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ALONG THE BOWSTRING

OR SOUTH SHORE OF
LAKE SUPERIOR.

BY

JULIAN RALPH,

ISSUED BY THE GENERAL PASSENGER DEPARTMENT OV
DULUTH SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

COPYKIGHTEI) BY

C. B. HIBBARD, GENERAL PASSENGER AGENT,

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE ft ATLANTIC r'y,

i8yi.

AMERICyVN BANK NOTE CO.

oMe.wV6f«<-
37660

sfRa

THE PLOT OF THE STORY.

They traveled and they traveled
And the next thing they did spy
Was the moon behind a hill-top.
And that they left behind —

look a' thar !

Now, the one he said it was the moon
But the other he said ' nay,'
So they 'lowed it was a green cheese
With the rind all cut away —

look a' thar !

— College Song.

^NE of the most original
of my acquaintances
said to me once that
he had spent an even-
ing with M. Flamma-
rion, the greatest of
astronomers, and had
taken that occasion to catechise the
master about other worlds than ours.
"And do you know," said he, "that
after hearing about all the other
planets I have come to the convic-
tion that this is a good enough world
for me ? It is true that this world has
defects ; for instance, a man cannot
have his picture put on the postage
stamps until after he is dead — but, take
it all in all, I shall be satisfied if I get
my share of all the fun and beauty,
and sight-seeing and good eating and
pleasant company this rolling pill af-
fords without caring a snap to live in
Saturn and get a couple of celestial
belts thrown in, like chromos."

But one of the best features of life
on this planet is the fact that no man
or set of men can make it different.
In spite of them, it keeps rolling
around and exposing to solar view
characteristics and portions in which
they take no interest. A powerful
body of persons, for instance, is sat-
isfied to go to Newport every year at
vast expense, to move in a tiny set
whose lives are devoted to proving
that the Declaration of Independence
is all wrong, and that only a few are
created equal while all the rest are
vulgar. A still more influential body
of persons think the sum of human
happiness is reached if they can go
to Brighton, England, to ride or walk
up and down a stone embankment
with towering hotels on one side and
a cold ocean, unfit for either bathing
or boating, on the other. When we
think of these people and of the hosts
of Americans who must go abroad to

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAY

be happy or who want to be cramped
up in some barn-like, big hotel in the
White or Catskill Mountains, or else
must go where they can eat course
dinners and waltz away every night
to dulcet music — when we think of
these and the other thousands of sorts
of people and tastes there are, we
know that no single book or region
or thing can suit them all, and we
thank Heaven the world is large and
varied enough for them and for
ourselves.

The persons to whom this book is
addressed are those who want a new
field for recreation, for those who
love Nature in her most beautiful
guise, for those who seek a mild and
equable and invigorating summer cli-
mate, for those who can appreciate
the purest and sweetest air to be
found on earth, made of an admix-
ture of the breath of vast forests and
of the atmosphere of the largest body
of fresh water known to man. That
seems a large constituency to whom
to dedicate a book, but there are
others still who will be gladdened
and stimulated by what is here set

forth, for the region that offers all
that I have here enumerated is also
a vast and teeming sportsmen's re-
sort— the best stocked natural fish
and game preserve within easy reach
of the centre of population. How
this can be, in the same territory with
fine modern hotels and swarming
summer resorts and bustling, progress-
ive cities, the reader will discover as
he rides over a perfectly equipped,
luxuriously appointed railway, either
metaphorically by reading the pages
that follow or actually by pursuing
the advice they contain.

The force of the ballad quotation
at the head of this introductory chap-
ter will be noted when the reader un-
derstands that travelers do not always
agree even about the objects they en-
counter in their wanderings. There
are travelers whom few can ever agree
with — travelers who write up coun-
tries and travelers who write countries
down. This traveler and this book
seek no such purpose. They will
treat of a country as they found it ;
and as they left it so it will be found
by those who go after them.

ALONG THE BOWSTRING.

•TT GLAXCE at the map of our country
r\ will show you where the Bow-
J string is ; but if, instead of find-
ing it for yourself, I tell you to what
the phrase is applied, the aptness of it
will strike you at once. It is the south
shore of Lake Superior — practically a
straight line, like the string of a bow,
connecting the ends of the n^.agnificent
curve of the upper side of the great
crystal sea. Whatever the actual wave-
carved southern coast of the lake lacks
of evenness is now corrected by the
mathematical line of the Duluth,
South Shore and Atlantic Rail-
way. The rails are laid down with the
directness that is peculiar to a tautened
string, and this enhances its great value
to the traveling public while, at the
same time, it misses none of the scenic
attractions of the wonderful panoramic
region close to the lake.

How many who have not seen Lake
Superior have ever allowed their fancy
to estimate what it must be — that great
bowl which we, magnificent belittlers
of the grandest of Nature's achieve-
ments, call a lake, yet which, were it
in Europe, would have become one of
the seas of the world, paraded by fleets
of war and dividing empires?

It is the largest body of fresh water
in the world, as we have all heard time
and again ; but those are mere words,
and convey no idea that any mind can
grasp. How long and wide is it, how
does it compare with salt-water seas of
which we know, and how with bodies
of land of which we have some knowl-
edge ? By such an analysis we shall
learn that Lake Superior is indeed one
of the wonders of Nature and one of
the proudest of our possessions — or
semi-possessions, to speak more cor-
rectly. The great lake is 360 miles
long and 140 miles wide at its largest
crossing. It possesses a superficial

area of 32,000 square miles, or four
times as many square miles as the
State of Massachusetts. Roughly
speaking, if we could turn the State
of Indiana into water it would make
another lake the size of Superior.
Michigan itself is not twice as large,
nor is Wisconsin, which is a trifle
smaller than the State of Michigan.
Lake Superior has 1500 miles of coast,
or within 500 miles of the coast extent
of the great Black Sea.

But the seas of the world are salty,
and this lake is like a colossal diamond
— clear, pure, sparkling, lying like a
heaven-lighted gem in a bowl of rich
greenery fringed with a lace-work of
chromatic rocks that take on the most
weird and enchanting shapes. The
transparency of the water is so remark-
able that it is no uncommon thing to
see the complete outlines of a boat as
it moves through the water, and I have
myself seen not only all the divisional
lines in the hull of a lake propeller and
her keel and rudder, but the screw
itself, while it revolved slowly, was in
plain sight, so that the vessel looked as
it might do if it were moving through
the air. This astonishing clearness is
not peculiar to the great lake alone,
but is a characteristic of all the bodies
of water in the entire Lake Superior
region, be they little lakes or big ones,
be they rivers or rivulets. At Mar-
quette or Mackinac, or wheresoever
you journey in this paradise of the
seeker for pure air and Nature un-
alloyed, you may count the pebbles in
the water's bed at a depth of twenty-
five feet. Nature's other handiworks
are equally clean, if I may use the ex-
pression, so that all the beautiful rock-
work that illuminates the lake shore
scenery is as sharply defined and trimly
cut as it is possible to conceive it.
The giant clifts that rise above the

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

great lake — itself 630 feet above sea-
level — lift their lengths sheer into the
air without any of the usual clutter of
rubble and rubbish that is washed
down and banked halfway up the sides
of similar cliffs in other parts of the
country. This it is that gives their
wonderful charm to the Pictured Rocks
and to the cliffs about Mackinac and
elsewhere ; no walls reared by men's
toil rise more freely and cleanly above
their bases.

Globe-trotters and wonder seekers
who fancy that if they have " done "
Yosemite and seen Niagara they must
seek foreign climes for other experi-
ences worthy of their effort, will travel
the world around and find no counter-
part of Superior. It is grand, majestic,
sublime and beautiful, and no part of

poets never was greater than when lie
wrote these lines, commensurate with
the grandeur and color and weird
effects of the lake and its scenery :

" On the clear and luminous water
Launched his birch canoe for sailing ;
From the pebbles of the margin
Shoved it forth into the water;
Whispered to it, ' Westward ! Westward !'
And with speed it darted forward,
And the evening sun descending
Set the clouds on fire with redness;
Burned the broad sky like a prairie;
Left upon the level water
One long track and trail of splendor,
Down whose stream, as down a river,
Westward, westward, Hiawatha
Sailed into the fiery sunset.
Sailed into the purple vapors,
Sailed into the dusk of evening."

I met an Ojibway Indian across on
the Canadian side of the lake, and. not
half believing he would understand a
word of what I repeated, asked him if
he knew those Indian words I re-

it is more wonderful or worthy of de-
scription than the reach of four hun-
dred miles made by the Duluth,
South Shore and Atlantic Rail-
way beside the gleaming waters upon
which Longfellow causes the mystic
Hiawatha to embark and sail away
into that oblivion which shrouds per-
petual life. The greatest of America's

membered that Longfellow used in his
poem. Many of them he knew and
others he was familiar with in slightly
altered forms. It was a tribute to
the sincerity and accuracy of the poet
that he should have mastered so much
of the old Algic tongue, whose difter-
ing dialects are yet spoken by all the
red men on our northern border, from

ALONG THE BOWSTRING.

FISHING IN THE RAPIDS.

the Rockies to Maine. But to me,
alone in a canoe in a bay of the great
lake, with a red man as a companion,
there was a mysterious accord between
my feelings and the soft cadence of
the grand song of Hiawatha. I ven-
tured to express my feelings to a friend
on shore who had no idea or object
above the getting of trout or deer, and
he rudely broke the spell of my fancy.
" So that's what you've been think-
ing about, eh?" said he. "Well, I've
been thinking about tomato cans and
picnic grounds, and excursion boats
and fellows in tennis blazers. They'll
all be here the first thing you know.
This whole lake will be ruined as soon
as folks find out about it. It will be a
regular summer stamping ground for
the whole country, and where will we
go to fish and get deer then ? Old Sir
John Lubbock is perfectly right. He
savs the time is not far off when no

animal as large as a sheep

will remain on earth, and

that the hunters of that

period will go armed with

microscopes, and will search for

queer insect life in swampy glens.

Bah ! when I think of the shooting

galleries and dancing pavilions and

lovers' walks that the shores of this

lake will surely soon be turned into,

it makes me tired."

He was right. The great Ameri-
can people will not long be satisfied
with the small space along the At-
lantic coast that is available for
summer resorts. As the population
multiplies, convenience as well as
superior attractions will develop this
more salubrious region. It was a terra
incognita too long. Discovered for
the white man 240 odd years ago, the
great lake remained for nearly two
centuries almost unknown to the world
at large. Even to-day it is not suf-
ficiently well known to take its rank
among the wonderlands of the conti-
nent, and we see Florida and the
Pacific coast discussed and pictured
ten times to every mention of this re-
gion of more potent attractions. The
signs that the nation at large is awaken-
ing to its beauties are unmistakable,
however, and the people are beginning
to claim that which the missionary, the
fur trader, the hunter and the aborigine
have too long enjoyed by themselves.
The first time I touched the hem —
if I may borrow a woman's word — of
that vast sheet of water I saw a tiny
member of the vanguard of the coming

lo DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &' ATLAXTIC RAILWAY.

multitude. He was a little boy who
appreciated the privilege of living amid
all that grandeur, as the sequel showed.
I disturbed him in a cause in which he
felt that two could not engage, for as 1
approached he stooped, and, seizing e
pebble, flung it into the water.

"There !" said he, "that settles it.
I'll never see you again."

I engaged him in a moment's con-
versation, and learned that this was
his very original method of bidding
adieu to the lake, which had been re-
garded by him as a sort of companion
and playmate, for he had no brothers
and sisters, and of houses there were
none other than his own home in many
miles around.

" Do you like living here ?" I in-
quired.

" Yes, I do," he said, quite posi-
tively, " and Pop likes it ; but Marm
says there ain't no ' sassiety ' here and
she won't stand it — and whatever
Marm says * goes ' with Pop — and that
settles it."

I felt in my heart that the woman
was right; indeed, in a moment the
boy took himself off and I, too, was
left without "sassiety."

I could feel the immensity of the
unsalted sea that reached away before
me. Since then I have come upon
Superior at different points, and every-
where that imperial quality has im-
pressed itself upon my mind. It is
not merely big in itself, it is big in all
its environments and details — in what
you might call all its features. In few
parts of the coast of the Atlantic itself
has Nature done such bold, majestic
work as she scatters lavishly all around
Lake Superior ; indeed, south of New
England the Atlantic is dependent
upon the imagination of the beholder
for the awe and respect it inspires,
since what might be called its shore
scenery is everywhere tame. Very,
very far from tame is the setting of
this grand bowl of clearest water which
our nation seems to be holding above
its head, as if in a perpetual invitation
for all the world to partake of our
bounty ; or, better yet, as if holding

up a goblet in offer of this incessant
toast to all mankind :

" Your health."

Massive stony walls, giant cliffs,
fierce battlemented rocks, are the char-
acteristics of Superior's shores; mighty
fortifications against the still mightier
water, for everywhere the eternal
masonry of the land is torn and ragged.

If you look upon a map of our
country and draw your pencil from
Sault Ste. Marie at one end of Lake
Superior, to Duluth at the other end,
you will have marked a straight line,
and that straight line is the route of
the Duluth, South Shore and
Atlantic Railway, which invites us
to enjoy the beautiful region it has

ALONG THE BOWSTRING.

rescued from the wilderness and is
now offering to the people ; the peo-
plewho are undertaking the mighty
task of nation-building, as well as the
people who seek health or rest or
Nature's loveliest phases.

Popularly called " The Short
Line," it bears a happily chosen name,
as is shown by the straight line you
have drawn on the map. We have all
read of the manner in which a mighty
Tsar called for a map of Russia, and,
laying a ruler across it, drew a pencil
line straight from one great city to
another, saying " Build a road on that
route." We have no Tsar here, but if
we had it would be scarcely possible
for him to have ordered a more direct
highway across the continent than that
of which this railway forms a part.

While the map is before you, please
note the fact that if you continue that
line you have drawn beneath Lake
Superior, and push your pencil across
the continent, it will pass through
Fargo and Bismarck and Spokane
Falls, and will dip into the Pacific
Ocean at Seattle and Tacoma ; for
you will have unconsciously drawn the
route of one of the transcontinental
railways. Go back now and push the
li || line eastward, and you will
run it through Montreal.
You cannot parallel that
pencil mark anywhere else

upon the map and find anything like so
straight a route that railway men have
previously marked upon the actual
face of our country with their enduring
lines of steel. The Duluth, South
Shore and Atlantic Railway was
needed to complete that perfect con-
summation of the traveler's ideal, to
connect the East and West, directly,
without those irreparable losses that
most railways are obliged to cause
their passengers by unavoidable in-
directness.

By way of Montreal, in the swift,
gliding palace coaches of the Cana-
dian Pacific Railway, the traveler from
Boston or New York will easily con-
vince himself that, though his cities
are off this great transcontinental high-
way, his loss of time in reaching it is
vastly less than he will suffer by taking
any other route. Though it is no part
of my pleasant task to speak of any
other than the magnificent region
along the south shore of Lake Su-
perior, I cannot keep from my mind
the memory of the really wonderful
novelties and delight that I enjoyed
in making just that journey piecemeal
from ocean to ocean. In Canada the
way runs through a country new born
to the influences of civilization, a
region of woodland, lake and stream,
the reservoir whence the great lakes
draw their supply. Then the majestic
stretch south of Lake Superior, in-
comparable in its scenic and its sani-
tary qualities, new born also, but born
to the mighty and progressive force of
American enterprise, and fairly throb-
bing with the activity of its develop-
ment.

The eastern man who journeys
through the West does not draw a
favorable comparison between the
diversified, picturesque and often ro-
mantic scener)' of the thirteen original
colonies with the mighty monotony of
the plains or the bare hugeness of the
western mountains. But on the south
shore of Lake Superior, be he how
prejudiced he may, he realizes that in
this great boudoir of Dame Nature
there is both the variety and the

12 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

witchery of his own famiUar cUmes,
blended often with a boldness and
majesty that it will puzzle him to try
to parallel nearer the Atlantic region.

And so he passes on to the imperial
prairie, where he will obtain food for
wonder as he comes upon town after
town, sprawling thousands of wooden
houses upon miles of the sea of grass.
He will not say with Cleopatra, "Give
me to drink mandragora, that I might
sleep out this great gap," but will come
back with a slight misgiving about that
conceit he has felt as a New Yorker,
and will find himself wondering how

long it will be before some of those
mushrooms of the plains will be de-
manding their rights to hold future
World's Fairs. But before he does
come back he will be whirled up the
Rockies and over their crests, and will
drop into the glory of sun and verdure
on the other side, to find that the
straight line he has been pursuing
across the continent needs only just a
little bending down through the Willa-
mette Valley to terminate it at San
Francisco.

A wonderful line, that ! A wonder-
ful journey !

THE JOURNEY.

FROM SAULT STE, MARIE TO DULUTH.

This new railroad that bids for the
favor of the most fastidious public is
second to no medium of transportation
in the world in any of the particulars
that go to make the comfort, the safety
or the economizing of time, which
must ever be the excuses of corpora-
tions for building new lines and of the
journeying public for patronizing them.
It is at Sault Ste. Marie that we first
find its iron steeds hitched to the
palatial coaches of the age we enjoy.

Quaint Sault Ste. Marie, young only
to those who know not it nor history,

repeating a tender feminine name as
lovers are said to linger on the name
of her whom they hold dearest of her
sex. "I'm going to Susan Mary,"
said the one. " I envy you," the other
answered. Imaginative by nature, I
all but fell to. dreaming of the happy
lot of him who seemed to be rushing
to his beloved's presence. But, alas !
it was Sault Ste. Marie, the city, of
which he spoke, as I found later when
I heard others call it "Susan Mary."

Everyone knows how the words
should be pronounced, of course. In
French, which we are not, " So Sant
Ma-ree ;" in English, which we speak,

l.M THE LOCK.

but known to us who read as dating
back 223 years to A. D. 1668, when
Pere Marquette founded the settle-
ment oftenest called "the Soo" for
short. It happened once that I was
on a railroad in Ontario and heard
two commercial travelers continually

"Soo St. Mary." It is there that the
"Soo" is found in the shape of falls
or rapids in the St. Mary's River —
whence the name. The Gateway at
once to the isle-studded Huron and
the lordly Superior, it is a narrow
but busy pathway for the keels of the

14

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

two countries, whose hands, ever-
reaching toward one another, seem
here almost to meet in the clasp that
symbolizes the unity that many predict
must sooner or later be brought about.
The principal connection by which
the tourist reaches or leaves Sault Ste.
Marie is the Canadian Pacific Rail-
way— the most direct and most superb
route to and from all eastern points.
This line follows the river and lake
shore for miles, with only a short
portage between the waters of Lake
Nipissing and " Utawa's flowing tide,"
and forms a very picturesque route to
the eastern sea-board. The tracks of
"the Short Line" and of the Canadian
Pacific are connected by means of the
great International Railway bridge
built at an expense of over half a
million dollars. At Sault Ste. Marie,
also, connection is made with the
steamship lines for all points on Lake
Huron and the Georgian Bay, with
the Lake Superior Transit Co. for
Buffalo ; the Lake Michigan & Lake
Superior Co. for Chicago, and the boats
of the Delta Transportation Co. for
Mackinac, Cheboygan and Petoskey.

SHOOTING THE "sOo" RAPIDS.

SAULT STE. MARIE has several
fine hotels, from whose balconies the
visitor can watch the roaring, dashing,
foaming rapids, with genuine Indians
in the foreground, who, in their light
canoes, skillfully dip the shining white-
fish from its element. These Indian
boatmen, hailing from a reservation

near by, derive an income by renting
their canoes and their own skillful
services toward a sport which for dash
and exhilarating effect cannot be ex-
celled— ** shooting the rapids" — an
experience never to be missed and
always to be remembered. It is a trip
having more apparent than real dan-
ger. The Indian pilots have spent their
entire lives on and about the rapids,
know almost every rock in them,
and so skillful have they become in
the use of their paddles, that not one
accident is recorded. For those who
love fishing there is good sport with
the rod on these excursions, for very
fine large lake trout are plentiful.

The lake boats — carrying a com-
merce greater than threads the Suez
Canal, and continually in sight of the
tourist as he sits on his hotel piazza
or walks the walls of the greatest locks
in the world — are a source of unfailing
interest and instruction. The locks
in the foreground, the foaming rapids,
the Canadian Islands beyond, with
rocks and evergreens striving for place,
the old Hudson Bay Company's trad-
ing post, and rising in the background
the Canadian
hills, emerald and
bold, make aland-
scape well worth
seeing and cer-
tain to be en-
joyed.

During the
summer season
there are almost innumerable
excursions to be taken from
the Sault — to Bruce Mines, to
Point aux Pins, to Garden
River, to Little Rapids, and
last, but not least, to "go
fishing."

FAMED IN HISTORY.

We have heard of places that were
called cradles of history, but this and
the other old forts and posts of Mich-
igan were in a region that may not at
all irreverently be called a whole nur-
sery of history. What other section
of the country can claim, as this justly

THE JOURNEY

15

claims, to have borne the brunt of two
wars ? It is worth the while of any
American to pause for the moment we
shall spend in considering what part
in the making of America this remark-
able district has played.

Though Marquette founded the
settlement, he was not the discoverer
of the region. According to the tra-
ditions of the Ojibways, the French
traders {courreurs des bois) reached
here ahead of the Jesuits. The mis-
sionaries first saw "the Soo " in 1641,
and named them the Sault de Gaston,
in honor of the younger brother of
the King of France. In 1660 Father
Mesnard passed up the rapids into
Lake Superior. Claude Dablou and
James Marquette arrived in 1668 and
founded a mission among the Indians,
calling it Sault Ste. Marie. Thus it
claims the distinction of being the
oldest town in Michigan. In 1689 the
mission was abandoned, owing to the
growing importance of Mackinac as
a fur-trading centre.

In 1750 the French Governor of
Canada, Jonquiere, gave to Captain
de Bonne and Chevalier de Repen-
tigny a grant of land bordering upon
the rapids and river Ste. Marie six
leagues, on condition that a palisade
fort should be erected. This was
built, and a farm was cleared and
stocked with cattle. The chief pur-
pose of the post was to prevent the
Indians of Lake Superior from going
down to Oswego, where they received
presents from the English and were
being seduced from their allegiance
to the French. It had hardly been
completed before the French and
Indian war broke out, and Bonne and
Repentigny left the post in charge of
Jean Baptiste Cadeau. Upon the
surrender of Mackinac to the British,
in 1762, a detachment under Lieut.
Jeannette proceeded to take posses-
sion of the post at the Sault. He met
with no opposition, but as, in Decem-
ber of that year, fire destroyed the
whole station, Cadotte was left in un-
disputed possession. During the Pon-
tiac conspiracy Cadotte was friendly

to the British, and his wife, who was
of unusual force of character, pre-
vented the recapture of Alexander
Henry, the only Englishman who sur-
vived the massacre of Old Mackinac.

In 1802 a British post was re-estab-
lished here. During the war of 181 2
a band was organized under John
Johnston, at Sault Ste. Marie, to go to
the assistance of the British at Mack-
inac, who were being hard pressed by
the Americans. The latter had their
revenge, however. The schooner
"Scorpion," in July, 1814, landed a
force of infantry under Major Holmes
at the Sault. He burned the trading
post to the ground. Johnston and
his company escaped. Governor Cass
visited the place in 1820, and on his
recommendation General Hugh Brady
was sent in 1822 to found a garrison,
which has since borne his name, Fort
Brady.

The 'discovery and development of
the mineral resources of the Upper
Peninsula of Michigan rendered im-
perative and urgent the construction
of a ship canal around the rapids at
Sault Ste. Marie. Governor Mason,
in 1837, advised the building of such
a canal, and work was begun in 1838.
The military authorities, who con-
sidered the work an infringement
upon the right of the general govern-
ment, drove the contractors off the
ground with an armed force, and work
was not resumed until 1853. The
contract called for two consecutive
locks 350 feet long, seventy feet wide,
and with a depth of thirteen feet of
water and with proper approaches.

On the 2ist of May, 1850, the canal
was completed at a cost of $999,802.-
46, and resulted in adding Lake Su-
perior to that system of water-ways
which is the pride of the northern
border. Sault Ste. Marie lost much
of its commercial prestige as a result,
but in 1870 the building of a new lock
by the Federal Government gave it a
new impetus. This was completed in
1 88 1, and now a third one has been
rendered necessary by the increasing
traffic, and Congress has appropriated

i6

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAr.

more than $3,000,000 for its comple-
tion. This third lock will be 800
feet long inside of the gates, 100 feet
wide and twenty-one feet deep. A
pier is to be constructed in front of
Fort Brady, and the present pier ex-
tended 1000 feet. A power canal is
being constructed which will have
Lake Superior for a supply basin and
the source of a power estimated at
over 700,000 horse-power and capable
of supplying unlimited power for
manufactures.

SOO JUNCTION.— Taking our
places in the cars, we find that the
verdict of those who have gone before
us is true, and that, though we are to
penetrate some primitive districts, we
shall do so amid those elegances with
which the Duluth, South Shore
AND Atlantic Railway is replete,
and which cause men to-day to speak

as confidently of the comforts of rail-
road travel as their grandsires did
of the afwcomforts of stage-coaching.
Modern cars, broad-tracked and on
yielding springs, a straight and level
road, powerful and swift engines, polite
attendants and officials — these are the
necessary concomitants of the modern
railroad, and these are guaranteed
upon the present journey. The ride
of forty-seven miles which brings us^
to Soo Junction is sufficient to set
the traveler's doubts at rest, and to
allow him to prepare his mind for a
delightful journey. At this junction
a branch bears off to the south-east-
ward to St. Ignace and Mackinac, a
side journey to be experienced here-
after, for the charms of Mackinac are
too seductive to be treated merely en
passant.

THE JOURNEY.

17

Newberry and the extensive works
of the Newberry Furnace Company-
are quickly passed,
and so are those busy
stations of the lum-
ber trade, McMillan
and Seney.

We are journeying
through a region of
vast extent as well

as vast activity
in the lumbering
business. The
camps of the log-
gers frequently
relieve and ren-
der picturesque
the scene in this,
which once
might have been
called the "forest
etern al," but
which the swift,
unerring blades
of the axemen are
thinning most
portentously.
And yet, when
one considers the
territory that is
the field of this
industry, all act-
ive fear of a

failure of the timber supply is lulled
to rest. Timber and water, water
and timber — these are the alternat-
ing, but persistent features of this
region. Lakes, rivers, creeks and for-
ests swing by with endless repetition.
And let it be noted that no true
sportsman who loves the prizes of
which wildest nature is most prolific
needs many minutes of journeying
over this reach of the railway be-
fore there will leap to his mind the
confident conviction that he is in

A WONDROUS PLACE FOR ROD
AND GUN.

