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Full text of "American cookery"

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DRIVING OUT THE HIGH-SCHOOL PICKLE 

AMERICAN 
COOKERY 



FORMErRLY 



THE BOSTON 
COOKING SCHOOLMAGAZINEj 

)FCULINARY- SCIENCEand DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS 



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JUNE- JULY, 1914 

Vol. XIX No. 1 












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PUBLISHED 

THE BO>STON COOKING 
iCHODL MAGAZINE C^ 

372BOYLSTONS!. 
BOSTON MASS. 



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For Pure Foods and Household Economy |][/1 

It is essential in the making of raised foods that you choose 
a leavener of known purity and uniform strength — one that 
not only raises the cake, biscuit or mufTin just right, but 
that adds something of nutritious value. 

RUMFORD 

THE WHOLESOME 

BAKING POWDER 

restores in part, the nutritious and health-giving properties of 
which fine wheat flour has been deprived, making all home 
baking more nutritious, more easily digested and of better 
flavor and texture. Furthermore, you cannot help but realize 
a saving in money and material by using Rumford. 

^sk us to mail you, f'eCy copy of ^^ Rumford Home Recipe Book'^ for igi4. 

In additioD to practical and economical recipes, it contains valuable informa- 
tion regarding Fireless and Casserole Cookery. 

RUMFORD CHEMICAL WORKS, Providence, R. 




AUMFDRD 



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An Entirely New Cook Book by Miss Farmer 

NEW BOOK OF COOKERY 

By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

Author of "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book/' Etc. 

With Eiiht Colored Plates and more than Two Hundred Illustrations in Half-Tont 

Cloth, $1.60, net. By mail, $1.75 

Since its original publication, Miss Farmer's **Boston Cooking 
School Cook Book" has, in new editions, incorporated large addi- 
tions, but the wealth of new material — the result of experiments 
in the author's class rooms and embodied in recipes which have 
been thoroughly tested — has grown to such an extent that it has 
become necessary to incorporate it in a separate volume which 
forms an almost indispensable companion to the author's invalu- 
able "Boston Cooking School Cook Book." 

The "New Book of Cookery" contains more than eight hun- 
dred recipes upon all branches, including many new and import- 
ant dishes not to be found in any other work. It is profusely 
illustrated. 

LITTLE, BROWN & CO., Publishers - BOSTON 




American Cookery 



FORMERLV^ 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 
Volume XIX -^ P?^^ 

n 

Junk-July, 1914 — May, 1915 







Published Monthly by 



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THE BOSTON COOKING- SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

372 BoYLSTON Street, Boston, Mass. 



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Copyright, 1914, 1915, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 



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• • • 



♦.:*••• 



COMPLETE INDEX, VOLUME XIX 

June-July, 1914— May, 1915 



Pack 

A Cook Book 466 

Afternoon Tea 444 

Architect's Own Home, An, 111. ... 9 

Aristology — The Art of Dining . . . 512 

Back Door Folks, 111 14 

Bacon's Birthday Dinner 595 

Bennett Hall, Colonial Mansion, 111. 99 

Beth's Unlooked for Crop 282 

Bob, Efficiency Expert 279 

Borrowed Dinner, The 112 

Breakfast Parties ^306 

Camp Cooking, 111 ,• ■ •' ^^^ 

Catering for Family of Twenty-five . 219 

Censoring the Christmas Dinner . . 364 

Capitulation of Aunt Caroline, The . 106 

Centerpieces for All the Year .... 285 

Christmas . .*. ' . . . . 152 

Comforting 603 

Cooking and the Masculine Mind . 361 

Crystal-gazing in the Kitchen .... 114 

Cupid in VeniV)n Stew ^. l^^* 

Cups of RomarKDays, 111 267 

Dressing the Table Board 5^ 

Driving Out the High School Pickle 22 

Each According to His Like .... 135 

Editorials, 30, 118, 206, 286, 366, 446, 526 

606, 686, 766 
Educating Housewives in Economical 

Shopping 464 

Efficiency in the Kitchen 17 

Electricity in a Country Kitchen . . 50 

Elementary Principles of Dietetics 47 

Farm to Table 460 

Fireless, The 221 

Food Combinations 304 

Fresh Vegetables 462 

Fundamental Science, A 763 

Furnishing a Home 140 

Future Party, A 705 

Grace Emmons, Caterer 760 

Guests of Monsieur and Madame . . 201 

Guide to Laundry Work, A. . . 702, 782 

Her Fireless Cooker 785 

His Wife's Party Ill 

Home Ideas and Economies, 57, 144, 223 

307, 388, 468, 545, 626, 707, 787 

House to Live In, A 752 

How Cynthia Spicer Learned to Cook 54 

How Every Man Eats His Rice . . 622 
How the Names of Some Common 

Foods Originated 601 

In Belgium, 111 347 

Inn of the Olden Time 187 

Last Bone in the Cupboard, Tlie . . 197 

Lenten Entertaining 620 

Lesson in Cake Decoration, A . . . 222 
Markets of the Old World .... 441 
Menus, 9, 41, 43, 130, 132, 265, 298, 299 
300, 345, 379, 380, 425, 457, 458 
459, 505, 537, 538, 585, 617, 618 
619. 665, 698, 699, 745, 778, 779 
Menus for Family of Twenty-five . . 218 
Menus for Special Occasions in Oc- 
tober 185 

Menus for Week in October .... 217 

Mr. Sabine's Nephew 680 



Page 

Month at a Brown Nest, A 716 

New Books, 72, 156, 236, 400, 716, 796 

Oldest Food in the World, The . . 541 

Our Daily Bread 44, 133, 381 

Out of Style ^13 

Over the Coffee Cup 539 

Pan— A Villanelle 56 

Prune Industry in United States, The 747 

Religion of Laughter 200 

Resourcefulness of Nina, The .... 205 

Savouries 383 

Silveij Lining, The 718, 798 

Spirit^ of Home, The 756 

Suggestions for Food for Camp ... 97 
Summer Residents Aid to Community 

Life 667 

Sunken Bells, The 523 

Table Etiquette 780 

Talk About Tea, A 517 

The Big Days of Life 437 

The Calories in Cabbage 353 

The English Broadway, 111 270 

The Evolution of Sarah . . . ^. . . . 435 

The Lighting of the Home 587 

The Little Brown House 273 

The Lone Luncheon 624 

The Old-Fashioned Thanksgiving Dinner 301 

The Pie of Her Dreams 591 

TJie Selection of Furniture for Small 

Reception-room, 111 " 427 

Three Valentines 544 

Truffles — The Food of Princes . . . 524 

Twentieth-Century Wall Papers . . . 507 

Two Old Poems of Devon 116 

Unusual Lunch Places 386 

Value of a* Good Seasoning, The . . 700 

War-Time Cost of Food in Paris . . 672 

Wedgewood Teapot. A 195 

When Cook-books Talked ..... 20 

W.hen They Went Clamming .... 520 

Where Did It Go? 278 

Woman's Place -358 

Seasonable Recipes : 

Appetizer, Valentine Day, III. . . . . 529 

Apple Compote with Cream, 111. . . 126 

Asparagus as Peas . ;. 37 

Asparagus, with Hollandaise Sauce . 37 

Bananas, Baked 450 

Bananas, Baked, Belgian Style . . 693 
Beef Cold Corned, with Vegetables, 

111 .• • • • 613 

Beef Tenderloin, Larded, with Ba- 
nanas, 111. 449 

Bluefish. Baked, Potato Stuffing . . 33 

Bluefish, Broiledr . 33 

Bombe Glace, Grape Juice .... 214 

Bombe Glace, Orange and Banana 215 

Bombe Glace, Sicilienne 125 

Bread, Nut, 111 296 

Bread, Orange, 111 453 

Bread, Rye, with Caraway Seed, 111. 693 

Bread, Scotch Short, 111 374 

Broth, Lamb, with Barley and Vege- 
tables 529 



111 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Broth, Lamb, with Rice 769 

Cake, Chocolate Cream. Custard 

Filling, 111 39 

Cake. Chocolate Walnut, 111. ... 374 

Cake, Corn 211 

Cake. Cup, 111 126 

Cake, Cup, with Frosting of Choco- 
late Creams. Ill 214 

Cake, German Coffee, with Al- 
monds. Ill 452 

Cake, Raisin 536 

Cake. White. Chocolate Frosting . IIZ 

Cake, White, for high altitudes . . 40 

Cakes, Cheap 377, 378 

Cakes, Cream, with Chocolate Sauce . 535 

Cakes. Glaced Mocha. Ill 126 

Cakes, Lemon Cheese 297 

Cakes, Small Cream 456 

Cakes. Small Lemon Cream .... 456 

Canapes. Anchovy 689 

Canapes. Goose-Liver 369 

Canapes, Lucile 529 

Canapes. Tongue 609 

Caramels. Walnut. Ill 535 

Carrots, Creamed 614 

Carrots, Glace, wnth Cream .... 615 
Chicken. Fillets of, with Jelly Sauce 291 
Chicken, in Glass Casserole, III. . . 771 
Chicken, Roast, with Sausage Frit- 
ters, 111 289 

Chickens, Fried, with Currant Sauce 122 

Chickens, Panned, with Savorv Rice . 211 

Chou Paste '. . . . 776 

Coupe, St. Jaques. Ill 125 

Coupe, Topo Pino 234 

Cream, Chocolate Macaroon Bava- 
rian, 111 695 

Cream, English 214, 456, 111 

Cream, Marshmallow, 111 Zl'i 

Cream. Prune Bavarian, 111. . '. . . 40 

Croquettes. Macaroni, 111 611 

Croquettes, Potato and Green Corn . 125 

Croustades. with Spinach. 111. ... 36 
Custard, with Macaroons and Snow 

Eggs, 111 616 

Cutlets, Veal with Tomato Sauce . 690 

Delecta or Summer Asparagus, 111. . 294 

Doughnuts, Easter, 111 694 

Dressing. Boiled Salad 534 

Dressing. Bread, for Chicken and 

Veal 123 

Dressmg. French, for String Beans 451 

Dressing, Mayonnaise 452 

D'Uxelles Preparation 121 

Eclairs. Coffee, 111 214 

Egg, Hard-cooked, for Garnish ... 451 

Eggs, a la Jockey Club 610 

Eggs, a la Princess. Ill 610 

Eggs, en Cocotte, with Spinach . . 530 

Eggs, Fried Poached 610 

Eggs. Lorraine Style 530 

Eggs Shirred a la Mornay. 111. . . . 610 

Eggs, with Ham 530 

Essence of Chicken, with Pearls . 689 

Filling, Cream, for Bombe 215 

Finnan Haddie, Garcia 530 

Fish, Fillets of, Marcele Style ... 121 

Fish, Fillets of. Poulette Style, 111. 289 

Frosting, Butter 126 

Frosting. Chocolate, Confectioners . 39 



I'Vosting, Chocolate, Ornamental . 127 

Frosting, Confectioners 126 

Frosting, Fluffy Boiled 774 

Fruit, Salpicon of Fresh 449 

Gnocchi, a la Romaine, III 612 

Gooseberries, Preserved Whole . . 129 
Goose, Roast, with Apple Rings and 

Barberry Sauce, 111 369 

Grapes, Nuts, etc.. Glace, III. . . . 456 

Halibut, Saute, with Salt Pork, III. 769 

Ham, Chaudfroid of. III 35 

Ham, Chaudfroid of, Boiled .... 697 
Ham, Chaufroid of. Chopped, with 

Salad. Ill 450 

Ham. Shredded 530 

Ice Cream. Junket 234 

Icing, Coffee 214 

Jelly, Aspic 294. 451 

Jelly, Barberry 370 

Jelly, Gooseberry 128 

Jelly, Plum-and-Crab Apple 128 

Kohl-rabi. Bechamel Stvle 124 

Kohl-rabi. Creamed. Ill 294 

Kohl-rabi, Fried. Ill 212 

Lamb, Leg of, with Stuffed Tomatoes 290 

Macaroni. Creamed, with Bacon. III. . 611 

Macaroons, Chocolate 695 

Macedoine, Jellied, of Fruit. 111. . . 536 
Mackerel, Spanish, Bordelaise, with 

Tomato Sauce. Ill 770 

Marmalade, Apple, Peach .... 128, 129 

Marmalade, ]\Iock Orange 772 

Marmalade, Orange and Pineapple . . 772 

Marshmallows 374 

^layonnaise of Apples and Dates, 111. 452 

Mayonnaise of Fish, III 121 

Meringue, Glace Panache, III 694 

Meringues 694 

Meringues, with Macedoin , of Fruit. 

111. . 695 

Mint Leaves, Candied. Ill 696 

Mushrooms. Broiled 372 

Noodles, III 210 

Noodles, with Rechaufee of Lamb, III, 210 

Omelet, French 35 

Omelet. Macaroon 612 

Omelet, Puffy, with Green Peas, 111. . 122 
Onions, Creamed in Cronstades, with 

Poached Eggs, 111 36 

Parfait, Banana 215 

Parfait, Divinity or i^Iarshmallow, 111. 216 

Paste, Apricot. Chocolate Dipped. 111. 616 

Paste, Grape juice, Turkish, 111. . . . 376 

Pastry, Fancy for Pies 297 

Patties, Creamed Carrot, 111 614 

Patties, Easy Chicken. Ill 532, 691 

Patties, Nut, 111 697 

Peanut Brittle 697 

Pear Chips 129 

Peppers, Stuffed with Rice and 

Onions, 111 37 

Peppers, Stuffed with Risotto . . ' ' .-.'-^ll 

Pickle, Muskmelon Sweet ; 5 

Pie, Banana :^7 

Pie, Custard, 111 774 

Pie, Mother's Apple, 111 225 

Pie, Mother's Lemon 127 

Pie, Pumpkin, Christmas Stvle . . . 374 

Pie, Pumpkin. Holiday Style, 111. . . 297 

Pie, Vegetable, Southern Style . . . 771 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Pies, Little Khubarb. with Lattice 

Tops, 111 775 

Pies, Little Lemon, with Meringue, 111. 775 
Pies. Individual Lemon Sponge (with 

filling) 776 

Pies, Small Lamb, 111 34 

Pork, Loin of Roasted, 111 530 

Potatoes, Grilled Sweet 373 

Potatoes, Suzette Style, 111 532 

Pudding, Canned Berr}- 297 

Pudding, Cornstarch 297 

Pudding, Frozen 802 

Pudding, Old English Plum, 111. . . 373 
Puffs, Boston Cream, with Straw- 
berries T^"^ 

Puffs, German, with Strawberries, 111. 39 

Puffs, Ginger 773 

Queen, Lemon 774 

Raisine 129 

Rice, Savory, for Panned Chicken . 212 

Rice, Savorv. wath Sausage. 111. ... 531 

Roast, Standing Rib, 111 209 

Rolls and Sticks. French, 111 615 

Salad, Apple, Celerv-and-Green Pep- 
per, 111 370 

Salad, Celerv-and-Apple '. . 530 

Salad, Chicken. Vanderbilt Style ... 534 

Salad, Cream Cheese, for Easter, 111. 693 

Salad, Cress-and-Escarole, 111 771 

Salad, Egg, Easter Style, 111 692 

Salad, Fish in Cucumber, 111 770 

Salad, French, Endive and Cress, 111. . 693 

Salad, Ginger Ale, 111 38 

Salad, Jellied Vegetable, Surprise, 111. 533 

Salad, Macedoine of Vegetable .... 38 

Salad, Panama, 111 614 

Salad, Potato, 111 212, 6^2 

Salad, Spinach, Sausage-and-Egg, 111. 451 

Salad, Tango, with Dressing, 111. . . . 296 

Salad, Valentine, 111 535 

Salad, Vanderbilt, 111 534 

Sally Lunn, Quick 534 

Salmon, Braised, 111 449 

Salmon, Oregon Baked 371 

Sandwiches, Adelaide 455 

Sandwiches. Checkerboard, 111. . . . 453 

Sandwiches, Cheese and Nut ^ .... 454 

Sandwiches, Cheese and Pimiento . . 454 

Sandwiches, Edam Cheese 455 

Sandwiches, Open, 111 615 

Sandwiches, Open, No. 2, 111 615 

Sandw-iches, Open, Cracker 454 

Sandwiches. Orange-Bread 454 

Sandwiches, Rolled Cress, 111 454 

Sandwiches, Surprise 454 

Sausages. Pecan Nut Meat, 111 609 

Sauce, Chaudfroid 294, 451 

Sauce, Currant Jelly 292 

Sauce, Hollandaise 295 

Sauce, Marrow^ 372 

Sauce, Mock Hollandaise 212 

Sauc. Perigueux 122 

S' Poivrade 450 

: for Roast Beef 210 

S. Tartare 452 

Sau- e. Tomato 34 

Sa-^e, with Panned Chickens .... 211 

Scones, 111 38 

Shad. Baked, Belgian Style 690 

Sherbet, Lemon 126 



Sherbet, Peach, Royal 125 

Shortcakes, Individual Strawberry, 111. Ill 
Shortcakes, Individual Strawberrv, 

City Style, III ". Ill 

Slaw, Hot (Cabbage) 124 

Souffle, Cheese 612 

Souffle, Potato 124, 373 

Soup, Beef, from Remnants of Roast- 
Beef 209 

Soup, Carrot 289 

Soup, Cream of Lima Bean 609 

Soup, from Remnants of Roast Goose 369 

Soup, Green Pea .... - 769 

Soup, Onion in Petite Marmites . . . 689 

Soup, Potato 690 

Souvaroft', Small, 111 455 

Spinach and Eggs in Ramekins, 111. . . 771 

Sponge, Tapioca and Pineapple, 111. . 375 

Sponge, Tapioca and Date IIZ 

Sprouts, Brussels, w-ith Butter .... 291 

Steak, Mock Beef 610 

Steak, Sirloin, Carte Blanche, 111. . . . 371 

Stew, Lamb 34 

String Beans. Ragout of, a la Bretonne 36 

Stuffing, Potato 371 

Tart, Peach 802 

Tarts, Strawberry, 111 Ill 

Tartlets, Banana 774 

Timbale, Ham, with Peas, 111 613 

Toast, Mock Crab 371 

Tomatoes, Canned whole. 111 295 

Tomatoes, Stuft"ed, Duxelles 372 

Veal Ragout of and Onions, 111. . . 292 

Veal, Rolled Fillets of, \\\t\\ Tomatoes 123 

Veal, Stuffed Shoulder of 293 

Queries and Answers : 

Almond Cream Filling 312 

Almond Sticks 312 

Almond Fondant 312 

Apple Butter, Old-fashioned 392 

Apples, Scalloped 473 

Baba 474 

Bar-le-duc 636 

Bars, Fig, with Fig Paste 634 

Beans, Baked, Spanish Fashion ... 232 

Beans, Boston Baked 232 

Beef, Frizzled 474 

Beef. Special Cuts of 314 

Beefsteak Dinner 314 

Biscuit Clover-leaf 550 

Biscuits, Sour Cream 152 

Boudins. Timbales, etc 710 

Bread, Dark Graham 473 

Bread, Dark Nut 471 

Bread, Noisette 311 

Bread, Nut or Noisette 631 

Bread, Recipe for Two Loaves, White 710 

Bread, Sticks 472 

Brine, for Pickling Meats 398 

Brittle, Peanut 312 

Broth Oyster 234 

Brownies, Chocolate 312 

Bubbles on Timbale Cases 553 

Buns, Philadelphia Butter 64 

Cabbage, Stuffed 395 

Cake, Almond 230 

Cake, Angel Food 634 

Cake, Apple Sauce 230 

Cake, Caramel, 473 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cake, Caramel, with Frost in;.^" ... 230 

Cake, Currant 550 

Cake, Gold . 475 

Cake, Ice Cream 634 

Cake, Mocha, with Frosting 472 

Cake, Nut 311 

Cake. Old Election^ 552 

Cake, Spice with Coffee 227 

Cake, Sponge with Potato Flour . . . 472 

Cake, Standard White Layer .... 711 

Cake, Sunshine 790 

Cake, Swedish Sponge 228 

Cake, Two- Egg Graham Cracker . . . 228 

Cake, Velvet 311 

Cakes. White Layer 62 

Cakes. Buckwheat Griddle 636 

Cakes. Fruit and Nut 392 

Cakes. Small 794 

Cakes. Small Cream 392 

Calf's Head. Cooking of 471 

Canning. Latest Methods of 711 

Caramels. Curdled 553 

Catsup, Tomato 232 

Chairs at Dining-tablc 549 

Cheese-Cakes, Apple 712 

Chicken a la King 553 

Chowder, Kornlet 632 

Consomme and Bouillon 792 

Cookies. Honey 394 

Cooking at High Altitudes 150 

Coupe, Topo Pino 551 

Crabapples. Spiced Pickled 227 

Crabflakes, in Shells, Creole 554 

Crescents. Almond 392 

Cup Cakes, Flour in 549 

Dinner, Boiled, New England .... 230 

Dishes, Combination for Card Parties 714 

Dressing, Russian .Salad . . 148, 154, 632 

Dressing, Sour Cream Salad 152 

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad . . 154 

Duff. Cherry, with Sauce 391 

Egg- Plant. Grilled 474 

Eggs, Composition of 552 

Eggs, For Breading Cutlets, etc. . . . 552 

Eggs, Interchange of Yolks and Whites 551 

Filling Chocolate . 228, 398 

Filling Chocolate, for Cream Pie ... 711 

Filling for Chocolate Cake 553 

Flour, Pastry 553 

Flour, Pastry and "all round"' .... 794 

Fondant. Latest Method ...".... 394 

Fondant. For Frosting 396 

Foods, Ten, Largely Starch 227 

Foods, Ten, Rich in Proteid 227 

Foods, Ten, Largely Fat 228 

Frosting. Divinity 62 

Frosting, Soft Chocolate 711 

Garnish for Crown Roast of Lamb . 147 

Gingerbread, Hard and Soft . . . 472, 473 

Gingham and Chambray 792 

Ham, Fried 792 

Honey, in Salad Dressing 394 

Ice-Cream, Junket 551 

Ice-Cream, Vanilla Custard 711 

Joes, Brownbread 632 

Lemon Queens 154 

Luncheon for Bride 148 

Luncheon, Suggestions for Pink and 

Green 551 

Marmalade, Amber 632 



Marmalade, Amber-and-Orange . . . 314 

Marmalade, Strawberry-and-Pineapple 791 

Marzipan, Crown Princess 552 

Menu, Choice, for One Hundred Men 64 

Menu, Young Man at Work 234 

Meringue, Adams House 396 

Meringue, for Lemon Pie 790 

Mincemeat, without Meat 473 

Molasses, Substitute for 152 

Mousse, Hot Chicken 147 

Muffins. Squash 227 

Nougat, French 391 

Onions, Fried 63 

Onions, Scalloped 228 

Pans, Size for Baking 475 

Pastry, Shrinking of, in Baking ... 791 

Peanuts, Salted 791 

Peel, Candied Grape Fruit 549 

Peppers, Canned 712 

Piccalilli 232 

Pickle. Mixed Mustard 311 

Pie, Blueberry, with Meringue .... 148 

Pie, Undercrust of Custard 792 

Pies, Individual Chicken 636 

Plunkets 794 

Potato Nests 147 

Potatoes, Baked or Boiled 474 

Potatoes, Curdled Escalloped 791 

Pudding, Angel, Royal Sauce .... 396 

. Pudding, Baked Indian 230 

Puffs, Cream 791 

Puree, Peanut 312 

Recipes, Regarding Marmalade .... 712 

Rhubarb, Canning, Conserve 154 

Roll, Chocolate Cream 62 

Salad, Chicken Jelly 63 

Salad, Currant Jelly-and-Pecan Nut . 391 

Salads, Quickly Prepared 63 

Sandwiches, Filling for . 631 

Sandwiches, Ham and Chicken, Cheese 

and Crabflake, Pimiento and Cheese 391 

Sandwiches, Quickly Prepared .... 63 

Sauce, Bechamel 147 

Sauce, Marshmallow 790 

Sauce, Vinaigrette 794 

Scallops, Roulette 710 

Scrapple, Philadelphia 549 

Sea Fish, Slices of 794 

Sherbet, Raspberry Milk 62 

Snaps, Ginger 790 

Souffle, Almond 392 

Soup Made of Meat, Use of 62 

Soup, Peanut 312 

Squabs en Casserole 148 

Steak, Broiled-and-Stuffed 152 

Stew. Oyster . 792 

Substitutes for Baking Powder .... 554 

,Sugar, Confectioners' and Powdered . 550 

Sugar, Use of 551 

Sundaes ............... 790 

Syrup for Fruit in Pastries 712 

Svrups, Adulteration of 792 

Table Customs 314 

Tomatoes, Scalloped with Green Pepper 631 

Use of Ham Fat . . . . 154 

Vol-au Vent. Orange 634 

W^afers, Honey 394 

Wafers, Poinsettia 392 

Waffles, Crisp 553 

W^elsh Rabbit 631 



VI 



American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



JUNE-JULY, 1914 



No. 1 



An Architect's Own Home 



By Charles Vaughn Boyd 



ONE is often prone to bemoan the 
dearth of really meritorious 
small houses; yet the cause of 
this lamentable lack is not difficult to 
discover. In the first place, many archi- 
tects really do not care to design small 
houses for clients, because of the pro- 
portionately low fees; secondly, many 
people in building a small house do not 
engage an architect, thinking his services 
superfluous, except for larger homes. 

In the designing of his own home, 
however, an architect finds thoroughly 
congenial occupation — a recreation al- 
most, because the whims of clients and 
the amount of fees do not enter into his 
consideration. It is scarcely strange, 
then, that some of the most attractive 
small houses of today are owned and 
occupied by their creators. Such a home, 
its interior eloquent of compact comfort, 
its exterior strikingly homelike, is shown 
in the accompanying illustrations. 

For the construction of the house, 
frame was used throughout, thereby 
materially reducing the cost. The ex- 
terior surface of the first story walls is 
plastered over metal lath. In color, this 
plaster is a cool gray-white, which furn- 
ishes an effective foil for the quiet green 
shade applied to all the exterior trim. 
The ''weathered" shingle roof is of the 
perennially-popular gambrel type, giving 
a satisfactory ceiling height for the 
rooms on the second floor. Instead of 
separate dormer windows on the front 
and rear elevations, use is made of "con- 



tinuous" dormers, which add consider- 
ably both to the second floor area and to 
the attractiveness of the external design. 

Inevitably a house presents unpleasant 
angularities of construction, if the sur- 
rounding grounds are not artistically 
planted. Here, there is a very pleasing 
disposal of vines, shrubbery, and trees — 
framing the house, and robbing it of any 
harshness of outline. 

A wide porch, screened in summer and 
glazed in winter, extends across the en- 
tire front of the house. From this porch, 
the main entrance admits to a large, well- 
lighted, square hall — the walls of which 
are hung with an unusual, two-toned 
brown paper, that is very appropriate 
with the warm brown-stained chestnut 
woodwork. At the rear are two doors, 
one opening to a commodious coat-closet, 
the other to a passage, communicating 
with the kitchen, and with the side- 
entrance beneath the stair-landing. At 
the left, a wide, cased-opening connects 
the hall with the living room, in which 
the walls are hung with golden-brown 
canvas. 

Of architectural features in the living 
room, the bookcases cunningly built in 
under the wide casings of the windows, 
the deep baywindow with its generous 
seat, and the fireplace, are of chief inter- 
est. The treatment of the over-mantel 
is especially good. A beautiful forest 
scene, painted in soft tones of green, 
gold, and brown upon wood, is inset in 
the simple wood paneling; and upon the 



11 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



mantelshelf is inscribeil in Old ]{nu:lish 
letterino^ that appropriate legend ; 

"Stay, stay at home. tii> heart, ami rest ; 
Hoiuekeeping hearts are happiest. 
For those that waiuler they know not where, 
Are full of trouble ami of care; 
To stay at home is best." 

The dinini^" room is so intimately con- 
nected with the living room, that the 
walls have been treated in a similar man- 
ner with golden-brown canvas. A cor- 
ner china-closet, with doors of leaded 
glass and fittings of hammered copper, 
is the central point of interest in the 
room ; although the windows upon two 
sides, affording delightful garden views, 
are an important asset. 

For a small house, the service depart- 
ment is especially well-handled; as, in 
its equipment, no essential to comfort or 
convenience is omitted. The pantry is 
unusually large ; and, opening from it. 
additional space is afforded by a closet. 



The rear entry is so arranged, that the 
refrigerator occupying one end may be 
iced from a small side window, thus sav- 
ing unnecessary tracking through the 
kitchen. 

On the second floor, economy of space 
has resulted from the presence of only 
one staircase and from the elimination 
of unnecessary hall-area. 

The owners' suite is formed by the 
two front bedrooms, where the wood- 
work and the furniture are stained forest 
green, and the walls hung with neutral- 
toned, self-figured paper. In the larger 
room, the window-alcove has a built-in 
seat, with a hinged cover and a cedar 
lining, to permit the storage of wearing 
apparel. A gown-closet is still another 
useful adjunct of the room. 

In the guest room, the maid's room, 
and in the upper hall, the woodwork is 
stained gray-brown, the walls being 
papered in harmonizing tones. Ivory 




INTERESTING MANTEL IN LIVING-ROOM 



AN ARCHITECT'S OWN HOME 



13 



enamel and white tiling create that im- 
maculately sanitary appearance so desir- 
able in a bathroom. 

The third floor, which is accessible by 
means of a closed stairway, is unfinished ; 
but it provides a very useful storage 
space — always of more importance in a 
small house than in a large one. 

One frequent cause of failure, both in 
the designing and the furnishing of 
small houses, is the striving for grandiose 



effects. The aim should, instead, be for 
absolute simplicity — a simplicity ex- 
pressed in strong, direct lines, in quiet 
colors, in restfully uncrowded spaces. 
Only thus can a small house attain that 
superlative measure of attractiveness 
and comfort which so pervades, without 
and within, the inviting little home here 
described and portrayed. 

Editor's Private Note. — Cost approximately 
$5000.00, without site. 





F'-mST FLOOR 



SECOND FLOOR 



Out of Style 



When, to follow old Dame Fashion, 
Women have a senseless passion 
For a garb that's both indecent 

And grotesque — 
One that sets the men to staring, 
And to blushing or to swearing, 
And to making them a subject 

For burlesque — 
Then, methinks, 'tis time to falter, 
(If we cannot fashions alter) 
And to ponder and consider 

For awhile. 
If it be not wiser, better. 
Neater, sweeter and completer. 
Just to be, in dress, a little 

Out of style. 



When we see the home-life suffer 
By the fads that some run after — 
Women's Clubs, the suffrage meeting 

Or the play, 
When the hand of woman raises 
To her lips the cup that dazes, 
Because she hasn't courage 

To say "Nay," 
Then, methinks, 'tis time to falter, 
(If we cannot customs alter) 
And to ponder and consider 

For a while. 
If it be not nobler, purer. 
More womanly and truer. 
Just to be, in ways, a little 

Out of style. 

Lucia Wells Fames. 



Back Door Folk 



Bv M. B. s. 



FREDA LORING is the most in- 
vestigative and original girl I have 
ever known. When, therefore, I 
heard one morning that, dispensing with 
all orange-blossom preliminaries, she had 
become a bride, a housewife, and my 
next door neighbor, all in one day, 1 
knew that our old drowsy, conventional 
street had some eye-opening experiences 
in store for it. I knew that Freda's 
neighborliness would not be as the neigh- 
borliness of us others was, and I knew 
that Freda's first year of housekeeping 
would not be a thing of slowdy fading 
rose colors, but "a revolutionary evolu- 
tion"" enlivened w-ith astounding and ad- 
venturous excursions into the unexplored 
romances of a housekeeper's life. Where 
she was to adventure and what she 
would find in the prosaic domestic rou- 
tine of our quiet street, I could not 




THE FISHMAX 



imagine. But I had mountainous faith. 

Business took me south the very day 
that she arrived and it w^as a month be- 
fore I returned and made my first call. 
I ''ran in"' right after breakfast. Freda 
herself came to the door. In the midst 
of our enthusiastic greetings, she said 
suddenly, looking over my shoulder: 
"There goes your calendar!" 

I turned, mystified. But all that I 
could see was my cat walking demurely 
down the steps of my front porch. 

''I had forgotten it was Friday", 
added Freda, watching the cat frisk 
across the sidew^alk and seat herself in 
the middle of the road. 

''Friday — my calendar — my cat ! What 
are you gibbering about?" I demanded. 

Freda looked at me in questioning 
surprise. "Do you mean that you don't 
know that for five years she has been 
going out every Friday morning to meet 
Mr. Grant?" She was amazed. 

"And who is Mr. Grant?" I demanded 
tartly. I jealously adore my cat, and I 
was not at all pleased by this suggestion 
of a long-continued clandestine attach- 
ment on her part. "W'ho is Mr. Grant?" 

"Mr. Robinson S. Grant — he delivers 
fish for the Metropolitan Market every 
Friday'', said Freda. 

"Oh, the fishman !" This was what 
"Mr. Grant" had been to me for five 
years, coming to my back door every 
Friday morning, winter and summer — 
the fishman — an automaton that asked 
for, recorded and supplied, almost me- 
chanically, the order that I gave. The 
fishman — it had never even remotely oc- 
curred to me that he was anything more. 
And here, it seems, he had a name — 
and must have had it, furthermore, 
through all those five years of our pe- 
riodic intercourse. And a name that, for 
some reason or other, siiddenly individ- 
ualized him for me for all time to come. 



14 



BACK DOOR FOLK 



15 




THE Gl^oCER 

\\'ith a word, Freda had transformed 
that vague, barren, Friday generalization 
of ''the fishman" into the most interest- 
ing thing in the whole world: "a human 
being.'' 

"He is going to speak this evening 
before the Woman's Club — it meets with 
me — you must come over,'' Freda ran 
on, heedlessly piling Pelions on my Ossa 
of astonishment. 

"I have started a new Woman's Club 
here. I tried my best to drag the Pierian 
out of the pre-Christian renaissance, or 
whatever they call their 'art' afternoons, 
but they refused unanimously to budge 
past Titian and Shakespeare. I wanted 
to discuss refrigerated foods ! 

"The new club has fifty members al- 
ready, and Mr. Grant has consented to 
talk to us to-night on '^listakes that 
Housekeepers ]^Iake in Ordering'. His 
ambition, you know, is to open a large 
fish-market of his own in a couple of 
years, and he is studying his business 
enthusiastically from ever}- angle. He 
is going to make a success of it. too, for 



he not onl\- knows fish, but human na- 
ture. He can size up a customer with 
a look. He knows in an instant whether 
you are the kind of a person with com- 
mon sense enough to appreciate advice 
from an honest expert or not. H you 
are, he offers it. 

"There he is now — see him feeding 
your pussy cat." And Freda tripped out 
to give her order. 

I sat down on the first available bit of 
furniture to collect and rearrange my 
wits. They were completely shattered. 
^ly fishman was to address the Woman's 
Club to-night in Freda's parlor! I tried 
to imagine him ringing the bell and com- 
ing in the front door as Mr. Robinson 
S. Grant, "even as you and I" ; but I 
couldn't. I could only see him in his 
colored shirt and overalls, standing bare- 
headed and deferential before me, with 
pencil poised to take my order, impas- 
sive, automatic, silent, save for his regu- 
lar weekly comment on the weather, 
which, too, seemed as mechanical as the 
strokes of his swift moving pencil. Xo, 




THE BAKER 



lo 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



m\ iniaginaliun, cluUoil by my uiuhinking 
acceptance of class distinctions, was quite 
unable to escort Mr. Robinson S. Grant 
in through Freda's front door. 

Then, 1 perceived that all my world of 
folk was divided into two kinds: front 
door folk and back door folk. And that 
my home, the home of my ancestors, 
stood between the two divisions, keeping 
the goats and the sheep carefully apart. 

I am modern enough and American 
enough not to be entirely pleased with 
the full realization of this commonplace 
discovery. Neither was I pleased with 
the recollection that Mr. Robinson S. 
Grant had never, on any occasion, prof- 
fered me anv advice on my weekly order 
of fish. 

I began to be pricked with doubts as 
to my attitude (which I had all my life 
subconsciously enjoyed) of superiority 
toward back door folk. It was barren 
at best. It would, certainly, never have 
procured a speaker for the Woman's 
Club. What else had it lost? 

At this moment I noticed a wagon 



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^r -^^ ^W^ ' 








Wi^ 


^1 


*, .'^■^^^^^^^^^^Bb Wk 


1^ ipl 



THE MILKMAN 



marked "Lawton & Thomas, Groceries 
and Provisions", drive past, and I had 
just begun to wonder what Freda had 
gleaned from her month's trading there, 
when she returned. 

"I suppose you'll be surprised to hear 
that I'm almost a suffragist", she began, 
"converted in Dortville, too. It was 
your Mr. Benson who started me." 

*'Did he !" I exclaimed, knowing by a 
sudden flash of intuition that "my Mr. 
Benson" must be the Law^ton & Thomas 
driver on my route. 

"When I found that he had lived in 
Colorado before he came to w^ork for 
Lawton & Thomas", Freda continued, 'T 
asked him last election day what he 
thought about w^omen's voting. And 
what do you think he said? T know it's 
a good thing for the men. You ought 
to see the difiference between the Colo- 
rado men going to the polls and some of 
the men I noticed this morning. In my 
little town men brushed up to vote — put 
on a clean shirt — the poorest of them — 
for election. We went with our wives 
and daughters and wanted to look right. 
And I believe that's a step toward want- 
ing to think right'. 

"Of course, I couldn't keep him talk- 
ing while he was on his grocery route", 
said Freda, "so I went right upstairs 
and telephoned Mrs. Benson and asked 
her to come over to lunch with me and 
tell me all about how it changes a woman 
to have the vote. Wasn't it splendid to 
have such an authentic chance? To get 
the facts first hand? She came, and she 
told me such interesting things ! We are 
going to make a series of articles out of 
them for the Dortville News. She will 
contribute the facts and I the writing, 
and the editor has actually agreed to pay 
us for them !'' 

\\'hen I left Freda an hour later, I 
had learned something interesting about 
every one of our back door folks. She 
had known them only a month, yet her 
instinct for humanness, if I can so de- 
fine it, was so strong that in that short 
time she had not only learned something 



EFFICIEXXY IX THE KITCHEX 



of the personal story of each individual, 
but had seen a way to bring him into 
wider touch with the community in 
which he lived. Robinson S. Grant, 
from being -the nameless fishman on my 
departure for the South, was known to- 
day to every wide-awake woman on our 
side of the town, and was given that 
respect accorded to every man who 
knows any one thing well. The wife of 
one of Lawton & Thomas's delivery 
men, from being an ignored or unknown 
stranger from the West, had become 
joint, author of "those clever woman 
articles running in The X^ews" ; and our 



milkman (who had always had "his own 
ideas", but because of competition could 
not afford to carry them out, so that we 
were still, among other unsanitar}- things, 
getting pur milk in tin cans) had becon** 
chairman of a lively committee that was 
keeping the city council busy with 
schemes for enforcing pure municipal 
milk. 

And I saw why Freda had been able 
to do all this. Because, figuratively 
speaking, her heme had only one door, 
and through it every one, who in any 
way touched her life, must enter and go 
out alike. 



Efficiency in the Kitchen 

Bv W. B. Stoddard 



IT has become more and more recog- 
nized of late years that there is a 
good way and a poor way of doing 
house-keeping, just as any other line of 
work. \^arious attempts have been made 
to systematize the labor of the house- 
wife, but it was not until efficiency man- 
agers had revolutionized office and fac- 
tory that an efficiency mistress appeared 
and demonstrated that there is as much 
science in running a house as a business. 
The woman who evolved this great 
idea is Mrs. Christine Frederick, who 
established the Applecroft Experiment 
Station, at Greenlawn, L. L She also 
wrote a book upon the subject, but the 
real worth of her theories was never 
fully appreciated until her model kitchen 
and laundry w^ere shown in operation at 
the Efficiency Exposition in New York 
City early in April. 

The word ''efficiency" frightens a great 
many women, who imagine that the nec- 
essary equipment is expensive and com- 
plicated, and that theor\' and practice 
cannot go hand in hand. Of course there 
are utensils in Mrs. Frederick's kitchen 



ihat are not found in that of the aver- 
age housewife, but that is owing to the 
short-sightedness of the mistress, or 
probably to her ignorance of their ad- 
vantage. The man of the house, be he 
farmer or banker, keeps himself sup- 
plied with all the latest devices that will 
assist him in his work, knowing that any 
tool that enables him to save time or 
accomplish his task more effectively will 
pay for itself in a short time. Woman, 
more conservative, clings to the dust-pan, 
the scrubbing brush and the dish-cloth of 
her mother and grandmother, and then 
wonders why she ages more rapidly than 
her husband. 

The saving of needless steps is the 
first principle of Mrs. Frederick's plan 
for the conserv^ation of energy. She in- 
sists that there should be no hap-hazard 
arrangement of the furniture — the ice- 
box in the far corner because it best fits 
there — the sink wherever the plumber 
has seen fit to place the pipes — the stove 
ditto, on account of pipe connections. 
These items should be considered care- 
fullv in the beginning. 



18 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



All food preparation starts from the 
ice-box. This should be built in the wall 
whenever possible, so that the ice man 
can put in the ice without ever entering 
the kitchen. Many countn* housekeepers 
will hold up their hands in horror at the 
expense. "We've always kept the ice- 
box on the porch, and that was sufficient 
to keep the iceman from tracking up the 
kitchen floor." But does the utterer of 
these words realize the energy- expended 
in going back and forth between porch 
and kitchen for ever\ article wanted 
from the refrigerator? And, moreover, 
does she realize the waste of ice, due to 
the much higher temperature in which 
the ice box stands outside? 

Assuming that she has seen the wis- 
dom of having a modem ice receptacle, 
the next item to be considered is the 
kitchen cabinet. Here again conser\-- 
atism must be combatted — though for- 
tunately not to such an extent as for- 
merly. "W hy. I've always had a big 
pantr>- to keep my things in, and I'd feel 
squeezed to death with evervthing jvmi- 
bled together in a cupboard." But 
ever>-thing is not "jumbled together" in 
the ui>-to-date cabinet. There is the 
maximvun of ease with the minimum of 
space — the flour bin. the sugar box, the 
bread box (mouse proof), drawers for 
canned goods, cutler\-, milk tickets, cook 
book, small change; revolving rack for 
condiment jars, sliding shelf for pots and 
pans, rolling pin rack, utensil hooks, 
cutting board — ever\'thing that one 
needs, without the necessity of moving 
from her place. 

After preparation of the food the next 
step is cooking, so close to the cabinet 
stands the tireless-cooking gas range with 
its hood attachment. The cost of this 
range is about $95.00, and though it may 
appear expensive, the immense saving in 
fuel soon places it in the class of money 
savers. For example, a roast is placed 
in the oven and heat applied for about 
twelve minutes. The gas is then turned 
off, and at the expiration of thirty min- 
utes the oven door is opened and the 



meat foimd done to a turn. The hood 
attachment is used for foods prepared 
on top of the stove — cereals, v^etables 
and the like. Heat is applied for about 
five minutes, or until the boiling point is 
reached, then the hood is dropped until 
it rests finnly on the top of the stove, 
the gas extinguished, and the cooking 
finished without trouble or expense. In 
the efficiency kitchen the oven is waist 
high, thus doing away with the constant 
stooping, always so burdensome in the 
old st>-le stoves. 

The last step in tlie preparation of food 
is the ser\-ing table. This has a metal 
top. making it easy to clean. 

The cabinet, the range and the serving 
table, aU stand in a row on one side of 
the room, so there is no crossing and re- 
crossing, taking the thousand and one 
unnecessar>- steps so often due to fault) 
placing of the furniture. 

After the ser\ing comes tlie harder 
part — the clearing away. ^lany a woman 
sighs. *T don't mind getting the dinner, 
but the everlasting dish-washing that 
comes after it." Even in this age of 
efficiency one cannot say "presto, 
change" and have it done, but ^Irs. 
Frederick shows how many of the dis- 
agreeable features can be eliminated. To 
begin with, a wheeled tray is used to con- 
vey the dishes from the dining room to 
the sink. The dishes are all piled on 
this at once, thus doing away with the 
endless trips back and forth carrying a 
few dishes at a time. 

On the side of the room opposite the 
sening equipment is placed the cleaning 
up furniture. The dishes are borne at 
once to the combined sink and dish- 
washer. Into the latter the wire dish 
strainer fits securely, and in this -is 
placed the china and glassware. The 
water is then turned on, the strainer 
given a rotar>- motion and the dishes are 
thoroughly flushed. The strainer is then 
lifted out and the china placed, without 
dr\-ing, on the op>en shelves along the 
kitchen wall, these open shelves having 
been found to be m.ore sanitan- than the 



JUNES 



19 



closed cabinet, besides much more easy 
of access. Nothing has yet been found 
to take the place of the actual cleaning 
of the pots and pans, but a wooden 
scraper and a handled mop make unnec- 
essary' much actual contact with the 
soiled utensils. 

Of course, all the dishes are thor- 
oughly scraped before being placed in 
the strainer or dishpan, and for this 
purpose a small table is placed just to 
the right of the dishwasher. In this is 
cut a circular hole and the garbage pail 
stands beneath, so that all the parings 
and scrapings drop naturally into it, the 
dish meanwhile resting on the table. 

Last of all, one of the most practical 
of the new inventions, and especially 
valuable to city housewives, is the incin- 
erite. Constructed on the principle of 
a cremator}', all garbage, either wet or 
dr>', is dumped therein and in a short 
time reduced to a fine powder. By this 
useful little invention the foul smelling, 
fly-inviting, disease-breeding garbage can 
is done away with altogether, and the 
cost is as nothing compared with the 
satisfaction the mistress feels in the 
elimination of this bane of her life. 

The walls, instead of being papered, 
are covered with sanitas wall covering. 
This has a woven cloth foundation and 
comes in many artistic designs, as well 



as the plain, and probably more scnricc- 
able patterns. It will not tear or fade, 
like wall paper, and is readily deaned 
with a damp cloth, so that it always pre- 
sents a fresh appearance. 

The floor is covered with linoleum, 
preferably of a dull brown, tfaoog^ it 
may be had in many inlaid designs, if 
something more fancy is desired. This, 
like the wall, may be wiped t^ daify — 
a much easier and more sanitary method 
than the old process of sweeping — which 
took the dust from the floor, only ^r^ ^f^- 
posit it on the walls and furniture 

The indirect limiting syston is eia- 
ployed. Xo ligjit strikes the eye directly, 
but the gleam is diflFused about the room, 
giving an even distribution of h^tt and 
casting dark shadows nowhere. 

Mere decorations are out of place in a 
kitchen as in any well ordered work- 
shop. If a spot of color is desired, noth- 
ing is better than a growing plant or 
two, a hardy red geranium, for exan^e. 

In concluding the description of tiiis 
practical and scientific kitchen I think 
nothing could be better than a quotation 
from Mrs. Frederick herself: 

"Efficiency does not mean superfluous 
and costly equipment. It means the f%jbt 
tool, in perfect condition, placed sden- 
tificaDy; the right plan, plus an efficient 
attitude of mind bv the worker." 



Junes 



i 



God has more Junes to give away — 
There is not any need to weep 
June's going. Though we cannot keep 

Our Jmie — whatever Dotibc maj say, 
God has more Jnnes. 

God has 
With a.- , ,-. :, 
In jocund way. 



'".-A has mo; 
In scented 
Enough to 

For sweetne- 

r ■ 



When Cook Books Talked 



By Mary F. Nuttorf 



THE House-wife was busy in her 
kitchen, as housewives should be, 
when she heard strange sounds 
from the drawer in the kitchen-cabinet. 
It was not a mouse, nor yet a buzzing fly, 
for The House-wife was very proper 
and had no such things in her kitchen. 
It was real voices, and it came from 
among the cook-books. The House-wife 
sank into a chair, held her doughy hands 
away from her spotless apron, and list- 
ened, breathlessly. 

Now there were cook-books galore in 
that drawer, from grandmother's stained 
and worn one to a new one that said 
"Chafing Dish Dainties" on the cover. 

"I wonder why she keeps me," sighed 
the Old, Old Book. ''She never uses me 
any more. I used to be such a delight to 
her grandmother. O, the mince pies, 
apple dumplings, meat puddings, fried 
cakes, pound cakes, pickles, and cobblers 
she used to make by my rules. People 
eat such queer things now-a-days." 
"Don't you know you are out of date?" 
asked a book called, ''How to Use Vege- 
table Oils." "The human stomach can- 
not digest animal fat." 

This was exasperating to the Old, Old 
Book, and it retorted, "There isn't a soul 
in this house as healthy and happy as 
any member of her grandmother's fam- 
ily." Now the Old, Old Book could not 
be denied, since it was the only one who 
had been there in those old days, so by 
way of further argument, a book called, 
"Miss Salad and Her Trousseau," spoke 
up and asked, "Did this old-fashioned 
woman know the possibilities of a few 
fresh vegetables, nuts and mayonnaise?" 
"Fresh vegetables? Well, I can see 
them now swinging over the fire. Some 
were cooked with a piece of sweet salt 
pork from the smoke-house, and oh, how 
hungry everybody was just to get a 
whiff. And nuts, never did Saturday 



come, from October to April, that the 
children didn't crack a huge basketful to 
eat on Sunday. They had such jolly 
times picking out the meats, and they 
used horse-nails. How well I remember 
their hiding their nails, so that when the 
basket was brought out, everyone was 
ready to pick, unless he was careless 
enough to forget where he had put his 
nail, and then he w^as chafifed by the 
others. Children now are so extravagant 
and difficult to entertain." 

This was altogether too homely a vis- 
ion for "Miss Salad and Her Trous- 
seau," so she did not refer to the mayon- 
naise. 

Then a much fussed up little book in 
a white cover, tied with green ribbons, 
water color sketches through its pages, 
and called "Frozen Dainties," asked, 
"Do your pages tell how^ to prepare a 
mousse, or a lemon ice, or mint sherbet, 
or tutti-frutti ice-cream?" "No, but I 
have a rule for a delicious blanc mange." 
Before anyone could laugh at this, a very 
serious looking book in a brown cover, 
called "Meat Substitutes," asked, "Do 
you tell of the value of whole w^heat, 
cheese, or nuts?" 

"Yes, and olive oil instead of lard," 
interrupted the before mentioned little 
volume of "How to Use Vegetable Oils." 

"And attractive ways to serve PurO- 
FoodO, the great new^ pre-digested food," 
from a new book in a slick shiney cover 
with a picture of a little child preparing 
a meal. 

Now the Old, Old Book had lain 
there in the bottom of the drawer a long, 
long time, and had become to feel quite 
meek and old, but this bantering sent an 
indignant thrill down its loose old back, 
and transformed it into a volume of vig- 
orous retort. "Olive Oil, Pre-digested 
food, PurO-FoodO ! The oil in my time 
was castor oil, and nothing now can hold 
20 



WHEN COOK-BOOKS TALKED 



21 



a candle to it. Talk about pure foods. 
What could be purer than the things one 
makes one's self? I've seen home 
ground meal, dried fruits, herbs, mo- 
lasses, sugar, lard and meats that came, 
every one of them, from field, garden or 
pasture, and placed in store by this 
grandmother's own hands. They weren't 
labeled pure, because there was no doubt 
about it, and no one was ever ill — unless 
it was because he could not have a sec- 
ond helping. Pre-digested food was not 
heard of in those days. Stomachs were 
not lazy. People ate what they pleased 
and went to work and forgot about it. 
I do wonder what this world is coming 
to. People will soon be kept in glass 
cases and fed with condensed nourish- 
ment in capsules." 

This long speech from the Old, Old 
Book was so astounding that not one of 
the others could think of anything to 
say, and the silence was becoming 
strained and painful when a learned 
looking volume entitled, "Errors in Mod- 



ern Diet," offered a few remarks in a 
quiet tone that restored peace. "You are 
all half right and half wrong," it began. 
"This grandmother's family may have 
handed down a worn out digestion to its 
posterity. Who can tell? Recall this — 
people lived in the open then, and men 
and women, alike, worked much more 
with their hands than with their heads. 
We should now fit our diet to our occu- 
pation. The world isn't growing any 
worse, I'm sure, so let's give three 
cheers for the old days — and three cheers 
for the new days, and live happily ever 
after." 

Loud cheering, then silence. 

The House-wife jumped to her feet. 
The dough had dried on her hands, so 
she held them Under the faucet, and 
while she rubbed and brushed at the ob- 
stinate little patches of paste, she said, 
"Well, I certainly was puzzled for a 
while about the menu I had planned for 
today's dinner, but, after all, I believe it 
is all right. Did you ever?" 



Roses of June 



The roses of June, oh, tlie roses of June, 

Their perfume is scenting the air, 
Red, yellow and white, in their beauty bedight, 

The dainty, the gorgeous, the rare. 
They bloom in the garden, they grow by the 
wall, 

They twine over trellises high. 
Where traffic is king, where whip-poor-wills 
sing 

Their faces they lift to the sky. 



The roses of June, oh, the roses of June, 

Their beauty no lip would deny, 
In clusters and sprays, they petition our praise, 

And never one passes them by. 
The treasured of age and the chosen of youth 

Their fragrance ungrudgingly shed, 
O'er the youth in his pride, o'er the bonnie 
young bride, 

O'er the new-sodded couch of the dead. 



The roses of June, oh, the roses of June, 

Earth stands in her bravest array. 
And the heavens above bend in tenderest love 

While breezes exultantly play. 
Red, yellow and white, in their beauty bedight, 

That passes away but too soon. 
Their banners, unfurled, whisper joy to the 
world, 

The beautiful roses of June. 

Lalia MlTCIiKLL. 



Driving Out the High School Pickle 

By >^oe Hartman 



THE cm ridurs of ihc great build- 
ing arc silent, though you can 
hear the hum of voices at the 
closed door of every room. Now and 
then a stray pupil wanders through the 
halls, pausing a moment to sniff the 
warm, spicy odors that issue from the 
big room set with the long, orderly rows 
of bare tables and chairs, and to peer 
through the doors at the aproned women 
plying busily to and fro amid a stir of 
preparation. 

Then a gong peals through the build- 
ing. Instantly a dozen 'doors are flung 
open and the corridors are full of tramp- 
ing feet. They rumble on the stairs like 
distant thunder and make straight for the 
room that sends forth the alluring odors. 

In scores and fifties they come — apple- 
cheeked tomboys of both sexes ; demure 
young misses with their hair piled high 
on their heads; and tall lads w^th the 
conscious importance of young manhood 
already upon them. Some of them neg- 
ligently lug a text-book or two which 
they toss into a corner outside the door. 
There is much good-natured pushing and 
jostling and a vast bubbling of high 
spirits, so long bottled up by the deco- 
rum of classroom and laboratory. Scores 
of eyes brighten at the sight of the long 
steam-table smoking with savory food. 

Each one receives a figure-inscribed 
paper check from the pleasant-faced 
woman near the entrance, helps himself 
to a knife, fork and spoon, a plate and 
a paper napkin and joins the procession 
filing along between the counters and the 
railing that separates the crowd from the 
larger area of the room. Behind the 
steam-table and the salad and pastry 
counter stand half a dozen or more deft 
women who ladle away for dear life at 
the appetizing contents of their kettles 
and pans, not too busy, however, to be- 



stow an occasional benign smile upon the 
hungry crowd. 

"Hullo, Schmitty, old top, whaddcr' ye 
going to have today ?" says one exuber- 
ant youth, digging a harum-scarum, 
bullet-headed comrade in the ribs with 
his elbow, while he spears two fat frank- 
furters with his fork. "Dog looks pretty 
good, huh?" 

"Not much! Me for sausage and 
spuds !" deckires the bullet-headed one. 
"What kind of ice-cream are you tak- 
ing?" 

"Choc'late. Say, look at that Peets 
kid loading up with cake and pie and 
ice-cream ! And that's all he's going to 
have! Ain't he the limit?" 

They trail along with the crowd, now 
moving in three orderly lines through as 
many open gateways into the wilderness 
of tables and chairs beyond. The big 
room fills rapidly ; the three checkers 
stationed at the gates vie with the serv- 
ers behind the counter in skill and de- 
spatch, and everything moves like well- 
oiled machinery. No one scrambles with 
undue haste, but it is evident that there 
is no time to be lost. 

Gradually, by twos and threes and then 
in a steady stream, the crowd flows out 
by the opposite door, past the toll-taking 
cashier's desk, while half a dozen kitchen 
helpers swoop down upon the deserted 
tables and strip them of dishes, which 
they hurry kitchenward on wheeled ta- 
bles. Scarcely have they whisked the 
last spoon out of sight before the gong 
again clangs through the building, re- 
leasing a second mob of hungry pupils, 
who must be fed during the remaining 
twenty or thirty minutes of the noon 
hour. 

Through it all, a woman sits tranquilly 
before a small table at one of the win- 
dows, absorbed in a pile of tradesmen's 



22 



DRIVING OUT THE HIGH SCHOOL PICKLE 



23 



bills, which she frequently compares with 
a ledger and a book of receipts. Now 
and then she looks up to smile absently 
at the crowd trooping by, but she does 
not stop, for this is account-settling day. 

''It takes a lot of your time, doesn't it? 
Don't you ever get tired of it?" you sym- 
pathize across the table from her, for 
you know that this has been her own 
particular little chore every school week 
for the past dozen years. 

''Oh, it's not much trouble when you 
remember what a great work it is !" She 
warms with enthusiasm, this Little Lady 
with a Vision, — and her eyes kindle. 
"Why, not long ago, one of the ladies of 
our church was telling some of us club 
women how she didn't believe in wom- 
en's clubs and how, if every woman did 
her duty by the Missionary Society, she 
wouldn't have any time for clubs. It 
made me a bit warm and I said after- 
ward to the ladies, 'Pooh! when it comes 
to missionary work, I've done more of 
that right here in our high school lunch- 
room than she's ever done in all her life 
in her missionary society !' " 

As a matter of fact, during all the 
years that her club has managed the 
lunch-room in this particular Chicago 
high school, she has been the guiding 
spirit of the enterprise, supervising every 
detail of serving lunch to something like 
four hundred pupils daily. During some 
years the number has risen as high as 
seven hundred. 

As to whether this particular kind of 
club activity constitutes a legitimate 
brand of missionary work, let the rank- 
and-file club woman decide for herself, 
no matter whether her own club studies 
Browning, or conducts a day nursery, or 
makes the local authorities wriggle by 
its investigations into municipal health 
arrangements. 

"Why did we take up the work?" 
repeated the Little Lady with a Vision, 
in response to inquiries. "Just because 
of the cry of Chicago physicians that the 
stomachs of high school pupils were be- 
ing ruined by lunches of the dill pickle- 



and-bag of candy variety. The majority 
of the pupils live too far to go home for 
lunch. So they either ate no lunch at 
all or else nibbled away at cream puffs 
or soggy rolls or other indigestibles from 
the corner delicatessen." 

And that is why the Ravenswood 
Woman's Club, in the spring of 1902, 
took charge of the newly established 
lunchroom at the Lakeview High School, 
thereby becoming the pioneers in this 
particular line of club work in Chicago. 

The following year a second large or- 
ganization, the Englewood Woman's 
Club, assumed similar duties at the En- 
glewood High School. They, too, had 
been urged by physicians, teachers and 
parents thus to champion the health of 
the pupils against the demon of the 
candy counter and the delicatessen pickle- 
jar. It was furthermore brought to their 
attention that the paper-bag lunch, at 
that time eaten without the reinforce- 
ment of dishes, tables or other symbols 
of civilization, was fast bringing the av- 
erage high school pupil within three 
jumps of savagery. 

"We entered upon the work," declared 
the capable club chairman who originally 
captained the enterprise, "as much as 
anything in hope it would react upon the 
manners of the pupils. We reasoned 
that a well-kept lunch-room, where warm 
food was served at tables by a group of 
women interested in the schools, would 
supply an atmosphere of refinement not 
to be found in a bare room littered with 
greasy paper bags, banana skins and 
other refuse from cold lunches." 

For much the same reason the Irving 
Park Woman's Club yielded to the pleas 
of the school authorities and took charge 
of the Carl Schurz High School lunch- 
room, in September 1912, after a year 
or two of private management which had 
proved unsatisfactory. By the time the 
Rogers Park Woman's Club was ready to 
test its managerial abilities on the lunch- 
room of the new Nicholas Senn High 
School, in the spring of 1913, the prin- 
ciple of successful club management 



24 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



had become a coiiinionplace generally 
accepted. 

Missionary? Why not? If a mis- 
sionan- is the standard-bearer of a higher 
civilization, then we should find among 
the fruits of his labors a sound digestion 
and gentle manners based upon kindly 
consideration for others. There you have 
it! 

"W'e are doing a great civic work," 
declare the club women. In grandma's 
day, they talked conservatively of "home 
missions". Today it is all a^part of the 
vast expanding field of ''civic work". 

The Board of Education has set the 
seal of its approval upon the work, as a 
result of a special investigation in 1908, 
which covered all the high school lunch- 
rooms in the city. In fact, it ranked the 
club-managed lunch-rooms higher than 
those under private management — a 
judgment which was confirmed a year 
later by Miss Caroline L. Hunt, an in- 
vestigator for the United States bureau 
of education, in her monograph, "The 
Daily Meals of School Children". 

The pupils, also, approve of the work 
and show it by 'chcosing the best lunch 
their allowance of pennies will buy, and 
then by rushing home after school to 
spread the glad news about ''those dandy 
graham gems they have up at the lunch- 
room and why can't we have some like 
'em at home?" 

As for Mother and Father, they are 
so well satisfied with the arrangement 
that it never occurs to them to wring 
their hands and wail that "the home is 
being broken up" by the serving of a 
communal meal to their children. Some 
of the poorer fathers and mothers even 
show their appreciation of it by provid- 
ing money for a larger lunch than the 
children of richer parents often buy, 
realizing, no doubt, that the club is furn- 
ishing better food at a lower rate than 
they themselves can afiford. 

And no wonder! All supplies used in 
the club lunch-rooms are of the best 
quality, and include the freshest vege- 
tables, the purest milk and butter (not 



butterine!), the highest pedigreed brands 
of meat, and little luxuries like filtered 
water. An inflexibly high standard of 
food is maintained, and woe to the dealer 
who seeks to lower it ! 

"We could make money, if we bought 
a cheap grade of food," says one lunch- 
room chairman proudly, "but we won't 
do it!" 

Again, the women keep their prices, 
practically, at cost, using what surplus 
they may accumulate to renew and im- 
prove the equipment. One club dis- 
poses of a part of its surplus by lowering 
the price of milk or some other item on 
the menu. Another maintains a sinking 
fund which it sometimes devotes to char- 
ity, or to the buying of books for the 
high school library, or apparatus for the 
laboratory. However these extra moneys 
may be spent, not one penny is ever 
charged up to "profits". The get-rich- 
quick aspirant would have a sorry time 
of it in one of these club-managed lunch- 
rooms. He would stand a far better 
chance at his million by peddling shoe- 
strings or emptying ash-cans. 

The practical management of each 
lunch-room is in the hands of a special 
club committee, with a membership vary- 
ing from twenty to seventy odd women. 
They are headed by a chairman who 
divides her force into working squads 
and assigns each different squad its day 
in the week or fortnight. The chairman 
also hires the manager, the cashier and 
other employes, straightens out bills and 
accounts and otherwise supervises the 
business end of the enterprise. 

The Irving Park Woman's Club is the 
only one in which the chairman combines 
the duties of her office with those of 
manager and cashier, giving all her time 
to the work, for which she receives a 
regular salary. She confers with her 
committee, however, in planning menus, 
ordering supplies and examining ac- 
counts. 

Each committee has its own treasurer, 
who handles the funds and approves all 
bills. 



DRIVING OUT THE HIGH SCHOOL PICKLE 



25 



The manager does all the buying, usu- 
ally from several true-and-tried whole- 
sale dealers. Unfortunately no manager 
has ever been able to buy on large 
enough scale to command the lov^est 
wholesale prices, because none of the 
lunch-rooms have proper facilities for 
cold storage. In the words of one man- 
ager, "It's easy to see that no woman 
architect had a hand in planning these 
lunch-rooms!" Even in the newest 
buildings, this strange lack of foresight 
is shown, not only in the absence of stor- 
age room, but in the inadequacy of 
kitchen space — which makes it difficult 
for the various managements to bake 
their own bread, cakes and pies. And 
yet three out of the four find a way to 
do most of the baking ; only one buys its 
supply of bread, cakes and cookies, while 
its pies, muffins and biscuits are all 
strictly home-made. 

The club women find that the location 
of their quarters is of more serious con- 
sequence than first appears. Two of the 
lunch-rooms are on the first floor of their 
respective school-buildings and the other 
two, upon the very top floor. The first 
location is ideal ; the second bristles with 
disadvantages. First, many of the pu- 
pils look upon the climbing of half a 
dozen flights of stairs as too great a price 
to pay for the comforts of a noonday 
meal and stay away accordingly, leaving 
no inconsiderable gap in the attendance. 
Equally vigorous are the objections of 
tradesmen to the task of lugging gro- 
ceries upstairs from the first floor to the 
fourth or fifth. Fortunately, one of the 
rooms has a small freight elevator which 
partially solves the problem, but the 
other, lacking elevator service, has for 
years been obliged to pay extra for the 
delivery of goods above the first floor 
and for the removal of garbage, all at 
labor-union rates. 

The furnishing of the lunch-rooms is 
a two-fold responsibility, the board of 
education usually providing the room, the 
tables and the chairs, while the club 
women supply the gas-range, dishes, sil- 



verware, kitchen utensils and water 
coolers. In the case of the new Nicho- 
las Senn building, however, the board, 
grown more liberal in its successful deal- 
ings with club women, furnished all the 
immovable equipment, such as gas-range 
and steam-tables, in addition to its usual 
quota of furniture. All the rooms are 
well ventilated and lighted, two of them 
with large sky-lights. 

As cafeteria service is the rule every- 
where ; the employment problem is com- 
paratively simple. The workers are re- 
cruited from three sources — paid help- 
ers, members of the lunch-room commit- 
tee, and student assistants who get their 
lunch free for their services. 

At the Lakeview lunch-room, where 
some four hundred pupils are served 
daily, from ten to twelve paid workers 
are employed, with several pupils to 
punch checks. During the early years of 
the club's management, the club women 
attended to the serving in person, but of 
late this work has been handed over to 
paid employes. 

At the Nicholas Senn, where the at- 
tendance is largest, r\iore than a thou- 
sand pupils are fed each noon through 
the efforts of eighteen paid workers, 
fifteen students, who hand out checks at 
the door, assist the cashier, clear off ta- 
bles and otherwise make themselves use- 
ful, and eighteen club women who act 
as checkers and servers. There is a dif- 
ferent committee of eighteen for each 
(lay in the week, each with its own chair- 
man who assigns the women to work. 

Practically the same plan is in force 
at the Englewood lunch-room, where 
eight kitchen employes, under a most 
efficient manager, prepare the food for 
six or seven hundred pupils. Student 
help is rarely utilized in this lunch-room, 
except for waiting on the faculty table. 
Here the general chairman is in com- 
mand three days out of the week and 
the vice-chairman, two; and the latter 
makes use of her training by succeeding 
automatically to the chairmanship for 
the following year. The Englewood club 



26 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



women are enthusiastic advocates of 
personal service. Direct contact with the 
pupils, they declare, has a healthy 
humanizing effect upon the young peo- 
ple; and the service itself has been 
known to interest many a club member 
for whom no other department of club 
work offered a field of usefulness. 

At the Irving Park lunch-room, where 
the patronage amounts to four hundred 
fifty pupils a day, eleven employes, aided 
by a like number of pupils, perform all 
the service except the checking. This is 
done by the club women working in 
groups of three, each group serving one 
day in every fortnight. 

Thus it will be seen that each club 
arrives at efficiency by a different route, 
as no two follow exactly the same plan 
in the division of labor. 
• Each lunch-room serves its customers 
in two divisions; formed according to the 
time schedule of the high school classes. 
As in all cafeteria service, after the food 
is prepared, the chief requisite is speed, 
to which the women add a large meas- 
ure of ''level-headedness" and unruffled 
good-nature, just by way of ''oiling the 
wheels". 

Three of the lunch-rooms use paper 
checks, which are distributed at the door 
as the pupils enter ; the Englewood man- 
agement alone retains the use of celluloid 
checks, counting them after every noon- 
day meal, to insure accuracy. The 
Ravenswood club women began their 
work with celluloid checks, but of late 
years they have substituted a system of 
serially numbered paper checks, varying 
in color from day to day. 

The numerical size of the checks 
varies with the appetites of young Miss 
Geometry Shark and Master Latin Grub- 
ber, or like as not, with the size of their 
luncheon allowance. A considerable per- 
centage of pupils bring their own 
lunches, some adding a glass of milk or 
a bowl of soup to the home-prepared 
dainties. So the checks range all the 
way from three cents to twenty, the av- 
erage expenditure being between ten and 



twelve cents. 

Now, if your gastronomical adventures 
arc confined to Sherry's and Delmonico's 
and the like, you will doubtless be sur- 
prised to learn how good a lunch one 
may buy for twelve cents. One club 
maintains a uniform price of five cents, 
each, for meats, vegetables, salads, pas- 
tries and desserts, even in the face of an 
advancing cost of living; the others vary 
charges according to the price of raw 
materials. In the preparation of menus, 
the managers usually shun monotony as 
the plague and as far as possible avoid 
cluttering up the calendar with any- 
thing like regularly recurring pork-and- 
beans Tuesdays, or corn-beef-and-cab- 
bage Thursdays. 

The following menu is but one of 
many with which appetites are tempted 
at one of the older lunch-rooms : 

Cream of Tomato Soup 5c 

Breaded Pork Chops 6c 

Beef a la Creole 6c 

Baked Beans 5c 

Creamed Potatoes 3c 

Macaroni and Cheese 5c 

Corn Fritters and Syrup 5c 

Baked Corn . . .* 5c 

Escaloped Tomatoes 5c 

Chipped Beef on Toast 5c 

Cold Boiled Ham 6c 

Salad ; Potato 5. Cabbage 5. Salmon 5c 

Minced Ham Sandwich 3c 

Hot Muffin and Butter 3c 

Roll and Butter 2c 

Pie ; Apple, Raspberry 5c 

Chocolate Pudding 5c 

Baked Custard 5c 

Baked Apple 5c 

Whipped Cream Cake 5c 

Chocolate Cake 3c 

Tarts 3c 

Steamed Pudding 5c 

Sliced Oranges 5c 

Olives 2 for Ic. Pickles 2 for Ic 

Ice Cream ; Vanilla, Chocolate Maplenut, 

Cherry 5c 

Coffee 5. Cocoa 4. Milk 3. Tea. 5c 

Another schedule of food and prices 
for one day comes from a more recent 
arrival in the field : 

Cream Rice Soup 5c 

Baked Salmon and Tomato Sauce 7c 

Sausage 6c 

Mashed Potatoes 4c 

Fried Potatoes 4c 

Lima Beans 3c 

Cold Slaw 5c 



DRIVING OUT THE HIGH SCHOOL PICKLE 



27 



Rye Bread and Cheese 3c 

Baked Hash 5c 

Blueberry Pie 5c 

Cookies Ic 

Norwegian Pudding 5c 

Ice-cream 5c 

Cocoa 3. Milk 3. Coffee 5c 

It will be observed; from the foregoing 
menus, that coffee and tea are held at 
higher prices than cocoa and milk, with 
the evident intention of encouraging the 
demand for the less harmful drinks. In 
the other lunch-rooms, also, coffee and 
tea are rarely used except among the 
teachers. 

By way of sparing nothing to make 
the lunch-rooms attractive, at least three 
of the clubs have, in response to popular 
demand, installed a candy counter, at 
which a brisk trade in "penny goods" is 
carried on at the close of the lunch hour. 
One club handles nothing but home- 
made molasses taffy and small bags of 
salted peanuts that sell for a cent. Then, 
just for good measure, another club gives 
its services free in taking charge of the 
refreshments at class parties and school 
revels, thus enabling the pupils to make 
the lunch-room the center of their social 
life, even out of school hours. 

All this is in harmony with the spirit 
of altruism which inspired the women's 
clubs to begin their work in high school 
lunch-rooms. Yet none know better than 
they that it is not charity, but practical 
service. That is the reason why, of all 
the high school lunch-rooms in Chicago, 
the club-managed product is unanimously 
acclaimed the best. 

To summarize, briefly, what have the 
club women contributed to the solution 
of the school lunch problem? They have 
demonstrated that to combine the best 
food and the most efficient service with 
the lowest prices is an economically 
sound proposition. In other words, they 



have evolved a conclusion which no pri- 
vately managed enterprise dares either 
to recognize or to challenge, — namely, 
that the only practical and satisfactory 
way of managing a school lunch-room is, 
first, to eliminate all profits. 

The great majority of high school 
lunch-rooms in Chicago are money-mak- 
ing enterprises and like every other in- 
vestment they demand returns. For this 
reason certain far-sighted persons, who 
are concerned for the future of the high 
school lunch-room, are setting their faces 
toward that (probably) inevitable day, 
when the school authorities shall follow 
in the path blazed by the club women. 

The Little Lady with a Vision, who is 
an authority on club-managed, high school 
lunch-rooms, has dared to dream splendid 
dreams of a vast system of school lunch- 
rooms under municipal control, each witii 
its own salaried manager, thoroughly 
trained for the work in a large central 
domestic high school. She would have 
lunch prepared and served at cost by 
the pupils themselves under the instruc- 
tion of these experts, who in turn should 
be directed by a skilled dietician, well- 
versed in the chemistry of food. Each 
menu should contain several dift'erent 
combinations of food, arranged by the 
dietician from the standpoint of a well- 
balanced ration, of which patrons could 
take their choice. Every lunch-room 
should have ample space for cold storage 
and the buying should be done for all on 
an extensive wholesale basis, thus mak- 
ing possible wide economies, which the 
present system does not permit. 

That is the Little Lady's Vision. If it 
ever becomes a reality, the club women 
will have pointed the way, for they are 
the logical forerunners of the idea. They 
are showing the public how the thing is 
done. 




Company Dinners 



Bv Mary M. Jaynes 



AS a result of the combined busi- 
ness and social relations of my 
husband and myself we feel our- 
selves called upon to entertain guests at 
dinner frequently. It is not wholly a 
question of duty with us, as many of 
those whom we invite would probably 
not feel that we were indebted to them, 
but we believe that one of the chief at- 
tractions a home may possess is the ex- 
tension of hospitality to others. 

For the past two years we have rarely 
passed a week without having one or two 
guests at dinner, and I have systema- 
tized the entertaining by carefully plan- 
ning the meals with regard to their cost, 
time of preparation, adaption to the sea- 
son of the year, suitability to the guests 
etc. etc. so that it is neither a burden to 
the housewife, nor a drain on the family 
purse. 

In most families it is the custom to 
have one specially good dinner a week, 
something extra as a meat course, a salad 
or rich dessert. Usually the meal is pre- 
pared for Sunday and w^hen we were 
first married I held to this rule, bnt now 
we have our "big"' dinner of the week 
on the day when we find it most con- 
venient to have guests. It is more often 
a week day. On Sunday we are as apt 
as not to have a simple meal of round 
steak, cooked in one of its many palatable 
forms, vegetables and a plain dessert. 
Sunday's dessert is usually prepared on 
.*^aturday — a fresh cake and a gelatine 
dessert, a pumpkin pie to be re-heated, 
or baked apples stuffed with a few nuts 
and raisins to be served with thin cream. 

I have two young children and keep 
no maid, so in planning the company 
dinners I try to serve as few dishes as 
possible that require attention at the last 
minute, ^^'e are ver)^ fond of prune 
whip, but I rarely serve it when there 
are guests as it should be watched dur- 



ing the course of the dinner to see how 
it is cooking. There is, however, a way 
of preparing this dainty dessert to be 
served cold and we often have it this 
way in summer. Make the whip as 
usual. My rule is : Twice as many table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar as there 
are whites of eggs and as many prunes 
as tablespoonfuls of sugar. For instance, 
to four whites of eggs add eight table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and eight prunes, 
cooked soft and cut fine (no juice). 
Bake in unbuttered pan in slow oven 20 
or 25 minutes. To five eggs add ten 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, ten prunes and 
so on for as large a pudding as you like. 
If you wish to serve the pudding cold, 
bake it in a tube cake-pan, buttered and 
dredged lightly with granulated sugar 
and set in a pan of hot water. Bake 
slowly, turn out of pan carefully and 
when cold it may be sliced and served 
with whipped cream or a thin custard 
sauce. 

I have found that one of the ways to 
prepare company dinners more easily and 
with less expense, is to have many of the 
little extras in the way of garnishings, 
seasonings etc. always on hand. On my 
pantry shelf may always be found a 
small bottle of Maraschino cherries, a 
jar of preserved ginger, a bottle of 
capers, a pint mason jar of shelled Eng- 
lish walnuts, a large jar of cracker 
crumbs, powdered sugar, and, of course, 
the canned things that help out so much 
in case of emergency — tomatoes, pine- 
apple, shrimp, sardines, etc. I replace 
these things when they are used as care- 
fully as I do the staples. It saves much 
worry to have them on hand, so when I 
plan my ordering I have only the main 
meat and vegetable dishes to think of 
and not all the little extras. In winter 
I keep a box of parsley growing in the 
'kitchen. Its fresh green sprays, on each 



28 



COMPANY DINNERS 



29 



end of the meat platter and at the side 
of the "melted butter hollow" on a 
snowy mound of mashed potatoes, cer- 
tainly help to make every one at the table 
realize how hungry he is. 

A hearty and satisfying dinner, which 
we have often in winter, consists of roast 
leg of lamb with mashed potatoes and 
brown gravy, escaloped onions, lettuce- 
and-egg salad, and for dessert a cream 
custard. The onions are a most appe- 
tizing dish and have the added good 
quality of being inexpensive. ''Cheap 
and unique", I often say as a joke, but 
in my efforts to be economical I try never 
to lose track of nourishment, and while 
our bank account grows slowly, we are 
always well and our children are healthy 
specimens with firm flesh and rosy 
cheeks. 

To return to the onions : Boil them as 
usual; when tender drain, and with a 
knife and fork chop them coarse. Add 
half-a-cup, each, of bread-crumbs and 
chopped EngHsh walnuts or pecans and 
a cup of rich milk. Season with salt 
and pepper. Sprinkle more buttered 
crumbs over the top and bake in a cas- 
serole fifteen or twenty minutes or until 
the crumbs are browned. I have found 
that for covering dishes with crumbs and 
butter it is much better to melt the butter 
and mix with crumbs thoroughly, then 
spread on dish. The crumbs brown 
quicker and are crisper and more tasty. 

A lettuce-and-egg salad is very good 
with any kind of roast meat. Cut hard- 
boiled eggs in quarters lengthwise. Ar- 
range the lettuce on salad plates and at 
the edge dispose two, three or four of 
the egg-quarters. Pour over a generous 
spoonful of French dressing, and 
sprinkle with three or four capers. 

Cream custard is delicious and I have 
rarely found anyone who did not thor- 
oughly enjoy it as a dessert. It may be 
made the day before, but in summer — (I 
make it oftenest when eggs are cheap) 
it should be kept on ice. Heat one quart 
of milk in double boiler. Beat two eggs 
and the yolks of four more, add a pinch 



of salt and three-fourths a cup of sugar. 
Cook in the milk till it thickens, stirring 
constantly, strain into a large pitcher and 
when cold add a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract and a few drops of almond. 
When ready to serve, break two stale 
macaroons into each glass cup (as many 
cups as there are persons to be served), 
pour over the custard until the glass is 
two-thirds full, add a generous spoonful 
of whipped cream and, lastly, a mara- 
schino cherry. Set the glasses on plates 
with lace-paper doily — (these are very 
inexpensive — a quarter's worth for com- 
pany occasions will last a long time). 
The macaroons do not need to be fresh, 
in fact, they are better if a little dry when 
put into the glasses. The whipped cream 
may be omitted. If the cream is used, 
it does not need to be sweetened. 

We usually serve desserts that are 
suitable for the children to eat. Pies and 
very rich puddings we seldom have, 
though we have one friend, a bachelor 
who has a great fondness for pie and 
when he comes we have it. He told me 
about a ver>^ special dish his "mother 
used to make" — a "walnut pie". He 
could not give any recipe, but described 
it and I tried it. When he came again 
he pronounced the result highly satisfac- 
tory; ate two large pieces and said 
the taste took him back thirty years. It 
is just an ordinary custard pie with the 
addition of two-thirds a cup of fine 
chopped, black walnut-meats. They are 
put right in the custard mixture. They 
rise to the top in the baking and give an 
indescribably toothsome flavor to the pie. 
Roast chicken is a great favorite with 
us as the principal dish for our company 
dinners. I select the chickens myself 
and get them as large and tender as 
possible. For the bread stuffing I use 
salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of 
Poultry Seasoning — (it comes already 
prepared in small cans and gives a de- 
liciously seasoned stuffing) and moisten 
with melted butter. A very good salad 
to serve with roast chicken, and one that 
(Continued on page 76) 



30 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMKRLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To OTHER Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 



TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 



State fttent of owfurship and managentent as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, 191 2. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers: R. B. Hill, B. M. Hill. 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill. 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co., 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Mattek 



LET us get rid of our false estimates, 
set up all the higher ideals — a quiet 
home ; cultivate vines of our own plant- 
ing; a few books full of the inspiration 
of a genius ; a few friends worthy of be- 
ing loved and able to love us in turn ; a 
hundred innocent pleasures that bring no 
pain or remorse ; a devotion to the right 
that will never swerve; a simple religion 
empty of all bigotry, full of trust and 
hope and love ; and to such a philosophy 
this world will give up all the empty joy 
it has. — David Swing. 



OLD AND NEW 

HOW do you like the new title as it 
appears, for the first time, on this 
June- July number? We feel that it is 
appropriate to the special work of the 
magazine and broad enough to cover the 
field in which we wish to make this pub- 
lication more extensively and better 
known. 

American Cookery, as a science and 
art, has become quite cosmopolitan in 
character. It has culled ideas and usages 
from the experience of all nations and 
adapted the best of them all to its needs. 
The works of noted cooks and chefs of 
all ages are now well known to those w^ho 
are concerned at all with the culinary art; 
while to past knowledge of food and 
feeding modern science is adding con- 
stantly facts and information of the ut- 
most importance. vSo today, we think, it 
may truthfully be said, American cook- 
ery is second to no other in the world. 
It is scientific in principle, hence 
hygienic, wholesome and satisfactory in 
an eminent degree. We have in Amer- 
ica abundant food-supplies and we are 
rapidly learning how to manipulate these 
in the most advantageous ways. 

Our chief needs seem to be a more 
widespread and universal knowledge of 
the ways and means of housekeeping, 
and a general acceptance and practice of 
economic principles and laws. Prudent 
economy in family and state is yet in 
large measure to be learned. The prob- 
lem of living today in a land with ninety 
millions, chiefly craftsmen, is quite dif- 
ferent from what was once the case with 
a population composed largely of tillers 
of the soil. History teaches that, sooner 
or later, every people is compelled by 
circumstances to practice economy and 
thrift. The French are said to have 
learned the lesson long ago. Now the 
Germans are faithfully pursuing the 
same course. The time has now come 
when the prudent, economic, efficient 
conduct of afifairs, both great and small, 
is the most important subject of the day. 



EDITORIALS 



31 



This publication aims to inculcate a more 
intelligent, earnest, and prudent manage- 
ment of the American household. 

Our readers are reminded here once 
more that the character of the publica- 
tion is not to be modified, even in the 
slightest manner, save in the line of bet- 
terment and progress. 

The magazine is just what it claims 
to be, a reliable, sensible and usable 
culinary journal. Its contents are 
worthy of preservation; therefore it 
provides each year a title page and 
complete index. 

The present is a propitious time for 
new subscriptions, beginning with a 
new volume, a new name and new in- 
spiration for enlarged service. The 
spirit of the magazine is that of econ- 
omy. A subscriber writes us today, 
''Your magazine is greatly enjoyed by 
me and I think no housekeeper, in fact 
no young woman, should be without 
it." Keep your culinary publication; 
it is of greater value and consequence 
to you than its cost. Like the favorite 
almanac, why not consider it as a part 
of the household outfit? 

THE GRAIN OF TRUTH 

THERE are truths and half-truths. 
Propositions that have not been 
fully accepted by mankind contain 
undoubted germs of truth. As an 
economic measure the contentions in 
favor of free trade among the nations 
are humane, true and unrefutable; but 
the era of universal peace has not come 
to earth and people must face existing 
conditions rather than assay untried 
theories. Even in the present stage of 
civilization, unless individuals and na- 
tions are prepared and willing to prac- 
tice self-defense, neither property nor 
life would be long secure anywhere. 
Though ill be the philosophy, yet might 
still makes right in most worldly affairs. 
When Progress and Poverty was 
first published, many said before the 
doctrines advocated therein shall pre- 
vail, resistance through destructive re- 



volution will occur. But the grain of 
truth was there ; a few decades pass and 
to-day Henry George is regarded as the 
foremost thinker and philosopher of his 
age. His book has had masked influence 
on the thought of the day. The idea 
of the single tax on land, though not 
yet put into practice, has been strangely 
incentive in modifying the methods of 
taxation in civilized parts of the globe. 

Passing from the abstract to the con- 
crete, people in masses are not likely 
to adopt in general practice the method 
of eating as taught especially by Horace 
Fletcher, in his now well-known book, 
"The X-Y-Z of Nutrition". Still Flet- 
cherism has spread far and wide. 
Thinking men and women, everywhere, 
are giving far greater attention to the 
study of food and nutrition than did 
their forbears of old. In fact, in matters 
of diet we are gradually, but steadily, 
conforming to the teachings of Fletcher 
and the vegetarian, — in other words, 
to the deductions of modern scientific 
study and investigation. Progress and 
reform are slow processes. They are 
brought about gradually and in accor- 
dance with natural laws. The world is 
steadily and surely growing better. 

ROYAL DINNER PARTY 

ALTHOUGH the King only cares for 
the simplest dishes in the menu, he 
does not impose these tastes on his 
guests. Consequently, those who are 
bidden to dine at Buckingham Palace do 
not fare as did Lord Steyne, to whom 
George lY. offered "boiled neck of mut- 
ton and turnips." Not only are the re- 
sources of the Royal kitchen equal to 
furnishing as Lucullus-like a repast as 
the heart of gourmet could possibly de- 
sire, but the chef (a Frenchman) has a 
perfect genius for evolving the new and 
delicious dishes which are set before the 
gjests. 

Amongst these is a soup (the secret of 
' vhich is locked up in the cook's breast) 
' osting about 5s. a plateful, while the 
nethod of preparing game for a Royal 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



dinner party's consumption is the envy 
ui half the culinary experts in Europe. 
As to the cellar, it has long been a fa- 
mous one, many of the wines, especially 
the white ones, being almost priceless. 
There is a certain still hock, for instance, 
which was laid down half a century ago, 
and for which wealthy connoisseurs 
would cheerfull\- pay whatever sum 
might be asked, while the Chateau Y 
Qu'em although possessing all the char- 
acteristics of its admired type, is less in- 
clined to sweetness than are most Y 
(Ju'cnis. 'i1ie liqueur brandy, too, is a 
thing to inspire reverence. 

Two tables are laid, one of which is in- 
tended for the King and Queen (who sit 
opposite each other) and for some 
twenty-five guests, the other accommo- 
dating a slightly larger number. Both 
tables are decorated with red and white 
flowers, carnations for choice, an enor- 
mous golden vase containing a quantity 
of them, smaller vases being placed 
around it. The appointments of Their 
Majesties' table are also in gold, those 
of the other table being of silver. The 
cut glass (which is cleaned with almost 
superhuman care) is in both cases the 
same. The room is lit by large electri- 
cally-fitted chandeliers and by gilt 
bracket lights. 

Royalty dines at about 8 o'clock, and 
some minutes before that hour the guests, 
who have been ushered in by the red- 
liveried, powdered footmen, and received 
by the members of the household, are 
placed in position according to the order 
in which they are to enter the dining- 
room. Then, ranging themselves in two 
lines, they await the arrival of the King 
and Qneen, who, passing through the 
double rank of bowing and curtseying 
courtiers, lead the way, being followed 
by the rest of the company. The places 
at table are easily found, for eacn is 
marked with a number and with he 
name of the diner, additional assistance 
being rendered by the equerries. Ti-e 
last-named are very important persoi.s, 
and Royalty looks to them to super" i- 



tend the necessary arrangements in con- 
nection with the dinner, and, above all, to 
see that, in sending in the couples, the 
proper precedence is observed, an error 
in this direction amounting to a most 
heinous oflfence. 

Although no fewer than twenty dishes 
are served, thanks to the intelligently-de- 
vised means of communication between 
the dining-room and the kitchen, each 
plat follows its predecessor in such rapid 
succession that, long waits being dis- 
pensed with, the duration of the meal is 
kept within bounds. At its conclusion 
the party betakes itself to one of the 
State rooms for the purpose of "assist- 
ing" at a very short concert, after which 
cofTee and ices (strange mixture!) are 
served. Finally, 11 o'clock having struck, 
the indispensable equerries pass the word 
that the King and Queen are about to 
retire to their own apartments, and the 
guests once more arrange themselves in 
two lines. Amidst much curtseying and 
bowing Their Majesties take leave of all 
present, in English, French and German, 
according to the nationality of the person 
addressed. — George Cecil in Food & 
Cookery. 



I am glad to see that Mr. Finck, in 
"Food and Flavour/' shows himself a 
doughty champion of the English break- 
fast that so many of our advisers have 
told us to go without. ''Breakfast, the 
very word," he says, ''suggests a great 
service Britannia has done the gastro- 
nomic world. Nothing could be more 
irrational for normal persons than the 
Continental habit of eating only bread 
and butter for breakfast and then having 
a second heavier breakfast at eleven or 
twelve o'clock to interrupt the morning's 
work in its full tide. Far better, both 
economically and hygienically is the Eng- 
lish way of having a substantial break- 
fast and then nothing more till lunch 
time, the best hour for which is one 
o'clock. A healthy person ought to have 
a good appetite in the morning, after a 
night's rest, and gratify it." — Exchange. 




CHAUDFROID OF BOILED HAM 

Decoration Capers and Slices of Olive Covered with Aspic Jelly 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Broiled Bluefish 

DISCARD the head and tail, spHt 
the fish and take out the back- 
bone and such bones as are at- 
tached to it ; rinse in fresh water and 
dry on a cloth. Have ready a hot, well- 
oiled broiler; in it lay the fish and set 
to cook on the flesh side ; turn often, 
cooking principally on the flesh side. 
After the fish has been well-browned, it 
may be set into the oven over a dripping 
pan for the final cooking. The time of 
cooking will depend on the thickness of 
the fish and will vary from twelve to 
eighteen minutes. When cooked, with a 
steel fork separate the broiler from the 
fish. Do this on both sides of the fish, 
then slide the fish, skin side down, upon 
a large platter. Spread the fish with 
maitre d' hotel butter; pipe mashed po- 
tato around the iish. Serve cress or cu- 
cumber salad on chilled plates. For a 
change add one or two tablespoonfuls of 
oyster cocktail sauce to the French 
dressing. 



Baked Bluefish, Potato Stuffing 

Prepare the fish as for broiling, ex- 
cept remove the skin. Oil a fish-sheet 
(tin cracker-box cover with edges flat- 
tened) ; on it set one of the prepared 
fillets and season with salt and paprika. 
Chop fine one mild onion and one green 
pepper; let cook in one-fourth a cup of 
butter until softened and yellowed a lit- 
tle. Do not let the vegetables brown. 
Add one cup and a half of mashed po- 
tato, a tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley, with salt and black pepper as 
needed, mix thoroughly and spread over 
the fish ; set the second fillet over the 
potato, lay strips of fat salt pork above 
and set into the oven. Let bake about 
forty minutes, basting five or six times 
with the fat in the pan. When baked 
remove the bits of pork, spread on three- 
fourth a cup of cracker crumbs, mixed 
with one-fourth a cup of melted butter, 
and return to the oven to brown the 
crumbs. Slide the fish to a hot serving 
dish. Garnish with lemon and parsley. 



.33 



34 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



^trrve tomaio sauce in a separate dish. 
Tomato Sauce 

Melt three tablespoon fuls of butter; 




INDIVIDUAL LAMB PIE 

in it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour, 
half a chili pepper and half a slice of 
onion chopped line, add half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt and three-fourths a cup, each, 
of stewed tomatoes and brown stock and 
let cook until boiling, then strain and 
use. Mushrooms, fresh or dried, soaked, 
(two or three or an equivalent), may be 
added with the onion and pepper, or all 
may be omitted. 

Little Lamb Pies 

Make flaky pastry with two cups of 
sifted pastry flour, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a cup of shortening, two table- 
spoonfuls of butter (rolled in at the last) 



pastry will make six or eight '"covers'*. 
Brush the underside of crescents or 
other small figures, cut from the paste, 
with cold water and set them on the 
paste, and make an opening in the center 
of each. For the filling, have remnants 
of a roast leg of lamb ; these should be 
cut in thin slices, freed of all unedible 
portions, and cooked exceedingly tender 
in stock or boiling water to cover. For 
each cup and a quarter of meat make 
one cup of sauce (two tablespoonfuls. 
each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper, and 
one cup of the liquid in which the meat 
was cooked). Have the sauce boiling; 
in it heat the meat, turn into the dishes, 
spread over the cover and press it down 
over the edge of the dish. Let bake 
from ten to fifteen minutes. Serve at 
once, or reheat in the oven before 
serv'ing. 

Lamb Stew 

Buy meat from the best part of the 
forequarter. Three pounds will be 
enough for a family of five or six per- 
sons. Remove superfluous fat and cut 
into pieces about two inches square and 
one inch thick. Remove superfluous 
bones and wipe each piece of meat care- 
fully, to get rid of any bits of bone that 
may be present. Cover the bones with 
cold w^ater and set to simmer. Use this 




BAKED POTATO 



and a httle cold water. Have ready 
some small, brown, earthen baking di-hes 
(6x4 or ?y^3 \ ; lay one upside down or. 
tVic paste and cut w4th a knife all aroun:^ 
it, one-third an inch from the edge. The 



broth to replenish the liquid around the 

meat when it is needed. Cover the meat 

Avith boiling water, let boil five minutes, 

::m as needed, then let simmer until 

.- rlv tender. It will take three or four 



SEASOXABLE RECIPES 



35 



i 


k 








V ^ 9BBi 


■--, 






. 


B 




r 


1 


''^r!!i!!9SB 


W 


P 









FRENCH OMELK 



LLED AND READY TO TURN FRoM I'AN 



hours. Add two peeled onions, cut in 
slices, a cup and a half of pared pota- 
toes, cut in slices, parboiled five minutes 
and drained, five small (new) carrots, 
scraped and cut in halves ; and let cook 
ten minutes; skim off all fat, possible, 
then take up the rest with tissue or 
blotting paper; add salt and pepper as 
needed, and one pint of fresh-shelled 
green peas. Serve as soon as the peas 
are cooked. 

Chaudfroid of Boiled Ham 

Scrub and wash a ham ; if salt, soak 
overnight in cold water. Set to cook in 
a fresh supply of cold water ; use enough 
water to cover the ham. Heat gradually 
to the boiling point, then let simmer until 
tender. Let partially cool in the liquid, 
then remove to a board. Cut the skin 
in points to leave the lower and lars^er 



until the sauce begins to "set" a very 
little, then pour over the ham below the 
skin to cover it completely, and smoothly. 
If the ham be chilled, the sauce will set 
at once and give a smooth surface. Dec- 
orate with a wreath of capers and slices 
of olive, or with figures cut from thin 
slices of trufi:Ies. Have ready a cup of 
hot, clarified consomme, in which a ta- 
blespoonful of gelatine, softened in cold 
water, has been dissolved. Let cool in 
ice-water, then use to cover the decora- 
tions and sauce. The ham will keep in 
perfect condition for several days. 

French Omelet 

To make a French omelet successfully 
is thought to be more difticult than to 
make a good puffy omelet. A smooth 
omelet pan that has been gradually 
heated is of the first importance. A pan. 




FRENCH OMELET 



part of the ham free from skin. Set 
aside to become chilled. To a cup of 
hot cream sauce add one-fourth a pack- 
age of gelatine, softened in one- fourth 
a cup of cold water; stir over ice-water 



eight inches in diameter, is about the 
right size for an omelet of four eggs. 
To the eggs broken in a bow'l add a gen- 
erous quarter a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and pepper; beat with a spoon until 



36 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



a full spoonful can be lifted; add four 
tablespoon fuls of water (one for eacb 




POACHED EGG ABOVE CREAMED ONIONS 
IN CROUSTADE 

Qgg), and beat to mix thoroughly. Into 
the well-heated omelet pan put a table- 
spoonful of clarified butter and turn the 
pan to distribute the butter evenly over 
the surface. Pour in the tgg mixture ; 
with a spatula, in one hand, separate the 
egg from the side of the pan, and, with 



bread. Spread the whole surface of the 
bread with butter and let brown in the 
oven. Fill the opening in the hot bread 
with hot, creamed onions, and set a care- 
fully poached, small, egg above. Ser^-e 
at luncheon or supper. 

Croustades with Spinach 

Chop half a peck of hot, cooked spin- 
ach very fine; melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter in a hot dish ; add half a teaspoon- 
ful, each, of salt and pepper, and the 
chopped spinach, stir and cook until 
evenly blended, then serve in hot crou- 
stades of bread. 

Ragout of String Beans a la 
Bretonne 

Remove the strings from fresh-picked, 
crisp string beans, and cut or break in 
small pieces. For a pint of beans add a 




BREAD CROUSTADES, CROUTONS, ETC. 



the other hand, shake the pan that the 
cooked portion of the egg may slide up- 
on the pan, wrinkle, and let the un- 
cooked portion down upon the pan. 
Continue in this way until the whole por- 
tion of egg is nearly set, then roll or 
fold with the spatula ; let rest a moment 
to color the bottom slightly, then turn 
on to a hot dish. 

Creamed Onions in Croustades, 
with Poached Eggs 

Cut tender, cooked, mild onions in 
slices and the slices in halves, and mix 
with an equal bulk of cream sauce. Have 
ready generous squares of bread, about 
an inch thick, from w^hich a round has 
been taken to half the depth of the 



teaspoonful of salt to a saucepan of cold 
water; in this cook the beans till tender, 
adding boiling water as necessar}^ ; drain 
the beans ; press a fresh-cooked onion 
through a sieve ; add an equal measure 
of either cream or tomato puree, about 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of 




SPINACH IN CROUSTADE 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



i7 



black pepper; when boiling, add the 
beans ; when very hot, add a tablespoon- 
ful of butter ; shake the pan to melt the 



Hollandaise Sauce 

Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to 




ASPARAGUS, HOLLANDAISE SAUCE 



butter, and at once pour into a hot serv- 
ing dish. 

Asparagus as Peas 

Cut the tender portions of a bunch of 
asparagus in pieces half an inch in 
length ; let cook in boiling salted water, 
with a teaspoonful of butter, until ten- 
der and the water is not too plentiful. 
Beat the yolks of three or four eggs ; 
add half a teaspoonful of sugar, half a 
teaspoonful of black pepper, and salt if 
needed ; add to the asparagus with three 
tablespoonfuls of butter and stir con- 
stantly until the tgg thickens. The mix- 
ture should be quite stiff. Serve on 
toast or on a dish surrounded with toast 
points. 



a cream; add two egg-yolks, one after 
another, and beat each in thoroughly; 
add one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika and one-third a cup of 
boiling water; cook over hot water, 
stirring constantly until thickened slight- 
ly; add the juice of half a small lemon 
and at once pour over the asparagus 
tips. For a thicker sauce, use one or 
two more egg-yolks. Too long cook- 
ing will cause the sauce to curdle. 

Green Peppers, Stuffed with Rice 
and Onions 

Cut a slice from the stem or pointed 
end of the peppers, whichever will fur- 
nish, thereby, the best receptacle for the 
filling. Pour boiling, salted water over 



tr^fr* 






GREEN PEPPERS, STUFFED WITH RICE AND ONIONS 



Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce 

Trim off the tough ends of the aspara- 
gus and cook in boiling salted water 
until tender. Set the stalks on two slices 
of toast, tips towards each other in 
the center of the dish. Pour Hollan- 
daise Sauce over the tips. 



the peppers, cover and let cook three or 
four minutes. Remove and set in sym- 
metrical order in a serving-dish suitable 
for the oven. Have ready, for six pep- 
pers, about one cup and a half of cream 
sauce, half a cup of rice, blanched and 
cooked tender, and three mild onions 
boiled tender. Cut the onions in bits and 



38 



AMl'.KKAX COOKERY 



mix with about one-third of the white 
sauce. Fill the peppers with alternate 
layers of the creamed onions and the 




GINGER ALE SALAD 

rice. Set a few buttered cracker crumbs 
above the filling in each pepper. Let 
cook in the oven until the crumbs are 
browned. Turn the rest of the cream 
sauce around the peppers and serve at 
once. 

Plain Tomato Jelly, with Celery 
Salad (By request) 

Cook two cups and a half of canned 
tomatoes, two slices of onion, three 
branches of parsley, a small bit of bay 
leaf, three cloves and a branch of celery, 
if at hand — , about fifteen minutes. 
Strain and add one-fourth a package of 
gelatine, softened in one-fourth a cup of 
cold w^ater; stir until the gelatine is dis- 



is free from the mold, and unmold on a 
chilled dish. Fill the center with cleaned 
celery, cut in small bits, or juHenne 
strips of French endive, mixed with 
either French or mayonnaise dressing. 

Gingef Ale Salad 
(The latest novelty in salads) 

Soften one- fourth a package of gela- 
tine in one-fourth a cup of cold w^ater, 
and let dissolve in a dish of hot water; 
add a grating of lemon rind and one 
cup and three-fourths of ginger ale. 
Turn into small molds to chill and set. 
Serve very cold on heart-leaves of let- 
tuce, with either French or mayonnaise 
dressing, to a cup of which is added three 
tablespoon fuls or more of cocktail sauce. 

Macedoine of Vegetable Salad 

Boil a bunch of new carrots, carefully 
scraped, a bunch of beets, a head of 
celery or the equivalent of celeriac, a 
cup of string beans, a cup of peas, and 
a small head of cauliflower, separately. 
When chilled thoroughly, add one-fourth 
a cup of chili sauce to a cup of French 
dressing made with half a teaspoonful 
of onion juice, mix and pour over the 
vegetables (all of it may not be needed). 
Serve at once in nests of lettuce. 

Scones 

Sift together, tw^o cups of pastry flour, 
three level teaspoonfuls of baking pow- 
der, half a teaspoonful of salt, and three 





m 


■ 

.. .^ • 4 


■ 






B 


■ 


t 








— -i;"^^- 















TOMATO JELLY. WLfH CELERY SALAD 



solved, then turn into a border mold. 
When ready to serve dip the mold to 
its full height in tepid water, wipe, turn 
in the hand, to make sure that the jelly 



tablespoonfuls of sugar; add half a cup 
of raisins ; work in one-fourth a cup of 
shortening; beat one Qgg; add half a cup 
of sweet milk and stir into the dry in- 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



39 




SCOTCH SCONES, WITH MARMALADE 



gradients. Turn the dough on a floured 
board, then pat and roll into a sheet half 
an inch thick ; cut into diamond shapes ; 
bake in a quick oven ; split and let toast 
over a quick fire. Serve at once with 
butter and marmalade or maple syrup. 

Chocolate Cream Cake 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter ; beat 
in half a cup of sugar ; beat two eggs ; 
beat in half a cup of sugar, then beat 
the eggs and sugar into the butter and 
sugar; sift together one cup and three- 
fourths of flour and three level teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder; add these to the 
first mixture, alternately, with two-thirds 
a cup of milk. Bake in two round layer 
cake pans. Put the layers together with 
custard filling. Cover the top with choc- 
olate frosting, or, sift confectioner's 
sugar, over the top. 

Custard Filling 

Scald one cup of milk in a double 
boiler; stir one-third a cup of flour with 



one-third a cup of milk to a smooth 
paste, then stir and cook in the hot milk 
until the mixture thickens; cover and let 
cook fifteen minutes. Beat one Qgg; beat 
in one-third a cup of sugar and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and stir into 
the hot mixture ; continue to stir until 
the egg is set; let cool; add half a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract and the fill- 
ing is ready. 

Chocolate Confectioner's Frosting 

]\Ielt one ounce of chocolate ; add three 
or four tablespoonfuls of boiling water, 
half a teaspoonful of vanilla extract and 
sifted confectioner's sugar as needed. 

German Puffs, with Strawberries 

Beat a scant half -cup of butter to a 
cream; gradually beat in half a cup of 
sugar, then the unbeaten yolks of 
three eggs, and beat the whole until 
light and fluffy; finish with one cup of 
milk and two cups of sifted flour, sifted 
again with half a level teaspoonful of 




CHOCOLATE CREAM CAKE 



40 



AMKRICAN COOKERY 




GERMAN PUFFS, WITH STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM 



soda and a slightly rounding tcaspoon- 
ful of cream-of-tartar. Have an iron 
muffin-pan wcll-heatcd and greased, 
or individual aluminum pans greased 
without heating; init in the mixture. 
Bake about twenty-five minutes. The 
mixture makes fourteen puffs. Have 
ready a basket or two of strawberries, 
cut in halves and sweetened, and a cup 
of cream, beaten firm. Turn the cakes 
upside down, and cut out a rectangular 
piece from each; remove more of the 
cake if desired to make the opening 
larger. Fill with the sugared berries; 
pipe the cream above. More berries 
may be disposed around the puffs. 
The puffs are good with raspberries, 
peaches or pineapple; and also with 
raspberry or strawberry sauce, creamy, 
foamy, sabayon or other pudding sauce. 

Prune Bavarian Cream 

Remove the stones and cut cooked 
prunes in small bits. There should be 
one cup and a half of pulp and juice. 
Soften one-third a package of gelatine in 
one-third a cup of cold water; dissolve 



in a little of the prune pulp and juice 
made hot for the purpose ; add one- 
fourth a cup of orange or grapefruit 
marmalade (cut the peel in small bits), 
the juice of half a lemon, and two-thirds 
a cup of sugar; stir until the sugar is 
dissolved, then set into ice and water 
and stir occasionally until the mixture 
begins to set, then fold in one cup and 
a half of cream, beaten firm. Turn into 
a border (or other) mold. When un- 
molded, garnish with half a cup of cream, 
beaten stiff, and pieces of cooked prunes. 

White Cake (said to be good 
recipe for high altitude) 

Cream half a cup of butter; add 
gradually one cup of sugar, half a cup 
of milk, two cups of sifted flour, sifted 
again with three level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder, and the whites of 
three eggs, beaten dry. Bake in two 
layers. Put the layers together and 
cover the outside with a boiled frosting 
to which half a cup, each, of chopped 
raisins and nuts have been added. As 
Almond Cake, see page 45. 




PRUNE BAVARIAN CREAM 



Menus for Formal Occasions injune 

WEDDING BREAKFAST 

I 

(guests seated) 

Strawberries, French Fashion 

Breaded Fillets of Fresh Fish. Fried 

Cucumbers, French Dressing with Cocktail Sauce 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Egg Timbales, Cream Sauce with Asparagus Tips 

Coffee 

Pineapple Sherbet Cake 

II 

Salpicon of Strawberries and Pineapple, in Glass Cups 

Creamed Fresh Fish au Gratin 

in Shells or Ramekins 

Olives 

Lady-Finger Rolls (reheated) 

Breaded Sweetbreads, with Peas 

Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing 

Sultana Roll. Claret Sauce 

Assorted Cake 

WEDDING BREAKFAST 

(Buffet Service) 

I 

Chicken Croquettes 

Asparagus as Peas (kept hot in chafing dish) 

Eggs a la King Chafing Dish 

Lobster-and-Halibut Salad 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches ■^' 

Small Baking Powder Biscuit ' '; 

Coffee, Cocoa. Whipped Cream' 

Strawberry Sherbet in Glasses. 

Whipped Cream Decoration 

Bride's Cake (cut by bride) 

II 

Lobster Cutlets. Sauce Tartare 

Creamed Chicken. Peas and Mushrooms 

(in chafing dish) 

Fresh Salmon Salad 

Yeast Rolls 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Coffee Tea 

Vanilla Ice Cream in Glasses, Strawberrv Sauce 



Menus for One Week in June 

fVitfi mart^ foods, cooking may he said with truth to he the preliminat^ step to rapid and 
the completest possible digestion. — Jordan. 



Breakfast 

Creamed Asparagus on Toast 

Poached eggs above Kaiser Rolls 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Beef Broth with Paste 

Roast Veal, Brown Gravy 

Bread Dressing Mashed Potatoes 

Gooseberr\- Jam or Jelly New Beets 

Meringues, with Strawberries 

and Whipped Cream 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Hot Cheese Sandwiches 

Lettuce or Endive Salad, 

French Dressing with Cocktail Sauce 

Stewed Prunes Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Smoked Beef 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated) 

Rhubarb Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roast Leg of Lamb Franconia Potatoes 

Beet Greens String Bean Ragout 

Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce 

Bread Pudding (with jelly) and ^Meringue 

Half Cups of Coft'ee 

Supper 

Cold Beet Greens, Sliced Eggs, 

Sauce Tartare Parker House Rolls 

Dry Toast Strawberries 

Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Broiled Honejcomb Tripe Pickled Beets 

Baked Potato Cakes ^-~- 

(Mashed potato, left over) 

Hot Scones, Toasted 

Cocoa Marmalade Coft'ee 

Dinner 

Veal Souffle Tomato Sauce 

Green Peppers, Stuffed with 

Rice and Creamed Onions 

Floating Island 

(Cake, soft custard, snow eggs, bits of jelly) 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Scrambled Eggs Buttered Toast 

Rye and Oatmeal Bread 

Strawberries Tea 

Breakfast 

Veal, Potato-and-Green Pepper Hash 

Cornmeal Muffins 

Dried Peaches, Stewed Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Bluefish, Potato Stuffing 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Asparagus on Toast 

Beets Stuffed with Chopped Cucumbers, 

French Dressing 

Rhubarb or Green Currant Pie 

Cheese Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Bluefish Salad 

(garnish, pickled beets, chopped) 

Bread and Butter Baking Powder Biscuit 

Stewed Peaches Banana Coffee 



Breakfast 

Pineapple French Omelet, Broiled Bacon 

French Fried Potatoes 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Radishes Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Mock Bisque Soup, with 

Whipped Cream 

Cold Roast Lamb, Sliced Thin 

Potatoes Scalloped with Onions 

and Green Peppers 

Asparagus, HoUandaise Sauce 

Strawberry Tarts Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Sardines ' "^ Thin Bread and Butter 

Olives Chocolate Cream Cake 

Milk Tea 



Breakfast 

Eggs Scrambled with Asparagus 

Strawberries, Thin Cream 

Pop Overs 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Swordfish, Breaded and Sauted 

Mashed Potatoes 

New Cabbage Salad 

String Beans 

Lemon Sherbet 

Sponge Drops 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Cookies 



Supper 

Tomato Rabbit 
Pineapple 



Grape Juice 



Breakfast 

!^ Lambs Liver and Bacon 
Q ! Mashed Potato Cakes, Baked 
P^ Rhubarb, Stewed with Raisins 
g Fried Mush, Maple Syrup 
^ or Bees Honey 

m Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Individual Lamb Pies 

(left over roast) 
Hot Boiled Spinach 
or Dandelions, Buttered 
New Turnips, Boiled 
Baked Maple Custard 
Half Cups of Coffee 

41 



Supper 

Succotash 

(Kornlet and Dried Lima Bean 

Rye and Oatmeal Bread 

Strawberries 

Cookies 

Tea 



Menus for a Week in July 

The free use of soups and fresh vegetables is wise for those persons who have a tendency 
to overindulgence in eating, — Jordan. 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon, Dry Toast 

Individual Raspberry Shortcakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Spinach Soup 

Steamed Fowl, Browned in Oven 

Xew Potatoes Green Peas 

Lettuce and Peppergrass, French Dressing 

Raspberry Sherbet, in Glass Cups 

Whipped Cream above 

Oatmeal Macaroons 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Egg Timbales, 

White Sauce with Green Peas 

Bread and Butter 

Blueberries Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Dried Beef 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Bread and Butter 

Blueberry Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Cutlets (from round) 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Sliced Eggs and Cress, French Dressing 

Blueberry Pie, Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Sword Fish Croquettes, Sauce Tartare 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

New Rye Bread 

Home Canned Apple Sauce Tea 



Breakfast 

Creamed Chicken on Toast, 

Poached Eggs above 

Ryemeal ]\Iuffins Strawberry Jam 

Coft'ee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Flank Steak, Stuft'ed and Braised 

Brown Sauce 

New Cabbage, Boiled Baked Potatoes 

Cherry Pie Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Green Pea Soup, St. Germain 

(Chicken Broth) 

Browned Crackers 

Berries Bread and Butter 

Ginger Snaps Tea 



Breakfast 

Eggs Baked in Tomato Cups 

Pulled Bread 

Waffles, Maple or Caramel Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 
Halves of Hot Potatoes, Grilled 

New Carrots, Lyonnaise 

Custard Souffle, Sabayon Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Broiled Bacon 

Mashed Potatoes 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

Berries, Thin Cream Tea 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish Balls Bacon Rolls 

Hot Chopped Cabbage (left over) 

German Coffee Cake Blueberries 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Sword Fish, Italian Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes String Beans or Peas 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Hot Cornstarch Pudding 

Raspberry Hard Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Blueberries, Milk 

Crackers Bread 

Jelly Roll Tea 



Breakfast 

Breaded Fillets of Fresh Fish, Fried 

Sauce Tartare 

Yeast Rolls Berries 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Potato Soup 

Cheese Souffle, Tomato Sauce 

Swiss Chard Summer Squash 

Prune-and-Orange Marmalade Jelly 

Whipped Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Black Bean Soup, Croutons 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Cream Pie Raspberries Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

French Omelet 

Hashed Brow^n Potatoes 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Veal Pot Pie 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

(for dumplings) 

Buttered Onions 

New Beets 

Caramel Custard Renversee 

Half Cups of Coffee 

42 



Supper 

Eggs a la King (chafing dish) 

Toast 

Lettuce and Mustard Leaves, 

French Dressing 

Little Fruit Cakes 

Berries Tea 



Simple Menus for Family of Two 

Variety is the spice of food just as much as of life 



SUNDAY 
Breakfast 

Berries, Thin Cream 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Coffee or Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Baked Potatoes 

Lettuce and Peppergrass, 

French Dressing 

Half the recipe Raspberry Parfait 

Drop Cookies 

Supper 

Asparagus on Toast 

Stewed Cherries 

Cookies Tea 

MONDAY 
Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

French Omelet, with Asparagus 

Toast 

Coffee or Cocoa 

Dinner 

Buy 4 lbs. forequarter Lamb, 

Use scrag end for Lamb Stew 

Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Custard Renversee 

(2 eggs, 1 cup milk, Jcup sugar) 

Cookies 

Supper 

Hot Toast Rye Bread 

Stewed Prunes, Stuffed with 

Neufchatel Cheese, Cream 

Sponge Jelly Roll Tea 

TUESDAY 
Breakfast 

Salt Codfish, Creamed, on Toast 

Poached Eggs above 

Berries Coffee or Cocoa 

Dinner 

Best Half of Lamb 

Steamed, Caper Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Turnips 

Blueberry Betty 

Supper 

Lamb Stew (left over) 

Bread and Butter 

Sponge Jelly Roll Tea 

WEDNESDAY 
Breakfast 

Breaded Tomatoes, Fried 

Sprinkled with Grated Cheese 

Coffee Pop Overs Cocoa 

Dinner 

Small Lamb Pie 

Boiled Onions 

Cress and Sliced Radishes, 

French Dressing 

Prune Souffle, Custard Sauce 



Supper 

Peanut Butter Sandwiches 

Berries Oatmeal Macaroons 

Hot Tea 

THURSDAY 
Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon, Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Graham Muffins 

Orange Marmalade 

Coffee or Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Cutlets, Tomato Sauce 

Buttered Beets 

Creamed Potatoes 

Cherry Pie 

Supper 

Sardines 

Potato Salad, with Chopped Beets 

Lady Finger Rolls 

(reheated) 

Berries 

Tea 

FRIDAY 
Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Shredded Cutlet in Tomato Sauce 

in Ramekins 

(left over) 

Poached Eggs above 

Toast 

Coffee or Cocoa 

Dinner 

Half of Bluefish, Broiled 

Mashed Potatoes 

Sliced Pickled Beets 

Green Peas 

Coffee Jelly 

or 

Raspberry Sherbet 

Supper 

Mayonnaise of Sliced Eggs and Lettuce 

Bread and Butter 

Scotch Scones 

Cocoa 

SATURDAY 
Breakfast 

Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream 

Hot Bacon Sandwiches 

Coffee or Cocoa 

Dinner 

Emergency Soup 

Bluefish Croquettes 

Green Peas 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Rhubarb or Lemon Pie 

Supper 

Baked Potatoes 

Broiled Bacon 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Berries Cake 

Tea 



43 




Our Daily Bread, or 
Preparation in Detail of the Meals of One Day 

Family of Two Adults and Two Children 

By Janet M. Hill 



SATURDAY 

Breakfast 

Strawberries, French Fashion 

Thin Shces Cold Beef Tenderloin 

French Fried Potatoes 

Cold Bread Radishes 

Cereal Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal en Casserole 

Cabbage-and-Green Pepper Salad 

Steamed Raspberry Pudding 

Raspberry Hard Sauce 

or, Raspberry Parfait, Drop Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Stringbean Salad with Sliced Eggs 

Lady Finger Rolls Almond Cake 

Raspberries Tea 

THE potatoes, made ready for fry- 
ing Friday night, are quickly 
dried while the fat is heating; 
coffee and cocoa are made ready for the 
boiling water and the radishes are 
scrubbed and set into a nest of crushed 
ice. All perfect leaves are retained on 
the crisp radishes that the leaf and root 
may be eaten together, the leaf being 
thought an aid to digestion of the root. 
Radishes, pulled from the fresh, moist 
earth just before breakfast is served, 
may be eaten by those who never in- 



dulge in those brought from the market. 

A teaspoonful of sifted, powdered 
sugar is piled in the center of small 
plates and around the sugar, on each 
plate, six or eight choice strawberries, 
with perfect hulls, are disposed. A 
small, soft brush should be used to free 
the berries and hulls from any chance 
grains of sand. These and the cold meat 
left from dinner on Friday, cut in thin 
slices, may be set in place on the break- 
fast table without delay. A few sprigs 
of cress or parsley, preferably the first, 
will enhance the looks of this dish. 

For the cereal griddle cakes, cold 
boiled rice or a "ready-to-eat" cereal 
may be used. Do not mix the cakes un- 
til the potatoes are fried, but have all 
the ingredients measured and at hand. 
The ingredients are : One cup of cereal, 
one cup of buttermilk, half a teaspoon- 
ful, each, of salt and soda, one egg 
beaten light, one cup of sifted flour and 
one level teaspoonful of baking powder. 

