AlllheWay'feund
by
Edith Ogden Harri son
JOSEPH andMAB EL WRIGHT
THEIR BOOK
LIBRARY
UNlVERSIff ^
CALIFORHA
SAN DlESft
"O ye who tread the Narrow Way
By Tophet-flare to Judgment Day,
Be gentle when 'the heathen' pray
To Buddha at Kamakura!"
ALL THE WAY ROUND
THE STORY OF A FOURTEEN MONTHS' TRIP
AROUND THE WORLD
By
EDITH OGDEN HARRISON
Author of
Below the Equator, The Lady of the Snows, etc.
CHICAGO
A. C. McCLURG & CO.
1922
Copyright
A. C. McClurg & Co.
1922
Published December, 1922
Printed in the United States of America
To my husband
Carter $. ^arrteon
FOREWORD
IN SENDING forth this record of our fourteen months'
journey around the world, I wish to acknowledge my debt
to my husband, a vigorous guide and splendid companion, who
has generously provided me with the photographs, taken by
himself, from which the illustrations are made.
— E. 0. H.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
I Europe ; France, Germany and Spain 1
II The Great East ; the Front Door to India, Colorful
Bombay 17
III The Land of Temples and Tea ; The Frozen Pearl
of Agra 29
IV The Problem of England in India 42
V The Ganges; Ghandi, the Great Reformer ... 50
VI The ''Back Door" of India: Calcutta 65
VII Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest, Roof of
the World 73
VIII Madras and Madura ; Hall of a Thousand Pillars ;
Golden Lily Tank 88
IX Ceylon, The Pearl of the Indies ; Kandy ; Temple
of Sacred Tooth 99
X From Rangoon to Mandalay 118
XI A New "September Morn;" Burma; A Burmese
Wedding 131
XII Malaysia, Penang, The Snake Temple, East and
Far East, Singapore 143
XIII Manila; The Philippines 151
XIV English Hongkong and Chinese Canton .... 162
XV Across China; Shanghai, Canton, Suchow, Nan-
king, Peking 170
XVI The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking ; Onward
to Manchuria 187
XVII Manchuria, Her Relation to China ; Korea, Her
Unrest and Hostility to Japan 207
XVIII In the Little People's Country — Lovely Japan . 217
XIX The Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism and
Shintoism; Gifu; Yokohama 241
XX Beautiful Nikko ; Japanese Red Cross ; Ju- Jitsu ;
Homeward Bound 255
ILLUSTRATIONS.
PAGE
Buddha, Kamakura Frontispiece
Chateau of Chenonceaux 2
Chartres on the Eure 2
Amiens Cathedral 2
Chaumont 2
Chateau Blois, France 3
Fagade, Louis XII wing, Chateau Blois 3
A Bruges nunnery in which lace is made 3
Broodhuis, Grand' Place, Brussels 6
Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, Brussels 6
Hotel de Ville, Louvain 6
Cloth-hall, Mechlin, Belgium 7
Doge 's Palace, Venice 10
Facade, St. Mark's, Venice 10
San Nicholas de la Villa, Cordova 11
Santiago del Arrabal, Toledo 11
Burgos Cathedral 11
Cordova Cathedral was formerly a mosque 11
House of El Greco, Toledo 14
Court of the Lions, Granada 14
Roman aqueduct, Segovia 15
Stone elephants, Victoria Gardens, Bombay 22
Entrance to the Victoria Gardens, Bombay 22
Everybody attends the races in Bombay 23
A Dilwarra Temple 26
A Jain shrine in a Dilwarra Temple 26
An interior view, Dilwarra Temple 27
Pillars of a Dilwarra Temple 27
Illustrations
PAGE
Huge elephants of alabaster in a Dilwarra Temple 27
A busy corner, Jaipur 30
Gate to Jaipur, the "Pink City" 30
Minaret piercing the sky, Jaipur 31
A eoach, Jaipur 34
A carriage, Jaipur 34
A temple at deserted city of Amber 35
Detail of an old temple at Amber 35
Transportation to Amber 35
Taj Mahal : a white marble dream 38
Jain Temple, Agra 39
An interior view, Pearl Mosque, Agra 44
Jasmine Tower, Agra 44
Pearl Mosque, Agra 44
Khas Mahal, Agra ; Jasmine Tower on the left 45
Birbol's Palace, Futtipur-Sikri 48
Miriam's Palace, Futtipur-Sikri 48
Diwan-i-Khas, Futtipur-Sikri 48
Elephant gate, Futtipur-Sikri 48
Sheik's Tomb, Futtipur-Sikri 49
A general view of Futtipur-Sikri 49
Akbar 'a Tomb, Secundra 52
Benares, the Holy City 53
A corpse being immersed in the Ganges before burning 53
A funeral pyre, burning ghat, Benares 53
Mighty Kinchinjinga towers 28,000 feet above sea level 76
Another view of Kinchinjinga 77
Ready for swimming, Madras 90
Car of Juggernaut, Madras 91
Madura Temple 94
Coolie girls, Madura 95
A Holy Man, Rangoon 124
Golden Pagoda, Rangoon 124
Illustrations
PAGE
Great Bell at the Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay 125
Burmese women at prayer, Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay 125
A palace, Mandalay 132
Grounds of a palace, Mandalay 132
Entrance to a palace, Mandalay 133
Entrance to the Queen 's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 136
Detail, Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 136
Queen's Golden Monastery, Mandalay 136
A monastery, Mandalay 137
Docks at Singapore 146
The carabao (water buffalo) is the horse of the Philippines. . 147
Market, Baguio 160
People come from the hills to the Baguio market 160
Igorrotes at the Baguio market 160
An Igorrote youth 161
In Canton 's Roof Garden 164
Sampan Colony, Canton 164
Taking a siesta in a Canton pagoda 165
Incense Burner, Suchow 168
Oldest Pagoda, Suchow 168
Tiger Hill Pagoda, Suchow 168
A picturesque bridge, Suchow 169
In front of City Temple, Suchow 169
A barber, Suchow 169
A garden, Suchow 169
Holy "Way to the Ming Tombs, Nanking 172
Professional beggars seen at the Ming Tombs, Nanking 173
Drum Tower, Nanking 176
Bell Tower, Nanking 176
Pagoda of the War God, Nanking 177
A large square outside the Forbidden City, Peking 180
A part of the Forbidden City, Peking 180
Grand Peace Palace, Forbidden City, Peking 181
Illustrations
PAGE
Camels from the Western hills 181
Lama Temple, Peking 184
Temple of Heaven, Peking 184
An outer gate to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 184
Entrance to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 185
A gate to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 185
Near the Lama Temple, Peking 188
Near the Central Gate, Forbidden City, Peking 188
Yellow Temple, Peking 188
An entrance to the Temple of Heaven, Peking 189
Grounds of the Temple of Heaven, Peking 189
Grounds of the Temple of the Universe, Peking 192
Marble Pagoda near the Jade Fountain, Peking 192
Entrance to the Temple of the Green Clouds, Peking 192
Grounds of the Temple of the Green Clouds, Peking 192
Temple of Prayer, Peking 193
Entrance to the Lama Temple, Peking 193
Marble Pagoda, Peking 196
Pagoda of Thirteen Layers, Peking 196
Winter Palace, Peking 197
A scene at the Winter Palace, Peking 197
Grounds of the Summer Palace, Peking 200
Summer Palace, Peking 200
Bridge near the Marble Boat, Peking 200
Marble Boat, Summer Palace, Peking 200
Drum Temple, Peking 201
Grounds of the Summer Palace, Peking 201
Hall of Classics, Peking 204
Gateway to the Hall of Classics, Peking 204
Holy Way to the Ming Tombs, Peking 205
An elephant figure, Holy Way, Peking 205
A young Lama priest, Peking 208
In summer attire, Peking 208
Illustrations
PAGE
On a country road 208
The Great Wall of China 209
Another view of the Great Wall 209
A gateway, Seoul 212
A street scene, Seoul 212
White Buddha, Seoul 213
The women of Seoul dress picturesquely 218
Seoul children 218
The men of Seoul are a curious sight 218
A park scene, Seoul 218
Museum, Seoul 219
Entrance to the Museum, Seoul 219
Miyajima, one of the show places of Japan 222
Lanterns at Miyajima 222
A very pretty Japanese girl 223
A Buddhist temple, Kioto 226
An entrance to a Buddhist temple, Kioto 226
The most venerated temple is the Kiyomizu-dera 227
A garden crossing, Kioto 227
A curious effect is obtained by stooping and looking back-
wards 230
Amano-Hashidate, the most beautiful spot in Japan 230
An entrance to Nara 231
Horyu-ji Temple, Nara 231
Kasuga-jinga Temple, Nara 234
We constantly passed pilgrims 234
A scene in Nara 235
Entrance to the Horyu-ji Temple, Nara 235
Yokushi Pagoda, Nara 238
A five-storied pagoda with a wonderful bell 238
Big Bell Tower, Nara 239
Yokushi Bell Tower, Nara 239
'Ricksha teams, Koyasan 242
Illustrations
PAGE
Pilgrims to Koyasan monasteries 242
Near the entrance to Koyasan 243
Kondo or Golden Hall, Koyasan 243
A cemetery, Koyasan 246
A pagoda, Koyasan 246
A gate to a cemetery, Koyasan 247
A monastery garden, Koyasan 250
Burning paper prayers, Koyasan 250
A scene in Nagoya 251
Entrance to the Higashi Hongwanji, Nagoya 251
Front of Buddha, Kamakura 256
A splendid cryptomeria grove, Nikko 257
Tomb of Iyeyasu, Nikko 260
Torii before the Tomb of Iyeyasu, Nikko 260
The superb gates are world-renowned 260
Through the gorge of the Hodzu River 261
ALL THE WAY 'ROUND
CHAPTER I
EUROPE; FRANCE, GERMANY, AND SPAIN
A DESIRE for knowledge is inbred in us all. To
visit strange people, to see curious sights, to study
unusual customs — who has not thrilled at the thought !
Small wonder, then, that when the call came to us we
started, filled with enthusiasm, to encircle the globe. We
would sail across the seas. We would linger in ancient
temples and glory in their beauty. We would stand on
the edge of the towering Himalayas, and from the rim
of the world peep across at the great Indian plains. We
would visit the land of Confucius. We would study the
bland, sleek Chinaman; and in the country of the little
people — lovely Japan — we would revel in beautiful
scenery. How the restfulness and joy of such a trip
appealed to one who, like myself, had led so busy a life !
The thought was bliss.
Such was the innocent belief of a woman setting forth
on a fourteen months' tour around the world! I found
the ease and comfort of such a journey to be wholly
theoretical — the work about the hardest I had ever
done in my life. I had in my husband a strenuous guide
— one who had set forth fully determined to see all that
there was to see. Nothing in the line of travel was to
escape him! I may say right here that his plan was
1
All the Way 'Round
conscientiously carried out; and although we lost flesh
and were at times almost exhausted in our efforts to see
and learn, we had not a day's illness.
To India via Europe
The lure of the Orient was upon us. India and the
Far East were our objective points. But we knew that
the Europe of today is not the Europe of yesterday, and
as my husband's war work had not permitted him to see
much of it while there, and as I had remained at home,
we decided not to let the opportunity go by without
visiting some of the famous places.
During his long years of service as Mayor of Chicago
Mr. Harrison's one relaxation was found in his fondness
for art. Almost all of his spare moments when in Chi-
cago are spent at the Art Institute, and he had a long-
ing to visit again the famous galleries of Europe. This
decided us. So one day we gathered our little clan —
children and grandchildren — about us, had a royal feast
and gaily bade them au revoir! We sailed from New
York on a French liner — a slow voyage of ten days
which we greatly enjoyed — landing in Havre toward
the end of May. We had had a beautiful sea voyage, felt
in fine feather and made our first stop at Rouen, en route
to Paris.
We considered ourselves fortunate to have reached
Rouen just when we did. The people were celebrating
Chateau of Chenongeaux Chartres on the Eure
Amiens Cathedral Chaumont
Chateau Blois, France
Facade, Louis XII wing,
Chateau Blois
A Bruges nunnery in which lace is made
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain
the anniversary of the execution of Jeanne d'Arc. The
cathedral was beautiful, and for the first time since the
war they had taken out of hiding all the precious and
wonderful relics so long and so carefully guarded. The
oratorio had been written especially for the occasion and
was a thing long to be remembered. We were fortunate
enough to obtain seats in the cathedral and therefore
enjoy it to the fullest. The art treasures alone here are
worth a king's ransom; the embroideries and tapestries,
shown also for the first time since the war, are priceless.
The whole scene was impressive and magnificent. It
formed a delightful entree to France. Then came Paris
with all its indescribable beauties, the greatest city on
earth. In its beautiful galleries and gardens, on its won-
derful boulevards, we lingered and loved it. For Paris
is the city of enchantment — a fact conceded by all who
have been there. During the sunny glare of the day or
under the brilliant lights ©f the night, it is ever the
same beautiful, dreamy city, with a character all its
own. Everybody finds satisfaction in Paris, from the
lover of art who seeks pleasure at The Louvre and the
Luxembourg, to the gourmet who haunts restaurant and
cafe, from the couturier es — the world's most finished
artists of dress — to the playgoer who spends all his
spare time at the opera or theater.
We passed a month in the smaller towns of France.
Here we might perhaps have been saddened because of
All the Way 'Round
the ravages caused by the war. But it was not so. For
right alongside of, and in the midst of them, we were
constantly witnessing France's tremendous and splendid
recovery.
Adventure in a Music Hall
"We went from Paris to London in order to secure a
better passage to Bombay. Here I had a funny experi-
ence. It was in a crowded music hall. Seated so near to
us that our chairs jammed against each other, were a
dapper young Englishman and a Russian woman. From
the quarrel in which they were engaged I gathered that
they were married — but not to each other! She was
reproaching him violently for having broken an engage-
ment with her. The angrier she got the more embar-
rassed he became, and at last he said in excellent French,
" Please speak French or Spanish. This American
woman next to you understands every word you are
saying!" Now, as I was born and brought up in New
Orleans I speak French as well as my mother tongue,
and I was highly indignant at this impertinent British-
er's insinuation that Americans are uneducated and capa-
ble of speaking only one language. My husband and I
manage to make ourselves understood in several, and
we are not at all unusual! So after this speech the
entertaimnent ceased to attract me. Boiling inwardly,
I just had to sit and hear them quarrel, in a language I
understood quite as well as my own. At last, unable
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 5
to contain myself longer, I turned to them and said as
coolly as I could, "If you wish to exchange confidences
in public and do not desire your neighbors to understand,
perhaps it would be well to choose a language which they
do not speak! I speak English, French, German,
Italian and Spanish, and have quite a smattering of
Indian dialects. You might try Chinese. I do not speak
that ! " My husband heard my sudden outburst and was
appalled. He had not heard their conversation. When
later, still somewhat flushed and ruffled, I explained, he
laughed immoderately. I may not have been able to
give this imprudent young couple a lesson in morals, but
I think my words proved a lesson in manners, for, cha-
grined and somewhat aghast, they took their departure
a few moments later.
A Warning Against Cold Beer
After the polo games and the usual sight-seeing in
London, we ran over to Winchester to visit the great
cathedral which we love. All these edifices have been so
often described that repetition is useless. But in the ad-
joining graveyard we came upon a curious inscription
which interested us greatly. It read as follows :
In grateful remembrance
of
THOMAS FLETCHER
a^ed 26
6 All t he Way 'Round
A grenadier who died from drinking cold beer when hot.
Placed here by his loving comrades.
Here sleeps in peace a Hampshire Grenadier,
Who caught his death by drinking cold small beer.
Soldiers be wise from this untimely fall,
And when you're hot drink strong or not at all!
An honest soldier never is forgot,
Whether he die by musket or by pot !
It was a queer thing to inscribe upon a comrade's
grave, hut for over 200 years it has stood there — mute
testimony to the dead man's imprudence, and to the love
of his friends. Winchester is an interesting old town
with quaint houses. One of the latter is known as "The
House that God Begot." It was built in the year 1000
and was given by Queen Emma to her son, Edward the
Confessor.
Visiting the Norman Churches
Back to Havre we went, taking from here to Caen a
wretched little boat on which, for the first time in our
lives, we were seasick. At Caen we visited those two
absolutely perfect churches, built by William the Con-
queror and his wife, Matilda, about the year 1062. He,
Duke of Normandy and King of England, had committed
a very great crime in marrying Matilda who was a near
relative, but they loved each other and had therefore
committed the sin against the church deliberately.
Afterward they sought to buy God's forgiveness by erect-
ing these two exquisite churches. The husband, William
Broodhuis, Grand' Place,
Brussels
Cathedral of Ste. Gudule,
Brussels
Hotel de Ville, Louvain
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 7
the Conqueror, built St. Etienne and the adjoining mon-
astery. His beautiful French wife founded a nunnery
and built La Trinite. St. Etienne is pronounced by
Baedeker the finest specimen of Norman architecture in
the world and a sight of it quite repaid us for all our
trials in getting to Caen. La Trinite is likewise perfect.
It is a gem — a perfect dream of beauty. The Queen's
tomb in the crypt is so arranged that the sun never ceases
to shine upon it, small windows being cut through the
thick stones encircling it. They builded well — those old
kings! To them labor was as naught. What pleasure
have they given to the world !
Germany's Historic Spots
We paid the usual respects to the chateaux, picture-
galleries and museums of France, spending delightful
weeks in so doing. But before leaving home we had ar-
ranged to meet my husband's sister in Germany where,
forty years ago, they were in school. It was a country
full of memories for them. Not only had four or five
years of their youth been spent there, but in this country
their mother had died and been buried, her body having
been brought back later to rest in her own land. On
our way we stopped at Trier, Strasburg, and other
points of interest. It was my first visit to Germany and
I found it wonderfully beautiful throughout. It is always
scrupulously clean, and even in the hotels we found true
All the Way 'Round
the story we had always heard of the exquisite care given
to her linen by the German housewife. We met our sister
according to arrangement, and that same night attended
a ball given by General Allen, then in command of the
forces stationed at Coblenz. Of course we motored a
good deal and while doing so saw all the historic spots
of which I had read and heard ; Bingen on the Rhine, the
haunt of the Lorelei, etc., were just as beautiful as my
dreams of them had been. The magnificent scenery, to
say nothing of the superb f orestation of this country quite
thrilled me. My husband and sister, of course, saw many
changes. Who would not, after forty years of absence?
In Heidelberg and Altenburg, where they had been in
school, we lingered longest while they looked at old
familiar places and asked for old friends.
It is only the personal and individual experiences one
has while traveling, which can be offered as an excuse for
writing about a journey through Europe. So much has
been said and written of every country there that I can
add nothing. Each deserves a volume of its own. But
I have always had a reputation for having unusual ex-
periences, and my fourteen months of travel were filled
with them. The splendor and the beauty of Berlin, the
galleries of Munich and Dresden — who that has seen
can ever forget them?
We spent a night in quaint old Nuremberg, and here
I had one of the experiences already referred to. Being
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 9
Sunday morning I announced my intention of attending
Mass in one of the lovely churches for which Nuremberg
is famous. My sister-in-law, although she is not a Cath-
olic, said she would like to accompany me to listen to and
enjoy the music. Engaged in arranging for our depar-
ture that afternoon, my husband was too busy to go, but
gave us explicit directions as to how we should find the
church. As it was not far distant we decided to walk
and enjoy the cool morning air and the sights of this
charming town. When we arrived at the church the
Mass, apparently, had begun. After the sermon my
sister turned and said to me : " Does there not seem some-
thing strange to you in the service of this church?" I
replied that there was, that I had observed it as soon as
I entered. However, I looked about me again. There
were the priests, acolytes, incense, vestments and holy
water fonts — every evidence, in fact, that I was hearing
Mass. I dismissed the strangeness, attributing it to the
mere fact that we were in a foreign country. When we
were on the train, however, I recalled it and spoke to
my husband about it. He roared with laughter — told
me that I had not heard Mass at all. I had been in a
Lutheran church!
Failed to Meet Cardinal Mercier
I had looked forward to our visit to Belgium, not only
because of the wonderful museums and churches to be
10 All the Way 'Round
visited there, but because I wished to see again and in
his own country that splendid man, Cardinal Mercier,
whom we had had the pleasure of meeting in Chicago.
But I was doomed to disappointment, for he was not at
home while we were there, much to our regret.
We chanced to get into Holland just at the opening
of parliament. We saw the king and queen, in full regalia,
riding in the celebrated golden coach, an equipage truly
regal. In this little country, however, it is not the par-
liament, neither is it the museums, the galleries, nor
churches which stand out most conspicuously in my mem-
ory. It is the perfection of the hotel at which we stayed
in Amsterdam. The poet who sang that
We may live without poetry, music or books,
But civilized man can not live without cooks!
must surely have had in mind the Hotel Doolen. The
sumptuousness of its service, its rooms, fine linen and
perfection in food are things one can never forget.
Before leaving France, I, as a good Catholic, made
my pilgrimage to Lourdes. Irrespective of the devotion
which all Catholics show for it, this spot is certainly a
thing of beauty. Lourdes is superbly situated in the
heart of the Pyrenees, and the view from an old chateau
on one of the mountains is simply magnificent. The
mountains seem so close. They are most imposing and
the gorge very picturesque. The Grotto itself, with its
San Nicholas de la Villa,
Cordova
Burgos Cathedral
Santiago del Arrabal, Toledo
Cordova Cathedral was for-
merly a mosque
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 11
many pilgrims annually, its hundreds of crutches which
have been discarded, has been too often described to need
more than a mere mention of its name. But the sublime
beauty of the place, its glorious churches and all its
sacred history, these combined to make it linger as one
of the high lights of my year of travel.
The Spanish Cathedrals
We spent a month in Italy, which country we never
fail to visit on every European trip, feeling that what it
has to offer in art, age cannot wither nor custom stale.
This time, however, we did not go beyond Florence, for
the reason that we had never been in Spain and wished
to spend at least a month in that country. So we had
to forego southern Italy. Running over from Biarritz,
we entered fair Castile by way of St. Sebastian, the
celebrated watering-place where the king has his sum-
mer home. One of the prettiest harbors I have ever seen
is here, famous for its bathing facilities and much fre-
quented by wealthy Spaniards. From here a few hours'
run through a beautiful country brought us to the famed
city of Burgos, where we had our first view of a Spanish
cathedral. In Spain the cathedrals are certainly unique.
We visited them all — Segovia, Toledo, Seville, Granada,
Cordova and many others ; all so well described by every
guide book, and traveler who has gone before me, that I
refrain from adding my words to theirs. Only one I
12 All the Way 'Round
cannot help referring to — this is the first one we saw,
at Burgos. It is a marvel. The lantern, as the central
tower is called, is large and round and short, and both
outside and inside is the loveliest thing I have ever seen.
The carving is superb, the ceiling giving the effect of
starlight. We spent many hours here, returning to it
twice.
Burgos is said to be both the coldest and the hottest
city on earth. It was only October, but we were frozen
almost stiff at the hotel (which never has any heat), with
all our wraps on. Our blood was congealed. Here, also,
we discovered for the first time in our lives we could
not eat when we pleased! The American traveler is a
spoiled somebody! I admit it openly. In a first-class
hotel in our own country one can, if he wishes to pay
the price, get anything at any old time. Not so in Spain.
We were informed that here the dinner hour, even in
the small-town hotels, was from nine-thirty to twelve
P. M. Until this hour the dining room is never opened.
It grew dark a little after five. Shivering and unhappy,
we would sit in our rooms, my husband with his hat on,
freezing and waiting for the dinner hour. When the
dining room was opened, of course we lost caste, as we
were always the first to be served ! Many a time while here
did I go to bed to keep warm and then, too tired to dress
for a ten o'clock dinner, dined upon crackers and milk
in my own apartment. All dinner invitations in Spain,
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 13
even those at the Embassy, bear the hour of ten-thirty !
Granada and Seville
We reached Seville on what is known as mantilla day,
a day on which all women and girls wear the mantilla.
They made a pretty picture, and it was interesting to
watch them. We remained in Madrid about two weeks —
wonderful old city with its glorious cathedral — then on
to Granada, most wonderful of all, home of the Alhambra.
Only a Washington Irving can adequately reveal the won-
ders and the beauty of this place. It far exceeded any-
thing we had anticipated or expected. One cannot be-
lieve that mere human hands could have carved such
dainty, lacy things from cold, hard marble, cement and
wood. The Court of the Lions is superb, the Myrtle
Court almost prettier, the room of the Two Sisters exqui-
site, and the celebrated Hall of the Ambassadors most
magnificent of all. The honey-combing effect of the ceil-
ing is beyond description. It is a marvel of color ; reds,
greens, blues, fairy shades. One cannot but be enthu-
siastic over the Alhambra, in fact, over all Granada.
In one of the churches here are to be seen the tombs of
the great Ferdinand and Isabella — the carved figures of
the king and queen are simply marvelous, the heads rest-
ing on marble pillows and that of Isabella looking as if
she had just pressed her head into it.
The cathedral at Cordova was formerly an old mosque.
14 All the Way 'Round
Therefore it is unique. It had hundreds of pillars, colos-
sal in size. Some wonderful stones were once in this
mosque, but the Christian in restoring it has not im-
proved it.
The Story of Three Charming " Youngsters "
We had a wretched trip to Cordova. The Spanish
trains are invariably filthy, but the journey was relieved
by an experience. We met three charming youngsters.
A derailed engine delayed us six hours, and while I was
trying in my "perfect" Spanish to gather from the
brakeman when we should start again, a very beautiful
blonde girl of about twenty-five, in rapid-fire Spanish
obtained the information for me and turning toward
me gave it to me in the purest English! For the last
hour I had been speaking German with her and her
brother and sister-in-law who accompanied her. So I
exclaimed, " Why, you speak all languages ! " " Oh, no ! "
she replied. "I am German, as you see. But my mother
is Spanish. Naturally I learned her mother-tongue, and
we were taught French and English at school."
I replied that to have mastered four languages at her
age was certainly a triumph. The youngsters proved
very agreeable, and we spent much of the six hours that
we were forced to wait walking about the town arm-in-
arm. She had asked me to send her some post cards of
our trip around the world, and this necessitated my ask-
House of El Greco, Toledo
Court of the Lions, Granada
Roman aqueduct, Segovia
Europe; France, Germany, and Spain 15
ing her name and address. She replied, "I am the Prin-
cess Pilar, of Baiern (Bavaria). This is my brother,
Prince Adelbert, and his wife."
The latter had told me that her mother was a Span-
iard and that she had left her baby with her family in
Madrid. They were on their way back there. Something
prompted me to ask, "What was your mother's name?"
She answered, " She is the Infanta M — , of Spain."
I then woke up. ''Why, you must be the niece of the
Infanta Eulalia!" I exclaimed. "Yes," she answered.
"Do you know Aunt Eulalia?" Then followed explana-
tions and reminiscences. She also had heard of us from
this same royal aunt, whom we had entertained during
the World's Fair in Chicago. The family with whom the
baby had been left were the king and queen of Spain!
And the Infanta Eulalia, who now lives in Paris, was at
this time in Madrid awaiting the family reunion. The
wife of Prince Adelbert, a charming little creature of
about twenty, was the great-granddaughter of the Em-
peror Franz Josef of Austria.
When we returned to the train the youngsters insisted
on coming into our compartment and crowding two upon
one seat until we left. They seemed to enjoy our society
quite as much as we did their lovely youth and spon-
taneous sincerity. A mutual friend in Paris had written
the Infanta Eulalia that we were to be in Madrid. On
our arrival there we found letters inviting us to tea,
16 All the Way 'Round
where we would meet the king and queen of Spain and
see the family. The youngsters had told us that we
would receive these invitations, and we had told them
that we should be forced to decline, as we should be only
a few hours in Madrid. Therefore, when we received
said invitations in Madrid (where we were obliged to
remain five days in order to get a wagon lit out to Barce-
lona), my democratic husband insisted that I adhere to
the declination, as we had no suitable clothes, and permit
them to believe that we had spent there only the two or
three hours we had intended. On the night of our de-
parture we sent a special message to the palace express-
ing our deep regret that we were unable to accept this
very beautiful courtesy. It is our hope that they of the
royal family did not learn of our extended stay in Madrid.
But our friend in Paris, Miss G — , an intimate friend
of the royal family, did hear of it and was quite caustic
in her criticism, as she had taken great pains to write
them of our coming and ask them to be nice to us ! The
little Princess of Bavaria continues to write me, and this
evidence of her friendship is one of my very pleasantest
memories. Her father is Carlos Ferdinand, Prince of
Bavaria, a most distinguished surgeon.
CHAPTER II
THE GREAT EAST ; THE FRONT DOOR TO INDIA, COLORFUL BOMBAY
THE Great East is fascinating to most people. India
and Ceylon have been slow in their progress in the
past and they will continue to be slow in their progress in
the future. This fact, together with the strangeness of
their customs, their absolute difference from those of the
other parts of the world, is perhaps their greatest en-
chantment. China, although she is now rousing herself, is
also sluggish. But Japan is alert and watchful. This
is evidenced by her career and her progress in Man-
churia. Although she still clings to many of her old
customs, she has already taken her seat among the great
nations of the world.
Years before the birth of Christ men were considering
the uniting of the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. A
Persian king named Neccho came near undertaking it,
but superstitious predictions frightened him and the plan
was abandoned. When Ferdinand De Lesseps opened
it to the world the Suez Canal prospered beyond the
dreams of the most sanguine. India became easy of
access.
Christmas on Shipboard
On Friday, the twenty-third of December, on a per-
fectly glorious day and after a delicious luncheon of sea
17
18 AH the Way 'Round
food at Marseilles, we boarded the Kaisar I Hind, an
English P. & 0. boat. She was a beauty, with every mod-
ern convenience and filled to capacity with charming,
first-class passengers. Under these delightful conditions
we steamed out for our fourteen days' sail to Bombay.
On the morning of the twenty-fourth we were re-
minded that the Birthday of the King was approaching,
and we visualized that everywhere on shore night lights
would be glowing in honor of the Christ Child. We
determined to honor Him on shipboard, also. Prepara-
tions were made by those of different Christian beliefs,
and for these celebrations the first cabin was reserved.
Then followed a most disagreeable episode, one which,
to me, was inexcusable. The Catholics were told that
their priest must celebrate the Midnight Mass, with which
the Catholic services at Christmas-time are ushered in,
in the second cabin! We had persuaded ourselves that
we are living in an era of liberal religious belief, but I
could not help wondering whether the God of all Chris-
tians was flattered at this discrimination! The next
morning all devotees of other faiths held their services
in the first cabin. However, all the Catholics in the first
cabin went to the service in the second, where an episode
contributed by my good Protestant husband, who had
accompanied me to the Midnight Mass, caused some hilar-
ity. The young woman who was leading the choir ap-
proached and asked if I would be a member. Now, for
The Great East; The Front Door to India 19
some reason my singing voice has never been appreciated
by the members of my family! Remembering this, I
turned to Mr. Harrison and said, " Shall I join in and
help them?" Quick as a flash came the answer, "Not
unless you want to break up the meeting! "
'Twixt Scylla and Charybdis
Passing numerous islands, seeing smoking Stromboli
in a fountain of flame after dark, in due time we reached
the Straits ; Reggio, Italy, on one side and on the other
Messina. A charming sight they were, with their bril-
liant lights, but we realized that we were in dangerous
waters when we stopped for over an hour in order to let
two steamers pass. We were in the famous Pass be-
tween Scylla and Charybdis. On the morning of the
twenty-seventh we had a high sea, but as we were ap-
proaching Crete the waters became calmer and the sun
began to shine. In spite of the turbulent, corkscrew
motion and the fact that many of the passengers were
ill, the amusements on deck were many. A beautiful
fancy-dress ball was among the loveliest things I have
ever seen.
On the twenty-eighth we reached Port Said. Here
those who had planned to go to Cairo, Egypt, were forced
to abandon the trip because of the rioting in which,
according to the papers, fifteen hundred had been killed.
A charming young widow from Australia was going,
20 All the Way 'Round
with her father and mother, to visit the grave of her
husband, who had been an army officer stationed in Cairo.
They could not continue and were compelled to go on to
India on our steamer. When first I heard her story I
thought it a sad circumstance and was filled with sym-
pathy. Later, however, when she was pointed out to
me, a young girl in her early twenties, flirting and
dancing, I decided that my sympathy was wasted.
Tagore as a Prophet
Many distinguished people were aboard. Dr. D — ,
a famous surgeon of Chicago, was very popular. An-
other was a very charming woman belonging to the
Blavatsky School of Theosophy in Madras. There was
one most attractive woman, nearing fifty, who was going
over to visit India's celebrated mystic, Dr. Rabindranath
Tagore. The year previous he had spent two weeks in
her house and during that visit he had made her promise
that should she ever be in trouble she would come to
him. With a loving husband, with children and grand-
children, she had laughed at the time, as no premonition
of disaster had ever come to her. Now, however, she
was firm in her belief that he possessed second sight, for
since that time her husband, after thirty-two years of
absolute devotion, decided that he had met his affinity !
This woman was Mrs. Van E— , of Holland. She
belonged to one of the richest and most aristocratic fami-
The Great East; The Front Door to India 21
lies in the country. She was an associate of the queen
and of Holland's most intellectual set. With tears stream-
ing from her eyes, she told me that she loved her hus-
band still, and although she had given him a divorce
she was holding to her promise made to the famous seer
of India.
The Suez Canal proved very interesting. Long rows
of pampas grass fringed the shore and men in white
garments, with shrouded white heads, squatted on plat-
forms before their rush houses and plied their crafts,
some making mats, some otherwise occupied. As we
were carrying the mail, other steamers tied up along the
shore to let us pass along the ninety miles of the Canal.
Swarms of tiny flies and gnats boarded the ship occa-
sionally, but they did not bite. It was very warm and
sunny, and paradoxically enough, the Red Sea was ex-
quisitely blue ! The cool breeze was a delightful surprise,
as we had anticipated intense heat. It was quite thrill-
ing to realize that Mount Sinai, where Moses received
the Ten Commandments, was near at hand and might
have been clearly seen had it not been for the haze which
lay over the water on this particular day.
Our next port was Aden, Arabia, picturesque but very
hot. Here we had to wear our sun topis. It was tree-
less and barren, but the English living there say it is
healthy. It seldom rains. Three great tanks cut out of
the rock (said to have been the work of Moses) furnish
22 All the Way 'Round
the water supply. The bazaar was interesting, but the
heat overpowering, and we were glad to get back to the
steamer.
Bombay and Towers of Silence
On the fourteenth day, January 6, we reached
Bombay. Here we were simply prostrated by the heat.
I, who had never had a headache in my life, was almost
blinded by one. Both of us felt wretched, and concluded
that if this was our introduction to India, we should not
be able to stand it long. Friends meeting us told us
that we must wear colored glasses, as the headaches
were caused by the glare of the sun. "We procured them
and never suffered thereafter during our entire stay in
that country.
Bombay, with its million or more inhabitants, is one
of the handsomest cities we have seen. Buildings are
of sandstone, or olive-tinted rock. On a pretty bay,
overlooking the ocean, the first view impresses one most
favorably. Malabar Hill is where the Governor has his
residence, and at the extreme other end of this hill is
the burying ground of the Parsees, the celebrated Towers
of Silence. The grounds surrounding these Towers are
exceedingly beautiful, the Towers themselves most im-
pressive, one of them having been in use continuously
for three hundred years. Within it are three compart-
ments, one for men, one for women, and one for children.
When a body is brought to the Tower two men employed
Stone elephants, Victoria Gardens, Bombay
Entrance to the Victoria Gardens, Bombay
W
The Great East; The Front Door to India 23
for the purpose (none others ever enter there) bear it
through a small opening. All ornaments, all garments,
even, are removed. "For," says Zoroaster, "naked you
came into the world. Naked shall you go out ! " Having
placed the body inside the Tower, the bearers retire.
Within one hour eveiy vestige of flesh is removed from
it by vultures ! The bones slip down into a vat of acid
which destroys them also. What a terrible way to dis-
pose of one's beloved dead !
Rites that Appall
It was eight o'clock in the morning when we went to
visit this place. Already many of these mournful birds
were perched upon the Tower awaiting the daily funerals
which usually take place at about ten. We were told by
the attendant that these birds live in the jungle, many
miles away. But every morning, for from fifteen min-
utes to half an hour before the bodies begin to arrive,
they line the Tower awaiting their grewsome feast. Hor-
rible as the idea is, it is the faith of the Parsee. We
learned, however, that the modern Parsee millionaire,
with his twentieth-century education, is beginning to dis-
like this method of disposing not only of his family but
of himself, and that he oftentimes tries to evade it. We
heard of one wealthy man who, whenever he was taken
sick, immediately boarded a steamer and left his native
land, because in foreign parts he was not bound by this
24 All the Way 'Round
custom. Many times his physicians would forbid his
going, but he heeded them not. Finally he died in Eng-
land, thus escaping the fate of his ancestors. An inter-
esting thing is the " Everlasting Fire " of Zoroaster, kept
burning in perpetuity in a small temple near the Towers
of Silence.
The Hanging Gardens of Bombay, which are built
over the water supply and which are so celebrated, were
constructed because of these horrible vultures. The
Gardens deserve all the fame they enjoy. Limited space
alone prevents dwelling upon their magnificence. They
are the most beautiful things imaginable. Years ago
when the uncovered water supply was tested, after a long-
siege of cholera, the authorities found that the vultures,
disgorging after their feast, had dropped flesh and bones,
fingers and toes, into the water, polluting in this most
revolting fashion the city's drinking supply. To guard
the water and for the safety of the public health, the
Gardens were built as a protection. The vultures, how-
ever, still continue to make trouble. Not long ago a mil-
lionaire decided to hold a picnic in the spacious grounds
of his home. In the open gardens the guests gathered
about the festal board. An overfed vulture alighted on
one of the tables and vomited. The odor was terrific
and spread for miles around. The guests fled !
The Parsees are generous and everything in Bombay
is dominated by the Parsee element. Every charitable
The Great East; The Front Door to India 2{
institution, every public statue, seemingly, is maintained
or has been presented by them. They are enormously
wealthy, richest of all the Indians. In the financial and
social world they shine resplendent. We met many.
They are superbly educated, very accomplished. Their
homes are palaces. The smartest motors are driven by
them. In society in Bombay the Parsee name is an open
sesame. The women are pretty, charming, cultivated,
never in purdah, 1 as the other women are. One feels that
although a strange people they are wonderfully agree-
able. They mix rather freely with the English, but the
latter never mingle intimately with the Indian races. It
is the unwritten law, and they hold themselves aloof.
The natives have their own clubs, and although at hotels
and public places they mingle ostensibly, the races never
become intimate. The Indians never belong to the Eng-
lish clubs. Occasionally they visit them, but it is always
a formal visit.
While in Bombay we were constantly learning sin-
gular things. One of these was that more sunstrokes
occur on cloudy days than on clear ones. When first we
heard this, the statement seemed so remarkable that we
could scarcely credit it. Yet it is true. The explanation
is that in India the clouds, although superbly beautiful,
are dazzlingly white. They darken the skies very little.
Sunstroke comes through the eyes, and, because of the
iA veil used in India to screen women from observation.
26 All the Way 'Round
intense brilliancy of the light, glasses must be worn, we
were warned, always on cloudy days, even if one were
rash enough to lay them aside on clear ones. Another
singular thing which we learned was that the slanting
rays of the sun were much worse than the direct ones.
From nine to eleven and from three to five are the most
dangerous hours of the day so far as the heat is con-
cerned. Whether these statements are true or not, we
decided to take no risks. We wore the sun topis all day,
until five o'clock, as well as the slightly smoked glasses,
and after the first day we were never again bothered by
headache while we were in the tropics.
A great feature during the season in Bombay is the
races. Everybody attends them, from "the Colonel's
Lady" to "Judy O'Grady," as Kipling puts it. The na-
tives, however, always remain outside the gates. The
club and grounds are beautiful, and the day we attended
it was estimated that the crowd aggregated thirty thou-
sand. We watched for an hour, then went to the bazaar,
for, after all, the races were not what we had gone to
India to see. But — that colorful bazaar! The streets,
filthy and odorous, were scarcely visible, so densely were
they packed with shrouded figures and animals; ele-
phants, camels, donkeys, to say nothing of shrieking
drivers of small, one-horse conveyances such as our own,
called tonga. Little shops, with brassware, jewelry, and
brilliant clothes, lined the way. This visit to the bazaar
A Dilwarra Temple
A Jain shrine in a Dilwarra Temple
An interior view, Dilwarra Temple Pillars of a Dihvarra Temple
Huge elephants of alabaster in a Dilwarra Temple
The Great East; The Front Door to India 27
in Bombay (which city, by the way, is known as the Front
Door of India, as Calcutta is known as the Back Door)
was our first glimpse of the real India. The clamor, the
color, the teeming population, that fascinating something
which broods over the Great East — who that has seen
can ever forget ?
Sad Lot of Women and Babies
But the indelible impression which every observant
woman carries away with her from any foreign country
is the lot of the WOMAN of that country ! This is par-
ticularly true of India. One morning, a few weeks later,
I was horrified to read in a Bombay paper the following
excerpt, which I quote verbatim:
INFANT MORTALITY IN BOMBAY
The high death rate among children in the city was the sub-
ject of a discussion at today's municipal council. According to
figures supplied by Mr. Byramji, who initiated the discussion,
the death rate of babies of less than a year old in Bombay is no
less than eight hundred and eight per thousand ! A report from
the Commissioner for remedying the evil was called for.
