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Full text of "American cookery"



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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2013 



http://archive.org/details/americancookery19unse_0 



THE VOICE OF THE CREAM-PUFF 

J^MERICAN 
COORERJg; 

FOR,M.BRL,Y V * ^^ 

THE BOSTON 
lOORING SCHOOLMAGAZINE 

P- CULINARY- SCIENCLand DOMESTIC • ECONOMICS 










JUNE-JULY, 1913 

Vol. XX No. 1 



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PUBLISHED 
JBY 

THE BO^STON CGDKING 
JCHQDL MAGAZINE C^ 

372BOYLSTONS:, 
BOSTON MASS. 






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A Real Help^ t^u u ^ -t 

^ -^^ 1 he absolute purity, unirorm 

strength and keeping quality of 

Rumford make cooking results most 

^ dependable. The food is always whole- 

2g^j^U][rf some and of that fine, even texture sought 

for by all good cooks. 



Better 




^umfbrd 

^ THE WHOLESOME 

BAKING POWDER ' 

is a scientific preparation, being the result of extended research 
by the celebrated chemist Prof. E. N. Horsford, for many- 
years Professor of Chemistry in Harvard University. 

Write for Free copy of RUMFORD HOME RECIPE 
BOOK. It contains valuable information regarding Fire- 
less and Casserole Cookery as well as practical recipes. 



Rumford Chemical Works 



Providence, R. I. 



SpHEPOUHi 



wmm 



BKIMOj 
gpWPl 

Ifetie phosphate P*;Jji 
^^'Win baking qiwfliy"^ i 



An Entirely New Cook Book by Miss Farmer 

A NEW BOOK OF COOKERY 

By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

Author of "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book,'* Etc. 

With Eight Ctlored Plata and more than Tivo Hundred Illuttrationt in Half-T»nt 

Cloth, $1.60, net. By mail, $1.75 

Since its original publication, Miss Farmer's "Boston Cooking 
School Cook Book" has, in new editions, incorporated large addi- 
tions, but the wealth of new material — the result of experiments 
in the author's class rooms and embodied in recipes which have 
been thoroughly tested — has grown to such an extent that it has 
become necessary to incorporate it in a separate volume which 
forms an almost indispensable companion to the author's invalu- 
able "Boston Cooking School Cook Book." 

The " New Book of Cookery" contains more than eight hun- 
dred recipes upon all branches, including many new and import- 
ant dishes not to be found in any other work. It is profusely 
illustrated. 

LITTLE, BROWN & CO., Publishers - BOSTON 




American Cookery 



FORMERLY 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 



OF 



Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 



Volume XX 



June -July, 1915— May, 1916 




Published Monthly by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

Pope Bldg., 221 Columbus Ave., Boston, Mass. 



A 



Copyright, 1915, 1916, by The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 



COMPLETE INDEX, VOLUME XX 

June- July, 1915 — May, 1916 



According to Orders 282 

And Toadstools, Please 278 

Artichokes at Father Abraham's .... 684 

At First Hand — A New Year's Story . 435 
At the Sign of the Tea Kettle and Tabby 

Cat, 111 . 267 

Avocado and Ways of Using It, The '! . 632 

Balanced Dinners of Two Dishes .... 745 

Bide-a- Wee House, The 116 

Calorie Side of the Food Question, The . 781 

Camping the Year Round 221 

Carving Christmas Meats 382 

Caviare 542 

Chocolate 542 

Christmas Dream, A 365 

Clean Meats for All Comers 302 

College Conserves 514 

College Dietitian, The 460 

Coming of the Tea House, The 11 

Complete Housekeeping Apartment in a 

Single Room 747 

Corned Beef and Cabbage 602 

Crystallized Receipt, A 23 

Culinary Adventures in the Tropics . . . 444 
Disappearance of the General House 

Worker 314 

Dishes, Old and New, 111 102 

Domestic Engineering 299 

l^Mitorials 30, 118, 206, 286, 366, 446, 

526, 606, 686, 766 

Eggs and Easter Eggs 701 

Elizabethan HospitaHty 751 

Eternal Feminine, The Ill 

Extra Dollar, The 625 

Five Fish Stories by Uncle Sam 698 

Food and Feeding 380 

Food for the Sick Room 538 

Friendship 301 

FromtheSand-age to the Lawn-age, 111. . 347 

Frost in Spring 782 

Good Manners for Every Day ..... 682 

Grippe, The 784 

( iuest-houses and Guest-rooms 507 

Guide to Laundry Work, A .... 53, 136 
Home Ideas and Economies 56, 145, 227, 

306, 384, 464, 544, 627, 707, 785 

Homemaking; One Woman's Experience . 519 

Home O'Dreams, A 667 

House-Raised Winter Salads 462 

How to Eat an Orange 439 

How We Manage 132 

Ideal Kitchen of Today, The 224 

Impromptu Luncheons in Lent 588 

Judith's First Party 114 

Keeping Tab on the Teaspoon 621 

Kitchen Beautiful, The 619 

Let's Just Be Glad 193 

Mealtime in the Wilderness 783 

Menus 9, 41-43, 97, 130, 131, 185, 217, 265, 

297, 345, 378, 425, 458, 459, 505, 537, 

665,697,617,618,779, 780 

Merry Marauder, A 220 

Message, The 351 

Miracle-Maid, The 270 

Miss^Nancy's Christmas Box 357 



New Books 484, 558, 798 

New Solution of the Butter Problem, A . . 522 

New Way of Using Food-tables 219 

Nutritive Value of Foods 44 

Nuts are Nuts 304 

Object Lesson, An 105 

Olive, The 541 

On Mother s Baking Day 226 

Opportunity for Women, 111 187 

Outing and Inning, An 105 

Palace of Sponge Cake, The 758 

Panama- Pacific Exposition, The .... 20 

Parent-Teacher Association, The .... 275 

Phyllis — Our Cook 594, 674 

Pink Hollyhocks 223 

Points on Canning and Preserving, Jelly 

and Pickle Making 50 

Pretty Bungalow Amid Charming Sur- 
roundings 99 

Remodeling of River View, The 587 

Serving a Dinner of Eight or Ten Covers 

with One Maid 590 

Silver Lining, The 70, 160, 242, 316, 396, 

476,554,636,623, 800 

Six Successful Supper Picnics 47 

Summer Vacation at a Profit, A .... 442 

Talks to a Normal Class, . . 598, 679, 758 

Tea and the Tourist, 111 194 

Training the Bride's Maid 29 

Trial by Coffee, A 352 

Up-to-date Kitchen, The 427 

Voice of the Cream- Puff, The 16 

Wage-earning after Marriage 273 

West, The 543 

Where Angels Fear to Tread 107 

Wisdom of Solomon, The 362 

Woman's Picnic, A 763 

Wooden Fork and Spoon, A 431 

Work of the Witches 202 

SEASONABLE RECIPES 

Apples in Cranberry Juice 694 

Apples Glace, with Cherries, 111 374 

Apples Glace, with Marshmallows, 111. . . 453 

Artichokes, Jerusalem, Italian Style . . . 454 

Artichokes, Jerusalem, with Spanish Sauce 454 

Asparagus, Cold, Chiffonade Dressing, 111. 37 

Asparagus, Wilhelmina Style 777 

Asparagus, with Melted Butter, 111. ... 37 

Balls, Finnan Haddie, 111 530 

Balls, Popcorn, 111. 216 

Bananas, Baked, for Hash, 111 611 

Bavaroise, Apricot, with Snow Eggs ... 127 

Beef, Corned in Card Cases, 111 772 

Beef, Filet of. Roasted 372 

Beef, Pot Roast of, en Casserole 450 

Betty, Peach or Apple 129 

Biscuit, Baking Powder 457, 531 

Biscuit, Sweet Potato 294 

Blancmange, Sea Moss Farine 213 

Bombe Glace, Orange and Pineapple . . 212 

Bouillon, Clear Tomato 529 

Bouillon, Oyster 529 

Bouillon, Tomato with ( )vstcrs 690 

Bread, Potato ' 38 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cabbage, Creamed, au Gratin, 111. . . . 612 

