj^
a public square where the com and
cotton-markets are held ; and adjoining
it is a Sarai with a fine gateway. Half
a mile of broken country extends
between the city and the river to the
S. On the W. is a barren plain with
wildly rugged ravines, and i m. to the
N. lies the Civil Station^ with church,
public garden, racket court, etc ; it is
well planted with trees, and there is a
belt of dark woods on the N. and E.
sides. In a grove to the "W. is the
AatJiala, an important Hindu temple of
the last century.
The Jumma Musjid, on high ground
the rt. of the Gwalior Road going
towards the Jumna, is an old Buddhist
temple, altered by the Mohammedani
about 1430 A.D. According to Mr.
Hume, it dates from the 5th century
A.D. (see A$. Soe, Joum. vol. xxit.)
The screen, 47 ft. high, before the dome
is similar to that of the Atala ind
Jumma Muejids of Jaunpur. The fa^tde
is 180 ft. long, but only 20 ft. deep.
The main portion is of block kankar,
with fragments of blue-stoue in ths
walls, and with portions of ten granite
columns. There are also plain pillin
of light and red sandstone ; some ban
been cut in two, and used for variov
purposes.
1 m. from the mosque the ruins (rf
the Fortt built by Samarsi about 1120
A.D., stand on an eminence about 100
ft above the river. A comparatively
modem and plain building^the Barah*
dari — crowns the hill, and commands
a fine view over the Jumna to the S.
The S. face of the fort is the most per-
fect, with a bastion 83 ft. high, and
another 24J ft. The Dutch traveller
Johannes de Laet, in 1631, says: "It
is surrounded by a double walL On
its gate a human face is sculptured,
which the Indians regard with awe,
and worship it by anointing it profusely
with oil." The remains of the gate
are still to be seen on the side of the
hill. The well in it is 120 ft deep.
The fort was destroyed by order of
Shuia'u Daulah.
The Bathing Ghats on the Jumna
just below the fort and alons the banks
are picturesque and worth a visit
From them will be seen the conspicuous
white spire of a modern Jain temple.
271 m. CAWNPORB ^unc sta,*
The junction of four railways— East
Indian ; Cawnpore Achnera ; Cawn-
pore Lucknow ; Indian Midland. Com-
fortable and convenient waiting-rooms,
iiu\ carriasces easily obtained.
The City (pop. 182,000) is situated
on the right bank of the Ganges ; old
Cawnpore is 2 m. to the N.W. of the
present city. The name means City
of Eanh or Krishna; Kanh meaning
"husband." It is a ffreat eroporiun
for harness, shoes, ana other leather-
work. The sole interest attaching to
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ROUTE 18. CAWNPORE
261
tie place arises from the frightful
nassacres of the Mutiny.
The Mutiny.*
The cautonment at the time of the
Mutiny straggled for 6 or 7 m., and
though containing an usually large
non-combatant population, was impru-
dently garrisoned with about 3000
Indian soldiers and only 60 Europeans.
The Nana Sahib, the adopted son of
Baji Rao Peshwa, whose claims to suc-
ceed to the large pension enjoyed by
the ex- Peshwa had been ignored by the
British Goyemment, was living near
at Bithur, on friendly terms with the
English at Cawnpore.
Sir Hugh Wheeler, a gallant veteran,
the general commanding the division
in the spring of 1857, doubting the
fidelity of the Sepoys, resolved to store
with provisions one spot which should
be a rallying point for those under his
charge. The natural position to select
was the magazine in the N.W. corner
of the military lines, which rested on
the river, and was surrounded by
strong walls. But Wheeler decided
against it, as he would have to with-
draw the Sepoy guard, and feared that
by showing his mistrust he would
hasten the rising. The spot he chose
was the centre of a plain where there
were two barracks. Here he raised
some earthworks about 4 ft. high, the
ground being so hard that it was almost
impossible to dig it, and so friable, that
when dog, it would not cohere. He
applied to Sir H. Lawrence for rein-
forcements, which were generously sent
under Lieut. Ashe, and with Captain
Fletcher Hayes, military secretary, a
man of rare courage and capacity.
Wheeler, much against advice, asked
Nana to lend a body of his own retainers
for the defence of the Treasury and the
Magazine. The same day (22d May) all
the non-combatants betook themselves
to the miserable entrenchment, which
the worst rider on the worst horse could
have jumped over. On the 8d June
Wheeler most unselfishly despatched
1 For a gmpbio aeeount of the aiege of
Gftwnpore, the traveller cannot do better than
«tndy T. B. E. Holmea's Hitlwy of the Indian
HvHny, Allen and Co.
reinforcements to Lucknow, knowing
that, in case of attack, his own position
was not defensible.
On the night of the 4th of June the
2d Cavalry rose and galloped off to
Nawabganj, where the treasure was.
The Ist Regiment N.L followed them,
and burned and plundered as they
went. They sacked the Treasury,
threw open the Jail, burned the Public
Offices and the Records, and captured
the Magazine with all its ammunition
and artillery, with which they prepared
to march to Delhi. The 53d and 56th
eventually joined them, all but 80 men,
who remained faithful to the end of their
lives. The whole body of mutineers
then started on the march to Delhi,
but were persuaded by Nana's emissary
to return, and on 6th June Wheeler
was warned by the Nana to expect an
attack; and by noon the siege of
Cawnpore had begun.
Never had a besieged garrison been
called upon to do greater things than
this little body of about 800 English
soldiers, hampered by every disadvan-
tage and exposed to the continuous fire
of 3000 trained soldiers, well fed,
lodged, and armed. The total number
in the entrenchment is estimated at
1000, of whom more than half were
women and children. There were
heroes in this little band of whom any
nation would be proud. To Captain
Moore of the 32d has by common
consent been assigned the first place in
these ranks. There was only one well
within the entrenchment, reached by
passing over the most exposed portion
of the position. Before long provisions
were scarce, and the barracks contain-
ing stores and surgical instruments
caught fire on 13th June. From the
first day the casualties were consider-
able and at dead of night the bodies
were carried to a well outside the en-
closure and let down. Over 250 were
disposed of in this way in three weeks.
On the 23d of June the enemy made
a general attack, but were repulsed at
all points. On the 25th a slip of paper
was brought by a woman into the
entrenchments offering a safe passage to
Allahabad to all not ** connected with
the acts of Lord Dalhousie." On the
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262
ROUTE 18. DELHI TO ALLAHABAD
India
26tb there was an armistice, and it was
proposed that the British should sur-
render their fortified position, their
guns, and treasure, and should march
out with their arms, and 60 rounds of
ammunition for each man. The Nana
would give them safe conduct to the
river -side, and supply boats to take
them down the Ganges. This was
agreed to, and next morning, 27th
June, the survivors, about 450 in num-
ber, marched down to the Sati Chaura
Ghat, and got into the boats. It was
9 A.M. before they were embarked, and
then a bugle sounded, the native boat-
men left the boats fixed in the mud,
and a murderous fire of grape-shot and
musketry opened upon the wretched
passengers, who had thus been brought
to the shambles. The thatch of the
boats took fire, and the sick and
wounded were burned, while the Sepoys
jumped into the water and butchered
the rest. Orders then came from the
Nana to kill no more women, and
about 125 women, wounded and half-
drowned, were then carried back to
Cawnpore.
One boat drifted down the river.
Those on board propelled it as they
could, but their numoers were rapidly
diminished by the fire from the banks.
For 36 hours they floated down stream
pursued and attacked by the enemy on
all sides. On the second morning they
woke tu find themselves in a side stream
with Sepoys on the banks ready to over-
whelm them. Two oflScers and 11
soldiers gallantly leapt ashore and dis-
persed the astounded crowd. But the
boat had drifted down stream out of
sight and was lost to them. Four of
these men — Mowbray Thomson, Dela-
fosse, Privates Murphy and Sullivan
— ^being strong swimmers, reached the
Oudh shore, and alone lived to tell the
story of Cawnpore. The boat was sub-
sequently overtaken by the enemy and
brought back. The men were then by
order of the Nana all shot, and the
women and children sent to join the 125
who had been spared at the Massacre
Ghat. They were afterwards removed
to a small house called Bibi-garh,
''<)re, between the 7th and Hth. of
, 28 died.
But retribution was at hand. On
the 7th of July Gen. Havelock
marched from Allahabad with 14O0
British and 600 Sikhs. On the 12tli of
July at 7 A.M. they halted at Belindih,
4 m. from Fatehpur. Here they were
attacked by the Nana's army, hut it
suffereda crushingdefeat, and Fatehpur,
where great atrocities had been com-
mitted by the rebels, was sacked by
Havelock's men. On the 15th of July
Havelock again defeated the rebels and
drove them over the bridge across the I
Pandunadi. The Nana was living
riotously in a palace over the prison,
and learning that Havelock was ad-
vancing upon him, issued an order te
massacre the women and children in
the Bibi-garh. The few men among
the prisoners were brought out and
killed in his presence. A party of
Sepoys were then ordered to snoot the
women, but they intentionally missed
their aim. Then a party of butchers
were sent in with swords and long
knives. Soon the shrieks ceased, hut
groans continued all through the night
In the morning the dead and dying,
and a few children almost unhurt,
were pitched into an adjoining welL
The Nana then went out to oppose
Havelock with 5000 men and a formid-
able train of artillery, but the battle
(16th of July) ended in the confosed
flight of the rebels. On the I7th Have-
lock marched on to occupy the canton-
ment, but ere he reached it he learned
the mournful story of the massacres.
Four months later Cawnpore was
the scene, once more, of bloody engage-
ments. Sir Colin Campbell marched
thence on the 9th of November 1857
to relieve Lucknow, leaving behind him
for the protection of CawniK>re, his base
of operations, 500 British and 500
Madras troops, commanded by Major-
Gen. Windham, of Redan celebrity.
On the 27th of November Sir Colin
began his march back to Cawnpore,
having with him 2000 women, ehildren,
sick, and wounded, and the treasure
which had been rescued from Lucknow.
On nearing the Bridge of Boats, on the
28th, Sir Colin saw a conflagration,
which proved that the enemy had
taken the city of Cawnpore,
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ROUTE 18. RIGHTS OP CAWNPORE
203
Tantia Topi, at the head of the
Gwalior insurgents, about 15,000 men,
lad inarched on Cawnpore, and by
veil -concerted movements, completed
•n the 19th of November, had cut off
Cawnpore from all communication with
the W. and N.W., from which its sup-
plies had been obtained.^ On the 26th
Windham moved out from Cawnpore,
attacked and repulsed Tantia's right
wing. But on the two following dSys
he was gradually driven back to his
entrenchment on the river side, leaving
the bridge — ^the link with Lucknow
— dangerously exposed. Sir Colin
arrived just in time to save the bridge,
but the clothing and stores prepared
for the refugees from Lucknow fell
into the hands of the rebels. Having
despatched his convoy of ladies and
wounded to Allahabad, Sir Colin on
December 6th took the initiative. His
arrangements for the battle were most
skilful and completely successful ; the
Gwalior camp, with all its stores and
laagazines, was taken, and the enemy
routed with gi*eat slaughter.
Objects of Interest.
On the way from the rly. sta. to
the Memorial Church an enclosure is
passed containing some interesting
monuments and heartrending inscrip-
tions.
The Memorial Church is built in the
Komanesque style, it cost over £20,000,
and was consecrated in 1875. It adjoins
the site of General Wheeler's entrench-
ment, and contains a series of inscrip-
tions to those who fell near here in the
Mutiny. The best view of Cawnjiore
is obtained from the belfry. To the
S."W. is seen among the trees the Savada
K#thi, where the fugitives from Fateh-
garh were killed by the Nana's order.
To the W. is the Railway Station ; to
the N. of it the Government Steam
Flour Mills ; N. of these, again, is the
city, marked bynumerous white pagodas
and minarets in this direction ; and
N.W. of the church is Christchurch,
the church of the Civil lines ; due N.
is the Memorial School, not far from the
bank of the Ganges ; and in the same
1 For graphic accounts of this period se^
^010 1 won the Victoria Oo»s,— Kavanagh.
direction, but nearer, is the Methodist
Ciiui-ch. N.E., about 250 yds. from
the Memorial Church, is the old church,
a small ugly building, and S. E. of it are
the Artillery Lines ; the N. I. Lines are
due S. of the church. Outside the
Church IB a railed memorial slab with
an inscription commemorating "those
who were the fii*st to meet their death,"
June 1857. A few yards from the porch
of the Church is another enclosure with
a cross marking where
" Lie the remains of
Major Edward Vibart,
2d Regt. Light Cavalry,
And about 70 officers and soldiers,
Who, after escaping from the
Massacre at Cawnpore,
On the 27th of June 1857,
Were captured by the rebels at Shivrajpur,
And murdered on the 1st of July."
Beyond this, on the S. of the Church,
is the site of the Entrenchment where
Wheeler with his small band of soldiers
and the European and Eurasian resi-
dents for 21 (lays were exposed to the
cruel fire of Nana's troops. It is a mere
bare field, and within the enclosure is the
well where so many women and children
were shot whilst getting water. A few
yards N. stood two buildings ; one of
them was the hospital of Wheeler's
force, and both were exposed to a merci-
less fire from all sides. Nearer to the
modern barracks is the enclosure sur-
rounding the well in which 250 of the
garrison were buried. The inscription
on the cross runs : — In a well under
this Cross were laid by the hands of their
fellows in sufferiiigj the bodies of men,
uxmien, and diildren, who died hard by
during the heroic defence of Wheeler's
Entrenchmeiit when beleagured by the
rebel Nana, — June 6th to 27thf ad.
MDCCCLVII.
The Massacre Ghat is about J m. N.
by E. of the church. A grassy road
between banks 10 ft. or 12 ft. high
lined with trees, among which the
murderers concealed themselves, leads
down to the river. On the bank is a
temple to Shiva, of hexagonal shape,
old and going to ruin. Steps lead
from this temple to an enclosed flight
of steps, which in the cold season
descend to the water, but in the rains
are covered almost to the top. 1 m,
d by Google
264
ROUTE 19. CALCUTTA TO GAUR AND LUCKEESERAI India
up the stream is the fine biidge of the
Oudh and Rohilcund Railway. Close
to this was the pontoon, or Boat
Bridge, over which the convoy, 3 m.
long, of women and wounded, brought
from Lucknow by Sir Colin, passed ;
and here was Windham's small en-
trenched camp.
Christchwrchy close to the Bank of
Bengal, is the Civil Station church,
and has no pretentions to architectural
beauty. It contains tablets to persons
killed in the Mutiny.
The Memorial Well arid Gardens are
about a furlong to the E. of Christ-
church. They extend over 30 acres,
prettily laid out, and over the fatal
well a mound has been raised, which
slopes upwards until it is crowned by
a handsome octagonal Gothic screen
designed by the late Sir Henry Yule,
R.E., O.B. In the centre of the en-
closure, on the actual well, containiDg
the bodies of some 200 victims, is the
figure of the Angel of the Besurrection
in white marble, by Marochetti, with
arms crossed on her breast, as if resigned
to the Almighty Will, each hand hold-
ing a palm, the emblem of peace. Over
the arch is inscribed, '* These are thev
which came out of great tribulation.
Around the wall which marks the
circle of the well is: *^ Sacred to the
perpetual Memory of a greai company of
Christian people, chiefly WoTnen arid
Children, who near this spot were cruelly
murdered by the followers of the rebel
Nana Dhumdu Pomt, of BUhur, and
cast, the dying vnth the dead, Mo the
well below, on the xvth day of July,
MDCCCLVIL" Close to the menu-
ment is a small enclosed cemetery, filled
with bright flowers and shrubs. Two
of the tombs are to the memory of the
women and children of the 1st Com-
pany, 6th Battery, Bengal Artillery,
and those of H.M.'s 32d Regiment,
who were slaughtered near this spot,
ISthof July 1867.
390 m.
p. 86).
Allahabad junc. sta. (see
ROUTE 19.
Calcutta by the East Indian
Railway loop line to Azimganj,
MUESHEDABAD, AND BeRHAMPUK,
AND TO MaLDAH, GaUR, AMD
PaNDUAH, REJOINING THE MAIN
LINE AT LuCKEESERAI.
From the Howrah sta, Calcutta it is
75 m. to Khana junc. (see p. 51).
Here the loop line branches off N. to
145 m. Nalhati junc. sta.
[Here it is necessary to change agaii
leaviDg the loop line and branching R
along the Nalhati State Rly. to
27 m. Azimganj sta., on the rt. bank
of the Bhagirathi river, opposite Mur-
shedabad. This is a clean, well-kept
town, inhabited by Jain merchants,
who came originally from Ajmere 200
years ago, andnave built several hand-
some temples. The Bhagirathi is here
700 ft. broad, and rises in the rains 25
ft., when the current runs 7 m. an hour.
To reach Murshedabad it is necessary
to cross this river by a ferry. On the
farther (E.) side there is a metalled
road which passes through straggling
bazaars, ana past some fine houses
belonging to the leading Kyans, for 5
m, to
Murshedabad (pop. 39,000) on the
1. bank of the Bhagirathi, chief city of
the district of the same name, is the
residence of the Nawab of Bengal, and
is called after the CTeat Nawab IMurshed
Euli Ehan, though originally the name
was Maksudabad. It was a prosperous
place in the last century, and owed
much of its wealth to its being upon
the line of trade from the interior of
Asia to the European settlements on
the Hooghly.
Though the population is decreasing,
a good many wealthy Jain merchants
may yet be found here, who deal in
carved ivory — a speciality of the place,
— embroideries, musical instruments,
etc.
The Baft Festival is still celebrated
here, in honour of Ehwaja Ehizr (the
prophet Elias). On certain nights
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 19. MURSHEDABAD
265
diriug the rainy season thousands of
little rafts, each bearing one or two
sweetmeats and each carrying a lighted
lamp, are set afloat down the stream.
At the same time there is a great dis-
pliy of fireworks from a huge raft
MariTig a mock fortress npon it.
Numerous brick buildings stand
alon^ the banks of the river, some with
^irdens, and all in a dense jungle of
KLinboos and other trees, which com-
pletely hide the dwellings below when
»eeu from the roof of the palace, — the
best place for a view in the neighbour-
hood.
The chief object of interest is the
Palace of the Nawdb^ which with the
surrounding buildings enclosed by a
wall goes by the name of the Nizamat
KUa. It is situated on the river-bank,
about the centre of the town, and is in
the Italian style, somewhat resembling
Government House at Calcutta, and was
built in 1837 at a cost of £167,000.
The architect was General Macleod of
the Beng. £ng. It faces N., and is 80
ft high. In the entrance room is a
picture of the Nawab Kazim and
General Macleod. There is a circular
Darbar-room, and a Banqueting -room
290 ft. long, with a picture of the burial
of Sir John Moore, by Marshall, at the
W, end. The Armoury is quite worthy
of a Tisit, and the jewels are remarkably
fine. In the Library are some very
rare MSS. Altogether the palace is a
fine modern bunding, and there are
good views from it over the river and
surroundings.
The ZenaTia is to rt. of the main
entrance at the back of the palace.
In the same enclosure with the
palace is the Imambarah or house of
prayer, built 1847.
Just outside the city S.E. is the
KvMara (or Kutra) containing the
Tomb of Mnrshid Kuli Khan. It was
constructed on the model of the Great
Mosque at Mecca, has 2 minarets 70
ft. high, but is now in ruins.
Near this, and 60 yds. from the road,
is the ChrecU Ghin, the sister gun to that
at Dacca. It is 17^ ft Ion?, with a
girth of 5 ft. at the breech. The calibre
u 6 in. This cannon, which had been
Iflfl lying on the ground for many years,
has been lifted up 5 ft. in the air by a
vast tree which has grown up ftom a
seedling beneath it. The inscription
is in rersian, with the date 1687.
S.W. of it and 2 m. S. of the city
is
The Motyhilf or Pearl Lake, a beauti-
ful spot ; but hardly a relic remains of
its former splendour, when it was sur-
rounded by palaces. It contains a good
many alligators.
The Khush Baghy "Garden of
Happiness," the old cemetery of the
Kawabs, is opposite to the Mot^hil on
the rt. bank of the river. It consists
of 3 walled enclosures. The entrance to
the outer one, planted with flowers
and shady trees, is from the E., close
to where some rained ghats stretch
down to the deserted bed of the Bhagi-
rathi, which now flows in another
channel. In the central enclosure are
the tombs of the good Nawab Ali Vardi
Khan and his grandson Siraiu Daulah.
They are almost level with the ground,
and are covered with chadars of gold
embroidery. The third enclosure con-
tains a tank and Muzafifar Khana. The
Boshan B<Mh is also a cemetery and
well-shaded garden.
The Nizamat College is exclusively
for relatives of the Nawab.
The Cemetery of J* afar Ownj, about
1 m. to the N. of the palace of Mursheda-
bad, is that of tne Nawabs Nazim
appointed by the English ; it differs in
some respects from all others of the
kind in India. Opposite the gate, and
on the farther side of the road, is a
handsome mosque. The person in
charge of the cemetery, which covers
several aicres, has a plan which shows
all the tombs. These are very well
kept, and almost every inch of ground
is occupied. The fartnest tomb at the
E. end is that of Gauharu-nisa Begam,
who was the daughter of Nasiru'l mulk.
There are seventy-seven Karis or Scrip-
ture-readers at this cemetery, who read
the Koran in three portions, so that
every third day the whole Koran is
read through.
Murshedabad district is noted for its
sUk industry. The villacers rear the
silkworm at home, and sell the cocoons
to the spinners, who export it. Sjlk-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
266
ROUTE 19. CALCUTTA TO GAUR AND LUCKEESERAI
ludia
cloth and handkerchiefs are woven
here on hand-looms.
The principal Indigo Factories in the
district are at Akraganj, Patkaburi, and
Dumkol.
There is still Pig-stickiiig to be had
in the district.
The Nawab's Stables for elephants
and horses are on the road to Berham-
pur, 5 m. below Murshedabad on the
1. bank of the river.
At 3 m. S. of Murshedabad, 1. of the
road, is a magnificent avenne of deodar
trees, extending from 2 to 3 m. This
avenue leads to Maidapur, the old
civil station, now abandoned.
Berhampur, D.B., is a town of
23,000 inhabitants, and is the civil
headquarters of the district. After
the battle of Plassey, as the factory-
house at Kasim Bazar, where Warren
Hastings rested, had been destroyed by
Siraju Daulah, Berhampur was chosen
as a healthy site for
The Barracks, which cost £302,270
to build. The cantonments of Berham-
pur will always be notorious as the
scene of the first overt act of mutiny
in 1867.^ On the 25th of February the
19th £«gt. N. I. refused to receive
their ammunition, for which they were
marched down to Barrackpur and dis-
banded. The ^reat square formed by
the barracks is called Cantonment
Square or Barrack Square.
The New Cemetery is ^ m. to the
N.E. Here are said to be interred
(see Stat. Ace. of Beng. vol. ix. p. 77),
George Thomas, the famous Irish ad-
venturer, who made for himself a
principality in Rajputana, which he
failed to keep ; Creighton, the ex-
plorer of Gaur, and the hero of Mrs.
Sherwood's well-known tale Little
Henry and his Bearer.
There is an old English Cemetery at
Kasim Bazar, about 8 m. to the N.W.
of Barrack Square. In it are the tombs
of Warren Hastings's first wife (d.
1759) and daughter.
The Dutch Cemetery, which is ^ m. to
the W. of the English, contains 43
tombs, of which only four are in-
scribed.
I 3e^ Kaye's <Sepoy FTar,
Plassey, called from Palas, the 2h^^
frondosa tree, is 25 m. by road S. of
Kasim Bazar. It is a bad road, and
three relays of ponies are required to
make the journey. CUve's position is
marked by a mound close to the rirer,
on which he placed his guns, and h^ a
simple monument raised by the Bengal
Government. It appears from old
maps that at the time of the battle the
Bhagirathi flowed more to the ¥.,
where, in fact, an old channel ein be
clearly traced.]
The traveller must return throofjh
Murshedabad to Nalhati in order to
rejoin the rly. and continue along ^
loop line to
195 m. Tin Fahar junc. sta.
[A branch line runs N.E. (7 m.) to
202 m. Bajmahal sta., a sub-dis-
trict of the Santal Parganahs. The
town stands on the W. or right bank
of the Ganges. This place was once
the capital of Bengal, and has many
historical associations. The traveller
will here have an opportunity of seeing
the remarkable tribe of Santals.
Bajmahal up to 1592 A.D. was known
as Agmahal, but when Rajah Man Sing,
Akbar's famous Rajput general, re-
turned from the conquest of Orissa in
1592 A.D., he made it the seat of his
government, and changed its name to
Rajmahal. He also began to build a
palace and a Hindu temple, but the
report having spread that lie was build-
ing an idolatrous temple, to avoid the
^vrath of Akbar he turned it into i
mosque, and changed the name of the
town to Akbarnagar. In 1607 Islam
Khan transferred the seat of govern-
ment to Dacca, but it was again brought
to Rajmahal by Sultan Shuja in 1639.
In the beginning of the next century
Murshed Kuli Khan transferred the
government to Murshedabad, and Raj-
mahal fell into deca^. In 1863 the
Ganges abandoned its channel and
Rtgmahal was left 3 m. distant from the
main stream, only to be approached by
steamers during the rains, lliis much
accelerated the decay of the plane.
On the opposite side of the road from
d by Google
ROUTE 19. ENGLISH BAZAR GAUR
267
the station are the Collector's Office and
other public buildings. Not far from
th( rly. sta. are remains of a building
caledthe Sangi Datan, "hall of stone.
It is 100 ft. long from K to S., and
has three doors of black basalt in the
centre. This is said to have been part
of the palace of Sultan Shuja, son of
Jdiangir, and Governor of Behar.
The MaiTui Tank is J m. due W. of
tie Cxdckerry. At its S. end is a
aassive brick building, with an Arabic
inscription in the Tughra character;
and 100 yds. to the S. is the Maina
ilosque.
The Hadaf is 4 m. to the N.W.
The road leads through a forest of tall
trees, with ruined buildings at inter-
vals. At 1^ m. It passes a solid brick
huilduig on the right hand, called the
Taksal, or Mint, with walls 5i ft.
thick. The Hadaf ruins are about 200
yds. off the road to the left through a
thick low jungle. The entrance is by
theE. gateway, which is much injured.
The tiuveller then finds himself in a
quadrangle. The mosque proper has
a fa(;ade 200 ft. long, witn seven arches,
each 22 ft. high. In the centre of the
Quadrangle is a reservoir, with steps
down to the water. The whole is now
mnch ruined and covered with jungle.
The distance from Rajmahal to
English Bazar, the headquarters of
the Maldah district, is 24 m. There is
a steam ferry across the Ganges at
Rajmahal.
English Bazar^O^ (12,500 inhab.) is
situated on the rt. bank of the Mahan-
anda about 4 m. below Old Maldah,
from which the district takes its
name. The place is not frequented
by travellers, and arrangements for the
journey should be made by writing to
the magistrate at Maldah a week before-
hand. The distance from English
Bazar to Gaur is about 8 m. as the
crow flies, and to the Adina Mosque at
Panduah, 12 m.
Old Maldah is at the confluence of
the Kalindri with the Mahananda. It
is an admirable position for river- traffic,
and probably rose to prosperity as the
fK)rt of the Mohammedan capital of
Pftnd^ah. Puring the last century it
was the seat of thriving cotton and
silk manufactures, and the French and
Dutch had factories at it The English
factory, established in 1656, now-
ever, was always at English Bazar,
lower down the Mahananda, and on
the opposite bank of the river. The
pop. is 4700. The Golden Mosque at
Old Maldah is scarcely worth a visit.
The ruins of Gaur and Panduah, suc-
cessive capitals of Bengal, are interest-
ing only to the antiquarian. The sites
of these old cities are being rapidly
turned under the plough, and the dense
jungles which 30 years ago sheltered
tigers and leopards no longer exist.
Gaur was the metropolis of Bengal
under its Hindu kings. Its most
ancient name was Lakhnauti, a cor-
ruption of Lakshmanawati. But the
name of Gaur« also is of primeval an-
tiquity, as is found in the Guariya
Brahmaim. Its known history begins
with its conquest in 1204 a.d.^ by the
Mohammedans, who made it the chief
centre of their power in Bengal for
more than three centuries. When the
Afghan kings of Bengal became inde-
pendent, they made Pandnah their
capital, and for building pmposes they
robbed Gaur of all the material that
could be removed. This accounts for
the number of sculptured Hindu stones
amongst the ruins of Panduah. When
Panduah was in its turn deserted, Gaur
again became the capital, and was called
Jannatabad, "terrestrial paradise,"
which name occurs in theAin-i-Akbari.
Daud Khan was the last of the Afghan
kings, and his state was absorbed into
Akbar's empire in 1573 a.d.
The dimensions of the city proper,
within the great continuous embank-
ment, are 7 J m. from N. to S., and 1
to 2 m. broad. The W. side was washed
by the Ganges, which flowed where the
channel of the Little Bhagirathi now
is. The E. side was protected by the
Mahananda and by swamps. On the
S. the Mahananda joined the Ganges,
and left little space for an enemy to
encamp. On the N. a fortification 6
m. long extends in an irregular curve
1 Blochmann says 1198 a.d. ; Mr. Thomfm
1202 ; Ma^jor Baverty, 1194,
d by Google
268
ROUTE 19. CALCUTTA TO GAUR AND LUOKEESERAI
Mia
from the old channel of the Bhagirathi
at Sonatala to near the Mahananda
and Bholahat. This rampart is 100
ft. wide at base. At the N.E. part of
the curve is a gate, protected by a
strong outwork in the form of a quad-
rant, through which a high embanked
road passes N. and S. In this outwork
is the tomb of a Mohammedan saint.
Near the N.E. comer, at the confluence
of the Ealindri and the Mahananda,
are the ruins of a minar. N. of the
rampart are the remains of the palace of
Balal Sen, an early Hindu king.
Behind the rampart lay the N.
suburb of the city, in which is the most
celebrated piece of artificial water in
Bengal, the Sangar Digi, 1600 yds.
long by 800 broad. It dates from 1126
A.D. The water is still pure and sweet.
On the bank is the tomb of Makhdum
Shaik Akhi Siraju-di« and a small
mosque. Both buildings are endowed
and Kei>t in fair repair. W. of this
suburb is a g?uU called S'adu*llahpur
leading down to the sacred river ; and
S. of it lie the ruins of the city, defended
by a strong rampart and ditch. To-
wards the Mahananda the rampart is
double, and in most narts there have
been two immense ditches, and in places
three.
To the S., on the Bhadrathi, was
the Citadel f 1 m. long from N. to
S., and from 600 to 800 yds. broad.
The brick wall has been very strong,
with many flanking angles, and round
bastions at the comers. Outside the
N. entrance have been several fine
gates or triumphal arches. In the
S.E. comer of the citadel was the
palace, surrounded by a brick wall
66 ft. high, and 8 fL thick, with an
ornamented comice, — ^hence called the
** Boris Gaji" wall. A little N. of
the palace are remains of the royal
tombs, where Husain Shah and other
kings were buried. In the citadel are
two mosques ; the smaller one, called
the Kadam Rasul, built by Husain
Shah, is kept in good repair by an
endowment. Mr. Feigussonsaysof its
style : *' It is neither like that of Delhi
nor that of Jaunpur, nor any other
•fyle, bat one purely local, and not
without coi^siden^bla merit in itself;
its principal characteristic being
heavy, short pillars of stone lupport-
ing pointed arches, and vaults in ifrick.
The solidity of the supports goes fcr to
redeem the inherent weakness of Irick
architecture. It also presents, though
in a very subdued form, the ciffved
linear form of the roof, which ii so
characteristic of the style. The
Kadam Rasul was built by Kw-at
Shah, in 937 A. H. =1530 A.D." Jost
outside the E. wall of the citadel v a
lofty brick tower, known as Pir 'Jisa
Minar, which had a chamber with tar
windows at the top, to which acess
was gained by a winding stair, ft"-
Hunter says : ** One of the most inta-
esting of the antiquities of the places
a minar. For two-thirds of the heigk
it is a polygon of twelve sides ; abon
that circular until it attains the heiglit
of 84 ft. The door is at some distant*
from the present level of the ground;
and altogether it looks more like an
Irish round tower than a minar." There
is or was an inscription on this monu-
ment, which ascribed its erection to
Feroz Shah.
The finest rain in Gaur is that of the
Oolden Mosque or Barah Damxaah.
It is close to the N.E. comer of the
citadel. It measures 180 ft firom N.
to S., 60 ft. from E. to W., and is 20
ft. high. The entrance is by an arched
gateway of stone 26 ft. in height
and 6 ft in breadth. The mosque
in plan is oblong, and originally con
sisted of four separate colonnades,
arched and roofed over, and covered
by handsome domes, in all 4^ i"
number. Six minarets or columns of
brown stone faced with black marble
adom the building; bands of blue
marble about 12 in. m breadth embrace
the column from the base to the capital
and are adomed with a profusion i
flower -work carved in marble. The
domes are built of brick. The whole
appearance of this building is strikinglj
grand, exhibiting the taste and manif
cence of the prince who erected it The
corridor is so larse that one can ridi
through it on an elephant, and so enter
the Dakhil or " Salami OaU," the^
entrance to the fort. This beautifij
gate is built of small red bricl^i >*
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 19. PANDUAH JAMALPORE
269
hasleen adorned with embossed bricks,
whifli can still be seen on the towers
at tie four comers. The arch of the
gattway is about 30 ft high, aild forms
a corridor 112 ft long.
The Sultan Mosque is also called the
pahted mosque, from the bricks being
enamelled in green, yellow, blue, and
white, and arranged in bands. The
efftct must have been very striking.
The Jantipara mosque is remarkable
for the specimens of embossed brick-
lork with which the front is adorned.
About 1^ m. N. of the Citadel is a
ipace of 600 sq. yds., bounded by a
umpart and ditch, known as the
Flower Garden. Between it and the
Citadel is the Piyaswari, "Abode of
rhirst," a tank of bad water, which is
Baid to have been given to condemned
criminals. Major Francklin describes
it as excellent water.
In the S. wall of the city is a fine
central gate called the Kotioali Bar-
imak, and S. from it stretches an
immense suburb called Ferozepur. In
it is the lesser Oolden Mosque^ which
Buchanan Hamilton praises, and
Ravenshaw calls ** the gem of Gaur."
Panduah is 20 m. N.E. from Gaur,
md 12 m. N.E. from Maldah. It was
^Ued by the Mohammedans Ferozahad,
Hie first independent King of Bengal
Tiade it his capital. A road paved
with brick, from 12 ft. to 15 ft wide,
passes through Panduah. Almost all
the monuments are on the borders of
his road. Near the middle is a bridge
>f three arches, the materials of which
^ave evidently been brought from the
Hindu temples at Gaur, as figures of
Tien and animals are sculptured on
hem. On approaching the ruins from
lie S., the first objects that attract
ittention are the 17th cent, shrines of
^akhdum Shah Jalal^ and his grand-
on Kvib 'Alalia Skah^ which are en-
towed with 28,000 acres of land. To
he N. stands the small Golden Mosquef
vith granite walls and ten brick domes.
Vn Arabic inscription says that it was
milt by Makhdum Shaik, son of
^luhammad Al-Khalidi, in 990 a.h.
^' of this mosque is another, called
^lakhif as having cost a lakh. It is
perhaps one of th§ finest examples of
the Bengali tomb. It is 80 ft. 8a.»
covered by one dome, and contains the
remains of Ghiasu-din, his wife, and
his daughter-in-law. It is completely
covered with trees, which are growing
out of it and will destroy it 2 m.
beyond it is the tomb of Sikandar,
father of Ghiasu-din, and the greatest
of the monarchs who made Panduah
their capital. It form s part of the great
mosque, called the Adina MuBJid,
the finest specimens of Mogul archi-
tecture in Lower Bengal. It was built
about 1360 by Secunder Shah, and
shows traces of having been constructed
out of Hindu and even Buddhistic
remains. The "Buddhist railing"
round the W. front is incapable of any
other explanation. The Kiblah and
Mimbah (pulpit) are gems of stone
carving. According to Mr. Fergusson
the ground-plan and dimensions are
exactiy similar to those of the Great
Mosque at Damascus. It extends 500
ft from N. to S., and 300 ft from E.
to W. This space is subdivided by
transverse brick walls and stone pillars
into 127 squares, each covered by a
dome. On the outside are many small
windows, highly decorated with carved
tiles disposed in arches. The mosque
proper is composed of a central apart-
ment and two wings. It is 62 ft.
high in the centre from the floor to the
middle of the dome.
The only other ruin of note in
Panduah is the Sataisgarh, said to have
been the king's palace. It is situated
opposite the Adina Mosque, and is
enveloped in the most dense jungle.
There are a great number of tigers
and panthers in and near Gaur and
Panduah, and in the Barindra tract and
the jungles E. of them ; but the English
sportsman who desires to hunt them
must be prepared to spend time and
money, and must take advice from
experienced Nimrods who know the
locality.]
From Tin Pahar sta. the loop line
continues N. to
291 qi. Jamalpore sta. (R. ), and re-
joins the main E. I. Rly^at
Digitized by LjOOQIC
270
ROUTE 20. CALCUTTA TO DARJEELINO
India
262 m. Luekeesetai juuc. sta. (see
Rte. 1).
ROUTE 20
From Calcutta by Eastern Bengal
Railway to Darjbbling
The traveller leaves Calcutta by the
Sealdah station.
45 m. Banaghat junc. sta., D.B.
[Branch line E. for Bongong and
Ehoolna.]
103 m. Poradaha junc. sta. [Branch
line E. for Goalundo Ghat (50 m.) on
the Ganges, Rte. 20b.]
120 m. Damookdea sta., on the right
bank of the Ganges. Here a steam
ferry is in readiness to take passengers
across the river to Sara Gnat. The
distance from the station to the steamer
varies from time to time, as all the
rivers in this part of India have a
tendency to change their course. The
variations in the oed of the Ganges at
various places connected mth. this
railway, oy necessitating changes of
railway stations, and the removal of
lines of rail, have caused great em-
barrassment. Sir William Hunter says :
"Fluvial changes on so great a scale
had been encountered at the river-
crossing, where the Northern Bengal
Railway begins and the Eastern Bengal
Railway ends, that no costly or
permanent terminus has yet been
attempted. "
The distance from the right bank
sta. to Sara Ghat sta., on the left bank,
is about 13 m. , of which a considerable
distance is on temporary rails laid on
the sand in the dry season. The
actual crossing by ferry steamer occu-
pies about twenty minutes. Meals are
procurable on board. At Sara Ghat
the Korthern Bengal Railway com-
mences ; it is metre gauge.
At 24 m. from Sara Ghat is Nattore
sta. (R.), D.B.1
111 m. Parbatipnr junc. sta. (R,
from whence the line towards Assam
ruus E. through Rungpore.
173 m. Jalpaiguri sta. (R.), D.B. i
town with a pop. of 8000. Formerij
a military cantonment, but now a cirfl
station ; chief place of a district of the
same name.
[From Jalpaiguri Ghat a boat leaves
for Teesta Ghat; thence a train runs
to Dam Dim.]
196 m. SiUiguri sta. (R.), D.B. The
N. terminus of the Northern Bengal
Railway.
From this place to Darjeeling the
journey is made by the HimSjayan
Railway on a gauge of 2 ft. The
distance is 50 m., and the time occupied
eight hours.
The line is constructed in the most
substantial manner, with heavy steel
rails (40 lbs. to the yd.) The loco-
motives, specially designed by Messrs.
Sharpe and Stewart of Manchester,
weigh 1 0 tons. The speed of the trains,
both up and down, is not allowed
to exceed 7 m. an hour, although on
special occasions 16 m. has been easily
attained. By the present speed
travellers ascend over 1000 ft. an hour.
It is worthy of note that this is the
first work of the kind for which the
capital required has been raised entirely
in India.
It is essential to make this journey
by daylight. Travellers are strongly
advised to have extra warm clothing at
hand, also a warm wrapper for the feet,
as the transition of temperature from
the plains to the mountains is very
great. They should provide themselves
with veils, as the dust and blacks from
the engine fly into their faces. Those
who sit on the front seats of the open
carriages are especially inconvenienced.
1 A bell wiU be rung at Nattore to arouse
passengers by down mail to be prepared to
alight and cross by ferry at Sara Gbat.
d by Google
Digitized by VjOOQIC
Caanpa.
Digitized by V^
ROtJTE 20. TEENDARIA — KURSEONG DARJEELING
271
At Sookna sta.» 7 m. fiom Silliguri,
the cars begin to ascend. The turns
are very sharp, and at each a fresh
landscape of surpassing beauty is
opened out. The sides of the mountain
are clothed with lofty trees and masses
of jungle, with graceful tree-ferns in
the gullies at the higher altitudes. At
about 15 m. the cars pass round a spur
which projects from the mountain, and
the line runs on the edge of a precipice
of 1000 ft. Breakfast can be taken at
19im. Teendaria (R.)
At 30 m. Kurseong sta. a^(R.), D.B.,
tliere are tea-gardens, with European
managers and medical men residing on
them. Kurseong is 6000 ft. above sea-
iereL Those who stray off the main
paths in damp weather must take pre-
cautions against the leeches, which are
numerous. There are no tigers, but
panthers sometimes carry off cattle.
i'O m. Dazjeeling sta. ^ The beautyof
its situation, upon a narrow ridge high
(about 7000 ft.) above the bed of the
Great Ranjit River, the mountain-
side scattered over with villas and
tmngalows, and the colossal background
)f Himalayan giants towering above
t: these, together with its moderate
»mperature, which neither exceeds 80"
n summer nor falls below 30° in winter,
tend to make Darjeeling a most agree-
iWe residence, and have rendered it the
oost important sanitarium of Bengal.
The District of Darjeeling (pop.
>Ter 155,000) is divided into two por-
ions : the N. is from 4000 to 9000 ft.
bove the aea-level ; the S., or Morang^
onsists of the spurs of the first range
'f the Himalayas and the plains thence
0 the ZU'a of Rungpore. Mountains
rhich rise to between 12,000 and 13,000
>. divide it from Nipal. When Dr.
ampbell took charge in 1839, there
•ere only 20 families in the whole
istrict: he remained superintendent
>r 22 years, built the bazaar, the cut-
leny, and church, made roads, and
?tHbIished a convalescent dep6t at
dlapahar, the Military Caintonment
of Darjeeling.
The Town. On the Mall is the band-
stand and a drinking fountain erected
to the memory of Ashley Eden. The
old Secretariat is a fine large bungalow
on a wide plateau, which looks more
secure from a landslip than any other
house about.
Above the Secretariat is 8t. Andrew's
Church; the foundation-stone of which
was laid by Bishop Milman in 1870.
The old church dates from 1843.
There are tablets in it to George W.
Aylmer Lloyd, C.B., Lieut-Gen. H.M.'s
Bengal Army, who died at Darjeeling
1865, aged 76. To his pei-sonal influ-
ence with the Rajah of Sikkira, Bengal
is indebted for the sanitarium of Dar-
jeelmg.
Another tablet is
In Memoriam
CHARLOTTE, COUNTESS CANNING,
November 1862.
There is also a Union Chapel, in Auck-
land Road. About ^ m. beyond the
church is The Shrubbery, the large and
comfortable residence of the Lieut. -
Governor of Bengal, who spends May
and June, September and October here.
The Eden Sanitarium or Convalescent
Hospital is a most conspicuous build-
ing: it is in the charge of the Clewer
Sisters.
The principal Bazaar is in the centre
of the town, and is well worth a visit.
On Sundays the bazaars are so thronged
that it is difficult to make way tli rough
them. There will be seen numbers of
picturesque natives from all parts —
Lepchas, Limbus, Bhutias, Tibetans,
Nipalese, and Paharis, mixed up with
the Indian servants of European gentle-
men and Hindus, as well as Kabul is,
Cashmeries, and Parsi shopkeepers.
There is an interesting Buddhist
temple of a distinctly Tibetan type in
the picturesque village of Bhutia Busti,
1 m. from Darjeeling. It is worthy of
a visit not only on account of the
temple, but also to see the hill-people
who inhabit the small village.
The Botanical Gardens at Runganin
contain an interesting collection of
trees and plants peculiar to the
Himalayas.
From Darjeeling thi^ highest Moun-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 20. CALCUTTA TO DARJBBLING
Ifdia
tain Peaks in the world can be seen :
of the^ie the loftiest is MouiU JEverestf
29,002 ft, visible from Tiger Mill (a 6
m. ride from Darjeeling) or from Jela-
pahavt the military cantonment, though
the distance is at least 120 m. The
other peaks visible from Darjeeling or
Jelapahar are: Kinchinjanga, 28,156
ft. high, 45 m. distant ; Janu, 25,304
ft. ; Kabru, 24,015 ft. ; Chumalari,
23,943 ft, 84 m. distant ; Pauhanri,
23,186 ft ; Donkia, 23,176 ft, 73 m.
distant ; Baudim, 22,017 ft ; Narsingh,
19,146 ft, 32 m. distant ; Black Rock,
17,672 ft ; and Chomunko, 17,325 ft
Consequently the great attraction of
Darjeeling is its unrivalled Scenery,
which is unspeakably grand and im-
possible to paint in words ; but there
are many views, and particularly that of
Kinchinjanga, which impress the mind
more and more every time that they are
seen. Too often, unfortunately, clvuds
veil the highest peaks for days together,
but at times these roll away, and dis-
play the bare granite summits. One
looks over the lofty hills and across a
vast chasm to the line of perpetual
snow, about 17,000 ft high, on the
side of the stupendous Kinchiujan^.
Above that rises a glittering white
wall, and then it seems as if the sky
were rent and the view is closed by
enormous masses of bare rock. There
is one special feature in the summit of
Kinchinjanga, and that is a lofty wall
of granite of prodigious breadth, which
appears to divide the summit into two
portions.
The effect is much more grand than
if it were one great mass of snow. The
extraordinary grandeur of this scene is
heightened by the colouring given to
it by the rising and setting sun, or by
the moon.
The chief industry of Darjeeling is
the cultivation and manufacture of Tea.
The date of its commencement is 1856,
when the first tea-garden was opened.
There are now nearly 200 covermg an
area of some 50,000 acres, and the out-
put in 1882-3, a particularly favourable
year, was over 8,000,000 lbs.
There is not much ^me to be had
in the immediate neighbourhood of
Darjeeling, but to the able pedestrian,
the botanist, the lover of th§ piotor*
esque, there are endless
Excursions to be made on foot
(1.) A good rider, or strong Alpine
climber, may make an interesting ex-
pedition of 4 days by Tongluto PliiJlat,
m the heart of the snows. The dis-
tances are to
Tonglu (10,070 ft.), 23 m.; thence to
Sundukpho (11,975 ft), 15 m. (paasiiig
Kala Pokri (10,130 ft)) ; thence to
PhalhU (11,811 ft), 13 m. (passiig
Suburkim (11,684 ft.)). The nem
are magnificent There is a good D.E
at eacn of the above stations. Pro*
visions and bedding must be taken.
(2.) Another very favourite and
interesting excursion is to the
Bridge over the Great JtanjU River^
6000 ft below. An excellent road has
been made, by which the whole descent
can be easily performed on ponies, the
distance by the road being 11m. The
zones of vegetation are clearly marked,
first by the oak, chestnut, and mag-
nolia, which grow from 10,000 ft to
7000 ft ; secondly, below 6500 ft by
the AUophila gigantea or tree-fern (to
be seen from the Himalayas to tiie
Malayan Peninsula, Java, and in Cey-
lon) ; thirdly, by the Calamus and
Plectocomia palms (6500 ft. is the
upper limit of palms in Sikkim);
fourthly, by the wild plantain, which
in lower elevations is replaced by a
larger kind. At 1000 ft. below Daijeel-
ing is a fine wooded spur called libong,
where English fruit trees flourish, and
the tea-plant also succeeds admirably.
Below is the village of Ging, surrounded
by steeps cultivated principally with
tea, also with rice, maize, and millet
At 10 m. distance from Daijeeling
is the junction of the Banjit with the
Bangmo. The Ranjit's foaming stream
runs through a dense forest From the
opposite direction the Rangmo comes
tearing down from the top of Senchal,
7000 ft. above. Its roar is heard and
its course is visible, but its channel is
so deep that the stream itself is no-
where seen.
Farther down is the junction of the
Ranjit with the Teesta, which is sea-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 20a. CALCUTTA TO DIBRUGARH
273
green and muddy, while the Great
Kaojit is dark green and very clear.
The Teesta is much the broader,
deeper, and more rapid. This expedi-
tion will take two days.
If time permits, it is well worth
following down the Teesta valley to
Sillirari (see above) instead of return-
ing by train from Darjeeling,
(3.) Senchal, 8610 ft, is clearly seen
from Jelapahar, and is about 6 m. otf.
It used to be a depot for European
troops. The water for Darjeeling is
taken in pipes from the Senchal springs.
An expedition may be made to it, start-
ing early in the morning. It is com-
paratively easy of access, and fi-om Jela-
pahar the path along the ridge of the
mountains may be seen. This path
abounds in rare and beautiful plants,
and traverses magnificent forests of
oak, ma^olia, and rhododendron.
Oaks, laurels, maples, birch, chestnut,
hydrangea, a species of fig, and three
Chinese aiid Japanese kinds, are the
principal trees ; the common bushes
being Aucuba, Skimmia, and the
curious Helwingia, with little clustei-s
of flowers on the centre of the leaf,
like Butcher's Broom. In spring im-
mense broad-leaved arums spring up,
with green or purple-striped hoods
that end in tail -like threads, 18 in.
long, which lie along the ground ; and
there are various kinds of CJonvallaria,
Paris, Begonia, and other beautiful
flowering herbs. Nearly thirty ferns
may be gathered on this excursion,
including many of great beauty and
rarity, but the tree-fern does not ascend
so high. Grasses are very rare in
these woods, except the dwarf bamboo,
now cultivated in the oj^en air in
England.
[India]
ROUTE 20a
The Assam Valley and Brahma-
putra — Calcutta to Dibku-
GARH BY GaUHATI (for ShILLONG).
:0f The Assam Valley
A ti-aveller wishing to visit the As-
sam valley, if unencumbered with heavy
luggage and not averse to many changes
of conveyance, will find the mail route
the most expeditious. W hether coming
from Calcutta or Darjeeling, he leaves
the main line of the Eastern Bengal
Railway at Parbatipur junc. sta. (see
Rte. 20) and proceeds along the branch
line £. to
23 111. Eungpore sta., D.B.
33 m. Kaunia sta., D.B., on the banks
of the Teesta river. Here there is a
wide ferry to
Teesta, D.B., on the E. bank of the
river (a line branches N. to Magalhat
in I hr.) The Eastern Bengal Rly.
(northern section) continues E. by tram-
ways, with changes at river-crossings
according to the season of the year, to
KurigrarHf on the Dharla river, and to
Jatrapur, on the banks of the
Brahmaputra river. Here the River
Steam Navigation Co. 'swell-appointed
steamers ^ are in readiness to take pas-
sengers and mails on board. These
steamers touch at the civil station of
Dhubri, a^ D. B., on the right bank of
the Brahmaputra river, in lat. 26" 2' N.,
and long. 90** 2' E., at the point where
the great river leaves the Assam valley
and turns S. towards the Bay of Bengal.
The steamer reaches Ooalpara about
1 These steamers, or others in connection
with them, start daily every morning from
the terminus of the B. Bengal Rly. at Goa-
lundo Ghat (see Rte. 20b) for Dliubri, where
passengers change on to the mail steamer.
This route into Assam (though many hours
longer) is preferred by some to that via Rung-
pore and kannia, as it avoids the crossing of
the two great rivers, the Teesta and the
Dharla, and the consequent changing and re-
changing from trains to ferry-boats.
Digitized by GoOglCT
274
ROUTE 20a. CALCUTTA TO DIBRUGARH
Mk
noon the day after leaving Dhubri, and
Gauhati the following night. The
traveller can proceed tne next day to
TezporCy the day after to Nigriting for
Manipur, and about 24 hrs. later he
will reach Dibrugarhy the present limit
to the navigation.
The Brahmaputra River
The time occupied in a journey up
the Assam valley is so considerable,
that travellers are not recommended
to undertake it if they have no interest
in the Province or no friend to visit.
If they do ascend the river, they must
remember that the cold wind caused
by the movement of the vessel is most
penetrating, and warm clothes are
absolutely necessary. The scenery,
however, in many places is striking:
on the rt. (1. bank) are the Garo Hills,
and away on the L the grand range of
the Himalayas, and the wooded Bhutan
Hills in the middle distance i the snowy
range is kept in sight all the way up
the river, and is seen to special advan-
tage at sunrise. At Qoalpara, D.B.,
situated at the foot of a conical hill (1.
bank), may be seen picturesque native
merchants and wild hill tribesmen, who
come down from the mountains to trade
in skins, etc. Near the little station of
Gauhati, a^ D. B. (1. bank), the scenery is
beautiful. The river there assumes the
appearance of an extensive lake with
mountainous and wooded shores, but
except at Goalpara, Gauhati, and two
or three other places there are no per-
manent buildings on the banks or any-
where in sight. On the sandbanks
alligators are to be seen basking in the
sun. Close to Gauhati is Peacock Island
in the middle of the river with a temple
upon it, and at a short distance from
the station there is another temple at
the top of a hill, approached by flights
of steep steps which wind round to the
summit.
[There is a very good road 63 m. from
Gauhati S. to
Shillong, ^0^ D. B. , the headquarters of
the Assam Government, and a military
cantonment. The road-side vegetation
in itself makes this journey a pleasure.
There is a daily tonga-pony-service in
8 hr. to Shillong, but if the trayeller
desires to be independent, he should
engage a tonga berorehand by address-
ing the manager of tonga service at
Gauhati There are small D.Bs. at
Barni Hat, 16 m., at Nay a Bungalow,
46 m., and Borpani, 64 m. ; and at the
half-way house, Nangpoh, there is a
very comfortable bungalow, with ser-
vants and all necessaries. After the
last bungalow at Borpani the aaceot
becomes nearly continuous, and &e
Eine forests {Firms Kasya) give lie
indscape a European appearance.
Height of Shillong is 4900 ft. aboie
sea-level. Average rainfall 87*44 is.
The temperature seldom reaches 8(f
F. There is an almost total absenft
of mist, the great drawback of Indian
hill-stations. These circumstances make
Shillong one of the most desirable hiD
residences in India.]
About 76 m. above Gauhati is Tespore
(rt. bank), D.B., and about the same
distance farther is Nigriting (1. bank).
[Here passengers for (210^ m.) Mani-
pur leave the steamer. There is a good
road to (17 m.) Golaghat, thence to
Samaguting in 67 m., good road, ex-
cept during the rains, through dense
jungle. 34 m. farther is Kohimt)
tolerable road but hilly, and 92^ m.
beyond, through hilly but well culti-
vated country, is
Manipur, the scene of the lament-
able disaster in 1891, when Mr. Grim-
wood the Resident, Mr. Qninton the
Commissioner, with several Britisli
officers and their men, were treacher-
ously massacred by the natives. The
game of hockey on horseback wai
formerly almost peculiar to Manipur,
but has now become popular in Indi>
and England under tne name of polo.
The Manipur valley being 2500 ft
above the sea eigoys a temperati
climate.
Manipur can also be approached froB
Cachar (see p. 276).]
At Dibrugarh,D.B. (about 70 m.N.R
of Nigriting), there are thousands of
acres under tea-cultivation, traversed hy
a railroad which runs through the dis-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 20b. CALCUTTA TO DACCA AND 8TLHET VALLEY
275
trict. The CoaZ Mines in the neigh-
boarhood are extensive and are said to
be unique of their kind, and there are
also Petroleum Springs.
Tea Plantations
There are centres of Tea-growing all
along the upper Brahmaputra valley.
The first of importance is Tezpore,
about 250 m. above Dhubri. From
there they extend all the way as far
IS Dibrugarh.
Persons who wish to visit the Tea-
districts should furnish themselves with
introductions^ to some of the planters,
who are very glad to receive visitors
properly accredited. There are numer-
ous D.Bs. scattered over the country,
with bridle-roads to all, and driving-
roads to most of the Tea-gardens from
the stations on the Brahmaputra. A
note to the manager of an estate en-
closing an introduction would ensure
the visitor being met at the station by
a orriage. If the traveller wishes to
be independent, it is a good plan to
take a pony up from Calcutta (via
Goalundo) and ride from one plantation
to another throughout the district : the
owner will have no difficulty in selling
it, if it is a good one, before he returns.
ROUTE 20b
Calcutta to Dacca and Sylhet
Valley by Goalundo and Nar-
AINGANJ.
Dacca and the Sylhet Valley,
[For line from Calcutta to Poradaha
June. sta. (103 m..) see Rte. 20.]
150 m. Qoalnndo Ghat sta., the
nminus of the Eastern Bengal Rail-
^y, is close to the junction of the
k«.^, and Brahmaputra rivers, which
* From personal friends or from the London
d Calcutta agents.
below this point are called the Meghna
river, and form a very large booy of
water several miles across.
Goalundo has no permanent build-
ings, as the river banks at this point
have for many years past changed con-
stantly and destroyed everything that
has been built.
** During the rains the forces work
with uncontrollable fuiy. The new
(railway) terminus at Goalundo has
suffered from a disastrous accident.
Up to 1876 the Goalundo station stood
upon a massive embankment near the
water's edge, protected by masonry
spurs running out to the river. About
£130,000 had been spent upon these
protective works, and it was hoped
that engineering skill had conquered
the violence of the Gangetic floods.
But in August 1875 the solid masonry
spurs, the railway station, and the
magistrates* court, were all swept away,
and deep water covered their site. A
new GoAlundo terminus had to be
erected 2 m. inland from the former
river-bank " (Hunter).
There are plenty of native boats at
Goalundo, and a regular daily service
by steamer to Karainganj (104 m.) ;
and also to Chandpur for Chittagong
and Assam,
254 m.Narainganj, D.B. (pop. 13,000),
is the port of Dacca, and tne terminus
of the NarainganJ-Dacca-MyinensiTig
Bailway. There are several old forts in
the neighbourhood, built by Mir Jumla
in the 17 th century; and almost opposite
stands the Kadam Basul, a small
mosque held in gieat repute by the
local Mohammedans.
[10 m. Dacca sta.,a^ D.B. (83,760
inhab.), was formerly a city of great
importance, but has fallen into decay
owing to the fact that the river-
system of this part of India has com-
pletely changed within this century,
and Dacca, once the capital of Bengal,
is now cut off from the rest of the
Province by a vast body of water diffi
cult and often dangerous to navigate in
small craft. . .
The city looks well from the river,
having many fine modern buildings
facing the stream. First there is the
House of a rich ffitidu Seth, then comes
276
ROUTE 20b. CALCUTTA TO DACCA AND RYLHET VALLEY India
what was the House of Zamindar Wyse,
an Englishman who acquired a large
fortune, and possessed extraordinary
influence ; not far off is the Palace of
the Nawabf whose family is one of
the most distinguished in Bengal, and
celebrated for their charitable acts.
Beyond the palace is the Mitford
HospUaly a fine building.
The two principal streets of the city
cross each other at riglit angles. One
extends from the Lai Bagh palace to
the Dolai creek, and is over 2 m. long.
It runs parallel to the river, and has
branch streets leading to the landing-
places. The other leads to the canton-
ment N. of the town, and is 1^ m.
long. At the junction of the streets is
a square, with a garden in the centre.
The Church is 100 yds. S. of the Com-
missioner's house.
At J m. from the church is the well-
kept Cemetery. It contains a small
tank, and some fine trees. In the centre
is a handsome stone gateway, which
marks the limit of the old cemetery.
The older tombs are within this gate-
way. There is a finely sculptured
mausoleum here 40 ft. high, with
columns of a peculiar kind, probably
the tomb of some Mohammedan of
rank. In 1575, when Akbar's generals
reduced Bengal, Sunhargaon was the
chief commercial city ; the Emperor
Jehangir made Dacca the residence of
the governor, and called the city Jehan-
gimagar.
Notwithstanding the riches and
celebrity of Dacca, there are few old
buildings of any importance left. On
the S. bank of the river, near the centre
of the city, is the great Katra (built
in 1645 A.D., according to Hunter),
which means "arched building." It
bears an inscription with the date 1625.
The small Katra was built by Amiru'l
umra Shaistah Khan, in 1663. To the
E. of the town is the Lai Bagh^ begun
by Muhammad 'Azim, son of Shah
Jehan, in 1677, and probably never
finished. The walls are of red brick,
and very solid.
The Fort was built by Ibrahim Khan,
the fifth Mogul governor, in 1690. In
1712 J'afar Khan removed the court to
Murshedabad.
A considerable quantity ci gold and
silver plate of original design and
excellent workmanship is still made at
Dacca, chiefly for export to Calcutta ;
also gold and silver filigree work of
great excellence. The manofacture of
shell bracelets^ is a speciality.
The once celebrated Dacca mu^ns
— abrawaUf or "running water," 6b^-
?iowat or "woven sAr," subhananij or
"evening dew '* — are almost a thing of
the past ; and the demand in Eonpe
for the old cotton flowered and spriggBd
muslin has almost entirely fallen tS.
But there is a brisk and increasui;
demand for tussore embroidered mosIiH
{kasidas) ; and other kinds of muslii,
striped (dorias), checkered (eharkana\
and figured (Jamdani), are still made
here.
The most pleasant drive at Dacca is
round the Race-course, about 1 m. W.
of the church. S. of it is a fine countr;
villa belonging to the Nawab.
Dacca is a good place for Pig-sHeking
and Tiger-shooting, There are exten-
sive ruins at Sunhargaon, but they can
be visited only on an elephant.
Much of the country about Dacca is
under water in the rainy season, from
June to October.
The rly. from Dacca proceeds N. to
85 m. Mymensiiig sta. (R.)]
There is a daily steamer from Na^
ainganj N.E. to Fenchuganj in Sylhet
District, the head of the navigation aa
the Kusiara river in dry weather. The
journey occupies 2 days. (Fenchuganj
is in a direct line 14 m. S. of Sylbet)
In dry weather it is necessary to take
country boats from here to Cachar
(Silchar).
In the rainy season there is direct
steamer communication between Naiy
ainganj as far as Cachar. [Froi
Cachar to Hanipiir (see Rte. 20a) th
distance is 108 m. ; there are sev<
officers' Rest Houses along this rte.
but the road, in places, is little bette
than a jangle track.] In connectioi
with the daily service a steamer nm
once or twice a week, in one day fnw
Cachar to Chatack, D. B., the head o
the dry -weather navigation of A
Surma river. ^ j
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PVRl AND CUTTACK:
277
IVom Ch&tack a boat (sometimes
steamer) takes a traveller in half a day
to Companyganj, whence there is a steam
tramway to Teria OhatJ), B. , at the foot
of the Khasia Hills. At this place there
is a small D.B. From Teiia Ghatto
Ckerra-Punji:^, D.B., on the crest of
the hill, there is a ffood but very steep
bridle-path. The distance is 10 m., the
ascent 4500 .'t Special arrangements
would have to be made for ponies, but
coolies can be got at Teria in the
morning.
From May to October the traveller
must expect heavy rain on the southern
face of the Khasia Hills, and all baggage,
specially bedding, must be properly
protected by waterproof covering of
some sort. The nature of the rain can
be understood by the fact that the
average yearly fall measured at Cherra-
Pnnji from 1877 to 1881 was 463 in.
The heaviest recorded rainfall in the
world is said to have occurred here on
June 16, 1876, when 40*80 in. fell in
24 hours ; during 1861 the total rain-
fall was 805 in. There is a good seam
of coal from SJ to 4 ft. at Cherra-Punji.
The distance to ShiUong (see p.
274) is 32 m. by a good road. A tonga
may be obtained by addressing the
manager of tonga service at Shillong.
There is a small D.B. at Serarirn, 8 m.
from Cherra-PunJi, and a good one at
Dumpep, half-way to Shillong. The
journey from Teria to Shillong is fatigu-
ing, and the traveller may have to
rough it and to wait in some discom-
fort the arrival of his luggage at the
different stages, but the scenery is
magnificent and the climate very de-
lightful. Warm wraps are absolutely
necessary.
Shillong is much more conveniently
reached from the N. via Dhubri, the
Brahmaputra river, and Gauhati, as
described in Rte. 20a.
There is a regular service of steamers
from €k>alunda, in connection with the
train from Calcutta, for ChandpuVf
whence the Assam Bengal Railway
runs to
81 m. Laksam Jimotion sta. Here
the S. branch of the line runs to
80 m. Ohittagong sta. the S. ter-
tnimtt. It is the chief town of the
district of the same name, and is in
the Bengal Province. The Chittagong
district came into British possession
by cession in 1760. The town is very
unhealthy. The port is one of the
best in India, and its trade, already
considerable, is rapidly increasing.
From Laksam Junction the rail runs
N., passing (16 m.) Comilla, (98 m.)
Srimangalf to
159 m. Karimganj sta. the present
terminus.
ROUTE 21
Calcutta by False Point to Puri
(Jagannath), Black Pagoda
Bhuvanbshwar, and Cuttack.
From Calcutta the traveller will pro-
ceed by sea either to Puri direct, or to
False Point Harbour, thence by road
to Barano Sta., where rail may be
taken to Puri via Khurda Road.
There is a rly. from Calcutta to Dia-
mond Harbour (38 m. in 2 to 3 hrs.)
The steamer will probably anchor for
the first day at Kedgeree, near the mouth
of the Hooghly, and will reach False
Point the next evening. From Novem-
ber till the middle of March the sea is
^nerally calm, with light winds, and
it is during this period that the voyage
should be made ; after that the sim
becomes very heavy along the coast,
and sometimes excessively dangerous.
False Point Harbour. — Large
steamers are obliged to lie out at some
distance from ite mouth. For small
vessels the harbour is safe and conveni-
ent, being formed by two spits — Long
Island and Dowdeswell Island. The
Harbour-master's house is now 2 m.
from Point Ready, at the end of the
spit, and the station is called Hookey-
tollah, at which there is a post and
telegraph office. Hookeytollah was
completely washed away, and the
Harbour-master, his wife, and 8 chil-
dren, most of his staff, and about 90
It is important for the traveller to know
that the through rly. line ftrom Calcutta to
Madras (via Cuttack Junction for Purl) was
opened shortly before this edition was sent
to press; it is therefore far better now to
make the Journey to Puri by rail than by sea.
d by Google
278
ROUTE 21, CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTAOt
India
natives, were drowned by the Cyclone
Wave of the 22d September 1 886. The
station has since been rebuilt, and a
large masonnr refuge house surrounded
with a good bund faced with stone has
been erected, also a D. B.
From Point Palmyras to False Point
Light is only about 30 m. as the crow
ilies, and False Point Lighthouse is now
6^ m. as the crow flies from Point Ready.
The locality derives its name from
the circumstance that ships proceeding
N. frequently mistook it for Point
Palmyras, a degree farther N. A
Lighthouse has oeen erected about
4 m. as the crow flies from Point
Ready. This lighthouse is built of
reddish granite, with a large white
star in the centre, and is 129 ft. high.
It was lighted in 1838, and has a white
flashing light. False Point Light is
now a first order Dioptric Occulting
Light, visible 26 sees., and dark 4 sees.,
and can be seen 19 m.
In the dense jungle round the light-
house tigers are to be found, but should
not be tracked except in the company
pf experienced hunters. The alligators
are of prodigious size, sometimes 30
ft. in length. One was killed with
40 lbs. weight of women's bangles in
its stomach ; two of these bangles
weigh 1 lb. There are excellent fish
in the harbour, but few or no fisher-
men. Good oysters are obtainable in
the harbour. It is not possible to
proceed to Puri (Jagannath) by land
from Dowdeswell Island, as the Devi
and 4 other rivers intervene. There
is no regular accommodation of any
description for travellers at False Point,
but a steam launch from Cuttack (65
m. from the harbour) generally meets
the weekly steamers from Calcutta,
which invariably touch at False Point ;
but even on this launch passengers
have to supply their own food, as none
is carried on board.
Failing the launch there are, how-
ever, plenty of massulah boats, which
come off to ships unless the surf be
very bad indeed. Even in the calmest
weather the surf extends about 80 yds.,
and the boat is thrown up at such an
angle, that it appears as if the crew
must be precipitated into the water.
PnBI,3^ D.B. The distance from
False Point Harbour to Puri is 68 m.
There is no shelter whatever for a vessel
at Puri. The Circuit Hoiise is near the
D.B. ; it is roomy, and EngUshmen
are sometimes allowed to stop there.
The Church is about 80 yds. distant
The town of Puri is about 1^ m. in
breadth from E. to W., that is, from
the sea to the Madhupur river, and
3} m. long from N. to S., that is, from
Balikhand to Loknath Temple. The
pop. is 22,000. But during the great
festivals this number is increased by
100,000 pilgrims. The town cows
an area of 1871 acres, including &e
Kshetrttf or sacred precincts. It is a
city of lodging-houses, and the streeb
are mean and narrow, except the Ba»
dand, or road for the Rath of Jagan-
nath, when he goes from his temple ts
his country-house. This road rma
through the centre of the town N. and
S., and is in places } furlong wide.
The town is destitute of commerce,
and is entirely maintained by the
income of the Great Temple, and
the offerings made to it The en-
dowments of the temple provide a
total annual income of £31,000 ; and
the offerings of pilgrims amount to
at least £37,000 a year ; no one comei
empty-handed. The richer pilgrims
heap gold and silver and jewds at
the feet of the god, or spread before
him charters and title-deeds, convey-
ing lauds in distant provinces. Eveiy
one, from the richest to the poorest,
gives beyond his ability ; many cripple
their fortunes for the rest of their lives ;
and thousands die on the way home.
Ranjit Sing bequeathed the Koh-i-Nur
to Jagannath, though fortunately it
never reached its destination. There
are more than 6000 male adults as
priests, warders of the temple, and
pil^im guides, and, including the mon-
astic establishments, and the guides
who roam through India to escort pil-
grims, there are probably not less than
20,000 men, women, and children de>
pendent on Jagannatii. The immediate
attendants on thegod are divided into8<
orders and 97 classes. At the head of
all is the Rajah of Khurdha, who r^
presents the royal house of Orissa, and
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ftOUTE 21. JAGANNATH
S7d
wbo is the herediUry sweeper of the
temple. There are distinct sets of
servants to put the cod to bed, to dress
and bathe nim, and a numerous band
of nantch girls, who sing before the idol.
Jagannath (Ju^gumath) (Sansc.=
"Lord of the Universe ") is a name of
Krishna, worshipped as Vishnu at the
&mons shrine of Puri, in Orissa. The
OuUf Snotoma^ IfiJl
pilgrims rush forward to draw it, some
may have fallen accidentally beneath its
wheels. In some instances also votar-
ies have been known to throw them-
selves beneath the advancing wheels,
giving rise to the popular notices of
the Car of Jagannath. The number of
such suicides, however, has been greatly
exaggerated, and since Orissa cmae
ScaJe 200 ft to die Incli.
Temple of Jagannath (from Fergusson's Indian Arch.)
unace so called is an amorphous idol,
a rudely carved log,^ which some learned
men believe to have been a Buddhist
aymbol: it has been adopted as an object
of Brahmanical worship. This idol is
annually dragged in procession on a
monstrous car, and as crowds of fanatic
^ Strictly speaking, there are three of these
disgusting idols, viz. Jagannath, liis brother
BaUibhadra, and his sister Subhadra.
under British rule the number has been
much reduced. In 1818 Mr. Stirling
the Resident had witnessed only three
instances of such immolation during
four years. The annual mortality of
the pilgrims amounts to thousands, but
it anses from the pestilential air of Puri,
from famine, and poverty.
The Temple is situated in the centre
of the town, nearly 1 m., as the crow
y Google
28Q
ROUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
Iiidn
flies, from the D.B. It stands upon
rising ground, which is called Nilgiri,
or the Blue Hill, and is surrounded by
a square enclosing stone wall about 20
ft. nigh, with a gateway in the centre
of each side. The E. gate is always
open. Within is a second enclosure
surrounded by a double wall having an
interval of 11 ft. between the walls, and
within this again is the temple proper.
The Hall of UfferbigSj or Bog Mandir
(D),^ is said to have been built by the
Marathas in the last century, at a cost
of 40 lakhs of rs. It was part of the
Black Pagoda of Konarak, and was
brought thence by them. The Nath
Mandir (C), or dancing-hall, also of
late date, is a square hall measuring
69 ft. X 67 ft. inside. The walls are
plain, with only two figures of dwarpals,
called Jaya and Vijaya, and a marble
figure of Garuda, 2 ft. high.
The Jagamohan (B), or Hall of
Audience, where the pilgrims see the
idols, is 80 ft. sq. and 120 ft high.
The Baradewal (A), or Sanctuary,
where the idols are, is also 80 ft. sq.
This part is surmounted by a lofty
conical tower or vimanah.
The idols themselves, that is to
say, Jagannath, with his brother
Balabhaara and his sister Subhadra,
are frightful logs, without hands or
feet, coarsely carved into a wretched
likeness of the human bust. The
tower is 192 ft. high, black with time,
and surmounted by the Wheel and
Flag of Vishnu. The date of its erec-
tion is 1198, and it cost about half a
million sterling ; but it has since been
repeatedly repaired, to "the ruin of the
temple as a work of art."
The only beautiful thing to be
seen at Puri is an exquisite Pillar
brought from the Black Pagoda at
Konarak. It stands outside the Lion
or E. gate of Jagannath's temple, on a
platform of rough stones, antf reckon-
ing to the top of the seated figure of
Arnna, or the Dawn, which surmounts
it, is 36 ft. hi^h. The Lion Gate,
on entering which the pilgrims are
slightly struck with a wand by an
official, has its name from two large
1 These letters refer to corresponding
letters on the plan.
lions of the conventional form, with
one paw raised, which stand one at
either side of the entrance. As the
door stands open, it is possible to see
the bands of pilgrims within, but not
the temples, of which, besides the Great
Pagoda, there are more than 100, 13
of them being sacred to Shiva. There
is also a temple to the Sun.
There is a street about 45 ft. broul
all round the temple enclosure. Turn-
ing to the left, from the Lion G«te
along this road, the visitor comes to
the S. gate, where steps lead up to the
entrance. The entrance itself is 15 ft
high, which is ornamented with many
figures. Above are depicted scenes
from the life of Krishna. The supports
of the massive roof are of iron.
It often happens that whUe the
visitor is viewing the bidlding, a
couple of men will pass by, cwrying
a bundle by a pole, which is passed
through it ; the bundle being a corpse
rolled up in a cloth, and so carried to
be burned.
•1 m. S.W., on the sea-shore near
the Circuit House, is the Swargalhcan,
or "Door of Paradise," where, when all
the ceremonies are finished, the pil-
grims bathe in the surf and wash away
their sins. There is a stump of a pillar
4 ft high on the right hand, near a
small temple. On this pillar offerings
are placed, which are eaten by the
crows. On the left is what is called the
Lahore Math. W^ithin the enclosure
is a well, with excellent fresh water,
which seems wonderful, as the sea is
not 100 yds. off". Opposite will be
seen hundreds of men and women
bathing, the surf rolling over them in
its fury. Afterwards they make Httle
lumps of sand, and stick little pieces of
wood into them.
To the N.E. of the city, passing on
the left the Chandan Tank and Temple,
to the W. of which are the Mitiani
Tank, and the Markhand Tank and
Temple, is a Bridge said to have been
made by the Marathas, but probably
repaired by them. It was built, ac-
cording to Kaiendra Lai Mitra, 1038-50.
It is 278 ft. long by 88 ft. broad, and
has 19 arches. Over this the main
road to Cuttack passes.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 21. JAGANNATH
281
&£. &t)m this is the Garden House,
to which the Car of Jagannath is
brought at the Car Festival, in June
or July, when pilgrims come trooping
into Puri by thousands a day. The
Ckrden House stands at the end of the
broad sandy avenue called the Bara-
dandf 1 m. from the Great Temple.
The house is a temple within a garden
enclosed with a wall 15 ft high. The
principal gateway faces the temple, and
las a pointed roof, adorned with con-
Tentional lions. The gates to this
temple are built upon the Hindu arch
system, with a series of slabs support-
ing the roof, each a little longer than
the other, and projecting beyond it.
This is said to be a very old temple,
but it has not much pfetension to
architectural beauty. On the side of the
temple there is a plain raised seat 4 ft.
high and 19 ft. long, made of chlorite,
and this is called the Batnavedi, the
throne on which the images are placed
when brought to the temple.
The great Car is 45 ft. high &M 35
ft. sq., and is supported on 16 wheelstif
7 ft. diameter. The brother and sister
of Jagannath have separate cars a few
ft. smaller. The car is dragged by 4200
professionals, who come from the neigh-
bouring districts, and during the
festival live at Puri gratis.
The legend is that Indradynmna
pitched his camp here when he arrived
at Puri, and set up an image of Nar-
sing. Here the Sacred Log from the
^ite Island stranded, and here the
Divine Carver made the images of
•Jagannath, etc., and here Indradyumna
performed the horse sacrifice a hundred
times over. On the walls are some
fine carvings of horsemen, etc. Out-
side, over the door, are iron figures
of women 2 ft. high, supporting the
nwf; also carvings of Brahma with
four heads, worshipping Narayan ; of
Krishna playing to the Gopis, etc.
The Baradand is more than 1 m.
long. It is 180 ft. broad in some
places. According to Rajendra Lai
Mitra, Jagannath and some of his
peculiar ceremonial observances are of
Baddhist origin, and the Car Festival
marks the anniversary of Buddha's
birthday. Besides the Car Festival
there are the following holy days : (1)
Ghomagi, "warm clothing festival,"
when the images are dressed in shawls ;
(2) Abisheka, sacred as the anniversary
of Jagannuth's coronation ; (3) Makara,
when the Sun enters the sign Capricorn.
This corresponds to the Strena of the
Romans. • (4) Dola Yatra, or Holif to
celebrate the return of spring, the
Carnival of India. It falls on the full
moon of Phalguna: next to the Car
and Bathing Festivals, this is the most
important at Puri. (5) Ramavavani,
birthday of Rama, when Jagannath is
dressed as Rama ; (6) Damana-bhanijka
Yatra, anniversary of the destruction
of a demon named Damanika ; (7)
Chandana Yatra, the Florialia of the
Romans, and the May-pole of modem
Europe, a feast of flowers ; (8) Rukmini
Harana, anniversary of Rukmini's
elopement. She was the daughter of
Bhishm, King of Berar, and was be-
trothed to Shishupal, but ran off with
Krishu. (9) Snana Yatra, or " Bathing
Festival," when the images are brought
to the N. E. corner of the outer enclos-
ure and bathed at noon, then dressed
and decorated with a proboscis. After
this the images are removed to one of
the side rooms for a fortnight, and
their room is called Andur Ghar or
**siok chamber," and the divinities are
said to be laid up with fever in conse-
quence of their unusual bath ; the real
object is to wash off the dust and soot
of the year, and to re-paint the idols.
10 is the Car Festival ; 11, the Sayana
Ekadashi, on the 11th of the first half
of Ashadh. This marks the day when
Vishnu falls into his four months*
slumber. The images are put to bed,
and said to sleep for four months. (12)
Jhulana Yatra, on the 11th of the first
half of Shravana. Madanamohana,
the proxy of Jagannath, is every night
for five nights placed in a swing and
entertained with singing and dancing.
(13) Janam, birthday of Krishna, — a
priest acts the father, and a nautch girl
the mother ; (14) Parshvaparivartana
Ekadaslii, 11th of the first half of
Shravana, in honour of Vishnu when
asleep turning on to his right side ;
(15) Kaliya Damana, on the day when
Krishna killed the black serpent.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
2Sfi
HOUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PURI AKD CtJTTACK
India
Dr. Hunter supposes this to be the
anniversary of a victory over the
aboriginal Kagas, by the Aryans. (16)
Vamana-janam, anniversary of the
birth of the fifth incarnation of Vishnu.
Jagannath is dressed like a dwarf, and
provided with an umbrella and an urn.
(17) Kuar Punai, at the full moon of
Asnvina, when the discus of Vishnu is
carried in procession, borrowed from
the Buddhist rite of the procession of
the Wheel of the Law ; (18) Utthapana
Ekadashi, the 11th of Eartik, when
Vishnu wakes from his four months'
sleep.
[18 m. N.E. from Puri is Eonaxak,
celebrated for its so-called Black
Pagoda, than which, with the single
exception of the temple of Jagannath
described above, there is no temple in
India better known or about which
more has been written. The traveller
should on no account omit to visit it.
The cost of the trip is about as follows : —
Conveyance \
16 bearers / *
2 torch-bearers
on
6 coolies . . .
Gratuity at 1 1
anna each /
Total . . .
rs. as.
9 0
2
1
0 8
8 6
1 8
15 8
Bemarks.
No supplies can
be got at Kon-
arak except milk
and perhuss eggs.
The travelllr will
do well to mxry
even drinkftig-
water with him.
If a pony can be procured, it will be
best to ride, but otherwise the journey
may be made in a palki witn eight
bearers, three coolies to carry provisions,
etc., and two torch -bearers. The start
should be made at 3. 30 A. m. As Uiiyas
do not understand Hindustani, much
less English, an interpreter is necessary.
The path at first runs N. for about 2
m., and then turns to the right and
goes direct E. The whole way lies
through a fine grassy plain, in which
are innumerable herds of black buck,
which are so tame, that even the noise
of the ham/mala, who chant a monoton-
ous song, does not scare them away.
There should be a relay of bearers
at 10 m. from Puri. The trees are few
and far between, and there is only one
hut, which is near the river Kushbhadra,
13^ m. from Puri. The river is about
100 yds. broad in the rains, but in the
cold season there are three streams,
swift, but only 1 ft. deep. About 1 m.
from the temple there are a few clumps
of trees on the right, one thick enough
to give shelter from the sun.
At first sight the Black Pagods
is disappointing. It has on the N.
side a neap of ruins, 45 ft. high md
about 70 ft. long, sloping down at a steep
angle. This was tne tower that coa-
tained the idol. In front of it is tke
Jagamohan, or porch, now the only put
standing, and much ruined intemalk
It has a square base of 90 ft., is bnut
of red lateiite, and is called blaii
'on adbount jpf the deep shadow it
casts.
The whole roof is excessively beau-
tiful, itndjpvered with elaborate carv-
ings, an(f4tr. Fergusson says of it that
there is no roof in India where the
aameplay of light and shade is ob-
taii4A» with an equal amount of rich-
i|lss and constructive propriety, nor
one that sits so gracefully on the base
that supports it. The traveller who
has seen the Hindu temples of Northern
and Western India will not be prepared
to find iron employed in sucn struc-
tures. In Orissa, however, this has
been the case. Fergusson says of this
building: "Internally the chamber
is singularly plain, but presents some
constructive peculiarities worthy of
attention. On the floor it is about 40
ft. sq., aud the walls rise plain to about
the same height. Here it begins to
bracket inwards, till it contracts to
about 20 ft., where it was ceiled with
a fiat stone roof, supported by wrought-
iron beams . . , showing a knowMge
of the properties and stren^h of the
material that is remarkable in a people
who are now so utterly incapable of
forging such masses. . . . The employ-
ment of these beams here is a mystery.
They were not wanted for strength, as
the building is still firm after they
have fallen, and so expensive a false
ceiling was not wanted architecturally
tfl^roof so plain a chamber. It seems
to be only another instance of that
profusion of labour which the Hindus
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ROUTE 21, BHUVANESHWAR
2«3
loved to lavish on the temples of their
f,'ods" {UUt. of Arch, p. 428). The
entrance of the temple is on the £. side.
Tke interior of the hall is filled to the
height of 8 ft. with huge stones, which
liave fallen from the roof or sides.
Most of them have holes in them,
showing that they have been clamped
with iron. E. of the E. door are two
stone lions, with strongly marked
manes, and one paw lifted up : they
rest on the backs of elephants, which
are smaller in size.* The height of the
entrance, which has no door, is 16i
ft. The roof of the entrance is sup-
ported by two rafters of iron and four
of stone. In front of the entrance,
amongst the stones, lies a bar of iron
23 ft. long, and 11} in. thick and
broad.
The sides of the entrance are orna-
mented with eight rows or .patterns,
very finely executed. The temi)le was
dedicated to the Sun, which divinity is
said to have here cured Sambu, son t)f
standing. As the E. door was guarded
by lions, so that to the S*»was by
horses trampling down armed mepj-
who from their tusk-like teeth, crisped
hair, and Kukri knives and shields, are
evidently intended for aborigines. The
N. door had elephants before it. These
not solid enough to bear 90 enorm<^us
a structure. He has probably assigned
the true cause for the fall of the build-
ing, but as we know that the Marathas
carried off large portions of it, it is
more than possible that' man assisted
very signally in the destruction. Over
the E. entrance used to be a chlorite
slab, on which the emblems of the days
of the week, with the ascending and
descending nodes, were carved. Some
English antiquaries attempted to re-
move it to the Museum at Calcutta,
but after dragging it 200 yds., gave
up the attempt, though the Indian
builders, after excavating the block in
the Hill States, and carving it, had
carried it 80 m. across swamps and
unbridged rivers to Konarak. It lies
now about 200 yds. to the E. of the
Great Tree, and is 20 ft. 2 in. long, 4 ft.
deep, and 4 ft. 10 in. broad. It is sadly
disfigured with oil and red paint, with
whicn the Hindus have bedaubed it.
At the Jagamohan itself, the traveller
Krishna, of a leprosy of twelve ^ears'^«hoj|ld notice the spirit with which the
horses at the S. face are carved, and
also the device on one of the shields,
of two climbing lizards. The sea,
about 2 m. off, is not visible from
Konarak.]
[Bhuvaneshwar (pop. 4000), 38 m.
and the horses remain, but cast down^ by rail from Puri, and 10 m. from
at a distance from where they stood. ^ '" '^ -■ '^
The W. door is closed by the vast heap
of ruins, of the great tower.
To the S. of the Jagamohan is a
very large banyan tree, under which is
a good place for the traveller to take
his meal ; and near the great tree is a
grove of palms and sniper trees, and
a garden with a mathf or devotee's
residence ; also a square temple, without
any idol in it Milk and eggs can be
procured at or near this place, where a
tent might be pitched. Stirling fixes
the date of the Black Pagoda m the
year 1241, but Mr. Fergusson attributes
it to the latter half of the 9th century.
When he visited Konarak in 1837 a
portion of the Great Tower was still
standing. He is of opinion that the
destruction of the temple was owing,
not to earthquakes, or man's violence,
but to the nature of the soil, which was
Barang (for Cuttack). Many rums
and temples are passed before reaching
the Tovmy once the capital of a large
and flourishing kingdom, but now
interesting only to the antiquarian.
It occupies the central area between
the temples of Rameshvara, Bhuvan-
eshwar, Kapileshvara, Bhaskareshvara,
and Rameshvara. One half of the
community are priests or temple ser-
vants, who rank amongst the most
persistent beggars in the world.
The first mention of Bhuvaneshwar,
in the Records of the Temple at Ja-
gannath, dates from the reign of Yayati,
474-526 A.D., the first of the Kesaris, or
Lion dynasty of Orissa. He expelled
the Yavanas, thought b^ Stirling and
Hunter to be the Buddhists. His suc-
cessors reigned in Bhuvaneshwar until
Nripati Kesari in 940-50 a.d. founded
Cuttack and made it his capital.
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ROUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
tndvi
7000 slirines once encircled the sacred
lake ; now but 500 remain in various
stages of decay, exhibiting every phase
of Orissan art ** from the rough con-
ceptions of the 6th cent. , through the
exc^uisite designs and ungrudginc
artistic toil of tne 12th, to the hurried
dishonest stucco imitations of the
present day." It is easy to perceive
that there are two styles of architecture
which run side by side with one
another. The first is represented by
the temples of Parashurameshvara
and Mukteshvara, the second by the
Great Temple. They are not antagon-
istic but sister styles, and seem to have
had different origins. " "We can find
affinities with the first two, but I
know of nothing like the Great Temple
anywhere else."
"The Great Temple is," says Fer-
gusson, "perhaps the finest example
of a purely Hindu temple in India."
Unfortunately none but Hindus may
approach the entrance of the encloJiUre,
the high walls of which are 7 ft. thick
and of large cut stones without mortar.
From the top, however, of a ladder
placed a^inst the N. wall a view of
the intenor may be obtained. Within
are also many smaller temples, of
which a plain one 20 ft. high is the
oldest. At the N.E. comer of the
enclosure wall there is a pavilion per-
haps built for a music hall, but now
containing an image of Parbati.
The Great Temple was built by Lelat
Indra Kesari (617-657) and consisted
originally of only a vimanah and
porch ; the beautiful Nat and Bhog
mandirs were added between 1090 and
1104. The presiding deity is Tribhuva-
neshvara, **Lord of the Three Worlds,"
generally called Bhuvaneshwar. He
is represented in the sanctuary by a
block of ^anite 8 ft. in diameter, and
rising 8 m. above the floor. It is
bathed with water, milk, and bhang.
There are twenty-two dhupas^ or cere-
monies daily, consisting in washing the
teeth of the divinity, moving a lamp in
front, dressing, breakfast, etc.
The Great Tower can be seen from
outside the wall. It is 55 ft. high, and ,
though not so large, is decidedly fiuer
in design than that at Tanjore. * * Eveir
inch of the surface is covered with
carving in the most elaborate manner ;
it is not only the divisions of the
courses, the roll mouldings on the
angles, or the breaks on the face of the
tower, but every individual stone in
the tower has a pattern carved upon
it.'* Especially in the perpendicukr
parts seen from the courtyard "tiie
sculpture is of a vej-y high order and
great beauty of design." The top of
the spire is flat, and from the centre
rises a cylindrical neck, supporting t
ribbed dome, over which is placed the
Kalasha or * * pinnacle. " Twelve statues
of lions seated support the dome. Ovct
it is a broken trident.
The Nat Maadir is elegant, of course,
but differs from the style of the porch,
** in that all power of expression is gone
\vjiich enabled the early architects to
make small things look gigantic from
^the mere exuberance of labour bestowed
on them."
OutsMe the enclosure are many small
subterraneous temples, and at the N.E.
comer is a platform with, beyond to the
E., a very nandsome t-ank surrounded
by a row of 108 small temples. The
jungle to the S. of the Great Tower, to
the extent of 20 acres, is said to be the
site of Lelat Indra Kesari's palace, and
exhibits everywhere the remains of
foundations and pavements. N. of
the temple is the very fine tank called
VindusaugaTy '* ocean drop." In the
centre is a Jal Mandir, or ** Water
Pavilion," consisting of several shrines,
on which perch numerous cranes in
motionless repose. In front of the
central ghat of this tank there is a
magnificent temple, with a porch, a
more modern dancing-hall, and Bhog
Mandir. All but the Bhog Mandir are
lined with brick-red sandstone, elabor-
ately sculptured. The temple is sacred
to Vasudev, or Krishna, and Ananta or
Balaram, and no pilgrim is allowed to
perform any religious ceremony in the
town or to visit Bhuvaneshwar without
praying for permission here. Passing
along the E. side of the tank, the
traveller will see several temples of the
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285
same shape as the Great Tower. About
J m. to the E.N.E. of the Ananta and
Vasudev Temple is one about 40 ft.
high to KotUirtheshvara^ "The lord
of ten millions of sacred pools." It is
evidently built of stones from some
other edifice. ^ m. to the E. of this is
the Temple of BrahTneshvara^ on a high
mound, formed into a terrace. It is
mo.st sumptuously carved, inside as well
88 out, and was erected at the end of
the 9th cen tury A. D. W. of tbe temple,
close to its terrace, is a tank called
Brahma Eunda. N.E. of the Great
Tower is an old ruined temple to Bhas-
hareshvaray ** Sun -god," of basalt, and
said to belong to the close of the 5th or
the beginning of the 6th century.
i m. to the W. of Bhaskareshvara is
the once magnificent Temple of Baj
Banl Mr. Fergusson says of it {fiist.
of Arch. p. 424) that "the plan is
arranged so as to give great variety
and may of light and shade, and as the
details are of the most exquisite beauty,
it is one of the gems of Orissan Art."
It faces the E., knd has a porch in
front, both of dressed brick-red sand-
stona The niches are filled with
statues 3 ft. high, executed with great
vigour and elegance ; one of them closely
resembles the statue of Venus de Medici.
General Stewart and Colonel Mackenzie
carried away numbers of statues and
sadly defaced the building. Observe
the pillar with 3 kneeling elephants
and lions, with above a Na^ni or
female Naga with her seven-headed
snake hood, and over the doorways the
Navagraha or 9 planets.
About 300 yds. to the W. of the Raj
Rani is a grove of mango trees, called
Siddharanya, "Grove of th^ perfect
beings." Here many temples were
built of which more than 20 remain
entire. Of these the most remarkable
are Mukteshvara, Kedareshvara, Sid-
dheshvara, and Parashurameshvara.
Mukteshyara is the handsomest,
though the smallest. It is 35 ft. high,
and the porch 25 ft. high. The floral
bands are better executed than in
most of the temples ; the bas-reliefs
sharp and impressive ; the statuettes
vigorous and full of action, with
drapery well disposed, and the dis-
position of the whole elegant and most
effective. Among the subjects are:
a lady mounted on a rearing elephant
and attacking an armed giant ; a figure
of Annapurna presenting alms to
Shiva ; females, half- serpents, canopied
under five or seven - headed cobras ;
lions mounted on elephants, or fighting
with lions ; damsels dancing or ])lay-
ing on the mridang; an emaciated
hermit giving lessons. The scroll-
work, bosses, and friezes are worthy of
note. The chamber of the temple is
7 ft. sq., but outside measures 18 ft
In front of the porch is a To ran 15 ft.
high. It is supported on two columns
of elaborate workmanship, unlike any-
thing of the kind at Bhuvaneshwar.
Over it are two reclining female figures.
It is said that it is used for swinging,
in the Dol Festival. Close behind the
temple is a tank shaded by a Nagakesh-
vara tree (Mesuaf erred) of remarkable
size and beauty ; 30 ft. to the S. is the
Gauri Kunda tank. The water is
beautifully clear, tepid, and full of fish,
and the best drinking water in the
locaUty. Water flows into it from the
first-named tank, but a much greater
quantity flows out, sufficient to irrigate
25 acres of arid laterite soil. It is said
to have been excavated by the goddess
Gauri, and that it bestows beauty, good
fortune, and freedom from all sin.
Eedareshyara.— Close by this Kunda
is the Kedareshvara Temple, and near
it against the outer wall of a small
room is a figure of Hanuman, the
monkey -god, 8 ft. high, and one of
Durga, standing on a lion. Her statue
is of chlorite, and has the finest female
head to be seen in Bhuvaneshwar. The
Kedareshvara temple is 41 ft. high,
and has an almost circular ground- plan.
This temple is probably older than the
Great Tower, and possibly dates from
the middle of the 6th century. It is
very sacred.
N.W. of Mukteshvara is Siddesh-
vara, which is very ancient, and was
once the most sacred spot on this side
of Bhuvaneshwar. It is 47 ft high,
and has a well-proportioned porch.
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286
ROUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
India
Parashurameshvara, 200 yds. to the
W. of the Gauri tank, Fergusson con-
siders the oldest temple at Bhuvan-
esh war. * * The sculptures are cut with
a delicacy seldom surpassed." The
ground-plan is a square, the porch is
oblong and covered with bas-reliefs
representing processions of horses and
elephants in the upper linear bands
under the cornice, and scenes from the
life of Rama in the lower. The roof is
a sloping terrace, in the middle of
which is a clear story with a sloping
roof; flat in the middle. As the roof-
stones project beyond the openings,
neither direct rays of sun nor rain can
penetrate. This occurs nowhere else
except in the Mohan of the Vaital
Temple.
Aldbukeshvara is of red sandstone,
and stands to the N. E. of the last.
Vaital Dewal stands on the roadside
to the W. of the Vindusaugar tank. 1 ts
spire is four-sided, and ends in a long
ndge profusely carved and probably of
the 9th century.
Someshvara stands to the S. of the
last named. It is 38 ft. high and 27
ft. square, and richly carved all
over.
A list of 81 other temples will be
found in the Antiquities of Orissa, vol.
ii. pp. 97, 98.]
[The Caves of XJdayagiri and Khan-
da{^ lie about 4 m. to the N.W.
through low jungle, which gradually
increases till the hills are reached.
Udayagiri is 110 ft. high, and the
caves exist in eight stages. The lowest
being the Rani Naur, or Queen's Palace,
called by Fergusson the Raj Rani Cave,
near the guide's hut " It consists of
two rows of cells, one above the other,
shaded by pillared verandahs, with a
courtyard 49x43 ft. cut out of the
hillside." The upper story, which
faces E., has eight enti*ances. There
are two dwarpals, representing men in
what appears to be Grecian armour,
with buskins and greaves, cut out of
the solid rock in alto-relievo. The
verandah gives access to four small
cells, and at either end is a rock lion,
executed with spme spirit. The back
wall of the verandah is an extensive
series of tableaux, difficult to makie out
First on the left are men carrying fhiit,
a ^oup of elephants, and soldiers armed
with swords.
The lower story also has eight en-
trances. The ground-floor front was
formed of a colonnaded verandah 44 ft.
long, having a raised seat or benne
along its whole inner line. It was
formerly supported by a row of eight
square pillars, of which only the two
end ones -remain, and opened E. into
an oblong chamber, and N. into three
rooms. Here there is an extensiifi
frieze, much dilapidated, so that only
four fragments admit of description.
The first represents a house, and a female
figure looks out of each of the 3 doors
and one from the balcony, which is
protected by a Buddhist rail. A
similar rail runs in front of the lower
story, with a large tree by its side. In
the second fragment a saint or priest
holds a piece of cloth in his left hand
and extends the right as in the act of
blessing ; one servant holds an um-
brella, and another carries a sword.
Lt. is a devotee on his knees, and be-
yond two kneeling women bring offer-
ings, one dusting the feet of a boy, who
has one hand on her head. In the
third fragment is a saddle-horse with
three attendants, and the holy man
with an umbrella held over him, and
two attendants with swords. In the
fourth fragment there is a group of
six women, three carrying pitchers
on their heads, one kneeling and
offering her pitcher to a figure, which
is lost.
Ganesh Gumpha (or more correctly
Gupha) is almost due N. of the Rani
Naur Cave, and much higher in the
hill. It has only one story, but two
compartments, with a verandah in
front. There are three pillars in the
front of the verandah, square and
massive, but two others have fallen.
The pillars have brackets, with female
figures carved on them. The flight of
steps leading to the verandah has a
crouching elephant on either side, each
holding a lotus in . his trunk. The
verandah is 5 ft. 4 in. high, and its
wall is ornamented with a series of 8
tableaux in alto-relievo. This fiiew
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 21. CAVES OP UDAYAOIRI AND KHANDAGIRI
287
and t^iat in the Rani Naur Cave repre-
sent the same story, the main difference
being that in this cave the figures are
more classical and better drawn, and,
therefore, Mr. Fergusson thinks, more
modem. In the Rani's cave they are
certainly more Hindu. Of the story
iiom which these designs are taken,
nothing is known.
50 yds. W. of Rani Naur Cave is a
flight of steps which lead to a two-
storied cave called Stvargapuri, Both
stories have two rooms, with a verandah
in front, which has been supported by
pillars now broken. There is no carving
or inscription except on some pilasters
near the door, from the top of which
runs a line of Buddhist rails, sur-
mounted by an elephant in bas-relief,
with what is perhaps a human figure
wd a tree behind it.
X. of these are the Jaya Vijaya^ or
Caves of Hansapur. There is a frieze
with three compartments, the base
being formed of a line of Buddhist
rails. In the central compartment is
a Bo tree. Beside the tree are two
male figures, that on the left with
folded hands, and that on the right
holdmg a bit of cloth tied to the tree
and a small branch. Near the men
are two females bringing trays of
offerings. The scroll-work on the
semicircular bands over the doorways
are different, and beyond them are two
turbaned figures carrying trays of
offerings. At the sides of the facjade
are a man and woman, 6 ft. high, in
alto-relievo. To the left is a small
cave called Dwarkapura.
Gopalapura. — To the N.W. are two
gronps of caves, named Gopalapura
and Manchapura. On the piers of the
hall are two inscriptions in the Lat
character, now ille^ble.
Vaikwitha, — This and two other
cares, Patalapura and Jamapura, are
a little to the N.W. They are much
defaced and are now uninteresting.
75 yds. to the N*W. is the Hathi
OuphOf or ^* Elephant Cave," of which
Mr. Fergusson says : * * It is an extensive
natural cave, unimproved by art " {Tree
and Sen)e7U Worship, 2d ed. p. 267).
To the feftr is a boulder which has been
hollowed out into a cell 5 ft. sq. Over
the entrance, cut into the scarped rock,
is an inscription in the most ancient
Lat character, perhaps the oldest
Indian engraved document that has
come down to us. This long inscription
is an account of the grandeur and piety
of Aira the King of Kalinga.
"All who take interest in Indian
antiquities," says Prinsep, "will at
once see the value of the above
record, perhaps the most curious that
has yet been disclosed to us." Rajen-
dra Lai Mitra supposes that Aira men-
tioned in the inscription lived within
the hundred years preceding the acces-
sion of Chandragupta to the throne of
Magadha, in 316 B.c. There are several
smaller inscriptions within the cave,
some in ill-formed Gupta character,
others in equally degenerate Kutila.
They were cut probably by idle monks
or visitors. A few yds. N. of the
Elephant Cave is the Pavana Gupha,
or " Cave of Purification."
About 76 ft. to the S.W. of the
Pavana Gupha is the Sarpa Gupha, or
"Serpent Cave." On the top of the
entrance is a rude carving of the hood
of a three-headed cobra. Under this
is the door, through which a man can
just crawl ; the interior is a cube of 4 ft.
Beside the door is an inscription thus
translated by James Prinsep: "The
unequalled chamber of Chulakarma
and the appropriate temple of Karma
Rishi." Near this is the Bhajana
Gupha, or "Cave of Meditation." A
little to the N. is the Alakapura, or
" Palace of Indra." Neither is of any
importance.
Bagh Oupha, or "Tiger Cave."— At
60 ft. to the N. is the very interesting
Tiger Cave, cut externally into the
shape of the upper part of a tiger's
head, with the jaws at full gape.
The eyes- and nose of the monster are
very well marked, but the teeth are
now imperfectly discernible. The
head at top, where it joins the hill,
is 8 ft. 8 in. broad. The gape is 9 ft.
wide, and the entrance to the cell
occupies the place of the gullet To
the right of the entrance is an inscrip-
tion in the Lat character, which says,
"The Cave of Sase'vin," a fierce oppon-
I ent of the Vedas. At the beginning
Digitized by VjOO^:
288
ROUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
India
of the inscription is a Buddhist mono-
gram, and at the end a Svastika. A
little N. of the Tiger Cave is the
Urdhabahu, a one-storied chamber, 12
ft. X 6 ft. wide, with a verandah
faced by pillars with lion capitals and
brackets carved like female figures.
It has an illegible inscription in the
Lat character.
Khaivdagiri J^iW.— This hill is 133
ft high, and faces E. It is thickly
covered with trees. The path which
leads to the top is steep, and at the
height of about 50 ft. divides into two,
one branch leading to the left, and to
a range of caves cut in the E. face of
the hUl (see below).
The path on the right leads to the
Ananta cave, which is a narrow excava-
tion, with four doorways and a verandah
with pillars. Instead of a capital,
these have a projecting bracket, shaped
like a woman . The architrave is heavy,
and over it is a parapet supported on
corbels. In the centre of the back wall
of the cave is a Buddha in bas-relief.
The frieze is in five compartments, and
represents figures running with trays
of oflferings, athletes fighting with bulls
and lions, and two lines of geese running
with spread win^, each with a flower
in its bill. Notice in the semicircular
space under one of the arches a nude
female standing in a lotus-bush, and
holding a lotus-stalk in either hand.
Two elephants are thromng water over
her with their trunks. This is either
Basuli, an aboriginal goddess men-
tioned by Mr. Beames, or Lakshmi.
In the back wall of the verandah are
two inscriptions, one in the Lat char-
acter, and the other in the Kutila.
Now turn back to the place where
the path divides and proceed to the left
to a modern gallery, and to the S.
to a range of three openings. There
is here a Sanscrit inscription of the
12th century in Nagri, which says
the cave belonged to Acharya Kala-
chandra, and his pupil Vellachandra.
Next comes a range of caves facing the
E. , divided into two compartments by
a partition in the middle. On the
back wall is a row of seated Dhyani
Buddhas, and some new images of
Jinna Deva. At the E. end is an
altar of masonry, on which are ranged
a number of Jain images. The second
compartment is very similar. On tlie
back wall is a row of Dhyani Buddhas,
1 ft. high, and below females seated
on stools, some four-handed, others
eight-handed, with one leg crossed
and the other hanging. Below aie
lions couchant.
From this to the top of the hill is
a stilf climb, and the steps in one place
are very steep. On the summit of tfce
hill is a plateau and an 18th cent
temple to Parasuath. From it is a
magnificent panoramic view 15 ul aH
round. The groves of mango and jack
trees are most beautiful. In firont of
the temple is a fine terrace, 50 ft sq.,
with a raised masonry seat all round.
To the S. W. of the temple is a smooth
terrace of 150 ft. diameter, gently
sloping to the W., called the Deva
Sabha. In the centre is a small square
pillar, with a bas-relief of Buddha on
each side, and round it four circles of
Chaityas. Three small boulders, set
in a triangle and covered by a dolmen
of sandstone, stand in the inner circle.
E. of the Deva Sabha, at 100 yds., is a
tank cut in the solid rock, called the
Akasha Ganga, or "heavenly Ganges."
Immediately below the tank is a cave,
where the remains of Rajah Lelat Indra
Kesari are said to rest Bfyendra LaI
Mitra believes the whole of the caves
to be originally Buddhist, and to have
been constructed from 340 to 320 B.C.
He sees in them no connection with
Greek architecture and sculpture.]