This terrible statement haunted me until I was sick-
ened and depressed. Later, however, I accepted it with-
out surprise. Daily I saw fatigue, almost insufferable,
on the part of the native woman who, though delicate in
form, often carried on her head huge baskets of stone
to be used in building ! The poor women of India, carry-
ing these burdens beneath the blazing sun, can scarcely
28 All the Way 'Round
be expected to bear strong children. Alas, the feeling
of depression never left me during all the time I was in
India. Later I shall have much to say of the unfortunate
condition of my sex in this country. From the princess
in the maharajah's zenana, 1 laden with the rarest of jew-
els, to the poorest of women on the streets with her silver
anklets and rings on every toe and finger, woman in
India is but the chattel and the slave of man. He may
have as many legal wives and all the concubines he is
able to support. He can divorce his wife by merely
speaking the words " I divorce you ! " and even in these,
our modern times, he can do away with her with very
little trouble and less criticism. What does life hold for
woman here 1
iThe part of a dwelling in which the women are secluded.
CHAPTER III
THE LAND OF TEMPLES AND TEA ; THE FROZEN PEARL OF AGRA
WE HAD thought Bombay colorful. In fact, all
India is so. A night's ride by train from this large
city on the Arabian Sea brought us to the spot where
we had arranged to take a motor to Mount Abu, one of
the hill stations. This is a summer resort and arsenal.
Here are situated the famous Dilwarra Temples, four in
number. Never have I conceived of anything more ex-
quisite than these. Even the approach to them is not to
be ignored. Wonderful winding roads, vistas of valleys
and mountains here and there, led us to the interesting
villages of monkeys in the jungle. To the tenderfoot this
is an amazing sight. Unlike the unkempt animals which
we see in captivity, these are the prettiest monkeys, with
soft gray fur, light in color, strikingly black nose, mouth
and ears, and bright eyes; they range in size from the
baby of scarcely a hand's span to the full-grown animal
of fully four feet. They scampered about on the rocks,
munching leaves and nuts, and they gazed at us abso-
lutely unafraid.
Miracles in Carving
At Mount Abu we spent two days, studying these won-
derful temples which can never be adequately described
even were one to spend days in the attempt. They are
Jain temples, and I shall speak of the principal one
29
30 All the Way 'Round
only, which contains fifty-two shrines. Each shrine is
a complete little temple in itself, built of pure white mar-
ble and containing statues of gods and goddesses. The
center shrine is the Holy of Holies. No stranger is per-
mitted to enter. One may stand before the door, how-
ever, while an attendant holds a light by means of which
one may see the whole interior. The double row of aisles
before the shrines are supported by white marble pillars.
These pillars are certainly amazing in that thousands
upon thousands of figures (some of them as small as the
thumb nail) of people, animals, birds, and flowers are
carved upon them, the carving being perfect to the small-
est detail. The arches overhead are wonderfully done, so
thin that the lace on a woman's gown seems scarcely
finer. When one contemplates the rude instruments em-
ployed by those who long ago carved these figures, they
seem little short of miraculous. A side room of this same
temple contains twelve figures of huge elephants (life
size) of alabaster. These also are perfect in detail ; servi-
tors, we were told, of the gods and goddesses bestride
two of them.
There was no quarry within hundreds of miles of
Mount Abu. What inconceivable labor must have been
required to carry this marble such a distance and to such
heights ! The grandeur and perfection of the work, and
the richness of it are all the more overwhelming when one
recalls these facts.
A busy corner, Jaipur
Gate to Jaipur, the "Pink City'
Minaret piercing the sky, Jaipur
The Frozen Pearl of Agra 31
A Princess at Prayer
While we were in this temple a woman came to make
her offerings to the gods. She was heavily veiled, only
her bright eyes showing; very richly dressed in silks,
heavily laden with magnificent jewels. From wrist to
elbow was a solid mass of gold bracelets studded with
precious gems. She wore many heavy gold anklets. Her
feet were bare, every toe covered with rings. Her short,
native dress enabled us to see all this distinctly. Kow-
towing, bowing, praying in chant, she entered the Holy
of Holies. Finishing her prayers there and continuing
her bowing and chanting she made her offerings before
each of the fifty-two gods in the temple, her hand-maidens
going before, carrying the gifts she wished to place
before each. We seemed to arouse her interest quite as
much as she excited ours, and despite her apparent devo-
tion we were conscious that she was trying to show all of
her face that she dared, especially to the members of the
masculine persuasion who accompanied me ! Young and
graceful she undoubtedly was. And she was well aware
of it! For presently she deliberately turned her back
upon her hand-maidens and lowered her veil completely.
Just for an instant we had a view of a very beautiful
woman and later we learned that she was a member of a
princely house.
The contrast between the heat of Bombay and the
cold of Mount Abu was marked, but our native servant
32 All the Way 'Round
made us comfortable by means of small stoves. By the
way, this native servant, our bearer, in his picturesque
dress looked like a prince. He was a Hindu, and with his
white, shrouded head, his air of graceful hauteur, often
made me feel that an ordinary command was out of place.
Fortunately for us his knowledge of his own duties was
such that we rarely felt it necessary to give an order.
He was forty-five years old, married, and had nine chil-
dren. We paid him fifteen dollars gold a month, out of
which he supported them and fed himself. He consid-
ered himself well paid, but when we left, we felt so badly
over the smallness of his remuneration as compared with
the service rendered us that we thoroughly enjoyed giv-
ing him something to remember us by.
Jaipur, the "Pink City"
Our next journey was to Jaipur, a railroad ride
through the jungle. We made it most comfortably in a
compartment intended for four but occupied by us alone.
It had fine bath tubs and other conveniences for a night's
journey. As we rode along we saw many wild antelopes
and hyenas. The birds of gorgeous plumage made us
realize that we were in India. Jaipur is a beautiful city,
more Indian in character than any we afterward visited.
It is known as the "Pink City" because of the unusual
color of the houses and other edifices. It is so strictly
Indian that the memory of it still clings strongly. Its
The Frozen Pearl of Agra 33
fascination still remains. In the city of Jaipur there
were no whites except ourselves and two men who served
the government and lived there. As there was great
unrest in India, and much talk, I whispered to my hus-
band that should there be an uprising while we were
there we should at least be spared a struggle for our
lives. Awful as that thought was, there was a certain
calmness in it. In such a contingency the Inevitable
would be ours. But we three (Dr. D— , of Chicago, was
with us) were so perfectly enchanted with our adorable
hotel, so native and so comfortable, managed by Ibraham,
so interested in the city and its unusual sights that we
never thought of fear and spent several days of the deep-
est enjoyment. The Sahibs and the Mem Sahib will
never forget those memorable days spent in Jaipur. It
was here that we were shown the man-eating tigers. How
terrible and yet how magnificent they were, so different
from the caged creatures we see in our zoos and menag-
eries. These we saw had been captured but a few
weeks and were still the wild creatures of the jungle.
Each of them had killed at least one man. What terrify-
ing roars they uttered! And how violently they shook
the bars as they tried to get at us ! I knew that they
were well caged, of course. But I shivered at the sight
of them.
The streets are broad, the bazaar a blaze of color,
and there is ever that restless motion which character-
34 All the Way 'Round
izes all the peoples of the East. The Palace lias decora-
tions of unusual style in black and white. The beautiful
gardens surrounding it gave evidence of the wealth of
the sick maharajah who lay within it. A physician, we
were told, w r as paid a thousand dollars a day to cure
him, but as he has been paralyzed for four years I
fancy that he has little chance for recovery. His four
legal wives, his eight hundred concubines and his in-
numerable children will, at his death, be left on the hands
of the government.
Visit to the Deserted Cities
It was here that I had my first elephant ride on the
hugest beast I have ever seen. In this manner we
traveled to the deserted cities of Amber. On a hill com-
manding a wonderful view of the surrounding country
w T ere located these ancient places and their marvelous
carvings were a delight. The women's zenana, with its
lattice-work of marble, was especially exquisite, but one
is so overwhelmed by the amazing richness of all the
temples of India that to spend time describing them is
futile — only a repetition of what thousands of others
before me have tried (and failed) to do. To view one
single temple door with all its matchless carving is well
worth a trip to India.
In this deserted city I first came in touch with the
fakir. I had heard much of fakirs and their marvelous
A temple at deserted city of Detail of an old temple at
Amber Amber
Transportation to Amber
The Frozen Pearl of Agra 35
performances, and although afterward I saw many in-
teresting demonstrations of their work, I think I never
witnessed any to equal the one we saw here. He played
with poisonous cobras, charming them with music! He
commanded water to flow and to stop flowing while he
w T as ten feet away from it! He placed a smoking rag
in his mouth and shot out fire in sheets of flame nearly
three feet long! These things he did five or six times
in succession.
Sublime Beauty of the Taj
One of the high-lights in the experience of every
traveler to the Orient is, of course, the day when first
he or she looks upon the Taj Mahal. The beauty of the
Taj by moonlight! Words are too feeble; rhapsodies,
even, would be inadequate were one to attempt a de-
scription of the sublime beauty of this white marble
dream. We have seen it beneath the glitter of the Indian
sun. We have seen it when the moonlight lay upon it
soft as a caress. It is difficult to say which view was
the lovelier. Into this tomb is written the greatest love
story of the world, that of Shah Jahan and his adored
and beautiful wife, Montaz y Mahal. It stands, like a
frozen pearl, on the banks of the Jumna river, in the
midst of a lovely garden. It is guarded by four min-
aretted towers, and it is the one work of art in the whole
world which has never yet been criticized. Ever since
36 All the Way 'Round
the Taj was huilt the stream of visitors has been con-
stant. There has been but one exception. Some two or
three years ago when the epidemic of influenza was at
its height, reaching out its deadly fingers till they
touched the uttermost parts of the earth, it was found
impossible in Agra to provide for the burial of the dead.
The bodies were thrown into the Jumna river and just
back of this tomb of exquisite beauty they were piled
high, awaiting burial. The odor was not only intense
but deadly and the Taj had to be closed temporarily to
visitors, the only time in its history. In Agra we saw
also the block of marble where formerly stood the two
jeweled peacocks, their spreading tails heavily inlaid
with valuable and precious stones. Through all India
we had observed that at each station there were two
drinking fountains — one for the Mohammedans and
one for the Hindus. So strong is the system of caste
that it could not be otherwise.
White Women in Peril
On our last afternoon in Agra we motored to Fut-
tipur-Sikri, the city builded by Akbar but deserted soon
because of malaria, fogs, and lack of water. The tomb
of Akbar is superb. It is at Secundra, two miles from
Agra. Our special guide (not our servant) refused to
leave me here alone while my husband climbed to the
top, and when urged by me to tell the reason finally
The Frozen Pearl of Agra 37
admitted that there had been many cases of the dis-
appearance of white women left for a few moments
alone with the priests stationed here, and that no amount
of investigation had been sufficient to locate them. This,
by the way, is one of the horrors of India. As a further
illustration of it the following story has been related
to me. A party of tourists (English and American) were
given permission to visit the interior of one of the
temples. It contained small enclosures, covered by hang-
ings, similar to the confessionals in the Catholic churches.
The attention of an American gentleman was attracted
by something in the expression on the face of the man
who had given them permission to visit the inside of
the place. A swift glance passed between him and the
man who was to guide them through, and he did not like
that glance ! In the party was a beautiful young English-
woman. Looking first at her and then at the guide the
man at the door said sternly, " No nonsense ! " thus giving
the impression not only of watchfulness over the guides
but of safeguarding the travelers. Something in that
glance caused the quick-witted American to become in-
stantly alert. It had the appearance of a tacit under-
standing, and scenting danger he stationed himself be-
side the young woman, walking close by her side. A few
moments later he realized that his intuition had not
played him false, for as they passed one of the curtained
stalls a strong hand reached from behind the hanging
38 All the Way 'Round
and attempted to draw the young lady inside. Quick as
a flash the American threw himself upon the priest con-
cealed within. In a moment there was pandemonium.
The fight which followed was vigorous but brief, and
while the authorities appeared to be intensely wrought
up over the episode, it was altogether too apparent that
this was not the first time it had occurred! Visitors to
the temples of the East should never visit them alone,
and when they do so in groups the members of the party
should be known to be responsible and trustworthy.
Among the priesthood of the Far East moral responsi-
bility is an unknown quantity. This story can be verified
if necessary.
At the Pearl Mosque
We spent a part of each of our ten days at Agra
at the Taj, and on our last evening went to see the beau-
tiful Pearl Mosque where Shah Jahan, imprisoned by
his son, spent his last lonely years, attended and cared
for by his devoted daughter, Jahanara Begam. Volun-
tarily she shared his exile, for she was the daughter of
his love, Montaz y Mahal, whose tomb he was ever
watching in the distance. Montaz was the very highest
type of Indian womanhood, and her daughter was quite
equal to her in respect to love and devotion. Jahanara
loved her mother's resting-place, too, but she expressed
a desire that when she died nothing but the green grass
should cover her. Her wish was respected. She sleeps
The Frozen Pearl of Agra 39
at Delhi, under the softest of green mounds. Opening
before the mound, however, are two exquisitely-carved
gates, her monument.
Perhaps, after all, the unhappy status of woman in
India is not to be wondered at. In certain sections they
still hold to the custom of sacrificing the goats instead
of human beings, as formerly, and to other religious
rites and ceremonies long since abandoned by more en-
lightened people. Saddest of all is the fact that in dis-
tricts where the missionaries have not yet penetrated,
women, at certain seasons of the year, still offer them-
selves to licentious priests as penitential sacrifices. So
common is this practice that a missionary once told
me that at times she could not bear to glance out of her
window! For when the fanatical penitents are not suffi-
cient in number, emissaries of the priests do not hesitate
to go abroad in the city and lure or force others to the
temples. The British government has made strenuous
efforts to put a stop to this diabolical practice but as
yet these efforts have been without visible effect.
A Royal Romance — and Tragedy
A case in India which arouses the sympathies of all
who learn of it, however, is that of the beautiful
daughter-in-law of the Maharajah of Kapurthala. Him-
self an educated man, possessing many wives and a thou-
sand concubines, he determined to try an experiment
40 All the Way 'Round
with his son, the heir to his throne. He sent the boy to
England to receive an European education, to absorb
European ideas and customs. With the exceptions of
a few vacations, his youth, from ten to twenty, was spent
in England where he became a perfect linguist, a thor-
oughly trained young man. During these years of his
education, his future maharanee — the girl chosen to be
his wife — was being brought up in a similar manner.
She was a brilliant creature — young and lovely — and
the two young people were thrown together at certain
intervals to become acquainted. Soon they were devoted
lovers and friends. The maharajah withstood every
request to marry them at the early age usual in India,
but when she was nineteen and he twenty-two the mar-
riage took place. The maharajah himself was as much
infatuated, seemingly, with his new daughter-in-law as
was his son. He permitted her every privilege in the
palace. She was never compelled to remain in the zenana
in purdah. She was as free as any American or European
girl. She received and entertained his many guests and
proved a delightful companion both to her husband and
his father. During the ten years which followed her
marriage she became the mother of three lovely little
girls, perfect replicas of herself and the idols of the
whole palace. Follows the tragedy. The law of the land
demands a male child, an heir. She has none. And
although her father-in-law is as devoted as ever he has
The Frozen Pearl of Agra 41
notified his son that he must take a second wife. With
his modern education and ideas the thought is as ab-
horrent to him as it is to his wife. While we were in
India the young wife's influence was still sufficiently
powerful to hold off the evil day. But, for how long?
We who had the pleasure of visiting the palace could
readily detect beneath the smooth surface of life the
deep waters. In the midst of gaiety seemingly spon-
taneous, in the midst of love, joy, and pleasure, one
felt always the presence of a lurking skeleton in the
closet. These two young people, so devotedly attached
to each other — are they to be sacrificed to the laws of
India and the necessities of state! If so — why the need
of modern education? And just how great is the influ-
ence of modern thought upon an ancient people?
CHAPTER IV
THE PROBLEM OF ENGLAND IN INDIA
INDIA, the keystone of England's far-flung dominions,
is on the verge of revolt. The land which holds so
much of romance and of mystery is facing its most
serious crisis. That India is seeking freedom from the
yoke of Britain there is no question in the minds of
the traveler of recent years. The depression which seized
us on our entrance to the land two months ago is still
with us. Will it ever leave us ? I wonder. It is a feeling
caused and ever intensified by the hopeless attitude of
the people. Two hundred and twenty-five millions, ruled
by forty thousand English, plus eighty thousand mili-
tary! These figures are given out by an army officer
and are therefore likely to be correct.
It is the fact that one can never get out of his caste
which is the prime factor in the hopelessness of the
situation, but the appalling thing to the liberty-loving,
fair-minded American is that England has done and is
doing nothing to help them out of the Slough of De-
spond. She claims that she will not interfere with India's
religion! What a poor excuse!
England's Opportunity
Her reasons, I think, are far graver and stronger than
this. By their very ignorance, of course, she holds them
42
The Problem of England in India 43
in subjection, and the caste faith is her strongest foot-
hold. I know full well that India could not do without
England. God forbid that she should ever lose England's
support! England is India's safeguard — her only one.
Left to herself she would be a thousand times worse off
than she is. But my question is — having done so much
for India and having done it so well, why cannot Eng-
land do more? Why not rise to sublime heights and
even at a sacrifice tell these groveling millions some
plain, every-day facts which, even though it took years,
must eventually show them the folly of their ways?
This question I should like to have answered.
England is now educating some of the natives as
physicians. To what purpose? When they return home
they are of little service to the community. They can
practice only among their own caste! Besides, we com-
puted the number of these doctors. It provides one
physician for eighty thousand people! What folly! The
number should be multiplied many, many times, and
then there would be altogether too few ! No wonder that
when, as already stated, it became known that out of
every thousand native babies more than eight hundred
died annually, Bombay decided to sit up and take notice !
Sing Praises of Ghandl
The Ghandi movement has certainly aroused them
a bit to their responsibilities in India. He is the out-
44 All the Way 'Round
come of England's inhuman treatment of the people.
He has brought about a great unrest in India. Wherever
we went we saw, felt, and heard it. Little children
scarcely able as yet to talk, had learned to sing " Mahat
ma ji Ghandi q'jai! " which means " We wish victory for
Ghandi!" These words are the logical result of long
years of oppression and suppression. Ever since the
English have been in possession of India she has treated
the natives like dogs, a few rajahs and maharajahs ex-
cepted. But even this higher class is never permitted
to belong to a white man's club. Eeceived by the king
and queen of England — for political reasons — these
native potentates are denied admission to their social
life.
Until England learns to treat these people fairly
she will never own them. The rabble — the rank and
file, as it were — have no rights at all. I have seen the
British strike and beat these poor unfortunates for the
slightest mistake. They kick and curse them, and the
poor devils crawl away without the least show of resent-
ment. Yet I am told they would cut the Englishman's
throat in a second if they only dared, and it is apparent
that this is so. Until the English change their methods
(and will this ever be?) the Indians will always be an
unhappy people. A bit of kindness could not hurt, and
a stratum of rich gratitude might be uncovered under
the sweat of these unfortunates. Often I had occasion
An interior view. Pearl Mosque
Agra
Jasmine Tower, Agra
Pearl Mosque, Agra
W
The Problem of England in India 45
to feel that the haughty Englishman went out of his
way to be nasty and that he really enjoys the servility
and obsequiousness which the Indian invariably offers. A
thing like this is utterly detestable to the American. We
like respect. We command it. But we hate that cringing
obsequiousness that one sees in India.
Instances of Arrogance
I recall one act in particular which impressed me
most unfavorably. Coming from Ceylon, a native, dis-
tinctly a man of education and culture, came on board
our ship. We ourselves had not spoken to him, but his
manner, address, and natural ease had attracted our
observation. We were told by an Armenian, a young man
who also had been educated in France, that this native
was a man of some consequence in his own country. He
was a man of means, it seems, but had been so subjected
to insult whenever he approached an Englishman that
although he had paid for a first-class passage he never
went near a first-class passenger.
This arrogance evinced toward one who by every
right is an equal is a thousand times intensified toward
an underling. On this same boat came a native to show
his wares. A line was marked on the deck beyond which
he must not go. The poor fellow, seeing a cabin door
open just across the line, poked his head in and said
"Won't you buy?" In a flash the Englishman was on
46. All the Way 'Round
his feet and with a rolled newspaper — the nearest thing
at hand — struck the man a cruel blow across the face.
He reeled, but he never spoke a word. The swift motion
of his hands to his face alone revealed his hurt. He
picked up his pack and slunk off, like the pariah which
the Englishman thought him. Such sights as this we
saw constantly and they did not tend to decrease our
disgust for the nation which permits her representatives,
whether official or unofficial, to inflict them.
Now and then, however, one gets a glimpse of the
other side. One meets very surly looks among those
who dare show their real feelings. We, of course, were
classed as Europeans wherever we went. As a general
thing they put us down as citizens of the nation which
they hate — not without cause. We instructed our guide
to declare our nationality whenever and wherever he
could. Proud as I have always been of my Americanism
and my country I think I was prouder of them in India
than ever before.
Visit of the Prince of Wales
Of course, the unrest was tremendously accentuated
by the visit of the Prince of Wales. Every precaution
possible was taken to protect this young scion of royalty.
To be fair, he seems to be a fine, splendid example of
wholesome life and youth. Love for outdoor sports is
characteristic of his race and in this he shares heartily.
The Problem of England in India 47
But — lie has seen the unrest! He knows it thoroughly.
One has but to look at him to be conscious of this fact.
At Agra, for instance, and at Delhi, too, at the great gar-
den party during the Durbar, he was very nervous. Try
as he might he could not conceal it.
The outbreaks in Madras and Bombay were awful.
Everywhere he went he feared similar exhibitions, and
all the magnificence of his surroundings could not con-
ceal from him the undercurrent of anger against his
country which pervaded India.
The sight of the rajahs and maharajahs in gorgeous
silks and all bejeweled would fill volumes. Many of the
women were in purdah, of course, and could not appear.
But many, freed from this restraint, did. Diamonds,
emeralds, sapphires and other precious stones flashed
their fires everywhere, all equally brilliant and beautiful.
The turban of one fat old fellow was a perfect mass of
diamonds. It seemed to be solidly encrusted with genu-
ine stones. Another had one of diamonds and emeralds,
huge pendants of the latter suspended from it. One
woman had wrapped about her body a scarf heavily
embroidered with jewels and she carried a large peacock
fan brilliant with precious stones. All these "nobles"
had gathered to greet the Prince.
That the young royal guest had killed his tigers and
his elephants has been time and again recounted — just
exactly as the English desired. But the Prince was
48 All the Way 'Round
reading between the lines, and reading intelligently. He
had seen. He knew. What has been his confidential re-
port since his return to the bosom of the royal family
of England? That he has told some interesting stories
I feel sure. But these the newspapers have never
printed.
Difficult to Change Tactics
The Ghandi movement has been of benefit to Eng-
land in that it has opened her eyes to her intolerable
and brutal treatment of the natives. So long has this
continued that now (since the Ghandi movement) that
the order "Treat the natives with more consideration"
has gone forth, her representatives in India will find it
hard to obey. Not easily can they mend their ways or
change their methods. To say " please " or " thank you "
now is simply impossible. They who live there say it
would not only ruin the coolie but create insubordina-
tion. And after all these years of ill-treatment perhaps
it would.
The English have a difficult problem to settle in
India, but the time when it must be settled is rapidly
drawing near. The native priests are all with Ghandi
in sympathy and they are pretty outspoken in their
views. In the India of our memory and our dreams we
are trying to forget this terrible spirit of discontent,
to carry in our hearts instead the remembrance of a
wonderful land of tropical vegetation and wondrous
Birbol's Palace, Futtipur-Sikri
Miriam's Palace, Futtipur-
Sikri
Diwan-i-Khas, Futtipur-
Sikri
Elephant gate, Futtipur-Sikri
Sheik's Tomb, Futtipur-Sikri
A general view of Futtipur-Sikri
The Problem of England in India 49
Hindu temples. At times we almost succeed. In southern
India, where we found the cocoanut and the toddy palms
(real toddy is made from this tree) which grow about
Madras and Madura, where the superb gopuras (Hindu
temples are called gopuras, Mohammedan temples are
mosques) are unrivaled, we felt that we were in the
real India, the India of our imagination and our dreams.
CHAPTER V
THE GANGES; GHANDI, THE GREAT REFORMER
IN ONE of our various motor rides we passed through
many villages in which the people, living with and
like animals, were much more like the latter than like
human beings. In one of these we came one day upon an
old man sitting upon a stone. He was naked, and was
eating his meager lunch. His picturesque gray beard
made my husband wish to photograph him. We were
amazed at the result. The poor old man began trembling
and crying, pleading pitifully in his, to us, strange
language. It was only with the greatest difficulty that
our guide at last made him understand that we merely
wished his picture. He thought we meant to beat him!
This episode occurred just a few miles out of Agra and
is typical. Cruelty has made them afraid. The amazing
ignorance of this huge India! How long would any
other people put up with what they endure?
The Barrier of Caste
There is no question but that England's problem in
India is colossal. The fathomless, bottomless question of
caste and the natural opposition to the establishment of
anything new — in the face of these, will she ever be
able to accomplish anything? As has been said, there
50
The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 51
are graduated each year in India thousands of young
physicians, fully equipped for the intelligent practice of
medicine. Of what real use are they? Each can practice
upon none but the members of his own caste. The hos-
pitals and nurses are competent, but just as helpless in
the face of this enormous stumbling-block. True, they
are enthusiastic. They are even optimistic. But the
visitor from other lands sees little to warrant optimism.
A beggar may be a member of a high caste. But he would
be forever ruined were he to touch something which
a man of such high standing as the king of England,
even, had used!
As we went to Delhi we came upon a funeral. Four
men bore the body, which was swathed in bandages, like
a mummy. They carried it uncoffined, high above their
heads, to the jungle where it was to be left to be devoured
by wild animals. This is the burial custom of the Mo-
hammedans in this section of the country. While in
Delhi we rode a great deal in a tonga, in which one sits
with one's back to the driver and is thus enabled to
enjoy the sights. And speaking of sights — we were
much amused to see many men with their beards dyed
red, such decoration being regarded as a mark of great
beauty among the Indians.
A repetition of the beautiful temples was to be seen,
of course, in Delhi. The Jami Masjid and the Pearl
Mosque fascinated us. In one of the mosques we were
52 All the Way 'Round
shown the coffin where Dargah, an emperor who died
six hundred years ago, still lies in state, buried under
fresh roses which are brought daily by devotees. The
delicate and delicious perfume from these flowers gives
evidence of the place he holds in their memory.
Benares, the Holy City
Reminiscences of my journey through India would,
if fully recorded, fill volumes. They can be touched upon
but briefly here. Both interesting and horrible was
Benares, although we found interest in visiting its brass
works, its monkey temples, and its sacred cows. I would
hasten on to its Mecca, the Ganges.
Once in life, at least, every Hindu hopes to come here
and wash in these filthy waters. Should he die in Benares
— he goes straight to heaven! If he dies across the river
he becomes a donkey, etc. Just why this is so is a
question which the traveler finds it impossible to answer.
For Benares is incredibly, unspeakably, indescribably
dirty. Sewers belch filth constantly into the Ganges.
Dead cats and dogs float everywhere. Bodies are burned
and the charred remains pitched into the river. Thou-
sands of pilgrims wash in the Ganges daily, yet thousands
drink the water from it constantly. From the palatial
residences surrounding it the multimillionaires send their
servants to bring this water with which to make their
afternoon tea!
Benares, the Holy City A corpse being immersed in the
Ganges before burning
A funeral pyre, burning ghat, Benares
The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 53
We spent many hours on the river before the ghats 1
watching the fanatical but interesting life depicted there.
On the elevation alongside the river were platforms on
which sat the priests, receiving the offerings of the
pilgrims. One offering every pilgrim has to make. He
must buy a cow and present it to the priest! For said
cow the wealthy will pay any price. The poor pay but
a few pennies. Now, remembering the numerous pilgrims
who come daily, one will readily realize the difficulty of
supplying the demand for cows for this purpose! For
the convenience of the pilgrims a cow is kept close at
hand. Festooned with bright garlands it is ever ready
to be bought and rebought. It changes hands many times
daily! On the day we were here a crazed priest created
much excitement by running madly up and down the
shore. But here a crazy person is regarded as sacred.
No one touches him, and usually he dies of exhaustion.
Pilgrims Give Till it Hurts
We heard it stated that there were more than two
hundred thousand Hindu gods represented at Benares.
The number may not be accurate, but certainly they are
there by the thousands. The insinuating priests who line
the river banks to catch the unwary pilgrim with a well-
lined purse know their business well. Rich and poor,
high caste and low, all come to the sacred city. By
*A landing place with descending stairs.
54 All the Way 'Round
elephant, by camel caravan and by rail they cross India
to the waters of the Holy Eiver. Is there elsewhere in
the world so wonderful a line of devotees? Or such a
band of thieves awaiting them? Every pilgrim gives all
that his purse affords, and on these gifts the greedy
priests fatten. The rich give colossal sums, and even the
poor give generously. Seeing the filth and squalor which
constantly surround the latter, one wonders where they
find the means to do so. But they do. And the amount is
ofttimes surprising.
The Hindu custom of burning the dead, repulsive
as it is, is far less objectionable, in my estimation than
is that of the Parsee who permits his to be devoured
by the vultures. No one ever really sees the Parsee burial,
but the very idea is loathsome. But we did see the de-
struction of the bodies by fire, and the sight was sicken-
ing. A clatter of cymbals announces that a funeral
procession is approaching. The corpse, fastened upon a
simple bier made of bamboo sticks, is carried on the
shoulders of four male relatives. No women ever come
to these funerals. If it is that of a man, the body is
swathed in white. If a woman, in red. The body is
immersed in water, then left to be rinsed in the holy(?)
disgustingly-filthy river while the relatives stand on the
bank and bargain for firewood. This obtained they build
the pyre. The body is placed upon it, the feet pointing
toward the sacred river. The chief mourner lights a
The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 55
torch, walks seven times about the pyre, then lights the
wood. The mourners then withdraw a little distance and
watch it burn, the chief mourner returning frequently
to push an arm, foot or other portion of the body back
into the glowing flames. It is a horrible sight! And if
the people are poor the body is usually only half burned
because they have been unable to buy sufficient wood.
These half-charred bodies are then thrown into the river,
where the hungry dogs of India have, like the vultures,
learned to wait along the banks for them, and where the
crocodiles devour them as they float down stream. Is
it any wonder that cholera flourishes here? At the time
we were here this deadly disease was raging within fifty
miles of us.
No Laughter Among Women
One morning we personally witnessed fifteen burials
such as I have described, right among the bathers. On
questioning these benighted creatures they assured us
that the water of the Ganges could not be polluted — that
it was absolutely pure! The power and the magnitude
of this ignorance and fanaticism! Is it to be wondered
at that the feeling of depression which took possession
of me when I entered India never left me? The hideous
skin diseases, the blind, the maimed — one meets them
at every turn and their number is appalling! But even
this did not equal in magnitude what I saw in the eyes
of every woman I met in the streets. The hopelessness
56 All the Wa y 'Bound
in those eyes ! Centuries of subjection have crushed her
spirit utterly ! One could see it in the face of the youngest
child! From the babe of six months (who frequently
wears the nose ring) to the woman of extreme old age;
there is no light or laughter in the face of the woman
of India ! The nose ring, by the way, is ostensibly a mark
of personal vanity. To me it is the symbol of savagery
and degradation.
For the coolie woman of India there is no rest. She
does the same labor as the man, only more. For even
when she is carrying stones for building, and perform-
ing other such arduous tasks she is never without her
children. If the child is not carried upon her hip while
she works, or strapped upon her back, then it is sure to
be seen playing about her feet. She is never free from
the care of it. As for the man, although he performs
the same heavy tasks and shares the poverty of the wife,
he does not seem to share her hopelessness and her deg-
radation. He is much more cheerful of countenance than
she.
Efforts to Better Woman's Lot
Criticism is always easy. But the solution of so
gigantic a problem as England has to solve in India
calls for tolerance of opinion and sympathy. Whatever
her efforts, and I am sure they have been great, she
has never made any appreciable improvement in the
condition of woman. Now, however, the propaganda is
The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 57
undoubtedly there that the life of the native woman
must be bettered. We met some cultured Parsee women
and with them I had some interesting conversations on
this subject. Some of them were employed by the gov-
ernment and were just returning from England, whither
they had been sent to make a study of the conditions
surrounding the women of more enlightened countries.
One thing I must say. This is, that no matter what criti-
cism may be offered as to the policy of England in India
the spoils system has not entered there. It is true that
we saw in this country magnificent estates, wonderful
palaces, palatial homes. But each and every one was
owned by a native! Among the latter there are many
multimillionaires, and they spend their wealth lavishly.
The English residents, on the other hand, most of them
army officers and government officials, live simply in
bungalows and modest homes, all that their meager sala-
ries will pay for. This is commendable and does England
and the Englishmen credit.
All tourists will relate that, throughout all India in
many of the temples, the sex worship is the thing most
marked. But at Benares there is a small Nipolese tem-
ple devoted entirely to it. No woman is permitted to
enter. To the masculine visitors, however, lewd, vulgar,
leering priests point out in detail the disgusting features
of their rites. To the mind of the Christian such a thing
as this, masquerading under the name of religion, is
58 All the Way 'Round
a peculiarly revolting form of hypocrisy.
I have already spoken of Ghandi, the great reformer.
The propaganda which England later came to view with
foreboding, if not alarm, was well under way when we
were in India. In his belief that he could lead his people
to emancipation he had aroused great fanaticism, and
the feeling of aggressiveness against England was greatly
accentuated by the knowledge of the vast amount* of
money which was being spent in preparations for the
Durbar and the approaching visit of the Prince of Wales.
Surely, England is living on the edge of a volcano here.
The natives hate the English to a man — a fact revealed
at every turn. The undercurrent of malevolence is very
apparent — so much so that our guide was constantly
announcing that we were American, not English! We
could not but realize that should a leader ever appear
who can weld together the masses it will be the end of
English rule in India. Her eighty thousand soldiers
would stand little chance when pitted against India's
three hundred and twenty-five million malcontents !
Whatever Ghandi's religious views, whatever his am-
bitions for his people, it must be conceded that person-
ally he is a wonderful man. Cultured and intelligent,
educated in Europe, living the life of an ascetic, his very
picturesqueness appeals to his followers. He has taken
a vow of silence. One day each week he spends in bed,
and no amount of solicitation will move him to break this
The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 59
vow. A newspaper man told me of a remarkable inter-
view which he had with him during which all Ghandi' s
answers were written. He had chanced to call upon him
on his day of silence.
Despite the harsh criticism from the outside which
has been hurled upon him, to the people of his own coun-
try he is a god. They believe him to be absolutely, unself-
ishly sincere, gifted with powers almost divine. And
after all, these are the attributes of a great leader. What
England should have done in the beginning, and did not,
she did too late. His influence had become too powerful.
At last England had him arrested. But — the pebble had
been thrown into the pool. The waters were already
violently agitated. The circles widened every day. The
seed which had been quietly planted began to bear fruit.
It was too late to stop either the agitation of the pool,
or to destroy the abundance of the harvest. The propa-
ganda goes steadily on. We were warned that travel in
India at this time was not without danger. But aside
from occasional riotings in the streets, we escaped any-
thing unpleasant. Friends who had preceded us related
that they had seen people killed more than once.
The Monkeys of Benares
I have spoken of the Monkey Temple of Benares. It
is very curious and pretty, dedicated to Kai, the goddess
wife of Siva. It is infested with monkeys. How anyone
60 All the Way 'Round
could worship in this place is quite beyond my compre-
hension. The image of the goddess is hideous. It is
black and has a fiery red tongue which reaches to her
waist. She is dripping with blood, crowned with snakes,
and hanging from her neck is a chain of human skulls !
She demands blood sacrifices, and if such are not fre-
quent, disaster is sure to follow ! Such a cheerful propo-
sition! Every Indian town, I am told, has a temple to
this terrible goddess. I presume that at one time the
sacrifices in these temples were human ones, but this is
not now permitted by the government. But the sacrifices
are always alive when offered. What a strange religion
which worships demons rather than the gentler gods!
The usual sacrifice now is a goat, but it is claimed that at
times of pestilence, famine, or other disaster it is not
unusual to find a human head — generally that of a
child— lying at the feet of the goddess! The monkeys
which surround one who enters here are the fattest and
the ugliest ones imaginable. They are so clamorous for
food that one has to be continually pushing them away.
In its desire for the bit which I had in my hand one
snatched at it, tearing my glove. The surgeon from Chi-
cago, who was with us, anxiously looked at my hand
to see whether it was scratched, but fortunately this was
not the case. Really, one can imagine nothing more dis-
gusting than this horrible Monkey Temple with its nause-
ating customs, hidden under the cloak of sanctity.
The Gan ges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 61
England's Formidable Task
As has already been said, whatever the intelligent
thinker may see to criticize in England's policy in India,
one thing should be kept in mind. Wherever there is
work to be done there is always opportunity for criticism.
It is so in this case. India could not live without England,
and God help her should England, either willingly or
because of revolution, desert her !
India has been called the land of topsy-turvy. It is a
fitting name. "We were both surprised and amused to
find things done in exactly the opposite way to which we
were accustomed! For instance, one of our rules of
health is to keep our heads cool and our feet warm. The
native of India has the opposite idea. He carefully cov-
ers his head to keep it warm, and bares his feet to keep
them cool! When he enters the mosque he carefully
removes his shoes. But he would never dream of remov-
ing his turban! At his meals he takes his sweets first,
and, with the exception of the Parsees, the men never walk
with their women. The latter follow along in the rear !
When a man beckons to you he holds his hand not upward
but downward, and he clucks to his horse not to make it
go but to make it stop !
Some Indian Customs
The fruits of India, such as the mangoes and man-
gosteens, are celebrated the world over and the rosy red
62 All the Way 'Bound
bananas are delicious. The dress of the Hindu woman
varies according to the section of the country in which
she lives. But from the landing at Bombay all the way
through the land they are always found laden with jewels
and ornaments, the nose ring playing a conspicuous part.
The ordinary woman wears the saris of cotton draped
about her limbs and a broad shawl over her shoulders,
or else a skimpy bodice which reveals all the rest of her
toilet. They are fond of color, especially the blues and
greens. Of course, the richer women wear silk skirts,
sketchy bodices, and the voluminous white chadar. An-
kles, toes, hands, and ears are covered with all the jeweled
ornaments they can possibly get on them, and the little
girls are miniature copies of their mothers. Two Indian
customs annoy the traveler greatly. One is the habit they
have of removing their shoes and placing their feet on
the seat right in front of your face. The other is the
horrid custom of chewing the betel-nut, the red saliva
running down the face in a most disgusting manner.
The climate of India always proves a surprise. One
naturally expects heat there. But the coldness of the
Punjab night is a thing long to be remembered. In Jan-
nary and February it is quite usual for shallow pools to
freeze. Travelers must guard against malaria, and the
mosquito bite here, as elsewhere, is poisonous. Malaria is
one of the deadliest things which India has to fight. Its
history is a tale two thousand years long. When it is
The Ganges; Ghandi, The Great Reformer 63
estimated that malaria kills three hundred and fifty thou-
sand each year in India alone, the deadly surgical work of
the mosquito is easily understood. We took no chances.
No matter where we went we slept under mosquito bars.
Neither did we wish to take any chances of contracting
that other deadly thing — cholera. So, from the day we
entered the East, we tasted no uncooked food, drank no
unboiled water, the only exception being when we reached
Baguio, in the Philippines, where the government has
charge of everything. Difficult as it was to refuse the
delicious strawberries and the delectable fruits, we found
that it paid. We had not a day's illness.
An Unpleasant Experience
Everyone knows the deadlines s of the sting of both
serpents and insects in India. Near Benares one day
I had a terrible fright. As I w x as preparing to retire at
night I found my undergarments saturated with blood,
and on one of my limbs a small spot resembling in size
and shape a silver dollar. It was inky-black and right
in the center was a tiny opening resembling the prick of
a pin. For protection against such contingencies we had
carried a bottle of iodine with us, but in my fright I
forgot all about it and fled to the apartment of the Chi-
cago surgeon to whom I have already referred and who
was traveling with us at this time. He admitted that he
had never seen anything like it but advised me to make
64 All the Way 'Round
use of the iodine and await results. I had felt no pain
at any time, nor did I then feel discomfort. But the
place certainly looked angry and that black spot remained
for weeks and weeks. Even now a slight discoloration
reminds me of it. Having heard so much of the poison-
ous insects of the East, my perturbation was great. I
was quite sure that I was doomed ! India is not, of course,
the only country where one frequently loses his life from
the sting of a tiny creature. But when one recalls the
appalling fact that the plague, usually called the Black
Death, carried off seven millions of people in fourteen
years in India alone, anything at all out of the ordinary
sets one thinking! Like the object which one sees ahead
in the fog, a slight accident becomes distorted in shape
and magnified in size !