Cake, Apple, with Filling, 111 695 

c:ake, Best, 111 215 

Cake, Christmas, with Candles, ill. . . . 375 

Cake, Cocoanut Chocolate, 111 616 

Cake, German Coffee, with Mixture for, 111. 694 

Cake, Inexpensive Sponge 38 

Cake, Plain While, 111 456 

Cake, Pound, in small tins 774 

C^ake, Spice, 111 773 

Cake, White 215 

Cake, White, 111 39 

Cake, White, Wild Rose Decoration, with 

Frosting 375 

Cakes, Five O'Clock Tea 457 

Cakes, Genoese, 111 695 

Cakes, Halloween, 111 216 

Cakes, Little Raisin 377 

Cakes in Paper Cases, 111 774 

Calf s Liver, Braised Italian Style .... 693 

Calf's Liver en Begue 209 

Canapes, Asparagus 769 

Canapes, Bacon 289 

Canapes, Egg-and-Caviarc 689 

Cards, Croquin, 111 776 

Cauliflower, Creamed, Au Gratin, 111. . . 292 

Caviare, Andalouse Style 369 

Celery, Creamed, with Poached Eggs 124 

Cheese Balls 453 

Cheese, Cottage, 111 296 

Chestnuts, Chocolate 377 

Chicken a la King, 111 693 

Chicken and Kornlet, Scalloped 210 

Chicken, Curry of, American Style, 111. . . 452 

Chicken, Fricassee of, Ancient Style, 111. . 692 

Chicken, Mississippi Style 209 

Chicken, Stewed with Cauliflower, 111. . . 290 

Chicken, Stewed with Oysters 209 

Chowder, Clam 121 

Chowder, Fresh Fish 769 

Cocktail, Crab-flake 369 

Cocktail, Watermelon 121 

Cocktail, White Grape, 111 370 

Cod Fish a la Point Shirley 690 

Conserve, Plum 214 

Consomme, Florentine, 111 689 

Cookies, Soft, Molasses 376 

Combread, Way Down South 36 

Corn, Creamed, au Gratin 126 

Corned Beef, Creamed, au Gratin . . . 532 

Crackers, Princess, 111 774 

Cream, Marshmallow-and-Nut 374 

Cream, Mock 40 

Cream, Pineapple 213 

Croquettes, Rice and Chicken, 111. ... 451 

Croquettes, Rice en Surprise 613 

Croquins, 111 696 

Custard, Baked in Cups, 111 536 

Custard, Frozen, 111. 296 

Cutlets, Breaded Veal 123 

Cutlets, Lobster, with Lobster Mousse . . 122 

Doughnuts, Thanksgiving, Yeast, 111. . . 295 

Dressing, Bread for Veal 35 

Dressing, Chiffonade 37 

Dressing, French 777 

Dressing for Fruit Salad 456 

Dressing, Plain Bread 292 

Dressing, Russian for Salad 534 

Duck, Roast Domestic, with Oranges, 111. 532 

Egg Balls for Lettuce Soup 33 

Egg Plant, Creole Style, 111 211 

Eggs, Poached 124 



Eggs Poached, under Glass Bell, 111. ... 290 

Eggs, Stuffed, for Picnics 124 

Eggs, with Spinach and Cheese .... 610 

Fining, Coffee 215 

Filling for Oyster Patties 691 

Filling for Pumpkin Pie with Honev ... 129 

Fish, Baked Turbans of. 111. ...'... 610 

Fish, Breaded White Lake, Baked ... 34 

Fondant, 111 296, 324 

Fondant, How to Use 324 

Frosting, Boiled, for White Cake .... 40 

Frosting, Maple Nut, 111 215 

Frosting, Marshmallow 457 

Fruit, Macedoine in Jelly, 111 535 

Fudge, Cherry 377 

Fudge, Maple Sugar 377 

Goodwins, 111. • • • • 296 

Grapefruit with Grapejuicc .... 529, 609 

Grapes, Glace, 111 377 

Greens, Beet, Moulded 36 

Haddock, Filets of. Stuffed with Lobster, 

111 770 

Haddock, Filets of. Stuffed with Mush- 
rooms 770 

Halibut, a la Aurore, 111 122 

Halibut, Breaded Hearts, Fried, 111. ... 371 

Halibut, Planked, 111 530 

Halibut, Turkish Style, 111 122 

Ham and Eggs au Gratin 533 

Ham, Sliced, en Casserole 612 

Hash, Corned Beef, Sam Ward, 111. ... 610 

Ice Cream, Lillian Russell Style, 111. ... 129 

Ice Cream with Pears, Helene, 111. ... 615 
Ice Cream with Toasted Marshmallows 

and Chocolate Sauce, 111 456 

Ice Cream Vanilla Junket 775 

Icing, Chocolate Marshmallow .... 215 

Jelly, Tomato, 111 211 

Johnny Cake, Rhode Island 212 

Jumbles 38 

Jumbles, Caraway Seed 536 

Jumbles, Orange, 111 376 

Lamb, Crown Roast of. 111 453 

Lamb, Neck of, en Casserole 372 

Macaroni, Baked with Cheese 532 

Macaroni, Creamed with Dried Beef, 111 . 612 

Mackerel, Baked with Oysters 692 

Mackerel, Broiled, Maitre d'Hotel Butter 680 

Mackerel, Broiled Salt 770 

Marmalade and Cream in Card Cases, 111, 776 

Marmalade, Kumquat, 111 694 

Molds, Crisp Card, 111 772 

Mousseline, Individual Salmon, 111. . . . 450 

Muffins, Cheese 536 

Muflins, Commeal, 111 212 

Mushrooms and Crab Meat in Ramekins 609 

Oatmeal, with Cheese 613 

Omelet, Mushroom, Hotel Style .... 777 

Onions Stuffed with Ham, 111 291 

Oysters, Fried, 111 690 

Parfait, Grape Juice, 111 774 

Parfait, Pineapple, 111 696 

Pastry, Flaky, for Chicken Pie, 111. ... 290 

Patties, Easy Oyster, 111 691 

Pears, Frozen Canned, 111 214 

Pears, Stuffed, Conde, 111 40 

Pie, Chicken, Casserole Style, 111 289 

Pie, Quince 294 

Pie, Rhubarb, with Meringue, 111 616 

Pie, Sweet Potato 294 

Pie, Vegetable Mince, 111 374 

Pies, Individual Chicken, 111 531 



COMPLETE INDEX 



Pies, Individual Meat, 111 35 

Potato, Crown of, with Lamb Rechaufee, 

111 371 

Potatoes, Baked Sweet, and Bacon ... 124 

Potatoes, Carameled Sweet, and Chestnuts 125 

Potatoes, Creamed, in Green Peppers . . 126 

Potatoes, Sweet, Cooked in Bacon, 111. . . 372 

Preserves, Pineapple and Pear 214 

Pudding, Chocolate Rice 776 

Pudding, Custard, 111 535 

Pudding, Delmonico, with Peaches, ... 775 

Pudding, Thanksgiving, 111 295 

Pudding, Swiss 615 

Puffs, Cocoanut, 111 376 

Puffs, Fruit 614 

Puffs, Potato, lU 294 

Quinces, Baked en Casserole 129 

Rehsh, Com 213 

Roast, Hamburg, en Surprise with Sauce, 

111 771 

Rolls, Poppy-seed, 111 373 

'■^alad, A Luncheon, 111 614 

dad, Apple and Raisin, 111 533 

dad. Avocado, 111 613 

..lad, Banana-and- White Grape, 111. . . 455 

alad, Birmingham 777 

Salad, Celery and Apple 293 

Salad, Chicken, St. Valentine Style, 111. . 534 
Salad, Cress and Cucumber, French Dress- 
ing 777 

Salad, Fresh Fish . . . . ' 534 

Salad, Frozen Fruit, 111 454 

Salad, JelHed Fruit 455 

Salad, Norma, 111 693 

Salad, Oyster 293 

Salad, Peach, Celer>', and White Grape, 111 . 213 

Salad, Plum and Cream Cheese, 111. . . 533 

Salad, Porto Rico 212 

Salad, Potato and Okra, 111 126 

Salad, Salmon and Green Pea, 111. ... 34 

Salad, Stuffed Beet, 111 614 

Salmon, Boiled, 111 34 

Salmon, Filet of, with Potato Balls, 111. . 449 

Salmon with Anchovy Sauce 449 

Sandwiches, American Pate de Foie Gras 457 

Sandwiches, Cream Cheese and Pimento 457 

Sandwiches, Mint 457 

Sauce, Chocolate, for Ice Cream .... 615 

Sauce, Cream Pudding, 614 

vSauce, Mint, for Roasted Lamb .... 613 
Sausage, with Fried Apples, Deerfoot Style, 

111 371 

Shortcake, Strawberr>% 111 34, 39 

Shortcakes, Peach, Blackberry, 111. ... 128 

Soiiffle, Grapejuice, 111 615 

Soup, Com 289 

Soup, Cream of Lettuce 33 

Soup, Cream of Onion 609 

Soup, Creole 129 

Soup, Green Pea and Spinach 121 

Soup, Split Pea 370 

Soup, Turkey Giblet 449 

Sponge, Blackberry- 129 

Squash, Summer, Baked with Bacon, 111. . 292 

Steak, Round, Italian Style, 111 611 

Stew, Irish, in Earthen Casserole .... 123 

Stew, 0>'ster 530 

strawberries and Cream in Card Cases, 111. 773 

Strawberries, Frozen, with Cream, 111. 38 

Strawberry Cup, 111 775 

Stuffing, Green, for Roast Chicken ... 291 
Tapioca, Pineapple, Sponge, Christmas 