A new field, also — as little de-
pleted and as rich in store of game
as any in the United States. The
silvery lanes of crystal water in
which the trout lurk are astonish-
ingly numerous. The reason is
simple. This is the bight of land,
or " divide " between two great
basins, and there are streams flow-
ing northward into Lake Superior,
and as many more
following the water-
shed of Lake Michi-
gan. Trout are very
plentiful, and very
large and finely fla-
vored. In the larger
streams and in the
lakes is goodly store
of other fish, nota-
ble for the sport that
must preface their
capture or for the
delicacy of their
flesh, or for both
allurement s.
The musk al-
longe, monarch
and tiger
of fresh-
water den-
i z e n s, is
here found
in great
numbers
and of
splendid
size. His

DULUTH SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

companions are pike, pickerel, perch
and black bass.

For the gun and rifle the prey is
notable. Deer, bear, geese, ducks,
grouse and partridge lead the smaller
quarry, which the sportsmen will find
active employment, not in hunting
merely, but in bagging. This railroad,
so fortunate in following the water-
shed in this remarkable country, also
boasts a resident population possessed
of all the facilities for equipping par-
ties of huntsmen and fishermen, and
yet not at all inclined to over-estimate
the value of their services. At any of
the stations named thus far, and at all
of the principal ones farther across
the upper peninsula, sportsmen can
outfit completely. They will find
comfortable inns at the towns and
villages, and whatever appurtenances
they need afterward, be they guides
or boats, bait, teams
or whatever, and al-
ways on reasonable
terms. The streams
encountered on ei-
ther side of Soo
Junction are mainly
tributaries of the
Tahquamenon Riv-
er, which flows into
Lake Superior; while
beyond, around
Seney, the streams
are tributary to the
Manistique River, a
feeder to Lake Mich-
igan. These streams
are very numerous,
and so are the lakes
and ponds in the
same district. From
Seney, by a run of thirty-five miles
— as straight as ever bullet sped
from gun to game — passing Driggs,
Creighton and Shingleton, we come
to Munising.

MUNISING AND PICTURED ROCKS.

MUNISING.— The sportsman, the
idler and the sight-seer may all be
surfeited here, but for the sight-seer
is the greatest delectation, since this

is the point of debarkation from the
train to make the side-trip to the
Pictured Rocks. They lie to the
northward, fringing Lake Superior.
In the other direction a short journey
brings a disciple of Izaak Walton to
the beginning of a series of lakes and
streams that empty into Lake Mich-
igan. The nearest, two miles off, is
Long Lake, and seven miles farther is
Sixteen-Mile Lake, two famous haunts
of game fish. The " entire region is
well stocked with trout, perch and
black bass.

But we are sight-seers as well as
sportsmen, and in a stage-coach at
the station we are bundled in with a
light-hearted company bound upon a
four-mile ride to Old Munising on
Munising Bay. It is a delightful ride,
up hill and down dale, through dense,
cool forest and sunny glade ; and
presently, when the
brow of the last ac-
clivity is mounted,
there spreads before
the view one of the
most beautiful of
harbors — Munising
Bay.

OLD MUNIS-
ING is a distinctly
drowsy old place
that had one era of
bustle and briskness
and then went to
sleep, to find the
hand of Time now
rudely awakening it
to begin a new
career of activity.
But it is all the bet-
^ ' ter that it is such a

place as it is, for no new, fresh painted
modern village would suit its sur-
roundings so well. Did my reader
ever happen to come across ''The
Castle of Indolence," so as to be able
to note the similarity between the
poet's description and this beautiful
region of the Pictured Rocks? Read
the lines while you are looking at
Munising Bay, or when you are sailing
leisurely amid the wondrous rocks.

THE JOURNEY.

19

You will never forget one or the other
afterward, for one is the written echo
of the other :

A pleasing- land of drowsyhed it was,

Of dreams that wave before the half-shut eye;
And of gay castles in the clouds that pass,

Forever flushing 'round a summer sky :
There eke the so^ delights that witchingly

Instil a wanton sweetness through the breast,
And the calm pleasures, always hovered nigh;

But whate'er smacked of 'novance or unrest
Was far, far off expelled from this delicious nest.

large and inviting hotel, and another
is to be found on the island beyond.
THE PICTURED ROCKS are
"just around the corner," so to speak,
and are reached by and viewed from
the decks of the handsome steamers
that periodically ply between the

HUNISING BAY.

The sheltered harbor, enclosed be-
tween high bluffs at the sides and
made to seem all but land-locked by
the distant, softly-outlined heap called
Grand Island in the background, is
not only beautiful in a high degree,
but, as the artist who drew its picture
expressed himself, "it rests you just
to look at it." The chromatic waters
of the bay, now excelling and now
mimicking the coloring of the clear,
bright sky, the quaint old village with
its ruins of an iron furnace of an
earlier day, the soft island and gentle
bluffs — these are all alike invested
with an inherent quiet and air of
seclusion whose restful influence it is
impossible to escape. Opposite the
old village, on Powell's Point, is a

village and the dozen-mile series of
fantastic cliffs and natural monuments.
For those who have time sailing par-
ties over the same route are arranged,
and afford participants a new and,
some think, a better view than that
obtained from the larger vessels.

Constance Fenimore Woolson has
written a description of the region
that may not be easily excelled. She
says :

" The Pictured Rocks stretch from
Munising Harbor eastward along the
coast, rising in some places to the
height of 200 feet from the water,
in sheer precipices, without beach
at their bases. They show a con-
stant succession of rock-sculptures,
and the effect is heightened by the

20 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &> ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

brilliancy of the coloring — yellow,
blue, green and gray, in all shades of
dark and light, alternating with each
other in a manner which charms the
traveler, and so astonishes the sober
geologist that his dull pages blossom
as the rose. It is impossible to enu-
merate all the rock pictures, for they
succeed each other in a bewildering
series, varying from differing points
of view and sweeping like a panorama,
from curve to curve, mile after mile.
They vary, also, to various eyes, one
person seeing a castle with towers
where another sees a caravan of the

the Chimney's and the Miner's Cas-
tle, a detached mass called the Sail
Rock, comes into view; and so strik-
ing is the resemblance to a sloop with
the jib and mainsail spread, that, at a
short distance out at sea, anyone
would suppose it a real boat at anchor
near the beach. Two headlands be-
yond this, Le Grand Portal, so
named by the voyageurs, a race now
gone, whose unwritten history, hang-
ing in fragments on the points of
Lake Superior, and fast fading away,
belongs to what will soon be the
mystic days of the fur trade. The

INU PORTAL.

desert ; the near-sighted following the
tracery of tropical foliage, the far-
sighted pointing out a storied fortifi-
cation with a banner flying from its
summit. There are, however, a num-
ber of the pictures so boldly drawn
that all can see them near or far, even
the most deadly practical minds being
forced to admit their reality. Passing

Grand Portal is loo feet high by
1 68 feet broad at the water-level;
and the cliff in which it is cut
rises above the arch, making the
whole height 185 feet. The great
cave whose door is the Portal,
stretches back in the shape of a
vaulted room, the arches of the roof
built of yellow sandstone, and the

THE JOURNEY.

sides fretted into fantastic shapes by
the waves driving in during storms,
and dashing up a hundred feet
toward the reverberating roof with
a hollow boom. Floating under the
Portal, on a summer day, voices echo
back and forth, a single word is

" Farther toward the east is La
Chapelle of the voyageurs. This
rock-chapel is forty feet above the
lake, a temple with an arched roof of
sandstone, resting partly on the cliff
behind, and partly on massive columns,
as perfect as the columned ruins of

A SAIL ALONG THE PICTURED ROCKS.

repeated, and naturally the mind re-
verts to the Indian belief in grotesque
imps who haunted the cavern and
played their pranks upon rash in-
truders.

Egypt. Within, the rocks form an
altar and a pulpit ; and the cliff in front
is worn into rough steps upward from
the water, so that all stands ready for
the minister and his congregation.

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

The colors of the rock are the fresco,
mosses and lichens are the stained
^lass; and, from below, the continuous
v/ash of the water in and out through
holes in the sides, is like the low, open-
ing swell of an organ voluntary. A
Manitou dwelt in this chapel — not a
mischievous imp, like the spirits of the
Portal, but a grand god of the storm,
who, with his fellow god on Thunder
Cape of the north shore, commanded
the winds and waves of the whole
lake, from the Sault to Fond du
Lac. On the chapel-beach the Indians
performed their rites to appease him,
and here, at a later day, the merry
voyageurs initiated the tyros of the
fur trade into the mysteries of their

y ,'

craft, by plunging them

into the water-fall that

dashes over the rocks near

by, a northern parody on ' crossing-

the-line.'

"The Silver Cascade falls from
an overhanging cliff 175 feet into
the lake below. The fall of Niag-
ara is 165 feet, ten feet less than

the Silver, which, however, is but a
ribbon in breadth, compared to the
' Thunder of Waters.' The Silver is a
beautiful fall and the largest among
the pictures; but the whole coast of
Superior is spangled with the spray
of innumerable cascades and rapids,
as all the little rivers, instead of run-
ning through the gorges and ravines
of the lower lake country, spring
boldly over the cliffs, without waiting
to make a bed for themselves. Un-
dine would have loved their wild,,
sparkling waters.

" The coast of pictures is not yet
half explored, nor its beauties half dis-
covered; they vary in the light and in
the shade; they show one outline in
the sunshine and another in
the moonlight ; battlements
and arches, foliage and vines^
cities with their spires and
towers, processions of ani-
mals, and even
the great sea ser-
^, ■ _ pent himself , who

at last, although
still invisible in
his own person,
, . has given us a
'"" ' kind of rock-
photograph of
■ — his mysterious
''-'' self. In one place

there stands a
, majestic profile locking to-

ij^ wards the north — a woman's

face, the Empress of the
Lake. It is the pleasure of
her Imperial Highness to
visit the rock only by nighty
a Diana of the New World.
In the daytime search is
vain, she will not reveal her-
self ; but when the low-down
moon shines across the water,
behold, she appears. She
looks to the north, not sadly,
not sternly, like the old man of the
White Mountains, but benign of
aspect, and so beautiful in her
rounded, womanly curves, that the
late watcher on the beach falls into
the dream of Endymion; but when

THE JOURNEY.

23

he wakes in the grey dawn he finds
her gone, and only a shapeless rock
glistens in the rays of the rising sun."

To the pleasure-loving tourist or
connoisseur of Nature's gems, the
Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior
carry with them an interest entirely
unique and excelled by no other
wonders of our country, not even
excepting the Yosemite or Yellow-
stone Park.

AU TRAIN.— Back again in the
cars for a journey to another lake
resort, only thirteen miles from Muni-
sing. This brings us to Au Train
station and Au Tr.\in island, the
latter being abundant in other ex-
amples of the curious sandstone
formations that fringe the great lake
as with colored lace work cut by the
gigantic hands of Nature. You can
see the island from the railway, but
it needs a personal visit for an exam-

ination of the columns, colonnades,
grottoes, caves and castellated effects
of centuries of incessant wave strokes
upon the rocks. Au Train itself, on
the mainland, has a vicinage full of
attractions. The hotel and cottages
peeping between the trees compose an
alluring little watering-place for those
who seek merely rest and ([uiet com-
bined with the ozone of pure air, the
safeguard of an equable and delightful
temperature, and the stimulus and joy
of beautiful surroundings. But here,
also, is the Au Train River, famous as
a fishing stream, and making its way
by a series of plashing and turbulent
cascades, with Au Train Lake only
two miles from the station. All
this water yields abundant trout a,nd
bass, and the bush around it affords
good sport for hunters. All the para-
phernalia for shooting and fishing is
obtainable at the station, and excellent

AT AU TRAIN LAKK.

24

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

camping grounds for resting places
or hunting camps are abundant.

ONOTA is but a few miles beyond,
on the line of the railway, and here
lies Deer Lake, one of the most en-
chanting sheets of crystal that reflect
the verdure of this beautiful region.
Deer Lake is between the railroad
and Lake Superior, and is a mile in
length and one quarter as wide. It
lies shut in by high sloping walls of
dense timber,
as secluded
and quiet as it
is beautiful.

Capital is
being employ-
ed to construct
a number of
good picnic
grounds with-
out injury to
the scenery,
and already
some quaint
and cosy
lodges add
to the pict-
uresqueness of
the lake's sur-
roundings.
Here is good
sport with rod
and reel, and
in the deep yet
pellucid water
one may actu-
ally see, at
times, the
tiger -like mus-
kallonge and
darting bass
whose haunts

are there. The great king of all lakes,
Superior, is only a quarter of a mile
from this silvery V^asin, and from the
northern rim of the lesser bowl the
great fresh-water sea expands before
the view. Of course, the same oppor-
tunities for exercise with the rifle and
gun are to be found here, and outfits
are as readily obtainable at this as at
ether stopping places.

One of the forest industries is

charcoal-burning, and as the kilns in
use can be "seen from the cars the
novelty of the journey is enhanced.
The kilns or ovens are great cones
built of fire-brick, and capable of
holding immense quantities of wood
which is filled in from the top. The
apertures are then closed, and as the
wood undergoes the process of con-
version into coal, steam and smoke
burst out of the circles of vent-holes

26

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

in the sides of the cones. The pro-
cess is interesting, and the sight ot' a
collection of thirty or forty of these
ovens in operation is very picturesque.
DEERTON is two miles west of
Onota, and here are found the Sable
(or Whitefish) River, and three miles
south another excellent fishing ground

called Whitefish Lake. All this dis-
trict is noted for the abundance of its
trout, and the Carp and Chocolay
Rivers, fifteen miles farther west, still
further extend the field for sport in
the capture of speckled trout and
black bass.

CHARCOAL BURNING AT ONOTA.

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

the four miles of road
that lie beyond Choco-
lay the track hems the shore of the
great lake, following the curve of
Iron Bay ; and, constantly increasing
to more and more impressive propor-
tions, the traveler sees the great
docks, the substantial public edifices,
the factories and the beautiful hill-
crowning residences that compose the
city of Marquette. The city is en-
throned in regal state upon a com-
manding bluff, and the first view of
it, as the cars emerge from the deep
shadowy forest, startles the traveler,
who sees a full-fledged and progressive
modem city leap, as it were, out of a
vast forest, and without hint or prepar-
ation as if it had

Lay hid, as sleeps the music of the m(x)n,
In the plain eggs of the nightingale.

Marquette, the "Queen City of
Lake Superior," is by all odds the best
built, wealthiest and most beautiful
city on the south shore of Lake Supe-
rior. Like the Biblical ideal, it is *' set
upon a hill," or, rather, on high ground,
ensuring perfect drainage, and over-
looking Iron Bay, a beautiful repro-
duction of the Bay of Naples, which
indents the shore to a distance of ten
miles from the main body of the great
lake. The streets of Marquette are
. electric lighted, broad, well paved,
and usually bordered with great slabs
of serpentine marble or redstone, as
bright and clean as the best boulevards
in America, Its business blocks are
fine, large and substantial. A new
opera house block has been con-

structed at a cost of ;ijJ7 5,000, giving
the city the finest amusement hall east
of Duluth and north of Milwaukee.
The business section of the town is in
the " Hollow," the residences on the
circling hill-sides. The correspondent
of a New York newspaper says : " I
have never seen a more desirable place
for a summer home than Ridge Street.
It is laid out on a bluff, perhaps 200
feet above the lake, shaded with
double rows of young maples and
lined with cottages of modern archi-
tecture interspersed with solid stone
mansions and square, old-fashioned
country seats. Fountains play on the
lawns, there are conservatories filled
with rare flowers, there are elegant
interiors ; and yet, a mile away, is the
original wilderness, with bear, deer and
the great northern wolf in undisputed
possession. The highest civilization
is in strange juxtaposition with the
fiercest wildness. The town has a
high-school, housed in a large, well-
appointed brownstone building, with
primary, grammar and high-school
departments efficiently conducted ;
elegant stone churches, a musical asso-
ciation, two public libraries, several
excellent hotels, and a ladies' literary
club which circulates the latest books
and magazines."

What the correspondent really wrote
was, that the ladies circulate " the
latest books and magazines and several
excellent hotels." There is more in
that than appears at first sight. I
know several hotels whose owners
would like to have them " circulate.'''
But those hotels are not in Marquette.

28 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6* ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

Marquette has above 10,000 popula-
tion, and this is rapidly increasing ;
but if population bores you there re-
main long walks into the forest, strolls
by the lakeside, lovely rides and
periodical excursions to the trout

feet of water. In this respect the
famous crystal-like depths of Lake
George are excelled. How wonderful
it is that nothing sullies this enormous
mass of fresh water in any of the lakes
or their outlet, the St. Lawrence! And

streams, magnificently stocked,
which may be reached anywhere in the
woods by a tramp of from two to ten
miles.

The drives from Marquette to Har-
vey four miles, to Mount Mesnard two
and one-half miles, to Collinsville four
miles, and around Presque Isle eight
miles, are all delightful.

Presque Isle is the name of a high
headland two miles north of Mar-
quette. It was deeded to the city by
the Federal Government for a park,
and is reached by a good macadam-
ized road, built along the beach and
encircling the point. In constructing
these roads through the forests of
noble trees with which the headland
is covered, barely timber enough has
been cut away to allow carriages to pass
each other. On the warmest of sum-
mer days one may drive there without
being in the least annoyed by the sun's
rays and without ever losing the grand
view of the apparently limitless ex-
panse of the deep plue waters of
Superior. The water appears many
shades darker than the azure of the
sky, yet so transparent that one may
detect the smallest objects in twenty

yet the water's purity seems greatest
in Lake Superior. A teaspoon lying
on the bottom at a depth of twenty feet
appears its own size ; it is in reality
magnified, as at that distance it would
look smaller through the atmosphere.

But for the improvements above
mentioned Presque Isle is almost its
primeval self as the Indian knew it.
Its shores are rugged sandstone cliffs,
broken here and there by the waves
into fancifully formed caverns, pillars
and arches. The strata are nearly
horizontal, and the veins of different
colored minerals make a singularly
striking appearance. It interested
Agassiz immensely when he visited it
a few years before his death.

Presque Isle is even a more lovely
objective point for a sail or a row than
for a drive, and it offers wonderful
allurements for the rest and picnic
lunch which so pleasantly break in

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

upon a rowing or sailing excursion.
From the water there seems to be a
gigantic portal — an open door through
the majestic cliff ; and the Eastern eye
that first beholds it and its surround-
ings is struck with that which I have
mentioned before as a Lake Superior
peculiarity — that is, the cleanness of
the sheer wall of stone, never smoth-
ered to half its height with the rubbish
washed down from the top, but rising
clear and abruptly out of the pale-
green water. Among all the wonders
of this fascinating exploration we are
making on the south shore of Lake
Superior we shall see few spectacles so
impressive and beautiful as this.

This spot was once the site of a
flourishing Indian village of the Chip-
pewa tribe, and as these Chippewas
were far removed from their enemies
the Dakotas, many of the young
braves had never drawn bow or toma-
hawk in combat. On this account
they were tantalized and called squaws
by their brethren on the frontier.
After enduring this a long time a war
party was organized to wash away
with blood these imputations of cow-
ardice. Before setting out in search
of their enemies, the party, thirteen
in number, appointed a young man as
runner to accompany them, watch the
result, and, in the event of their de-
struction, to hasten back with the tid-
ings. They soon fell in with an enemy
four times their number. Selecting
their ground and directing the runner
to take a position from which he could
see the battle, they made their onset.

They killed twice their own number
and then retreated to a place of en-
trenchment. Enraged at the loss, the
enemy pursued, fell upon, and, amidst
great carnage, slew them all. The
young Indian runner was seen by
Governor Cass soon after his return,
and the Governor listened with much
interest as he recounted the incidents
of the thrilling adventure and chanted
his requiem song in eulogy of the
fallen.

The new electric lighting power
dam near the Collinsville mill, which
the city fathers of Marquette have
constructed, is a typical example of
the enterprise which in this part of
the West leads much smaller places to
have " whatever's going," be it elec-
tricity or la grippe. Marquette has
purchased the power privileges and
put up a dam at an expense of $30,000,
and thus obtains the power for the
electric lighting system put in opera-
tion during the past year. The Col-
linsville mill, now fast falling into
decay, is said to be the oldest iron
furnace in the State, and stands on
one of the most picturesque spots of
the many that beautify Dead River.

FISHING NEAR MARQUETTE.

" Would that Dead River bore a
name less grim, for some of my pleas-
antest outings have been upon its
bank." So writes a friend of the
author. " One day my friend Phil,
invited me out trout fishing on its
head waters. Our outfit comprised

so DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

two lance-wood poles with reels, half
a dozen extra hooks for each, earth-
worms for bait, a preparation of tar,
carbolic acid and sweet oil for smear-
ing the face as a sap to the mosqui-
toes, a basket for the *' catch," stout
hob-nailed shoes, and the oldest suit
of clothes our wardrobes could fur-
nish. After a ride of four miles
through the pine and poplar forest,
we tied our horses to the fence of a
farm house perched on a bluff over-

half a mile above. The roar of the
water-fall sounded deep in the forest,
and the water flowed swiftly, though
it was easily fordable. Here we rested,
watching the
gurgling wa-
ter and anon
casting a

TEAL LAKE.

looking the stream. Here we had a
pretty woodland scene. The river
valley for a mile had been cleared,
and was green with clover and wheat
fields ; while on the bluffs, on either
side, the primeval forest still stood
gaunt and sombre. We passed up
the right bank and at last, where the
river impinged sharply on bold bluffs,
we climbed the elevation and struck
into the dense forest. A perfect tangle
it was. Footprints of deer were as
common here and in the open as sheep
tracks in a New England pasture, and
now and then a broad trail through
the reeds marked the recent passage
of a bear. We were crossing a deep
ravine by a fallen tree, and below was
as dense a thicket as eye ever peered
into. Out of this, as we crossed, came
a deep growl, a perfect symbol of
ferocity. We agreed that we had no
call to explore that thicket, and pushed
on, coming out on the river perhaps

sprig into the stream to watch its
bright verdure form a fitting wreath
to the lily-like foam as they together
floated rapidly down the amber-hued
stream.

" Presently we began fishing. The
method is to wade down stream in
water reaching from your knees to
your waist, cast, and let your hook
run down with the stream. Phil,
crossed over and took the opposite
bank. Presently I hear a splash on
his side, his reel whirrs, then he winds
in, and in due time slips a pound trout
in his basket. The next is mine, then
he strikes and loses one. So we go
down stream, meeting with varied
luck, until, when near the clearing, we
compare baskets, and find that Phil,
has ten fish and I twenty. This was
explainable, as Phil, had broken his
rod and left four hooks to beautify
the branches of the trees near the
bank."

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

31

FISHING FOR THE MARKET.

From Mount Mesnard we
have an extended view of the
lake and surrounding territory.
Immediately below and to the
north lies the city, its streets
terraced one above another on
the rising hill-sides. Iron Bay
sweeps its ten-mile circle to the
very base of the Mount. Fur-
ther north Presque Isle stands
out in picturesque boldness, and
beyond the "Gitchie Gummee"
extends until the deep blue of
its waters is lost in the opal-
escent paleness of the hori-
zon. East, south and
west hill, valley and
silvery stream glorify
the entrancing scene.
" Down on the
wharf are two

^f^-^c.

l^^y^

THE COVE, PRESQUE ISLE.

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

33

small frame buildings, beside which are
huge reels on which nets are wound.
The interiors of the buildings, laden
with nets and hooks and lines, tarred
rope, barrels of salt, ice boxes, oars,
boats and barrels of salted fish, send
forth a fishy and tarry odor quite
delightful to the landsman. Every
afternoon, at about four o'clock, two
busy little tugs come fuming and
puffing up the harbor and are made
fast abreast these fish-houses. The
forward hatch is thrown off and the
" catch " of the morning is displayed ;
hundreds of gleaming whitefish, long
piratical-looking lake trout, silvery
herring, and now and then a stur-
geon, just to remind us that we are in
Hiawatha's land. The Lake Supe-
rior whitefish are perhaps the most
delicious scaled creatures known to
the epicure. They are caught weigh-
ing from three to thirty pounds. The
extent of the catch may be computed
from the fact that one firm in Mar-
quette shipped last summer more than
a hundred tons of fresh fish, yet the
supply does not seem to diminish."

I am glad to be able to give an ac-
count of a day on one of these tugs
by a clever and observing writer. All
who love the water will enjoy it ; and
yet the information it contains is its
more notable feature.

"The tug left between dawn and
sunrise. The east was all aglow, and
the west dark by contrast, as we put
out into the lake. There was a twenty-
mile run to be made before reaching
the first * pound ' to be ' lifted,' and
we found a warm corner in the pilot-
house, and with a cigar inveigled the
skipper into a chat that in time be-
came unconstrained and confidential.
Wonderful lore of the lake we pick
up here on the water from the sailors
and fishermen.

'* This father of lakes, we learn, has
his tides, pulsations and heart-beats.
We ourselves observe in our evening
walks along the curving beach that the
waters have sometimes risen, some-
times receded. There are three regular
m.ovements of the water, old water-

men say — a daily rise and fall, an
annual, and a cyclical, the latter oc-
curring about once in twenty years.

" In early winter the lake is covered
with fogs, and the constant evapora-
tion so drains its waters that they are
much lower in spring than in autumn ;
but when the snow melts and the
rivers pour in their floods, the water
rises, attaining the maximum about
the 25th of June. Then there is a
constant and permanent recession of
the waters, insomuch that in time
much that is now covered by the lake
will be dry land. In the plain between
Marquette and the lake
on the north may be
seen several distinct
ridges, now far inland,
which once formed the
shores of the lake. The
coldness of the lacus-
trine waters, we learn,
is another phenomenon.
In winter the mean
temperature of Lake
Superior is thirty-six
degrees, in summer for-
ty, a difference of only
four degrees. This
water, too, is chemic-
ally pure, so that all
the good people of Mar-
quette had to do to get
pure city water was to
run a crib out into the
lake and pump the water into
reservoir.

" By and by the boat approaches
the first pound. The square enclosure
forming the pound is set in deep water,
and a line of netting leads from the
shore or shoal water out to it. The
men, taking the small skiff, row inside
the pound and proceed to lift the net.
The water foams and boils as the latter
approaches the surface, and dark backs
and fins and gleaming sides flash in the
foam. The net is pursed, then lifted
bodily, and the contents — a fine as-
sortment of lake beauties, trout, white-
fish, muskallonge, suckers and a stur-
geon— are emptied into the boat. As
we bowl along to the next pound the

the

34

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAIL WAV.

skipper is led to descant on the habits
and characteristics of the lake fish.