Cuttack,* D.B. (pop. 51,000), is
situated at the apex of the delta of the
Mahanadi river, which rises in the
Raipur district of the Central Provinces,
and has a length of 529 m. It pours
down upon the delta through the narrow
gorge of Naraj, 7 m. W. of the town
of Cuttack, and, dividing into two
streams, encircles the city on the N.
and E., and on the W. by its branch,
called the Katjuri. The river during
the rain pours down a prodigious flood,
and to prevent its sweeping away the
city, an important stone embankment
has been erected on the spit of land on
which the city has been ouilt
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ROUTE 21. OUTTACK
289
The D.B. is in the middle of the
Cantonments, on the right of the road
ffoimg down to the fort. About one-
nfth of a mile beyond it is the Parade*
ground, with the English Church, N.,
Eonan Catholie Chapel and Orphanage,
W., and Baptist AJission, S.
Cuttack is the capital of Orissa. It
was founded in the tenth century A. p.
by one of the kings of the long-haired,
or lion, dynasty. Its position as the
key of the Orissa hill territory, and
the centre of the network of the Orissa
canals, ^vea it both military and
oommercial importance.
It is famed for its filigree work in
gold, and silver.
The Fort is called Fort Barabati,
and is in ruins. It may have been
built in the 14th century^. Stirling
says : '* The square sloping bastions
and general s^le bespeak a Hindu
origin." M. la Motte, who travelled
in 1767 A.D., thought the Fort like
the W. side of Windsor Castle. It
was taken by storm by the British
in 1803. It has now been converted
into an unsightly series of earthen
mounds ; the stones of the moat hav-
ing been taken in 1873 to build an
hospital, and those of Ihe Fort to con-
struct the lighthouse at False Point.
The only objects of interest which
remain are the crand arched Oatewayf
flanked by two lofty square towers, in
the E. face, added by the Mohammedan
or the Maratha governors of Orissa in
1750 A.D., as mentioned in Persian in-
scriptions, and the Mosque of Fath Ehan.
In the Ain-i'Akbari it is said that
there was, within the Fort, the famous
palace of Riya Mukund Deo, nine
stories high. This has utterly perished,
but from the ruins have been dug up
fragments of cornices, and a massive
jandelabrum of fine indurated chlorite,
rhe top of the ruined citadel is 100 ft.
ibove the level of the river.
On the way to the Fort, before
mtering the Cantonments, dose to the
jank ofthe TaUlanda Canal, is a garden
Ljamed after Mr. J. Beames, a former
loUector. At the W. extremity is a
beautifully carved arch 9 ft. high, and
several carved stones, all of which were
wrought from Alti by Mr. Beames. On
l^India']
the side pilasters are five rows of orna-
ments deserving attention.
After crossing the bridj^ over the
canal, the Commissioner's Cutcherry, a
hu^ building, is passed on the right.
The stone facing of the Ka^ri river
was made by the Marathas. The bank
is in places 25 ft high, and is faced with
fine blocks of laterite and sandstone.
JFeirs, — Near Cuttack are import-
ant weirs for regulating the flow of the
rivers. Two of these, the Birupa and
Mahanadi, may be seen in quitting the
place. The traveller can drive along
a road a little to the N. of the Taldanda
Canal to the Jobra Ghat, where are
the Great D.P.W. workshops, the Mah-
anadi Weir, and the place of starting
of the launches for Chandbali, False
Point, and Bhadrak. The Birupa river
leaves the Mahanadi on its right bank,
and the weir there is 1980 ft. long and
9 ft. high. Of the four canals which
form the Orissa Irrigation System, two
take oflf from the Birupa Weir, and
one with its branch from the Mahanadi
Weir. The two former are the High
Level Canal and the Kendrapara, the
latter is the Taldanda. The Mahanadi
Weir is 6400 ft. long and 12^ ft. high,
and cost in round numbers 13 lakhs of
rs. It was begun in 1863 and completed
in 1869-70.
Steamers, etc.
The launches of three companies
leave Cuttack every Wed. conveying
passengers to Chandbalt, where they are
transferred to sea-going steamers for
Calcutta ; every Sat. a launch leaves
to meet a sea-going steamer at Awa,
which starts for Calcutta on Mon. ; and
twice weekly a Govt, launch leaves for
Bhadrak, travelling by the High Level
Canal,— a picturesque journey.
The steamers of the B.I.S.N. Co.
call regularly at False Point on their
downward journey for Madras and
coast ports, but not on their return
journey to Calcutta.]
[ChUtaek ta False Poimt,
A steam launch runs between Cut-
tack and False Point in connection
Digitized by VjOOQ JJ
290
ROUTE 21. CALCUTTA TO PURI AND CUTTACK
Iidia
with the steamers from Calcutta and
Bombay and coast |K>rt8. The distance
between Cuttack and False Point is
64^ m. ; of this 54 m. is by canal.
The journey is generally performed in
24 hours. Half an hour after leaving
Cuttack the boat will pass the first
lock, and enter the Eendrapara Canal,
which is here about 80 feet brDad. It
takes about 6 hours to reach the place
where the canal bifurcates, and five
locks are passed, each causing a delay
of 7 to 10 minutes. Whei-e the canal
branches into two, the right branch
leads to Marsughat, and the left to
Awa for Chandbali. There are three
more locks before reaching the Jambu
lock, where tidal waters are reached
about 6 m. from Hookeytolldh, the
great station for False Point harbour.
Since the calamitous cyclone of 1885,
a substantial Refuge House has been
erected at Hookey tollah.]
[Cuttack to Jaipur,
The stages are as follows : —
Names of Stations. Miles.
. 11
. 10
Oattack to Tanghi .
Tanghi to Barchana .
Barchana to Dbaramsala
Dharamsala to JiOP^i^
14
Total
The distance, as the crow flies, is
about 35 m. Leaving Cuttack at about
5 P.M., you will be able to cross the
Mahanadi during daylight, and proceed
during the night 34 m. up the Grand
Trunk Road, passing three Inspection
or Dak Bungalows, at Tanghi, Barchana,
and Dharamsala, where the palki will
cross the river Brahmani in a ferry-
boat. 3 m. farther you leave the Trunk
Road at Kuakhia, turning rt There
is a short cut after crossing the river,
but it is not advisable to take it. Tlie
road then proceeils 10 m. to the E.,
crossing eti route three rivers unbridged,
but fordable in the cold weather ; and at
sunrise you reach
Jajpur. — Yayati Kesari, coming
from Behar, found Jajpur a place of
im|X)rtauce, and made it his capital for
a time. It was close to Dantapura,
where the sacred tooth of Buddha iras
kept, and in the 4th and 5th centarr
A.D. it was called the navel of Bad-
dhism. Yayati subdued it, and con-
verted the sanctuaries into Hindu
places of worship, but in 1558 EaltiM-
bar, a famous champion of Islam, de-
feated the Hindus in a great battle at
Gahvara Tekri, 4 m. to the N.E. of
Jajpur. It is believed that whole
armies are buried here. Kalapthar
demolished all the Hindu temples, nd
the accumulated treasures of art of lOOO
years were lost for ever.
Jajpur (pop. 11,000) is situated on
the S. bank of the Baitarani river. It
was the capital of Orissa until the llfli
century, when it was superseded bf
Cuttack. With the aid of a palki, er
a pony, the visits can see all that is H
be seen at Jig pur in one day. Close
to the D.B. is a noble Tnosqv^e, buiU bf
Nawab Abu Nasvr in 1681 a.d. out oC
the stones of Hindu palacesand temples.
Adjoining the mosque is the residence
of the Magistrate, in whose compound
are to be seen three monolithic statues of
blue chlorite.^ One is Indrani, wife of
Indra, the air-god, a four-armed goddess,
with an admirably-cut elephant as her
footstool. The earth goddess, Varahini,
the wife of Vishnu in his boar incarna-
tion, sits with her infant on her knee.
The most striking of the three mono-
liths represents Chamunda, the wife of
the All-Destroyer, a colossal naked
^Leleton, with the skin hanging to the
bones, and the veins and muscles
standing out in ghastly fidelity. These
figures are finely carved, and the detaili
of the ornaments are worth observa-
tion. A temple to Vishnu, in his boar
incarnation, crowns a flight of stain
leading up from the river.
In a gallery overlooking the driei-vf
bed of the river are seven idols, elabor-
ately carved, and each made of a block
of chlorite 6 ft. high. Mr. Jamei
thinks they have been collected from
various desecrated shrines, and that
some pious Hindu, seeing them placed
1 They were brought from the Cenotaph d
Saiyad 'All Bukhari, a Pathan saint, who ac-
companied Kalap^ar, and when his head was
cut uir, at the siege of Barahati, rode withoot
it to Jajpar, and was buried there.
d by Google
ROUTE 21. JAJPUR
291
against a wall, erected a vaulted roof
over them, and a wall in fiont. Six
of thein are goddesses with four arms
each, the seventh is Naraing. Tlie
first goddess is Kali, or Chamunda,
tTBadiugon her husband Shiva. The
next is the wife of Yama, or " Death,"
with a swine's head ; at her feet is a
buffalo. Next is the wife of Indra ; an
elephant serves her as footstool. Lakh-
shmi comes next ; with two hands she
hohisa child, in a third Vishnu's Wheel,
and in her fourth a shell. Beneath
ier feet is Garuda. Next is a naked
emaciated old hag, the Mother of Death,
Squatting down. Below her are two
votaries, and between them three kinds
of beUs— the bell of Yama, that of Kali,
and that of Vishnu. Savitri, the wife
of Brahma, comes next Parbati comes
next, with a bull at her feet. Below
Narsing are two groups o'f worshippers
and female attendants waving the
chauris.
Close to the gallery is a temple con-
taining a large image of Ganpati.
Opposite the gallery, in a wooded
island in the middle of the river, is the
second great temple, dedicated to the
boar incarnation, and groups of smaller
temples. Beside the main flight of
steps which lead up from the river are
two roofless temples, over the gate of
which is an effigy of the Sun driving
sk horses, and a bull in the midst.
S. about IJ m. along the Bingapur
high road, tuni 1. to the most beautiful
object in Jajpur— the Oarvda Pillar,
32 ft. high ; the base is 6 ft. 5 in.
bij^h, Sijuare, and composed of large
blocks of stone without any ornament,
riie shaft and capital are 26 ft. 7 in.
bigh, and appear to be a monolith.^ The
capital, of exquisite proportion, is carved
to imitate lotus blossoms, and adorned
5elow with lions* heads, from whose
nouths depend strings of roses or beads.
The capital once was crowned with a
igure of Garuda. The Garuda is said to
lave been hurled from the summit of the
riUar by the Mohammedans, who at-
empted also to destroy the pillar itself.
1 The six-sided shaft is about 17 ft. 7 in.
ligh and is in one piece with an octagonal
>Bae on a sqnare, the whole being about 19 ft.
in. over ak.
The Garuda, or a fac-simile of it, now
stands in the ante-chamber of a small
temple of Narsing, in Madhupur, a
village about 1 ra. to the S.E. of the
temple of Jagannath at Jajpur. It is
a fine piece of sculpture 4 ft. high,
carved out of black chlorite, and repre-
sents a human figure resting on one
knee, the palms of the hands pressed
together in an attitude of devotion.
Short wings are attached to the
shoulders, and while the hair of the
fore part of the head is dressed in the
shape of a mitre, the back part of the
head is covered with a profusion of
curls. The face and attitude are
majestic, but the nose is lengthened to
imitate a bird's beak. It rests on a
pedestal which is an exact duplicate
of the capital and upper shaft of the
pillar.
Return now to the Bingapur road,
and proceed to the Ma^atha Bridge, a
fine specimen of architecture. It is not
so large as the bridge of the same name
at Puri, but has twelve horizontal
arches, and is built in precisely the
same fashion. It appears to be of
extreme antiquity, and has been re-
paired with fragments of carvings in
relief taken from temples. It also goes
by the name of the Devidwar, lit.
" Goddess-door Bridge," from its prox-
imity to
The Temple of Biraja, "the Passion-
less One," 500 yds. farther on through
beautiful groves of palms and mango
trees, and Opposite the Brahma Kund,
a tank faced with stone. Hindus alone
are admitted to the temple, but through
the breaches in the enclosure can be
seen the Hall of Audience and the tall
spire. There are some Curious sculp-
tures let into the wall at the portico.
Regain the highway, and a little be-
yond the second milestone, 200 yds.
from the road, on the left-hand side, is the
Temple of Trilochan, or the three-eyed
god, i.e. Shiva. The base of the original
tower, which is now about 60 ft. high,
has survived the general ruin, and for a
height of about 14 ft. from the ground
still stands, richly carved as of yore,
giving some idea of the past glories of
Jajpur. The rest of the building is
covered with stucco.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
292
ROUTE 22. POONA TO GOA
India
Between the Temple of Trilochau
and the road, in an underground cham-
ber» is a very holy and frightful image
of Kali with eighteen arms. In a templo
on the other side of the road are some
fine sculptures. A pipul tree growing
on the top of the spire of this temple
has gradually forced its roots to the
very bottom, and is slowly rending it
asunder.
Jajpur formerly stood on the main
road to Puri, and the pilgrims to Ja-
gannath used regularly to resort to it,
but the sanctity of the place has much
diminished. It is, however, worthy of
inspection b^r all who take an interest
in Hindu antiquities. Many fragments
of halls and temples, all buiit of one cut
stone, are to be found in the town. A
nautch at this place is very different
from the dull, stupid ceremony which
passes under that name at Calcutta
and in the rest of India. The ancient
palace at Jajpur was destroyed by the
officers of the English Public Works
Department, who built biidges along
the Trunk Road with the stones. At
1^ m. to the E. of Jajpur a colossal
figure of Padmapani was du^ up ; the
feet are lost, but the total height must
have been about 17 ft. 6 in. This figure
is now called Shanta Madhava : it has
been removed to the Magistrate's com-
pound.
Should the traveller prefer it, he
ma^ return to Calcutta via Balasore ;
which is only 66 m. in a direct line
from Jajpur to Chandbali(45 m.), from
which steamers run every week.]
Balasore, B. B. This place was once
of great commercial importance, and the
Dutch, and the Danes also, had a factory
here. The French still possess a small
territory of some 100 acres at Balasore ;
where the (swinging) Churruck Pnja,
long stopped throughout British India,
is annually celebrated.
ROUTE 22
PoONA TO MaHABALESHWAK,
KOLHAPUB, BSLOAUM, AND GOA
Poona (see p. 825), the Sonthen
Maratha Railway branches S. from the
O.I. P. 2 m. £. of the station. Pasnng
through three hill ranges, reaches
68 m. Waihar sta. t^ (R.)
[Passengers leave the train here for
Mahabaleshwar, the principal hill-
station of the Bombay Presidcny,
about 40 m. distant by road to the W.
Carria^ and tongas can be hadit
Wathar by giving notice to the miil
contractor at Mahabaleshwar. Itisi
charming drive of about 5 hrs.; thi
first part through rolling country to
18 m. Wai, D.B. (pop. 12,000),
one of the most beautiful rustic towns
in the Deccan. It is situated on the
left bank of 'the Krishna, which ii
lined with beautiful pipul and mango
trees, and with handsome flifi^hts of
stone steps. Behind the city rise hills
of all the shapes which are peculiar to
the mountains in the Deccan. There
are round, peaked, flat-topped hills;
some covered with rocks looking at a
distance, like forts and castles. One
hill near the city rises very abruptly,
aud has a hill-fort on the top. It is
called Pandugarh. The nearest tempk
to the D. B. — and the river is lined witk
beautiful temples — is dedicated to Gan-
pati; the next to Mahadeo'f and one,
at some distance, to Lakshmi, Thej
form the great beauty of this most
picturesc^ue spot. The mandapamt or
canopy, in front of Mahadeo*s tempk
is very light, and a fine specimen of ^
carving in stone. The Rastia finmil;
have an excellent mansion at no grea
distance from the town, called the Mot
Bagh, or "Pearl garden." The TOfu
thither is beautifully shaded by splendi
bamboos, mangoes, and tamarinds. Th
house is a good specimen of the Moham
medan style, it is open on one sid
from top to bottom, and shaded b
huge curtains. Wai is a spot mac
famed in Hindu legend. Here, accord
ing to old tradition, the Pandas spei^
part of their banishment, and perforiod
many wonderful works. On this ae
count, as because of its proximity to tin
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ROUTE 22. PANCHGANNI — MAHABALESHWAR
293
Krislma river so near its source, "Wai is
mved as a place of creat sanctity ; and
there is a college of Brahmans estab-
lished at it, once in much repute.
About 5 m. from Wai up the Krishna
is the village of Dom, where is a very
handsome temple, with a gigantic basin
in the middle of the court of white
marble, the edges carved with lotus
leaves. There is also a pillar about 5
ft. high, having five heads of Shiva on
the top, with cobras twisting round
them, all in white marble.
The most curious thing to be seen
near Wai is a gigantic Banyan Tree, at
the foot of a mountain called Wairat-
garh, about 8 m. from Wai. The exact
area shaded by it is three-quarters of
an acre. The space covered is a very
symmetrical oval. There is no brush-
wood underneath, nor aught to im-
pede the view save the stems of the
shoots from the parent tree. On leav-
ing Wai the road begins a steep
ascent
29 m. Panchganni, a very large
nllage, containing many bungalows
belonging to Europeans, with nice
plantations about them. In fact, many
visitors who come to the hOls prefer
to stop at Panchganni rather than
Mahaoaleshwar, because the rainfall is
less, and the place can be made a per-
manent residence. From Panchganni
the road descends a little for one-third
of a mile. The country round is covered
with low jungle and patches of culti-
vation.
About 1 m. from Mahabaleshwar vil-
lage, the small lake made by the Rajah
of Satara is passed on the right ; it
winds picturesquely, and is about 810
yds. long, and not quite 200 yds. broad.
40 m. Mahabaleshwar ^0^ is a lofty
tableland, 7 m. lone by about 3 m.
wide, bounded on the W. by abrupt
precipices, covered with foliage except
where bold rocks, called "points," break
through. These hills are in N. lat.
17° 56', E. long. 73° 30' : their general
elevation is 4500 ft. above the sea, from
which they are only 26 m. due E. A
1«W part of the surface of the hills is
iBdurated iron-clay or laterite, which
oTwlies basalt and other members of
the secondary trap -formation. The
Fteris aquilinxif or common brake,
grows veiy plentifully on the hills, as
do the willow, the Eugenia jambos and
Gardenia montana. There are a few
oaks. The Tetranthera and Cortilania
flower in November, also the Anjun,
or iron-wood. There are 30 species of
ferns, of which the principal are the
Acrostichum aureum, the Actiniopteris
radiata, the Adiantum laudaium,
the Aspidium cochleatum, the Asple-
nium erectum and falcatum, the Pteris
Iticida and quadriaurita. The geo-
graphical position of this range secures
to it a redundant supply of moisture
during the S. W. monsoon, and has ren-
dered it a fruitful parent of the rivers
that fertilise the Deccan. To the site
of the temple of Mahadeo at Maha-
baleshwar village, mentioned below,
Brahmans assign the honour of giving
birth to the Krishna and four other
streams.
Mahabaleshwar is a favourite resort
of the people of Bombay in the hot
weather, and a Government sanitarium
with eight sets of quarters. Rooms
for one person are charged at the rate
of 40 rs. per month.
The centre of the European quarter
was called Malcolm Peth oy the Rajah
of Satara in honour of Sir John Mal-
colm, who resided much on these hills
when governor ; it contains a Library,
Club, Church, Sir Sydney Beckwith's
Monument, and a Cemetery,
The village of Mahabaleshwar (see
below) is 3 m. to the N. of Malcolm
Peth.
Climate. — The annual mean tempera-
ture of Malcolm Peth is 65° F. During
the monsoon, from middle of June to
end of September, it is uninhabitable
on account of the rains, and so eauable
is the climate during that period, and
indeed until February, that the mean
heat of any month does not differ 4°,
and for more than half the time not
2° from the annual mean ; whilst the
mean of the hottest month only exceeds
it by 7J*. The average daily range of
the thermometer in the open air
throughout the year is only 8°. The
season for visiting the hills commences
in the beginning of October. The at-
mosphere is then stilLyery moist, but
Digitized by VjOOQ
294
ROtJDE 22. K>OKA to GOA
hdk
in general clear and fair during the
day, with gentle showers in the evening.
By these and the prevailing light K.
winds the air is delightfully cooled, the
mean temperature ranging below 66**.
Amongst the sights to see near Ma-
habaleshwar are the Falls of the Yena,
at the head of a wild mountain gorge
of that name on the right of the road
to the Tai Ghat, and reached by a by-
path from a point on the Satara Road.
The stream is here precipitated over
the face of a steep cliff with a sheer
descent of 600 ft., unbroken when the
torrent is swollen by rain, but ordinarily
divided by projecting rocks about one-
third of the way down, and scattered
below into thin white streaks and spray,
which are often circled by rainbows
from the oblique rays of the sun.
Lodwick Point shouM be visited,
passing through the village of Malcolm
Peth. At about J m. before reaching
the monument to General Lodwick the
carriage stops, and the rest of the way
must be done on foot or on a pony.
The column is about 25 ft. high. The
spot commands a noble view over
Pratapgarh to the W. and Makrangarh
to the S.W.
On the right of the road, and on the
way to Elphinstone Point, is the ancient
village of MahabcUeshwar. 1 1 is a small
place, but of great sanctity in the eyes
of the Hindus, as being the spot where
the Krishna and four other rivers have
their source. There are several temples,
one very old, of black stone, said to
have been built by a Gauli Raja.
Another built by the same chief, and
called Koteshwar, commands a grand
view over the Wai valley. The prin-
cipal temple, however, is called Maha-
baleshwar.
Elphinstone Point is the grandest of
all the precipitous scarps which over-
hang the low country. This is about
4 m. by a good road to the W. of Ma-
habaleshwar Temple. There is a sheer
descent of above 2000 ft., though not
so steep at the summit but that wild
bison have been seen to gallop down
some part. A rock rolled from the
top thunders down and crashes into
the forests below. The view extends
to the mountains, among which is the
hill -fort of Torna, over an apparently
nninhabited jungle. To the right of
the Point is Arthur's Seat, another
fine view which must by no meaus be
omitted. It has its name from Mr.
Arthur Malet, C.S., who first built a
house here.
A visit should be paid to Pratabgirh,
a picturesque hill-fort crowning a pre-
cipitous rock, remarkable as the stroDg-
hold of Shivaji, and as the scene of one
of the most remarkable events in
Indian history, the founding of the
Maratha empire. A channing dme
of 6 m. leads to the foot of the hills,
whence a steep and difficult path ascends
to the gates of the fortress. Shivap,
the robber, in 1656 having provoked
hostilities with Bijapur, whose armyb
could not meet in the open, dettrrainei
to overcome its general, Afzal Khan,
by stratagem, and pretending to be ii
a state of great alarm at the approach
of the Bijapur army to besiege Partah-
garh, offered to make his submission
to Afzal Khan at a personal iutemew,
on condition that the two commanders
should meet unarmed, in the miilst,
between the two armies with only one
armed attendant. They acconlinglf
approached from either side, attired,
to all appearance, in white muslin
robes, but Shivaji wore under his rohe
and turban a coat of mail, and carried
concealed in one hand a cruel instrn-
ment called **the tiger's claws," con-
sisting of sharp steel hooks attached
by rings to his fingers. In the veiT
act of embracing in an attitude a
abject humility, Shivaji stuck his elavs
into the Khan, tore out his vitala, and
despatched him with a hidden dagg;er.
His head was struck off and bnried
under the old tower in the Fort, dot
fallen to ruin. Meanwhile the Marathi
army, which had been concealed in
ambush in the jungle, rushed out upoa
the Bijapur forces, dispersed them, and
cut them to pieces.]
Returning to Wathar sta. the Hk
proceeds to
77 m. Satara Road sta. From hen
it is a 10 m. drive by tonga or carria*
to Satara. Satara, D.B. (pop. 25,000),
is situated in a hollow between tw»
ranges of hills, which rise above it on
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROtTB 22. SAHARA
295
the E. and W., and partly overlap it
on the a The hill on the W. is the
tennination of a spur from the Maha-
baleshwar Hills. From this hill to the
city there is an aqueduct 4 m. long,
and there are also two tine tanks. The
city htis many historic recollections,
and the station is one of the most salu-
brious and pleasant in the Deccan,
being close to the foot of the Alalia-
bileshwar Hills. The Ccmtonmeni is
about 1^ m. from N. to S., and neaily
the same from E. to W. In the S. end
is the Residency compound. Outside
the N. gate of the Residency are linen
for the European soldiers, and the native
liues and Sadr baziiar to the N. of them.
St. ThoTtias's Churchy 700 yds. W. of
the native lines, was open^ in 1850.
At the E. end is a handsome stained
glass window, and here also is a car\-ed
screen and roof of teak, and a pulpit
of polished gray stone. J m. W. of
the English bamicks is a large tree
with a stone bench round it, ascended
by steps. It has an interesting inscrip-
tion to the memory of his late High-
ness Shahji Raja, of Satara, and of
H. B. E. Frere, Esq., once British
Commissioner of Satara. The New
Cemetery is J m. to the N.E. of the
European barracks, und is planted with
flowers and cypresses ana other fine
trees. The road from the Old Cemetery
leads W. through a bazaar for about i
m. and past the Jumma Musjid on the
left to
The New Palace^ built by Apa Sahib,
near the centre of the city, and ad-
joinmg the Old Palace. On the facade
are a number of mythological pictures,
much defaced by tne weather. On the
N. aide of the court is a vast hall, one
of the largest in India. In the front
court are the oflBces of the collector
and his assistants, and W. of the hall
are those of the judge. The roof is
sapported by sixty-four teak pillars,
besides four in front The Old Palace
is very shabby, and quite deserted.
About 200 yds. beyond this is a pretty
garden and villa belonging to Kajah
Ram, who was adopted by the late
Ram. He is in possession of the crown
jewels of the Satara family, and of
Jai Bhawani, the famous sword of
Shivaji, and his other arms. The
sword is 3 ft. 9 in. long in the blade,
and the handle is 8 in. long, but so
smull that a European can hardly get
his hand into it. Like most of the
famous blades in India, it is of Euro-
pean make, and has the stamp of Genoa.
The fFaghnakhj or " tig«r*8 claw," with
which Shivaji woumled Afzal Khan,
consists of four steel claws, with rings
which pass over the first and fourth
fingers, but are too small for a European
hand. The shield is of rhinoceros hide,
and has four Htars or bosses of diamonds.
The gold casket for holding Shivaji's
seal is ornamented with diamonds,
rubies, pearls, and emeralds, and there
is an inkstand and penholder of gold
similarly begemmed. The quilted coat
which Shivaji wore when he murdered
Afzal Khan may also be seen. It is
lined with chain armour, which is
hidden by thick masses of ptidding and
silk, embroidered with gold. It is
very heavy. The dagger is very hand-
some, and is 18 in. long. The dia-
monds, emeralds, and rubies in the
handle are very fine.
The gate of the Fort is on the N.
side, and a very steep zigzag path leads
up to it The ascent lies at first along
the foot of a ridge. After J m. or so,
the ridge is crossed, and the path pro-
ceeds along the brink of a precipice
which looks utterly impracticable. The
gate is of stone, and very strongly
built, with buttresses 40 ft high.
The interior of the Fort is now nearly
desolate. There are only a few bunga-
lows, with one small pagoda, and an
hospitaL The Fort is said to have
been built by a Raja of Panhala, who
reigned in 1192.^ By him, too, were
erected the forts of Hairatgarh and Pan-
dugarh, near Wai, and Chandan and
Wandan, near Satara. Long before
the time of the 'Adil Shahi dynasty at
Bijapur, the fort of Satara was usea as
a state prison, and Shivaji, who cap-
tured it in 1673, after a siege of several
months, unwittingly fumi»ied for his
descendants a prison in which they
were for years confined. In 1698, at
the suggestion of Ramchandra Pant,
Satara was made the capital of the
1 Grant Duff, vol. L p. 260.
d by Google
^96
ROUTE 22. pooifA iro aoA
India
Maratha Government. Next year Anr-
angzib with a great army arrived be-
fore the city and pitched 'his tents on
the N. side. 'Azim Shah was on the
W. side, at a village since called Shah-
pur. Shirzi Khan invested the S., and
Tarbiyat Khan occupied the E. (quarter.
Chains of posts between the different
camps effectually secured the blockade.
The Fort was defended by Pryagji
Prabhu, hawaldar, who had been reared
in the service of Shivaji. As the Moguls
advanced, he withdrew into the Fort, and
rolled down huge stones from the rock
above, which did great execution. The
blockade, however, was complete, all
communications were cut off, provisions
were exhausted, and the besieged mu&t
have been compelled to surrender had
not Parshuram Trimbak, who had
thrown himself into the Fort of Prali,
purchased the connivance of 'Azim
Shah, and conveyed stores to the be-
sieged. The grand attack was directed
against the IS.E. angle, which is one
of the strongest points, the rock being
42 ft. high, with a bastion on the top
of 26 ft. of masonry. Tarbiyat Khan
undertook to mine this angle, and at
the end of four and a half months had
completed two mines. The storming
party, confident of success, was formed
under the brow of the hilL Aurangzib
moved out in grand procession to view
the attack, and the garrison, and among
them Pryagji, attracted by the splen-
dour of his retinue, crowded to the
rampart. The first mine burst several
fissures in the rock, caused a great
part of the masonry to fall inwards
and crush many of the garrison to
death ; but the second and larger
mine burst outwards with a terrible
explosion, and destroyed upwards of
2000 of the besiegers. Pryagji was
buried by the first explosion close to a
temple to Bhavani, but was dug out
alive. This was regarded by the Ma-
rathas as a happy omen, and, animated
by it, the gamson would have made
a prolonged and desperate defence,
but provisions fell shoi-t, and 'Azim
Shah would no longer connive at their
introduction. Proposals of surrender
were therefore made through him, and
the honour of the capture, which he so
ill merited, was not only assigned to
him, but the very name of the place, in
compliment to him, was changed by
the Emperor to 'Azim Tara.
In 1705 the Fort was retaken by the
Marathas, through the artifice of a
Brahman named Anaji Pant. He in-
gratiated himself with the Moguls
under the character of a mendietnt
devotee, amusing them with stories
and songs, and, being allowed to reside
in the Fort, introduced a body of
Mawalis, and put every man of tie
garrison to the sword. Satara sur-
rendered to the £n(.li)h in 1818, and
Pratap Sing, eldest son of Sahu 11^
was install^ as Raja. He held tlie
principality twenty-one years, and w»
sent prisoner to Benares in 1839, being
succeeded by his brother, Apa Sahib,
on whose death, in 1848, the territor;
was annexed.
The view from the Fort is very beauti-
ful, over hills rising in every direction,
of varied form, and some crowned with
old forts now crumbling to decay ; on
a wide plain, opening out from the
town, are the CantonmerUt the Resideneyt
with its fine garden, and beyond, many
gardens and groves. Through tiiis
plain runs a broad excellent road,
shaded by an aveAue of trees to the
Sangam, or junction of the rivers
Krishna and Yena at the beautiful
village of Mahuli.
There are many beautiful rides at
Satara, and gooa sport to be had.
Quail are plentiful and fiorictm may
sometimes be found in the neighbour-
hood. Foxes are numerous, and are
coursed with greyhounds, affording
excellent sport. Bears, panthers, and
cheetahs may occasionally be found.
Hahuli. — This pretty place, at the
confluence of the Krishna and Vena
rivers, is about 8 m. £. of Satara, and
thoroughly deserves a visit It is con-
sidered a place of great sanctity, and
the dead from Satara and the surround-
ing villages are brought there for crema-
tion. Descending the river, the first
temple is Kshetra MakfUi, bnilt in
1825 and dedicated to Radha Shankar.
The temple is of basalt, and consists of
a shrine and verandah, supported by
three small scalloped arches ; the dome
d by Google
ROtTTE 22. MIRAJ — KOLHAPtJR
297
is of brick, and conical, but broken up
into gradually -diminishing rows of
stucco ornamentation, in which are
niches filled with images. On the
same side of the river is the temple of
BhoUshtoar MahadeOf built in 1742.
The next temple is on the same bank,
dedicated to Kameshwar, and was built
in 1700 A.D. Looking from the oppo-
lite bank, one is struck with the very
fine flight of steps leading up to it from
the river-bed. Close to the junction
of the rivers, on the W. bank of the
Krishna and the N. of the Yena, is the
Temple of Sangameshwar Mahadeo.
Two flights of steps lead from the bank
of the Krishna to a door in the wall of
the temple court. In front is the sacred
bull under a canopy, supported by four
mllars. The architecture is pure Hindu.
This temple was built in 1679. Below
it and at the junction of the rivers is a
triangular plot of ground, with the
tombs of the Gusain named Banshapwrij
and his disciples. That of the Gusain
is an octagonal building of gray basalt,
with open sides surmounted by a low
dome. The largest of the temples is
on the S. side of the Yena, at its con-
fluence with the Krishna. It is sacred
to Vishveshvar Mahadeo, and was built
in 1735 A.D. It is of basalt, and en-
closed by an irregular-shaped court-
yard open on the side of the river, from
which it is approached by steps. It is
a building of pure Hindu architecture.
The animal forms carved in the capi-
tals of the pillars and the cornices
deserve notice.
There are besides these a great num-
ber of other temples. In one observe
a statue of a dog sitting, which marks
the burial-place of a favourite black
greyhound of Raja Sahu, called Veda-
raja, or ** Mad Kin^." This dog saved
the Rajah's life by its ftirious barking,
calling the prince's attention to a tiger
which was m the act of springing on
him (see Grant Duff, vol. ii. p. 30).
The Raja dressed out the dog m gold
brocade covered with jewels, and put
his own turban on its head when he
was about to receive two Maratha chiefs
in fall court. He also kept a palanquin
establishment for the dog. There are
also some tombs here to widows who
performed sati. The last sati took place
m 1836.
160 m. Miraj junc. sta. (R.), D.B.
[A branch line, constructed altogether
at the cost of the Kolhapur state, runs
W. to the capital —
29 m. Kolhapur sta., D.B. (pop.
89,000), is the capital of a native state
with a total area of about 2816 sq. m.
It has been celebrated for centuries on
account of the antiquity of its temples,
and is now also distinguished for its
good, well-designed modem buildings.
The Raja traces his descent from the
Maratha chief Shivaji.
His New PaloM, between the Resi-
dency and the city, was built at a cost
of 700,000 rs., and is a very prominent
object in the landscape.
The Albert Edward Hospital was
built in commemoration of the Prince
of Wales's visit to India, and contains a
portrait of him.
Opposite is the Town Hall, situated
in the Public Gardens. The Bigh
School, a handsome pile of buildings, is
near the Old Palace in the centre of the
town, and fronting it is the Native
General Library, The Political Agent's
House is a handsome building. 800 yd s.
W. of the D.B. is All Saints' Church,
served by the S.P.G. clergy, whose
Mission -fumse is 300 yds. off, ^ m.
S.W. of the Political Agent's house.
The Ladies' Association of the S.P.G.
have 8 schools and a Mission-house in
the town.
A Nakar Khana, or "Music Gallery,"
forms the entrance to the Palace Square,
To the right on entering is the
Bajwada, or Old Palace, with a stone
gateway in the centre and wooden
pillars. On the second story is a
Darbar-room, with portraits of Aka
Bai, mother of the late chief of Kagal,
and of Ahalya Bai, adoptive mother of
the late Bajah, Rajah Ram. There is
also a picture of the mausoleum at
Florence erected over the spot where
Raja Ram's body was burned. He
died there returning from a visit to
England. In the third story is an
Armoury, in which are many curious
swords, one of which must have belonged
to Aurangzeb, for it has in Persian
the name 'Alamgir, and the date 1012
Digitized by VjOOQIC
298
ROUTE 22. POONA TO OOA
India
A.H. There is also a Persian sword
given b^ Sir John Malcolm to the Raja
of !.is time.
In the S. face of the square is the
Treasury. In 1857 it was the scene
of a remarkably heroic defence by
Kaska Ubari, a native officer, in the
face of an overwhelming force of rebels.
Adjoining the Treasury, in the S.
face of the square, are otlier Oovem-
ment Offices^ and behind them the shrine
of Arnha Baiy the tutelary deity of
Kolhapur. The main portion of the
building is built of black stone from
local quarries. The carved stonework
below the dome resembles the style of
Jain temples of the 12th century in
Eanara. The Jains claim this temple,
and say it was dedicated to Padmavati.
In the centre of the E. side of the
court is the adytum, where is the
image of Amba RaL A brazen image
of the goddess is carried lountl the
town in a triumphal car on the 15th of
April. The great bell of the temple is
inscribed, "Ave Maria Gratise Plena
Dominus Tecum," and must have been
obtained from the Portuguese about
the year 1739.
From the palace the streets diverge
as radii and join concentric lanes run-
ning parallel to the roads which occupy
the place of the old walls pulled down
in 1881. Some interesting Buddhist
remains have been discovered near
Kolhapur, which testify to the an-
tiquity of the place, including a crystal
casket of the 3d century, found in a
tope in the neighbourhood.
N. of the town is a sacred spot, the
Brahmapuri Hill, where the Brahmans
undergo cremation. About 1 00 yds. N.
of this, close to the Panchganga river,
is what is called the JRanis Garden,
where the bodies of the ruling family
are burned.
From this spot is seen a bridge over
the river, with five arches, finished in
1878 at a cost of £14,000. Beyond
Rani's Garden is a massive stone gate-
way, 20 ft. hij(h, which leads to the
Cenotaphs of Raja Sambhaji, just op-
posite the door to that of Shivaji, and
more to the left, those of Tara-Bai and
*Ai Bai.
The Kolhapur Light Infantry lines
are at Bawra, a village 3 m. from the
town. They are exceptionally well kejjt
It appeal's that in ancient times
Kolhapur was subject to earthquakes ;
and in making extensive excavations
many temples and other buildings
were discovered which had been OTer-
whelmed with earth.
Bock-cut Caves are found in various
places, one in the Panhala Fort, aid
another at the Panda Darah, 6 m. W.
of Panhala, which is at the head of a
wooded chasm on a hill 1000 ft. above
the plain, but none of these places aie
to be compared with others that have
been fully described.
The conduct of the Kolhapur troops,
led by turbulent persons, has on several
occasions been the cause of very aerions
troubles, which in 1843 culminated in a
rebellion, and was not suppressed with-
out serious fighting.
In January 1845 a British oflScer
was appointed Political Supeiiutendent
of the Kolhapur state, a brigade was
stationed in the vicinity of the town,
and various measures of reform were
introduced into the government with
the happiest results. Kolha]mr, how-
ever, was one of the few places in the
Bombay Presidency which took jmu t in
the di««a8trous rebelli<m of 1857. The
mutineers broke open the store-guard,
stole arms, and carried off public treasure
to the amount of 45,000 rs.
[Hill'foi'ts of Panhala and Pawan-
gadh. — Before leaving Kolhapur, the
traveller should pay a visit to Panhala,
which lies 12 m. to the N.W. of the
capital. There is an excellent road all
the way right into the Fort At 7 m.
from Kolhapur tonga ponies should be
changed. The last 5 m. is a steep
ascent. Jotiba's Hill, close by the
road, is covered by a labyrinth of
sacred temples and gateways. None
of the present temples are of great age.
The three principal ones are dedicated
to Shiva, and built of fine blue basalt
In the same hill are some old rock-cut
cells. Pawala Caves, near Jotiba's Hill,
consist of one lai^e hall 34 ft. sq. with
fourteen pillars. The inner walls have
been cut into cells. Outside to the lefl
is a very irregular Chaitya cave, 31 ft
d by Google
ROUTE 22. PANHALA, GOKAK, BELGAUM
299
deep and 16J ft. wide in front, with
lemains of dagobas. In the centre
of the hill is a line of trees, and here
steps are hewn in the rock which lead
to the temples, the whole distance bein^j
about 4 m. Jotiba is about 2600 ft.
above the sea. The traveller will pass
under the scarp of Pawangadh, a fort
which is about 1500 yds. from the E.
gate of Panhala. Panhala is !?992 ft.
above sea- level, and, though not so hiih
as Mahabaleshwar, the climate i
cooler, for the thermometer '««'s n«)t
rise above 70*.
The Fortress of Panhala, one of the
most interesting in the W. of India,
standing up boldly at the top of a rocky
height, was the stronghold of a Raja
in 1192 who reigned over the territory
from Mahadeo Hills N. of Satira to
the river Hiranyakeshi. It was tnken
by the Kings of Bijapur, who restored
it in 1549 ; was capture*! in 1659 by
Shivaji, who made some of his most
successful expeditions from it ; and
surrendered to the Moguls in 1690 ;
and in 1844 was stormed and taken by
the English. At the Char Darwazah^
or quadruple gate, is a temple to
Maruti ; passing on, there is a Moham-
medan tomb of granite on the 1. con-
verted into a school ; and a little farther
onatemple ofSambhaji on the same side
of the road. The Shivaji Tower (1600
A.D.) is a conspicuous building of two
stories, facing E. and standing at the
brink of a precipice. It is now occupied
by the Political Agent as his summer
quarters, and commands an extensive
view. On one side is a tolerably level
piece of ground, where are the bungalow
of the American Mission on the right,
and the D.B. on the left, and near it
a ruined pavilion. About J m. S.W.
of the tower are the stone granaries
which enabled Shivaji to stand a siege
of five months. They are 30 ft high,
57 ft. broad, and 130 ft. long. At the
W. side of the fort is the Tin Darvjazah,
a triple gate handsomely sculptured.
To the right, at about 40 yds. distance,
is the place where the English breached
and stormed the fort in 1844. Any
one who examines this spot will admire
the courage and vigour of the soldiers
who could ascend, under the fire of the
enemy, so steep an approach. About
parallel with this, near the Char Dar-
wazah aforesaid, and ovei hanging the
scarp, is the Hang Mahalj a pavilion used
for the Mohammedan ladies when Pan-
hala belonged to Bijapur. To the S.,
}»eyond the school, is a square-domed
building, said to be the Tomb of
Shaikh IS' ad t( -din Kattal. Near Sado-
ba's Temple is an old lank, built 1497,
into which scores of Urahmani women
threw themselves when our soldiers
stormed the fort.]
Returning to Miraj June, the line
continues to
209 m. Gk>kak Bead sta. (R.)— Four
m. from here are the falls of the Ghat-
parba river known as the Gk>kak Falls.
The traveller must take provisions
with him, and should communicate
with the station-master at Gokak and
ask him to make arrangements for a
conveyance. In the rainy season the
falls are very fine, but at other times
of the year the volume of water is
insignificant. The height of the fall
is 176 ft. and the pool below is very
deep. Near the falls, on both banks,
are groups of old temples. There are
remains of many dolmens S.E. of the
village of Konur, 1 m. from the falls.
The Gokak Canal, an important irriga-
tion work, starts from here.
244 m. Belgaum sta. (R.), D.B., a
civil and military cantonment (pop.
23,000), is called by the natives Shah pur
Belgaum, from the neighbouring ja^r
of Shahpur, which lies to the S. It is
situated in a plain about 2500 ft. above
the sea, with low hills in the distance ;
the Fort being at the E. extremity,
the town, which contains nothing of
especial interest, lies in the centre, and
the cantonment to the W.
The Fort is built of stone, oval in
shape, with earthen ramparts and a
ditch. To the N. is a large tank, and to
the S. rice-fields. The entrances are on
the N.W. and S.W. sides ; and within
are an arsenal, a barrack, and some
bungalows of c i vilians and others. This
Fort was taken by Brig. -General, after-
wards Sir, T. Munro, on the 10th of
April 1818.
In the passage, through the ^teway
which curves to a second gate, is a row
Digitized by VjOOQIC
300
ROUTE 22. POONA TO GOA
India
of arches with some good carving. At
120 yds. distant is the ruined Nakar
Khana, or music gallery, and on the left
is the Fort Ghurdi. containing memorial
tablets to C. J. Manson, C.S., who was
murdered by a band of rebels in the
night of the 29th May 1858, and to
Lieut. W. P. Shakespeare, A. P.
Campbell, and Ensign W. Caldwell,
who all fell in the insurrection of Kol-
hapur and SawantwadL
Beyond the Nakar Ehana to the E.
is a neat plain mosque, and farther S.
a Jain Temple^ built of laterite.
There is a low wall at the entrance,
alon^ which are carved figures of
musicians. The fa9ade has four pillars
and two pilasters, all of a very com-
plicated character. The inscription in
the old Eanara language, beautifully
cut on a slab of black porphyry, which
once was here, and is now in the Museum
of the Bombay Asiatic Society, states
that Malikarjuna, whose descent for
three generations is given, built the
temple.
The second Jain Temple is within the
Commissariat Store Yard, and is very
much finer than that outside. The
roof is a most complicated piece of
carving, rising in tiers, with eaves
about 2 ft. broad, which rest on bar-like
corbels from the pillars. The principal
entrance faces the N.W., and has one
elephant remaining at the side, much
mutilated, — there is a quadruple pend-
ant in the centre. The niches are
shell-shaped. There are four portals,
7 ft. square each, and each with four
black hasalt pillars. « There is no
image. Mr. Burgess says : " The
pillars of the temple are square and
massive, but relieved by having all
the principal facets, the triangles on
the base and neck carved with floral
ornamentations. In the front wall of
this chamber (the third), which is 3 ft.
7 in. thick, are two small recesses,
closed by sliding stones 1 ft. 9 in.
high. The door leading from the man-
dapam to the temple has been carved
with uncommon care. On the centre
of the lintel is a Tirthankar, and above
the cornice are four sauat human
figures. On the neat coionnettes of
the jambs are five bands with human
groups, in some of which the figures
are little more than an inch high, yet
in high relief ; inside this is a baud of
rampant Sinhas, with a sort of h^h
frill round the neck of each. Outside
the coionnettes is a band of ehakioas^ or
sacred geese, another of Sinhas, and
then one of human figures, mostly on
bended knees."
To the S.E. of this temple is i
mosque called the Musjid-i-Safa. Over
the entrance a Persian inscriptioD
records its being built in 1619 a.d.
Belgaum was taken by Ehwajak
Mahmud Gawan, the general of Mu-
hammad Shah, in 1472. As'ad Khan
Suri, otherwise called Ehurram Turk,
was a gigantic warrior, who held Bel-
gaum against all assailants for a num-
ber of years in the beginning of the
16th century. There is a round seat,
very solid and heavy, and about 4
ft. high, in front of the mosque, on
which As'ad Ehan is said to have
often sprung when dressed in full
armour.
There are two cemeteries, the new
one, which is well kept and planted
with flowers, being IJ m. W. of the
Fort.
SL Mary's Church stands in the can-
tonment N.W. of the town. It was
consecrated in 1869. There is a hand-
some Memorial Cross in the compound
to twenty -three sergeants of H.M.'s
64th, who died during the Persian and
Indian campaigns, 1866-58.
The Tomb of As'ad Khan is at the
N. end of the Sadar Bazaar, 100 yds. to
the S. of the Roman Catholic Church.
It is a plain square building of stone,
with a dome, and no inscription.
The Race-course lies to the N.W. of
this building, and it is a pleasant drive
to it.
[EXCUESIONS.
At Sutgati, 14 m. from Belgaum,
there are two Indian fig-trees of very
great size. The - first is near the
D.B. The stem forms a wall of
timber extending 40 ft. and rises to a
great height ; the branches spread out
100 ft. round the trunk. The other
tree is about 1 m. from the bungalow,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 22. 8AMPGA0N, SAUNDATI, HULI
301
ftod though not remarkable for height,
coders a larger surface of ground.
Eadaroli, anciently caUed Kadara-
villi, a village on the river Malparba,
is 8 m. from Mugut Khan Hulli,
\i^ich is the second stage on the Dhar-
war road from Belgaum, and about 18
lA. as the crow flies from Belgaum.
It possesses a ruined Temple to Sharikar
Deva, of black stone, in the bed of the
river, and inaccessible during floods.
The central shrine is 8 ft. 3^ in. square,
and each of the two side ones 6 ft. 6^
isw The pillars of the mandapam and
Xwrtico to the central temple remain ;
but the roofs and the capitals of all
the columns have been carried off by
the river. This temple is interesting
from its antiquity and its singular
position in the oed of the river.
At Sampg^n, 7i m. N. by £.
from Kadaroli, is a well-proportioned
mosfjuo. Over the Mihrab is a band-
some Tughra inscription, containing
parts of the 6th, 12th, and 61st Surahs
of the Koran. About 7 m. £. of
Sampgaon is the village of Bail ffangal,
where is a temple which dates from
about 1200 A.D. This temple is about
54 ft. long, and 33 ft. broad.
Saundati, about 18 m. to the K of
Bail-Hangal, and 40 m. E. of Bel^um,
has a temple to Bbavani. It is in the
Fort, and was built by the Desai of
Nargund.
About 1 m. due S. of Saundati is
the celebrated temple of Yellama, at
Parasgad. It is built in the bed of
the Sarasvati, a small stream which runs
£. from the hills above Saundati. The
temple is said to be 2000 years old,
but was rebuilt in the beginning of the
13th century, and again, except perhaps
the shrine, at the end of the 17th
century. It stands in the middle of a
court, surrounded by arcades with
pointed arches. In the W. gate are
some pillars like those of the Jain
tem(>les at Belgaum, and on the base
of one is an inscription covered with
whitewash*
Hnli, a village 9 m. to the N.E. of
Saundati, has a temple of Panchalinga
Deva, built by the Jains about 1100.
On two pillars of the outer mandapam
are Kanarese inscriptions. At the foot
of the hill to the N. of the village is
a group of ruined temples ; one built
of hara compact bluish stone has a
mandapam 43 ft from N. to S. The
four central pillars are similar to those
at Belgaum, only the snake is wanting
on the bracket. The short pillars on
the screen are very varied, hexagonal,
octagonal, and circular. The door-
way of the shrine is of porphyry, richly
carved, and on the lintel is Shri or
Lakshmi, with elephants pouring water
over her. At 6 m. to the N. W. from
Huli is the village of MaTutuli, where
are eight temples to Panchalinga Deva,
of coarse-grained stone, no way re-
markable for carving. The snake head
on the bracket and their general style
would lead us to assign these temples
to the same age as those at Belgaum,
that is, to the end of the 12th century.
From Manauli to Badami is two
marches. Badami is described in Rte.
23.]
277 m. Londa June sta. (R.) (Lines
E. to Bezwada at the delta of the Kistna
river. S. E. to Bangalore and Madras. )
292 m. Castle Rock sta. (R.) Here,
at the frontier of the Portugniese terri-
tory of Gk>a, the S. Maratha line is
joined by the W. of India Portuguese
Rly. , which in 61 m. reaches the coast
at Marmagoa, the seaport of Goa.
In the course of the first 10 m. from
the frontier the line passes through a
dozen tunnels, ranging from 150 to 838
ft. in length, which had to be cut
almost entirely out of the solid rock.
Apart fi'om its commercial importance,
the line possesses much interest for
lovers of the picturesque, as it runs
through magnificent scenery.
8^ m. from Castle Rock is Dudh
Saugar sta., or the "sea of milk,"
where there is a veiy fine waterfall.
61 m. The terminus of the rly. is on
the quay at the Port of Marmagoa,
which, as well as the line, is the pro-
perty of the West of India Portuguese
Kailway Company ; and arrangements
have been made so that the trade is as
free there as in British India.
The British India Steam Navigation
Company run vessels to and from Bom-
bay in 26 hours.
d by Google
302
ROUTE 22. POONA TO GOA
Iniii
In approaching Goa from Bombay by
sea the steamer enters a spacions har-
bour formed by two estaanes, with the
island of Goa in between them, and
embraced by two rocky promontories.
At the extremity of the S. arm is the
landing-place and quay of Marmagoa,
where a steamer of 4000 tons can be
berthed. Here at the foot of a sandy clitf
is the Terminus mentioned above, of
the rly., which leaves on one side both
New and Old Goa on its way through
the territory. To reach them a small
steamer crosses the estuary of Marma-
goa, rounds the CabOy the W. point of
the island, enters the estuary of Agu-
ada, ascends the Mondavi, one of the
two rivers falling into it, and passes,
near its mouth, the fine Fortress and
Chv/rch of Reis Megos on the 1. On
the rt. is the island of Goa, and upon
it, at about 4 m. from Marmagoa, stands
New Ck>a,30c otherwise Paw/im, a
town of no pretence. It contains 9500
inhabitants, and more than half the
native population are Christian descend-
ants of Hindus converted by Jesuits.
A row of handsome buildings lines
the quay, including the Old Fort^ now
the residence of the Viceroy, who re-
moved hither from Old Goa about
1760, and in 1845 made this the seat
of Government and capital of the Por-
tuguese territory in India. Here also
is the Palace of the ArchMshop, who
is Primate of the Roman Catholic
Church in India, and assessor of the
Portuguese Viceroy in the Government.
Near it are the Barracks, which
hold the standing army of 300 men. In
front of them is a statue of Alfonso
d' Albuquerque, the founder of Old Goa.
The Telegraph Office is in a great
part maintained at the expense of the
British Government.
The ** &oa Boys," so well known in
Bombay and in other parts of India as
servants, come from Panjim.
A good road leads from New to Old
Goa about 5 m. higher up the valley,
at first crossing a causeway thrown
over the swamp to Ribamdar village.
From here cocoa-nut plantations and
dwelling-houses line the way, which
commands a fine view N. across the
river to the hilly wooded country be-
yond, and includes a conspicuous round
hill, crowned by a church aud convent-
ual buildings, upon the river-island of
Divar.
Old Goa (Goa Yelha) owes its ori|i;in
to Alfonso d* Albuquerque, who at Ae
head of a Portuguese expedition of 30
ships and 1200 troops attacked and
carried by storm after a severe strug^
a small Mohammedan town on tiie
coast of Malabar, 1510. On this site
he founded the Christian city. It rose
rapidly into prosperity and importanct^
and by the middle of the 16th cent
became the wealthiest city in all India,
the capital and seat of government of
the then vast Portuguese territory,
with a population of 200,000. Besides
this it was the first Christian colony
in the Indies, and the scene of the
mission labours of St. Francis Xavier.
But decay followed rapidly, first owing
to the attacks of the Dutch, whose
fleets blockaded its harbour ; and next
because, its site proving pestilential, it
became deserted by its inhabitants, of
whom in 1890 only 86 remained.^ It
is now literally a city of ruins, and is
so hidden from view by the foliage of
the jungle which has occupied it, that
the stranger approaches it unawares,
and drives into the midst unconscious
that he is traversing streets of empty
dwellings, whose stunted walls are
occupied by cocoa-nut and other tall
trees instead of human beings.
In the midst of all this ruin, Goa
remains a city of magnificent churches,
four or five ranking as first class and in
perfect preservation, though not iu the
best style of architecture, betraying the
degraded taste of the Jesuits.
The main street, the only straight one,
Rua Diretta, leads into a vast central
square composed of churches and con-
vents. The most imi)ortant of these
and the holiest, because it contains the
body of St. Francis Xavier, is St.
PauVs, commonly known as the Bom
Jesus, erected in 1594. Its handsome
fa^de runs on into that of another vast
1 Goa in ita palmy atate ia admirably dd>
scribed by Captain Marryat in his Phantom ,
Ship ; in its present atate by Graham Sand-
beig Afvnuya Jfo^ovine, November 1890.
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ROUTE 22. OLD QOA
303
bmlding with lofty halls and lengthy
corridors, all empty, the Convent of
the JeauitSy which though not finished
uitil 1590, Sd yt-ars after the death of
St Francis, haid the merit of rearing
aid sending forth over the world that
admirable and devoted band of mission-
aries, the children of that saintly man
who worked so hard for the salvation
of the heathen in India, China, Japan,
Paraguay, and N. America. The Order
was suppressed here in 1759, the other
monastic orders not till 1835, when
their property was confiscated to the
state. The endowments of the
churches, however, have not been for-
feited, and the Archbishop and the
secular clergy of Goa still receive allow-
ances from Government.
The Chnrch of Bom Jesoi may be
entered by a side door from the Jesuits'
College, passing the Sacristy, a spacious
haU, with wardrobes filled with rich
priestly robes. Near it hangs a portrait
of St Francis Xavier at the a^e of 44,
—a dark face of sweet expression.
The Tomb and Hhrine of St. Frcmcis
Xavier (1765) occupy a side chapel,
richly adorned ; the walls lined with
pictures illustrating some of the acts
of his life. The monument is a stately
structure, consisting of three tiers of
sarcophagi of costly jasper and marble,
the gift of the Grand Duke of Tuscany.
The upper tier is ornamented with
panels curiously wrought in coloured
marbles so as to represent scenes in the
life of the saint ; the whole is sur-
mounted by the silver coffin containing
the body, and adorned with reliefs also
in silver, and with figures of angels in
the same metal supportine a cross.
The coffin, weighing 600 marks of silver,
is unlocked by 3 keys, in the keeping
of the Viceroy, the Archbishop, and an-
other, and has been frequently opened,
disclosing to public view the body in
wonderful preservation. In 1614 came
an order from Pope Paul V. to amputate
the right arm and send it to Kome.
A relic-hunting lady followed suit by
biting off two of his toes ! Since then
it has shrunk to a mummy. In height
it measures only 4 ft. 6 in.
In the body of the church is a statue
of the saint, of solid silver, the gift of
Donna Maria, wife of Pedro II. and
Queen of Portugal; and behind the
high altar one in marble of Ignatius
Loyola.
250 yds. distant, on the opposite
side of tne square, stands the Cathedral
(St. Catherine), the church next in
importance to the Bom Jesus, and
known as the San Prima^ial, built
1623, 260 ft long, 180 wide, with
facade 116 ft hi^h, white-washed in-
side, with his:h altar at the W. end.
It alone of all the churches retains a
staff of priests, — 28 canons, who perform
the service throughout the year. On
looking from the terraced roof of the
Cathedral one cannot but think of the
solemn and terrible sights that have
been seen in the sc^uare below, when
the great bell of this church tolled to
announce the celebration of an Auto-
da-F6.
To the E., along the course of the
Rua Diretta, stood the Palace of 1M
awfvX Inquisition, with its dungeons
and prisons, suppressed in 1814, now
an overgrown heap of ruins an acre in
extent.
N.W. of the Cathedral is the Arch-
bishop's PalacCy a magnificent residence
still occupied ocasionally.
W. of the Cathedral is the once
gorgeous Church of San Francesco
d'Assisif the oldest here, having been
adapted from a mosque. It was, how-
ever, rebuilt 1521, except the porch,
which is original, and is in fair re-
pair.
Near the ruins of the Viceroy's
Palace, and about i m. N. of the
Church of Bom Jesus, is the Church of
St, CajetaUy perhaps the best preserved
here, built 1665, and surmounted by
a dome and by two low towers ; the
facade is of red laterite, white-washed.
It contains some life-sized portraits of
Portuguese vicerojrs. In the adjoining
monastery the Viceroy stops on his
periodical visits to Old Gca. Here the
archives of the city and some curiosities
of the arsenal are preserved.
Near the entrance to the town from
the S. are the Chv/rch and Convent of
St Monica, both empty, — a handsome
pile of buildings.
Other churches still intact in Goa
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304
ROUTE 23. HOTGI TO DHAEWAR
India
are OtMr Lady of the Rosary^ St. Antony
of Padua, SL Peter, St. Catherine's
Chapelf Owr Lady of the Mount.
Other churches and monasteries, etc.,
now in ruin are St. Augustine, St.
JohndiDio, Our Lady of Pity, Domini-
can and Carmelite Churches, St. Alexius,
St. ThoTnas, St. Martin's Chapel, Church
of the Holy Trinity, St. Bonaventure ;
besides Franciscan, Carmelite, Domini-
can, and Augustinian monasteries.
ROUTE 23
HOTGI TO BlJAPUE, BaDAMI, AND
Dharwab
Hotgi June. sta. (R) is 9 m. E. of
Sholapur, on the line from Bombay
to Madras (see Rte. 24). From Minch-
nal, the station before Bijapur, the
domes and minarets of the city are
plainly seen to the S.
59 m. BUAFUB^ 8ta.30c (originally
Vijayapura, city of victory) (R.), D.B.
The rly. sta. is E. of the city and close
to the Gol Gumbaz, the great tomb of
Muhammad 'Adil Shah.
Following Fergusson's account of the
origin of the *Adil family, it appears
that — such was the decay of the Bah-
mani dynasty of Kalbarga and Bedar
before the end of the 14th century —
the Hindus might have recovered their
original possessions in Southern India
but for the appearance in the field
of one of their opponents' ^nerals,
Yusaf Khan, a son of Amurath II., of
Anatolia. He was a Turk of pure
blood, and as it happens, bom in Con-
1 An admirable gnide to B^apur, by H.
Cousens, giving details of all the buildings,
anda valuable historical slcetch of the 'Adil
Shahi dvnasty, can be bought at the principal
booksellers in Bombay and Poona.
stantinople, though his mother Tas
forced to fly thence while he was still
an infant After a varied career, he
was purchased for the bodyguard at
Bedar, and soon raised himself to nch
pre-eminence, that in 1489 he was m*
abled to proclaim his independence, aad
establish himself as the founder of fte
'Adil Shahi dynasty of Bnapnr. Tie
following is the order of their soe-
cession : —
A.D.
Yusaf Khan,
'Adil Shah 1489
Ismail
1510
Mallu
„ 1534
Ibrahim I.
1534
'AUI.
1557
Ibrahim II.
1580
Muhammad
1627
•AH II.
1656
Sikandar
„ 1672 to 16
in which year the city was taken by
Aurangzeb. The king was captured
and brought before him in silver chiuns
and the 'Adil Shahi dynasty ceased to
exist.
The Kaladgi district was renamed
Bijapur in 1883 when Government
deciaed to reoccupy the old capital as
administrative headquarters of the dis-
trict. The area of the district is
5757 sq. m., and the pop. 638,500
and already its whole aspect is changed.
Great difficulty was experienced in
clearing ground for roads and houses
from the large areas of prickly pear
that had to be removed. The station
is now well planted with trees.
Torwah about 1610 A.D. was agreat
suburb, a rival city, to the W. of
Bijapur; but when Aurangzib took
Bijapur, Torwah was already "quite
depopulated, its ruined palaces only
remaining, with a thick wall surround-
ing it, whose stately gateways were
falling to decay." liiis suburb, then,
whose walls extended 3 m. from the
W. gate of the Fort, and probably other
suburbs which have now utterly per-
ished, must have been included in the
80 m. circuit which tradition ascribes
to Bijapur. What is called the city
now is the Fort, of which Grant Duff
says that it was 6 m. in circumference.
Within the walls of the Fort is the
Citadel, with walls extending 1660 ft.
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ROtJTE 23. BIJAPUR
305
from X. to S., and 1900 ft. from W. to
£. An examination of the buildings
wil give proof of the former riches and
magnificence of this old capital. Two
days will not be too much to devote to
the principal buildings alone.
The Oates of the fort or city are —
The Fateh Gate {ly in the centre of
tlie S. wall of the city, that by which
iurangzib is said to have entered.
The Shahpur Gate (2), on the N.W.
The gate itself is furnished with long
iron spikes on the outside to protect it
from being battered in by the elephants
of an enemy. This was a common
device throughout India. S. of it, on
the W. of the city, is the
In the centre of the N. wall is the
Bahmani Gate (7).
On the £. side of the city, close to
the rly. sta., is the Mattsoleum of Mu
hammad *Adil STuih^ seventh king, a
magnificent structure, generally called
the Gol Onmbas, or "Round Dome" (8)
and by some it is styled Gul Gumbaz, or
**Rose Dome." Mr. Fergusson, in his
Hist, of Indian Arch,, says of this
buildinc: This tomb of "Mahmud^
was in design as complete a contrast to
that " of Ibrahim II., described below,
*' as can well be imagined, and is as
remarkable for simple grandeur and
constructive boldness as that of Ibrahim
was for excessive richness and contempt
Zohrapur Gate (3) ; and 600 ft. to
the S. of that is the
Makka Gate (4), with representations
on either side of lions trampling on an
elephant. This gate is closed and con-
verted into a school. A less imposing
one (4a), a few hundred yds. farther
N., serves its purpose. Almost exactly
opposite to it on the other or K side
of the Fort is
'Alipur Gate (5), or High Gate,
wrongly called in maps and elsewhere
the Allahpur Gate. N. of it is the
Padshahpur Gate (6) near the rly.
sta.
* The numbers refer to the corresponding
numbers on the plan of Bijapur.
\India]
of constructive proprieties. It is con-
structed on the same principle as that
employed in the design of the dome of
the great mosque, but on so much larger
a scale as to convert into a wonder of
constructive skill what, in that in-
stance, was only an elegant architect-
ural design." It is built on a platform
600 ft. square and 2 ft. high. In front is
a great gateway, 94x88 ft., with a
Nakar Knana, music gallery, above.
The mausoleum is a square building
1 This kins is called at Bijapnr itself
Mnhammad, but the word Mahmud, which
signifies " praiseworthy," occurs in the second
inscription. He is called Mahmud in a paper
mentioned in the Indian Antiquary^ voL ii.
p. 2282. His name was MQhammad Mahmud
Digitized by VjOO^: X
306
ROUTE 23. HOTGI TO DHARWAR
Imdia
with sides measuring 196 ft (exterior),
and at each comer is a tower seven
stories high. In the centre is the great
dome, 124 ft in diameter, while that
of St Peter's is only 139, and that of
St. Paul's 108. Over the entrance are
three inscriptions — *' Sultan Muham-
mad, inhabitant of Paradise," *' Mu-
hammad, whose end was commendable,"
'* Muhammad, became a particle of
heaven (lit House of Salvation), 1067."
The date, three times repeated, is 1659
A.D. The surface of the building for
the most nart is covered with plaster.
Each fafaae has a wide lofty arch in
its centre, pierced with small windows
and a blind one on either side, and
above it is a cornice of gray basalt and
a row of small arches supporting a
second line of plain work, surmounted
by a balustrade 6 ft high. The comer
towers are entered from winding stair-
cases in the thickness of the walls of
the main building, and terminate in
cupolas. Each story has seven small
arched windows opening into the court
below. From the 8th story there is an
entrance to a broad gallery inside the
dome, which is so wide th&t a carriage
might pass round it Here there is a
most remarkable echo ; a soft whisper
at one point of the gallery can be heard
most custinctly at the opposite point,
and as Cousens says "one pair of feet is
enough to awaken the echoes of the tread
of a regiment " The great hall, 136 ft.
square, over which the dome is raised,
is the largest domed space in the world.
The intemal area of the tomb is 18,225
sq. ft., while that of the Pantheon at
Rome is only 15, 833. * * At the height
of 57 ft from the floor-line," says Mr.
Fergusson, " the hall begins to contract
by a series of pendentives as ingenious
as they are beautiful, to a circular open-
ing 97 ft in diameter. On the platform
of the pendentives the dome is erected,
124 ft in diameter. Internally, the
dome is 175 ft. high ; externally, 198
ft ; its general thickness beinff about
10 ft" ^ From the gallery outside there
i "The most ingenious and novel part of
the construction is the mode in which its
lateral and outward thrust is counteracted.
This was accomplished by forming the pen-
dentives so that they not only cut off the
angles, but that, as shown in the plan, their
is a fine view over BQapur. On the
K is 'Alipur ; on the w . are seen the
Ibrahim Koza, the Upari Buij, and the
Shaerza, or Lion Bastion, the unfinished
tomb of 'AH 'AdU Shah II., the Asar
Mahal, and about 1 m. in the sane
direction the ruins of the villages of fiie
masons and painters^ employed on fiie
Gol Qumbaz ; and on the S. W. is tie
dome of the Jumma Muqid. There is
a small annexe to the mausoleum on
the N. without a roof, built by Sultui
Muhammad as a tomb, it is supposed, for
his mother, Zuhra Sahibah, fromwhon
one of the suburbs was called Zuhrapor.
It was never finished or occupied.
Below the dome is the cenotaph of
Sultan Muhammad in the centre. On
the E. side are the graves of his youncest
wife and of the son of 'Ali 'Adil Shah
II. ; on the W. are those of his favoui-
ite dancing-girl Rhamba, his daughter,
and his eldest wife, mentioned by Ber-
nier. On the edge of the platform W.
is the mosque attached to the mauso-
leum, a building of no mean size and of
considerable beauty of design, but quite
eclipsed by the size of the Gol Gumoaz.
It is now disfigured by being converted
into the Traveller's Bungalow.
The Jumma Musjid (9), nearly i m.
Section of Domes, Jumma Mo^id.
S. W. of the Gol Gumbaz, is entered by
a gateway on the N. side. The snr-
arches intersect one another and frnra t
very considerable mass of masonry perfectly
stable in itself, and by its weight acting up-
wards, counteracting any thrust that can poi-
sibly be brought to bear upon It by the jn^ssora
of the dome." —FergiissoTi.
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ROUTE 23. filJAPXTR
307
tDimdilig wall was never completed on
tie £. The arcades on the ]N. and S.
ddes are 81 ft. broad. In the centre
•f the quadrangle is the hanz or tank
for ablutions, now dry. Mr. Fergnsson
says, "Even as it is, it is one of the
finest mosques in India."
It was conunenced by 'All 'Adil Shah
I. (1557-79), and though continued by
his successor^ was never completely
finished. If it had been completed, it
would have covered fi^m 50,000 to
55,000 sq. ft, and would have been
tiie size of a mediseval cathedraL
The mosque proper has a* facade of 9
bays, and is 5 bays in depth. Each of
the squares into which it is divided has
a domed roof, beautiftd, but so flat
as to be concealed externally. The
centre, a space 70 fk. square, corre-
sponding to 12 of these squares, is
roofed over by the great dome, which is
57 ft. in diameter. It is supported on
pendentives in the same manner as the
Gol Gumbaz. The pavement below
the dome is of chunam, divided by
black lines into numerous squares called
mu8cUla?i8, or compartments for persons
to pray on, imitating the musatlahj or
prayer-carpet, which the faithful carry
with them to the mosques. These
were made by order of Aurangzib when
he carried away the velvet carpets, the
large golden chain, and other valuables
belonging to the mosa ue. Mr. Molecey ,
at one time the arcnitect in charge of
the buildings here, states that the shikr,
or ornament at the top of the mosaue,
was filled with a sort of grain called
rura to give it weight.
The mihrab, which marks the place
on the W. to which the people turn
hi prayer, is gilt and ornamented
with much Arabic writing, but there
is aJso a Persian quatrain, which may
thus be translated —
.Rest not in the Palace of Life, for it is not
secore,
None can rest in a bnilding, which is not
meant to endore,
Fair in my sight seems the World's halting-
place,
A 8"weet treaanre is Life, but 'tis gone without
leaving a trace.
This Arch was built in the time of the reign
of Sultan Muhammad Shah.
The date of the ornamentation is
1686.
The Mehtar Mahal (10) is the name
given to the entrance gateway to the
Mehtar Mosque, a building of minor
importance. It stands between the
Jumma Musjid and the citadel, on the
S. of the road. It is a small but elegant
structure, three stories high, with minar-
ets at the comers and ornamental carv-
ing in soft stone about its balconied
and projecting windows. It may be
observed in explanation of its name,
that when the Hindustani language
arose in the Urdu, or camp, of the
Mogul emperors, the Persian soldiers
gave nicknames to various persons,
which took their place in the language :
thus, a tailor was called Knalifa,
"Caliph"; a waterman was called
Bihishti, " an inhabitant of Paradise " ;
and a sweeper, the lowest of the low,
was called Mihtar, **a prince." The
story is that Ibrahim Shan had a disease
which his physicians could not cure,
and the astrologers told him that his
only chance was to give a large sum to
the first person he saw next morning.
The king looked out of the window
very early and saw a sweeper, on whom
he bestowed a vast sum, and the poor
fellow, not knowing what to do with
it, built this mosque. Mr. Fergusson
says of this structure: "Perhaps the
most remarkable civil edifice is a little
gateway, ^own as the Methuri MahaL
It is in a mixed Hindu and Moham-
medan style, every part and every
detail covered with ornament, but
always equally appropriate and elegant.
Of its class it is perhaps the best
example in the country, though this
class may not be the highest"
The palace of the Asar-i-Sharif (11),
"illustrious relics," which are hairs of
the Prophet's beard, is a large heavy-
looking Duilding of brick and lime, and
just outside the moat of the inner
citadel and the centre of its E. ram-
part. The E. side is entirely open
from the ground to the ceiling, which
is supported by 4 massive teak pillars
60 ft. high. Tjiis forms a deep portico
86 ft broad, and looks upon a tank
250 ft sq. The ceiling of the verandah
j or portico is panelled m wood and has
been very handsomely painted. The
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308
ROUTE 23. HOTGI TO DHARWAR
Ifldk
whole of the W. side is occupied by
rooms in two stories. On the right of
the staircase ascending to the upper
rooms is a suite of aps^ments, in the
first of which are cases for books. They
contained MSS. of some value, which
were sent by Sir B. Frere to Bombay.
He also preserved the portico by build-
ing a solid square prop and other sup-
ports. The ^eater portion of tne
MSS., it is said, were previously re-
moved by Aurangzib. Remark here a
very fine piece of ruddy marble with
shells embedded in it, which is in one
of the arches of the portico. The flight
of stairs ascends to a hall 81 ft. long
and 27 ft. broad, where a few of the
fine carpets which the palace once con-
tained are shown. Opening rt. from
this hall is an upper verandah or ante-
chamber which looks down into the
portico (already described) below. Its
ceilings and walk have been gilt ; the
doors are inlaid with ivory ; and in
the palmy days of Bijapur the effect
must have been very strildng. In the
N. wall is the entrance to the room in
which the sacred hair is kept, and this
is opened only once a year. Two rooms
to the S. are beautituUy painted with
vases of flowers. All these rooms were
defaced and spoiled by the Marathas.
The Kaja himself is said to have set
the example in scrai)ing off" the gilding,
and his followers imitated him only too
well. They picked out the ivory that
inlaid the doors, and otherwise so in-
jured the rooms as to reduce this once
splendid palace to the state of an
unsightly bam. It is also stated that
Aurangzib was so incensed at seeing
paintings of figures on the walls of a
Duilding devoted to a sacred purpose,
that he directed the faces to be obliter-
ated. The Asar - i - Sharif formerly
communicated on its W. side with the
citadel by means of a bridge, of which
nothing now remains but the piers.
Originally built as a court of justice by
Muhammad Shah about 1646, it suc-
ceeded to the honour of holding the
precious relics of the Prophet after a
similar building within the citadel
had been burned down.
The Arkilla or Citadel.— The only
citadel gateway that remains is at the
extreme S., facing E. ; here the walls
are thick with ancient pillars and
sculptured stones, taken from Jain
temples which probably stood on this
ST>ot when the Mohammedans stormed
the citadeL The temples were demol-
ished by them and many of the stones
were used in rebuilding the walli ;
the rest were utilised in the construc-
tion of the 2 * *old mosques" within the
citadel.
The Old Mosque (12), a Jain temple
converted into a mosque, is within the
citadel N. W. of the gate. The central
mandapam, or hall, two stories high,
serves as the porch. The inner door-
way, with its perforated screens, is
Mohammedan work. The mosque
proper is made up of Hindu or Jain
pillars of various patterns and heights.
At the N. side, about the centre row,
notice a wonderfully handsome and
elaborately carved black pillar, and to
the N.E. of it an ancient Eanarese in-
scription. On several of the piUars
around are inscriptions, some in San-
scrit and some in Kanarese. One bears
the date 1320.
The Anand Mahal (18), or "palace
of joy," where the ladies of the seraelio
lived, is in the centre of the citadel.
It was built by Ibrahim II. in 1589,
and intended partly for his own use,
but the facade was never finished. It
contains a very fine hall, and is now
the Assistant-Collector's residence.
The Gagan Mahal (14), or "heavenly
palace," supposed to have been built
by 'AU 'Adil Shah I., is on the W. of
the citadel close to the moat, and faces
N. It has three magnificent arches.
The span of the central one is 61 ft,
and that of each of the side arches 18
ft. The height of all three is the same,
about 50 ft. It was used as a Durbar
Hall, and on the roof was a gaUeiy
from which the ladies could see what
occurred on the open space in front
It is said that here Aurangzib received
the submission of the king and the
nobles on the fall of Bijapur.
A small building to the S.E. of the
Gagan Mahal has been converted into
Digitized by VjOOQIC
BOUTE 23. BIJAPUB
ao9
(he Station Church (15). In plan it is
1 square ; the roof is supported by 4
pillars, and it is decorated with ex-
quisite relief patterns in flat plaster-
work. The beautifully wrought iron
screen was found in the Chini Mahal.
About 160 yds. to the N.E. of the
Gagan Mahal is another old mosque (16)
bunt with the stones of a Jain temple.
It has ten rows of pillars seven deep.
On the extreme W. of the citadel is
the Sat Manjli (17), or "seven stories,"
a pleasure-palace or perhaps a watch-
tower, from the top of which the whole
city could be overlooked. These strange
many-storied buildings are not un-
common in India, — e.g. there is a very
perfect one at Fatehpur-Sikri. Of
this onl^ 5 stories now remain. One
peculiarity is the number of water-
pipes and cisterns round about it. It
formed the N.E. comer of a vast build-
ing wrongly called the Oranary (18),
which was probably the public palace
of the kings, where their public and
private audiences were held.
At the S. end of this building is a
palace which at one time must have
teen of considerable importance. It is
called the Chini Mahal (19), from the
quantity of broken china found there,
and possesses a fine hall 128 ft. long.
In front of the Granary, in the centre
of the road, stands a beautifully orna-
mented little pavilion (20), the purpose
of which is unknown. From this the
moat of the citadel is crossed by a
causeway 140 ft. long, but the average
breadth of the moat may be taken as
150 ft
Within the citadel and to the N.E.
of the gateway is the Makka Musjid
(21), a miniature mosque of beautiful
proportions and great simplicity of
design. The massive minarets at the
comers of the high walls which surround
it in all probabili^ belonged to an
earlier building. The facade of the
mosque proper has 6 bays of arches
about 8 ft. high, is 2 bays deep, and is
surmounted by a dome.
Immediately to the W, 19 a huge
walled space which is thought to have
been an elephant stable (21a), and
adjoining it S. is a tower which was
probably used for the storage of grain.
The unfinished Tomb of 'AU 'AdU
Shah II. (22) is to the N. of the citadel.
It is a noble ruin, a square with seven
large Gothic -looking arches on each
side, constructed on a terrace 15 ft.
high, and 215 ft. sq. Had not the
death of the Sultan put a stop to its
progi'ess, and prevented its comnletion
m conformity with the original design,
it would have surpassed every other
building at Bijapur, both in ma^ifi-
cence and size. The cenotaph is in
the centre enclosure, which is 78 ft.
sq., and if completed would have been
crowned by a dome.
Close to this tomb on the S.W. is
Bukhara Musjid, now the Post Office
(23).
To the W. of the city, and near the
Makka Gate, are 2 domed tombs close
together and very much alike, known
by Europeans as **Tne Two Sisters"
(24). The octagonal one (now the house
of the Executive Engineer) contains
the remains of K7Mn Muhammad^
assassinated at the mstigation of Sultan
Muhammad for his treacherous dealings
with Aurangzib, and of his son K ha was
KhaUy Vazir to Sikandar. The dome
is nearly complete, and springs from a
band of lozenge-shaped leaves. The
space within forms a beautiful room.
The square building is the mausoleum
of Abdul Razakf the religious tutor of
Khawas Khan. It is a large building,
now much decayed. Near it S. is the
Tomby with its unfinished brick dome,
of Kishwar Khan^ whose father, Asad
Khan, is repeatedly mentioned by the
Portuguese. He founded the fort of
Dharur, in the time of 'Ali 'Adil Shah
I., and was taken and put to death by
one of the Nizam Shahi kings.
The Andu Musjid (25), 1608, stands
on the E. side of the road which nins
S. from the citadel. It is a 2-storied
building, the lower part fomiinga hall
and the upper part the mosijue projier
and its small court. The facade has 3
bays, it is surmounted by a fluted dome
Digitized by VjOOQIC
310
ROUTE 23. HOTGI TO DHABWAR
IndCa
and 4 small minarets, and the masonry
and workmanship are finer than that
of any other building in Bijapnr.
Khcmaa KharCB MahcU is 700 ft. N.
of the Jumma Muq'id. Yakvi DabtU'Cs
Tambtaid Mosque are N.E. of the citadeL
The tomb is square with stone lattice-
work screens. It was Yakut Dabuli
who decorated the mihrab of the Jumma
Musjid. Naioab Mustafa KhajCsMosqiief
600 yds. E. of the citadel, is a lofty
building with a fa9ade of 8 arches and
a central dome supported on penden-
tives. Behind the mosque W. are the
ruins of the Khan's Palace. Mustafa
Khan Ardistani was a distinguished
nobleman at the court of 'All 'Adil
Shah I., and was murdered in 1581 a.d.
by Eishwar Khan, who usurped the
regency in the time of Ibrahim 'Adil
Shah II.
Outside the W. wall of the city is
The Ibrahim Boza (pronounced
rauza) (26), a group of buildings which
includes the tombs of Ibrahim (II.)
'Adil Shah, his Queen Taj Sultana, and
4 other members of his &mily. Dr.
Bird says truly, "this tomb is de-
cidedly the most chaste in design and
classical in execution of all the works
which the Byapur sovereigns have left
behind them." The Ibrahim Roza is
400 yds. W. of the Makka Gate. This
magnificent building is said to have
been erected by a rersian architect.
It is enclosed by a strong widl with a
lofty gateway. The courtyard within
was once a garden ; in the centre of it
is raised an oblong platform upon which
stands the tomb, and to the W. of it a
mosque, with a fountain and reservoir
between them. The 5 arches which
form the £. fa9ade of the Mosque are
very graceful ; above them, under the
rich cornice, hang heavv chains cut out
of stone. On each of the four sides of
the Tonib is a colonnade of 7 arches,
forming a verandah 15 ft. broad round
the whole edifice. The pavement of this
colonnade is slightly elevated, and its
ceiling is exquisitely carved with verses
of the Koran, enclosed in compartments
and interspersed with wreaths of flowers.
The letters were originally gilt, and the
ground is still a most brilliant azuT^,
In some places the gilding also stfll
remains. The border of every oom>
partment is different from that of the
one adjoining. The windows aie
formed of lattice-work of Arabic sen-
tences, cut out of stone slabs, the spaos
between each letter admitting ths
light This work is so admirably exe*
cuted, that Colonel Sykes declares then
is nothing to surpass it in Indi^
Above the double arcade outside the
building is a magnificent cornice with
a minaret four stories high at eadi
comer and eight smaller ones between
them. From an inner cornice, with
four minarets on each side, rises the
dome. The plan of the building re-
sembles that of the tombs at Golkonda.
The principal apartment in the tomb
is 40 ft. sq^., with a stone-slab roof per-
fectly flat m the centre, and supported
only bv a cove projecting 10 ft. from
the waUs on every side. ' * How the roof
is supported is a mvsteiy which can
onljr he understood bv those who are
familiar with the use tne Indians make
of masses of concrete, which, with good
mortar, seems capable of infinite ap-
plications unknown in Europe. Above
this apartment is another in the dome
as ornamental as the one below it,
though its onl;^ object is to obtain ex-
ternally the height required for archi-
tectural effect, and access to its interior
can only be obtained by a dark, narrow
staircase in the thickness of the wall." ^
Over the N. door is an inscription in
Persian, extolling the building in very
exaggerated terms. The last line is a
chronogram, which gives the date
1036 A. H. = 1626 A. D. Over the S. door
is another inscription in praise of the
monarch, with the date 1633. Over
the same door is inscribed —
[Translation,]
The work of beaatifVing this MauBoleiun wm
completed by Malik SandaLt
1 From Fergnsson's Hist, of Indian ArA.
The aathor also eays "that Ibrahim, wanied
by the fkte of his predecessor's tomb, com-
menced his own on so small a plan, 116 ft.
sq., that it was only by ornament that he could
render it worthy of himself* Refer to Fw-
gusson also for further information conoenting
this exquisite building.
s The tomb of thi» personage is at Tikota.
i m. W. of the Makka Gate.
d by Google
BOUTS 23. BIJAFUR
311
T|i>143iiltan issued orders for tlie oonstraction
of thisBoza,
M the beanty of which Far&dise stood amazed.
Bb expended oyer it 1^ lakhs of hnns,
^d 900 more.
Ihe htm being 3} rs., the total expense
¥88 about £70,000. When Aurangzib
iiesieged B^apur in 1686 he took up his
([xiarters in the Ibrahim Roza, which
received some damage from the B\japar
guns. These iinuries were partially
repaired by the Kajah of Satara, but
the restoration was completed by the
English.
Gnns and BastionB. — The Buxj-i-
Sherza, or "Lion Bastion" (27), so
called from being ornamented by two
lions' heads in stone, is 500 yds. S. of
the Shahpur Gate. On the i^ht-hand
side on ascendin^^ the steps of the bas-
tion is an inscnption stating that it
was bnilt in five months, and giving
the date 1671. On the top of this
bastion is a huge gun, called the Malik-
i-Maidan, "Lord of the Plain." On
either side of the muzzle the represent-
ation of the mouth of a monster
swallowing an elephant is wrought in
relief. It was cast at Ahmednagar in
a blue metal which takes a very high
polish. It is 14 ft. long, the circum-
ference is about 13 ft. 6 in., and the
disumeter of the bore is 2 ft. 4 in. Just
above the touch-hole is the following
inscription : —
The work of Muhammad Bin Hosain Bumi.
At the muzzle is the following : —
The servant of the family of the Prophet of
God, Abu'l Ghazi Nizam Bhah, 966 a.h.»
1551 A-D.
At the muzzle is also —
In the 80th year of the exalted reign,
1097 A.H.. Shah 'Alarogir, conqueror of infi-
dels, King, Defender of the f^iith,
Conquered By apor, and for the date of his
torinmph,
He ftilflUed what Justice required, and an-
nexed the territory of the Shahs,
Success showed itself, and he took the Malik-
i-Uaidan.
About 150 vds. £. of the Sherza Buij
is a stranffe building, called the Upxi
Bar), or Upper Bastion, also called the
Sdidar Bwri (28), after a general of
'All I. and Ibrahim II. It is a tower
61 ft. high, oval in plan, with an out-
440 ^tairoaso. On the way up will be
noticed a Persian inscription recording
the building of the tower in 1583.
On the top are two guns made of
longitudinal oars held together with
iron bands. The larc^er, called the
Lamcharri, "far flier, '^ is 80 ft. 8 in.
long, and has a diameter of 2 ft. 5 in.
at the muzzle, and 3 ft. at the breech ;
the bore is 12 in. in diameter. The
other gun is 19 ft. 10 in. long, with 1
ft diameter at the muzzle, and 1 ft. 6
in. diameter at breech. In addition to
these there are several other large guns
lying about Bijapur.
There are several Tanks in Bijapur.
The principal one is the Taj Baoli, or
"Crown WeU" (29). It is 100 yds.
E. of the Makka Gate. The E. wing
of the facade of the tank is partly
ruined and partly used as a Eanarese
schooL The W. wing is occupied by
the municipal offices. Two flights of
steps lead down to the water beneath
an arch of 34 ft. span, and about the
same height, flanked by 2 tall octagonal
towers. The tank at the water's edge
is 231 ft. sq. The water comes partly
from springs and partly from drainage,
and is 30 fL deep in the dry weather.
There are many fish in it. Colonel
Sykes states that it was built by Malik
Sandal in Sultan Muhammad's reign ;
but according to Dr. Bird it was the
work of the Yazir of Sultan Muham-
mad. In the arcade to the right of
the weU remark the curious roof, the
rafters of which are of stone.
Water Works. —Bijapurwas supplied
with abundant water by underground
ducts. One source of supply was a
spring beyond the suburb of Torwah,
5 m. W. of the citadel ; another was
the Begam Tank, 3 m. to the S.
Along uie line of the supply water
occur towers supposed to be for the pur-
pose of relieving the pressure in the
pipes. The people evidently appreci-
ated the advantage of having plenty
of cool water about them, and traces of
innumerable baths and cisterns are
found in every direction. The water
from the reservoirs, for instance, in the
ruined palace of Mustafa Ehan, ran into
a tank, from which it brimmed over
Digitized by VjOOQIC
312
EOUTE 23. HOTGI TO DHARWAR
Ifdm
into narrow stone channels, which
passed in circnitous courses through the
gardens, passing over uneven surfaces to
give it a sparkling and rippling effect.
Many days might well De spent in
exploring the neighbourhood and visit-
ing the numerous objects of minor
interest in which Bijapur abounds, but
which it is beyond tne scope of this
book even to mention.
From Bijapur the line continues to
132 m. Badami sta. The N. fort of
Badami is to the N.E. of the town,
and on the heights above are some
picturesque temples. To the S. is
another rocky fort-crowned hill, in the
face of which are four cave -temples.
The two hills (about 400 ft. high)
approach so close to each other as to
leave only a gorge, into which the town
extends. Near it is a fine tank.
The Forts are no doubt of extreme
antiquity, and in some shape or other
probably existed as long back as the
Christian era. Little or nothingisknown
of their ancient history. In 1786
Badami was in the possession of Tipu
Sahib, and was attacked by the armies
of Nizam 'Ali and the Peshwa Mhadu
Rao. Their operations at first were not
successful, "but it was determined to
try the effect of an escalade. On the
morning of the 20th of May 20,000
infantry of the confederate armies were
drawn up for that service. The garri-
son, consisting of upwards of 3500 men,
manned the works to oppose them ;
and when the assailants advanced,
which they did with great resolution,
they founa the ditch and covered-way
full of mines, which were fired, and
proved exceedingly destructive ; but
the Marathas and Moguls, vjdng with
each other, rushed forward in a most
impetuous though tumultuous manner,
applied ladders, mounted the walls in
various places, and, except a slight
check sustained at the citadel, carried
all before them within the town. " The
garrison fled to the forts above, and
rolled down huge stones upon their
assailants, whose ** casualties were
numerous ; but the garrison, becoming
intimidated at their furious and perse-
vering attack, offered to surrender if
their lives were spared, a condition
which was immediately granted." (See
Grant Duff, voL iiL p. 10.) The fort
was taken by the British under Sir
Thomas Munro in 1818.
The F&rt upon the N. hill in its
lower part includes much of the toin,
and this part is defended by a ditch
50 ft. deep. To view the fort the
traveller should start very early in 4e
morning, and proceed to tne gate of lie
lower fort, which faces to the S.W.;
and soon after passing it, and leaviig
on the left a Temple of Sanum\
ascend 120 ft. to a Temple o/MahaM
built of hard sandstone, whence he will
have an excellent view over the towi
and hills. Above the Temple of Maha-
deo rises a scarped rock 90 ft high,
round the edge of which runs |»rt of
the wall of tne upper fort, which is
now quite deserted, only one iron gun,
about 10 ft long, remaining. There
are two or three other temples, mostly
in the upper fort, which have a very
picturesque appearance. Descending
from the Temple of Mahadeo, aud
passing along to the E. portion of the
town, and close to the S. hill, will be
seen two Mohammedan tombs and &
mosque with several inscriptions m the
Tugnra character about two centuries
old.
The S. hill is also crowned with a
Fort J and contains in its W. face four
Cave Temples, which have rendered
Badami celebrated, thouj^h the natiiral
beauties of the scenery might well have
done so without assistance from art
The First Cave is about 30 ft. from
the ground, and faces W. Mr. Burgess
has given views of these caves, and an
exceUent account of them. He says :
"They stand as to arrangement of
parts between the Buddhist viharas
and the later Brahmanical examples
at Ellora, Elephanta, and Salsette.
The front wall of the Buddhist vihara,
with its small windows and doors, ad-
mitted too little light ; and so here,
while retaining the verandah in front,
and further protecting the cave from
rain and sun by projecting eaves, the
front of the Shala, or * hall,' was made
quite open, except the spaces between
tne waifs and the first piUars from escb
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ROUTE 23. BAD AMI
313
eni In the sculptures, at least of the
second and third caves, Vishnu occupies
the most prominent place. In style
they vary much in details, but can
sctrcely diiler much in age ; and as the
tMrd contains an inscription of Man-
gileshvara, dated Shaka 600 = 578
A.D., we cannot be far wrong in attri-
batmg them all to the 6th cent The
inportance of this date can scarcely
be overestimated, as it is the first of
ttie kind yet discovered in a Brahmani-
eal cave." In the fa9ade of the first
cave are four piUars and two pilasters.
The two pillars to the S. have been
broken by lightning, and are now
supported by wooden blocks. The
piUars are slightly carved in relief, to
about half-way from the top. On the
left of the cave is a dwarpal, with a
Nandi over him. Opposite tnis dwarpal
is a figure of Shiva, 6 ft. high, with
eighteen arms. There is a head of a
bull and Ganpati and musicians. Be-
yond the facade is a passage, or verandah.
On the left is Vishnu or Harihara, with
four hands, holding the usual symbols.
On the right is Lakshmi, with an
attendant. The whole rests on a
stylobate, along the front of which are
Ganas (dwarf attendants of Shiva) in
all sorts of attitudes. On a platform
to the right is Shiva with Parbati and
Nandi On the back wall is a figure
of Maheshasuri or Durga destroying
the buffalo -demon Maheshasur. She
has four arms, and holds up the buffalo by
the tail, while her spear-head transfixes
its neck. In one hand she holds the
discus, or Chakra, in another the spear,
in the third a conch, and in the fourth
the buffalo's taiL On the right wall is
Gannati, and on the left Skanda. Be-
yond the passage is a chamber, with
two pillars carved from the capitals to
the middle. Inside are two rows of
pillars. The ceiling of the passage, as
well as that of the chamber, is carved
in relief. From this temple flights of
steps lead up to the
Second Cave Temple. From the
platform thus reached is a fine view^
over the tank, and to the N. fort. The
fayade has four pillars carved from the
middle upwards, and four scalloped
ftwhes, it faces N, In front of it are
three pinnacles of perpendicular rock.
There are two dwarpals with a female
attendant. At the K end of the
verandah, to the left of the spectator,
is the Varaha, or Vishnu in the form
of a boar. Below are Shesha, the 1000-
headed snake, depicted with a human
head, and a female figm-e. A group of
figures is succeeded by Vishnu, dilated
to an immense size, putting one foot
on the earth and lifting the other over
the heavens. The same subject is
depicted at the Seven Pagodas, and at
Elephanta. On the ceiling in front of
this is Vishnu with four arms, riding
on Garuda. On the top of the wall,
in a frieze, are the figures of Vishnu
and Shesha. In the central square of
the ceiling is a lotus with sixteen fishes
round it. The corbels supporting the
verandah are strange, vampire -like
figures. The frieze of the cornice all
round is carved with groups of figures.
The entrance to the inner chamber
from the verandah is like that of the
first cave ; the roof of the chamber is
supported bv eight pillars ; and the
corbels are lions, human figures, vam-
pires, elephants, etc. The adytum has
only a square Chavaranga^ or altar.
On the architrave in the middle
compartment are several groups, such
as a woman on a couch nursing a child.
The figures that support the cross-
beams iare some of them very spmted.
A sloping ascent and more flights
of steps lead up to a platform, and a
few steps beyond is a doorway ; on the
right of it is an inscription in old Kan-
arese. At the top of one other flight
of steps is the platform in front of the
Third Cave. Above the facade of th is
cave is a scarp of 100 ft. of perpendicu-
lar rock. This cave, says Mr. Burgess,
is **by far the finest of the series, and,
in some respects, one of the most inter-
esting Brahmanical works in India."
The fa9ade is 72 ft. from N. to S., and
has six square pillars and two pilasters
12^ ft. high. Eleven steps lead up to
the cave, and thus a stylobate is formed
on which Ganas are reiiresent^d in
relief. The brackets of the pillars
represent male and female figures,
Arddhanarishvara, Shiva, and Parbati,
and Oft the columns themselves are
Digitized by VjOOQIC
314
ROUTE 23. HOTQI TO DHARWAB
India
oarved elaborate festoons, and below
medallions with groups of figures.
Traces of painting are visible on the
under-side of the eaves and the roof of
Gay« at BadAinl, from a plan by Dr. Burgess.
the verandah. At the W. end of the
verandah is a statue of Narsing, the
fourth incarnation of Vishnu, a very
spirited figure, 11 ft. high. On the S.
wall is Shiva, of the same height At
the E. end is Narayan, seated under
Sheshnag. The moulding of the
features is very good and expressive of
repose. On the left of this figure is the
Varaha incarnation ; to the right an
inscription in Eanarese. The chamber
is 35 ft. from E. to W., and 38 ft. from
N. to S., and 16i ft high. A very
deep eave projects in front of the ver-
andah, witn an alto-relievo carving of
Garuda. On the rock to the left of the
cave is an inscription. £. of this cave
is a wall 7 ft. high, which separates the
F<rwrthf or Jain Cave, from the other
three, which are BrahmanicaL The
platform beyond the wall overlooks
the lake or tank, and commands a fine
view. The descent is very steep and
covered with bushes. A broad over-
hanging eave has been cut out of the
rock in front of this cave, with Garuda
as its central ornament inside. The
faijade has four carved pillars and two
pilasters, with scalloped arches between.
On the left of the verandah is a Jain
divinitjr, with bands round his thighs,
and cobras coming out below his feet
On the ri^ht of the verandah is a
Buddha, with the Sheshnag over his
head. There are two pillais in bout)
and two richly ornamented pilaito&
There are also four rows of figiues, vitb
Buddha in the centre. Beyond is tiie
Adytum, a recess oontaimng anothv
image of Buddha. From the verandib
a fii^ht of steps leads up to the door of
the fort
Visitors in descending will not fail
to be amused with the monkeys, wUdi
oome out on the scarped face of ftie
rock, and sometimes endeavov to
push one another down the predpke.
At the head of the lake a large miss
of the rock has fallen, and forms wlut
may be called a
Fifth Caw, The entrance is Vy i
hole, through which one must crail
Against the rock at the back are a U19
and a smallJain figure. Alittletotbi
N.W. of this is a small shrine built
M;ainst the rock, on which are csmd
Vishnu and Shesha surrounded by
deities. To the N.W. and N. «n
numerous other shrines. N.E. of the
dharmsala is an old temple with massiTi
square pillars, and on the right of the
door is a Kanarese inscription. Then
are some carvings about it^ Thii
temple is quite deserted, and ia infested
both by bats and p»anthers.
The traveller will do well to visit
the vilk^ of Banshanlcar, where isi
temple to Parbati, the wife of Shin
It is about 2 m. from Badami, or half-
way between Badami and the Malpaf-
ba River, On the approach to it isi
small stone pavilion, and 200 ydi
beyond is a tank 364 ft sq. withi
covered colonnade. On the W. side
there is only a pavilion with foorrovt
of pillars. On the K side is a gbt
witn stone steps goinff down to tin
water. The tank is full of fish. Then
are dso manv laige monkeys, wbi
bound along the roof of the oolonnadi
with surprising agility. At the N.V.
corner of the colonnade is the Batli,
or chariot of the deity, 26 ft high ; the
larger wheels are 7 ft in dmmeter.!
Parbati's temple is on the W. ddfcl
There is also a lofty tower for lamp^
in several tiers. Beyond the temple
to the £. is a fine stream of clear wattr
25 ft. broad, flowing amongst tall tred
and shrubs.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 23. SIGHTS IN THE VICINITY OF BAD AMI
315
SWHTS IN THE ViOINITT OF BaDAMI.
) m. to the E. of Badamiis Mahakut,
wliere is a fine tank faced with stone ;
in it is a veiy old Lingam with five
hflids, three of which are Brahma,
VBhnu, and Mahadeo. It is called the
PiTUikmukJia, "five-faced." There is
also a large fallen column, a monolith,
with three long inscriptions, one of
^ich has never been deciphered.
AtPattadakal, 5 m. S.W. of Badami,
on the left bank of the Malparba river,
ire several temples, both Brahmanical
and Jain, dating from the 7th or 8th
century. Thev "are very pure ex-
amples of the Dravidian style of archi-
tecture ; they are all square pyramids
divided into distinct stories, and each
stoiy ornamented with cells alternately
oblong and square. Their style of
ornamentation is also very much coarser
than that of the Chalukya style, and
diflfers very much in character. The
domical termination of the spires is
also dittereiit, and much less graceful.
Temple at FattadakaL
and the overhanging cornices of double
(nirvatore are much more prominent
ind unportant" (Burgess). Besides
these, the village possesses a group of
temples, not remarkable for their size
)r architectural beauty, but interesting
l)ecau8e they exhibit the two principid
ityles of Indian architecture, in absolute
uxtapositioo (see Arch, of Vhanmr
amd Mysore^ pp. 68, 64). The Temple
of Papnath is of the N. style, and is
probably rather older than that of
VirupcLKsha^ which dates from the
early part of the 8th century. The
Temple of Papnath is 90 ft long, in-
cludmg the porch, and 40 ft. broad.
There are sixteen pillars in the hall and
four in the inner chamber, exclusive of
those in the porches.
At AiwalH, 5 m. to the N.E. of
Badami, there are a Jain Cave and a
Brahmanical CavCf both described by
Mr. Burgess. The latter is to the N. W.
of the viUage. The Durga Temple
has some very remarkable carving;
and here, too, are many dolmens.
174 m. Gadag junc-sta. (R.), D.B.
(From this point the traveller has a
choice of railway routes taking him all
over Southern India and to the western
coast near Goa (Rte. 22). Vyayana-
gar (p. 353) is about naif- way be-
tween Guntakal junc E. and Gadag
June W., and can be equally wefl
visited from either.)
Gadagy anciently Eratuka, is a town
of 17,000 inhabitants, with the usual
offices of a civil station. In its N.W.
comer is a Vishnamte Temple, The
entrance is under a high gateway, or
gopura, with four stories, and 50 fr.
high. The door is handsomely carved
with sixteen rows of figures in relief
on either side, and opens into a paved
enclosure, in which is the temple, a
quite plain building, with a well.
S.W. of this, 300 yds. off, is a temple
to Kari Dev, " Black God." The doors
are handsomely carved, as is the out-
side of the adytum. This temple
resembles the principal temple at Lak-
kundi (described below), and is built
of the same bluish stone. At 30 yds.
S. of this is another small Jain temple.
At the S."W. comer of the town is
the Karwar company's cotton factory.
Close to this is the Government
Telefi;raph Office and the Mumlutdar's
CJutcheny.
In the S. quarter of the town is the
principal Temple ; the only one worth
comine from a long distance to see. It
is dedicated to Triinbak^«hyraf as
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316
ROUTE 23. HOTGI TO DHARWAR
Iniia
TrikutesJtiwar, "the Lord of the three
peaks. " There are nine inscriptions at
this temple, one of which gives the
date 1062. The first door of the prin-
cipal temple is 36 ft. from the N. porch.
An ante-chamber 25 ft. deep leads into
the temple. The outside is one mass
of most elaborate carving. Two rows
of figures run along the entire front
and back ; those of the lower row are
2 ft. 9 in. high, including their canopy,
and are 156 in number. In the upper
row are 104 figures, 13 in. high, 52 in
the front, and the same in the back ;
the rest of the wall is also ornamented.
Round the outside of the E. ante-
chamber are niches for figures, but only
one figure remains whole. It is deli-
cately carved and 2 ft. 2 in. high, and
represents Narayan ; — ^it has a beauti-
fully-designed canopy. The front of
the temple to the spectator's ri^ht is
hidden by a modem addition, which is
quite out of keeping with it. The roof
is flat. Between the four pillars on the
E. is a colossal bull. Observe two
circular carved ornamental pillars on
the right of the doorway ; they touch
the wall, but support nothing. The
building extends towards the W., but
from the plain and unadorned style of
this part, both outside and inside, one
is led to think that this is no part
of the orig ^al building. None but
Hindus are avowed to enter this part of
the temple. The conical roof appears
above the flat roof of the passage, and
is beautifully carved and ornamented.
Immediately behind the main portion
of the first temple, in the right-hand
part of the enclosure, is a Temple to
Saraswati. The porch is the finest
part of it ; it contains eighteen pillars,
some of them exquisitely carved, and
six pilasters. The three first of the
two centre rows of pillars deserve par-
ticular notice for their elegance of design
and exquisite carving.^ Beyond this
1 Col. M. Taylor says : "It is impossible to
describe the exquisite finish of the pillar.- of
the interior of this temple, which are of bhi k
hornblemle, nor to estimate how they wee
complete*! in their present comlftlon, without
they were tnrneci in a lathe ; yet there can be
little doubt that they were set up orijfinall.v
as rough masses of rock, and afterwards carved
into their present forms. The carving on
SOJwe of tl^e pillars and of the lintels and
porch is a deep recess, with the image
of the goddess at the end. The walls of
the inner recess are of great thickness,
and suggest the idea that other recesses
at the sides may have been built up.
These walls are also finely carved, but
all the niches are empty. Around are
chambers for priests, and lodgings for
visitors and pilgrims. There are one
or two small shrines in the open coirt
To the W. is another entrance, with a
porch similar to that on the N. Tbere
is also in the enclosure a fine wll,
faced with solid stone, and with steps
leading do\vn to the water. There m
numerous inscriptions at this plaee,
one of which has the date Shaka 790=
868 A.D.
Lakkundi (anciently Lokkikandi) is
about 8 m. S.E. of Gadag, and about
half that distance from Harlapur star
tion. The pl«w)e is full of ancient
temples. Close to the W. entrance of
the town is one with a good mandir.
A few yards from this mandir is
another, in the door of which is a huge
bar of black basalt built into the walls
on either side. This bar is to prevent
animals from entering, and is veiy
much worn, showing the great an-
tiquity of the building.
At Kashi VishwanatKs Temple the
faQade has been supported by four
pillars, of which that to the N. has
gone. The doorways are elaborately
carved. The roof is quite ruined. The
carving outside is very elaborate, and
altogether this temple is by far the
handsomest in Lakkundi, and wdl
worth seeing ; but being built of coane
granite, the carving is not so clear and
sharply defined as, for instance, in the
Abu temples.
To the W., on the opposite side d
the road, is a Temple to Nandeshwar^
or "Shiva, lord of the bull Nandi*
There is a Kanarese inscription on tlfl
ledge of the W. division of the ro<4
between the four pillars. This temfili
architraves of the doora is quite beyrad
aciiption. No chased work in silver or g
could possiV)ly be finer, and the pattern* ]
this day are copied by goldsmiths, wh<i t«*
ca ts and moulds from them, bat fail
representing the sharpness aud finisli of f
original."