Now fry the potatoes; do not put too 
many in the fat at once, nor have the fat 
too hot; skim on to soft paper to drain 
at the oven door, then, when all are fried 
tender, reheat the fat and return the po- 
tatoes to color them a little; drain a sec- 
ond time, season with salt and send at 
once to the table. 

To make the griddle cakes, beat the 
egg in the mixing bowl; add the rice. 



44 



OUR DAILY BREAD 



45 



pressed through a vegetable press, or the 
cereal just as it is taken from the pack- 
age. Stir the soda into the buttermilk 
(or sour milk) until it is foamy through- 
out; add to the other ingredients with 
the salt, flour and baking powder sifted 
together, and mix all together thor- 
oughly. Bake at once on a well-oiled 
griddle. Send the cakes to the table as 
soon as one baking is taken from the 
griddle. Sweet milk may be used, by 
omitting the soda and adding another 
teaspoonful of baking powder with the 
flour. 

After breakfast attend to the fire and 
bake the cake and cookies; part of the 
cake may be set aside in an earthen jar 
for Sunday. First of all start the sponge 
for the rolls; if this has been done be- 
fore breakfast, the final mixing may now 
take place. For the sponge, mix a cake 
of compressed yeast with one-fourth a 
cup of scalded-and-cooled milk, then add 
to one cup of scalded-and-cooled milk 
with about one cup and a half of bread 
flour; beat very thoroughly, then cover 
and set aside to become light and puffy. 
Do not set this sponge on the hot shelf 
of the range, nor in a draught of air. 
When the sponge is well risen, add the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, (the whites 
are used for the cake), half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of melted 
shortening, one tablespoonful of sugar, 
and about two cups of bread flour, then 
mix to a soft dough. Knead about fif- 
teen minutes, cover and set aside to 
double in bulk. In three or four hours 
the dough will be ready to shape. Turn 
it upon a board, upper side down, and 
divide into pieces of about two ounces, 
each. Knead these into balls, and set 
them on a board lightly dredged with 
flour, a little distance apart; cover 
closely with the mixing bowl that they 
may not crust over. When very light, 
roll each ball on the board, under the 
fingers, to make long rolls pointed at 
each end. Use more pressure on the 
dough at the ends than in the middle and 
the right shape will be easily secured. 



Set the pointed rolls on a buttered sheet, 
some distance apart. When light, with 
a pair of scissors make three transverse 
cuts in the top of each roll. Bake about 
twenty . minutes. When nearly baked 
brush over with white of egg (beaten 
slightly) and return to the oven to set 
the glaze. Part of the rolls should be 
set aside to be reheated on Sunday. 

When the rolls are kneaded and set 
aside, the cake may be mixed and baked, 
that the oven be ready for the veal to 
be cooked for dinner. Use the recipe 
for white cake, given in the "Seasonable 
Recipes ;" bake in two layer-cake pans 
12x7 or 9x9. Have ready half a cup of 
blanched almonds, split in halves ; set 
these into one of the layers in rows, side 
by side ; press only one long edge of the 
half nuts into the cake, (let the other 
emerge), dredge with granulated sugar, 
then bake about eighteen minutes. The 
decorated layer is for the upper layer ; 
put the two layers together with a boiled 
frosting, made of three-fourths a cup of 
sugar, one-third a cup of boiling water 
and the white of one egg; add one- 
fourth a cup of chopped (blanched) al- 
monds and half a teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. 

Do not frost the cake at this time ; 
bake the cookies — then get the veal into 
the oven. Or, as the veal should cook 
between three and four hours, start the 
veal before making the cookies ; the veal 
can cook in the casserole on the top of 
the range until the oven is available. 

For the drop cookies, use half a cup 
of butter, one cup of sugar, one egg, 
beaten light, — or the two yolks still left 
over from the cake, half a cup of sour 
cream, or rich buttermilk, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of soda, two cups and one 
half of sifted flour, and three level tea- 
spoonfuls and one-half of baking pow- 
der. Mix in the usual manner, stirring 
the soda into the cream or buttermilk. 
Drop from a spoon and shape into a 
smooth round. Dredge with granulated 
sugar. Bake in a moderate oven. 

For the veal, two and a half pounds 



46 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



from the breast, or a single slice from 
the round (steak) may be used. After 
cutting the meat in small pieces (about 
two inches and a half square), roll it in 
flour, then saute in fat, tried out of salt 
pork, until browned a little, then transfer 
to the casserole; rinse the frying pan 
with boiling broth or water, to remove 
all the meat glaze, and pour this liquid 
over the meat; add also enough more 
liquid to cover the meat, set the cover in 
place and let the meat cook very gently 
on the top of the range or in the oven. 
Scrape a bunch of new carrots and peel 
four to six onions; peel and quarter 
about six small potatoes; let all the vege- 
tables stand in cold water until time for 
cooking; the onions should be put into 
the casserole one hour and a half before 
dinner, the potatoes and carrots, about 
half an hour before. Add salt and pap- 
rika to season when the potatoes are 
added. Half a cup of tomato puree or 
two tablespoonfuls of chili sauce or cat- 
sup or Worcestershire sauce may, also, 
be added. Send the meat to the table in 
the casserole. 

The pudding is to steam one hour and 
a half, thus it must be set to cook about 
an hour and a quarter before the hour 
of serving dinner. It is mixed in the 
same manner as a cake; the berries are 
put in, here and there, as the batter is 
turned into the mold. Do not crush the 
berries by stirring them into the batter. 
A three-pint melon mold gives a well- 
shaped pudding, but an empty coffee can 
answers the purpose. The ingredients 
are one-third a cup of butter, half a cup 
of sugar, two egg-yolks, two cups of 
flour, two slightly rounding teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, half a cup of milk or water, two 
egg-whites, beaten dry, and one cup of 
raspberries. Serve with a hard sauce, 
made of half a cup of butter, one cup 
of powdered sugar, the white of one egg, 
beaten dry, and about half a cup of rasp- 
berry puree, (raspberries crushed and 
pressed through a sieve.) Cream the 
butter and add the other ingredients in 



the order enumerated. We have given, 
as a substitute for the pudding and sauce, 
a raspberry parfait and the drop cookies 
before referred to. The parfait is a 
more expensive dish than the pudding, 
though in the country where cream is 
available at less cost than in the city, the 
expense need not prohibit the dish. The 
ingredients for one quart arc a scant pint 
of cream, one cup of raspberry puree, 
three-fourths a cup of sugar and a scant 
tablespoonful of gelatine, softened in 
one-fourth a cup of raspberry juice and 
dissolved over hot water. Sometimes a 
cup and a half of cream is sufficient. 
Beat the cream pretty firm. Add the 
dissolved gelatine and the sugar to the 
raspberry pulp and juice, and stir over 
ice water until the mixture thickens 
slightly, then gradually fold in the cream. 
Have a quart mold (one with two cov- 
ers is the most convenient), partly 
packed in salt and crushed ice, lined with 
paper, turn in the mixture, cover, then 
carefully invert the mold and return to 
the freezing mixture. Inverting the mold 
helps to do away with a layer of frozen 
mixture, at the bottom, more firm in tex- 
ture than that in the rest of the mold. 
The mold should stand about three 
hours, and be turned over and repacked 
after one hour and a half. 

Crisp the cabbage for the salad at 
dinner in cold water, then dry and shred 
both cabbage and pepper exceedingly 
fine; let both be reduced to threads 
rather than to Julienne shapes ; season 
with salt and pepper and then with 
French dressing. One of the yolks left 
from the cake may be used in making 
Mayonnaise dressing, but while this is 
palatable with cabbage, the dressing is 
too rich for a dinner salad. 

The string beans and eggs for the 
salad may be prepared in the morning, 
then at night the preparation of the sup- 
per will take but a few minutes. The 
egg slicer shown in our May number will 
cut an egg into more slices than can be 
cut in any other way, and the slices will 
be exactly uniform in thickness. 



Some Elementary Principles of Dietetics 

By Lawrence Irwell, M. A.; B. C. L. 



APART from the labor of every- 
day life in which brain and mus- 
cle engage, an immense amount 
of work is done in the mere act of keep- 
ing alive. Nowhere in Nature is work 
done without proportionate waste, or 
wear and tear of the machine that does 
the work. This assertion is as true of 
the human body as of the locomotive, 
and just as the machine — whatever it 
may be — must be supplied with condi- 
tions necessary for the production of 
force, so the living body similarly de- 
mands a supply of material from which 
its energy — the power of doing the work 
— can be derived. As the locomotive ob- 
tains the necessary conditions from the 
fuel and water that it consumes, so the 
living body derives its energy from the 
food on which it subsists. Food, there- 
fore, is anything taken from the outside 
world from which the human body de- 
rives the substances required for the 
repair of the waste which the continual 
work of life entails. In the young, food 
serves another purpose — it provides ma- 
terial for growth, and it also affords 
substance from which the supply of 
force is derived. In the adult, while 
food supplies actual loss of substance, it 
is especially devoted to the duty of main- 
taining that equilibrium between waste 
and repair which constitutes health. 

Turning to general rules for scientific 
meal-taking, the most important rule is 
founded upon the obvious fact that we 
must find in our foods the substances 
necessary for the repair of our bodies 
and for the production of the energy 
through which work is performed. Food 
substances, from this point of view, fall 
into two well-defined classes — those that 
contain nitrogen and those that do not 
contain nitrogen. Another classification 
divides them into organic and inorganic, 
the former being derived from animals 



and plants, the latter from the mass of 
non-living matter — so-called — with which 
the world abounds. Flesh of animals, 
fish and vegetables represent organic 
food ; water and minerals represent in- 
organic food materials. From living 
matter alone do we derive the substances 
that are essential to the generation of 
force. Nevertheless, water and minerals 
are necessary for the support of the 
body; they assist in carrying on the 
chemical changes which are continually 
taking place within the body, and they 
are, of course, essential constituents of 
the body. 

Taking the usual classification of foods 
into nitrogenous and non-nitrogenous, 
we find examples of the first class in 
such substances as albumen, seen almost 
daily in the "white" of egg, casein found 
in milk, gluten, obtained from flour, etc. 
All these substances are very similar in 
chemical composition, and it seems as if 
the process of digestion reduces them to 
an almost identical state. For this rea- 
son, they can, to some extent, replace 
each other in the diet of mankind. The 
nitrogenous foods are sometimes called 
flesh-formers, and the name is a suitable 
one for, as the result of experiment, we 
have learned that the chief duty of 
albumen and allied substances is that of 
building up and repairing the tissues of 
the body. The substances referred to 
produce heat as a consequence of being 
chemically changed during the process 
of disintegration, and in this way they, 
to some extent, aid in the production of 
force and energ}^ The so-called nitro- 
genous foods are composed chemically of 
the four elements, nitrogen, carbon, oxy- 
gen and hydrogen, the presence of the 
first element giving the characteristic 
name. 

The non-nitrogenous foods include 
four groups, viz;— (1) starches and 



47 



48 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



sugars; (2) oils and fats; (3) minerals; 
(4) water. The starches and sugars in- 
clude not only starch and sugar as we 
know them, but also some gums • and 
some acids, such as acetic and lactic. 
Group (1) includes all substances techni- 
cally classed as carbohydrates, which 
contain in addition to carbon, oxygen 
and hydrogen in the proportion in which 
they are found in water. These foods 
maintain animal heat and give energy to 
the animal frame. Although starch as 
found in bread and potatoes is a most 
useful food, the heat creating power of 
all starches is inferior to that of fats and 
oils. The carbohydrates assist in the 
digestion of the nitrogenous foods, 
but the manner in which they do so has 
not yet been satisfactorily explained. 
Starches and sugars are in some degree 
fattening foods, therefore persons who 
are too heavy for their height and build 
should consume them in moderation. 
Excessive fat is, in most persons, prob- 
ably due to insufficient oxidation, that 
is, burning-up of the food which is eaten, 
but as a rule excessive consumption of 
food, especially of the carbohydrates, 
plays some part in the creation of 
obesity. That oils and fats are heat- 
producers is shown by the experience of 
mankind in the large consumption of 
those articles of diet by the inhabitants 
of cold countries. Further, fats being 
chemically burned in the body give rise 
to the force which we exert in ordinary 
muscular work. Again, the fatty por- 
tions of our diet assist in the duty of 
removing waste products from the or- 
gans. As to the heat-creating power of 
fats compared with starches and sugars, 
the former may be regarded as very 
much superior, the figures being about 
2y2 to 1. 

The mineral parts of our diet perform 
an important duty in the maintenance of 
the frame. We require iron for the 
blood, phosphorus for the nerves, lime 
for the bones. Other minerals are found 
in the fluids of the body, but their use 
has not been accurately determined. It 



is certain, however, that although the 
quantity of some minerals — potash for 
example — required for the work of the 
human body is extremely small, derange- 
ment of health follows complete depriva- 
tion of them. Common salt (chloride of 
sodium) is an ingredient of many of the 
secretions, and it assists the formation 
and chemical integrity of the gastric 
juice of the stomach. But some persons 
eat too much of it, with the result that 
the kidneys are overworked in its ex- 
cretion, and serious disease makes its 
appearance. 

Water is, of course, a food of para- 
mount importance, for it can in the ab- 
sence of all other nourishment sustain 
life for many days. Although a man 
is almost certain to die in less than ten 
(lays if deprived of solid food and of 
water, yet he may live for fifty days up- 
on water alone. The great importance 
of water may be demonstrated by the 
following facts. It constitutes about 
two-thirds of the weight of the body ; it 
enters, into the weight of the brain to 
the extent of eighty per cent ; bones con- 
tain ten per cent of it; seventy-five per 
cent of the blood is water. Entering in- 
to the composition of every fluid and 
tissue of the body, and being perpetually 
given ofif by means of the kidneys, lungs 
and skin, there is little wonder that wa- 
ter is absolutely essential to health. It 
dissolves other foods and conveys them 
to the different parts of the human sys- 
tem; it assists in removing waste pro- 
ducts, and it also shares in regulating the 
temperature of the body through its 
evaporation. Water is the only fluid 
which is a necessity of life, coflfee, tea 
and other beverages being luxuries. 
They cannot be called foods in the strict 
sense of the term. Many men and 
women do not drink enough water to 
keep the kidneys in an active, healthy 
condition. For an adult, six ordinary 
tumblersful may be sufficient for a day 
and a night in cold weather, but in sum- 
mer eight tumblersful is about the min- 
imum quantity that should be drunk in 



ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES OF DIETETICS 



49 



twenty-four hours. 

Drinking-water in most cities of the 
United States and Canada, and in coun- 
try places, is not safe until it has been 
boiled and then allowed to stand. The 
sediment, if there is any, should be 
thrown away. Few filters are as safe 
as the boiling process, and a filter which 
cannot be cleaned is worse than no filter 
at all. Most cases of typhoid fever come 
from drinking contaminated water, and 
if every one boiled the drinking-water, 
there would be few cases of typhoid. 
The general appearance of water has lit- 
tle to do with its qualities so far as 
drinking it is concerned. Although clear, 
it may be literally loaded with the 
microbes which cause the serious disease 
just mentioned, sometimes called enteric 
fever. To boil all drinking water used in 
a house may cause considerable trouble, 
but by so-doing health will be improved, 
doctors' and druggists' bills will be re- 
duced, and the undertaker's visit may be 
postponed. Our national death-rate from 
typhoid fever is now about twenty-three 
per hundred thousand of population. 

The supposition that our muscles lose 
substance and consequently waste away 
is a mistake. On the other hand, they 
consume nitrogen and grow as a conse- 
quence. The exhaustion of the muscles 
is due not so much to chemical waste as 
to accumulation of the waste products 
of certain foods. The muscles are in 
reality the agents by which so much 
energy, always derived from food, is 
converted into actual and applied force. 
If the muscles wasted their substance, as 
was believed many years ago, and as a 
few people still imagine, the heart would 
be consumed by its own work within a 
few weeks. 

The natural laws which are necessary 
for the regulation of life and the pres- 
ervation of health in the matter of food- 
taking now demand consideration. For 
the proper support of the human system 
a combination of nitrogenous and non- 
nitrogenous foods is essential. The ac- 
curacy of this statement is proved by 



the fact that milk, upon which the infant 
grows rapidly, is a combination of both 
classes of foods. The Qgg of the 
chicken, also, is a combination of both 
classes. But neither milk nor eggs with- 
out other foods can be regarded as a 
suitable diet for adults. Some carbohy- 
drate — bread or potatoes, for example, 
and some fat, such as butter, fat of meat, 
cream or olive oil, should be added. A 
thoroughly satisfactory diet can best be 
obtained by the use of both animal and 
vegetable foods in reasonable proportion. 
The chief objection to a strictly vegeta- 
rian diet is that, in order to obtain suffi- 
cient nitrogenous food, unnecessarily 
large quantities of carbohydrates must 
be eaten. Upon the other hand, semi- 
vegetarians, persons who exclude flesh 
foods, but who eat animal products — 
eggs, milk, cheese — have a satisfactory 
bill-of-fare, from the point of view of 
the chemical composition of the articles 
consumed. This, however, is only one 
aspect of the diet question, and there is 
no diet which will agree with all adults, 
because individual idiosyncrasy naturally 
plays a very important part in the regu- 
lation of meals — a subject upon which 
instinct is more reliable than reason. 
Certain vegetables, peas, ''navy" beans 
and lentils are highly nitrogenous, but 
they are not easy to digest -when eaten 
in large quantities, as they must be if 
substituted for animal products or flesh 
foods. Moreover, as compared with the 
latter, only a small part of the albumen 
of the vegetables is utilized by the human 
system, the remainder being excreted in 
much the same condition as when eaten. 
From food alone can we obtain the 
energy required for the discharge of the 
duties of life. An important question, 
therefore, arises concerning the differ- 
ences which varying conditions and 
amount of work necessarily entail. An 
adult man during complete idleness 
should obtain from his food in support 
of his body about two ounces of nitro- 
genous material (often called protein) in 
twenty-four hours, and, in addition, one- 



50 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and-a-half ounces of fat, and eight 
ounces of carbohydrates. This consti- 
tutes a very low diet. If the same adult 
is to work in the ordinary way, the 
quantity of nitrogenous food should be 
increased to three ounces, fat to at least 
two ounces, carbohydrates to not less 
than ten ounces. These may be regarded 
as minimum quantities and are below 
what are consumed by most moderate 
eaters. Both age and sex have an im- 
portant bearing upon the daily quantity 
of food which each individual requires. 
Men, being as a rule larger than women, 
generally require about one-tenth more 
food than their wives and sisters, but 
there are many exceptions to this rule. 
As the growing bodies of children must 
be provided with material for the build- 
ing-up of new tissue, every healthy child 
should consume more food in proportion 



to work and weight than an adult, and 
almost every close observer has seen 
growing boys who eat very great quanti- 
ties of meat, bread, butter and vegetables 
with apparent benefit when taking a large 
amount of exercise every day. Infants 
under nine months old cannot digest 
starchy food, consequently none should 
be given them. The proper food for 
them is milk. The brain worker's food 
ought to be provided in smaller bulk, in 
more easily digested form, and in more 
concentrated shape, than that of the man 
who works with his hands in the open 
air, and whose digestion is usually more 
active than that of the brain worker. 
This subject, however, is too technical 
for discussion here, and enough has been 
said to show how extensive a field is oc- 
cupied by the subject of nutrition in re- 
lation to general hygiene. 



Electricity in a Country Kitchen 

By Alice E. Whitaker 



THE unaccustomed expense always 
seems more like an extravagance 
than one which is an every day 
outgo. Few housekeepers know the act- 
ual cost of the fuel that they use; coal 
for both furnace and kitchen range may 
be included in one bill and, where gas 
is used, the expense of lighting, cooking 
and possibly heating will be combined in 
one account. Even if the kitchen fuel 
bill is rendered separately, the cost of 
laundry work aside from cooking cannot 
be computed. 

Whenever I speak of cooking by elec- 
tricity, the question is sure to come, "But 
don't you find it expensive?" It is true 
that electricity may be a costly fuel 
through lack of knowing how to use it, 
but the novice in using coal will run a 
ton a month through a kitchen range, 
while an experienced hand will make 
half a ton do the same work. 



Living for six months during the past 
year in a locality not yet reached by gas 
and in a house without a kitchen range, 
I used electricity in cooking for two peo- 
ple and in the ironing which did not in- 
clude the flat work; this was sent out 
to be done. Continuous hot water was 
secured by connection with the furnace. 
The cooking was planned to meet the 
special needs and taste of the small fam- 
ily and not with any particular attempt 
to cut the use of the fuel to the lowest 
point. With four in the family, all the 
heat would have been utilized and the 
expense would not have been much more. 

My outfit consists of a flat iron with 
a small stand on which to reverse it for 
cooking purposes, a four and a half inch 
"stove" and an oven that holds two 
loaves of bread or a four pound roast 
or a chicken, without crowding. My bill 
for electricity averaged ninety cents a 



ELECTRICITY IN A COUNTRY KITCHEN 



51 



week, at a rate of five cents a kilowatt 
hour, after discount for prompt payment. 
This is the special price for cooking and 
heating, not the lighting rate, in that 
town where coal is eight dollars a ton 
and gas $1.25 a thousand cubic feet. 

My own experience proves electricity 
to be a moderate-priced fuel, at five or 
six cents a kilowatt hour. In addition, it 
is a fuel without dust, ashes or smoke, 
hence using it reduces expense and labor 
of keeping clean and, with the scarcity 
of domestic workers, this is a money 
saving that cannot be overlooked. No 
one should use electricity for cooking 
and heating without securing the power 
rate and a separate meter from that 
which measures the lighting current. 

It takes a little longer to boil a given 
amount of water by electricity than by 
gas, but the electrical oven heats as 
quickly as when gas is used. Such an 
oven is built to conserve heat and, ob- 
viously, like all other ovens, it should be 
kept clean in order to do its best work. 
In addition to a frequent brushing out, 
it should be wiped out occasionally with 
a cloth wrung from soap and water and 
then it will keep as clean as a new pan. 
This care should always be given, after 
roasting or oven broiling fat meats, and 
is really no more attention than should 
be given to the oven of an ordinary 
range. 

The only criticism that I make of my 
electrical oven is the tendency to bake 
bread and cake a little too hard on the 
under side, but by using a sheet of as- 
bestos paper under the pan the heat is 
easily controlled. To make this control 
more complete, the button that turns the 
current on marks "full," "medium" or 
low," thus making it possible to bake 
very quickly or to secure the low tem- 
perature needed for anything like a 
meringue. 

Considerable expense is saved in using 
electricity as a fuel, if care is taken to 



cook one item immediately after another, 
when convenient to do so, for this pre- 
vents the need of re-heating the stove 
or oven. The greatest source of loss of 
heat comes from ill-fitting dishes. All 
utensils should come in close contact 
with the stove or heating surface, and a 
dish that rounds up or rocks a little is 
most extravagant to use, while it might 
be all right over a gas flame. 

It is not necessary to have an expens- 
ive outfit and pay five dollars, for in- 
stance, for a specially made dish that 
can be substituted at small cost. I have 
found at the ten-cent stores a round tin 
dish that rested closely on the electric 
stove and, by placing a plate or cover on 
it, cooking can be done at a very little 
loss of heat. It is best to select alumi- 
num dishes that fit the stove, and see 
that they are not allowed to be burned 
and warped. A coffee percolator fits 
closely to the surface and is used just as 
economically as over any other fuel. 

My electrical outfit, therefore, gives me 
less trouble than a chafing dish and has 
the possibilities of the ordinary kitchen 
range ; it eliminates drudgery and invites 
me to put more thought into the cook- 
ing. After once heating well and then 
turning back to the low current, the oven 
gives some of the possibilities of a fire- 
less cooker. 

The belief is too common that an elec- 
trically heated flatiron must necessarily 
scorch clothes, and this false notion 
keeps some women from buying a won- 
derful convenience. A careless ironer 
will scorch her clothes even with a wood 
fire, and a woman of the same tempera- 
ment will keep the current turned on 
continuously when using electricity. The 
proper way is to turn the current off, 
now and then, as the iron grows too hot. 
An electrical flat iron heats in less than 
five minutes; it does not heat the hand 
and there is no waiting at intervals as 
with other fuel. 



"^^^yif^ 



Dressing the Table Board 

By Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



AT this ^^easuii of the year the 
thrifty housewife can scarcely 
use her time to better advan- 
tage than by taking a careful inventory 
of her linen closet. The mid-summer sales 
of household and table damasks are cer- 
tainly worth while events as often very 
superior linens may be purchased at a 
great saving in price. And, oh, the tempt- 
ing beauty and variety of patterns with 
which the present-day designer inveigles 
even the unneeding! Here, a delicate 
tracery of vines and blossoms, there, 
acorns, autunni leaves, each and all sum- 
moned most alluringly to his handicraft. 
Recently, at one of our large house-fur- 
nishing emporiums, I saw the whole pa- 
geantry of the seasons outlined in the 
damask display. There were snowdrops, 
rushes, windflowers, jonquils, violets, 
ferns, roses, water-lilies, poppies, autumn 
leaves, chrysanthemums and holly — a 
veritable reproduction in white of Mother 
Nature's twelve months' weaving. 

To the uninitiated, it came somewhat 
as a revelation to learn that, primarily, 
each thread in these cloths had actually 
been counted and numbered for weft and 
woof. This is first taken into considera- 
tion by the designers ere they set to work 
to originate designs on paper, which are 
made several sizes larger than the fin- 
ished product. It is then the work of the 
pattern makers to put the design in per- 
forated cards with hole spaces for each 
perforation that the loom needle wdll re- 
quire to reproduce the pattern. Yet, my 
lady who revels in the novelty of some 
unique design of table linen has much to 
learn of the wearisome intricacies of its 
production, and is appalled when she as- 
certains that this self-same pattern may 
have cost the manufacturers anywhere 
from five hundred to five thousand dol- 
lars before it left the loom. 

Nor does she take time to recall that it 



is no less a dignitary than the humble 
"heathen Chinee" to whom we owe the 
idea of manufacturing damask, for it was 
he who first thought of ornamenting silk- 
en webs with a pattern. Then, gradually, 
the recorders tell us, India, Persia, Syria 
and Byzantine Greece followed. About 
the twelfth century the city of Damascus, 
long celebrated for its looms, began to 
turn out fabrics that far outstripped all 
other places in beauty of design. These 
silken textiles were everywhere in tre- 
mendous demand, and traders very soon 
fastened upon them the distinguishing 
name of Damascen or Damask. Eventu- 
ally evolved the thought of similarly or- 
namenting linen materials, so ensuing 
years witnessed the extension of the 
name ''damask" from silken to linen fa- 
bric, till today the w^ord generally implies, 
as the dictionaries inform us, "a twilled 
linen texture richly figured in the weav- 
ing with fruits, flowers and ornamental 
designs." 

Looking at the enticing array of lunch- 
eon sets, consisting of centerpiece, doylies 
and serviettes, some in heavy linen em- 
broidered in the Madeira pattern, others 
in tinted damasks and exquisite lace- 
trimmed conceits, one fully realizes how 
boldly the festive touch of modern times 
contrasts with the snowy simplicity of the 
colonial period. It, indeed, seems a far 
cry to the days when our foremothers 
spun, wove and bleached their own 
"board-cloths," for the dining-tables of 
the colonists were very unlike our pres- 
ent ones. They w^ere long and narrow, 
many not more than three feet wide, with 
no legs attached. They were laid on 
supports or trestles much like the cus- 
tomary sawhorse. So this olden piece of 
furniture was literally a board, and was 
always referred to as the table-board. 

Yet, the early colonists were doubt- 
lessly more liberally provided with nap- 



52 






DRESSING THE TABLE BOARD 



S3 



kins than families of corresponding 
means are today. There was urgent 
need of these, when one recollects that, at 
the time America was first settled, forks 
were almost unknown to the English 
people. Hands were employed for the 
holding of food, which made the colonial 
napkin an article of constant necessity. 
The first fork brought to America was 
for Governor John W'inthrop, in Boston, 
in 1633. There is nothing to show that 
the Governor regarded it in any other 
than the light of curiosity, and if by 
chance he used it at table, he was, with- 
out question, the only one in the colony 
who did. Thirty or forty years later a 
few two-tined iron and silver forks were 
brought across the ocean, and used in 
New York and \'irginia, as well as in 
Massachusetts, and by the end of that 
century they had found their way into 
some of the homes of wealth and fash- 
ion. An old inventory dated 1677 makes 
first mention of a fork ever being used 
in X'irginia. 

Nevertheless, long before the introduc- 
tion of the fork, there existed among our 
forebears a distinct code of good man- 
ners which were to be rigidly obser\'ed 
by the elect. Some of the quaint admo- 
nitions make highly amusing reading. 
From Erasmus 1467-1537, we are ad- 
vised to "seize with three fingers all you 
want to take from the table", and from 
the "Book of Conveniency", we are cau- 
tioned to "Never touch your nose with 
the hand in which you hold your meat". 

To a certain degree it seems that we 
are reverting to a few of the old-time 
customs now that it is considered good 
form to eat several foods such as lettuce, 
asparagus, etc., with the fingers. Never 
before, too, have napkins come in such a 
varied assortment of sizes and designs. 
Popular favor, however, still lends its 
endorsement to the twenty-two inch size 
napkin for ordinary daily dinner usage. 

So many of the attractive square cloths 
come in the effective circular patterns 
that the centerpiece is fast becoming 
superfluous. Striped table linen, not- 



withstanding, retains its vogue and the 
stripes are to be found in all widths from 
the veriest hair line to the broad bar 
effect. This season off'ers a variation in 
the diagonal stripe to supplement the 
well-known horizontal. 

The much seen Cluny and Filet lace 
luncheon sets continue to bespeak their 
hold on present fancy, while some very 
unusual sets of drawn-work leave noth- 
ing to be desired in the way of dainti- 
ness. These are to be found in both 
round and square shapes and often some 
of the choicest patterns are to be discov- 
ered at the Japanese bazaars, curio shops 
and Women's Exchanges. 

A pretty hem-stitched breakfast cloth 
comes with a bit of old blue in the scroll- 
like border design; this is, of course, re- 
ju^ated in the accompanying serviettes 
which are fifteen inches square. 

A home-made breakfast cloth that 
savors some of German thrift, but which 
seems to help to start the day right, is 
made of three breadths of common blue- 
barred tea toweling, sewed together and 
feather-stitched with the same shade of 
blue cotton. A hem of one and one-half 
inches is made about the edge of thi^ 
:^quare which is also feather-stitched. 
When used with certain blue patterned 
or blue bordered china and an appropri- 
ate floral decoration it lends a suggestion 
of novelty and variety that is most re- 
freshing. The red-barred toweling may 
be likewise treated, and for a porch 
breakfast on a June morning, with scarlet 
carnations and asparagus vine for the 
center, with individual dishes of home- 
grown luscious strawberries at each 
place, it indeed seems to sustain the note 
of "homey" cheeriness as nothing else 
can. 

Another cloth which lends itself most 
admirably to breakfast, the informal 
porch luncheon, or even the Sunday 
evening supper, is the Japanese blue and 
w'hite cotton square. These come in a 
wide variety of patterns with hem- 
stitched napkins to match. Where the 
laundrv work is done at home, this cloth 



54 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



is a decidedly satisfactory investment as 
it launders both well and easily and when 
graced with Japanese narcissus, a few 
clusters of freshly gathered cherry blos- 
soms, white iris, or any other simple 
white flower suggestive of the Orient, it 
furnishes another artistic change for the 
table at very slight expenditure. 

Of course, for dinner service, nothing 
but white should be used and one must 
search far and wide to find anything to 
supersede a fine piece of Irish damask 



with generous sized napkins, both of 
which bear the imprint of the owner's 
monogram embroidered in pure white. 
"There is a majesty in simplicity", runs 
the old truism, and nowhere is it more 
conclusively proven than in the treatment 
accorded the dining table appointments. 

Dressing the board attractively is, in- 
deed, an act — a twin complement of good 
cookery. Taken together, they form a 
joint appeal to taste and sight that rarely 
fails to spell appetite. 



The Wooing of the Wind-FIower 



Come, play with me. 
Anemone, 
Within the woodland shady ; 

I will unfold 

A warrior bold, 
And thou shall be my lady. 

Why tremblest thee, 
Anemone? 
As though some fear half-forming? 

Still dost thou hear 

So strong and clear 
Thy father March fierce storming? 



Why droopest thee, 
Anemone? 
As though some sorrow keeping' 

Dost thy heart kind 

Still bear in mind 
Thy mother April's weeping? 

Come, let's be gay 

For this is May : 
I'll gird thy waist so slender; 

None but the thrush 

Will see the blush 
That lights thy face, so tender. 



Nay, look no doubt 
That Time will flout 

My vows with too harsh trying 
As true to thee 
Anemone, 

I'll be when snows are flying. 



Charles Elmer Jenney. 



How Cynthia Spicer Learned to Cook 

A True Story of the Wilderness a Hundred Years Ago 
By Elsie Spicer Eells 



IN the year 1810, Minor Spicer, a car- 
penter of Groton, Conn., journeyed 
westward on horseback and bought 
a tract of land on the Western Reserve 
of Portage County, now Summit County, 
Ohio, a tract of land which now is the 
campus of Bucktel College, Akron, Ohio. 
The family of Minor Spicer consisted of 
his wife, his little daughter Cynthia, and 



two boys younger than Cynthia. In the 
Spring of 1811 he, with others from the 
vicinity of Groton, Conn., took his fam- 
ily and moved west. They travelled in 
ox teams, living in their wagons, cooking 
by the roadside, picking berries and kill- 
ing game. It took six months to make 
the journey. There were members of 
the party to whom these six months 



HOW CYNTHIA SPICER LEARNED TO COOK 



SS 



seemed long, but Cynthia Spicer was not 
one of them. The journey was none 
too long for her. She delighted in the 
g}^psy mode of life. 

At last, the destination was reached. 
Minor Spicer built a log cabin in which 
the family lived for eight years, until it 
was replaced by a model New England 
farmhouse. Cynthia preferred to help 
her father in his work of clearing the 
wilderness rather than to share her 
mother's tasks. It was with difficulty 
that her mother could persuade her to 
take an interest in those household arts, 
so important a part of the training of a 
girl with thrifty New England parentage. 

One day in the year 1814 the son of 
one of the neighbors, some five miles 
away through the wilderness, came to 
the Spicer home. There was no highway 
near the dwelling. A simple bridle path 
led through the almost unbroken forest. 
The boy said that his mother had been 
taken ill and begged that Mrs. Spicer 
would go to her at once. 

"How will you manage without me, 
Cynthia?" asked her mother. "You 
know you are not a very good cook. To- 
morrow is baking day and I am not 
leaving you with the house supplied with 
good things to eat as I would have done, 
had I known I was going away." 

"Never fear, mother," replied Cynthia, 
"I am sure I shall get along all right. If 
I do make mistakes, I can laugh at them 
and try again."- 

"Perhaps it will be a good experience 
for Cynthia to be left alone to do the 
cooking," said Mrs. Spicer to her hus- 
band as he assisted her to mount her 
horse. 

After her mother's departure Cynthia 
busied herself in preparing the evening 
meal. In spite of an optimistic nature, 
she was not exactly proud of her com- 
pleted supper. Fortunately a hard day's 
work in the open air had given her 
father and brothers good appetites and 
they ate uncomplainingly. Just as 
they were finishing the meal the fam- 
ily were startled by the sound of a 



horse stopping at their door. Two 
callers in the same day were unusual. 
"Perhaps mother has come home !" 
cried Cynthia with a sigh of relief. 

It was not the welcome figure of his 
wife, however, that greeted Mr. 
Spicer's gaze as he unbarred the door. 
Instead he saw in the dim light a soli- 
tary Indian on horseback. The Indian 
w^as completely armed and carried up- 
on his horse the carcass of a deer. By 
sounds and oestures he made it under- 
stood that he wished shelter for the 
night. A self-invited guest like that, 
however unwelcome, could not be of- 
fended. There was nothing to do but 
to allow the Indian to dismount, fasten 
his horse for the night, and enter the 
cabin. 

The venison was carried inside and 
by signs the Indian made Cynthia un- 
derstand that he was hungry and 
wished some of the meat prepared for 
his supper. In much trepidation of 
spirit Cynthia cooked the venison as best 
she could. With trembling hands she 
placed it on the table along with the 
remnants of the family supper. The 
Indian ate but little, and, to the anx- 
ious girl who watched him, seemed to 
be displeased. Nothing was said, how- 
ever, and the silent guest soon rolled 
himself in his blanket, lay down on the 
rude hearthstone before the fire, and, to 
all appearances, immediately fell asleep. 

The Spicer family uneasily retired 
to the sleeping room which adjoined 
the room where their swarthy guest 
was reposing. Through a wide aper- 
ture in the wall they could readily see 
the recumbent figure, and, anxious and 
sleepless, their eyes watched for any 
movement. A little after midnight 
they discovered that the figure was 
alert and moving with exceeding cau- 
tion. The Indian sat upright and 
glanced quickly towards the bedroom 
door. He reached carefully for the 
long, murderous-looking hunting knife, 
which he had been thoughtful to place 
within easy reach ere he lay down by 



S6 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the fire, ran his fingers lightly along 
the edge to test its sharpness, softly 
whetted the weapon, tested it again, 
gave a low grunt of satisfaction, still 
keeping a close watch of the bedroom 
door. 

The terrified watchers believed that 
their lives were in danger. Mr. Spicer 
grasped firmly his loaded gun and pre- 
pared to shoot the treacherous guest 
the moment he crossed the threshhold 
of the bedroom. 

The Indian stealthily arose from the 
hearth, grasped his long, sharp knife, 
and glided, swiftly and noiselessly, to- 
ward the bedroom door. 

It was a supreme moment. Mr. 
Spicer held his gun with his finger on 
the trigger. Cynthia and the boys, a 
little behind their father, watched, with 
fascinated eyes and wildly beating 
hearts, the swift approach of the des- 
perate red man. 

On he came with, if possible, a more 
wary tread. He paused an instant to 
listen at the door. Then he glided 
past, crossed to the corner where the 
carcass of the deer had been placed, cut 
a generous slice of venison and carried 



it cautiously back to the fireplace. 
His next movement was to rake open 
the bed of coals and broil the meat. 
He feasted upon it with evident relish, 
giving low grunts of approval, and, 
occasionally, glancing apprehensively 
toward the bedroom door. Then he 
carefully covered the coals, wrapped 
his blanket again about him and lay 
down in peaceful slumber. 

Early in the morning, before it was 
light, he quietly stole away, leaving 
behind a generous portion of the ven- 
ison for his pale faced entertainers. 

When Cynthia's mother returned 
home and heard the account of the 
thrilling night her family had passed 
through in her absence, she declared 
that it was quite time that Cynthia 
learned how to be a better cook. 
Cynthia herself agreed v^ith her 
mother. Soon she became one of the 
best cooks of all the countryside. 
Great-great aunt Cynthia Spicer's reci- 
pes have been handed down in the 
family through the years, and the most 
recent domestic science graduate 
among us cannot suggest any ways in 
which they can be improved. 



Pan. A. Villanelle 



Oh piper of the days agone ! 

Far sounding o'er the sun-kissed height 

Still rings the magic of thy son. 

Or in some purple vale at dawn 

I watch each dancing fawn and sprite, 

Oh piper of the days agone! 



And in the bright-stoled hour of morn 
Upon bloom-incensed breezes light 
Still rings the magic of thy song. 

Sometimes amid the city's throng 
And dissonance I hear thy pipe. 
Oh piper of the days agone ! 



Beside the sounding sea, forlorn, 

By shell-fringed shores, foam-washed and 

white, 
Still rings the magic of thy song. 

On silver wings forever borne 
From far Arcadian woodlands, bright. 
Oh piper of the days agone. 
Still rings the magic of thy song. 

R. R. Greenwood. 



I 




IDEA3 U- 
ECONOiniEr3 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Dixieland Tea Room 



YOU will imagine Dixieland Tea 
Room to be located in the South, 
among the orange-blossoms and magno- 
lias; not so, for it is a Jovely tea-room 
in a middle west city. Two Southern 
women have taken quite a large house, 
on a main residence avenue, in the midst 
of a northern city, and made it a charm- 
ing bit of the Southland. They brought 
a quaint old clock — also candlesticks, 
brasses and a few pieces of old mahog- 
any, and distributed them through the 
lower rooms. The floor rugs are real 
Navajo rugs. On the walls are pictures 
of southern scenes in colors, a couple of 
piccaninnies eating watermelon, an old 
mammy telling fortunes from a quaint 
old china cup, a cotton field in bloom, etc. 
Along a plate rail in one room are postal 
cards of southern scenes. The mantles 
are banked with beautiful branches of 
cotton in bloom, and southern moss, and 
hanging wall pockets of quaint design, 
in basket work or crockery, are filled 
with cotton blooms. At holiday seasons, 
southern foliage and blossoms are sent 
from the south and used for special dec- 
orations. Here they employ colored help, 
the maids wearing brown uniforms. 
The dishes served are mostly southern 
receipts — fried chicken, glazed sweet po- 
tatoes, beaten biscuit, Lady Baltimore 
cake, and many other delicious southern 
dishes. When the colored maid in brown 
uniform is taking your order, and you 
glance around the room, with its riot of 



southern moss and cotton blossoms, and 
note the pieces of old mahogany and 
brasses, you really feel you are in a 
quaint old southern mansion, with its 
quiet dignified service and southern hos- 
pitality. To visit it and partake of its 
delicious southern cooking is a treat to 
the northern people, and a bit of ''home- 
land" for southern people who are lo- 
cated in the city. m. b. s. 
^ ^ ^ 

A Luncheon in Vassar Colors 

IN spring time College girls' thoughts 
turn lightly towards planning fare- 
well luncheons, and other festivities that 
attend the closing exercises of the school 
year; each College has customs quite as 
time-honored as the making of the daisy 
chains is at A'assar. This idea for lunch- 
eon is worked out in the pink and gray 
colors of Vassar, but may -be readily 
adapted to those of any other college and 
the result be quite as pretty. It is also 
a paper aflfair, quite .easy for the girls 
to get up and quite as easily disposed of, 
if the luncheon takes place in one of the 
sitting rooms or other restricted places. 
Spring flowers are always attractive for 
room decoration, but reserve roses for 
the table. 

Proceed in the following manner with 
the decorations for the table. Cover the 
top with pale pink paper, and allow an 
eighteen-inch fall ruffle of pink, covered 
with thin white, then lay on white paper 
cloth. Around ^he edge of the table 
twine a smilax and pink rose cord or 



57 



58 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



wreath, and where the lour corners of 
the cloth fall on the flounce let the smilax 
hang down with a bunch of roses on the 
end. Use white serviettes. The place 
cards are dainty butterflies perched on 
the rim of the water glasses. The center- 
piece may be a pink rose Jack Horner 
pie, the favors within it to be tied with 
gray ribbon. The service plates may be 
of papier-mache, painted a delicate pink, 
with a wise gray owl in the center, the 
handiwork, perhaps, of one of the clever 
girl guests. The souvenirs are the diplo- 
mas concealing a fan in the roll, and are 
to be autographed by each guest present. 
A green pepper, at each plate, holds the 
salted nuts, and a cucumber holds the 
olives and radishes. If the hostess de- 
sires to carr>' out the paper idea entirely, 
she will find plates and little fancy cases 
in variety enough to do so, but if china 
is used, the gray Japanese carries out 
the color-scheme perfectly. Pink and 
white bonbons may be served in dainty 
rose boxes, but the selection of the menu 
must, to a certain extent, be governed by 
the "time, the place and the girl". But 
with a small amount of gray matter de- 
voted to thinking it out, it can, also, be 
made to conform to the general color- 
scheme. Now if more decoration be con- 
sidered, nothing is prettier than rose 
screens ; four, for instance, quite change 
the shape and appearance of a room, and 
give it a look of festivity. On the back 
of each chair the college sash and hats 
may be hung, to be donned with appro- 
priate ceremony at the beginning of the 
luncheon. Above the table a parasol 
made of the College Pennants may be 
hung and makes a very attractive canopy. 
As little silver as possible should be in ev- 
idence at a paper luncheon ; in fact, many 
people choose the tiny wooden forks 
and spoons as more appropriate for the 
occasion. A strawberry cocktail is quite 
harmless and very decorative, to start ofif 
with, and a fruit salad made of all the 
fruits of the season; but, instead of the 
familiar boiled dressing, use that which 
is served for the various ''Newburghs", 



having a dash of Sherry as flavoring, to 
which add a dash of nutmeg; chill this 
before using it on the fruit. A good idea 
with a fruit salad is to prepare the fruit 
in a white strainer fitted over a bowl to 
catch the juice; this is bound to drain 
off a little, while the fruit is chilling, but 
is not good in the salad as it thins the 
dressing too much. The juice may af- 
terwards be used up wath a little sugar 
and a dash of Vichy, making a most ex- 
cellent soft drink. English Game pies 
are quite a luncheon fad just now, 
and are deservedly popular. The 
same luncheon plan will be effec- 
tive in any of the college colors, with 
flow^ers to correspond ; for instance none 
are prettier than the daisy table in white, 
or the yellow with the brown ^ centers. 
The white grape-and-banana salad for 
the white daisy luncheon, and the orange 
and the marrons for the yellow luncheon 
salad. Here, also, is a very new temper- 
ance cocktail, which is made of white 
grapes and marrons with a dash of spiced 
Sherry, and capped with chilled whipped 



cream. 



J. Y. N. 



Cooking For Two 

HOWEVER strange it may seem to 
the woman who cooks for four, or 
six, or ten, there is a real problem for 
the woman who cooks for two. 

Most recipes are too large, and are 
difficult to divide, and, if one cooks 
enough to ''season the kettle", there is 
food to throw away, or it appears on the 
table until it is no longer relished. 

Experience and a real desire to solve 
the problem will bring to light many 
solutions. Here are some of mine — 

1. An equipment of small pans of 
white and earthenw^are, in which food 
may be prepared and served. 

2. A fireless cooker, in which to cook 
a small quantity of such food as dried 
beans, lentils, etc. If anything jars upon 
a thriftv w^oman's soul, it is a whole 
morning's consumption of fuel to cook 
half a cup of beans ! 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



59 



3. A small tin pan, made into a co- 
lander by driving it full -of holes with a 
small nail from the inside. This little 
pan will fit the top of the tea-kettle, is 
ideal for reheating a serving of brown 
bread or steamed pudding, and it is a 
grater, the handle of which can not break 
off. 

4. Such plans as reserving a portion 
of the creamed vegetable for the next 
day's luncheon salad; making a small 
pie of the one-crust variety, and baking 
the surplus filling in custard cups, to be 
eaten next day with wafers, which far 
surpasses left-over pie with a soggy 
crust ; cooking the usual one cup of rice, 
using it the first day as a border around 
creamed dried beef, the second day baked 
with a little white sauce, and a sprinkling 
of grated cheese, and then the third day 
a rice pudding is made with the spoonful 
held in reserve. 

5. Selecting such meats as may be 
cooked in small amounts and retain their 
juices. Pot roasts are most satisfactory. 
Sirloin and Porter-house are not extrav- 
agant for a small family. They require 
little fuel, and there is always a bone 
and a scrap to trim away, which may be 
put over the fire in cold water, brought 
to the boiling point and simmered with 
a seasoning of dried celery leaves, or a 
bit of tomato, onion or parsley, and used 
for the next day's bouillon. 

6. Using the oven to advantage by 
baking the potatoes in the pan with a 
small roast, and then filling every inch 
of space with such things as a pan of 
corn bread made with the yolk of one 
tgg, and a small cake with the white, two 
apples stuffed with raisins or prunes, and 
two cup custards. It can be done ! 

M. N. 

Some Dainty Southern Recipes 

THE southern man living in the 
north is always wondering at the 
amount of white beans eaten here, con- 
sidering that certain field peas grown 
extensively in the south are far better 



flavored and just as nutritious as white 
beans, besides cooking much quicker. 
Black-eyed peas are better flavored than 
beans, and cost about the same, yet gro- 
cers in the north say they sell but few 
black-eyed peas, in comparison with the 
amount of white beans sold, and that 
when sales are made of these peas they 
are generally to negroes. This is a queer 
state of things, and shows that the ap- 
pearance of food has much to do with 
the extent to which it is consumed. The 
black eyes of these peas give the whole 
pea a light yellowish or buff color when 
cooked, and, also, to whatever meat is 
cooked with them. 

But there is a field pea called the rice 
pea, grown extensively in southern 
states, which is white, eye and all, with 
a slightly creamy tint, and it is even 
more delicate of flavor than black-eyed 
peas ; these are as delicate as early June 
peas, and they retain their natural color 
when cooked, and do not change the 
color of meat cooked with them. Per- 
haps the reason rice peas are not grown 
more generally is that they are not as 
hardy as black-eyed peas and other field 
peas. 

These delicately flavored rice peas, 
cooked with tender young pork, are far 
and away more appetizing than pork and 
beans, and almost or quite as nutritious. 
They are good, either cooked after they 
have become dry in the autumn and win- 
ter, or when young and tender in the late 
spring and early summer. Southern 
ladies often cook the tender young peas, 
pods and all, as snap beans are cooked. 
They are also good, creamed, either fresh 
in spring and summer, or when dry. 

If drv' wash them thoroughly and let 
them soak an hour in just enough pure, 
fresh water barely to cover them. The 
soaking softens them, and they cook in 
half the time required if not soaked. 
This reduces the expense of cooking, if 
you cook with gas. Then simmer them 
slowly for an hour and a quarter in 
barely enough water (the same water in 
which they were soaked) to cover them, 



tiO 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



adding salt and butter after they have 
cooked an hour. Then, five minutes be- 
fore they are to be served, stir in some 
rich sweet milk, and cook long enough 
for the milk to scald thoroughly, but not 
curdle. The water should be cooked 
down so low that the milk added will 
not make the peas too soupy. The rice 
pea or black-eyed pea cooks in one-third 
the time required for white beans, which 
is quite an important consideration, 
where gas is used for cooking. 



The south is the natural habitat of the 
sweet potato, and it is second nature with 
southern housewives to make delicious, 
dainty dishes and entrees out of this 
toothsome edible. A popular dish in the 
south, one often found on the bills of 
fare of southern hotels and restaurants, 
is candied yams. Take plump, smooth 
sweet potatoes, not too large, and all as 
near the same size as possible, and wash 
them thoroughly. Have a large pot of 
boiling water, and put the potatoes into 
the water after it is boiling. Boil until 
the skins rub off easily, but not so much 
that the potatoes fall apart when han- 
dled. Then pour off the water and pour 
the potatoes out in a large bucket or 
deep pan of cold water and rub the skins 
off. Lay the potatoes thickly in a porce- 
lain-lined bake-pan, brush them over 
with melted butter, applied with a soft 
brush, sprinkle a teaspoonful of Y. C. 
sugar on top of each potato, shove" the 
pan into a moderately hot oven and 
brown the potatoes from eight to twelve 
minutes, when they are ready to serve. 



A delicious, grated, sweet potato pud- 
ding is made as follows: Take large, 
smooth, plump, raw potatoes, wash and 
peel and grate them on a large, coarse 
grater. Put the grated potato into a 
shallow porcelain-lined pudding pan ; add 
about four eggs, first beating the whites 
and yolks together thoroughly; to each 
quart of grated potato, add a very little 
salt and enough melted butter to make 
the pudding reasonably rich, then stir in 



enough good sweet milk to make the 
mass rather thin but not soupy, flavor 
with cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice or what- 
ever other flavor you fancy ; and stir all 
together thoroughly. The pudding should 
be about three inches thick. Sweeten it 
a little if desired. Bake in a moderate 
oven forty or fifty minutes. This makes 
a delicious entree, or you may add more 
sugar and serve as a dessert. 



If ambitious to make real pumpkin 
pies, never think of using canned pump- 
kin. Take pumpkins about the same size, 
so they will bake uniformly. Cut a 
square hole in each large enough to put 
your hand in and get out the seeds and 
other loose contents, then stop up the 
hole with the square section cut out; 
fasten it in so it will not be apt to be 
forced out by the steam generated inside 
the cooking pumpkins, and put the pump- 
kins in the oven of a large stove or range 
and cook slowly until you know they are 
done. Then take them out, cut them 
open and dip out the soft pulp or *'meat," 
put it through a colander or otherwise 
mash very thoroughly; -add eggs, milk, 
flavoring, etc., the same as if you had 
used canned pumpkin, and bake in the 
usual way. 

Or the pumpkin may be baked as a 
pudding, as the grated) sweet potato pud- 
ding is baked, except that the pulped 
pumpkin, being already cooked, will not 
need to remain in the oven as long as 
the grated raw potato. Ten or twelve 
minutes will do. Where the pumpkin is 
baked whole, so that the steam and flavor 
cannot escape, your pies or pudding will 
have the real pumpkin flavor, and will be 
much more delicious than if you used 

canned pumpkin. i. m. 

* * * 

Before the Spring Vegetables are 
Here 

AT this season when vegetables growii 
in hot-houses are disappointing in 
flavor and vei-y expensive, one is likely to 
find oneself living upon too restricted a 
diet. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



61 



It takes but a brief study of foods and 
their fate in the human body for us to 
realize that the diet plays a great part 
both in health and disease. 

Anaemia is more prevalent in Spring 
than in any other season of the year. 
The symptoms are a constant tired feel- 
ing, loss of appetite, pallor of the skin, 
and very often the patient suffers from 
neuralgia. An anaemic condition is dan- 
gerous not so much in itself, but because 
the body in this weakened state may be- 
come a prey to any contagious disease. 

Anaemia is a disease of the blood. The 
blood is in an impoverished condition, 
due to improper food, or to a failure to 
assimilate proper food. The element 
which the blood lacks is iron, a mineral 
salt found in lean beef, eggs, milk, cere- 
als, vegetables, and many fruits. 

During the months when many fresh 
vegetables and fruits are eaten, sufficient 
iron is usually furnished the blood. At 
this time of the year, however, a special 
selection of food is necessary. By care- 
ful planning and the exercise of a little 
ingenuity, one can include one or more 
of the iron-containing foods in each meal 
and at little cost. Chief among these are 
beans, peas, carrots, spinach, lettuce, 
whole-wheat flour, prunes, dates, grapes, 
raisins, apples oranges, beef, eggs, and 
milk. 

Too little thought is given to the selec- 
tion of the food we eat, due, partly, to 
the erroneous idea that healthful foods 
are distasteful and that all our favorite 
dishes are in danger of being banished 



from the table, if we select our food 
with a view to the needs of the body, as 
well as because of its palatability. 

Following are a few favorite recipes, 
each including one or more of the iron- 
containing food-stufifs mentioned. They 
are also made up of ingredients easily 
procured at this season. 

Cream of Spinach Soup 

Wash two quarts of spinach and place 
.in a sauce-pan over a moderate fire, with- 
out adding any water. Turn the leaves 
now and then with a fork. Spinach 
cooked in this manner is more attractive 
in appearance and retains the mineral 
salts, which would otherwise be poured 
off in the water. For soup, rub through 
a sieve and add to six cups of thin white 
sauce. 

White Sauce 



i cup butter 
h cup flour 
6 cups milk or 



4 cups chicken broth 

and 
2 cups milk 



Melt butter; add flour and sufficient 
liquid to blend. Cook ten minutes ; add 
remaining liquid and finish cooking in a 
double-boiler. 

Whole Wheat Muffins 

1 cup white flour 

1 cup entire-wheat 
flour 

2 tablespoonfuls sugar 
i teaspoonful salt 



bak- 



3i teaspoonfuls 

ing powder 
1 ^gg 

I4 cups milk 
3 tablespoonfuls 
melted butter 
Place all the dry ingredients in a bowl ; 
add the well-beaten egg, milk and melted 
butter. Beat thoroughly and bake about 
twenty-five minutes. j. m. h. 



A Homeward Thought 



When shadows, quiet weavers, 
For evening work prepare, 

And day goes on forever 
Down time's dim thoroughfare, 



My thought is not how fortune 
Has smiled on me this day, 

Or if the twilight closes 
A day's long, bitter fray, 



But rather comes a vision, 
That quickens heart and pace, 

Of homelights softly burning, 
And one sweet, smiling face! 

Arthur Wallace Peach. 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating 
to recipes, and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will 
be cheerfully answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the 
first of the moDth preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting 
answers by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit $1.00. Address 
queries to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 873 Boylston St., Boston, Mass. 



Query 2180. — "Can one who is forbidden to 
eat meat take soup made of meat?" 

Use of Soup Made of Meat 

One forbidden to eat meat should most 
certainly abstain from eating soup made 
from meat. The extractives withdrawn 
from the meat in cooking are the very 
part of the meat that is most harmful. 
Boiled fowl and fish, in which the tissues 
are more tender as a rule than beef, are 
sometimes allowed, because the extrac- 
tives have been withdrawn into the broth. 



Query 2181. — "We have failed with the re- 
cipe for the filling of the Chocolate Cream 
Roll, given in the Jan., 1913, number of the 
magazine ; the cake is good, but the filling 
runs out." 

Chocolate Cream Roll 



3 eg^ 

H cups sugar 

2 tablespoon fuls 
melted butter 

3 ounces melted 
chocolate 



i cup lukewarm 
water 

U cups pastry flour 
h teaspoonful soda 
1 teaspoonful cream 

of tartar, slightly 

rounding 



Beat the eggs without separating the 
whites and yolks ; add the other ingredi- 
ents in the order enumerated. Bake in 
a dripping pan. When baked the cake 
should be less than three- fourths an inch 
thick. Trim off the crisp edges, turn at 
once upside down on a cloth, spread with 
a Divinity frosting cooled nearly to the 
point of "crusting." At once roll and set 
aside. 



Divinity Frosting 



1 cup sugar 
i cup glucose or corn 
syrup 



i cup boiling water 

1 egg white 

i teaspoonful vanilla 



Melt the sugar in the glucose and wa- 
ter; wash down the sides of the pan to 
remove grains of sugar, cover and let 
boil two or three minutes ; uncover and 
let boil to the soft ball degree (238°F). 
Pour in a fine stream on the white of 
tgg, beaten very light, beating constantly 
meanwhile ; return the frosting to the 
saucepan; beat and cook over boiling 
water until the mixture thickens per- 
ceptably; beat while cooling; add the 
vanilla just before using. 



Query 2182. — "Recipe for White Layer 
Cake, made with cream-of-tartar and soda 
rather than baking powder." 

White Layer Cake 



J cup butter 

li cups sugar 

J cup milk 

2i cups flour 

i teaspoonful soda 



I teaspoonful cream- 
of-tartar (scant) 
Grating of lemon rind 
5 egg-whites 



Query 2183.— "Recipe for Raspberry Milk 
Ice made of fresh raspberries." 

Raspberry Milk Sherbet 

Pack the can of a freezer containing 
one quart of milk in salt and crushed ice. 
Use one measure of salt to three of ice. 
Crush and strain through a cheese cloth 
enough raspberries to make one pint of 
juice; mix this with one cup and a half 
of sugar and pour into the chilled mix- 
ture, then freeze as usual. 



62 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



63 



Query 2184.— "Recipe for 'Chicken Jelly 
Salad,' to be shaped in a mold." 

Chicken Jelly Salad 

1 cup consomme or 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls 
chicken broth cold water 

1 cup fine-chopped Salt and pepper 

cooked chicken Onion juice, celery 

I a teaspoonful gran- salt 
ulated gelatine 

Soften the gelatine in the cold water; 
add the broth, boiHng, and stir until the 
gelatine is dissolved; add the seasonings 
and let chill a little. Add part of the 
gelatine mixture to the chicken. Set a 
mold in ice and water; put in two or 
three teaspoonfuls of the gelatine mix- 
ture, then decorate the mold with capers, 
slices of olives or figures cut from truf- 
fles, cooked egg or carrots; add a few 
drops of gelatine to hold the decorations 
in place, then put in more broth; when 
nearly ''set" add a little of the chicken 
mixture, then add alternate layers of 
broth and chicken. Let each layer become 
somewhat firm before another is added. 
Serve turned from the molds with let- 
tuce and French or mayonnaise dressing. 
See also Chicken Mousse used as a salad. 



Query 2185.— "List of Salads, Sandwiches 
and other dishes that could be quickly pre- 
pared for service in a small tea-room run 
in connection with a hotel. The tea-room 
is to be open from 2 P. M. until midnight." 

Sandwiches and Salads, 
Quickly Prepared 

A limited quantity of lettuce, cress, 
endive, and romaine, two or more varie- 
ties, might be carefully washed and set 
aside in closed receptacles in a nearby 
refrigerator or cold storage apartment. 
Cooked asparagus, carefully covered, 
could be in readiness. If a meat or fish 
salad was desired, chicken or fish might 
be in readiness for mixing. Then with 
French and mayonnaise dressing, care- 
fully covered in fruit jars, the final as- 
sembling of a salad would be the work 
of but a few minutes. But a limited 
number of sandwiches should be made 
ready in advance ; bread may l^e pre- 
pared and, if put into triangular shape, 
that which is left over will be just right 



for use next day in the hotel as toast 
points for a large variety of entrees. 
Chicken or ham sandwiches are good 
with any green salad. So also are egg 
sandwiches. 

List of Sandwiches 

Mayonnaise of hard-cooked eggs, 
cream cheese-and-pimento, club, bacon, 
sardine, anchovy, cheese and nuts, cream 
cheese and chopped olives, peanut butter, 
cold "rabbit", mayonnaise of chicken, 
olives and pimentos (all chopped) nut 
bread and orange or grapefruit marma- 
lade, chopped dates and cream cheese. 

List of Salads 

Hard-cooked eggs, with lettuce and 
mayonnaise ; lettuce and asparagus ; to- 
mato stuffed with cucumbers or aspara- 
gus; lettuce hearts, Roquefort dressing; 
green pepper (shredded) lettuce; cress- 
and-egg; grapefruit, orange, pineapple, 
French dressing with grenadine ; choice 
prunes, grapefruit, French dressing with 
grenadine ; spinach ; green peppers, 
pimento, tomatoes, hard-cooked eggs, en- 
dive or romaine, French dressing, with 
chili sauce. 



Query 2186. — "Give general menu for use 
each day in small tea-room, to which special 
dishes may be added daily." 

I 
Toasted Bread 
Toasted Scones 
» English Muffins, toasted 

Lettuce Hearts, French dressing 

Orange Marmalade 

Rhubarb Marmalade 

Tea 



Query 2187.— "Recipe for Bran Bread." 
For Recipe see page 789, May, 1914. 

Query 2188. — "How fry onions brown and 
crisp and leave the rings in almost the orig- 
inal shape?" 

Fried Onions 

Cut mild, peeled onions in thin slices 
and separate the slices into rings. Let 
stand in milk for an hour or longer, then 
drain and toss them in a plate of flour. 
Shake ofif superfluous flour and let fry 
in deep fat until tender, crisp and well 



64 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



colored. Drain on soft paper. The fat 
should not be too hot; the rings should 
he cooked tender before taking on color. 
Well-colored means a fine amber shade. 



(2) Soup: 



Consomme a la Royal 
(pages 179 & 194) 



i cup melted butter 
2 egg-yolks 
•i teaspoonful salt 
Grated rind 1 lemon 
Flour for dough 



Query 2189.— "Recipe for Philadelphia But- 
ter Buns." 

Philadelphia Butter Buns 

1 cake compressed 

yeast 
^ cup water 
1 cup scalded milk 
U cups bread flour 
i cup sugar I 

Make a sponge of the first four ingre- 
dients ; when light add the others ; about 
two cups of flour will be required. 
Knead until smooth and elastic, cover and 
set aside to become doubled in bulk. 
Turn upside dow^n on a board (without 
cutting down), roll into a rectangular 
sheet, spread with softened butter, 
dredge with sugar and cinnamon, 
sprinkle with currants, and roll as a jelly 
roll. Cut into pieces about an inch and a 
quarter long. The dough will make six- 
teen buns. Melt one-fourth a cup of 
butter in a baking pan, and sprinkle on 
half to a full cup of brown sugar; on 
this set the buns. When light bake in 
a moderate oven. Do not let the buns 
burn on the bottom. As soon as baked 
turn upside down. These are good re- 
heated. When using dry yeast, about 
four o'clock p. m., make a sponge w^ith 
the yeast softened in the water and half* 
of the milk. Beat down when light. 
Use with the rest of the ingredients in 
making the dough at about nine o'clock 
p. m. Shape the first thing in the 
morning. 

Query 2190. — "Menu and floral decorations 
for a dinner to be given to a society, num- 
bering 100 men. The colors are to be gold 
and white. Choice but plain dishes are pre- 
ferred, the recipes to be found, for the most 
part, in Practical Cooking and Serving. The 
dinner will be prepared by pupils in domestic 
science." 

Choice 3Ienu for 100 Men 

(1) Appetizer: 

Strawberries, French Fashion, or 

Strawberry-and-Orange Cocktail 

(in orange skins) 



(3) Fish: 

Baked Halibut Steaks (page 83) 

or 

Turbans of Halibut (page 85) 

Hollandaise or Fish Bechamel Sauce 

French Potato Balls Maitre d'Hotel 

(page 266) 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

(See illustration facing page 337) 

sprinkled with chopped olives, chopped 

parsley, sifted yolk of egg and minute 

pearl onions 

Parker House Rolls 
(throughout the meal) 

(4) Roast: 

Loin of Lamb, Roasted 

Mint Jelly or Mint Sauce (page 218) 

Green Peas and slices or shreds of carrot 

in Potato Patties (late magazine) 

Spinach, Italian Style (late magazine) 

Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce 

(made yellow with egg-yolks) 

or Banana Croquettes, Golden Sauce 

Dessert : 

Orange Sherbet and Vanilla Ice Cream 
in molds to cut in slices, half yellow and 
half white or 

Golden Parfait with French Fruit 

or 

Ginger Ice Cream 

Sponge Cake (made with potato flous) 

Roquefort Cheese 

Toasted Crackers 

Coffee 

For Orange Sherbet, see page 568; omit 

the meringue. 

For Vanilla Ice Cream, see page 558, 
"Cream Ice with Junket." 
Alternates : 

Instead of the Loin of Lamb, serve 

Lamb Chops, Breaded and Baked 

or Lamb Chops, Maintenon 

or Roast Fillets of Beef, 

Mushroom Sauce 

For the cocktail, divide the oranges in 
halves and remove the pulp in as whole 
pieces as possible; cut the strawberries 
in halves ; add sugar as needed — not too 
much — and put the fruit into the half- 
skins with juice; set on small plates, 
covered with small paper doilies. The 
half-skins must be cleared out per- 
fectly, washed and wiped dry before 
use. 

In making the Parker House Rolls, be 
sure and turn on to the board when 
light, without cutting down, then with a 
few strokes of the pin, the dough will 
l3e rolled into a sheet. 



Suggestions for Food for Camp of Adults 

Chickens, Fresh Fish (Lake or Pond) Bacon, Eggs, Condensed Milk 
and Canned Goods are available 

Fowl, steamed and roasted ; chickens, fried ; chicken pie ; chickens 
fricassee, chicken roasted, chicken croquettes, souffle, timbales, salad. 

Fresh fish broiled, sauted, fried in deep fat, baked with mashed 
potato dressing, or bread dressing, or tomato sauce, or milk, or salt pork ; 
boiled with egg sauce, caper sauce and pickle sauce. Creamed, curried, 
and scalloped fish, fish cakes, sauted in salt pork fat, fish croquettes, 
souffle, salad. 

Bacon broiled, rolled, fastened with wooden skewers (toothpicks) 
and fried in deep fat, boiled with string-beans or cabbage, or boiled alone 
and served with canned string beans or spinach. 

Eggs plain boiled, or fried, poached, scrambled ; in omelets and tim- 
bales and with mayonnaise. 

Eggs sliced with sliced potatoes (cooked) or onions (cooked) baked 
in cream sauce and buttered crumbs. 

Omelets, French or puffy, with chicken, ham, canned peas, tomato 
sauce, dried mushrooms, also Spanish omelet. Egg timbales with tomato 
sauce or canned peas in cream sauce, 

Okra soup with rice, canned okra and remnants of roasted chicken. 

Canned Tomato Jelly with sliced eggs and mayonnaise (soften gela- 
tine in cold tomato juice and dissolve in hot juice; add the rest of juice 
and tomato cut in pieces with fine-chopped chili pepper.) 

Macaroni cooked with canned tomatoes, bits of canned ham, grated 
cheese, etc. 

Rice Croquettes, Cheese Sauce, Creamed Macaroni au Gratin. 

Cheese Custard, Cheese Croquettes, Gnocchi, Mexican Rabbit, Welsh 
Rabbit, Golden Buck. 

Canned Asparagus Salad, Canned Asparagus on Toast, Bernaise or 
Drawn Butter Sauce, Canned Corned Beef, Creamed, au Gratin, Canned 
Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash, Salmon Boiled in Can, Boiled Potatoes, 
Egg or Caper Sauce, Potato Salad with Sardines, Sardines in Brown 
Sauce on Toast. 







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American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1914 



No. 2 



Bennett Hall 

Colonial Mansion — Automobile Inn 
By Adele Farmer 



FACING the elm-shaded main 
street of Billerica, Massachusetts, 
stands the century-old Joshua 
Bennett Holden Estate, Bennett Hall, a 
sturdy mansion, surrounded by its ances- 
tral acres. Two years ago, Mrs. M. H. 
Hubbard of Boston leased it for an auto- 
mobile inn, a purpose for which it is ad- 
mirably suited. Wide piazzas extending 
around three sides, generously supplied 
with hammocks and wicker chairs, broad 
chimneys, that proclaim numerous fire- 
places, many window\s, with their small 
square panes in the upper sash, even 
more than the swinging sign, "Bennett 
Hall, Entertainment," invites the passer- 
by to enter. The long porte-cochere 
forms a connecting link between the 
main house and a one-story- structure, 
completely surrounded by piazzas, that is 
an ideal billiard and pool room. 

The lover of things Colonial now finds 
himself on the threshold of a treasure- 
house, indeed. Massive white Dutch 
doors, swinging in two sections, adorned 
with brass knockers, open on to the 
piazza from each end of the hall. The 
white door casings, and set of drawers 
under the stairs, beautifully carved, at- 
tract the attention at once. Portraits of 
Joshua Bennett and his wife still hang 
over their old-fashioned sofa, and a very 
old clock ticks off the time from its place 
over a cozy built-in seat. A leather fire 
bucket, with the inscription, ''Bennett 
Hall, 1822." stands ready for use on the 
bottom stair. 



Two broad doorways lead into the im- 
mense living room, rich in mahogany 
pier tables, sewing tables. Colonial mir- 
rors, a Martha Washington chair and 
footstool, besides many Sadler prints and 
quaint paintings. At each end of the 
long room, twin fireplaces of blue and 
white tiles, fitted with black andirons 
ornamented by brass sunflower tops, 
throw a cheerry glow along the polished 
floor. Each carved white mantle boasts 
a pair of very tall glass candle-sticks, 
w^th vase-like glass shades and jingling 
prisms. Each side of both fireplaces, and 
each side wall, proudly displays, for well- 
merited admiration, sconces hung with 
prisms, now holding an electric light in 
place of the candle. Cozy wicker and 
mission chairs harmoniously blend with 
the stately Martha Washingtons around 
the blazing logs. 

To the left of the hall, a wide 
doorway hospitably invites the guest 
into the spacious, old Colonial din- 
ing hall. Five windows, with broad sills 
and snowy, dotted muslin Dutch curtains, 
let in a flood of sunshine. In the center 
of one long wall, a red brick chimney of 
mammoth dimensions extends from floor 
to ceiling and out into the room, with a 
shallow red tile mantle set in the brick, 
above which looks down a fine portrait 
of Joshua Bennett, imbedded in the chim- 
ney by an iron frame. The huge fire- 
place, fat bellows and heavy, ornate, 
black andirons have, no doubt been on- 
lookers at many a merry party around 



99 



100 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the festive board. Along the walls live 
elaborately carved, mahogany cabinets of 
different kinds are making themselves 
useful in these modern times. At the 
far end of the apartment a beautiful, in- 
laid mahogany Sheraton sideboard, with 
six slim fluted legs, fills one's heart with 
envy. A large plain mirror hanging 
above it enhances the beauty of the piece, 
and reflects the cut glass punch bowl and 
copper coft'ee percolator proudly stand- 
ing on its polished surface. This room 
also boasts fifteen mahogany Chippen- 
dale chairs, with seats upholstered in dif- 
ferent quaint patterns ; a highly polished 
mahogany banquet table, which can be 
extended to seat twenty-eight people; 
and a tall carved, china cabinet, filled 
with rare old china and embossed brass. 
The upper hall and chambers each 
holds its share of valuable family pos- 
sessions. Two large front bedrooms, 
connected by a bath, are now occupied 
en suite. Each has a red brick fireplace, 
fully equipped for winter weather, mod- 
ern single white beds daintily covered 
with white . spreads and folded white 
pufifs, tufted with blue. Empire bureaus, 



chintz ruffled sofas, and Martha Wash- 
ington sewing tables. Each door is se- 
cured by an enormous brass lock and 
key. One room has a beautiful three- 
section, mahogany and gilt Colonial mir- 
ror, surmounted by an eagle, over the 
white mantle. Another room, among 
other old prints, contains an autographed 
painting of Jenny Lind. 

In the sunny upper hall one comes 
upon a rare old piano, one of the 
first manufactured by Chickering, and 
a much-carved, straight-backed chair, 
richly upholstered. 

All this wealth of long ago is the 
guest's, to use and enjoy, as well as a 
multitude of other pleasures, indoors 
and out. Whoever enters the massive 
Dutch doors, at once, falls under the 
spell of the hostess' charming person- 
ality. You are welcomed into the 
"homey'' atmosphere of the place with 
true Southern hospitality, then turned 
loose to have a good time, as the season 
permits, until the dinner gong gathers in 
all the guests around the time-honored 
board, once presided over by a stately 
Colonial dame. 




QNE CORNER OF Tr:E LONG HALL 



i 



Camp Cooking 

By A. E. S. 



To the camper who experiences the 
joys of woodland life for the 
first time, there is a most delight- 
ful surprise in store. The long tramp 
through forest and meadow, the paddle 
by canoe through small and picturesque 
streams — each holds its individual charm 
— a charm which few can resist. Then, 
at the close of the day's tramp, there is 
the pleasure of gathering around the 
open camp fire and, while cooking the 
evening meal, swapping yarns and talk- 
ing over the incidents of the day. 

Camp cooking is an art, and to perfect 
it, a thoughtful investigation of ways 
and means should be made. There are 
so many things to be considered on a 
camping trip that it is well to study 
camping outfits carefully so as to elimi- 
nate unnecessary things and yet include 
everything absolutely essential, and to 
find out how the necessary articles can 
be carried without too much trouble. 

A camping outfit should be light and 
compact, the amount to be carried de- 
pending upon whether it is a walking 
trip, a canoe trip, or a permanent camp 
that can be reached by team ; for the 
two former kinds of camping less can be 
taken than for the latter. For either a 
walking or a canoe trip, a light ax that 
can be carried in the belt or in a small 
canvas bag is an absolute necessity, as 
for the campfire dead wood must be 
chopped up, small trees or saplings cut 
down and kindlings prepared. A camp 
kettle, which can be as expensive or in- 
expensive as desired and w^hich can 
range from a tin pail with riveted ears 
to an aluminum kettle with a detachable 
handle, is another requisite. A frying 
pan is also necessary, as it is useful for 
so many things. The best kind to get 
for this purpose is a ten-inch, thin iron 
pan with a socket at one side for a tem- 
porary handle. The cofifee pot must not 



A 




THE SLEEPING TEXT 

be forgotten, and can be made to do 
service for tea, cofifee, or chocolate. 

In addition to the cofifee pot a small 
canteen, which is light and takes up little 
room, is always a practical adjunct for 
carrying water. Small cups that can be 
packed, one inside the other, knives and 
forks and spoons and a tin plate are in- 
dispensable. All these can be packed in 
a cloth or canvas bag that can be easily 
carried. 

The quantity of food to be taken de- 
pends upon the length of the trip and the 
location of the camp. Pork, ham, bacon 
and, possibly, corn beef are necessary. 
Sometimes campers are near enough to a 
neighboring farmhouse to get vegetables 
and milk, but a can of condensed milk 
comes in handy and with it an opener. 

The genuine camper takes very little 
with him, preferring to live on the spoils 
of his gun and rod. Many who care 
little for sport, and more for the out- 
door life, take a great deal more, to do 
away with the work of fishing and shoot- 
ing. It has been carefully computed and 
found that any person, who wishes to 
make a trip of this kind economical, can 
live on a dollar a week. 

One of the most important things to 
insure good food is the camp fire. This 
mav be made in several wavs, each of 



101 



102 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



which is suitable for the purpose desired. 
A crane is easily made by driving a 
crotched stick into the ground and rest- 
ing a long, green pole in the crotch, with 
one end swung over the fire and the 
other fastened down by stones or logs. 
The most common way is to drive two 
crotched sticks into the ground. They 
must be of green wood, otherwise they 
are easily burned. Small forked sticks 
are hung on the long horizontal pole, and 
to these the pots and kettles are hung. 
For frying, this kind of a fire can be 
used, but it is well to roll green logs in 
front of it on which to rest the frying 
pan, to keep it from burning. 

Many people prefer a fireplace. This 
can be made of stone, flat rocks being 
laid at the bottom, and around them a 
semicircle of field stones. These should 
be placed close enough together so that 
the fire will reach all around the kettles, 
and a flat stone at the front is always a 
convenient accessory. 

Make the space of the fireplace large 



enough for two or more pots, and be 
sure to have it low at the front, for fry- 
ing purposes. In making the fireplace, 
see that the back is a little narrower than 
the frying pan, and a little wider at the 
front. 

It must be remembered that a small 
fire is better than a large one, for the 
latter burns the face and is more liable 
to spoil the cooking. Hardwood is bet- 
ter than pine, for it is coals that are 
needed, and the longer they remain hot, 
the better the cooking. Hemlock and 
cedar are not advisable because the 
sparks fly upward, soiling the food, and 
are apt to set fires outside. 

A bake-hole is always useful, even in 
a temporary camp. It can be dug any- 
where, where the ground is soft enough. 
The side of a bank, however, or pos- 
sibly a knoll, is better, for the reason 
that an opening can be left at the front, 
and that water will drain ofif in rainy 
weather. If there are any stones in the 
vicinity, it is well to line the hole with 




OUTDOOR MEAL IN CAMP 



CAMP COOKING 



103 




PICNIC LUNCH ON THE BEACH 



them, making it a little larger than the 
size of the kettle. 

The first thing to be done before bak- 
ing is to build a hardwood fire, not only 
in the hole, but above it as well. Keep 
this burning briskly until the stones and 
the earth around are piping hot. After 
this it is well to take out a great deal 
of the coals and ashes from the hole, 
and put in the baking pot filled with 
whatever is to be cooked. This should 
have on it a tight-fitting cover. For best 
results, a large flat stone should be placed 
over the entrance to the hole, and if the 
food requires long heating, a small fire 
may be kept going above. Food cooked 
in this manner has the most delicious 
flavor, not to be equalled by that cooked 
in any oven made. 

All these suggestions can be put into 
practice, no matter what kind of camp- 
ing trip is contemplated. 

Should the trip be for a day only, 
fresh meat and a few vegetables may be 
carried along. Mutton chops are never 
so juicy and delicious as when broiled on 
forked sticks in front of a low camp fire. 
The stick should be long so that the cook 
need not stand too near the fire. 

There are many ways of cooking pota- 
toes, all of which bring good results. One 
of these is in an oval hole scooped out 
under the forestick, from three to four 
inches deep. Into this lay the potatoes. 



which are of even size, and cover them 
over either with heated sand or ashes. 
If more heat is desired, glowing coals 
may be put on top. To test the potatoes, 
run a small pointed stick into them. This 
is for two reasons — first, to see if the 
potato is done, and second, to let the 
steam escape. Another way to cook po- 
tatoes is to roll them in large leaves, 
holding them in place with small twigs, 
and placing them under the ashes. 

If they are to be boiled, remember the 
best of the potato lies just under the 
skin. Wash thoroughly, cut out the eye, 
and if a bit is cut off the end, it keeps 
them from bursting open. It is better to 
put into cold water and let them come to 
a boil, for the reason that the skin of 
a potato contains an acid poison which 
this method extracts. Boil gently, but 
continuously, and throw a little salt in 
the water. 

If the camping trip is made near the 
salt water, where fish may be procured, 
nothing tastes so good as a fish chowder, 
a very famous recipe for which was 
given by Daniel Webster: ''Cod of ten 
or twelve pounds, well cleaned, leaving 
on the skin, cut into slices of one and 
one-lialf pounds, each, preserving the 
head whole. One and a half pounds 
clear, fat salt pork, cut into thin slices. 
Slice twelve potatoes, take the largest 
pot you have, try out the pork first, then 



104 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



take out the pieces of pork, leaving in the 
drippings. Add to that three pints of 
water, a layer of hsh, so as to cover the 
bottom of the pot, next a layer of pota- 
toes, and then two tablespoonfuls of 
salt, one leaspoonful of pepper, then the 
pork, another layer of tish, and the re- 
mainder of the potatoes. Fill the pot 
with water enough to cover the ingre- 
dients, put it over a good fire, and let the 
chowder boil twenty-five minutes. When 
this is done, have a quart of boiling milk 
ready and ten hard crackers split and 
dipped in cold water. Add milk and 
crackers ; let the whole boil five minutes. 
The chowder is then ready, and will be 
first rate if you will follow these sugges- 
tions. An onion is added if you like 
that flavor." 

Possibly the fish will be baked. This 
can be done in your "hole-in-the-ground" 
oven. Take the fish, which should be 
fresh, to the side of the water where 
there is plenty of mud. Rub it over with 
the soft clay, particularly against the 
scales and gills, and let it set for a while. 
Then roll out a flat surface of clay, put- 
ting the fish into the center of it and roll- 
ing it over. If there is any trouble in 
its staying, it can be fastened with fine 
wire or cord. Dry this before the fire 
for a few minutes, then bury it in the 
oven, with plenty of hot coals and ashes, 
until the clay is very hard. Take this out 
and crack it open with the hatchet. You 
will find that the scales and skin of the 



fish will come oft", and that it will split 
in two pieces, so the spine may be easily 
taken out. The inside waste material 
will have shrunk to a small ball which 
can be removed easily. The flesh of the 
fish is then ready for serving, and when 
eaten oft* a board or plate with a little 
salt sifted over it, it is a joy which will 
never be forgotten. 

Planking fish is another method often 
used. When this is done, hunt up a good- 
sized piece of wood that is smooth on 
the inside and wide enough to hold the 
fish laid out flat. Split the fish as you 
would for broiling, tack it to the plank, 
the skin side down, and on top skewer 
with small twigs and strips of bacon, and 
stand before the hot fire. Don't forget 
to put a large piece of bacon on the head 
of the fish, so that when cooking the 
drippings will baste the fish. When done, 
the thickest pan of the flesh will be soft, 
and it can be tested by thrusting a sliver 
into it. Put salt, pepper, and butter, if 
you have the latter ingredient, on the 
fish before eating. 

Fish is also very palatable, and is 
easily cooked by sharpening a small 
straight stick, stripping it of bark and 
thrusting it through the fish and bacon, 
alternately. The stick is then held over 
the hot coals and care must be taken not 
to drop it into the fire. This method is 
often used when there is no frying pan 
in the camp. 

There are so manv varieties of wavs 




S' CAM? 



THE HOME PORT 



105 



for cooking fish tliat there seems no ex- 
cuse for not doing so. It can be baked, 
broiled and roasted, in ahnost every 
thinkable way. With some campers a 
common way for its cooking is to bake 
it between layers of grass. 

A leg of lamb, if it can be carried, has 
a particularly delicious flavor, if it can 
be hung to a pole by a long wire and 
turned constantly, a tiny pan being placed 
underneath for the drippings. It has to 
be turned constantly, however, otherwise 
the outside will be burned and the inside 
raw. The drippings can be utilized aft- 
erwards to pour over the meat when 
serving. 

If bread is desired, a small box of 
baking powder may be carried and a lit- 
tle flour in a salt bag that can be sewed 
up or tied securely. W'ith these biscuits 
can be made of a quart of flour, four 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder and a 
teaspoonful of salt ; work in a little but- 
ter with the hands or mixing spoon ana 
make it the right consistency with water. 
Mold with the hands into small round 
biscuits and bake on the hot stones in 
front of the fire. Bread can also be 
cooked in a frying pan by mixing a pint 
of wheat flour, one teaspoonful of salt 



and two of baking powder. Grease the 
frying pan and turn in the batter, baking 
very slowly over the fire. 15e sure to 
loosen from the pan with a thin knife as 
soon as a crust forms, so that it can be 
turned over and baked on the opposite 
side. 

Tea and cofifee may be made in the 
usual way, for the best drink for the 
camper is a good cup of coffee. 

The person who wishes to make his 
vacation a camping trip need not go 
hungry, for in these enlightened days 
there are plenty of things that may be 
taken along, which occupy small space 
and are of little weight. And there is no 
more enjoyable vacation in the world 
than a tramping trip taken through the 
woods or mountains, or a fishing trip 
made by canoe, spending the days in the 
open air, and sleeping either under a tent 
cover, or under the stars, covered only 
with a blanket. It gives one fresh nerve 
and fresh courage for return to work — 
therefore it is a vacation that more peo- 
ple should try to take. In addition to 
health and rest from "brain fag," it 
offers an opportunity for a very careful 
study of Nature and its belongings, 
which is invaluable. 



The Home Port 



There may be joy in leaving 
Some gray old Port of Home, 

With hope of high achieving 

On seas where brave hearts roam 



But he who seeks the Islands 
That He on chartless seas — 

The Isles with sunny highlands, 
Fair meadows, singing trees, 



To seek, with eager questing. 
The happy Isles of Dreams 

Where life knows no unresting, 
But with peace perfect teems. 



Finds years go swift and never 
The shining hills appear, 

Nor harbor he can enter 
O'er sands of silver clear. 



So joy is his far sweeter, 

Who vows no more to roam ; 

And bids the winds be fleeter 
To waft his worn bark home ! 

Arthur Wallace Peach. 



The Capitulation of Aunt Caroline 



By w. N. K. 



I HAVE never regretted it — not for an 
instant ! Aunt Caroline Said I would 
**rue the day," and refused to come 
to the wedding. You see, Philip had 
nothing except his genius, for he is an 
artist. For me to marry, and to wed 
neither money nor family seemed to 
Aunt Caroline actually wicked. She had 
brought me up to fill a position in the 
world. It made me feel very sorry, be- 
cause she was all the family I had. But 
I married Philip just the same. After- 
wards we moved to Chicago, where we 
knew absolutely no one. Philip thought 
there would be a great many artistic 
openings in this smoky, scrawly city, 
which was developing so rapidly the 
aesthetic side of its life. 

We lived in a tiny flat, and were ab- 
surdly happy for five months. Then 
funds began to get low. Work did not 
come in as fast as Philip had expected. 
He was given one or two magazine 
stories to illustrate and nothing more, 
for months and months. He grew so 
discouraged ; he would look at me some- 
times as though he begged my pardon 
for ever having made my acquaintance. 
It almost broke my heart to see him, but 
I pretended I was happy as the day is 
long, and invented a hundred new dishes, 
all made out of potatoes. One of Phil's 
cousins, who is an agricultural faddist, 
sent us four sacks of choice potatoes for 
a wedding present. 

The awful day came when I took out 
the last potatoes from the bottom of the 
last sack. Things were looking pretty 
black to us that day. We knew no one 
in the city. Philip had no family to call 
upon, and I wouldn't ask Aunt Caroline 
for help; I had rather starve first. But 
though I could stand being hungry my- 
self, I thought I couldn't bear it to see 
Philip starve. 

One thing only consoled us, we had 



no rent to pay; for the flat belonged to 
two friends of Phil's who had gone to 
California for the winter, and had asked 
us to live in it while they were away. So 
we had shelter and plenty of clothing; 
our wedding outfits were growing rather 
rusty, but there are times when a frayed 
collar or a shiny coat does not seem to 
matter very much. 

I cooked those last potatoes *'au Gra- 
tin", because cheese is cheap and nourish- 
ing; and we sat down to the table each 
smiling cheerfully at the other. I couldn't 
eat ; I simply could not force any of those 
potatoes down my throat, although I 
tried. They are a worthy vegetable, but 
never again shall I be able to look a po- 
tato in the eye with any sort of comfort. 
Philip watched me for a minute, then 
threw dow^n his fork. 

"Oh, damn it all, anyway," he burst 
forth. 

'Thilip!" but I really didn't mind; 
though I had never heard him swear be- 
fore. In fact, that ''damn" rather re- 
lieved my mind. 

''Look here, [anette, your Aunt Caro- 
line " 

"Philip, I shall not ask her for any- 
thing," I said firmly. 

"No, of course not, dear, I didn't mean 
that. But you might make her a little 
visit, while I look around for jobs," he 
answered." 

"And leave you here alone ! How can 
you suggest such a thing." I tried to 
keep my voice steady, but the tears were 
near the surface. 

He came around the table to comfort 
me. "I feel absolutely criminal when 1 
look at you and see how thin you're get- 
ting," he explained, kissing me. 

After that, I felt much better, almost 
as though I had eaten a steak and a nice 
lettuce salad, but not quite. Presently 
he looked up from the "want ads" in the 



106 



THE CAPITULATION OF AUNT CAROLINE 



107 



evening paper : 

*'Did you notice the sign in the cater- 
er's window near Forty-seventh Street?" 
he asked. 

I gave a guilty start ; for I had noticed 
that sign. It said, "Wanted Competent 
Waitresses and Footmen for temporary 
employment." In the back of my mind 
a hazy notion was assuming definite 
shape, that sign marked a turning point 
in my life. I had already planned to 
visit the shop on the morrow and to see 
if I could not get something to do which 
would bring me in a few dollars. So I 
just nodded ''yes" and began to talk 
about something else. 

The caterer's place was very nice with 
a large plate-glass window, where the 
most delicate confections were displayed. 
I had never been in there, because the 
things looked so dreadfully expensive. 
But, next morning, after Philip had gone 
downtown, I put on an old black cloth 
suit (just the way the heroine always 
does in novels, when she wants to dis- 
guise herself; only I omitted the heavy 
veil) 'and, locking the door of my little 
domain behind me, went out — not to visit 
my wounded lover, as the lady in the 
story would have done — but to interview 
the caterer. By the time I had reached 
the shop I was quite filled with a sense of 
adventure. A stout, grey-haired woman 
stood behind the counter. 

"Can I do something for you, 
madam?" she asked, as I stood hesitat- 
ing in the doorway. 

*T saw your sign — you want wait- 
resses?" I asked, trying to put an Irish 
burr in my speech. 

She looked somewhat surprised, but 
went at once to call her husband, the 
owner of the store. He was a business- 
like person ; with one glance of his sharp 
little eyes he reviewed me from top to 
toe. I felt he must have discovered the 
wedding ring and solitaire under my 
shabby glove. 

"Have you had experience?" he asked 
abruptly. 

I answered "yes," and knew it for the 



truth when I remembered the days I had 
spent planning and serving some lunch- 
eon or dinner for Philip, trying to make 
a little go a long way and sparse fare as 
attractive as possible. 

I was afraid he was going to ask me 
for references, but he seemed satisfied 
with my appearance and manner, and 
turned at once to business. 

"We have a big reception over on the 
Lake Shore this afternoon, and we need 
helpers. If you will come at two o'clock, 
I will give you some instructions before- 
hand. You will have to wear a black 
dress, white apron and cap. \\q furnish 
the caps, so they will be all alike. We 
pay three dollars for a big affair like this. 
If you can be there, I will give you the 
number." 

It was rather sudden. I had not 
thought I would be snapped up so 
quickly, but I said I would be there at 
two, and he gave me a well-known name 
and a number on Lake Shore Drive. 1 
hurried home to concoct some sort of 
black waitressy looking dress. Three 
dollars ! It was an amount not to be des- 
pised, and already I was excitedly plan- 
ning its expenditure. I drank a glass of 
milk, and ate a cracker for luncheon, be- 
cause it was past noon, and I should have 
a long ride on the elevated before I 
reached the north shore. 

The house, when I found it, was so 
big and pretentious, it rather took my 
breath away. Built of gray stone, it was 
surrounded by lawns and shrubberies 
further back I caught a glimpse of 
stables and garage. But I squared my 
shoulders, undaunted by any awe-inspir- 
ing signs of affluence, and made my way 
around to the side door where I rang the 
bell. A neat, pink-cheeked maid came to 
the door, her cap already perched upon 
her hair. 

"Are you one of Mr. \\^intergart's 
girls?" she asked. "Come this way; he 
is in here.'' We went down a passage to 
the back of the house, but I saw, through 
an opening, a great hall, lighted and dec- 
orated with flowers and palms. I felt so 



108 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



lost and tjueer that I almost said aloud, 
"Janettc l*attin. you goose! What in 
the world are you doing here?" You see, 
never before in my life had 1 arrived at 
a reception by the back door. 

We found Mr. W'intergart in a room 
which 1 afterwards learned was the but- 
ler's pantry. I think I could have set my 
whole flat down inside of it. There were 
about ten more girls in the room, all tak- 
ing caps from Mrs. W. and directions 
from her husband, who was very cool 
and quick, issuing orders like some fam- 
ous general before a battle. They were 
a nice-looking set of girls; some German, 
some Scandinavian, and some, just like 
me, plain American. The girl who 
brought me in showed me where to hang 
my coat and hat, then I went up to Mr. 
\\ intergart for orders. He told me that 
I was to remain upstairs to help the 
ladies with their wraps ; after everyone 
had arrived, I should come down by a 
rear staircase to the kitchen. \Mien the 
refreshments were served, I was to pass 
sandwiches. 

"Remember, sandwiches and nothing 
else," ^Ir. W'intergart admonished me, 
with a stern eye. "When you try some- 
thing else, you get mixed !" 

Then the same little maid led me to 
my position in the line of battle. I w^as 
stationed in a perfectly luscious bedroom 
(there is no other word to describe it), 
all done in rose-color and mahogany, 
with a door leading into a dressing-room 
and white-tiled bathroom. 

Soon the guests began to arrive. Such 
clothes ! The next hour was a dizzy 
whirl of velvets and satins and gorgeous 
headgear. I removed wraps and handed 
out pins and powder, as fast as I could, 
to ladies of all sizes, weights and com- 
plexions. 

"Oh, if my sainted Aunt Caroline 
could only see me now," I said to myself 
as I knelt to remove a stout \voman's 
carriage shoes. 

And she did. For a sort of a choking 
gasp from the stout lady made me raise 
my eyes to her face. Those carriage- 



shoes belonged to Aunt Caroline ! There 
she sat in all her glory of purple and 
furs, staring as though she had seen a 
family ghost. So strange was her expres- 
sion that several of the women noticed 
it, and began gathering around her. This 
brought her to her senses. 

"Don't sit there forever, stupid !" she 
snapped. 'T feel faint; kindly find me 
some smelling salts." 

I rose obediently, though my knees 
were shaking ; but when I came back with 
the bottle of salts, she had gone. 

*'The lady evidently recovered," one of 
the other guests volunteered, noticing my 
confusion. 

I must confess that my first impulse 
was to leave the house at once ; to find 
my things and go, making some excuse 
of illness. Then wdiat Aunt Caroline 
calls the "Russell spirit" asserted itself, 
and I determined to carry the situation 
through with a vim, for I am an inde- 
pendent woman in spite of. or, perhaps, 
because of my aunt. Then we, Philip 
and I, needed three dollars so much. This 
last thought swept away all doubts and 
hesitations. I remembered Mr. W'inter- 
gart and the sandwiches and hastened to 
descend to regions below stairs. 

Here all was activity and life, but not 
confusion ; confusion was impossible 
where Air. W'intergart marshalled his 
forces. He placed me at a large table 
where two girls w^ere removing oiled 
paper from packages of sandwiches. 
They looked delicious — the sandwiches — 
not the girls — white bread, brown bread, 
nut, and salad, cut in dainty shapes. 

''Aunt Caroline will like the salad," I 
thought. I found myself feeling very 
sorry for her, as I remembered how she 
sat there, up in that room, rigid with 
wrath and surprise. 

Besides, I like salad sandwiches my- 
self, and I was hungry; milk and a 
cracker do not last when one has had a 
meagre breakfast. 

"Don't those look good," the girl next 
me whispered. 

We were arranging them in pretty bas- 



THE CAPITULATION OF AUXT CAROLINE 



109 



( kets. The aroma of coffee tilled the air. 

Just then Mr. W'intergart's voice 
sounded out, quick and sharp, "All 
ready now ! We are going to begin to 
serve." 

"The Charge of the Light Brigade'' 
kept running through my head. I learned 
it when I was in school. I grasped my 
basket and followed the other girls 
through the doors into the dining-room. 
I knew I should in all probability be 
obliged to serve Aunt Caroline, but I 
was fully prepared to carry out my part 
of deferential maid, since she had as- 
sumed toward me that of a haughty dame 
of fashion. In the center of the great 
room stood a table massed with flowers 
and lights ; the guests were not at tables, 
but seated in groups about the room. I 
walked toward the first group and of- 
fered them my wares. Aunt Caroline 
was not among them, nor in any of the 
other groups. I was just leaving the last 
when a footman, holding a large silver 
urn. entered and walked toward the 
table. Something in his pose made my 
heart give a quick jerk; then it seemed 
to stop beating entirely. 

The footman was Philip ! 

This second shock was too much, and 
the room seemed to grow dark and turn 
around me. But he caught sight of me, 
at the same instant, and stood stock-still, 
staring, while that urn began to waver. I 
recovered then, because I knew he would 
drop it in another second. I went up to 
him as though to give some instructions. 

"Put it down," I whispered fiercely, 
and gave him a little shove toward the 
table. After that I left the room as 
steadily as I could ; he followed me out. 

The funny thing about it was. that 
each of us was angry with the other for 
being there, and I think, if there had 
been time, our first quarrel would have 
happened right there. 

"Tanette, what in the world are you . 
doing here?" Philip said, as sternly as 
was possible in a stage whisper. 

''Earning three dollars. But 1 thought 
you were interviewing some men down- 



town ? You told me you were going to," 
I said accusingly. Then I suddenly re- 
membered how complicated the plot was, 
and grasping him, whispered desperately, 
"Have you seen Aunt Caroline?" 

"Aunt Car Great Scott! No! She 

isn't here?" 

"Yes she is — unless she's gone. Hush, 
here comes some one," and I slipped 
away, leaving him in a state of utter be- 
wilderment and stupefaction. 

I went out into the kitchen as though 
to refill my basket with sandwiches. The 
fine flavor of this adventure had departed 
and my heart was sore. To think of 
Philip, with all his wonderful talent, be- 
ing obliged to assume a footman's dress 
and serve coffee at an afternoon recep- 
tion, all for a few paltry dollars ! But 
there was nothing now to do, except to 
pray for the end of the day, and — go on 
passin(^ sandwiches. 

The room filled and was emptied again 
twice, and my knees were beginning to 
shake with hunger and excitement, when 
one of the maids, my little pink-cheeked 
friend, came up to me and said, Mr. 
W'intergart is looking for you." 

I went to him immediately. 

"A lady wishes to speak to you in the 
little reception room at the right of the 
hall, ]\Iiss Smith." (I had given that as 
my name). "She may wash to ask you 
about emplo}ment. Often my waitresses 
find good places in this way," he said, 
patronizingly. "Come back as soon as 
possible." 

Philip was watching us from across 
the room. I nodded at him, reassuringly ; 
he looked so hot and worried, poor fel- 
low. Then I went to find my relative. 
"Their's not to reason why, 
Their's but to do or die." 
I murmured as I hastened down the hall. 
I turned the handle of the door to the 
little reception room and entered with- 
out knocking. 

There sat Aunt Caroline with her lorg- 
nette on her eyes. 

"Did you wish to speak to me, 
madam?" I asked in a small deferential 



no 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



voice, hesitating just inside the door. 

At first she could scarcely speak, she 
was so angry. At last, she snapped, "Yes, 
I do ! Kindly close the door. Now, will 
you be good enough to explain this ridic- 
ulous masquerade and account for your 
appearance in so humiliating a position." 

She glared at me through her glasses, 
but I saw how her hands trembled. 

'*It's quite simple, Aunt, I had to have 
money, and I'm earning it honestly." I 
was determined not to weaken before 
her. 

"And where is your — husband? Has 
he already deserted you?" 

I felt myself grow white with anger, 
and, opening the door, I called loudly, 
"Philip!" 

He was just outside, pretending to 
arrange some wraps, and came in at once. 
I have neglected to state that he was 
dressed in short satin things like knicker- 
bockers, and wore a powdered wig. He 
grew very red as Aunt Caroline stared at 
him through those hateful lorgnettes. I 
hadn't noticed how funny he looked ; he 
is so dignified and reserved — in real life. 



Well — suddenly Aunt Caroline began to 
laugh, and she kept it up ; she rocked back 
and forth and wiped the tears from her 
face. I thought the afternoon had been 
too much for her, and Philip ran to get 
a little glass of cordial. He spilt most of 
it down his ornamental vest and his wig 
got over one side, which gave him a 
queer, wild look. 

At last she gasped out, "Not — ill ! So 
funny — his legs !" 

Philip is very thin and tall. Then she 
went off again. 

She quieted down after a while, and 
begged Philip's pardon, sweet as pie, for 
laughing at him. She came to see us 
next day, and said she admired our 
pluck. 

"You are like me, my dear Janette. 
You have a good stiff back-bone." 

I was very thankful for this family 
trait, when she insisted upon helping us 
out. Philip, through her influence, made 
those illustrations for a child's Shakes- 
peare, which gave him his name. Now 
Aunt Caroline is fonder of him than she 
is of me. but I don't mind. 



Down Hemlock Lane 

When my heart wearies, then I go 
Where hemlocks their dark shadows throw 
A guarding line of strength they stand. 
To hedge the plot of wooded land.' 

Beyond them all is cool and green, 
And no intruding face is seen. 
This side, a field of mulleins gray 
Shuts toil and toiler far away; 
No hurried step, no busy hand, 
Is needed in the mulleined land. 



Dear hemlock lane I Dear solitude! 
May no despoiler here intrude 
To rob you of these towers whose grace 
And strength seem Nature's own embrace ; 
But still when earth enfolds my sleep. 
May they their tireless vigils keep! 

Cora A, Matson Dolson, 



His Wife's Party 



By Clio Mamer 



JOHN TURNER mopped his brow 
as he climbed the three flights of 
stairs which led to his apartment. 
Outside the door he paused before in- 
serting the key in the lock. 'T do hope 
Helen hasn't gone to work and cooked a 
big dinner," he murmured to himself. 
"The flat will be suffocating if she has. 
Why didn't I have sense enough to tele- 
phone her, and we could have had a nice 
cold little supper at one of the gardens. 
This is no weather for a woman to be 
standing over a hot cook stove, nor for 
a man to be eating a heavy meal." 

He turned the key and let himself into 
the flat with a sigh. The place was 
stifling. "Say, Helen," he called in a 
penitent tone, 'T'm a brute to let you 
stand over a stove a day like this. Let's 
eat and get out of here as fast as we 
can. How about a little trip on the lake 
to cool off?" 

There was no answer to* his question, 
and John began vaguly to feel that there 
was something wrong. Then he noticed 
that the table in the dining room had not 
been laid for dinner, and that the usual 
odor of cooking food was absent. With 
a puzzled look upon his face, he pushed 
open the kitchen door. Still no Helen. 
Then he tiptoed into the bedroom. Per- 
haps she had taken a nap and had over- 
slept. If so, he would not waken her. 
His search was unsuccessful, and John's 
face had a rather worried look when he 
reappeared in the dining room. It was 
so unlike Helen not to be at home when 
he returned from town that he did not 
quite know what to make of it. He 
glanced about hoping to find some ex- 
planation for this odd state of aft'airs. 
There it was, right before his very eyes, 
in the very center of the table — a letter 
addressed to Mr. John Turner in his 
wife's best handwriting. How stupid of 
him not to have noticed it sooner. *T 



hope it's not bad news," he ejaculated, 
as he broke the seal. Then a smile il- 
lumined his face as he read the note 
within : 

Dear John, — Will you please come to 
my party? You'll find me at the boat 
pavillion in Garfield Park. It was so 
warm that I took my fancy work and 
went over to the park for a breath of 
air. I have a nice little lunch for just 
the two of us, and I hope you'll not miss 
your warm dinner very much. 
Lovingly, 

Helen. 

'T hope you'll not miss your warm 
dinner very much," repeated John, as he 
hurried down the stairs. "Haven't I the 
original little wife, though ? Always sur- 
prising me in some way or other. Funny, 
I never thought of asking her to put up 
a lunch for us to eat in the park, and 
the park's only a block away. I won- 
der what she has in that picnic basket. 
We haven't been married long enough 
for me to know her party menus by 
heart." 

"I've come to your party, wifey mine," 
called out John, as his wife came down 
the path to meet him. "What's in the 
lunch box?" as he took it from her. 

"No, no, you mustn't peek," as John, 
boylike, tried to shove up the Hd. "You 
must wait until we reach that clump of 
shady bushes over there, for we're going 
to have a real picnic and eat on the 
grass." 

John made a dash for the spot indi- 
cated, and by the time Helen caught up 
to him, he had their supper spread out 
upon the grass. John thought it was the 
best meal he had ever tasted. There 
were sandwiches of cold veal, which John 
declared he couldn't tell from chicken 
sandwiches, deviled eggs, a jar of potato 
salad, and cake and fruit. 

"Where's the ice-cream," he laughed, 



111 



112 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



after he had eaten everything in sight. 

"Ice-cream?" qnestioned Helen. 

"Sure, it wouldn't he a real picnic 
without ice-cream," he hadgered, and in 
a moment he was off in the direction of 
the pax'illion. When Helen saw him 
next, he had an immense ice-cream cone 
in each hand. They ate their dessert like 
two happy school children out for a lark. 

When they had finished eating, John 
put his arm about his wife. "Let's do 
this every night, Helen," he pleaded. It 
makes me feel just like a kid again, only 
happier, because I didn't have you along 
then." 

A cool, refreshing breeze was blowing 
in from the lake, and as Helen thought 
of the hot, stufify dining room in which 
they had eaten so many hot dinners, she 
was tempted to accede to his demand, but 
she was a wise little woman, and so she 
answered: "Not every night, John, dear. 
Don't forget the old saying : 'Variety is 
the spice of life.' W^e'd soon grow tired 
of our picnics if we had them every day. 
Let's keep them for the very hottest 
evenings, and let's have them come as 
surprises, too." 

Of course, John agreed to what Helen 
said, and as a result of her wisdom in 
limiting the number of their outdoor sup- 
pers, her husband looked forward to 
them all during the long, hot summer. 
He never could tell exactly when he 



would be invited to dine in the park, for 
he never could feel certain of his wife's 
intention until he returned at night to 
find her invitation waiting for him upon 
the dining room table. Those were, in- 
deed, restful and enjoyable evenings 
which the young married couple spent to- 
gether in the park, and, best of all, they 
did not constitute a drain upon John's 
slender income, as most other outings 
would have done. Helen always had the 
daintiest and, at the same time, the most 
substantial lunches possible, for she real- 
ized that John's appetite had not out- 
grown its boyhood capacity. After they 
had eaten their supper, they would stroll 
about the park or row upon the lagoon. 
Perhaps it was because they w^ere 
newly-weds that the plan worked so suc- 
cessfully, but I doubt if there is any man, 
no matter how long he has been married, 
who would not enjoy an occasional out- 
ing of the kind described above. Most 
men are glad of a chance, once in a while, 
to live over their childhood or boyhood 
days, if their wives will only give them a 
chance. And even if romance has de- 
parted from their lives, the love of com- 
fort has not, and it is certainly more con- 
ducive to comfort to eat a cold meal in 
a breezy spot, upon a scorching day, than 
to eat a vv^arm meal in a dining room, in 
which the thermometer registers any- 
thing from 90 to a 100 degrees or more. 



The Borrowed Dinner 

By Gertrude Clark Hanson 



TOM HARTON came upstairs two 
steps at a time just as his wife, 
with a guilty glance at the clock, 
was taking off her hat. 
''Dinner ready, dear?" 
"N-no, not quite," Kit answered rather 
shamefacedly, "I truly didn't mean to be 
late again tonight, Tommy, but after the 
matinee Nell proposed going to Jensen's 



for an ice, and we met the Blake girls 
there and sat and visited and I had no 
idea it was getting so late." 

At this juncture a boy in uniform rang 
the door-bell and Tom went down ; a 
moment later he came racing back with 
a wild whoop of joy. "A telegram from 
Aunt Maria! Listen!" and he read 
excitedly : 



THE BORROWED DINNER 



113 



Thomas Barton, 

834 Piatt Terrace, Cleveland ; 
Stopping between trains : dinner with 
you : don't meet me. 

Maria Finxev. 
*'Gee! It will do me no end of good 
to see somebody from home!" Then he 
stopped short and looked anxiously at 
Kit. " V/hat have we for dinner, Girlie ?" 
"Em awfully sorry,'' she began con- 
tritely, "but you see, Tom, it was so late 
when I got home and the grocery was 
closed and I can't seem to remember 
about ordering in the morning. I thought 
we'd have to do with a pick-up meal this 
time. It's one of my "ofT-evenings." 

"I see," said Tom, gallantly ignoring 
the fact that most of his pleasure-loving 
bride's evenings were of that variety, 
*'but just exactly what is there on hand?'' 
''Well, there's a little cold meat from 
the Sunday roast — I thought I'd make 
some hash. And we can open some sar- 
dines — no, we can't either, there aren't 
any. But there's a can of soup." 

''Shades of my grandmother! Hash 
and canned soup for Aunt Maria 
Einney! She looks on canned stuff as 
the last resort of the shiftless and, as 
for hash, well, Aunt Maria's an expert 
on hash, and yours, my dear — " 

'A^ery well," came in muffled tones 
from the depths of Kit's handkerchief, 
"you'll have to try the delicatessen shop." 
"Closed half an hour ago," Tom an- 
swered, snapping his watch ; "what on 
earth can we do, short of hiding from 
her, I don't see." Then suddenly his 
face cleared. "I'll tell you, Kit," he said 
coaxingly, "let's ask the Wilders to help 
us out. Anne's a good cook and I don't 
think they're at dinner yet; Ered came 
out with me." 

"Thomas Barton !" Kit cried, turning 
on him with flaming cheeks, "I will not 
borrow my dinner from Anne Wilder. 
That's settled." 

"And I," Tom retorted with the vigor 
of a turning worm, "will not have Aunt 
Maria go back to Kingsport feeling 
sorrv for me. That's settled. It's not 



my fault that we're in such a mess. Will 
you go ask Anne, or shall I ? You won't? 
Then you can set the table while I go." 

Generous Mrs. Wilder and her hus- 
band entered heartily into the difficulty 
and Tom was soon speeding homeward 
across the back lot with Anne's dinner 
and some roses from her garden. Kit 
took the tray, ungraciously enough, while 
Tom hurried to welcome Aunt Maria 
who arrived thus opportuntely. The 
table was beautifully arranged and the 
dinner all that even Aunt Maria could 
ask. Kit presided with grace and dig- 
nity, albeit her cheeks were pinker than 
usual and her eyes ominously bright. 

"\\ hat lovely rolls!" was Aunt Maria's 
first remark as they sat down to dinner. 
"xA-fter all, there's nothing can take the 
place of home-made bread, is there, 
Tom?" Then, turning to Kit, "Do you 
make them with milk or water, Kath- 
erine?'' 

"I use half and half,'' Kit answered, 
flashing a defiant look at Tom. 

"And the meat is excellent," continued 
the kindly old lady, after a pause, "so 
few cooks know how to make a small 
roast tender and juicy. The salad is 
delicious, too. You must tell me how 
you make it." 

"Certainly, Aunt Maria ; I'll write oft' 
the recipe and send it to you," Kit par- 
ried skilfully and Tom chuckled in- 
wardly, in spite of some misgivings as 
to the outcome of his rash expedient. 

Aunt Maria praised everything, down 
to the coffee which arrived with the des- 
sert via the back gate. When the even- 
ing was over and she was ready to go, 
she took Kit's soft round face in her 
hands and kissed it tenderly. "My dear," 
she said, 'T'm going home very happy 
about Tom. He deserves a good home, 
and when we knew that he was to marry 
a business woman, w^e couldn't help wor- 
rying a little for fear she wouldn't know 
how to take care of him. But I shall 
tell his mother that no girl could have 
done better." 

Left to herself, while Tom escorted 



114 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Aunt Maria to tlie train, Kit plunged 
savagely into the dish-washing, her hot 
tears falling recklessly on Anne's best 
china platter. She hated Aunt Maria, 
who had innocently precipitated the 
storm ; she hated Tom for humiliating 
her; most of all she hated Anne, the 
capable, whose housekeeping experience 
was only a trifle longer than her own. 

*'I almost wish I had never left the 
office," she wailed. ''Nobody ever crit- 
icized me there. Mr. Carter often said 
that I was the most capable stenographer 
he ever had. Of course, I could keep 
house as well as Anne does, if I chose 
to be as 'kitchen-minded' as she is." 
Here she paused and shook her head, 
for Kit, though frivolous, was honest. 

"No," she said thoughtfully, as she 
hung up the dishpan, ''it's not that. 
Anne isn't kitchen-minded ; she keeps up 
all of her old outside interests and her 
papers were the best in the club this 
winter. She doesn't spend much more 
time at her housework than I do, and 
she often comes home late, but her meals 
don't seem to suffer as mine do and her 



house always looks nice. 1 wonder if it 
isn't that she uses her brains about her 
housekeeping just as she used to about 
her teaching. / certainly don't; I've 
gone on the theory that it could be done 
any old way, and a pretty mess I've made 
of it. I'm going to bed and think things 
over, for I don't feel like talking tonight 
and I'm pretty sure Tom won't either." 
And so it was that when Tom came in, 
fifteen minutes later, she was, to all in- 
tents and purposes, wrapped in childlike 
slumber. 

Breakfast was a silent meal; Kit was 
preoccupied and failed to notice Tom's 
wistful glances, but the warmth of her 
goodby kiss was reassuring. When he 
had gone, she went straightway to see 
Anne Wilder. 

"Anne," she said whimsically, "I'd 
like to hate you for being so superior, 
but I can't afford to. I've simply got to 
have your recipe for pineapple salad. 
And I'd like the name of that cooking- 
magazine you're always quoting. And, 
if it isn't too much trouble, I'd be glad 
to look at vour fireless cooker." 



Crystal-Gazing in the Kitchen 

By Frances E. Gale 



BEFORE we settled down for a 
cosy hour in the parlor, the 
Housekeeper Who Likes Her 
Work led the way to her kitchen and 
pointed to a table on which were ranged 
jars of freshly put up fruit, cooling be- 
fore transference to pantry shelves. The 
lines of her face showed physical fatigue, 
but her eyes shone, and her expression 
was of one satisfied that work well done 
had earned the right to rest and self- 
congratulation. 

"Isn't that a fine sight?" she asked 
proudly. "Canning fruit is the favorite 
of all my 'big' jobs, but the peaches are 
the most important. When they are 



done I feel that we are safe for the win- 
ter, even if the grapes and crab-apples 
should fail. I was up at five this morn- 
ing peeling the fruit, and I asked Tom 
to take his lunch down town so I would 
not have to stop, and now it's all done, 
and doesn't it look good?" 

It certainly did, those that were done 
whole lying in syrup as clear as the glass 
through which the still rosy-cheeked 
fruit beckoned the hungry beholder, and 
those that were quartered showing here 
and there through their yellow richness a 
kernel, the delicious, nutty flavor of 
which one could almost taste. 

"The boys love the kernels," she said, 



CRYSTAL GAZING IN THE KITCHEN 



115 



"so I always put a few in, and I don't 
believe they are a bit unwholesome." 

''There's nothing unwholesome in 
those jars," I said emphatically, and then 
we went back to the big chair and the 
cosy corner and I began to dig down un- 
der the surface for the real reason of 
my friend's habitual cheery outlook 

"You say that this fruit business is 
your favorite job, yet most housekeepers 
regard it as only second to spring house- 
cleaning, in its demand upon strength 
and patience. \\'hat makes your view so 
different?" 

"Spring housecleaning isn't so bad," 
laughed the Housekeeper Who Likes 
Her Work. "There's a deal of satis- 
faction in it after it's done, but it doesn't 
talk to me w^hile I'm doing it as my jars 
-of fruit do. Peaches, especially, have a 
great deal to say, because everybody 
likes them. There are twenty jars out 
there. That means at least forty dishes, 
and I know that every dish represents 
pleasure to several people. Healthy 
pleasure, too, because I know there isn't 
one unwholesome thing inside that glass 
— no inferior fruit, no chemical coloring, 
no glucose — nothing but fresh, firm 
peaches, pure sugar and absolute cleanli- 
ness. I can look into those jars and see 
things that no crytal-gazer can show me 
in her magic globe, because the things I 
see there are sure to come true. 

"First I can see Tom, tasting critically 
the first saucer of the new batch, saying : 
T believe, Emily, this lot is even better 
than last year's. Don't you think so?' 
Dear old Tom! He always thinks it's 
better. Then, I can see Gerald, polishing 
off the last spoonful of juice from his 
plate and saying: 'Gee, Mother, your 
peaches are great ! Can't I have some 
more?' And in another jar I can see 
Tom's partner. He's dyspeptic, and 
comically fussy about his food, but he 
always takes 'just a single peach', because 
my whole ones look so tempting, and 
ends by eating three and not being the 
least damaged thereby. And in another 



jar I can see all the members of our 
sewing club. I always have them for 
a sort of high-tea the day they meet here, 
and a big dish of those peaches is sure 
to make a part of the meal. And did 
you notice one little bottle with just 
three very large, handsome peaches? 
Probably you thought it was silly to go 
to the trouble of sealing up so small a 
quantity. But in that small jar I can 
see a little crippled boy sitting in his 
wheel-chair smiling over the fruit that 
he knows was put up specially for him. 
He is my charwoman's child, and any 
little thing like that delights him, and her. 

"Then there is, at least, one big jar 
that later on will, be divided into small 
glasses, and in that jar I can see per- 
haps a dozen old faces that for a short 
time have lost the sad, hopeless expres- 
sion that always goes to my heart, and 
look pleased and expectant of a little 
treat. The contents of that jar will go 
to the Free Home for the Aged in the 
next block. 

"Why I can't think of a single tea- 
spoonful of all that twenty jars that 
won't convey innocent pleasure to some- 
one, and wholesome nourishment as well. 
Is it any wonder I enjoy putting it up? 

"It's the same way, more or less, with 
most things I do here in our home. 
Sometimes I feel a little sorry for Tom. 
He doesn't get so close to the real mean- 
ing of our work as I do. Of course, we 
are equal partners in the big business of 
our lives — making a home, a center from 
which all the influences of a home radi- 
ate out, but his share is just to earn the 
money and to bring his own big, com- 
fortable personality into it in leisure 
hours, while mine is to work out the de- 
tails, both as regards our own lives and 
the lives of others whom we reach. Of 
course Tom has his interests, too, apart 
from mine, and I'm not jealous of them, 
but sometimes I try to tell him of the 
things I see in the kitchen or the boys' 
room, and then he says I am a dreamer — 
but I know he understands." 



fwo Old Poems of Devon 



Bv Louisa Robert 



"Three sailors went sailing out into the West, 
Out into the West as the sun went down ; 
Each thought on the woman who lov'd him the 

best, 
And the children stood watching them out of 

the town ; 
For men must work and women must weep, 
And there's little to earn, and many to keep, 
Though the harbor bar be moaning." 