Style, 111 374 

Toast, Sardine 33 

Tomatoes and Okra, Scalloped, 111. ... 210 

Tongue and Flank, Pickled Beef .... 292 

Tongue with Mayonnaise of Cauliflower . 292 
Tongue, SHced, with Mayonnaise of Kohl 

Rabi and Cauliflower 372 

Tripe, Creole Style 693 

Turnovers, Mock Cherry 294 

Veal, Brown Fricassee of 210 

Veal, Roast Filet of, 111 34 

Vegetables in Tomato Jellv, Mavonnaise 

of, 111 '...'.... 211 

Wafers, Bran 38 

Wafers, Mrs. Hill's Laxative 214 

Wafers, Swedish Almond 457 

Wafers, Choice Rumford 373 

QUERIES AXD ANSWERS 

Alligator Pears, Hilo Hawaii 634 

Apples, Evaporated 714 

Asparagus with Sauce 68 

Asparagus, au Gratin 70 

Asparagus Mousse 70 

Batter, Fritter 66 

Batter, Swedish Timbale 392 _ 

Beans, Canned Kidney, Seasoning of . . 549" 

Beef, Recipes for Cooking 469 

Beef, Roasted Ribs of 632 

Biscuit, Trouble with Soda 154 

Bread, Bran 392 

Bread, Bran with Yeast 150 

Bread-Making, Teaching 234 

Bread, Nut and Raisin 392 

Bread, Uses for Dried 312 

Bread, Virginia Spoon Corn 468 

Bread, Why Cracks in Baking ?90 

Cake, Angel Food 716 

Cake, Angel, Frveburg Recipe 231 

Cake, Chocolate' 149 

Cake, Chocolate Creole 549 

Cake, Chocolate Mocha >10 

Cake, Devil's Food 310 

Cake, German Apple 152 

Cake, Marble 309 

Cake, Moist Spice 311 

Cake, Newport 311 

Cake, Pound 712 

Cake, Tough Crust on 551 

Cake, Wedding 550 

Cake, White Laver, High Altitude . . 548 

Cakes, Cup . ' 150 

Cakes, Griddle 790 

Cakes, Lemon Cheese 712 

Canapes, Pimiento, Horseradish .... 714 

Canning Chicken 232 

Canning Fruit, Teaching 234 

ChiH Sauce, Light Colored 234 

Cheese, Cottage 791 

Cheese Fingers 3iiS 

Cherries, I^Iaraschino or Candied .... 791 

Chocolate with Coffee Foundation . . . 634 

Chops, Cereal and Nut Meat 312 

Chowder, Komlet 156 

Chowder, Rich Clam 310 

Clam Chowder 70 

Cloth, Size of, for Tables 792 

Cocktail, Crabflake 714 

Cocktail Fork, Place of, at Table .... 234 

Cocoanut, to open 551 

Cookies, Bran 392 

Cookies, Soft 466 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Cookies, S()ft Molasses 150 

Cookies, Sour Cream Drop 150 

Crabmeat, Imperial 2.U 

Cream of Tartar, Pint of 549 

Cream PufTs, Temi)erature of 712 

(^rescents ^94 

Crullers 474 

Currants, Uses for Bar-le-Duc 792 

Custard, Corn, Mexican Style 236 

Dates and Nuts, Jellied 549 

Devil's Food 231 

Dishes, Light Breakfast 312 

Doughnuts, Potato 547 

Doughnuts, Why they Crack 310 

Dressing, Red French 150 

Dressing, Roquefort Salad 631,711 

Dressing, Salad, Roquefort Cheese . . . 549 

Dressing, Russian Salad 711 

Dressing, Thousand Island Salad .... 152 

Eclairs, Palmerston 547 

Eggs, Florentine Style 474 

Eggs, Jellied 716 

Filling, Cheese Custard 548 

Filling, Chocolate Custard 547 

Filling, Cream Pie 66 

Filling, Enghsh Cream 711 

Filling, Marshmallow 231 

Fish, Fresh Sauce, Meuniere 468 

Fish, with Mushrooms 790 

Flour, Name of Pastry 232 

Fork, Salad, Place of 548 

Fritters, Apple 68 

Fritters, Green Corn . 68 

Frosting, Caramel 149 

Frosting, Marshmallow 231, 548 

Frosting, Mocha 310 

Fudge, Peanut Butter 311 

Gelatine, Substitute for Tapioca .... 550 

Grapefruit, Preparation of 66 

Grapefruit, Supreme 634 

Half-Meats, from Pecan Nuts ...... 551 

Ham, Baked with Cider 394 

Hash, Vegetable for Six Persons .... 312 

Herbs, Sweet 234 

Honey Syrup 632 

Ice, Orange and Cream, Molded 310 

Ice Cream, Caramel 64 

Ice Cream, Peppermint Candy 149 

Ice Cream, Rich Chocolate 311 

Ice Cream, Strawberry 789 

Jelly, Aspic • • • 716 

Jelly, Cranberry 547 

Jelly, Cucumber Mint 309 

Jelly, Sweet Mint 634 

Lady Fingers 392, 469 

Loaf, Bean 312 

Loaf, Nut with Sauce 388 

Loaf, Salmon 390 

Luncheon Dishes for Evening 789 

Macaroons 64 

Marmalade, Amber 471 

Marmalade, Boiling of Amber 158 

Marmalade, Grapefruit . . .' 64 

Marmalade, Pineapple and Grapefruit . 550 

Marrons, Glace 632 

Mayonnaise, Why Does It Curdle ... 156 

Menus, Bride's Announcement Luncheon 714 

Menus, Colonial Luncheons 552 

Menus for Light Refreshments, Evening . 231 

Meringue, Tough on Pudding 66 

Meringues, Why They Shrink 154 

Mousse, Chicken 236 



Muffins, Fruit 468 

Mushrooms, Regarding, with Recipes . . 794 

Oysters, Coating for Frying 712 

Paste, Turkish Mint 471 

Paste, Turkish, Orange Flavored .... 154 

Pastry, Flaky 146 

Pastry, Plain or Flaky, for two Pies 790 

Peach, Melba, with Sauce 471 

Peaches, Brandied, Pickled 156 

Petals, Leaves, Etc., Candied 792 

Pie Crust, Airtight Chicken 791 

Pie, Lemon 469 

Pie, Lemon Sponge 154 

Pie, Mother's Lemon 469 

Pie, Pumpkin 474 

Pie, Washington, Custard Filling .... 631 

Pies, Boston 711 

Pies and Meringue, Shrinking of .... 714 

Plank, for Fish, etc. 551 

Planked Dishes, Recipes for 471 

Potatoes, Moist, Hashed Brown .... 150 

Potatoes, Sweet, Baked with Apples ... 470 

Position of Knife in Cover 388 

Pudding, Corn 234, 236 

Pudding, Steak and Oyster 152 

Punch, Fruit, for Seventy-Five 550 

Refreshments, for Evening, Light ■ . . . 04 

Refreshments, Inexpensive 152 

Refreshments, Light 309 

Rehsh, Philadelphia 236 

Rice, Bavarian Cream, with Almonds . . 158 

Rice Cakes, Japanese 234 

Rings, Fried Onion 468 

Roll, Jelly 469 

Salad, Grapefruit 66 

Salpicon of Grapefruit and Pineapple . . 66 

Sandwiches, Spanish 309 

Sardines, Deviled 714 

Sausage, Cereal and Nut 232 

Sauce, Chocolate for Ice Cream 712 

Sauce, for Beef, Lamb, Veal, Etc., . . . 632 

Sauce, Marshmallow, for Ice Cream . . 311 

Sauce, Mignonette 154 

Scallops in Shells . . ; 548 

Service, A Question of 631 

Serving Lobster and Ice Cream .... 711 

Sherbet, Canned Apricot 62 

Sherbet, Peach 62 

Sherbet, Raspberry 62 

Sherbet, Sicilian 62 

Sherbet, Three of a Kind 62 

Shortcake, Best Strawberry 66 

Souffle, Date and Nut .' 549 

Souffles, Why They Fall 154 

Soup, Lima Bean 158 

Spoons, Dessert and Coffee, Laying of . 548 

Strawberries, Sunshine 790 

Stuffing, Chestnut 68 

'gar. Spun 791 

bweets, French ' 550 

Syrup, Maple, in Candy Making .... 390 

Tea, with Fish 634 

Timbale Cases 392 

Tuna, Recipes for Canned 390 

Turkey, How Cook Two in One Oven . . 632 

Turnover, Light Flaky 232 

Vegetables for Planked Fish 551 

Vegetables for Planked Steak 552 

Vegetables, Macedoine of, in Tomato Jelly 470 

Vinegar from Fruit Juices 390 

Vinegar without Fruit Juice 232 

Yeast, Potato 718 



Menus for Small Wedding Receptions 

I 

Sweetbread-and-Cucumber Salad 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Strawberry Sherbet in Glasses 

