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^ <

^^1

AGRA

Gift of

Mr. George H. McMurray

STANFORD
UNIVERSITY
LIBRARIES

TRACKER'S

HANDBOOKS OP HINDOSTAN-

^GR A .

THAOKEB, SPIKK & CO., CALCUTTA.

HANDBOOK for VISITORS

AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

H. G. KEENE, CLE., M.A.,

AWTHOK OF "THE FALL OF THK MOGHUL RMPIRK, P:TC.

SIXTH EDITION

oralcuUa:

THACKER, SPINK & CO.
London : W. THACKER & Co.

1899.
\AU rights reset ved.\

^ M^

1 n?

PRINTED BT TH ACKER, SPINK & CO., CALCUTTA.

CONTENTS.

Paob.

The City of Agra

... 1

The Fort ...

• •

The Taj Mahal

... 22

Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah

Stkandra

.. 43

Tombs in the City and Suburbs ..

Fattehpur-Sikri

... 62

Bhurtpoor

MjEEG ... ... ... •••

... 87

Govardhan

8»

MUTTRA

... 91

BiNDRABUN

. ... 99

History of the Mo<iHUL Empire

... 107

appendices-
Hindustani Architecture ... ... 130

Rules for reducing Huri Years to Christian

X E ARS ... ... ... .,. ... ... lOX

Interpretation of Chronograms ... 152

SoMNATH Gates ... ... ... ... ... 154

Population of Agra ... ... ... 157

INDEX

.. 168

MAPS AND. PLANS.

The City and Environs of Agra
Plan of the Palaces in the Fort
Plan of the Taj Mahal
Plan of Fattrhpur-Sikri

... Frontispiscs,

... ... (7

• • • ... a^

... 66

NOTE.

The followiug system of spelliug, adopted by the Government
•f India, will be pursued throughout this book. It is, however,
to be borne in mind that it is only an uppvoicimation, especially
aH to consonants, which, in many instances, cannot be correctly
transliterated in English.

rt, as Ist (a) in "afar.*'

(i, as 2nd (a) in " afar."

r, as (e) in ' they.*'

/, as 2nd (i) in "quinine."

1/, as (u) in *• bull," or " rule."
Consonants require no further explanation.
[It may help the reader to remember that these sounds are
expressed by the vowels in the English words "ruminant ** and
"obey ;" excepting when they are accented, in<iicating a broader
pronunciation.]

TABLE OF DISTANCES.

From Mch other.

From Agra,

;ra

Mihs,

MUeH.

Karaoli ...

• • • • • •

Fattehpur-Sikri

BhnrtjKjor

Kumbher

... •.• (TA

Deeg

Govardlian

Muttra ...

14i

liindrabun

to Muttra (return) ...

Furra

• •• •••

Runkutta...

• • • • • •

Sikandra ...

•• • •••

Ag^m

••• •••

Bhurtpoor to Muttra ...
See Map,

2:^

PREFATORY NOTE.

The following pages are founded on the Agra Guide
by the same writer which has long been out of
print. Like that work they are not to be taken as
an exhaustive treatment of the objects of interest
with which the neighbourhood of Agra abounds.
Although the writer has used his best endeavours to
render his information accurate by verifying it from
the best and most original sources, yet he has
abstained from controversy and does not desire to be
regarded as an antiquarian authority. His sole
object has been to provide a little handbook contain-
ing all that is likely to be useful to the ordinary
visitor and to others who wish for a general know-
ledge of Agra and its environs.

The following sentences are reproduced from the
Preface to the Agra Guide : —

" Hitherto the only companion-book for the travel-
ler, desirous of visiting the city of Akbar, has been
a brochure published at Lahore professiiig to be
mainly a Guide to the Taj, and founded on a Persian
MS. originally translated in 1854. In his modest
preface to the third edition (published in 1869), the
author of this book sanctions the undertaking of a
work on a more complete and systematic plan, for
which, as he says, materials abound. The present
work is offered to the public in no spirit of dispar-
agement to its predecessor ; and the writer hereby
tenders acknowledgment of much suggestion and
help received from the Guide to '*<? Tai.

vi Prefatory Note,

Thanks are here, as on the former occasion, ten-
dered to many, friends, both Native and European,
without wht)se assistance this work would have been
of little value.

It has not been thought proper to encumber the
margins of pages with references, but pains have,
nevertheless, been taken in regard to the authorities
followed*'. In some instances local tradition and
existing vernacular compilations have been used, but
not, generally, without scrutiny. The Ain Ahhari
and' the Memoirs of Jahangir and Shah Jahan,
together with other original works, have been con-
stantly consulted ; and it is believed that no conclu-
sion has been placed on record as to any disputed
point without the best evidence. Still the writer
cannot but feel conscious of many defects in regard
to which he can only urge that he has not aimed at
anything beyond the scope of a popular handbook.

HANDBOOK FOR VISITORS

AGRA

AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

Ag^ra has no history of importance previous to the
time of Akbar, who is said, after attempting to found a
fortified capital at Fattehpur-Sikri, to have finally estab-
lished his metropolitan palace here, in a far more suit-
able situation, A.D. 1566. It will, however, be seen
lower down that this is one of the many untrue legends
current in popular traditions. The buildings at Fattehpur
were not begun till three years later than those in the fort.

It is believed that the name Agra is derived from
Agur, a local word for a " salt-pan,'* the soil being
brackish, and much salt having been once made here by
evaporation. It had been a residence of the Lodi
Kings, and was occupied by Babar after he had defeated
Ibrahim Khan in 1526. The foundations of his city
are to be still traced on the left bank of the Jumna.
Babar died at Agra, A.D. 1530, and his remains lay at the
Ram Bagh* until a tomb was built for them at Cabul.

The place lies on the right or west bank of the river
Jumna, about 300 miles above its confluence with the

* In the Char Ba<jh, acjording to the Akbanuimaf some miles
lower down the river, and nearly opposite the Taj. The point is
not of much consequence, as the body was soon removed, and no
memorial loft in either place.

K., A. H. V

Handbook to AgM,

e eity
which

lati<d9
whuM

^^^HOangea at Allahabad. It is 841 miles from Calcutta, by
^^^^K'l'Bil ; and 139 miles south-east from Delhi. The city
^^^^B Valla comprise about 1 1 square miles, about half of which
^^^Hsrea is now populated, the rest cuasisting of ruii
^^^^Blavioes, and dusty patches of desert, The populatii
^^^HIb about one hundred and sixty thousand houIi
^^H^'fulty two-thirda ai-e Hindus.

^^^^B In the early part of the seventeenth century, Agra
^^^Bwas " a very great citie and populous, built with stone,

^^^^Kiaving fair and large streets ; it hath a fair

^^^^( castle and strong, entrenched about with a ditch. A
I great resort of merchants from Persia and out of India,

and very much merchandize not above twelve

miles from Fattehpurj a citie as great as London." —
{Calbanke'n letter to Sir T. Smith.)

There is a considerable trade in cotton and salt,
which are brought to the city to be sent down by rail
to Bombay and Calcutta. There is also a siding of the
East Indian Railway, ai.d a State Railway has been
opened to Ajmir, which joins the Bombay and Baroda
Line at Ahmedabod, and thus establishes direct commu-
nicatioa with Bombay. The town ia under a. Municipal
Committee, and is clean and well conserva Led. A girder
bridge has been thrown over the Jmuua, by which the
trains now arrive at the Junction Station facing the fort.

The traveller to Agra will find all the necessary '
formation as to the best way of making the jouri
by reference to any respectable house of agency eitl

iat Bombay or Calcutta.
A description of the hotels is difficult in thiscounti_
of constant changes, where such places are apt to depend,
from time to time, upon the personal habits and means
of those by whom they are held and managed. Persona
Representing them will be found at the railway utation.
There is also a club whei-e geutlemeu nominated by
two mcnibers of committee nmy be received its guests.
The pnncipal European station is on the westeri
^d uurth-weatern sides of the furl and city, iind

'n«fl

itry*

sts.
terol

European Station. 3

sists of the lines of the artillery and infantry, British
and Native, with their accompanying, staff oflficers.
There is a large building in the Cantonment intended by
its designers for a church, and still used as such. Being
in the old "Military Board" style, it cannot be com-
mended as architecture. Proceeding north, the traveller,
keeping the city on his right, passes in succession the
Magistrates' Offices, the Government College, and the
Central Prison, arriving finally at the end of the Civil
Station, where are the Judges' Courts and another
church in a more ambitious style. Turning now to the
right, the first conspicuous object is the Catholic Mission
and Orphanage, a collection of large but not otherwise
interesting buildings. This establishment is of consider-
able antiquity, being said to have been founded in the
reign of the Emperor Akbar. No records of those
days, however, are forthcoming. It is the seat of an,
Episcopal See, and of a benevolent and useful system
of instruction for the sons and daughters of soldiers,
hundreds of whom are here instructed in various
branches of knowledge and fitted to earn their bread
in life as they grow older. Attached to this foundation
is a cemetery at the back of the courts containing tombs
from the earliest date of the Christian settlement. The
older inscriptions are all in the Armenian character,
but there are some in Portuguese, dating early in the.
17th century. Here too lie buried some of the officers of
the Mahratta Service, ending with John Hessing, who
commanded the fort down to his death shortly before the
siege by Lake ; and here, in a handsome Mausoleum, lie
the remains of Walter Reinhardt, founder of the short-
lived principality of Surdhana, and of the now almost
extinct Dyce-Sombre family, whose long litigation with
the British Government will be familiar to every one.

There are also chapels of several sects of Protestant
non-conformists ; and a handsome hall in the Greek
style in memory of the late Lord Metcalfe serves the
European residents as a place of public amuj&Q>\!QL^\!i^«

Handbook lo AgrA.

IL..„^„.,
by the liberality of Mr. Riddell, but Sir W. Muir, whi
lieuteuant-Govenior, cairieti most of ite contents
AlItLhiibitd.
The following description of Akbar'a and Jnhangir'a
Agra is taken from De Laet's Empire of the Great
Motjkiil. (Amsterdam, 1631.)
" Before the time of King Aohabar it is said to bave
Ijeen a mere village. Now it is a most spacious and
populous city, whose streets (thongh they are for the
most part narrow, with the exception of the one in
which the market is situated) can scarcely accommodate
the numerous inhabitants. It lies in the form of a
half-moon on the bunks of the River Jemini, or Soemena,
which flows down from Delly, and which is overhung
by many very beautiful palaces belonging to the nobles
of the empire. The prospect towai-ds the river is moat
pleasant for about six coss or more along its banks.
Here, too, is situated the royal palace, tbe largest and
most magnificent in the wlioie East. It occupies a site
of nearly four stjuare miles (English) and is surrounded
^^^_ on all sides by a wall of hewn atone, inside which is a
^^^Ldouble rampart. Within are thepalaceand court of the
^^^H king, and many other buildings of extraordinary magni-
^^^V ficence. The city itself is surrounded neitiier by a
^^^^ wall nor by a rampart, but only by a deep ditch. The
suburbs are very extensive. It is said that King Aclia-
bar made this his capital in the year loC6, and con-
structed, for its protection and adornment, several gates,
which are called Madhar Derwaaa, Tziartzou Derwasa,
Nim Derwasa, Pouto Derwasa, and Noery Derwasa.
Tbe site of the city is very long in proportion to its

k breadth ; for every one has been anxious to have imme-
diate access to the river, and all have consequently built
their bouses on the bank. . . There comes next

V. p. 13.)

De Laet^a Description (1631). S

the royal palace, the walls of which are built of red
stone to the height of twenty-five cubits, above a some-
what lofty site. The building is a stupendous one, and
has a most delightful prospect, specially towards the
river, on which side it has windows of lattice- work, from
which the king is accustomed to look out at the contests
of elephants. A little within this lattice-work is the
king's residence, which is called the Gussul-can, built
of alabaster in a square form, overlaid with golden
planks in a gorgeous manner. Below this is situated the
women's quarters (Mahael, they call it), occupied by
Nourzian Begem, the most beloved wife of the former
King Jahangir. The remainder of the palatial site is
occupied by various buildings, amongst which the chief
are the women's apartments, viz,^ one set belonging to
Maria Makany, the wife of Achabar and mother of
Jahangir ; then three sets, in which the concubines of
the king are shut up, whereof one set is called Lettewar,
from the name for Sunday ; the second Mangel, from
that of Tuesday ; and the third Zenisser, from that of
Saturday ; on which days the king is accustomed to
visit them respectively. In addition, there is a fifth set
of women's apartments, in which foreign women are
brought up for the pleasure of the. king ; this is called
the Bengaly Mahal. On leaving the royal citadel, one
emerges on a large market, where horses, camels, oxen,
and all kinds of merchandise are sold. Then follow
the palaces of Mirza Abdalla, the son of Chan Azem,
the commander of three thousand horse ; of Aga Nours,
also a commander of three thousand ; Zehenna Chan,
of two thousand ; Mirza Chrom^ the son of Chan Alems,
of two thousand ; Mahabot Chan, of eight thousand ;
Chan Alem, of five thousand ; Radzia Bartzing, of three
thousand ; Radzia Mantzing, of two thousand. I find
it noticed by the English that this city is distant from
Lahore five hundred miles ; from Brampore, a thousand ;
from Asmere, two hundred ; from Suratte, seven huQ-
drid and seventy."

r^ 1
4 Eandbooh to Agra. ^^|

THE FORT. B

The central object of Agro is undoubtedly the Fort,"

I th.

^^■l>ei

■ nf

■ th

impoeing structure with vast red walla and flanking
defences, surmounted everywhere by beehive crenella-
tions. It ia asserted to owe its origin to the advice of
Sulim Chishti, the Saint of Fattehpur-Sikri. Traces of
commenced fortification still exist at the last-named
place, and it is supposed that the original intention of
the monarch was to build his entire metropolis tlici-e,
Sut, as already remarked, the fort buildings had been
[tegun already, the reason being that Fattehpur was not
"mnd healthy, and perhaps that attention may have
aen directed to the groat superiority of the situation
of Agra upon a navigable river. The present fort was
tlie ultimate result. The oldest buildings probitbly date
from the reign of Akbar, and are built of the same red
sandstone that ia used in the external defences.

In front of the pnncipal entrance was a walled square
or piazxa, called Ti-ipulia or Three Gateg, and used as
a market place near the railway station. This was swept
away in 1875 for strategic reasons, and nothing now
exists between the Delhi Gate of the fort and the new
railway station. To the north-west side opposite the
gate of the fort is the Jamtna Mugjid, or Cathedral
Mosque J it is situated on a raised platform and reached
by a brtmd flight of steps, eleven feet high. The main
building is divided into three compartments, each
opening npon the court-yard by a fine archway, and each
surmounted by a curious dome, in which white and red
stone courses alternate in a slanting direction, of which
the effect is very ningular. We have the most complete
^certainty as to the era of this mosque from the obvious
ividenoe of the inscription over the main archway,
'here it is very plainly stated to have been built by
Shah JahAn in the year 10.'j3 H, (A.D. 1644), and f
have taken five years to complete, The date is all

The Fort 7

given in figures at the left foot of the same archway.
The following are the chief dimenjsions of the mosque : —
Length of Jamma Musjid ... 130 feet.
Breadth ... ... ... 100 „

Height of plinth ... • ... 11 „

The mosque was built in honour of the Princess
Juhanura, whose modest epitaph at Delhi has often been
noticed by travellers. She is also famous for her devo-
tion to her father, whose captivity she shared when he
was deposed by Aurangzeb.

The walls of the fort are nearly 70 feet high, and
about a mile anda-half in circuit ; but it is understood
that their strength is more apparent than real, and that
the stone is little more than veneer over banks of sand
and rubble. The outer enceinte is probably a later
work, by Shah Jahdn.

The fort, though not so substantial as it looks, nor
built after the rules of modern science, is in a command-
ing position, overlooking the city and the river. In
the troubles of 1857 it was used as a place of refuge
for the Christian population, and was occupied by about
five thousand combatants and non-combatants. Almost
every nook that could give shelter from sun and rain
was utilised, and the number painted on the outside of
each quarter corresponded to a Directory which was
prepared for the purpose.

The word-painting of Bayard Taylor will supply a
good general description of the approach to Akbar's
Palace :

"Crossing by a drawbridge over the deep moat which
surrounds the fort, we passed through a massive gateway
— The Delhi Gate — and up a paved ascent to the inner
entrance, which shows considerable taste. It consists
of two octagonal towers of red sandstone, inlaid with
ornamental designs in white marble. The passage be-
tween them is covered by two domes, which seem to rise
from accretions of prismatic stalactites as in the domes
pf tb^ Moorish Albambra. This elegant ^tt«i.V,VQ^«^«t^

Handbook to Agra,

instead of opening upon, the courts of the pa]aoe^
"lers you into the waste of barren inroads covered with
I -withered grass. But over the blank red walla in front
I you see three marble domes glittering in the sunshine
F. like new-fallen snow, and still further the golden pin-
I -uncles of Akbar'a Fnlace ; and these objects hint that
' .your dream of tlie magnificence of the Great Moghul
will not be entirely dispelled."

The inner gateway thus described is the Ilathi Pol, op'd
Elephant Gate, over or in front of which are suppose^;!
to have stood the Btatnes colled " Jainial and Fatlia," toV
he found described in the Ilandhooh to Delhi, App.
In t)ie entrance, at the foot of the range, will be found^
an outer doorway with portcullis and drawbridge ; i
small guard-room to the right of which is on inscriptiott^
. almost obliterated. It ia to a similar purport to thafil
-in the Bolund Ilarwaza ot Fattehpur-Sikri and com-f
' memorates the return of the Emperor Akbar from his laatn
campaign. Benoath is another of the same date a
later one on the Black Throne commemorating JahJingir's

Mr. Taylor then conducts his reader to the Dewan-
i-Am, or Public Audience Hall, which in his time woa
used aa an armoury, ancient and modern ; the contents,
however, have been since removed to Allahabad. From
the inscription preserved by tradition, it appears that
this building was not completed till 1094 H., the 3rth
year of Aurangzeb's reign. This building was once
much defaced by the Department of Public Works, in
the no doubt necessary process of turning it to modern
purposes. But it has now been moat correctly and
tautefully restored under the auspices of Sir John
Strachey, who was in 1876 the ruler of the Nortli-West-
em Provinces. It was used for the entertainment of
itinguishcd party assembled to do honour to the
visit of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales in
January 1876, and the effect produced by itfl chaste
^nd spacious appearance h'glited by chandeliers wiltj

PLAN OF THE PALACES.

S.CSuOw* Galm* loHtjOia.'RaJt.ax- ■

The Palace, 9

never be forgotten by those who had the fortune to be
present.

It was the public hall or court-reception-and-business-
place of the palace, both much smaller than might be
expected from such emperors as the Moghuls, and far
inferior in grandeur to Westminster Hall, being less in
all dimensions excepting the relative width. The in-
terior dimensions are 192 feet by 64, and the roof is
supported by colonnades which produce an effect strange
to European eyes.

This forms the front of the palace. The vast court
on which it opens was the Carrousel, or Tilt-Yard. In
the cloisters on three of its sides the general public sate ;
here the Ahdis, or Exempts of the guard, paraded in
full panoply ; while the led horses, elephants and fight-
ing animals were exhibited to the emperor and his
nobles as they sate in the open hall. The hall was
protected from profane contact by a red rail, admission
within which is recorded by Captain Hawkins (Cir.
1613) as a proud privilege. The monarch sat on his
throne, raised — as we still see it — on an estrade sur-
rounded with marble inlay. At the foot of this alcove,
on which this throne was placed, is a slab of marble, and
here, according to tradition, Akbar took his stand in
administering justice. But it is as well to bear in mind
that the thrones and inlaid walls about them cannot be
carried back earlier than the reign of Aurangzeb, when
the present hall was built.

Passing to right and left are grated passages which
admitted the ladies to view the proceedings — durbars,
receptions, and trials — which took place within the hall.
At the back of the throne a door admitted the emperor
and his confidential adherents into the Machhi Bhawan
leading to the more private precincts of the palace.
Availing ourselves of the same access we come on what
reminded Mr. Bayard Taylor of the Alhambra, and also
of ** a Palace of Fairies."

The palace is indeed interesting and beautiful — Jr^t^r-

oft
I c om

Handbook to Agra.

Iting as a monument of the domestic life of the port,
id beautiful as a specimen of pure tlomestia Saraoenio
But it must not be supposed that it all belongs to
time of Akbar, its founder. On tlie contrary, very
;le of the interior dates from that monarch's reign.
'hatever may do so is probably confined to the small
lUp of sandstone buildinjrs about the disused water
^ate and cannot (as Mr. Taylor seems to suppose) be
made to comprehend the email quadrangle to the north
of the Dewan Xhns, south of which is the Anguri fiagh
composed of marble pavilions with gilded roofs in the
'■l^Ie of the Delhi Palace, and built by Shah Jahj
' re New Delhi. It is therefore an <

Taylor does, that "nopurtof Ak bar's Palace
I utterly destroyed," since it is probable that
of it must have been deliberately removed by
own son and grandson. Tt is apparent from Finob^
description that the Afn&kan was always where it is now ,
but the account of the fait of Adham Khan {A, D,
1563) shows that all the localities must have been oltered
since Aklmr's time as they cannot now be identified.

"The Palace at Agra," says Fergussi
even more interesting than tliat of Delhi, being wholl
of the best age. In the centre of it ia a great
500 faet by 370, surrounded by arcades, and approach)
A the opposite ends through a succession of beautifi

lurts opening into one another on one side

the Dewan-i-Khas [Am], 208 feet by 76, supported by

pft© ranges of arcades Behind ai-e two

iftllep courts, the one containing the Dewan-i-Am

private hall of audience, the other the harem.

■The greatest care was lavished on this court,

■hich measures 170 feet by 23.5, Three aides are

icupied by the residences of the ladies, not remarkable

their size, nor in their present state, for ai'chitectural

^ lUty, but the fourth, overhanging the river, is occupied

'by thi*e white pavilions of singular elegance A«

;'^ must Moorish palaces the baths on one side of t))uh

The Palaee. 1 1

court were the most elaborately and elegantly decorated

apartments the walls and roofs still show* the

elegance with which they were adorned." The follow-
ing is Tavernier's description of a visit he paid to the
palace in the early part of this reign (A. D. 1666) — de-
scriptive of the Machhi Bhawan and Dewan Khas, as we
now see them, nearly :

" Shah Jahdn had undertaken to cover with silver all
the vault of a great gallery which is to the right ; and
a Frenchman named Augustin de Bordeaux was to do
the work. But the Great Moghul seeing that in his
state he had none who was more capable to send to
Goa for some negotiation with the Portuguese, the work
was not done ; for those who dretided the intellect of
Augustin poisoned him on his return to Cochin. This
gallery is coloured with foliage of gold and azure, and
the floor is covered with a carpet. There are doors
below which lead into small pquare chambers. The
three other sides of the court are all open with nothing
but a slight balustrade. On the river side is a project-
ing Belvedere, where the king sits to see his yachts, and
to have his elephants fought. Shah Jahan had meant
to have the verandah of the gallery covered with a
trellis of rubies and emeralds to imitate green grapes

and those beginning to turn red, but the design

proving too expensive remained incomplete."

The Dewan Khas, or Hall of Select Audience of
Agra, is a small but beautiful building, consisting of two
halls, not so large as those at Delhi and more Hindu
in style but not otherwise dififerent in decoration. The
following are the chief dimensions : —

Length 64 feet 9 inches, breadth 34 feet, height 22.

Tlie chronogram gives 1046 A. H. (1637 A. D.) To
the river side is an open terrace on which are two open-
air thrones ; one of white marble, the other of black
slate with a long fissure said to have been produced
when the throne of the Moghul was profaned by a Jat
usurper. The tradition about the fissure 1^ ws ^>^^^f^'^

Bandhook to Agra.

I to the temporary occupation of Agra by Jowahir Sing,
} Bajah of Bhurtpoor, who i-eaitled there for a. short time
\ In 1765, after hia father Suruj Mull had been nil
[ jbattie with Najib-ud-Daulah (vide Keene'a M\ighul Em-
\ pvea, Bk. II., Chap. 3), and who was shortly afterwards
I .usuesinated in the palace. The chronogt
T Black Throne is 1011 H. (1603 A. D.), and the object
I iO( tlie principal inacription probably was to commemo-
L.'ta.te the recognition of Sulim, afterwards the Emperor
l^ah&ngfr, as heir-apparent. Mr. Beale, a local anti-
quary, was of opinion thai this atone was brought from
Allahabad in A. D. 1605, and that its inscnption refers,
not to Jah^ngfr's recognition by his father, but to his
usurpation at that city a few inonthH earlier. But this
is all conjecture. The fact is that the Black Thi
, bas two diatinat insai-iptiona — the one antecedent \x»
[■ Jahdnglr's accession, io which lie is aptiki
~ "'di, the heir;" the other, a few years later, where hs\
ia mentioned as empRrar.

The nest court contains a marble-pavementconstroiot-.
ed for the game of Pachiai, a, kind of Eastern back<"
gammon or trictrac.

Below the Dewan Khna and on one aide of the Courb'
I of the Pachiai Boaid, is t!ie Saman Burj, or"Ja».
e-Tower," the Boudoir of the Chief Sulti
beautiful specimen of carved and inlaid marble, receni
ly restored by order of Lord Northbrook and hii
decessor.

" The Khas Mahal is a small drawing-room of whi
marble, on the eastward commandin;^
river, and the Taj, with b. row of cuaped arches to tl
west, looking out on the fountains, and parterres of th
JLnguri Bagh. The niches and groiningsof the walls
and ceiling were once richly decorated in gold and
' colours, a small specimen of which lias recently been
, restored."

Next follows the Atiguri Bagh, and it is here that,
(lie work of Akbar has been supposed to he traceab!

fhePaiaee. 13

But if these three aides were built by Akbar, they were
probably much altered by Shah Jabin to bring them
into harmony with hia new works on the river front.
The effect of the square is at present poor. It consists,
OH above said, of the three aides of the atnall court of
the zenana ; and it was in these that the British olticers
and their families were cbieSy accommodated during
the terrible summer of 1857. Here, too, the Lieute-
nant-Governor, the Hon'bJo John Russell Colvia, sank
under the weight of care and sicknesa, and his tomb is
hard by in the courtyard of the Dewan-i-Am.

" The substructures of the palace are of red sandstone,
but nearly the whole of its corridors, chambers, and
pavilion are of white marble, wrought with the most
exquisite elaboration of ornament. The pavilions over-
hanging the river are inlaid, witbtn and without, in
the rich style of Florentine mosaic. They are pre-
cious caskets of marble, glittering all over with jasper,
agate, cornelian, bloodstone, and lapislazuli, and top-
ped with golden domes. Balustrades of marble wrought
in open patterns of such rich design that they resem-
ble fringes of lace when seen from below, extend
along the edge of the battlements. The Jumna washes
the walls seventy feet below, and from the balconies
attached to the zenana, or women's apartments, there are
beautiful views of the gardens and palm gi'oves on the
opposite bank, and that wonder of India, the Taj, shin-
ing like a palace of ivory and crystal about a mile down
the stream.

"The most curious part of the palace is the Shisb
Mahal, or Palace of Gloss, which is an oriental bath,
the chambers an<l passages whereof are adorned with
thousands of small mirrors, disposed in the most intri-
cate designs." — {Bayard Taylor.)

The ajMirtmpnta which were the actual t|uarters of
Bhah Jahan, and which now contain the Museum of
the Archreologicaj Society of Agra, are also noticeable
for containing the notorious gates of the ^Uftvtao^vya.'^

I pro

tlie d
^^^■9 HI

^^^K no

Mmidhook to Agra.

proclamatioa, ard so-called of Bomnath. Mr. Fergtut-

arguoa with apparent truth that tliese are in reality

the donrs of Mahmud's sepulchre at Ghuzni, and never

19 near to Soinaath as they are now. This curious

itftDCB of a myth without foundation, aad capable

Lrently of being dispelled by the simplest evidence,

sily to be paralleled among the mistakes of

ttory. The plain truth that the gates are not of san-^H
dal wood, and at least the framework oE Himalayax
cedar, covered with Cufic inscriptions, should have be^
enough to suggest suspicion to any one possesaec"
smallest pretensions to scientific observation.'*
F These celebrated doors are about twelve feet high b_
^ne in breadth, and are set in a carved frame that
stands about five feet higher. They have a great num
her of square plu'jues about eight inches square let iu
all over their tiurface, some of which at least appear b
be of different wood from the rest.

There is a large red atone building, the Jahangir-I-
Mahal, to the sooth of this palace, with a fine two-
storied facade, and relieving lines of white marble,
wliich bears the name of the son and immediate sue- ,
of Akbar, the Emperor Jah^ngir, whose tomb*

at I^hore. The two inner courts of this buildin^fl

le largest of which is 70 feet square, are (if masaivfi
style, in red stone, with boldly carved Hindu bracket^
that once supported sunshades in front of the uppef
Htoi'eys. Under these runs a moulding of lotuf "

I for on orguuival
r. W. SimiisoQ, On UiB other hand,
liadiiiittad thnt some at tha wood is not deal at cedar, hut
B roMiiuum bo the orib-iiml substBucojoriulded '
rtain. forgusHin aiid Binipeon art
In ; and I know not to wlicim iipiiesl Ilea froii- _
bniiu. Tba Rev. W. Tribo has dociphered the Cufie
IliruiDuworli, uud Hods it to Le u triUute of pnuw '
— . .. .., .,* r

The Patac6i 15

(conventionalised), and each flower is supported on
either side by a pair of birds of different kinds. The
building is remarkable for the general avoidance of
arches. Between the two main courts will be found a
handsome entry supported upon pillars of a shape
beautiful in itself and singular at Agra.

On the roof of this building are a number of cisterns
into which the water of the Jumna was raised by a
system of lifts of which the traces still remain. On the
sides of these cisterns are the mouths of several copper-
pipes by which the water was distributed to the various
parts of the palace of which the respective names are
engraved on medallions surmounting each pipe. On
the same roof are two pavilions of massive form and
elaborate ornamentation : one has been hopelessly
spoiled by being converted into a residence for a war-
rant officer ; the other is perfect. The halls on the
ground floor are worthy of examination, especially that
on the left of the main court as you enter. As Fergus-
son remarks {Hist, ArchiL, IL^ 697), "it is singularly
elegant in detail; and, having escaped the fate of so
many of the palaces of India, time has only softened,
without destroying the beauty of its features." The
stones were once covered (on the interiors and ceilings)
with plaster exquisitely painted, but nearly all has now
peeled off. The river-face is ornamented with carvings
of elephants in the same red sandstone. The Dewan
Khas and neighbouring buildings are recorded by Sir
W. Sleeman to have sufi'ered from the vandalism of
two British rulers, — the latter of whom, Lord W. Ben-
tinck, sold by auction a quantity of inlaid marble from
this part of the palace. Very different is the spirit
shown by the late Lord Mayo and the late Viceroy Lord
Northbrook, who sanctioned a considerable outlay for
the repair of what is left. Having been consulted as
to these repairs, the present writer may be permitted to
add that no "restoration,'* in the suspicious sense of
that word, has been attempted ; nothing beyond «i.tAV

l/midliook to Ayrd,

ping and I'emovmg aUemtious and putting bhe buildiDlJI
as. far aa possible, into their original state, or protectii^
them from dilapidation.

Turning back in a north-west direction through
palace of Shah Jali4n, we can proceed from the Maohl4
Bhawaii to a small mosque formerly appropriated to tb^
Viae of the inmates of the palace. Between are thel
bronze gates from Chittur and some good stone-work.
Here is a gate leading into the court-yard that fronts the
palace, surmounted by a covered gallery for the ladies
of the imperial zenana. At the right hand is a gap in
the wall of the great court-yard leading to the foot of ■
staircase, leading laterally to the gateway of the prii
cipal mosque of the fort, the Moti Musjid.

The general notion of Shah Jahan's Mosque may t
gathered from Mr. Taylor's enthusiastic language :

"This is the Moti Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, as H
is poetically and justly termed. It is, iu truth, the \
of all mosques of small dimension, but absolutely peiv
feet in stylo and proportion. It is lifted on a lofty
sandstone platform, and from without nothing oan be
seen but its three domes of white marble and gilded
spires. In all distant views of the fort these domes are
seen like silvery hubbies which have rested a moment
on its walls, and which the next breeze will sweep away.
Ascending a long flight of steps, a heavy door i
opened for me, and I stood in the court-yard of the .
mosque on its eastern side, and the pure blue of the J
sky over-head. The three domes crown a corridor open .1
towards the court, and divided into thi'ee aisles by a 1
triple row of the most exquisitely proportioned Sarace-
nic arches. The Moti Musjid can be compared to no J
other edifice that T have ever seen. To my eye it ia-J
absolutely perfect. While its architecture is the purest J
Saracenic, which some suppose cannot exist without c
nament, it has the severe simplicity of Doric art.
has in foot nothing which can pixiperly be called orn
ment. It is a sanctuary so pure and stainles.^ revealii

I BO exa

Th". Moti Mugjid. 17

exalted a Bpit'ib of worship, that I felt humbled, as a.
Christian, to think that onr noble religion has never in-
spired its architects to surpass this temple to God and
Mahomed." Much of this enthusiasm is deserved,
But it is not true that the mosque is perfect in style ; it
ia indeed only the beginning of the decadence like its
contemporary the great Mosque of Shall Jahanabad.
The lines are stiff and unaspiring. "Its beauty," says
Ferijusson, " resides in its court-yard, which is wholly
of white marble from the pavement to the summit of the
domes . , . it ia . . . less ornamented than any other
building of the same pretensions." The general design
is architecturally feeble, but the pure Ught and shade of
the material gives the buildings a apii-itual air. There
ia perhaps nothing to which this mosque can !» more
aptly compared than to the Evening of Wordsworth's
sonnet — " quiet as a nun breathless with adoration,"
And at certain angles it has its complications and a mys-
tery of perspective not to be found at the Taj. This
arises from its having 24 engrailed arches and groined
vaults which intersect each other very gracefully when
looked at from the outer corners. At each end there
are marble screens of floriated tracery, beautiful in them-
selves, though perhaps somewhat out of harmony with
the. generally unadorned nature of the building. The
nun should not wear a collar of point-laoe. The mosque
occupies a length of 142 feet by a depth of 56, the
front court being about 100 more from mosquo to gate-
way, It is on the very crown of the fortified plateau,
and rises far above the parapets so as to be a conspicu-
ous object from a distance. It b truly wonderful that
it has so long escaped the shocks of war and weather,
llnring the occupation of the fort by British refugees in
1867, the Moti Musjid was used as a hospital, but it is
now scrupulously respected.

The inscription over the front of the Moti Musjid
I that it was built by Shah Jahan in 1063 H. (1654).
front of the A'Aus Mahal is a little stair witk ■a.

■tAowg t

Handbook to Agra.

door leading by it down into n labyrinth of undergi-ound
buildings probably intended aa a retreat in the aumnier,
andameanaof passing to the baoli, or well-house, in
the south-east angle of the fort now used aa military
cells. These call for no particular remark, except in re-
gard to the above-mentioned baUi, or well-house, which
occupies the south-east corner, and which communicate
with the Khai ffaveli by a subterranean passage. The
object of thia doubtless waa that in the heats of sum-
mer, the Emperor and his chosen, companions might
have the means of changing air and scene without expo-
sure to the glare and hot wind that raged above. De*
scending at early morning, and followed by attendants
1 with fruit and music, the royal party could wander about
the labyrinths thnt honey-comb the fort in this direction,
and whose windows looking on the river may be observ-
ed at the base of the Palace of Jaliingir. Arriving at
the baoli they could seat themselves on cushions in the
'chambers that surrounded the water of the well, and
idle away tho sultry hours in the manner so fondly dwelt
on by Persian poets,*

The glories of the Agra Palace must have been of
short duration. Jah^nglr, son and successor of the
founder, lived and died, chiefly in northern latitudea,
and in 1639, Shah Jahdn, the next emperor, began the
palace of New Delhi, where he thenceforth principally
resided until 1658, when he was dep'wod by his son
Alumgir (known to Europeans by hia title of Aurangzeb)
and placed in confinement at Agra, where he remained
until his death in December 16G6. In Aurangsteb's
_time the fort became merely the citadel of a provincial
town, and the reaidence of a Moghul governor, till it
was occupied by the Bhurtpoor Jats about a century
later. In I7S8 it was recovered by imperialiata under
Mahdajee Sindhia, and held by the Mahratta troops in

"SUir" and tlio dnto IStU

nietory of Palace, 19

the name of the emperor till the end of 1803. Shortly
after the Franco-Mahratta army had been defeated at
Delhi, General Lake invested the fort ; and the Mahratta
troops, who had at first risen against their European
chiefs, finally availed themselves of the good offices of
the Governor, Colonel Sutherland, and capitulated.
The marks of Lake's cannon balls are still shown in the
marble screen work of Shah Jahan's Palace. It is, how-
ever, pretty certain that this is another mistake, and that
these are the traces of some earlier bombardment. The
late Mr. Wright, who came to Agra with horses for
Hessing* in 1800, pointed out Lake's batteries on the
Taj side ; and it is known, that his army entered the
fort by the Umur Sing Gate. This fine gateway (which
was not mentioned by Finch) was probably added by
Shah Jahdn, when the rest of the outworks were added
(sup,, p. 7), and the chief, after whom it is named, is
known to have been cut down in that emperor's durbar
in A. D. 1644. Whatever was the occasion of the
building, it is very elegant ; and when adorned with
glazed tiles in bright enamel must have presented a very
striking appearance. In this gateway is the prison for
British officers, fortunately not often used. Outside,
and to the right of the outer gate, the head of a buried
horse in red sandstone will be observed on the glacis.
Nothing is known accurately of this sculpture or of a
similar one, wholly exposed, to the left of the road to
Sikandra. It has been suggested by Mr. Benson that
these two statutes record the fate of the horse ridden by
Salim Shah Sur, when he ran his fox to Badalgarh.
Between the deposition and death of Shah Jahan in
1666 (the date of the Fire of London) the fort had been
the scene of many military and political events of minor
importance, of which a summary will be found with
their respective dates at the end of the volume.