WE had long known these verses 
of Charles Kingsley's, but not 
until we stood in the little 
churchyard at Clovelly Court, among the 
tombstones marked, "Lost at Sea", 
"Drowned", did we have much realiza- 
tion of what the lines meant. We had 
just seen the tablet to the memory of 
Charles Kingsley in the church — his fa- 
ther had been the rector at Clovelly 
Court when Charles was a boy, and later 
when his health l)roke at Eversley, 
Charles Kingsley, the dean of Westmin- 
ster, came back to Clovelly to rest. It 
was for the fishermen of Clovelly and 
all along the coast to Bideford, that he 
wrote "The Three Fishers". 

Our most delightful acquaintance in 
Clovelly was a sailor. W^e called him 
''Us", because he always spoke of him- 
self as "Us" instead of "I". 

"Us" told us that one night the sailing 
craft, on which he was returning from 
Spain, attempted to land off the coast 
of Cornwall in a terrible storm. The 
captain threw out a life line which the 
coast guard caught and the captain tried 
to cross ; but he could not climb over 
the wall of the breakwater. 

There was only one coast-guard on 
duty, and "Us" said, " 'E w^as a nippin' 
the rope and 'e couldn't do nothing." 
''Us" was doing all "Us" could, but "Us" 
couldn't do nothing. They sent out a 
life preserver, but it was blown against 
the breakwater where it stuck just like 
a piece of paper. After awhile, the cap- 



tain, beaten by the winds and the waves, 
dropped into the sea. 

The captain's wife was aboard. She 
did not know what had happened in the 
darkness ; but missing a man, she thought 
that her husband stood beside her and 
that the first mate was gone. "Oh, dear 
Tom, where is poor Jack?" she said. 
"Us" said the mate thought he might as 
well tell her first as last : so he said, "My 
good woman, it's Jack that's here be- 
side you ; and it is poor Tom who is in 
the sea" ; 'ithout a word, she fell at his 
feet in a dead faint. 

'•But men must work, and women must weep, 
Though storms be sudden and waters deep ; 
And the harbor bar be moaning." 

Another story "Us" told us was of 
seeing the hulk of a ship ablaze far out 
at sea one night as he was returning 
from South America. The next day they 
picked up four men in an open boat — 
three Germans and a negro. After 
awhile the negro "peached" on the oth- 
ers. He said they had mutinied, had 
killed the captain and the crew, and with 
a fifth man, an Irishman, had put to sea 
in an open boat. The Germans were 
afraid the Irishman would "peach on 
them," so they killed him and threw 
him overboard. The captain at once 
put them in irons. When they landed 
they were tried and hanged — all but the 
negro, "who turned state's evidence. 
"Us" always thought that the blazing 
hulk had been set afire by the German 
nuitineers. But "Us" went on to say 
that when men mutinied at sea it was 
usually because the captain and the offi- 
cers were brutal men who swore at the 
sailors and abused them until they could 
endure it no longer. 

Clovelly is the prettiest little town in 
Devon. It is a paradise for artists. It 
lies in a richly wooded comb that leads 
to the sea, with lovelv, old-fashioned 



116 



TWO OLD POEMS OF DEVON 



117 



houses along the one narrow street, 
which is terraced, and paved with cobble 
stones. Roses and fuschias climb to the 
very roofs of the white-washed houses. 

Mrs. Christine Hamelyn, who owns 
every house in the village and all the 
land for miles around, will have nothing 
changed from the way things were hun- 
dreds of years ago — even so long ago as 
when Sir Walter Raleigh was gathering 
up a company of Devonshire men to 
colonize Virginia. There are no vehi- 
cles, except donkeys, to carry the bur- 
dens from the boat landing up the hill ; 
no street light, and we went to bed l)y 
candle light, but our casement windows 
framed views of cliffs and sea just like 
Turner's paintings — the same mist-en- 
veloped cliff's and opalescent sea. 

At one side of the comb is Hobby 
Drive, one of the most charming wood- 
land drives in England. At the other 
side is Clovelly Court ; the home of the 
ancient Cary family now represented by 
Mrs. Christine Hamelyn, a real lady of 
the manor. Near by are the church and 
the vicarage. 

As we climbed the hill to church on 
the Sabbath day we heard the bells ring- 
ing out a kind of rude chime ; and when 
we entered we saw six men who had laid 
aside their coats, and, in their decent 
white shirts, were pulling the six bell 
ropes and counting the time. The doc- 
tor, the village artist, and some of the 
villagers were in attendance, but most of 
the fisher- folk we had seen flocking into 
the chapel half way up the hill. These 
Devonshire people have a sort of refined 
beauty with slender faces and dark in- 
telligent eyes. 

In the days of good Queen Bess, Dev- 
onshire was the foremost county in Eng- 
land. Elizabeth called Devon her right 
hand. One of Raleigh's passports to her 
favor was the fact that he spoke the 
broadest dialect of the shire, and never 
abandoned it for the speech at court. 
And well might the Queen call Devon 
her right hand, for Sir Walter Raleigh, 
Sir Humphry Gilbert, Sir Francis Drake, 



Sir Martin Frobisher, Sir Richard Gren- 
ville were all Devonshire men. 

Another poem of Devon is Tennyson's 
ballad, 'The Revenge", in which he cele- 
brates Sir Richard Grenville, Sir Rich- 
ard Grenville, who in 
"The little Revenge ran on sheer into the 

heart of the foe, 
With her hundred fighters on deck and her 

ninety sick below, 
Men of Eideford in Devon." 

Grenville was vice-admiral of a small 
fleet of English ships, sent to intercept 
the Spanish treasure ships, returning 
from the West Indies in 1591; off the 
Azores, the Spaniards with a fleet of 
fifty-three ships came upon the English. 
Five of the six of the Queen's ships es- 
caped, but Grenville delayed to bring his 
sick on board. He was attacked by fif- 
teen of the Spanish ships. Then fol- 
lowed the famous fight. It lasted fifteen 
hours, (jrenville surrendered only when 
he was mortally wounded. Tennyson 
tells the story with stirring words : 

"And the sun went down, and the stars came 

out, far over the summer sea, 
But never a moment ceased the fight of the 

one and the fifty-three; 
Ship after ship, the whole night long, their 

high built galleons came, 
Ship after ship, the whole night long, with 

her battle thunder and flame ; 
Ship after ship, the whole night long, drew 

back with her dead and her shame, 
For some were sunk and many were shattered, 

and so could fight no more : 
God of battles, was ever a battle like this in 

the world before?" 

"And the stately Spanish men to their flagship 
bore him then. 

Where they laid him by the mast, old Sir 
Richard, caught at last, 

And they praised him to his face with their 
courtly foreign grace ; 

But he rose upon their decks, and he cried : 

I have fought for Queen and Faith like a val- 
iant man and true; 

I have only done my duty as a man is bound 
to do. 

With a joyful spirit I, Sir Richard Grenville 
die! 

And he fell upon their decks, and he died." 



118 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To OTHER Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of owturship atid management as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, I<)i2. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers : R. B. HiLL, B. M, Hill. 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill. 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co., 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Mattek 

A TIME FOR EVERYTHING 

THE vacation season is on once 
more. The residential streets of 
the cities are abandoned; people have 
gone on their summer outings. Let 
everybody have the enjoyiT^ent and 
benefit of the annual vacation season. 
The respite from continuous effort 
the editor of this magazine receives 
at this season is of inestimable value 
to her. It makes for renewed inter- 
est and usefulness for the whole year. 
Change of air, food and occupation, in 
fact, all changes are beneficial; health 



is of far greater consequence than 
money saved. 

For children vacations are usually 
provided, and yet they need them far 
less than housekeepers and home- 
makers. For the most part, life for 
the young is one prolonged vacation. 
In the training of youth "sport" is the 
most conspicuous feature. 

By far the most imperative need of 
a season of rest and recuperation is 
on the part of the homemaker, in both 
town and country. The yearly outing 
not only renews strength and courage 
but it prolongs life. No other pre- 
scription in the calendar of restora- 
tives can take the place of that of sea- 
sonable rest and recreation. Those j 
who are engaged during the hot J 
months of the year in, entertaining 
strangers should plan for their own 
outings before or after the migration 
of the summer visitors. But, in no 
case, should the yearly vacation of the 
housewife be disregarded. 

May every reader of American 
Cookery enjoy a long, wholesome and 
invigorating vacation. The coming 
year should be full of promise and 
prosperity. 

THE LIVING GARMENT 

KIPLING is quite right when he 
declares that "The Colonel's lady 
and Judy O'Grady are sisters under 
their skin." But even though they be 
sisters to their very marrow bones, 
that is no reason why they should 
dress alike. The oak is sister to the 
elm, and the maple and the evergreen 
are distant cousins, but each has its 
distinctive garment. Imagine looking 
out the window to find that every tree 
in the landscape was imitating the 
cypress, because it was the current 
style to be tall and slender, or the 
spreading sweep of the beech, if hoop- 
skirts should return ! The willows in 
the valley dip slender fingers in the 
water below them, but the pine upon 
tlie hilltop stands upright, reaching 



EDITORIALS 



119 



heavenward, and each fits his place to 
our complete satisfaction. And by the 
grace of God and the sanity of nature 
the cedars do not lay their green 
beauty aside simply because ''decidu- 
ous garments will be much in evidence 
this Fall !" 

Now if I am to spend nine-tenths of 
my time in my kitchen, I shall have 
a w^isely corresponding proportion of 
my garments made in a style suitable 
for~kitchen purposes, and in the re- 
maining one-tenth I shall imitate the 
lilies of the field rather than Solomon. 
Everybody can afford to dress like a 
flower, but the glory of Solomon 
comes high. If the trained nurse and 
the soldier lad take pride in their uni- 
forms, and Uncle Sam's policemen and 
mail-carriers are, at least, not ashamed 
of theirs, let me endure with serenity 
the kitchen badge, the large and 
capable apron. If Judy O'Grady 
should wear in the kitchen an ancient 
silk waist with soiled lace dribbling 
from the sleeves and a skirt that has 
parted company with itself in gaping 
seams, and if the Colonel's lady wear 
in the parlor a never-so-splendid neg- 
ligee and curl-papers, they would look 
at each other askance, and would not 
feel in the least like the sisters they 
are. But Judy in a clean gingham 
dress and apron has a friendly feeling 
and a sincere respect for her mistress 
in a dainty and appropriate gown, and 
vice versa. Their hearts, if normal, 
will even warm towards each other, 
for they know in the bottom of those 
same hearts that suitable raiment is 
gracious, purposeful, living and rest- 
ful beyond measure to the eye wearied 
by looking at the dowdy and the 
. freakish. h. c. c. 

'^T^HE following excerpts are from 

A a recent editorial in The Philis- 

,tine, which advocates temperance in 

all things and the keeping of the great 

commandment : 

To be lovable, one has to have cer- 



tain qualities — physical, mental and 
moral. 

And our moral and mental qualities, 
psychologists now tell us, turn largely 
on our physical condition. 

The body is the instrument of 
Deity. It should be servant to the 
soul. Through the body do we reflect 
the Supreme Intelligence of which we 
are a part. 

Those rare moments when we are 
in tune with the Infinite are only pos- 
sible when the body does its perfect 
work. 

"The sick man is a rascal," said old 
Doctor Johnson. And the world now 
knows it is true. To be well is not 
only a privilege, but a duty. The days 
of the flagellants are gone. 

The chief cause of illness among 
Americans is overeating. In India, it 
may be famine, but here, as a people, 
we eat to repletion, and our energies 
are taxed getting rid of the waste. 

Over ninety per cent of our mala- 
dies are caused by malnutrition. The 
ambulance is at the door, and the 
ether-cone and scalpel are ours. That 
fashionable complaint, appendicitis, is 
always preceded by impaction, and be- 
fore this comes a dull, sluggish con- 
dition where the peristaltic action of 
the digestive tract grows tired and 
falters. 

Relief is sought in medication, and 
the "dope habit" is upon us. Sluggish- 
ness follows stimulation, as does night 
the day. And there shuffles in a de- 
sire for a pick-me-up, and the man be- 
comes a "fiend." And I hope I do not 
have to explain that a fiend is not 
lovable. 

All of his energies are being con- 
sumed in running his boiler, and there 
is no power left for the pulleys. Bad 
breath, watery eyes, pain in the side, 
dancing spots on the vision, flatulence, 
dizziness, headache, all mean food- 
poisoning. What is called heart-dis- 
ease is usually a form of indigestion. 

Many people eat four meals a day — 



120 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



breakfast, luncheon, dinner, and sup- 
per after the theater. Such folks are 
bound to suffer, and much of the time 
are, consequently, unloving- and unlov- 
able. 

When you are aware you have a 
stomach, you are given to introspec- 
tion, and introspection means misery. 
And misery is contagious. 
Also, I might add, happiness is not 
only contagious but infectious. 

Joy runs over and inundates every- 
thing. It bubbles, effervesces, over- 
flows its banks, and makes the waste 
places green. We keep joy by giving 
it away. A thought is not our own 
until we impart it to another. And in 
order to have sweet and joyous 
thoughts, you must have a bod}^ that 
can mirror your mood. 

Cut down your food quantity, and 
increase your breathing capacity, and 
note how your thinking improves. 

Also, select your food with greater 
care. Taste is the test. Cultivate 
taste. Enjoy eating. 

Fifty per cent of people eat like In- 
dians. They gobble, guzzle and bolt. 
They eat anything and everything that 
is brought on. This is the true farm- 
hand habit. 

A second class, say thirty per cent, 
want variety — endless variety — a doz- 
en dishes at a meal. These are the 
people who like the old-time Amer- 
ican-plan hotel, where an army of 
dishes surrounded your plate, and you 
ate vigorously into each. 

The third class diner selects with 
care. He has a discriminating palate. 
He cultivates the sense of taste. He 
wants one dish at a time, delicately 
served. He practises art in eating, for 
"art is selection," says Whistler. The 
musician selects notes ; the artist col- 
ors ; the writer words and ideas. 

Be an artist and you will be both 
loving and lovable. 

Cut out quantity and insist on 
quality. 



No person is lovable who eats the 
historic three square meals a day. 

One square meal a day is one too 
many if it makes you dull and drowsy. 
That tokens food-poisoning. Sleep 
when you sleep, but do not mix wake- 
fulness and sleep. Both are beautiful, 
but one at a time, please, one at a 
time ! 

Yes, lovableness, that is what I said. 
A good breath, rosy lips, white teeth, 
a clear tongue, clear eyes! These 
things mean bodily well-being, then 
the ability to think clearly, and act 
wisely, to be patient, gentle, sympa- 
thetic, helpful— LOVABLE! 

FOR LITERARY MEN 

Sir Charles Garvice says that ''not one 
literary man in fifty can eat porridge." 
Thomas Carlyle has been quoted as a 
shocking example of the effect of por- 
ridge, which he ate regularly for break- 
fast, on health and temper, but his phy- 
sician. Sir Richard Ouain, stated in 1895, 
that the ^'dyspepsia to which Air. Carlyle 
was subject was fully accounted for by 
the fact that he was particularly fond of 
very nasty gingerbread. Many times I 
have seen him sitting in the corner smok- 
ing a clay pipe and eating this ginger- 
bread." 



"This Same Myself" 

I built a woman for you, day by day ; 

I built her out of gladness and of pain; 

No least material did I disdain 
Of joy and hope and daring and dismay; 
Of sadness did I build her, and delay ; 

And sympathy and love I used again 

To shape her sweetly, softly, for jour gain; 
I made her, for your using, of my clay. 



Of longing is she shaped, and mystery ; 
Of holiness, and toil, and sacrifice ; 
Of torture is she built, not otherwise ; 
And dreams of ages that all women knew 
Now, crowned and all fulfdled, she stands 
here, see. 

This woman that I built, for you, for you. 
Mary Carolyn Davies. 



I 




COUPE ST. JACQUES 

Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is . measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



S 

hot; 
four 



Mayonnaise of Fish 

EPARATE about one pound and a 
half of any fresh, cooked fish in- 
to flakes ; do this while the fish is 
when the fish is cold pour over it 
tablespoonfuls of oil, two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar, half a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and pepper, and half a tea- 
spoonful of grated onion, thoroughly 
blended; mix with two forks very 
lightly, that the flakes be not broken. 
Dispose in a mound on a serving dish ; 
over the top spread about three-fourths 
a cup of mayonnaise dressing; set rings 
of pickled beet at the top and surround 
with lettuce-hearts holding chopped 
pickled beet. Sliced or dried cucumbers 
and rings of cucumber may replace the 
beets. 

Fillets of Fish, Marcele Style 

Separate large fillets of fresh fish into 
twelve long but small fillets of same size 



and shape, each fillet being sufficient for 
one service. Spread each fillet with 
d'uxelles preparation (use either fresh 
or dried mushrooms ) ; do not have the 
mixture come quite to the edge of the 
fish ; fold each fillet in the center to en- 
close the preparation, and fasten with a 
buttered toothpick, if needed. Set into 
a buttered dish, pour in a little rich fish 
stock and let cook, very gently, in the 
oven, about fifteen minutes, basting 
three times with a little melted butter or 
the broth in the pan. Remove to a serv- 
ing dish, pour over a pint of Perigueux 
sauce and serve at once. 

D'Uxelles Preparation ' 

Boil a peeled onion five minutes, drain 
and dry on a cloth ; slice the onion and 
let simmer in a cup of white broth until 
tender, and the broth evaporates, then 
press through a sieve. Melt one-fourth 
a cup of butter; in it cook half a cup of 
flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, 



121 



12*2 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of salt and paprika ; stir in the puree 
with cream and broth added to it to 
make in all one cup and a fourth of liq- 
uid ; continue to stir until boiling. Chop 
fine one- fourth a pound of fresh mush- 
rooms or half a cup of dried mushrooms, 
soaked in cold water ; cook in a table- 
spoonful of butter until dried off a lit- 
tle, then stir into the sauce ; add the 
well beaten yolk of an egg and use as 
directed. 

Perigueux Sauce 

Melt one-fourth a cup of clarified but- 
ter; in it cook two slices, each, of onion 
and carrot until slightly yellowed ; add 
one-third a cup of flour and cook until 
browned a little, then add two cups of 
consomme, one-third a cup of thick to- 



knife thrust into the center can be re- 
moved without uncooked egg adhering to 
it. Score the top of the omelet, entirely 
across, at right angles to the handle of 
the pan; have ready a generous cup of 
cooked green peas in a cup of cream 
sauce ; spread a little of this mixture on 
one half of the omelet; fold at the scor- 
ing; turn on to a hot platter and pour 
the rest of the peas and sauce around the 
omelet. Serve at once. The peas, sea- 
soned with salt and black pepper, may be 
used without the sauce. 

Fried Chickens with Currant 
Sauce 

Take cleaned chickens a little larger 
than for broiling; separate them into 
pieces at the joints, and dip in beaten 




MAYONNAISE OF FISH 



mato puree, half a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika, and stir until boiling, 
then strain. 

Puffy Omelet with Green Peas 

Beat the whites of four eggs dry and 
the yolks until light-colored and thick ; 
to the yolks add a scant half teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and black pepper and four 
tablespoonfuls of water, mix and turn 
over the whites ; cut and fold the whole 
together evenly ; have ready an omelet 
pan (about nine inches in diameter), 
gradually heated; put a tablespoon ful of 
clarified butter into the pan and turn the 
pan to oil the surface uniformly ; ponr 
in the omelet mixture, spread evenl) , 
and set the pan into a moderate oven 
Let the omelet be undisturbed until a 



egg and then in sifted, soft, bread 
crumbs. Try out fat from salt pork, 
(there should be half an inch in the 
pan) ; put in the pieces of chicken and 
let cook rather slowly until light brown 
on one side, then turn to brown the other 
side. The chicken should cook from 
twenty minutes to half an hour in all. 
Take three tablespoonfuls of the fat 
from the pan ; add three tablespoonfuls 
of flour, a scant half-teaspoonful of salt 
and pepper and cook until the flour is 
absorbed, then add one cup and a half 
of rich, brown, well-flavored stock and 
stir until boiling; finish with a slightly 
rounding tablespoonful of currant jelly. 
Stir until the jelly is melted, then strain. 
Serve with a dish of green peas, or 
fresh string beans. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



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PUFFY OMELET WITH PEAS, READY TO FOLD 



Bread Dressing for Chicken and 
Veal 

Have two cups of soft, fine (stale) 
bread crumbs ; add one-half a cup of 
melted butter, half a teaspoonful, (scant) 
each, of salt, pepper and powdered 
thyme, and mix thoroughly. For fish, 
use the same recipe except if convenient 
use powdered sweet basil in place of 
thyme. For a higher flavored dressing, 
especially for fish, add two tablespoon- 
fuls, each, of fine-chopped green or red 
pepper and onion. Fresh or dried mush- 
rooms (the latter soaked in cold water) 
chopped fine are always a savory addi- 
tion to a dressing of this kind. 



about four by two and one-half inches. 
Press the trimmings and four thin slices 
of bacon through a food chopper; chop 
(by hand) four or five fresh mush- 
rooms, or the equivalent of dried mush- 
rooms (soaked in cold water) and let 
cook with a scraping of onion in a table- 
spoonful of butter; add to the meat 
with half a cup of soft, sifted bread 
crumbs, salt, pepper to season, and 
cream to make soft enough to handle 
nicely. Spread this mixture on the 
pieces of prepared meat, roll and tie 
securely with string or tape, dredge or 
roll with flour, then saute until browned 
a little, on all sides, in fat from salt 
pork. Remove to an earthen dish, cover 




PUFFY OMELET, READY TO SERVE 



Rolled Fillets of Veal with 
Tomatoes 

Have slices of veal from the round 
(veal steak) cut about one-fourth an 
inch thick; pound with a pestle to one- 
half the thickness, and cut into strips 



with broth and let cook in the oven 
about one hour. Select a tomato for 
each two fillets, and have all of the same 
size. Cut the tomatoes in halves, remove 
a little of the flesh, chop this, add any 
forcemeat left over from the fillets, two 
or three tablespoonfuls, each, of chopped 



1-24 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



mushrooms and parsley, salt, pepper an. I 
white sauce or broth to hold the mix- 
ture together; till the spaces in the half- 
tomatoes with this mixture, set in a but- 
tered pan and let cook about ten min- 
utes; dispose the half-tomatoes on a 
serving dish with one of the rolled fillets 
in each. Strain the liquid from the dish 
and use with half the measure of cream 
and butter and flour as needed in mak- 
ing a sauce. Serve this, poured around 
the tomatoes or in a separate dish. 

Potato SoufRe 

Have ready a cup of mashed potato, 
hot or cold; beat in half a cup of rich 
milk, half a teaspoonful of salt and a 
little pepper. Beat the whites of three 
eggs dry, then beat in three yolks of 
eggs and beat the whole into the potato. 
In a gradually heated omelette pan. melt 



then drain again ; melt a tablespoonful 
of butter in a sauce pan; add the 
blanched vegetables and shake the pan 
until the butter is absorbed (do not let 
either butter or vegetable take color) ; 
add white stock (veal or chicken) to 
cover and let cook until tender ; melt 
three tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook 
three tablespoonfuls of flour, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and a dash of pepper, 
then add the broth from the vegetables 
(of which there should be a cup or 
more) and half a cup of cream or rich 
milk ; stir until boiling ; add the hot veg- 
etables and serve at once. 

Potato-and-Green Corn 
Croquettes 

To a pint of hot, well-mashed (use 
ricer) potato, add one cup of green corn 
pulp, about half a teaspoonful, each, of 




ROLLED FILLETS OF VEAL, ROLLED AXD TIED, OTHERS SAUTED, READY FOR CASSEROLE 



a tablespoonful of butter ; in it spread 
the potato mixture ; let cook in a mod- 
erate oven until the whole is well-puffed 
and the tgg set ; score the center of the 
top at right angles_ to the handle of the 
pan ; fold at the scoring and turn on to 
a hot platter. Serve with any dish of 
fish or meat, preferably when the supply 
of either dish is small. 

Kohl-Rabi, Bechamel Style 

Pare about eight tender kohl-rabi, and 
cut into quarters or into six pieces, each ; 
set to cook in boiling water; after boiling 
five minutes, drain, rinse in cold water. 



salt and pepper, and the yolks of two 
eggs ; if dry add a tablespoonful of but- 
ter or one or two tablespoonfuls of 
cream. Mix all together thoroughly, 
then shape, roll in soft, sifted bread 
crumbs, cover with beaten egg, again 
roll in crumbs and fry in deep fat. To 
get the corn pulp, score the kernels 
lengthwise the rows, and press out the 
pulp with the back of the knife. 

Hot Slaw (Cabbage) 

Select a firm head of cabbage; if not 
crisp let stand in cold or ice water an 
hour, then shake and wipe dry ; slice the 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



125 



cabbage very fine, discarding the hard chilled two-quart melon or bombe 
center. For about a pint of cabbage, mold with the ice-cream mixture, then 
beat the yolk of one egg; add half a cup fill the center with the sherbet. Pack 




ROLLED FILLETS OF VEAL WLFH TOMATOES AND GREEN PEAS 



of cream, a tablespoonful of sugar, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
paprika and a scant teaspoonful of mus- 
tard. Mix and cook these over hot 
water, then add gradually a scant half- 
cup of vinegar and, lastly, two table- 
spoonfuls, of butter; set the cabbage in 
a saucepan over boiling water, pour on 
ihe dressing, stir until hot throughout, 
then serve at once. 

Bombe Glace, Sicilienne 

Scald one pint of milk ; beat the 
yolks of four eggs ; add one cup of 
sugar and beat again, then cook in the 



in salt and crushed ice and let stand 
an hour or longer. 

Peach Sherbet, Royal 

Boil one quart of water and two cups 
of sugar twenty minutes ; add one tea- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine, soft- 
ened in three tablespoonfuls of cold 
water, and when cold, add one cup and 
a half of peach pulp and juice, half a 
cup of orange juice and pulp and the 
juice of one lemon. Use a lemon 
squeezer to extract the lemon and 
orange juice; pare the peaches, remove 
the stones, then press the pulp through 




POTATO AND GREEN CORN CROQUETTES 



hot milk until the mixture coats the 
spoon ; strain, and when cold add one 
pint of cream and set to freeze ; 
when about half frozen add a dozen 
macaroons, dried in the warming oven 
crushed and sifted, and a tablespoon- 
ful of vanilla extract, and finish freez- 
ing. Have ready some strawberry, 
raspberry or peach sherbet. Line a 



a potato ricer ; mix at once with the 
lemon and orange juice to preserve the 
color. For plain peach sherbet, use a 
pint €)f peach juice with the juice of 
one or two lemons. 

, Coupe St. Jacques 

Prepare a lemon sherbet and about a 
pint of fruit (raw or cooked or both), 



1-2(3 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



sugared and flavored with kirsch. Re- 
tain all the fruit juice. Put a table- 
spoonful, each, of fruit and juice into 
a stem-glass or sherbet cup; above dis- 
pose lemon sherbet and serve at once. 
At this season peaches (raw, soft) are 
the choice in fruit; add pineapple 
(fresh or canned), a few cooked straw- 
berries, two oranges and a few^ mara- 
schino cherries cut in halves. 

Lemon Sherbet 

Boil one quart of water and two 
cups of sugar twenty minutes ; add one 
teaspoonful of granulated gelatine, 
softened in cold water, and when cold 
add one cup of lemon juice and freeze. 



Cut into diamonds and rounds or other 
shapes. Spread the tops with con- 
fectioner's frosting; above pipe figures 
of butter frosting; have part of this 
frosting tinted a delicate green, a part 
a delicate pink and leave some plain. 
Flavor the plain with mocha or vanilla, 
the pink with rose, and the green with 
almond and vanilla. Pour confection- 
er's frosting over the butter frosting 
to cover completely the sides of the 
cakes; the frosting should be of such 
consistency that it will cover perfectly 
and yet the colors and lines of the butter 
frosting will be perfectly shown. The 
confectioner's frosting that runs off 
may be lifted to a bowl with a spatula 




APPLE COMPOTE WITH CREAM 



Apple Compote with Cream 

Chop fine half a cup of raisins and 
one-third a cup of nut meats ; add three 
or four tablespoonfuls, each, of sugar 
and water and let cook to a smooth 
paste, adding more water if needed. 
Make a syrup of one cup, each, of sugar 
and water; in this cook about eight 
cored-and-pared apples, turning often 
that the shape may be retained. Set 
them on a baking dish, fill the centers 
with the fruit-and-nut mixture and 
dredge the whole with sugar. Set into 
the oven to melt the sugar and glaze the 
apples. Serve hot or cold with whipped 
cream. 

Glaced Mocha Cakes 

Bake sponge cake mixture in a 
shallow pan; when baked the cake 
should be a scant half-inch thick. 



and used again. The frosting will need 
to be stiff er than one would, at first, 
think — but is easily — by adding either 
water or sugar — made just right. 

Butter Frosting 

Beat three-fourths a cup of butter 
to a cream; gradually beat in two cups 
of sifted confectioner's sugar and flavor- 
ing as desired. 

Confectioner's Frosting 

To one-fourth a cup of cold water, 
add sifted confectioner's sugar to make 
a frosting of the consistency desired. 
Flavor to taste. 

Cup Cake 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream ; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, half a cup of 
milk, one cup and a half of sifted flour. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



1-2- 




CUP CAKE, CHOCOLATE FROSTING 



sifted again with two level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of mace. Lastly, beat in the 
I whites of two eggs, beaten dry. Bake in 
a round pan, nearly forty minutes. The 
pan should be seven inches in diameter. 
(Cover with chocolate frosting; at once 
^ press broken pieces of Enghsh walnut 
meats against the sides of the cake and 
outline the top, at the edge, with a row 
of whole half-meats. 

Chocolate Frosting 

Boil one cup of sugar, one-fourth a 
cup of corn syrup and one-fourth a cup 
of water, in the usual manner, to 238° F. 
Add one ounce of chocolate, let stand to 
melt, then pour in a fine stream on the 
white of one tgg, beaten very light ; re- 
turn to the fire, over boiling water, and 
cook and beat until the mixture thickens 
perceptibly ; remove from the fire and 
beat until thick enough to spread. Fla- 
vor wdth vanilla. 



Ornamental Frosting 

Melt one cup of sugar in half a cup of 
boiling water ; w^ash down the sides of 
the saucepan to remove grains of sugar; 
cover and let boil three minutes to dis- 
solve the grains of the sugar ; uncover 
and let boil, undisturbed, to 238° F. 
Pour in a very fine stream on the w^hite 
of an Qgg, half beaten, beating con- 
stantly meanwhile. Continue the beating 
until the frosting is cool, then beat in a 
scant teaspoonful of lemon juice. Keep 
the frosting covered with a damp cloth 
(this must not touch the frosting) while 
using it. The frosting for the leaves 
and stems, shown in the illustration, was 
tinted green and the fiowers pink wath 
color paste. 

Mother's Lemon Pie 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in 
one cup of boiling water, and pour it 
over one cup of soft, fine bread crumbs. 



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GLACED MOCHA CAKES 



128 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




CAKE COVERED WITH CONFECTIONERS' FROSTING, READY TO DECORATE 



Beat the yolks of two eggs and grad- 
ually beat in one cup of sugar ; add this 
to the bread mixture with half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and the grated rind and 
juice of one lemon (omit the grated rind 
and the pie is less liable to cause diges- 
tive disturbance). Bake in a plate lined 
with pastry ; let cool a little, then spread 
on a meringue made of the whites of 
two eggs, beaten dry and mixed with 
one-fourth a cup of granulated sugar ; 
dredge sugar over the top ; let bake 
about eight minutes in a very moderate 
oven, then increase the heat to color the 
meringue very delicately. 

Gooseberry Jelly 

Heat the berries zvithoiit zuater in a 
double boiler, surrounded with boiling 
water; press to extract the juice or let 
drain in a bag. Allow a cup of sugar to 
each cup of juice. Heat the juice to 
the boiling point, add the sugar, heated 



in the oven, and let cook from five to ten 
minutes. 

Plum-and-Crab Apple Jelly 

Cook the plums with a little water un- 
til tender, then drain in a bag. Add wa- 
ter to the crabapples and cook until ten- 
der throughout, then drain; do not stir 
either fruit while cooking. Take one- 
third plum to two-thirds crabapple juice. 
Take three-fourths a cup of sugar to 
each cup of juice; boil the juice twenty 
minutes, add the sugar, heated in the 
oven, and let boil all over. Sometimes a 
little longer boiling is needed, but not 
often. \\'ild plums give good results. 

Apple Marmalade 

Select apples of tart flavor; pare, quar- 
ter and core the fruit ; weigh the pre- 
pared apples and allow three-fourths a 
pound of sugar to each pound of fruit. 
Add water to the parings and cores, 




CAKE DECORATED WITH ORNAMENTAL FROSTING 

Tubes used for this cake: leaf, star, small cord, shank to which any tube may be 

attached, paper folded for use as tube, point cut like leat-tube. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



cover and let boil abullt' lialf an hour, 
then drain the liquid over the apples; 
let cook until the apples are soft, then 
-train through a fine-meshed colander; 
,i<ld the sugar and let cook until thick 
■ I lid clear. The juice and grated rind of 
n\o or three lemons or oranges, or the 
iddition of two or three quinces, to a 
lialf-peck of apples, may be used to give 
. hanges in flavor, and, in the case of the 
quinces, texture. If scales for weighing 
be not at hand, measure the cooked pulp 
and allow three-quarters a cup of sugar 
to a cup of pulp. 

Muskmelon Sweet Pickle 

Select hard melons sufficiently ripe to 
be well-flavored. Cut in slices and re- 
move the rind and the seed portion. To 
each quart of cold water add one-fourth 
a cup of salt; pour this over the pre- 
pared melon to cover well and let stand 
over night. Drain and set to cook in 
boiling water. Cook only a few pieces 
at a time, and remove each the instant it 
is tender. If cooked too long the shape 
will be spoiled. For seven pounds of 
melon, make a syrup of four pounds of 
sugar, three cups of vinegar, half a cup 
of cloves and a full cup of cinnamon 
bark in small pieces. Pour the syrup 
over the melon and let stand over night, 
then drain off the syrup and pack the 
melon in jars; i-educe the syrup by boil- 
ing, then use to fill the jars. 

Pear Chips 

Pare firm pears, then slice thin in bits. 
To each pound of the prepared pears 
allow three-fourths a pound of sugar, 
half an ounce of green, ginger root, 
scraped or grated, and half a large 
lemon. - Sprinkle the sugar over the 
pears in layers, squeezing over the lemon 
juice. The grated rind of the lemon may 
be added, if desired. Let stand over 
night, then heat slowly to the boiling 
point. Cook until clear and thick like 
marmalade. If preferred, the ginger- 



1'2^' 



th 



root may be crushed, and cooked, wi 
the fruit, in a little bag, which can be 
removed before the fruit is stored in- the 
glasses. 



Raisine 

Take equal weights of grapes and 
pears. \\ ash and stem the grapes, then 
let simmer till soft, in just enough water 
to keep them from burning; press 
through a sieve; add the pears, pared, 
cored and cut in thin slices ; let simmer, 
stirring often until the pear is tender, 
then add three-fourths a cup of sugar 
for each cup of material and let cook as 
for marmalade. 

Peach JNIarmalade 

Pare and stone the peaches, cutting the 
pulp in small pieces. Add a few of the 
kernels from the stones and let cook un- 
til soft ; add an equal weight of sugar 
and stir, occasionally, wdiile cooking, 
about fifteen minutes. Marmalade is 
often made of imperfect shapes of 
halved fruit, left over, when putting up 
canned or preserved peaches. 

Gooseberries, Preserved Whole 

Make a syrup of two pounds (four 
cups) of sugar and two cups of w^ater, 
washing down as in making fondant. 
Prick each gooseberry in three or more 
places (after removing the stem and 
ends of calyx) and add two pounds of 
the berries to the syrup ; let heat to 
160° F; (212° is boiling point). Remove 
from the fire and let stand over night. 
Repeat this heating to 160°, twice. 
The fourth day reheat to just below 
the boiling point and then let stand 
again overnight. Fill jars with the 
cold fruit and syrup; set the jars in a 
steam cooker and let the water around 
them heat gradually to the boiling 
point ; should the berries show signs of 
bursting, remove at once and seal ; 
otherwise do not seal until the a\ ater 
boils. 



Menus for One Week in August 



"Work done because the worker 

Breakfast 

Melons 

Green Corn Oysters 

New Rye Bread and Butter 

Apple Marmalade Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fried Chickens, Green Corn Fritters 

Candied Sweet Potatoes 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 

Romaine, French Dressing 

Peach Sherbet Sponge Drops 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Chicken Salad in Green Peppers 

Bread and Garden Cress Sandwiches 

Sliced Peaches Orange Cookies 

Tea, with Candied Pineapple 



likes to do it is always done ivell." 

Breakfast 

Sliced Peaches 

Fresh Fish Cakes Late Radishes 

Cornmeal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hot Veal Loaf, Tomato Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Fresh Lima Beans 

Corn on the Cob Pickled Beets 

Apple Tapioca Pudding, 

Cream and Sugar 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin 

Lima Bean Salad, 

French Dressing with Chili Sauce 

Chocolate Cake Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Broiled Bacon 

Grilled Sweet Potatoes 

Rice Griddle Cakes New Clover Honey 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken-and-Tomato Soup 
Breaded Veal Cutlets, Brown Sauce 

French Fried Potatoes 

Scalloped Egg Plant Celery 

Peach Pie, Cheese Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Corn au Gratin 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Baked August Sweets 

Drop Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

: Grapes 

I Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Grilled Tomatoes 
Yeast Rolls (reheated) 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Slices of Veal Loaf, reheated 

(no simmering) in Macaroni, Tomatoes, 

Cheese, Green Peppers 

Lettuce or Endive, French Dressing 

Apple Pie Half Cups Coffee « 

Supper 

Hot Green Corn Custard 

Scones 

Berries or Apple Sauce 

Oatmeal Macaroons Tea 



Breakfast 

Cold Pressed Corned Beef, Mustard 

Creamed Potatoes 

Fried Mash 

Melons 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Broiled Fresh Fish, 

Mashed Potato Border 

Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing 

Fried Egg Plant 

Coffee Jelly 

Supper 

Blackberry Shortcake 

(biscuit crust) 

Crackers Milk 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Salt Codfish, Creamed (with beaten Q.gg) 

Toasted Scones Coffee Cocoa 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Dinner 

Slices of Swordfish Baked 

with Bread Dressing, 

Caper or Egg Sauce Mashed Potatoei 

Swiss Chard (as Asparagus or Spinach) 

Stewed or Sliced Tomatoes 

Peach Sherbet Lemon Queens 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Stuffed Cucumbers, Bechamel Sauce 

Sliced Tomatoes Bread and Butter 

Cream Puffs, Sliced Peaches 

Tea 



Breakfast Dinner 

Coffee Cocoa Boned Forequarter of Lamb, Steamed 
New Honey and Browned Mint Sauce 

Cereal Griddle Cakes Mashed Potato-and-Green Corn 

Dry Toast Croquettes 

Broiled or Sliced Tomatoes Cauliflower, Cream Sauce 
Creamed Potatoes New Cucumber Pickles 

Creamed Potatoes Tapioca Custard Pudding, Vanilla Sauce 
Calf's Liver and Bacon Half Cups Coffee 

130 



Supper 

Cream of Corn Soup, 

St. Germain 

Browned Crackers 

Baked Pears 

New Rye Bread and 

Butter 

Tea 



Menus for a Week in September 



"It is just as interesting and as great a 
dinner as it is to make hammered brass or 

Breakfast 

Grapes 

Broiled Ham French Omelet 

French Fried Potatoes 

Waffles Bee's Honey 

j Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Young Chickens, Roasted, 

Bread Dressing 

Potato-and-Green Corn Croquettes 

Creamed Onions Melon Sweet Pickle 

Peach Ice Cream 

Sponge Cake (potato flour) 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

German Coffee Cake (reheated) 

Sliced Peaches, Thin Cream 

Tea or Cocoa 



test of cleverness to "dispatch" a six-cour. 
teach a graded school.'' — Frederick. 

Breakfast 

Poached Eggs on Broiled Tomatoes 

Cream Toast 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Fresh Haddock, 

Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Kohl-Rabi, Buttered 

Pickled Beets 

Baked Cornmeal Suet Pudding, 

Hard Sauce 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese , Pudding 

Baked Sweet Apples, Thin Cream 

Chocolate Cake Tea 



se 






Breakfast 

Sliced Pineapple 

Salt Mackerel Cooked in ]\lilk 

Stewed Potatoes 

German Coffee Cake Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken Gumbo Soup with Rice 

(okra and left over chicken) 

Cauliflower, Cheese Sauce 

Lettuce, Tomatoes and Onions, French 

Dressing 
Queen of Puddings Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed Shelled Beans Bread and Butter 

Apples Baked in Bean Pot 

Cream Cheese 
Hard Gingerbread Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Creamed Haddock au Gratin in Ramekins 

Small Baked Potatoes Sliced Tomatoes 

Philadelphia Butter Beans Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Steak en Casserole 

(carrots, onions, potatoes) 

Tomatoes Stuffed with Celery, 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce 

Toasted Crackers 

Half Cups Coffee Cheese 

Supper 

French Hash 

Lettuce, Sliced Peaches, French Dressing 

French Bread Tea 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

German Apple Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Broiled Steak Stuffed Tomatoes 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Lettuce and Garden Cress 

Apples Cooked with Almonds 

Cookies Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Oyster Stew 

Cabbage Salad 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Stewed Crabapples Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Spanish Omelet Buttered Toast 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fresh Mackerel, Baked 

Buttered Beets 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Baked Apple Dumplings, Hard Sauce 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Mayonnaise of Eggs and Lettuce 

Yeast Biscuit Stewed Plums 

Almond Cake Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Broiled Tripe 

White Hashed Potatoes 

Pickled Beets 

Yeast Biscuit (reheated) 

Apple Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Floating Island 

Apple-and-Raspberry Jelly 

Celery 

Scalloped Tomatoes and Onions 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 
Brown Fricassee of Veal Steak 

131 



Supper 

Succotash, with Salt Pork 

Bread and Butter 

Blackberry Shortcake 

Tea 



Suggestion for Tea-Room Menus 



I 

Tomato Cocktail 

Toast Points or small yeast Rolls 

(rolieated in paper bag) 

II 

Lobster Cocktail 

(at seashore) 

Toasted or Browned Crackers 



III 

Tomatoes Stuffed with 

Mayonnaise of celery, or celery and chicken 

on Lettuce Hearts 

Home-made yeast Rolls, reheated 

IV 

Lobster Salad, or 

Bluefish Salad 

Yeast Rolls 



VIII 

Individual Strawberry, Raspberry, Black- 
berry or Peach Shortcakes, Whipped or 
plain Cream or Mot Marshmallow 
Sauce 
(biscuit crust baked, reheated on call in 
paper cooking bags) 
Pot of Tea 



IX 

Caramel or Maple Nut Sundae 

(vanilla ice cream, caramel or maple S3'rup, 

chopped nuts above) 

Choice of 

Home-made 

Sponge or Almond Cake 



Ice Cream, crushed berry sauce 

Choice of home-made 

Sponge or Chocolate Cake 



Chicken Salad Sandwiches 

Chopped Chicken, olives, pimentos with 

mayonnaise and lettuce 

(materials chopped, but not combined until 

serving) 

Pot of Tea or 

Cup Coffee 

VI 

Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Salad 

Hot Yeast Rolls 

Pot of Tea or 

Cup Coffee 

VII 

Cinnamon Toast 
(fresh bread made with egg and raisins 
sliced, toasted, buttered, dredged gener- 
ously with sugar and cinnamon) 
Pot of Tea 
(choice of sliced lemon, orange, pineapple or 
sugar and cream) or 
Cocoa, Whipped Cream 



XI 

Peach Sherbet, Garnish Whipped Cream 

Lady Fingers 

Salted Nuts 



XII 

Grape Juice Frappe or 

Lemon Sherbet or 

Cup St. Jacques 

(mixture of sugared fruit and juice in glass 

cup lemon sherbet above) 



XIII 

Mexican Rabbit 

Sugared Pineapple 

Half Cups of Coft'ee 



XIV 

Gurcchi ,a la Romaine 

Toasted Crackers 

Lettuce, French Dressing, with Chili Sauce. 




i=i^ 



132 




Our Daily Bread, or 
Preparation in Detail of the Meals of One Day 

Family of Two Adults and Two Children 

By Janet INI. Hill 



SUNDAY ^September) 
Breakfast 

Muskmelons 

Lady Finger Rolls (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roasted Chicken. Giblet Sauce 
Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Green Corn on the Cob 

Sliced Tomatoes. French Dressing 

(with onion juice or sliced onions) 

Rye and Oatmeal Bread 

Peach Sherbet. Royal 

Almond Cake (left over) 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Sweet Corn an Gratin 

Bread and Butter 

Sliced Peaches 

Tea 

THE dinner today is a substantial 
one and, as breakfast on Sunday 
is often an hour later than usual, 
a light breakfast is all that is required. 
Let the niuskmelons stand in the refrig- 
erator overnight; cut in halves and re- 
move seed portions, then return to the 
refrigerator till the moment of serving 
or eating. Do not fill the open centers 
with bits of ice, as the ice seems to draw 
•out the flavor. Pass with them a bowl 
of sugar, a shaker filled with paprika, 
and one filled with cinnamon, or, sugar 
■ and cinnamon mixed. 

The Lady Finger Rolls, reheated in a 



paper bag of the sort used for cooking 
purposes, are left over from Saturday. 
More variety in the food can be secured 
by shaping and finishing one-half the 
mixture as Philadelphia Butter Buns ; 
directions for doing this will be found 
on page 65 of the preceding magazine. 

To lessen the work on Sunday, clean 
the chicken, truss and set aside on 
Saturday. If bread dressing is to be 
used, this should not be put in place on 
Saturday, as it is liable to sour. A recipe 
will be found among the Seasonable 
Recipes for this month. Use no liquid 
other than the melted butter ; fat alone 
gives a light dressing, the addition of 
water, tgg or milk, a solid and rather 
soggy dressing. Do not cook the chick 
en at too high a temperature ; baste with 
clear fat and keep the heat at such a 
temperature that the fat in the pan be 
not overheated ; baste often and dredge 
with flour after each basting. Do not 
use butter for basting; nothing is more 
objectionable for this purpose. The 
chicken will cook in about one hour and 
a half ; allow ten minutes extra, then 
when the chicken is cooked, set it into 
the warming oven, drain off the fat in 
the pan, and add to the pan the liquid 
from the giblets, preferably cooked on 
Saturday, and let cook five or six min- 



133 



134 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Utes to dissolve the glaze in the pan. 
Heat three tablespoonfuls of the fat; in 
it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour, 
then add a cup and a half of the liquid 
from the pan and stir until boiling ; finish 
with the chopped giblets. 

The recipe for the sherbet will be 
found among the Seasonable Recipes ; 
the syrup may be boiled on Saturday ; 
after the peaches are pared and stoned, 
the potato ricer will reduce them quickly 
to a Hquid state. After the mixture is 
frozen, repack without much additional 
salt. If the ice is to stand sometime, it 
may be removed to a mold and packed in 
a fireless cooker ; use little or no salt in 
the cooker, but be sure that the sherbet 
is well frozen before packing. 

If the syrup was not prepared on Sat- 
urday, be sure and wait until it is cold 
before adding the fruit juice. Heating 
detracts from the flavor of fruit juice, 
and this is peculiarly true of peach flavor. 
Sherbets are often made by simply freez- 
ing the fruit juice, sugar and water 
mixed together, but a smoother product, 
and one that will remain firmer after 
freezing, is secured when syrup is used. 

Boiled corn is eaten in perfection only 
when taken from the garden to the 
saucepan of boiling water; unless this 
procedure be possible, cook the corn in 
some other fashion. Golden Bantam 
corn is a revelation in corn sweetness 
and flavor. Have the water boiling; lay 
in the corn and cook from ten to twenty 
minutes, according to your own ideas. 
Add salt when nearly cooked. Send to 
the table, lying on a napkin, the ends of 
which are brought up over the corn. 
Salt, black pepper and the best butter 
are the accompaniments. 

Prepare the corn for supper while get- 
ting dinner, then at supper time reheat 
in a hot oven. Recipes abound for corn 
soups, custards, rabbits and puddings ; 
the. recipe that follows, though very sim- 



ple, is perhaps less common. To secure 
the corn pulp needed for the dish, score 
the rows of kernels lengthwise of the 
cob, then with the back of the knife 
press out the pulp and leave the hull on 
the cob. 

Recipe for Creamed Corn au 
Gratin 

Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls, 
each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and black 
pepper, or a slice of green or red pep- 
per, chopped fine, and three-fourths a 
cup of milk; when boiling add one cup 
and a half of corn pulp, stir and cook 
until again boiling throughout; turn in- 
to a shallow baking dish suitable for the 
table, well-buttered, and spread over the 
top one-third a cup of fine cracker 
crumbs, mixed with two or three table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter. 

Scrub the sweet potatoes thoroughly; 
set to cook in salted, boiling water, and 
when nearly tender, drain, peel and cut 
in lengthwise slices ; set these in an 
earthen baking dish, in layers, with maple 
or brown sugar or maple syrup, and bits 
of butter between ; let cook half an hour 
or longer. 

Dress the salad at the table. Have 
ready in a bowl, lined with heart-leaves 
of lettuce, four or five slices of peeled- 
and-chilled tomato and three or four 
thin slices of mild onion. Mix a gen- 
erous fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper, in the salad spoon, with a 
tablespoonful of oil; pour this over the 
tomatoes, principally ; pour on three more 
tablespoonfuls of oil; then with spoon 
and fork turn the vegetables over and 
over, pressing upon the slices of onion to 
release the juice; sprinkle over two ta- 
blespoonfuls of vinegar and again turn 
the vegetables over and over and press 
upon the onion. Serve onion with the 
lettuce and tomato to those who desire it. 



■»-<2r>2^^ 



Each According to His Like 

Bv Stella Burke ]Mav 



FLORIDA HOUSEWIFE'S CALENDAR 

January Grapefruit, Oranges, Kumquats" 

February Mulberries 

March Loquats 

April Pineapples, Surinam Cherries 

May Peaches, Watermelons 

June. .Blackberries, Huckleberries, Blueberries, 
Plums 

July Scuppernog Grapes 

August Guavas, Figs, Pomegranates 

September Persimmons, Mangoes, Dates, 

Bananas 

October Avocado Pears 

November. .Jamaica Sorrel (Florida's Cran- 
berry 
December Strawberries 



HOW many housewives in Amer- 
ica can boast of supplying their 
tables with a different variety 
of fresh, home-grown fruit for every 
month in the year? 

This is what the Florida housekeeper 
enjoys, with as many variations in serv- 
ing as she has fruits. 

From New Year's day, which finds an 
abundance of the orthodox citrus fruits, 
— grapefruit, oranges, tangerines, kum- 
quats, limes and lemons, — on throughout 
the year until the big, luscious Florida 
strawberry is ripe for the Christmas 
dinner, there is a never-ending stream of 
tropical and semi-tropical fruits ripening 
in an order of sequence which makes 
catering a joy and a succession of sur- 
prises. Aloreover, it is a demonstrated 
fact that each month has a fruit all its 
own, and some months have a lavish 
variety. 

Many of these, such as loquats, kum- 
quats, Surinam cherries, Avocado pears, 
mangoes, Scuppernong grapes, guavas, 
etc., are unknown to "the majority of 
housewives north of the Ohio river, but 
are staple products on the Florida 
market. 



The length of the Florida peninsula, 
some 660 odd miles, and the considerable 
variation in altitude of the different sec- 
tions of the state so affect the ripening 
period of the divers localities as to make 
generahzation impossible, but the fruit 
calendar here given is the one followed 
by residents in the highland lake region 
of Florida, the name given to that sec- 
tion of the state known as the "back- 
bone" or ridge of the peninsula, a strip 
of land running north and south, with a 
general elevation of about 200 feet, and 
lying midway between the Atlantic 
Ocean and the Gulf, and equi-distant 
from the Georgia border and the toe of 
the Florida boot. 

It has been said, and gustatorially sub- 
stantiated by those who spend the entire 
twelve months of the year in this section, 
that this ^'highland lake region" produces 
practically every variety of fruit known 
to the tropics. On the crest of this ridge, 
and on the Jacksonville-to-Tampa route 
of the Atlantic Coast Line, nestles a lit- 
tle village called Auburndale, which we 
will choose for the setting of this horti- 
cultural table, because the complete fruit 
calendar is observed here. 

Being largely Northern in its popula- 
tion, the "Yankee" farmers are full of 
enthusiasrri and the joy of experiment- 
ing, and the combination of Northern 
experiment with the more conservative 
Southern experience, gathered from the 
"crackers," as the native farmers are 
called, produces interesting results, and 
it is no unusual sight to find one of these 
Yankee tenderfeet demonstrating on a 
small acreage the fruit-for-every-month 
theory. 

"But T thought Florida people lived 
out of cans in the summer time", said a 
recent Northern invader. To whom the 
Southern farmer replied: 'They used to 
when the alligators carried nigger babies 



135 



136 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



around in their mouths." 

And it is true that not even on the 
menus of the most exchisive New York 
cafes can be found a greater variety of 
fruits throughout the year than is en- 
joyed by the poorest "cracker" in Polk 
county. 

Because of the fact that there are 
10,000 acres of grapefruit and orange 
groves in the section surrounding 
Auburndale, which takes in the Winter 
Haven and Florence Villa district, and 
because Florida is synonymous with 
grapefruit and oranges, we will start the 
January bill of fare with grapefruit and 
close it with orange, sprinkling in a gen- 
erous quantity of kumquats for good 
measure. This latter is a tiny fruit about 
the size of the small yellow tomato used 
in the North for making tomato preserve. 
It has the appearance of a diminutive,, 
elongated orange, but reverses the char- 
acteristics of the orange in that it has a 
sweet skin and bitter pulp. If you tire 
of kumquats and "round" oranges, you 
may be served with tangerines or "kid- 
glove oranges", so-called from the thin, 
easily peeled skin. 

Orange marmalade for breakfast and 
preserved kumquat for supper furnish a 
little added spice to Florida living, for 
nowhere in the world, not even in 
"Merrie Englande" where the orange 
marmalade is queen, nor in Japan where 
the preserved kumquat or "Kin Kan" is 
empress, have these two dishes reached 
the state of perfection attained through 
the ingenuity of the Florida cook. As 
the kumquat has taken to traveling north- 
ward more generally, the following 
recipe, given to me by a native Florida 
cook, may be interesting: 

Preserved Kumquat 

Wash a quart box of fruit and make 
.a small slit in the ends of each kumquat, 
and soak in cold water over night. This 
slit lets the water through and softens 
the otherwise tough skin. In the morn- 
ing pour off the water. Cover with fresh 
cold water and bring to boiling point, 



gradually adding sugar to make a thick 
syrup. Boil until syrup is clear. This 
preserve may be served at once or kept 
for future use in sealed jars. 

Also for breakfast, the following : 

Orange Marmalade 

Slice a dozen oranges and six lemons, 
crosswise, with a sharp knife, as thin as 
possible. Then quarter slices and remove 
all seeds. Cover with cold water and 
let stand 24 hours. Boil two hours, add 
same weight of sugar and boil one hour 
longer. 

Before one has tired of the various 
citrus fruits, with the advent of Feb- 
ruary comes the mulberry, a little larger 
and sweeter than the mulberry of the 
North. These berries are delicious, 
served either cooked or uncooked, if a 
little lime or lemon juice is added. If 
cooked alone the fruit is too sweet, but 
makes delicious pies by adding lime 
juice, and a very appetizing uncooked 
dessert, if a little lemon juice is squeezed 
over the berries after sugar is added. 

March brings the loquat, or Japanese 
plum, which resembles a yellow plum in 
appearance, but has a most delicate flavor 
unlike any other fruit, and unlike most 
tropical fruits, which demand an ac- 
quired taste, wins its friends on first ac- 
quaintance. The loquat tree is ever- 
green, with handsome rough leaves, and 
is worthy of being grown purely as an 
ornamental. 

While the pineapple bears almost any 
time throughout the year, the Smooth 
Cayenne, so-called from the absence of 
spines on the leaves, is regarded as the 
April fruit in the highland lake section 
of the state, and while this fruit is not 
grown commercially in Polk County to 
compete with the Fort Pierce region on 
the East Coast or the Punta Gorda sec- 
tion on the West Coast, it is grown 
largely for home consumption. April 
also brings a substitute for the red 
cherry, in the shape of the Surinam 
cherry, which can be used in all the ways 



EACH ACCORDING TO HIS LIKE 



137 



a Northern cook uses the common red 
or the black cherry. This fruit is about 
the size and color of its Northern sister, 
but grows on a shrub and is distinctive 
in bearing two enormous crops yearly. 
Like the Florida orange it never rests, 
for no sooner is the April fruit well 
colored than the tree blossoms for the 
new crop. 

While the pineapple is still in market, 
Mother Nature, who knows how to 
tickle the palate, gives us, with the ad- 
vent of May, the pretty little Florida 
peach, which, while more diminutive than 
her Georgia or Michigan relation, is nev- 
ertheless a thing of beauty and a joy for 
the month of May and the greater part 
of June. The Florida peach has one 
white and one pink cheek and the dain- 
tiest flesh-colored meat. If you have 
never tasted ambrosia, slice pineapples 
and peaches together, and you will par- 
take of the most delicious combination of 
fruits imaginable. That feature of sliced 
peaches so disheartening to cooks in gen- 
eral, that the fruit turns dark if allowed 
to stand, is in some manner offset by the 
acid in the pineapple, and these fruits 
can be sliced together, sprinkled with 
sugar and allowed to stand on ice a half 
day, and they come to the dinner or sup- 
per table the most tempting pink and 
yellow dessert. 

Now, when you say "South," you 
think "watermelon," of course, so when 
considering Florida fruits let us not over- 
look this staple, for if you were to visit 
the hill section of Polk county during 
May you would find the land fairly car- 
peted with watermelons, wdiich are 
shipped north in carload lots during May 
and June. 

June is profligate. From the crest of 
the ridge down into the flatwoods coun- 
try, blackberries, huckleberries and blue- 
berries are found growing along the 
highways in reckless abundance during 
this month, and pie is the order of the 
day. Of the cultivated fruits, the plum 
is harbinger of June. The Kelsey plum, 
a variety similar in color, and a little 



larger and sweeter than the green gage, 
is the one best known in this section. 
Many orchardists believe that the plum 
produces better through cross-pollenation 
and, therefore, intersperse their culti- 
vated trees with wild plums. 

When the daily afternoon shower 
comes with unceasing regularity and the 
Scuppernong arbors creak with their bur- 
den of darkening grapes, the Florida 
housewife's calendar says it is July. This 
grape grows singly or in small clusters of 
two or three, not in bunches as does the 
Concord grape, and when thoroughly ripe 
resembles a big, green cherry with a 
slightly reddish tinge. The skin is 
tougher than the Concord or Tokay, but 
the meat is sweet and tender, with just 
enough acid to give it tang, and is a 
most palatable dessert either fresh or in 
sauce. But it is when converted into 
wine that the Scuppernong comes into its 
own. This wine is a clear, orange-red, 
sweet wine, flavored slightly like Mus- 
catel, of beautiful color and delicate 
flavor, and though Polk County is "dry," 
Scuppernong wine occupies a prominent 
place on its table. 

In August the guava makes its appear- 
ance. This is known as the Florida apple, 
as it is indigenous to the soil here and 
all through the pine forests and along 
the shores of the Auburndale lakes the 
guava is found growing wild. This is 
a strictly tropical fruit, and is never 
found growing wild above the frost line. 
The guava is like olives or roquefort 
cheese or cold baths. You have to learn 
to like it. If the guava had been the 
apple of Eden, Adam would not have 
been tempted, for there is on record no 
woman and but one man who liked his 
first guava. It is about the size and 
shape of a lemon, with a tender, creamy 
skin and pink meat. The distinctive 
feature of the guava is its odor. This 
is indescribable, and it is a matter of 
record that a carload of perfectly good 
guavas consigned to Cincinnati about a 
year ago was condemned and buried by 
order of the Board of Health, whose 



138 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



members had no speaking acquaintance 
with the Florida "apple." But what- 
ever objection is made to the fresh 
guava, there is none to the jelly into 
which this fruit is converted, and the 
Florida guava jelly is preferred by many 
to the expensive delicacy imported from 
Cuba and served at many high-priced 
Northern hotels. While the guava is 
practically ever-bearing, it produces its 
biggest crop in August, and it is during 
this month that the fruit is eagerly 
sought by the thrifty housewife who, 
during that month, puts up her annual 
supply of jelly. 

Figs and pomegranates are also 
August fruits, and, while not extensively 
grown, are nevertheless common in this 
section of the state. 

A strictly tropical month is October, 
pouring from her plenteous lap the fruits 
that made Pomona famous as goddess 
of the orchard. Dates, bananas, man- 
goes and the luscious Japanese persim- 
mon all are ripened during this which is 
admittedly Florida's hottest month. The 
Florida date, like the Florida fig, is 
smaller than the imported fruit, but 
equally sweet and palatable. The favor- 
ite banana in this section is the little 
Lady Finger, one of the daintiest of 
table fruits, while the ''common or gar- 
den" banana abounds in profusion, and 
not only because of its delectable fruit, 
but because of the beauty of its foHage 
is this lazy-leafed ornamental found in 
almost every dooryard on the peninsula. 

The physician who first made the rule : 
''Never bathe immediately after eating" 
had never eaten a mango. When you 
eat a mango you take two baths ; one in 
the mango and the other immediately 
afterward. There is no halfway opinion 
in regard to this fruit; you either love 
it or you loathe it. One mango will fur- 
nish meat and drink for a whole meal, 
but if you detect a turpentine flavor in it, 
vou would rather go hungry than eat it. 
If you do not notice the turpentine taste, 
you rave over the fruit. There is no 
stopover, you either take a through 



ticket or none. 

But the persimmon — the Japanese per- 
simmon — ah! that's the fruit they ate 
on high Olympus. Take a perfectly ripe 
Japanese persimmon, slice it and serve '*■ 
either with sugar and cream or with lime 
juice squeezed over it, and you have a 
dish that makes the Yankee leave home. 
A ripe Japanese persimmon resembles a 
ripe tomato in appearance, slightly elon- 
gated and pointed at the bud end. The 
seeds are edible and few in number, and 
the meat is of an exquisite flavor. 

But it is in October that the top-liner 
in fruits comes on the program — the 
Avocado or "alligator" pear. What the 
terrapin is to the animal kingdom and 
the truffle, to the vegetable, the Avo- 
cado pear is in the realm of horticulture. 
Order it on Broadway, and you will pay 
probably two dollars for an "alligator"- 
pear salad. Even on the local market 
they command as high as fifty cents 
apiece. The Avocado is strictly a salad 
pear, served with various dressings, and 
is claimed by orchardists to be the most 
valuable fruit on the American market. 
Whether it is called "alligator" because 
of its Florida birth, or because of its 
leathery skin, is a mystery not yet dis- 
closed. 

When the turkey's gobble heralds the 
approach of Thanksgiving, and the first 
of the Northern tourists and robin red- 
breasts arrive for the winter season in 
Florida, a small red berry is seen to 
ripen on a little garden shrub. It is then 
that the Southern housewife instructs 
her Flossie May or Daisy Belle or Wil- 
helmina Jane (who hold the positions 
once occupied by the Aunt Janes, Aunt 
Dinahs and Aunt Marthas of other 
days) to prepare the sorrel for the tur- 
key dinner. This Jamaica sorrel is the 
Florida cranberry, and the work of pre- 
paration consists of separating the red, 
fleshy calyx from the seed pod, and 
cooking the calyx after discarding the 
pod. It is cooked and sugar added in 
the same way the Northern cook pre- 
pares her cranberry sauce, and the result 






ERRANDS 



139 



is a dish that even an expert cannot 
identify from the cranberry combination 
that flanks the *'up North" Thanksgiving 
turkey. There is a tradition among the 
native cooks that the Jamaica sorrel 
never ripens at any time but Thanksgiv- 
ing, and that no matter what time of year 
the seed is planted and the little shrub 
transplanted from the seedbed, it never 
fails to be ready for the Thanksgiving 
table. 

About this time the luscious Florida 
strawberry begins to color, and by Christ- 
mas time the odor of this Httle fruit 
greets the olfactory nerves of the in- 
coming tourist, as thousands of quarts 
of berries are loaded in refrigerators and 
shipped to Northern markets. When it 
is realized that, from December to 
March, a half million quarts of straw- 
berries are shipped annually from the 
Lakeland platform ten miles west of 
Auburndale, it will be seen how plentiful 
this popular fruit is at the Christmas 
season, and the further fact that Polk 
county berries have commanded as high 
as a dollar and a quarter per quart, on 
the New York holiday market, will ex- 
plain why December is symbolized by a 
strawberry on the Florida calendar. 

And now the pomological circle com- 
pletes itself by swinging again into the 



citrus fruit zone, which gives the caterer 
opportunity to serve one more fruit com- 
bination, and that is the combination of 
grapefruit and strawberries. Not sim- 
ply serving a strawberry in the center of 
a grapefruit, but peeling the fruit as you 
would an apple, leaving the cells exposed, 
then dexterously slipping a knife be- 
tween the sections and removing each 
segment whole, minus fiber and seeds. 
Then add a box of selected and washed 
strawberries, sprinkling generously with 
sugar and allowing the fruit to stand a 
short time before serving so that the 
strawberry juice may color the grape- 
fruit-pulp. Use about three grapefruits 
to a box of strawberries and serve either 
as a fruit cocktail before the meal or as 
a dessert. 

In order to be fair to Florida fruits, 
it should be known that we of this por- 
tion of Florida have oranges on our 
tables from the time the Parson Brown 
ripens in October until the last Tardiff is 
taken from the tree in June ; that grape- 
fruit is in prime condition for eating, 
without the addition of sugar, from De- 
cember 1-st until July, and that limes, 
lemons and citrons ''bear with us" con- 
stantly. Truly, the Florida housewife 
is not lacking for fresh fruit for her 
table. 



Errands 



. \\ hen Mother says, "Come Lizbeth Jane, 

Please take this note to Mrs. Brown," 
My feet just poke along the lane, 

And, oh, it seems so far to town I 
'Cause Mrs. Brown is sure to say, 

"Good gracious child, what muddy feet ! 
It isn't wet at all today, 

And you should learn to be more neat." 
She puts me in the stiffest chair, ! 

I sit as still as any mouse, — 
But, oh, I'm lonesome while I'm llit- ic ; 

It isn't like a playtime house. 



But when my mother says to me, 

"Please take this note to Mrs. White," 
I'm just as tickled as can be, 

x\nd hurry off with all my might, — 
Because she'll say, "Why bless my heart. 

It's Lizbeth Jane! How are you dear? 
How would you like a jelly tart? 

I keep them in the cupboard here. 
Just help yourself. ni> dear; That's right! 

Now can't you stay and play a while?" 
I like to visit Mrs. White, 

Because her house is like a smile! 

Helen Cowles LeCron 



Furnishing a Home 

By Salena Sheets Martin 



W 



E will suppose it is a Ihit or 
an apartment to be furnished 
— a moderate-sized flat of five 
or six rooms — by \)C(j\)\q: of moderate 
means and a moderate income. But 
"moderate" is so vai;ue that we will 
specify as to the income and say it is 
fifteen hundred a year, with something 
to be laid up. 

This is not a case of a bride and 
groom just going to housekeeping, but 
any family of some education and some 
culture, who are going to move into 
such a flat as the above mentioned. 
They have probably worn off the new 
of more thaji one set of furniture and 
when the\' move this time — as people 
in cities especially have a habit of 
moving occasionally — they will prob- 
ably sell off the oldest pieces to the 
second-hand furniture dealer and re- 
place them with new ones, using the 
left overs where they best fit in. 

First of all, the Hat or apartment 
itself will largely determine to the dis- 
criminating housewife how it would 
best be furnished. This it does by its 
arrangement of rooms, its woodwork, 
floors, windows, windowseats, fire- 
place, console, built-in sideboard, china 
closet and like features. 

Hardwood polished floors make the 
.question of rugs a fairly easy one. A 
large rug in the center of the living 
room, parlor, drawing room, or what- 
ever it may be called, is usually satis- 
factory as it saves the floor and is pleas- 
ing to look at and to walk on. The kind 
of rug may be determined by price, 
amount of wear and other considera- 
tions. If the moderate plan is adhered 
to, probably a good Wilton will be cho- 
sen, of either a solid color or varied ac- 
cording to the color scheme of the room, 
for there must be a color scheme at the 
start, else all will be haphazard at the 
end. 



When the general .tone of the room is 
decided on, then the walls are the first 
thought and all the furnishings should 
fit into this color scheme — rug, uphol- 
stered furniture — if in fabrics — curtains, 
if other than white, portieres, and so on, 
to the last smallest feature. In this the 
idea is to avoid violent contrasts that 
glare at and startle one on entering a 
room, just as inharmonious combinations 
of color in dress shock the beholder pos- 
sessing taste. 

The pictures on the walls of the par- 
lor should be of broad interest or chosen 
for their special beauty or appeal of some 
sort, such as landscapes or marine views. 
Pictures of the family do not appeal to 
outsiders generally ; so should be placed 
on more intimate walls — the bedrooms. 

The pieces of furniture necessary in 
the parlor or living room are few. A 
Davenport, perhaps, a few reception 
chairs, a rocker or two, a piano, piano- 
bench and music cabinet, and if the par- 
lor nuist serve as library, also, it must 
contain the bookcases and a library table 
with a good reading lamp. Surely this is 
enough in one room and the less bric-a- 
brac the better, nothing of this sort find- 
ing place unless it has a definite use or 
exceptional beauty. 

The dining room calls for a treatment 
and consideration all its own. W^e hope 
it has the beamed ceiling with a beautiful 
dome or light arrangement over the table, 
and that there is no plate rack, where 
things of no special beauty are put to 

ing for frequent 
too, we want in 
solid color with top border of foliage, 
forest or landscape of some sort. Maho- 
gany furniture goes well with dull blue, 
but since this dining room is to be fur- 
nished in a moderate way, the furniture 
will probably be of quarter-sawed oak 
and the built-in sideboard and woodwork 
are of the same material. 



catch and hold dust, ca 
cleaning. These walls, 



140 



FURNISHING A HOME 



141 



Again the large rug is chosen and the 
dining table stands in its center with the 
leather-bottomed chairs arranged orderly 
about the room. A 'low-boy' stands 
against one wall with the silver and glass 
needed at each meal on it, while all other 
dishes and glassw^are are arranged neatly 
in the china closet or built-in side1)oard. 
When not in use the table is cleared of 
the linen and silence cloth and a ]^retty 
center-piece is placed on it- to hold the 
fern dish. 

As to dining-room curtains there is 
great scope, for many varieties offer, but 
the essential thing is that they be just 
window-sill length of a material that can 
be kept fresh. They look better hanging 
straight and pushed well to the side 
rather than draped. 

For the bedrooms it is difficult to give 
more than a very general plan, for here 
is where each person should have the 
opportunity to express his or her individ- 
uality. However, a few general arrange- 
ments are necessary to the comfort and 
sanitation of all sleeping rooms. In flats, 
particularly, the sleeping rooms are apt to 
be rather small and offer little choice as 
to the arrangement of the furniture. To 
avoid the draft from the one window, the 
bed must stand there, the bureau here, 
the dressing table and chair in whatever 
place is left, and so there we are. 

But even so, we can have the walls in a 
delicate color, either tinted or papered 
and never, never fill them with dust- 
catching calendars and useless bric-a- 
brac. "But," you say, ''where are we to 
put these things, since they can't be in the 
parlor or dining room?" Don't have 
them and then you wont have to find 
places to put them ; or if you have them 
give them away, or put them in the dis- 
card. Have washable curtains at the 
windows and such rugs on the floor as 
will bear the sunlight, for it should come 
in, in floods, with the shade run to the top 
much of each day. By the arangement 
of one's "belongments" the individual 
touch comes, and so each has his room 
to his liking. 



This article has lengthened until little 
space is left in which to s])eak of hall, 
kitchen an«d bathroom. It is not to be 
taken that the kitchen is regarded by the 
waiter as unimportant — quite the reverse 
— for I believe that out of it come the 
"issues of life" in a much larger way 
than has lieen dreamed of in the past. 
To a great extent, 'as a man eateth so is 
he.' 

First of all. the kitchen must be clean 
and sanitar}-. To lliis end it must have 
in it just the things necessary for the 
work needed and no more. These are a 
good range, gas or coal, with ample facil- 
ities in. the kitchen for plenty of hot 
water, a work table, refrigerator, a sink 
and perhaps a kitchen cabinet. I prefer 
a well-arranged, well-lighted pantry. The 
kitchen, above all rooms, should be well 
lighted and ventilated for the escape of 
steam and odors. A good, even, hard- 
wood floor is hard to improve on, though 
some use the linoleum even over this. A 
painted wall is best for the kitchen, and 
thi> should be made fresh each year. 

The bath-room can be made a model 
for sanitation and cleanliness. Tiled walls 
and floor are easy to clean, while a por- 
celain tub and bowl, likewise, are easily 
cleaned. The just pride of a particular 
housewife shows itself in all bath-room 
accessories, together with plenty of tow- 
els and wash clothes. If the bath-room 
contains the shower bath too, all the bet- 
ter, but this can scarcely be expected in 
the average flat. 

The hall, which is the first place to be 
entered, comes in for consideration last, 
as it happens. It does not need a great 
deal of furnishing. A runner of good 
carpet, body 1 Brussels, Wilton, or any 
other preferred, the length of the hall, 
and the floor question is settled. The hall 
rack and hall seat arc often built in 
where sj^ace ]:)ermits. In addition a small 
table and chair may prove needful. 

Always it must be borne in mind that 
circumstances alter cases, and that every 
flat or house must have its individual 
treatment. 



New Stews for the Fireless Cooker 



J^y Josephine Page \V^right 



EXTREMELY hot weather always 
brings its perplexities to the 
housewife who is conscientious 
about planning wisely the meals for each 
day. To keep the house or, at least, the 
kitchen like a furnace all day, while an 
exhausted cook bakes and brews, is of 
course out of the question. But neither 
is it desirable to yield to the temptation 
to serve cold meals hap-hazard from 
ice-box and store-room to table. As a 
matter of fact warm and carefully 
cooked food is more important during 
the periods of trying heat than at some 
other seasons of the year. 

Many have solved the problem by hav- 
ing the cooking for the entire day done 
early in the morning. Dinner is pre- 
pared at breakfast time and a cold lunch- 
eon served in the middle of the day. 
This is an excellent plan for those wdio 
do not object to having their food re- 
heated. For those who do there is al- 
ways the fireless cooker. 

A good stew, properly cooked and 
daintily served, is a dinner in itself and, 
with a light dessert added, should sat- 
isfy all demands in hot weather. It may 
be prepared before the heat of the day, 
stored in the fireless cooker, and brought 
steaming to the table at the evening 
dinner hour. We may safely borrov/ 
from the peasantry of other countries 
the recipes of food which they prepared 
in their "hay-boxes" years before we 
had ever heard of a fireless cooker. 



Irish Stew 



2 lbs. mutton 
1 carrot 
1 onion 
1 stick celery 



1 turnip 

2 cups sliced pota- 
toes (raw) 

Salt and pepper 



Cut mutton into small cubes and saute 
in a frying pan. Slice carrot, onion, 
celery and turnip. Put meat, vegetables 
and seasoning into kettle and fill with 



water. Boil for twenty minutes and 
remove at once to cooker. At dinner- 
time add thickening and serve. 

Chili Con Carne 



2 lbs. beef 
2 tablespoonfuls suet 
1 tablespoonful chili 
powder 



2 tomatoes 
Salt and garlic 
1 pint Mexican bayo 
beans 



Cut the beef into inch cubes. Chop 
suet and toss into frying pan. Season 
the beef and brown it in the suet. Re- 
move it to kettle and add water, toma- 
toes and chili powder. Boil for thirty 
minutes and cook all day in the cooker. 
Serve wnth beans. Soak the beans over 
night. Put them into the kettle in the 
morning and boil for twenty minutes 
before placing in the cooker. The 
double compartment kettle should be 
used in preparing the chili con carne. 
Too much water should be avoided in 
the stew, and the beans are more tempt- 
ing if cooked by themselves. 

The recipe given is the dish as the 
Mexican makes and enjoys it. There 
are, however, many variations. Rice 
may be substituted for the beans. When 
this is done, the single compartment ket- 
tle may be used and the rice cooked 
with the meat. Macaroni is' sometimes 
used by those who prefer it to the 
frijoles. 

Okra Stew 

1 lb. beef | 2 large tomatoes 

1 onion I 1 quart tender okra 

1 sweet pepper j 1 cup rice 

i Butter and salt 

Put butter into the kettle and in it 
fry beef and onions, cut into small pieces. 
Cut up the okra very fine and add to 
the meat with the pepper and tomatoes. 
Fill the kettle with water and bring to 
a boil. Add the cup of rice and boil 
fifteen minutes before removing to 
cooker. 



142 



NKVV STFAVS FOR THE FIRELESS COOKER 



U:^ 



English Boiled Dinner 



3 lbs lean beef 
1 small head cauli- 
flower 



6 large potatoes 
2 carrots 
2 turnips 



The boiled dinner is not new, but is 
growing in favor as it appears or rather 
re-appears in new form. The largest 
cooker-kettle must be used for this dish 
and much depends upon how it is put 
together and served. Choose lean solid 
meat and, after washing it carefully, put 
it into the kettle with a little suet and 
brown. Tie the cauliflower in a thin 
white cloth, to preserve its shape and 
color. Wash and peel the vegetables, 
add water to the meat and let it boil 
twenty minutes before the vegetables 
are added. Then boil ten minutes 
longer and remove to cooker. At din- 
ner-time serve meat on a large platter 
garnished with fresh parsley. The car- 
rots, onions and turnips may be arranged 
on the same platter and the gravy, 
thickened, poured around them. The 
potatoes and cauliflower may be served 
in vegetable dishes. In this way the 
"messy" appearance of the boiled dinner, 
which has done much to bring it into 
disfavor, may be avoided. If the cooker- 
vessel is large enough, all the vegetables 
may be cooked whole. 

Vegetarian Dinner 

2 tablespoonfuls I 2 cups turnip cubes 

butter j (raw) 

2 cups potato cubes | Ih cups hot water 

(raw) j 2 cups sweet corn 

1 onion I Pepper and salt 

Saute potato and turnip in butter. 

Add the onion (chopped fine), water, 

corn and seasoning. Bring to a boil 

and remove to cooker. 

Chicken with Peppers 

2 tomatoes 



i cup rice 

Salt and bay leaf 



1 chicken 
i cup butter 

1 onion 

2 sweet peppers 

Cut the chicken as you would to fry 
it. Brown it in the butter. Add the 
onion, chopped fine, the peppers and to- 
matoes. Put into the kettle and cover 
with water. Boil for ten mintues and 



add the rice. Boil ten minutes longer, 
add the seasoning and remove to the 
cooker. Whole potatoes, washed and 
pared, may be added if desired. 

An excellent dinner may be teadc 
from a bone-end of a ham and split 
peas. 

Ham and Peas 

1 pint split peas | 1 bone-end of a ham 
6 small new potatoes I Paprika 

Clean peas, cover with water and al- 
low to soak over night. In the morning 
drain and cover with fresh water. 
W^ash and trim the meat. Wash and 
peel the potatoes. Put ham, peas and 
water into the kettle and boil for twenty 
minutes. Add potatoes and cook for 
ten minutes before removing to cooker. 

Sheep's Heart Stew 

2 sheep's hearts 2 cups sliced potatoes 
2 slices bacon 1 cup sliced carrot 

1 onion , Pepper and salt 

Split and wash the hearts. Chop the 
onion and cook it with the bacon for ten 
minutes. Brown the hearts in the bacon 
fat. Remove to the kettle, cover with 
water and add vegetables and seasoning. 
Boil very gently for fifteen minutes and 
remove to cooker. Thicken the gravy 
with flour before serving. 

Fish Chowder 



2 lbs. fish 
2 ounces fat pork 
f cup thick cream 
1 pint water 



1 small onion 
1 cup potato cubes 
1 tablespoonful flour 
Salt and pepper 



Clean and skin the fish. Tear the 
flesh from the bones and cut it into small 
pieces. Pour the water over the fish 
bones and cook for ten minutes. Put 
the pork into a frying pan and cook out 
the fat. Cut the cooked pork into small 
pieces and put into the kettle. Brown 
the minced onions in the pork fat. 
Strain the boiling water from the fish 
bones and pour it into the frying pan. 
Stir until the sediment is mixed with 
the water, then pour it into the kettle. 
Add the fish and potato to the mixture 
in the kettle and bring to a boil. Boil 
for fifteen minutes and remove to the 
cooker. Add the cream (heated). 



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Contributions to this department will be gladly received, 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Accepted items will be 



A Cuban Dessert 

IF you want something out of the or- 
dinary in the way of a dessert, try 
leche condensada (condensed milk). 

Take any brand of condensed milk 
(not evaporated) and place the cans un- 
opened in a kettle of boiling water. Boil 
seven hours continuously, turning the 
cans over once at least during that time. 
As this will keep indefinitely in the cans 
when boiled, you can boil as many cans 
as you want at one time and keep it on 
hand for an emergency dessert. It can 
be served with orange juice or plain. 

A. M. G. 

* * * 

A Refreshing Beverage 

TEA, in itself, is not injurious to the 
health, it is in the making or the 
brewing of it that the mischief lies. As 
a remedy for a tired headache, tea has 
no equal, as it washes out and prepares 
the stomach for the next meal. On the 
arrival of visitors to country houses, 
there is a genial custom of sending up 
a cup of tea with a plate of thin bread 
and butter to their room to refresh and 
prepare them for the coming meal. To 
eat a hearty meal when fatigued is a 
sure cause of indigestion. 

A cup of tea taken in the early morn- 
ing, for one in failing health, will some- 
times enable him to get a little more 
sleep and perhaps to eat a better break- 
fast. Dr. Andrew Clarke, a celebrated 
doctor in his time, advised a lady, whose 
mother was in declining health and in- 



variably had sleepless nights, to give her 
at five o'clock in the morning, a cup of 
tea with a slice of bread and butter. She 
did so with the result that the invalid 
would fall asleep and lose all feeling of 
exhaustion when she again awoke. 

The quality of the tea is a matter of 
importance, also of taste, for there are 
those who like nothing but green tea. 
Black tea is considered the most whole- 
some, but where green is liked it may 
be used in the proportion of two ounces 
of green to one pound of black. China 
teas are the best, as they contain less 
tannin. 

Oolong, coming from the island of 
Formosa, is a tea of mild flavor and 
moderate price, but Orange Pekoe is 
the ideal tea. The Chinese call this by 
a name meaning superior perfume. The 
word Pekoe means white hair and is 
applied to the young leaves, owing to the 
fact that they are covered with a fine, 
white down. So distinguished a person- 
age as one of the Chinese Emperors has 
laid down instructions for the proper 
infusion of this excellent tea. You are 
to take, he says, clear spring water and 
heat to the point that would turn a cray 
fish red. You pour this on the leaves 
and forthwith drink it. Stewing and the 
use of the cosy are unknown in those 
regions. 

'TTow long do you boil your tea"? 
This question was once put to me by a 
lady from New England. To boil tea 
is to bring out the tannin, which has a 
hardening effect on the liver. Let the 
water be fresh-boiled, not that that has 



144 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



145 



been boiling a long time. It is a good 
plan to keep a small tea-kettle especially 
for this purpose. The water should boil 
hard for two minutes and then be poured 
on the tea, which should stand for five 
minutes. 

John Wesley was a strong opponent 
of the habit of tea-drinking, yet his fol- 
lowers were famous for their tea-meet- 
ings. I have many pleasant recollections 
of a Wesleyan tea-meeting and the 
amusement it afforded me to see one of 
the members who would drink tea as 
long as he could get a lady to pour it. 
Dr. Samuel Johnson called himself a 
shameless and hardened tea-drinker, who 
with tea amuses the evening, with tea 
solaces the midnight, and with tea wel- 
comes the morning. i. a. g. 
* * * 
Cream Potato Salad 



2 eggs beaten very 
light 

4 tablespoonfuls vine- 
gar 

Butter size of a wal- 
nut 



2 teaspoonfuls salt, 
mustard and pap- 
rika mixture 

i jar cream, whipped 



TO make a mixture, that Cc 
kept on hand, mix three teas 
fuls of salt, one of mustard and on 
of paprika. 

For potato salad use parsley and 
To make dressing, heat vine 
double boiler and pour slowl> 
beaten eggs, stirring all the time 
back in double boiler and cook ui 
custard, stirring all the time, 
done add butter and two teaspooi 
the seasoning. When cold beat 
one-half jar of cream, whippet 
dressing in a large bowl and a 
potato cubes until well coven 
dressing. 

This is enough to serve eight 

R. 

* H< * 

May 6th. 
Editor Cooking-School Magaz 

ON page 792, May number, 
request for Rhubarb Jelly. 
I, too, have not made Rhuba 



but once I was given some that was 
excellent. The lady who made it told 
me that the secret of making Rhubarb 
Jelly was to gather the plant late in 
the summer. She said that in the 
spring the mixture would not "jell," 
but that late in the season it could be 
made successfully in the same manner 
as apple or thin jelly. f. j. w. 

A Very attractne accompaniment 
for the salad course was seen at 
a formal dinner. A small ring mould 
had been filled with cream cheese; 
when this was hard enough to hold, it 
had been turned out and the centre 
had been filled with Bar-le-Duc, the 
whole being set on white lettuce leav*' 
It \vas pretty and extraordinarii- - 



Every one has s^* 
on a big piece 
novelty t^ ' 
roup'' 



14(5 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the cities, it is a pity to throw away even 
a spoonful. Sweet milk that has turned 
sour is much richer in butter fat than 
the buttermilk bought from dairies. Keep 
a jar in the refrigerator, and pour into 
it all left-over milk or cream. It will 
keep a week or longer in a cool place. 
When you have a cupful, try one of 
these recipes. Either sour milk or but- 
termilk can be used. 



Muffins 



2 eggs 

1 cup sour milk 
i teaspoonful soda 
Flour to make batter 




2 tablespoonfuls 

melted shortening 
i teaspoonful salt 
1 heaping teaspoonful 
baking powder 

Beat the eggs until light; add butter 

and salt, stir soda into the milk until it 

foams, then add to eggs. Mix baking 

^-^er with flour enough to make a 

■^'fif batter. Bake in well-greased 

'^ans for about twenty min- 

*"^d. This quantity 

^ry these on 

^rning 

of 



hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. 
Doughnuts 



2 eggs 

2 tablespoonfuls 

melted butter 
1 teaspoonful baking 

powder 
Pinch of salt 



Flour 

I cup sugar 
1 cup sour milk 
i teaspoonful soda 
i teaspoonful ground 
cinnamon 

Beat the eggs until light; add sugar 
and beat again ; add butter, salt and cin- 
namon, and pour into flour that has been 
mixed with the baking powder. Stir 
soda into the sour milk. Work slowly 
into the other mixture with a fork or 
fingers until it is a soft dough. Roll 
about half an inch thick, cut into rings 
and fry in deep boiling fat; drain on 
napkin or soft cloth that will absorb the 
grease, and while still hot, roll in gran- 
ulated sugar. This will make from fifty 
to sixty doughnuts. 

Corn Bread 

2 eggs 

1 tablespoonful 
melted butter 
i teaspoonful soda 
h teaspoonful salt 
1 tablespoonful sugar 

Beat the eggs with sugar; add butter 

md salt; sift baking powder with corn 

leal, stir soda into milk, and stir all to- 

•ther. It should be a thin batter. Bake 

a well-greased pan in a moderately hot 
i m about thirty minutes. This corn 

ad is especially good with cabbage, 

^en beans, spinach, or other green 

■^etables. 



2 heaping cups corn 

meal 
2 cups sour milk 
1 teaspoonful baking 

powder 



Cookies 



ggs 

up butter 

easpoonful baking 

)owder 

ich of salt 



1 cup sugar 
1 cup sour milk 
i teaspoonful soda 
Flour to make a soft 
dough 



3eat the butter to a cream ; add sugar 

k beat again. Beat the eggs and add 

loutter and sugar; sift baking powder 

I I flour, pour butter-mixture into flour, 

' soda into sour milk, and work it 

. vly with the fingers into a soft dough. 

1 out, cut with small cutter and bake 

a moderately hot oven until brown. 

' ^se cookies will keep soft longer than 

nade with sweet milk. 




'T'HIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes, 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus rtmit ;^1.00, Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cookikg-School Magazine, 372 Bcylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 2196.— "Recipe for Chicken Mousse 
to serve hot." 

Hot Chicken Mousse 



1 cup chicken breast 
(scraped to a pulp) 

2 egg-whites 

i cup cold sauce 
i teaspoonful salt 



i teaspoonful pepper 
2 egg-whites, beaten 

firm 
1 cup cream, beaten 

firm 



FOR the sauce, use one level table- 
spoonful, each, of butter and 
flour, a few grains of salt and 
pepper, and half a cup of either chicken 
broth or milk ; let cool before using. 
Pound the chicken-pulp in a wooden 
bowl with a pestle; add the first two 
whites of eggs, unbeaten, one at a time, 
and pound smooth; add the cold sauce 
and again pound until smooth ; set a 
gravy strainer into part of a double 
boiler and through it press the chicken 
mixture; add the seasoning and fold in 
the beaten whites and cream. Fold in 
the whites and cream gently, but thor- 
oughly; there must be no patches of 
beaten egg or cream, but all must be 
blended together thoroughly. Turn into 
one large mold or eight or more indi- 
vidual molds. Set on several folds of 
cloth or paper in a baking dish ; sur- 
round with boiling water and let ocok 
until firm in the center. It will take 
from twenty minutes to one hour. The 
water must not boil during the cooking. 
Let the molds stand a few minutes after 
baking, that the mixture may shrink a 
little from the molds. Unmold on a hot 
dish. Serve with Bechamel sauce 
poured over or around. 



3 tablespoonfuls 

butter 
3 tablespoonfuls 

flour 



Bechamel Sauce 

I teaspoonful salt 
J teaspoonful pepper 
1 cup chicken broth 
i cup cream 



Query 2197. — "How may a Crown Roast of 
Lamb be garnished and what should be 
served with it?" 

Garnish for Crown Roast of Lamb 

The center of a Crown Roast of 
Lamb may be filled with green peas, 
Saratoga potatoes, braised and browned 
potato balls, braised chestnuts, very 
small braised onions or well-seasoned 
flageolet (green, French beans). Paper 
frills are drawn over the ends of the 
rib bones. Around the roast on the plat- 
ter may be set green peppers stuffed with 
chestnut puree, or with rice and creamed 
onions, or with creamed mushrooms or 
any of the other mixtures used for 
stuffing vegetables. Mint sauce or jelly 
on baked bananas, with currant jelly or 
sultana sauce, are often served with 
roast lamb. A new mint sauce is made 
by beating about one- fourth a cup of 
chopped mint into a tumbler of currant 
jelly. 

Query 2198.— "When I fry 'Birds' Nests' 
(in the 'double wire fryer') I cut potatoes 
about like matches and lay them crosswise in 
the large one, press the smaller wire fryer 
down and fry in deep fat or oil; but when I 
take them out the pieces drop apart, and no 
'nest* is formed, why? And what shall I 
do to prevent it?" 

Potato Nests 
In making "potato nests" the shreds 



147 



148 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of potato must be pressed very closely 
together, and there must be a consid- 
erable body of shreds throughout the 
whole space intended for shreds. The 
basket of shreds must be cooked quite a 
long time, until all are thoroughly 
cooked and browned. Usually one is 
more successful with nests large enough 
to serve three people than with the in- 
dividual nests. 



Query 2199. — "Recipe for Squabs en 
Casserole." 

Squabs en Casserole 

Truss four cleaned squabs in the same 
manner as a chicken is trussed for 
roasting. Roll in flour and saute in hot 
fat, turning as needed until well- 
browned on all sides. Dispose in a casse- 
role; add a cup of rich chicken or veal 
broth, salt and pepper as needed and let 
cook about twenty minutes, or until 
nearly done. Parboil one cup of potato 
balls — cut with French cutter — and let 
brown in the fat where the squabs were 
browned ; parboil, also, four mild onions, 
and let brown with the potatoes ; cook 
the onions at least an hour before 
browning, the potatoes only ten minutes ; 
peel eight mushroom caps ; brown these 
in the fat, then add all to the squabs 
and let cook about twenty minutes or 
until tender. Have ready a bunch of 
hot asparagus tips (tender portion 
only) ; add this to the casserole with 
four tablespoonfuls of sherry or 
Madeira. Serve in the casserole. 



2200.— 'Menu for 'Bride-Elect 
in pink, white and green or 



Query 
Luncheon, 
yellow." 

Luncheon for Bride and Friends 

I. (Pink) 

Strawberries, French Fashion 

Fish Mousse, Radish-and-Parsley Border 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Cucumber-and-Radish Salad 

French Dressing (tinted with Chili Sauce) 

Salad Rolls 

Breaded Sweetbreads. Fried. Green Peas 

Lettuce with Pink Cherries. French Dressing 

Raspberry Mousse 

Baby Baltimore Cakes 

Coffee 



II. (IVhite and Green) 

Chicken Soup, beaten egg-whites with 

chopped pistachio nuts above 

Lobster or Fresh Fish Cutlets, 

Sauce Tartare 

Potato Diamonds with Peas 

Cucumbers, French Dressing, sprinkled with 

chopped Parsley or Olives 

Squabs en Casserole with Flageolet and 

slices of Artichoke Bottoms 

Parker House Rolls 
Pistachio Ice Cream in Cups 

Whipped Cream above 

Mints or Candied Mint Leaves 

Coffee 

in. (Yellow) 

Consomme Royal or 

with slices of Egg 

Fish Timbales, yellow Bechamel Sauce 

Peas with carrot straws 

Broiled Medallions of Beef Tenderloin, 

Bernaise Sauce 

Garden Cress, and Mustard, French Dressing 

Orange Sherbet 

Lady Fingers 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 



Query 2201.— "Recipe for Blueberry Pie 
made of canned blueberries with one crust 
and a meringue." 

Blueberry Pie with Meringue 



1 cup sugar, scant 

2 tablespoonfuls 
flour 

i teaspoonful salt 



2 egg-yolks 

1 tablespoonful lem- 
on juice 

2 cups canned berries 
(scant) 
Beat the yolks ; stir in the lemon juice 

and berries. Sift together the sugar, 
flour and salt and stir into the blueberry 
mixture. Turn into a plate lined with 
pastry as for a custard pie. Bake about 
twenty-five minutes or until the mixture 
is "set." When cooled a little, spread a 
meringue over the top and return to the 
oven to cook the meringue. The time 
of cooking will depend on the thickness 
of the meringue. With two whites of 
eggs, cook about ten minutes. To make 
the meringue, beat the whites dry, then 
beat in as many rounding tablespoonfuls 
of sugar as there were whites of eggs. 



Dressing 



Query 2202. — "Russian Salad 
made with Roquefort cheese." 

Russian Salad Dressing with 
Roquefort Cheese 

Beat about one-fourth a cup ofl 
Roquefort cheese to a smooth creamy 
mass; beat in one-fourth a teaspoonful. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 







"X. 



Convince Yourself 



TTS very appearance tells a story of purity. It is creamy white Ind just stiff enough 
"^ to round up nicely on the spoon. 

Then see if it has an odor. You will find none but a delicate aroma, indicative 
ot its purity. Crisco remains the same in hot weather without refrigeration. 

Next taste it. You will find a neutral taste; that is, practically no flavor — not 
greasy or lardy. ' ' It resembles cold, unsalted butter. 

Then try it. First fry potatoes, and note the wholesome potato flavor. You 
may never have known the potato flavor before because the taste of the fat you have been 
using has predominated. Crisco allows the true flavor of the food to assert itself. 

Next make some biscuits. See how light they are. Break one open and you 
will be delighted with its appetizing odor. This is a severe test for a shortening. 

Next make a white cake and learn how delicate and rich your cake will be 
without butter and with few eggs. Below is an excellent and very economical recipe 
taken from the Crisco cook book. 

Please convince yourself about Crisco, If you will know Crisco you will be a 
Crisco enthusiast. The attractive book described below will help you to know Crisco. 

Hurry Up Cake 

\ cupful sugar ^ teaspoonful lemon extract 

\H cupfuU flour 2 whites of eggs 

4 tablespoonfuls Crisco ^ teaspoonful salt 

^ teaspoonful almond extract Milk 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder 

( Use. level measurements) 
Sift flour, baking powder, salt and sugar into bowl. Put whites of eggs into measuring cup, add Crisco, 
and fill cup with milk. Add to dry mixture with extracts and beat vigorously six minutes. Pour into 
small Criscoed and floured cake tin and bake in moderate oven forty-five minutes. Cake may be frosted 
if liked. Sufficient for one small cake. 

Beautiful cloth-bound book of new recipes and a 
^'Calendar of Dinners" for five 2 -cent stamps! 

This handsome book by Marion Harris Neil, Cookery Editor, Ladies' 
Home Journal, gives 615 excellent tested recipes. Also contains a "Calendar 
of Dinners" — a dinner menu for every day in the year. The Calendar tells 
<iv/iat; the recipes tell //onv. Book also contains cookery hints and the 
interesting story of Crisco' s development. Bound in blue and gold cloth. 
Regular price twenty-five cents. To those answering this advertisement, 
however, it will be' sent for Ji^'e t^vo-cent stamps. Address Dept. A-9, 
The Procter & Gamble Co. , Cincinnati, O. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
149 



150 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



each, of salt and paprika, one-fourth a 
cup of chili sauce, one teaspoonful, each, 
of chopped pimentos and green peppers, 
then gradually beat the mixture into a 
cup of mayonnaise or French dressing. 



Query 2203. — "Kindly gi^e • information 
concerning cooking in high altitudes, also 
recipes." 

Suggestions for Cooking at High 
Altitudes 

By a Colorado Housekeeper 

1. Longer boiling is necessary on ac- 
count of the lower degree at which 
water boils ; the time varies according to 
the altitude, the higher the altitude the 
lower the degree of boiling. 

2. Less shortening is required. Any 
tof the recipes for cakes, cookies, baba, 
etc., given in American Cookery, can be 
used successfully by simply cutting down 
the quantity of butter and sugar one- 
fourth. 

3. The quantity of baking powder 
and the number of eggs I do not change, 
and the finished products are invariably 
commended. 

4. Syrups for sherberts, candies, etc., 
require longer boiling; and in candy- 
making, when the mixture is boiled 
enough, the thermometer does not regis- 
ter as high as at sea level. Syrup for 
icing and fondant is at the soft ball 
stage, when the thermometer registers 
from 218° F. to 222° F. 

5. In making "Choice Caramels" (as 
in Cooking for Two) I boil to 230° F. 
upward, according to stiffness desired 
an the caramels and the season of the 
year. 

6. Distilled water boils at 204° F. 
Hydrant water at 205° F. 

7. The syrup for fruit punch, as 
given on page 58 in Practical Cooking 
<md Serving, which reaches, at sea level, 
a density of 35° after twenty minutes' 
boiling, requires thirty-three minutes' 
boiling. The time is varied somewhat 
according to the depth of the syrup in 
the pan, as the evaporation depends on 
the amount of surface exposed as well 
as the pressure of the atmosphere. 



8. Syrup for sherberts, page 614 
Practical Cooking and Serving, which 
calls for twenty minutes' boiling in this 
altitude; or 

9. One pint of sugar and one quart 
of water, boiled gently thirty-three min- 
utes, produces a generous cup and a 
half of syrup of a density of 35°. 

High Altitude Sponge Cake 



5 eggs 

U cups pastry flour 
1 cup sugar 
4 tablespoonfuls 
water 



1 teaspoonful 
(slightly round- 
ing) baking pow- 
der 

i lemon, juice and 
grated rind 

Beat the yolks; add the sugar, water, 

three-fourths of the flour, the lemon 

juice and rind. Beat thoroughly; add 

the baking powder and the rest of the 

flour and fold in Hghtly; fold in the 

whites, beaten dry, and pour into an 

unbuttered cake-pan with tube. Bake 

from an hour to an hour and a half. 

High Altitude Sunshine Cake 

1 whole egg 1 cup flour 

10 tg^ yolks 1 level teaspoonful 

1 cup granulated baking powder 

sugar Lemon and vanilla 

3 tablespoonfuls j extract 

boiling water 

Beat the eggs all together very light; 
beat the sugar into the eggs, gradually, 
using the tgg beater; add the boiling 
water, then add the flour and baking 
powder. Pour into a dry, cold pan, long 
and narrow in shape. 



Angel Cakelets 



5 egg whites 
h. teaspoonful vanilla 
extract 



* cup flour 

i cup sugar 

h. teaspoonful cream 

of tartar 

Sift the flour and sugar five times be- 
fore measuring, then sift again together 
with the cream-of-tartar; fold in the 
whites, beaten dry, and the extract ; drop 
from a spoon on buttered paper and 
bake from ten to twelve minutes in a 
slow oven. 

Sponge Drops 

v3 eggs 4 teaspoonful vanilla 

1 teaspoonful salt \ cup cake flour 

2 cup sugar 

Beat yolks until thick and creamy ; 
add sugar and continue beating; add the 



ADVERTISEMExNTS 




♦ • 



Only the best and purest malt 
Vinegar-made in our own brewer- 
ics,on the banksof the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England— is used. 



mm 




It Ukes over two years of careful preparation 
•Md a<«ing to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 

A good wine cannot be made in a day—neither 
«•• Holbrook's Sauce. 



^a^" 



"It is iMttar to om 
•auce at all tkaa a aaa 
that U not Holbrook's." 



HOLBROOirS 

^QRCES^RSHIRE 

nSAUCE 




" You pa/y6u?duesT 
axe com 
nenv6i 



Qelicaie complimeni 



on use 
oi iKe salaa 

OIL 

"THE OIL OF THE EPICURE" 

IT is as though you should say: "Mine friend, you and I know the great 

- 1 difference in flavor between mere pure olive oil and this pure olive oil — 
come let us enjoy its exquisite bouquet and pity those who do not know." 

At your dealer's or delivered direct in gallon or half-gallon cans or in bottles securely packed upon receipt of 
the following prices: Gallons $3.85. half-gallons $2.25, 21 ounces $1.00, 10 ounces 60c. 5 ounces 35c. Send to-day 
for the interesting McNally Olive Oil booklet with which we shall forward 6 beautiful post cards showing famous 
scenic spots in California. Address Chicago Office McNally Ranch, 103 Rand-McNally Building, Chicago 

r \\ huCL Six scenic post cards and beautiful 
booklet. Write for them to-day. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
151 



152 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



salt to the whites and beat until dry ; 
fold in the whites and the flour; drop 
the mixture gently from the tip of a 
spoon on an unbuttered tin sheet; sprin- 
kle with pulverized sugar and bake in a 
cool oven about eight minutes. Put to- 
gether in pairs with jelly or preserves 
between. 

Cooking Meat in Liquid 

Before cooking meats in liquid (boil- 
ing, en casserole, etc.), sear over the 
outside either in a hot oven or in the 
frying pan ; the time required for this 
will depend upon the degree of heat 
applied, but it takes longer than at sea 
level and it also seems to be more nec- 
essary than at sea level, when the final 
cooking is to be conducted with 
moisture. 



ful, each, of salt, paprika and mustard, 
and, if not sufficiently acid, one table- 
spoonful of lemon juice or vinegar, then, 
using an egg-beater, beat until thick and 
light. 



Query 2204. — "What may be substituted 
for molasses in recipes calling for molasses, 
as Boston Brown Bread?" "Recipe for 
Beaten Biscuit." 

Substitute for Molasses 
Dark brown sugar is the nearest sub- 
stitute for molasses with which we are 
acquainted. 

Southern Beaten Biscuit 

With the tips of the fingers work a 
teaspoonful of butter into a pint of flour, 
then mix with milk or water to a very 
firm dough. Beat the dough with a mal- 
let about twenty minutes or run it 
through a biscuit brake until it is beau- 
tifully smooth and velvety. Cut into 
rounds, prick with a fork (some cutters 
prick the dough as it is cut into 
rounds) ; bake about half an hour in a 
moderate oven. These biscuit will some- 
times split evenly and the texture is sim- 
ilar to that of crackers. Some cooks 
prefer to mix the biscuit with buttermilk 
into which one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
soda has been stirred. 



Query 2205. — "Recipe for Sour Cream 
Salad Dressing." 

Sour Cream Salad Dressing 

To one cup of thickened and slightly 
sour cream add one-fourth a teaspoon- 



QuERY 2206.— "Recipe for Sour-Cream Bis- 
cuits." 

Sour Cream Biscuits 

Sift together two cups of pastry flour, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and three 
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Work in two tablespoonfuls of shorten- 
ing; stir a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
soda into three-fourths a cup of thick 
sour cream and continue to stir until the 
mixture foams, then use in mixing the 
dry ingredients to a dough. All of the 
milk may not be needed. Turn the 
dough upon a floured board then knead 
slightly, pat and roll into a sheet, cut 
into rounds and bake in a quick oven. 

Query 2207. — "Recipe for a broiled-and- 
stuffed Porter-house Steak." 

Broiled and Stuffed Porter House 
Steak 

Have a porter-house steak an inch 
and a half in thickness; shorten or en- 
tirely remove the flank end, wipe the 
steak carefully with a damp cloth, and 
broil in a hot, well-oiled broiler, six min- 
utes, tu^^ning each ten seconds for the 
first minute. Set the steak on a dish 
suitable for the oven ; have ready about 
Ojjie pint of carefully washed-and-cleaned 
oysters or the equivalent of fresh mush- 
room caps, nicely peeled ; spread the 
steak with butter, then cover completely 
with the oysters, or the mushrooms ; 
sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper and 
add a bit of butter to each mushroom 
cap or oyster. Set on the upper grate 
of a hot oven and let cook until the 
oysters look plump, with the edges 
ruffled, or the mushrooms are cooked 
through. The same result can be se- 
cured by broiling the oysters and steak, 
separately, and serving the oysters above 
the steak; the mushroom caps may be 
broiled or cooked in the oven and trans- 
ferred to the steak. Onions, sliced and 



ADVERTISEMENTS 








Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
153 



154 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



sauted in hot fat, are also used abo\e a 
broiled steak. 

Query 2208. — "How is Thousand Island 
Salad Dressing mixed, and with what kinds 
of salad is it used?" 

Mixing of Thousand Island Salad 
Dressing 

As we understand the matter, the 
recipe to which you refer is Russian 
salad dressing. The following is, we 
suppose, the formula for the dressing 
called Thousand Island : Put into a 
small glass fruit jar half a cup of olive 
oil, the juice of half a lemon, and half 
an orange, a teaspoonful of grated onion 
pulp, one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika, one teaspoonful, of 
Worcestershire sauce, one- fourth a tea- 
spoonful of mustard and three sprigs of 
parsley, chopped fine; put on a rubber 
and the cover and shake vigorously un- 
til well-mixed and creamy, then pour at 
once over the salad ingredients. This is 
suitable for tomatoes, asparagus, peas, 
beans, spinach, lettuce, endive, &c. 

Russian Salad Dressing 



1 cup of mayonnaise 
dressing 

1 teaspoonful of pi- 
mentos, chopped 
fine 

1 teaspoonful of 
green peppers, 
chopped fine 



1 teaspoonful of tar- 
ragon vinegar 

i a teaspoonful of 
paprika 

i a teaspoonful of 
salt 

i a cup of olive oil 

i a cup of chili sauce 



Prepare the mayonnaise in the usual 
manner, then to a cup of the dressing, 
gradually beat in an extra half-cup of 
oil, then the chili sauce, seasonings, vin- 
egar and fine-chopped vegetables. 



Query 2209.— "Recipe for a Lemon Cake 
that is like down to the tongue." 

Lemon Queens 



I U cups of flour 
i a teaspoonful of 
soda 



i a cup of butter 
1 cup of sugar 
4 egg-yolks 
Grated rind and [ 4 egg-whites 

juice of i a lemon Boiled Frosting 

Mix the cake in the usual manner. 

The ingredients are enumerated in order 

of use. Bake in small tins. When cold 

cover with boiled frosting flavored with 

lemon. 



Query 2210.— "How may ham fat be util- 
ized in cooking?" 

Use of Ham Fat 

Set the fat over the fire with a little 
milk or cold water, about half a cup to 
a quart of fat, and let cook, slowly, un- 
til the liquid has evaporated, then strain. 
This may be used in frying or sauteing 
potatoes, fish, calf's liver, in making 
brown sauce, basting roast meat or in 
the preparation of any dish in which a 
slight flavor of ham is not objectionable. 



Query 2211. — "When is the best time to 
can Rhubarb and what is the best method?" 

Canning Rhubarb 

Probably rhubarb is at its best just 
before the plant flowers. If the stalks 
are young and tender, do not remove 
the peel ; fill sterilized jars with long 
stalks, they should come up to the nar- 
rowing of the jar, adjust rubbers, fill the 
jars to overflow with cold water from 
the faucet, make the covers tight and 
store in a dark place. 



Query 2212. — "Recipes for Rhubarb Con- 
serve." 

Rhubarb Conserve 



3 pints of rhubarb in 

bits 
8 cups of sugar 
i lb. raisins, seeded 



2 oranges, grated, 

rind and juice 
i a cup of water 
1 cup blanched al- 
monds, - sliced 



Cook all the ingredients save the nuts 
twenty minutes ; add the almonds, let 
boil five minutes, then store as canned 
fruit. 

REFRIGERATORS-ICE BOXES 

and all places where meats and foodf 

are kept should be regularly disinfected 

and purified by using 

Platts rhlorides . 

The Odorless Disinfectant. 

Destroys germs and foul odors, does not 
permeate the food. 

Safe, Efficient and Economical. Sold Everywhert 

HENRY B. PLATT 
42 Cliff Street, New York City. N. Y. 



Simple Company Luncheon 

(6 Covers) 

Chicken en Casserole 

(Onions, carrots, celery) 

Romaine Salad 

Squash Muffins 

(Baking powder) 

Peach Sherbet 

Almond Cake 

Coffee 



One O'clock Luncheon for Card Party 

(24 Guests) 

Scalloped Oysters 

French Pickle in Lemon Cups 

Parker House Rolls 

]Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. Sliced Eggs and Shredded Peppers 

Lemon (sherbet) and Banana (parfait) Bombe Glace 

Macaroons 

Coffee 

Home Dinner with Guests 

(8 Covers) 

Oyster Soup, New Pickles 

Veal Cutlets, Pojarski, Tomato Sauce 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Corn Custard 

Lettuce and Celery. French Dressing 

Sliced Peaches, Sugar Cream 

Coffee 

Refreshments for Evening Card Party 

(24 Guests) 

Creamed Chicken and Celery in Swedish Timbale Cases 

Lettuce with Ham Mousseline, French Dressing 

Rye Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Pineapple and Pear Sherbet 

(Canned fruit pressed through sieve) 

Little Pound Cakes 

Fruit Punch 



w I vi-r 



American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



OCTOBER, 1914 



No. 3 



The Inn of the Olden Time 



Bv jNIarv Harrod Northend 



WE had always been city people 
— so much so that everyone 
used to laugh at our "pave- 
ment love," as they called it. They 
would ask us out to see their new homes 
in the country, show us over the house 
and garden, and then insinuatingly re- 
mark that there w^as ''a nice little plot 
of land down the road for sale." We 
knew ! They were lonely and w^anted 
neighbors! We always looked around 
and spied the reason why. 

Town was good enough for us — trol- 
leys and theatres and drug-stores and 
restaurants. All of these made up the 
sum of the good things that our souls 
craved. 

Then, one day, I wandered into an 
auction room and got interested in a 
sale of old pepper pots and porringers 
and flip-glasses and Tobys. From that 
day I can trace the utter change that 
came over our lives. First we. Jim and 
I, got tremendously keen on adding to a 
rapidly increasing collection of these 
quaint little relics of a by-gone century. 
And with our collection our hunger for 
more specimens and more knowledge 
grew apace. When we felt that we had 
scoured every old shop in town and had 
bought all we could afford, we still hun- 
gered for the things we read about as 
being found by adventuring collectors in 
out of the way places. Thus w'ere our 
naturally home-staying thoughts turned 
into new roads. 

On Saturdays we used to go off on 
trolley trips into the deepest country 




ROAD TO THE INN 

we could find and then branch off from 
the end of the line into the wilds to 
discover some old farmhouse, perhaps 
where one or two odd pieces of china or 
glass or old pewter were to be found. 
But the territory that was to be reached 
in this way was soon exhausted, and our 
"finds" had been so few that we had 
been saving money. Then came the great 
inspiration — we bought a cheap little 
two-passengar car and discovered Amer- 
ica — the parts of it we hadn't known be- 
fore. Oh, the joy of getting out into 
the open — of finding new roads of 
which we had never heard, of spendin^^ 
long happy holidays exploring the coun- 
try and ending up by chance somewhere 
for supper and a welcome bed in some 
charmingly quaint old inn ! Thus we 
formed the Inn-habit, and much we 
learned of the history of the old inn? 
that used to be everywhere through the 
eastern part of the country and wliich 
the rise of the automobile has revived 
to a new life. 



187 



188 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



/ 


\ 




I H - ' '*J^^ 



THE SIGN 

For the city-bound family there can 
be no better possession than the small 
automobile — that is, in case they can- 
not afiford a big one. As the years 
passed and Jim's salary was increased 
most pleasantly, we graduated from our 
two-passenger to a five and then a 
seven. And this enlargement of our re- 
souices opened up the chance to take 
friei.ds with us. ^lany a delightful inn 
we discovered; many a good night's 
rest we enjoyed under low ceilings, m 
old-fashioned surroundings; and many 

oh. \ery many, lessons we learned 

about the old-time furnishings of these 
inns. 

lUit many of the inns are new, and 
on one trip we had found only such; 
our search for the antique had been un- 
rewarded. 

W'e were on our way to the White 
Mountains. There were six of us in 
the car, and much heterogeneous lug- 
gage. As we left Boston we were de- 
termined to get as far as Portsmouth, 
to sleep in the good hotel there as we 
had on other trips. But the gasoline 
gave out and we stopped for more, and 
there — at the first aid depot — we 
heard of an old inn out on the Box- 



ford Road. It was not on the turn- 
pike, we were told, but a little to one 
side, situatea up on a high hill. We 
left the main road, as our local guide 
iiad directed, and whizzed up a long 
hill. Sure enough, there was the inn, 
a long rambling, low building, pictur- 
esque and interesting even at a dis- 
tance. A swinging sign hung from a 
rustic post was the first intimation, for 
the low roof of the building was hid- 
den away behind the shoulder of the 
liill and. the stone wall. The architec- 
ture was quite out of the ordinary and 
defied description. Its low roof, its 
open cross-beams, which caused the two 
six-foot members of the party to duck 
their heads, were amusing, as was the 
whole air of the room. The stable at 
the rear was big and roomy, with ample 
space for our car. At the back was 
a kitchen, like a long ell, which joined 
house and stable. 

As we sat on the veranda before an 
open air log fire, for the September 
late afternoon was crisp and cool, look- 
ing out across to the hills on the horizon, 
we could well imagine the days when 
this inn was a busy stopping-place for 
the farm teams laden with produce and 
later for the old stage-coach, which 
passed near enough on its way from 
Boston to Portsmouth to stop over here 
for dinner or for the night. 

Inside we found the tap-room as of 
old, but no longer used for the serving 
of liquor. The wide entry, with its 
quaint surroundings, was hung with a 
wall-paper quite Shakespearean in ef- 
fect. The big fire-place in the dining- 
room showed a blazing log as we 
came in to try to entice the old inn- 
keeper into conversation. It didn't take 
much enticing, for, like most of his ilk, 
he was disposed to be quite chatty about 
the old times of which he cherished 
memories and traditions. 

''This house isn't the original inn," 
he said; "the house was first built, my 
father used to tell me, exactly like Anne 
Hathaway's cottage at Stratford-on- 



THE IXX OF THE OLDEX TIME 



189 



Avon. It burned down one sad day and 
when the new house was built it was 
made somewhat Hke the old one, but 
additions have changed it. The main 
road used to pass near here then, and 
lots of custom came to the house. I 
cannot remember those days when the 
stage coach used to come here with its 
loads of passengers, many of them dis- 
tinguished men; but father and mother 
used to tell me of the great people who 
had slept here in the old times. 

'Tn those days Salem was a great 
place, lots of wealth and property there ; 
and the teams would come through and 
stop here carrying loads of handsome 
furniture, foreign fruits and other 
things that the big ships brought to 
Salem from other countries. Xight 
after night there would be a merry 
party of travelers night-bound, and 
many a dance in the old tap-room, with 
the darkey fiddler. Old Black Joe, play- 
ing jigs for the company. People really 
danced in those days — jigs and \ir- 
ginia reels — and many a pretty pigeon- 
wing did the merchants and even the 



smocked farmers cut in their jolly 
moods. 

'*Do you see that glass in the door? 
Well, that was to watch through, for it 
wasn't safe in those days to let people 
in, sometimes, unless you knew some- 
thing about them. There were pirates 
then ! Oh, yes, there were ! 

"Father cut that motto on the fire- 
place and we've always left it just as 
he did it. This old fire-frame shows 
the age of the building, for, you know, 
fire-frames came in just after the fire- 
place and were for the Franklin stoves. 
This is hardly a frame, really, but it 
answers the purpose just as well. That 
chair is a Martha Washington Sheraton 
that Grandmother always sat in, for she 
was an innkeeper herself — You've 
heard, T suppose, that women sometimes 
were the innkeepers in those days, and 
they say they sometimes did the job 
better than the men. My grandmother 
was one of those. 

" 'Chippendale,' ma said, was the 
name of these other chairs — 'Chippen- 
dale slat-back ' — she called them. I see 




LOUXC.IXti R^)OM 



190 



AMERlCAxX COOKERY 



you looking at that china closet. 1 had 
those doors made with glass and those 
crossed slats, so 1 could see that things 
were all right in there and be sure to 
know if anything was stolen. You see, 
we like to keep our old mugs and glasses 
and pitchers — there's none too many 
left in the countn,- nowadays." 

"Supper's about ready — maybe you'd 
like to go upstairs and prink a bit," 
he suggested, and we accepted the sen- 
sible advice. 

In the chambers above, the sloping 
roof made it necessary to place the four- 
post bedsteads in the center of each 
room. Electric bells and some few 
things in the way of modem conven- 
iences had been added as a concession 
to the motorist's ideas of comfort, but 
the air of quaintness could not be killed 
even ]j\- the buzz of a bell or the nice 
little maid who answered its call. 