Whipped Cream Rosettes above 

Sponge Cake (potato flour) 

Candied Mint Leaves or Mint Turkish Paste 

II 

Cold Chicken Timbales, with 

Lettuce and French Dressing 

Cucumber Sandwiches 

Plain Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Vanilla Ice Cream in Cups, Crushed Strawberry Sauce 

Assorted Cakes 

Fruit Punch 



^ ^ 1^ 

Menu for Wedding Breakfast (June) 

Strawberry-and-Pineapple Cocktail 

Lobster Cutlets, Sauce Tartare 

Yeast Rolls 

Broiled Lamb Chops, Asparagus 

Lettuce and Cress, French Dressing 

Orange Sherbet 

Bride's Cake 

Coffee 

^ ^ 1^ 

Menus for School Banquets 



Strawberry-and-Pineapple Cocktail 

(Stemmed glasses) 

Fresh Fish Croquettes, Sauce Tartare 

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuit 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Creamed or Scalloped Potatoes 

Olives 

Junket Ice Cream, Maple Sauce (in cups) 

Assorted Cake 

II 

Strawberries, French Fashion 

Creamed Fish in Ramekins or Paper Cases 

Olives Pickles 

Yeast Rolls 

Pigeons en Casserole, Currant Jelly (with vegetables) 

Lettuce-and-Cress, French Dressing 

Fresh Raspberry Sherbet Whipped Cream 

Assorted Cake 



Ki(L.\), 




American Cookery 



Vol. XX 



JUNE-JULY, 1915 



No. 1 



The Coming of the Tea-House 

By Mary Harrod Northend 



THE tea-house originated in Japan, 
the land of cherry blossoms. 
They are found there at every 
turn, small artistic little affairs, presided 
over by the pretty geisha girls. In our 
own country the tea-houses are generally 
remodelled shops, barns or farmhouses 
that were fast passing into decay before 
they took on a new lease of life. There 
is about them a picturesqueness which 
may lie with the overhanging branches 
of the elms that have stood guard for 
centuries, or it may be the weatherbeaten 
exterior that appeals. 

Years ago tea-houses were unknown. 
They have sprung into existence within 
the last few years, broadening their 
scope until now we find one in most 
every suburban town or village. They 
stand by the wayside, a swinging sign 
giving evidence of their new life, and 
tempt the passerby to partake of their 
hospitality. 

The introduction of the tea-house has 
solved many perplexing household diffi- 
culties and the coming of the unexpected 
guest is no longer an embarrassment. 
One turns to the little tea-house for help, 
where dainty sandwiches and fancy 
cakes are always at hand. The .popu- 
larity of the afternoon tea is responsible 
in. a great measure for the growth of the 
tea-house, forming a common meeting 
place for social life. Here congregate 
groups of merry girls, laughing and 
chatting over the tea cups while staid 
matrons look on approvingly. This pic- 




BROWN OWL SIGN 

tures to us the importance of this insti- 
tution in community life. 

There is a very attractive little tea- 
house situated at Montserrat, and known 
as the Puritan. The owner, losing her 
home in the Salem fire, took refuge in a 
small, homely little house, just a minute's 
walk from the station and cornering two 
roads. It is in the center of a group of 
all-year-round homes founded by people 
who had tired of the bustle and confu- 
sion of the city. It was an ideal spot for 
a tea-house and an easy matter to re- 
model the little old farmhouse to present 
day use. 

A wide veranda was built across the 
front and screened in for summer use. 
The removal of partitions gave one large 
room, which opened into the kitchen at 



11 



12 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



one side. A large open fireplace, where 
on cold and stormy days a cheery fire 
burns, is a feature of the room. The 
walls are hung in Quaker gray, finished 
with white trimmings, and the little tea- 
tables are of weathered wood, which har- 
monizes with the color-scheme. This lit- 
tle tea-house is notable for the fact that 
it is a gathering place for all the neigh- 
bors. Early every Thursday afternoon 
the ladies of the community meet here, 
bringing their fancy work and discuss- 
ing household affairs. Promptly on the 
stroke of six the gentlemen appear and 
dinner is served in the large dining 
room. The menu is made out by a dif- 
ferent member of the community each 
week, but, as the owner is Scotch, 
scones are always served. A certain 
amount is charged for the dinner, each 
one contributing a portion. This tea- 
house is open all the year round and it 
is surprising how many parties make 
this their rendezvous during the winter 
season. 

Many of these little houses are his- 



toric, which adds very much to their in- 
terest. In fact the tea-rooms that are 
dotted along the automobile routes of 
New England "never fail to give to the 
tourist the savor of the time when the 
old coaches drove along the turnpikes, 
the travelers stopping at "ye ordinary" 
or inn for crisp waffles, maple syrup and 
fragrant, steaming coffee. There is one 
of these interesting places situated in 
Ipswich, Mass., on the main automobile 
road between Boston and Portsmouth, 
where one finds a flavor of historic leg- 
ends. 

The house itself spells "Colonial," for 
it is of a different type than most places 
of the kind, preserving as it does one of 
the best of old houses intact, restored 
along original lines by the owner. It is 
known as the Rose Tree Shop and was 
formerly owned by one Aaron Jewett, 
Yoeman, son of Captain Jewett who lead 
the Ipswich men to Lexington, starting 
from near this spot. The house was built 
in 1780, and the spell of colonial days is 
on the tourist as he steps from the end 




BROWN OWL INTERIOR 



THE COMING OF THE TEA - HOUSE 



13 




VERANDA OF BROWN OWL 



of the lawn into his automobile — there 
being no sidewalks — which in early days 
depended upon the whim of the abutter. 
In the remodeling of the house the 
same weather-beaten exterior has been 
preserved, while a porch has been added 
with settles on either side and a pergola 
covered with vines shades the tea-tables 
below. One enters the fore door, of oak, 
that is a hundred and fifty years old, 
and steps directly into a raftered room 
that is flanked on one side by a huge, 
old colonial fireplace, eight feet long, 
which shows a Dutch oven. The room 
is paneled to the ceiling with old-fash- 
ioned pumpkin pine, which is an unusual 
decoration, as the tree of the pumpkin 
pine was wiped out of New England 
forests long ago. This kind of wood 
with fluted supports, in colonial style, is 
now rarely seen and only in the oldest 
of the early houses. At the right is the 
tea-room, where old-time dainties are 
made a specialty; such as, scones, jam 
and clotted cream, waffles and broilers. 



the latter being raised on the farm. The 
furnishings carry out the type of the 
house, being old-fashioned in every par- 
ticular, and on a cold day the eight-foot 
log, burning in the fireplace, gives a note 
of cheer that is most welcome to the 
guest. 

The quaintest tea-house in all New 
England is Ye Burnham House, at Ips- 
wich, Mass. This old house was built by 
Thomas Hart, Yoeman, from England. 
He was one of the earhest settlers, his 
name being in the town records of Ips- 
wich in the year 1639, when there was 
granted to him four acres of meadow 
and twelve of upland beyond Mr. Apple- 
ton's farm, not prejudicing former 
grants. It is supposed that Mr. Hart 
was living here in 1640. He was a tan- 
ner by trade and back of the building 
was an old tan-yard. That he must have 
been a man of importance is shown by 
the great fireplaces, paneling, and parti- 
tions, and even the rooms of the house 
which have been reproduced by archi- 



14 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tect^s for clients desinuis of obtaining 
the antique, rq)rodtfce(l after this strong 
and rugged style, in town and country- 
house. The house was' built at intervals, 
the oldest part being considered one of 
the finest examples of so early a type ex- 
tant. It is this colonial feeling that 
brings many a guest to the house. 

It was a Bryn Mawr girl who started 
the Brown Owl tea-house that nestles 
cosily at one side of the road between 
Devereaux and Nanepashemet. In con- 
struction it is copied from the design of 
an old farmhouse that stood by the w^ay- 
side centuries ago. The boundary Hue 
is defined by a wall of field stone and 
who knows but it was made, as many of 
them were, by the slaves, who, in' colo- 
nial days formed an important part of 
the household ? The sign hung from a 
rustic pole, shows a quaint old owd de- 
murely perched on the branch of a tree. 
The reason for his eyes being open is 
shown by the new moon at one side. 