* Vide 8up,, p. 3.

Sandhook to Agra.

Besides the Delhi and the Umui' Singh Gates
was a third, towards the river, now disuBed and blocki
up. PincL, the maciner, who visited Agra in the tan
of JahiLtigfr, speaks of a fourth gate — the Darsani Da
icoza — in front of which executions and beast-iigh
used to take place every Tuesday ; but it was the Bamai,'

The portrait statues of the defenders of Chittur whifl
Bemier saw at Deibi were originally set up iji fi
or on the top of one of the interior gates, as ruentioQ
in. p. 8. The remains of the statues are believed to bn
been found at Delhi in 1863, where one elephant h
been restored but misdescribed.

Before leaving this part of Agra, it will be well
drive along the strand road by the river-front of t
fort and observe its situation. Professor Blochmai
in hu notes on the Ain (p. 380) records that it waa raj
ed here on the site of an older Pathan Castle bj Quasi)
Khan, Akbars Mir Bahar or " First Ijord of the Adm
rally," the old fort having become dilapidated, first i
an earthquake in 911, and afterwards by an exploait
-which happened in 962 (temp. Humayan).

It is believed that the actual founder of the fort w
Snlim Shah, son of Sher Shah, who held power dnrii
the interregnum of Humayun (A.D. 1545-S3), and th
may account for Mr. Fergusson'a opinion that there w.
a palace of Sher Shab's in the fort. It \s not knoii
that any fragment of the older buildings still remai
that mentioned by Fergusson as having survived d
British demolitions being considered by the natives
having formed the Tiaubatkhana, or drum -stand
Akbar's Palace, and being entirely in the style of th
monarch's time. Sulim's Fort was called Badalgai
and is generally stated to have been entirely demolmhl
by Akbar in founding the existing fort.

The story told by native historians is that Sulim yn
out hunting and had loosed a leopard {ckitah) upon

k * Viii Qandboob to Delhi, App. A.

The Fort. 21

fox whicli he was following on horaebauk along the river-
shore. When he got near to the site of the present
Umur Sing Gate, he saw that the fox had recovered wind
nnd escaped. He immediately ca,lled out that the air
of that place must be very good, and he would build
there a residence. It was accordingly built, and oalled
Badalgarh. In Bernier's time this part of the atrand
was lined by the villoa of the nobility. " Kings
have already resided a long while, viz., since Atdmr
who cause it to be built, and called it after his name
Akbar-abad; it is of greater extent than Delhi, and
hath more of those fine houses of the orwaka and rajahs,
and more of the fair £arvan.sarhs, as also more of those
pretty houses of atone and brick belonging to parti-
cular persons ; besides that it bath two famous tombs,
of which I shall apeak hereafter. But then it hath
these disadvantages, that it wants walla ; that having
been built altogether by one design, it hath not those
fair and large streets of uniform buildings as Delhi ;
and that, excepting four or five of those principal streets
of merchiinta, which are very long and well enough
built, nil the rest, for the most part, is nothing but a
number of little streets, straight without proportion,
and nothing but windings and turnings, which causes
strange confusions when the court is there, I see no
other difference between Agra and Delhi than that I
have been just now speaking of; except it be that Agra
hath more of a country town than Delhi, especially
when we look upon it from a higher place. But 'tis
not such a country aspect as disgracetb it, but a very
agreeable and divertising one : for, there being betwixt
the houses of omrahs, rajahs, and others, store of big
green trees mixt, every one having been curious to
plant tbera in his garden and in his court for shade ;
Bod besides, those high housat of the banians, or hea-
then merchants, appearing here and there between those
trees, as reliques of old castles of forests; all that
oauseth within the town s-ery pleasing sights atid. ^-i-

1 spec

Handbook to Agra.

ipecially in n dry and hob country, whei
I seem to desire nothing but verdure a

shade.
^^^_ In this direction all tritceR of tliis m
^^^Httng since disappeared, owing to the
^^^^Hrer, The remains of one house alone
^^^^H preservation ; it beai-s traditionally the
^^^l^han, a Turkish General of Artillery.

THE TAJ.

By the river strand is a road made ia
relief opemtioiia of 1838 by which the visitor rencliefi tl
Taj Mahal. On the way he pRsees the remains
several villas once occupied by the nobles of th<
Moghul Court, but now fallen into undistinguishal
rains with the abovenamed exception. The followii
remarks from Fergusson may be taken ns a general in>
troduotion to this building, the reader being referred
to the full text for a more complete development of the
siibject. The Tartars, we are told, from whom the
Indian Moghols are descended, "built their sepulchres
such a character as to serve for places of enjoyment
themselves and friends during their lifetime . . .
The usual proems is for the king or noble who intenc
to provide himself a tomb to enclose a garden outaii
the city walls, and in the centre uf this he erects

building crowned by a dome on a lofty squt

terrace . . Dui-ing the life of the founder the central
building is culled a bara durri, and is used as a place
of recreation and feasting by himself and his frienda
At his death its destination is changed, the founder's
remains are interred beneath the central dome
When once used as a place of burial, the vaults
again resound witli festive mirth."

The historical account of the person in whose hononi
.Jhe Taj was built does not altogether illustrate thi

Ida '
er's

onr^l

thi^

The Taj. 23

description, as she appears to have died before the
building had been begun. In all probability, however,
the garden had been already enclosed and was a
favourite retreat of the deceased in her lifetime. A
similar garden (to be hereafter noticed) still exists on
the opposite bank about three miles higher up the
stream.

Arjumand Banu Begum, called MurrUaz-i-MaM, or
"Exalted One of the Palace," was not related to her
husband the Emperor Shah Jahan, further than that
she was the niece of his stepmother. Her father was
the minister, Asaf Khan, brother of the celebrated Nur
Jahan, wife of the previous Emperor Jahdngir, in whose
time he (Asaf) played many parts, but mostly as catspaw
to his able and ambitious sister. Their father, again,
was Mirza Ghaias, an adventurer from Teheran in Persia,
who attained high place during his daughter\s tenure of
power, and was honoured by Jahangir with the title of
Itmad-ud-Daulahy and will be again mentioned in con-
nection with his tomb already referred to. Married to
Bhah Jahan (then heir-apparent) about 1615, she bore
him seven children, and died in childbed of the eighth,
about 1630, at Burhanpur, whither she had accom-
panied her husband on his campaign in the Deccan
against Khan Jahan Tjodi. Her body was carried to
the metropolis, and laid in a spot in the garden, still
pointed out, close by the mosque, until the mausoleum
was ready for her reception.

We learn from Father Manrique (a Spanish monk of
the Augustinian Order, who was at Agra in 1641) that
the plans and estimates were prepared by a Venetian,
hy name Geronimo Verroneo. The emperor ordered
him to estimate for three krors of rupees. Verrpneo
died at Lahore before Manrique's arrival, and long
before the work was completed. The work is then
believed to have been made over to a Byzantine Turk.
But Austin, the French artist, was certainly consulted
as to the inlay before it was completed. The collection

Handbook la Agra.

of the materials is to hnve occupied the next seventeei
years ; but it is not necesaary to suppose that no built'
ing was in progress all this time. Ari Jonga, vita Irrevis
and the emperor, who had passed his five and thirtieth^
year at the commencement of the work, is not likely to
have loitered so much in its completion. The last in-
scription, moreover, yields 1648. The following de-
scription of the various dates seem to show the order i
which the various parts of the building were completed.

On the outside of the west arch facing the mosque !(
the date A. H. 10-^6, 10th year of Shah Juhan.

At the end of the in.icription on the left hand sid<
of the entrance (within) is the date A. H. 1048.

On the front gateway is the date A. H. 1057 (A.
16i8) marking the completion of the building. The
acriptions on all these arches are in the Toghra chai
ter, taken frora Suraa of the Koran, appropriate
mourning and spiritual hope. On the front of the i
trajice is a passage ending with an invitation to the
pure of heart to enter the Garden of Paradise.

On the tomb of his wife the emperor has caused to
be inscribed sentences in her praise in tlie usual Persian
style. There ia also an inscription recording her name
(Arjumand Banu Begum) together with the date of her
death.

On his own tomb the date of the death of Shah Jahan
is given together with a recital of his titles, among which
is the curious one of SahH-i-Qirdn '2nd. In a recent
Dictionary lithographed at Lucknow, I find it explained
that Timur (Tamerlane) was also a Ijahib Qiran ; and
that he was so called because there whs at the time of
his birth a Qiran or conjunction of Jupiterand Venua.
Bichardsoa, in his Dictionary, under the word Qirdn,
says, it stands for nearness; but that when Jupiter and
Venus are in the same house, their conjunction is called
Qirdn-i-aa' a dayn. From this it would seem that Shah

^K 'See rareraier's recgrd, sujn'u, f>. Wi

The Taj. 25

Jafa^n was the first descendant of Timur, who was born
under tlia same stars as his ancestor. The omen did
not do him much good.

The white marble that forms the facing of the build-
ing came doubtless from Makaana, near Jaipur, and the
red sandstone from Fattehpur-Sikri ; the jewels are
partly Indian and partly from Persia and other trans*
Himalayan regions.

The native annalist is very copious on the names of
the artistfi who worked under tho Effendi, and the cost
of the various articles; hut the tatter is a point on which
we possess scant means of comparison, as we are
ignorant of the purchasing power of money at the time,
and of the extent to which goods and labour were pur-
veyed without any sort of payment. [Shah Jahin'a
memoirs state that the masons received thirty lakhs of
rupees ; and no doubt this was the item of wages charged
in the accounts.] And as for the former it would not
posHesB much interest for us if we were sure that the
names of a number of oriental masons and jewellers
were given correctly, unless indeed there wei-e found an
European name among them, which is not the case.
Much fruitless discussion has been waged on this subject ;
the following considerations alone are likely to be of use
to the general reader. The notion that the Taj was
designed by Italians is confirmed by Manrique. But
nothing can he less Italian than the general conception
of the building with its simple and Rven stiff contour ;
nothing ever more in harmony with the stylo of Eastern
feeling which regards a white muslin tunic and an
aigrette of diamonds as full dress for an emperor. The
tomb of Humiyun (A.D. 1556) seems to have been
the chief model of the elevation. It is otherwise how-
ever with the inlaid work, or Indian jneirrt dura as I
propose to call it ; though spociniens of this art occur
here and there in earlier buildings, yet we ha-st o^-^ ^B>
compare the Taj piura dv.ra -with that ol tina ■^'aK& «=,
of Imid-ud-Dauhh'a tomb (to go bacV ao a^xXv^'t'^ ^.-os

Handbook to Agra.

conviaoed at once that some new element had enter-
ed into the design and practice. loatead of the geo-
metric patterns of the earlier buildings, flowers are now
"ally introduced, and are in numerous ca-iea treated with

attempt at realism which aavours rather of Europe

iD of the East. It is urged that these flowers lack
^ ipective, but this ia not always the case ; and there
are instances of shaded petals and of reversed leaf-ends
which exceed the limits of the true conventional. When.
veaddto this the recollection that this was the, era that
iimnediately followed that of the Medicean Chapel at
Florence — I believe the earliest modern Florentine work
JB pielra dura dates from about 1570 A. D., and that
at least one foreign artist, Austin de Buixleaux, was
certainly at that time in Shah Jahan's service — it will
be seen how estremely probable it ia that the art of
inlaying did at that time become modified by European
ideas. The portrait of Austin in pietra dura w(w once
to be seen at the hack of the throne in the Dewan-i-
Khas at Shah Jahitii's Palace in the fort of New Delhi,
and he died in India. He is mentioned by Bernierand
Taveruier, and his career closed before Shah Jahdn's
death. The following figures are taken from the Guide
to the Taj:—

"The native account of the cost of the Taj givtm
98,65,426 rupees as having been given by the rajal
and nawabs. And out of the emperor's private treasun
86,09,700 rupees, which would give in £1,846,518-6, (
nearly two millions.* There are said to have h
lUver doors at the entrance of the Taj, which are stato

have cost 1,27,000 rupees and were studdiid '
100 nails, each havinjf a head made of a Sonat r
gates were taken away and melted down by I
when they attacked and sacked Agra."

• Colonel Anilernou, In n ]iii|]cr In the Caleutta Ber,

B coat Lo have been Rs. 4,ll,4e,«2(I. Mnnrique, us

Ml, pnts the eslimate nt three hrurH; it must haye been utiUKf

•I eatimates il it was not escevdai m the eni\.

The Taj. i1

Pergusson makes the following just remarks on the
taste that has been everywhere shown in the choice of
this ornamentation: — "It is lavishly bestowed on the
tombs themselves, and the screen that surrounds them,
though sparingly introduced on the mosque that forms
one wing of the Taj and on the fountains and surround-
ing buildings. The judgment, indeed, with which this
style of ornament is apportioned to the various parts is
almost as remarkable as the ornament itself."

The labour was all forced, and very little payment
made in cash to the 20,000 workmen who were said to
have been employed for 17 j^ears in the construction of
this wonderful pile ; an allowance of corn was daily
given them, but even this was carefully curtailed by the
rapacious officials placed over them. There was great
distress and frightful mortality among them, and the
peasantry around Agra certainly did not worship the
memory of the innocent empress. The poet describes
them to have cried out —

" Have mercy God on our distress,
For we die, too, with the Princess."*

Bayard Taylor's description of the general coup-d^ceil
is so picturesque and at the same time so generally just
that the reader may like to enjoy a portion of it here —

" The Taj stands on the bank of the Jumna, rather
more than a mile to the eastward of the Fort of Agra.
It is approached by a handsome road cut through the
mounds left by the ruins of ancient palaces. Like the
tomb of Akbar it stands in a large garden, inclosed by a
lofty wall of red sandstone, with arched galleries around
the interior, and entered by a superb gateway of sand-
stone, inlaid with ornaments and inscriptions from the
Koran, in white marble. Outside of this grand postal,
however, is a spacious quadrangle of solid masonry, with
an elegant structure, intended as a caravanserai on the

* Guide to Taj, p. 15.

Ilandbooi: to Agra.

opposite side. Whatever may be the visitor's impa-
tience, he cannot help pausing to notice the fine propor^
tions oE these structures, and the rich and massive st^Ie
of their construction. The gate to the garden of
Taj is not ao large as that of Akbar's tomb, but quiti
beautiful in design. Passing under the open demi-vai
whose arch hangs high above you, an avenue of di
Italian cypress appears before you. Down its cent)
sparkles a long row of fountaios, each casting up a single
slender jet. On both sides, the palm, the banyan, and
a feathery bamboo mingle their foliage ; the song of
birds meets your ears, and the odour of roses and lemon
flowers sweetens the air. Down such a vista and over
BDch a foreground rises the Taj."

The rest of Mr. Taylor's description, though very
eloquent, need not be reproduced ; first, because
too vague and enthusiastic ; and nest, because it ia
lutely inaccurate as to many particulars. The truth
that the Taj is not, as an architectural group,
satisfactory. Some adverae criticism will be found
in the Appendix (A., 120). In a later paper, possibly
by the same hand, it is well said that " there is no
mystery, no sense of partial failure, about the Taj. A
tlung of perfect beauty and of absolute finish in every
detail, it might pass for the work of genii, who knew
nought of the weaknesses and ills with which mankind
are beset .... It ia not a great national tem] '
erected by a free and united people ; it
to the whim of an absolute ruler who was free
squander the resources of the state in commemoratii
his personal sorrows or his vanity."

Hence the building has an individuality, a sort
egotism, which takes it out of the category of ordinary"
architectural works. ZofTany's criticism (that "it only
wanted a glass-case ") is not quite correct, because the
most accurate marble models are always ineETective in
showing what it owes to size. Yet there is in the rigid-
/e^ of the outline and the flotneaa (A Oae

tji.

la^H

>'cWa^fl

Thi Taj. 29

iflUung that strikes, at least the European eye with
an air of littleness and of luxury ratlier than with the
effect of a grand constructive group. No beholder
would at first suppose that tlie Taj was higher than the
Kutub at Delhi.

Nevertheless in its symmetry, and above all in its
material and ornamentation, there is a sort of satisfac-
tion which tends to grow upon one the oftener it is
beheld. As a distinguished Russian artist observed to
the writer — "The Taj is like a lovely woman; abuse
it as you please, but the moment you come into its
presence, you submit to its fascinatiio." Admitting
that there is something slight and etHminate in the gene-
ral design, which cannot be altogether obliterated or
atoned for by beauty of decoration, the simile seems just,
and it calls to mind the familiar couplet in The Bape of
the Loek^-

" If to her 9

In Bernier'a time the building seems to have been in
much the same state as now. The following character-
istic extract gives the chief portion of his description ; —

" It is a great and vast dorne of white marble, which
is near the height of that of our Val de Grace in Paris
surrounded with many turrets of the same matter with
stairs in them. Four great arches support the whole
fabrick, three of which are visible; the fourth is closed
in by the wall of a hall, accompanied with a gallery,
where certain Ttmllaha (entertained for that end) do con-
tinually read the Alcoran, with a profound respect to
the honor of Taje-Mehalle. The mould of the arches
is enriched with tables of white marble, wherein are seen
engraven large Arabian characters of black marble,
which is very agreeable to befiold. The interior or eon-
cave part of this dome, and the whole wall from top to
bottom, is covered with white marble ; and thete \% ^sfik
place which is not wrought with ixrti, tmOl V^Mb. tw^ iSa
peculiar beaaty. You see store o? agat, axvA ^i*^ ^*'*^*'

eral

Handbook to Agra.

of atoneB as are employed to enrich the chappol of
great Duke of Florence ; much jasper, and many otheF
kinds of rare and precious stones, set a hundred several
ways, mixed and enchased in the marble that covers ' '
body of the wall. The quarries of white and bl<
marble, that make the Qoor, are likewise set out wit
all imaginable beauty and stateliness.

" Under this dome is n, little chamber inclosing
aepulchre which I have not seen within, it not being
opened but once a year, and that with great ceremony,
not suffering any Chriatinn to enter, for fejir {as th*y
say) of piwfaning the sanctity of the place : but real! '
by what I could learn, because it hath nothing rich
magnificent in it.

"There remains nothing else than to give you
ion to take notice of an ally in the fashion of a terrace,
'enty or twenty-five ordinary paces large, and as many
more high, which is betwixt the dome and the extreui-
"ity of the garden, whence you see below you, at the
foot of it, the River of Geirnia running along, a great
oampaiga of gardens, a part of the town of Agra, the
fortress, and all those foir houses of the omrahs that are
built along the water. There remains i
then to cause to observe this terrasae, which taketh
almost the whole length of one side of the garden,
"len to desire you to judge, whether I had reason
y, that the mauaotBum or tomb of Taje-Mehalle
imething worthy to be admired. For my part, I
lot yet well know whether I am not somewhat infect
till with IiidianisTne : but I most needs say that
believe it ought to be reckoned amongst tbe wonders of
the world, rather than those unshapen masses of the
Egyptian pyramids, which I was weary to see after I had
seen them twice, and in which I find nothing toithi ' '
but pieces of great stones ranged in the form of
one upon another, and wilkin nothing but very litt
.fttt aiid invention."
L Tie screen, it will be obsorved, \s not mei(v%>u^;

the
hod ,

The Taj, 31

and there can be little doubt but that it was added in
Aurangzeb's time, after the body of Shah Jahdn had
been laid by that of his wife and his cenotaph placed by
the side of hers on the upper floor.

Various accounts have been given in explanation of
the foundations still apparent on the opposite bank of
the river. One story is that a noble wished to build
there, but the Government discountenanced the project ;
the emperor observing : " If his building is very good
it will eclipse the Taj ; if it is not, the effect of my
building will be spoiled." So the work was stopped.

One would not think that the engineers of that day
were equal to bridging the river. But the bridge at
Jaunpur shows that this would hardly be just. The
following remarks are from Tavernier who saw the Taj
building —

"I have seen the commencement and the comple-
tion of this great work, which employed twenty thousand
men daily for twenty-two years, a fact from which some
idea of its excessive costliness may be formed. The
scaffolding is held to have cost more than the buildings
for not having [enough] wood they had to make it of
brick, as also the centerings of the vaults. Shah
Jahdn began to make his own sepulchre on the other
side of the river ; but his war with his son interrupted
the design, and Aurangzeb, the present ruler, has not
cared to carry it out."

It must therefore be allowed that there is strong
corroboration of the prevalent tradition which has as-
serted that it was the intention of the emperor to build
his own monument on the opposite bank and to con-
nect the two tombs by a magnificent bridge. But it is
added that his captivity cut short his architectural en-
terprises, 80 that, when he died his remains were interred
close to those of his beloved in the same monument.
"Thus," says Mr. Taylor, "Fate concod^d \a \^^^
what was denied to Vanity."

The more praotiQal Ferguaaou sYiaW g^Vv^ \x.^ VX^^ ^w«t

I de

llaudhonk to Agra.

^^^ cro

details and some measurements. The encloaure ind
ing garden and outer court ia a parallelogram of 1,860
feet by more than 1,000 feet. The outer court, sur-
rounded by arciides and stdorned by four gateways, is an
iblong, occupying in length the whole breadth of the
and ia about 450 feet deep. The pruioipal
kteway leads from this court to the garden, where the
)mb is seen framed in an avenue of dark cypress trees.
■The plinth of white marble ia 18 feet high, and is an
exact square of 313 feet each way. At the four corners
stand four columns or towers, each 137 feet high, and
crowned with a little pavilion. The mausoleum itself
occupies a space of 186 feet square, in the centre of this
larger square, and each of the four corners is cut off
opposite each of the towers. The central dome is 50
feet in diameter by 80 feet in height. On the platform
in front of thejutoah or false mosque is a tracing of the
topmost spine, a gilded spike crowning the central dome
to a height of 30 feet. The interior ia lighted fro
marble-trel Used -screen lights above and below, — {Fen
Uiat. Arckit., II., 693.)

To the above details it may be added that Sin
Jahan himself gives the total height from ground 1
spire top as 107 yards. The gax illdhi, or "yard |
Akbar," is a small fraction loss than 33 inches, and t
would yield 296 feet as stated in the Ouide to the !
The writer also estimates the height of the minnrets j
325 feet. The real heights, for which I am indebted I
Lieutenant (now Major) Boughey, R.E,, are as followax
From garden level to lower platform ... 4 i
„ „ plinth (upper ditto) 32J

„ „ point of archway ... 89

„ „ top of parapet over

ditto 114|

„ „ springing of dome.,. 139 J

„ „ top of ditto (base of

metal pinnacle) ,,. 313J
„ summit oi puvwicVo ^^'i\

c *>

i 6

TAJ

G U N U

THACKER , SPIMK AHD C%

The Taj. 33

From garden level to platform at top of

minarets 137 feet.

„ „ summit of metal pin-

nacle on ditto ... 162 J „

It may here be noted that visitors will be disappointed
with the celebrated echo of this dome if they attempt to
play or sing any complicated melodies or roulades in it.
The echo is so quick that it catches the notes and runs
them into one another, so as to produce a most distress-
ing discord, unless the notes chosen be such as form a
natural harmony. The chord of the seventh produces
a very beautiful effect. It is this that, in the words of
the American traveller, " floats and soars overhead in a
long, delicious undulation, fading away so slowly that
you hear it after it is silent, as you see, or seem to see,
a lark you have been watching after it is swallowed up
in the blue vault of heaven. "

" On the one side of the Taj is a mosque with three
domes of red sandstone,* covered with mosaic of white
marble. Now on the opposite side there is a building
precisely similar, but of no use whatever," except as a
proof of the extreme sense of balance and symmetry
which actuated the whole design. " This building," as
Mr. Bayard Taylor continues, " is marked by the feeling
for proportion which prevailed in these days — and pro-
portion is art. In comparing these masterpieces of
architecture with Moorish remains in Spain, which re-
semble them most nearly, I have been struck with the
singular fact, that while at the central seats of the Mos-
lem empire, art reached but a comparative degree of
development, here and there on the opposite and most
distant frontiers, it attained a rapid and splendid cul-
mination."

The false mosque is as fine as the true. It has been
hitherto appropriated to the use of travellers and parties

* This is a mistake ; the domes are a\\ ol "^iViaXA xaa^^^vivftr— *^^
]MiBement3 of the buiiding only are of red stoiie.

K,, A. B, ^

34 Handbook to Agra,

of pleasure ; and it is this no doubt that has given rise
to the of t-reported story of *' wassail and riot" desecrat-
ing the place of worship of departed kings. Let it be
said, once for all, that this is not, never was, never
could be, a *^ place of worship." It would be certainly
more in character if no festivities had ever disturbed
the repose of a place set aside for solemn memories^
but as long as the natives hold constant fairs in the
enclosure and throw orange-peel and other ddbris about
the whole place, it is perhaps somewhat hypercritical to
object to a few Englishmen refreshing themselves, within
the limits of becoming mirth, in a remote corner used
for no other purpose. It is hardly necessary to say that
the true mosque was never desecrated. This building
is on the left of the Taj, and its mihrah or recess point*
ing towards the Kaaba at once distinguishes it from the
counterbalancing building on the other side It is in a
parterre beneath this mosque that the enclosure i&
shown where the remains of the empress rested while the
Taj was being built. A recent Indian journalist has
well said —

"The sethereal beauty which undoubtedly charac-
terises the group as a whole is entirely due to material
and to colour. The materials and colours are thoroughly
adapted to the climate, and would lose their eflfect in
another atmosphere, or if backed by dull leaden skies.
To my mind the Taj is utterly unsuited for illumination.
To crowd the silent gardens with gaping chattering
crowds, to deck the great doorway and the mosque with
rows of light till they resemble gin-palaces, to fling lime-
light upon the delicate masonry of the mausoleum,
seems to me an act of vandalism. Such things befit a
Crystal Palace, where the whole surroundings are rococo,,
flimsy, artificial, and theatrical ; but they are out of
keeping with a building in which the dead rest, and in
which the stern simplicity of art is the predominant
feature."

Such as the place is, it is appreciated by the people..

Tomb of Itmddrud-Daulah, 35

of the country far and near. As much admired by the
Natives as by Europeans, the Taj and its garden furnish
a proof that, like a touch of nature, an appeal of true art
also can make the whole world kin. On Sundays and
holidays the place is much frequented ; and it is good
to notice the orderly conduct of the crowds that are
collected strolling through the grounds, or treading bare-
foot the gleaming precincts.

In a moment the sun has set, and the concourse has
dispersed as if by magic. Swift falls the sudden evening,
and the mild light of the moon is substituted for the
dusty glare of the past hour. If Melrose should be seen
by moonlight, surely still more is that effect wanting to
complete the beauty of the Taj. The heavy shadows of
the foliage, the deep chiaroscuro of the embayed portals^
the soft curve of the dome, all serve to enhance the
virginal splendour of the material of the cupolas and
minarets till they appear almost transparent. The re-
pose is unbroken except by a light breeze in the tree-
tops; the blue sky is without a cloud; and the rare
genius of the calm building finds its way unchallenged
to the heart.

TOMBS, &G., ACROSS THE RIYER..

Returning towards Agra (City or Civil Lines) along
the strand, a fine view is obtained of the river front of
the palace ; and the visitor may then cross the pontoon
bridge, and turning to the left, he will proceed up the
left bank of the river and shortly reach the Tomb of
Itmad-ud-Daulah. This is the Persian adventurer
from Teheran already mentioned by his name of Ghaias-
ud-Din, as the father of Nur Jahan, and of her brother
called Asaf Khan, whose daughter was Mumtaz Muhul,
the lady of the Taj. He himself was Vazir in the
time of his son-in-law, the Emperor JoXx^w^xi^ ^xA
died at Kangra on the way to Ka&\iixi\c mY^^uV^^-

Handbook to Agra.

I
^

son was appointed to his vacaat oifice by the tj
of Asaf Khi-n.

Profe&sor Bloohmann gives hia character in the folU
ing terms :—

"Gbiaa Beg was a poet. He imitated theold clasai

hich ruling passion showed itself a few hours before

died .... Jahan.::ir praises him for his soctaJ qnalil

ftnd says that his society was better than [exhilarat

drugs]. He was generally lited, had no enemies^ a

was never seen angry He was never idle;

otBcial accounts were always in the greatest order."
far good, but mark the end !] "He liked biibes t
showed much boldness in demanding them." 1
instance of the ruling passion above alluded to is tal
from the memoirs of his royal roaster and son-in<li
When the old man lay dying, the emperor came in a
Nur Jalian asked her father if he recognized ]
Majesty. The dying minister replied by a quotat
from a Persian poet, meaning : —

He bimdelf would surely knuir thoe by tho splendour of tJiy bH

The garden is well kept, and stocked with flowi
shrubs, and cypress trees. The lower hall contaiq
the tomb of the Vazirand his wife, is a parallelograo
marble coarsely inlaid with coloured stones, chioSj
arabesque, with a few large flowers. It stands m
sandstone terrace, 149 feet square and 3*4 feet from
ground. Four hold kjosquea stand at the four conn
and in the centre is a »inial] pavilion of rich pierced-w
covered with an oblong dome topped with two li
pinnacles : here are also cenotaphs, but without inao

The roof of the basement upon which this dt
stands is 69 feet square ; the hall containing the j
tombs is 32 feet 3 inches square, and the inscriptions
the Toghra character are taken from the Koran, Sa
Fattahna and Mohsammli, and (above) from the S
Taitarui-ul-Zazi.

Tomb of Itmddrud'Daulah, 37

The tomb was completed by the Vazir's imperial
daughter in the year 1628.

It is said that the empress at first intended that the
monument she raised to her fath'^r should be of silver,
but she was dissuaded by her architect, who advised her
to use some material which, being less likely to excite
the cupidity of beholders, would have a better chance
of remaining unmolested. Itmdd-ud Daulah died in
A.D. 1622, but the place had perhaps been a garden-
house of his previously. It is believed that the building,
as we now see it, was built by his imperial daughter ; and
it is not only beautiful, but has a special interest as being
the only work of the period known to exist in these
parts. It accords with her character that the empress
at first proposed to build her father's monument of
silver, but was persuaded to adopt a less costly and less
portable material. The emperor was at this time, and
for some years later, involved in serious troubles and a
constant victim to attacks of asthma. He died in 1627,
and the empress losing her connection with public
affairs, had time to devote herself to art and religion.
She enjoyed a stipend nominally equal to £20,000 a
year, and really worth at that time a great deal more.
Besides the tomb of her father at Agra, Nur Jahan built
the fine tombs of her husband and herself, which are
still to be seen at Lahore.*

* The following account of the spot may be perused : — The
emperor's tomb is well known for its size and magnificence, in
which it rivals the similar edifices of Delhi and Agra. It stands in a
lar^e but dilapidated garden, part of the high enclosure wall of
which has been washed away by encroachments of the Ravee. The
tomb of Asaf Khan stands in a similar garden in line with the
emperor's, but separated from it by an immense serai — a solitary
monument of the grand imperial road that marked by kossminars
and public caravanserais, once ran from Delhi to Kotas. The serai
is still splendid with its noble and richly decorated gateways, in
which marble and red sandstone, brought all the way from Agra,
are laviahlv used, but its court is now intersected by railwo.'^
ndings and occupied by material and workaihopa. Ttv« Wcc^o ^V
Aaai Khan is of the ubuaI shape — octagonal, v}\t\i a >ov]^ ^q>\sv^ —
but 18 well known, even at Lahore (where the tile 'wotVl oh wi<ivs^

Ilandbook to Agra

!:„...., ._

^^^ber son. She hod a duugliter by her first husband, '.
^^^Bore no children to Jahdngir. Her daughter's hoaboi
^^"fraa her stepson, Shuliryar, son o£ Jaliingir, by a I"
princeaa. On his father's demise, he attempted to
the throne, but was taken prisoner and put to death )
Shtih Jahan along with other members of the fnuiily.
The next tomb on the riverside is the Chlni-ka-JloK
t as it is not very accessible from the road, the travell
1 do well to leave it for the present. The Jabdaai
J^r Zuliara garden, between the Chini-ka-Rota and F
fagli, is thought to have been a garden of finbar's.
buildings it contains are of the transition style betwei
the 3rd Pathan and 1st Moghul.

We shall conduct the visitor next to the Ram Baj
Whether this name was indicative of a dedicatio
Hindu demi-god Rama, or whether the
tion from a Persian word Aram Bafi (the garden
■ jepoae), is a disputed point among local anCiquftti
~^he first notice that we have of it is as the teniparo
Bsting-place of the body of Emperor Babar, the fouru
' the JHoghul dynasty (so called), who were in realit]
ixed Turkish race descended from Timur the Lams^
[ainerlane. As it is believed that Babar lived in anil
same side of the river opposite the Taj, i
f extremely pmbable that the jovial hero, we ua tc
when he had a mind to be merry, was wont to ffi
fountain with wine and join gaily in open-air revels y>
companions of both sexes. We may imagine this ganj
. having been the scene of some of these Tartar picni
In the later days the Ram Bagb became the joiatu
Jhouse of the Empress Nur Jahan, and was known
r tier other name as the " garden of Nur Afshan."
{SOntinu^d to lie kept up as an orchard and pleasu

^^_ ha^

^Bhot

biiildinn;* to h> common and eicellcnt), for tho beauCifol glnzcKl

The Ram Bagh. 39

ground by all succeeding governments, and it is said
that the pame of Rain Bagh was first conferred upon it
by the Mahratta administration in the last century.
This goes far to discredit the suggested etymology of
Aram Baghy Ram being a favourite hero with the Hindus
whose name was not unlikely to be borrowed by the
Mahrattas in designating a place that they were fond of.
Thei*e is little of interest in the buildings, which consist
of subterranean vaults looking out upon the river, and
two houses that have been modernized and fitted with
glazed doors and furniture. The garden is extensive
and well kept, and the place forms a pleasant retreat for
Europeans during the fierce heats of the Agra summer.

Professor Blochmann informs us {Airi, p. 509) that
Nur Jahan was originally named Mihr-oon-Nissa,
** Darling of the Sex " or " Sun of Women," as the
Professor interprets it. She was born in 984 H., and
must therefore have been 34 when the emperor married
her ; which looks as if her influence over him was not
l)ased upon mere passion . . . The emperor said, ** Before
I married her I never knew what marriage really meant/'
She enjoj^ed the state of a queen-regnant rather than
of a mere consort. She was the especial patroness of
orphan-girls, and is said to have married no less than
500 with portions from her own funds. She possessed,
nmch taste in furniture and entertainments, and de*
signed many new patterns for jewellery.

Taking boat at the foot of the Ram Bagh stairs, a
pleasant little voyage may be had down stream, to the
briflge-of-boats, when a carriage should be in readiness
on the city side — the right bank of the river.

Dropping down with the stream, the visitor will
pass the remains of the Zuhara {1 " Jahanura '') garden
and its dependent wells and pleasure-houses on the left
shore. It will not, however, be worth his while to land
till he reaches the Chini-ka-Roza.

This ruin is quadrangular with the remains of pro-
jecting entrances so large as almost to constitute traa-

Handbook to Affra.

aepts. It IB believed to be the moaument
Khan, a literary adventurer of the 17th century,
was a native of Shiraz, originaDy named Shukrulla, w
came by way of Surat to Burhatipur, where be eatei
the service of JahAngir about the year A. D. 161
He subsequently became deuian (Finaneial Minister)
Shah Jahan, and died at Lahore A.D. 16X9, about tl
time of tlie building of that Emperor's Palace at Ne
Delhi. The tomb is now principally remarkable for t\
beautiful patterns of the plaster coloured like porceliL
' y which — beyond the reach of human hands — it is sti

jeovered, aud from which it dei-ivea its name ,

" Inscriptions from the Koran may still be traot
a parts of the building, bub are rapidly perishin
" e ornamentation is a sorb of coarse enamelling (pr
bably in shellac) on the piaster. The dome is rathi
in tlie old Pathan style tlian in the more rotund sty
that was fashionable at tbe time of its construction.
This was the date of the oommenceiDent of Jahcli
's Mosque — tbe Agra Jamma Mngjid — ^and the bull
. only just coming into fashion. The Ti
[1630-48) was perhaps tbe first conspicuous instance
Mis adoption. Afzul Rhsn was probably an old fashio
ed gentleman who built bis torab in bis lifetime, m
according to the ideas of bis youth. At all events tt
building and the Kula (or Kalian) Musjid are genuin
though late products of tbe Pathan school. So also tl
tomb of Adham Khan near the Kutub at Delhi.

The visitor now returns to Agra by the roads leadii
from the bridge-of-boats, passing by tbe old custom-hous
a Moghul villa, now much defaced by British improvi
ments. Going on through a, suburb, the fi;'st turn to th
right tabes him to the Catholic Mission and Cathedn

I already referred to, in regard to which the remark:
fiernier may here, with propriety, be transcribed :—

I by wh

^^K«oven
^^Komb.
^H^ pa
^Kbheo
I bably

intl
that

CATHOLIC MISSION BDILDINGS.
"la Agra, the Revei^nd Fathers, the Jesuits, have

TAfl Cafhulic Establishment. 41

Church and s, College, where in private they teach the
children of some twenty-five or thirty Christian fftmiliea
that have (I know not how) gathered and settled
themselves there by the charity of those F&thera, the
Christian Doctrine. It was Akbar who (in the time of
the great power of the Portiigyieee in the Indies) called
thenj, and gave them a pension for their subsistence,
permitting tiiem to build churches in the capital cities
of Agra and Lahore, and his son Jehan Guire favored
them yet more. But Chak Jehan, son of Jehan Ghtire,
and father of Aurangeeb, now reigning, took from them
their pension, caused their church at Luhoi'e to be pulled
down, und the greatest part of that in Agra, over-
throwing also the steeple of the Church, wherein that
bell waa that could be heard over all the town.