In the old dining-room with its sim- 
ple wooden chairs we ate one of the 
best chicken dinners I ever tasted, and 
then sauntered out to engage the old 
man in conversation ag^ain, for we could 
see that he was a character we would 
rarely find. 

He told us that when his grandmother 
had kept the inn there was an old- 



fashioned tap-room where the entrance 
now^ is, but that temperance laws 
changed all that. 

■'In those days, say about 1720," he 
added, "you could get two kinds of flip. 
One was the West India kind that was 
sold at twenty pence the glass, and the 
other was made of New England rum 
and was only twelve pence. Ginger, 
nutmeg, and dried lemon peel were 
grated and mixed and rubbed fine in 
a mortar. The ale was put on the fire 
to warm and three or four eggs w^ere 
beaten up with four ounces of sugar, 
a teaspoonful of the grated spices and 
a quarter gill of rum or brandy. When 
the ale was near boiling it was put in 
one pitcher and the other things in an- 
other, then it was all mixed and turned 
from one pitcher to the other till it was 
smooth as cream. The flip stick by this 
time was red-hot in the coals and when 
the flip was ready it was plunged in to 
heat it. 

"In those days," w^ent on our loqua- 
cious host, "dinner was only twenty 
cents and you could eat all you wanted. 
Supper and breakfast were only fifteen 
cents for the best there was to be had. 
and twelve cents for lodging. They 
used to charge fourpence extra for a 




LIVING ROOM 



THE INN OF THE OLDEN TIME 



191 



feather-bed so high that you had to 
cHmb up steps to get in. Nowadays," 
he added, with a sly chuckle, "the raise 
in prices makes us charge a bit more." 

"Do you see those worn places in the 
boards? Those came from the dancing," 
and we seemed to hear the dancing, 
shuffling feet of the travelers of long 
ago. The old inn seemed peopled with 
the dim shadows of those stage-coach 
comers. 

"Ordination Day was a grand time 
with the people of those days," the inn- 
keeper said. "The inn was as popular 
as the meetinghouse then, perhaps more 
so. Ma used to mull what she called 
'Ordination Beer' and ginger-beer, too. 
In the evenings, she said, the walls and 
rafters would ring and the floor shake 
with the merriment of V^irginia Reel 
and Fisher's Hornpipe, while the minis- 
ter sat and looked on and enjoyed it 
all as much as any of them. 

"But what really brought the crowd 
was when a merchant man brought a 
turtle and had a feast here. Ever 
tasted turtle?" he asked, and when we 
allowed we had, he said, "But not as 
they cooked it in those days — no, sir, 
that was a feast you can't get to-day." 

Out in the stable loft we found the 
remains of an old stage-coach — the last 
one used between Boston and Ports- 
mouth, and this discovery opened up 
more reminiscences for us. 

"Yes, the stage-coach was a grand 
thing for the inns, even more so than 
these automobiles. You see, in those 
days there wasn't any newspapers of any 
account and all the country people used 
to come in to the inn to hear the news 
that the passing of the coach brought. 
We had a stable full of changes of 
horses, then. 

In some of these old inns we found 
beautiful old furniture — pieces that had 



been handed down from many genera- 
tions of inn-keepers ; and we found that 
the early tavern keepers were often of 
the gentry. The old tables, settles, 
chairs and low-boys were well worth 
studying. Even more interesting to us, 
however, were flip glasses, the queer old 
Tobys, the Liverpool pitchers, pewter 
mugs and jugs for ale. On one we 
found the inscription: 

"Dear Tom, this brown jug, 
Which now foams with brown ale, 
Out of which I drink to sweet Nora of the 
Vale." 

"Customers came and I did trust them, 
So I lost my money and my custom ; 
And to lose both it grieves me sore, 
So I am resolved to trust no more." 

Some inns have the old lustre ware 
mugs and some have jugs of Bristol 
glass with their pretty colored pictures. 
The tables at which the guests sat to 
drink were usually of oak, with turned 
legs. They were big enough for four 
guests to sit at comfortably, and drawn 
up near the fire they were very cozy 
for a little chat over the affairs of the 
country. Where the farmers used to 
sit and gossip and the stage drivers 
would snap their whips before the fire 
as they told tales of the road over their 
flip glasses ; now there are trim entry- 
halls and quiet offices where one 
registers. 

But few of the old inns remain now, 
though many charming new ones are 
coming up to take their places. In the 
modern ones along the well-traveled 
roads one finds all the comforts — but 
not the old-time atmosphere that is so 
delightful. It is only once in a while we 
discover that, in our excusions afield. 
But we always keep on hoping and 
searching and in the search lies almost 
as much pleasure as in the few great 
"finds" like the one I have described. 




Cupid in Venison Stew 

A True Little Tale with Only the Name of the Heroine Changed 

By Ladd Plumley 



SHE is an ancient grande dame 
now. And last year and the year 
before, and for many years, she 
has made the European trip that she 
made on her honeymoon, stopping at the 
same hotels and ending with Eg\pt and 
the pyramids. 

Let us change her silvered hair to lus- 
trous brown, and the spectacled eyes to 
the brightest and merriest of orbs, and 
let us try to imagine how Kathlyne 
looked in a long ago. 

Irish girls are about the sweetest of 
girls. And the Emerald Isle can show 
beauty of a kind that is hardly to be 
found anywhere. Kathlyne had a figure 
as trim as a young larch, eyes the hue 
of the gentian, and cheeks that were of 
a pink not known to color boxes. Her 
mother died when she was a little girl, 
and her father, a north of Ireland 
clergyman, came to his sudden death by 
a fall from a horse. After his death, 
the furniture and books were sold and 
the proceeds represented all of the 
young girl's patrimony. 

Everybody in Ireland was talking of 
the ease with which gold could be picked 
up in the new world. So the adventur- 
ous girl, quite alone, sailed to the city 
of New York. 

The only gold poor Kathlyne saw in 
the city of her Eldorado was in the 
Broadway jewelr)^ stores of the fash- 
ionable shopping districts below Union 
Square. The square itself of that time 
was an open meadow where children 
picked their posies. 

The young Irish girl found a board- 
ing place in the Greenwich Village sec- 
tion of the city and began a search for 
work. She had received only a meagre 
education, but she had expected to ob- 
tain a position as a teacher. When, 
however, she came before the school 



board of the time, her dear Irish brogue 
counted against her and she gave up 
that hope. Then, there were no great 
stores in those days, the employment of 
girl clerks was unknown, and she soon 
found that there was nothing open for 
her. 

The bills and ''shin-plasters" in her 
knitted purse dwindled and dwindled. 
The landlady, with the intuition of most 
landladies, began to show her stiffest 
manner and a frowning face. The girl's 
clothing was getting shabby and her 
shoes down at the heel. But her brave 
Irish spirit did not fail her. Before the 
ebb of the purse had reached the danger 
limit she had made her decision. She 
would go west. Everybody was talking 
of the wonderful opportunities across 
the Alleghanys. 

The ''west" then meant Pittsburgh and 
a strange beyond. Chicago was a bus- 
tling young town, and from St. Louis 
the adventurer stepped westward among 
buffaloes and Indians. 

Kathlyne found the journey arduous 
and primitive, alternating on strips of 
railroad, on stage coaches, and in river 
boats. But she was befriended by a lit- 
tle woman who was going with her chil- 
dren to join her husband in some dis- 
tant uncertainty beyond Cincinnati. And 
in a little river hotel in that town, then 
a shipping place of low houses, the Irish 
girl was taken ill. No wonder. The 
steamboat trip on the Ohio had been 
made at a time when the floods were 
subsiding and malarial fogs hung thick 
in the valley. 

At Cincinnati the companion of the 
journey found a letter from her husband 
asking her to hasten. So the sick girl 
was left behind in a small room in the 
little hostelry. But the hotel-keeper's 
wife was a kind woman and Kathlvne 



192 



CUPID IN VENISON STEW 



193 



was better off than if she had been taken 
sick in the New York boarding-house. 
For weeks "none-break fever," as it was 
called, almost made her wish that she 
could die. The ancient dame of the 
present day throws out her hands, her 
diamonds flashing, as she tells of her ill- 
ness. 

"My dearie, such torments! Shake? 
I made my poor cot so rickety that I 
was afraid it would collapse in the night. 
Oh, that diabolical illness !" 

Then, when she was well enough to 
leave her room, the roses of her cheeks 
had faded, and the knitted purse was 
empty. But the Irish spirit was uncon- 
querable. And the merry eyes were as 
merry as ever. And, if she could have 
known, something else was unchanged. 
And in that something lay the road to 
fortune and of a measure that few know. 
For Kathlyne was a born cook; that 
strange artist who will tell you with a 
condescending: smile, "How many spoon- 
fuls of flour? Really I don't know — I 
follow my instinct. Cooking is that way 
with me. I can never manage a printed 
receict." 

iLxclaimed the hotel-keeper's wife one 
day: "The last kitchen help has gone 
and done it! Girls out here marry as 
easily as an Ohio boat hits snags. What 
m Jehoshaphat I'm to do worries me to 
the very innards!" 

The Irish girl scorned to live on char- 
ity, and the purse was very empty. So 
she became the cook of the hotel. And 
before many weeks had passed the word 
went forth, up and down the river, that 
lips smacked in the ding^^ dining-room of 
the "Ocean House." Why "ocean" is 
hard at this late date to comprehend, but 
that was the name of the house of Kath- 
lyne's culinary triumphs. 

In time the fame of the hotel's cook- 
ery reached even the jumping-off plank, 
St. Louis ; and many a traveler hastened 
his pony-racked muscles to linger on his 
way eastward amid the meat dumplings, 
stews, and apple tarts of the Ocean" 
House. 



The returning pilgrims from the "dig- 
gings" of California brought with them 
heavy pockets, and spent their gold as 
easily as some of them had gained it. 
One of these was a man of fifty, prema- 
turely grey and wrinkled of face, yet of 
a rugged and almost giant frame, and 
humorous dancing black eyes. The other 
guests of the Ocean House gossiped that 
the gods of chance had been over-gen- 
erous to Hiram Farway. He was talked 
about and envied as today a Carnegie 
or a Rockefeller is talked about and 
envied. 

On his second evening at the long table 
in the dining-room of the hotel, Farway 
laid down his fork with a sigh. 

"Ambrosia of the gods !" he exclaimed 
to the table in general. Yet he had par- 
taken only of a generous portion of ven- 
ison stew. "A man w^ho can cook like 
that ought to be the chef of Louis Bona- 
parte himself!" 

He rattled the money in his pocket and 
stretched his great body upward. 

"You, nigger, take me to the kitchen. 
The cook is going to have his hand 
yellowed !" 

The darkey grinned. 

"Massa, she ain't no man. She ain't 
even no w-oman. She's jes' a gal!" 

"Stop your palavering and take me to 
the kitchen," commanded Farway. 
"They said in St. Louis that the Ocean 
House had a man cook." 

"You done heard of Massa O'Brien," 
replied the negro. "Miss Kathlyne kin 
cook lik' 'er angel — what she shorely is. 
She done teached Massa O'Brien !" 

Kathlyne had finished her labors for 
the day. When Farway entered, she was 
standing at the door of the kitchen look- 
ing out over the river. 

"This 'ere gentl'man, Miss Kathlyne, 
says as how he shorely must mak' th' 
acquaintance of th' man cook," giggled 
the darkey. 

Farway faced the young Irish girl. 
The roses had come back to her face by 
this time and her eyes held the witchery 
that they hold even to the present day. 



194 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The hand that had intended to bestow 
largesses was hastily pulled from the 
pocket, and with the most courteous of 
old-fashioned obeisances the lover of 
vension stew made his compliments. He 
added, ''Will you please let me make my 
appearance more presentable and allow 
me to call on you in the ladies' parlor to- 
morrow at three?" 

Farway had been educated at a college 
in the state of Maine, and at the second 
interview with Kathlyne he learned of 
her history and of the ambition of her 
heart. This ambition was that she de- 
sired, what so many girls always desire, 
to obtain as good an education as can be 
had. 

Before very long Farway made a pro- 
posal to the cook of the Ocean House. 

The ancient grand lady delights in giv- 
ing this proposal in his words : 

'T'm not a young fellow. And very 
likely by the time that you decide to 
marry you will have found one more 
suitable in age and in other respects 
than myself. However, the Ocean 
House must lose its wonderful cook. 
And you, young woman, will go back to 
New York and at once. There, I am 
acquainted with a lady who will take 
you in charge. . You will enter the 
Spingler Institute — our finest school. 
If you are so minded, you will continue 
in the school for the next four or five 
years. I shall frequently write to you 
and sometimes shall come to see you. 
If you should happen to find the fortu- 
nate young man, I only humbly ask that 
I may be allowed to act the part of a 
god-father at your wedding. But if no 
such youth has turned up, when you 
graduate I shall make a formal proposal 
for your hand. If you decide to refuse 
me, well and good. I expect you to 
follow the promptings of your heart. 
And if you refuse there will be little 
difficulty in obtaining for you a position 
as a teacher, suited to one who has had 
the advantages of the best school in 
America." 

*T would have done a very foolish 



thing, dearie, if I had refused so gen- 
erous an ofifer," says the old lady. 'T 
entered the fine old school that fall and 
lived there for the full of the time nec- 
essary for my graduation. 

"Every month's end brought a great 
box of sweets, or a splendid bunch of 
roses; and, sometimes, I used to find a 
pretty bit of jewelry entangled in the 
flowers. And letters, in a great bear's 
paw of a hand, came with every week. 
It would have been a strange girl, dearie, 
who could have resisted that sort of 
courting." 

It is a simple little love tale of the 
early sixties of the last century, and it 
is mingled with the business history of 
the middle west. For Farway settled in 
the city of Chicago and opened a bank- 
ing concern, which developed into one of 
the great institutions of that date. 

Two or three times a year the banker 
came on to New York, and the former 
cook of the Ocean House took dinners 
with him and the lady who acted as the i 
girl's chaperon. There were boxes at - 
the grand opera in the old opera-house 
on Fourteenth Street, and many other 
gala proceedings dear to the heart of 
youth and beauty. 

The evening after Kathlyne graduated, 
there followed a wedding at Grace 
Church and a reception in the hotel. 

All the girls of the Spingler Institute 
were invited to th*e reception, and all of 
the graduating class had great bunches 
of flowers, with a string of gold beads 
around the stems, and special coaches 
were sent for them to their houses or 
to the school building. 

And so this little tale gets back in its 
roundabout manner to the ancient grande 
dame who annually takes the tour of 
Europe in memory of her husband. And 
little do those who meet her in London, 
Paris, or at Shepherd's Hotel in Cairo, 
know that the stately old lady, who trav- 
els with a retinue of attendants, once 
cooked in an Ohio river hotel for steam- 
boat pilots and a riflfraff of frontier 
guests. 



A Wedgwood Teapot 



By Mary W. Eccles 



A MIDDLE-AGED gentleman, of 
pleasing countenance and gentle 
mien, astride a chestnut mare, 
came riding through the streets of a 
Staffordshire town, in the year of our 
Lord 1760. 

It was a day in the month of perfect 
days; but the landscape did not match 
the weather in this extremely dingy, 
work-a-day village of Burslem. Past 
door-yards, unkempt, and back-yards 
strewn with debris, the stranger rode, 
until turning a corner he spied a flower- 
garden, all abloom, and hastened toward 
it as to an oasis in this veritable desert 
of ugliness. 

Clumps of bachelor-buttons, poppies 
and marigolds grew just inside the 
hedge, while beds of pansies, sweet- 
williams, forget-me-nots and lovely, old- 
fashioned, fragrant pinks, added their 
touch to the riot of color through which 
one must walk to reach the little ivy- 
draped cottage in the rear. 

Coming close to the garden he sees a 
young man, somewhat lame, busily weed- 
ing the flower-beds. 

"My friend, I perceive that you alone 
are the patron of beauty in Burslem." 

The young man straightened his bent 
shoulders and smiling repHed, "The soil 
is poorly adapted to flower culture, un- 
less you are willing to help it along quite 
a little. Most of the Burslemites think 
the 'game not worth the candle'." 

"But you?" queried the stranger. 

"Oh ! I call it my Inspiration Garden," 
laughed the weeder. "You see, I need 
it. My posies give me ideas and are 
often my models in my real business 
which, as you may guess, is' at the pot- 
teries. Some day, whimsically, these 
posies may bring me to honor." 

But noting his questioner's prepos- 
sessing appearance, "Pardon these per- 
sonalities, and may I inquire whom I 
have the honor of addressing ?" 



"John Wesley, at your service. I am 
one of the Lord's itinerating servants 
and am sent hither and yon with the 
message. This is my first visit to Burs- 
lem, and I should like to hold some meet- 
ings here." 

"Ah, sir, I have heard of you and it 
greatly delights me to offer you the hos- 
pitality of Ivy House." 

So began the life-long friendship of 
the Reverend John Wesley and Josiah 
Wedgwood, the potter. 

During Wesley's stay in Burslem, the 
two were often seen walking about the 
potteries, talking often, no doubt, of 
higher things than the vessels of clay 
that the young genius was fashioning; 
for is it not recorded that John Wesley 
said of his young friend : "His soul is 
very near to God." 

But Wedgwood's art was a source of 
great interest to the then unlaureled 
divine. 

"Of all your beautiful designs and 
graceful models," said he, "this little 
tea-pot pleases me most." 

"Ah!" replied Josiah, "you like that?" 

It was of blue and white ware in a 
checked design. 

"That design," said Wedgwood, with 
a gleam in his eye, "I copied from the 
blue gown of the sweetest little girl in 
the world." 

"Ah, ha! We have a little romance 
here, so?" 

Josiah would commit himself no fur- 
ther at that time; but four years later, 
after meeting the heavy financial re- 
quirements of a stern father-in-law, he 
brought to a new home, known as Brick 
House, his beautiful, clever, and amiable 
bride, and here they frequently enter- 
tained the Reverend John Wesley. 

"Sarah," the young husband said one 
day, "I want to give Mr. Wesley a gift 
the next time he comes. What would 
you suggest?" 
195 



196 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"He seems very fond of tea, Josiah, 
and very few people have teapots as yet, 
that beverage being a luxury with us, 
you know. Why not give him a pot for 
his cup of cheer?" 

"Just the thing, Sallie! And I have 
the picture of that teapot in my mind's 
eye this minute." 

Before long, John Wesley was the re- 
cipient of a specially designed blue and 
white checked teapot.* 

On one side, surrounded by a wreath 
of flowers, a reminder of Josiah's gar- 
den, was printed this blessing — 

'Be present at our table, Lord, 
Be here and everywhere ador'd, 
These creatures bless and grant that we 
May Feast in Paradise with Thee.' 

On the other side was the "return 
thanks", which Wesley had borrowed 
from the Moravians — 

'We thank Thee, Lord, for this our food. 
But more because of Jesus's blood. 
Let manna to our souls be given, 
The bread of Life sent down from Heaven.' 

Above the spout was painted a rose, 
for England, a thistle, to represent Scot- 
land, and the Irish shamrock. On the 
spout the three were grouped together 
to represent the United Kingdom. 

We like to think that the great father 
of Methodism often, thereafter, on his 
journeyings up and down the land, was 
revived in spirit and body by the friendly 
gift and its cheering contents. 

Shortly before his marriage, Josiah 
Wedgwood had, by virtue of his 
"posies," come to honor ; for one day, 
to the Ivy House Potteries, came a royal 
messenger from Her Majesty, Charlotte, 
Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, 
bearing a letter wherein she commanded 
that from thenceforth Wedgwood should 



sign himself, "Potter to Her Majesty." 

Sometime previously, Wedgwood had 
presented a candle and breakfast set, of 
his cream ware, to the Queen's eldest 
child, which so pleased the mother that 
she ordered a full set of the dishes for 
herself. 

These Wedgewood decorated with 
flowers, "tinted from nature," and 
named Queen's-ware ; hence the com- 
mand to be known as Royalty's potter. 

"And Josiah is worthy of it all," said 
Mrs. Wedgwood, in a conversation with 
Mr. Wesley. 

"He has never patented but one design 
or model because, as he says, it pleases 
me better to see thousands made happy 
and following in the same career, than 
it would to follow an exclusive employ- 
ment." 

"Yes, he is proving a benefactor, both 
materially and morally, to Burslem. 
True to the instinct of the artist, his 
love of the beautiful is becoming con- 
tagious and is showing forth in a neat 
and respectable community." 

"Oh! Have you noticed that, Mr. 
Wesley?" 

"Indeed, yes ! Will I ever forget the 
rain of bricks that greeted my first ef- 
forts here, Mrs. Wedgwood? And now, 
when I come, all is order and quietness. 
More than my preaching it has been my 
good friend's earnest practising that has 
wrought the change and has made the 
name 'Burslem potter', once synonymous 
with drunken riotousness, respected and 
honored throughout the land. I have 
always known that his soul was near to 
God," he added reverently. 

*A facsimile of this tea-pot is the property 
of the Methodist House at the Chautauqua 
Assembly, Chautauqua, N. Y. 



Dreams 



What would you do if you hadn't a dream 
Shining beyond like a star? 
What would you do were it not for the gleam, 
The brightness, the sweetness, the joy of that 

dream 
Which beckons and guides from afar? 



For your dreams are the wealth of your spirit, 

the goal. 
The ideal you long to attain. 
The radiant vision that gladdens your soul, 
The hope that illumines the years as they roll, 
And robs them of sorrow and pain. 

Christine Kerr Davis. 



The Last Bone in the Cupboard 



By Mabel S. Merrill 



OF course we all ought to wish 
that Lily Taylor will get it, be- 
cause she's so poor that she 
will have to leave school altogether next 
year if she doesn't," began Rosabel 
Winn, sitting on the bed in Jean Hunt- 
er's room. 

''Well, I'm not going to pretend that 
I wish anything of the sort," announced 
Cherry Pease bluntly. "Sylvia Clancy 
is the queen of our hearts and we're not 
a bit to blame for wanting her to have 
all the good things there are going. 
Besides, Lil Taylor is so insufferably 
peacocky over her success in domestic 
science it would do her more good to 
have the conceit taken out of her than 
to get that fat salar}\" 

''Don't be a little vixen, Cherry, dear," 
Rosabel spoke in that superior tone es- 
pecially disliked by the pugnacious lit- 
tle sophomore. "Sylvia doesn't need the 
salary that goes with the position, and 
she will remain queen of our hearts 
whether she is at the head of the domes- 
tic science department or not. Anyway, 
our wishes won't help nor hinder. It 
lies between those two and they'll have 
to fight it out." 

'T don't care !" muttered Cherry re- 
belliously. I'm going to hope Sylvia will 
win. If Lil gets it, she'll make us eat 
her French messes all next year and pre- 
tend to like them. We shall be dragged 
at the wheels of her domestic science 
chariot till we shan't know good old- 
fashioned victuals by sight." 

"She'll leave off the flourishes when 
she gets the feeding of the whole school 
on her hands. She's quite capable of 
managing the department. As for vic- 
tuals of the ordinary sort, my dears, 
you shall have some during the next two 
days. I'm glad my turn comes first be- 
fore your taste is spoiled with novel- 
ties." And Rosabel contentedly envel- 
oped herself in an immense bib apron as 



she started for the dormitory kitchen. 

The domestic science teacher at the 
Weymouth School for young ladies had 
resigned unexpectedly at the beginning 
of the spring vacation, and Miss Sin- 
clair, the principal of the school, had 
determined to fill her place with one of 
the advanced pupils in the domestic 
science course. There were six of them 
to choose from, and as a final test of 
fitness the principal had hit upon the 
plan of letting each one of the six run 
the house for two of the twelve days of 
vacation. Two days' supplies of staple 
articles were to be given out to each 
one, together with a fixed amount of 
credit at the grocery store, out of which 
must come the meat, fresh vegetables 
and butter required from day to day. 
Xine persons would remain at the dor- 
mitory during vacation and the new 
housekeepers must provide for any 
guests who might come during that time. 

"Guests are always a possibiHty, so 
any housekeeping scheme must allow for 
them," ]\Iiss Sinclair observed. "But 
no girl will be permitted on any condi- 
tion to exceed her two days credit at 
the store, and no one must use more than 
the supplies in her own cupboard — that 
IS, unless one of the other girls is able 
and willing to lend her a trifle out of 
her own stock. Now I shall leave you 
entirely to yourselves. I don't want to 
know anything that goes on in the 
kitchen for the next twelve days. 
Bridget and Katy are at your disposal, 
of course, but you girls are wholly 
responsible." 

Rosabel A\'inn was in charge of the 
house for the first two days, and ac- 
quitted herself fairly well, though she 
used up her allowance of sugar the first 
day, and the other three meals were 
somewhat lacking in sweetness. 

"Lucky if I don't do anything worse 
than that," sighed Cherry as she put on 



197 



198 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the big apron for her two days trial. 
"Nobody expects me to be a star, that's 
one comfort. It's Lil and Sylvia that 
will have the eyes of all Europe on them 
when it comes their turn." 

Cherry got through her two days in 
happy-go-lucky fashion, and Jean Hun- 
ter and Caroline Marks did very well, 
though Jean's second dinner lacked soup, 
and there was a dreadful sameness 
about Caroline's last meals, because she 
had been too lavish with her material 
for the first ones. 

''Well, nobody starved at any rate," 
she commented throwing away her 
apron with a long breath of relief. ''But 
I hope the other two girls will be warned 
by the fact that the rest of us hadn't a 
teaspoonful of supplies left in our cup- 
board when we got through. Lily Tay- 
lor is pretty sure to begin too big, and if 
she does the queen of our hearts may 
win after all." 

The first three meals that Lily served 
made her "famous in a night," so Cherry 
Pease declared. But on the morning of 
the second day Rosabel, going to the 
kitchen for a bit of ironing, found the 
temporar}^ head of the house staring in- 
to her cupboard as if it had been the 
closet containing the traditional skele- 
ton. 

"Rosabel!" began Lily rather sheep- 
ishly, "did any of you girls have a bit 
of sugar left over?" 

"Not a grain. It just seemed to evap- 
orate," confessed Rosabel. "It worried 
me to think of all you must have used 
in that cranberry flummery yesterday. 
You didn't need it, either, Lil, after that 
lovely pudding." 

"I wanted a nice dinner for Mrs. Shel- 
don-Sinclair. I know she has every- 
thing elegant at home and — and I think 
Miss Sinclair invited her to come just 
then because" — 

"Because she thought that you'd outdo 
the rest of us," finished Rosabel. "Well, 
you did, Lil, but I'm afraid you've got to 
pay for it. Your cupboard looks as 
bare as Mother Hubbard's. What else 
are you out of ?" 



"The flour is almost gone," admitted 
Lily nervously. "But the worst is the 
butter, Rosabel ! I've only a pinch left, 
all that cake-making and the steak for 
dinner took such a lot. I don't know 
what on earth to do. It wouldn't be so 
bad if only there wasn't a trustee com- 
ing to lunch and dinner." 

"My stars, Lil, you are in a scrape! 
I wish I could do something for you, but 
there isn't a thing. Why, you poor 
child !" 

Rosabel's face was full of dismay as 
the would-be head of the" domestic sci- 
ence department crumpled down on the 
empty sugar box and burst into tears. 

"I — I wouldn't mind starving a trus- 
tee!" sobbed Lily, "but you — you know, 
it will lose me the position, and I did 
want it so much." 

Rosabel tried in vain to comfort the 
discouraged housekeeper, and at last she 
went back to Cherry's room to consult 
with the other five girls as to whether 
anything could be done to help Lily. 
The final verdict was that help was im- 
possible and that the star of the domestic 
science course would have to take the 
consequences of her own recklessness. 
Nobody noticed that Sylvia Clancy 
slipped out in the midst of the chatter 
and did not come back. 

"I guess this competition has accom- 
plished one good thing," snapped Cherry 
Pease. "It has taken the gas out of Lil 
Taylor's balloon. She's going to come 
down headfirst in a heap of wreckage." 

Sylvia's absence was hardly noticed 
for once, and nobody thought to ask 
where she had gone. The other four 
girls filed out to luncheon in some un- 
easiness. It was an awkward time for 
a famine, as Cherry observed. Nobody 
wanted a breakdown in the housekeep- 
ing while the domestic science pupils 
w^ere in charge. 

To everybody's surprise, however, the 
luncheon was good and the dinner such 
a success that Miss Sinclair warmly 
complimented Lily on her two days' 
work. 

"The balloon will be filling up again 



THE LAST BONE IN THE CUPBOARD 



199 



at this rate," muttered Cherry. "How 
on earth do you suppose she managed 
it with her cupboard as bare as you 
said?" 

Nobody could answer this question, 
but on the second morning of what 
Cherry called the reign of the queen of 
their hearts the mystery was solved. 

"Girls !" Cherry burst into Rosabel's 
room where Jean and Caroline were 
making an early call. "I've found out 
all about it. Sylvia went and gave half 
her sugar to Lily that day just to help 
her out of the scrape. And then she 
gave her flour and all sorts of things, 
right out of her own supplies that were 
stacked up in her cupboard ready for 
her to begin on when her own turn came. 
But of course butter was the worst puz- 
zle for Lil, because that has to be 
bought out of the credit at the store and 
she hadn't any credit left. But the 
queen of hearts had all of hers un- 
touched, so what does she do but buy 
in advance double her allowance of but- 
ter and give half of it to Lil. Of course, 
in order to do that, Sylvia had to cut 
herself down on meat or vegetables, so 
she hasn't got a thing for dinner today 
but a great soup bone. She's all out of 
sugar, and flour is scant, and who do 
you suppose is coming to dinner — Dr. 
Carroll, the revered and aristocratic 
founder of this school! Sylvia didn't 
find it out till this minute, or she would 
have known better than to give away 
everything down to the last bone in the 
cupboard." 

"I'm not so sure she wouldn't have 
done it just the same if she had known," 
cried Rosabel warmly. "Don't you see, 
Lil's getting the position depended upon 
her not making a fizzle of it her last day, 
and Sylvia knew it, so she was just de- 
termined not to let her fail. Miss Sin- 
clair will think Sylvia a failure and Lily 
will get the place." 

"She shan't have the place." Excit- 
able Cherry sprang to her feet indig- 
nantly. "Anyway, Sylvia shan't be dis- 
graced before Dr. Carroll, and made to 
look like a fool! Somebody has got to 



tell Miss Sinclair how it was. Oh, yes, 
I know what you think of a telltale, but 
I don't care. It isn't right to keep it 
from Miss Sinclair, because anyone that 
can't manage better than Lily Taylor did 
those last three meals isn't fit to take 
charge of the house next year." 

"Do be quiet. Cherry," coaxed Rosa- 
bel. "You'll stir up a real fuss if you 
don't take care. You know as well as 
I do that Lily is fit for the position. She 
won't make any more mistakes like those 
the other day. She was only trying to 
show off." 

"That's just what makes me so mad," 
retorted Cherry. "Girls, are we going 
to let our queen of hearts be disgraced 
and laughed at because she can't feed 
a founder after giving away all she had 
in charity except one bone? She'll 
shoulder the whole blame of the failure 
and never say a word to explain to Miss 
Sinclair how there happened to be no 
dinner. Don't you see that something 
has got to be done?" 

There was a lively discussion for a 
moment (bystanders might have called 
it a wrangle), but it did not end in 
Cherry's appealing to the principal. In- 
stead the four girls — Lily was spending 
the day out — went to the kitchen to offer 
such help and advice as Sylvia could be 
induced to accept. 

That evening Rosabel and Cherry 
headed the little procession of girls to 
the dining-room. Miss Sinclair and the 
distinguished guest were leading the 
way and impatient Cherry was trying 
not to tread on the great man's heels, 
when Lily Taylor came hurrying after 
them. 

"Rosabel — Cherry, wait a minute!" 
she implored in a whisper. "Oh, when 
did he come?" — pointing at the doctor's 
vanishing back. "I've been away all day 
and didn't know till this minute. And — 
and there isn't a thing for dinner — not 
a thing! — unless Sylvia told Miss Sin- 
clair and asked her to help." 

"Oh, you needn't worry about that," 
retorted Cherry scornfully. "The queen 
of our hearts wouldn't do such a trick. 



200 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



It would have been giving you away en- 
tirely because Miss Sinclair would have 
made her explain all about lending you 
everything in her cupboard. Sylvia 
never gives anybody away; she'd rather 
suffer herself." And the relentless 
sophomore pulled her partner by main 
force into the dining-room in spite of 
Rosabel's evident desire to say a word 
of comfort to Lily. 

The table they gathered around was a 
surprise even to the girls who had been 
helping the queen of their hearts all the 
afternoon. It was charmingly adorned 
with flowers and Sylvia beamed at them 
from her place as if she had not a care 
in the world. 

The dinner began with soup so deli- 
cately flavored and seasoned that an ac- 
complished cook might have been proud 
of it. The soup of course had been pro- 
vided by that solitary bone Cherry had 
so feelingly described. There was no 
meat ; the double allowance of butter or- 
dered beforehand to help Lily out of her 
trouble had used up all the credit at the 
store. But there was nut-loaf beauti- 
fully garnished, and potato croquettes 
that were really a masterpiece. Dessert 
was only sweet-apple sauce — v\'hole 
quarters cooked to amber clearness with 
the last remant of sugar scraped out of 
the box — and twisted molasses dough- 
nuts, fresh and crisp. There had not 
been flour enough for bread or rolls, so 
Sylvia had made popovers which she 
said were ''mostly air" but would pass. 



Miss Sinclair was plainly dismayed, at 
first, by the extreme simplicity of the 
meal set before such an honored guest, 
but her face lightened at his evident en- 
joyment of everything from soup to 
doughnuts. 

'Tt's all right," whispered Rosabel 
consolingly to Lily. "Sylvia's cooking 
has saved the day. It isn't a dinner to 
be ashamed of. That girl could get up 
a banquet out of dried peas and salt 
codfish. She did it all herself — she 
wouldn't trust a thing to Katy or Brid- 
get — and we stood by and helped her." 

''Only a genius could have made all 
this out of the last bone in the cup- 
board," observed Cherry to Jean across 
the table. 

Dr. Carroll had heard all about the 
pupils in domestic science being in 
charge of the house, and he looked up 
with an interested twinkle. 

"Sounds almost as if there had been 
a famine in the kitchen," he remarked 
to his hostess. 

There was sudden inquiry in the look 
Miss Sinclair turned upon the girls, and 
for a moment Rosabel feared that 
Cherry's speech would lead to an investi- 
gation that might undo the effect of 
Sylvia's friendly sacrifice. But Cherry 
herself rose to the occasion. 

"Oh, that's only a school parable, Dr. 
Carroll," she explained blandly. "You 
see the last bone in the cupboard was the 
bone of contention, and the queen of our 
hearts made it into soup !" 



R 



eiigion of Laughter 



It is better laughing than crying, 
However the world go by! 

Though the laughing be only lying, 

It is better laughing than crying; 

So laugh — it is well worth trying — 
Though a teardrop burn in the eye ! 

It is better laughing than crying, 
However the world go by ! 



H life with the bitter be brimmed, 

It still may shine in the sun, 
In the heart the heavens be limned ! 
If life with the bitter be brimmed, 
Oh, then should sparkle, undimmed, 

Brave mirth that to sweetness can run! 
If life with the bitter be brimmed, 

It still may shine in the sun! 

Stokely S. Fisher. 



Guests of Monsieur and Madame 



By Martha O. Howes 



WE had been to Paris several 
times, sister Arxne and I, in the 
conventional American way, 
stopping at hotels full to the brim with 
tourists, also American for the most 
part, where the table d'hote was pre- 
cisely like a thousand others, and the 
conversation savored insistently of 
French lingerie. 

But this time, with adventure in our 
hearts, we were ascending in a tiny cage, 
built for two, to the sixth floor of a big, 
commercial-looking granite building in 
the heart of the city, in response to an 
invitation to visit, yes, actually visit, the 
family of Mile. Morin, teacher of lan- 
guages in our home town. There was 
the name on a shining brass plate as we 
stepped out on the tiny landing of the 
spiral staircase, and behind the door lay 
all the mysteries of a French flat, all the 
delightful intimacies of the French fam- 
ily we had longed to know. The bell 
I summoned a white-aproned Marie, 
' closely followed by Mme. Ernestine, 
i gushing a voluble and bewildering lan- 
guage, who kissed us twice on both 
cheeks and held our hands as she chat- 
tered a welcome, readily responded to by 
Sister Anne, who has an amazing zest 
for languages, but utterly unintelligible 
to me, who in spite of frequent wander- 
ings through France have acquired but 
a single sentence, ''voiilez vous ap porter 
de I'eau chaude", the article of stern 
necessity. A very white and very woolly 
little dog, looking as if he belonged on 
the shelf of a toy-shop, accorded us a 
welcome nothing short of Madame's in 
its vociferous quality, and when from a 
distance a harsh, strident call of 
"Maman", Maman", augmented the 
clamor, we were glad that neither of us 
suffered from nerves. Through double 
glass doors which led into the salon, we 
could look beyond to a narrow outer 
balcony, where, upon his perch, sat a 



magnificent blue and green parrot, with 
a long, sweeping tail. So desirous was 
he of joining in the excitement, that his 
shrieks became deafening, whereupon 
Madame rushed to him, cuffed and 
slapped him, and scolding shrilly car- 
ried him away to the regions of the 
kitchen. We thought of our American 
societies for the suppression of noise, 
and drew a breath of relief in the mo- 
ment's pause before back ran Madame to 
conduct us to our chamber, a large 
apartment next the salon on the front 
of the building. Long windows opened 
onto the balcony and down below flowed 
the busy life of Paris — the perpetual 
honk of the taxi-cab, darting hither and 
thither, day and night, in bewildering 
repetition, — the soft pad of horses' hoofs 
on the asphalt as the never-failing fiacre 
rolled along, — the cries of vendors and 
the ceaseless throng of people — one had 
but to step out and lean upon the iron 
rail to feel the throb of the big city. 

But our first impression was not of 
Paris, nor of anything save the all-per- 
vading crimson hue which compassed us. 
The huge double bed was literally buried 
under a crimson satin cover, stretching 
from head to foot, the chairs, including 
two large ones, were covered in crimson 
damask, and a brocaded velvet table 
cover of the same tone overflowed upon 
the floor. A football enthusiast, after a 
Har^-ard victory, might have slept hap- 
pily 'mid these surroundings, the only 
other extenuating circumstances were 
ours, a desire for ''atmosphere" and its 
gratification. "Let us pray that it will 
not be hot", murmured Sister Anne, as 
she prepared for dinner with the aid of 
a red-bordered towel, ''no one could live 
in this room on a hot day". And fortu- 
nately, though it was July, it was not 
hot. 

It was nearly eight o'clock, when 
Madame summoned us to dinner, and 



201 



202 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



we passed through the decorated glass 
doors of the salon, where we were 
greeted by Monsieur Moriri, a fine- 
looking gentleman with a white mous- 
tache and imperial, and very elaborate 
and courteous manners. He had at his 
command at least a dozen English 
words, with which he carried on an 
amusing, if fragmentary, conversation 
with rhe upon our introduction. Having 
no use for hot water, I was confined to 
the language of the eyes, aided by a 
smile here and a bow there, but al- 
though such intercourse may be agree- 
able enough, an expression of infinite 
relief and pleasure lighted his face at the 
sound of Sister Anne's fluent and per- 
fect French. In the salon was more 
crimson damask, upon which the white 
and fluflfy Pierrot posed effectively. A 
piano about which were grouped several 
palms, which wilted not nor withered, 
occupied one corner, a glass cabinet of 
bric-a-brac, several small ornate tables 
and family portraits, went to make up 
what we would call at home a simply 
impossible room, but which we found 
afforded Madame Ernestine supreme 
satisfaction. This room opened with 
long, curtained windows upon the bal- 
cony., as did also the adjoining Salle-a- 
manger, a small room completely filled 
by a dining table and a heavy walnut 
sideboard. The particular glory of this 
room was a silver centrepiece, which al- 
ternated between these two articles of 
furniture, decorating the table at meals, 
and the sideboard between meals ; four 
cupids on tip-toe, supported above their 
heads a heavy salver filled usually with 
seasonable fruits. "Pure coin," said 
Madame, in an impressive undertone, 
"presented long ago to Monsieur in 
recognition of bravery." 

The dinner was excellent, and after a 
long sojourn in hotels, refreshing in its 
simplicity and abundance. There was 
soup, containing bread and grated 
cheese, chicken and string beans, which 
contained some magic, for they were un- 
-ike any string beans produced in Amer- 
ica, a salad, and big, ripe raspberries, 



combined with cream cheese. The elec- 
tric bell connecting with the kitchen, 
depended from a hanging lamp above 
the table by a cord, and was of orna- 
mental china. Madame sat with this al- 
most constantly in her hand, and every 
few minutes Marie came running from 
the kitchen and there ensued lively con- 
versation between mistress and maid. It 
was evident that silent service was not 
a requirement of French households. 
Several times during that first dinner I 
was certain that Marie had been sum- 
marily discharged, only to be reassured 
by Sister Anne that Madame was but 
directing that the vegetables be kept hot 
or that the salts be refilled. Monsieur 
was so delighted with Sister Ann's fluent 
French that he quite forgot me after he 
had poured the wine, and Madame 
struggled with my entertainment ; plac- 
ing a finger on my dress and my rings, 
saying "pretty," and laughing immod- 
erately at her English all the time. Then 
she would suddenly remember her re- 
sponsibilities, Marie would be summoned 
by an energetic push of the button, and 
volleys of rapid French would pour 
forth, Pierrot often joining from be- 
hind the salon door, with Coco, the par- 
rot, screaming just outside the window. 
It was a lively meal, even for a listener 
like me. 

After dinner we went to the salon, 
where Sister Anne and I sat on a fiery 
davenport and listened to gay French 
songs by Madame at the piano under 
the palms, and Monsieur walked up and 
down outside the windows, smoking his 
pipe above the heads of Paris. Madame 
bade us "bonne nuit" again and yet 
again, flying in to see if we were com- 
fortable, with sidelong and interested 
looks at our unpacking. We gladly sub- 
mitted our American clothes to her 
eager scrutiny, and compared prices with 
avidity. She offered to go shopping with 
us and expressed great disdain for the 
places recommended by our ship-mates. 
Future experience proved that she had 
the French woman's instinct for trade, 
for we got more for our money under 



GUESTS OF MONSIEUR AND MADAME 



203 



her guidance from little shops round the 
corner than ever we had done before. 
We rested undisturbed, though through 
the open windows Paris might be heard, 
keeping it up until the small hours. Only 
a short space intervenes between the 
pleasure lover's retreat and the bread- 
winner's advance. 

At eight came Marie with our tray, a 
t pot of steaming hot chocolate, and crisp, 
warm, crusty rolls and butter. There 
was nothing for it but to breakfast off 
the brocaded velvet cloth, so we spread 
down our serviettes and had a good 
leisurely time in negligee and slippers 
over the letters which were sent in on 
the tray. 

About ten, Madame announced her- 
self ready for the business of our enter- 
tainment. She rapped on our door and 
showed herself gowned for the street in 
a modish black silk, feather boa, spotted 
veil and white gloves, to which our own 
light-colored dresses and panama hats 
presented quite a contrast. We per- 
suaded her to walk along the Boule- 
vards, where everything was of interest 
to^ us, instead of stepping at once into a 
taxi, as she was accustomed, and we 
made slow progress, so many and daz- 
zling was the display of gems and bau- 
bles, particularly designed for the female 
of the species. Madame kept us darting 
across the street, from one point of in- 
terest to another; with unerring skill she 
plunged into the sea of traffic which 
surges up and down the Boulevards all 
day long, at least one of us trembling and 
panic-stricken, but meekly following. 
Lifting my scant skirt with both hands 
and sending anxious glances in as many 
directions as possible, with palpitating 
heart, I would scud terrified along, the 
whole vista of madly moving vehicles 
thundering down upon me. Motors by 
the hundreds, huge motor 'buses, pond- 
erous horse-drawn 'buses, swift multi- 
tudinous taxis, all driven by creatures 
blind to the sacredness of human life. 
"The streets are made for us", they cry, 
and puny mortals, especially Americans, 
beware. My thoughts returned to the 



land of the free, and that mighty man, 
the Fifth Avenue policeman, who has 
but to lift a finger, and fair dames pass 
happily on, careless and unafraid. Alas 
for French chivalry, it is not picked up 
in the streets. What can be more rest- 
ful after many stormy crossings than 
to sink contented, safe at last, into the 
ever waiting taxi, and become ourselves 
one of the heartless destroyers. This 
is what we invariably did, sooner or 
later, three on a seat, getting the most 
.for our money. It was great fun driv- 
ing in the thick of the crowd, careless 
of where you went, content to keep on 
indefinitely, if it were not for the peace- 
destroying metre, jumping up the francs 
before your very eyes. On these expe- 
ditions among the boulevards, we 
lunched at Patisseries, for we could 
never get enough of the fascinating little 
cakes displayed in such places. The 
windows rivaled the jewelers' and in- 
deed they were gems of the culinary art. 
The sophisticated enter the shop, smile 
at the buxom madame in the cashier's 
cage, pick up a plate and a fork, always 
at hand for the purpose, and begin a 
distracting tour of the windows. The 
choice between a green-frosted heart, 
with raisin filling, and a pyramid of 
fluff adorned with raspberries, involved 
painful indecision. We were all for art, 
but Madame usually selected a minia- 
ture plum pudding soaked in rum, and 
the brioche of national fame. With our 
spoils we would return to a tiny round 
table, order a pot of tea or chocolate, and 
devour our creations to the minutest 
crumb. A waitress, trusting to our 
honor, would inquire how many we had 
eaten, and slipping the change through 
the bars of Madame's cage, we regret- 
fully closed the door. 

There were days when we visited the 
galleries and sights of Paris as well- 
conducted Americans must, but we liked 
best the afternoon rides in the Bois de 
Boulogne, where we would ride for a 
long time through the green wood, past 
tea houses and tiny lakes with merry 
picnic parties along the shores ; winding 



204 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



in sunlight and shadow along the fine 
roads and out again onto the Champs 
Elysee, with its afternoon crowd, and 
home through the great, open squares. 

We dined once or twice at famous 
Cafes on the Boulevard, Monsieur in 
evening clothes and tall hat, Madame in 
low-cut black lace, with artificial flow- 
ers and a great deal of powder; for, as 
she said, "If you are not young, you 
must pretend to be." Even Sister Anne 
shrouded her dignity in pink chiffon on 
these occasions, and I held my head very 
high under a white feather hat, newly 
purchased at a famous shop. The food 
at these places was invariably good ; the 
sole being a great delicacy, served with 
indescribable sauces, but the service was 
far from pleasing, and would never be 
tolerated in America. Sister Anne said 
to Monsieur that she supposed that 
French ladies smoked in public without 
criticism, but he held up horrified hands, 
shaking his head emphatically as if no 
denial could be vehement enough. "Not 
ladies, no, no" ! And if I had treasured 
a hope that a mild adventure of this 
sort might be carried back to my friends, 
I straightway buried it and looked de- 
mure at once. 

On the whole, we preferred dining at 
Madame's table, for the food was de- 
licious, and we always sat down in an- 
ticipation of some surprise. Marie 
would bring on a big, pufTy, golden- 
brown cheese souffle, or a huge dish of 
potatoes fried in olive oil and thin as 
slivers; whatever it was, it was always 
a bit better than the last. We were in- 
terested to hear that a "bonne's" first 
question, when seeking an engagement 
is, "Does Madame do her own market- 
ing"? If so, she shrugs her shoulders 



and is indiflferent to the place; for she 
looks for substantial commission from 
dealers, and the larger the order the 
greater her advantage, an arrangement 
which goes far toward obviating the 
objection to large families. A compe- 
tent cook like Marie can be had for 
sixty francs a month, provided Madame 
does not go to market. 

Inexorable time at last parted us from 
the Moriiis, and very early one bright 
morning we breakfasted sadly for the 
last time on the brocaded velvet cover. 
Our trunks and bags were already be- 
low, and Monsieur and Madame were 
bustling about preparing to see us off 
for Switzerland. The last moment came, 
Marie cried. Coco screamed, Pierrot 
barked, and Monsieur and Madame 
clamored farewells, keeping pace with 
us down the spiral stairs, as we dropped 
slowly in the cage. At the curb two 
taxis were waiting, Monsieur and Sister 
Anne, with luggage piled about the 
driver's knees, sped away in one, while 
Madame and I, with more luggage, and 
a huge hatbox holding my Paris hat, 
followed. It was early and we rattled 
along at a furious pace clear across 
Paris to the Gare de Lyon, where we 
arrived in time for an exhausting half 
hour of farewells, Monsieur standing 
uncovered on the platform, Madame 
every now and then climbing into the 
carriage to kiss first one and then the 
other twice on each cheek. 

As we moved slowly out, at last, lean- 
ing from the corridor window, with fly- 
ing handkerchiefs, I found that I needed 
mine in this moment of parting with 
these new friends with whom I had 
never exchanged a single comprehensive 
sentence. 




The Resourcefulness of Nina 



By Bertha F. Seymour 



OH-H-H Dear!" It was my wife, 
.and the accents were those of 
disappointment, changing to 
those of vexation, and when I looked 
over her shoulder at the ''sponge" in the 
bread pan, I didn't need to ask questions. 
It seemed even smaller than when we 
bade good-night to it, and clammy! no 
name for it! 

"I must have scalded the yeast," she 
mourned. 

"No doubt of it," I rejoined in dis- 
gust; though I didn't know but that 
you had to, to make bread. "Pretty 
expensive present for somebody else's 
pigs. A whole quart of milk besides the 
flour and yeast, and, and, — " I floun- 
dered. 

"Especially the yeast." It looked 
very much like salt water in my wife's 
eyes, but is was alum and vinegar in 
her voice. Evidently she did not appre- 
ciate the brand of sympathy I was offer- 
ing her. But the more I thought of it, 
the more disgusted I felt. The night 
before I had arrived at our suburban 
home minus the yeast cake and had been 
informed, pointedly, that the extra milk 
was ordered and that supper would not 
be served for half an hour, the time I 
would need to go to the nearest store to 
procure it and return. I understood, and 
rather than put in the half hour listening 
to a lecture on heedlessness, I went. It 
was stormy and disagreeably cold, but 
I'd forgotten yeast cakes before, so 
there was no help for it. But I wasn't 
especially good-natured about it, and 
now!— she had "killed" the plaguey 
thing and spoiled a batch of bread. 
Wouldn't any man be disgusted? 

"I hadn't said the pigs would get it, — 
that is, anybody else's." 

"Well, we don't keep any pigs," I 
began. 

"No, we don't, "my wife replied, 
softly. "But I sometimes think / do." 



"You are early for the office," for I was 
making for the door. 

"That's all right," I rejoined. "You 
spoiled the bread and you can eat it. 
I will not eat one mouthful of it." 

It was a rash speech, the child of a 
quickly roused, quickly subdued temper, 
and as soon as I had said it I regretted 
it. I never intend to say "I won't" to 
the lady of my choice. It makes trouble 
for me. But my wife smiled as she 
bade me good-bye. 

Arriving at the office with ten min- 
utes to spare, I called up my mother 
about it. I wanted her advice just as 
I used to when I'd talked too much to 
somebody bigger and got my nose 
punched or been warned to keep shady. 
She shook her head at me verbally, as 
I had expected, but appeared to sympa- 
thize. "But I've said it and so of course 
I am not going to, and what I want to 
know is what I am to do." 

Buy a loaf of baker's bread on your 
way home to-night," she advised. "Don't 
get another yeast cake, because to-mor- 
row's Sunday," and with a laugh, "Be- 
ware of bread puddings," and then the 
receiver clicked into my "Thank you." 

There is only one kind of baker's 
bread made in the city that Nina will 
eat, and I had to go considerably out of 
my way home to get it, but I got it 
and put it in a conspicuous place. We 
had the usual brown bread and beans 
for supper and cottage pudding for des- 
sert. The beans were just right and 
the brown bread, always good, was 
especially moist and nice tonight. The 
cottage pudding was delicious; and not 
a word of the "ruined hope," as I had 
nicknamed the spoiled bread for my 
own personal amusement. 

After supper being somewhat re- 
morseful, because I had allowed my 
hasty temper to add to Nina's troubles, 

( Continued 07i page 2j8.) 

205 



206 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
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So great is the effect of cleanliness 
upon man that it extends even to his 
moral character. Virtue never dwelt 
long with filth ; nor do I believe there 
ever was a person scrupulously atten- 
tive to cleanliness who was a consum- 
mate villain. — Rumford. 



A visitor to a hotel in a provincial 
town in England was shown up to his 
bedroom by the "boots." Wishing to 
know what the outlook from the win- 
dow was, he asked, "Does this window 
face north, south, east, or west?" The 
reply came quickly: "Neither, sir; it 
faces the back." 



NEW YET OLD 

THOUGH we bear a new name on 
our cover-page, which bids fair to 
be helpful from a business point of view, 
we wish to impress our readers with the 
fact that the character and policy of this 
publication has not been changed one jot 
or tittle. This is strictly and specifically 
a culinary publication. Everything that 
pertains to food-stuffs, food values, the 
simplest and best-approved ways and 
means of preparing and serving foods is 
made the subject of special concern to 
this journal. 

Our policy rests on a course of reason- 
ing something like this : Health is of 
prime importance to any considerable 
degree of success and happiness in life, 
and health, uniform and sustained, is 
vitally dependent on diet. Hence a wide 
knowledge of food and feeding and its 
functions is quite essential to wholesome, 
successful living. The welfare of indi- 
viduals and races is subject to their 
food-supply, or the manner in which 
they are fed. 

Plain, wholesome dishes, prudent, eco- 
nomical ways and means in housekeep- 
ing, then, are the subjects least neglected 
in these pages. And, it seems to us, the 
food question is becoming, daily, of 
greater and more fundamental signifi- 
cance than ever before. Ruskin says 
somewhere: "First feed people, then 
clothe and house people, then please 
them with art," etc. Notice how feed- 
ing is put first in importance. And as 
time goes by and knowledge comes the 
problem of proper feeding holds still first 
place in all matters of economy and gov- 
ernment throughout the world. 

There are those who would eliminate 
from the household work, as far as 
possible, and especially the so-called 
drudgery of housekeeping. We also be- 
lieve in labor-saving, and would elimi- 
nate from the home all unnecessary 
work, but, at the same time, we do not 
desire to take our meals in the household 
where no attention is given to the work 
done therein, and little interest is taken 



EDITORIALS 



207 



in the details of the housekeeping. Other 
things being equal, we take it, that is the 
best home, as well as the most pleas- 
ant, in which wholesome and satisfactory 
meals are served. Household manage- 
ment is no trivial matter; it is fraught 
with far-reaching results. Here, as in 
other affairs, nothing can be well done 
without concentrated thought and effort. 

THE WAR CLOUD 

THE terrible conflict now raging in 
Europe overshadows the whole 
earth. War shatters so many hopes and 
ideals; it is a calamity to all mankind. 
What has become of our boasted Chris- 
tian civilization? In the mad struggle 
for dominion, the spirit of common 
brotherhood and the practice of the 
golden rule are entirely ignored. What 
do the Gospels teach, if not peace among 
mankind? "Blessed are the peacemak- 
ers." 

To us the present war in no wise 
seems justifiable. The only war that can 
be justified is that of self-defence. By 
instinct people must and will defend 
their own lives and lawful possessions. 
Life is dear to every living thing, and, 
in case of peril, it must be self-guarded. 
Individuals and nations are slow to 
learn how to live and let live. And yet 
no other mode of conduct or procedure 
can be made to appear just or commend- 
able. What we want, right here and now, 
on earth is justice, — that right prevail 
and justice be done alike to great and 
small, the weak as well as the strong. 
How far the vision of the ancient 
prophet of Israel seems from realization ! 
Then they "shall beat their swords into 
ploughshares, and their spears into prun- 
ing-hooks, nations shall not lift up sword 
against nation, neither shall they learn 
war any more." 

In Sunshiny Weather 

"For he sometimes in sunshiny weath- 
er fell into fits." 

This quaint observation of Bunyan, 
interjected into the account of the terri- 



ble Giant Despair, does much to enliven 
the spirits of the sympathetic reader. 
Christian and Hopeful were in a very 
sad plight. Doubting Castle was a gloomy 
stronghold. Its iron gates were heavy; 
and, as Christian afterward discovered, 
"the lock went damnably hard." In fact, 
there seemed no way of escape from the 
clutches of the surly, old giant. That 
which first made them pluck up courage 
was the chance discovery that, grim and 
big as he was, he was subject to a con- 
stitutional weakness. The fact was that 
Giant Despair had fits. 

Now a giant who has fits, however 
vigilant he may be, cannot make a good 
jailer. It would be strange if, with their 
stout hearts and clear heads, they could 
not outwit their epileptic keeper. "Let 
us consider," said Hopeful, "that all the 
law is not with Giant Despair. Who 
knows but that he may in a short time 
have another of his fits, and may lose 
the use of his limbs? and, if ever that 
should come to pass again, for my part, 
I am resolved to pluck up the heart of a 
man, and to try my utmost to get from 
under his hand. I was a fool I did not 
try to do it before." 

The sun which shines on the just and 
the unjust shone also on Doubting Castle, 
investing it with a radiance like that of 
the Delectable Mountains. There were 
perfect days, now and then, when the 
sky was so blue and the air so full of life 
that it was very hard to maintain a con- 
sistent gloom. Even giants can't stand 
everything; there's a limit to their endu- 
rance. There was a period of sunshiny 
weather that was too much for Giant 
Despair. He felt his strength suddenly 
failing him, and he fell to the ground 
in an uncontrollable fit of cheerfulness. 

Poor old Giant Despair ! What availed 
his castle and his stout club and all the 
conveniences for unmitigated despond- 
ency? His gloom-producing devices were 
of the most approved construction. But, 
alas ! there were moments when the hand 
that controlled them lost its cunning. At 
such times, in spite of the utmost effort 



208 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of his will, he could not take himself 
quite seriously, and the world did not 
seem more than half bad. There was 
danger in these "often infirmities." What 
if he should catch sight of his own face 
in a glass, and find his grimaces more 
amusing than terrifying, and should 
laugh outright as he discovered what an 
old humbug he was ! Then it would be 
all up with Giant Despair, and Doubting 
Castle would vanish instantly. 

It was humiliating that, with all his 
huge bulk, he should be the victim of the 
"cosmic weather," — and good weather at 
that! His philosophy had been the re- 
sult of much painful ratiocination. He 
had proved by a variety of syllogisms 
that this is the worst posible world, and 
that the chief end of man is to find out 
how bad it is, and so make himself mis- 
erable forever. So long as he stayed in- 
doors, this philosophy seemed unassail- 
able; and, when he went down into the 
dungeon of Doubting Castle, it seemed 
the last word of wisdom. Not a fact 
could he there find to contradict it. But, 
when he went out into the sunshine, he 
could hear Nature shrieking with laugh- 
ter against his creed. A plague on the 
sunshiny weather! — Samuel M. Cr others 
in Christian Register. 



A man walking down the street one 
day complained to a policeman, being 
near-sighted, of an ill-looking fellow 
who persisted in following him. The 
officer smilingly pointed out to him 
that it was his own shadow. Carlyle 
must have been thinking of this inci- 
dent when he wrote : "There is always 
a black spot in our sunshine. It is 
even the shadow of ourselves." 

The greatest men of the world have 
been cheerful, optimistic, full of a keen 
enjoyment of life. Lady Montague 
said of Henry Fielding, burdened with 
bodily suffering, debt, and every spe- 
cies of difficulty, that she believed 
that, by reason of his habit of mind, 
he had enjoyed more happy moments 
than any person on earth. Sydney 



Smith once wrote to a friend, "I have 
gout, asthma, and seven other mala- 
dies, but am otherwise very well." 

The banker-poet Rogers delighted 
to tell of a little girl, a great favorite 
of his, who, upon being asked one day 
why everybody loved her, replied, 
after a moment of hesitation and with 
the utmost simplicity, "Well, I sup- 
pose that is because I love everybody." 
What a profound philosophy ! For, as 
has been said, "our happiness will be 
in proportion to the number of things 
we love and the number of things that 
love us." It is the real secret of cheer- 
fulness, — to love, to cultivate the 
affections, to increase constantly the 
warmth of the heart. Without that 
"flowers bloom in vain, marvels of 
heaven and earth pass unnoticed, and 
creation is a dreary, lifeless, soulless 
blank." — The Christian Life. 



THE CALL OF THE PEN 

I want to write some poetry 
And some fiction stories, too, 
But when I'm in the mood to write 
There's something else to do ; 
And just when I've got the idea 
That the magazines would buy, 
Before it's down on paper 
I'm compelled to heave a sigh 
And go where duty 'waits me, 
Or do some other thing 
That jars the inspiration 
When my muse attempts to sing. 

For in the meantime folks get hungry 

And positively refuse 

To wait while I write poems 

And entertain the muse; 

But truly, since the great ones 

Had this same experience, too, 

Can the would-be-great escape it, 

And arrive with trials few? 

L' Envoi — 

Perhaps the work's intended 
To restrain the overbold, 
Lest our ideas might get bigger 
Than the magazines could hold. 

S. S. Martin 




STANDING RIB ROAST 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Beef Soup from Remnants of 
Roast Beef 

REMOX'E edible portions from a 
twelve-pound roast, break up the 
bones and set them in a soup 
kettle with all unedible portions of the 
meat and cover with cold water; add 
about one pound of raw meat, flank 
ends of steak or chops or a knuckle of 
veal with a little raw meat attached. 
If available, add giblets and skinned 
feet of chickens, cover and let simmer 
very slowly two or three hours ; add one 
can of tomatoes (or a quart of fresh 
ones), three onions (in slices), with six 
cloves pressed into them, the outside 
stalks of two heads (not bunches) of 
celery, four or five branches of parsley, 
one-half a cup of dried mushrooms 
soaked in cold water (use water and 
mushrooms) and a red or green pepper 
cut in shreds. Let cook three-fourths 
an hour, then strain, pressing out all the 
liquid possible. The next dav remove 



the fat, very carefully, reheat, season 
with salt and add cooked noodles or 
macaroni. If desired add two table- 
spoonfuls of potato flour or cornstarch, 
smoothed in cold water. For a higher 
flavor add Worcestershire sauce. Chili 
sauce, or tomato catsup, as desired. 

Standing Rib Roast 

To serve twenty-five people a roast 
weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds 
will be required. Rub over the outside 
with salt and flour ; set to cook, on a 
rack, in a pan a little larger than the 
meat, in a hot oven. Turn the meat to 
sear over the whole outside surface, 
then lower the heat. Baste every ten or 
fifteen minutes with the fat in the pan. 
Dredge with flour after each basting. 
Finish cooking with the fat side of the 
meat upwards, as this will be upper- 
most on the platter. Cook about two 
hours, less rather than a longer time. 
Do not have strong heat, to burn the fat 
in the pan. 



209 



210 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Sauce for Roast Beef 

Pour off the fat from the baking-pan ; 
add two or three cups of broth or boil- 
ing water to the pan and stir and cook 
to dissolve the burned flour and meat 
juice adhering to the pan. In a sauce- 
pan take five tablespoonfuls of the 
dripping or fat ; add three rounding 
tablespoonfuls of flour and a scant tea- 
spoonful of salt ; stir until frothy, then 
add half a cup of cold water or broth 
and, finally, the broth in the dripping 
pan and stir until smooth and boiling. 
Strain if necessary. 



sauce ; 
Ijcaten 



finish 
esTRs. 



with two or three well- 



Xoodles 

Beat two eggs slightly ; add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and stir in 
flour to make a dough that may be 
kneaded without sticking. Knead the 
dough fifteen to twenty minutes, then 
roll into a sheet as thin as paper. Let 
stand, covered with a cloth about half 
an hour, then roll into a loose roll, and 
with a sharp knife cut into threads or 
ribbons (narrow or broad, as suits the 
taste") . Let drv about an hour before 




STANDING RIB ROAST, READY FOR TABLE 



Creamed Salt Codfish, Poulette 
Style 

Pick salt codfish tenderloins in bits. 
There should be three generous cups of 
fish. Fresh ''Fish Flakes" put up in 
cans ma,y be used for this purpose ; 
these flakes require no soaking in cold 
water, but are ready to add to the 
sauce. Set the salt fish to soak in cold 
water overnight. In the morning let 
heat very gradually, in the same water, 
until the water looks milky and is very 
hot but not boiling. Meanwhile melt 
one-third a cup of butter ; in it cook one- 
third a cup of flour, and when bubbling 
and frothy add three cups of rich milk 
and stir constantly until boiling; drain 
the water from the fish, pressing out all 
that is possible ; stir the fish into the 



cooking ; or. when thoroughly dried, 
store in a close receptacle for use when 
required. 

Noodles in Soup 

Cook the noodles from twenty to 
thirty minutes in rapidly boiling salted 
water or broth and serve in soup. 

Noodles with Rechaufee of Lamb 

Remove the bits of meat from a left- 
over roast leg of lamb and trim the 
meat carefully to remove all unedible 
portions. Cover the bones and unedi- 
ble portions with cold water, and let 
simmer two hours ; add a stalk of celery, 
an onion cut in bits, two or three pars- 
ley branches and tw^o or three tomatoes 
and let simmer half an hour longer; 
drain and use such portion as is needed 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



211 




NOODLES WITH RECHAUFEE OF LAMB 



in simmering the bits of lamb until ten- 
der. When nearly tender, add half a 
green pepper, shredded and cooked three 
minutes in a little butter and one or two 
tablespoonfuls of flour (according to 
quantity of liquid), smoothed in a little 
cold water, and let simmer ten minutes. 
Do not have too much sauce. Have 
ready noodles cooked as for soup; to a 
pint of them add three tablespoonfuls 
of butter and a dash of salt and paprika ; 
with a spoon and fork lift the noodles 
to melt the butter and mix it through 
them. Dispose the noodles as border 
on a serving dish and turn the meat into 
the center of the dish. With a smaller 
quantity of meat, add the meat (with 
noodles ). Tomato puree may replace the 



four cups of flour and two cups of coni- 
meal sifted with four slightly rounding 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one 
teaspoonful of salt. Bake in a well-but- 
tered dripping pan. The pan should be 
16 by 10 inches. 

Panned Chickens with Savory- 
Rice 

Separate a chicken into pieces at the 
joints; set into a buttered baking pan, 
dusting each piece with a bit of butter; 
pour in a cup of boiling salted water or 
veal broth, cover close and set to cook 
in a hot oven; let cook about one hour 
and a half ; baste the chicken once or 
twice and turn over the pieces when half 
cooked. When done remove the chicken 



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H^ ') ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^\ 


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NOODLES, READY TO ROLL AND CUT 



noodles, 
broth. 



Tomato puree may replace the 



Corn Cake 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually heat in one cup and a half of 
sugar, and four eggs, beaten without 
separating the whites and yolks; then 
add two cups of milk, alternately, with 



to a platter, surround with spoonfuls of 
savory rice and serve a sauce in a separ- 
ate dish. 

Sauce for Panned Chicken 

Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter; 
in it cook three tablespoonfuls of flour 
and a scant half teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and black pepper; when bubbling, 



'12 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



stir in half to three-fourths a cup of 
cream and the hroth in the pan. of 
which there should be a cup or more. 
When boiling and smooth strain into a 
bowl. 

Savory Rice for Panned Chicken 

Set one cup of rice over the fire in a 
quantity of cold water and stir con- 
stantly while heating to the boiling 
point ; let boil two or three minutes, 
then drain and rinse with cold water in 
a sieve. Return the rice to the fire with 
one cup and a half, each, of hot tomato 
puree (cooked tomatoes pressed through 
a sieve) and broth; add also a scant tea- 
spoonful of salt, an onion cut in halves, 
with a clove pressed into each half, a 



roll in sifted bread crumbs, h^ry in deep j 
fat until tinted a delicate amber shade. ■ 
Serve with sauce tartare or with HoUan- 
daise sauce. 

Mock Hollandaise Sauce 

Melt one-fourth a cup of Initter ; in 
it cook one-fourth a cup of iiour and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and black pepper, then add one cup of 
milk or white broth and stir until boil- 
ing; beat in the beaten yolks of two 
eggs, beaten into one-fourth a cup of 
creamed butter, and finish with a tea- 
spoonful of lemon juice. Do not let the 
sauce boil after the addition of the Qgg, 
but stir constantly over boiling water 
until the egg is set. 




PANNED CHICKENS WITH SAVORY RICE 



chili pepper (seeds discarded) chopped 
exceedingly fine and a dash of paprika. 
Let cook until the rice is tender ; add 
one-fourth a cup of butter and let stand 
until melted, then use as indicated above. 
More liquid may be needed and the pro- 
portions of tomato and broth may be 
changed to suit convenience. 

Kohl-Rabi, Fried 

Pare young and tender kohl-rabi. cut 
in halves crosswise, let cook in boiling 
water without salt until tender. Drain, 
let cool a little, season wnth salt and 
black pepper, dip in an egg beaten with 
one to four tablespoonfuls of milk, then 



Potato Salad 

Put into a bowl half a green or red 
pepper or two chili peppers (all with 
seeds removed), half to a whole onion, 
according to size, six olives, a table- 
spoonful of capers, a tablespoon ful of 
piccalilli and six branches of parsley ; 
and chop exceedingly fine. Have ready 
three pints of cold, boiled potatoes, cut 
in small cubes ; over these sprinkle the 
chopped ingredients with half a cup of 
olive oil and a scant fourth a cup of 
vinegar mixed with a teaspoonful and 
a half of salt and half a teaspoonful of 
paprika. Toss the ingredients together 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



213 



until all are evenly mixed. Add more 
oil and seasoning, if needed, and mix 
again, then shape into a mound on a 
serving dish. Cover or mask the mound 
with about a cup of mayonnaise dress- 



the flour with the knife, to coat it 
slightly, then knead a little and pat and 
roll with the pin into a thin sheet ; put 
little bits of butter, here and there, on 
one-half the sheet of paste and fold the 




KOHL-RABI, HOLLAXDAISE SAUCE 



ing. Garnish with chopped pickled 
beets and whites of eggs, sifted yolks 
of eggs (cooked) and olives cut in 
lengthwise sections. This quantity will 
serve twelve to fifteen persons. 

^lother's Apple Pie 
(Three Pies) 
Sift together four and one-quarter 
cups of pastry flour, one level teaspoon- 
ful, each, of salt and baking powder; 
with two knives, cut in one cup or half a 
pound of shortening. (Do not work in 



other half over the butter; repeat the 
bits of butter on half this paste, fold as 
before and set aside for the upper crust 
of the pies. Roll out and fit the under- 
crusts on three plates ; roll out the upper 
crust for one pie ; mark a pattern in 
the center, then leave on the board while 
tart apples are pared, cored and sliced 
into the pies ; fill each plate very high 
with apples, sprinkle with a little salt 
and add one tablespoonful of cold water, 
lay on the upper crust, and trim the edge 
neatly ( do not press the edges to- 




POTATO SALAD 



the shortening too thoroughly. ) Add gether ) ; set into the oven and hnish the 

water a little at a time and mix to a other pies in the same way. When a 

dough. Take one-half the paste on a pie is baked, run a thin knife completely 

board dredged with flour and turn it in around the edge, between the two crusts. 



214 



AMi-:RlCA\ COOKERY 



then lift off the upper crust and set it 
upside down on a plate. To the apple 
in the pie add a grating of nutmeg, a 
tablespoonful of butter and a generous 
cup or more of sugar; with a silver 
spoon or knife mix the ingredients 
through the apple and spread evenly 
over the paste, then return the upper 
crust to its place, pressing it down 
slightly. Serve, when partially cooled, 
with a pitcher of cream or with ice- 
cream. 

Coffee Eclairs 

Put three-fourths a cup of butter and 
one cup and a half of boiling water over 
the fire; when the butter is melted, sift 
in one cup and a half of flour, stir con- 



spoonful of salt; add some of the hot 
milk, mix and turn into the rest of the 
hot milk; stir until thickened and 
smooth, then cover and let cook fifteen 
or twenty minutes, stirring occasionally. 
Beat two whole eggs and two yolks (one 
will do) ; add one-third a cup of sugar 
and beat again, then stir into the hot 
mixture ; continue to stir until the egg 
is set. When cold flavor with a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla and use as above. 

Coffee Icing 

Have ready three-fourths a cup of 
very strong black coffee ; into this stir, 
sifted, confectioner's sugar to make an 
icing that will spread smoothly without 
running from the cakes. 




MOTHER'S APPLE PIE 



stantly until the mixture may be formed 
into a smooth mass, then turn into a 
mixing bowl ; break in, one at a time, 
four whole eggs and one white of tgg] 
beat in each tgg thoroughly before add- 
ing another. Shape on buttered pans 
into twenty-five strips an inch and a 
quarter wide and three or four inches 
long. Bake about twenty-five minutes in 
a moderate oven with stronger heat at 
bottom than above. Split down one side, 
fill with English cream ; invert the cakes 
and spread coffee icing on the smooth^ 
side. 

English Cream 

Scald three cups of milk over boilino^ 
water. Sift together three-fourths a cup, 
each, of flour and sugar and half a tea- 



Cup Cake with Frosting of 
Chocolate Creams 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, half a cup of 
milk, one cup and a half of sifted flour, 
sifted again with two level teaspoon fuls 
of baking powder and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of mace. Lastly, beat in the 
whites of two eggs, beaten dry. Bake in 
a round pan, nearly forty minutes. The 
pan should be seven inches in diameter. 
Cover with a frosting made of sifted 
confectioner's sugar and boiling water, 
or hot syrup stirred to a consistency to 
spread ; begin with two cups of sugar. 
Break up chocolate creams and press on 
the frostinor. chocolate side out : also cut 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



215 




COFFEE ECLAIRS 



figures, with a small vegetable cutter, 
from slices of the creams, and use in 
a symmetrical manner as a further 
decoration of the cake. 

Grape Juice Bombe Glace 

Boil one quart of water and one pint 
of sugar twenty minutes ; add one tea- 
spoonful of gelatine softened in a little 
cold water ; when cold add two cups of 
grape juice and the juice of one large 
lemon and freeze in the usual manner. 
Use this frozen mixture to line a two- 
quart melon mold. Fill the center with 
an unfrozen cream mixture, and cover 
this with some of the frozen mixture. 
To do this, take up a small spoonful 
of the frozen mixture and with a knife 
dispose it against the inside of the mold ; 
repeat this all the way around, then set 
other spoonfuls against this frozen mix- 
ture until the cream mixture is com- 



pletely covered and the mold filled to 
overflow. Spread on a sheet of paper, 
press the cover in place and pack in 
equal measures of ice and salt. Let 
stand about one hour and a half ; repack 
if necessary. 

Cream Filling for Bombe 

Beat the white of one egg dry ; beat 
in one-third a cup of sugar and a tea- 
spoonful of vanilla. Beat one cup of 
cream until quite firm, then fold the two 
mixtures together and use as above. 

Orange-and-Banana Bombe Glace 

Boil one quart of water and tw^o cups 
of sugar twenty minutes ; add one tea- 
spoonful of gelatine softened in a little 
cold water. When cold add two cui>> 
of orange juice and the juice of one 
large lemon and freeze as usual. Use 
this mixture to line a two-quart melon 




CUP CAKE WITH ICIXG OF CHOCOLATE CREAMS 
Bv Theodora Coffin 



216 



AMERICAN COOKERY 





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MARSH MALLOW PARFAIT 



mold ; lill the center with banana par- 
fait, made with candied fruit, cover with 
orange ice and let stand packed in the 
usual manner about an hour and a half. 

Divinity or JNIarshmallow Parfait 

Cut one- fourth a pound of marsh- 
mallows and half a cup of maraschino 
cherries into small pieces, cover with 
syrup from the maraschino bottle, or 
with rum or a rich syrup, and let stand 
several hours or over night. Boil three- 
fourths a cup of sugar and one-third a 
cup of boiling water to 240° F., as in 
making frosting or fondant. Pour in a 
fine stream on the whites of two eggs, 
beaten light ; beat occasionally until cold, 
then fold in one cup and a third of 
cream, beaten quite firm, and the pre- 



pared fruit. Turn into a three-pint 
mold, pack in equal measures of salt and 
crushed ice and let stand two to three 
hours, renewing the ice as needed. When 
unmolded surround wi:h toasted marsh- 
mallows. 

Banana Parfait 

Peel and scrape two or three bananas, 
then press the pulp through a ricer or 
sieve (there should be a cup of pulp) ; 
scald the pulp with two-thirds a cup of 
sugar, add the juice of half a lemon and 
let chill ; then fold in one cup of cream 
whipped rather firm and one-third a cup 
of candied fruit (cherries, pineapple, 
apricots, etc.), cut very fine and soaked 
over night in two tablespoon fuls of Ja- 
maica rum or syrup. 




COUPE TOPO PINO 
(For recipe see page 234.) 



Menus for One Week in October 

Flavors excepted, flavors are developed in food by cooking. 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated) 

Sliced Peaches 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato Soup 
Fried Chicken, Sweet Pickled Peaches 
Corn Fritters Mashed Potatoes 
Celery- 
Grape Juice Bombe Glace 
Lady Fingers 
Half Cups of Ccffee 

Supper 

Oysters a la King 

Toast 

Sliced Pineapple Orange Cookies 



Breakfast 

Hash, Bacon 
Fried Cereal Mush, 

Caramel Syrup 

Amber Marmalade 

Currant Buns 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Corned Beef 

Boiled Potatoes, Cabbage, Beets 

Baked Indian Pudding. Hard Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cream Toast 

Chocolate Cream Pie 

Sliced Peaches 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Bacon Cooked in Oven 

French Omelet with Creamed Chicken 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Fried Apples Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Cutlets en Casserole 

(Carrots, onions, potatoes) 

Romaine, French Dressing 

Apple Dumplings, Hard Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cream of Celery Soup, 

Browned Crackers 

Parker House Rolls 

Apple Sauce 

Coffee Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Buttered Toast 

Breakfast Corncake 

Apple Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 



Hash 



Dinner 

Corned Beef-and-Potato 

Pickled Beets 

Creamed Cabbage 

Squash Pie 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Broiled Tomatoes (buttered crumbs) 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Apple Sauce 

Roxbury Cakes Tea 



Breakfast 

Salt Mackerel Cooked in Milk 

Creamed Potatoes 
Parker House Rolls (reheated) 
Sliced Tomatoes 
Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner 
Hamburg Roast, 
^ Franconia Potatoes 

y Halves of Kohl Rabi, Egged and 
ID Crumbed, Fried, Sauce Hollandaise 
Squash Pie 
Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Stewed Crabapples 

Honey Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Salt Codfish Balls, Bacon Curls 

Cornmeal Muffins 

New Pickles 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Tomato Soup 

Scalloped Oysters 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cold Slaw 

Baked Pears 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Succotash 

Toasted Baking Powder Biscuit 

Crabapple Marmalade 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Country Sausage 

French Fried Potatoes 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Cold Boiled Ham 

Creamed Kohl Rabi au Gratin 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Apple Pie Cheese 

Half Cups of Coffee 

217 



Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Boston Brown Bread 

Pickled String Beans 

Apole or Peach Butter 

Honey Cookies Tea 



Menus for Family of Twenty-five 



< 
p 

ID 
(/I 



{Sedetitary Occupations) 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Creamed Salt Codfish, Poulette Style 

Baked Potatoes Corn Cake 

Coflfee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Standing: Rib Roast, Brown Sauce 

Franconia Potatoes 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Spiced Crabapple Jelly Celery 

Mother's Apple Pie 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Guocchi a la Romaine 

Apple Sauce 

Rye Bread Honey Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Baked Sweet Apples Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Tomato Soup Cheese Custard 

Lettuce, Green Peppers and Celery, 

French Dressing 

Apples Baked with Almonds, thin Cream 

New York Gingerbread Tea 

pinner 
Chicken Fricassee, Kornlet Timbales 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing with 

Garlic 

Peach Sherbet Drop Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Date Muffins French Bread (Toasted) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Cold Boiled Ham Potato Salad 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding Tea 

Dinner 

Beef Soup with Noodles 

Slices of Fresh Fish Baked with 

Bread Dressing 

Drawn Butter Sauce, Mashed Potatoes, 

Cabbage Salad Boiled Onions 

Squash Pie or Banana-Coffee Jelly, 

Whipped Cream Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Sliced Bananas Cereal, Thin Cream 

Chicken Omelet 

Corncake Peach Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Fresh Lima Beans. Stewed 

Nut Bread and Butter 

Canned Rhubarb Pie, Cottage or 

Neufchatel Cheese Tea 

Dinner 
Forequarter of Lamb, Boiled, 

Caper Sauce 

Boiled Turnips and Potatoes 

Buttered Beets Apple-Mint Jelly 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Wheat Cereal with Dates, Thin Cream 

Bacon Broiled in Oven 

Hashed Potatoes in Milk 

Sliced Tomatoes Rye-Meal Muffins 

Dry Toast Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Ham Timbales, Late Peas Nut Bread 

Sliced Tomatoes and Shredded Romaine, 

French Dressing with Onion Juice 

Cornstarch Blancmange, Custard Sauce 

Tea 

Dinner 

Hamburg Roast, Tomato Sauce 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Late String Beans 

Baked Tapioca Pudding, Vanilla Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

or Cranberry Pie 

I Breakfast 

Cereal, Baked Sweet Apples 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream Salt Codfish Balls 

Bacon "Rolls" (cooked in deep fat) 

Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Scalloped Oysters Philadelphia Relish 

(Cabbage, green or red peppers, seeds, 

sugar, vinegar) 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken-and-Tomato Soup 

Fillets of Fresh Fish Fried in Deep Fat, 

Sauce Tartare 

Cauliflower, Cream Sauce 

Mashed Potato Balls, Browned in oven 

Grape Juice Bombe Glace 
Elegant Cake Half Cups of Coffee 



Luncheon 

Mexican Rabbit 
Thin Cream Lettuce and Celery, French 

Lamb, Potato-and-Green Pepper Hash Dressing 
Fruit (dried currants) Nut Rolls Parker House Rolls 



Dinner 

Boston Baked Beans 
Mayonnaise of Tomatoes 
and Celery 
Boston Brown Bread 



Apple Marmalade Sliced (canned) Pineapple Sea Moss Blancmange^ Cream 
Coffee Cocoa Coffee Half Cups of Coffee 

218 




Catering for the Family of Twenty-five 

By Janet M. Hill 



ON another page we give well- 
balanced menus, for one week, 
for a family of twenty-five. The 
menus, while containing no extravagant, 
high-priced articles of food, might be 
considered fairly generous. To lessen 
the cost, a chuck roast, braised, might 
replace the rib roast, and the apples 
might be baked without the almonds ; a 
lamb stew might replace the chicken 
fricassee, and lemon sherbet be substi- 
tuted for peach ; scalloped onions, cab- 
bage or tomatoes instead of the scalloped 
oysters, and Philadelphia relish might 
be given for the luncheon on Friday, 
and tomato sauce for the sauce tartare 
given for dinner the same day. Other 
means of cutting down the cost will 
occur to those wishing to give attention 
to the matter. 

As a rule, a choice is given for but a 
few dishes, it being simpler to provide 
and cook enough of any given dish for 
the whole family than to divide one's 
effort among two or three dishes of 
the same class. 

The object in catering for twenty-five 
is a business one, and the success of 
the enterprise will depend largely on the 
character of the one engaged in conduct- 
ing the business. No one succeeds in 
any business who is unw^illing to give 
time to the minute details of the enter- 
prise; hours spent in the kitchen are 
quite as necessary as money to spend in 
the markets. 



Good bread is of first importance. It 
must appear in some form at each of 
the three meals. To make and bake 
good bread, to cool and store it, and 
use left-over portions judiciously, re- 
quires thought and care. But, let one 
give the attention to the work that is 
requisite to the proper doing of any 
task, and supply a varied assortment of 
this standard article of food, and praises 
for well-doing will be showered upon 
her. 

It is surprising how few women make 
good bread, and still more surprising 
to find one trs'ing a new variety. 

A barrel of bread flour — if other ma- 
terials, as corn and ryemeal, graham 
and whole wheat flour, be used for 
breakfast breads — will last a family of 
twenty-five about, five weeks. If the 
bread be particularly choice, and varied 
in kind, — especially in summer, when 
berries are plentiful, — the barrel may be 
emptied in four weeks ; still, bread, 
even the fancy varieties, calling for eggs 
and shortening, would not be classed as 
expensive food. 

Sugar is usually cheaper in the spring 
than in midsummer, and a stock should 
be bought and stored when the price is 
low. A barrel will be needed about once 
in two months. 

Potatoes are an expensive item of 
food. In spring and early summer the 
selling price is highest. Old potatoes 
are then good, if they be but left to 



219 



220 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



stand awhile in cold water before cook- 
ing. Paring is almost a necessity at this 
time, and for this work choose some one 
with a provident tendency in makeup. 
The best part of the potato lies just 
underneath the skin, and to cut deep 
enough to remove all "eyes" is waste- 
ful from every point of view. In fac- 
tories where apples are canned, the par- 
ings are carefully dried and sold to fac- 
tories making jelly. By-products must 
be eliminated or used in these days, if 
catering is to be made a successful busi- 
ness venture. 

Cereals can be bought more cheaply 
in bulk than in packages, but large quan- 
tities should not be purchased in sum- 
mer; the place in which they are stored 
should be cleaned with steam or hot 
water, fresh paint or varnish, before 
the supply for winter is stored. 

Steam-cooked cereals, especially oat- 
meal, may be set to cook at night, while 
clearing away the supper. After cook- 
ing a few minutes, directly over the fire, 
set over boiling water. When ready to 
leave the kitchen, remove from the 
stove, then in the morning return again 
to the fire, and by the time of serving it 
will be thoroughly cooked. 

Salt codfish — carefully treated — is ap- 
petising, and, served occasionally, will 
be given a generous welcome. Gentle 
heat renders it tender; a high degree 
of heat makes it tough and unpalatable. 

Fifteen pounds of beef will supply 
the dinner-table with a rib roast. If 
you have a sharp knife and the ability 
to cut the meat in even, thin, appetising 
slices, you need not feel alarmed, should 
a few young and hearty members of the 
family call for a second helping, for 
the piece may be cut into thirty or more 
slices. 

Do not delegate the removal of the 
bits of meat left on the bones to any- 
one, but do it yourself ; these, freed 
from all unedible portions, and carefully 
chopped, may be used as the nucleus 
of the main dish for another meal. 
Macaroni, noodles, or potatoes, with a 



good sauce, will supply material to en- 
large the dish. The bones and unedible 
portions are rich with meat juice and 
flavor browned upon them, and may be 
used for the foundation of a well-flav- 
ored soup. 

For the dinner on Monday, seven or 
eight pounds of solid fish (without 
heads or other refuse), are needed. If 
whole fish are purchased, twelve pounds 
would probably be required. The va- 
riety of fish selected will depend on the 
price one is willing to pay. The success 
of the dish depends quite as much on 
the care given to its cooking as on the 
variety of fish. Gentle heat, frequent 
basting, serving as soon as cooked, and 
the accompaniment of a suitable sauce, 
must be given attention. 

For the Hamburg roast, purchase 
seven or eight pounds from the top of 
the round; cook with care, and do not 
overcook. 

Fowds about a year old are best for 
the fricassee. Four, weighing about four 
pounds each, will be needed. Reserve 
the bony pieces and use the meat from 
them in an omelet, or in a chicken roll. 
For the roll, make a biscuit dough, with 
three pints of flour and the usual in- 
gredients in proper proportion. Roll the 
dough into a very thin sheet; spread 
lightly with butter, then with the rem- 
nants of chicken, cut in small pieces; 
roll as a jelly roll, and bake. To serve, 
cut the roll in pieces the size of a gen- 
erous biscuit; serve a sauce made of 
chicken broth, in a bowl, or over each 
portion. This dish could probably be 
handled more easily and served more 
advantageously if baked in three rolls. 

Tapioca pudding, made with a foun- 
dation of one quart of milk, will serve 
eight. 

Some frozen mixtures expand in 
freezing more than others, and thus fur- 
nish a more generous ''helping." As a 
rule, three quarts of mixture, ready for 
freezing, will be ample for twenty-five. 
For sherbet, boil two quarts of water 
and one quart of sugar twenty minutes, 



THE FIRELESS 



221 



then, when cold, add the juice of two 
lemons and nearly one quart of fruit 
juice. For peach sherbet, pare and 
stone the peaches, then press the pulp 
through a sieve, pour over the lemon 
juice, and the pulp will not discolor. 

Purchase the whole forequarter of 
lamb for boiling; cooked five or six 
hours at a gentle simmer (or by steam- 
ing), the meat will be deliciously ten- 
der; the portion left over may be used 
in hash for breakfast, or souffle or cro- 
quettes for luncheon. 

Three cups of cream and a can and 
a half of grated pineapple will be need- 
ed for the pineapple Bavarian cream. 

For the Mexican rabbit, use two 
pounds of cheese. 

For Parker House or other rolls, take 
one quart of milk with one cup of 



water, to mix with the yeast. 

Three pints of pea beans and a scant 
half-pound of salt pork are needed for 
Boston baked beans, and one quart of 
thick sour milk for the Boston brown 
bread, to accompany the beans. 

Two or three cups of Mayonnaise will 
serve twenty-five, generously, with salad 
dressing; but as some will not care for 
this dish, the smaller portion will be 
enough to make. 

A seven-pound codfish, haddock, cusk 
or hake, or rather more than the equiv- 
alent of small, fresh-water fish, will be 
needed for chowder. 

On Friday, two and one-half quarts 
of oysters, three pints of chopped cab- 
bage, three green peppers, and three 
pints of pastry flour, will give the foun- 
dation of the luncheon. 



The Fireless 



How often our hearts have been harrowed 

by stories of woeful distress — 
Of cooks who would get into tantrums and 

leave, with the house in a mess. 
With company coming to dinner and poor 

Mrs- Housewife alone — 
No kind of relief for her feelings excepting 

to grumble and moan ! 



Those tragedies haunt us no longer ; the cook 

is no autocrat, now ; 
Her exodus brings not a wrinkle to young 

Mrs. Housekeeper's brow ; 
For, Lo, she can start things to cooking, then 

tuck them away in a nest 
And tranquilly go out a-shopping, or sit in her 

rocker and rest. 



And John— let him come home as early or stay 

out as late as he must; 
His wife isn't frazzled and crabbed, the dinner 

not cinders and dust. 
He finds his beloved in a hammock, or taking 

her ease with a book — 
Hurrah for the fireless cooker — Hooray for 

the fireless cook ! 

Harriet Whitney Symonds. 



A Lesson in Cake Decoration 

By Martha Race 



Materials 



1 box marshmallows ; 

A soup-plate half-filled with cornstarch; 

Small scissors ; 

These decorations may be made at 
any time, even weeks in advance, and 
arranged on a plate dredged with flour, 
to be transferred to the cake when 
needed. Indeed, they keep their shapes 
better if kept in a cool place for a few 
days and given an opportunity to dry 
out. 

For a simple decoration no pattern 
is needed. If a border is desired, the 
easiest way to mark it on a circular 
cake is by resting an inverted bowl or 
dish of the right diameter on top of 
the icing, just before it is dry, for a 
minute. On a square or oblong loaf, 
a ruler and long hatpin may be used. 
In this border the flowers or figures may 
be placed at regular intervals, in con- 
ventional style, or in clusters, as wished. 

For a more elaborate decoration, cut 
a circle of stiff white paper the size of 
the cake, trace the design with pencil, 
and then stitch over all the lines on the 
sewing machine, with large needle and 
no thread. The design is transferred 
to the cake by rubbing cocoa very lightly 
over the paper. 

One with no facility in drawing or 
designing may trace designs from pic- 
tures or copy embroidery designs. 

When the design is prepared and the 
materials are ready, with the scissors 
cut bits from the marshmallows and dip 
into corn starch, then form with the 
fingers into the required shapes. Flower 
petals are easy, and so are leaves. Stems 
are made by rolling tiny bits of marsh- 
mallow between the palms ; very delicate 
stems, however, are better put on with 
a brush. Flags are made of flattened 
strips, the edges trimmed by scissors. 
Holly berries, grapes, cannon balls, etc., 
a*re simply rolled between the fingers. 



Water-color brushes; 
Vegetable colorings ; 
Water to wash brushes. 

Shamrocks and other leaves should be 
trimmed. The fingers and the bit being 
manipulated should always be well cov- 
ered with starch. 

When formed and placed on the cake, 
or on a plate, the flowers and figures 
are tinted with the brushes and vege- 
table colorings, which may be mixed just 
as water colors are. With red, blue and 
yellow on hand, of course other tints 
may be mixed, but it is well to have a 
bottle, each, of violet and green, as the 
colors are inexpensive and last a very 
long time. The tints should be kept 
thin and delicate. 

For a birthday cake, a good design is 
made by making an initial in the center, 
surrounded by a small circle (use an 
inverted saucer or cup), of the birth- 
month flower, with candles around the 
outside edge of the cake. 

Christmas : Holly berries ; poinsettias ; 
snow balls and snow man for children. 

Valentine: A circle of hearts. 

St. Patrick's Day: Shamrocks; harps; 
pipes. 

May Day : Wild rose. 

Fourth of July : Flags ; piled cannon 
balls of red, white and blue ; fire 
crackers. 

Thanksgiving: Grapes, autumn leaves, 
pumpkins, apples, Puritan hats. 

Flowers: Daisies, sunflowers, wild 
roses, sweet peas, violets, iris, dogwood, 
etc. 

On a chocolate icing, daisies, sunflow- 
ers, dogwood or white roses are most 
effective. 

Emblems look best when molded to 
appear in heavy relief and thinly iced; 
tinted if on white ground, white if on 
chocolate. 

A little practice will give good results. 



222 



llllUIUIlUtUlUUUlUMUMUUU 



t±l 

ffl 




IDEAS Lf 
EC0i\0/m&5 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



For the Girl in the Small Town 

ALL small towns are on the road 
to somewhere. Consequently, 
tourists must pass through the 
small town to reach the "somewhere," 
one, five, or ten miles beyond. Fre- 
quently, also, automobile parties make 
the small town, — your town, — the objec- 
tive point on a pleasure ride. As a 
rule, however, the small town has little 
to offer in the way of pleasure or 
refreshment for the tired and thirsty 
traveler. Why not provide for his needs 
and, at the same time, secure an income 
that will prove a pleasant surprise to 
you before the season is over. 

I mean, start an "Automobile Inn." 

Let me add, before that title frightens 
you away from what follows, that this 
requires neither a special place nor any 
capital. Your front porch or lawn, a 
loaf of bread, some lettuce from your 
garden, and a pound of tea will start 
you. At least, that started one young 
woman on the road to independence. 

To begin, put out a sign where it can 
be plainly seen. The one I have in mind 
was a white cloth stretched across the 
road from a tree on one side to a tele- 
graph pole on the other, with the words 
"Automobile Inn, Tea for Tired Tour- 
ists," painted in black on either side. 
No one passing under it could fail to 
see it. 

Then place two or three small tables, 
— any old ones which you may have will 
do, — in convenient places either on the 
porch or on the grass outside. Cover 



them with a spotless white lunch cloth ; 
place a bowl of wild flowers on each 
table and outwardly, at least, you are 
ready for business. 

Have on hand two or three loaves of 
good fresh bread, some lettuce, perhaps 
a half dozen hard-boiled eggs, some 
mayonnaise dressing, a good quality of 
tea, and a kettle of water on the stove 
to boil, — then wait until the first auto- 
mobile passes. If it fails to stop, do 
not be discouraged. The next one will, 
perhaps, at least, one or two will before 
the day is over, — out of curiosity if for 
nothing else. 

Do not try to serve too much at first. 
Two kinds of sandwiches and tea are 
sufficient, but be sure that they are 
good, — the very best that you can make. 
Then if your first customers have 
stopped out of curiosity, they will come 
again out of choice. 

You may add to your menu as your 
trade increases, but never try to serve 
any great variety. It will add to your 
waste and detract from your profits. 
Things fresh from your garden, which 
can be easily prepared and served, will 
best suit the city guest. Then do not 
be afraid to charge good prices if you 
serve good things, — ten cents for a cup 
of tea, ten i,Qx sandwiches, and ten for 
radishes, berries or whatever extra you 
may have. It is well to keep to the 
ten-cent fee, as far as possible ; but, 
where the cost of materials would 
necessitate, fifteen, twenty, or twenty- 
five cents is not too much for a sand- 
wich. 



223 



224 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Let me add that you do not need 
fancy dishes. Out of doors makes that 
unnecessary, but everything must be 
spotlessly clean and daintily served. 
Paper napkins can be bought for ten 
cents a hundred ; paper doilies can, also, 
be gotten for a mere trifle, and various 
things will suggest themselves v^hich 
will add to the attractiveness of your 
"Inn." 

If you find yourself with too much 
to do, get some young girl in your 
neighborhood to help serve your guests 
and wash the dishes. In the small town 
many will be glad of the opportunity. 
If you have a small sister, so much the 
better. I believe you will soon find 
yourself in need of such help and that 
you will be well able to secure it, finan- 
cially, at least. 

This is not an imaginary scheme, but 
one which has proved a boon to tourists 
and a substantial source of income to 
the one who tried it. h. c. w. 

* * * 

WHEN I first tried to learn to cook, 
an old colored chef gave me some 
advice which has since proved to be most 
useful. It was simply this : ''Keep a 
strainer near by when cooking and if 
soups, gravies and sauces are in- 
clined to lump when thickening, do not 
be discouraged and throw them away, 
but put them through the strainer and 
start anew as if they had never lumped. 
With this practice you will soon learn 
to make them without lumping." This 
has been tried again and again, but al- 
ways with success. It may be psycho- 
logical, but, at any rate, it works. 

At a man's dinner the table decora- 
tions were red and some very pretty 
little balls of red and white were passed 
with the salad. These had been made 
by moulding cream cheese the shape and 
size of a large strawberry, slitting a 
bright maraschino cherry in four sec- 
tions, cut halfway down, and pressing 
it on the cheese ball exactly like the 
hull on the strawberry. These were 
pleasant to the eye and good to the 



palate; and they would be quite as 
pretty fixed with green cherries, where 
green decorations were used or on a 
special occasion like St. Patrick's Day. 

The silver tops of small cut glass salt 
cellars have a habit of coming loose 
after months of hard wear and, in our 
household, several pairs were discarded 
as worthless, before it occurred to us 
that we could repair them ourselves by 
scraping ofif the old plaster of Paris, 
putting on a fresh supply and fitting the 
silver band to it. Plaster of Paris 
hardens very rapidly, and one must plan 
either to work very quickly or to do the 
task by sections. j. h. 

Our Favorite Sauce 

BEING ver}^ fond of sauces myself, I 
am passing this recipe along to oth- 
ers who may share my taste in this line. 
We use this with fruit and frozen pud- 
dings and, as well, heaped high upon a 
dish of sliced fruits and nut meats for 
a dessert at small or informal lunches. 
Beat until quite thick the yolks of two 
large fresh eggs, then add the beaten 
white of one egg and two tablespoon- 
fuls of confectioner's sugar. Place in 
a double boiler and cook (stirring the 
while) until thick. Pour into a cool 
china or earthern bowl and beat with 
a silver or wooden spoon until it is 
cold, then mix in this one cup of 
whipped cream. If to be used with 
puddings, flavor with one-half teaspoon- 
ful of best vanilla extract. If for fruit 
dessert, with a quarter teaspoonful of 
almond extract. e. c. l. 

* * * 

Just to Remind You 

WHEN making custard or pumpkin 
pie always use the milk warm, — it 
bakes better, and has a more creamy 
taste. 

When baking a fowl always place it 
breast downward in the dish, and the 
meat of the breast will be juicy, instead 
of stringy and tasteless, as it so often is. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



225 



Just before serving hot chocolate, beat 
in some stiff whipped cream, allowing 
a dessertspoonful to each cup of choco- 
late. It is thrice as nourishing, and 
will not seem too rich for even a weak 
stomach. 

In your salads never forget the wee 
bit of garlic, and you then will not sense 
the "something missing" so often no- 
ticed in salads this side of the ocean. 
That is, excepting in southern states, 
where garlic is the rule, not the excep- 
tion. E. c. L. 



Pressing Difficulties 

NOTHING is so conducive to 
smoothing out difficulties as the 
week's ironing in full swing. The 
more or less rhythmic motion, the 
beauty of the thing accomplished, the 
very cleanliness of the material one is 
at work on, all are quieting to the 
nerves; and the fact that the work is 
largely mechanical, leaves the mind 
free. If one merely wishes to mildly 
and serenely ruminate, that can be 
done best when one is at complete 
leisure, but planning ahead, striving to 
see a way out of difficulties, arranging 
the best courses to pursue — to do these 
with a fair and open mind, the muscles 
must be busy at work upon some 
active affair of their own. Philosophy 
and tadpoles from quiet pools, as it 
were, but purposeful thinking and an 
eager trout only from a running 
stream. 

Now if, by chance, my ironing board 
is by a window, so that my visual 
horizon is widened to the very heav- 
ens, and I can take the sun and moon 
into my confidence, what more can I 
ask? Washday with all its sloppy and 
unpleasant features is either behind my 
back or a good week off, as I choose 
to look at it; and no more serious con- 
sequences of my present act are to be 
apprehended than a temporary over- 
flow of the mending basket. All for 
the time being is plain sailing. Here 



now, is a table-cloth, edges meeting 
evenly, pattern springing glossily 
forth from the smooth, satin surface. 
While my iron went back and forth 
over its three yards of length, behold, 
that part of me that travels body-free 
and with neither scrip nor purse for 
the journey, has covered a thousand 
miles in space, and gone a week into 
the future, there to solve a difficulty 
for my college boy. Here's a row of 
stockings — a long, centipedal row. 
'Twas easy enough to iron them, 
harder by many degrees to plan how 
to fit them with new shoes and yet 
continue to buy the daily meat and 
potatoes from the same purse. Hard 
as it w^as, it was accomplished ; and 
there hang the dangling black legs on 
the clothes-horse, and one more diffi- 
culty has been smoothed from my path 
as the iron went to and fro. Who was 
it who said "blessed be drudgery"? 
She — I've a suspicion it was a she — 
w^as half right. I myself would only 
venture to bless the kind of drudgery 
that does not make a drudge of me. 
But after all, that's in my own hands. 
And now for the baby's petticoats, 
bless him ! 

Doing the Dishes 

IT is a matter of considerable aston- 
ishment that a woman who uncom- 
plainingly cooks three meals a day, 
sweeps, dusts and makes beds, scrubs 
the kitchen floor and polishes the sil- 
ver, goes to market, and takes the baby 
out for an airing, and bends over the 
sewing machine for hours at a time, 
will yet balk at the small matter of 
washing the dishes. This dull duty 
she looks upon as that last straw that 
broke the camel's back — although it is 
not nearly so back-breaking as most of 
the other straws in the bale. But you 
see, complains the woman (you, per- 
haps, or myself), one can put off scrub- 
bing the kitchen, on a pinch, and the 
marketing can be done over the tele- 
phone, but the dishes are as persistent 



226 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



as the ticking of the clock. You've just 
got to do 'em! 

Well, there's no use kicking against 
the pricks. It only hurts one's toe and 
does the pricks no satisfactory injury. 
Dishes are offensive only in proportion 
as they have been offended. Piled, 
helter-skelter, in the sink and left till 
an unseasonable hour, they hurl re- 
proach every time one looks at them. 
One is in the position of Hannibal 
w^hen he was cut off in the rear and 
had the Alps yet ahead of him. A dish 
is a symbol of civilization and an epit- 
ome of man from the ancient cave- 
dweller to the modern epicure. Jael is 
said to have offered Sisera "butter in 
a lordly dish", possibly the only dish 
she possessed outside of a few pots and 
kettles. Our shelves are full of china 
and porcelain, lordly in truth, and both 
useful and beautiful — yet how we de- 
spise the simple duty of keeping them 
clean! 

However, since it must be done, why 
not plunge boldly in, nor stand, so to 
speak, shivering on the bank. See now, 
I will gather together cups with cups, 
plates with plates, spoons with spoons, 
after the orderly fashion of birds of a 
feather flocking together. Now my 
army is marshalled in regiments. Al- 
ready I am encouraged, for now there 
is elbow room, which certainly did not 
exist before. Now I shall move my 
regiments, in the order of their clean- 
liness (glasses taking an excellent lead 
and kettles bringing up the rear) 
through water, hot, soapy, and frothed 
with shining rainbows. And when 
they emerge upon the other side I will 
wipe them before either they or my 
ardor has cooled. Every regiment 
shall have its own towel — a handsome 
allowance, you will allow. Then I 
shall hang the towels out on the line 
in the sunshine, tasting ozone (nectar 
of nectars) mvself the while, and put 



my lordly dishes on the shelves where 
they belong. Presto! The hateful job 
is done. Hannibal has crossed the 
Alps! H. c. c. 

* * * 

A New Salad Success 

OUR card club hostess of last week 
served an original salad, which we 
all pronounced the "best ever." She had 
secured fine fresh dates, and after re- 
moving the seeds, stuffed each with a 
ball of neufchatel cheese. Over the 
mayonnaise she sprinkled a few whole 
pecan meats. Head-lettuce finished, or 
should I say began, this salad. 

A Tennis or Golf Salad 

At the luncheon following the club 
tennis tournament we were served with 
a "ball" salad. The tiny balls were 
made up of seasoned cottage cheese, 
which had been covered with rolled nut 
meats. If the cheese is moist and the 
nuts carefully rolled, each ball will be 
thoroughly covered. Three were served 
on each plate, on head-lettuce, with 
mayonnaise. 

Marshmallow Suggestions 

It is often hard, or perhaps impossi- 
ble, to get fresh marshmallows, and 
those that are a little stale will spoil 
a salad, salpicon or hot chocolate if used 
there in place of whipped cream. Just 
before using, empty as many as needed 
into a shallow pan and slip in to a warm 
oven. A ver>' few minutes of this treat- 
ment will make them nice and fresh. 

When marshmallows are to be com- 
bined with pineapple for salad, they are 
much improved by being soaked several 
hours in the juice of the pineapple. Cut 
them into quarters, cover with the juice 
and let stand until the small pieces are 
puffy and soft. Dates or nuts or both 
added to this combination make a good 
summer salad. l. s. k. 




'T'HIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes, 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit ^1.00, Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cookikg-School Magazine, 372 Bcylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 2213.- 
Pickled Crabapples." 



'Recipe for Spiced and 



Spiced, Pickled Crab Apples 



3 ounces stick cinna- 
mon 
1 to 3 cups water 



7 pounds crabapples 
3i pounds sugar 
3 cups vinegar 
Whole cloves 

The method of preparing this pickle 
depends somewhat on the variety of 
crabapple. Hard crabapples need to be 
steamed a short time in a little water 
before the syrup is added. With soft 
crabapples, press one or two cloves into 
each apple, make a syrup of the sugar 
vinegar and water, add the cinnamon 
and the crabapples, a few at a time, and 
let cook until tender but whole; remove 
the crabapples to jars as they are 
cooked; when all are done, reduce the 
syrup and fill the jars to overflow. With 
hard crabapples, cook till somewhat ten- 
der in water, then use this water in mak- 
ing the syrup, then return the apples to 
the syrup and finish as before. 



Query No. 2214. — "Recipe for Squash 
Muffins without Yeast." 

Squash Muffins (Baking Powder) 



1§ cups pastry flour 
i cup sifted squash 
3 tablespoonfuls 
melted butter 
1 egg. beaten light 
i cup sugar 



1 teaspoonful salt 

2 slightly rounding_ 
teaspoonfuls baking 
powder 

About I cup sweet 
milk 



Sift together the flour, sugar, baking 
powder and salt. Beat the egg; add 
the squash, melted butter and milk and 
stir into the dry ingredients. More or 



less milk will be needed, according to 
the consistency of the squash. Bake in 
hot, well-buttered muffin pans about 
twenty-five minutes. 



Query No. 2215. — "Recipe for Spice Cake 
made with Coffee." 

Spice Cake with Coffee 

i cup butter 1 teaspoonful cinna- 

1 cup sugar mon 

h cup black coffee I teaspoonful grated 

3 egg yolks nutmeg 

li cups flour i teaspoonful cloves 

2 level teaspoonfuls 3 egg-whites 
baking powder 

Beat the butter to a cream; beat in 
the sugar, beaten yolks with cofifee, then 
flour sifted with baking powder and 
spices and, lastly, the whites, beaten dry. 
Spread in a shallow pan — about ten by 
eight inches. Dredge the top with 
granulated sugar. Bake about half an 
hour. 



Query No. 2216. — "Kindly name ten foods 
that are largely carbohydrate or starchy." 

Ten Foods Largely Starch 

Breakfast cereals, bread, macaroni, 
rice, chestnuts, potatoes, tapioca, ba- 
nanas, dried beans and lentils, crackers. 



Query No. 2217. — "Name ten foods that 
are largely nitrogenous or rich in protein and 
ten that are fatty." 

Ten Foods Rich in Proteids 

Eggs, milk, cheese, beef, veal, lamb, 
fowl, fish, almonds, macaroni. 



227 



228 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Ten Foods Largely Fat 

Cream, butter, olive oil, bacon, wal- 
nuts, pecan nuts, egg yolks, suet, salt 
pork, fat of beef and mutton. Salmon 
contains a large percentage of fat. 



Query No. 2218. — "State the measures 
necessary to safeguard the purity of milk." 

How to Safeguard the Purity of 
Milk 

We are somewhat in doubt as to the 
exact meaning of the above question, 
but think a reply to the question is amply 
covered in the article, **A Square Deal 
for the Milk Bottle," by Alice E. Whit- 
aker, on page 763 of Vol. XVIII (May, 
1914). 



Query No. 2219. — "Recipe for Swedish 
Sponge Cake." 

Swedish Sponge Cake 

Beat the whites of five eggs dry and 
the yolks of five eggs very light ; gradu- 
ally beat one cup of sugar into the 
yolks; add the grated rind of a lemon 
and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, 
then fold in half a cup of potato flour 
and the whites of eggs. Bake in an un- 
buttered tube-pan about one hour. Let 
cool in the inverted pan. 



Query No. 2220. — "Recipes for Chocolate 
Filling" and a "White Icing." 

Chocolate Filling 



4 yolks 

i teaspoonfuls salt 
1 teaspoonful vanilla 
i teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 



2 cups milk 
i cup flour 
I cup sugar 

1 ounce (or more) 
chocolate 

2 eggs or 

Stir the flour with a little of the milk, 
cold, to a smooth consistency; scald the 
rest of the milk in a double boiler; stir 
the flour into the hot milk, and let cook, 
stirring constantly, until the mixture 
thickens ; melt the chocolate, add a little 
of the sugar and a tablespoonful or 
more of the hot corn starch and stir 
until smooth ; add to the rest of the 
corn starch and let cook fifteen minutes. 



Beat the eggs; add the salt and the rest 
of the sugar and stir into the corn 
starch; continue stirring until the tgg is 
"set." When cool add the extract and 
use. 

White Icing 

Boil one-fourth a cup, each, of granu- 
lated sugar and water five minutes, then 
stir in sifted confectioner's sugar to 
make an icing that will spread smoothly, 
but not run from the cake. 



Query No. 2221. — "Recipes for Graham 
Cracker Cake made with two eggs," and 
"scalloped onions." 

Two-Egg Graham Cracker Cake 



h cup butter 
i cup sugar 
2 egg-yolks 
1 cup milk 
S pound Graham 
crackers 



3 level teaspoonfuls 
baking powder 

2 egg-whites, beaten 
dry 

i teaspoonful cinna- 
mon or mace 



Mix the cake in the usual manner. 
Roll the crackers, then pass through a 
sieve. Repeat the rolling to secure the 
full weight of the crackers. Sift the 
baking powder and spice (spice may be 
omitted) into the crumbs and mix thor- 
oughly. Bake in two or three layers. 
Put the layers together with whipped 
cream or mocha frosting. Pipe the 
cream or frosting over the top. 

Scalloped Onions i 

This dish may be prepared from on-^ 
ions boiled for the purpose or from 
onions, boiled and buttered, left over 
from a previous meal. The cooked on- 
ions should be cut in slices or chopped 
rather coarse. Have a nearly equal bulk 
of soft, fine bread crumbs and for each 
cup of crumbs about one-fourth a cup 
of melted butter. Stir the butter 
through the crumbs. Dispose the but- 
tered crumbs and prepared onion, in 
alternate layers, in a buttered baking 
dish, having crumbs for the last layer. 
Season the layers of onion with salt 
and pepper. Bake until very hot and the 
crumbs are browned. 



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being taught the advantages of Crisco 

Domestic Science is making a nation of good cooks. The 
coming generation of housekeepers will start their practical experi- 
ence in home-cookery with Crisco. 

Prominent Domestic Science institutions use Crisco. They judge by analysis; 
they reject or accept a food product only after having scientifically tested it for purity 
and for w/iat it will do. 

Wherever, in fact, Domestic Science is taught — in public school, college or 
cooking class, Crisco is almost certain to be used. The fact that the heads of these 
institutions, these men and women who make cooking their life business use Crisco, 
is a strong suggestion that Crisco should replace the older cooking fats in your own 
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This cook book containing tested Domestic Science recipes 
and information will help you in the preparation of delicious 
Crisco dishes. 

Beautiful cloth-bound book of new recipes and a 
"Calendar of Dinners" for five 2-cent stamps! 

This handsome book by Marion Harris Neil gives 615 excellent tested 
recipes. Also contains a "Calendar of Dinners" — a dinner menu for every 
day in the year. The Calendar tells tx7/«/j the recipes tell ho^iv. Book 
also contains cookery hints and the interesting story of Crisco' s develop 
ment. Bound in blue and gold cloth. To those answering this 
advertisement it will be sent for fi-vr 2-cent stamps. Address 
Department A- 10 The Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
229 



230 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Query No. 2222. — "Recipe for a New Eng- 
land Boiled Dinner." 

New England Boiled Dinner 

A New England Boiled Dinner con- 
sists of boiled corned beef and pork, 
boiled potatoes, cabbage, turnips, beets 
and carrots ; boiled Indian meal pudding, 
eaten with molasses, formerly finished 
the dinner; but, at the present day — 
especially at the family table^corned 
pork is omitted and a baked pudding 
takes the place of the steamed one. The 
corned meats are set to cook in cold 
water, very early in the morning; if 
there be time, the cabbage, potatoes, tur- 
nips a.>id cairots are cooked in the salt 
liquid, after the removal of the meat. 
The beets, which require long cooking, 
are set to cook, separately, early in the 
day. The following recipe for a baked 
Indian pudding is especially good. 

Baked Indian Pudding 

Scald one pint of milk; add half a 
cup of fine-chopped suet and four table- 
spoonfuls of cornmeal mixed with one 
cup of cold water; stir constantly until 
the mixture thickens a little, then add 
two beaten eggs, one cup of molasses, 
half a teaspoon ful, each, of salt and 
ginger and one teaspoonful of cinnamon. 
Bake in a buttered pudding dish half 
an hour, then pour on half a cup of 
milk and bake, without stirring, in the 
milk two hours in a moderate oven. 
Serve with hard sauce or cream. 



Query No. 2224. — "Recipe for Almond 
Cake." 

Almond Cake No. 1 



Query No. 2223. — "Recipe for Apple 
Sauce Cake in which the sauce is a part of 
the cake mixture." 

Apple Sauce Cake 



i cup butter 

1 cup sugar 

1 tgg, beaten light 

1 cup raisins 

1 cup currants 

If cups sifted flour 



1 level teaspoonful 
soda 

1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 

i teaspoonful cloves 

1 cup hot thick apple 



Mix in the usual manner; bake in a 
tube-pan lined with buttered paper 
nearly one hour and a half. The heat 
of the oven should be moderate. 



H cups flour 

1 level teaspoonful 

baking powder 
Grated rind 1 lemon 
i teaspoonful almond 

extract 



i cup butter 
1 cup sugar 
3 whole eggs 
^ cup blanched 

almonds, chopped 

fine 
J cup milk 

Mix the cake in the usual manner, 
adding the eggs, one at a time, unbeaten, 
to the butter and sugar creamed to- 
gether; then add the nuts, and, lastly, 
the flour and milk, alternately. Cover 
with a boiled frosting, sprinkle the 
frosting with sliced almonds, browned 
in the oven. 

Almond Cake No. 2 

i cup butter extract 

1 cup sugar 3 tgg whites 

i cup milk i cup blanched 

2 cups flour almonds 

3 teaspoonfuls baking Granulated sugar 
powder Boiled frosting 

i teaspoonful almond 

Mix the cake in the usual manner, 
and spread in two layer-cake pans. Split 
the almonds and set them, on edge, a lit- 
tle distance apart, in one layer of the 
dough. Dredge the top of the cake and 
nuts with granulated sugar. Let bake 
about twenty minutes. The decorated 
layer is for the top ; put the two layers 
together with boiled frosting (three- 
fourths cup sugar and one white of tgg), 
through which is stirred a few chopped 
almonds, and which is flavored with 
lemon and vanilla. 

Almond Cake No. 3 



flour 
5 egg whites 
i to 1 whole cup 

sweet almonds 
5 or 6 bitter almonds 



5 egg yolks 

Grated rind and juice 

i lemon 

1 cup sugar 

i cup potato flour or 

1 cup pastry (wheat) 

Mix and bake, in an unbuttered tube- 
pan, as a sponge cake, adding the nuts, 
chopped fine, to the yolks and sugar. 



Query No. 2225. — "Recipe for Caramel 
Cake and Caramel Frosting." 

Caramel Cake and Frosting 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





'f0eUf 



cUde^ 



If 



Only the best and purest malt 
vfaiegar-made in our own brewer-^ 
ies.on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England-is used. 



It Uke« over two years of careful preparatiOQ 

I a««ing to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 
A good wine cannot be made in a day— neither 
Holbroolc's Sauce. 



"It U better to om m 
•auce at all tkaa a mmm^ 
tkat is not Holbrook**." 



HOLBROOirS 

^QRGES^RSHIRE 

nsAUCE 



BELL'5 SEASONING FN 

Used by your Grandmother and every I 
Generation since to deliciously ^^=^'=^ 
flavor Dressings for Turkey, 
Chick.en,Game, Meats, Fish. 

A NICE TURKEY DRESSING. Toast 7 or 8 slices of white bread. Place in 
a deep disli, adding butter the size of an egg. Cover with hot water or milk to melt 
butter and make bread right consistency. Add one even tablespoon of Bell's 
Seasoning and one even teaspoon salt. "When well mixed stir in 1 or 2 raw eggs. 
For goose or duck add one raw onion chopped fine. 

JELLIED MEATS OR FOWL. 1 pint of cold meat or fowl, 1 teaspoon 
Bell's Seasoning,^ teaspoon salt, liquid enough to fill pint mould. Add to liquid wlien hot, 1 tablespoon 
granulated gelatine. Cool and sei've on abase of lettuce leaves over which thin sliced lemon is placed. 

DELICIOUS HOME MADE SAUSAGE. To each pound of fresh, lean pork add one level 
taljlespoon of Bell's Poultry Seasoning and VA even teaspoons salt. Sprinkle over the meat, cut 
fine, thoroughly mix to a stiff dough, then make into cakes and fry. 

"Will mail on receipt of six 2-cent stamps 10-cent can to flavor the DRESSING for 100 lbs. 
Meat or Poultry; or for twelve 2-cent stamps 25-cent can to flavor 300 lbs., and with each can 
our beautiful "Booklet" of valuable cooking recipes. 