CHAPTER VI
THE " BACK DOOR " OF INDIA : CALCUTTA
OUR next stop was Calcutta. Here I had the pleasure
of meeting my nephew who has been connected with
a large American company there for some years. On our
travels we had met the president of this company and
his son, like ourselves making a tour of the world. Meet-
ing thus in Calcutta, we spent many charming hours, and
no matter whither we journeyed we had one constant
illustration of the manner in which people are deceived
by what, for lack of a better name, we know as " Public
Opinion." Public opinion, so called, is a huge joke ! It
may be opinion all right, but it is seldom the opinion of
the public! Here was a case in point. In spite of the
talk which was general over the whole world as to the
hardness of the times and the economic depression, no
matter where we went or how we traveled, we found every
hotel filled to capacity, even to overflowing. It was al-
most impossible to get satisfactory accommodations
anywhere. Every hotel was filled with travelers, and
among these Americans predominated. It was most
inconvenient.
A Country of Surpassing Interest
In looking back over our journey we concede that
India was by all odds the most interesting country we
65
G6 All the Way 'Round
saw — even in spite of its terrible poverty, its loathsome
diseases, its ignorance. Only one hundred in every thou-
sand can read. But its superb Himalayas, its magnificent
temples, the richness of the carvings which fairly over-
whelm one, its problems of caste and social inequality,
its customs, different from those of any other part of
the world, its air of mystery — all these things work
together to make the real India. Yet — it is not a
white man's country ! The two elements which seemingly
do not trouble the natives at all, namely, the sun and
the food, are the enemies of the white race. One never
sees an European or an American who has not that pasty,
bloodless look which speaks of ill-health and lack of
vitality. It is scarcely necessary to refer to the well-
known fact that every child born of European parents
in this country, precociously developed because of the
climate, must be sent hack home before the age of six.
It is quite common to hear some father or mother say,
"I have just said good-bye to my children. It will be
four years before I can get to England to see them
again ! "
None of these foreign residents ever dare deviate for
a moment from the rule I have mentioned in regard to
uncooked food and unboiled water. Should they do so,
they never fail to rue it. The consequences are severe,
often fatal. "While we were in Calcutta a sad accident of
this character occurred. A young man with a very
The " Back Door" of India: Calcutta 67
charming little wife had been living upon a meager salary
in England, but having proved competent above the aver-
age, he had been transferred to the Calcutta branch of
the house at a very handsome salary. For the first time
in his life he had no financial worries. He had bought a
pretty home, had a fine motor car and plenty of servants.
For three months they had been the happiest of couples.
But ten days before we came, being inordinately thirsty,
he one day broke the rule and against the advice of his
employees drank a glass of cold, unboiled milk. During
our stay he died. Cholera is ever present in Calcutta,
but the bubonic plague, so deadly in other sections of
India, is not bad here. I was unable to learn why this
was so.
Calcutta Too Modern
We did not find Calcutta as interesting as the other
Indian cities, the reason being that it is so modern. One
need not travel to the Orient in order to see a modern
city. It has broad paved streets and many other modern
adornments. The Buddhist Pagoda there, called by some
the great Jewel Box of the World, was to me the least
interesting of the temples that we saw. True, it is a mar-
velous elaboration of the goldsmith's art. It is chiseled
in a lacelike pattern, covered with mosaic made of marble
and mirror glass. This reflects the light in such a man-
ner that it has the effect of being encrusted with dia-
68 All the Way 'Round
monds. Everybody visits the Pagoda, of course. But
it is too ornate for the lover of beautiful art and archi-
tecture to really admire.
The fine hotels, the delightful people, the splendid
clubs on the outskirts of the city — these are our pleasant
memories of Calcutta. In this city we had friends and
our enjoyment was thereby increased. At the clubs men-
tioned the usual sports were indulged in. Tennis and
golf were played. Here, at about five o'clock in the after-
noon, the social life of the city is to be seen at its height.
And right here I would say something which I find to
be a subject of general conversation among returned
American travelers. Due, perhaps, to my Puritan an-
cestry, I find myself unable to get rid entirely of the
distaste instilled into me when young for seeing a woman
smoke. But my objections, if not removed, were cer-
tainly dulled while journeying around the modern world
this time. At the clubs referred to, everybody, both men
and women, smoked. Also, each had his and her whisky
and soda ! The custom, seemingly, has become universal.
No city that we visited but had its feminine users of the
weed. They are fully as numerous as the men, and in
some places the customs are such as to provoke much
mirth. For instance, in Burma, the women smoke huge,
black, thick cheroots. The men use tiny, delicate cigar-
ettes! So much for the progress and enlightenment of
the woman of the twentieth century. Another thing we
The " Back Door" of India: Calcutta 69
learned was that in this warm country no liquor or stimu-
lant is ever taken before five o'clock. After this hour,
however, all who wish indulge to their satisfaction. But
the traveler who wishes to take a cocktail at luncheon
can never persuade the resident to join him.
The " Brain Fever " Bird
I have spoken at times of the depression which follows
one almost constantly while traveling in India. There
are moments, of course, when one forgets it, or is able to
put it temporarily in the background — when the sheer
beauty of the land, the picturesqueness of the life, are the
things uppermost in one's thoughts. But even during
these moments one is likely to have some unusual experi-
ence. On one occasion I was sitting at one of these beau-
tiful clubs, just idly watching the changing scene which
spread out before me. Through wondrous and gorgeous
palms I was watching a red sunset that I can never forget,
and after it had passed the brilliancy of the stars which
came creeping out, the "forget-me-nots," as Longfellow
calls them, " of the angels." Everything that was sad or
troublesome seemed very far away. But suddenly, right
above my head, I heard the most mournful cry of a bird.
I had thought our American whippoorwill the most
weird of the feathered flocks, but its lone cry cannot be
compared to that which I heard on this night. Greatly
startled, I asked, "What is that?" The reply was, "It
70 All the Way 'Bound
is the Brain Fever Bird ! " " But," I insisted, " what is
its real name? " Again I was told that that is its correct
name, and certainly it is correctly called. For it says
distinctly, over and over again, in constant repetition,
the words, " brain fever, brain fever, BEAIN FEVER ! "
To the resident the first cry of this bird is the signal
that the extreme hot weather is approaching, bringing
with it the ever-recurring epidemic of brain fever which
always attends it. I was told that to those who were ill
of brain fever the constant repetition of the cry of this
unusual bird is maddening. Needless to say that, in spite
of the gaiety and beauty of the surroundings, my depres-
sion returned. Those who live there, however, seem not
to mind it.
There was so much that one must miss in India. What
we saw we saw very thoroughly, but we feel that some
day we must surely go again. Any story of a trip such
as we made is of necessity sketchy. The half can never
be told. Besides, the varying climate prevents covering
all the country in one journey. The celebrated Vale of
Kashmir, famed in song and story, we could not see.
The road to it was impassable at the season that we were
there. So its eternal snows, its mighty peaks, its mead-
ows of flowers, and its strange inhabitants must wait
another time.
One of our greatest disappointments, however, was
not a failure to see beautiful scenery. There is probably
The " Back Door" of India: Calcutta 71
no section of equal extent in the world which has pro-
duced so large a number of deep religious thinkers as
that section in northern India watered by the Ganges.
It is one of the anomalies of India that her people love
their religion with a deep and passionate love, although
the two greatest of those religions — Hindu and Islam —
are opposite poles in thought, practice, and character.
If the history of a country is molded by its physical
geography and climatic conditions, then surely the char-
acter of its people is molded by their religious beliefs.
Tagore a Great Force for Good
As one passes through the land he cannot but be im-
pressed by the influence which that great scholar and
thinker, Eabindranath Tagore, has had upon his people —
not only upon the intellectual and educated element, but
upon all of them. They all know, respect, and love him.
We in America who have only met him, who have perhaps
listened to his readings, and been enthralled by his beau-
tiful and lofty philosophy, can form no idea of the power
he wields in this, his own land. About ninety miles from
Calcutta he has established a school, where he is endeav-
oring by education and correct living to uplift and ele-
vate his people. Highly educated himself, he is the most
modest of men. He lives the simplest of lives in his
tiny bungalow on the grounds, and although in his sev-
enties, he is vigorous and sturdy, attending to his own
72 All the Way 'Round
personal wants, going so far, I am told, as to keep no
servant. He has, however, an able secretary, who attends
to his immense correspondence. He permits himself
little time for rest, works continuously, spends all his
personal money and the many gifts sent him upon the
school in which he is so deeply interested.
We carried letters to him from dear friends in
America, the H — family of Santa Fe. They wrote us,
" Please, please see Dr. Tagore. He is one of our dearest
friends and will welcome you cordially, because we have
written him." We looked forward to seeing him in that
tiny home of which we had heard so much, such a home
as all great men love, surrounded by a little colony of
earnest workers and thinkers. We found as we went
our way that this home of Dr. Tagore's, small and insig-
nificant as it is, is known throughout the world. He
wrote us cordially, and then wired, asking us to be his
guests. But our plans so arranged themselves that at
the last we found it impossible to accept. Much as we
desired to see him, our stay was too limited for us to
spare the three days necessary to reach him and his little
colony. Most reluctantly we relinquished the journey,
and the regret at not seeing him still lingers. We cannot
help feeling that truly we lost one of the most interesting
experiences that all India could offer us.
CHAPTEE VII
BEAUTIFUL DARJEELING ; MOUNT EVEREST, ROOF OF THE WORLD
IN THE heart of the Himalayas, about four hundred
miles from Calcutta, lies the beautiful city of Darjeel-
ing. It is about six thousand feet above the level of the
sea. It was well for us that we had taken a nice rest
in Calcutta, for in a way it prepared us for one of the
most trying journeys we had to make, although the roads
were fairly good and the trains most comfortable. The
railroad officials, however, seemed absolutely indifferent
as to the convenience of the traveler. Even at the risk
of being tautological (I have referred to the same thing
in my book on South America), I must speak again of the
fact that foreign countries are one hideous succession
of uprisings and rebellions. We can certainly testify to
the uprisings. Every old train, starting to every or any
old place, never left later than five o'clock in the morn-
ing. When, with what my husband insisted was feminine
impertinence, I protested to the officials, I was given the
information that in order to reach Darjeeling we should
have to ride over roads of three different gauges, broad,
regular, and narrow gauge. Such a thing as a through
train, evidently, has never occurred to them, and at one
of the changes from broad to narrow one must needs rise
at four-thirty A. M. Once more I protested in a loud
voice. And I am still protesting. In the twenty-four
73
74 All the Way 'Round
there are, I am confident, other hours at which one might
easily depart and arrive. Uprisings and rebellions ! They
were many and violent.
Andes Dwarfed by Himalayas
Once on the way, however, my irritation would dis-
appear. We who had crossed the Andes six times and
who thought that nothing could equal, far less surpass,
them in sublimity and grandeur, stood breathless in the
presence of the Himalayas and the magnificent approach
to Darjeeling. We were carried through the seemingly
limitless and boundless plains of India of which so much
has been said and written. No language can exaggerate
the wonder, the curious and interesting blending of this
plain, with the rugged, stern, and arid mountains. The
winding railroad, one of the finest pieces of engineering
in the world, twists, turns, loops, and once in its progress
describes the figure eight, giving vistas of unusual beauty,
showing glimpses far below of large rivers, which, when
looked down upon, seem but tiny ribbons.
After taking the narrow gauge road, we passed across
a level grade containing a dense forest, where, we were
told, tigers and elephants abound, and into which the
natives never venture. In our hours of travel we passed
beyond the altitude of bamboo and banana and left back
of us the great Darjeeling tea plantations of which the
world has heard so much. We passed through so many
Beautifu l Darjeeling; Mount Everest 75
mountain villages where we saw new races of men —
bright, active, Nepaulese men and women. I was hor-
rified to see the latter so heavily laden. They wear a
band across their foreheads to support the packs upon
their backs. They were good natured, although some of
them were very filthy, and all had beautiful white teeth.
Their cheeks were painted a brilliant red. They were
loaded with jewels, carrying all their wealth in corals,
silver bracelets, and anklets. Stuck on one side of the
nose were round, jeweled discs, some of which were twice
the size of a silver dollar. Among the richer class these
discs were made of gold, so beautiful and so expensive,
that I decided I could not afford them. Frequently all
that a woman is worth will be put into these gold discs
to be worn in the nose.
A Cold Hill Station
The boundary line of Thibet is here, just beyond Dar-
jeeling, and in these picturesque villages one sees this
fine type of people — sturdy, open-faced, and in strong
contrast to the Bengalese rice pickers and the other
weaker inhabitants of the country. The extreme cold of
Darjeeling makes it one of the favorites of what is known
as the Hill Stations of India. These hill stations may
well be called the lungs of India. How necessary they
are when the extreme heat comes, only those who can
flee to them know. Every one who can possibly manage
76 All the Way 'Round
it goes to Simla, Darjeeling, or some other hill station
for the extremely warm weather. We did not get to
Simla. It was winter when we were in India and the
place was closed. But we could well understand from
seeing Darjeeling, surrounded as it is by perpetual snows,
what the cool breath must mean to those who swelter in
the torrid heat of the lower places of India. I can truly
say that I was never so cold in my life as I was in Dar-
jeeling. Wrapped in furs and the warmest of clothing,
I shivered continuously and could not keep warm.
On these heights we frequently met with most inter-
esting experiences. One of these was the fact that the
porters were all women. The climb from the station is
a hard one. We made it in jinrickshas, but the women
made it afoot, bearing heavy luggage on their backs, held
in place by the strap fastened across the forehead. As
usual, though, they were laden with bracelets and rings,
and they were soft-eyed and pretty to look at. In the
bazaar, especially on Sunday, is to be found a seething
mass of people — thousands of them, from many quar-
ters — Bhootan, Thibet, Nepaul, and other places. They
bring small stocks of wares for sale, small because they
must climb over the pass of eighteen thousand feet in
order to reach this market. Often they travel two or
three days, sleep on the bare ground in the cold, and when
their stuff is sold they have received for it but a few
pennies. Yet they look happy and contented.
w
Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 77
View of Kinchinjinga
We saw here a curious old Thibetan temple. Outside
were rows of poles, from each of which fluttered a slen-
der pennant — the offerings to their gods. On the inside
were their priests, following their weird custom of beat-
ing gongs to accompany their petitions. We found the
bazaar very interesting. Darjeeling is a summer resort
in the fullest meaning of the word, a picturesque town,
summer home of the lieutenant-governor of India, who is
also governor of Bengal. It has a barracks and a hos-
pital. English troops are, of course, stationed here.
Perched upon the side of the mountain, the city's front
yard is the great valley which spreads out below, and
out of which rise peaks eight, ten, twelve thousand feet
high. The sky line is magnificent. Beyond, forty miles
away, mighty Kinchinjinga, twenty-eight thousand one
hundred and fifty feet high, lifts its lofty head. Next to
Mount Everest, it is the highest peak in the world. Often
in my life I have sat and mused upon whether one's
dreams ever come true. Sitting here, looking out upon
this glorious panorama, I no longer wondered. I know
they sometimes do.
Glories of a Sunset
Oh, the wonder and the glory of that first sunset at
Darjeeling! We had taken jinrickshas and ascended to
78 All the Way 'Round
a sight-seeing point. Huge banks of snowy clouds lying
with peculiar effect below the mountain tops like soft,
billowy blankets, rolled slowly down the sides. It was
a curious and interesting sight, because the tops of the
range were uncovered, the clouds below them. As the
sun descended the clouds became crimson and gold, light-
ing up the snow-crested Kinchinjinga and the neighbor-
ing peaks with wonderful brilliancy. Suddenly, however,
as if touched by the hand of a demon, the scene was
transformed. The soft, rose-colored clouds below the
mountains became an ugly gray. The wondrous heights
of Kinchinjinga loomed angry and forbidding, almost
black. Despite this, however, the scene was even more
beautiful than before, for all this gloomy change was
outlined against a sky of flaming brightness.
Our real object in coming to Darjeeling was to visit
Tiger Hill. It is six miles farther on and at an elevation
of nine thousand feet. Here we were to obtain, if the
gods were favorable, a sight of Mount Everest. As this
mountain is twenty-nine thousand and two feet, very
little beyond the height of the great Kinchinjinga, and
as it lies a hundred and fifty miles away, one gets but
the slightest peep at it, even if he is lucky enough to see
it at all. Many people remain for weeks and for months,
and are then compelled to leave without a sight of it.
We were fortunate. The peak was in full view for the
entire three days that we were there, but on the fourth
Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 79
day it was covered again and remained so for weeks.
It is a time-honored custom to see Mount Everest
at dawn. I have already referred feelingly to the various
uprisings which attended my trip through India. But if
I had thought the previous ones trying, I certainly re-
ceived the shock of my life when we visited Tiger Hill.
I was informed that this uprising would take place not
at dawTi but at two-thirty A. M. Now, I had already
discovered one thing, namely, that they always have a
reason for everything they do, even the most disagreeable
things which they require of the tourist, and I was soon
to learn the reason for this. We were to see Mount
Everest at dawn, but in order to do so we must make a
climb of six miles to the top of Tiger Hill, from which
the view is to be obtained. It was necessary, therefore,
that each be in the dandy at three, sharp.
On the Way to Tiger Hill
These little conveyances are reclining chairs. Enter-
ing ours, w r e were carried up the steep mountain, a truly
wonderful feat being accomplished by our bearers, who
made the six miles in two hours. After a cup of coffee
and a piece of toast we made the start promptly at three.
Never in my life have I experienced such a chill. Here
in the heart of the Himalayas one surely finds himself
in Nature's ice-box. Although prepared for the trip,
armed with fur coats, warm woolen underwear, fur rugs
80 All the Way 'Round
above, beneath and around us, we were simply chilled to
the marrow of our bones, as are all who make the ascent
at this time of the year. In a dandy one lies at almost
full length. What I that night looked out upon was a
sight the like of which I shall perhaps never see again.
The glitter of the stars ! Never before had they seemed
so near. On this six-mile trip up the mountain I saw
fifteen shooting stars. Sirius, like a small sun, was send-
ing down a brilliant line of light, and there were many
other luminous stars unfamiliar to me. Overhead were
the Big and Little Dippers, and Orion seemed an old,
familiar friend. As we moved through the forest, in
which, although dark, the trees being absolutely straight,
I had glimpses of the starlit sky. But in the open spaces
this jeweled firmament became a vision of pure delight.
The Darjeeling men wear long hair, while the women
chop theirs. This peculiarity, and the fact that my six
stalwart bearers were such strange-looking men — a type
I had not come in contact with before, formed the reason
why I did not observe that they had picked me up in my
dandy as if I were as light as a feather and that I was
already a mile up the mountain ahead of the rest of the
party. My husband has always claimed that for a woman
who has as much self-reliance as I have, who is always
at ease and certainly unafraid in her own country and
who (as he laughingly claims) rules her household with
a rod of iron, develops an almost unbelievable timidity
Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 81
the moment she crosses the ocean. He declares that only
in Europe or some other far-away continent is he really
master of the family menage — thai there his word is
absolute law to me, that I never so much as cross the
street without his permission.
Panic-Stricken in the Dark
With this sub rosa picture of our domestic relations
you can well understand the wild panic which seized me
when I realized that I was in the dense forest, in the heart
of the mountains, with six men of a tribe recognized as
the boldest and almost the most savage of the Thibetans.
With the knowledge of the great unrest in India, with the
hostility openly evinced toward the English, for whom
we were constantly being mistaken, one can understand
a little of my state of mind. I realized my helplessness
in case of danger. My cries and calls to my husband
received no answer. My haughty commands to these
creatures to put me down and await the sahib met with
absolutely no attention. I was simply frightened to
death ! At last, however, reason came to the rescue. Like
many other women, nervous, timid, frightened and wor-
ried over the small things of life, I seem always to regain
my poise in the emergencies. These emergencies, like the
hill stations of this country we were visiting, may be few
and far between, but also like them, they bring coolness
and tranquillity and restore me to my normal state. So,
82 All the Way 'Round
reasoning with myself I accept the inevitable, no matter
what it is.
As I became less agitated I felt assured that these
men, with their weird, incessant chant, were not, after
all, intent upon murdering me on the way to Tiger Hill.
Once the thought came to me I leaned back serene and
calm in my little dandy and thoroughly enjoyed the
beauty of the scene. But until we reached Tiger Hill,
where I waited for fully twenty minutes before the rest
of the party joined us, I saw not a soul. And for once I
had a laugh on this redoubtable husband of mine! He
had to confess that he had passed through a similar ex-
perience, his calls to the drivers and to me remaining
unanswered. He was almost as disturbed as I had been.
Of course, he says that he was troubled only because he
knew of my nervousness and feared the effect of such an
experience upon me ! Anyway, when he reached the top,
he was distinctly and unmistakably glad to see me.
The Monarch of Mountains
On Tiger Hill we paused for the view of Mount
Everest. Breathless we watched. Kinchinjinga stood
out, absolutely cloudless, and when the sun, a red ball of
fire, came up out of the rosegold mist it topped these lofty
peaks until they resembled golden domes. Nothing can
equal the glory and the beauty of this picture. No words
can describe it. In South America we had crossed at
Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 83
sixteen thousand feet (at the Cerro del Pasco mines) the
Andes. Here now were the glorious Himalayas, spread
out before us in heights of twenty-seven and twenty-eight
thousand feet. And towering above them all, at the height
of twenty-nine thousand feet, rose Mount Everest, king
of peaks ! In Bolivia, Lake Titicaca had shown us many
glories. But here, between us and the great uncovered
heights, lay the lower range covered with clouds, pink,
yellow or rose according to the way that they were touched
by the rays of the rising sun. This imposing lower range
is Kinchinjinga and her companions, and thrilled as we
were at sight of it we were much more affected when,
turning only slightly, we obtained our view, and a perfect
view it was, of the very top of Mount Everest — white-
crowned monarch of the giant range. Unrivaled it stands
before the world. Although wrapped in furs and almost
freezing, we lingered in the radiance of this early dawn
and were fired with enthusiasm. The Himalayan king
and his snow-crowned subjects ! Who that has seen can
ever forget? We looked across vast chasms to that far-
away line of perpetual snows. A glittering wall of white
lay before us, rent now and then by enormous masses of
bare granite. The grandeur of this scene, glorified by
the golden, spear-like shafts of light cast by the rising
sun, there are no words in the language to portray. The
sunshine heightens the beauty of the scene. By moon-
light it is exquisite. Glorious as are the temples, the
84 All the Way 'Round
gopuras, the rivers and the plains of India, nothing can
exceed the beauty of her mountains, nor can any words
convey an adequate idea of the many marvels which here
exist.
Beggary in the Midst of Beauty
But with all the delights, all the strange beauty which
we have seen, the plaintive dejection of the natives haunts
me yet. Half of India is begging. Her indigent are not
only poor — they are filthy and diseased. Crippled, blind
and maimed — you simply cannot go where they are not
to be seen. They gather about you all the time. The
people have the appearance of just seeming not to care !
What is, must be ! This is their hopeless attitude, and to
look upon them takes away the pleasure of traveling in
India. But — it is among this class of people that the
teachings of Ghandi, the great reformer, are being most
widely propagated. Gradually it is being absorbed.
What will the harvest be?
The next few years will tell the tale. If uprisings and
revolutions are not born it will be because the English
will take drastic measures for reform. The outlook now
is one of aggressiveness on the part of the natives. The
people want justice!
To the American traveler the two hundred and twenty-
five castes in India are not only puzzling — they border
upon the ludicrous. Had we not had a good guide and a
competent servant I fear we should have made many
Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 85
blunders. To me there is something excruciatingly funny
in the knowledge that the street-sweeper may be of so
high a caste that the Prince of Wales would contaminate
him should he accidentally touch him while passing by !
On the morning of our arrival in Bombay we were much
mystified at the persistent and spectacular waving of
hands by a water-carrier. It was finally explained to us
that an apparent beggar standing near wished a drink.
He was almost naked and filthy beyond description. But
this high-caste gentleman could not quench his thirst
owing to our proximity! We cheerfully removed our-
selves to a safe distance, moved to do so, I fear, more
because of his appearance than because we really felt that
we might pollute his drinking supply.
Discomfort in Travel
I have already said that Indian railroads and cars are
things to be avoided whenever and wherever possible.
The traveler's comfort and convenience — even his neces-
sary information — are not considered. Accustomed to
comfortable travel elsewhere, and especially to luxurious
travel in America, there were times when we were abso-
lutely bewildered. The train possesses no such thing as
a conductor. There is a man who looks at your ticket
when you enter the station and again when you leave it.
This is always at the gates. There are no porters. The
traveler must know where to change cars, where to get
86 All the Way 'Round
out for meals, where to — well, he has to know everything
in regard to his trip or else he is completely lost. And
when one has to arise at anywhere from two to four A. M.
in order to catch a train he must awaken himself — or
get left!
After the succession of uprisings to which I have made
frequent mention, I determined upon one thing — namely,
that I should have at least two good nights' rest before we
made the start down from Darjeeling. For, to add insult
to injury, that train started back at the same unearthly
hour. The next morning, therefore, in the icy cold of
those fireless rooms, snugly ensconced in furs, water-
bottles and other paraphernalia supposed to produce heat,
I lay in bed in delicious languor, smiling to myself in the
darkness when I heard the others making ready for the
early start to Tiger Hill, completely satisfied that / did
not have to arise until I was ready.
Descent to the Plains
The descent we found quite as interesting as the climb
had been. We retraced our steps past the Darjeeling tea
plantations, and on the way down came to a very fine
Catholic college or institution of some kind — evidence
of the manner in which the church finds its way to
remotest heights.
When I say that we feel that we have seen India pretty
thoroughly I mean, of course, southern India. In spite of
Beautiful Darjeeling; Mount Everest 87
the drawbacks to travel which I have already mentioned,
there is about the country a seductive charm. One always
longs to go back. To this longing we are no exception.
Already we are looking forward to the next journey when
we may visit those parts of the country which by force
of circumstances we had this time to forego.
CHAPTER VIII
MADRAS AND MADURA ; HALL OF A THOUSAND PILLARS ; GOLDEN
LILY TANK
IT WAS an awful night that we spent on the train which
carried us from Calcutta to Madras. At every station
natives pounded on the doors to know if we wished any-
thing ! They waked us at four-thirty to ask if we wanted
chota-hazri — the coffee and rolls which are served when
one wakens, the regular breakfast coming some hours
later. The chota-hazri habit, by the way, is very easily
acquired. We found it a most agreeable one — except for
the early hour at which it was brought.
At Madras we got our first sight of the Bay of Bengal
— such a beautiful sheet of water, but filled, we were told,
with sharks and the most horrible reptiles. The bathers
in it, therefore, are most cautious. These snakes run from
two to ten feet in length and are more poisonous, if that
were possible, than the cobra. We saw them in the
aquarium — and that was quite close enough. Here we
saw also what is called the bird fish, because its scales, if
so they may be called, look like real feathers. One of
these which we saw was most unusual. It was in color
like the canary bird and was called the canary fish. It has
feet. It walked on the bottom of the tank — the only
member of the finny tribe I ever saw that walked on two
Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 89
feet ! These bird-fish are the prettiest things imaginable
— the bluebird fish, the butterfly fish, and others of sim-
ilar name. Even in Honolulu, where the aquarium is so
wonderful and the fish so varied, we never saw anything
so beautiful or so gorgeously colored as these of the
aquarium of Madras. Here, also, were sea horses and
cows. These are rather rare. One does not see them
often.
Taking Up One's Bed
There was a beautiful drive along the coast of the
bay, and we drove to the church where St. Thomas, the
doubting Disciple, is buried. I have spoken often of the
poor train service of India, but it occurs to me now that
I have forgotten to speak of the worst thing of all. There
is no such thing in the country as a sleeping-car. One
carries his own bedding, etc., a custom which I strenu-
ously resented at first, but which, afterward, I found to be
our greatest safety. With our own mattresses, which our
bearers carried, and our own pillows, we managed to
make ourselves quite comfortable. The otherwise roomy
compartments have nothing but hard benches, which must
be softened by bedding if one wishes to travel in India in
any sort of comfort. The compartments are supposed to
accommodate four, but we found that a small tip (in
American money) judiciously bestowed, worked wonders
here — as elsewhere. "What seemed to us like a very small
90 All the Way 'Round
sum, to them is a large one. We always managed to get
a compartment to ourselves. At best, however, one's rest
is far from satisfactory and at times the heat, together
with my strenuous guide in the person of my husband,
combined to render me almost desperate. As an example
of the latter — it is the custom in all of these countries
to go to bed and sleep from eleven till three. Recuperat-
ing in this manner daily, one manages to hoard his much-
tried strength. The shops are closed between these hours,
but — the temples are open. My husband realized that if
we were living in India we should have to conform to the
custom of the country; otherwise, the climate always gets
one sooner or later, no matter how great his virility. The
anaemic look and pasty appearance is always present
among foreigners. But he insisted that with my extreme
youth (I am four times a grandmother!) and his enor-
mous fund of enthusiasm, not to mention the short time at
our disposal, we could accomplish anything! As a conse-
quence, we went from morn till night. We took no time
off. Wearily we fell asleep at night, only to get up and
take a fresh start next morning. Finally I found that my
enthusiasm equaled his. But it was a strenuous life
while it lasted.
Blavatsky School of Theosophy
Near Madras is the famous School of Theosophy
headed by Madame Blavatsky. We did not attempt to
Car of Juggernaut, Madras
Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 91
visit it, much as I should have liked to do, but we were
told that she has a large following of earnest students
and co-workers, and a charming colony. As we crossed
from Marseilles we met one of her devotees on the
steamer, from whom we learned much of her and of the
faith. There was a time, I believe, when Madame
Blavatsky gave the government much anxiety and no
small amount of trouble. But of late they have been
working in unison for the betterment of the natives, and
I frequently heard her school spoken of very highly by
Englishmen. The member whom I met on the boat was
a charming woman, intelligent to a degree. But I could
not, nor can I yet, understand her religious belief. Like
the Hindus, the Theosophists eat no meat. They take a
vow not to kill any living thing. I longed to ask this dear
lady what she would do if attacked by a swarm of poison-
ous mosquitoes, or in case a nice big cobra should attempt
to become intimately acquainted without introduction.
But I refrained. I knew it would be useless.
Bewildering Array of Animals
One of the fascinations of India is its wild life. The
mischievous gray crow, the tame mongoose (sometimes
just a pet running about the house), the jackals walking
around the streets of a town, making the night hideous
with their peculiar sounds — these are among the common,
every-day things that one sees. Calcutta, particularly, is
92 All the Way 'Bound
full of jackals, and they are the scavengers of the city.
It is the birds, however, which interest the visitor most.
These are so many — gulls, very beautiful in their soft
white-and-gray dresses, the parrots, the love birds with
their blue and emerald sheen, the loveliest things I ever
dreamed of, the paddy birds, the bulbuls, the magpies,
robins, humming birds, bee-eaters, the egrets, walking
about in the hot sun all day long following the buffalo
cows — and many others that I cannot now remember.
Of them all, however, the green parrots and the rose-
colored lorikeets are the loveliest. Their bewildering
brilliancy of plumage is actually so gorgeous that it beg-
gars description. When they fly, gathering in flocks and
chattering from tree to tree, it is truly a wonderful sight.
I remember one occasion as we were driving home in
the soft glow of the Indian sunset from the Taj Mahal,
when we were suddenly attracted by a loud chattering of
birds. We stopped to investigate and found dozens and
dozens of these exquisitely-tinted creatures resting in a
large tree. We sat for a while and watched them as they
quarreled and scolded and fluttered about the tree,
making a picture we shall never forget. However, the
proportion of birds, profuse as they are, is small when
compared with the other wild life of the country — the
big game, as it is commonly called. Think of what the
Prince of Wales (if the paper reports are to be credited)
alone killed during his sojourn in India ! Tiger, leopard,
Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 93
rhinoceros, sloth bear, wild bear, black buck, chinchara,
spotted deer, demoiselle crane, two kinds of partridge,
seven or eight varieties of duck, two kinds of sandgrouse,
and many others ! Add to this the domestic animals, such
as the camel, elephant, buffalo, zebu, two kinds of
monkeys, and even after all of these are counted one has
but touched the fringe, as it were, of the wild life of India.
One might stay in this country for years and yet not be
able to see all that it contains. It is marvelous.
Scenes on the Way to Madura
Referring to my diary on the day that I entered
Madura I find that I have inscribed the classical phrase
" Hot as blazes ! " This was on February third. From
Madras we had been hot, dusty and uncomfortable all
the way. The dust was terrific. I was horrified on
awakening in the morning to find myself confronted by a
tan-colored gentleman. I thought that a native had in-
vaded my apartment. Later, however, I discovered that
it was only my husband. And when I called his atten-
tion to his personal appearance he assured me that I
looked no prettier ! But the ride down had been inter-
esting, if dirty. We passed numberless rice fields, saw
mountains in the distance as well as many little villages
with mud huts and thatched roofs. The natives here are
most picturesque, the men, wearing their black hair long,
were different from any we had yet seen and were very
04 All the Way 'Round
savage-looking. Both men and women, however, were
handsome creatures. All along the route, also, we passed
huge idols, men on horseback with spears encircling them,
elephants and other animals, carved either of stone or
wood, we could not tell which from the train. Thousands
of cocoanut trees laden with fruit met our eyes and when-
ever the train stopped, so primitive was the location that
the monkeys surrounded it, begging for food. With such
interesting surroundings and experiences we forgot our
discomfort. and gave ourselves up to enjoyment.
I have already said that in writing a book on India one
could easily run into several volumes, and one of these
would surely have to be devoted to her trees. Not one
is without interest, from the flowering, flame-colored
jungle tree to the superb, lofty umbrageous umbrella tree.
The celebrated Bo tree, famed in song and verse as the
Peepul tree — the one under which Gautama sat and
which ever since has been known as the sacred tree of
India, is surpassingly beautiful. The banyan has been
so often described that I shall not touch upon it except
to say that the largest one in the world is at Calcutta, the
second largest at Madura.
Thirty-six Thousand Gods
Our first view of the Madura temple was at night.
It was superbly illuminated. The next morning we saw
that its color is a rich, creamy brown. Very gorgeous and
Madura Temple
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Coolie girls, Madura
Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 95
ornate, it is considered the finest example of Dravidian
art in India. The fourteen elaborately-carved towers;
the four immense gateways, and the golden dome — these
are indescribably beautiful. These towers are of enor-
mous height and even the fourteen smaller ones are
carved with figures colossal in size, every feature of
the human body, even to the smallest toe nail, being
perfectly and accurately carved. The labor expended
here is simply inconceivable, and one must always remem-
ber the fact that these carvings are cut from stone or
hard plaster.
In this temple there are thousands of statues of
Siva and his wives as well as all kinds of gods and god-
desses. One must remember also that there are thirty-
six thousand gods for the Indians to worship. And to us
it seemed that most, if not all of them, were here in this
one temple. The hideous god Ganesha figures largely
here. He has the elephant's head, the legend being that
he, the son of Siva, was guarding his mother's bed-
chamber that she might enjoy an afternoon nap. He
was told to let no one enter the room. His father, return-
ing unexpectedly, the son denied him entrance, where-
upon Siva promptly cut off his head. Finding his wife
inconsolable over the loss of her son, he generously prom-
ised that he would restore to him the first head he saw
after leaving her chamber. This happened to be the
head of an elephant.
96 All the Way 'Round
The Hall of a Thousand Pillars
Every guidebook has described the Hall of a Thousand
Pillars. It deserves all the beautiful descriptive lan-
guage that has been expended upon it. The Golden Lily
Tank also, so frequently photographed, is certainly a
dream of beauty. But all the magnificence of statued
halls, wonderful handicraft, lovely water tanks, etc., can-
not hide the underlying filth of India. Ill-smelling, gar-
landed cows stand about in the temple. This animal,
being sacred, is worshipped everywhere. In clusters on
the floor the pilgrims are eating their lunch, their offer-
ings of fruit and food, fresh when brought, now lying
rancid and spoiled, lending to the already nauseating
odor of the place.
One thing particularly offensive to the tourist is the
odor of rancid butter, used in a very original way. The
devotees, desirous of gaining some particular favor, buy
pounds of butter (which is fairly expensive in India) and
approaching the god as closely as the railing will per-
mit, throw pounds and pounds of it at him till he is liter-
ally covered with it. These offerings, of course, are the
perquisites of the priests of the temple, and after the
butter has lain there for several days they take it for
their use ! It is certainly a large contributor to the un-
pleasant odor of the place. I was so fascinated by this
unique mode of decorating the god that I did not notice
until my guide spoke to me that a yellow-garbed priest
Madras; Hall of a Thousand Pillars 97
was motioning me to move away. I was too close, it
seems, and was in danger of contaminating the shrine !
At the Golden Lily Tank
The Golden Lily Tank, which is unquestionably beau-
tiful, is the center of this shrine. I could not ascertain
the manner in which this tank is fed, but it has been so
long used by the bathers that its waters are now dark
and green. We watched the bathers, and here again was
a novel method of taking a bath — even a ceremonial one.
They plunge in, dry themselves on a bath towel, then
proceed to rub themselves all over with dry cow-dung
dust! This is a custom, by the way, which prevails all
over India. The dung of the cow is sacred, the people
who gather it are professionals. Walking after the cows
in the street you can see them constantly, these profes-
sional gatherers, waiting for the dropping. It is then
dried in the sun and later sold to these fanatical Hindus
in cakes for fuel, and for powder after the bath. As was
the case at the Ganges, in this Golden Lily Tank the
bathers drink this contaminated water, and when I asked
if they did not regard it as polluted they replied " No ! "
They are not permitted, they told me, to use soap. There-
fore, they argue, the water is absolutely pure and
hygienic ! There were a hundred and fifty thousand pil-
grims visiting the temple at the time we were there, and
the scene was one continuous, moving mass of color.
98 All the Way 'Round
It was in this temple that I saw one more evidence of
the dense unenlightenment of the country. On one of
the pillars I saw a carving. It was that of a man and
woman holding between them a child whose head they
were cutting off. Asking the guide to interpret it for me
I was told this remarkable story. There was an ancient
custom (and it lasted until comparatively recently when
England at last forbade it) whereby a childless couple
would pray to the gods for a child, promising that should
they be granted one of their own, they would at the age
of one year, offer it as a sacrifice in order that they
might have others! This carving represented this cus-
tom, and is but one more specimen of the awful things
which have existed in this country of bewildering beauty
and dense ignorance for centuries. Fearing to appear
prolix and to weary my readers I have not described one-
tenth of the sights of the interior of this temple, one of
the most interesting we saw in our travels. But I can
see it distinctly yet — the kneeling pilgrims, the yellow-
garbed priests, the sacred elephants, surely the most
enormous beasts that I have ever seen and of which there
were more than a dozen in this temple — as I revisualize
the scene it seems naught but color, color, color! And
though the rest of Madura, with its palaces and other
places of interest, was one of the bright spots of our
sojourn in the East, I feel that a description of this
temple is sufficient as a picture of the place.
CHAPTER IX
CEYLON, THE PEAKL OF THE INDIES ; KANDY ; TEMPLE OF
SACRED TOOTH
A FOUR hours' ride through a continuously interest-
ing country of rice fields and villages, brought us
to the spot where we were to catch the boat for Ceylon.
A sail of two hours in the cool of the evening carried us
to the latter place where we caught the train for another
night's ride to Colombo which was our objective point.
Here we relaxed. It was splendid to find in this far-
away land the most comfortable hotel we had seen for
many a day. Facing the Bay of Bengal, just a few feet
from the edge of the shore we had a glimpse of the sun-
set between those two palms, which have been photo-
graphed doubtless oftener than any others on earth.
After the strenuousness of our last few days in India
it was surely delightful to rest at this luxurious hotel.
Colombo is a modern city, therefore not of so great
interest to the traveler as are the ancient and native
cities. It has beautiful homes and clubs ; tennis and golf
grounds, hospitals and stores, and over them all is a
great charm. One lingers here more, however, because
of the sheer beauty of its location, and our pleasure was
heightened by the fact that we met here old friends from
Chicago, Mr. and Mrs. Joseph A — and Mr. and Mrs.
99
100 All the Way 'Round
Barney G— , the latter two youngsters, all six of us
bent upon the same object, namely, to encircle the globe.
What jolly times we had gossiping of home, and the
birthday of one of the members of the party was here
celebrated in great style !
Gautama's Sacred Tooth
Of course we went to Kandy to visit the temple of
the Sacred Tooth. The tooth itself is shown but once
yearly, in December. But Ave saw the wonderful library
and jewelled books. The sacred tooth was, of course,
Gautama's, but it is so enormous that the suspicion is,
that the original tooth must have been lost and one of a
crocodile substituted. The mountain scenery of Ceylon
is very beautiful, the peaks are broken and jagged, the
slopes and gorges green and wooded. The many winds
and curves of the roads over precipices show beautiful
valleys below. One day while we were here we took a
ride up to Nuwara Eliya. Here were once huge coffee
plantations, but now they have been supplanted by tea
gardens. Some insect ruined the coffee plants and now
very few of them are to be seen in Ceylon.