"These Fathers, the Jesuits, entertained great hopes
of the progress of Christianity in the time of King
Jehan Quire, because of his contempt of the Mohume-
tan law, and the esteem he professed to the Chrvitian,
even giving way to two of his nephews to embrace the
Christian religion, and to a certain Mirza-zitl-EirHain
(that had been bred in the seraglio and was circumcised)
to turn Christian too, under the pretence that he was
bom of Christian parents, and son of the wife of a
rich Armenian which Jehan Gnire had caused to be
brought to him into the seraglio.

" The same Fathers say that this king, to begin in
good earnest to countenance the Christian religion,
designed to put the whole court into the habit of the
fraaqiii, and that after ho had prepared all things for
it, and even dressed liimself in that fashion, he called
to him one of the chief omrahs, asking his opinion of
this dress ; but that this omrah altogether surprised at
it, having answered him every seriously that it was a
very dangerous thing, he thought himself obliged to
change hie miud, and turned all into raillery." The
conduct of the Japanese in recent times shows of what
an Asiatic Kovernment may be capable.

Uandhook to Agra,

"These Fathers affirm further, that he being upon
klie poiiit of death, couinianded that they should be
palled to make him a Christian, but that thea they were
not made acquainted with it. Many nay thaC this is not
), and that hp died as he had lived without any religion,
1 the defiigo he hud, as well as his father AHar,
set himself up fur a prophet, and to become the head
i( a particular religion of his own composure. However
t be, there la another thing I have learned of a Mohu-
bietan, that was son to an officer of Jihan Guire, namp-
riy, that this king being one day in a dehauche, called
to him a certain religious man of Florence, whom he
Billed Father Aleck, as being a little fiery man ; and
after he had commanded him to say all he could a^ninsE
the law of Mohumet, and Jor the law of Christ, in the
presence of many knowing AtiiUnh», he would have
made this terrible trial of both those laws, viz., that a
gieat pit should he made, and n good fire in it, and
that Father Atp.ch with tlie Qonjiel under his arm, and
one of those Mullahs with the Aleorati under his, should
oast themselves both together into that fire, and that
he would embrace the law of him that should not burn.
Bat that the sad countenance of the Midlahg, alto-
r gether astonished, and the compassion he had of the
t Florentine Fatlier, who accepted the condition, diverted
him from it, "Whatever the truth be of this story^ 'tis
certain that while Jehan Guire lived, these. Fathers were
respected and honoured in this court, and that they
conceived great hopes of the advancement of Christ-
ianity in those pai-ts ; but that since that time they
have had no great cause to hope nmch of it, except
perhaps what they received by that familiarity, which
our Father Buze had with Dara."

Sihandra, 43

SIKANDRA.

The road by which the old Moghuls used to go north-
ward to Lahore and Kashmir passes north-west by an
arch of red stone and a bastion, tlie remains of the outer
walls of the enceinte. This road may be called the
" Appian way " of Agra, being bordered by tombs on
either side. After passing the old Delhi Gate of the
imperial walls, the traveller has on the one hand the
District Jail, on the other the Lunatic Asylum, both on
the sites of old monuments of which nothing is now
known. To the right, between the road and the river,
will be found the buildings mentioned at p. 49, which,
together with the tomb of Mariam Zamani, may be
safely reckoned to be among the oldest buildings in the
neighbourhood. In nearing Sikandra will be observed
a handsome gateway of carved stone in the modern
Hindu style, leading to an enclosure, in which is a very
beautiful carved sandstone building of the time of
Jahangir in good preservation. About five miles from
Agra, at the tomb of the Emperor Akbar, a very
beautiful gateway opens into a garden, at the end of
which is a building of four storeys, the upper chamber
being of white marble with lattice windows, and crown-
ed by four small kiosques. It was not completed during
the emperor's lifetime, the inscription setting forth that
it was erected in the reign of his son and successor.
Moreover, Jahdnglr states in his memoirs that, in the
third year of his reign (A.D. 1608), he saw the works
and was so dissatisfied that he caused them to be de-
molished and reconstructed at a cost of fifteen lakhs of
rupees. This mark of consideration for an indulgent
father's memory is a pleasing trait in a character where
uch are somewhat deficient.

This is Finch's report (about the same date) : " No-
thing more finished yet, after ten years' work." " This
tomb," he adds, " is much worshipped "Vio'Oa. \s^ 'M.ow^
and Gentiles, holding him for a great sa\xi\»2"' ^^^Vssia^i

a Handbook to Agra.

who was at Agra, about the same time as Finch, thi
still leas hopefully of the progress of this work.
hath," saya the Captain, "been fourteen years building,
and it is thought will not be finished these fourteen
years more. The least that works there daily are three
thousand people ; but this much I will say that one at
our workmen will despatch more than three of them."

There may have been buildings here before the ola
emperor's death, but it cannot be doubted that the work^
as we see it, ia the work of Jahanglr.*

Tlie white marble enclosure atop rests upon four
atagee, inclusive of the platform, the heif;ht of the whal4
from the ground being over 7-i feet. The inscriptions
upon the architraves of the interior are from a Persian
poem supposed to have been composed by Shekh Faiz^
the brother of Abul Fazl, on the rirtues of his ol4
patron the Emperor Akbar; and the head and foot rf
the marble tomlistonecontatn the salutations of his ftuth
or school, " AUaho Akbar ! JiJJi Julali Hoo !"+ Ninety-
nine titles of the creator are said to be inscribed about
it.

Finch says that at his last sight of this monument
there was a rich tent or awning over the upper tomb
and the stanchion for such a roofing appear still as an
integral portion of the cornices of the surrounding cloia-
ters. He adds, that "it was to be inarched over with
the modt curious white and speckled marble, to be ceiled
all within with pure sheet gold, richly inwrought." No
traces of any preparation for such covering can
observed ; nor is it easy to understand how it ooald
have been supported, It is said that the sort of half
pillar at the head was intended to bear the Koh-i-Nur
diamond, and that it stood there for some time.

* In the Shohjuhai i'ama it is said to hnro beea tnenty yeara itf
hn'Mmg,
t A!so containing the Dame of ha daceaaad " Jukl-ud-diif

Sikandra. 45

On the frieze round the great gateway are other
poetical inscriptions in the Persian language setting
forth the praises of the monarch and the mausoleum.
The name of the Emperor Jahangir is given as that of
the founder ; and it is stated that the work was com-
pleted in the seventh year of his reign, corresponding
to 1613 A.D. In the corresponding part of the garden-
front the poetry is continued, and each ends with the
name of the engraver Abdul Huq Shirazi (native of
Shiraz) with the date corresponding to 1614. On this
side the monarch praised is the son and founder Jahan-
gir, as the verses upon the other or road-front are dedi-
cated to the father, whose remains are interred within.

The real tomb is in a vault below the floor of the
building, and the ground level into which one descends
as into an Egyptian pyramid. The vaulted vestibule
was covered with moulded plaister, still coloured, chiefly
with dark blue and gold. The mortuary hall is nearly
38 feet square, and is surrounded by other chambers
of smaller size containing tombs of less distinguished
members of the imperial family.

Bound the sepulchre were originally placed the
armour, raiment, and books of the Great Emperor, ready
to his hand if he should rise. But the Jats are said
to have carried them off in the last century to Bhurt-
pur, where it is possible that some relics of Akbar
still survive in oblivion or concealment. The tomb has
been lately provided with a sumptuous covering at the
expense of Lord Northbrook.

The platform, on the open storey at the top, upon
which rests the carved cenotaph, corresponds in size to
the sepulchral chamber on the ground ; and it must
have been this, if anything, that Finch was given to
understand was to have been covered with an arch and
vault. The surrounding cloisters contain a quadrangle
of 70 feet square. It would have been next to imi^o«ai-
ble either to roof this space under e^i^Xixi^ c.ox^^\xs\ss\iA
or even to have introduced a domed \a.\xi\i m >i}ttftissA^^'

4:6

Handbook (o Agra

generally an aootei
He aay,4 (while atran|
ly enough udmicting that "the au mm it of then
leum ia open to the sky") that the cenotaph stands "
a pavilion of marhle covered with a gilded dome."

The outer walls of the cloisters of this upper Rqm
are formed of marble screens pierced with a number 1
intricate and highly varied geonietric patterns. Throit|
occasional apertures that have been left for the purpo
a fine view presents itself of the gardens and the bi
rounding conntry. The white dome of the Taj rai
oi) the eastern horizon like a riaing moon. Mr. TaykJ
in speaking of this very beautiful scene, says — **'
thought the Aleaitar of Seville and the Alhambra (
Grenada had already presented me with tlie purest tyi'
,of Saracenic, but I was mistaken. What I had see
he splendours of the Moghuls, and what I then sa^
■powered me like a magnifiiient dream." F

The Amerioaa author before quoted, deaaribin
likandra, says : — " It takes its name from Alesande^
' ose invasion of India has thus been commemorfttq
the Moghuls. The great Macedonian, however, »
not penetrate so far as this, his battle with Forua havi
been fought on the Jhelum, or Hydaspes, beyok
Lahore. The tomb of Akbar stands in the midst oT
large square garden, which has a lofty gateway of i
sandstone in the centre of each of its sides. From tbdl
four gateways, which are upwards of seventy feet bin
four grand causeways, of hewn stone, converge to t
central platform, on which the mausoleum stands. "
intermediate spaces are filled with orange,
banana, palm, and peepui trees. In the centre of t
causeways are immense tanks and fountains, Thepla;
form of white stone, which terminates these magnific*
appi-oaches, ia about four huiidreil feet sqnare.

Sikandra, 47

mausoleum, which is square, measures more than three
hundred feet of a side, and rises in five terraces, in a
pyramidal form, to the height of one hundred feet.
Around each of the terraces runs an arched gallery sur-
mounted by rows of cupolas, resting on circles of small
pillars.. The material of the edifice is red sandstone,
except the upper storey, which is of white marble.

" A long descending passage leads from the main en-
trance to a vaulted hall in the centre of the structure ;
light is admitted through a few small openings in the
dome, barely sufiicient to show you a plain tomb in the
form of a sarcophagus, with a wreath of fresh flowers
lying on it. Beneath it is the dust of Akbar, one of the
greatest men who ever wielded a sceptre, the fourth
descendant in a direct line from Tamerlane, the grand-
son of Baber the Conqueror, and grandfather of Shah
Juhan; in him culminated the wisdom, the power, and
the glory of that illustrious line. I doubt if the annals
of any family that ever reigned can furnish six succes-
sive monarchs comparable in greatness of their endow-
ments, and splendour of their rule, to Baber, Humayun,
Akbar, Jahangir, Shah Juhan, and Aurangzeb."

The minarets on each side the main entrance of the
Sikandra Bagh have had their tops knocked off; the
natives say by order of Lord Lake when he took Agra
in 1803, because some European soldiers fell from the
top of them. Another and more probable story is that
the Jats, when they sacked Agra, from mere wantonness,
turned their cannon upon these elegant turrets.

These minarets seem to have been much in their
present state long before Lake's time. Mr. Hughes,
R.A., an artist, who saw them in 1782-83, records that
at that period the tops had disappeared —

*• At each angle of the gate are minarets of white
marble rising up to a great height, in part fluted -in.
These minarets were formerly covered with open pavi-.
lions, and furnished with domes, which IvauN^Wv^'Sff^^'^
been destroyed." [Travels in India, VI ^^-'^^^ "^^ V2IV'\

aide
the

Handbook to Agra,

A little further down the Muttra Road, on the o] .
e of the vay, is the tomb auid to be the monumenti)
the Christian wife of the Emperor Akbar. Aa will *
shown more at length in the account of Fattehpur-Si"
there is very grave reason to doubt whethi
»ver had a Christian wife, and therefore whether
iappoaed influence on hebalf of the Jesuits is not a
"inyth. The building haa for KOrae tiiue been aaed
printing-press connected with a Proteatdnt Orphi
which the Church stands hard by. The probal>ilil_
that thia lady waa a Hindu— daughter of KajahBnlii
Mul of Jaipur — whoae title, Mariam. Zitmaui (Mary
the period) has led to the myth. She was mother to t
Emperor Jahangir, and died at Agra A.H. 1032. in t
^^^^ eighteenth year of her son's reign.
^^^K The building probably made part of the couatry-hi
^^^■jBf the Lodi dynasty overthrown by Babi

TOMBS, &c., IN CITY AND SUBURBS

Returning from Sikandra the viaitor will not faiV
notice the milestones {koa-niinar)., somewhat reaembld
in shape and size the meta aiulans that stands in froin|
the Coliseum at Rome. The l-oa (Pers., kroh) ila
measure of distance stated in Elliot's Glossary to ii
equal to 2 miles 4 furlongs iind 168 yards. These pillars
marked the distances on. the imperial way from Agra to
Lahore, and were built by the Emperor Jahangir along
the royal road. Some are by the side of the modern
c»uaeway, some in the fields where the old lino has been
\ deserted. A well with stone seats for the aceomuio> i

Idation of travellers URed to exist at each of thM^^J
Uage.s. The Giiru-ka-Tal and mausoleum, supposed^^H
eikandar Lodi, can be visited from Sikandra. ^^^^1
ifcoinb of Mariam is thought to have been part of 8ik|^^B
iar's Palace. Buildings of thi Ltn^i Ume a.Te scarce, '^^|

The Suburbs. 49

To the left of the road, about half-way between Sikan-
dra and Agra, will be found some tombs in the fields :
one with an adjacent hall of sixty-four pillars ; the other
a domed building with a crypt, now without monument
or inscription. The former is believed to be a memo-
rial of Bakhshi Salubar Khan, killed by Amar Singh,
JRuthor (vide sup., p. 21); the latter is asserted to mark
the last resting-place of one of Ak bar's peers, named
Sadiq Khan. He was a ^^ Munsubdar of 4,000" in the
technical language of the time. He died in 1597, and is
supposed by some to be buried at Dholpur, where he
erected a mausoleum in his lifetime. "^'^ He was the
nephew of our old friend Itmad-ud-Daulah, whose daugh-
ter was the celebrated Nur Jahan Begam, so often men-
tioned in these pages. He married another of the
daughters, who died 7th October 1630. He was one of
Akbar's best ofiicers.

Proceeding a little further in the same direction, a
little nearer to the civil station, one comes upon a
large baoli in front of a gateway. These baolis, of which
there are many about Agra and Delhi, were places in
which the richer residents used to build rooms round
the shaft of a large well ; these being reached by broad
and deep staircases, afforded a pleasant retreat in very
hot weather. Over the gate of the enclosure is an
Arabic inscription with a chronogram which has not
been deciphered. Entering, the visitor finds a garden
with a raised platform in the middle, crowned with an
elegant pavilion on light arches. This building was
erected about fourteen years ago by the Seths of Muttra
(to whom the place now belongs) in the room of a bath
or cistern that formerly occupied the mound. In the
centre of this bath was a tomb, in which lay the remains
of the Ladli Begam. This lady was sister to Akbar's
famous friend and Councillor Abul Fazl, the author of

.♦ Vide Trans. Arch. Soc. Agra, June 1875, "wViexe \)cife vekSC:Tv^>Cvsu.
tbe Dholpur tomh is giVen, dated 1005 E,

Handbook to Agra.

bhe Ain Akhari. She was the wife of Islam Khan, 1
randsQii of Shekh Siilim Ohiahti of Fattehpur,
J Governor of Bengal under Jahaogir. Tlie B*
nA.D. 1608. Herhusbandia buried atFattehpJ
I in the Durgah Court. His tomb is an enormous, H
tnot otherwise striking, building on the opposite sidefl
■'the quadrangle to the tomb of the saint. f

Another tomb, about a. quarter of a mile to the not*
of the courts on the I'oia QhM Boad, is that of tmoti
holy man, martyred under JahAngfr. This i
ullah Khan, a Shiah of good position, who claiiiied ■
be descended from Uosen, the grandson of the Frojditf
he came from a village in Persia called Shuatar, fr«
which causes he is named in the epitaph " Hoseni 8ln
tri." He was author of several religious books.
Across the road ia the karbela, where the mai
Jfot Hassan and Hosen, the Prophet's grandsons,
Kbrated at the Moharram ; and close by ia a cemetery
pthe Su7tni sect, in which the oldest tomb is that of A

a Mogbul nobleman, who retired from the worlcll
Bthereignof Jahanglr, anddiedat AgraA.D. 1651.
■■memory is still much revered by his co-religionists.
■tomb is kept covered with a handsome cloth ; pc
Eassemble every Thursday to sing hymns there, aBoB
■yearly fair is held, where alms are distributed to t
)oor.

In the city there are a few intere.sting remains;'
3 most part, however, these are hut little a
D European visitors. Near the Government dis
' Avill be found a large mosque called the Kali Mu/^^
or "Black Mosque," which is worth a visit, as a
ing much more to Fergusson's description (Hist, j
II, 688), than the Jainma Muxjid In regard to va
itisgivenin theorigina]. The mosque is of the earlfl
Mtyle of Hindustani art {vide App. A), approaching ■

** Miiijid, aa biB

The Suburbs. 51

" Pathan," and is a fine, though somewhat rainous, spe-
cimen of the transitional period of Akbar. It is tra-
ditionally ascribed to Mozufur Hosen, a grandson of
Ismail Shah Suflfavi, King of Persia, and father of the
wife of Shah Jahdn buried in the Kunduhari Bagh,
now the town residence of His Highness the Maha-
rajah of Bhurtpoor. Mozufur was a " Grandee of Five
Thousand." His character was tricky and wavering,
and he died a disappointed man, in A.D. 1600, about
five years before the Emperor Akbar.

In the Nairki-Mundi^ near the Collector's office, is
an ancient mosque, whose three plain domes, exactly
representing the curve of the vault within, bespeak the
influence of Pathan art before the adoption of Tartar
forms {vide App. A). There are no inscriptions or any
authentic record to show the exact date of this building.

Not far off is the shrine of Shah Ala-ud-din Mujzub,
commonly called Alawul Bulawul, son of Syud Suliman
of Medina, who came to India, vid Khorasan, in the
time of Sher Shah, the interrex of Humayun. He
established a school of Mahomedan law at Agra, and
built the mosque which is still in existence, the oldest
building of the kind in the neighbourhood. He also
established a sort of monastery, and some endowments
still kept up givesupport to a shadow of the ancient
establishment. The most curious thing about the mosque
is that it has sunk into the ground up to the spring
of the central arch, a circumstance which is thus ex-
plained by tradition. Sher Shah, it is said, wished to use
the sacred edifice as a stable, and the saint demurring
cursed the building, which thereupon descended as if
to hide itself. The monarch soon after of course died.

The holy man himself did not consent to pay the
debt of nature till the next reign, dying at Agra {temp,
Sulim Shah) in A.D, 1546, at the mature age of 90.
There is an old hummam, or Turkish-bath, in Chipitola,
dated A.H. 1030.

The citjr walla have been entiteV'j ^xx.T'^e^^^ ^xA \ivea*-

Handbook to Jitfi-a.

^^^H^ sured by Mr. Gurlleyle, and found to have been fa

^^H iu length (in round figures). Besides the Delhi '

^^^1 on the way to Sikandr^ mention should be mada

^^^L the gate to tlie southward and long parapettod cttifl

^^^^ way called Chunga Modi Pid. There was till lateln

^^^H third gate (nearly opposite the shop of Purs Kam, i

^^^P lapidary), but it was removed to make way for |

^^" traffic to the Eshibition of 1866, It was called.|

AjraereOate. An old praying place, stiil standi

the road-side, showa where this gate stood. Thei

let into the back wall a stone inscription of the f

of Jahangir, which formerly belonged to the now 4

noshed mosque of the Mtijdi-ka-GuTribuz CemeEg

liard by,

"iroz Khan's tomb is not far from the Dahara B^
L to the south of cantomnents, opposite the third i
t atone on the Gwalior Road. It ia one of the ■
I beautiful buildings in the neighbourhood, and of 1

sarly style. It displays an abundance of gl
I of various colours, together with carvings c
Kin the style often us^ in Akbar's time. In froolij
V been a iine masonry tank, now much injured b; I
I removal of the stones that held up the banks.

FATTEHPCR-SIKRI.

The road to Pattehpur-Sifcri leaves the Drumm

■lload o£ Agra opposite the Nai-ki-Mundi, and g

■" e west through Shdh Giinj, Just at the entranoo

e Shd,h Otinj Road are the remains of an i

til an inscription still very legible, setting forth 1

fit was built by Jahioglr in 1031 H. This wa«|

IGth year of the emperor's reign, and just hefora f

final departure from Agra,* About a quarter of a jg'

^^B»/£

Tb spot marks the si

ra Gate " of Hm qi

Fattehpur-Sikri, 53

further on the road turns off to the left, towards the lines
of the British Infantry. A little way up this road is a
considerable Mahomedan Cemetery called Mujdi-ka-
Gumbuz, Here is what some suppose to be the tomb
of Mirza Hindal, son of Babar, and father of Akbar's
chief queen Sultana Roqia, The name, nearly obliter-
ated, is still to be seen on the top of the tombstone,
which is surrounded by Arabic inscriptions in the
Toghra character. At the head and foot stand monoliths
about seven feet high, richly carved, and the footstone
bears a Persian epitaph and the date 978 H. Akbar was
at this time engaged in a serious campaign against the
Rajputs, and this may perhaps account for the small
scale of the monument. It is, however, a fine specimen
of sandstone carving, and the remains of the plinth
serve to show that it was once a monument of import-
ance. It is generally asserted, on the other hand, that
Mirza Hindal was buried at Kabul in A.H. 958.

Proceeding in a westerly direction the traveller next
comes to the village of Socheta, where was fought during
the Mutiny a very severe action between the British
garrison of Agra and a party of the rebels. The follow-
ing is an abstract of the official narrative, under date
July 5th, 1857. The writer, Mr. A. March-Phillipps,
was himself a distinguished member of the mounted
volunteers on that trying day : —

" The force moved on the road to Fattehpur-Sikri till
they arrived at the Begam Sumroo's walled gardens; then
they left the road and formed in order, moving to the
right over sandy plains. Tlie enemy were then in sight,
and soon opened fire from guns planted directly in our
front. Our force advancing opened fire, and the enemy,
after a short exchange of shots, retired to the distance
of two miles, to the village of Sucheyta, when the firing
recommenced ; then the 3rd Europeans were ordered to
lie down behind a slightly rising ground, which did not
however protect them from the fire oi t^^ tcV^'^ <iO\xv^^TC5
oi the T2nd posted on the tops of Yioua^^ saA vcl Vc^^'s*.

Bandhnok to Agra.

In this position the 3rd remained, and numbers i
thus killed by this concealed and destructive fire.

" The three guns commanded by Captain Pearson b
{•round on the left, while Captain D'Oyley t
on ths right ; nineteen of the volunteer cavalry o
the flanks of tbe right, and twenty of the same with %
mounted officers, the left.

" The artillery of the enemy was also divided to n
the two fires. Their guns were screened by
ground forming natural breastworks, and by
growing trees. Their infantry at first were
behind the villages, while their oavalry, in great fee
formed behind and on our right Hank.

"Owing to the position of the guns of tbe eata
our artillery could do little but fire into the village i
the grove of trees. Their infantry, emboldened by j
punity, advanced and occupied the village ; tbeir I
lery which had first fired high acquired tiie exact r
two tumbrils on our left half-battery were explo^
On this a cloud of aowara poured with yells from beh,
the village, and made a resolute attempt to charge 1
hampered guns ; they were met by a discharge of g
and a volley from a company of the 3rd, and retiredl
confusion.

"Soon a sowar, whose red rhupkan, marked him
one of the Kotah Contingent, approached the right fas
battery at a hand gallop, and halted at the distance of ^
200 yards from the front of the handful of volunteer |
cavalry. Having satisfied himself as to their numbel, |
he turned his horse and galloped away ; n
cavalry was observed to form on our right, and advu
with the evident intention of charging the half-batH
Their number could not have been less than 200,
Prendergaat, who commanded the eighteen voliiafl
cavalry on the right, ordered an advance, which I
rated to a charge brought this small number soot
tbe midst of a crowd of the rebel horsemen ; the
•cf the roluateeea were broken Xij VV* 'wft'ee'i.-weits i

Fattehpur-Sikri. 55

which they advanced ; the enemy closed round, and but
for their remarkable cowardice, not one of the eighteen
could have returned ; as it was, six were killed, one
desperately and five slightly wounded ; the remainder
formed again as before.

"The word was at last given for the Europeans to
advance, and they occupied the village with complete
success ; had this order been given earlier in the action,
who can say how much slaughter might have been
spared ? For now it was discovered that the artillery
ammunition was exhausted, and nothing remained but
to retire into the fort. Fortunately the enemy were as
ill-provided as ourselves, for though their guns opened
on our retreating forces, they did not follow to any dis-
tance ; the last discharge unfortunately killed three men
in the 3rd Europeans.

"The entire loss on our side was 41 killed and 99
wounded.

" On the approach of the retiring force to canton-
ments they were met by the foot militia, who formed
across the road, and exchanged shots with the pursuing
sowars, by which fire some loss was sustained.

" Before the English troops had reached the fort, the
Normal School for native education was in flames, the
first of the holocaust ; Mr. Drummond's bungalow was
the next; but the rebel troops did not follow the re-
treating British force beyond Shah Giinj ; indeed, pro-
perly speaking, there was no pursuit at all. "

It would be out of place to comment here upon this
sad business, which seems indeed to have been no more
than an exhibition on a small scale of the mingled un-
readiness in council and gallantry in action that have so
often been characteristic of the race.

The " gardens of the Begam Sumroo, " spoken of by
Mr. Phillipps, are enclosures that formerly belonged, not
to the Begam (who never lived at Agra), but to her in-
famous husband Walter Reinhardt, ^\\o >as^^ ^ oiwsv-
mand in the time of ^N'ujuf Khau, and dVe^d \\\^^^ '^^

56 Handbook to Agra,

1778. Close by is the tomb of Jahdngir's wife, the
Jodh-Bai, or Princess of Jodhpur. She was buried
here in a masonry tomb by her son the sumptuous Shah
Jahan, in or about the 14th year of Jahdngfr's reign;
but the tomb has long been demolished, and little re-
mains but the traces of the enclosure and central VBalt
Akbar's sister, Dahara Begam, also had a gardea near.

Soon after this the road to Fattehpur-Sikri crosses the
State Railway to Jaipur, and after that there is nothing
wortiiy the attention of the traveller. He is pursuing a
line of road identical in most parts with the old im-
perial line, and some irrigation works of old days are
the only relics to be seen, now on one side and now on
the other, crossed by quaint old hog-backed bridges
built of small bricks.

At the 22nd milestone the enclosure and towers of the
deserted palace become visible, crowned by the lofty
top of the Bolund Darivaza. The roads here part, one
going to that gate, another heavier and steeper, but
much more direct, going past the Mint into the heart of
the ruins. The latter is the more direct, and we shall
here suppose the visitor to be taking it while we turn
his attention for a few moments to the earliest European
descriptions of the palace. Finch, in the early part of
the reign of Jahangir, visited Fattehpur and found it
almost in a more deserted state than now : " ruinate,
lying like a waste desert, and very dangerous to pass
through in the night." The mosque he calls " the
goodliest of the Efist." He adds, that Akbar left the
place before it was well finished, driven away by the
badness of the water ; "so that this goodly city was
shortlived, in fifty years being built and ruined. "

See also this description in De Laet, who probably
had Finch's narrative before him among other materials :

" It was formerly a most noble city ; Achabar sur-
rounded it with a wall and fixed here the seat of his
Government, which he afterwards transferred to Agra.
The wall remains to the present day, W\i ^\i^ cit'^ is

SKETCH PLAN

of ttie

DARGAH AND PALACE, AT

FUTTEHPUR SIKRI

Snircuuv frm^Agi-a- Pbaji-

,;Ai»-dMmi,p.tK.)

The wall ramains to the present da^, "WYt V\v^ ^Vj i

Fattehpur-Sikri. 57

almost destroyed ; its houses tumbled down, and the
soil turned into fields and gardens, so that, when you
are in the midst of the city, you would think yourself
in the country rather than in a town; the distance from
one gate of the city to the other is three English miles ;
but it is very dangerous to attempt this journey by
night. The suburbs also formerly was most extensive,
but are now altogether in ruins. Within the gate on
the north side is a very large market-place, a mile in
length, paved with flints, and enclosed on either side
by buildings. At the end of this there is the royal
palace, adorned with many costly edifices, and above it
is a mosque, more splendid than any other in the whole
East. The ascent to this mosque is by twenty-five or
thirty steps, at the top of which is a very lofty and
most beautiful gate, visible from a great distance.
Within is a broad area, paved with living stone, and
surrounded on all sides by magazines, with lofty columns
of solid rock and immense ceilings ; near the gate is
seen a splendid monument, wherein is buried a certain
holy Mahometan, of the sect of those called Kalendars;
who is said to have constructed this mosque at his own
expense." This latter part of De Laet's description
refers to the Bolund Darwaza, and the great quadrangle,
to be described hereafter. At present we are approach-
ing the palaces from the eastern or Agra direction.

The first building passed is the ruin of a quadrangular
outwork or barbican. Then on your right is a vast col-
lection of dark vaults known traditionally as the Mint,*
and a hall, said to be the Hall of Account, on the other
side. No coin or bullion has ever been found here, nor
have I ever heard of any coin discovered elsewhere
with inscriptions proving it to have been struck at
Fattehpur.

* In 1579 this Mint must have been at work, for it is stated in the
Ahhamama that it was managed by Khwaja A.bdul S\im\id, — (^B(.<k.K-
nann's Ain AkbaH, p. 4l%,)

Banribook to Agra

^^^B We will now suppose the visitor to have taken Bp
^^^Piqiiartefs in the staging-house or d&k bungalow, form
^^^Kin what is believed to have been the emperor'a reco
^^" office and to be desirous of acquiring aotne gene
knowledge of the neighbourhood before going ont
inspect the ruins,

Fatt«hpur-Sikri owes its selection as a roy^l pesidoi
to the ciiGumstaDces t!iai> attended the birth of Mil
Suliio, afterwards the Emperor Jahingfr, whose n
was a Hindu Princess of the Amber family, married
the great Akbar. The Anaber family was one of Km
waba Rajputs, a tribe believed to have been original
settled in the Gwalior country, and to have emigrat
thence in the twelfth century. Their chief at the til
_ oi the marriage was Sahara or Bihari Mull, who fa
^en among the iirst adherents of Babar, and ]
Maughter was chosen by the young emperor in paranaii
vf his constant policy of uniting the HinduB a,
THoslema of India into one people. The Rajputni h
twins, but they died in infancy just about the tii
when Akbar, returning from the campaign against 1
revolted TlKbek nobles, halted at the foot of the rode
1569, On the top reaideji a faqir or hermit, Shel
Sulim, called Chishti after his spiritual father who ca
from Chist, a villnge in Persia. The holy man pereutu
the royal couple to take up their abode in his neighboS
K hood, and such was the salubrity of the air, joii^d, 1
V^re assured, to the holy hermit's spiritual exertions, Qi
P'ft son was born to them during their stay, and endtn
' by the grateful parents with the name of the K«
Sulim. This name the Prince continued to bear for I
next five-and-thirty years, till raised to the throne
1605 as the Emperor Jahangir. The legend mentioo
in the account of the Agra Fort to the effect tbi
its foundation was owing to persuasions on the part <
Salim Chishti must be taken with one correctiof
Akbar's head-quarters were at Agra when the Fattehpj
W^alace iron beniin, and the commeuceiueTi^i ot \:b«i ■£*«

Fattehpur-Sikri, 59

at Agra dates three years earlier than that beginning.
Legend explains these events in its usual marvellous
fashion. At the time of the royal visit, the hermit, it is
said, had a baby son aged six months, who seeing his
father buried one day in deep reflection after a visit
from Akbar, suddenly broke silence by asking why he
sent away the Conqueror of the World in despair.
Accustomed to portents, the holy man calmly answered
that all the emperor's children were fated to die in in-
fancy unless some one gave a child of his own to die
instead. " By your reverence's permission," rejoined
the courteous but forward infant, " I will die that His
Majesty may no longer want an heir." Then, without
waiting to give his father time to forbid the sacrifice, the
wondrous child at once expired. Nine months later the
prince came into the world. If it were worth while to
look for the truth in this story, it might be found that
the prince was a child substituted by the faqir for a
royal infant that was still-born. But it is mere waste
of time to guess without facts, and the allusion is only
here suggested because there is a child's tomb, shown
as the faqir's, at the back of the great mosque ; and
those who prefer the appearance of solid ground may
like to ponder that, or any less charitable solution.

The palaces and mosques that were raised in conse-
quence of the prince's birth are situated within a walled,
but not fortified, enclosure or park, seven miles in
circumference embracing the two villages^ of Sikri and
Fattehpur, and having in its centre a huge rock above a
mile in length, running from south-west to north-east.
Following this direction let us begin with the great gate
(Bolund Darwaza) raised on a lofty flight of steps
from the south foot of the hill, and towering 130 feet
above the upper plateau. Fergusson says : —

" This is Akbar's grandest mosque ; but the design
is thrown out of harmony by the magnificence of ita.
principal gateway, a splendid object m \\.^^i^ ^^-^w^'a^
the Bnest in India, but placed wlaer© \t \a\X> ^^^^'^^^^^

Handbook to Agra

mosque to which it leads, and prevents the body (i£
building from iiaring thiit pre-emineace which it ouj
to possess."

RTho reader will judge for himself, but at all eve
t without bearing in mind, that the guteway waa I
rt of the original design, hut was a triumphal ai
icted a good many years after the durgah, or sacs
ftdrangle, of which the mosque forms one and not i
at important side. On the left hand as you. ent
>m the quadrangle, below the springing of the arcbfl
an inscription in bold relief upon the sandstone to
following effect ; —

" His Majesty, King of Kings, Heaven of the Courts
Shadow of God, Julal-uddin Mohummud Khan, t"
Emperor. He conquered the kingdom of the soul
and Dan Des, which was formerly called Khan Dea,
the divine year 46tli " {e.g., of his aceession) " oofi
sponding to the Hijree year 1010. Having ri
Fattehpur he proceeded to Agra." Then follow
usual fulsome praises, and then a sudden
into the minor key, in the shape of a passage from tL
Arabic Uudees, or sacred traditions, in the true spirit^j
the slave on the Roman car. " Said Jesus, on whoi
be peace ! The world is a bridge, pass over it^ ba
build no house there : lie who hopeth for an hour, maj
hope for an eternity : the world is but an hour, spendJ
in devotion : the rest is unseen." On the opposite aid
another carved sentence tells ns that icori is twraAijg
*' He that standeth up to pray, and his heart is not i)
^ ' I duty, the same exalteth not himself, remainmg {^
Q God. Thy beat possession is what thou hast giviij
ilms ; th; best traffic is selling this world for til
!xt, k,c." This inscription closes with a line that is ]
Gttle obscure, but may be thus parapbrawd, and is- 1
pleasant specimen of a Persian conceit : i"" Know ths
the world is a glass where the favor has come and i

Fattehpur-Sikri. 61

gone, take as thine own nothing more than what thou
lookest upon.'^ This whole set of inscriptions is valu-
able as a trait of character; the emperor probably
devised, or sanctioned, the idea. He died about four
years after the date recorded in that first cited \ and
perhaps, as his clouded end approached, he may have
been led to ponder on the folly of building so many
" houses " and forming such vast plans in such a transi-
tory existence. A bridge, like that of Lucerne, decorat-
ed with the dance of death.

The following curious scene is related by the malcon-
tent Badaoni to have occurred in the mosque that forms
the west side of the quadrangle to which this magni-
ficent entrance conducts the visitor, at the time when
Akbar was propagating the reformed religion of which
he was to be Chief Imam or High Expositor : —

" To appear in public as the Mujtahid of the age on
Friday, the 1st Jumad-ul-uwwul 987, in the Jamma
Musjid, which he had built near the palace of Fattehpur,
he began to read the Khutbah (public Litany). But all
at once he stammered and trembled, and in spite of all
assistance could hardly get through three lines of a poem
which Faizee had composed, so descended from the
pulpit." The verses may be thus paraphrased —

" The Lord to me the kingdom gave.
He made me good and wise and brave,
He guided me in faith and truth,
He filled my heart with right and ruth ;
No wit of man can sum his State,
AUahtl Akbar ! God is great. '*

These lines show a fine ideal of the kingly office.