This was opened several years ago by 
a girl who wished to find some occupa- 
tion to make a livelihood and who 
adopted this type of architecture as most 
appealing. The weathering of the little 



tea-house has been perfectly carried out 
until it seems almost impossible to be- 
lieve that it is a modern-day affair. Be- 
tween stone gateposts, one enters a path 
that leads to a veranda, which out- 
stretches itself across the entire front of 
the house and ends in a rustic pergola 
covered with leafy vines which do not 
obstruct the magnificent views. The 
name of the tea-house is carried out 
through owls placed everywhere ; with 
outstretched wings they perch on stands, 
swinging to catch the passing breeze, and 
look down on you from mantel and wall 
and also form the feature of the iron 
andirons. 

The furniture used on the veranda, is 
of old hickory, while, inside, green is 
shown ; the color-scheme being green 
and gray. 

The tea-room itself, occupies the en- 
tire front of the house, while a small 
room at the rear allows for special 
guests, and chambers have been intro- 
duced above to accommodate the be- 
lated traveler. The simple paneling and 
plain white frieze make an attractive in- 
terior finish, while the exquisite paint- 
ing, a gift of the architect, which feat- 




THE PURITAN TEA-ROOM 



THE COMING OF THE TEA-HOUSE 



15 



ures the fireplace, shows a merry rip- 
pHng stream that flows through country 
lands, with its setting of forest trees and 
its mountainous background. The win- 
dows are grouped to allow for more 
light, small-paned, and hung with dainty 
little chintz curtains that might have 
come out of great grandmother's dower 
chest. The flowers are an important 
part of the table-setting and are changed 
every day. At the rear of the tea-room 
is a circulating library, which is much 
patronized. 

A pleasant feature of this tea-house is 
the specialty of making it pleasant for 
little ones. When their mothers eo 



away, they can make arrangements for 
lunch to be served the children here. 
This innovation has proved very popu- 
lar, and scarcely a day passes but one 
or two groups of children take advan- 
tage of it. Afternoon tea is also served, 
often proving so attractive that the tea 
drinkers spend the afternoon with their 
needlework on the broad veranda. This 
is an especially attractive place to college 
girls, for scarcely a day in the season 
passes that they do not troop in for 
dainty English muffins, cakes or salads. 
Little wonder, with so much to attract, 
that the tea-house is gaining in popu- 
larity every day. 




THE BROWN OWL TEA-HOUSE. DE\'EREAUX. MASS. 



A red rose bloomed beside the wall, 
As roses have since Adam's fall. 



R 



OSes 



A maiden smiled iipKDn the flower. 
As maidens have, since Vashti's hour. 



A lover paused, who passed that way. 
As lovers do since Pharoah's day. 

The rose was meet to grace adorn, 
As roses are since Ruth was born. 



And so. be -not surprised at this, 
He gave a rose and gained a kiss. 

History repeating, o'er and o'er 
Itself, six thousand years and more. 

Lalia Mitchell, 



The Voice of the Cream-Puff 



By Mabel S. Merrill 



HAZEL was muttering to herself 
like an enchantress as she 
moved about the cosy kitchen : 

''One heaping pint of milk, three eggs, 
a dessert-spoonful of sugar for each tgg 
and one for the plate — Uncle Eben 
doesn't like it too sweet, — bake in one 
crust with a fence around the edge. 
That's Aunt Nan's rule stated in terms 
suited to the comprehension of her niece, 
the second Miss Way — who wishes her- 
self well out of this scrape !" 

The door from the dining-room 
swung back, and a mild little lady, lean- 
ing painfully on two crutches, showed 
an anxious face in the opening. 

"Do try and get the custard pie right. 
Hazel, whatever happens ! — Uncle Eben 
is so particular about it. You might 
speak with the tongues of angels, and 
know more languages than ever came 
out of the Tower of Babel, and still 
he'd think you a flat failure, if you 
couldn't make a custard pie to suit Eben- 
ezer Lawrence Way !" 

"I should think he ought to be kindly 
encouraged to do his own cooking. 
Now, Aunt Nan, you go straight back 
and lie down and promise me not to get 
up again for any number of uncles. I 
shall do better, alone with my misery. 
You scare me out of what little wit I've 
got, prowling around when you're not fit 
to stir." 

"But you see. Hazel, such a lot de- 
pends on that pie," pleaded little Miss 
Nan. "I couldn't quite tell Uncle Eben 
that you could cook when he asked about 
your qualifications, but, then, I didn't 
tell him you couldn't. I only said you 
had great capabilities, like all the Ways, 
and that I didn't believe he would ever 
repent if he took you home to live with 
him. But I expect a good deal depends 
on your being able to make custard pie 
that will 'stand alone,' as he puts it. 

16 



Rich as he is, he lias only hired help to 
depend on for the comforts he used to 
have. It is some womenfolk of his own 
that he needs, and what could be better 
than a nice little grand-niece with no 
home of her own? It would be a fine 
thing for you to be mistress of that 
great house one of these days. Hazel." 

"It's a perfect ogre's castle and lone- 
some as a pile of rocks in a desert. And 
Uncle Eben must be an ogre to talk in 
that kind of blood-thirsty way about cus- 
tard pie. I hate men who are always 
fussing about what they have to eat." 

"But, my dear, wouldn't it be worth 
w^hile? If you live with him and look 
after his comfort, he will leave you all 
his money. Why, he's got two hundred 
thou"— 

A tremendous stamping and hemming 
in the hall sent Aunt Nan quickly back 
to her couch, and Hazel made a face at 
the sugar bucket as she went on with 
her work. 

"In four weeks I should have been in 
college, if I could have got a little more 
money together. Now my fairest pros- 
pect is to make up to an ogre and 
wheedle him into liking my custard pies ! 
If I had any sure way of earning even a 
little right along, wouldn't I snap my 
fingers at that two hundred thousand 
and be off to dear old Fairway! I feel 
as if I'd been there already, the girls 
have told me so much about it, though 
I've only visited it twice. To think that 
Doris Leland would have been my room- 
mate — the dearest girl in the world and 
queen of her set!" 

Hazel's wits went wool-gathering as 
she erected the "fence" around the edge 
of her pie-plate. How she longed to 
get into that bright world of which she 
had had those two glimpses! But Aunt 
Nan, her only adviser, had been full of 
fears. Other girls earned their way. 



THE VOICE OF THE CREAM-PUFF 



17 



partly, at least, and got through college 
without a collapse from overwork. Ha- 
zel had urged. Well, they were girls 
with some special knowledge or talent 
which could be turned to account. Hazel 
was not musical, she didn't know short- 
hand or anything of that kind, she was 
not far enough advanced to hope for 
employment at tutoring — in short. Aunt 
Nan anxiously urged her to give up her 
darling scheme and take account of the 
chance to go and live with Uncle Eben. 

''Of course, you can't go unless he 
asks you," she had admitted, when Hazel 
had triumphantly pointed out that they 
were reckoning chickens before they 
were hatched. ''But I know from his 
quizzing me about you that he has got 
the idea in his head, and he will carry it 
out, if you show him that you're capable. 
He won't expect wonders at your age. 
If you can hit it just right with the 
custard pie, the thing will be done. See- 
ing that his annual visit has come due 
while I'm disabled with this accident, 
you'll have a clear field." 

Hazel consigned her pie to the oven, 
at length, with a hopeless air. 

"Cooking always looked to me like a 
miracle," she sighed. "Mixing up a lot 
of wet and lumpy things, and having 
them turn into something fit to eat ! I 
don't believe for a minute that I can 
ever do any such thing. Aunt Nan 
can, because she's a cosy old-fashioned 
household genius. But I'm different — 
miracles don't happen to me." 

When the pie came out of the oven, 
plump and nicely browned, she set it 
gingerly on the table and gazed at it, 
wide-eyed. 

"Look at that, now ! The miracle has 
happened, even to me ! I've made a pie ! 
Like the old hen with her first chickens, 
I repeat, 'What will folks say !' " And 
then she dropped limply into a chair and 
stared at the sugar bucket on the shelf 
of the kitchen cabinet. 

"I forgot to sweeten it," she gasped, 
"yes, I did! Aunt Nan opened the door 
just as I reached to take the cover off 



the bucket, and when 1 got rid of her, 
I never thought again of the sugar. I 
just put that pie together without a 



gram 



She studied the situation for a mo- 
ment, and then rose to the occasion. 

"Anyway, I've acquired a bit of faith 
in miracles, and I remember how Aunt 
Nan beats up the meringue for her 
lemon pies. If I can't put the sweeten- 
ing into the custard, it will be better than 
nothing to have it on top. Who knows 
but a mouthful right down through 
would average up pretty well?" 

A few minutes' strenuous work with 
the egg-beater was rewarded by a bowl 
of white fluff into which she whipped 
all the sugar it would bear. Heaping 
the whole mass on the top of her "mira- 
cle pie" she set it back in the oven a 
few minutes and then regarded it jubi- 
lantly. 