" The chief food fish of the lakes,
both in quantity and quality, is the
whitefish. He has his preferences
and idiosyncrasies, which the fisher-
men, to ensnare him successfully, must
carefully study. His food is chiefly
snails, slugs and limpets attached to
the rocks, so that a rocky bottom is
his chosen haunt. In the spring and
summer months he retires to deep
water and is found several miles from
shore. In the fall he comes in close
to land, and the nets are often spread
from the rocks. The long, slender,

SAW-MILL NEAR MARQUETTE,

fork-tailed trout
is the pirate of
these waters.
What the shark
is to the sea he
is to the lake —
voracious and
ferocious. He will eat any-
thing. The fishermen found
in one a pebble as big as a
man's fist, in another an old
hat. A full grown lake trout
may weigh sixty pounds, and
will attack anything but a sturgeon.
Trolling for them is a favorite amuse-
ment. The muskallonge looks like
an immense pike ; his food is also
smaller fish, and he is also caught
with the trolling-spoon. Tb'^ stur-

geon, now, is his opposite ; gets his
food by suction, like a catfish. His
skin is black and smooth, scaleless as
an eel's. A great deal of the cod-
liver oil of to-day comes from the
liver of the sturgeon."

MARQUETTE IRON MINING.

'' Some forty-five years ago a party
of surveyors running the west line of
township 47, range 26, observed
strange variations in the magnetic
needle, and thereby discovered rich
deposits of the richest hematite and
magnetic ores. Capitalists from Cleve-
land and elsewhere came in, opened
the mines, built two rail-
roads to Marquette, the
nearest port, and began
shipping the ore to Cleve-
land for smelting." There
are now seventy-three
mines on the Marquette
range which extends thirty
miles inland.
From forty of
these mines
2,634,817 gross
tons were ship-
ped in 1889,
while the out-
put for I 890
reached the
enormous quan-
tity of 4,000,000
tons. Four large ore docks, reaching
out into the bay from 1000 to 1600
feet and forty-seven feet above the
lake, have been constructed to facili-
tate the handling of this great traffic.
These docks are the scene of intense
activity day and night during the
season of navigation. Ambitious lit-
tle switching engines take the ore
trains from the yards, whither they
come from the mines, and push them
out on the wharves. There red-
shirted " trimmers " swarm on them,
knock out the pins that hold the
bottom of each car in place, and
the twenty-ton loads drop into the
"pocket" in the wharf. These pockets
hold from ninety to one hundred and
fifty tons. At the bottom of each

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

35

^,V_

pocket is a hinged chute or spout
twenty feet long, which is lowered au-
tomatically into the hold of a vessel
wharf ed alongside ; simultaneously the
door of the pocket rises and the red
or blue ore is precipitated into the hold
below. Vessels of 3000 tons may thus
be loaded in three hours.

MARQUETTE — A MONSTER SAW-MILL.

Having passed through an enor-
mous lumbering region, if we look for
its sequel at Marquette, we shall not
be disappointed. Visitors to the
pretty Iake--side capital will notice an
enormous saw-mill by the
water side. The idea of
visiting it may not occur _^ ,

to most tourists but, they
may take my word for
it, they will find the visit
well worth while, and
when they leave the
building it will afterward
remain pictured in their
minds as the abode of a
wonderful dragon — a
monster subjugated to
man's control — that
chews up whole forests
and converts them into
building material with
much less effort than a
melting pot transforms
metal into liquid. Every-
thing within the mill is
done by steam, and that is controlled
by the simplest levers. A tree trunk
is taken, no man touching it, and
hauled against the saws which bite
it into lengths and move it along,
cutting it as it proceeds, until within
two minutes from the time it rested
in the water it forms part of one of
the piles of lumber behind the mill.

AN EXTENSIVE MINING REGION.

Back in the cars and gliding away
from Marquette, we are quickly at
.the busy lumber town of Eagle Mills
and four miles from Negaunee, a city
near the population of Marquette
(8,000) and one of the chief mining
centres in the -great Marquette Range.

Here the Chicago & Northwestern
R. R. makes connection for Escanaba,
Milwaukee and Chicago. Westward
again three miles is

ISHPEMING, the largest city on
the Marquette Range. It boasts
15,000 population, and a number of
attractions that the tourist should not
miss. Within a radius of a dozen
miles there are many beautiful lakes,
nine in all, accessible by well-main-
tained and picturesque carriage roads
capable of affording the lovers of
horse-flesh or of scenic beauties many
days of pleasure. It is one of the

IRON MINE SHAFT AT ISHPEMING.

important mining regions of the
country, and mines are numerous in
the neighborhood of both Negaunee
and Iskpeming. These are mainly
iron mines, though a few are worked
for gold, and as the method of " open-
pit working" is largely followed here,
at such the process may be witnessed
without the discomfort or dread of
accident which attends mine visiting
by means of shafts and galleries far
beneath the surface. Teal Lake,
which my artist companion has so
exquisitely pictured, is one of the
beauty spots of this neighborhood.

HUMBOLDT, twelve miles to the
westward, is the point of junction for
a branch of the railway leading to

36 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

Republic and the Republic Mine, and
four miles farther west is Champion,
the northern terminus of the Milwau-
kee & Northern Railway — another
means of reaching Chicago and Mil-
waukee.

THE world's greatest COPPER
REGION.

NESTORIA is the starting point
of the branch road to L'Anse and
the twin cities of Houghton and

L.AKE MICHIG.'MMB.

MICHIGAMME has important in-
terests of its own, and some of them
possess attractions for tourists, but
that which is conspicuously interest-
ing here is Lake Michigamme, one
of the largest and most beautiful of
the sheets of emerald that bejewel
this gem-decked corner of earth.
The railroad skirts this lake for sev-
eral miles. The lake is seven miles
long and three miles in width. It is
walled in by luxuriant verdure rising
and falling upon its hilly rim, and is
dotted with pretty islands. Here
again is the sportsman's turn, for the
hunting and fishing are both excellent.

Close at hand is Nestoria, point
of departure for the principal copper
region of the world.

Hancock, busy mining towns upon a
hilly neck or promontory that pushes
its great bulk far into Lake Superior.
A ride of seventeen miles from Nes-
toria brings the tourist to the town of
L'Anse which is beautifully situated
on a delightful indentation called
Keweenaw Bay. The rails cross an
arm of the bay to Baraga and thence
the course is nearly due north to
Houghton, thirty-one miles from the
main line. This city is on the south-
erly side of Portage Lake, and oppo-
site on the other shore is Hancock.
The map will reveal to you what the
sight of this water does not, that it is
rather a strait than a lake, for it sepa-
rates a great body of land, called
Keweenaw Point, from the mainland,

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

37

practically cutting the promontory in
twain. Vessels of the greatest tonnage
in the lake commerce find depth and
room for navigation through the lake,
and as Houghton and Hancock
(called " the twin cities of the Gitchie
Gummee") are the ports of this great
copper region, from them are shipped
the vast and incessant output of that
metal, the mining of which is by far
the most profitable industry in the
Lake Superior region. " Keweenaw,"
the name of this great metal-veined

to procure copper without first pro-
pitiating him with rites and gifts; then
trembling and in silence, they lighted
fires around some exposed mass of
the metal, and, when it was softened,
they hastily cut off a small quantity
and fled to their canoes without look-
ing back. So strong was their dread
that for years the explorers were un-
able to obtain from them information
about the Point, neither would they
act as guides, although tempting
bribes were offered.

<?*>-

HOUGHTON.

arm of land, is Chippewa for "portage,"
and according; to Picturesque America
it has a mining history older than our
civilization:

" Centuries ago," reads the tale, " its
hills were mined, and the first white
explorers found the ancient works and
tools and wondered over them; when
they were tired of wondering they
ascribed them to the extinct mound-
builders, whoever they were, a most
convenient race, who come in for all
the riddles of the western country,
and never rise from their graves to
say to us 'No.' The Chippewas of
Superior were full of superstitious
fear regarding Keweenaw Point. They
believed that a demon resided there,
and they dared not visit his domain

Then came the geologists, unwill-
ing to believe that native copper ex-
isted in such a locality, but forced to
concede the fact when solid masses
of five hundred tons confronted them.
Gradually they found that this long
point held the greatest copper mines
in the world, those of the Ural
Mountains in Russia sinking into in-
significance in comparison with them;
and upon this discovery speculation
started up, and fortunes were made
and lost in the eastern cities in cop-
per stock by men who barely knew
where Keweenaw was, as they tossed
it like a football from one to another,
and jabbered off its Indian name with
easy fluency.

Throughout this excitement and

38

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

after it died away, however, the Point
kept steadily producing its copper
from the hills until now not only does
it supply the whole country, but its
wealth is even sent across the ocean
to aid the old world.

On Keweenaw are several lakes,
among them the lovely Lac-la-Belle
of the voyageurs, and the north shore
of the Point is bold with beautiful
rock harbors."

CALUMET AND RED JACKET.
— At Houghton a transfer is made to
the cars of the narrow-gauge Mineral
Range Railway for a toiling, up-grade
ride to the village of Calumet and
Red Jacket. To borrow the excel-
lent and lucid descriptive language
of Mr. John M. Talman :

" The novitiate is at once struck by
the peculiar appearance of the streams
which now gurgle along his way.
Their waters are of a nondescript

and two-story buildings, and sure
enough we are "in it" — in Calumet
and Red Jacket, practically one town,
the location of the world-renowned
Calumet and Hecla mine. Only em-
ployes of the company are allowed
in the mine — recent history recording
only one exception to this rule ; but
by nosing around the surface (easy
enough, a couple of our party being
journalists, each with "a nose for
news " and with eyes and ears keep-
ing open house), what we don't ac-
complish doesn't amount to much.

" The geologist — him of the atten-
uated figure, two -acre spectacles
and Niagara whiskers — will tell you,
whether you are aware of it or not,
that the native copper in these dig-
gings takes the form of conglomerates.
That is to say, it is mixed with rock,
although it is sometimes found in
masses, whereas in the generality of

HANCOCK.

tint, something between a reddish
brown and boarding-house coffee,
due to their thorough impregnation
with copper ore. Hills, hills, every-
where ! Up, on and up we continue
until a cluster of gigantic chimneys,
something like 150 feet in height,
looms up to our view from the midst
of a scattered aggregation of single

mines the copper is discovered in the
form of red oxide or sulphide of iron,
as yellow copper ore, or copper
pyrites. Here the great cost of re-
ducing ore is obviated, consequently
the expense of turning out commer-
cial copper is brought to the mini-
mum. The mine is located on a
system of rocks by geologists called

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

39

the ' copper-bearing series,' and by
miners dubbed the Copper Mineral
Range.' This conglomerate rock
ranges from ten to fifteen feet in
thickness, extending to an unknown
depth into the earth, and streaked
and veined for more than a mile of
its length with metallic copper which
is so pure that it may be stamped
into pennies without the intervention
of further processes. At this mine a
depth of 3300 feet has been attained.
" The great compound engine of
3000 horse-power — stronger than the
two Corliss engines at the Centennial
Exposition combined, and being, in-
deed, the largest engine on the globe
—can supply power until a depth of
4000 feet or more has been reached.
The vein is penetrated by ten shafts
which are connected with galleries
100 feet apart. Work is here carried
on night and day, except Sundays,
giving employment to 2000 men or
more and supporting the villages of
Calumet and Red Jacket, whose com-
bined population exceeds 10,000.
The machinery employed in elevating
the copper rock to the surface and in
pumping and condensing air for the
drills is on a prodigious scale and of
the most perfect description. The
company's stamp mills and furnaces,
located at Lake Linden and Grover-

ton, a short distance from Calumet,
constitute the largest single copper
plant in the world.

"In 1889 work was suspended for
several months in consequence of a

most disastrous and all but unquench-
able fire in the mine. Business was
completely paralyzed, and not a little
suffering among the miners' families
entailed; but operations were resumed
several months ago, and now scarcely
a trace of the recent awful scourge
of flame is observable. This mine
(which, in passing, is five miles back
from the shore of Lake Superior), has
been truthfully described as re-
sembling a section of a rectangular
city, having ten parallel main avenues,
each with its railroad, reaching nearly
a mile into the earth and intersected
by about thirty horizontal streets a
mile in length. It is a veritable sub-
terranean city, without a parallel in
the history of mining enterprises."

AND NOW FOR MORE PLEASURE.

When the return to Hancock is
made, as it must be, the tourist will
find a first-class hostelry to be the
Douglas House, or if the halt be
made at Hancock the Northwestern
Hotel will be found replete with all
modern accommodations and com-
forts. These two are excellent hotels
in every sense of the term. Near
Houghton the Douglas Falls will be
found worthy a visit. Those who
have seen the Bridal Veil Falls in the
Yosemite Valley insist that one cas-
cade suggests the other. Also within
a short journey from Houghton is the
Otter River which furnishes great
numbers of the grayling trout or
Thymalbis tricolor It is said to be
the only stream in upper Michigan in
which this coveted fish is found.
A writer in Outing says " that a vis-
itor from a lower latitude will be im-
pressed with the silence he finds
reigning amid these deep woods."
Doubtless he will see abundant evi-
dences cf the presence of animal life,
but it is a life hiding in the shadows.
Even the birds are songless, and when
surprised, as they often are, flit noise-
lessly out of view. But along the
valleys of the streams where the sun-
light comes in and all the conditions
are favorable to the sustaining of

40

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAIL WAV,

animal life, one may expect to find it
abounding. It was so along the val-
ley of the Otter.

" This green and sun-streaked glade was rife
With sights and sounds of forest life."

** What a covert for wild beasts the
brushy thickets near the stream and
the dark woods beyond did present.
Side by side in moist places were to
be seen the tracks of the deer and of
their mortal enemies the gray wolves.
Twice we heard the 'long drawn
howl' of the night prowlers, and one
day as I stooped to drink at a spring,
while wandering in the forest,
I noticed in the soft earth
beneath me the footprint of a
Lupus. He had lap-
ped there not many
hours before. Two
or three places we
saw where Bruin had
left the print of his
moccasin, but
neither wolf nor bear
gladdened our sight
the voyage through.
One deer and one
only we saw and that
was one evening as
the shadows were
dropping down,
when one carelessly
ran bang up against
our camping
ground."

Between Hough-
ton and Baraga (a
lumbering centre)
many fine trout
streams are passed,
while the lakes and
ponds in the same
section of country
contain perch, pick-
erel and pike.

Concerning this
branch with the cop-
per region, from Nes-
TORiA to Houghton
and Hancock, over
which the return
journey to Nestoria

is now being made, there are interest-
ing facts which were not previously
stated and yet should not be over-
looked. At Summit the altitude of
the railroad is 1170 feet above Lake
Superior and almost 1800 feet above
tide-water, yet L'Anse only twenty
miles distant is but 100 feet higher
than the lake. Portions of the inter-
vening road-bed have a grade of 170
feet to the mile, and in the course of
that journey the Fall River is bridged
by the railroad. A gradual descent
is made from Summit to Nestoria,

42

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

and in that reach of the journey the
Sturgeon River is crossed nine times.

BEAR AND DEER, AS WELL AS FISH.

Again at Nestoria on the main line
a run of twenty miles brings the train
to Perch, at which point the elevation
of the road-bed above the lake has
been almost imperceptibly reduced to
800 feet. The Perch River which is
crossed where it flows fifty feet below
the railroad gives the station its name.
From SiDNAW, the next station, the
trains of the Milwaukee & Northern
Railway run to Ontonagon, the old-
est city on Lake Superior, and from
SiDNAW westward for thirty-one miles
the route of the tourist who is meta-
phorically making this journey with
the author leads through an almost
primeval wilderness. The word "wil-
derness " sounds differently to differ-
ent ears. Let us read how the place
itself appeared to Judge Banta as he
afterwards gave his experience and
impressions to the readers of the
American Angler:

" I had managed to pass over the
entire ninety miles between Gogebic
and Nestoria by daylight, and had
thus been enabled to get a view of
the country. I had seen but little
game, but from what I heard, and
especially from the signs seen, I knew
that I was in a country abounding in
both deer and bear.

" But it was not game that I was
after. It was trout, and I think I
have written enough to show that in
a space of little
over twenty
miles, I had
found a region
that would sat-
isfy the most
exacting. I
think it quite
likely that if I
could keep the
location of this
region secret I
would do so,
but as a rail-
road runs

through it that cannot be done, so I
fling the news broadcast.

" I fished four streams within the
twenty-two miles, between the middle
branch of the Ontonagon and Perch
River, and I think I got all of any
consequence the road crosses ; but I
heard of other streams, both to the
north and south of the road and ac-
cessible from it, where trout fishing is
said to be equally as good as in the
streams I tested.

" The country is a wilderness, and
will be to all intents and purposes for
a few years yet. It is an uneven
country, its surface being cut up by
small streams and occasional swamps.
It is a country of thick forests, and
dense thickets frequently occur. But
the camping ground is good. On the
Middle Branch, on Spring Creek, on

A MORNING START WITH THE DOGS.

MARQUETTE AXD PRESQUE ISLE.

43

the East Branch, on Perch River, are
excellent camp sites, with good water
close at hand."

ONTONAGON FALLS.— At
EwEN the train crosses the Ontona-
gon River as it has crossed many
another before, but there are con-
ditions about this particular passage
which cause it to be remembered by
the traveler even though he forgets
all the other rivers he has seen. The
first element in the pleasurable ex-
perience is surprise ; the next and
enduring one is delight over the
revelation of beauty that follows.
The train leaps, from not at all extra-
ordinary surroundings, out upon a
bridge nearly loo feet above the
beautiful stream and seems poised,
as a swallow, in mid-air. The Falls
of the Ontonagon are in full view.
The spray from the falls glistens like
diamonds in the sunlight, and the
watery veil screens, as with a web of
open lace, the features of the rocky

ledge behind it. It is worthy anyone's
leisure to stop here and drink in the
views of this cataract that are obtain-
able. It is toilsome work to reach
the bottom of the falls, but from
there is obtained the best view of
them. The railway bridge you have
left above you has become a mere
thread against the sky. Looking
down the stream you see the falls in
all their majesty and beauty.

SPORT,

HEALTH AND REST AT
GOGEBIC LAKE.

Thickly forested the country still
remains, and lumbering camps and
centres are to be seen to the end of
the journey ; but something far dif-
ferent from any mercantile industry
awaits the tourist at Gogebic. That
something is presently to be seen
from the car windows. It is Lake
Gogebic whose edge the railway
skirts for a distance of four miles.
The lake is already famous It must
very soon be popular,
for it and its vicinage
tempt the tourist, glad-
den the camper-out,
electrify the angler, and
bring health and good
spirits to the invalid.

GOGEBIC LAKE is

universally conceded to

furnish the best black

bass fishing in

America.

Close to the sta-
tion of the same
name as the lake
good camping
grounds are
found, but a
^ boat ride of fif-
t e e n miles
brings a tourist
to the Gogebic
House and

44 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

Cottages, a modern and comfortable
caravansary, where accommodations
are afforded for more than loo guests.
A company is now planning to erect
a large hotel at the north shore of
the lake convenient to the railway,
and to be built and appointed so as
to stand without a rival.

The supremacy of the lake as a
haunt of black bass has been vouched
for by veteran sportsmen who rank
as the best authorities from all parts
of the United States. A half-dozen
trout streams empty into the lake,
and during early spring brook trout
may be caught in its waters. They
abound at all seasons in the tributary
streams. There is a steam yacht
under control of the hotel manage-
ment, as well as a large fleet of
sailing and fishing boats which can
be obtained at reasonable rates, with
or without guides. As the lake is
fifteen miles long and abound-
ing in exquisite views the
pleasures of boating upon it
need experiencing rather than
describing.

CAN THERE BE PURER AIR?

Aside from its merits as a . .
resort for sportsmen and the
general tourist, the vicinity of
the Gogebic Lake possesses
advantages as a sanitarium,
which have given it a well de-
served and national reputation.
700 feet above Lake Superior,
and yet only twelve miles from
that vast body of fresh water,
the purity of the atmosphere
can be imagined by the
reader — at a distance —
can be tested by the tour-
ist on the spot. Add to
this the fact that the
beautiful resort is in the
heart of great pine and
hard wood forests. Not
only do they further pu-
rify the atmosphere, but
they temper the air to a
quality remarkably soft
and salubrious.

These are advantages such as are
enjoyed by few other regions accessi-
ble by railway, no matter how much
has been said in their behalf. The
climatic consequences of the peculiar
position of Gogebic Lake are such
as to recommend the region highly
to all sufferers from pulmonary ail-
ments, and sufferers from hay fever
or malaria will also find it especially
curative. Hay fever is not only un-
known here, but many afflicted with
that complaint have been entirely
cured within twenty-four to forty-
eight hours after their arrival at
Gogebic Lake.

The same writer who has once before
been quoted as a contributor to the
American Angler, said of this lake
in an article published in January,
1889 :

" When I reached my goal I was
not sorry that I had made the journey.

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

45

Gogebic Lake has been too often
written about in the sportsmen's
papers for me to consume time and
space in any description of it in this
place. It is enough to say that the new
line of the Duluth, South Shore
AND Atlantic Railway skirts the
shore along the north end for a dis-
tance of four miles. I went to the
Gogebic for the purpose of spending

The green woods, the clear waters,
the crisp, balsam-laden breeze, how
charming they were and how surely
they made me forget the pupose of
my coming ! "

TOWARD superior's HEAD.

Westward from Gogebic Lake the
railway gradually ascends until Thom-
ASTON, the headquarters of the west-

GOGEBIC LAKE.

my time fishing, but somehow I
changed my mind after I got there.
I saw many persons go out upon
the beautiful Gogebic waters, and
it seemed so easy for them to hook
and haul in the bass that my desire
to emulate them eluded me. It was
so much pleasanter to sit in the door
of the tent and look at the lake.
Can I ever forget the dreamy fresh-
ness of those days on Gogebic Lake ?

em division of the Duluth, South
Shore and Atlantic Railway is
reached. The way is still through
a thickly timbered country and past
lumber camps and occasional clear-
ings. At Thomaston the height of
the railway above the lake is 750 feet,
but thence westward to Duluth the
grade gently declines until it and the
lake practically meet. At Abitosse,
five miles west of Thomaston, the

46

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

Black River is crossed and a few
minutes afterward the train is at
Bessemer Junction, where upon a
branch road two miles long the
traveler may break the westward
journey by a stop at Bessemer.

BESSEMER is the central point
in the Gogebic Iron Range which
marks the eastern limit of the marvel-
ous Lake Superior mineral region
where, to quote a better posted his-
torian, " the development wrought
during the past five years by the
allied forces of energy and capital
has attained the proportions of one
of the most astonishing revelations
on the continent. To begin with,
from five millions to eight millions of
tons of iron ore are shipped annually
from Michigan's upper peninsula.
Furthermore, within this territory of
150 miles, leads of silver have been
traced, and that potent lever of civ-
ilization and progress, that goal of the
ambitious and the restless and the
miser's pride — Gold — hidden away
among the dark labyrinths of the
accumulated mold of countless ages,
has here been discovered by the skill
and intuition of the prying pros-
pector, as the pure, sparkling draughts
of subterranean springs are revealed
to man through the discerning in-
stinct of the lapwing. No other
section of the American Union is
so wealthy as this, whose gold, cop-
per and other mines promise to yield
greater riches than those which daz-
zled the imaginations of the Forty-
niners as they fought their perilous
way over the continent to the glisten-
ing sands of California."

THE FIRST SIGHT OF WISCONSIN.

MONTREAL is the station at
which, 300 miles from Sault Ste.
Marie, we pass at once the Montreal
River and the inter-state boundary
and begin an invasion of Wisconsin,
happily choosing its most fascinating
section.

I cannot claim the inspiration that
urged his pen who wrote about this
part of Wisconsin in the following

■**i

MARQUETTE AND PREHQUE ISLE.

47

glowing terms, but I can testify that
he had imbibed the spirit of the
region or, as the fraternity of artists
say, he caught "the local color."
Here is the eulogy : " The north-
western quarter of Wisconsin has,
from time immemorial, been the
modest recipient of more flattery
from explorers, hunters, tourists and
health -seekers than any other part
of the delightful Northwest. In
the legends of the ' first families '

often tiresome) reports of government
investigators, such as David Dale
Owen and others, the palm of supe-
riority has been accorded this mystic
region for its diversified beauty, its
charming lakes, stately forests, crys-
tal streams, towering rocks, mysteri-
ous caverns, spray-wreathed cascades,
fairy dells and shadowy grottoes ; for
the beauty and healthfulness of its
climate, for the variety and excellence
of fish and game— in short, for every-
thing that attracts and charms the
lover of the beautiful in Nature."

The first stop in Wisconsin is at
Saxon, where the Milwaukee, Lake
Shore & Western Railway crosses our
steel pathway. In the next reach of
the ride the notable "sights" are bred
of the crossing of tumultuous rivers
upon spans far above their surfaces.
First there is Vaughan's Creek, tum-
bling and plashing seventy-five feet
below the cars and
suggesting, in a min-
iature way, the scene
at Ontonagon Falls.
Two miles farther
west the Bad River
is crossed upon a
bridge that spans its
gully at a height of
sixty feet. And thus,
with another mile of
journeying, the tour-
ist arrives at a point
where he must de-
cide whether to miss
or to see

^^^^^^J^- A- wP>;

FXll6.»

• Neap L"A^5e

ASHLAND
APOSTLE

AND THE
ISLANDS.

(the native Indians), in the tra-
ditions of the now departed pio-
neers, in the camp-fire stories of the
professional trappers and fishermen,
in the ingenious fancies of newspaper
men and in the more reliable (and

MASON is the
point of departure
for this pocket in the skirt of old
Madame Superior — a pocket cram-
med with treats and wonders, not as
unguessable as the contents of a
human female's pocket (for nothing
in the world is to be likened to that),
but rather like the pocket of some
goddess who is not in any mythology,
but who devotes herself to collecting
and preserving the odds and ends

48

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE ^f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

and broken fragments of Nature's
surplusage of charms. Do not miss
the lovely scenes. Who hesitates is
lost. In something like Shakspere's
words in The Tempest :

Come unto these yellow cliffs
With tiny skiffs.