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ROUTE 23. HUBLI — DHARWAR
317
itaids on the K. side of a tank, which
it oeerlooks.
it 200 yds. to the S. is a Temple to
BmavOf which is lar^, but only 7 ft
high. It is a plain building, but
pitttily situated on the E. side of the
talk, which is a well-known place for
wid ducks and snipe. The inner
chamber is 8 ft. sq.
Inside the town, 200 yds. to the W.,
is a Temple to MaHikwrjuna, but the
people at Lakkundi say it is the name
of a mountain at TirupatL
100 yds. farther W. is a Temple to
Tshtoamy the roof of which has fallen
in. It is veiy old ; the exterior is
handsomely carved, and is said to be
the work of Jakanacharya, the great
sculptor.
A narrow path, thickly shaded for
about 100 yds. , leads to a Baolif or well,
—in &ct a small tank, the sides of
which are faced with stone. There are
flights of steps to the water on three
tides, and on either side of the first step
is an elephant, so well carved, that the
natives may be believed when they say
that it is the work of Jakanachaiya.
About 200 yds. from this, on the W.
side of the tower, is a Temple to Mani-
keshwaTj a name of Krishna, so called
because every day he gave to Radha a
raby, which is called a manik. A veiy
pretty small tank adjoins the temple.
It is faced with stone, and has several
buttresses projecting into the water,
said to be carved by Jakanachaiya.
On either side of the entrance into the
temple are four pillars of black basalt.
There is nothing in the inner chamber ;
the roof is pyramidal Part of the
outer wall is falling. This temple is
sniTounded by beautiful trees of great
From Gadag the line turns W. to
210 m. Hubli junc. sta. (R.) (line
8.E. to Harihar (R.) and Bangalore,
Rte. 27).
222 m. Dharwar sta. (R.), D.B.
This is a very important centre, being
the headquarters of the Southern
Klaratha Rly. Dharwar is a large
Ipen town in a plain, with a pop. of
»,ooa
On the K. is the Fort, which is strong,
though the defences are of mud and
irregular. It has a double wall, and
an outer and inner ditch, from 25 to 30
ft. wide and deep. It looks very deso-
late and wretched, and there is nothing
remarkable to be seen either there or in
the town. The Fort was taken from
the Marathas by Haidar 'Ali in 1778,
and stood a siege in 1789 from a British
force co-operating with the Maratha
army under Parshuram Bhao. It next
belonged to Tipu ; and one of his ablest
generals, Baaru-zaman, with 7000
regulars and 3000 irregulars, having
tMOwn himself into it, defended it with
great spirit. After a protracted siege
of 29 weeks, the brave Badru-zaman
surrendered on condition of being
.allowed to march out with all the
honours of war. The allies took pos-
session of the fort on 4th April, and
the Marathas attacked Badru-zaman as
he was marching away, wounded him,
made him prisoner, and dispersed the
forces.
The Cemetery at Dharwar is a little
to the S.W. of the fort Here are
buried Gapt Black and Lieuts. Sewell
and Dighton, of the Madras H. Artil-
leiy, "who lost their lives in gallantly
attempting to quell the insurrection at
Kittur, on the 23d of October 1824."
There is a tablet to the nephew of Sir
T. Munro, who was killed on the same
occasion.
The Church at Dharwar is about 1
m. to the S. of the D.B. It belongs
to the Basle Grerman Evangelical Mis-
sion, and was built in 1844-45. The
tower is 40 ft. hi^h. The service by
the missionaries is in Eanarese, and
once on Sunday in English. The can-
tonments for the native infantry, to the
N. W. of the fort, are quite 2 m. off.
About 1^ m. S. of Dharwar is a hill
called the Mailargar. On its summit
stands a small square stone temple,
built after the Jain fashion, and facing
the K The columns and beams are
of massive stone, and the roof of the
same material is handsomely carved.
On one of the columns is an inscription
in Persian, recording that the temple
was converted into a mosque in 1680
by the deputy of the King of Bijapur
Digitized by VjOOQIC
318
ROUTE 24. BOMBAY TO MADRAS
tndid
The ruins of the Fort of Eittur are
18 m. N. W. of Dharwar by road. The
place has been too much destroyed to
oe of much interest.
The line continues W. to Castle
Rock sta. (Rte. 22).
ROUTE 24
Bombay to Madras by the Bor
Ghat
RaU 794 m. Mail train about forty hours
in transit.
For the journey as far as 34 m.
Ealyan junc. sta. see Rte. 1 ; from
Kalyan one branch of the railway goes
N.E. up the Tal Ghat to Allahabad
and Calcutta, whilst the S.E. branch
ascends the Bor Ghat and passes
through Poona to Madras. Proceed-
ing by the latter we reach at
88 m. Ambamath sta., *' Immortal
Lord," a village of 300 inhab. It gives
its name to the district in which the
town of Ealyan is situated. 1 m. E.
is the temple of Ambamath in a pretty
valley. Dr. Wilson regarded the temple
as decidedly Shivite. In a niche on
the N. side of the adytum is a Trimurti,
or " three-headed Shiva." The figure,
firom its multiplex and fictitious heads
and skeleton legs, is as deformed as can
be imagined. The temple is an object
of considerable interest as a specimen
of genuine Hindu architecture : it faces
W., but the mandapam, or hall, in
front of the shrine has doors also to
the N. and S. The roofs of the porti-
coes between the lintels are covered
by carved slabs with beautiful designs,
in which birds and the heads of the lion
of the south are introduced. The door
^'•om the portico into the temple is
richly carved. The roof of the hall is
supported by four elaborately -carved
columns. So rich and varied is the
sculpture on these pillars that no
description could ^ve an adeanate
idea of it. The pediment of the door-
way leading into the vimanah is orna-
mented with elephants and lions, and
in the centre with figures of Shiva.
The interior of the shrine shows how
carefully the long stones of dark basalt
were jomted and bedded, mortar not
being in use among the Hindus until
the Mohammedan conquest Likeili
Hindu temples of the northern style,
the outside of the building is a series
of projecting comers. The base isi
series of projecting and receding courses,
one of the upper ones representing i
string of curious homed and bat-Hke
faces ; then comes a band with
elephants* heads and small human
figures ; next a band with half-goat,
half-bat-like faces ; then a deeper coarse
with innumerable human figures. A
curious belt of beautiful carving nms
up each face of the vimanah. An
inscription inside the lintel of the N.
door gives the date of the building of
the temple as =860 a.d.
54 m. Neral sta. (R. ) [Passengers for
Matheran leave the rail at this point
The station-master or the superin-
tendent at Matheran should be written
to beforehand to have a pony or a
tonga with bearers ready to take the
traveller up the hilL The ascent (8 m. )
is by a veiy good bridle-path, and 2i
hrs. must be allowed from the rly. sta.
to the hotels at the top of the hill.
The path passes througn Neral and
begins to ascend at the end of the 1st
m. ; during the 2d m. it ascends 560 ft.
amongst rocks. In the 3d m. the path
climbs the boulder-strewn hillside to
the height of 975 ft ; and at the 4th,
rising to 1526 ft, enters the Neral wood.
At the end of the 5th m. the height
is 2138 ft The 6th m. brings the
traveller to the plateau on the top of
Matheran Hill, which is 2283 ft above
the sea-level. The 7th m. reaches 2375
ft ; and the 8th m. descends to 2109
ft. From the 3d m. the ascent is very
steep indeed, but for the greater part
Digitized by VjOOQIC
d by Google
y Google L
ROtTTB 24. KARJAT
319
\ ll-S'
fUttr<
X
/a
\i\
n^ luxuriant trees clothe the
lie hill, and cloak the preci-
ll-station of Matheran stands
r of the Sahyhadri range, and
\ leable airy summer resort for
I ^ « of Bombay. There are a
I \ % Stibscriptum Ltbrary^ and
I for croquet, badminUm, and
) lis. The summit of the hill
( i station is situated forms a
/ ibleland running N. and S.,
■ '^^^ lioots in many directions,
^!^ \ all sides by precipices some-
i 7 10 ft. high, and terminating
'/^l^ in bluffs called "Points."
•I I p first spots to visit is Alex-
/'' ■ nt, which is about li m. from
MtJ ^ to the S.; then 1 m. to
V^^i >^^* to the S. of the main
^y JThe view is very beautiful,
those from Sydney and
Q Points at Mahabaleshwar.
t of the traveller as he looks
Chauk Point will be seen
to Chauk, by which Hugh
alet ascended when he dis-
atheran in 1850. There is
it of primeval forest half-way
lountain through which the
This old road is most
d steep. Chauk is a stiflingly
about 14 m. N. of Pan well,
road to Poena, and about
of Chauk Point. About
the left the traveller will see
Point, from which a long
Ige runs tapering^ down into
luntry, and this ridge bounds
in that direction. Another
lid be to Panorama Point,
the N.W. of the bungalows.
nee is a little over 4 m.
leads through a thick jungle
trees, and about i m. from
Point comes to a point
Sdth Porcupine Point, where
Ice descends abruptly 1000 ft
ds. from its termination the
quite round the brow of the
here there is a truly beautiful
Lc view of the country from
le point gets its name. To the
I Point and Porcupine Point.
distance is Prabal Point, wliere
|i fort of the same name, which
signifies "Miffhty." Between Matheran
and Prabal the mountain sinks down
abruptly to the plain. Below and to
the N, of Panorama Point is the Bhao
Mallin (or Bawa Malang) Range, 10
m. lonff, with stranee cylindrical or
bottle-shaped peaks. ThehutsofNeral
village lie directly below, and beyond
them is the curving line of the G.I. P.
Rly. Matheran is 28 m. due E. of
Bombay, which may be seen with its
shipping on a clear day. In the even-
ing a nde may be taken to the new
Bundf an embankment of very hard
blue stone, which is quarried on the
spot. It is 100 ft long and 3 ft broad
at top. There are other points which
maybe visited in the hills, but none
equal to those already mentioned.]
62 m. Eaijat junc. sta. From here
a short line runs S. 9 m. to Campoli,
but it is only used in the dry season.
At Kaijat the engine is changed for
one much more powerful to ascend the
Bor Ghat. The ghat begins 1 m. from
Karjat The gradient is 1 in 42 ; the
trains are furnished with powerful
brakes. The circuitous Hue passes
through, to Lonauli (17 m.), a succes-
sion of short tunnels with beautiful
views between of green valleys and
rocky wooded mountain sides, down
which, in the rains, innumerable water-
falls descend. After rising about 1000
ft, the Flag-staff and D.B. at Khandala
are seen far up on the left, and on the
right the level valley from Panwell to
CampolL The latter is a large and
very pretty village, with a fine tank
and temple to Mahadeo, built by the
celebrated Maratha minister, Nana
Famavis. Campoli is 23^ m. from
PanwelL^ The scenery is beautiful.
At the back of Nana's Temple the
ghat rises perpendicularly and seems
to overhang it ; over the lake spreads
a magnificent banyan tree, and near it
is a grove of mango trees.
The Government Bungalow at Khan
dala, the lowest point on tlie tableland
reached by the rly., is 1800 ft. and at
Lonauli the ghat is 2037 ft above the
sea.
1 The old route to Poena from Bombay was
by boat across the harbour to Panwell, and
thence to Campoli.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
320
BOUTB 24. BOMBAT TO MABBAS
Ifidia
The total length of tunnelling is
2535 yds. The estimated cost of this
incline was £697,222, or £41,188 a
mile.
The beautiful scenery of the moun-
tains, and the peculiar character Of the
incline, make the passage of the Bor
Ohai one of the most remarkable stages
in Indian travel. At the reversing-
station, one portion of the incline is,
as it were, terraced 1400 ft. directly
over the Konkan. In some parts the
Une is one half on rock benching, while
the other half is supported by lofty
walls of masonry, or in places where
the height is too great for a wall, by
vaulttd arches. The viaduct that
crosses the Mhau ki Mali Khind is 163
ft. high above the footing, and consi.sts
of eight semicircular arches of 50 ft.
span.
At 1350 ft. above the sea the train
halts for ten minutes at the revers-
ing-station ; the halt being for the
engine to pass to the other end of the
train.
78 m. Ehandala, D.B.3^ This
beautiful villHge has for long been a
favourite rt-treat for the wealthy in-
habitants of Bombay from the dis-
tressing, heat of the summer months.
It presents many attractions to the
tourist and the sport'^man. The village
itself is largo. On the left of the road
is a bungalow built by General Dicken-
son, of tlie Bombay Engineers, who did
much to make the place known, and
to improve the roads. The site is well
chosen ; it overlooks a tremendous
ravine, the sheer depth of which is in
great part concealed by luxuriant trees.
At the bottom winds a small silvery
stream. About J m. from this stands
the D.B., also on the edge of the
ravine; and on the right is a' large
tank, adjoining which is the bungalow
of Sir Jamshidji JijibhaL Leading
past this, to the E., is a road to a
magnificent hill called the Duke's
Nose, whence is a fine view over the
Eonkan, similar to those at Matheran,
already described. There is a Conva-
lescent Hospital at Khandala in charge
of the "All Saints*" sisters (from
Margaret Street).
Beyond the tank is the village of
Khandala ; and still farther oo the
KHrli Road is the beautiful wood of
LanaulL
The Water/all is distant from the
D.B. about i m. on the op|K)8ite side
of the ravine. To reach it, it is ue^-es-
sary to go about 1} m. round the head
of a watercourse. In the monsooD the
distant view of the fall from the top
of the ghat is very fine. There ire
then two cataracts, divided into npper
and lower by a short interval. The
upper cataract has a sheer fall of 800ft.
80 m. Lonauli sta. a^ (R.) Here is
the G.I. P. Railway Company's School
and Church, and from this place or
from Khandala the tall precipice called
the Duke's Nose, which is about 4 m.
off, may be visited. The ascent is by
the S. shoulder, and is vt-ry steep.
A traveller desiring to see the cares at
Karli should bear in mind that few
ti-ains stop at Karli station, but all
stop at Lonauli. The eaves are only
6 m. from Lonauli, which is a good
place to start from. A pony can be
ridden all the way ; a tonga can go
within } m. of the caves, to which
the path winds in easy gnidient
85 m. Farli sta. *♦ D.B. Here
is a small village to the right, hidden
among trees. The celebrated caret
are pn a hill about 2 m. to the
N.W. of the bungalow and 6 m. from
the rly. sta. ^ '
The following is from Mr. Fergusson'i
description of the Karli cave : * "The
great cave of Karli is, without exct-p- |
tion, the largest and finest chaitya
cave in India, and was excavated at a
time when the style was in its greatest I
purity, and is fortunately the best pre- 1
served. Its interior dimensions are
124. ft. 3 in. in total length, 81 ft. 5
in. length of nave. Its brewlth from
wall to wall is 46 ft. 6 in., while the
width of the central aisle is 25 ft 7 in.
The height is only 46 ft from the floor
to the apex." The same writer says
*'The building resembles an earl-
Christian church in its arrangemenf
1 Rock-cut TempUa tif India, p. 27.
Digitized by Google
B0T7TB 24. KARLI
321
while all the dimensions are similar to
those of the choir of Norwich Cathe-
dral." The nave is separated from the
side aisles by fifteen columns with
octagonal shafts on each side, of good
design and workmanship. On the
abacus which crowns the capital of
each of these are two kneeling ele-
phants, and on each elephant are two
seated figures, generally a male and
female, with their arms over each
other's ahoulders ; but sometimes two
female figures in the same attitude.
The sculpture of these is very good,
and the effect particularly rich and
pleasing. Behind the altar are seven
plain octagonal piers without sculpture,
making thus thirty-seven pillars alto-
gether, exclusive of the Lion-pillar in
front, which is sixteen-sided, and is
crowned with four lions with their
hinder parts joined. The chaitya is
plain and very similar to that in the
large cave at Ajanta, but here, fortun-
ately, a part of the wooden umbrella
which surmounted it remains. The
wooden ribs of the roof, too, remain
nearly entire, proving beyond doubt
that the roof is not a copy of a masonry
arch; and the framed screen, filling
up a portion of the great arch in front,
like the centering of the arch of a
bridge (which it much resembles), still
retains the place in which it was origin-
ally placed. At some distance in ad-
vance of the arched front of this cave
is placed a second screen, which exists
3nly here and at the great Cfive at Sal-
iette, though it might have existed in
""ront of the oldest chaitya caves at
Ajanta. It consists of two plain octa-
^'onal columns with pilasters. Over
;hese is a deep plain mass of wall, oc-
upying the place of an entablature,
md over this again a superstructure
»f four dwarf pillars. Except the
ower piers, the whole of this has been
overed with wooden ornaments ; and,
»y a careful examination and measure-
ment of the various mortices and foot-
ngs, it might still be possible to make
ut the greater part of the design. It
ppears, however, to have consisted
f a broad balcony in front of the
lain wall, supported hy bold wooden
rackets from the two piers, and either
[Indial
roofed or having a second balcony
above it No part of the wood, how-
ever, exists now, either here or at Sal-
Cave at Earli.
sette. It is more than probable, how-
ever, that this was the music gallery
or Nakar Ehana, which we stul find
existing in front of almost all Jain
templbs, down even to the present day.
Whether the space between this outer
and the inner screen was roofed over
or not is extremely difficult to decide.
To judge from the mortices at Salsette,
the space there would seem to have
had a roof; but here the evidence is
by no means so distinct, though there
is certainly nothing to contradict the
supposition. There are no traces of
painting in this cave, thpugh the inner
Digitized by VjOOQ Y
322
BOUTE 24. BOMBAY TO MADBAS
India
wall has been plastered; and may" have
been painted ; but the cave is inhabited,
and the cou tinned smoke of cooking-
fires has so blackened its walls that it
is impossible to decide the question.
Its inhabitants are Shivites, and the
cave is considered a temple dedicated
to Shiva, the dagoba performing the
part of a gigantic lingam, which it re-
sembles a good deal. The outer porch
is 62 ft. wide and 15 ft. deep. Here
originally the fronts of three elephants
in each end wall supported a frieze
ornamented with the rail, but at both
ends this second rail has been out away
to introduce figures. Above was a
thick quadrantal moulding, and then
a rail with small fa9ades of temples,
and pairs of figures.
** It would be of great importance if
the age of this cave could be positively
fixed ; but though that cannot quite be
done, it is probably antecedent to the
Christian era ; and at the same time
it cannot possibly have been excavated
more than 200 years before that era.
From the Silasthamba (pillar) on the
left of the entmnce Colonel Sykes
copied an inscription, which Mr. Prin-
sep deciphered in vol. vi. of the
JaumcU of the AsicUic Society, It
merely says: 'This lion -pillar is the
gift of Ajmitra Ukas, the son of Saha
Ravisabhoti ' ; the character Prinsep
thinks is of the Ist or 2d century B.c.
From its position and import, the
inscription appears to be integral, and
the column is certainly a part of the
original design. I am inclined to
think the date, 168 B.C., is at least
extremely probable.
"It would be a subject of curious
inquiry to know whether the wood-
work now existing in this cave is that
originally put up or not. Accustomed
as I had long been to the rapid
destruction of everything wooden in
India, I was half inclined to be angry
when the idea first suggested itself to
me ; but a calmer survey of the matter
has convinced me that it is. Certain
it is that it is the original design, for
we find it repeated m atone in all
the niches of the front, and there is
no appearance of change <or alteration
m any part of the root Every part of
it is the' same as is seen so often re-
peated in stone in other and more
modern caves, and it must, therefore,
have been put up by the Buddhists
before they were expelled ; and if we
allow that it has existed 800 or 1000
years, which it certainly has, there
is not much greater improbability is
its having existed near 2000 years, as 1
believe to be the case. As far as I
could ascertain the wood is teik.
Though exposed to the atmosphere,
it is protected from the rain, and hts
no strain upon it but its own weight,
as it does not support the roof, thoo^
it appears to do so ; and the rock
seems to have defied the industry of
the white ants."
Mr. Fergusson appends to his notice
of this *' decidedly the finest chaitya
cave in India," a general description of
the arrangement of such caves. He
observes that the disposition of parts is
exactly the same as those of the choir
of a Gothic round or polygonal apse
cathedraL Across the front there is
always a screen with a gallery over
it, occupying the place of the rood-loft,
on which we now place our organs.
In this there are three doors ; one, the
largest, opening to the nave, and one
to each of the side aislea Over the
screen the whole front of the cave is
open to the air, being one vast window,
stilted so as to be more than a semi-
circle in height, or, generally, of a
horse-shoe form. The whole light falls
on the dagoba, which is exactly
opposite, in the place of the altar,
while the colonnade around and behind
is less perfectly lit, the pillars being
very close together. To a person
standing near ttie door there appeared
nothing behind the dagoba but "il-
limitable gloom." The writer above-
mentioned thinks that a votary was
never admitted beyond the colonnade
under the front, the rest of the tem^e
being devoted to the priests and the
ceremonies, as in China, and in Catho-
lic churches, and he therefore never
could see whence the light came, and
stood in comparative snade himself,
so that the effect was greatly height-
ened.
The hill in which the caves an ii
Digitized by LjOOQ IC
BOUTS 24. CAVES OF BHAJA AND BBDSA.
rery steep, and about 600 ft. high from
the plain. A huge round cliff like a
tower shuts in the view in one direction.
The guides call the male and female
figures in the portico hairagis^ or de-
votees. The figure on the dagoba they
lali Dharma Raja, the Hindu Minos.
Besides the great cave at Earli, there
ire a number of yiharas, but small and
w insignificant compared with it ;
md this, Mr. Fergusson thinks, is a
proof of their antiquity. For at first
the viharas were mere cells, where,
IS Fa-hian says, *'the Arhats sat to
meditate," and as the religion was
lormpted, became magnificent halls
ind temples. Such are the viharas at
i^janta. The principal viharas at Earli
ire three tiers m h eight. They are plain
balls with cells, but without any inter-
nal colonnades, and the upper one alone
possesses a verandah. The lower fronts
bave been swept away by great masses
)f rock which have rolled from above.
I^ear this is a small temple to Bhavani,
^th the figure of a tortoise in front of
the image, which is that of a moon-
faced female with huge eyes.
There is a small village at the foot of
:he hill in which the caves are called
Ekvira, and from this the great cave is
Jometimes called the Cave of Ekvira.
Besides the caves, the traveller while
vt Karli may also visit the hill-forts of
Lohogarh and Viaapur, 8 m. S. of the
"ailway station (see Grant Duff, pp. 18,
14), which are at an elevation of 1200
t above the plain, with a sheer scarp
)f 200 ft. Losarh was taken by MaliK
ihmad from the Marathas in 1485 A.D.
«id by Shivaji in 1648, and again by
•he same chief in 1670. It was here
;hat the widow of Nana Famavis took
efuge from the time of Amrit Rao's
omingto Poona, on the 12th November
802, to 15th March 1804, when Gen-
ral Wellesley, according to the pro-
»osal of Dhondu Balal Eil'adar, of
jogarh, guaranteed to her her safety,
nd an annual pension of 12,000 rs.
-K)garh was twice taken by the English
'ith little diflBculty.
The Cayes of Bhaja and Bedsa.^—
* A full account of these places will be
)und in Cavt TmpUa of India, pp. 223, 228.
Bhaja is a village 2 m. S.'of Earli, and
Bedsa is 5i m. E. of Bhaja. ^ The
caves of Bhaja are situated 3 m. S.E.
from the village of Earli, and date
from 200 B.C. There are eighteen ex-
cavations, and No. 12 is one of the
most interesting in India. Bedsa dates
a little later than Bhaja. The princi-
pal temple contains a dagoba, but no
sculptures, and has its roof supported
bj twenty-seven plain pillars. Out-
side there is a group executed in bas-
relief, now much defaced. . On both
sides of the shrine the hill has been
excaj^ated into two stories, correspond-
ing with the height of the temple, and
containing the usual halls of instruc-
tion, with cells. But the most curious
of the sculptures is a collection of four-
teen dagobas, five of which are inside
and the others outside the cave. On
the first of the latter there is an in-
scription. The group of horses, bulls,
and elephants on the four pillars in
front of the arched cave at Bedsa
resembles what we find on the Indo-
Mithraic coins of the N., and is
evidence, were no other proofs pro-
curable, that such belongs to the
worship of the sun. The caves at
Bedsa are situated about 6 m. S.W.
from Wargaon (see below). The plan
of the temple resembles Earli, but is
neither of so great extent, nor so well
executed, and appears more modem.
It contains a dagoba ; and its roof,
which is ribbed and supported by
twenty-six octagonal pillars 10 ft. high,
seems to have been covered with pint-
ings, which are now, however, so indis-
tinct that nothing can be made out of
them. There are four pillars about 25
ft. high in front, surmounted by a
group of horses, bulls, and elephants,
with a male and female rider upon
them. The hall of instruction, wmch
is of an oval shape, has a vaulted roof,
and is situated close to the temple. It
contains eleven small cells, and over
the door of one of them there is an
indistinct and partly defaced inscrip-
tion.
96 m. Wargaon sta., a very large and
1 In the Joumud of the Bombay Aiiatic
Society for Hay 1844, Art vi., there ia also
some account of these caves.
Digitized
by Google
824
BOUTS 24. BOHBAT TO MADBA8
India
flonrishing Tillage, celebrated for the
defeat of a BritiSi force under Lieut.-
Col. Cockbum, on the 12th and 13th
of January 1779, and for a convention
concluded there by Mr. Carnac with
the Marathas.
109 m. Chinohwad sta. The villafe
has a picturesque appearance from the
river-side. Above the handsome flight
of stone steps which leads to the river
Mula are many fine trees, but the
temple is low and devoid of ornament.
116 m. Eirkee sta. is only ^ m.
from Poona, and may be considered
part of the same station. It is inter-
esting as being the scene of a splendid
victory over Baji Rao, the last Feshwa.
On the 1st of November 1817 the dis-
positions of that prince had become so
threatening, that Mr. Elphinstone,
then Resident at Poona, determined to
remove the troops from the cantonment
of that place to Eirkee, where, on the
5th, they took up a good position to the
east of an eminence, on which stands
the village of Kirkee, and where the
stores and ammunition were stationed.
In the rear of the troops was the river
Mula, and from the S. and W. advanced
the massesof the Peshwa's army, amount-
ing to 8000 foot, 18,000 horse, and 14
guns,^ besides areserve of 5000 horse and
2000 foot with the Peshwa, at the sacred
hill of Parbati (see below). The canton-
ments at Poona and the Residency at
the Sangam (or meeting of the rivers)
had-been plundered and burnt on the 1st,
as soon as the English troo^^s quitted
them. One regiment of Major Ford's
brigade was at Dapuri, N. of Eirkee,
and the total strength of the English,
even when it joined, was, according to
Grant Duff, but 2800 rank and file, of
which 800 were Europeans.
Gokla commanded the Peshwa's
army, and its advance is compared by
Grant Duff, who was an eye-witness,
to the rushing tide called the Bor in
the Gulf of Cambay. It swept all
before it, trampling down the hedges
and fields of standing corn which then
covered the plain. Colonel Burr, who
commanded the English, was now in
1 Grant Duff, toL iii. p. 427.
formed that Major Ford was advanc-
ing with his regiment, the Peshwa's
own, from Dapuri on the "W., to join
him ; and in order to facilitate tiie
junction, he moved the main force to
a position about a mile in adyance.
and to the S.W. of the village of
Eirkee. The Maratha leaders had been
tampering for some time with the legi-
ment that was moving from Dapoii,
and they frilly expected it would come
over, as it was paid by the Peshi a.
A strong body of horse, therefore,
under Moro Dikshat, the prime minis-
ter of the Peshwa. advanced about*
P.M. upon the Dapuri battalion, bnt
Major Ford, throwing back his right
wing, opened a heavy fire upon the
Marathas, both of musketry and fron
three sm^lguns commanded by Captaii
Thew. A good many Marathas fell,
and amon^ them Moro Dikshat h
the meantime, Gokla had organised
an attack on the left flank of the Eng-
lish main force, and this was led by i
regular battalion commanded by »
Portuguese named De Pento; and,
after Ms discomfiture, a select body of
6000 horse, with the Jari Patka, or
golden pennon, flying at their head,
charged the 7th N.I. as they were
pursuing De Peuto's men. Gokla's
horse was wounded in this charge, and
his advance was stopped ; but there
were other gallant leaders, such m
Nam , Pant Apte and Mahadeo Bao
Rastia ; and it was well for the Sepoys
that a swamp in their front checked
the charge of the Marathas, whose
horsemen rolled headlong over one
another in the deep slough. As it was,
some cut their way through the Sepoy
battalion ; but, instead of turninj
back, when they might have destroyed
the re^;iment, tney rode off to plunder
the village of Eirkee, whence they
were repulsed by a fire of grape. After
this charge, the Marathas drew off
with a total loss of about 500 men,
while that of the English was but 86.
On the 18th General Smith's army
arrived from Sirur, and the Peshwt,
after a slight resistance, put his army
to fiUl retreat. The most remarkabk
Eoint in the battle of Eirkee is, paj
aps, the exteaordinary steadiness of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
BOUTB 24. POONA
32&
Major Ford's regiment under great
temptation. In it were upwards of 70
Maiathas, yet not a man deserted on
the day of battle, though promised
▼ast sums to join their countrymen.
After the action, the Marathas, but
only the Marathas, joined the enemy,
and many of them being subsequently
Baptured, their culpability, sudi as it
was, was very properly ignored, and
they were set free.
Kirkee is the headquarters of the
Bombay Artillery, i m. N.K of the
barracks is the Small Arms Ammuni-
Hon Fadory, and to the N. are the
Powder Works (permission to enter
both must be obtained from the Com-
mandant of the Artillery).
Christ Church, Eirkee, in the Artil-
lery lines, was consecrated in 1841.
rhere are two Colours of the 23d Regt.
Bombay N.I. inside the W. door.
Amon^t the memorial tablets is one to
30 officers of the 14th King's Light
Dragoons, who died or were killed
between 1841 and 1859 ; and another
to 90 non-commissioned officers of the
lame regiment.
N.E. of the Artillery Mess is St
Vmxfnt De PauVs Roman Catholic
Ohapel
One of the most interesting spots at
Kirkee, passed on the road to Poona,
\s ffolkai's Bridge over the Mula river,
I stream which skirts Kirkee to the
3.E. and N. The river is 200 yds.
sroad at this spot. On the rt. of the
'oad is an old English cemetery, and,
)n the 1., about 300 yds. to the N.,
8 the New Burial Ground. After
Jrosaing the Mula, the road passes on
'he rt the tomb of Khande Rao
Solkar, and on the 1. are the Sappers'
ind Miners' Lines, and after them the
[)eccan College and the lines of the
J8th Pioneers, rt. Beyond these are
he Jamshidji Bund, the Fitzgerald
Bridge, and the Bund Gardens (for all
•f which see below under Poona).
The Cknrenmient HouBe is at Ganesh
tod, H m. S.W.\of Kirkee rly. sta.,
Jid 3i m. N. W. of the city of Poona.
t derives its name from a small khind
r pass between hills, about | m. S. E.
f the house, which resembles a modem
^nch chateau, and has a tall slim
tower, 80 ft high, from the top of which
there is a fine view — Kirkee, with its
powder works, and the Deccan College,
and Parbati HiU to the S.K The
house contains the usual reception
rooms, a ballroom, darbar-room, etc.,
and has a flower gallery or garden
corridor 90 ft long. The woodwork of
the staircase is very beautiful.
119 m. POONA 3^ June. sta. of the
G.I.P. and S. Maratha iUys. (see Rte. 23).
The rly. sta. is conveniently situated
between the city and the cantoimient,
and close to the most important public
offices. Poona is ttie residence of the
Governor of Bombay during the rainy
season. It is the headquarters of the
Bombay army, and the ancient capital
of the Marathas. The pop. of Poona
is 160,460. The first mention we
have of Poona is in the Maratha annals
of 1599 A.D., when the parganahs
of Poona and Supa were made over to
Malaji Bhonsle (grandfather of Shivaji)
by the Nizam Shahi Government. In
1760 it became the Maratha capital
under Balaji Baji Rao. In 1763 it was
plimdered and destroyed by Nizam 'Ali,
and here, on the 26th of October,
Jeswant Rao Holkar defeated the com-
bined armies of the Peshwa and Sindia,
and captured all the guns, baggage,
and stores of the latter. The city
stands in a somewhat treeless plain on
the right of the Muta river, a little
before it joins the Mula. At its ex-
treme S. limit is the hill of Parbati,
so called from a celebrated temple to
the goddess Durga, or Parbati on its
summit (see below). A few m. to the
£. and N.E. are the hills which lead
up to the still higher tableland in the
direction of Satara. The station is
healthy and the climate pleasant The
Agpiedu.ct'w&a built b^ one of the Rastias,
a family of great distinction amongst
the Marathas. There are also exten-
sive waterworks, constructed by Sir
Jamshidji Jijibhai, which cost upwards
of £20,000. Of this sum the Parsi
baronet contributed £17,600.
The Assembly Booms or Qjrmkhana
is a large building and contains a hand-
some ballroom, with a stage at one end
for theatricals ; and thoJ/nited Service
Digitized by VjOOQ
tU>t7TB d4. BOMBAY tO MADRAS
tntia
LUnwy, wliich possesses a good selec-
tion of books. In the grounds of the
building are lawn -tennis courts, a
covered Badminton court, and a good
cricket-ground.
Near the Assembly Rooms, on the
road to the Bund Gardens, is the Ck>imoil
Hall, containing a few pictures of some
interest if not of hi^h artistic merit,
amongst which are Sir B. Frere, Lad^
Frere, Khan Bahadur Padamji Pestanji,
Khan Bahadur Naushirwanji, Lord
Napier of Magdala, Khan Bahadur
Pestanji Sorabji, Framji Patel, the
Crown Prince of Travancore, Sir Man-
galdas Nathubhai, Dr. Bhau Daji, the
Kaja of Eochin, Sir Salar Jang, the
Thakors of Bhaunagar and Morvi, and
Ehande Rao Gaekwar.
jS^^. PauPs Church has four stained
glass windows at the E. end.
The Sassoon Hospital (nursed by the
Wantage sisters), in the Grothic st^*^) is
at the end of the Arsenal Road. There
is accommodation for 150 patients of
all classes and nationalities.
Opposite the hospital are the Collee-
tor's OtUeherry and the Ooverrmient
Treaswry. About 250 yds. S. of St.
Paul's Church is the Jews' Synagogtie,
a red-brick building with a tower 90 ft.
high, consecrated 29th September 1867.
David Sassoon's tomb adjoins the syna-
gogue, which was built bv him. The
mausoleum is 16 ft sq. and 28 ft high.
It is a drive of 1 J m. to the S.E. pass-
ing the Arsenal to St. Mary's Church,
consecrated by Bishop Heber in 1825.
Here are buried many officers of dis-
tinction, and the tablets on the walls
recall stirring incidents in the history
of India. The Font in the S.W. comer
of the church is surrounded by stained
glass windows.
E. of the Church are the QmeraZ
Parade Chround and Race-course, the
latter included in the former, and
about 1 m. long. The races are gener-
ally run in September. Close to it are
the Oymnasium, St. Andrew's Church,
and the Masonic Lodge, and to the N.
are the Ohoripuri European Barracks.
To the S. are the Wanawri Barracks.
Two SoottiBh Missions (Free and Est.
Church), and a Union Marathi Church
are conducted in the city and suburbs.
The Society of St, John the Ewmgeiut
has a native Missicm at Poena ; the mis*
sion-house is at Panch Howds, Yetal
Peit There are schools for boys of
various classes, an Industrial School, an
Orphanage, and a School for Catechists.
The Sisters of St. Mary the Virgin
(Wantage) have also their mission-hoose
at Pantm Howds, and in the compound
the Epiphany School for high diss
native girls, and St. Michael's School
for low class girls. The sisters hare
also under their charge St Mary's High
School for European and Eurasian gins
(self-supporting). A village school at
Parbeti 1 m. from Poona, and another
at Oerandaona a little farther off.
The Sangam is the name given to
the tongue of land at the confluence
of the Muta river flowing ficom the &
with the Mula river coming from thi
N.W. ; it is |)erhaps the most central
spot of the combined city and canton-
ments. Upon it are several temples, and
from it are pleasant views of the river.
The Wellesley Bridge, 482 ft Ion;
and 28^ ft. broad, crosses the Muti
river to the Sangam nromontory, dosi
to its confluence witn the Mma. It
takes the place of a wooden bridgi
erected to commemorate the victories
of the Duke of Wellington in India-
The present bridge, designed by Col
A. U. H. Finch, B.E., cost 110,982 rs..
and was opened in 1875.
On the 1. hand, after crossing the
Wellesley Bridge, are the Poona EngiJj^
eering College, and E. of it the Distnd
Court, — the latter a long, low building
on the site of the Residency of tiw
British Aeent, Mountstuart H^bm-
stone, at the time of the nmture with
the last Peshwa, Baji Kao. Mr.
Elphinstone retired from it to Kirk«
before the battle, and the Manthai
Slundered the building and pulled it
own. At the E. end of Wellesleff
Bridge is a path to the left, whifll
leads down* to a pretty garden wiA
several temples. The first has a to^
40 ft. high. The garden is filled witi
fruit trees. In the middle of the gardai
is a second temple, nearly as broad hd
not so high. A third temple at thi
end of the garden was built by Holkay
who destroyecUtwo old temfdes to bnill
Digitized by VjOOQ. 1
1. Small Arms and Amunition Factory.
15. Bank.
8. Orand Magazine.
3. Artillery Barracks and Stables.
16. St. Paul's Church.
17. Synagogue.
4. Roman Catholic Church.
18. Arsenal.
5. Bodyguard Lines.
6. Royal Connaught Boat Club.
7. Commissariat Lines.
19. Telegraph Office.
20. St. Mary's (Garrison) Church
21. Waterworks.
8. MUitary Hospital.
22. Racecourse.
9. Parbati Temples.
23. Roman Catholic Church.
10. Sappers' and Miners' Lines.
24. City Magistrate's Court.
11. Poona Boat Club.
25. Asylum.
26. Jail.
18. Counca Hall.
14. Sassoon Hospital.
27. Parbati Tank.
To face p. 820.
d by Google
Digitized by VjOOQIC
BOUTB 24. POOKA
327
it All sre dedicated to Mahadeo, and
though small, are extremely handsome.
At 300 yds. from the Engineering
College is Sir Albert SassoorCs House^
called Garden Reach. It was built be-
tween 1862 and 1864, and cost £80,000.
The gardens are beautiful, and extend
along the banks of the river. The
rooms in the principal house are floored
with marble. The fine dining-room is
connected with the house by a long,
open gallery. Beside it is an open
room, with sides of carved wood, where
the &mily dine during the Feast of
Tabernacles. The ceilingof the drawing-
room is beautifully decorated by Poona
artists. In it is a full-length portrait
of David Sassoon, Sir Albert's father,
who must have been strikingly hand-
some. A fountain in the garden and
the water-tower should be noticed.
Permission to view it would no doubt
be granted on application.
Irom this it is a pleasant drive of
1} m. to the Jamshidji Bund and the
Fitzgerald Bridge. The Bimd is of stone
thrown across the Mula river, and on
the S. side of it are the pretty Bund
Ckurdtns of six acres.
The view of the Fitzgerald Bridge
from the Bund is very pretty ; above it
is the broad stream, 350 yds. wide, on
which rowing matches take place,
chiefly in August. Farther along in
this direction, towards Kirkee (see
above), is the Deocan College, built
of gray trap-stone, in the Gothic style,
at a cost of 245,963 rs., of which half
^M contributed by Sir Jamshidji
Jyibhal It was designed by Cap-
tain H. C. Wilkins, R.E., and con-
sists of the central block two stories
hieh, with two wings, forming three
sioes of a quadrangle, surmounted by
a high-pitched iron roof coloured red.
At the N.W. comer of the main block
is a tower 106 ft. high. The wings
are occupied by students, and the main
building contains class-rooms and
laboratory, with a large College Hall 70
»• long above, containing the Library.
For a native town the streets of the
City are wide, and some of the older
houses are substantial buildings and
extremely picturesque. It is divided
into seven quarters, named after the
days of the week in which the market
was held. Amongst the industries of
the town may be mentioned the mak-
ing of gold and silver thread and wire
for embroidery and for a simple kind
of jewellery, the stringing of beads and
berries for ornaments, and brass-work
of all kinds. In the Shanwar, or
Saturday division, are the remains of
the Peshwa's Gastle, called Junawada,
or "old palace," a large enclosure about
180 yds. sq. It was built by the
grandfather of the last Peshwa, and was
a grand building, till burnt down in
1827. Only the massive walls remain.
In front is an open space where a
vegetable market is held. About 110
yds. to the N. is a stone bridge, over
which a road leads to the village of
Bamburda and the Sangam. The doors
are very large, and covered with iron
spikes. Above the gateway is a small
balcony supported on pillars. Here is
the terrace from which, in 1795, the
young Peshwa, Mhadu Rao, threw
himself, and died two days afterwards
of the injuries he received in the fall.
Here, too, in 1773, Narayan Rao, at
the age of eighteen, after ne had been
but nine months Peshwa, was savagely
murdered by two of his guard.
Not far from this castle is a street
in which, under the Peshwas, offenders
were executed by being trampled to
death by elephants. One of the most
memorable of these executions, on
account of the princely rank of the
sufferer, was that of Wittoji Holkar,
brother of that Jeswant Rao Holkar
who, the same year, won the battle of
Poona. The last of the Peshwas, Baji
Rao, beheld the agonies of the victim
from a window of his palace, where,
on the morning of the 1st of April
1800, he took his seat with his favourite
Balaji Kunjar in order to glut his
eyes with the revolting sight.
In the Bud h war or "Wednesday"
quarter of the city are some old Maratha
palaces, and the quondam residence of
Nana Famavis, a shabby mansion with
a small court-yard and fountain and
many small dark rooms and dingy pass-
ages. On the outskirts of the town
is a very large Jain temple with
Chinese-looking ornaments.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
328
BOUTE 24. BOHBAT TO MADBAS
Ifl/Ha
ParbatL — ^A Tisit to Parbati should
not be omitted. The hill, with its
temples, is situated at the extreme
S. W. of the town, the road to Sinhgarh
passes a little to the N. of it, and the
ffira Bagh, or "Diamond Garden,"
is passed on the road. In a cemetery
here, very well kept and shaded with
trees, is interred the celebrated African
traveller Sir William Comwallis Harris,
Major in the Bombay Engineers, who
died in 1848.^ The Hira Bagh, with
its lake and island, and the villa of
the Peshwas, mosque, and temples,
is a charming place. Lord Valentia
mentions it in his account of a visit to
the Peshwa in 1804. The temple at
Parbati was built by the Peshwa Balaji
Baji Rao, who reigned from 1740 to
1761, but in honour, it is said, of the
Rajah of Satara. On leaving the road
it is necessary before commencing the
ascent of the hill to walk across to the
E. side of the Ehadakwasla Canal, which
comes from the great reservoir 10 m.
to the S. of Poona. A long succession
of stops and ramps leads up to the top
of the hill and to the torn pies. At each
comer of the first court are small shrines
to Surya, "the Sun," Vishnu, Karti-
keya, the.Hindu Mars, and Durga ; and
in the centre is the principal tomple
dedicated to the goadess Durga or
Parbati, the wife of Shiva, so called
from Parvat, **a mountain." She is
said to be the daughter of the Hima-
laya. In the temple is a silver image of
Shiva, with images of Parbati and
Ganesh, said to be of gold, seated on
his knees. The temple was built in
1749, and cost £100,000. During the
Diwali the temple is lighted up in a
beautiful manner. On the N.W. side
of the enclosing wall is a picturesque
Moorish-looking window, whence it is
said Baji Rao watehed the defeat of his
troops at Kirkee. From the top of
this wall, reached by narrow steps, there
is an extensive view over Poena, Kirkee,
and surrounding country, including
Parbati Tank to the E., and Parbati
village S. of the tank over the Hira
Bagh to St. Mary's Church and the
Jews' Synagogue far to the N.E. To
1 He was the author of Wild Sports in ths
West, and the Higkla/nds qf Ethiopia.
the S.W. is a rained palace of the
Peshwas, which was struck by lightning
in 1817, the year of Baji Rao's over-
throw by the British. The Brahman
who shows the place will expect a
donation of 1 r. or so for the benefit
of the temple and the numerous blind
persons who frequent the hilL At the
foot of the hill is a square field, which
in the time of the Peshwas was en-
closed by high brick walls. Here at
the end of the rains, about the tune
of the Dasahra, _gifts in money were
presented to all Brahmans. In order
to prevent the holy men from receim
more than their share, they were passed
into this enclosure, at the gate of which
stood a vast cauldren filled with red
pigment. Each as he entered was
marked with this, and nothing was
given till all had gone in. They were
then let out one by one, and 3, 4, or 5
rs. were given to each. On one occa-
sion the Peshwa is said to have lavished
£60,000 in this manner. There are
several other temples and shrines at
the top of the hiU.
[15 m. S. W. from Poona is Sinhgirh,
a place very famous in Maratha annals,
and very interesting on account of its
scenery as well as historic recollections.
It is thus described by Grant Duff, vol. I
p. 241, where he speaks of its aston;
ishing capture by the renowned Tanaji
Malusre,m February 1670: "Sinhgarh
is situated on the £. side of the great
Sahyadri range, near the point at which
the Purandar Hills branch off into the
Deccan. With these hills it conmnmi-
cates only on the E. and W.by very high
narrow ridges, while on the S. and K.
it has the appearance of a rugged iso-
lated mountain, with an ascent of j
m., in many parte nearly perpendi-
cular. After arriving at this height
there is an immense craggy precipice
of black rock upwards of 40 ft
high, and surmounting the whole is a
strong stone wall wifli towers. The
fort is of an irregular shape; the
exterior presente on all sides the
stupendous barrier already mentioned,
so that, except by the gates, entrance
seems impossible. From the snmmit,
when the atmosphere is clear, is seen
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ftOtfTi! 24. FOONA
%i^
to the E. the narrow and beautiful
valley of the Nira ; to the N. a great
plain, in the forepart of which Poena,
where Shivaji passed his youth, is a
conspienous object. To the S. and W.
appe^ boundless masses of mountains
lost in the blue clouds, or mingled by
distance with the sky. In that quarter
liesRaigarh, from which place, directed
by Tanaji Malusre, the thousand Ma-
walis, prepared for the attempt on
Sinhgarh, set out by different paths,
known only to themselves, which led
them to unite near the fortress, accord-
ing to the words of the Maratha MS.,
'on the ninth night of the dark half
of the moon, in the month Magh.'
Tanaji divided his men ; one half re-
mained at a little distance, with orders
to adyance if necessary, and the other
half lodged themselves undiscovered at
the foot of the rock. Choosing a part
most difficult of access, as being the
least liable to discovery, one of their
number mounted the rock and made
fast a ladder of ropes, by which they
ascended one by one and lay down as
they gained the inside. Scarce 300
had entered the fort when something
occasioned an alarm among the garri-
son that attracted their attention to the
<iuarter by which the Mawalis were
ascending. A man advanced to ascer-
tain what was the matter. A deadly
arrow from a bowman silently answered
his inqrdries ; but a noise of voices and
aninning to arms induced Tanaji to
posh forward, in hopes of still surpris-
ing them. The bowmen plied their
arrows in the direction of the voices,
till a blaze of blue lights and a number
of torches kindled by the garrison
showed the Rajputs armed or arming,
and discovered their assailants. A
desperate conflict ensued. The Ma-
jlis, though thus prematurely dis-
covered, and opposed by very superior
numbers, were gaining ground when
Tanaji Malusre fell. They then lost
confidence, and were running to the
place where they had escaladed ; but
hy that time the reserve, led by Tanaji's
brother, Suryaji, had ^entered. On
teaming what had happened, Suryaji
rallied the fugitives, asked *Who
amongst them would leave their father's
(commander's) remains to be tossed into
a pit by Mahars I ' told them the ropes
were destroyed, and now was the time
to prove themselves Shivaji's Mawalis.
This address, the loss of Tanaji, the
arrival of their companions, and the
presence of a leader, made them turn
with a resolution which nothing could
withstand. * Har 1 Har I Maha Deo ! '
their usual cry on desperate onsets,
resounded as they closed, and they
soon found themselves in possession of
the fort. Their total loss was esti-
mated at one-third their number, or
upwards of 300 killed or disabled. In
the morning 500 gallant Rajputs, to-
gether with their commander, were
found dead or wounded ; a few had con-
cealed themselves and submitted ; but
several hundreds had chosen the des-
perate alternative of venturing over
the rock, and many were dashed to
pieces in the attempt. The precon-
certed signal of success was setting on
fire a thatched house in the fort, a
joyful intimation to Shivaji."
On the 1st of March 1818 Sinhgarh
was taken by the English without loss.
The garrison, 1100 men, of whom 400
were Arabs, capitulated, after being
shelled for three days, in which time
1400 shells and upwards of 2000 shot
were fired into the place. The ascent
to Sinhgarh is in part almost perpen-
dicular. Being 4162 ft. above tiie sea,
it is delightfully cool, and the views
are beautSuL There are several bunga-
lows here usually occupied by Euro-
peans in summer.
The Journey, — Leave Poona very
early, in order to reach Sinhgarh before
the heat becomes excessive. Parbati
will be reached in half an hour, and
horses are changed after the first hour.
Between the tenth and eleventh mile
the Lake of Khadakwasla (or Lake Fife)
is reached. The word signifies ** stone
junction," from Khadak^ " a rock," and
Wasla, ** a junction." It is 8 m. long,
formed by a grand stone embankment,
1 m. lon^ thrown across a stream, and
supplies roona with water and also two
irrigation canals. There is some
shooting about this spot. At the foot
of the Sinhgarh Mountain, 14 m., the
carriage is exchangeiOor a pony, or a
Digitized by VjOOQ
330
BOUTB 24. BOVBAT TO ICADBAS
India
chair, in 'which, the active people of
the locality will carry the traveUer to
the summit of the mountain by a
zigzag path 2^ m. long. After reaching
the scarp of the hill, you pass through
three gateways into the fort, the area
inside being about 40 acres. Kot far
from the gateway are stables hewn out
of the solid rock, and used by the
Maratha freebooters in Shivaji's time.
About J m. from the giteway to the E.
is a temple to Ram Raja, and near it
are wells and a tank hewn out of the
solid rock.]
[Pnrandhar is a strone hill-fort to
the S.E. , about 17 m. as the crow flies,
and 24 m. from Poona. The upper and
lower forts are situated more than 800
ft. below the summit, which is 4560 ft.
above sea-level, and are protected by a
perpendicular scarp. In March 1818
Purandhar was attacked and taken by
the English column under General
Pritzler (Blacker's Maratha WaVy p.
241). Purandhar is used as a con-
valescent dep6t for troops. There is a
D.B. there. The sportsman may find
panthers in the hills, and deer and
other game in the neighbourhood.]
167 m. Dhond June sta. (R.)
[From this place the Dhond Mun-
mar State Railway runs N. joining
the N.E. branch of the G.I.P. Rail-
way at the latter place (see Rte. 1).
It is by this short line that the mails
between N. and S. India pass. The
only place of importance on this line
is, 51 m., Ahmednagar sta. (R.) D.B.
(pop. over 40,000), the third city of the
Deccan, covering 3 sq. m., on the 1.
bank of the Siva, and founded in 1494
by Ahmad Nizam Shah Bahri, son of
a Brahman of Vijayanagar, the first
of a Mohammedan dynasty. His terri-
tory was the only part of the W. coast
to which the ravages of Portuguese
piracy did not extend. They main-
tained a friendly intercourse for many
years with Ahmednagar. The power
of that state extended over the greater
part of Berar and the province of Au-
rangabad and some districts in Khan-
desh, Kalyan, and from Bankot to
Bassein in the Konkan. The Fort feU
into Akbar's hands in 1605, after sob-
taining a celebrated siege under Qiind
Bibi, widow of 'Ali Adil Shah, of
Bijapur. (The "Noble Queen" (rf
Meadows Taylor's novel. ) It was taken
from the Nizam by the Marathas in
1760, after desperate fighting. In 1797
the fort was made over to Sindia by
the Peshwa, from whom it was taken
by General Welleslev, afterwards Dnke
of "Wellington, on the 12th of August
1803. A tamarind tree, under wnich
the Duke of Wellington is said to have
lunched, is pointed out on the S.W.
side of the Fort
The Fort is in the centre of the canton-
ment, 2i m. N. E. of the rly. sta. Close
to it are Christ Chwrch and a R.G.
Church. The European Barmcks are
1 m. S.E. of it, and the N.I. Lines and
D. B. are N. W. of it The gate of the
Fort towards the Poona road is called
the Malle Darwazah ; and just outside
it are the graves of two British officers
who fell here when the place was
stormed in 1803. The town though
flourishing and with good bazaars has
now no architectural interest Ahmed-
nagar is an im|)ortant station of the
S.P.G., and of the Ladies^ Associa-
tion, with large schools and branch
missions in several villages in the dis-
trict. 2 m. from the Fort is the Faria
Bagh, or "fairy garden," an old paUce
of the Nagar langs, which has nothing
attractive beyond historical associa-
tions.
The principal sight near Ahmednagar
is the Tomb of Sa£Bkbat Khan or Ghaad
Bibi (for it is doubtfnl to which ot
these two personages it belongs), 6 m.
to E. on a hill 3080 ft. The building
is octagonal, three stories high ; fine
view. Below is the crypt, in which are
two tombs, one of whicn has a smaller
tombstone on the top of the other.
There is no inscription. The first
story is used as an infirmary. To the
E. by N. is a very large tank. To the
N.N.W. is Dongar Gan, 12 m. off,
where there is a oungalow, which was
a hunting seat of the old kines, and is
now a place to which the En^ish from
Nagar go for picnics.]
184 m. Diksal sta. a small vil-
d by Google
BOUTB 24. KJBM — SBOLAPITR
3S1
lage. 2 m. beyond Diksal the Bhima
river is crossed.
223 m. Eem sta., is a large and
flonrishing village, the largest place
between Poona and Sholapur.
234 m. Bani Road sta. This is the
station from which travellers who
intend to visit Pandharpur turn off to
the S. (30 m. by road).
262 m. Mohol, sta 24 m. from
Pandharpur.
rPandharpur (pop. 17,000), on the
right bank of the Bhima river, where
is a very celebrated shrine to Witthoba,
or Withthal. The temple is said to
have been built in 80 A.D., and was
rented by certain Brahmans till 1081,
then by Bad wars, who still take charge
of it. The first chamber in the temple
is a room 40 ft. sq. with pillars, and
without windows and ventilation. The
second pillar on the left is covered with
silver plates, and pilgrims embrace it.
The idol chamber is 8 ft. sq., and the
idol is very grotesque, and wears a high
cap. Immense crowds of pilgrims visit
this temple at certain times, particu-
larly in July and October, and suffer
greatly from the crush and the want of
ventilation. The scene on the Bhima
river at the time of the pilgrimage is
most animated and interesting. 28 m.
E. is the beautiful unfinished temple
at Vyayanagar (Rte. 26), said to have
been built for the reception of this
idol, which however, refused to move.
The legend is that a Brahman named
Pandem, going on a pilgrimage to
Benaves, neglected his parents and
stopped in a Brahmans house at
Panaharpur, and saw Ganga, Yamuna,
and Saraswati acting as handmaids to
his host on account of his filial piety.
Pandelli then gave up his pilmmage
to Benares, stopped at Pandnarpur,
and treated his parents with great
respect and honour, whereupon Vishnu
became incarnate in him as Wit-
thoba.]
283 m. Sholapur sta. (D.B.), (pop.
62,000), capital of a coUectorate, and
formerly protected by a small but
strong fort, now in a ruined state.
The Fort is IJ m. N.E. of the town,
and is built on level ground, with a
very slight fall to the N. The ram-
parts are of mud, with a favsse-hraie.
The outer wall has battlemented cur-
tains and 4 inner and 28 side towers.
There is a moat on N.W. and S. sides.
The Tank of Sadeshwa is to the E.
The first gate is called the Ehata
Darwazah or Spike Gate, from the
iron spikes on the huge massive
wooden doors. They were to keep
off elephants, which used to be trained
to break in gates by pushing with their
foreheads. It has an uninteresting
Persian inscription, with a date corre-
sponding to 1810 A.D. In the revet-
ments are many stones taken from
Hindu temples, on which figures of
Vishnu, Mahadeo, and of elephants and
peacocks are seen.
There is in the city, which lies N.
and E. of the Fort, a good High School
for boys, and a school for girls, which
may be visited by those interested in
educational matters. The cantonment
lay S.E. of the railway station, and
there was once a strong force here,
but the troops have been withdrawn.
In April 1818 General Munro marched
against a body of Baji Rao's infantry,
4500 in number, with 13 guns, attacked
them under the walls of Sholapur,
and routed them with great slaughter.
The Fort, after a short siege, sur-
rendered (Grant Duff, vol. iii. p. 484).
There is a fine cottonmill at Sholapur,
near the Police Station and the Kail-
way. It is worth a visit.
At about 3 m. N. of the city of
Sholapur is the Ekrukh Tank, 6 m.
in length, formed by a modern embank-
ment of earth and rough stones 1^ m.
lon^ which has been carried across the
Adhin river. Three canals irrigate
the surrounding country. The High-
level Canal on tne left bank waters 863
acres. The Low - level Canal waters
10,601 acres. The High-level waters
567 acres. The greatest height of
the embankment is 72^ ft., and the
greatest depth of water 60 ft. But for
this lake, the whole district near,
and even the city of Sholapur itself,
would be deserted during a famine.
The lake was constructed as a Famine
Work in 1878.S0.
d by Google
33^
BOUTS ^i. BOMBAT TO MADRAS
India
The Waterworks were built in
1881, at a cost of 2J lakhs of rapees,
by the Municipality, and give a
daily supply of 6 gallons a head.
Moti Bagh Tank is prettily situated
close to the rly. crossing on the Bija-
pur road, and fringed on one side by
a magnificent growth of babul trees,
A very pleasant row or sail can be had
in the boats belonging to the Sholapur
club ; and the spot affords a pleasant
retreat on a sultiy evening.
292 m. Hotgi junc. sta. (R.), 9 m.
S.E. of Sholapur. From this point
the Southern Mahratta Eailway runs
S. to Bijapur and Gadag junc. (see
Rte. 28).
853 m. Eulbaxga sta. D.B. The
place was abandoned as the seat of the
Deccan Government in 1635 in favour
of Bedar. It is situated in an undulat-
ing plain, a somewhat dreary expanse
of black soil, relieved by outcrops of
limestone and , thriving young planta-
tions of trees.. Houses for the Nizam's
officers, who command the troops here,
and handsome buildings for a few
public offices are erected on the Maidan^
which stretches away from the railway
station to the city. The Old Fort in
the background, black with a^, and
the numerous domes with which the
plain is dotted, also help to relieve
the generally monotonous aspect. The
first object which attracts attention is
a large domed tomb, the sepulchre of
one of the former rulers of the place,
but now used as a Residence by the
Executive Engineer. A fine public
garden is then passed ; and nearer the
town, new buildings on all sides bear
testimony to the reviving prosperity
of the place. The town is entered by
a handsome gateway.
The outer walls and gateways and
most of the old buildings of the Fort
are in a very dilapidated condition.
The Citadel or Bala Hisar has suffered
least. On the top of it is a curious old
gun, 26 ft. long, and having twenty
pairs of iron rings attached to it, by
which it used probably to be slung or
lifted. Close by is an old Hindu
temple which has been converted into
a mosque.
In the old Fort is the Jumma Mnsjid,
one of the finest old Pathan mosques
in India, built in the reign of Feroz
Shah, and modelled after the great
mosque of Cordova in Spain. Accord-
ing to Fergusson, it measures 216 ft £.
and W., and 176 ft. N. and S., and
consequently covers an area of 38,016
sq. fL Its great peculiarity is that
alone of all the great mosqnes of India
the whole area is covered in. There is
therefore no court, and the solid roof
affords protection from the sun to all
worshippers, while the light is admitted
througn the side walk, which are
pierced with great arches on all sides
except the W. This arrangement is
so good both for convenience and
architectural effect that it is difficult
to understand why it was never after-
wards repeated. It stands in seemingly
good repair after four centuries of
neglect, and owes its ^eatness solely
to its own original merit of design.
The Jail is the model institution of
the sort for H.H. the Nizam's Do-
minions. It is said to be exceedingly
well managed and to be worth a visit
The Talukdar*8 Court, the Judicial
Offices, and the Treasury of Ealbar^
are located in the grand old Tomte m
the eastern quarter of the town. These
tombs are huge square buildings sur-
mounted by domes, and are the burial-
places of the kings who reigned here at
the end of the 14th century. They
are roughly yet strongly buUt, and,
with the exception of some handsome
stone tracery, which has unfortunately
been whitewashed, none of them con-
tain exterior ornaments of any kind.
The interiors are more elaborately
finished.
Some little distance from these
tombs is the shrine or Dargah of Banda
Nawaz, or Gisu Daraz, a celebrated
Mohammedan saint (of the Chisti
famUy), who came to Eulbar^ during
the reign of Feroz Shah in 1413.
The present structure is said to have
been erected in 1640 by one of his
descendants during the rei^ of Mah-
mud 'Adil Shah. Shah WaU, Feroz
Digitized by VjOC^vIC
BOUm 24. BHAHABAD — RAICHUB
333
Shah's brother, made many valuable
E resents to the saiad, and gave him
iTgejagirs, and built him a magnifi-
cent college close to the city. Some of
his descendants still reside at his tomb.
The shrine is much venerated by Mo-
hammedans in this part of India, and
none but true believers are admitted
inside its portals. Close by are some
buildings, consisting of a sarai, mosque,
and college (Madrassa), said to have
been erected by Aurangzib, who visited
Ealbarga on several occasions. Some
distance from the tomb of Banda Nawaz
is the Shrvne of Rukunu-d-din another
Mohammedan saint, who resided here
at the same time as Banda Nawaz ; be-
yond this again is the ShHne of Siraju-
d-din, who preceded the other saints at
the court oi the Bahmani kin^s. An-
other remarkable tomb is the Cf?ior
Ghimbaz (" thief s dome"), W. of the
city, which is said to have derived its
name from having been for many years
the haunt of a robber, who used to
deposit all his plunder here.
In the town is a Bazaar 370 ft x 60
ft., adorned by a row of 61 Hindu
arches, with a very ornamental block of
buildings at either end.
370 m. Shahabadsta. (R.) Known
for its limestone quarries. Large
quantities of the stone are exported.
376 m. Wadi junc. sta. (R.) From
here the Nizam's State Railway runs E.
to Hyderabad (see Rte. 25). Passengers
for the Nizam's railway change car-
riages. There is here a rest-camp for
troops en rovie between the Madras
Presidency and Bombay.
385 m. Nalwar sta. The shooting
in this neighbourhood is good both for
large and small game.
427 m. Krishna sta. Here the rail-
way crosses the Kistna river by a grand
bridge 3854 ft. long.
443 m. Baichur sta. (R.) At this
point the Great Indian Peninsula Rail-
way and the Madras Railway meet.
Madras is distant 350 m.
Raichur formed part of the dominions
of the Bahmani kings in 1357. It was
included in the government of Bijapur
(see Grant Duff, vol. i. p. 65), and was
governed in 1478 by Khwajah Jehan
Gawan. "When Bijapur became an in-
dependent kingdom, Raichur was its
S. capital. The Fort is about IJ m.
from the railway station. The N. gate,
flanked by towers, is best worth atten-
tion. There is a stone elephant not
quite the natural size carved out of a
boulder about 50 yds. outside the gate,
At right angles to this gate is another
called the Easbah Darwazah. Outside
this gate is the door of a tunnel out of
which the garrison came to close the
gate, and then retired by the under-
ground passage into the Fort. The
W. gate is called the Sikandariyah,
and near it is the old palace, with
immensely thick walls, now a jail.
The Citadel ought to be seen for the
sake of the fine view, extending as far
as the Tungabhadra river, 16 m. to the
S., and the Krishna, 12 m. to the N.
The ascent commences from near the
N. gate. The hill on which it is built
consists of immense boulders of rock,
and is over 290 ft. high. The path up
is broken and unsafe after dark. On
the left is a row of cells belonging to
the darga\ or shrine, and at the E.
end, overhanging the precipice, is a
stone pavilion. Near this on the E.
is a mosque 18 ft. high ; and on the S.
side is a place for a bell or gong 7 ft.
high, with stone supports and a stone
roof. The whole surface of the top
is 70 ft. square. The town is to the
E. of the Fort.
486 m. Adoni sta. (pop. 22,500).
This is one of the principal cotton-
marts in the Deccan. The town is
of some historical interest. Accord-
ing to tradition, it was founded 3000
years ago by Chandra Sing of Bedar.
After the battle of Telikot in 1554,
the Sultan of Bijapur appointed Malik
Rahman Khan, an Abyssinian, to
govern it, which he did for 39 years,
and died there. His tomb on the
Talibanda hill is still an object of
religious veneration. He was suc-
ceeded by his adopted son Sidi Mas'aud
Khan, who built the lower fort, and the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
334
ROUTE 24. BOKBAT TO MADRAS
India
fine Jamma Musjid. In 1690 Adoni
was taken, after a desperate resist-
ance, by one of Aurangzib's generals,
and afterwards fell to the Nizam.
Salabat Jang i^anted it in jagir to
Bazalat Jang, his younger brother, who
made it his capital, and endeavoared to
form an independent state. He died
in 1782, and was buried at Adoni, and
a fine mosque and tomb were erected
over his grave and that of his mother.
Government grant 1200 rs. yearly for
the support of these buildings ana the
charities connected with them, but the
edifice has gone sadly to decay. In
1786 the citadel was captured by Tipu
after one month's siege. He demol-
ished the fortifications, and removed
the guns and stores to Gooty. In 1792
it was restored to the Nizam, and ex-
changed by him with the British in
1799 A.D. for other places. The citadel
is built on five hills, of which the best
known are the Barakila and the Tali-
banda, both of which rise 800 ft. above
the plain. Half-way up the rock is a
fine tank containing good water, and
never dry.
518 m. Quntakal junc sta. (R.)
From this junc. the line runs N.W.
to Bombay, S.E. to Madras, S. to
Bangalore, N.E. to Bezwada, Vizaga-
patam, Vizianagram (on the way to
Cuttack), and W. to Bellary, Hospet
(for Vijayanagar), and Goa.
586 m. CN>oty sta. (R. ) Nearly 2 m. S.
of the railway station is an interesting
old hill-fort. It was taken by Hyder
'Ali in 1776 after a siege of nine months.
The water failed, and the garrison were
forced by thirst to surrender. The
fort is 950 ft. above the plain, and 2000
ft above the sea. Sir Thos. Munro
was buried at Gooty, but was subse-
quently removed to Madras. There is
a monument to him in the churchyard
here.
566 m. Tadpatri sta. (R.) The
town was founded during the time of
the Vijayanagar kings about 1485,
when the highly decorative temples
were built Ijie one on the river-bank
waa never finished, but is the mort
imposing. See Fergusson, pp. 875-378.
632 m. Caddapah sta. (R.)
710 m. Benigunta sta. (R.), junc-
tion of the Metre-gauge State Railway
(1) N.E. to Nellore (see below), and
(2) S. and S.R to Tirupati (see below),
Vellore (Rte. 29), and ViUupuram (Rte.
31).
(1) [75 m. Nellore sta. (R.) Chief
town of the district, stands on the rt
bank of the River Pennar 8 m. from its
mouth (30,000 inhab.) Here, in the
ruins of a Hindu Temple, was found a
pot of Homan gold coins and medals of
the 2d cent. There are here MlBWom
of the Roman Catholics, Scotch Free
Church, American Baptists, and Her-
mansburg Lutherans.]
(2) [8 m. Tirupati sta., 4c D.B. This
town of 14,000 inhab., crowded at all
times with pilgrims, is celebrated for
one of the most sacred Hill Pagodas in
S. India. It stands at the top of the
"holy hill'* called Tirumala, and is
about 8 m. from the rly. sta. Travellers
must be wary of thieves, who arenumer-
ous. Upon the hill they will be nestwed
by menaicants. Looking from tne town
only one path up the hill can be seen
along which at intervals are three
gopuras, or gateways, under which the
pil^ms pass. The last gopura is at
the top of the hill. On the other side
of the hill there are paths up, but all
very difficult. For some years the
temple was under the management of
the British Government, but in 1843
charge of it was given over to a Mahant
or Hindu Abbot, who with his co-
authorities controls the expenditure
and the worship. The antiquity of
the temple is indisputable, but its
origin is involved in obscuriW. The
idol is an erect stone figure 7 ft. high,
with four arms, representing Yishnu.
No European ascended the hill on
which is Upper Tirupati, that is the
temple and its suburbs, till 1870, when
the Superintendent of Police, in spite
of the remonstrances of the Mahant,
went up ia search of an escaped forger.
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BOUTB 24. OHANDRAGIRI — ARKONAM
385
It is 2500 ft. high, and quite bare and
without vegetation. The N. ascent
on the Cuddapah side is from the small
village of Balapilli, over hills and
through thick jungle, where tigers
and panthers are not unknown. The
hill has seven peaks. On the seventh
peak, Shri Yenkataramanachellam, is
the pagoda. A broad belt of mango,
tamarind, and sandal trees surrounds
the temple. There is a decent bunga-
low built on the top of the mountain
for lodging European visitors. In the
town is a dispensary, in part supported
by the Mahant. Idols are very well
carved in the town, of brass, or of red
wood — the Pterocarpus santalimis. E.
of the temple is a tank. There is also
a Hall of 1000 Pillars, which cannot
compare with that at Madura, or those
at Cnedambaram or Conjeveram. There
are sixteen waterfalls in various parts
of the hilL It is said that Abbe
Dubois was the first to visit the hill,
but he probably did not ascend it.
14 m. Chandragiri sta. In the palace
here the representatives of the Vijayan-
agar dynasty of the day (1639) mjade to
the E.I. Co. the original grant of the
land on which Fort St. George (Madras)
was built The Government carefully
E reserve the palace, and it is used as a
alting-place for officials. It is most
picturesquely situated in the Fort, and
at the back of it is a high rocky hill.
After the defeat of Talikot in 1564
this was the residence of the Rajas of
Vyayanagar.
78 m. Vellore sta. (Rte. 29).
272 m. Villnpnram sta. (Rte. 31).]
From Renigunta sta. the line con-
tinues S.E. to
751 m. Arkonam June. sta. (R. )
The N.W. and S. W. branches of
the Madras Railway join at this point,
and a branch of the the South Indian
Railway runs S. to Chingleput.
793 m. Madras.
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336
MADRAS OITT
MADRAS CITY*
CONTENTS.
PAGE
Agrieoltuie, Ck>llege of . . . .842
Arsenal 338
Black Town 837
Board of Bevenae Offices . . . 889
Botanical Gardens 841
Cathedrals— Roman Catholic ... 341
St. George's 340
St. Thom6 (Roman Catholic) . . 840
Central Railway Station . . . . 842
Chepauk Park and Buildings . .839
Christian College 837
Churches— Armenian . . .841
„ (Great Mount) . . 348
Church Mission Chapel . .341
Emanuel 841
English Church (Great Mount) . . 343
St. Andrew's 840
St. Mary's 840
St Matthias* (Vepery) .... 841
St. Thomd 840
Wcsleyan Chapel 341
Civil Engineering College . . .889
Climate 887
Connemara Free Library . . . .341
Fort St. (Jeor^e 837
General Hospital 388
Goveruor's Country House ... 843
Government House . . . . .880
Great Mount 848
Gun-carriage Factory . . . .841
Harbour Works 887
High Court Buildings . . . .887
Institutions, Educational, etc.—
Agriculture, College of . . . 842
Civil Engineering College . . .839
i
Medical College S»
Old College Sil
Pacheappah's College and Hall . . Stf
School of Arts M
Teachers' College M
Victoria Technical Institute . . at
Island
Jaa
Landing-place
Lighthouse 80
Little Mount 3tt
Marina (Promenade) ... . 8tf
Marmalong Bridge 8tt
Medical College 8»
Memorial Hal SSI
Mount Road Uk
Museum (Arsenal) SSS
„ (Pantheon Road) . . . Sfl
Observatory 30.
Old College Sfl
Pacheappah's College and Hall . . 8S8
People's Park 341
Promenade or Marina ... . 3tf
Race-course S43
Saidapet Model Farm .... 342
School of Arts 339
Senate House 3SI>
Sport ....... 84S
Statues 3«
Suburbs . . . . . . 84«
Triplicane 840
Veterinary Hospital (Govt.) . . . 84S
Victoria Technical Institute . . .841
Victoria Town Hall 841
On the first appearance of the builds
ings of Madras City from the sea, the
stranger must feel surprised how so
great a capital should have grown up
on such an exposed coast, with appar-
ently so little convenience for trade.
But the whole line of coast, from Ceylon
to Orissa, has not one convenient har-
bour ; although at Yizagapatam there
is a natural opening which could, at
considerable expense, be converted into
a harbour of some magnitude. Madras
heis no great river near it to bring down
products from inland regions, the bulk
of the traffic reaching the coast by
means of 2 lines of rly. ; they are
supplemented by a long series of canals
along the coast, the line of which
passes through the town S. to the
South Aroot District, and N. to the
Godavari, a length of 250 m.
The city and its suburbs extend 9
along the coast, covering an area of ^
sq. m. Pop. in 1881, 406,000; ii
1891, 460.000.
Landing-place. — Passengers anl
cargo are landed or embarked in jollj
boats or masula boats, which are flaf
bottomed barges constructed of mangjl
wood, and sewn together with cocoa-nnl
fibre. The landing charges are fd
masula boats 2*8 rs., jolly boats 1 r.j
passengers land without difficulty al
the Fier, which is 1000 ft. long, anJ
40 ft. wide, with a T head. .
The Madras coast is oocasionallrl
visited by cyclonic storms, sometimes
terrific violence. Cn Oct. 3, 1746, '
days after the surrender of Madras to
French, there was a dreadful cydon*
in which the Due tPOrleans, Ihm'
and Lys foundered with upwards
d by Google
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*!pa^iL'9'9jsr^
\/
i
i traffic re
of 2 line
mented by ,
the coast^
through
Aroot Dial
rii a lengtl
'-**M.
lesof
;, 23
)the
"«rea mth np»Mds of
I 3n. The Mermaid and Advice^
' ilso went down ; and the flag-
hille was dismasted, and saved
ifficulty, after the lower guns
en thrown overboard. Out of
3r vessels then in the Madras
lot one escaped. There have
jther frightful hurricanes in
.807, and 1811. On the latter
a the Dover frigate and Chichester
lip foundered, and 90 coasting
went down at their anchors.
; this hurricane the surf broke at
distance from the shore. On
, 1872 there was another great
in which the Hotspur and 8
aan vessels and 20 native vessels
gether 4133 tons were lost. As
ore is sandy, stretching in nearly
ight line from N. by E. to S.
for many miles, without creek
y or other natural facility for
3g a harbour, artificial works have
0 be designed. On the occasion
! Prince of "Wales's visit in 1875,
aaorial stone was laid commem-
ig the commencement of the
'ur works, designed by W. Parkes,
D.E., who had constructed the
3hi harbour. The works were
y complete, at a cost of 5,800,000
when in Nov. 1881 a violent
ne occurred which seriously
ed them, and breached about i m.
aakwater out of a total of l| m.
mended design was then approved,
the works have since been com-
d. The harbour consists of two
:waters to the N. and S. of the
jm House, enclosing the pier,
h runs out from the Custom
le. It was proved during the
; cyclone of 1881 that no harbour
can ever be regarded as a har-
of refuge, and consequently ships
low ordered to put out to sea at
rst indication of a cyclone. But
leme of docks to be constructed
he south foreshore, with the har-
forming the entrance, is under
ideration. The sand along the
t is unusually flat seawards, reach-
a depth of 10 fathoms only at a
dis ance of 1 m. from the shore, and to
this may be partly attributed the pecu-
liarity of the Madras surf.
liiaHTHOUSt!
as?
The wind from the S.W. blows from
April to Oct. and that from the
N.E. from Oct. to April. The S.W.
monsoon breezes aie for the most jiart
light. The N.E. monsoon briugs ilie
rainy season on the east coast, which
is from October to December. The S. W.
monsoon rains fall on the east coast
from the end of May to the middle of
October. The average rainfall at
Madras is 50 in. , nearly half of which
falls in November.
November, December, and January
are comparatively cool, but there is no
really cold weather in the plains in
Madras. The rise of tide does not ex-
ceed 3 to 4 ft., even at equinoctial
springs.
The Post Office, new Bank of Madras
building, old High Court, now occupied
by the Port and Customs Offices, and
various houses of business extend along
the shore facing the harbour. W. of
these is a thickly inhabited quarter
chiefly inhabited by natives, and known
as Black Town, In it is Popham's
Broadway, a long thoroughfare contain-
ing several large shops, the old Bank
of Madras, and churches.
The old Lighthouse, which still stands
on the Esplanade, has been superseded
by a tower on the High Court Build-
ings, which has been furnished with
the latest improved light apparatus.
The New Law Court Buildings form
a handsome pile, designed and erected
in the Hindu-Saracenic style, by J.
W. Brassington, H. Irwin, C. I.E., and
J. H.' Stephens. They cover an area
of 100,000 sq. ft., were commenced in
1888, and the law courts were formally
opened in 1892. The arrangement of
the interior is good, and the internal
decoration of wood carving and painted
glass is well worthy of inspection. All
the materials employed in the building
were obtained in the country. West
of the Law Courts is the new Law
College, a fine structure in similar style,
designeid by H. Irwin, CLE.
The Madras Christian College Build-
ings, erected at a cost of £50,000, form
one of the finest Colleges in India.
Fort St. George contains the Euro-
pean barracks, the Arsenal, St. Mary's
Church, and some of the Government
Digitized by GoOgleZ
938
MADBAS OITT
India
Offices. It was designed by Mr.
Bobins, mathematical professor at Wool-
Tfich, who was made commander-in-
chief at Madras. The £. face of
the Fort is only separated from the sea
by a broad road, and a sandy beach ac-
cumulated during the present century.
The £. £Eice is straight, but the W. face
landward is in the form of a crescent,
well protected by cross-fire from
different bastions, and surrounded by a
deep fosse, crossed by a drawbridge.
Here, on Sept. 10, 1746, M. de la
Bourdonnais received in the name of
the French king the surrendered keys,
which were restored to the English
by the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle. On
Dec. 14, 1758 the French arnved before
it under the command of M. Lally, but
retreated on Feb. 16, 1759, leaving
behind them 52 cannon and many of
their wounded. The French made their
approach on the N. side, and their
prindnal battery, called Lally's, must
have been near where the Christian
College House now stands, as it was
close to the beach, and about 580 yds.
N. of the Fort Another batten^ was
at the native cemetery in Black Town,
and a third about 400 yds. to the S.W.
In April 1769, while the English forces
were far away, Hyder 'Ali made his
appearance with his cavalry, and dic-
tated to the Governor the terms on
which he would spare the defenceless
territory. Again, on August 10,
1780, and once more in Jan. 1792,
the garrison were alarmed by the ap-
pearance of the Mysore cavalry. Here
m Writer's Buildings, Olive twice
snapped a pistol at his own head.
From this Fort he marched to his
first victories, and from it went the
army which, on May 4, 1799, killed
Tipu and captured Seringapatam. The
Accountant - General's Office in the
Fort was formerly the Government
House. On the ground -floor of the
Secretariat Buildings are the volumin-
ous Records.
The Grand Arsenal forms a long
parallelogram on the first floor. In it
IS the Musewm, containing amongst
other objects : four comets, or flags,
belonging to the 1st and 2d Regiments
of Madras Cavalry — the oldest flags
taken from the Dutch and French are
sewn up in covers, to protect them
from the squirrels, which have de-
stroyed many, using them to make
their nests ; — ^two iron helmets taken at
Manilha {sic) in 1762, one weighing 10
lbs., the other 14 lbs. There is also
a very curious brass mortar from Kur-
nool, shaped like a tiger sitting with
legs planted almost straight out. Also
a handsome gun taken from Jeswant
Rao Holkar, with his name and the
date, 1218 A.H. =1803 A.D. ; the cage
in which Captain P. Anstruther, KA,
was kept prisoner in China for sev^
months; a very fine bronze bell
taken by Major M'Intyre at Ohing
Eang Foo ; the colours taken at the
capture of Sadras in 1780, and £roin
the French at Pulicat in 1781 ; the
Dutch colours taken at Amboyna in
1810 ; tiger-headed guns taken at
Seringapatam in 1792 ; a wall-piece,
which belonged to the Nawab of the
Camatic, the barrel of which is 12 ft
long ; the six keys of Pondicheiry,
taken in 1778 ; a bifurcate projectile,
which, after issuing from the cannon,
opens out like a cu)uble-bladed sword
to the length of 5 ft 10 in. ; a wall-
piece brought from Bellary, the banel
of which is 15 ft. long, though the
bore is only IJ in. ; leather petanls
with straps to fasten them to a gate.
Across the Esplanade W. of the Fort
are Pacheappah's Coll^ and HaU.
The latter is of Greek Ionic architecture,
and of noble proportions. Both build-
ings owe their erection to Pacheappah
Mudelliar, a wealthy and benevolent
Hindu gentleman who, dying a hun-
dred years ago when education wa«;
almost unknown in Madras, endowed
various religious and scholastic insti-
tutions and private charities with no
less than a lakh of pagodas.
The Jail or Penitentiary is i m. "W.
of the Fort
The General Hospital is opposite the
Central Rly. sta. The records go back
to 1829. Dr. Mortimer published i
account of it in 1838. On the E. si<
there is a large detached building^
commodating the Medical College. '
hospital contains 500 beds, and is U
both Europeans and natives. The
Digitized by VjOOQIC _
THB MBlf OBIAL WAT.T.
389
IGlitary Hospital is S. of the Fort,
iihe Maternity and Ophthalmic
Hospitals are in Egmore, and there
are other hospitals in Black Town,
and also a model Leper Asylum.
The Memorial Hall, near the General
Hospital, is a massive building of no
great architectural beauty, erected by
public subscription in commemoration
of "the goodness and forbearance of
Almighty God in sparing this Presi-
dency from the Sepoy Mutiny which
devastated the sister Presidency of
Bengal in the year 1857." It is avail-
able for public meetings of a religious,
educational, charitable, and scientific
character; its doors being closed a^inst
"balls, concerts, theatrical exhibitions,
and such-like entertainments as have
the character of mere worldly amuse-
ment. " The Bible Society occupies the
basement, and the Tract ana Book
Society an adjacent building somewhat
in the same style of architecture.
The People's Park, close to the Cen-
tral Railway Station. Madras owes
this place of public resort to Sir Charles
Trevelyan, a former governor. It
embraces 116 acres of land, with roads
extending to 5^ m. It has eleven
artificial lakes, a public bath, a fine
zoological collection, tennis courts, and
a bandstand ; but is not kept up veiy
well owing to want of funds. S. of it
stands the Victoria Town Hall^ facing
the road, raised by public subscrip-
tion 1883-88 (Mr. Chisholm, archi-
tect). The building is in keeping with
the neighbouring Central Station.
The School of Arts, near St. Andrew's
Kirk, was established as a private insti-
tution by Dr. Alexander Hunter in
1850, and for five years was mainly
mpported by that worthy Doctor's
[)nvate purse. Government took it
)ver in 1866.
Government House is about \ a mile
\. of tiie Fort. The entrance hall is
pacious, and contains a full-length
)ortrait of 'Azim Jah, the Nawab of
^Tcot, and two pictures of his sons. In
he breakfast-room is a picture of the
QstaUation of Nawab Ghulam Muham-
oad Ghaus Ehan under the governor-
hip of Lord Elphinstone, with the
lite 1842. In tne dining-room is a
portrait of Olive, and one of Nawab
Shig'au-daulah, of Oudh, and also
one of the Nawab 'Umdatu-l-Umara.
In the drawing-room is a fiill-length
portrait of Lady Munro, by Sir Thomas
Lawrence,— one of his finest pictures.
There is also a portrait of the Mar-
chioness of TweeddiJe. The hariquet'
ing-hall, in a detached building, is a
noble room 80 ft. long and 60 ft. broad,
and very lofty. The principal entrance
is on the N., and is approached by a
broad and lofty flight of stone steps.
The hall was constructed during Lord
Clive's government to commemorate
the fall of Seringapatam. Bound the
walls are large pictures of Queen
Victoria seated ; George III., taken at
the beginning of his reign; Queen
Charlotte ; a full-length of Sir Thomas
Munro, probably by Sir T. Lawrence ;
Robert, Lord Hobart, 1790-98; Lord
Harris ; General Meadows ; Lord Mor-
nington, afterwards Marquis Wellesley,
seated on the terrace of the old Govern-
ment House in the Fort, with two flags
on his left, the British surmounting that
of Tipu, — the steeple of old St. Mary's
Church is also shown ; also General
Wellesley (Duke of Wellington) ; Sir
C. Trevelyan in an oratorical attitude ;
General Sir S. Auchmuty ; General Sir
Eyre Coote ; Lord Comwallis, standing
in the act of giving a command ; Sir
Thomas Strange in l£e robes of a judge ;
Lord Napier and Ettrick, K.T., in the
robes of a peer ; the Marquis of Tweed-
dale, Sir M. S. Grant Duff"; Lord
Connemara, and others.
On the road from the Fort to Mount
Road stands a bronze equestrian statiie
of Sir T, Mvm>rOy by Chan trey, erected
by public subscription in 1839 at a cost
of £9000.
The Island is a large recreation and
parade ground between the Fort and
Government House. The Gymkhana
Club pavilion is a handsome structure
in the S.W. comer, on the banks of
the Cooum.
The Chepauk Park and Buildings.—
This park was once the property of the
Nawabs of the Camatic. On the death
of the last occupant of the mumvd^ the
property escheated to Government, to-
gether with the old palace, a structure
Digitized by VjOOQIC
340
HABBAS CTTT
India
of mixed Saracenic, Ionic, and Doric
architecture. Grovemment has since
greatly improved the palace, and the
whole building is now in the Moorish
style, presenting a most imposing ap-
pearance. The entrance, by the Wal-
lajah Road, i3 through an ornamental
gateway with representations in porce-
Eiin 01 the various incarnations of
Vishnu, executed by the Madras School
of Arts. The building is now occupied
by the Board of Bevenue Offices, At-
tached to it on the S. is the Civil
Engineering College, and to the S. of
this is the Presidency College, a fine
large building in the Italian style.
W. of this agam is the Gosha, or Caste,
Hospital hidden amongst trees, and
beyond it is the fine ground and
pavilion of the Madras Cricket Club.
N. of the old palace is the Senate Houses
designed, like many other buildings in
Madras, by Mr. Chisholm. It was begun
in 1874 and completed in 1879 at a cost
of 289,000 rs. Close to the S. entrance,
facing Chepauk palace, will be seen the
JubiUe statue of the Queen Empress, a
replica of the Boehm statue at Windsor,
presented to the city by Rajah Gaja-
patee Row of Vizagapatam. 1 m. S. W.
of the Senate House is Triplicane, a
crowded district containing the palace
where the Prince of Arcot resides, and
a famous Mohammedan mosque and
Hindu temple.
The Promenade by the Sea-shore. —
The Marina, the fashionable drive and
promenade at Madras, is by the sea-
shore, from the southern extremity of
the Fort southward over the Napier
Bridge, and past the Senate House, the
Revenue Board Office, the Civil Engin-
eering College, the D. P. W. offices, the
Presidency College, as far as the Capper
House Hotel. Thence Cathedral Koad
runs nearly due W. about 2 m. to St.
George's Cathedral, the Mount Road,
and the suburb of Adyar. A great part
of these roads is overhung by mighty
banian trees, forming a tunnel through
which one drives in agreeable coolness
even when the sun is hot.
The Mount Bead extends from
Government House to the Mount, 7
m. The best European shops lie
between Government House and the
Club. The principal Hotels are also
in this neighbourhood.
General Neil's Statne opposite the
entrance to the Club. At the base u
a fine alto-relievo of a battle, with
Highlanders and guns, and at the back
is, ** Erected by public subscriptioD,
1860." On the other two sides are ths
names of the non-commissioned officers
and men who fell in the actions m
which Neil was engaged. There is
also an inscription recording his deati
at Lucknow.
Chtjbches.
The Cathedral (St. George's) stands
1. in an enclosure, a little beyond Neil's
statue along the Mount Eoad. The
exterior is not handsome, but thfl
dazzling white chunam and the very
numerous and remarkably handsome
tablets and tombs, and the lofty
and massive pillars in the inteiiw,
produce a very pleasing impressioa.
At the E. end of ttie N. aisle is a fine
monument to the Right Eev. Daniel
Corrie, LL.D., first Bishop of Madras.
The monument to Bishop Reginald
Heber, who died in 1826, is on the N.
wall of the N. aisle, and represenU
him confirming two natives. Notice
too the monument to Major George
Broadfoot, C.B., who was one of tha
illustrious garrison of Jellalabad.
St. Mary's Church, in the Fort,
built 1678-1680, was the first EngM
church built in India : it stands 5.
and S. Sir Thos. Munro, Lord Hoban;
and other distinguished persons an
buried here. There is some interestiof
sacramental plate dated 1698. Th*
most remarkable monument is one i
white marble reared by the E.I. Co. t»
the famous missionary Schwartz. Hi
is represented dying on his bed s8^
rounded by a group of friends, with r
angel appearing in the clouds ai
holding up a cross to his view.
On the N". side of the square, in til
Fort, is a stcUue of Lord ComwaA
under a stone canopy, on the pedesi
of which is sculptured the surrender
Tipu's two sons in 1792. This stat
is by Chantrey, and was erected in Ifll
at the joint expense of the prine^
inhabitants of Madras.
St. Andrew^, the Scotch Churdi,
Digitized by VjOO^:
THE ABMENUN OHUROH
341
m the Punamali Road, opposite the
5.1. Railway Station, Egmore, built
1818-20, cost £20,000, the architect
wing Major de Havilland. The
tfadras stucco, or chunam, in the
nterior gives to the pillars all the
?hiteness and polish of the finest
aarble. The steeple rises to the height
►f 166 ft., and the building is remark -
iblo for the complete substitution of
aasonry for timber, which might be
lestroyed by white ants.
At St. Thom^, rather more than 2
D. due S. of the Fort, there is a small
»nt pretty church situated on the top
f a sand dune within a few yards of
he sea.
St. Thom^, Roman Catholic Cathe-
Iral, a short distance N., is an old
tnicture, and has the reputation of
>eing buUt over the earthly remains of
>t Thomas. On the S. side, beneath
large trap-door, his tomb is pointed
•ut (see p. 342).
The Armenian Church in Black
'own, a quaint old building well worth
. visit, bears on its street portal the
late 1712.
St. Matthias' Church, Vepery, is
emarkable as having been given by
idmiral Boscawen as a recompense for
he one near the beach which was
estroyed during the war between the
French and English. It belongs to the
/hnrch of England.
In Black Town, EyruimUl Churchy the
Church Mission Chapelj and the Wes-
zyan Chapel. The Roman Catholic
'athedral is in Armenian Street in
Mack Town.
The Woman's Medical Mission and
Ichools and second Tamil church of
he Free Church of Scotland are in
he Royapooran suburb N.
The Onn-carriage Factory. — This
I one of the oldest institutions in
ladras. It was originally established
1 1802, at Seringapatam, but as the
apply of timber from the teak forests
f Mysore and Coorg failed, it was re-
loved to Madras in 1830.
Tl^e Mut^ema is situated about 2 m.
to the W. of the Fort, on the Pantheon
Road. The collection was ori^ally
formed in 1846, and arranged in the
College Hall by Dr. Balfour. In 1857
it was removed to the present building,
then known as the Pantheon. During
the forty years that have passed since
then the work of collection has been
going on steadily, until now it contains
a unique assortment of interesting
specimens, which have made the name of
the Madras Museum &mous amongst
modern scientists. The Museum is
open daily to visitors from 6.80 a.m.
to 5 P.M., Sundays excepted. The
afternoon of the first Saturday in the
month is reserved for the reception of
native ladies. The total number of
visitors to the Museum amounts to
nearly 400, 000 annually. The Victoria
Teclmical Institute, New Theatre,
and Connemara Library within the
compound of the Museum is a large
block of buildings designed by Hy.
Irwin, CLE.
The very extensive library of the
Literary Society, a branch of the
Royal Asiatic Society, is at the Con-
nemara Library. The Mackenzie MSS. ,
in upwards of 60 gigantic volumes, may
be noticed, containing a mass of
historical and legendary lore respecting
the S. of India. There is also a
portrait of the well-known French
missionary, the Abb^ Dubois, dressed
as a native of India. He spent 25
years in Mysore.
The Botanical Gardens, near the
Cathedral, comi)rise an area of about 22
acres, and are laid out in a highly orna-
mental manner. Many rare trees,
shrubs, and plants are to be seen there ;
one of the great attractions being the
splendid Victoria Regia, in a couple of
small ponds. The Society possesses a
valuable Library containing many rare
works. The Gardens were brought
into existence mainly through the
efforts of Dr. Wright about the year
1836.
The Observatory is about 1 m. W.
of the Museum, and has been in charge
of very eminent men. It ori^ated
Digitized by VjOOQ
348
MADRAS 0IT7
IniM
in a sniall private observatory started
in 1787 by Mr. W. Petrie, a scientific
member of Ooancil. The building was
erected in 1793 by Michael Tapping,
under orders from the directors or the
E.I.C., and stands in N. lat. 13'*4'r,
E. long. 80"* 17' 22*.
The boildii^ known as the Old Col-
lege, not far &om the Observatory, is
now used as the office of the Director
of Public Instruction.
The Central Railway Station is one
of the finest in India.
SlTBUBBS.
On the way to Ouindy, the Race-
course, and the other southern suburbs
is Marmalong Bridge (said to be
Mamillamma, ** Our Lady of the Man-
goes") spanning the Adyar river. It
has 29 arches. Near the N. end is an
inscription in English, Latin, and
Persian, which says that the expenses
of the bridge were defrayed from a
legacy left for the purpose by Adrian
Fourbeck, a merchant of Madras.
The Little Mount. — This curious spot
is about 5 m. S.W. of the Fort It is
on a rocky eminence on 1. after crossing
Marmalong Bridge. A flight of steps
leads to the Church. On the I. is a
litter in which they carry the effigy of
the Virgin. On the left of the entrance
is a portrait of St. Thomas, with an
old Portuguese inscription. Descend-
ing some steps on the left, a slope leads
down to a cavern hewn out of the solid
rock. It is necessary to stoop very low
to enter the cave, and there is nothing
to see but a narrow aperture which lets
in the daylight ; and through this
fissure they tell you St. Thomas escapd
the Indians who wished to slay him.
In the vestry-room is a Missal with
the date 1793. They show a dark cell
full of bats, said to be the oldest part
of the church, where St Thomas
himself worshipped. To the W. is a
hole in the rock in which is a little
water, said to have been miraculously
produced by him. This is called the
Fountain. Outside are some rocks
said to be marked with the feet, knees,
and hands of St. Thomas. The general
belief is that St Thomas was martyred '
at Mylapore, which H. H. Wilson
( TraTtsaetioTis of Boy. As. Soe. voL i ^
161) identifies with Mihilaropye, or
Mibilapur, now St Thom^. The
martyrdom is said to have taken placeon
the 21st of December 68 1.D.; andHeber
says {Journal, vol. iil p. 212, 4th ed.):
< * I see no good reason lor doubting that
it is really the place." In the Anglo-
Saxon Chron. (p. 857, Bohn*8 ed.) itis
said: **This year (883), Sighehn and
Athelstan carried to Rome the alms
which Alfr^ had vowed to send
thither, and also to India to St
Thomas and to St. Bartholomew."
Gibbon refers to it, ch. 48. Bishop
Dorotheus, bom 254 A.D., in a fragment
in the Paschal Chron. says that the
Apostle Thomas suffered martyrdom at
Calamina, a town of India (see Care's
Historia Literaria, p. 107). At the
Council of Nice, 325 A.D., John, Bishop
of India, was present. St Jerome,
890 A.D., mentions Calamina as the
town in India where St Thomas died.
In Col. Yule's Marco PolOy vol il I
pp. 290, 293, 294, will be found refer
ences to other ancient notices of St |
Thomas's visit to India, and an illus-
tration of the cross mentioned above, j
Abdias, who lived at the end of the
1st century, and whose work was i
published by Lazius at Basle in 1552, I
says he remembered a book in which i
the voyage of St. Thomas to India was |
describe<L
The College of Agriculture, the SaidA- 1
pet Model Farm, the Teachers' CoUegt^ i
and the Oovemment Veterinary HospiA
taZ will be observed on the Madrs
side of the river, east of the Mouii
Road. The Model Farm is not nol
fully cultivated. Its situation tomej
out to be ill chosen on sandy unprc
ductive soil, and it is now simply use
for practical demonstrations to th
students of the College of Agriculture
1 The Rev. C. Egbert
Coll., Calcutta, has brooghl
notices of St. Thomas's vwll „ — __.
pamphlet, printed at the S.P.O.K. rrm
Vepeiy. See also Pr. Hilne Bae's Tlu Spm
Ohmnk,
>rt Kennet, of Kibor
brought togea»a.*
8*8 ^t to India mi
d by Google
THE GOVERNOR S COUNTRY HOUSE
343
The Governor's Country House at
Guindy, about 5 m. from Goveminent
House. The house standing in a large
park, with many deer, has a very hand-
some appearance, being faced with the
beautiful white chunam for which
Madras is so famous. The centre room,
which is used as a ball-room, contains
a good bust of Wellington. The
flower-garden lies to the S., and is 8^
acres in extent, and there are detached
bungalows for the staff in the park.
The Bace-course, close to Government
House, Guindy, is 1^ m. long. To the
N. you see the Great Mount and Pala-
veram, a double hill about 500 ft. high,
with a long, low range extending from
it. The races take place in the cold
weather. In the course is an obelisk
to Major Donald Mackey, who died in
1783.
St Thomas's Mount, or Great Mount
(rly. sta. 1 m. distant), is 7 m. from
the Fort, and about 3 m. from Marma-
long Bridge to the S.W. At the base
of 9ie Mount are the Cantonment and
the building which used to be the head-
quarters of the Madras Artillery : the
mess-rooms are said to be the finest in
India. There are good reading-rooms
and a valuable library. In the dining-
room are some interesting portraits.
The English Church is a few hundred
yards from the mess -house. It is a
handsome building, with a well-pro-
portioned steeple. The register of the
church goes back to 1804. There
are monuments here to several dis-
tinguished officers.
The Mount is a knoll of greenstone
and syenite about 300 ft. high, topped
by an old Armenian Church. The
ascent is by a succession of terraces
and steps. Over an archway is the
date 1726, and within are several
slabs with epitaphs. After ascending
121 steps observe the remains of a
fortification, with embrasures for guns,
and three cannon used for signals.
The church is called **The Expecta-
tion of the Blessed Virgin," and was
built by the Portuguese in 1547. To
the N.W. are the Hills of Palaveram,
and between them and the Mount are
the barracks, with a fine parade ground.
At this Church, behind the altar and
above it, is a remarkable cross with a
Nestorian inscription in Sassanian Pah-
lavi of about 800 A.D. The inscription
begins a little to right of the top of the
arch. Dr. Burnell translates it : " Ever
pure ... is in favour with Him who
bore the cross."
Sport. The immediate neighbour-
hood of Madras offers very few oppor-
tunities for sporting expeditions, al-
though there are parts of the Presidency,
such as the Western Ghats and the
Northern Circars, where as cood big
and small game shooting can be got as
anywhere else in India. Within one
day's journey of Madras big game is
not at all obtainable, but very good
snipe-shooting can be had in tne cold
weather along the line of railway to
the south, notably at Guduvancherri,
a small village about 22 miles from
Madras, where bags of 60 couple have
been shot within a few hours. The
services of a local shikari should, if
possible, be secured. On the Nuggery
Hills, about 60 miles to the N.W. of
Madras, it is still possible to obtain
some deer-stalking.
At 26 m. W. of Madras, Trivalur
sta., there are large temples ; and 4 m.
from the station is the sit© of the old
fort of Tripasore, which was captured
by Sir Eyre Coote in 1781. Tnpasore
fort was at one time the station for
the East India Co.*s cadets, and after-
wards for pensioners.
The following is from Fergusson's
History of Indian Architecture :— " The
temple of Trivalur contrasts curiously
with that at Tanjore in the principles
on which it was designed, and serves
to exemplify the mode in which, un-
fortunately, most Dravidian temples
were aggregated.
"The nucleus here was a small
village temple. It is a double shrine,
dedicated to Shiva and Jiia consort,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
344
MADRAS CITY
India
standing in a cloistered court which
measures 192 ft. x 156 ft. over all,
=•'
[
Plan of Inner Temple of Trivalur.
and has one gopura in front. So far,
there is nothing to distinguish it from
Additions were again made at some
subsequent date, the whole being
enclosed in a court 940 ft. x 701 ft—
this time with five gopuras, and several
imiwrtant shrines. When the last
addition was made, it was intended to
endow the temple with one of those
great halls which were considered
indispensable in temples of the first
class. Generally they had, or were
intended to have, 1000 columns ; this
one has only 688, and only about one
half of these carry beams of any sort
There can, however, be very little doubt
that, had time and money been avail-
able, it would have been completed to
Bird's-eye View, Temple of Trivalur.
the ordinary temples found in every
village. It, however, at some subse-
quent period became sacred or rich,
and a second or outer court was added,
measuring 470 ft. each way, with two
gopuras, nigher than the original one,
and containing within its walls num-
berless little shrines and porches.
the typical extent. As it is, it is prob-
ably owing to our management of the
revenues of the country that the
requisite funds were not forthcoming,
and the buildings stopped probabu
within the limits of the present cen-
tury.
" The general effect of such a dea^n
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ROUTE 25. HYDERABAD
345
as this may be gathered from the bird's-
eye view (woodcut, preceding page). As
an artistic design, nothing can be worse.
The gateways irregularly spaced in a
great blank wall lose half their dignity
from their positions ; and the bathos
of their decreasing in size and elabora-
tion as they approach the sanctuary
is a mistake which nothing can redeem,
We may admire beauty of detail, and
be astonished at the elaboration and
eTidence of labour, if they are found
in such a temple as this, but as an
architectural design it is altogether
detestable."
ROUTE 25
Wadi Junction to Hydekabad,
Seoundbrabad, {Goleonda.Bidar)
Waranoal, Bezwada, Vizaga-
patam, Vizianaoram, Puri and
Outtaok.
H.H. the Nizam's State Rly.
876 m. from Bombay, Wadi June. sta.
(R.) (see p. 333).
9 m. Chittapnr sta. extensive silk
manufactures. About 1 m. to the
S. is Nagai, a deserted town with
ruined temples dating from 1050 a. d.
In one of them is a life size bull cut
out of a solid block of basalt.
24 m. Seram sta. A richly carved
temple, of 1200 a.d.
44 m. Tandur sta. (R.). Small and
large game.
88 m. Shankarpalli sta. From here
is a fair weather road to Bidar, 10 m.
(see p. 351).
100 m. Lingampalli sta. Soon after
this the line is very picturesque, dotted
with numerous granite peaks and
isolated rocks. This stone belt extends
to Bhunigaon, 28 m. E. of Hyderabad.
115 m. Hyderabad sta. 3^ i§ m.
from the nearest city gate. Tlie capital
of H.H. the Nizam's territory. The
city (pop., with suburbs, 392,700)
stands on the S. bank of the Musi
river, with Oolkonda to W., and the
cantonments of the British troops, the
contingent, and the Residency and its
bazaars to the N.
The state of which Hyderabad is the
capital covers 98,000 6<j. m., with a
pop. of 10,458,930, and is by far the
largest native state in India. The city
is famed for its warlike, and variea,
population. Formerly all the inhabit-
ants always carried weapons, but owing
to the peace and prosperity which have
come with British influence, the habit
is not now universal. It is still the
custom, among the upper classes, to
carry an ornamented aagger in the
girdle, or a sword suspended from a
gold lace belt, when paying visits. In
this custom servants imitate their
masters, and most of the shopkeepers
in the bazaars continue it.
There is a very beautiful Public Plea-
sure-ground N. of the station. In this
garden are two pavilions, and at one
end a menagerie. There is also a piece
of water in the grounds. The small
branch line which connects the railway
station and the workshops is not used
for passenger traffic. Dominating the
N. part of the garden is a black rock
called Nauhat Pahary "the Guard
Rock," which is very picturesque.
Fateh MaidaUj a plain that lies be-
tween the black rock and Chadar
Ghat, is the Nizam's polo -ground.
Near the public gardens is the Saifa-
bad Cantonment of the Nizam's regular
troops. It is very neatly laid out.
There is an old mosque here built by
Khairatbai The powder-magazine is
believed to be her tomb.
The Residency stands about 1 m.
N.W. of the city in a suburb called
Chadar Ghat, and is surrounded by a
bazaar containing 12,000 inhabitants.
The grounds are extensive, and full of
grand old trees, and are enclosed by a
wall, which was strengthened by Colonel
Davidson after the attack upon the
Residency on the morning of 17th July
1857. That attack was made by a
band of Rohillas and others, and was
repulsed by the troops at the Residency
under Major Briggs, Military Secretary.
Bastions were then erected conmianding
the approaches, but the place was not
attacked again.
On the site of the Residency there
was formerly a villa belonging to a
favourite of Nizam 'Ali, and in it Sir
John Kennaway, who was appointed
Resident in 1788, w^ reoeived. fk^
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346
ROUTE 25. WADI JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
India
present Residency was built 1803-8.
The N. front, at which is the Grand
Entrance, looks away from the Musi
river and the city. In the stately hall
is a picture of General Cubbon at one
end and a portrait of the Rajah of Mysore
at the other. Between them is a picture
of Chandu Lai in a white turban and
robe. The chandeliers cost a prodigious
sum, and the lighting of the Kesidency
in former times for a single reception-
night entailed an expense of £1000.