"Anyway," she breathed, "it looks 
lovely, and, as for standing alone, it 
looms up like a young mountain." 

With the pie off her mind, she pro- 
ceeded to the roast and vegetables. By 
the help of the careful directions Aunt 
Nan had given her she succeeded be- 
yond her expectations. The mistress 
of the house breathed a sigh of relief 
when Uncle Eben wheeled her in to the 
table at the old-fashioned hour of noon. 
Her practised eye found nothing alarm- 
ing in the prospect. 

However, Uncle Eben was in a 
grumpy mood, and he never hesitated to 
show Nan that she was his favorite 
niece by grumbling at anything in her 
house exactly as if it had been his own. 
He was critical over the roast and sav- 
age with the potatoes. When the mir- 
acle pie appeared, he took a few mouth- 
fuls in a grudging way and then laid 
down his fork. 

"I call that a cur'is pie, Nancy," he 
observed stiffly. "Seems some like biled 
eggs mixed together and baked. And 
what's all this plaguey flummery up top? 
It's mighty queer wimmin folks can't 
make anything these days without havin* 



18 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



it all frothed up to notliin' at all. Eve 
no notion o' livin' on sweetened soaj) 
suds at my time o' life." 

It was a relief when dinner was over. 
Hazel disappeared into the kitchen, and 
poor Aunt Nan lay on her couch trying 
to entertani her fractious guest, who 
went prowling about the room like a 
caged hyena till it suddenly occurred to 
him to go and see an old acquaintance 
in the village. 

As soon as his back was turned Aunt 
Nan hobbled hastily out to the kitchen, 
expecting to find the cook in tears and 
her domain a scene of desolation. But 
behold ! Hazel was standing in the mid- 
dle of the floor, her eyes like stars and 
her cheek glowing underneath a pic- 
turesque dab of flour. On the table 
fresh baked cream-pufifs were set allur- 
ingly in a row, and the girl was holding 
a plate upon which lay the largest and 
finest of the batch. 

*'I was just coming to bring it to you, 
Aunt Nan. Here it is, my very first 
cream-puff ! I followed the rule and 
they came out perfect ! Oh, Auntie, I've 
had a revelation this day ! Em a miracle 
Vv^orker too ! I can mix up wet and 
lumpy things and have 'em come out fit 
for fairies. I always thought cooking 
w^as so hard, I was just scared to begin. 
Why, what a lot Eve missed! I haven't 
had so much fun as this for years." 

After that day it was impossible to 
keep Hazel out of the kitchen for more 
than half an hour at a time. She cooked 
early and late. Eroni being afraid to 
try new things she developed an over- 
weening confidence which stopped at 
nothing. The little curly-tailed pig that 
lived in a pen at the far end of the or- 
chard soon learned to betray no emotion 
of any kind when he heard swift feet 
coming along the path. He took his 
chances gallantly and neither he nor 
Hazel ever told what strange things were 
handed over the wall of that pen. How- 
ever, in spite of some failures, the yotmg 
cook was making real progress and 
stoutly declared she was having the time 



of her life. In truth. Aunt Nan and 
Uncle h'J)en fared pretty well, but one 
thing was noticeable. Though Uncle 
]^T)en grumbled and Aunt Nan threw out 
many a mild suggestion, not one custard 
pie appeared on the table during the 
whole four weeks of the old man's visit. 

''No, Em not afraid to try another," 
averred Hazel, in answer to an encour- 
aging hint from Aunt Nan. "Of course, 
I shouldn't forget the sugar a second 
time. But he 'faulted' my first one, as 
old Telatha Graham used to say, and he 
shan't have another. Let him go with- 
out till he has improved his manners to 
the point of eating what's set before 
him, when he is on a visit." 

"You mustn't cherish hard feelings," 
urged Aunt Nan. "I know as well as 
anybody that Uncle Eben is exasperat- 
ing, but he does love custard pie so! — 
if you make him go without any, I'm 
afraid your chances are spoiled for that 
two hun" — 

"He will have to get along with a 
cream-puff," insisted Hazel. "They're 
only too good for him." 

"You do seem possessed to make 
cream-puffs," observed Aunt Nan in a 
tone of mild bewilderment. "And you've 
got so you can make 'em fit for angels. 
Ell say that for you, child ! I revel in 
'em myself, but Uncle Eben won't look 
it one." 

"If you revel in them, you shall have 
all you want, little auntie. And Uncle 
Eben can go home if he can't stand any 
more flummery as he calls it." 

Uncle Eben did go home a few days 
after this, and though Aunt Nan waited 
and worried and artfully led up to the 
subject a dozen times, he did not ask his 
penniless and unprovided-for young 
niece to go with him and share his 
luxurious home. 

"I feel like the knight in a fairy tale 
when the dragon goes off roaring over 
the hills, wounded in his tenderest vital," 
declared Hazel, marching in from the 
kitchen. "We're rid of our dragon, 
Aunt Nan — and look at that, will you!" 



FULFILLMENT 



19 



With a gentle thump she set down 
upon the dinner table a plump and deli- 
cately browned custard pie. 

'It's warranted," she announced. 
**One dessert-spoonful of sugar for each 
Ggg and one for the plate." 

Aunt Nan looked at the pie admir- 
ingly. A cook of thirty years' experi- 
ence knows a good custard pie when she 
sees it. 

"But I'm afraid," — Aunt Nan shook 
her head sadly — "that you are a very ob- 
stinate little girl who will be sorry one 
day that she stood so in her own light." 

*'Not a bit of it, dear ! Listen now : 
When I took my first cream-puff out of 
the oven and looked at it, I found it 
had a voice — oh, such an eloquent voice ! 
— and what it said just took my breath 
away. It told me that I'd found a way 
to work out my expenses through col- 
lege, with what I've got to begin on, — 
just by making nice pretty toothsome 
things, like my cream-puffs, to sell to the 
girls ! Yes, indeed, auntie, I've visited 
the Fairway dormitories and I know. 
Lots of those girls have money to burn, 
and when they see something tempting 
to eat set out at somebody's door on a 
little table or chair with the price marked 
and a cup to put the money in — well, 



you just ought to see it rain down! 
Several of the girls Doris chums with 
earn all their expenses, lots more earn 
pocket money. Usually they have a 
specialty — one girl makes fudge, an- 
other turnovers, another cake. Two 
thousand girls, and most of them hungry 
all the time, as girls are, — why, you can 
see for yourself, what a sensation my 
cream-puff's would make. And I always 
had a fixed idea that I hadn't any talents 
to make money with, and that cooking 
was a solemn and awful business that 
I never could succeed in. But I can, I 
can! And I'm not afraid to start for 
Fairway tomorrow." 

''But Uncle Eben," began conscien- 
tious Aunt Nan. 

"Bother Uncle Eben! Let him hire 
somebody to grumble at. I pity him 
(and them), but I'll never sacrifice my 
young life to the whims of an aged 
dragon. He'll leave his money to you 
now, Aunt Nan, as he ought to. If he 
doesn't, you can come and stay with me 
and we'll live in perfect bliss on cream- 
puffs and" — 

"I speak for a custard pie like this 
once in a while." smiled Aunt Nan. 
cutting a plump golden quarter, and 
placing it daintily before her. 



Fulfillment 



They will all come back in beauty, 
Each vanished earthly dream. 

And fair with divine fulfillment, 
How sweet they all will seem. 

The beautiful things we cried for 
\\'hen we lost them long ago, 

And the friendships that were broken, 
And the love we longed for so. 



As the Springtime follows the \\'inter, 

So joy shall follow pain, 
And in some far, sweet future 

We shall have them all again. 

Christine K. Davis. 



The Panama-Pacific Exposition 

Glimpses En Route and First Impressions 

By Julia Davis Chandler 



WHETHER one takes a north- 
ern or southern route, even 
tlie most timid of travelers 
should have no anxiety, in a trip to the 
Exposition, since but one change need 
be made between the Atlantic and Pa- 
cific. 

From Washington one may take a car 
and be cared for all the v^ay, with every 
object of interest en route shown, and 
also be escorted to places of note, where 
long stop-overs are arranged, telegrams 
sent, and letters mailed. 

In travel, extremes meet, for it was in 
arid Arizona that we were told that we 
were passing a train going East con- 
taining German women and children, 
refugees from the settlement in China 
recently taken by the Japanese ; they 
were being sent home, while the men 
were held prisoners. And passing the 
long stretches of the great Salton Sea, 
with a flaming orange sunset behind 
black volcanic mountains, the writer was 
talking with the charming American 
granddaughter of one of the great Eng- 
lish generals who fought at Waterloo 
and in the Crimea. 

"So years chase bloodstained years 
with wild red feet." 