Not far from here are the celebrated Paradeniya
botanical gardens, established by one of the kings of
Ceylon. They contain wonderful specimens of the palm
— one of them being the talipot, which blooms but once
when from forty to fifty years old, the bloom resembling
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 101
ostrich feathers. After the blooming it dies. The gar-
dens contain also nutmeg, clove, allspice, cinnamon and
a great variety of palm; the rubber tree, giant bamboo
(two or three feet in diameter), and all kinds of beau-
tiful flowers. It is a lovely spot, and Nuwara Eliya a
charming place to rest, the altitude being a little over six
thousand feet.
Fruits, Flowers and Birds
All through India we had seen the bullock carts —
the little bullock snow white, with horns curving toward
each other, which were most quaint and interesting.
These little creatures trot madly about, like a pony, and
in the picturesque little carts they draw the natives ride.
The white man or woman, however, loses' caste by so
doing. They are the favorite mode of conveyance in
Colombo. We were served many fruits in Colombo, such
as the mango, but were disappointed in finding the
custard apple, so delicious in Spain and South America,
as tasteless here as sawdust. We had supposed that we
should find it luscious here, but such was not the case.
Many are the beautiful drives out of Kandy and on
one of these I saw for the first time the sandal-wood tree.
There were also satin-wood, mahogany, rubber, teak and
ebony trees. The sandal- wood trees are scarce ; at least,
if there were many, we could not recognize them. Beau-
tiful parrots and bluebirds flew through these trees, and
in addition to the white crane we saw again that won-
102 All the Way 'Round
derful egret bird which we had seen in India, and such
quantities of which we saw later in Burma. It is a
curious fact that this spotlessly white bird should be
attracted to the buffalo (the cow of Burma) the hide of
which is unspeakably filthy from much wallowing in the
mud. The egret bird, however, is always to be seen
perched upon its back, supposedly for the purpose of
picking off and eating the insects. Another tree which
grows here bears the jack fruit, great heavy bunches of
which hang down and upon which the natives live, also
the breadfruit tree — none of the fruit of which we
tasted.
The Begging Elephants
One day we went to the river to see the elephants
bathe. This was an interesting experience — for more
than one reason. The beasts have been taught to beg.
We took with us quantities of bananas with which to feed
them, but not unlike other beggars they sometimes threw
away what was given them and put out the trunk a second
time for something else. This second act is a request for
money for their keepers and they become very solicitous
about the latter. Needless to say we had some money
ready. We presented it and promptly fled as they were
becoming quite pressing in their demands.
The most interesting sight of the streets is, of course,
the people, especially the priests carrying huge leaves
from the banana tree as a protection from the rain, after
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 103
the manner of an umbrella. Here, too, one sees many
specimens of the mongoose which kills the venomous
snakes of India. Should a man find a mongoose in his
yard he will make every effort to keep it. He regards
it as a good omen and thinks himself lucky. Usually the
possession of one of these little animals insured its owner
against the entrance of the deadly cobra and other poi-
sonous reptiles. Here the odor of the frangipani, a deli-
cious perfume of what is here called the temple flower,
was frequently inhaled.
Some Wonderful Ruins
One of our trips out of Kandy was to the deserted
city of Anuradhapura. The ruins of Egypt have been
visited for years. They have been known for centuries.
But these of Ceylon have remained buried in deepest
earth until a comparatively recent date. It has been
known, of course, that great cities had once existed in
the beautiful island, but those cities had vanished from
the face of mother earth and now naught was to be seen
of them. In the early part of the nineteenth century an
Englishman, Lieutenant Fagin (that sounds pretty Irish
to me !), came upon some of these ruins and wrote a little
about them. This was in 1820. But it was not until 1871
that steps were taken to uncover them. A few years later
they were open for all the world to see and admire. It
is a curious fact, though, that out of the thousands of
104 All the Way 'Round
tourists who come annually to Ceylon few care to make
the trip to these wonderful ruins. Practically everyone
who makes the journey to Colombo goes to Kandy and
then on to that charming resort, Nuwara Eliya. But
few go to Anuradhapura and Sigiriya, two of the most
famous spots of old Ceylon.
To see the moonstones is alone worth the journey.
They are so exquisitely carved. These, by the way, are
nothing like the moonstones we know as jewels which
come from the same island. They are large semi-circular
stones sometimes found at the entrances to the temples
of southern India. These in Anuradhapura are so very
pretty, and are as fresh as on the day that they were
carved, who knows how many centuries ago ? The figures
carved are those of the elephant, strange horses, bullocks
and queerly-shaped lions. It has been at least two thou-
sand years since this carving was done, and perhaps much
longer, a fact which when remembered cannot fail to
intensify the interest they hold.
The drive hither from Kandy is from ninety to a
hundred miles by motor. And we made the usual five-
o'clock-in-the-morning-start ! But the ride was wonder-
ful. We found the country flatter than the climb to
Nuwara Eliya had been. There were a few cultivated
villages, interspersed with stretches of real jungle —
the jungle of the tangled vines and scarlet flowers, thickly
mingled with trees, almost, if not quite, impenetrable.
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 105
Here, we were told, tigers and elephants infest the place.
Sometimes, when we would descend from the motor to
view some scene of interest, we were amused to see tor-
toises feeding on the ground just as rabbits do at home.
The place was full of picturesque attractions. The great
red pods of the cocoa hang over the road in clusters.
The people of the plantations are at work, wearing their
red saris and long, ornamental earrings, covering the
whole of the extended lobe — one could scarcely exag-
gerate the picturesqueness of the scene.
Legend of a Remarkable City
The story of this city, founded five hundred years
before Christ, really reads like a fairy tale. A queen
gave birth to ten sons. The eleventh child was a girl
who was called Chitta. There was a prophecy to the
effect that Chitta's son would destroy all his uncles and
inherit the throne. So they ordered her put to death.
But, as is usual in fairy tales, she was secretly saved.
She grew up and when her brothers discovered the fact
they permitted her to marry on condition that should
she have a male child she would slay it. This promise,
also, failed of fulfillment. Her son, too, was secretly
saved, grew up, defeated his uncles in battle and in grati-
tude for the victory built this city of Anuradhapura.
The brazen palace here is remarkable. It stood nine
stories high and contained a thousand rooms. Many of
106 All the Way 'Round
its sixteen hundred stratified pillars are still standing.
The palace of the queen, with its carvings of stone and
jewels is wholly in ruins, but the remains may well be
studied. At the entrance of the steps is to be seen the
famous moonstone peculiar to Singalese architecture, so
called because of its shape. There are colossal statues
of Buddha, beautifully carved ; wonderful elephants and
other animals surrounding the temples. The ruins of the
two hundred and fifty-six square mile city are so impres-
sive, that one cannot but wonder at the perfection of the
civilization which must have existed in this place, the
history of which runs back into mythical antiquity.
The Sacred Bo Tree
Passing a calm Buddha we mounted a high terrace,
from which we again ascended a flight of steps to a plat-
form which surrounds the sacred Bo tree. They say that
this tree was originally on ground level but has been
built up this high by the use of rich and special soil and
that the roots run far, far below the present surface.
Through a set of railings we gazed at the tree which,
whether it came from the sacred tree under which Buddha
sat or not has attained sanctity on its own account be-
cause of its great age. It is known positively that it has
stood here for two thousand and two hundred years. A
temple was formerly over it. Miracles are recorded of
it. Feasts are annually held about it. Pilgrims come
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 107
from far and near just to bow and pray beneath it. It
is one of the eight sacred sites of the Buddhists. Such a
tree cannot fail to inspire, even in the casual traveler,
admiration, even reverence.
Monks in yellowish, almost cinnamon-colored robes
flit about, monkeys with their babies twisted about them
climb the trees. Birds, ever flying and twittering sing
above one's head. Pilgrims pass before you to bow
before the oldest tree in the world. The natural skepti-
cism of the West toward all such relics is silenced. Even
I found myself cherishing the sacred leaf which one of
the priests gave me in exchange for my husband's gift to
him. In standing before these ancient ruins, recalling
the former splendor of the place, one has a sense of deep
respect if nothing more. In the midst of her dilapida-
tion Anuradhapura retains her qualities of stateliness.
Her wonderfully-carved Buddhas are imposing figures
and her goddesses fill one with admiration. The mighty
statues and splendid shrines still flank the dead city and
bear mute testimony of Ceylon's past greatness. To
come suddenly face to face with one of these dark, silent
figures, fearful with repressed vitality, startles one, com-
pels the attention. Their very solemnity, to say nothing
of their size, is awe-inspiring.
On the return trip to Kandy we made a detour to
Sigiriya Hill, also of absorbing interest. It is an im-
pregnable boulder rising above the three- or four-
108 All the Way 'Round
hundred feet of steps which we had climbed. There 1
stopped, but my husband went the whole of the way.
This enormous black rock, rising right out of the jungle,
four hundred feet, on which these palaces, forts and
elephant stables have been built, reminded us both of
the Black Mesa of New Mexico, near Santa Fe. One who
has seen Sigiriya will not, I think, easily forget it. This
remarkable rock is an amazing sight, especially when
one remembers that away back in the fifth century a
king built his palace on its summit! The immensity of
the labor ! Present-day engineers say it must have been
one of the greatest engineering feats in all history. Yet
here this king lived in state, with his zenana, his
courtiers, his elephant stables, governing his people for
eighteen years. Of course there was reason, in the olden
days, for a monarch thus to protect himself from his
enemies. Most of them chose a place for their palaces
as nearly impregnable as possible. This particular king,
it seems, had committed a great crime and was in con-
stant fear of being murdered. Well — to my modern eyes
this looks like a safe spot ! How anyone would ever have
the courage to climb to the top even to be revenged on
one's enemy is beyond my comprehension !
The Rose-colored Throne
In the center of the palace is a wonderful rose-colored
throne from which this king (Kasyapa was his name)
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 109
dispensed justice. What a farce for a man who had the
black sin of murder on his own heart (he had killed either
his father or his brother, I do not remember which) to
sit there day after day, trembling in fear of his own life
and administering justice to those not half so guilty as
himself ! One day, however, so the story goes, he became
either tired or reckless and descended from his lofty
domain for a short time — only a few hours. His enemies
had waited for this very thing. They surrounded and
killed him.
Even the height to which I had climbed presented a
wonderful view of the jungle, a charming thing to look
upon, with its carpet of green (the purest green we had
seen with the exception of that of Brazil), and difficult
to see beyond its beautiful scenery the man-eating tigers
and other wild beasts which infest it. We were caught
here in a tropical rain. One who has never experienced
such can form no idea of the sheets of water with which
we were drenched. Of course, a little episode such as
this did not trouble us. For we had travelled either in
clouds of blinding dust or wallowed in sloughs of mud !
Wild Men of Ceylon
At Anuradahapura we were as close as we ever got
(and it was close enough !) to that section of Ceylon where
the really wild men dwell. As one goes about the world
no All the Way 'Round
he will still find many places where these people still live,
but in so small an island as Ceylon, one so well-inhabited
and so thoroughly cultivated, it would seem as though
these wild creatures could be tamed. But I am told that
the few who have been captured and forcibly detained
have not warranted the attempt to civilize them. The
experiment has never been satisfactory. Our civilization,
seemingly holds no appeal whatsoever to them. These
tribes to which I refer live in trees. They swing from
limb to limb, like monkeys, and they live on the forest
products as other wild creatures do. The greatest bar to
civilization is their unreasonable fear of civilized man.
Even those living nearest to them catch a glimpse of them
very seldom.
Back in our delightful hotel in Colombo we rested for
two days preparatory to taking the steamer. I have
failed to mention that bubonic plague, cholera and small-
pox are so common in this country that we encountered
them wherever we went. We learned here that all steam-
ers were compelling prospective passengers to be vacci-
nated for smallpox. Before leaving the United States
we had been vaccinated at the same time that we took
the typhoid serum, but we had failed to bring the certifi-
cates which, of course, were now required. We thought,
therefore, that this beautiful Ceylon, so up-to-date and
clean, would be a good place to go to the English hospital
and be vaccinated. The experience was unique. Never
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 111
shall either of us forget it! We found at the English
hospital one English nurse and no English doctor ! The
physicians were all natives! The fact that they had
studied medicine in England did not make them English.
We found the head man and stated our wish. He told us
that all the vaccine was obtained from the same place and
that it would be three days before he could get any that
was fresh. He added, however, that if we ourselves would
go to headquarters we could be vaccinated there in ten
minutes. We decided to do this. In our presence he
called the man in authority there by telephone and made
arrangements for us to come. When we arrived we found
there a perfect horde of people, ill of every sort of disease.
They were being inoculated for bubonic plague, cholera
and heaven knows what other loathsome sickness. The
man whom we were to see was nowhere to be found. The
attendants assured us that he had not appeared at head-
quarters at all that day and that they themselves had
been there since early morning. But they were most
anxious to vaccinate us !
The Man of Mystery
We decided not to take a chance on being inoculated
for either bubonic plague or cholera — which chance,
under existing conditions, seemed unusually good ! Back
we went to the hospital. Again we interviewed the man
112 All the Way 'Round
in charge, and again, in our presence, he called up the
individual at headquarters. The latter (we could easily
hear the voice through the telephone) assured us that he
was there and was awaiting us. To headquarters we
therefore returned — only to have the whole performance
repeated ! Again the attendants assured us that the offi-
cial had not been there all day, that this was the only
telephone in the house and had not rung at all. But —
again they eagerly offered to vaccinate us ! Very much
disgusted not only at their deception but their obvious
inefficiency we decided to betake ourselves elsewhere. So
we left without their attention. And I am still asking
myself questions in regard to the episode. Who was the
man of mystery 1 Whose voice did we hear through the
telephone I With us the point was that we were en route
for China which country would not receive us without
this formality being attended to. However, there were
other places where it could be done before we reached
China. We decided to seek one of them.
Among the very interesting things to be seen in Ceylon
one must not forget to mention the waiters at the hotel.
They wore very long hair, fastened up with large circular
combs having two points in front. The combs are of
tortoise shell and very handsome. The points curve out-
ward in front giving an unusual, crown-like effect. This
was at the Galle Face hotel in Colombo, and the peculiarity
reminds me of a story quite as interesting.
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 113
Crows as Pilferers
In all foreign travel one must carry one's own soap.
Never being able to get accustomed to this, I had several
times in the Orient found myself just ready to step into
a warm comfortable bath only to discover that there was
no soap. This determined me to carry in each and every
one of our several pieces of baggage a piece of soap. On
my third morning in Colombo I discovered that my third
piece of soap was missing. Petty thieving is so common
a trait and so annoying that I called the chambermaid
(who, by the way is always a /ie-chambermaid !) to remon-
strate against this wholesale theft and to demand the
restoration of my third piece of soap! Awaiting his
arrival I made another discovery. My powder and powder
box were also missing, and in the culprit's eagerness to
get away he had spilled a lot of it on the floor. This was
too much ! When the native boy arrived I began reading
him a lecture. And it was not an extemporaneous speech
either. It had been carefully prepared! Imagine my
astonishment and wrath when he calmly denied that he
had touched my belongings. Exasperated at his calmness
and his denial I demanded, "Well, who did take them
then? " He replied, " The crows ! "
I could not believe him, but leading me to the window
he proved himself innocent. There on the roof below
lay my powder puff, soap and various other of my toilet
accessories which these dishonest birds had stolen. I was
114 All the Way 'Round
told afterward that they are the cleverest of thieves. As
they never have screens at the windows in these countries,
they can come in and go out at their pleasure. The only
protection the guests have is provided by small boys who,
stationed outside the windows, attempt to keep them away
with bows and arrows. A short time after the episode
of the powder and soap, while seated on the lawn having
tea, one of these feathered criminals pounced down, picked
up the napin, sandwiches, et ah, and flew away with them !
On another occasion I was lying in bed enjoying my chota-
hazri when I heard a peculiar whirring noise just back
of me. Turning I observed a crow perched upon a chair
in my room. Had I not been tucked in under a mosquito
netting (which we always used) I should have been more
frightened than I was at this large, gray-black bird. It
looked so enviously at my breakfast that I shrieked and
my husband, laughing heartily at my predicament and my
fears, came to the rescue and put it out. The crow of
Ceylon is a nuisance. It is altogether too friendly and
there are too many of them! One simply cannot get
rid of them.
Viewing the Toddy Palms
There are beautiful places to be seen out of Colombo
and we made several very interesting excursions. One
of these was to Kaltura, about thirty miles by motor.
To reach it we rode through colorful bazaars, picturesque
villages, forests of mahogany and teak-wood. I think
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 115
no excursion that we took, and they were many, showed
more characteristic Singalese scenery than this. We
skirted the water. We went through the jungle where
the toddy palms were plentiful. The latter, by the way,
is to be found in India, Ceylon and Burma. And the
toddy made from it is real! One sees many small jars,
or pots, on many of the trees to catch the sap. The natives
love it, and as it is very intoxicating of course they misuse
it. But the tree itself which furnished this (to them)
delicious drink is a very- beautiful member of the palm
family. At Kaltura we visited also the school of basket-
making. Here were thousands of beautiful Ceylon bas-
kets in every shape and size — also hats of all kinds.
They formed a perfect riot of color and we could not help
purchasing a few. We had a personal interest in visiting
Kaltura. My husband's father had often spoken of the
delicious mangosteens he had eaten here. We hoped to
be able to get some, but although we found the identical
tree from which his were gathered (they claimed to re-
member his visit !) we got no fruit. The season was over.
On our return we stopped for tiffin at Mount Lavinia,
a popular bathing-beach picturesquely situated among
the rocks, the chief claim of which is its freedom from
the man-eating sharks which infest the Indian Ocean.
Many w T ere bathing and enjoying the waters. Most of the
beaches of Ceylon are known, however, as about the most
dangerous spots on earth because of the sea monsters
116 All the Way 'Round
already referred to. I, for one, could not be induced to
try it, although it looks innocent and enticing enough and
the wonderful color of the water in all the southern oceans
makes bathing in them alluring. The waters are either
vividly blue, green or steel. They look as if they were
painted.
Priests Who Wear Beards
Mount Lavinia hotel is perched upon a high hill and
is really a lovely spot. I was interested in the appearance
of the Catholic priests on the island. They were dressed
in spotless white and wore long beards, contrary to cus-
tom. However, this is for a purpose. They find it neces-
sary to protect their throats from the dampness. I talked
with one who had not left the island for twenty years.
He was the picture of health and told me that he had never
been ill. He was a Frenchman. Not all of them can say
as much. Most of them admit that this climate is too hot
to remain in it long without a change. I met missionaries
of other churches also. They, too, are enthusiastic as to
the devotion of the natives when once they are converted
to a Christian faith. I went to Mass one day here at which
there were hundreds and hundreds of devout natives.
But the priest and I were the only two white people in the
church.
Ever since coming to India my husband and I had
been searching for the Southern Cross which we had seen
and adored in South America. We had not succeeded,
Ceylon; Temple of Sacred Tooth 117
however, in seeing it. Either it was below the horizon or
else it rose later than we wished to sit up. But one wake-
ful night at Kandy, looking out over the beautiful little
lake on which the Temple of the Sacred Tooth is situated,
we caught sight of it. With its four brilliant stars and
its fifth faintly pale but distinctly visible this jeweled
cross was unmistakable. It was splendidly brilliant. Its
two glorious pointers, twin stars even more brilliant than
the cross itself, were lying close to it. The astral triangle
above, the false cross close at hand, there they lay — these
three wonderful crosses for us to admire. It was a never-
to-be-forgotten sight. Having discovered them we never
again lost sight of them. We watched for them eagerly
each evening until we were well up into China.
CHAPTER X
FROM RANGOON TO MANDALAY
WE TOOK an English steamer for Rangoon, Burma
— a boat of a line of which we had never heard in
America, the Bibby Line. They certainly were nice to
us. This lovely, clean boat, with a delightful party of
people aboard, had not a vacant berth on its return trip
to England. But going from Ceylon to Rangoon the list
was far from full. There were many vacant cabins, and
although we were paying for but one the captain insisted
on our making use of two adjoining ones. This we did,
thus enjoying our five days' water trip to the fullest. The
sailors were Lascars, dressed in white, with red sashes.
They went about in bare feet and the boat drill was most
picturesque. I always have at sea a little feeling of un-
easiness, due to the reflection that there is between me and
eternity only a small plank ! But down here in the white
foamy waters of the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal,
with a steady boat, I managed to forget it and thoroughly
enjoy the sail. At night, when we looked for our three
Crosses we found added to them the Big Dipper and the
North Star — the first time we had seen them all together
since we had left South America, five years before.
A Country of Glorious Scenery
Burma lies to the east of the Bay of Bengal. It touches
China on one side and has Siam on the other. Her great
118
From Rangoon to Mandalay 119
river, the Irrawaddy, has its head stream in Thibet and
is navigable for about nine hundred miles. It has superb
scenery, and it was one of our great desires to travel on
it a bit, but we were doomed to disappointment. Between
catching steamers (which run irregularly), making trains
and avoiding the more infested districts of cholera and
plague, we were obliged to give it up. We saw the great
river, therefore, only from Rangoon and Mandalay. The
forests of Burma are celebrated for their fine trees, and
although we had seen flowering trees all through the
Orient none could equal the beautiful bloom of those of
this country. Such masses of flowers! Such glorious
color ! The henna shades were many and beautiful. The
pinks, purples, reds, yellows were innumerable. Every
conceivable shade, it seemed, was born between the leaves
of the Burmese trees. We sat at the car windows, riding
through the rather flat country, and fairly reveled in their
beauty. The soil here is said to be very fertile, requiring
little or no manure. Rice, tobacco, sugar cane — these
grow in large quantities, and of course here, as in India,
we saw quantities of chili being dried. Carpets of bril-
liant red or yellow, depending on the length of the drying
of the peppers, would loom up in the villages as the train
drew near, making bright patches of color in the land-
scape.
The quality and beauty of the Burmese silks are too
well known to need more than mere mention. Never have
120 All the Way 'Bound
I dreamed of finer, more lustrous and beautiful ones than
we saw in Rangoon and Mandalay. They tell us there
that they never wear out. Well, I am going to test that
statement, as I bought some lovely ones to bring home
with me. The Burmese are short and thickly built. The
men wear long hair, and they resemble the Chinese. Men
and women alike dress handsomely, wearing the finest
silks and gayest colors. Most of them — eighty per cent,
I believe — are Buddhists, and nearly all of them are
superstitious. They worship Nats — the spirits of the
mountain forests. The Burman does this to avert mis-
fortune, and he always makes a thank-offering to these
Nats upon the birth of a child or at a wedding feast.
The monks are the schoolmasters of this country and
are held in great veneration. In 1824 the British govern-
ment declared war on Burma and though the Burmese
fought hard they were conquered. Still, until 1878 the
kings of Burma were permitted to govern — of course
under British restrictions. In this latter year, however,
the king, Minden, died. His son, Theebaw, succeeded him.
But he was lax in his administration and showed hostility
toward the English. No remonstrance from the govern-
ment had any weight with him. He declined to change his
policy. Finally, after many unsatisfactory episodes in
which the English suffered, and a long series of happen-
ings disagreeable to the Burmese themselves, the Indian
government decided to interfere. They sent word to the
From Rangoon to Mandalay 121
king, who was living at Mandalay, to treat their repre-
sentatives with more respect. Theebaw's answer was to
call all his own people together and ask them to rid him
of the English. The result was that in November, 1885,
the British went to Mandalay and without trouble took it.
The king and his wicked adviser, Queen Supaya Lat, were
sent to Rangoon and afterward to India where they lived ;
he died in exile, his death occurring at a little place near
Bombay in December, 1916.
As yet Burma is visited little by the tourist. Travel-
ing is rather primitive except on the main railroad. Ex-
cept in Mandalay and Rangoon there are literally no
hotels. When the tourist leaves the main line of railroad
or steamer he must get the government to put him up in
some bungalow it owns. And these dak bungalows are
certainly primitive, just a bed, a chair and a tub. One
carries his own bedding and cooking utensils.
The pagodas and monasteries are, of course, the chief
things of interest. The former nearly always have a ti
(the sacred umbrella) over them. The Pengyi (priest)
dwells in a little building called a monastery, but it is
usually only one story high and built of teak-wood. It
would be an indignity to a holy monk to have some one
over his head.
The approach to Rangoon is considered a very danger-
ous one. The rapid current of the Irrawaddy contributes
to this largely. An average of at least one man is the
122 All the Way 'Round
toll of death per day. We were told that for two nights
before entering Rangoon the captain never sleeps. I find
in this statement a splendid Irishism! Would the lack
of sleep be for the safety or the danger of those entrusted
to his care? In order to reach Rangoon we crossed the
Irrawaddy with pilots and went up another small river
for about thirty-five miles. It was frightfully hot, and
the usual red tape connected with the customs prolonged
our entry for several hours.
A Domestic Tragedy
During this long delay I amused myself watching a
young couple in whom I had become interested on the
boat. He was a good-looking, very fair-skinned Burman
belonging to a family which owned rich and enormous rice
fields. He was about twenty-five or six. He had been
educated in England and was returning to his own coun-
try accompanied by a very pretty little wife (she looked
not more than twenty) and a handsome child of about two
years. When he told her that he came of a family of
wealth he had not deceived her. This was true. But —
all his people were at the wharf to meet them and the
change which came over her face when she saw them was
pitiful. I shall never forget it. For they were not white,
these Burmans ! And she was quite unprepared for the
contempt which she was now to find bestowed upon them
by those of the white race ! They all greeted her affection-
From Rangoon to Mandalay 123
ately. But she was in despair. Her husband had solemn-
ly promised to take her back to England in three years,
but, his father having died, he was obliged to remain
in his own country for that length of time. When in a
moment of confidence, and longing for sympathy, she
told me that she did not know how she could endure the
experience of staying here for that length of time, I
advised her to interest herself in the problems of her
husband's country — to foster a movement for the better-
ment of woman here, and to interest herself in kindred
lines of thought. In doing so, I asured her, the time would
pass much more quickly. She brightened and thanked
me and promised to take my advice. Ten days later, how-
ever, friends who had seen her since I had, told me that
she was in a deplorable state — that the very hot hours
of the day in Rangoon when all the family clustered
around her (really attempting to be nice to her) were
to her the most trying things on earth. She was becoming
hopeless in the face of it all. I hope and pray that ere this
she may have regained her poise and that she finds herself
equal to her difficult task. Poor woman, I know no better
example of the tragedy of the marriages (and they are
many) which take place between white women and men
of the Asiatic race.
When we landed in Rangoon, the British capital of
lower Burma and the city so celebrated for its famous
pagoda, the Shwe-Dagon, we were quite thrilled, and of
124 All the Way 'Round
course our first visit was to it. Here we met, however,
with another great disappointment. The priest who met
us informed us that if we wished to go through it we
must do so barefooted. We declined. With leprosy and
cancer all through these hot countries, with the bubonic
plague right in Rangoon and with various other horrible
and unmentionable diseases to be contracted we refused
to remove our shoes and stockings. Hookworm, very
prevalent in India, by the way, is another delightful thing
easily contracted through the feet, and so, despite the
fact that we had longed for a sight of the Golden Pagoda
of Rangoon all our lives we decided to be wise and
forego it.
This rule in regard to the bare feet, I might add, is
but a recent one. It is not one of the ancient customs. It
is due to the silliness of an English lord who became so
enthusiastic over the pagoda that he pulled off his shoes
and stockings and walked through it in his bare feet to do
it honor. Since this act — only a few months have elapsed
— the native priests have made it an iron-clad rule. Hence
our disappointment.
Relics of Gautama
The Shwe-Dagon is the finest, the most venerable and
the most universally visited pagoda in Indo-China. Its
peculiar sanctity is due to the fact that not only are there
actual relics of Gautama there but also of the three
A Holy Man, Rangoon
Golden Pagoda, Rangoon
m>9*
Great Bell at the Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay
Burmese women at prayer, Arakan Pagoda, Mandalay
From Rangoon to Mandalay 125
Buddhas who preceded him. For this reason it attracts
countless pilgrims from all parts of the world. They
flock here from Cambodia, from Siam, from Korea and
Ceylon. When we saw the lepers in every state of that
terrible disease, even with toes and fingers eaten off by it,
and when we viewed all the other loathsome diseases
which can so easily be caught we were not sorry that we
passed it by, although friends of ours did go through and
seemed to feel that they had run no risk ! Yet — it takes
an hour and a half to walk around the interior ! Nothing
could have induced me to do it in bare feet. Three hun-
dred and ten steps have to be climbed. Think of all the
people who have climbed them ! The pagoda is two thou-
sand or more years old, has vast treasures in jewels and
is said to contain several of Gautama's hairs. It stands
on a hill and its superb golden tower, three hundred and
seventy feet high, easily dominates everything in Ran-
goon.
The tower is bell-shaped and has the ti, or sacred
umbrella, in gold at the top. It is constantly being re-
gilded. A year or so ago an enterprising Burmese lady
of wealth, contributing largely toward the regilding, sug-
gested that the tower should be gold plated. This, of
course, will be most expensive but when done will last for-
ever. Her suggestion has been adopted, and all the con-
tributions received are being put into a common fund
for this purpose. Up to date it has been finished to the
126 All the Way 'Round
extent of eight feet, beginning at the top. The interior
is a magnificent sight by day. When lighted it is just
like fairyland. Row upon row of lights encircle the tower,
also, and as one drives about the park in which it stands
it is always in view. The base of the tower is on a plat-
form about eight hundred feet square. From a distance,
when the sun is upon the tower, it looks like a mountain
of gold.
All Must Pass Through Priesthood
Every Burman, rich and poor, prince and pauper alike,
must pass through the priesthood. Therefore one sees
many young boys, dressed in the two shades of yellow
affected by the Buddhist priests, picturesque and orna-
mental. They mingle harmoniously with the riotous
shades of crimson and blue which the women wear. The
priests shave the head and I believe they live on alms.
These little yellow-robed boys go about from house to
house with their rice pots, begging food. The novitiate
is from one to three years. The Poonghees are very much
respected for their holy calling and they seem to be at
least a third of the population.
Burma is a country of pagodas — thousands upon
thousands of them. They pop up upon the landscape
every few minutes. I could not understand the necessity
for so many until it was explained to me that a man who
builds a pagoda is bound to be saved! There are said
to be twenty-five thousand within a few miles of the Irra-
From Rangoon to Mandalay 127
waddy river. The man who gives the money to bnild one
is regarded as holy, and is promised that in transmigra-
tion he shall escape from any loathsome and degraded
form. Naturally, therefore, everyone wishes to build
one, large or small as the case may be.
One of the sights here was that of the elephants at
work in the timber yards. This is remarkable. They
draw the logs, often three feet in diameter and forty feet
long. A man sits on top of the elephants with a stick
with which he prods them and by this prodding they are
guided in their movements. Huge and ungainly in ap-
pearance as they are they step daintily among and over
the logs, placing their feet carefully. They never slip.
Another Interesting Pagoda
Next to the Shwe-Dagon the Sule Pagoda is of great-
est interest. The former was built in 588 B. C. But the
latter also attracts attention and as it was near our hotel
we spent much time examining its curious shrines. There
is another of these numerous pagodas of which I find that
I have not recorded the name. But it has a huge reclining
Buddha in front of it, so large that the cavity of the ear
can accommodate three persons. Thousands visit this
Buddha every month. The monasteries of Burma are
numerous, too, and the shops wonderful, the native handi-
craft of silver, curious bead work and silks being unusual-
ly interesting. Also, every tree common to Burma is
128 All the Way 'Round
found in the lovely gardens of Rangoon, and here we spent
a delightful afternoon with a friend who is a well-known
writer — Warren Hastings Miller. He was writing at
that time a story the scene of which was laid in Rangoon,
and he had come to Burma for color. He certainly got it.
We all did. He was so well informed upon the subject
of the trees and flowers that it was a delight to listen
while he talked and explained them.
As I have said, we saw the Shwe-Dagon only from
without. At the entrance are two gigantic leogryphs —
queer looking objects resembling colossal lions. On the
other side of the entrance is the usual sight — a line of
beggars, horrible creatures suffering from the terrible
diseases rampant throughout the country — up the flight
of steps little shops, a bazaar where they sell the gold
leaf to plaster the gods with and curios for the pilgrims.
The platform, we were told, is never deserted. Long after
midnight the pilgrims still pray there. On feast days it
is a joyous crowd, in their gay national dress, youths and
maidens singing — one of the finest sights in the world.
Burmese are Gay
To one who has been touring India the sight of the
gay, light-hearted Burmese comes as a great relief — a
strong contrast to the depressed and oppressed Indian.
One is instantly struck with the change. These people
are cheerful, happy, contented-looking. They have not
From Rangoon to Mandalay 129
that hopelessness of expression that one sees constantly
in India. The women are very pretty, some actually
beautiful. They are yellowish of tint, not dark, and both
men and women are handsome. They are self-possessed,
yet without boldness, graceful and easy of deportment.
They certainly are good to look at. They have magnif-
icent hair, long, black, thick and glossy and from the
rear one cannot tell whether one is looking at a man or a
woman. The dress of the woman is different from that
of the man, but from a distance this is not noticeable. Her
garment is a strip of cotton or silk reaching from the
waist to the ankles wrapped around her figure and girded
at the waist. About her bust she has another strip and a
scarf fastened over one shoulder and falling under the
other so that she can spread it at will. The coolie class
cut their hair. The tamein is nearly always a brilliant
red. No matter what other colors it may contain there
is always a predominance of red. The women are coquet-
tish, often wearing flowers in their hair. The men are said
to be the laziest on earth. Perhaps this accounts for their
good nature! It is said that their long adherence to
Buddhism has schooled them to a life of idleness, that
their days are so peaceful and quiet that they are never
ill-tempered. Whatever the explanation they work only
occasionally. They plant their paddy-fields (rice), cover
them with water and then there is nothing else for them
to do until the harvest. When the man gathers his crop
130 All the Way 'Round
— the only time when he works with energy — he again
returns to his time-honored custom of just basking idly
in the sun. And deadly as the tropical sun is to a white
man it troubles the native not at all. The women, how-
ever, have the reputation of being very industrious. She
gets the meals, cares for the children, waits on the little
shop and is never in purdah as her Indian sisters are.
In most cases she is decidedly the boss of the household
— as she should be. She wears all the jewelry she can
possibly afford, her fingers and ankles and toes are simply
covered with it.
CHAPTER XI
A NEW " SEPTEMBER MORN ;" BURMA ; A BURMESE WEDDING
IT IS a joy to see the world. But it certainly makes
one appreciate one's own America and one's own
Chicago !
Our ride from Rangoon to Mandalay was from five
o'clock one afternoon to one-thirty the next — a dusty
and for the most part uninteresting ride through a flat
country. But the flowering trees in Burma are things
to dream of and they were plentiful along the route.
They are as large as our southern magnolias or big live
oaks, and when they burst into bloom, with all the luxuri-
ance of the tropics, there really could not be a more won-
derful sight. The differently-colored birds rest in them,
their vivid plumage of green, blue and yellow making a
striking picture, and everywhere, by the thousand, one
sees the egret. This latter is a bird very much like our
white heron — in fact, I thought it at first a small heron.
Wherever one sees the buffalo one will see also the egret,
although the contrast between the filth of the former and
the snow-whiteness of the latter is startling. The buffalo
delights to wallow in a muddy stream, and both buffalo
and muddy stream are plentiful in Burma.
It does not rain here from November to May. Hence
the dustiness of our ride. As to the heat, it was so great
131
132 All the Way 'Round
that we were obliged to have the windows open and the
punkahs going. The night on the hard benches — remem-
ber that there are no beds or sleeping cars in this coun-
try — we are not likely to forget. Kipling's poem has
made Mandalay famous, but the traveler will always be
disappointed if he expects to find it as Kipling described
it! Still, it is full of interest. The sight of the seven
hundred and thirty pagodas is alone worth the visit.
These pagodas are small and were built by the king,
Theebaw, to preserve the sacred slabs of Sanskrit from
the weather. It is not only curious but a very pretty
sight as one walks among them.
Women Lead as Smokers
The women with their coal black hair dressed high
in a round, turban effect are stunning. But they look
so funny smoking their enormous cheroots! For, as I
have said, the women all smoke. The largest cigar a
man ever used is small in comparison with the Burmese
lady's cheroot! Earrings are worn a great deal, and I
saw one women pass who wore a thimble in her ear !
Mandalay inhabitants are nearly all Burmese. In
Rangoon the Hindu prevails. It seemed to me quite
curious, that here in Burma they called the Hindus natives,
while they referred to the Burmese as Burmese. Man-
dalay's palaces and temples are rapidly falling to pieces.
They are built mainly of teak-wood and are handsomely
A palace, Mandalay
Grounds of a palace, Mandala}
Entrance to a palace, Mandalay
Burma; A Burmese Wedding 133
carved. Even in their decay, however, they are most
beautiful, especially the palace of the queen. It is a mass
of exquisite wood carving. Once the figures were all
gilded, but now the gold is mostly worn away. There
is a lavish richness about these buildings which catches
the attention and makes it hard to forget them. They
have in Mandalay a wonderful bazaar near which is the
large pagoda. This bazaar, the Zegyo, was perhaps the
most interesting of any that we saw. The lustrous Bur-
mese silks, celebrated the world over, were here in large
quantities as well as much beautiful and artistic handi-
craft. The interest was heightened by the fact that
here were gathered all the tribes from the surround-
ing countries, come to sell their native wares. Even
from China they had come. Squatted in their small
stalls they were as varied a gathering of strange, queer
and in some cases wild people as could easily be found.
We felt here that we were really in the heart of Burma.
Putting Up at a Bungalow
There are no hotels in Mandalay. We occupied one
of the dak bungalows to which I have already referred,
run by the government for travelers in towns and cities
where there are no hotels. Our rooms contained bed and
mattress, wardrobe and chair and a large tub for bath-
ing, nothing else — except a mosquito bar! Our own
bedding we carried with us, of necessity. Our own serv-
134 All the Way 'Bound
ant waited upon us at table. At the dak bungalow one
man is provided. But he cooks, nothing else. Still, we
managed fairly well. One soon learns not to expect
luxuries in traveling through India and Burma.
The Arakan pagoda at Mandalay is very interesting.
It is said to be (after the great pagoda at Rangoon) the
most beloved and venerated in Burma. The colossal sit-
ting Buddha (Gautama) is a wonder, and as usual all
the worshippers were salaaming and making offerings
before it. One form of offering is to buy gold leaf to
paste on the image. We always pay a bit toward this
as a sort of entrance fee. We watched our bit of gold
leaf put on, and we were told that this enormous figure
was already plastered five and a half inches deep ! These
poor fanatics! They certainly give generously!
Threatened by Fanatics
I had in Mandalay an experience which I shall not
soon forget. There is usually a little bazaar in front of
a pagoda where the natives have things for sale. Two
Americans, Mr. and Mrs. W — from our dak bungalow
were with us, and we wandered along while they were
buying some things. Continuing through the bazaar I
was attracted by a pretty young woman, her good-looking
husband, and their baby about two years old. They were
seated, or squatted, rather, on a mat in front of their
wares, eating rice. The rice bowls were in front of them,
Burma; A Burmese Wedding 135
and they were eating the rice with their fingers. The
baby, following the example of his elders, was dipping
his hand in also, eating as they were. He was a cunning
thing and I stopped to look at him. He remained in that
position, not moving his hand. The man and woman
smiled at me and continued eating, but the baby remained
immovable. Suddenly I realized that he was frightened.
He let out a yell and burst into sobs. The mother, still
laughing, picked him up. I apologized, said I was sorry
(which she probably did not understand) and moved
away. The child continued to cry.
My husband said " I will call our friends. Wait for
me here." As I turned I saw two Buddhist priests look-
ing at me. They were not six feet away, and if ever I
saw hostile glances they gave them. I called to my better
half " Look at these men ! " He did look. " You cannot
remain here alone, " he said. " We will find our friends. "
The priests began talking excitedly. The child continued
to cry. At last we saw our friends approaching. The
child's parents seemed not to mind, but these priests —
there was no doubt that they were furious and were dis-
cussing me.
Our guide took in the situation, hastened up to them
and after a few moments' conversation the priests turned
sullenly away. He said they were very angry, said that
I had frightened the child by means of the evil eye ! But
they calmed down when he assured them that we were
136 All the Way 'Round
American and not English. Had we been English I am
confident that my time would have been up. I did not
know then what my husband had seen printed in the dak
bungalow — a warning to be careful in all temples, as the
priests were hostile and likely to make trouble for the
slightest offense. Nor had I then heard the story of a
young Englishman who, a few weeks previous, was walk-
ing quietly through one of the temples when a native
praying sprang to his feet with a long knife (which they
all carry) and cut off his nose. It is the priests who are
making all the trouble in Burma, and it is my belief that
there will be much more of it before there is less.