On such occasions the crowd was so
great and the number of those who
tried to force an entrance so excessive
that swords were often drawn. While
the male visitors were received by the
Resident, their wives were entertained
in a mansion attached to the Resi-
dency, called the Rang Mahal which
no longer exists. To the "W. of the
Residency is a private mansion for the
Resident, where he can withdraw into
complete privacy. Among the trees the
visitor will remark four enormous speci-
mens of the Fiats mdica, the trunk of
one measuring 80 ft round. There is
also a very gigantic tamarind tree. The
Park contams an obelisk raised by the
officers of the Russell Brigade to the
memory of Lieut. William John Darby,
who was killed in 1815 within the city
of Hyderabad, while gallantly leading
the grenadiers in a charge agamst some
rebels.
The City is in shape a trapezoid.
The total area is 2 m. : it is modem
and has no very remarkable buildings,
but the bazaars are extremely pictur-
esque and thronged with natives from
all parts of India. On the N.W.
side are five Chiteways, viz. on the ex-
treme E. the Chadar Ghat Gate ; next
on the W.'the Delhi or Afzal Gung Gate ;
next in the same direction are the
Champa, the Char Mahal, and the
Old Bridge Gates in succession. In
the S. W. side there is first, the Dudhni
Gato, then the Fateh, which is exactly
in the centre, and then the 'Aliabad in
the S.W. comer. In the S. side are
the Gaulipur and the Ghaziband, and
on the E. side are the Mir Jumlah, the
Y'akubnur, and the Daudpur Gates.
The Musi river on the N.W. side
is crossed ty three Bridges, Farthest
to the E. is the Oliphant Bridge,
which was erected in 1831 by Colonel
Oliphant, of the Madras Engineers,
afterwards a director of the KLC.
The next bridge to the W. is the Afral
Gung Bridge, and then oomes tiie Old
Bri(^. Crossing the river by the Afral
Gung Bridge, the traveller passesnear the
Residency School and the City Hospital.
ThQ Afzal OungMuajid (Mosque), which
adjoins the hospital to the K., is a
noble building with four lofty minarets.
On the other side of the road is i
hospital for women, which for some
time waspresided over by an American
lady. This establishment can be in-
spected by ladies only.
Crossing the bridge and passing
through the Afzal Gung Gate, the
traveUer finds himself in a broad street,
which runs from it completely tfcrou^
the city. A few hundred yaras farther
is the Fala^ of the late Sir ScUar Jang
Bahadur f G.C.S.I., whose able ad-
ministration of the state is a matter
of history. Sir Salar's palace is called
the Barahdari, a common name for
Salaces orpavilions, literally "twelve
oors." The great drawing-room con-
tains a number of portraite of former
Residente and other distinguished per-
sonages. It looks upon a small piece
of water with founteins. The ganiens
are tastefully laid out The Sili Khana
contains curious specimens of old
weapons and coats of mail. Close te it
is the Chini Ehana, about 14 ft square
and 12 ft. high, covered with china
cemented to tne walls, some of which
is said to be valuable. Proceeding
along the central street, at about |
m. from the Afzal Bridge is a rectan-
gular building with four minarets, hence
called the Char Minor, 186 ft hi^h
and 100 ft. wide on each side, built in
1691, formerly a college, occupying the
most central position in the city where
the four main roads meet Just before
reaching it, one passes under an arch
which is called the Machhi Kaman, or
"Arch of the Fish," the fish being a
badge of M^h rank. There are four
arches 50 ft. high across the streete, one
to each quarter of the compass. Here,
too, is a small garden callea the Gulsar,
or Charsu. A little to the E. of the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 25. HYDERABAD
347
Char Minar is the Mecca Musjid, the
principal mosque in the city, and so
called from its resemblance to the
mosqne at Mecca. It is a grand but
sombre building, with four minars and
six arches in front, occupying one side
of a paved quadrangle 360 n. square.
During the Mohammedan festivals as
many as 8000 or 10,000 people assemble
here for prayer. In the centre are two
I>oli8hed stone slabs, said to be taken
from a Hindu temple.
The Nizam'B Palace is on the W.
side of the Char Minar : the Chauk,
or principal street, gives access to the
Nizam* 8 Palace, where a gateway leads
to a quadrangle about the size of that of
Christ Church, Oxford. At the S.W.
comer of this there is a lane which leads
into a second quadrangle, in which are
generally about 2000 servants, horse-
men, etc. ; a passage from the S.W.
comer of this leads into a third quad-
rangle about the size of Lincoln's Inn
Fields, where 1000 or 2000 attendants
are generally to be found. The build-
ings on each side are handsome, and
resemble the Shah's palace at Teheran,
but are finer. Persons invited here dis-
mount from their elephants, and are
received by the Chamberlain, who wears
a white robe. They are conducted
into a haudsome pavilion, filled with
courtiers, handsomely furnished, and
with fiveimmense chandeliers. It is said
that the palace contains 7000 persons.
During the Muharram, H.H. s troops
to the number of 80,000 pass in proces-
sion in front of the palace, and the spec-
tacle is altogether a very magnificent
one. The procession takes place on the
5th of Muharram : it is called the
Langar, and is said to be in honour of
Kutb-u-din Kuli Shah, the sovereign,
who built the Char Minar and the
Mecca Musjid. Various stories are
told about this procession. It is said
that Langar (a chain) means the chain
with which an elephant is confined,
and that Eutb-u-din Euli Shah was
run away with by his elephant, which
suddenly became furious and rushed
about for three days, keeping the king
without food and in peril of his life.
On the third day it became tractable,
and the Lomga/r was fastened on it. In
a side street 200 yds. beyond the palace
is the house in which the well-known
minister Chandu Lai died. It is a low
but highly-ornamented Hindu house.
Beyond the Chauk, where all the
mercers live, and near the "W. wall of
the city, is the vast palace of the Barak-
dari, which was built by the Shamsu-'l-
umara. It covers a laree space, is
handsomely furnished, ana contains a
gigantic suit of armour and many
mechanical curiosities, also a number
of ostriches, which are ridden by men.
The birds travel with great speed, but
are very difficult to manage. From the
top of this palace there is a fine view
over the city. To the W. Golkonda
Fort is seen, and the mausoleums of the
kings close by it. A silver streak be-
tween marks the position of the Mir
'Alam tank. One can see also the Pul-
i'Purana, or Old Bridge. To the S.
the Jehan Nwnva Palace is visible, and
a mosque built by the Amir Eabir.
The Jehan Numa, also built by the
Shamsu-'l-umara, in a suburb of the
same name outside the 'Aliabad Gate,
is reached by a causeway built across
rice -fields. Adjoining it is a very
long bazaar, consisting of neatly-built
houses, forming two long but narrow
ellipses. These houses seem to be ren ted
at particular times to the attendants of
great personages coming to visit the
city. Beyond is a court where there
are hundreds of soldiers, horse and foot.
At the end of this is a carpeted staircase
which leads into a reception-room. The
palace is full of curiosities of all kinds.
A morning may be passed in visiting
the Mir *Alami Tank, which is 2 m.
from the S. wall of the city. The
lake is 7 m. round. The embankment
is formed of twenty-one granite arches
laid on their sides, presenting their
convex surfaces to the pressure of the
water. It is 1120 yds. long, and was
built by French engineers at a cost of
£80,000. There are several steamers
on the lake ; one for hire.
At 800 yds. from the bank is a
bungalow, where you can take refresh-
ments, if you bring any with you. At
the extreme W. end of the lake, which
has picturesque coves and windings, is
a wooded hill abput 80 ft. high,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
348
ROUTE 25. WADI JUNCTION TO BBZWADA
India
sunnonnted by a building which is
the Dargah, or shrine, of Makbub Alt.
In order to see the dargah you have to
disembark and walk about a J m. away
from the lake, and then ascend a
number of steps. The dargah is a beau-
tiful structure and well placed, looking
down on the waters of the lake that
ripple at the foot of the cliff on which
it stands. It is small but symmetrical,
and was once covered with blue tiles.
The Race -course MvZkapet is a fine
piece of level ground E. of the city.
The race-meeting is held in November,
and lasts for five days. H.H. the
Nizam gives invaluable assistance and
dispenses princely hospitality.
121 m. Secunderabad sta. if. 5i m.
N. of the Hyderabad Residency, is the
British military cantonment ; and one
of the largest in India, covering 19 sq.
m. The Hyderabad Subsidiary Force
is maintained by the British Govern-
ment from the revenues of the Districts
ceded by the treaty of 1853. It is
1830 ft. above sea -level. The road
from Hyderabad to Secunderabad,
flanked on the W. by the Husmin
Saugar Tanh^ is lined by handsome
villas, many of them built by wealthy
natives and officials of the Nizam's
Court. This is the fashionable drive,
and many magnificent equipages may
be seen here. In a villa called Pestanji
Kothii originally built by a Parsi who
farmed the revenues, is a picture of
General Palmer, who married a Begam
of Oudh. St, George's Churchy which
most of the English inhabitants of
Chadar Ghat attend, is 200 yds. N. of
Pestanji Eothi. In the churchyard are
a numoer of tombs. Among them is
that of the famous William Palmer,
who was called "King Palmer," and
was the head of the great house who
banked for the Nizam. He was the
son of General Palmer and the Begam.
His tablet is eulogistic of his third
wife, on whose fortune he was supported
after the failure of the house.
The Parade-ground at Secunderabad
is of immense extent, and admits of a
large brigade manoeuvring upon it.
On the N. side are many officers'
houses, the railway station, which is
handsomely built of granite, and the
church, which is large enough to hold
a European regiment. On the S. side
of the Parade-ground is the cemetery,
in which a vast number of officers are
btiried. The Assembly Booms and
theatre are conveniently situated on
the Parade-ground. Near the former
is the Mitd Fort, in which some artil-
lery are quartered.
At Trixnalgiri, 3 m. N.E. of Secun-
derabad, is an entrenched camp. It is
so placed that the Europeans in Bolaram
and Secunderabad could at once retire
into it. It is surrounded by a ditch 7
ft. deep, and a rampart rising from the
inner side of the ditch to the height of
7 ft., with a stone revetment. There
are several bastions on which guns are
mounted, and also a bomb-proof. The
camp is well supplied with water from
wells, and has a commissariat store
and bakery. The Military Prison here
is popularly called Windsor Gistle,
from its high tower and castellated
look. This prison stands due W. of
the S.W. bastion of the entrenchment.
The Hospital for the European in-
fantry, a handsome white building,
is due S. of the S.E. bastion.
Bolaram is the military cantonment
of the Hyderabad Contingent Force.
It is situated 6 m. N. of Secunderabad,
and 11m. from the city of Hyderabad,
and is 1890 ft. above sea-level.
[EXOUKSIONS FROM HYDERABAD.
( 1 ) The Tomb of M. Raymond, at Samv
Nagar. — This will require a whole morn-
ing or evening. The traveller will drive
or ride across the Oliphant Bridge, and
proceed 3^ m. to the S.E. of the city and
into the suburb of Saruv Nagar, He
will thus have arrived in the hunting-
grounds of H.H. the Nizam. The
country here is accidents, rough ground
with woods enclosed in stone walls,
about 7 ft. high. Innumerable herds
of black buck and spotted deer wander
over this track undisturbed, for no one
may fire at them without permission,
and all they have to dread is an occasional
chase from the hunting leopard, and
now and then a few shots from some
distinguished sportsman. There is a
carriage -road passing through these
grounds. The traveler will soon per-
Digitized byLjOOQlC
ROUTE 26. GOLKONDA
349
ceive Saymmtds Tomh, which stands
on very high ground. At the foot of
this eminence is a rest > house for
Indians, open in front. On the high
ground above this, on a spacious
chabutarahf or terrace, is an obelisk of
gray stone, 25 ft. high, with simply the
letters J. R. on each side. Farther
S., at the end of the chubutarah, is an
edifice like a Grecian temple, where
travellers may repose and enjoy the
air, which is here comparatively cool,
even in August. No date is recorded ;
but the gallant Frenchman in whose
honour this fine structure has been
erected died in March 1798. General
Raymond served for several years under
Hyder 'Ali. At the time of his death
he had 15,000 weU- disciplined troops
at his command, and possessed more
power than the British Resident. Each
anniversary of Raymond's death is
celebrated at the tomb by a grand
uniSf which is attended by some
thousands of irregular troops from
the city. The tomb and platform are
illuminated, salutes are fired, and
stories are told of the greatness and
kindness of Mtcsa Rahim (son of Moses),
as he is called.
It is here that the hunting with
leopards takes place. The leopards are
generally taken in pairs, and are hooded,
until a black buck passes near enough
to be chased. The run is generally wr
about 400 yds., when the leopard over-
takes its victim, strikes it to the ground,
and sucks blood from its neck.
Hyderabad maintains a considerable
manufacture of textile fabrics, carpets,
velvets for horse -trappings, and a
material composed of cotton and silk, —
for Mohammedans must not wear pure
silk. Red earthenware is also exten-
si-^ely made here.
(2) GOLKONDA, 7 m. from the Char
Minar, was the capital of the Kutb
Shahi kingdom, 1512-1687, overthrown
Dv Aurangzib. Few persons succeed in
ootaining a pass to visit the Fort with-
out the aid of the Residency officials.
The passes, when granted, are issued
by the Commandant of the Fort, who
lives usually in Hyderabad. There is
no use in going without a pass to see
the Fort, but the tombs of the kings
may be visited. The place is surrounded
by a strongly-built crenellated stone^
waU or curtain, a little over 3 m. in
circumference, with 87 bastions of solid
granite blocks at the angles, on which
there are still some of the old Kutb
Shahi guns, some with their breeches
blown out, others with iron rods thrust
into them by the Emperor Aurangzib's
orders in 1687 to render them useless.
The moat which surrounds the outer
wall is choked up with rubbish in many
places. The Fort, now used as the
Nizam's treasury and a state prison,
originally had eight gates, but of these
four only are now in use, namely, the
Banjara, Fateh, Mecca, and Jamali.
When the first of the Nizams took
possession of the place, he added a new
wall to the fortifications on the E., so
as to include a small hiU formerly situ-
ated outside the Fort walls, fi*om which
it would have been difficult to dislodge
an enemy that had occupied the posi-
tion. Tiie large sheet of water in front
of this portion of the Fort is styled the
Nizam Saugar Tank,
The Banjara Gate, which now forms
one of the chief entrances to the Fort,
is a massive structure of granite, with
chambers on either side for the guard,
and a pair of high teak -wood gates
studded!^ with iron wrought into
various fanciful devices and huge
sharp -pointed iron spikes, which were
intended to prevent elephants from
battering them in. The road from
here passes straight through the Fort
to the gate on the W. side. The north-
em portion of the ground enclosed
by the wall has very few ruins upon
it, although it was at one time most
thickly populated ; indeed, the ground
inside the walls is said to have been
so valuable that it used to sell for one
ashrafi (20 rs.) per yard. The eastern
and southern portions are strewn with
the ruins of palaces, mosques, and the
dwelling-houses of the nobles and re-
tainers of the Kutb Shahi kings. A
short distance from the gate just men-
tioned is a hu^e stone cistern. Beyond
the cavalry lines are the Ndu Mahal
(nine palaces) of the Nizams. They
are surrounded by a high wall, and
stand in the midsti^f a pleasant garden
Digitized by VjOOQ
360
ROUTE 25. WADI JUNOnON TO BBZWADA
India
of orange and other fruit trees. The
court used frequently to be held here.
Beyond the Nau Mahal the ruins
thicken. It is, however, impossible to
identify most of them. There is a
lofty granite structure, said to have
been used as a Nakar Khcma (music-
room), or Mad/rissa (college), which
forms the entrance to the fii^ line of
the Bala Sisar, or citadel fortifica-
tion. A little to the right of this is
the Jumma Musjid, a small building.
An Arabic inscription over the gateway
states that it was erected in 1569 A.D.
The Bala Hisar is on the summit
of the hill, enclosed by the Fort walls.
Its height above the plain may be
roughly estimated at 400 ft. Passing
throu^n a garden, the Bala Hisar
Gate IS rea(med. It is one of the
largest in the Fort, and has been put
in good repair. Adjoining the gate-
way on the right side are the ruins
of the quarters of the garrison main-
tained nere in the time of the Kutb
Shahi monarchs. Opposite the quarters
of the garrison is a vast upper-storied
building of granite, caUed the Sili
Khana, or armoury, where spare arms
and ammunition were kept. From
here the ascent to the summit is
accomplished by a series of roughly-
jwived steps. Half-way up is a large
well, from which the gamson used to
get its water-supply.
A short distance from here are the
ruins of the Ambar Khana, or kind's
treasure-house. A block of granite
which has fallen from its position over
the entrance contains a Persian in-
scription to the effect that it was
erected in the reign of Abdullah Kutb
Shah, 1642 A.D. Here the last line of
wall which encircles the citadel is
readied. In its construction advantage
has, jbeen taken of the huge boulders,
which have in some instances been made
the bases of the wall. The masonry
must be several hundred years old.
On the summit of the hill formerly
stood the Ki/ng's Palace, the ruins of
which still form a conspicuous object.
The front appears to have beeii oc-
cupied by a large courtyard, sur-
rounded by buUdings, very few of
which, however, now remain. On the
W. side are the ruins of the palace,
the walls of which are of a great thick-
ness. The building appears to have
been supported on loffy arches, most
of which are still standing. In one
comer there is a large circular opening,
said to be the entrance of a subterranean
passage extending to the Gosha Mahal,
3 m. mstant. Most probably, however,
the passage, if there is one, extends
only as far as the lower fortifications.
A stone staircase in the W. side of the
building leads to the roof, which is ^t»
and is surmounted by a small stone
tahhti or throne.
The mew from here, embracing as it
does many miles of country, is at aU
times charming, and well worth the
rather fatiguing climb from below.
To the E. lies the present capital,
Hyderabad, surrounded with ^u:aens,
from amidst which domes and spires
shoot up towards the sW ; in the fore-
ground is the beautiful Mir ' Alam Tank ;
far away to the N. is the cantonment
of Secunderabad and the Koh Sheriff
(Maul Ali hill). Below lie the ruins
of the once famous Kutb Shahi capital,
intersected with the massive-looking
fortifications which gave Aurangzib
much more trouble than he anticipated,
and which, but for treachery within,
would probably have resisted all his
efforts. In the Lower Fort, on the N.
side, there is a deer preserve belonging
to H.H. the Nizam, who sometimes
comes to shoot here. In the plain
outside the walls of the Fort are the
remains of two stone platforms with
seats, from which the kings used to
review their troops. 1 m. to the N. W. ,
built upon two eminences, are the
Barahdari and Mu^id of Bagmati
(after whom Hyderabad was first
called Bhagnagar), a favourite mis-
tress of the Kutb Shah king, Muham-
mad Kuli. Beyond the Banjara Gate
are the massive tombs of aU the
Golkonda kin^. On aU sides rise
masses of granite and low hills, taking
the most fantastic shapes, and some-
times appearing like subsidiary forts
erected oy the hand of man. The
popular legend as regards the peculi-
arity of their position and appearance
is that the Creator after finishing tiie
d by Google
ftOtlTE 25. QOLKOatA
351
oonstraotion of the world threw away
the surplus material here.
The Kings' Tomb8.-~On the plain
to the N. and K, about 600 yds. from
the fortress, stand the tombs of the
Eutb Shahi kings, who reigned here
for upwards of 170 years. Most of
them nave suffered firom decay and the
hands of visitors, who have not
scrupled to plunder the enamelled tiles
and other architectural adornments
which once contributed to place them
among the best and most remarkable
Mohammedan mausolea in the Deccan.
During the Ions siege of Golkonda
in 1687 the tombs and the gardens
which surrounded them were converted
into barracks and camping-grounds by
Aurangzib's soldiers. It is said that
pieces of artillery were also mounted
upon them wherewith to bombard the
Fort The last of the Kutb Shahi
kings, Abu-'l-Hassan, had partly finished
the erection of his own sepulclire, when
he was sent off by his imperial captor
to end his days in the fortress of
Daulatabad. He died there in 1701,
and is the only one of the Kutb Shahis
not interred here. His unfinished
tomb is the farthest from the Fort, and
is completely in ruins. After the
departure of the captive king and his
conqueror, the tombs, neglected and
deserted, soon began to show signs of
decay. In this condition they re-
mained till the late Sir Salar Jang
had those that were not too much
ruined carefully repaired, and re-
planted the gardens which had formerly
existed around some of them. The
late minister also enclosed seven tombs,
which are aU built within a short dis-
tance of each other, with a substantial
stone wall, and planted the gardens,
through which pleasantly hiid-out
walks lead to each tomb, with fine
shade and fruit trees. The tombs
standing within this enclosure are
those of Jamshid Euli, the second
king, who died in 1550 ; Haiyat Baksh
Begam, the daughter of Ibrahim Kuli
Eutb Shah, and the wife of Sultan
Muhammad, the fifth king, and the
mother of Sultan Abdulla Kutb Shah,
the sixth and last but one of the Eutb
Shahi line (the date of her death, as in-
scribed on the tomb, is 1027 ▲.H. = 1617
A.D.), etc. Outside the walled en-
closure and garden, to the N., is the
tomb of Muhammad Euli Eutb Shah,
who died in 1035 A.H. = 1625 A.D. This
king founded the city of Hyderabad,
and erected many public emfioes and
palaces. This is the finest of the
tombs, and is 168 ft. high from the
basement to the summit of the dome,
the latter being 60 ft high. Beyond
this is the tomb of Ibrahim Euli Eutb
Shah, the fourth king, who died in
988 A.H. =1680 A.D. To the S. of it is
the tomb of Sultan Muhammad Amin,
king Ibrahim's youngest son, who died
in 1004 A. H. = 1595 A.D. A short dis-
tance from here in a N. direction is the
tomb of Eulsum Begam, and close to
it is that of the first of the Eutb
Shahi kings. Sultan Euli Eutb, who
died in 950 A.H. = 1643 A.D. Between
the waUed enclosure already alluded to
and the Fort walls is the tomb of the
sixth king, Abdulla Eutb Shah, who
died in 1083 a.h. = 1672 A.D., after a
reign of forty-eight years. This is one
of the finest tombs here, being enriched
with very fine carvings and minarets
at each comer of the matform.
The dianumds of Golkonda, which
have become proverbial, were cut and
polished here, but came principally
from Purtialt on the S.£. frontier of
the Nizam's territory, and Eollur in the
Eistna district.
(3) 78 m. by road N.W. of Hydera-
bad is the renowned city of Bidar.
The majority of the palaces, mosques,
and other buildings with which the
Bahmani kings (who were overthrown
by the Eutb Shahi dynasty in 1512)
adorned their capital are now in ruins,
but there is enough remaining to give
an idea of the former magnificence of
the place. The Madrissa, or college,
and the Mosque are amongst the most
remarkable. The walls are fine and
are well preserved. Bidar is famous
for ornamental metal, called Bidri-
work. The metal is composed of an
alloy of copper, lead, tin, and zinc.
It is worked into fancy articles orna-
mented with silver and gold.]
Leaving Secunderabad, the Nizam's
State Rly. continues £. to
d by Google
352
BOUTS 25a. bezwaba to vizagafatah
India
208 m. Warangal sta., whence a
line N. up tlie Godavari valley to
join the G.I. P. Rly. at Warora is
in progress. Warangal (pop. 3400)
was the ancient capital of the Hindu
kingdom of Telingana, and the scene
of many struggles between the Hindu
and Mohammedan powers previous
to its absorption into the Golkonda
kingdom in the 16th century. The
antiquarian will find here interesting
remains of Chalukyan architecture,
especially 4 so-called Kirti StambhaSj
or archways, facing one another, as if
forming the entrance to some enclosure,
but their purpose is not known. There
are many small shrines here and also
at Hamrnonccmdah (6 m. N.), the old
capital, which possesses the remains of
a fine metropolitan temple dated 1163.^
Warangal has long been celebrated for
its carpets and rugs. The * * shatrangis "
are woven from cotton twist.
261 m. Domakal June. sta. [Branch
to Yellanda 14 m. where are coal mines,
on which 8000 coolies are at work ; and
rich beds of iron ore.]
318 m. British Frontier sta. (R.)
328 m. Kondapatti sta. Ruins of a
once celebrated fortress, built in a.d.
1360. It was taken by Aurungzeb in
1687 and by the British, under General
Caillaud, in 1766.
338 m. Bezwada or Kistna sta. (R.),
D.B., see p. 358. [Branch to Guntakal
June. p. 334.] This is the terminus of
the Nizam's State Railway. The travel-
ler proceeds by the East Coast Rly. to
375 m. Ellore sta. (R.) Formerly
capital of the Northern Circars, it is
now famous only for its carpets. The
Godavery and Kistna Canal systenis
join here.
429 ra. Godavery. From here there
is a steam ferry across the Godavery to
Rajahmundrv, but a big railway bridge
(56 spans of 150 feet) is about to be
erected.
431 m. Rajahmundry. (R) (pop.
20, 000). It is the old seat of the Orissa
Kings in the S. and of the Venzi Kings.
It contains a large jail, a museum,
fublic gardens, and a provincial College,
t is regarded by the Telugus as their
chief town. The Gorge, 20 to 30 miles
1 FergussoD, p. 389.
up, where the Godavery issues from
the hills , is well worth a visit as it
forms one of the most beautiful pieces
of scenery in Southern India — a succes-
sion of Highland lochs in an Eastern
setting. A few miles down the river
from Rajahmundry are the head-works
of the magnificent Godavery Delta
Irrigation system first designed by Sir
Arthur Cotton, — the anicut, or dam,
is a huge piece of masonry 4 miles in
length from bank to bank.
461 m. Samalkot sta. junc. for
Cocaizada Town 8 m. and Cocanada
Port 10 m., connected with the Godavery
R. by navigable canals. Cocanada is
the principal port, after Madras, on
the Coromandel Coast and is the head-
quarters of the Godavery District
Ships lie in safety in the Roads
(Coringa Bay) which, though shallow,
are protected to the south by a sandy
promontory at the mouths of the
Godavery. The jetties and wharves
and business houses are on the banks
of a canal leading into the Roads, and
connected with the Delta canal system.
495 m. Tuni sta. (R.)
554 m. Waltair junc. sta. [Short
branch for
Vizagapatams^ 2m. Yizagapatam,
the chief town of the District of that
name, is a growing seaport, situated
on a small estuary of which the pro-
montory at the S. extremity is called
the Dolphin's Nose. The estuary forms
the only naturally protected harbour
on the Coromandel Coast, but the bar
is too shallow to admit vessels of deep
draught and consequently they have to
anchor outside. Most of the European
residents live in the suburb of Waltair
to the N. of the town, which stands on
elevated ground composed of red later-
ite rocks. Vizagapatam and Waltair
are extremely beautiful viewed from
the sea. The manufacture of panjam
cloth is a speciality of the District, as
that of ornamental articles of ivory,
buffalo-horn, and silver filigree work is
of the town.
18 m. N. E. of Vizagapatam is
Bimlapatam (pop. 10,000) a thriving
port where coasting steamers touch-]
592 m. Vizianagram (R.) the duef
town of one of the most extensive
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROOte 26. OAOAO itJTSCmOTS) TO bE2WA]>A
dS3
Zemindari estates in India. The Town
consists of the Cantonment on rising
ground and the Fort (1 mile distant)
almost entirely occupieid by the Palace
Buildings, etc., of the Maharaja.
Halfway between the Fort and Canton-
ment is a large tank possessing a con-
stant supply of water. The Market
was built to commemorate the visit of
H.E.H. the Prince of Wales.
636 m. Chicacole Road sta. for
Chicacole, a large town which contains
a noble mosaue built in 1641 by Sheer
Mahomed Khan, the first Mussalman
Faujdan. In 1791 Chicacole was nearly
depopulated by famine, and it again
suffered severely in 1866. In 1876 a
flood swept away six arches of the
Langulya Bridge. It was formerly
celebrated on account of its very fine
muslins.
727 m. Berhampur sta. (R.) chief
town of the Ganjam District (pop.
30^000). It is noted for its tussur silk
cloths and gold-embroidered turbans.
740 m. Chatrapur sta., beautifully
situated on high ground above the sea,
headquarters of the District Magistrate
and UoUector. A canal runs parellel
with the sea-shore to Qopalpur, the
chief seaport of the Ganjam District.
750 m. Huimna sta. for Qanjam,
which is situated on the Rushkuliya.
Ganjam was formerly chief port and
town of the District, but in the early
part of the century it was ravaged by
an epidemic of fever and abandoned in
consequence. There are many ruins of
handsome buildinprs that once adorned
it. The Fort, which was commenced
in 1768 by Mr. Cotsford, the first
Resident in Ganjam, still forms an
interesting ruin, and recals memories
of former Residents and Chiefs in
CouBcilj who were engaged here partly
in political, and partly in commercial,
enterprises for the East India Company.
The adjoining cemetery contains some
interesting old monuments.
766 m. Bambha sta. for the southern
end of the Chilka Lake, which extends
northwards for 40 miles into the Bengal
province of Orissa, the frontier village
beinj? Bnrcool. The Lake averages 10
miles in width, and is separated by a
aarrow stretch of sand from the sea.
[Jrwim]
Its scenery is of surpassing beauty, in
the background being the jungle-clad
hills of the Eastern Ghats. It is
dotted with islands on which, as on
the mainland, game of all kinds abound,
while in the cold season its surface is
crowded with wild -fowl of many
varieties. The Lake is shallow, seldom
exceeding 6 feet in depth. The water
is brackish, and there is a very slight
tide at the southern end, the sea
running into it at Manickpatnam.
The trade is carried on in flat-bottomed
boats of peculiar structure with lateen
sails of bamboo-matting. At Rambha
there is a large house on the margin of
the lake built by Mr. Snodgrass in 1792 :
it is believed, from Famine funds. It is
now the property of Mr. Minchin, pro-
prietor of a distillery and sugar factory
at Aska in the interior of the District.
770 m. Burcool. The frontier sta.
between the Madras and Bengal Presi-
dencies.
818 m. Ehnrda Road June. sta. for
Purl, or Jagannatli (branch line 47 m.).
Puri is one of the chief, if not the chief,
place of Hindu pilgrimage in India.
(Seep. 277.)
830 m. Bbuyaneahwar sta. , see p. 283.
840 m. Barang sta., see Outtaok
sta., p. 288. The rly. crosses the Ma-
hanaoi River to Cuttack. The rly. line
is now completed from here to Caicuttay
236 m., but there was not time to de-
scribe it before going to press with this
edition.
EOUTE 26
Gadag Junction to Vijayanagab
{BlJANAGAR)f BeLLARY, GuNTAKAL
Junction, and Bezwada.
This route is the E. portion of the
railway that crosses the peninsula of
India from Marmagoa on the W. coast
to Bezwada, near the mouth of the
Kistna River, on the E. The W. por-
tion is described in Rte. 22.
Gadag junct. sta. (R.), D.B. [Branch
via Bijapur to Ilotgi junct. on the
G.LP. Rly.]
58. m. Hospet sta. (R). D.B.
From, this point Vijaiianagar and
Hampi (9 m.) can most conveniently
be visited, r^ \
Digitized by LjOOQI^ ^
»54
BdtJTB 26. GADAG JtJNCTtOJy TO BEZWADA
India
(Bxcnnion to V^ayanaflrur
(HJanaffar) and HampL «
Hampi is the site of the ancient
capital of the Vijayanagar kings, ^ who
dominated South India from 1118 to
1564 A.D. The ruins cover 6 sq. m.,
including KarruUapur on the S. and
Aiiagundit the latter seat of the dyn-
asty N. of the Tungahhadra River.
Kamalapur D. B. , is 7 m. N. £. fix)m
Hospct. An old temple has been con-
whose descendants flomished here till the
battle of Talikot, 1564, andaftoiiwdsst
Anagnndi, Vellore, and Ohandragiri for
another century, until finally over-
whelmed by the advancing Mohim-
medan powers of Bnapur and Golkonda.
During the two and a quarter oentaries
that %e Vijayanagar BAJas held the
city of Hampi they extended it and
beautified it with palaces and temples.
The traveller Caesar Frederick, who
Kood
1. Commencement of Bridge,
2. Rains of old Bridge.
8. Temple of Vitoba.
verted into a D.B. There is a sc
road from Kamalapur to Hampi, which
winds round the rocky hills between
which the old city was built. The site
is watei'ed by a cnannel from the river.
Hampi was founded on the fall of
the Baflala dynasty, about 1336 a.d.,
by two brothers, Bukka and Harihara,
wio had been driven out of Warangal,
1 No one interested in the History of Vijay-
Anagar should foil to consult Mr. Sewell's book
on ttie subject, A Forgotten Empire, 1900.
VlJAYANAGAR, HaUPI, AND AnAOUNOI.
4. Temple of Veerpaksh.
5. Temple on high pile of rocks.
6. King's Sleeping Palace.
7. Statne of Ganesh.
8. Temple of Krishna.
saw the city at the zenith of its pros-
perity, describes it as being 24 m. round,
enclosing several hills. The ordinary
dwellings were mean buildings with
earthen walls, but the three palaces and
the pagodas were all built of fine marble.
The first remarkable building is the
Eing'B or Ladies' Bath, forming a po^
tion of the king's palace. It is a rect-
angular building, about J m. from the
D.B., with a hauz, or reservoir, in the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ftOtlTB 26. EXCURSION TO VIJAtANAGAll ANt> fiAMPl
355
centre 50 ft. square and 6 ft. deep, in
which fountains played ; but there is no
water now, and this structure has been
a good deal injured. At the entrance
are remains of the granite aqueduct
which was carried from near the throne
to the bath. The corridor of the bath,
supported by twenty pillars, has an
arched ceiling, richly carved with
flowers. On either side is a projecting
gallery ornamented with carving. N.W.
of this is a granite aqueduct. The
stones forming the trough measure
about 11 ft. X 6 ft., the supports are 5
ft. 8 in. high. About 1000 yds. N. W.
of the aqueduct is a cluster of remains,
including the Elephant Stahles^ the
ZefMiTuiy the Treasury, rather mean
buildings of Tipu Sultan's time, and
1 structure which the guide calls the
Throne. It is of granite, and consists
of a succession of matforms 31 ft. high,
the outer walls of which are carved in
relief with representations of elephants,
iancing-girls, hunting-scenes from the
Ramayuna, and camels, well executed.
A-hout 100 yds. to the N. is a Temple.
rhe pillars are handsomely carved in
relief with figures. The quadrangle,
inside measurwnent, is 110 ft. from N.
to S., and 200 ft. from E. to W. Tlie
temple has a vestibule carried on
twelve pillars. The adytum is sup-
ported by black pillars most elabor-
itely carved. On the plinth of the
left gateway is a very long inscription
in Old Eanarese. Tne stones of which
this temple is built average 7 ft. 7 in.
long and 2 ft. 6 in. deep.
The second day may be spent in cross-
ing the ruins from S. to N., that is from
the D. B. to Anagundi, a distance of 4 m.
On the right is a hill crowned with
I large temple, to visit wliich is the
labour of a day. Farther to the W. is
Hrhat the guiae calls the oldest temple
in Vijayanagar. Little except two
jcpuras (ornamented gateways) is left.
Kound the door of the first gopura is a
irery long inscription in Old Aanarese.
[n the second there isaNagri inscription
)n the right, and a Kanarese on the left,
rhe bases of the pillars are carved to
■epresent a man riding on a yali, which
s rearing up. The extensive ruins
Uround show that the temple to which
these gopuras belonged was of great
size. Near here on a granite mound
stand tliree Jain Ba^tis : observe their
turned pillars of polished black stone,
ornamented with graceful beaded fes-^
toons and bells, after the style of the
beautiful bastis of Srivanah Belgula,
and Hullabid (Rte. 27). Beyond this,
in the same direction, is what is called
the Kasbin Bazaar, with a stone arcade
on either side. It is 122 ft. broad from
E. to W., and 1127 ft. long from S. to
N., and must have been a most magni-
ficent street or market-place. About J
m. from this is a solidly-built Temple
of Rama, on the bank of a branch of
the Tungabhadra river, 100 yds. broad,
and very deep. In the adytum of this
temple are grotesque modem images of
Rama, Laksnman, Sita, and Hanuman.
The road now turns to the right along
the river. A vast old Malh, or monas-
tery, is now passed on the right, which
was tenanted till about 1840. About
100 yds. beyond this are the remains of
a stone briage * over the Tungabhadra,
built without mortar, clamp, or tenon.
The structure is a simple jam and cram
of rough granite blocks, notched at the
edges oy a process of quarrying still in
practice. A line of small hollows is
worked in a smooth surface of rock ; a
little straw is burnt over the hollows ;
water is poured in, and the rock splits
along the line of hollows to the depth
of several inches. A singular stnic^re
of granite is worthy of notice, which
the guide says was used for weighing
goods, but more probably to weigh
great personages against gold. It is
made of three granite blocks, 1;wo up-
rights and a transverse piece. The
uprights are 20 ft. 10 in. high, and the
thwart piece 14 ft. 7 in. long.
Some 200 yards beyond this are
three granite temples, which are
called the Wali, the Sv^rvca, and the
Tara— the last-named being the wife of
Wall. It is, however, in reality very
doubtful to which deity the temples
were dedicated. The very numerous
carvings of monkeys in one of the three
especially, and more or less in the
1 Tliere are remarkable examples of these
bridges at Seringapatam, and near the Falls
of the Canvery.
Digitized
by Google
35^
kOtJTK 26. OAiJAO JlTiJCTlOl^ to BezwAda
tnik
others, make it probable that they
were dedicated to Wali, his brother,
and his wife. Mr. Fergusson, at p.
874, ascribes to Vitoha^ a local mani-
festation of Vishnu, the one which the
local people refer to Wali, erected 1529-
1542 A.D., but never finished.^ The
shrine of this great temple was never
filled ; it was never used as a place of
worship, nor was it ever formally con-
secrated. The legend is that in the
plenitude of their power the Rajas of
Vijayanagar determined to brin^ the
holy image of Krishna which is at
Pandarpur to Vijayanagar, and built
this temple to exceed in beauty every-
thing before erected in the Deccan to
receive it ; but whether it was, as the
Brahmans inform visitors, that the god
would not move ; or that, having come
to look at the new temple, said it was
too good for him ; or because attention
was diverted by serious troubles with
the Mohammedans, the removal was
never accomplished. The three temples
stand in an enclosure which has four
low gopuras ; they are good examples
of the Dravidian style. There is a
stone rutj or car, close to the temple on
the right, as you enter the enclosure,
and two stone pavilions for lodging
travellers. The stone car which stands
a few paces from the temple just
described is 26 ft. 4 in. high, sadly
disfigured in 1803 by an ill-judced
"restoration" in chunam. The dia-
meter of the wheels is 4 ft. 3 in.
Whether the car was ever moved is
doubtful. The wheels can be moved,
and the^ockets in which the axle works
are worn and chafed as if by movement.
The second temple, which is on the
left of the entrance into the enclosure,
is much the largest, and perhaps the
finest. The ceiling was formed of slabs
of granite 35 ft. long, but all the slabs
have been thrown down except one in
the centre. Two slabs stand against
the wall, 2 ft. 6 in. wide, and 2 ft.
thick. There are fourteen columns,
which supported the roof. Most of
them are carved into representations
1 See also the Indian Antiquary, vol. ii. p.
178, which gives an extract from the Bellary
District Manual, by J. Kelsall, M.C.S., which
says : " The finest temples of all are about 1
ax. lower down the river."
of horsemen mounted on yalis. One
represents the Narsing Avatar. In
some cases the yalis are supported by
elephants. The pavement consists of
huge granite slabs. One is 12 fL 7 in.
long, and 7 ft. 7 in. broad, and the
others are about that size. Within
is a court 100 ft. long from E. to W.,
and 62 ft. broad from N. to S. This
temple is thought by some to hare
been sacred to Vishnu, and the repre-
sentation of the Narsing Avatar makes
this probable. On the S. aide are
numerous Eanarese inscriptions. S. of
the temple is a large dharmsala with
sixty-two pillars, on which are curious
reliefs of lemale monkeys and dwarfs,
so this may be the Tara temple. On
the right of the entrance is a platform
with thirty-nine shorter pillars. Th^
were carv^ with most curious represen-
tations of monkeys, their heads crowned
with two small figures of gods. The
third temple is some 20 yds. N. of the
rtU. It is probably sacred to Wali and
Sugriva.
From this the traveller may go 1| m.
to the E. to the bank of the TuDga-
bhadra opposite Anagundi. There is
a large tree which affords some shelter
from the sun while waiting for the
ferry-boats, which are circulM" ba^ets
covered with bullock hides and 10 ft
in diameter, the Indian form of coracle.
They will each take twenty persons, or
a palki with twelve bearers. The boats
are safe but inconvenient. There are
some inches of water at the bottom of
the basket, and passengers sit on the
edge or rim. The bed of the river and
its sides are very rocky. As soon as
you land on the N". side you are in the
Nizam's dominions. 30 yds. firom the
landing-place is a small temple to Gfanesh,
sheltered by a tree, and 10 yds. fartha
on is the Gate of Anagundi^ which has
been a fort built of granite. The paiaa
of the Rajah of Anagundi, who is tbo
Rajah of Vijayanagar, is one-third of I
mile from the gate.
Returning to the S. side of the riva^
some hours may be devoted to a vaS
to the Pagoda on the high hill to ^
E. of the Kasbin Bazaar, bat the tvoM
are not interesting. The ascent I
excessively steep, and the Pagodi|
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 26. TORANAGULLU — BELLART
357
which is sacred to Markand, is un-
important, but the view over the ruins
will repay the visitor for his trouble.
A day must be given to ihe W. and
N.W. portion of the ruins of Hampi,
and here a pony may be used. About
2 m. along the road running W. is an
ancient temple of Shwa^ attested by a
figure of Nandi and carvings of cobras.
Beyond this to the W. is a gigantic
image of the NardTig Avatar^ carved
out of a single block of granite. The
figure is that of a colossal lion-headed
man with enormous projecting circular
eyes and a huge mouth. A spirited
carving of the Shesh Nag forms the
canopy of the idol, which is seated,
and has its legs and arms broken.
From the top of the Shesh Nag to the
floor of the pedestal on which the idol
sits is 22 ft. 6 in. This idol is in an
enclosure of ponderous granite blocks.
The monolithic uprights at the door
are 18 ft. 8 in. high out of the ground.
Just outside the gate is an upright
stone with a Eanarese inscription on
both sides. A few yards from this
enclosure is a small temple containing
a hage Ldngam and Yoni. This is no
doubt the largest representative of
these objects of worship existing.
Near is a vast temple to EriBhna.
It is enclosed by a granite wall. The
breadth of the chief court is 200 ft.
from N. to S., and the length 320 ft.
from E. to W. At the gopura which
forms the entrance is a stone 8 ft.
bigh, with a Eiuiarese inscription on
both sides. There is also on the columns
of the gopura an inscription in Nagri
and Kanarese. About 60 yds. from
this temple off the road is a temple
with a huge Ganesh 10 ft. high ; and
a few yds. farther another, vastly
solid, built of granite, dedicated to
Ganesh, in which the idol is 18 ft.
high. The visitor will remark the
size of the enormous granite slabs
which form the roof. After passing
this temple, the precincts of what is
now called Hampi are entered, and
monkeys of the Langwr kind, but not
large, here show themselves in con-
siderable numbers. The visitor should
WW descend for 70 yds. a granite
paven^e^t put into many small steps,
and pass on the left a square building
which may have been a mcUh. He
will then come under the shade of
some gigantic trees and arrive at the
portal of the great temple of Hampi,
which is sacred to Shiva. The gopura
at the N. entrance is truly gigantic,
and taken in all its dimensions is
perhaps the largest in India. It is im-
possible to ascend beyond the eleventh
story, but from the basement of that
to the ground the height is 133 ft, 5 in.,
and above it there is solid masonry for
30 or 40 ft. After that comes the Shtkr^
which is now broken but must have
been about 30 ft. high, so that when
it was intact the total height must
have been over 200 ft. The gopura
is 85 ft. from E. to W., and is im-
mensely solid. The length of the first
q'ladrangle from E. to W. is 208 ft.,
and its breadth from N. to S. 134 ft.
The second quadranffle is larger, and
has arcades all round built of granite.
The authorities of the temple will not
allow a European, excepting officials,
to go farther than a few steps beyond
the second gopura, under which is the
entrance to this second quadrangle, nor
will they permit any closer exammation
of the building. Ketuming S.E. 2 m.
the visitor will reach the Zeruma, The
outer wall is about 20 ft. high, and
built entirely of granite. The buildings
within have for the most part been
thrown down. At the comers of the en-
closure in which this building is there
have been towers, and two remain. At
one comer of the enclosure is a building
which was probably a pavilion for the
ladies. It has been covered with fine
white cement. Close by it is a door,
beyond which are many ruins and a
temple to Hanuman, with ave^spirited
relief of the Monkey-god. E. of the
zenana are the Elepharvt Stables. S. of
the zenana, at the distance of 150 yds.,
is a monolithic and subterraneous
temple or house, with three chambers.]
94 m. Bellary sta. (R.), D.B. A
municipal town and large military
station, capital of district of same name.
Pop. 63,000. A spur from the Sandur
range runs along the S. side of the
cantonment of Bellary, and extends
d by Google
358
ROUTE 26. GADAQ JUNCTION TO BEZWADA
India
K to Badihal, 8 m. distant, where it
abruptly terminates. A high point
in this range is opposite to the Fort
of Bellary, within 4 m. of it, and is
called the Copper MofmUain, the height
bein^^ 1600 ft. above the plain, and 2800
ft. above the sea. Excavations are still
to be seen, said to be l^e remains of
mines worked by order of Hyder 'Ali,
but abandoned in consequence of the
expense exceeding the profit. Besides
copper, haematitic iron ore is found in
large quantities, some of which possesses
magnetic properties.
It is an easy climb up to the Fort,
built on a bare granite rock of semi-
elliptical form, rising abruptly from
the plain to the height of 450 ft,
and about 2 m. in circumference. The
rock is defended by two distinct lines
of works, constituting the lower and
upper forts, both built of granite. In
the upper one, the summit of which
is flat and of considerable extent, stands
the citadel, which is reputed to be of
great antiquity, and might be rendered
almost impregnable. It affords, how-
ever, no accommodation for troops,
and is consequently never occupied
except by a small guard. The cells for
the military prisoners are built within
it. Several tanks or cisterns have been
hollowed out in the rook to hold rain-
water: the system of their construc-
tion is worthy of notice. The lower
fort, which is of more recent construc-
tion, consists of low bastions connected
together by curtains. Its shape is quad-
rangular ; it has a dry ditch and covered
way in front, and surrounds the base of
the rock from its S. W. to its N.E. angle.
The lower fort was built by Tipu in
1792. The upper fort has six bastions,
and deep cavities always full of fresh
water. There is a granite piUar 36 ft.
high, with figures of Hanuman and
other deities close to an ancient, squat
pagoda sacred to Shiva.
The present fortifications were built
hj a staff of French engineers, tradi-
tion adding that after the new citadel
had been completed Hyder 'Ali hanged
the French en^neers at the gate, as
he found that his fort was commanded
by another rock. The place came into
possession of the British in 1800.
The Arsenal is at the foot of the
Fort Rock in the S.W. angle, A tank
lies to the S. of the Fort, fed by a
stream. The N.I. regiment lines are
at the extreme S.W. of the cantonment
The barracks of the English Infantry
are IJ m. to the N. E. Here are Trinity
Church and the Roman Cathohc
Church. There is also a handsome
church, built at the expense of Mr.
Abraham, of fine white stone brought
from Shahabad.
124 m. Quntakal juno. sta. See
p. 334.
167 m. Kumool Boad sta.
\ m. distant is Dhone. D.B. if.
[From here Kumool is distant 33
m. N. by road. This is the Cajwul
of Orme. Pop. 20,000. A civil sta-
tion. The town stands at the junc-
tion of the Hindri and Tungabhadra
rivers. The old fort was difflnantled
in 1862, but four bastions and three
gates still stand. Troops were stationed
in it until 1871, and it still contains
the palace of the Nawabs. There is
a fine mausoleum of Abdul Wahab,
the first Nawab, and several mosques.
17 m. u^ stream at SunkestUa are the
head works of the canal ; the journey
can be done in a canal boat]
214 m. Nandyal sta. Called from
Nandiy the bull of Shiva. There are
several Shivite temples here. Before
reaching it the line passes through the
Gerramalai Hills by many picturesque
curves.
278 m. Ciimbum sta. (R.)
383 m. GKintar sta. (R.)
The Rly. crosses the Eistna river by
a huge bridge just below the irrigation
dam before entering
400 m. Beswada (R.) D.B. This
is also the terminus of the Nizam's
State Rly. from Wadi, Hyderabad, and
Warangal. A line has recently been
opened from Bezwada to Barang (for
Cuttack) and Puri (Jagannath). See
Routes 21 and 25. An important
trading-place on the most frequented
crossing of the Klstna river. A fort
was erected here in 1760, but has since
been dismantled. There are rock-eut
^ddhist temples and Hindu pagodaa
In making excavations for canals many
remains were exposed, which show tb»t
d by Google
ROUTE 26. EXCURSIONS FROM BEZWADA
359
the place was, in the Buddhist period,
a considerable religious centre.
It is a toym with 12,000 inhabitants,
and is situated on the left bank of the
Kistna, 45 m. from its mouth. It is
shut in on the W. by a granite ridge
600 ft. high, running N. and S., and
ending in a soarp at the river. At
right angles to this ridge, and i m.
from the stream, is a similar ridge
sheltering the town on the N.
Close to the E. end of N. ridge is
a sharp -pointed detached mass of
gneiss, on which are Buddhistic caves
and cells. On the S. side of the river,
opposite to Bezwada, is a hill similar
to the W. ridge of which it is a con-
tinuation. It IS 450 ft. high, and from
Bezwada seems a perfect cone. On the
S. side of the river, 1 m. to the W.,
is the Undavilli Cave-Temple. The
rock-cuttings on the hill to the W. of
Bezwada are made perpendicularly
down the rock, which forms the side of
a prism, and they leave a platform
half-way down, on which buildings
were placed by the Buddhists. One
such cutting gives a cave 77 ft. deep
X 30 ft. broad, with a perpendicular
rocky face, and about 45 ft. high.
At a little distance to the S. of the
town there is an enormous rock. It
was there that the Master of the Shas-
tras attained the rank of Buddha. An
inscription on a pillar in the Temple of
Amararshnaraswami, in Bezwada, is
dated 1283 s.s. = 1361 A.D. On the
crest of the hill is a bungalow built
when the Dam at Bezwada was being
made. A statue of Buddha in black
granite was removed from the highest
point of this hill to the library at
Bezwada. Another Bungalow, be-
longing to the Church Missionaries,
has been erected on the platform, from
which steps ascend to the top of the
hill. On the ridge to the W. of the
town the remains cluster thickly. The
perpendicular cliff at the back has been
roughly carved with representations of
Hindu deities. Passing it, you come
to a modem temple to Kanaka Par-
gamma. There is also a figure with
fllegible writing in characters of the
6th or 7th century, and ap inscription
Vfi old Telugu,
In the town of Bezwada are old
shrines with inscriptions from the 7th
century downwards. The caves of
Bezwada are hollowed out of the £.
side of the great hill at the foot of
which Bezwada stands. At the foot of
the hill, at the N.£. comer of the town,
is a small rock-temple with a figure of
Yenayakudu, or Ganesh. Then come
several cells and a good-sized man-
dapam, with pillars of the solid rock.
In the temple of Malleshwar Swami,
which is in the town, are some figures
and pillars much older than the temple
itself. Besides the colossal figure of
Buddha in black granite, which came
from the hill to the E. of Bezwada,
and is now in the Library, there is
another colossal figure of Buddha in the
enclosure of the rest-house for native
travellers at Gndivada. The features
are very fine, the hair woolly. A seven-
headed serpent forms a canopy for the
statue's head. The Brahmans call it
Muneshwaraswami, and claim Sakya
Muni as a Brahmanical deity.
The Kistna Bridge is 1200 yards
long outside abutments, with a depth
of foundations 80 feet below low water,
and cost 4,247,850 rupees.
Exounioiui from Bezwada.
(1) In order to reach UndaTiUi
village, the traveller must cross the
Kistna from Bezwada and go 1^ m. up
the course of the river above and W .
of Sitanagaram. There is a rock-temple
of two stories close to the village, and
also a large one of four stories, the
lower sto^ being buried in debris.
This is a Buddhistic temple converted
to the worship of Anantaswami, or
Vishnu. In the third story is a hall
supported by solid rock pillars repre-
senting the rape of Sita by Ravana, and
the search for her and ner rescue by
Hanuman, and the defeat of Ravana by
Bama. At the end of the hill is a
gigantic figure of the Narsing Avatara
recumbent on the Shesh Nag, and with
two large and several smaller figures at
his feet. There are some remains of
painting on them. An inscription near
the temple records a CTant by a Reddi
chief ftot earlier thai^ the ^3th century.
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360
ROUTB 27. HUBLI TO HULLABID AND BANGALORE
India
(2) 17 m. W. of Bezwada by road is
Amarayaii, on the rijght or S. bank of
the Kistna river. It ia a place of mucb
interest to antiquarians as an ancient
centre of the Buddhist religion, and
the site of a great Tope,^ of which, bow-
ever, scarcely anything remains in situ.
What there is lies to the S. of the
town, just beyond the outer huts.
Dr. Burgess calls if a deeply interest-
ing monument of antiquity unequalled
for the delicacy of its detail b^ any of
the remains of Indian Architectural
Art" Becent injudicious excavations
have created sach confusion in the
debris that the chances of forming an
idea of the original size and structural
arrangements of the tope have for ever
been destroyed. Many examples of
the sculpture are to be seen in the
•Briti^h Museuni. Before 1790 the tope
is said to have presented the appear-
ance of a very large low tumulus
crowned b^ a smaller one about 80
yds. in diameter, and 20 ft. high,
which had been covered with brick,
and was locally known as JHpaldinney
or the Hill of Light.
N, and N.W. of Amaravati are the
sites of former diamond-workings, all
on the N. bank of the river.
ROUTE 27
HuBLi Junction to Hullabid and
Bangalore.
Hubli June. sta. (R.) is between Londa
June, and Gadag junc, and 127 m. by
rail E. of Marmogoa harbour on the
W. coast.
81 m. Harihar sta. (R.) on the rt.
bank of the Tungabhadra. In 1868 a
very fine bridge was constructed over
the river. An inscription on copper
has been found here of the 7th cen-
tury, and there are several of the 12th.
The temple was erected in 1223. In
1268 additions were made by Soma,
the founder of Somnathpur in the
Mysore district. In 1277 Saluva
1 See Ferguason'fl Hitt. of Ind. ArcK, pp.
71,7 2, 98, 99, 102, and r y J. Burgess, LL.D.
Amaravati and Jaggayapeta StuuaSj London
Tikkama built a temple to Mahadeva.
The Kings of Yijayangar bestowed
many benefactions on these temples
down to the 16th centu^. After the
fall of yyayanagar, the Tarikere chiefs
seized the place and built the fort.
178 m. Banawar sta.
[The renewed ruins of Hullabid lie
20 m. S.W. from this point by road ;
past JamgaZ (12 m.) At 10 hl
beyond in the same direction is Blur.
We take these places on the return
journey to ths railway station.
Belnr (or Baillur), on the rt. bank
of the Yagache, pop. about 8000. In
the Puranas and old inscriptions it is
called Velapura, and is styled the S.
Benares. Here is the famous temple
of Chenna Eesava, erected and endowed
by the Hoysala king, Vishnu Yardhana,
on exchanging the Jain faith for that
of Yishnu m tne be^innin^ of the 12tli
century. The carvmg with which it
is decorated rivals in design and
finish that of Hullabid, ana is the
work of the same artist, Jakanachari
The image of Chenna Kesava is said to
have been brought from the Baba
Budan hills, but that of his goddess
was left behind, which obliges him to
pay her a visit there at stated inter-
vals. The Great Temple stands within
a high wall which surrounds a court,
440 ft. X 860 ft. In this court are,
besides the Great Temple, four or five
smaller ones. On the E. front are two
fine gopuras. **It consists," says Mr.
Fergusson, " of a very solid vimanah,
with an anteraJa, or porch ; and in front
of this a porch of the usual star-like form,
measuring 90 ft. across. The arrange-
ments of the pillars have much of that
pleasing subordination and variety of
spacing which is found in those of the
Jains, but we miss here the octagonal
dome, which cives such poetry and
meaning to the arrangements they
adopted. Instead of these we have
only an exaggerated compartment in
the centre, wnich fits nothing, and,
ihoilgh it does give dignity to the
centre, it does it so clumsily as to be
nlmost offensive in an architectural
sense." The windows to the porch
are 28, and all diiferent. Some are
d by Google
KOUTE 27. HULLABID KETARESVARA — HOYSALESHWARA 361
pierced with star-shaped, conventional
patterns, and with foliaged patterns
between. Others are interspersed with
mythological figures, as tne Yaraha
avatar. The base is very richly carved,
and is supported on carved elephants.
Mr. Fergusson says: ''The amount of
labour which each facet of this porch
displays is such as never was bestowed
on any surface of equal extent in any
buildm^ in the world ; and though the
design is not of the highest omer of
art, it is elegant and appropriate, and
never ofifends against good taste. The
sculptures of the base of the vimanah
are as elaborate as those of the porch,
in some places more so ; and the mode
in which the under sides of the cor-
nices have been elaborated and adorned
is such as is only to be found in temples
of this class."
Hullabid, from the Eanarese words,
Aafe, * * old, " bidUf * * ruins, " is a village
10 m,. N.E. of Belur, with 1200 in-
habitants. It marks the site of Dorasa-
mudra, the old capital of the Hoysala
Bsdlala kings. Jt was founded early
in the 12th century, but was rebuilt in
the middle of the 13th by Vira Somesh-
wara, and some inscriptions represent
him to be the founder. Attacked by
leprosy, he withdrew to the neighbour-
ing hill of Pushpagiri (Mountain of
Flowers), where he was instructed to
erect temples to Shiva to obtaia a cure.
The Mohammedan general Kafor took
the city in 1310, and plundered it of
immense wealth. In 1326 another
army of Mohammedans carried off what
remained, and destroyed the city. The
Rwa then removed to Tonnur.
Tliere are 2 most remarkable temples
remaining. (1) The Ketaresvara, the
smaller of the two, but a miracle of art.
Unfortunately, a tree took root in the
vimanah, or tower, over the sanctuary,
and dislodged the stones. Many of
the fibres, thrust out of their places
in this maimer, have been removed
to the Museum at Bangalore. It
is now fast goiug to ruin. It is
star-shaped, with sixteen points, and
had a porch, now ruined and covered
with vegetation. It has a conical
roof, and from base to top "is covered
with sculptures of the very best
Indian art, and these so arranged as
not materially to interfere .wiSi the
outlines of the building." It was,^
when intact, the finest specimen of
Indian art in existence.
(2) The HoysaleBhwara, "Lord of the
Hoysalas," much larger t^an the Eetar-
esvara. It stands on a terrace, 5 ft.
6 in. in height, paved with large slabs.
The temple itself is 160 ft. from N. to S.
by 122 ft. from E. to W., and beyond
its walls thpre is a clear margm of
platform aU round of about 20 ft* The
height from the terrace to the cornice
is 25 ft.. It is a double temple, one
half being sacred to Shiva, and the
other to his wife. Each half has a
pavilion in front containing the Baswa^
or Nandif a bull. , The larger of the
two is 16 ft. long by 7 ft. broad and
10 ft. high, the animal being repre-
sented lying down.
Some of the pillars in the inner part
of the temple are of black hornblende,
and have a dazzling polish, which, as
Buchanan tells us (voL iii. p. 392),
"reflects objects double, which by the
natives ia looked upon as miraculous."
Alluding to the many friezes that sur-
round the temple, Fergusson says
"Some of these are carved with a
minute elaboration of detail which, can
only be reproduced by photography,
and may probably be considered as one
of the most marvellous exhibitions of
human labour to be foimd even in the
patient East." He adds: "Here the
artistic combination of horizontal with
vertical lines, and the play of outline
and of light and shade, far suinpass
anything in (Gothic art. The effects
are just what the mediaeval architects
were often aiming at, but which they
never attained so perfectly as was done
at Hullabid." In the friezes of sculp-
tured animals which surround the
building, the succession is always the
same, the elephants being the lowest,
next above them the shardalas (or con-
ventional lions), then the horses, then
the oxen, then birds. Fergusson places
Hullabid temple and the Parthenon
as the two extremes of architectural
art, and says : "It would be possible
to arrange all the buildings of the
world between these two extremes, as
Digitized by VjOOQIC
362
ROUTR 27. HUBLT TO HULLABTB AND BANGALORE
India
they tended toward the severe intel-
leotual pnritv of the one, or the playful
exaberant rancy of the other; but
perfeotion, if it existed, would be some-
where near the mean."
Admiration for this vast temple
should not cause neglect of the group
of extremely beautiful Jain Bastis at
the farther end of the village.
Jamgal. — ^The temple here is dedi-
cated to Narsinga, and built entirely
of halapamiy or pot-stone. Buchanan
says : " It is highly ornamented after
the Hindu feishion, and on the outside
every part of its walls is covered with
small images in full relievo."
188 m. Anikere sta. (B.) Gold-
mining has been started here with but
poor results as yet. 32 m. S. from
this place is the town of Chanroya-
patTia.^ The fort was built subse-
quently, and Hyder *Ali added the wet
moat and traverse gateways.
[At 8 m. S.E. of this place is Shra-
vana Belagola. Bhadra Bahu, the
Jain sage, died here in the 4th century
B.C., and was a Sh/nuta kevala, or
immediate "hearer" of the six dis-
ciples of Mahavira, founder of the Jain
sect. The chief attendant of thisworthy
is said to have been the &mous Em-
peror Chandragupta, or Sandracottus,
who abdicated to live the life of a recluse
with him. These events are confirmed
by inscriptions on the rock of very
great antiquity. The grandson of
Chandragupta is said to nave visited
the spot with an army, and from his
camp arose the town of Shravana
Belgola or Belgola of the Shravans=
Jains. Near the town, which has
1300 inhabitants, are two rooky hills —
Indra-betta and Qhandragiri, On
Indra-betta is a colossal statue of
Gomata Raya, 70 ft. 3 in. It is
nude, and faces the N. The face has
the calm look usual in Buddhist
statues. The hair is curled in short
spiral ringlets all over the head.
The ears are long and large, the
shoulders very broad, the arms hang-
ing straight down with the thumbs
outwards, the waist small. From the
I ^e temple was erected In 160Q,
knees downwards the legs are unnatur-
ally short; the feet rest on a lotus.
Ant-hills are represented rising on
either side, with a creeping plant spring-
ing from them which twines round
the thighs and arms, ending in a
tendril with bunches of fhrit. These
are intended to qnnbolise the deep
abstraction of the sage, so absorbed in
meditation that the ants build and the
plants climb aroimd him unnotioed.
Though certainly 1000 years old, and
probably 2000, the stone looks as fresh
as if newly quarried. Within tiie
encloGRire are 72 small statues, of
like appearance, in compartments.
An inscription on the front of the
colossus states that it was erected by
Chamunda Raya, who is said to have
lived 60 b.c. The place abounds with
inscriptions, the most interesting of
which are cut in the face of the rock at
Indra-betta in ancient characters 1 ft
long. On Chandragiri there are 15
Jain temples.]
248 m. Tmnkar sta. (K) chief town
and headquarters of a district of the
same name. A civil and military sta-
tion, prettily situated at the S.W.
base of the Devaraydurga group of
hills. Pop. 10,000. The Deputy 6Mn-
missioner 8 Court-house is a curious-
looking circular building, three stories
high. There is a Wesleyan Misaon
here, with a chapel and several schools.
Glass bangles are extensively made
here ; and there are 120 forges where
arms and cutlery are produced. The
masons are specially noted for the stone
idols they carve ; and musical instru-
ments made here are much prized. In
the Tumkur district there are 8763
cotton looms and 34,801 cotton-spinning
wheels.
288 m. Bangalore junc. sta. (see
p. 376).
d by Google
EOUTE 28. BOMBAY TO COLOMBO
363
ROUTE 28
Bombay to Tuticorin and
Colombo by Coi!bTiNa-STEAM£B
The British India Steam Navigation
Company has a weekly service to all the
ports mentioned below, but during the
S. W. monsoon some cannot be call^ at.
From Bombay 126 m. Ratna^iri/sO^
D.B. This place is the principal civil
station in the S. Eonkan. A small de-
tachment of troops is usually^stationed
at it. Here Thebaw, the last king of
Upper Burma, and his queen, have been
detained since the last Burmese war.
The town is large and open, facing the sea.
There are two small bays formed by a
rock on which the fort is built. There
is neitheor shelter nor good anchorage, as
the harbour is completely exposed, and
the bottom is hard sand withrock. IVith
any breeze from the W. there are heavy
breakers on the bar at the entrance of the
river, and boats crossit only at <he top of
high water. The landing-place for boats
is on the S. of the fort, near a small tank,
close to high -water mark. The Ga/n-
tonment lies on the N. of the town.
Ratnagiri derives its name from the
demon JSo^ioaz^, who was killed by an
incarnation of Shiva called Na;th, or
Jotiba, who is worshipped at a famous
temple near Eolhapur. To the tourist,
however, the principal thing of interest
here is the Tarli, or *' sardine " fishing,
which is pretty to 'witness. Fleets of
canoes may be seen putting out for these
fish in January and February. Three
men are required in each canoe, two to
paddle and one to cast the net. The
attitudes of the men engaged in casting
the nets are beautifiu, and display
their fine athletic figures to advantage.
They stand in the bows of the canoes,
leaning slightly forward, with the nets
gathered up, and with eyes glancing
keenly around in search of the shoaL
The fish, which is most delicious, is
caught in such numbers that a single
net-caster will fill his canoe in the
course of the morning, as many as fifty
fish being taken at a single cast ; and
quantities of the fish are used to manure
the rice -fields. At these times the
* Places at which steamers 40 not caU regn-
deep-sea fishing is entirely neclected.
The fishing is within a short distance
of the shore, just outside the breakers,
and can be carried on only when the
water is sufficiently clear to admit of
the fish being readily seen.
Kabadevi Bay, 7 m. N. of Ratnagiri,
is a safe anchorage during the S.W.
monsoon. There is a good road to
Ratnagiii.
227 m. Marmagoa * (for GK>a). See
pp. 301-2.
275 m. Earwar,* D.B. Anchorace
500 yds. from shore. Boats 1 r. each.
This port has been considered the
safest anchorage between Bombay and
Cochin ; but with the opening of the
railway from Marmagoa, and tiie large
expenditure of money on that harbour,
it is attracting all the trade from
Earwar. Here the hills of N. Eanara
oome down to the wator's edge, and
the fcnrest and the sea may be said to
meet. The scenery is very beautiful.
The general appearance of the coast
much resembles that of the Japanese
islands, and the harbour is extremely
like the beautiful little harbour of
Tsnsima. In 1660 Earwar was a
dependency of Bijapur, and was the
site of a prosperous English factory,
which gave occupation to 50,000
weavers in the interior. In 1665 Shivaji,
the founder of the Maratha power,
exacted a contribution of £112 from
the English. In 1673 the military
governor laid siege to the factory. In
1674 the Marathas burned Earwar town,
but did not harm the English. The
factory was withdrawn in 1679, in con-
sequence of exactions, but was
restored on a larger scale in 1682. In
1684 the English were nearly driven
out, the crew of a vessel having stolen
and killed a cow. The factory was
again removed in 1720, and not restored
imtil 1750. The Portuguese took the
northern fort in 1752, and in 1801 Old
Earwar was in ruins. There are several
islands off the coast called the Oyster
Rocks, on the largest of which, Devgarh,
is a lighthouse 210 ft. above the sea,
showing a white fixed light on a white
tower, which is y\a\hle %h i^, ^t a^^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
364
ROUTE 28. BOlfBAT TO COLOMBO
India
Anjidiva Tslandf 5 m. S.K of the
Oyster Rocks, rises steep from the sea.
It is a Portuguese settlement.
[Honawar is 50 m. S. of Earwar.
The bar at the entrance is now so
dangerous that the coasting-steamers
do not call, but they sometimes stop
outside for passengers to land. Ar-
rangement should be made beforehand
with the shipping agents (see also Ex-
cursion No. 10 &om Bombay). This
is the place from which the celebrated
Falls o/Gersoppa can be most conveni-
ently visited.
This port has been a good outlet for
the produce of this part of N. Eanara.
The Gersoppa or Shiravati river flow-
ing towards it, is met by an inlet of the
sea, forming a salt-water lake 7 m. in
lenj^h from 3.K to N.W., and S m.
in its greatest breadth. This lake con-
tains several islands, and abounds with
fish. Honawar is situated on the N.
side of it. It is the chief town of a
subdivision, and contains about 12,000
inhabitants. On account of the pepper
grown in the surrounding countiy, a
small factory containing eighteen per-
sons was established here by the English
at a very early period after their arrival
in India, but after a short time it came
to a melancholy end. About the year
1670 the chief pocured a fine bull-doff
from the captam of an English vessel
which had come there to take in cargo.
This animal, when accompanying the
factors on an excursion, seized a sacred
cow in the neighbourhood of a Hindu
temple, and killed her. Instigated by
the Brahmans, the natives were resolved
to revenge this injury to their preju-
dices, and in a fury of fanaticism mur-
dered every Englishman. Some natives,
more friendly than the rest, caused a
large grave to be dug, and in it the
eighteen victims were interred. The
chief of the factory at Karwar sent a
moniunental stone, on which was en-
graved the story of their wretched fate.
In the time of Hyder there was a con-
siderable trade in pepper and sandal
wood from this plaoie, and that prince
established at it a dock for bmlding
ships of war. In the time of Buchanan
C1900) th§ wfeoks of spme of these
vessels remained in the lake, having
been sunk by the British troops when
they carried the Jort by assault. So
early as 1569 we near of Honawar as a
rich and beautiful city, with a fort,
belonging to the Queen of Grersoppa ;
and the Portuguese at that tune
plundered and burned it, but shortly
after fortified and garrisoned it anew.
It then fell into the hands of the Rajahs
of Bednur, and next passed with their
other possessions to Hyder. In 1783
it was taken by the forces under Gr^ieral
Matthews, but restored next year to
Tipu by the treaty of Mangalore.
The Falls of Ctersoppa. — ^The journey
from Honawar may be best described
by an extract frx>m the jonmsd of an
accomplished writer who visited the
falls in 1888. He says: ''Arrangements
had been made for our passage to the
Gersoppa Falls. We went on the same
night 18 m. in boats up the moonlit
river, grounded on a sandbank, and
were pulled off only to find the rowers
had landed to drink success to our
future progress, to which this indul-
gence by no means conduced. Arrived
at Gersoppa, we slept in the D.B.,
awoke. to the crowing of the jungle
cock, and went on 20 m. by* road to
Kodkani, Here is another D.B.,
whence you look down into a boiling
chaos of waters. The road fit)m Ger-
soppa to Kodkani is one long bower of
evergreen Irees, and at mid -day you
scarcely see the sun. These jun^^es
abound with tigers, bears, bison, and
game of all kinds, large and small."
The hamlet near the Falls is called
Kodkani. There are two D.Bs., the
Eanara and the Mysore, distant from
one another 710 yds., and almost \ m.
from the Falls. The Eanara bun^ow
\b small but comfortable, and beauti-
fully situated. From the window of
the bungalow herds of wild bison may
sometimes be seen. After a short walk
through a beautifril wood, the sound
of rushing waters breaks upon the ear ;
and as One descends the last slope to
the bed of the river above the Falls
fitful gleams of silvery light bursting;
forth from the dark masses of rook
^announce the cataracts. During the
rains ;t woi4d be difficult, perhaps, ^
Digitized by VjOOQIC
VLOVTT& 28. MANGAtORt!
^pi'oaoii 80 as to gain a complete view.
But at other seasons, after crossing
some 50 ft. of tlie rocky bed of the
river, the traveller comes fall on a
tremendous gulf. On three sides de-
scend the sheets of silvery foam with
fitunning roar, and shoot like rockets
down an unbroken fall of near 1000 ft. ,
where, in the gulf below, an unfathom-
able pool receives them. The river
bears several names, but here is called
the Kural. Its bed is here about 600 ft.
across, of laterite mixed with mica and
felspar, worn and riven by the violence
of the stream into innumerable fantas-
tic shapes. In one place there appears
a succession of waves of stone, and in
, another rocks are piled on rocks in
perfect chaos, while some a^ain are
shapen into hollow cylinders, m which
the stream boils and bubbles as in a
caldron.
There are in all four falls, which
have been called the Cfreat Fall, the
Roarer, the Rocket, and the Dame
Blanche. In the first of these the
water m considerable volume leaps
sheer down a height of 829 ft., measured
by line, and falls into a pool 132 ft.
deep. The spectator may look sheer
down into this abyss. Viewed from
below and at some distance, this fall
contrasts with magical effect with the
next fall, the Boarer, Here a still
larger body of water rushes with less
abruptness, foaming down a tortuous
channel into a cavern or cup, which
turns it into the bed below. The name
given to the next fall, the Rocket, is very
appropriate. It continually shoots out
in jets of foam, which burst like fire-
rockets into showers of glittering drops.
The Dame Blanche is exquisitely beauti-
ful, but, from above, seems quite gentle
as compared with the other three. TTie
guides conduct the traveller to three
points to view the falls from above,
and it is difficult to say which surpasses
the other. The descent is both steep
and circuitous. It is said that tigers
have been seen here. To make the
descent after crossing the bed of the
river, a wood is passed, and some steps
are reached, cut in the rock by a Rajah
half a century «^o.
The Queen of Gersoppa, called by the
Portuguese the lUinha da PimefUo, or
Pepper Queen, was a great dietary in
the I7th century. Her subjects were
chiefly Jains, by whom the nearest
village to the falls is at present almost
entirely inhabited. Among the ruins
of the ci-hr are two ordinary Jain
temples. Through the rank and luxuri-
ant vegetation you can plainly make
out the streets and even tne houses.
407 m. Mangalore, the ca|)ital of
S. Kanara, in the Madras Presidency.
The anchorage is 2 m. from the shore.
Boat hire, If r. each boat. Pop. 32, 000.
Mangalore is separated from the sea by a
backwater formed by the junction of two
streams. In the rains these rivers, which
flow round two sides of a peninsula on
which the town and cantonment of Man-
galorestand, bringdown a largequantity
of water, and they are then navigable for
boats of some burthen to a consider-
able distance inland. In the dry
season there is but little current in
either, except that caused by the in-
fluence of the tide, which flows to about
9 or 10 m. from their mouth. The
banks of these rivers are high and
steep, and are, where the soil permits,
planted with cocoa-nut trees, or laid
out in gardens and rice-fields. At the
back of th6 present landing-place the
rt bazaar commences, and stretches
on the edge of the backwater
about i m. The general apjpearance of
Mangalore from the sea is picturesque.
The nouses are detached, particularly
those towards the N., on separate
hills, whence an extensive view is to be
had, while the thick woods add much
to the beauty of the place. In ancient
times Mangalore was a place of very
great commerce. Ibn Bisktuta, in the
middle of the 14th century, speaks of
4000 Mohammedan merchants as re-
sident there. Forbes speaks of it, in
1772, as the principal seaport in the
dominions of Hyder 'Ali, and well
situated for commerce. Moreover,
both Hyder's and Tipu's ships of war
were built at Mangalore, of the fine
teak produced on the slopes of the
ghats. But in the last forty years con-
siderable changes have taken place in
the harbour, which, commercially,
Digitized by VjOOQIC
SdC(
llOUTB 28. BOMBAt TO OOtOM^O
tniia
have much injured it These changes
in the harbour appear to have origin-
ated, in the first place, from an opening
having been cut by the natives through
a narrow part of the back sand to the
N. of the present outlet, to permit the
escape of tne freshes in the river, which
had caused alarm in consequence of an
unusual rise. The sea entered the cut,
and has formed an extensive and per-
manent opening. Mangalore was most
gallantly defended by Col. Campbell
of the 42d from May 6th 1782 to
January 30th 1783, with a garrison of
1850 men, of whom 412 were English
soldiers, against Tipu's whole army
(see Wilks, vol. ii. pp. 466-86).
Mangalore may be called a miniature
Bombay, from tne variety of nationali-
ties to be met — Europeans, Indo-Portu-
guese. East Indians, Parsis, Moguls,
Arabs, Sidis, Konkanis, Mapimhs,
Kanarese, and Tamulians. The ver-
nacular of the place, however, is Tuluva,
a dialect of Kanarese.
The Qernuxn Mission at Mangalore is
worthy of a visit. Various industries
and trades are taught — printing, book-
binding, carpentry, tile manufacture,
etc. There are two colleges, affiliated
to the Madras Uni versity, — the Govern -
ment College and the JesuU College of
St. Aloysius.
A recent traveller says : " We saw
an exhibition of the products of this
district. The description of Marco Polo
will answer equally at the present day.
He says : * There is in this kingdom a
great quantity of pepper, and ginger,
and cinnamon, ana of nuts of Inaia.
They also manufacture very delicate
and beautiful buckrams. They also
bring hither cloths of silk and gold,
also gold and silver, cloves and spike-
nard, and other fine spices for which
there is a demand here.* "
There is an obelisk in the Burial-
ground to the memory of Brigadier-
General Camac, who died here aged
eighty -four, in 1806. He was second
in command to Olive at the battle of
Plassey.
484 m. Cannannore. Anchorage 2
m. from shore. Boat hire 14 ans. each
passenger -boat. It has 26, 000 inhabit-
ants, and is a municipality and mili-
tary station. D.B. good. The canton-
ment is on a jutting portion of land,
which forms the N. W. side of the bay.
Near the end of this is a promontory,
on which stands the fort Duilt by the
Portuguese. This, since its acquisition
by the English, has been improved and
strengthened. The difife are from 30
ft. to 60 ft. high here, with piles of
rocky boulders at their feet. The
bungalows of the officers are most of
them built on the edge of these cUfi^
and enjoy a cooling sea-breeze. Farther
inland, and in the centre of the canton-
ment, are the Church, magazine, and
English burial-ground, contiguous to
one another. The Portuguese Church,
once the Portuguese feuitory, is close to
the sea. The dimate of Cannannore is
mild, equable, and remarkably healthy.
The town is surrounded by small hills
and narrow valleys. Clumps of cocoa-
nut trees form one of the characteristic
features of the place. The Portuguese
had a fort here as early as 1505.
They were expelled by the Dutch,
who subsequently sold the place to
a Mapilah family. The territory
consists only of the town and the
country for about 2 m. roimd, for
which an annual rent of 14,000 rs.
is paid ; but the sovereignty of the
Laccadive Islands also belongs to the
Rajah of Cannannore. In 1768 'AH
Rajah, the then ruling chief, readily
submitted to Hyder 'Ali, and joined
him on his inva(ting Malabar. In the
war with Tipu, in 1783, it was occu-
pied by the English ; but on the
conclusion of peace next year it was
restored to the Mapilah chief. It
soon, however, fell into ih.e hands of
Tipu, from whom it was wrested by
General Abercromby.
497 m. TelUchorry. Anchorage IJ
m. from shore. Boat hire 14 ans. per
boat. D.B. good. Pop. about 26,000.
The native town lies low, yet the situa-
tion is picturesque, being backed by
wooded hills, interspersed wiiJh valleys
and watered by a fine river. It is
considered very healthy ; Forbes calls
it the Montpellier of India ; but deli-
d by Google
itOUTE 28. OALICU*
367
cste ^uropeand suffer from the damp-
ness of the climate. There is a reef of
rooks which forms a natural break-
-water. Within there is sufficient
depth of water for a ship of 600 tons
to ride at anchor. As the wind and
current prevail very much from the
Jl,W, during what is called the S. W.
inonsoon, the water is not so smooth
upon the beach immediately opposite
this reef as it is a little to the S. of it.
In 1781 H.M. ship Superb of seventy-
four guns was lost here. The Fort,
'which Forbes speaks of as *' large and
TTcll garrisoned," is built on a rising
ground close to the sea, and is about
40 ft. above its level. The whole of
the N.W. side of the citadel is occupied
by a lofty building, the upper part of
which is now the District Judge's
Court and offices, while the lower part
forms the jail.
The Cardamoms of JFynaad, which
are mostly exported from Tellicherry,
are reckoned the best in the world.
The seed ripens in Sept. Excellent
sandal-wood is also exported. The
English factory at Tellicherry, which
was established chiefly for the pur-
chase of pe})per and cardamoms, was
first opened in 1683, under orders from
the Presidencw^ of Surat. In 1708 the
East India Company obtained from
the Cherikal Rajah a grant of the Fort.
In 1782 Hyder 'Aii attacked the
plaoe, but was compelled by the
vigorous sally of the garrison under
M^or Abin^n to raise the siege.
The coastmg- steamers do not touch
at Mah^ (pop. 8000), as it is only five
miles from Tellicherry. Mdh^, derived
from Mdhif " a fish, " a dependent terri-
tory of 2 sq. m., belongs to the French, —
their only possession on the W. coast.
Mah^ is finely situated on high
ground overlooking the river, the en-
trance of which IS closed by rocks.
Only small craft can pass the bar in
safety, and that only m fair weather ;
but the river is navigable for boats to
a considerable distance inland. On a
high hill some way off is seen the Ger-
man Mission House of the Basel Mis-
sionaries at Ohombala. From this hill
there is a beautiful view of the wooded
mountains of Wynaad, Th# French
settlement at Mah^ dates from 1722,
but it was taken by the English under
Major Hector Munro in 1761. The
Peace of Paris, in 1763, gave it back to
the French, but it was retaken by the
English in 1779, and in 1793 the British
establishment at Tellicherry moved to
Mahe ; but the place being restored to
the French in 1815, the English officials
returned to Tellicherry. Mah^ pos-
sesses all the institutions of a repubhc —
manhood suf&age, vote by ballot, muni-
cipal and local councils, representation
at the ConseU-O^n&raly which sits at
Pondicherry, and in the chambers in
France by a senator and a deputy,
who in practice, however, are always
residents in France. The Adminis-
trateur is appointed from home. He
represents the central, and the Maire
the local Ctovemment.
536 m. Calient sta. ^ The terminuF
of the S.W. branch of the Madras
Railway. Pop. 1881, 57,000; 1891,
66,000. Good D.B., also two hotels.
Anchorage 2 m. from shore. Boats 2)
rs. each.
Buchanan (vol. ii. p. 474) says :
'*The proper name of this place is
Colicodtc When Cheruman Perumal
had divided Malabar among his nobles,
and had no principality remaining to
bestow on the ancestor of the Tamuri^
he gave that chief his sword, with all
the territory in which a cock crowing
at a small temple here could be heard.
This formed the original dominions of
the Tamuri, and was called Colicudu,
' or the cock-crowing." The native town
is but little above the level of the sea.
There is a long bazaar with numerous
small cross streets leading from it To
the S. stretching to the right, is the
Mapilah quarter, where are many
mosques. At West Hill there are
barracks for a small detachment of
British troops kept there to overawe
the turbulent Mapilahs (see below).
On the N.W. is the Portuguese quarter,
with a R.C. Church and a large tank ;
also the Collector's Cutcherry. The
jail is also in the Portuguese quarter.
To the N. of the jail is the old burial-
ground, which is close to the pier.
Here is interred Henry Valentine
Conolly, collector and magistrate of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
368
ItOtTTE 28. fiOMBAT TO COLOMBO
tnitA
Malabar, who was txmrdered on the 1 1th
September 1855. There was a dispute
anumg the Mapilah (Moplas) respectiDg
some land, and some of these fonatics
resolved to sacrifice the man wht> had
decided affainst them. A band of these
assassins burst in upon him and stabbed
him to death. They then went off to
Mallapuram, the heieulquarters of this
turbulent sect. An express was sent
off to the trooi« at Cannannore, and
they were in Calicut next day. They
then proceeded to Mallapuram, where
the Sepoys were repulsed by the
Mapihihs, and it was necessary to
bring down European soldiers. The
resistance of the rebels was then
speedily overcome. Mr. H. V. Conolly
was brother of Arthur Conolly who
perished at Bukhara, The oldest in-
scription that can now be read is to
Richard Harrison, who died on the
14th April 1717. Facing the sea are
the houses of the European gentry and
the custom house, ana also the club.
There is a great appearance of neatness
and comfort in the houses even of the
very poor about this locality. The
cantonment and the collector's resi-
dence are 2 m. N. of the town, on a
hiU.
At Calicut, on the 11th of May
1498, arrived the adventurous Vasco
da Gama, ten months and two days
after his departure &om Lisbon. It
then contained many noble buildings,
especially a Brahman temple said to
have been not inferior to the greatest
monastery in PortugaL The native
Rajah, the Tamurin, was called Zamor-
in by European writers. This prince
once ruled over an extensive territory,
but his successors are now stipendiaries
of the English Qovemment. In 1509
the Maredid of Portugal, Don Fer-
nando Coutinho, made an attack on
Calicut with 3000 men, but was him-
self slain and his forces repulsed with
great loss. In 1510 Albuquerque
mnded, burnt the town, and plundered
the palace, but was eventually put to
fl^ht, and was obliged to sail away
with great loss. In 1513 the Rajah
concluded a peace with the Portuguese,
and permitted them to build a fortified
factory. In 1616 an English factoiy
{was established at Calicut. In 1696
Captain Kidd the pirate ravaged the
port. In 1766 Hyder 'Ali invaded
the country, and &e Rajah, finding
that his offers of submission would he
in vain, barricaded himself in his
palace, and setting fire to it, perished
m the flames. Hyder was soon caUed
off to the war m Aroot, and the
territory of the Rajah of Calicut re-
volted, but was re-conquered in 1778
by Mysore. In 1782 the victors were
expelled by the English, and in 1789
Tipu again overran the country, and
laid it waste with fire and sword.
Many women were hanged with thdr
infants round their necks ; others were
trampled under the feet of elephants.
The cocoa-nut and sandal trees were
cut down, and the plantations of
pepper were torn up hj the roots. The
town was almost entirely demolished,
and the materials carried to NeUort,
6 m. to the S.E., to build a fort and
town called Farrukhoibady *' Fortunate
CSty." The next year, however, Tipu's
general was totally defeated and tabken
prisoner with 900 of his men by the
British, who captured the so-called
"Fortunate City"; and in 1792 the
whole territory was ceded to the
English Government. Since that time
the coimtry has gradually recovered
itself. It IS said that two pillars of
the old palace in which Da Grama was
received still remain, as well as a portico
and some traces of a terrace, and
houses for Brahmans. It is said the
Portuguese leader knelt down on his
way to some Hindu idols, taking them
for distorted images of Catholic saints.
"Perhaps they may be devils," said
one of the sailors. ' ' Ko matter, " said
another, "I kneel before them and
worship the true God." The noble
avenue which leads to the ruins of the
old palace leads also to the new» which
is a low tasteless bmlding. The Frendi
have still a lodge at Csdicut, in which
is one solitarv watchman. Cotton
cloth, originally imported from this
town, derives from it its name of calico.
Bvypvai near the mouth of the Bey-
pur river, 6 m. S. of Calicut, was
formerly the terminus of the Madias
BaUway on the west coast, and paa*
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 28. NARAKAX — COCHIN
369
lengers had to cross a wide estuair b^
)oat and then travel by road to Call-
mi ; but in 1890 the line was diverted
lome miles N. of Beypur, and extended
4} Calioiit, and Beypur abandoned as a
ailway station, llie Portnguese estab-
ished a factory (Kalyan) here, bnt it
ailed. Tipu selected it as the site of
he capital of Malabar, but hardly a
restige of its short-lived importance
las survived. In 1797 sawmills, in
L805 a canvas ffiotory, in 1848 iron-
works, and still later, ship -building
vorks wore started at Bcypm*, bnt all
rom one cause or another navo failed.
Iron oro and a sort of lignite both
ixist in the immediate vicinitv. The
beak sprown on the ghats to the E. is
boated down to Beypur for exportation.
A. few miles from tne town lies the site
of Ferokh ("Tipu's City"), and 6 m. E.
is Cfhataparamba ("Field of Death"),
remarkable for its ancient stone circles
and monuments (see Trcms, LiTk Soc.
Bombay, vol. iii. p. 824), resembling
the croinleohs of Salem and Ooimbatore,
and called by the natives kudei-ktUlu,
or "umbrella stones."
627 m. Narakal. Anchorage S m.
from the shore. Boat hire IJ r. each
boat. The handbook of the British
India Steam Navigation Company says :
"This port, which is 6 m. N. of Cochin,
is not affected by the S.W. monsoon,
and is therefore a regular port of call
during that season, when passengers
who land there can proceed by back-
water to stations on the Madras Rail-
way." The place owes its advantages
to a bank which stretches about 2^ m.
seaward, and is 4 m. long. Within
this vessels can run in the worst of the
S.W. monsoon when all other ports on
the coast are closed.
687 m. Cocibia(KzuihibandcMr).:i^ D.B.
fair. Anchorage 1^ m. from the shore.
Boat hire IJ r. per boat two persons.
Pop. 16,000. Weekly steamer to
Colombo. It belongs to the English,
though it gives name to a small native
principality extending over the adjacent
territoiT, and was formerly the capital
of the Baja. The Resident of Travan-
core itf also Resident of Cochin, and
[India]
there is an Anglican bishop for both
places.
The town is situate at the N. extrem-
ity of a spit of land about 12 m. long,
and 1 m. to IJ m. wide. It is almost
insulated by inlets of sea and estuaries
of streams flowing from the W. ghats.
Indeed, the backwater is of such extent
as to be of paramount importance to
the place, and to supply in a great
degree the place of a harbour. This
backwater extends S. nearly to Eayan
Kulam, and K. about 40 m. to Chaitwa.
E. it has several branches, and W. it
communicates with the sea by three
estuaries, at Chaitwa, Cranganore, and
Cochin. It is very shallow in many
places, more particularly in the K. part
of the Chaitwa branch, but between
the inlets at Cranganore and Cochin,
and Cochin and Alapalli, it is at all times
navigable, both for passage and cargo
boats. It shoals, however, from Alapalli
to the bar of Ivika near Kayan Kulam.
During the rains every part is navig-
able, flat-bottomed boats or canoes being
employed. The backwater is affected
by the tides, which rise about 2 ft., and
flow at the rate of 2} m. an hour.
Cochin is the only^ port S. of Bombay
in which large ships can be built. In
1820-21 three frigates were built here
for the Royal Navy. Smaller vessels
for the Indian Navy have likewise been
built, and some merchant ships.
In 1600 the Portuguese aaventurer
Cabral, after having cannonaded Cali-
cut, landed at Cochin and met with a
friendly reception from the Raja, a
reluctant vassal of the Zamorin.
Cabral returned to Portugal with a
cargo of pepper, and was followed by
Inan da Nova Castelho. In 1502
Yasco da Gkuna on his second voyage
came to Cochin, and established a
factory. In 1503 Albuquerque, the
Portuguese admiral, arrived just in
time to succour the Cochin Raja, who
was besieged by the Zamorin in the
island of Vypin. He built the Cochin
fort, called "Mannel Eolati," the first
European fort in India, just five years
after Da Gama had arrived on the
Malabar coast. Albuquerque returned
to Portugal, leaving Cochin guarded by
only a few hundred men under Duarte
Digitized by VjOOQ 2 B
370
BOUTE :
BOMBAY TO COLOMBO
Indw
FlAcheoo, when the Zuaodn with a large
host invaded the country bv land and
sea. Pacheoo with his brave band of 400
men firmljr resisted all the attacks of
the Zamorin, and at last forced him to
retreat to Calicut. In 1505 Francisco
Almeyda, the first Portuguese viceroy of
India, came to Ck>chin with a large
fleet, and was in 1510 succeeded by
Albuquerque. On Christmas Day 1524
Da Gama died here, and was buried,
according to Correa, whose narrative is
the most trustworthy, in the principal
chapel of the Franciscan monastery,
now used as the English church. Euis
body was afterwards (1588) removed to
Portugal. In 1530 St. Fnmcis Xavier,
the apostle of the Indies, preached in
these parts and made many converts.
In 1557 the church of Santa Cruz was
consecrated as the cathedral of a bishop.
In 1577 the Society of Jesus published
at Cochin the first book printed in
India. In 1585 Cochin appears to
have been visited by the English
traveller Ralph Fitch, with his band
of adventurers. In 1616 the English,
under Keeling, en|piged to assist the
Zamorin in attacking Cochin, on an
understanding that an English factory
was to be established t^re. These
relations were, however, broken off, and
the factory was built some years later
with the consent of the Portuguese.
In 1668 the town and fort were cap-
tured from the Portuguese by the
Dutch, uid the English retired to
Ponani. The Dutch ffreatly improved
the place and its traae, building sub-
stantial houses after the European
fashion, and erecting quays, etc. In
1776 the State of Cocmn was subiusated
by Hyder. In 1792 Tipu ceded the
sovereignty to the British. In 1796
it was taken by the British from the
Dutch, and in 1806, or, according to
another account, in 1814, the fartmca-
tions were, by command of Government,
blown up with gunpowder. The explo-
sion threw down or shattered all the
best houses, and most of the Dutch
families who could aflford it left.
Cochin is remarkable as the resi-
dence of the hUick and the white JewSt
who inhabit the suburbs of Ealvati
and Mottancheri, which extend about J
m. along the backwater to the S.E<
of the town. In Mottancheri there U
a large but not v^handsome Kota/ramj
or puace, of the Ki^ and blose to itia
the synagpgne of the white Jews, or
Jews of Jerusalem, who are said U
have arrived in India at a much man
recent date than the black Jews, whose
residence dates from time immem<aial
The white Jews inhabit the upper put
of Jews' Town, i^e black Jews the lover
part There are also a great number
of black Jews in the interior, their
principal towns being Iritnr, Paror,
Chenotta, and Maleb. Th^e is cTeiy
reason for believing that the black Jevs
were established at Cran^ranore in the
dd or 4th century a.d. ^nbiey possees
a copper grant from the Brahman
Prince of l£ilabar, conferring the sud
place upon them, and dated 888 A.D.,
or, acocnxlin^ to Hamilton, 490. People
here are suoiect to cutaneons diaeaaes^
and especiallv elephantiasis^ which it
sometimes called the Cochin lee.
There is an interesting sect of Chm-
tians in Cochin state and elaewlMre
on the Malabar coast, especially at
Eottayam— the Nasarani. Tliey ire
often termed Nestoiiana, though tliej
themselves do not accept the naae.
They ascribe their convernon to the
preachinff of St. Thomas, and until the
arrival oi the Portuguese they were i
imited church, holdmg a sim]^ foith.
About 860 they were joined by i
colony of Syrian Christians, who are
said to have landed at Malabar ; and in
the 9th and 10th centuries more eame
from Bagdad, Nineveh, and Jerusakin.
As early as the 9th centoi^ th^ were
high in favour with the Raja of Iravan- 1
core. Eventually they became inde-'
pendent and elected a sovereign o^j
their own; and though subaequently I
they had to acknowledge the supremacy
of the Cochin Baja» they still preserved
many of their i^ivileges.
The Portuguese, under Oardin
Ximenes and tneir 6oa Yioeroys, ttu
to bring them into the fold of Bom
and to extirpate the Jacobite hoesj
which naturally took firm root i
a community recruited from ti
neighbourhood of Persia and Totkii
Arabia. The Dutch put an end t
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 29. MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND MTSORE
371
;Ms persecution, and supported the
5yiian Christians, who in 1663 sent
;o Antioch for a bishop. He, on his
imval, was put to death by the Portu-
gese. When the rule of the Portuguese
»ased they were left with a divided
Church. From that date to the be-
?iiming of the present century the
!)harch, by '* schisms rent asunder/'
vas administered partly by native
)ishops and partly by oishops from
$yria ; and to this day there are two
nshops amongst them, one, Mar Diony-
lius, who heads the non- reformers,
ind another, Mar Athanasius, of the
larty of reform. The Syrian Jacobites ^
lumber some 300,000 in all, and hold
nost tenaciously to diflferences of
loctrine, such aa divided the early
Christian Church, and such as nowadays
ixcite a merely academical interest,
^ides these there are the Syrian
^man Catholics, descendants of those
brcibly converted by the Portuguese.
They are a peaceful and well-ordered
)eople, on good terms with the Govern-
nent, be it British or native, on the
:oast, and they retain, in their internal
iconomy, many interesting forms and
ceremonies relating to the time when
:hey were governed by a king, who
vas recognised as siich by the native
(ings of the coast
769 m. Koladiel, D.B. A very
iDcient port, again rising into some
mportance, in the Travancore state in
he extreme south of India. It is prob-
ably the Kolias of Strabo. Some
lenturies ago it was occupied by the
Danes.
875 m. Tuticozin sta.,^ D.B., ter-
nioosofS. Indian Rly., 443 m. from
Madras by rail. A municipal and
'oinmereial town, exporting large
[oantities of cotton, coffee, corn, cattle,
tc ; pop. 27,000. The anchorage is
im. from the shore. Passengers are
onv^ed to and from the steamers of
he Brit Ind. S. N. Co. in their
team-launch. Fare 2 rs. each. There
1 For the oldest Christian inscriptions of
he Nestorians, at St. Thom6 and Kottayam
[) the same characters as those found on the
iuiious Si-gnan-fu in N. China—see Dr.
Jeorge Smith's Conversion of India, chap. ii.
is a daily steamer hence to Colombo,
in connection with the South Indian
Railway from Madras.
The place was famous for its pearl-
fishery, which extended from Cape
Comorin to the Pamban Channel.
Csesar Frederick, who visited India
1563-81, tells us that the fishing begins
in March or April, and lasts fifty days.
It is never in the same spot during two
consecutive years ; but when the
season approaches, good divers are
sent to examine where the greatest
number of ovsters are to be found, and
when they have settled that point, a
village is built of stone opposite to it,
should there have been no village there
previously, and an influx of people and
of the necessaries of life follows. The
fishers and divers are mostly native
Christians. Owing to he deepening of
the Pamban Channel, these banks no
longer produce the pearl-oysters in
such remunerative quantities, but
chank shells are still found and ex-
ported to Bengal. The pearl fisheries
are carried on at intervals of a few
years, under Government supervision.
The S.P.O. have a Misson-house
here, and a Training School.
Small schooners sail from Tuticorin
to Paumben opposite the famous island
of Rameswaram (see p. 400) ; but the
more usual route is from Negapatam
(see p. 400).
ROUTE 29
Madras to Bangalore and Mysore
Madras to, 42 m., Arkonam June. sta.
(See p. 335.)
65 m. Arcot sta. mentioned by
Ptolemy. The town is 5 m. S. of the
railway station and across the Palar
river Banipet, the civil station and
residence of the Europeans, is 3. m.
from the railway before the river is
crossed. The place has ceased to be a
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 29. MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND MTSORB
India
military station. There is a large
sugar factory and distillery.
On approaohing the town a small
pagoda IS reached and portions of the
town-wall, which was a massive stmc-
ture of red brick. It was blown np
with gunpowder, but the foundations
remain, and huge fragments are seen
solid as rocks. Continuing the same
course along the bank of the Palar,
after i m. the Delhi Gate is reached,
which is the only one that remains
so far unii^'ured that it is possible
to form an idea of what the fortifica-
tion was. Above the gate is Clive's
room. Much of the moat is now used
for ^wing rice. Returning to the
Delhi Gate, take a road which leads
S. from it into the heart of the old
town. After J m. the Taluk ChUcherry
is reached, a pretty building erected in
1874. After passing this building, turn
to the £. and cross a very broad moat,
which surrounded the citadel, and isnow
dry, with trees growing in it. Here are
two small tanks, which once had foun-
tains in the centre. The water was raised
into them by wheels turned by ele-
phants. The water for the tanks was
Drought from a large reservoir near the
Nawab's palace. Near this is the MaJc"
harahf or Tomb of 8a*adatu*Udh Khan,
In the same enclosure is the Jtmma
Mu^id, The tomb has a stone inserted
over the door with an inscription, which
says that the Nawab died 1733 A.D.
W. of the Jumma Musjid is theruined
Palace of the Nwwdbs of the Camatic^
on a mount overlooking the large lake
called the Nawab's Tank. The walls
of the durbar-room are stUl standing.
Ssposite is the Kali Mu^id, or Bla^
bsoue, and near the palace is the tomb
of a Mohammedan ascetic, Shah Ehizr
Langotbund, with a rather handsome
dome. To the W. is the mosque of
Fakir Muhammad. Near it is a tomb,
apparently imfinished, in which was
laid the body of the Nizam Nasir Jang,
murdered by the Nawab of Kadapa on
5th December 1760. It was shortly
afterwards removed to Hyderabad.
Just across the road is the tomb of
Tiim Auliya, or Saint Tipu, of brick,
whitewashed. In the W. wall is a
stone with an inscription, which says
that Sa'adatu*llah Ehan erected this
tomb for Tipu, who was a man of God.
Whether lipu Sultan, got his name
from this saint, or, as Wflks says, from
a word signifying "tiger," is doubtful
History.
Arcot derives its name from An-
kadu, "six forests," where six Bidiis,
or holy men, dwelt. Adondai, who
conquered Tondamandalam in HOC
A.D., drove out the aborigines from
these forests, and built various temples
there. These went to ruin, and the
place again became desolate, till Hindus
came from Penukonda and built a fort
there. Zu'l&kar Ehan, Anrangzib's
general, took Gingi in 1698 A.D., aod
made Daud Elhan Governor of Arcot,
underwhich district Gingi was included.
This officer colonised the county with
Mohammedans. Until 1712 the Moham-
medan governors resided at Gingi, when
Sa'adal^'Uah Ehan, who first took the
title of Nawab of the Cumatic, made
Arcot his capital Arcot, however, is
chiefly known to us for the glorious
capture and defence of it by Gapt. dive,
who here laid the founaation of his
creat celebrity. When the Fr^ich and
Ghanda Sahib besieged Trichinopoly
in 1751, Glive led an expedition agunst
Arcot in order to divest a part of the
enemy from the siesn, Glive had with
him only 200 English, with 8 ofiicers,
6 of whom had never before been in
action ; he had also 800 Sepoys and 3
field-pieces. With this small force he
left Madras on the 26th of August, and
arrived at Gonleveram on uie 29tlL
Here he learned that the garrison of
Arcot amounted to 1100 men. On the
31st he arrived within 10 m. of Arcot,
and marched on through a tremendous
storm of thunder, lightning, and rain.
The enemies' spies r^rted the aon^
froid with whlcn the Knglish advanced
under such circumstances, and this
made such an impression on the garri-
son that they abandoned the fort. On
the 4th of September GHve marched
out against the garrison, who had takes
up a position at Timeri, a fort 6 m. S.
of Arcot. The enemy retreated to the
hills, and the Englisn returned to H
fort, but marchod out again a secoi
Digitized by VjOOQ
the
tLomn 29. ARcoir
373
time on the 6tli, and drove the enemy
firom a tank near Timeri, where they
had ensconced themselves. After ten
days tlie enemy, who by reinforcements
had grown to 3000 men, encamped
within 3 m. of Arcot, where they were
attacked at 2 A.M. on the 14th of Sep-
tember by Clive, and utterly routed.
Two 18-pomiders despatched from
Madias had now nearly reached Glive,
who sent out all the men he had, ex-
cept 30 Europeans and 50 BepoySf to
brin^ tbem in. During liiis emergency
the enemy attacked Arcot, but were
signally repulsed. Ghanda Sahib now
sent 4000 men from Trichinojwly
under bis son Raja Sahib, who entered
the town of Arcot on the 23d of Sep-
tember. On the 24th Olive sallied from
the citadel, and fought a desperate
battle with Raja SahiVs force. On the
25th Mnrtaza 'Ali brought 2000 men
from Vellore to join Raja Sahib. Olive's
situation now appeared desperate :
"Tlie fort was more than 1 m. in cir-
cumference " (Orme, book iii. p. 198) ;
"the walk were in many places ruin-
ous ; the rampart too narrow to admit
the firing of artillery ; the parapet low
and slightly built ; several of the towers
were decayed, and none of them capable
of receivmg more than one piece of
cannon ; the ditch was in most places
fordable, in others dry, and in some
choked up ; there was oetween the foot
of the walls and the ditch a space about
10 ft. broad, intended for a fausse-braye,
but this had no parapet at the scarp of
the ditch. The fort had two gates,
one to the N.W., the other to the E.,
both of which were large piles of
masonry projecting 40 ft. beyond the
walls, and the passage from these gates
was, instead of a (nawbridge, a large
causeway crossing the ditch. The gar-
rison had from nieir arrival employed
themselves indefieiticably to remove and
repair as many of these inconveniences
and defects as the smallness of their
numbers could attend to. They had
endeavoured to bum down several of
the nearest houses, but without success ;
for these having no woodwork in their
construction, excepting the beams
which supported the ceiling, resisted
the blaze. Of these houses the enemy's
infantry took possession, and began to
fire upon the ramparts, and wounded
several of the garrison before ni^t,
when they retired. At midnight En-
sign Glass was sent with 10 men and
some barrels of gunpowder to blow up
two of the houses which most annoyed
the fort. This party were let down
by ropes over "ttie walls, and entering
the houses without being discovered,
made the explosion, but with so little
skill that it did not produce the in-
tended effect ; at their return the rope
by which Ensign Glass was getting into
the fort broke, and he was by the fall
rendered incapable of further duty ; so
that, at the beginning of the siege, the
garrison was deprived of the services
of 4 of the 8 officers who set out on the
expedition, and the troops fit for duty
were diminished to 120 Europeans and
200 Sepoys ; these were besieged by
160 Europeans, 2000 Sepoys, 3000
cavalry, and 600 peons."
Macaulay says: "During fifty days
the siege went on. During fifty days
the young captain maintained the
defence with a firmness, vigilance, and
ability which would have done honoui-
to the oldest marshal in Europe. The
breach, however, increased day by day.