For delicious Sausage flavor as directed, either with Bell's Spiced Poultry Seasoning, 
Bell's New England Sausage Seasoning, or Bell's White Sausage Seasoning. 

MADE ONLY BY THE WILLIAM G. BELL COMPANY, BOSTON, MASS. 




1521 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
231 



232 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



^ cup butter 
1 cup suRar 
3 egg yolks 

1 cup water 
3 teaspoonfuls cara- 
mel syrup 

2 cups sifted flour 
2 egg whites 

Mix the cake in the usual manner; 
bake in a sheet and cover with the frost- 
ing, boiled as for fondant and beaten 
into the white of egg, beaten dry. 



Frosting 

1 cup sugar 
i cup water 

2 tablespoonfuls cara- 
mel syrup 

1 egg white 

1 teaspoonful vanilla 



Query No. 2226. — "Recipe for Baked 
Beans." 

Boston Baked Beans 



1 teaspoonful salt 

2 tablespoonfuls 
molasses or sugar 



1 pint pea beans 
1 teaspoonful soda 
i a pound salt pork 
1 teaspoonful mus- 
tard 

Soak the beans in cold water (soft 
water preferred) over night. In the 
morning wash and rinse thoroughly, 
then parboil until they are soft enough 
to pierce with a pin and no longer. 
Change the water while parboiling, al- 
ways using boiling water for cooking 
and rinsing. During the last boiling add 
soda. Rinse thoroughly in hot water. 
Put one-half of the beans in the bean- 
pot. Pour scalding hot water over the 
salt-pork and score the rind in half- 
inch strips. Put into the bean-pot above 
the beans and pour in the remainder of 
the beans. Mix the mustard, salt, and 
molasses, or sugar, with hot water and 
pour over the beans ; add boiling water 
to cover. Bake about eight hours in a 
moderate oven. Keep the beans covered 
with water and, also, the cover on the 
pot until the last hour. The pork may 
be drawn to the surface and browned 
during the last hour. 

Baked Beans, Spanish Fashion 



1 pint dried beans 
1 teaspoonful soda 
Sweet red peppers 



1 teaspoonful salt 

2 slices bacon 
Tomato puree 



Use yellow eyed, Lima, or dark kidney 
beans as desired. Let soak in cold 
water overnight. Drain, rinse and set 
to cook in cold water; let simmer until 
the skins are somewhat tender; drain 



and rinse with cold water. Turn a layer 
of beans into a baking dish, sprinkle 
on red peppers, chopped fine, also a few 
bits of bacon; continue the layers until 
the beans are used ; add the salt and to- 
mato puree to cover the beans. Bake 
two or three hours, or until the beans 
are tender. More tomato may be added 
as needed. To secure the puree press 
cooked tomatoes through a sieve fine 
enough to exclude the seeds. 



Query No. 2227. — "Recipe for a rather sour 
piccalilli." 

Piccahlli 

Chop fine half a peck of green toma- 
toes, one head of cabbage, fifteen white 
onions and ten large green cucumbers. 
Put a layer of vegetables into a porcelain 
dish and sprinkle with salt ; continue the 
layers of vegetables and salt until all are 
used ; let stand over night, then drain, 
discarding the liquid. Heat three quarts 
of cider vinegar, three pounds of brown 
sugar, one-fourth a cup of tumeric, one- 
fourth a cup of black pepper seed, one 
ounce of celery seed, three-fourths a 
pound of mustard seed and three red 
peppers, chopped fine, to the boiling 
point, and pour over the vegetables. Let 
stand over night, then drain the liquid 
from the vegetables, reheat and again 
pour over the vegetables ; repeat this 
process the third morning, then, when 
the mixture becomes cold, stir into it 
one-fourth a pound of ground mustard 
and one teaspoonful of curry powder, 
mixed with one cup of olive oil and one 
quart of vinegar. Less sugar may be 
used if desired. 



Query No. 2228. — "Recipe for Tomato 
Catsup." 

Tomato Catsup 



* bushel tomatoes 
6 large onions 
2 cups granulated 

sugar 
i cup salt 
li quarts white wine 

vinegar 
4 red peppers, 



chopped fine 

1 teaspoonful whole 
cloves 

2 teaspoonfuls stick 
cinnamon 

1 teaspoonful allspice 
1 nutmeg 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



^Says Simon Sink, 

I do not think 

I could much stouter be, 

Old Dutch you know, 

A healthy gtow 

Has always ^iven me? 



-<f 






'Id Dutcn 
Cleanser 



Chases 
Dirt 



<*> 



//I// 



^^S^imHiNG-^picK-::!!^ 



On written request we will mail— free of charge — a booklet, " The Spicanspan Folks" containing six beautiful 
colored prints especially designed for all young folks, ''Old Dutch^^ 12^ West Monroe St. Chicago 

Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
233 



234 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cut the tomatoes and onions in pieces 
and let boil until tender; strain and add 
the other ingredients, the spices tied in 
a bag for removal. Let boil four hours. 
Bottle while hot. 



Query No. 2229. — "Recipe for Oyster 
Broth for an invalid." 

Oyster Broth 

Scrub and wash a dozen oyster shells, 
then open, reserving all the liquid ; chop 
or cut the oysters in bits with a silver- 
plated knife. Cover the bits of oysters 
and liquid with one cup of cold water 
and let heat slowly to the boiling point, 
stirring frequently meanwhile; let sim- 
mer very gently five minutes and strain ; 
add about one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt and turn into a hot bowl. Fresh- 
opened oysters are preferable, but fresh 
oysters in bulk may be used. Half the 
quantity of water may be taken, then 
after straining, add half a cup of hot 
milk. To increase the nutritive value — 
when necessary — the beaten yolk of an 
egg mixed with one or two tablespoon- 
fuls of cream or milk may be stirred 
into the liquid, just before removal from 
the fire. The broth must not boil after 
the addition of the egg. 



Query 2213. — "Give a menu for one day 
for a young man at work out of doors all 
day." 

Menu for Young Man at Work 

(Open air, cool day) 

Breakfast 

Hot Cereal, Thin Cream or whole Milk 

Two Slices Bacon 

One Egg, cooked in shell 

Bread and Butter 

Two Doughnuts 

Cocoa or Coffee 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak, Baked Potato, or 

Neck of Lamb Stew 

(potatoes, onion, carrots) 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Baked Cornmeal Pudding 

(made with suet) 

Supper 

Shelled Beans, Stewed (hot) 

Bread and Butter 

Apple Sauce or 

Baked Apples 

Spice Cake or Chocolate Cookies 



Coupe Topo Pino 

In long-stemmed glasses with handles 
set two sunshine strawberries with a 
tablespoonful of the strawberry syrup; 
above set a rounding spoonful of vanilla 
ice cream made with junket; in this 
place a tip of fir balsam with the 
''needles" removed with the exception 
of a few at the top; sprinkle the top of 
the cream with blanched pistachio nuts, 
shredded to simulate the needles re- 
moved. 

Junket Ice Cream 

Heat one quart of rich "whole" milk, 
one cup of double cream, one cup of 
sugar and one tablespoonful of vanilla 
to about 80° F. Add one junket tablet, 
crushed and dissolved in a tablespoonful 
of cold water; mix and let stand in the 
can of the freezer to jelly. When jel- 
lied, chill and freeze. Three times the 
recipe will be needed to serve twenty- 
five people. 



A New Yorker was spending a night 
at a "hotel" in a Southern town, and 
told the colored porter that he wanted 
to be called early. The porter replied: 
"Say, boss, I reckon yo' ain't familiar 
with these heah modern inventions. 
When yo' wants to be called in de 
mawnin', all yo' has to do is jest to 
press de button at de head of yo' bed. 
Den we comes up and calls yo'." 



REFRIGERATORS-ICE BOXES 

and all places where meats and foodt 

are kept should be regularly disinfected 

and purified by using 

Piatts Chlorides . 

The Odorless DisinfectnnL 

Destroys germs and foul odors, does not 
permeate the food. 

Safe, Efficient and Economical. Sold Everywhere 

HENRY B. PLATT 
42 Cliff Street, New York City, N. Y. 



Menu for Thanksgiving Dinner 

Oyster Soup, English Soup Biscuits 

Celery Olives Pickles 

Fillets of Fresh Fish, Poulette 

Buttered Potato Balls with Chopped Parsley 

Philadelphia Relish in Lemon Cups 

Roasted Chickens, Giblet Sauce 

Small Sausage Cakes 

Kornlet Fritters 

Sweet Pickled Peaches or Mangoes 

Cranberry Frappe 

Hot Baked Ham, Currant Jelly Sauce 

Candied Sweet Potatoes 

Green Pepper-and-Endive Salad 

(Sprinkled with Minute Pearl Onions) 

Pumpkin Pie 

Coffee Parfait 

Assorted Nuts Raisins Weisbaden Prunes 

Half Cups of Coffee 

^ ^^ ^^ 



Menu for High Tea, Thanksgiving Evening 



Smoked Salmon Canapes 

Chicken a la King on Toast 

Celery Olives Salted Almonds 

Lettuce, Pear-and-Cream Cheese Salad, Tango Dressing 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Ginger Ice Cream 

Macaroons 

Coffee 

















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American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



NOVEMBER, 1914 



No. 4 



Cups of Roman Days 

By T. C. O'Donnell 



PETRONIUS, an eminent Roman 
who wrote history and near his- 
tory, relates an incident concern- 
ing the Emperor Tiberius that is too 
good to be true, for it aptly illustrates 
the culpability — we resist the tremend- 
ous temptation to say "cupability" — oi 
the attitude of most of those ancient 
rulers toward art. A certain worker, 
skilled in the making of beautiful vases 
and cups, according to Petronius, 
wrought a veritable masterpiece, a crys- 
tal chalice of ravishing beauty, and of 
the strength of gold or silver, and car- 
ried it to Tiberius. His imperial majesty 
was lavish in praise of the workman's 
genius, while his enthusiasm knew no 
bounds when the artist took the cup and 
threw it with all his might upon the 
marble pavement with no effect save 
a small dent, which yielded readily to the 
touch of a hammer. Suddenly the im- 
perial countenance became grave. Tibe- 
rius asked the subject whether he alone 
understood the secret of working so 
wonderfully in crystal. The artist 
promptly responded in the affirmative, 
when Tiberius ordered that the man be 
deprived of his head: ''for," said he (in 
effect) ''if the people get wise to his 
methods, it'd be good night to gold and 
silver; they'd be absolutely valueless." 

The incident is less interesting as a 
sidelight on Tiberius' philosophy of eco- 
nomics, than as an illustration of the 
consummate art with which the Romans 
made their drinking utensils. So beau- 



tiful are some of the specimens, which 
have come down to us, that one wonders 
whether the exquisite wines that graced 
the tables were not first made for the 
cups, rather than the wines for the 
chalices. The Greeks, before them, of 
course, were devoted to their cups, quite 
apart from their association with wine. 
They regarded them as sacred relics, 
handed down from father to son, and 
used them only on important occasions. 




DRINKING CUP IN FORM OF EAGLE'S HEAD 



267 



268 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




CUP OF TERRA COTTA IX FORM OF PIG'S 
PIEAD, (FOUND AT HERCULAXEUM) 

Did not Qidipus, for instance, inveigh 
against his son, Polynices, for bringing 
out for use at a common meal a cup 
that had come down from his ancestors? 

The earhest drinking cups were plain 
enough, made from the horns of cattle, 
or of animals killed in the chase. The 
Athenians' cups were of this kind, and 
decorated with borders and scrolls^ 
which, as examples of Greek art and 
quite apart from their utility, would 
alone justify the existence of the cups. 
The savage Gaul, too, was in the habit 
of removing the horns from the wild 
ox he had slain, adorning them with gold 
and silver rings and setting them before 
his guests at table. 

The drinking cups, in vogue, in the 
Rome of the Empire, however, were 
different, reflecting the luxury that char- 



acterized the times. Art treasurers 
brought to Rome by conquering consuls, 
while they in part satisfied the demand 
for works of art, at the same time stim- 
ulated the demand, with the result that 
some of the prices paid by connoisseurs 
were fabulous. One consul, for in- 
stance, paid $30,000 for a murrhine cup, 
while the Emperor Xero spent, it is 
creditably reported, $140,000 for a mur- 
rhine vase with two handles. 

These murrhines are the wonder and 
the mystery of collectors. They are 
variously said to have been made of 
mother-of-pearl, of an onyx-like stone, 
of agate, while Propertius, a Roman 
writer, is responsible for the suggestion 
that these wonderful art treasures are 
little more than a sort of porcelain, the 
Parthians presumably having learned the 
art of baking the porcelain from the 
Chinese. 

It is probable, however, that the mur- 
rhines. most of them at least, were made 
of sardonyx, in proof of which the fol- 
lowing incident has been quoted: In 1791 
a committee appointed by the French 
revolutionary government to appraise 
the property in the possession of the 
Crown, discovered two exquisite speci- 
mens of sardonyx ware, which they 
identified as murrhines. One of these 
was in the form of an ewer, the other 
of a bowl, the latter being veined with 
the most delicate of markings of blue 
and other shades, without interfering 
with its transparenc} . These murrhines 




CUP, EITHER OF GOLD. SU.VER OR TERRA COTTA 



CUPS OF ROMAN DAYS 



269 




GLASS BOTTLE WITH CUP FOR EACH GUEST 

were unadorned by engravings of any 
kind, but the beauty of the material and 
finish made them worth, in the eyes of 
the experts, thirty thousand dollars 
apiece. 

Lest these prices seem fabulous, let 
us recall a legend of a murrhine vase, 
belonging to the Duke of Brunswick, 
which was valued at $150,000. This 
specimen was only two and one-half 
inches in diameter, and had no handle, 
but it was engraved wnth figures setting 
forth the rites of Bacchus and Ceres, 
and was of a most perfect specimen of 
sardonyx. 

Where did the ancients quarry such 




CUP IN FORM OF A RAM'S HEAD 

beautiful stone? Gold cups there were, 
likewise silver, both engraved by excep- 
tional artist-engravers, but in point of 
sheer beauty, the murrhines stood alone. 
Or if the material was indififerent, until 
transformed into objects of priceless art, 
where is the genius of yesteryear? 



Comrades 



I was busy with the needle 
When our little man, one day, 
Loaded down with tools and kindling. 
Rushed in to me from his play. 



On the rounds went,— one, two, three, four- 
Then the heavy hammer fell, 
And the weary little workman 
Raised a face all sorrowful. 



"Auntie, I'm a-goin' to make a ladder 
That will reach way to the sky. 
Then you and I can climb upon it 
Up to heaven, by and by." 



" 'Taint no use ! I cannot do it ! 
Heaven's so far, don't you see? 
Why! A hundred rounds won't reach it, 
.A.nd I'm tired as I can be." 



It was such a sweet child-fancy 
That I answered not a word, 
And he went to work with fervor. 
Knowing not my eyes were blurred. 



Tenderly I kissed the forehead. 
Murmuring as I wiped a tear, 
"Listen ; we don't need a ladder. 
For heaven, sweetheart mine, is here." 

Lucia Wells Eames. 




LYGON ARMS. BROADWAY GREEN 



The English Broadway 

By M. O. Howes 



WE arrived at the "Lygon 
Arms," on Broadway Green, 
in a dismal English rain, and 
the old sixteenth-century hostelry pre- 
sented anything but a cheerful climax to 
a day's journey through a dripping 
country. Though the door stood hospi- 
tably opened, it was so dark in the an- 
cient hall that we stumbled blindly after 
a smart "manageress," who conducted 
us up a winding and uneven staircase to 
the massive oak door of the King 
Charles room, which was to be our pri- 
vate sitting-room for some weeks. 
Within its gloomy and sacred precincts 
she left us to take off our things and 
make ourselves at home! Sister Ann 
looked dolefully at the black oak wains- 
coting and the tiny leaded panes of the 
latticed windows with their stone sills. 
"It gives me the cold shivers," she de- 
clared. *'I wish that we had not aspired 
to such elegance. A plain bedroom could 



not have so many sliadowy corners, at 
any rate." The plain bedroom adjoin- 
ing, however, offered no place to sit. 
for it was completely filled with a mon- 
ster four-poster and two massive bu- 
reaus ; when our trunks were placed by 
a sturdy porter in a green baize apron, 
we had to sidle in and out. 

Our first move toward being at home 
was to ring for a fire, which was lighted 
by a decorous maid, and reinforced by 
an apple-cheeked boy with a brass scut- 
tle of cannel coal. The magic of its light 
and warmth gave us courage to sit up 
and look around. An ancient black oak 
table stood on a handsome old rug in 
the centre of the room. Some artistic 
soul had thrown across it a runner with 
a rich-hued Oriental border, and above 
hung a shaded lamp. By the fireplace a 
high-backed, but low-seated, Davenport, 
upholstered in soft green velvet, made a 
blessed ingle nook, and there were two 

270 



THE ENGLISH BROADWAY 



271 



big chairs of a like yielding nature. A 
small writing-table filled one of the win- 
dows, which opened on hinges over the 
village street, and a quanit old jug of 
sweet peas stood on the stone sill. When 
we had unpacked our books and hung 
up our clothes, we ordered tea, with a 
rising spirit of enjoyment, in spite of 
the rivulets running down the dim panes. 
The demure maid brought a tray, with 
pretty cottage china, and the teapot 
smothered in a comfortable "cosy." 
There was a plentiful supply of thin- 
sliced buttered bread, delicious plum 
jam, and imitation Paris cakes, which 
we scorned. 

"This is real England," we agreed, 
sipping our tea lingeringly, gloating over 
the old oak panelling and a dim painting 
of King Charles, which steadfastly re- 
garded us from its shadowy corner. The 
fire and the tea had done their work ; 
we had heart now to examine our 
transitory treasures and admire the col- 
lection of old blue china which was so 
charming against the wainscot. Our tea 
things were put away in an oak cup- 
board, curiously carved, which we 
learned later was one of the rare bits 
of a rare collection. When the dinner 
gong sounded, dressed in our crumpled 
best, we cautiously descended the un- 
certain stairs, at the head of which two 
white-capped maids stood at attention. 
"To safeguard the portable antiques," 
said Sister Ann, refusing to be im- 
pressed. There were two dining-rooms, 
one original and one restored, the latter 
a noble room, with a barrel-shaped ceil- 
ing, a gallery at one end, and two large 
bays fronting on the village street. Our 
host explained that in its reconstruction 
much old material from dismantled 
houses in the neighborhood had been 
used ; and certainly the effect was per- 
fectly harmonious. We had never seen 
in England a handsomer or more digni- 
fied room. Its furnishings represented 
notable treasures of the Tudor and 
Jacobean periods. A rich subdued color- 
inis: derived from Oriental carpets, old 



paintings and glass, betrayed the artistic 
hand again, and it seemed a pity that 
only eight people sat down to dinner 
that night. At the next table was a 
majestic English dowager, who swept 
to her seat with a ponderous rustle of 
black silk and jingle of jet; her white 
hair was wonderfully coiffured in layers 
of puffs, and she spoke with what we 
supposed was a high-bred English ac- 
cent. Her mysterious companion wore 
a cap with a white veil floating out be- 
hind, and it was hard to conjecture 
whether she was in some religious order 
or merely a privileged nurse. Facing us 
was a meek and mild little gentleman, 
who, we were afterwards astonished to 
learn, was a retired army officer, and a 
prim maiden daughter, dressed in a style 
in vogue in the United States some four 
or five years ago. The dinner was 
typically English, served by a correct 
man-servant and his assistants. If we 
had been new to England, we might 
have been disappointed that this charm- 
ing old inn, which satisfied the eye so 
completely, could offer so little to satisfy 
the appetite, but we knew quite well that 
in rural England one eats but to live. 
We dined solemnly, the twilight en- 
hanced by candles, on a spiritless soup, 
not quite hot, sole, roast lamb and slimy 
spinach, a currant tart composed of par- 
tially cooked fruit under a pastry lid, 
and crackers and cheese, the latter of- 
fered in a five-pound lump to be sliced 
at will, — an extremely awkward pro- 
ceeding. 

The correct man-servant circulated 
among the guests, pad in hand, taking 
orders for breakfast. We said "fruit," 
inwardly smiling. He looked serious. 
He was "sorry," but there was no fruit, 
unless, hopefully, we cared for stewed 
plums. "No?" Then we would have 
oatmeal. He looked troubled. "Por- 
ridge," he admitted, might be served 
with a private sitting-room, but it was 
not customary. Pitying his evident em- 
barrassment. Sister Ann relented and 
murmured "kippers," which at once re- 



272 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



stored his composure. England is always 
sure of its kippers, and we enjoyed them 
next morning in the twice-beautiful 
dining-room as revealed by a bright sun. 
We ate our cold toast and marmalade 
with a good grace, — the porridge not 
forthcoming, — even drinking the coffee, 
so absorbed were we in the village chil- 
dren passing on their way to school, the 
house-wife returning from market, the 
nurse with flying cap strings trundling 
a high-born baby, and the English girls 
with their stout canes. The Lygon by 
sunlight was all that heart could desire ; 
its four beautiful gables ceased to be 
sombre, and the old stone took on a 
pleasing color ; the lower walls were 
covered with creepers, on one side of 
the fine Jacobean doorway, and with an 
old pear tree on the other, making a ro- 
mantic exterior, the chief jewel of 
Broadlway's treasures, strung along a 
wonderful mile of village street, where 
ivy-hung stone houses, great and small, 
vie with one another for favor. 

We came to take very kindly to the 
ghost of King Charles, and when the last 



thing at night we sat before our fire, 
contentedly doing nothing but dreamily 
watching the cheerful flames, leaping 
fitfully up the wide chimney, we tried 
to imagine him with his army, marching 
over these peaceful Cotswold hills, with 
colors flying, to Broadway, "where he 
lay," as the Guide Book has it, and more- 
over lay in our very bedroom, if history 
may be credited. 

We wondered how we could have ever 
felt dismal in this treasure chamber, 
and the days sped all too quickly by; 
for even with a motor, which could be 
had for the hiring, we could not exhaust 
the secluded nooks of lovely W^orcester- 
shire. Many of our pilgrimages, how- 
ever, were undertaken in a dignified Vic- 
toria, with a coachman in livery, sitting 
above us, for we loved the leisurely 
gait of the fat horse along these charm- 
ing roads, lined with beautiful trees, — 
cedars, oaks, and graceful elms, — all 
healthy and vigorous. Wild flowers 
peeped from the hedges, and whole fields 
of l^rilliant scarlet poppies nodded among 
the grains, while the English sky is al- 




RURAL ENGLAND 



THE ENGLISH BROADWAY 



273 



ways so full of clouds that sunshine and 
shadow chased each other over the dis- 
tant hillsides in merry fashion. But 
only the motor carried us over the hills 
and far away, for we frequently found 
ourselves ''spelling" the fat horse up 
long, steady inclines, often outstripping 
him, and sitting down by the roadside 
to wait for our chariot, then to jog on 
again through rose-embowered hamlets 
of thatch and timber, with an occasional 
rattle over the cobbles of a market town, 
— to find on returning that we had ac- 
complished, perhaps, twelve miles ! 

Out in the open country we passed 
acres of flourishing strawberry beds, 
which excited our envy, for none ever 
appeared on the table at the Lygon, ex- 
cept in " the guise of preserves, and 
though the Guide Book asserted that the 
neighborhood was the centre of straw- 
berry culture, we did not even see them 
in the market. But one day, chancing to 
stop before a cottage window, a modest 
little sign in pencil on a slip of paper 
met our eye: "Strawberries 2i/^d." 
We eagerly bargained for the entire 
stock, carrying back, in a second-hand 
paper bag, about two pounds, all for ten 
cents. It took some courage to hand 
that paper bag to the dignified person- 
age in the dining-room, requesting him 



to serve them at lunch, but it was done, 
and he placed them before us with a 
supercilious air, hulls on. 

There never seemed to be many peo- 
ple staying at the Inn, but the afternoons 
w^ere busy with motor parties, who 
stopped to admire the house and have 
tea in the famous dining-room, for 
Broadway is only ninety miles from 
London on the main Worcester road, as 
an ancient milestone in the village street 
proclaims, and furnishes an enjoyable 
climax to a spin from town. From our 
window, just above the door, we watched 
them coming and going; very grand 
folks, some of them, with imposing cars, 
for most of the humbler sort, riding 
motor cycles, with wifey snugly tucked 
in a basket attachment, passed us by 
for the unpretending "Coach and 
'Osses" up the road. 

I think it was largely a hunger for 
French cooking, mingled with a longing 
for unadulterated sunshine, that finally 
reconciled us to our departure. The 
green-aproned porter, gazing skyward, 
didn't "like the look of it," as he tucked 
us in, bound stationward, but he did like 
the look of what we left in his hand, 
and we picture him still broadly smiling 
on the worn door-stone, as we turned to 
face the pleasures that we knew not of. 



A Mountain Sunrise 



Ethereal light illumines the night, 

God's twinkling lanterns blending ; 

Wee liglits that grace the boundless space, 

A lonely world befriending. 

Hush, nature, hush, the night is dying, dying. 

Awake, awake, with thee the dawn is vying. 



A purpled mien imbues the scene 

With opalescent beauty. 

Proclaiming through the tenuous blue 

Aurora's call to duty. 

Hush, nature, hush, the night is dying, dying. 

Awake, awake, with thee the dawn is vying. 



In rapturous gaze, we watch the haze 

Unveiling mountain ranges. 

Its silvern rays their summits graze 

With scintillating changes. 

Hush, nature, hush, the night is dying, dying, 

Awake, awake, with thee the dawn is vying. 



The day begun : the risen sun 
With full and radiant power, 
Awakes the earth from work and mirth, 
Each passing golden hour. 
Hush, nature, hush, no longer night is dying. 
Awake, awake, with thee the sun is vying. 
Caroline L. Sumner. 



The Little Brown House and a Thanksgiving Dinner 

By Alice Margaret Ashton 



MARIANNA'S mouth expressed 
unmistakable displeasure. Her 
eyes had the look of a girl who 
had waited two futile hours for the ap- 
pearance of her escort. Her nose — well, 
it looked like any very pretty nose after 
it has been buried for many stormy 
minutes in a tear-drenched pillow. 

But Marianna's voice through the 
transmitter was distinctly cheerful. 
Professor Travis thought he even de- 
tected a laugh beneath its surface, and 
floundered more hopelessly in his ago- 
nized explanation. 

"Miss Fulton called up this morning, 
suggesting that it was just the day to 
get the illustrations for those articles I 
have been doing, and — I went. I en- 
tirely forgot about my engagement with 
you!" 

"Of course," interrupted Marianna's 
cheerful tone, "I knew it was not inten- 
tional, Professor Travis." 

"But I ought to have remembered — I 
have no excuse for allowing business to 
interfere with pleasure to that extent." 

"Doesn't that depend," suggested 
Marianna a bit wickedly, "upon how- 
pleasant the business is, or how busi- 
nesslike the pleasure?" 

"It does not !" came the answer, sav- 
agely emphatic. "Fm coming over to 
see you this evening." 

"Oh, I am so — sorry," apologized 
M'arianna hesitatingly. 

"Then, Fll come in the morning; you 
certainly cannot have an engagement at 
that hour. If you never let me speak to 
you again, you must allow me to make 
you an adequate apolog)' !" 

"Better call up before you come," she 
cautioned, noncommitally. "I cannot be 
at all certain of receiving you, and 
morning hours are precious to a scien- 
tist." 



Yet Marianna made preparation for 
his appearance next morning by donning 
her most frivolous and becoming break- 
fast gown. "He despises the sort of 
girl I am," she murmured with perverse 
satisfaction as she settled the close little 
lace cap upon her bright curls. 

"I've come," Professor Travis an- 
nounced grimly an hour later as he en- 
tered her breakfast room. Then he 
caught his breath at the picture she made 
in the early golden sunlight. 

"So I see," admitted Marianna de- 
murely, not unmindful of his eloquent 
hesitation. "Will you let me give you 
coffee?" 

"I deserve no such kindness at your 
hands," he answered a little wistfully. 
"I had to come, but I do not know what 
to say to you. I've no excuse to offer; 
I do not dare hope for your pardon. I 
can only say I am sorry — sorry!" 

"But I have always supposed that for- 
getfulness was an acknowledged prerog- 
ative to one of your profession," she 
smiled. Perhaps we do not expect you 
to remember mere frivolous things like 
other men."^ 

A dull red mounted to the man's tem- 
ples. "Oh, I deserve to be punished all 
right," he admitted grimly. 

"Punished! Do you think I should 
presume to punish you? Or to blame 
you if you find me less interesting than 
the combined attraction of Miss Fulton 
and the illustrations?" Marianna's face 
expressed only innocent amazement. 
"Were they good?" she added as an af- 
terthought. 

Quite unexpectedly John Travis strode 
round the little table and seized both of 
Marianna's pretty alluring hands. "I'd 
rather have you angry than like — this," 
he said miserably. "It means you do 
not care enough about what I do to get 



274 



THE LITTLE BROWN HOUSE 



275 



angry, or else that you are too angry to 
let me see how you do feel." 

''What an amazing idea," Marianna 
murmured, leaving her hands, soft and 
useless as a child's, in his. She remem- 
bered with impish delight that Miss 
Fulton's hands were brown and strong 
from long hours of work and play in the 
open. 

"Will you come out with me this af- 
ternoon?" he begged. 

The head under the demure lace cap 
shook a gentle negative. 'Tm not the 
sort of girl upon whom you ought to 
be squandering your afternoons," she 
reminded him. 

"I am the judge of that," he said 
sternly. 

''Or your mornings, either," she added, 
drawing away her hands, determinedly. 

"You are still angry. Oh, I do not 
blame you. But is there nothing I can 
do to make amends?" 

"You might," suggested Marianna 
thoughtfully, "you might send me a set 
of the illustrations?" 

John Travis made his adieu exceed- 
ingly brief. The set little smile on 
Marianna's lips remained until she 
heard the last indignant echo of his de- 
parting footsteps. Then she shut her 
eyes to keep back the hot tears she 
would not shed for any man. "Oh," she 
whispered. "Oh !" 

The little brown house stood back 
within its picket-fenced, tree-shaded sol- 
itude as if alarmed and somewhat sus- 
picious of the modern progress at its 
very gates. In those sunny days when 
Professor Travis went freely to the 
home of Marianna he had taken her oc- 
casionally to the little brown house, and 
to Aunt Rhoda, as brown and retiring 
and suspicious as the abode which shel- 
tered her. 

But oftener, to Aunt Rhoda's dis- 
pleasure, he had taken the strong and 
capable Miss Fulton. He seemed re- 
luctant about taking Marianna, as if the 
old brown house Were too common and 
plain for this girl who seemed to be a 



rose when he was with her and a butter- 
fly when he viewed her from the sane 
seclusion of his own study. 

"I suppose," muttered Marianna, stop- 
ping to latch the gate and remembering 
thereby those past visits, "I suppose he 
thinks I'm not fine enough to appreciate 
all this darling old place means, if he 
thinks about it at all — any more !" 

During all the long walk in the chill 
November gloom Marianna had busily 
pictured the little house and Aunt Rhoda. 

"There will be pies making on the 
day before Thanksgiving," she assured 
herself, "and I'll smell the spices and the 
raisins when I open the" front door. 
There will be cakes to ice, and maybe 
she'll give me the bowl to scrape after- 
ward! There will be apples to polish 
and nuts to crack and stuffing to put in 
the turkey." 

And at this stage of the preparation 
she reached the front door, thrust it 
open after her familiar little tattoo upon 
the scarred panel, and sniffed the air 
expectantly. 

"Come in," called Aunt Rhoda, dully, 
from the big front room. "I saw you 
coming up the walk, but I hadn't the 
heart to come to the door." 

"Why, I thought — "Marianna paused 
in the little hall-way, and sniffed again, 
disappointedly, "I thought you'd be get- 
ting ready for Thanksgiving, Aunt 
Rhoda." 

"Well, I'm not," announced Aunt 
Rhoda tragically from the depth of the 
big hair-cloth rocker. "I just cannot go 
at it. I've nothing to be thankful about 
and I'm tired of pretending." 

"Oh, Aunt Rhoda ! Not thankful for 
the dear little brown house and the big 
fireplace and the kitchen and the little 
corner-cupboards ?" gasped Marianna, 
unbelievingly. 

"No, I am not! They are just what 
make me unthankful ! Father left me 
this place when I was sixteen and I've 
carried it on my shoulders ever since. 
If it wasn't for this house, I could spend 
the winter with Cousin Marcia in 



276 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Georgia, as she keeps begging me to do. 
If it wasn't for this house, I could ac- 
cept this invitation," she paused to point 
dramatically at a letter spread open on 
her work-basket, "for a big Thanksgiv- 
ing day at Lucy's tomorrow and a thea- 
ter party tonight!" 

"O — h!" Marianna dropped on her 
knees on the braided mat in front of 
Aunt Rhoda's chair. She burrowed her 
elbows into Aunt Rhoda's gingham lap, 
and looked with deepest sympathy into 
Aunt Rhoda's stern countenance. ''Why 
don't you," she suggested, "just lock the 
door, put the key under the doorstep, 
and — go !" 

''You do not understand, Marianna," 
already some of the hopelessness had 
gone out of Aunt Rhoda's voice, ''you 
have servants to leave your house with 
when you wish to go. If I leave my 
house, the pipes will freeze and the pre- 
serves and the plants, and the cat and 
hens will starve. I cannot leave this 
house!" 

"But just over night," persisted 
Marianna. "You might take in the thea- 
ter party and the Thanksgiving dinner, 
it seems to me." 

"I wouldn't dare." Aunt Rhoda cast 
a fearful eye at the dull sky without. 
'Tt is going to turn cold, sure as fate. 
I'd have to be gone two nights. I don't 
dare risk it." 

"Oh, Aunt Rhada," the girl turned 
pale at the audacity of the idea that 
flashed upon her, "let me keep house for 
you, Aunt Rhoda." 

"No, no ! To give up all your Thanks- 
giving plans? And to build fires?" 
She lifted the girl's hands which were 
soft and inexperienced, and stroked them 
admiringly. "You'd be afraid nights, 
too ; I used to be at first." 

"But I'd love it, truly. Do you think 
you could trust me — I mean about the 
fires and not starving the cat?" 

"I am sure I could trust you," laughed 
Aunt Rhoda breathlessly. 

"And would you mind if I made a pie 
and stuflfed a turkey?" anxiously. 



"Good gracious, no, child. There's 
mince-meat in the pantry and a turkey 
hanging in the wood-house; I got that 
far before I reaHzed I wasn't thankful." 

"Then it is settled," Marianna de- 
clared decidedly. "First thing is to get 
you started on your journey." 

It was Marianna who packed the 
quaint Tittle traveling bag, forgetting 
nothing Aunt Rhoda would require on 
her short visit. It was she who tele- 
phoned from the grocery at the corner 
and who timed the carriage which 
brought her box of things from home 
so that it could take Aunt Rhoda to the 
station. It was Marianna who remem- 
bered to feed the chickens and the cat, 
to bank the kitchen fire, and to purchase 
raisins for the pie. And when she crept 
to the sloping chamber in one gable of 
the little brown house, she was too 
weary to think of anything except going 
peacefully to sleep. 

The thing that Aunt Rhoda predicted 
happened in the night. Marianna ad- 
mitted shiveringly, while she dressed in 
the uncertain dawn, that they were in 
the grip of a "cold spell". "Now," she 
said exultingly, "I'll have an excuse for 
keeping up a fire in the front room!" 

A house all to herself — not to mention 
the chicken-coop ! IMarianna poked 
about joyously in the fascinating corner- 
cupboards for provisions and sought 
eggs in the chicken-coop for her baking. 
In an incredibly short time the turkey 
reposed majestically at one end of the 
kitchen table ready for the oven. From 
the stove crept tantalizing odors of pies, 
rich and spicy. Unceremoniously the 
outer door opened and John Travis stood 
upon the threshold. 

"Oh, close the door," exclaimed 
Marianna. "You are letting that icy 
wind blow right over my cake." 

He closed the door obediently and 
with proper haste. "Where is Aunt 
Rhoda?" he questioned crisply, evidently 
remembering the coldness that separated 
them. 

"She's gone, for over Thanksgiving. 



THE LITTLE BROWN HOUSE 



277 



Tm keeping house," she explained pains- 
takingly. 

'*Ah !" He glanced about the homely, 
pleasant room, at the turkey and the 
cake and the girl in a white linen frock 
and an enveloping apron. 'T — I intended 
having dinner with Aunt Rhoda," he ex- 
plained in his turn. 

''Strange she forgot," Marianna 
mused. "She remembered everything, 
even the cat !" 

"I always have Thanksgiving dinner 
with her," he stated in an offended tone. 

*'So?" She wrinkled her brows 
thoughtfully. 'T thought last year — 
we — " 

"I had dinner here, early," he ob- 
served, more offended. 

"What a shame ! Why didn't you tell 
me about it? We might have come out 
here; it wasn't fair to Jier to run away 
like that!" 

"Well, she has paid me back properly 
this year," he admitted. "I had set my 
heart on having dinner here today. 
Thanksgiving at a club is little better 
than a mockery." 

"I suppose," Marianna thought audi- 
bly and with perplexity, "I suppose you 
might stay — if you are willing to help? 
I was busy yesterday getting Aunt 
Rhoda off on her jaunt, so there is a 
great deal to do." 

"You'll really let me stay?" Travis 
threw off his coat boyishly. "You bet 
I'll work!" 

"There is a lemon ice cooling in the 
woodhouse that you might freeze," she 
suggested severely. 

"All right, but I was hoping you 
might propose my scraping out the icing- 
bowl first." 

Marianna had not meant to laugh with 
him. She had not meant to be gay or 
natural before him. He* chose to con- 
sider her a butterfly. Well, let him think 
so! 

But there was no subduing this happy, 
boyish stranger. He scraped icing-bowls, 
sampled dressing, turned the creaking 
little freezer, and carried wood to the 



fire-place in the front room with un- 
abating cheerfulness. 

He even, during the interval after the 
turkey was in the oven, bundled a warm 
red coat over her apron and took her 
scurrying through the frosty brown grass 
along an old wall for bitter-sweet berries 
for their table. 

It was altogether a wonderful dinner. 
They ate slowly as if reluctant to have 
it come to an end. Outside, a storm had 
risen, beating with icy fingers upon the 
tiny panes of the wide, loose windows. 
But the faded old curtains and the glow 
of fire and candle light shut them within, 
a safe and cosy circle. 

"A real Thanksgiving dinner," he re- 
peated as he led her to the sofa drawn 
up before the fire. "I guess you do not 
realize what this sort of thing means to 
a fellow living as I do." 

"I've enjoyed it, too," admitted Mari- 
anna, demurely. She still wore, by spe- 
cial request, the enveloping apron over 
her linen frock. "I love to cook, you see, 
and I so seldom have an opportunity. I 
trust Aunt Rhoda will appreciate my 
endeavors at entertaining her guest." 

"At least, the guest is overwhelmingly 
appreciative," he declared convincingly. 

"Then tell me," INIarianna leaned to- 
ward his end of the long sofa with pretty 
confidence, "how did you happen to 
come?" 

"I — I met Aunt Rhoda on the train 
vesterdav," he admitted like a culprit. 

"Well'?" 

"I couldn't imagine her going any- 
where without the little brown house, 
you know. wSo I made inquiries, and — I 
wormed it out of her." 

"I supposed," murmured Marianna in 
an aggrieved tone, "that I could depend 
upon Aunt Rhoda." 

"So you can — with your life. She 
isn't conscious that she told me, bless 
her. She simply wouldn't tell — any- 
thing. And I said: Tf you refuse to 
tell, I'll go out there and see for myself; 
you needn't tell me you left the little 
brown house alone at its age !' 'Don't 



278 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



you dare go near it,' she said. 'Marianna 
would never forgive you !' " 

Their eyes met and they laughed. 'T 
knew she could not have known you 
were coming," she said accusingly. 

A wonder silence, such as can occur 
only in old houses, fraught with many 
memories, grew within the firelit circle. 
*'Marianna," he said at last, reaching 
along the old sofa for the tender little 
hand half hidden in the apron's folds, 
"Marianna, let's keep Aunt Rhoda's 
house for her and let her take that won- 
derful journey." 

''Oh," breathed Marianna, faintly. 

'T will feed the chickens and shovel 
paths and carry in wood, and you can 
light the candles and lay the plates and 
make pies like that one we had today." 

"Oh," breathed the girl, again. 

Now Marianna, be it known, was not 
inexperienced for one of her years. She 
had received proposals in fragrant con- 
servatories where wondrous music pulsed 
faintly, and in secluded and charming 
balconies. But they were not like this 
proposal in the firelight of the little 
brown room. 

"There is an old sewing-table up- 
stairs that we can bring down by the 
kitchen window for a desk — you shall 
have part of it for your sewing. And 



I'll promise to abide by the household 
rules and not 'mess up' the front room. 
Say you'll do it, Marianna!" 

"Oh, cant you see," wailed Marianna 
unhappily, "that I am not the sort of 
wife you ought to have ? You know you 
do not approve of me when you take 
time to really think. I can't illustrate 
your stuff or take notes or hunt refer- 
ences or even understand what you are 
writing about, and you know it!" 

Professor John Travis rose to his feet 
almost impatiently. 

"You can cook, can't you?" he de- 
manded sternly, holding her by her 
shoulders and compelling her attention. 

"Y-es," admitted IMarianna miserably. 

"A scientist needs to be fed like any 
other man, doesn't he?" 

"Y-es," admitted Marianna again. 

"Well, then?" he stated with trium- 
phant finality. 

An impetuous movement, and the ple- 
bian apron was crushed within his sci- 
entific coat-sleeves. "W^ell, then?" he 
whispered again and with exceeding 
tenderness. 

"I just adore those little corner- 
cupboards," sobbed Marianna from the 
vicinity of his necktie. 

And if Aunt Rhoda had but known it, 
her Southern journey was assured. 



Where Did It Go? 



Where did yesterday's sunset go, 

When it faded down the hills so slow, 

And the gold grew dim, and the purple light 

Like an army with banners passed from sight? 

Will its flush go into the goldenrod, 

Its thrill to the purple aster's nod, 

Its crimson fleck the maple bough. 

And the autumn-glory begin from now? 

Deeper than flower-fields sank the glow 
Of the silent pageant passing slow.* 



It flushed all night in many a dream, 
It thrlled in the folding hush of prayer, 
It glided into a poet's song, 
It is setting still in a picture rare; 
It changed by a miracle none can see 
To the shifting lights of a symphony, 
And in resurrection of faith and hope 
The glory died *on the shining slope, 

For it left its light on the hills and seas 
That rim a thousand memories. 

— William C. Gannett. 



Bob, Efficiency Expert 

By Margery Haven 



THEY had been married six 
months, and in all that time 
Peggy Gaston had never asked 
her husband to sit down to a meal of 
which she was ashamed. To fully ap- 
preciate this fact, it must be known that 
before becoming Peggy Gaston she had 
never had a closer relationship with a 
kitchen than with the one of a great 
aunt. And she had only made the ac- 
quaintance of this one in the brief vaca- 
tions of boarding school and college life. 
And then it was only to make candy or 
an egg lemonade. But once settled in 
her own little kitchen she hid the fail- 
ures and the burned fingers, and was 
rewarded by the fact that Bob spoke of 
her to his men friends as "the best little 
cook ever!" 

Suddenly, one night, in the midst of 
her smug complacency. Bob looked up 
from the magazine he was reading. 

"Peg," he said, with the frankness of 
husbands, "I think you make altogether 
too much fuss over this cooking busi- 
ness." 

She dropped her sewing in amaze- 
ment. 

"Why, what do you mean ?" 

"Just this," and he dug his hands 
down into his pockets and went on to 
explain. Peggy put up her sewing. She 
knew this position of old. It was the 
positive Bob who was talking now, — a 
Bob she loved, yet deplored. 

"You women spend too much time, 
relatively, on the preparation of the food 
we eat. It's not consistent. Now, I 
wager that it takes you an hour to get 
breakfast," and he looked at her as if 
he expected corroboration. "Isn't that 
so?" 

"Why, yes, I suppose so," faltered 
Pegg}^ 

"I thought so," he added, eagerly, 
without giving her time to tell of all 



the other things that she did in that 
ho^r. "Now that is all out of propor- 
tion. Suppose that we fellows spent an 
hour just in getting the day started. 
What would happen to the rubber busi- 
ness? Now, to-morrow's Sunday," he 
went on, warming up to his subject; 
"let me get breakfast. You can read the 
paper, as I do, and I guarantee that 
breakfast will be ready in half that time 
and that I won't come to the table hot 
and flurried. Let's try it." 

Peggy sat up straight in her chair. 
She was, indeed, hearing strange things. 
She felt a trifle indignant to hear the 
housekeeping, with which she had 
struggled so hard and yet so victoriously, 
criticised. But, as she had been mar- 
ried only six months, and as she was 
still very much in love with her good- 
looking husband, she assented, but her 
answer lacked the proper amount of en- 
thusiasm. Bob, being masculine, noticed 
not the indifferent tone, but upon look- 
ing up into his wife's face he felt that 
perhaps he had ventured too far. He got 
up and stood by her chair. 

"You don't think that I'm butting in, 
do you, sweetheart? I merely thought 
I could help you apply some of the same 
principles to your housework that we 
business men apply to our business ;" 
and because his tone was so serious and 
his face so infinitely boyish, she dimpled 
and reached up and rumpled his hair in 
a manner peculiar to women. 

"You must teach me lots," she whis- 
pered to his coat collar, "or else I never 
expect to make a fit sort of a wife for 
an important man such as you." 

"You kidder!" he scolded. 

The next morning Peggy was up and 
dressed before Bob had awakened for 
the first time. Sunday mornings he 
generally had to awake four times be- 
fore the process was full over with. 



279 



280 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Very silently she tip-toed about the din- 
ing-room, setting the table with the very 
nicest doily set she possessed. By agree- 
ment she could not step one inch over 
the kitchen door sill, but she was mak- 
ing it as easy for Bob as possible. Sev- 
eral heavy thuds, the splashing of cold 
water, and much rapid walking let her 
know that the man of the house was 
up, and she accordingly took up the 
morning paper and settled herself 
against his arrival. He ran downstairs 
and -stood in the dining-room door, look- 
ing at the prettily set table. 

''You're not playing fair," he observed. 

''Why, certainly I am !" and she looked 
casually up from the paper. 
"I always set the table the night before, 
anyway," she lied cheerfully. 

"All right. Breakfast in half an 
hour," and he went kitchenwards, 
whistling. 

Peggy put down her paper and fol- 
lowed him. "Really, Bob, I think I 
will get a great deal more benefit if I 
can stay here and watch, don't you? 
Then you can tell me just where to save 
time and steps," and she looked inno- 
cently up into his face. 

"All right. Peg," but his tone was 
not over-enthusiastic. He had given one 
look around the kitchen, and he was not 
quite sure just where to begin. 

"Now, the first thing that I would do 
would be to get all the things I am 
going to need from the ice-box and 
pantry," and that remark serving as a 
sort of an inspiration, he went ofif and 
returned, carrying grapefruit and cream. 
He then went to the pantry, bringing 
back the jar of coffee and the eggs. 
He laid these down beside the others 
and surveyed them. 

"The grapefruit might get warm, and 
the hot kitchen is hardly the place for 
the cream," Peggy suggested. 

"That's so," he assented, eagerly, as 
if the thought had struck him for the 
first time, and he picked up the articles 
and deposited them again in the ice- 
box. 



"Now," and his tone was almost ex- 
cited, "the first thing to do is to get the 
cofifee over and the rest is done very 
quickly and simply." He took up the 
percolator. Now, over a camp-fire there 
is no better maker of coffee than Bob 
Gaston. He could tell just by a look 
at the seething mass just when to put 
in cofifee and just when to remove from 
the fire. His cofifee had made certain 
wood-picnics a sacred memory. But 
he had never made himself familiar 
with the intricacies of a common ordi- 
nary percolator. He took it apart and 
laid the different parts, which in this 
case happened to be four, on the table 
and looked at them, defiantly. Slowly, 
but never hesitating, he picked up the 
empty pot, measured the cofifee into it, 
fitted together the remaining two parts, 
added the cold water, and placed the 
whole on the stove. 

Peggy opened and shut her mouth 
three times, then grew brave. "The 
cofifee goes in that little container," she 
ventured. "Then when the percolator 
is taken ofif the stove the cofifee remains 
of equal strength." 

"Why didn't you tell me?" and he 
scowled. "It's inefficient! That's what 
it is. It's too complicated. You never 
could expect a maid to understand that 
thing." 

Peggy wisely said nothing, and Bob 
removed -the pot from the stove, emptied 
it, and filled it again, — this time properly. 

"Now, while you are waiting for the 
water to boil for the eggs, you can cut 
the bread for the toast, fix the grape- 
fruit, and breakfast is ready to serve!" 
he announced, triumphantly. 

He put the little kettle containing the 
water over the hottest burner of the 
three, and set about cutting the bread. 
As the slices came out from under his 
hand, Peggy looked at him in wonder 
and admiration. They were of amazing 
thinness and evenness. Somehow, that 
was a thing which the bread knife abso- 
lutely refused to do for her. Conscious 
that PeggA^ was admiring. Bob had be- 



BOB, EFFICIENCY EXPERT 



281 



come so engrossed in his bread-cutting 
that he did not notice that the pile of 
white slices had grown enormously. 

"We don't eat so awfully much toast, 
Bobbie." 

''What? Oh — " and he eyed the pile 
a bit ruefully. "I cut enough for other 
mornings," he added, lamely; "it saves 
time." 

With the big carving knife still in 
his hand, he attacked the grapefruit. 
The white fibre was tough and the knife 
bungling. Pegg>' heard a muffled ex- 
clamation and saw red dripping from a 
cut thumb on her white oilcloth. 

''Oh, Bobbie!" and her tone was ma- 
ternal in its tenderness, "now you'll have 
to let me help." 

"Get out ! This is my job." He 
scowled a bit, sucked his thumb, and 
pushed her aw^ay. 

"This is the knife I always use for 
^^rapefruit," and she pulled open a 
drawer. 

He picked it up in silence. Just as 
he was finishing, they both became aware 
of an odor of heated, scorching metal. 
Bob ran to the stove and picked up the 
little kettle, empty. Peggy felt a pang 
when she looked at her best aluminum 
sauce-pan, but refrained from any com- 
ments. From which fact may be esti- 
mated just how much in love with her 
husband she was still. 

Bob was working now in feverish 
haste. He placed the fruit on the table, 
filled the kettle with water again for the 
eggs, and fixed the bread in the broiler, 
for he conceived this to be the quickest 
method of toasting. All this being ac- 
complished, he heaved a sigh, which he 
thought inaudible, and turned to his wife 
with a very satisfied air. 

"Now, you see how simple it is. 
Everything is done. I would even have 
time to read part of the paper while 
you were putting the final crimps in 
your hair. It all depends on the sys- 



tem and thought with which you do 
things," and, interested in his subject, 
he went on. 

Peggy looked at him, yet her gaze 
seemed to go through him and beyond, 
as if fascinated by something she saw 
there. Suddenly a cloud of smoke, a 
crisp crackling noise, and the odor of 
burned bread made him turn as if shot. 
Pegg>^ heard an emphatic "Damn!" and 
she fled. 

Not a great many minutes afterwards 
Peggy sat at the breakfast table, oppo- 
site a red, perspiring man. He poured 
her cofifee in silence, and after she had 
waited a few minutes, she said, in her 
most company manner : "Will you please 
pass the cream, Bobbie?" 

Bob gave one startled look over the 
table and left it precipitately. When he 
returned, he bore the overflowing pitcher 
of cream. Bob became engrossed in the 
paper, and when her fruit and coflfee 
were quite consumed, she again glanced 
over the table, and then cleared her 
throat. "I see by the paper this morn- 
ing that eggs have gone up." 

"What did you say?" and Bob peered 
over his paper. "Eggs gone up? Eggs! 
Hm!" and he also let his glance travel 
over the table. 

This time he arose from the table 
leisurely and came back from the 
kitchen, bearing the two eggs, which 
from their weight might be in any de- 
gree of hardness. Peggy accepted hers 
solemnly and ate it. Bob cracked his 
open, then pushed it away and disap- 
peared behind his newspaper again. For 
some minutes there was an ominous 
silence. Then Peggy broke it. 

"It looks very encouraging for the 
Allies this morning, doesn't it?" 

"Yes, I think it does," Bob answered, 
with a twinkle in his eyes, and laying 
down his newspaper. "Some people 
don't seem to know when they are 
beaten !" 



Beth's Unlocked For Crop 

By A. M. Gookstetter 



I THINK," said the physician, draw- 
ing on his gloves as he was pre- 
paring to leave, ''that your mother 
will be able to sit up and eat Thanks- 
giving dinner with you." 

Beth, the tall, slender, brown-eyed 
daughter of the house, barely seventeen, 
was so happy over the good news that 
she found herself humming a tune, as 
she went back through the hall into the 
living room. 

Time slipped by until it was the day 
before Thanskgiving. Anna, the maid, 
had finished baking the mince pies, and 
was preparing to commence the cake, 
when her brother came in from the 
country. Beth, going into the kitchen, 
heard him say, 

"But Anna, girl, you'll have to come ! 
Mother wants you. She can't get out of 
bed." 

Anna commenced to cry, but when 
Beth understood the condition of affairs 
at Anna's home she insisted on her go- 
ing. In less than ten minutes Anna was 
ready, and as Beth tucked the robe 
around Anna's feet in the old buckboard, 
she said, 

"Never mind, Anna. We'll get along 
all right. You've baked the pies, and 
I'm sure I can fix the turkey." Anna 
raised her thick, old-fashioned barege 
veil in order to reply, 

"Jones' boy is to bring the turkey this 
afternoon. It is to be dressed. All 
you'll have to do will be to stuff it." 

Anna and her brother drove away, 
leaving a very all-sufficient- feeling per- 
son in Beth, who was to remain at the 
helm until Anna's return. 

That afternoon, a messenger boy 
closely followed the delivery of the tur- 
key, and with fear and trembling did 
Beth sign the book for the message ad- 
dressed to herself. Tearing open the 
envelope she read, 



"Just returned from the South. 
Sorry your mother has been sick. 
Will reach Oxford Thanksgiving 

^^ ^°o"- Aunt Blessy. 

It was a limp little girl that dropped 
down on the hall seat, suddenly af- 
frighted at responsibilities thrust upon 
her. She could scarcely believe her eyes. 
Aunt Blessy coming for Thanksgiving 
dinner. Now, Aunt Blessy, Beth's great 
aunt, was the richest connection of the 
family. 

Beth could well remember the last 
time Aunt Blessy came. Mother knew 
of the visit days ahead so the house had 
been thoroughly cleaned ; the treasured 
linen from Mother's wedding chest was 
used during this visit, as well as the few 
silver pieces which were only brought 
forth on state occasions. A great air of 
festivity prevailed from the very attic 
to the bottom of the cellar stairs, and 
here was she, alone, to do for Aunt 
Blessy. Should she tell mother or not? 
She weighed the matter carefully, and 
then went to her mother's room. 

"Mother, dear, Aunt Blessy will be 
here to eat Thanksgiving dinner with us 
to-morrow." 

"O, dear! What will you do, Beth? 
Anna gone and me not able to do any- 
thing." 

"I shall do the best I can, mother. 
Aunt Blessy will know she is welcome, 
and she will also know that we have 
had no time for preparations." 

Beth drew a low rocker to the side 
of the easy chair in which her mother 
was sitting, and reaching over she patted 
her mother's hand. 

"Let me see. What will I do first? I 
know. I'll fix up the spare room so 
she'll have a place to put her things. 
Then I'll go down and get Father's sup- 
per and bring yours up to you. Before 
282 



BETH'S UNLOCKED FOR CROP 



283 



going to bed, I'll straighten the house 
up as nicely as I can. The turkey just 
came and it's a beauty. I've taken out 
the giblets and will cut them up fine and 
put them in the gravy, as Father likes it 
that way." 

"Beth, dear. It will have to be a very 
simple dinner. It's nice the pies are 
baked." Mrs. Graves tried to keep the 
concerned look from her face, but it was 
there, and Beth bent over and kissed her 
saying, 

"I think Aunt Blessy will like a sim- 
ple dinner for a change. Everyone puts 
on so when she comes to visit. I do 
not feel sorry, for she knows you are 
not yourself and that you will not be 
able to prepare for her yourself, so I'll 
do the best I can," and Beth tripped 
lightly away. 

It was barely six o'clock when Beth 
awakened Thanksgiving morning. She 
was out of bed instantly and, as soon as 
she dressed, hurried down to the kitchen, 
started the fire in the range, and the 
teakettle was boiling before Mr. Graves 
came into the kitchen. 

'T thought I'd get up in time to start 
the fire for you", he said, as he kissed 
her. 

*T have not been to the furnace yet, 
for the rattle always wakens mother, so 
we'll have breakfast before we rake out 
the furnace," said Beth. 

By the time, Mr. Graves was ready to 
leave for the train to meet Aunt Blessy, 
Beth had her vegetables prepared for 
cooking. Potatoes, pared, lying in cold 
water. Onions, to be escaloped, were 
cooking on the back of the stove. The 
squash was ready to put in the oven, at 
the proper time. Cranberries, already 
cooked, sat in the pantry cooling. 

This was the first turkey Beth had 
ever cooked. She prepared the dressing 
as Mother told her, and stuffed it as she 
had watched others do, but when she 
finished sewing the edges together with 
the darning needle and heavy white 
thread, a slight frown gathered on her 
face, and she said, half aloud : 



"It looks all sewed up, but it don't 
look just right." A glance at the clock 
warned her it was time to put the tur- 
key in the oven, so she placed it in the 
baker and shoved it in the oven. 

Beth opened the oven door very often 
to do the basting and soon a whiff of 
the roasting turkey reached Mrs. Graves' 
nostrils, as she lay on th^ couch in the 
living-room. 

"I think I'll be able to eat some tur- 
key myself," she said as Beth came' to 
the- door to see how she was standing 
the change down stairs. 

'T hope you will. Mother. Our din- 
ner will be good. Everything is going 
so nicely." 

Beth was busy in the kitchen, watch- 
ing the turkey and marshalling the vege- 
tables from cold water to cooking uten- 
sils, when a great stamping and a loud 
ringing of the bell sent her, with flushed 
cheeks and shining eyes, to the hall 
where Father and Aunt Blessy were al- 
ready removing overshoes and outer 
garments. 

''Will you go to your room now, Aunt 
Blessy?" questioned Beth, after the 
greetings were exchanged. 

''Dear, no! Let me lay my things 
here. I smell your dinner. I'm starved," 
and she put her arm around the girl's 
waist and together they entered the liv- 
ing-room. 

Beth drew the most comfortable chair 
up to the side of the couch Jor Aunt 
Blessy. The elder woman watched the 
girl with an admiring look in her fine, 
dark eyes. 

'T never knew, Ida,, that Beth would 
grow into such a beauty. She looks as 
though she was as good as she is pretty." 

"She is", replied Mrs. Graves. "Anna, 
our maid, had to go home yesterday, and 
Beth is getting dinner alone to-day." 

"I'm very glad I invited myself to a 
real Thanksgiving dinner. For in this 
day and age, Ida, it's something to be 
thankful for to have a daughter willing 
to cook as well as able to." 

When Beth came to tell them dinner 



284 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



was ready, she brought with her an old- 
fashioned straight-back rocker. Putting 
the down puff over the back and across 
the seat, Mr. Graves then lifted his wife 
to this chair and drew her carefully 
across the floor to the dining-room. ^ 

They were hungry and ate heartily, 
even Mrs. Graves was persuaded to 
have a second serving of white meat. 
Before the turkey was removed from 
the table, Mr. Graves, picked up the 
carving knife and fork and said, 

''Well ! Well ! It's never Thanksgiv- 
ing until Beth gets her wishbone", and 
he again commenced to carve. 

The centerpiece of fruit was piled 
high. Mrs. Graves could not see 
across the table very well, but when 
Beth saw kernels of corn pop out on the 
tablecloth, she stood up quickly, shoved 
back her chair, saying, 

''Now, Mother, I'm going to draw you. 
into the living-room, for we are going 
to eat our dessert in there. Never mind !" 
as Mrs. Graves started to protest, "you 
rest a few minutes and we'll be in." 

Beth returned to the dining-room with 
flaming cheeks. Mr. Graves was look- 
ing at the scattered corn, and Aunt 
Blessy was trying to look serious, but 
the twinkle in her e3'es would persist. 

• In a tragic whisper Beth tried to ex- 
plain, "I thought something was wrong. 
I thought there were two places to sew 
up but could only find one. Anna said 
it would be ready and all I would have 
to do would be to stuff it. If Mother 
knew the crop was left in that turkey, I 
don't believe she'd ever touch turkey 
again". 

"Don't feel so badly. Your mother 
never mistrusted a thing. You acted so 
quickly," and Aunt Blessy gravely 
passed her plate to Mr. Graves for an- 
other helping of turkey. Beth loved her 
for it. Always would, for it was Aunt 
Blessy's way to show she appreciated 
Beth's efforts. 

That night after Beth had assisted 
Mrs. Graves in her preparations for 
bed, in fact, had tucked her in, she went 



to Aunt Blessy's room and knocked at 
the door. 

"I am so sorry about the turkey, Aunt 
Blessy. Does it bother yoir?" 

"Not a bit," replied Aunt Blessy 
heartily. "If one would stop to think, 
the corn was clean. Its just the thought 
of it, and I think you were a wonder 
to get your mother out before she saw 
.anything." 

"But to think, I did not know the crop 
was there," and the tears slowly rolled 
down Beth's face. 

Instantly Aunt Blessy's arms were 
around her. 

"Never mind, dear. There is (one 
thing sure, next time you will find out. 
whether the crop is in." 

"Indeed, I will," replied Beth, and 
kissing Aunt Blessy she went on to her 
room. 

It was a warm April morning when 
the postman handed J^Irs. Graves a let- 
ter. Recognizing Aunt Blessy's hand- 
writing, she sat down on the porch steps 
to read it, where Beth soon joined her. 
They read the letter together. It was 
not until the third page was reached 
that they found the vital part of the 
communication, for they read, 

"Now, Ida, I have considered my 
three grand-nieces, and have de- 
cided, I would rather have Beth 
with me during my year in Europe 
than either of the others. Beth 
made my visit at your house last 
Thanksgiving most agreeable, and I 
feel she deserves the trip, especially 
now that you are well enough to 
spare her, and Anna is back. 

I do not want you to get any ex- 
tra clothes for her. If she has to 
have something, we will get it in 
New York, but we will want to buy 
some abroad, for that's half of a 
European trip for a girl. May I 
have her with me by Alay 1st. 

With love, Aunt Blessy." 

As Beth went slowly upstairs she 
knew that this was the work of the un- 
looked for crop. 



Centerpieces for All the Year 'Round 



By M. B. B, 



I HAVE just read a story in which a 
young girl changed the slovenly hab- 
its of her men folks by substituting the 
prettiest table appointments for the red 
cloth, coarse napkins and ugly china in 
every-day use. The men felt as though 
they had to live up to those things and 
so by a bit of strategy she accomplished 
what years of preaching and complaining 
had failed to do. 

If one cannot adopt this plan in its 
entirety, one may at least make free use 
of the flowers and green things so 
abundifnt in the country by way of help- 
ing out the suggestion of refinement. 
There is something green and growing 
for every month of the year. Even bleak 
and barren January may be enlivened by 
a house plant or two. One of the pret- 
tiest sights to eyes weary of snow and 
frozen fields is a pan of sprouting oats. 
Most farmers now raise these, indoors, 
for winter poultry and by a simple sys- 
tem of rotation one may have fresh 
sprouts for the table all winter long. It 
is best to grow these in a plate or shal- 
low tray. Start them in a sunny win- 
dow, and as soon as one tray begins to 
show signs of drooping, feed it to the 
hens and set another in its place on the 
table. 

A grapefruit seed planted in a pot of 
earth will soon sprout and grow into an 
odd plant. Lemon, orange and date 
seeds will also grow into beautiful plants 
for the table. 

During December, use plenty of holly 
and mistletoe and evergreen foliage. 
The Jerusalem cherry, which is now so 
much used at Christmas time, is a very 
ornamental plant, with its cherry-like 
fruit. It is not expensive, and while it 
does not last long, is very cheerful in its 
influence. 

Fall fruits and the late chrysanthe- 
mums will keep one supplied throughout 



November, while October is rife with 
bunches of autumn leaves and left-overs 
of summer wayside flowers. For 
Thanksgiving cut a pumpkin in halves, 
scallop the edges and fill with fruits. Or, 
hollow out a long-necked squash and fill 
with fruits, in imitation of a horn of 
plenty. Another pretty effect is gained 
by filling a toy wagon with vegetables 
and fruits from the farm. 

If you have no cosmos, marigolds or 
asters in the garden, the roads and by- 
ways will yield golden rod, wild asters 
or even yarrow for September meals. 
Most country dwellings do not appreciate 
the common plants — or weeds, they 
would call them — about their door. It 
takes beauty-starved city folk to open 
their eyes to the resources about them. 

"I'm so proud of my bed of yarrow", 
said a wealthy city woman who had 
moved to the country. 'T point it out to 
every- passerby." And she refused to al- 
io vv^ that corner of her yard to be mowed 
as long as the plant was in bloom. 

One of my city friends invariably car- 
ries back to town an armful of yellow 
mustard blooms, or clover, or the deli- 
cate Queen Anne's lace, which flour- 
ishes along every roadside in August and 
September. She once entertained a 
prominent man at dinner, and her cen- 
terpiece was a low bowl of the lace plant 
combined with ferns and resting on a 
round mirror. It was beautiful. She 
puts the mustard in a tall, old-fashioned 
earthen preser\'e jar and sets it on the 
hearth. At one of her parties she had 
a punch bowl full of red clover blossoms. 

I have an odd-shaped, old-fashioned 
sugar bowl which I keep filled with 
clover — both red and white — and there 
is nothing more satisfying to my sense 
of beauty and the fitness of things than 
that bowl of clover on my supper table 
(Continued on page 322) 



285 



286 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



FORMERLY THE 



BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To other Foreign Countries. 40c per Year 



TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 



Stattment of ownership and management as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, 1912. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers : R. B. Hill, B. M. Hill. 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill. R. B. Hill. 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co. 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-ciass Matter 



The Best Sauce 

"He who works not shall not eat." 
'Twas no warning hurled in heat 
At some shirker in the shade ; 
'Twas a plan that Nature made. 
Prince and pauper, here they meet; 
"He who works not shall not eat." 

"He who works not shall not eat." 
He who plies not hands and feet 
Bravely for the common good 
Rusts the wheel that grinds his food, 
Starves amid the fat and sweet,— 
"He who works not shall not eat." 

Roy Temple House. 



THE PRESENT SITUATION 

IN recent years much has been said 
about the cost of living; the rem- 
edies that have been suggested, the the- 
ories elaborated to meet the existing 
conditions have been various and count- 
less. The number of politicians who 
have sought and gained office through 
promises and schemes to reduce the 
prices of staples is almost incredible. 
Why should we make ourselves so 
ridiculous? At the same time the cost 
of most of the necessities of life has 
steadily advanced, and, with war in 
Europe, the prospect of betterment in 
conditions does not seem favorable. Peo- 
ple in general must make the best of 
the situation and, day by day, rely on 
prudence and thrift in matters of expen- 
ditures. 

It would seem that one or two facts 
are plain and simple, and, in a land like 
this, ought to be better understood and 
practiced. One is, in order that a re- 
duction take place all along the line in 
the cost of foodstuffs, more people must 
engage in the production of the same. 
Soil is plentiful and rich, but the needs 
of the masses are not supplied in suffi- 
ciently large quantities. More people 
need to get nearer to the earth. Nature 
rewards intelligent industry and thrifti- 
ness. 

Another fact is that the cost of com: 
modities is dependent on easy and ready 
means of transportation. How few seem 
to realize that transportation is the chief 
factor in modern civilization ! When 
traffic of every kind is large and active, 
everybody is busy and prosperous. 

Now these things are largely in the 
hands of the people themselves. For 
instance, it is up to them to say what 
shall and shall not be done in the way 
of legislation. In short, unceasing dili- 
gence is called for in respect to the con- 
duct of affairs that concern individual 
and social welfare. That justice and 
right prevail the world over are above 
all other considerations. 



EDITORIALS 



287 



THE VALUE OF HEIRLOOMS 

PEOPLE who do not possess heir- 
looms cannot be expected to prize 
or to appreciate them as do those to 
whom the keepsakes stand for family 
history or cherished tradition. To the 
mere uninterested onlooker, the yellowed 
mirror, heavy, old, carved table or 
quaint silver plate speaks only of a day 
that is well past, while to the descend- 
ant of proud and honest lineage the 
more ancient the heirloom the greater 
its value simply because it stands for 
more. 

The discriminating person, who can 
point with pride to evidences of family 
prosperity and position in the past, will 
feel an instinctive obligation to main- 
tain equally high standards in the pres- 
ent and to lay suitable foundations for 
their continuance in the future. 

Heirlooms are of vastly more worth 
than the mere materials and labor of 
manufacture which they represent. 
They are evidences of things seen and 
still hoped for. There is an unconscious 
cultivation of taste through association 
with worthy articles of the past. The 
strength, durability, simple dignity of 
line, and frank declaration of utility of 
an aristocratic old mahogany highboy 
cannot fail to influence the ideals of an 
entire family, and that too in the most 
far-reaching manner. It would be im- 
possible to conceive of a family, brought 
up face to face with such an article of 
furniture and revering the times and 
people which it has served so well, as 
ever being content to place by its side 
a cheap, highly-polished, golden oak 
soap premium, or upon its rich top a 
gaudily decorated gilt and magenta lamp. 

Is it not better to purchase one article 
worthy of respect and to enjoy the dig- 
nity of uncluttered spaces than to vit- 
iate the taste by surrounding ourselves 
with meaningless articles? Does not the 
parent, who purchases something worth 
being cared for and handed down as an 
heirloom, perform a distinct service for 



the future as well as the present? 

Surely so, for the tawdry things of 
life are placed at a discount, in contrast, 
and slowly but with a certainty the rami- 
fications of family solidity are builded, 
appreciation of the best is cultivated, and 
higher ideals established. 

In newer countries with their pioneer 
days, sturdy, substantial articles are re- 
quired to meet the daily needs, while the 
slender lines of a later day bespeak the 
elegancies of greater ease of living. So 
our heirlooms of bleached homespun, 
wool-filled comforters, hand-woven coun- 
terpanes, sturdy chests, nail-studded, un- 
dressed skin-covered trunks, and draft- 
protecting canopy-topped beds — all tell 
of the aristocracy of initiative, courage,, 
conquest. The paintings in their duUed- 
gold frames, with their reminder of the 
beauties of other days, the inlaid furni- 
ture, the fine strong lines of the colonial 
days bear mute testimony to the innate 
refinment of our forebears, to which the 
monstrosities of architecture and fur- 
nishings of a later day are in shocking, 
hideous contrast. It is, indeed, a hope- 
ful sign that we have awakened to a 
truer recognition of beauty — or more 
strictly speaking, are as a people bidding 
fair to awaken. 

It is a duty we owe those of a younger 
generation jto educate them in the value 
of unspoiled heirlooms, for many a treas- 
ure of other days has been improved 
out of all semblance of actual worth. 
Think of the sacrilege of daubing a rare 
bird's-eye maple chest of drawers with 
cheap, ready-mixed, blue paint, of enam- 
eling a valuable verde-antique, marble 
mantel white, of smearing a wonderful 
writing desk book-case of exquisitely 
matched ''plumed" mahogany with the 
contents of a couple of ten-cent cans of 
stain and varnish mixed, or of using a 
solid mahogany, drop-leaf table for 
wood-shed use, and relegating a once 
choice escritoire to a barn loft, because 
it wasn't worth giving away. Happy to 
relate the friendly eye of a true con- 
noisseur finally fell upon these humili- 



288 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



ated articles and they were restored and 
properly cared for — but by stranger 
hands. 

We, of occidental birth, are apt to 
smile indulgently at the pagan idea of 
Chinese ancestor worship, but there is 
something to be said in its favor, after 
all. To-day is builded upon yesterday, 
even as tomorrow must depend upon 
to-day. It is wise not to forget what 
we owe to the past, nor lose sight of the 
relation of the integrity of the present 
to the family and national future. 

On the other hand, heirlooms are 
sometimes subjected to strange humilia- 
tions. An honest warming pan in its 
palmiest days was never intended to be 
bedecked with an ostentatious satin bow 
and hung in the parlor, nor was great- 
grandfather Tudor's boot-jack ever in- 
tended to be used as a wall decoration. 
The stout, hickory chair, which held a 
silver-haired old gentleman of other days, 
when he took his "nooning" and smoked 
the fragrant weed on the side piazza, 
while the good wife 'Mid up" the dinner 
dishes inside, must actually blush to be 
gilded and thrust into unwelcome recep- 
tion room prominence. 

Older nations have learned the lesson 
of the true valuation of heirlooms. A 
family appreciates its own entailed prop- 
erty and considers it as hel^ in trust. 

With us, the big 'T" often hides the 
view behind and before. We are swept 
along by fads and the monkey-like desire 
to imitate our friends, in the furnishings 
of our homes. When round dining 
tables are the accepted fashion, we feel 
apologetic to extend hospitality from the 
four sides of a square one. 

A national realization of the value of 
heirlooms would make for greater social 
independence, with a proportionate econ- 
omy of money and foolish social striving. 

In truth, the order might well be re- 
versed and the effort made to construct 
a permanent, suitable, home unit. It 
would do away with much haste and 
feverishness. Fewer purchases would 
be necessary and those could be the real- 



ization of earnest, discriminating desire. 

E. G. W. 

CHEERFULNESS 

CHEERFULNESS has been called 
the "bright weather of the 
heart." Perhaps to some extent it is 
an inborn disposition. Some men are 
more happily constituted than others, 
and turn, like flowers, to the sun by a 
kind of instinct. At the same time, 
it cannot be doubted that all of us are 
capable of being trained in the habit 
of cheerfulness ; and, having the power 
to modify our temperaments, it largely 
depends upon ourselves whether we 
take a dark or a bright view of life, 
whether we make the worst or the 
best of it. A great teacher has said 
of the propensities that they are as 
teachable as Latin and Greek, and 
much more essential in any rational 
scheme of life. Dr. Johnson was as 
constitutionally prone to melancholy 
as any man who ever lived, and yet he 
said, "Man's being in a good or bad 
humor depends very much upon his 
own will." The habit of looking on 
the bright side of things, he added, is 
worth more than a thousand pounds 
a year. — Christian World, 



' The Check 

Life isn't a thing of gladness, 

When the Mss. come back. 
The skies are as black as midnight 

And earth is a total wrack. 
But, oh, it is glad midsummer 

And roses our paths bedeck, 
On the day when the post man brings us 

The letter that holds a check. 

Oh. it's easy enough forgetting 

The bitter thoughts of the past, 
When the man who was unrelenting 

Accepts at the very last. 
We bless him, his town, his paper, 

We'd like to fall on his neck. 
But instead we rush to the banker 

And get him to cash our check. 

L. M. Thornton. 





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ROASTED CHICKENS, WITH SAUSAGE AND FRITTERS 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Carrot Soup 

SCRAPE and slice six carrots (not 
too large). Peel and chop one 
onion. Melt three tablespoonfuls 
of bacon fat or fat from the top of the 
soup kettle ; add the prepared vege- 
tables, cover and let cook very slowly, 
for one hour, or until soft ; add three 
pints of broth, let simmer five or six 
minutes, then strain; thicken, if de- 
sired, with a tablespoonful of potato 
flour, or cornstarch, smoothed in a little 
cold water ; season, as needed, with salt 
and pepper. Broth made of the frame- 
work of roast chickens and the giblets 
may be used. 

Roasted Chickens, with Sausage 
and Fritters 

Truss the chickens in compact form, 
lay a slice of fat salt pork over the 
breasts and cook from one hour and a 
half to two hours, basting often. About 
twenty minutes before the chickens are 
done, set small flat pork sausage cakes 



into the oven to cook, turning them 
when half cooked. 

Corn Fritters 

These fritters may be made of or- 
dinary canned corn, chopped fine, but 
are best when made of home-canned 
corn pulp or of kornlet. Beat the yolks 
of two eggs ; add one cup of the variety 
of corn you use, half a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and pepper and one cup of flour 
sifted with two level teaspoonfuls of bak- 
ing powder ; mix together thoroughly, 
then beat in the whites of two eggs, 
beaten dry. Take up by the tablespoonful 
and with a second spoon scrape, in one 
portion, into hot fat ; turn the fritters as 
they rise to the top of the fat; turn 
several times while cooking; drain on 
soft paper in the warming over. 

Fillets of Fresh Fish,Poulette Style 

Cut fillets of fresh fish into long nar- 
row strips, scrape over them a little 
onion juice and marinate with lemon 
juice and pulp of red peppers. Cover 



289 



290 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the trimmings of the fish, onion, peppers 
and a few sprigs of parsley with cold 
water and let simmer twenty minutes ; 
drain and reserve to baste the fish and 
for sauce. Fold each fillet over a cubical 
strip of raw potato, buttered, to have the 
ends come together; set these in a bak- 
ing dish, pour over some of the hot 
broth and let bake about twenty minutes, 
basting three times with the broth. Cook 
one-fourth a cup of flour in one-fourth 
a cup of melted butter; add the liquid 
from the fillets with enough more of 
the broth to make one pint in all and stir 
until boiling; beat the yolks of an Qgg, 



salt pork or bacon fat or with fat taken 
from the top of soup stock. Cook about 
one hour and three-fourths. Garnish the 
dish on which the meat is served with 
stufifed tomatoes and buttered sprouts. 

Stuffed Tomatoes a la Sicilienne 

Select a dozen smooth tomatoes of 
same size. Remove a round piece about 
an inch in diameter from the stem end 
of each. Remove the seeds and pulp, 
to leave a shell, and chop the pulp fine. 
Put into a saucepan four tablespoonfuls 
of butter and saute in this half an onion 
chopped fine, then add a pint of chopped 



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CHICKENS TRIMMED FOR ROASTING 



add one-fourth a cup of cream and stir 
into the sauce ; season with salt and pep- 
per; add a teaspoonful of lemon juice 
and turn into a sauce-boat. Serve the 
fillets in rows on a serving dish with 
potato balls, cut with French cutter, 
rolled in melted butter and sprinkled 
with chopped parsley, between. Garnish 
the sides of the dish with two hard- 
cooked eggs sliced thin. 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Roasted, 
with Stuffed Tomatoes 

The cavity from which the bone is 
taken may be stuffed with bread dress- 
ing, if meat or nuts are to be used in 
the tomatoes ; if the tomatoes are to 
be filled with rice, the lamb may be 
sewed into a compact shape without 
using anything for filling. Baste with 



mushrooms and stir and cook until the 
moisture evaporates ; add the tomato 
pulp, half 'a cup of lean ham, cooked 
and chopped fine, half a cup of bread- 
crumbs (stale not dried), a few leaves 
of sweet herbs, tied in a parsley branch, 
salt and pepper with broth or thickened 
sauce to moisten ; stir and cook until 
thoroughly heated, then remove the 
parsley branch and fill the tomatoes. The 
mixture should not be too moist. Set 
the tomatoes in a baking-pan, and 
sprinkle with grated cheese and buttered 
crumbs. Bake about half an hour in a 
moderate oven. 

Stuffed Tomatoes a la Carolina 

Select a dozen round tomatoes of the 
same size. Remove a piece about an 
inch in diameter from the stem end of 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



291 




BONED LEG OF LAMB, STUFFED TOMATOES, BRUSSELS SPROUTS 



each and take out the seeds. Cook a 
cup of rice in a quart of well-seasoned 
broth, with half a green pepper cut fine. 
When the rice is nearly tender, add half 
a cup of butter and mix thoroughly, but 
carefully, to avoid breaking the grains 
of rice. Fill the tomato shells with 
the rice; bake about half an hour in 
a moderate oven. Remove to the serv- 
ing dish. If served as an entree sur- 
round with highly flavored tomato sauce. 

Brussels Sprouts with Butter 

Boil one quart of Brussels sprouts 
in two quarts of salted water, about 
fifteen minutes, or until tender. Let 
drain on a cloth, then toss in a frying- 
pan with a scant fourth a cup of butter, 
until the butter is absorbed ; sprinkle 
with one teaspoon ful of chopped parsley 
and a dash of salt ; mix and arrange in 
a mound on a serving-dish. Surround 
with points of toasted or fried bread. 

Fillets of Chicken Breast, 
with Jelly Sauce 

Remove the breast from a young 
chicken, separate the two small fillets 



from the larger ones, and cut the larger 
ones in halves, lengthwise ; trim the fillets 
neatly, dip them in beaten Ggg diluted 
with milk, then coat them with soft, 
sifted bread crumbs. Season the crumbs 
with a little salt before using. Saute the 
fillets in the clarified butter, very slowly, 
until delicately colored on one side, then 
cook on the other side and drain on 
soft paper. It will take from ten to 
fifteen minutes (according to thickness) 
to cook the fillets, and they should not 
be set to cook until the border is nearly 
ready. Scrape all the flesh from the rest 
of the fowl, pass it through a meat chop- 
per and pound it with a pestle. There 
should be one cup of pulp. Cook soft, 
white bread crumbs in milk or chicken 
broth directly over the fire, stirring 
constantly, until a smooth paste is 
formed ; into half a cup of this panada, 
beat the unbeaten white of an tgg, half 
a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper and, when cold, 
pound into the chicken, and when smooth 
pound with an unbeaten white of egg 
and press through a seive ; into this 
mixture beat two whites of eggs beaten 




FILLETS OF FISH. POULETTE STYLE 



292 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



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RAGOUT OF VEAL AXD BUTTON ONIONS 



light and a cup of cream beaten light. 
Cook in a buttered border mold until 
firm. Cook in the oven, on many folds 
of paper and surrounded with boiling 
water. The water should not boil after 
the dish is set into the oven. Unmold 
on a serving dish ; fill the center with 
cooked okra or peas, well buttered ; set 
the fillets above the vegetable and pour 
currant jelly sauce around the 1)order 
of forcemeat. 

CiiiTant Je]ly Sauce for Chicken 

As soon as the flesh has been taken 
from the framework of the chicken, 
break the framework in pieces, and 
saute these and the giblets and a sliced 
onion in hot fat until well browned on 
all sides ; pour off all the fat possible ; 
add two cups of white broth or cold 
water and let simmer, half covered two 
or three hours, or even longer if there 
be time. Strain off this broth and use 
with one-fourth a cup, each, of butter 



and flour for the sauce ; strain and finish 
by melting in it two tablespoonful of 
currant jelly. 

Ragout of Veal and 
Button Onions 

\\\\\\ a cleaver or a pestle flatten a 
veal steak to about one-fourth an inch 
in thickness. With a small round cut- 
ter, cut the veal into rounds. Cook 
these in the frying-pan in hot salt-pork 
fat until juice shows on the upper sur- 
face, then turn to cook the other side ; 
add broth and let simmer until the meat 
is very tender (about forty-five min- 
utes) ; stir two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, salt and pepper as needed 
with a little juice from a can of toma- 
toes, and stir into the dish ; add a cup of 
tomato pulp in inch-size pieces and 
let cook ab(xit ten minutes longer. Have 
ready some small button onions, cooked 
tender in boiling water, drained and 
browned in hot butter. Serve the veal 




STUFFED SHOULDER OF VEAL, CHAUDFROID STYLE 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



293 




CREAMED KOHI^RABI 



and sauce in the center of the dish with 
the onions around it. Or serve the 
rounds of veal, after cooking in the hot 
fat, one overlapping another, in a circle, 
in the center of the dish with quarter 
slices of lemon between the rounds, and 
the onions around the circle, and the 
sauce in a bowl. 

Stuffed Shoulder of Veal, 
Chaudfroid Style 

Select a shoulder of veal weighing 
about eight pounds, without the knuckle ; 
bone it without cutting through the 
skin ; spread it on a meat board, skin 
side down ; slice off some of the meat 
from the thickest portions, that it may 
be of nearly uniform thickness through- 
out. To the veal trimmings add two 
pounds, each, of veal fillet and fat 
bacon, and pass through the food-chop- 
per ; add a tablespoonful of salt, a tea- 
spoonfid of paprika and pound with a 



pestle in a wooden bowl about fifteen 
minutes, then add a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, one-fourth a cup of 
hue-chopped truft'les. — these may be 
omitted — and when thoroughly mixed, 
spread this forcemeat over the meat. 
It should be nearly three inches thick. 
Cut half a pound of fat salt pork 
in half -inch cubes, and press these 
into the forcemeat at regular intervals ; 
fold or roll the meat to enclose the 
forcemeat. Sew the edges of the meat 
together on the three open sides ; roll 
it in a cloth and tie both ends with 
tape ; also tie two pieces of tape around 
the roll at equal distances from the ends, 
to keep it from bulging at the center. 
Into an oval saucepan put the bones 
from the meat, trimmings from the 
bacon and pork, the knuckle of veal, 
two onions, in slices, three cloves, four 
branches of parsley and four stalks of 
celery and pour on cold water or light 



^^B^^^BII^*^^'' ^^itv 



STUFFED DELECATA 



294 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



stock to cover the whole ; let heat slowly 
to the boiling point ; skim, then lay the 
shoulder of veal on the bones, cover 
and let simmer four or five hours or 
until tender. Remove the cloth from 
the meat, spread it on the board and 
again tie the meat in it ; let the meat 
cool between two baking sheets with 
a weight above. When cold remove 
from the cloth, cover with chaudfroid 
sauce, decorate with figures cut from 
pimientos and with fine-chopped truffles, 
and pour half-set aspic jelly over the 
whole. Surround with curly endive, 
cut in ribbons, and tomatoes cut to 
represent flowers. Serve mayonnaise in 



half a teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth a 
package of gelatine softened in one- 
fourth a cup of cold water, and a small 
blade of mace ; stir constantly until 
boiling ; let boil five minutes ; draw to 
a cooler part of the range to settle, 
then strain through a napkin wrung 
out of boiling water and laid over a 
colander. Use when beginning to "set." 

Creamed Kohl-Rabi 

Pare tender kohl-rabi, cut each in 
quarters, lengthwise, and let cook in 
boiling water until tender; season with 
salt and set four pieces, each, in in- 
dividual dishes. To serve five make one 




A LIGHT LUNCHEON: HONEY. CHEESE. HOT BISCUIT 



a bowl apart, 
fifty people. 



This will serve about 



Chaudfroid Sauce 

Make a sauce of one- fourth a cup, 
each, of butter and flour, half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
pepper and two cups of the broth in 
which the meat was cooked ; add one and 
a half tablespoonfuls of gelatine, soft- 
ened in half a cup of broth, and stir until 
the gelatine is disolved, use when par- 
tially chilled. 

Aspic Jelly 

Remove all fat from one pint of the 
broth in which the meat was cooked; 
add the crushed shells of several eggs, 
one white of an egg beaten slightly, 
the thin, yellow rind of half a lemon, 



cup of cream sauce with two tablespoon- 
fuls, each, of butter and flour and one 
cup of thin- cream or rich milk. Season 
with one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika. When boiling pour 
over the kohl-rabi. For a heartier dish, 
add to the sauce — at the last moment — 
from two to four tablespoonfuls of 
grated cheese. 

Stuffed Delecata or Summer 
Asparagus 

Cut a delecata (a variety of Sum- 
mer squash) in halves lengthwise, re- 
move seeds and soft portions and let 
cook by steaming or boiling until near- 
ly tender; sprinkle inside with salt, and 
turn upside down to drain. Find out 
the quantity of material needed to fill 
the halves of the vegetable (they vary 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



295 



greatly in size) ; take equal portions of 
chopped chicken and ham and soft, fine 
bread crumbs to equal the bulk of both ; 
for a cup of crumbs, take one-fourth 
a cup of melted butter, a tablespoonful, 
each, of fine-chopped parsley, onions and 
green or red pepper and salt and black 
pepper to season. If too dry add a little 
cream or broth. Fill the prepared 
squash with the mixture, rounding it up 
well ; cover with one-fourth a cup or 
more of cracker crumbs mixed with 
two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, turn 
a little broth or hot water into a dish 
around the delecata and let cook until 
hot throughout and the crumbs browned. 
Serve with cream, brown or tomato 
sauce around the vegetable or in a sep- 
arate dish. 

Delecata, Hollandaise Style 

Cut the vegetable into long narrow 
strips, remove the soft center and pare 
the outside. Cook the strips in boiling 
water till done ; drain and serve with 
Hollandaise sauce poured over, either 
with or without toast. 

Hollandaise Sauce for Delecata 
{To serve jive) 

Beat one-fourth a cup of butter to 
a cream; beat in one yolk of egg, add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and pepper, and one-fourth a cup of 
boiling water and stir over boiling water 
till the mixture thickens ; add a table- 
spoonful of lemon juice and the sauce 
is ready. 



1 


1 ■' '" '^^ 




m 









CANNED TOMATOES, NEW STYLE 

Tomatoes, Canned Whole 

If the tomatoes are small, leave them 
whole, simply peel and cut out the hard 
portion at the stem end. Larger toma- 
toes may be cut in quarters, prefer- 
ably at the fleshy portion, between the 
seed sections. Have the jars and covers 
thoroughly sterilized in boiling water ; 
turn out the water and fill the jars as 
full as possible with the prepared 
tomatoes and adjust the rubbers; set 
the jars in a large deep sauce-pan, or 
other receptacle, on several folds of 
cloth ; turn a little boiling water in to 
the dish against the cloth at one side, 
to temper the jars, then fill the jars 
to overflow with boiling water; adjust 
the covers (taken from boiling water) 
making them secure as when canning is 
finished ; now pour boiling water around 
tlie cans to reach to at least half their 




NUT BREAD 



296 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




PUMPKIN PIE 



height. Cover the receptacle and let 
stand until the jars are cold. The 
tomatoes when opened will be about 
equal to the fresh vegetable. 

Tango Salad 

Peel, halve and core ripe juicy pears 
and, if desired, cut the halves in thin 
slices without cutting quite through ; rub 
them over with the cut side of a lemon, 
or squeeze upon each piece a few drops 
of lemon juice to keep them from dis- 
coloring. Set a ball of cream cheese, 
or a few cubes of roquefort or other 
cheese, in the cavity in the center of 
the halves of pears ; set these on heart- 
leaves of lettuce, and pour a highly 
seasoned dressing over the whole. 

Tango Dressing 
{To serve sice) 

Prepare half a> cup of mayonnaise 
dressing in the usual manner. P)eat one- 



fourth a cup of olive oil, one teaspoonful 
of vinegar, one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and mustard, half a tea- 
spoonful of paprika, and one-fourth a 
cup of chili sauce, until well blended, 
then gradually beat into the mayonnaise 
dressing. Sprinkle the salad and dress- 
ing generously with julienne shreds of 
pimientos. After opening the can of 
pimientos, rinse them in cold water, and 
dry on a cloth. 

Nut Bread, with Baking Powder 

Sift together three cups of pastry 
flour, one cup of sugar, three slightly 
rounding teaspoon fuls of baking pow- 
der and one teaspoonful of salt; add one 
cup of chopped nut meats, one tgg, 
beaten light, and one cup of milk and mix 
to a dough ; turn into a buttered brick- 
loaf bread pan, let stand fifteen minutes, 
then bake about forty-five minutes. For 
a change, use one-third Graham flour. 




TANGO SALAD 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



297 



Fancy Pastry for Little Pies 

Sift together one cup and one-fourth 
of pastry flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and baking powder and 
two tablespoonf uls of sugar ; with two 
knives or the tips of the fingers work 
in half a cup of butter or other shorten- 
ing. Add an unbeaten yolk of tgg; 
mix the juice of one lemon with one 
and a half tablespoonfuls of water and 
with the knife work the liquid gradually 
into the tgg and flour mixture. Turn 
upon a board dredged with flour; turn 
the dough in the flour, then pat and roll 
into a rectangular sheet ; fold the dough 
to make three layers and roll again into 
a thin sheet; repeat the folding and 
rolling two or three times, then roll 
very thin and use to line small tins. 

Lemon Cheese Cakes 

For the filling for five small ( in- 
dividual) pies take one egg, three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, one-fourth of a tea- 
spoonful of salt, the grated rind of one 
lemon, one large tablespoonful of lemon 
juice, and one-fourth a cup of sifted 
sponge cake crumbs. Beat the yolk of the 
egg ; add the sugar, salt, lemon rind and 
juice, and the cake crumbs; mix thor- 
oughly, then fold in the white of the egg, 
beaten dry, and turn into small tins lined 
with fancy pastry. Bake until the filling 
is set. 

Pumpkin Pie, Holiday Style 

Line the plate with fancy pastry such 
as is given for lemon cheese cakes. For 
the filling beat one egg and the yolk 
of another; add one cup of sugar, one- 
third a cup of molasses, one cup and 
a half of pumpkin (cooked until dry 
and sifted), half a teaspoonful of salt, 
two rounding tablespoonfuls of fine- 
chopped, preserved ginger, a tablespoon- 
ful of yellow ginger, one cup of cream, 
and half a cup of milk; mix thoroughly 
and turn into the prepared plate. Set a 



scant tablespoonful of butter, in bits, 
here and there, on the top of the mix- 
ture, and let bake about forty minutes. 
The recipe for pastry will be enough 
for a large pie and five or six cheese 
cakes. The pumpkin filling makes a 
large, deep pie. It will serve eight. 
Flalf a tablespoonful of common ginger 
and a teaspoonful of cinnamon may re- 
place the seasonings given above. 

Banana Pie, Thanksgiving Style 

Press enough peeled bananas through 
a vegetable ricer to fill a cup. To this 
add half a cup of sugar, two table- 
spoonfuls of molasses, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, one beaten egg, one-half a tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon, half a cup of 
milk and one-third a cup of cream. Mix 
thoroughly, and bake until firm in a 
plate lined with pastry. 

Canned Berry Pudding 

Butter a pudding dish, lay in a layer 
of bread, cut in thin slices and buttered, 
then a layer of canned berries, blueber- 
ries, blackberries or raspberries. If the 
berries are not already sweetened, 
sprinkle on a little sugar. Continue the 
layers until the dish is nearly full. Bake 
about half an hour in a moderate oven. 
Serve hot with sugar and cream or hard 
sauce. 

Cornstarch Pudding 

Scald two cups of milk; stir two 
rounding tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
and half a teaspoonful of salt with one- 
third a cup of cold milk to a smooth 
consistency, then turn it into the hot milk 
and stir constantly until the mixture is 
smooth and thick; cover and let cook 
fifteen minutes. Beat one egg; add one- 
fourth a cup of sugar, and stir into the 
hot mixture; cover and let stand two 
or three minutes. Serve hot, with 
strawberry or raspberry syrup, or with 
sugar and cream. This is enough for 
four or five portions. 



Menus for a Week in November 



'* To detect the flavoiir of an olive is no less a piece of human perfection, thafi to find beanty in the cot,oui 
of the sunset." — R. L. Stevenson. 
Breakfast 
Oatmeal cooked with Butter, Thin Cream 

Small Country Sausage 

Potatoes Hashed in Milk, Hot Apple Sauce 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee Cocoa 



K^ Dinner 

<j Oyster Soup 

Q Roasted Chickens, Currant Jell}^ 

'^\ Kornlet Fritters, Mashed Potatoes, 
I^ Sweet Potatoes, Southern Fashion 
Giblet Sauce Celery-and-Lettuce Salad 

Pumpkin Pie, Whipped Cream above 
Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hot Cheese Sandwiches 

Mustard Pickles Apple Marmalade 

Little Nut Cakes Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Creamed Dried Beef 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Doughnuts Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Noodle Soup 

Fillets of Fresh Fish, Poulette, 

Fish Bechamel Sauce 

Buttered Potato Balls Pickled Beets 

Lemon Jelly with Sliced Bananas, 

Sugar, Cream 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Cream Toast 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Stewed Crab Apples or Apple Marmalade 

Spice Cake Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Bacon Broiled in Oven 

Mashed Potato Cakes, Baked 

Cornmeal Muffins Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Okra Soup with Rice 

Lettuce-and-Apple Salad (French dressing) 

Graham Bread 

Hot Cornstarch Pudding, 

Sugar and Cream or Strawberry Syrup 

Tea 

Dinner 

Corned Forequarter of Lamb, Boiled, 

Caper Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Turnips 

Lemon Cheese Cakes Half Cups of Coft'ee 



Breakfast 

Fish-and-Potato Hash 

Sliced Tomatoes or Pickles 

Rye Meal or Graham Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Potato Soup, Croutons Rizzoletti 

(Rice Croquettes, Creamed Chicken in 

center) 

Canned Peas 

Buttered Brussels Sprouts 

Pudding of Canned Berries and Bread, 

Cream, Sugar 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hulled Corn, Syrup, Cream 

Bread and Butter 

Hot Baked Sweet Apples 

Fig Layer Cake Tea 



Breakfast 

Corned Lamb and Potato Hash 

Mustard Pickles 

Fried Cornmeal Mush Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fricassee of Chicken 

Savory Rice Cranberry Sauce 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Pineapple Tapioca Pudding, 

Cream, Sugar 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Potato Omelet with Cheese 

Dry Toast Baked Pears 
Drop Nut Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Oranges 

Bacon Omelet 

Cream of Wheat Mush, Fried 

Buttered Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Fresh Fish Cooked en Casserole 

Creamed Kornlet, Mexican Style, au 

Gratin 

Apples in Jelly 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Smoked Halibut Potato Salad 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuit 

Canned Fruit 

Caramel Cake Tea 



Breakfast Dinner 

Baked Apples Roast Leg of Lamb 

Broiled Fresh or Salt Fish Stuffed Tomatoes 

Creamed Potatoes Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Bread and Butter Baked Bananas. Currant Jelly Sauce 
Toasted Biscuits Celery-and-Green Pepper Salad 

Coffee Cocoa Squash Pie 

Preserved Ginger 
Half Cups of Coffee 
298 



Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans 

(fresh or dried) 

Yeast Biscuit 

Honey 

Drop Cookies 

Tea 



Menus for Thanksgiving Dinner 



Consomme with Egg Balls 

Celery, Ripe Olives, Salted Butternuts 

Oyster Croquettes, Sauce Tartare 

Hot Yeast Rolls 

Sweetbreads-and-Mushroom Patties 

Roasted Turkey, Giblet Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes Squash 

Cranberry Jelly 

Onions Stuffed with Sausage or 

Pecan nut meats 

Hot Ham Mousse, Madeira Sauce 

Chiffonade of Celery, Tomatoes and 

Green Peppers, French Dressing 

Hot Apple Pie Pumpkin Pie 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

Maple Bonbons Pears 

Coffee 



II 

Lobster Cocktail 

Brown Bread Sandwiches 

Roasted Guinea Chickens, Guava Jelly 

Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Savory Rice Croquettes 

Endive Salad 

Banana Pie 

Fruit Cup (orange sherbet, etc.) 

Assorted Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 



III 



Grape-fruit Cocktail 

Roasted Chickens. Sausage Cakes, 

Mashed Potatoes 

Kornlet, ^Mexican Stjde, in Ramekins 

Cranberry Sauce 

Squash Onions in Cream 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Individual Pumpkin Pies 

Raspberry Sherbet 

Assorted Xuts Mint Leaves 

Coffee 



IV 

Oyster Stew 

Celery Pickles 

Boned Leg of Lamb, Potato Stuffing, 

Roasted 

Baked Tomatoes Stuffed with Chicken 

and Ham 

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Mashed Turnips 

Banana Croquettes, Currant Jelly Sauce 

or Apple Mint Jelly 

Squash Pie 

Vanilla Ice Cream, Maple Syrup Sauce 

and Chopped Xuts 

Sponge Cakelets 

Fruit Assorted Xuts Raisins 

Coffee 



Tomato Soup 

Celery Olives 

Scalloped Oysters 

Roast Ham, Currant Jelly Sauce 

Apples, Baked with Almonds 

Cabbage-and-Green- Pepper Salad 

Pumpkin Pie 

Chocolate Ice Cream, 

Marshmallow Sauce 

Nuts Raisins Fruit 

Coffee 



Menus for High Tea, Thanksgiving Night 



I 

Buffet Service 

Oyster Soup, en Tasse 

Olives Celery Hearts Salted X^uts 

Sluffed Shoulder of Veal, Chaudfroid Style 

Celery-and-Pimento or Green Pepper 

Salad 

Celery-and-Chicken Salad 

Sandwiches 

Parker House Rolls 

Lemon Cheese Cakes Little Pumpkin Pies 

Sweet Cider Frappe 

Coffee 



II 

Small Family 

Oyster Stew 

Boiled Ham in Aspic Jelly 

Apple, Celery-and-Green Pepper Salad 

Hot Rolls 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream 

Lady Fingers 

Assorted Xuts Maple Bonbons 

Coffee 



299 



Suggestions for Use of ''Left-overs" from Thanks- 
giving Dinner 

Onion Soup. Celery Soup. Cream-of-Cauliflower Soup. Chicken Gumbo. 
Chicken-and-Tomato Soup. Rice Soup 

Fresh Fish Cakes. Croquettes. Cutlets, Hashed or Creamed Fish. 
Fish in Aspic with Macedoine of Vegetables 

Oyster Omelet. Chicken or Turkey Omelet. Spanish Omelet 

Chicken or Turkey Scalloped with Tomatoes or with Kornlet. Chicken or Turkey Roll 
Chicken or Turkey Rechaufee with Savory Rice. Chicken, Turkey or Ham Pilau 

Chicken or Turkey or Ham Souffle. Croquettes, Timbales, or Salad 

Chicken, Turkey or Ham in Aspic Jelly. Creamed Chicken, Turkey or Ham 

Rizzoletti (Rice Croquettes with Creamed Chicken, Turkey or Ham in center) 

Macaroni a la Milanaise (with Broth, Ham, Tomato and Cheese) 

Onions Stuffed with Nuts. Celery, au Gratin with Cheese. Creamed Celery 
Squash Pie. Cranberry Tarts 

Salad, Macedoine of Cooked Vegetables. Pear and Cream Cheese, Tango Dressing 

Chiffonade of Celery and Pears, skinned and seeded White Grapes 

with French or Mayonnaise Dressing 

Bread Pudding with Fruit Jelly and Meringue ' 



Menus for Well-balanced Dinners of Tvv^o Courses 



I 



Casserole of Round Steak 

(onions, carrots, potatoes) 

Celery Hearts 

Bread and Butter 

Blancmange, Sugar, Cream 

II 

Fish Baked, with Dressing 

Mashed Potatoes 

Cabbage Salad 

Apple Pie, Cheese 

Coffee 

III 

Boiled Cod, Pickle Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Canned Apricot Shortcake 

Coffee 

IV 

Shoulder of Lamb, Boiled, 

Caper Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Turnips 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Delmonico Pudding 

(cornstarch baked with meringue) 

Coffee 



Hamburg Steak 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Macaroni, with Tomato Sauce 

Celery Hearts 

Cranberry Pie 

Coffee 

VI 

Cheese Pudding (custard) 

Apple and Celery Salad 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Steamed Fig Pudding, Hard Sauce 

Coffee 



VII 

Lamb Souffle, Tomato Sauce 

Creamed Cauliflower 

Baked Indian Pudding, Hard Sauce 

or Whipped Cream 

VIII 

Salted Salmon, Boiled, Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Onions 

Cold Slaw 

Creamy Rice Pudding, with Raisins 

(poor man's rice pudding) 

Coffee 



300 




The Old-fashioned Thanksgiving Dinner, How to Vary 
It and Still Retain Its Characteristics 



By Jessamine Chapman Williams 



IN spite of two hundred and ninety- 
four years of growth and develop- 
ment since the first Thanksgiving 
Day, we Americans still cling to the 
ideas and forms established by our fore- 
fathers, in the celebration of this na- 
tional holiday. The conventions and 
traditions centering about Thanksgiving 
Day are hallowed by memory and to de- 
part from these, even in the general 
character of the dinner menu, would 
violate the culinary symbolism connected 
with the celebration. 

We do not stop to analyze or consider 
how the customs we follow so closely 
come about, but the conventional 
Thanksgiving turkey and its accompani- 
ments have a history. The menu for 
the Thanksgiving dinner of Puritan days 
was a fixed one, necessarily. It was 
after the harvest season, and hence the 
cranberry sauce and jelly, the fresh, 
home-made cider, the boiled-cider apple 
sauce, and the mince pies in which the 
boiled cider was a delectable ingredient. 
The wild turkey, the chestnut stuffing, 
tihe pumpkin pies, the oysters, fresh- 
caught from the "rock-bound" coast of 
Cape Cod, were the foods attainable for 
this feast. And from the brood of 
spring chickens came the choicest for 
the generous chicken pie; and the root 
vegetables, lately dug and put in the cel- 
lar for winter use, were in their prime. 
In contrast to the meager supply and 
lack of variety at other seasons of the 

301 



year November was, indeed, the harvest 
month. 

To keep to the time-honored conven- 
tional menu, and yet introduce little sur- 
prises and variations in the serving, is 
the task of the housewife to-day. 

The following is the old-fashioned 
conventional menu served in homes of 
every section of the country : 

Oysters (Stew or Raw) 

Roast Turkey Chicken Pie 

Celery 

Cranberry Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes Turnips or Baked Squash 

Creamed Onions 

Pumpkin Pie Mince Pie 

Pound Cake Cheese 

Apples, Xuts, Raisins 

Coffee, Cider 

A Variation of the Above Menu 

Oyster Canapes 

Giblet Soup, with Popped Corn 

Stuffed Celery 

Boiled Turkey, Bread Sauce Chicken Pie 

(Chestnut Stuffing) (Individual Crusts) 

Cranberry Ice 

Squash Souffle Turnip Croquettes 

Glazed Silver Skins 

Horn-of-Plenty Salad 

Brown Bread Sandwiches 

Pumpkin Pie in Cups Mince Pie 

(Whipped Cream Garnish) (in Ramekins) 

Stuffed Dates 

Mulled Cider Coffee 

Molasses Candy 

Oyster Canapes 

Instead of the usual raw-oyster appe- 
tizer, oyster canapes will prove a pleas- 
ant variety. Grind the oysters and sea- 
son as for oyster cocktail, with tabasco 
sauce, Worcestershire sauce, catsup, eel- 



302 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



ery salt, and lemon juice. Spread thick- 
ly on oblong pieces of buttered toast, 
dot oysters with bits of butter, and 
moisten all with the strained oyster 
liquor, which has been heated carefully 
to the boiling point. Heat in a very hot 
oven. Garnish by placing, across each 
end of the toast, chopped olives, and 
place a slice of lemon covered with 
chopped parsley on each plate. Serve 
very hot. 

Giblet Soup 

Cook the turkey giblets until tender in 
a small amount of water. Chop and 
force through a puree strainer. Thicken 
the liquor in which the giblets are 
cooked, season, and add giblet puree and 
hot cream or rich milk. Add brown 
stock if necessary to make up the quan- 
tity desired. 

The popcorn served in place of crou- 
tons or bread will prove a successful 
substitute. A few kernels are put in 
each soup dish when served. 

Stuffed Celery 

Add cream, in sufficient quantity, to 
one cake of Neufchatel cheese to make 
it easy to mold. Add chopped olives 
and pimientoes to taste. Fill the grooves 
of celer}^ with the mixture and arrange 
in a circle on a plate, trimming oflF the 
leaves and end of the stalk so that they 
will not project from the plate. Place 
a little pile of olives in the center of the 
plate and garnish all with sprigs of 
parsley. 

Bread Sauce 

This is a necessar}^ accompaniment to 
boiled fowl or game. It may be varied 
greatly by adding chopped celery, chest- 
nut puree or the chopped giblets. 



2 cups milk 

i cup fine bread 

crumbs, salt, pepper, 

cayenne 
1 onion, 6 cloves 



3 tablespoonfuls 

butter 
^ cup coarse, stale 

bread crumbs 



Cook milk with fine crumbs and onion, 
stuck with cloves, thirtv minutes in the 



double boiler. Remove onion and add 
seasoning and butter. Brown the coarse 
crumbs in butter and sprinkle over the 
top, after placing in the gravy boat. The 
water in which the turkey is boiled may 
be used instead of milk if desired. 

To Boil the Turkey 

The turkey is stuffed with chestnut 
dressing, the same as for roasting, 
wrapped in cheese cloth, and plunged 
into boiling water, using as little water 
as possible. Cook very slowly until ten- 
der. It may be garnished as attractively 
as when roasted, with strings of cran- 
berries, curled celery, and paper frills. 
Often sausage, in links, are used as a 
garnish as well. 

The Chestnut Stuffing 

Blanch one pound of Italian Chest- 
nuts, boil until tender and put through 
a ricer. Add one cup of bread crumbs, 
one-half cup of shortening, one table- 
spoonful and one-half of poultry season- 
ing and one-half cup of seeded raisins, 
with salt, pepper, celery salt, sugar, and 
cayenne to taste. Mix thoroughly. This 
is. excellent for poultr}- or game. 

Cranberry Ice 

This will surely appeal to all — a cool, 
tart, refreshing accompaniment, instead 
of the usual cranberry sauce or jelly. 
Cook the cranberries as for a sauce ; 
strain, and add an equal amount of sugar 
syrup and freeze. Serve in tall cham- 
pagne glasses. 

The Chicken Pie 

To vary the appearance, but not de- 
tract in any way from its traditional 
goodness, cut the crust in form of bis- 
cuits and lay on top, serving a round of 
crust to each, instead of a wedge-shaped 
piece as when the top is covered com- 
pletely. A puff-paste or plain pie-crust 
may be used. 

Turnip Croquettes 

Boil and mash the turnips. Add one- 



THE OLD-FASHIONED THANKSGIVING DINNER 



303 



U cups milk 
2 eggs, beaten separ- 
ately 



third or one-half the quantity of mashed 
potato and beaten egg in sufficient 
amount to make light. Add melted but- 
ter and, if too stiff, a little milk. Mold 
in the desired shape and roll m egg and 
crumbs and fry in deep fat as any cro- 
quettes. They may be done early and 
reheated in the oven. 

Squash or Sweet Potato Souffle 

2 cups squash or 

sweet potato, boiled 

and mashed 
I tablespoonful brown 

sugar 

Beat thoroughly and pile in a baking 
dish and bake thirty minutes, browning 
the top nicely. The southerner will pre- 
fer the sweet potato. 

Glazed Silver Skins 

Boil silver-skin onions until tender 
and saute in butter until brown and 
glossy. These with the boiled turkey 
prove a better combination than the con- 
ventional creamed onions. 

Horn-of-Plenty-Salad 

The sentiment of Thanksgiving is car- 
ried out in this artistic salad. Select 
uniform carrots, shaped like conucopias, 
and scoop out the large end to form a 
cup. Fill with tiny pieces of cooked 
potatoes, beets, peas, carrots, celery, 
olives and nuts, dressed with French 
dressing. Lay the carrots on small in- 
dividual plates for serving and scatter 
some of the contents of the "horn" on 
the plate. Garnish with cress or parsley. 

The Brozi'n Bread Sandwiches to sen-e 
with this salad may be cut in tiny 
rounds, crescents, squares, and oblongs ; 
a filling of nuts ground and mixed with 
salad dressing may be used. 



Pumpkin Pie in Cups 

A somewhat lighter form of pie may 
be had and will suit those who are es- 
pecially fond of the filling, if the mixture 
be poured into individual custard cups 
and a rim of pastr}' be put around the 
top. When cold garnish with whipped 
cream put through the pastrs' bag. 

Mince Pie in Ramekins 

These are made with only one crust, 
as the deep English pies, individual rame- 
kins being filled with the hot mince meat, 
and the pie crust placed on top. A piece 
of Edam cheese is placed on the ramekin 
saucer when ser\^ed. 

Mulled Cider 

To ever\^ two quarts of cider add one 
nutmeg crushed, not grated, fine ; six 
whole cloves, and a few strips of cin- 
namon bark. If the cider is sharp, add 
half a cup of light brown sugar. Simmer 
gently, never allowing it to boil. Keep 
it lightly covered and cook fifteen min- 
utes. Serve while steaming hot. 

The dates may be stuffed with dates 
or fondant as preferred. The candy is 
the old-fashioned pulled candy, which is 
such a splendid accompaniment to nuts 
and dried fruits. 

Such a Thanksgiving dinner, in which 
the sentiment is kept even in the foods 
selected, yet varied somewhat in prep- 
aration and serving, should prove a suc- 
cess. 

As a centerpiece, there is none more 
attractive than a variety of harvest fruits 
and vegetables. Often the grains in 
sheaf can be used, a miniature sheaf be- 
ing arranged effectively. Small bouquets 
of wheat make attractive favors. 




Food Combinations 



By Grace Viall Gray 



THERE is scarcely a housewife, un- 
less she has made a scientific study 
of food combinations, who knows 
just what vegetables, sauces and gar- 
nishes should be served with certain 
meats. 



Miss Ruth Michaels, Associate Pro- 
fessor of Home Economics at the Iowa 
State College, has outlined the following 
proper food combinations, which are in- 
valuable to housewives in planning the 
three meals a day. 



Meats 




Vegetables 


Sauces 


Garnishes 


Pork 


White Potatoes 


Champagne for Ham 


Baked Apple 




Sweet Potatoes 


Pepper Sauce 


Apple Rings 




Spinach 


Cider Apple Sauce 


Parsley 




Beets 




Sour Jelly 




Cauliflower 




Glazed Potatoes 




Cabbage 






Lamb 


White Potatoes 


Madeira 


Glazed Potatoes 


Mutton 


Sweet Potatoes 


Mushroom 


Parsley 




Rice Croquettes 


Onion 


Endive 




Farina Croq\iettes 


Currant 


Mint or Currant Jelly 




Cucumbers 


Horseradish 






Spinach 


Cherry 


• 




Squash 


Caper 




Veal 


Creamed Spinach 


Cream 


Parsley 




White Potatoes 


Brown 


Macaroni 




Sweet Potatoes 


Tomato 


Hard-Boiled Eggs 




Beets. Sour Sauce 


Onion 






Cauliflower 


Hollandaise 


Celery Tips 


Poultry 


White Potatoes 


White 


Parsley 




Sweet Potatoes 


Bechamel 


Lettuce 




Rice Croquettes 


Olive 


French Fried Potatoes 




Hominy Croquettes 


Curry Giblet 


Rice Border 


Beef 


White Potatoes 


Brown 


Apple Fritters' 




Sweet Potatoes 


Mustard 


Parsley 




Mushrooms 


Mushroom 


Lemon Rings 






Hominy 


Tomato 


Green Peppers 


Croquettes 




Farina 

Rice 

Macaroni 




Currant Jelly 




Cauliflower 


' 






Brussels Sprouts 








Beets 








Spinach 








Egg Plant 








Peas 






Fish 


Vegetables 


Sauces 


Desserts 


Fried Fish 


Rice 


Tartar 


Chocolate Bread Pudding 


Smelts 


Boiled Potatoes 
and Peas 


Bearnaise 


Apple Tapioca Pudding 


Halibut 


Shredded Potatoes 
and Hot Slaw 


Cream Sauce 


Lejnon Pie 


Lobster Cutlets 


Rice 


Tartare 


Bavarian Cream 


Fish Cutlets 


Rice 


Hollandaise 


Ice Cream 


Hot Boiled Cod 


Scalloped Potatoes 


Egg Sauce 


Cottage Pudding 


Salmon 


Cucumbers, Peas 


Egg Sauce 


Strawberries 


Salt Mackerel 


Cucumber and Lettuce 


Lemon Juice 


Custard Souffle 


(boiled) 


Salad, Peas, Potato 


and Melted Butter 






Balls 


or Parsley Sauce 




Baked Fish 


Shadow Potatoes 
and Cold Slaw 


Hollandaise Sauce 


Lemon Souffle 


Broiled Shad 


Asparagus on Toast, 
Cucumber & Lettuce 
Salad 


White Sauce 


Prune Whip 


Fish Croquettes 


Radishes 


Tomato 


Steamed Pudding 








304 





FOOD COMBINATIONS 



305 



After a short study of the preceding 
outline a housekeeper will quickly note 
that with pork the flavor vegetables, 
such as cabbage or cauliflower, are rec- 
ommended. The vegetables that are 
usually served with vinegar are desirable 
with pork. 

There are really six general rules to 
remember in serving all forms of pork. 

1. Use acid fruits, such as apples, with 
pork. 

2. Use acid vegetables, such as beets with 
pork (beets are a sweet vegetable.) 

3. Use flavor vegetables, cabbage or cauH- 
flower. 

4. Use only one starchy vegetable — potatoes. 

5. Use simple desserts — gelatine or fruits. 

6. Use sour jelly — currant. 

If such rules are followed, you will 
have a well-balanced meal. 

Here is a suggestive well-balanced 
dinner: 

Roast Pork Currant Jelly (sour jelly) 

Browned Potatoes (starchy vegetable) 

Gravy Sliced Tomatoes (sour vegetable) 

Apples Baked in Casserole (simple dessert) 

The following is a dinner too rich in 
fat and starch and lacks acid : 

Roast Pork Grape Jelly 

Browned Potatoes Rice Croquettes 

Gravy Suet Pudding 

If a more elaborate dinner were de- 
sired, cabbage or beet salad could be 
added. 

The well-balanced dinner requires 
nothing but the oven heat, as the pork 
and apples can be cooking at the same 
time. 

In serving a slice of boiled ham, try 
pineapple as a garnish instead of apple. 
Pineapple, canned in slices, is excellent, 
fried in the pan in which the ham was 
prepared. Turn the slices until tender 
and browned to a golden color. Use no 
sugar. Home canned pineapple are just 
as good fried this way, in which case 
sugar must be sprinkled over the pine- 
apple to make it Drown. 

If you wish mint jelly to serve with 
lamb or mutton and cannot procure the 
fresh mint, you can purchase the mint 
flavor in jello form, so that boiling 
water is all that is needed to make an 
appetizing, good-flavored green jelly. 



To those vegetables mentioned in the 
outline, we can add carrots, pease and 
onions, as mutton is improved by the 
addition of any of these. 

Dumplings go well with mutton, and 
if they are used consider them as the 
starchy vegetable. 

Here is a suggestive mutton dinner: 

Cream of Pea Soup 

Boiled Mutton. Dumplings Caper Sauce 

Spanish Rice 

Caramel Custard 

Rice with tomatoes, such as Spanish 
rice, is an excellent combination for 
mutton. Potatoes should not be served 
in that case. 

Veal also is good with dumplings and 

horseradish sauce. The following would 

do for a veal dinner: 

Vegetable Soup 

V' eal Cutlets Tomato Sauce Mashed Potatoes 

Lima Beans Celery 

Rice Pudding 

A pleasing change in serving poultry 
is to use rice in place of white potatoes. 
Both are starchy vegetables, and if rice 
is used as a vegetable the gravy is served 
with it. Rice should be used more than 
it is to take the place of potato. 

A good combination is : 

Potato Soup 

Stewed Chicken Gravy Boiled Rice 

Mashed Turnips 

Celery Combinaton Salad 

Orange Ice 

We should object to following potato soup 

with stewed chicken ; the combination is about 

equivalent to two hearty soups. — Editor. 