The so-called "Divine Monotheism" of Akbar was an
attempt to throw off the rules of Islam, and substitute
an eclectic system obtained by putting together the
systems of Zoroaster, of the Brahmins, and of Christ-
ianity, and retaining some Mahomedan forms. Few
leading Moslems and only one Hindu (Birbul) embraced
it, and it fell at the death of its founder, owing to the

Handbook to Agra

opposition of sincere believers and the indifference of
the new Emperor Jahanglr. But the Hindus continued
to prosper till the time of Aurangzeb. Of Akbar's peers
fifty-sevenwereHiodusout of about four hundred; under
his grandson Shah Jahan out of six hundred and nine,
one hundred and ten were Hindus. Neither Aibar nor
Jahangir converted their Hindu wives to the faith
of Ifllam.*

The quadrangle or court of the durgah is 433 feet by
366. On the west aide is the great niosijue. Upon the
main arch is a chronogram, " this mosque is the dupli-
cate of the Holy place" (vide App, C.)i which being
interpreted gives the Hijri date 979=A.D. 1671. The
wings of the mosque are of red stone, with lofty square
piilara, in the prevailing HJnduised fashion of the place
and time ; but the centre is a vast vaulted place of
assembly, paved with white marble, and painted about
in white and delicate tints in a variety of geometric
patterns. Gkiing out at the back we come ou an e
sure containing the tomb of the infant above-menluoii
and upon some other records of the earlier days of \
hill before it had attracted the notice of royaJ^J
become the seat of a luxurious and literary court, f
this small collection of plain-looking (Mbris will 1
found a door purporting to be the entrance to the cb<
which, as in the early days of Egyptian Christiani^
formed the original station of the saint. This is t
cave where he lived an unscathed life among the tigi
and bears, the foxes and the hares ; hard by is tH
mosque which was built for him by the pious atone-otf
tera of the neighbourhood, with its very c

;kets in shape resembling the letter S : and heiOi^
'the school or portico where he taught bis disciples IT
a sophist of old Athens. Here also is pointed out t
birthplace of Jahdngir. Beturniug to the mosque, 1'

Fattehpur-Sikri, 63

visitor finds the great court-yard before him. To the
left is the tomb of the saint, a chamber externally of
white marble surrounded by a deep dripstone on a
cornice supported by the same remarkable brackets as
already noticed at the old mosque of the stone-masons,
and reproduced by the builder of the tomb, probably
on that account. The outer screens are of the finest
pierced work in white marble, and at a distance resemble
lace. Inside, the building is only of marble about
4 feet up. At this point occurs a sort of dado, the walls
above being wainscoted with red sandstone. All the
panels are covered with flowers painted in a somewhat
tawdry style by order of Mr. Mansell, who was Collector
of Agra about 1836 ; but the old paintings are said to
have been merely restored or reproduced. Over the
remains of the saint is a sort of bedstead encrusted
with fine mother-o'-pearl work, and the nacrous sheen is
particularly pleasing in the half-light of the mortuary
chamber. The mosque appears to have been finished
shortly before the death of the saintly Sulim, who died,
according to Mr. Beale, on the 13th February, A.D.
1572. It would appear, however, that the tomb was
not completed for a long while, the date 988 H. (1581
A.D.) being inscribed on the inner wall. In the exact
centre of the north side of the quadrangle are the tombs
of the women ; then a handsome archway confronts the
f^reat southern gate. Beyond, in an enormous mauso-
leum, is the tomb of Islam Khan, a grandson of the
saint, who was Governor of Bengal in the reign of
Jahdnglr.*

To the north of the durgah, the houses of Abul Fazl
and his brother Faizi, Akbar's most intimate friends and
followers, have been turned into a boys' school. What
is now the English class-room was the zenana; the

* Finch, whose description of the shrine and its suiTo\Midvw5ga.\^
exact and gwphic, says, "Herein lyetYi t\\e \>o^^ oi ^ ^x^-ai^
Kalecd^r at whose coat the whole meskite Yfaa W\\^^^.'^

Handbook to Agra.

■other building contained the public ro
is the priDcipa,! palace, erroneously attributed hy t
guides to Jodh-Bai, which was perhaps the central ct
de logia appropriated to the Zim-i-hilan or chief \
Boqia, Sultan Begam, daughter of Hindal, the empero
uncle, who survived her cousin and huaband, djing I
a great age A.D. 1627.

This is the largest of the quarters, and cooHista o
quadrangle 177 feet by 157 feet, on the four aides
which runs a continuous gallery, from which ot
Bud south rise rooms roofed with sloping slabs coven
with blue enamel. Issuing from the lofty and r
Foarved gate of this palace (which, if not the qua
\fli the Empress Zwn^i-hdan, may be looked upon a
"more special quarters of the emperor himself) one o
upon a terrace paved with sandstone flags, andfonnal
enclosed by a colonnade, on which stand almost i
line from west to east the house bo called of Birbul, I
called " of the Christian lady," together with the J
"'akul or private chambers. Here in another cow

■eservoir of water crossed by four causeways i

the middle. On the south ia the khwcAgoh, i
place where the emperor and the more intimate tq
members of his family perhaps took their siesta on'S
afternoons. On the top is the royal bed-room, a
ber of singular simplicity and small dimensions ;
the back of Birbul's Palace {or that of his daughta|',i9
some recent observers argue) ia a magnificent Btabl^Jt
with 51 stables, each for two horses, in which manM
and rope idngs are atiU existing, all of stone, thought
" lorwaya have perished in every stall but one. IjbCI^
,ke these buildings in the above order with a litij|

are detail.

Birbul's /wase, rather, in all probability, that al %
daughter, as it stood in the enclosure of the womeo,^
a two-storied building, or carving of red sandsto
Kothing can exceed the massiveness of the mate '
^excepting the uiiuuteness of the finish.

FaUehpur-Sikru 65

if a Chinese ivoryworker had been employed upon a
Cyclopean monument. Each of the four rooms of the
lower floor is but 15 feet square, and each is ceiled with
slabs of 15 feet in length by one in breadth. Not a
stick of timber is used in any part. These ceilings rest
upon bold cornices supported by deeply-arched penden-
tives. The rooms in the upper storey are of the same
size but crowned by massive domes, got by placing a
capstone upon 16 sloping slabs, each of which stands
upon an abutment, the whole supported on eight sides,
rising from the four walls of the room. The bold
language of Victor Hugo is very applicable to this
house : " Everywhere was magnificence at once refined
and stupendous : if it was not the most diminutive of
palaces it was the most gigantic of jewel-cases." [L'homme
tjfui rdt.] Rajah Birbal was one of Ak bar's Hindu gran>
dees, and a chief agent in the estrangement of the
emperor from Islamism. He was originally a man of
letters, taken into favour on accounfc of his wit and his
agreeable conversation. It would have been better for
him to have remained content with these distinctions,
an honoured resident of Fattehpur-Sikri ; but he chose
to undertake the command of a military expedition upon
the North- West Frontier : and hei'e he mismanaged the
campaign and perished with eight thousand men and
oflicers in the bleak passes of the Yusufzai country.
He was long mourned by his master, who eagf^rly
welcomed the report of his being alive raised by a pre-
tender to his dead friend's name. The Rajah was the
only Hindu who became a member of the " Divine
Faith" Association, and must have been a serious loss
to its imperial founder's projects. His death took place
in February A. D. 1586.*

* If the difficulty as to the access to the private npArtments
could bo got over, this might be taken to have been tho residence
of the Master of the Horse, as it looks \\\voiv W\o AwXAe^ n^xOv..
But there must have been a wall aomewYvcr^i^ \iO <iTV3,\x\v v^'^^^^'^
for tbti ladies,

Kmf A, H, ■^

^™ do.

' trn

I
I

iSe ffmidbook to Agra.

Christian Lady's house. — Bibi Mariam, say the ^idis,
Portuguese Jady and one of Akbar's wives, lived here,
aud the house is in gofid preservation. Here over the
doom ran a seriea of frescoes, rop resenting, savs the
traditioHj the events of Firdusi's poem the Shah JVdina.
The remains o£ the figurea are very correct and spirited,
and suggestive of European artists. One of the doors
is aurmoitntbd with a tablet supposed to contain the
remains of tin AnDunciiitioo, but tlie zeal of modem
Moslems has destroyed the Virgin and great part of the
Angel, so that the figure of the former can be oaij
partially traced, and the latter e:cists only by his wings.
Other panels have other subjects, some from Hindu
mythology, but all fading fast away.

Abul Fazl in the 34th section of the Ain Akbari giv«s
Bome particulars about the royal painters, but though lie
gives the names of several Hindu artista, only mentiom
Europeans generally as the highest standard of com-
parison. He gives an interesting report of the empei
opinions on art. Some one had been vindicating
Htrictness of Musalman viens on the subject ia I
vate party, when Aibar remarked that he did not
these opinions. On the contrary he said that he thi
a painter had peculiar opportunities ot appi
God's perfections. "A painter," continued hia
" in sketching from life or designing parts of a
subject must become aware that he ia incapable ol
creation, and so his mind ia turned to God, the
of life, and the knowledge of his heart is enlarged.'

* Id Finch's journal in a long ricwription of wnll.pniDtiDga ta I
. ..hin-jir'a Pulsoo at Ijihore, fttmiog wuich wuro very ]i«
Ibe pioturaa of Our Bavjour and tha Virgin M»ry, to^tki

tbe following eitmot frnm lie L'irt'i work (already ojtai'
,) "Tbe royal palace ia witbin Cbe ntadel, on the Iniik
r, here is the middle gaf« of the ibree whioh opau on tlu __
enlraiuie froia tbe aitf ia b; a broad gate, vitjiia wUiik'l
/Br one, wbiish opens on a Buiiare, -wliBrB Iho toijal guftnla IL.
TuraiDB heaca to tha left tbrougki uujttiBT ig«.U, um i^sw^bm «

Fattehpur-Sikri. 67

It is sad to destroy old traditions ; but there is no
reason for believing that Akbar ever married any Christ-
ian lady. The memoirs of the Emperor Jahangir
(Prince Sulim) say that his mother bore the title of
Mariam Zumani, " Mary of the period " (even as a just
ruler will still be called " Now-shirwan of his time "),
the Mahomedans revering the memory of the Mother
of Jesus. The house in question, properly Sonahla

inner court in which is seen the king's darbar ; nround the latter are
the Gfuard-houses of the guard of nobles. Hence one pasi^es into
another court, in the midst of which is the King's Devonca, with
some bed -chambers, in which the King is wont to lie in the
oyening from eight o'clock to eleven. On the wall of this building
is a painting of the king, sitting with crossed legs under a inagni-
ticent canopy. On his right are Sultan Poruesiua, Sultan Carunius,
and Timor with his sons. Next to them are Sha Morat and Dan
Sha, the brothers of the king, then Emyrza Sheriff, the elder
brother of Can Asom. (This nobleman is said to be so rich, that
he does not allow the garments of his concubines, having been
once worn, ever to be put on again, but he orders them to be
buried in the ground until they decay. Moreover, he maintains
five hundred torch-bearers, they call them massalgeas, so that
when he travels from Agra to his house, which is only one eoas
distant from the town, not a single torch-bearer moves from
his place with his torch, but they are stationed aloni the whole
road.) Next to this nobleman is Emyrza Rosthan, formerly King
of Candahar ; then Can Canna, Cuttuph Coun, Rahia Manisengo,
Caun Asom, Asoph Caun, Scheck Fereed, Kelish Caun, and
Rahia Juggonath (on whose death, it is said that seven of his
friends, together with his sister and his brother's son, leapt on
the funeral pile of their own accord). On the left of the king is
Rahia Bousingh driving away the flies with a little flap ; Rahia
Ramdas holding the king's sword ; Cleriff Khan, Mocrib Boucan,
Rahia Bossu, Rahia Ransing, Majo Kesso, and Lai la Bersing.
Moreover in the same portico, on the right hand portion of the
wall whereon the king is painted as above described, there is a
picture of the Saviour and the Virgin-mother above the doors.
There are besides very many halls and women's apartments in
this palace to describe which at greater length would be tedious.
But there is one portico which must not be unnoticed, on the wall
of which are painted the progenitors of this King Selim : vvs.^ his
father Achabar, his grandfather Hamaun, and his great-grandfather
Babur ; the last of whom first came into India (as we shall narrate
elsewhere) with thirty followers in the guise of Kalenders). Be-
yond the western gate of the fortress, there is the ferry across
the river, from which the royal road leads to K^\5\x\. ^>^<^ '«\tfiv'8i
country on the other side of the river is svag\]i\ax\^ ^\<^«fiasi\>^^

^8 Handbook to Agra,

Makan or " Golden House," was once completely gilt I
and painted without, the beams of the verandah being
at the same time covered with couplets by Faizi, Abul
FazFs brother ; and was most probably the residence
of Jahangir's mother, the Hindu wife of Akbar above*
mentioned in connection with the origin of the whole
palace. Whoever this lady was, she is generaUy sup-
posed to be the same in whose honour the tomb at
Sikandra was raised that is now concealed by a printing
press.*

The Khas Mahal is a flagged court-yard 210 feet by
1 20, whose south side is formed by the buildings sur-
mounted by the khwahgah^ or sleeping place above re-
ferred to as crowned by the bed-room of the emperor.
The simple chamber, less than 15 feet square, had four
doors, over each of which was a couplet in Persian now
partly defaced. Such compliments as this appear to
have been offered to himself by the emperor : —

" The Janitor of Paradise may see his face in thy
chamber-floor,

" The dust of thy court is colly rium for the eyes of
the heavenly Hoor." (Houri.)

On the west angle is a building called the girls' school,
and the remains of a screen wail leading due east to the
opposite angle where is situated the apartment of the
Turkish wife ("Stambuli Begam "). The imperial poly-
gamist had, according to the tradition, not only a Portu-
guese, but a Mahomtdan-European among his wives;
and most artistic are the carvings with which her dwell-
ing is decorated. Under the wainscotting of the walls
is a sort of plinth about 4 feet high of the most curioos
fashion. On one panel is to be seen a forest view from
the Himalayas ; pheasants perch upon the boughs, and
tillers stalk through the jungle with their tails bran^
dished ; on another the conventional willow of Chini

*This building (vido mjp,^ p. 48) ie perhaps the sole remnuit if
the villa of iSikondar Lodi.

Fattehpur-Sikri, 69

nods to sprawling dragons ; a third has palm trees ; and
a fourth grape vines and fruit trees in full bearing. The
outside pillars have in some instances curious trees and
bold flower-curves climbing them of a much more rea-
lised type than is common in Eastern art.

There is, it must be added, no better authority for
the Turkish than for the Portuguese lady ; and it is
open to any one to conjecture as he pleases who was
the fair occupant of this apartment of the harem.*

North-west of the Khaa Mahal is a garden with a
small mosque, the private chapel doubtless of the ladies,
and a gallery called the hospital bounds it to the north.
Again, turning eastward we come upon the Punj-Mahal^
a five-storied colonnade, in which each platform in turn
being smaller than that on which it stands, nothing is
left atop but a small kiosque. This, as it commands a
view of the courcs of the women and the adjacent
apartments, was probably the station of the female ser-
vants and the royal children. Or it may have been
merely a place to take the air and view the country
round on summer nights. The most remarkable thing
about this building in its present state is the singular
variety in the style of the pillars which support the
ceiling of the first floor. On one capital a couple of
elephants with interlaced trunks have escaped the
iconoclastic punishment that overtook their larger and
more conspicuous brethren over the llathi Pol (the
great north-west gate to be noticed presently). Another
capital has a carving of a man plucking fruit from a
tree, which Lieutenant Plunkett, who surveyed the
buildings for Lord Mayo, is disposed to believe came
from some ancient Buddhist temple. The ground-floor
has fifty-six columns ; the first floor thirty-five ; the next
fifteen ; the next eight ; while the upper pavilion rests

* In the Khushru Bagh at Allahabad is a tomb, ?>?L\d tc) \ivi "OwzA.
of the "Tamboii Be^-am," which may havebeea cqttvx^^'^^^'vcw^'^

I7ni}dboo/c lo A-jra.

^^^^Knpon four onl7. Koi-th-eaat of the Futij-MoAat aiiS
^^^Hthe Shfia Medial is another compound ^rtiich, like |
^^^^^JCka» JUahaf, haa perhaps lost its northern colonnade j
^^^^H acreeo, and which oontains the pavement i:
^^^^K a pochisi hoard xiniilAr to that at Agra, only thafc 'o
^^^K that is of marble, this ia of stone. North of this p
^^^^V'lnent aod now open to it are the buildings known tojl
^^^^B-j^ides as the Ankh Michauli, or " Blindman's
^^^H House," and the Dewan-irKhag, or Chamber of 1
^^^^B' Council.
^^^^^ The Anich Michauli baa been usually represent-ectl
a place where the emperor played at " Hide-and-S
with the ladies of his household ; and this story i
told on the .■^pot. It stood, however, beyond j
women's apai'tment and close by the aide of the F
Council-room, to which it probably a
containing valuable records and perhaps the regalia

I the crown. Observation of the building inside sla
that the doorways were once closed with stone ('
of which the hinge-holes are still visible; while]
recesses rested upon secret coffers with i
slabs secured by padlocks. All have now beenknoc
open and riSed ; and the floors have evidently been d
for treasure. To the west is a precipice crowned 1;
gallery and lodge for sentries. Thi; place conaist^
fact of a central strong-room with two others t
Boutb and north and verandahs all round, which 1
once secured in a similar manner to the chan
within.
In front of this treasury, or whatever it was, i
pavilion once occupied, it is assprt«d, by a Hindu U
tolerated by the eclectic and inquisitive Akbar.
amall building is of the purest Jain architecture, e
the architraves being supported by two very aii
struts, issuing from the mouths of monsters, and m
in the middle like the apex of a triangle.
This ornameat, according to Fevguason, belong
, the Jain ecbool of architecture ol '«\vuiV x!ius V

FaUehpur-Sikri. 71

on Mount Abu are fine examples. There is a hall in the
Palaceof J.'ihangir of Agra, the roof of which is entirely
supported by a series of such struts or trusses. The
effect is quaint but fine. The tradition ascribes this
palace to Akbar, who is supposed to have built it as
a residence for Jah^ngir's Hindu wives when that prince
was heir-apparent.

The Deuxin-i-Khas is another extraordinary building,
bearing like the whole of the palace the marks of
tlie author's fantastic yet dignified character. From
without it appears to have two storeys, but is in reality
open from floor to roof, with a pillar in the centre rising
to the height of the upper windows. This pillar has an
immense capital, with four stone causeways, each about
10 feet long, leading to the four corners of the chamber,
where they meet a cornice or landing place communi-
cating with the ground by a flight of sixteen steps.
What was the use of this droll structure can only be
conjectured ; tradition says that the centre was the seat
of the emperor, and that four ministers sat at the four
corners, receiving orders for the four corners of the
world. But it may be the place mentioned by Badaoni,
"where the different sects met for controversy {vide Max
Miiller's Science of Religion, p. 83).

Badaoni and the Tahakat both mention the building
of an Ihadatkhana at Fattehpur-Sikri in A. H. 982-H3
(1585 A. D.) They describe it as possessing four
aitcanSj one for each class of religionists, and as beini^
the scene of discussions among the various denomina-
tions. If aiwan could be rendered by some word <'x-
pressive of a side gallery, this might be a bombast ical
account of the Dewan-i-Khas. No other building, at all
answerable to the description, is now traceable in Ihr
precincts of the palace. It is possible that th<5 <liHi)Ut
ants were ranged on the four cornices above mention«*cl,
and that the emperor took his place in th(5 !ni(l<Jh* hk
arbitrator or moderator of their ccrnVTi^wrvviw^.^ '^^^'
traditional name means "Privy CouncWCWwAi^v/ ^ "^^

Haiidhoob to Agra.

Centre and angles of the pillar are covei'ed oa tbe

hpdea with clustei's of amnll pendent) ve-t.
By a colonnade now partly destroy'
Assed to the Dmm,n-%-Am, a aioal! luiU with
renindah looking upon an enoriuous courtyard 360 feet
vj 180, and about it on four sidea is another colonnade

Si whioh thousands of people could sit safe from the aun
or rain itnd witness the administration ol' justice id the
manner so dear to tin oriental populace. Here no
doubt parades of men at anna and auiiuals took place,
and a " Curia regis " was held like our " King's Bench ''
of old, in which causes were heard and petitions received
in that publicity by which alone despotic rulera are able
to command the love and confidence di their nubjects.

The remoiuing objects of interest are to bo seen by
going again westward under the higher parte of the rock.
Here are water-wurka by which the water of the lake
was raised by means of a series of Persian wjieels and a.
system of reservoirs, until it reached all parts of the
residences. The Ifathi Pol (a curious combination of
Hindi and Greek words implying " Elephant Gatn ") is
a massive structure. About 20 feet from the ground
the spiandrels of the main arch are tiauked hy two
colossal elephants, one on each side, the trunks uf
which, interlaced as in the act of fighting, no doubt once

I surmounted the keystone of the arch, till Aurangxeh in
the true spirit of MuHitlinan iHgoiry removed ihe ani-
mals' heads. Ko gi-ander ornament can be conceived
Jor the gate of an oi'ieutal paluco like this of Fattehpur-
fiikri. Adjoining this gateway is a grand bastion, called
Sungin Hitrj, the coicnnencement oi the forttSiHitiiuis
Isegun by Akbnr, but discontinued, so ti-adition as^Tt^
by reason of objections on the part of the holy man
8ulim Ghishti.
Below the Hathi Pol is the Jliran Minat; a tower
sbout 70 feet in height, studded with imitations of ele-
phants' tusks, from which, aa it is said, the etnperor
woiiD to sAoot the antelope, ■wUosc isisae^iiiLiHAi

ele-

Fattehpur-Sikru 73

abound in the neighbourhood, and which were no doubt
driven by for the purpose. Akbar was capable of sport
on a superior scale to this, and on occasion was a
mighty hunter of the lion and the bear. But at Fatteh-
pur-Sikri we see him, so to speak, in his dressing-gown
and slippers. A large caravanserai concludes our survey
of ruins. Hither no doubt resorted merchants from
Cabul, from the Deccan, and from Bengal ; and here
were brought embroideries, shawls, and muslins to be
exhibited to the ladies of the palace. A colossal viaduct
still supports a closed gallery by which the fair residents
couki be passed unseen over men's heads from the
apartments of the Sultana (so-called Jodh-Bai) to the
windows over the Hathi Pol. In this passage will be
found a beautiful pierced screen.

An imaginative pen has revived this life of the old
time ; and we cannot better conclude our visit to Fatteh-
pur-Sikri than by glancing at it in the following extracts
from a sketch contributed to Ledlie's Miscellany by
Mr. J. W. Sherer, C.S.L, in 1852 :—

" It i& scarcely day. But already a roll of drums is
hetard, and cannon discharged break rudely and abruptly
the silence of the * solitary morning.' TJ^e emperor is
an early riser, and the moment of his rising from his
couch is announced in this noisy fashion. You will
remember that there is a door opening to the south in
the khwabf/ah into the space on the opposite side of
which the dvftarkhana stands. Before this doorway,
shortly after the roll of the drums, a considerable
crowd assembles ; immediately at the entrance are drawn
up double lines of chobdars or mace-hearers, each car-
rying a silver stick ; outside of these are burkundazes
and other armed attendants. In front, and conversing
together in groups, stand handsomely-dressed men, who
are evidently, both by their deportment and by the
re8f)ect they meet with from the miscellaneous crowd
which girds in the whole scene, couvUftv§» oi Vcv^wfexv^'^
and reputation. One feature oi tVv^ ensewble \svx):e»^ 's^si'^

^B4

^be

Handbook to Agra

be omitted ; no one wore l)earA% except,
strangers aa iniglit he ensual apectiitors, and wlinni
neither interest nor neceaaity Lad compelled to conform
h) the etiquette of tlie court,

" The door of the khtmihffah. opens, tiie lari'e drums

Sunder from the noiibutkkana over the great doorway

I the palace. A nakib issues forth, mace \a hand, and

feroclHtmx, in that monotonous tone so familiar to dwelt-

n the Eaat, the titles of hia master. Immediately

■ him appejira in the doorway a hroarf-cheated m&n

[ somewhat advanced years. He is simply dressed,

'^ut tliere ia a certain cbaateness in the airaplloity whidH

shows that some little care has been taken to prodinH

it. The materia] is white muslin, but goldthread fl

_iiitrodaced in many parts with a very tasteful efiRMfl

a remark hia arms— tliey are so unusaally long^hia

3 ia very clear, and the colour of the blood so dis-

aible as to give a rich tinge to his olive complexion ;

■his eyebrows are joined and lowering, which tends

give a severe expression to the excessively bright

which they half conceal. This is Akbar. Hia ap|

ancB ia the sigjial for a loud and general cry of

Akbar ! to w^jicb the emperor, standing still in the di

way for a moment and bowing vary slightly, answi

Jilli-Jalalihu !

^^ "This mode of salutation and its answer had

^^L introduced by himself, and it will be observed that

^^K 'two phrases include his name (Jilal-udin Akbar).

^^^oDurtiers now pressed forward, and were sevnrftl

^^Kiioticed with kindness ; then forming a ring round

^^^^pnperor, the whole procession moved on foot towat

^^^■he durgah.

^^^F "Akbar was very early to-day, and the man had

yet been proclaimed. Whilst they were moving sloi«rr
along, the voice of the mnazsin was heard from the high-
up cupolas of the durgah gateway. The first word:
^^^ Ottered were the same as those which the submissive,
^^^muJa'tiide had just rs-peated (Allaito AtViav^jGuA

ssive li

Fattehpur-Sihri, 75

But coming from the serene height and in a slow solemn
chant, they seemed to bear a more pregnant meaning,
and to suggest to a contemplative mind the full inter-
pretation which the eloquent Massilon once gave them,
who, when preaching the funeral sermon of the 14th
Louis, commenced in a deep undertone, * Dipm seul est
grand Tnesjreres V There was one amongst the attend-
ant courtiers, who, on hearing the first sound of the azan^
stood perfectly still. He was a man of sharp severe
features, and noted as the rigid Mahomedan about the
court. It is directed in the Mussulman Haddis, that it* a
person be walking when the azan is sounded, he stands
still and reverently listens. Abdul Kadir, the begotted
historian, for it was he, was not one lightly to omit
obedience to the sacred ritual. A gay man of most polish-
ed manners, who was walking by the emperor's side,
looked round when Abdul Kadir was left some little
distance behind ; and catching the emperor's eye, they
both laughed. This was the celebrated Abul Fazl,
well known to be as lax in matters of faith as Abdul
Kadir was rigid. The whole party had now reached the
eastern gate of the durgah, on the steps of which an
attendant received the emperor's shoes, as no one was
permitted to pass within that sacred precinct except
with feet bare.

" In the middle of the quadrangle, prayer-carpets were
spread opposite to the mosque, and the relative of the
Shekh, who was now the Mutuwallie of the durgah, was
present to read the prayer. The emperor and his
courtiers formed themselves into one long line, and
prostrations and other attitudes were performed by the
whole assembly in concert, which formed a curious scene.

" After prayers, the emperor paused for a moment
within the tomb of the Shekh, for whom he entertained
an affectionate remembrance, casting upon it the simple
tribute of a jessamine flower. When he returned to the
gateway by which he had entered, eVepVvvw(\\,'^^\fe^V<^Ts«e>.,

a/2c/ /Mounted outriders, were touud m «AX*exA^'^^^- ^^^

76 Uandhook to Agra,

the noble elephant upon which Akbar mounted rose
from the ground, guns fired, drums were loudly roll^,
and the procession swung into motion to the voice of
the nakib, whose sonorous compliments and adulations
were taken up by a large crowd of spectators. As the
emperor passed along, his train was swelled by many
courtiers, dependants and others who, having made their
salaam from some conspicuous corner, put their horses
in line. The name of the ' Hiran Minar ' having been
whispered about, it became generally kn<^wn that the
emperor was going to indulge in a little matchlock
shooting.

" The Deer Tower is within the walls, immediately
under the hill in a north-westerly direction. There is a
paved road leading to it from the palace, which passes
under a large gateway called the Hathi Pol., or Elephant
Gate, from two of these animals sculptured in stone, which
Stan* I one on each side of the entrance from without.

" It was a gay sight when Akbar passed under the
Hathi Pol. First, a troop of cavalry, their spears glit-
tering, their horses fretfully champing the bit ; then
chobdars, and chuprassies with red turbans and sashes
on camels, amongst them the nakib still vociferous ; the
leading courtiers surrounded the emperor's elephant on
elephants also, and the mighty animals roll along, tink-
ling with bells and waving their rich trappfngs as they
go. Other courtiers and officers of the palace follow
on horseback, each with his own htirkandazes and attend-
ants on foot. A band of the rude but not ineffective
music of the country accompanies, and their drums are
most briskly answered by those of the durbanan from
over the gateway.

" The emperor ascended to the top of the tower
attended only by an old chuprassie, who carried two
matchlocks. After Akbar had amused himself for some
time firing at deer, which were driven across an open
space at a fair distance from the Minar, he sent word
iJofyn that be was now satisfied witYv a^t^u «Aid ox^^x^

Fattehpur-SiTcrL 77

a review of cavalry, to commence, which had been
arranged for that morning.

" A man now ascended theMinar, richly dressed, his
countenance not wholly unpleasing, but still haunted by
that terriV)le expression of uncertaintj*^ of temper, which
so marked his character ; for it was Prince Sulim. He
saluted his father, and stood by his side looking on as
the cavalry came into sight. There was a fine young
man leading the troops mounted on a showy horse, who
every now and then glanced up to the Minar, as if for
approval ; this was Prince Khusru, Sulim's son. He
had recently got his vnansuh^ and was as proud of it as
lad could be.

" The inspection of cavalry concluded, Akbar and
the Prince came down, and mounting on elephants
moved in procession towards the palace. There is a
large serai on the right of the Minar as you return to
the Hathi Pol. Travellers of many nations were stand-
ing in front of this place, having come out to see the
emperor pass. Amongst them were two men of swarthy
hue dressed in ecclesiastical cassocks. The emperor's
eye immediately caught them, and he, apparently know-
ing what nation and calling they were of, gave an order
for them, to attend him in the evening.

" When Akbar arrived within the palace, he alighted
at the gate of the building, partook of a repast, and
afterwards sent for the Kajah Birbal. The Hindu
Chief, a man of agreeable and cheerful features, came
over, plainly dressed, in a palki or large open litter,
accompanied by his secretaries and a few footmen, and
was soon hard at work with Akbar in political papers
and converse. It was now a busy time in the town :
marketing was going on briskly in the streets, men were
washing and dressing in the public manner the East

* The wansuhs "were military commands, and their respective
(nominal) numbers marked a rank in tbo lAo^\i\3\ ^^^T^%«i. '^<2foa
hut princes of tbo blood hud more than 5,000 Yioiaesi— >^« Qi,^«

78 Handbook to Agra.

admits of, some were cooking and others were eating
their food with the peculiar solemnity of oriental meals.
In one place was loud haggling about a bargain, in an-
other some bunniah was vociferating * dohai padshahy*
against a trooper, who had taken much more atta than
was right for his money. Everywhere noise ; every-
where bustle and life.

" At twelve, Akbar dismissed the rajah after a hard
morning's work, wishing to be left alone, as he said, for
a meditation on the orb which then stood at meridiaR

height, t

"And now came on that time so full of unaccustomed
imagery, to an European mind, the noon of an Indian
day — imagery, indeed, whose picturesque features fami-
liarity has not concealed from the perception of native
writers. The Eajah Sudraka in his drama of the Toy
Cart thus describes the mid-day scene : —

The cattle dozinp: in the shade

Let fall the unchamped fodder from their mouths :

The lively ape with slow and languid pace

Creeps to the pool to slake bis parching thirst

In its now tepid waters ; not a creature

Is seen upon the public road, nor braves

A solitary passenger the sun,

Amongst the sedgy shade : and even here

The parrot from his wiry bower complains.

And calls for water to allay his thirst.'

" And more poetically the great Kalidasa says in the
Hero and Nymph : —

** Tis past mid-day. Exhausted by the heat
The peacock plunges in the scanty pool.
That feeds the tall trees' root : the drowsy bee
Sleeps in the hollow chamber of the lotus
Darkened with closing petals : on the bank
Of the now tepid lake the wild duck lurks.'

" Can this be the Fattehpur of three hours ago — all

* Dohai " two appeals : " the Clameur de Ilaro of the East, and
a common invocation addressed to great men. — H. G. K.
f Akbar's faith lH>rrowed from Poraeeiam.— H. Q. K.

Faitehpur-Sikri, 79

slumber and silence ? Drowsy shrowded figures stretch-
ed on every shopboard — scarce a soul in the streets ;

* The very houses seem asleep.'

" Pompeii could scarcely be calmer ....

" The city woke from its repose by three o'clock ;
where men were not fairly on their feet again they were
chattering to each other, lazily, from charpoys. The
streets buzzed and hummed again wuth life. The loud
laughter and merry shouts of children at play rang in
the air. Servants who would be wanted as soon as the
evening set in, as chupprassies and attendants, were
slowly getting some of their clothes on. Dancing girls,
who lived in the upper rooms over shops, were gradually
appearing in their little balconies, either chatting with
their own musicians, or laughing and joking with people
in the streets. Led horses began to pass by, their heads
reined tightly up, their eyes bandagjed and their grooms
holding them by a long handkerchief. The dogs got
up out of the dust and limped about, snarling amongst
themselves over garbage. Akbar had spent the after-
noon in a sort of desultory chat with Abul Fazl and
Feizi. He had sent for them about one o'clock for he
had happened to remember the two priests who were
standing at the serai in the morning. And then, from
remembering them, his thoughts passed to other priests
who had come before, and with whom he had had dis-
cussions. So he sent for his two friends to consult
what difficult questions should be put to the priests,
and to chat, generally, on the subject of religion. The
laxity of Akbar's faith as a Mussulman, and his singular
freedom from bigotry, has led some to regard him as
an earnest inquirer, from whom, unhappily, the circum-
stances of his birth, education, and position concealed
the truth ; and, in this point of view, he has been com-
pared to Scipio. That he was constAiiXX^ -w'vCsv ^s^^Nasv^
Pilate, asking ' what is truth V there con \>e xvo ^q>^*^*'>

80 Handbook to Agin,

V)ut he seems to us, as far as we can understand hi*
character, to have been more interested in the question
than its answer. He was more amused at new doctrines,
new theories, new objects of veneration, than burdened
with the difiiculties which surrounded the acceptance
of any of them. And there surely is no parallel l)e-
tween a grave and powerful mind bowed down, ever-
lastingly, with the stern dilemmas of that great enigma —
Whence and Whither 1 and the superficial curiosity of
an intellect, that was too restless to bind itself perma-
nently to any particular code of opinions.

" The roar of the town swelled up, but to a fanciful
ear it seemed unlike the same sound in the morninff —
there was a subdued exhaustion perceptible — in charac-
ter with the heavy atmosphere and the dead sky. The
emperor attended by his household servants passed on
foot out of the palace, where he had spent the day,
into the khivabgah. He sat for a short time there ui
the garden, by the side of the fountain and partook of
fruit. Then putting a costl}' shawl over his shoulders,
and taking a jewelled sword in his hand, he moved into
the Dewan-i'Khas, Carpets were spread in the middle
of the square, and cushions of faint blue velvet and
silver laid on them. When Akbar was seated, he ordered
Abul Fazl and Feizi to be admitted. They were close
at hand, and entering, were directed to sit down. Then
the two ecclesiastics were summoned, whom the em-
peror had seen in the morning at the serai. One of
them was a young man of pleasing countenance ; the
other much older and of a very battered appearance.
The elder priest held up a crucifix in his hand as soon
as he entered, at which Akbar s]nile<l, and putting his
hands together, slightly bowed his head. Abul Fazl
at this juncture remarked with a malicious sneer, that
he was sorry Abdul Kadir was not present. The em-
peror laughed and immediately sent for him. Conver-
sation with the Portuguese priests was a difficult matter,
but, Jwwever, it was effected after a i*Aa\\\oii. T\i^ <V»-

Fattehpur-Sikri. 81

cussion was not very profitable, for it consisted chiefly
of Akbar relating cures, which had been effected by
Mussulman saints, and miracles which had been wrought
at their tombs, and insisting that, if the priests' religion
were true, they ought to be able to authenticate it with
miracles. The priests replied that in their own country
there were relics of good men, which had often effected
cures, but that on account of these supernatural quali-
ties, they were esteemed very precious, and people
were not willing that they should be removed out of the
kingdom.

" Conversation was going on in this desultory way,
when the younger priest remarked that he had some-
thing very singular to show the emperor, if it was his
pleasure to see it. Curiosity was excited ; Akbar said,
certainly, that he wished to see everything novel and
rare, and begged the priest to exhibit. The young man
feeling in a pouch under his cassock, said that he
required a light. This was immediately ordered, and
then he, retiring a little, applied the fire to something
which he held concealed in his hand, after which smoke
was seen issuing out of his mouth. At this Akbar
laughed contemptuously, and said, that every juggler
in the country that frequented fairs would do it ten times
better. * Why,* he cried, * they will bring fire out of
their nostrils as well as smoke. If your magic was no
better than this, you would not make one rupee
a month.'

" This badinage was put an end to by the young priest
explaining, that there was no feat intended in producing
the smoke, but that the curiosity was that the smoke
itself was very soothing and agreeable, and that from
partaking of it the mind of man became philosophic
and cheerful. The priest then opened his hand, showed
a small clay pipe ; he also exhibited some of the fragrant
weed from out of his pouch. Akbar was much interest-
ed, and sent immediately for Hukim. A^ovs^. ^\>^Xi^
Gilani to ask hia opinion of tlie\iet\>. 'Q.^vd'^^^X^'^'c^-

ft
ft

fl2 Hamlbool to Affva.

the meaotime on trying it, much against the remon-
Bti^ncea of Abdul Kadir, who was now present, and who
assured him it was a device of the devil, and had pro-
bably been brought direct from his Satanic majesty by
his sei'vants and emissaries, the priests. When the
hukim came, he found the emperor coughing very much ;
for Akbar, not being quite up to the mysteries of the
pipe, bad swallowed a good deal of smoke and waa
Sufferiog accordingly. The hukim with a. grave faoe
examined the herb, and afterwards, being ordered by
the emperor to try it, declared that it wo.'^ a pleasant and,
possibly, a healthful weed, but that the smoke required
purifying before it -was imbibed. ' What is it called f
asked Akbar. ' ToBACCO,' answered the priest. Akbar
agreed with the hukim that the smoke would be beUi
for purification, but inquired how this could be beU
effected. The hukim replied that he thought it mid
be made to pass through water, and from that night 1^
commenced the series of experiments which ended 9
the invention of the hukali.

"Shortly after, the priests obtained permission to
retire. Akbar then rose up and went with his friends
through the aperture in the wall, which leads into the
Dsica^ifi'Am. There were great crowds of people in this
enclosure, anxiously watching the little door which
opens at the back of the throne gallery. As soon as
Akbar appeared through this and took his seat, a great
shout of applause rose up from all sides. In this place
he sat nearly half an hour, talking and laughing with
Abul Fazl, who stood by his side. Occasionally a horse
would be put through the mi^nage in front of his seal ;
now a wild-looking man would try and attract his atten-
tion with a pair of tiger cubs, or a jogee with both hts
arms stiff and attenuated from being held up aloft,
would stand like a prophet denouncing silently a city
before him. At length another shout announcetl that
the emperor had again withdrawn into the Z^eiwin-^l
A'^an, And now seated ■with & ama-W cude o( odurtuj^l

Akbar
i beU^^
< bet^H
tmi^^H

ight^H

ndedfl^

Fattehpur-Sikri, 83

around him, he reclined back on his cushions to listen
to an old man with a white beard, who was going to
give an oriental vei-sion of the Ring of Polycrates :

" * There was once a king,' began the old man, * very
rich, very powerful, very just and wise. He had thou-
sands thousands of soldiers, lakhs of cavalry, an in-
numerable multitude of servants. This king also had
a very wise vazir, of high birth, noble mien, extensive
learning : Kustum in battle, Solyman on the judgment
seat, without peer in the days gone by, and wholly
unmatched by men of the present day. This vazir
had a daughter of exquisite beauty, sharp intellect,
gentle disposition ; a nightingale in voice, a cypress in
stature, a partridge in her gait. The plenty of the
morning lay on her cheek, and the blackness of mid-
night in her raven hair ; a Zuleikha ! a Leila ! hoo, hoo !
cried the old man in great enthusiasm.*

" Then he told the tale of the ring. Substantially
the same as the Ring of Polycrates, a tale which has
wandered over many lands. Whether from east to west
or from west to east, we must leave Professor Liebrecht
to decide. But the moral which it enforces in Herodo-
tus, namely, that it is impossible to avert the envy of
the gods from overgrown prosperity, is a purely Greek
notion, and quite dissonant to oriental ideas.