The garrison began to feel the pressure
of hunger. Under such circumstances
any troops, so scantily provided with
officers, might have been expected to
show signs of insubordination ; and
the danger was peculiarly great in a
force composed of men differmg widely
from each other in extraction, colour,
language, manners, and religion. But
the devotion of the little band to its
chief surpassed anything that is related
of the Tenth Legion of Osesar, or the
Old Guard of Napoleon. The Sepoys
came to Olive, not to complain of their
scanty fare, but to propose that all the
grain should be given to the Europeans,
who required more nourishment than
the natives of Asia. The thin gruel,
they said, which was strained away
from the rice, would suffice for them-
selves. History contains no more
touching instance of military fidelity,
or of the influence of a commanding
mind."
It was now that the gallantry of
Digitized by VjOOQIC
374
Rou!rfi 29. Madras to BANOAtoftE and inrsotiiB
Indda
Olive's defence so impressed the Ma-
ratha leader, Morari Rao, who was at
the head of 6000 men, that he declared
that he had till then never believed
that Englishmen could fight, but see-
ing their spirit he was determined to
help them, and he put his troops in
motion. This alarmed Baja Sahib,
and he determined to storm Arcot
before succour could arrive. He chose
the great day of the Muharram, and
Olive, who was exhausted with fatigue,
was roused by the shouts of the enemy
rushing to the attack, and was instantly
at his post. The straggle lasted about
an hour ; 400 of the assailants were
killed, while the garrison lost four
Europeans killed, and two Sepoys
wounded. At 2 A.M. next morning
the enemy abandoned their camp, into
which the garrison marchedand brought
off four guns, four mortars, and a large
quantity of ammunition. Thus ended
on the 15th November this famous siege,
and Olive, being reinforced by Oaptain
Kilpatrick, marched out on the 19th
and took the fort of Timeri, and a few
days after defeated a force of 300
French, 2000 horse, and 2600 Sepoys
with four guns, and took Ami with
R%ja Sahib s treasure-chest, and much
in 1758 M. Lally got possession
of the Fort of Arcot by bribing the
Indian governor ; but in 1760 it was
recaptured from the French by Oolonel
Ooote. In 1780 Hyder 'Ali, after his
victory at Conjeveram over Oolonel
BaiUie, made himself master of Arcot,
and strengthened the fortifications, but
Tipu abandoned it in 1783, and ordered
the wall on two sides to be thrown
down; subsequently (1803) it passed
into the hands of the British along
with the other possessions of the
Nawabs of the Oamatic.
80 m. Katpadi sta. (R.)
[Vellore is 4 m. S. of the rly. sta.,
on the opposite bank of the Palar river,
which is spanned by a fine brick bridge.
Covered vehicles drawn by ponies
and li^t bullock-carts always meet
the tram. But there is now a line of
rail from Villupuram to Nellore, with
a station at Vellore, and another at
Katpadi.
The Fort of VeUore dates from the
end of the 11th century. It was made
over to Karsing Baja, of Y^ayanagar,
about 1600 A.D. It is surrounded by
a deep ditch 200 ft. broad. The first
thing to be noticed is a well about 30
yds. N.W. of the Assistant-Collector's
nouse. Into this well the bodies of
the Europeans killed in the mutiny of
1806 were thrown. Up to 1874 there
were cannon placed round this well.
The principal object of interest at
Vellore is the Fugodct, which is one c(
the most remarkable in India, and has
been restored by (Government. It is
sacred to Jalagandar Ishwara, '*the
god that dwells in water," i,e, Shiva.
There are two dwarpals at the entrance
of the gopura, of blue granite, which
when s&nok emit a singular^ metalHc
sound. The figures are seated. The
door is very handsome, of wood studded
with bosses of iron like lotns flowras.
The entrance is nndw the gopora, and
its sides are lined with pilasters orna-
mented with circular medallions oen-
taining groups of figures. This
fopura has seven stories, and is 100 It
igh. It is quite easy to ascend to the
very top. After passing through the
gopura, you have on your left at the
distance of a few yards a stone pavilioii
called the KaZyan MamdapaTtiy exqui-
sitely carved. On either side of the
steps by which you ascend into the
mandapam are pillars, which are mono-
liths, carved torepresentvarioosanimak
and monsters (including the Simh, or
Lion of the South, rearing up, with i
round stone in its mouth), one above
another in a wav which shows jiro-
digious labour ana great skilL In the
portico or ante -chamber is a wonder-
fully carved ceiling, with a centre-piece
representingafrui^ round which parrots
are clustered in a circle, hanging by
their olaws with their heads dowii
towards the fruit ; also several ridilr
carved pillars, all entirely different
from eaon other. Opposite this man-
dapam, in the £. comer, is a well of
pure water. A corridor runs round the
enclosure, supported by ninety-ooe
pillars, all with carvingson them. There
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ttOUTlS ^9. VBLLOBt!
376
is n mandapam at eaok oomer of the
enclosure, but that abore described is
by tai the most ornamental. In the
eopura itself is a dab with seventeen
Unes in the old Granthi Tamil, which
has not yet been deciphered. Opposite
the gopura is a long low buildmg of
granite, the blodcs being adjusted
with the greatest care. In this,
no donbt, formerly was the adytum,
but it is now so dark thai nothing
can be seen without torches. Fereus-
son says, "the great cornice Here
with its^doubie flexures and its little
trellis -work of supports is not only
very elegant in form, but one of
those marvels of patient industry such
as are to be found hardly anywhere
else. . . . The traditions of the place
assign the erection of the Yellore porch
to uie year 1350, and though this is
perhaps being too precise, it is not far
from the truth."
Around St. John's CJhurch are the
mahals which have been the residence
of the family and descendants of Tiju
since 1802. There is a fine tank, m
dee^ning which the relief funds in the
famine of 1877 were expended to the ex-
tent of 60, 000 rs. The Old Cemetery is a
little to the S.E. of the Fort. In the
centre of the enclosure is a magnificent
pipul tree, and in the right-hand comer
orthe cemetery is a wafied-in enclosure
with a low sarco|)hagns inscribed to
the memory of Lieutis. Popham and
Eley and 80 soldiers of the 69th Begt.,
who fell during the mutiny of 1806.
At the time of the mutiny, besides
the 69th Eegt., there were 6 companies
of the 1st battalion of the Ist Kegt.
N.I., and the 2d battalion of the 23d
N.I. in the Fort, and the Sepoys mus-
tered 1600 to the 370 English soldiers.
The native oflScers led the Sepoys to the
attack, and maintained a murderous
discharge of musketry on the European
barracks. Detachments were also told
off to shoot the oflRcers as thev came
out of their houses. Thus Col. Fan
court of the 69th who commanded the
whole garrison, was killed, as was
Iii6nt.-(^1. M'Eeera, commanding the
28d N.I. 18 officers were killed, and
several English conductors of ordnance
at their houses. In the barracks
8^2 private were killed, and 91 wounded.
A few offices, who had snooessfidly
defended themselves in a house, forced
their way to the barracks, and put
themselves at the head of the survivmg
soldiers. The followers of the state
prisoners h<nsted Tipu's flag. The
men of the 69th, however, fought their
way to the flag-staff and pulled it down ;
they then nu^e their way to the third
giteway, which they opened to C!ol.
Gillespie, when he came up tnhn Arcot
with a squadron of the 19th Dragoons
and a troop of the 7th Native Cavalry.
300 to 400 of the mutineers were killed
and many taken j^risoners, and the
numbers of the regiments were erased
from tiie Army Listo (see Mill, voL vii
pp. 121, 122).
JSiaarat Makam^ the tomb of a
Mohammedan saint, is in a street of
the same name about 250 yds. W. of
the Fort. They expect you to take off
your shoes if you enter the verandah
of the makbarah, or tomb.
The tomhz of Tipa*8 family are j m.
to the W. of the Fort in a well-kept
enclosure. Rt. of the entrance is the
tomb of Padshah Begam, wife of Tipu,
1834 A.D. The second tomb on the
right is that of Aftab Elhan, who was
second instructor to the ladies. Next
comes a handsome tank, with stone
embankment and steps. Next are two
plain tombs of female attendants, and
then a handsome granite pavilion with a
massive roof supported bv four pillars ;
inside is a black marble tomb to Mirsa
Riza, who married one of Tipu*s
daughters. At the end of these is the
largest building of all, a domed mauso-
leum 20 ft. sq. to the memory of
Bakhshi Begam, the widow of Hyder
' Ali, 1806 A. D. Left of this is a mosuue
without any inscription, and beyona it
scores of plain gravestones and other
tombs of members of Tipu's family and
retinue.
In the third volume of Orme, at
E. 603, will be found a picture of three
ill-forts near Yellore, and called by
him Stutarow, Ovzarow, and Murtaz
Agwr, The one nearest to the place,
in £EU3t overlooking it, is what is called
Sayers' Hill, but which the Hindus
call Singal Drug ; it is 900 ft. above
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ste
ROUTE 29. kADllAS TO feANGALORE AND MYSORE!
India
the level of Vellore* The sides ^e
covered with boulders and loose stones,
and the ascent is very fifttiguing, but
may be accomplished in forty -five
minutes. From the bastion there is a
good view over the neighbouring hill,
which also has been fortified. Just
below the hill is the Fort, and two
fine tanks, while 2^ m. off are the
police lines and the Central Jail, which
219 m. BANGALORE City junc. sta. y^
Hence the rly. to Mysore is continued
S.W., whilst the line through Hubli
to Poona runs N.W., and through
Guntakal to Poona, N. The name is
literally, "the town of ben^u," a
kind of bean (pop. 180,000). The area
assigned to Government when the state
of Mysore was restored to the natire
prince is 13^ sq. m. The state was
Banoalobe.
1. Roman Catholic Church.
2. St John's Church.
8. Native Infiintry Lines.
4. St. Andrew's Church.
is noted for its beautiful carpet and
cloth manufactures.]
132 m. Jalarpet junc. sta. (R. ) Here
the rly. to Bangalore leaves the main
S.W. branch and commences the ascent
to the plateau of Mysore.
176 m. Bowringpet sta. [Branch, by
the Kolar Gold Fields State Railway,
to the gold mines, well worth a visit.]
216 ni. Bangalore Canton, sta. s^ (R.)
5. Cleveland Town.
6. Maharaja's Palace.
7. Mysore CJate.
8. Museum.
taken under British administration in
1831, and was restored to native rule in
1 881. In the interval of half a century
it has grown to its present importance.
The GaTUonment (the largest in the
S. of India) and City of Bangalore
stretch from the Maharaja's palace on
the N., 6500 yds., to the S. extremity
of tlie Koramangala Tank on the S.,
and an equal distance from the W. end
of the Petta on the W. , to the Sappers'
Digitized by VjOOQIC
R0t1?B 29. BANQAtOBl!
377
Frsotice-^und on the £. Banealore
proper lies S. of the Lharmambudhi
ana Sampangi Tanks, which lie in the
N.W. and E. comers of the Fetta or
town. Beginning with the canton-
ment, and taking the noticeable things
in order from N.W. to S.E., the first
building is the Maharaja's Palace^
whioh is handsome, but only open to the
public by special permission when the
Mahanga is absent. S.E. of this 860
yds. is the Railway Station, and 800
yds. S. of that agam is MUler^s Tamk,
which oommunicates by a small stream
with the much larger ffaUur Tank,
1800 yds. to the K Between these two
tanks is the CantonrMiU Bazaar, and
N. of it the iileasant suburb of ClweUmd
Town, in which are some neat residences
and Boman GathoHc and Protestant
Clmrehes, The Sappers' quarters are
at the E. comer of the Baatar, and the
Sepays' Lines at the S.W., and a little
to the £. of the latter the Bowring
Giyil Hospital, the London Mission
Chapel, and St Andrew's Kirk, built
in 1864. The Main Quard adjoins
this ohinrdi on the E. ; and a few yds.
farther to the E. are the Infanttr Bar-
raoks, and still further to the IL the
▼illage of HaZswr, and a pleasant drive
round the large tank of the same name,
with the Sappers' Parade-ground to
the £. Directly S. of Halsur are the
Artillery Barracks, and S. again of them
the Oayalry Barracks, the old Ceme-
tery, the Mounted Parade, and the
Artillery Practice-ground.
N.W. of the Artillery Barracks is
Tri/Miy Chwrch, which contains a half-
length statue in white marble, by Mac-
Dowell, R. A., to General Clement Hill,
who served through the Peninsularcam-
paigns under his brother Lord Hill, and
when co^imanding the Mysore Division
died on the 20th of January 1845, while
on a pleasure trip to the Falls of Gersop-
pa. A few hun<ured yards W. of Trinity
Church are the Wesleyan Chapel, the
Public BooTM, and the Qymnasivm,
standing in the General Parade-
ground, which is more than 1 m. long
from £. to W. A little S. of its centre
la the Tele^ph Office, and S.E. of
that again the Bomam, Catholic Cathe-
dral, 100 yds. S. of whioh is the
Museum. Close to the ^. of these are
the D.B. and All Saints* Church,
Near the W. end of the Grand Parade-
ground, and adjoining it on the S., are
the General's House, the Bandstand,
and St, Mark*8 Chwrch, in which ia a
tablet to Lieut. -CoL Sir Walter Scott,
of Abbotsford, and of the 15th King's
Hussars, who died at sea in 1847, a^
46. W. of the G^eral's House, and
close to it, is the Cubbon Park, the
fashionable afternoon resort. In this
is the Musewm, In the vestibule
remark a slab with twelve Persian dis-
tiches, brought from Tipu's Palace in
the Fort ; a figure of a Jain deity with
very superb carving round it, brought
from a temple; also some wonderful
carvings from HuUabid. In the larse
room adjoining there is a valuable cm-
lection of geological specimens. Up-
stairs are stuffea animals, butterflies,
and native ornaments and dresses, and
a most remarkable collection of fishes.
W. of the Museum 450 yds. is a fine
building 525 ft long from N.E. to
S. W., which contains the Public Offices,
The Commissioner's House, or the
Residency as it is called, is about ^
m. N. of the Public Offices, and in
front of it is a good statue of General
Mark Cubbon, uie first Commissioner.
We now come to Bangalore proper,
which has an area of only 2^ sq. m.
out of the 13. The Petta was until
recent times surrounded by a deep
ditch and thom hedge. There is an
excellent market between the Fort and
Mysore Gates. The Brahman quarter
is called Siddi Eatte. The streets are
somewhat narrow and irregular, but
scattered about there are well-built
and imposing mansions belonging to
wealthy inhabitants. The grain-market,
TaragU'peUa,s,ndi<ia^Tx. market, ^ra2^-
petta, afford busy scenes of traffic
The F(yrt is due S. of the Petta. It
is 2400 ft. from N. to S. and 1800 ft.
from E. to W. It could never have
been a stroujg^ place against European
troops. It is of an oval shape, with
two gateways, one the Delhi Gate on
the N. face opposite the Petta, the
other the Mysore on the S. feuie. The
Delhi Gate is handsomely built of out
granite, and when Lord CJomwallis on
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ItOUtE 2d. 1CA.DRAS !t^ BAlfTGAtiOftlB AltD ktSOttt!
lliHa
the 2l8t of March 1791 determined
to storm the place, there were fire
powerM caTaliers ( Wilks, Hist, Sketches
qfihe 8. cf India, voL iii. p. 128),
a fausse-braye, ditch, and covered way,
but in no part was there a perfect
flanking defence. The garrison, how-
ever, consisted of 8000 men under
Bahadur Khan, and there were besides
2000 regular infantiy in the Petta, and
6000 irregular. In addition to all,
Tipu himself, with an army very far
superior in numbers to that of Com-
wallis, was prepared to take advantage
of air7 error on the part of the besiegers.
The Fetta had been previously taken bv
the English on the 7th of March, with
a loss on their part of 181 killed and
wounded. The Mysore ^rrison lost
upwards of 2000 men. The assault
took place at eleven at night, and
until the Eiladar fell a determined
resistance was made. Tipu's camp
that night was at Jigni, 6 m. to the
S.W., and at niffhtful he moved np
within li m. of the Fort, but the
spirit of the assailants overcame aJl
(uffioulties, and the Fort was captured,
after a severe struggle, that same
night
In the centre of the Fort is the
arsenal, and there are some remains of
Tipu's Palace. Some restoration has
been done to the top story. There is
a small temple near the Mysore Gate.
The LcU Bagh, a most beautiful
garden, is said to have been laid out in
the time of Hyder 'AIL There is a
fine collection of tropical and sub-
tropical plants, and a laige collection
of wild animals in cages.
[Nandidnig, a strong hill-fort 4866 ft
above sea-level, is 86 m. N of Bangalore.
It was thought impregnable by Tipu,
being Inaccessible except from the w.,
and there stronrfy fortified. It was
taken, however, oy General Meadows
on the 19th October 1791, with the
loss of only thirty killed and wounded,
chiefly by the tremendous masses of
granite rolled down the rook on the
heads of the assailants. It was as the
•torming-party formed that Meadows
overheard a soldier whisper that there
was a mine. '* To be sure ! " said the
Gmieral, "there is a mine, a mine of
gold ! " The large house on the summit
was a favourite retreat of Sir Mark
Cnbbon in the hot weather. There
are many objects of historicad interest
to be seen : one being Tipu^s Drop, a
rook prmeoting from the fbrtifieatioiis
and ovemanging a precipice of 1000 it]
266 m. Maddvr sta. (R.) was formerly
an important place, but suflfered heaYify
during the wars with Tipu. There an
two large Vishnavite temples here,
sacred to Karasim Swami, and Yaradt
Raja, <<the Man-Lion," and *<tibB
boon -giving King." A fine brick
bridge with seven arches, boilt in
1860, spans the Shimsha, on the liAt
bank of which the town is bnflt The
fort was taken by the Mysore general
in 1617, and Hyder rebuilt it, and
it was dismantlea by Lord Oomwallis
in 1791.
[Expedition to the Falls of the
Cauvery.
Bv road 17 m. S. is Malvalli, D.&,
headquarters of the Taluk of the same
name, and a mnnicipal town. The
Mysore-Ban|raIore ana Maddnr-Sivasi-
mudram roads intersect here. Hyder
gave this town to his son Tipu, and
the rice -fields near the tank are the
site of a £»rden which T^u formed.
On the 27th of March 1799 1^
drew np his army 2 m. to tiie W. of
the fort and village of Malvalli
General Harris advanced with the right
or principal division of his amy n^er
his immediate command, and tlie left
oolnmn under General Wellesle j. The
unevenness of the ffrouiul causing an
interval between the brigades, Tipa
directed a charge of oavaby against
them, "which was prepared wiSi de-
liberate coolness, and executed with
great spirit" Many horsen^n fell on
tile bayonets of the Europeans, bat no
disorder was caused in their ranks.
Col. WeUesley then moved to torn tiM
enemy's li^t, when Tipu's infrmtiy
advanced in front of their guns, and
received tiie fire of the S3d regunentt
and the English artillery, until at 60
yds. frx)m the Europeans they gave way.
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ttOTJTE 2d. FALtS Ot THfe CAUVtiltir
8?9
taiA were immediately charged by Col.
Floyd with the brigade of cavahy,
which drove them off the field with
the OSS ot more than 1000 men, while
the En^ish lost but 69. After the
action Tipu destroyed Malvalli, to
prevent its gvingshelter to the English.
12 m. S. W. of Malvalli is the village
of Somnathpur, famous for the tem^e
of Prasanna Channa Kesava. This is
an elaborately carved building attri-
buted to Jakanachari, the famous
sculptor and architect of the BaUala
kings. Smaller than the temple at
Hullabid, this temple is more pleasing,
as the three pyramidal towers or vim-
anahs over the fenple shrine are com-
pletely finished. The central shrine is
that of Prasanna Channa Kesava, that
on the S. is sacred to Gopala, and that
on the N. to Janardhana. Round the
outer base are carved with much spirit
the princi(>al incidents in the Rama-
yana, the Maha Bharata, and the
Bhagavad 6rita. The end of each
chapter is indicated by a closed door,
of each section by a naif-closed door.
Around lie 74 mutilated statues, which
once stood on the basement. There is
a fine inscription at the entrance, which
declares that the building was completed
in 1270 by Soma, a high officer of
the Ballala State, and a member of
the royal family. The vestibule is in
ruins, and the images are more or less
damaged. There are also the ruins of
a large Shivite temple with inscriptions.
From Malvalli by road 12i m. to
The Falls of the Cauveay at Sivasa-
mudram. The river has in Mysore an
average breadth of from 300 to 400 yds. ,
but from its confluence with the Eabbani
to Sivasamudram it swells into a
much broader stream. The maximum
flood discharge, roughly gauged at
Bannur, is 239,000 cubic ft. per second.
The bottom of the channel is mostly
composed of rocks, which increase the
eddies and foaming of the waters. A
few miles after the stream has passed
the half-buried city of Talkad, it turns
northward and forms an island 8 m.
long and about 2 m. broad, round
which it sweeps in two broad streams,
tiiat on the right or E. passing within
the frontier of the British district of
Coimbatore, while that on the left or
W. separates the territory of Mysore
from Coimbatore. The island is called
in Eanarese, Heggura, but is more
generally known by its Sanscrit name
ShiyaBamudram, ''the sea of Shiva."
The total descent of the river from
its point of separation at the S. point
of ^e island to its reunion at the N.
point is nearly 300 ft. The N., or
more properly speaking the W. branch
of the river is the more considerable of
the two, and forms a smaller island
called Ettikur, on either side of which
a vast stream thunders down. Buchanan
teUs us that this island is believed to
be inhabited by a devU, and adds, " the
only persons who defy this devil, and
the tigers, who are said to be very numer-
ous, are two Mohammedan hermits who
dwell at Gagana Chukki. The Hermit'
age is a hut open all round, placed
opposite to the tomb of Pir Wali."
llie main island of Shivasamudram is
the site of a city which was built in
the beginning of the 16th century
by Ganga Raja, a kinsman of the
lUja of V^'ayanagar. He is said to
have begun building before the pre-
scribed auspicious moment, and conse-
quently his city was doomed to last for
only three generations. His son and
successor Nandi Raja committed some
breach of ceremonial, which he expiated
by leading into the cataract at Gagana
Cnuklu on horseback, with his wife
seated behind him. Tht ruin foretold
fell on his son Gkmga Raja II., one of
whose daughters married the R%ja of
Eilimale, a place 12 m. from Satyagala,
and the other the Raja of Nagarakere,
3 m. E. of Maddur. These ladies
enraged their husbands by contrasting
their mean style of living with the
ma^ificence of their father. The two
Rajas resolved to humble the pride of
their wives by attacking their father's
city, which they besieg^ inefiectually
for twelve years, until his Dalavay, or
commander-in-chief, betrayed him, and
engaged him in agame of chess while the
enemy's soldiers were passing the only
ford. Roused at last to his (Singer, the
Raja slew his women and children, and
then rushing into the battle was i^ain^
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ROUTE 29. ICIDBAS 1?0 BAKGALORE AK1> MTSORfi
India
on whicli his sons-in-law and their
wives plunged into the cataract. Jacat
Deva^Kaja of Chennapatnam, andSnri
Ranga Raja of Talkad, then sacked
the city, and removed its inhabitants.
In 1791 Tipn, on the advance of Lord
Comwallis, swept the adjoining country
of people and nocks, and drove them
into Snivasamudram. After this the
island was deserted, and became over-
grown with dense jungle infested with
wild beasts. The bridges which had
led to the town, formed of huge blocks
of black stone, some placed upright as
pillars, and others laid across in the
manner of Egyptian buildings, were
broken and duapidated. However, in
1825 a generous person named Rama-
swami Mudeliar, who was a confidential
servant of the then Resident of Mysore,
carried a fine double bridge across the
stream, repaired the temples, and built
a D.B. The bridge, or bridges, are
built of hewn stone pillars, connected
by stone slabs, built on the rocky
bed of the river, and though rude are
good specimens of Indian construction.
In the rains the river is a furious
torrent, impassable except by the bridge.
About 1 m. distant from Gagana
Chukki, on the E. bank of the river, is
the cataract formed by the S. branch
of the Cauvery, which is called Bar
Chukki The height from which the
water descends is about 200 ft., and
in the rainy season an unbroken sheet
of water | m. broad falls over the
precipice to that depth with stunning
roar. In the dry season the stream
separates into sometimes as many as
fourteen distinct falls. In the centre
is a deep recess shaped like a horse-
shoe, down which the main stream
plunges, and then, being confined in a
narrow channel of rock, springs forward
with great velociiy, and falls a second
time about 30 n. into a capacious
basin at the foot of the precipice. Both
the N. and the S. streams after form-
ing these cataracts rush on through
wild and narrow gorges, and, reuniting
on the N.E. of the island, flow forward
to the E. The visitor who can select
his own time will do well to choose
the rainy season for his visit, as well
on account of the greater beauty of the
scenery, as because the island in the
cold months is not healthy.]
293 m. French Bocks sta. It is so
called from being the place where the
French soldiers in the service of Hyder
and Tipu were stationed. The name
of the place is properly Hirode ; pop.
3000. The Fort, 2882 ft. above the
sea, is 3 m. K. of the rly. sta.
296 m. SEBINGAPATAM sta. At
the W. end of an island in the Cauveiy
river. Pop., including the smburb of
Ganiam, 12,000.
The traveller who wishes to visit
this town is advised to stop at Mysore
and drive over for the day, bringing
his food with him. It is not wise to
sleep in Seringapatam as it is a hot-
bed of fever. There is no D.B., hot
the station in the centre of the fort is
a good place to rest and lunch.
The town has its name from a temple
of Vishnu Shri Ranga. This temple
is of great celebrity, alid of mudi
higher antiquity than the city, whidi
did not rise to be of importance
until the time of the princes of
the Mysore dynasty. As a proof of
its great antiquity, the fact may be
cited that it jb called the Adi Ranga,
or original Ranga, while the islands of
Shivasamudram and Seringham at
Trichinopoly are called respectively
Madhya Ranga and Antya Banga,
"meaiap-val Ranga" and ** modem
Ranga." It is said that Gautama
Rishi worahipped at this temple, which
is in the Fort. A Tamil memoir in the
M'Kenzie collection called Konga
desa Charitra, commented on by Prof.
Dowson {J.R,A,S. vol. viii.), says:
"On the 7th Vaishakhasudh, 816 A.s. =
894 A. p., a person named Tirumalayan
built a temple, and to the W. of it
erected an image of Vishnu, which he
called Tirumala Deva, upon some land
* in the midst of the Cauvery, where in
former times the Western Kanganada
Swami had been worshipped by
Gautama Rishi,' but which was then
entirely overrun with jungle. Tliis
place he called Shri Ranga Patnam."
In 1133 Ramanigachari, the Vish-
navite reformer, took refdge in Mysore
from the persecution of the Chola
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ROUTE 29. SERINGAPATAM
381
Raja, and oonverted from the Jain
faith Vishnu Yardhana, a famous Baja
of the Hojsala Ballala dynasty. The
royal convert gave him the province
of Ashtagrama including Serin^pa-
tam, over which he appointed officers
called Prabhurs and Hebbars. In
1454 the Hebbar Timmana obtained
from the Raja of Yijayanagar the
TOvemment of Serineapatam, with
J«ave to build a fort there. This he
did with treasure he had found, and
he also enlarged Shri Banga's temple
with the materials obtained by de-
molishing 101 Jain temples at Kalas-
vadi, a town 8 m. S. His descendants
governed till the Raja of Yijayanagax
appointed a viceroy with the title of
Shri-Ranga-Rayal. The last of these
viceroys was Tirumala Raja, who in
1610 surrendered his power to Raja
VTodayar, the rising ruler of Mysore ;
after which Seringapatam became the
capital of the ^sore Rajas, and of
Hyder and Tipu, till the Fort was
stormed twice, viz. in 1792 and 1799,
by British armies. After the 4th of
May 1799 Mysore became the capital.
The Fort. — In the western extremity
of an island in the river Kaveri stands
the fort, the northern the longest face
'nst a mile in extent. At the other
end was the Sultan's palace in a large
garden (the Lai Bagh) and a large
"pettah" named Shah Ganjam, sur-
rounded by a mud wall ; between it
and the fort stood another palace in
the Daulat Bagh, and to the south of
this an extensive bazaar. Yarious
redoubts and batteries defended the
island towards the river. The plan of
the Fort is an irregular pentagon,
about 1 ro. in length, and \ m. in
breadth. Buchanan says (vol. L p.
62): "The Fort occupies the upper
(Western) end of the island, and is an
immense, unfinished, unsightly, and
injudicious mass of building." Tipu
seems to have had too high an opinion
of his own skill to have consulted the
French who were about him, and
adhered to the old Indian style of
fortification, labouiing to make the
place strong by heaping walls and
cavaliers one above another. He was
also very diligent in cutting ditches
through the granite. He retained the
long straight walls and square bastions
of the Hindus ; and his glacis was in
many parts so high and steep as to
shelter an assailant from the fire of the
ramparts.
Outside the fort on the N. and S. of
the Eaveri, a "bound hedge" enclosed
a large space. That on the north was
1 to 1^ m. deep by 3 m. long along
the river. It was defended by six
redoubts. Here Tipu had formed
his camp. His army consisted of
6000 cavalry and 40,000 to 50,000
infantry.
First Siege.— On the 5th Feb. 1792
the British allied army under Lord
Comwallis numbering 10,000 white
troops, 27,000 native troops with 400
gms, assisted by 45,000 Mahratta and
yderabad cavalry, drew up in position
about 8 miles north-west of S., its
right protected by the French rocks,
and its left resting on a low range
running north and south, which ter-
minates in the Earighat hill on the
river Eaveri (easily distinguishable by
pagoda on crest of spur). This brought
the army opposite Tipu Sultan's for-
tified camp on the north side of the
river covering S.
On the evening of the 6th Feb.
orders were issued for a night attack,
by infantry only, on the "bound
hedge " position north of the Eaveri.
Three columns marched out of the
British camp, together numbering
9000 men. Each column forced the
hedgje and Tipu's troops retreated
hurriedly into the fortress and pettah.
The British troops in detached parties
nearly succeeded in penetrating with
the fugitives into the fort. Many of
the British were drowned in fording
the Eaveri. Colonel Monson (after-
wards weU known for his disastrous
retreat before Holkar in 1805) crossed
the island to the south. Although
unsuccessful in forcing the gate of the
fort, a firm footing was gained in the
pettah, and the enemy's camp taken.
These positions were held by the
British, and trenches were commenced
to breach the wall of the feH on the
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ROUTE 29. MADRAS TO BANGALORB AND MTSORB
India
north. The 16th Feb. a force of 9000
men under General Abercrombj joined
from the Bombay Presidency, raising
the total numbers of the Army to
those shown above. 24th Feb. peace
preliminaries were commenced by
which Tipu lost a large proportion of
his territory.
Several English prisoners were re-
leased here, some had been upwards of
ten years confined in chains by Tipu
in the island. They were perhaps
some of those taken by the French
Captain Suflfrein when he took 500
British in H.M.S. HanntbcU, When
Chitaldroog fort not far from Ban^-
lore was taken, **Mr. Drake, midship-
man of the Hannibal, and three
private men of H.M.*s Navy, escaped
ripom that fort ; they were some of the
few that remained of the 500 prisoners
of war who were delivered over to
Hyder Ali (Tipu's father) by M.
Suffrein in August 1782." Extract
from Dirom's Narrative.
Seoond Siege. — In spite of the
lesson taught in this first siege, Tipu
determinea to revenge himself. He
used the years between 1792 and 1799
in preparing his stronghold for defence.
He was warned by French advisers of
the danger that the west angle of the
Fort was in from "enfilade" fire.
On our side this weakness in the west
angle of the fort was also noticed,
notably by Captain Beatson, one of
"the Guides" of the Q. M. G. Depart-
ment. Tipu secretly built an inner
moat and rampart in rear of the weak
portions of his line of defence. The
site of this inner rampart, pulled down
by us in 1799, is marked by tamarind
trees stUl growing. In the second
siege the principal line of attack by
regular siege parallels was from the
south-west direction, while the most
western bastion of the fort was cannon-
aded from both sides of the river, until
it was reduced to its present state of
ruins. Tipu was at this time a
desperate man ; his French advisers
and auxiliary troops had deserted him
in 1792. He spent his time mostly on
the ramparts in encouraging his men
and in devising new schemes of de-
fence. A large breach was ready for
assault by May 1799 immediately
south of the west angle of ib» Fort
At 1.80 P.M. on that day Sir David
Baird stepped out of the Ist parallel a
short distance from the breach and led
his stormers across the shallow Eaveri
river against this breach. The de-
fenders were taken by surprise, little
expecting an attack at this scorching
hot time of day. The breach was
successfully mounted, when to the
astonishment of all they found them-
selves in face of a second rampart ouite
untouched and separated from tnem
by a moat full of water ; so well had
Tipu kept his secret ! Fortunately fw
us one single plank across the moat
— left by the defenders in their haste
to withdraw — allowed the assanlting
party to cross and penetrate within
the inner rampart, and within a few
moments they were cutting down the
guard of the King's palace. At this
moment Tipu was on the north front
of the fort encouraging the defence
against an assault on an outwoik.
Hearing that the British were in the
fort he rushed back through the arch-
way— ^popularly supposed to be where
he was killed, and perhaps because the
arch makes a more picturesque back-
ground to the well-known picture of
Baird — and met his death wit^iin the
palace at the hands of a British private
soldier. Colonel A. Wellesley com-
manded the column which assaulted
the north side of the Fort This
officer was appointed military governor
of the place, and after two cuiys was
able to restore order among the soldiery
to whom the town had been given over
to sack, their hate of the tyrant
Tipu being greatly increased by the
torture to which he had lately been
exposing his prisoners.
The best way for the traveller to see
Seringapatam is from Mysore, driving
thence by the well-shaded road. As
he approaches from the S. he will
see beyond the town the hills, fit)m
which, on the morning of the 6th Feb.
1792, Lord Comwallis and staff re-
connoitred Tipu's position protecting
S. A spur on the extreme right sur-
mounted by a pagoda is the Karighat
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BOUTE 29. SERINGAPATAM
383
hill, surprised that night by a party
of the 7l8t and 72nd Highlanders,
who subsequently forded the river
under the fiery Baird, losing many
by drowning. Below these hills are
rice fields in much the same state
now as a c^itury affo when Comwallis
and the gallant Meadows led their
columns on that moonlit night. Small
rises in the ground will be noticed on
which were most likely built Eedgah
and Sultan's redoubt Meadows as-
saulted the Eedgah redoubt and took
it with loss of 11 officers and 80 men.
Here Monsieur Vigie and a detach-
ment of Frenchmen (360) escaped,
owing to their *' uniform being similar
to ours." Meadows, anxious at his
heavy loss in taking this fort, did not
push on, but tried to find Comwallis,
and took no more part in the attack
on that night of the 6th Feb. His
callant nature could not bear the
Sdlure of his column, and he remem-
bered a taunting remark of Comwallis,
and so brooded over the imaginary
imputation of cowardice, that, the day
peace was declared, he shot himself,
fortunately not fatally. Meanwhile
Comwallis's column, as related before,
forced the centre of Tipu's position,
took his tent, and breaking up into
small parties in the dark, hurried across
the river, '' the passage of which was
difficult owing to the number of fugi-
tives pressing into the island," and it
was by bad luck they failed to get into
the east ^ate of the Fort. One cannot
help admiring the dash of the British
soloiers who could achieve such a feat
as did those on the night of the 6th
Feb. just a century ago. Approaching
from Mvsore, the traveller, when within
two miles of the fort walls, will come
on the ground occupied bjr Gen.
Harris's army on the 6th Apnl 1799.
On that day the British forces arrived
from Madras, having crossed the Kaveri
at Sosilla, below Seringapatam. On
the extreme left of the fort walls he
can see at the north-west angle of the
fort, standing out in bold relief, the
bastion which Gren. Harris decided to
make his point of assault, the breach
to be made in the " curtain " wall near
it. Before he could approach the walls
the enemy's outposts had to be driven
in about Sultan pettah. Here Col.
Wellesley and the 88rd experienced a
slight reverse of fortuDe. Looking
beyond the N.W. bastion, a little
village can be seen in a clump of trees
overlooking the river from the north
bank, this is Agrarium villa^, close
to which the enfilading batteries were
formed.
A picturesque stone bridge over the
little Kaveri is now reached. This is
"Wallace's Post." Immediately be-
yond this was "Skelly's Post," each
gained by hard fighting. A short way
before crossing a smaU canal 1. along
the canal bank and in a luxuriant
garden is Irvine's grave in good preser-
vation. This seems to m the only
grave still marked of the 11 officers
and 62 men killed on that night of the
26th April 1799, when the enemy's
advanced trenches along the Kaveri
were assaulted. The assailants were
partly successful and took shelter in
the small canal, at that time dry. On
the right Col. Campbell and parties
from the 71st Regt. and a Swiss Regi-
ment took a redoubt in front of the
Periapatam bridge, across which they
followed the fugitives as far as the
entrenched camp on the island, and
after sinking some guns made good
their retreat under a heavy fire. The
bridge is a short distance in front, and
will be crossed to get into the fort.
307 killed and wounded this night.
"On the morning of the 27th April
Col. Wallace's position," above re-
ferred to, "was very critical. All the
men that could be spared from the
trenches were sent with pickaxes, and
by 10 A.M. had thrown up sufficient
, cover to secure the position which
obtained the name of Wallace's Post."
On the 29th April and 1st May the
breaching batteries were completed
close up to the walls. To this spot
the traveller should now proceed. It
is marked by two guns sunk in the
ground. Opposite he will see the
Elace were tne breach was made, now
uilt up by order of the Maharaja.
Retiring from this from the fort, he
will see a small pagoda on high
ground a short way S'om the guns.
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384
ROUTE 29. MADRAS TO BANGALORE AND MYSORE
India
Bereabouts was the positdon of a
battery. Walking still further from
the fort and threading his way through
the thickly-wooded country, he will
come on a rocW-bedded small river.
It is hard to reause that here we have
"M'Donald's Post." The rippling of
water is only heard, except for the
occasional splash made by a bright
kingfisher snooting down into the
stream, and in the distance the slow
creaking of the labourers' water-lift.
*• 17th April 1799 Col. McDonald with
the 2nd 12th Madras Infantry occupied
the bank of the little Kaveii, which
thence was known by the name of
M Donald's Post, and was afterwards
used as a depot for the engineers' tools
and materials. Casualties this day,
two officers killed." It is extremely
hard to trace the features of the ground
owing to the dense foliage all about
this quarter.
" On the evening of the 8d of May
the situation of the army was ex-
tremely critical. There was not at
this time more than two days' supply
of food in camp."
Op^site the breaching battery
Agrarium village can still be seen.
Returning along the canal, the tra-
veller now can proceed into the island
over Periapatam bridge, and then,
turning to the right, drive through
Shah Ganjam and visit Hyder All's
and Tipu's tombs, the Daulat Bagh
where Wellesley lived three years, and
then on into the fort. The neighbour-
hood of S. is full of interest. Hyder
Ali and Tipu — the usurper and his
son — cost us many thousand brave
soldiers whose bones lie buried around
the capital on every side.
In the Fort on the N. side, and
between the second and last walls, are
the wretched places in which Colonel
Baillie and other military prisoners
were confined from 1780 to the peace
in 1786.
A good yiew of the city and sur-
rounding country may be obtained by
ascending one of the minars of the
Jumma Musiid, built by Tipu not
long before his death. The houses
in the Fort have been for the most
part demolished, and those that re-
main are greatly dilapidated. The
place is notoriously unhealthy. The
spot where the breaching battery was
placed is marked by two cannons
fixed in the ground opposite the W.
an^le, and close to the river's edge,
and the breach itself is visible a
short distance to the right of the
road to Mysore. All along this part
where the stormers rushed to ^e
slaughter there are now trees with
luxuriant foliage, and the grass grows
freshly under them. Tipu's Palaa
is within the walls. The greater part
of it has been converted into a ware-
house for sandal -wood, and the rest
has been demolished. It was a very
large building surrounded by a mass-
ive wall of stone and mud, and was
of a mean appearance. The private
apartments of Tipu formed a square,
and the entrance was by a strong and
narrow passage, in which fonr tigers
were chained. Within was tiie hall
in which Tipu wrote, and to it few
except Mir Sadik were ever admitted.
Behmd the hall was the bedchamber.
The door was strongly secured on the
inside, and a close iron grating de-
fended the windows. Buchanan says
that Tipu, lest any person should fire
upon him while in bed, slept in a ham-
mock suspended from the roof by chains,
in such a situation as to be mvisible
from the windows. * * In the hammo(^
were found a sword and a pair of loaded
pistols." The only other passage led
into the women's apartments, which
contained 600 women, of whom 80
were wives of the Sultan, and the rest
attendants.
The Darya Davlat Bagh, a sfummer
palace of Tipu, just outside the Fort,
is distinguished for its graceful pro-
portions and the arabesque work in
rich colours which covers it The W.
wall is painted with the victoir of
Hyder over Colonel Baillie near C<m-
jeveram in 1780. It had been defined
prior to the siege, but the Duke of
Wellington, then Colonel Arthur Wel-
lesley, who made this garden his
residence, had it restorecL It was
afterwaixls whitewashed and almost
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ROUTE 2D. MYSORE
385
obliterated, but Lord Dalhousie, having
visited the spot during his tour in
Mysore, ordered it to be repainted by
& native artist who remembered the
oriffinal. The perspective ia very bad,
ana the general eflect erotesque, but
the painter has succeedea in caricatur-
ing the expression and attitude of the
British soldiers, and the Frenchmen
are very lifelike.
The Lai Bagh is a garden on the
other side of Ganjam, which suburb
intervenes between it and the Darya
Daulat. It contains the mausoleum
of Hyder and Tipu, a square building
surmounted by a dome, with minarets
at the angles, and surrounded by a
corridor which ia supported by pillars
of blac^ hornblende, a stone that is
remarkable for its beautiful polish.
The double doors, inlaid with ivory,
were given by Lord Dalhousie. Each
of the tombs ia covered with a crimson
pall. The whole ia kept up at Govern-
ment exj>ense. The tablet on Tipu's
tomb is in verse to this effect i The
light of Islam and the faith leffc the
world. Tipu became a martyr for the
faith of Mohammed. The sword was
lost and the son of Hyder fell a noble
martyr. The inscription gives the
date 1213 a.h. = 1799 a.d. In the
Lai Bagh is a simple memorial to
Colonel Baillie, who died in 1782, a
prisoner of Tipu. On the way to
that place, on slightly rising ground
near the road, are interesting memor-
ials of the officers and men of the
12th and 74th Regiments killed in
action in 1799.
305 m. MTSORE sta. ^ (D.B. on N.
side of town), the capital of the state
so called (the pop. of Mysore state is
4,869,760), at the N.W. base of Cha-
mundi Hill, an isolated peak risine to
3489 ft. above the sea. Mysore with its
three suburbs has 60,000 inhabitants.
The town is built in a valley formed by
two ridges running N. and S. There
is a dignt ascent on the N. side. The
streets are broad and regular, and there
are many substantial houses two or
three stories high, with terraced roofs.
Most of the houses, however, are tiled.
[India]
The town has a neat and thriving look,
and the sanitation has been much at-
tended to by the municipality. In the
Fort, which occupies the S. quarter,
the appearance of the houses is less
promismg, and the streets are narrow
and irregular. The Jail is nearly
opposite it to the W., and the Residency
is I m. S. in the E. part of the town,
and another \ m. S. are St, Barthol-
mew* 8 Church and the Wesleyan Church,
The summer Palace is about 600 yds.
E. of the Fort, while another palace ia
in the Fort itself, and a thira some-
what to the W.
The Fort is quadrangular, three of
the sides being 450 yds. long, and the
fourth or S. side somewhat longer.
There are gates on the N., S., and W.
Those on the N. and S. are protected
by outworks : flanking towers com-
mand the curtain at intervals. At
the S.E. angle there is a casemate,
and a parapeted cavalier at the N.E.,
but the defences are mean and ill-
planned. A ditch surrounds the Fort,
and a sloping glacis covered with
houses abuts it on all sides but the
E., where the ditch is separated from
the Devaraj Tank only by the high-
road to Nanjangud. The interior of
the Fopt ia crowded with houses, chiefly
occupied by retainers of the palace.
The Maharaja's Palace withm the
Fort faces due E., and is built in the
ultra -Hindu style. There are a few
paintings by a European. The front
IS tawdry and supported by foui* fan*
tastiually carved wooden pillars. The
Sejje or Dasara hall is an open gallery
where the Raja showed himself to the
people seated on his throne on great
occasions. The throne is very remark-
able. According to one account it
was presented to the ambassadors of
Chikka Deva Raja in 1699 by the
Emperor Aurangzib (Wilks, vol. i. p.
106) for their prince. The palace
legend at Mysore is that it was found
buried at Penkonda by the founders
of the Vyayan^r Empire, Hakka or
Harihara and Bukka, who were told
where it was by one Vidyaranya, an
ascetic. The legend goes on to say
that it was the throne of the Pandus,
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386
ROUTE 29. MADRAS TO BANGAtiORS AND MT30RS
India
when they reigned at Hastinapura,
whence Kampma Raja brought it,
and bnried it at Penkonda. It is
at all events certain that it was used
by Chikka Deva and his successors up
to the time of Tipu Sultan ; that it
was found in a lumber-room when
Serin«kpatam was taken by the British,
and that it was employed at the corona-
tion of the Raja to whom they con-
ceded the government. It was origin-
ally of fig -wood overlaid with ivory,
but after the restoration of the Raja
the ivory was plated with gold and
silver carved with Hindu mythological
figures. The principal gate of the
palace opens into a passage under the
Sejje leading into an open court. At
the farther or W. side of this court
is the door leading to the women's
apartments, which occupy the W. part
of the palace. In the in . side are the
armoury, library, and various offices.
The Amba Vilasa is an upper room.
It is hung with portraits* of officers
connected with Mysore. The floor is
of dazzling white chunam, and the
doors are overlaid with ivory or silver
richly carved. The sleeping apart-
ments, which are small, open upon
the Amba Vilasa. The palace nas
been almost all built since 1800, but
is already in bad repair. Tipu de-
molished the old palace of the Rajas,
but left one inner room with mud
walls of great thickness. This is
called the "Painted Hall," from the
coloured decoration of the ceiling, and
is said to have been the State reception-
room. In front of the palace there is
an open space, but on all other sides
it is pressed upon by the huts of poor
people.
Opposite to the W. gate of the Fort
is a handsome building called the
Mohan Mahals or "pleasure -palace,"
built as a place of amusement for
European officers, The upper story
is adorned with pictures in the Indian
style. E. of the town are the houses
of European residents. Here is the
Residency, built by Colonel Wilks at
the beginning of this century, in the
Doric style. Sir John Malcolm added
the back part, in which is one of the
largest rooms in S. India. As the
post of Resident has been aboliahed,
this building is occupied by the Com-
missioner of the Asntagram DivisLon.
The District CivU Ofiace was built
and for some time occu^ed by the
Duke of Wellington, then CoL Wd-
lesley.
Until the beginning of the l7th
century the Mysore chiefs paid tribute
to the Viceroy of Seringapatam, who
was an officer of the Raja of V^jaja-
nagar, but in 1610 they conquered
that city, and thenceforward became
powerful. Tipu tried to obliterate
all traces of the Hindu rule, and razed
the Fort of Mysore to the ground, using
the materials to build gnother fort on
an eminence 1 m. to the E., which he
called Nazarabad, some remains of
which are still to be seen. When
Tipu fell, the stones were brought
back and the Fort rebuilt on its
original site. Owing to the presence
of the court, Mysore grew as Seringa-
patam decreased. The Raja was
divested of power in 1831, owing to
the disturbances occasioned b^ Ms
misrule, but he continued to reside in
the palace at Mysore, and one-fifth of
the revenue was assigned to Imn. The
state was handed over to a Native
Ruler in 1888.
Chamundi, the hill wliich overlooks
Mysore, is 2 m. S.E. of the Fort. It is
precipitous and rises to 3489 ft. above
sea-level ; a fine road 5^ m. long leads
to the top, on which is a temple.
Human sacrifices were ofiered here
until the time of Hyder *Ali. Two-
thirds of the way up is a colossal
figure of Nandi, the sacred bull of
Sniva, hewn out of the solid rock — a
well-executed work.
Nanjangud, 12 m. to the S., possesses
a temple 385 ft. long by 160 ft. broad,
supported by 147 cmunins. It is one
of the most sacred in the Mysore dis-
trict, and enjoys a Government grant
of 20,197 TS. There is a celebrated
car-festival here in March, which lasts
three days, and is resorted to by
thousands.
Seringapatam (p. 380) is best seen
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 30. THE SHBVAROYS AND THE NILGIRIS
38T
xiving from this place. Provisions
9r the day should be taken.
ROUTE 30
'he Shevaroys and the Nilgiris,
coimbatorb and ootaoamxjnd
207 m. from Madras, Salem sta. (R.),
n the S.W. branch of the Madras
Lly., 75 m. S.W. of Jalarpet junc.
lie railway station is at Suranmn-
alam, 4 m. from the town. Salem
pop. 67,800) is the headquarters of
he district of the same name.
[The Shevaroy Hills. — Those who
esire to visit these interesting hUls
honld write or telegraph to the Yercaud
lotel for a conveyance to take them
rem Saramungalam to the foot of the
ills, a distance of about 7 m., and for
earers to take them 5 m. up the ghat
0 Yercaud. The journey to the foot
f the ghat is made in a buUock-coach,
r jtUka, and the ascent either by
ony or in a chair carried by " bearers.
''ercand is not a town, but consists
f a nnmber of houses scattered about,
'here are churches, a club, and post
ad telegraph office.
Only a few small streams are found
n the hills, some of which dry up be-
cveen the N.E. monsoon and the return
f the S.W. , and at their summits the
ills are scantily clothed with veeeta-
<m. On their sides for a third of the
scent the common trees and shrubs of
the plain are met with, the next third
is overgrown with bamboo, and above
it grow short coarse herbage, long rank
grass with ferns. The coflfee tree grows
on these hills luxuriantly. The plants
begin to bear in three years, are m full
bearing at six years, and last thirty
years. The steams, however, are
bordered with large, wide •spreading
trees. There is a pass on the N. side
as well as that on the S. from Salem.
The climate of the hills is peculiarly
g:ood for gardening operations and hor-
ticulture. A large number of imported
trees and plants flourish. In an open
room the thermometer seldom falls oe-
low 65"* F. or rises above 78" in the.
hottest months.] *
243 m. Erode junc. sta. (R.) Here
the South Indian Railway (metre-
gauge), branches to the S.E. to Trichi-
Bopoly (see p. 400).
[On this branch at 19 m. Unjalur
sta. is a very pretty village, with fine
trees and a long cocoa-nut avenue.
Close to the station, in an enclosure,
several huge figures of horses and other
animals can be seen from the train.
40 m. Eamr sta. This was the
capital of the ancient kingdom of Ohera.
The Fort was constantly besieged both
in ancient times and during our wars
with Tipu. In 1801 it was abandoned
as a military station. The ruins of
the Fort and old temple are both in-
teresting.
85 m. Trichinopoly.]
302 m. Podanur junc. sta. (R.)
Leaving here the S.W. main line, which
terminates at Calicut on the Malabar
coast, the traveller proceeds towards
the Nilgiri Hills, ana reaches at
305 m. Ck>imbatore sta., 1480 ft.
above sea-level (pop. 40,000). There
is a large central jail 1 m. N.W. of
the rly. sta. All Souls' Church is f
m. N.E. of the rly. sta., and the
Club is near it. The great sight of
Coimbatore is (3 m.) the Pagoda of
Perur. A view of a pillar at Perur will
be found at p. 372 of Fergusson's Hist,
of Arch.^ and also a brief mention of
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388
ROUTE 30. THK SfiEVAROTS AKD THE KILGIRIS
Inl
it. He says : *^ The date of the porch
at Peror is ascertained within narrow
Umits hy the figure of a Sepoy loading
a musket being carved on the base of
one of its pillars, and his costume and
the shape of his arm are exactly those
we find in contemporary pictures of the
wars of Aurangzib or the early Marathas
in the beginning of the 18th century.
The bracket shafts are attached to the
piers, as in Tirumal Nayak's buildings,
and though the general character of the
architecture is the same, there is a
coarseness in the details, and a marked
inferiority in the figure sculpture, that
betray the distance of date between these
two examples." We have, however,
*seen that at the Great Temple at Tan-
jore, which dates from the 11th or 12th
century, the figure of a European with
a round hat haa been introduced, and
there is no reason to doubt that new
figures were from time to time intro-
duced into the decorations of the
pagodas in the S. of India. In front
of the Pagoda, which is a very small
one, there is a Dwaja Stambha, 35 ft.
high. The temple is sacred to Sab-
hapati, a name of Shiva, and there is
a smaller one to Pattesbwar. They
were both built in Tirumal's time.
There is only one gopura with five
stories, about 55 ft. hi^h. In the
corridor leading to the Yimanah there
are eight very richly carved pillars on
either side in the front row, and behind
them eight smaller and plainer. From
the ceiling hang several chains, perhaps
in imitation of the chains with beUs
which hang from the Dwaja Stambha
in front of the building. The pillars
represent Shiva dancing the Tandev;
Shiva killing Oajasur, the elephant-
headed demon, appropriate enough in
a locality where wild elephants used to
do such mischief ; Vira Bhadra slaying
his foes ; and the Simha, or lion of the
S. Shiva is represented with a huge
shell of a tortoise at his back, which
forms his canopy. There is a hall of
72 pillars, but the Brahmans persist in
reckoning only 60. There is a small
chapel here with the appearance of
Jain worship.
827 m. Mettupalaiyam sta. ^ This
is the present terminus for passeng<
proceeding to the Nilgiris. Tongas
Coonoor, Wellington, and Ootacamufl
see Index and Directory (Mettupalj
yam). Travellers leaving Mettu]
yam after the arrival of the mail
from Madras should reach Ootacami
by 2 P.M. A narrow-gauge rail^
is now being constructed from
tupalaiyam to Coonoor.
From Mettupalaiyam there
good road, 5 m. long, crossing
Bhavani river to Kolar^ where the _
ascent commences. From Kolar
Coonoor it is about 9 m. by the
and steep ghat, and 16 m. by
splendid new ghat, up which a cai
can drive. Ootacamund is 12 m.
Coonoor by an easy metalled
passing the military dep6t of Weill
ton, 3 m. out of Coonoor, on the Ji
tala Hill. There is a bridle-track
part of the way which reduces
riding distance to 10 m. Eotagiri,
small sanatarium, is about 12 m. '
Coonoor. The journey horn Mel
palaiyam to Coonoor occupies three
a half hours, and to Ootacamund
and a half hours.
Coonoor if. is 6100 fL above sea-leTd
The climate is about 6** wanner tin
that of Ootacamund, the mean anooi
temperature being 65", and the rain&l
55 in.
In Coonoor itself there is not mm
to see, except the Ohurch, The ascail
to it is rather steep for a carriage.
Sims's Park, a prettily laid-out pnl
garden, contains an excellent collecti
of plants. One shady dell is fall
splendid tree-ferns and others of Is
size, and is overshadowed by large t
of scarlet rhododendron. Below
park is the Wellington Hace-eourse.
ride of 4 m. as the crow flies, but of 7 1
following the windings of the pa^
brings the traveller to the Kathari
Waterfall, which is situated N.K.
Coonoor, and not quite half-way
Kotagiri. The road leads for 3 m. tl|i
the skirts of pretty woods, s^bfa^asi
are here called, and then turning
into a narrower one not shaded by f
reaches (4 m.) a rockv bluff called
Digitized by VjOOQIC
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Digitized by VjOOQ
ROUTE 30. OOTACAMUND
389
"Seat, Below to the S. lie
offee plantations. The path
^Jids considerably, and turns
n bluff with a path all round
king the chasm into which
A that makes the Katharine
j^nds. The view here is fine.
^^all does not exceed 300 ft,
*, but the ravine is very deep.
0 affords a good idea of about
S.E. frontier of the Nilgiris,
nd Eotagiri it becomes wHder.
^^-—Hon to the Holikal drug, or
-i^jk Fort, which is on the suibimit
^i , that towers up to the left of
^^ in ascending from Mettu-
This expedition is one that
the whole day from dawn to
c^fmrnnhn^ Lb very fiatiguing. The road
'~ns o ff at the first zigzag on the
^t about 2 m. from Coonoor. A
idle-path along the ridge leads
,ji^u The best line to follow for part
j^way is a private road across a
itate, but the owner's consent
obtained. The peak is said
>85 ft. high, and commands in
^^-^Tjreather a splendid view.
^*^'' m the Post Office at Coonoor it
P^»;^t 3 m. to the Barracks at Wel-
[ ^^gL About i m. before reach-
Hi^ J3ie barracks a pretty fountain
^^J\jross-road is reached. The road
^jStef barracks turns off here sharply,
'"^ffracks, an unsightly pile, nearly
TtJL long, but believed to be among
l&est in India, lie at the foot of
^ ly steep hill, on which is the
HkEandant's house with its pretty
'• ^. About half-way up this hill
if reservoir. The water is brought
/ipes from a spot in the hUls about
-^ from the barracks, which were
^^lied in 1860. The hospital was
i in 1854. A large piece of ground
^ e to the barracks is cultivated by
soldiers, where both flowers and
^etables are very successfully grown.
3 mean annual range of the ther-
meter is 64", of the barometer 24"*.
I lamfjBll is about 70 in.
iund.3^— From Wellington
jks to Ootacamund is 9 m. The
well planted with trees; it
skirts a precipice of some hundred
feet in height, which looks down on
patches of cultivation. The scenery
IS magnificent. Ootacamund is in a
valley surrounded by lofty hills, of
which Dodabeta on the E. is the highest,
being 8622 ft. above sea-level. But
there are also other high hills, as Elk
Hill, 8090 ft. high. The Lake is 1 J m.
long from E. to W., but narrow. It is
7220 ft. above sea-level, and the road
round it is one of the pleasantest drives
in the place. The principal Churchy SU
Stephen's, is near the Post Office, the
Public Library, and the principal shops.
The Market is close to the E. end of
the Lake, and the Jail is to its W. on
the N. side. St. Thomas's Church is
on the S. side of the Lake and close to
it W. of the bridge.
A visit to the Chinchona FlarUations
of Dodabeta will afford a grand view
over Ooty, to the W., and the valley of
the Moyar river, to the E.
The Botanical Gardens, established
in 1840 by public subscription, are
beautifully laid out in broad terraces
one above another at the foot of a hill,
which gradually rises till it culminates
in the peak of Dodabeta, 1206 ft above
the Gardens, and 8622 ft above the
sea. The Superintendent's house is
charmingly situated, and has been used
by the Governor before the new Govern-
ment House was erected.
The Chinchona Plantations are not
much in point of appearance, as the
tree is small (25 ft.) and has but little
foliage. The species here cultivated is
the offidnjalis, and is of three kinds :
(1) the Condaminea ; (2) the Bonplan-
dinia ; (3) the Crispa. The system
pursued has been that after the tree
has grown eight years it is barked.
Half of the bark is taken off in six
months during the rains, and the other
half next year. The tree then rests
one year, so that each yield takes three
years. When barked it is swathed in
moss, a system which Mr. M'lvor, the
late Superintendent, introduced from
Peru. After the tree has been mossed
it gives an improved yield, as it de-
velops more bitter anda^aloid particles.
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390
ROUTE 30. THE SHEVAROYS AND THE NILQIRIS
India
The bark is out off in parallel slips, and
flTows again after the mossing. The
Dutch system, sinoe introduoed, consists
of shaving off the outer layers of bark,
never completely stripping any portion
of the tree. This is the crown Dark.
From the top of the ridge a most
superbpanorama is seen. Looking to
the S. W. one notices Elk Hill, 8090 ft.
high, behind which, and not visible, is
the Ifatorence Asylumj 7330 ffc. Farther
to the S.W. is Chinna Dodabeta, or
Little Dodabeta, 7849 fb., and in the
far W. Ckiim Billy 7683 ft. Ootaca-
mund itself and its Lake and St. Ste-
phen's Church Hill, 7429 ft Beyond
are still higher hills, as SnoiodoTb, 8299
ft., and Cluh Hill, 8030 ft. The finest
view, however, is to the E. Here is
Orange Valley, where oranges ^ow
wild. Here too is the Moyar valley,
ignobly termed "the Mysore Ditch,"
but really profound and gloomy with
forests and the shadows of overhanging
hiUs. Here also is seen dimly the Gajal-
hatti Pass and Eotagiri, and mountains
beyond almost unknown and inacces-
sible from dense forests containing
savage beasts. The visitor will observe
the two kinds of acada, the melan-
oxylon and dealbata, and the euca-
lyptus globulus, or blue ffum tree,
which at its third year sheds its blue
leaves, and puts out others of a dark
green. After descending from the
ne^hts he mav take a path to the
N.E., previously, of course, having
ordered his carriage to meet him at the
foot of the hill in that direction. The
whole expedition will take about six
or seven hours, that is supposing that
the highest peak, Dodabeta itself, is
visited.
The Latorence Asylum is 5 m. from
the Post Office at Ootacamund, and
is a handsome structure, with a tower
over 70 ft. high, situated in a lovely
valley. The dining-room is large
enough to accommodate 300 boys. In
it are good portraits of Sir Hope and
Lady Grant. The boys learn among
other things telegnphv, and compete
for appointments in the Government
Telefi^ph Department; others are
taught trades, and some are enlisted
in regiments stationed in India, The
visitor may return by another road,
and will notice a fine piece of water.
He will remark also me tea- planta-
tions.
In some of the compounds or grounds
at Ooty are beautiful shrubs. Baikie's
Guide says that a heliotrope in Mr.
Dawson's garden attained 10 ft in
height, and 30 ft. in circumference,
and a verbena 20 ft. in height, with
the branches of a tree.
Eaity. — There is a jjleasant drive of
5 m. to the S.E. to Kaity. A Govern-
ment farm was established in the Ksitr
valley in 1831, in the hope that Euro-
pean j>roduce might be derived from it
This idea was not realised, and th«
Governor of Pondicherry then inhalnted
the farmhouse for a time. After this
Lord Elphinstone took a lease of the
property for 99 years. He enlarged thf
building, and fuirnished it niagnifi< ently
with articles selected by Count d'Orsaj.
In 1845 Mr. Casamajor, of the MaditLs
Civil Service, bought the property for
15,000 rs. and expended 10,000 rs. (m
it. At his death he bequeathed tiie
greater part of his fortune to the BatU
Mission^ which has a church and con-
gregation here.
Murkorti Peak is 20 nu due W. of
Ootacamund, among the grand moun-
tains of the Eundas, where the scenery
is magnificent. 8 m. can be driven ; the
remaining 12 m. must be on horseback
Of course the traveller must take his
refreshments with him, for none are to
be had in that wild region. It will be
also well to take a rifle. This peak is
8402 ft high, while Avalanche Hill
is 8502 ft., Eundah Peak 8353 ft., and
Devibetta ("Sugar-loaf Hill") only
6571 ft. Another name for the Mur-
kurti Peak is Taigawnanu "It is a
spot held sacred by the Todas «s
the residence of a personage whom
they believe to be the kee^ of iht i
gates of heaven." ^ The religion of thi^
singular tribe, the Todas, £» not yet
been definitely ascertained. The author
of this book conversed with one of their
old men in Eauarese, and on inter-
I Smoult's 64. of ^ikUfs 6%idt, i
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ROUTE 30. MURKURTI PEAK
391
r^^tiBg him on the subject of his
faith, the old man said, *'I worship
the Swami, who dwells in heaven, but
I know not His name." In going to
this peak the traveller follows the
windmgs of the Pavhk river to its con-
fluenoe with the Paikari. Thence he
will trace the Paikari to its source,
which is close to the Murkurtl Peak.
From the source of the Paikari an easy
ascent of H m. leads to the summit of
the peak ; and there, should the mist
and clouds fortunately roll away, a
grand scene will present itself to the
view. The W. side of the mountain
is a terrific and perfectly perpendicular
precipice of at least 7000 ft. The
mountain seems to have been cut sheer
through the centre, leaving not the
slightest shelve or ledge between the
pinnacle on which the traveller stands
and the level of the plains below. To
add to the terror of this sublime view,
the spot on which the gazer places his
feet is as crumbling as precipitous, the
ground being so insecure that with
ahnost a touch large masses can be
hurled down the prodigious height
into the barrier forest at the foot of
the hills, which at such a distance
looks like moss.
Other sights on the Nilgiris are the
taaUifcUls at U- Yal-HaUi, and those at
the top of the Sigur Ghat ; there is also
another much finer fall, in the heart of
the Eundas, formed by the Bhawani,
400 or 600 ft. high, with a large body
of water, and surrounded by scenery of
the most savage grandeur, but it is diffi-
cult of access. The Ranga- Swami
Temple, and the fortress of Gagana
Chukki, may also be visited. The
native villages of the Todas (the ab-
original hill tribe) and other tribes
may be seen en rotUe in any of these
expeditions.
The stone-oircleB, which the Todas
call Phins, and which contain images,
nrns, relics, and some very prettily-
wrought gold ornaments, are round in
many parts of the hills, but the most con-
venient locality for a visit from Ootaca-
mand is the hill of Karoni, 3 m. to the
S. The circles are built of rough un-
hewn stone, some of them of a large
dize^ which roust hftve bee» brought
from a considerable distance. The
history of their construction is quite
unknown.
It remains to say something of the
sport to be obtained on the Nilgiris,
and of the natural products. The
woods in general are so ornamentally
disposed as to remind one of the parks
in a European country. They are
easily beaten, and from the end of
October to March woodcock are found
in them. Jungle-fowl and spur-fowl
are very numerous. Partridges are
rare ; quails common in the lower parts
of the hills. Snipe come in in Sep-
tember, and are seldom found after
April. The solitary snipe {Scolopax
major) is occasionally shot. There
are blackbirds, larks, thrushes, wood-
peckers, imperial pigeons, blue wood-
pigeons, doves, and green plovers in
abundance. There is also an immense
variety of hawks, and among them
a milk-white species, with a large
black mark between the wings ; as also
a cream-coloured species. Large black
eagles are occasionally seen ; and owls
of various sorts, particularly an
immense horned kind. Hares and
porcupines abound, and do much
damage to the gardens. Both are
excellent eating ; the flesh of the
porcupine resembles delicate pork.
Jungle sheep or muntjak can be found
in nearly all the sholas around the
station. In the most inaccessible parts
of the Eundas the ibex may be found,
but are very shy and difficult to
approach. Among the larger game
wild hogs and sambar or elk afford
good sport. Pole-cats, martins, jackals,
wild dogs, and panthers are numerous.
So, too, is the black bear, especially in
the early part of the monsoon, when
they ascend the hills in pursuit of a
large brown beetle, their favourite
food. Among the tall grass, which is
often as high as a man's head, and in
the thicker and larger sholas the royal
tiger is not unfrequently met with.
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392
ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
India
ROUTE 31
Madras to Conjeveram, Madura,
AND TiNNEVELLY BY THE SoUTH
Indian Railway, 433 miles.
Madras is described p. 336.
34 m. Chinglepnt junc. sta. (R.)
A line of 39 m. runs to Arkonam
junc. Sta, (R.) on the Madras Rly.
p. 335.
The Fort here, through part of which
the railway passes, contains the Public
Offices and Reformatory School, and was
erected by the Rajas of Vijayanagar
at the end of the 16th century. It
played an important part during the
contest between the English and
French, and was once bombarded by
Olive; it was afterwards a place of
confinement for French prisoners ;
and during the siege of Madras by
Lally it was of enormous use by en-
abling the garrison to annoy the
Frenwi rear, and intercept their com-
munications. This town is the centre
of the Tamil Missions of the Free
Church of Scotland. The Medical
Mission is at Walajabad near Con-
jeveram.
[On the branch between Chinglepnt
and Arkonam ia Conjeveram sta.
(Kanchipuram, the Golden City), 60 m.
from Madras by Arkonam, 66 m. by
Chinglepnt. The Benares of Southern
Hindustan, one of the 7 sacred cities
(40,000 inhab. ) The great festival here
is in May. The Temple^ about 2 m. from
the rly. sta., is dedicated to Ekambarah
Swami, which may mean the Deity
with the single garment. Just before
reaching the great temple there is a
mosque, which was formerly a Hindu
temple. The Gfreat Gopura is on the
S. side of the outer enclosure, and
has ten stories, and an enormous t(^
without any window or means of aacent
The topmost five stories have been re-
paired and somewhat altered. The
total height is 188 ft. In the view
from the top are seen 2 open pavilions,
consisting of a stone root on 16 stone
pillars, 18 ft. high, carved in alto-
relievo. The chief part of the town,
which is full of fine trees, and has veiy
broad streets, with low houses and a
good many smaller pagodas, is idso
visible, as is the railway to Arkonam.
2J m. S. is seen the Palar river. S.E.
is seen the Vishnava temple at Little
Conjeveram. £., and outside the
enclosure, is a magnificently carved
wooden car, very high, with massire
wooden wheels. Passing through the
Great Gopura an open space is entered,
and at 60 yds. to the left is the Hall
of 1000 Pillars. This hall stands to
the W. of the Great Gopura, and at its
N. end has another fine gopura, not so
high as the first In this nail are 20
rows of 27 pillars each, making alto-
gether 540, instead of 1000. Most of
the pillars have alto-relievo carvings,
but some are plain. In the centre ^
the hall the pillars have been closed
with wattle, so as to form a chamber,
in which various figures of monsters
are kept, which are carried in proces-
sion on high days. Only caste Hindus
are permitted to enter the adytum,
where a lamp is kept burning. There
are four rows of ornate pillars with
capitals of masonry before the vimansd),
and between it and the base of a small
gopura it is usual to bring out Nautch
girls to exhibit their performances to
visitors. Between the vimanah and
the Great Gopura is a very old
temple with a long inscription on its
outer wall in Granthi. In this, the
Ekambarah Temple, there are three
gopuras.
The Vish/Mi Temple in Little Con-
jeveram is about 2 m. off. Yishnu is
worshipped here under the name of
Varada Rajah, ** boon-giving king.'*
The entrance is under a gopura, which
has seven stories, and is about 100 ft.
high. On both sides of the gateway
are Sanscrit inscriptions in the Tamfl
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ROUTE 31. GINGI
393
cliaracter, called Granthi. There are
great numbers of Nautch girls. After
passing through the gopura, you have
on your left a hall of pillars, which is
the building best worth seeing in
Conjeveram. The pillars are carved in
most marvellous fashion, the bases
representing riders on horses and on
hippogrifis. At the S.K comer is a
remarkable carving of a chain with
eight links, like a cable, terminating
in the many heads of the Shesh Nag at
one end, and at the other in a sort of
taiL Visitors are not allowed to enter
this halL N. of the hall is a Teppa
Kulam and a small mandapam, with a
doable row of pillars. E. of the Kulam,
or tank, is a small temple dedicated to
the Chakrah, or discus, of Vishnu.
Here, at the request of a visitor, the
jewels will be shown. Ornaments for
the head, of which there are at least five,
are called Konda and Kiraten, and are
like two basins, one placed on the other
reversed, of gold, and studded with
rubies, diamonds, and emeralds, worth
from 6000 to 10, 000 rs. each. Nagasena
is a fillet li in. broad, studded with
gems, used to bind the hair of the
goddess Vishnu's consort. Kantha
Hara are necklaces of various kinds, of
pearls, rubies, and emeralds. Twre are
aigrettes of rubies. Gold chains are
too numerous to mention, and are
worth from 800 to 1000 rs. Observe
also a Makkara KaTvthay a sort of neck-
lace, worth 7000 rs., given by an Achari.
Observe too the padamSf gold casings
for the feet of idols, studded with
jewels, and a Makkara Kantha, a neck-
lace with pendants, worth 8600 rs. , said
to have been given by Lord Clive, and a
Pcbda Kwre, an ornament for the neck,
and Nei Koth, frontlets. On the wall
of the enclosure are numerous Tamil
words and letters, said to be builders'
marks. On the W. and E. side of the
wall of the inner enclosure, about the
centre, is a mark something like a
ho«se-ahoe, which is said to be the first
letter of Vishnu. Ever since 1789 two
sects have been fighting fiercely about
the form of this symbol. The keepers of
the shrine say it should be made with
a plain line.
On the way back from the temple
one may visit the Makbarah, or tomb
of Hamid Auliya, who was the minister
of a king of Bijapur, and subsequently
canonist The buildinff has a small
dome, and stands 100 yds. back from
the road in a garden.
A few m. N.W. of Conjeveram
Baillie's Division was cut to pieces by
Hyder *Ali, and Sir Hector Munro
threw his guns and baggage into the
Temple Tank on his retreat to Chingle-
put]
75 m. Tindivanam sta. (B.), B.B.
[18 m. W, of this station by road is
Gingi {Chenji), considered the most
famous fort in the Camatic. The
interest of the place is exclusively his-
torical. The fortress consists of three
strongly-fortified hills connected by long
walls of circumvallation. The highest
and most important hill is called
Rajamri, about 500 or 600 ft. high,
whicn consists of a ridge terminatmg
in an overhanging blufi^ facing the S.,
and falling with a precipitous sweep to
the plain on the Is . On the summit
of this bluff" stands the citadeL On the
S.W., where the crest of the ridge
meets the base of the bluffi a narrow
and steep ravine probably gave a diffi-
cult means of access to the top, across
which the Hindu engineer built three
walls, each about 20 or 26 ft. high,
rising one behind the other at some
little distance, and rendering an attack
by escalade in that direction almost
impracticable. On the N. side a narrow
chasm divides a portion of the rock
from the main mass. This chasm the
fortifiers of the rock artificially pro-
longed and deepened ; and where it
had a width of about 24 ft., and a
depth of about 60 ft., they threw a
wooden bridge over it, and made the
only means of ingress into the citadel
through a narrow stone gateway facing
the bridge.
Several ruins of fine buildings are
situated inside the fort. Of these the
most remarkable are the two pagodas,
the Ealiyana Mahal, the Gymkhana,
the Granaries, and the 'Idgah. The
Ealiyana Mahal consists of a square
court surrounded by rooms for the
ladies of the Governor's household. In
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ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
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the middle is a square tower of eight
stones, with a pyramidical roof.
The principal objects of interest are
— the great gun on the top of Bajasiri,
which lias the figures 7560 stamped on
it ; the Raja's bathing-stone, a large
smooth slab of granite. The prisomrs'
well \& a very singular boulder, about 15
to 20 ft. high, poised on a rook near the
Chakrakulam, and surmounted by a
low circular brick wall. It has a
natural hollow passing through it like
a well.
Gingi was a stronghold of the Vijav-
anagar power, which was at the height
of ite prosperity towards the close of the
15th century, and was finally over-
thrown by the allied Mohammedan
kings of the Deccan in 1564 at Talikot.
In 1677 the fort fell to Shivaji by
stratagem, and remained in iilaratha
hands for twenty-one years. In 1690
the armies of the Delhi emperor, under
Zulfikar Ehan, were despatched against
Gingi with a view to the final extirpa-
tion of the Maratha power : the fort
ultimately fell in 1698, and became the
headquarters of the standing army in
Arcot In 1750 the French under M.
Bussy captured it by a skilful and dar-
ingly executed night-surprise, and held
it with an efficient garrison for eleven
years, defeating one attack by the
EngUsh in 1752.]
98 m. Villnpuram juno. sta. (B.)
D.B.
[Branch N.W. to Vellore (Rte. 29),
Tirupati (Rte. 24), and E. 24 m. to
Pondichenr sta. ifi (141,000 inhab.),
capital of the French possessions in
India, which have an extent of 178
sq. m., and a pop. of 280,385. The
town, founded 1674 by Francois Mar-
tin, LB divided by a canal into White
and Black Towns,— the White Town
next the sea. The Ooverwment ffoiise, a
handsome building, is situated at the
N. side of the Place, within 300 yds. of
the sea. The means of locomotion here
is a pouase-poitsae, which is like a bath-
chair pushed by one or two men, and
glides along at a great rate over the
level streets. The Cathedral, built
1855, is called Notre Dame des Anges,
The Fier is 150 metres long. At its
entrance, ranged in a semidrde^ are
eight pillars, 88 ft. high, of a grayish
blue stone, brought from Ginci, wmcb
is 40 m. distant as the crow fliea. The
French assert that these and others
were given to M. Dupleiz bv the
Governor of GingL On the thira piUar
on the left side, uioking towards the sea,
is an astronomical plan by some as-
tronomers who were directed to fix the
exact longitude of Pondicherry. On
the next pillar is inscribed *' Place
de la B^publique." 50 yds. W. of
the W. end of the pier is £he sUshu tf
DwpUiXy on a pedestal formed of oM
fragments of temples brooffht from
Gingi. At a distance this pedestal has
anything but a graceful appearance,
and seems formed of logs of wood. On
the ledge is the date 1742-54. Foot
more pillars grace this end of the PUui,
The band plays here twice a week, and
there are seats and a promenade. At
the S. end of the promenade is the
Hdtel de Vtlle, a neat building, and R
of this on the beach is a battery of
eight small guns. There is also a Light-
hm8e, which shows a light 89 ft. above
the sea. The High Cowrt (La Cour
cPAppel) ia a handsome square building.
A csmal separates the European from
the Native Town. Crossing this canal,
and turning to the N., you pass a lane
hospital, built at the expense of the
Comte de Richemont. N, of this is
the Missionaries' Church, whidi is
called La Caihidrale de hi Yille Ndie.
N. of this again is a school with 450
pupils, on the facade of whic^ is in-
scribed, " College Calve Soupraya Chet-
tiyar," after the founder. It is a fine
white building. The Prison Oine-
rale, in which are generally about 330
prisoners, is opposite to the dock-tower,
built at the expense of a native resi-
dent. Here isanother pillar fit»n Gingi.
making thirteen in all. A boulevard
begins nere which goes round the town.
Continuing the drive and turning to
the S.E., one may visit the ootton-
spinning factory, or FUaiure, called
Savanah, and founded in 1826* Here
IB an artesian well which gives 200
litres a minute of beautifully dear
water. The public gardens are tAso
worth a visit.
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 31. PONDICHERRY— CUDDALORB
395
The places under the authority of
Poudicheny are Karikal, south of Iran-
<^Qebar ; Yanan, and the lodge of Masu-
lipatam ; Mah4 and the lodge of Calicut
on the Malabar coast; and Chanda-
nagar, in Bengal, on the Hooghly.
Pondicheiry it»elf has an area of 115
sq. m. The Governor receives 1600
rs. a month, the Attorney - General
200 rs., and the four senior judges
400 rs.
History.
In 1672 Pondicherry, then a small vil-
lage, was purchased by the French from
the king of Vijayanagar, seventy-one
years after the first arrival of French
ships in India. In 1693 the Dutch took
Pondicherry, but restored it, with the
fortifications greatly improved, in 1697,
at the peace of Ryswick. On the 26th
of August 1748 Admiral Boscawen laid
siege to it with an army of 6000 men,
but was compelled to raise the siege on
the 8th of October, with the loss of
1065 Europeans. M. Dupleix was the
Governor, and had under him a garri-
son of 1800 Europeans and 2000 Sepoys.
On the 29th of April 1758 M. Lally
landed at Pondicherry, and commenced
a vigorous war, which ended ruinously
for tne French.
In the beginning of July 1760 CoL
Coote, with 2000 Europeans, and 6000
natives, began to blockade Pondicherry.
On the 9th of September the English
army, having received reinforcements,
carried the bound-hedge, and two of
the four redoubts whicn defended it.
On the 27th of November M. Lally,
finding the garrison hard pressed by
famine, expelled all the native inhabit-
ants from the town, 1400 in number.
These being driven back by the English,
attempted to re-enter the fort, but were
fired on by the French, and some of
them killed. For ei^ht days these
unfortunates wandered between the
lines of the two hostile armies, subsist-
ing on the food which they had about
them and the roots of n-ass. At last,
finding Lally inexoraUe, the English
suffered them to pass. The hopes of
deliverance in the minds of the French
were soon dispelled by the arrival
of fresh meu-oi-war from Ceylon and
Madras, so that the blockading fleet
was again raised to eleven sail of the
line. On 16th Dec. 1760 the town
surrendered, as the garrison was reduced
to 1100 men of the Une fit for duty, and
these enfeebled by famine and fatigue,
with but two days' provisions left.
In 1763 Pondicherry was restored to
the French. On 9th Aug. 1778 Su-
Hector Munro, with an army of 10,500
men, of whom 1500 were Europeans
again laid siege to it On the lOth Sir
E. Vernon, with four ships, fought an
indecisive battle in the roads with five
French ships under M. Trongolloy,
who, some days after, sailed ofi* at
night, and left the town to its fate.
Pondicherry, after an obstinate defence,
was surrendered in the middle of Octo-
ber bv M. Bellecombe, the Governor,
and snortly after the fortifications were
destroyed. In 1783 it was re-trans-
ferred to the French, and on the 28d
of August 1793 retaken by the British.
The Treaty of Amiens, 1802, restored it
to its original masters, whereupon Bona-
parte sent thither General de Caen, with
seven other generals, 1400 regulars, a
bodyguard of eighty horse,and £100,000
in specie, with a view, doubtless, to ex-
tensive operations in India. His in-
tentions, nowever, whatever they may
have been, were defeated by the re-
occupation of Pondicherry in 1803.
The place was then attached to S.
Arcot, and yielded a yearly revenue of
46,000 rs. In 1817 it was restored to
the French, and has remained ever
since under their rule.]
125 m. Cuddalore New Town sta.
127 m. Cuddalore Old Town sta. (R. )
From the former station. Fort St. David
can most conveniently be visited, and
it is nearest to the public offices in the
civU station, and the D.B. At the Old
Town station are the railway work-
shops, and the residences of a consider-
able number of Europeans, also the
church and jail. An English manu-
script, * * The Cuddalore Obituary, " kept
in the church here is worth seeing.
The Jail is a new building. The
Church is at Old Town, and is interest-
ing on account of the old tombs iu and
Digitized by VjOOQIC
396
ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
India
about it. A small church has recently
b«en built in the New Town.
Fort St. David is interesting only
on account of its history. From 1691,
when it was purchased by the E. I. Co. ,
it remained m the hands of the British
until 1758, when it was besieged and
taken, after many unsuccessful attempts,
by the French, only to fall back into
British hands at the peace of 1783.
All that now remains of the fort are
the ditch, almost filled up, the founda-
tions of the once strong ramparts, and
some masses of the fallen walls.
144 m. Porto Novo sta. The town
stands on the N. bank of the river
Velar, close to the sea, and is called b^
the natives, Mahmud Bandar and Fi-
rin^pet. The Portuguese settled here
durmg the latter part of the 16th century,
beine the first Europeans who landed
on the Coromandel coast (see Manual
of S, Arcot, by J. H. Garstin, C.S.)
In 1678 the Dutch abandoned their
factory at Porto Novo and Devapat-
nam, and went to Pulicat
The chief historical recollection which
attaches to Porto Novo is that, mth-
in 3 m. of it to the N., close to the
sea-shore, was fought one of the most
important Indian battles of the last
century. Sir Eyre Coote had arrived
at Porto Novo on the 19th of June
1781, after having been repulsed the
day before in an attack on tne fortified
Pagoda of Chidambaram, which he con-
ducted in person. Hyder 'Ali was
encouraged by the success of his troops
on that occasion to hazard a battle,
and he took up and fortified an advan-
tageous position on the only road by
wnich the English could advance to
Cuddalore. An account of the battle
which ensued will be found in Mill,
vol. iv. pp. 209-212. A victory was
obtained, of which Sir J. Malcolm
speaks in the following terms : **If a
moment was to be named when the
ezistenoe of the British x>ower depended
upon its native troops, we should fix
upon the battle of Porto Novo. Driven
to the sea-shore, attacked by an enemy
exulting in recent success, confident in
his numbers, and strong in the terror
of his name, every circumstance com-
bined that could dishearten the small
body of men on whom the fate of the
war depended. Not a heart shrank from
the trial. Of the European battalions
it is, of course, superfluous to speak,
but all the native battalions appear
from every account of the action to
have been entitled to equal praise on
this memorable occasion, and it is diffi-
cult to say whether they were most
distinguished when suffering with a
patient courage under a heavy cannon-
ade, when receiving and repulsing the
shock of the flower of Hyder's cavaliy,
or when attacking in their turn the
troops of that monarch, who, baffled in
all his efforts, retreated from this field
of anticipated conquest with the loss
of his most celebrated commander, and
thousands of his bravest soldiers. "
151 m. ChidamtMuram sta., D.B. 1^
m. from sta. Pop. 20,000.
The Pagodas at Chidambaram are
the oldest in the S. of India, and
g»rtions of them are gems of art
ere is placed by some the N. fipontier
of the ancient Chola Kingdom, the
successive capitals of which were Uriyur
on the Cauvery, Eumbhakonam, and
Tanjore. The principal temple is
sacred to Shiva, and is affirmed to have
been erected, or at least embellished by
Hiranya Varna Chakravarti, "the
golden-coloured Emperor," who is said
to have been a leper, and to have origin-
ally borne the name of Swethavanmdi,
"the white -coloured," on account of
his leprosy, and to have come S. on a
pilgrimage. He recovered at Chidam-
baram miraculously, after taking a
bath in the tank in the centre of the
temple, and thereupon rebuilt or en-
larged the temples. He is said to
have brought 3000 Brahmans firom the
N. It is stated in one of the Mackenzie
MSS.thatVira Chola Raja (927-77 A.D.)
saw the Sabhapati, i.e, Shiva, dance on
the sea-shore with his wife, Parbati, and
erected the Eanak Sabha, or golden
shrine in memory of the god, who is
here called Nateaa, or Nateshwar,
"god of dancing." The whole area is
surrounded by two high walls, which
contain 82 acres.
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ROUTE 31. CHIDAMBARAM — MAYAVERAM
397
The outer wall of all is 1800 ft. long
from N. to S., and 1480 ft. from E. to
W. Nearly in the centre of this vast
space is a fine tank, 815 ft. x 180 ft
At the four points of the compass are
four vast gopuras, those on the N. and
S. being about 160 ft. high.
Near the tank is the Hall of 1000
Pillars, which is 340 ft. long and 190
ft. broad. Mr. Fergusson (p. 352,
Hist, of Arch.) makes the number of
pillars in this hall 984. This is one
of the very rare instances in India
where the so-called Hall of 1000
Pillars is almost furnished with that
number.
The Temple of Farbati, known as
Shivagamiamman, the wife of Shiva,
is principallv remarkable for its porch,
which is of sin^ar elegance.^ The
outer aisles of this porch are 5 ft. 6 in.
wide, the next 7 ft. 9 in., and the
centre 23 ft. The roof is supported by
bracketing shafts tied with transverse
purlins till only 9 ft. is left to be
spanned. The outer enclosure in which
this temple stands is very elaborate,
with two stories of pillars.
Adjoining this Temple of Parbati
is one to Subrdhmcmyay the enclosure
of which is 250 ft. x 305 ft. There is
the image of apeacock and two elephants
in front of it, then a portico witn four
pillars in front, with an inner court.
Fergusson assigns the end of the
I7th or beginning of the 18th centuij
as the date of this temple. There is
another small one to Subrahmanya,
and one to Ganesh in the comer of the
ffreat enclosure. There is also a man-
oapam to the S. of the court of
Parbati*s Temple, and several smaller
mandapams in other parts of the great
enclosure.
The principal temple to Shiva is about
30 yds. S. of the tank. In the S.W.
comer of this enclosure is a temple to
Parbati, and in the centre of the S. side
an idol of Nateshwar. In the centre
of all is the sanctuary, which' consists
of two parts. In this is the most sacred
image of the dancing Shiva, which is
that of a naked giant with four arms, his
ri^ht leg planted on the ^ound, and
his left lifted sideways. The roof of
1 Bee Fergusson, p. 358.1
this building is covered with plates of
gilt copper. There is also a tiny shrine
of which Mr. Fergpsson says : " The
oldest thing now existing here is a little
shrine in the small enclosure with a
little porch of two pillars about 6 ft.
high, but resting on a stylobate orna-
mented with dancing figures, more
graceful and more eleganuy executed
than any other of their class, so far as
I know, in S. India. At the sides
are wheels and horses, the whole being
intended to represent a car, as is fre-
quently the case in these temples.
Whitewash and modem alterations
have sadly disfigured this gem, but
enough remains to show how exquisite,
and consecjuently how ancient, it was.
It was dedicated to Verma, the god of
dancing." This pagoda was surrendered
to the British in 1760 without a shot,
but in 1781 Hyder garrisoned it with
3000 men, and Sir Eyre Coote was re-
pulsed from it with the loss of one
gun.
174 m. Mayaveram sta. The town, 3
m. distant (23,000 inhab.), is a place of
pilgrimage in November. The Shiva
Pagoda has one large gopura and one
small one. The Great Gopura stands at
the entrance on the S. side of the outer
enclosure, and has ten stories. To the
W. of this gopura is a Teppa Kulam,
N. of this is the Small Gopura with six
stories. There is a great manufac-
ture at CoranadUf 1 m. from here, of
cloth, worn by women of the better
classes.
More important are the temples at
193 UL Eumbhakonam sta. (B.),
D.B., in the Taniore district, pop.
54,000. The pagodas stand near the
centre of the town, and about 1 m. from
the station. The largest pagoda is dedi-
cated to Vishnu, and the Great Gopura
here has eleven stories. Torches are
required in ascending it, as the stone
step are very old, broken and slippery,
and there is no rail to take hold of.
The walls slope inward, and the floors
are of stone, and shake a little with
the tread of visitors. The total height
is not less than 147 ft. From the win-
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398
ROtTTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
India
dows a good view is obtained, bat the
interior of the temple has nothing
remarkable. A street arched over
and 830 ft lon^ and 15 ft. broad,
with shops on eitner side, leads to the
Shiva Pagoda, or Temple of Kumbesh-
wara.
The Mahamokam Tank. — At J m. to
the S.E. of the pagodas is a fine tank,
into which it is said the Ganges flows
once in twelve years, the last occasion
being in 1897. On these occasions
so vast a concourse of people enter
the water to bathe that t>e snrfaoe
rises some inches. The tank has six-
teen small but picturesque pagodas
studding its banks. Tne principal
one is on the N. side of the tank, and
on its ceiling is represented in alto-
relievo the balance m which a certain
Ocvind DichU was weighed againstgold,
which was then given to the Brah-
mans. This worthy is represented
sitting in one scale, while a huge sack
of money fills the other.
The Oovemmmt College at Kumbha-
konam was formerly one of the best
educational institutions in India, and
prociU"ed for the town the distinction of
being called the Cambridge of Southern
India; it has deteriorated somewhat.
There are but few Europeans here.
217 m. TANJOBE June. sta. (R.),
D.B.,30t [Branch 48 m. E. to Negapa-
tarn for Rameswaram, see below]. Pop.
54,000. The delta of the Cauvery
river, near the head of which Tanjore
stands, is considered the garden of
Southern India. It canies a dense
population, and is highly irrigated.
The Tanjore country was under the
Cholasduring the whole of their suprem-
acy. Maratha Venkaji the brother of
Shivajithe Great, reduced Tanjore, pro-
claimed himself independent, and estab-
lished a Maratha dynasty, which lasted
till 1799. The British first came into
contact with Tanjore by their expedi-
tion in 1749, with a view to the restora-
tion of a deposed Raja.
Tanjore was the last capital of the
Chola dynasty. In 1758 it was attacked
by the French under Lally, who ex-
torted large sums from the reigning
Maratha Raja. Col. Joseph Smith
captured the Fort in 1773, and i^ain
in 1776 it was occupied by the Engnaih,
Raja Sharabhoji, by a treaty in 1779,
ceded the de^jenaent territoiy to the
British, retaining only the capital and a
small tract of country around, whidi
also at last lapsed to the Government
in 1855, on the death of the then ruler
without legitimate male issue.
The LUtle Fort contains the Ctreai
Pagoda, which with the palace of the
Raja in the Great Fort and Schwartz's
Church are the sights of Tanjore. The
two Forts of Tanjore, which are much
dismantled, are so connected that they
may be almost regarded as one.
The Great Pagoda. — The entrance is
under a ^opura. Then follow a passage
170 ft. long, and a second gopura of
smaller dimensions. There appear to
be six stones in the outer gopura and
four in the inner, and their height may
be reckoned at about 90 and 60 ft. re-
spectively. There is a long inscription
in Tamil characters of the 4th century
on either side of the passa^ through
the second gopura. After this the outer
enclosure of the pagoda, 415 ft. x 800
ft., is entered. On the rt. is the
YajoMila, a place where sacrifices are
offered, and the Sabhapati Kovil, or
Shrine of Shiva, as the presiding god
of an assembly. There are two Bali-
pirams, or altars, close to the E. wall, one
inside and one outside ; and at about
40 ft. to the W. of this £. wall is a
gimoiiicNandi in black granite, a mono-
lith 12 ft. 10 in. high. W. of this is
the Kodi MaTXLrru A portico supported
by three rows of pillars leads to two
halls 75 ft. X 70 ft. each. In the centre
of the wall of an adjoining passage
is the entrance to the square adytum.
Within this is a second enclosure 56 ft;.
X 54 ft., and over the whole is super-
imposed the vast tower of the vimanah,
200 ft. high, including the Shikr, or
sT>iked ornament. N.E. of the Great
Tower is the Climdikasan Kovil, or
shrine of the god who reports to the
ciiief god tlie arrival of worshippers.
Beyond this, at the N.W. comer of the
outer enclosure, is the StUnnhmanya
Kovil, Shrine of Karttikeya,^ the son of
Shiva and deity of war^ who is called
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 31. DAKJORE
Sabraliinanya (fix)m sw, cood, brahman,
a Brahman), because ne is so good
to Brahmans and their especial pro-
tector.
Fcrgusson sajrs of this wonderfal
shrine that it '* is as exquisite a piece
of decorative architecture as is te be
found in the S. of India, and though
small, almost divides our admiration
with the temple itself." It consists of
a tower 55 ft high, raised on a base
45 ft. squarej adorned with pillars and
pilasters, which ornament is continued
along a corridor 50 ft. long, communi-
cating with a second building 50 ft.
square to the £.
Dr. Bumell considers the Subrah-
manya Temple to be not older than the
commencement of the 16th century.
Its beautiful carving seems to be in
imitation of wood.
The base of the grand temple, i.e,
the vimanah and halls leading to it, is
covered with inscriptions in the old
Tamil of the 11th century, which Dr. .
BnmeU deciphered. The pyramidal
tower over the vimanah has evidently
often been repaired in its upper part,
where the ima^ of gods and demons
with which it is covered are now only
of cement This tower is only 48
ft. lower than the Kutb Minar at
Delhi
Dr. Bumell says in his pamphlet.
The Great Temple of Tanjore: **This
temple is really the most remarkable
of all the temples in the extreme S. of
India ; is one of the oldest ; and as it
has been preserved with little altera-
tion, if not, perhaps, the largest, it is
the best specunen of the style of archi-
tecture peculiar to India S. of Madras.
" This style arose imder the Chola (or
Tanjore) kings in the 11th century a.d.,
when nearly all the great temples to
Shiva in S. India were built, and it con-
tinned in use in the 12th and 18th
centuries, during which the great
temples to Vishnu were erected. Up
to ttie beginning of the 16th century
these temples remained almost un-
changed, but at that time all S. India
became subject to the kings of Vija-
yanagar, and one of these, named Erish-
narsya (1509-30), rebuilt or added to
most of the great temples of the S.
The chief feature of the architecture of
this later period ia the construction of
the enormous gopuras which are so
conspicuous at Conjeveram, Chidam-
baram, and Seringham. All these
were built by Erisnnaraya ; they do
not form part of the original style, but
were intended as fortifications to pro-
tect the shrines from foreign invaders,
and certain plunder and desecration,
as the Hindus first discovered on the
Mohammedan invasion of 1310 A.D.'*
The Palace of the Princess of Tan-
jore. —This building is in the Great Fort
The entrance is in the E. wall, f m.
from the rly. sta. There is a masonry
bridge over the first ditch, which is
there about 100 ft broad. The palace
is a vast building of masonry, and
stands on the left of the street, which
runs northward through the Fort ; it
was built about 1550 a.d. After pass-
ing through two quadrangles a third
is entered, on the S. side of which
is a building like a gopura, 90 ft.
high, with eight stories. It was once
an armoury. Mr. Fergusson says of
this tower : * * As you approach Tanjore,
you see two peat vimanahs not unlike
each other m dimensions or outline,
and at a distance can hardly distinguish
which belongs to the great temple.
On close inspection, however, that of
the palace turns out to be made up of
dumpy pilasters and fat balusters, and
ill-designed mouldings of Italian archi-
tecture, mixed up with a few details of
Indian art ! a more curious and taste-
less jumble could hardly be found in
Calcutta or Lucknow. " On the E. of the
quadrangle is the Teltigu Darhar-room,
Here is a platform of black ^nite.
On the sides are sculptured m alto-
relievo Surs and Asurs fighting. On
this platform stands a white marble
statue of Sharfoji, the pupil of Schwartz,
and the last R^a but one. He is
standing with the palms of his hands
joined as if in prayer, and he wears the
curious triangular pointed cap used by
the Tanjore princes in the last half cen-
tury of theur rule. The statue is by
Flaxman, and is a good specimen of
that peat artist's work. On the wall
is a picture of Lord Pigot.
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ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
IndiA
There are also numerous pictures of
the B^'as. In the same quadrangle is
the Library f in which is a remarkable
collection of 18,CM)0 Sanscrit MSS., of
which 8000 are written on j»lm leaves.
This library is unique, and in India, at
least, nothing at au equal to it is to be
found as regaras Sanscrit : it dates from
the end of the 16th or beginning of the
17th century. After this the visitor
may go to tne MarcUha Darbar^ which
is in another quadran|^le. Here is a
large picture of Shivaji, the last Raja,
with his chief secietary on his right,
and lus Diwan on his left. Remark
also a fine bust of Nelson, presented to
the Raja by the Hon. Anne Seymour
Darner, whose work it is.
SchvxMrtz*8 Church is in the Little
Fort, close to the Shivagan^ Tank.
Over the gate is the date 1777, and
over the facade of its church is 1779
A.D. In the centre, opposite the com-
munion-table, is a very fine group of
figures in white marble, by Flazman,
representing the death of Schwartz.
The aged missionary is extended on
his bed, and on his left stands the Ri^a
Sharfoji, his pupil, with two attendants,
while on lus right is the missionary
Eohlner, and near the bottom of the
bed are four boys. The inscription
contains a summary of his career. The
small house N.W. of the church, and
close to it, is said to have been Schwartz's
habitation.
Next to the Shivaganga Tank is the
People* 8 Park, In the English Church
there is a handsome tablet to Schwartz,
and in the cemetery adjoining Lord
Hastings was buried.
Tanjore district was the scene of the
earliest labours of Protestant mission-
aries in India. In 1706 the German
missionaries Ziegenbalg and Plutschau
established a Lutheran mission in the
Danish settlement of Tranauebar, under
the patronage of King Frederick IV. of
Denmark ; and in 1841 their establish-
ments were taken over b^ the Leipzig
Evangelical Lutheran Mission, which
subsequently extended its operations
into the district. The mission at
Tanjore was founded in 1778 by the
R^v. 0. F. Schwartz of the Tranauebar
Mission, who some time previously had
transferred his services to the Society
for Promoting Christian Knowledga
The mission establishments at TaBijon
were taken over in 1826 by the Society
for the Propagation of the Gospel,
which subsequently founded new sta-
tions in several parts of the district
Roman Catholic missions in Tanjore
date from the first half of the 17th
century. Their churches and cha^
are scattered over the whole distnct,
but their principal seatsare Negapatam,
Velanganni (on the coast, 6 m. souA
of Neffapatam), Tanjore, Vallam, and
Kumbhakonam. The St Joseph's
College, which was founded in 184«
by the French Jesuits at Ne^patam,
was removed to Trichinopoty m 1883.
Taiyore is famous for its artistic
manuractures, including silk carpets,
jewellery, r&poussi wor^ copper ware,
and curious models in pith and other
materials.
[Negapatam (R.) 48 m. E. from
Tamjore on branch line. A flourishing
port on the Coromandel Coast doing i
brisk trade with the Straits Settlements
and Coast Ports. Contains the laroe
Workshops of the South Indian Bui
way. Negapatam was one of the
earliest Settlements of the Portuguese.
It was taken by the Dutch in 1660 and
by the English in 1781. From Ncgi-
rtam steamers belonging to the B. I.
N. Company run once a week to
Colombo md PaSk Strait and Piumben,
which is on the. mainland opposite
Bameswaram, a low sandy island is
the narrow straits between Cevlon and
India, containing one of the moA
venerated Hindu Shrines in Indi^
founded according to tradition ^
Riuna himself. It is associated wit
Rama's journey to Ceylon in sesrcb i
Sita, and plays an important part I
the BamayaiuL, For centuries til
temple has been the object of pil^
ages from all parts of India. It is I
their control of the passage from tl
mainland that the Cniefs of BanuK
owe their hereditary title of Setopal
** Lord of the Causeway."
The island is to a great extel
covered with lahlU (Acada araHi
trees. It is principally inhabited 1
Brahmans and their followers, who i
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ROUTE 31. TRICHINOPOLY
401
supported by the profits derived from
the temples. Soutn of the great temple
is a fresh-water lake, about three miles
in circnmference.
The great Temple stands on rising
ground in the northern part of the
islandi in a quadrangular enclosure
657 feet broad by about 1000 feet
long, and is entered by a gateway 100
feet high. The height of the temple
is about 120 feet. With its majestic
towers, its vast and gloomy colonnades,
and its walls encrusted with carved
work and statuary, it is a grand
example of the Dravidian style. The
best and oldest portion is built of a
dark, hard limestone, to which there is
nothing similar in the rest of the build-
ing. Local tradition asserts that it
was erected by the Vara Raja, Sekkarar,
of Kandy, with stone cut and polished
in Ceylon. Its cost is said to have
been defrayed by the seaport dues
of all the coast towns of the estate,
during the year that it was building.
Note the massiveness of the workman-
ship (slabs of 40 feet long being used
in the doorways and ceilings), and the
wonderful pillared halls which sur-
round the inner shrine.
Ferpisson says, " If it were proposed
to sewct one temple which should
exhibit all the beauties of the Dravidian
style in their ^eaitest perfection, and
at the same time exemplify all its
characteristic defects of design, the
choice would almost inevitably fall
upon that at Rameswaram. In no
other temple has the same amount of
patient industry been exhibited as
here; and in none, unfortunately,
has that labour been so thrown away
^r want of a design appropriate to its
display. While the temple at Tanjore
produces an effect greater than is due
to its mass or detail, this one, with
double its dimensions and ten times
its elaboration, produces no effect ex-
ternally, and internally can only be
wen in detail, so that the parts hardly
in any instance aid one another in pro-
ducing the effect aimed at.
"The glory of the temple is in its
corridors. These extend to a total
length of nearly 4,000 feet. Their
breadth varies from 20 feet to 30 feet
[India^
of free floor space, and their height is
apparently about 30 feet from the floor
to the centre of the roof. Each pillar
or pier is compound, and richer and
more elaborate in design than those of
the parvati porch at Chidambaram,
and certainly more modem in date.
" None of our English cathedrals are
more than 500 feet long, and even the
nave of St. Peter's is only 600 feet
from the door to the apse. Here the
side corridors are 700 feet long and
open into transverse galleries as rich
in detail as themselves. These, with
the varied devices and modes of light-
ing, produce an effect that is not
equalled certainly anywhere in India."
The temple, its ceremonies, and its
attendant Brahmins are maintained
from the revenue of 67 villages, yield-
ing an annual income of about £4500,
granted by former Rajas of the Ramnad
ZeTninddH. The lingam is supposed
to have been placed here by Rama ; it
is washed with Ganges water, which is
afterwards sold.]
248 m. Trlchinopoly junc. sta. (R.)
lOc (branch W. to Erode, Rte. 30),
D. B. Pop. 91,000. St. John's Church
is close to the station. The two
historic masses of granite, the Golden
Rock and the Fakir's Rock, are in the
plain to the S. Close to the former is
the Central Jail. Near it the French
were defeated in two engagements.
251 m. Trichinopoly Fort sta. on
the Brode Branch, which runs 87 m.
to the N.W., and joins the Madras
Railway at Erode. The Fort has been
dismantled, but this part of the town
is still known as "the Fort."
In November 1753 the French made
a night attack on the Fort, and succeeded
in entering the outer line of fortifica-
tions at Dalton's Battery at the N.W.
angle. Here there was a pit 30 ft. deep,
into which many of the assailants fell.
Their screams alarmed the garrison, vho
repelled them, and made 360 of the
French prisoners. This portion of the
Old Fort is all that has been left
standing. The moat that surrounded
it has been filled in and planted as a
boulevard.
On the N. side of the town, with a
temple on it, is the Bock. The
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402
ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
India
entrance to the covered passage which
leads up to the top la on the S.
side, and on the sides of the passage
are stone elephants and pillars about
18 ft. high, which bear the stamp
of Jain architecture. The pillars have
carved capitals representing the lion
of the S., and various figures of men
and women. The frieze above is orna-
mented with carvings of animals.
Flights of very steep steps, 290 in
number, coloured white with red
stripes, lead through this passage
to the vestibule of a Shivite temple,
whence on certain days the images of
the gods — viz. of Shiva, Parbati,
GaneSi, and Subrahmanya, or Skanda
— are carried in procession. There is a
huge Nandi Bull covered with silver
plates, which must be very valuable.
The steps of the ascent were the scene
of a frightful disaster in 1849. A vast
crowdhad assembled to worship Ganesh,
who is here ciJled Pilliar, or " the son."
A panic arose, and in the crush which
ensued 500 people were killed. Other
staircases in the £. portion of the Rock
lead to a mandapam, or pavilion,
whence, as well as from the rocky
platform itself, there is one of the
finest panoramic views to be seen in
the plains of India. On all sides
the eye traverses the plain for 20 or
80 m. The height of the Rock is
only 286 ft., but the plain is so flat
that this height is sufficient to domin-
ate a vast expanse of country. On
the S. the mc«t conspicuous object is
the Golden Bock, about 100 ft. high.