Or another could be : 

Roast Chicken 

Baked Sweet Potatoes Creamed Cauliflower 

Cranberry Sauce 

Peach Short Cake 

To the outline for poultry we can add, 
as vegetables, turnips, cauliflower, let- 
tuce, sliced tomatoes, shell beans, and 
lima beans. Egg sauce goes well with 
boiled fowl, and cranberry sauce with 
chicken, turkey and duck. Pork and 
duck are both fatty food. In serving 
duck follow the same rules as pork. 

Broiled steak is delicious served with 
horseradish sauce or with the pineapple 
rings mentioned in connection with 
pork. 



306 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



An excellent combination is : 

Tomato Soup without stock 

Roast Beef Yorkshire Pudding 

Browned Potatoes 

Brown Gravy Currant Jelly 

Squash 

Tomato and Lettuce Salad (not necessary) 

Chocolate Cornstarch Pudding 

In the outline corn seems to be omit- 
ted. One rule to be observed, in plan- 
ning meat, is to consider whether a cer- 
tain vegetable is served as a daily ration 



to the animal that is to grace our board. 
For instance, we should never be guilty 
of serving corn at the same time we 
serve chicken, for as we see the chicken 
on the platter and the corn in the dish 
our thought is ''corn-fed chicken." Corn 
should not appear with poultry of any 
kind, but can be used with any other 
meat. It is best with beef or mutton. 

Corn custard or corn croquettes with poultry 
is a favorite combination with which we see 
no fault. — Editor. 



Breakfast Parties 



HERE in the South where the hot 
weather makes daytime festivi- 
ties impossible during several months 
of the year, the pretty custom of 
breakfast parties has sprung up and 
become one of the favorite forms of 
entertainment. 

A breakfast party may be as elab- 
orate as a luncheon and as gay as a 
tea, and there are many dishes pecu- 
liar to breakfast which make a pleas- 
ant variation in the usual menu of 
luncheons and dinners. The party 
may be any time from nine to eleven, 
as large or as small, as formal or as 
unconventional as one pleases, and 
certainly a house with white wood- 
work, long French windows and 
bright chintz hangings and old ma- 
hogany furnishings never looks love- 
lier than in the morning sunshine, nor 
a table more appetizing than w^hen 
spread with a simple cloth and with 
the coffee percolating in its glass 
globe beside the hostess' place. 

One may start a breakfast party 
with fruit, and of course there must 
be a cereal served in the finest of 
china and with thick cream passed on 
a silver plate by a smiling darkey. 
The main dish may be an omelette, 
perhaps a sweetbread omelette served 
in pattie cups, with thin bacon, hot 
bread, freshly made coffee and jam. 



Then, since you are in the South, you 
must end with waffles, hot waffles 
with powdered sugar and whipped 
cream — a breakfast that inflicts an 
irreparable injury upon luncheon but 
which justifies its name by its menu 
if not by its hour. 

The Southern woman not only 
prides herself upon her social gifts but 
upon her efficiency as a housekeeper, 
and surely there never were more 
gracious and spontaneous hostesses 
than the Southern ones. In some 
towais Lent is very strictly observed, 
but the exchange of hospitality, al- 
though curtailed, loses only in elabor- 
ateness and not in artistry. A lunch- 
eon of four, with a simple soup, fol- 
lowed by fish croquettes and lentils, 
plain hot beaten biscuits and a fresh 
lettuce salad with tea and crackers 
and cheese conforms to the austerity 
befitting the season, and yet maintains 
the daintiness that makes a meal a 
ceremony instead of a duty. 

There is an easy leisure to the 
Southern dinner party that doubles its 
beauty, and the spacious houses and 
quietly moving colored servants sug- 
gest old-time romances where domes- 
tic science and household efficiency 
were a part of women's consciousness 
rather than of their education. — Agnes 
Edwards, 



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Contributions to this department will be. gladly received, 
paid for at reasonable rates. 




Accepted items will be 



Tango Salad 

TANGO SALAD was invented by 
George Kinsman of the Cave Grill, 
at The Mount Washington Hotel, Bret- 
ton Woods, who has served it as the 
piece de resistance of the season. Juicy 
pears of uniform size are selected, and 
they are pared and cored. The cavity 
in the centre is filled with cheese, and 
some white heart lettuce leaves are ar- 
ranged upon each salad plate; the pears 
are laid on these and Tango Dressing 
is poured over them. Tango dressing 
is a twin sister to Russian Dressing; it 
is a little more highly colored and sea- 
soned with mustard and chili sauce. A 
little practise is necessary, and each per- 
son can add his own individual touch, 
not forgetting to have plenty of minced 
pimientos. The combination of mayon- 
naise and French dressing with the vari- 
ous hot seasonings is delicious with the 
pear and cheese. 

Eggs Marchesa 

A CHARMING Italian Marchesa, 
whose circumstances were so much 
reduced that she was obliged to ''make 
her own menage" as the French say, 
threw up her hands in mock horror, 
when we happened to call around lunch- 
eon time. 

*'Dio, mio!" she ejaculated. 'Tf we 
were in Italy, I could manage ; but in 
this London, where there is nothing, 
what shall I do, my friends ? But wait ; 
we shall see" — for she had insisted up- 



on our remammg. 

Fifteen minutes later, we sat down to 
a luncheon that was perfection in its 
simplicity — bread and wine, a salad, 
cheese, fruit and a platter of delicious 
eggs, unlike any we had ever tasted be- 
fore. We said as much. "Neither have 
I ever tasted them before," laughed the 
^larchesa. In fact, I invented them to- 
day, an invention born of necessity," 
And this is how they were done : — 

Muffin tins were buttered and set up- 
on the range to warm. In the bottom 
of each, she put a teaspoonful of soft 
bread crumbs. In each was put a des- 
sertspoonful of milk, then an egg was 
carefully broken in, and seasoned with 
salt, pepper, and paprika. Over this a 
dessertspoonful of milk and a small 
lump of butter were put ; a few more 
bread crumbs were sprinkled over, and, 
last, grated cheese — in this case, Par- 
mesan and Swiss cheese mixed in equal 
quantities — topped the eggs, which were 
whisked into a hot oven and baked about 
ten minutes. They should be golden 
brown. A knife was run around the 
edge and they were turned out upon a 
platter, looking like little brown puff 
balls, and melting into deliciousness in 
one's mouth. g. b. p. 

* * * 

Pacific Salad 

ONE cup of sphagetti, broken small, 
boiled and blanched as usual. 
Then add one good-sized stalk of tender 
celery, cut in bits; remove seeds from 
two green peppers, cut fine, and add to 



307 



308 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the sphagetti and celery ; add two sweet 
cucumber pickles, cut in circles, and 
plenty of good boiled salad dressing. 
Lay the mixture on lettuce leaves, set 
slices of hard-boiled egg above, then 
more salad, and garnish the top with a 
few slices of egg. For this quantity 
four eggs should be boiled. 

Xew- Style Pumpkin Pie 

I had a baked pie shell, and I experi- 
mented with a filling, and ever\' one said 
the result was delicious. Put one-half 
pint of rich milk on to scald; beat the 
yolks of two eggs, and a little cold water, 
with one level teaspoonful of cornstarch, 
one-fpurth a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
third cup of sugar and one well-rounded 
tablespoonful and a half of pumpkin, a 
little nutmeg, cinnamon, and ginger. 
When well mixed, add to the hot milk, 
and cook until thick enough to be of the 
right consistency to hold its shape; put 
in the baked crust, and cover with a 
meringue made of the two egg-whites ; 
cook just long enough to cook the me- 
ringue. I never heard of a pumpkin pie 
like this, and it's not only fine, but, if 
the shell is baked Saturday, a fresh pie 
may easily be served on Sunday. 

s. J. E. 
* * * 

A Xew Vegetable 

THIS summer a man, much inter- 
ested in gardening, brought me a 
new vegetable to try. It is called Sum- 
mer Asparagus, and is shaped somewhat 
like a summer squash ; it has a thin 
green skin, resembling that of a water- 
melon in coloring and smoothness. In- 
side it is fleshy, the seeds being very 
small and white, smaller than those of 
a young cucumber. To cook, I cut it 
in inch and one-half length pieces, and 
when tender, drained, and dressed with 
melted butter, white pepper and salt. 
The flavor is delicious and I should class 
the new product as a very superior va- 
riety of summer squash. Unlike squash, 
however, it is best served unmashed. 



]\Iy donor procured his seed from ;i 
well-known seedhouse in Rochester, 
Xew York. 

Xext year I intend to have some 
grown on my own place. e. r. w. 

A Substitute for Whipped Cream 

ADD one-third a cup of boiling water 
to one cup of confectioners' sugar. 
Stir over fire until sugar dissolves; let 
it boil until it forms a soft ball in cold 
water, pour slowly and whip into the 
white of one egg, beaten stiff. Add four 
marshmallows, and continue whipping 
until cool. 

This looks almost like whipped cream, 
and is of about the same consistency. 
It is delicious served on fruit or short- 
cakes, and will keep perfectly in the re- 
frigerator for several days. e. g. b. 
* * * 

Canned Goods b}^ the Case 

THE entire matter of the supply of 
canned goods from year to year 
is a difiicult one. One season a certain 
brand of vegetables will be almost as 
good as fresh ones, and another the 
same brand will be hard and flavorless. 
This can probably be explained by the 
various climatic conditions which beset 
the cannets, but, since it is so, we have 
found it wise ever}- autumn to purchase 
one can each of three or four different 
brands of peas, corn, tomatoes, &c. of 
that particular season's picking and, af- 
ter deciding which is best, to lodge an 
order for the winter's supply. There is 
no question whatever that there is a sav- 
ing in buying canned goods by the case 
and in this way one is sure to obtain the 
best possible returns for the money 
invested. 

Garnished Vegetables 

Every housekeeper who travels in 
Europe is sure to be impressed by the 
universality of the custom of garnishing 
cold meats. \Mierever one goes, even 
up in the mountains or back in the for- 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



309 



ests, the European housewife has not 
allowed a scrap of vegetable to escape 
her. If it is only one slice of cold beet 
or tomato, one-half a pepper, two sprigs 
of cress, or a single leaf of lettuce, 
the vegetable is either sliced or cut in 
squares and heaped at the end of the 
platter. A small cucumber pickle will 
be thin-sliced, a yolk of a hard-boiled 
egg will be sliced, or a small sweet pickle 
will be cut in pieces, to add the desired 
garnish, and to the bulk of the dish as 
well. It is claimed that this is an actual 
economy, for one eats bread with the 
relish, and is likely to eat less of the 
meat, which is always the more expen- 
sive item. It certainly adds greatly to 
the attractiveness of the table. 

Nuremburg Lebkuchen 

Outside the great cities one never sees 
the Nuremburg Lebkuchen, those cakes 
so famous that for scores of years they 
have maintained an international repu- 
tation. However, it is very simple to 
decorate any cookies in the way in which 
they are adorned, simply by rolling out 
the cooky mixture thin, cutting it in ob- 
longs about three and one-half by two 
inches, placing four blanched almonds 
diagonally at the corners like the petals 
of an opened flower, and setting an inch- 
long slice of crystallized fruit in the cen- 
tre, it is possible to make cakes that look 
exactly as if they had come out of a for- 
eign delicatessen shop. Treated in this 
manner they are both pretty and unusual 
for serving with afternoon tea or coffee. 

'M. V. 

* * * 
Egg Facts 

AN egg is one of the things that is 
not improved by a bath. The sur- 
face is a ready lodging-place for bacteria 
of various kinds, and water drives them 
through the pores of the shell and in- 
fects the contents. Contrary to popular 
belief, eggs absorb odors almost as read- 
ily as does milk or butter. They should 
not be placed near onions or other food 



substances that would taint dairy prod- 
ucts. In the household, eggs should be 
kept in a dry, cool place. They are soon 
affected by damp and mold. 

Never buy dirty-looking eggs. It is 
economical in the end to pay a few cents 
per dozen extra for large, clean eggs that 
have a realiable dealer's guarantee of 
being strictly fresh. Eggs known to 
have come from a modern poultry farm 
are to be preferred, as the hens here 
have been fed a well-balanced ration, of 
which grain forms the principal part. 
This gives the eggs greater nourishment, 
finer flavor, and increased healthfulness 
as human food, as contrasted with eggs 
from hens that are compelled to forage, 
with bugs, worms and grasses is the 
chief reliance. 

Storage eggs, if in right condition, 
when put away and kept under proper 
temperature conditions, are wholesome, 
but when taken out of cold air, deteri- 
orate more rapidly than fresh eggs. The 
housewife who buys storage eggs should 
keep them in the refrigerator until used. 
Good eggs rank with the most valuable 
of foods in supplying energy to the 
human system, but infected or diseased 
eggs are a menace. 

Analysis tells us that an egg contains 
the same constituents, practically, as corn 
and wheat, but has a larger per cent, of 
protein. To the chemist the egg is sim- 
pl}' water, protein, fat, ash, etc., the same 
as wheat and corn. The only vital food 
distinction betw^een a bushel of wheat 
and a bushel of eggs is that the eggs are 
more palatable and nutricious. They 
are also more valuable when placed upon 
the market. 

Without the shells, one dozen eggs of 
average size contain 13.57 ounces of 
water, 2.32 ounces of protein, 2.26 
ounces of fat, and 0.22 ounces of ash. 
In buying eggs at 40 cents per dozen, we 
are paying 25 cents for water. But, even 
at that, eggs are ordinarily cheaper than 
meat, taking prices and nutritive prop- 
erties into account. To the farmer, eggs 
are worth, as a product of his industry, 



310 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



from 10 cents a pound upward, accord- 
ing to the time of year, a pound of wheat 
being worth from one to two cents. In 
being fed to the hen the wheat is con- 
verted by a dehcate process of manufac- 
ture, by means of a ''plant" provided by 
nature, into a form of food so palatable 
and wholesome that it commands many 
times the price of wheat sold from the 
bin or sack. c. c. j. 

* * * 

Ginger Sweets. A New Kind of 
Candy 

Needed : 
French fondant (or the common kind will do) 
Crisp candied ginger 
Few drops best Jamaica Ginger 

WORK the flavoring into the fon- 
dant, mould into balls, and sand- 
wich with pieces oi ginger cut to fit. The 
effect is not unlike that of a cream- 
walnut. 

It may sound "painful", but it is no 
more so than the old-fashioned pepper- 
mint. In fact, I made them because I 
w^as tired of the old-time *'stomach- 
warmer," which even a girl has a han- 
kering after occasionally. It costs seven 
cents for a pound of sugar for the fon- 
dant. Ten cents' worth of the candied 
ginger would feed the whole crowd. 

(N. B. This candy was made to go 
with ice cream, with which most candy 
is rather too sweet.) b, c. n. 

* * * 

Apple Shortcake 

Core six red apples and cook, without 
removing the skins, in boiling w^ater until 
tender. Remove the skins carefully, re- 
placing any red pulp removed with them. 
Quarter and arrange on rounds of crust. 
Serve with well-flavored, sweetened 
whipped cream. 



4 tablespoonfuls but- 
ter 
i teaspoonful salt 
Milk (about f cup) 



H cups flour 
^ cup cornstarch 
2 tablespoonfuls sugar 
4 teaspoonfuls bak- 
ing-powder 

Make a very soft dough, pat out and 

cut in rounds of desired size. Bake in 

hot oven. 



Autumn Salad 

Seed half a pound of pink grapes; 
stone and quarter a dozen dates ; chop 
rather fine a half dozen figs and add half 
a cup of pecan meats. Toss with four 
tablespoonfuls of oil, one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of sah and two tablespoonfuls 
of lemon juice. If arranged upon leaves 
of head lettuce and the grapes used 
without removing the skins, the salad 
will present the Fall colors. 

Carrot Pudding 

Practical Cooking and Serving 

I 1 teaspoonful cinna- 



1 pound carrots 
1 pound suet 
1 cup sugar 
li cups of flour 

1 teaspoonful salt 

2 teaspoonfuls bak 
ing-powder 



mon 
1 teaspoonful nutmeg 
i teaspoonful ground 

cloves 
i a pound currants 
^ a pound raisins 



Weigh the carrots, after peeling and 
grating. Mix the suet, chopped fine, with 
the fruit, and then with the carrots ; then 
add the baking-powder, spices, and flour, 
sifted together. Steam in a mold three 
hours and a half. Serve with a wine 
sauce. (One is unable to distinguish the 
taste of carrots in this pudding. Many 
prefer a hard sauce flavored with orange 
juice). MRS. A. B. w. 

* * * 

Decorative Tea Tray 

TN place of the usual cretonne or tap- 
estry, placed under the glass of the 
popular mahogany tea trays, I recently 
saw a most effective and interesting sub- 
stitute. A small photograph of the own- 
er's bungalow had been enlarged to the 
required size, and, in warm brown tones, 
was especially attractive made up with 
the mahogany frame. 

This tray would look well placed on 
the sideboard or plate rail of the dining 
room. R. R- 

In making rhubarb, cherry, or any 
berry pie that is very juicy, try beat- 
ing an egg light, and mixing in the 
sugar required by the fruit ; add a little 
flour, mix thoroughly, and then bake. 



^^ 


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'T'HIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipe; » 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit Si. 00, Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query 2230. — "Recipe for Mixed Mustard 
Pickle." 

Mixed JNIustard Pickle 



1 quart green toma- 
toes 
1 cauliflower 
5 green peppers 



1 quart ripe cucum- 
bers 

1 quart small green 
cucumbers 

1 quart onions 

Cut all the above in pieces, and put 
separately in weak salt and water for 
twenty-four hours. Scald each separ- 
ately in same water and drain. 

For the Dressing 

6 tablespoonfuls 4 tablespoonfuls eel- 
white mustard seed ery seed 

1 tablespoonful li cups sugar 

tumeric 1 cup flour 

1 tablespoonful 2 quarts vinegar 
ground mustard 

Scald the vinegar, mix together the 
ground mustard, tumeric, sugar, and 
flour, and stir into the hot vinegar ; con- 
tinue to stir until the mixture thickens, 
set the dish into boiling water, cover and 
let cook fifteen or twenty minutes ; add 
the seeds and pour, hot, Over the pre- 
pared vegetables. 



Query 2231.— "Recipe for "Velvet Cake." 



Velvet Cake 



i cup butter 
H cups sugar 
4 egg-yolks 
i cup cold water 
li cups flour 



J cup cornstarch 
4 level teaspoonfuls 

baking powder 
4 egg-whites 



Mix in the usual manner, sifting the 
flour, cornstarch, and baking powder to- 
gether. Bake in a sheet, and cover with 
a boiled frosting made of three-fourths a 



cup of sugar, one-third a cup of water, 
and one white of egg. 



Query 2232. — "Recipe for 'a rich light Nut 
Cake, something extra nice.' " 



Xut Cake 



i cup butter 
U cups sugar 

1 cup chopped nut 
meats 

2 eggs 



1 cup milk 

2 cups flour 

2 slightly rounding 
teaspoonfuls 
baking powder 



Add the nut meats to the sugar, 
creamed into the butter, then the eggs, 
beaten without separating the whites and 
yolks, and, alternately, the milk and 
flour sifted again with the baking pow- 
der. Bake in a loaf about one hour. 



Query 2233. — "Recipe for Noisette Bread." 

Noisette Bread 



i to 1 whole yeast 

cake 
i cup lukewarm 

water 
2 cups scalded-and- 

cooled milk 
2 tablespoonfuls 

shortening 



i cup molasses 
1 teaspoonful salt 
1 cup noisette or fil- 
bert meats (whole) 
1 cup white flour 
About 6 CUDS whole 
wheat flour 



The small quantity of yeast is for 
mixing at night, the whole cake (com- 
pressed yeast) when mixing in the morn- 
ing. Melt the shortening in the milk; 
add the salt, molasses, nuts, and when 
cooled, the yeast, mixed with the water, 
and stir in the flour. Knead until 
smooth and elastic. When light, shape 
into two loaves. When again light, bake 
about one hour. 
311 



312 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Query 2234. — "To what uses can Almond 
Paste be put besides the making of maca- 
roons?" 

Almond Cream Filling for 
Bismarck Rings 

Beat one- fourth a cup of butter to a 
cream ; gradually beat in one-fourth a 
cup of almond paste, then one-fourth a 
cup of sugar, and the yolks of two eggs. 
Have ready light balls of Vienna yeast 
mixture (dough) ; roll each into a thin 
sheet, spread with the filling, roll and 
bring the ends together. When light 
slash across the top, and bake. Eat hot 
with coffee or cocoa. 

Almond Fondant Sticks 

2i cups sugar 4 ozs. almond paste 

i cup glucose 1 teaspoon ful vanilla 

I cup water 

Stir the sugar, glucose and water over 
the fire until the sugar is dissolved ; 
wash down the sides of the saucepan 
with a brush (or fingers) wet in cold 
water ; cover, and let boil three minutes ; 
then uncover, and let boil to 238° F. 
(soft ball). Add the almond paste, cut 
into small pieces ; let boil once, then 
turn on to a damp marble or platter. 
When about cold turn to a cream with 
a wooden spatula, cover, and let stand 
about half an hour. Knead a portion 
into a small ball ; then roll it lightly un- 
der the fingers into a long strip, the 
thickness of a pencil, cut the strips into 
pieces about one inch and a half in 
length, and let stand to harden a little ; 
dip in chocolate fondant and drop upon 
table oil-cloth. Other recipes for use of 
almond paste will be given in the De- 
cember issue of this magazine. 



Query 2235. — "Recipe for 'Chocolate Brow- 
nies.' " 

Chocolate Brownies 



4 tcaspoonful vanilla 

* cup flour 

^ cup pecan nut 

meats broken in 

pieces 

Stir the sugar into the butter ; add the 
egg, melted chocolate, vanilla, flour and 



1 cup sugar 

i cup melted butter 

1 egg, unbeaten 

2 ounces chocolate, 
melted 



nuts in the order given. Line a square, 
seven-inch pan with waxed paper. 
Spread the brownie mixture evenly in 
the pan and bake in a slow oven. When 
baked turn at once upon a wire cooler, 
remove the paper and with a sharp 
knife cut the cake in strips an inch wide. 



Query 2236. — "Recipes for Peanut Soup, 
Puree, and .Brittle." 



Peanut Soup 



i cup butter 

2 tablespoonfuls flour 

1 teaspoonful salt 
i teaspoonful pap- 
rika 

2 cups milk 



1 pint shelled-and- 
blanched peanuts 
i cup onion 
i cup celery 
i cup carrot 
2i cups white broth 

The nuts should be chopped and 
crushed exceedingly fine ; add the vege- 
tables and broth (water may be used), 
and let simmer twenty minutes. Make 
a sauce of the other ingredients, pour 
the two mixtures together, strain and 
serve at once. 

Peanut Puree 

Chop or crush the nuts; let cook in 
enough water to keep them from burn- 
ing (or in a double boiler) from twenty 
to forty minutes ; press through a very 
fine sieve, add seasoning to taste, and 
reduce by longer cooking to the desired 
consistency. 

Peanut Brittle 



li cups sugar 
^ cup glucose 
§ cup water 
2 tablespoonfuls but- 
ter 



h lb. raw, blanched 

peanuts 
1 teaspoonful soda in 
1 tablespoonful 

water 



Stir the ingredients over the fire un- 
til the sugar is dissolved ; wash down 
the sides of the saucepan with brush (or 
fingers) wet in cold water, cover and let 
cook three minutes, then uncover and let 
cook without stirring to 275° F; add the 
butter and peanuts, and stir constantly 
until the peanuts are well-browned, then 
add the soda dissolved in the water, and 
stir vigorously. Wlien the mixture is 
done foaming, turn it upon a warm, oiled 
marble or platter, and as soon as it can 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




t 



Plain Crisco Pastry 

1^9 cupfuls flour 1 teaspoonful salt 

H cupful Crisco cold water 

(C/ae /ewe/ meaauremenh) 
Sift flour and salt and cut Crisco into flour with knife until 
finely divided. Fing^er tips may be used to finish blending 
materials. Add gradually sufficient water to make stiff 
paste. Water should be added sparingly and mixed 
with knife through dry ingredients. Form 
lightly and quickly with hand into dough : 
roll out on slightly floured board, 
about one-quarter inch thick. 
Use light motion in handling 
rolling-pin, and roll from 
center outward. Suffi- -"^^ 
cient for one 
small pie. "^ 



Solving the Pie 
Problem 



In many homes pie is a 
problem. In almost 
every home it is a 
favorite dessert. 



Many people cannot eat 
pie without discomfort. 
^ Mothers oftentimes do 
\ not care to have their 
children eat it because 
they consider it in- 
digestible. 




J Crisco gives pastry 
«»*r a new wholesome- 
ness and delicacy. 
Crisco pie crust is light 
and flaky. 

(risco 

^^ /or Frying -For Shortening 
^>i^ For Ca/ce Makin§ 



Beautiful cloth - bound book of 
new recipes and a "Calendar of 
Dinners" for five 2-cent stamps! 

This handsome book by Marion Harris Neil gives 615 
excellent tested recipes. Also contains a "Calendar of 
Dinners" — a dinner menu for every day in the year. The 
Calendar tells ijohat^ the recipes tell honju. Book also con- 
tains cookery hints and the interesting story of Crisco' s 
development. Bound in blue and gold cloth. To those an- 
swering this advertisement it will be sent iorjive 2-cent stamps. 
Address Dept. A-ll,The Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati,©. 




mj 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
313 



314 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



be handled, pull it out as thin as possi- 
ble. Loosen at the center, and turn the 
sheet upside down, and pull again as 
thin as possible. Break into pieces. To 
blanch the nuts, cover them with boiling 
water, let boil once, then drain, cover 
with cold water, and push off the skins. 



Query 2237. — "How should the fork be left 
on the plate after one is through eating; 
should the tines be turned up or down? 
Should the fork ever be put into the mouth 
with the tines down?" 

Customs at Table 

Mrs. Learned, in "The Etiquette of 
New York Today," says: "When one 
has finished eating, the knife and fork 
are placed close together in the center 
of the plate, the prongs of the fork 
turned up." 

In England food is conveyed to the 
mouth on a fork with the tines down, 
but in this country the custom of using 
the fork with tines upward, is universal. 
Having the tines down insures small 
mouthfuls. 



Query 2238.— "What are the best cuts of 
beef for panbroiling, pot roast, oven roast, 
and how much of each should be purchased 
for four hearty adults?" 

Concerning Special Cuts of Beef 

For panbroiling only tender meat is 
suitable; purchase a sirloin steak, what 
is known as Porter House, of about a 
pound and a half to two pounds. Ham- 
burg steak is also suitable for panbroil- 
ing. One pound and a quarter from the 
top of the round will give four exceed- 
ingly generous portions; for pot roast, 
it is best to cook enough for two or 
three meals, perhaps four or five pounds 
from the rump or round ; for oven roast 
buy the short fillet (under the rump, 
about 2^ lbs.), which is solid meat, or 
two ribs. 



Query 2239. — "Recipes for Amber and 
Orange Marmalade." 



Amber Marmalade 



1 grapefruit 
1 orange 
1 lemon 



7 pints cold water 
5 lbs. (10 cups) sugar 



Wipe the fruit, cut each in quarters, 
and the quarters into very thin slices 
through pulp and rind, discarding all 
seeds. Add the water and let stand 
overnight. Cook until the peel is tender 
(about six hours). Set aside over night. 
Add the sugar, and cook, stirring occa- 
sionally until the syrup thickens slightly 
on a cold dish. When tested with a 
sugar thermometer the mixture should 
be at about 218°F. 

Orange Marmalade 

Prepare any number of oranges as 
above. Allow one lemon to each four 
or five oranges. Take three pints of 
cold water for each pound of prepared 
fruit. Let the fruit stand in the water 
24 hours. Cook till the peel is tender 
(about six hours). Let stand again 24 
hours. Weigh and add one pound of 
sugar for each pound of material, let 
cook until the syrup jellies on a cold 
dish. 



Query 2240. — "What is included in a Beef- 
steak Dinner?" 

Beefsteak Dinner 

According to ''The Caterer" a beef- 
steak dinner, such as is served at cater- 
ing establishments which make a spe- 
cialty of these repasts, consists of the 
following : 



Canape of Caviar 

Celery 

Oyster Cocktail 

Deviled Crab 



Beefsteak 
Lamb Chop 
Waffles and Syrup 
Demi-tasse 



The courses are handed around in the 
order above written, with the exception 
of the celery — that is served continu- 
ously. The conventional price for the 
above dinner is three dollars per head. 

For restaurant service, at $1.25 per 

cover, the "beefsteak" consists of : 

Olives 

Beefsteak and Baked 
Potato 



Oyster Cocktails or 
Steamed Oysters 

Celery 

Radishes 

Pickles-and-Pepper 
Hash 



Lamb Chop 
Waffles and Honey 
Demi-tasse 



The relishes are placed on the table 
and each person receives one stalk of 
(Continued on page 328) 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



(O^ssif^^!! 



Only the best and purest malt 
vinegar-made in our own brewer- 
lci.on the banksof the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England-is used. 



h Uket over two yei« of careful prcpuatioa 
Mi ai«ing to produce the full. rich, mellow flavour 

A good wine cannot be made in a day— neither 
iMl Holbrook't Sauce. 



**It U better to om bo 
•auoe at all tbaa a aauo* 
that M not Holbrook's." 



HOLBROOKE 

LQRGE£PERSHIRE 

n5)VUCE 




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for 10c 

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DOILIES 



and a coupon good for six cents on your first twenty-five cent purchase. 

These doilies are made of heavy, white bond paper, reproducing per- 
fectly real lace and linen in exquisite designs — round, oval and square 
— mailed in sanitary packages. Beautiful, fashionable, economical. 

No more than two sample sets to a customer. 

Milwaukee Lace Paper Co,, Dep't K, Milwaukee, Wis. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
315 



^ 







•f^flaSlEli I. 



|9.E ■ii^u!"liii!*i 



g 



I ^ool^ 



f> m 




Principles of Cooking. By Emma COn- 

LEY. Price $.52. Amerieari Book 

Company, New York. 

"Principles of Cooking is intended as 

a textbook in cooking and elementary 

food study for secondary and vocational 

schools. It is not merely a cook book. 

The principles of cooking are few in 

number and are easily mastered, if prop- 



. Hence it may be inferred this is a 
prett)^ well-designed and well-executed 
textbook in Domestic Science. 

T/ie Apsley Cookery Book. New edition. 

, Price $1.40 net. P. Blakiston's Son 
& Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 

This^bQok is simply a cookery book 
for the "Uric-acid-free" diet ; it is not its 



erly presented. Foods may be grouped ..proyince^ to explain the medical founta- 
in less than a dozen classes, and when~ tioifs^,^^- tjbiis,, diet; which are explained 
the principles which apply to each class , in tliii%Hentific %mtirigs of its originator. 



are learned and practiced, each pupil will 
know how to prepare a variety of dishes 
from each food or class of foods. 

The object of domestic science work 
in schools is that a girl may learn how 
to plan, cook, and serve meals at home, 
calculate the cost, and purchase foods in 
the best market at the lowest price. This 
includes knowing the nutritive value of 
each food and its place in the diet. 

Unless considerable practice is given 



The writers have, however, thought it 
advisable and helpful to give the follow- 
ing extracts from a useful leaflet by the 
author_of_the system: 

"It is just as -impossible to keep up 
strength and nutrition without nitrogen 
as without oxygen. 

"We generally depend for our nitro- 
gen upon substances containing albu- 
mens, and it is the habit of this country 
at the present day to get it almost en- 



in schools in planning and preparing , tirely from animal albumens, in ignorant 
meals, a pupil may be able to cook one" disregard crf^the poison that animal tis- 
or two single foods, but she cannot pre-^'^^'^sues contaitil^-r 

pare all the dishes needed for a meal and "It can be calculated from the data 
have them ready to serve at a stated given in w?©rks on Physiology that a 
time. V- ' . .,;^aji, in order to get enough nitrogen. 

It is with this aim in mind, that^al^; »^ust be supplied with from 8 to 11 grs. 
cooking in schools should lead to the ' '^'f albumen per day for each pound of 
preparation of attractive, appetizing, nu- body weight. Children require more; 



tritious, well-balanced meals, that "Prin- 
ciples of Cooking" and its companion 
book, "Nutrition and Diet," are written. 
If an intelligent study is made of the 
principles of cooking and their applica- 
tion, preparing foods will no longer be a 
work of uncertainty, but an interesting, 
scientific, and comparatively easy pro- 
cess, and the preparing of nutritious, 
wholesome, and balanced meals will be a 
pleasure." 



while, old and sedentary people may re- 
quire considerably less than the adult 
allowance. 

: H.. "And now, applying the rule of th6 
relation of albumen to body weight: — 

"A young adult weighing (after de- 
ducting weight of clothing) ten stone, 
or 140 lbs., and leading a hard-working 
life, would have to consume 140x10= 
1400 grs. of albumen per day, and these 
might be got as follows: — 



316 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




On written request we will mail — -free of charge — a booklet, 
colore^ prints especially designed for all young folks, 



^^ The Spicanspan Folks" containing six beautiful 
''Old Dutch,'' I4S West Monroe St. Chicago 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
317 



318 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



17 ozs. bread (8 per cent, albu- 

mens^34 grs. per oz.) =: 578 grs. 
2 pints milk (3 per cent, albu- 

mens=13 grs. per oz.) = 525 grs. 

1 oz. cheese {33 per cent, al- 
bumensi=140 grs. per oz.) =: 140 grs. 

2 ozs. rice (5 per cent, albu- " 
mens=21 grs. per oz.) = 43 grs. 

14 oz. vegetables and fruit (2 
per cent. albumens=8 grs. 
per oz.) = 114 grs. 

1400 grs. 

"If this man lives and works in the 
open air, he may have such a good appe- 
tite for bread, macaroni, rice, potatoes, 
nuts and fruit, that no milk and cheese 
will be required; but those who live in 
towns and are more sedentary, will gen- 
erally require to add these latter to a 
greater or less extent." 

The book is excellent and thoroughly 
well-adapted to the special line of diet 
for which it was intended. 

The Source, Chemistry and Use of Food 
Products. By E. W. S. Bailey. 
Cloth. Price $1.60 net. P. Blakis- 
ton's Son & Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 

The plan followed in treating of the 
important foods and beverages found in 
the markets of the world is to discuss 
their source, methods of preparation for 
the market, how they are packed, pre- 
served and shipped, their composition 
and nutrient and dietetic value, and 
their use by people of different countries. 

The book will be found sufficiently 
complete to serve as a text for students 
of foods in Colleges and High Schools, 
and to supplement and give more com- 
pleteness to ordinary courses in Prep- 
aration of Food, Selection and Economic 
Use of Food, and Dietetics. 

It is only by knowing what good, 
wholesome food is, its composition and 
appearance, that we can hope for an 
improvement in the general food supply. 
Our food laws are but the crystallized 
sentiment of the united protest of the 
people against unwholesome and fraudu- 
lent products. 



The book is an important contribution 
to the scientific study of foods. 



Tidbits for the Breakfast Tray 

By JEANNETTE YOUNG NORTON 

THE keeping of late hours makes 
the breakfast a movable feast in 
most fashionable households, 
and the butler's pantry reminds one of 
a Sanitarium with the trays standing 
about to be taken upstairs as they are 
rung for. 

New tidbits are constantly searched 
for to make the meal fascinatingly 
tempting to the jaded appetite, so that 
new >ideas of service and odd recipes are 
welcome to one and all who have these 
breakfasts to prepare. 

Whatever fruits are served should be 
most thoroughly washed and iced and 
served as nearly ready to eat as possible. 
The cereal, from now on, should be the 
lightest and least heating and can be 
jelled in individual molds and served 
cold with cream, or fresh honey. 

Gluten, Imperial Granum, Wheatlet, 
Farina, Manioca and Cream of Wheat 
are all good jelled and served this way. 

In the egg dishes the poached on 
toast, the fried ones, served on a lattice 
of bacon strips on a toast square, and 
the little omelettes of jelly, fine herbs 
or plain, are regular offerings. Meat of 
any kind, lest it be an occasional chop, 
calf's liver and bacon strips, kidney 
stew or giblet patte is rarely offered. 



REFRIGERATORS-ICE BOXES 

and all places where meats and foodt 

are kept should be regularly disinfected 

and purified by using 

Platts Chlorides . 

The Odorless Disinfectant 

Destroys germs and foul odors, does not 
permeate the food. 

Safe, Efficient and Economical. Sold Everywhere 

HENRY B. PLATT 
42 Cliff Street. New York City, N. Y. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Those Who Cook With Greatest 
Comfort and Economy Use 



(ps xniord 




And Here Are Some of the REASONS: 

1. Single Damper Control ^^^ Single Damper controls 

fire and oven better than two 
dampers can. Simply push the knob to ''Kindle,*' "Bake'* or 
"Check.** The Range does the rest. 

2. Cup-Joint Oven Flues 

The curved Cup -Joint Oven 

Flues heat the oven in every 
part alike. No *'cold corners," no 
*' scorching spots." 

3. Two Hods in the Base 

A deep Ash Hod, instead 

of a clumsy ash pan, 

catches all of the ashes and can 

be emptied without spilling. 

Coal Hod beside it. 




Gas Ovens if desired — elevated (double) or 

end (single). These ovens are safe; explosions 

are impossible. The end oven has an 

extra broiler at the top, which makes the 

work easier. 



,^^ Ask the CRA WFORD Agent to show 

Coal ( or Wood) Range ^^ you and write us for circulars. 

WALKER 4 PRATT MFG. COMPANY, 31-35 Union St., Boston 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
319 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Creamed haddock or codfish on toast 
rounds are often served and, prettily 
garnished, are very dainty. And broiled 
squab is always acceptable. While on a 
cool day the small well-seasoned sausage 
with hot rice cakes are not to be 
despised. 

There are, however, a few rather new 
things which may be worth while trying 
for the tray, though they may not be 
total strangers. 

Escaloped Crab Meat 

To one cup of crab meat flaked, add a 
half-cup of bread crumbs, salt, pepper, 
three tablespoons of melted butter and 
two of cream, the beaten white of one 
Qgg, toss together lightly and put into 
well-buttered ramekins; sprinkle a few 
crumbs and a wee bit of grated English 
cheese on top and bake a delicate brown. 
Garnish with fresh parsley and serve 
tiny hot biscuits with it. Shrimps are 
excellent fixed in the same way. 




Cheese Pufflets 

Three ounces of grated cheese, one 
tablespoon of flour, one egg, salt, pep- 
per, and a cup of milk, bake ten minutes 
in popover tins. These are good to 
serve with a chop or piece of breaded 
cutlet. 

Stuffed Sweetbread 

After the sweetbread has been par- 
boiled, trim it round and split it, then 
stuff it with this savory force meat. 
One teaspoon bread crumbs, one tea- 
spoon chopped nuts, four button mush- 
rooms chopped fine, two teaspoons of 
Mandalay sauce, one of cream, and two 
of melted butter; put in shallow baking 
pan, dust with pepper, salt and a few 
crumbs, and bake them quickly, basting 
with white wine which has a teaspoon 
of melted currant jelly and six drops 
of kitchen bouquet in it. Serve on 
toast rounds, wet with the gravy, and 
garnish with cress. 

Liver and Apple Rounds 

Boil a half pound of calf's liver until 
tender, then chop fine, season with pep- 
per, salt, and heat in a generous lump 
of melted butter ; when hot, add two 
tablespoons of whipped cream and 
spread on a toast round, then lay an- 
other round on top with a spoonful of 
currant jelly in the center of it. 

Banana Fancies 

Cut red bananas lengthways and roll 
them in egg, then in ground nut meats, 
and sprinkle with pepper and salt ; then 
fry in butter a delicate brown, drain and 
lay on toast, pouring over them a dress- 
ing made by adding a gill of cream, a 
teaspoon of cornstarch mixed in a little 
milk, and a tablespoon of Mandalay 
sauce to the butter they were fried in, 
and when it thickens turn over the ba- 
nanas and serve. 

Tongue Turnovers 

Boil, skin and dice two calves' tongues ; 
make a well-flavored tomato sauce, 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
320 



Menus for Christmas Dinner 

I 

Consomme with Macaroni and Peas 

Olives Celery 

Fried Smelts, Sauce Tartare 

Young Goose Roasted, Potato-and-Onion Stuffing 

Barberry-and-Apple Jelly 

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Mashed Potatoes, Vienna Fashion 

Lemon Sherbet 

Baked Ham, Cider Sauce 

Lettuce, Apple, Celery-and-Pepper Salad 

Mince Pie Nesselrode Pudding 

Tangerine Oranges, Lady Apples, Nuts 

Bonbons Coffee 

II 

Clam-and-Chicken Broth, Soup Biscuit 

Boiled Halibut, Sauce Hollandaise 

French Potato Balls 

Hot House Cucumbers 

Stall Fed Squabs, Roasted 

Rice Croquettes 

Chinese Celery-and-Orange Salad 

Mince Pie Frozen Pudding 

Maple Bonbons Candied Mint Leaves 

Coffee 

III 
Lobster Bouchees 
■ . (tiny patties) 

Chicken-and-Tomato Bouillon 

Fried Fillets (bjeaded) of Fresh Fish, Russian Salad Dressing 

Gf^en Pepper-and-Cabbage Salad 

Sacldle of Young Pig, Roasted 

Barberry Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Onions Stuffed with Mushrooms and Crumbs 

Plum Pudding, Hard and Liquid Sauces 

Marquise Sherbet 

Bonbons Salted Nuts Raisins 

Coffee 

^^ ^^ ^^ 

High Tea, Christmas Eve 

Clam-and-Chicken Broth 

Olives Chinese Celery 

Ham-and-Rice Croquettes, Peas 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Marshmallow Cream 

Honey Cookies Springerlie 

Coffee 



American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



DECEMBER, 1914 



No. 5 



In Belgium 

By Louisa Roberts 



IT was in 57 B. C. that Caesar intro- 
duced the Belgae to the world, which 
just now is divided between pity and 
admiration for the brave descendants of 
those early Belgae. The people of Bel- 
gium are of two distinct races. In South- 
ern Belgium, the manufacturing part of 
the kingdom, live the Walloons, descend- 
ants of the Gauls, a dark, high-strung 
people like the French, thrifty and 
pleasure-loving, the people of Brussels, 
Louvain and Namur. The provinces on 
the North Sea are inhabited by the 
Flemings, a sturdy, blue-eyed, fair- 
haired people of Teutonic origin akin to 
the Dutch. Their language closely re- 
sembles that of Holland. The Flemish 
and the Dutch can read one another's 
newspapers. The population is largely 
engaged in agriculture. The cities are 
Ghent, Bruges, and Antwerp. 

Some of us, who have found Antwerp 
the most convenient port at which to land 
in Europe and have never been able to 
resist "the circular tour of Belgium", are 
wondering if we shall ever again enjoy 
the singular charm of those quaint old 
cities, before we have to say, "Such 
things are no more." The first glimpse 
of Belgium is from the deck of a Red 
Star Steamer in the Scheldt River, which 
divides Holland from Belgium. For 
hours we steam along, with Holland on 
,one side and Belgium on the other, look- 
ing down as from a gallery upon moving- 
pictures of windmills, red-tiled or thatch- 
roofed cottages, green pastures where 



herds of black and white cows are feed- 
ing — all below the level of the sea, but 
behind the dykes. Sometimes we can see 
only the spires of the churches, the wind- 
mills, or the chimneys. The river is full 
of great merchant ships from India, 
China, and South Africa, and of all sorts 
of Httle craft, for Antwerp has one of 
the finest harbors in the world. 



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STATUE OF RUBENS, ANTWERP 



3A7 



348 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Antwerp has been known to history 
since the seventh century. In the six- 
teenth century it was one of the richest 
and most prosperous cities on the conti- 
nent. Under Philip II of Spain and his 
minister, the Duke of Alva, Antwerp 
suffered pillage, fire and siege, But Ant- 
werp rose triumphant over her misfor- 
tunes, and has become a flourishing, 
prosperous city of nearly half a million 
souls — ready again to endure siege for 
the honor of Belgium. There are two 
parts to the city, the prosperous modern 
city, and the medieval city of the Cathe- 
dral, the Hotel de Ville, the guild-houses 
and the quaint market places. 

As soon as we are established in an 
old but comfortable hotel, built about an 
open court, we walk through the Place 
Verte, stopping to look at the statue of 
the giant who used to guard the entrance 
to the harbor, and who cut off the hands 
of those ship captains who refused to 
pay him tribute — hence the name, Ant- 
werp, a corruption of "Hand werpen" — 
but stopping much longer with the mar- 
ket-women in their plain, dark, calico 
dresses, with their hair twisted into tight 



little knots, — sitting among their baskets 
of vegetables, fruits and flowers, knit- 
ting when they were not busy with their 
customers. The women of Belgium car- 
ried the earth to build "the mound" on 
the Battlefield of Waterloo, carried it in 
baskets on their backs, knitting with 
their hands. Will the toil-worn hands of 
the women, now reaping the harvests of 
Belgium, rear monuments for Liege and 
Louvain? For ten centimes we buy 
sweet-smelling red roses, and for five 
centimes some rich, dark cherries ; then 
we find a seat under the trees and watch 
the heavy low-wheeled wagons drawn by 
great Belgian draft horses, and the dog 
carts full of shining brass milk cans. 
And we recall Ouida's story of "The 
Dog of Flanders" — the story of a little 
boy who drove his dog in the milk cart 
over the cobble stones of Antwerp by 
day, and at night poured into the ears of 
the dog his longing to see the holy pic- 
tures of Rubens in the Cathedral, for he 
had not the franc for which the Sacristan 
would roll up the curtains. But one 
Christmas night when the pictures were 
unveiled, boy and dog were found dead 











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VIEW IN ANTWERP 



IN BELGIUM 



349 




AN OLD PALACE OF A COUNT OF FLANDERS, GHENT 



before the pitying eyes of John and 
Mary as they, received the sacred body 
from the cross. 

These thoughts lead us across the 
Place Verte. which was once a burying 
ground, to the Cathedral of Notre Dame, 
the largest and most beautiful specimen 
of Gothic architecture in the kingdom. 
We step softly under the great arched 
roof, impressed by the size and sim- 
plicity of the interior, we ofifer the Sac- 
ristan our franc and stand, at last, be- 
fore Rubens' celebrated pictures, ''The 
Descent from the Cross" and "The Ele- 
vation of the Cross." The old house of 
Rubens is not far away, and in the 
Museum of Paintings there are so many 
pictures by Rubens that we almost agree 
with the American boy who wrote home, 
"Rubens was not a painter, but a fac- 
tory." 

It is less than an hour's ride from 
Antw^erp to Brussels, for Belgium is a 
little kingdom — its greatest extent, east 
and west, is about 160 mile, and, north 
and south, about 115 miles. Oh, the 
beauty, the brilliance, the life of this 
"Little Paris," as Brussels is called ! 
There are three ways to see Brussels^ 



First, follow the guide-book and see all 
the sights; second, just wander about 
the city, or sit on the balcony of your 
hotel and watch the life of the city flow 
past ; third, shop, buy all the pretty 
things you can ; don't save your money 
to spend in Paris or London, for you 
will find nothing there so pretty and 
stylish as in the shops of Brussels. The 
Hotel de \^ille, with its richly decorated 
walls and towers, was the city hall of 
the wealthy Flemish burghers of the 
fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. In 
the same square are the Gothic roofs 
and highly elaborate facades of the guild 
houses of the carpenters, of the print- 
ers, of the tailors, of the brewers. The 
more modern places of interest are the 
art galleries, the Palais de Justice and 
the Royal Palaces. Certainly, the most 
interesting historical sight about Brus- 
sels is the Battlefield of Waterloo ; and 
certainly the best way to go to Waterloo 
is to drive through the Bois de la 
Cambre and the forest of Soignes, 
where there are smooth roads, trees with 
moss-covered trunks, and overhanging 
branches, ravines overgrown with vines 
and ferns — charming — as beautiful as 



350 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




THE MARKET-WOMEN 

the celebrated Forest of Fountainebleau. 
In this way, too, we escape the annoying 
chatter of uncongenial travelers, the glib 
stories of ignorant guides, and can 
leisurely inspect the Chateau de Hou- 
goumont, the sunken road, and La Belle 
Alliance. 

When we have seen sights enough to 
satisfy our consciences, it is pleasant to 
eat a meal at a sidewalk cafe or on the 
balcony of a hotel, and watch the gay 
life of the city stream by — handsome 
men, most of them dark, with pointed 
beards, stylishly dressed women, bright, 
laughing children, peasant men and 
women driving or drawing carts of shin- 
ing brass cans, or bright colored fruits 
and vegetables, — enjoying, if it be break- 
fast, luscious red strawberries, with 
chocolate and rolls ; if it be dinner, a 
delicious salad which the waiter pre- 
pares at the table by slicing tomatoes in- 
to a big blue bowl, then mincing very 



fine a savory onion and tossing them to- 
gether with oil and vinegar. The next 
day we go shopping and, while my friend 
vainly tries to explain in French that 
she wants brown silk hose, and I search 
the phrase book, the shop-keeper po- 
litely asks, "Can you speak English, 
Madame?" for although French is the 
language of Brussels, almost every one 
can speak English. The gowns, the 
blouses, the hats, the laces are charming 
— and cheap, if one does not pay the 
first price asked. It is not safe to stay 
long in Brussels, if one expects to make 
a tour of Europe. 

Ghent, a city of nearly 200,000, dates 
from the ninth century. Its French 
name is "Gand" or glove, and Charles 
y, who was born here, boasted that he 
could put Paris into his "glove", for in 
the sixteenth century Ghent was one of 
the largest and wealthiest cities of Eu- 
rope. But it suffered under Spanish 
rule. Thousands of its citizens emi- 
grated under the oppression of the Duke 
of Alva; half of the houses stood empty. 
There are churches that were four hun- 
dred years old when Columbus discov- 
ered America. We were almost afraid 
to walk by St. Nicholas lest it should 
fall upon us. In the Church of St. 
Bavon there is the famous painting by 
Jan and Hubert Van Eyck, "The Adora- 
tion of the Lamb", one of the first pic- 
tures painted in oil, wonderful in deli- 
cate and minute detail. The verger, who 
seemed to adore the picture, had us 
stand, now here now there, to get the 
best light on it, to take a glass to see the 
beauty of the daisies in the grass and the 
jewels in the crown. These churches 
and an ancient castle of the Counts of 
Flanders with its dungeons, represent 
the medieval city. The Ghent of today 
is represented by its grain, vegetable and 
poultry markets, for Ghent is a country 
town in the center of the agricultural 
district of Belgium. Here we saw Flem- 
ish farmers in their loose blouses and 
wooden shoes, women, too, in wooden 
shoes, and lace caps — a heavy, stolid- 



IN BELGIUM 



351 



looking people, altogether different from 
the people of Brussels. Ghent is on the 
Scheldt River and has large shipping in- 
terests, especially of plants. Whole car- 
goes of azaleas, camellias, orange-trees, 
palms and other hot-house plants are 
shipped to Holland, Germany, France, 
Russia and America. Ghent is not un- 
fitly called "The City of Flowers." 

In Bruges, the city of bridges, we go 
back to the past. The clocks stopped 
there about the time Columbus discov- 
ered America. The Belfry, sung by 
Longfellow, is five hundred years old, 
the Cathedral, the palace of the Count 
of Flanders, the Hospital of St. John, 
look as if they might crumble to dust at 
a touch. Not only are there a few old 
buildings, everything seems to belong to 
the past — the centuries-tall trees, the 
long grass growing among the stones of 
the streets. Before America was 
dreamed of, Bruges looked much as it 
does now, only that it was young and 
full of life ; for in the thirteenth cen- 
tury Bruges outstripped Venice and 
Genoa. Its seaport was crowded with 
ships. Now there is no sign of a har- 



bor, the sea has receded, and the river is 
choked with sand. When London had 
fewer than 50,000 people, Bruges had 
100,000. Cloth weaving was the prin- 
cipal industry. Splendid guild-houses 
were erected. When Philip I of France 
and his queen visited Bruges, she was so 
much impressed by the splendor of the 
dress of the women that she said, 'T 
thought myself the only queen here, but 
I see hundreds of others around me." 
Feudal masters humiliated the people; 
they were defeated in war, the most in- 
dependent of them emigrated, the splen- 
dor of the city faded and the grass grew 
in the streets. 

Belgium is a land of strange contrasts. 
Twenty minutes' ride from Bruges is 
Ostend, the gayest, the most fashionable, 
most splendid watering-place in Europe 
with its royal villa, its kursaal, its es- 
planade and the most beautifully dressed 
women in Europe — today a landing 
place for British and Russian troops, 
come to help brave little Belgium defend 
her honor. 

Unconsciously, in recalling our visits 
to Belgium, we have drifted into the 




IN BRUGES 



352 AMERICAN COOKERY 

present, hoping that these cities of may be spared to gather the flowers that 
northern Belgium have escaped the de- will bloom in Ghent next summer; that 
struction that has overtaken Liege and Bruges may be allowed to dream on of 
Louvain ; that the grass of Place Verte its past ; and that these brave liberty- 
may not be stained with blood, nor the loving people may soon be allowed to 
holy pictures be torn from the walls of sheathe the swords they have drawn in 
the Cathedral ; that, at least, the women defense of their rights. 



Christmas 

The snow-flakes are drifting o'er mead and 

o'er mountain, 
The sun plunges on through a cloud drift of 

white, 
There's ice in the lakelet and frost on the 

fountain 
And chill are the winds on the prairie tonight. 
But bells gayly ringing all these are defying, 
Let winter enthrall us, we laugh at its sway, 
Hearts beating with pleasure dark thoughts 

are defying, 
Our souls hold the sunshine, "Tis Christmas 

today. 

We're some of us nearing the end of our 

travel, 
W^e're some of us bearing the brunt of the 

strife, 
We've youth that at age and its weakness 

may cavel. 
Our feet are just set in the pathway of life. 
But whether the morn or the even be o'er us, 
And if we be children or long on the way, 
There's hope and there's joy and there's 

promise before us, 
For God's in his Heaven, 'tis Christmas today. 

We've walked with the saints by the side of 

the altar. 
\\'e've prayed in the temple and given our 
share, 
^ We've known what it means to grow careless 

^, and falter. 

*■ • We've tasted of sorrow and doubt and 

despair. 
We're each of us human, saint, pharisee, 
sinner, 
' We're each of us human, whatever we say, 
And we know we are better and somehow a 

winner. 
Because of the fact that 'tis Christmas today. 
L. M. Thornton. 



felt; 



The Calories in Cabbage 



By Mary D. Chambers 

Author of " Principles of Food Preparation 



I 



*M the Sewing teacher " said Miss 
Roberts. "Are you the Cooking 
teacher?" 

Miss Mary Blair flashed a bHghting 
glance at the other girl. "1 am the 
teacher of Household Science," she said 
with suave frostiness. 

It was depressing to be associated 
with a person who regarded Sewing as 
merely sewing, but life would be intol- 
erable if the benighted one should con- 
tinue to think of Cooking as nothing 
more than cooking. Miss Blair resolved 
to fly her flag. 

''I mean," she said, with her chin well 
up, "that I do not teach cooking per se, 
I use it as a means to an end." 

Miss Roberts said nothing, and it was 
hard to tell what she thought — she was 
one of the quiet, plain-Jane, have-noth- 
ing-much-to-say-for-themselves kind of 
bodies. 

The housewifery arts were not yet 
established in the public schools of 
Woodbury, but they were being tenta- 
tively introduced in the Simmons Road 
school, where the criticism of parents — 
should the experiment fail — would not 
have much weight with the Board. 

Miss Blair, college-bred and enthus- 
iastic, seethed with ardor. She would 
show the unenlightened ones that this 
Cinderella of the curriculum was really 
the princess of studies, that it offered, 
as no other subject could, a truly mag- 
nificent, a royal opportunity for correla- 
tion, self-activity, and all the other arts 
and graces of pedagogy. 

Her enthusiasm was infectious. The 
cooking-room was filled the very first 
week, and there was immediately a wait- 
ing list of forty -two. Miss Roberts 
managed to keep her classes full only 
by setting her girls to make cooking 
aprons for hoped-for use in the future. 



To a girl on the waiting list a cooking 
apron was a kind of Ascension robe. It 
was to be lovingly worked on and made 
fine and beautiful in anticipation of the 
great call. Meantime, since the girls in 
possession of the privilege "held fast to 
that which was good", the candidates-in- 
waiting had plenty of time to put on the 
aprons. 

Miss Blair, all this time, was "stimu- 
lating self -activity," and "developing the 
intellectual content" of her subject. 
She spent inspired hours framing prob- 
lems such as : "Describe how a thin 
white sauce may be converted into 
American ice cream" ; or, "Given one- 
quarter of a yeast cake, name the other 
ingredients needed to make a Sally 
Lunn." The words Protein, Fats, and 
Carbohydrates — the shibboleth of the 
initiate — were glib on every tongue. 
Common foods were separated into the 
"nutrients and the non-nutrients," — the 
sheep and the goats of dietetics. Miss 
Blair was having a grand time! Her 
cup ran over so that the saucer was in 
danger of overflow. 

Miss Roberts did a good deal of visit- 
ing in the homes of the children. It was 
not required, but she said she liked to 
know the girls and their families. Miss 
Blair had not time for works of supere- 
rogation — she took a writing pad into 
the park and concocted problems, "de- 
signed to stimulate," etc. 

The two teachers roomed together, 
and when Miss Blair was not exalted to 
the clouds in the process of developing 
the "intellectual content," "disciplinary 
value," and what-not-besides of her 
subject, she would sometimes lend an ear 
to Miss Roberts' trivial discourse. Dur- 
ing such a pliant hour Miss Roberts in- 
sinuated some facts about Lizzie Mc- 
Curdy. 



353 



354 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Lizzie, it appeared, had until recently 
been disqualified for Cook — for the 
study of Household Science, because she 
had not made an apron. But now that 
the apron was made — and Miss Roberts 
had never seen a child so proud of any- 
thing as Lizzie was of that apron — it 
would be a great thing for the little girl, 
if the lure of the housewifery arts might 
prove more potent than the call of the 
streets. It would also be a great help 
to the poor mother who worked out all 
day, if Lizzie could be taught — 

**Is she an intelligent child ?" inquired 
Miss Blair, interrupting these sordid and 
irrelevant details. "For it is doubtful 
whether a girl who enters the class so 
late can grasp — " 

Miss Roberts, who knew what was 
coming, hastily interposed with the as- 
surance that Lizzie was very intelligent, 
quite remarkably so. 

One of the girls in Miss Blair's class 
had sprained her arm, so there was a 
vacancy, as Miss Roberts had learned. 
Hence, on the following Monday, Lizzie 
McCurdy with her sparkling, sallow lit- 
tle face, her sudden little nose, and her 
mouthful of large, merry white teeth, 
was admitted to the study of Household 
Science. 

Potatoes had been chosen that day as 
the humble means to a great educational 
end. The 'Tupil's Aim," according to 
Miss Blair's Lesson Plan, was to make 
Baked and Stufifed Potatoes ; the 
"Teacher's Aim" was to review the Bal- 
anced Ration. To this end, while the 
unconscious potatoes were bursting their 
starch cells in the oven, the class was 
invited to solve the following problem : 

Assuming the weight of an average 
potato to be 120 grams, how much pro- 
tein and how much fat should be com- 
bined with it in order to make a bal- 
anced ration? 

The girls who got the answer right 
were given protein, which seemed to be 
^ new name for chopped ham, and fat, 
which was really good creamery Initter, 
to combine with the potato. The bril- 



liant pupils won both ham and butter; 
the mediocre, only one of the two. 
Lizzie ate her potato with salt — and 
stoicism. 

Miss Blair kept her an hour after class 
for private tutoring, to bring her up 
with the others. Lizzie endured this 
hardship with patience, and then offered 
to tidy up the room for "Teacher." 
Which courtesy "Teacher" vaguely re- 
sented, feeling it to be something of an 
anticlimax. 

Miss Blair was used to having her 
children follow her lead, and inspired by 
her ardor perform mental feats such as 
nobody in Simmons Road had ever 
heard of — much less attempted. But 
with the advent of Lizzie Miss Blair 
found her own problem hard to solve. 
Lizzie steadfastly refused to be beguiled 
into mental effort. She appeared every 
morning with the rest of the class, ar- 
rayed in the admired cooking apron. 
This, a kind of symbolic ornament, used 
to be religiously worn by the pupils all 
through the class instruction, the solving 
of "problems," and the copying of the 
recipe from the blackboard, but was al- 
ways taken off — to keep it clean — as 
soon as the manual work began. Since 
Lizzie was never able to tell how many 
grams of sugar should be added to the 
apple sauce to bring up the calories, or 
how much beaten egg was required to 
balance the carbohydrates in rice pud- 
ding, the joy of the looker-on was her 
only portion — save and except the com- 
pensation of wearing her apron through- 
out the entire lesson without fear of de- 
filing it by marks of honorable toil. 

But Lizzie was the kind of girl who 
could put up a good bluff*. She always 
looked happy, never failed to applaud 
the doubtful successes of her comrades, 
and pronounced everything she tasted to 
be "scrumptious." 

Hypercritical observers might say of 
Miss Blair's methods that the result of 
her devotion to intellectual activity was 
not alwavs successful from the mundane 
point of view of i)lain cookery. But 



THE CALORIES IN CABBAGE 



355 



Miss Blair had a fine scorn of the merely 
practical. She was heart and soul after 
the brain processes. So Lizzie was de- 
tained, day after day, in that vain effort 
to "bring her up with the class", which 
the incorrigible one blandly resisted. 

"The calories in a pound o' cabbage! 
Land, Miss Blair, I couldn't ever do no 
stunt like that." This with a flash of 
her good-humored teeth. 

Then, "Did you know cabbage is 
down, 'm? Yes'm, 'tis cheap now, ten 
cents a head at Meyerse's groc'ry, re- 
dooced frum fifteen. Say, Miss Blair, 
did you know they're havin' bargin sales 
at the groc'ry stores now, same as bar- 
gin sales of underwear?" 

This was plainly a diversion. Miss 
Blair looked reproachful, but she would 
not be thus lightly swerved from her 
purpose. 

"Now, Lizzie, let us work this out to- 
gether, and then I'll give you a very easy 
one to do by yourself." 

Lizzie wriggled. "My ma, she'll be 
wantin' me. I had otta go home, ma'am. 
Honest, ma'am, my ma she'll be most 
back f'um Stokeses Buildin' an' the fire 
is out. Lemme go 'm, please 'm. I gotta 
go, honest." 

Thus was Miss Blair always defeated. 

After long patience Lizzie was brought 
to recognize what she persistently called 
the "kerbohydrants." Since the word 
got on Miss Blair's nerves — she said it 
implied vicious association — her victory, 
even in this small matter, was doubtful. 

But hope springs eternal in the human 
breast. Her teacher still expected and 
desired the miracle of a problem solved 
by Lizzie. School would close next week. 
The Household Science girls had been 
promised the}^ should make whatever 
they liked for the last lesson. Chocolate 
layer-cake was unanimously chosen. The 
choice was granted, but with a string 
attached. It should be a reward of 
merit. 

"Girls," said Miss Blair, "everyone 
who can answer the problem I shall give 
tomorrow may make a small, individual. 



chocolate layer-cake on Friday." 

Murmurs of ecstatic anticipation. 

Lizzie had recently in some subtle 
fashion managed to convert the period 
of detention after class into an oppor- 
tunity to play assistant-in-ordinary to the 
teacher. She put away left-overs, 
scrubbed oft" the blackboard, and made 
gratuitous comment on current events. 

Today, "Say, Miss Blair, why don't 
you let us make somethin' of canned to- 
matoes? They're three cans for a quar- 
ter down to Meyerses." 

Usually Miss Blair allowed Lizzie's 
tongue to run unheeded, while she busied 
herself with the intellectual content of 
her subject. But today she had troubles 
pf a different kind. Woefully little 
money remained from her allowance for 
food supplies, and the estimate for choc- 
olate layer-cake was alarming. Three 
cans of tomatoes for twenty-five cents 
seemed a special Providence. But what 
could she combine with the tomatoes to 
make a "balanced ration?" She thought 
of cheese, but alas, the cost was prohib- 
itive ! Cabbage, at ten cents a head, 
would go farthest for the money. But 
they had already had a lesson on cab- 
bage ! No matter, she could make a 
delicious combination of the two vege- 
tables, sprinkle a small amount of cheese 
on the top for a relish, and — best of all 
— frame a review problem for Lizzie's 
special benefit, on the calorific value of 
cabbage. 

In the relief from financial strain, she 
evolved a very masterpiece of problems. 
It ran : 

A girl whose weight is eighty pounds 
needs six calories of energy to mount the 
stairs to the Household Science room. 
How many times could she mount them 
on the energy derived from twenty-four 
grams of cabbage? 

"Lizzie, I want you to try this prob- 
lem in advance. Let us read it together 
and see whether you understand it." 

"Lordy, Miss Blair, I kin go up an' 
down them stairs 'thout eatin' no cab- 
bage." 



356 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



**You couldn't do it without energy, 
Lizzie, and you have to get your energy 
from your food." 

Lizzie, the guileful, as usual essayed 
entertaining digression. 

"Say, Miss Blair, Agnes Amelia 
Brown, she near fell downstairs 
yeste'day, an' she got the sleeve of her 
blue waist all tore. 'Twas her sister's 
waist that she got at the second-hand 
ladies' clothes parlor — " 

"But Lizzie," with severity, "this is 
not the time to discuss waists — " 

"No'm, sure tisn't, 'm. But say. Miss 
Blair, what d'you think 'm?" Lizzie was 
desperately seeking outlet from the pres- 
ent stress — "Lemme tell you, 'm, I 
found Maggie Joneses note-book that she 
lost, an' what d'you think? She had her 
name writ up in it, 'Margareet Looize 
Jones.' Wouldn't that faze you? I 
guess every girl here 'cep you'n me, has 
a middle name, ma'am. Have you any 
middle name. Miss Blair?" 

"Perhaps LU tell you, Lizzie, if you 
tell me how many — " 

But Lizzie was voluble. "I guess I 
know you haven't no middle name. Miss 
Blair! I never see no name but 'Mary' 
writ up in your books. 'Mary' is a nice 
name. Miss Blair, just be itself, a nice 
quick name. An' now'm I gotta go quick 
too 'm." 

And she squirmed off without further 
ceremony, the white teeth flashing a 
mocking smile from the door. 

Miss Blair got hot and red. She felt 
inexperienced. And Lizzie had been 
nothing short of flippantly impertinent. 

Next day every girl except Rozanne 
Mildred Brown got the problem right, 
and Rozanne got it half-way. Lizzie did 
not even attempt it. Rozanne was al- 
lowed to make tomato sauce. Lizzie was 
not even permitted to wipe off the black- 
board. Miss Blair was deaf to her good- 
bye. 

But the unquenchable one was on hand 
next morning before anybody else. She 
was divested of symbolic ornament, was 
brown-ginghamed, patched, and shabby- 



looking — but her sallow little face was 
glorified, every separate tooth laughed 
for joy, she was brimful of great news. 

Artistically she led up to it. 

"I sole me apurn, ma'am, to Mrs. Ken- 
nedy for her Katy. Soon's I got home 
yeste'day I washed it out — I med it as 
white as the drivellin' snow — you know 
I never got no spots on it — an' Mrs. 
Kennedy, she gimme what I ast for it, 
twenty-five cents." 

Miss Blair had meant to show coldness 
to Lizzie on account of her atrocious be- 
havior, but such joy as she radiated could 
not be resisted. Her eyes begged a ques- 
tion. 

"What did you do with the twenty- 
five cents, Lizzie?" 

"I'll give you three guesses, Miss 
Blair. But I'm sure you couldn't ever 
think, Miss Blair. I guess I'll tell you 
'm. Well ma'am, I bought wan head o' 
cabbage — an' wan can o' tomatoes — an' 
five cents wuth o' cheese. An', an' I 
med — you can guess now, can't you. Miss 
Blair?" 

She was swinging up and down on a 
chair rung, in rhythmic transport. 

"You made cabbage au gratin." 

"Yes 'm, I med cabbage o gratting. 
Lemme tell you, Miss Blair. Ma she had 
a big job down to Newmann's. 'Twas 
her awful hard day, an' I knew she'd 
come home all wore out. An' she do 
love cabbage, an' she do sure love toma- 
toes, an' I never see no one but you to 
put the two of 'em together, an' so I med 
cabbage o' gratting to 'sprise her." 

"And were you able to make it?" 

"Yes 'm. I watched the girls yes- 
te'day, 'm. I had it all planned. I can 
make lots o' the things they learned — 
but that cabbuge was the grandest ever!" 

Her face was shining. 

"When ma kem home she hadn't a leg 
to stand on, hardly 'm, an' she said that 
all the ways down the hall she could 
smell the grandest smell — 'twis sure like 
a banquit — an' she couldn't b'lieve her 
senses that 'twas comin' from our rooms. 

"I told her about me apurn, an' she 



THE CALORIES IN CABBAGE 



357 



began to cry 'm." 

Lizzie's own voice was husky, and 
bright drops stood in the bright eyes, but 
she was smiling in beatitude. 

*'She bragged on me to all the neigh- 
bors. She sent me round wit saucers o' 
the cabbage to every fam'ly in the tene- 
ment. She did say," and the white teeth 
were mirthful, "that she wisht she could 
purr an' wag her tail, she was that 
pleased." 

The other girls began to file in, white- 
aproned and expectant. Lizzie looked 
down at her shrunken brown gingham 
frock. 

'T don't want no apurn," she asserted 
valiantly. " 'Tis the last day today — and 
anyway I'm growin', 'twould be too small 
for me next year." 

Miss Blair went around the class, 
directing operations, but her thoughts 
kept picturing that scene in the tenement. 
How vividly she could imagine it all, the 
poor room, the tired woman, the savory 
smell of the food, the ''surprise" planned 
in sacrifice and love — the pride of the 
mother in the child — 

And she had been shutting this child 
out from opportunity — 

Happy faces were bent over the sauce- 
pans. The odor of the chocolate filling 
rose like sweet incense to Heaven. Some 
of the children were rapturously tasting 
it. 

"Lordy, I wisht — " began Lizzie with 
a longing look. But she checked herself 
quickly. ''My cabbage," she said, 
"smelled all down the hall, an' it riz up 
to the third floor, an' Mrs. INIulcahy she 
said it scented up her kitchen until her 
mouth watered." 

The chocolate icing was in progress. 



thick, brown, luscious. Lizzie was a little 
pale, the happy teeth not so much in evi- 
dence, but she clung to the last vestige 
of her joy. 

"Ma, she bragged on me to Mrs. Houl- 
ihan — that's the lady acrost the hall — an' 
Mrs. Houlihan, she said she guessed the 
smell was enough for her, an' that 
enough was as good as a feast. But ma, 
she said the smell was nothing to the 
taste." 

Rozanne Mildred Brown came up with 
something brown and odorous and de- 
lectable on a plate. 

"No, Rozanne, I don't want none o' 
your choc'Iate layer-cake. I et the last 
o' me cabbage o gratting this morning. 
Say, Miss Blair, I learned lots in this 
class — not problums, o' course, I couldn't 
ever do them — but I guess I could make 
sev'ral o' the things. I'm goin' to try. 
Ma, she says I have a reel turn for 
cookin'. I'll sure have a grand supper 
for her every night now, against she 
comes home." 

School was over. Miss Blair was in 
her class-room, putting away her Lesson 
Plans. She ought to have been happy, 
for she had just seen the Superintendent, 
who told her she had been appointed in- 
structor in Household Science at the 
William Winship High School, in the 
best residential district of the city. 

"They want someone there," he had 
said, "who can develop the theoretical 
side of the subject, who can show that 
it has not only a practical but a dis- 
ciplinary value in education." 

"Serve me right," thought Miss Blair. 
" Theoretical side,' 'disciplinary value.' 
Why didn't he say I wasn't good for any- 
thing else?" 




,r^' 



i^^f^'k^ 



w 



omans 



PI 



ace 



Bv Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



SO often I am asked my candid 
opinion of Women's Clubs. If 
the harmonious progress which 
mey purport to symbolize is not a flimsy 
cloak for much social intrigue, and if 
the ideals of clubdom, like the heart of 
the rose, do not often harbor something 
as damaging to the domestic circle as 
the proverbial canker worm? 

My answer is, that, unqualifiedly, I 
believe in the mission of the Women's 
Club, and that the woman who fails to 
interpret its individual message to her 
is in some way misplaced. Like the 
misguided man in church, she may be 
in the right building but the wrong pew. 
We talk much of that prodigious un- 
dertaking, the opening of the Panama 
Canal, the direct connecting link in the 
commerce of two hemispheres ; but, in 
a way, has not that forward movement, 
known as Women's Clubs, cleft a simi- 
lar barrier? Has it not opened a chan- 
nel of long-suppressed feminine energy, 
to bear the salutary imprint of woman's 
ideals to a man's world? 

For so long a time woman had 
drummed into her that the term "wife" 
meant weaver, — a mistress of the do- 
mestic realm, who, in a sheltered way, 
had something to do with w^eaving a 
man's fortune. Now, thanks to an eye- 
opening attack of clubitis, she has roused 
to the full significance of her position 
and is lending a helping hand to inter- 
ests of national import. 

Scarcely a day passes but that we 
read of her ladyship's success in hand- 
ling municipal problems. Especially has 
her aid proven timely in the larger civic 
house-cleaning. Look at that pioneer in 
this field, Mrs. Caroline Bartlett Crane. 
Several more than half a hundred cities 
have invited Mrs. Crane to make them 
what she terms, "a sanitary survey," pay- 
ing her one hundred dollars a day for 



her services ; and, moreover, they con- 
sider "the servant worthy of her hire." 
And it is now common history that it 
was left for the ingenuity of a woman, 
Mrs. Francis Kinnicutt, wife of a New 
York physician, to invent the indispen- 
sable little hand-cart for removing street 
sweepings that aided so materially in 
maintaining cleaner streets in the me- 
tropolis. Nor did she rest here. She 
went up to Albany, with other important 
suggestions for street cleaning, and per- 
suaded the legislature to incorporate 
them in a law. So, when we read of 
the wonderful New York system, men- 
tally, at least, we may give credit where 
credit is due. 

Then right here in Boston, how did 
it come about that we have no more 
inland dumping? Here, again, like 
Cock-Robin, woman may answer, "I did 
it." For it was through the instru- 
mentality of the Women's Municipal 
League that the City Council agreed to 
prohibit it. 

Not only in matters of sanitation and 
hygiene have the towns and cities wel- 
comed a woman's insight; the world 
is. at last, placing the mothering instinct 
at its true valuation. Slowly, but surely, 
the light of maternalism is extending 
from the home into less fortunate by- 
ways, to brighten and perfect all man- 
made corrective measures. 

In a recent copy of the Yale Review, 
Professor Vida D. Scudder of Wellesley 
says: "Paternalism has become an ob- 
noxious epithet ; it carries with it, from 
patriarchal days, an unpleasant hint of 
autocracv. Alaternalism is better. The 
word stands for an authority more ten- 
der, a discipline more intimate, foster- 
ing care more huni])le. To carry out 
this great idea the Mother-State of 
which we dream will need the hel]) of 
its women." 



358 



WOMAN'S PLACE 



359 



Unquestionably, the feminine factor 
in the State has come to stay. Already, 
maternalism, with its deft adjustments, 
has wrought magic with some of our 
most baffling conditions. What man 
could secure the results that America's 
only woman judge, Miss Mary Bartelme 
of Chicago's Court for Delinquent Girls, 
has? What man might equal the 
motherly authority of Dr. Katherine 
Bement Davis that makes her so in- 
valuable as New York's Commissioner 
of Corrections? She it was, you re- 
member, who recently quelled the mutiny 
of 1400 men at Blackwell's Island by 
maternal methods. It is this selfsame 
spirit of motherhood, speaking through 
Frances Keller, that founded the North 
American Civic League for Immigrants. 
This same enfolding maternalism, reach- 
ing out in race-saving, that has made 
the work of Jane Addams monumental, 
and keeps Miss Lathrop of the Chil- 
dren's Bureau at Washington a unique 
and praiseworthy figure of modern 
progress. 

And now comes the glad news that 
women have found their way into 
America's Academy of Immortals. New 
York University has announced that by 
Decoration Day, 19LS, a building in the 
form of a Greek temple will stand on 
its campus as a memorial to famous 
American women. 

Such are a few of the tell-tale straws 
which show how the wind ot progress 
is blowing. And in moving toward the 
Mother-State, do not let us forget that 
we owe much of our advancement to the 
solidarity and unity of purpose of the 
Women's Club, the medium that has 
helped to bring us from public indififer- 
ence to present-day prominence. It gave 
women an unmolested field in which to 
try out Burbanking social conditions by 
feminine methods, and the result has 
been the betterment of many laws. 
Every state federation now has its legis- 
lative committee, whose duty it is to 
assist in getting good laws before and 
through the legislature. The enlight- 



ened home-maker has learned to look 
out as well as in for the making of 
domestic success ; hence, her persistent 
demands for good school laws, pure 
food, housing reforms and sanitation, 
regulation or abolition of child labor, 
decent conditions in factories where 
women are employed, laws relating to 
the social evil and white slavery, fire 
protection, clean streets, etc., in short, 
she has become interested in all matters 
which, directly or indirectly, touch the 
welfare of the home. . 

Perhaps our real indebtedness to club- 
women could be summed up most effec- 
tively, as one of our much-quoted 
writers puts it: "The woman's club has 
set women to work in their own attics. 
They have at last discovered lots of 
valuable old furniture there, and are 
now using it." For no observant mor- 
tal can deny that such affiliation has 
given the biggest impetus to to-day's 
feminist movement, brought much latent 
talent into the limelight, and afforded 
unparalleled educative opportunities to 
ambitious women. 

Yet, to my mind, the brunt of the 
work of these clubs should be done by 
the four types of women most emi- 
nently fitted for the position. First and 
foremost is the middle-aged woman who 
has reared her family, and whose ripened 
judgment seeks new avenues of expres- 
sion. This is the woman who is active, 
mentally and physically, and to whom 
enforced idleness is slow torture. In- 
variably she makes a pilot in civic im- 
provements that is hard to equal. Her 
best allies will be found to be the child- 
less woman, the spinster, and the lonely 
w^idow, all of whom can, and do find, 
rejuvenation in helpful industry. 

Seldom does the Woman's Club re- 
ceive full meed of praise for its youth- 
ful propensities. As a tonic for ennui 
and a panacea for disappointment its 
benefit should not be too lightly esti- 
mated. Any movement which, by plac- 
ing worth-while work in a woman's 
hands, can write enthusiasm on a coun- 



360 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tenance that formerly spelled bore- 
dom, is worth investigating. And, by 
the way, what has become of our melan- 
choly sisters, the sniveling, hopelessly 
forlorn-looking women who used to 
grouch around, nursing some secret dis- 
appointment ? Surely, they are conspicu- 
ous by their absence. With the birth of 
broadening feminine interests, moping 
seems to have gone out of fashion. All 
the old-time Niobes, who formerly ran 
a perpetual wet-wash with their hand- 
kerchiefs, have dried them. And why? 
They are using them to keep their specs 
bright, while they sit up and take notice 
at Jaytown's Civic Club or Bingville's 
Housewives' League. 

And how about that flower of femi- 
ninity, the purely domestic woman, who 
is busy catering to young America? 
Shall she continue to Cinderella away 
all her days, or shall the fairy god- 
mother of the future bear her away, 
occasionally, for a peep into club-life, 
which she needs for social reasons, for 
recreation, to enlarge her mental hori- 
zon, and most of all to keep her from 
becoming warped in her views? Surely 
the club needs her, too, for both sanc- 
tion and support. 

In the Church that I attended when 
a girl there was a section dignified as 
the "Amen Corner." Here the deacons 
were wont to gather, and whenever the 
minister tore off anything with a sem- 
blance of **punch" to it, he was always 
backed up by sonorous "Amens" from 
this quarter. 

In every club for women there is, or 
should be, a corresponding position for 
the home-abiding woman, the woman 
whose present, large, home cares only 
warrant her in giving her hearty ap- 
proval to the honest efforts of others. 
And for the success of her particular 



club let us hope that she will not for- 
get her duty in this respect. 

Now what of the damage done by 
Women's Clubs? So far, the only wo- 
men I have seen injured were the 
women who had lost their sense of per- 
spective, due, perhaps, to personal ag- 
grandizement, or what Oliver Wendell 
Holmes so aptly termed a little "men- 
tal squinting." Such women are often 
led to believe that a club belongs to 
them, instead of their belonging to a 
club ; and, again, such distorted vision is 
often responsible for entirely losing 
sight of true valuations. 

Not long ago a woman, very active 
in clubdom, came to me with a sym- 
pathy-stirring tale of the complete 
wreckage of her marital happiness. 
Somehow, as I listened, memories fresh- 
ened in my mind of her innumerable 
absences from home in the interests of 
various clubs, mornings -and afternoons 
given to class work and board meetings, 
whole days and even weeks, when she 
was a delegate to far-away conventions. 
I couldn't but wonder if all this heart- 
ache might not have been avoided, if 
the recorder had been contented with 
membership in just one club and to sit 
in the "Amen corner." I know one con- 
tented woman who sits there. At pres- 
ent her dub activities are written in 
minus quantities, but down on Cottage 
street she is fashioning a heritage for 
the gods, — a pleasant and peaceful 
dwelling place, which one good Amer- 
ican citizen and some embr}'0 ones lov- 
ingly refer to as "home." 

All of which goes to prove that wo- 
man, like water, still seeks her own 
level, rising, whenever opportunity af- 
fords, to that height of aspiration urged 
by the mysterious influence of her own 
heart. 




Cookery and the Masculine Mind 



By Ladd Plumley 



THERE are five boys and one 
little girl in the family. The 
father is a teacher and they live 
out in Westchester County, in an old- 
fashioned house that was built in Revo- 
lutionary days. The small rent for the 
old house was the initial attraction, but 
now the merry household would not ex- 
change even the big fireplace of the liv- 
ing room for the most modern arrange- 
ment of steam heat. It was my good 
luck to be invited out there to dinner. 

"The 'teenth maid objected to the 
pump — it's outside — the best water ever. 
She hit the trail of the others. But 
there'll be something scrambled up," ex- 
plained the teacher. 

There certainly was something scram- 
bled up and to spare. For one thing, 
creamed mushrooms of the freshest at 
my New York club are not obtainable. 
Even the dark metropolitan mushroom is 
a viand that is rather beyond my pocket- 
book. 

The entire dinner was said not to have 
cost very much — in dollars and cents. It 
must have cost a good deal in the way of 
care in preparation, although I was as- 
sured that the family had studied the 
wondrous art of. cookery and that 
"knowing just how," as little Everett put 
it, "makes it a dead cinch." 

My palate was amazed with various 
delights that are worthy and much more 
than worthy of record. We had a large 
platter of ox-tail ragout with mashed 
rutabaga turnips and boiled carrots as a 
sort of provoker for another generous 
helping. The creamed mushrooms were 
served with the ox-tail, but on separate 
dishes. I discover that my typewriter is 
a miserably inefficient device. It is not 
equal to telling about those mushrooms. 
Imagine ambrosia stewed in nectar and 
served on triangles of amber-browned 
toast. Let it go at that. The salad that 



followed was a combination of the heart 
of lettuce — as the lower strata, cucum- 
ber, thin-sliced sour apples, and three 
little pyramids of grape fruit as a kind 
of yellow ornamentation. 

The faces of the boys, and of the little 
girl at my side, grew merrily luminous 
as Ed. and Will, the middle-sized of the 
working dinner crew, removed the empty 
salad plates and brushed ofT the table. 

"What's comin' is awful nice," con- 
fided the little maid. "Sam made 'em. 
Of course Mother helped with the sauce, 
but Sam, — well, we folks think just ev- 
erything of Sam's cooking." 

I glanced across the table toward Sam. 
His face was almost the color of his 
bright red necktie. 

"Cut it out, Margy !" he remarked. 
"What's a feller good for if he can't do 
simple cooking?" 

Perhaps Sam called it simple cooking 
— the making of the crispest and most 
mouth-meltable, baked apple dumplings 
that were ever eaten. The dumplings 
brought so many compliments from all 
that Sam's face became even rosier, if 
that were a possibility. There are many 
chefs who would envy that kind of sim- 
plicity in cooking. 

The dinner ended with browned crack- 
ers, cream cheese, and black coffee. 

"Don't say anything about the cofTee," 
whispered my small neighbor. "You see. 
Bub's a boy scout, and he's starting on 
coffee. He makes it in a tin pot, just as 
he does in the woods — Father taught 
him." 

What I did say about the coffee was to 
state what was the truth ; that it was 
good, very good. 

As my host and I sat before the great 
fireplace — it was late September and the 
night was too chilly for the porch — I 
asked about the excellent dinner. 

"It's hard to get help for what I can 



361 



362 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



afford to pay," explained the teacher. 
"As the babies came along and Marga- 
ret's time was given up to them, I taught 
Sam — the eldest, you know — to cook. 
Then, as the other boys got larger he 
taught them. I'm a fair cook; learned it 
in camp. I used to spend my summers 
in the. w^oods. So my instruction to Sam 
was the real thing. And we have three 
boys who are more efficient in simple 
home dishes than many professional 
cooks. Of course, except w^hen we have 
a guest or in emergencies, Margaret 
doesn't depend on them to the extent of 
interfering much with their studies or 
sports. But there's one thing certain : 
The girl who is fortunate enough to get 
Sam for a husband will be decidedly 
lucky. And you can say almost as much 
for the other boys. They're out in the 
kitchen. The dishes will be washed and 
wiped in a jiffy. And what I cannot un- 
derstand is why it is not considered al- 
most as important to teach boys the art 
of cookery as it is to teach it to girls. 
There are emergencies, and in most 
households they come very frequently, 
when, if the husband could broil chops 
and boil potatoes, it would ease up things 
amazingly. My own boys look upon 
cookery as an interesting craft that must 
be studied and practiced in precisely the 
same way as base-ball and tennis." 

"But how about the msuhrooms?'' I 
asked. "Mushrooms like those wonders 
couldn't be obtained in anv Xew York 
hotel." 

The teacher laughed. "They cost us 
nothing," he said. "We've had a rainy 
September. Every day you can see 
scores of Italians hunting the meadows 
for mushrooms. The boys know the 
agarics as they know tlieir multiplication 
tables. We don't try experiments ; we 
limit ourselves to the ar/arics. And this 
morning the fellows picked very nearly a 
couple of pecks, and they didn't go a 
quarter-mile from the house." 

Sam's remark at little Margaret's com- 
pliment. "\Miat's a fellow good for if he 
can't do sinii)le cooking?" is almost 



worthy to be carved in stone and placed 
over the entrance of refectories and com- 
mons of every school and college in the 
country. The amazing wonder is that 
boys' schools and men's colleges do not 
have classes in cooker}-. At this time in 
the history of household economics, 
when many things connected with eat- 
ables are receiving the closest attention 
of the masculine mind, surely it would 
be in keeping to know w'ith scientific ac- 
curacy how to roast a leg of mutton and 
how to make and bake a good loaf of 
bread. \\'hen all the world is talking 
about the Eift'el-tower high cost of living, 
it would seem that it was about time for 
men and boys to find out, and by their 
own experiments, the relative value of 
different methods for cooking standard 
foods. A laborator}' course in plain 
home cookery would be a popular course 
in any school or college. Let us hope 
that before very long one of our large 
boys' preparatory schools will require 
that a couple of hours a week should be 
devoted to the craft. Is it too much to 
hope that one of our great universities 
will deem such a course as not unworthy 
to be duly set forth in its programme of 
studies ? 

Until that time comes, mothers should 
instruct the growing boys of the house- 
hold how to-make coffee and do the other 
simple things that in the future will en- 
able them to meet with philosophy the 
emergency of a sick wife and a vanished 
maid. Indeed, a girl would hardly be un- 
reasonable if, before she accepted the 
ring of a young man, she should require 
him to prove that he is equal to such an 
emergency. 

There is another aspect to this matter. 
Xot infrequently the modern worker 
takes his vacations in the woods, far 
from womankind. Those of us who 
have depended upon the unassisted cook- 
ery of an Indian or a Canadian guide 
know full well that, did we possess even 
the rudiments of the art of cookery, we 
could give such hints and instruction as 
would make the outing far more enjoy- 



COOKING AND Till- MASCLLIXE MIXD 



363 



able and healthful. To urge upon a city 
palate a slab of half-raw salt pork and 
some chunks of soggy, sour bread is 
hardly the trail to renewed health and 
vigor. In the woods a man needs the 
simplest of food ; that is not saying but 
that its preparation should have most 
careful attention. Coffee, if left to the 
carelessness of the average guide, is a 
thing of thickness and rankness that the 
camper drinks only because he knows as 
little about making the clear and brown 
juice of the stimulating bean as he does 
about boiling potatoes to the bursting 
open of their skins. 

Most masculine palates are rather sen- 
sitive. Men like good food. And if the 
usual man knew that the preparation of 
simple food was an exceedingly interest- 
ing study and not beyond the capacity of 
any one, he would make haste to join the 
nearest cooking school or seek the in- 
struction of his sister, mother, aunt, or 
wife. To cook simple dishes so that they 
are appetizing and healthful is no mean 
art. It is worthy the attention of ever}'- 
body. Because he is a shaving and 
trousered individual is no reason why a 
human being should be absolutely igno- 
rant of the craft. Sometime he may find 
himself where a little knowledge, even a 
very little knowledge, will add immeas- 
urably to his own comfort and to the 
comfort of others. Man can not live 
without food. To be ignorant of the 
preparation of what he can not live with- 
out should be, at least for those who 
count themselves educated, considered a 
disgrace. That he should go through his 
life with not a thought of how many 
hours it takes to boil corned beef to the 
tender point is an evasion of responsi- 



bility. Many men even take an absurd 
pride in knowing absolutely nothing of 
the food that is set before them. They 
are altogether equal to the negative art 
of criticism, but as to any idea of what 
basis there is for their criticism, they are 
as ignorant as the Indian who beheld a 
great painter busy with his maul stick 
and brush. Said the Indian, 

"Um, um ! Him all wrong. Take um 
and tear um up I"' 

In regard to his wife's cooker\- the or- 
dinary husband is over-mighty in de- 
structive advice and weak to nothingness 
in any helpful suggestion. That he in 
his fatuous ignorance should actually re- 
gard himself as a capable critic is the 
w^onder of wonders. He knows that the 
pudding does not taste as he thinks it 
should ; the females of his family have 
coddled his palate to that juncture, but 
what is the matter, or whether the matter 
is not with his own palate, he is as igno- 
rant as the Indian before the sketch that 
was destined to be the painter's master- 
piece. 

Cookery is a noble art. Good cooking 
will add years to any man's life. It is 
worthy the serious attention of the mas- 
culine mind. This being so, there is no 
boy in the land whose education would 
not be more complete, if he had instruc- 
tion in simple home cooking. As to 
men? Doubtless many of them regard 
cookery as altogether beyond their pow- 
ers. It is not. There are few of us who, 
if we gave it the attention it deserves, 
could not master, and wdth great ease, 
the rudiments of an art that is one of the 
oldest arts of the w^orld. as it is certainly 
one of the inost important, also the mo^^t 
fundamental. 



Inference 

Le X^erricr. knowing the celestial law, 
Could certify the orb he never saw: 
I know God love ; and. pitying human strife 
With Time and Death, foresee immortal life 
Stokely S. Fisher. 



Censoring the Christmas Dinner 



By Stella Burke May 



A STATE of war existed in the 
hitherto peaceful household of 
the American John Smith, for 
Mrs. John Smith, generalissimo of the 
kitchen, had declared war on foreign 
food products. 

Among the causes which led to this 
declaration were, first; that the Smith 
household was being constantly menaced 
by the air fleet of Imported Products, 
which had dropped a High-Cost-Of- 
Living bomb on its commissary depart- 
ment, and, second; that foreign invasion, 
during the past tw^elve months, had well- 
nigh wrecked the John Smith treasury. 

In proof of this latter accusation. 
Mrs. Smith produced her Christmas 
menu from the previous year, w^hich 
showed the foreign element in strong 
supremacy. 

Feeling the need of support from a 
strong ally, she called her husband from 
his evening newspaper, and show^ed him 
the line-up of his last year's Yuletide 
dinner. 

"Shades of the Father of His Coun- 
tr}'," exclaimed John, as he glanced over 
the card. *'No w^onder they had war in 
Europe!" 

This is w^hat he read : 

Christmas Dinner, 1913. 

Anchovy Canapes 

Mushroom Consomme 

Salted Wafers Celery Spanish Olives 

Broiled Smelts Maitre d'hotel butter 

Roast Turkey 

Plain Dressing 

Duchesse Potatoes 
Buttered Brussels Sprouts 
French Peas 

Creamed Onions 

Cranberry Frappe 
Chinese Celery Prune. Apple-and-Nut Salad 
Xeufchatel Cheese 
English Plum Pudding Hard Sauce 
Mandarin Oranges 

English Walnuts 

Malaga Grapes 
Cafe Demi-Tasse 
So. even as the European press censor, 
pencil in hand, goes over his war dis- 

364 



patches, deleting a word here, a phrase 
there, lest his ow^n particular country ap- 
pear at a disadvantage or the enemy 
profit by the context, did Mrs. John 
Smith go over her Christmas bill of fare, 
ehding ever}- foreign combination and 
condiment, and, steering clear of the 
high C's of yester-year, such as "canapes, 
consommes and cafes," this American 
censor effaced all evidence of foreign 
domination, and launched her transport 
upon neutral waters from cocktail to 
coffee. 

\\'ith patriotism coupled with ingenu- 
ity, she set herself to the task of prepar- 
ing a dinner that might stand uncovered 
as the flag goes by. 

"I will avoid even the appearance of 
partizanship." she told herself, "and not 
even call this a menu. It shall be a bill- 
of-fare this year." 

''And there must be no foreign flavor, 
no paprika, no French or Italian olive 
oil in the salad, no imported wines or 
brandies." 

They both agreed that a canape was 
decidedly contraband, and, while it might 
serve if disguised under the title of "ap- 
petizer," felt that Baltimore oysters 
serv^ed on their native shell, with Iowa 
horseradish, Oklahoma catsup, and thin 
slices of California lemon would be in 
strict neutrality. 

The consomme must become a soup ; 
not even a bouillon, but a plain vegetable 
soup, and asparagus seemed to meet all 
the maritime laws. 

If the market afforded fresh radishes, 
they would be added to the soup course, 
but in no event would Spanish olives 
pass muster. In fact all "hors- 
d'oeuvres" were now "hors de combat." 

The fish course was abandoned as an 
extravagance, since oysters were to open 
the meal, so the maitre d'hotel butter 
was thus disposed of. 



CENSORING THE CHRISTMAS DINNER 



365 



*'How would it be to buy the turkey 
on the 'hoof this year?" queried her 
husband. 'T will kill and dry-pick it and 
you can hang it in the refrigerator for a 
couple of days before Christmas." 

''Turkey! Turkey!" exclaimed his 
wife in supreme astonishment. "Why, 
John Smith, we're not going to have a 
fowl with a foreign name like that. 
We're to have roast goose, with chestnut 
stuffing." 

For the main course, then, it would be 
roast goose, with chestnut stuffing and 
potatoes. 

"Remember," cautioned John, "there 
will be no vegetable with a foreign name 
like Irish potatoes." So avoiding the 
belligerent waters in which sailed 'po- 
tatoes a la Hollandaise,' French fried, 
German fried, au gratin, O'Brien, Hon- 
groise" she landed at sweet potatoes, 
Southern style, and added this to her 
card. 

Brussels sprouts came under the same 
indictment. "I always have thought 
Brussels sprouts are just sort of 'babes- 
in-the-wood' cabbages that lost their 
way, so I think we will just have 
creamed cabbage and be done with it." 

"Onions ought to pass without an in- 
vestigation," John said, as he w^atched 
her writing "baked onions," "but be sure 
they're not Bermudas and have no for- 
eign flavor." 

Next, cranberry frappe was shorn of 
its alien looks and appeared in homespun 
as "cranberry jelly moulded," and the 
understanding was that they were to be 
Wisconsin grown. 

Small light rolls made with Minneapo- 
lis flour would be served with the meat 
course. 

The salad course was quickly disposed 
of. Following the dinner of the previ- 
ous year, she chose a salad of apples, 
celery-and-walnuts in heart lettuce cups. 
She would insist on New York Jonathan 
apples, Michigan celery, Illinois walnuts 
and Florida lettuce, served with a cream 
dressing. In place of the Neufchatel 
cheese, she would serve cottage cheese 



spread between thin slices of brown 
bread, along with the salad. The "yel- 
low peril" celery was, of course, taboo. 

"I don't see why they always have 
English plum pudding, when New Eng- 
land minced pie contains all the 'stuff 
that dreams are made of,' " said John, 
and, his Commissary General agreeing 
with him, resolved to have New England 
minced pie with frozen pudding. 

For nuts she selected Georgia paper- 
shell pecans. These, with Florida tan- 
gerine oranges and California raisins 
would seem sufficiently "censored." 

And, lastly, of course, coflee in half 
cups, with Louisiana cut-loaf sugar and 
home-grown cream. She realized she 
must call upon her neighbors in South 
America for the cofifee, but they both 
agreed that Brazil coffee in a Connecti- 
cut percolator should pass the most cap- 
tious critic. 

Assembling her national dinner, this 
was what she produced : 

Christmas Dinner, 1914. 

American Plan. 

Baltimore Oysters on Half Shell 

Served with horseradish, catsup and thin 

sliced lemon 

Asparagus Soup 

Salted Wafers Fresh Radishes 

Roast Goose 

Chestnut Stuffing 

Alabama Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 

Baked Onions Creamed Cabbage 

Cranberry Jellv in Moulds 

Small Light Rolls 

Apple-Celery-Walnut Salad in Heart Lettuce 

Cups 

Brown Bread-and-Cottage Cheese Sandwiches 

New England Minced Pie 

Frozen Pudding 

Florida Tangerines 

Georgia Paper Shelled Pecans 

California Raisins 
Half Cups of Coffee 
Louisiana Sugar Cream 

So, stripped of her foreign garments, 
and clothed in a brand new gown with a 
fine domestic finish, we behold the 
American Christmas dinner for the 
Americans at home, and while we greet 
our guests, the American John Smith 
will insert a new needle and start "The 
Star Spangled Banner." 



366 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinery Science and Domestic Economics 

Slbscription -sl.OO per Year Sin'-i.e Copies, lUc 
Foreign Postage: To Canada, 20c per Year 
Toother Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statetmnt of (nvmrship and managemtnt as required by 
the Act of Cong^ress of August 24, ic,l2. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers: R. B. HiLL, B. M. Hill 

Ou'furs : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co., 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

ESTK«ED AT BOSTOX POST-OFFICE AS SeCOXD-CLASS MaTTER 

PAST AXD PRESENT 

OCCASIONALLY we are reminded 
that we once were engaged in 
teaching in the public schools. During 
that time we subscribed regularly to the 
best educational papers, bought and read 
carefully many books on Education and 
Pedagog}-. always in fear and anxiety 
lest we fail to keep well-informed and 
practice the latest and best methods of 
instruction. Our steadfast aim and mo- 
tive were to do one thing, viz.. the work 
at hand, and to do that well. 



Today no one thing is more surprising 
to us than the marked contrast in educa- 
tional methods, as they are now prac- 
ticed, and as they were practiced a gen- 
eration or two ago. Instead of the gen- 
eral, theoretical education then in vogue, 
a more common and practical training is 
now everywhere demanded. And cer- 
tainly at some time every young man or 
woman must face the question, 'AMiat 
can you do?** Hence, wisely perhaps, 
the tendency of the age is strongly to- 
wards industrial and vocational training. 

To fit into the ever-changing condi- 
tions of life and perform a good work, 
one must of necessity be not only well- 
informed, but also specially and thor- 
oughly trained for his work or calling in 
life; and it follows that the transition 
from school to lifework should be as 
natural and free from friction as pos- 
sible. 

But amid all the changes that have 
taken place in our educational systems 
and ideals the old saying still remains 
true and unchanged: ''Whatsoever thy 
hand findeth to do, do it with thy might." 
Likewise our motive in the conduct of 
this journal remains ever the same; that 
is. to do one thing and to do that well. 

A few people seem to think still that 
because of our new title the magazine has 
been changed in other respects. Nothing 
is farther from the fact. No other 
change than in title has been made or 
contemplated. It is the same periodical, 
identical in content, texture and color, 
as well as in management. \\> only 
hope to grow larger, better and more 
useful. 

ANOTHER room has been added to 
the publication and business office 
of this journal. Here we are always 
glad to receive subscribers and other 
visitors. We have for examination, or 
purchase, a large assortment of books on 
cooking and Domestic Science, also many 
utensils and special appliances that are 
interesting to housekeepers. Here, by 
appointment, the editor of tlie magazine 



EDITORIALS 



367 



can be met at any time. The office is 
open until five o'clock P. M. daily. 
Teachers, visitors, subscribers, readers, 
all will receive hearty welcome and such 
information and assistance in sight- 
seeing as we are able to give. 

TIIS number includes the annual 
Christmas season which, instead of 
being an occasion of universal good 
cheer, must be tinctured everywhere with 
sadness and gloom. While the status of 
xAmerican homes fortunately remains 
quite normal, thought of the conditions 
in so many homes abroad must affect the 
spirits of all those who are in any way 
capable of thought and outlook. The 
long-cherished hope that the spirit of 
good-will to all men was soon to prevail 
far and wide has received, it would 
seem, an awful set-back. But let us not 
permit our interest in home life to les- 
sen, with which the welfare of humanity 
is so intimately connected. The Christ- 
mas season this year might well be made 
by us an occasion for manifesting the 
spirit of good-will outside of American 
homes. 

NEUTRALITY 

NEUTRALITY does not require 
quite so much of us as is some- 
times assumed. It does not mean that 
we must neutralize our minds, and sus- 
pend our judgments till they are choked. 
It is not the negation of opinion and the 
suppression of thinking. It is simple re- 
serve in expression, care of speech, and 
such constraint as will prevent friction 
and avoid embarrassing complications. 
It does not require of a man that he be 
on neither side. Such a man could not 
claim the name. It requires only that he 
take the side he takes only at time? and 
in a manner which will not involve him- 
self or others in hostility or prejudice. 
It must be clear that Americans as well 
as America must be strict in preserving 
neutrality ; but they need not neutralize 
the help of their influence, nor put their 
judgment to sleep. It must not be un- 



certain where we stand, though while we 
stand there we keep quiet and stand for 
fair play. The sympathy of the Amer- 
ican people may be of great help to make 
its neutrality effective. If its position 
should be mistaken by other nations, its 
neutrality might be harmful. c. R. 

IX a recent talk to college women stu- 
dents. Prof. Bliss Perry said : 

"At this hour the force of college 
training ought to be a potent factor. The 
fall of dynasties or the victory of one 
nation or another are things which the 
American public is indift'erent about. 
But there are other things about which 
they are not indifferent. 

''Without trespassing on neutrality it 
is fitting to say that they are not indif- 
ferent to the rights of smaller states, the 
sacredness of treaties, or the question as 
to whether might makes right." 

THE MIRACLE OF DIGESTION 

HAA^E you considered how like a 
miracle is the process of digestion. 
We put a dead looking brown bulb into 
the ground and when from it rises a 
stately white lily we say, "Behold a 
miracle." We give a man a bit of toast 
and bacon for breakfast and when it ap- 
pears later in a wonderful bit of states- 
manship or a great war maneuver, we 
fail to behold the miracle. Through 
what wonderful processes, all unplanned 
by us, unaided by our hands, that bit of 
food has been changed into thinking. 
moving, heating power! 

Ground up by the teeth, changed by 
the chemical action of the gastric juices, 
it is sent on its way into the blood stream 
that is the veritable river of life. Other 
mills to grind, other chemists along the 
way. exert their influence on the bit of 
food, and slowly, but surely, it becomes' 
the man himself, seeing, hearing, feeling, 
walking, thinking, doing. Whether we 
will it or not. the processes go on and 
our food is changed into muscle and 
bone, ners'e and brain cell. In and out, 
up and down, it is tossed by mern- red 



368 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



corpuscles, until at last it is fit to become 
a part of our personality and has its in- 
fluence on our work. 

Without our willing to, without our 
planning it, without the aid of our hands, 
this process goes on, but we can will 
whether or not the food is the kind that 
nourishes, and sustains and strengthens, 
and does its work at last with a cry of 
pain or a song of cheer. We can plan 
the kind and the amount of food that is 
to make up brain and muscle and make 
our work produce the energies and 
achievement of a useful man. 

It is a miracle of bringing the dead to 
life. What was yesterday merely food 
powerless to act or think or feel, is now 
writing an essay or editing a newspaper, 
teaching a roomful of boys and girls, or 
managing a shopful of men, or caring 
for the home and making it the center of 
happiness and usefulness. Whether 
these things shall be done well or ill, 
whether one has the power to be useful 
in any of these directions or merely an 
idler, depends far more than we are apt 
to believe on the kind and the amount of 
food that we pour into the mill that 
grinds out living and working force. 

OPPORTUNITY 

NEITHER war, famine or other 
calamity threatens our land. Un- 
less all signs fail the resources of this 
country, both natural and industrial, are 
to be called upon as never before in our 
history. It is just and right that we re- 
spond to the exigencies of the day and 
the occasion in a fair and business-like 
manner. By so doing the greatest good 
will be done, at home and abroad. The 
imprudent and slothful alone fail to 
avail themselves of their opportunities. 
At the same time we are well aware that 
enduring peace and prosperity at home 
are dependent upon the prevalence of 
similar conditions throughout the world. 



maintained. All respectable publications 
are advocates of pure foods. Certainly 
this journal has always advocated the 
cause of pure food as well as that of 
scrupulous cleanliness and sanitation in 
home life. It advertises no other than 
pure foods and standard articles for 
household use. In matters of diet we 
would choose to be regarded as a learner, 
a progressive, than as a faddist. 



Health, cheerfulness and activity are 
best conducive to prosperity and content- 
ment. It is said the introduction of 
baseball has done more to pacify and 
civilize the Fillipinos than any other 
agency the United States has been able 
to employ in the islands. 

Two new subscriptions insures the re- 
newal of your own subscription for one 
year ; it, also, is a way to make Christ- 
mas presents that are a continued satis- 
faction and reminder. 



If this journal has pleased or helped 
you in any wise, will you not tell about 
it to one or more of the most apprecia- 
tive persons you know? 



This Magazine has never claimed to 
be the original and sole champion of pure 
food. Such pretentions could not be 



THE WINNER 

Chance may seem to favor 

The coward in the strife, 
And give the base heart guerdons 

That crown a noble life ; 
But in the end truth conquers, 

The false-won laurel thins: 
Ever the years are proving — 

Only the brave heart wins! 

Oft may the tide of effort 

Turn, and a cause seem lost, 
And deeds of earnest striving 

On failure's rocks be tossed ; 
But when strong hands are guiding, 

The doomed vessel spins, 
And rides the storm to harbor: 

Only the brave heart wins! 

Not always the brave can master 

The strife of the moiling years. 
But if in a smiling silence 

He hears the victorious cheers, 
Stands calm 'mid a lifetime's wreckage, 

And vows that he shall begin 
Anew, a greater battle — 

Then, too, does the brave heart win! 
Arthur Wallace Peach. 




MARSHMALLOWS (SEE PAGE 374) 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Goose Liver Canapes 

COVER one or more goose livers 
with boiling water, and let sim- 
mer until tender ; drain, chop fine 
and press through a sieve ; add the sifted 
yolk (cooked) of an egg, a teaspoonful 
of onion juice, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika, a few grains of salt, and a little 
mixed mustard, if desired; mix all to- 
gether thoroughly, then beat the mixture 
into two tablespoon fuls of creamed but- 
ter and use to spread rounds of toast 
two inches and a half in diameter. Set 
a slice of cooked tgg above the mixture 
and serve as an appetizer at luncheon or 
dinner. 

Soup from Remnants of a Roast 
Goose 

Break up the body bones of a cold 
roast goose; add about a pound of beef 
or veal in small pieces, cover with cold 
water and let simmer about two hours ; 
add half a can of tomatoes, two onions, 
cut in slices, a carrot sliced, one or two 
stalks of celery, five or six branches of 
parsley, and two or three sage leaves. 



also a red chili pepper; cover half way 
and let simmer half an hour, then strain, 
pressing out all the liquid possible. 
When cold remove the fat and reheat to 
the boiling point ; stir in two tablespoon- 
fuls of cornstarch, smoothed in cold 
water, and let boil ten minutes. 

Roast Goose 

Scrub and wash thoroughly outside 
and in. Wipe dry. Season inside with 
salt and pepper. Cut the neck, do not 
cut the skin, on a line with the top of 
the wing bones, then turn the skin down 
over the back and truss through the 
wings and the legs in the same manner 
as a turkey is trussed for roasting. Cook 
about an hour, turning to cook on all 
sides ; then pour off the fat from the 
pan, dredge with flour, and lay slices of 
salt pork over the breast and let cook, 
basting with salt pork fat, until the joints 
will separate easily. The time depends 
on the age of the goose, and will vary 
from one hour and a half to three hours. 
A goose from four to six months old is 
the best. The goose a year old should 
be steamed before browning in the oven. 



369 



370 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Serve with apple or apple and barberry 
sauce. If desired, the goose may be 
stuffed. Apple rings with barberries are 
a pleasing garnish for the platter. Apple 
salad is appropriate with either roast 
goose or pork. 

Potato Stuffing for Roast Goose 

Take two cups of mashed potato, one 
cup of soft white bread crumbs, about 
one-third a cup of butter and onion juice, 
powdered sage, salt and pepper to season 
to taste ; mix thoroughly. 



barberries and one dozen large sour 
apples with just enough water to cover 
the apples. Let drain overnight. Meas- 
ure the juice, and set sugar, equal in 
measure to the juice, in pans, in the oven 
to become hot. Put over the fire the 
juice, drained from the apples and ber- 
ries, the juice of three oranges, a little 
of the orange rind and half a pound of 
seedless raisins. Let boil until the rais- 
ins are soft, then skim them out for 
other use ; add the hot sugar and let boil 
about fifteen minutes. 












ROAST GOOSE, GARNISH APPLE RINGS AND BARBERRIES 



Apple Rings 

Core tart apples, cut them in rings, 
and pare the rings ; make a syrup of a 
cup, each, of sugar and boiling water and 
the juice of half a lemon, and in it cook 
the rings, turning often to keep them 
whole. 

Barberry Sauce 

Pare and slice three pears, nearly 
cover with boiling water, and let cook 
until tender; add one quart of molasses, 
one pound of brown sugar, and two 
quarts of barberries, and let boil fifteen 
minutes. Pumpkin may be used in place 
of the pears. Strain the sauce or not as 
is desired. 

Barberry Jelly 

Boil together until soft four quarts of 



Apple, Celery-and-Green Pepper 
Salad 

Cut choice pared, tart apples in 
julienne shreds, and mix with two table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice to keep from 
discoloring. Cut inner, tender, white 
stalks of celery also in julienne shreds 
an inch and a half long. Cut a crisp, 
chilled green pepper in the same sort of 
shreds, but cut them narrower than the 
others. There should be about a pint of 
apple, a cup or more of celery to a large 
green pepper. Season with a teaspoon- 
ful and a half of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of paprika, and four tablespoon fuls of 
oil — (the acid was added in the first 
place to the apple), mix all together 
thoroughly. Have ready a head of ten- 
der, hot-house lettuce, washed and dried 
verv carefuUv. Have the stem cut so 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



371 




APPLE, CELERY-AXD-GREEN PEPPER SALAD 



that the head of lettuce will set well on 
the plate. Dispose the seasoned salad 
between the lettuce leaves and serve at 
once. 

Mock Crab Toast 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter in 
a double boiler or the blazer of a chafing- 
dish (over hot water). Put in eight 
ounces of cheese and a tablespoonful of 
anchovy paste, half a teaspoon ful of salt. 
and a teaspoonful of mustard, if desired. 
Stir constantly until the cheese is melted. 
Then stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs, 
diluted with half a cup of cream, and 
continue stirring until the mixture be- 
comes smooth and thick. Then serve at 
once on slices of toast or crackers. 

Oregon Salmon, Baked 

Butter an earthen baking dish, and in 
it set a thick piece of salmon. Melt 
three tablespoonfuls of butter ; in it cook 



half a green pepper, cut in shreds, and 
half an onion cut in thin slices and sep- 
arated into rings ; cook until softened a 
little, but not in the least browned ; add 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika and one cup of tomato 
puree (stewed tomatoes strained) and 
let cook until boiling, then pour over the 
salmon ; set into the oven and let cook, 
basting often with the tomato until the 
fish, when tested, separates from the 
bone. Serve in the baking dish. 

Sirloin Steak, Carte Blanche 

{A substitute for planked steak) 

Remove the flank end, and superfluous 
fat and bone from a Porter House steak 
of size suitable for two to four people. 
Broil in the usual way and dispose on a 
hot china or silver platter ; spread with 
sauce, Marrow sauce ; garnish with two 
to four, each, stufifed tomatoes, duxelles. 




SIRLOIN STEAK, CARTE BLAN'CHE 



Z12 



AMERICAX COOKERY 



bell peppers, stuffed with Risotto, broiled 
fresh mushrooms, grilled sweet potatoes, 
and strips of bacon. Serve at once. 

Marrow Sauce 

Cut beef marrow in half-inch cubes ; 
over half a cup of cubes pour a cup of 
hot brown stock, and let stand ten min- 
utes to keep hot without boiling. Pre- 
pare a cup of brown sauce of two table- 
spoonfuls, each, of butter and flour, one- 
fourth a teaspoon ful. each, of salt and 
paprika, and one cup of rich brown and 
highly-seasoned brown stock, and stir 
until boiling; add one tablespoonful. 
each, of chopped onion and parsley, one 



cup (or more) of brown stock and half 
a teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
and let cook, over boiling water, until 
the rice is tender; add one-fourth a cup 
of grated cheese and one tablespoonful 
of butter, lift the rice with two forks to 
mix in the cheese and butter, and use to 
fill the peppers. Let stand in the oven 
a few minutes to become very hot. 

Broiled Fresh Mushrooms 

Remove stems and peel the caps ; set, 
cup side downwards, in a hot. well-oiled 
broiler, and cook over the coals, cup side 
down, about two minutes ; turn and cook, 
cup side upwards, about three minutes. 




A SATISFYING LUNXHEOX, CREAMED FRESH FISH. PHILADELPHIA RELISH, 

RYE BREAD 



tablespoonful, each, of lemon juice and 
claret, and strain over the marrow. 

Bell Peppers Stuffed with Risotto 

Remove the seeds from the peppers in 
such a manner that the peppers may be 
used as a receptacle for cooked rice. 
Cover them with boiling water and let 
simmer about ten minutes, then drain 
and rinse in cold water and wipe dry. 
For the filling, set half a cup of rice over 
the fire, cover with iDoiling water, let 
heat quickly to the boiling point, stir and 
let cook two minutes, drain, and rinse in 
cold water. IMelt two. tablespoonfuls of 
butter in a frying pail; add a slice of 
onion, and let cook until yellowed and 
softened, then add the rice and stir and 
cook until the rice has absorbed the but- 
ter; add a cup of tomato puree, half a 



Remove to the steak with care to retain 
the juice in the cups. 

Stuffed Tomatoes, Duxelles 

For two to four tomatoes chop half an 
onion, about two tablespoonfuls of 
cooked ham, and four fresh mushrooms; 
cook these in one or two tablespoonfuls 
of butter until the moisture is evaporated 
and the onion is yellowed ; add an equal 
bulk of sifted, soft bread crumbs, the 
tomato scooped from the tomatoes to 
form cups, cut in bits, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, and salt and pepper as 
needed. Use to fill the tomatoes ; cover 
the top with cracker crumbs mixed with 
melted butter, and let cook until the to- 
matoes are tender and the cnmibs are 
browned, (about twelve minutes). In 
like manner stuff onions. 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



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OLD ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING 



Grilled Sweet Potatoes 

Brush over sliced, cooked sweet po- 
tatoes with melted butter or bacon fat 
and set in a well-oiled broiler ; cook about 
four minutes, or until hot throughout, 
turning often to avoid burning. Fresh 
cooked or cold potatoes may be used. 

Potato Souffle or Omelet 

Press one cup of hot or cold mashed 
potatoes through a ricer ; beat in half 
a cup of rich milk and half a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and pepper. Beat 
the whites of three eggs dry and the 
yolks until thick ; beat the yolks into 
the potato mixture, then fold in the 
whites evenly. Have ready, a hot well- 
buttered omelet pan (7 or 8 inches in 
diameter) ; in this spread the potato and 
egg-mixture, let stand on the range two 



or three minutes, to "set" the mixture 
on the bottom, then transfer to the oven 
(moderate heat) until cooked through- 
out. Score across the top at right 
angles to the handle of the pan, fold at 
the scoring and turn upon a hot plat- 
ter; grated onion, a tablespoonful or 
more, with a tablespoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley or two or three table- 
spoonfuls of grated cheese may be used 
to give variety. 

Old English Plum Pudding 

Pour one cup of milk on one cup of 
soft, sifted bread crumbs. Mix one cup 
of brown sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, 
one cup of fine-chopped suet, one pound 
raisins, one-half a pound of currants, 
one-half a cup of nut meats, one-fourth 
a pound of mixed citron and candied 
orange peel. Beat the yolks of four eggs ; 




SCOTCH SHORT BREAD 



374 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



add these to the softened crumbs, then 
add the sugar and fruit mixture, one cup 
of flour, one teaspoonful, each, of cinna- 
mon, nutmeg, clove and mace sifted to- 
gether, and, lastly, the whites of four 
eggs beaten dry. Steam in a buttered 
mold four hours. 

Scotch Short Bread 

Beat half a pound, or one cup, of but- 
ter to a cream ; beat in one-fourth a 
pound (half a cup) of coffee '^'\" sugar, 
then work in one pound (four cups) of 
pastry flour. If the flour be warmed, it 
mav be worked in more easily. Form 



may replace the maple sugar, if the 
quantity of milk be reduced to one cup. 

Christmas Wahiut Cake 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream. 
Then gradually beat in one cup and a 
half of granulated sugar. Add, alter- 
nately, three-fourths a cup of water and 
two and one-fourth cups of sifted flour, 
sifted a second time with two level tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt. Beat the 
whites of four eggs dry. Beat part of 
the eggs into the cake mixture, also one 
cup of walnut meats, broken in pieces 




CPIRISTMAS WALNUT CAKE 



the mixture into two flat, round cakes 
about seven or eight inches in diameter 
and half an inch in thickness ; decorate 
the edge by pressing the thumb upon it 
at regular intervals, or a knife or spoon 
handle may be used for this purpose. 
Sprinkle the top with caraway "comfits" 
or make a design upon it with strips of 
preserved citron and halves of candied 
cherries. Bake in a rather slow oven. 