The Story of "September Morn"
We were glad to leave Mandalay. During the twenty-
four hours of our stay there were forty-eight deaths from
bubonic plague — two for every hour. In the short time
that we stayed we managed to crowd a good deal of
experience. After the Arakan Pagoda and the bazaar we
went to the Ma Kim's for purchases. She was lady-in-
waiting to the queen, Supaya Lat, and her husband was
high commissioner to the king, Theebaw. Ma Kim was
elderly now, and was selling her possessions — all the
jewels which the queen had given her and various other
treasures, that she, now a widow, might retire to a nun-
nery. We had made an appointment to visit her shop,
but we were detained and she had decided that we were
Entrance to the Queen's Golden Detail, Queen's Golden Mon-
Monastery. Mandalay astery, Mandalay
Queen's Golden Monastery, Alandalay
Burma; A Burmese Wedding 137
not coming. So she had begun her bath, preparatory to
eating. This bath was in the fountain in the center of
the yard in the rear, and she was perfectly visible from
the store when we entered. This yellowish-tinted lady,
with gray hair streaming, was a perfect September
Morn! Embarrassed? Not that one could notice. "We
were the ones who were fussed, that is, / was. I turned
away. But my husband, I am sorry to relate, asked the
guide to ascertain if she would permit him to photo-
graph her. I was horrified. Ma Kim was not. She con-
sented at once. So the former Mayor of Chicago brought
back with him the picture of a second September Morn —
a little darker of tint than the much-talked-of original
but very attractive.
Ma Kim was a very interesting old lady. After she
dressed and came into the shop she showed us the beauties
it contained, and they were many. We bought all that
our purse would permit, amber beads and silver orna-
ments which the queen herself had often worn. As we
returned I saw a man and woman chained together, going
under guard to prison. It looked awful. They seemed
just like two poor beasts. They were accused of murder
and probably deserved what they were getting. But I
was on the alert for all in this country which concerns
women. And I had never before seen a woman chained !
As we were driving through the streets of Mandalay
one morning on the way from one bazaar to another, our
138 All the Way 'Round
Moslem guide who was cocked up heside the driver (look-
ing for all the world like a bearded monkey !) brought the
gharry to a sudden halt. Sweet strains of minstrelsy
were floating from an upper window. He proceeded to
investigate. In a few moments he brought word that a
Burmese wedding was in progress and that we might
take a peek if we so desired. As we entered the lower
floor (a shop which had been given over to the festivities
of the day) the guide announced us as Americans. At
once a young, well-dressed Burmese stepped forward
to greet us. With a smile and a wave of the hand toward
the stairway he invited us in good English to ascend to
the upper floor, where the real festivities were in prog-
ress, assuring us of a hearty welcome at the wedding of
his sister.
At the head of the stairs we met the father and mother
of the bride to whom we were presented, and then passed
into a rear room where the bride was squatting in the
center of a group of four girls, all gowned in the finest
of Burmese brocaded silks of the brightest and richest
hues. The wedding bed, hung with silks as draperies and
decked with silken coverings (even the pillow cases were
gorgeous), presented all the hues of the rainbow. At the
front of the upper floor was a large room where the main
guests foregathered. At this hour of the day — it was
about noon — there were only women present, but we were
told that at about four o'clock the men would follow the
Burma; A Burmese Wedding 139
groom and then the real ceremony would take place.
A Scene of Beauty
There were six lines of women, young and old, in this
room and I counted sixteen in each line. A few scattered
(not in line) brought the number to about a hundred.
The color here was a marvel, for these were the rich
people of Mandalay and they were dressed in the finest
silks for which that district is famous. Mandalay is in
the very heart of the Burmese silk-weaving industry.
Every color was represented, from the most delicate to
the most garish, from the softest of pinks, yellows, blues
and violets to rich magentas, scarlets, and greens that
almost hurt the eyes. No sunset that I ever saw could
match the combination for sheer beauty of contrast in
tones. Not only were the women wearing their finest
apparel. They wore also all the jewelry allowed by the
laws and ordinances of the province. Arms and wrists
were fairly weighted down with golden armlets and brace-
lets. Fingers were decked with all fashions of rings*.
Around their necks were all manner of be jeweled gee-
gaws, in their ears rings containing the most glittering
stones. There were diamonds as large as birds' eggs
which, in spite of their outlandish cutting, flashed with a
splendor truly oriental.
In front of each woman stood a small table of teak-
wood with embossed silver trays and dishes filled with
140 All the Way 'Round
sweets, candied fruits, tidbits and fanciful dainties. At
the door leading into this room sat three attractive girls
each with a large, heavily-embossed silver bowl on her
lap. One was filled with pink roses, a second with fans,
and the third held cheroots made in cigarette fashion but
too huge to pass by that name. They were at least eight
inches long and close to an inch in diameter. Each woman
as she entered was handed a rose, a fan and a cheroot.
And she promptly made use of all of them !
Some Memorable Music
This second floor of the house was divided into three
sections, though there were no permanent partitions.
Perhaps in ordinary times each room was separated from
its neighbor by movable partitions, in Japanese fashion.
Between the rear room, where sat the bride and her at-
tendants, and the large front room where Mandalay's
high society had foregathered in a very riot of kaleido-
scopic color was a central chamber, a sort of reception
room where stood the parents of the bride to welcome
each new arrival, to show them first the room where they
might congratulate the happy maiden, then to the room
where they might gossip with acquaintances while filling
their tummies with sweets and their lungs with the fumes
of cheroots. At the front sat the three girls who doled
out the roses, fans, and cheroots. On one side were placed
four chairs which we occupied as chief guests. On the
Burma; A Burmese Wedding 141
far side sat the musicians of whom there were four. A
tiny piano-like instrument was played by an artist who
tapped the keys apparently as the spirit moved him.
Perhaps he followed some line of oriental harmonies, but
to a tyro in musical matters like myself he seemed to play
a game of musical hit or miss, utterly regardless of con-
sequences.
It was oftener miss than hit. What he did to the
muse of music was a crime! Another artist played an
accordeon of the octagonal-ended species (not the oblong-
ended breed) in an equally happy-go-lucky spirit. A third
coaxed dulcet harmonies from a flute, and his efforts
really approached what we benighted Caucasians are in-
clined to regard as real music. The fourth musician was
a serious-minded Burmese over whose head sixty odd
summer and winters had flitted without his being rendered
permanently hors de combat by cholera, enteric, smallpox
or bubonic. His was the star performance. In front of
him he had laid a small section of the giant bamboo,
perhaps a quarter of the entire trunk cut out of the log
between knots, leaving the ends open. It lay on the floor
with the hollow underneath. In his left hand he held a
short hardwood stick, probably a piece of pyingado, said
to be harder than railroad iron. On the thumb and fore-
finger of the right hand were two tiny, silver, bell-shaped
affairs. From time to time he lifted his voice in song.
A Burmese crow rather than a Caruso had been taken as
142 All the Way 'Round
a model for his vocal accomplishments. Singing the
equivalent of three or four lines of an English poem he
would pause to give the bamboo stick a resounding whack.
Then with a most coquettish, coy, kittenish, mincing
manner he would tinkle the silver bells, the notes of which,
as might be expected, being quite lost, drowned out by
piano, accordeon and flute — a fact which bothered him
not a whit. Evidently, to his way of thinking the tinkle-
tinkle of those bells was the most important part of the
entire musical program.
This wedding had made us forget for a brief time the
distressing things which constantly confronted us. One
of these is the nightly processions begging the gods for
mercy and protection from the cholera, the smallpox, and
the plague, all of which were raging. They kill a goat
and sprinkle its blood in the infected districts. While
in Rangoon we were only two blocks from one of these
districts. We have seen the processions. They jangle
bells, play music on their queer flutes, sing and carry
banners. We knew the risks when we came and so did
not worry. But I was glad when the time came to sail !
CHAPTER XII
MALAYSIA, PENANG, THE SNAKE TEMPLE, EAST AND FAR EAST,
SINGAPORE
FREE from the deadening effect of caste and seclusion
the Burmese are a merry, if indolent, people. One
leaves their country with pleasant memories, that is, if
one can forget the disease and filth. The people them-
selves are pleasant to remember, not like those of India
where often little girls of three or four are put in purdah,
and made to cover their faces which are never unveiled
again as long as they live. In comparison with these the
joyous Burmese were a delight. Also, the richness of
their soil, even the sleekness of their cattle, made us feel
that in leaving them we were not departing from an
oppressed and down-trodden country.
But we must be up and away ! So a few days later,
on a very comfortable English steamer we sailed down
the coast, passing many pretty islands and other inter-
esting sights. The weather was hot, interspersed with
showers every now and then. After a voyage of five un-
eventful days we reached Georgetown, Malaysia, a beau-
tiful city on the island of Penang. Here we stopped.
Front Door of the Far East
Penang is doubly remarkable. For one thing, one
realizes when he has reached it that he has come to a
143
144 All the Way 'Round
dividing line of the earth. He is turning his back upon
what is known simply as the East and has arrived at the
front door, so to speak, of the great Far East wherein the
Chinese, the Malaysians and the Japanese swarm in un-
counted millions. Second, Penang is the greatest tin port
in the world. Fully two-thirds of all the tin used in the
world starts from Penang and the nearby ports in the
Malacca Straits. The island (Penang) lies at the north-
ern end of these straits. It is about forty miles, or slight-
ly more, in circumference and is a colony of England.
Its population, an admixture of Chinese, Malays, Indians
and, of course, a few Europeans and English, is very
interesting. Its waterfalls and botanical gardens are
lovely, and a mountain over two thousand feet high in
the center of the island gives many beautiful vistas of the
island scenery.
After lunch, while we waited for the motor (the Wil-
lard Morses of New York were with us here) we sat and
watched a most unusual sight on the water. The day
was hot and showery. But between showers there was a
beautiful rainbow light on both land and sea. It was
incomparable.
Never have I seen a cleaner, more beautifully kept
city than Georgetown. About noon the day settled, and
was followed by a perfect afternoon. We motored all
afternoon, encircling the island, seeing some of the most
attractive and wonderfully-kept residences of the wealthy
Malaysia, Penang, the Snake Temple 145
Chinese. We passed also many villages, banana forests
and other such things, saw a lot of wild monkeys and
finally landed at a Snake Temple I
Surrounded by Snakes
As was the case in ancient Egypt, serpent worship is
common in this country. Therefore the Snake Temple
is one of the most important. Had I known the truth
before I entered, I doubt whether I could have persuaded
myself to do so, but it was a case where ignorance was
bliss. There were snakes everywhere ! They were coiled
about the candlesticks, vases and other ornaments. They
lay on the jamb of the doors. They covered the floors.
I went up to inspect one, fervently believing, of course,
that it was stuffed! Imagine my horror when it lifted
its hideous head and began to uncoil! I cried out in
terror and breathlessly leaned against the column for
support — only to find another the head of which was
not two inches from mine ! I could not stay in the place
another minute. I fled to the outer air. The more coura-
geous member of my family, however, remained and when
he returned he brought this information. It was given
him by the priests. At his suggestion that of course the
fangs of the deadly-poisonous things were drawn he was
told that this was not so, but that the reptiles were kept
so heavily fed that they were sluggish, too inactive to
strike or bite. Small boys and the priests move about
146 All the Way 'Round
among them, absolutely unafraid. But I would take no
chances. For the snakes in this temple are the most
deadly poisonous varieties known to man.
Sampans
We visited the bazaar which was the usual colorful
affair, and after a little further sight-seeing took a sam-
pan (river boat) to go out to the boat which lay in the
harbor. It was night. The sea was a bit rough and I
felt somewhat nervous in this shell-like arrangement. I
was told, however, that here they are absolutely safe.
In Rangoon we knew that no white people ever used them.
There they were death-traps, due to the swift and cross
currents of the Irrawaddy river. Here in the Straits
Settlements despite the frailness of the craft there are
few accidents because the waters are calmer. Neverthe-
less, in spite of the assertions as to their safety I was glad
when I found myself out of that pitch-dark sampan and
once more aboard the steamer. No sooner had we started
than the fog horn began to blow — always a dreadful
sound at sea — and we knew we were skirting a dangerous
coast. The next days were gray and dark. At last we
reached Singapore where we were caught in a perfect
downpour, and as usual, every hotel in the place was
packed and jammed. Everywhere that we had stopped
in our travels this had been so, although we always wired
ahead for accommodations, sometimes several days ahead.
Malaysia, Penang, the Snake Temple 147
An Impressive Fleet
Singapore, likewise an island, is one of the prettiest
cities that we saw. It guards the south entrance into the
China Sea and, naturally, is one of the great turnstiles of
commerce. The thing which impressed me most here was
the shipping. I could never have believed that there were
so many ships in the world as lay in the harbor at Singa-
pore. I had always known, of course, that this is the
greatest shipping port in the world, but the statement
had not meant much to me until I saw the ships. The
immensity of the shipping industry is something which
one must see at Singapore in order to comprehend.
After the usual argument over hotel and rooms we
were at last made comfortable. It stands to reason that
in fourteen months consumed in going around the world
there would be many things which cannot be recorded, so
many little side excursions of a day or two of which no
mention can be made for lack of time and space. But
one thing is indelibly stamped upon my memory. This is
the continuous procession of strange hotels at which I
stopped. In fact, I got so that if my husband permitted
me to remain in the same hotel for more than two days I
regarded it as an old family residence !
Singapore is but seventy miles from the Equator, and
like all tropical countries, the moment the sun goes down
the darkness descends immediately. It is either day or it
is night. It is never twilight. But the dawn, strange
148 All the Way 'Round
to say, is much longer coming. One may rise by daylight,
but he will have to wait half an hour for the sun to rise.
The mornings here are very beautiful. It is at an early
hour that the people rise, take their exercise, the half-
naked Malay groom being very much in evidence, leading
the horses of the rich. At the hour of sunrise their
masters appear, mount and ride away. There are also
numbers of quaint carts drawn by hump-backed oxen.
Singapore, however, with its wealthy citizens, its ap-
parent cleanliness, its beautiful botanical gardens and
other spots of loveliness, is one of the most unhealthy
places on the face of the earth. I have been told that it
has the highest death-rate of any city in the world.
Bad News Causes Changes in Plans
In spite of the interest I found in Singapore my stay
there is connected in my memory with a very painful
personal incident. "We received word here that our oldest
grandchild in Chicago was desperately ill. All our plans
were immediately changed. We gave up Java, whither we
had intended going, and took passage at once for Hong-
kong, from which place, unless we received better news
on our arrival, we should set sail immediately for home.
Fortunately for her and for us, when we reached that
city we were informed she was much improved, and we
were urged not to abandon our trip. Upon our return we
found her completely recovered, but because of the news
Malaysia, Penang, the Snake Temple 140
of her illness we took the first boat sailing from Sing-
apore.
Perhaps the experience which followed helped me to
forget my anxiety over my little granddaughter. So
eager were we to be gone that we forgot to look at the
boat until after we were aboard of her ! She was a Dutch
ship, very small, and, contrary to most things Dutch
(which are scrupulously clean) she was surely the filthiest
thing I ever set eyes upon! In addition to ourselves
there were five white people aboard, one of whom was
Dr. Gurd, a very gifted woman from the University of
Michigan at Ann Arbor. Otherwise the boat was packed
with Chinese passengers. And they were the dirtiest
Chinese ! True, they were wealthy, but their odor did not
indicate it! It was unspeakable. And they were piled
into the first cabin with us. We had very little deck room.
All were violently seasick, and the smell from their bed-
rooms was simply indescribable. Not only this — we were
told that the trip would consume four days. It took six.
The only thing I can say for the boat is that it was fairly
steady. But the powerful northeast monsoon was blow-
ing. The waves were mountain high. The food was horri-
ble. There were thirteen of us at the captain's table, which
because of my Irish ancestry did not tend to brighten the
situation ! Well, I — further words fail me ! I shall never
forget my experience on this dreadful boat. And on the
beautiful China Sea!
150 All the Way 'Round
A Night to Be Remembered
On this stormy voyage, however, we were granted one
snperb sight. The stiff wind of the monsoon always in-
creases in volume at night. It blew the clouds away, and
although the waves of spray seemed like mountains, the
boat rode steadily, resting on the water as lightly as a bird.
Overhead the moon shone, and despite this fact the stars
were amazingly bright. The astral triangle, like a dia-
mond kite, was glowing above that glittering constellation
of which I so often think and speak — the Southern Cross
— with its brilliant pointers. On this night it was a thing
of wondrous splendor. The sky was sapphire. The other
constellations — Orion, Taurus, and Sirius, like a sun —
holding our admiration. It was a night long to be remem-
bered in spite of seasick Chinamen and the roughness of
the China Sea!
CHAPTER XIII
MANILA? THE PHILIPPINES
SIX days brought us to Hongkong, and a more beau-
tiful city it would be hard to imagine. Its series of
wonderful harbors, its picturesque hills around them,
reminded us of the harbor of Rio de Janeiro, which we
think the most beautiful in the world. From the top
of the highest peak the city is a glorious sight. Small
bays and harbors lie below, and one of the most charm-
ing hotels, a celebrated summer resort, is situated half
way around the island. A closer approach reveals the
parks, streets, perfectly wonderful stores and shops,
full of fine shawls and linen, all the things which prove
such a delight to the traveler. Eighty per cent of the
population of Hongkong is Chinese. Yet it is an Eng-
lish city.
The comprador and taipan costumes are of the finest
silks — a striking contrast to that of the poor coolies
who wear coarse blue nankeen made into short trousers,
always very dirty. The tall Indian policemen, the Sikhs,
dressed in white, yellow and black, make a brilliant bit
of color. Every nationality seems to be here. The fine
buildings, the motley crowd, the splendid shops (almost
the finest in the world) are wonderful, and never had
I dreamed of such embroidered shawls, silks and linens,
151
152 All the Way 'Kound
to say naught of the fine laces, as are shown in Hong-
kong.
Off for Manila Immediately
As I have already said, however, Hongkong is much
more an English than a Chinese city. Therefore we felt
that we had not really gotten into China until after our
trip to Manila, which we made almost immediately, re-
turning afterwards to Hongkong. We went from here
to Canton, which city is perhaps more strictly Chinese
than any other in the whole country.
How fine it was to board once more a boat which be-
longed to our own good United States! The wonderful
comfort it gave us was certainly a contrast to the last
one ! On this boat we received our long-desired vaccina-
tion for smallpox, keeping this time the certificates to
prove it. All along the way we had been hearing of
people who had entered China without being inoculated
and had died there. For this reason the Chinese officials
had become very exacting in their demands, and one
could not enter the country without having this formality
attended to.
Lizards in the Shoes
So much has been said and written of Manila and
the Philippines that I shall not dwell upon the islands
at length. We found the weather warm, but the hotel
was comfortable and we enjoyed every moment of our
Manila; the Philippines 153
twenty-one days there — with one exception. Our rooms
overlooking the bay were beautiful, but one night I was
terrified by the most dreadful squeaking sounds. It was
in the middle of the night, and so vociferous were they
that I thought surely a lion or tiger had gotten into
my room. With the aid of my husband, however, I went
investigating only to find that they were tiny lizards, of
which there were dozens running about the walls and on
the ceiling! Their favorite haunt, I discovered later,
was the clothes closet, among your dresses, or in your
shoes! They certainly are noisy little pests and it was
some time before I could be persuaded that they were
harmless.
We did all the stunts which travelers usually do, go-
ing to Pagsangan by motor, shooting the rapids while
a number of little wild monkeys pitched stones at us.
The ride to Pagsangan was as tropical as anything we
saw in Ceylon — most luxuriant foliage and the brightest
of scarlet flowers. Palms and cocoanuts, of course,
abounded. We stopped en route to see a beautiful little
lake the name of which I have now forgotten, also at
Los Banos, where the hot water, possessing wonderful
curative properties, gushes right out of the earth. These
waters are celebrated and a charming little sanatorium
has been established here. With us at this place were
two charming Quaker ladies, the Misses T — , of Phila-
delphia. We returned through the mountain gorge, again
154 All the Way 'Round
shooting the rapids — a wonderful and unique drive.
Dinner with General Wood
There was a delightful colony of Americans here,
most of whom we knew. We listened to many hot dis-
cussions as to whether the Philippines are ready for
self-government or not. We had dinner with General and
Mrs. Wood, the lieutenant-governor, his wife, and several
other charming and distinguished guests, among whom
was Dr. Heiser, an authority on sanitation in the islands.
The palace looked lovely. It has large, comfortable rooms
and a beautiful outlook over the river. In a gathering
such as this it was but natural that many interesting
questions should be discussed, and it was as an oasis
must be to the traveler lost in the desert to thus spend
a week-end, as it were, in America on our way to China.
At the dinner table I had observed a (to me) curious
thing. There were small lights beneath the table. It
was lighted more brilliantly underneath than above.
When I sought an explanation, I found that it was to
protect our feet from the mosquitoes should there be
any stray ones inclined to visit us. If there is anything
about the mosquito which they of the Philippines, Cuba,
and Panama have not discovered I should like to know
what it is. They have even learned that they are ter-
rorized by brilliant lights. Hence these under the dining
table.
Manila; the Philippines 155
Other friends entertained us while we were here, and
we enjoyed to the fullest this prelude to the days of
hard traveling which were to follow in China and Japan.
The weather was terribly hot, and as there was to be
a wait of three weeks for the steamer we spent one of
them at that charming resort, Baguio, up in the moun-
tains. It gets very cold up there. The elevation is about
five thousand feet. Here we found a dear friend, Mrs.
Calhoun, of Chicago, widow of our former minister to
China. She was spending a year in the Orient, and with
a young friend had run over from China for a short stay
at Baguio. Though we missed seeing her in China we
had a delightful visit here. Other friends from Chicago,
Mr. and Mrs. Tyler, had accompanied us to Baguio, as
had also Dr. Heiser, of whom I have spoken, a member
of the Rockefeller Foundation, the man who had done
so much to promote sanitation in Manila and the Far
East. After twenty years he had returned to America
only to be recalled by General Wood for service in the
Philippines. It was a privilege to be with him and to see
the perfection of his work in Manila.
An Expert on Typhoons
I have never come in touch with a more interesting
story than that of Father Alguez, a Catholic priest, a
Jesuit, who lives in Baguio. Just outside the city, he has
built a fine observatory, on a hill. Dr. Heiser took us
156 All the Way 'Round
to visit it and while there introduced us to Father Alguez.
A Spaniard, a man highly educated, cultured, picturesque
in appearance because of snow-white hair and beard,
Father Alguez has for years made a study of the hurri-
canes and typhoons which are so deadly an enemy to
life in the tropics. Many wonderful instruments have
been invented and perfected by him with which reckon-
ings are made. So exhaustive has been his research,
so perfect is his knowledge of the subject that his word
is unhesitatingly accepted by everybody on earth whose
dwelling place is in the locality where those dangerous
storms are common. In the Philippines when the typhoon
comes they draw down the coverings above the houses,
and sometimes sit for hours waiting for the typhoon
either to come or to pass them by. All the ships that are
equipped with wireless and with the instruments devised
by Father Alguez have now no excuse in the world for
being lost in hurricane or typhoon. They are always
Warned in time. I asked whether Father Alguez's warn-
ing was ever disregarded and I was told that now it was
not — that once a few years ago someone, who thought
he knew more than the Father, did not heed him and
the result was that ten thousand Chinamen were lost at
sea in a storm. Now, from the greatest ship to the
smallest 'sampan all vessels look in the daily papers for
the report and fly to cover when warned.
At a very typical home in Manila where Mr. W — ,
Manila; the Philippines 157
a former New Orleans resident, and his agreeable daugh-
ter gave us a beautiful dinner, we were shown the manner
in which coverings were lowered to protect buildings.
It is done much like the way in which the canvas is put
down at sea to protect the decks.
Igorrotes' Dog Market
Baguio is celebrated for its market of Igorrotes which
is held every Sunday. It is called the dog market. People
come from the hills and everywhere around to buy a dog.
These they fatten and eat. I felt very sorry for the poor
skinny dogs which were sold the day we were there. The
Igorrotes present a most picturesque appearance and
they bring their wares from all parts of the country.
Some of them are very handsome and they made us think
of the natives of La Paz, Bolivia, where we one day
saw a similar market. In Bagnio I saw something which
I have never either seen or heard of elsewhere. After
a charming lunch at the country club one afternoon, we
rode out (enjoying many pretty views as we went) to a
hospital. It stands, or sits, right on the edge of a large
slide, a hole in the ground fully half a mile square. Dr.
Heiser says that this slide is puzzling scientists through-
out the world. From no apparent cause it began about
ten years ago to sink. It goes down about two feet a
month. They can find no reason for it, but — a hospital
on this rugged edge seemed to me a mighty poor place
158 All the Way 'Round
in which to house sick people, especially since, as I was
informed, the rest house for the nurses toppled over the
edge a few years ago. The authorities know and admit
that the hospital is dangerously placed, but say that
they have not enough money to move it!
In this charming Baguio, for the first time we broke
the rule which we had so strictly kept ever since leaving
home in regard to uncooked food and unboiled water.
Baguio is in charge of the government. The gardens are
perfectly kept, and are not fertilized in the same man-
ner as are those of the rest of the Orient. Here we ate
luscious strawberries and other uncooked things, and
fearlessly drank the unboiled water.
A Dangerous Motor Trip
Baguio is progressive as to education. Here are
schools where young men are taught farming, the girls
bead- and bag-work and other handicraft of the island.
One cannot be in the Philippines without feeling very
proud of one's country — that is if one's country chances
to be the United States ! We have done much for these
far-away islands. They have much to thank us for.
It is cool in Baguio. One can live there comfortably,
practice his trade or profession and really get on in life,
forgetful of the heat of Manila. There could be nothing
more beautiful than the motor trip between these two
places — a wonderful panorama of winding roads, glori-
Manila; the Philippines 159
ous gorges, white rushing cataracts against dark granite
backgrounds, masses of brilliant flowers and green trees,
all forming a perfect conglomeration of beauty, espe-
cially if seen in the cool of the sunset. But — it is a
dangerous ride, because of which fact they have estab-
lished an excellent block system with gates through
which no machine is permitted to pass until the way is
clear ahead. The system covers the dangerous part of
the road. After this one flies over smooth white roads
through seemingly endless villages.
On the day that we were leaving, just before taking
our train back to Manila, being the first motor out we
waited, according to arrangement, for the following one
at the station. It was due in twenty minutes but did not
arrive for more than an hour and when it did come the
occupants had a grewsome tale to tell. They had been
stopped on the way by the body of a murdered man
lying across the road. He had been killed between the
time that we passed and the time that they came along.
They were held at the gate until the authorities could
be summoned, and we all nearly lost our train in con-
sequence. The authorities were greatly disturbed over
this occurrence (as they had every reason to be) and
the papers were filled with it. Some of our party were
fearful of being detained as witnesses, but fortunately
this did not happen. We should have lost the steame
in that event.
160 All the Way 'Round
The Murder of Mrs. Snyder
The morning of our return to Manila was a day we
shall always remember. Announcement was flashed over
the whole world of the tragic death by assassination of
a lovely American woman, wife of William J. Snyder,
a wealthy banker and coal operator of Brazil, Indiana.
Like ourselves the Snyders were making a trip around
the world. The tenseness of feeling between Korea and
Japan put it into the heads of three Koreans to attempt
the assassination of the Japanese minister who was to
be in Hongkong. Although we did not know Mr. and
Mrs. Snyder personally they had been with us in Manila,
and had gone back to Hongkong on the same boat which
had brought us to the Philippines. As they were de-
scending the gangplank at Hongkong the assassins fired
three shots, all of which took effect in Mrs. Snyder's
body. Death followed in a few moments. This event,
aside from the fact that we had travelled with her, in-
terested us personally for another reason. Only a few
years ago, our brother, Mr. William Preston Harrison,
and his wife, were also travelling in the Orient. While
in Korea a similar occurrence took place. The city was
in gala dress for the approaching visit of the Japanese
minister, and desirous of witnessing the ceremonies Mr.
and Mrs. Harrison joined the throng. A bomb was
thrown. Mr. Harrison was so badly stunned that it was
thought at first he had been killed. Recovering shortly,
Market, Baguio
People come from the hills to the Baguio market
Igorrotes at the Baguio market
An Igorrote youth
Manila; the Philippines 161
however, he found his wife severely wounded, four
wounds having been given her, one of which was serious.
The event further interested us because had we reached
Manila five days earlier we should have been among the
passengers alighting at Hongkong ourselves, and un-
doubtedly witnesses of the tragedy.
Having escaped a tragedy, however, we had the pleas-
ure of bringing with us a happy romance instead. A
very charming young lady had gone out to Manila to
visit friends. Meeting there the son of General Wood,
after a brief courtship she had been married to him.
They were taking their honeymoon trip to China and
Japan on our steamer.
CHAPTER XIV
ENGLISH HONGKONG AND CHINESE CANTON
THE voyage from Manila to Hongkong was lovely.
All writers and travelers unite in crying out about
the unspeakable filth of Chinese cities. But we saw none
of it in beautiful, well-kept, up-to-date, English Hong-
kong.
When we went to Canton, however, it was different.
We realized the truth of their statements. As our vessel
was to remain for two days at Hongkong we found that
by taking a night boat we could spend a day in Canton,
which we did. Ever since leaving Marseilles there was
one subject of conversation in which we had to indulge
frequently, and when we reached China we found a
second of equally absorbing interest. We had purposely
left Europe late to avoid the tour of the Prince of Wales
who was about to set forth on a visit to his dominions.
We thought (and in this we were not mistaken) that
the enormous and lavish preparations for his reception
everywhere he went would disturb the ordinary appear-
ance of the country, which was what we were there to
see. Although at any other time we should have enjoyed
this episode greatly, we longed for a whole year in India
and found ourselves able to spend but two months there.
So we sought to escape this royal visit. But it was not
162
English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 163
possible. Everywhere preparations wore being made.
Thousands and thousands of dollars were being spent,
and not infrequently a temporary platform, or some such
thing, would interfere, sometimes completely destroy the
perspective of a temple or public building which we had
come thousands of miles to see.
Hongkong Waits for Prince of Wales
In spite of the marring of the view however, we
afterwards regretted that we could not linger for the
royal festivities. The magnificent garden parties, the
jewels of the maharajahs, the value of which ran into
the billions, the royal elephants, the opportunity to wit-
ness the native games — all this and much more we had
to forego for lack of time. Also, as I have already men-
tioned, there was a great unrest, due to the discontent
fomented by Ghandi and his following, and this made it
imperative that the Prince should be guarded every hour
and everywhere he went — a precaution which proved a
great strain upon the young man, a strain which was
quite visible in his countenance. We had delayed our own
journey sufficiently to give him three months ahead of
us. On our arrival at Hongkong we learned that he
was due there the next night ! The red carpet was spread
and the w T hole city festooned for his reception.
The second event which had kept us at boiling point
all along the journey was, of course, the war cloud which
164 All the Way 'Round
was just then spread over China. Everywhere we went
we learned that daily it loomed heavier and heavier. It
had now assumed such proportions that the tourists were
warned against visiting China, and many who intended
doing so had left, unwilling to take the risk. We felt,
however, that we had come too far and had endured
altogether too many discomforts in order to see this
ancient country, to be willing to just lightly give it up.
So we decided that wherever a train or a boat would go
and the authorities would permit, we would take a chance
on them.
Provided with Reliable Guides
We were told that few people ever go to Canton with-
out first receiving satisfactory reports that no immediate
outbreaks are expected. The well-known hatred which
the Cantonese have for the foreigner was not absent when
we were there. In fact, it was greatly accentuated by
some recent action of the English. They had killed five
Cantonese, and after long litigation the government had
allowed a very small sum of money for these deaths. In
consequence the people were feeling ugly, and many tour-
ists, advised not to venture, did not go. But we went.
We took every precaution, however. In addition to our
usual guide to Canton, an English-speaking Chinaman,
we wired for three others who should meet us here. These
are supplied upon request by Cook, and those provided
for us proved most reliable. Friends urged us not to go.
In Canton's Roof Garden
Sampan Colony, Canton
u
H
English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 165
But we decided to do so, determining, however, to be
on the alert and to take no unnecessary chances.
It is well-known that not many of the white residents
of Canton live in the city. They reside upon an island —
the consuls, missionaries and foreign merchants — al-
ways protected by a guard. The gate to this island is
kept locked. One is permitted to enter by passport only.
It is encircled by barbed wire, and is well patrolled, day
and night. A dwelling place for the white man is not to
be desired in Canton. From all that one reads (and
sees) in Canton, one wonders just how long a white man
would be ashore without having his throat cut ! All yel-
low humanity seems to threaten him.
Fire that Smolders
But the Chinese have a wholesome respect for the
white man's power, and this is the strongest check
against them that there is. We learned while at Canton,
however, that the consuls of the United States and Eng-
land have banded together, and keep in the harbor a
warship large enough to take them all aboard in case
of trouble — a very significant fact! Should the war
cloud now so dense around Peking and Hanchow extend
to Canton, the Cantonese are not likely to forget their
five slain countrymen and England's meager remunera-
tion. There would be little hope for the white people
there should the flame flare out in Canton, and of course,
166 All the Way 'Round
they do not distinguish between English and American.
They include the latter (through ignorance, of course)
in their intense hatred toward England.
It is said that the Cantonese are the most strictly
Chinese of all the people of that vast country, also that
they are progressive as to education. As to this latter
statement I cannot say. One sees little evidence of it as
he goes among the people. But they do have, once in three
years, a gathering of the learned, where a difficult com-
petitive examination is held for membership in the Han
Lun College. Those who win this great honor are revered
throughout the empire. There was once a leper colony
near here and all the native craft had to pay the head leper
for a pass to the city. If payment was refused the lepers
would surround the boat, which, of course, always brought
forth payment in short order !
Running the Gauntlet
The night trip on a wretched little boat which ran
between Hongkong and Canton was about as miserable
and uncomfortable as one could imagine. Our two Chi-
cago friends, Mr. and Mrs. Tyler, the guide, and ourselves
spent some very unhappy hours between dusk and dawn.
The boat was heavily guarded, not because of the war,
but because the river ran through that celebrated pirate
country which has so long existed and is such a menace.
Only ten days before we came, one of these little steamers
English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 167
had been attacked and looted and one or two people
killed. Our small boat was practically encased in barbed
wire and the decks patrolled by armed men.
Brigandage is a phase of Chinese life which nobody,
seemingly, makes any effort to check. People are so ac-
customed to it that they think little or nothing if a wealthy
man is captured and held for ransom. These brigands
lie in ambush for those whom they have selected and
when they have seized them, hide in the hills, demanding
often a huge sum for their release. The Chinese govern-
ment is apparently afraid to clean up the districts where
this is extensively practiced, and so the nefarious business
just goes on. If a brigand is captured he is promptly
shot, but they are so seldom caught that this fate does not
intimidate them. A protest from the American Legation
has recently stirred the Chinese government to action,
and it is said that measures a little more stringent are
under way. A threat from one of our ministers also had
effect. Some Americans were promptly delivered, and
without ransom, too. Since then the Chinese government
has shown a little less fear in dealing with the brigands.
However, in going up the river we had no unusual
experiences. We went through safely and reached Canton
by daylight. Of all the Chinese the people of Canton are
said to be the least friendly. They are very proud, and
among the educated they hold themselves aloof from
contact with all other races. Once or twice on our travels
168 All the Way 'Eound
we met some educated Cantonese, brought up in England.
They were most agreeable. One girl, especially, I remem-
ber. Her father was an Englishman, she herself married
to one, and she was as charming and attractive as any
woman I have ever seen. But the lower class, both like
and unlike those of whom I speak, have that same aloof-
ness which is almost aggressiveness and they lack, of
course, the education which makes the upper class Can-
tonese know how to use it.
The Sampan Colony
One of the striking sights on the arrival of the boat
at Canton is that of the vast floating population. Over a
hundred thousand small sampans cover the water, all
manned by women. "Whole families are born, live, and
die in these boats, wretched and filthy, all housed in
the tiny space of a few feet. Here they cook, wash,
eat, and sleep, and the dirty water from the river which
they drink is little else than thin mud. Standing with
long oars attached to the back of the boat, the women
maneuvered them skillfully, and this they do with babies
tied to their backs. It is a pitiful sight. The poor baby
flops about and falls from side to side as the mother
moves vigorously, and never a whimper from the little
one. These people who live on the sampans are the very
lowest class in China. They never marry with the land
people. The men fish and sit around — I never saw any
Incense Burner, Suchow Oldest Pagoda, Suchow
Tiger Hill Pagoda, Suchow
A picturesque bridge,
Suchow
In front of City Temple,
Suchow
A barber, Such
A garden, Suchow
English Hongkong and Chinese Canton 169
of them working — and they have the usual characteris-
tics of the oriental. Even this class will not permit their
women to sit with them. The wives and women members
of the family must sit elsewhere. The men are served on
one part of the boat by the women who, after they have
attended to the wants of these lords of creation, sit down
humbly with each other and eat.
IT MADE MY BLOOD BOIL! I'M FOR SUF-
FRAGE IN CHINA!
We had an experience in one of the temples in Canton
which, had it not been for our guide, might have had an
ugly outcome. We were warned to be careful as the Can-
tonese are a sensitive lot and it was Ancestral Day.
Every one was worshiping and making offerings to their
ancestors. We were standing quietly, just watching the
worshipers, when suddenly our guide said, " Come
quickly! We have been asked to leave!" "But — " I
ventured, " we have not yet seen the temple. Won't they
permit us to visit it ? " " No, no ! " was his reply. " Come
at once. You may be shot ! " So out we went. In other
temples, however, they treated us, if not with respect, at
least with indifference.
CHAPTER XV
ACROSS CHINA; SHANGHAI, CANTON, SUCHOW, NANKING,
PEKING
DESPITE the power of individual rulers and periods
of remarkable strength on the part of the nation,
China, under the influence of Confucius, has been looking
backward rather than forward for the last twenty-four
hundred years. Today, however, the old Chinese civili-
zation seems doomed, anchored as it is solely in the past.
One of China's weaknesses is, of course, her isolation.
She seems geographically set apart from the rest of the
world. With the great shipping interests of the present
day, however, that weakness must rapidly disappear with
the establishment and control of transportation. China
is bound to reach, in time, that civilization to which all
the world feels that she is entitled. The true ambassa-
dors to China are, after all, our merchant adventurers of
the western nations, bearing their goods, revealing their
skill in engineering and making use of diplomacy when
advisable. I heard one of our diplomats speak glowingly
of the splendid effect that the carrying of petroleum into
China has accomplished. To them something which could
light a lamp and thereby prolong their day was little
short of a miracle. For, since time immemorial the
Chinese have risen at dawn and retired at dark. They
had no artificial light.
170
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 171
A Light in the Darkness
I had always been keen for a larger knowledge of this
wonderful country. To me, during the trip which encir-
cled the globe, it had always seemed the objective point.
Its literature has ennobling standards and lofty ideals.
Its people certainly display common sense in the belief
that experience is the mother of custom. Still, the rest
of the world deplores the fact that the Chinese are so
cautious of experiment, so wary when it comes to accept-
ing new ideas. Custom and past experience have always
been enough for them. Because their ancestors did things,
they, too, must do them ! They are long in realizing that
not to accept new ideas is not to advance. But they are
beginning to see the light. Already there is a distinct
advancement along many lines.
The tendency to do away with the queue was the first
step toward newer ideas. The second was the building
of railroads, even across ancestral graves. In fact, it
would not be possible to build a road of any kind which
would not cross these ancestral resting-places. There
are millions of them. China is one huge cemetery. This
is almost the first impression which the traveler gets
when he enters the country. And there is no system about
burying people in China. Graves are planted anywhere
and everywhere. They clutter up everything, rows and
rows of them, regular and irregular. They are to be
found in both flower and vegetable gardens, and not inf re-
172 All the Way 'Bound
quently some ancestor is buried right in front of the
house. And no matter where they bury an ancestor the
spot is most sacred, always respected and well cared for.
The Widows' Monuments
Ancestor worship certainly must keep one pretty busy
in China. Every now and then as we went from place to
place we would see such a pretty four-pillared effect with
a cross-beam on top. When we inquired what these were,
we were told that they were " widow monuments." And
we saw hundreds of them. If a widow was devout, if she
either burned herself to death, or shaved her head, black-
ened her teeth, mutilated her face or performed some
other nice little stunt which would render her unattractive
to other men (in this way proving her devotion to the
dear departed) her friends would erect for her a widow's
monument. Or, if they were too poor, the government
would sometimes do it for them, thus encouraging all the
poor deluded females to be faithful to the deceased —
these privileged individuals who during their lives had
several legal wives and all the concubines they could sup-
port, and who would not be faithful to the memory of any
one woman for five minutes ! The monuments are impos-
ing and attractive, but I felt incensed every time I
looked at one of them. One cannot help admiring them —
when one realizes what a woman has gone through in
order to get one.
Holy Way to the Ming Tombs, Nanking
Professional beggars seen at the Ming Tombs, Nanking
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 173
There is another thing in China which makes a great
impression upon one. This is the seeming permanency
of her cities. For how many centuries have they been
just as they are now — Peking, Shanghai, Suchow, Hong-
kong (modernized because of her geographical situa-
tion), Nanking. In what mysterious way have all these
survived destruction 1 That they have seen wars, sieges,
pestilence and famine, disastrous floods which sometimes
destroy whole populations in a day, all the world knows.
China's ancient cities are cities still. Babylon, Ninevah,
and Tyre — where are they? One cannot help being
inspired by the dignified old age of China.
On account of the fighting we were forced to miss
Hanchow, as well as several other interesting places. But
we were possessed of a do-or-die determination to at least
have a look-in on that most interesting of all Chinese
cities, Peking. On the way we found much of interest to
all the party, while I, as a Catholic, was more than pleased
to see what the church is doing in the Orient. One finds
much to interest and entertain him in Shanghai, and here
the Catholics may well be proud of their work. The con-
vent established there for Chinese girls is a model. The
lace they turn out is so exquisite that it is something to
dream about. The Jesuit College is equally efficient.