It was here, at Imperial Valley, that 
a little Eastern woman left us to return 
to her new home, where war is also rag- 
ing; for from her own pretty home- 
windows, on the CaHfornia side of the 
line, she had seen the Mexican machine 
guns at work — another spot "where ev- 
ery prospect pleases and only man is 
vile." She confirmed all that we had 
read of Imperial Valley, its depth of soil, 
its marvelous and early crops, for it is 
the very hottest settled section of the 
United States. Here roses grow mirac- 
ulously. 

Alas, though, the heat is an affliction ! 



The water is so hot in the pipes that 
one may not have a cool bath ; even the 
chairs are hot to the touch. Only think 
of the endurance in making grape jelly 
with the thermometer registering one 
hundred and twenty-five degrees ! Here 
the date palm fruits well, and melons 
and grapes bear enormously, as well as 
cotton and other crops, and because of 
the depth of the soil and its wondrous 
fertility this curious spot on the border 
of Mexico was developed for tillage, in- 
stead of its natural basin being over- 
flowed for an inland sea, as engineers 
had intended. 

Thus the hours passed in constant de- 
light, until Spanish missions became fa- 
miliar, and palms, and pepper trees, with 
roses, and we gazed on the calm-lapping 
wavelets of the mighty Pacific ; then the 
pier at Oakland brought a five-days' 
journey to a happy ending near the 
Golden Gate. The descendant of the 
famous general had asked us to see her 
San Diego land, with a real breadfruit 
tree in bearing condition, the only one 
they knew of in California; indeed, 
cards and notebooks already promised 
future happiness, and much to learn and 
enjoy, in this Land of Gold. There are 
four kinds of gold valued here: the 
metal itself, the wheat, the oranges, and 
the golden poppy — the State flower — 
which abounds everywhere, even great 
fields of it. 

Fields! yes, fields, but think of fields 
of beans, twenty-three thousand acres in 
one field ! Twenty-one thousand acres 
of which are lima beans. Moving pic- 
tures of all this, and how harvesting is 
now done by "caterpillar engines," may 
be seen, at the free "Movies," any day 
at the California building of the Exposi- 
tion. Also the biggest sugar-beet fields, 
with a factory at Oxnard ^^t* making 

20 



THE PANAMA-PACIFIC EXPOSITION 



21 



sugar, able to turn out a million bags 
per year, each containing a hundred 
pounds of fine sugar. This is the second 
largest sugar-beet factory in the world. 

Only by many steps and frequent 
visits can one begin to know the already 
completed exhibitions and the official 
buildings of many countries, and those 
that are rapidly being finished. So many 
signs in vacant floor spaces announce 
that contributions from such and such 
countries are due to arrive on the 
steamer Jason, that one feels, true to 
the name, the Jason has gone after the 
Golden Fleece. There are so many 
countries involved in war that they can 
not send us of their treasures. 

If art from old sources, such as graced 
the Centennial and 'Columbian Exposi- 
tions be lacking, at least, up-to-date me- 
chanical and agricultural industry, and 
the marvelous advance in electrical sci- 
ence are strong features of the P. P. I. E. 

Does not that series of initials look 
like P-I-E spoken by a stuttering per- 
son? Every other form of ration rather 
than American pie is in evidence, how- 
ever, at the refreshment places, though 
pie can be had. There are eating places 
of many kinds along The Zone, which is 
like The Midway and The Pike, etc., of 
other expositions, and there are fine inns 
and cafes, varying from a Christian As- 
sociation cafeteria to a Formosa Tea 
Garden, set with ancient, dwarfed cedars 
and gay-flowering azalias and red-leaved 
maples. One may eat Mexican tortillas 
and beans and enchiladas, or grub a la 
the pioneer of '49 at another place, — 
partake of Chinese edibles where they 
ask a dollar for fried rice, or storm the 
door where crowds await the opening 
to get fine batter-cakes and excellent 
coflfee. 

The Food Building is palatial, and a 
twin of the Education Building, showing 
how these subjects necessarily supple- 
ment one another. Here everybody 
comes, for nutrition and cookery appeal 
to people of all classes and ages and all 
climes; some come for fun and for tid- 



bits of nice and novel foods, given out 
by demonstrators for various companies. 
Others come to learn what to buy for 
home use and what new methods and 
utensils are shown. 

One amusing exhibit is a bowl of ce- 
real as large as a room and surrounded 
by smiling figures of "Kewpies" eter- 
nally pouring steaming milk (?) and 
ladling in sugar. One may watch rice 
being puffed and made into confection- 
ery, and the many exhibits of California 
wineries, hung with vine leaves and dis- 
pensing their products with enticing 
samples 

At one of the gelatine displays there 
is an exhibit, which is not so highly 
colored as some, for many manufac- 
turers err by using brilliant purple and 
poisonous-looking greens, etc. A dainty 
effect displayed was marguerites (dais- 
ies) in clear gelatine over Spanish cream 
molded in ring shape; the daisies were 
made with a centre of orange peel and 
petals of pinion nuts, the stems of green 
angelica. Yellow daisies, or brown-eyed 
Susans, may be made with a big flat- 
tened raisin for the centres, the petals of 
orange peel, and the stems of angelica. 

One fascinating exhibit shows fruits 
in many forms, and a fruit cake, which 
is all fruits and nuts, and no batter, 
made by pressing several kinds together 
and then slicing it; this is both health- 
ful and delicious. Also various dried 
fruits skilfully prepared for eating with- 
out cooking, and arranged most artis- 
tically in the prettiest of boxes and gift 
bags. No souvenir shop, or woman's 
exchange, or fashionable needlework 
place has prettier handiwork than a 
Spanish gentleman from Santa Clara 
displays, and his goods are mailed, free 
of charge, to any part of the United 
States, for a very modest sum. 

A novel jelly was seen in the Oregon 
exhibit; it is a combination of "Petite 
Prune and Wonderberry." In fact, there 
is so much to be seen that one's notes are 
as confused as one's brains, by night, and 
as mixy as one's stomach after sampling 



21 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tuna salad and clam chowder, cheese 
crackers and noodles, oat meal, pineap- 
ple, angel cake, gelatine, griddle cakes, 
pickles, sardines, Hindo chupattis, and 
Japanese cakes, and many other foods 
and beverages, not to mention sweet in- 
dulgence in "Candy Cotton" at five cents 
l)er bag. This is made by forcing sugar 
through a rapidly whirling machine, 
which ejects it in a form exactly resem- 
bling cotton. Of course, anyone faith- 
ful to food decorates with a tiny cu- 
cumber, emblem of the *'57 varieties," 
and takes home circulars of the "Golden 
Rule Grocery," begun by four young 
men as a demonstration of the practica- 
bility of righteousness in business circles. 

When sunset closes the buildings and 
the guns of the fort at Alcatraz Island 
boom forth, one leaves the magically- 
engardened, great buildings and joins the 
stream of happy, though, mostly, weary 
humanity that wends toward the Zone, 
to take in other forms of entertainment, 
anything from Diving Girls to a South 
Polar Expedition, gay or grave, the 101 
Ranch with its Indians, Toyland, etc. 
— and the house on a great pole, like a 
"Ducking Stool" for offenders of old, 
called The Aeroscope; this replaces the 
excitements of a Ferris Wheel. 

Those averse to the Zone spend the 
twilight hours watching the gorgeous 
sunset and the bay, and the reflections of 
great arches and sculpture in the lagoons 
of the gardens. Nowhere else are there 
such gardens, with artistically placed 
trees, and spring flowering shrubs and 
bulbs ; even high walls of flowers are 
made by using crates of earth held in by 
woven wire and planted with living 
green, now just bursting forth into vivid 
sheets of blossoms. The courts at night 
are an architectural fairyland, lit by rosy 



flames and filled with serene crowds 
seated amid shrubbery by giant foun- 
tains, listening to great orchestras led 
by world-known leaders. 

If one looks at the illustrations of the 
Panama- Pacific International Exposi- 
tion, and then adds color galore, giant 
standards and streaming banners, and 
imagines acres of golden daffodils, 
pansies, hyacinths and Italian anemones, 
and masses of rhododendrons that rival 
those of the Himalayas, and rare and un- 
familiar things at every turn scenting an 
atmosphere that is always pure and cool, 
well-washed, but not salt, from its thou- 
sands of miles of travel over the Pacific 
Ocean, then one may have some idea of 
the accompaniments of this great exposi- 
tion. Its strange buildings and ever- 
flashing Tower of Jewels suggest some 
far and ancient part of Asia, and one 
skirmishes in forgotten history for the 
right name to supply. Is it Samarcand, 
or Tiflis, or any real place built for some 
conqueror like Tamerlane or Genghis 
Khan, or the architects' working out of 
Coleridge's verses about a pleasure pal- 
ace in Xanadu decreed bv the mythical 
Kubla Khan? 