" More stories succeeded to this ; and when at length
the old man's voice ceased, after the last tale, no appro-
bation followed.

* And if ye marvel Charles forgot
To thank his tale, he wondered not —
The king had been an hour asleep.'

** However, the complete hush, after the long flow of
animated words, awoke the emperor, and, bidding
farewell to his friends, he moved off into the khwahgah
for the night.

" All is dark and silent— rising from tl\ft civfc^ ^\Kv^aX»
the few specks of light beneath come t\i^ crv^ c\Jl ^^\A2a-

Hafidbook to Agra,

men ; while from the darker mystery beyond l^a
swell faintly and dismally the hark of jackals, and ttW
sudden yelp of fiercer beaHts. A night breeze blowi!
^^^ over one, like that dreary wind, which in Moslem beUe^
^^^JB to pret;ede the day of judgment. Why is there
^^^Kterror — such awful forlorness in its moan. ! Tbe t
^^^rbig with doom t The scene we have witnessed
^^H'ia to pass nob by the common operations of change an
^^Btime, but in blaukness and darkness away."

BHURTPOOR.*

As it 19 a very usual conclueion to a visit to Fatt«hptll
tor tbe traveller to proceed by way of Bhurtpoor t4
Mottra, a short account of that route may be heti
added, taken chiefly from Captain Walter's Qazetteer.

The area of the Bhurtpoor State is nearly 2,00^
square miles, tlie length from north to south Dein^ 7ff
jmiles, and the breadth 48, with large ranges of bills, that
highest of which ib 1,357 feet above the level of dij
leea. Tbe soil is chiefly a light loam with a tendency 1i
'laecome sandy near the rirers. None of these Btresa
navigable, and they usually dry up about M
months after the cessation of the periodical rains. XI
population is about 376 to the square mile, of wbich f
per cent, are Hindus. The total annual income of 'A
state is about a quarter of a million of our moD^,
which fully four-fifths are derived from the land. Tl
state is well administered, taxation being light, ai
much done for the comfort and well-being of the peoj
in tbe way of irrigation works, hospitals, and schoo
The majority of the people are of the same tribe ss t
bulk of the Sikhs : the famous J£,t race of which I

Bhurlpoor. 85

. funch has been said and so little verified. They are
believed to be a wave of the immigration from Centra.1
Asia that was so long poured upon North-Weat India,
bul hare now become iu manners, language, and religion
almost identicoj with the Kajpats and other Hindus
whose ancestors entered the country at a still earlier
date.

The ruling family indeed lays claim to a Rajput origin.
Be this as it may, it first emerges into historical light
in the person of Churaiaan, a robber chief who became
powerful under the patronage of the celebrated 9ynd
ministers of Furokhsir about 1720, about four years
after the same administration had e'itablishod the East
India Company in Bengal. The grandnephew of Chura-
man was Suruj Muil, who founded the city of Bhurt-
poor, and ruled there about the middle of the last century.
From that time till the dissolution of the last framework
of the Moghul Empire, ^uruj Mull and his descendants
eontinued a gu(t8{-independence (like that of the old
electors of the German Holy Roman Empire) until
brought into contact with the British in 1803. The
atate was then somewhat reduced in power and resources.
Fresh troubles in 1825 led to the active exercise of the
British protectorate ; and the late rajah died when his
son was only two years old. British officers have had
an opportunity during the long ensuing minority of
developing the capacities of the state into what we see
it now. The principal trade is the production of salt by
evaporation and its exportation to British territory.

The town is surrounded by a mud wall with a ditch,
aow nearly dried up. The fort is at the north-east
extremity, and is memorable for having for more than
sis weeks held at bay General Lake, tJie conqueror of
Hindustan. It must of course be added that this ill-
success on Lake's part was due less to the strength of
the place than to the failure of the General to provide a
proper siege-apparatus, arising proba-bVy ^totx^ m^ «,'x.(:«:i«^
of eooSdence begotten by the auceesa ot tXe tftcevx. ton.'p

Bandhook to Agra. \

in at Alignrh. As soon ns the battering 1
wag in complete readineae, and the Bengal army prep
for a renewal of the siege, the rajah made his submis
handinft over the keys of the fort, and suffering a pfiM
ty of je200,000, and the loss of a part of his territoi;
Twenty-three years later. Lord Combermere attsek
the fort, which had been occupied by an usurper, ai
replaced the rightful heir after blowing up a bastioaai
" iking the place by storm. On this second occaaion ti
ritish underwent a loss tbat was comparatively triQii^
'hile 6,000 of the garrison are estimated to have 1

The extreme length of the town including the tort :
a mile and-a-ha!f, the extreme breadth nearly aa gn
The town is prosperous, oootaining a population of <i
60,000. Many of the Btreets are paved, and there t
itwo handsome Hindu temples, one of which bos a lar
'town clock. The Government has also built a fi
mosque for the use <if its Mahomedan subjects. T
markets are clean, well supplied, and orderly. T
palace contains a magnificent stone staircase. And
fine suite of rooms laid out and fumLshed in the Eur
pean style. In this the rajah receives his Knropea
(tisitors, and gives dinner parties to guests from neigl
,tx)uriDg stations.

many years past, the Rajahs of Bhurtpoor
had aeurious private manufactory of ehowria (fly-brnahs
resembling in shape thot^e of yak's tails, so conmu
in Northern India, but made in this instance oat t
pieces of sandal-wood and of ivory. Each cAoM?rii*
fully carved out of a single piece, and the art is con
to a few families in the service of the Maharajah, wl
keep it a strict secret.

From Bhurtpoor is a journey of 21 miles to ]
The road is metalled and kept in good repair, '
senta much to remind the traveller that he is m _

in British territory. Growths of babul (the gum-arabit
pia6/u/-a»h(the tamarisk), with its\atcli-V\te ioUo-ge, £i '

Deeg. 87

the fields, attesting the dryness of the soil ; men on foot
and on horseback pass, clad in winter in the dark-green
coats of quilted cotton so favoured by the Jats, and
often carrying matchlocks and native sabres. Peafowl
and other tame birds feed by the roadside ; and the
traveller could scarcely repress the thought that man is
the only game permitted to be shot in the Bhurtpoor
territory, were it not that the undefended state of the
village, the valuable ornaments of the women, and the
peaceful trains of bullock-carts laden with goods and
journeying without guards, tell him that the armed men
he has met are only armed for show. Half-way the
road goes through the ancient town of Kumbher, once
a strong place of the old Thakurs, and still containing a
fortified palace on a slight eminence.

DEEG.*

Arriving at Deeg, the visitor is ushered into the palace
of Suruj Mull. The town and fort have been the seat of
several severe struggles, having been taken after a stub-
born fight and a protracted defence in 1775 by the
Moghul army under Nujuf Khan ; and again in Novem-
ber 1804, when the British defeated Holkar under the
walls of Deeg in what was considered by Lake the
hardest fought battle of the war. In the following
month, having chased Holkar out of the Doab, Lake
returned to Deeg, where a portion of the Mahratta
leading men had sheltered themselves, and delivered a
night assault before which they fled, evacuating the fort
on Christmas day.

Outside the fort is the palace, an extensive quadrangle
of garden-houses mostly built of buff stone richly carved,
and so well cared for that they look as if only finished

* Vide note on BhurtpooT, p. ^

Handbook to Agrc

yesterday. There are four principal building?, the G
Bhuwun, the Nund Bhuwim, the Sawun Bhadun —
aummerhouse betweeu the gardea and a large reserved
with bathing-ghata — and lastly, the large and ai
range of buildings called Kishun Bhuwun and Sun
Bhuwuo. The Kishun Bhuwun ia aacred to Sri Kiaba
or Krishna, the liero of the country round, and th
Mund to his foster father; while the Suruj Bhuwun,
building of white marble, is the original building of Burn
Mull. The Maharajah hospitably places the Gopol E'
wun at the disposal of travellers under a tew very ^mpl
conditions which no gentleman would desire to violate.
The palace of Deeg haa been generally and deservedl]
commended. It is one of the few native dwelling
which would be appreciated in Europe ; because, i
out losing its Eastern grace and wealth of'ornament, t
is also adapted to Western notions of cleanliness a.
comfort. The water-works are abundant and skilfa
and the garden well stocked with fruit trees. Ferffnaso
.^I, 603) commends the architecture "forgrandeu
lOOnception and beauty of detail." " The glory of De
'proceeds this author, " consists in ttie coruicefl w'
are generally double, a peculiarity not seen elaewhei
and which for extent of shadow and richness of det(
surpass any similar ornaments in India either in anciei
or modern buildings. The lower cornice is the luui
eloping entablature" (which in Fattehpur-Sikri, vii

srip., haa been called 'dripstone') "The uppi

cornice which was horizontal is peculiar to Deeg, &a
seems designed to furnish an extension of the fli
root,"

The gardens and gh&ts are haunted by troops <
screaming peafowl, and clouds of wild blue pigeon
inhabit the earea of the palace and breed in the walls i
the fort. The town contains a population of near]
17,000 souls, and has a good school and a dispenaai
supported by the Maharajah's government.

From Deeg to Govai-dhan ia a\Knit e\g\vt miiw., «

Govardhan, 89

leads once more into British territory. As Govardhan,
however, contains the monuments of his race, the Maha-
rajah is anxious to have it placed under its own manage-
ment ; and as he is after all only a delegate of the
British, there seems no objection to his receiving this
small piece of territory in exchange for an equivalent
from that now in his charge. The people will not in
either case be losers, for the general principles of British
administration will continue to apply to both.

GOVARDHAN.

At Govardhan there are two masonry tanks of consi-
derable extent, both surrounded by temples, tombs, and
bathing-gh4ts. In the autumn feast of the diwdli, it is
a charming spectacle to see them illuminated by night,
while thousands of people throng the lofty steps. On the
eastern side of one of these reservoirs is the chuttri of
Buldeo Sing, the grandfather of the present rajah, and
in the building nearest the water is a curious painted
roof, almost as full of figures as the famous Tintoret of
the Venetian Ducal Palace, though it need hardly be
added in a far different style of art. Here is to be seen
Lord Lake on his elephant encouraging his men to
storm the defences of Bhurtpoor ; the Thakur Runjit
Sing crowned with the sun calmly smiles at their vain
efforts ; while his ally Jeswunt Rao Holkar, presiding
at a nautch in the fort, informs his followers, that, what-
ever may be going on outside, he really cannot be dis-
turbed. At the back the valiant Jats are sabring the
British artillery men at their guns, while Lake's second
in command, in hat and feathers, sits dejectedly in his
tent door and confers with a native attendant.

One mile further eastward in the depth of a wild
wooded country is the chuttri of Suruj Mull, the virtual
founder of the Bhurtpoor State (d. 1763). It is &
beautiful building of the kind described \ys[ ^\t.'^^x^^-
Bon (II, 601-2), supposed to mark tbe s^^ -^V^t^ ^^^

(

IlandboU- to ylffl

Thakut'a ashes were deposited . On every bMb «rf q
reservoir that fronts it, hiiudfiome landiiig-places mn e
into the still water with deep and widestuiruasesbetwee
a venerable banyan tree {jlctu Indiea) shades the &
side, and sends its pendant shoots towards the water:
apes swarm on its boughs, and from time to time a king-
feher quivers his flashing colours oTer the lake before
he strikes a flsh, or a great crane makes a swoop from
one aide of the woods to the other. The spot if
]ar in its repose, its silence, and its irregular
This is the Kuaam-sarovar. or "Lake of Flowers,"
of the stations in the ban-jatra or autumn perambula^
of the groves sacred to Krishna and his companions.

following description,* no less graphic
learned, is borrowed from Mr. Growae —

the borders of the parish of Radahktmd I
larovar, or 'The Flowery Lake,' a magnifit
sheet of water, 460 feet square with broad flight of atat
steps broken up on each side by projecting arcades a
elegant design into one wide central and four smaller
lateral ghats. A lofty terrace runs the whole length of
' 'e, having its front relieved with two-storied
kiosques and alcoves of varied outline, and bears ti
stately tombs of Suruj Mull, the founder of the pre
Bhurtpoor dynasty, and hia two queens, Hansijal
Kishori. From this point rough fragments of rock c
up above the surface of the soil, and form the beginning
oE the celebrated range of Uovardhan, Glri-raj or the
Royal Hill, as it is generally styled. About the centre
of the line stands the town of Govardhan, clustering
round a vast irregularly shaped tank, called the Mansi
Ganga. Here a great fair, known as the Dipdan, or
Offering of Lamps,' is held every year on the festival ol

' Asiitic Soeiotj of Ben^l, XI, p. 1.
i Hanij-ganj, on the banks of -Jumuna, immsdiateljr i_^
iM atburn, was foutidacl by this Ruat. in cuuseiiuBiice af a divemon^
toe road wbicb oDc^e pssseii througb it. It is m
'loJy of all spsctacJoa— a raodom tuin.

-storie d
ears ^jj^|
presfl^H

yat<;a
>ckcni^B

Muttra, 91

dewalli about the beginning of the cold season, and is
frequently attended by as many as 100,000 visitors. On
the bank stand two sumptuous monuments in memory
of two of the late Rajahs of Bhurtpoor ; and from a
rising ground opposite frowns the ancient temple of
Harideva, the most solemn and imposing, save one, of
all the religious buildings in Upper India. The pilgrims
visit in order all the sacred sites in the neighbourhood.
Many of the incidents to which the attention of the
pilgrims is directed in the course of the perambulation
refer to Krishna's amours with Radha, and accordingly
have no place in the original Pauranik legends, where
Radha is barely mentioned even by name. It would
seem that the earliest literary authority for these popular
interpolations is no Sanskrit work whatever, but a Hindi
poem, entitled the Braj Bilas, written by one Brajbasi
Das, so recently as the middle of last century. He
represents his work as derived from the Puranas, which,
except in the main outlines, it certainly is not ; and as
he mentions no other source of information, it may be
presumed that he had none beyond his own invention
and some floating local traditions which he was the first
to reduce into a connected series. A striking illustra-
tion of the essentially modern character of orthodox
Hinduism, despite its persistent claim to rigid inflexibi-
lity and immemorial prescription."

MUTTRA.*

A JOURNEY of about fourteen miles more terminates at
Muttra (Mathura), the birthplace of Krishna and the
scene of his early adventures. Here like Apollo with
Admetus, the son of Devaki, the Deipara of Hindu
mythology, tended herds and sported with the nymphs.
Every spot of any consequence is sacred, and the names

* Vide note on Bhurtpoor, p. ^^.

Bandbook to A'jra.

of the toWDB and villages e.r% often given fay Asmt
Hindus as ptVEiioiiieDa to their sons. For most of t)i
following particulars the writer is iodebted to ih
District Memoir by Mr. F. 8. Growse, which ehoold b
consulted by all who wish for details.

Modern Hinduiain is a phenomenon of comparativel
abort standing, wore recent for example than
Christianity, Yet just as the last-named system has boc
rowed rites, and even sites, from Judaism and Pa{
ism, BO has the reiigion of the worshippers of Sria
produced survivals from the earlier faiths of the S.
dhists and the Yedic Aryans ; and though tbe flood
Mussalman iconoclasm has poured over India, it ha
left, on receding, the trace of many an ancient landm
It thus happens that Mottra (to use the more f
though barlurous nomenclature of British India HistcvV
though scarcely a century old as a city, offers to til
social geologist numerous strata out of which he mi
illustrate progress and reproduce the past.

We learn from Cfenerai Cunningham that "in A.]
634, the temples of the gods were reckoned by Hwi
Thsang at five only, while the Buddhist monasteri
amounted to twenty, with 2,000 resident monks. T
number of Buddhist monuments was also very gre«
there being no less than seven towers, containing r
of the principal disciples of Buddha. But notwithstau
ing this apparently fiourishing condition of Buddhism, :
is certain thatthe zeal of the people of Mathura must ball
lessened considerably since A.D. 400, when Fa Hia
reckoned the l>ody of monks in the twenty monaBt«rii
to be 3,000, just one-half more than in the time i
Hwen Thsang's visit. The date of Mahmud's invaw
was A.D. 1017, or somewhat less than 400 years afta
It is during these four centuries that we must place lU
only the decline and fall of Buddhism, but its total dl
appearance from this great city. We may infer that ti
votaries of Sakya Muni were expelled by force, and tlu
^^uUdiDga overthrown to f virmaVx mB.tei:\o.\s Iw xAuma q

Muttra. 93

their Brahmanical rivals ; and now these in their turn
have been thrown down by the Mussulmans/'

At Bindrabun (Brinda Yana) hard by, is the curious
cruciform temple of the same Man Singh, described by
Fergusson {ut stip., 600), built about 300 years ago, but
still a fine specimen of modern Hindu art. Both the
towns abound in spfH^imens of more recent date, which
show that the Hindus have an assimilative power and
an eye for form, combined with a deeply tenacious con-
servatism, which maintains their architecture as a living
reality after the art seems to have degenerated or died
in other Aryan countries.*

Everywhere is seen the same reverence for life, re-
spected very properly by the British authorities. At
Govardhan a massive monolith bears a trillingual in-
scription setting forth that Colonel Seymour, C.B., will
punish any soldier who shoots game in the neighbour-
hood. The apes swarm in all the towns, and the peo-
ple willingly share their houses and food with these poor
relations. The sparrows pecking grain in front of shops
in the bazaar will not deign to rise, will scarcely move at
the approach of your foot.

The present city of Muttra is the latest of three that
have existed in the neighbourhood ; and, curiously
enough, it is the only one that stands upon the river
banks. The first city — the " Methora " of the Greeks-
appears to have been on or near the site of the modern
village of Maholi, some four miles to the south of the
modern city, near the Agra Boad. About the time of
the commencement of the Christian era, the city was
standing further north (but still far to the westward of
the present course, at least of the river), where the
temple of Bhutesur and the Jamma Musjid of Aurang-
zeb still mark the situation of the chief Buddhist monas-
teries and temples of those times. How Buddhism fell,
and by whom was founded the modern city, stretching

* Vidt App. A..

■■96 Handbook to Agra.

aa possible, obliterated. Thus, the head-quu
Fagaa Borne became the centre of Latin CbrisUatiita
and thus the favourite seat of the teacher here fa
the birthplace of Yishnu's latest incarnation ftod t
shrine of hia faith, until he in tum made room for d
untenaated sanctuary of Islam.

" Whatever the changes in the national religi
city of Matbura has continued from remotest antiqoi
the chosen centre of Hindu devotion. When Buddhifl
prevailed throughout India, the votaries of Sakya Mil
■were drawn from the far distant realm of China t
its sacred shrines ; and when the temples of Bnddha n
swept away by the torrent of Pauranik Brahmat
the desecrated sites were speedily occupied by the a
order of divinities. Though the city wos plundered i
all its accumulated wealth by the very first of the great I
Mahomedan invaders, the sacred edifices themselves
survived, and for a period of 700 years continued to be
enriched with successive donations, till Aurangzeb, tlie
last and most fanatical of the Delhi emperors, razed
every stone to the ground, built mosques ■with the
materials, and abolished the very name of the city,
changing it from Mathura to Islamabad. But the humi-
liation was of abort continuance; after the death of
Aurangzeb and the virtual extinction of the empir«i
first ensued a period of anarchy in which neither Hindu
nor Mussulman had the power to crush his neighbour,
and then the tolerant sway of Great Britain, under which
both are equally protected. Thus, in the present day after
the lapse of a century and half from the period of iba utt ac
ruin, though the temples have lost the charm of a "^
quity, nor can boast the normous wealth which t
enjoyed in the days of the great Indo-Scy thian sovereigi
Eanisbka and Huvishka and their successors till t
invasion of Mahmud, yet ihe holy city has no lack 4
stately buildings, with which, as described of old in tl
Harivanaa, it rises beautiful as the crescent moon i
> the dark stream of the Jumna.

Muttra. 97

" According to Hindu topography, the town forms the
centre of a circuit of 84 kos, called the circle of ' braj '
or * brajmandal' This word braj also means in the first
instance * a herd ; ' the noun being derived from the
root vraj, * to go,' and acquiring its signification from
the fact that cattle are always on the move and never can
remain long on one pasture ground. Hence it arises
that, in the earliest authorities for Krishna's adventures,
both Vraja and Gokula are used to denote not the
definite localities now bearing those names, but any
chance spot temporarily used for stalling cattle : in atten-
tion to this archaism has led to some confusion in
assigning sites to the various legends.

" The perambulation commences in Bhadon (August
— September) on account of the anniversary of Krishna's
birth being celebrated in that month. The number
of sacred places,* woods, groves, ponds, wells, hills
and temples — all to be visited in fixed order, is very
considerable; but the 12 bans or woods, and 24 groves
or upabans, are the characteristic feature of the pilgrim-
age, which is thence popularly called the * Ban-jatra.'
The numbers 12 and 24 have been arbitrarily selected
on account of their mystic significance, and probably
few Hindu ritualists, if asked offhand to enumerate the
24 upabans, would agree precisely in the specification."
\Grow8e.

The following is the description given by Tavernier
of the temple of Kesava Deo, just before its destruction
by Aurangzeb : —

" The Pagoda op Muttra is one of the most sump-
taous edifices of India, once a place of great resort for
pilgrimSy who now go there no more ; the heathen hav-
ing lost their devotion for the place since the Jumna
has removed its bed to half a league away. For after
bathing it takes them now too long to return to the

• There are said to be 5 hills, 11 rocks, ^ \aVea, %\ ^otA», wA
12 weU^.

^^ tea

Handbook Co /gra.

temple, and they might enconnter sometliing wiw
would render them impure upon the road.

" The huilding is , . . . very elevated and n
. ficent, built of a. red stone quarried near Agra, and IM
— in most of the buildinp of that city and of NewD«u
I " The pagoda, then, is seated on a great platform i
~Octagonal shape with revetments of hewn atone a
rounded with two bands of ecnlptured animals, ohi
apes, one being 2 feet abOTe the ground, the other'
high as the platform. Two staircases of 15 — 16 Bb
each lead to the top, the steps only broad enough .
one pei'son to mount at a time. The pagoda only I
half the platform, the rest being an open place in "
It ia cruciform like other buildings of the aort, a
the middle is a great dome, with two smaller ones
L'tho sides. From top to bottom the exterior is ooTOi
Twith figures of rama, apea, and elephant-a hewn in I
I atone, interspersed with niches containing :
and windows reaching up to the springing of the dog
with balconies to each capable of holding foor penl
covered by little vaults supported on columns. %
monster statues in niches ore contained rotind I
I domes . . . and it is frightful to see such a collects
I of hideous images. The pagoda has but one, and tl
(ft very lofty, porta), flanked by many columns a
Btatues of men and of monsters. The eboir is okM
by a railing made of columna of. stone six inches
diameter, and no one is admitted but the prinoE
Brahmins who obtain entrance by a seuret door."

Having paid a fee of Rs. 2, Tavernier got a sighb
the idol, and thus describes it—

"The Brahmins opened a door in the centre of t
railing on the inner side, and 1 saw 16 feet within
^^H ft Hort of altar covered with old brocade, and the j,
^^Kldol over it. The head was of black marble with irh
^^^Hooked like rubies for eyea. The body and arms w«
^^^■quite concealed by a robe of red velvet. As
^^^mol with a white face was placed at eauh aide."

Bindrahun, 99

Without any great natural advantages, the popula-
tion of the town exceeds 60,000, and some of the in-
habitants are very wealthy ; the Seths (Muttra's chief
traders) return their income at above .£20,000 a year.

BINDRABUK

" Like most of the local names in the vicinity, the
word Brinda Ban is derived from an obvious physical
feature and, when first attached to the spot, signified
no more than the * tulsi grove,' brinda and tulsi being
synonymous terms, used indifferently to denote the
sacred aromatic herb, known to botanists as ocymum
sanctum (^Basil).

"There is no reason to suppose that Brinda Ban
was ever the seat of any large Buddhist establish-
ment ; and though from the very earliest period of
Brahminical history, it has enjoyed high repute as a
sacred place of pilgrimage, it is probable that for many
centuries it was merely a wild uninhabited jungle, a
description still applicable to Bhandir Ban on the op-
posite side of the river, a spot of equal celebrity in
Sanskrit literature. It was only about the middle of
the sixteenth century after Christ, that some holy men
from other parts of India came and settled there and
built a small shrine, which they dedicated to Brinda
Devi. It is to their high reputation for sanctity that
the town is primarily indebted for all that it now pos-
sesses. Its most ancient temples, four in number, take
us back only to the reign of our own Queen Elizabeth :
the stately courts that adorn the river bank and attest
wealth and magnificence of the Bhurtpoor Rajahs date
only from the middle of last century ; while the space
now occupied by a series of the largest and most magni-
ficent shrines ever erected in Upper India, was fifty
years ago an unclaimed belt of jungle and pasture-
ground for cattle. Now that communication baa b^^BCL
established with the remotest parts oi India., ^n^t^ ^^«t
some splendid addition made to \iie auttrvaXAG Xi-t^^

100 Handbook to Agra,

sures of the town ; as wealthy devotees recoji^nize in
the stability of British rule an assurance that their
pious donations will be completed in peckce, and remain
undisturbed in perpetuity.

<' The foundation of all this material prosperity and
religious exclusiveness was laid by the Gosains, who
established themselves there in the reign of Akbar.
The leaders of the community were by name Bupa and
Sanatana from Gaur in Bengal. They were accom-
panied by six others, of whom three, Jiva, Madhu, and
Gopal Bhat, came from the same neighbourhood, Swami
Hari Das from Rajpur in the Mathura District, Hari-
bans from Devaban in Saharanpore, and Byas Hari
Ham from Orcha in Bundelkhund. It is said that, in
1570, the emperor was induced to pay them a visit, and
was taken blindfold into the sacred enclosure of the
Nidhban,* where such a marvellous vision was revealed
to him, that he was fain to acknowledge the place as
indeed holy ground. Hence the cordial support which
he gave to the attendant rajahs when they declared
their intention of erecting a series of buildings more
worthy of the local divinity.

" The four temples commenced in honour of this event
still remain, though in a ruinous and sadly neglected
condition. They bear the titles of Gobind Deva, Gopi
Nath, Jugal Kishor, and Madan Mohan. The first
named is not only the finest of this particular series,
but is the most impressive religious edifice that Hindu
art has ever produced, at least in Upper India. The
body of the building is in the form of a Greek cross,
the nave being 100 feet in length, and the breadth
across the transepts the same. The central compart-
ment is surmounted by a dome of singularly graceful
proportions ; and the four arms of the cross are roofed

* The derivation of this word is a little questionable. It is the
local name of the actual Brinda grove, to which the town owes its
origin. The spot so designated is now of very limited area, hem-
med in on all sides by streets, but protected from further encroach-
ment by a high masonry walL

Bindrahun. 101

by a waggon vault of pointed form not — as is usual in
Hindu architecture — composed of overlapping brackets,
but constructed of true radiating arches as in our
Gothic cathedrals. The walls have an average thickness
of 10 feet, and are pierced in two stages, the upper stage
being a regular triforium, to which access is obtained
by an internal staircase. At the east entrance of the
nave, a small narthex projects 15 feet ; and at the west
end, between two niches and incased in a rich canopy
of sculpture, a square-headed doorway leads into the
choir, a chamber some 20 feet deep. Beyond this was
the sacrarium, flanked on either side by a lateral chapel;
each of these three cells being of the same dimensions
as the choir, and like it vaulted by lofty dome. The
general effect of the interior is not unlike that produced
by St. PauPs Cathedral in London.

"Under one of the niches at the west end of the
nave is a tablet with a long Sanskrit inscription. This
has unfortunately been much mutilated, but enough
remains as record of the fact that the temple was built
in Sambat 1647, i.e., A.D. 1590, under the direction
of the two Gurus Rupa and Sanatana. The founder.
Rajah Man Sinha, was a Kachhwaha Thakur, son of
Rajah Bhagawan Das of Amber, founder of the temple
at Govardhan, and an ancestor of the present Rajah of
Jeypur. He was appointed by Akbar successively gov-
ernor of the districts along the Indus, of Kabul, and of
Bihar. By his exertions, the whole of Orissa and
Eastern Bengal were re-annexed ; and so highly were his
merits appreciated at court, that though a Hindu, he
was raiscKi to a higher rank than any other officer in the
realm. He married a sister of Lakshmi Narayan,
Rajah of Kuch Bihar, and at the time of his decease,
which was in the 9th year of the reign of Jahangir, he
had living one son, Bhao Sinha, who succeeded him
upon the throne of Amber, and died in 1621 A.D.*

* Vide Professor Blochmann's Ain-i-Akhariy p. 341.

Handbook to Aqn

^Bo2

^^H "The next temple to he described, vix., tint

^^^K^adan Molian, one of Krisbua'a inuumorable ti

^^^■Vtaads at tbe upper end of ttie town on the river b

^^^ near the Kali Mardao Ghat, where the god trampled (

the head of the great serpent Kali It consista rf

nave 57 feet long, with a choir of 20 feet squ(

west end, and a sanctnary of the same dimensio

•beyond. The total height of the nave would seem
)lave been only about 22 feet, bat its vaulted roof ll
entirely disappeared ; the upper part of the choir tow
has also been destroyed. That surmounting the
riDm is a lofty octagon of curvilinear outline taj
towards the summit; and attached to its south side vi
tower-crowned chapel of precisely similar elevatjc

•and differing only in the one respect that its exten
gnrface is enriched with sculptured panels, while t
other is quite plain.
"The temple of Gopinath, which may be slightly t
earliest of the series, is said to have been built by Rae
JI, a progenitor of the Shaikhawat branch of the Kacl:
waha Thakui

" He accompanied his liege lord, Bajah Man Sinha, (
Amber, against tbe Mewar Rana Pratap, and furt'
distinguished himself in the expedition to KabuL '
date of his death is not known. The temple, of wht
he is the reputed founder, corresponds very closely b
in style and dimenaionB with that of Madan Med
already described ; and has a similar chapel attached
the south side of the sacrarium. It is, however, id
linous condition : the nave has entirely d
Lappeared ; the three towera have been levelled with t
■ roof; and the entrance gateway of the court-yard
r tottering to its fall. The speciai feature of the buildi
IB a curious arcade of three bracket arches, aervi
app 1 m al p p he, but merely add

as an m 1 h hare south wall. T

1 f h d design, elaborata

Wdecora 1 w h a. he \ Ip es", but it ii

a]
cl

Bindrahun. 103

concealed from view by mean sheds which have been
built up against it, while the interior is used as a stable
and the north side is blocked by the modern temple.

"The temple of Jugal Kishor, the last of the old
series, stands at the lower end of the town near the
Kesi Ghat. Its construction is referred to the year
Samhat 1684, t.e., 1627 A.D., in the reign of Jahan^ir,
and the founder's name is preserved as Non-Karan.
He is said to have' been a Chauhan Thakur ; but it is
not improbable that he was the elder brother of Raesil,
who built the temple of Gopinath. The choir, which
is slightly larger than in the other examples, being 25
feet square, has the principal entrance, as usual, at the
east end ; but is peculiar in having also both north and
south, a small doorway under a hood supported on
eight closely-set brackets, carved into the form of ele-
phants. The nave has been completely destroyed.

The great temple, founded by Seth Gobind Das
and Radha Krishan, brothers of the famous millionaire
Lakhmi Chand, is dedicated to Rang Jl, a dakhani title
of Vishnu. It is built in the Madras style, in accordance
with plans supplied by their Guru, the great Sanskrit
scholar, Swami Rangachari, a native of that part of
India, who still presides over the magnificent establish-
ment. The works were commenced in 1845, and com-
pleted in 1851, at a cost of 45 lakhs of rupees. The
outer walls measure 773 feet in length by 440 in breadth,
and enclose a fine tank and garden in addition to the
actual temple-court. This latter has lofty gate-towers,
or gopuras, covered with a profusion of a coarse sculp-
ture. In front of the god is erected a pillar, or dhwa-
jastha stamba, of copper gilt, 60 feet in height and also
sunk some 24 feet more below the surface of the ground.
This alone cost Rs. 10,000. The principal or western
entrance of the outer court is surmounted by a pavilion,
93 feet high, constructed in the Mathura style after the
design of a native artist. In its gracei\x\ o\sA\Ya«e. «cl^
the elegance of its reticulated tracery , \\. '^t^^«xx\» ^ ^\jc^-

^^Hbui

g<)4 HandbooJc to Affra.

ing contrast to the heavy and misshapen, mosses ot
Madras Gopura, which rises immediately in front of
A little to one side of the entrance is a, detached ehi
in which the god's ralk, or carriage, is kept. It ia
j.enormoua wooden tower in aeveral stages, with monstrc
'Afiigies at the corners, and is hrought out only once'
'^ear in the month of Chait during the festival of t
BrahmotsaT, The mela lasts for ten days, on each
which ihe god is taken in state from the tenipla alo
the road, a distance of 690 yards to a garden, yrht
a pavilion has been erected for his reception. T
procession is always attended with torches, mnaio ai
'■incense, and some military display contributed by t
(Eajah of Bharatpnr ; and on the closing day, when, on
the rath is used, there is a grand show of fireworl
which people of all classes congregate from long d
tances to see. The image, composed of the eig
metals, is seated in the centre of the car, with attenda
Brahmans standinj^ beside to fan it with chauries. EiB
of the Seths, with the rest of the throng, gives an iM
sional hand tothe ropes by which the ponderous maohi
is drawn ; and by dint of much exertion, the distai
ordinarily accomplished in the space of about t
id-a-half hours.

The town of Maha Ban is sotue five or six n
from Mathura, lower down the stream and on
opposite bank of the Jumna. It stands a little
about a mile distant from Gokul, which latter place)
appropriated the more famous name, though it is
reality only the modem water-aide suburb of the anca
town.

" Maha Ban, the true Gokul, is by legend closi
CNtunected with Malhura; for Krishna was born at tl
one and cradled at the other. Both, too, make th<
first appearance in history together and under mo
unfortunate circumstances as sacked by Malimud
Qhazui in the year 1017 A.D. YtoYn Ui« effects at th

Bindrahun, 105

catastrophe, it would seem that Maha Ban was never
able to recover itself. It is casually mentioned in con-
nection with the year 1234 A.D., by Minhaj-i-Siraj, a
contemporary writer, as one of the gathering places for
the imperial army sent by Shams-ud-in against Kali n jar ;
and the Emperor Babar, in his memoirs, incidentally
refers to it, as if it were a place of some importance
still, in the year 1526 A.D. ; but the name occurs in the
pages of no other chronicle ; and at the present day,
though it is the seat of a Tahslli, it can scarcely be
called more than a considerable village.

" By far the most interesting building is a covered
court called Nanda's Palace, or more commonly the
Assi Khamba, i.e., the Eighty Pillars. It is divided by
five rows of sixteen pillars, each into four aisles, or
rather into a centre and two narrower side aisles with
one broad outer cloister. The external pillars of this
outer cloister are each of one massive shaft, cut into
many narrow facets, with two horizontal bands of carv-
ing, the capitals are decorated either with grotesque
heads, or the usual four squat figures. The pillars of '
the inner aisles vary much in design, some being exceed-
ingly plain, and others as richly ornamented with pro-
fuse and often graceful arabesques. Three of the more
elaborate are called respectively the Satya, Dwapar, and
Treta Yug ; while the name of the Kali Yug is given to
another somewhat plainer. All these interior pillars,
however, agree in consisting as it were of two short
columns set one upon the other. The style is precisely
similar to that of the Hindu colonnades by the Qutb
Minar at Delhi ; and both works may reasonably be
referred to about the same age. As it is probable that
the latter were not built in the years immediately pre-
ceding the fall of Delhi in 1194, so also it would seem
that the court at Maha Ban must have been completed
before "the assault of Mahmud in 1017 ; for after that
date the place was too insignificant to b^ ^^\fc^\fc^ ^^
the Bite of 80 eJaborate an edi^c€>. TYcvx&^^t^^^'^d'^

Handbook to Agra,

^Bo6

^^^bonjecbure is coufinnetl that the Delhi piJi
^^^ttBcribed to the ninth or tenth century. Another 1<
^^^nnooted point may also be considered as almost definiti
^^■ly set at rest, for it can scarcely be doubted that t
pillars a& they now stand at Maha Ban occupy th(
original position. PergusBOn who was unware oi tlw
existence, in bis notice of the Delhi cloister, doat
whether it dow stands as originally atranged by t
Hindus, or whether it had been taken down and i
arranged by the conquerors ; but ooncindes as mo
probable that the former was the case, and that it
an open colonnade surrounding the Palace of P
B,aj. 'If so,' he adds, 'it is the only instance knoii
of Hindu pillars being left undisturbed.' Oener
Cunningham comments upon these remarks, finding
utterly incredible that any architect, designing an origii
building and wishing to obtain height, should have
course to such a rude expedient as constructing tn
distinct pillars, and then without any di^gaise piling t
one on the top of the other. But however extroordinai
the procedure, it is clear that this is what was done i
Maha Ban, as is proved by the outer row of column
■which are each of one unbroken shaft, yet precisely tl
same in height as the double pillars of the inner aisle
The roof is flat and perfectly plain except in two eon
partments, where it is cut into a pretty quasi-dome i
concentric multifoil circles. Mothers come liere for the
purification on the sixth day after childbirth — ekhot
puja — and it is visited by enormous crowds of peM)
for several days about the anniversary of Kri^hni
birth, in the month of Bhadon. A representation '
the infant god's cradle is displayed to view, with fa
foster-mother's churn and other dojnestio articles, Ti
place being regarded not exactly as a temple, bat i
Nanda and Jassoda'a actual dwelling-house, Europew
are allowed to walk about in it with perfect freedoi
Considering the size, the antiquity, the artistic exaellenc
~the exceptional ai'chieological inteYeat, the celebril

^2*^^

The Moghul Empire, 107

amongst natives, and the close proximity to Mathura of
this building, it is perfectly marvellous that it found no
mention whatever in the archaeological abstract prepared
in every district by orders of Government a few years
ago, nor even in the costly work compiled by Lieutenant
Cole, the Superintendent of the Archaeological Survey,
which professes to illustrate the architectural antiquities
of Mathura and its nighbourhood.