At the foot of it, to the W., is the
Central Jail, Within the town, distant
only a few hundred yards, is the
Nawab's Palace, which has been restored
by Grovemment and is used for courts
and public offices. Carrying the eye to
the S.E. of this rock, a patch of low
hills is seen, the highest not being above
40 ft. This is French Bocks, about 2 m.
from the Fort. To the N. of the Fort
Rock is the broad shallow bed of the
Cauvery, in which, except in the rains,
there is but a narrow streak of water.
Beyond is the Island of Seringhmn,
which the French occupied for several
years, taking up their quarters in the
two great temples, that of Servngham
to the W., and that of Jambukeshwar
to the E. The island is 17 m. long by
about 1} m. broad, and Serii^an
temple is 5 m. from the W. extremity,
but owin^ to dense groves the temples
are not distinctly seen. Beyond to the
N. in the far distance rises a long line
of hills. To the N.W. is the Talc
Malai range, the greatest height of
which is 1800 ft. ; while due N. of the
Fort Rock are the Kale Malai Hills,
which attain 4000 ft. ; and E. of these
are the Pach^ Malais, which in some
parts rise to 2300 ft. Turning to tiie
W. the old town of Wariur is seen,
where there was once a cantonment
At the foot of the Fort Rock is a hand-
some Teppa Eulam tank with stone
steps and a mandapam, or temple, in
the centre. At the S.E. comer of this
tank are a square comer -house, and I
adjoining a house with a porch. In I
one of these Clive lived, but it is not |
certain in which.
The JaiL — ^Trichinopoly Central Jail
is one of the largest in the Madras
Presidency. It stands well on rising
ground about 2 m. S. of St. John's
Church, with a hill popularly cailled
the Golden Rock about 400 vds.
from its N.E. comer. An order mm
the superintendent is required to viat
the jail.
Other obiects of interest are the Ba^
at the Judffe's Court in which JBishcp
Heber ^ died— -the spot is marked by a
tablet erected by the €k)vemment of
Madras — ^and Chanda SdhiVs Tomb, ai
the shrine of NaJUtr Aulicu This latter
appears to be built from materiak of
Hindu temples, and may date from
the invasion of Malik Eafor in 1310.
There are an S.P.G. College and i
Jesuit College here.
The most important local Induatria
are weaving, and tobacco and agar
making. The cigars are weU known.
though the so-called Triehinopolj
cheroots come for the most part frcn
Dindigal. The silver and gold maim-
faotures are famous ; the local gold and
silver smiths being very suecesRful ii
their nligree-work.
About 2 m. N. from the Rock, <m a
1 See his JAft by Dr. George Smith (189ft
chap. xiii.
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ROUTE 31. TRICHINOPOLY
403
kland formed by a bifurcation of the
river Cauvery, is the town of Sering-
ham (20,000 inhab.) A bridge of
32 arches joins the mainland to the
island.
The Great Temple of Sri Bangam
is about 1 m. N. W. of the bridge.
The entrance fix>m Trichinopoly is on
the S. side of the temple, by a grand
gateway, which appears to have been
built as the base of a great gopura.
This gateway is 48 ft. high from the
ground to its terraced rooL The sides
of the passage are lined with pilasters,
and ornamented. The passage is about
100 ft. long, and the inner height, ex-
clusive of the roof, is 43 ft. Vast mono-
liths have been used as uprights in the
oonstruction, some of them over 40 ft.
high. The stones on the roof laid hori-
zontally are also vast. The stone on the
inside of the arch is 29 ft. 7 in. long,
4 ft. 5 in. broad, and about 8 ft. thicK.
There are two pilasters in the gateway,
with an inscription in Tamil characters.
From the terrace at the top of the gate-
way is seen the vast outer wall which
encloses the gardens as well as the build-
ing of this the largest temple in India.
This outer enclosure, 2475 ft. x 2880 ft.,
contains a bazaar. Within this is a
second wall 20 ft. high enclosing the
dwellings of the Brahmans in the service
of the temple. The general desi^ is
marred by the fact thisit the buildings
diminish in size and importance from
the exterior to the innermost enclosure ;
and Fergusson says, ^' If its principle
of design could be reversed, it would be
one of the finest temples in the S. of
India." There are two great gopuras
on the E. side, two smaller on ttie W.,
and three of a medium height on the S.
Advancing from the Trichinopoly side,
the traveller passes under a small
mandapam, and then through a gopura
abont 60 ft. high. The ceilings of the
gopuras are all painted, and the ceiling
of this one represents the Varahah, or
Boar Incarnation, of Vishnu, as well
as other Avataras with multitudes of
human beings adoring them. The
colours are well preserv^ After this a
second mandapam is passed under and
a second and third gopura. Hard by
is another enclosing wall, which sur-
rounds the more sacred part, or real
temple, beyond which is the vimanah,
or adytum, which none but Hindus
are allowed to enter.
At a third mandapam the jewels of
the temple may be examined. Observe
three ornaments called Venkalatha
Padukam, of which two are of diamonds
and emeralds, and the third of diamonds
and rubies. One of these is valued
at 35,000 rs. There are also several
coverings for the hands and feet of
idols of gold studded with jewels, as
well as large rings for the toes. Ob-
serve too chains of gold of local manu-
facture, which are as flexible as string,
and a golden bowl said to be worth
11,600 rs. There are also chains of
gold, 5-franc pieces, and others of gold
5-rupee pieces.
In the court round the central en-
closure is the so-called Hall of 1000
Pillars, (Fer^sson counted 960, but
the number is now much reduced.)
They are granite monoliths 18 ft. high,
with pediments, slightly carved to the
height of 3 ft., and they all have the
plantain bracket at top. The pillars
of the front row looking N. represent
men on rearing horses spearing ti^i-s,
the horses* feet su^jported by the shields
of men on foot beside them. After this
the great gopura which is on the N. may
be visited; The total height is 152 ft.
In the floor of the passage under this
gopura is a stone with a Eanarese in-
scription. With the exception of the
pillars with supporters carved in the
shape of horsemen, there is nothing
that can be called interesting. The
gopuras are clumsily built, and, not-
withstanding their enormous bulk,
shake with l£e steps of a few men. Mr.
Fergusson is of opinion that the build-
ing was commenced about 1700 a.d.^
A Mela (religious fair) is held here
every winter.
Temple of Jambukeshwar. — In the
S. of India temples are often found in
pairs. If there is one dedicated to
Vishnu, there will be one dedicated to
Shiva. So here, at about 1 J m. from
the Great Temple of Seringham, is a
smaller one sacred to Jambukeshwar,
1 See his Ind. Archit, where there is an
illustration and description of the temples.
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404
ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNBVELLY
India
or Shiva, from Jcmbuka, * * rose-apple, "
and ishwar "lord," or Lord of India,
Jamba being a division of the world,
"India," and Ishwar, "deity."
The Jambokeshwar temple has three
oourts, is very much smaller than that
of Seringham, and has now a neglected,
deserted look. The plan, however, of
the building is more artistic, and the
main corridor and proportions are fine.
On the right of the entrance is an
upright stone 4 ft. high, with a lon^
Tamil inscription. The first gopura is
also 'the gateway of entrance. The
ceiling is paintea with flowers of the
lotus. Within the inner court is a
remarkable Tep^M Kulam, or tank, of
spring water with a pavilion in tho
centre. Round the S., the E., and
the N. sides runs a corridor of two
stories supported by pillars. Beyond
this is a second gopura, and a third
which forms part of the wall enclosing
the adytum. Thence a fine corridor
leads to the vimanah. On the whole,
this is a very fine Temple, and well
worth a visit. It is, no doubt, older
than that of Seringham, probably about
1600.
The Anikuts, or dams. — ^The Cauvery,
about 9 m. to the W. of Trichinopoly,
and a Uttle to the W. of the W.
extremity of Seringham island, separ-
ates into two branches which enclose
the island, the N. branch being called
the Coleroon or Koliduny and the S.
the Cauvery. It had long been observed
that the 1^ channel was deepening and
the S. becoming more and more shallow,
and lest the Tanjore Collectorate should
thus be deprived of water sufficient for
irrigation, a dam was constructed across
the Coleroon in 1886. In June the
S.W. monsoon causes the Cauvery to
swell, and in July and August it be-
comes a mighty river, and dwindles to
a small stream in September and Oc-
tober, rising again in November with
the N.E. monsoon. After parting with
the Coleroon, it sends off a number of
branches which irriffata Tanjore, the
chief one being oallea the Yennar, and
then falls into the sea 20 m. S. of the
spot where the Coleroon disembomies.
The Upper Anikut constructed by
Colonel Cotton has been completely
successful in preventing an excess of
water entering the Coleroon. It con-
sists of three parts, being broken by two
islands. It is a brick wall 7 ft high
and 6 ft. thick, capped with stone, and
is based on two rows of walls sunk 9
ft. below the river's bed. It is de-
fended by an apron of cut stone firom
21 to 40 ft. broad. There are twenU^-
four sluices, which help to scour toe
bed. It influences the irrigation of
about 600,000 acres. About 9 m. E.
of Trichinopoly is th&^rand Anikut,
an ancient work, and below that is the
Lower Anikut, built in 1836. It
supplies the Yiranam tank in S. Arcot
and waters the taluks of Chidambaram
and Manargudi in that Collectorate.
3 m. S.W. of Trichinopoly is the
fortified pagoda which was occupied by
the French in 1753, and recaptured l^
the British under Major Lawrence.
The place is highly interesting, and
much remains to be discorered about
its history.
806 m. Dindigal sta. (R.), a muni-
cipal town (14,000 inhab.) in the larw
Collectorate of Madura and the head-
quarters of a Sub-Collector. It also has
a considerable tobacco manufiiotuTC.
The climate is cooler and more healthy
than that of Madura. The great
rock on which the fort is built forms
a conspicuous obiect from the rail-
way, and is worth a visit. It rises
from the midst of a low -lying plam,
richly cultivated with various crops,
and stands quite isolated. The summit |
is 1223 ft. above sea-level, 280 ft above I
the plain. Its lofty precipitous and '
inaccessible sides were strongly fortified |
under the first Navakkan kic^ if not i
before ; and for a long time it was the '
key of the province of Madura on the |
W. Dindijgal was taken by the British ,
from Tipu in 1781, and restored to him J
in 1784, but finally ceded to the Britisi
in 1792.
319 m. Ammayanayakairar sts
From this point may be made an
[Excv/rsion to the Palney or Paid
Hills. — This journey requires spedil
arrangements. The distance to Eodil^
kanal is 48 m. by road. This statiol
enj oys a growing popularity. It is 72(H
fL above sea-level. The climate il
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ROUTE 31. MADURA
405
milder and more even than that of
Ootacamund. The pop. is 1000. The
site is not well chosen as regards scenery,
but there are places where the views of
the low country and the Animalei Hills
to the "W. are beautiful past description.
The sportsman will find bison, tigers,
E anthers, bears, the wild dogs, w-nich
ant in packs, and sambar. There
are also florican and woodcock. Nut-
meg, cinnamon, and pepper- vine grow
wild. Coffee, orange trees, lime trees,
citron, and sag(J are cultivated.]
844m.Madiira8ta. (R.),D.B.a«c(pop.
87,000) upon the Faigai river was the
capital of the old Pandyan kingdom.
The Palace of Tirumala Nayak is IJ
m. W. of the rly. sta. This prince was
the greatest of all the rulers of Madura
in modem times. He succeeded Muttu
Virappa in 1623, and reigned gloriously
thirty -six years. The palace, whicn
looks modem, and has pulars of rough
granite cased with cement supporting
scalloped arches, has been restored and
is utilised for public offices. The
entrance to it is on the E. side, by a
granite portico built in honour of Lord
Napier and Ettrick, who first ordered
the restoration. At each comer of the
E. face of the palace is a low tower.
The Napier Gateway gives access to a
cmadrangle 252x151 ft. On the E.,
N., and S. sides is a corridor, the roof
supported by arches resting on granite
pillars. On the "W. side the corridor
18 double, and is 67 ft. broad. The
W. side is occupied by a lofty hall :
on one of the stones of the staircase
which leads up to it there is a Tamil in-
scription. Passing from the staircase
to a corridor 25 ft. broad, a court under
the Grand Dome, which was the throne-
room, is reached. It is 61 ft. in diameter,
and 73 ft. high. Outside round the dome
are galleries where the ladies in Tiru-
mala's time sat and watched the state
receptions. To the W. of the grand
dome is another domed chamber, used
for the Collector's records and treasury.
N. and S. of the grand dome are
smaller ones. That on the S. has
been completely restored, while that
on the N. is untouched, and affords
a good means for comparing the old
colouring with the restored. Pass-
ing N., to the W. of this is an apart-
ment 54 ft. high called Tirumala's bed-
room. There were four holes in the
middle of the roof, two on either side,
and between the two on the S. side was
a large open hole. There is a legend
that Tirumala's cot was suspended from
hooks fixed in the four holes, and that
the large hole between the two S. holes
was made by a thief who descended
from it by the chain supporting that
comer of the cot, and stole the crown
jewels. Tirumala is said to have offered
an hereditary estate to the thief, if he
would restore the jewels, adding that
no questions would be asked. On re-
covering the jewels he kept his word,
but ordered the man to be decapitated.
At the S. W. comer of the building is
a staircase leading to the roof, whence
a view over Madura may be had. Close
to the foot of this staircase is a door
leading into the Magistrate's Court,
which is perhaps the most elegant part
of the palace, and has been completely
restored. On the S. side of it are two
black basaltic pillars, monoliths 18 ft.
high. This old palace now forms one
of the finest public buildings in India.
The English Churchy designed by
Mr. Chisholm, C.E., and built at the
expense of Mr. Fischer, a former well-
known resident at Madura, stands in
an open space in the middle of the town
S. W. of the Great Temple.
On the further side of the river
Vaigai, N. of the city, and about 1
m. from the bridge (recently com-
pleted), is a building called the Tarn-
%am, built by Tirumala for exhibiting
fights between wild beasts and gladi-
ators, but now the Collector's house.
The Great Temple (about 1 m. W.
of rly. sta.) forms a parallelogram
about 847 ft. x729 ft., surrounded by
9 gopuras, of which the largest is 152
ft. high. We are certain that all the
most beautiful portions of the temple
as it now stands were built by Timmala
Nayak in the first half or the 17th
century. Some of the carving is superb,
and is said to be the finest in S. India.
It consists of two parts — on the E. a
temple to Minaksh% "the fish -eyed
goddess, " the consort of Shiva ; and one
to Shiva, here called Sundareshtoar,
406
ROUTE 31. MADRAS TO TINNEVELLY
Indu%
on the W. side. The entrance is by
the ^te of Minakshi's Temple, through
a painted corridor about 80 ft long,
whioh is called the Hall of the Ei^ht
Lakshmis, from eight statues of that
goddess which form the supports of
the roof on either side, where various
dealers ply their trade. On the right
of the gateway is an image of Subrah-
manya, one of Shiva's sons, otherwise
caUed Skanda or Karttikeya, the Hindu
Mars. On the left is an image of
Ganesh. The gateway leads to a stone
corridor with rows of pillars on either
side. The corridor before passing the
gateway is called the AsfUa Laxshmi
MandapaTTif and this second corridor
the Minakshi Nayakka Mandapcmi^
having been built by Minakshi Nayak,
Diwan of a ruler who preceded Tirumala.
Some of the pillars of the temple have
for capitals the curved plantam-flower
bracket so general at Y^ayans^r.
This is said by some to be the Hindu
cornucopia. At the end of one of the
corridors, 166 ft long, is a large door
of brass, which has stands to hold
many lamps that are lighted at night.
A dark corridor under a small gopura
ends in one broader, with more light,
which has three figures on either side
carved with spirit
Close by ifi a quadrangle with a Teppa
Kulam, This tank is called Stoama-
ptLshpa-karini or Pairamarai, "Tank
of the Golden Lilies." Observe here a
little chamber built by Queen Man-
gammal, who was seized and starved to
death by her subjects about 1706 A.D.,
food being placed so near that she could
see and smell but not touch it A
statue of her lover, the Brahman
Achchaya, may be seen on the "W. side
of the tank, and on the ceiling there is
his portrait opposite to one of the Queen.
Round the tank runs an arcade. On
the N. and E. sides the walls of this
corridor are painted with the repre-
sentations of the most famous pagodas
in India : from the S. side a very good
view is obtained of the different towers
of the gopuras. On the N.W. side is
the belfry, with an American bell of
fine tone. The corridor is adorned with
twelve very spirited figures, whioh form
Xiillars on either side, six of them being
the Yali, a name given to a strange
monster which is the convenUonal lion
of the S. Sometimes he is represrated
with a long snout or probosois. These
are so arranged that between every two
of them is a figure of one of the five
Pandu brothers. First on the rij§^ht is
Yudhishthir, and opposite to him on
the left is Aijuna with his famous bow.
Then come Sahadeva on the right, attd
Nakula on the left. Then follows
Bhima on the right with his dub, and
opposite to him, on the left, is the
shrine of the jgoddess, and the figure of
a Dwarpal. The visitor next passes K.
from the Minakshi Temple into that of
Sundareshwar, by the Sangeli Manda-
pam. Eight steps are ascended into
the AruvaUi MuraTy the Temple cf the
BishiSy a small chamber on the S. side
of Sundareshwar*8 Temple, in which are
a very large number of statues of Hinda
saints and gods, too numerous to specify.
S.E. of the groups of statues are the
chambers where the Yahanas, or vehi-
cles, of Minakshi and Sundareshwar
are kept. They are plated with gold.
There are two golden palkis, or litters,
worth 10,000 rs. each, and two with
rods to support canopies, worth 12,000 rs.
each. There are also vehicles plated
with silver, such as a Bdnsa, or " goose,"
a Nomdit or ' * bull. " Those who desire
to see the jewels kept here must give
notice a day or two previously.
The visitor will now pass on the N.
side — ^the most interesung feature of
the temple — the Sahaarastambha Meat-
dapam, or Hall of 1000 PUlan. There
are in fact 997, but many are hid from
view, as the intervals between them
have been bricked up to form granaries
for the pagoda. "There is a sm^ shrine
dedicated to the goddess Minakshi (the
fish -eyed), the tutelary deity of the
place, which occupies the spaoe of 15
columns, so the real number is only 985;
but it is not their number but their
marvellous elaboration that makes it
the wonder of the place, and makes it
in some respects m(n« remarkable than
the choultne (see below) about which
so much has been said and written"
(Fergusson). This hall, whose scolp*
tures surpass those of any other hall of
its class, was built by Arianayakkam
d by Google
ROUTE 32. MADttRA — *INiJEVELLt
401
Madali, Minister of the Founder of
the dynasty of the Nayakkas. His
^ure stands on the left of the entrance.
He is represented sitting gracefully on
a rearing horse. In the row behind
him are some spirited figures of men
and women, or male and female deities
dancing. The Grectt Gopura is on the
£. side about 50 yds. to the S. of the
1000-pillared Hall.
E. of the pagoda is the Piidu Manda-
pam, or New Gallery, known as Tiru-
mala's (Moultrie, and built by him
for the presiding deity of the place,
I ^yoj-^H y»T« f^yy
f......±lj*..
Plan of Tirumala's Choultrie.
Sundareshwar, who paid him a visit of
10 days annually. This, had it been
finished, would have surpassed in magni-
ficence all the other buildings of this
monarch ; and as the date of its con-
stmction is known, it forms a fixed
point in the chronology of the style.
The hall has four rows of pillars sup-
porting a flat roof, and on either -side
of the centre corridor five pillars repre-
sent ten of the Nayakkan dynasty.
Tununala is distinguished by having a
canopy over him and two figures at
his back ; the figure on the left being
his wife, the Princess of Tanjore. On
the left of the doorway is a singular
group, representing one of the Nayaks
shooting a wild boar and sows, accord-
ing to the legend, which says that
SMva commiserated the litter of little
pigs, took them up in his arms, and
assuming the shape of the sow, suckled
them. A portly figure, either that of
Shiva or the Nayak, is seen holding
up the dozen little pigs. This Hall was
erected 1623-45, and is said to have
cost a million sterling.
3 m. K of the station and N. of the
Yai^i river is a fine Teppa Kulam. The
fashionable drive of Madura is round
this tank, which is fenced with stone,
and has a temple in the centre.
Great Banyan Tree, — In the com-
pound of the judge's house, close to the
tank, is a fine specimen of the Ficas
zTidica. The main stem has been much
mutilated, but is still 70 ft. in circum-
ference. The ground shaded by this
tree has a diameter of 180 ft. in what-
ever direction it is measured.
425 m. Hanisrachi June. sta. Here
the line bifui'cates to Tuticorin (18 m.)
and Tinnevelly. For Tuticorin see
p. 371.
443 m. Tfnnevelly terminus sta.,
on the left bank of the Tambrapumi
river, and li m. from it. It is 2J m.
from Palamcotta. A bridge of eleven
arches of 60 ft. span each, erected by
Sulochenam Mudeliar, crosses thestream
and connects the two places.
Tinnevelly is now the most Christian
district in India. The S.P.G. and the
C.M.S., estab. 1820, have important
and flourishing stations here, and at
Palamcotta, 3^ m. distant, as have also
the Jesuits. It was here that St. Francis
Xavier began his preaching in India.
The Temple at Tinnevelly, though, as
408
ROUTE 32. MADRAS (TO THE SEVfiN PAGODAS
India
Fergusson says (pp. 366-7), "neither
amoD^ the lai^gest nor the most splendid
of S. India, has the advantage ofnaving
been built on one plan, and at one
time, without subsequent alteration or
chai^." It is, like the templeat Madura,
divided into two parts, of which the
S. half is dedicated to Parbati, the
consort of Shiva, and the N. to Shiva
himself. There are three gateways, or
gopuras, to either half, those on tne E.
bem^ the principal, and having porches
outside them. After entermg, you
have in front an internal porch of large
dimensions, on the right of which is a
Teppa Kulain, and on the left a 1000-
piUared hall, which runs nearly the
whole breadth of the enclosure, and is
63 ft. broad. There are 100 rows of
pillars 10 deep. The sole entrance is
on the E. face. The temple is deserving
of a visit, and can easily be reached, as
Tinnevelly is but little out of the
way of a traveller going to visit Tuti-
Palamcotta, 3^ m. E. of Tinnevelly,
is a municipal town and the adminis-
trative headquarters, with a pop. of
18,000, of whom 2000 are Christians,
and is within an easy drive from Tinne-
velly. The old fort has been demol-
ished.
Between the bridge over the Tambra-
pumi and the fort stands the church
of the C.M.S., the spire of which is
110 ft. high. The C.M.S. have several
schools here. A road to the beautiful
waterfalls of Kutallam and Papanasham
passes through Palamcotta and Tin-
nevelly.
38 m. N.W. of Tinnevelly is Kutal-
lam, much resorted to by European
residents. It is not elevated, but the
S.W. winds pass over it through a
chasm in the W. ghats, and bring with
them coolness and moisture, so that the
temperature of this favoured spot is from
10** to 15" lower than that of the arid
plains beyond. The place is particularly
enjoyable in June, July, and August.
Close to the bungalows there are tnree
falls in the channel of the Sylar river.
The lowest cataract falls from a height
of 200 ft. , but is broken midway. The
average temperature of the water
is from 72^* to 75* F., and invalids
derive great benefit from bathing in
it. The bathing-place is under a fine
shelving rock, which affords the most
delightral shower-bath possible. The
scenery is strikingly picturesque, being
a happy mixture of bold rocks and
umbrageous woods.
From Palamcotta to Papanasham
{Papa "sin," nasham "efl&tcing'*) is 29
m. Here, near a pagoda, the Tambra-
Eumi river takes its last fall fit)m the
ills to the level country. The height
is only 80 ft., but the body of water is
greater than at Kutallanu
ROUTE 32
Madras to the Seven Pagodas
A highly interesting expedition from
Madras is to Hahabalipar, D.B. {the
city of great Bali), or the Sey«a
Pagodiu, one of the most remarkable
places in India.
It is about 35 m. S., 6 of whidi can
be done in a carriage to Quindy Bridge,
where the Buckingham Canal isreached.
A boat must be engaged beforehand,
at a cost of about 7 rs. If more than
one person is going, another boat must
be engaged for the servants. The
boatmen tow the boat or scull it with
a large stem-oar, and the whole distance
is done in from tweWe to fourteen
hours. The journey may be made by
night both ways, as the accommodatioii
at Mahabalipur is not vepr good, the
D.B. being without provisions. Hie
cuial goes as far as Sadras, whidi
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 32. MAHABALIPUR
409
is between 2 and 3 m. S. of Maha-
bftlipnr. On the left bank of the
canal, to the £. of it, and between
it and the sea, are the excavations
and carvings in the rock which have
rendered the place so famous. Hunter
says: "The antiquities of the place
may be divided into three groups (1)
the five roths to the S. of the village ;
(2) the cave-temples, monolithic figures,
carvings, and sculptures W. of the
village ; (3) the more modem temples
of Vishnu and Shiva, the latter washed
by the sea. " To these two temples and
five others buried (according to tradi-
tion) under the sea, the place owes its
English name.
'file boat should stop opposite BcUi-
Tpiihcmty a small village, naving the
village of Saluvan Kuppan, or "toddy-
gatherers'^ village," about IJ m. to
the N., where is the curious Tiger
Cave, and the large village of Maha-
balipur to the S. and E. The dis-
tance between the canal and the
sea is \\ m., and from 1 m. S. of
Saluvan Kuppan to 4 m. S. of it there
are a great number of curious excava-
tions and carvings. After landing
opposite Balipitham, follow the road
straight for about J m., when you
come to a hamlet, called Pillaiyan
Kovil, where is a group of monkeys,
admirably carved, the size of the large
baboon. The male is sitting behind
the female, and is busv removing
vermin from her hair. She sits with
her back to him, and is suckling a
yoimg one. At 200 yds. farther on a
chonltrie is passed — a rest-house for
natives. It is on the left going to-
wards the sea, as are also eight stone
figures, at about 30 yds. from it. The
centre fi^re represents the ffoddess
Durga, with her right leg on her left
knee, and four female attendants on
her left hand, and three on her right
hand. 10 yds. in front of this group
is a highly polished black pillar, 4 ft.
6 in. high, a Linffam with the curious
curved mark, ana 5 yds. in front of it
is a Kandi, or Shiva's bull, fallen on its
side. After this you entor deep sand,
1 "Toddy" is the fermented sap of the
cocoa-nat and other palm trees, used as an
intoxicant by the natives.
and pass a good many huts on the
right, and a fishing - village on the
lert; and so, after a walk of in all
about H m., the shore tomple is
reached. It is on the edge of the sea,
and is dedicated, first, to Maha Bali
Chakravartti, and, secondly, to Shiva.
It stands in an enclosure, which was
at one time surrounded by a cranito
wall, but now only debris remam and
two uprights where the gate wiw. The
Eorch or outer room on the N. side
as a large slab in the centre of the
wall opposite the door, with Shiva and
Parbati in alto-relievo upon it. In the
centre of the E. wall is a figure with
eight arms, which the guides say is an
attendant on Bali. In the inner part
is a fallen Lingam. On the slab
facing the door Shiva and Parbati are
represented in alto-relievo. This cham-
ber is 17 ft. high, and 9 ft. sq. The
E. portal of the temple is on the brii^
of the surf, and about 10 ft. above the
sea, and right in front, on a rock 75 ft.
distant, is the Dhwaja starribh/i, ** flag-
pillar, " oxDipa stamiha, "lamp pillar, "
of granite, and now only 18 ft. high,
but which, before it was broken, was
probably 35 ft. high. It is difficult
to reach this pillar, even in calm
weather. In a vestibule at the W.
side of the temple is a recumbent
figure of Vishnu, 10 ft. 10 in. long.
Iiie guides say it is Bali. They also
affirm that 5 m. to the E., in the sea,
are ruined temples.^ The fact is, there
1 Fergusson, in his PtctutesqM Illustra-
tions qf AndeiU Architecture in Hindustan^
p. 67, quotes from Southey's "Curse of
Kehama ' the lines :
" The sepulchres
Of ancient kings, which Bali in his power
Made in primeval times, and built above
them
A city like the cities of the gods —
Being like a god himself. For many an age
Hath Ocean warred against his palaces,
Till overwhelmed beneath the waves—
Not overthrown — so well the awful chief
Had laid their deep foundations.
Their golden summits in the noonday light
Shone o'er the dark green deep that rolled
between ;
Her domes and pinnacles and spires were seen
Peering above the sea, a moumftil sight.
And on the sandy shore, beside the verge
Of Ocean, here and there^ rock-cut fane
Digitized by VjOOQIC
410
ROUTE 32. MADRAS TO THE SEVEN PAGODAS
India
are heavy breakers about 1 m. or so
out, where there is a reef of rocks.
At about 800 yds. N. of the temi)le is
a fishing-village called Karmiguriam-
man Kovil, wkere are the ruins of a
brick buildiiu^, said to have been a
French church. S. of the temple, at
the distance of 200 yds., is a ruined
granite building, called Ghetti'sTemple.
Leaving the shore temple, the traveller
will find 600 yds. due W. a plain
mandapam of Vishnu. 12 yds. S. of
it is a fine tank, with steps down
to the water all round. There is a
small mandapam in the centre of the
tank, called Niralji Mandapam (water
pavilion). Near the tank are many
trees, and quite a village of Brahman
houses. Passing these you come to the
great sculpturea rock called Aijuna's
Penance, and as the morning sun
will now be getting very hot, it will
be well to turn to the N.W., where a
sheltered monolithic temple will be
found, open to the front, called Vara-
haswami Mandapam, or "My Lord
Boar's Temple," from the representa-
tion of Vishnu in the boar incarnation
with the head of a boar. Here it will
be well to breakfast, sheltered from the
sun, and rest till towards evening.
There are retiring -places among the
rocks where one can bathe without
being seen, but it will be well to take
a few pa/rdahSy or tent -screens, for
greater privacy and comfort. The
absence of insects, especially flies, is
very remarkable here in the cold
weather. The Varahaswami Manda-
pam is I m. S. of Balipitham, where
the traveller leaves the canal. The
facade of the mandapam is supported
by two pillars and two pilasters, the
bases of which are carved to represent
the Simha, or Southern Lion, a mythi-
cal animal, not at all like a real lion.
They are sedent, and their tails are
Resisted, in its strength, the surf and snrge
That on their deep foundations beat in vain.'
The same authority makes this temple about
80 ft. sq. in the base, and about twioe that in
height, and adds : "Notwithstanding its small
dimensions it is, with the single exception of
the temple at Tanjore, the finest and most im-
portant vimanah I have seen, or know of, in
the 8. of India.'
twisted in a peculiar manner, like the
loop of &. In the centre of the wmll,
op(x>site to the fii^e, is a small alcove^
which is the sanctum, but there is no
idol in it. On either side is a dwarpal
in alto-relievo. In the side wall to the
N. is a representation of the Varaha
incarnation, fair'y well done, but un-
finished. The central figure is Vishnu
with a huge boar's head. He has his
right leg bent up, and resting on a
figure issuing apparently from waves.
The Shesh Nag, or six-headed serpent,
overcanopies the figure, which has the
face of a nandsome youth, whose hands
are joined in prayer. In front of him
are two male figures, the nearest of
which is pra^^ing with joined hands to
Vishnu. Vishnu supports on his liffht
thigh his wife Laknshmi Her^reet
are broken off. Near him is a wor-
shipping figure in the sky, and two
tali figures, one of whom holds a water-
pot for ablutions. The time is sap-
posed to be that when Vishnn slew
the giant Hiranyakah, ''golden eye,"
who had carried off the earth into the
infinite abyss. Vishnu, with the head
of a boar, puraued and slew him, and
brought back the earth. On the oppos-
ite side wall, to the S., is a very sinnted
representation of the VaTnajuikAfxUaTa^
or dwarf incarnation, in alto-relieva
Vishnu, dilated to an immense size,
places one foot on the earth, and lifts
another to the sky. The god has eidit
arms, with which he hol(£ a swofi^ a
quoit, a shield, a bow, and a lotos,
and with a sixth he points. The other
two are indistinct. Worshippers or
attendants are at his feet, ana (^er
figures appear in the skies. One to the
W . has the head of a dog. The legend
is that when Bali was tyrannising over
the earth, Vishnu approached hun in
the shape of a dwarf, and a^ed tox so
much earth as he could plant his feet
upon. Bali granted this modest re-
quest, whereupon Vishnu dilated to
immense proportions and planted one
foot on eartn, one on the sky, and
with a third thrust Bali down to
heU. The capitals of the pillars in
the fa9ade are very elegant. In tiie
wall in which is tiie uoove are two
compartments ; in the one to the
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 32. MAHABALIPDR
411
ipectator's right as he looks in from the
fii^ade is a tall slim woman, pfrobably
intended for Lakhshmi, with a tiger
to her right, and an antelope to her left,
»nd some squat Ganas or heavenly at-
tendants about her. In the compart-
ment to the spectator's left is Lakhshmi
seated, with elephants pouring water
over her from their trunks, and female
attendants on either side. In the
ceiling is a large lotus ornament.
About 30 yds. to the N. of the Vara-
haswami Mandapam is a monolithic
temple carved out of a huge boulder.
This temple is dedicated to Ganesh.
Taming to the S.E., you pass five fallen
pillars 29 ft. long, and other debris ;
and farther on come to the great
carvii^ called Arjutwds Peiuince. Be-
fore you reach it there is a flat rock
on the r^ht, about 6 ft. high, with steps
carved in the rock up to it. There
is also a slope in the rock down which
the villagers slide to amuse visitors.
The sculptured rock is 87 ft. high.
In the compartment on the right of the
spectator, as he looks towaras it, are
fifty -seven figures of men, women,
monkeys, and a cock. The monkeys
are three in number, and all these
figures are above an elephant 13 ft. 10
in. high, and a smaller one 6 ft. 7 in.
in height, below which are three calf
elephants. In the left compartment
of the sculptore are sixty-one figures,
the most remarkable of all being that
which is said to represent Arjuna,
standing on one toe of his left foot
with his hands above his head, his lips
being drawn away so as to show his
teeth, and his body being horribly
emaciated. Below him is a devilish
figure in a similar attitude, with long
ears, which seems to ridicule his per-
formance. To his right is a taU deity,
probably Shiva, pointing to him ap-
provingljr.
Adjoining this great piece of sculp-
ture, to the left of the spectator as he
looks at it, is a temple. The facade is
49 ft. long, and the interior is 40 ft.
deep, the rock having been hewn out
to that depth. The pillars have
curious capitisJs formed or three lions
each. In the same direction is another
temple 48 ft. long, and 25 ft. deep,
including, the pillars. On the back
wall is a relief representing Gopis, or
milk-maids, and herdsmen, and cows.
To the right stands Krishna supporting
with his left hand the hill of Govard-
han. About the centre is a man milk-
ing a cow, which is excellently carved,
and is represented as licking her calf.
The pillars have the same capitals as
those of Vijayanagar, that is, with a
bracket representing the shoot and
flower of the plantain. About 15 yds.
from this is a large temple to Vishnu,
which is kept locked, as the Brahmans
of the locality worship there. The
central block \a 88 ft. lon^. The
gopura df stone and masonry is about
44 ft. hi^h. This temple extends 165
ft. from back to front. As the specta-
tor looks towards its door, he has on
his ri^ht and close to it another small
ruined temple, on which is an inscrip-
tion, and opposite to it is a figure
resembling Buddha, with marks which
show it has been adopted as Vishnu.
There has been an extensive walled
enclosure or court in front of this
great temple, and there is a very solid
gateway partly preserved. In front of
this a^in is a loft^ slim pavilion on
four pillars, 25 ft. high. Pass now to
the E. up a slight ascent, and you
come to the Ramwnaji Temple, The
fa9ade has two pillars based on Simhas
and two pilasters. There is an inscrip-
tion here in old Sanscrit characters.
1^ m. from this towards the sea a
group of TrumolUhic temples^ called
Baths, is reached. The road is over
very deep sand, and is most fatiguing.
Here ladies or weak travellers can be
carried in chairs by the villagers.
The first objects come to are a lion and
an elephant carved in stone. The head
of the elephant is particularly well
carved. The lion is farthest to the
N. Th6 several BaHhs here are Drau-
padi's, Aijuna's, Bhima's, and Dharma
Kiua's.
Proceed now | m. to the N.W. to a
small temple perched on a rock over
the Temple of Durga. On your right
as you enter Durga's Temple is a
most spirited relief representing Durga
mounted on a lion d!estroying Mahis-
hasur, the buflalo-headed demon. On
412
BOUTE 32. MADRAS TO THE SEVEN PAOOBAS
India
your left is a relief representing Vishnu
recumbent. The platform of" the upper
temple is 56 ft. above that of Durga's,
and very difficult of access, but the
guides spring up the slippery rock with
wonderml agihty. A most complete
and valuable account of these excava-
tions will be found in the work entitled
Descriptive and Historical Papers re-
lating to the Seven Pagodas on the
Coramandel Coasty by W. Chambers,
J. Goldingham, B. G. Babington,
F.A.S., the Rev. G. W. Mahon, Lieut.
J. Braddock, the Rev. W. Taylor, Sir
Walter Elliot, and C. Gubbins, edited
by Capt. M. W. Carr ; printed for the
Government of Madras, at the Foster
Press, 23Rundall'sRoad, Vepery, 1869.
The age of these sculptures has never
been definitely ascertained. No date
has been found in any of the inscrip-
tions. Mr. Fergusson, HisL of Arm,
voL ii. p. 502, says the Raths were
"carved by the Hindus, probably
about 1300 A.D." Sir W. Elliot fixes
the era of the oldest Tamil inscription
on the rocks of Mahabalipur at the
latter part of the 11th century, and
that of the rock inscription at ^luvsn
Euppan at the beginning of the 12th
century. The Sanscrit inscriptions aie
of earlier date. Sir W. Elliot thinks
that they could not have been later
than the 6th century. Mr. Fergusson
says: "Although these Ratl^ aie
comparatively modem and belong to a
different faith, they certainly constitute
the best representations now known of
the forms of the Buddhist buildings."
A copy and translation of the Sanwrit
inscriptions by Dr. Arthmr Bumell
wiU be found m the Appendix of the
work referred to above.
Sadras, an old Dutch settiement, is
3 m. farther to the S. by the can&l, but
is hardly worth a visit.
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n
BURMA
INTRODUCTION
DeBcription. — The Province of Burma lies to the E. of the Bay of
1, and covers a range of country stretching from the 10th to, roughly
Lg, the 27th parallel of latitude. It is bounded on the N. and N.E.
la; on the N.W. by Bengal, Assam, and the feudatory State of
jur, and on the W. and S.W. by the sea. To the S.E. lies the kingdom
'j»m. The total area, excluding the Shan States, is about 171,430 sq. m.,
the population, according to the census of 1891, was 7,605,560. The
ice is watered by five great streams, viz. the IrraAJoaddy^ the ChiTtdtoiny
^^Utang, the ScUween and the Myitjige. The first two rivers have their
j hses somewhere in the northern chain of mountains in the interior, one
I Hi-stream of the Irrawaddy probably coming from Tibet, where are also
f sources of the Salween ; the Sittang rises in the hills S.E. of Mandalay,
p the Myitnge drains the Shan States to the £. of that city. The Irra-
■Jdy and the Salween are fine rivers which, in the lower part of their
orse, overflow the flat country below their banks, during the rainy season,
id, higher up, find their way through magnificent defiles. The Irrawaddy
navigable for over 900 m., but the Salween is practically useless as a means
f communication, owing to the frequent obstacles in its channel.
«y The northern portion of the province is in the main an upland territory
K>ntaining much rolling country, intersected by occasional hill ranges, and
inth a few isolated tracts of alluvial plain. The country throughout the
« lelta is flat and uninteresting. Towards Prome the valley of the Irrawaddy
r contracts, and the monotony of the plain is diversified by a wooded range of
, bills, which cling to the western bank nearly all the way to the frontier.
: The Salween valley contains occasional harmonies of forest, crag, and moun-
tain stream. On the other hand, the scenery in Tavoy and Mergui, and among
the myriad islets which fiinge the Tenasserim coast, is almost English in its
, verdure and repose. The forests of Burma abound in fine trees. Among
these teak holds a conspicuous place. Almost every description of timber
known in India is produced in the forests, from which also an abundant
supply is obtained of the varnish used by the Burmese in the manufacture of
lacquered ware. Sticklao of an excellent quality is obtained in the woods,
and rubber has of late years been largely exported. A marked feature
in Rangoon during the rains is the number of beautiful flowering trees.
d by Google
414 BURMA India
Although there is plenty of large game in the country, it is not easy to get
at owing to the dense forests, and the difficulty of obtaining experienced
shikaris and baggage-animals ; but good bags of snipe are made all over &e
country from August to December, and good jungle fowl and duck shootiDg
is to be had without difficulty in many parts of the province.
Burma is fairly rich in minerals. Gold, silver, and other valuable metals
have been found in small quantities in various parts : fine marble is found
near Mandalay ; coal of fair quality has recently been discovered in sevoil
parts of Upper Burma. Mogok supplies the world with rubies ; and sapphires
are found there, and in the Shan States. Petroleum is obtained in large
quantities at Yenangyoung in Upper Burma, and in smaller quantities in
Arrakan and elsewhere. Jade and amber are extracted in considerable
quantities in the northern part of the Bhamo district. In Lower Burma
agriculture is the main employment of the people. Cotton, sesamunn, and
tobacco are extensively grown, and orchards are found near every village,
but rice covers about five-sixths of the total area under cultivation. The soil
is lavish in its yield, requires little labour and no artificial stimulus beyond
the ash of the past year's stubble, which is burned down and worked into the
land. Upper Barma, though inferior in point of fertility to the low-lying
tracts of Lower Burma, is far from unproductive. The chief crops are riw,
maize, millet, wheat, pulses, tobacco, cotton, and sesamum.
The commercial prosperity of Lower Burma has more than kept pace with
its rapidly increasing population. The chief articles exported are rioe,
timber, cutch, hides, petroleum, and precious stones. The chief imports are
piece goods, silk, cotton, and wool, liquors, tobacco, iron, and sugar.
The main commercial industries are those connected with the rice and
timber trade. The indigenous manufactures of the country produce little
beyond what is required for home consumption. Silk, lacquered ware, gold
and silver work, wood and ivory carving, are among the most justly admind
of Burmese handicrafts. The best silks are woven at Mandalay ; the principal
lacquer- workers are at Nyaungu, near Pagan ; gold and silver work is carried
on at Rangoon, Moulmein, Thayetmyo, Mandalay, and to a greater or less
extent in all the larger towns ; the best wood-carvers are in Rangoon and
Mandalay, and the most expert ivory-carver is at Moulmein. The character-
istics of Burmese art are vigour ard novelty in design, but want of delicacy
and finish in execution.
Should Barma be visited after a tour in India, the traveller cannot 6il
to be struck with the great difference in the people and the scenery of the
two countries. The merry, indolent, brightly -clothed Burmese have no
counterpart in Hindustan, and the richness of the soil and exuberance of
the vegetation will be at once remarked. The life of the natives is free from
the deadening effects of caste and seclusion of the women — two cust(»n8
which stereotype the existence of so large a part of the inhabitants of India.
The Burmese, as a race, are of short stature and thick-set. The men wear
long hair on their heads, but have little or none on their faces : flat in
feature, they show unmistakably their near relationship to the Chinese. The
•>en are well treated and attractive-looking; they go to market, keep
Digitized by VjOOQIC
INTRODUCTION 415
shops, and take their fiill share in social and domestic affairs. Men and
women alike are well clad, and delight in gay colours and silk attire.
In religion the Burmese are Buddhists, and every Burman is supposed
to spend a certain part of his life as a pongyi or monk, whether he adopts
the sacred calling ultimately as his career or not. The monks are the
schoolmasters of the country, and perform this duty in return for the sup-
port they receive from the people. The shaven head and yellow rohe of
the monk are a common sight in all Burmese villages and towns.
HiBtoxy. — The earliest European connection with Burma was in 1519,
when the Portuguese concluded a treaty with the King of Pegu, and estah-
lished factories at Martahan and Syriam. Towards the close of the 16th
cent, the Dutch ohtained possession of the island of Negrais, and ahout the
year 1612 the English East India Company had agents and factories at
Syriam, Prome, Ava, and perhaps Bhamo. About the middle of the 17th
cent, all European merchants were expelled from the country, owing to a
dispute between the Burmese Governor of Pegu and the Dutch. The Dutch
never returned. In 1688 the Burmese Governor of Syriam wrote to the
English Governor of Madras inviting British merchants to settle in Pegu, and
in 1698 a commercial Resident was sent to Syriam, and a factory was built
there, and others at Negrais and Bassein. The French also had a settlement
at Syriam. Meanwhile the Burmese dynasty of Ava was destroyed by the
rebellion of the Talaing kingdom of Pegu, and the Takings held sway in
Burma till the middle of the 18th cent., when Alompra, the founder of the
dynasty which till recently reigned in Upper Burma, succeeded in uniting
his countrymen, the Burmese, and crushing the Talaings. In 1755 Alompra
founded Rangoon to celebrate his conquest of the Talaings, and destroyed
Syriam. After Alompra's success he found that the French merchants had
been supplying warlike stores to the Talaings, and he put all Frenchmen to
death. The English, who had generally supported the Burmese, were granted
the island of Negrais and a factory at Bassein. In 1759, however, they were
suspected of assisting rebels, so their factories were destroyed, and 10 English-
men and 100 natives of India were murdered. In the following year Alompra
died while laying siege to Ayuthia, the capital of Siam, and the English
obtained permission from his successor, Naungdawgyi, to re-establish the
Bassein factory. Sinbyushin, who succeeded Naungdawgyi, took Manipur
and Siam, and defeated two inroads from China. He died in 1776, and was
succeeded by Bodawpaya, who conquered Arrakan in 1784. This brought
Burma into collision with the British in Chittagong. The Arrakanese
outlaws took refuge over the border, and harassed the Burmese rulers by
inroads from British territory. This gave rise to friction, and in order to
assist in the adjustment of matters in dispute, an envoy was sent to Burma
in 1795 by the Governor -General of India. In 1819 Bodawpaya died, and
was succeeded by Bagyidaw. Matters had not improved on the border, and
in 1824 the Burmese invaded Manipur and Assam, and Maha Bandula, the
great Burmese general, started with an army from Ava to take command in
Arrakan and invade Bengal.
The British Government formally declared war against Burma on March
Digitized by VjOOQIC
416 BURMA India
5, 1824. The Burmese were driven out of Assam, Eachar, and Manipor ;
and Rangoon, Mergui, Tavoy, and Martaban were occupied by Britisli troops.
The troops suffered much from sickness as soon as the rains began ; all
moyements by land became impracticable, and by December the force occupf-
ing Rangoon had been reduced by sickness and otherwise to abont 1800
Europeans and 2500 natives fit for duty. The Burmese, under Mahs Bandok,
made a determined effort to drive the invaders into the sea ; but their attack,
in which 60,000 men are said to have taken part, was repulsed with grett
slaughter, and the Burmese army dwindled away, a portion of it retiring to
Donabyu, which Maha Bandula fortified with some skill for a further effort
The British troops, having been reinforced, marched up the Irrawaddj
valley, and on April 2, 1825, took Donabyu. Maha Bandula was killed in
the cannonade, and with him aU serious resistance came to an end. Prome
was occupied, and the troops went into cantonment for the rains. In
September 1825 the Burmese endeavoured to treat, but as they would not
agree to the terms offered, hostilities recommenced ; and in December the
British advanced, and, after several actions with tlie Burmese troops, reached
Yandaboo, Feb. 16, 1826. Here the envoys of the king signed a treaty
ceding to the British Assam, Arrakan, and the coast of Tenasaerim, and
agreeing to pay a million sterling towards the cost of the war. In November
1825 a commercial treaty was signed at Ava, and in 1830 the first British
Resident was appointed under the treaty to the Burmese capital. In 1837
Bagyidaw was deposed by his brother Tharrawaddy, who in 1846 was suc-
ceeded by his brother Pagan Mim
In 1852, owing to a succession of outrages committed on British
subjects by the Burmese Governor of Rangoon, for which all reparation was
refused, the British again declared war against the King of Burma ; and
towards the close of the same year Lord Dalhousie proclaimed that the whole
of the province of Pegu, as far N. as the parallel of latitude 6 m. N. of the
ort at Myede, was annexed to the Biitlsh Empire. Almost immediatelj
after this Pag&n Min was deposed by his brother Mindon Min, who ruled his
curtailed kingdom with wisdom and success.
The pacification of Pegu and its reduction to order occupied about tea
years of constant work. In 1862 Her Majesty's possessions in Burma—
namely, the provinces of Arrakan, Pegu, Martaban, and Tenasserim — ^wers
amalgamated and formed into the Province of British Burma, under the
administration of a Chief-Commissioner, Lieut. -Col. (afterwards Sir Arthur)
Phayre being appointed to that oflBce.
In October 1878 King Mindon died, and was succeeded by his son King
Thebaw. Early in 1879 the execution of a number of members of the Rojal
family at Mandalay excited much horror in Lower Burma, and relati<Mis
became much strained owing to the indignation of Englishmen at the
barbarities of the Burmese Court, and the resentment of the king and hit
ministers at the attitude of the British Resident. In October 1879, owing to
the unsatisfactory position of the British Resident in Mandalay, the Govern-
ment of India withdrew their representative from the Burmese Court
Meanwhile, under the lax rule of Thebaw the condition of Upper Burma
Digitized by VjOOQIC
nn?»ODUCTlON 417
had beeti gradually drifting from bad to worse. The Central Governm^t
lost control of many of the outlying districts, and the elements of disocder
on the British frontier were a standing menace to the peace of Lower Burma.
The king, in contravention of treaty obligations, created monoplies to the
detriment of the trade of both England and Burma, and, while the Indian
Government was unrepresented at Mandalay, representatives of France and
Italy were welcomed, and two separate embassies were sent to Europe for the
purpose of contracting alliances with sundry continental powers. Matters were
brought to a crisis in 1885, when the Burmese Court imposed a fine of £230,000
upon the Bombay Burma Trading Corporation, and refused the proposal of
the Indian Government to submit the matter to arbitration. In view of the
long series of unsatisfactory episodes in the British relations with Burma
during Thebaw's reign, the Government of India decided once for all to
adjust the relations between the two countries. An ultimatum was sent to
King Thebaw, requiring him to suspend action against the Corporation ; to
rec^vo at Mandalay an envoy from the Viceroy, who should be treated with
the respect due to the Government which he represented ; and to r^ulate the
external relations of the country in accordance with the advice of the Govern-
ment of India. This ultimatum was despatched on Oct. 22, 1885. On Nov.
9 a reply was received in Rangoon, amounting to an unconditional refusal of
the terms laid down. On Nov. 7 King Thebaw issued a proclamation calling
on his subjects to drive the British heretics into the sea. On Nov. 14, 1885,
the British expedition crossed the frontier, and advanced to Mandalay with-
out encountering any serious resistance. On Nov. 28 the British occupied
Mandalay, and next day King Thebaw was sent down to Rangoon, whence
he was afterwards transferred to India. Upper Burma was formally annexed
on Jan. 1, 1886, and the work of restoring the country to order and Intro-
dudng settled government commenced. For some years the country was
disturbed by the lawless spirits who had been multiplying under the late
regime, but by the close of 1889 all the larger bands of marauders had been
broken up, and since 1890 the country has enjoyed greater freedom from
crimes of violence than the province formerly known as British Burma. In
the time of Burmese rule China claimed a certain shadowy suzerainty over
the Burmese empire. In July 1886 a convention was signed at Pekin,
whereby China recognised British rule in Burma, and agreed to the demarca-
tion of the frontier and the encouragement of international trade. By a
further treaty, signed in 1894, the frontier has been defined, and further
arrangements made for the encouragement of trade, and the linking of the
telegraph systems of Burma and China. In 1897 the Province was con-
stituted a Lieutenant-Governorship under Sir Frederick Fryer.
The census of 1891 showed that in Lower Burma population had increased
during the past decade at the rate of 2*39 per cent per annum. The trade
of the province has greatly increased under British rule. The standard of
living among the agricultural classes has improved, and large areas of
cultivable land still exist, and in most districts may be had for the asking.
Climate, etc. — The climate of the province, for some distance from the
coast, consists of a wet season from May 15 to November 15, and a dry season
418 isHtMk India
for the rest of the year. Farther inland the rain becomes less ; but, as Buma
must at present be reached from the sea, the best time for visiting the pio-
▼ince is from November until February. During the wet season the raioMl
at Rangoon is heavy — amounting to upwards of 90 in., and after Febraaiy
the heat is considerable till the first refreshing showers fall in May.
Means of AecesB. — ^The quickest route to Burma is by Brindisi and Pot
Said to Bombay, rail to Madras, and thence steamer to Rangoon. A favonrfte
route is by the Bibby line, which despatches steamers to Rangoon from liverpool
and London every three weeks. The steamers are large and well found in evei^
respect, and perform the journey from Liverpool to Rangoon in about 27 days.
They call at Marseilles and Colombo, and if the traveller proceeds to MarseOlcs
by train he can complete the journey to Rangoon in 22 days. Rangoon can
also be reached from Calcutta, Madias, or Singapore, by the steamers of the
British India Steam Navigation Co. The voyage from Calcutta or Madras
occupies 4 days ; that from Singapore 7 days. The steamers from Calcutta
to Rangoon start twice a week ; those from Madras once a week ; and tiiose
from Singapore once a week. The days of starting vary at different seasons
of the year.
General Hinta.— Burma has hitherto been little visited by tourists. Hie
hotels are indifferent, and in many places non-existent ; there are no competent
guides, and travelling arrangements, except on the railway and by a few main
lines of steamer communication, are primitive. Hence the traveller will do
well to provide himself, if possible, with letters of introduction. Armed
with these he will find his difficulties reduced. Without them he will find
it difficult to see much of the country, or even of the larger towns.
He will do well to provide himself with some books about Burma. Of
recent books the best is undoubtedly T?ie Burman^ His Life and Matums^
by Shway Yoe (J. G. Scott), published by Macmillan in 1882. But tiiis
is unfortunately out of print, as is also Yule's E^nhasay to Ava (Smith,
Elder, 1858), a work which will be found very useful if the traveller can
obtain a copy of it Captain Forbes' Bwnna (Murray) is also a useful
book, and Bishop Bigandet's Legend of Oaudama (Trubner), is invaluable for
students of Burmese Buddhism. l/Tider the Shadow of the Pagoda^ by Mr.
Cumming, contains some capital sketches of Burma and the Burmese. For
more detailed information reference may be made to Colonel Spearman's
Gazetteer of British Burma (Government Press, Rangoon), also unfortunately
out of print, and to the Administration Report of the Province for 1892-93,
and the Burma Census Report issued by the Burma Administration in 189*2.
Notes of a Tour in Burma^ by Dr. Oertel (Government Press, Rangoon 1893)
will be of interest, especially to the archaeologist, and contains a number of
photographs of various parts of Burma. For historical information the
traveller should obtain Phayre's Utstory (Triibner). Free use has been made
of several of the above works, and especially of Shway Yoe, in the following
pages.
Pagodas and MonaBtaries. — ^The pagodas and monasteries form the chief
objects of interest throughout Burma, and as they are mostly built on very
similar plans a general description of tlieae two classes of religious buildings
Digitized by VjOOQIC
INTRODUCTION 419
will be useful. The following description is taken in the main from Shway
Yoe. The Pagodcu, while differing in various minor details, consist almost
invariably of a solid pyramidal cone rising with a gradually diminishing
rounded outline, surmounted by a ti or '' umbrella" spire, a construction
formed of concentric rings of beaten iron lessening to a rod with a small
vane on the top. From the rings hang little bells with flat elongated clappers,
which are caught by the wind and maintain day and night a melodious ringing.
They are usually built upon more or less elevated platforms, and are erected
over relics of Gaudama. In almost all the larger pagodas there are arched
wings on each face serving, as it were, as antechapels, and each containing
a figure of Gaudama, while the surrounding platform is frequently studded
with minor temples, image houses, altars for the deposit of offerings, large
bells, flag-posts, images of strange monsters, and other curious objects. These
pagodas are to be found in every village in Burma ; capping the hills and
frequently in out-of-the-way places, contributing everywhere to the pictur-
esqueness of the country. There is good reason for this multiplication of
fanes. Ko work of merit is so highly regarded as the building of a pagoda.
The builder is regarded as a saint on earth, and when he dies he attains the
holy rest. It avails little to repair a previous dedication, unless it be one
of the great world shrines at Rangoon, Pegu, Prome, or Mandalay. Hence
old pagodas are seldom repaired, but new ones are constantly springing up.
Outside every village in Burma, however small, there stands also a monastery
or pongyi kyaung^ where the monks pass their tranquil lives and supply a
simple education to the children of the village. Ordinarily the monastery
is built of teak, but in many places brick buildings are now being erected.
The shape is always oblong, and the inhabited portion is raised on posts or
pillars some 8 or 10 ft. above the ground. They are never more than one
story high, for it would be an indignity to a holy monk to have any one over
his head. A flight of steps leads up to the verandah, which extends all along
the N. and S. sides and frequently all round the building. The steps are
usually adorned with carvings or plaster figures of nats or ogres. From
the raised floor rises the building with tier upon tier of dark massive roofs
capped at intervals with tapering spires or pyathcUs. The buildings are in
many cases ornamented with the most elaborate carving. The interior
accommodation is very simple. It consists, in the main, of a great central
hall divided into two portions, one level with the verandah where the scholars
are taught, and the other a raised dais 2 ft or so above the level of the rest
of the building. Seated upon this the priests are accustomed to receive
visitors, and at the back, against the wall, are arranged images of Gaudama
interspersed with manuscript chests, small shrines, fans, and other religious
implements, and miscellaneous gifts of the pious, heaped together ordinarily
in very careless fashion. There are occasionally dormitories for the monks,
but, as a rule, they sleep in the central hall, where the mats which form their
beds may be seen rolled up round the pillows against the wall. In many
monasteries there is a special room for the palm leaf scribes, often detached
from the main building, as are the cook-room and the bathing-houses. In
one corner is usually a tJiein, a building for the performance of various rites
Digitized by VjOOQIC
420
BURMA
India
and ceremonies, and more particularly for the examination and ordination of
priests. The traveller will find it perfectly easy to visit and closely inspect
as many pagodas and monasteries as he pleases. The pagodas are open to all,
and at the monasteries he may be generally certain of a friendly welcome from
the priests, provided he can speak Burmese or is accompanied by any one
acquainted with that language. The priests are treated with great respect
by the people of the country, and are invariably addressed as paya or lord.
Any one who desires to visit a monastery will do well to bear in mind that
the monks are accustomed to be treated with deference.
Pwes. — The traveller should make a point, before leaving Burma, of seeing
something of the Ptoe^ the national amusement of the people. Pwes are of
three kinds, the Zat ptoCf which consists of acting, singing, dancing, md
clowning ; the Vokthwe pwe^ in which a similar performance is gone through
by marionettes ; and the Yein pwe, a kind of ballet, with music and song,
performed by a considerable company of young men or maidens, as tl|e case
may be. Yein pwes are usually performed only on special occasions, in
honour of some high official, or at a great pagoda feast, but zat pwes and
yokthwe pwes are of constant occurrence on nearly all moonlight nights in
every large town, and the traveller should have no difficulty in seeing both
forms of entertainment, either in Rangoon or Mandalay. The performances
take place in the open air, last all night, and usually for several nights ii
succession, and are free and open to all, the actors being paid by the giver of
the entertainment. The majority of the audience stay the whole night, saj
from 8 P.M. till sunrise, but an hour or two of the performance will prohaUj ,
satisfy the English traveller. A full description of the different kinds of pwe i
is given by Shway Yoe in chapter xxix. of The Burman. I
RANGOON.
Arrival. — It may be taken for granted
that the traveller, either from England
or from India, will land at Rangoon,
and it will therefore be convenient first
to describe the principal objects of in-
terest in that cify, and then to mention
a few of the principal tours which can
be made thence to other parts of the
province.
Rangoon if. is the capital of the
province, and the seat of the local
government. In 1852 it was a mere
fishing village. In 1894 it is a city of
about 200,000 inhabitants, having a
trade larger than that of any IncBan
port save only Calcutta and Bombay.
The value of the private sea-borne traie
of Rangoon in 1892-93 was over Rs- 1
186 millions. Twenty years ago it |
was under Rs. 46 millions. DoiiBgl
the same period the population I
increased from about 90,000 to ab(
200,000 souls. The principal o\^
of interest in and around Rangoon i
be classified as follows : —
1. The pagodas and monasteries.
2. The Bazaars and native shopa
3. The rice, timber, and oil worbi|
4. The public buildings.
5. The cantonments and lakes.
6. The remains at Syriam.
(1) PAGODAS AND MONAST
There are numerous pagodas m 1
about Rangoon. The Shtoe Bttgeiki
the SuU deserve special mentioi^
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\
JolmllarCJuilamanr 8, Co. tSa^
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RANGOON
421
great Shwe Dagon Pagoda is the
most venerable, the finest, and the most
universally visited of all places of
'worship in In do China. Its peculiai*
sanctity is due to the fact, that it is the
only pagoda known to Buddhists, which
is credited with containing actual relics,
not only of Gaudama, but of the three
"Bnddhas who preceded him in this
world. Hence it attracts countless
pilgrims, not only from all parts of
Burma, but also from Cambodia, Siam,
Corea, and Ceylon. It is situated
about 2 m. from the Strand, and may
be reached either by steam tramway
(chiefly used by natives) or by ticca
gharry. The stately pile stands upon
a mound, partly natural and partly
artificial, which has been cut into two
rectangular terraces one above the
other ; each side, as in the case of all
pagodas, facing one of the cardinal
points of the compass. The upper
terrace, which has been carefully
levelled and paved and repaved by the
pious, rises 166 ft. from the level of
the ground, and is 900 ft. long by 686
wide. The ascent was by four flights
of brick steps, one opposite the centre
of each face — but the western face has
been closed by the fortifications built
by the English conqueror to dominate
the town and secure the pagoda, where
there was so much desperate fighting
in the Burmese wars. The southern
ascent is that most frequently used.
At the foot are two gigantic leogryphs,
built of brick and covered with plaster.
From them up to the platform the long
stairs are covered by a rising series
of handsomely-carved teak roofs, sup-
ported on huge wood and masonry
pillars. The heavy cross-beams and
the panelling are in many places em-
bellished with frescoes, representing
scenes in the life of Gaudama and his
disciples, and with hideously curious
representations of the tortures of the
wicked. The steps themselves are ex-
ceedingly primitive and dilapidated,
consisting in some parts of broad stone
flags, and in others of simple sun-dried
bricks, worn by the feet of myriads of
worshippers. On either side beggars
congregate, exhibiting, in many cases,
horrible leprous sores. There are also
numerous stalls, at which gold leaf,
flowers, and other ofl^erings, may be
purchased, besides a considerable
variety of other articles. The stairs
debouch on a broad, open, flagged
space which runs all round the pagoda,
and is left free for worshippers. From
the centre of this springs, from ' an
octagonal plinth, the pagoda itself. It
has a circumference of 1355 ft., and
rises to a height of about 370 feet, or
a little higher than St Paul's Cathedral
It is profusely gilt from base to summit,
and is surmounted by the usual gilt
iron work ti or "umbrella," on each of
whose many rings haug multitudes of
gold and silver jewelled bells. This ti
was presented by Mindon Min, the late
king of Burma, and was placed on the
summit at a cost of about £50, 000. It
was constructed by voluntary labour,
and subscriptions in money and jewels,
with which the vane and uppermost
band are richly studded, flowed in
from all parts of Burma. A few years
ago the whole pagoda was regilt, and
the U was then lowered to the plat-
form, and replaced, renovated, and
with many costly jewels added. At
the comers of the basement are some-
what Assyrian-like figures of Manot-
thiha — creatures with two bodies and
one head, half lion, half man, with
huge ears and ruffled crest — and all
round about are stone figures of lions
displaying an ample show of teeth be-
tween their grinning lips. The tale is
that long years ago a king's son, who
had been abandoned in the forest, was
found by a lioness and suckled by her.
When the prince grew to man's estate
he left his foster-mother, and swam a
broad river to escape from her. The
tender mother's heart burst when he
reached the other side, and she died ;
and, in remembrance of her love, lions'
figures are placed at the foot of all
pagoda steps, and round the building
itself.
The four chapels at the foot of the
pagoda are adorned by colossal figures
of the sitting Buddha, and in the
farthest recess, in a niche of its own,
is a still more goodly figure, the thick
gilding darkened in many places by
th« fumes of thousands of hunting
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422
BURMA
India
tapers and candles. Hundreds of
Gaudamas, large and small, sitting,
standing, and reclining, white and
black, of alabaster, son-dried clay, or
wood, surround and are propped up on,
the larger images. High stone altars
for the offering of rice and flowers
stand before the lions, interspersed
with niche altars for burnt -offerings.
On the outer edge of the platform are
a host of small pagodas, each with its
ti; Uizaungs, image-houses overflowing
with the gifts of generations of pilgrims ;
figures of Buddha in single low stone
chapels ; tall posts (called tagundaing),
flaunting from which are long cylind-
rical streamers of bamboo framework,
pasted over with paper depicting scenes
from the sacred history, and often in-
scribed with pious invocations from
the offerer, or surrounded by the sacred
Jientha (Brahminy goose), the emblem
of the Talaings, or the kalaweikt the
crane of the Burmese. Interspersed
among these are multitudes of bells of
all sizes. The bells are hung on stout
crossbeams, and beside them lie deers'
antlers and wooden stakes with which
the worshipper strikes them as he
passes, and so calls the attention of
nats and men to his acts of piety. In
the N.E. corner, covered by a gaily
decorated wooden shed, hangs a bell
of enormous size, inside which half a
dozen men can stand. It was pre-
sented by King Tharrawaddy in 1840,
and is said to weigh 42^ tons, and to
be the third largest bell in the world.
It bears a long inscription recounting
the merits gained by the monarch who
g resented it. The bell has a curious
istoiy. After the second Burmese
war tne English made an attempt to
carry it off to Calcutta as a trophy,
but by some mishap it was sunk to
the bottom of the Rangoon river. The
English engineers failed to raise it.
The Burmans after some years begged
that the sacred bell might be restored
to them, if they could recover it. The
petition was granted with a sneer ; but
they set to work, got it out, and
carried it in triumph to the place
where it now hangs. It would be
impossible to describe in any detail
|he myriad objects of interest which
are gathered on the pagoda platfcvm ;
but the traveller should not fail to
examine the magnificent carving at
the head of the eastern ascent, nor
that on the canopy of the colossal
recumbent figure of Gaudama on the
western face of the platform. The
carving and inlaid glass work on all
four of the chapels attached to the
pagoda itself deserve notice, the carving
over the eastern chapel being particu-
larly curious, inasmuch as it appears
to be illustrative of the capture of the
pagoda by the English. The British
soldiers with their rifles, and theii
officers each holding a telescope to his
eye, are clearly recognisable on the
highest tier, while on a lower tier the
defeated Burmese show little sign of
despondency. In the N.E. comer of
the platform will be found the graves
of certain ofiicers killed in the second
Burmese war. To the W. of the plat-
form is the Government ArsenaL At
the base of the pagoda hill are many
monasteries embowered in groves of
palmyra palms and shady trees, and to
the S. is a small convent of nuns, not
far from the Rest-House built by the
King of Siam for pilgrims from his
dominions.
The platform is never deserted.
Even long after midnight the voice
of the worshipper may be heard in
the night air chanting his pious
aspirations, while on feast days the
laughing, joyous crowd of men and
maidens in their gay national dress
makes the platform of the Shwedagon
one of the finest sights in the world.
The visitor should, if possible, take an
interpreter with him, and should pro-
vide himself with a few rupees. He
can then, if he pleases, have his fortune
told by one of the numerous sayaSj
who are always to be found on the
platform ; or he can buy for a rupee
or two one of the (Quaint triangular
gongs used by the religious mendicants
to attract the attention of the pious,
or supply himself with gold lea^
prayer flags, flowers, or snecimens of
the curious marionettes and other toys
which are offered for sale on the steps
and on the platform.
Buddhists fix the date of the erection
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RANGOON
423
of the Shwedagon pagoda at 588 b.c.;
but state that the site was sacred for
cycles before, since the relics of the
tliree preceding Buddhas were found
interred when the two Talaing brothers,
Pic and Tapaw, came with their
precious eight hairs of Gaudama to the
sacred hill. The original pagoda is
said to have been only 27 ft. high,
and to have attained its present height
by being repeatedly cased with an
outer covering of bncks several feet in
thickness. The shrine has remained
unaltered in size and shape since 1564,
and probably will never be altered
again. At all times and at all dis-
tances it looks imposing and sublime,
like the religion whose followers have
built it. It looks best, perhaps, on a
blight moonlight night, and the
traveller is advised, if practicable, to
pay a visit to the platform by night
as well as by day. For the above de-
scription of the pagoda the compiler is
mainly indebted to Mr. Scott (Shway
Yoe).
The Sule Pagoda close to the Strand.
This pagoda is well worth a visit,
and the traveller will do well to
ascend the platform and examine the
many curious shrines and figures with
which it is adorned. Among others
will be found a representation of the
Sule Naty the spirit after whom the
pagoda is named, the legendary
guardian of the hill upon which the
Shwedagon pagoda is erected.
The Rangoon Monasteries are very
numerous. They are none of them
of any special interest, and the travel-
ler will probably be satisfied by paying
a brief visit to two or three of them.
Some of the most picturesque are at
Kemmendine, near the rly. sta., and
a visit to them may be combined with
an inspection of the images of Gaudama
in process of manufacture hard by,
and of the shops of the kalaga makers,
which are also at Kemmendine. The
kalaga is a kind of blanket, usually
red, covered with strange figures in
appliqu^ work. KaZagas can some-
tmies be purchased ready-made, but
must usually be ordered beforehand.
They make quaint and handsome
portUres or hangings. There are other
larse monasteries in Godwin Road,
and at Pazundaung (see Index, *' Mon-
asteries ").
(2) The Bazaars and Native Shops.
— The bazaars are a great institution
throughout Burma. They are large
markets, usually the property of the
State or of the Municipality, in
which much of the retail trade of the
country is carried on. They are idso
the ae&t centres of gossip among
the jBurmese. A visit should be
made to the Municipal bazaars on the
Strand Road and at Kemmendine, and
to the Swratee bazaar in China Street.
At the bazaar in Strand Road speci-
mens of thb silks and lacquer work
for which Burma is famous can be
purchased. Apart from the bazaars,
the native shops are not of special
interest At GoanamaVs, in Merchant
Street, tolerable specimens of various
forms of native art may be purchased
at fairly reasonable prices ; but the
traveller who desires the best, or who
wishes to see the articles in process
of manufacture, should go to Godwin
Road for silver work or wood carving.
He will find several shops on the W.
side of the road. For silver work
Maung Shtoe Von and Ma/u/ng Po
Thet are about the best. But these
men maintain little or no stock of
articles for sale. The traveller must
order what he wants and be content
to wait some time before he gets it.
The usual charge for embossed silver
bowls is doubk the weight of the
finished bowl in rupees ; out for the
finest work even higher prices are
charged.
(3) The Bice, Timber, and Oil Works.
— It will be worth while to pay a visit
to one of the great rice mills. Those
oi Messrs. MohrBros,, at Kemmendine,
and of Messrs, Bulloch Bros., at
Pazundaung, are two of the largest, and
permission to visit them can generally
be obtained without diflBculty at the
head ofiices of the firms. Messrs.
Mojcgregor's Timber - yard at Alon
should also be visited. Elephants
are employed there to staok the
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424
BURMA
India
timber, and it is interesting to observe
tbe intelligence with which they
perform the task. The oil -works of
Messrs, Finlayy Fleming, wnd Co,, at
Pazondaung, are also worth seeing.
(4) The Public Buildings. — Rangoon
cannot at present boast of many fine
public buildings. The Court Houses
and Post and Telegraph Offices and the
Sailor's Home are on the Strand, and
a fine pile of buildings has recently
been erected, at a cost of seven lakhs
of rupees, in Dalhousie Street, for the
accommodation of the Secretariat and
other public offices. This is at present,
undoubtedly, the finest building in
Bangoon and deserves a visit. In
front of it will be noticed the " Ser-
Tices Memorial," a drinking fountain
erected by members of the various
civil services of the Province in memory
of their comrades who were killed or
died during the 8rd Burmese war. The
names of the officers commemorated
are inscribed on the shields surrounding
the fountain. In China Street is the
new Cathedral, and in the Eemmen-
dine Road the new Oovemment House,
a handsome three -storied building,
erected at a cost of six lakhs of rupees.
The architect of these three buildings is
Mr. Hoyne Fox, an engineer of the
Public Works Dept. The Rangoon
College and the Oeneral Hospital,
situated on either side of China Street,
are spacious teak buildings of no special
architectural merit. Travellers inter-
ested in the progress of education in
the East would do well to pay a visit
to the college and also to St. John's
(S.P.G.), ^mmendine (behind the
Gymkhana), St. Paul's (Roman Cath. )
near the new public buildings, and the
Baptist Institutions at Alon. The
Bernard Ftee Library attached to the
Rangoon College contains an interesting
collection of ancient Pali and Burmese
palm-leaf manuscripts, and the Phayre
Museum close by may be considered
worth a visit. The museum is sur-
rounded by the Horticnltural Gardenf*,
in which a small collection of wild
beasts forms a gi-ent attraction for the
Burmese. In these gardens stands
»Uo 9, statue to Sir i^thur Phayre,
first Chief Commissioner of Bnrmi.
The only other statue in Rangoon is
one of H.M. the Queen Empress,
erected in 1895, in Dalhousie S()Qare.
In the N.K comer of the Parade
ground the '^ Jubilee Hall" is nov
in process of erection. Lastly among
public buildings may be mentioned
the Jail in iB.il Road, one of ths
largest in the British Empire, having
accommodation for over 8000 jorisoners.
Permission to inspect the jail may be
obtained by application to the Saper-
intendent. Many dififerent industries
are conducted by the prisoners, and in
the jail salesroom specimens of their
handicraft may be purchased.
(5) The Cantonments and LaJces.—
These afibrd pretty rides and drives,
but the traveller who can obtain no
better means of conveyance than a ticca
gharry will probably not care to drive
far. He should, however, take at least
one drive in Cantonments, say along
Godwin Road, past the Parade groimd
and Race Course, then to the 1. past the
Pegu Club to the Prome Road, then
along Prome Road to Halpin Road (the
" ladies' mile "), along Halpin Road to
the Gymkhana, thence ).iast Government
House alonff Eemmendine Road to the
Great Pagoda, and thence through the
Cantonment gardens and bade by
Voyles Road to the town.
Another drive which should on no
account be omitted is round the Boyal
Lake and through Dalhousie Park.
Those who are prepared to go further
afield oan obtain a very pretty drive
by going along the Prome Road to
the Victoria Lake, which supplies Ban-
goon with water, skirting the lake and
returning by the Kokine Road. By this
road (total distance about 15 m.) they
will pass through miles of pineapple
gardens, among which various pictur-
esque and 8ha(fy rides can be had.
(6) Syriam. —The traveller who has in
afternoon to spare, and who can obtain
the use of one of the numerous steam
launches belonging to the Government
or to any of the local firms, may well pay
a visit to Syriam. This is now a mere
village of some 2000 infaaiyitants, bat
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ROUTE 1. RANGOON TO PEGU
425
was formerly a place of some import-
atice, and is of special interest as being
the site of the earliest European settle-
ments of any importance in Burma.
The town is said to have been estab-
lished in A.D. 787, but little is known
of its history up to the 16th cent., when
it was presented by the king of Arrakan
to Philip de Brito who, with his Portu-
guese, had assisted the king in the
conquest of Pegu. In 1613 Syriam
was besieged and captured by the king
of Ava, aU the Portuguese being either
slain or sent to Upper Burma, where a
few of their descendants exist to this
day;. From 1631 to 1677 the Dutch
maintained a factory at Syriam. The
English also had a factory, which was
re-established in 1698, and destroyed by
the Burmese in 1743. Nothing now
remains of the once flourishing Portu-
guese, Dutch, and English factories
except the substantial ruins of an old
church, some tombs, and the founda-
tions of a few masonry houses. The
Church was built by Monsei^eur
Nerini, the second vicar apostolic of
Ava and Pegu, in the early part of the
18th cent. In 1756 the Bishop was
murdered by Alompra. From that
year until 1760 the mission remained
destitute, and was then removed to
Eangoon. The ruined church is now
buried in the jungle, about i m. from
the landing stage. If the traveller is
accompanied by an interpreter he will
have no diflBculty in finding some one
in the village to show him the way to
the ruins. 6 m. from Syriam is a
large Pagoda standing on a hill, which
affords a fine view.
ROUTE 1
To Mandalay, Bhamo, and the
first defile returning to
Rangoon via Promb
The arrangements for this tour will
depend entirely upon the amount of
time whieh the traveller is prepared to
devote to it. If he has only a few
days at his disposal he will not be able
to do more than proceed to MandcUay
by rail, spend two or three days there,
and return by the same route to
Rangoon. If he has a week at his dis-
posal he may proceed to Mandalay by
rail, stopping an afternoon at FegUf
and may return by steamer to ProTrve,
and thence by rail to Rangoon ; three
weeks will enable him to extend his
tour to BhaTTW ; and a longer period
to go on to the first defile and to break
the return journey at the Ruby Mines^
at Pagan, and at Yenangyaung, A
visit to the Ruby Mines will involve
special arrangements as the mines are
situated about 50 m. from the river
bank, and can only be reached by riding
that distance, the baggage being carried
on mules. Pagan and Yenangyaung
can be more easily managed as they
are near the river bank, but a visit to
either place will involve carrying a
certain amount of camp kit, with food
and cooking arrangements, as there are
no hotels at either place. In the
following paragraphs a few brief
particulars will be given of the
principal places which may be visited
on a somewhat prolonged tour. The
traveller must decide for himself what
to see and what to omit.
The daily mail train to Mandalay
leaves Rangoon (Phayre Street Station)
at about 5.30 P.M. and reaches Man-
dalay at about 4 o'clock on the
following afternoon. The traveller
who wishes to see Pegu should, how-
ever, select a train starting earlier in
the day so as to allow himself a few
hours of daylight at Pegu, after which
he can dine at the railway refreshment
rooms and go on by the night mail to
Mandalay.
46 m. PEGU, sta., a town of 12,000
inhabitants, the headquarters of the
district of that name, is said to have been
founded in 573 A. D. by emigrants from
Thaton, and was once the capital of the
Taking kingdom. It is described by
European travellers of the 16th century
as of great size, strength, and magnific-
ence. It was destroyed by Alompra,
but rebuilt under Boiawpaya. Of lat©
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426
BURMA
India
years the population has very greatly
increased. It is interesting chiefly on
account of its pagodas and a colossal
figure of Gaudama.
The Shwemawdaw Pagoda, said to
contain two hairs of Buddha, is a shrine
of great sanctity. Successive kings
of Burma and Pegu lavished their
treasures on it in repairing and enlarg-
ing it. When originally built it was
only 75 ft. high, but as it now stands
it is about 288 ft. high and about 1360
ft. in circumference at the base. It
was last repaired by Bodawpaya about
100 years ago, and has recently been
regilt under the supervision of the
local elders.
The enormous recumbent figure of
Gaudama, known as the Shwetha-
yaong is close to the railway station
and deserves a visit. It is 181 ft. long,
aud 46 ft. high at the shoulder. Its
history is unknown. Pegu was taken
by Alompra in 1757 a.d., and utterly
destroyed for a generation. In the
meanwhile all remembrance of this
gigantic image was lost. The place on
which it was situated had become deuse
jungle, and the image itself turned into
what appeared to be a jungle-covered
hillock. In 1881 the railway was
being constructed, and laterite was
required for the permanent way. A
local contractor, in searching for
laterite, came across a quantity in the
jungle, and on clearing the place un-
covered the image which has ever since
been an object of veneration. The red
brick is now being gradually encased
in white plaster by the pious. Not far
from this is the Kyaikpun pagoda with
four colossal figures of Buddha, each
about 90 ft. high, seated back to back.
There are many other objects of anti-
quarian interest in Pegu, such as the
Ealyanisima or ancient Hall of Ordina-
tion, in the Zainganaing quarter to
the west of Pegu, founded by King
Damacheti in 1476 a.d., and the
Shweguzale pagoda with its 64 images
of Buddha apparently constructed by
Siamese architects. Near the Kalyani-
sima are 10 large stones covered with
Pali and Taking inscriptions. A good
panoramic view of Pegu and its suburbs
is obtained from the Sbweaon^^Q
pagoda which is situated at the south-
east corner of the city walls. At aboQt
700 yards from the southern laoe is
Jetuvati, the encampment of Alompn
when he beleaguered the town in 1757
A.D. Within the walls are visible the
sites of the palaces of the kings of
Hanthawaddy. Traces of a doaUe
wall and moat may also be seen.
Rejoining the train at about 9 o'clock
the traveller will pass through the
Shwegyin and Toungoo districts of
Lower Burma during the night, and
will in the early morning cross the old
British frontier into the Upper Burma
district of Fyinmana. He will obtain
chota hazri at Fyinmana, a town of
14,000 inhabitants, and breakfist at
Varaethinf the headquarters of the
district of that name. Between
Pjrinmana and Yamethin, and thence
on to Kyaukse, he will see to the E.
the range of hills which divides Burma
from the Shan States, including (to the
S.E. of Yamethin) the triple p^ of
the Byingye range (6000), where it is
proposed to form a sanitarium. The
Kyaukse district is the most fertile
in Upper Burma, an ingenious sysbaa
of irrigation works enabling tibe
cultivator to obtain three or four crops
of rice annually from the same ground.
Here the hills approach much nearer
to the railway, and Kyaukse itself is
picturesquely situated. The train now
crosses a stream, and passing through
Amarapura, a former capital of
Burma, reaches Mandalay at ahoat
four o'clock.
386 m. MANDALAY. :0c sta. The
traveller will find that he can sp«id
several days very pleasantly at Mandalay.
The city contains about 180,000 inhabi-
tants, mostly Burmese, and was from
1860 up till 1885 the capital of the
Burmese kingdom and the residence of
the King. The growth of the city has
been more rapid even than that of
Rangoon, but it was in great part due
to temporary causes, now removed, and
in future it may be expected that the
population of Mandalay will dwindk
rather than increase. The city proper
was in Burmese times within t^e wfljled
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 1. RANGOON TO MANDALAY
427
enclosnre, which is now used as a
Cantonment and called Fort DuffeHn.
A traveller bent on studying the
capital should commence by ascendiog
Mandalay hill, an isolated mound
rising abruptly from the flat plain on
which the city is built. From this point
of vantage he can see spread out like a
great map the town of 180,000 inhabi-
tants, the fort with the palace in the
centre, the temples and monuments
worthy of a royal city, and the system
of irrigation built by King Mindon,
with its great artificial lake and
numerous canals, which look like silver
threads as they carry the water over a
vast area of country easily discernible
in the clear and brilliant light. At
the summit of the hill was formerly a
wooden temple containing a huge
standing figure pointing with his finger
at the palace beneath. Both temple and
figure were recently destroyed by fire.
Fort DuJOTerin will next claim atten-
tion. This great square fort, built to
guard the palace, with sides 1 J m. long,
is enclosed by walls of red brick 26 ft.
high, machicolated at the top to serve
the purpose of loopholes. They are
backed by a mound of earth, so that
defenders can look over them. On
each of the four sides stand, at equal
distances, 13 peculiar and elegant
watch-towers of Burman design, built
of teak and freely ornamented with
gold. One of these, enclosed and en-
larged, forms the nucleus of Govern-
ment House, the residence of the
Chief Commissioner when at Mandalay.
Outside the walls, and surrounding the
fort, is a broad Moat full of water,
100 yds. wide. It is crossed by five
wooden bridges, one in the middle of
3ach side, and an extra one on the W.
face which was formerly reserved for
funeral processions. It abounds with
ish, and at certain seasons of the year
large patches of the surface of the
^ater are covered with the broad
jircular leaves and beautiful pink and
jvhite flowers of the lotus plants, which
tiave their roots at the bottom. On
;his moat, in the King's time, were
jeveral state barges, gilt from stem to
jtem, some of them propelled by as
nany as sixty rowers.
There are 12 gates through the fort
wall, three on each side equally spaced.
In front of each gate stands the wooden
image of a guaraian Twty and a massive
teak post bearing the name and sign of
the gate. It is under or near these
posts that the bodies of the unfortunate
victims rest, who are said to have been
buried alive, in order that their spirits
might watch over the gates.
Exactly in the centre of the fort
stands the royal Palace or Nandaw» A
plan showing the disposition of the
palace buildings at the time of the
annexation will be found in Dr.
Oertel's Notes on a Tour in Burma
(Govt. Press, Rangoon, 1893), from
which work the present description of
the palace has been condensed. The
palace was formerly a square fortified
enclosure, defended by an outer palisade
of teak posts 20 ft. high and an inner
brick wall, with an open esplanade of
about 60 ft. width between them.
This walled square was cut up into
numerous courts surrounded by high
walls, and in the very centre, to make
it as secure as possible, was an inner
enclosure containing the palace. To
the N. and S. of the inner palace
enclosure are two walled-in gardens,
containing royal pavilions, and laid
out with canals, artificial lakes, and
grottoes. The outer stockade and all
the brick walls have now been removed,
as also many of the minor structures ;
the chief palace buildings are, however,
still standing.
Four strongly guarded gates led
through the outer defences. The large
gates were only opened for the King ;
all other people had to squeeze through
the red postern at the side, which
obliged them to bow lowly as they
drew near the royal precincts. Enter-
ing the eastern gate, which is still
standing, one crossed a wide enclosure
which contained a number of subsidiary
buildings, such as the armoury, printing
press, mint, quarters for servants and
guard, the royal monastery. King
Alindon's mausoleum, and the houses
of a few of the highest officials. Be-
yond this was another spacious court in
front of the palace, at the northern end
of which races and sports used to take
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428
BURMA
India
place before the King. In the centre
of this court stands the great hall of
audience, with the lion throne, pro-
jecting out boldly from the face of the
palace, with which it is connected at
the back. The private part of the
palace is behind this, on an elevated
oblong platform in an inner enclosure,
which was entered through two jeal-
ously-giiarded gates on each side of the
hall of audience. At the western end
of the palace platform is a private
audience hall, with the lily throne,
where ladies were received, and between
the two halls of audience are numerous
wooden pavilions, formerly occupied by
the various queens and princesses.
Over the lion throne rises the high
seven-storied gilded spire or shwepya-
that, the external emblem of royalty.
The Burmans used to call this spire the
*' Centre of the Universe," arguing with
true national arrogance that it is the
centre of Mandalay, which is the centre
of Burma, and hence of the world.
In the S. garden is a small pavilion,
used as a summer house by King
Thebaw, on the verandah of which
he surrendered himself to General
Prendergast and Colonel Sladen on
November 29, 1885. A brass tablet
records the fact. The richly-carved
Pongyi Kyaung to the E. of the palace,
where King Thebaw passed the period
of priesthood, is worthy of notice. It
is now used as a Chapel. Hard by is
KingMindon's mausoleum, a brick and
plaster structure, consisting of a square
chamber surmounted by a seven-storied
spire. Mindon Min was buried here in
1878. The palace buildings were for a
time used for barracks and offices, but
they were found unhealthy, and the
troops have been removed to the new
barracks outside. The great hall of
audience is still used by the military
as a church, while the private audience
hall and surrounding buildings afford
accommodation to the Upper Burma
Club.
PAGODAS AND MONASTERIES. —
The whole neighbourhood of Man-
dalay, Amarapura, and Ava is rich with
splendid fanes, of which it would be
impossible to give any detailed account
within the limits of these pages. Some
of the finest monasteries, including the
AtuTiKishif or *' incomparable" monas-
tery, have been burnt down within &e
past few years ; but the " 450 pagodas "
and the Glass Monastery hard by, and
not far from the base of Mandalay hill,
remain, and should be visited, as also
the Queen's GK>lden Monastery in B.
Road and the Arrakan Pagoda.
The 450 Pagodas is a very remarkaUe
work. King Thebaw's uncle, anxious
that the holy books of Buddhism should
be recorded in an enduring form, called
together the most learned of the priests
to transcribe the purest version of the
commandments ; this he caused to he
engraved on 450 large stones of the
same pattern. These stones were set
up in an enclosed square, and over
each was erected a small domed build-
ing to preserve it from the weather.
The enclosure is about i m. square,
surrounded by a high wall with
ornamental gates ; in the centre stands
a temple of the usual form.
The Glass Monastery, so called from
the profusion of inlaid glass work
with which the interior and exterior
are decorated, is close by, and in the
neighbourhood also is the monastery
of the Thathanabaingf or Buddhist
Archbishop, to whom flie traveller may
be disposed to pay the compliment of a
visit. The Queen's Golden Monasteiy
in B. Road is now probably the hand-
somest building of the kind in Burma.
It is built of teak in the ordinary
form, but is profusely decorated with
elaborate carving, and is heavily gilt
within and without. The traveller
should ask permission from one of the
yellow-robed fraternity, of -whom he
will be sure to find some in the court-
yard, to inspect the interior of this
monastery. His next visit may be to
the Mahd My at Mun% or ''Airakas
Pagoda." The Maha Myat Moni
pagoda is rendered especially sacred
by the great sitting image of Gandanw
there preserved, and is on this account
regarded by Upper Burmans as not
inferior in sanctity to the Shwedagon
itself. The huge brass image, 12 ft in
height, was brought over the hills from
Akyab in 1784. The image was origin-
Digitized byLjOOQlC
ttOUTB 1. RAlJCkX)X to MANbALAt
420
ally set up, i6 says Shway Yoe, quot-
ing the ancient legend, during the life-
time of the great master. The utmost
skill and most persistent energy had
failed in fitting the parts together, till
the Buddha perceiving from afar, what
was going on, and ever full of pity,
came himself to the spot, and embrac-
ing the image seven times, so joined
together the fragments that the most
sceptical eye cannot detect the points
of junction. So like was the image, and
so sublime the effulgence which shone
around during the manifestation, that
the reverently-gazing crowd could not
determine which was the model and
which was the master. The resem-
blance has no doubt faded away with
the wickedness of later times, for, un-
like most Burmese images, this paya
has most gross and repmsive features.
The shrine in which it stands is one
of the most splendid in the country.
The image itself is covered by a great
seven - roofed pyathat with goodly
pillars, the ceiling gorgeous with
mosaics. Long colonnades, supported
on 252 massive pillars, all richly gilt
and carved with frescoed roof and sides,
lead up to it. All day long circles of
constantly-renewed worshippers chant
aloud the praises of the Buddha, and
the air is thick with the effluvia of
candles and the odours from thousands
of smouldering incense sticks. Within
the precincts of the pagoda is a large
tank tenanted by sacred turtle, who
wax huge on the rice and cakes thrown
to them by multitudes of pilgrims.
Probably not even at the Shwedagon
pagoda is more enthusiastic devotion
shown than here.
A great Bazaar is situated in the
centre of the population. Grain and
vegetable vendors, silversmiths, toy,
umbrella, and lacquer makers, silk
merchants, and numerous other traders
occupy streets of stalls. Burmese
ladies in the usual tight-fitting petti-
coat of gay silk and white jacket,
attended by a maid, may be seen
making their daily household pur-
chases ; groups of girls with flowers
in their hair and huge cigars in their
mouths, price the sUks of which all
Bnrmans are so fond. Many strangers
to the city, come on business or
pleasure, wander about deeply inter-
ested in the display on the stalls.
Nowhere else can be seen gathered
together representatives of so many
widely - separated and little - known
tribes, differing in dress, and forming
a babel of languages. Chins from the
western mountains, Shans from the
east, Kachins from the north, and
Chinese from the little -known in-
land borders of the Empire, all meet
here ; and Sikhs, Goorkhas, Madrassis,
with many other tribes from India,
are amongst the motley throng.
Everywhere there is colour and move-
ment, and the scene is as lively as it
is uncommon. The bazaar well de-
serves a visit, and is, indeed, the best
place in Burma for the purchase of
silks. Curious old specimens of silver
work may also sometimes be picked up
there at moderate prices.
[After exploring Mandalay proper,
short excursions should be made to
Yankintaung, to Amarapura, to
Sagaing and Ava, and to MiTignn.
The hills called Yankintaimg are
about 5 m. due E. from Mandalay,
and as the road is not practicable for
carriages, the traveller should ride.
There are a number of pagodas and
monasteries, and a deep fissure in the
ffround containing an image of Gau-
dama and other curious objects. The
foundations of the colossal paeoda
which Mindon Min commenced here
may also be examined.
Amarapura, which is a few miles to
the S. of Mandalay, can be reached by
rail. It was until 1860 the capital of
the Burmese kingdom, and is fully
described in Yule's Mission to Ava.
Only the ruins of the ancient capital
now remain, but they are interesting,
and well worthy of a visit.
Sagaing and Ava can also be readily
visited by rail. Ava was the prede-
cessor of Amarapura as the capital of
Burma. Little trace now remains of
the city of Ava, but on both sides of
the river are hundreds of pagodas of
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430
BURMA
IndU
every variety and degree of decoratiou.
There is the J^agayon paya^ the whole
building wrought into the form of
a dragon ; the huge round • domed
Kaunghnmdaw, a few miles out of
Sagaing ; '' glistening white pinnacles
or flashing gold spires on the Sagaing
hills, and on the Amarapura side great
massy temples frowning over the river
with all the stem solidity of a knightly
hold, each with its legend — some tale
of bloodshed or piety, some event in
Burmese history, or birth stoi-y of the
Buddha."
Sagaing is now the headquarters of
the Commissioner of the southern
division of Upper Burma and of the
Deputy Commissioner of the Sagaing
district. The traveller who wishes to
explore the pagodas of Sagaing and Ava
should endeavour to obtain an intro-
duction to one of these officials.
The last of the excursions near
Mandalay deserving special mention is
that to Mingun, about 9 m. above
Mandalay. The up -steamers of the
Irrawadoy Flotilla Company call there,
but the down-steamers do not, unless
by special arrangement. Mingun is
picturesquely situated, and is interest-
ing for its great unfinished pagoda and
for its huge bell. The groundwork of the
great misshapen Mingun pagoda covers
a square of 450 ft., and its height is
155 ft, about one-third of the elevation
intended for it when completed ; but
Mintayagyi, the crack-brained monarch
who founded it, ran short of funds,
and the buildinff was stopped. In
1839 an earthquake rent the gigantic
cube, the largest mass of brickwork in
the world, with fantastic fissures from
top to bottom, and cast down great
masses of masonry, tons in weight.
Overlooking the river, in front of the
eastern face of the temple, stood two
gigantic leogryphs in brick. These
figures were originally 95 ft. high, and
each of the white marble eyeballs
intended for the monsters measured
13 ft. in circumference. The leogryphs
are now in ruins. N. of the temple,
on a low circular terrace, stands the
biggest bell in Burma — the biggest in
the world, probably, after the one at
Moscow. It is slung on a tiiple beam
of great size, resting on two tiers of
brickwork, enclosing massiye frames
of teak. The bell does not now swing
free. The supports were so mach
shaken by the earthquake that it was
found necessary to put props under
the bell. Of course, no tone can now
be got out of it. The diameter of the
bell at the lip is 16 ft. , and its heigbt
12 ft. Its weight is about 80 tons.
There are other cuiious pagodas in tk
neighbourhood. ]
The traveller who has time to pro-
ceed farther N. may either take one of
the Irrawaddy Flotilla steamers wbicb
leave Mandalay every Monday and
Thursday for Bhamo^ or he may take
the train. In the latter case he will
be able to reach Myitkyina, 724 m.
from Eangoon. The steamer route to
Bhamo and back (2^ days up and 1^
day down) is recommended. The
steamers are well fitted, and the scenery
is fine. Passing Sheinmaga on the
rt., and Singu and Kyaukmyaung
on the 1., the steamer passes through
the third defile to Thabeikkyin and
Kyanhnyat. Tigyaing on the L
bank is prettily situated on a hill
Eatha is next passed on the L It
is the headquarters of the district of
that name. The pagodas of Shwegn
next come into sight on the rt., and
the steamer then passes through the
second defile to Bhamo.
The defiles of the river, as Bhamo is
approached, are very fine. The wide
stream narrows to 1000 yds. and flows
for 30 m. through a chain of hills
covered with splendid foliage. The
successive reaches of the river resemble
lakes, being apparently shut in on all
sides. Beyond the hills is a plain,
and then another defile through a
second chain of hills, which is even
finer than the last. The river narrows
to 200 or 300 yds. and rushes through
the gap with great velocity. This de-
file extends for 5 m., and in one place
a rock rises straight out of the water
to a height of 600 ft.
There is not much to be seen at
Bhamo, but the place is of interest as
being the highest station on the Irra-
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ROUTE 1. RANGOON TO BHAMO
431
?;
Waddy held by British troops, and the
nearest point on the Irra waddy to the
Chinese frontier. Several trade routes
from Yunnan converge on Bhamo, and
the importance of the place may be
expectea to increase, if the recent
arrangements for the encouragement
of trade between Western China and
Burma prove successful. The Bhamo
district is chiefly inhabited by Kachins,
wild hill men, who, in Burmese times,
were practically independent, and
were a constant source of terror to the
caravans passing between Bhamo and
China. The Kachins are now gradually
being reduced to order, and the trade
routes are at present comparatively safe.
During certain times of the year the
Irrawaddy Flotilla Company run a small
steamer from Bhamo to M3ritkyma.
By taking this steamer, the first defile,
which is perhaps the finest of the
three, can be seen. Myitkyina itself
jossesses no features of special interest.
t will ultimately be connected with
Mandalay by railway, and when this
takes place its importance will no
doubt increase, as it will then attract
caravans from China, who will find
through Myitkyina their readiest
approach to the markets of Burma.
West of Myitkyina are the jade and
amber mines, but these are not at
present accessible to travellers.
In order to visit the Buby Mines
it will be necessary to break either
the upward or the downward journey
between Mandalay and Bhamo at
Thabeikkyin. A good road connects
Thabeikkyin with Mogok (50 m.), the
centre of the Ruby Mines district, and
the journey is worth undertaking if the
traveller is able to make the necessary
arrangements for ponies and mules.
The journey can be performed by easy
stages as there are Government Rest
Houses (roughly furnished) at every 10
or 12 m. along the road. The road
passes through fine mountain scenery,
and the traveller cannot fail to be
interested in observing the primitive
methods of mining followed by the
Burmese, as well as the more civilised
but hitherto not too successful opera-
tions of the Englisli Company.
Having returned to Mandalay, the
traveller should now proceed by Irra-
waddy Flotilla steamer to Prome (3
days), stopping en routCj if practicable,
at Nyaungu for Pagans and at "Yenang-
yaung for a visit to the oil wells. After
passing Sagaing, the headquarters of
the central division, the steamer calls
at Myingyan and Pakokku, both large
towns and headquarters of British
districts. At Myingyan troops are
cantoned. Pakokku is the base for
the Chin Hills, and is a thriving and
rapidly-growing city.
Nyaungu is situated about 120 m.
below Mandalay, on the eastern
bank of the river, and is interest-
ing both as being the principal place
for the manufacture of the celebrated
Burmese lacquer work,^ and as being
the nearest halting-place to old Pagan,
the capital of Burma from the
9th to the 13th century. There is a
Government Rest House at Nyaungu,
permission to occupy which should be
obtained from the Deputy Commis-
sioner of Myingyan, and the traveller,
who wishes to make anything like a
detailed examination of the extensive
and very interesting remains in the
immediate neighbourhood, should ar-
range to remain at least two days there.
A pretty full description of tl^e pagodas
at Pagan will be found m Yule's
E^nhassy to Ava, if the traveller should
be fortunate enough to obtain a copy
of that work. A very brief account
(taken chiefly from Yule) of some of
the principal monuments is all that
can be given here.
The Pagan ruins extend over
a space about 8 m. in length along
the river, and averaging about 2
m. in breadth. The brick rampart
and fragments of an ancient gate-
way, showing almost obliterated traces
of a highly architectural character,
are the only remains which are not of
a religious description. The total
number of temples was roughly
estimated by Yule at from 805 to
1000. All kinds and forms are to be
1 A full description of the process of manu-
facture will be found in chap, xxvii. of TM
Burman by Shway Yoe.
Digitized
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432
^URMA
tndu
found among them; the bell-shaped
pyramid of brickwork in all its
varieties ; the same raised over a
square or octagonal cell containing an
image of Buddha ; the bluff knob-like
dome of the Ceylon dagobas ; the
fantastic Bopaya, or Pumpkin pagoda,
and many variations on these types.
But the predominant and characteristic
form is that of the cruciform, vaulted
temple, certain specimens of which
portions on each face, so that it
measures 280 ft. across each way. It
is seven stories in height ; six of these
are square and flat, each diminishing,
in extent, so as to give the whole a
pyramidal form ; the seventh, which is,
or simulates, the cell of the temple,
takes the form of a Hindu or Jain
temple, the whole in this instanee
rising to the height of 183 ft Inter-
nally the building is extremely solid,
Plan of the Ananda Temple (from Yule). Scale 100 ft. to 1 in.
will be described farther on. Three
at least of the great temples, and a
few of the smaller ones, have been from
time to time repaired, and are still
more or less frequented by worshippers ;
but by far the greater number have
been abandoned to the owls and bats,
and some have been desecrated into
cow-houses by the villagers. The three
principal temples are the Ananda, the
Thapinyu, and the Gaudapalin. The
Ananda, as will be seen from the
annexed plan, is a square of nearly 200
ft. on each side, with projecting
being intersected only by two narrow
concentric corridors ; but in rear of
each projecting transept is a niche,
artificially lighted from above, in which
stands a statue of Buddha, more than ^
30 ft. in height. These four great
statues represent the four Buddhal
who have appeared in the present
world period ; the image to the E. is
Kankathan, that to the W., Kathaba,.
that to the N., Gaudama, and that to
the S., Ganugun. They are all richly
gilt. The Ananda is supposed to have
been built in the, 11th century, in thft
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ROUTE 1. RANGOON TO BHAMO
433
i«icpn of Kyanyittha. General Phayre
derives its name from the Sanskrit
Ananta, "The Endless."
Next in importance is the Thapinyn
(the Omniscient), erected about the year
1100 by the grandson of Kyanyittha,
and third is the Oaudapalin, built in
1160. These two temples are of very
similar form, but the Thapinyu is con-
siderably larger than the Gaudapalin.
The height of the Thapinyu is 201 ft.,
covered with niches, be^rin^ seated
Gaudamas and interspersed with orna-
mental panels and mouldings.
Among the temples which have fallen
out of repair may be mentioned the
Dhamayangyi and the Sinbyoku. The
former resembles the Ananda in general
plan and design. The latter is in its
details perhaps the most beautiful of
any. For a description of these and for
further details regarding the remains
Plan of Thapinyu (from Tale). Scale 100 ft. to 1 in.
that of the Gaudapalin 180 ft. They
differ from the Ananda in having each
only one porch instead of four, and
consequently only one great statue in
its cell instead of four standing back
to back. A plan of the Thapinyu is
given above.
One other important temple within
the city walls has been kept in repair.
It is known as the Bodhif and is be-
lieved to have been erected in 1200.
It is different in style from the other
temples. The basement is a (]^uad-
rangular block of no great height,
supporting a tall spire, strongly re-
sembling many of the ancient Hindu
temples. Both base and spire are
\l7idia\
at Paean the traveller must be referred
to Yule. They are full of interest both
to the antiquarian and the architect
Above and around Nyaungu are many
more temples and some underground
caves formerly inhabited by monks,
which well deserve inspection. One
of the principal temples above Nyauneu
(the Kyankkn temple) has been fully
described by the late Dr. Forchhammer
in a monograph published by the
Burma Govt. Press in 1891. Pagan
ceased to be a capital in 1284 a.d.
The Emperor of China had sent a
vast army to avenge the murder of
an ambassador. The Burmese king
pulled down 1000 arched temples, 1000
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4S4
BURMA
Indk
sraaller ones, and 4000 sqnwe temples,
to Btrengthen the fortifKsatioDs. Bat
a prophecy found nnder one of the
deeecrated shriiies robbed him of his
courage and he fled to the S., and
ever since Pagan has remained in its
present practically deserted state.
The Irrawaddy just below Pagan
widens ont Uke a gigantic lake to over
2 m. in breadth, and the view of the
sacred city obtained from the steamer
is particularly fine.
Continuiug his course down stream
past Salemyo, the traveller will shortly
reach Yenangyanng, on the £. bank,
and, here again, if time allows, and the
necessary arrangements have been made,
a halt is desirable. The oil wells are
situated about 3 m. from the river
bank, and well deserve a visit. A
number of wells are being successfully
worked by steam power on the American
system by the Burma Oil Company,
while, in the neighbourhood, the Bur-
mese continue to extract oil in smaller
quantities by the primitive methods,
which have been in use among them
for generations. The traveller who is
interested in the subject should supply
himself at the Govt Press before leaving
Rangoon with a copy of Dr. Noetling's
exhaustive report on the oil wells of
Yenangyaung.
The principal places of call below
Yenangyaung are Magwe and Minbu,
both headquarters of British districts ;
MinJUay where there is an old Burmese
fort, which was the scene of a brief
fight in the last Burmese war, and
^Huiyetmyot a military station, formerly
of some importance as the frontier
station of British Burma. At Thayet-
myo and thence to Prome t^e river
scenery is good. At Prome, unless he
prefers to complete the joumev to
Rangoon by river, which he can do in
3 days, the traveller will leave his
steamer, and return to Rangoon by
train (9 hours).
FBOHE, now a town of about
30,000 inhabitants, and the head-
quarters of the district of that name, is
a very ancient city, and is mentioned
as the capital of a great kingdom before
the Christian era. The town extends I«\
from the foot of the Prome hills to the
bauk of the Nawin, with a suburb oi
the otiier side of that streano, and £
for some distance up the Nawin vallej.