Pumpkin Pie, Christmas Style 

Mix one cup and a half of strained 
pumpkin, one egg, beaten light, three- 
fovu'ths a cup of maple sugar, one table- 
spoonful of melted butter, one teaspoon- 
ful cinnamon, half a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and ginger, and one cup and a 
half of rich milk, and use to fill a pie 
plate lined with pastry. Bake about 
forty minutes. A cup of maple syrup 



and floured, and, lastly, the rest of the 
egg-whites. Bake in a round loaf in a 
moderate oven about fifty minutes. 
When cold cover with boiled icing, dec- 
orate the icing with candied or mara- 
schino cherries, cut in points to resemble 
petals of a flower ; fill the center of the 
flowers with yellow candies, first dipped 
in frosting to make them stay in place. 
Use narrow strips of anjelica or citron 
for stems. Finish the lower edge with 
fine-chopped pistachio nuts, pressed in 
place before the frosting is firm. 

Marshmallows 

Drain off some of the clear liquid from 
cooked tomatoes. Do not take' any pulp, 
simply uncolored liquid. Cook half a 
cup of sugar and one-fourth a cup of 
this liquid to 230° F. Stir occasionally 
while cooking. Strain this over one cup 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



375 




MARSHMALLOW CREAM 



and a half of sugar and three-fourths a 
cup of boihng water. Cook to 240° F. 
Remove from the fire and add one table- 
spoonful and a half of granulated gela- 
tine, softened in half a cup of cold water 
and dissolved by standing in a dish of 
boiling water. Mix and strain into a 
bowl. Beat until it is white and spongy, 
then gradually beat in the white of one 
egg beaten dry, and a teaspoonful of 
vanilla, and continue the beating until 
the mixture will almost ''set" on the 
beater. Pour into biscuit pans, dredged 
with confectioner's sugar. Let stand 
about twelve hours. Cut in cubes and 
roll in confectioner's sugar. 

Marshmallow Cream 

{To serve five) 

Soften one teaspoonful of gelatine in 
two or three tablespoonfuls of cold milk, and half a 



then dissolve by setting the dish in boil- 
ing water; add half a cup of sugar and 
one cup of double cream, and beat until 
firm throughout. Beat the white of a 
small Qgg dry, then fold it into the cream 
with half a teaspoonful of vanilla ex- 
tract, half a quarter-pound box of 
marshmallows cut in quarters, half a cup 
of skinned and seeded white grapes (cut 
in halves) one banana, peeled cut in 
cubes and mixed with a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice (to keep the pieces from dis- 
coloring). Dispose in glass cups with a 
few bits of red cherry here and there. 
Set one-fourth a marshmallow on the 
top of the mixture in each glass, sprinkle 
with fine-chopped nuts and set aside in 
a cold place until ready to serve. 

Tapioca-and-Pineapple Sponge 

Scald two cups of grated pineapple 
cup of boiling water in a 




TAPIOCA-AND-PINEAPPLE SPONGE 



376 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




FIG CAKE (SEE PAGE 377) 



double boiler ; stir in one-fourth a cup 
of any quick-cooking, fine tapioca, and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt ; stir 
occasionally and let cook about half an 
hour, then add the juice of half a lemon 
and one-fourth a cup of sugar, and fold 
in the whites of two eggs, beaten dry ; 
cover and let cook two or three minutes 
or until the tgg is set. Serve hot or cold 
in glass cups, with whipped cream piped 
above. Sweeten the cream with two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar to a cup of 
cream, before whipping. 

Grape-Juice Turkish Paste 

Soften three and one-half level table- 
spoonfuls of gelatine in half a cup of 
cold water; dissolve two cups of granu- 
lated sugar in two-thirds a cup of grape 
juice ; combine the two mixtures and let 
boil twenty minutes after boiling begins ; 
add the juice of half a lemon and turn 
into an H/ibuttered bread pan and set 



aside overnight. Sift confectioner's su- 
gar over the candy, loosen the candy 
from the tin at one edge, then gently 
and slowly pull it from the pan to a 
board dredged with confectioner's sugar. 
Press candy cutter into the candy to 
score it for cutting. If the candy is cut 
through, press the cubes from the cut- 
ter, roll in the sugar and set aside. If 
the cubes are cut only part way through, 
finish cutting with a knife, then roll in 
confectioner's sugar and set aside. 

Raspberry juice or orange juice may 
replace the grape juice. Candied cher- 
ries, chopped fine, or nuts, also chopped 
fine, may be added to any of these pastes. 
The candy can not, however, be cut as 
well and does not come from the pan as 
easily, if these additions are made. 



On the following pages we give, by 
request, additional recipes for inexpen- 
sive cakes. 




GRAPE-JUICE TURKISH PASTE 



For Inexpensive Cakes 



Dudley Cake 



13 cups flour 

3 level teaspoonfuls 

baking powder 
i teaspoonful mace 



i cup butter 
1 cup sugar 
1 cup currants 

1 egg and 1 yolk 
i cup milk 

xA.dd the currants to the creamed but- 
ter and sugar ; beat in the unbeaten yolk, 
then the whole egg, and finish in the 
usual manner. Bake in a sheet in a pan 
about eight and one-half inches square. 
If desired, use one tgg and one white. 
One square of melted chocolate, half a 
teaspoonful of cinnamon, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful of cloves and currants and 
citron as desired may be added to make 
a fruit cake. 

Icing for Dudley Cake 

2 tablespoonfuls of Ih cups (about) con- 
syrup fectioner's sugar 



and stir into the dry ingredients. Beat 
the mixture thoroughly. Bake in two 
layers. Put the layers together with 
chopped figs, dates or pineapple, cooked 
with a little sugar; sift a little confec- 
tioner's sugar over the top layer. Or, 
beat the white of egg left over, one cup 
of grated apple or sifted banana, one 
tablespoon ful of lemon juice, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of salt, and one cup and 
a half of confectioner's sugar twenty 
minutes, and use as both filling and 
frosting. 

Apple Sauce Cake (two eggs) 



i cup butter 

1 cup sugar 

2 eggs 

1 cup thin, well- 
sweetened and 
strained apple 
sauce 

1 level teaspoonful 
soda 



2 cups sifted flour 

1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 

i teaspoonful cloves 

2 tablespoonfuls 
cocoa 

1 cup mixed nut 
meats and raisins, 
dredged with flour 



Cream the butter, gradually add the 
ugar, then the eggs, beaten without sep- 
, rating. Stir the soda into the apple 
auce and add it to the first ingredients, 
.Iternately, with the flour, spices and 
ocoa sifted together. Lastly, add fruit 
nd nuts. Turn into the pan and sift 
ranulated sugar over the top. Bake 
bout half an hour in a sheet, a longer 
ime in a loaf. 



2 cups flour 1 egg and 1 yolk 

2 slightlv rounding 3 tablespoonfuls 

teaspoonfuls baking melted butter 

powder I cup milk 
1 cup sugar 

Sift all the dry ingredients together. 
Beat the eggs, add the milk and butter 



Apple Sauce Cake (one egg) 



cup butter 
cup sugar 
egg beaten light 
I cups sifted flour 
level teaspoonful 
soda 



1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
^ teaspoonful cloves 
1 cup hot, thick, 

strained apple sauce 
1 cup raisins 
1 cup currants 

Mix in the usual manner, bake in a 
tube pan about an hour and one- fourth. 

Coffee Cake 



i cup butter 
h cup brown sugar 
^ cup molasses 
1 yolk of egg 



i cup strong coff'ee 

1 level teaspoonful 
soda 

2 cups flour 



377 



2>7^ 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



h. cup dried currants I 1 teaspoonful ground 
i cup sliced citron | cloves 
I teaspoonful cinna- 
mon I 

Beat the butter to a cream ; add the 
other ingredients in the order given ; roll 
and sift the sugar, before adding it to 
the butter; sift the soda before measur- 
ing, then add to the flour and sift again 
with the flour. Bake in a large shallow 
pan about twenty minutes. Cover with 
Divinity Frosting. Serve cut in cubes. 
If preferred, bake in a brick-loaf bread 
pan about forty minutes. Sift two or 
three tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar 
over the top of the mixture in the pan 
before baking, then omit the frosting. 

Divinity Frosting 



1 egg-white 

2 teaspoonful extract 
of vanilla 



1 cup sugar 

4 cup glucose or corn 

syrup 
\ cup boiling water | 

Melt the sugar in the glucose and 
water; with the fingers, or a cloth wet 
in cold water, wash down the sides of 
the pan, cover and let cook two or three 
minutes, to dissolve any grains of sugar, 
then uncover and let boil rapidly to 238° 
F. or until a soft ball may be formed in 
cold water. Pour in a fine stream on 
the white of ^gg, beaten light, beating 
constantly meanwhile ; return to the fire 
over hot water and beat until the mix- 
ture thickens perceptably. Add the va- 
nilla before using. 

Chocolate Cake for Thirty People 



2 cups of sugar 
\ a cup of butter 

2 egg-yolks 

1 cup of hot water 

3 cups of sifted flour 



teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder 
a cake of chocolate 
a teaspoonful of 
salt 



Cream the butter; add one cup of 
sugar and the egg-yolks, beaten very 
light. Dissolve the chocolate in a dish 
placed over a pan of hot water; add one 
cup of sugar, the hot water, and let come 
to a boil; stir into first mixture. Sift in 
flour, baking powder, and salt. Beat 
mixture thoroughly until air bubbles ap- 
pear. Fill buttered cake pans about one 



and one-half inches thick with cake 
dough. If thicker than this, too hot an 
oven will be required to bake it, and it 
will burn. Bake in a moderate oven 
thirty to forty minutes, or until when 
pressed lightly with the finger the cake 
will spring back. 

Frosting 

Cook two cups of sugar and one cup 
of water until syrup will make a thread 
three inches long when dropped from 
tip of spoon. Beat the whites of two 
eggs very stifi:". Pour syrup in tiny 
stream over beaten whites, beating mix- 
ture constantly ; add two teaspoonfuls of 
vanilla, and continue beating until of 
right consistency to spread. 

One ounce of melted chocolate may be 
mixed with one-half of the frosting as 
soon as a syrup is poured over beaten 
eggs. Cover cake first with white frost- 
ing and allow to dry ; meanwhile, keep 
dish containing chocolate frosting in a 
pan of warm water to prevent becoming 
too hnrri "^Vhcn first frosting is dry, 



.; cup Dutter 
1 cup sugar 

1 egg 
3 level teaspoonful^ 

baking powder 

2 tablespoonfuls 
cocoa 

Bake in small tins. 



1 cup milk 

' cup raisins, chopped 
I cup chopped nuts 
1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
I nutmeg', grated 



Menus for a Week in December 



"The family table is an educational fact or of greatest importance to the children.' 
"An overdose of condiments kills the finer tastes." 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Whole Milk 

Broiled Bacon, Fried Bananas 

Broiled Potatoes Nut Bread 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 
Roast Duck (domestic) Apple Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes, Boiled Onions 

Apple, Celery-and-Green Pepper Salad 

Pineapple Tapioca, Whipped Cream 

Almond Biscuit 

Flalf Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Quince-and-Sweet Apple Preserves 

Dudley Cake Cocoa 



Breakfast 

Salmon-and- Potato Cakes 

Pickles 

Yeast Biscuit (reheated) 

Zwieback Cocoa Coffee 

Luncheon 

Succotash (dried beans, etc.) 

Boston Brown Bread 

German Apple Cake 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Neck of Lamb Stew 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Lettuce-and-Celery Salad 

Steamed Fig Pudding, Hard vSauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 



< 

o 



Breakfast 

Sausage Creamed Potatoes 

Fried Apples 

Dry Toast Doughnuts 

Cocoa Coffee 

Luncheon 

Cream of Celery Soup 

Risotto (with bits of duck) 

Chocolate Nut Cake 

Sliced Bananas with Lemon Jelly 

Tea 

Dinner 

Oregon Salmon Baked with Tomato 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Cabbage, Hollandaise 

Lemon Sherbet Cookies 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

•Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Pickled Beets 

Yeast Doughnuts 

Cocoa Coffee 

Luncheon 

Welsh Rabbit 

Apple, Celery-and-Green Pepper Salad 

Baking Powder Biscuit, Toasted 

Pumpkin Pie (with Maple Syrup) 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Lamb Chops Canned String Beans 

French Fried Potatoes 

Celery 

Marshmallow Cream 

Oatmeal Macaroons Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes, Maple Syrup 

Cocoa Coffee 

Luncheon 

Oyster Stew, Pickles 

Cranberry Pie 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Baked Bananas, Sultana Sauce 

Mashed Turnips Sweet Potatoes, Baked 

Sweet Rice Croquettes, Sabayon Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 



Breakfast 

Creamed Salt Codfish 

Small Potatoes Boiled or Baked 

Fried Mush, Maple Syrup 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of Lima Bean Soup 

Oregon Salmon, Baked with Tomato 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Philadelphia Relish 

Poor Man's Rice Pudding 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Mock Crab Toast 

Hot Apple Sauce 

Currant Cake Tea 



Breakfast Dinner Supper 

Plum Porridge, Thin Cream Roasted Spare Ribs of Pork Hot Boiled Rice, Thin Crean: 
(Cereal Cooked with Raisins) Apple Sauce Rye Bread and Butter 

2 Broiled Ham Fried Potatoes Franconia Potatoes Canned Pears Cottage Cheese 
^ I Cornmeal Muffins Baked Squash Mock Cherry Pie Caramels Tea 

(/) \ Cocoa Coffee Half Cups of Coffee 

379 



More Simple Menus for a Week in December 





Breakfast 


Breakfast 






Cereal, Whole Milk 


Broiled Bacon Fried Bananas 






German Coffee Cake, Butter 


White Hashed Potatoes 






Apple Marmalade 


Glazed Currant Buns 






Cocoa Coffee 


Cocoa 




< 




Dinner 


^ 


Dinner 


Hamburg Steak 


s 


Q 


Pork Chops, Baked 


Scalloped Potatoes Boiled Onions 


^ 


P 


Sweet Potatoes Baked Mashed Turnips 


Baked Indian Pudding, Hard Smice 


W 


Hot Cornstarch Pudding, Milk, Sugar 


Coffee 


O 
> 




Tea 


Supper 






Baked Potatoes, Butter 




Supper 


Smoked Halibut 






Mock Bisque Soup, Croutons 


Canned Fruit 






Emergency Cake 


Cookies 






Tea 


Tea 





Breakfast 

Cereal with Dates, Whole Milk 

Cornmeal Breakfast Cake 

Dry Toast 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Potato Soup 

Cabbage Creamed with Cheese 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Steamed Suet Fruit Pudding, Syrup Sauce 

Coffee 

Supper 

Risotto 

Stewed Crab Apples 

Gingerbread 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Oatmeal with Raisins, whole Milk 

Hashed Beef Round Stirred in 

Hot Frying Pan 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Bread Coffee 

Dinner 

Shoulder of Lamb, Boiled 

Boiled Turnips Boiled Cabbage 

Pumpkin Pie 

Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Apple Marmalade Toasted Crackers 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Sliced Bananas, Whole Milk- 
Frizzled Dried Beef 
German Fried Potatoes 
Graham or Rye Bread 
Coffee 

Dinner 

Cream of Celery Soup 

Cold Head Cheese (pork) 

Baked Potatoes Baked" Squash 

Piccalilli 

Baked Apple Tapioca Pudding 

Tea 

Supper 

Macaroni, Tomatoes and Cheese 

Graham Bread and Butter 

Honey Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Whole Milk 
Salt Codfish Balls 

Pickles 
Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner 

Fresh Fish Fillets, Baked 

Bread Dressing Drawn Butter Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes Buttered Beets 

Apple Dumplings, Hard Sauce 

Coffee 

Supper 

Cheese Pudding 

Bread and Butter 

Baked Apples 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Whole Milk 

Remnants of Fresh Fish, Curried 

Mashed Potato Cakes 

Bread and Butter 

Coffee 



Dinner 

Sausage, Fried Apples 
Mashed Potatoes Kale 
Baked Indian Pudding 
Coffee 

380 



Supper 

Boston Baked Beans 

Boston Brown Bread 

Pickles 

Cookies Tea 




.fm ^^ ^ ^ 




Our Daily Bread 

or Preparation in Detail of the Meals of One Day in December 

Family of Two Adults and Two School Children 



By Janet M. Hill 



SUNDAY 



Breakfast 

Plum Porridge, Thin Cream 

German Apple Cake, Butter 

Cocoa Cofifee 

Dinner 

Creole Chicken En Casserole 

Baked Sweet Potatoes Piccalilli 

Marshmallow Cream 

Orange Cookies Coffee 

Slipper 

Prune-and-Pecan Nut Salad, 

Whipped Cream Dressing 

Rye ,Bread and Butter 

Orange Cookies Tea 

BREAKFAST on Sunday is usually 
served a little later than on week 
days and, if full justice is to be 
done to a midday dinner, it is well that 
the breakfast be light. Much of the pre- 
liminary work for the dishes suggested 
in the above menu can be done on Satur- 
day and the housewife, while presenting 
to her family appetizing, well-prepared 
dishes, can attend church and read, rest 
or take a walk. Easily prepared meals 
on Sunday should be worked out in ad- 
vance, by each housekeeper, for there 
are psychological reasons why each and 
every one should indulge, once in a while, 
in a day of comparative rest, and also, 
occasionally, in a day of complete rest. 

Plum porridge seems a fitting break- 
fast dish for any morning in the month 



in which Christmas occurs. As soon as 
boiling water is at hand, put one pint of 
it and a generous half-cup of choice large 
raisins over the fire to boil ; add half a 
teaspoonful of salt and, as soon as boil- 
ing is again resumed, stir in the cereal. 
The quantity will vary with the kind of 
cereal selected and is usually indicated 
on the package, if cereal purchased by 
the package be used. It is well known 
that cereals in bulk are cheaper than ce- 
leals in packages. • For a slight change in 
flavor, particularly in winter, a table- 
spoonful of butter may be added with 
the salt. After the cereal has boiled vig- 
orously two or three minutes, set it into 
the hot water receptacle, cover and let 
cook undisturbed until breakfast is 
ready. Saturday evening sift together 
the dry ingredients for the apple cake, 
measure the butter and milk, butter the 
baking pan, and see that the egg, bowl 
and beater, also the currants, sugar and 
apples and knife are close at hand, then 
the mixing will be the work of a very 
few^ minutes and the cake will soon be 
baking. To mix work the butter (with 
two knives) into the dry ingredients, 
then stir in the beaten egg with the milk ; 
spread the mixture in a buttered pan 
about 6 X 12 inches in size. Pare the 
apples, cut into eighths, cover and set 
them in parallel rows, sharp edge down- 
ward in the cake ; sprinkle over the cur- 



381 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



s and dredge with sugar. When the 
; is in the oven, cream the butter for 
custard; beat in the sugar, then the 
en egg and the milk. When the bak- 
is nearly completed, pour over the 
ard, without removing the cake from 
oven, and finish the baking. Make 
coffee and cocoa and complete the 
ng of the table begim the night be- 

German Apple Cake 



ps flour 
ispoonful salt 
re\ teaspoonfuls 
king powder 
p butter 



1 egg 

1 cup milk 
3 apples 

3 tablespoon fuls cur- 
rants 



Custard Part 
:)lespoonfuls but- 3 tablespoon fuls 

sugar 
g, well-beaten 2 cup milk 

n Saturday separate the chicken, or 
1, into pieces at the joints, strain the 
atoes, slice an onion, and chop or 
;d a green pepper, for the casserole 
; remove skins and seeds (cut in 
es) from the grapes ; cut the marsh- 
iows in quarters and chop the nuts 
the marshmallow cream. Make the 
cies. Cook the prunes and cut them 
leat, lengthwise slices, and sHce the 
in nuts for the salad. Bake rye bread, 
leep occupied every moment while 
breakfast is cooking; work is done 
;h more easily in the early part of the 

than it is later on. Of course, the 
)ol children will clear the breakfast 
e and wash, wipe and set away the 
les, leaving the housewife free to set 
chicken to cook, prepare the potatoes 

make the dessert. The recipe for 
chicken follows : 

Creole Chicken en Casserole 

*oll the pieces of chicken in flour sea- 
ed with a little salt and pepper, then 
cook brown in hot salt pork or bacon 
Do not let the fat become too hot 
ore using it, and cook the chicken to 
ither light brow-n color. Transfer the 
:es as soon as they are cooked to a 
serole, add the sliced onion and shred- 
l pepper, with one pint of tomato 



puree and about one cup of boiling 
water, or enough to cover the pieces ; let 
stand on the top of the range until the 
liquid boils, then cover and set to cook 
in the oven. Let cook very slowly. The 
time will depend on the age of the 
chicken ; this will be from one hour and 
a half to two hours and a half or three 
hours. When ready to serve, melt one- 
fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one- 
fourth a cup of flour, then add about half 
a teaspoon, each, of salt and pepper and 
the liquid drained from the chicken; stir 
until boiling, then return to the casserole. 
The sweet potatoes will bake in from 
thirty to forty-five minutes, according to 
size and temperature of the oven. 

The recipe for marshmallow cream 
will be found on another page in the Sea- 
sonable menus. This is best after it has 
stood a short time and can be prepared 
after breakfast and set aside in the re- 
frigerator. When putting the kitchen in 
order after dinner, wash each leaf of a 
head of lettuce with care, shake in a 
cloth, pack closely in a covered dish and 
set aside in the refrigerator. At night 
whatever is left to do for supper can be 
accomplished in ten or fifteen minutes. 
The ingredients for the salad dressing 
are one cup of double cream, one-fourth 
a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of paprika, and two tablespoon fuls of 
lemon juice or red wine vinegar. Beat 
all together until very light ; sprinkle a 
little salt over half a pound, each, of 
sliced prunes and pecan nuts, then mix 
with the dressing and serve on the let- 
tuce leaves carefully dried. 

Orange Cookies 

cup orange juice 



2 cups or more flour 
4 level teaspoonfuls 
baking powder 



•i cup butter 

1 cup granulated 

sugar 
Grated rind 1 orange 
1 egg, beaten light 

Beat the butter to a cream ; add the 
other ingredients in the order enum- 
erated. Roll into a sheet, cut into 
shapes, set into a baking pan, dredge 
with granulated sugar and l)akc in a mod- 
crate oven. 




SAVOURIES 



383 



Two Loaves Rye Bread 



but- 



2 cups scalded milk 
h cake compressed 

yeast 
i cup scalded milk, 

cooled 
1 teaspoonful salt 

On Friday or Saturday night mix the 

yeast in the half-cup of liquid ; dissolve 



4 cup molasses 
2 tablespoonfuls 

ter 

5 cups rye flour 
About 3 cups white 

bread flour 



the salt and butter in the hot liquid, add 
the molasses, and when lukewarm the 
yeast and flour, and mix to a dough. 
Knead until elastic, then cover and set 
aside overnight, to become light. In the 
morning, cut down and shape into -two 
loaves, cover and let stand until again 
light. Bake one hour. 



4< Q • »> 

oavouries 



By Anna Sawyer 



JUST how lung the much-talked-of 
"cost of living" has been rising 
only a statistician can say, and he 
only approximately, but no one knows 
better than the housekeeper that during 
the last decade that cost has soared to 
an appalling extent, and that in no direc- 
tion is the fact more plainly evidenced 
than in the provisioning of the family 
table. It is the housewife who, with no 
increase of income, — too often with a 
decrease, — must contrive to set forth the 
everyday, as well as the festive board, 
with food as nutricious, as varied, and as 
tempting as she was formerly able to do 
on half the money. Pater familias may 
find it difficult to do his part in provid- 
ing the wherewithal, but let him not 
under-rate the task of his better half ! 
She it is who must not only solve the 
problem of making both ends meet, but 
another, perennially exacting, of pleasing 
everybody. 

Fortunate, indeed, is the woman whose 
family does not regard meat, rather than 
bread, as the staff of life, but even with 
our modern theories as to diet, these are 
in the minority, and meat, in some form, 
is expected to take a prominent place in 
not less than one, and too often all of 
the three meals. Where it is expected 
three times, the housekeeper may well 
call hygiene to the aid of economy, and 
sternly refuse to indulge inordinajp de- 
mands, but should she be forced {o yield 



a meat dish at two meals, she may well 
insist that that provided at lunch or 
supper shall be of the lightest sort. For 
the principle meal of the day she even 
then confronts an apparent necessity for 
that meat course which is, she well 
knows, one of the greatest strains on 
her table allowance. 

Now there was a time, not long since, 
when the household economist might 
take refuge in the purchase of "cheaper 
cuts". Indeed, so general was the reli- 
ance on this economy that necessity ap- 
peared as virtue, and the cry for these 
became almost a slogan. Teachers of 
cooking took up the good cause. We 
were instructed that, as a rule, inferior 
cuts contained more nourishment than 
expensive ones, and it became the fash- 
ion to learn how to prepare these tempt- 
ingly. Then, alas, all too soon did eco^ 
nomic forces, too complicated to be dis- 
cussed in a paper of the scope of this 
one, dictate a rising scale all along the 
line, — a scale not only including our 
cheaper cuts, but every other known 
foodstuff, until even the old platitude 
about living on "mush and milk", for 
economy's sake, became an empty dream. 

And so it has gone on until the aver- 
age housekeeper looks on the roast 
which she once considered, as a matter 
of course, as a luxury to be infrequently 
indulged in, while she now regards the 
pieces she was wont, as an economist, to ^ 



384 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



V" 



make into stews, ragouts and the like, 
as rather extravagant, though necessary. 

It is in this emergency that American 
housewives may well take a leaf out of 
the note-books of their English cousins. 

Not that we are advising the adoption, 
in toto, of the bills of fare usual among 
the class of English people of whom we 
speak. Far from it. As a rule, the Eng- 
lish are probably the largest meateaters 
in the world, and in the average well- 
to-do household more meat would be 
used in a day than would suffice an 
American family of the same size for 
several. Neither do we allude to the 
food partaken of by tourists in the mon- 
grel, French-British hotel, or, on the 
other hand, the essentially British one. 
As a matter of fact, as an English friend 
once remarked to the writer, ''The table 
in the ordinary hotel is very, very dull!" 
That expresses it exactly. It is domi- 
nated by dried-up meat — nothing being 
more a rara avis than the ''i-are roast 
beef of old England — " vegetables chiefly 
of the turnip-cabbage-cauliflower type, 
swimming in warm, greasy water, to- 
gether with heavy bread, excellent fish, 
good bacon, and fowls, no salads to 
speak of, and desserts too tasteless to 
mention. 

In the middle class home, however, 
and among the delightful little countr}^ 
inns where the cooking is truly ''home 
cooking", it is quite different. Here will 
be found a most appetizing, and tempt- 
ing table, though its courses are perhaps 
to our change-loving tastes rather "cut 
and dried" ; yet there are certain points 
which, in our attempts to make up for 
the lessened importance of meats, may 
serve us well, by adding variety, and one 
might almost say "color", which will go 
a long way to atone for the lack. In the 
English lunch, dinner, supper "High 
Tea" even breakfast, meats still pre- 
dominate in meals which would seem 
without them sufficient in point of nutri- 
ment. To the average American it 
would seem incredible that so many 
dishes should be considered essential, but 
the very fact that they are so consid- 



ered is probably the reason why there is 
almost invariably served among them 
one or more so-called "Savouries," 
which, served as entrees between 
heartier courses, probably whet the fal- 
tering appetite for the succeeding ones. 

Now in her grappling with the conun- 
drum, it seems to us, the American 
housewife may, with benefit, make use 
of the English "Savoury", not to in- 
crease an already too hearty meal, but to 
take a prominent part in one otherwise, 
perhaps, at least so far as the palate is 
concerned, not quite hearty enough. By 
use of one or more she may give charac- 
ter to a meal of which the main meat 
dish is very simple, also zest, and variety 
to the whole menu. 

Just what a "Savoury" is, it is a little 
difficult to define. As definitely as may 
be stated, it is what its name implies, a 
dish of "savor", of "smack" of "zest". 
Whether as an accompaniment of dinner, 
lunch, "High Tea", it fills its part to per- 
fection, and, as the piece de resistence 
of a light meal, stands the housekeeper 
in good stead. 

To give some idea of the importance 
the Savoury plays in the British house- 
hold, the writer gives an account of her 
first meeting with a charming old Eng- 
lish lady from wJiose note-book she has 
been privileged to take the recipes given 
below. 

The meeting happened, by chance, on 
the veranda of a hotel in California, 
for the time being occupied only by a 
daintily prim little person engaged in 
knitting a "Shetland shawl", and the 
writer. Through the friendly courtesy 
of the former a conversation began 
which almost immediately drifted into 
domestic channels. Now had a lady of 
our own nation, on first acquaintance, 
opened such a subject, some surprise 
would have been felt, but a little experi- 
ence with our transatlantic relations, 
English or German, teaches that this is 
the usual outcome of even a chance 
meeting, therefore, we were not sur- 
prised when, with nuich interest on her 
sweet, placid face, our new acquaint- 



ADVERTrSEMENTS / 




These are Different 

T^HE chief difference between Crisco doughnuts and others is their 
digestibility. Crisco itself is readily digestible and anything fried in 
it is most wholesome. ^^^ 

(RISCO 

^L /or Fryrng -For Shortening 
^^^' For -Cake MaMing 

Then, too, Crisco can be made so much hotter than lard, without burning, that when the dough is 
placed in it the extreme heat of the Crisco immediately forms a light, tender crust. The inside is sealed 
against the absorption of fat and in consequence is lighter than the ordinary doughnut. 

Do not wait for Crisco to smoke, but test from time to time with a bit of dough. 

You will find that Crisco doughnuts agree with every member of 
your family and that each will ask that the doughnut jar be filled every 
week. There are four delightful doughnut recipes in this book. 

Beautiful cloth-bound book of new recipes and a 
"Calendar of Dinners" for five 2-cent Stamps! 

This handsome book by Marion Harris Neil gives 615 excellent 
tested recipes. Also contains a "Calendar of Dinners" — a dinner 
menu for every day in the year. The Calendar tells uuhat-^ the recipes 
tell ho'-w. Book also contains cookery hints and the interesting story 
of Crisco' s development. Bound in blue and gold cloth. To those 
answering this advertisement it will be sent for finje 2-cent 
stamps. Address Dept. A-12, The Procter & Gamble Co., 
Cincinnati, Ohio. 




Buy advertised goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
393 



394 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Work the unbeaten white of an tgg 
gradually into the paste ; then beat in the 
sugar, and when thoroughly blended beat 
in the other unbeaten white of egg. Sift 
confectioner's sugar on to a board, and 
on it shape the mixture, into crescents, 
then roll in the nuts. Bake on tins cov- 
ered with paper. Use a slightly round- 
ing teaspoonful for each crescent. To 
shape, roll into a ball in the hands, then 
lengthen this on the board under the 
fingers, pressing more firmly on the ends 
than the center. Use the chopped nuts, 
with or without powdered sugar, on the 
board when shaping the balls into cres- 
cents. 



Query No. 2446. — "Recipes for use of 
Honey." 

Honey in Salad Dressing 

In any salad dressing calling for 
sugar, use strained honey in the place of 
sugar. In mayonnaise for tomatoes use 
a teaspoonful of honey to each cup of oil 
employed in the dressing. 

Honey Cookies 

Cream half a cup of butter; beat in 
three-fourths a cup of sugar, one egg 
and one yolk, beaten together, half a cup 
of strained honey, the grated rind of a 
lemon and three cups of flour sifted with 
four teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
More flour may be required. The dough 
should be firm enough to be easily 
handled. Knead slightly (a little at a 
time), roll into a thin sheet and cut into 
cakes. Set the shapes in a buttered pan ; 
beat the white of an egg (left for the 
purpose) a little, and use it to brush over 
the cookies ; in the pan, then at once 
sprinkle T)n some fine-chopped, blanched 
almonds and dredge with granulated 
sugar. Bake in a moderate oven. 

^ Honey Wafers 



mixture on tin baking sheets to form 
very thin rounds about two inches in 
diameter. Use a palette knife to spread 
the mixture. Bake in a moderately 
heated oven. About one minute after 
removal from the oven, lift the wafers 
from the tins with a palette knife and 
shape them over a piece of clean broom 
handle. Let them remain on the handle 
until cool ; store in tin when cold. 



1 cup strained honey 

2 cups flour 



J cup butter 
i cup sugar 
Grated rind 1 lemon 

Cream the butter and beat in the sugar, 
lemon rind, honey and flour. Spread the 



Query No. 2447. — "Recipe for Cooked 
Fondant." 

Fondant, Latest Method 

Stir two pounds (four cups) of sugar 
and a cup and a half of water over the 
fire until the sugar is melted. Just be- 
fore the syrup begins to boil, with a 
hand, a brush, or a cloth dampened in 
cold water, wash down the sides of the 
kettle, to remove any grains of sugar 
from the sides of the pan. Cover the 
kettle, and let boil for two or three min- 
utes, to remove any grains of sugar that 
may yet remain on the saucepan. Now 
remove the cover, and set a sugar ther- 
mometer into the syrup, letting it lean 
against the side of the kettle. Put the 
thermometer in gently, to avoid sugaring 
the syrup; for the same reason do not 
move or jar the kettle in any way. Have 
ready a marble slab or a large platter set 
in a cool place, and, when the mercury 
in the thermometer begins to approach 
240°, dampen the slab or platter with 
the hand wet in cold water. The mo- 
ment the thermometer registers 240° 
(see page 270), take it from the sauce- 
pan, and take up the saucepan carefully 
and without shaking, and pour the syrup 
onto the slab or platter. Do not scrape 
the saucepan or allow the syrup to drip 
from it, as all sugary portions must be 
removed from the fondant, or it will be 
grainy when worked. Let the syrup re- 
main undisturbed until it is absolutely 
cold. This is an important point to re- 
member. When there is no heat left in 
the syrup, with a scraper (such as is 
used in removing wall paper) or a 



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Is receiving high ecomiums for its general excellence and the 
remarkable manner in which the author has accomplished her 
work. To the physician and nurse it has made an earnest ap- 
peal ; for the home it has an unquestionable value in its helpful- 
ness in cases of sickness. It contains a full and comprehensive 
treatment of the various diseases of the body; gives a list of 
What to Eat and What to Avoid in each particular case ; and 
tells how to select and prepare the foods recommended. Over 
800 recipes are given for making tempting and nutritive dishes 
for the invalid. 

Bound in Buckram Cloth, $2.00; by Mail, $2.15 

Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or 

ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
395 



396 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



wooden spatula, turn the outside of the 
fondant towards the center until the 
mass begins to look creamy ; gradually 
knead it into a ball, scraping the marble 
clean with the spatula. Lay a damp 
cloth over the ball, closing it in around 
the edges ; let stand about an hour. Cut 
it into pieces and press into a deep bowl, 
cover close with a damp cloth that does 
not touch the candy. When ready to 
use, take out such portion as is desired, 
let melt, stirring constantly, over hot 
water, adding a very little hot water, if 
needed, and flavoring and color paste as 
desired. Melted chocolate and a flavor- 
ing of vanilla is often used. In this 
drop, one by one, centers made of the- 
fondant, mixed with nuts and candied 
fruit and a little confectioner's sugar, to 
obviate the stickiness of the fondant. 
When a centre is covered, take out with 
a hook, and drop onto parafifin paper or 
a tin sheet. Halved or chopped pistachio 
nuts make a pretty decoration for such 
bonbons. For maple fondant use two 
pounds of maple sugar, one pound of 
white granulated sugar, and a pint of 
water, and proceed as for the white 
fondant. 

The flavoring used should correspond 
with the tint. Rose is appropriate for 
rose-tinted, almond and vanilla for green 
tinted candies. 

After the centers are shaped, let them 
stand several hours or overnight to 
harden on the outside a little. 



Query No. 2448. — "Recipe for Adams 
House Meringue for puddings and pies given 
in The Boston Cooking School Magazine in 
December-January number 1898-9. Also rec- 
ipe for Angel Pudding given in same number 
of the magazine." 

Adams House Meringue 

4 teaspoon ful vanilla 

extract 
4 teaspoonful lemon 

extract 

Beat the whites of eggs until dry; 
gradually beat in half the sugar, then 
fold in the other half of the sugar and 
the extract. Set the meringue on the 



3 egg-whites 
7i tablespoonfuls 
granulated sugar 



c()t)ked dish, cooled a little, heaping it 
high in the center. Smooth and score it 
with a knife, dredge lightly with gran- 
ulated sugar, and let bake in a very mod- 
erate oven ten minutes, without coloring; 
then let color delicately. 

Angel Puddings 



i cup sugar 
i cup grated bread 
crumbs 



i cup butter 
i cup flour 

1 cup scalded milk 

2 eggs 

Cream the butter, beat in the flour and 
let cook in the hot milk, stirring con- 
stantly, until the mixture thickens. Beat 
the eggs, add the sugar, and stir into the 
hot mixture; stir in the crumbs — (meas- 
ured rather solid) and turn into individ- 
ual tins, carefully buttered and dredged, 
with sugar. Bake until firm. Turn on 
to a serving dish, sift powdered sugar 
over them and serve with hard or royal 
sauce in a bowl. 

Royal Sauce 

Beat one tablespoonful of butter to a 
cream and beat into it two teaspoonfuls 
of cornstarch; add one cup of boiling 
water, half a cup of jam or jelly and the 
juice of half a lemon, and stir until boil- 
ing; let simmer five minutes, strain, and 
add a tablespoonful of brandy if desired. 



Query No. 2449. — "Am not successful with 
frosting made of fondant ; it hardens too 
quickly. Which sugar is the best for fon- 
dant, granulated or powdered?" 

Fondant for Frosting 

See recipe for fondant given in an- 
swer to Query 2447. This fondant 
makes excellent, soft, creamy frosting for 
cake. To use, set the portion needed in 
a dish of hot water; to it add about a 
teaspoonful (or more) of boiling water 
or hot sugar syrup, and at once beat 
thoroughly while it softens ; add the 
flavoring and, if the cake has a large 
surface, pour the fondant over it. Dip 
small cakes into the fondant. Think 
granulated or cofifee *'A" sugar better 
than powdered sugar for cooked fondant. 



i 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
397 



398 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



1 or 2 ounces choco 
late 



Query No. 2450.— "Recipe for Chocolate 
Filling for meringue shells, cream puffs, etc., 
something soft and creamy, and of the con- 
sistency of firm-whipped cream." 

Chocolate Filling 

2 tablespoonfuls 

sugar 
1 cup double cream 

Melt the chocolate, add the sugar and 

two tablespoonfuls of the cream, and stir 

until smooth and boiling ; add to the rest 

of the cream and let chill thoroughly, 

then beat until firm. 

Chocolate Filling No. 2 

li cups hot milk 2 teaspoonful vanilla 

i cup flour 2 eggs 

i cup cold milk I cup sugar 

i teaspoonful salt 

Mix the flour and salt with the cold 

milk and stir into the hot milk ; continue 

stirring until the mixture thickens, then 

cover and let cook fifteen minutes. Beat 

the yolks of the eggs, add the sugar and 

beat again, then stir into the hot mixture ; 

continue to cook until the egg is "set," 

then fold in the eggs, beaten dry ; when 

the white is ''set," remove from the fire 

and beat occasionally until cold, then add 

the vanilla. 



Query No. 2451. — "Recipe for Chou Farci." 

Stuffed Cabbage 

Use a head of savory cabbage. Set the 
cabbage in cold water, stem end up, 
to stand about an hour. Cover with boil- 
ing water and let simmer about fifteen 
minutes; drain and chill a little in cold 
water. Set the cabbage stem end down 
on a piece of cheese-cloth. Have ready 
about half a cup of rice, boiled to have 
the grains whole, a cup of chopped 
cooked ham, or ham and veal mixed, a 
teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley and 
a teaspoonful of grated onion if desired; 
mix these all together with half a tea- 
spoonful of paprika or one chili pepper 
chopped fine, and half a teaspoonful of 
salt. A little tomato catsup may be used 
to hold the mixture together. Put a 
tablespoonful of the mixture at the cen- 
ter of the cabbage, and fold the leaves 
over it; put a layer of the mixture on 



these leaves and fold other leaves over it 
— continue in this way until all the in- 
gredients are used. Bring the cheese- 
cloth up around the cabbage, tie with 
a string, and set into a saucepan of 
boiling water; let cook from three- 
fourths to a whole hour. Remove care- 
fully to a dish, take off the cloth, and 
pour over a pint of Hollandaise or cream 
sauce. 



Query No. 2452.— "Recipe for Brine to be 
used for pickled tongues and corned beef." 

Brine for Pickling Meats 

1 quart salt | i cup brown sugar 

1 ounce saltpetre | 1 gallon cold water 

Rub part of the salt into the meat; 

dissolve the rest of the salt, the sugar 

and the saltpetre in the water, put in the 

meat and set a weight above to keep the 

meat under the brine. Let stand in a 

cool place. Thin pieces of meat and 

tongues will be ready to cook in three or 

four days. For less salt meat, shorten 

the time in the brine. 



Query No. 2453. — '^How may squash and 
pumpkin pies be baked to avoid a pasty un- 
dercrust?" 

Baking Squash and Pumpkin Pies 

Use a tin or agate rather than an 
earthen plate. Have an oven with strong 
heat at the bottom when the pie is set 
into it ; lower the heat before the filling 
begins to bubble. By this means the 
crust is baked considerably before the 
filling is heated through. 

REFRIGERATORS-ICE BOXES 

and all places where meats and foodt 

are kept should be regularly disinfected 

and purified by using 

Platts rhlorides . 

The Odorless Disinfectant 

Destroys germs and foul odors, does not 

permeate the food. 

Safe, Efficient catd Economical. Sold Everywhere 

HENRY B. PLATT 
42 Cliff Street. New YorK City, N. Y. . 



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399 



New Bookj 



Hozu to Cook and Why. By Elizabeth 
CoNDiT and Jessie A. Long. Price 
$1.00 net. Harper and Brothers, 
New York. 
The book presents in simple, untech- 
nical language for the average house- 
keeper the scientific principles underly- 
ing cookery. It does not give recipes, 
but it does give in a direct, practical way 
the facts, principles, and general direc- 
tions which enable the housekeeper to 
use cook-books and to learn to be some- 
what independent of them also. This 
book has been written to meet the needs 
of two classes — the girl of high-school 
age and the average housekeeper. 

As the title itself indicates, the book is 
intended to impart information, to in- 
struct, that is, to serve as guide to in- 
telligent and prudent housekeeping. 




From this point of view it is a simple, 
concise and pleasing contribution. This 
is not a cook book, but how and why to 
cook and serve the several kinds of 
foods is made intelligent to the average 
housewife who has had neither time nor 
opportunity for scientific research and 
training. 

Planning and Furnishing the Home. By 
Mary J. Quinn. Price $1.00 net. 
Harper & Brothers, New York. 

This book is intended for the every- 
day homemaker. General principles, de- 
tails, and warnings are given for practi- 
cal help in house or apartment. 

In an introductory note Miss Isabel 
Ely Lord, of Pratt Institute, says : 

**The book differs from other available 
books on the subject. There is a group 
of valuable books on historic furniture, 
intended chiefly for the connoisseur, and 
another group of practical books which 
either give nothing on the historic side 
or deal with expensive furnishings. 
Miss Quinn has written a book between 
these two classes, with a statement of 
principles and a rapid review of historic 
furniture because these are necessary as 
a basis, but with the practical side of de- 
tails, directions, and prices that will as- 
sist the buyer of average means. Per- 
liaps the main purpose of the book is to 
^how that the family whose purse, is 
slim can nevertheless have a beautiful 
setting if intelligence, interest, a reason- 
ible amount of time, and the knowledge 
:his book gives can be added to the 
money available." 

Diet For the Sick. By Sarah Tyson 
RoRER. Price $2.00 net. Arnold & 
Company, Phila., Pa. 
Mrs. Rorer has had large experience. 
She is an excellent dietician and a well- 
known practitioner, as far as diet is con- 
cerned. Perhaps this will be the most 



Buy advertised goods 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 




1.4 •"-'*,«- 



r--^^' 




The finest Almonds 
come from Smyrna 

'IX^HICH would you rather 

^ ^ use, an extract made from 

peuli and apricot stones or 

one made from choice 

Smyi-na Almonds? 






Burnett's Almond Extract is care- 
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preserving peaches a few drops in each ar 
will add greatly to the flavor ^ 



Dainty and Artistic Desserts 



ilaxnty desserts. Please men- 
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36 India Street, Boston, Mass 

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useful and important work she has pro- 
duced. In feeding the sick, what to eat 
and what to avoid in each case, the 
proper selection and preparation of 
recipes, together with a physician's ready 
reference list, may be found here. Her 
"word to the wise" and ''golden rules for 
those who feed the sick" are worthy to 
be read, re-read and put into practice. 
The book should be regarded as the 
standard of its class. / 



A Study of Foods. By Ruth A. War- 
DALL and Edna Noble White. 
Price .70. Ginn & Company, Boston. 

The object of this work is not to pro- 
vide training for a finished cook, for 
skill comes only with experience and 
practice ; neither is there an attempt to 
make a food expert. A serious consid- 
eration of the subjects of chemistry, the 
physiology of digestion and dietetics, be- 
longs to a university course. The work 
as outlined will give some knowledge of 
food materials, of the effect of heat up- 
on them, of methods of- manipulation, 
and of comparative cost of commercial 
and domestic production. 

As a guide to the study of the subject 
of foods, this is an excellent text book 
for schools. The illustrations of this 
book are especially interesting and in- 
structive. They are a distinct addition 
to the value of the work. 



hnice Day. By Helen Beecher Long. 
12 mo. cloth, $1.25 net. Sully and 
Kleinteich, New York. 
This is the story of a young girl, "a 
new-fashioned girl," whose circum- 
stances impel her to do her utmost to 
improve her surroundings. Of course 
she succeeds and wins for herself recog- 
nition and an enviable place in the com- 
munity. There is nothing deep or sen- 
sational in the narrative. It is a simple, 
wholesome story that is likely to interest 
young people and inspire them to un- 
selfish, noble lives. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
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Put that rich butter and cream 
flavor into your baking 

Next *'bake-day" try this experiment: 
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CARNATION MILK 




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Give Carnation Milk a thorough trial and it will be your choice 
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AMERICAN COOKERY 





Mdke_your 

CANDIES 

dt home this 

CHRISTMAS wiiK 
KNOX GELATINE 

You will find them delicious 
and inexpensive to make. 

This recipe shows you how 

easily and quickly you can 

make these new confections. 

KNOX FRENCH DAINTIES 

2 envelopes KNOX Acidulated Gelatine 

4 cups granulated sugar 

1 Vz cups boiling water 

1 cup cold water 

Soak the gelatine in the cold water five 
minutes. Add the boiling water. When 
dissolved add the sugar and boil slowly 
for fifteen minutes. Divide into two 
equal parts. When somewhat cooled 
add to one part one-half teaspoonful of 
the Lemon Flavor, found in separate 
envelope, dissolved in one tablespoonful 
water and one tablespoonful lemon ex- 
tract. To the other part add one table- 
spoonful brandy, if desired, one-half 
teaspoonful extract of cloves, and 
color with the pink color. Pour into 
shallow tins that have been dipped 
in cold water. Let stand over night ; 
cut into squares. Roll in fine granu- 
lated or powdered sugar and let stand 
to crystalize. 

Vary this recipe by using different 
flavors and colors, and if desired, add 
chopped nuts. figs, dates, raisins or pea- 
nuts to the lemon mixture. "^ 
Send for this FREE Recipe Book 
An illustrated book of recipes for 
Candies, Desserts, Jellies, Puddings, 
Ice Creams, Sherbets, Salads, etc., 
sent FREE for your grocer's name. 
Pint sample for 2c stamp and grocer's name. 
CHARLES B. KNOX COMPANY 
7 Knox Ave., Johnstown, N. Y. 



' KNOX 

^pARKLlNj(j 

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TO- — 



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"Mrs. Rfppleton's afternoon tea," said 
Mrs. Twickembury, *'was a perfect 
»^^"abylon of soundsi!- 



Just S 



miles 



A pessimist, said Representative Fess, 
asks, ''Is there any milk in that pitcher?" 
But'-'an optimist says, "Pass the cream, 
please." — Washington Star. 



Certainly He Knew 

A well-known Bishop who has a wife 
of pronounced temperament one day 
caught a small boy stealing grapes from 
his vine. He reproved the offender 
sternly, and concluded : 

**Do you know, my boy, why I tell you 
this? There is One before Whom even 
I am a crawling worm. Do you know 
Who it is?" 

"Sure," said the boy unhesitatingly, 
"the missus." 



A gentleman and lady came out of the 
Albert Hall one night to find it raining, 
while they- were without an umbrella. 
"Why, Charles!" the lady cried, "it's 
raining." "So I see," said Charles, 
calmly. "Well, what shall we do?" "I 
rather think we shall have to let it rain," 
replied the matter-of-fact husband. Ex- 
cited by the 'disaster, the lady amused 
the bystanders by saying, "Why, Charles, 
how can we, when I have on this light 
dress and bonnet?" — Tit-Bits. 



He Knew His People 

At the end of the first six months of 
his pastorate in Kentucky the Reverend 
Silas Johns had learned the ways of his 
flock so thoroughly that he knew exactly 
how to deal with them. 

One Sunday the collection was de- 
plorably small. The next week he made 
a short and telling speech at the close of 
his sermon. 

"I dont want any man to gib more 
dan his share, bredren," he said, gently 
bending towards the congregation; "but 



Buy advertised goods 



-do not accept substitiities 
404 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




From the Deep, 
Blue Pacific 

AVALONo-TUNA 

California's Fish De Luxe 

A special treat from the clear waters of the Pacific 
Ocean. 

AVALON Brand TUNA is a deep sea fish, and it 
is common knowledge that deep sea fish are the be^ 
in flavor. The deep sea TUNA, found off the coa^ 
of Southern California and packed under the 
AVALON BRAND, has the most delightful flavor 
of them all. 

Open up a can of AVALON Brand TUNA — take 
out the fresh, sweet, pure white tuna meat — take it 
just as it comes from the sanitary package, and make 
it into a salad — serve this salad to your family and 
guests and see if they can tell it from tender brea^ 
of chicken. They simply can't. 

For Savory Dinner Dishes 

—It beats meat in many ways. 

■"It is less expensive and easier to serve. 

—You can prepare it in a hundred different 

ways, either as fish or meat. 
^Order a trial can from your grocer. 

Tuna Receipt Booklet P O ITIT 
Silver Premium List* 111-/ a-/ 

The labels from A VALON Bra fid 
TUNA tins may be exchanged for 
Rogers' guaranteed Silver Premiums. 

Write for our complete list of these 
valuable premiums and our FREE 
Receipt Booklet. 

The Van=Thomas Company 

353 EAST SECOND ST. 
Los Angeles, California 



^Valon 






iJuy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
405 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Practical Books l»r Gifts 



Miss Parloa's New Cook Book 
and Marketing Guide 

The permanent value of this well-known standard work 
cu household management and economics has been 
greatly enhanced by complete revision. 

Net $1.50; carriage paid $1.65 

Easy Meals 

By CAROUNE FRENCH BENTON 

This interesting volume should prove extremely use- 
ful to the housekeeper. It is suited for all emer- 
gencies. 

Net $1.25; carriage paid $1.40 

Living On a Little 

By CAROUNE FRENCH BENTON 

In these days, when the high cost of living is one of the 
chief problems of the housewife, this unique book is 
indeed valuable. 

Net $1.25; carriage paid $1.40 

A Little Cook Book for a Little Girl 

By CAROUNE FRENCH BENTON 

For girls of eight to twelve who are learning to make 
plain or pretty dishes and are discouraged by the con- 
fusing receipts in cook books, this little manual is 
indispensable. 

Cloth, 50c, 



Published 
by 



The Page Company ss Beacon st. 



(Props. DANA ESTES & CO.) 



Boston 



365 



MENUS and 

RECIPES 



BY 



FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

Author of "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book" 




The 

Dinner 

Calendar 



FOR 

1915 

A Necessity for the 
Up-to-date Woman 

Cost Trifling Value Unbounded 

Handsomely printed in colors, with silk 
tasselend cord, boxed and prepaid . . 60c 

Linap leather ooze, with loose leaf device and 
leather hanger, boxed and prepaid . $2.00 

^-^= Write for FREE List of ^r^=^ 
"Low Cost Holiday Su(i|{estions" 

Sully and Kleinteich 3^^^%^^?; 



we must all gib according as we are fa- 
vored and according to what we rightly 
hab. I say rightly hab, bredren," he 
went on, after a short pause, ''because 
we don' want any tainted money in de 
box. Squire Blinks told me dat he 
missed some chickens dis week. Now, if 
any one ob my pore benighted bredren 
has fallen by de way in connections wid 
dose chickens, let him stay his hand from 
de box when it comes to him. 

"Brudder Mose, will you pass de box 
while I watch de signs an' see if dere's 
one in de congregation dat needs me to 
wrastle in prayer for him?" 



After his first lecturing tour in this 
country Matthew Arnold visited old 
Mrs. Procter, the widow of the poet 
Barry Cornwall, and mother of 'Adelaide 
Procter. Mrs. Procter, giving Mr. 
Arnold a cup of tea, asked him, ''And 
what did they say about you in Amer- 
ica?" "Well," said the literary autocrat, 
"they said I was conceited, and they said 
my clothes did not fit me." "Well, now," 
said the old lady, "I think they were mis- 
taken as to the clothes." 



A Hoosier lad of twelve years was in- 
dustriously at work upon a pile of wood 
in his mother's back yard, when he was 
approached by a playmate. "Hello, 
Ben!" said the youngster, "do you get 
anything fer -cuttin' the wood?" "Well, 
I reckon I do," replied Ben. "Ma gives 
me a cent a day fer doin' it." "What you 
goin' to do with yer money ?" "Oh, she's 
savin' it fer me ; and when I get enough, 
she's goin' to get me a new axe." 

Senator Martin of New Jersey tells of 
a farm-hand who philosophizes. One 
morning, when the Senator was wander- 
ing over the farm, he came upon his 
man feeding the chickens. Alexander 
stopped him with : "Good mawnin', suh ! 
I been thinkin' this mawnin', and I made 
up my mind, suh, as Fs lookin* at these 
heah chickens, that they's the usefullest 
animal they is. You c'n eat 'em 'fo' 
they's bo'n, and aftah they's daid !" 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
406 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





HEISEY'S 



GLASSWARE 



ear and sparkling 
p as'1::rystal-pure^water 

M is the lovely water set shown 
M below. It isn't an ornament 
^ that you'll use for a time and 
then discard — it's a practical 
* 'water jug and tumbler" set. 
Moreover, it has that simple, 
crystal-Hke freshness and puritv 
of design and delightful brilli- 
ance that stamps 

Heisey's m Glassware 



as right for every occasion.'' 

Your dealer has Heisey's Dia- 
mond H water sets in this 
design and in many others 
just as attractive. 

If you especially like the de- 
sign shown here and your 
dealer should not have it, we 
will deliver it direct to you 
by Parcel Post, prepaid, at 
the following price: 1 jug 
and */i dozen tumblers, $2. 00; 
1 jug and 1 dozen tumblers, 
$2.75. West of the Miss- 
issippi River add $1.50 to 
cover delivery. 

Write today for "Table Glass and 
How to Use it." See Low many other 
beautiful things for the table and home 
you can buy in Heisey's Diamond H 
Glassware. ^ 

A.'H. Heisey & Co. 

Dept. 56 Newark. Ohio 




Keeps after 
opening 

DELICIOUS 
APPETIZING 
SATISFYING 

— down to the 
last drop 



Choicest red-ripe toma- 
toes, cooked lightly — thus 
retaining the natural flavor 
— and pure spices for deli- 
cate seasoning, produce 
this tempting relish with 
true tomato taste. 

Contains only those ingredients 

Recognized and Endorsed 

by the U. S. Government 

Our Soups, Jams, Jellies, Pre- 
serves, Meats, Canned Fruits 
and Vegetables are of the 
same high quality as Blue 
Label Ketchup. 

Write for our instructive booklet, "Original 
Menus." A postal rmntioning your grocer's 
name and this magazine nil! bring it. 

Curtice Brothers Co. 

Rochester, N. Y. 




Buy advertised goods 



- do not accept substitutes 
407 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Prepara- 
Meak. 



lESSONS IN COOKING ^^ofiS 

^^266 seasonable menus with detailed recipes and full directions for pre- 
paring each meal. Food Economy, Balanced Diet, Menus for all Occa- 
sions, Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette. 480 pp. 
Illustrated. Sent on approval for 5(tc and 50c for 4 months or $2 Cash. 

Yree. 

503 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111. 



Sample Pages Free 

American School of Home Economics, 



AVOID FERMENTATION I 

Learn to Make Delicious Unfermented Bread without 
yeast, baking powder or chemicals; 25 cents brings recipe 
JESSIE L. DUETSCHER. Food Expert, Dept. A.C.. Woodbar7 Heights, N.J. 



Sentiment vs. Sense 

I sent them into the world, 
My stories, my poems, my all ; 

Some came back in the spring-time, 
Some were returned in the fall. 

And still I kept on writing 

With courage undismayed; 
I wrote of heroes without compare, 

And dreamed of love-lorn maids. 

At last I had a change of thought, 

More practical I would be : 
A recipe to the paper I sent, 

And rejoiced in my first fee. 

LiDA Agnese Little. 



When Mr. Peaslee asked for his 
fourth cup of coffee the waitress brought 
it, but remarked, *'You seem to be fond 
of coffee." Mr. Peaslee, nothing abashed, 
smiled upon her benignly. "I he fond of 
coffee," he admitted, placidly. **Ain't 
you quick to notice things ! I'm dretful 
fond of it. If I wa'n't," he concluded 
slowly, *'I don't believe I'd drink so much 
water for the sake of getting a Httle." — 
Youth's Companion. 



The Youngs unexpectedly dropped in 
on the Baileys for dinner, and Mrs. 
Bailey explained privately to little Helen 
that there would not be enough oysters, 
''so you and I will just have some broth 
and say nothing." Little Helen prom- 
ised to remember, but when she discov- 
ered a small oyster in her plate, she could 
not recall any instructions. She dipped 
up the oyster and, holding it well in 
view, she piped out, "Mother, Mother, 
shouldn't Mrs. Young have this ovster 
too?" 



^■131= 



FLAVORING EXTRACTS. 



Leading: European and American chem- 
ists have placed 14 highest awards on 
•ai#ef>'« Flavoring Extrmcts, for 
their purity, strength, and fine flavor. 
Insist upon Sauer's (pronounced Sour's) Flavor- 
ing Extracts, they cost no more than cheap imi- 
tetione. Sold In 10 and 25c. 
9l*e» e^&rywhoro. BOSUPO 

your grocer sends SauBr's 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
408 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






■ V • 










The Food value 
of Bensdorps is 
greater than a 
like quantity of 
meat or flour. 
It's Double Strength 
means 3^ou save 



in amount used. 

STEPHEN LBARTLETT 6 

Importers Boston 



The Can in a 
Yellow Wrapper 



THE IMPROVED 

Wilder Candy 
Thermometer 

l.OO 

A permanent 

wooden handle 

u ^^BS^^^^ prevents 

rieavy ^kI^^ bumed fingers 

Copper 
Plated 




EASILY 
CLEANED 



Cooking 
Heats Stamped 
on the Plate 

Ask any dealer who sells 
thermometers — if he hasn't a 
** Wilder/* write the makers, 

Charles Wilder Company 

TROY, NEW YORK 



Nia 



IT'S EASY TO 

BAKE PERFECT 

CAKES 




p OOD cooks say " Flour welj 
^^ sifted is a cake half baked.4 
Sifting flour repeatedly with a com- 
mon sifter is tiresome, unsanitary, 
wasteful, inconvenient — but, with 
our newly invented 

2-in-l Sifter 

(Patent Pendbg) 
(Tested and approved by Good Housekeeping Institute) 

it is easier to sift flour a dozen times than once v«th the old way. 
Sifter has two glass bowls, each holding 26 oz. of flour and the 
necessary baking powder, etc. Just sift the flour, then turn the 
sifter and re-sift, repeating the sifting as often as necessary. No 
trouble, no waste, little work. Easy 
to clean. Perfectly sanitary. Every 
2-in-l Sifter positively guaranteed. 
An ideal Xmas gift. Circular 
mailed free. If not obtainable at 
your dealer's, sifter will be sent pre- 
paid to any address upon re- 
ceipt of $1.00, or 3 for $2.00- 
Dealers and agents wanted in every 
territory. Write for our proposition. 

Western Hardware 
Mfg. Co. 

858 THIRD STREET 
MILWAUKEE, WIS. 




Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
409 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



mmmmmm 



For 19 conpont (8 mill value) taken from caiiB uf 
Alexander's products and this '"ad" (which hasS 
mill value") or couponfe totaling 60 mills, will send 
our No. 8 Icy-Hot BottV. Offer made to stimulate 
growing deiiiaiul for Alexander's Pure Foods. 



ALEXANDERS 

DOVE BRAND 

NEW ORLEANS 

MOLASSES 



For Qingerbreftd, Bostoa BrowB Bread, home-made oandiei. eto. 
Hae the real old-fashioned plantatiOQ flavor. Absolutely Pure, 
and packed in lanitary sealed cans free from solder or acid. 
ORDER TODAY, Address: Alexander Molasses CompanT, Cin> 

-, cinnati. Warehouses: Chicago, St. Louis, Los An. 

geles, Seattle, Buffalo. Philadelphia. 

' ASK GROCER TO ORDER THROUGH 
NEAREST WAREHOUSE 
Alexander's Fancy Cane Syrup 
for Griddle Cakes 






^/cr 



^ 

UH 



Is in cookinp: it to exactly the right temperature. 
You can do this with a 

Candy 
Thermometer 

ana be sure of always gettinggood results. Registers 

up to 350 degrees. Finished in copper, accurate 

and durable. 

We want every candy maker to have a copy of our book 
of Favorite Candy Recipes and will mail it to everyone 
who writes for it enclosing a 2-cent stamp. 

Most dealers sell Taylor Candy Thermometers. GO 
to your dealer first. If he does not have them, or 
will not order for you, send us his name and ad- 
dress with $1.00 and we will send you one. When 
ordering give the number "5908." 

^y/or Instrument Companus 
15 Hague St., Rochester, N.Y. 

There's a Tycos Thermometer for Every Purpose 




DESIB: 



CHRISTMAS DINNERS 

Will You Help 

THE 

SALVATION 

ARMY 

LASSIES 

Throughout the 

United States to 

supply 

300,000 

Poor People 

with 

CHRISTMAS 

DINNERS. 

Srnd Doiiatiuiis to 
COMMANDER 

MISS BOOTH 

118 W. 14th Street, New York City 

Western Dept.. Commissioner Estill, 108 N.Dearborn St., Chicaf* 




Autnmattr CIjatnatttrI| 




A Sewing Machine vi'ith four drawers automatic lift chain 
of steel 'Certified for 10 years." And will last your life 
time. Complete with all accessories. 

Others charge $75 to $80— Our price $45 

30 DAYS FREE TRIAL 

Send your name and references 
WE DELIVER FREE. And if you are pleased at the end 
of 80 days, pay us for machine. If not, we cheerfully 
withdraw the machine at our expense. 

F. C. HENDERSON CO. ^fsTR^B^E^/o^gl 

480 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. 



We have issued a 16-page 

Premium List 

SEND A POSTAL FOR ONE 

If you can obtain among your friends 
a few subscriptions to American 
Cookery and so secure for your- 
self, without cost, some of the 
best and most use(ul cooking 
utensils 

OR 

Ir you wish to purchase for cash the 
latest and most unique cooking 
novelties. 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. 

Boston, Massachusetts 



iiuy advertised Goods 



— do not accept suDstitutes 
410 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





jr. J of the 



« 



cT 






^ The Orient and the 
Occident join in their 
praise of the 



White House Brand 
Coffee and Teas 




Their superior excellence compels praise from every user every^ 
where. The goodness of White House Tea is not lost before it 
reaches you, but is kept safe in the y^-lh. and V2-lb. all-tin can; 
Orange Pekoe, Formosa Oolong, etc. White House Coffee b in 
1 -lb., 2-lb., 3-lb. all«tin cans, never in bulk. It pays to ask for the 
White House Brand. Try it and know why. Write for Booklets 

DWINELL- WRIGHT CO., BOSTON AND CHICAGO 



_To 



convince you 



that you can make a truly remark- 
able improvement in the aroma, 
flavor and color of your soups, 
gravies and sauces, by using 



^ifchen^ou(fiiet 



[(Reg. U. S. Pat. Off.) 

we want to send you a 

FREE SAMPLE BOTTLE 

with our book of tested recipes. 
Send for it now. You will save 
time, trouble and get results in 
cooking you have never gotten 
before. Name your grocer and 
send today. 

THE PALISADE MFG. CO. 

353 Clinton Ave., West Hoboken, N. J 




Holstein Cows' Milk 
Is Li^ht Colored 

A good reason exists for the light color of Holstein Cows' 
Milk. It is fuund in tlie fine emulsification of the fat 
globules which are well distributed throughout the mass of 
the milk. The fineness of these globules prevents them from 
rising quickly and showing as cream. 

But it is largely due to this fineness of the fat globules tliat 
Holstein Cows' Milk is easy to assimilate. Mothers' milk is 
characterized in this way and Holstein Cows' Milk is the 
closest substitute for it. 

The properties which make Holstein Cows' Milk an almost 
perfect substitute for mothers' milk recommend it for 
gener tl household consumption. The food value of Holstein 
Cows' Milk is particularly high. A glass of it between meals 
is satisfying and refreshing. With bread or crackers it 
makes a wholesome lunch. It is good to form the custom of 
drinking Holstein Cows' Milk and using it in your cooking 
for its food value. , 

Will you not investigate the value of these black-and-white 
cows? The booklet, "The Story of Holstein Milk," will 
interest you for many reasons. 




THE HOLSTEIN-FR!ESIAN ASSOCIATION OF AMERICA 

3-W American Bld^.. Brattleboro, Vermont 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
411 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Exquisite Desserts 

and 

Delicious 
Ice Cream 

Made With 

Junket Tablets 

Your grocer or druggist sells them 
or we mail postpaid ten tablets to 
make ten quarts for 10 cents and 
give you the charming brochure 
"Junket Dainties" free. 

CHR. HANSEN'S 
LABORATORY 



Box 2507. 



Little Falls, N. Y. 



Buy Your Mustard 
From Headquarters 

We know our product from beginning to end. 
Our guarantee of puritv means something be- 
cause it is based upon our first-hand knowledge 
of our goods. 

We are the only mustard packers in New England who 
buy their seed whole and do their own grinding. We 
control every detail of the making: from the time the seed 
enters our mills until it goes out in the yellow labelled 
cans of mustard flour that careful housekeepers have 
been buying for nearly a century. 




Almost every grocer 
sells it in % and J^-lb. 
cans at 10c. and 20c. 
Write for our book of 
receipts ; you will be de- 
lighted with it. 

Stlckney & Poor's 
Other Products are: 
Pepper, Cinnamon, 
Cloves. Ginger, Mace, 
Pimento, Sage, Savory, 
Marjoram. Celery Salt, 
Curry Powder, Paprika, 
Tapioca, Nutmeg, Cassia, 
Allspice, Whole Mixed 
Spice. Pastrj- Spice, Tur- 
meric, Thyme. Soda, 
Cream of Tartar, Rice 
Flour, Potato Flour, Sau- 
sage Seasoning. Poultry 
Seasoning, Onion Sea- 
soning and Flavor: !!<: Extracts. 



STICKNEY & POOR SPICE CO. 

184 State St., Boston 
^ ^ THE NATIONAL ^ ^ 
• • MUSTARD POT • • 



Send lO 




and we will send you one of the handicat 
kitchen Lelps you ever saw— the 

Nesco Pot and Pan Scraper 

takes out the burnt and sticky spots — reaches all 
comers — fits all curves. We will also mail you ▼ 

MRS. RORER'S BOOK FPFF 

for Housewive. and Brides T l\-I--l-« 

Tells how to make dainty lunches from left-overs" and 
how to make delicious dishes from cheap cuts of meat — 
menus and recipes. Send for this book, free. 
NATIONAL ENAMELING & STAMPING CO. 
'^ Adv. Dent. ' Milwaukee. Wii. 



Royal Granite Enameled Ware 



These trade 

GLU 

Kidney and Liver 

and His 
Rich in 

FAR 




ery package 

lET FOR 
DIABETICS 



leomatisni, Obesity 

Acid 

eading grocer* 

.Y..I.S.A. 



SONG POEMS WANTED ,.... .„„ .. 

'ansre for publications immediately. Write today. 
Dntfdale Co.. Studio 225 Washlndton. D. C 



We will compose 
music to your 
T e r s e I and ar- 



^^^■^Automatic On ■Hand Doror Ess Beat- 
T er. Cream Whip. MayonoalM Mixar. 




_. Whip, _ 

CompooDd Potato Masher. 2 in I. »..•. 

half the labor, Zis Zma Mixi&c Spoon. 

Perfect Rrs Boiler and Swrer, 

LA BO a iSXviNQ TOOLS oi 

MERIT. Any one aent poetpaSd foi 
26c: or. better yet, foraSl bill wt 
will send this complete act po«t- 

¥ald, together with one of oar Flexible Cake 
amen and Cbopplns Knife. FREE. W« 
guarantee each to satisfy. A. & J. MFG. CO^. M 
Water St.. Binghamton. N. Y. We want AN AGENl 
in this County. Exclasiye territory on gnaranteed aales 



A NOVELTY That 
Does Efficient Work 




AN 

EGG 
SLICER 

Saves 
Time and Eggs 



Does the work quicker and better than it can 

be done in any other way. 
One will be sent postpaid to any present sub- 
scriber as a premium for securing and sendmg 
us one ( 1 ) new yearly subscription at $ 1 .00. 
Cash price 70 cents each. 
The Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co. 
BOSTON, MASS. 

>>/)(/ for our I'll ml inn I.if^t 



Buy advertised goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
412 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



DAINTY 

EVEN SLICES 

QUlCiaY AND ECONOHICAUT 



BREAD 
SLICER 




Slices fresh bread as easily as uiu. 

From the inojt aei'.cate tea sandwich to 
the more enbetantial requirementi of the 
breakfast table. 

M»de f« fcor different thjeknesse? of sixes: 1-2 raeh. 
"-■ inch. 1-4 inch, IS iach. So. 1192, two in ooe f'rf 
both 1-2 »al 3-^ inch slices. >'o. n9i for y.ot i 
1-4 anil-* inch rfces. Spnify Oaekmae dttrnd. 

Price 411.00 at yonr dealer or de- 

ivered to any part of the Uriite<i 
States poet 1 aid. 
I Vitefnl f'hrixtmax PrfH^nt 

HAMBLIN & RUSSELL 
MFG. CO. 
26 Water Street, Worcester. Mav 



The quick method of making bread 
through the use of 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

is the easiest way and gives best 
results. Write for our new recipe 
book that tells just how to do it. 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 




MAGIC COVER 

Marc Cover for Pastry Board and Rolling Pin: chemically 
treated and hygienic: recommended by leading teacher* ci 
cooldng. By mail, 60c. 

B. F. MACY 

Hm%&i of F. A. WALKER & CO., the Oldest Kitchen Store In let Eofiu^ 
410 Boylston Street. Boston. Mas«. 



Enjoy the dainty dishes 



this popular green 
corn delicacy provide; 




,?^v 



All the delicately flav- 
ored and nourishing por- 
tion of an extra choice variety 
of green sweet corn goes into Kornlet. It 
the part inside the hull, boiled down. 
Kornlet is concentrated nourishment. You 
can't go hungry if there's Kornlet in the house 
with milk, water, bread ar.d a f.re to cook with. 
Kornlet makes many appetizing' di<Les, as told in our 
Free Recipe Book 

A few (if the Kornlet i>opular dishes are — Komi 
Souj.. Waffles. Fritters. < ro<iuettes. Rarebit, Fud- 
din^. Omelet aud Au iiratln. 
Order of your grocer 
Most high class grocers handle 
Kornlet. If yonrs doesn't, and 
you can't secure it from 5ou;e 
other grof-er. send his name ami 
2b cents in stamps for full size 
can. prepaid, parcel post. 
Trial can, parcel post, preprtid 

The Haserot Canneries 



Company 
413 HnroB Road, Cleyeland, Ohio 



Kornlet 

Recipe 
Book 



XMAS GIFT SUPERB 

Moth- 
Proof 




How happy and grateful the woman 

or gill who becomes the proud poeeessor c: 

Piedmont Southern Red Cedar Cheat: It ;- 

zif t that every womanly heart Songs for. Ex . 
beaaf.inl. D'ainti'y frazrant.W'ondert'uLy u« 
economica'.. A Piedmont protects ftirn 
from moths, mice, dust and datnp 

on 1.5 dayj' ireetral- I' :■::: :: ■;. :2.;::- 
prepaid-' Wr.:e for '}4-; .. . r . ..:, . I ^;; .. 



/ 


10ODe««« 


-■ „ ^ 


Prs.:::ca::v 


-..-.. ■— 


evir.ar.'g 


:u. ar.a 




iroolensa 


idp7>>>n^< 


Arr Piedr 


-.or.: - ^ i 




^-i .• ■ 



Pieilmofflt ReJ Ce^r Chut Cc 



Dept. 30. Sutesvillc. N. C. 




FOR THE WOMAN WHO WANTS GOOD jTHINGS 



LADD MIXERS 

No. 1, I qt. — No. 2, 2 qt3. — especially 
made, clear glass urns, fiuted sides. LADD 
BEATERS insert into and removefromsame: 
only ones thus made. We warrant they 
save eggs. Positively Best and Most 
Beautiful Made. By Parcel Post : 
No. 1, $1 75. East of Rocky Mt. States. 
No. I . $2.00, Rockv .Mt. States and West 
No. 2, $2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States 
No. 2, $2.75, Rocky Mt. States and West 



••SATURN" 

CLOTHESUNE REEL 

A round Steel Ball — 
dust proof, nickel plated — 
warranted 40 ft. line, tested to 
ISOlbs. — takes present clothes- 
pin. Use out -door or in- 
door. Hangs 2Lny where. Two 
spreading rings. Positively the 
best made at any price. Nickeled, by parcel f>ost 50 
cents. Nickeled and polished, by parcel post 65 cents. 




New — Ready just now. 



Every woman wants these. 



Please write. 



UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway, New York 



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Having any Difficulties in Cake Making, and also to the Progressive Ones 

who want to Practice Our Scientific Method and 

Thereby have Better Cakes. 



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Our scientific method is to bake all cakes in ungreased moulds and let them stick, and loosen 
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Our Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right, being so practical 
and comprehensive that, no matter what the *'luck" has been in the past, success will be assured 
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\ 416 



Menus for Receptions and Teas 



I 

Cress Sandwiches 

Small Souvaroff 

Candied Grapefruit Peel 

White Grapes Glace 

Tea 

Cocoa. Whipped Cream 



II 

Assorted Sandwiches 

Assorted Cakes (small) 

Ginger Chips. Salted Xuts. Xuts Glace 

Tea Coffee 

III 

Cheese-and-Xut Sandwiches 

Cracker-and-Cheese Canapes 

Tiny Cream Cakes, fondant dipped 

Tea, with Sliced Oranges and 

Candied Cherries 

IV 

(Small Tea) 

English Muffins Toasted 

Cress Sandwiches 

Small Souvaroff 

Tea, with Orange Slices and 

Candied Pineapple 



V 



Orange Bread-and-Marmalade Sandwiches 

Cheese-and-Cress Sandwiches 

Macaroons, Lady Fingers 

Small Souvaroff 

Cocoa, with Marshmallows 

Tea with Mint Cubes 



American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



JANUARY, 1915 



No. 6 



The Selection of Furniture for the Small Reception 

Room 

By Jessamine Chapman Williams 



TWO mistakes are frequently 
made in furnishing the small 
reception-room. It is often fur- 
nished as a large drawing-room in a 
mansion might be, — too formal and dig- 
nified to be in keeping with the size of 
the room or house, or it is too often 
characterless, — its purpose being for- 
gotten. 

There are three forms or ideas used 
to-day in the planning of a reception- 
room. It may be a part of the hall — the 
familiar type of reception-hall ; it may 
be the conventional parlor which still 
exists in many houses ; or it may be a 
reception-room proper. 

Nothing will help to solve the problem 
of furniture for the small reception- 
room so well — as to keep in mind its 
function or purpose and then to avoid 
everything that does not aid in this or 
act in harmony with it. 

The true purpose of the reception- 
room is to receive guests, — callers of all 
kinds and descriptions — and guests who 
are invited for some special occasion. 
This room is a gathering place to serve 
only until the real entertainment is pro- 
vided. It is a room that is not used for 
any long space of time. It is simply for 
the receiving of people, thus avoiding in- 
trusion upon the family in their privacy, 
or disturbing all or requiring the atten- 
tion of all when perhaps only one is 
sought. A small room will serve this 
purpose, thus avoiding the crowding of 
the family in a small living space and 



lessening their comforts for the sake ol 
the caller or for guests of special occa- 
sions. The function of the home would 
be lost sight of, if a large reception-room 
were planned for the average-size house. 
Since it is a place to receive guests, it 
must possess a welcoming atmosphere, 
a bright and cheery appearance. The 
chief problem to solve is how to avoid 
the usual stiffness, — the cold and char- 
acterless look that the room, as a rule, 
possesses. Forget the name "parlor" 




KING GEORGE ARM CHAIR 



427 



428 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and the sombre significance it has gained 
through the horse-hair parlor suite, wax 
flowers, and the other rehcs of its an- 
cestor, the New England parlor of a 
hundred years ago, and express in its 
decoration and furniture the manner in 
which you greet your friends, or the 
manner in which you enjoy being re- 
ceived yourself in other homes. 

The caller often spends the time, while 
waiting to be received, in gazing at the 
walls or rug, absent-mindedly tracing 
out some intricate pattern in wall deco- 
ration or in the design of the rug. It 
would be better to give the caller a 
beautiful picture to study, hung on a 
quiet plain background of wall space. 

If the room is shut off from the hall 
and the remainder of the house, as the 
true reception-room should be, a more 
independent treatment in its furnishing 
can be made. 



If it is possible to carry out the 
"period" idea in decoration and furni- 
ture, it is in this room above all others 
that the effect is most charming, pro- 
vided it is in harmony with the rest of 
the house. "Period furniture" if rightly 
used is eminently fitted for the modern 
small reception-room. 

If this plan is not expedient, the room 
may be furnished in excellent taste and 
made to fit its purpose by using miscel- 
laneous types of furniture, harmonizing 
with the walls, wood work and floor 
treatment. 

The floor is the foundation of one's 
color-scheme, and if a bad start is made 
here, it is hard to hold harmony of 
color for the room. The lighting of the 
room, the sunshine and shadow effects 
influence the brightness of color decora- 
tion. 

It is well to remember that all back- 




WILLIAM AND MARY SETTLE 



FURNITURE FOR SMALL RECEPTION ROOMS 



429 



grounds or settings must be subdued 
in color and design, if one wishes the 
figures in that setting to show off to the 
best advantage. Hence, the floors and 
walls of a room, if the pictures, orna- 
ments, and furniture are to be prominent 
features, should be less vivid in color 
and design than they. 

There is nothing more satisfactory for 
the walls than the quiet, dignified tones 
of grey, and, if a touch of color is 
wanted, introduce it in a simply designed 
frieze. The tints and shades of red or 
blue are particularly pleasing, if ma- 
hogany furniture is used. A deep cream 
or a buff with quite a bit of life in it 
harmonizes best with fumed oak, and 
the brown and tan wicker furniture. 
With the grey and mahogany color- 
scheme the wood work is best in white 
or light cream, with doors of mahogany, 
perhaps. The fireplace of colonial type 
in white also harmonizes with this 
scheme. A mirror over or set in the 



mantle is always in good taste in the 
colonial type of fireplace. 

In ''Period" furniture the styles that 
are especially suited lor this room are 
the Adam, Chippendale, Heppelwhite, 
Sheraton, and certain Colonial types — 
not all. The Queen Ann, William and 
Mary, and Flanders styles are suitable 
in some forms, but they are far more 
difficult to obtain, — a good reason for 
the selection, perhaps, giving always an 
assurance of the independence of the 
selector. 

Too dignified and formal types must 
be avoided in this small room, yet they 
are the sort for the large drawing-room 
of a mansion. For example, the heavily- 
carved Italian Renaissance, Elizabeth- 
ean, or Jacobean styles have a distinct 
place in the latter type of room, but are 
almost absurd for the former. A mis- 
take equally bad would be choosing 
Louis XV. style with all its gilt, its deli- 
cate upholstery, its decorative festoons 




WILLIAM AND MARY CHAIRS 



430 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and garlands, and its frail construction. 
The true mission type with its massive- 
ness and severity of line would be the 
opposite extreme and equally inap- 
propriate. 

The average home maker must resort 
usually to the types of furniture found 
in our ordinary furniture stores, which 
are modified forms of the real old, 
mixed up promiscuously with modern 
types. To select from the conglomera- 
tion requires much care. 

Avoid the usual parlor suite. It is 
too monotonous and characterless and 
leaves places for nothing else in the 
room. With the background in quiet 
tones, plain or of simple design, make 
the cheer of the room come from the 
lighting, from the window seat and its 
upholstery and cushions, from the hang- 
ings and pictures and plants. A two- 
toned color-harmony or complimentary 
colors lend cheer, while one-tone is al- 
most too subdued and monotonous to 
give the welcoming air it should. 

Avoid rocking chairs. They are not 
suited to the purpose of the room. 
One's callers do not come to pay a visit, 
and other guests will soon be taken to 
the living rooms of the house. They 



occupy too much space also. Avoid the 
hall-chair type with its high, straight 
back and small seat, for the caller must 
be made comfortable while seated. The 
arm chair of light weight is desirable. 
The \\'indsor type, also, with its many 
slender spokes, and curved back, is one 
that shows both lightness and ease. A 
few pieces of upholstered furniture of 
good design or of suitable "Period" add 
color, and a feeling of comfortableness. 

An important consideration in selec- 
tion is the question of weight. How 
one scofifs at the spindle-legged, gilt and 
brocaded chair, far too frail to sit upon, 
that had a day in parlors a while ago. 
A heavy, mission Morris Chair of to-day 
is often seen as a substitute, but it 
is equally inappropriate. Mahogany fur- 
niture of average weight is admirably 
suited in quality and appearance for this 
room. Modified forms of Colonial fur- 
niture are suitable in line and dignity, 
yet they lack character to some extent, 
because they are neither one thing nor 
the other. 

In selecting a table for this room, 
avoid the library or desk type. A lighter, 
easily-moved table, yet not one so small 
and light that it will hold nothing but a 




GATE-LEG TABLE 



FURNITURE FOR SMALL RECEPTION ROOMS 



431 



card tray or be easily tipped over at a 
reception when the room is full of 
guests. The pie-crust table or drop-leaf 
Colonial type or the Sheraton tables with 
drop leaves and one small drawer are all 
in good form. 

Plants add much to the cheer of a 
room of any kind, but they, too, must be 
carefully selected. Palms are too stiff 
and dignified for the small reception- 
room and occupy too much space. They 
need classic pedestals, large spaces, to 
produce the effect desired. Small plants 
in a deep window sill, out of the way, 
or a fine, not too spreading, fern on a 
taboret would be in keeping with the 
character of the room. 

It is impossible to state definitely just 
what pieces of furniture to select, just 
what color-scheme to use, what kind of 
rugs, pictures and ornaments to choose 
for such a room. These considerations 
are closely involved with the general 
size and plan of the house, the plan of 
the room, its lighting, the decoration and 
furnishing of the whole house and the 
means the home maker has at her dis- 
posal. 

The following plan of decoration and 
furnishing is only given as an illustra- 
tion of what points must be thought of 
and worked out by the furnisher, what 
pieces of furniture are suitable for al- 
most any small reception-room that is 
not a part of the hall, and what furnish- 
ing will give a welcoming and cheerful 
appearance sufficiently dignified yet not 
stiff and cold. 

Color-scheme — Grey and red, (pinks, 
to normal, greyed in tone). Wall- 
space — light grey — simple stenciled 
frieze in greyed tints of red (pinks). 

Wood-work — White or light cream, 
doors mahogany. 

Fireplace — Colonial — in white or 
cream ; red brick. 

Floor — Light, hard oak. 

Rug — Greyed, red-plain center. Simple 
border in tones of the same color, or 
several small Oriental rugs in reds and 
greys. 




PIE-CRUST TABLE 

Window hangings — Fine white scrim 
for inner curtains. Greyed red silk 
over-hangings. 

Window seat — Grey velour uphol- 
stery. Cushions — Grey, with pink de- 
sign. 

Plants — Red geraniums on the deep 
window sills. Fin-leaf fern on taboret. 

Pictures — Gilt frames — some with 
mahogany. 

Furniture — Mahogany, William and 
Mary settle, arm chair and straight 
chair (see illustration). 

Gate-leg table — light — with turned 
legs — one small drawer. 

Guilford arm chair. 




SHERATON TABLE 



432 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Chippendale straight chair. 

Small writing table (if desired), 
Queen Anne style. 

Another Selection in Style. 

Sheraton tete and two chairs (arm 
and straight). 

Pie-crust table. 

King George arm chair upholstered in 
dark red. 

Curio cabinet — Sheraton. 

Sheraton writing table. 

The details, the touches in ornamenta- 
tion have as much influence in produc- 
ing effects as the few simple pieces of 
furniture. And these are the very things 
that can not be chosen until the whole 
plan of the house, room, and all the con- 
ditions are known. Only a few general 
rules or cautions can be given. There 
must never be a crowded appearance in 
furniture or an over-abundance of orna- 
ments. This applies especially to a 



small reception-room. Do not try to fur- 
nish or ornament the room with books. 
Neither guests nor hostess will use them 
in this room. Avoid the very large or- 
naments — small vases, busts, and large 
brass piecqs — they tend to make the 
room look smaller and show lack of 
proportion. Xtvy small ornaments give a 
feeling of "knick-knacks" and take away 
dignity from the room. 

There is no room in the house that is 
more difficult to furnish properly. One 
reason for this is that it is furnished 
for the guest, — the stranger, — not for 
one's self, or family, — to be used for 
short periods of time, not for constant 
occupancy. This gives a feeling of un- 
certainty in efforts to please all who 
enter, and yet to express one's self as 
well, in its furnishings. If its purpose be 
kept ever in mind, some of the difficul- 
ties, at least, will be solved. 




TABLE LAID FOR RECEPTION 
Tea, Chocolate, Assorted Sandwiches, Little Cakes, White Grapes, Glace, Nut Meats, Glace. 



The Evolution of Sarah 



By Barbara Erwin 



SARAH was an enthusiast, as her 
family discovered before she was 
out of short dresses. At fifteen 
she joined a "Band of Mercy," whose 
members made a vow to struggle against 
all cruelty to animals. She brought 
home lame dogs and sick cats, until the 
Pearson premises overflowed with 
quadrupeds and her father, a man of 
angelic temper, actually swore, when, 
for the third time, he found a mangy, 
blind kitten in one of his shoes. At 
length, Sarah came to the point where 
she refused beefsteak and chicken, be- 
cause she could not bear to think that 
they had been killed. She grew anemic, 
"pale as a tallow candle," the cook said, 
and Mrs. Pearson was obliged to assert 
her authority. In a night-time the cats 
and dogs disappeared, and Sarah was 
sent to the sea-side to recuperate and 
forget. 

She came back full of her natural 
vigor, and contrived, within a fortnight, 
to organize a dancing-class. Lessons 
were on Saturday, but the class practiced 
interminably, before school, after school, 
and, when it was possible, in the eve- 
ning. Sarah danced to her meals, and 
dusted the parlor at a waltz tempo, and 
beat time in her sleep. She wore out 
three pairs of shoes in quick succession, 
and, finally, one day, danced off the front 
steps and sprained her ankle. After 
came a Sunday-school class ; then chick- 
ens (two hens and a hybrid rooster) ; 
then slum-work, Delsarte and other fads, 
at the rate of one a month, until, finally, 
Sarah went to college. 

The day after she left, her mother, 
awaking to an unearthly calm and an 
orderly house, breathed a sigh of relief. 
But the sigh soon changed its nature, 
and she began to wonder why the time 
between September and Christmas had 
not, in other years, passed so slowly. 



"Sarah's such fun," her father said. 
"How I do miss the dear child and her 
freaks." 

"I wonder what she's up to now. 
Probably fertilizing the campus with 
coffee-grounds." This was her brother's 
contribution, but her mother's eyes filled 
with tears. 

"I wish we'd been more sympathetic," 
she said. Then, because she was a very 
sensible person, she laughed, whisked 
her eyes dry, and went to make a gor- 
geous fruit-cake to send to Sarah. 

The weeks and months passed, as 
weeks and months have a habit of doing, 
and one bright June day, Sarah gradu- 
ated and came home. "To stay for a 
while, I hope," her father said. 

Rather remarkably, aside from her 
own father and brother, Sarah's enthu- 
siasms had never included man, of any 
shape, sort, or description. 

"What will you do next ?" her brother 
asked her at the breakfast table the 
morning after her arrival. 

She glanced about her with bright 
eyes. "Oh, it's good to be home," she 
sighed. "I shall just stay here and help 
mother." 

Her mother gave a little start and 
tried not to appear apprehensive. "Oh, 
you mustn't tie yourself down to the 
drudgery of house- work, dear. I really 
need very little help." 

"Is it drudgery?" asked Sarah, and 
she began to ponder, with an absent look 
in her eyes. Her mother remembered, 
rather uncomfortably, times in the past, 
when she had noticed that same look. 

But for a few days afifairs ran 
smoothly enough. Sarah was engaged 
in inaugurating an impossibly enormous 
correspondence with her numerous col- 
lege friends, to each of whom she had 
promised to write twice a week. Then 
letter-writing began to pall, and she, to 



433 



434 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



look about her, seeking other outlets for 
her energies. One morning her mother 
came into her room and found her ab- 
sorbed in a pamphlet. Mrs. Pearson 
groaned inwardly and resigned herself 
to the worst. Pamphlets had always 
been the undoing of Sarah. 

"Oh, mother," she cried, "you must 
read this. It's all about house-work and 
how it ought to be made lighter, and all 
the improved methods. See — this is a 
fireless cooker and electric washing ma- 
chine and irons and a dish-w^asher and 
automiatic egg-beater." 

*' Automatic what — " gasped Mrs. 
Pearson. 

"Egg-beater. All you have to do is to 
insert the eggs, it cracks and beats them 
and throws the shells away." 

"Oh, Sarah," Mrs. Pearson felt her- 
self quite helpless beneath this astonish- 
ing deluge of facts. 

"Really, mother, you ought to have 
some of these things. It would make 
house-keeping so much easier. And you 
could join a club and — everything." 

"But I already belong to the Friday 
Club. I don't want to join another," her 
mother weakly protested. 

"And it brings house-work up to date, 
like any business. I think it's splendid. 
Do let us buy some of them." 

"Well, we'll see." 

But Sarah would not let the matter 
rest there; good-naturedly she stuck to 
her point; she wrote to various firms 
that manufactured the articles she cov- 
eted, so that finally an electric washing- 
machine, dish-washer, and oven were in- 
stalled, to be left, as the advertisements 
promised, for thirty days' trial. 

"Then, if you don't like them, they'll 
take them away," Sarah explained, "but 
I'm sure you will." 

"I may, but I'm afraid Mary won't." 

Mary was their one servant, an Irish 
woman, and a privileged character, hav- 
ing lived with the family for ten years. 
"But she'll have to learn sometime. 
Every kitchen will have these things in 
the future." Sarah was quite uncon- 



scious of quoting. 

"I suppose so," Mrs. Pearson replied 
dubiously. 

For a day the machines ran splen- 
didly ; even Mr. Pearson became inter- 
ested, and Jim declared the washing- 
machine "a bird." On the third day, 
however, Mary came to her mistress, 
and, with tears in her eyes, gave up her 
place. 

"I can't w^ork any longer with thim 
divil machines," she declared, and upon 
this statement she stood firm; protests, 
persuasions, and promises could not 
move her. She only w^iped her eyes 
with the corner of her apron and asked 
to be allow^ed to depart in peace. 

"Let her go, mother," Sarah advised 
excitedly. "And while she is gone you 
may hire me. I'll run those satanic ma- 
chines myself and make a success of it, 
too." 

"Good gracious, Sarah, you'll never be 
able to do it." 

"Yes, I will. Do let me just try. You 
can discharge me whenever you like." 

"Very well," there was a note of 
laughter in Mrs. Pearson's voice. To 
herself she said, "We'll live through it, 
I suppose, and it will be good for Sarah 
— very good." 

Mary left at noon the next day, and 
that afternoon Sarah entered her king- 
dom. 

"The queen is dead. Long live the 
queen," her brother cried, when, with 
very red cheeks, she announced that din- 
ner was served. 

The chops were a little burned and 
the coffee queer, but Sarah's family, as 
the meal progressed, felt themselves 
pleasantly sur])rised. It was distinctly 
eatable. 

"This is fine, Sal. Sorry I have to be 
on the road for the next two weeks," 
her brother remarked. 

"Oh, Jim, that's mean of you." 

"No, — honest. Cross my heart. The 
office doesn't know a thing about our 
new cook, and they gave me my orders." 

Later Sarah thrust her head into the 



THE EVOLUTION OF SARAH 



435 



room where Jim sat reading and smok- 
ing. ''Jim, do come and look at this 
dish-washer. It's stuck. And all the 
plates right in it." 

After a struggle of ten minutes, Jim 
was able to start the machine, and the 
plates began to appear. Then he spent 
ten more minutes explaining the nature 
of the thing to Sarah, who was not of a 
mechanical turn of mind. He explained 
it clearly, carefully and concisely, for, in 
the realm of machinery, Mr. Pearson 
was helpless as a baby, and Sarah would 
have to depend on her own ingenuity 
while her brother was away. 

Monday morning he departed. Mon- 
day was wash-day. Sarah rose early 
and found it dark and cold ; she felt very 
sleepy, and, it must be confessed, cross. 
She sorted the clothes, and gave her 
family coffee and toast for breakfast. 

"I'll clear up these dishes,'' her 
mother said. "You turn your attention 
entirely to the 'osculater.' " 

That was what the man who brought 
the washing-machine had called the 
swinging metal tub. Sarah filled this 
tub with hot water and put in soap, re- 
ferring frequently to the printed direc- 
tions, and added the clothes. Then, 
rather timorously, she turned on the 
switch that set the machine in motion. 
It made a horrible noise, she thought. 
The whole basement was filled with a 
terrific clatter and roar. The clothes 
were to be left in the tub twelve min- 
utes ; after fourteen minutes she decided 
they must be clean and pushed back the 
lever of the switch. The noise, if pos- 
sible, grew louder, and the "osculator" 
continued to oscillate. Sarah pushed 
the lever the other way, then, desper- 
ately, tried all the levers on the machine, 
one after the other. The speed and the 
noise only increased. 

"I can't stop it," she shouted to her 
mother, who came half way down the 
stairs and stood aghast at the sounds 
from below. 

"I'll phone Mrs. Fairbank," her 
mother called, "she has one," and she 



disappeared. In a few minutes she came 
back. "Cheer up, Sarah," she shrieked 
above . the turmoil, "Mrs. Washburn's 
going to send over her son. He's an 
electrical engineer, home for his vaca- 
tion." 

The Fairbanks had moved in next door 
while Sarah was away at college, and 
she had never met them. But that fact 
did not trouble her now. Her cheeks 
were scarlet, her hair awry, and she was 
attired in a voluminous blue apron with 
the sleeves rolled far up away from her 
slender arms. Glancing at the stairs that 
descended from the upper regions, she 
gave a sigh of relief when Mrs. Pear- 
son's skirts appeared, accompanied by a 
pair of masculine legs. 

"I can't stop it," she shouted, even be- 
fore she could see their faces. 

Young Mr. Fairbank's countenance 
wore a look-of due concern. He put his 
finger on a certain place on that ma- 
chine, and, at once, the noise was stilled ; 
the ensuing silence seemed by contrast 
almost uncanny. 

The young man smiled a little, he had 
a whimsical smile, but he was very quiet 
and efticient. He told her what he had 
done, and, rolling up his sleeves, helped 
her to take out the clean clothes. Then 
ne stayed while she did the next two 
tubs full, to see that everything ran in 
])erfect order. He also manipulated va- 
rious parts, so that the fearful racket 
was diminished until it became a whir- 
ring hum. 

"I'm ever so much obliged," Sarah 
told him before he departed. "It's per- 
fectl\' simple, isn't it, — when you know 
how ?" 

At noon the washing was almost fin- 
ished; there were only three tubs full of 
clothes left. Sarah rested a little after 
lunch and then went back to the laundry. 
But this time, the washing-machine, in- 
stead of setting up an unholy clatter, re- 
mained stubbornly silent. She worked 
over it, but could not make it budge. 
Then she decided to hang up the clothes 
that she had finished and let the rest go 



436 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



until after her father came home. She 
felt ashamed to appeal to the neighbors 
again. But while she was in the back- 
yard, her mouth full of clothes-pins, 
Mrs. Fairbank's electrical engineering 
son came and leaned over the fence. 
"How's she running?" he called. 

Sarah removed the clothes-pins. *'She 
isn't," was her sententious answer. 

So the electrical engineer leaped the 
fence with his long legs and came to 
start the machine. He stayed this time 
until the washing was finished. 

*'Next Monday I shall know how per- 
fectly," Sarah said. 

''Sure," he agreed, and carried into 
the yard her last basketful of clean, wet 
garments. 

Sarah was tired that night, very tired, 
and she wondered how much more tired 
she would have been if she had done her 
day's work without the labor-saving de- 
vices. ''They're a responsibility," she 
confessed to herself, and felt a tiny stab 
of compunction when she remembered 
the departed Mary. 

On the next day the electric oven fell 
to pieces, literally fell to pieces, while 
she was in the act of inserting into it a 
somewhat wobbly apple-pie. The agent, 
extolling its merits, had explained how 
simple a feat it was to set up the oven 
and take it down again. Sarah put her 
pie to one side, and, picking up the shin- 
ing metal plates, adjusted them this way 
and that, her pretty forehead drawn into 
an anxious frown. She got out a sheet 
of directions and read them sedulously, 
peering now and then at the clock, 
whose short hand was ominously near 
the figure five. Then voices floated to 
her from the dining-room. 

"You might like it. Sarah does," her 
mother was saying, as she and Mrs. 
Fairbank, arrayed for afternoon calls, 
appeared in the doorway. "I want to 
show Mrs. Fairbank the oven, dear. 
She's thinking of getting one. Why, 
where is it?" 

"Here," and Sarah pointed with a 
tragic gesture to the floor, where the 



pieces of oven presented a disgracefully 
disheveled appearance. 

"Mrs. Fairbank was blessed with a 
sense of humor, and at sight of Sarah 
with floury arms, the forlorn pie and the 
oven, she burst into laughter so kindly 
and contagious that the others joined 
her, perforce, and Sarah felt, somehow, 
greatly comforted. 

"You poor child," Mrs. Fairbank said, 
"I'll run right home — I'm on my way as 
it is — and send Henry over. He'll have 
it fixed for you in a jiffy. There'll be 
time to finish your pie before dinner. 
It's nice warm." 

"Oh, please, — you mustn't," Sarah 
protested weakly. 

But Mrs. Fairbank was already on her 
way, and in an impossibly short time her 
son appeared at the kitchen door. 

"It's a shame to bother you," Sarah 
said, feeling hot and miserable. 

He kneeled down near the pieces on 
the floor. "No bother at all. These 
ovens are tricky sometimes." But 
within five minutes this one became 
miraculously whole and the pie was 
baking. 

At the end of a Maryless week, Mrs. 
Pearson told her husband that Sarah 
was really getting to be an excellent 
cook. "She is persisting as she never 
has in anything else." 

"Of course, she is. Sarah'll succeed 
yet," her father said. "Nice young 
chap, that Henry Fairbank," he added 
rather irrelevantly. 

His wife gave him a sharp look. 
"Now don't you go to imagining things. 
Will," she said. "Of course, he's been 
here quite a little, but then he's inter- 
ested in her machines." 

Mr. Pearson laughed and said that, of 
course, he was interested. Not a bit of 
doubt about that. 

When Jim came back from his busi- 
ness trip, he found waiting for him what 
he termed a "perfectly corking dinner." 

"By Jove, Sal, you sure have done 
wonders! Look at these biscuits. 
How'd your modern implements work ?" 



THE BIG DAYS OF LIFE 



437 



"Not very well, at first," Sarah ad- 
mitted, blushing. "But Henry fixed 
them." 

"Henry fixed— Help ! Who's Henry ?" 

"Mrs. Fairbank's son — he's an elec- 
trical engineer. He's been awfully nice 
— and I'll thank you not to laugh, 
James Pearson." Sarah actually blazed 
at her brother, startling him so that he 
choked on a bit of biscuit. 

"He's a splendid fellow. You must 
meet him, Jim," said his mother, giving 
him a significant little nod. 

"Fine. Like to, I'm sure. \\'hen can 
I have the pleasure ?" 

"He's coming over tonight," Sarah 
told him, partially mollified. 



After dinner Jim and his father were 
smoking on the piazza. "Say, dad, what 
about this Henry Fairbank, anyway?" 

Mr. Pearson sighed. "I fear, my dear 
son," he said, "that he is going to prove 
Sally's last and only enduring fad." 

This prophecy was not quite correct. 
Two years later Henry Fairbank, Jr., 
made his appearance in the world. His 
mother adored him, but Sarah's enthusi- 
asm was equal to the drain upon it, for 
it embraced not only her long husband, 
her father, mother, and brother ; it in- 
cluded, also, her little home, which was 
the talk of the neighborhood, being com- 
pletely equipped with every sort of 
labor-saving device for the housekeeper. 



The Big Days of Life 

By Eleanor Robbins Wilson 



THESE are the days toward which 
we are instinctively drawn. 
Whether they bide with the past, 
present or future, they each hold a mag- 
net for the emotions. Like the walls of 
heaven they are fortified by many gates, 
and the paths leading thereto are as vari- 
ous and devious as the caprices of hu- 
man will. 

Yet, far and wide, these beacons of 
endeavor shine out in the Hves of all the 
world's doers, and always somewhere 
back in the gray days of obscurity was 
fashioned the kindling taper of hig-h re- 
solve. 

The other day, in talking with one of 
our city's gifted lawyers, I found that, 
years ago, away out in. a little humdrum 
village of the Middle West, he first laid 
hold of the aspiration that twenty years 
later lighted one of his unforgetable 
days. He was then a small, wide-awake 
urchin of seven years, and the usually 
sleepy hamlet in which he lived had 
risen to the occasion of holding patriotic 
services in memory of its dead soldiers. 



There was a big procession that Memo- 
rial Day, a band that played stirring 
war-songs and, last but not least, a Con- 
gressman famed for his oratorical ef- 
forts to address them. Here, when the 
town was thus astir with holiday fervor, 
was engraven one of the indelible im- 
pressions of childhood. The little lad 
drew near to the renowned speaker and, 
with all the ardor of childish hero- 
worship, drank in his every word. This 
man was a brilliant lawyer. Presto, the 
die was cast! He, too, would be a law- 
yer. "This determination," said my 
legal friend, "carried me through two 
decades of hardship. It was with me 
when I hoed long, back-breaking rows 
of onions. It helped me saw wood. It 
won me an education. In short, it glo- 
rified poverty, and nothing can ever ef- 
face the glow of pride that colored the 
memorable day in which I was admitted 
to the Bar." 

In that wonderful book, "All the Days 
of My Life," Amelia Barr, its more 
wonderful author, chronicles one of her 



438 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



red-letter days. She was then seventy- 
seven and had written nearly all of her 
sixty fine novels. "On February, the 
twenty-ninth," she writes. "I was guest 
of honor at the Press Club Reception, 
held at the Waldorf Astoria. I enjoyed 
this occasion thoroughly, for I like the 
men and women of the press. I sat be- 
side Mr. Pollock, a man of extraordi- 
nary genius. I had a very sore throa^ 
that day, but his speech made me forget 
I had anything but a heart and brain." 
After reference to further mental re- 
freshment, she continues, ''I had a little 
reception after the meeting, and never in 
all my life had I been so petted and 
praised. The young women crowded 
round me and kissed my hands and my 
cheeks, and I wished they were all my 
daughters. Mrs. Klopsch had sent me 
an immense bouquet of violets and I 
gave every flower away to them. If 
fame ever tasted sweet to me, it was 
during that half hour among the lovely 
women of the New York Press." 

But let us look back thirty-seven years 
on the road to celebrity. Mrs. Barr, at 
that time, was a widow, and trying to 
eke out a livelihood for herself and 
three daughters by teaching a few pri- 
vate pupils in Ridgewood, New Jersey. 
Aside from her friendship with Mr. 
William Libbey and his family, her first 
acquaintances on coming East, it was a 
sombre, colorless existence. '*It was a 
slow, monotonous, dreary life, to which 
there seemed no outlet," she records. 
''The house was in a very ugly lane, and 
I had no neighbors but a Dutch family, 
who only knew me when I was paying 
them money ; and a negro family, who 
were useful in the way of washing and 
ironing and cleaning. On the Sabbath, 
I generally went to Mr. Libbey's for 
dinner, and that was my only mental 
recreation." It was on one of these 
memorable evenings, when Mr. Libbey 
was entertaining an English guest, that 
Mrs. Barr was called upon to relate, in 
her own inimitable way, some very 
thrilling experiences of Texan life, of 



cotton raising and manufacture, and 
more especially of the crucial period of 
the Civil War and the numberless heart- 
gripping incidents of its break-up. 

A short time after the happy occasion 
of this gathering, Mrs. Barr chanced to 
meet Mr. Libbey, who said to her, "I 
want you to write out the story of the 
break-up in Texas. Write it just as you 
told it to Mr. Fox. Send it to me. I 
will see that it goes to someone, whose 
criticism will be severe enough and fair 
enough, to prove whether you have the 
ability to write. If you can write, you 
can live." 

After choicely expressing her grati- 
tude, Mrs. Barr went to work without 
delay, and next morning, bright and 
early, handed the neatly written manu- 
script to Mr. Libbey, as he entered his 
carriage to drive to business. 

'Tn two weeks," continues the charm- 
ing narrator, "Mr. Libbey brought me a 
check from Daniel Appleton and Com- 
pany for thirty dollars. I was aston- 
ished and delighted, but after a few 
minutes I laughed joyously, and cried, 
'Why, I can write three or four of those 
things every week ! O, Mr. Libbey, how 
happy you have made me ! Is my work 
really to be printed? Can I write? Do 
you think I can write?' Tt will appear 
very soon,' answered Mr. Libbey, 'and 
Mr. Bunce, t)ie editor of the magazine, 
spoke very highly of your work; fur- 
ther, he said he would like you to write 
them a story. Will you try one?' Tn- 
deed I will ! I have lots of stories in my 
mind. I will put them on paper at 
once.' " 

Then, in the elation of her early dis- 
covery, our much-loved novelist writes, 
"I ktiew that my vocation was found. I 
had received the call, and haying done 
so, I was sure my work would be as- 
signed me. Of some things we feel 
quite certain. Inside there is a click, a 
kind of bell that strikes, when the hands 
of our destiny meet at the meridian 
hour. I cannot make it ])lainer, those 
who have experienced it will know." 



THE BIG DAYS OF LIFE 



439 



All her life Mrs. Barr had been a stu- 
dent and lover of the best English. She 
was an intelligent observer and the pos- 
sessor of an imagination that, when 
worked, proved to be a veritable mental 
Klondike. Furthermore, she early gave 
evidence of being a patient and con- 
scientious worker, meeting each dra- 
matic epoch of her eventful days with 
the desire to live fully and painstakingly. 
Adversity but served to strengthen her, 
and sorrow she only allowed to soften 
and sweeten. In such wise were built 
the fundamental requirements of a fine 
fictionist. Her preparedness was ample 
when the call came. And, after all, it is 
only what we bring to the common hour 
that lifts it into the realm of the event- 
ful. 

It is a question, if the common hour 
is not always ripe with greatness, and 
only poverty of vision that bids us write 
it barren and unyielding. How many 
men and women sat by vessels of boiling 
water and never dreamed of the possi- 
bilities of steam ! 

It remained for James Watt, the in- 
ventor of the modern condensing steam- 
engine, to harness it to useful service. 
It was indeed a gala occasion for Watt, 
after his close application and long 
wrestle with poverty and ill-health, to 
look on the fruits of his labor. Gain- 
ing his inspiration from a steam-pump 
that was used chiefly in the drainage of 
mines, a device that was slow-working, 
cumbrous and extremely wasteful of 
fuel, he left the mark of his genius in a 
powerful, efficient engine, adapted to 
driving machinery of all kinds. This 
achievement quite over-towered his 
other minor inventions, such as the 
letter-copying press, etc., but the big 
motive back of each subject in hand 
made his big days, big days for all the 
world. 

Looking about at our everyday con- 
veniences, it is interesting to note how- 
many have been the outgrowth of a 
dreary monotony that flowered into a 
red-letter day of attainment. 



Take the case of John Murdock, the 
inventor of illuminating gas. As a busy 
man, superintending the fitting of en- 
gines at Cornwall, he became interested 
in experimenting with the distillation of 
coal-gas. Eventually the reward came. 
The joy of creation was his! And on a 
day long golden in memory, A. D. 1792, 
when he was about thirty-eight years of 
age, his little cottage at Redruth was 
first illuminated with his invention. 
After this, he made such practical dis- 
coveries in making, storing, and purify- 
ing the new illuminant that, ten years 
later, there was another red-letter day, 
when the whole exterior of his big fac- 
tory at Birmingham was lighted with it, 
in celebration of the peace of Amiens. 

Yes, red-letter days are but the glori- 
ous linings of gray years of toil. And 
"trifles not only build the trust of great 
things," — trifles, w^e find, are often the 
very womb of great things. 

The patience of a spider repeatedly re- 
pairing its broken web taught Robert 
Bruce the incalculable lesson of persist- 
ency, a persistency which sent him 
forth with renewed courage and brought 
a period of freedom to his beloved Scot- 
land. 

A shock from the frowning tempest 
conveyed along a wet kite-string led to 
Franklin's discovery of the lightning 
rod, and drew us a step nearer to un- 
folding the mysteries of electricity. 

The fall of an apple led Sir Isaac 
Newton to discover the law of gravita- 
tion. 

And, fortuitously, in 1868, when 
Thomas Edison was a youth of twenty- 
one, it happened that he was in New 
York when the indicator of the gold and 
stock company broke down. In the ab- 
sence of a competent employe he volun- 
teered his services, which not only suc- 
cessfully adjusted the instruments, but 
suggested to his inventive mind a new 
device — the printing telegraph. This 
was the initial step toward twentieth 
century wizardry that is now familiar to 
all his admirers. 



440 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



It is not often that a woman's wish 
can change the aspect of a whole city. 
But such was the case with the late Mrs. 
W'oodrow \\'ilson. Going about in the 
interests of social sen-ice work, the blot 
of the darkened alley districts of Wash- 
ington weighed heavily upon her. 
Though stricken with a fatal malady, 
the goal of her ideal did not grow dim. 
A few hours before the end came, ^Irs. 
Wilson told the President that she 
would ''go away happier" if she knew 
the alley slums would be wiped out. 
\\'ord was sent to the Capitol, and the 
House district committee promptly re- 
ported a bill carrying a large appropria- 
tion for that purpose. Shortly after- 
ward, the House passed the Senate bill 
prohibiting the use of dwelling houses 
in Washington alleys after four years 
from the date of legislation. And the 
new \\'ashington, cleansed of these civic 
blots, must ever lay its tribute to a day 
made white with a woman's vision. 

In the early days of the Church, the 
chief festival days were indicated in the 
calendar by a red letter. So in the sa- 
cred precincts of each heart lies a tablet 
of the years whereon the big days of 



life are similarly designated. And these 
heart histories, with their unique appeal, 
only serve to emphasize the number of 
wonderful experiences we share in com- 
mon. For the durable satisfactions of 
life await every man's individual inter- 
pretation, and some of our very biggest 
days, we find, are simply the personal 
glorification of commonest joys. 

And that day of days when you found 
yourself. For it was a day rich in the 
fateful hour when you came upon the 
kernel of a whole life's enjoyment by 
finding your vocation — your individual 
niche of endeavor in the world's activity. 

But early years, by no means, have the 
monopoly of momentous occasions. 

It is ours to win the gifts of the gods 
daily. And just so long as we face vic- 
tory ; just so long as we travel forward 
in the winged sandals of enthusiasm, 
shall we bring nearer the answer of our 
devotion. 

Yes, thank God, the spell of the fu- 
ture is on us all. The thrall of an elu- 
sive tomorrow ever beckons toward the 
golden fruitage of desire, toward some 
big day of life — the day when dreams 
come true. 



The Cup of Life 



We often say that life's a cup 
Which each of us must drain, 

And many times we hear it said, 
It brims with grief and pain. 



But I am sure if we have lived 
The years as best we can, 

With service kind to those we love 
And to our fellowman, 



Ofttimes, so bitter is the drink, 
It holds no drop of sweet, 
So sad hearts say, whose lives have known 
The anguish of defeat. 



We'll find far more of sweet than sour, 

Of joy than grief or pain ; 
And when the cup is drained, we'll long 

To drink it o'er again ! 

Arthur Wallace Peach. 




Markets of the Old World 



By Antonia J. S temple 



THE European tourist may have no 
deep appreciation of architec- 
ture, art or antiquity, and may 
be bored to death by many of the sights 
he is expected to ''do,*' but the normal 
man or woman is yet to be discovered 
who is not interested and who does not 
delight to visit the open-air markets 
abroad. From the great Halles Cen- 
trales of Paris, the Covent Garden 
flower-market of London, the pictur- 
esque fruit-market of \'enice, to the 
markets held once or twice a week in the 
little, out-of-the-way towns and villages 
of Europe, the most blase globe trotter 
will find something to interest and 
amuse, while the housewifely soul, or 
the man brought up close to the soil, or 
who earns his bread through agricul- 
ture, can learn much by ''poking about" 
in these marts, so different from any- 
thing to be found in America. 

Across the water, the housekeeper 
does not do her marketing over the tele- 
phone, neither does the maid get a 
chance to flirt with the grocer}^ clerk or 
butcher's boy, and incidentally take any- 
thing he chooses to bring and at the 
price he says is correct. 

No, indeed. The European housewife 
goes to market in person, she carefully 
inspects the stock in trade, she goes from 
one stall to another, and buys wherever 
she can get the most quality and quantity 
for her money. She does not purchase 
in haphazard fashion, this European 
housewife. She calculates, and haggles, 
and buys according to her purse and her 
needs. She is not afraid of being 
laughed at, neither does she pay any at- 
tention to what her neighbor thinks of 
her purchases. She buys exactly what 
she wants, and as much or little as she 
desires, and she keeps an eagle eye on 
the salesperson while her purchase is 
being weighed or counted out and done 

441 



up, so she is certain of getting precisely 
what she bargained for. Neither is the 
good woman ashamed to cd.vry home 
her marketing. If she is wealthy enough 
to have her maid, the maid sometimes 
trots behind madame carr}ing the mar- 
ket basket, for the woman of means goes 
to market as religiously as does her 
poverty-stricken neighbor, and, from ap- 
pearance, she finds it a pleasant diver- 
sion as well as a duty. 

In the old-world markets the small 
purchaser is catered to, encouraged and 
expected, and is as obligingly waited 
upon as the larger buyer. In these mar- 
kets one can buy a single onion, or two 
roses, or a lone lamb chop, and still be 
strictly comme le faut. Nothing abroad 
is wasted, and the housekeeper with a 
small family finds it as easy to buy in 
the small amounts she requires, and gets 
as good quality and reasonable prices, as 
does her neighbor who keeps a pension, 
for instance. 

All sorts and conditions of purchasers 
crowd the old-world markets. The lone 
little shopgirl, the rotund mother of a 
large family, the bride and groom, arm 
in arm, the peasant and the fine lady, the 
tourist, and the man with but a few 
centimes between himself and starva- 
tion, all these pass by in endless pro- 
cession. The human interest, the variety, 
the picturesqueness of an old-world 
market surely exert a great fascination 
upon anybody with an eye to see and an 
ear to hear. Once let the tourist get the 
habit of visiting the foreign markets, 
and he will cheerfully get up at five 
o'clock any morning in order to see a 
new one. 

The Halles Centrales of Paris is prob- 
ably the most famous market in the 
world, and also one of the greatest and 
most interesting. In this market is sold 
ever}'thing edible that grows above, in 



442 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



or under the ground, as well as every- 
thing the sea produces. To see this mar- 
ket at its best, one must visit it early 
in the day, when business is at its height 
and when the large buyers, hotel keepers, 
owners of street stalls, push-cart owners, 
green grocers, and small dealers are on 
hand. All is bustle, rush and hustle, but 
buyers and sellers are all good natured, 
and quip, badinage, sarcasm and jokes 
interlard serious business transactions. 
The French are an artistic nation, and 
this characteristic trait is strikingly 
brought out in this market. Here are 
endless stalls of roses, violets, carna- 
tions, heliotrope and every flower that 
grows, artistically arranged in sheaves 
and little bouquets and sprays, some sur- 
rounded by leaves and others by twisted 
paper cornucopias, but all displayed to 
the best advantage. W^omen preside ex- 
clusively over the flower stalls, and ap- 
parently do all the work in connection 
therewith, and each woman's stock in 
trade consists of only one variety of 
blooms. They are specialists, you see, 
and sell only one kind of flower. It is 
entrancing to walk through these fra- 
grant lanes. The obliging goddess who 
presides over the particular beauties you 
may chance to admire will sell you one 
rose as cheerfully as she will a dozen, 
and will handle the one blossom as 
daintily and smile at you as benignantly 
as though you were buying her whole 
stock in trade. There seems to be no 
jealousy between these women in the 
same line of business. All appear to be 
on good terms with one another, and 
there are no black looks if you fail to 
purchase at one stall and pass on to the 
next. We bought a dozen of exquisite 
Jacquemont rose buds for the magnifi- 
cent sum of twelve cents, and the sales- 
woman smiled broadly at our manifest 
satisfaction. 

The fruics, too, are arranged with an 
eye to beauty. All the fruit, and every- 
thing else as well, is brought to market 
in willow baskets of various sizes, all 
lined with fresh grape leaves, and cov- 



ered with leaves also. The baskets, 
large, small, and middle-sized, are set 
out to make a harmonious picture, and 
of course the fruit shows to splendid 
advantage. All the fruit is in prime con- 
dition, freshly picked, and the same 
quality from top to bottom. There may 
have been inferior fruit, but we saw 
none. The huge gooseberries, the mag- 
nificent grapes and other small fruit, 
were beyond compare, but on most 
things the prices are a bit higher than 
with us. 

And the vegetables ! France is full of 
little market and truck gardens and hot 
beds, so thousands of lettuce, romaine, 
endive, escarole and all the other 67 
varieties of salad greens and vegetables 
the French use so freely, the cactus-like 
artichokes and the other aristocrats of 
the vegetable world, to say nothing of 
the humble staples, were all on view. 
The stalls are not scattered about with- 
out rhyme or reason, but everything is 
carefully classified. You will not see 
potatoes sold next to lettuce, but all the 
potato sellers will be in one section, the 
lettuce saleswomen in another, and so 
on. The fish and meat sellers are also 
similarly arranged. Everything is of 
scrupulous cleanliness, and not even the 
most critical could find fault with any- 
thing, except that the goods are dis- 
played uncovered. Certainly the French 
know the value of cleanliness and artis- 
tic display and careful grading as aids 
to the salability and the securing of the 
best prices for their wares. 