" Let into the outer wall of the Nand Bhavan is a
small figure of Buddha ; and it is said that, whenever
foundations are sunk within the precincts of the fort,
many fragments of sculpture — of Buddhist character, it
may be presumed — have been brought to light; but
hitherto they have always been buried again, or broken up
as building materials. Doubtless Maha Ban was the site
of some of those Buddhist monasteries, which the
Chinese pilgrim Fa Hian distinctly states existed in his
time on both sides of the river. And further, whatever
may be the exact Indian word concealed under the form
Klisoboras, or Clisobora, given by Arrian and Pliny
as the name of the town between which and Mathura
the Jumna flowed — Amnis Jomanes in Gangem per
Palihothros decurrit inter oppida Methora et Clisobora,
Pliny, Hist. Nat. vi, 22 — it may be concluded with
certainty that Maha Ban is the cite intended." — [Groivse.']

HISTORY OF THE MOGHUL EMPIRE.

[This brief abstract is intended to connect the scones described
in the Guide with the annals of the empire which gave them their
interest. For further particulars the reader may be referred to
Elphinstone, and to a work by the present writer.]

The so-called Moghul Empire of Hindustan (more pro-
perly, the Empire of the Chaghtai Turks) dates only
from the time of our Henry the \ III, when Agra was
taken from the Afghan House of Lodi, on the 10th May
1526. The victor was Sultan Babar, Prince of the small
but fertile district now called Kokand. Hft ^i!vs» \kv^
sixth in descent from Tamerlane, oi t\i^ Cj\x».^^»"^\ \»t^^

108 Handbook to Agra,

of Turks ; but his mother was a Moghul lady descend-
ed from the other great Tartar leader Chenghiz Khan,
and hence the name by which the family is known.

Babar often resided at Agra, and his great and de-
cisive battle with the Rajputs took place near Sikri in
1527. He constructed several works of use and plea-
sure there, and after his death his remains rested in the
neighbourhood, until the time came for them to be taken
to Kabul. Full particulars of Babar's history can be
obtained by readers of his most delightful autobiography
translated by the late Mr. Erskine. Few monarchs have
ever made such confessions, and none has made any so
calculated to endear the writer to his readers. The hair-
breadth escapes and adventures of his unfriended youth,
the campaigns of his maturer life, are blended with re-
cords of the enjoyment of scenery, descriptions of drink-
ing bouts, repentances, exaltations, and depressions
such perhaps as make the reader feel his kinship with the
Tartar General of a bye-gone day nearer than with many
an impostor one's own contemporary.

Babar died at Agra, in 1530, Ruler-in-Chief of all the
territories of Hindustan and Kabul, from the Hindu-
Kush to the borders of Bengal. He was succeeded by
his son Humayun, who, though not destitute of ability,
was fated to exhibit some of the inferiority almost
inherent to one born and brought up in an assured great-
ness than he has done nothing to earn. Besides quar-
rels with his brothers, Humayun ere long became involv-
ed in disputes with the Afghan settlers of Bihar, and in
1539 was driven out of that province and forced to retreat
rapidly to Agra almost alone. In the following year
Humayun suffered another defeat in an encounter with
Sher Shah, near Kanouj, in consequence of which he
left Agra with the portable part of his treasures and be-
took himself to Sindh. Here he married a Persian lady
named Hamida Begum, and in 1542 she bore him a
son, afterwards the Emperor Akbar, at a place on the
Indus called Aiuarkot.

The Moghul Empire, 109

Humdyun after many wanderings ultimately recovered
Hindustan as much by luck as by management, and
died from an accidental fall from a building still shown
in a part of old Delhi, near which he was buried. His
mausoleum with its high plinth, its pointed arches, and
its marble domes, may be regarded as the model of the
Taj. The minarets at the four corners of the terrace
which make so conspicuous a feature of the latter edifice
were not suggested by anything at Delhi. Cunningham
is of opinion that they were borrowed from Sher Shah's
tomb at Sasseram in Bihar.

For a clear though concise account of the state of the
empire at the time of Humayun's death, the reader
must be referred to Elphinstone's admirable History of
India, Book VIII, Chap. II, where he will find all that
is likely to interest him as to the king's tenure of office,
the duties of his ministers, his powers and method of
administration, his army, the state of the law and of
the church, the superstitions of the age, the position of
the Hindus, and the very small extent to which they
had embraced the religion of their conquerors. T?he
revenue system is believed to have been much the same
as what now exists, and the state of the people in gene-
ral to have been fairly prosperous and comfortable ; for
the latter statement the testimony of contemporary tra-
vellers, some of them Europeans, is fortunately forth-
coming. Sher Shah, the interrex of Hum^yun, intro-
duced the rupee, which was adopted by his successors
the Moghuls, and is the basis of that now in use. The
architecture of those days was the Pathan type described
by Fergusson (IT, 646 — 696,* and amongst the Hindus)
the various styles still prevailing, though entirely without
arches and, generally, without the admixture of Maho-
medan details now all but universal. The invading
Musalmans were stout ruddy men, resembling the modem
Afghans. They wore cloth coats, tight trousers, armour,

* Fic^tf also iTi/ra, p. 17d,

illO Hamihoak to Agra.

and boots. The subsequent assimilation to Hindu m«n-
nera and costume was initiated by Akbar. It v/wi
about this time that thf language known as Urdu or
Hiudnstani first became popular ; and it is stated that
the earliesE work in this mixed speech was written at
Jaipur at the time to which we are referring.

In 1556, Akbar, then only fourteen years of age,
ascended the throne under the auspices of a powerful
minister, from whose dictation he was only able to get
free by the most atrenuous exertions. These exertions,
were of vital importance, forced upon him as
they were at such an early age. It was owing to them
that his character became hardened and developed ; and
to them and to the general circumstances undei' wliich
he gradually established his power he was indebted for
the ultimate prosperity of his reign. Prom the fall of
Bairam Khan in 15C0 commenced the era, short but
grand, of the Moghul empire in its palmy state. The
young ruler was the first to see that, if he would rule
thq Hindus, he must not treat the Musalmans as favored
foreigners, but must blend all his subjects into a common
nationality, with cominon rights and privileges. It was
then that the foreigners of Akbar's own creed were
made to feel the weight of his hand ; and he himself by
cutting off all connections with Central Asia and inter-
marrying with the Kuchwaha House of Araber (Jaipt;
pointed out the paths of concord in which his lodil
subjects, of wiiatever origin, were henceforth to vol
Akbar is the planter of that still backward growtU
Indian nationality. Under him also arose a new ore
and a new architecture ; the former destined to f
the latter a thing which has not perhaps yet come «
maturity {vide App. A).

The next seven years were occupied in campR)^
against various enemies of the new regime, Hindu ni
Musalman ; and in 1568 the celebrated Fort of C^iitt
was taken, and the gates were transported to the lia
ForC at Agra, where tliej are st.iil W> \>e aB«ti,

The Moghul Empire, 111

conquest seems to have powerfully affected the imagina-
tion of Akbar, who at the same time caused the two
colossi to be made which Bernier saw at Delhi a century
later, but which were originally placed on guard in front
of the river gate at Agra.* Bernier found them com-
plete, ** two great elephants of stone . . . ; upon one of
them the statue of Jumel (Jai Mull), the famous Rajah
of Chittur, and upon the other that of Poltahf his
brother . . , These two great elephants," adds the lively
traveller, " together with the two resolute men sitting
on them, do at the first entry into the fortress make an
impression of I know not what- greatness and awful
terror." Akbar was fond of elephants at gates ; another
pair will have attracted the attention of visitors to
Fattehpur-Sikri.

Two years later saw the foundation of the palace at
the last-named place and the birth of Jahangir at first
called Sulim after the spiritual, perhaps real, father.
Sheikh Sulim Chishti.

The saint's tomb was built after the emperor's return
from the conquest of Gujerat. 1586 was the year of
BirbuUs death in the north. In this year also Prince
Sulim was married to the daughter of Bhugwan Das of
Amber, his maternal uncle. In the following year he
married another Hindu princess, the daughter of the
Rajah of Jodhpur, hence sometimes known as Jodh-Bai.

* So Cunningham, who thinks this the only way of accounting for
Finch not seeing these statues when he visited Agra in 1611. I find,
however, in Purchas a statement to the effect that Finch did see
something of the sort, not in front of an outer gate at all, but on the
top of one within. After describing a gate to the north, and another
to the west, Finch {apvd Purchas) adds — ''Beyond these two you pass
A second gate over which are two raja'»'8 in stone." It is true he seems
to know nothing of Chittur, saying that they wore slain in the king's
durbar, and he does not mention their being seated on elephants.
Nevertheless a marginal note adds ''by multitudes oppressing were
slain : and here have elephants of stone and themselves figured. All
that can be learned of these statues will be found in the Delhi Hand'
bvoif App. A.

t Spelt Falta hy General Canninghain. The tq&X nsKOi^ S&^^t^X«^.

^^In

12 Handbook to Agra.

In 1592 Bengal was finally settled; tlie same year
witneaaed the birth of Prince Khurrum, son of Jahaugir,
afterwards to succeed as Emperor Shah Jahan. Hib
mother was the abovementioned Jodb-Bai. It was
about this time that the emperor reduced the province
of Sindh, which had been defended against him by »
rebel chief who employed European troops, or at nil
events, what we now call sepoya, infantry dressed and
anned like Europeans. In 1595 an expedition under
Morad, the emperor's second son. was sent against tlie
Mahomedans of the Deccan or Dukhin, and in 1598
the emperor followed in person. In 1601 he returned
to Agra, having left another of his sons, the drunken
Danyalj as viceroy in the south ; and it was in meinory
of this temporary triumph that the emperor about this
time built this magnifl.cent Holwnd Darwaxa at Fatteh-
^ pur. Just before the emperor had the misery to see his
" trusted son, the Crown Prince Sulim, in rebelliun
against him, and poor Abul Fazl, his most intimate
companion, assassinated by that eon's instigation.

Soon the character of Sulim took worse turns still,
His quarrels with his own eldest son Khusru became au
violent that the mother, a near relation of the imperial
family, and daughter of the great Hindu house of
Amber, took poison and died at Allahabad, where her
husband was viceroy. Shortly after, the reckless Dnnyal
fell a victim to delirium tremeru ; and in the midst of
alt these sorrows the splendid Akbar drooped. The
quarrels of his son and grandson, fomented by intri-
guing courtiers, disturbed hia last moments : his once
I Sold intellect was shaken by superstition, and be gave
[vay to the priests and died in the faith of Islam, Octo-
■berlSth, 1605.

Some peculiarities of Akbar's character will appeui
the incidental notices scattered through the aecountel
the buildings in this work. Like most despots ha
wilful and freakish ; unlike most despots he showed
dispomtion to ind ulge his whima at tUa expense of othi

>unte^H

wed ^^1
othedH

ITie Moghtd Empire, 113

Rebels against his government were treated with firm-
ness ; bat a door of conciliation was kept open as long
as possible. Next to his civil administration was bis
religious reform dear to his heart : but he never allowed
it to interfere with politics. Though Hindu and alike
appeared to him as bigots, yet no Musalman nor Hindu
was neglected, if a good minister, on account of his
religion. We see him at his worst at Fattehpur, and it
is not very bad. Granting that a great empire requires
a splendid court, we need not carp at a little eccentricity
or extravagance where everything else was good. At
his best Akbar is a wonderful improvement, not only
on the average of Eastern rulers, but on the average of
rulers in any time or place. His landed settlement,
carried out by his friend and minister Rajah Todur Mull,
was actuated by extreme good judgment and humanity.
Its objects were —

(i) A correct survey of the area and quality of the
soil in each estate.

(ii) An estimate of the value of the produce and a
settlement of the > portion of the said value to be left
respectively to the tiller of the soil and to the state.

The land when surveyed was classified in three
divisions according to its productive powers. The
amount of produce that a certain portion ( called a bigha)
of each class was capable of yielding was then estimated,
an average struck, and one-third settled on the state and
the rest on the cultivators.

The value of the state's share was then to be taken,
calculated upon the average of the prices current for the
past nineteen years, but this commutation was not
annual, but made from time to time. It only applied to
the more valuable sorts of produce — what are still in
some parts of the country known as zubtee or *' liable- to
fise.'* The cereals were grown on simpler terms, the
cultivator being at liberty to claim a division, and cany
off his share, leaving the officers of government to deal
with the rest themselves.

K,f A, H, %

) Afffa,

1114 Bw

It will be seen that the weak point in this sy^Mt^S
not by any means ita harshness on the cultivator, bat a
tendency to tempt him to grow nothing but food-ci
Under the present system where an estate it
a certain sum of money, the proprietors are rnduced.fl
grow what will pay the highest prices. Under Akb«
system if a man preferred to grow such crops he \
certain to have a demand for money made upon bifl
but so long as he stuck to the husbandry of the siinu
kind, be was only liable to have one-third of his whf
niaize, or millet carried off from his field, and he o
cart home the remainder without further trouble.

We have no evidence as to the duration of i
system. Probably it was much relaxed before the s
of the reign of ita founder's dissipated succeaaor.

Besides this Akbar abolished many taxes and fed
he paid his oEScers chiefly in cash, and thus i
much of the oppression entailed by the almost ui
^^^ oriental practice of assigning the revenue of land i
^^^L feoffees and ofiicial grantees, who again employ agents
^^H and fanners, and so discourage and depress the actual
^^^V occupants.

^^B Nor was this active-minded ruler less attentive to the
^^^H control of his own private household. The interesting
^^^1 Aiii of his frieod Abul Fazl give a complete idea of the
^^^P methodical magnificence, the mingled splendour and
^^^ simplicity that formed so marked a feature of Akbar's
character. The first part of Ain Akhari, " Regulations
of Akbar," has been translated with valuable comiaents

I by the late Professor Blocbmann, of the Caleutt*
Madrissit, and gives a minute picture of this truly asto-
nishing rM^.
To complete the present sketch it may be necessary
I to add from contemporaneous European evidence, that
Akbar did in fact actually administer justice daily in
public, standing below the throne on a platform said to
be still preserved in the Dewan-i-Am at Agra ; that b* i
waa frugal, self -controlling, and plain iu his habits, £i<MI

The Moghul Empire. 115

to the useful arts, industrious, and affable. That, with
all this, he was no fribble may be seen from the extent
and completeness of his military conquests, and in some-
important departments of his civil reforms. The church
hierarchy, for instance, was destroyed by him after years
of patient struggle, and none of his successors were
ever able to restore it, though some at least did not
want the will.

The chief buildings of Akbar are: (1) Agra Fort,
(2) Humayun's tomb at Delhi, (3) Fattehpur-Sikri.

Jahdngir is less interesting both in character and
career. Bom in the purple he does not attract us like
his more self-made predecessor. He was a debauchee,
too, and cruel, and had but little of that self-control
which a despot requires if he is to act his part with
dignity and usefulness. Yet his relations with his son
Khusru and his wife Nur Jahdn were alike such as to
render it fit that we should give him the benefit of them
in judging his character. The son was as violent as the
father, and constantly caballing against the government
and person of the emperor, yet the latter often forgave
him and refrained to the last from either killing or injur-
ing him. The wife had reason to suspect the emperor
of the murder of the husband of her youth ; he was a
drunkard, and she had no children by him : yet in spite
of all this the affection of this capable and high-spirited
woman for the emperor knew no bounds. While he
was alive she perilled her life for him ; when he was
dead she mourned him strictly and to the end. It is
fair to assume that Jahdngf r must have had fine qualities.
We know enough of him to understand in part what
these must have been. Like his father he was just and
liberal ; and unlike his father he could conciliate the
orthodox Musalmans without outraging the feelings of
the Hindus. Sir T. Roe's account of Jahangir in his
private hour is most quaint : '* He fell to ask me
questions, how often I drank a day, and lio^ TSl^x^ ^iiv^
what^ What ifl England? What beer ^aa'^ "©.o^xfia^^

Handbook to Agra.

And whether I could make it here 1 In all whicb^fl

satisfied his great demands of stAte." The emperO
tolerant disposition and the bigotry of Sultan £harr4
are well contrasted, and there is an araueing aceonnt J
a quarrel which the ambassador had with the latter^
the occasion of "lones ; his lewdness." Mr. Jones b<
one of the suit« whom they wanted to conv*
Muaalman foUower of Shah Jahdn. Roe eeema t
have recovered him, Coryat observes of Johinglf!
" He likes not those that change their religion, be
himself being of none but o£ his own making, and I
therefore suffers all religions in hia kingdom." T"
numerous wives, One, the Rajputni Princess, I
of Khusru, died, us we have seen, before her bosbs
accession. Professor Blochmann gives a list of no |
than twenty of these ladies. Sultan Khurrum, i
wards successor of Jahangfr under the title of E
Jah^ does not seem to have been own brotberjl
Khusru ; his mother appears to have been Jodh-B
another Rajputni ; there is reason to believe
Jahanglr himself did not always know
mothei's of his sons, but the memoirs of Shah Ja]|
support this conclusion.

The emperor had been, as above mentioned,
recognized as heir by his father shortly before thede<^
of the latter. This is confirmed by the insoription I
the Black Marble Throne that stands on iheterracebt
the Dewan-i-Khas of the Agra Fort. But h
and disrespectful conduct while viceroy at j
disgusted his father, and both his sons Khosm t
Kliurrum had partizans who hoped to make them I
plant their father; but before they could proceed!
extremities, the old man's sense of right and e
had finally pronounced in his eldest son'
These intrigues were thus impeded, and Jab&ngir fl
mately ascended the throne without serious oppoBitl
' October 1605. I

The tew remiuning dates of his reign with wbiob 1

The Moghvl Empire, 117

need concern ourselves are as follows : In the first
year, 1606, Khusru rebelled, but his rebellion was short-
ly and sternly suppressed. In 1607, the second year of
his reign, Jahdngir married the widow of Sher Ufgun, and
daughter of Itmad-ud-Daulah whom he had long loved,
raising her to the throne matrimonial by the title of
Nur Jahan. The new empress was by that time a
middle-aged woman, but he associated her with him in
the government, putting her name on his coin. No-
thing could exceed the attachment that ever afterwards
prevailed between this extraordinary pair.*

In spite of the customary view of women taken by
his co-religionists, Jahangir treated his empress with all
kind of public honours, deferring to her advice and
opinion in all afifairs. First her father and, on his death,
her brother were prime ministers ; and it is even re-
corded that the emperor's private character was so far
reformed that his habits of excessive drinking were
confined to private parties and to the evening hours, t

It was about the same time that the tomb of the late
emperor Akbar was reconstructed at Sikandra, and
(probably) that the Jahdngiri Mahl of the Agra Palace
was built.

In 1610 another war broke out in the Deccan — the
country which Akbar thought he had completely pacified
in 1602.

In 1616 Prince Khurrum, then twenty-four years of
age, was honoured with the title of " Shah," and de-
spatched to Burhanpur as commander-in-chief. The
actual leader of the troops was Abdulrahim, the trans-

* Roe gives a description of Jahangir coming home at Agra
from an evening drive with his wife in a bullock cart, " the king
himself being her carter."

f The in^incts of this great house were monogamous, though
their religion and position led to very different appearances. The
wife of the unhapi)y Khusru insisted on sharing his dungeon, a
dark tower, where, if any of the inmates died d\mx\^ VSci^ ^<«>^\\<i.^
of the emperor, the body could not be "buried \a\\ \>aft waj^wor^^
mtum ; the door being kept always shut.— ^FiucK.")

I 118 Handbook to Ag^-a.

lator of Babar's memoirs ; and the young
about this time espoused hia granddaughter. Besic
her, Shah Jahan abo took two other MoaaJi
wives, one the lady of the Taj, the other a Persian It
whoae tomb ia the Kandhari Bagh at Agra (i
residence of His Highness the Mabarajah of Bburtpoor)

Shah Jahao, then known as Shah Khurrum and n
ed to further honours with the full title that be aft
wards bore as emperor about four years later, wi«l<
the military power of the state. Though thus
tinguished, he passed the stormy years of apprentices!
by which he was to fit himself for empire chiefly
conquering andadminL^tering the kingdoms of the.
About this time Sir T. Boe arrived at court aa t
Bador from James I of England ; and found the ooi
r still very splendid, though the administration of
I provinces had declined from the regularity that obt
under Akbar. The emperor, though revelling ii
most outrageous and maudlin spirit by night, was re-
served and full of dignity in the morning ; the arts of
industry were cultivated with wonderful success, and the
influx of Europeans large. Jah&ngfr seems to have known
a little Italian. RoemenCions his calling out to Khurnun
in full durbar "mio figlio! mio figlio!" when some mis-
nnderstanding appeared between him and the Christians.
The old English travellers are very full of hia having
his nephews christened by the Jesuits, and how the
Christians of Agra, sixty in number, rode in processiou
to the church headed by Gaptian Hawkins carrying
" St. George hia flag for the honour of England."
I There are still a dozen tomba in the Protestant
i Cemetery of Agra of persona who must have come to
India about this time, besides those of Catholics in
Fadritola. The emperor bad figures of Our Lord and
his Mother on the rosary that he usually wore, and had
the sons of his brother Morad brought up as Christians.
^ In 1615 the imprudent and unfortunate Khuaru dii
L tuid was buried by the side o! ^lia vau^.Wi: &!<. &.VI>1&&1

dieJ

' f-n fTiff m

The Moghul Empire. 119

in the garden that still bears her name. Shah Jahan,
though recognized a^i heir-apparent, was not free from
saapiciou as to hia half-brother^a death, but it was never
brought home to him, and there ia little elae in. his con-
duct to justify the iraputatioa o£ ao much treachery.
In 1618 the emperor moved northwards; and mostly
remained in Kuhul, Kashmir, and the Funjah till his
death. His temporary imprisonment by Mohubnt Khan
and the bold and ingenious efforts by which his devoted
wife at last managed his deliverance can. be only alluded
to in this place. The principal extant buildings of this
era are the Tomb at Sikandra, the Mahl in the Agra*
Falace, and the Mausoleum of ttmad-ud-Daulah. In
all of them Hindu influence appears.

On the death of Jahangir, which happened at Rajor,
in October 1627, the eyes of all men were at once
turned to the serious, industrious figure of his son Shah
Jahdn,'* then in disgrace in the Deccan. Khusru'a aon,
one Mirza Bolaki, tried to assume the throne (of which,
according to strict legitimacy, he was heir). But he
was routed and escaped to Persia, where Tavemier re-
lates that he had often met him living very much at his
ease at the king's court. Aaaf Khan throwing off the
yoke of his sister, placed the widowed empress in arrest,
and invited the Frince to Agra where he was at once
proclaimed emperor by the title of Shah Jahcin, that
he had borne so long. His brother, the son-in-law of
Knr Johtin, was killed, and the lady herself compelled
to live in honourable retirement at Lahore, where she
died, and was buried by her husband'a aide in 1648.
Shah Jahan at once displayed that turn for graceful
sumptuousness that was to mark his era. He cele-
brated the auniversary of his accession with extraordi-

" I nsier Bsw Id uitlad a conDteaniiGe, aor noj man keep »
(tant a gT»»ity, novor sirilirig, nor in f aca tliQ^o^ avLi tesi^
lifferance of men ; but raiaeled with axlienie ntvia aoA. n
otofiilL"—(£oi.)

B20 Handbook to Agra.

nary pomp and expense, but was ahortiy after called t
the Deooan by the rebellion of Khan Jahan Lodi. Oi
this expedition he lost hia wife Arjumund Banu, "T"
Exalted of the Palace," a niece of Nur Jahdo's, »
died at Burhanpitr in the end of 1G29. In 1632 th
emperor returned to Agra, where great jmprovemetil
had been for some time going on in the palace, an
where he now commenced the mausoleum of his Ait
ceased wife in a piece of land that had belonged to U
cousin Rajah Man Singh. In 1637 the cclebr&toi
Persian adventurer, Ali Mardan Khan, joined the em
peror's service, and his taste und skill in public work
vere as welcome to bis new master as his talents for wai
It was about this period that the court moved to Dell^
and tbe new palace and cantonment there were begai
which still bear the name of Shah Jahanabad. In IW
the future Emperor Aurangzeb appears for the f
time in history as leader of an expedition to I~
In the following year the Taj buildings were fi
completed.

About this time the Persian King Shah Abbas I!
occupied Kandahar and the surrounding cooatn
Aurangzeb was twice defeated by him : his elder brothfl
Oara Shekoh, the heir<apparent, was then sent at h'
own request, but met with no better fortune. In 16S
the Moti Musjid, or Pearl Moeque of the Agr» Fort, «
completed, and Aurangzeb won laurels in the Decc
thnt replaced those lost at Kandahar. Soon after tfa
four sons of the emperor began to fight for the succa
8)on to their magnificent but now ageing parent. Dturi
above-mentioned, was a man of the stamp of his great
grandfather Akbar, whose religious .system be wi
known to favour, The second and third were mar
men of pleasure, hut Aurangzeb was a cold and era
zealot of the type of Louis the XI, versed in affiui
civil and military. All were by the same mother.* "

L • The Tij Btgum,— l.TaMni.in.'t

The Moghvl Empire. 121

June 1658 the imperial army under the command of
Dara was routed near Agra and the heir-apparent put
to flight by Aurangzeb; three days later the victor en-
tered Agra unresisted ; and soon after Shah Jahan was
deposed,* He continued to live in regal state at Agra,
for the next seven years, the centre of numerous polibical
intrigues that were always detected and baffled by the
sagacious usurper of the Peacock Throne.

The chief buildings of Shah Jahdn were the Mosque
at Agra, Taj, Khas Mahl, Delhi Palace, Jamma Musjid
at Delhi, and Moti Musjid of Agra. They are six capital
specimens of Moghul taste, t

Elphinstone is of opinion that this was the most
prosperous period of native government in India. He
considers that the people were less happy than in an
average modem European country ; but that the reign
of Shah Jahdn will, in that respect, bear a comparisoii
with that of the Roman Emperor Severus. In pomp
and state Shah i Jahan was truly splendid; but all his
magnificence is not known to have caused embarrassment
to his finances. He left large accumulations of coin;
bullion, and jewels. It may be noted that Shah Jahan
discontinued the custom of marriage with Hindu ladies
that had been practised by his predecessors.

His successor Aurangzeb lived for some little time at
Agra. In 1659 the place was threatened by the Rahtur
Rajah of Jodhpur returning from the battle of Rujwa ;
but nothing came of the attack. The luckless Dara
was taken prisoner soon after. He was exposed to pub-

* Tavemier, who was in Hindustan at the time, relates that
after his victory over Dara, Aurangzeb pretended that he believed
his father to be dead, obtained possession of the fort by stratagem
and imprisoned his father and sister. Shah Jah^n died in 1666,
" during my last travel in India." Tavemier sees Juh^nara taken
out of Agra on an elephant, as he then thought with a view to her
being put to death. But he was wrong, and she lived maa^ ^oassk.
in retirement at Delhi.

f Vide tTi/ra, p, 142.

132 Handhoolc to Agra.

^H32

^^^nic gaze at Agra, and the anniversary of AnrangceN

^^^E«ccession was celebrated there in the same year. T1

^^^Bemperor ou that occasion signalised his hypocrisy \

^^^■veeping over the severed head of bis elder brothef

^^Hvho was murdered by his orders and buried in Hiuu^

^^Byun'a tomb at Delhi.

^^H^ Shah Jah^n continued ta be confined in the for^|

^^^ though with signs of outward dignity ; and it is tht

credit of one who generally deserves but little, that tin

new emperor never visited on his father the intrigues o

which injudicious partizana from time to time made hlD

the centre. He died in the palace he had built at Agn

in the month of December 1B66, with the lovely monU

ment he had raised to the wife of his youth glittering tl

•the winter sun, visible from his chamber windows. H
this, as is well known, his body was laid by the aide
ihat of his wife. Auraagzeb's head-quarters hud ee
this been transferred to Delhi, where he destroyed t^
famous elephant statues above-mentioned in connectioi
with the capture of Cbittur. Fruitless campaigns aguns
the Mahrattas and injudicious oppression of the bettefi
ftSected Hindus, vexatious reform andfanaticalfiddte-fad
die marked the rest of this long reign, the last in whidi
the empire of the Timurides was ever to preserve An Kp
pearance of unity or greatness. The temporary show a
success in the campaigns of the Deccan by destroyitt
the Masalman kingdoms of Bijapur and Golcond
removed the last barrier against the rising tide of tb
Mahratta power. Agra became a second class city, tb
residence of a governor who could not always keep i;
check the neighbouring Jats ; the emperor grew old Cl
away in the South, and when he died there in 1707 th
empire soon began tlie downward course which th
present writer has traced in his work on the subjec
{Fall of the Mogktii Empire) irom which the raat a
this note is abstracted. Farokhsiyar and Mohame
^^^ Shah occttaionally resided in the palace ; after thedeati
^^Lo/' the latter it was the residence ol a. nvwco^- ""

The Moghtl EvipiTe. 133

this period there is but little to record about the history
of Agra. In 1764 it was occupied by the Bhurtpoor
J&ta under their celebrated leader Suruj Mull, and the
infamous Walter Reinhardt (Sumrn) red-handed from
the maaeacre of Patna. In 1770 the Malirattas re-ap-
peared and occupied the whole Doab, but three years
after they were driven out by the Imperial Minister
Najaf Khan, on which occasion the JElta recovered Agra,
but only to be finally expelled by the minister next year
in 1774. Mahoujed Beg of Humadan became the
governor and had a precarious tenure of the post for
the nest ten years, during great part of which Najaf
Khan continued to live at Agra in almost regal state,
Sumru died at Agra iu 1778, and in the following year
Najaf Khan left the place in order to live at court and
check the intrigues of his enemies around the person
of the imbecile and indolent Emperor Shah Alam.
Najaf died at Delhi in 1782, and the poor remains of
the empire were shaken to pieces by the contests that
arose ainong his survivors. Mahomed Beg shot Hirza
Shoffi, the deceased stateman'a nephew, in front of the
Delhi Gate of the fort b» he came on his elephant to
seemingly friendly consultation. Another member of the
family, Afrusyah Khan, succeeding to the vacant port-
folio, Hahomed was besieged at Agra by the united
forces of the empire and its ally Madhoji Siudhia in
1784. Presently the new minister was assassinated in
his return, the fort surrendered, and Sindhia became
what one cannot but denominate master of the situation
and the empire. In the violent attempt of Gholam
Kadir of Saharunpur to revive the Musalman cause,
he was aided by Mahomed Beg, and, on that leader's
death, by hiscetebrated nephew Ismail Beg, a desperate
leader of heavy cavalry, whose name long terrified
Mahratta imaginations.

In 1767 these confederates (Gholam Kadir and Ismail)
besieged Sindhia'a General Lnkwa Duda \t fei-^v., ».iA.
fought a furiona battle with the Te\ie\m^ iotte "o-'o&st

124 Handbooi to Agra.

General de Boigne uenr Fattelipur-Sikri. But the &i6gl
■was raised in June 1788, and the defeated scoundre*
went off to Delhi to wreak their last vengeance o
unoffending person of their aged sovereign Shah Alan
Id. 1792 Ismail was captured and sent into the for^
where he shortly after died a close prisoner,
plice Ghoiam Kadir having been put to death some Teati
before by Sindhia. The Mahratta Governor rebdle^
in 1799, and the fort was taken by General Perse '
after a siege of 58 days. John Hessing, a Dutch office
was now for sonie years governor of the fort, and thee
he died in 1802. The following year it was attacks^
by Lake. The Mahratta army, so-called " of the En
pire," was commanded by Heasing's successor Colond
Sutherland, but the Mahrattas justly concluding tbif
he would not fight against the British, put him undel
arreat. After a short bombardment, however, ihej"
gladly availed themselves of the colonel's mediatioin,
and the fort surrendered, never again to play aa activff ■
part in war till 1857.

It may amuse some readers to form an idea of the
pomp and state of the Moghul Court at its prime from
the description of M. Bernier, who visited Agra and
Delhi at the end of Shah Jahdn's and the commenoe-
nsent of Aurangzeb'a reign. Bernier, it is liardly neoea-
sary to add, was a well-educated French Physician, who
was for some time employed by Danishmund Khan,
the Governor of Delhi. The following extract is from

^the quaint contenjporaneous translation of his " letter
toM. delaMothe le Vayer," dated Delhi, July Ist^
1663:—
"The king appeared sitting upon his throne, in the
bottom of the great hatl of the Am-KoM, splendidly
apparelled. Ujh vest was of white satin flowered, and
raised with a very fine embroidery of gold and silk, Hia
turban was of cloth of gold, having a fowl wrought upon
it like an heron, whose foot was covered with diamonds
Vet an exSraordin&ry bigness and ^rice, w\^\i a. ^taaA, OTvaa-

The Moghul Empire, 125

tal topas, which may be said to be matchless, shining
like a little sun. A collar of big pearls hung about his
neck down to his stomack, after the manner that some
heathens weare here their great beads. His throne
was supported by six high pillars, or feet, said to be of
massive gold, and set with rubies, emeraulds, and dia-
monds. I am not able to tell you aright, neither the
number nor the price of this heap of pretious stones,
because it is not permitted to come near enough to
count them, and to judge of their water and purity.
Only this I can say, that the big diamonds are there in
confusion, and that the throne is estimated to be worth
four kourourea of roupies, if I remember well. I have
said elsewhere, that a roupie is almost equivalant to half
a crown,* a lecque to a hundred thousand roupies, and a
kourouVf to 100 lecques : so that the throne is valued
forty millions of roupies, which are worth about sixty
millions of French livers. Shah Juhan, the father of
Aurangzeb, is he that caused it to be made, to show so
many pretious stones as successively had been amassed
in the treasury, of the spoils of those antient Patana
and HajaSf and of the presents which the Omrahs are
obliged to make yearly upon certain festival days.
The art and workmanship of this throne is not answer-
able to the matter : that which I find upon it best de-
vised, are two peacocks covered with pretious stones
and pearls, which are the work of a Frenchman called
(Austin de Bordaux) that was an admirable workman,
and that after having circumvented many princes with
his doublets, which he knew how to make admirably
well, fled unto this court, where he made his fortune.
Beneath this throne there appeared all the Omrahs in
splendid apparel upon a raised ground covered with a

* t.e., Ecu, the French crown of three livres, so that the rapes
of those days would only be worth 15 pence [Is. Bd,) sterliiigy^ and
the whole throne £2,400,000, quite euow^li loT ^ ^«qX Vst %s£i
mooarch however great.— H. G. K.

Bl26 Handbook to Agra.

great canopy o! purfled gold with great golden fiingel^i
and enclosed by a silver baliatre. The pillars of the
hall were hung with tapestries of purfled gold, having
the ground of gold ; and for the roof of the liall, there
vas nothing but great canopies of Howred satin fastened
with red silken cords that had big tufta of silk mixt with
threads of gold hanging on them. Below there wm
nothing to be eeea but great silken tapestries, very rich,
of an extraoi-dinary length and breadth. In the court
there was set abroad a certain tent they called the J«;«a
as long and large aa the hall and more. It was joyned
to the hall by the upper part, and reached almost aa
far Its to the middle of the court ; meantime it vaa
all enclosed by a great balistre covered with plates of
silver. It was supported by three pillars, being of the
thickness and height of a bargemast, and by sooae
lesser ones, and they all were covered with plates of
silver. It was red from without and lined within with
those fine chitles, or cloth painted by a pencil of Masu-
lipatam, purposely wrought and contrived with suuh
vivid colours, and flowera ao naturally drawn of aa
hundred several fashions and shapes, that one would
have said it were an hanging Parterre. Thus, was the
great hall of the Am-Kas adorned and set out.

" As to those arched galleries, which I have spoken
of, that are round about the courts, each Omrah had
received order to dress one of them at his own charges.
And they now striving who should make his own most
stately, there was seen nothing but purfled gold abova
and beneath, and rich tapestries under foot."

We must always bear in mind, when visiting Moghiil
buildings, or studying the history of the men who used
them, that the mode of life of the Indian Moghuls under
the empire was essentially different from that of tnod>
em Europe. Originally nomads, the pattern of suob
men's life was the life of a camp. Hence we find their
palaces conforming to this plan. There is a central
I'pavihon for the shelter and display of the king in the"

The Moghul Empire. 127

public administration of justice ; and there is a smaller
pavilion in which he could consult with his peers and
privy councillors. But all his private life was passed
in the women's apartment ; and we look in vain for the
cabinets, the drawing-rooms, the halls ornamented with
statues, the " glorious galleries " of Windsor or Versail-
les. The mode of conducting the duties and pleasures
of the day has been glanced at in Mr. Sherer's sketch of
Fattehpur; and it cannot be necessary to add to so
graceful a picture. A faded resemblance of that way of
existence may still be seen in Persia and other states of
Central Asia ; but the descriptions of our friend Bernier,
and of other contemporary European travellers, must be
consulted by those who would form a true and vivid
conception of that which fired the imagination of
Milton when that most gorgeous of Puritans spoke of

" A throne of royal state which far
Outshone the wealth of Ormus or of Ind."