Here the boys make superb furniture, the carvings on
which are considered wonderful even for Chinese carv-
ings. Every tourist, no matter what his faith, should
174 All the Way 'Round
visit these two places. Otherwise he will miss something
well worth seeing.
The picturesque bridges of Suchow are just as ex-
quisite as are all the pictures we see of the city. So many
American artists have delighted to paint it, that the
average traveler is prepared for its beauty, certain por-
tions of it being distinctly recognizable from paintings
which one has seen before coming. Had it not been for
the usual filth and the ill-smelling bazaars, we should have
adored it. As one approaches Suchow the first sight
which greets him is, of course, the pagodas. There are
five inside the city and three on the hills outside. The
Great Pagoda, as it is called, seen on entering the city,
is one of the most famous in China. It was built about
1131 A. D. It is nine stories high and a marvel in pro-
portion. It is sixty feet at the base, forty-five at the top,
and each story is proportionally narrower and smaller.
In spite of its massiveness it is exquisitely built and is
simply glorious to look upon. The leaning pagoda at
Tiger Hill is also wonderful. I do not recall whether it
is eleven or thirteen stories, but it is extremely pictur-
esque. It is the first one to be seen on entering the city
and the last one seen when leaving it. Its peculiar slant,
like that of the leaning tower of Pisa, gives it an air of
enchantment, mystery, and charm, and like it, it seems as
if it could not have been built at that peculiar angle by
human hands.
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 175
Harrowing Scenes at Nanking
Of course we went to Nanking because one of the
finest of all the Ming tombs is there. In all of China there
is really no finer. From Nanking we motored to it and
found it magnificent. The great slab — colossal in size,
with the history of the king written on slab towers —
stands on the back of a huge tortoise. The approach to
the tomb, The Holy Way, is lined on either side with
crouching and standing stone figures of priests, war-
riors, elephants, lions, horses, and other animals. It is
very effective and dignified. At Nanking, as in fact
throughout China, the terrible sight of maimed and blind
took away much of the pleasure of looking at objects of
interest. Even the beautiful view from the top of the wall
of the Pagoda of the War God I saw through blinding
tears. Although I tried to become inured to the sight of
the professional beggar as one sees him in the Orient, I
could not succeed. I did get so that I could shut my eyes
to it in men and women. But the sight of a handsome
boy professionally maimed, with bleeding sores caused
by some hideous disease, was the culmination here of all
that I had to witness in the Far East. Absolutely no
precaution, so far as I am able to learn, is taken by the
authorities or any one else to protect and safeguard the
health of these children. The sight of them is most har-
rowing. But — as beggars they are valuable! They
are pushed forward by their parents to beg the living
176 All the Way 'Round
for both of them. I cannot remember seeing a child of the
poorer class in all China, however young or small, who
was not the victim of some terrible and loathsome skin
disease. Sometimes in tiny children it is slight. But it
is always there and seems to be taken for granted by the
natives.
The professional beggars are so numerous that the
railroad has been compelled to build a fence to protect
the passengers. Back of the fence, when the train comes
in, they congregate while sympathizing passengers throw
money to them from the windows. The most terrible sight
I have ever witnessed in my whole life occurred at one
of these stations. I dislike to dwell upon its hideousness,
but to omit the recital would be to leave out something
which is a part of Chinese life. We drew up at the sta-
tion. Back of the fence was the usual array of beggars.
They are not permitted to come out from behind the
fence, but one poor woman, becoming importunate, came
too near the train. She was a terrible creature to look at
• — almost half of her head eaten away by a huge sore.
When she broke the rule a policeman began to beat her.
From the train the passengers had to sit helpless and
watch the performance. She screamed with pain, cursing
and reviling him at the same time. Her terrified children
clung to her skirts. Each time she fell to the ground her
little boy of six would help her to her feet. Her cries
ring in my ears to this hour. The episode is typical of
Drum Tower, Nanking
Bell Tower, Nankins
Pagoda of the War God, Nanking
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 177
two of the things which go to make up the country, the
filth, poverty, and beggary of the people, and the inhuman
cruelty of the police.
Our train for Peking went out under guard because of
the robbers who had been rendered bold by the war which
was then going on pretty vigorously in certain sections
of China. Only a week before they had held up a train,
looted it, taking all the money from the passengers, and
one man was killed. All trains were now guarded, and
we got through all right. It was a lovely country through
which we passed. "Wild cherry, apple, and peach blos-
soms and the glorious yellow of the Chinese cabbage
made beautiful the landscape. The last-named flower,
which the English call the rape and the Chinese know as
Chinese cabbage, is like our mustard bloom in color and
is beautiful from a distance. Enormous fields of it, side
by side with meadows of red clover, looked like huge
paintings from the windows of the train.
The Peking dust has not been exaggerated. And we
reached Peking in the dusty month of April. It was some-
thing terrible. Actually, when clouds of it arose it was
like a dense fog. One could see only a few feet ahead.
Of course, not being acclimated, we all paid tribute to it
in colds and throat infections. Each of us in turn lay in
bed for a few days suffering from the effects. And no
one had the least sympathy for us. Each said indiffer-
ently, " Oh, that is nothing ! Just the Peking dust ! " But,
178 All the Way 'Round
with streaming eyes, sore throats, and awful coughs, we
thought our friends decidedly unfriendly. We survived,
however, and managed to thoroughly enjoy our two
weeks' stay.
Oh, the fascination of Peking ! Words cannot describe
it. China lays great stress on externals. Her display, I
presume, is caused by her old love of imperialism. All
of her public ceremonials are colored with great bril-
liancy. In Peking she seems to have gathered the most
striking and the most gorgeous of all her priceless pos-
sessions. Her temples are exquisite in form and superbly
carved. Her museum is said to be the most costly in the
world. Her treasures and trappings — but it is useless
to enumerate further. One could never speak of them all.
When the Manchus captured Peking in 1644 they made
the Tartar City their residence. Outside the Tartar City
lies the Chinese City, surrounded by a wall thirty feet
high and twenty-five feet wide. Lying within the Tartar
City is the Imperial City, and lying within the Imperial
City is the Forbidden City, which for so many centuries
was a mystery to the world outside. Until the Boxer
rebellion in 1900 no foreigner was permitted to enter it.
Within it lived the royal family with their hundreds of
servants. However, those days have passed into history.
The Forbidden City is now open to the public. But no
one is permitted to enter that part where lives the little
lad who would have been emperor had China continued a
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 179
monarchy. With the establishment of the republic, addi-
tional parts of the City have been opened to the traveler.
A Background of Mountains
Peking is situated in a flat plain, but ten miles away
the western hills rise abruptly out of the flat sands to a
height of about seven thousand feet, making a picturesque
background for the city. These hills possess some won-
derful tombs which we longed to visit but dared not. The
war cloud was assuming large proportions when we
entered Peking and we could not tell how long or how brief
our stay there would be.
When one enters this old city he passes through the
Chinese City with its massive walls and lofty towers,
solemn and mysterious, strong-looking as the mountains.
They separated themselves well from their ancient
enemies, the Manchus, whom they hated. The great
grievance of the Chinese, underlying all else, the most
prime factor in all the recent revolutions, is the fact that
for three hundred years their country has been ruled, not
by the Chinese, but by these alien Manchus. The wall
which here separates the Chinese and the Tartar cities is
a hundred feet high by eighty wide. From the Tartar
City one enters the third one, the Imperial City. Two
temples are on either side of the gate, one dedicated to
the God of War. Through this gate one looks straight
up a broad avenue to the stately buildings of the Imperial
180 All the Way 'Round
Palace. A large square lies outside the Forbidden City
and it forms the main approach to the Imperial City.
Colossal pillars and huge stone lions guard the entrance
to these wonderfully fine palaces and buildings. It is a
most dignified approach to what was formerly the seat
of power of a mighty nation. One is quite awed by it, and
it is not difficult to understand the stupendous effect it
would have upon the visiting emissaries of other and
more democratic nations.
Bridal and Funeral Ceremonies
In Peking the street life is fascinating beyond descrip-
tion. The springless Pekingese carts, drawn by mules or
ponies, are resplendent with varnished sides, silver-
trimmed harness, and silken hangings. In former days
these carts, with their brilliant trappings, and the Sedan
chairs were the only means of conveyance for the rich.
Now, however, in Peking as elsewhere the automobile is
omnipresent. China is the country of gorgeous funerals.
In Peking they are famous. The richer the family the
more magnificent the funeral. Even the poor will spend
the savings of years to bury their dead. There are dozens
of bands of music (making the awfulest, most excruci-
ating sounds), hired mourners who run ahead and shriek
at certain intervals; priests in splendid robes are as
numerous as the purse of the family will allow. To one
unused to the sight there was always a question in the
J ;
1 -*
A large square outside the Forbidden City, Peking
flMllnm
Wli IlllllL
///III II
t«g, . I I <-
Uzz
■■^■i
'!" -
**> V,
A part of the Forbidden City, Peking
Grand Peace Palace, Forbidden City, Peking
Camels from the Western hills
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 181
mind — W as it a wedding or a funeral? Much the same
ceremony attends each. All the poor occidental can do is
to stick around until either the corpse or the bride comes
into view if he wishes to satisfy his curiosity.
Almost every one agrees that of the sights of Peking
the Temple of Heaven is the finest. This is saying much
when one begins mentally to enumerate them, the Yel-
low Temple, the Lama Temple, the Summer Palace, the
Ming tombs (not far away from the city), last of all, the
Great Wall, these glories are but a twentieth of those
which might be named in a very short time. But the
Temple of Heaven, in the lower part of the Chinese City,
surrounded by its three-and-a-half-mile wall, is in archi-
tecture, location, dignity, and sheer beauty a worthy sec-
ond to the Taj Mahal. Its grounds are filled with gnarled
old cypresses, firs, and pines. This was the most sacred of
all the temples of China, and here the ceremonies were
once magnificent. Here once a year came the emperor
to worship at the shrine of his ancestors, who in this
case were not the members of his own family, but all the
emperors who had reigned before him. Accompanied by
thousands of his highest officials, they, in turn, attended
by their personal retinues, clad in the costliest gowns
that the empire afforded, made a pageant well worth
seeing. The trouble was that no one saw it. The pro-
cession formed at the Forbidden City before the em-
peror's palace. All the houses along the route had to be
182 All the Way 'Round
closed until they had passed. What a pity ! So splendid
a spectacle and nobody to see it! The emperor was
called The Son of Heaven, and here in the Temple he
went to worship alone. He spent the night in fasting
and prayer. Then in the morning, joined by his follow-
ers, the open ceremony was held. This custom was many
centuries old, but, like most customs, passed with the
Empire.
How the Emperors Prayed
Nothing could be more beautiful than the white mar-
ble altars of the Temple of Heaven. They are right out
in the open and consist of three circular terraces with
balustrades and triple staircases at the four cardinal
points. By means of these one ascends to the upper ter-
race, which is ninety feet wide, the base being two hun-
dred and ten feet across. The platform is laid with
marble stones in nine concentric circles, and everything
is arranged in multiples of the number nine. Prostrate
on the ground before these white altars, surrounded first
by the terraces and then by the horizon, the emperor at
prayer seemed to be the center of the universe. He
acknowledged himself inferior to heaven, but to heaven
alone. Around him on the pavement the nine circles
widened into each successive multiple until eighty-one
was reached. The square of nine is the favorite number
in numerical philosophy.
Across China; Shanghai, Canton 183
There was a seat on the terrace where The Son of
Heaven, his own prayer at an end, sat to watch the rest
of the ceremony. But no foreigner ever was permitted
to see anything in connection with it. No priests offi-
ciated, only royalty and its following, and the latter were
in training many months in advance. In one corner of
the temple near the altar are some green tiles on which
the sacred bullock was slaughtered. The calf must be
without blemish and of uniform color. Eight metal bra-
ziers encircle the altar and these were used for burnt
offerings of silk, written prayers (after they had been
read), and other sacred things. With the passing of the
Chinese empire and the doing away with royalty, these
picturesque and ancient ceremonies came to an end. No
more now does a Son of Heaven worship his ancestors
in this beautiful temple.
Oregon Pine in One Temple
Not far from here is another edifice known as the
Temple of the Happy New Year. It was struck by light-
ning in 1889 and pretty badly damaged. I was interested
to learn that when it came to restoring it they could
produce in China no beams sufficiently massive to support
the roof. They looked the world over and finally used
our own Oregon pine. The pine which was sent to rebuild
it was shipped from Portland.
Every conqueror of China tried to take unto himself
184 All the Way 'Round
the privilege of worshiping at the Temple of Heaven.
But when Yuan Shih K'ai assumed the dictatorship, and
sought to take advantage of the imperial privilege, it
was so distasteful to the Chinese that he never tried it
but once.
The Lama Temple is really a monastery. The monks
in their orange and yellow costumes, carrying a bunch
of peacock feathers which they wave as a signal for the
ceremonies to begin, are quite unusual and very interest-
ing to watch. They have both cymbals and drums, but
the most curious of their musical instruments is the conch
shell, which they blow. We had hoped to see the Lama
dance, said to be both hideous and terrible, the costumes
being death masks. They whip and scourge themselves,
yell, and act more like demons than human beings. But
they rarely give the dance now and none was held while
we were there.
Winning a Breakfast
I had an interesting experience at the entrance of the
temple of Confucius. We observed that a gambling
game was going on, straws being drawn to decide the
winner. Quite a crowd had gathered and everybody was
taking part in the game. We joined it, paid our money,
and took our chance with the rest. Everybody lost but
me. I had won twelve delicious dishes to eat, so my guide
told me, pointing out the delectable ( !) things which were
mine. I gazed upon my winnings with consternation.
Lama Temple, Peking Temple of Heaven, Peking
An outer gate to the Temple of Heaven, Peking
V.
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p-i
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Across China; Shanghai, Canton 185
Nothing on the face of the earth could have induced me
to even taste a mouthful of these dishes, prepared by the
poorer class of Chinese and exposed for hours in the
open to all the germs which China has to offer. But the
crowd was watching me and I feared to give offense.
Suddenly I had an inspiration. Turning to the guide, I
asked him to explain that I had just breakfasted and was
not a bit hungry. I begged that the crowd would be my
guests. The way they fell upon those twelve dishes and
devoured them! And the way the priests laughed and
thanked me ! What an immense relief to me ! For a few
minutes it had been a close call.
The chief attraction in the temple of Confucius here
is ten chiseled boulders inscribed with a description of a
great hunting expedition which the emperor, Shan, un-
dertook three thousand years ago. The stones are known
as the " stone drums of the Chow dynasty." They were
discovered in the seventh century.
A Palace for a Navy
The morning we spent in the Summer Palace was like
a trip to fairyland. The grounds are exquisitely kept.
The loveliest white marble bridge spans the most charm-
ing little lake in the enclosure. It was this palace which
eventually cost the old Empress Dowager her crown, for
she built it with the money which had been appropriated
for the purpose of strengthening the Chinese Navy.
186 All the Way 'Round
When war came the navy crumpled up and was lost.
But the Summer Palace is a dream, and in one of the
rooms there still hangs a portrait (in oils) of this re-
markable woman. She has little of the look of the con-
cubine. First and last she has the look of sovereignty
in her countenance. Her long, thin face ; her calm, shrewd
eyes ; her intellectual forehead give evidence of the power
she wielded for more than half a century. People in
China regarded the old empress as the wisest living
creature, and although they recognize that she once
showed a woman's weakness in that she built a palace
instead of strengthening her navy, with a snarling world
around her, she still holds her place as one of the Great.
CHAPTER XVI
THE QUADRUPLE-WALLED CITY OF PEKING; ONWABD TO
MANCHURIA
AS I look back over the years of my husband's public
t service, I find that very charming memories come of
the occasions when we had the privilege and the pleasure
of entertaining princes and nobles, and many of the
world's distinguished. During his father's public life and
his own it was our pleasant fortune to have as guests four
presidents of the United States, one of whom (President
Harrison) was a relative. The others were Presidents
Cleveland, McKinley, and Taft. In speaking of these,
however, I do not mean to belittle any of the distinguished
foreigners whom we also received ; and although we never
thought at the time of the far-distant day when we should
be world-travelers, we found the truth of the biblical say-
ing, " Cast thy bread upon the waters and it will return
to you after many days." Many places that we went,
ourselves having forgotten them, we found that these
courtesies were remembered and either returned or, as
was the case of the invitation to tea with the royal family
of Spain, an attempt was made to return them. In most
instances, because of restricted time, we declined these
invitations. We had gone on our tour not for the social
events which might be offered us, but to see the wonders
187
188 All the Way 'Round
and note the customs of the countries we were to visit.
Acquaintance with Prince Imperial
In China, however, we made an exception. The late
Empress Dowager sent as her personal representative to
the World's Fair at St. Louis, His Excellency, Pu Lun,
Prince Imperial of China. He was entertained at the
White House, and we were asked by the government to
make his stay in Chicago just as pleasant as possible.
My husband appointed a committee to care for him, we
ourselves gave a dinner for him, followed by an evening
at the theater. I gathered together a few ladies, and
with the members of his suite we filled several boxes.
Prince Pu Lun proved a delightful acquaintance. A
thorough man of the world, highly educated, he charmed
everybody. As the representative of the Imperial Family
and as a general in the Chinese army, this dignified gen-
tleman was showered with honors wherever he went.
When we reached Peking we asked Mr. Peck, secre-
tary of the American Legation, if he would not try to
arrange for us to have an interview with Prince Pu Lun.
Through his own and Mrs. Peck's kindness we had a
delightful afternoon at tea with him. The Prince always
has an interpreter. Whether he speaks English or not
I do not know, but even if he does, etiquette requires the
interpreter. In his handsome Chinese dress he made an
impressive figure as he talked, and almost his first words
Near the Lama Temple, Peking
Near the Central Gate,
Forbidden City, Peking
Yellow Temple, Pekim
Grounds of the Temple of Heaven, Peking
An entrance to the Temple of Heaven, Peking
The Quadruple- Walled City of Peking 189
on greeting us were : " It is to me a source of the most
profound regret that the Imperial Family of China is
no longer in a position to show you the courtesies which
you once extended to me." He lives in the Forbidden
City, but because of the illness of his wife he could not
ask us to his home. (I wondered which wife !)
His Remarkable Memory
I discovered that, as is usual with the Chinese, he has
an excellent memory. One of his first questions was,
"How is the lady who asked why I removed my cap?"
On the night that I had taken them all to the theater in
Chicago — remember that it was now twenty years ago —
all the members of his party had worn skull caps. One
of my feminine guests, eagerly watching every movement
of the royal visitor to find in each little gesture some
significance, had put this question to the interpreter. The
latter replied, "Because he is warm, I think!" How we
all laughed, none more heartily than the Prince himself.
I thought his recollection of the incident remarkable.
Paul Reinsch, an American Minister to China, says of
him: "Pu Lun was one of the most delightful men in
all China," and in one paragraph of his book he thus
describes him : "At the reception of President Yuan Shih
K'ai, which was held in the residence of the Dowager
Empress in 1914, all the diplomatic corps were present.
Every official was in splendid uniform. From a side room
190 All the Way 'Round
whither we had withdrawn we looked into the main hall
and saw that its floor had been entirely cleared. A mo-
ment later, a solitary figure in the uniform of a general
proceeded across the floor toward Yuan Shih K'ai. It
was the Prince Pu Lun. Walking alone and unattended,
the representative of the Chinese Imperial Family had
come to bring its felicitations to the President of the new
Republic! For the first time since the abdication, the
Imperial Family was taking notice of him who had
replaced them in power."
Every Inch a Prince
There is unquestionably something in being born to
the purple. Pu Lun has the air of a prince. Everything
about him bespeaks royalty. One would never mistake
him for just an ordinary citizen. Yet personally he is the
most modest of men. When Mr. Harrison said to him
that we had heard with regret of the old Empress' deci-
sion to make the present young Prince Imperial her heir,
and that we had often talked of him and of what the
years might bring to China could he himself have con-
trol, he replied : " I have no regrets. China is far better
as a republic. I fear that I should never have had the
power even as ruler to execute my desires for China (he
is a progressive), so, what might my regime have brought
to her? No. The loss of any possible power or honor
which I might have had has never caused me the least
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 191
regret." This answer, spoken with the simple dignity of
the real aristocrat, is characteristic of the man.
Mr. Harrison told him that he still had the decoration
which the Empress had bestowed upon him, the Order
of the Dragon, the highest honor which she could bestow
upon a foreigner. He seemed pleased with this bit of
information. My husband did not think it necessary,
however, to explain that the only reason he had it was
that it did not arrive until he had left public life and
became once more a private citizen. While in office he
had refused all decorations. The one which I have always
felt hurt him most to refuse was that of the Legion of
Honor, tendered him by an official on behalf of the
French government. Americans in office have made it
the unwritten law to refuse all such honors, and although
some do accept, he always declined. For this same rea-
son he refused to accept the German Emperor's offer
(a high honor) of the Red Eagle. But this gorgeous
Chinese dragon did not arrive until he had been out of
office for more than a month. So far as I am able to
recall, the only good it has ever done him was to impress
a very high-class Chinese cook which we had one winter
in California. At first this man was very haughty both
in appearance and manner. But the awe on his face
when he saw that decoration was sublime. We were ever
afterward treated by the pigtailed gentleman with the
most profound respect.
192 All the Way 'Round
Off for the Ming Tombs
We arose one morning at the usual unearthly hour to
take a six o'clock start for the Ming tombs. Rumors of
war were becoming stronger, fighting getting closer every
day. Many of the timid had already left China without
making any attempt to see these wonderful tombs. But
it had been disappointment enough to us to miss seeing
that of Confucius, and we determined that we were not
going to miss these. On this especial morning it was
raining pretty hard. Undeterred, we donned rain-coats
over our heavy wraps, for it was biting cold. We reached
Nankow at about twelve. Half an hour later, wrapped
in waterproofs (it was still raining), we set off for the
tombs. Our chairs had canvas covers, and there were
four bearers for each of them. As the canvas covered
only the top, it was little protection, and although we had
fur rugs we were nearly frozen. The wind was high.
The rain blew in from the sides. All of us had sore
throats from the Peking dust. But we all decided that it
was Christian Science day for us. We were going to the
Ming tombs, colds or no colds.
The eleven miles of country which we crossed were
for the most part desert, but the mountains fringing the
sands were superb, seen through the mist. Occasionally
we passed a small village, but we were too wet and
uncomfortable to take much interest in it. After a few
hours' ride we arrived at the pdilow, and when we got
Grounds of the Temple of the
Universe, Peking
Entrance to the Temple of the
Green Clouds. Peking
Marble Pagoda near the Jade
Fountain, Peking
Grounds of the Temple of the
Green Clouds, Peking
Temple of Prayer, Peking
Entrance to the Lama Temple, Peking
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 193
out of our chairs to examine it we promptly forgot our
discomfort and stood in admiration. Its arches are
superbly carved, the figures of lions and dragons splen-
didly done, all in stone, of course. What a fine concep-
tion of the artistic and beautiful had that old Ming em-
peror who designed this entrance to the tombs! The
Mings, by the way, were the last native Chinese emperors.
And the great grievance of China, underlying all her
agitation and unrest, is really the fact that for three
centuries their country has been ruled, not by the Chi-
nese themselves but by the alien Manchus. What a story
of oppression and wrong it is ! Dr. Sun Yat Sen, more
courageous than the rest of his people, gave it out a few
years later in a perfect flood of literature which reached
the uttermost parts of the earth, and prepared the minds
not only of China but of the friends of China all over the
world for the death of the oldest empire in existence
and the birth of a young republic.
"A Kingly Setting for Royalty "
On one side of the pailow a broad, open roadway
stretches away for miles and miles, straight to the city
of Peking. On the other side, equally straight, is a road
of three miles leading to the thirteen tombs of the Ming
dynasty. Back of that semi-circle of tombs the moun-
tains lift themselves as a background. What a kingly
setting for royalty, even, to lie in! This approach to
194 All the Way 'Bound
the tombs is called the Holy Way. It is most impressive.
One enters a wonderful avenue of beasts and men —
colossal lions, horses, elephants, and other animals;
equally colossal figures of warriors and priests, per-
fectly carved of granite and stone. Each of the tombs
is on the side of a mountain, therefore conspicuous before
it is reached.
The finest of the tombs is that of Yung Lo, who died
in 1424. As it is practically impossible for one to visit
all the tombs (they are a mile or two apart), it is this
one which is usually inspected. Both the gateway and
the tomb itself are splendid pieces of work, but I am told
that the greatest of the Mings was really buried under
the huge mound back of the palace, that all his furniture
and personal belongings are walled up in the palace and
have never been opened since his death. One feels how
limited is one's vocabulary when standing before such
edifices as these. Magnificent, impressive, imposing —
how tame the words sound when viewing some archi-
tectural wonder which one has come across the whole
world to see! All the way back to the hotel we could
think of no adjectives sufficiently descriptive to express
what we had that day seen. We arrived after dark, half-
frozen and weary, but happy — after a stiff Kentucky
toddy which my husband made us and which warmed us
up nicely. In spite of the hard beds we certainly slept
the sleep of the just that night and were nicely rested
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 195
by morning and ready for the road once more.
A View of the Great Wall
The next day was bright and sunny. It was my hus-
band's birthday, and we decided to celebrate by going
to the Great Wall. We felt in fine feather and made an
early start. We took the train from Nankow to Chin-
lungchiao. This is a station for the Wall. We found the
city filled with hundreds and thousands of visitors, all
of whom had come to see the unveiling of a statue. We
also saw the unveiling of that statue. It was unique.
It was the first time I had ever seen a man carved in
stone wearing evening dress!
The Great Wall, as everybody knows, is one of the
Seven Wonders of the World. It begins at Shan-hai-
Quan, by the sea, runs across the northern boundary of
China proper, crosses the Desert of Gobi, just south of
Thibet. One can but pause once more, and wonder at
the civilization which must once have existed in China
when he looks at this marvelous structure. Think what
it meant to build this Wall. It took a million men ten
years to build it, and an army of a hundred thousand to
protect them while they worked. The outer pavings are
of sun-dried brick, and the Wall was built two hundred
years before Jesus of Nazareth was born. It is fifteen
hundred miles long now, fifty feet wide and thirty-five
feet high. Formerly it was seventeen hundred miles
196 All the Way 'Round
long, but that portion of it which ran from Peking to the
sea has been destroyod. Even the most hardened trav-
eler, who has seen the sights of interest of the whole
world, is thrilled when he stands before this architectural
marvel. One must remember, in connection with it, that
it was conceived and carried out without the aid of any
foreign country. The Chinese themselves successfully
planned and built those steep grades and sharp curves,
solving themselves all the difficult problems always to be
met in such an undertaking. Who can stand unmoved
before it? Chinese history says little about this wonder-
ful Wall. All we know is that it was constructed to keep
out the Tartars. We of the present day stand before it
in admiration and awe, feeling that it must have been
built for more than one thing. It stands today an ever-
lasting monument to the once-brilliant civilization of the
five-thousand-year-old empire of China.
One of our great disappointments was that we could
not make satisfactory arrangements to visit the tomb of
Confucius. This country, which is absolutely dominated
by the teachings and the influence of the great philoso-
pher, is seemingly indifferent as to his tomb. One would
naturally expect that it would be one of the show places
of the land and that it would be made easy of access.
But not so. It is an extremely hard trip to the Sacred
Mountain, Tai Shan, in Shantung; and Chufou, also, the
home of Confucius, is just as difficult to reach. With the
Winter Palace, Peking
A scene at the Winter Palace, Peking
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 197
war closing in around us, anxious to utilize our every
moment, we reluctantly gave it up. Timid friends were
daily leaving us, turning their faces homeward, and when
some of the trains were turned back, they, aghast at our
indifference, got away by motor. But we had dined with
our American minister, his charming family, his able
assistant, Mr. R — , the first secretary. As long as
they were willing for Americans to remain we decided to
stay.
Exploring the Attractions
This beautiful state dinner, by the way, is one of the
most delightful memories we carried away from China
with us. In the midst of a profusion of spring flowers,
in a gathering of notables, we sat down to a wonderful
dinner. Mrs. Wood, wife of the governor-general of the
Philippines, was a guest of Mrs. Schurman and was vis-
iting at the Legation, a fact which added much to our
pleasure. The next day the wife of the first secretary
gave a charming luncheon at which we met more inter-
esting people, both American and Chinese, living in
Peking. With these delightful gaieties, together with our
sight-seeing, we forgot the war clouds and gave ourselves
up to enjoyment. We calmly and thoroughly explored the
shops, bazaars, temples, palaces, gardens, artificial lakes,
and all the other beauties of Peking. True, we were con-
stantly warned of the ominous quiet which preceded the
Boxer outburst, and were reminded more than once that
198 All the Way 'Round
that tragedy might have been averted had the Legation
been a little more alert. We replied that China was now
a republic and that that old she-devil, Tsze Hsi, the Em-
press Dowager, was no longer alive to instill into the
minds of her people hatred toward foreigners.
What a wonderful creature that wicked woman was !
What a mind, what an intellect, what a memory was hers.
What determination she displayed ! She was one of the
emperor's beautiful concubines, but after she became the
mother of his only son he put her in a position second
only to the empress. So great was the power she wielded
over him, and so marked was her ability that she was
really the empress for twelve years after his death. In
fact, she was the real ruler of China from 1861 to 1908,
nearly half a century, and no matter how one views her,
her ability must be acknowledged. True, she was a devil,
a fiend. She murdered, killed, and swept out of her way
those who interfered with her schemes and ambitions.
She was accused even of the murder of the emperor
who gave her all power, and of that of her only child,
the heir apparent. She spared no one except the reputed
lover of her youth, Jung Lyn. To him she was always
faithful. She made his grandson emperor, sweeping aside
all the other rightful heirs to the throne. Standing in
her wonderful and gorgeous palaces, examining her many
priceless treasures, we tried our best to visualize this
royal vixen as she really was.
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 199
I heard a good story of this royal lady while in Peking.
She was mad, it seems, to have a ride in a motor. She
had seen and admired the swift, quiet motion of the cars
and had bought many, but she died within sight of the
promised land. The government was still struggling with
the problem of how to teach the chauffeur to drive on his
knees (of course he could not sit down in the royal pres-
ence!) when she departed this life.
Ancestors and Coffins
They say that anybody can be happy in Peking. So
many and so varied are the interests there. To those who
love the temples the pagodas are, of course, a wealth of
pleasure. Many of them are falling into decay, but they
are still beautiful. Like the pagodas of India, these also
are erected as a sort of propitiatory offering to the gods,
for the purpose of bringing good luck to the builders.
The strangest thing to me in the ancestor worship of
China is this. Their ancestors, seemingly, are a series of
demons. Their every sacrifice is for the purpose of pro-
pitiating them, to prevent, as it were, their return to do
them evil ! It seems never to occur to them that if they
can really return and harm them they might also return
and help them. This view, however, they never recognize.
So far as my observation went, the principal piece of
furniture in China is a coffin. These are scooped out of
logs and are kept many years before death. After death
200 All the Way 'Round
the body is left exposed (sometimes, by the poorer class,
for months) until the time shall be propitious for burial.
They study the elements, the stars, etc., to ascertain when
this shall be. The rich rent a room in which the body is
kept, and often priests are paid as high as ten dollars a
day to ascertain by the means mentioned just when the
propitious hour for burial shall be. We saw one of these
coffins which had been kept for twenty-five years, the
priests receiving daily their stipulated sum, unable (no
doubt because of the good income) to find the proper
time.
The idea is being promulgated that the binding of the
women's feet is passing. We saw much evidence that it
still exists. The sight of babies screaming with pain,
and otherwise pretty women hobbling about was quite
common. Other and older women, rich and fat, come to
the temples, either hobbling on their crippled feet or
being carried on the backs of their coolies. Of all cus-
toms this is certainly the silliest. It is said to have origi-
nated from the fact that one of the emperor's favorite
concubines was club-footed, and to honor her the other
women of the court had their feet crippled.
Where Man Is Lord Supreme
Although there is no caste in China the lot of the
Chinese woman is scarcely less enviable than that of the
Indian woman. The small-footed real wife is often neg-
in -T-
Drum Temple, Peking
Grounds of the Summer Palace, Peking
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 201
lected for the large-footed concubine whom her husband
chooses. Though he cannot put away his legal wife, as
can the Indian man, usually he neglects her, traveling
about openly with the one he prefers. The wife has no
redress whatever. Public opinion permits the Chinese
man to conduct himself as he chooses. He is monarch of
all he surveys. In these days of enlightenment it seems
a sad thing that the lot of the Chinese woman does not
improve. Often she is beautiful, educated, and refined.
Her whole life is to please her husband, no matter how
dissolute, unfaithful, or unkind he may be.
There is no woman movement in China. That this is
so makes every other woman who visits the country
fighting mad. Should the Chinese women ever demand
their rights, what a debt the men of the country would
have to pay ! The oriental view is that woman is much
happier under their system — that she is to bear the chil-
dren, keep the house and be contented with what little is
allotted her. But the sordid life she is forced to lead fills
me with indignation. When the thought of a nation is
that the more wives and the more children a man has the
more he shall be respected, what argument can possibly
be brought forth in behalf of woman? The boy is the
whole thing in China. To have a male child is the greatest
honor in the land. Though the slaughter of infant girls
is not so universal as formerly, there is still plenty of it
going on. The "girl towers," as they were called, are
202 All the Way 'Round
still in existence. An object, however small, dropped into
one of these towers could never be gotten out, and into
them the superfluous girl babies were once placed by the
thousands. Think of it ! The practice is now forbidden,
but the towers are still there.
Advised to Leave City
Our weeks in Peking were flying. So rapidly did the
time pass that we began to realize that we must really
say good-bye to the city's fascinations if we wished to
catch our steamer for America. We still had friends to
see, but we knew now that we ought to get out of China.
The two fighting generals, Wu-pei-Fu and Chang-Tso-
Ling, were still struggling for control. They were tearing
up railroad tracks daily, turning back trains, and at last
we were advised to leave.
Dr. Sun Yat Sen, the great reformer, is very quiet.
Neither he nor the President of China, Hsu Chi Chiang,
seemingly, had anything to say. The papers rarely men-
tioned either of them. But the two fighting generals were
greatly in evidence.
Most reluctantly we bade adieu to our friends and to
this wonderful old city. We could not afford to miss the
boat and thus disappoint our children in Chicago. Our
last day was spent with Mr. and Mrs. A — , of the Lega-
tion, in the home they loved best, an old temple which
they had fixed up a bit so that it could be occupied for
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 203
week-ends and short holidays. Mr. A— had just been
ordered back to Washington, so they were spending the
last of their stay in China in this delightful old place. It
was some ten miles out of Peking, and, though small, was
exquisite in detail. It had an adorable setting in pretty
grounds, amidst lovely trees, and the usual mounds —
ancestral graves — were there, of course. Beyond, far in
the distance, was the outline of the western hills. It was
a charming picture that we brought away with us of these
young people resting here in their vacation hours, devo-
ting themselves to outdoor life before saying good-bye to
China.
Beauties of the Great River
I cannot leave this country without speaking of the
Yang-tse-kiang, the Great Eiver. It runs westward
through China to the Himalayas, dividing the country into
North and South China. Its channels are fifteen fathoms
deep. It is fed by numberless small creeks. It is three
thousand miles long, navigable for eight hundred. It is
one of the most majestic of streams. The grandest river
gorges in the world are on the Yang-tse. We crossed it a
few times, but to our regret we could not travel on it to
any extent because of the fighting. Passengers were not
taken on the river while we were in China. The Chinese
will not rescue a drowning person from the Yang-tse.
The superstition is that the Spirit of the Yang-tse is
claiming a soul, and that interference would cause the
204 All the Way 'Kound
Spirit great offense. The current of the river is very
swift, therefore one who falls in the stream is always lost.
Despite the criticism (which is omnipresent), China
seems to be prospering and the republic with her. At
least the people are beginning to acquire confidence in
themselves, something they have never had before. The
World War helped China to prosper, and for this the
republic gets the credit. The number of those who yearly
died of starvation has been greatly reduced, and even this
seems to them like prosperity. Though, from our stand-
point, China is still terribly poor, she is constantly im-
proving, and as luck is with the republic it will surely
stand. When Dr. Sun started in on his work of building
an ideal republic he was farsighted, as any one who has
watched his progress must admit. There are those
Chinese who still hold that the young emperor will yet
be returned to the throne. But few believe them. Even
if he should be returned he would not last long. He would
be put out of the way very speedily. The people want
the republic. And the republic they will have !
Disease the Bane of China
But physical stamina is dependent upon mental reac-
tion, and poor China, with its tornado of disease, is in a
deplorable state, just like the rest of the Orient. There
are many splendid types in China, but very few old men.
People rarely live beyond seventy. Someone has dilated
Hall of Classics, Peking
Gateway to the Hall of Classics, Pekin<
Holy Way to the Ming Tombs, Peking
An elephant figure, Holy Way, Peking
The Quadruple-Walled City of Peking 205
at length on strengthening the Chinese army. It will
never be accomplished without a general house-cleaning,
the wiping out of disease, and general sanitation. Dysen-
tery is the monster of this country. In terror of it, every
white man wears a flannel band over his stomach at night.
Often they laugh about it, saying that they do not believe
it necessary. But they wear it just the same. Smallpox
is everywhere. The Chinese call it the Heavenly Flower !
They will not vaccinate themselves, but require vaccina-
tion of all foreigners. Typhoid claims many. Cancer,
leprosy, eye trouble flood the country, and nearly every-
body has intestinal bacteria. Hookworm in the Far East
is universal. One drawback to improved sanitation in
China is that the people have no sense of proportion.
They will sit down to eat their food amidst the most
filthy surroundings. They can spread their table above
a cess-pool, and seemingly it does not disturb them in
the least. The Rockefeller hospital in Peking, said to be
the finest institution in the world, is working wonders for
China's health. Here our friend, Dr. D— of Chicago,
deserted us. He is a noted surgeon, nationally famous,
and is giving his splendid talent and experience for one
year, teaching and demonstrating in this wonderful
hospital.
Whether China will ever become modernized is a ques-
tion. But after sleeping for forty centuries, she is
aroused. The great difference between the Occident and
206 All the Way 'Round
the Orient is a mental difference. It is too tremendous
for any change to be other than slow. To change oriental
thought into occidental reason is a task almost too colossal
to contemplate. In time it may be possible, but it will take
time, and a long time at that.
CHAPTER XVII
MANCHUBIA, HER RELATION TO CHINA; KOREA, HER UNREST
AND HOSTILITY TO JAPAN
OFF for Mukden and the beautiful scenery of Man-
churia ! The story of the relation of Manchuria to
China is most interesting, the rise of the Manchu dynasty
more like romance than fact. There was no Manchu
Empire in the sixteenth century. The people were just
wild, uncultured barbarians, living in caves and con-
stantly at war with the other tribes. But about 1616 one
of these rulers of a barbaric tribe collected an army of
men, built himself a palace and really started on the road
to civilization. His name was Nurhachu. He was given
the title of Ying Ming and was the Great Ancestor. He
made Mukden his capital and was the founder of the
Manchu dynasty. From him came the powerful Manchu
family which for so long ruled over China.
Reason for Walled Cities
Even after they conquered China, or rather after they
had captured the capital, Peking (to this day they have
never really conquered the Chinese people!), they were
still just a horde of savages, and, although for centuries
they imposed their yoke upon the Chinese, the latter, to
207
208 All the Way 'Round
a man, hated them cordially — a hatred which continues
to this day. Finally, with the lapse of time, the Manchus
grew weaker in their own country. They knew that the
Chinese hated them, and this accounts for the fact that
almost every Manchu city is a walled city, especially if it
lies within a Chinese city, as often happens. Wherever
they have congregated in any appreciable numbers they
have always walled themselves in. But in time their
power in China became absolute and they furnished her
with that wonderful and wicked old Empress, Tsze Hsi,
the last of the imperial reign.
One thing is interesting to note. The Manchus im-
posed their dress completely upon the Chinese. After
three centuries, the Manchu women still wear the pic-
turesque headdress of their own country, and a heel in
the middle of their shoes. They are easily distinguish-
able from the Chinese women, although it is now difficult
to tell a Manchu man from a Chinaman. One of the
symbols of degradation imposed upon the Chinaman by
the Manchus was the wearing of the queue. Now, how-
ever, both Manchu and Chinaman cut it, and they look
very much alike.
I am told that the women are quite progressive in
Mukden, that they take active interest in the hospital
established there by the missionaries, an institution which
has prospered and been helped by both Chinese and
Japanese.
A young Lama priest, Peking In summer attire, Peking
On a country road
The Great Wall of China
Another view of the Great Wall
Manchuria and Korea 209
Train Ride a Nightmare
When we took train for Mukden we were told that
we should be at our destination the next evening at eight
o'clock. Alas, we little dreamed of the horrors before us !
The train was packed. Sixty Americans were said to be
on board, although I do not know whether this number is
correct. There certainly were many. Like ourselves,
they, too, had been told that it was time when we should
all be asked to leave China. The day after we departed,
our American minister, Mr. Schurman, issued the proc-
lamation asking all Americans who were not obliged to
remain to leave Peking. So, in consequence, the train was
packed. Well-to-do Chinese were fleeing with their treas-
ures in the attempt to save them in case of war. The
dining car was filled with men, sleeping and coughing.