ASHLAND is a place where sev-
eral railroads centre, and you see by
the mills along the shore and the
great fleets of logs the tugs are for-
ever towing down the magnificent
natural harbor, that there is plenty
of material for prosperity here. It
is being well utilized, for Ashland
is one of the most ambitious and
energetic towns on the line. From
the verandas of the Hotel Chequa-
megon, exquisite views of forest and
water may be obtained. Delightful
and well kept grounds add to the
natural attractions of the place,
which offers active pleasures in
abundance. If one wants a sail or
a row on the bay he will find any
number of boats of all degrees of
capacity and stylishness at the piers.
There are boys there, too, to furnish
that " stiff ash breeze " which the old
sailor once said a row-boat has to
have. Or one may join some of the
excursions going to Bayfield or out
among the Apostle Islands on the
natty little steamers that make the
delightful voyage at all hours of
the day.

APOSTLE ISLANDS! How the
name brings back thoughts of the
missionary pioneers. Father Mar-
quette himself, "the central figure of
the lake country history," spent some
time here on Madeline Island, one of
the twenty-four which form a lovely
archipelago in beautiful contrast with
the stern coast to the north and east.
An antiquated Roman Catholic chapel
still stands at La Pointe. It was built
of rough hewn logs, and is now used
as an adjunct of the newer structure.
The chief object of interest in the
roorD is a famous old picture that
hangs over the altar, and that is only
interesting because of a tradition to
the effect that it was brought from

France by the adventurous priests,
whose zeal led them to this wild region.
Some judges who fancy themselves
competent, have pronounced it a pro-
duct of some *' old master," but it is
more reasonable to suppose that it has
no merit unless it has procured it as
wine does, through age.

The bay and the islands beyond are
opulent in picturesqueness. Clean
cut promontories crowned by lofty
trees shoot out into the emerald and
crystal depths, and in spots along the
shores the action of the waves has
created a series of caves, arches, col-
onnades and pillars whose details
human skill might copy, but whose
beauty artifice has never matched.
Numerous pleasant little excursions
to interesting and picturesque points
may be taken from Ashland, above
all a visit to the falls of the Bad River.

MORE SPORT WITH ROD AND GUN.

Duluth is reached by returning
to the main line at Mason, and after
a ride of nine miles Pike River is
come upon and the train bowls along
beside Pike Lake — a bowl of water
that teems with black bass. A large
and fine hotel is an addition to the
equipment of this beautiful resort,
which, taken with the fact that it is
only fifty-five miles from Duluth and
but a few hours' journey from St.
Paul and Minneapolis, makes certain
the present promise that the region
will increase in popularity. Eleven
miles west is crossed the Iron River,
a famous and heavily fish-burthened
sportsman's haunt.

It is a heavily wooded, rolling
country whose surface the cars of the
Duluth, South Shore and Atlan-
tic Railway are now gliding over.
Every here and there one gets either
glimpses of little streams that glint in
the sunlight or of exquisitely forest-
embowered rivers and ponds and
lakes. One of these bodies of water
is the Brule River, not to know
which argues yourself unknown. It
is the king of the trout streams of
the region — we may say of the Union.

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

49

For a distance of 150 miles the
water swarms with the finny beauties,
and only twenty miles of the great
recreation ground is private property.
" Only twenty miles," we say, because
it happens that the St. Louis sports-
man who came there once, a-fishing
and a-gunning, and who fell in love
with the region bought only a twenty-
mile patch with the river flowing
through the middle of it. Why he
did not buy it all we cannot de-
termine any more than we can de-
cide why men who have money
enough do not combine and buy
the whole earth, giving the rest of
mankind the privilege of emigrating
to the moon. On beyond, three trout
streams, the Middle, the Poplar and
the Aminicon Rivers, offer unlimited
sport for fishermen and room and
pleasure for camping parties. When
the Nemadje River is reached the
tourist is within two miles of the
" Minnehaha of Wisconsin" — the falls
of the Black River. Their plunge
from summit to base is above 150 feet.
The name of the river we have men-
tioned— " Nemadje " — means the left
hand, and signifies the river at the
left hand of Superior Bay as one
enters the bay from the lake.

THE SUPERIORS.— The end of
this division of our journey is now
close at hand. The clanging bell of
the locomotive gives tidings of our
arrival at what is called " Old Supe-
rior," to distinguish it from the proud
"younger twin," West Superior,
four miles beyond. " These towns
lie upon the south shore of St. Louis
Bay, with Superior Bay on the east.
West Superior presented the most
extraordinary of all the wondrous
records of rapid growth which were
gathered for the world by the federal
census of 1890. What was this ratio
of increase in the decade from 1880?
Fourteen thousand per cent ! Hadn't
forgotten it, had you ? If so, here is
the explanation : In 1880 there was
no West Superior. In 1890 there was,
and in 1891 there is; and Robert P.
Porter's enumerators reported the

population, in round numbers, at
14,000."

The Superiors possess extraordi-
nary natural advantages. With two
rivers, three bays, a superb land-
locked harbor seven miles in length,
and a level, gently sloping site at
the end of deep water navigation
in the heart of the continent, what
better can any youngster

amongst ^ our cities boast
or want f JjR West, south and
east lies 2. ^m> region watered by
rivers aH^ and lakes

teeming with fish of all kinds, from
the *' speckled beauties " to the thirty-
pound salmon trout, while the forests
remain plentifully supplied with deer.
The Indian hunters and trappers
derive a considerable income from
the sale of the skins of many kinds
of game.

Many legends pertaining to the his-
tory of the Indians dwelling in this
locality abound, and one that I have
read is uncommonly interesting. It
appears that the Chippewas imagined
the home of the Bad Manitou to be at
the gateway to Superior Bay. Because
the currents of the bay and of the lake
conflict just there and keep the water
constantly, though not violently dis-
turbed, they fancied that the evil spirit
kept house in or under the water
just at that spot. They knew he
made trouble everywhere, and the

5°

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &' ATLANTIC RAILWAV.

unexplained disturbance in the water
was therefore a certain sign that this
was where he lived. In order to satisfy
the demon they never passed that spot
in their boats without dropping their
valuables into it as a peace offering.
By their valuables I mean tobacco,
pipes and whatever edible delicacies
they had.

How they expected the Old Harry
to smoke soaking wet tobacco I don't
know, but he evidently was not the
same chap that we are familiar with,
who has positively no liking for water
at all. Besides, our Bad Manitou
rather helps those who want to go to
Canada. At all events, when the
Chippewas felt too poor to bribe the
Evil One, they used to swindle him by
carrying their boats over a portage at
a narrow strip of land that confines
one side of the bay. I suspect ne was
the grandfather of our Davy Jones,
whom all the sailors fear, because the
real genuine proprietor of Hades cer-
tainly always spent most of his time
ashore — and does now.

THE DELIGHTFUL CLIMATE.

The climate, not only here but
throughout the entire region we are
about to traverse, is most delightful.
Summer does not linger in the lap of
spring ; in fact, in this realm of un-
contaminated nature. Miss Summer
knows no such dulDious practices.
Instead, she bounds away from cross
and chilly old Winter, and with a sud-
denness that is surprising, and a love-
liness that is indescribable, she shakes
out her green tresses and decks herself
with flowers, so as to more than make
amends for the length the world has
endured the season of snow and ice.

Nowhere, unless it be in England, is
the summer so luxuriant and opulent
as here. The air, too, is not only soft
and balmy, but it is spiced with the
tonic of the woods.

Here twilight lasts in summer until
ten o'clock, with soft luminous tints
along the northern horizon, beautiful
beyond description, but exercising a
bothersome influence upon children
from the East, who can never be per-
suaded that it is bed-time until the
hours have gone more than half-way
toward midnight.

"long life and good HEALTH."

We are on the eastern shore of St.
Louis Bay, with Duluth's reflection
dancing and nodding its beckoning
towers and walls invitingly. And
cross we must, like so many Leanders,
without any fleshlier queen than a
royal city to embrace us. But ere we
commit our bark to the waves let us
stop and reflect upon the health-
insisting qualities of the pure balsamic
air, clear water and clean land that
have surrounded us for hundreds of
miles in an ever-moving circle.

Mr. Talman asserts (and many a
thousand men vouch for what he says)
that hay fever can no more enter this
region of which Duluth is the capital
than rheumatism can find refuge in a
statue. He writes thus feelingly of
his reasons for speaking with authority
upon the subject : " Eleven years has
he been doomed to suffer annually
for six weeks, more or less, the tor-
ments of the — darned; sneezing with-
out stint, eye-smarting without mercy,
wheezing without relaxation, handker-
chief-using without limit, and swear-
ing— no, no, no ! not that, but want-

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

51

ing to swear — without cessation." Not
the minutest iota of comfort had he
been able to extract from life until he
learned that hundreds of hay fever
patients flee to Duluth every August
for immunity from that frightful
scourge — doubly frightful by reason
of its frequent diabolical partnership
with asthma — and immunity they se-
cure every time. Neither at Duluth
nor at any other point on the south
shore has hay fever ever gained an
instant's foothold."

DULUTH — ZENITH CITY OF THE
UNSALTED SEAS.

DULUTH.— In growth, in the
character of her population, in com-
mercial enterprise and success " the
Zenith City" has exceeded the bounds
of many a boast that a few years ago
served only to raise ironical laughter in
the East. " Co-operating with Minne-
apolis, Duluth has wrenched the
sceptre of supremacy as America's
great centre of the grain trade from
the desperate but no longer availing
grasp of Chicago. This stupendous
feat, high on the list of yesterday's
sheer impossibilities, is one of the in-
dubitable, everywhere-conceded, fully
consummated achievements of to-
day."

It is a hustling, clean, thriving city,
and one in which you miss entirely
the braggadocio with which less solid
cities in the West endeavor to make
boasting hide a lack of merit.

It is a curious fact g.bout so push-
ing a city, but Duluth's attractions
as a summer resort have spread the
city's fame far and wide within the
past two years. With its delightful
climate, where the mercury kindly
limits its parade between sixty and
seventy-five degrees during the hot-
test days of summer ; with its cool
evening breezes that bring invigorat-
ing sleep; its remarkable scenery of
woodland, lake and hill ; with its ec-
centric water-courses and its abun-
dant sport — especially for fishermen
— the only wonder is that its fame
should have been so tardy.

The numerous small streams along
the north shore furnish the best kind
of trout fishing. The delicious lake
whitefish need no praises here, and
of late the fame of the planked white-
fish, as that dish is served in the
Spalding House, is co-extensive with
a knowledge of good living. Feath-
ered game is plentiful the year round,
and all along the St. Louis River, as
well as far back in the tangled wild-
wood, deer are still found in great
numbers, in spite of the advancing
sound of the woodman's axe and the
ravages of the sportsman's rifle.

Duluth's hotel accommodations
are not excelled by those of any city
of its size in the world.

The city takes its name ftom a cor-
ruption of the surname of a noted
Frenchman, Du Lhut. It stands on
the north shore of the bay, at the
extreme western end of the great
chain of lakes, 1750 miles from Que-
bec and 1200 from Buffalo. Although
in age it should be almost a baby in
arms, it has 50,000 inhabitants, and
is not only called but is the " Chicago
of Lake Superior." Its natural situ-
ation is picturesque in the extreme.
From a narrow beach abrupt

hills rise to a height of 500 feet. Upon
the summit of the ridge thus formed
and on what must have been the for-
mer level of the lake is a natural
road-bed 100 to 250 feet wide, which
local enterprise has transformed into

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

53

Terrace Drive, giving limitless views
of the bay, the majestic lake and the
surrounding country.

Nothing about Duluth is more
beautiful or more surprisingly unex-
pected to an Eastern visitor than this
grand drive. It and the others that
connect with it are really what we in
the East call " parkways," — those
evidences of high civilization which

the older
cities, after
one or two cen-
turies of growth,
do not exhibit in
better form or greater
extent than are
found to be possessed
by this baby metropolis of the West.
The quick public spirit that led to
the expenditure of enormous sums on
Duluth's Terrace Drive cannot be
too much commended. It evidences
a regard for something beyond money-
getting and a faith in the old adage
that applies to cities as well as men —
" All work and no play makes Jack a
dull boy." This drive gradually
ascends the stately ridge behind the
city, whence a superb view of both
city and bay is commanded. Several
times the pretty course of the massive
and well built road is interrupted by
natural cascades and ravines spanned
by beautiful bridges. If Terrace
Drive is second to anything of the

sort in America it can only hold that
status in relation to our Riverside
Drive in New York, and in truth, it
is as well made, as wide, and the con-
tiguous scenery is a close second to
our views of the Hudson and Palisades.
The ravines and cascades which
so enhance the beauty of the drive-
way are accounted for in the fact that
a few miles back of the hills are
numerous lakes and
' ■ ' streams, and the latter
follow their courses to
the brow of the ridge.
Thence they dash down-
ward through the heart
of the city, leaping and
tumbling over rocky
beds in innumerable and
beautiful water-falls and
cascades, reaching the
shore of the lake at last
there to mingle with its
waters their spent floods.
On either side of these
" '■ streams are deep ravines,

some wild and rugged and others
sloping gently and thickly studded
with trees. Advantage is being taken
of these natural formations to estab-
lish a system of parks which promises
to be the most picturesque and
unique in the world.

SCRAPS OF EXPLANATORY HISTORY.

St. Louis Bay, separated from the
lake itself by a narrow strip of land,
or more properly two, called Minne-
sota and Wisconsin points, forming
a natural harbor of many miles in ex-
tent, was first visited by civilized men
in 1632 as nearly as history records.
In 1641 Fathers Daniel and Breboeuf
were invited to visit the lake but
came no further than Sault Ste. Marie.
The first white men to leave an actual
reference to this territory were Pierre
D'Esprit (Sieur Radisson) and Madard
Chanart (Sieur des Groselliers) in the
fall of 1661. In 1667 the Jesuit
Father, Claude AUouez, mentions his
visit to the head of the lake, accom-
panied by several traders, and from

54

DULUTH. SOUTH SHORE ^ ATLAXTIC RAILWAY.

this time forward a rich traffic in furs
was carried on.

In 1679 Daniel Greysohlon Du Lhut
came to the head of the lake with a
band of courreur des bois, making his
headquarters in this neighborhood
for several years. There is a conflict
of evidence as to whether Du Lhut or
the Hudson's Bay Company first es-
tablished the old trading post on the
south shore of the bay, but in 1787
the Hudson Bay
C om pan y's men
were driven away by
the newly formed
Northwest Com-
pany, the great trad-
ing company which
was succeeded by
John Jacob Astor's
American Company
after the act of 1816,
after which the
Americans con-
trolled everything
in this vicinity. The
early settlements
were not where Du-
luth stands but on
the opposite shore.

Westward from
Duluth are the
DALLES OF
THE ST. LOUIS,
of which another
writer says : " Here
Nature is harsh, rug-
ged and sombre,
tearing her way in
a water-course four
miles long with a
descent of 400 feet.
The banks are form-
ed of col'd gray slate
rocks, clad with an
ample growth of
bleak pine, and
twisted, split and
torn into the wildest
shapes. Through the dismal chan-
nel thus bordered the current surges
with terrific force, leaping and eddy-
ing, and uttering a savage roar that

the neighboring hills sullenly rever-
berate. Here and there an immense
boulder opposes, and is nearly hidden
by the seething, hissing, foamy waves,
which dance and struggle around
and over it, sometimes submerging it,
and then, exhausted, falling into a
quieter pace. Occasionally the spray
leaps over the banks, and forms a sil-
ver thread of a rivulet, which trickles
over the stones until its little stream

ALONG TERRACE DRIVE — DULUTH

tumbles into the unsparing torrent
again and is lost. This continuous
rapid of four miles is a grand, deeply
impressive sight."

MARQUETTE AND PRESQUE ISLE.

55

A BREAK AND A RETREAT.

" Forward and back again ! " the
dancing masters shout, and if we
may perform such an antic in danc-
ing why not in sightseeing ?

A few hours in the cars after leav-
ing DuLUTH brings us to the great
Twin Cities of the Northwest — St.
Paul and Minneapolis.

On our return journey we bid
adieu to the main line of the Duluth,
South Shore and Atlantic Rail-

are opposite each other, divided by
the Straits of Mackinac. At St.
Ignace a powerful steam ferry trans-
fers the solid train across the Straits
of Mackinac, landing us in Lower
Michigan, where connection is made
with the Michigan Central and Grand

4#i:^l^^k^^''^'<

/NEA^RDULuTh

WAV at Soo Junction and embark
upon the St. Ignace Branch bearing
off to the southeast for a spin

to lovely MACKINAC.

ST. IGNACE is the terminus of
the branch from Soo Junction. It
has a population of 3000 souls. Its
busy iron furnace gives present re-
alization of industry and gain, but
there is promise of greater prosperity
in the extensive deposits of gypsum
that have been found there. At St.
Ignace was buried good old Pere
Marquette, the missionary, whose
mortal dust lies in a great square
burial plot distinguished by a plain
granite shaft. No more appropriate
burial place could have been chosen
than one just here, in the centre of
the vast region that was the scene of
his patient life work, and whose rude
people felt the influence of his ex-
alted character.

St. Ignace and Mackinaw City

Rapids and Indiana Railroads for
Cheboygan, Petoskey, Detroit, Niag-
ara Falls and all the eastern cities
and resorts that most of us are at
once fleeing from, and yet reluctantly
approaching.

As the ferry steams out into the
Straits, there is seen on the left a
" mound of emerald heaped up in a
sea of turquoise" — an immense, tur-
tle-shaped island rising from the
lake's embrace 300 feet in the air,
clothed in the vivid green of tree-
leaf and grass-blade, and formed, as
the beach and winding roadways re-
veal, of a soil nearly as white as
chalk. It is Mackinac — " The Classic
Isle of the Historic Straits" — the
first view of whose majestic beauty
indelibly stamps upon the perceptions
of the new comer a picture of blended
splendor and grandeur that well be-
comes the most popular and fashion-
able watering place west of the
Atlantic.

II i / ^

MACKIXAC.

57

MACKINAC !— Lest the reader
trip and again stumble over the varying
spellings of the word, let it be noted
that " Mackinac " and " Mackinaw "
are both pronounced alike. It is a
characteristic French trick to galli-
cize the words of any language they
touch, and all over the West where
they had early mission fields they
thus spelled words one way and pro-
nounced them another in a way pe-
culiar to their own language and mad-
dening to the blunt and practical
Anglo - Saxon rnind. 'i'he Indians
doubtless pronounced the word
" Mackinaw," but the French could
not have been expected to spell it as
it was pronounced, so they invented
Mackinac. Later, we Americans
gave the right spelling to the name
of Mackinaw City. But remember
that the name is always Mackinaw, no
matter how it is spelled.

Mackinac Island lies like a brok-
en link between upper and lower
Michigan. Around it meet the waters
of the two great lakes, Huron and
Michigan, whose level is 581 feet
above the sea. The island has suffi-
cient area to cause a journey of nine
miles in skirting its shores, yet we may
practically walk all over it in a day.
It is shapen as if it had been made
square, and then some giant force
had pulled each of its corners a little
away. It rises sheer above the trans-
lucent waters, a great plateau, 200
to 300 feet in height, wooded lux-
uriantly and framed with a broad
white beach. Its sides are cliffs, and
many of them have detached or semi-
detached bits that take the form of
pinnacles or half-ruined Gothic towers.

It is evident that the water once stood
250 feet higher up than now against
these cliffs but, as similar indications
are found all along the south shore, it
is plain that the land was not lifted
up, but the water has fallen.

As is the custom with old villages,
wherever they are seen, the little orig-
inal settlement crouches at the foot of
the bluff beneath the fort — a strag-
gling, picturesque settlement of shops
and cottages, churches and hotels,
facing the white strand and the mar-
velously clear water. As is also the
custom with the wiser planning of
mankind to-day, the far choicer high
ground is being built upon with mod-
ern hotels and lovely villas. Up
there, also, is the military reservation
of 103 acres, and the remainder has
been set apart by the Government —
justly appreciating its unique attrac-
tions— for a National Park.

FIRST CLASS HOTELS.

In the hotel accommodations will
be found service for the luxurious as
well as for folks of plainest tastes and
moderate means. The leading hotel
is Plank's Grand, an establishment
comparable with any on the conti-
nent. The " Grand " towers above
a high bluff on the westerly end of
the island, commanding a superb
view of the Straits of Mackinac,
whence comes an almost uninter-
mittent cool breeze. The majestic
building is the first object on the isl-
and apparent from the decks of in-
coming steamers.

The hotel is new and modern in
all its appointments, having beien
built at a cost of $300,000 in the

58 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAIL WAV.

spring of 1887, to accommodate 1000
visitors. It is the finest caravansary
in the north. The " Grand " is 650
feet long and five stories in height,
surmounted by a tall tower, from
which an expansive and uninterrupted
view may be obtained. The arch-
itecture is of the " Old Colonial "
style, its distinctive feature being a
colonnaded portico, upon which all
the windows open. This portico or
veranda is twenty-two to thirty-
two feet in width, and extends the
entire length of the
house, forming a mag-
nificent promenade.

From the large ro-
tunda office opposite
the main entrance,
spacious halls, running the length
of the building, lead to the break-
fast room, dining hall and ordinary
on one side, and to the reading
and drawing rooms, and private
parlors on the other. Of these
apartments, especial attention is
called to the dining hall, a mam-
moth brilliantly lighted and per-
fectly ventilated room, capable of
accommodating 600 people. It oc-
cupies the space of two stories, its
vaulted ceiling being twenty-seven
feet overhead, and the handsomely
decorated windows in proportion.

The guest rooms are all large, light
and well furnished. Each front suite
is provided with a private balcony, a
novel but highly attractive feature.

The hotel is lighted by gas and
electricity, heated with steam, and
provided with an elevator and elec-
tric call and fire-alarm bells. It is
also equipped with barber shop, bath-
rooms, steam laundry and a first-class
livery, the last two enterprises under
the management of A. Fisk Starr,
known to fame as the genial chari-
oteer of Mackinac. An orchestra
discourses music during meal hours
and enlivens the verandaand ball-room
in the evening. The Casino, at the
south of the hotel, furnishes all de-
sirable indoor amusements. The
" Grand " is close to the edge of the

bluff, and the descent to the beach
is about 300 feet, pleasantly made on
a rustic staircase.

There are several other good hotels
on the island, the leading ones being
the Mission House and the John
Jacob Astor House.

Having decided the manner in

which you will be housed during your

stay, the next point is to consider how

you will spend

^ y o u r t i m e :

What are the

GRANDL-HOTEL.

attractions ? Will your holidays be
agreeably passed ?

"there is no place so healthful."

Lieut. Greeley, the Arctic hero, in an
article in Scribner' s Magazine en-
titled, *' Where shall we spend the
summer?" names Mackinac as pre-
eminent in possessing the cool, dry
bracing air necessary to health, while
ex-Surgeon-General William A. Ham-
mond, the famous specialist, long of
New York and now of Washington,
writes that " There is no place so
good in every respect for the ex-
hausted city worker of the East, the
banker, the merchant, the profession-
al man and his wife and children —
who have probably in their way
worked as hard as he has — as the
Island of Mackinac.

" Every breeze that comes to it
blows over the water and parts with
its surplus heat. The air is dry and
bracing ; the middle of the day warm

MACKINAC.

59

for two or three hours; the nights
cool and invigorating. There is not
a bad smell in the island; not a mos-
quito nor any other kind of pestilent
insect. I found all this out when I
was stationed there as medical officer
a year before the civil war. I tried
it last year on the strength of my
recollections of more than twenty-five
years ago, and as the result of my
experience, I am going there again
this year. I have no hesitation in
saying that it is the best summer
resort of which I have any knowledge
for persons whose nervous systems
are run down, or who desire to be
built up and strengthened."

PLEASURE FOR EVERY PALATE.

Mackinac offers as many ways of
killing dull time, or making dull time
gay, as any American resort, and
when I say that I am aware that there
are as many appetites, normal and
false, as there are possibilities of
satisfying them. I remember once
in one of those fugitive, chance meet-
ings that occur between men on long
railroad journeys (and to which the
ladies are and must be strangers), the
conversation turned to a discussion
of the greatest pleasure in life. A
very young man said that, if he could
choose the very best fun in the world,
it would be a winter's straw ride in
the country with his old companions
and sweethearts, terminating with a
dinner and a dance, and a moonlight
journey home.

A very red-faced old man smiled
contemptuously at this, and said, "A
dinner ! Heaven defend me from a
dinner such as you would get. It
would consist of ham and eggs and
milk and doughnuts — sudden death
in four courses." What he enjoyed
most keenly, he said, was a canvas-
back duck cooked as it can be cooked
only in Baltimore or Washington, and
enriched by a bottle of Chambertin.

" Pshaw !" said a dandyish man,
with steel-gray hair and clothing that
bore the London stamp ; " give me
my yacht and half a gale astern, and

give me all the sea room I want.
Then, as the boat careens and dips
her rail in the sea, and the spray flies
and the sail strains, I'll throw myself
on my back, pipe in mouth, upon the
deck, and never wnll man dream of
greater pleasure than mine."

" And yet," said a commercial trav-
eler, " perhaps I'll be to-night where
I shall pale your sensations into noth-
ing. If I meet the men I expect to,
we will gather around a table and
have a little game of 'draw.' Nine-
tenths of the game will be insipid,
but there will come a moment when I

will have a splendid hauL, .> partner
will fancy he has a better one. We
will pit our hands against each
other. The other players will draw

6o

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE (5f ATLANTIC RAILWAY,

out — you know the rest. I would not
exchange those moments of anxiety,
hope, doubt, wonder, desperation and
triumph for all the dancing maidens,
the Delmonico's fare and the stupid
boats in all creation."

" I see that not one of you knows
-what pleasure is," said the last man
in the group — a heavy-jawed, rather
dull-faced fellow. " Did you ever
fish — for game fish, I mean — trout,
black bass, muskallonge, pickerel — I
care not which ? Ah, there's a sensa-
tion ! You are beneath a blue sky, in
a cooling breeze, with the green drap-
ery of Nature gladdening every view.
But you are uncertain whether you
are to have any sport or not; just a
little tired and discouraged — thinking
of going back to your camp or trying
somewhere else — when, zip!!! what's
that ? Your line pulls, your rod bends,
you have got a dandy — a two-pounder,
at least. Then follows one minute,
or five minutes, of keenest, wildest,
most magnetic, thrilling pleasure.
What is it? Will you get it? Oh,
thunder! It's off; but, no, no; there
it is again. Give it a little line; reel
in steady and slow. There! see that!
a black bass — a big one — it leaped a
foot from the water! Oh, my friends,
take your dreamy waltzes, your ruddy
wine, your demoralizing cards, your
horses and your boats; but give me
an hour at a good fishing ground, and
I'll ask no more."