On the bank of the river, on .the higk
ground, opposite the centre of the towi^
are the Grovernment Offices, the Public
Gardens, the Anglican Church, and thi
Jubilee Clock Tower. The Strand Boai
extends from one end of the town t«
the other, and from it well • laid • out
streets run E., and are intersected it
right angles by others. N. of tin
high laterite ground, on which in
the Law Courts, and under the hi^
bauK, a sand - bank stretches up to
the mouth of the Nawin, under
water in the rains, but covered with
brokers' huts in the dry weather, when
a fleet of merchant boats is moored
along it, of which many are laden with
Ngapi, or fish paste, the odour of
which pervades the whole Nawio
(quarter. Here, on the high bank, a
little inland, and on the inner side of
the Strand, are the Markets.
The Shwesandaw Pagoda is on a
hill i a m. from the L bank of the
Irrawaddy, and covers an area of
11,925 sq. ft., rising from a nearly
square platform to a height of 180
ft. It is surrounded by 83 small
gilded temples. These unite at tbar
bases, and form a wall round the
pagoda, leaving a narrow passage
Between it and them. There are 4
approaches to the platform on whid
the pagoda stands. The N. and W.
are covered in with ornamented roo6,
supported on massive teak posts, some
partly gilded and partly painted
vermilion. The platform on ^
top of the hill is paved with straw
slabs, and round its outer edge ai«
carved wooden houses, facing inwards,
interspersed with small pagodas, in
which are figures of Gaudama, standing
sitting, or fying. Between these and
the main pagoda are many Tagondting
posts with streamers, and many largi
bells. The pagoda has 2 gigantic lioBi
of the usual conventional form at tb«
N. entrance. In 175S a.d. this pagoda
was re-gilt by Alompra; in 1841,
King Tharrawaddy had it repaired
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ROUTE 2. RANGOON TO MOULMEIN
436
aod re-gilt, and sunnounted with a new
Ti, or crown of iron, gilt and studded
irith jewels ; in 1842, the carved
WO& over the N. and W. approaches
were put up by the Governor.
In 1858 the pagoda was again put
in repair at a cost of 76,800 rs.,
raised by public subscription, and
subsequently it was re-gilt at a cost
of 26,000 rs. The annual festival,
when the pagoda is visited by
thousands of pious Buddhists, is
held in March.
The Shwenattaung Pagoda.— This
pagoda, 16 m. S. of Prome, richly
gilt, and glittering in the sun, stands
out conspicuously on the first hill of
a low range, overhanging the Shwe-
nattaun^ plain, and has, in a line
behind it, several other pagodas, all
which may be visited by the traveller,
if not already tired with buildings
of the kind. The Shwenattaung is
said to have been built during the
reign of the founder of Prome by his
Queen. It was repaired and raised
by Thihathu, King of Prome, and
again in the 16th century by Tabin-
shweti, King of Toungoo, who had
conquered Prome.
Prome is celebrated for its gold
lacquer work, small specimens of
which may be purchased for a few
rupees.
The mail train leaves Prome at
9 o'clock at night, and reaches
Rangoon at about 6 o'clock on the
following morning.
ROUTE 2
From Rangoon to Moulmein, with
POSSIBLE extension TO TavOY
AND MeRGUI
MOULMEIN, 3^ the second largest
nty of Burma, is one of the pretdest
spots in the province, and deserves
a visit. It is reached in about 8
hrs. from B^ngoon, by the steamers
of the B.I.S.N. Co., which saU three
times a week, starting at about
7 in the morning. It is the head-
quarters of the Amherst district, and
of the Tenasserim division. It is
situated on the 1. bank of the Salween,
at its junction with the Gyaing and
the Attaran. Immediately to the W.
is Bilugyun, an island 107 sq. m. in
extent. To the N., on the opposite
bank of the Salween, is Martaban,
once the capital of a kingdom, but
now a moderate-sized village. Low
hills, forming the N. end of the
Taungenyo range, run N. and S.
through Moulmein, dividing it into
2 distinct portions, which touch each
other at the N. base of the hills on
the bank of the Gyaing. These are
crowned at intervals with pagodas
in various stages of preservation,
from the dark brick grass - covered
and tottering relic with its rusty and
falling Ti, to the white and gold
restored edifice, gleaming in the sun-
light, and with monasteries richly
ornamented with gilding, colour, and
carved work.
On the W. are 4 out of the 5
diviEdons of the town, which extends
N., between the Salween and the
hills from Mopun, with its steam
mills for husking rice, and timber
and ship - building yards, to the
military cantonment on the point
formed by the junction of the Gyaing
and the Salween opposite Martaban,
a distance of 6 m. The breadth no-
where exceeds 1200 yds. The vie'w
from the hills in the centre of the
town is of great beauty, probably
unsurpassed in all Burma. W. the
foreground is occupied by trees of
every shade of foliage, from the dark
olive of the mango to the light
green of the pagoda tree, varied by
the graceful plumes of the bamboo
with buildings showing here and there,
and the magnificent sheet of water
beyond, studded with green islands,
among which stands ont conspicuously
the little rocky Gaungsekwin, com-
pletely occupied by white and glitter-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
436
BURMA
Indu
ing pagodas, and m monastery sheltered
by trees,, and ih the distance are the
forest • clad hills of Bilugyun and
Martaban. K at the foot of the
hills is a large and regularly laid oat
town, on the edge of a rice plain,
from which, beyond the Attaran, rise
isolated, fantastically shaped ridges
of limestone, in part bare, and else-
where with jagged peaks, partially
concealed by straggUng clumps of
vegetation, and in the extreme distance
a faint blue outline of the frowning
Dawna hills. To the N. are the
Zwekabin rocks of limestone, 13 m.
long, while to the S. rise the dark
Taungwaing hills, their sombre colour
relieved by a glistening white pa^a
and monasteries on their side ; wind-
ing through the plain like silver
ba^ds are the Gyaing and Attaran.
The population of Moulmein is
about 56,000. It formerly rivalled
Rangoon in population and trade,
but has now fallen far behind. In
1892-93 the trade of the port was
valued at rs. 33,000,000. Moulmein
is largely dependent on the timber
trade, and obtains its teak mainly
from Earenni and ChiengmaL The
forests have been overworked, and
the supply of timber is falling ofif.
Moulmein is noted for carving on
wood, ivory, and cocoa-nut shell. The
show-room of the jail is worth a visit.
The traveller will no doubt visit some
of the pagodas and monasteries which
abound here as elsewhere in Burma,
and if he visits the Kyaikthanlan
Pagoda, should notice the bi^ bell
wiui its quaint English inscnption,
"This Bell is made by Koonalenga,
the priest, and weight 600 viss. No one
body design to destroy this Bell.
Moulmein, March 30, 1855. He who
destroyed to this Bell, they must be
in the great Heell, and unable to
coming out" This is probably the
only 1^11 in Burma bearing an English
inscription. The pagoda is the largest
in Moulmein, and is 152 ft. high and
377 ft. in circumference. It is said to
have been originally erected about 1000
years ago.
The only other pagoda deserving
special mention is the Usina, or south
pagoda, in the precincts of wliieb as
some remarkably well carved figures 4
life-size, representing the three object^
the sight of which determined Gandinx
to become a hermit, namely, a decrepi
old man leaning on a staff, a mai
suffering from a loathsome disease
and a putrid corpse. There are alai
figures of an old man and woman, mi
one of a recluse in yellow garment^
with features expressive of content-
ment and absence of worldly cait
The figures are startlingly life-like.
The traveller should not leave Moil*
mein without paying a visit to som
at least of the Caves in the nei^bour-
hood. The principal caves are—
1. The Farm eaves, about 10 m. froi
Moulmein on the Attaran river.
2. The Domumatha caves, 18 m. fnn
Moulmein on the Gyaing river.
3. The Pagat caves on the Salwea
river, 26 m. from Moulmein.
4. The Kogun caves on the Kogm
creek near Pagat, 28 m. from Moul-
mein.
5. T?ie Bingyi eaves on the Don
dami, 51 m. from Moulmein.
All of these, except the last named
are within an easy day's journey o^
Moulmein, there and back by steam
launch ; but none of them are mofi
visited except the Farm caves, of whid
a brief description, condensed from w
article by Major Temple in the India*
Antiquary for December 1893, will now
be given. For a description of the re-
maining caves, reference should be
made to the above article.
The best way of visiting the Fara
caves is to take a hackney carriage
to the Nyaungbinzeik ferry on tie
Attaran river, about 4 m., then to
cross the ferry, and thence proceed
the remaining 4 m. by bullock-cart
The caves are a favourite resort fct
picnic parties, both of the Europetf
and of the native population, and tbeie
is no difficulty about the journey. Tb«
Burmese name is Kayun. The ca^
are situated in isolated hills of lii*
stone, which rise picturesquely a^^
abruptly out of the surrounding alluvit
plain. They were evidently excavaW
by the sea, and are full of stalactiW
and stalagmites. The principal caT«
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ltOU*CB 3. RANaOON TO KIAUKPTU ANl> AKTAB
437
ioittists of an entrance -hall running
mrallel with the face of the rock, a
ong hall running into the rock at the
i, end, and a subsidiary entrance and
lall at the N. end. Along these halls
on brick and plaster platforms erected
or images of Gaudama and his wor-
hippers. Near the S. entrance, and
n the entrance-hall, are small pagodas,
nd near the N. entrance is a ti of inter-
sting construction. The whole of the
aves were clearly at one time crammed
rith images of ail sizes, materials, and
ges, as are to-day some of the caves
urther from Moulmein. Many of
hese have been destroyed. There
emain, however, several huge recum-
bent figures of Gaudama, one measur-
ng 45 ft. in length, and others not
auch less, sitting figures of various
izes, and small figures, mostly muti-
itcd. Some of the stalactites have
teen ornamented, and all over the
ides of the cave and its roof are signs
f former ornamentation with small
mages of plaster, painted white and
ed, and made of terra -cotta. The
•est preserved of them are high up on
he S. wall at the deep end of the
•rincipal hall, where a number of
worshippers are represented kneeling
pposite one of the huge recumbent
randamas, and in the roof near the
ntrance.
From Moulmein the traveller may,
f he pleases, extend his journey to
"avoy and Mergui^ to which places
he B. I. S. N. Co. run a weekly
teamer. Unless, however, he is pro-
Beding to the Straits he will prob-
bly find that this journey will occupy
lore time than he can devote to it.
!avo7, the headquarters of the district
f that name, is a town of 16,000 in-
abitants, on the Tavoy river, about
0 m. from its mouth. The town lies
)w, and parts of it are fiooded at high
ide, and swampy during the rains,
t is laid out in straight streets, and
be houses are, for the most part, built
f timber or bamboo. To the E. and
V^. ranges of hills run nearly due N.
nd S., and the surrounding land is
nder rice cultivation. Tavoy con-
uns court-houses, a custom-house,
and the usual public ofiices, besides
numerous pagodas and monasteries of
no special interest. Its trade is of
little importance, and is carried on
chiefly with ports in Burma and the
Straits Settlements.
The trip from Tavoy to Mergui is in-
teresting, inasmuch aa it passes through
the Mergui archipelago — a large ^oup
of islands which, commencing in the N.
with Tavoy island, stretches southwards
beyond the limits of British territory
in Burma. They have been described
as '*a cluster of islands and islets with
bays and coves, headlands and high-
lands, capes and promontories, high
blufl*s and low shores, rocks and sands,
fountain streams and cascades, moun-
tain, plain, and precipice, unsurpassed
for their wild fantastic and pictures€^ue
beauty." They are but sparsely m-
habited, and are the resort of a peculiar
race, the Selungs, who rarely leave
them to visit the mainland. The prin-
cipal products are edible birds' nests
and Mckes de mer. The islands are
infested by snakes and wild animals.
Mergui itself, the chief town of the
district of that name, stands on an
island in the principal mouth of the
Tenasserim river, which falls into the
Bay of Bengal about 2 m. N. of the
town. It has a population of 10,000,
consisting of many races. It promises
to acquire additional importance from
the recent discovery of valuable pearl
beds in its immediate vicinity. Tin
mining is also carried on in the southern
part of the district The traveller
who can spare the time should inspect
the pearl-diving and the mining opera-
tions. The town itself contains little
of special interest
ROUTE 3
Rangoon to Kyaukpyu and
Akyab
The traveller who desires to see
something of the An-akan division, or
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^UftllA.
tniid
who ifl proceeding from Rangoon to
Calcutta, and has a week to spare, may
proceed by B.I.S.N. Co/s steamer
(weekly) to Kyankpyn and Akjrab.
Kyaukpyn is the headquarters of
the district of that name. It was
formerly a British cantonment, but the
troops have been withdrawn, and it is
now a place of little interest or import-
ance. It is situated in the lf« of
Ramri island, and the town lies olose
to the seashore, upon a sandy plain,
bounded on the S. W. by a low range
of sandstone hills, which breaks the
severity of the monsoon. The whole
tract is lined with mangrove jund.es,
and the place is very unhealthy. The
town contains the usual public build-
ings, but nothing of special interest.
Akjrab is a place of more importance,
and is the headquarters of the Arrakan
division, and the third seaport of
Burma. Ori^nally a Magh fishing
village, Akyab dates its prosperity from
the time when it was chosen as the
chief station of the AiTakan province
at the close of the first Burmese war
(1826). It has now a population of
40,000, and a trade amounting in 1892-
93 to 8,000,000 rs. It contains the
usual public buildings and several
large rice mills. A pleasant excursion
may be made to Hyohaung, the ancient
capital of Arrakan, 50 miles up the
Kaladan river, where the remains of
the old town are still to be seen. The
ruins of the ancient fort still exist, with
traces of the massive city wall and the
platform on which the old palace stood.
The antiquarian will find that
Myohaung is full of interest, as also,
if he has time to visit it, the Mahamnni
pagoda, some 48 m. farther 'S, For
a description of these remains he is
referred to the reports of the late Dr.
Forchhammer, which were issued by
the Burma Govt. Press in 1891, and can
no doubt be procured in Rangoon.
The Andaw Shitthaung and Duk-
hanthein pagodas, with their dark
passages, images, and inscriptions, and
the Pittekatfdk or ancient depository
of the Buddhist scriptures, are amons
the most interesting to the casual
visitor of the remains at Myohaang.
All are ftilly described by FoicE-
hammer. A trip may also be made hj
river steamer to Paletwa, the heui-
quarters of the Arrakan hill tncta
oistriot, which is inhabited by
Chaungthas, Shandus, Kwemis, Cbifis
Mros, and other strange hill tribea
ROUTE 4
Feom Rangoon to Basseik ahd
BACK
This trip can be made with ease and
comfort in one of the steamers of the
Irrawaddy Flotilla CJompany, which
leave for Bassein three or four times t
week, and may be of interest to tiiose
who wish to see something of the lower
reaches of the Irrawaddy, and of the
mode of life of the thriving people of
the delta. It may be extended to
Hensada and other river stations,
according to the time which the traveller
has at his disposal. All necessary
information about times of starting,
places of call, etc., will be readily
obtainable at the office of the Irrawadcnr
Flotilla (Company on the Strand Boad,
Rangoon.
Bassein is a town of about 30,000
inhabitants and the headquarters of
the Irrawaddy division. On the left
bank of the nver on a slight eminence
stands the Shwemvdaw pagoda, nov
in the centre of a fort constructed \st
the English, within the walls of whki!
are the court houses and a polis
garden. To the E. is the Myothil
quarter, with two principal streets
running through it E. ana W. aboat
a mile in length, terminating in i
plain covered with pagodas, rest-housei
monasteries, and massive images in il
stages of decay, where the inhabitaiiti
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ttOtJ*E 6. VP THli dHtNbWiN to ttlNbA*
439
dissemble for their religious festivals.
JLcross the river is the Thinbawgyin
suburb, containing the rice mills and
store yards of the principal merchants.
There are two fine markets and a large
jail besides the usaal public buildings.
The principal pagodas are the Shwe-
Tnokdmv said to have been originally
erected by Asoka a few years after the
death of Gaudama; the TagoAing
pagoda, the Thayawagyaung pagoda,'
sina the Mahahawdi pagoda.
ROUTE 6
Up the Chindwin to Kindat
This trip will take up a good deal of
time, and as it contains little of special
interest it is not likely to be under-
taken by the ordinary traveller. It
may be performed by- Irrawaddy
Flotilla steamer from Pakokku, a port
of call some 80 m. below Mandalay.
The river scenery is good but not
specially remarkable. Kindat is the
headquarters of the Upper Chindwin
district, but is not otherwise a place
of any importance.
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CEYLON
The traveller who can choose his own
season for visiting Ceylon is warned
that March and April are the hottest
months in the year ; June and August
the wettest (on the W. coast) ; and
December and Janiuiry the most dis-
agreeable (on that coast) on account of
the ** Long-shore wind."
The area of the Island is 25,000 sq.
ra., and the pop. over 3,000,000, of
whom over 2,000,000 are Cingalese,
800,000 Tamils, and less than 6000
pure-bred Europeans.
The Currency of the Island is rupees,
divided, not into annas as in India, but
into cents. The nominal value of 1 r.
is 2s. The actual value fluctuates be-
tween Is. 5d. and Is. Id.
Rupee. Annas, India. Gents, Ceylon.
1 = 16 = 100
Silver .4 = 8= 50
Silver . | = 4 = 25
History. — The Portuguese landed on
the Island in 1505, and soon built a
factory at Colombo, which in 1518
they protected by a fort They were
almost constantly at war with the
natives, and were several times foiled
in their endeavours to establish them-
selves at Kandy. The Dutch first
landed in Ceylon in 1602, at Bat-
ticaloa on the £. coast, and entered
into friendly relations with the native
government. In 1638 they com-
menced active operations against the
Portuguese, in alliance with tne natives.
The war lasted to 1658, when the Dutch
remained masters of the situation. They
erected the fort at Colombo, which was
then a very important work, but has
now been aemolished, with the excep-
tion of some few batteries on the sea face.
The Dutch were expelled by the Eng-
lish in 1796. The Maritime Provinces
were attached to the Madras Presidency
for two years, after which Ceylon be-
came a (iown Colony.
Travelling in Ceylon is, for the
most part, comparatively easy. The
roads are everywhere excellent, and
the Rest- Houses are far more comfort-
able places of abode than the corre-
sponding institutions in India. In the
larger towns, such as Badulla, Ratna-
pura, Matara, and at some of the sta-
tions on the great north road they are,
in all but name, hotels ; but the traveller
is not allowed to remain in them more
than two days. On all the principal
roads, they are usually provided with
bed and table-linen, baths, tea and
dinner-services, etc. This is not, how-
ever, the case at those on the less-fre-
quented roads, where the B. Hs. often
ramish little more than shelter. The
coaches are usually crowded, and those
who can afford to do so are strongly
recommended to hire a special coach,
which can usually be done at a reason-
able rate and witn little difficulty.
'*It is impossible to exaggerate the
natural beauty of Ceylon. Belted with
a double girdle of golden sands and
waving paun-groves, the interior is one
vast green garaen of nature, delicionsly
disp<^ed into plain and highland,
valley and peak, where almost every-
thing grows known to the tropi(»l
world, under a sky glowing with an
equatorial sun, yet temperea by the
cool sea -winds. Colombo itself, out-
side the actual town, is a perfect laby-
rinth of shady bowers and flowery
streams and lakes. For miles ami
miles you drive about under arbours
Digitized by VjOOQIC
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Drives
441
of feathery bamboos, broad - leaved
bread - fruit trees, talipot and areca
I>alins, cocoa-nut groves, and stretches
of rice-helds, cinnamon, and sugar-cane,
amid which at ni^ht the fire-flies dart
about in glittering clusters. The
lowest hut is embosomed in palm -fronds
and the bright crimson blossoms of the
hibiscus ; while wherever intelligent
cultivation aids the prolific force of
nature, there is enough in the pro-
fusion of nutmegs and allspice, of the
india-rubbers ana cinchonas, of cannas,
dracsenas, crotons, and other wonders
of the Cingalese flora, to give an endless
and delighted study to the lover of
nature " (Sir Edwin Arnold).
Travellers generally enter Ceylon by
the PORT OF COLOBIBO. a^ The flash-
ing light is visible 18 m. at sea. It is
situated at the S. end of the harbour,
and is placed on the top of the Clock
Totoer, where Chatham Street and
Queen Street join.
The Landiiig- places and Custom
House lie at the S. end of the harbour,
which receives the fuU protection of a
magnificent breakwater. This structure,
the first stone of which was laid by
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales in 1876,
was completed in 1884 : it is about a
mile and a half long, and is formed of
concrete blocks of from 16 to 32 tons
each, capped by a solid concrete mass
which rises to a height of 12 ft. above
low -water level. It terminates in a
circular space 62 ft. in diameter, with
a second and smaller lighthouse in the
centre, showing a red light, visible
about half the distance that the flash-
ing light can be seen. The area pro-
tected by the breakwater is 500 acres,
one half of which has water more than
25 ft. deep. The shallower portions
have been much improved by dredging.
The charge for landing and embark-
ing from or to any vessel in the
harbour is J r., or 25 cents, for each
person between 6 A.M. and 6 p.m. ;
earlier or later it is more.
Close to the Custom House are the
Grand Oriental Hotel, the Queen's
House, the Barracks, and the remains
of the Fort
The Grand Oriental Hotel is close to
the landing-jetty.
The traveller who intends to stop a
day or two may prefer to drive on, a
little more than a mile, to the Galle
Face Hotel. He will pass by the
Government Offices, looking out on the
public gardens presented to the City by
a late Governor (Lord Stanmore), and
proceeding between Queen's House on
his right (the Governor's residence, a
large but ugly mass of buildings), and
the new General Post Office on the left,
he will after passing the clock tower
and the Barracks^ consisting of several
blocks, built en ichelonf at a great cost
to the Colony, find himself on the fine
open space called the Galle Face, inter-
sected by the direct road to Galle.
Nearly in the centre of the Galle Face
Esplanade is a small fort recently
erected, and a little further to the S.
is the Glvib House, a fine oval building
looking on the sea. About the middle
of the Promenade, near the sea, is a stone
like a milestone, with an inscription
in which Sir Henry Ward, who made
it, recommends the walk to the care
of his successors for the use of ladies
and children.
The city of Colombo extends to the
4th m. on the Galle road, and has a
breadth of 3^ m. from the sea to the
E. outskirts. There are over 128,000
inhabitants.
Drives. — Colombo and its neighbour-
hood aflbrd scope for a multitude of
charming and picturesque drives. Two
especially may be mentioned, one of
which might be taken in the morning
and the other in the evening of the
same day. The first is recommended
to those who have not yet seen any-
thing of the East, and to whom the
native town of Colombo will afford a
pleasing introduction to the distin-
guishing characteristics of Oriental life
and scenery ; but, excepting the latter
part of it, which is pretty, there is
little in this drive to interest one
already familiar with India.
(1) Commence at the Galle Face
Hotel, and take the road along the sea
past the Barracks, until the statue of
Sir E. Barnes is reached. He was Gover-
nor from 1820-22, and from 1824-81.
Then turn to the right past the
Racquet-court and an old Dutch belfry,
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dSTtOtt
just beyond which are the Toum Hall
and Public Market *plac€. Here two
streets diverge — the one to the left,
Sea Street, miere dwell the dealers in
rioe and cotton, and where are two
Hindu temples, quaint and picturesque,
but of no great size or importance ; the
other, WoTfendahl Street, to the right,
conducts to Wolfendahl Church, a
massive cruciform building on high
ground, built by the Dutdi in 1749,
on the site of an old Portuguese church
called Apia de Lupo, and commanding
a fine view of the city and harbour.
Here are monuments and hatchments
recording the decease of Dutch officials.
Thence the drive may be continued in
aN.K direction to the RC. OcUhedralof
St, LudOf acyoining which is a college
for Roman Catholic boys, and a convent
with school and orphanage attached.
Then N. and a little W. the Anglican
Cathedral and College ofSL Thomas are
reached. They stand in a park, given
by Dr. Chapman, the firat Bishop.
About 1 m. to the N. is St. James's
Uoman CaXholic Church ; and in driving
there a fine house called Uplands is
seen to the right, where is a tortoise,
said to be more than 200 years old,
and very huge. The drive through
the suburb of Hutwal is extrem^y
picturesque. It is chiefly inhabited
by fishers, who are mostly Roman
Catholics, as the numerous large and
imposing R.C. churches testify. On
reaching the river at the end of the
long street of Mutwal, turn to the right,
and crossing a tongue of land till the
river is asam reached, follow its bank
to the bridge, by which the ^reat road
to Kandy crosses it, and which super-
sedes a most picturesque bridge of
boats which was long one of the most
attractive spots in Colombo to an artist.
This part of the drive shows to per-
fection the way in which the tiny
houses and small churches are so
nestled under the shelter of the trees
as to be altogether invisible from above.
Turning to the right at the bridtfe,
follow the dusty and ever-crowded *'St.
Joseph" or *' Grand Pass" Road till
Skinner's Road is reached. Turn left
along it under a fine avenue of Madras
thorn, till the railway station at Maran
dana is reached, and thence follow ths
side of the firesh-water lake, across whi<^
good views may be obtained, till GMle
Face is once more reached.
(2) The second drive commenoes by
crossing the bridge from Galle Face,
almost immediately behind the hotel,
to Slave Island, and then driving along
the edge of a beautiM freshwater lake
past the pretty residence of the General
commanoing the troops in Ceylon, to
the Vietoria Park. The traveller
should not omit to notice a picturesque
little Buddhist temple on the oth^
side of the lake nearly opposite the
General's house. The Park occupies
the site of the old Cinnamon OardoiB,
and is well laid out with ornamental
grounds, in the midst of wliioh a
Museum was built in 1877. It is
exclusively devoted to the exhibition
of Ceylon products, antiauities, and
natural history, and is on uiat account
all the more interesting to a visitor.
On the basement are some interesting
stone fragments, and particularly a
colossal lion, brought from PoUonama,
on which the King sat to administer
justice, one of the unique windows
from the ruins of Yapahoo, and tiie
cast of a portrait colossal statue of
King Prakrama Bahu, A. d. , 11 53. The
entrance-haU is handsome, and to the
right of it is a library, to whidi the
public have access from 6.30 to 10
A.M., and from 3 to 5 p.m. In frcmt
of the Museum is a statue of the Rt
Hon. Sir W. Gregory, Governor from
1871 to 1877.
Before leaving Colombo, a visit may
be paid to one of the Coffee Mills.
And, on account of the singularity of
the view thence obtained, no traveller
should omit to mount to the summit
of the Orectt Beserv&ir, from which
Colombo is supplied wiUi water. A
city of over 180,000 people lies at the
spectator's feet, but, except for a few
towers and domes, it is invisible, the
whole being conceisded by the mass of
vegetation which overshadows it.
Excursions. — One of the pleasantest
in the neighbourhood of Colombo
is that to a Buddhist temple at
the village of Kelaiii, 2 m. up the
river of the same name. Pass
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tlOUTE 1. dOLOllBO TO KANDt
443
tlirough the hot and dusty Pettah,
or native town, for about 4 m., as far
as the river, which is crossed by a
hideous iron bridge, superseding a
highly picturesque bridge of Boats, the
recent destruction of which must be a
matter of regret to all possessing artistic
tastes. After crossing the bridge the
road passes through cocoa-nut groves
and among the houses of the dense
population for another 2 m., when
the temple itself is reached. The
Mahatoanso refers to it as contemporary
with Buddha. The ori^al dagoba was
built at a very early period, but the one
that is now standing was constructed
between the years 1240-67 A.D., and
rebuilt about 1801 a.d. It stands on
the river -bank, and is handsomely,
though gaudily, decorated. According
to the Colombo Ouide^ it stands on the
site of a shrine erected by Prince
Yatalatissa, 806 B.C. A great festival
takes place here at the full moon of
May, and lasts four days.
None of the exclusiveness which dis-
tinguishes Hindu and Mohammedan
shnnes is to be found in the Buddhist
temples, to every part of which a
stranger is freely welcomed by the
yellow-robed monks. This however,
does not apply to the dewalas, which
are, strictly speaking, Hindu shrines
attached to Buddhist temples. Though
strangers are free to enter these, their
inner recesses stand closed.
A favourite excursion by train is to
Mount Lavinia, 7 m. from Colombo
(see p. 424).
Trips to Eaduwella (see p. 449) and
to Eotta, where there is a College of
the Church Missionary Society, prettily
situated, may also be taken.
ROUTE 1
Colombo to Kandy
(By rail 76 m.)
The line on leaving Colombo passes
first through portions of the Cinnamon
Gardens, and then crosses the river
Kelani by a very fine girder bridge.
To those who have never before visited
the tropics this journey will be full of
interest. They will see for the first
time vast stretches of paddy land of the
most vivid green, the unfamiliar but
soon recognised forms of the cashew,
the bread fruit, the jak, the fraugi-
pani, and the various forms of {lalm —
cocoa-nut, areoa, kitool, and above all
the talipot, a specimen of the eigantic
flower of which is generally visible at
some point on the journey.
At 9 m. nahara sta. is the quarry
junction. It was from hence that the
stone was brought for the construction
of the breakwater.
16 m. Henaratgoda sta. | m. from
this station are the Government Tropi-
cal Gardens, planted for experiments in
trees and plants which could not be
expected to thrive in the higher eleva-
tion of Kandy. Amongst the species
that may be studied in them are many
varieties of the tropical caoutchouc, or
rubber-giving trees, and plants from
West Africa, South America, and Pana-
ma, gutta-percha trees from the Malay
Peninsula, Trinidad cacao, and Liberian
coffee. From this place onward for
some 15 m. the country is covered with
cocoa-nut trees to an extent not to be
seen in many other localities.
34 m. AmbepuBsa sta., the line here
enters the lower hills, and is considered
to pass through some of the most un-
healthy country in the island. The
mortalitv was terrible when the original
cart-road was made from Colombo to
Kandy ; but in constructing the railway
this was to some degree avoided by tak-
ing the labourers back to Colombo
every night.
45 m. Polgahawela June, sta., 241 ft.
above sea-level.
[From hence a branch rail-road runs
N. 11 m. to Kiirunegala(R.H.), the chief
town of the North- Western Pix)vince.
Kurunegala is situated at the foot
of a remarkable rock which starts up
alone in the plain, — an enormous black
boulder, over 1000 feet in height.
Similar isolated rocks are not uncom-
mon in different parts of the Province.
From the top of the ** Rock of Kurune-
fda " a noble view is to be obtained,
t its foot is an artificial lake which is
used for irrigation purposes. From
Kurunegala there are good roads S.W.
to Negombo, and N. W. to Puttalam
Digitized by VjOOQIC
444
COTLON
(see Rto. 6). 13 m. from Eurunegala
on the latter road is Waxiyapola
(R.H.)f 10 m. N. of which, a few miles
off a cross-road to Anuradhapura, is Ya-
pahoo, one of the most picturesque and
curious of the remains of antiquity in
Ceylon. It was at one time the abode
of the sacred tooth, and the ruins of
the Malagawaj standing at the head of
a great flight of steps, are quite uniaue.
Its tracened windows, one of whicn is
in the Museum at Colombo, are espe
cially curious. A few miles N.E. of
Eurunegala is the Bidi (or silver)
Vihare, a very ancient Buddhist
monastei^, most picturesquely situated
at a considerable elevation.
The road from Eurunegala to Ne-
fombo, passing through Narammola,
>ambadeniya, Giriulla, and Welli-
hinda, is very pleasing from its varying
character and constant succession of
woodlands, paddy fields and cocoa-nut
groves. At Dambadeniya is a large
and f&mous temple, close to which is a
high and apparently inaccessible iso-
lated rock, on which, according to
tradition, prisoners were confined.
10 m. S. of Polgahawela is Eegalla
(R.H.), a small town in a most lovely
sftnation, and encompassed by the
most lelightful scenery. ]
, 52 m. Bambukkana sta. Here the
ghat ascent commences at an elevation
of 313 ft., and ascends 12 m. with a
gradient of 1 in 45 to an elevation of
1698 ft. The vegetation is here of great
richness and beauty.
65 m. Eadugannawa sta. is at the
top of the pass. On the way up three
telegraph stations are passed, and the
beautiral scenery and increasing cool-
ness of the air make the journey most
enjoyable. Near the top of the incline,
the road constructed by Sir Edward
Barnes is seen on the right, winding up
the hill. The two roads reach the
summit of the pass at the same spot,
and there a column has been erected to
the memory of Captain Dawson, the
engineer of the first road. Just over
the station is the Hill of Belungala (the
Watchers' Rock), 2643 ft. above sea-
level, from which, in the troubled days
of old, a watch was kept to report an
enemy advancing from the plains. I
71 m. Peradeniya junc sta. This
place is 136 ft. lower than the top of
the pass. The main line continues
S., whilst the branch line to Eandy
and Matale strikes N. At this place
a loop of l^e Mahawelli Oanga river
nearly surrounds the beautiful Boyal
Botanic Gardens; which are near the
railway station, and less than 4 m. from
Eandy by road, through a suburb in
which every house is surrounded by a
garden of cocoa-nut palms, bread-firoit
trees and coffee bushes, and bright
tropical shrubs. Near the entrance to
the Botanic Gardens is a noble avenue
of india-rubber treea(Ficusel<i8tioa)f and
on entering, a sroup of palms is seen
unsurpassed in beauty and grandeur.
Amongst the exotic species is the won-
derful Coco de mer of the Seychelles. In
size its fruit exceeds that of the ordinary
cocoa-nut many times, with the peculi-
arity of a double and sometimes triple
formation. Formerly, medicinal virtues
were ascribed to it, and the Emperor
Rodolph II. offered 4000 florins for a
single specimen. The Gardens cover
nearly 150 acres, and overlook the
noble river that encircles them on three
sides. In them are orchids and flower-
ingcreepers, ipomoeas and bignonias, the
BavMnia scandens and ra/xnwaa^ which
resembles the chain cable of a man-of-
war. There is a monument in the
grounds to Dr. Gardiner, and another
to Dr. Thwaites, both able Directors
of the institution. No attempt is
here made to describe these beautiful
Gardens, as an admirable hand-guide
can be bought at the gates for 25 cents ;
they are one of the most enjoyable spots
in the East. The fruit of the durian
and the mangosteen are to be found in
perfection in these gardens. A tea-
garden and factory may be visited
opposite the railway station.
75 m. KAMBT sta.a^ The capital
of the former kingdom of Eandy, 1680
ft. above sea -level, pop. 22,000.
History. — ^The first mention of Eandy
as a oily is at the beginning of the 14th
century, when a temple was built there
to contain Buddha's tooth and othtf
relics. From possessing these, it be-
came an important seat of the Buddhist
hierarchy, and eventually the residence
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BOUTS 2. OOIOHBO TO BATTICALOA
445
of branches of the royal family ; but
it was not till the dose of the 16th
century that it was adopted as the
capital of the island, after the destruc-
tion of Kotta, and the defeat of Raja
Sin^ha II. by Wimala Dharma in 1592.
Dunng the wars between the Portu-
fuese and Dutch, Eandy was so often
umed that scarcely any of the ancient
buildings except the temples and the
royal residence were remaining when
the English took it in 1815. The
FcUace, a win^ of which is stiU occupied
by the chief civil officer of the Province,
was built by Wimala Dharma about
1600 A.D., and the Portuguese prisoners
were employed in erecting it. This gave
a European character to the architecture
of some portions, such as the octagon
tower adjoining the Malagawa Temple.
That temple, in which the sacred
tooth is deposited, well deserves a visit.
There are many jewels and ornaments
of interest in the shrine, the brazen
doors of which merit observation. The
octagon contains a fine oriental Ubrarv.
DeBoription. — Kandy is picturesquely
situated on the banks of a miniature
lake, overhung on all sides by hiUs.
A road called Lady Horton's Walk
winds round one of those hills, and on
the E. side, which is almost precipitous,
looks down on the valley of Dumbera,
through which the Mahawelli Ganga
rolls over a channel of rocks, " present-
ing a scene that in majestic beauty can
scarcely be surpassed. In a park at the
foot of this acclivity is the pavilion of
the Governor, one of the most agreeable
edifices in India, not less from the
beauty of the architecture than firom its
judicious adaptation to the climate"
(Tennent, vol. ii. p. 203). Serpents are
numerous here, especiallv the cobra and
carawilla. Tlie lar^ black scorpion,
as big as a crayfish, is also found here.
The "sacred tooth," was brourfit to
Ceylon a short time before Fa Hian's
arrival in 311 a.d., in charge of a
princess of Kalinga, who concealed it
in the folds of her hair. It was taken
by the Malabars about 1315 A.D., and
again carried to India, but was re-
covered by Prakrama Bahu III. It
was then hidden, but in 1660 was
discovered by the Portuguese, taken to
Goa by Don Constantine de Braganza,
and burned by the archbishop in the
presence of the Viceroy and his court.
Wikrama Bahu manufactured another
tooth, which is a piece of discoloured
ivory 2 in. long ana less than 1 in. in
diameter, resembling the tooth of a
crocodile rather than that of a man.
It now reposes on a lotus flower of pure
fold, hidden under seven concentric
ell-shaped metal shrines increasing in
richness as they diminish in size, and
containing jewels of much beauty."
An interesting excursion may be
made to three Buddhist temples situ-
ated near each other at a little distance
from Eandy — Gadaladenya, Oalan-
goUa, and Lanka Telika. Each is curi-
ous in a different way. One is a modem
temple, very well kept up, and situ-
ated most romantically among huge
boulders of rock ; the second is very
ancient, but in the last stage of neglect,
decay, and dilapidation; the third,
Lanka Telika, is remarkable alike for its
situation on the top of a rock and for the
character of its architecture, which is
very unlike that of any other temple in
Ceylon. The best mode of performing
this expedition is to drive 5 m. out on
the road to Eadugannawa, and thence
send the carriage back to a point 9 m.
on the road to Gampola, riaing across
from one of these points to the other
by the bridle-path on which the temples
are situated.
There are many other pleasant drives
and rides to be taken in the neighbour-
hood of Kandy. The extensive planta-
tions of cacao on the banks of the
Mahawelli Ganga, a few miles below
Kandy, deserve a visit.
A local guide to Kandy by Mr. S.
M. Burrows of the Civil Service may
be consulted with advantage.
ROUTE 2
Colombo to Nuwara Eliya,
Badulla, and Battioaloa
(Rail to Nuwara Eliya, or Haputale ; coiich
to Badulla ; special carriage to Batticaloa
—total distance 274 m.)
This route so fEur as Peradomya junc-
tion is the same as Rte. 1. ^om that
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446
CSTlON
pMoint the stations are on a constantly
risinff leyel to
108 m. Hatton sta., 4141 ft. above
the sea.
[From Hatton the ascent of Adam's
Peak, the most celebrated though not
the highest mountain in Ceylon, is
most easily made. The traveller can
drive as far as Lascapana (R.H.)
where there is a riding road for 8 J m.,
but no ponies for hu*e. Chairs can be
arranged for. The ascent is steep,
and to those easily made giddy not
altogether safe, but £!nglish ladies have
been to the summit, and it is annually
ascended by thousands of pilgrims of
both sexes and all ages. It is usual to
sleep in a hut on the summit (7420 ft. ),
in order to see the sunrise, and the
wonderful shadow cast by the peak,
which often produces a singular optical
illusion.]
Hatton is also the point from which
the great tea districts of Diokoya and
Dimbnla may be most conveniently
visited. These valleys, formerly cele-
brated for their proauction of coffee,
are now entirely aevoted to tea culti-
vation. About the year 1870 the
coffee plantations were attacked by a
new fungus, Hoemilia vastatrix, which
choked the breathing pores of the
leaves and gradually exhausted the
energies of the plant. It was at first
little regarded, but in ten years' time
it had well-nigh destroyed the produc-
tion of coffee, and reduced the planting
community to a state of ruin. The
revenue of the island fell from over
17,000,000 rs. in 1877 to 12,161,570
in 1882, and large numbers of the
wealthiest proprietors lost their estates,
or remained on them merely as man-
agers for their creditors. With in-
domitable energy the planting com-
munity set itself to work to remedy
the disaster, and by the substitution
of tea for coffee, they may be said to
have thoroughly succeeded in doing so,
though of course not without great
individual loss and suffering. In 1875
but 282 lbs. of tea were exported from
Ceylon. The export of 1893 amounted
to 84,387,656 lbs., while the revenue
of the colony now exceeds the amount
^received in 1877.
The valley of MatkeUya, a more
newly-planted district, is separated by
a ridge fh»m that of Dickoya, to whidb
it is paralleL The Dimbuia valley is
traversed by a road from Nawalapitiya
to Nuwara Eliya, into which a bnu^
road from Hatton leads.
Beyond Hatton, the line faUs again
slightly to
116 m. Talawakele sta., whence it
again rises steadily to
128 m. Nanuoyasta.,^ 5291 ft. eleva-
tion, until lately the terminus of the
line. It is now, however, open to
Haputale, in the IJva Province, 26 m.,
and has still more recently been opened
to Baadarawella, 13 m. further (see
p. 422). On this prolongation is the
summit-level 6219 It. above the sea.
From Nanuoya to Nnwara Eliya is 4^
m. by a good road with an ascent of 1000
ft. All sorts of conveyances can be had.
The village of Nuwara Eliya :^ is
6210 ft. above the sea -level. The
summer residence of the Governor, the
Club, and Hotels are to the N. W. of the
lake. In the beautiful climate of this
station expeditions of all sorts may be
enjoyed. Some ordinary drives are here
mentioned : —
Round the Moon Plains, 8 m. To
the top of Rcmboda Pass and back, 6
m. Round the Lake 6 m. Pidaru
TalagcUay the highest mountain in
Ceylon (8280 ft.), may be easily as-
cended from Nuwara Eliya. There is
a bridle-path to the top, whence the
view is extensive, but not specially
striking. »
A longer excursion is that to the
Horton Plains, 28 m. from Kuwara
Eliya.
This excursion will take at least two
days, one to go and one to return, and
must be made on horseback. A bridle-
path through wild and beautiful scen-
ery terminates at a large R.H., in tiie
neighbourhood of which are tI^emend-
ous precipices, which descend to the
great plain of the Kalu Ganga.
Burrows*s Visitors' Guide to Kandy
and NvAJoara Eliya is a useful hud-
1 Travellers are reoommended to have
warm wraps with them, as the tempeimtnre
here is very much lower than that of the
plains, or even of Kandy.
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ROUTE 2. COLOMBO TO BATTICALOA
447
book. Much of the ground about
Nuwara Eliya is open and moorlike,
and is thickly dotted with bushes of
orimson rhododendron. The eucalyptus
and the Australian wattle have been
largely planted about Nuwara Eliya,
and give the landscape a peculiar
character, which has also a somewhat
Italian air imparted to it by the
numerous kuna trees (CcUophyllum
tamentosum) which, though not a
conifer, has a sreat general resemblance
in its habit of growth to a stone jone.
On leaving Nuwara Eliya, the road
rises slightly' after quitting the lake,
and then commences a continuous and
for the most part very steep descent of
several thousand feet At 6 m. from
Kuwara Eliya we reach the Botanic
Cfardem at Hakgalla, a visit to which
ought on no account to be omitted by
any one making a stay, however short,
at Nuwara Eliya. The visitor is
equally repaid by the beauty of the
views from the Gardens, and by the
beauty of the Qardens themselves, in
which all the flowers and plants of
temperate climates flourish freely, com-
bined with much beautiful natural
▼egetation. Behind the Gardens rises
the precipitous wall of bare rock which
forms the face of the Hakgalla moun-
tain, whilst in front the ground sinks
abruptly to valleys and low hills far
below, and backed in the distance by
the mountains of Uva. The road con-
tinues to descend very rapidly to
13 m. Wilson's Bungalow, a
B«H^ at which through travellers
to Badulla and Colombo, who do not
stop at Nuwara Eliya, usually sleep.
Another sharp descent brings us to
"Welimadu, a small but picturesque
village, from which point the road
begins again to ascend till at
26 m. Etampitiya, where there is a
comfortable R.H., we are again on
the same level as Wilson's Bungalow.
The traveller cannot fail to be struck
by the extent of terrace-cultivation in
the valleys traversed, the steepest hill-
sides being fashioned into an endless
series of narrow terraces, carefully irri-
^ted, on which abundant cro];» of
paddy are grown. From Etampitiya
the road again falls continuously, until.
after passing DikwtUa, where it is
joined D^ the road from Eatnapura (see
Rte. 3), it reaches
37 m. Badulla (R.H.), the capital of
the Province of Uva, one of the oldest,
mostcheerful, and most attractive towns
in Ceylon. It is situated on a slight
eminence, entirely surrounded by green
paddy-flelds, and in the immolate
vicimty of a fine river, while on all
sides the background is formed by
mountains of very beautifrd outline.
Beautiful avenues of Iryga samutm,
and other trees adorn the town, which,
besides the usual Government build-
ings— Cutcherry, Government Agent's
residence, etc. contains a handsome
Market and a fine Hospital. There is
also an exceedingly pretty race-course,
surrounding a small lake. Of the
ancient city few traces remain. Not a
vestige is to be seen of the palace of
the Mnes, and scarcely any indication
of any buildings of considerable anti-
quity. There are, however, two lar^e
and wealthy Buddhist temples, the
Maha Viha/ra and the Mdka Dewale,
which, though the present edifices are
of no very great age, are picturesque
and worth a visit. They occupy ancient
sites, and the dagoba at the Maha
Vihara is undoubtedly of very early
origin. Badulla is in the centre of a
veiT flourishing group of tea-estates.
Badulla may now also be reached from
Bandarawelia by travellers who do not
care to leave the train at Nanuoya,
and this route will no doubt be taken
by those who do not wish to visit
Nuwera Eliya, and desire to reach
Badulla in one day from Colombo or
Kandy.
[A very interesting excursion may be
made hence to Alutnuwera, 25 m. N.,
on the Mahawelli Ganga, where there
is an ancient dagoba in the midst of
fine scenery. JUutnuwera may also
be reached from Kandy, and one of
the views on that route at the head of
the sudden descent to the great
eastern plain is among the finest in
Ceylon.]
Leaving Badulla, the road, which
passes chiefly through fine tea-estates,
rises rapidly to
Digitized by VjOOQIC
448
CEYLON
50 m. Passara (R.H.)) and still con-
tinuing to ascend, reaches at
65 m. Limiigala (R.H.), beautifully
situated. Here the rcNul descends
again. Nothing can exceed the beauty
of the drive between this place and
78 m. Bibile (B.H.), a good starting-
point for excursions into the wild and
beautiful country to the E. and S.
We are now in the Veddah country,
and either here or at the next following
Rest-Houses,
88 m. Ekiriyankambara, or
100 m. Pallegama, the traveller
Is likely to meet with some of these
singular specimens of humanity. They
are a remnant of the Yakkos, the abor-
iginal inhabitants of Ceylon, and are
divided into two classes, the Book and
the Village Yeddahs. The Rock
Veddahs are absolute savages, who
remain concealed in the forests, and
are rarely seen by a European eve —
indeed few now exist. Tne Village
Veddahs, though often indulging their
migratory instincts, live in collections
of mud and bark huts, in the vicinity
of which they cany on some rude cul-
tivation. Tneir skill in handling the
bow and arrow, of which they still
habitually make use, is remarkable.
114 m. Ma]iaOya(R.H.)
120 m. Eiiinbiiruwella(R.H.) About
6 miles beyond Kumburuwella is the
great tank of Rugam, restored by Sir H.
Ward, and now irrigating a large tract
ofeountry.
130 m. EanitiTa (R.H.)
136 m. Chenkaledi or Eraoor (R.H. )
We have now entered a country almost
wholly inhabited by Tamils and
'* Moors,'* as the Cingalese Moham-
medans are called. The familiar
dagoba is no longer seen in the
viUages, and its phuie is taken by the
Hindu pagoda or the mosque. From
Rugam onwards the country is highly
cultivated and populous. After cross-
ing the brid^ at Eraoor, the road turns
sharply at right angles S.E. to
146 m. Batticaloa (R.H. ), the capital
of the Eastern Province. Batticaloa is
situated on an island in a remarkable
salt-water lake, which communicates
with the sea nlybyone long and narrow
channel, but which extends for over
30 m. in length by from 5 to 2 m. in
breadth, and is sepai-ated from the sea
by a broad sandy belt now rich with
cocoa-nut groves, and swarming with
Tamil and Moorish villages from one
end to the other. The approach to
the town by a causeway across the
lake is picturesque. The walls of tbe
small old Dutch fort, now converted
into a prison, are well preserved
Batticaloa is famous as the abode d
that singular natural curiosity th<
* * singing fish . " On calm nights, especi
ally about the time of the full moon
musical sounds are to be heard proceed-
ing from the bottom of the lagoon.
They resemble those which are nro-
duced by rubbing the rim of a glass
vessel with a wet finger. The writer
has never heard more than two distinct
musical notes, one much higher than
the other, but credible witnesses, soch
as Sir £. Tennent, assert that they
have heuxl a multitude of sounds,
''each clear and distinct in itself the
sweetest treble mingling with the low-
est bass." The natives attribute the
production of the sounds to the sheU-
fish, Cerithitim pcUustre. This may be
doubtful, but it is unquestionable that
they come from the bottom of the
lagoon, and may be distinctly heard
rising to the surface on all sides of a
boat floating on the lake. If a pole
be inserted in the water, and its upper
end applied to the ear, much lomst
and stronger sounds are heard than
without such aid.
ROUTE 3
Colombo to Ratkapura and
Badijlla
(Coach daily to Ratnapura ; thence special
conveyance.)
No excursion could show more of
the characteristic features of Cingalese
scenery and Cingalese life than this.
It is one strongly recommended to
those having time to perform it. The
return journey from Badulla should be
taken by the line described in Rte. 2,
and can be performed in a day and a
half. The journey to badulla would
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KOUTB 3. COLOMBO TO RATNAPURA AND BADULLA
449
occupy three days. Those who have less
time to spare are strongly reoommended
to go as far as Ratnapura, returning to
Colombo by the alternative route men-
tioned below.
Leayinff Colombo through the narrow
and crowded streete of the **Pettah,"
we follow either a very pretty road
along the S. bank of the Kelani river,
or a more direct but less picturesque
road across the plain, to
10 m. Eaduwella, a R.H. charm-
ingly situated on a bluff of red rooks
above the river at a point where it
makes a sharp turn. The R.H. ver-
andah all but overhangs the river, and
commands a delightful view, enlivened
by the constant passage of leaf-thatehed
barges and sailmg TOate, and by the
picturesque groups all day crossing the
river at the ferry close by. A short
distance ofif is an ancient Buddhist
temple of some size. The road con-
tinues near the river, through a rapid
succession of villages and groves, to
21 m. Hanwella, a large village with
a good R.H., commanding a beautiful
view up and down the river. A few
m. S. of Hanwella is the tank of
Labugama, which supplies Colombo
with water. It is picturesquely situ-
ated among wooded hills, and well
repays a visit. The road now leaves
the river and passes over country in
which tea-cultivation is making much
progress to
80 m. AviBawella, another large
village with an excellent R.H., which
is virtually an hotel. Avisawella is
surrounded by country of verv great
natural beauty. Its loveliness is, now-
ever, rapidly disappearing before the
constent extension of t^- estates, of
which Avisawella is now one of the
centres. [A road leading N. from
Avisawella crosses the Sitiwaka and
Kelani rivers by fine iron bridges, both
commanding lovely views ; and passes,
by Ruanwella (R.H.) through a lovely
wooded and undulating country to
Kegalla (see Rte. 1 ). ] After Avisawella,
the scenery assumes a bolder character.
After passing
44 m. Pussella (R.H.), we cross the
Kuriweti river near the village of
Ekneligoda, in which is situated the
[Jwdia]
walawa of Ekneligoda
•issawe, a great Cingalese chief and
landholder, and we reach
56 m. Batnapura (R.H.), a consider-
able town, the capitel of the Province of
Sabaragamuwa. Eatnapura is situated
in the midst of the most exquisite
scenery, and the views from the summit
of the Fort, the Suspension Bridge, and
the Circular Road are especially recom-
mended. A ride of a few miles up the
bridle-path leading from the Suspen-
sion Bridge to Gilimale will amply
repay the trouble, revealing as it does
the magnificent mountain-wall which
rises all but perpendicularly to the N.
to the height of many thousand feet.
It is from Ratnapura that the finest
views of Adam's Peak are to be ob-
teined. There is a specially good
one within a few minutes' walk of the
R.H. Ratnapura is the headquarters
of the gemming industry, and the
whole country is dotted with pite from
which gems have been removed. Sap-
phires, topazes, and cat's eyes are
those most commonly found. The
modus operaiidi is simple. A pit is
dug, and when the iltariy a peculiar
clay in which the gems are usually
found, is reached, all that is dug up is
carefully washed and sifted, and the
good stones set aside. Genuine stones
are certein to be found in large quan-
tities, but stones of any marketable
value are more rare, the greater part
having only a faint shade of colour
and being cusfigured by flaws.
A mile or two W. from Ratnapura is
the Maha Soman Dewale^ one of the
richest Buddhist temples in Ceylon,
and possessed of considerable estates.
Some interesting relics are preserved
there, but the building itself, though
picturesque, has no architectural in-
terest. In the outer court, built into
the wall, stends one of the very few
monuments of the Portuguese domina-
tion remaining in Ceylon, — a slab repre-
senting the rail -length fiffure of a
Portuguese knight in armour Killingand
trampling upon a prostrate Cingalese.
[Ascent of Adam's Peak (28 m.), see
also Rte. 2.
5 m. from Ratnapura is Halwala on
the river Kalu Oanga»
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450
CEYLON
2 m. farther up the riyer is Qilimale,
# a large village (horses as a rule can-
not proceed farther).
6 m. Palabaddala, # halting-station
of pilgrims to the Peak. Here the path
becomes very steep and rufi^od.
8 m. Heramitipaiia, ^ nalting-sta-
tion at the base of the Peak.
8 m. farther is the summit of the
mountain (7420 ft.), where is a small
permanent room built for the accommo-
dation of the officiating priest]
Leaving Ratnapuraby the Suspension
Bridge, and not forgetting to notice
the dutiful views obtainable from it,
we pass through paddj-fields fertilised
by the Batu^edara irrigation works,
and after a drive of 18 m. reach
69 m. Felmadolla (R.H.), whence a
road to the 8. leads to Eackwane, the
chief village of a rising tea-district
The views on this road are some of the
most beautiful in Ceylon.
[From Rackwane an interesting trip
may be made southwards to Hamban-
totta in the southern province. It is
a riding road only, thoi jh practicable
for bullock-carts in most places. As
far as Maduanwela the scenery is very
pretty. At Maduanwela is a very
interesting specimen, the only one witn
which the writer is acauainted, of the
ancient vxilawes of the Kandyan chiefs.
It consists of several small courts built
on a soi-t of Pompeiian plan, the small
rooms looking into the court which, as
at Pompeii, is in every case furnished
with an impluvium. There is a small
private chapel (Buddhist), and the
massive outer door made of one huge
piece of wood, is marked by bullets
and other traces of resistance to assail-
ants in olden times. Within is dis-
played the silver staff shaped like a
crosier, the badge of office of one of
the ancestors of the family, who was
chief Adigar or Prime Minister of the
King of Kandy. Afterwards the track
leads chiefly through thick forest and
jungle, attractive to the sportsman as
being a great resort for elephants and
deer. After passing the irrigation
works on the WcUawe River, the main
road between Galle and Hambantotta
is joined at Ambalantotta (see p. 453)].
The woods about Pelmadulla, at the
proper season, are bright with liie
splendid blooms of the Dendrcbium
Maccarihii,
85 m. Balangoda (R.H.) Nothing
can exceed the beauty and yarietj of
the scenery along the whole road mm
Ratnapura to this place. It is entirely
free from that monotony which some-
times renders the most luxuriant tropi-
cal scenery oppressive and wearisome.
97 m. Belihuloya. There is a good
R.H. here, romantically situated
on the edge of a rushing mountain
stream. From this spot an ascent can
be made to the Horton Plains (see Rte.
2). We now get into cotfee and tea-
estates, whence the whole of the wood
has been cleared, and the bare hillsides
now lack any trace of their original
beauty. But the crops are fine, and
cotfee has not in this part of Ceylon
been so wholly exterminated as else-
where by leaf disease. Ever since leav-
ing Pelmadulla the road, though varied
by occasional descents, has been rising,
and by the time we have reached
105 m. Haldamulla (R.H. ), we are at
a very considerable elevation, from which
a truly magnificent view is obtained over
all that part of the island lying between
Haldamulla and the sea to the S. With
few exceptions, the eye seems to range
OVOT an unbroken extent of forest ; the
rivers, villages, and tracts of cultivation
being for the most part concealed bj
the &ees surrounding them.
[From Haldamulla the very fine
waterfall, over 400 feet in height, near
Lemastotta, may be visited.]
A very steep ascent of about 8 m.
brings us to the top of the pass at
Haputale (R.H.), at an elevation of
between 4000 and 6000 ft The view
hence is even grander than that from
Haldamulla, but from partaking of a
greater extent of the nature of a bird's-
eye view it is less picturesque. The
road leading northwards now begins
again to descend, and soon reaches the
small village of
120 m. Bandarawella (R.H.), which
is said to enjo}r the best and most
equable climate in Ceylon. It is cer-
tainly a very delicious one, and no
doubt one day, now that the railway is
extended to this point, it will become
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ROUTE 4. COLOMBO TO RATNAPURA. ROUTE 6. TO TI88AMAHARAMA 461
the site of numerous villas and summer
residences. A good hotel has been
lately opened here. The road con-
tinues to descend for 14 miles to
134 m. Dikwella, from which point
the road to Badulla is the same as in
Rte. 2.
ROUTE 4
Colombo to Ratnapura, via Pana-
DURA AND NaMBAPANE
(Rail and road.)
This is an alternative route to Ratna-
pura, which, though somewhat longer,
is performed in the same number of
hours as the previous route, owing to a
part of it being by railway. It passes
through very pretty country, and those
who go no farther than Ratnapura are
strongly recommended to go by one
and return by the other of these routes.
The traveller proceeds as far as Fana-
dura by the Southern Railway from
Colombo (see Rte. 6), and thence pro-
ceeds by coach or private conveyance.
A few miles after quitting Panadura
he crosses the Bolgoda Lake by a bridge,
and at
10 m. reaches Horana. The R.H.
here is built among the remains of an
ancient Buddhist monastery, ai i on
the opposite side of the road is the large
and nandsome Buddhist temple. It
contains a bronze candlestick worthy
of notice. It is about 8 ft. high and
of remarkably fine workmanship.
28 m. Nambapane (RH.) prettily
situated. The road here approaches
the Kalu Ganga river, along the bank
of which it passes as far as
32 m. Eiri Ela, where the Kuru-
witti river is crossed. The road now
keeps at a ^eater distance from the
river, though it follows its general course
till it reaches
42 m. Ratnapura (see p. 449). Shortly
before arriving at Ratnapura the Maha
Saman Dewale is passed (see p. 449).
The whole road is extremely bieautiful
and cannot fail, if the day be fine, to give
pleasure to those passing along it. Fine
views of Adam's Peak and the other
principal points of the Central Moun-
tains are to be obtained on this route.
ROUTE 5
Colombo to Galle, Matara, Ham-
bantoita, and tissamahakama
(Rail to Ifatara ; tlience special con-
veyance. Beyond Kirinde ride.)
The journey is worth making, at all
events so far as Galle or Matara, for the
sake of the coast scenery. As far as
Matara it can be performed by rail, but
it is unnecessary to say that much is
lost by adopting this mode of travel-
ling. The first six stations — namely,
the Pettah, the Fort, Slave Island (the
drive from Galle Face Hotel to this
station is about J m.), Kollapitiya,
Bambalapitya, and Wellawatta, are all
in the suDurbs of Colombo.
At 7 m. Mount Lavinia sta. is the
Grand Hotel, which was built by Sir
E. Barnes, when Governor, as his
Marine Villa. It stands on a rocky
eminence close to the station. It is a
very favourite place to stay at, and has
first-rate accommodation.
17^ m. Moratuwa sta. is a very
flourishing place. There is a good
Anglican church here, built by the late
M. C. de Soysa.
21 m. Panadura (R.H.) good, a
flourishing village prettily situated on a
narrow inlet of tne sea. There is a
handsome church in a style of pointed
architecture well suited to the climate
(see Rte. 4).
26 m. Ealutara (R.H.) excellent, is
approached by a fine iron bridge over the
Kalu Ganga. It is over 1200 ft. long,
being composed of twelve spans of 100
ft. each. Kalutara is a large place,
with a great air of cheerfulness and
comfort. The R.H. is an excellent one
and a good starting-point for the excur-
sions which may be made over excellent
roads into the very pretty country to
the east of the town. There is an in-
teresting Buddhist temple on the north
side of the river.
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452
CSYLON
41 m. BentoUasta. (R.H.) very good,
was till lately the railway terminus, and
from thence the journey to Galle had to
be made hy road. The driye is charming,
always near and generally within si^ht
of the sea, and passing under an unin-
terrupted grove of oocoa-nut and other
treses. The district is eictremeljr popu-
lous, and the traveller is rarely, if^ever,
out of sight of a house or two, while
villages of greater or less size are of
constant occurrence.
54 m. Ambalangoda sta. is a large
and rapidly increasinff village. The
R.H. here is close to the sea, and has a
good bathing-place among the rocks
below it.
61m.Hikkaduwa8ta.(R.H.) There
is a fine Buddhist temple here in a
somewhat unusual position, approached
by a lon^, narrow, and steep flight of
stone stairs.
74 m. GALLB sta. # was the principal
port of call for vessels between Aden and
the fair East, before the completion of the
breakwater at Colombo. The harbour
at Galle is very small, and not very safe
in rough weatner. The entrance is so
narrow as to be hardly visible until
very near. The lighthouse is about
60 ft. high. To the £. there is a hill
2170 fL high called the Haycock, and
in the distance to the E.N.E. Adam's
Peak, 7000 ft high, is often seen. The
landine-place at Galle is on the N. side
of the harbour. The deep water comes
close into the shore. All Saints'
Church is about } m. from the landing-
place. It is a handsome stone building
of pointed architecture, and can seat
500 persons. The ramparts of the old
tort form a charmingpromenade towards
the sea. The population of the town
according to the last census is 38,500.
The place is hardly mentioned in the
native chronicles before 1267. Ibn
Batuta, in the middle of the 14th cen-
tury, calls it a small town. It was not
till the Portuguese occupation that it
rose to importance. When the Dutch
succeeded the Portuguese, they greatly
strengthened the fortifications, which
had been vigorously defended against
their admiral, Kosten. In the marriage
treaty of the Infanta of Portugal with
Charles II. of England, it waa agreed
that if the Portuguese recovered Ceylcai
they were to hand over Galle to the
English, but they never did recover it
llie name of Galle is from the Cingal-
ese, gcUla, a rock ; but the Porta-
guese and Dutch settlers derived it
from the Latin, gaUuSy a cock, and
carved an image of a cock on the front
of the old Government House, which
dated from 1687. The environs of
Galle are charming, and a nnmber of
pleasant and interesting excursions
may be made among them. The
scenery is always delightful, and there
are many old and curious Buddhist
monasteries to be explored. Buddhism
is here seen in its best aspect. The
monks are far more austere and more
intelligent than in the Eandyian
provinces, and the religion seems to
exercise a greater influence over the
lives of the people.
91 m. Wellgama sta. (R.H.), a popu-
lous and thriving village, beautifoUy
situated on the lovely little bay of the
same name. Half a mile before enter-
ing the village on the rt. -hand side of
the high road from Galle is a remuk-
able rock-cut colossal statue of a Cingal-
ese king in perfect preservation. The
statue is popularly styled that of the
" Leper King," but the legends attached
to it are objure and contradictory.
The road continues along the sea-
shore, through an almost uninterrupted
jffove of cocoa-nut trees which 07e^
shadow a constant succession of pictur-
esque fishing- villages. The whole dis-
trict is densely populated, and the diire
one of the most cnarming character.
101 m. Hatara, sta. ^ the birthplace
of Sir Henry Lawrence, 1806, a large and
flourishing town of about 9000 in-
habitants. The Nilawa Gangs is here
crossed by a fine bridge. Matara itself
is a particularly pretty and pleasing
town, and is the residence of many of
the oldest and richest Cingalese lowland
families. In the fort there is a B.H.
and a handsome clock tower.
Matara is the railway terminus. The
traveller proceeds by carriage to
104 m. Dondra, a fishing • village
situated on the southernmost point of
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ROUTE 6. OOLOMBO TO TRINCOICALBB
453
Ceylon. There was here a stately
temple, destroyed by the Portuguese,
of which few fra^ents now remain.
There is, however, m the modem vihara
a fine gateway elaborately sculptured,
and about half a mile to the north is a
stone cell in perfect preservation. On
the head itself, about a mile to the
south of the road, is a magnificent
lighthouse, erected at great cost in 1889.
The villages, though still frequent,
now become fewer in number.
114 m. DikweUa (R.H. ) good
125 m. Tangalla, a pretty little
village with a remarkably good R.H.
close to the sea.
North of Tangalla are the extensive
irrigation works of the Eirima valley,
and the large tank of Udukiriwella ; a
few miles to the south of which is situ-
ated one of the oldest and most re-
markable Buddhist monasteries in Cey-
lon— Mukirigala, an isolated rock rising
abruptly from the plain, and honey-
combed with caves and temples.
1 30 m. Banne (R. H. ) poor. About a
mile before reaching it we see on the
south a picturesque Buddhist temnle
on the summit of a high wooded rock.
The country now becomes bleaker and
barer and the population far more sparse.
140 m. Ambalantotta (R.H.) fair,
a small village on the banks of the
Walawe river, a noble stream here
shrouded in dense forest, and crossed by
a long and picturesque wooden bridge.
Ten miles north of Ambalantotta are
the head works of the Walawe irrigation
scheme. A massive stone dam, recently
constructed by the Ceylon Government,
diverts part of the stream into a system
of canals and channels which convey
water for agricultural purposes for many
miles on tne west bank of the river.
The road now passes through a desolate
country to
149 m. Hambantotta (R.H.), the chief
place of an Assistant Agency, a large
town on a small bad harbour. Here are
the headquarters of the district, a large
gaol, the Assistant Agent's and District
Judge's residences, the Cutcherry,
Court-house, etc. Here too is one of the
two chief salt manufactories in Ceylon.
A great part of the population are
Malays. In the immediate vicinity of
the town are sandhills, which long
threatened to overwhelm the town, ana
have in fact buried several streets, the
old post office, and some other buildings.
Their onward progress is now checked
by the growth of a peculiar grass, and
by plantations of the palmyra palm.
About 20 m. N.K of Hambantotta
is Tissamaharama, the oldest of the
abandoned royal cities of Ceylon.
Except as a place of pilgrimage, the site
had been wholly aoaudoneia till the
restoration of the tank by the Ceylon
Government. From this tank more
than three thousand acres are now culti-
vated in paddy, and both population
and the area under cultivation are
annually increasing. The ruins are
of great antiquity and interest. One
of the oldest and largest of the dagobas,
over 150 ft. high, which was in a very
ruinous condition, has been entirely
restored by the unassisted labour of the
Buddhist population. There are several
other very large dagobas, mostly in
ruins, and some smaller ones in fair con-
dition. The remains of large buildings
are numerous, and the ruins of what is
styled the King's palace, but is more
probably the lower story of a many-
storied monastenr like the Brazen
Palace at Anuradhapura, are specially
worthy of notice. They consist of rows
of huge monolithic columns, much larger
than any at Anuradhapura or PoUona-
rua. Ruins are everywhere scattered
through the dense forest, and excava-
tions here would probably be better re-
paid than at any other spot in Ceylon
There are two ways of reaching Tis-
samaharama from Hambantotta —
(1) The easiest route is that by the
high road to Badulla. On leaving
Hambantotta, the great lewayaa, or
natural salt-pans, whencegreat amounts
of salt, a Oovemment monopoly, are
annually taken, are passed. When the
salt has formed in them they present
the appearance of frozen lakes covered
with snow of dazzling whiteness.
15 m. WirawUa (R.H.) The high
road is here left, and about four miles of
bad country road conducts the traveller
to the Government bungalow above the
tank, which does daij as a Rest-House.
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464
CEYLON
(2) A more interesting route is along
the coast 21 m. to Kirinde (R.H.)} a
small port of picturesque appearance.
There is a road thence to Tissamaha-
rama, about 8 m. in length, which
passes many remains of antiquity.
8 m. beyond Kirinde, along the coast,
is Palutupane (R.H.)) an excellent
centre for shooting excursions, as ele-
Shants, wild buffaloes, bears, leopards,
eer, and wild peacocks aboand in the
wild and unpeopled forests and plains
around it. There are also antiquarian
remains of considerable interest scat-
tered throuj(h the jungle.
From Palutupane tnere is a track,
good for horses, and generally passable
for a rough bullock -cart, to Batticaloa
(130 m. ) (see p. 420). The forest scenery
on the Vala river is very beautiful, and
the whole route presents gi'eat attrac-
tions to the sportsman.
ROUTE 6
Colombo to Trincomalee by Neoom-
BO, PUTTALAM, AND AnURADUA-
PURA.
(Coach to Chilaw ; thence by special con-
veyance.)
A steamboat goes daily, or almost
daily, from Colombo to Negombo, and
from Negombo to Colombo, by the
canal, but it is usually both crowded
and uncomfortable, and very slow.
The coach-road leaves Colombo by
the Bridge of Boats (see p. 414), ana
turning to the left, proceeds by
13 m. Jaela(R.H.)to
23 m. Negombo (R.H.) excellent, a
large and thriving town, picturesquely
and singularly situated among lagoons
and canals, — a true Dutch settlement.
There is a picturesque Dutch gateway,
which "improvers ' have, happily, as
yet failed to remove, and a banyan tree
of magnificent dimensions. The whole
district between Colombo and Negombo
is densely inhabited. The innumer-
able villages are scattered through
cocoa-nut woods, cinnamon gardens,
and groves of jak fruit. The artist
and the photographer can find at eveiy
comer of the countless roads and lanes
an inexhaustible variety of vignettei
of striking beauty. Leaving Negombo,
the road crosses the Maha Oya by i
fine bridge, about 400 ft. in length,
and proceeds through luxuriant cocoa-
nut groves and tobacco plantations to
36 m. Haravila (R.H.) good, a yil
lage rapidly increasing in size and im-
portance. Near it is an enormous and
very costly Roman Catholic Church.
One of the most striking features on
this route is the number and size of the
Roman Catholic churches, erected for
the most part by the people of the
fishing-villages along the coast, who
almost all profess that religion.
41 m. Tinnipitiyawewa tank, one of
the most successful irrigation resttu^-
tions of the Ceylon Government, is
passed (rt.)
48 m. Chilaw (R.H.) good, another
large town, seat of an Assistant Govern-
ment Agency and of the District Court
Here again is another huge Roman
Catholic Church. A lar^e Hindu temple
at Muniseram, in the neighbourhood, is
worth a visit. There is a road from
Chilaw to Eurunegala passing Dun-
degamma, and where there is a pictur-
esque temple. 4 m. beyond Chilaw
the great river Dedaru Oya is passed
by an iron britlge lately erected. A
bad road, through a sandy and un-
interesting country, which, however,
is being rapidly covered with thriving
cocoa-nut plantations, leads to
59 m. Battol Oya, another lairge
river, crossed by a ferry, and then con-
tinues its way through country of a
similar character to
80 m. Puttolam (R.H. ) poor, a con-
siderable place, the headquarters of an
Assistant Government Agent. What
gives Puttalam its importance is the
existence of the largest salt-pans in
Ceylon. The whole island is supplied
with salt from this place or Hamoan-
totta. The process of manufacture,
and the salt-pans, are well worth seeing,
if the visit to Puttalam is made at the
right season. Salt is a Government
monopoly. It is manufactured here,
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ROUTE 7. KANDY TO JAFFNA
455
and at llambantotta, and thence re-
tailed throughout the island.
A canal connects Pnttalam with
Negorabo, but except between Chilaw
ana Negombo it is little used. It is,
however, kept up for the transport of
salt.
The road after leaving Puttalam
strikes inland, and proceeds through a
sandy and thinly-peopled country to
103 m. Eala Oya (R.H. ) The Kala
Oya river is here crossed by a bridge
56 feet above the ordinary level of the
stream, which was nevertheless carried
away by a flood in 1886.
127 m. Anuradhapura (see p. 456).
The road from Anuradhapura to Trin-
comalee paases through
135 m. Mihintale (R.H.) (see p. 467).
After leaving Mihintale, the road
(constructed 1886) passes through a
thinly-inhabited country, the villages,
with their tanks and cultivation, beiug
sparsely scattered through the forest.
160 m. Horowapotane (R.H.) A
large tank and village.
177 m. Pankulam (R.H.) A few
miles beyond Pankulam, on the rt.
of the road, and half a mile from it,
are the remarkable hot springs of
Chimpiddi. They are nine in number,
but tnough of different temperatures,
rise close together in one ancient stone
basin. They are considered equally
sacred by Buddhists, Hindus, and
Mohammedans, and the ruins of a
dagoba, a temple of Vishnu, and
a mosque stand together in the im-
mediate vicinity.
192 m. Trincomalee (see p. 460).
ROUTE 7
Kandy to Jaffna by
Anuradhapura
(To Mat«lR by rail. From Matale to Dambool
a horse-coach runs daily. From Dainbiol
tr. Jaffna a luiIlock-stA^'C aI«o runs <laily,
penbrniing the jouniey in about 70 hrs.)
The railway, which crosses the
Mahawcllfi fJmiffa by a fine bridge on
leaving Kandy, takes us to
16 m. Matale terminus sta. (R.H.)
good, a large and flourishing village
beautifully situated. Tea-estates are
rapidly extending in the neighbourhood
of Matale, and the beauty or the scenery
is consequently disappearing with equal
rapidity ; but the drive between Ma-
tale and Nalande is still very pleasing.
The ground is well broken and beauti-
fully varied with wood and cultivation,
About a couple of miles out of Matale.
only a few hundred yards from the
road-side, is the remarkable Buddhist
temple of Ala Vihara, which it is well
worth stopping for a few minutes to
visit. Huge masses of granite rock have,
at some remote period, fallen from the
mountains overnaiiging the valley.
In the fissures of these boulders, at a
considerable height above the road, the
monastery has oeen constructed. It
is difficult to imagine a site more
picturesque, or more theatrical.
30 m. Nalande. The R.H. (good) is
prettily situated under fine trees, the
finest of which, a gigantic tamarind,
the Public Works Department has
often striven to remove in order to im-
prove the * * symmetry " of the approach.
A steep descent leads to a bridge ; a path
from which, of about J m. to the E.,
conducts the traveller to the ruins of
a Hindu temple beautifully situated.
The road for the first 6 m. after leav-
ing Nalande is very pleasing, passing
through fine open woods, among the
trees of which peeps of bare rocky
mountains and a rushing stream are
obtained. At Naula a road to the W.
leads to Elahera, the head works of an
ancient irrigation system of colossal
dimensions.
46 m. Dambool (R.H.) excellent, a
large village immediately under the
huge black rock in which is situated the
Cave Temple that makes this place
famous, but which piesents no great
attraction to those wno have seen the
cave temf)les of India. At the same
time. Sir Emerson Tennent says of it,
"from its antiquity its ma^itude,
and the richness of its decoration, it is
by far the most renowned in Ceylon."
There is a fine view from the top of
the rock. The tern pi c has large landed
possessions in the neighbourhood.
Digitized by V^
456
CEYLON
[If time permits, an interesting excur-
sion may be made to the rock -fortress
of Sigiri, to which the parricide King
Kasyaj^a retired in the 5tn century after
obtaining the throne of Ceylon by the
murder of hit} father, Dhatu Sena. This
extraordinary natural stronghold, about
15 m. N.K from DambooC is situated
in the heart of the great central forest,
above which it rises abruptly, like the
Bass Rock out of the sea. The journey
is best performed on horseback, as the
track after leaving the Trincomalee
Road is rough. Otherwise it is
necessary to take a bullock-cart, and
the slowness of its progress necessitates
a very early start I^ere are but few
traces of the hand of man remaining
upon the rock, except some galleries
on the N.W. side and some frescoes
high up in a cavity near its summit —
accessible only with the aid of scaling
ladders. The palace, the site of which
is just traceable on the N.W. side, and
the rock itself, are supposed to have
boon surrounded by a fosse,— a tank
still exists on the S.W. side.]
8 m. after leaving Dambool the
Mirisgoni Oya is crossed by a very high
bridge. Immediately after passing it
the road divides. The roaa straight
on leads N.£. to Trincomalee (see
Route 8) ; the branch turning to the
left, N., is that for Anuradhapura and
Jaffna, and passes over an undulating
park • like country and past many
newly restored irrigation works to
58 m. Eekerawa (R.H.) good.
[From Kekerawaau expedition should
be made, 8 m. by good carriage-road,
to the Great Tank of KALAWEWA. ^
This magnificent sheet of water was
originally formed by King Dhatu
Sena about 400 A.D., who bunt a bund
6 m. long, 60 ft. high, and 20 ft broad
on the top. This bund retains the
waters of two rivers, and forms a lake
which even now, when the spill only
reaches a height of 25 ft., has a contour
of nearlv 40 m. A great canal from
one of the sluices of this tank carries
water to Anuradhapura, a distance of 52
, m., and supplies over 100 village tanks
in its course. A few miles of the canal
f*^^ the end nearest Anuradhapura were
restored by Sir William Gregory nearly
20 years ago, but the tank itself and
the remainder of the canal remained in
ruin, as they had been for many cen-
turies, till 1884, when the CeyloB
Government decided to restore them.
The work was completed at the end of
1887. The bungalow of the engineer
in charge commands a fine view oyer
the lake. The ancient spill, 260 ft.
long, 200 ft wide, aud 40 ft high, is
still in perfect preservation ; the tank
haying been destroyed, not by any
failure of the spill, but by an enormous
breach on one side of it, — now coyered
by the new spill wall, a fine structure
nearly 1000 ft in length, which reflects
much credit on its designer and builder,
Mr. W. Wrightson, of the Ceylon Public
Works Department 2 m. W. of
Kalawewa is the Ankona Viharm, an
ancient monastery in a wild and secluded
situation, where is an enormous rock-
cut standing statue of Buddha, 40 ft
high. The statue stands almost en-
tirely free of the rock from which it is
carved, and the right arm is raised
and free from the body of the statue.
At the foot of the bund are ruins of
the very ancient city of Vigitipiira.]
The road frt>m Kekerawa passes for
the most part through monotonous and
uninteresting forest to
70 m. Tirapane (R.H.) 4 m.
farther there is a division in the road.
The branch leading due N. is the straidit
road to Jatfna through MihintsSe;
that to the N.W. proceeds in n&uAj
a straight line to
84 m. ANUBADHAFITRA (R.H.)
good. The traveller who contemplates
a thorough examination of the ruins
is advised to call on the Goyemment
Agent at the Cutcherry, from whom he
wul obtain all necessary informatioii
and assistance. Anuradhapura became
the capital of Ceylon in the 5th cent
B.O., and attained its highest magni-
ficence about the commencement of
the Christian era. It suffered mudi
during the earlier Tamil invasions, and
was finally deserted as a royal residence
769 A.D. A small village has always .
remained on the site, but it is only
since the constitution of the North
d by Google
ROUTE 7. KANDY TO JAFFNA
467
Jentral Province, in 1872, by Sir W.
Jregory, that any revival has taken
»lace in this much neglected district.
>inc6 that date, hundreds of village
auks have been restored ; famine and
he dreadful disease called parangi
produced by the use of bad water and
nsufficient food) have been driven
tway, and the population is yearly
)ecoming more prosperous and healthy.
With a few exceptions, the objects of
nterestatAnuradhapura maybe divided
nto three claaaes—Bagobas^ Monastic
mildingSf and Pokunas,
I. Dagobas. — A dagoba is a bell-
ihaped construction erected over some
-elic of Buddha or his chief disciples,
[t is always solid, and is surmounted
>y a cubical structure called the tee,
vhich again is surmounted by a lofty
ipire. The number of dagobas in
inuradhapura is countless, and they
rary in size from the enormous masses
)f the four great dagobas to tinyobjects
)arely 2 or 3 ft. in diameter. The four
ihief dagobas are —
1. The Mtumwelli Dagoba, completed
L40 B.O. Its diameter is 370 ft., but
t does not retain its ori^nal altitude,
laving been much injured by the
TamilS in different invasions. It is
low only 160 ft. in height. The lower
)art of the structure and the platform
)u which it stands have been carefully
ileared about the year 1873, and the
various fragments of the so-called
' chapels " put together and restored.
2. The Abhayagiriya. This is the
argest dagoba in Anuradha^unu Its
liameter is 357 ft, and its height when
)erfect was 405 fb. It has now lost
preat part of the pinnacle, and its
present height is only about 330 ft.
[t stands on a grand paved platform,
I acres in extent, raised some feet above
;he surrounding enclosure. The enor-
nous mass of bricks in this structure
)afQes conception. Emerson Tennent
calculates that they are sufficient to
sonstruct a town of the size of Ipswich
)r Coventry, or to build a wall 10 ft.
ligh from London to Edinburgh. The
;ee on the summit having shown
lymptoms of falling, it, and what re-
nained of the stump of the spire above
tf have been put into a thoroughly safe
condition by the Ceylon Gk)V6mment,
but the lower part remains overgrown
and untouched. It was completed 87
B.C. The summit can now be easily
reached, and commands a magnificent
view.
3. The Jaytawanarama, built 275
A.D., was of about the same dimensions
as the Abhayagiriya. No restoration
has been attempted here, but the trees
which grew all over it have been
cleared off ite surface.
4. The Miriswetiya^ though smaller
than the foregoing, is remarkable for
the unusually fine sculpture of its so-
called "chapels." It is now being
restored, chiefly at the expense of a
Siamese prince.
Among the minor dagobas, the Lan-
karama and Thuparama, each sur-
rounded by three circles of carved
columns, are among the most remark-
able and most elegant
II. The remains of Monastic Build-
ing^ are to be found in every direction,
in the shape of raised stene platforms,
foundations, and stone pillars. The
walls themselves between the pillars
have usually disappeared. One of the
most remarkable of these remains is te
be seen near the R.H. It consists of
1600 stone pillars about 12 ft. high and
only a few feet distant from each other,
arranged in about 100 parallel rows.
These pillars formed the lowest story
of the famous nine-storied "Brazen
Palace," or monastery, erected by King
Datagamana about 400 a.d. But the
clusters of pillars, with capitals more or
less highly carved, and of platforms of
pavilions in every direction for 10 m.
are innumerable. Among the most
remarkable is one called the Queen's
Palace, the semicircular door-step of
which is carved with a double proces-
sion of animals and studies of flowers.
III. The Pokunas are bathing- tanks,
or tanks for the supply of drinking
water. They differ from irrigation
tanks in being wholly constructed of
masonry or of cement These too are
countless in number, and are to be
found everywhere through the jungle.
The finest is the double bathing-tank
Digitized by VjOOQIC
458
OSTLON
in the outer circular road, into which
elaborately carved staircases descend.
But there is one object of interest in
Anuradhapura which does not come
under any of these heads — the lacred
Bo tree and its surroundings. This
tree, of which only a fragment now
remains, is probably the oldest histori-
cal tree existing. It was planted 245
B.C., and from that time to this has
been watched over by a succession of
guardians never interrupted. It stands
on a small terraced mound, and is sur-
rounded by a goodly number of promis-
ing descendants. The acyacent build-
ings are all modem, but the entrance
to the enclosure possesses a fine semi-
circular door-step or '*moon stone."
The large tanks of Nuwerawewa,
Tissawewa, and Basawakulam, the two
latter of which are filled from Kala-
wewa, have restored to the neighbour-
hood of Anuradhapura much of its
former fertility.
[8 m. £. of Anuradhapura is Ml-
hintale ( R. H. ), a rocky hill crowned with
a large dagoba, and literally covered
with the remains of temples, monas-
teries, and hermitages. Ancient stairs of
many hundred steps lead to the summit,
whence there is a very fine view over
the forest plain, from which the great
dagobas of Anuradhapura stand up like
the pyramids or natural hills. The
centre of attraction at Mihintale is
Mahindo's Bed^ the undoubted cell
occupied by Mahiudo, the apostle of
Buddhism in Ceylon, and containing
the stone couch on which he lay. It
is difficult of access, but the view from
it repays the exertion of reaching
it.]
On leaving Anuradhapura, the road
passes through uninteresting low jungle
all the way to ElephatU Pass, Tne
es are as follows : —
95 m. from Kandy (by direct road
through Mihintale), Maddawachchifa,
R.H., an insignificant village, but im-
portant as the point of junction of four
main roads.
[A road hence N.W. leads toMaxmaar
<147 m.), passing the unfinished Oiant^s
Tank and the magnificent masonry dam
which was to divert the Arwoi Aar to
fill it. Mannaar is a dreary spot com-
manded by an old Dutch fort, and only
remarkable for the number of the
African Baobabs which grow freely
there, having probably been imported
by Arabs in the Middle Ages.]
Ill m. Vavuniya - vilankulam, a
small town, the headquarters of the
district, on the edge of a newly restored
tank. Fair R.H.
120 m. Irampaikkalam B.H.
[Road branches off here to Mvllait-
tiTa on N.E. coast.]
182 m. Kaaakarayanknlam R.H.
142 m. Panikkankolam R.H.
154 m. Iranamadu R.H.
All these are small R.Hs., with a
certain amount of rough furniture, but
without linen or any stock of provi-
sions.
The scrub gets lower and smaller, and
the soil poorer and sandier, as we pur-
sue the tedious straight road to
166 m. Elephant Pass. So named
because here the herds of elephants
were in the habit of coming from the
mainland through the shallow water to
the peninsula of Jaffna, which is now
entered by a long causeway crossing
the arm of the sea which all but divide
the district of Jafhia from the remainder
of Ceylon.
The R.H. is the old Dutch fort at
the edge of the water, — quaint and
picturesque.
174 m. Pallai (R.H.) We are now
in a totally different region from that
between Anuradhupura and Elephant
Pass. The peninsula of Jafifna is the
home of a bus^, noisy, and closely- I
packed Dopulation. Every acre is
cultivatea and the garden-culture is of
beautiful neatness. The fine load
passes through a succession of lai^
villages as it proceeds.
187 m. Chavakaeheheri (R.H.)
good, a large village surrounded by
immense groves of the palmyra palm,
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ROUTE 8. KANDY TO TRINCOMALEE
459
which in this Province takes the place
occupied hy the cocoa-nut palm in the
south.
201 m. JafEaa or Jafihapatam, a
large and flourishing town of 38,000
inhabitants, see of a Roman Catholic
bishop.
The old Dutch Forty of considerable
size, is in perfect preservation, and is a
good si)ecimou of a 17th cent, fortifica-
tion. Within it are the Queen's Htmse
(the Governor's residence when he
visits Jatfna), an old Dutch Church
containing curious tombstones, the
residences of certain officials, and the
prison. On the esplanade between the
fort and the city stauds a graceful
Clock Toiver, built in 1882. Many
interesting excui'sions may bo made
from Jatfna, of which those best de-
serving mention are, perhaps, the
following : —
1. To the American Mission Stations
at Oodooville, Batticotta, and Kopay,
where thousands of children are edu-
cated and much useful work done.
2. To Puttoor, where is a very re-
markable well or tank of great depth,
which is to all appearance inexhaustible
and ebbs and flows slightly daily.
3. To Point Pedro, tne northern
port of Jaflha.
There are some interesting Hindoo
temples at Jaffna and in its vicinity.
ROUTE 8
Kandy to Trincomalee (with excur-
sion to Pollonarua).
(Prom Dambool a mail carriage drawn by bul-
locks starts daily for Trincomalee. The ex-
cursion to PoUouarua must be made on
horseback.)
As far as Dambool this route is the
same as Rte. 7.
On crossing the bridge over the
Mirisgoni Oya, instead of turning 1. to
Anuradhapura and Jaflha (Rte. 7), the
road proceeds straight on, and passing
rt. tne track to Sigiri (Rte. 7), con-
tinues chiefly through dense but poor
forest, varied by one or two villages in
the midst of small clearings, to
60 m. (from Kandy) Habarane
(R.H.) The village, though small, is
increasing since the restoration of its
tank. There is a picturesque Bwidkist
Temple of considerable antiquity, in
which are paintings of better design
and execution than are usually found
in such places. From the great rock
by the tank a singular view is obtained
over the great sea of forest to the N.
and E., out of which rises with start-
ling abruptness the rock pillar of
Sigiri (sec ilte. 7).
[From Habarane an extremely inter-
esting excui-sion may be made to Pol-
lonarua {'62 m.), one of the ancient
and deserted eajutals of C<ylon. This
expedition must be made on horseback,
as the road is merely a rough bridle-
path through the forest. After passing
for about 18 m. through wood so dense
that it is seldom the eye can penetrate
more than a few yds. on either side of
the path, Mineri is reached. The
journey varies in length according to the
state of the lake, which has to be skirted,
and which varies in size considerably
according to the season. This lake is all
that remains of a huge tank, the bund
of which still exists, but of which the
sluices, though not destroyed, are now
permanently kept open by fallen masses
of masonry. The scenery of this lake
is enchanting, and nothing can exceed
the beauty both in form and colour of
the mountain ranges to the S. There
is a sort of shelter at the Gansabhawa
tribunal in the village below the bund,
but the traveller is strongly recom-
mended to have some temporary shelter
put up for him on the bund itself,
where there is fresh air, and whence
he can enjoy the exquisite views during
a midday halt. Half way between
Mineri and Pollonania is the small
lake of Giritella, also an abandoned
tank, and also highly picturesque.
The approach to Pollonarua (R.H.),
like that to Mineri, varies considerably
in length according to the height of
water m the lake. On the bund is a
R.H. overlooking the lake. The view
is very similar to that from Mineri,
and is of gi'eat beauty, though less so
now than it was before some zealous
public officer, in his desire that nothing
Digitized by VjOOQIC
460
CETLON
should impede the view to the S., cut
down a clump of trees on a projecting
promontory, which must have formed
a lovely foreground to it.
PoUonariia first became a royal resi-
dence in 3d8 A.D., when the lake of
Topawetoa was formed, but it did not
take rank as the capital till the middle
of the 8th cent. The principal ruins,
however, are of a later date, being
chiefly of the time of Prakrama Bahu,
1153-1186 A.D. It is now wholly
deserted, and the masses of ruin, which
are strewed for miles around, have to
be sought in the dense jungle. The
following are the principal objects of
interest.
About 1 m. S. of the R.H. is the
colossal rook-cut statue of Prakrama
Bahu, a cast of which is to be seen in
the Colombo Museum. To the W. lie
the ruins of what appears to have been
a strong tower, the probably wooden
interior of which is wholly gone ; and
a little farther in the same direction
are the royal pavilions and bathing-
tank, ornamented by much elegant
sculpture.
Aoout i m. to the N. is a remarkable
group of buildings: The Dalada, or
tooth-shrine, a fine granite building in
good preservation, and having much
ele^nt ornament of quasi -Hindu
desiffu ; the Thuparama, a large mas-
sive orick building, of which the front
and the roof of the eastern part have
fallen i the inner chamber preserves its
vault, and is surmounted by a tower ;
the Wate Dage, a curious circular
edifice on a raised mound, with 4 carved
staircases, and a low stone terrace with
an ornamental parapetof unique design ;
and the Ata Dage, a large temple much
ruined. In the same immediate vicin-
ity are the Satmahal Frasada, — a tower
of seven stones of diminishing size ; a
Buddhist " post and rail " enclosure ;
and a little farther to the £. the
Vishnu Dewale, a very ornamental
structure of semi-Hinau design, in
good preservation.
i m. further N. is the Bankot Da-
goba, built in the 12th cent It is
200 ft. in height, with a diameter of
180 ft. The spire is very perfect;
even the statues surrounding the
drum bein^ clearly discernible. Near
it, but to the N., is the Jetawanarama,
a temple 170 ft. in length, at the end
of which is a statue of Buddha over
60 ft. in height. The Kiri dagobt,
about 100 fL high, the chunam coat-
ing of which is still very perfect, is k
the immediate neighbourhood of thii
building.
Another i m. of jungle has to bi
traversed to reach the Gal Vihara, a
spot where are a rock -cut figure of
Buddha sitting, a colossal statue of
Amanda, Buddha's favourite disciple,
and a reclining figure of Buddha, 46
ft. long, cut out of the solid rock.
1 m. farther N. again is the Demala
Maha Saya, a very lar^e building,
highly ornamented, of which the roof
and upper part of the walls have fallen
in. The a^bris was partially cleared
away in 1886, when many interesting
frescoes were found on the walls, bat
these have since to a great extent
perished from exposure.
The dagobas of Pollonarua will not
compare with those of Anuradhapura,
but the buildings of the temples and
other structures are in far better pre-
servation. A huge red lotus grows in
great profusion in the lake, probably
the descendant of those cultivated for
use in the temples and palaces of the
city. Pollonarua seems to have been
abandoned about the end of the 13th
cent.]
75 m. Alutoya (R.H.), in the midst
of the thick forest ; not a bad sta. for
sportsmen. The country is flat, and
the jungle of such uniform character
as to become very monotonous. Mon-
keys are certain to be seen crossing the
road in large troops, during t^
portion of the journey.
92 m. Eantalai (R.H.), on the bmid
of the great tank of Eantalai, restored
by Sir W. Gregory in 1875.
106 m. Palampoddara (R. H. ), on the
edge of a stream in a very wild country.
116 m. Trincomalee (R.H.), a town
with a fine harbour, on the N.E. coast
of the island. It is built on the N. side
of the bay, on the neck of a bold penin-
Digitized by VjOOQIC
ROUTE 9. A flPOBTING TOUB
461
lula, se])aratiiig the inner from the
mter harbour. The latter is about 4
iq. m. in extent, with very deep water.
Tne place is well laid out, but the
bouses are poor. Pop. 10,000.
The town was one of the earliest
tiettlements of the Malabar race in
Ceylon. They built a great temple on
the spot where Fort Frederick now
stands. The building was destroyed
by the Portuguese when they took the
place in 1622, and the materials were
employed to build the fort ; but the
site is still held in great veneration,
and every week a Brahman priest, in
the presence of a large crowd, throws
ofiferings into the sea from a ledge
near the summit of a huge precipice of
black rock : a most picturesque scene.
Since the expulsion of the Portuguese,
European nations have held the place
in the following order: Dutch, 1639
A.D. ; French, 1673 A.D. ; Dutch, 1674
A.D. ; French, 1782 A. D. ; Dutch, 1783
A.D. ; Enjijlish, 1796. It was taken by
the English fleet after a siege of three
weeks, and was formally ceded to
Great Britain by the Treaty of Amiens
in 1801.
Trincomalee is the principal naval
station of the Indian seas. The dock-
yard is in the inner harbour, and there
is deep water close to the best wharves.
A laree amount has lately been ex-
pended on the improvement of its
fortifications.
ROUTE 9
A Sporting Tottb
Such a tour as the following, of
course, requires some degree of prepara-
tion. Though there are Rest-Houses
on the route indicated, they are but
few. They contain probably no furni-
ture save a table and a bench or two,
and are auite destitute of supplies.
The traveller or sportsman will have
to carry his own food, cooking utensils,
bedding, and tent ; and this will neces-
sitate the employment of numerous
^ porters, whose pace must regulate his
own, though, if on horseback, he can
get over the ground more rapidly than
they do. If expense is not an object,
it would be well to cet temporary
shelters of bamboo and leaf thatch put
up at those places where there is no
ICest-House, for the tent is but an in-
different protection against either fierce
sun or heavy rain, and health may
seriously suffer in consequence. Of
course it is not supposed to be likely
that any sportsman would make the
wfiole of this tour, but it indicates a
line of country any part of which
would make a good centre for sport.
The animals to 1^ found are elephants,
bears, leopards, deer, and in some
places wild buffaloes ; wild peacocks
abound in the forests, and the tanks
and marshes are full of wildfowl ; they
also swarm with crocodiles.
Starting from Badnlla by carriage
the road to Bibile is described in
Route 2.
Here wheel conveyance must be
abandoned, and the distance must be
counted not by miles but in hours,
the hour being calculated on the ordi-
nary pace of a loaded porter.
6hrs.Nilgala(RH.) A small village
with a little patch of paddy cultivation^
situated most picturesc|nely on a river
at the entrance to a wild and narrow
4 hrs. Dambegalla (RH.) A
small village, in the vicinity of which
irrigation works have recently been
constructed.
3 hrs. Meddegama (RH.) In a
very pretty jungle country abounding
with elephants.
5 hrs. Nakelo (R.H.) There is a
picturesque Buddhist temple on the
side of a mountain in the. neighbour-
hood.
3 hrs. Buttale (R.H.) An oasis
of cultivation in the jungle, due to
the restoration of its ancient irriga-
tion works. Everywhere through the
forests the ruins of ancient systems of
irrigation and other vestiges of civilisa-
tion are to be found.
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46 -J
CEYLON
4 Inrs. Qalge. A mass of bare rocks
rising from tlie jungle. There is no
Rest- House here, and though some
shelter may be obtained in caves, tents
or a tem)K>rary house would be needed.
3 hrs. Kateragam (R. H. ) A famous
place of Hindu pilgiimage, to which
worahippei-s were wout to resort from
kbW parts of India, as, indeed, they
occasionally still do. The pilgrimage
was found to produce snch miscliievnus
effects in the spread of disease that
the Ceylon Government has for many
years endeavoured to check it, and it
is now reduced to comparatively small
numbers. Still, at the time of the
annual pilgrimage, the temple and its
vicinity form a picturesque and inter-
esting sight The temple itself is but
an inbigniticant building, and a single
gilt-metal tile forms the only relic of
the golden roof for which it was once
celebrated.
6 hrs. Palutupaae (R.H.) (see p.
454). In the Southern Province.
4 hrs. Yala River (R.H.) (a mere
hut). We are here in the midst of
the best sporting country, and here
begins the district in which wild
buH'aloes are still found. Good forest
scenery on river.
8 hrs. Uda Potana. No Rest-House.
About two hours from Uda Potana
we reach the ford crossing the Kumba-
kan Aar, the boundary between the
SoutheiTi and Eastern Provinces, and
about an hour farther is Eomani
(R.H.), near a small village.
4 hrs. Okanda (R.H.) at the foot of
a bare rock rising out of the sea of
jungle. Peacocks are to be found in
great abundance in the neighbourhood
of Okanda.
5 hrs. Nanla (R.H.), a small village.
6 hrs. Lahugalawewa. A restored
tank ; the haunt of many wild fowl.
There is a Public Works Bungalow
at the tank. Its accommodation is
limited. Many elephants in the neigh-
bourhood.
From this point an excursion of
some days may be made through the
wild country on the border of Urn
and the Eastern Province. There are
next to no villager, and the only
accommodation, not specially nrovidei
for, would have to be founa in tbi
meagre hospitality of some secluded
Buddhist monastery, of which a few
are scattered through the forests. It
is useless to indicate any particular
route, as that would certainly be made
to depend upon the reports received as
to the haunts of wild animals at the
time.
It may, however, be assumed that a
return to comparative civilisation will
be made at Izrakamam, a restored tank,
where there is a Public Works Bunga-
low. In its vicinity are the scanty
ruins of what was once an enormoos
dagoba, and a good road leads hence
to Kalmunai on the coast, and thence
to (22 m.) Batticaloa (see Rte. 2). The
sj)ortsman, however, will probably
prefer to proceed through the jungles to
Amparai and Chadiyantalawa tanks,
both of which are swarming with
crocodiles ; and from the latter to
6 hrs. the river Nemal Aar, the
boundary of the Eastern Province, on
crossing which the traveller finds him-
self again in Uva.
5 hrs. riding along a good track will
bring him back to Nilgala, from whence
he may either return to BaduUa the
way he came, or by 6 hrs. Medtleffsma
(R.H.) and 4 hrs. Alupota (R.H.) in
a lovely position, rejoining the main
road to Badulla at (2 hrs.) Passara
(R.H.)8ee Route 2.
^nuradhapura and Ti'incomalee are
also good centres from which to make
sporting excursions.
d by Google
INDEX AND DIEECTORY FOR 1901
(R.)=; Refreshment Room ; D.B. = Dak or Travellers' Bungalow ;
R.H. =Re8t House ; H. = Hotel.
ABBOTABAD, D.B., 2l2.
ABU (MOUNT). See Mtmnt
AbiL.
ABU ROAD (R.), 119.'
, D.B. close to rly. sta.
Ponies and other convey-
ances obtainable.
ACHILaHAR, 120.
ACHNBRA (R.), 167, 182.
ADAM'S PEAK, 446, 449.
ADAMWAHAN BRIDGE,
224.
ADONI, 333.
AORA(R.), D.B. good, 167.
Hotels : Laurie's Great
Northern H., about 1 m.
from rly. sta., beet ; Castle d
Imperial H. ; H. Mitropole.
Banks: B. of Bengal, The
Uncovenanted B.
Ghurclies : St. George's,
Cantonment, Matins daily,
7.30 A.M., Sunday 10 a.m.,
with H. C. ; Evensong, 6 p.m. ;
St. Paul's, Civil Lines, 8
A.M., Matins with H. C.
alternate Sundays ; ,'<t.
MiUhias's, Agra Fort, 8 a.m..
Matins alternate Sundays ;
R. C. CathedralmCiviMAxiQ^.
, Olub : Agra C, near Po.st
Office.
l»S8loiis: C.M.S., St.
John's College.
Shops: Shawl Merchants,
Gold and. Silver Embroidery,
Gunashi Lall and Son's,
Jahori Bazaar ; Soap-stone,
arid Inlaid Marble Work,
Xulhoo Ram, opposite Agra
College.
AHAR, 86.
[India, viii. 01.]
AHMEDABAD (R.), 111.
No Hotel : D.B. 200 yds.
S.W. of Church, just outside
Delhi Gate; Good Bedrooms
attached to the rly. sta.
Refreshment Room.s,
AHMEDNAGAR(R.),D.B.330.
dub good.
Golf Club.
Missions: S.P.G., see p.
330.
AIWALLI, 315.
AJANTA, 31.
AJMERE (R.), 123.
Sleeping Rooms at tlie
Rly. Sta. excellent. D.B.
Club: Kaiser Bagh.
Mission : Medical of U.F.
Church of Scotland.
AJODHYA, 249.
AKOLA, 74.
AKYAB, D.B., 438.
Club : Akyab Gymkhana
Club, Main Road.
Ctoneral Stores : Wood-
ward and Co., Jacob OMd Co.,
Cohen and Abdul Kmlir.
ALIABAD SERAI, 220.
ALIGARH, 257.
D.B. Kellner's Refresh-
ment and Sleeping Rooms.
ALIWAL, 196.
ALLAHABAD (R.). 30.
Kellner's Rooms, at-
tached to the rly. sta., afford
comfortable sleeping accom-
modation, and Jire perlmps
the best place to stop at.
Chota-hazri is provided in
the rooms, but other meals
have to be taken in the Rly.
Refreshment Room.
Hotels : Laurie's Great
Northern H.
Club : N. IK P. Club.
Missions ; C.M.S., St.
Paul's Church ; Divinity
College.
Newspapers: The Pioneer,
a daily i>aper, one of the
most iniix)rtant in India ;
Tlie Pioneer Mail, for readers
in Europe. The Morning
Post.
ALMORAH, 254.
D.B., but no hotels.
Houses are to be obtained
on hire.
ALOR, 225.
ALUPOTA, R.H., 462.
ALUTNUWERA, 447.
ALUTOYA, R.H. small, well
situated for sportsmen, 400.
ALWAR (Ulwar), 130.
D.B. close to rly. sfa.
Application should be ma'lfe
beforehand to the Mahara-
jah's Secretary for rooms,
and for tKe use of a carriage,
which is kindly put at the
disposal of visitors (there is
a small charge); also for per-
mission to visit the Palace,
Library, Trejisury, and
Annoury. There are Rooms
at the Maharajah's private
rly. sta. Travellers are some-
times allowed to occupy
them on application to the
Maharajah'^s Secretary, but
they are not good, and there
is no cook on the premises.
Mission: U.F. Ch. of Scot.
AMARAPURA, 429.
AMARAVATI, 360.
AMARKANTAK. 76
AMARNATH CAVE, 219
AMBALANGODA, R.H. tirst-
class : ■ good bathing-place,
452.
AMBALANTOTTA, R.H. fair,
453.
AMBARNATH, 28, 318.
AMBEPUSSA, 443.
AMBER, 128. See Jeypore.
(R.) at foot of hill.
itizedbyG00gIe2 H
466
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
AMGAON (R.X 76.
AMMAYANAYAKANUR,
404.
D.B. comfortal)le, close
to rly. 8ta., convenient for
travellers to and from
Palney Hills, Madura.
AMPARAI, 462.
AMRAOTI, 84, 74.
Waiting and Refresh-
ment Rooms. Good D.B.
AMRTTSAR (R.X 196.
D.B. poor. Travellers are
recommended to take rooms
and have chota-hazri here,
but to have other meals at
the rly. sta. close by.
Hotel: Civil & Military H.
Missions : C.M.S., St.
Paul's Church ; Schools and
Hospital.
ANADRA, D.B., 1^1.
ANAGUNDI, 358.
ANAND, 110.
ANANDALE, 192.
ANDHOR, 88.
ANJIDIVA ISLAND, 364.
ANURADHAPURA, R.H.
good, 456.
ARGOT, 371.
ARJ UNA'S PENANCE, 411.
ARKONAM (R.), 386.
Excellent sleeping accom-
modation at rly. sta.
ARRAH, D.B., 47.
ARSIKERE (R.), 362.
ASENSOL, 61, 78.
ASIRGARH HILL-PORT, 34.
ASOKA'S PILLARS, 38, 142.
ASSAM VALLEY, 273.
Mail GommiuiicaUon
with Calcutta. The mail
train leaves Calcutta at 1
P.M., reaches Teesta at 8
A.M. next morning, and is at
Jatrapur on the Brahma-
putra the same afternoon.
The mail steamer starts in
connection with the train
up-stream, via Dhubri, and
reaches Gauhati the next
evening, and Dibnigarh 3
days later.
Missions: American Medi-
cal Mission has several sta-
tions in Assam.
ASSAROREE, D.B., 256.
ATCHIBAL, 219.
ATTOOK, D.B., 212.