One entrance was enough. We did not go near it again.
We purchased some fruit, and we had learned to carry
crackers and cheese and some wine in case of necessity.
Our small compartment was most uncomfortable. From
the American standpoint, the Chinese trains are the worst
ever, and as hygiene and cleanliness play absolutely no
part in their lives, we suffered intolerably. One dressing
room on each car (which must be shared by both men and
women) made it impossible for any American woman to
enter it.
But the scenery was beautiful. We crept up the moun-
tain, twisting and turning as we climbed, finding new
210 All tlie Way 'Round
beauties at every height. The mountain sides were cov-
ered with a glorious pink bloom. It was late in April and
the spring flowers were many and gorgeous; a superb
carpet of deep rose seemed to dominate the color scheme,
as had the yellow Chinese cabbage that of the country we
had just left.
Not Easily Converted
Chosen is a country abounding in gold. It has also
excellent coal beds and other minerals. As these resources
have scarcely been touched, there is much talk of a day
when things will boom here. Chosen is also the sixth
largest cotton-producing country in the world. The
people are diligent and peaceful and it seems that a bright
future is before them. The missionaries, however, report
that theirs has not been an easy task in Chosen. The
natives do not easily accept the gospel of Christ, and the
Catholic priests have often been martyrs in their en-
deavor to teach them the truth. One old French priest
told me that his life here had been full of misery. A
similar story was told me in Japan. A Belgian priest said
that the Japanese were the most difficult of any people to
Christianize. " They will be nice to you, even friendly
and courteous," he said, " but no amount of kindness or
gratitude for it will bring them to you to be baptized. To
receive the faith they must be convinced. Once convinced,
they are the finest Christians on earth; but oh," he sighed,
" the work is so slow, so slow. I get terribly discouraged ! "
Manchuria and Korea 211
We were told of a curious disease which visited Man-
churia in 1910 and 1911. It was called pneumonic plague,
and it became a deadly epidemic. Forty-four thousand
cases were reported, and there were forty-four thousand
deaths. Not a single recovery was recorded! The
Chinese authorities in Mukden, together with the mission-
ary doctors, worked hard and with gratifying success to
prevent the spread of the disease. A national conference
was held later in Mukden to investigate the nature of the
disease and to devise methods to prevent a recurrence.
Another Ghastly Night
We did not reach Mukden at eight the next night, as
we had been informed that we should. Instead, we got
there at five A. M. — after two nights on the road. It
was a rough night experience. We could not even obtain
a pillow. All during the day on the train we were told
constantly we would reach Mukden at eight that evening,
but we soon saw that it was impossible. We were getting
later and later, being constantly held up while the troop
trains passed. At last we asked to have the berths made
up so that we could lie down and rest. There was no
linen, nothing, in fact, to make them up with. All the
bedding had been taken from the train. So we sat bolt
upright until five o'clock the next morning when, the last
troop train having passed, we were permitted to enter
Mukden. That ghastly trip out of China ! We shall never
212 All the Way 'Round
forget it. At Mukden we had just two hours to change all
baggage, trunks, etc., and get a train before eight for
Chosen. To add to the discomfort of the train trip, we
were all fighting colds and headaches. By the time we
reached Korea we were nearly dead.
"All things come to him who waits ! " Finally we
reached Seoul and stopped at its splendid hotel. It
seemed as if we had reached heaven! It is charmingly
situated and has a wondrous view of the mountains. The
Korean men are a curious sight. They wear long white
linen dusters and tall stove-pipe hats. Lingering in these
comfortable quarters, we relaxed and tried to regain our
poise and cheerfulness, both of which had abandoned us
during that mad flight from China. Wise hotel man, this
proprietor, who chose this spot on which to build. One
of the most exquisite of the temples in the whole of Korea
is right on the hotel grounds. No matter how weary one
is, he cannot but rest here.
Color Notes in Seoul
Seoul is a beautiful city. It is encircled by lofty hills
of granite the color of which changes at different hours
of the day. Sometimes they are pure gold, sometimes the
deepest blue. These high mountains about the city give
the impression of a walled town. Seoul is a mass of
color. The women dress most picturesquely, wearing
brilliant coats of lettuce or apple green with scarlet
A gateway, Seoul
A street scene, Seoul
White Buddha, Seoul
Manchuria and Korea 213
streamers. These coats fall from their heads to their
knees, and they wear a small white cap. This queer
get-up, it is said, was intended originally as a garment
for men. It is now universally worn by the women, how-
ever, while the men stick to their white linen dusters and
small, black, stove-pipe hats. We saw a few women in
short white coats and baggy trousers, but the striking
note in the Korean bazaar is the scarlet streamer and
the coat of apple green.
There is not much to be seen in Seoul. It has a mu-
seum, a zoo, and a palace. We had the feeling while we
remained here that we were really in Japan. And we
were ! Although Japan denies it, she really has annexed
Korea. The best Japanese friend the Koreans had was
Prince Ito, yet it was a Korean who murdered him. The
criminal was taken to Japan for trial. He faced the
death sentence calmly, but he was engaged in writing a
poem when sentence was passed upon him. The Japanese
government kindly gave him time to finish it.
The hatred of the Koreans for Japan is deep-seated
and not without reason. They cannot forgive the cruel,
inhuman killing in 1895 of their beloved empress, Min.
When she was dragged from the palace into the streets
by the Japanese soldiery, their intention was to pour oil
upon her and burn her to death. Many still believe this
to have been the manner of her end. Her ladies, in the
attempt to save her, closed in around her, each declaring
214 All the Way 'Round
herself to be the empress, and many of them meeting death
in this horrible manner. It is claimed by many that the
empress died also in this way, although others tell that
she escaped to the apartments of the emperor, whither
they followed her and, although it was the middle of the
night, put her to the sword. "Whatever the manner of her
death, it certainly took place at the hands of the soldiers
of Japan.
Attending a Korean Wedding
"We made a trip many miles out into the country,
passing beautiful scenes on the way, to see the White
Buddha, a curious and enormous figure of the god painted
on a rock. The mountains here are magnificent. W 7 e
made the trip partly by motor and partly by 'ricksha.
As we were returning, attracted by the festive appear-
ance of a little village, we stopped. The people were
very friendly. They told us that there was to be a wed-
ding and invited us to accompany them. We did so, and
that Korean wedding proved a joy to our eyes in its riot
of color and its curious ceremony. In the central room
of the house stood a charming young girl, the bride. She
faced an older woman, her mother. The guests, arrayed
in every color of the rainbow, with gifts in their hands,
lined the walls. The bride was in the native costume, a
combination of red, black, and yellow. She wore a very
high headdress, with combs and jeweled pins. Her arms
were laden with jewels, bracelets, etc. In the center of
Manchuria and Korea 215
the room, in an open space, was a small altar. Soft music
began. The girl started slowly dancing, the mother clap-
ping her hands in time to the soft music and singing a low
chant. As the girl danced around the altar the mother
kept close to her. The guests now came slowly forward,
placing their gifts upon the altar. Really, it was a beau-
tiful sight, and, although everybody was pressing forward
to see, they put us ahead, showing us plainly that we
were welcome. The groom, by the way, was nowhere in
sight. I believe he was to arrive later, but we could not
wait to see him.
Off to Catch the Steamer
The journey from Seoul to Fusan is through lovely
cultivated country, everywhere varied by hill scenery.
Wheat, rice, barley, beans, millet, and other cereals grow
here in profusion, and mingling with them was the ex-
quisite green of the mountains and the delicate pink of
the azaleas. It is a twenty-hour ride, but we had a com-
partment to ourselves and were comfortable. Everybody
on earth, it seems to me, smokes except ourselves ! And
that compartment, tiny as it was, was most agreeable.
We could close the door and open the windows and be
happy. Outside, clonds of smoke everywhere, and every
window closed.
Fusan is really a beautiful spot, an ideal situation for
a harbor. The bay itself is surrounded with high hills,
showing splendid cultivation of fruit trees and gardens.
216 All the Way 'Round
The harbor contains an island which has a channel on
either side, permitting boats to pass each way. Fusan has
many Shinto shrines. The constant ringing of bells
reminded us that the worshipers were being summoned to
their deities, but we had no time for further sight-seeing.
It was already late in the afternoon, dark was approach-
ing, and we were to sail at eight sharp. We had quite
enough to keep us busy gathering up our belongings (of
which, alas, we had as much as the ordinary tourist, eight
or ten pieces, not to mention a typewriter and a medicine
chest), so we were forced to close our eyes to the beauties
of Fusan and think of practical necessities.
w
CHAPTER XVIII
IN THE LITTLE PEOPLE'S COUNTRY — LOVELY JAPAN
E WERE waiting for the three-thousand-ton Jap-
anese ship which was to take us across to Shimono-
seki, but before we boarded her we were to have a some-
what exciting experience. It was after seven o'clock at
night. The boat was to sail in half an hour. Mrs. H — ,
a very pretty little widow from Milwaukee, in her early
twenties, came up to us crying, and in great excitement
told us that her companion and friend had disappeared
with their guide, with whom they had been having trouble.
They had been gone more than an hour and she was
terribly alarmed.
Her friend, like herself, a pretty young woman and
from the same city, had gone with the man to change
some money with which to pay and dismiss him. The
guide had been engaged by them for the six weeks travel
in Japan, but during the few days that they had had him
he had robbed them right and left, and they had decided
to dismiss him. American girls cannot be browbeaten in
any country. This man, highly recommended by the
hotel, had been most impertinent and had shown a dis-
tinctly ugly fight, telling them that they had no right to
discharge him. Things in the Orient are quite different
from those at home. Two older women might have done
this same thing, but doubtless they would have managed
more diplomatically. They had engaged him for the six
217
218 All the Way 'Round
weeks and their method of getting rid of him was a bit
high-handed. In this country it is not at all unusual for
a woman to disappear. It pays to be cautious and not to
quarrel.
Search for the Missing Woman
While recognizing the force of the argument of this
pretty little woman in her despair over her friend, and
the justice of her appeal to my husband's sympathetic
instincts, I was filled with consternation at the thought
of his abandoning me on this ship, in a strange land the
language of which I do not speak ; yet my higher nature
kept me from remonstrating. They went together to
look for her. As they disappeared I became sufficiently
collected to appeal to the Japanese English-speaking cap-
tain, although with little hope that he would do anything
for me. To my surprise, however, he was very much con-
cerned, saying that for a young woman to have gone alone
with such a man and on such an errand was a terrible
thing, that grave responsibilities lay in her act. He said
he would hold the boat as long as he dared and in the
meantime he would send a messenger to one or two places
where he thought there might be a possibility of locating
them.
The messenger had scarcely disappeared when back
came the young woman and the guide in smiling conver-
sation. They had gone miles before they had been able
to change the money, which accounted for the long delay.
Museum, Seoul
Entrance to the Museum, Seoul
In the Little People's Country 219
A handsome tip at the moment of dismissal had appeased
the guide's wrath and he had courteously escorted her
back to the boat. Then — it was my turn to be terrified.
What had become of my husband and the young widow!
Would they get back before the boat sailed I I was almost
distracted, and just as the young lady and I had decided
to get off the boat bag and baggage and await their return
they came in sight, very much disturbed that the young
woman had not been found. I will pass over the meeting
between the latter and the pretty widow. Frightened as
she had been for the last hour, I did not blame her for
the hysterical outburst against her friend.
At the Itsuku Shrine
We had a frightfully rough passage. Almost every-
body was seasick, but we are good sailors and, although
not altogether comfortable, we did not succumb. The
next morning, at Shimonoseki, we took a train to Miya-
jima, one of the three show places of Japan. The Itsuku
shrine is a marvel of beauty. The island is sacred. No
vehicles, not even a 'ricksha, are permitted upon it, and
no one is allowed to die on it — the sick are removed.
Only the people who are there for the upkeep of the island,
a few little stores, and one or two hotels are upon it. One
of the finest things in Japan is the Torii, 1 and perhaps
*A gateway of light skeleton-like post-and-lintel construction, built at
the approach to sacred places.
220 All the Way 'Round
the most beautiful one in the whole country, is in front
of the temple here. These Torii are before the gates to
the temples, and this one is more often photographed
perhaps than any other in the land. At high tide it is half
submerged in water. Thousands of Japanese stone lan-
terns are all over the island, and it is said that at festival
time it is the most beautiful spot in the world.
We saw here many quaint Japanese houses reminding
us of those in the opera, Madame Butterfly. The women
are diminutive. They sit about on the floor, and every-
thing is so clean and inviting. Cleanliness, by the way, is
typical of Japan. As we went through one of the temples
a priest had some girls come out and give us a wonder-
fully beautiful and graceful dance. These girls are four-
teen or fifteen years old and wear their hair tied down
their backs. They use the fan gracefully and are dressed
in silk, with red skirts, over which a white kimono, lined
with pink and embroidered with gold butterflies is worn.
They are a beautiful sight. As one walks about this
sacred island, which we did for several days, sees the
charming landscape and the wonderful Buddhas (for
which this country is famous), he really gets into the
spirit of Japan.
Exploring in Kioto
Our next stop was Kioto. By the time we reached it
we were thoroughly imbued with the spirit of these very
busy little people, certainly the most industrious on the
In the Little People's Country 221
face of the earth. Dainty, exquisite, and always courteous
as they are, however, the foreigner goes about with a
feeling of distinct uneasiness. Even in the hotels which
are not Japanese (we stayed but once in a strictly Jap-
anese hostelry and it was really a monastery) the parti-
tions are naught but little screens. No matter where we
stayed we could hear them sliding softly in the night, and
we were never without the feeling of being gazed upon.
A friend told me that there was no question that we were
looked upon far oftener than we were aware of — that as
she one day stood ready to take a bath, arrayed just as
she had come into this world, she was looking into the
water into which she was about to plunge, when a voice
from somewhere said : " Lady, that water is not meant to
get into, but to be poured over you."
We certainly saw beautiful things in Kioto, lacquer
work, silks, jewels, Kano screens. These were the things
we had dreamed of seeing when we came to Japan, and
our dream was coming true. We saw here also two or
three brides of the wealthy class. They were always
dressed in three kimonos, one white, one red, and the third
of some darker color always. These are called ceremonial
robes and are as costly as the bride can afford. Unlike
our brides, she never keeps her wedding gown. She never
wears it but once. Some of these beautiful robes may
be purchased occasionally, but they seldom find their way
to America.
222 All the Way 'Round
Music for the Ancestors
A description, or an attempt to describe the temples
of Japan would really be outside the province of a book
of travel. One can but mention them. They would re-
quire a volume for each one. Exquisitely carved, richly
jeweled, their priests in sumptuous robes, the brass gods
— even had one the courage to venture forth upon a
recital of their glories he would never get through. I
will say here, though, that we were initiated into one of
their peculiar superstitions. We were walking through
one of those exquisite gardens for which Japan is famous,
adjoining one of her large temples. I heard faint music
and asked the guide if we might go in and listen. His
answer was, "Decidedly not!" We learned then that-
only the priests can be present when that music is played.
They are amusing the ancestors ! This provision is one
of the regular duties of the priests. On certain days they
amuse the ancestors by music and various other enter-
tainments. I thought of the million or more amusements
which are yearly provided for the living and was some-
what aghast at the thought of attempting to amuse the
dead. What a queer religion!
Here in Kioto we became greatly interested in Kano,
his school of painting and the perfection of his screens,
and in the Hocksai and Heroshigi pictures. For the first
time I appreciated Japanese art. Also we saw here, for
the first time, the work of the celebrated left-handed
Miyajima, one of the show places of Japan
Lanterns at Miyajima
A very pretty Japanese girl
In the Little People's Country 223
sculptor, Hidara-Jingoro, whose work adorned the walls.
We afterwards became thoroughly acquainted with some
of his most famous pieces, among them the cat at Nikko.
A Story of Lafcadio Hearn
We took a beautiful trip through the gorge of the
Hodzu river, passing most beautiful gardens. It was here
in Kioto that we met Burton Holmes, the well-known
traveler and lecturer. With him were two good-looking
young men whom he introduced to us as the sons of
Lafcadio Hearn. As a girl I had known Mr. Hearn very
well. He had been a frequent guest at my mother's house
in New Orleans. And it was there that he got the color
for Chita, a story of an island which once lay in the Gulf
of Mexico. In one of those terrific convulsions of na-
ture — a tidal wave — this island was submerged and
lost. On it at the time were my grandfather, his wife
and children and numberless slaves. It was a summer
resort, and all on the island were lost. The only reason
that my mother and one brother lived was that both were
at college in northern towns. So, perhaps after all, my
fear of the sea is an inheritance. All of his readers
know that Mr. Hearn married a Japanese woman, was
given a Japanese name, and became distinguished in
Japan because of his writings.
In Kioto we saw a wonderful Shinto procession. Mr.
Nishi, our guide in Japan (and certainly the finest guide
224 All the Way 'Round
we ever knew), was familiar with every little custom
of his country, and as an intellectual man could explain
to us the hidden meaning of all the interesting things
which we saw and which otherwise we could not have
understood. Not the least of these were the five canopies
of the Shinto procession, gorgeous, jeweled, flaming with
gold, lacquered, each carried by a hundred coolies. All
drunk with Sake, shrieking, practically naked, with only
a small white garment wrapped about them, they shook
this heavy canopy until it almost turned upside down.
They formed a howling mob and when they saw us they
kowtowed to us — a strange, barbaric sight. As these
canopies containing the gods passed, all the sightseers did
the same. They were very reverential. Behind each
canopy rode priests robed in white silk. The patriotic
shopkeepers placed Sake in the streets and the day was
just given over to drunken revelry.
Parading the Sacred Carp
These Shinto processions last for several days.
Whenever a feast is going on, the city — the whole coun-
try, in fact — is decorated with flags and banners and
beautiful things. One of the most conspicuously beauti-
ful of their banners is that of the fish. The carp
is sacred in Japan. Its life is held up as a
model for the young and they make a lot of cere-
mony over the sacred carp. Therefore the fish banners
In the Little People's Country 225
are used in commemoration and to fire the imagination
of the young. We first saw and admired these lovely
banners in Korea. They range from the tiniest toy size
to a monster fish. They form a riot of color, red, green,
yellow, blue, purple, pink, and sometimes the combina-
tion of all these shades is to be found in the same banner.
They are beautiful things to look at as they float in the
breeze, and when a whole town is festooned with them it
certainly looks gay. "We brought some of them home
with us and intend decorating with them on our next
Fourth of July. The reason the carp is held up as a
model to the Japanese youth is that it is a game, fighting
fish. It always swims against the current.
We arrived in Japan a little late for the cherry sea-
son, but we had seen both the cherry and apricot blossoms
in China and certainly nothing could be more beautiful.
While we were in Kioto, however, we were told that the
last of the cherry dances would be held, so we went one
night to see the Geisha girls dance. It was early in May,
and the dance was as pretty a thing as we had seen in
all our journey.
Woman's Status in Japan
Unlike the other men of the Orient, the Japanese men
go about with their women a great deal. At the theater,
watching the cherry dance, as we were, sat a very pretty
girl whom the guide pointed out to us. She was accom-
226 All the Way 'Round
panied by a Japanese man and his legal wife and chil-
dren, and the man had just announced that the following
week he would take this beautiful creature for his con-
cubine. The terrible question of the contempt in which
the East holds its women was so constantly brought to
mind, that I am quite sure if we had not felt so strongly
upon the subject the constant flaunting of the thing in our
faces would have dulled us. To see a man going about
openly with these women, right in the presence of his
wife and children! The idea of man being faithful to
one woman is a thing a Japanese man cannot understand.
Observing our 'ricksha boys in hot discussion one morn-
ing, I asked Mr. Nishi what it was all about. He was
very much embarrassed and only after much persuasion
could I get him to tell me. No amount of denial from
him could convince these men that my husband's sister,
Mrs. — , of Chicago, who had joined us in China and
was now traveling with us, was not his legal wife, while
I, if you please, was the concubine !
We learned at Kioto that at last the much talked of
war was on in earnest in China. The wounded were
being carried into Peking, which was shut off from the
world because of the tearing up of the railroad tracks
by the warring factions. Our friend, Mr. A — , of the
Legation, started for Washington, we were told, only to
be obliged to turn back. We had no direct communica-
tion with friends and could rely only upon the newspaper
A Buddhist temple, Kioto
ffl
pirn
"H
■ piifiiiiiiiiiiiiniinn^
■i !
jS^^k
1
^N^jjH
\S
mm 1
Ail entrance to a Buddhist temple. Kioto
The most venerated temple is the Kiyomizu-dera
A garden crossing, Kioto
In the Little People's Country 227
reports. But we really were on the last train but one out
of Peking, and felt that we were in luck to have gotten
out when we did, even though we did endure such horror
in doing so.
The Typical Japanese City
Kioto is by far the most interesting city we saw in
Japan. It is called the Rome of the country. Its people
are the most thoroughly Japanese of any that we saw.
Its temples are superb and there is refinement and art
on all sides. As a city it is absorbingly charming. It
loves its art and its artists, and fashions in art are said
to originate here. The imperial palaces, and the Bud-
dhist temples are of the very highest type, while the
metal work, ceramics, fans, dolls, silks, and other stuffs
seem finer here than elsewhere. The streets are clean
and regular. We reveled in its bazaar. Unlike many
Japanese cities, Kioto has lovely suburbs. The imperial
palaces are superb, some of the doors costing as much
as a hundred and sixty thousand gold dollars each. They
are magnificently carved. And the city has a regular
treasure house of lacquer work, brasses, bronzes, and
fine old brocades.
The most venerated temple here is a Buddhist one
called Kiyomizu-dera. It is sacred to the goddess Kwan-
non, goddess of mercy. The view from the hilltop is worth
going miles to see. Two big bronze lions guard the
entrance. In the main building innumerable gods and
228 All the Way 'Round
goddesses guard the eleven-faced, thousand-handed
Kwannon (concealed in the central reliquary), shown
only once in thirty-three years. The treasures in the
museums and the imperial palaces are priceless —
swords, embroideries, kakemonos, makimonos, relics of
celebrated men. There are also many illuminated screens
and manuscripts, wonderfully wrought, and a great deal
of old armor and weapons. But above all things else, we
thought the gold lacquer work of Kioto the loveliest. It
is indescribably beautiful. One cannot conceive of its
beauty by merely seeing a piece of it here and there. He
must see it in Kioto.
Suspicious of Friend Husband
The trip to Amano-Hashidate, one of the three show
places of Japan, was made by my husband alone. For
the first and only time during all our journey I gave out
physically, and though not really sick I was afraid of
that long, dusty trip on the train. Our recent outcoming
from China had upset me to the point of fatigue. So I
decided to rest quietly in lovely Kioto until his return.
I have wished, however, that I had made the effort and
accompanied him, for ever since he came back he has
made my life miserable by asserting and reasserting that
it is the most beautiful spot in all Japan. He dwells at
length and with much emphasis upon a most curious effect
which is obtained by stooping and looking backwards at
In the Little People's Country 229
the strip of land. Well — I shall go back to Japan if for
no other purpose than to look at Amano-Hashidate. I
shall never be happy till I test the truth of his words.
The castle of the former Shogun now belongs to the
Crown Prince. But it is controlled by the government.
It contains superb Kano screens and splendidly carved
peacocks by Hidara-Jingoro. The sweet-toned Chinese
gongs which one hears everywhere are especially pleasing
here. They are lovely in tone and it is a delight to hear
them.
At Nara and Mount Koyo
To beautiful Nara we went, famous for its temples
and its Buddhas, the description of which I leave to the
guide books. Almost everybody knows of the huge sit-
ting Buddha here, eleven hundred years old, black, fifty-
six feet high, two immense gold Buddhas on either side
and eighteen or twenty other and smaller ones surround-
ing him. He sits on a lotus leaf, is made of bronze, but
has thousands of dollars' worth of gold in his admixture.
There is here, also, a five-story Pagoda with a wonderful-
toned bell. It stands under a pine tree and fills anyone
with wonder who goes to see it.
We spent many days here, enjoying the parks, the
gardens and sacred animals, and lingered for hours be-
fore the Daibutsuden in the Kasuga-jinga temple,
founded in 768 A. D. But we feel that the greatest trip
we had in Japan was made from Nara. This was to
230 All the Way 'Round
Mount Koyo, where we spent the night in one of those
Koyasan monasteries. Not one tourist in a thousand
has this interesting experience, and we owe the pleasure
and wonders of the journey there to our guide, Mr. Nishi.
He insisted on our taking this arduous trip. So many
changes of motors, 'rickshas, railroad trains must be made,
and so intolerable is the stench of many of the spots
which we were compelled to pass. These things, of
course, deter the ordinary tourist from attempting such
experiences.
But in spite of all these drawbacks, how glad I am
that we went. This monastery houses one of the most
ancient religious orders, a strange aggregation of celibate
monks. For many years it was a place of refuge for
political prisoners of high rank, and for centuries women
were not permitted to come within shouting distance,
even, of its sacred precincts. Koyasan is now a sort
of miracle-working place. By the faithful it is endowed
with a sanctity more profound, perhaps, than any other
Buddhist community in the empire. Thousands of pil-
grims (of both sexes now) make the ascent annually and
the little town consists entirely of temples, monasteries,
and a few shops which cater to the wants of the tourists.
In addition to fruit and food necessities these little shops
sell rosaries, images of saints, etc. The priests sell in-
dulgences against sickness (especially the smallpox) and
the devil! They derive one of the largest incomes from
A curious effect is obtained by stooping and looking backwards
Amano-Hashidate, the most beautiful spot in Japan
In the Little People's Country 231
the sale of a little sand from one of the sacred mountains.
After the priest has consecrated it, it is supposed to have
the power to make a corpse flexible. A little of it sprin-
kled upon the dead body, they believe, will keep it from
getting stiff. To see so many of these poor pilgrims pay-
ing out their hard-earned savings for these special indul-
gences, and so firmly believing in them, was to me very
pathetic.
A Marvelous Ascent
The steep ascent to the monastery is a thing long to be
remembered. First, we took the train which later we
left for the motor, abandoning the latter for the 'ricksha
in the end. We climbed through splendid forests of
cryptomerias, bamboos, cedars, giant ferns, and a per-
fect tangle of semi-tropical vegetation. Beautiful wild
wisteria climbs to the top of the highest trees. It flaunts
its purple beauty everywhere, and on the lower bushes
crimson berries bloom together with pink and yellow
flowers, the whole making a color scheme of ravishing
beauty. We were constantly passing the pilgrims, climb-
ing at a fair pace. The lame and the blind, of course,
had to be helped, sometimes carried. Children plodded
along beside their mothers, many of whom carried a baby
in their arms. I never saw a man carrying a child. Still,
all were good-natured and seemingly happy. Cheerful-
ness is a characteristic of the Japanese. With the Japan-
ese love of color in their wearing apparel, the sight of
232 All the Way 'Round
these pedestrian pilgrims was wonderfully attractive.
The women wore their brilliant kimonos, every color of
the rainbow. Those of the men were scarcely less radiant.
They made a picture which was unforgettable.
To reach the top one must ascend nearly three thou-
sand feet. The glory and the wonder of that climb ! Up
to about forty years ago no woman could go beyond the
Black Buddha, which is some miles from the monastery.
That this rule has been done away with was evidenced
by the thousands of women whom we saw on their way
there. The cemeteries adjoining the temples contain the
most beautiful trees one can imagine. They resemble
our sequoias. Beneath these glorious trees lie all the
carved monuments of the dead. Innumerable stone lan-
terns are here in this Koyasan necropolis and thousands
of them are lighted at their festivals. A red mark on
any of the tombs indicates that husband or wife is still
living but will eventually lie here also. A large line of
carved gods mark the approach to the temple where the
everlasting fire, lighted eleven hundred years ago, still
burns. We saw this fire. What did we not see in this
beautiful place? Carvings, embroideries, screens,
bronzes — it seemed as if all the wealth of Japan must
be gathered here to charm the eye. There is such a
wealth of material in this little town of Koyo that I longed
to linger. If the gods are willing, I shall certainly go
back.
In the Little People's Country 233
Sleeping Behind Thin Screens
The old monastery in which we slept was charming.
At eight o'clock our beds were made, on the floor, it is
true, but made comfortable by soft, heavy coverlets. Our
rooms were lovely, with sweet-smelling matting and slid-
ing screens painted by the great Kano himself. We
looked out upon a charming garden where twin lakes,
small bridges, tiny walks, and pretty statues, trees, and
flowers met our eyes. A full moon added enchantment.
I was loath to go to bed, not wishing to miss a moment
of it. But we were to be called at five in the morning
for the ceremonies which take place at that hour. We
were served a light supper of rice and bacon, tea and
toast. It was delicious and we retired to enjoy (as we
supposed) a good sleep. But, alas ! Not much sleep for
us. The monastery was filled with rich Japanese who
talked and prayed all night. With only a paper screen
between us, sleep was next to impossible. Moreover, I
am quite sure that several times during the night our
screens were moved, whether by accident or design, I
cannot say. I am sure that there were times during the
night when we were all in one large room together. There
is no privacy in Japan. Several rooms can easily be made
one by merely removing the screens.
However, there are times when one is so weary that
he could sleep on a battlefield. We were all sound asleep
when they came to arouse us next morning. It was a
234 All the Way 'Round
bitterly cold day, and it was a memorable sight to see
that great gathering kneeling and kowtowing before the
Holy of Holies at that early hour. Priests, in superb
robes, were present, and one, the head of the monastery,
sat enthroned in the center of the room, a sort of railing
protecting him from the faithful, who otherwise might
have crowded against him. The faithful, by the way,
were squatting or kneeling in various positions of hum-
bleness while the priests chanted the prayers and the
acolytes burned incense. At intervals the deep tones of
a gong were heard. Every now and then the priest would
turn, face the pilgrims and call out a name. The person
thus called would approach, bow and receive some token
from his hand, indicative of the fact that said pilgrim
had paid down a sum of money for the honor of thus
being called publicly. He thus proclaimed that he was
making offerings for and to his ancestors.
"Tea Money" for the Priests
Before the altar small brass tablets are placed for a
certain length of time, depending, of course, upon the
size of the offering, and while they are there all may
read that the person mentioned has paid money to the
priests for their prayers. It certainly was a remarkable
and interesting performance. I tucked my feet under
me and sat like the Buddhists till the service was over.
There is no charge asked by the monastery for its
Kasuga-jinga Temple, Nara
We constantly passed pilgrims
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Entrance to the Horyu-ji Temple, Xara
In the Little People's Country 235
hospitality, but one is supposed to give "tea money."
We gave all we could afford, and it amounted to several
times the amount of the steepest hotel bill we had ever
had in any country. But I imagine that it was a mere
pittance to those spoiled priests. I was told that many
of the rich Japanese often give five thousand dollars in
gold for a single night's lodging. It seemed unbelievable,
but I found that it was true. Every Japanese tries once
in his life to go to Koyo, and it is a sacred obligation to
give all that his purse can afford for the continuance of
the monastery. Even the poor give largely.
A contrast to Koyosan were the Ise Shrines at Ya-
mada. Here the worship is Shinto. A woman is greatest
of all the gods and is therefore honored most. She is
the Sun Goddess, and, like the proverbial woman, they
have invested her with many of the foibles of her sex.
For instance, they say she is easily frightened. So they
take great pains never to alarm her. She must be always
carefully attended and guarded that she may not be need-
lessly alarmed. One day a leak sprung in the temple
and they were afraid she might get wet. So they put
up a temporary temple to house her while her own was
being repaired. They are great on building new tem-
ples. Any old excuse will start them off building one. It
is a religious rite and insures salvation to him who
builds it.
Instead of repairing the old temple, therefore, it was
236 All the Way 'Bound
decided to build a new one. This would take time, and
meanwhile the goddess must be housed in a temporary
temple. When they were ready to remove her they made
the most elaborate preparations. For days before the
great procession took place, a priest, in robes almost
royal, squatted on a mat on the ground before the temple,
played soft music to soothe and amuse the goddess, told
her every few moments not to get nervous, not to be
alarmed, that when the time came to remove her every
precaution would be taken that she should not be uncom-
fortable in her new home. This music and these prayers
are practically continuous, each priest being relieved in
turn by another, and thus the goddess is coached on the
coming removal.
Early Removal of the Goddess
We saw the performance. Of course, all the faithful
gather also to watch. We had to look over a fence, as no
one but the emperor and the empress are permitted
within the enclosure of the temple. The procession was
to take place at midnight, and the goddess was to be
removed, carried to the other temple, the way to which
had been covered with a wooden roof. It was several
blocks long, gaily decorated with flags and banners.
Thousands of people had gathered to witness the cere-
monies and we intended to be among the number. When
we learned, however, that in order to see it we should
In the Little People's Country 237
have to take our place in the line at five o'clock and stand
until midnight we decided that we could not do it.
But to see the pilgrims, to watch the supposedly edu-
cated priests feeding them with superstitious twaddle,
moves one either to mirth or to sadness, according to
one's temperament. The ceremony of removing the god-
dess must always be held at night, and a representative
of the emperor (a member of his family), must always
be present. We caught a glimpse of this representative.
He was at our hotel. No one else except the Shinto
priests officiate in the procession. A Buddhist priest
never enters this temple. But every Japanese, so our
guide told us, whether Christian or Buddhist, must come
once to the Ise Shrines. The government requires this,
and it has created much feeling among the Christian
Japanese, who object to it strongly. The emperor has
here a private forest where the timber is grown for the
building of temples. In Japan these temples are renewed,
or rather a new one is built, every twenty years.
Fujiyama Behind Clouds
We went to Nagoya, from which place we hoped to
see beautiful Fujiyama. We climbed five long flights of
steps to the arsenal, but Her Majesty's face was hidden in
clouds. She would not smile upon us. So we amused
ourselves watching the maneuvers of the soldiers in the
court, which were very pretty and interesting. Just below
238 All the Way 'Round
my window at the hotel I could look into a house, and
I was appalled at the filthy coverings of the beds, them-
selves quite as dirty, on the floor. The better class of
Japanese are very clean. But the poorer class live like
animals. The poor babies, lying around in that terrible
filth! The odors from the houses — so unbearable that
I had to close my window. And yet — just before I did
so I saw one of these poor, overworked mothers leaning
over her babies, tucking them into the old rags and talk-
ing caressingly to them. Poor and miserable she may
have been, but she had in her heart that divine mother-
love which is the same the world over. My own yearned
over her and her innocent, if untidy, children.
There are lovely grounds around the castle in Nagoya.
It contains some beautiful screens, and on top of the
building are two gold dolphins, really very gorgeous and
placed there for an unique purpose. They are said to
contain over three hundred thousand dollars' worth of
gold, and are kept in public view to let the people know
that should the imperial family ever need money it can
be obtained here at a moment's notice. A queer sort of
bank account, but very pretty ! Ever since the Sun God-
dess — their greatest deity — produced the first emperor
from her left eye the latter has been divine, and on this
beautiful temple where he chooses to put part of his wealth
to melt down into spending gold if necessary, the people
would never commit the sacrilege of theft. They would
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Bier Bell Tower, Nara
Yokushi Bell Tower, Nara
In the Little People's Country 239
fear the divine wrath and they are too superstitious to
incur it. So the bank is absolutely safe. It cannot fail.
Nagoya is certainly a busy spot. No matter at what time
we attempted to enter the shopping district, we never
failed to find it packed and jammed, so that it was almost
impossible to shop. And this is a terrible state of affairs
in Japan where everything is so alluring.
How the Cormorants Fish
From Nagoya we went to Gifu to see the cormorants
fish. Fishing with these birds had been practiced in China
for many years before the Japanese took it up. But
here it has been done since about the eighth century. We
had a wonderful time, for on that same evening some
young Japanese bloods had chosen to take out some
Geisha girls in boats for a frolic. Their little boats, gaily
lighted with lanterns and decorated with flags, were all
about us, and their tinkling guitars made pretty music
across the water. These lovely — if not highly moral —
young women were picturesque and attractive to a degree.
Floating down the river amid all this splendor, we
waited the hour of midnight and the approach of the
fishing boats. The swift current and rapids in the river
are such that at a certain point all the boats tie up to a
sort of rocky island. Here we waited, sometimes walking
about the stony island and sometimes lying at full length
in our own boats chatting. The night was chilly. We
240 All the Way 'Round
had heavy steamer rugs about us. Our little craft was
as gaily decorated as the others, though we lacked the
music. We sat on the floor of the boat to eat our suppers.
Suddenly a signal that the boats were approaching
thrilled us. We got up at once. It was a great sight to
see them coming with their blazing pitch-pine fires in
front of each vessel. These flaming lights attract the fish,
as the lamp does the moth, and the great birds, with rings
about their necks to prevent their swallowing the fish,
dart down and gather in the dazed swimmers as they
crowd toward the light. Each bird has a cord about its
body, and by means of the cord and the ring the head
man manipulates the fishing. Each bird catches from
one to two hundred fish in an hour, according to the length
of his training. When the pouch is full and the neck
terribly distended with the fish, the birds stop diving and
float helplessly about in the water. Then the master
hauls him into the boat, passes his hand swiftly over the
pouch. The bird disgorges and flops down into the water
to begin again. The sight was as queer as it was inter-
esting. Though it was long after midnight and frosty,
we were sorry when it was over.
CHAPTER XIX
THE NATURE-LOVING JAPANESE; BUDDHISM AND SHINTOISM ;
GIFU ; YOKOHAMA
SO ENCHANTED were we with our surroundings that
I am sure not one of us remembered that Gifu is the
center of many earthquakes. On October 28, 1891, one
occurred which killed seven thousand and injured seven-
teen thousand people. Twenty thousand buildings, many
bridges, arches, and miles of railroad track were de-
stroyed. In June of 1896 a tidal wave and earthquake
combined killed thirty thousand more. But I am happy
to record that while we were there Nature behaved herself
very well, and being absorbed in the loveliness about us
we forgot all these unpleasant things.
Flights of the Fireflies
The beautiful river with its high surrounding moun-
tains is very impressive. When we expressed our appre-
ciation of the beauty of the boat-covered river, the music
and merriment, our guide assured us that although it was
attractive nothing could equal in beauty the firefly season
in Japan. At this time everybody comes down to see
these marvelous little insects, carrying their bright lan-
terns through the mountains. Millions of them, like
diminutive night watchmen, flit through and gleam among
the mountains in the early spring, and so beautiful and
241
242 All the Way 'Round
unusual is the sight that the whole of Japan, practically,
takes a vacation to see them. Parties are formed nightly
to come to Gifu and the neighboring spots where these
lovely fireflies roam, and spend the long evenings just
enjoying the gorgeous sight. The winding stream be-
tween the hills, the little sparklers wheeling and circling
in the darkness, the dancing and singing on scores of
illuminated boats— life here appears so joyous! In
reality — is it so? I was told that when the fireflies have
assembled in force, myriads of them dart simultaneously
from either bank, meet and cling together above the water.
They look like a great luminous cloud, or a ball of fire.
Sometimes the cloud scatters, sometimes the ball falls
into the river. The fallen fireflies drift away with the
current, only to be followed instantly by another glitter-
ing swarm. Often people stay on the boats all night to
watch this curious and beautiful phenomenon.
Appreciation of Nature
"With all their reputation for astuteness and diplo-
macy (undoubtedly deserved), the Japanese are great
nature-lovers, and in many ways they are still just simple-
minded children. All their great festivals, seemingly, are
based upon beautiful themes or legends — the cherry-
blossom, the chrysanthemum, the autumn leaf, the firefly.
Why are we Americans so indifferent to such really ex-
quisite things? True, we do play at enjoying them.
'Ricksha teams, Koyasan
Pilgrims to Koyasan monaste
Near the entrance to Koyasan
Kondo or Golden Hall, Koyasan
Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 24c
Individually, we go about gathering the lovely-tinted
autumn leaves and talk about the feathered songsters of
the spring. But who would ever think of inaugurating
days of festivity to celebrate the coining of the first lark
in the spring? Or of stopping work to go to the woods
and gather flowers ? Yet this is common in Japan. It is
done all the time. As we were on our way home, riding
through the low, bottom lands of the river approaching
Kansas City, we thought of Gifu. Never had we seen
so many and such large fireflies. For over two hours
we watched them, constantly increasing in numbers until
when at last we got close to the river, literally swarms
of them were before us. I remembered Gifu and thought
of the wisdom of the Japanese, who had made a festival
of the return of the pretty creatures. I could not help
regretting that in our own splendid country we are so
indifferent to the beautiful in nature and so prosaic when
it comes to indulging in sentiment.
As I look back over my stay in Japan I recall so many
of their customs which are queer but interesting. For
instance, their manner of saying good-bye is unique. In-
stead of shaking your hand they shake their own, bowing
many times, sometimes making the old-fashioned curtsey.
Certainly customs are funny. I presume ours are quite
as queer to them. In Nippon the three most sacred things
are the mirror in Yamada, the jewel which is in Tokyo,
and the sword which is in Nagoya. None of these is
244 All the Way 'Round
ever looked upon by human eyes, for should they be
uncovered disaster would overtake the royal family.
These sacred relics are wrapped in the costliest and most
gorgeous of embroideries, and when the embroidery be-
gins to wear out they renew it, carefully mending it in
such way that the sacred objects covered by it are never
exposed.