FISHING, SAILING, DINING, DANCING,
GAMES — AND PRETTY GIRLS I

At Mackinac every one of those
dreamers would find satisfaction, and
so would twice as many more of dif-
ferent tastes. The wondrous clear
water, clearer than ever Lake George
boasted, reveals the fish that you may
catch ; for you can see them gliding
beneath you. It offers unparalleled
boating pleasures, by oar and sail; the
epicure will never fare better than
there. There is bathing, too — a rare
treat in the northern country ; for in
Lake Superior, for instance, I have
heard that the water is so chilly that

the sailors who work upon it do not
learn to swim. There is dancing, there
are many delightful pleasure routes for
daily excursions, there is music, and,
as to the girls — the Mackinac girls are
as famous as the West is celebrated for
the production of fine women. They
come to this great resort in large num-
bers, from as far away as St. Paul, Chi-
cago and Cincinnati — in lesser num-
bers from all parts of America. The
young men who rove with fancies
free, yet anxious to be fettered, tell
me there is no such beauty-show in
any of the other resorts, but I repeat
the boast on their authority. I am
not so wise as he whom Shakspere
made to say :

" Between two girls who hath the merriest
eye ;
I have, perhaps, some shallow spirit of
judgment.

At Mackinac all the elements meet
— the fashionable, the cultivated and
the homespun beauties of the nation.
So, when I tell you of the woodland
walks, of the row-boats and the sail-
boats, of the bathing, and the tennis,
and the dancing, and the picnics, and
the excursions, and then declare the
ladies to be matchless — if you want
more, not all my travels will suffice for
me to direct you where to go. The
combination of scenic and human
loveliness recalls that " Day-dream on
the Rhine " in the collection of poems
edited by Longfellow !

"... Where the laughing hills

Thy majesty do greet,
And echoes call from rock to rock

All through thie noonday heat.
In earliest dusk the gathering stars

Above thee love to meet.

When lovers in the ferry-boat

Forget the passing tide,
And closer drawn, cling lip to lip,

What though the river's wide.
And silver clouds no secrets tell

To the towers on either side."

The highest praise, I think, that can
be given to that or any place, I heard
spoken with regard to Mackinac by a
well-known New Yorker, who went
there to spend a vacation such as he
always had enjoyed, with varied sports
and pleasures : " But I had over-
worked," he said, " and was in that
nervous condition when I fancied no

MACKINAC.

6i

place in the world would please me.
And yet I not only had the best en-
joyment of my life, but I got it from
doing nothing. I simply drank in that
marvelous tonic air, and loafed about
in that wondrous placid scenery with-
out a desire unsatisfied, only dreading
the hour when I must pack up and
leave it."

It takes a brass band to make some
resorts popular. Mackinac needs
nothing that Nature did not give it.

THE SQUAW WAV OF SHOPPING.

To a visitor from the East, the
number of Indians seen, especially in
Michigan, makes a deep impression.
They are best seen and studied at
Mackinac, where they have a little
colony of their own, and where they
perform a great deal of the work that
is not wholly servile. They are the
fishermen, boatmen, guides and gar-
deners of the region. It is very in-

teresting to see their squaws at the
village at Mackinac in the summer-
tide. You will be apt to come upon
three or four, with their blankets
around them, seated in a store. You
make your own purchases, go away
and return in an hour, and there are
those squaws just as you left them —
still sitting there. That is how they
shop ; indeed, that is how the North
American Indian, male and female,
shops wherever you find him. They
like to sit down and contemplate the
goods. If the proprietor tries to hurry
them they will leave the place. When
they get ready they buy, often by ex-
changing their goods for those of the
white people. Very many beautiful
varieties of Indian work in beads and
bark are to be had at low prices in
Mackinac, and many an Eastern and
far Western and European home is
decorated with these trophies of a
summer at that place.

ARCH ROCK — MACKINAC.

MACKINAC'S SCENIC BEAUTIES.

From many pens whose touch has
been inspired by the beauty of this
" Island of the Dancing Fairies," I
gather these descriptionsofitsqharms:
The natural scenery of the Island of
Mackinac is unsurpassed. Nature
seems to have exhausted herself in the
clustered objects of interest which
everywhere meet the eye. The lover
of Nature may wander through the
shaded glens, and climb over the rug-
ged rocks of this island for weeks, and
even months, and never grow weary;
for each day some new object of
beauty and interest will attract his at-
tention.

As you approach the island it
appears a perfect gem. A finer sub-
ject for an artist's pencil could not be
found. In some places it rises almost
perpendicularly from the very water's
edge to the height of 150 feet, while
in others the ascent is gradual. Parts
of the island are covered with a small
growth of hard- wood trees — beech,
maple, iron-wood, birch, etc. — while
other parts abound in a rich variety
of evergreens, among which spruce,
arbor-vita;, ground-pine, white-pine,
balsam and juniper predominate.

Henry R. Schoolcraft, who first
visited the island in 1820, wrote
that "Nothing can exceed the beauty
of this island. It is a mass of cal-
careous rock, rising from the bed of
Lake Huron, and reaching an eleva-
tion of more than 300 feet above
the water. The waters around are
purity itself. Some of its cliffs
shoot up perpendicularly, and tower
in pinnacles, like ruined Gothic stee-
ples. It is cavernous in some places ;
and in these caverns the ancient
Indians, like those of India, have
placed their dead. Portions of the
beach are level, and adapted to land-
ing from boats and canoes. The

harbor at its south end is a little gem;
vessels anchor in it, and find good
holding. The little, old-fashioned
French town nestles around it in a
very primitive style. The fort frowns
above it, like another Alhambra, its
white walls gleaming in the sun.

" The whole area of the island is
one labyrinth of curious little glens
and valleys. Old green fields appear,
in some spots, which have been for-
merly cultivated by the Indians. In
some of these there are circles of
gathered-up stones, as if the Druids
themselves had dwelt here. The soil,
though rough, is fertile, being the
comminuted materials of broken-
down limestones,

" The island was formerly covered
with a dense growth of rock maples,
oaks, iron-wood, and other hard-wood
species ; and there are still parts of
this ancient forest left, but all the
southern limits of it exhibit a young
growth. There are walks and winding
paths among its little hills, and prec-
ipices of the most romantic character.
And whenever the visitor gets on
eminences overlooking the lake, he
is transported with sublime views of
a most illimitable and magnificent
water prospect. If the poetic muses
are ever to have a new Parnassus in
America, they should inevitably fix on
Michilimackinac (the original name
of the place when it was a trading
post. — Ed.). Hygeia, too, should
place her temple here ; for it has one
of the purest, driest, clearest and most
healthful atmospheres."

A sail around the island in one of
the little steamers or yachts that are
plentiful, presents a continuous suc-
cession of charming views, but none
is more striking than that on entering
the harbor at its southern end. The
beautiful bay is crescent-shaped, and

64 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

its waters are so clear that a white
marble or a silver quarter can be dis-
tinctly seen at a depth of from twenty
to fifty feet. Myriads of fish are
plainly visible as they cleave their
way through the liquid crystal.

Overlooking the bay, the tall white
cliffs with their back-ground of wav-
ing forest ; the fort, with its massive
walls of whitewashed stone, clinging
picturesquely to the brow of the preci-
pice ; the straggling little town at its
feet, strongly recalling visions of
Italian fishing villages; the long ram-
bling hotels, with verandas above and
below; the neat residences, with their
grass plots and shrubbery, fountains
and flowers, mingling among build-
ings that have been historic for three
generations; and, as a frontispiece to
it all, the wide, smooth^ gently-sloping
beach of snowy sand on which the

sunlit waters ever play, all combine to
form a picture that, once seen, is never
forgottei).

" The natural scenery of Mackinac
is charming," writes Constance Feni-
more Woolson, whose admirable story
of Anne is a local as well as a national
classic. " The geologist finds myster-
ies in the masses of calcareous rock
dipping at unexpected angles; the
antiquarian feasts his eyes on the
Druidical circles of ancient stones;
the invalid sits on the cliff's edge, in
the vivid sunshine, and breathes in
the buoyant air with delight, or rides
slowly over the old military roads, with
the spicery of cedars and juniper
alternating with the fresh forest odors
of young maples and beaches. The
haunted birches abound, and on the

crags grow the weird larches, beckon-
ing with their long fingers — the most
human tree of all. Bluebells, on their
hair-like stems, swing from the rocks,
fading at a touch, and in the deep
woods are the Indian pipes, but the
ordinary wild flowers are not to be
found. Over toward the British
Landing stand the Gothic spires of the
blue-green spruces, and now and then
an Indian trail crosses the road, worn
deep by the feet of the red men when
the Fairy Island was their favorite and
sacred resort."

On the edge of a perpendicular
precipice of white limestone, 155 feet
high, just back of the town, is the fort
which, in picturesque beauty of loca-
tion, has no rival among all the fort-
resses of the United States. Its posi-
tion somewhat resembles that of Fort
Snelling, but is much more romantic.
Magnificent views of the sur-
rounding lakes; channels, isl-
ands, promontories, forests,
towns and shipping are to be
had from every point on the
lofty parapet; and the world
affords no grander sight than a
sunrise or sunset from the fort,
the great globe of crimson and
gold seeming at its rising to
burst up from the bosom of
Lake Huron and at its setting
to plunge into the midst of Lake
Michigan, casting a million prismatic
tints of glorious light on wave and
sky. It was of one of these gorgeous
sunset scenes that Longfellow wrote;

" Can it be the sun descending
O'er the level plain of water ?
Or the Red Swan floating, flying,
Wounded by the magic arrow,
Staining all the waves with crimson —
With the crimson of its life-blood ;
Filling all the air with splendor -
With the splendor of its plumage ? "

In such a spot, with the glories of
earth and heaven unrolled before the
gaze; where the atmosphere is as pure
as the gales that wandered over pri-
meval paradise; where the tempera-
ture is always cool enough to be
bracing and invigorating ; where a
mosquito never was seen, nor malaria
ever known; where the inducements

MACKINAC'S SCENIC BEAUTIES.

65

tc constant exercise of every sense
and sinew are as boundless as the
beauties of the place, and where the
healing fragrance of the pine, the
hemlock and balsam fir are borne on
every breeze, dyspepsia, languor and
low spirits take flight, and as the poet
might have said with more truth than
most poetry, " hay fevers cease from
troubling and the asthma is at rest."
The querulous invalid, before he

knows it, finds himself boating, fishing,
strolling, flirting like a Harvard fresh-
man. Well might Horace Mann,
writing of the influence of " the
wonderful isle" say, "I never breathed
such an air before. I think this must
be some that came clear out of Eden
and did not get cursed ;" suggesting
the thought that however we lament
" Paradise Lost," we here behold the
veritable "Paradise Regained."

SPECIAL FEATURES AT MACKINAC-

FORTS MACKINAC AND HOLMES.

Fort Mackinac, which stands on
a rocky eminence above the town,
was built by the English in 1780.
The buildings are a hospital, outside
the wall and east of the fort ; a
guard-house, near the south gate ;
officers' quarters on the hill near the
flag-staff ; quarters for the men in
the centre; block-houses on the walls;
magazine in the hollow, not far from
the south gate ; store-houses, offices,

LOVER S LEAP.

etc. There are persons yet living
on the island who, during the troub-
les of 1 814, took refuge in these self-
same block-houses. In the rear of
the fort is the parade ground, and

the spot where Captain Roberts plant-
ed his guns in 181 2, while his whole
force of Indians was concealed in the
adjacent thickets. Capt. Roberts dis-
embarked at British Landing, marched
across the island, and took up his
station at this point without being
discovered.

Half or three-quarters of a mile
behind Fort Mackinac, on the crown-
ing point of the island, is Fort
Holmes, built soon after the British
captured the post in 181 2. Each
citizen was compelled to give three
days' work toward its construction.
The excavation encircling the earth-
works was originally broader and
deeper than now. The place of the
gate is seen on the east side, one of
the posts yet remaining to mark its
position. In the centre of the fort
was erected a huge block-house, be-
neath which was the magazine. Near
the gate was the entrance to several
underground cellars, which have now
caved in. The fort was defended
by what we would now call " pop-
guns," the largest of which was only
an eighteen-pounder. History shows
this fort to have been considered a
very remarkable and formidable de-
fense in its time. Its first name was
Fort George, but when it became an
American possession it was re-named
in honor of Major Holmes, a hero
who fell at Early's Farm.

Robinson's folly.

Robinson's Folly is just that and
nothing more. As is so often the
case where landmarks that acquire
names existent long before they are
written, the origin of the name is
hopelessly hazy. One legend has it
that "Captain Robinson, a great ad-
mirer of the ladies, while strolling in

SPECIAL FEATURES AT MACKINAC.

67

the woods suddenly beheld a few
rods before him a beautiful girl, who
retreated as fast as he approached,
until finally she stood almost on the
edge of the cliff, and in his eagerness
to capture, as well as to save her
from that death which would have
been preferable to his intentions, the
captain sprang forward to seize her,
but just as he clutched her arm, she
threw herself forward into the chasm,
dragging her tormentor and would-be
saviour with her. His body alone
was found. He was long mourned
by his men and brother officers, until
by and by it began to be whispered
that the captain had indulged too
freely in the fine old French brandy
that the fur traders brought up from
Montreal, and the lady was a mere
ignis fatuus of his excited imagina-
tion, but the mantle of sentiment has
been thrown over the tragedy, and
a romantic explanation given in its
place."

Another legend is that after the
removal of the fort to the island in
1780, Captain Robinson, then in
command, had a summer house built
upon the cliff, which soon became a
frequent resort for himself and broth-
er officers who, with pipes, cigars and
wine, whiled many an hour pleasantly
away. After a few years, by the ac-
tion of the elements, a portion of the
cliff, together with the house, fell to
the base of the rock, which disastrous
event gave rise to the name. The
brow of this cliff is 127 feet high.

FAIRY ARCH.

Fairy Arch, a little to the north
of this, stands out boldly near the
base of an immense rock, and is well
worth a visit. Words cannot fully
describe the novelty and beauty of
this eccentricity of Nature or the
sensations it produces. It is a mag-
nificent natural arch, spanning a
chasm of eighty or ninety feet in
height, and forty or fifty in width.
Its summit is 149 feet above the
level of the lake. Its abutments are
composed of calcareous rock, and

the opening underneath the arch has
been produced by the falling down
of the great masses of rock now to
be seen upon the beach below. A
path to the right leads to th.e brink
of the arch, whence the visitor, if
sufficiently reckless, may pass to its
summit, which is about three feet in
width. Here we see twigs of cedar
growing out of what appears to be
solid rock, while in the rear and on
either hand the lofty eminence is
clothed with trees and shrubbery —
maple, birch, poplar, cedar and bal-
sam. Before us are the majestic
waters of Lake Huron, dotted in the
distance with islands. We may now
descend through the great chasm,
" arched by the hand of God," and
at the base of the projecting angle
of the main rock find a second arch
less magnificent, but no less curious
and wonderful. From the beach be-
low the view is very grand and im-
posing.

It is held that the portion support-
ing the arch on the north side, and
the curve of the arch itself, are com-
paratively fragile, and cannot for a
long period resist the action of rains
and frosts, which, in this latitude, and
on a rock thus constituted, produce
great ravages every season. The
arch, which on one side now connects
this abutment with the main cliff,
will soon be destroyed, as well as the
abutment itself, and the whole be
precipitated into the lake.

SUGAR LOAF ROCK.

The plateau upon which Sugar
Loaf Rock stands is 150 fset high,
while the summit of the rock is 284
feet above the lake. Its composition
is the same as that of Arch Rock.
Its shape is conical, and from its crev-
ices grow a few vines and cedars.
It is cavernous, and in the north side
is an opening sufficient to admit sev-
eral persons. The view from the top
is exquisite. Half a mile to the rear
of the fort, and only a short distance
to the right of the road leading to
Early's Farm, is

68

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

SKULL ROCK,

noted as the place in which Alexan-
der Henry was secreted by the Chip-
pewa chief, Wawatan, after the mas-
sacre of the British garrison at Old
Mackinaw. Near the house now oc-
cupied by Mr. Early is that relic of
1812, the old Dousman house, across
the road from which is the battle-
ground. A short distance down the
road leading through this farm is

BRITISH LANDING,

where Captain Roberts disembarked
a force of English, French and In-
dians to take the island in 181 2. The
Americans, under Col. Croghan, also
landed at this same place in August,
1814, under cover of the guns of the
squadron, and marched to the edge
of the clearing, now Early's Farm.
But the enemy were in waiting, and
hardly had he reached the scene when
a fire was opened upon him, and the
woods on every side literally swarmed
with savages. He was obliged to re-
treat, with the loss of Major Holmes
and several men. To the right of
British Landing is the road through
the woods to

scott's cave,

which is under one of the huge rocks
peculiar to Mackinac. Its entrance
is very low, but in the interior a giant
might stand erect. Unless provided
with a candle or lantern, the visitor
will find himself in almost total dark-
ness.

THE devil's kitchen.

Leaving the town at its western ex-
tremity, and following the foot-path
around the brow of the high bluffs
which bound the southwestern side
of the island, for about a mile, then,
descending a zig-zag stair, you come
to the Devil's Kitchen, a cavernous
rock, curious in its formation as well
as its name. Near it is a spring of
clear, cold water. The road along the
beach should be avoided as it is
utterly impracticable. A few yards
further on is the famous

LOVER S LEAP.

The Lover's Leap, about a mile
west of the village, is a high, perpen-
dicular Itluff, rising sheer from the
lake nearly 200 feet. The legend that
gives the giant cliff its name is
of a young Ojibway girl and her
warrior love. You who have not
seen the noble red man and his squaw
will perhaps find a great deal more
poetry and charm in the legend than
those of us who have made the ac-
quaintance of the various tribes from
Hudson Bay to the Apache country.
The Ojibway girl's name was Me-che-
ne-mock-e-nung-o-qua, and you will
please remember that it was with no
hope of ever changing it that she fell
in love with Ge-niw-e-gwon, the val-
iant brave, for marriage does not offer
that boon to the Indian girl. At all
events, she often wandered to this
cliff and gazed from its dizzy heights,
and witnessed the receding canoes of
the large war parties of the combined
bands of the Ojibways and Ottawas
speeding south, seeking fame and
scalps.

And it is recorded that she sang
the Ojibway love-song, running like
this:

" A loon, I thought, was looming,
A loon, I thought, was looming,
Why ! it is he, my lover !
Why ! it is he, my lover !
His paddle in the waters gleaming,
His paddle in the waters gleaming."

Those Indian songs are pretty only
when you can't hear them, by the
way, and it happened that when she
sang the brave she loved was far
enough away to feel no disturbance
from the music. The tale goes on to
say that she could distinguish his
cries amid the shouts of the returning
warriors ; but one day she missed his
voice, for an enemy's arrow had
pierced his heart, and after his body
had been placed against a tree, facing
his enemies, the rest of the tribe left
him and came home. The heart of
the girl with the long name hushed
its beatings, and all its warm emotions
were chilled and dead. The spirit of
her beloved warrior she witnessed

SPECIAL FEATURES AT MACKINAC.

69

continually beckoning her to follow
him to the happy hunting grounds.
He appeared to her in human shape,
but was invisible to others of his tribe.
One morning her body was found
mangled at the foot of the bluff.
The soul had thrown aside its cover-
ing of earth and gone to join the
spirit of her beloved brave ; and there
to-day, forgetful of the dear, dirty
girl with the broadgauge name, the
young people of to-day land in boats
and picnic while modern braves in
blazers sing, as Dibdin did of old :

" 'Twas post meridian half past four.
By signal I from Nancy parted."

The fascinating yet unwholesome
shadow of legendary sadness melts in
the glamour of nineteenth century dolce
far niente.

CHIMNEY ROCK

is a very remarkable freak of Nature.
A foot-path which leads from the
beach near the base of Lover's Leap
to the plateau above brings you to
the Davenport farm, now owned by
the Mackinac Island Summer Re-
sort Association, where a miniature
village of elegant summer cottages
has been built, to which additions
are made each season. A central
building is used as a dining hall, from
which meals are furnished at very
near cost. Eighty acres have been
neatly laid out and platted, and lots
for the erection of cottages can be pur-
chased on very advantageous terms.
Improvements alreadyaggregate many
thousands of dollars.

A CRADLE OF HISTORY.

The history that we venerate as
patriots is juvenile compared with
the chronicles and legends that dis-
tinguish Mackinac and its neighbor-
hood. When all Southern Michigan
yet lacked its Marquette or its Stanley,
Mackinac was a missionary seat, a
trader's post and a garrisoned strong-
hold. From Mackinac colonization
spread throughout the surrounding
territory, Wisconsin and even Minne-
sota being settled by men who started
from this citadel of progress. Cadil-
lac, founder of Detroit (in 1701), had
long commanded at Mackinac. Men
alive to-day recall when Chicago drew
her supplies from this place. This
was by no chance or trick of destiny.
Mackinac is a historical centre be-
cause it is a geographical centre. Na-
ture alone gave it its advantages, and
made it what it has been in history.

The flags of three great nations have
successively floated over the post at
Michilimackinac, which has been the
theatre of many a bloody tragedy. Its
possession has been disputed by pow-
erful nations, and its internal peace
has continually been made the sport
of Indian treachery and Caucasian du-
plicity. One day chanting Te Deums
beneath the ample folds of the fieiir-
de-lis, next yielding to the power of
the British Lion, now it rests peace-
fully as the stars and stripes float over
its verdant battlements. Its historical
associations render it classic ground,
and the many wild traditions peopling
each rock and glen with spectral habi-
tants combine to throw around Mack-
inac an interest and sentimental at-
tractiveness such as few, if any, other
places on the Western Continent
possess.

As far back as history begins to
blend with traditions that reach into

the dimmest past, Mackinac Island
has been a place of great interest. A
legend relates that a large number of
Indians were once assembled at Point
St. Ignace, now the eastern terminus
of the DuLUTH, South Shore and
Atlantic Railway, and while in-
tently gazing at the rising sun, during
the great Manitou, or February Moon,
they beheld the island suddenly rise
up from the water, assuming its pres-
ent form. From the point of observ-
ation it bore the fancied resemblance
to the back of a huge turtle ; hence
they called it by the name of Mos-
che-ne-mac-e-nung, which means a
great turtle. This name, when put
into a French dress, became Michili-
mackinac, to be in turn again abbre-
viated by the always practical English
into Mackinac and Mackinaw.

According to Indian tradition, the
island is the birthplace of Menabosho,
the god of waters — the Hiawatha of
the Algonquin Indians. Indian my-
thology makes it the home of the Giant
Fairies, and the red men, in passing its
shores, made offerings of tobacco and
other articles to these spirits. These
fairies, we are told, had a subterranean
abode under the island, the entrance
to which was near the base of the hill,
just below the present southern gate
of the fort. An old Indian, who once
revisited the limits of the present
garrison, was believed by his kinsmen
to have had exceptional opportunity
to prove the truth of this tradition.
These were the circumstances : During
the night, while he was wrapped in
slumber, one of the spirits laid his
shadowy hand upon him and beck-
oned him to follow. In obedience to
the mysterious request, the Indian's
soul parted from his body and went
with the fairy. Together they entered

A CRADLE OF HISTORY,

71

the mystic dwelling place of the
spirits, and the Indian was introduced
to the great spirits assembled in
solemn conclave. He was lost in
wonder and admiration at what he
saw around him, and he described
the place where they were assembled
as a very large and beautiful wigwam.
Beyond that, he simply asserted that,
after a time, the master spirit of the
assembly directed one of the lesser
spirits to conduct him back to his
body. The story is chiefly interesting
to me as showing that it was as easy
to concoct a spiritualistic story then
as it is to-day — and just as easy to
make some folks believe it afterwards!

The "Ancient Miners" of Upper
Michigan, presumably connected with
the " Mound-builders " of the Missis-
sippi Valley, and with the Toltecs and
Aztecs of Old Mexico, may have had
an agricultural outpost at St. Ignace
or Mackinac Island. The vestiges of
a mound have been traced in the
neighborhood of Point La Barbe.
No tradition, however, referring to
that people, is found among our
Indians.

In 167 1, Father Marquette, pioneer
and priest, wrote that " Michilimack-
inac is the key, and as it were, the
gate for all the tribes from the south,
as the Sault is for those of the north,
there being in this section of country
only those two passages by water ; for
a great number of nations have to go
by one or other of these channels, in
order to reach the French settlements.
This presents a peculiarly favorable
opportunity both for instructing those
who pass here, and also for obtaining
easy access and conveyance to their
places of abode. "

Father Marquette was doubtless the
first white man to visit it, or at least,
to dwell upon it. He established a
school on the island in 167 1, for the
education of the Indian youths, and
so much was he attached to " the
Straits" that, when he died in 1675,
it was at his request his Indian con-
verts brought his body back to the
little mission established by him at
St. Ignace.

The first vessel ever seen on these
waters was the " Griffin," built by the
explorer, La Salle, on Lake Erie, in
1678.

In 1695, Cadillac, who still later
founded Detroit, established a small
fort here. Then came contests and
skirmishes, not unmingled with massa-
cres, until finally Mackinac, with all
the other French strongholds on the
lakes, was surrendered to the English
in September, 1761. In 1763 began
the conspiracy of Pontiac — a coup de
guerre wonderful for the sagacity with
which it was planned and the vigor
with which it was executed. Pontiac
was the most remarkable Indian of all
the lake tribes. He was a firm friend
of the French, and to aid their cause,
arranged a simultaneous attack upon
all the English forts in the lake coun-
try and in a vast region south of it.
Eleven posts were assaulted and eight
were captured.

Fort Michilimackinac was among
the latter. Three officers and thirty-
five men defended it. A band of
Chippewas, while playing a game of
ball just outside of the fort, knocked
the ball, as if by accident, so that it
fell inside the stockade ; the players
rushed after it, and seizing their
weapons from squaws, who had them
concealed under their blankets, and
had previously entered the fort as a
part of the plot, they raised the war-
whoop and fell upon the garrison. A
lieutenant and fifteen men were killed
and a captain and the rest of the gar-
rison were taken prisoners, to be
ransomed afterwards.