APPENDIX A-

NOTE ON HINDUSTANI ARCHITECTURE.

It is customary to hear the buildings about Agra and
New Delhi spoken of as Saracenic ; certainly they bear
some resemblance to the general characteristics of the
school so-called. But since they are separated from
that school in every other respect, it is better to treat
them as belonging to a school apart, which, for want of
a better name, may be called the " Hindustani School."
This style of building was naturalised about the middle
of the 16th century in Hindustan Proper (the part of
the country in which the abovenamed Moghul capitals
stood), and it has taken deep root, and is still flourish-
ing actively wherever it has free play.

In the Historical Note annexed to this Guide has been
given a list of the principal buildings of each of the three
emperors under whom Hindustani architecture grew to
perfection. Between the buildings of Akbar and those
of Jahdnglr will be found little generic difference : and
where inscriptions and contemporaneous narrative are
wanting, it is not easy to determine from internal evi-
dence to which reign a work belongs. The absence of
timber and the sparing use of arches mark both alike.
Under Shah Jahdn we find Persian ideas predominating,
though Hindu treatment still marks the details of the
earliest works. As this fades, the inherent faults of de-
sign, its stiffness and want of structural representation,
become rapidly conspicuous. It will be understood
from these remarks that the style referred to is at its best
a mixed or eclectic style.

It is true that, in buildings erected by M.ws».\\s^^\is. \s>ft
their own vae, the arch is mucin eiiv^\oy^^^ ^sn^^ *^^

K,, A, H. ^

I or

130 Eandbooi to Agra.

oratLiDeDtationiachiefljgeometric;whilem those p<

to the Hindus, the arcbitraTes reut usually on brackc
and the decoration freely avails itself ot vegetable a
animal forma, no doubt conventionalised. A curii
oblong roof occurs in these latter also ; but it grew, a
to speak, out of the Tartar dome common to India t
Russia; and that dome in its original form is still oT
nsed by the Hindus, The latter also, instead of p
vaulting, of ten teriniDate their buildings by placing d
walls on four, and covering all with a flat slab. In t
Instances there are sixteen parapets placed on the a,
eight, and a sham dome is produced by curved flagato
meeting in the middle, the whole topped with a e
cap-stone.

A good specimen of this kind of work may be a
the so-called house of Birbul at Fattehpur-Sikri ; also
in the very curious Jahangf rf Mahl of the Agra Fort.

The origin of the eclectic school is evidently, as ob-
served by FerguBson, the adaptation of the old PaLhan
forms and requirements to the habits of Hindu work-
men. But if we ask why sueh a style was not naturnlised
till the time of Akbar, an answer can only be found in the
beneficent yet powerful character of that ruler's geniaft

As long as the Musalman adventurers maintained
their connection with Central Asia, India was to them
what England was to the Dukes of Normandy. Babar
was buiied at Kabul ; and it was in that country and in
Persia that Humiyun, when worried and worsted JD
India, naturally sought repose. But his son, the KcQ'
peror Akbar, was ab once the Edward the I even a
the Henry the VIII of his race. He saw from I
first the propriety, the necessity even, of fusing 1
system with the natural growth of the soil. CaltiD(H
the communication with the ancient seats of his dyi
he aimed at a complete social and political (
tion. He took his wife from the purest tlajput b
he made a number of Hindu grandees or peers, t«rw
whom at least were among hia moat coofideatial si

Hindustani Architecture. 131

lie endeavoured to abolish all that was most exclusive
and intolerant in the faith of Islam : and he raised the
people of the country from a mass of mere tribute pay-
ing barbarians to an emancipated and protected — almost
a privileged — community.

It was under such influences that this style we are
contemplating arose. Retaining the graceful form and
brilliant colouring of the Persian mosques and palaces,
the eclectic architects of the new school deferred in
many directions to the ideas and tastes of the artificers
they had to employ. The result was natural and most
successful. In many of the buildings so constructed,
the vaulted roof, the lofty arch with real voussoirs and
keystone, were still a necessity ; but there are edifices,
neither rare nor always unimportant, in Fattehpur-Sikri
and in the Agra Fort, where the arch and cupola are
rigidly excluded, and where nothing exists to remind the
beholder of Central Asia except the slender column and
the occasional kiosque. Under the fanatical Aurangzeb
this system was largely modified. Everything savouring
of idolatry and idolators was to be excluded ; and it is
probable that only believers were employed as workmen.
The same thing that occurred in politics then occurred in
art also. The Hindu ideas, divorced for a time from
activity, remained in abeyance ; but it was the favoured
school that languished and ultimately died. Witness
the sudden degeneration of architecture seen in Sufdar
Jung's tomb near Delhi, and in the palaces of his
descendants at Lucknow ; and hence, while no great
Musalman buildings can at the present day be produced,
the Hindu continues to preserve many of the graces
caught from his old masters, blended with a vitality and
an ingenuity all his own.

A good example is seen at Deeg, the summer palace
of the Bhurtpoor Rajah. Faults there are no doubt.
The depressed domes, used as canopies for windows
and loggia-openings, are in themselves i^^ttlu^^WA^ \ \sviX.
when they are found repeated on the mtexioY \N«iX\^^ VyHXv

WW2

llaniibook lo Agrai\

sham drip-stones that serve no purpoee, pertinaotty ^
design is clearly felt to be worse than thrown awi '
Still the arch-like openings, the geometric traceries, t
■.eplender shafts, are all well-suited to the tabei-aacle-li
pharacter of a palace intended chiefly as a retiremaj
1 extreme hent ; and these are features which tj
da architect has not originated, however well he n
have managed tbeir adoption. It is to be regretted t]
he had at the same time no better form of dome befflfl
; but the model that he has is utilised " prettily,"]
nothing more.

There can be no doubt that a dome should be n
I outward expression of the cupola or periphei
rch within the natural ornament and crown of an an
rork. Unfortunately the Moghuls brought down H
\ the unmeaning inflation of the bulbous Tar
I, which corresponds to no existing feature v "
can only express weakness. To the docile Hin
ind a rule is n rule from which he will not deriatsl
he can help it. Thus has been generated a vicious doiH
which spoils the massive character of so many otherwiaj
beautiful buildings.

If it be said that this form of dome is the expre
L horse-ahoe arch, the suuple answer is th»t a
lurches were not used in Hindustani architectare rf t
e type, and the bulb-dome could not have fa
I ia true that an appearance of this k
1 chiefly in Pathan buildingB, hut jl
due to the arrangement of the pilasters Eupportiug (i
entablature.

Nevertheless it ia probably a fact that there i
civilized country that can at the present day cocQ
with India in the buildings it produces, whether for gi
of design or elaboration of detail. The visitor of ti
going through the streets of Muttra finds galleries In £i
of modem private dwellings that are more ("
•more various, and in other respects more
^^eaaiifui than most that are td Ym'k^i

Hindustani Architecture, 133

the Grand Canal of Venice. . And these are produced,
not by a proud republic in the hour of its greatest
strength, but by a subject race, not consulted in their
own taxation or law-making, and enslaved to the most
senseless and degrading superstitions. The Hindu
people, though one of the most ancient of Aryan nations,
appears in this, as in many other ways, to possess the
fullest share of the vigour of youth. Its taste is seen
as much in the colours of the costumes as in the forms
of the buildings universally affected. Well for it, we
can abstain from depraving its taste in colour and form
with our Public Works Department constructions and
our aniline dyes.

The following Note, written for the Universal Exhi-
bition of Vienna, is added as an amplification of the
above for those who wish to pursU^e the subject : —

Note on the Stone Industries of Agra,

A.D.

Foundation of first Pathan School under Kutub-

ud-d in Aibuk, about ... ... 1200

[Principal specimen. Tomb of AltumsK] ... 1235

Second school or period of Toghluk Shah ... 1320

[P. S. Tomb of T. S,, roof in a flat dome slightly

pointed expressive of their arch, about the same

date.]
Third Pathan period, S. Shah [P. S. Kila Kona

Mosque^ ... ... ... ... 1540

Commencement of Moghul School (under Akbar) 1556
[P. S. Fattehpur-Sikri], from 1566 to about ... 1630
Turning point of Moghul Architecture when

Hindu work was eliminated by Shah Jahan ... 1640

Earliest colouring about 15401 Completion of

Inlaying of Itmdd-ud- I Jamma Musjid at

Daulah ... 1620 }- Agra, 1639 to 1644.

Xhas Mahl of Agra 1630—1631 \ 'la.^ eom^X^X^^^^
TAJMahl ...1630— 16«\ \^V^.

Bnudlioot to A'jra.

Af(ra, with the nei};hbourmg country from GvaSl

round by Jaipur to Delhi, has loag been, the seafc

Beverai very beautiful arts which ntay be thus clussified

(i) Munabbut-kari i or Indiau pUtra dttru [parti

pie piiasive, second conjugation of nubl, an '
Arnbic word signifying " to plant," " to ei
to germinate."]*
{ii) Jolt ; pierced aoreea-work in marble or s

atone.

(ill) Soapstone carving ; a new art.

Before describing ea^h of tbeae in detail, it will ba J

well to give a brief sketch of the history of architecture

as it exists in this tract of country, as the mother-art bi

which the decorative arts are in the main subsidiiuy.

The practice of uniting soapstone carving with archit^

ture has not yet been attempted ; though it is vri

suitable for the decoration of the interior of snd

.. buildings at least ; and its introduction some time I

^^^_ other ia not unlikely. But the other two industries m

^^^L primarily and essentially architectural ; and any sp(|

^^^H mens utilized for another purpose mustonly be regard

^^H in the light of samples.

^^^H The origin of the eclectic school of architecture p
^^^H lent to this day in Upper India is to be found in
^^^H adaptation of the old Fathan ideas to the hsbita>|
I^^^T Hindu workmen. Like English -Gothic, Hindustai__^
n architecture has had five periods, although, unlike

English-Gothic, it iH still a living art. And the five
periods are chiefly marked out one from the other by
^^^_ the presence or absence ot the influence of the unorigiua-
^^^L tive but patient craftsmen of alien blood and pagan
^^^H creed, who lent their cheap yet precious labour to the
^^^r works of their Moslem masters, and who are still working

* 8d SBAKE3FEA.R. — The Oliaii-ool-L/yhal and otbor Anittis M^^^H

riliea regHrd the word ns referriog to Ihmgi raitil from tbs eml^^H

u like plants ; it noiild thus imply Jtliim, inch an the ima«B on fri^^^|

^^^_ osiDeoaorootDs, The Hindu wenl is jiai)u:hika.fi : " ndiiaidve ksC^^H

^^^H perhii^ma iwrrujition of pui'i;&un<;ai'i, tW teTBi&atsmi. ^^H

Hindustani Architecture. 135

out the problems suggested by that most fortunate com-
bination.

First Period, — ^The foundation of the school of which
I am speaking may be assigned to the Ghori conquerors,
the first fine product of the eclectic architecture of
Hindustan being the tomb of Altumsh at old Delhi.
This monument, built about A.D. 1235, stands at the
north-west corner of the great mosque attached to the
Kutub Minar, and is considered by Mr. Fergusson
(II, 651) to be one of the richest examples of Hindu
art applied to Mahomedan purposes that Delhi has to
show. He adds, however, that the builders still display
a certain degree of inaptness in fitting the details to
their new uses. It has no roof ; and it has been doubted
if it was ever intended to have one.*

The walls are 7 feet in thickness ; and the interior
forms a square of over 29 feet, the panels of which are
beautifully decorated. The same authority speaks of
this period as remarkable rather for a stem severity of
style and gloomy appropriateness than for the lighter
graces of architectural design. Nevertheless, this tomb,
together with the arches of the Great Mosque, the Alai
Durwaza, and the Kutub itself, are all testimonies to the
handiwork of Hindu craftsmen on Musalman design.

Second Period. — After lasting about a century this
style gave way to the second period, that of increased
gloom and hardness ; and the rude grandeur spoken of
by Fergusson at page 653. Specimens of this are to
be found in the tomb of Toghluk Shah (outside the
south wall of the ruined city of Toghlukabad), some
ten miles south of modern Delhi, or Shahjuhanabad,
and the Kulu or Kulan Musjid (near the Toorkman
Gate of the modem city). These buildings are in fine
taste : and though severely simple do not entirely
disdain the use of colour. In the tomb of Toghluk

-w- 1 - -■ r* -m -I ■ ■

* General Cunningham considers it ^aa coi^a.YD^'^ t^^Am^ ^^'^R>i^
MSk owerlAppiDg Hindu dome."

pSS Haniibnoh to Agra.

particularly, good use fs made of "bands and
of white marble on the large sloping surface of redston
The horseshoe arches are of whitn marble, and a broi
band of the same goes completely round the building
the springing of tbe arches. Another broad band
white marble, in upright slabs, 4 feet in height, gc
all round the dome just above its springing."-
(Cunningham.) The mosque is believed by the sal
eminent authority to have been entirely covered with
coating of coloured plaster, most of which has Q
fallen off. It is probable that the Musalmana had n
become independent of Hindu aid, as afterwards,
doubt happened in the corresponding Moghul period
Shah Jahan. Tbe use of the true arch, with vouaaa
and keystone, is universal. It was probably introdai
towards the end of the preceding period, as (down
least to the death of Altumsh) the arched openings ai
Only cut out of horizontal courses.

Third Period. — It is the period beginning with i
short Sur dynasty in 1640 that we find colour &
introduced, generally and boldly The system
encaustic tilling had been introduced about the end
the thirteenth century in Persia, where the mi
mosque of Tabreez is said still to glow with a i
elaborate play of pattern and of hue. The first
specimen of this art in Upper India seems to be
KUa Kona Moaque in the Pordnd EUla, which w»a
citadel of Sher Shah's city, just outside the "D
Gate," of the modern town.

This building esemplifie-s the words in which Fergi
son describes this brief but splendid period —

The facades .... became more ornamental,

« frequently encrusted with marbles, and alwa

adorned with sculpture of a rich and beautiful charaett

.ngles of the building relieved by little kioaqn

. but never with minarets, which, so far

w, were not attached to mosques during the ^th

period." fHist. Archit. 11, p.655V " CoVovHodtilaa w«

Hindustani Architecture. 137

now freely employed ; and the style is altogether remark-
able as the natural precursor of the existing school."

Fourth Period. — The Moghul School of Hindustani
architecture, the basis of modern practice, arose under
Akbar, the celebrated grandson of the Conqueror Babar,
in the time of whose incapable son the brief dynasty
and school above referred to had flourished. The new
school differs from its predecessor in two things chiefly —

(i) The employment of Hindu treatment, which had
been accidental, capricious and fluctuating, was under-
taken on a declared system of eclecticism and amal-
gamation.

{ii) The effects of colour were much bolder than
heretofore, and variegated marbles were generally used
in place of encaustic tinting.

Chief among the works of this time (in order of date)
are —

A.D.

The Fort at Agra from 1566

The Palace at Fattehpur-Sikri from about 1570—1600

The Tomb of Akbar at Sikandra ... 1 608—1 6 1 3

The Tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah ... 1621

To which may be added the group of tombs at Lahore
of some five years later than the last-mentioned date.
(These were once decorated both with tiles and inlaying,
but the Sikhs have injured both, especially the latter.)

Between the works of Akbar and those of his sod and
immediate successor Jahangir will be found little generic
difference ; and, wherever, inscriptions and contem-
poraneous writings are wanting, it is hard to determine
from internal evidence to which reign a work belongs.
The absence of the use of timber, the fine stone-chisel-
ling and the sparing employment of the true arch, mark
both alike. Under Shah Jahdn, however, these things
disappear, while a new element comes into prominence.

Fifth Period.— At the end of 1627, Shah Jahdn suc-
ceeded his father Jahdnglr, and at oncQ bft^ta.\!L ^\^^ ^ssss^
splendid aenea o£ buildings that mod^Tii\I\\si«e.\i3^'^^^^^^^

^^u

■38 Hii'iiHioot to Agra.

The Indian Saracenic school of Shah Jahdn i
have modified the preceding eclecticiam and to hav
adopted a softness of contour and a U3e of dazslin,
detail which trembles on the line that sepai'ates preten
sion from true dignity ; and though its happiest effort
are unique in their charm, yet all its rirtuea lean to vicrf
side, and a fall is felt to be impending. Persian ides
predominate, though Hindu practice is not at first en
tirely eliminated from the details. It is only as tb
healthy industrious influence fades that the inhereai
faults of this last development of Moghul art becoim
fully conspicuous, the still outlines and flat surfaces, thi
effeminate curves, the want of carved ornament, and o
true structural representation.

The following severe but important criticism on thi
Taj is extracted from some notes that appeared in tl:
Pioneer in February 1874, evidently by a competet
writer: "The Taj baa no constructional merits but
those of the moat ordinary sort. It is a large, cubical
mass of masonry, with truncated corners, veneered onl]
with white marble, and pierced with larjje hollow gaptaj
excavations, in which there is nothing either on th«
external borders or on their interior surfaces to carry ol
the bareness of these cavernous recesses. The only na
for which these appear to have been designed was t
afibrd openings for meaningless fenestrations, which a
mit so little hgbt into the interior that tbe tomb itm
has to be visited by caudle light, and they exhibit (
little attempt at anything like design, that their blanks
staring poverty can induce no interest of any descrip^
tion. To these cavernous recesses alone is the edifiot
indebted for all it has of relief or play of light and shadft
The masonry, which is not thus excavated, is flat anc
barren, and there are none of those deep indentatJoak
and bold projections in which the earlier IVIahomedao
architects so much delighted, and in the arrangement
and disposition of which they displayed so much skilL
"" ■ teati of these we have fiat baiida Viaaviug Arabia

Uindaatani Arehr'teature. 139

inscriptions, not raised, as the older builders would
Lave done them, bordering them with broad, crisp
mouUinga and interlacinga, but inlaid with black marble
upon the white without any relieving bordering, so that
the bare blankneas of the whole ia absolutely augment-
ed by this violent, vulgar contrast of black acrawlings
OD a white ground in the full glare of the sun. So
great is this poverty of relief, that the builder found it
necessary to eke out the meagre little streaks of shadow,
which ia all bis weak projections could give, by sur-
rounding his panellings and bands with a narrow edging
of black marble, also inlaid, not at any diatance from
these projectiona, but close into them, added as it wi
by a kind of afterthought whereby he has perpetuated
a flagrant evidence of the meagreness of hia architec-
tural skiU. Inlaid work of tliia and other deacriptioDa
has been largely but vulgarly employed all over the i
tenor of the building. No good architect would e'
have used decoration of this sort in external work withont
associating it abundantly with carved and moulded
ornainentation, whereby hia own appreciation of the value
of such work, both in its material and ita labour, should
be indicated, and the work itself protected and cared
for. Then, too, the patterns of these inlayinga i
meagre in the extreme. None more ao than those in
the spandrels of the large central archways, which are
filled in, with coarse, lanky, meaningless scrolls, in which
there is neither unity of design, elegance of form, nor
constructive arrangements of any sort."

8omewliat to the same effect, though with less of
poaitiveneas, have been other and still later crilicismB.
The remarks in the teuf" are intended to meet the best
of these comments ; and I may perhaps bo allowed to
sum up the architectural question in the following
extract from one of my own contributions to the contro-
versy. It id taken from a daily paper of April 1876 :

Bandhnoh to Agra

"The 80-ealled 'Taj Mehal' of Agra is a vast mai
of masonry, faced wilh thick plates oE plain or decorate
white marble, looking on one side to a vast expaiu
of rectangultii' grove aad garden, on the other on
terrace at whose foot flows the Hiver Jumna. About
mile from the Fort of Agra, on the road towards tt
villagBof Samoghar (where stand the atone records <
■'le victory gained by Aurangzeb over the ili-fated Dar^
elder brother and the designate heir of the empire}
traveller passes by the lofty ornamented gatewaj
ijunid an enclosure of red sandstone cloisters. Pramej
in the further archway, appears an avenue of dar
Italian cypresses. Down the line between, sparkles
long row of fountains, eacb tossing up a feathery plan
of water or a thin jet fifteen feet high. At the end, a
a terrace of white marble raised twenty-six feet abovf
the level of the garden, rise the gleaming walls ftnj
loftily curving dome that have so long and far been
famous,

" Is this, as honest Bernier thought, one of th«
wonders of the world, worthy to rank with the temple ol
Diana at Epbesus or the Great Pyramid ; or is it^ as 001
oeologista assert, a mere caprice in unpaid-for roaterii'
a meretricious monument of lust T To give any sort ■
answer to such a question, we must have some commi
{loint of departure, some art speech that all can undc
stand.

Arrhitectnre consists of two important element^

it each of like impoi'tance, yet necessary and essentii

e one to the other. These principles are constructioq
including design — and finish, implying decoratiofl
Beauty of form, may be found in a wave, a waterspout
a rock ; each strong and graceful for its purpose^ yt
none calculated to give the whole pleasure of a work (
art. LovelioesB of ornament may be found in a tree,
flower, a butterfiy, none of them claiming to be coufl
dered types for the close iuutatioo of man. To produf
•M Jrork therefore that sliaU pcriaaTXftB.t\^ 'n^ ^W -^Ttji

Hindustani Architecture, 141

and gratitude of intelligent beings, you must bring into
combination the strength and serviceableness of fine
form with the apt exciting harmonies of detail. And
your building can less afford to dispense with any of the
first, than to lose a certain portion of the second.

"Tried by this test, the Taj certainly fails. The
general design consists of a cube with truncated angles,
opposite each of which is a detached tower, terminating
just below the springing of the dome from the summit
of the cube. No relation can be discovered among the
heights or other dimensions of the parts, nor any expres-
sion of practical purpose in the great majority of them.
The turnip-shaped dome does not correspond to the
form of the inward vault, the minarets are useless in-
cumbrances in a structural point of view ; the windows
give no light. The extreme straightness of outline
bounds the building, while it takes away all that air of
stately strength, which is given by the curved or sloping
sides of Pathan buildings ; and the sky-line, if not so
actually a dead level as in some contemporary works, is
still distinctly wanting in aspiration. Many of these
faults are more or less masked by the really magnificent
foliage of the modern garden; but, judging from old
pictures and descriptions, we may feel sure that this
masking was no part of the original intention. And it
is a small but significant detail that, so far from being
as is generally supposed an artist king, versed in every
detail of his beautiful toy. Shah Jahan was no more
acquainted with the exact dimensions of the Taj than
was Jahanglr with the names of the mothers of his sons.
In his memoirs the emperor declares that the tomb was
296 feet high : measured by a theodolite in 1872, it
turned out to be only 243J.

" It is when we turn to the ornamentations, the colour-
ing, the style, the whole delicious harmony that makes
up the idea of * taste,' that we see how, in spite of all
these and numerous other pedantr\^B> oi ^^\i> 'v>w5k'\-vi\
charmS; and always must charm. \xl VXi-ei^^i^^^ ^"^ ^"^^

Handbook to Agra.

1637
164^
16lJ

^nri

[142

ard Taylor: 'So light it seems, so aity, and e
fabric of mist and moonbeams, with its great dome soap-
ing up a silvery bubble, that even after you bave toach"
ed it, and climbed to its Bummit, you may almuet doubly
its reality.' "

Nevertheless to give a cataloftue of the works of t
Bohool would be to name all the buildings (excepting
the Kutab Minar) which have made Indian Musalman?
architecture beat known in Europe, The dates of s
of the principal examples follow ; —

The JChoi Mahl, or private apartments of Agra Fort,
begun about 1628, completed IGSt

The Palace at new Delhi

The Jamma Musjid of Agra ...

The Taj Mahl of ditto

The Moti MuRjid of ditto

The Jamma Musjid at Delhi ...

From the accession of Shah Jah^n to bis depositioi
by Aurangzeb is a period of thirty years, during whMJ
Moghul art culminated and commenced its declinfl
The same thing that occurred in politics occurred ii
also. The Hindu practice, divorced for a time frOR
acti'^ity, languished in suspense, but it was tlie ad^vi
partner that was doomed to die. While the Moghn
architects have sunk from the Taj to the tomb of Sufdoj
Jung, and from the palaces of Shah Jahfin to the atuco
nightmares of Lucknow, the Hindu has caught up a
retained all that was beat in the art of his employe
and has blended it with a vitality and an ingenuity bI
his own. Jaipur and Muttra attest his excellence ii
carving, and the ateliers of Niithu and Furusnun
Agra equal in fini.i^hof execution the finished ^etrarfun
of the inlayers of the Taj. These industries areextaa
at this day in this small tract of country in execnti*
perfection, and give it the honourable distinction of haf
bouring two arts that are uniigue among the arts of tbi
world. As there is no civilized country that con at tl|
iresent day claim superioril y o\ er India in the building

Hindustani Architecture. 143

that it contains, so none can beat the people of this part
of India in the eye for colour, or the hand for elaborate
workmanship. The traveller of to-day, going through
Northern Rajputana and the land of Brij, finds galleries
being placed in front of 'modern dwellings that need not
shrink from comparison with the loggie of the Grand
Canal. The workshops of Agra continue to turn out
samples of inlaying that rival in taste and finish the
famous ornamentation of the Medicean Chapel. In
natural and political science England has a lesson for
the East. In art the people of this country is the
master of its conquerors, as of old. But the successors
of the Moghul cannot contribute beneficially as their
predecessors did. Yet the Hindu mind is so docile and
receptive that there is a danger of their arts being cor-
rupted by intercourse with those from whom they are
learning lessons in the practical sciences and their ap-
plication. The vulgar maxim that " Time is money,"
and the vain craving for obvious utility of the pedes-
trian kind are spoiling art in England, and if not jealous-
ly guarded against will spoil it here. A friend writes
on this point —

" Admitting that what has here been called Munuhut
was originally applied to geometric patterns only, it
seems almost to have deserted them now if you are to
judge by the Agra workshops. The difference between
the older, or Taj work, and that which seems now to be
coming into vogue, is that the former is symmetrical,
and has a certain amount of stiffness in consequence,
while the latter strives rather to follow the natural forms
and irregular dispositions of flowers, butterflies, and
birds. Except in minuteness of finish, I see no differ-
ence between the present work and the flat pietra dura
of Florence. This is a sad result of European inter-
ference."

Mosaic work appears to have had its origin in the
Ekut, the land of leisure and of luxury *, and tA Vssc^^
passed over to the Roman Empire Va \>aa \]\ssi^'a» ^^ ^^s^

'Ai Handbook to Agra.

Eastern conqneBta, only to travel bacic U
in later times.

The first mention of inlaying as applied to arehitt
ture occurs in the Bible. In the book of Esther, tJ
Palace at Suaa, now a mnsa of almost indistinguiahat
decay, is described as having "a pavement of red ai
blue, and white and black marble." Borrowed by tl
Romans the art became what is now known by Ij
distinctive name of " Mosaic;" that is, " the art of p<
iducing artistic designs by setting small squares of stoi
or glass of different colours, so as to give the eSect i
painting;" and continued to be a purely Italian ■
which it is necessary to distinguish from the arofaitectai
practice which forms our present subject. The el
mology of the word " Mosaic " is unknown, bo that
might equally appropriately be used of either branch <
the inlayer's art. But, inasmuch as the word h
already its well-defined and well-known applicatiq
while Hindustani inlaying is properly archi tec turalraU)
than pictorial, and is not produced by tessellation but I
the insertion of large masses of jewel into blocks j
white marble so as to form geometrical patterns rathi
than pictorial designs, it is well to leave the term as 1
find it. I propose to call Indian inlaying by the i
of " Indian pielra dura."

Thia form of the art is peculiar to Moghul India, an
in India to the particular region with which this papd
is concerned. Besides the use of enamelled tiles, ^
Indian Mahomedaus adopted early the application (
coloured stones, gradually elaborated from the ainni
courses of Togbluk's tomb to the minute decoratid
now in vogue. The ai;t in its beat condition ij
mended by Fergusson as " the great characteristie fl
Moghul architecture after the deuth of Akbar." As C
who introduced it, authentic history is silent. Its first i^
pearance may perhaps be cited in the gate of Akbai'
tomb at Sikaiidra. Twenty years later ii appears, Htj
in large and purely arabesi^ue patterns, on the tomb i

Hindustani Architecture, H5

Itmad-ud-Daulah. Tradition says that its first develop-
ment in the time of Shah Jahdn was due to Persian artists;
and this synchronizes with the arrival at that monarch's
court of the distinguished amateur Ali Murdan Khan,
the designer of the Delhi Palace and of the canal that
supplied it with water. Up to this time the geometric
traceries of the early inlayings are seen timidly borrow-
ing a few floral forms — witness Shah Jahan's Palace in
the Agra Fort. Immediately after, however, appears
the fully introduction of flower- work in the screen that
surrounds the tombs in the Taj Mahal ; and the vexed
question arises, how was this revolution accomplished,
and by whom % In the ten years that elapsed between
the fort buildings and the work at the Taj, what influence
had introduced an attempt at realization of leaves,
stalks, and petals which, if not happily arrested, would
perhaps have degenerated into a mongrel and rococo style.

I think it probable that the traditional belief, that
European taste is here answerable, is not wholly un-
founded. The Taj is believed to have been designed by
a Venetian and built by Isa Effendi, a Constantinople
Turk, while the Palace at Delhi was decorated by Austin
de Bordeaux, the accomplished French adventurer. That
Byzantium was the home of true Mosaic is well known,
and the kindred art had been in vogue for about eighty
years previous in Northern Italy; with which Austin
was doubtless acquainted.* It is thus described in
Sir D. Brewster's Encyclopaedia —

** Analogous to Mosaic is the pietra dura of Florence,
which consists of irregular portions of hard stones, con-
taining the gradation of colours in each, instead of ob-
taining that gradation by the union of multiplied frag-

* Theare was formerly a good deal of work attributed to Austin
at Delhi including pietra pictures of birds, beasts, and his own
likeness in the character of a long-haired Orpheus playing on the
Tiolin. Fortunately the dignity of the Ta^V ^^^^ ^^*^ liOitCL^rtwssaft,^
by anj auoh realistic efforts.

146 Handbook to Agra

moat exBCt ■

^^^H menta," This, it may be observed, is n.n almost exnet '

^^H definition (as far as it goea) of the modern Indian

^^^H pielra dnrn as seen in the screen of the Taj and iu

^^^B repi'oductions of to-day. And the three and-a-half

^^^H flowers attll pointed out by the curators as the work of

^^^B the " master's " own hand have eSects of shadow aad of

^^^1 reversed leaf-entla in the style which exceed the limit*

^^^1 of the pure coaventional.*

^^^B ' However originated, thia work is now practiced uhieflj

^^^K by Hindus. A few Mosalmana at the Taj maintain an

^^^B unsuccessful rivalry with the more painstaking workmen

^^^B of indigenous blood ; but they have never — as far as I

^^^B amaware — exhibited while the two Hindu artists already

^^^B mentioned have b«en honourably noticed and rewarded

^^^B .with medals, both in Indian and European exhibi-

^^^1 The practice of their art is very simple. The wiaster-

^^^P workman traces with delicate exactne^is a pencil outline

1^^^ of the design to be produced upon a slab of the whilst
Jaipur marble. The slab is then handed over to one
craftsman, and a collection of jewels to another. The

II chief jewels used are agate, cornelian, jasper, bloodstone,

^^^^ lapis-lazuli, and turquoise. Each piece has its bed

^^^B prepared on the master's tracing on the surface of the

^^^P slab, while it is shaped by the associated jvorkraon. As

■ It

Bom

Br doBB

„„, „„

iulaid »ork at Delhi, b<

es Ibai

of the

'I'-i

! the ModicoQQ

[Chapel. "Yoi

>ucb «

t of »>

iloyad to enrich

at Dul

lof Fl

But b.

the floral son

Bil.le that

Mid lo

mo qf the work

at Delhi were

added aiftt

r hU

nsi

landolao and Thevonot Baw aoma inlay at Delhr which tijej

uoribed to tjhah Jah^n : on Ihs othar hand that af the Dewto-

Agra ia Dertainlf of the reign of Aurangieb. The Dowub-

hoBarliortraTalleradown to TnTemief in 1686 woatd liaTa

'beeu Barely mentianed as ornamenWd by Bome of them had it beM

~ The date of the present bmldlog is A.D. 16S4 (vide nf.,

"), and the preaumption is that Uie earlier throne-rooir —

>iir»riyiily plain, liko the contemporary building of the

di faElebpUT-Sikn (vide »]>., ^. 91).

Hindustani Architecture, 147

each piece is ready, it is handed to the inlayer who fits
it into its place with a cement of white lime. It is
then covered with a small piece of glass, over which is
laid a fragment of burning charcoal. When the an-
nealing process is complete, the glass is removed ; and,
when the whole design has been inlaid in this manner,
the surface is rubbed over with a polishing powder, and
the work is ready. When the cutter and the inlayer
have done their respective offices with due skill, no
trace of the annealing is perceptible. In second-class
work, a small rim of cement may always be detected by
its greater whiteness, separating the precious stone —
whatever it be — from the bed of marble.

As to the uses of this art, it has been already shown
that it is essentially architectural. The jambs of great
portals in a Moghul tomb, the pillars of a Palace-hall,
should have their borders of bold arabesque. The
panels of the interior admit of the more delicate floral
tracery of the latter school. But this, the original and
legitimate application of the art, is in abeyance. Euro-
peans are too unsettled, and the wealthy natives too
negligent to allow of their dwellings being beautified
by the costly method. The patient workmen, therefore,
have turned their attention to making smaller speci-
mens of their art, which is now chiefly confined to
tables, inkstands, trays, plates, and paper-weights. The
time required to mature even these comparatively un-
important works is still considerable, and the prices
commanded are not small. An average table will take
two men from six to twelve months to complete ; and
when the value of the materials is taken into considera-
tion, will not perhaps appear too expensive at a cost of
from £30 to ^100, according, of course, to the amount
of labour and material.^

* The mural pidra dura of the Palace of Shah Jah^n in A^r*.
Fort has been partially restored by these meii iX >»tiA <^«x^<a^^ «kA.
under the orden, of the Britiah QoTerixmeut,

Bje Handbook to Agra

The other characteriatio atone industry of Agra
its neighbourhood is callml Jdli. On the carved tracery
of this pare of India Mr. Fergassou only remarks : —
' There are some exquisite specimens of tracery
,rbl« at Agra and Delhi, but none quite equal to this
Aimedabad in the Dekkan)." This, however, pa«
le viri, appears aomenbaC hasty criticism, there being
tittle more aimilitude between the Southern and Nor '
ern aohoola of tracery than there is between point-li
and Honiton flowera. The Jdli of Upper India
fine fili'^ree of marble or sandstone fretted in to a
most endless network of geometrical combinations,
as can only be understood by seeing the carvings tl
selves or good photographs, if then. If then, becai
such is the complication of the lines that the great
geometricians may be puzzled to analyse the desij
The same author thus accounts for the invenbicin of
art ; — " Every form of a Hindu temple was repixxiint
except in one particular. In the angles of all H'
temples are niches containing images. This the Mi
could not tolerate, so he filled them with tracery .
After a century's esperience they produced forms wl
as architectural ornaments, will in their own eloss stai
comparison with any employed at any age oi' in any
part of the world ; and in doing this they invented a claBS
of window tracery in which also they were unrivalled.'
In Northern India the use of some material that
should, like glass, afford protection from weather, wliile,
unlike glass, it admitted of free ventilation, led to a
great elaboration of tins last, or window-tracery, clnsii,
Almost all the Pathan and Moghul buildings are full of
these minute yet everlasting pieces of fretwork. The
marble screens that go on all four sides of the open
chamber on the summit of Akbar's Hausuleum ut
Siknndra are as fresh as when first executed more than
two hundred and sixty years ago, and each screen con-
tiiins twelve panels— except where a panel in the cet
hsxa hesD left open for the view— and ^\i«v« a-it \}i

HindtMtani Architecture. 149

different patterns of panel in each screen. The upper
chamber of Itmdd-ud-Daulah's tomb is all lace-work
of the same kind ; and the Fort and Taj have also ela-
borate examples of this work, one panel in the screen
round the cenotaphs in the latter being carved out of a
single slab of marble over 6 feet high.

Of marble tracery at Delhi there are fine examples of
all ages, probably all the work of the Hindu artizans,
and appearing to increase in fineness and intricacy as it
reaches modern times. Among the earliest are the
window screens in the beautiful building, just behind the
Kutub Minar, known as Ala-ud-din's Gate, and dated
A.D. 1310. The tracery here is bold and massive, in
harmony with the tone of the whole work, which is the
latest and perhaps finest specimen extant of the first
Pathan period. In the enclosure of Nizam-ud-din's
tomb (close by the mausoleum of tho Emperor Huma-
yun) are tracery screens in white marble from the mid-
dle of the fourteenth century down to that of Mirza
Jahangir, constructed in 1832. As a mere piece of
workmanship this last excels the rest : and the tombs
comprised in this small cemetery will be found very in-
teresting to those who wish to compare the work of
various distant epochs.