The religion of Japan is of two kinds — Buddhism
and Shintoism. The latter is the old national religion —
the worship of the sun and the sun goddess, the originator
and creator of all things. This worship includes thou-
sands of gods, monsters of the imagination, inhabitants
of horrible caves and high mountains, and, of course,
every man's ancestors. All men's ancestors are deified,
because after death one's ancestors become his gods. The
Shoguns are now worshipped as gods. As soon as a ruler
died a splendid monument was erected to him and every-
body went to his tomb to worship, believing that his soul
still lived in the inner shrine of the tomb. The greater
the ruler the finer the temple. The richest temples in the
empire are at Nikko — the tombs of Iyeyasu and Iyemitsu.
These were the founders of the family of the Shoguns
two hundred or more years ago.
Fujiyama in Full View
On our way to visit these temples we decided to go
to Yokohama. We made the trip from there — a beau-
Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 245
tiful ride through the country of the famous Inland Sea.
Wonderful were the views of the Pacific and its shore
line. Paddy-fields and farms under rich cultivation, glo-
rious vistas of mountains and valleys lay all about us,
and here at last we caught a glimpse of Fujiyama, the
world-famous sacred mountain of Japan. And this time
it was a long and beautiful view, for all afternoon that
white-crowned, perfectly-shaped cone was in sight. For
weeks afterward it continued to be distinctly visible, even
after we had departed for home. We had seen it so often
in pictures that when it suddenly burst upon our view the
sight thrilled us to the tips of our toes. We looked back
across the years, recalling Mount Shasta, that kingly peak
of snow in California, and El Misti, overtopping Are-
quipa in Peru. We had seen and loved these mountains.
We had watched them at all times — in the glowing dawn,
under the golden sun of noontide, at twilight and beneath
the glitter of stars. Now as we looked at Fujiyama we
felt that the sacred mountain of Japan would forever
rank in our minds with the other two.
I observed one peculiar thing about Japan's moun-
tain, however. The snow does not seem to be packed
down upon it as is the case with most snow-crowned
peaks. It lies soft and white, like a mantle which has
slipped down the sides as if it had been blown just a bit.
The cone and some feet below it are quite white. But
the side is prettily thinned and there are some green spots
246 All the Way 'Round
showing. Fujiyama is lovely, perfectly level, just as all
the pictures we see represent it.
Japan's Principal Cities
Japan has five great cities — Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka,
Nagoya, and Yokohama. We visited them all and found
each interesting in the highest degree. The large hotel
had burned in Tokyo, and the new one in progress of
erection under the charge of a great architect was far
from complete. But we made our headquarters in Tokyo
and took our trips from there. The Empress and the
Prince Imperial live here. As all the world knows, the
Emperor has been very ill for years and takes no part
in the government. His malady is mental, and it is piti-
ful, for physically he is young and vigorous, considerably
under fifty, I was told.
The present ambassador and his wife, Hon. and Mrs.
Charles B. Warren, are valued friends of ours, and need-
less to say added much to the pleasure of our stay in
Tokyo. We were at the Embassy many times, both for-
mally and informally. It was with a feeling of distinct
pride that we heard his administration so highly spoken
of throughout Japan, and Mrs. Warren, who speaks
French well, is gracious and charming of manner and
has contributed largely to their popularity. Mr. Warren
is a good mixer as well as a competent man, and together
they have managed to make the Embassy brilliant. It is
M
<
Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 247
a spot noted for its lavish hospitality.
At one of the formal dinners we attended there we
met many distinguished Japanese, Count Inouye, Grand
Master of Ceremonies to the Emperor ; the Marchioness,
his wife; Madame Myeba, Lady-in- Waiting to the Em-
press; Viscount Vaneke, Privy Counselor to the
Emperor ; Madame Yamanaka ; also the Belgian Ambas-
sador and some delightful Americans, among them our
military attache and his wife, Col. and Mrs. Burnett. The
latter is the poet laureate of Japan. She has written
some exquisite poems of Old Japan, and the Japanese are
devoted to her. They have honored her by making her
poet laureate. Madame Yamanaka is the daughter of
Count Chinda, who took the Prince Imperial to Europe.
The Women of Japan
The Japanese ladies were delightful. They wore
their ceremonial robes, spoke charming English, French,
and other languages. They were splendidly educated
women, cultured, traveled, quite up-to-date on all sub-
jects of conversation. The Japanese women are far
ahead of the other women of the Orient. Such as I met
at the Embassy were apparently on equal footing with
their lords and masters, acting just as the English and
European women did, but it was whispered to me that
this was so only when they were in company with the
latter. In their own homes when Europeans or Ameri-
248 All the Way 'Round
cans are present they sit at table and are charming host-
esses. But alone in their own family they observe all
the rules of Old Japan. Be all this as it may, we cer-
tainly found them delightful companions at the Embassy
dinner. The Japanese men were in the regulation even-
ing dress of the European, and they were cultivated men
of the world. But in appearance the Japanese man does
not please the American or European. He is too small
of stature and too foppish of appearance. But the Jap-
anese woman, lithe, graceful of figure, with well-turned,
chiseled features and massed crown of glossy black hair,
always perfectly coiffured, is "a thing of beauty and a
joy forever."
The hair of the Japanese woman, by the way, makes a
story of itself. It is always very black and has a sort of
metallic luster. It is kept soft by means of many wash-
ings and much ointment. Camellia oil, I am told, is the
favorite tonic, but they also add a gummy mixture which
builds the hair up high and stiff into that precise coiffure
which one sees always on the head of the Japanese
women. As is the case in China, there is a professional
hairdresser who goes from house to house. But the bet-
ter class of Japanese ladies dislike him because he is the
gossip and scandalmonger of the empire. But the lower
classes always employ him and even the poorest woman,
it seems, can scrape up enough money to have her hair
dressed by the professional barber when he comes along.
Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 249
The Japanese coiffure is most elaborate and strange.
Yet none can say that it is not attractive. Their really
beautiful complexions are often marred by too much
white powder. They fairly paint their faces with it till
they resemble white masks. There is nothing pretty
about this, of course. But the young girls use paint and
powder lightly and as a rule are lovely. The Japanese
women are devoted mothers, but they nurse their babies
too long. It is no uncommon sight to see a child of four
running back to its mother for a feeding.
A Fly in the Ointment
Tranquil and serene as is the general atmosphere of
Japan, gentle and courteous as are its delightful little
people, there is the usual friction beneath the surface of
life, as elsewhere. Their marriage system is the bugbear,
although, to tell the truth, it seems not to bother them
as much as one would think it might. The man never
selects his own wife (he does pick out his own concubine),
and after she is married the Japanese bride is absolutely
subservient to her husband's mother. With her it is
never a love match. How could she be happy, especially,
as is now so often the case, when she has had an Euro-
pean education? This is now a problem confronting the
Japanese, just as it has confronted the Chinese, the
American Indian, and others.
How can an Indian who is a graduate of Yale or
250 All the Way 'Round
Harvard go back to the reservation and be again an
Indian? He can't. Yet this is the proviso when the gov-
ernment gives him an education. Result? After they
have returned to their people, all that school and college
have taught them proves to be of no value to them there.
Consequently in an incredibly short space of time one
could never tell that they had had an education. They
are once more just members of a tribe. So to the woman
of Japan and China, capable and often brilliant, com-
pelled to return and be married to a man steeped in the
ancient customs of his country, narrow-minded and un-
progressive, life holds much to be desired. Sometimes
in Japan, but very seldom in China, one finds the excep-
tion. Often while traveling we saw Japanese husbands
who were quite attentive, helping the wife, carrying the
children, etc. Welcome sight!
In Yokohama we devoted our first day to visiting the
great Daibutsu at Kamakura. This great bronze Buddha
is one of the wonders of Japan and though not so large,
it is more impressive than the one at Nara, owing, possi-
bly, to the fact that it is in the open. The site is elevated
and in the midst of splendid cryptomerias, and as one
enters the gateway he reads this inscription :
Stranger, whoever thou art and whatsoever thy
creed, when thou enterest this sanctuary remember that
thou treadest upon ground hallowed by the worship of
ages! This is the temple of Buddha and the gate of the
Eternal! Enter it, therefore, with reverence!
A monastery garden, Koyasan
Burning paper prayers. Koyasan
X
Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 251
The face of this giant Buddha, seated upon a lotus
leaf, is the most beatific I have ever seen. The statue
was cast in 1252 A. D., and is forty-nine feet high. Its
eyes are of pure gold. It was once in a building, de-
stroyed by a tidal wave in 1494, and ever since the colossal
statue has just sat under the blue sky. This is its chief
charm. The serene majesty of this calm Hindu face with
its half-closed eyes indicates that their belief in Nirvana
means much to them. One would be indeed hardened
who could look at this calm Buddha and not love it. The
face is so profoundly meditative, the hands rest quietly
in the lap, the thumbs touching each other. This statue
is quite worthy of all the admiration it has elicited in all
the years that the world has been traveling to see it.
Glimpses of Tokyo
There are other temples about the bronze Buddha.
They overlook that beautiful sheet of water known as
Mississippi Bay. These we saw and admired, but one
surfeits with constant description. I merely make men-
tion of them. We had no time for charming Enoshima,
that delightful beach resort near Tokyo. Besides, we
wish to leave something to visit when we go again to
this wonderful land.
Tokyo is a perpetual welding of past and present, of
old and new, of stagnation and progress. Palace and
museum, Shiba Park, shop and theater, we visited each
252 All the Way 'Round
in turn. One of the sights of the city is the tomb of the
second Shogun. It is a superb thing, Korean lions, fabu-
lous beasts and reptiles overhanging the arches, oriental
colors, bewildering to the eye because of their vividness,
gold splendor in profusion, huge columns — all these
enter into its decorations. Fine lacquer work abounds.
The priests ' apartments, the carvings by Hidara- Jingoro
on the doors, wonderfully painted sliding screens by the
greatest artist of Japan, all is overwhelming in its
richness.
Off to Picturesque Nikko
It was from Yokohama that we made our journey to
Nikko, to reach which one travels through what is con-
sidered Japan's most picturesque and attractive scenery.
Nikko rests right in the heart of the mountains. Its
stormy little river (such a rushing, angry, roaring little
torrent) cuts right across the town. It is never calm
and made us think of the Rimac, in Peru. This little
stream at Nikko cascades everywhere and not infre-
quently, in some man's back yard, is to be seen the pret-
tiest tiny waterfall. Sometimes this tumbling bit of foam
is only a couple of yards wide. But it is none the less
lovely. When we went to Nikko it had been raining a
good deal, but the next day after our arrival, as the
weather was superb, we took advantage of it to see
Chuzenjhi, the elevated lake lying five thousand! feet
above the level of the sea and said to be five hundred
Nature-Loving Japanese; Buddhism 253
and sixty feet deep. It was well that we went, for those
who waited had to see it in the rain. Many walk to the
height, some use 'rickshas, but one is well repaid, no
matter what the manner of his going. On the day we
went the mountains were clear, green, and fresh-looking.
Not a cloud obscured the view until just after we re-
turned. Then the mist began to soften everything and
the skies prepared for the tremendous downpour that
followed on the next day. There was a charming hotel
right on the edge of the lake, where they gave us a good
luncheon, all the more enjoyable because of the beauty
of the view.
The outlet of Chuzenjhi is Kegon Falls. They drop
with a tremendous roar two hundred and fifty feet and
send up enormous quantities of spray. On either side of
it are smaller waterfalls with beautiful rainbow tints
hovering about them. We observed here a curious phe-
nomenon. If one watches the center of this bridal veil
of water the rocks on either side seem to be receding, the
whole bulky mountain moving slowly backward. It was
most curious. We had never before noticed such a thing
in any other waterfall. What was it? A sort of rela-
tivity? I wonder. Like our own Niagara, Kegon Falls
is a favorite spot for suicides. It is now closely guarded
because of the seeming desire of so many to die within
its beauteous waters.
The chill of Nikko ! It was May, but it seemed like
254 All the Way 'Round
December. Although the rain came down in torrents
next day, we ventured forth with umbrellas and rain-
coats and did not suffer. At the first glimpse of the tem-
ples we forgot the cold and the rain. From the red-
lacquered bridge to the tomb of the Shogun we had one
thrill after another. The old hackneyed expression, " See
Nikko before you say Kekko!" (See Nikko before you
say splendid!) was well said. Nothing could be more
satisfying. Many of the Shinto shrines were quite ornate
because they once had been Buddhist shrines and the com-
bination still remains. The wise priests of the simpler
Shinto temples decided when they took the Buddhist
temples to keep the glorious things they found in them.
Every one knows, of course, that the Emperor and Em-
press were always Shinto worshipers. They are them-
selves regarded as divine, therefore higher than Buddha.
So, of course, they could not accept Buddhism for their
religion. Occasionally some member of the imperial
family is a backslider and becomes a Buddhist. But
neither the Emperor nor Empress could. To do so would
be to acknowledge that they are not divine. This, nat-
urally, they would not concede.
CHAPTER XX
BEAUTIFUL NIKKO ; JAPANESE RED CROSS; JU-JITSU ; HOME-
WARD BOUND
NATURE has been kind to Nikko. She is elaborately
and superbly set. Even without her temples she
would be one of the show places of her country. Add,
therefore, to her natural beauties the glories of her art,
her wonderful places of worship, with their carved
screens, gold canopies, lacquer, ornamental drums, kake-
monos, makimonos — what does she lack? The Kanos
in Nikko are unusually fine, and here on the outside of
one of the buildings I was much interested to see the
original of that familiar little group of the three wise
monkeys whose attitudes express the excellent admoni-
tion, " Speak no evil, see no evil, hear no evil ! " The
great left-handed sculptor, Hidara-Jingoro, has carved
here the figures of some animals which have become
famous — an elephant, a bull, and, last of all, the sleeping
cat. The latter is cut upon the entrance or gate of
Iyeyasu's tomb. She sleeps eternally, right behind the
Holy of Holies. Ornaments of brass, like huge plates,
hang in the temples. Fine old brocades and silks, the
carved phoenix, other birds, the pagodas, the bell tower,
the twelve signs of the zodiac — all are grouped together
in my mind whenever I attempt to revisualize Nikko.
256 All the Way 'Round
Sweet Confusion of Memories
All travelers to this country have heard of the Hun-
dred Steps at Nikko. They lead up to the tomb of Iyeyasu.
We climbed them, wearily I must admit, and as we were
plodding along an elderly man passed us lightly. He
smiled and bowed and we commented upon his agility.
The Hall of the Three Buddhas, the sweet tones of the
bronze bell which calls the hours between dawn and dusk,
the abbots' garden, the museum, with the cherished rel-
ics — all these are a conglomerate in my memory. Yet
it is surely a pleasing conglomerate, even if indistinct it
is unforgettable. The richness of the beauty of Nikko
will always remain. The gold gods and goddesses, the
panel pictures of the second of June processions, the
bronze fountains, censers, lanterns, rock crystals, the six
bronze bells of the museum, the squatting priests either
counting money or watching pilgrims, the sing-song of
other priests instructing the sightseers — these pictures,
if jumbles, are indelible.
Nikko must be seen to be known. It is impossible to
describe her. The first and the third of the Shoguns are
buried here and their tombs are well worth exploring.
Before the shrines in the Shinto temples were many offer-
ings made of gold leaf paper. We saw some exquisite
things here, one of them being a carved cherry tree of
brass, every blossom of which was perfect in detail.
In the temples we saw some long, graceful grass, appar-
A splendid cryptomeria grove, Nikko
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 257
ently gold, with rice. On closer examination we found
that it was bamboo gilded. But the effect in the temple
was lovely. The entrance to the tomb of the third Sho-
gun, grandson of the first, is most impressive. The
superb gates of gold are world-renowned, and on either
side is a large white panel carved in white flowers. When
we had mounted the three long flights of steps necessary
to reach it and had come upon the splendid cryptomeria
grove in which the tombs and temples were, we thought
that the view quite repaid us. But when we saw these
matchless gates we were almost speechless. Accustomed
as we were by this time to beautiful things they set for
us a new standard of beauty. Nothing is quite so beau-
tiful that some artist cannot exceed it in beauty. Thus it
seemed to us as we stood there. The columns are un-
usually graceful. The whole length of the building
revealed only a line of loveliness.
The Red Bridge and General Grant
The sacred Red Bridge of Nikko is another of her
treasures which the whole world knows. It is made of
the finest lacquer and is perhaps the most striking feature
of Nikko. Its graceful, sweeping arch spans the gorge
over that leaping, foaming river. It shines lustrously,
and no one except the Emperor and Empress are ever
permitted to walk across its sacred span. The Japanese
will never forget the courtesy of General Grant when he
258 All the Way 'Round
was making his tour of the world. Wishing to show the
greatest honor possible to the great American General,
they offered him the privilege of crossing the sacred
bridge. With that innate sense of the fitness of things
for which he was famous, the General declined, saying
that their beautiful bridge was far too sacred to be pol-
luted by his footsteps. A few months ago the young
Prince of Wales had the good taste to follow his exam-
ple. Knowing that General Grant had declined to accept
this courtesy, he also declined it when offered. The
bridge is adorned with black metal clamps and gilded
washers and makes a fine bit of color against the green of
the cryptomerias. Two monolithic Tom-shaped pillars of
gray granite support it at either end. These Torii gates
of Japan are certainly magnificent. One meets them
everywhere he goes and cannot help admiring their
curious form.
Woman in Japan
There is an old saying that Japan had invented noth-
ing, but has improved on everything that everybody else
has invented. This is well illustrated daily and in many
ways. Of course, all her best ideas — everything that she
has, in fact, that is of value, her language, her literature,
her art — she got from China. But she has greatly im-
proved and refined them all to such a degree that her
ancient neighbor would scarcely recognize them. The
Beautiful Xikko; Homeward Bound 259
explanation is not difficult. China still adheres to her
old beliefs, is extremely tenacious of them, in fact, and
is slow to change. Japan, on the other hand, is eager
to learn, favorable to every new idea she receives. For
hundreds of years, just like China, she closed herself to
foreign invasion and trade. But once admitted she made
the foreigner teach her all that he knows. She then pro-
ceeded to improve upon his ideas. Formerly most of her
laws were based upon those of China. Now they are
almost wholly European.
In regard to Japanese art there is no doubt that their
command of pencil and brush (a command which is uni-
versally acknowledged) is the result of close study and
frequent use of the difficult Chinese characters. The fin-
est schools of painting in Japan are attributed to Chinese
teaching.
Although the status of woman in Japan is improving,
there is still much to be desired. The passivity and prac-
tical extinction of the wife is of course a proverb in all
oriental countries. Even today the Japanese man, far
in advance of the other orientals in enlightenment, still
depends upon the Geisha girl for the pleasures of femi-
nine society. These girls are taught accomplishments,
the art of entertaining ; and while the wife, who has the
legal right to her husband's companionship, sits alone
and lonely at home minding his babies, he seeks his diver-
sion and entertainment elsewhere. It never occurs to
260 All the Way 'Round
him, seemingly, that his wife might entertain him occa-
sionally if he would but give her the opportunity. This
phase of Japanese life, however, is improving. Perhaps
when they realize the disgust which it breeds in the
people of the western world to see them dragging about
their wives and children in company with their concu-
bines, showing them equal attention, they may recognize
what a handicap to real progress is any phase of life
which has to them the appearance of openly flaunting
immorality in their faces.
The social evil will never be completely controlled,
much less wiped out, in any country on the face of the
earth until the day comes when each man and woman
in it shall pray, individually and collectively, that a
beneficent Providence shall create in them a clean heart.
Vice, especially when commercialized, is like the barnacle
which attaches itself to the hull of a ship. It is a disease
which has fastened itself upon society at large. It can be
cured only by means of spiritual regeneration. But the
occidental world recognizes that it is wise to keep it out
of sight, especially out of the sight of their growing
families. There will be neither moral health nor progress
in the Orient until the system of concubinage shall have
been done away with. No really great men have been
born in the Orient for hundreds of years. Why? The
answer is easy. It takes an intelligent mother to rear a
great man. So long as the impressionable years of youth
Tomb of Iyevasu, Nikko Torii before the Tomb of [yeyasu,
Xikko
The superb gates are world-renowned
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 261
are spent in the companionship of a narrow-minded, igno-
rant mother, just so long will there be a dearth of states-
men and scholars, teachers and liberators in that country.
That the Orient could but be made to realize all this!
But so long as it is perfectly legitimate and honorable to
have the concubine, so long as it adds to the social status
of man to keep as many as he can afford to support, just
that long will the life of the women of the oriental coun-
tries continue to be a life of degradation.
What Oriental Women Can Do
To an American or European woman there could be
no clearer battle-cry than that which has for its founda-
tion the release of one's sisters from bondage. We have
fought it out along a great many lines, and what we have
done the oriental woman can do also. Why do they not
take up the banner and fight for public opinion as the
women of other countries have done and are still doing?
In Japan they are making the effort. The seed is being
planted. There are whisperings in the air that women
are really human beings and have certain inalienable
rights and privileges. Propaganda is being scattered.
The first meeting in the interest of suffrage in Japan ivas
held while we were there. True, it broke up in a riot.
But so did similar meetings in England — in America.
Some casualties were reported. But the seed was planted.
Finally the case was taken into court, and after hot fight-
262 All the Way 'Round
ing and bitter discussion, the women won. They are to
be permitted (under certain restrictions) to speak in pub-
lic and to plead their cause. Take heart, women of
Japan! And, oh, you women of the other oriental coun-
tries, take notice!
I must speak here of the Red Cross Society of Japan.
It is different from ours. We make charity, care of the
sick, the wounded, and the needy our first and great
objective. But the Japanese Red Cross Society, under
direction of the Empress, makes patriotism its basis;
loyalty to the Emperor, love for the soldiery of the coun-
try. It does all that it can to make the latter comfort-
able. The insignia of the Society is worn in public and it
is considered a great honor to be able to wear it. It is
the only society in the whole empire, so far as I am able
to learn, which is perfectly organized. They often have
lectures, with lantern slides illustrating the work of the
Red Cross. Because of the insular position of the coun-
try they keep many hospital ships for the patients, and
they are models of comfort. The Imperial Princesses do
much, and of course their example is one which the other
women strive to emulate. Women are eligible to service
in the Red Cross Society from the ages of seventeen to
thirty. At fifty-five physicians are retired as incapable
of further service. At forty-five the attendants and
stretcher-bearers are retired.
No work of the Red Cross of Japan has been more
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 263
valuable, however, than the stamping out of that terrible
disease (prevalent in all rice-bearing countries) called
beri-beri. It is most dangerous and has caused much
havoc among the soldiery of India. It is caused by eating
rice exclusively, especially cold rice. It causes, first,
swelling, then paralysis in the legs and finally death from
heart failure. Also, it is recurrent. If a man has had it
once he is all the more likely to have it again. Dr. Heiser,
of Manila, who has made a special study of it, is trying
to induce the government to compel the natives to buy
rice and eat it in the husk. This would do away with the
bad effects of the white rice. The next best thing, he
thinks, would be to cook with it a pound of millet.
Athletics in Japan
Japan is famed for its athletics, especially the much-
talked-of ju-jitsa. This, seemingly, is a matter of skill,
not strength, and one well versed and practiced in it is
able to defeat the best boxer in the world. The best known
and most wonderful feat is the somersault-throwing of a
man over the head. The important point of the training
is therefore the development of wrist power, and this is
the first thing taught and practiced. Nearly every fea-
ture of this mysterious art, however, is defensive rather
than offensive. In ordinary wrestling the man of greater
strength is almost sure to win, although skill and agility
are of much help to him. But in ju-jitsu the greatest
264 All the Way 'Round
stress is laid upon the study of the scientific principles by
which one's opponent may be rendered powerless to
resist attack. The watchword seems to be " Destroy your
adversary's equilibrium ! " It was certainly interesting to
watch these well-trained men, bouncing like rubber balls
about the floor, and it was extremely difficult to tell which
was winning.
Of the two religions of Japan, Buddhist and Shinto,
the latter is the favorite. Nirvana, the doctrine of
dreamy renunciation, the annihilation of self, is not what
the active, aggressive little Jap is looking for. He is a
warrior at heart. He adores his sword. A man who
dies for his Emperor is to him a great man, the man
whose life and example he would follow. The Buddhist
cult, therefore, which appeals so strongly to the Chinese,
the Japanese refuses. The sturdy people of Japan are
ambitious to see their country among the great nations
of the world. It seemed to me that they have a founda-
tion for their hope. We are prone to refer to our Japanese
neighbors as the " little people, " forgetful that sometimes
those who are small of stature are large of intellectuality.
It is this latter characteristic which will place them in
the front.
Future of the Nation
The sons of Japan are ambitious. They will create
opportunities. They would make Nippon the seat of a
mighty commercial empire. With Chosen and Manchuria
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 265
welded into commercial colonies — what may she not be
able to accomplish? She is seeking a big tonnage on the
sea. There is nothing visionary in this. She is already
attaining it. Shipping is to be fostered by the nation
until it becomes a great industry. Of late years hundreds
of bright young Japanese have served apprenticeships in
the great shipyards of America, England, Germany, and
France, with the result that today there is no secret of
naval architecture unknown to them. There are scores
of naval architects in Japan, and they are the equals of
those of any other country in the world.
Also, the Japanese are athirst for knowledge along
other lines. They acquire languages with the utmost
ease. With their ambition and grit they are surely
launched upon a brilliant career both in commerce and
intellectual attainments. The future of Japan cannot be
other than great. Her history and conduct during the
last ten years have proved a surprise to the world. The
Japanese have openly asserted themselves. They have
taken their position among the nations. And this posi-
tion they will hold. Though they impressed us as being
a suspicious people — we constantly had the feeling of
being watched — they seem a loyal people. The peep-
holes cut squarely in every hotel room — ostensibly for
ventilation — could well serve as a system of espionage,
and I have not the slightest doubt that they do. It has
been said that " East is East and West is West, and never
266 All the Way 'Round
the twain shall meet." But ambition carries men and
nations far. Japan has sounded the clarion note of prog-
ress. In sanitation she is, like the other countries of the
Orient, far behind. But in education she is far ahead.
She is wise in that she permits the counsel of her sober-
minded statesmen to prevail, basing her actions on their
wisdom and experience. By cooperation with America
and other enlightened nations she will in the future
acquire the light of true civilization.
Yokohama is absolutely as much American, or Eng-
lish, as any city of either of these countries. Certainly
it does not seem Japanese. Its beautiful harbor spread
out before our eyes from the windows of our rooms at
the hotel. We looked at it lingeringly, somewhat long-
ingly, magnificent by day, with hundreds of twinkling
lights by night, and then, one Sunday afternoon we
steamed out on one of our own beautiful ships formerly
known as The Empire State, but afterward rechristened
in honor of President Wilson. What a joy it was to travel
in it ! Lovely cabins, private baths, lounging rooms, per-
fect service. What more could one ask at sea ?
Beautiful, snow-crowned Fujiyama was in sight for
hours after sailing. All those who were equal to it sat
and watched the mountain out of sight, but I am sorry
to say that in that notoriously rough and choppy sea sur-
rounding Yokohoma, I, who am usually a perfect sailor,
lay most forlornly for two hours in my steamer chair.
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 267
Nearly all the feminine persuasion were abed by this
time, and many of the masculine element were mysteri-
ously missing. But my vigorous husband never felt a
qualm, and he declares to this day that our entire passage
was a rather smooth one. Good gracious ! Has he for-
gotten, I wonder, the day after, when, fully recovered, I
sat with him at the table enjoying a good meal and sud-
denly a huge wave swept through the port-hole, drench-
ing us to the skin and soaking all the food on the table?
Anybody may call that a smooth passage who wants to.
I call it distinctly rough!
All the World Abroad
However, though we had stiff winds all the way and
the waves were huge, the captain reported each day " fine
sailing ! " Our boat was filled. Not a single vacant berth.
Indeed, this had been our experience throughout our
journey, with very rare exceptions. Wherever we went
all steamers, trains and hotels were packed. It seemed
as if all the world must be traveling. We had procured
our cabin only a month before, although we had paid our
passage money six months before that, at which time we
were told that should one be vacant we might have it.
Otherwise we should have to wait another month. It was
only May, yet bookings were already being made for 1923.
We had a delightful passenger list, some distinguished
people, many of whom were coming home from China for
268 All the Way 'Round
a vacation. Among the latter were Mr. and Mrs. S — ,
of Ann Arbor, charming people. Mr. S — had been head
of the consortium in Peking. They had done their work
well, for everywhere we had heard of it and of them.
The "Child of the Wind "
American missionaries, Catholic and Protestant, were
aboard, and among the latter were a couple who had been
doing missionary work in China, in the mountains, for a
number of years. They had two children, a boy and a
girl, and it was the girl who attracted me. She was about
twelve years old, had been born and lived ever since in
China. She was extremely pretty, but it was with an
unearthly sort of beauty. She had deep blue eyes, amber
colored hair and skin as white as milk. She was a curious
little creature, and I observed her first standing one
morning at the bow of the boat where the wind was so
strong that if two people stood side by side they could
not hear each other's voice. It seemed impossible for so
delicate a thing as this little girl to stand there. But in
the thinnest of dresses, eerie-like, her fair hair floating
in the wind, there she stood, oblivious to her surround-
ings. To steady herself she had encircled a post with her
arm, and there she remained, unconscious of all that was
going on about her. It was very cold. Every one else
was wrapped in furs and shivering. In the attempt to
take my daily exercise, buffeting the wind and scarcely
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bouud 269
able to breast it, I passed her several times.
On one of my rounds I saw that she had loosed her
embrace of the post and was dancing, running back and
forth, throwing her hands above her head, at times leap-
ing into the air like a faun, all the while murmuring to
herself; the performance was so remarkable that I
stopped to watch her. She took not the slightest notice
of me. For days this steady wind blew. And for days
my husband and I would see this little girl dancing or
running on the windy side of the vessel, always talking to
herself, utterly unconscious that anyone was looking at
her. Beneath a full moon at night, or under a tranquil
sky by day, she would lift her little white arms and in a
seeming ecstasy of bliss, with flying skirts, she would pur-
sue her wild dance. Improvising one difficult step after
another she would speed and whirl, until from sheer ex-
haustion she would fall to the deck. But — only for a
moment would she rest.
My husband and I christened her " The Child of the
Wind." One day I thought I would question her. When
I first spoke to her she seemed dazed, but gathering her-
self together she answered me. She certainly was not a
normal child. The story she told me was afterward
corroborated by her mother. Always she had loved the
wind. It was never too strong, too rough for her. Even
when the typhoon came, those awful storms when every-
body flies to cover, she, just a baby, would crawl out
270 All the Way 'Round
under the awnings which had been drawn down to pro-
tect the house. Her distracted parents, although they
tried to watch her closely, would often find that she had
eluded them and, frantic with fear for her safety, would
seek her in that awful wind, finding her either clinging to
the branches of some well-rooted bush or else practicing
her weird dance in the driving storm.
A Sprite of the Air
As she grew older, no amount of reasoning had any
weight. She continued her curious love for the wind.
She told me that the feeling when it blew through her
thin dress and covered her body was delicious, exhilarat-
ing, fine ! She could not explain her love for it, but with-
out it, she said, she would die. Her little elfin face, with
its curious and mysterious beauty, haunts me yet. I can
see her now as she thus described her feelings to me,
light-hearted, free, leaping and agile, dancing on the deck.
Whether the skies above were blue or whether they were
overcast with the blackest of clouds mattered not at all
to her — if only the wind blew. The harder it blew the
happier, the more exhilarated she was. What was there
in the wind which so hypnotized this little white maiden
from China!
The fourteen-day voyage across the Pacific becomes
always a fifteen-day sail, and alas, this year we had two
Fridays ! Even as a strict Catholic, however, I declined
Beautiful Nikko; Homeward Bound 271
to keep both of them. I felt privileged to eat meat on
the second day. A day is lost when sailing westward
across the Pacific, but in coming eastward a day is found.
It seems funny. Honolulu, the beautiful, was our only
stop between Yokohama and 'Frisco. We spent the day
there and it was glorious. We motored out to see the
Pali, the old Punch Bowl, the pearl harbor, the palace,
and all that we could in one day. We called on old
friends, sat for a while on the pier and watched the surf
riders. We loved its tropical charm, its magnificent plan-
tations where the pineapples grow — the kind that liter-
ally melt in one's mouth. But I was a bit sad here. The
last time I visited Honolulu I had a dear friend here who
had planned all our pleasures for us, and who now has
gone over the Great Divide. My thoughts were of him.
I could not get him out of my mind, nor could I throw
off a feeling of depression which overcame me in this
exquisitely lovely spot.
America — and Home
Seven days later we saw the coast of California in the
distance. The joy of a home-coming! No matter what
splendors the rest of the world has to offer home is the
finest and best place. Even the customs house officials
seemed nice — and that is saying a good deal ! Two days
with our brother, his wife and baby, in Los Angeles, then
back to our children, and our grandchildren, and our very
272 All the Way 'Round
own Chicago. What a joy to see the little ones, and to
note the change in them since we had seen them last. And
CHICAGO! Our city of beautiful dreams! Of lofty
ideals ! You possess an hypnotic charm ! What can you
and what have you not demonstrated to the world? Your
high buildings and busy streets are famous now the world
over, and the future still holds much. So, whether you
be garbed in winter snows, or whether you wear your
summer dress of emerald green, we stand beside your
sparkling blue waters and openly declare our love ! Long
may you live ! And may you be always what for so long
you ha^e been and still are — OUR HOME.
INDEX
INDEX
Abu, Mount, 29
Agra, 36, 38, 47, 50
Akbar, 36
Alhambra, The, 13
Allen, General, 8
Amano-Hashidate, 228
Ambassadors, Hall of the, 13
Amber, deserted cities of, 34
Ancestor worship, 172
Ancestor, The Great, 206
Andes, The, 83
Anuradhapura, 103-109
Arabia, 21
Arakan pagoda, The, 134
Baguio, 63, 155
Baiern (Bavaria), 15
Barcelona, 16
Bear, sloth, 93
Benares, 52
Benares, Monkey Temple of,
59
Bengal, 77
Bengal, Bay of, 88, 99, 118
Beri-beri, 263
Bee-eaters, 92
Bhootan, 76
Bingen on the Rhine, 8
Blavatsky, Madame, 90
Blavatsky, School of Theoso-
phy, 20, 90
Bo tree, The, 94, 106
Bombay, 18, 22-31, 43, 47, 62,
121
Bombay, Hanging Gardens of,
24
Bombay, Front Door of India,
the, 27
"Brain Fever Bird, The," 69
Bubuls, 92
Bungalows, dak, 121, 133, 136
Burgos, 11
Burma, 68, 102, 115, 118, 120-
136
Burnett, Colonel, 247
Burnett, Mrs., 247
Caen, 6
Cairo 19
Calcutta, 27, 65-71, 88, 91, 94
Calcutta, Back Door of India,
27
Canton, 152, 162, 164-169
Carlos Ferdinand, Prince of
Bavaria, 16
Ceylon, 17, 45, 99-125, 153
Chadar, 62
Chicago, 2, 10, 15, 20, 33, 60, 99,
131, 148, 155, 166, 188, 202,
226 272
"Child of the Wind," 268
China, 17, 112, 117, 133, 152,
155, 161, 170-181, 190, 200,
211, 225, 248, 258, 267, 268
China, Dowager Empress of,
185-189, 191, 207
China, Great Wall of, 181, 195-
198
China, Pu Lun, Prince Impe-
rial of, 188-190
Chosen, 210, 264
Chota-Hazri, 88, 114
275
276
Index
Chufou, 196
Chuzenjhi, 251
Colombo, 99
Confucius, 1, 170, 196
Confucius, Temple of, 184, 192
Cordova, 11
Crane, demoiselle, the, 93, 101
d'Arc, Jeanne, 3
Daibutsuden, 229
Dandy, 80
Darjeeling, 73-86
Delhi, 39, 47, 51
Dilwarra Temples, The, 29
Dresden, 8
Durbar, the, 47, 58
Edward the Confessor, 6
Egrets, 92, 102, 131
Egypt, 19, 103, 145
Eulalia, Infanta, 15
Everest, Mount, 77-83
Fakir, 34
Forbidden City, the, 178-189
France, 3
Franz Josef, Emperor of Aus-
tria, 15
Fujiyama, 237, 245, 266
Fusan, 215
Futtipur-Sikri, 36
Ganesha, 95
Ganges, The, 52, 97
Gautama, 94, 100, 125, 134
Gautama, Sacred Tooth of, 100
Geisha Girls, 225, 239, 259
Georgetown, 143
Ghandi, 43, 58, 84, 163
Ghats, The, 53
Gifu, 239-243
God of War, the, 179
Golden Lily Tank, the, 96
Golden Pagoda, the, 124
Gopuras, 49
Granada, 11
Grant, General, 257
Great Pagoda, The, 174
Hall of a Thousand Pillars,
the, 96
Hanchow, 165
Hearn, Lafcadio, 223
Heiser, Dr., 154, 263
Heroshigi, 222
Hidara-Jingoro, 223, 229, 252
Himalayas, 1, 66, 73-79, 83
Hocksai, 222
Holmes, Burton, 223
Holy of Holies, 20, 234, 255
Holy Way, The, 175, 194
Holland, 10, 20
Hongkong, 148, 152, 163, 166,
173
Honolulu, 89, 270
"House that God Begot, The/'
6
Igorrotes, Market of, 157
Imperial City, The, 178
India, 2, 17, 22-143, 162, 263
Irving, Washington, 13
Irrawaddy River, the, 119,
122, 146
Italy, 11, 19
Jahanara Begam, 38
Jain Temples, The, 29
Jaipur, the "Pink City," 32
Jami Masjid. 51
Index
277
Japan, 1, 17, 155-266
Japan, Red Cross of, 262
Jinrickshas, 76, 226, 230, 253
Jumna River, the, 35
Ju-jitsu, 263
Kai, 59
Kaisar I Hind, 18
Kakemonos, 228, 255
Kaltura, 114
Kandy, 100-117
Kano screens, 221, 255
Kapurthala, Maharajah of, 39
Kegon Falls, 253
Kinchin jinga (Mount), 77
Kioto, 220-246
Korea, 160, 212-225
Koyo, Mount, 230
Lama Temple, the, 181
Lama Dance, the, 184
Lions, Court of the, 13
London, 4
Lorikeets, 92
Los Banos, 153
Lourdes, 10
Louvre, The, 3
Luxembourg, 3
Madras, 20, 47, 88
Madrid, 13
Madura, 49, 93, 98
Makimonos, 228, 255
Malabar Hill, 22
Malacca Straits, 144
Malaysia, 143
Manchuria, 17, 207, 264
Mandalay, 119-140
Manila, 152-162, 263
Marseilles, 18, 91, 162
Mercier, Cardinal, 9
Miller, Warren Hastings, 128
Ming Tombs, the, 175, 181,
192-195
Miyajima, 219
Montaz y Mahal, 35
Mukden, 207-212
Myrtle Court, The, 13
Nagoya, 237-239, 246
Nanking, 173-175
Nankow, 192
Nara, 229, 250
Nats, 120
Nepaul, 76
Nikko, 252-257
Nikko, Red Bridge of, 257
Nuwara Eliya, 100, 104
Order of the Dragon, The, 191
Paddy birds, 92
Paddy fields, 245
Pagoda of the War God, the,
175
Pagsangan, 153
Pailow, the, 192
Pearl Mosque, the, 38
Peepul tree, the, 94
Peking, 165, 173, 177-206, 207,
226, 268
Penang, 143
Pengyi, the, 121
Philippines, The, 63, 152-160
Purdah, 25, 47, 130, 143
Rangoon, 118-131, 142, 146
Red Sea, 17
Reggio, 19
Rouen, 2
278
Index
Sacred Mountain, the, 196
Sahib, 33, 81
Sake, 224
Sampans, 146, 168
Saris, 62, 105
Seoul, 212
Seville, 11
Shah Jahan, 35, 38
Shanghai, 173
Shantung, 196
Shimonoseki, 217
Shwe-Dagon, 123-126
Siam, 118, 125
Sigiriya, 104, 107
Silence, Towers of, 22
Singapore, 146-149
Siva, 59, 95
Snake Temple, the, 145
Son of Heaven, the, 181-183
Spain, 11, 101, 187
Suchow, 173
Sule Pagoda, the, 127
Summer Palace, the, 181, 185
Sun Yat Sen, Dr., 193, 202, 204
Tagore, Dr. Rabindranath, 20,
71
Taj Mahal, the, 35, 92, 181
Temple of the Happy New
Year, the, 183
Temple of Heaven, the, 180-
183
Temple of the Sacred Tooth,
the, 117
Theebaw, 120, 136
Thibet, 75, 119, 195
Tiger Hill, 78, 82, 86, 174
Toddy Palm, the, 115
Tonga, the, 26, 51
Torii, the, 219, 268
Wales, The Prince of, 46-48,
58, 92, 162, 258
Widow Monuments, 172
William the Conqueror, 6
Winchester, 5
Wood, General, 154, 161
Yang-tse-kiang, 203
Yellow Temple, the, 181
Yokohama, 244, 250-252, 266
YuanShihK'ai, 183, 190
Zenana, 28
Zoroaster, 23
Zoroaster, "Everlasting Fire
of," 24
A 000 673 121 o