A year afterwards, a treaty of peace
having been made with the Indians,
troops were again sent to raise the
English flag over the fort. By a treaty
of peace between Great Britain and
the United States September 3, 1783,
the island fell within the boundary of
the United States, but under various
pretences the English refused to with-
draw their troops. By a second treaty
concluded November 19, 1794, it was
stipulated that the British should with-
draw on or before June i, 1797. Two
companies of U. S. troops arrived in

72 DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

October, 1796, and took possession, a
previous treaty with the Indians hav-
ing secured from them the post. Dur-
ing the war of 181 2 the island was
again surrendered to the British. After
the victory of Commodore Perry on
Lake Erie in 1813, an effort was made
to recapture it, but the troops sent
were insufficient in numbers, and not
until 1814 was the American flag
again hoisted over the Gibraltar of
the lakes.

In savage minds Mackinac's superb
position was appreciated, then the mis-
sionaries made it their chief pulpit,
next civilized warfare made it acoveted
stronghold, later it became a commer-
cial centre. I now refer to its connec-
tion with the fur trade carried on by
John Jacob Astor, Esq., of New York.
Mr. Astor organized the American Fur
Company, with a capital of two mill-
ion dollars. It had no chartered right
to a monopoly of the Indian trade, yet
by its wealth and influence it long
controlled that trade. The outposts
of thecompanywerescattered through-
out the whole west and northwest.
This island was the great central mart
to which the goods were brought from
New York by way of the lakes, and
from Quebec and Montreal by way of
the Ottawa, Lake Nipissing and French
River. From this point they were dis-
tributed to all the outposts ; while
from all the Indian countries the furs
were annually brought down to the
island by the company's agents,whence
they were sent to New York, Quebec
or to Europe. This company was
organized in 1809 and continued to
do business until 1848.

THE WATER ROUTE TO MACKINAC.

Beauteous Isle ! I sing of thee,

Mackinac, my Mackinac;
Thy lake-bound shores I love to see,
Mackinac, my Mackinac.
From Arch Rock's height and shelving steep
To western cliflfs and Lover's Leap,
Where memories of the lost one sleep,
Mackinac, my Mackinac.
Thy shore once trod by British foe,

Mackinac, my Mackinac ;
That day saw g^allant Holmes laid low,
Mackinac, my Mackinac.
Now Freedom's flag above thee waves.
And guards the rest of fallen braves—
Their requiem sung by Huron's waves —
Mackinac, my Mackinac.

— Front lines by a Mackinac poet.

Perhaps the pleasanter route to
Mackinac — certainly so to those who
love to be on the water — is by boat
from Munising Bay over a third of the
great lake, past the Pictured Rocks
and down the St. Mary's River.
Munising is readily reached from any
point on the famous "Short Line" —
the DuLUTH, South Shore and
Atlantic Railway. You leave Old
Munising at about noon and are
soon in the enchanted region of the
Pictured Rocks. The sand-hills that
succeed the beautiful rocks are of
variegated hues, also. They are tree-
less and extend far back, terrace upon
terrace. It is a beautiful Sahara,
without its heat, that you seem to be
looking upon. But the view is quickly
lost, and you come upon a little archi-
pelago of verdant islands laving their
bases in the pellucid and chromatic
waters of the giant lake. Every mile
and moment is passed amid cool,
softly winging breezes that catch and
carry the refreshing temperature of
the great mass of water.

Forward, onward, the proud steam-
er cleaves her way through the crys-
tal sea until at Grand Merais there is
a pause and a glimpse at the costly
work the federal government is pros-
ecuting for the creation of a harbor
of refuge. There are other remind-
ers of the cruel fury of this veritable
inland ocean during the stormy win-
ter season. At periodic intervals
stations of the life-saving service are
seen, precisely as on the New England
or New Jersey coast. Like the ocean
coast stations, they are thoroughly
equipped and bravely manned.

But the keener pleasure of the
journey is beyond Sault Ste. Marie —
the journey down the St. Mary's River.
The St. Mary's is a noble and broad
river, but the channel is narrow,
crooked and beset with dangers to all
but the most skillful pilots. Rocks
that are visible and rocks that are
hidden are both so numerous that no
vessels make the run after dark.
After the exciting part of the voyage
is ended the river broadens into al-

A CRADLE OF HISTORY.

73

most lake-like width, and innumerable
beautiful islands deck its surface.
The river ends in Potoganissing Bay
and that, in turn, leads into the body
of which it is a part — Lake Huron.
The course of the boat has been
southeasterly up to this point, but in
Lake Huron it is abruptly changed to
an almost westerly course, and pres-
ently beauteous Mackinac towers in
view. In the following verses the
expectant tourist may discover how
this journey affected a poet who ex-
perienced it :

ST. MARY'S RIVER.
By John M. Talman.

The workmanship of Nature's band

No rarer gem than this has shown ;
The glamor sc/t of fairyland

Upon this luring realm is thrown.
On boulder vast and current swift

The first gleams of the morning quiver,
While in a dreamy calm I driit

Adown Si. Mary's shining river.

In power, in stateliness and pride.

Majestic ships the waters brave,
As on and ever on ihey glide

To crown with sail the Huron's wave.
The matin glow, the noontide blaze,

The fiercely swirling eddies shiver;
The peace ol'^old Arcadian days

Surrounds St. Mary's beauteous river.

The devious lines of tree-clad shore

To shapes of wondrous grace are bent,
And flashing waters onward pour,

With thickly verdured isles besprent.
Sweet messages of amity

Shore, isle and stream to lake deliver;
A houseless Venice seems to be

Upon St, Mary's mighty river.

And so this work is ended. It is
only necessary to say, in advance of
a last farewell, that the author has
been obliged to discuss and explain

some especial subjects in knowledge
of which he was so much at a loss
that he must needs borrow from the
writings or the verbal assistance of
others. In all such cases he has
frankly given what credit was due —
quite selfishly, if you please, for no
wise man, however scanty his morals,
would care to make himself respons-
ible for a single statement for the
truth of Avhich he could not vouch.
But to Mr. John M. Talman, of the
St. Paul Pioneer- Press, added and
especial credit and thanks are due.
He is familiar with the region here
described, has seen it with his own
uncommonly observant eyes, and has
written bits and paragraphs here and
there in this work with a pen that is
quite as felicitous in descriptive work
as every reader of this book has dis-
covered it to be in the word-melodies
of poesy.

Shall that older poet, Prior, see me
out of your presence with this ancient
impudence of his :

"As long as we have eyes or hands or breath
We'll look or write or talk you all to death ? "

No ; rather let me write what Rob-
ert Burns would have written had he
been born somewhere along ** The
Short Line " instead of in Scotland :

Farewell to the mountains high covered with snow;
Farewell to the straths and green valleys below ;
Farewell to the forests and wild-hanging woods ;
Farewell to the torrents and land-pouring floods.
My heart's in the Bowstring, my neart is not here.
My heart's in the Bowstring, a-chasing the deer.
Chasing the wild deer and following the roe ;
My heart's in the Bowstring wherever I go.

■f*^'f-

A SKETCH OF THE GEOLOGY

OF THE

MARQUETTE AND KEWEENAWAN DISTRICTS.

Dr. m. e. wadsworth,

Director of the Michigan Mining School and State Geologist of Michigan.
2d Edition.

GEOLOGICAL.

AZOIC SYSTEM.

rrlHE region about the south shore
^ I of Lake Superior is to geologists
-*■ one of the most interesting dis-
tricts of the United States, embracing
as it does, in a limited area, old crys-
talline rocks, together with forms that
are almost in their original condition
of a beach sand and mud. In this
region was first established the base of
the geological column, the Azoic (with-
out life) System of Foster and Whit-
ney, or the Archaean (the beginning) of
Dana, Overlying this system are found
the sandstones and limestones of the
Palaeozoic (ancient life), with their
interbedded lava flows.

These systems possess a strong eco-
nomic interest, owing to the stores of
iron in the Azoic and of copper in the
Palaeozoic of this district, which forms
one of the most important mining
regions in America.

The geology of this section is so dif-
ficult and complicated that, in its gen-
eral discussion, perhaps no proposition
can be stated concerning any portion
of it, to which exceptions cannot be
taken. Indeed, out of the general
discussion of different points comes in
time the truth, and various geologists,
even now, are working over this region
in the endeavor to arrive at some con-
sensus, or at least to determine, upon
what points they can agree, and
upon what points difference of opinion
will have to exist between them at pres-
ent until further evidence can be obtain-
ed. The writer will endeavor to give in
a brief form that which appears to him
at present to be the most correct state-
ment of the geological structure of the
region, admitting that from time to
time, as more complete evidence shall
be obtained, he expects to change his
views in the future as has been done

in the past, if that evidence shall cause
him to believe that he has been mis-
taken.

The Azoic or Archaean System south
of Lake Superior consists of rocks that
have been formed in three ways : ist,
by mechanical means; zd, by erup-
tive, igneous, or volcanic agencies ;
3d, by chemical (including electro-
chemical) action.

FRAGMENTAL OR DETRITAL ROCKS.

The mechanical agencies of the
Azoic time acted upon some prior-
formed rocks, in like manner as we see
rain, winds, waves, frosts, etc., now
breaking down the rocks of the present
day, causing them to be deposited as soil,
mud, sand and shingle, forming det-
rital or sedimentary deposits. Such
detritus one can see upon the shores
of any lake or sea, being in many local-
ities variable in its composition, and
oftentimes abruptly changing from fine
mud to sand or even to coarse shingle.
At other localities upon the same lake
shore one may observe a nearly uni-
form sand, mud, or shingle stretching
away as far as the eye can reach along
that shore. Like uniformity and like
abrupt changes are seen by the geolo-
gist to occur in the rocks formed from
the ancient muds, sands and shingle
of the early seas and lakes. These
deposits may have remained on the
surface of the ancient beach, or may
have been deeply buried under suc-
ceeding deposits ; but whatever may
have been their position relative to the
earth's surface, they have been greatly
changed or altered from their original
condition, although the evidences of
that original condition remain plainly
visible to him who has learned to read
the worn, torn, and worm-eaten book
of Nature. In truth it may be said
that no act can take place without

78

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &' ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

leaving its effects behind, and these can
be interpreted with greater or less clear-
ness, until their record has been entirely
obliterated.

To return. We find that these old
muds, sands and shingle have been
acted upon, and metamorphosed or
altered, by heat from the earth's molten
interior, or from contact with igneous
or volcanic rocks, with their accom-
panying hot waters. Or, again, these
deposits have been affected by hot or
cold waters percolating through them,
bearing materials which chemically act
upon them ; or, again, they may have
been subjected to greater or less squeez-
ing and pressure during the formation
of the numerous wrinkles that old
Mother Earth now wears upon her
rugged face, deeply furrowed with her
tears.

Of all the agents of consolidation
and change in rocks, the chemically
active waters are, to my mind, the most
potent ; and it appears to me probable
that dry heat and pressure alone would
be unable to produce any general and
widespread rock alteration, if it were
not for the intervention of the perco-
lating waters found in all rocks, so far
as man has been able to penetrate the
earth. Such metamorphosed or altered
detritus forms the oldest known rocks
of the Lake Superior district, and we
know of the original rocks only by the
remains of that debris now found in
them. From the character of that
debris it appears that the original rocks
were of igneous or volcanic origin;
that is, they made up the early formed
crust of the earth or else were produced
by the earth's primitive volcanic activity.

When the muds, sands or shingle
have been consolidated they are found
to form rocks that differ, not only in
the fineness of the material in them,
and in their chemical and mineral com-
position, but they vary also according
as they have been subjected to different
agencies and conditions.

Thus it is that the muds have formed
the rocks known as the argillites, shales,
most schists, and some gneisses ; the
sands have formed sandstones, quartz-

ites, some schists, and most gneisses;
while the shingle generally finds its
expression in the conglomerates.

The term argillite is used to indicate
those consolidated muds that were
largely composed of clay or argillaceous
material; but the argillites are com-
monly known as slates — a term prop-
erly applied to an argillite only when
it has been subjected to pressure and
chemical action to such an extent that
it has the property of splitting indefi-
nitely into thin plates, that have no
relation to the original structural or
sedimentary planes of the rock. This
property of being cleaved or split is
known as cleavage, and it is by no
means confined to that variety of argil-
lite known as slate. When argillites
contain considerable carbon, either
unchanged or in the graphitic form,
they are known as carbonaceous or
graphitic argillites. In the Azoic dis-
trict of Northern Michigan argillite is
abundant, the common forms being
found along the lake shore and inland
south of Marquette, in the vicinity of
the Hotel Marquette. It also occurs
at Ishpeming and Negaunee, in the
vicinity of the mines, forming, with the
chlorite schist, their principal country
rock. Argillite is also found extending
from the vicinity of L'Anse Bay to
Huron Bay and the Huron Mountains,
forming in some portion of its extent
an excellent slate, which is worked in
the vicinity of Arvon. The L'Anse
argillite passes not only into the slate
variety, but also into the carbonaceous
or graphitic variety. It is this variety
of argillite, forming the country rock
of Sec. ZZ, T. 50 N., R. ^3 W., that
has been quarried or mined under the
name of "Baraga graphite," the car-
bonaceous material forming a constit-
uent portion of the country rock, and
not a vein, as has been reported. A
simillar argillite is also found on the
southern side of Teal Lake.

When the quartz sands that form a
sandstone have been greatly altered or
indurated, so that the rock is com-
posed of a very hard, compact mass
of quartz grains, it forms a variety

GEOLOGICAL.

79

of sandstone known as quartzite, a
very common rock in the vicinity of
Marquette and Negaunee, and much
quarried for ganister. Some of the
well-known localities are near the Mar-
quette State Prison, Mt. Mesnard, and
northeast and northwest of Teal Lake,
in its immediate vicinity. It is also
abundant about the Jackson, Cleve-
land, New York, Republic, and Cham-
pion iron mines.

The terms schist and gneiss are
used to designate all those altered or
metamorphosed detrital deposits, whose
minerals are arranged in more or less
parallel bands, along which the min-
erals tend to lie flatwise or lengthwise,
causing the rock to split into more or
less regular plates parallel to these
bands. These bands (or foliation of
the rock) may or may not be coinci-
dent with the original planes or lines
along which the detritus was deposited
(planes of sedimentation), and in the
rhajority of cases in the Marquette
region they do not coincide. A strik-
ing example of this can be seen in the
schist north of Teal Lake, where the
planes of deposition run approximately
northeast and southwest, while the
foliation runs east and west.

The varieties of schist are named
according to some one or more of the
prominent minerals in them, as horn-
blende schist, mica schist, quartz schist,
chlorite schist, actinolite schist, etc.,
for the schists that contain the
minerals hornblende, mica, quartz,
chlorite, actinolite, etc.

The altered muds, sands or shin-
gles may be found continuous over
large areas, or they may be found, like
their modern representatives, to pass
gradually or abruptly into one another.
Thus it is that quartzite is found to
pass into quartz, mica and .chlorite
schists ; the chlorite schist into argillite,
conglomerate and hornblende schists,
etc. Hornblende schists are well de-
veloped about Marquette, forming
much of the rock underlying the north-
ern portion of the city, especially about
Light House Point and the region ad-
jacent. Chlorite schist occurs com-

monly with argillite in the vicinity of
Marquette and about the iron mines of
Negaunee, Ishpeming, Champion and
Michigamme, forming even more of
the country rock than the argillite
does, which is sometimes wanting.

Grunerite schist and mica schist
occur in the vicinity of Republic, Hum-
boldt and Champion, while ottrelite
schist is found in the vicinity of the
two last named mines. Conglomerates
are found in the vicinity of most of
the iron mines, also by the Republic
branch railroad near Humboldt, as well
as in the vicinity of Deer and Silver
Lakes.

ERUPTIVE, VOLCANIC OR IGNEOUS
ROCKS.

To obtain a fair idea of rocks of this
character it is necessary to do as we
have done with the detrital or frag-
mental rocks; that is, to observe care-
fully the recent forms and trace out
their structure and various modifica-
tions and alterations. If this is done,
we see that the eruptive rocks are
changed or metamorphosed as much as,
and oftentimes more than, the sedi-
mentary formations.

It may be illustrated by allowing
some. of the molten iron from our fur-
naces to run at waste over the ground
and into the crevices, so as to be left
exposed to the air, frost, wind and
snow. It would first solidify, then
crack or form joints, as all rocks do,
and, owing to the action of the air and
rain, it would decompose and alter,
until finally it would form an earthy
iron ore totally unlike the original iron.
Why is this ? The answer is that the
iron, when it passes from its furnace, is
exposed in the outside atmosphere to
conditions entirely unlike those in the
furnace, and it must change its state
to conform with those changed con-
ditions. So, too, the eruptive rocks,
coming in a liquid state from the inte-
rior of the earth's furnace, cannot en-
dure unchanged the conditions which
exist at or near the earth's surface.
They are in an unstable condition, and
must be made over into a more stable

8o DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

mineral composition. The agencies
that produce that change appear in
general to be the same as those which
alter the sedimentary formations, that
is, percolating waters chemically active,
pressure, and heat or cold. The first
stage is the change from a liquid or
pasty mass into a solid one ; later there
comes a more or less variable alteration
that extends throughout the entire mass,
an<l causes variation in the mineral
composition and structure — so much
so that at times no traces of its original
condition remain, unless they be its form
or its relative position to other rocks.

It is these changes that cause rocks
that were originally peridotites or oli-
vine rocks to be now called serpentines,
actinolite schists, talc schists, dolomites
and verde antiques ; or cause formerly
molten basalts to be now called mela-
phyrs, diabases, gabbros, diorites, eclo-
gites, amphibolites, hornblende schists,
chlorite schists, mica schists, amygda-
loids, traps, greenstones, variolites,
granites, etc. It may here be said that
schists very commonly result from the
alteration of eruptive rocks, and are
produced, as well, by the change of
sedimentary ones. It is alteration that
causes rocks that were formerly andes-
ites now to form rocks that are called
phonolites, propylite, hornblende por-
phyry, porphyrites, diabase, melaphyr,
diorite, granite, schist, etc. In the same
way what were once trachytes now form
felsites, phonolites, porphyries, gran-
ites, gneisses, etc. ; while the rhyolites,
in their alteration, form rocks called
felsites, petrosilex, gneisses, granites,
quartz porphyries, etc. It will be in-
ferred from the above that the altera-
tion of eruptive rocks produces, from
forms that were originally distinct,
forms that are now known by the same
name ; while, on the other hand, the
varieties due to the various changes of a
single rock species are very numerous.

The structure of eruptive rocks differs
very much according to their compo-
sition, and according to the conditions
under which they have cooled, whether
slowly or rapidly, as well as according
to the conditions to which they have

since been subjected. That is, a mass
slowly cooling will be found to con-
tain much larger mineral forms, known
as crystals, than a mass suddenly
chilled.

The eruptive rocks, in their relations
to their associated country rocks, will
also vary according to the conditions
in which they have reached their present
position relative to the latter.

If the liquid material (lava) forces
its way through a rock, filling the cracks
that then existed in it, like putty filling
a crack in glass, the solidified lava is
known as a dike. It is to be observed,
however, that when rocks are but little
consolidated, the eruptive or liquid
material tends to force itself along the
planes of deposition of the sediments,
or parallel with the foliation, or else to
break- irregularly through whatever
portion of the rocks offers the least
resistance. But when the rocks have
become solid then the flow more com-
monly takes place along cracks or
fissures in the rocks which extend across
the country, like the cracks made in
a thin sheet of ice. Usually these
dikes may be distinguished by their
being closely welded on each side to
the country rock, which is often in-
durated or hardened at the point of
contact ; by their being compact and
fine grained at the junction with the
country rock, thus showing a rapid
cooling, due to their coming in con-
tact with the cold sides of the fissure ;
also by their being more coarsely
crystalline or coarse grained toward
the centre than at the margin, because
of the greater length of tirrle the interior
mass would be in cooling ; oftentimes,
by the dikes holding, on both sides, the
fragments of the country rock caught
up in the passage of the lava. The
difference between the sides and the
interior of dikes is usually less marked
in those rocks which contain over sixty-
five or seventy per cent, of silica, than
it is in rocks containing a less amount.
Oftentimes the lava welling up through
a fissure will fail to reach the surface,
and usually hardens in a wedge or knob-
like form ; but at other times it flows

GEOLOGICAL.

8i

out over the surface of the earth, in
like manner as water passing through a
fissure will flow over the surface of ice.
When lava flows out from long fissures
and floods the country, such flows are
commonly known as fissure or massive
eruptions, especially if the flows were
attended with little or no explosive
action. If the lava passed through a
hole or channel like a "blow hole" in
ice, and especially if attended with ex-
plosive action, it is commonly called
volcanic. The massive fissure or quiet
eruptions were more common in the
earlier days of this earth, the explosive
or volcanic eruptions have been more
common in later geological time, or
recent times. Since all these are mani-
festations of the same general cause, we
shall use the term volcanic to include
all eruptive phenomena.

Lava flows may generally be dis-
tinguished from dikes or intrusive
masses of lava by the underside of the
flow being welded to the country rock,
by its having baked or indurated the
underlying rock, and by its holding
fragments of it ; also by its conform-
ity to the original surface of that un-
derlying country rock. The flow is
usually fine grained or compact at its
base owing to rapid cooling, but a
short distance from its base it becomes
of a coarser texture, and usually shows
the coarsest structure below the centre
of the flow, at a point which was the
longest in cooling. The upper surface
of the flow is commonly wrinkled,
cellular and slaggy, if it has not been
worn off". The overlying country rock
is laid down upon this surface ; it con-
forms to the inequalities of the un-
derlying lava, and generally contains
fragments derived from it. The over-
lying sedimentary rock is not welded to
the underlying lava, nor does one
affect the other in any way, unless it be
by chemical action.

When any explosive action has taken
place, ashes and larger fragments of
the disrupted lava are strewn about,
which may or may not be subsequently
worked over by wind and water. Lava,
as soon as it is exposed to the waves,

is worn away, like any other rock, and
we may find its worn detritus deposited
by its side, ere the main mass has
been cooled.

THE OLDEST SEDIMENTARY AND
ERUPTIVE ROCKS.

The location in which these rocks
have been best made out by the State
Geological Survej', is in the Cascade
Range in the vicinity of the Volunteer
mine. Here one finds an old horn-
blendic schist that has been invaded
by eruptive granite and other volcanic
rocks. This formation is especially
marked to the southeast of the mine,
and rises in abrupt but low hills near the
stream. It is not impossible that the
hornblendic schist may be a changed
eruptive or volcanic rock instead of
being a sedimentary one, although the
evidence thus far obtained points to
the latter origin.

Towards the mine one finds a sedi-
mentary rock lying on the oldest schist
and granite, and composed of their
debris. This is especially marked in
the vicinity of the stream. Some of
the boulders that make up this detrital
deposit are several feet in diameter,
while the rock passes from a coarse
conglomerate into a fine schist appa-
rently composed of granitic mud. The
formations that overlie this will be
spoken of elsewhere.

JASPILITES AND THEIR ASSOCIATED
IRON ORES.

Associated with early detrital rocks
are the immense bodies of iron ore
and jaspilite in the Marquette district.
The relations of the ore and jaspilite
to each other and to their associated
schists and quartzites are matters of
very great economic and scientific im-
portance, to which, therefore, much
attention has been paid. Most ot
the opinions advanced have been
based on preconceived notions, rather
than upon a thorough study of the
rocks in place and conclusions drawn
from the evidence they present. This
method, which the writer deems the
only correct one, and which has been

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

followed by some geologists, has thus
far led to very different conclusions
amongst them. This difference of opin-
ion arises from various causes, some of
the chief of which are that the observers
see different facts, as well as draw dif-
ferent conclusions from the same facts.
Some of the different views will be
given below, commencing with the
view that the jaspilites are of eruptive
origin.

If we return to the partially, or not at
all, consolidated detrital rocks that ex-
isted as sea deposits in the primitive
days, we find that these rocks were ap-
parently invaded by eruptive material
which forced its way irregularly through
the soft sedimentary materials, indu-
rated them, bent their planes of deposi-
tion, changed their color, and sent
tongues, arms and dikes
through them in every di-
rection. It has also been pro-
truded through the schists
in large masses, contorting
them and tearing them
across, and oftentimes ending
in small arms and branches.
This eruptive rock is now
very greatly metamorphosed,
and is termed jaspilite. Like
the siliceous eruptive rhyo-
lites and felsites, it is gener-
ally more or less banded in
its character, which banding
is due apparently to its hav-
ing flowed, a phenomenon that has its
counterpart in the banding of the
siliceous furnace slags, such as one
may see about the iron furnaces of the
Marquette district. It is this fluidal
structure or banding that is so often
mistaken in the rhyolites, felsites and
trachytes for the planes of sediment-
ation.

It is a well known fact that all of the
eruptive rocks contain iron in the form
of magnetite and hematite in greater or
less abundance, and some contain iron
in its metallic state. The latter is the
case with some basaltic dikes in Green-
land, which hold not only finely divided
magnetite and metallic iron throughout
their entire mass, but also contain im-

mense blocks of metallic iron imbedded
in them. So, too, the old, coarsely
crystalline, eruptive basalts known as
gabbros contain, about Duluth and else-
where in Minnesota, so much iron ore
that they have been worked for it, and
the only drawback to their successful
working is the fact that the iron con-
tains titanium. Were iron ore as valu-
able as native copper, there is not a
dike or lava flow of any size that it
would not pay to work ; and were iron
ore as valuable as silver, no eruptive
rock now exists on the face of the globe
that would not be actively prospected.
The question is merely one of value
and amount. In the same way we find
iron ore associated with the jaspilites
to a greater or less extent. In some
places the ore is locally concentrated
with little or
no jaspilite ;
in others the
jaspilite pre-
dominates,
and forms a
lean ore not
suitable for
working.
The concen-
tration of

the ore, ill Lfodies sufiiciently rich to
be worked, is very irregular, but the
ore is said to be generally in lenses
connected by the intervening leaner
portions of jaspilite, the amount of the
workable portion varying, of course,
with the varying price of ore.

The jaspilite, with its associated ore,
is found to have been subsequently
broken or jointed, and the cracks filled
in with iron ore, apparently through
the action of the percolating waters,
which have acted chemically on both
the jaspilite and its ore, and brought
about great changes in both. Further,
we find that the jaspilite and its ore have
been broken up and worn away by the
ancient waters, and deposited as mud,

GEOLOGICAL.

83

sand and shingle upon the underlying
ore deposits. This detrital or sediment-
ary material has become consolidated,
and forms true sedimentary deposits of
iron ore, which in many places are apt
to be lean. These deposits have been
worked, to a greater or less extent, for
their ore.

Wherever the intrusive masses of the
jaspilite have come in contact with the
schists the latter have been impregnated
with iron to a greater or less extent,
and these impregnations are sometimes
mined.