The French market women seem to be 
a race all by themselves and appear to 
have not even blood relationship to the 
French lady of the fashionplate as we 
know her. Hale, hearty, sturdy, is the 
French market woman, of almost mas- 
culine build, red of face, full-fleshed, 
deep-chested, wide-hipped, strong and 
capable and independent — a creature of 
the out-of-doors. They all wear a sort 
of uniform: plain black gowns, full- 
skirted, with huge, coarse, blue linen 
aprons, gathered in voluminous folds, 



MARKETS OF THE OLD WORLD 



443 



and making another skirt over the black 
one. She has deep pockets in this apron, 
and sometimes madame wears a little 
black shawl over her shoulders, but 
always, in summer, at least, she is hat- 
less. When she is not busy arranging 
her stock or waiting on customers, she 
knits coarse wool stockings. Never is 
she anything but shrewd, well up in her 
business, kindly, and a good student of 
human nature. 

The markets in the German cities com- 
prise usually a series of rude booths or 
tables, with awnings stretched over them 
to keep out the sun and rain. The 
booths occupy the centre of the main 
street or public squares, and are ex- 
ceedingly busy places. Here, too, 
women hold sway, for the most part, and 
they do not hesitate to proclaim the 
merit of their wares if they see you are 
interested in anything. There is a most 
extraordinary variety of goods on sale. 
Beside the usual meats, fruit and vege- 
tables, there are numberless kinds of 
sausages, a wide choice of smells in 
cheeses, and such delicacies as sauer- 
krout, pretzels, head cheese, rolls and 
kuchen, to say nothing of live and 
dressed geese, poultry, live pigs, dogs, 
horses, rabbits, and even cows and sheep 
lined up for sale. Bargaining and dick- 
ering goes on deliberately on every hand, 
but the ad\ent of an American is at 
once noted, while a Yankee with a 
camera will cause a general suspension 
of business till everybody knows what 
is going to happen. In the German mar- 
kets it is not infrequent to see a woman 
bring her baby and a couple of the 
younger children, and they will spend the 
day snugly ensconsed behind the counter, 
or play about near the mother's place of 
business. 

The Italian markets are more pic- 
turesque, but they are not models of 
cleanliness, and, at times, one longs for a 
clothespin attachment for the nose. In 
most of the markets of Italy the women 
have their baskets of wares setting on 
the ground at their feet, and no great 



attempt is made to add to the attractive- 
ness of their appearance. Plenty of 
bambini are in evidence about the 
markets and the women do not look over 
and above neat; and quite often husband 
and wife do business together. They 
are always very voluble and the woman 
is apt to be the keener in attempting to 
outwit a customer. You can never be 
quite certain, in Italy, that you are not 
paying more than the marketwoman is 
asking others for the same thing. The 
Italian markets are redolent of garlic, 
vile smelling cheeses, horrible looking 
sausages and bologna, and queer kinds 
of bread and cakes. 

The market above the far-famed 
Rialto bridge in Venice is certainly the 
height of the picturesque. Here the 
ground — for there is some dry land in 
\'enice, popular belief to the contrary 
notwithstanding, is stacked with willow 
baskets of luscious, red-cheeked peaches, 
piled up in tall pyramids, the apex of 
each pyramid crowned with a little hat 
of green leaves, and the whole thing 
wired to prevent spilling or crushing. 
The way the men transport these pyra- 
midal baskets of peaches on their heads 
from one point to another, and scuttle 
around like mad with a basket on their 
heads and one under either arm, fills 
the beholder with amazement. The 
boats come in from the outlying islands 
about Venice, loaded to the water's edge 
with mouth-watering tomatoes, peaches 
and delicious melons, and prett}^ sights 
they make as they lie anchored at the 
market place, discharging their cargoes. 
Such fruit is cheap in Venice, and the 
American abroad, used to little and in- 
ferior fruit on the continent, revels in 
peaches and melons when he strikes the 
Queen of the Adriatic in his wander- 
ings. Ripe figs, too, should be eaten 
here. Ripe figs are an acquired taste, 
like olives, though some people are born 
with a liking for the ripe figs, which you 
would never suspect had any relationship 
with the dried fig we know. A ripe fig 
is about the size of a small beet, and 



444 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



practically the same color as a beet in- 
side. It has a peculiar, insipid taste, 
like nothing else under the sun, and it 
feels cold, smooth and slippery to the 
touch. If your hand should happen to 
come against one accidentally in the 
dark, as mine did, you might think you 
had touched a snake or a frog. You can 
press, and squeeze and maul a ripe fig 
like a football. If you like figs at all, 
you will like them very much; if you 
don't, you will think they are horrid. 

The Italian markets are noisy, but the 
Venetian market is the gayest, noisest, 
most picturesque and altogether interest- 
ing of any in Italy. Most Venetians ap- 



pear to be up all night, and consequently 
do not come to sight or life till after 
mid-day, but at the Rialto market all is 
activity early in the morning. Pur- 
veyors to the wants of the stomach are 
always on duty while others sleep, and 
even in lovely Venice, the public market 
which supplies the happy-go-lucky Vene- 
tian with his daily rations is worth visit- 
ing. It is interesting to know that the 
Italian government, which taxes "Italia, 
Italia, beloved," to the limit, exacts a tax 
upon every boatload of produce that is 
brought into Venice from the outlying 
islands, and that tax has to be figured 
into the high cost of living there. 



Afte 



rnoon i ea 



T( 



By Frances E. Gale 



IT is difficult just now to think of 
England, except as peopled by 
harassed, care-ridden men and 
women, permitting themselves few 
pleasures and apprehensive of greater 
sacrifices to come. The picture is, doubt- 
less, sadly true, but, to one who has seen 
normal English life so recently that to 
imagine its serious disarrangement is 
almost impossible, the certainty persists 
that the framework of daily life built 
out of centuries of custom still holds. 
Of that framework what may seem like 
a trivial, but what is really a most im- 
portant part, is the afternoon meal known 
as "tea," which imported and adopted by 
the so-called leisure class of this country 
seems in American surroundings to lose 
some intangible thing that is sensed 
under English skies. Perhaps it is a 
feeling of nation-wide comradeship. In 
America the lady of leisure may play 
with her teaspoon at mid-afternoon, but 
she knows, if she stops to think, that the 
great majority of Americans are busy in 
shop or office, factory or field, and 
would be amazed or scornful, if it were 



suggested that they should stop for rest 
and refreshment before the completion 
of the day's work. In England the 
duchess knows, as she drinks her tea, that 
the charwoman and the farm laborer, the 
member of parliament, the soldier, and 
the king, himself, are all doing the 
same thing, that the grateful aroma of 
tea is rising like an incense from every 
hearth on the island, that for the mo- 
ment labor is put aside and the nation 
draws a breath of rest and peace. 

When, therefore, the fervently longed- 
for time arrives when the war clouds 
shall roll away and that postponed first 
trip abroad of yours becomes a reality, 
m.ake up your mind right now, if you 
want to get all the pleasure and profit 
possible out of the experience, to fall in 
with this custom of the country, and let 
not a day pass while you are on British 
sod without taking your *'tea." 

Perhaps you do not like tea when you 
are at home. Perhaps you think it a 
thin, uninteresting, bitter beverage, unfit 
to be mentioned in the same breath with 
coffee. Never mind. You'll like it when 



AFTERNOON TEA 



445 



you are there, for in that land of fogs it 
has a tahsmanic gift of bringing to the 
surface all the graces, and leaving out 
all those phases that jar and fret some 
of us "a bit" in the English character. I 
defy the most patriotic American to take 
his tea regularly and leisurely in what- 
ever part of London he may find himself 
each afternoon for two weeks and not 
feel the Eagle's wings drooping sleepily 
and the Eagle's beak nestling comfort- 
ably among its breast feathers, while the 
suspicion grows that the British Lion is 
more truthfully represented by the 
amiable stone beasts in Trafalgar Square 
than by the rampant figure that glares 
defiance at the Unicorn and the World. 

The mistake many hurried tourists 
make is in thinking that they have not 
time to stop for tea. It's an unnecessary 
meal. They rarely have it at home. 
Why waste a precious hour each day, 
when they have secretly wagered their 
souls that within three weeks they will 
see and be able to describe Westminster 
Abbey, the Bank of England, the Man- 
sion House, the Mint, the British Mu- 
seum, Buckingham Palace, Whitechapel, 
the Parliament Buildings, Billingsgate, 
St. Paul's Cathedral, Rotten Row, the 
Old Cheshire Cheese, the National Gal- 
ler}s Covent Garden Market, and half 
a hundred other sights. All these things 
can certainly be seen within three weeks, 
and the sightseers can come home know- 
ing no more about the British as a people 
than could have been learned by a care- 
ful study of Baedeker. But let them 
stop every afternoon at 4.30, whether in 
Kensington, at Richmond, or Charing 
Cross, and look about for the gracious 
words ''Afternoon Tea" (a field-glass 
won't be needed to find them whatever 
be the locality), and then, selecting a 
little table near a window upon an upper 
floor, go leisurely over the menu card 
with its muffins, crumpets, scones, Sally 
Lunns, French pastries, jam and TEA, 
and while the order is being obtained by 
the neatest and most polite of waitresses, 
let them look down upon the never-ceas- 



ing swirl of the human stream in the 
street below, the distinctive character of 
which will be much better appreciated 
when detached from it, and then over 
the quiet, unhurried little groups that 
fill the room, and something of English 
LIFE will seep through tired, tourist 
brains, lending color and meaning to the 
"sights" of which descriptions are 
nightly jotted down in notebooks. 

With so much to do in limited time a 
matinee in London may seem wasteful 
use of a whole afternoon. You can go 
to the theatre at home — perhaps see the 
ver}^ same piece and performers. But 
wait until the curtain falls after the sec- 
ond act. Then you rub your eyes and 
wonder if much tea-drinking has driven 
you mad ; for, tripping down every aisle 
come dainty, capped-and-aproned maids, 
bearing trays, each containing a tea ser- 
vice for one, two or three persons. Upon 
the tray is a tea-pot, its little strainer 
swinging from its mouth, a fat creamer 
and sugar-bowl, a plate of thin bread 
and butter, another of tiny wedges of 
cake, and cups and saucers according to 
the number to be served. Quick, beckon 
the little servitress, who places her tray 
on the lap of the stout lady at the end 
of your row (it isn't hard to catch her 
eye ; it's a roving one, for all her lashes 
fall so demurely), and tell her to bring 
you a tray, too. While she is absent note 
the satisfaction of your next neighbors, 
a bishop and his dean (it's a piece the 
church approves) as they balance their 
tray upon the left knee of one, the right 
of the other, the lesser dignitary doing 
the pouring and serving his superior, 
after which they sip and nibble and dis- 
cuss affairs of church and drama, em- 
phasizing their remarks w^ith little taps 
of teaspoon on cup or little waves of 
crust in slender, scholarly fingers. When 
your own tray comes, it will be well to 
pay strict attention to it the first time, 
for it takes practise to safely manipulate 
a tea-service in an orchestra or balcony 
chair, but let no fears of accident deter 
(Continued on page 482) 



446 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change' of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership and management as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, I<)i2, 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers: R. B. Hill, B. M. Hill 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co., 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter 

A NEW YEAR 

THE last numbers of American 
Cookery, we think, have been ex- 
ceptionally good. The present issue 
holds much of special interest to house- 
wives. Considering quality and relia- 
bility of content, the price per year of 
this publication is very low. Its cost 
can not measure its worth in the home, 
for it has special, economic value in 
respect to healthful home life. We ap- 
peal to our readers at this time to con- 
tinue their patronage. The domestic 
afifairs of America can not fail to pros- 



per. The signs of increasing activities 
are auspicious. But our interests are 
entirely mutual and interdependent. 
''We must all hang together or hang 
separately." Wliy not look forward to 
the realization of many good things in 
the new year we now enter upon? 
Cheerful New-Year Greetings to all the 
world ! 

THE WAR 

SOME reference to the terrible con- 
flict now raging in Europe can not 
well be omitted from any publication ; 
for no doubt our readers are reading 
and thinking and talking of little else 
than war. How can it be otherwise? 
Though our opinions and our sympa- 
thies are involved in the strife, yet it 
may not be wise, in every place and on 
all occasions, to express them, lest we 
impose upon others who may in some 
wise differ from us. 

Certainly we have been called upon, 
suddenly and unexpectedly, to be un- 
willing witnesses of most strange and 
marvellous events. The fundamental 
principles of government and society 
seem to be at stake. What are the mo- 
tives that actuate the warring nations of 
the earth? Out of the mass that is 
being said and written today about the 
war, every one, at least, can draw in- 
ferences and conclusions which may 
lead to convictions. At any rate, we 
need look well to the fundamental prin- 
ciples of life, to the motives that incite 
and stimulate our own activities. Are 
these leading us towards war or peace ? 

One thing is certain and can be pro- 
claimed at all times and in all places, 
war that is not defensive can not be 
justified. "Millions for defence, not a 
cent for tribute" is just and right. We 
love justice; we hate injustice. 

QUALITY IN MILK 

HE best way to find out the quality 
of milk used in the family is to go 
to the records of the health department 
in town or citv. I f one lives in a small 



T 



EDITORIALS 



447 



village where the health board is mainly 
ornamental, because unpaid, or where 
inspection of foods is made at rare in- 
tervals, one cannot have as sure proof 
of quality as in larger places. As a 
rule, the milk bought in a small com- 
munity has a much higher bacterial 
count than that delivered to homes in 
any city where health boards inspect 
constantly, and competition is so great 
that effort must be made continually 
by dealers to have milk of good quality. 

In a certain city, a large woman's club 
has a table compiled often from the 
milk-inspection records of the health 
department. It is interesting to note in 
the latest report that the bacterial count 
per cubic centimeter w^as something over 
seven millions in one case and but 2600 
in the best milk recorded. Both dairies 
charged ten cents a quart, in spite of the 
incredible difference in the quality. 
Another dairy with about a 3000 count 
and catering to a special trade asks 
twenty cents a quart. 

It is never wise to condemn any milk 
or dairy on a single unfortunate showing, 
which may have been an exception to 
the general average and is to be viewed 
in the light of an accident. However, 
while overlooking a fault once, it is wise 
to increase vigilance in looking after 
succeeding records. a. e. w. 

DO NOT WORRY OR COMPLAIN 

WHEN half the world is at war and 
suffering and misery are rife ; 
when poverty and hunger stalk through 
lands which have smiled in prosperity ; 
when towns and cities lie in ruins and 
man calls upon the flood of waters to 
sweep away the still more fearful de- 
vastation of armies ; let us homemakers 
shut our lips upon the trifling annoy- 
ances and troubles of life, the little 
things that are wont to annoy and bring 
forth words of irritation, and refuse 
at all to fret or complain. 

Do not worry or complain. The 
world today knows so much worse ills 
than ours. This is the day in which 



trivial grumbling shows badly and be- 
speaks weak natures. We need all our 
energies, not only to right our own mis- 
chances, but to help those in direst need. 

What are petty, daily trials like ours 
in the face of woe and starvation and 
death? In the present, world-wide 
calamity, our hearts should forget the 
day of small things. We live in an 
atmosphere of awful, yet heroic deeds, 
which the overweening pride and grasp- 
ing ambition of a few have made neces- 
sary to all. We have a battle to fight — 
the battle of peace. 

W^hen others offend us; when they 
speak unjust and cruel words, or do 
unjust and cruel acts, let us restrain 
our resentm.ent — for anger is the be- 
ginning of madness — that state of mind 
whence war springs. 

Or when, worse, perhaps, of all, we 
ourselves make the mistake, commit the 
error, and find that the consequences, 
which seem to us punishment, have re- 
coiled upon our own heads, when : 

"The ill-timed truth we might have kept — 
Who knows how sharp it pierced and stung? 
The word we had not sense to say — 
Who knows how grandly it had rung? 

Even then, do not complain. This is 
a time for brave doing, not for repining, 
for following the counsels of the wise 
apostle, to forget the things that are be- 
hind and reach forward to those that 
are before. For to act our part well in 
the present, we must look forward to 
the future. 

And, after all, the best cure for worry 
and complaint is to help somebody 
whose temptation to complain is far 
greater than our own. The reflex grasp 
of the hand of fellowship from a sufifer- 
ing fellow mortal has a wonderfully 
stimulating efifect. It cheers the present, 
and, like the flash of an electric contact, 
it illumines the future. 

With so much of the world needing to 
be thought about and helped and cheered, 
let us cease to worry- and complain over 
the trifling vexations of daily life. 

F. c. s. 



448 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



TRUE PRAYER 

The war will end when one side or 
the other is forced to the point where 
it must sue for peace. If an angel 
from heaven stood before the forces 
ruling Europe today and offered peace 
on condition that equality and right- 
eousness be put first in the affairs of 
government, then that offer would be 
refused. Prayer for peace puts the 
lesponsibility where it does not be- 
long:; asks God to end what man is 
entirely and wholly responsible for. 
Such a view of prayer is childish in 
the extreme. It belongs to the ages 
before reason was born, when super- 
stition ruled the thoughts of men. I 
am not willing to degrade my con- 
ception of prayer merely to conform it 
to the views of the unthinking ma- 
jority. I can't for a moment think 
that the will of the Spirit of the Uni- 
verse is going to be changed by 
prayer. If it could be, then it would 
be a capricious thing and not some- 
thing that we could trust and respect. 
True prayer is communion with the 
Spirit of the Universe. It is the at- 
tempt to put one's self in harmony 
with the power that makes for right- 
eousness. — Rev. E. I. Goshen. 



At a recent farmers' meeting a story 
was told of a woman who, in joining the 
grange, refused to put down her occu- 
pation as ''farmer's wife." She main- 
tained that she was as much a farmer 
as her husband, that she was an equal 
partner with him and was therefore a 
farmer. In taking this position, this in- 
telligent farm woman made an argument 
in her favor which few men would dare 
controvert. In fact, the truth is getting 
to be more and more recognized that 
the wife is and should be an equal part- 
ner in the management and ownership 
of the farm, and that she has a just and 
well-earned right to the title of "farmer," 
if she wants to be so distinguished. 



It is quite possible that the American 
family is too optimistic. It is always go- 
ing to have a larger income next year or 
in five years. It desires to keep up in 
social matters with the people next door 
or farther up the street. It buys pianos 
or motor-cars or encyclopedias on 
monthly payments,, but in most cases 
puts no monthly instalment in the sav- 
ings-bank. It has no margin of security. 
How much better it is to have a margin 
of resources than to be living continu- 
ally on the ragged edge of nothing. The 
future happiness and prosperity of the 
average American family depend upon 
the proper adjustment of income and 
expenditure. — T. D. MacGregor. 



The habit of dissipating every serious 
thought by a suggestion of agreeable 
sensations, is as fatal to happiness as to 
virtue; for when amusement is uni- 
formly substituted for objects of moral 
and mental interest, we lose all that 
elevates our enjoyments above the scale 
of childish pleasures. — Anna Maria 
Porter. 



''Know what you want to do, hold the 
thought firmly, and do every day what 
should be done, and every sunset will 
see you that much nearer the goal." 



DESTINY. 



We are what we imagine, and our deeds 
Are born of dreaming. Europe acts to-day- 
Epics that little children in their play 
Conjured, and statesmen murmured in their 

creeds ; 
In barrack, court and school were sown those 

seeds, 
Like Dragon's teeth, which ripen to affray 
Their sowers. Dreams of slaughter rise to 

slay. 
And fate itself is stuff that fancy breeds. 

Mock, then, no more at dreaming, lest our 

own 
Create for us a like reality! 
Let not imagination's soil be sown 
With armed men, but justice, so that we 
May for a world of tyranny atone 
And dream from that despair — democracy. 
Percy MacKaye. 




WHITE GRAPES, WALNUT MEATS AND MARSHMALLOWS, GLACE 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Salpicon of Fresh Fruit 



R 



EAIOV'E the skins from half a 
pound of white grapes, cut the 
grapes in halves and remove the 
seeds. Cut three oranges and three 
grapefruit in halves and take out the 
pulp in neat sections. Add all the juice 
from the oranges and grapefruit, and 
mix together lightly. Set aside to be- 
come thoroughly chilled. When ready 
to serve, dispose the mixture in ten 
glasses, and set a scant teaspoonful of 
sifted, powdered sugar above the fruit 
in each glass. 

Braised Salmon 

Select a middle cut of salmon (three 
pounds will serve six people generously ). 
Sprinkle a few bits of fat salt pork in 
the bottom of a casserole, and add three 
parsley branches, half an onion and 
half a carrot, in slices; set the fish on 
the vegetables ; add two tablespoonfuls 
of red-wine vinegar and about one cup 
of boiling water ; lay two or three small 



strips of fat salt pork above the fish, 
cover the dish and let cook in the oven 
about half an hour, basting three times 
with the liquid in the pan. The oven 
should be of moderate heat. Set the 
fish on a hot platter, and strain off the 
liquid ; melt three tablespoonfuls of 
butter ; in it cook three tablespoonfuls 
of flour and a scant half teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and pepper, then add the 
liquid from the fish and one-third a cup 
of cream and stir until boiling. Serve 
the sauce in a bowl. Garnish the dish of 
fish with parsley, slices of lemon and 
Saratoga potatoes. 

Larded Beef Tenderloin, 
with Bananas 

For larding use the strip of fat salt 
pork between the rind and the row of 
coarse fibres that separate this portion 
of the meat from the much softer por- 
tion below ; remove the rind, cut in 
slices one-fourth an inch thick, then cut 
these slices into narrow threads as long 
as possible and one-fourth an inch wide, 



449 



450 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



scant measure ; chill the lardons in ice- 
water; insert one at a time in a larding 
needle and take up stitches about an inch 
long; insert the needle below the sur- 
face about one-fourth an inch, withdraw 
and tie the lardon in a loose knot. 
Insert the lardons in the meat in rows, 
then dredge with flour and set into a 
hot oven ; turn in five minutes, and again 
after a second five minutes, and after 
fifteen minutes, to sear the meat on all 
sides, then cook, under side up, until 
half done; then, finally, cook on the 
larded side. Baste six or more times 



of parsley, a tiny bit of bay leaf and a 
slice of green pepper or half a chili 
pepper; let cook until all are softened 
and yellowed ; drain off the fat, add one- 
fourth a cup of vinegar and let stand 
on the back of the range until the vine- 
gar is reduced one half. To the fat 
drained from the vegetables add butter 
to make one-fourth a cup in all (4 table- 
spoonfuls) ; when hot add one-fourth a 
cup of flour and let cook until browned 
slightly, then add one cup and a half 
of dark brown stock and stir until boil- 
ing; add the vegetables and vinegar, let 




BRAISED SALMON, WITH SARATOGA POTATOES 



with hot fat. When cooked surround 
with small cooked bananas and pour 
over the bananas about two cups of 
Poivrade sauce. 

Baked Bananas 

Select small bananas from the top of 
the bunch, one for each service. Tear 
down a section of skin, then loosen and 
take out the pulp from the skin ; scrape 
to remove all coarse threads, then return 
the pulp to the skin and put the loosened 
strip back in place. Set, side by side, in 
an agate dish and let bake until tender 
(it will take about twenty minutes). 

Poivrade Sauce 

Put about two tablespoonfuls of the 
trimmings (bits) of pork from the lard- 
ing into a sauce pan, and let cook slowly 
until the fat is drawn out ; add two slices 
of onion and five of carrot, two sprigs 



boil once, then strain over half a cup of 
sultana raisins, cooked tender in boiling 
water; finish with three tablespoonfuls, 
each, of currant jelly and Madeira wine. 

Chaudfroid of Chopped Ham, 
with Salad 

Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in 
it cook two tablespoonfuls of flour and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika, then add one cup of 
chicken broth seasoned with onion, celery, 
parsley, etc., and four tablespoonfuls of 
cream and stir until boiling; stir in one 
tablespoonful of granulated gelatine, 
softened in one-fourth a cup of cold 
water or chicken broth, and when dis- 
solved add one cup and a half of fine- 
chopped, cold, boiled ham and turn into 
a shallow dish, and let chill. With a 
fancy-shaped cutter, dipped each time in 
boiling water, stamp out shapes from the 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



451 




LARDED BEEF TENDERLOIN. WITH BAKED BANANAS 



mixture; set the pan in warm (not hot) 
water an instant and the shapes may be 
lifted out. Pour over the shapes chaud- 
froid sauce just on the point of setting, 
garnish with stems and leaves of cress 
or parsley and capers, then cover care- 
fully (to avoid disturbing the decora- 
tions) with half-set aspic. Serve with 
string beans, seasoned with French 
dressing, and with lettuce and quarters 
of tomatoes or flowerets of cauliflower. 

Chaudfroid Sauce 

Make a sauce of two tablespoonfuls, 
each, of butter and flour, one-fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and pepper and 
one cup of rich milk ; add one table- 
spoonful of granulated gelatine softened 
in one-fourth a cup of cold water. 

French Dressing for String Beans 

Cut an onion in halves crosswise and 
scrape out about a tablespoon ful of 
pulp; add to this three tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, one-third a cup of olive oil. 



half a teaspoonful. each, of salt and 
paprika and stir until well mixed. 

Aspic Jelly 

Soften one tablespoonful of granu- 
lated gelatine in one-fourth a cup of 
clarified chicken broth and dissolve in 
three- fourths a cup of the broth heated 
to the boiling point. Use when just on 
the point of '"setting." 

Spinach, Sausage-and-Egg Salad 

Cook half a peck of thoroughly 
washed spinach in the water that clings 
to it while washing. Drain and press 
out all the water. Chop the spinach 
fine; add half a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and paprika, mix and press into 
a mold lined with paper rubbed over 
with a little oil. Set a weight above the 
spinach and let stand in a cool place 
overnight. Prick pork sausage on all 
sides and dispose in a frying pan ; add 
about a third a cup of boiling water and 
let cook in the oven until well browned. 




CHAUDFROID OF HAM. WITH STRING-BEAN SALAD 



452 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



turning them once, meanwhile. Let 
them become cold. Unmold the spinach 
on a serving dish, press against the sides 
and on top slices of hard-cooked ^gg', 
surround with the sausages and sauce 
tartare. 

Hard-Cooked Egg for a Garnish 

Cover the egg with boiling water. Let 
the dish containing the egg stand on the 
back of the range, covered, half an hour, 
then draw to the front of the range, un- 
cover and heat to the boiling point ; let 
boil one minute ; drain and chill in cold 
water, then remove the shell and cut in 
slices. The one minute of boiling 



all of the dressing is not used at once, 
cover it with a saucer and set aside in 
a cool place. 

Sauce Tartare 

To the recipe for mayonnaise given 
above add two tablespoonfuls, each, of 
hne-chopped capers, olives, cucumber 
pickles and parsley. 

Mayonnaise of Apples and Dates 

For the main dish at luncheon, allow 
four heart leaves of lettuce, half a large 
apple, six dates, a tablespoonful of 
lemon juice and about one-third a cup 
of mayonnaise, for each service. Used 



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shrinks the outer surface of the egg and 
allows the removal of the shell and 
membrane to leave a smooth surface. 

Mayonnaise Dressing 

Beat the yolk of an egg ; add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
paprika and two tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice and beat with an egg-beater until 
well blended ; add one teaspoonful of 
olive oil and beat in thoroughh', then 
add another teaspoonful of oil and, 
when this is thoroughly blended with the 
other ingredients, add a third teaspoon- 
ful ; continue in the same manner, add- 
ing the oil, in a short time, l)v the table- 
spoonful, until a cup in all of oil has 
been used ; then beat in two la1)lespoon- 
fuls of boilino: water, one at a time. If 



in place of dessert, the above quantities 
will suffice for two portions. Pare, 
quarter and core the apple, then cut the 
quarters in small pieces of uniform size 
and at once mix the lemon juice through 
the apple, to keep it from discoloring. 
Mix the dates — previously scalded, 
dried and cut in lengthwise slices from 
the seeds — with the pveces of apple and 
one- fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika, then mix with the mayon- 
naise and dispose on the lettuce. Serve 
at once. 

German Coffee Cake, 
with Almonds 

1 cake compressed j 1 cup scalded milk 
yeast I Mour for sponge 

1 Clin lukewarm I h. cup melted butter 



water 



cup sugar 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



453 




MAYONNAISE OF APPLES AND DATES 



h teaspoonful salt 
1 egg, beaten light 



Grating of lemon 

rind 
Flour and almonds 



Orange Bread 



Soften the yeast in the water ; mix 
and add to the milk cooled to a luke- 
warm temperature, then stir in about 
one cup and a half of flour; beat 
thoroughly and set aside to become 
light; add the butter, sugar, salt, egg, 
lemon rind and flour for a dough. The 
dough should not be mixed stiff 
enough to knead. Cut and turn the 
dough with a knife for five or six min- 
utes, then turn into a shallow buttered 
pan and spread to uniform thickness 
throughout ; brush over with a little of 
the egg left for the purpose and sprinkle 
with chopped almonds. Use about one- 
fourth a cup of almonds, one being a 
bitter almond. Let stand until very 
light, then bake about half an hour. 
Serve hot with cocoa or coffee, or when 
cold cut in slices, toast, spread with 
butter and dredge with cinnamon and 
sugar mixed. 



1 cake compressed 

yeast 
i cup lukewarm 

water 
1 cup orange juice 
Grated rind 2 

oranges 



2 tablespoonfuh 
butter 

1 teaspoonful salt 

2 tablespoonfuls 
sugar 

1 egg yolk 
About 4 cups bread 
flour 

Soften the yeast cake in the lukewarm 
water, mix and add to the orange juice 
and rind, the melted butter, salt, sugar, and 
egg yolk, beaten light, then stir in flour 
for a dough. Knead until the dough is 
smooth and elastic, then cover and set 
aside until about double in bulk. Divide 
in two pieces and shape to fit lengthwise 
of a brick-loaf bread pan. When again 
nearly double in bulk bake one hour. 
Use for plain butter or any variety of 
cheese or sweet sandwiches, or to serve 
with cocoa or tea. The bread is good, 
toasted and sprinkled with sugar. 

Checkerboard Sandwiches 

Use white and dark Graham or nut 




GERMAN COFFEE CAKE 



454 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



bread; of each cut three sHces half an 
inch thick. Spread a slice of the dark 
bread with creamed butter and on it 
press a slice of white bread ; spread this 
with butter and press upon it a slice of 
the dark bread. Begin again, spreading 
a slice of white bread with butter, then 
press upon it a slice of dark bread ; 
spread this with butter and press upon it 
a slice of white bread. Set these aside 
in a cool place, on a small bread-board, 
a light weight above each. After half 
an hour, trim each and cut in half-inch 
slices; spread a slice with butter and set 
.a second slice above in such a manner 



plenty of paprika. Have ready a little 
crabmeat or tender bits of lobster, sea- 
soned with French dressing; spread 
bread, cut in fancy shapes, lightly, with 
the cheese-mixture, set a bit of the 
dressed article in the centre of part of 
the pieces and press the others above. 

Cheese-and-Pimiento Sandwiches 

Beat half a cup of soft cheese until 
pliable, then gradually work in Russian 
salad dressing until the mixture is of a 
consistency to spread easily. Finish with 
chopped or fine-shredded pimientos. 
Rinse the canned pimientos in cold 




ORANGE BREAD 



that the cubes of bread will alternate in 
color; proceed in same manner, until all 
the slices are used ; press again under a 
weight, then cut in thin slices to serve. 

Cheese-and-Nut Sandwiches 

Cream one- fourth a cup of butter ; 
gradually work into it two ounces, or 
half a cup, of grated cheese, half a tea- 
spoonful of paprika and one-fourth a 
cup of pecan-nut meats cut in thin slices. 
Use to spread any variety of bread 
shaped for sandwiches. 

Surprise Sandwiches 

Cream one-fourth a cup of butter; 
gradually beat into it about two ounces 
of any mild, soft cheese, or a hard 
cheese, grated, will answer ; season with 



water, then dry on a cloth before shred- 
ding. Use with any variety of bread 
desired. 

Orange-Bread Sandwiches 

Spread orange bread, prepared for 
orange 



sandwiches, with 



marmalade 



worked into Neufchatel cheese. 

Rolled Cress Sandwiches 

As soon as white or entire-wheat bread 
comes from the oven, roll each loaf, 
separately, in a towel wrung out of cold 
water, then surround with a dry towel. 
In about three-fourths of an hour, slice 
the bread as thin as possible, trim to 
shapes twice as long as wide, spread 
with creamed butter and roll like a jelly 
roll. Set aside close together, wrapped 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



455 



in a towel, until ready to serve, then 
press a sprig of cress into the ends of 
each sandwich. 

Open Cracker Sandwiches 

Select small, thin, round or square 
crackers. Cream three or four table- 
spoonfuls of butter, work in one or two 
tablespoonfuls of sherry wine, then beat 
in as much "snappy" or ''Maclaren's" 
cheese as the butter will take; spread 
the cheese on the crackers, rounding it 
to dome shape in the center, set bits of 
crabapple jelly or a red bar-le-duc cur- 
rant or bit of preserved quince, here and 
there, on the edge. 

Edam-Cheese Sandwiches 

Make half a cup of white sauce, sea- 
soning with paprika ; while hot stir in 
as much grated Edam cheese as pos- 
sible. Use, hot or cold, as a sandwich 
filling. 

Adelaide Sandwiches 

{First Course at Luncheon or Dinner) 

Have ready rounds of bread fried in 
butter, two for each service. These 
should be two inches and one-half in 
diameter. Also, have two-thirds a cup 
of cooked chicken and one-third a cup of 
cooked ham cut in one-fourth inch 
cubes. Mix a teaspoonful of curry 
powder to a paste with, four tablespoon- 
fuls of Worcestershire sauce, and let 
heat to the boiling point, then add the 
chicken and ham and let stand over boil- 
ing water until hot throughout. Spread 
the mixture on half of the prepared 
bread and set the rest of the slices 




CHECKERBOARD AND OTHER SANDWICHES 

above ; on the top of each set a ball of 
grated Parmesan cheese and butter 
worked to a smooth paste. Let stand 
about five minutes in a hot oven. Serve 
at once. Use equal measures of butter 
and cheese. 

Small SouvarofF 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one-fourth a cup of 
sugar, then the beaten yolk of one ^gg, 
a grating of lemon or orange rind and 
about one cup of flour ( no baking pow- 
der or soda is called for). Knead the 
dough slightly, then roll into a thin sheet 
(a magic cover is helpful) ; cut into 
small ovals, lift with a broad-bladed 
knife or spatula to a buttered baking 
sheet, and bake to a pale amber shade. 
Put two cakes together with fruit jelly 
between, spread the top with fondant 
or confectioner's frosting and decorate 
with half a cherry and two leaves cut 
from citron or anjelica. The frosting 
for souvaroff is usually flavored with 



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456 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




LITTLE CAKES 

rum or kirsch, but any flavoring desired 
will answer. 

Small Lemon Queen Cakes 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
beat in one cup of granulated sugar, the 
grated rind of a lemon, four egg-yolks 
beaten light, two tablespoonfuls of lemon 
juice, one cup and a fourth of sifted 
flour, sifted again with one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of soda, and, lastly, the whites 
of four eggs beaten dry. Bake in small 
fluted tins, garnish the top with a little 
cooked fondant and a bit of cherry. 

Small Cream Cakes 

Put half a cup of boiling water and 
one-fourth a cup of butter over the fire ; 
when the butter is melted, sift in half a 
cupof pastry flour and stir vigorously to a 
smooth paste, which forms a ball in the 
saucepan. Turn into an earthen dish ; 
beat in one whole egg and when smooth 
beat in the white of another egg. Shape 
on a buttered tin in small rounds less 
than an inch in diameter. Let bake 
about twenty minutes ; split on one side 



and insert a bit of English cream. Set 
a little melted fondant on the top and 
sprinkle with chopped pistachio nuts. 
If desired, chocolate may be added to 
the fondant. 

English Cream 

]\Iix and sift together, several times, 
one-fourth a cup, each, of flour and 
sugar, then cook in one cup of scalded 
milk fifteen minutes; beat one egg (one 
yolk will do), beat in two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar and stir into the hot mixture. 
Flavor when cold with vanilla, or other 
flavor, as desired. 

Grapes, Nuts, Etc., Glace 

Set two cups of granulated sugar, one 
tablespoonful of glucose or a tablespoon- 
ful and a half of corn syrup and one 
cup of water over the fire; stir until the 
sugar is melted, then with the fingers 
or a cloth or brush, repeatedly wet in 
cold water, wash down the sides of the 
saucepan to remove possible grains of 
sugar; cover and let boil about three 
minutes, then uncover and let cook to 
about 295 degrees F. Have the grapes, 
English walnuts or marshmallows ready ; 
the grapes should be wiped with a damp 
cloth ; each should retain a short bit of 
stem ; all sugar or starch should be 
brushed from marshmallows. Drop the 
articles, one by one, into the syrup (set 
into a dish of hot water) and with a 
dipping fork* lift them out and dispose 
them on the bottom of an inverted tin 
pan. Xuts and marshmallows will keep 
in good condition several days. Candied 
white grapes are particularly good, but 
must be served the day of making. 




SMALL SOUVAROFF 



Menus for a Week in January 



Breakfast 

Cereal, with Dates, Thin Cream 

Broiled Ham, Fried Apples 

Grilled Potatoes 

Hot Yeast Rolls 

(kept in ice-chest overnight) 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Roasted Shoulder Young Pig 

Baked Bananas, Currant Jelly Sauce 

Potatoes Scalloped, with Peppers 

Boiled Onions 

Delmonico Pudding with Peaches 

Coffee 

Supper 

Coffee Cake, Toasted 

Cream Cheese 

Currant or Apple Jelly 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 
Sausage, Fried Bananas 
White Hashed Potatoes 

Spider Corncake 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Celery Souo 

Onions Scalloped, with Nuts 

Apple Pie, Cheese 

Half Cups Coffee Caramels 

Supper 

Turkish Pilaf 

(rice, tomatoes, cheese, etc.) 

Bread and Butter 

Stewed Prunes 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Pork-and-Potato Hash 

Buckwheat Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Salt Mackerel, Boiled, Drawn Butter Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes, Boiled Cabbage 

Apple Dumplings, Hard Sauce 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Baked Apples 

Oatmeal Macaroons Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin, Mustard 

Creamed Potatoes 

Fried Mush, Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Scalloped Oysters 

Squash, Cold Slaw 

Cranberry Pie, Cheese 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Creamed Kornlet au Gratin 

Quick Nut Bread 

Evaporated Peaches, Stewed 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Broiled Bacon 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Dry Toast 

Doughnuts, Apple Marmalade 

Coffee 

Dinner 

Round Steak en Casserole 

(onions, carrots, potatoes) 

Celery 

Steamed Pudding, Syrup Sauce 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Mayonnaise of Apples and Dates 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Sliced Bananas, Thin Cream 

Kornlet Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Mock Bisque Soup 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Baked Sweet Potatoes, Celery 

Squash Pie 

Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Macaroni, with Tomatoes, Cheese, etc. 
Rye Bread and Butter 

Baked Apples 
Brownies Tea 



Breakfast 

Salt Codfish, Creamed 

Quartered Potatoes, Boiled 

Buttered Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Cream of Celery Soup, Supper 

Browned Crackers Salmon-and-Lettuce Salad 
Hani Timbales, Tomato Sauce Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Canned Peas Stewed Prunes 

Parker House Rolls Molasses Drop Cakes 

Canned Blueberry Pie Tea 
Half Cups Coffee 
457 



Dinner Menus for Family of Three and One Maid 

(Non-Fattening) 

(Two or three courses. Average cost per week $15) 



Sunday 

Roast Fillet of Beef 
Braised Celery, Marrow Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

French Endive, French Dressing 

Cup St. Jacques 

. (Macedoine of Fruit, with Lemon or 

Orange Sherbet) 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Monday 

Emergency Soup 

(vegetable soup not thickened) 

Cold Roast Fillet of Beef 

Baked Potato Cakes 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

(sauce answers for cauliflower and meat) 

Lettuce, Prune-and-Pecan Nut Salad 

Whipped Cream Dressing 
Half Cups Coffee Toasted Crackers 

Tuesday 

Chicken Soup 

Halibut Steaks Baked, with Oysters, Drawn 

Butter Sauce 

Potatoes Scalloped, with Green Peppers 

Spinach 

Tapioca Baked with Apples 

Half Cups Coffee 

Wednesday 

Fried Chicken, Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Kornlet Fritters 

Celery 

Hot Baba, Wine or Apricot Sauce 

Half Cups Coffee 

Thursday 

Salpicon of Fresh Fruit in Glasses 

English Lamb Chops, Broiled 

French Fried Potatoes 

Squash 

Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing 

Sea Moss Blanc Mange 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Friday 

Fresh Codfish Chowder, Pickles, Olives 

Gnocchi a la Romaine 

Lettuce-and-Endive Salad, French Dressing 

Cranberry Pie 

Half Cups Coffee 

Saturday 

Round Steak en Casserole 

(onions, carrots, potatoes) 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce, Apples and Dates 

Pulled Bread 

Half Cups Coft'ee 



Sunday 

Macedoine of Fresh Fruit in Glasses 

Roast Leg of Lamb, Apple-Mint Jelly or 

Mint Sauce 

Franconia Potatoes 

flashed or Creamed Turnips 

Lettuce, French Dressing, with Chili Sauce 

Squash Pie. Cream Cheese 

Half Cups Coffee 

Monday 

Lamb Pilau, Turkish Style, Tomato Sauce 

Onions Stuffed with Mushrooms or Nuts 

Celery 

Cup Custard, with Meringue 

Oatmeal Macaroons 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Tuesday 

Fresh Salmon Baked in Casserole 

Boiled Potatoes 
Hot House Cucumbers or Pickles 

Apple Pie, Cheese 

Half Cups Coffee 

Wednesday 

Braised Squabs or Pigeons 

Canned Peas, with Carrots Julienne 

Celery, with Brown Sauce. Lettuce 

Baked Tapioca Custard Pudding 

Vanilla Sauce 

Half Cups Coffee 

Thursday 

Boiled Forequarter of Lamb, Caper Sauce 

Turnips Potatoes 

Lettuce-and-Tomato Jelly Salad 

* I\Iince or Prune Pie 

Half Cups Coffee 

Friday 

Mock Bisque Soup 

Rolled Bacon and Breaded Fillets of Halibut 

(fried in deep fat) 

Tartare Sauce or Philadelphia Relish 

Mashed Potato 

Buttered Onions 

Cheese melted on Crackers Celery 

Nuts and Grapes Glace 

Half Cups Coffee 

Saturday 

Lamb Souffle, Tomato or Brown Sauce 

Creamed Potatoes 

Canned String Beans 

Lettuce-and-Green-Pepper Salad 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

Cheese Balls (fried) 

Half Cups Coffee 



458 



Menus for Two-Course Luncheon for Semi-Formal 
Occasions in January 



Gnocchi a la Romaine 

Lettuce, with Macedoine of Vegetables in 

Tomato Jelly, 

French Dressing 

Xut Bread Sandwiches 

Pineapple Bavarian Cream 

Macaroons 

Coffee 



II 

Breaded Fillets of Fresh Fish (fried) 

Sauce Tartare 

Creamed Potatoes 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cup St. Jacques 

Clemon sherbet with macedoine of fruit) 

Sponge Drops 

Coffee 



III 



Chicken Croquettes, Peas 

Lettuce-and-Endive Salad, French Dressing 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Meringues with Whipped Cream and 

Preserved Chestnuts 

Coffee 



VI 

Green Pea or Kornlet Soup, St. Germaine 

(timbale in each plate) 

Browned Crackers 

Mayonnaise of Apples and Dates 

Nut Bread Sandwiches 

Coffee 



VII 

Savory Rice Timbales, Cheese Sauce 

Lettuce-and-Cress Salad 

Clover Leaf Biscuit 

Marshmallow Cup 

(whipped cream, marshmallows, white grapes, 

pineapple and canned peaches) 

Half Cups Coffee 



VIII 

Cheese Custard 

(individual dishes) 

Lettuce, with Cubes of Tomato Jelly, French 

Dressing 

Lady Finger Rolls 

Apples Baked with Almonds, Whipped 

or Plain Cream 

Small Souvaroffs 

Half Cups Coffee 



IV 

Creamed Fresh Fish au Gratin 
(individual dishes) 

Olives, Pickles 

Parker House Rolls 

(reheated) 

Prune Jelly, Whipped Cream 

Oatmeal Macaroons 

Coft'ee 



IX 

Chicken a la King, Kornlet Fritters 

Lettuce-and-Cress Salad 

Yeast Biscuits 

Chocolate Ice Cream in Meringue Shells 

English Walnuts Glace White Grapes Glace 

Coffee 



Creamed Chicken, Peas and Pimentos 

on Toast 

Olives Celer}' 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

Jumbles 



Broiled Sirloin Steak with Fresh Mushrooms 

Broiled Sweet Potatoes, Peas 

Baked Potatoes 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce, Grapefruit, Oranges 

and White Grapes 

Cheese, Toasted Crackers 

Coffee 



459 



Farm to Table 



By Alice E. Whitaker 



TO send your basket by parcel 
post into the country, to be 
filled with farm and dairy pro- 
duce, and then returned to your home 
is the latest way of doing the family 
marketing. \\'hile the carrier of that 
basket, the parcel post, is a modern in- 
stitution, the elimination of the middle- 
man by direct dealing between con- 
sumer and producer seems like a return 
to by-gone days and methods. Whethcx* 
this plan can be made a success is being 
studied by Washington, D. C, house- 
wives under the guidance of the House- 
keepers' Alliance. 

The following is their method of buy- 
ing by parcel post: A bulletin is pub- 
lished monthly, giving names and ad- 
dresses of producers and what each has 
for sale, and this covers a wide range, 
from vegetables, meat and poultry to 
preserves and honey. This list is posted 
in the Public Library and is, also, dis- 
tributed by subscription. The house- 
wife leaves her market basket, egg con- 
tainer or combination container, at the 
nearest post office or drug-store postal 
station and sends hei' order to the 
farmer by letter, enclosing money 
enough to cover the cost. If there is a 
balance, she usually expects it returned 
in stamps, as it does not seem practical 
to run accounts. The farmer receives 
the basket at his door, fills it and takes 
it to the nearest post office, planning to 
have the basket reach the city in time for 
delivery during the day at the house- 
wife's door. It is necessary in this lo- 

460 



cality to send money, because some 
X'irginia and ^laryland farmers live far 
from banks and cashing a check might 
mean a trip to the county seat. 

It sometimes happens that perishable 
food is delayed and must be held at the 
city post office over night. To prevent 
loss and disappointment, the Washing- 
ton Post Office is planning to build a 
large refrigerator for this class of mail 
matter that was unheard of so short a 
time ago. 

One of the trials in parcel-post mar- 
keting is the ignorance among producers 
of what the city market demands in 
quality and especially in uniformity. It 
is also true that all mail trains do not 
stop at small stations where just the 
kind of farmers live who would be 
benefitted by the sen^ice. Some pro- 
ducers would rather send eggs, for in- 
stance, in one large package to the com- 
mission man than to bother with five or 
six parcels of from two to four dozen, 
each, even at a slight gain in price. An 
unwillingness is sometimes noted to take 
less than the city market price by those 
who have fonnerly taken what the com- 
mission man saw fit to pay. This cuts 
out any inducement for the housewife to 
use the parcel-post system for market- 
ing. 

Mr. Otto Praeger, postmaster of 
Washington, D. C, makes the following 
statement : "To enable the farmer to 
secure a higher price for his products, 
and the consumer to secure the same 
products at a lower price through the 



FROM FARM TO TABLE 



461 



parcel post, it is necessary that the 
farmer spHt the middleman's profit with 
the consumer. For example, a produc- 
ing farmer has for sale a hamper con- 
taining a miscellaneous assortment of 
vegetables, for which the commission 
merchant or his agent pays him sixty 
cents and sells for one dollar, the mar- 
ket price in Washington. If he splits 
the difference between what the com- 
mission merchant pays him, namely, 
sixty cents, plus the postage of ten cents, 
with the consumer, he is getting fifteen 
cents more for his product and the con- 
sumer is paying fifteen cents less. Bear 
in mind this fact, that the consumer can 
go to market in Washington and pick 
out among a vast quantity of farm pro- 
ducts just what he wants, whereas, when 
he buys of the farmer, he is virtually 
buying a pig in a bag, and does not know 
what he is getting until the hamper 
reaches his home and he examines the 
contents thereof." 

Of the packing of foods the Superin- 
tendent of the Washington post office 
says: 'Tarmers must be schooled away 
from the shoe-box methods of shipment 
and taught many things about packing 
for parcel post." 

A few months ago a suitable container 
for handling eggs by mail was not manu- 
factured, but today eggs are among the 
most easily handled of farm products. 
Parcel-post egg boxes of the two-dozen 
size are sold at seventy-five cents a 
dozen and larger ones at proportional 
increase. Two-pound parcel-post butter 
boxes cost thirty-five cents a dozen. In 
this experimental stage of marketing by 
mail accidents sometimes happen, as 
when the clams for luncheon were side- 
tracked because of leakage. The sender 
learned later how to pack clams properly 
and had no further trouble in filling 
orders. 

When food-containers are legally 
standardized, a box of apples, a barrel 
of vegetables, or a quart of berries will 
always mean the same. At present one 
learns through the Office of IMarkets of 



the Department of Agriculture that a 
bushel of a given vegetable or fruit may 
weigh in one State eighteen pounds less 
than in another. A box of berries, by 
liquid measure, is somewhat less than a 
pint or quart, by dry measure, and one 
step towards making parcel-post market- 
ing a success will be to secure standard- 
ized containers. This is what the Office 
of Markets is working for and Mr. 
Brandt, in charge of the work, believes 
that both buyer and seller must have 
what he calls a common language or a 
set of terms which cannot be interpreted 
to mean more than one standard. 

A systematic effort is being made to 
determine whether the business methods 
of the farmers make it practicable to 
deal direct with the producer; whether 
the method of packing, character of pro- 
duce and intelligence shown in mailing 
meet the requirements of the city con- 
sumer, and, last, whether parcel-post 
matter of this sort can be delivered satis- 
factorily and in good condition. There- 
fore the Housekeepers' Alliance is can- 
vassing for a specific report by any 
person in the city who has had parcel- 
post experience, answering the following 
questions : 

1. Name and address of the farmer. 

2. Articles purchased and price paid, 

3. Who (farmer or consumer) furnished 

the container and how well was the 
produce packed ? 

4. Was the farmer's service prompt and 

satisfactory? 

5. In what condition did parcels arrive and 

how promptly were they delivered by 
the post office? 

6. Remarks. 

At present nearly 200 parcels of food 
products daily come into the Washing- 
ton post office. 

Small families of two or three, especi- 
ally those living in apartments, have no 
storage space. In such homes eggs, for 
instance, are more often bought by the 
half-dozen than by the package of two 
to four dozen, which is the more profit- 
able way to buy through parcel post. To 
overcome this difficulty to a degree, con- 
sumers' clubs of ten are being formed 



462 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and containers are delivered at some 
central home from which the division of 
the whole is to be made. This plan in- 
troduces another possible difficulty, for 
who will consent without pay to deliver 
the goods. Win each housewife be 
willing to bear her share, if by chance 
there is loss or shrinkage, and will all 
hold together to make another trial when 



disappointment comes, as is possible in 
ever\- business transaction? In short, 
even when, after a time, the parcel-post 
service becomes perfect, does not success 
depend largely on the business honor of 
the farmer and the patience of the 
housewife, which must be sufficient to 
make her irr.cre occasional lack of 
qualit>-? 



Fresh \ e^etables 



Bv Geo. T. Fish 



FRUITS and v ^ : 

meriy under liie 
don, by veiy m: 
by such, in times of chc'r r rr 

entirely ignored. It is r. : 
erally conceded that injur 
tend the use of these ar:: 7 
become stale only ; when : : 
ccmsidered, by many, mu : 
ful articles of diet than ^c^^ ^^-- 
traiy to the opinion which still prevails 
to some extent, men are able to endure 
hard muscular labor on a purely v^^e- 
table diet. The same amount of care 
used to ke^ meat fresh should be ap- 
ptied to vegetables. 

Housewives would do well to ur.ier- 
stand that it is quite as impor 
have green peas and green corr 
from the fields as to have fish fresh 
from the water. They should know that 



the 

CC-: 



sooni 



V. three ccHnmodities are 
ting taken from their 
e':: lt5 - '-^d sweeter they will 

zr y.t r.jt eaten peas and 

: rr t here they grew, 

cr T.:r. r : does not know 

the 'taste of these at their best. They 
who buy Aem in the market need to 
discriminate. In cities, certain days are 
known as market days — usually three 
days in the wedc — when the maricet gar- 
dener brings his product to the city. A 
supply of peas or com sbould be pro- 



eariy in the morning of these 
-^vs, to last until the following market 

Buying 

Ev making a study of the subject the 

viil be able to judge of their 

rss. Wlien peas remain in the 

: twenty-four hours, even though 

^c ' the pods are apt to be- 

oc: .vhile those just brought 

in, have a fresh, firm feeling, when 

handled. Com husks generally reveal, 

to the eye, the condition of the com. 

When it has been kept over, the edges 

- '"^ husks usually look dn* and with- 

Until a little experience has 

tr, he should depend upon 

f the dealer— Growing 

hir : n his honor. 

Age 

The age of peas and com has much 
to do witb their excellence. If half or 
three-fourths filled, they will be f oimd to 
please most tastes; they would be better 
yoimger than older. 

Varieties 

With the present improved varieties 
in the market, more depends on fresh- 
ness and size than on kinds. The old 
white marrowfat pea — or Irish marrow- 
fat, as it was called by some — ^was the 



FRESH VEGETABLES 



463 



standard of excellence; and it has not 
been surpassed. It was long ago re- 
placed, in the market, by the black-eye 
marrowfat, much more productive but 
of very inferior quality. Fortunately 
the latter has now given way to the tele- 
phone pea. This and kindred varieties 
has broad pods and usually finds its way 
to market before getting too old. Among 
the best varieties of com is Stowell's 
evergreen. As this is a late sort, it con- 
tinues in market after cool nights be- 
gin — at which time it is better able to 
preserve its sweetness, after being 
plucked. 

Preparation 

Peas should be podded and com 
husked as soon as they reach the house, 
whether to be cooked at once or not. It 
is a mistaken though prevalent notion 
that they keep better in the pod or husk. 
When thus prepared, they may be kept 
in the refrigerator until wanted for 
cooking. If they cannot be kept cold, 
it is much better to cook them at once. 
A good way is to put peas over the fire 
and bring them to a boU, when they may 
be set aside and the cooking finished 
when they are wanted. They will, un- 
like fish, be as palatable the second day 
as the first — providing they are fresh 
when first cooked. In shelling peas, if 
any very old pods are found, they should 
be rejected. Some people are of the 
opinion that com wiU be found sweeter, 
if a few of the inner husks, or part of 
the ears, are permitted to remain until 
they are boiled. In cutting com from the 
cob. the kernels should be scored — split in 
halves — by running a sharp knife blade 
through the center of each row. The 
com, if young, may then be pressed 
from the cob with the back of the knife, 
leaving the hull attached to the cob. 
Should the com be too old for this, 
shave off the upper part of the kernels 
with a sharp knife. This should be done 
after scoring, then by scraping with the 
back of a knife, the kernels may be re- 
moved without the base of the hulls. If 



half of the kernel is cut off, too mncfa 
of the hull will go with it. There arc 
some who insist on eating tfie com from 
the cob; believing that what is lost in 
elegance, is made up in taste — of the 
com. In such case scoring will be 
found quite as advantageous as though 
the com were to be removed witfa the 
aid of a knife. 



Th 



Ever 



Leaves." She who has i rciiy 

taken it may give herself :. : rs- 

son. Take two young, .■ : : s 

from the same tree; remove : -s 

from one, only; and treat the: : - 

wise, alike. Look at them oc: i y 

and it will be found that the s: : 

the leaves wiU shrivel and dry r: 
ter than the other. The reasc: ^ :hit 
the leaves perform the oflSce c : ^ . 

The water, taken up by the re : 
sorbed from the leaves by the air. \ '- . e : . 
the land at the source of our r:"=-5 is 
wooded, the woods held the v. .tr — e.? 
a sponge does — and fed it out r.iui. 
during the summer, through the 5 rear ? 
and rivers not only, but thrric :: t 
leaves also. The water, thus pu: :e: ir- 
to the air, was returned to the rir :. 
the form of rain and dew The 
destruction of the forests is followed by 
Hoods in springtime and droughts in 
summer. One of the islands of the sea, 
after being deforested, became a sandy 
desert- The remedy for our floods and 
droughts is to have timber belts planted 
by the national government. 

The roots of trees and plants are con- 
nected with the soil by means of minute 
rootlets which drink in the moist-ire 
from the earth. WTien the plant i? re- 
moved from the soil, the minute rooilets 
are destroyed and the source of the full 
water supply is cut off; so that the 
leaves, if permitted to remain, soon ex- 
hatist Ae supply. Other parts of the 
Dlar.t /'" : -oorate Ae moisture; but 



464 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



not as rapidly as do the leaves. Bou- 
quets of cut flowers are preserved, for 
a time, by placing them in water ; in this 
way the waste is in a measure supplied. 
The nurseryman, who digs trees early 
in the fall, first carefully removes the 
leaves. 

Marketing 

When radishes, beets, salsify and 
other vegetables are taken from the 
ground, the tops should be immediately 
cut of¥. If market gardeners would re- 
move the leaves and sell their vege- 
tables by count or weight, the latter 
would reach the consumer in much bet- 
ter condition. The husks of green corn 



and the pods of green peas discharge, 
to a considerable extent, the office of 
leaves and, unless removed, will absorb 
much of the sweetness of these vege- 
tables. The husks and pods should be 
removed by the gardener. Instead, 
they gather these vegetables, consigning 
them, in the husk or pod, to large sacks 
where they remain over night and, in 
sultry weather, become so heated that 
the sweetness is gone before they reach 
the market. If they were to be brought 
to market in thin crates, permitting a 
circulation of air, the injury done by 
heating might, in a great measure, be 
obviated, and thus profit accrue to both 
buyer and seller. 



Educating Housewives in Economical Shopping 



DON'T be afraid of the storekeeper; 
see that you get what you pay for. 

Don't let him weigh the tray, twine or 
paper; it's against the law. 

Don't accept a put-up package, unless 
the weight is plainly labeled. 

Don't be mystified with figures on the 
scale ; learn to read them. 

Don't forget to weigh everything after 
you get it home. 

Don't let a fancy package fascinate 
you ; look more to the contents. 

Go to the store yourself; and don't be 
too proud to carry your bundles home. 

Don't mistake cheapness for economy ; 
buy good goods every time. 

Don't ask for a quarter's worth ; state 
the exact quantity. 

Don't depend entirely on the looks of 
the shop ; style doesn't always mean 
good goods. 

Don't buy in small quantities ; save 
money by buying more than enough for 
today. 

Don't forget that it profits to pay cash 
— ^bookkeepers cost money. 

Don't let the butcher keep the bones 
and trimmings of the meat; you've paid 
for them. 



Don't telephone or send the children — I 
go to the store yourself. 



Why the high cost of living? — an old, 
trite, but ever-new, ever-present ques- 
tion. 

Perhaps the food barons are at fault; 
maybe we can lay a little blame on the 
war — but the great trouble lies with the 
housewife and the small dealer — mainly 
the housewife. 

Thus reasoned the Milwaukee city 
market bureau. The average Milwaukee 
housewife is ignorant, foolish, careless, 
neglectful, and extravagant ; many store- 
keepers are tricky, careless, and dis- 
honest. 

What's the remedy? Educate the 
housewife ! So they issued circulars 
with some fifty suggestions from which 
the above "Don'ts" are taken. 

Moreover, the department commis- 
sioners proved the case against the house- 
wives and the grocer. They established 
a city market where produce, vegetables 
and staples were sold, often at prices less 
than half of those charged by the grocer. 
They proved that the average Milwaukee 
housewife — over 100,000 patronized the 



EDUCATING HOUSEWIVES IN BUYING 



465 



city market — may be cheated, over- 
charged, robbed and otherwise "bun- 
coed" — all to the profit of the dealer. 

Not that the storekeeper is all in the 
wrong. Far from it — the housewife is 
culpable, argued these municipal cut-the- 
cost-of-living apostles. Many a house- 
wife buys a "dime's w^orth" of some- 
thing-or-other ; has it "charged" and 
"sent." They forget that bookkeepers 
cost money ; that delivery wagons are ex- 
pensive — all of which must be paid for 
by the consumer. So they tried to tdn- 
cate the woman to go to the store her- 
self, to make her purchases, pay cash 
and, if possible, carry the provisions 
home herself. That is, unless she 
orders enough to make it "worth while" 
for the grocer to "charge and deliver." 



Again, Mrs. Housewife orders only 
the finest, fanciest, put-up packages. She 
will pick out a package of some staple, 
the cover of which is beautifully tinted 
and decorated, merely because it looks 
fine — not thinking that all this, too, costs 
money to the consumer. 

Or she will order because goods are 
cheap — never stopping to see if they are 
good — and so loses by the transaction. 
Hence this advice — "Don't mistake 
cheapness for economy; buy good 
goods !" 

Some are too lazy, too indififerent, too 
busy or too inconsiderate, to go to the 
store themselves— they send the maid. 



the children or use the telephone — all of 
which mean loss to the family pocket- 
book. So the city heads ofifered this wise 
admonition. 

"Don't be lazy; don't be indifferent; 
don't send the children — go to the store 
yourself; buy what you want; see that 
the goods and prices are right, and don't 
be too proud to carry the bundle home 
yourself !" 

Another suggestion deals with meat- 
buying ! 

"In buying meat, don't go in and ask 
the dealer for a quarter's worth." 
"Select your piece of meat, first; then 
ask the price per pound; say how many 
pounds you want; see that you get the 
correct weight; compute the figures your- 
self and see that your change is cor- 
rect." Many a penny is lost to the con- 
sumer by neglecting this simple precau- 
tion — and the pennies count up fast 
while shopping. 

"You are entitled to all the meat you 
buy: fat, gristle, bone and trimmings. 
The fat can be rendered; the bone and 
trimmings will make soup— don't let the 
butcher throw these into the scrap box, 
only to remove and sell them over ap-ain 
when you are gone. They belong to you, 
and you should have them. 

"This circular is not issued to affect 
the honest dealer, but you owe it to your- 
self and your fair-and-square dealer to 
observe ordinary care in buying." 

J. H. s. 



The Song of the Sea 



A sea shell lay on a lonely beach, 
At the foot of a rocky cave 
And sang in its soul the mystery 
Of its life on the ocean wave, 
A mystical song of the sea. 

A man passed by, and, listening, heard 

The shell's low melody. 

And said as he thought with a bitter smile 

Of the ships he had lost at sea, 

"I hate the song of the sea." 



A child paused next in his careless play 

To hear the murmuring shell 

And said as he failed to understand 

The message it had to tell, 

"I fear the song of the sea." 

A poet came and inclined his ear 
To the song of the shell by the sea, 
And cried aloud with his heart on fire, 
'This is the ocean's harmony, 
And J love the song of the sea." 

Marie G. K. Outremont. 



A Cook Book 

By Agnes Porter 



IT is extreme!}' hard to be literar}% 
besides taking a great deal of time. 
Would that I had back the 3'ears 
that I spent in floundering through the 
vast morasses by Sartor Resartus, with- 
out deciding, at last, whether it was Mr. 
Carlyle who was crazy, or I ! \\'ould 
that I had back the years I spent in per- 
using the works of the Bard of Strat- 
ford! To make the plays seem real, I 
went to the author's birthplace — and 
came back still not knowing whether it 
was pronounced Avon or Av-von — and 
about Shakespeare — that he did not 
want his bones touched, and that he knew 
little Greek and less Latin! That was 
what a friend of his said, and everyone 
at Stratford quotes it. Still, when I 
came home I went on reading the 
Plays, until I had read them all. Then 
I stopped. My eyes were sore, and the 
people used to get on my ntrxes so 
much, that I thought the cat at the back 
door was Juliet before she took the 
poison; and that Othello w^as leering 
at me from the sideboard, when it was 
only Great- Grandpa whom they had 
brought down stairs unknown to me. 
When my eyes got better, I did a good 
deal of painting on velvet; yet all the 
time I was looking for a book ; a book 
that was interesting reading; heavy in 
parts and light in parts, poetic, and a 
little mysterious too, an all-round book. 
that would do for summer or winter 
equalty well — and while I was looking 
for it I W'as not going to have any other 
books w70TT\'ing me, so I sent Sir Walter 
Scott along vrith "The Green Turnip" 
and ''Best Society" up to the Rector>' 
where they were packing our Missionary 
Barrel. 

Then I begun to ask even,'one who 
came in for the best all-round book he 
or she knew, and one said — that was the 
minister — "The Bible." and one said. 



"Webster's" — that was the School 
Teacher — and one said "Ivanhoe," and 
one said "Mrs. Hemans' Hymns," and 
one said "The House of Mirth." So I 
gave it up. And there on my table I 
found it, a book much despised or ig- 
nored, which does not receive half the 
attention it deserves. Yet I have found 
it genuine and true to life, exact in ever}^ 
detail, and full of interest. The book, 
I find, to be appreciated, must be read 
in parts, little paragraphs as it were, 
perhaps two or three at a time, and 
slowly with meditation. Turning, for 
example, to the center of the book I find 
the description of Ambrosia. 

"Three oranges, five bananas, cocoa- 
nut" ; it says, "Peel, cut, cover with 
cocoanut and sugar and let cool for four 
hours in a dark place." 

There is certainly imagination enough 
for the most exacting in the last sen- 
tence. Who could think of the tooth- 
some dainty, growing hourly sweeter 
and cooler in the darkness, without 
smiling! 

Yet this little paragraph is no more 
excellent in its way than the one on 
"Lemon Sponge," or "Fair\''s Food" or 
"Kisses." ' Here we see poetry- blended 
into the commonplace, "To a table- 
spoonful of sifted flour, add the whites 
of five eggs, flavored with almond ex- 
tract." 

One cannot go far without mystery. 
But this book contains mystery, too. 
Five consecutive pages under the head- 
ing, "Sauces," are redundant of such 
terms as "Chives, peppercorns, mace, 
lentils, and chevril," or in other parts 
"Chili, paprika, and sage." The ver}- 
perfumes of Araby ^nd the Indies 
breathe in such titles as "Chow-Chow" 
and "Piccalilli" ; and to my mind Shake- 
speare's "Eye of newt and toe of frog" 
is no whit more interesting than that 



466 



A COOK BOOK 



467 



e story that b^ins, "Nine pepper- 
as, a sprig of thyme — " 
^ot for anything would I know what 
these ingredients are. They are to 
mysterious and delightful, 
lie book does not lack hearj ^ir-.5 — 
> ten pounds of suet, chopped r:- 
[ three cups of raisins, seeded, and a 
md of flour." Xor does it lack 
jedy. For what could be more tragic 
themselTes) than the descriptions of 
ST to dress a fowl, or "How to kill a 
5ter." 

rhall I even claim romance for tiiis 
3ian book, and add that beneath its 
' cover lies a little sadness; that the 
[es open where the hands of a girl 
^ered it oftenest — at the recipe for 



'•Bride's Cake." But the ingredknts 
were nerer called together in the great 
bowl, and the "Breakfasts for two," 
which she used to study haH-skxylj, were 
never cocked? 

A!! honor to the authors who tread 
rh places, who conjure in a god- 
-i^e way with Spirits and Lives. And 
to them honor is given. But to those 
who deal with potatoes — cut in dice, 
mashed carrots — or giUet sauce : — 

Shakespeare's Sonnets and an emptj 
stomach, that would not be happy ! Yet 
this carefully compiled book, dris com- 
pendium of usefulness, perfect of its 
kind, and worthy to stand beside Scott — 
is banished to a greasy home among the 
kettles and cans. 



Headaches and Digestion 



'he source of many headaches is fre- 
ntly traced to digestive dis: 
deranged stomach more of:^- 
has headache for one of its s 
is. 

are in diet should be strictly ob- 
red, also moderation and thorough 
^tication. It should be remembered 
: the body requires as much, if not 
-e, nourishment in winter than in 
tmer. But the nutriment should in 
ry case be chosen with a view to its 
ptability to one's system, and not sc 
± to its pleasing effect on the palate, 
[eadache may be brought on, too, by 
erf eeding. The sufferer has been on 
meagre a diet and wants strengthen- 
In the case of anaemics this is of 
|uent occurrence, and to remedy the 
tplaint a good meat diet is advisable. 
; meat, needless to say, must be fresh. 



tn<1 nrkf- 



rvtr«kinr^rkrk 



L-«>^ 



e last few year 
? a rdi 
t' rrsent agr. 

one of them. Of course tr. 
shou! - - become overioac 

nieht ! care should be 

t 'Jt at the s^ 

T - - food be 

t: as a me 7: 



ach during sleep, is 

muck 

other 

those 

meal L -c i 

bread and 

prove be: 



led to 
-d 



win 




Home Ideas 

and 
iEcONOMIE^Sfr 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 

paid for at reasonable rates. 



The Family Marketing and Budget 



I WONDER how many housewives 
reahze that much of the family com- 
fort depends on the way in which they 
market. 

There are three ways of marketing, 
namely : 

First, going to the market to select 
one's purchases; 

Second, having the grocer's boy call to 
take the order, and 

Third, giving the order to the grocery 
or market by telephone. 

Undoubtedly, the last is the easiest for 
the housewife, and some things can be 
said in its favor. She can think out 
carefully before hand just what she is 
out of, and needs for the day. She can, 
also, ask prices and find out something of 
the quality of the articles in question. 

Using the 'phone for marketing is con- 
venient, especially for the woman who 
keeps no maid, or is kept at home by 
small children. 

As to the grocer's call for the order, 
much can be said in favor of this plan 
for the grocer. For one thing, he is 
sure of the customer's trade. And he 
usually can make a larger sale, by having 
his boy or man well versed in the stock 
on hand, for the day. 

This way of marketing, also, has its 
advantages for the housewife, if she, too, 
is looking out for her interests and does 
not allow herself to order things she 
really does not need or care for, just to 
be obliging. It is a great comfort to feel 
tli^t, let the weather be what it may, the 



matter of food for the family has been 
provided for. 

Of the first method of marketing, that 
of going in person to the market and 
selecting one's eatables, much can be said 
in its favor. It may be the most eco- 
nomical or just the reverse, according to 
whether the house wife decides before 
going just what she. will and will not 
buy. 

I recently asked my grocer which of 
the three ways he preferred to have his 
customers use. "Oh," said he, 'T pre- 
fer to have them come to the store, for 
then they usually buy more on seeing the 
different things." 

Having tried all three methods, sepa- 
rately, and combined them all, at times, 
I think much depends upon how the 
housekeeper js situated as to the time at 
her disposal, her chance to get out, and 
very much on her ability to think out 
her orders carefully before she places 
them by any method. 

In conclusion, I would say that all 
three methods are good, but the house- 
wife must do the thinking, without which 
no method will be successful. 



Very closely related to the question of 
bills is the family expense budget. I 
have found it a great help in running a 
home to make up a monthly expense 
budget. Other concerns or institutions, 
which lay claim to business ability, have 
a monthly expense budget by which they 
are guided and by wdiich they compute 



468 



TTOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



469 



their profits or losses. Why should not 
the home be conducted on the same, sane 
basis? 

Something like the following budget 
may meet the requirements of the 
average home. Of course, it is for each 
housekeeper to make her own budget. 

Rent, or its equivalent in 

taxes, repairs, etc $ 

Groceries 

Meat 

Milk 

Other goods 

Light 

Fuel ■ 

Laundry ^ 

Labor 

Church 

Telephone 

Daily Paper 

Total .^ 

If the housewife has an allowance, as 
she should, on which to run the house, 
she can soon tell, by comparison with her 
budget, whether she is running it within 
the means allotted for that purpose. In 
this way she can curtail or increase her 
expenditures and always know just how 
she stands financially — a very good thing 
for a housewife to know. Any woman 
who gives such a plan a fair trial will 
never, I feel sure, go back to a random 
way of dealing with her end of the 
partnership. s. s. m. 

* * * 

The Art of Stewing 

STEWING is a method of food 
preparation that approaches the 
soup-making process. It is to some ex- 
tent a proceeding that occupies a middle 
position between boiling and baking ; the 
latter is often called roasting. In stew- 
ing the cook's endeavor should be to ex- 
tract from the meat its nutritive juices, 
and then to employ those juices, suitably 
treated, to finish cooking the remainder 
of the meat. For successful stewing, the 
most important point is the power of 



regulating the heat at which the opera- 
tion is conducted. In order to stew suc- 
cessfully, the heat must be absolutely 
under the cook's control. The up-to-date 
cook, therefore, prefers gas for stewing 
purposes on account of the perfect con- 
trol that can be exercised over the tem- 
perature. 

For successful stewing, meat should be 
divided into small portions for the easy 
extraction of the juices. Where bones 
exist, these should be broken into small 
pieces, and form an under layer in the 
stewing vessel. The meat and bones 
ought always to be placed in cold water, 
and the water should cover everything 
in the pan or jar. The lid or cover 
should be carefully secured, and the tem- 
perattire must be gradually raised to a 
steady heat, which must, of course, be 
below boiling. The extraction of the 
meat juices then proceeds, and when 
vegetables are to be added to the stew 
they are placed in the vessel at a later 
stage. Boiling and stewing are by no 
means the same process. The proper 
temperature for stewing is about 180 
degrees, Fahr. As almost everybody 
knows, the boiling point is 212, Fahr. 

A glazed earthenware jar with a tight- 
fitting cover is most useful for stewing 
meat, or for making soups. If it has no 
cover, one should be constructed by 
fitting a plate or saucer on top of the jar 
and brown paper should then be tied 
over it. A jar with a cover saves this 
trouble, and is, therefore, worth the 
extra expense. Earthenware or stone 
jars are very easily kept clean, and food 
does not spoil when left in them, as it 
may do if left in a metal pan. They can 
be placed on the top of the stove or in 
the oven when it is necessary to re- 
heat the food contained in them, or if 
placed in a pan of boiling water the 
contents of the jar will cook slowly with- 
out attention from the cook. A meat 
stew can be served in the jar in which it 
has been cooked, if it is neither too large 
nor too high. It must, of course, be 
wiped dry and a napkin may be neatly 



470 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



folded around it. By this process the 
great advantage of a very hot dinner 
may be obtained in the coldest weather, 
even when the whole family does not 
reach the home at exactly the same hour, 
as a stone or earthenware jar, having 
been thoroughly heated, will retain the 
heat for some time. l. i. 

* * * 

School Lunches 

I AM not so far removed from the time 
that I carried a lunch box as not to 
have some ideas about the matter, also, 
I have had ample opportunity to note the 
contents of the average child's dinner- 
pail. 

Greater simplicity seems to me to be 
the desideratum — less cake and pie, and 
more of the substantials. A bit of meat 
or cheese or a hard-cooked egg is an ad- 
dition to good bread and butter much 
coveted by most youngsters. And in the 
country, where fresh eggs can be had 
nearly the year around, they should hold 
a large place in the average child's 
lunch. 

Eggs have been analyzed and found 
to contain a chemical known as lecithin — 
one egg having as much as 16 grains of 
this substance, hence just one egg eaten 
a day will give tone, vitality and activity 
to the brain and nerves. This will make 
man "50 per cent, efficient." Never be 
guilty of putting a soft-cooked egg into 
a lunch-pail. It is unhandy and untidy to 
eat. Enjoy these at the table, in the 
home. I believe many pupils do not do 
satisfactory school work because men- 
tally starved. They eat enough, of 
course, but their diet is hit-and-miss, and 
their food is often lacking in the very 
things most needed to vitalize the mental 
forces. 

Anyone that carries a lunch eats under 
great disadvantages. The food is cold. 
This of itself is a hindrance to digestion 
and takes much of the body-heat. The 
eating is accomplished as speedily as pos- 
sible, hence the mastication is neglected 



and this means more work for the 
stomach and affects the nerves. 

Let those that put up the lunch see 
that it is given a neat and dainty appear- 
ance. Children appreciate it. Put a 
napkin in his pail. Occasionally 
let him find a handful of shelled 
nuts (walnuts, almonds, chestnuts) 
or fat raisins or currants, or a 
few bits of rock candy, taffy or a cara- 
mel stowed away in the corner of the 
box. It will prove a delightful *'find" to 
the child. Encourage children to eat the 
dainty after the other food. 

The old-fashioned nutcake or dough- 
nut that used to be common in old fami- 
lies is an excellent cake for the lunch- 
box. 

Then teach the children not to bolt 
their food. Reward them in some way, 
that will readily suggest itself to the 
judicious parent, for taking a long time 



to eat. 



F. M. c. 



* * * 
Non-Flesh Food 

Vegetarians regard this to be an op- 
portunity of suggesting the adoption of 
a vegetarian diet, since it is a fact capa- 
ble of scientific proof, that a nourishing, 
healthy diet may be provided from vege- 
tarian foods at less cost than when flesh 
is used. Beans, peas, lentils, and cheese 
contain, weight for weight, more^ nutr^z.^ 
ment than do beef, mutton, or poultry. 

Brown bread used in place of white 
will help the food value of a meal. 

Wholemeal makes more nourishing 
puddings, cakes, sauces, than does white 
flour; the cost is the same, or less. 

Potatoes should always be boiled, 
baked, or steamed in the skins. Peeling 
potatoes is so often attended by waste. 

The steaming of vegetables, instead of 
boiling will prevent the most valuable 
part of these foods being lost. If boil- 
ing is preferred, the water in which they 
have been boiled should be utilized for 
soup stock, just in the same way as meat 
stock is used. 




7/e rie s 

and 

oyfhszoers 




T^HIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes, 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus remit SI.OO. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cookikg-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 2454. — "Recipe for a quick, dark- 
colored Nut Bread." 

Quick, Dark Xut Bread 



2 cups pastry flour 
1 cup rye meal 

1 teaspoonful salt 

3 slightly rounding 
teaspoonfuls baking 
powder 



1 ^Z?, 

\ cup molasses 
\ teaspoonful soda 
1 cup sweet milk 
1 cup nut meats, 
chopped fine 



Sift together the first four ingredients ; 
stir the soda into the molasses, add the 
milk, and the tgg beaten light, and stir 
these and the nuts into the dry ingredi- 
ents. Let stand in a buttered bread pan 
fifteen minutes, then bake three-fourths 
of an hour. 



Query No. 2455. — "Recipe for the cooking 
of a Calf's Head, with Sauce Vinaigrette." 

Cooking a Calf's Head 

A calf's head with tongue and 
brains (more especially the brains) is 
considered a great delicacy. The 
brains may be bought apart for about 
thirty cents a set ; but the whole head, 
including the brains and tongue, is 
sold for the same price. In buying 
the head have it dressed (split apart 
and unedible portions removed) be- 
fore it is sent home, then soak and 
scrub in cold water. Put over the fire 
to cook in cold water; when the water 
boils, pour it ofif and cover again with 
cold water, thus blanching it. When 
the head becomes somew^hat cold, rub 
over with the cut side of a lemon, and 
cover with boiling water; add two or 
three tablespoonfuls of white wine, 



vinegar, or lemon juice, a bay leaf, an 
onion, pierced with half a dozen 
cloves, a few slices of carrot and 
sprigs of parsley, cover and let simmer 
until tender. Take out the bones, lay 
the meat, compactly, on a baking dish 
rubbed over with fat; spread the meat 
with half a cup of cracker crumbs 
mixed with two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter and let brown in 
the oven, then slide to a serving dish. 
Serve with any hot, rich sauce. 

Calf's Head Vinaigrette 

Cook the tongue with the head as 
above. Soak the brains in cold water 
several hours, changing the water 
several times. Tie in a cheesecloth 
and let simmer twenty minutes in 
highly seasoned stock. Set the meat 
from the head without bones in the 
center of the dish, the tongue freed 
of skin and split in halves, lengthwise, 
at the ends and the brains at the sides 
of the dish. Garnish with cress or 
parsley and pass a cold vinaigrette 
sauce with the dish. To make the 
sauce, stir six tablespoonfuls of oil, 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
a tablespoonful, each, of grated onion, 
chopped parsley, capers and white of 
^^g until blended. The meat may 
also be jellied with the broth, well 
seasoned, in a mold. To serve, cut in 
slices and serve wath lettuce, celery, 
cress or endive and the vinaigrette 
sauce. 



471 



472 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Query Xo. 2456. — "Recipes for Mocha Cake 
with Frosting, Bread Sticks, Salad Sticks, 
Hard and Soft Gingerbread." 

]Mocha Cake ^yi\h Frosting 

A "niocha"' cake takes its name from 
the frosting, the foundation of which 
is butter. The frosting being exceed- 
ingly rich, a sponge cake is commonly 
prepared. Any recipe for sponge cake 
may be used. The common recipe can 
scarcely be improved upon. For this 
the proportions are : five eggs, one 
cup, each, of sugar and sifted flour and 
the juice and grated rind of half a 
lemon. Half a cup of potato flour in 
the place of the full cup of ordinary 
pastry flour gives an exceedingly deli- 
cate and feathery cake and one that is 
not tough in the least. Recipes for 
mixing a sponge cake have been given 
repeatedly in these pages and may be 
found in any cook book written by a 
trained teacher of cookery. 

Mocha Frosting 

Beat one cup- of butter to a cream 
(if very salt wash out the salt), then 
gradually beat in two cups of sifted 
confectioner's sugar, and, drop by 
drop, coftee extract to tint and flavor 
as desired. If coffee extract be not at 
hand, use cold black coffee. The de- 
coction must be very strong or too 
much liquid will be used in getting the 
desiied flavor. If the icing is to be 
put on with a pastr}' bag and tube, 
twice the quantity given can easily be 
used. 

Bread Sticks 



1 cup scalded milk 
1 cake compressed 

yeast 
4 cup lukewarm 

water 



1 tablespoon ful sugar 
i teaspoonful salt 
An egg white 

2 tablespoonfuls 
butter 

Flour 

Make a sponge of the milk, yeast 
and flour; when light add the other 
ingredients, the white of egg beaten 
until light: when ready to shape, form 
into small balls, then roll (without 
flour) on the board with the hands, 
until strips, uniform in size and in 



shape of a thick lead pencil, are 
formed. Set to rise in a pan designed 
for the purpose, leaving them full or 
half-length, as desired. Before rolling, 
wait until the balls (closely covered) 
are very light. 

Bread stick pans are concave, to 
give a round shape to the bread. We 
know no preparation designated as 
salad sticks. They probably are the 
same as bread sticks. 

Hard Gingerbread 

Of course, there are numerous 
recipes for hard gingerbread; the best 
we have tried is that known as Xew 
York gingerbread. Yellow ginger 
contains tumeric, thus the full quan- 
tity designated in this recipe will give 
no more ginger than is required. This 
gingerbread is not as hard as some of 
the gingerbreads given as "hard" ! 
gingerbread. 

Xew York Gingerbread 

h cup butter 
1 cup sugar 
- eggs 

i cup molasses 
h cup milk 



2 cups flour 

3 tablespoonfuls y 
low ginger 

i teaspoonful soda 



el- 



Mix in the usual 
in a loaf or sheet. 



manner and bake 



Rochester Gingerbread (Soft) 



i cup butter 
h cup sugar 

2 eggs 

1 cup thick, sour milk 
1 cup molasses 

3 cups flour 

Bake in two brick-loaf pans or in a 
sheet or in a muffin pan. 



IJ teaspoonfuls soda 
1 teaspoonful ginger 
1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
4 teaspoonful cloves 



Query Xo. 2457. — "Have not been success- 
ful in making Sponge Cake with^ Potato 
Flour; kindly publish a good recipe giving all 
the details.'' 

Sponge Cake with Potato Flour 

5 eggs 

1 cup granulated 
sugar 

Beat the white: 
yolks until thick and 
gradually beat the s 



Grated rind and juice 
half a lemon 
i cup potato flour 

of the eggs dry, the 



light 



colored ; 
into the 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



473 



yolks, add the lemon juice and rind 
and fold in half of the whites; fold in 
the flour, then the rest of the whites. 
Turn the mixture into an unbuttered 
tube pan. Bake about fifty minutes. 
The mixture should be very light and 
fluffy when turned into the pan. Note 
that the ingredients are combined by 
beating and folding. See mixing and 
baking of sponge cake in a modern 
cook book. 



J cup melted butter 
2i cups soft bread 

crumbs 
2 cups sliced apples 

(pared and cored) 



Query Xo. 2458.— "Recipe for an Apple 
Pudding made with bread crumbs." 

Scalloped Apples 

Juice 1 lemon or 
orange and water to 
make i cup in all 

Grating of orange or 
lemon rind 

i cup sugar 

Mix the butter through the crumbs ; 
put these in a buttered baking dish 
with the apples, alternating the layers 
of crumbs and apples. Sprinkle the 
apples with the liquid, grated rind, 
sugar and a little salt. Have the last 
layer of crumbs. Bake about an hour. 
Serve hot with sugar and cream. Cin- 
namon or nutmeg may replace the 
lemon or orange. 



Query No. 2459. — "In the recipe for Cara- 
mel Cake, given in answer to query No. 2225, 
October number of the magazine, no baking 
powder appears in the list of ingredients; is 
this omitted intentionally?" 

Caramel Cake 



i cup butter 
1 cup sugar 
3 egg-yolks 

1 cup water 
3 teaspoonfuls cara- 
mel syrup 

2 cups sifted flour 
2 teaspoonfuls baking 

powder 
2 egg-whites 

Mix the cake in the usual manner; 
bake in a sheet and cover with the 
frosting, boiled as for fondant and 
beaten into the white of egg, beaten 
dry. 



Frosting 

1 cup sugar 
i cup water 

2 tablespoonfuls 
caramel syrup 

1 egg-white 

1 teaspoonful vanilla 



Dark Graham Bread 

J to 1 whole yeast 2 tablespoonfuls 

cake butter 

i cup lukewarm ^ cup molasses 

water 2i cu^s Graham flour 

I4 cups scalded milk H cups white bread 
1 teaspoonful salt flour 

Soften the yeast cake in the water. 
Melt the butter in the milk; add the 
salt and molasses and when lukewarm 
the yeast cake and water and stir in 
the flour. Sift the flour before measur- 
ing. Mix very thoroughly. The 
dough is not firm enough to knead. 
Cover and let stand until light, then 
cut the mixture with a knife, turning 
it over and over. Turn into a long, 
buttered bread pan and let stand until 
nearly doubled in bulk. Bake from 
fifty to sixty minutes. 



Query 2461. — "Recipe for Mincemeat With- 
out Meat." 

Mincemeat Without Meat 



1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
i teaspoonful cloves 
i teaspoonful mace 
i teaspoonful nutmeg, 

grated 
1 cup brandy 



2 lbs. chopped apples 

2 lbs. currants 
U lbs. raisins 

3 cups sugar 
1 lb. butter 
h lb. candied peel 

4 lemons grated, rind 
and juice 

Add the butter, softened, to the other 

ingredients; mix thoroughly, set aside, 

covered closely, in a cool, dry place. 

The mixture should be kept nearly a 

month before use. 



Query 
bread." 



Hard 



2462. — "Recipe for Hard Ginger- 

(Mrs. 



Gingerbread 
Lincoln) 

i teaspoonful salt 
1 level teaspoonful 

soda 
Flour for stiff dough 



Query No. 2460.— "Recipe for dark-colored 
Graham Bread made with yeast." 



i cup butter 

i cup sugar 

i cup milk 

i cup molasses 

i teaspoonful ginger 

Mix in the order given, dissolving the 

soda in the milk and mixing the salt and 

ginger in a little of the flour. Mix quite 

stifif, then knead till smooth and light; 

roll out one-third of an inch thick and 

to fit long shallow pans. Mark in half- 

inch strips with a pastry jagger and 

bake about fifteen minutes. 



474 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Query 2462. — "How should Potatoes be 
treated to insure Mealy Boiled Potatoes?" 

Mealy Boiled Potatoes 

Pare the potatoes, and, if large, cut 
them in halves, lengthwise; cover v^ith 
boiling vv^ater, add a teaspoonful of salt 
for each quart of w^ater, and let boil 
continuously until the potatoes are ten- 
der; drain off all of the water, dredge 
with salt and let stand, partially covered, 
for a few minutes, then serve at once. 
Salt has an affinity for water, and draw- 
ing out the water from the potato over 
which it is dredged, renders it mealy. 



Query 2463. — "Recipe for Frizzled Beef." 

Frizzled Beef 

Pull white thread-like portions from 
half a pound of thin-sliced, smoked or 
dried beef, cover with boiling water and 
let stand on the back of the range where 
the water will keep hot, but not boil, ten 
minutes ; drain and dry on a cloth. Melt 
two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying 
pan; put in the meat and stir while it 
absorbs the butter and curls or frizzles. 
Serve at once on a hot plate. For a 
change, pour over the frizzled meat a 
cup of hot cream, or a cup of hot cream 
sauce. The addition, at the last mo- 
ment, of a well-beaten egg makes a 
more nutritious dish. 



Query 2464.— "Recipe for Baked ^ Potatoes 
having a soft skin that may be eaten." 

Baked Potatoes with Soft Skin 

Select smooth potatoes of uniform 
size ; scrub thoroughly with a brush, 
wash and wipe dry, then rub over the 
outside of the potato with a piece of fat 
salt pork or with fat from bacon. Let 
bake in a hot oven until done. Serve as 
soon as they are baked. 



Query 2465. — "Recipe for a smooth Choco- 
late Sauce to serve on Ice Cream, etc." 

Chocolate Sauce 

Sift together, several times, one cup 
of granulated sugar and one-fourth a 
cup of cocoa ; pour on one cup of water 



at the boiling point, and stir until the 
sugar is dissolved ; when cold and ready 
to use stir in one teaspoonful of vanilla 
extract. 



Query 2466. — "Recipe for Philadelphia Rel- 
ish." 

Philadelphia Relish 



1 pint cabbage 

2 green or red pep- 
pers 

1 teaspoonful celery 
seed 



h teaspoonful mustard 

seed 
i teaspoonful salt 
i cup brown sugar 
i cup vinegar 



Measure the cabbage after chopping 
(both cabbage and peppers should be 
chopped exceedingly fine). Mix all to- 
gether. Use at once, or later on. Keep 
in a cold place. 



Query 2467. — "Recipe for Grilled Egg 
Plant." 

Grilled Egg Plant 

Cut the tgg plant in halves, length- 
wise, then cut each half in slices, half 
an inch thick, and remove the peel; 
brush over with olive oil or melted 
butter, and pat in sifted, soft bread 
crumbs seasoned with salt and paprika. 
Broil over a moderate fire eight to ten 
minutes, turning often. Set on a hot 
dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and 
dot, here and there, with bits of butter. 



Query 2468. — "Recipe for one loaf of a Pud- 
ding made with yeast and served with rum 
sauce." 



Baba 



i cup scalded and 

cooled milk 
i cup mixed raisins 

and sliced cherries 
2 cups sugar 
1 cup water 
i cup rum 



2 cups bread flour 

i cup and 2 table- 
spoonsful butter 

4 eggs 

1 tablespoonful sugar 

4 teaspoonful salt 

1 cake compressed 
yeast 

Crumble the yeast into the milk; mix 
thoroughly, then stir in flour (from the 
quantity given) to make a dough; knead 
the dough until smooth and elastic, then 
cut in both directions, across the top, 
to the depth of one-fourth an inch ; drop 
the dough into a small saucepan of luke- 
warm water. Into a mixing bowl con- 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



475 



taining the rest of the flour with the 
sugar, salt and butter (softened but not 
melted) break two of the eggs; with 
one hand, beat the mixture until it is 
smooth throughout, then break in 
another egg and again beat until smooth ; 
finally, break in the fourth egg and 
when this is smoothly incorporated into 
the mixture and the yeast is a light 
porous mass floating on the water, care- 
fully lift the yeast (to take no more 
water than is possible) to the beaten 
egg-mixture, and again beat until 
smooth; beat in the fruit and turn the 
mixture into a thoroughly buttered 
Turk's head mold. When the mixture 
fills the mold, bake half an hour. Mean- 
while, cook the sugar and water to 
220° F. by the sugar thermometer ; let 
cool, add the rum and when the baba is 
turned from the mold, turn the syrup 
over it. Baste the baba with the syrup 
that it may absorb it uniformly. Serve 
hot or half-way hot. The mold should 
hold a quart. 



Query 2469.— "For the benefit of young girls 
\vill you give some information on the propor- 
tion in which Seasonings are used?" 

Quantity of Seasoning 

Peoples tastes differ as to the quantity 
of salt and pepper, or other seasoning, 
that is palatable; but as seasonings can 
be added more easily than they can be 
taken away, it were well to season too 
little rather than too much. In general, 
a teaspoonful of salt will season one 
quart (four cups) of material, liquid or 
solid; then half a teaspoonful would 



suffice for a pint (two cups) and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful for one cup. Pap- 
rika may be used in the same quantity; 
black pepper is often cut down in meas- 
ure slightly and one-half or one-third 
the measure of cayenne will be quite 
enough for anything but high seasoning. 



Query 2470. — "How may one judge of the 
size of the pans to be selected for baking 
cakes, puddings and pies?" 

Size of Pans for Baking 

In choosing a pan to bake a cake, 
something depends on the consistency of 
the batter; but, in general, if the mixture 
before baking fills the pan to three- 
fourths its height, the pan should be full 
when the cake is baked. In making a 
pudding, estimate the quantity of liquid, 
milk, eggs, sugar (one-half the measure), 
etc., and allow a little extra for the solid 
ingredients. A squash, custard or sim- 
ilar pie with a raised edge may be filled 
to within one-third or one-quarter of 
an inch from the edge of the plate — 
not rim of pastry. 



Query 2471.— "Recipe for Gold Cake con- 
taining eight yolks of eggs, made with either 
baking powder or cream of tartar." 

Gold Cake 



4 level teaspoonsful 
baking powder 

1 teaspoonful orange 
extract 



i CUD butter 

I cup sugar 
8 yolks of eggs 
i cup milk 

II cups flour 

In place of the baking powder, use 
half a level teaspoonful of soda and a 
slightly-rounding teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar. 



O Bright New Year! 



O BRIGHT NEW YEAR! Hast thou in store 
Health, happiness, success, complete, — 
Or sorrow, sadness and defeat, 

With petty trials by the score? 

Be kmdly lenient, we implore 

In blending bitter with the sweet, 

O BRIGHT NEW YEAR! 



Grant us a faith to tide us o'er 

Whatever problems we may meet. 
And may our hearts be more replete 

With sympathy than heretofore. 

O BRIGHT NEW YEAR! 

Caroline Louise Sumner. 



Reducing Cost of Delivery in St. Paul, Minn. 



By Mrs. D. W. MacCourt 

From Housewives League Magazine 



A STRONG effort is now being made 
in St. Paul to reduce the cost of 
delivery, and in this movement the trade 
and the Housewives League are co- 
oi)erating closely. 

The Retail Grocers' Association has 
taken up the matter of co-operative de- 
livery, and, needless to say, the St. Paul 
Housewives League has approved the 
plan. Co-operative delivery systems 
have already been established in about 
a hundred Minnesota towns through the 
efforts of the Minnesota Retail Grocers' 
Association and the General Merchants' 
Association. The St. Paul housewives 
are asking the city grocers to consider 
the possibility of establishing a central 
depot from which deliveries may not 
only be made, but where orders may 
also be taken for all the concerns inter- 
ested. 

Meantime, one of our leading food 
stores has boldly cut the Gordian knot 
by discontinuing the delivery of small 
packages. The reasons for this innova- 
tion can best be given by quoting from 
the letter in which the president of the 
company in question communicated his 
intentions to the Housewives League. 
He said: 

''After due trial and consideration we 
have decided to discontinue the main- 
tainance of a delivery for small packages 
or orders. We find that to satisfy the 
almost hourly demands of about one- 
third of our customers a delivery system 
must be maintained at an enormous ex- 
pense. The expense must, necessarily, 
be added to the first cost of merchandise, 
and, of course, the other two-thirds, who 
do their own marketing, are paying the 
same ratio of expense as the one-third 
who do not. This expense we have 
decided to eliminate and divide the sav- 
ing with our patrons. 



"The considerate and frugal house- 
wife who does her ovv'n marketing and 
pays cash should be favored. Instead, 
however, you will find that the charge 
customer, who seldom, if ever, visits the 
market, and who by her exorbitant de- 
mands imposes on you this large expense, 
is the one who receives most considera- 
tion from the merchant. This, we feel, 
is not fair to the housewife who pays 
cash and is trying to reduce the cost of 
living by selecting her own foods, and 
who knows, by actual seeing and testing 
before she buys, that she is buying to 
the best advantage. 

"Now, as to the method of overcoming 
this one-sided condition. This is a dif- 
ficult problem to solve. We have thought 
of the following as being the most feas- 
ible and adequate plan. 

"We will sell to* our patrons coupon 
books, the coupons to be of various de- 
nominations to meet the requirements 
and to be used the same as money. These 
books would be of three amounts, three 
dollars, five dollars and ten dollars, a 
discount to be deducted from the full 
value of the book when sold. They would 
be gotten . up in such a manner as to 
represent a pocketbook. 

"The question of discount is the next 
consideration. To arrive at the proper 
discount, one that will allow the mer- 
chant to make a legitimate profit and still 
give the housewife her legitimate share, 
is very hard for this reason. Some 
articles of food will allow a greater dis- 
count than others. Custom and tricks of 
the trade have made it so. To arrive 
at a basis of percentage on the food 
products we handle we have figured each 
individual item. 

"While it is true we carry nearly all 
articles of food, a large part of our busi- 
ness is butter, eggs and cheese, on which 



476 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




VurG Food 

Jvom 

^ Clean Tactorif 



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-*- how absolutely immaculate are all the appointments, you would use 
this wholesome product for all cooking. No kitchen can be so clean 
and wholesome as this factor}'. The air which is pumped through the 
building is washed. The employees are dressed in spotless white. 

The floors and walls are of bright and sparkling tile; the machinery 
nickeled and enameled. From start to finish no hand touches Crisco. 



(RISCO 

^L for Frying -For 3h ortenjny 
^^-^ For Cake Making 



Since you probably cannot visit the Crisco plant, why not write for the 
little booklet (described below) that tells the tale of its making? It 
includes 615 practical cooking recipes prepared and tested by one of the 
best-known food experts in the country. 

Beautiful cloth-bound book of new recipes and a 
"Calendar of Dinners" for five 2 -cent stamps 

This handsome book by Marion Harris Neil gives 615 
excellent tested recipes. Also contains a "Calendar of 
Dinners"— a dinner menu for everv^ day in the year. The 
Calendar tells ivhat: the recipes tell hotv. Bound in blue and 
gold cloth. To those answering this advertisement it will 
be sent \ox five 2-cent stamps. Address Department A-1, 
The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio. 




Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
477 



478 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



we average less than fifteen per cent, 
profit. We, however, believe that this is 
a movement in the right direction and 
have decided that we can allow five per 
cent., which is considered a very liberal 
discount, on all staple articles of food, 
such as butter, eggs, sugar and a great 
many other items. 

"Our prices will be at all times, on 
the average, lower than for foods of the 
same quality in other markets, which 
must add the direct and indirect cost of 
maintaining a delivery to their prices. 

*'If all of our present patrons take ad- 
vantage of the five-per-cent. discount, 
we will save them about $1,000 per 
month or $12,000 per year. Isn't this 
worth while and deserv^ing of deep con- 
sideration ? Some one must start the 
ball rolling in the right direction. Why 
not us? I trust you will bring this mat- 
ter before your members and would ap- 
preciate very much your valuable com- 
ments, suggestions and criticisms." 

In the letter which it addressed to its 
patrons on the subject, the firm main- 
tained that the high cost of living to-day 
was principally due to the enormous ex- 
pense of maintaining a delivery system 
sufficient to meet the almost hourly de- 
mands of city trade for the delivery of 
small purchases. In closing it said : 

"Join the Housewives League and help 
us put down the high cost of living." 

The system actually went into opera- 
tion on October 5. 

Besides co-operating in all these move- 
ments toward the lowering of delivery 
costs, St. Paul housewives are tr}nng to 
eliminate duplication in the delivery of 
milk. We propose to do this through a 
Citizens' Milk Depot, and we hope that 
the idea will be taken up by every city 
in the land, as the cost of delivery adds 
greatly to the cost of our milk supply. 

We have already put into operation a 
plan which gives us a refund of fifty 
cents on every five dollars' worth of milk 
that we buy. We pay the driver five 
dollars for a book containing five dol- 



lars' worth of milk tickets, and when we 
return the empty covers of the book we 
get fifty cents as interest on our money. 
This means good interest for the house- 
wife and the use of ready money, with 
the practical elimination of bookkeeping 
for the milk company. It is just good 
business all around. 

An appropriation of $40,000,000 has 
just been made by Congress to further 
agricultural and rural interests through- 
out the country, with the proviso that 
each State shall raise for the same pur- 
pose a sum equal to her share of the 
grant. Minnesota's share is $40,000, and 
she must, therefore, raise another $40,- 
000 in order to get it. 

As one-third of the appropriation is to 
be devoted to the improvement of farm 
homes, the Minnesota Housewives 
League has initiated a campaign to se- 
cure the appropriation for the State and 
devise plans for its use. 

This is one of the most important op- 
portunities ever oflFered to the State to 
improve its rural homes and further the 
reduction of the cost of living by keep- 
ing people on the farms. We consider, 
therefore, that the most important and 
effective work we can do, during the 
coming year, will be to get the State to 
appropriate this money. 



If people would but understand that 
they are not the sons of some fatherland 
or other, nor of governments, but are 
sons of God, and can, therefore, neither 
be slaves nor enemies, one to another — 
those insane, unnecessary, worn-out per- 
nicious organizations called governments, 
and all the sufferings, violations, humili- 
ations, and crimes w^hich they occasion, 
would cease. — Leo Tolstoy. 



Outwitted 

He drew a circle that shut me out — 
Heretic, rebel, a thing to flout. 
But Love and I had the wit to win : 
We drew a circle that took him in. 

Edwin Markham. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






Only the best and purest malt 
vfaiegar-made in our own brewer 
ics.on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England-is used. 

h Uket over two yeaw of cmreful preparatloa 
Md tf «inf to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 

K food wine c«nnot be nude in a day—neither 
«•• Holbrook's Sauce. 



**!! U betUr U om •> 
•auo« at all tkaa a mmq 
tkat M not Holkrsak's.'' 



HOLBROOKS 

^aRGES^RSHIRE 

nsi\ucE: 



Principles of Food Preparation o 



MANUAL FOR STUDENTS 
F HOME ECONOMICS 



By MARY B. CHAMBERS, B.S., A.M. 



Formerly Instructor of Normal Classes in Domestic Science, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, N. Y.- Professor of 
Domestic Economy and Head of the Department, The James Milliken University, Decatur, Illinois: Professor 
of Chemistry and Home Economics, and Head of the Departments, Rock ford College, Rock ford, Illinois 



CLOTH, 272 PAGES, 37 ILLUSTRATIONS, $1.00 NET, POSTAGE 15 CENTS 



Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the Inductive System. Each chapter has five parts: 
I— Selected recipes, great variety from w^hich to choose, selected because they illustrate the principles studied in the chapter. 11 — 
List of topics for study or discussion, the topics including correlated subjects, bearing on the work of the chapter. Ill — Questions on 
the lesson, so framed as to stimulate in the student the ability to generalize. IV — Practical exercises to encouraga original application 
of the principles learned. V — Several smiple experiments in the chemistry and analysis of food. 

Valuable appendices. A series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 1 00 colorie portion of the same foods cooked. 
Time tables for cooking. Detailed Ibt of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students. 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 



By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Teacher of Cooking in the Piiblic 
Schools of Brookline, Mass. 



CLOTH, 272 PAGES, ILLUSTRATED, $1.00 NET, POSTAGE 15 CENTS 



THIS BOOK is desig-ned for the use of teachers in the elementary schools and also for use as a text book in such schools when a text book on 
cooking is desired. The book is divided into thirty -seven chapters or lessons, and contains a full and complete course in cooking, besides outlining 
snpplementary work. This is just the book for which teachers and schools have been looking. Indeed, we do not see how any teacher of cooking 
can be without this book. 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

BOSTON, MASS. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
479 



The Silver Lining 



''Whenever he calls at the house," said 
Mrs. Twickembury, *'she pays the most 
acidulous attention to him." "Serves 
lemonade to him, I suppose," commented 
Mr. Twickembury. 



Mother (at the breakfast- table) : "You 
always ought to use your napkin, 
Georgie." Georgie: "I am usin' it. 
Mother, I've got the dog tied to the leg 
of the table with it." 



Nervous Lady Passenger (to deck- 
hand) : "Have you ever seen any worse 
weather than this. Mister Sailor?" Deck- 
hand : "Take a word from an old salt, 
mum ; the weather's never very bad while 
there's any females on deck a-makin' 
henquiries about it." — -Pick-me-up. 



Little Eunice was very fond of her 
mother's friend, Mrs. Clayton, who had 
stopped in for a few moments on her 
way to an afternoon party. Little 
Eunice gazed at her for several seconds, 
speechless with admiration, and then 
burst out delightedly, "O Mrs. Clayton, 
you look just like a fashion dish!" — 
Youth's Companion. 



Oscar Wilde once asked at a restaurant 
for a watercress sandwich, which 
proved to be a more substantial affair 
than he expected. In settling his score 
he said to the waiter: "Tell the cook, 
with the compliments of Mr. Oscar 
Wilde, that when I ask for a sandwich, 
I distinctly do not mean a loaf with a 
field in the middle of it." 



On the way to the station, Father 
O'Leary ran into his bishop. "Well, 
what's the hurry, O'Leary?" said he. 
"Sure, it's the Dublin express I'm after, 
your lordship." The bishop pulled out 
his gold watch. "Well, there are seven 
minutes yet. Let us walk together and 
both catch it." They arrived at the sta- 
tion in time to see the train steaming out. 
"Do you know, I had the greatest faith 
in that watch, O'Leary," said the bishop. 
"Ah, my lord, what is faith without good 
works?" replied the angry O'Leary. — 
Saturday Journal. 



"Will," said she, "I am afraid my bank 
is in a bad way." "How foolish, Mabel ! 
It's one of the strongest financial insti- 
tutions in the State. Whatever got that 
idea into your head?" "Well, it's very 
strange," replied Mabel, unconvinced. 
"They've just returned a check of mine 
for $40 marked 'No Funds.' ''—Harper's 
Magazine. 

480 



And Yet 

There's a formal little notice, I very often see, 
So cheerful with its boundless scope of 

possibility, 
James H. Smith denies the rumor, that his 

daughter, Rose Marie, 
Is engaged to marry William Brown of 

Boston by the sea. 

Now the names may differ widely, but the 
meaning is the same, 

How gay the measure that they tripped be- 
fore they got the name; 

Ah, but Henry was devoted, sweetly Rose had 
played her game — 

All the friends and neighbors knew it, e're it 
reached the Hall of Fame. 

There's a touch of pathos in it, of that there's 

not a doubt, 
If things had gone as far as that and then 

they should fall out — 
Did heartless parents intervene, did sweet 

Rose Marie pout. 
Was Henry's bank account too small, what 

caused the final rout? 

Now it very often happens, and here's the 

cheerful side. 
Before the season's over, fair Rose Marie's a 

bride. 
There's a smart exclusive wedding, explain it 

if you can. 
The much denied, perhaps decried — yes, 

Henry is the man. 

Helen Forrest. 



// was deemed gluttonous to linger long over a repast, and con- 
temptible to imbibe too freely of wine. — Banquets in Homeric age. 

Valentine Luncheons 



Canapes Lucile 

(heart-shaped) 

Breaded Lamb Chops 

Baked Potatoes, Suzette Style 

Panama Salad 

Cream Cakes, Chocolate Sauce 

Half Cups Coffee 

II. 

Valentine Appetizer 

Lamb Broth with Barley and Vegetables (heart- shapes) 

Chicken Salad. Valentine Style 

Hot Baking Powder Biscuits 

Jellied Macedoine of Fruit, Favorite 

Little Heart-Shaped Cakes 

Coffee 

IIL 

Halves of Grapefruit 

(Powdered sugar and hearts cut from cherries or fruit-jelly above) 

Heart-shaped Swedish Timbale Cases Filled with Creamed Chicken 

Cress-and-Green Pepper Salad 

Macaroni Croquettes 

Jellied Macedoine of Fruit, Favorite Style 

Coffee 

IV. 

Casaba Melon 

Bouillon 

Finnan Haddie, Garcia 

Hot House Cucumbers, Pearl Onions 

Chicken Salad, Valentine Style 

Hot Yeast Biscuits 

Raspberry Sherbet 

Little Heart-Shaped Cakes 

Coffee 



Chafing Dish Spread 

February 22nd 

Canapes Lucile 

Finnan Haddie, Garcia on Toast 

(Chafing Dish) 

Chicken Salad, Garnish : Pimiento Hatchets 

Baking Powder Biscuits 

Slices of Ice Cream 

(Cherry Decorations) 

Coffee 



American Cookery 



Vol. XIX 



FEBRUARY, 1915 



No. 7 



Twentieth-Century Wall Paper 

By Mary H. Xorthend 



as dark colors absorb the light. The 
use of a room, too, determines in a gen- 
eral way what colors should be used. 
Naturally we would choose a different 
color scheme for library and reception- 
room. For the library a subdued shade 
is best so that attention mav concentrate 



IX the wall hangings of to-day we 
often find a return to Colonial pa- 
pers, following the lines of the old 
masters. Chippendale subjects being 
often shown. This ^has been largely 
brought about by the Georgian feeling 
so popular to-day and shown in many 
of the twentieth-century houses. Many 
of these papers, while not actual repro- 
ductions, carry out the quaint oldtime 
atmosphere that some of the modern 
houses demand. 

The style of wall paper being an ever- 
changing one leads many home builders 
to select their wall hangings with such 
special care that they will never be no- 
ticeably out of style. It is very inter- 
esting to observe the study which is be- 
ing spent to-day on papers used on mod- 
ified Colonial as well as other all-the- 
year-round homes. 

One should remember that in selection 
of wall paper that the color scheme not 
only of each individual room must be 
taken into consideration, but the rooms 
as a whole, so that pleasing vistas may 
meet the eye as one views these differ- 
ent rooms in succession. 

Good taste in selection requires the 
omission of odd, prominent colors and 
designs, that the paper be subdued and 
self-effacing, in order to form a good 
background for the furniture. If the 
wall surface has to depend on hangings 
alone, the exercise of good taste is dou- 
bly important. A poorly lighted r-oom 

should never be hung with a dark cok)r, found in endicott house. Portsmouth, n.h 

507 




508 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



on books and not be distracted by sur- 
roundings, while the reception-room 
should have a pleasing color scheme, giv- 
ing the effect of hospitality and of wel- 
come. 

Definite color schemes help out in se- 
lections in wall hangings which may be 
carried out in paint, wall and floor cov- 
erings, also in furniture and hangings. 
Attention to these details make or mar 
the harmonious atmosphere of the home. 




A FINE FRENCH DESIGN 



The hall being the first interior view 
of the house and the keynote to the home 
should present a hospitable atmosphere, 
as first impressions are often strongest. 
Only too often this part of the house is 
badly lighted and gloomy. A warm col- 
ored paper will greatly remedy this de- 
fect by diffusing the light and giving an 
impression of brightness. The size of 
this room should, also, be taken into con- 
sideration, in the fitting of the w^all 
hangings. A Colonial hall with tiled 
wainscot looks well with a frieze of pic- 
ture paper above the woodwork. There 
are. also, beautiful papers in bird and 
flower designs which can be used when 
no pictures are hung. Otherwise a more 
conventional design of less obtrusive 
tone is desirable. 

From the George Washington home at 
Mt. \"ernon has been reproduced a won- 
derful old wall paper. It was originally 
found on the back hall of the old home, 
having a most beautiful coloring of 
burnt-olive background with figures in 
red and brown. A recent print of this 
paper has been made, leaving out the 
orange background, in two-toned gray 
and in gray and rose. The sentiment of 
the paper as well as its artistic beauty 
does much in making it popular for use. 

In the Longfellow house at Portland. 
Maine, is an old wall paper which has 
been reproduced. This can be obtained 
in a great variety of coloring, each one 
having its own peculiar charm. The 
piece reproduced has a black ground with 
designs in shades running from old ivory 
to brown, and is very popular in twen- 
tieth-century homes. This variety carries 
us back to the late seventeenth and early 
eighteenth centuries, where we find some 
of the best examples that have been in 
use. They were introduced by the com- 
ing in of larger and more expensive 
houses in Xew England. One of these 
can be found in the back hall of the Lee 
mansion at Marblehead. The original 
color was a background of gray and the 
floral designs were carried out in black 
and gray, while the pagodas are in light 



TWENTIETH CENTURY WALL PAPERS 



509 



lavender tone. The combination of these 
colors is most artistic, and, though sub- 
dued, distinctive, lending itself to mod- 
ern day ideas and giving a unique charm 
to a hall. 

An attractive hanging for a living- 
room is a satin striped moire paper, and 
if one prefers a less plain style, exqui- 
site borders of floral designs or a plain 
paper combined with figures can be used. 
Here also the Colonial idea may be car- 
ried out. There is a particularly beautiful 
one copied from Grinland Gibbons' carv- 
ing, the colorings being unusually beauti- 
ful with a background of pale Chinese 
yellow, while the carvings are carried out 
in colors, ranging from old ivory to deep 
brown. This paper can be purchased to- 
day in almost any lines of coloring that 





PAPER AT MOUNT VERNON 



CHINESE CHIPPENDALE 

will suit the taste of the house owner, 
and is considered to be one of the most 
popular papers on the market. 

There is a modern-day paper carrying 
out old Chinese feeling. This is a par- 
ticularly brilliant example of Chinese 
work. The background is a deep blue, 
with subordinate part of the fretwork 
design in gold. The large figures appear 
in brilliant hues of coral red and Chi- 
nese yellow. This paper is typical of 
varieties brought back by old sea cap- 
tains from the Orient, and which are 
now found in rare instances in the par- 
lors of the old Colonial homes of the sea- 
port towns of New England. 

The romance and legends attached to 



510 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




IN PAUL REVERE HOUSE 

old houses often lend an additional 
charm to their wall papers. This is par- 
ticularly true of one that is on the liv- 
ing-room of the Paul Revere house at 
Boston, Mass. The background of the 
wall hanging is drab, while the design is 
carried out in black and shades of mus- 
tard brown. This paper has been repro- 
duced in many other shades, including 
cream and ivory, making it suitable for 
use in modern homes. 

One of the most interesting of these 
is an old wall paper found in a house 
in Virginia owned by Morris Eno. who 



was at one time proprietor of the Fifth 
Avenue Hotel in New York. Mr. Eno 
desired to have a reproduction of a pa- 
per made and blocks were cut especially 
for him at his expense, only enough pa- 
per being made for the hallways of the 
old mansion. It was provided that the 
blocks should not be used during the 
lifetime of Mr. Eno. It was only a few 
years ago that these blocks were dis- 
covered in an old store-room, and in 
looking up the records the foregoing 
facts were obtained. The paper is fin- 
ished in reproduction in two-toned gray 
colors. 

In Salem, Massachusetts, can be found 
some of the most interesting wall papers, 
probably, in the country. One of them 
shows an early attempt at Colonial 




OLD CHINESE DESIGN 



TWENTIETH CENTURY WALL PAPERS 



11 



Gothic, with a natural background, hav- 
ing old red, brown, green, and touches 
of Colonial blue coloring. There is also 
shown on an old Salem home another 
paper representing blocks, each one of 
which shows flowers. During the visit 
of one of the descendants of the builder 
of this ancestral mansion, by her earnest 
desire, a bit of the old wall paper that 
was practically past wear, was torn off 
and from it a wall-paper design was used 
on her summer home. 

Chippendale lent many ideas which 
have been reproduced in modern wall 
papers. One of them is an old Chinese 
Chippendale in rich brown colors, either 
black or brown background, the typical 
Chinese coloring, red, gilt and brown be- 
ing used. Many of Chippendale's de- 
signs are the most graceful of wall-paper 
designs, for, like his furniture, there was 



a certain grace in all his work, giving it 
a definite place in art. 

The Colonel Livingston mansion at 
Irvington-on-the-Hudson shows a won- 
derful old wall paper giving a design 
worked out in quaint old pastel coloring. 
This has been successfully reproduced 
and comes in white background with 
gray designs and also in gray back- 
ground, where the design is worked out 
in the quaint old pastel coloring. 

In Virginia are found many examples 
well worthy of reproduction, among 
them being a quaint chamber paper, an 
actual antique on a cream-gray back- 
ground with magenta flowers. 

Indeed, of all wall-papers, there is no 
end of varieties and the house owner of 
to-day desiring to give her walls a pic- 
turesque effect will do well to study the 
old-time wall papers. 




THE PAPER IS APPROPRIATE FOR HEIGHT OF ROOM 



Aristology — The Art of Dining 



An Historical Sketch 



By Charles Cooper 



BETWEEN the art of cookery and 
the art of dining there is a dis- 
tinction wider, perhaps, than is 
often recognised. That may be defined 
as creative art, and this as critical, and 
it by no means follows that the profes- 
sor of the one may be found expert in 
both. The cook of great accomplish- 
ment should certainly be the best of all 
competent guides in the arrangement of 
the perfect dinner, and so, indeed, he 
often proves to be ; but, as often, he has 
the defects of his qualities, and in the 
enthusiasm of his art he is betrayed into 
exaggeration and extravagancies. On 
the other hand, the epicure who judges 
by result may not be expert in process. 
He who invented the convenient word 
"Aristolog}%" to define comprehensively 
the dining art, was a lawyer, who prob- 
ably never attempted to cook any of the 
dishes served at the dinners about which 
he discoursed so well and wisely. 

Thomas W^alker was M. A. of Trinity 
College, Cambridge ; he was born in 
1784, became a barrister at law, and in 
1829 was appointed one of the Police 
Magistrates for London, which office he 
filled until his death in 1836. He was 
a many sided man, who, in most re- 
spects was much in advance of his time. 
There seem to have been few subjects 
upon which he did not hold strong opin- 
ions, and, as an effectual means of ven- 
tilating his theories, he conceived the 
idea of establishing a periodical to be 
written entirely by himself, through the 
medium of which he might communi- 
cate his views to the world at large. 
This publication, to which he gave the 
obviously appropriate name of ''The 
Original," appeared at somewhat irreg- 
ular dates from the 20th of May to the 
2nd of December, 1835 ; sometimes a 
fortnight elapsed between the appear- 



ance of the numbers, occasionally as 
much as six weeks, but, short as was 
the magazine's career, the author made 
it the medium for the publication of 
many thoughtful papers upon many sub- 
jects of social and political interest, 
such as Principles of Government, Pov- 
erty and Pauperism, Poor Law and 
Prison Reform, Christian Socialism, In- 
dustrial Economies, Nat