But all the marble-work of this region is surpassed
by the monument which Akbar erected over the re-
mains of his friend and spiritual counsellor Shekh Suljm
Chishti at Fattehpur-Sikii (1581 A.D.). In the north-
west angle of a vast court-yard, 433 feet by 366 feet, is a
pavilion externally of white marble surrounded by a deep
projecting dripstone, of white marble also, supported
by marble shafts crowned by most fantastic brackets,
shaped like the letter S. The outer screens are so
minutely pierced that they actually look like lace at a
little distance, and illuminate the mortuary chamber
within with a solemn half-light which resembles nothing
else that I have seen. The whole of this elabota^tA
work, including the strange but moa\. ^\^«fijvxi% ^^'s^^^ ^

^^^ the bi

Handbook to Agra

the

the brackets, appear to have been produced by the n

dent atone-cuttera of the place, uneducated men earninfd

probably, an average w&|,re of about a penny a da^H

I believe that no instance of such pure patiunt work-T

manahip, so dignified yet so various, ia to be founii in

The aandstono Jdli\& used sometimes in tlie

interior of apartments, such as the female galler

I from which, as in our House of Commons, the Indiei

Qould look down on the meetings of men in halls below,

■£ut more commonly tbe work occurs in balustrades and

E parapets, where it has a fine effect. This stone comufl

from the Fattebpur quarries, or from Bhurtpoor ; the

white marble from Mukrana in the Jodhpur territories,

Tbe diSerenoe both in the cost of material and labour is

I very great; a small slab of marble carving of this kind
will cost £10, while one of sandstone can be obtained
for one-tenth of the price.
Lastly must be mentioned the modern practice o(
sftrving io soapstone. This material appears to be a ste^_
tite of BOuiewbat tough t-exture and a warm grey tiirifl
It comes from a place in the dominions of His Hig^H
ness the Maharaja of Jaipur, and unless too sharp j^B
high, it stands like leather though it cuts like cheese.
It forms into beautifully clean patterns, either floral or
arabesque, which are made into boxes, card trays, and
such like articles of drawing-room use. But a tiiM__
may be hoped for when ^hia cheap and pretty work jt
be extended to architectural decoration. I am not i
formed as to ita powera of standing weather ; but J
^^^_ the interior of halls and reception rooms its introdtM
^^^Len white walls and ceilings would have a fine effi
^^^Bkitber aa cornices, or mantel-mouldings, A handi
^^^V^ece of soapstone carving may be had for a few rup(
^^^ and the decoration of a whole dini[ig-n>om with it ci
hardly be more expensive than the decoration of \
aame walls with English paper-hangings.

APPENDIX B.

RULES FOR REDUCING HIJRI YEARS TO
THE CORRESPONDING DATE OF CHRIST-
IAN ERA.

There is this difficulty to be provided against in com-
paring Hijri with Christian years, that the former is a
lunar year of 354 days, the latter being the tropical or
solar year consisting (as is well known) of about 365;J.
The difference will be seen by observing that the era
begins from 15th July 622, when the prophet retired
from^ Mecca, and the present Hijri year (year of the
Hegira) is 1288-1289, which, if the mere addition were
made, would make the present Christian year 1910.
To correct this the following rough method may be
adopted : —

From the given number of Hijri years deduct 3 per
cent., and to the remainder add the number 622. . T**^
sum obtained gives the year A.D. in which tfep
man year in question terminated.

A more troublesome but more accurate
follows :

Express the Hijri date in years and deoim
multiply by '97 and add to the product 6*
sum will be the date A.D.

e.g., 1289-23 ( = third month) x -QT^ISP
621-55 = 1872-11 = 9th February, 1872, A.D.

APPENDIX a

RULE FOR THE INTERPRETATION OF

CHRONOGRAMS.

H^ r r I

•

^ »

1 a

cr*»i"

(. J ^

!*• r- r-

P^*

• r* ♦ r • • 1 • •

•

^ (je

-. V A..

I* ^ A

U» O ^ ^

S* A» V-

v.. 1.. O*.

UUa/o jU ^1^ ^& cA^t 3 ^ ^

^^^ G i3M^ (3m0 ^ 2$,)(j3 cit^jt
oILL vSmmjJ J ()^t V^OMfik o.««>ijf

" From ( t ) to ( (^ ) increase by units, and from
thence to ( ^ ) by tens ; the increments from ( o ) to p

Interpretation of Chronograms. 153

are hundreds. Proceed by this rule and you will get the
Abjud calculations free from error."

e, g. Chronogram of Mosque at Fattehpur-Sikri
i>x»f f 1^1 «ifir*'*'| ^yli (last word omitted) 500 + 1+50

+ 10 + 1 + 30 + 40 + 60 + 3 + 4 + 1 + 30 + 8

+ 200 + 1+40 = 979 A.H.

The chief composer of inscriptions in the time of
Akbar was a noble of Sindh named Mir Masum, whose
works are found from the Fort at Mandu to Tubreez in
Persia. The inscriptions on the Mosque and Shrine of
Fattehpur-Sikri are by him. — (Blochmann Ain-i-Akhari,
p. 514.)

APPENDIX D.

SOMNATH GATES.

The following letter from the well-known Artist
Mr. W. Simpson ought to be read by all who wish to
judge of the origin and character of these disputed doors.
It was addressed to the Daily News of London on the
death of Lord Ellenborough : —

Sir, — Tn your leading article of to-day upon the late
Lord Ellenborough you naturally make reference to the
Gates of Somnath. They were the great point of hia
celebrated proclamation after the Cabul War, and be-
came the palpable evidence to the religious minds of
the Hindu as well as the Mussulman population of
India, that the avenging army had done its work, and
that the Angrezzi Raj was still supreme. The present
may be a fair opportunity for clearing up what is not
generally known about these gates, and they have
occupied such a very important place in our Indian
history that it is right that the truth should be known.
I may tell you how I first became acquainted with them.
In 1860 they were in the Dewan-i-Am, or Public Hail
of Audience, in the Fort of Agra, where I suppose they
still remain ; but would suggest that their proper place
ought to be the South Kensington Museum. I made a
very careful sketch of them, including details of the
ornament. As I sketched, it struck me as strange that
the art contained nothing Hindu in its design. It was
all purely Mahomedan. Out of the thirty-two million
of Hindu gods there was not one of them visible. This
was so strange that I began making inquiries as to
whether they really were the veritable Gates of Somnath.
The answer always was that tViete ^YiOMVdVsfeT^^ da>ibt

Somnath Gates. 155

of it, and Lord Ellenborough's proclamation was in
every case referred to. To an artist historical evidence,
or even proclamation by a Governor-General, goes
little when there is a style of art opposed to them,
BO my doubts clung to me. Before leaving India I
had the opportunity of putting the question to Lord
Canning, a man far from indilBFerent to questions of
this sort, but even with him Lord EUenborough's pro-
clamation was the infallible guide. It was only on my
return to England, and in conversation with Mr. Fer-
gusson, that I got confirmation of what I suspected.
He agreed with me that the ornament was sufficient
evidence that they could not possibly be the Gates of
Somnath ; but he added — what I had not the opportu-
nity of learning in India — that the gates in the Dewan-
i-Am at Agra had been inspected with a microscope,
and they are of " Deodar pine " and not of sandal wood.
This fact, in spite of the proclamation, would command
a verdict against them from any jury.

Puttun Somnath, in Goojerat, contained one of the
most celebrated temples of the Brahmins. Mahmud
of Ghuzni, shortly after he came to the throne in A.D.
877, made a raid into India for the double purpose of
destroying idolatry and looting in that well-to-do country.
The wealth of Somnath led this Mahomedan hero in
that dirction, and after a desperate resistance he took
the place. Amongst the plunder he carried back to
Cabul the gates of the temple. They were of sandal
wood, and of great celebrity from their elaborate orna-
ment. After Mahmud's death these gates were put on
his tomb, and were treasured as evidences of Mahome-
dan conquest. The probability would seem to be that
the original gates were destroyed by fire, and when the
tomb was repaired, a new set of gates were made of
Deodar. These gates are not new, for they bear many
evident marks of age. Panels are smashed, and muiclv
of the ornament destroyed ; rude repairs «lt<s ^qtcw^ V>jO».
scrape of wood and iron ; and, cu^ioua\\B^K.\i^V««|«^^'^'*^

156 Handbook to Agra,

and west, there are a number of horse-shoes nailed upon
these old portals. As they were brought from Mahmud's
tomb at Ghuzni by our conquering army, they were an
evidence to the Hindu population of India that oar
power had no rival in the East. So far Lord Ellen-
borough's proclamation is correct enough, but now as
their political significance has ceased to be, it ought to
be known, for historical and archaeological reasons,
that they are not the gates of Somnath.

December 23rd, William Simpsok.

Lastly, it may be as well to mention that there is no real eri-
deuce that Mahmud ever carried away any gates from Somnath
ataU.— H. G. K.

(

APPENDIX E.

POPULATION OF AGRA EXCLUDING THE

SUBURBS.

Mahomedans

Hindus

Christians

Jains

Other religions

... 77,368 Female

... 38,328
... 97,372
... 4,073
... 1,009
406

Male ...

141,188
... 63,820

INDEX.

Aqba—

Pagt.

Anguri Bagh, the .... .

. 12

Bernier's description of ... .

.8,29

city walls, the .....

. 51

decline of the .....

. 123

Dewan-i-Am, the . . . . ,

. 8

dimensions and trade of ... .

. 2

Elephant Statues of, removed to Delhi

. HI

Furopean station .....

. 2

»ort, the .....

lounded by Akbar .....

. 1

invested by General Lake ....

. 19

Jesuit Fathers at .... .

. 40

Mausoleum of Akbar at Sikandra

. 44

occupied by Babar .....

1,107

occupied by Jowahir Singh ....

. 12

Palace, the ......

. 9

population of .

. 157

Suburbs of ..... .

. 48

Taj Mahal, thje .....

. 22

tomb of Itm^-ud*Daulah , . . .

. 35

Ajmir Gate ......

. 52

A&BAR—

ascends the throne .....

. 110

attempt to found capital at Fattehpur-Sikri

. 1,6

attempt to throw off the rules of Islam

. 80

established Palace at Agra ....

favoured the Catholics ....

. 41

family troubles .....

. 112

land settlement of .

. 113

residence at Fattehpur-Sikri and birth of Sulim .

. 58

takes the Fort of Chittur ....

. 110

tomb of, at Sikandra ....

tomb of Christian wife of .

Alawul Bulawul, shrine of ....

Am Khas, the . .....

. 10

Architecture of Hindustan ....

. 129

periods ....•••

. 133

Auranqzeb—

deposes Shah Jah^n .....

. 18

losses in Kabul .....

. 120

yictoriea in the Dekkan ....

. \70

Index. 169

_, Pagt.

BiBAk— _

oempied Agra ...... 1 107

ranmias of, tcmporarilj placed in the Ram Bagb . . I, 38

Baoli, deacrijitioQ of a . . . . . .49

BhchTtooh—

oity founded by Suraj Mull . . , , .85
description of the state . . . , .85
maQufactnre of chowris ■ ■ - . . 86
doBcnptioQ of the town ■ .... 86
ai^e by General Lake .... 86

tfatle °l 35 8a

BntDRABim ■■'-... 99

teatival of BrahiDotsab ■ ■ ■ , , 104

prosperity and religious eiclusiTeneBS eatabljahed by the

Goaains lOO

temple of Gobind Deva ..... 100

temple of Gopinath ...... 100

temple of Jugal Kiahor . . . . .100

temple of Madan Mohnn ■ ■ . . . 100

temple of Seth Gobind Daas and Radha KriahoD . . 108

Black Mosque, the . . . . . . .50

Black Throne, the . . . . . . .12

BOEDEAUI. AnODHTIN DB —

in service of Shah Jablin . . . . .26
eent by Shah JahAu to Goa .... H

Cantonments g

CaBVBD TbaCBBT ...... ISi, 14S

Itmlid-ud-Daulah'» tomb in . . . . .146

tilkandra, at . . . . .144

Sulim Chisbti's tomb, Fsttebpur-3ikri in . . . ijg

CatholieMiaaionOrpLftUBEe ■ - ... 3

Citholiis fsTOured by AUbar and Jah&Dgit . . ,41

Cemetery ----... 3

CfflHJ-KA-ROZA ....... Se

built by Ufraiil Khan .-..., 40
China tomb, the ; iie Chini-ka-Roia.

Ghittur, statuen of defenders of ... . ig

Chronograms, interpretation of . . . . . 153

College 3

Oopnl Bhnwun, the, placed at diBpoBal of travellera , 88

pakoe, the ....... 88

■eizure by Lord Lake . . .87

ooort, tlie, moTod to New Delhi .... VSx
D^iOat^tHa .-V.IKt'

160

Index.

the site is that of

Dewan-i-Am, the ....

finished in reign of Aurangzeb

gates of Somnath in .
Dewan Khas, the ....

Elephant Gates first erected at Agra and removed to

destroyed by Aurangzeb
European station ....

Firoz EJian's tomb ....

Fort, the . .

actual founder Sulim Shah
built by Akbar ....

Delhi Gate, the ....

Dewan-i-Am, the ....

during Aurangzeb's reign
invested by General Lake
Jamma Musjid ....

Moti Musjid, the ....

occupied by Bhurtpoor Ja,ts
opinion of Blochmann that

Pathan castle ....

palace, the .....
taken by Madhaji Sindhia
Well-house, the ....

Fattehpur-Sikri .

Ankh Michauli, the ....
attempt of Akbar to found capital at
Babar's battle with the Rajputs
Birbul's palace ....

Begum Sumru's garden

birth of Sulim, afterwards the Emperor Jah^ngir
Bolund Durwaza, the ....
cave, the, and the tomb of the saint
Christian lady's house

Dewan-i-Khas, the ....
Great Mosque, the ....
Hathi Pol, the ....

Hiran Minar ....

influence of the hermit Shekh Sulim Chishti
Khas Mahal, the ....

March-Phillipps*s narrative of the Mutiny of 1857, at
mint, the
palace at

principal Palace, the .
Punj Mahal, the
road to

tomb, the, of Islam Khan
Akbar's residence
Zenana, the
Ouru-ka-Tal and Mausoleum

Delhi

an old

Pam.

.8,72
. 8,10
. 14
.11,12

. Ill

. 122

. 2

. 52

. 6

. 20

. 6

. 7

. 8

. 18

. 19
6

. 16

. 18

. 52

. 70

. 1,6

. 108

. 64

. 55

. 59

. 56

. 62

. 59

.69,71

. 72

.58,73

.12,68

. 53

. 57

. 137

. 52

. 50

. 5»

.5,68

. 52

Index.

161

.•

GOVARDHAN—

Chuttri, the, of Buldu Singh ..
Chuttri, the, of Sunij Mull , •

Kusum Sarovar, the, or " Lake of Flowere '* .

Hessino—

Governor of Agra ....

tomb of • • • • •

Hijri years, roles for reducing to date of Christian era
Hotels .•••••

HUMAYUN—

defeated by Afghans in Behar and by Shir Shah

his tomb, the model of the Taj Mahal

leaves Agra

marries Hamida, mother of Akbar

succeeds Babar . . •

Itmad-ud-Dau lah —

carved tracery — tomb , . •

character of . •

description of . . .

title given by Jah^ngfr .
tomb of . .

Jahangib—

birth of • . •

builds Akbar's tomb at Sikandra

character of . .

marries Nur Jah^ . •

visit of Sir Thomas Boe
Jali • . . •

Jah^nglri Mahal, the . .

Jah^nura, Jamma Musjid built in name of
Jamma Musjid, description and date of
Jodah Bai, Princess of Jodhpore, tomb of
Jowahir Singh occupies Agra •

Judge's Court . . .

Kali Musjid, the . . .

KUMBHBB ....
Eurbula, the, at Agra • .

Ladli Begum, tomb of • •

Lake (Lord)—

invests the Fort . •

Magistrates' Offices • . .

Mahaban—

the modem Gokul . •

Nanda's Palace or Assi Ehamba

Man Sinha, Rajah •

Iftariam Zumani . • •

Mirza Hindal, tomb of •

iiinor tomhe, ko, . . ,

A«^ At Jx»

the Princess

Page,

89
89
90

124
3

161
2

108
109
108
108
108

145

35,137

. 58

44,117

117

118

134, 148

87
50
49

19
3

104
105

101

vs.

162

Index,

MoGHUL Empire—
by Bemier

Court life, description of, by Sherer
Historical notes

Mosaic work

in the Psilace in' the FoH ',

on the tomb of Itm^-ud-DauIah
the Taj

Mon MusJiD, the .

description by Bayard Taylor .

description by Ferg^sson
Muchi Bhowan, the .
Munubbut-Kari .

MUTTRA —

in the time of Fa Hian ,

pagoda, the

remains of Budhism

temple of Kesuva Rai .

temples in the time of Hwen Thsang

the centre of modern Hinduism

NuR Jahan

builds tomb of Itm^d-ud-Daulah

marriage of .

tomb of Jah^nglr and herself at Lahore

Palace, the

design of Shah Jah^n to beautify

Fergnsson's description of . .

Shish Mahal, the

Tavernier's description of

Unguri Bagh, the
Pearl Mosque, the ; see Moti Musjid.
Prison ....

Pachisi, marble pavement for game of

Ram Baoh —

called also garden of Nur Ufshan

probably summerhouse of Babar

the temporary resting-place of body of Babar

Reinhardt—

died at Agra ....
held command in time of Nujuf Khan
tomb of , . . .

Roe, visit of ....

" Rupee,** the, introduction by Shir Shah

Sadiq ELhan, tomb of . . .

Smw/ui Burg, the

Page,

124

107

133,144
144
145
145

134

92
97
94, 96
95
92
92

23
36
39
37

9
10
10
13
11
12

3
12

39
38

123

118

109

Indem.

163

5hah Jahan—

Page,

ascends the throne ....

. 118

began Palace of New Delhi

. 18

builds the Moti Mnsjid

builds the Taj Mahal ....

. 16

. 32

builds Unguri Bagh ....

. 13

deposed by Aurangzeb

18, 121

design to beautify gallery in the Palace

. 11

moves the Court to Delhi

. 120

>HiB Shah's Palace ....

. 20

introduces the " Rupee "

. 109

ihish Mahal, the .....

. 13

>IKANDRA . . . . . .

. 43

carved tracery .....

. 148

description of Akbar's tomb . . .

. 43

Akbar's tomb built by Jah^ngir

. 43

>oapstone ......

. 150

k>cheta, action fought during the mutiny at

. 53

toMNATH, the gates of ... .

. 14

letter from W. Simpson regarding

. 154

lULiM Shah—

founded the Fort ....

. 20

story of .....

. 20

lumru, gardens of the Begum . . . .

. 55

see Reinhardt.

.^AJ Mahal, the ......

. 22

Bayard Taylor's description of . . .

. 27

Bemier's description . . . , .

. 29

built in honour of Mumtazi Mahal by Shah Jah^n .

. 23

cost of . •

. 26

date of building . . . . .

. 24

measurements ......

. 32

Mosaic work ......

. 144

Taveruier's description . , . . .

. 31

Jnguri Baoh, the .

. 12

English families accommodated during 1857 .

V^ell-house, the ......

. 18

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-rtWOUldbBciiffiol

t to give a more grt

lhl« piCtUK

of an Ind

in Frontiar

ion."— rAe Ti

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Ivea, tbsir
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of Ibe cooatrj

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btbito

itid expeneni

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ra. Tbe 1

blight and

e photograplm," — B

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INDIAN BACINQ REMINISCENCES : Bbino ENTBRTAiNiNa Kabba-

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Ks,S-S.

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e book."— niMMfl

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TB&ntmO AND EOBSE KAKAQESIENT IN IHOIA. Bi Oaftadt M.
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^ SPOET AND VETERINARY WORKS.

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■ ' ^

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" The »uthora of ' DoftB for Hot Clim

A BOBBEBY PACK IN INDIA : How to collbot, trsin akd hcw

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QOIDE TO EZAHINATION OF HOUSES rOR Souhdne^ rOK Bm-
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BIDINO FOR LADI£S, WITH EINTS ON THE STABLE. A laDTt

'■ ' " Willi 7i ■■

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INDIAN NOTES ASODT DOQS.

ANQUNQ ON THE EtnUAON LAKES.

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"Written with all tbe teniicrneaa and atteiiiion 10 delnil irhieh eliatnotenn
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THE ABMS ACT (XI OF 18TB). WITH ALL THB NoriuBa OP TaB GoT-
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" n. and HiKh Court Dfciai(fn» and UuliNgj. By W. Hiwiuu. ,

THAGKEB, Sl'lNK & CO., CALCUTTA.

fjport and Vetevinary World.

P KODEEN POLO. A GtTIDX TO THB GAMB, WITH iNSTBtJCmOlTa OV IBM
W ; Seleelion snd Training of tha PoDiea, Bv E. D. Ui\A,Ka (lata 17tk

. „ r, „. „. •„_ „._.___,^jg

UncFTs). Edited by Uapt. M,
:lolh. Rs.T""
Co«T«FT«;— Firai StfpB i
I— ChooBine » Polo Pc

I, Sates. Illiutiated frool PhotosriilU

'olo— TLaorv >nd Ptactica of Polo— Polo Ap-
— Tninitii,' the Polo Pony— Polo Pony Qeai^
ua Brceda ol Poln Poniea— Ptlo id India—
iry Advice to Polo Players — Appeudix—

1 vaterana alike may itady with pleaaart

laid ba ■ lext-book on the aubject."— 5(.

tHr. UilleJ
h'iD tbe ma

fcrytliin,

i euccaeded admirably i

\d.

of polo playing anil in t

a of a certain authority. — Ttmet.

Miller for prodndng wb«t
! aubject." — Scolnun.
bia task then

if choosing

explained,

n polo ponies are excelleat." — Spoyting Lijt,

T FOLO : Thb Tbainivq and Gbneru. Treatment or Polo

ler with Typea an,l Traits ot Plavers. Uy U. Hi.OH
C1»RB). Crown BvD, elolh, Ha, 2; Paper, Re. 1-8.
s Pnln Pony— The Raw Pony— Preliminary Training—
-Stable Unnaueinent—Tricka-Injuries-Sboeing— Station
Bdw shall We Play7-'The Proeraatmator- I'he Polo Scurry— JJio-

-Typea— InJividual v. Combined Tactica- Odda and Rmla,
XOLEA. RuLBa or thb Caloittta Polo Club ans of thi

" ,a Polo Aaeociatian, with the Arlicle on Polu bv " An Old Hand," Ha-

id from Bayef S/iorling A'enw, Fcap, Xvo, ^e. 1,
■pLO CALEHD&B. Coufilbd bt thb iHDtAN POLO Aaao-
pa n- CuHTENTa :— Commiitee oI Stewarda, Kulea for the BeKulatloq
J^oornamentJj, Ac.— Itulaa of the Game— Station Polo— LUt of
Itbers— Liat of Bxistine Polo Poniea. namea and de^cHption, witb
dubeucal Lial — Itecorda ot Touraamanta — Previnua Winnan,
iTlI, I89S-84, aaoh Re. 1-8. Vol. Ill, 1894-95, Ba. 2. Vol, 1^
(B-96, Ra, 2. Vol. V, 1B9G-97, Ra. 3. Vol. VI. I837-9H only,
r Polo.— From the Polo Calendar. Rerind 1897. U. 8.

T3ACKER, SPINK & CO., G^UlTJ-V^K.

Tkaeker, Spink & Co.'i Publicationi.

'uUicatiotu. ^H

NE, BTC. .^M

CEDICAL TREATlr^H
inuR. v.D., 1.1* frinci^

MEDICINE, HYGIENE, arc.

iatTa FOB TB£ KANAQEHEHT AND KEDICAL TREAT1

Clillilreii ID Indi*. Bv Bdwiiid A. BinuR. ji.c, l.i*

Medical CnHeg.'. Cdooita. Tliiid Eilitioii. lieviAed. Bcixs the Niild

Edition of ''Gso'ler* ■ Ilinu ti-i the Slana^emeni of Cliililrcii in liiilih

Crown 8vD, alotii. Re. T.

he iftdieal 7'ma and GtatUt. in mi urticie uhdii this work muiT Uwnl

imily Medioine for Incii»." 5iit« :— " 'I'lie iwo worki bflore us ura in cbM

. .ea prohabLy shout the beat flxamplG^ of meditinl workftwritieii fornM

profeBiiiuTial leaileFs. The slTle of uob is siinuie, and aa free ■■ poutU
i;o„,t«hni«lexpree,ion«;- - _, ^

Bii Bahadui

emiteij- Re-w

'■ItBliuwsinin

UMlul

the work

gloBBsry til iQe vernacular naniE
" Hia wiii'k is a coin pen dim
widelj' popiilar »iid carefully *ti
THE BUBONIC FLAOtlE. By A,
Cliief MedieaL Oflicei

d index af 4.000 refi
'•-t--idianD--ily "
of 40

h. J
niry abiKedl

I years' eiperieiice and desenwlok^
-EAgluhman. i

. Mrra*. i..b.c.p., l.h.c.s., tjcM

IvQ. Hevtad. Ke. 1. '

"To Ibe busy praciitioaer or ilie medical atudrnt
at a correct and iDtelligeni Knidr." — Mediaal Seeoni.
BANTnia m INDIA. with soub Reuaees

in (ieneral. By 8urj;n..Lini[.-Ciil. JoBllUA Dlilt

Be. 1-8.
OUTLINES or MEDICAL JDRISPRDDEHCE FOBIBDU.

Ghibbl«. m.c.b, (Heuredl, and I'.thick Hkhii., M.n., »..i

EdiTJoD. Revised, Enlarged, and Annotated. Demy 6vo, It

aCDIMEHTB OF SANITATION. FoK IhDiAN Schools. Bv Paw

TEE BABT. Notes c

■ - lU. By S. U. :

r THE Fbedino, Rbarino

0. elo'ih. Ri. i:.

TBAOKKB. 8FINK & CO„ CALCUTTA.

Medicine, fft/ffien

ITBODtrcnON TO KATERIA. MEDICA FOB INDIA. Giving th»
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(H.EBA EFISEHIC m EASHUIB, 1S92. By A. MlTBA, L.K.O.F..
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4lu, aewed, y.e. I,

B tNDIAH MEDICAL SERVICE. A Guide fok intbndbd Oandi*

datea foe Cninmi^Diuiia an,! l„r [lie Junior Officers nf the Serfioe, By I
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BtrS; OB, INTEBMITTENT FEVER. Br M. D. O'OOSSEL, M.D

mORT TEEATISE ON ANTIBEPTIC BDEQEEY. ad*pteii O TBI
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BE LANDUAEES OF SNAKE-POISON LITEBATintE ; BEING j
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Bt Tincknt RiCHMiUH, F.ii.c.a. £u., Jic., Civil Uediul Olllcer of
Soaluiido, BeiiKBl. Ra. 2-8,
I OABLSBAD TBEATHENT FOE TROPICAL AILMENTS, JlVD How
ID curry it uui in India. By UurKiu-Mujor L. Taklkton Tou
Ex. fcap. SVQ. Kb. 4.

A boik not onlr moat ubqEuI anil moat inatraclive, bat very re
nwioe."— Pionter.

The bonk ia ol a moat useful nature, aud inapirea confidei . __

door ind Inlueaa a( iia inlormaiion and pointa of guidauoe." — Iriih niMi.

THACKEE, SPIHK 4 CO.j CAUQCKi-

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FEEBOIf AL AND DOMESTIC HYQIENE foe the School &hd Hod

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1limT.ATl.TA ; ITS CiTJSB iND EPPECTa ; MauRI* AND THl BPUBl
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^^^n>i

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MDLTBT-EEEFIHa IN INDIA. A Simple and Pkactical Boos

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delightful]; guy,
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*- .'T.

i I

_ 'Tery practical ihroiigbout. There ouuld not be bett«r advice than tbii

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THACKEB, SPINK & CO., CM^\STtK.

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THACKER'S INDIAN DIRECTORIES AND MAP&
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THACKER'S IHOIAK DIBECTOBT. Official, Lbgai., Encu-
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A TEA PLANTER'S LIFE IK ASSAM. Bt Gborgk M. BabI
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MILITARY WORKS.
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Edition. 8fo. Its. 9.
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INDIAN FBONTIBB WABFABE (A SEOKT PAUPBLET), By Major
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A POCKET-BOOK OF COLLOQUIAL UBDIT for MrLiTART Rbookna]

DTTBODIJCTOBT EXERCISES TS UEDU PROSE COMPOSITION.

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pr^ndiM," — Indian Daily Ntui,

^ THACKEB, SPINK ^ IXI.^ OAUSJ^t-.

Tkacker, Spink /(• L'o.'t I'tibtieattotu.

^ HINDUSTANt, PERSIAN, vto.

SL0SSAB7 OF HEDICAL AND MEBICO-LEQAL TEBHS. CTCi.Tn>IIia

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" Tbe manual >1lDt;#(her dejervu high i
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p LAND TENURES AND LAND EEVENUE.

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COSTBHTS;

The Bratunaiu— The Military Castee— Tbs Saieatilic Contoa— The Writer
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ArtiBBQ CaatBB-Tha A^cultural Castes— The Cowherda and Shephordj-
Domeatic Serranta — MiBoellaneous Castes.

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to briog about Union between Hindus and Mahomedana.

Pbksb Notices.

"A ValUBblBBork The Author has tho oourage of his couTictJons and

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tollowmsn,"— flfij Hiirf P.ayiitt.

TEACKER, SPINK. & CO.. CUfcX'

I fattened on ^fc

INDEX.

Abbott. aqiilb«fropithB"PlH." ..
Aborigt-Matkny. Central Indtan

Adama. Prinelpal BvenU In Indian

■ " 4Ub1i HMury t

ind HeDdenon. Ciimlntl

lure '

IndlBu Pema Code .. i

N.-W. P. LondHavunue.. i

Aitlten. Trtbea on Hj Prontlor ..

Batind the Bmigaiow

NutursJtat on tliB Prowl . .

AkbM. ByMn. BeveridgB .. .. 1

AleiBiider. Indian Giute-Law onTo™ 1
All, Oheragh. Hiposition ol the
ponuJar "■ Jthftd" .. .. .. 1

All, jUneor. Btblca n( Iilsm

Uoliunedui Law, 2 vols. . . '■

StiidenC'e Handbook ■■ <

AUphChoom, Lttyiotind..

AnutiinraBrdonerintlieHmi .. 1

AndBnau'a Indian Lettar-1Vrit«r .. I

BalUlo. KumcliH

BuinfiH. Uevumgsri Alpluibet .. !

MarrUwe nnd Strldluiu .. ■

B*rkBr. Tea iMiinter'" Life .. .. :
Bu-lDW. Indian MeliHJIiis ..

BwTDW- Sopoy OIBcur'B Maniird . . '

BBttonHj. Practipal Hyirfcni. . :
Beddome. Handbook tii Vcms uid

Belsfunbom. RuIob and Onlers '.'. i
Boll Studont'BHandbiwktoHiunU-

tionaudMiU

IJIWB of WBBltli .. .. 1

OavommenC of India .. I

-angall ,, 1

ent ol Childran IS, 3
toPalm ,

Old Calcu

mgnold. Lot
Bircb. Hanat

Bone. Hlndui
BrouKlit™- <--
BnHb»d. Bohoea
a— Major. HorBB

Dog Koto

Caluntts Tin-t Olulj

— — -^^ RaolnA Oolondar, Volumaa . .

UnivBiaity Calanda"

Guide

Calthrup, BitmieBe Talin
Oamogy. Kacbart Tcchnloslitios
Coahmir on lamille
Caaperas. Law of Oatoppol
ChiiniBrB. NegoMablB loatm
CbBS Toun. Buddhlil Iaw
Olarko. Oompoaitn IndicD . ,

■Awarlfu-i-Ua'arif '.'.

Coldatrsoni. Onuuoi of Uu Sai

GolebrookB. LUbvbU

Conntitatlon of tbo Ooiirii'

Currle. Law BiBmluatlDtL Hon
OuthelL Indian IdyllB
Doakbi. IrrlBaled India
Do BourlH]. Jtoutca in Eaahnilr
Dey. ludinsnuuH Drugs
Donogh. otamp Law . .
DunFarin, Lady. Tbraa Tsara' Wc
Duko. Ban ting in India
DutC Literstura of Bongol
BdwardB. Notea no HiU'a Hnmi:
Hbort Hiitory ol R-i^

Elm. Set
Engliali &

FlBld. LnncDi"!

ulntions

Fink. Ann

Fire Iniunu

is of Roia'a Bnqulry J

Ifomat. ImJum Mutiny ..

FoisjOi. HaveniMj SiOa-Lnw
Proba-t* wid AdminlstiBHo

FreemBo. Buuga of KhMh ..
OenrgE. Qulde to Baak-keoping .
GllM. Antlseptlo auTBOT ..
Godfrey. Tba CaKUili'sCBiiglitar.
OogoL The InHpectiu

RhjTiilIilr njiBandfl of Inii

jBot. Lalu
uul Bahli. Iiledicikl Juri»

I] GayBthl ChimotDr

latnarit-Wny pHukntBonkf! *
itntfiTipliii; aodoty M,»B j

3"bburvPflVltinin<lu'; M
.Uliivitaignimltra ..Ml

nllolht..

— Mvrt;,fi^ In CliU Luir

meiina for Indli
Imea'Ciil Rhymai

ion SorvicB Manuul _ ..
'eniineiit OSIae Uuiunl 3t
. Tlie lualieutw

- P.UBCBiolL

Kolly. Fraclii^il Sumeiina for
Ktntish Koe- lEedmea'bil Rhrmai

King-. Oiiido to RoyiJ Bolai

irman. l(DCDIUi(titRn''i
. Lar)jB Qaat SbMIiiig

r —

^r ikdb:. ^S^I

Fade.

PWj

mil Gtfiso. Spoocheii

p'Ilifr3ighta .. .. :; :: lo

( Iiid

Philataliu Jounml o( India ,. 4fl

Pbllipp.. RUT6UUB and OoUootorato

Ltive Acts. Anuunl Volumu

Law w

■idg«. MondBMcUngBook..

OurAdmlnihtraHonotlndla ST

llotes OD tho Gnniwiu

Land Toniires' of Lowor~

Kngliab PfloiAo Bnd tholr
^^dT Smsll Cmiirj Court Ast

Bengal J7

I'iiani. Patholiigy nalapstaeFmar 10
PocketCodoofflrilLaw .. .. W

iFgnalL^mi «

■ the CIyU DirtdonB df Indio

.I«u8ofOrdorsintli«FWd w

PoosbklQ. Ths Captains Itoughtor 6

PoBook on Fraud g|i

.■Lotte™™T«.tl«.. ^

PuQdor. Indian Miiteria UBdica " m

-- iDiTMiira md Dolonce of

all, Diitiob Pf Msgletrato ..
idiirsLifeofK-CS™
idle. PtalBuiv

Puwell. Myam-Ma . .. .. Jn
Poyndflr. Indian ArtiiJe. of War .. N
Prannoth. Hindu L..W of itadow-

ftCSp. CrtmlialPn^cduri' " M

_ BrjthrMiD 8c» .. ..

Baolng Calendar 14

-KMBlM

il .md Sanitiuy Roform
Wdb'sBookoiCaksB..

- ■ - — Ouido to Hinduataiil 11

n. Stray Straw.

Fockat Book of OolloquW

und Havoa. Modom VaJo . .

Urdu .^, n

TnuiEfiir of Property

Kay. Poverty Problflm in India ,. 11

Rcaimonl.d iUiymu .. i; ,

Reld. Iiiguiry into Humim Mind.. H
— oWinabair^uid ,, " 3,

-Pri'.y'couBcSDt^Bt :'

-BubonioFlaguo

of Indi)(o .. ., „ «

"^"ST.. :: :

HflgiilutlunBoflbBBoiiualCodB „ BT

«ioo,CmoocoolOhm.dDr ..

Boynolds, N.-W. P. Ront AM .. 3T

Rlcbaria. Bnaka-Polson Llt«ratuM U

lti»at LimitatiDn Act .. ." u

, TheBabj " V.

RoDumoe of TIiak^t« .. 4

y-Aynilsy. Hills beyond

Rows and Webb. Comcauloa Raailar u

Boxhurgh. Flora Indi™ ^^ ^

-ma. By Tuayii

BubbeB. Origin of Uia Mohame-

dansinBengal ,. ., ' g

S»^h. ,.„.., .i- :

Rumaoy. Al-Sli»Jlyyab »
KHsflolL afularla .. " ™

m. Calcutta to Liverpool .

am. auldetoUiuuri..

Sea, KenbiibOhunder "

Guru Parshad. HimluUni iD

nolL Apu

Hlindwall. Lookhart's Adimnw through

jigbue. Biding lor Ladies .

aaly. drtlPruceduie.. .

ahaw aail ftiiea. -ii.^ '■tan ^rft^

ool Chuoder Hwlurjn

cunatas .; - - -^

Hpeiu). Indian Beady Hi

Rtstinn FdId

BT Ontecbiim ot Sanl-

Blpleii, Judicial Evi-

Qtov. Quftdruplox Telo^Tvphr

LecturoB on Tolegraphy .

StriiigfellDW. Bunking PmctioB i

Indlri

BiitliorlDnd. DtgosC, IniUan Law

Bwintod. CoBo-NDled Ponal Cf

Tkwaoy. MalaTilciu^nlmltrH . .

BliBrtriliBrT

. EogJiab PeoplH and

LaQffuMfi
Tomplo-Wiielit. riowe

5-WrIelit. 1

TlieOBDphJcai Chriftianity
Tlinmiui. HodtnTrdia
Tbuilllor. HuiubI cf SiirvDvbig .
To<nibee. Chaukldarl M&niW
Travolynn. Imk of Minon
Twaed. Cow-kuping in IndU

Poiiltry-keeplng in Indls -

Tweodle. HinduBtsni, and Key ..
TjMko. Bportamui'H Manilla 1
UnderwDod. Indina SngUih

WalkBT. Angling ',[ '.'.

Ward. »port*man'i Guiilc to Suhaii
Watson. RsUwByOurToa ..
Webb. Indian Lj-ricv . . ,,

Indian Medical Servlos ..

KngUili KaquotM ..

BntninCBTaat BxamioslJan

Whuolar. Talea Ircim"lDdiwi Bl^'.

toiT II

Wlit^. Dscadaut Dittlm .,

WhlBh. Diitriot Offloe In K.

Wliitd. Hone, HiimeBB and Tivp ..
WtlUsB. Hindu Uythobgy .,

- — ModBm Hinduimi

WllUonuon. Indian Field Spuria ..
Wilson and Whoaler'i Bthiea
WilioD. Anglg.Uabomodan Law—

Introduction

AnglQ - Mahomednn Law —

DIgeat

Early innal«o( Bengal ..

Wood. Fifty QtadTiatod Papori in

Arttlimutic, He.
Wocdnjan. Digest, Indian Law

Woo^^lfe. Law of Evidence
lonuc. Oarlabad TroatmeDt

}

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