The iron ore that belongs with the jas-
pilite is mainly of two mineral species,
magnetite and hematite. The former
is known by its forming a black pow-
der when pulverized, and by its frag-
ments being attracted by a magnetized
knife-blade. It crystallizes in eight or
twelve-sided figures (octahedrons and
dodecahedrons), but usually the crystals
interfere with one another, so that none
of them can attain a complete form;
hence there results a granular structure
composed of irregular, rounded grains
like pitted peas, mustard or sand grains.

Hematite, on the other hand, forms
a red powder when pulverized, and its
fragments are not normally attracted by
a magnetized knife-blade. Practically,
the Lake Superior hematite is attracted
to some extent, owing, probably, to
the enclosed magnetite. Hematite
crystallizes in flattish hexagonal forms,
and when the crystals are imperfectly
developed they tend to form plates or
scales, like the well known micaceous
hematite. This general difference be-
tween the platy or scaly structure of
hematite and the granular structure of
magnetite is useful in distinguishing the
mineralogically important ore of iron
known as martite. This ore is a magnet-
ite that has been chemically altered
to a hematite ; it retains the form of the
magnetite which it once was, but it has
lost the chemical composition of mag-
netite and assumed that of hematite.
In the same way its powder has no
longer the black color of magnetite,
but the red color of hematite. The
martite can then be easily distinguished

from hematite, as a rule, by its possess-
ing the granular structure of magnetite,
and from magnetite by its giving the
red streak or powder of hematite.

The supposed hematite frequently
occurs in thin layers in the jaspilite,
and in irregular masses in the schists.
Microscopic sections of these forms
which the writer has examined always
show that the supposed hematite does
not occur in the form of hematite, but
in the form of magnetite, hence was a
martite instead of a hematite proper.
It has been suggested by Brooks that
all the Lake Superior ore was once
magnetite, a view that has many facts
to support it.

If one chooses to observe carefully
the relation of the jaspilite to the schists
in the mines, he will see that the former
with its associated ore oftentimes ir-
regularly branches or cuts through the
schists (or soap rocks of the miners).
This irregular branching character of
the jaspilite is in full accord with the
view that it is eruptive in its origin,
which explains why it cuts across the
foliation or platy structure of the schist.
This leaves them with little support,
and with the sharp edges pointing
downward. To this cause is due part
of the great insecurity of the hanging
walls of schist and the danger to the
miners working beneath.

The question of the eruptive origin
of the jaspilite and its associated iron
ore is one of great economic and scien-
tific interest, but our limits allow us
only briefly to discuss it here. Their
eruptive origin was in 1850 advocated
by Foster and Whitney, but the view
taken by these investigators was con-
sidered by subsequent observers to be
incorrect, and the structure of the jas-
pilite explained by sedimentation, i.e.,
that the iron ore was originally a bog
iron or limonite which had subsequently
been metamorphosed. In 1879 the
present writer collected sufficient facts
in the Marquette district then to prove,
to him at least, that the sedimentary
view was untenable, and that with our
present knowledge the eruptive origin
of jaspilite and its associated iron ore

84

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &> ATLANTIC RAILWaF.

with their subsequent chemical alter-
ation by percolating waters, was the
only view that would explain the phe-
nomena as he then saw and figured
them. This opinion was later endorsed
by Selwyn, Director of the Geological
Survey of Canada. More recently an
attempt was made by Irving to explain
the origin of the ore as a carbonate,
but he, as well as nearly all the more
recent advocates of sedimentation,
starts out by either denying or be-
littling the occurrence of the very facts
that the present writer has figured, and
that have caused him to hold the
eruptive view. Any theory of the or-
igin of the iron ores that starts out with
a denial of the facts that it ought to
explain, can hardly be accepted until it
recognizes those facts and explains
them. When this is done, and all the
facts of the ore deposits collected, we
may hope for some common ground of
agreement, which will serve as a guide
in exploring for and mining the ores.
In accordance with this method of
studying the ores and associated jas-
pilite, N. H. Winchell, in his discussion
of the iron ore of the Vermilion
district, in his report for 1886, admits
the occurrence of the eruptive phenom-
ena, but explains these phenomena as
due to sedimentary and chemical ac-
tion, instead of being due to eruptive
causes. The late State Geologist of
Michigan, Mr. Chas. E. Wright, had, as
early as 1885, come to the conclusion
that the only satisfactory explanation
of part of the phenomena of the iron
ores was that they were eruptive, and
it must be admitted that no geologist
in America was more familiar with the
iron ore deposits of Michigan than he.
It is a source of the deepest regret that
he could not have lived to publish his
evidence and conclusions.

The writer based his conclusions
that the ores were eruptive, on the fact
that the jaspilite and ore form dikes and
intrusions in the associated sandstones
and schists, inclosing fragments or
" horses '' of the schist ; on their twist-
ing, bending and indurating the schist,
fining it with crystals of the ore ; on

their breaking in every direction across
the foliation of the schist, as well a&
with it ; on their pronged structure ;
on the former magnetite condition of
the iron ore ; and, as suggested by
Whitney, on the great mass and purity
of the ore, which is beyond that of any
known sedimentary deposit. One fact
that has an important bearing on this
is, that the ore is never isolated in the
schist, but is always connected with
the jaspilite, and while that jaspilite
may end in one direction like any
dike, it has never been known to end
in another direction, unless cut by a
fault or by later eruptive rocks, so far
as the writer can ascertain. So long,
then, as the jaspilite can be followed,
there is a prospect of obtaining good
ore somewhere along its continuation.
The irregular occurrence of the ore
and its jaspilite, especially its being
found in the most unexpected places
thrust through the schist, is another
strong evidence of its eruptive origin.

One of the economic aspects of the
question is as follows '/ It the ore is
sedimentary, it must follow the laws of
sedimentation and be worked out the
same as a coal bed, but if of eruptive
origin its future is unlimited, except by
the difficulties of deep mining, or be-
because of its being cut out by the dia-
base and diorite or some other eruptive
rock. If the view of Foster, Selwyn,
Whitney, Wright and myself is correct,
it means far more for the future per-
manence and success of the iron ore
mining industry of Michigan than do
any of the other views that have been
suggested. This fact must not, how-
ever, influence our decision, which
must be based purely on the evidence
and its interpretation.

The intrusive relation of the jaspilite
to the schist can be seen in the railroad
cuttings southeast of the Marquette
depot, where the writer discovered jas-
pilite dikes in 1888. Evidence of the
eruptive origin of the ores and jaspilite
can also be observed in most of the
old workings about the Jackson, Cleve-
land, Lake Superior, and various other
mines about Negaunee and Ishpeming,

GEOLOGICAL.

85

although they are not as plainly mark-
ed now as when the workings were
new, because of the weathering, the fill-
ing in of debris, etc. The entire region
from Marquette to Michigamme is full
of interest at every point, and nowhere
can a student or geologist stop without
finding problems worthy of his atten-
tion.

The jaspilite is well exposed in ridges
to the southeast of the Jackson mine
and elsewhere about it.

Two additional areas of iron bear-
ing rocks were added by the State
Geological Survey under Mr. C. E.
Wright in 1885 to- the parts already
known, and shown on Irving's map
published in 1883. The first added
about forty square miles, mainly in the
Yellow Dog River Valley, extending
from the former known area to the
centre of T. 50, R. 28. The second
area added about thirty square miles
in the Silver Lake district, the rocks
being traced so.utheast into T. 48,
R. 26.

The fragmental deposits of ore and
jaspilite mentioned before are abun-
dant in many portions of this district,
in a large number of which they form
the only portion of the rocks worked
for iron ores that the State Geological
Survey has thus far observed. At Ne-
gaunee in the Jackson mine, pit No. 7,
which lies only a short distance from
the station, these fragmental formations
make up the chief mass of the ore
formation now exposed, passing up-
wards into a quarizite. The contact
can be seen on the northeast side be-
tween the non-fragmental or original
deposit . and the secondary fragmental
deposit made up of the debris of the
former.

On the jaspilite a few rods south of
this pit the detrital jaspilite can be seen
resting on the upturned edges of the
non-fragmental form.

In many places about the Jackson
mine, and to the north of the mine,
the fragmental overlying jaspilite for-
mation can be seen, often passing in
its upward continuation into a well-
marked quartzite — a passage which is

very common, especially when any
great thickness of the fragmental de-
posit has been left. The schists about
the Jackson mine also, in places, con-
tain fragments of the ore and jaspilite.
The fragmental jaspilite and ore is
abundant about Ishpeming, especially
at the Cleveland and Lake Superior
mines. The old surface workings north
of the Cleveland mine office show these
deposits, with their overlying quartzite,
excellently well, especially the pit that
contains the suspension or swinging
bridge, and the one that has the in-
clined plane for footways. It will be
seen that all these deposits are water
and frost deposits made out of the
debris of the iron formation, and that
they gradually pass from deposits con-
taining much iron ore and jaspilite,
more or less angular, into deposits con-
taining almost nothing except water-
worn sand grains that form a quartzite.

At the Lake Superior mine the
"Big W," figured by Brooks (Geol. of
Mich., 1873, I-. 245) to prove the
sedimentary origin of all the ore forma-
tions, is nothing except one of these
overlying deposits of fragmental ore,
jaspilite and quartz, made up chiefly
of the detritus of the underlying true
ore formation, whose origin was the
point in question.

At Republic and Humboldt the for-
mations at present observed appear to
belong wholly to the fragmental ones,
in which the detrital ore has been
concentrated, either mechanically or
chemically, in sufficient abundance
and purity for the purposes of the
miner, the Republic being one of the
leading iron mines of Michigan. About
Republic there may be seen, overlying
the fragmental ore formation, a second
fragmental formation made up of the
debris of the former, together with
much quartz. This latter formation
in places passes into a true quartzite.

At Sec. 15, T. 48, R. 26, where ex-
plorations have been carried on for
workable bodies of iron ore, the frag-
mental deposits of iron ore and jas-
pilite exist, and form, as at Republic,
the ore deposits, so far as found.

86

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &' ATLANTIC RAILWAF.

In the Cascade range all the forma-
tions of jaspilite and ore observed last
summer are of the fragmental kind.
Here the jaspilite, as well as the ore,
occurs in distinct rounded fragments
forming layers which are frequently
interlaminated with quartzite. Over-
lying this detrital formation is another
detrital deposit unconformable with it,
and composed of water-worn debris
derived in part from the underlying
fragmental deposit of jaspilite and ore.

We have now to consider what the
facts mentioned in the preceding pages
require for their explanation, in the
light of the principles also given, i.e.,
that an eruptive deposit can yield its
detritus as soon as the deposit has been
formetl ; but a sedimentary one must
exist for a long while, and be solidified
and more or less changed, before its
well-marked fragments can be depos-
ited in an overlying formation of sedi-
mentary origin. It needs also to be
remembered that the fragments of jas-
pilite and ore in the overlying detrital
deposits before mentioned are banded
and possess the same characters as
the non-fragmental underlying deposit
docs. Further, these fragments stand
at every angle in the deposit, while the
banding varies with the position of the
fragments, showing that it belonged
in the fragments before they were
broken from their parent bed, and was
not produced in them subsequently.
From the above statements it follows
that every cne of these fragmental de-
posits marks a distinct geological age
in the Marquette district, unless the
underlying formation be of eruptive
origin. If the latter was the case, then
it might mean merely sequence of time,
but not necessarily difference in geo-
logical age.

In the Cascade range, if the horn-
blende schist mentioned previously is
of true sedimentary origin, the over-
lying deposit is of a later geological
age, but if the schist is metamorphosed
eruptive rock, then no geological di-
vision can at present be established
there. As stated before, the overlying
granite and schist debris passes up-

ward into a fragmental jaspilite forma-
tion that has been, and now is, mined
about the Volunteer mine for iron ore.
This fragmental formation is here sup-
posed to be of the same geological age
as the workable fragmental formations
at Republic, Humboldt, etc., and the
overlying fragmental formations seen
at Negaunee and Ishpeming.

Overlying these fragmental forma-
tions comes a second deposition of
fragmental material, which shows that
here exists a true geological break or
age, even in the series that is younger
than the first detrital deposit derived
from the non-fragmental jaspilite and
ore. This last or overlying formation
is best seen at the Cascade range, at
Republic and at Holyoke. The above
data render it probable that in the
Marquette district there are three dis-
tinct geological formations or ages.

ist. The hornblende schist and
granite of Cascade or Palmer and the
non-fragmental jaspilite and ore of
Ishpeming and Negaunee — the Cas-
cade Formation.

2d. The fragmental jaspilite and ore,
with their associated quartzites and
schists, of Cascade, Republic, Hum-
boldt, Ishpeming, Negaunee and else-
where— the Republic Formation,

3d. The overlying conglomerates,
quarzites and schists of Cascade, Re-
public, Holyoke and elsewhere — the
Holyoke Formation.

Various working hypotheses may be
suggested to account for the observed
facts ; if it could be proved that the
supposed non-fragmental jaspilite and
ore of Ishpeming and Negaunee are
truly fragmental, their present relations
being due to sedimentary and chem-
ical action, and the squeezing together
of the jaspilite and schist, then that
formation could be put into the second
or Republic Formation ; while their
overlying fragmental debris would then
come into the third or the Holyoke
Formation.

At present it is possible that further
study may make out of these three
formations at least from four to six dif-
ferent ones, or it may reduce them to

GEOLOGICAL.

87

two. One or two seasons' more work
will probably solve the vexed ques-
tions of the origin of the ores and the
relations of the associated rocks.

DIABASE AND DIORITE.

Following the formation of the jas-
pilite and ore, and its denudation by
the ocean waters to produce the detrital
jaspilite and iron ore, together with the
iron ore-bearing quartzites and con-
glomerates, immense masses of basalt
were forced through the strata in a
liquid condition. The introduction of
so much new matter caused a squeez-
ing and upturning of the earlier formed
rocks, so that we now find the iron ore
andjaspilite with their associated schists
and quartzites lying against the sides of
the eruptive basalts or forming the in-
tervening low grounds. These basaltic
rocks, being the later comers, have cut
out the others, and frequently broken
through the lower portions of ore and
jaspilite, effectually barring further
working of the ore in that direction.
These old basalts have been very much
altered, and now form rocks known as
diabases, diorites and schists. It is
not improbable that many of th6se
diabase or diorite masses are the roots
of old volcanoes. Many suppose that
the altered basalts, that form the schists,
pass into sedimentary schists, but such
is not the case, as careful observation
will determine where one ends and the
other begins. The two look closely
alike and are similar to each other in
composition, but do not pass into
each other any more than water and oil
do, although an observer might not
see the line of separation between the
two. The contacts of the two forma-
tions can be seen to the east of Ish-
peming on a hill just north of the
Cleveland mine, as well as elsewhere
at points in which the altered and
schistose diabase and diorite come in
contact with the sedimentary schists.
The contact of the hornblende schist
with the diabase and diorite can be
well seen in many places about the
northern part of Marquette, where cut-
tings have been made, also where the

break-water material was quarried, and
upon Light House Point. Perhaps the
most easily accessible places for the
study of the old and altered basaltic
rocks, with their associated schists, are
in Marquette and vicinity, as well as
along the railroad lines from Marquette
to Ishpeming and beyond. The dia-
base and diorite form high rounded
hills, often with precipitous sides, and
they may be known by the greenish or
greenish gray color of the rock. Good
examples may be seen south of Ish-
peming in the hill lying between the
Lake Angeline and the Salisbury
mines, also to the north of Negaunee,
between that city and Teal Lake. Here
the rough columnar structure of basalt-
ic rocks, at right angles to their walls,
can be well seen.

GRANITE.

In this district there occur two or
more eruptions of granite, one of which
is older than the detrital jaspilite, if not
older than any of the ore-bearing for-
mations, while another occurred sub-
sequently to the eruptions of the before
mentioned old basaltic rocks, or dia-
bases and diorites. This granite has
had a marked effect upon the geology
and topography of the country, cutting
out the schists and ores over large
areas, and changing much of the schist
into gneiss. When the granite possesses
a banded or fluidal structure, it is called
gneiss ; but that term, the writer thinks,
ought to be restricted to the metamor-
phosed, foliated, sedimentary rocks
composed of quartz, feldspar and mica
or hornblende, or both.

Gneiss and granite are abundant to
the south of Ishpeming and in the
vicinity of Republic, Humboldt, Cham-
pion and Michigamme. It can be
found in North Marquette, at the
mouth of Dead River, on the west side
of Presque Isle, and upon the islands
and shore to the north and northeast
of that point.

Sugar Loaf is one of the prominent
granite hills north of Marquette. The
granite is composed mainly of quartz,
feldspar and hornblende, with some

88

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE (Sf ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

chlorite and mica. So far as observed,
it is somewhat more coarse-grained than
some of the ornamental granites ; but
it is suitable, if properly selected, for
all heavy buildings, warehouses, dwell-
ing-houses, piers, foundations, paving,
monuments, etc. ; that is, for nearly all
of the uses to which granite has been
put. The size and shape of the blocks
also indicate that it could be advan-
tageously quarried in large masses.
The writer's attention was particularly
called to this location by Mr. J. M.
Longyear. A good porphyritic granite
is found in the vicinity of Republic.
The present writer has for years, long
before he became a resident of the
State, urged the development of the
granite industry in this region, on the
ground of the rapidly increasing use of
granite, the immense amount of it in
the district, and the all-important fact
that direct water carriage exists to the
large cities of Chicago, Detroit, Mil-
waukee, Cleveland and Buffalo, as well
as to a hundred other Lake ports; while
the only United States granite that can
come into competition must be brought
by rail from New England, Missouri,
Minnesota, Wisconsin or some other
interior locality. Most of the granite
brought from the before mentioned
places is of no better quality or appear-
ance than Lake Superior granite, while
it is not improbable that more careful
investigation would reveal other grades
than those before mentioned. Why
should the authorities of the Calumet
and Hecla mine be forced to bring
granite for its use from the extreme
eastern portions of Massachusetts,
when granite equally good fur their
purpose is lying waste on the shores of
our lake? The careful development
of the granite industry would mean a
great addition to the wealth of Mich-
igan, and would be a great aid in ad-
vancing the towns in the vicinity of the
quarries, as well as assisting in the im-
provement of lake and railroad traffic.

PERIDOTITE AND SERPENTINE.

At Presque Isle and at the northwest
of Ishpeming occurs another eruptive

rock, which the present writer showed,
in 1880, was originally a peridotite or
olivine rock of the variety known as
Iherzolite — that is, composed of oli-
vine, enstatite and diallage. This pe-
ridotite, since its eruption, has been
altered to a greater or less extent, form-
ing a rock known as serpentine, while
in many places the formation of dolo-
mite has also occurred as a result of
the metamorphosis of the peridotite.
Frequently the dolomite and serpen-
tine are irregularly blended together,
forming the variety known as verde
antique.

No marble, in the proper acceptation
of that term, occurs in the Marquette
district, so far as is known, excepting
the serpentine. Serpentine is a soft
rock, and when of even texture is
easily polished, making a beautiful
stone for interior decorative purposes,
but it is unfit for outdoor use, as it
readily loses its polish on exposure,
and is easily acted upon by the weather.
Owing to the nature of serpentine its
use is limited, but it is to be hoped
that an early development of the ser-
pentine industry in Northern Michigan
may be found both practicable and
profitable.

The locality at Presque Isle is one of
the most interesting ones in which to
study peridotite, as it occurs there well
exposed, owing to its being washed by
the waves of the lake. It is here seen
as a dark to a black Iherzolite, pass-
ing into a serpentine of the same color,
and also into one of a green color,
especially on the northeast side. The
peridotite is here worn into caves, and
its surface traversed by a network of
fissures filled with dolomite, chrysotile
and silica, with occasionally some cop-
per, ores. Since accumulations of
chromite or chromic iron ore, nickel
ore, platinum, etc., are frequent ac-
companiments of the chemical altera-
tion of peridotite, during the process
of the formation of serpentine, ex-
plorers about the Ishpeming range
ought to keep a careful watch for these
substances.

A strongly marked fault or a fissure

GEOLOGICAL.

89

along which the rock has moved, so
that the different sides occupy a differ-
ent position relative to each other than
they formerly did, is to be seen in the
serpentine at Presque Isle, a short dis-
tance north of the caves. Mr. Wright
has suggested that there were two
eru-ptions of peridotite as a solution
of the difficult problems the rocks
present on Presque Isle. This view
had much evidence to support it, but
further study by the writer goes to show
that the so-called two eruptions are
phenomena caused by various fractures,
fissures and joints, together with the
unequal action of the percolating
waters, as well as weathering. On the
west side of Presque Isle one can find
the granite with the serpentine adjacent.
Excavations made by Mr. Seaman and
the present writer prove to them that
the contact of the two is an eruptive
one, and that the peridotite is the later
eruptive.

The Ishpeming serpentine is found
to cut off and trend obliquely across
the eruptive granites, diorites, diabases,
etc., and not to be cut by the dikes
which freely traverse the other rocks.
All this indicates the later age of the
serpentine. Direct proof of this is to
be found on Sec. 31, T. 48, R. 27, in
which locality the serpentine is seen in
direct eruptive contact with diorite and
chlorite schist, rendering the proof
complete that the serpentine is the
youngest of the large intrusive masses
seen thus far in the Marquette district.

DOLOMITE.

Dolomite or magnesian limestone is
found in various localities throughout
the Azoic rocks. It is usually very
impure, and contains a large amount
of silica. One of the best known lo-
calities is south of Carp River, near the
quartzites ; another is at the Morgan
furnace. As before stated, dolomite is
of common occurrence in association
with the serpentine north of Ishpeming,
and here it belongs to the chemically
formed rocks, being a product formed
during the alteration of the psridotite
to serpentine. Part of the Michigan

dolomite belongs in one sense to the
eruptive rocks as a product of their
alteration, while part of it belongs to
the sedimentary group.

DIKES.

During the time of the eruption of
the diorite and granite, as well as sub-
sequently, the country was traversed
by fissures filled in by molten matter
that formed dikes. In fact all the older
rocks of the region are traversed by
dikes, some of which run approximately
east and west, and others north and
south. The majority of these dikes
are old basalts, that now form through
alteration, diabases, diorites and schists.
They are well developed on Light
House Point in Marquette, Picnic
Point and Picnic Islands, and on the
islands in the vicinity of Presque Isle.
They show excellently well wherever
the granite is exposed on the shore
north of Presque Isle. At Presque Isle
also the serpentine is cut by the later
east and west dikes.

Others of these dikes are old rhy-
olites that through their alteration now
possess the characters of a rock called
felsite or quartz porphyry. They can
be seen on Light House Point cut by
the later basaltic dikes. They are also
common in the Gold Range.

CHEMICALLY DEPOSITED MATERIALS.

Throughout the preceding pages
illustrations have been given, that show
the chemical action of the percolating
waters found in all rocks, for there is
no known rock, unless exception be
made for rocks in the form of glass,
that will not absorb water to a greater
or less extent. All these waters are
chemically active, whether hot or cold,
pure or not ; but it is undisputed that
heat, pressure and substances in solu-
tion in the water greatly increase their
chemical activity. It has been pointed
out that all rocks are modified or
changed through the action of the
chemically active waters, leading either
to the decomposition of the rocks or to
a change in their mineralogical com-
position, and oftentimes to a change in

9Ci DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &' ATLANTIC RAIL WAV.

structure. It has further been pointed
out that the alterations brought about
by the chemical waters, with or with-
out heat and pressure, has caused rocks
formerly of the same character and
composition to take upon themselves
very diverse forms. It has also been
noticed that rocks of entirely different
origin and structure, like sedimentary
and eruptive rocks, have been so
changed by this action that the result-
ing forms are indistinguishable from
one another except by their geological
mode of occurrence.

All these changes in rocks have not
proceeded without certain mineral
matters being removed from one lo-
cality and deposited in another. A
strong tendency is observed towards a
localization of the moved mineral pro-
duct, or towards special aggregation
of mineral matter, some of which are
economically of no importance, while
others form useful ore deposits. The
special accumulations of this material
in the Azoic system, that are of eco-
nomic interest to us, are the veins and
the soft ore deposits known principally
amongst the miners as soft hematites.

SOFT IRON ORES.

Such Igneous activity as that before
mentioned could not take place in this
region without the percolating waters
becoming heated and their chemical
and solvent action being greatly increas-
ed, for when the volcanic energies are
dying, one of the last traces of that
eruptive activity is shown in the hot
springs.

The rocks amongst which so much
eruptive matter has been forced are
necessarily fractured, bent and twisted
— the fractures serving as channels for
the escape of the waters in the form of
springs or as underground streams. It
is found in the Marquette region that
the jaspilite and the associated detrital
rocks, that contain iron ore, have been
greatly decomposed and affected by
the percolating waters, generally hot ;
and that as a result the silica has been
leached out and the oxide of iron de-
posited in its place, or else the 6riginal

iron ore has been left behind or locally
concentrated. Through the action of
these percolating waters many of the
siliceous schists, chlorite schists, argil-
lites, quartzites and jaspilites, which
were formerly worthless as ores, have
been rendered valuable by having their
siliceous materials largely replaced by
oxides of iron, etc., giving rise to the
ores locally known as soft hematites.
Oftentimes the iron ores are locally
aggregated in irregular chambers from
which the original rock has been
removed.

The ores produced by the above de-
scribed vvater-action are not only ores
of iron like hematite, limonite and
gothite, but also ores of manganese,
like pyrolusite, manganite, psilome-
lane, rhodochrosite and wad. Barite,
as well as other minerals, are found
associated with the manganese ores in
the vicinity of Negaunee. The soft
hematites naturally occur in places
where the rocks have been more or
less arched, or bent and broken. They
are very commonly found in the lower
lands and on the sides of the diorite
and diabase hills, or in their vicinity,
at points where the fracturing would
naturally be greatest and the water
would best act. The Salisbury mine
was first worked at a point at which a
large diabase dike breaks across the
country and cuts obliquely through the
large diorite hill that lies between the
Salisbury and the Lake Angeline mines.
The writer pointed out eleven years
ago, that on the Lake Angeline side,
at the point where this dike again cuts
the jaspilite and schists, would be the
most probable chance for finding an-
other soft hematite mine, as at this
point water action is going on even at
the present day.

The soft ores are also found at con-
siderable distance from the diorite hills
when any action has caused the rocks
to form suitable channels for water, so
that they have become more or less-
decomposed.

VEIXS.

One of the latest phases of the for-
mation of deposits of value has been the

GEOLOGICAL.

91

filling in of fissures by the water-de-
posited quartz and other vein materials,
or, in case no crack nor fissure existed,
by the removal of the country rocks
along certain lines and their replace-
ment by vein matter.