AURANGABAD, D.B. good,
65,
AVA, 429.
AVANTIPORE, 219
AVISAWBLLA, R.H. excel-
lent, 449. Hotel.
AWATKOOLA, 217.
AZIMGANJ, 264.
B.
BADAMI, 312.
BADNBRA (R. and Waiting
Room), D.B., 74.
BADULLA, R.H. good, 447.
BAGDEHI, 77.
BAHADARPUR, 109.
BAHAWALPUR, D.B., 224.
BAILLUR, 860.
BALANGODA, R.H., 450.
BALAPILLI, 335.
BALASORE, D.B., 292.
BALIGUNJ, 61.
BALIPITHAM, 409.
BALSAR, 106.
BALTAL, 219.
BAMBURA, 281.
BANAWAR, 360.
BAND A (R.), D.B., 103.
Club : Banda C.
BANDARAWELLA, . Good
hotel, lately opened, 450.
BAN DEL, 64.
BANDIKUI (R.), 129, 167.
BANDRA, 104.
BANGALORE (R.), 376.
Hotels : West End H. best,
Cubbon H. (accommodation
at these 2 hotels is above the
average), Boioring JL, Mayo
H.y CantrOnmetU H., Polo
Ground H.
Club: United Service C,
27 Residency Road.
BANKIPUR (R.), 48.
D.B. good, near rly. sta.
Bank : Bank of Madras.
Churohes : St. Mark's and
St. Thomas's.
BANSHANKAR, 314.
BARA, D.B., 214.
BARADE, 237.
BARAKAR, 51.
BARAMGALLA, D.B., 220.
BARAMUI^, 217.
D.B. Good.
BARANG, 353.
BARCHANA, D.B., 290.
BARDA HELLS, 164.
BABEILLY, D.B., 238.
Reynolds and Co.'sB^fnA-
m£nt Room^ at the rly. sU.
Club : Bareilly C.
BAKNI HAT, D.B., 274.
BARODA, 108.
Good Be&eitiune»t and
Waiting Booms and sleei>-
ing accommodation.
D.B. in camp, 1^ m. from
rly. sta.
Cburcbes : Axgucas—
consecrated by Bp. Heber,
1824 ; restored 1838. There
are also R.C. and Methodist
Churches.
BARRACKPUB, 62.
BARSI ROAD(R.), R.H.,33L
BARWA-8AUGAB, D.B.,10i
BASSEIN (Burma), 438.
BASSEIN ROAD, 104.
Waiting Boom at rly. sta.
D.B. near ruins. Write to
station-master for carriage.
BASTAMBADI, 288.
BATINDA, 166, 224.
BATTICALOA, R.H., 448.
Steamship Agents :
B. I.S.N. Co., W. T. Warn-
beck and Co.
BATTUL OYA, 454.
BATWA, 117.
BAUMARI, 102.
BAWAN, 219
BBAWAR, D.B., 123.
BEDSA OAVES, 828.
BELELI, 236.
BELGAUM (R.X 299.
D.B. ^ m. fi-oui sta.
BELIHULOYA, R.H. good,
422.
BELLART(R.), D.B., 357.
Hotel : AbraJumi's H.
BELPAHAN, 77.
BBLUNGALA HILL, 444.
BELUR, 360.
BENARES, D.B., 39.
Hotels: H. de Paris;
Clark's H. both good.
Missions : CM^ (at
Sigra), St. Paul's Choceb,
College and Normal Schools.
BENTOTTA, B.H. very good,
452.
BERAR,73.
BERARLI, 221.
BERHAMPUR, D.B.^Sfl6w
BBRHAMPUR<Gai\jam> SSS.
3d by Google
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
"^cXvL/t
,M/t/
467
BEYPUR, 868.
Steamship Agents :
B.I. *S.N. Co.,AndrewanclCo.
BBYT, 164.
BEZWADA (B.)
D.B., 352, S5S.
Is the June, of the B. C!oast
Rly. (of which the first sod
was cut in Oct. 1890) with
the Bellary-Kistiia (8. Mah-
ratta Rly. Co.) and Nizam's
Rlys.
BHAJA OAVES, 823.
BHAKKnB(R.), D.B., 225.
BHAMO, 480.
BHANDARA ROAD, D.B.,
76.
BHAUNAGAB, 155.
D.B. Horse and bullock
shigrams to be had.
BHAYANDAR, 104.
BHEWANI, 165.
BHILSA, 87.
BHIMBER, D.B., 220.
BHIM TAL, 254.
BHOJESPURA, 253.
BHOJPUR, 88.
BHOPAL(R.), 86.
D.B. near rly. sta.
BHUMTI, 164.
BHUBTPUB, 167.
D.B. outside the 5lattwi
Gate.
BPIUSAWAL (B.), 34, 73.
BHUTIA BUSTI, 271.
BHTJVANBSHWAB, 283, 353
BIBILB, R.H., 448.
BIBI NANI, 237.
BIDAR, 351.
BUAPUB (B.), 304.
D.B. in mosque attached
to the Gol Gunibaz. J m.
from rly. sta., where Tongas
are to be had. Clean, good
meals, but should be ordered
beforehand.
BIKANIR, 123.
BILASPUB (B.), 76.
BILE8HWAR, 164.
BIMLAPATAM, 852.
BINA (R.), 89.
BIKDRABAN, 186.
BLACK PAGODA, 282.
60LANPASS, 236, 237.
BOLARAM, 848.
BOMBAY, 1
Hotels : Men properly
iuti-oduced can obtain ac-
commodation at most of
the clubs ; GrtcU Western H.
(comfortable, recommended)
Aix>llo Bundur H., both in
Apollo Street ; Watson's Es-
pUuiade H., good x>osition
close to Secretariat: this
hotel has an Annexe, where
travellers will probably be
more comfortable than at
the hotel itself; The Gymk-
hana H. in the Fort, small ;
Gamballa H., on Camballa
Hill (best for a lengthened
stay).
Bestaurants : Victoria
Station, Restaurant : TJie
Apollo, Apollo Bandar ;
Coniaglia late PelUi (con-
fectioner), 83 Meadow St.
Agents : Mess-rs. King,
King and Co., Standard
Buildings, Hornby Row
(blanch of Henry S. King and
Co., 65 Comhill), Watson
and Co., 8 Hornby Road,
GrivdUty, Groom and Co.,
Elphinstone Circle. These
firms undertake all business
in connection with travel-
ling and financial arrange-
ments, forwarding of goods,
engagmg of native servants,
etc., m India.
Thos. Cook and Son, Ram-
part Row, supply all kinds
of information about excur-
sions and tours in India, and
provide circular tickets, etc.
Bands : On certain days
of the week at the Yacht
Club and on the Esplanade,
a favourite promenade ; also
at Victoria Gardens, By-
culla, on Saturday.
Bankers: Bank of Bom-
hay, Elphinstone Circle ;
Chartered Bank of India,
Elphinstone Circle ; Hong-
Kong and Shanghai Bank;
Church Ciate St. ; National
Banko/India,'Rsiinyart Row.
Baths: Salt-water Sunm-
ming Baths on Back Bay,
and at Breach Candy. The
swimming bath is 60 ft. by
30 ft., and from 4 J ft. to
10 ft. deep. The subscrip-
tion is a rupee a month, and
those who do not subscribe
pay 2 annas for each bath.
Bathers can have coflTee and
cigarettes. The baths are
open for sultscribers on
Sund. before 8 a.m. ; on
Tues. and Frid. before 10
A.M. ; and for ladies on
Mon. and Thurs. before 10
A.M. At other hours non-
subscribers may bathe.
Booksellers: Thadcerand
Co., Ltd., A. J. Cambridge
and Co., both in Esplanade
Road.
Chemists : Kemp and Co.,
corner of Church Gate St.
and Elphinstone Circle ;
Treacher and Co., Esj'lanade
Road ; rhillips and Co., Es-
planade Road; all three
have establishments at By-
culla; Taylor and Co., Es- '
planade. *
Churches, etc., see pp. 9
and 10.
Clubs : Byailla Club, Bel-
lasis Road, Byculla, with
sleeping accommodation at-
tached. Strangers admitted
as hon. members.
Bombay Club, 26 Esplan-
ade. The entrance fee, 100
rs., monthly subscription,
6 rs. Strangers admitted as
hon. members. Enquire at
Club for price of rooms.
Tlie cuisine is good.
Yacht Club, on the Apollo
Bandar,overlookingthe bay.
Subscription for Strangers .
admitted as members, 16 rs.
a month. Iiadies are ad-
mitted when accompanied
by a member or hon. menj-
ber. 200 rs. entrance fee ff>r
permanent membership, and
6 rs. a month.
The Bombay Gi/mkhana
and Golf Club, Queen's Road.
Subscription, 4 rs. a month.
hulies' Gymkhana, The
Ridge, Malabar Hill, with
lawn tennis and badminton
grounds. A favourite resort
in the evenings. Fine view
over Back Bay. Hon. mem-
bers admitted.
Consuls: American, Mr.
W. T. Fee, Ezra Buildinir,
Apollo Bandar. There aie
representatives of most
other nati»)ns.
Conveyances: A carriage,
with a single horse, will cost
5 rs. a day, with 2 horses,
10 rs., but there are plenty
of carriages in the streets to
be hired by tiie trip at
moderate fixed fares.
Dentists : Bromley and
Campbell, Dean Lane.
Oeneral Stores : Treacher
and Co.; 'Bolton and Co.,
Esplanade ; Army and Navy
Stores, Apollo St. ; PhUlips
and Co., Esplanade.
d by Google
468
INDEX AND DIRBCTORT
Hairdressers : Fiteile,
under Bombay Club.
House Axent : E. florcer,
Humniam St.
Libraries : Asiatic Society
Library in the Town Hall ;
the SoMoan Institute, Es-
planade, adjoining Watson's
H. (strangers can join the
lending library for a week).
Markets: Crawford, for
ftnit, vegetables, flowers,
poultry, meat, etc.
Cloth, in Native Quarter,
Shaik Memon St.
Cotton, Cotton Green,
Colaba.
Copper, close to Momba-
devi Tank, Native Quarter.
Opium, there is no definite
market-place, but business '
U transacted in the streets
of the Native Quarter.
Medical Men: Dr. Sidney ,
Smith, Mazagon ; Dr Dim-
mock, Dr. Childe, F. A. Foy. \
Merchants: for H'ood can'- j
ing. Inlaid work. Silks, and i
Enthroideries, Tellery and
Co., Esplanade Road (verj' ,
good), and also at the shops
in Kalbadevi Road and the
ad.ioining streets.
Milliner, Dressmaker, ,
etc., Misi IVaUton, Esplan- |
a<lo Road ; Laidlaw and i
IVhiteway, Esplanade ; Bad-
ham and Co.
Missions, etc., see p. 10. {
Newspapers : There are \
two leading English papers ,
in Bombay, the Times of
India and the Bomi>ay Gaz-
ette, besides a nnmber of
native papers. The Adm-
cate of India is an English
evening paper.
Ooulist : Dr. Herbert.
Opticians : Uiwrence and
Mayo ; Marcks and Co. —
both in Esplanade Road.
Outfitters: Badham and
Pile, Limited: Watson and
Co. ; Laidlaw and Whiteway; i
Hoar and Co. — all in |
Esplanade Road.
Photographers: F.Ahrle, '
Esplanade Road : Bourne
and Shepherd, Esplanade
Road: Taurines, Meadow St.
Railways: There are two
lines out of Bombay —
(1) The Creat Indian
l^eninsida lily, (known as
the G. I. P.) from Victoria
sta., for Calcutta, Jhbbul-
pore, Allahabad, Benares,
Cnwnpore, Lucknow, Agra
and Delhi, Indore, Nagpur
and Poona, Madras, and the
south. Express trains to
Calcutta via Jubbulpore
take 46 hrs., those via Nag-
pur take 48 hrs.
(2) The Bombay, Baroda,
arid Central liidia lUy.,
for Ahmedabad, Kattywar,
Rutlam, Chitor (for Oodey-
pore), Ajmere, Jeypore,
Agra, Delhi, Lahore, and the
north. Travellers stopping
in or near the Fort, may
start from Church Gat€ St.
sta. or ftrom Colaba. Those
at Malabar Hill or BycuUa,
from Grant Road sta.
Steamship Agencies :
Peninsular db Oriental S.S.
Co., 8 Rampart Row.
Steamers every week to
Aden, Ismailia, Port Said,
Brindisi, Malta, Gibraltar,
Plymouth, and London ;
and every fortnight to
Venice, Marseilles, Colombo,
Madras, Calcutta, Straits
Settlements, China, Japan,
and Australia.
British India S.N. Co.,
Mackinnon, Mackenzie and
Co., Green St., for Calcutta,
and coast ports, Karachi,
Persian Gulf, Burma, and
E. Coast of Africa.
Hall Line, Edward Bates
and Co., Elpbinstone Circle.
Clan Line, Finlay, Muir
and Co.
Messageries Maritimes, 29
Esplanade Road.
Nav. Gtn. Italiana, Florio,
and Bubattino UnitedCos., F.
C. Barbaro, Sassoon House.
Atistro- Hungarian Lloyd's
S. X. Co., H. von HofTer, 50
Church Gate St.
Wilson Line of Steamers,
Finlay, Muir, and Co., Com-
mercial Road. To Karachi,
Middlesbro' or Hull every
fortnight.
Anchor Line of Steamers,
W. and A. Graham and Co.,
Graham's Buildings ; and
T. Cook and Son.
Stores : Army and Navy,
Apollo Bandar, convenient,
well supplied (branch of the
London establishment).
Theatres: The Gaiety and
the Novelty, near the Victoria
sta. at the S. end of Esplan-
ade Market Road, and the
Native Theatre in Grant Rd.
Tourist Office: Messrs.
T. Cook and Son, opposite
Esplanade H., are also
agents for rly. tickets and
all kinds of infoi-mation in
connection with excursions
and tours (e.g. to Blephanta
and Kanhari). "Cook's
Indian Tours," a pamphlet
(Is.), containing full infor-
mation about tours, price of
tickets, etc., will be found
very useful.
Tramways run from end
to end of Bombay, and ex-
tend ftx)m Colaba and the
Fort to Grant Roadj to Par-
ell, and to the Docks.
Wine Merchants: Phip-
son and Co. ; Treacher and
Co., and Bolton and Co.— aH
in Esplanade Road.
BOR GHAT, 320.
BORIVLI, 22, 23, 104.
BORPANI, D.B., 274.
BOSTAN (R)., 235.
BOWRINGPET, 376
See Kolar Gold Fields.
BOTAD, 153.
BBAHliAPUTRA RIVER,
274.
BREWERY (R.) (see Naini
Tal), 258.
BRITISH FRONTIER (R,X
352.
BROACH, 107.
D.B. in town. Waiting
Room at sta. .
BUDDH GAYA, 49.
BULRAMPUR, 249.
BUNDELKUND PROVINCB,
00.
BURCOOL, 353
BURDWAN (R.), 51.
Kellner's H.
BTTRHANPUR, 34.
D.B. ill city (Barrack
E Square), poor.
UTTALE, R.H., 461.
UXAR (R.), 47.
D.B. near Fort. HoteL
C.
CACHAR, 276.
CALCUTTA, 52.
Hotels: The Grand H.
good, H. Continental, both
in Chowringhee; T?ie Grtat
Eastern H., Spencers H.
moderate, H. de Part* (Bon-
sard^s), Dhurrumtolla.
Boarding - Houses are
numerous, and are often
preferred to hotels, especi-
ally for a lengthened stay
in Calcutta. The approxi-
mate charges are 150 ra.
a month, or 5 rs. a day, for
board and lodghig (wine not
included). In tiwe heip^t of
the season, about Chitet-
mas time, charges some-
times run up to 8 rsw and
10 rs. a day. Meals are
taken together as a nBe,
but in some houses
d by Google
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
469
or single rooms may be en-
gaged, with meals served in
private.
Boarding Houses: Mrs.
WaZUr'8, 6-9 Russell Street,
is recommended; Urs.PelVs,
1 Little Russell Street, 9
Hiddleton Row ; Mrs.
Monk's, 11 Middleton Row,
15 Chowringhee, 13 Theatre
Road ; Mrs. Day's, 1 Theatre
Road, 15 Chowringhee ; Mrs.
Baily, 10 Middleton Row.
Restaurant and Con-
fectioners: PelUi, 10 Es.
planade, E. ; Gt. Eastern H,
Bankers and Agents:
Gillanders, Arbuthnot, and
Co.,CliveSt.
Gri^idlay and Co., . Hast-
ings St.
King, Hamilton and Co.
(Branch of Henry S. King
and Co., 05 Comhill),
undertake all business in
connection with travelling
and financial arrangements
for travellers In India.
T. Cook and Son, 11 Old
€ourt House Street, supply
all kinds of information
about excursions and tours
in India, and provide circu-
lar tickets, etc.
Banks: Bank of Bengal, 3
Strand; Agra B., Mangoe
Lane; Ch. Bk. of India, Aus-
tralia and ChiTui, 5 Council
House St. ; Meiv. Bk. of
India, Limtd., 28 Dalhousie
Sq. ; Delhi and London Bk.,
4 Council House St. ; Hong-
Kong and Shanghai Bkng.
Corpor., Dalhousie Sq. ;
National Bk. of India,
Council House St.
Bath : An excellent
Swimming Bath on the Es-
planade, admission through
members.
Booksellers and Sta-
tioners : Thacker, Spink,
and Co., Government Place ;
the best in India, and ex-
cellent. W. Neimnan and
Co.. Dalhousie Sq.
Chemists : R. Scott Thom-
son and Co., 15 Govern-
ment Place, B. ; Bathgate
and Co., Old Court House
St. ; Smith Stanistreet, Dal-
housie Sq.
Churches: (AyoLiCAyy—
St. Paul's Cathedral: St.
John's Church, formerly the
cathedral ; The Old Church
(C.M.8.);.S<. Peter's, in the
Fort; St. Thomas's (the Free
School Church).
{Ceurcb of Scotland)—
St. Andrew's, Dalhousie Sqr.,
U.F. Church ofScotland,We\-
lesley Sq., Manse, Park 'St.
Nonconformist: Thelfe*.
leyan Church; the Baptist
Chapel, Lai Bazar and Cir-
cular Road; Congregational
Union C/MipKZ,Dhurrumtolla
& Hastings ; A'lnerican Meth.
Episcopal, Dhurrumtolla.
Clubs (Miscellaneous) :
India Club, 67 Bankshall St.
New Club, 46 Park St
Saturday Club, Wood St.
For games and amusements.
Ladies can become members
as well as men.
Golf Club, established 1829.
Links on the Maidan: there
are two courses of 9 holes
each.
Clubs (Residential): Ben-
gal Club, 33 Chowringhee
Road, S. side of Esplanade.
The houses, 1 Park St., and
1 and 5 Russell St. , are fitted
as chambers for residents ;
33 Chowringhee Road, con-
tains bedrooms for members.
The Club-housewas formerly
the residence of Mr. T. B.
(afterwards Lord) Macaulay.
Members of this Club are
hon. members of the Madras,
Byculla,' Hong-Kong, and
Shanghai Clubs, & vice versa.
The United Service Club,
81 Chowringhee Road. At-
tached to it are th e houses 1 , 2
and 3 Kyd St. and 56 Park St.
German Club, 40 Free
School St.
Consuls : American, 8
Esplanade Row, E.
Conveyances: Carriages
can be hired at from 5 to 10 rs.
a day. Cabs (commonly
called ticca garis) are plenti-
ful, charges moderate.
Dentists: Afr. Woods,
25 Chowringhee Road; J.
Miller, 85 Chowringhee
Road ; Watson, Wellesley PI.
Drapers: Francis Ramsay
& Co.,Govt. PI. ; Fraii\xAs Har-
rison, Hathaway db Co., Govt,
PI. : Whiteway A Laidlaw,
Chowringhee ; Moore dt Co.,
Esplanade; Phelps A Co.
Old Court House St.
Jewellers, SUversmitlis,
and Wat(dmiakers : Hckmil-
ton ami Co., Old Court
House St. ; Cooke and Kelvey,
Old Court House St. ; Boseck
antd Co., Wellesley PL
Lady Doctors : Miss
BaunUer, 15 Chowringee.
Medioal Men: Dr. A.
Crombie, 47 Park St. ; Dr.
C. H. Joubertf 6 Harriugton
St. ; Dr. Charles, 7 Park
St. ; Dr. R. C. Samlers,
36 Chowringhee Road ; Dr.
Coulter, Dr. A, Caddy, 2^
Harrington St. ; Dr. E. F.
Greenhill, 3 Russell St.
Missions : Oxford Mission,
42 Cornwallis Street. The
clergy hav^ charge of a Boys'
High School, an Industrial
School for Natives, and St.
James's School for Eurasians
—all in the town; and of
village schools in the Simder-
ban, 3 m. ott". The Superior
is Principal of Bishop's
College, Circular Roatl.
S.P.G. 224 Lower Civcu-
lar Road.
Tlie Clewer Sisters, work-
ing since 1881, nurae the
General Hospital, Medical
Stafl" Hospital, and Eden
Hospital ; and have charge
of the Canning Home for
Nurses, European Girls'
Orphanage, and Pratt Me-
morial School. In 1890 they
took over from the Ladies'
Assocn. {S.P.G.) their work
in the rice-fields.
C.M.S., 10 Mission Row,
Divinity School ; Old
Church ; Trinity Church ;
and Christ Church, Boys'
and Girls' Schools.
Church of Scotland, Corn-
wallis Square.
U.F. Church of Scotland, 2
Cornwallis Square.
Baptist Mission Society, 42
Lower Circular Road.
Native Booksellers: S.
K. Lahiri o/nd Co., 54 Col-
lege Street ; Shambhu Chwn-
drrt -4 ddy, Wellington Street.
Newspapers: TheEnglish-
man, 9Hai'e St., the leading
paper in Bengal ; Indian
Dy. News, 19 British Indian
St. ; Statesman, 8 Clio wring
bee Road ; The Asian and
The Itidian Planters' Gaz.,
both devoted to sport and
planting interests. The lead-
ing Native papers in Eng-
lish are — The Hindu Patriot,
Indian Mirror, A mrita Bazar
Patrika.
Opticians: Latorenceand
Mayo ; Solomoyis and Co. ; N.
Lazarus.
Outfitters : Gt. Eastern
Hotel Co.; Ramsay, Walcefield
and Co. ; If hiteway, I/xidlaw
and Co. , 7 Esplanade, East.
FliOtOgrapherS : Johnston
and Hojfmann, 22 Chowring-
hee Rd. ; Bourne and Shep-
lierd, 8 Chowringhee Road.
Photographio Appara-
tus: W. Newman and Co.
d by Google
470
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
Dalhonsie Sq., John Bteet^ 2
Hare St.
Railways: The E.I.R.
Sta. at Hovrrah, for Bombay
via Jabalpur, Delhi, Agra,
etc. The Eastern Bengal B.
Sta. at Sealdah, for Darjee-
ling, Dacca, and places in
Assam. There are two lines
to Bombay. That by Jabal-
pur takes 46 hrs., and
that by Nagpur 48 hrs.
There is now direct com-
munvcation between Cal-
cutta and Madras by the
East Coast Railway.
Societies : Cha hit a bls
A XD Religio p& —Besides
the above-mentioned Socie-
ties, the following have their
Indian headqnartei"s in Cal-
cutta—T/j 6 Additional Clergy
Socty. ; The Methodist E-pisco-
ynil Missioti; The London
Missionary Socty.; The Wes-
leyan Missions; several
8i)ecial Zenana Missions.
Scientific^ etc. — The
Atiatic Society, Park Street,
founded by Sir William
J ( > 1 1 es ; The Microscopica I
Soc. ; The Photographic Soc.
have rooms in the same
building; Geology^ Ethnologji,
Mineralogy, Natural His-
tory, Archaeology , are well
represented in the Indian
Museum in Chowringhee Rd.
Steamship Agencies
(General) :
P. & 0. S. N. Co., Supt.,
B. Trelawny, 19 Strand.
Steamers every fortnight
for Colombo, Aden, Ismaiua,
Port Said. Marseilles, Ply-
mouth, and I^ndon ; also for
Bombay, China, JaiMin, Aus-
tralia, etc. Special attention
is calletl to the second saloon
accommodation of this Com-
pany's steamers, and the im-
proved arrangements for the
comfort of passengers by
that class.
British India S. N. Co.,
Mackinnon, Mackenzie and
Co., 16 Strand, for London,
Colombo, coast ports, Kar-
aclii, Persian GiUf, Burma.
Straits Settlements, and
Australia via Torres Straits.
City Line o/S.S., Gladstone,
Wyllie and Co., Clive St.
Clan Line Steamers, Finlay,
Muir and Co., Clive Street,
2d class accommodation
specially good.
Messageries Maritimes, 19
Strand.
Aiistro- Hungarian Lloyd's
S. N. Co., D. Sauoon and Co.,
Clive St.
Anchor Line, Gnihatn and
Co., 9 Clive St.
Steamsliip Affenoies (Local) :
Rivers, ^av. Co., MacneUl
and Co.
Orissa Carrying Company's
Steamers, Macneill and Co.,
g lying between Calcutta and
ihandbally.
Asiatic S. N. Co., Turner,
Morrison and Co., 6 Lyon's
Range, excellent, accommo-
dation for 1st class, 2d class,
and deck (natives) passen-
gers.
Anglo - iTuiian Carrying
Co., Baltner, Lavrrie and Co.
(proprietors), packages, bag-
gage, etc., to or from Eng-
land.
Tailors : Ranken and Co. ;
Ramsay, Wakefield and Co. ;
Harry Clark ; W. H. Phelps
and Go. ; Harmnn and Co. ;
Radham Bros., all in Old
Court House St.
Theatres: Tiie Corinth-
ian, ■ DhnrrumtoUa ; The
Royal, Chowringhee : Road ;
The Opera House, Lindsay
St. Native Theatres are
chiefly in Beadon'St.
CALICUT, 367.
Hotel: Mr. P. Canaren's
H., on the Beach. Good
D.B.
Steamship Agents :
B.LS.N. Co.
GAMBAY, 110.
CAMPOLI, 319.
OANNANORE, 366.
D.B. good.
CASHMERE, 208, 211, 215.
(See Srinagar).
CASTLE ROCK (R.), 301.
CAUVERY FALLS, 379.
Dak Bullocks on previous
notice to Dep. Commis-
sioner of Bangalore District.
OAWNPORB, 260 (R, good).
Hotels: Civil and Mili-
tary, good : the best ; Em-
press H., Victoria //., KeU-
ner's Refreshnwiit Rooms.
Olnh: Cawujpore C, Mall.
Missions : the S.P.G.
(Mission House, Christ
Church) have charge of
Clirist Church School,
Genei-alganj School, and a
Girls' Boarding School.
The Lailies' Association
(S.P.G.), have 6 schools and
work in the zenanas.
CHADIYANTALAWA, 462.
CHAGOTI, D.B., 217
CHAIBASA, 78.
CHAKARDARPUR, 78.
CHAKRATA, D.B., 257.
CHALISGAON, 71.
CHAMAN, 236.
CHAMBA, D3., 199.
CHAMPA, 77.
CHAMPANIR, 109, 110.
CHAMUNDI HILL, 386.
GHANDA, D.B., line to
Warangal in progress, 74.
CHANDAUSI (R.), 289,
OHANDERNAGORE, 51, 65.
Two Hotels in Fort.
CHANDIL, 78.
CHANDNI, 34.
CHANDOD, 109.
CHANDPUR, 277
CHANDRAGIRI, 335, 362.
CHANGAS SERAI, D.B., 220.
CHANROYAPATNA, 362.
CHAPPA RIFT, 236.
CHATACK, D.B., 277.
CHATRAPUR, 353.
CHATTISGARH, 77,
CHAVAKACHCHERI, B.H.
good, 458.
CHAYA, 164.
CHENKALEDI, R.H., 448.
CHEPAL, 257.
CHERAT, D.B., 213.
OHERBA-PUNJI, 277.
D.B. coiaiuodions, with
servants.
Pony Tonga Service (each
seat, 80 rs.) to Shillong ; 48
hrs. notice to manager at
Shillong.
CHICACOLE, 353
CHIDAMBARAM, 896.
D.B. 1^ m. from rly. sta.
CHILAW, R.H. good, 454.
CHILIANWALA, 209.
CHILKA LAKE, 363
CHINCHWAD, 324.
CHINDWIN, 489.
CHINGLEPUT (R.) D.B.good,
392.
CHINSURAH, 64.
OHITOR, 82.
D.B. 1 m. i^om rly. sta.,
belonging to Oodeypore
Raja, good.
For ah order to see the
fort, and for the use of an
elephant, a week's notice
should be given to l^e
Resident at Oodeypore,
CHITTAGONG, 277
CHITTAPUR, 346
CHORAL, 80.
CHOTA-NAGPUR, 78.
Missions : Beadquartsrs
of Trvnity College JhOlin
Mim(mi see also p. 78.
d by Google
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
471
•OEK)WtfOOK, 221.
CLIFTON, 233.
OCXJANADA, 852.
GOCHIN, 369.
Hotel : Family H. ; D.B.
fair.
OOIMBATORB, D.B., 887.
OOLOUBO, 441.
. Hotels: Grancl Oriental
B. (usually known as the
O.O.H.), one of the best, if
not the best, in the E.
GqM% Face H., quieter and
in apleas&ntersitoatlon tban
the G.O.H., close to the sea,
a little more than 1 m. from
the landing-place. There is
a swimming bath attached
to the hotel. ^iHstol Hotel,
good.
The Graivd Uotd at Motmt
lavUhia, 2 hrs. distant by
rail from Ck>lombo, is much
frequented by visitors. It
is delightfully situated on
a promontory overlooking
the sea. fl. Bristol.
Churches: {Cathedral)
— S. Thomas, Matwal ; S.
Peter\ The Fort; Chtist
Church, (C.M.S.); Trinity
Churchf Maranda ; S.
Mickad's, Polworih : and
others.
(JJ. a Cathedral)— St.
Lucia, and many otliers.
{Church of Scotland)—
Si. Andrew's^ The Fort.
{Nonconformist) — Was-
leyan, Pettah ; Baptist,
Cinnamon Gardens. Dutch
Churcht Wolfendahl, and
othelrs. •
Clubs : tlie Colombo C. on
the Galle Face.
Golf C. with Tmks on the
Galle Face.
Docd»>rs: /. B. Spence: A.
D. Murray; J. Rookioood.
l^^Ush Merchants,
B6ok86Q,ers, iStaldoners,
©t<J. : M. W. Cave arid Co.
(also agents for Henry S.
king and Co., London).
General Outfitters : Car-
gill.
Ivories, XortoisesbeU
Jewellery, Moon -stones^
etc. : D. F. de Silva, Chat-
ham St.
Missions : S.P.G., St.
Thomas's College ; C.M.S.,
Galle Face ; Cbvist Ohuroh ;
..§*, Luke's and several
schools.
E. Grimtead Sisters (Mis-
sion House t^ Pol watte),
Sive ^^fifi of schools and
i^nana^e, and undertake
Private Nursins^in any part
of the island.
Steamship Agencies :
P. & 0. S. N. Co., office
opposite the G.O.H. Agent,
F.Bayley. Fortnightly mail
service to and from London,
the Continent, and Sydney,
stopping at all the chief
ports; fortnightly service
also to Bombay, Calcutta,
Straits Settlements, China,
and Japan.
Orient Line. Agent, Whit-
tall and Co. Fortnightly
mail service to and from
London and Sydney, stop-
ping at all chief ports.
British India S. N. Co.
Agents, Alston, Scott, and
Co. Fortnightly service to
and from London ; weekly to
Calcutta, Bombay, and
Madras.
ClanlAihe. i^grente, Aitken,
Spence, and Co.
Anchor Line. Agents, Del-
mege, Reid, and Co.
COMILLA, 277
COMPANYGANJ, 277.
CONJEVERAM, 392.
No D.B. here, but good
waiting room at sta. Con-
jeveram can be visited firom
Cbinglepnt or Arkonam.
OOONOOR (R.), 388.
Hotels: DavidsorCs H.,
Gray's H., HUl Grove H. (all
good).
For tongas see Mettu-
palaiyam.
COORLA, 27.
CORANADU, 397.
OUDDALORE, D.B., 395.
Steamship Agents :
B.LS.N. Co., Parry and Co.
CUDDAPAH (R.), D.B., 334.
CUMBUM (R.), 358.
OUTTAOK, D.B., 289, 363
Club : within the Fort
enclosure.
D.
DABHBJI, 231.
DABHOI, 108.
DABO, 230.
DABOK, 84.
DAOGA, 275.
D.B. near Church.
Olub : Dacca C.
DAKOR, 110.
DALHOUSIE, 199.
Hotels: Strawberry Bank
H. (best). Old Dalhousie H.,
Baits Head H.
Between Pathankot and
Dalhousie it is most con-
venient to sleep at the D.B.
Doneira.
DAL LAKE, 218.
DAMAN ROAD, 105.
D.B. beyond town, at
mouth of river, good.
DAMBADENIYA, 444.
DAMBEGULLA, R.H., 461.
DAMBOOL, R.H. excellent.
virtually an hotel, 455.
DAM DIM, 270
DAMODAR RIVER, 53.
DAMOOKDEA, 270.
DARJEELING, 271.
Hotels : Boscolo's Grand
H. and Woodlands H., both
good, with fine views ;
RockviUe H. (Mrs. Monk)
open all) the year, good ;
Grand H. Drum Druid, the
Mall ; Darjeeling H.
Boarding Houses: Ada
Villa, Rose Bank, Gresham
House.
Club : Darjeeling C. , Auck-
land Road.
DATAR PEAK, 160.
DATD^, 102.
DAULATABAD, 68.
Station for Ellora; see
Ellora in index.
DEBARI, for Oodeypur, 84.
DEDUR, R.H., 221.
DEDURA OYA, 454.
DEESA, D.B., 119.
DEHRA DUN or DOON, p.B.,
256.
Hotel: Victoria H.
Club : Dehra Doon C.
Rly. in contemplation
.from Hard war.
DELHI. 132.
Kellner's Refreshvient and
Sleeping Rooms in the rly.
sta.; chota-hazri seived in
bedrooms; other meals in
the refreshment room
below ; good cuisine (write
beforehand.)
Hotels: MetropoliUm H.
(Maiden Bros., managers),
near St. James' Church, the
best ; Grand H., close to the
rly. sta. (Mrs. Culverhouse),
well spoken of; Laurie's //.,
outside the city"; Ludlow
Castle H., near tlM Ridge.
Dealer in Indian Qnrios :
S. J. TelUry, riot far from
the Cashmere Gate.
Merchants : Shawls, Em-
broideries in gold and silver i
Motee Rap., Chandni Clu^lk,
near Museum.
d by Google
472
INDEX AND WBECTORY
DEOaAON, D.B., 65.
A good place to break the
loug drive from Nandgaon
to Roza for the Ellora caves.
The tonga service is not
good.
DBOLALI, 28.
DERA GHAZI KHAN, 224.
DERA ISMAIL KHAK, D.B.,
213, 222r
DBWAL, D.B., good, 217.
DHANASI, 238,
DEAR, 80.
DHARAMSALA, D.B., 290.
DHARMPUR, IJK).
D.B. good.
DHARWAR (R.), D.B., 317.
DHOLA (R.), 153.
DHOLPUR (R.), 92.
DHOND (R.), D.B., 830.
DHONE, D.B., 858.
Starting point for Kur-
nool, 33 m. distant. Carts,
bullocks, and pony transits
procurable.
DHORAJI, 164.
DHUBRI, D.B., 274.
Hotel: DhuhriH.
DIAMOND HARBOUR, 5&.
DIBRUGARH.D.B., 274.
Club : Dibrugarh C.
DICKOTA, 446.
DIGorDEEG, 185.
The Gopal Bhawan P&lace
is put at the disposal of
strangers (permission must
■ be asked). In it a paper of
rules is hung up for their
benefit.
DIKSAL, 330.
DIKWELLA, R.H. good, 451,
453.
DILWARRA TEMI^ES, 120.
DIMBX7LA, 446.
DINAPUR, D.B., 48.
Kellner^ Refrethmeiit
and Retiring Rooms.
DINDIGAL (R.), 404.
DIRGI, 235.
DOM, 293.
DOMEL, D.B., good, 217.
DONDRA; 452.
DONEIRA, D.B„ fqr Dal-
housie, q^., i9§.. 1 1
DONGAR GAN, D.B., 880.
DONOARaARH (R.), 76.
DORNA KAL, 352
DRAS, 219.
DUBCHI. 220.
DUDH SAUGAR, 301.
DULAl, D.B., good, 217.
DUM DUM. D.B., 62.
DUMMOW, 89.
DUMPEP, D.B., 277.
DWARKA, 164.
. B.
EASTERN NARA CANAL,
225.
BISHMAKAM, 219
EKIRIYANKUMBARA, 448.
BKNELIGODA, 449.
ELAHBRA, 455.
ELEPHANT PASS, R.H. in
Old Dutch Fort, 458.
ELEPHANTA CAVES, 18.
ELLORA CAVES, 71.
The caves are now most
easily reached from Daulata
bad sta. (Trains from Mun
mar junc. twice daily.'
Write beforehand to NaS'
seruangi, Aurangabad Fort,
asking him to send a tonga
(15 rs.) to meet ti-ain.
Daulatabad sta. (no Re
freshment Room) is 10 m
from BUora. A tomb at
Rosa (2 m. from the caves,
p. 69) has been converted
into a D.B. A week's notice
to Mess Secretary at Auran
gabad required for permis
sion to occupy it.
ELLORB (R.), 362
BLPHINSTONE POINT, 814.
ENGLISH BAZAR, starting-
place for Gaur, 267.
Aocommodation : The
magistrate's permission
should be obtained before-
hand to occupy the Maldah
Circuit-house, which is a
comfortable building, being
fumislied and provided with
bedding, linen, crockery,
cooking-utensils, and all re-
auisites, in charge of a resi-
ent servant. At least one
servant who could cook and
take charge of baggage
should be sent on before
with the coolies or covered
cart containing the baggage.
Horses and carriages cannot
be hired. The traveller
must bring his pi"ovt«rtons
with him.
BRAOOR, R.H., 448.
ERODE June, (for Trioliino-
poly), (R.), 38r.
Excellent sleeping accom-
modation at the rly. sta,.
ETAMPITIYA, R.H. Otm-
fortable, 447.
ETAWAH (R.), 260.
D.B. i m. firom rly. sta.
EVEREST, MOUNT, 271.
F.
FALSE POINT, 277, 290.
Steamship Agents'.
B.I.S.N. Co., C. M. Binny.
FARDAPUR, D.B., in a rain-
ous condition, 31.
PATBHABAD (R-X 81-
FATEHPUR-SIKRI, 177.
D.B. in the old Reocod
Office (see plan).
PAZILKA, 166.
FEGU, D.B., 257.
FENCHUGANJ, 276.
FBROZEPUR (B.), 166, 196.
D.B. neai* Dep. Gomais-
sioner's Cutcherry.
FEROZBSHAH, 166, 196.
PORT ST. DAVID, 396.
FRENCH ROCKS, 380.
FULLERS CAMP, 235.
FULTA, 53.
FUTTEHPORB, D.B., 256.
FYZABAD (R.), 248.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
Graham's H.
Ajodhyay the Jerusalem of
Hinduism, is 4 m. distant
O.
GADAG (R.), 815, 853.
D.B. i m. from rly. sta.
GADARWARA, R.H.> 85.
GADR ARRAN, 215.
GAGANGAIR, 219
GALGB, 462.
GALLE, 452.
Hotel : Pei^itisidar i
Oriental if., fairly comfort-
Hble.
SteamsUp A^^SI^g^:
Clan Liney Clark, Speiice ^
Co. ; British India S.^T. Co.,
and Anchw Line, Belme^
Reid and Co,
GALTA, 128.
GAMB&R, ^1. V.
GANETBRBi^, 210. -
GAMPOLA, 445.
HoteL
ganjam, 353 ■ ;
GARHI, D.B^ good, 117,
GARHI HABIBULIiA, D.I.,
221.
GARPOS, 77.
GAUBLATL 0.B„ 274;
Daily Pony Tott^ 9erf|ee
d by Google
miyiSX AND DIRECTORY
473
, at 6 A.M. or not later than 9
A.M., to Shillong. Rates for
each seat 25 rs., 15 seers
of luggage free. Ordinary
bullock train service to
1 Shillong, daUy. Write
to Manx^^er, Gauluiti and
Shillong Transit Serrice,
C^auhati.
G-AUR, 267.
(See English Bazar.)
GAYA, D.B., 49,
GERSOPPA, D,B., 26, 364.
GHARO, 232.
GHAZIABAD, 193, 257.
Waiting and Refresh-
ment Rooms at rly. sta.
with sleeping accommoda-
tion.
GHAZl GHAT, 222, 224.
GIDU BANDAR, 228.
GILOIT, 220.
GILIMALE, 449.
Good accommodation and
water.
GINCH FORT, 393.
GIR, 156.
GIRIDIH,-60.
GIRITELLA LAKE, 459.
GIRNAR, 157.
OCA, 302.
Hotels: Gomes' H., Crescent
H.
Steamship Agents :
B.I. S.N'. Co., L. S. Ribeiro.
GOALPARA, D.R, 274.
GOALUNDO GHAT, 2^5.
Steamers (comfortable),
daily mail service to Naraln*
GODAVBRY, 352
GODHRA, 110.
GOGA GATE, 108.
GOKAK ROAD (Ri), 299^ '
GOKUL, 184.
GOLAGHAT, 274.
GOLlCONDA, 849.
GOOKD, 219.
GOONDA, 249.
GONDAIi, 164. ..
There are a good Guest
House and D.B., jboth. ooni-
fortaWy lorBished^
GOPALPUR, 368
GOOTY (R.), 894.
G0RE6A0N, 25.
Sta. for Jogeshwar Oavfea.
OOVAR0«AN, m .:
GUJRANWALA (EL), D.B.,
207.
D.B. close to sta., poor.
No Gabs to be had.
OUJRAT, b.B., 209.
GULISTAN, 236.
GULMABG, 219.
Hotel : Neddu's is the only
H., fair. Visitors, as a rule,
take up their quarters in
wooden huts profcurable at
a small renfc from the State,
or in tents;
GUMLIH, 164.
GUNTAKAL (R.X 334.
GUNTUR, 858.
GUZE.RAT, Province of, 109.
Do. Capital Of (Alnned-
abad). 111.
GWAUOR (R.), 92.
D.B. very poor, at rly. sta.
The Musafir ELhana, l m.
from the rly. sta. is a hand-
some, well-furnished house
built for the friends of the
Maharajah, and persons of
distinction recommended by
the Resident. It is neces-
sary for such persona to
write beforehand to the
"Officer in charge" to
obtain permission to occupy
rooms there, and also to in-
suie accommodation, as it is
frequently full.
Gaol Carpets, etc. made
to order, reasonable price,
good work.
H.
HABARANB, R.H., 459.
HAKGALLA, 447.
HALDAMULLA, 450.
R.H. iudifferent, but good
club, to which access is easy.
HAMBANTOTTA, B.H., 453.
HAMltfONCONDAH, 852.
HAMPI (Vijayanagar), 363.
(The Rly. fcjta* for OH^mpi
is Hospet.) . . '
D.B. at Kanialapur. Tli^
fee for its use is 1 r. per
diem (1 r. "8 for a married
couple), and the visitor must
iriake his own arrangements
about food. Mosquito cur-
tains should be brought.
There is a Peon in charge of
the i-ooms, wJio will act as
guide for a small fee.
HANSI, D.B., 165.
HANWBLLA, R.H. good, 44^
HAPUTALE, P.H., 446, 450.
HARAPA, 222.
HARDA, 34.
• D.B. 8 minutes' walk from
rly. sta., good.
HARDOI (R.), 289.
■ D.B. close to sta.
HARDWAR, 238, 254.
Rly. in contemplation to
Dehra Doon.
HARIHAR (R.), 360.
HARIPUR, D.B., 123, 221.
HARNAI, D.B., 235.
Bullock Dhumnior Tonga
available.
HARWAN, 217.
HASAN ABDAL, D.B., 212.
HATHRAS (R.), D.B., 259.
HATTI, 217
HATTON, 446.
Adam's Peak Hotel.
HENARATGODA, 443.
HBNZADA, 488.
HERAMITIPANA, 450.
Lodgings to be had at
large Pilgrim Bungalow.
HIKKADUWA, R.H, 452.
HINGANGHAT, D.B., 74.
HINGOLI, 74.
HIRPUR, RwH, 220.
mSSAR (R.), D.B., 166.
HONAWAR, 364.
HOOOHLY, 61, 63. .
Hotel : Chirmurdk B.
HOOKEYTOLLAH, D.B. , 277
HORANA, R.H., 461.
HOROWAPOTANE, R.H.,
455.
HORTON PLAtNS, 446, 450.
HOSHANGABAD, D.B., 86.
HOSPET (R,), D.B., 363.
Rly. Sta. for flampi.
HOTGI (R.), 804, 882.
HOWRAH (See also OaUmtta),
63. _ .
HUB RIYER^ 226. Murtid
Kha^9 B%mgalo%»^ 11 niiles
past ICagar Pir (provisioi)s
must be taken).
HUB LI (R.), 817, 860.
HULI, 80L
HULIKAL FORT, 889
HULLABID, 36U
HUMMA,858.
Digitized
by Google
474
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
HTDERABAD (Cashmere),
D.B., 22L
HTDERABAD (Deccan), (R.),
345.
Hotel: Cosmopolitan H.
(1896). See SecuiwUmihad.
Bank of Bengal.
HTDERABAD (Sind), 228.
D.B. good in Cantonment
close to the Tennis Court
and Svyimming BtUk.
MlBSloliB : C.M.S., Church
and Schools.
1,
IGATPUBI(B.), 28.
D.B. it m. ft>om sta.
Church (Anglican).
Railway Ixutttute.
INDORB, D.B., 80.
INDRA-BETTA HILL, 362.
IRAMPAIKKULUM, R.H.,
458.
IRANAMADU, B.H., good.
458.
IRRAKAMAM, 462.
'ISAPUR HILL-FORT, 323.
ISLAMABAD, 219.
ITARSI, 34, 86.
D.B., (R.), and waiting
rooms at rly. sta.
J.
JABALPUR (R.), 35.
Hotel : Jackson's H. good.
This is the staUtm for the
Marble Rocks (p. 35).
JAOOBABAD, 234.
D.B. at Wan Bodhattun,
\ m. from rly. sta.
JABLA, R.H.» 454.
3AinHK {Jaffnapatam)f 469.
JAOANNATlH (see Pun).
JAIPUR (see Jeypore).
JAITPUR, 102-
Dharmsala comfortable.
JAJPUR, 290.
JAKO HILL, 191.
JALAMB, 74.
JALARPBT June, (for Banga-
lore), (R.)r 376*
JALPAIGURI (B.), D.B., 270.
JAMALPORB, 269.
Kellner'8 RetreBhment
and RettriBg Roobis at sta.
JAMGAL, 362.
JAMRX7D, D.B., ^14.
JARAPANl, 256.
JATRAPUR, 273.
JAUNPUR (R.), 260.
D.B. close to Police Lines.
JELAPAHAR, 271.
JBTALSAR (B.), 155, 164.
JEYPORE (R.), 127
Hotel : Rustom Family H.
(best). The proprietor will,
if necessary, make arrange-
ments for elephants for
visitors (if they are to be
obtained), 'or for ton^s,
bullock ekkas, or -poaies,
for tiie excursion to Amber.
Kaiser-i'HiTid H.
Dealer in Silks, Indian
Curiosities, eta ; Zwtster
and Co., good showrooms.
School of Art, also good
display, woric to order.
Scottish Mission.
JHANSI (R-X »0, 102.
Hotels : Nev) Railxoay H. ;
Micttaiui Railway H. D.B.
good. Accommodation also
in Rani of Jhanti's Palaee.
Write beforehand to Dep.
Oomm.
Olnb : Maun Clvb.
JHAR8UGUDA, 77
JHBLUM (R.), 209, 216.
D.B. In cantonment.
JODHPUR, D.B. \2\.
JOGESHWAR GAVE, 25.
JULLUNDBR, 196.
Hotel : Cheltenham H., on
the Mai 1 opposite the church
in Cantonment - suburb.
D.B. 5 minutes' drive from
rly. sta.
JT7MM00, 208, S21.
State D.B.
Travellers fortunate
enough to be recommended
by the Resident may be ac-
commodated at the Resi-
dency.
JX7NAGADE, 155.
Aooommodation and con-
veyances on application to
the Prime Minister of Katty-
war. There is a fine GMiest
House for iiativiBS and
officials of rank. D.B. close
to rly. sta. Two good
Serais outside the Majevdi
and Verawal Gates respec-
tively.
JUNGSHAHI (R.), 230.
Rooms at the rly. sta.
C^m«ls or carrfages for
Tatta should be ordered
beforehand. Communicate
with the station - master.
For visiting Tatta the best
plan for the traveller is to
hire a carriage at Jungshahi
and drivia (5 rs.) 2 hrs. to
Tatta, taking lunch with
him.
JUTOGH, 190 19L i
EADAM, 215.
KADAROLI, 301.
KADI, 119.
BLADUGANNAWA, 444.
KADUWBLLA, R.H., 449.
KAHOOTA, 221.
KATRA, 111.
KAITY, 390.
KALA KB SARAI, D.B., 21S.
KALA OYA, B.H., 455.
KALGHAT, 61.
KALKA, 190.
Hotels : Lovories H.j next
door to P. O. and T. 0.
(open throughout the year),
and Lumley's H. TOBga
Office at P. O. (see SimlaX
Passengers can book to in-
termediate stations betweoi
Kalka and Simla by ordm-
ary conveyances, but the
full fare, 8 rs., wiU be
charged. NotVses to P(U-
sengers by Tonga (see SmLi).
KALPI, D.B., 53, 91.
KALUNGA, 78.
KALUTARA, B.H. exceUent,
451.
BLALWAWEWA, 456.
Travellers will find «c-
commiKlation at the Go^t.
Bungalow on the Bund.
KALYAN, 27.
R. and Waiting Rooms.
Bullock-carts for hire.
KALYAN KOT, 231.
KAMALAPUR, 354.
D.B. See Hampi.
KAACPTI, D.B., 76.
KANAKARAYANKULAM
R.H., 458.
KANBAL, D.B., 219, 220.
KANDY, 444.
Hotels: Grand if., excel-
lent ; Queen's H., fkii-. Flor-
mce Vmas H., smaU, bat
comfortable; obliging land-
lord.
Caub: onS.W. «i<ieofUk<>
Drapers, eta: R. Charier
and Co. ; Cargill and Co. ;
Steen and Co.
Missions: C.M^. stk,
Tffncomalee St. ; Chrirt
Church ; TrinUy Gbnnft*
Colleger and Sckiools.
KANGAN, 219.
KANGRA VALLEY, IW.
EJOVHARI, 23, 27.
KANIPANI, 267.
KANITIVA, R.H. 448
KANKARITA LAiOlf VA
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INDEX AKD DIRICTOKY
475
iANKHAL, 254.
^NTALAI, R.H., 460.
LAPADVANJ, D.B. good,
110.
lARACHI (R.), D.B., close to
arseual, 282.
Hotels : Paul's H. (good)
close to Frere St. sta. The
Devon Villa H. (good).
Band : Native regimen-
tal, plays in Government
Gardens on Wednesday
evenings between 6 and 8 ;
at Gymkhana every Monday
evening.
Banks : Natiotial BanJi of
Iruiia ; Bank of Bovtbbay ;
Agra Bank—BM within easy
walk of the city rly. sta.
Bazaar: Sv.dar Bazaar,
good.
Glub : Sind Club, adjoining
the Frere Hall Compound.
A handsome building con-
taining considerable sleep-
ing accommodation. Mem-
bers can introduce friends
as honorary members for
three days.
Gyvik}iaTiaa.nd Ladies' Club
within live minutes' walk
from Sind Club. It has six
lawn tennis courts, two
covered badminton courts,
ballroom and 1 ibrary . Band
generally plays every Mon-
day evening.
Golfaub.
Mission Sta. : C.M.S.
Steamship Agencies :
P. <fe 0. S. N. Co., M'lver,
M*Kenzie and Co.
Bt-itish India S. N. Co.,
Weekly S.S. meet in-coming
and out -going P. & O.
steamers from Europe at
Bombay, M'lver, M'Kenzie
and Co. Weekly to Persian
Gulf, bi-weekly to Bombay.
Messageries Maritimes.
Monthly to and from Mar-
seilles.
Clan Line, Finlay, Muir
and Co.
HaU Line, Sir Charles
Forbes and Co.
Wilson Line^inlay, Muir,
and Co. To Bombay,
Middlesboro', or Hull every
fortnight.
Andior Line, D. Graham
and Co.
For goods: Hansa Line;
Wilson (Hull) Line,
Forwarding Agents :
Latham and Co. ; Rogers
and Co.
Stores: Army and Navy
(branch of London establish-
raentX Bandar Road.
KARIMGANJ, 277
KARJAT, 319.
EARLI, 320.
The best way to visit the
Caves is to alight at Lon-
auli (G.I.P. Rly.), and drive
to and from Karli.
KARMIGURIAMMAN
KOVIL, 410.
KARUR, 387.
KARWAR, D.B., 363.
KABWI, 103.
KASARA (R.), 28.
KASAULI, 190.
Hotel : Norton's H.
KASIM BAZAR, 266.
KATAS, 209.
KATERAGAM, 462.
KATHA, 430.
KATHGODAM (JR.), 288, 246,
253.
Hotel : Railway H.
Tongas, -ponies, dandies,
bearers, and porters, await
the trains. Tongas should
be secured beforeliand by
letter or telegram to station-
master. Ekkas at moderate
rate are available for native
servants. From Kathgodam
to Naini-Tal Brewery by
tonga daily, fare 3 rs. 8 as.
KATJURI, 288.
KATNI, 36, 77.
KATPADt (B.), 874.
KATTYWAR PROVINOE,152
KAUNIA, D.B., 273.
KBGALLA, R.H. poor, 444.
KEKERAWA, R.H. small
but good, 456.
KBLANI, 448.
KEM, sai.
KERl-GHAT, D.B., 191.
KHADAKWASLA^ LAKE,
329. -^
KHAIBER PASS, 214.
KHAIRABAD (B.), 218.
KHAJURAHU, 103.
KHAMGAON, 74.
KHAN A, 51, 264.
KHANDAOIRI OAVES, 286.
KHANDAHAMA, 219.
KHANDALA, 320.
D.B. on edge of the ravine.
Hotel ; Glendale H. (good).
KHANDWA, 84, 80. ?
R. and Waiting Booms.
Conveyances procurable.
D.B.
KHARAGHODA, 152.
KHELAT, 237.
KHBRALU, 118.
KH ULDABAD. See Roza.
KHUNDILANI, 287.
KHURDA ROAD, 353
KHWAJAH KHIZR
ISLAND, 225.
KHYRNA, 254.
KIAMARI, 233.
KILLA ABDULLA (B.), 236.
KINCHIN JANGA MOUNT,
272.
KINDAT, 439.'
KIRI ELA, 451..
KIRINDE, B.H., 454.
KIBKEE, 324.
KIROALI, 167.
KISHAN, 237.
KITTUR, 318.
KOCHALI, 235.
KODAIKANAL, 404.
KODKANI. Two D.Bs., 364.
KOFWARA, 217.
KOHALA, D.B., good, 217.
KOHAT, D.B., 215.
KOHIMA, 274.
KOIL, 259.
KOJAK PASS, 236.
KOLAGHEL, 371.
D.B. on S. side of road to
harbour.
KOLANGAM, 217.
KOLAR, 388.
KOLAR GOLD FIELDS, 376.
A short branch railway
runs from Bowringpet to
the Gold-fields, where there
is a gootl D.B. in the Mysore
Company's Camp.
KOLHAPUR, 297.
D.B. at 8. end of Can-
tonment.
KOMANI, B.H., 462.
KONABAK, 282.
KONDAPALLI, 352
KORBA, 77.
KOTA, 77.
KOTAGIRI, 888.
Hotel : Spencer's H. (good).
KOTAL DARWAZA, 237.
KOTDWARA, 238
KOTGARH, D.B., 192.
KOT-KAPURA (B), 166.
KOTLI, 221.
KOTRI (B.), 228.
D.B. (provisions must be
taken), not far from Bander
rly. sta.
KOTTA, 443.
KOUMARKELA, 78.
KRISHNA, 388.
KUCHLAK, 236.
KULBABGA, D.B., 832.
KULLU VALLEY, 192.
d by Google
476
IKDEX AND DIRECTORY
KUMBHAKQKAM(&.), D.B.,
397.
KUMBURUWBLLA, E.H.,
448.
KUNHUR, 71.
KUPURTHALLA, 196.
KURIGRAM, 273.
KUBNAL, 189.
D.B. in Civil Station N.W.
of town.
KURNOOL (Madras), 358.
D.B. See Dlione.
KURNOOL ROAD STA., 858.
See Dhone.
KURSEONG (R.X D.B., 271.
Hotel : Clarendon H. (good)
pleasant place for breaking
journey. Some people prefer
this place to Darjeeling.
KURUNEGALA, E.H., 448.
KUTALLAM, 408.
KUTB (Delhi), 147.
Police Rest House in the
tombofAdhaniKlian. Com-
fortable quarters. Applica-
tion must be made before-
hand to the superintendent
of i>olice at Delhi for per-
mission to stop there. D.B.
close to tlie great mosque.
KYANHNYAT, 430.
KYAUKMYAUNG, 430.
KYAUKPYU, 438.
KYAUKSE, 426.
LABANI, 210.
LAHORE (R.), 199.
D.B. 2 m. from rly. sta.
Hotels: NedcnCs H., Char-
ing Cross U.y these two are
the best.
Boarding Houses: Hil-
tier's, Caversham.
Olub in Civil Lines, Pa^yaft
Club.
Missions : C.M.S. St.
John's Divinity School ;
Zenana Mission, and Trinity
Church. American Presby-
Urian: Porraan College and
Church.
LAHUGALAWBWA, 462.
LAKI (R.), 227.
No D.B. but good rooms
at the rly. sta.
LAKKUNDI, 316.
LAKWAR, D.B., 257.
LALA MUSA (R.), 209, 224.
LALITPUR, D.B., 89.
LALPOOR, 217.
LANDOUR, 257.
Hotel: Oriental U.
LAN8DOWNE, 238
LARKANA, D.B., 226.
LASALGAON, 31.
LA8CAPANA, 446.
LASHKAR, 96.
LASSENDRA, 110.
LEH, 219, 220.
LEMASTOTTA, 450.
LENA CAVES, 29.
LHAK8AR, 238, 254.
LIBONG, 272.
LIMBDI, 153.
LIMKHEDA, 110.
LINGAMPALLI, 345.
LODWICK POLNT, 294.
LOGARH HILL-FORT, 323.
LOLAB VALLEY, 218.
LONAULI (R.), 320.
Gymkhana Hotel i m.
from rly. sta.
Starting-place for drive to
the Caves at Karli.
LONDA (R.), 301.
LORALAI, 235.
LUCKEESERAI, 50, 270.
LUOKNOW (R.), 239.
Hotels : Hill's Imperial H. ,
Abbott Road; Civil and
Military H.; Royal H.;
Wutzler's H. ; Prince of
Wales's H.
Clubs : United Service, in
tlie Chatr Manzil. Palace;
Mohammed Bagh C, Canton-
ments.
Missions : C.M.S. sta. (at
Zahur Bakhsh), Church of
Epiphany and Schools ;
Methodist Episcopal, of U.S.A .
The Museum (Ajaib Ghar)
is closed at 3.30 and ou
Fridays.
Rly. Line to Jaunpur in
progress.
LUDHIANA, 196.
D.B. at rly. sta.
LUNDI KOTAL, 214.
LUNI, 121.
LUNUGALA, R.H., 448.
M.
MADDAWACHCHIYA, R.H.,
458.
MADDUR (R.), 378.
Visitors to Cauvery Falls
can alight at the Sonanhalli
Platfonn, on previous notice
to station-master there,
MADHAVAPUR, 164.
MADHUBAND, 50.
MADHUPUR (B.), D.B., 50.
MADRAS, 336.
Hotels : H. Conneauurx,
best ; BtLckingham H., both.
in good positions close to
Mount Road ; Capper Hms€
if., on the Beach, about 4»i.
S. of the pier, and 3 m. freui
rly. sta. ; Denfs Gardens R. ,
ElphinstoneH., 7Jtrming*«n
H., Salisimry fl., Victorvi
H., and Branch Elphinstvte
H. , all in central position, m
or near Mount Road, notfr
from the Madras Club, ani
about 2 m. from the pier,
and 1 m. from rly. sta.
There are also several
hotels in Black TowNntss
the harbour, but tiiey are
not recommended.
Agents: Arb-nthn(A and
Co. (agents for Henry S. King
and Co., 65 ComhillX and
Binny and Co. (agents for
Grindlay and Co., Parlia-
ment St.), both undertakeall
business in connection with
travelling, banking, and
financial arrangements for
travellers in India.
Banks: Bank of Mains,
Pophaui's Broadway ; Agr<i
Bank, Esplanade ; Chat-
tered Mercantile Baf^ of
India J Londojit and C*iV%
First Line, Beach ; Cot.
TTierciaZ Batik of Indi>^
Ltd., Armenian St.; S'l-
tioyuU Bank of India, Ud.,
Armenian St.
Booksellers : Addison and
Co., Higginbotham and Co.,
Vest and Co., all three in
Mount Road ; Kalyanaram
Iyer, Black Town.
Chemists : W. K SwM
and Co., Mount Road and
Esplanade ; and Madvrt
and Co., Mount Road.
Churclies, see pp. 34043.
Clubs: The Madras C
Central situation at 1 )»•
from the rly. sta. on Mount
Road. A considerable num-
ber of residential chambers.
The Madras Cosmctpolitan
Club also on Mount Road.
It is a mixed club of Euro-
peans and native gentlemen.
The Adyar Club admits
ladies as well as gentlemei :
it is 3 m. S. of Madras Club,
and in its grounds the ifa
drai Boat Club has its skeds.
Restaurant and OobIk-
tioner: UAngelis, Mount
Road. (Excellent coo^dsg-)
Oonveyaiioet : The ^
tanccs in Madras are twy
d by Google
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
477
•considerable. It is neces-
sary for travellers who wish
to see the sights in a short
time to engage a carriage.
Hire, a day, 1 horse, 3 rs.,
2 horses, 7 rs. There is no
scale of fares for distance; no
fare less than that for i day.
The principal livery stable
keepers are the Madras
Stable Co., who hire out
broughams with 1 hqrse for
3 rs. a day, which is raised
in the season to 4 rs. and
sometimes 5 rs. The hack
caiTiages to be hired in the
streets are cheaper, but are
generally badly horsed and
far from clean.
Dentists: E. W. Bad-
cocky Egmore; M. Bischoff,
Royapettah; S. W. Clarke,
Spur Tank, Bginore ; E.
Egbert, Mount Road.
Jewellers : F. Orr and
Sotis, Mount Road : Framjei
Pestonjee Bhumgara, Mount
Road ; Banganadha Tawker,
Mount Road.
Medioal Men : Dr. Stur-
mer. Pantheon Road; Dr.
Crawfiyrd, Nungumbankum ;
Dr. Pope, Eye Hospital ; Dr.
Browne and Dr. Maitland,
General Hospl.
Missions : The S.P.G.
(Mission House in Rundall's
Rd., Vepery), serve the fol-
lowing churches : — St.
Thome, St Paul's, Vepery,
and St. John's, Egmore,
and have charge of a Theo-
logical College in Sullivan's
Gardens ; also of schools
and orphanages. C.^.iS.sta.
(at Egmore), Holy Trinity
Church; Divinity School,
and Harris High School.
There are also olsher Mis-
sions : U.F. Church of Scot-
land, Lutheran, Wesleyan,
and Methodist-Episcopal.
Newspapers: Dly. Papers,
The Madras Mail, The Ma-
dras Times, The Hindu,
The Madras Standard.
Opttdans: P. Orr and
Sons, and Lawrence <t Mayo,
both in Mount Road.
Photographers : Nicho-
las and Co., Del Tufo, and
Wiele and Klein, all in
Monnt Road.
Railway: There is now
direct railway communica-
tion between Madras and
Calcntta.
Steamship Agencies :
P. & 0. S.N. Co..—Arhuth'
not and Co. Steamers dur-
ing passenger season every
fortnight to Calcutta and to
Colombo, Aden, Ismailia,
Port Said, Marseilles, Gib-
raltar, Plymouth, and Lon-
don, etc.
When steamers are not
callingat Madras, passengers
are conveyed by rail via
Bombay weekly to and from
Europe, the (jompany pro-
viding railway ticket across
India free of charge.
Messageries Maritimes, —
M. MUlet.
Clan Line, — Gordon, Wood-
roffe and Co.
Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's
S.N. Co., and British Iiuiia
S.N. Co.
A nchor Line, — Best and Co.
Tailors and Habit-
makers : Smith and Andre,
Moses and Co. , Odkes and Co. ,
all in Mount Road.
Wine Merchants : Spencer
and Co., Mount Road and
Esplanade; OaJces and Co.,
Mount Road, and Fophain's,
Broadway.
MADURA, (R.), 405.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
Excellent sleeping accom-
modation at the rly. sta.
MAGALHAT, 273.
MAQAR PIR, 233.
MAGWE, 434.
MAHA OYA, R.H., 448.
MAHABALESHWAR, 292,
293.
Hotels : Fountain H.,
good, fine view. MaJiabal-
eshwar H., Ripon H.
Olub with bedrooms at-
tached.
Mail Contractor, Ard-
eshir Framjee, Civil Lines^
Poona.
MAHABALIPUR, D.B., 408.
MAHABAN, 184.
MAHAKUT, 315.
MAHARA, 442.
MAHASU, 192. i
MAHE, 867. i
MAHIM, 104. I
Scottish Orphanage,
established 1859, the only
institution of its kind in the
Bombay Presidency.
MAHMUD KOT (R.), 224.
MAHOBA, D.B., 10 i.
MAHULI, 206.
MAILARGAR, 817.
MAINDROIT, 257.
MAKKALLI HILLS, 231.
D.B. (necessary to bring
food) 1^ m. from Tatta ; the
building was originally a
mosque.
MALCOLM PETH, 293.
MALDAH, 267.
MALVALLI, D.B. good, 878
MALWA TAL, 254.
MALWALA, 449.
MANASBAL LAKE, 218.
MANAULI, 301.
MANCHHAR LAKE, 227.
Any one making a shoot'
ing expedition on this lake
will do well to engage
rooms at the rly. sta.,
which are best for a night
or two, as the D.B. at
Sehwan is 1^ m. from the
rly. sta. He should also
provide himself with a cook.
A telegram to the station-
master a day or two before-
hand A\ill generally ensure
a shikari and camels being
in readiness
MANDALAY, 426.
Hotels: Europe and Ori-
ental.
Clubs : The Upper Burma
Club occupies certain of the
palace buildings, and has
sleeping accommodation.
The Civil Club, in the neigh-
bourhood of the public
otfices, has no sleeping ac-
commodation, and is mainly
an afternoon resort for
tennis, etc. Ladies are ad-
mitted to both clubs.
Bankers: National Bank
of India.
Chemists : Burma Medi-
cal Hall, Mandalay Medical
Hall.
Convesrances : Ticca
gharries (or cabs) of an in-
ferior description can be
hired at fixed rates by time
or distance.
Curios, etc.: SignorBeato.
(General Stores : E. Solo-
mon and Co., Roioe and Co.,
Moses and Friends.
Hairdressers : Watson
ayid Son.
Medical Men : The Civil
Surgeon (at present Dr.
Dantra), Dr. Pedley.
Newspapers: The Manda-
lay Herald and The Mandalay
Times.
Photographers : Signor
Beato and Johannes and Co.
MANDASOR. 82.
MANDOR, 122.
MANDU, 80.
MANDVI, 165.
MANGALOBE, 365.
Steamship Agency:
British India S. N. Coy.
Bank : Bank of Madras
d by Google
478
INDEX AND DIREOTORT
MANGI, D.B., 235.
Sta. for Ziarat, 22 m. dis-
tant, 8000 ft. above the sea.
MANIKPUR (EL), 36, 104.
MANIKYALA, 210.
MANIPUR, 274, 276.
MANIYACHI, 407.
MANNAAR, 458.
MANSERAH, D.B., 221.
MARAVILA, R.H. good, 454.
BIARBLE ROGKS,2 D.Bs. , 35.
MARDAN, 213.
MARGALA, 212.
M ARM AGO A, 801, 363.
MARTABAN, 435.
MARTAND, 219.
MARWAR, 121.
MASKBLIYA. 446.
MATALE, 455.
E.H. good, practically an
Hotel.
MATAR A, R.H. very comfort-
able, 452. Hotel.
MATHERAN, 318.
Much frequented from Sat',
till Mon. in the season.
Hotels : Gramnlle H.
l>est, Pinto's /f., Rugby H.,
fhoivk H.
MAU, 102.
D.B. i m. from rly. sta.
MAYAPUR, 254.
MAYAVBRAM, 897.
MEDDEGAMA, R.H., 461.
MBBAN MEER, 199, 206, 221.
MEERUT, D.B., 193.
Hotels : The Empress H.
best ; fjytton H,, Meerut JL,
Gee's H., Courttiev's H.
Club : Whelff C. (Whelee).
Mission sta. of C.M.S.
MEHMADABAD, 111.
GK>od Waiting Room at
rly. sta.
MEHSANA, 118.
MEKAR, 74.
MERGUI, 437.
MERTA ROAD, 122.
METTUPALAIYAM (R.),388.
Junction of Madras and
Nilgiri Railways. The lat-
ter is a mountain railway,
whose present terminus is
Coonoor, 20 miles up the
Hills. Ootacamund, the
hill capital, is 12 miles from
Coonoor. The railway com-
pany provides tongas, and
carts for luggage, at Coo-
noor, for those who ha\'e
booked through to Ootaca-
mund. (R.) at Coonoor.
Take warm wraps.
MHOW, 80.
D.B. ; Refireshmeut and
Waiting Room at rly. sta.
MIANI, 164, 230. .
MmiNTALE, R.H., 458.
MINBU, 434.
MINCHNAL, 804.
MINERI, 469.
MIKGUN, 430.
Steamers: The traveller
should call at the office of
the Irrawaddy Flotilla Co.
to arrange his trip.
MINHLA, 434.
MIRAJ (R.), 297.
D.B. near sta.
MIRISGONI OYA, 456.
MIRZAPUR, D.B., 89.
Olub : Mirzapur 0.
MITHRI, 235.
MIYAGAM, 108.
MOGOK, 431.
MOGUL SARAI (R.), 39, 262.
MOHAL, 331.
MOHNYIN, 430
MOHPANI, 35.
MOHUN, D.B., 256.
MOHUNPOORA, 220.
MOKAMEH (R.), 50.
MONARPUR, 78.
MONTGOMERY (R.), D.B.,
221.
MONTPEZnt OAVBS, 22.
MOODKI, 166, 196.
MOOLTAN, 222.
Refreshment and Waiting
Rooms ; D.B. exactly oppo-
site the Cantonment sta.
MOON PLAINS, 446.
MORADABAD, 288.
D.B. lim. N. of rly. sta.;
accommodation at rly. sta.
on application to station-
master.
Hotel : Imperial H.
MORAR, 92. " '
MORATUWA, 451.
MORTAKKA, D.B.,78.
Starting-place for Uukarji.
MORVI, 162.
MOULMEIN, 435.
Hotels : Criterion, Na-
tional Uall, and BHtish
India.
Club : The Moidmein
Gymkhana. No sleeping ac-
commodation.
Bankers: BankofBengaL
Chemists : Surgical Holl,
Tovm Dispensary.
Conveyances : Cabs (ticca
gharries) of an inferior de-
scription can be hired at
ILxed rates by time or &-
tance.
Medici^ Man : Tlie Qril
Surgeon (Dr. Thomas).
Newspaper: The Mod-
Ttuin Advertiser.
Steamers: The tiavelkr
should call at the office of
the Irrawaddy Flotilla Co.
to airange his trip.
MOUHT ABU, 119
Good Refreshment and
Waiting Rooms at Abu Road
Sta. 17 m. from Mt, Abu.
D.B. on the hill.
Hotel: RajpuMtm H.
Bazaar for En^'lish
stores.
Club : Rajpiitana C.
MOUNT LAVINL&., 451.
Hotel: Grand H., first-
rate accommodation.
MUGUT KHAN HUBU,301.
MULLAITTIVA, 458.
MXJNDAL, D.B., 257.
MUNISERAM, 454.
MUNMAR (R.), D.B., 31.
MURKURTI PEAK, 390.
MURREE, 211, 216.
Hotels : FoivelTs H., Bat-
bury's H.
Club : Murree C.
MURSHEDABAD, 264.
MUSHOBRA, 192.
MUSSOORIE, 256.
Hotels : CharlevOlt B.
very good, Hampton Court
H.,TivertonH. (bothinKall),
Himalaya H., M-u^soorie B.
(Manager, C. Willard) near
Club and P.O., WoodvilitE.,
Oriental H., Zephyr lodge
H., Kenilworth Lodge H.
MUTTRA, D.B., 182.
MUTWAL, 442.
MIYAGAM, 108.
MYBMSING (R.), 276.
MYINGYAN, 481.
MYITKYINA, 431.
MYOHAUNG, 438.
MYSORE, D.B. near Jafl,
385.
Hotels: Gordon H. poor.
Royal li.
N.
NAGAI, 345
NAGAM, 123.
NAGPUR, 74.
Hotel close to sta. Vai^
inK RooiuK at sta.
Club, good.
: Bengal and Nagpnr S|y. :
Express trains betweea
d by Google
VHDEX AND DIEEOTOBY
479
Calcutta and Bombay via
Nagpur take 48 hrs.
NAINGHAT, D.B., 257.
NAINI (R.), 36.
HoteL
NAINI TAL, 258.
Hotels: Douglas Dale H.,
Jteynolds' H., Grand Hotel
(formerly Albion), and
Harris H., on the Mall N. of
tlie lake ; LangJiam H., S.
Mall ; Hill's H., near P.a
and Club ; Murray's H. ;
jRv^tom Family H.
Club: Nairii Tal C, near
St. John's Church.
Shop: Morrison's (Euro-
pean goodH).
From Kathgodam to
Naini Tal Brewery by tonga
daily, 8 rs. 8 as. Dandies,
ponies, and coolies are al-
ways available at Brewery,
where there are also R. and
sleeping accommodation.
NAJIBABAD, 238.
NAKELO, R.H., 461.
NALANDB, R.H. good, 455.
NALHATI, 264.
NALWAB, 833.
NAMBAPANE, R.H., 451.
NANDO AON, 31. *
D.B. (R.), and Waiting
Rooms.
NANDIDRUa, 378.
Hotel, managed by pro-
prietor of Cubbon If., Ban-
galore.
NANDYAL, 358.
NANGPOH, D.B., 274.
NANJANGUD, 386.
NANUOYA, 446.
NARAINA, 126.
NARAINGANJ, D.B., 276.
NARAKAL, 369.
Steamship Agents :
B.I. S.N. Co., AspiA wall and
Co.
NARAMMULA, 444.
NARI, 235.
NARKANDA, 192.
D.B. Six rooms, splendid
view of snowy range.
NARMAH, 237.
NASAK FRONTIER, 235.
NASIK ROAD, 28.
D.B. and Waiting Rooms.
Capital Tongas on hire.
Tramway to City 6 m.
distant.
Mission: C.M.S. sta. (at
Sharanpore), see p. 29.
Headquarters Royal
Western India Golf Club ;
good links.
NASINA (R,), 238.
NATTORE (R.), D.B., 270.
NAULA, R.H., 462.
NAUSAR, 126.
NAVSARI, 105.
NAWANAGAR, 165.
NAYA BUNGALOW, D.B.,
274.
NAYNAROO, 218.
NBEMUCH (R.), 82.
D.B. Good Club, with
cricket ground, etc., at-
tached.
NEGAPATAM (R.), 400.
Steamship Agents :
B.I.S.N. Co., weekly service
to coast ports.
NEGOMBO, R.H. excellent,
426.
NEKI, 221.
NELLORE, 834.
D.B. good.
NBMAL AAR, 462.
NERAL (R.X 318.
Very good Waiting
Room, with Baths, etc. at
rly. sta.
NBRBUDDA RIVER, 78.
NIGRITING, 274.
NILANA VALLEY, 220.
NILGALA, R.H., 460.
NILGIRI HILLS, 891.
NOWSHERA, 213, 220.
D.B. near Post Office.
NUSSEERABAD, 86, 126.
D.B. 1 m, from rly. sta.
NUWARA ELIYA, 446.
Hotels: Keena House, -well
spoken of and moderate ;
Grand II. indiftereut, better
accommodation at the club.
Boarding House: Mrs.
Scott's, good.
Club : a comfortable
bungalow.
Golf Club.
NYAUNGU, 431.
OKANDA, R.H., 462.
OKHAMANDAL, 164.
OODEYPORE, D.B. good, 85.
Travellers of distinction,
who are recommended by
the Resident, will Mnd ac-
commodation in the Maha-
rana's Guest House. Those
who intend staying at the
D.B. should writ* before-
hand to the Khansamah in
charge, as the accommoda-
tion is limited. Carriages
are provided from the
Maharana's stables on
application to the Resident.
Mission: U.F. Church of
Scotland, medical.
OOMANPUR, 112.
OOMBRKOTE. See Urmrkote.
OOMER NATH, 219.
OOTACAMUND, 389.
Hotels : SyWs H .- H. Oe
Paris ; BosevMunt H.; Skoir-
hani H.
Boarding House: Long-
wood: Alta Villas.
Clubs: Ootacamund C.
and Gymkhana C.
Bank : Bank of Madras.
ORAI(R.), D.B., 91.
ORCHHA, 102.
PABBI, 213.
PACHBADRA, 121.
PACHMARI, 35.
Hotel: PachTnari H.
Military Convalescent
Depdt.
PACHOilA, D.B., 81.
PAGAN, 481.
PAILGAM, 219
PAKOKKU, 431, 439.
PAK PATTAN, 222.
PALABADDALA, good ac-
commodation and water, 450.
PALAMCOTTA, 408.
Missions: C'.Af. 5. Training
Institution ; Schools ; Sarah
Tucker Institution; Tamil
Mission Church.
PALAMPODDARU, R.H..
460.
PALANPUR (R.X D.B., 119.
PALBTWA, 438.
PA LH ALLAN, 219.
PALITANA, 158.
D.B. Doolies can be ob-
tained either privately or
through the officers of the
Palitana Darbar. Charges,
6 an. to 2 rs.
PALLAl, R.H., 458.
PALLEGAMA, 448.
PALNI HILLS, 404.
See Ammaijayuiyakunur. ,
PALUTUPANB, R.H., 454.
PANADURA, R.H. good and
well 8ituate<l, 451.
PANCHGANNI, 293.
PANDHARPUR, 381.
PANDUAH, 269.
PANHALA, 298.
PANIKKANKULAM, R.H.,
458.
PANIPUT, 187.
D.B. tolerable.
PANKULAM, B.H., 455.
PAPANASHAM, 408.
PARA HAT, 78.
d by Google
4d0
nrDBX AND DIREOTORY
PARASGAD, 801.
PARA8NATB MOUNTAIN,
50.
PARBATI, 328.
PARBATIPUR (EL), 270.
PASSARA, R.H., 448.
PATAL PANI, 80.
PATAN, 119.
PATAN SOMNATH, 161.
PATHANKOT(R.), D.B., 190.
PATIALA, 166.
PATNA, 48.
PATRI, D.B., 152.
PATTADAKAL, 315.
PATTAN, 219.
PA WANGADH, 29S.
PAWANGARH, 109, 110.
PAYBCH, 218
PEGU, 425.
PELMADULLA, E.H., 450.
PENDRA, 76
PEONTREE, 257.
PERADENIYA, 443.
PESHAWAR, D.B., 218.
Hotel: de Bozario's H.,
near Cantonment railway
station.
MUslons : see p. 213.
PETLAD, 110.
PHAGU, 192.
D.B., grand view.
PHALERA (R.), 123.
PHALLUT, 272.
PHILIBHBET, D.B., 288.
PILLAIYAN KOVIL, 409.
PIND DADAN KHAN, 209.
PINDRI GLACIER, 254.
PIPARIA, 35.
D.B. Notice should be
sent to ensure meals beinj?
provided. Country carts
available for luggage. Ton-
gas available by writing to
Mail Contractor.
PIRANA MONASTERY, 11 S.
PIR PANJAL, 220.
PIR PATTAN, 231.
PLASSEY, 266
PODANUR (R.), 387.
Excellent sleeping accom
modation at the rly. sta.
POLGAHAWBLA, 448.
POLLONARUA, 459.
The Govt. Bungalow on
th« Bund does duty as the
R.H., and IS comfortable.
PONDICHERRY, 894.
Hotels and D.B.
SteamBhlp Agents :
B. T.S.N. Co. ; Messngeries
Maritimes, Gallois Mont-
brun.
POONA, 825.
Hotels : Connaught i/.,
best; Club if., Napier //.,
Pon7m H.
Bank : Bombay Bank
(Branch).
Clubs: Western India C,
between Ordnance Lines and
Woodhouse Road sta., very
good. Has sleeping accom-
mo<lation.
The Boat Clnb forms an
important feature in the
amusements of the place.
Gymkhana Club and Library.
A visitor, introduced by a
member, can join the Club.
On the cricket -ground,
attached, are played the
principal matches during
the monsoon months.
GolfChib: good links.
Mail Contractor : Ardt-
shir Framjee, Civil Lines.
Milliner and Dress-
maker : Miss Watson.
Missions : see p. 826.
C.M.S. sta. (Mission House
at Cyprus Lodge), Divinity
School.
PORADAHA, 270, 275.
PORBANDAB, D.B., 164.
PORTO NOVO, 396.
POSHIANA, D.B., 220.
PRATABGARH HILL -
PORT, 294.
PROME, 434.
PUNCH, D.B., 221.
PURANDHAR, 330.
PURI (Jagannath), 278, 353.
D.B. i ni. from landing-
place.
Tlie excursion to the BlacI:
Pagoda (20 m.) is best done
by night in a paXki (5 hrs.),
devoting the following day
to the Pagoda and the night
after to the return journey.
There is no very .satisfactoi y
place to spend the night in
near the Black Pagoda, but
accommodation may be ob-
tained at Karnaraic, about
1 m. from the Pagoda, where
there is a Salt Chauki.
I PURULTA, 78.
PUSHKAR LAKE, D.B., 126.
] PUSSELLA, R.H. goo«l,
I beautifully situated, 449.
I PUTTALAM, R.H. indiffer-
ent, 454,
PYINMANA, 426.
Q.
QUETTA (R.), 236.
D.B. Hotel : iMnsdowne H.
A new line is in contem-
plation, either by the Zhob
Valley, or via Mushkhat.
dub : Quetta C.
B.
RACKWANE, 450.
RAEWIND (R.X 221.
RAIGHUR (B.), D.B., S3S.
RAIDANI, 221.
RAIGARH, 77, 329.
RAIPUR, D.B., 76.
RAJAHMUNDRY (RX 352.
RAJAORI, D.B., 220.
RAJKOT, 164.
D.B. ikcing the race-
course.
RAJMAHAL, 266.
RAJPORB, D.B., 256.
Hotels : Priwx of WaU^t
H., New J?., Victoria E.
Hursf s jhampans, ponies,
and dandies available.
RAJPURA, 195.
RAMBAGH, D.B., 253.
RAMBHA, 853
RAMBODA PASS, 446.
RAMBUKKANA, 444.
RAMBSWARAM, 371, 400.
RAMNAaAR, 46.
RAMPUR, D.B., 217
RANAGHAT, D.B., 270.
RANCHI, 78.
RANDER, 107.
RANGMO RIVBR, 272.
RANGOON, 420.
Hotels : Jordan's, Mer-
chant Street; The Strand H.:
British India, Sole Pagod*
Road.
English Boarding
Houses : Mrs. Ledfjfidd,
8 Ahlone Road, next to
Government Lodge, 15 min.
drive from the'^ilTiarf: Ponies
with Victorias and Dog-carts
onhirrf; Mrs. Smithy *' Allen-
dale," in cantonments 2 m.
from PoatOflBce, well spoken
of— Rooms .should be en-
gaged beforehand ; Onwi-
tal Boarding Establisknient,
Phayre Street. Some people
find it convenient to sUj
on board the Irawaddy
steamers, where the cabins
are clean and the food good.
Restaurants at the above
hotels ; also at (^iesa's.
Italian confectioner. War-
wick House, Fytche Square.
Clubs : Pegu Club, Proine
Road Cantonments, with
sleeping accommodatioB tt-
tached. Strangers admired
as honorary membera,
Burma Club^ Vei^btft
Street. Strangers a^n^tod
as honorary memlMna^
d by Google
INDEX AND DIRBCTOBnr
481
German Clubt Commis-
sioners Bead.
Gymkhana Club, Halpin
Road. A favourite resort
in the evenings. Ladies ad-
mitted. Tennis courts,
billiard tables, reading
room, bar, etc. Military
band most evenings.
Agents: ScoU and Co.,
Merchant Street.
Bands: A military band
performs four times a week
at the Gymkhana in Halpin
Road; once a week (usually)
in Fytche Square, in the
Cantonment Gardens, and in
DalJiousie Park.
Bankers : Bank of Bengal,
Strand Road ; Chartered
Bank of India, Australia,
and China, Strand Road;
Hongkong and Shanghai
Banking Corporation, Na-
tional Bank of India, Phayre
Street; Agra Bank.
Booksellers : Myles Stand-
ish and Co., 58 Barr Street ;
American Baptist Mission
Press.
Calling : The usual calling
hours are between 12 and 2,
but the custom of calling in
the afternoon (between 4
and 6) is now becoming
generally recognised.
Chemists : E.M.de Souza
and Co. ,215 Dalhousie Street;
Rangoon Medical Hall, 12
Merchant Street ; New Medi-
cal Hall, G Phayre Street.
Consnls : The American
Consul is usually the senior
partner of the firm of M essrs.
Bulloch Bros, on the Strand
Road. The names of the
representatives of other
nations are given in the
Quarterly Civil List, and
also in the Burma Directory,
published at the Rangoon
Gazette Press in Merchant
Street.
Conveyances : Cabs (ticca
gharries) of a somewhat in-
ferior kind, drawn by single
ponies, can be hired at
moderate charges (accord-
ing to the class of convey-
ance) by time or distance.
The drivers are usually
Madrassis, who understand
neither English, Burmese,
nor Hindustani, and know
neither the names of the
streets nor the situation of
the principal offices or
houses. Strangers should
therefore, if possible, take a
Tamil-speaking servant with
[India, viii. 01.]
them when going about
Rangoon in cabs.
Craftsmen: The princi-
pal Burmese silversmiths,
goldsmfths, and wood carv-
ers are to be found in God-
win Road ; specimens of
Burmese wood carving can
also be obtained at the Cen-
tral Jail ; images of Qauda-
ma in brass and alabaster,
and kalagas (appliqu6 work)
in Kemmendine.
Dentists : Mr. Moore in
Fytche Square, and Mr.
StepTiens in Merchant Street.
0«ieral Stores : ScoU and
Co., Merchant Street; Bowe
and Co., Sule Pagoda Road ;
T?ie Burma Co - operative
Society, Sule Pagoda Road.
Hairdressers : Frank
Watson, Merchant Street ;
Watson and Summers, Mer-
chant Street.
Libraries: Bernard Free
Library at the Rangoon Col-
lege, uid Bangoon Literary
Society and Cvrculaiing
Library in York Road.
Markets: The Municipal
Market on the Strand Road,
the Suratee Bazaar in Chiiia
Street, and the Municipal
Bazaar at Kemmendine.
Medical Men : The Senior
and Junior Civil Surgeons
(at present Drs. Joh^istone
and Baker) in Cantonments ;
Dr. T. F. Pedley in Sule Pa-
goda Street, Dr. W. H.
Sutherland in Lake Road,
Dr. E. M. de Souza in Dal-
housie Street, and several
others.
Milliners and Dress-
makers : Rowe and Co. ;
Madame le Breton, 74 Mer-
chant Street.
Monasteries : In the im-
mediate neighbourhood of
the Pazundaung rly. sta.
dwells UthHawunlha, an old
monk with a special pen-
chaM for Buropeans. He
keeps a very successful
school, and is always pleased
to receive visitors-
Newspapers : The two
leading English newspapers
are the Bangoon Gazette and
the Bangoon Times, and the
leading vernacular news-
paper is the Bwrma, Herald.
Photographers : Klier,
Signal Pagoda Road ; Walts
and Skeeen, Sule Pagoda
Road.
Railways : There are two
lines out of Rangoon—
(1) The IrrOAoaddif Line
running to Prome.
(2) The Sittan{i Line run-
ning to Toungoo and Manda-
lay, and thence to Wuntho.
The terminus for both
lines is at the junction of
Phayre Street and Mont-
gomery Street. The Irra-
waddy line has pick-up
stations at Godwin Road,
Prome Road, and Alon, and
a large station at Kemmen-
dine.
Staamsliip Agencies :
Bibby Line, The Arrakan
Co., Limited.
BriHOi India S. N. Co.,
Messrs. Bulloch Bros.,
Strand Road.
Irrawaddy FlotUla Co.,
Strand Road.
Messrs. Thos. Cook and
S(ms, Merchant Stareet
Theatres: There are no
theatres, but travelling
companies frequency visit
Rangoon and give perform-
ances at the Assembly
Rooms in Pagoda Road.
Tramways : A steam
tramway runs firom the
Strand Road to the Great Pa-
goda along China Street and
Pagoda Road, and another
along Dalhousie Street from
Alon to Pazundaung.
RANIGUNJ, 3 D.Bs., 51.
Hotel: WUliavi'sH.
RANIEHET, D.B., 254.
RANIPET, 871.
RANJIT RIVER, 272.
RANNE, R.H. small and
poor, 424.
RATANPUE, 77.
RATLAM. See RiUlam,.
RATNAaiRI, 868.
D.B. Excellent club.
RATNAPUBA, B.H. good,
449, 451.
RAWAL PINDI (E.X 211.
Cantonment D.B. close to
Post Office.
Hotels: Flashman's H.,
best, opposite the club.
Limetrce H., near sta.; Rairal
Pindi H., MeUor's H., Mrs.
Bryant's H., Mrs. Stewart's
H., Imperial H.
Club : Rawal Pindi C.
RENIGUNTA (JR.), 884.
June, for Tirupati and
S.I.R., and for N«llore.
Rooms at rly. sta.
RETI (JR.), 224.
Digitized by VjOOQIC _
488
INDEX AND DIBBCTORY
RSWABI (B.X 181, 165.
D.B. not far from rly. sta.
RBZON, 219.
RTNDLI, 237.
BOHRI, D.B., 225.
ROOBKBE, D.B., 287, 256.
ROTAS, D.B., 209.
ROURKBLA, 78.
ROY BARBILLY, 239
BOZA,60.
One Bungalow available
on abdication to the Mess
Secy, of the Hyderabad
Contingent. Paradise
Lodge, another bungalow.
Permission must be asked
from the Sadr. Talnkdar at
Aurangabad (travellers
should take provisions).
(See also EUora Caves.)
RUANWKLLA, R.H., 449.
RUDBAR, 287.
RUK (R.), D.B., 226, 234.
RUNGARUN, 271.
RUNGPORB, D.B., 278.
RUNN OF CUTCH, 162.
RUTLAM, D.B. (R.), 82.
RUTTEN PIR, 220.
8.
SABARMATI, 118, 152.
SABATHU, 191.
8ADHARA, 88.
8ADRAS, 412.
SAGAING, 429.
aAHABANPORB (R.), D.B.,
194, 237, 256. "
The Dak from here to
Rajpore can only carry 2J
mda. of luggage. All heavy
packages should be booked,
and rly. receipt sent to
Messrs. Bum and Co., L.C.,
who meet all trains. Good
Hotels : Percy H. , Empress H.
8AHBBGUNGE (R.), 50.
SALEKASA, 76.
8AIDABAD, D.B., 220.
SAIRAH, 221.
8ALBM (R.), 887.
Starting point for Yer-
caud and Shevaroy Hills.
The native town of Salem is
4 m. distant from the rly.
Accommodation at rly.
sta. much needed fbr tra-
vellers to and from Shevaroy
HiUs. Mail train ttom
Madras and Bombay arrives
at 4.13 A.M.
SALBMYO, 434.
SALUVAN KUPPAN, 409.
8AMAGULING, 274.
8AMALK0T, 352.
SAMBALPUB, D.B., 77
ftAKrawATt LAKE, 123.
SAMPGAON, 301.
SANAWAR, 190.
I3AN0HI (Gt. Tope), 88.
Permission may be ob-
tained from the Manager of
the Midland Rly. for a car-
riage to be shunted within
i mile of the Tope. Pro-
visions should be taken.
SANGAM, 826.
8ANGANBR, l29.
SAPARA, 25.
SARA GHAT, 270.
SARANDA FORESTS; 78.
SARDAIPUR, 288.
SARDHANA, D.B., 198.
8ABKHEJ, 117.
8ARNATH, 46.
SABUB NAGAR, 348.
8ATARA ROAD, 294.
SATGAON, 64.
SAUGAR ISLAND, 52.
SAUOOR, D.B., 89.
SAUNDATI, 301.
SEOUNDERABAD, 348.
Hotels : The Duke of Ccwt-
navght if., clean and com-
fortable, English landlady.
Visitors to Hyderabad, 5J
m. distant, will find better
accommodation here.
Clubs : United Service C. ;
Gymkhana.
SEHWAN, 227.
D.B. It is necessary for
the traveller to bring pro-
visions with him.
SBNCHAL 273.
SERAM, 345.
SEBAMPOBE, 64.
Mission: Baptist College
and Schools^ Zanaim,
8BRARIM, D.B., 277.
SEBINGAPATAM, 380.
SEVEN PAGODAS (Maha-
balipur), 408.
SHADIPORB, 217.
SHAHABAP 338.
SHAH DARA, 206, 207.
SHAHJAHANPUR (B.), 2S9.
Qub : Shahjaihanpur C.
SHAHRIG (R.), 236.
SHALDIAB, 205
8HANKARPALLI, 345
SHEAGAON (R.), D.B., 74.
SHBINMAGA, 481.
SHEKOHPXTRA, 207.
SHELA BAGH, 236.
SHBR SHAH, D.B., 224.
SHB^tTTNJBE (SATBUN-
JATA) Hn.LS, 153.
SHEVAROY mLLS, 387.
Two small Hotels.
Boarding House kept by
Miss NorJoTf and several
others.
8HIKARPUB, 221, 234.
D.B. Travellers must
bring provisions with them.
It is better to stop st Ruk
or Jacobabad.
SHHiLONG, D.B., 274, 277.
Hotel : SkiUong H. Pony
Tonga service daily to Gau-
hati, and bullock - train ser-
vice daily to Cherrapuiyl
Rates for each seat in tongi
25 rs., 15 seers of lu^!^
free. Write to Manager,
Gauhati and Shillong Tran-
sit Service, Gauhati.
SHISHA NAG, 219.
SHIVASAMUDBAM, DB.
fair, 879.
8H0LAPUR, D.B., 304, 331.
8HRAVANA BELAOOLA,
362.
SHRINAGAR, 164.
SHUKLTIRTH, lOS.
SHUPIYAN, D.B., 220.
8HWBGU, 430.
SIALKOT, 208.
Good D.B.
SIBI (R.), D. 235.
SIDHPUR, 119.
SIGIRI, 456.
8IH0RE, D.B., 155.
SIELANDARAH, 176.
SILISBRH LAKE, 131.
SHJLIQURI (R. goodX D.B.
2Ya
SIMLA, 191.
Hotels: Peliti's ff. (besi),
Loturie's H., on the Mall,
close to the Cburch, LibraiTf
and Club (open throu^oo
the year). At it is a»
Agenoy for Coolies, and
general forwarding poi^
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INDSX A17D DIBECTOBT
483
poses. Longvtood H., Hard-
ing s H., Elysivm H.j Rock'
cliff ^M Imperial H., Bon-
sard H.
Banks: There are sereral.
dubs : The United iSemce,
250 yds. S. of Ck>inberinere
Bridge, comfortable.
Simla and Kalka line.
Tongas, 25 rs. ; phaetons, 50
rs. ; and invalidhill-carriages
used for this jonmey. Seats
booked in ordinary convey-
ances, 8 rs. , leaving at 9 a. m. ,
are always subject to the
condition that the weight
and bulk of local and parcel
mails will admit of pas-
sengers (12 seers of luggage
free). Passengers by tonga,
using the front seat, should
wear close-fitting spnectaclefi
or veils, as a protection
against injury to their eyes
from particles of stone or
metal. The mail tonga takes
about 8 hrs., stopping half-
way at Solon for tiffin.
BIND VALLEY, 219.
SINGU, 430.
SINHGARH, 828.
SIR-I-BOLAN, 237.
SmHIKD, 195.
SIRSA <R.), 166.
SITABAMPUR, 51. -
SOBRAON, 166, 196.
SOLON, 190.
D.B. excellent, and Khan-
samaJi's H.
SOMNATHPUB, 879.
SONAMARG, 219.
SONARI, 88.
SONGAD, 168.
Dharmsala comfortable.
This is the station for
Palitana. Write to Dep.
Ass. Pol. Agent at Songad
for a conveyance.
BONGIR, 109.
SONUA, 78
eOOKNA, 270.
BOPOR, 217.
iRIMANGAL, 277
SBINAQAB, D.B., 217.
A hotel (Nedou's) was to
be open in 1900, travellers
should inquire about this.
There are no hotels but a
few "quarters" or chambers
owned by the state, which
can with difficulty be pro-
l cured by application to the
" Director of ^blic Works "
at a rental of Rs. 15 to 30
a month according to the
number of rooms required.
Bungalows are being erected
at Guphar, above the Dal
Lake, about i hour's walk
from MunshI Bagh. for
rental to visitors at Rs. 50
to 100 a month. Visitors
to Srinagar generally live
in their house-boats, or in
tents pitched in the various
lovely groves which sur-
round the city.
The best camping grounds
are the Chenar Bagh (for
bachelors), the Munshi
Bagh, the Ram Munshi
Bagh, and the Narib Bagh
(on the Dal Lake).
The Native Agent of
the Maharaja, Rai Sahib
Babu Amamath, is very
courteous, and will give any
information as to quarters,
prices, coolies, etc.
Cockbum's Agency under-
takes the hire of boats,
tents, furniture, and all
camp requisites, which
should be ordered to be
ready on arrival. They also
advise visitors as to pur-
chases, and give every kind
of information.
English C^UMh Servioe
every Sunday in the new
English Church in the
Munshi Bagh.
Missions.— The C. M. a
has a station and doctors
here.
Official Bnles for Travel-
lers.—Copies are obtainable
from the Resident, and from
Babu Amamath.
There are fair Otinsmitlis
and Tacklemakers in the
town, also a Library— Tra-
vellers are allowed to take
books out. Turkish Baths.
Eesidenoy Surgeon at-
tends visitors during the
season.
SBI BANQAM, 403
SUKKUB (R.), 226.
D.B. ^ m. from the sta.
in the European quarters,
the best in Sind.
SULTANPUR, 192.
D.B. bad.
SUMBAL, 217.
SUNAWIN, 217.
SITPARA, 21, 25, 27.
SURAMUNGAL*AM (B.), 887.
Rly. sta. for the town of
Salem, and starting-point
for Yercaud and the Sheva-
roy Hills.
SURAT, 105.
B., Some sleeping accom-
modation and Waiting
Room at rly. sta. D.B. on
river-bank.
Inlaid Work and Carved
Sandal Wood are specialities
of Snrat.
SUTGATI, D.B., 800.
SUTNA, 86.
D.B. about 1 m. from rly.
sta. (B.) Carts and ponies
available. Changing sta.
for engines.
SYLHBT VALLEY. 4D.Bs.
275.
SYNJ, 257.
8YRIAM, 424.
TADPATRI (B.), D.B. in the
town, 384.
TAIGANNAM, 390.
TAKHI, 237.
TALAWAKELE, 446.
TALBAHAT, D.B., 89.
TAMLUK, 53.
TANDUR (B.), 845
TANGALLA, 453.
B.H. remarkably good
and pleasantly situated
close to the sea.
TANGHI, B.D., 290.
TANGROT, D.B., 221.
TANIN, 219.
TANJORB (R.), 898.
D.B. close to sta., to the
B. of the Little Fort, where
I)ony and bullock • carts
are available.
TANNA, D.B., 27.
TANSA, D.B., 26.
TANSA WATER SUPPLY, 26.
TAPTI BRIDGE, 34.
TARAGARH, 124.
TARN TABAN, D.B., 199.
TATTA, 230.
There is only a native
rest-house here, but there
is a D.B. (food must be
taken) on theMalxkalli Hills.
Telegraph Sta. here.
TAVOY, 437.
TEBNDARIA (R.), 271.
TEB8TA, D.B., 273.
TEBSTA GHAT. 270.
TEHRI, 102.
TELLICHEBBT, .S66.
D.B. good. There is also
an excellent little Club.
Agents: B.I. S.N. Co.
TBRIA GHAT, D.B., 277.
TEZPORE, D.B., 274.
THABEIKKYIN 430.
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484
INDEX AND DIRECTORY
THANNA MANDI, D.B., 220.
THANE8AR, D.B., 189.
THAYETMO, 434.
THEOG, 192.
TIGER HILL,2rj.
TIGYAING, 430.
TINDIVANAM (R.), 893.
D.B. good, with servantu
and crockery.
TINNBVBLLY, D.B., 407.
Blissions: S.P.G. sta. (at
Nazareth); C.M.S. College.
TIXNIPITIYAWBWA TANK
454.
TIN PAHAR, 266.
R.H. small but good.
TIRAPANB, B.H., 456.
TIBUPATI, 384.
Refreshment and sleeping
rooms at Ren^nta Junc-
tion Station. Wiite before-
hand to station-master for
conveyance.
TONGLU, 272.
TORWAH, 804,
TOSHAM, 165.
TRI0HINOPOLT(R.), 401. .
D.B. 1 m. from sta.; sleep-
ing accommodation at rly.
sta.
Club: Trichinopoly C.
TRIMALGIRI, 348.
TBIMBAK, 30.
TBINOOMALEE. R.H., 460.
Steamship Agent!
B.I.S.N. Co.
TEIVALUR, 348.
TUGHLAKABAD, 151.
TUMKUR (E.), 362.
TUNDLA (R.), 260.
TUNI, 852.
TUnOORIN, D.B., 371, 407.
Hotel: BHtish India H.
Mission: S.P.G. Bta.
Steamship Agents :
B. I.S.N. Co., Adamsou,
Mactaggart and Co.
Bank: Bank of Madras.
U.
UDAYACHBI CAVES, 286.
UDAIPUR. See Ood^pore.
UDA POT AN A, 462.
UDVADA, 105.
UJJAIN,D.B.,81.
ULUBARIA, 53.
ULWAR. See Alwar.
UMARIA, 36.
UMRAT.T.A (B.) D.B., 190.
Hotels: Lawrence's F.,
LumUy's ff., Sirhind H. ;
all near the rly. sta.
Agents: R. Norton and
Co. undertake the clearmg
and forwarding of goods be-
tween Umballa, Simla, Ea-
sauli, etc. ,
Club : Sirhind C.
Golf Club.
UMBRKOTE, 280.
UNDAVILLI, 359.
UN.7ALUR, 387.
UNJHA, 119.
UNKARJI, D.B., 79.
URIA, D.B., 120.
URI, D.B., good, 217.
V.
VADNAGAR, 118.
VALABHIPUR, 155.
VANKANER, 165.
VAVUNIYf-VILANKULAM,
R.H. fair, 458.
VEHAR-LAKE, 22.
VELLOBB; 374.
VERAWAL. 160.
Travellers may find it con-
venient to get permission
from the station-master to
retain their first-class rly.
carriage at the sta., and to
sleep in it at night
VERNAG, 219.
VIGITIPURA, 45C.
yiJAYAKAOAB(HampiX358
D.B. at Kamalapur. See
Hampi.
VILLUPtJRAM (R), 894.
D.B. 1 m. from rly. sta.
VIRAMGAM, 118, 152, 166.
Waiting Room at rly. sta.
Dharmsala near Great
Tank, well furnished.
VISHVAMITRI, 108.
VISNAGAR, 118. .
VI^GAPATAM, D.B., 852.
Missions «: L. M. Soc. ;
R C. Mission.
VIZIANAGRAM, 352.
W.
WADHWAN(R,X152.
D.B. close to rly. sta.
WADI, 838.
R. and beds.
WAH, 212.
WAI, 292.
D.B., good.
On side nearest HahaU
eshwar BUll.
WALAH, 155.
WALTAIR (R.X 352.
WARANGAL, 852.
Line to Warora i n progwt
WARDHA, D.B., 74.
Waiting and Befrei^
ment Rooms at rly. sta.
WARGAON, 323.
WARIYAPOLA, R.H., 444.
WARORA, D.B., 74.
Line to Warangal in pm'
WATHAR (R.X and Waitin:
Room at rly. sta., 292.
Where an excellent van
can be provided for i**
sengers bonnd for Mahat«^
eshwar, if previoas notice b*
given. Tongas can b
ordered by writing to tb^
Mail Contractor.
WAZIRABAD (R.), D.B., 20j
WELIGAMA, R.H., 452.
WELIMADU, 419.
WELLINGTON, 889.
WILSONS BUNGAIX)W,44T
R.H. very good.
WIRAWILA, R.H., 453.
WULAR LAKE, 217.
YALA RIVER, B.H., 462.
YAMETHIN, 426.
YANKINTAUNG, 429.
YBLLANDU, 369
YENA FALLS, 294.
YENANGYAUNG, 434.
YERGAUD (SbiBYsaoj Wm
387. See Salem.
ZA^ARABAD, 252.
ZIARAT, 235
?OCP
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