Veins formed thus may contain only
quartz or other valueless minerals,
gangue, or they may hold valuable
metals and ores. It is in veins that
the gold and silver north of Ishpeming
are worked, the vein at the Ropes
gold mine being in serpentine, while
the others are in diorite, granite, fel-
site and schist. Quartz veins can easily
be seen in the diorite hills about Ish-
peming, and in many places in the
Azoic rocks and elsewhere.

POTSDAM SANDSTONE.

The rocks of the A^oic system were
still subject to the same denudation by
frost and rain, and by the beating of
the waves after that formation had been
completed, that the different members
of the formation had been subjected to
before the entire system was complete.
That is, there were deposited about the
Azoic rocks mud, sand and shingle, in
like manner as such materials are being
deposited on our lake shores at the
present time. This detritus, on con-
solidation, has formed a series of shales,
sandstones and conglomerates, which
overlie or abut against the Azoic rocks,
and are formed out of the debris of the
latter. These sandstones form in Mich-
igan the base of a new system of rocks
known as the Palaeozoic, or ancient
life, from its containing the earliest
authentic remains of animal life. The
sandstones are generally considered to
be the equivalent of a sandstone in
New York called the Potsdam sand-
stone— hence the rocks are said to be
Potsdam.

South of Carp River this sandstone
can be seen lying against the Azoic
quartzites and formed out of their
debris. The Marquette sandstone
quarries are in this Potsdam sandstone,
and at the base of the quarries may be
found conglomerates made up of the
underlying Azoic quartzites, diorites,

argillites, schists, etc. A short distance
south of Hotel Marquette can be seen
on the west side of Champion Street,
leading to South Marquette, some
rounded diorite and schist knobs that
have been polished and grooved by
former glacial action.

These knobs have been exposed by
excavations made for the purpose of
obtaining filling for some adjacent
ravines. A matter of special interest is
the finding of small veins of the former-
ly overlying Potsdam sandstone that
has filled the cracks in these rocks,
that formed bosses or little knobs on
the shores of the old Potsdam sea.
The Potsdam sandstone is found over-
lying much of the serpentine of Presque
Isle where the basement conglomerate
is well exposed, although that conglom-
erate has subsequently been much
altered, apparently, by heat and water.
The same sandstone occurs further
north on the shore, and on some of the
islands that overlie the Azoic granite,
which has been decomposed fc r some
distance below the base of the sand-
stone. This decomposition is seen to
extend to the boulders of granite and
other rocks in the basement sandstone
and conglomerate. These changes un-
questionably have occurred since the
sandstone has been deposited, and the
precolating waters are apparently the
cause of the decomposition. The
sandstone extends, with greater or less
continuity, along the shores of Lake
Superior, around Keweenaw Bay and
Keweenaw Point. On Partridge Isl-
and clayey or sandstone fragments
occur abundantly in the Potsdam sand-
stone itself. They are not probably
fragments of another formation, but
water-worn masses of clay, etc., derived
from the Potsdam sandstone itself.
The writer has seen similar deposits
being formed on the Bay of Fundy in
the vicinity of St. John. Potsdam
sandstone is quarried to a considerable
extent at various points in Northern
Michigan, chiefly at Marquette and
Portage Entry. It makes a very pretty
building stone, and one for which
there is ready sale. Some of the prom-

92

nULUTH, SOUTH SHORE & ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

inent buildings constructed of the
Marquette stone are the High School
building and several business blocks in
Marquette. Of the Portage Entry
stone examples can be seen in
several of the business blocks
at Marquette, the State Prison
at the same place, and the
National Bank and the
Mining School at
Houghton.
The Potsdam
sandstone
was evi-
de n 1 1 y

formed on
the shores of
a body of water
accessible to ocean
tides, as it shows
ripple-marks, sun-
cracks, rain-drop impres-
sions and mud-flows, which
indicate conditions that are
only known to exist in local- U
ities where the alternate ebb
flow of the tides occur.

During the time of the deposition of
this sandstone, volcanic activity com-
menced again, and the central portion
of Keweenaw Point is found to be com-
posed of alternating lava-flows, sand-
stones and conglomerates, deposited
upon the tide-washed sinking shores
of the sea. The intermittent volcanic
activity ceased for a while after the main
range of Keweenaw Point was formed,
leaving time for the formation of a
broad belt of sandstone and conglome-
rate ; but again recommenced, forming
the basaltic rocks exposed along the
northern side of Keweenaw Point at
Eagle Harbor, Agate Harbor, Copper
Harbor and elsewhere.

In connection with these lava-flows
from fissure eruptions which were of a

basaltic character, there was also extrav-
asated much volcanic material of a
trachytic and rhyolitic nature, the
debris of which makes up the chief
portion of the interbedded sandstones
and conglomerates. These occur in
the form of intrusive dikes, bosses, etc.
The basaltic rocks forming the south-
eastern range of Keweenaw Point,
known as the Bohemian Mountains,
were considered by Foster and Whitney
to be intrusive masses erupted subse-
quently to the formation of the main
deposits in this region. Irving, how-
ever, considered them to be ordinary
flows, like the rest of the lava-flows
of Keweenaw Point. He does not
advance any special proof of this prop-
osition, while the phenomena pre-
sented by him, as well as by Foster and
Whitney, appear to be more in ac-
cordance with the view that they
are later eruptive masses,
as held by the last-named
observers. However, the
question is yet an open
one. The basaltic
lava-flows are
known to be
such, as
pointed out
^IaT^x X by Foster

and
Whitney,
by their
baking,
or indu-
rating, or hardening
the underlying rock
by their sending dikes
and tongues down
the rocks ; by their
caught up fragments
lying rock ; by their crystalline struct-
ure being best developed below the
centre of the flow ; by their having no
eff"ect upon the overlying conglom-

GEOLOGICAL.

93

erate, while the debris of the lava is to
be found in the base of the conglom-
erate ; by the overlying conglomerate
and sandstone filling cracks in the
underlying lava-flow, etc. The thin-
ner basaltic lava-flows were cooled
quickly, so that they contained much
glass, which was readily decomposed
by the percolating waters. In their
altered condition they now form rocks
known to geologists as melaphyrs, but
which are locally called amygdaloids.

The thicker flows formed heavy beds,
which cooled more slowly, became
more crystalline and were less easily
affected by the percolating waters than
the thinner flows. These heavy flows,
owing to their alteration, now form
rocks by geologists named diabases and
gabbros, but locally called traps and
greenstones. All these now diff"erent
rocks were once lavas of the same
chemical constitution, differing only
in structure and in those differences
of crystallization and mineral constitu-
tion that result from slow or rapid
cooling.

These flows must have taken place
over the gently sloping tide-washed
shore of a sea, whose shore was grad-
ually, or, it may be, at times abruptly
sinking, so that the flows and their
detriial deposits accumulated at about
the same rate as the shore sank,
making the shore line approximately
constant. This must have been the
case, or the lava-flows and conglom-
erates would have been more irregular,
less constant, would have covered a
more limited area, and would soon
have been built up beyond the reach
of the waves.

Owing to the natural irregularities
of a lava-flow, and of the resulting in-
equality of the sedimentary deposits, it
is to be expected that some inequalities
in thickness of both formations should
exist, and that sometimes one or the
other should be wanting. For instance,
if a portion of the lava was raised above
the sea, that portion would not be
covered by either sandstone or con-
glomerate, but only by its own decom-
position products, if even they were not

carried away by the rain. Hence it
would happen that the material be-
tween two flows would be marked at
one point by a conglomerate, but else-
where only by a thin seam, or else the
two flows would be interfused.

It also frequently happened that a
comparatively short time existed be-
tween two flows. In such a case little
or no conglomerate could form be-
tween them, and as the latter flow fused
again the top of the earlier flow, the two
became united into one mass, so that
it is difficult to ascertain where one
begins and the other ends.

THE COPPER-BEARING OR KEWEENAWAN
SERIES.

The relation of the lava-flows with
their interbedded conglomerates to the
Potsdam sandstone on the east is a
matter of great scientific and economic
interest, and has given rise to much
discussion, which is liable to continue
for many years to come, until the whole
truth shall be known. In the report of
Foster and Whitney, the eastern sand-
stone was considered to be once con-
tinuous with the sandstone that lies to
the west of Keweenaw Point, but it was
thought that the two parts had been
separated by a fracture or fault plane
that extended along the entire southern
side of Keweenaw Point. This fault
allowed the sandstone on the east to
remain horizontal, while the lava-flows
on the west were tilted up at the same
angle that they at present have, and the
overlying western sandstone was sub-
sequently worn away. The sandstone
east of the fault line was said to lie
horizontally, or to dip to the southeast.

Later, attention was called to certain
observations made along the line of
the fault, especially at the Douglas
Houghton Falls. These observations
caused the lava-flows and their inter-
bedded sedimentary rocks to be con-
sidered as an older geological forma-
tion than the eastern or Potsdam sand-
stone. The lavas were said to form an
old sea-shore bluff" on the Potsdam sea,
and the sandstone was laid down hori-
zontally, abutted against the cliffs.

94

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &f ATLANTIC RAILWAY.

and was formed from their water-worn
debris. Various other opinions have
also been advanced, reference to which
our limited space does not permit.

In 1879 the present writer made an
examination of the formations at the
points at which, on the Douglas
Houghton and Hungarian Rivers, the
eastern sandstone comes in contact
with the lavas, or, as they are now
commonly called, the copper-bearing
rocks or Keweenawan series. He found
that the sandstones, instead of lying
horizontally, dipped gradually or ir-
regularly toward the" northwest ; and
that, instead of abutting against the
copper-bearing rocks, they were over-
laid by the latter, and the two were
interbedded. Later, the correctness
of these observations was denied by
Irving, who upheld the view of the
greater age of the copper-bearing rocks,
but moved the supposed sea-shore cliff
from its former supposed locality and
placed it elsewhere. Subsequently the
question was taken up by Irving and
Chamberlin in defence of the view that
the copper-bearing rocks are older than
the eastern sandstone. If, however,
one will take their published observa-
tions, together with the sections of this
later work, he will see that their pre-
ceding observations are discredited,
and that they fully sustain the correct-
ness of the present writer's statement,
that the sandstone dipped under the
copper-bearing rocks instead of being
separated from them by a vertical fault
or an old sea bluff. The result is, that
in the main point at issue the present
writer was shown to be correct, i.e.,
that the sandstone did underlie the
copper-bearing rocks, and the main
question was then transferred to one of
interpretation. Do the lavas overlie
the eastern sandstone on account of
their having flowed over them in the
form of a molten lava, as the writer
claims, or have the lavas been thrust
up over the sandstones through the
motion of an older solid mass along
an obliqu6 fault plane, as last held by
Irving and Chamberlin.?

During the summer of 1889 an ex-
amination of that question was made
by the State Geological Survey, and the
rocks uncovered along the line of
contact of the sandstone and lavas for
the purpose of ascertaining their exact
relations. The result has been to
prove to the present writer, beyond any
reasonable doubt, that on the Douglas
Houghton and. Hungarian Rivers, as
well as on Sec. 20, T. 56, R. 32 N., the
sandstone does dip gently toward the
lavas, and finally passes under them
with an increasing dip ; that the junc-
tion is not a fault junction but that of
a lava-flow upon an underlying soft
sand and mud. The lowest bed of
melaphyr was found on the Douglas
Houghton River to be overlaid by
sandstone, as described by the writer
in 1880, although this fact had been
denied by the before-mentioned au-
thors. The copper-bearing rocks on
the north side of Douglas Houghton
River are seen to overlie the eastern
sandstone for about 150 feet. Along
the line of contact to the north on the
St. Louis location and in Wall ravine,
as well as south of Portage Lake,
proof of distinct faulting could be
obtained, which sustains the fault claim-
ed by Foster and Whitney, Irving and
others. Along the Douglas Houghton
contact no sign of any fault existed,
but in the copper-bearing series just
below the falls, several fractures with
evidences of the motions of sides
were observed that would indicate a
faulting here.

The fault plane, wherever observed
along the line of contact, showed that
the overhanging wall was on the side
next the copper-bearing rocks. It is
well known by all miners and geolo-
gists that in all normal faults, i.e., the
commonly occurring faults, the rock
on the hanging side of the fault has
slipped down relatively to the rock
forming the foot wall. A reversed
fault is one in which the hanging wall
side has been pushed up on the foot
wall side of the fault. The reversed
faults are generally considered to be

GEOLOGICAL.

95

rare, so much so that some geologists
deny that they ever occur, although
the present writer has seen them asso-
ciated with normal faults in the
Cheever ore bed at Port Henry, New
York. This rare mode of faulting is
the one assumed by Irving, who was
obliged also to assume that the uplift
of the hanging wall was accompanied
by a thrust to the eastward, a view that
some observations by the Geological
Survey, especially by Mr. Seaman,
would sustain, but which the present
writer thinks need more careful exami-
nation and further confirmation before
they are accepted as conclusive, since
all can be explained by the repeated
movements that usually occur along
the sides of a fault.

The present writer holds that the
sandstone, which all have agreed was
eastern sandstone, underlies the cop-
per-bearing rocks, and that the first
lava of that series flowed over the east-
ern sandstone, which is older than the
copper-bearing or Keweenawan series.
Subsequently a fault line or fissure was
formed, running near what is now the
point of contact of the sandstone and
lavas, sometimes exactly at that point,
sometimes on the lava side, and prob-
ably sometimes on the sandstone side
of it. Along this fissure it is probable
that a normal fault occurred, along
which, by the slipping down of the
hanging or wedge-shaped side, the
sandstones and their interbedded lavas
were more or less bent downwards or
contorted, as they are now found to be.
This normal faulting accounts for the
fact that sometimes the lava and some-
times its associated conglomerate is
brought in contact with the eastern
sandstone along the fault line. It is
to be remembered that in almost all
faults there is more or less rubbing back
and forth, or up and down motion,
although the final result of these varied
motions is the production of a reversed
or normal fault according to the direc-
tion in which the greatest amount of
motion took place.

This view would explain most of
the difficulties that geologists have had

in understanding this series, especially
if it should be shown that the lava-
flows came from the main lake side
instead of from the Keweenaw Bay
side, as that would only require the cut-
off remnants of the edges of the lava-
flows to be removed by denudation
on the Keweenaw Bay side.

Should the reversed fault be proved
to be the true one then the view of
Foster and Whitney concerning the
relations of the copper-bearing rocks
would appear to be more correct than
that of Irving, while a normal fault
would be consistent with the theory
that the copper-bearing rocks are of
Triassic age.

VEINS AND COPPER DEPOSITS.

Besides the fault before mentioned,
numerous fissures cross Keweenaw
Point instead of running longitudinally
with it, and more or less faulting oc-
curs along these fissure lines. Portage
Lake lies in a trough excavated along
one of these fissures, while many of
the others are filled with vein matter
which has been mined to a greater or
less extent. These fractures and fis-
sures with faulting across Keweenaw
Point probably were developed subse-
quently to the formation of the longi-
tudinal fault or faults, if more than one
such fault shall later be proved to exist.
Should such be the case, it would ac-
count for part of the assumed thick-
ness of the beds.

The before mentioned fissures seem
to have been formed by powerful move-
ments of different parts of the rocks
that caused the cross fracture and dis-
location of the latter. The movements
were repeated from time to time, caus-
ing a rubbing, grinding, breaking and
polishing of the parts adjacent to the
fissures. After the main fissures
had been formed, the subsequent
movements would not cause any very
extensive secondary breaking of the
compact and heavy beds of diabase and
conglomerate, but in the soft and
scoriaceous melaphyrs the fracturing
would be much greater, so that the
parts adjacent to the fissures would be

96

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE 6f ATLANTIC RAILWAV.

much broken. During the time of
the fracturing, and subsequently, these
fissures served as channels for the chem-
ically active waters, which also perco-
lated through the adjacent rocks. In
the scoriaceous and easily decompos-
able melaphyrs the veins were widened
by the decomposition of the adjacent
rock, but in the coarsely crystalline
and heavy diabases, as a rule, the same
effects were produced, either not af all
or only to a limited extent. The sand-
stones and conglomerates, biing com-
posed principally of trachytic and rhy-
olitic material, are much less affected
by percoladng waters than the basaltic
rocks, hence the fissures are not gener-
ally widened in them, especially if they
are in thick beds. At the time when
the percolating waters were acting on
the rocks adjacent to the fissures they
were also working in the rocks every-
where upon the Keweenaw Point.

In many localities the evidence is
strong that the percolating waters were
hot, while in others, as remarked by
Marvine, no sign exists that they were
above the temperature of the waters of
the present day. These waters per-
colated with more or less readiness
through the rocks, causing a greater or
less alteration and decay ; while the
substances they took up were deposited
in any fissures, cells cr other open
spaces that existed in the rock, or else
portions of the rock were dissolved
out and their places refilled. This is
strikingly seen in the conglomerates,
like the Calumet and Hecla, in which
pebbles of the easily decomposable
melaphyr have been partly or entirely
removed and their places filled with
copper or some other minerals.

Besides copper, the deposited min-
erals are mainly quartz, calcite, epidote,
laumontite, prehnite, delessite, chlorite,
datolite, analcite, orthoclase, apophyl-
lite, etc. All, or nearly all, of the ma-
terials that fill the crevices, cells and
other places in the lavas and conglom-
erates apparently were derived from the
decomposition of the lavas themselves,
and the course of the waters carrying
these materials in solution seems to

have been downward. The fissures
that form the veins were filled at the
same time and by the same agencies
as those that acted upon the rocks,
and the materials in them likewise
appear to have been obtained from the
adjacent rocks themselves. In the nar-
rower portions the veins are often filled
with vein matter proper, but in the
wider portions the veins are often com-
posed of broken-up masses of mela-
phyr, etc., cemented by vein matter.

In the veins the copper is found
intimately mixed with the gangue, or
in sheets or irregular masses. In sheet
form the copper extends downward or
has its sides approximately parallel
with the vein. Oftentimes the sheet
divided, and held between its parts
some of the gangue or melaphyr. It
is also not uncommon to find, entirely
enclosed in the copper, masses of mel-
aphyr, quartz, calcite or other vein
materials. The melaphyrs themselves
are often impregnated with copper
adjacent to the veins. Good illustra-
tions of the veins can be seen at the
Phoenix, Cliff, Central, Copper Falls,
and other mines in Keweenaw County.

In the vicinity of Hancock, Hough-
ton and Opechee, some of the old lavas
are mined. As stated before, these old
lava-flows, which now form melaphyrs
(amygdaloids), have been greatly acted
upon by water, and have had deposited
in their mass different minerals J^sso-
ciated with more or less copper. The
copper is generally deposited in an ir-
regular manner in the melaphyr, form-
ing strings, globules, irregular masses,
etc. The^e deposits are not in the form
of veins, but are impregnations of old
lava-flows, and hence are in the form
of beds. As an example of mines
worked upon these old lava-flows there
may be cited the Quincy, Franklin,
Osceola, Atlantic, Huron, and the
Copper Falls in part. The Copper
Falls has been worked in part on an
old lava-flow of a very scoriaceous char-
acter, that formed originally a black,
rough, cellular lava sheet covered with
clinkers, similar to many well-known
modern lava-flows. At the time of the

GEOLOGICAL.

97

flow, or after it, the interstices were
filled with detrital mud, while the
various parts of the flow appear to be
connected, and do not form true water-
worn pebbles. The writer has col-
lected at Copper Falls portions of the
rock that show the hardened exterior
crust and the cellular interior, as they
occur in small masses and bombs of
modern lavas, while he has found pre-
served intact the original ropy, stringy,
twisted surface of the lava. The Copper
Falls bed, above described, is locally
called the ash-bed, but it is a melaphyr
or a true lava-flow, and not a bed of
volcanic ashes. The Atlantic mine
appears to be worked upon the same
or a similar formation.

Besides the veins and lava-flows, the
conglomerates have also been found in
places to have had their interstices
filled in with copper and other min-
erals. In them the old cementing
mud, and oftentimes the pebbles of
melaphyr, have been removed by per-
colating waters, and their places filled
with copper, which penetrates even the
minute cracks in the hard rhyolite
(quartz porphyry) pebbles. These
old sea-beach conglomerates are now
worked in the Calumet and Hecla, the
Tamarack,theAllouez and other mines.
There are thus mined in this region
three distinct classes of deposits :

Copper Deposits of Keweenaw Point.

I ° Fissure veins.

2° Lava-flows (melaphyrs or

amygdaloids. )
3° Conglomerates.

Conglomerates are known to be old
sea-beach deposits, like those that are
forming along the lake or ocean at the
present time. This is proved by the
rounded and water-worn character of
their pebbles and grains ; by the ob-
served water action on the surface of
the underlying lava-flow; by the fact
that at their base the conglomerates
contain considerable basaltic mud and
pebbles derived from the underlyino^
lava, both of which diminish in amount
or are entirely wanting as the distance

from the underlying trap increases.

That the copper was deposited from
water, with or without electro-chem-
ical action, is shown by the fact of its
being found inclosed entirely in min-
erals known to be formed by water
only; also by its inclosing such min-
erals ; by its being found in discon-
nected or isolated masses in the lavas
and elsewhere; and by its greater
abundance where there are to be seen
the most signs of water action. Had
the copper been def)osited by igneous
agencies, it would have had a channel
or line of passage, and been continu-
ous along that line of passage, while
all the different masses of copper would
have been connected together down-
ward, unless separated by fractures or
faults.

The copper seems to have needed
for its deposition the open spaces of
veins and fissures, and rocks that were
porous and cellular, those whose parts
were easily removed by the percolating
waters, like melaphyrs or the cement-
ing mud of the conglomerates. In
truth, the copper seems to have been
deposited wherever there were found
any places in which to leave it. From
the fact that the copper is generally
found most abundantly under the heavy
lava-flows, and associated with min-
erals evidently the production of the
decomposed lavas, it appears probable
that the copper was once finely dis-
seminated through the lavas and has
since been concentrated by waters per-
colating through them. Had the cop-
per been derived from the sandstones,
then one would suppose that under
them should be found the greatest sup-
ply of copper, but such is not the case.
That the course of the copper was
generally downward is indicated by
the finding of spikes of copper and cal-
cite that extend from one bed down into
others, with the small end downward
like an icicle ; by the fact that when
the copper is not uniformly distributed
throughout the bed or flow that is
mined, it is apt to be more abundant
in the upper portion of it ; and by the
fact that the largest masses of copper

DULUTH, SOUTH SHORE &- ATLANTIC J? AIL WAV.

have usually been found in the upper
portions of the veins.

That the copper was deposited after
the copper-bearing series was com-
plete is shown by the fact that it is
found in fissures extending across the
beds, that could only have been pro-
duced after the beds were in place ;
by the fact that the copper was depos-
ited subsequently to the jointing of
the lavas, owing to its now being found
wrapped around the pieces formed
by jointing, just as paper is wrapped
around a piece of soap ; and by the
extension of the copper from one bed
down into another as a continuous
mass.

The means by which the copper was
concentrated and deposited as native
copper instead of occurring in the
form of the usual copper ores, is an
interesting, and as yet unsolved prob-
lem, that awaits the chemist who is
willing to give his time and attention
to the subject.

The structure of Keweenaw Point
may be then summarized as follows :
A deposit of sandstone overlaid with
lava-flows mingled with more or less
interbedded conglomerates, and finally
overlaid by sandstone. Subsequently
these beds suffered longitudinal and
cross-fracturing and faulting. Later
all were acted upon by percolating
waters, both hot and cold, by which
the rocks were altered to a greater or
less extent, and by which the copper
was concentrated and stored up in
the conglomerates, lavas and veins in
which it is now found.

The above account gives in brief a
general idea of the geology of the
regions touched upon here, as the
writer interprets the facts observed.
He is, however, aware that different
interpretations of the same* facts may
be made by others. He has, therefore,
called special attention to the impor-
tant differences of interpretation, and
he will endeavor to continue the inves-
tigation, and seek only the facts and the
truths to which they point. As in the
question of the iron ores, their origin
has a direct bearing on their amount

and the permanence of the deposit; so,
too, in the copper-bearing rocks, the
question of their relation to the east-
ern sandstone is one of great economic
interest in these days of diamond drills
and deep shafts. One can reacfily see
this when he considers that it involves
the question : Do the copper-bearing
rocks extend out under the eastern
sandstones or not? If they do, their
exploration becomes merely a question
of how great a thickness of sandstone
must be bored through. If they do
not, then the question ought to be
settled by the geologist, if possible, in
order to save waste of money in un-
necessary exploration on the part of
those that are interested in mining.

MINERAL LOCALITIES.

Presque Isle. — Serpentine, galenite,
pyrite, chalcopyrite, dolomite, chalce-
dony, agate, chrysotile, enstatite, dial-
lage and olivine.

Partridge Island. — Agate in nar-
row veins in the gabbro.

Picnic Islands. — Epidote, horn-
blende,

HoLYOKE District. — Galenite.

Mt. Mesnard. — Chalcocite, hema-
tite.

Negaunee. — Hematite, limonite,
gothite, pyrolusite, manganite, psilo-
melane, wad, barite, kaolinite, rhodo-
chrosite, jasper, calcite, quartz.

Ishpeming. — Hematite, limonite,
chlorite, jasper, pyrite, quartz.

Gold Range. — Gold, pyrite, pyrrho-
tite, tourmaline, epidote, molybden-
ite, magnetite, pyroxene, dolomite,
picrolite, verde antique, serpentine,
precious serpentine, chrysotile, talc,
williamsite.

Humboldt. — Ottrelite, tourmaline,
magnetite, hematite, grunerite.

Republic. — Magnetite, hematite,
staurolite, hornblende, garnet.

Champion. — Garnet in chlorite
schist, tourmaline, chloritoid (mason-
ite), hematite, martite, magnetite.

MiCHiGAMME. — Garnet in chlorite
schist, magnetite.

Wetmore, Webster and Beaufort

GEOLOGICAL.

99

Mines. — Limonite in earthy stalactitic
and mammillary forms.

L'Anse. — Graphite, wad, limonite,
pyrite.

Houghton. — Copper, silver, whit-
neyite, domeykite, algodonite, deles-
site, chlorite, quartz, epidote, calcite,
prehnite, laumontite.

Keweenaw Point. — Quartz, calcite,
epidote, prehnite, analcite, laumontite,

datolite, heulaudite, amethyst, cuprite,
apophyllite, chrysocoUa, chalcosite,
chalcopyrite, chabazite, barite, jasper,
azurite, malachite, delessite, chlorite,
wollastonite, etc.

Michigan Mining School,

Houghton, Michigan.

January 23, 1891.

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