The stories of the first Government 
explorers, and the overland pioneers 
about the wonders of the Grand Canon, 
and Yellowstone and Y^o Semite w^ere 
not believed, although the hard-working 
adventurers had, in truth, found a new 
wonderland, but now a still stranger 
wonderland is encompassed within the 
walls devoted to this work of man. 
What would the dreaming padres and 
wealthy Spanish hidalgos, and the 
'49-ers — the men w^ho sought gold with a 
burro, a sieve and bag of food — think of 
the California of today? And the prom- 
ise of tomorrow? 



,/^* -^^ 




A Crystalized Receipt 

By Ladd Plumley 



MISS Lavinia Taylor did not need 
to tell Zelop, who had opened 
the door for her, that once 
again her trip to Washington had been a 
defeat. The old colored woman noted 
the sorrow in the thin, wrinkled face, 
and could not but observe the lack of its 
usual briskness in Miss Lavinia's step. 

" 'Pears like dem trains takes dere 
times like ez ef dere ain't no sich thing 
ez a time-table !" grumbled the old 
woman. 

The train had come in on time, and 
Zelot knew it, but she desired a little 
side-stepping in the way of conversation 
until she could bring in IMiss Lavinia's 
supper, which was ready on a tray in 
the back kitchen. 

"Youse set y'self right down hyer in 
dis hyer rocker under th' mockin' bird. 
honey. I's done made th' tea and dere's 
fried chicken an' beaten biscuit." 

Miss Lavinia sank into the rocker and 
Zelop hastened to carry into a back room 
her mistress's ancient valise, which had 
made its first trip to Washington in the 
sturdy grasp of Miss Lavinia's uncle, 
when he had been appointed a member 
of a presidential cabinet in a long-de- 
funct administration. 

The uncle had not been the only mem- 
ber of the spinster's family who had held 
high government position. From the 
days when Virginia was a colony, Tay- 
lors had been chosen, either by appoint- 
ment or by vote, for many offices in the 
commonwealth. The family were scat- 
tered now, the few yet alive, and Miss 
Lavinia lived in the old mansion alone 
with Zelop ; indeed, we can count out 
the one servant, so far as the nights 
were concerned. For Zelop's husband, 
a white-haired old colored man, was the 
porter on the Pullman coach that runs 
westward in the afternoon over the 
southern division of the Chesapeake and 



Ohio Railroad. True, Ezra was seldom 
in the little house that stands back from 
the turnpike, a quarter-mile from the old 
Taylor mansion, but, as Zelop had once 
put it to Miss Lavinia : 

'' 'Taint no way ter gad 'bout when 
youse got a man. Fs got my own home 
an' dere I is, even ef Ezra ez rattlin' 
'long on one of dese swell Pullmans!" 

So Miss Lavinia was generally alone 
after rather early candle-light. She still 
used candles. For the spinster, the 
world had crystalized into permanency — 
as to most things — about the time that 
kerosene had been considered an evil- 
smelling illumination for reading the 
bedtime chapter in the New Testament. 
Gas and electric lights were unknown 
along the turnpikes of Jason, Virginia ; 
but even if there had been such luxuries, 
Miss Lavinia would not have given up 
her home-made candles. So, when eve- 
ning falls across the flatlands, near the 
James River, in central Mrginia, and 
obscures the grey dinginess of the 
sprawling ancient homestead, the living 
room, with its polished brown floor, 
great brick fireplace, and its dark furni- 
ture, where ^liss Lavinia spends the 
brief hours before bedtime, is illumi- 
nated with home-made candles. 

"They were exceedingly kind," said 
^liss Lavinia, after she had absent- 
mindedly finished her supper and Zelop 
had washed up the dishes and re- 
turned to her mistress. "They were cer- 
tainly exceedingly kind ; and the Post- 
master General is a most courteous gen- 
tleman, — really very presentable, Zelop, 
very presentable, indeed !" 

"Court'uosity ain't choppin' fire-wood, 
feedin' hens, an' payin' taxes," remarked 
Zelop with grim sarcasm. "An' per- 
cent'ble pussons is all well 'nough, ef dey 
is percent'ble clean through ter tlv heart 
an' 'nough ter giv' you shore what's yer 

23 



24 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



own by birth an' rights! 1 'low 'tis 
mighty scrumt'ous ter hev court'uosity 
an' percent'bleness, but it's a trilHon 
times mo' becomin' ter hav' a heart what 
a pusson's heart ought'r be. An', Miss 
Lavinia, chil', you can't be goin' 'long 
ez youse been goin' since you lost th' 
pos'-office. I know, honey ! Dem visits 
ter th' big lawyer mean a heap 'bout dese 
hyer mort'ages what Ezra has done tol' 
me. Folkes can't live in a big house like 
dis hyer forever, an' less money comin' 
in than what's on er plate in our church 
on heathen Sundays !" 

Zelop was a little out of breath, or 
doubtless she would have continued her 
arraignment of fate as personified by 
the postal officials. 

"It has always been my desire to be 
just, particularly to persons in high 
authority," continued Miss Lavinia. ''I 
acknowledge that when I think of my 
affairs I am well-nigh in despair — if a 
Taylor can be said to be ever in des- 
pair. But I can comprehend that with 
a new administration there are many of 
much more importance than myself and 
whose claims must be first recognized." 

''Dere's been a parcel of admin'stra- 
tions while you was pos'-missis for 
thirty year," said the old servant. *T 
ain't sayin' ez bein' pos'-missis fo' Jason, 
Virginia, ez perzackly like wadin' up ter 
yer knees in a land of milk and honey, 
but th' taxes was paid an' dere weren't 
none of dis hyer mort'age business. 
Dem big pussons up in Washington! 
I'd be 'shamed ter turn out a Taylor of 
the Taylors an' after thirty year ! Dere's 
heaps an' mo' all 'bout dis hyer country 
ez is honored ter git dere pictur' pos'als 
an' new^spapers from th' hands of a real 
'nough Taylor. An' from th' hand of 
my Miss Lavinia, honey ! An' wdiat 
business hez ol' Jonas Wheeler, what hez 
hogsheads — jes' hogsheads of money, — 
youse knows he hez. Miss Lavinia, — 
youse knows he hez bushels an' hogs- 
heads of money. An' it's low down, jes' 
a mean nigger trick ter take th' pos'- 
office awav from you, Miss Lavinia. 



But dey'll shorely giv' it back ter you — 
dey shorely will. An' did you see the 
President, honey?" 

"No, Zelop. You must appreciate that 
the President of this great country has 
a multitude of demands on his time, and 
I was assured that it would not advance 
my claims, even in the slightest, to 
trouble him. The gentlemen in the post- 
office department very much discouraged 
the plan of my bringing the matter, in 
person, before the President. And, al- 
though they didn't say so in just so many 
words, they gave me the definite im- 
pression that the decision as to the Jason 
post-office was reached after a confer- 
ence with the Chief Executive. And, as 
I stated, they were courtesy itself — you 
must acknowledge that is rather unusual 
in business matters in these days. They 
quite convinced me, Zelop, that I had 
the greatest cause for thankfulness in 
that I had been the incumbrant of the 
position for so many years." 

*T ain't takin' overmuch stock in dem 
big pos'-office pussons up in Washington. 
Dey looks out fer dere own mouths — 
dat's what I tol' Ezra yesterday. An' I 
was hopin', honey, you'd sure see th' 
President. An' what youse goin' ter do, 
i\Iiss Lavinia, ef youse doesn't git back 
th' pos'-office? Youse can't pay taxes 
an' dis hyer mort'age moneys with what 
we folkses takes in fo' th' train sup- 
pers !" 

Miss Lavinia glanced sadly about the 
living room. It was ver}^ evident that 
she could hardly put into words w^hat 
she intended to do. She was a brave old 
woman, but there are few opportunities 
in a small town in Virginia for a woman 
to make even -pin-money. 

Since the death of her father, the 
plantation had become smaller and 
smaller ; woodlots and w^orn-out tobacco 
lands had been sold in parcels to make 
ends meet. And now it seemed certain 
that the remaining few acres and the 
home of her girlhood would also go. 
But the spinster would not have been 
a Tavlor of the Tavlors, if she showed 



A CRYSTALIZED RECEIPT 



25 



overmuch anxiety before a servant. She 
straightened herself in her chair. 

"Possibly, Zelop, it may be necessary 
to consider a still further retrenchment 
in my affairs. I will acknowledge that 
to leave my house would be something 
of a shock — yes, really, something of a 
shock — 3. shock that, in a measure, is 
painful, even in its contemplation. But I 
hope that I have learned that the world 
is governed by one who is equal to his 
task, and I hope that I have learned that 
for most of us who dwell here the world 
can never be an altogether easy place of 
residence. And, coming down on the 
train from Richmond, I have been think- 
ing that my supper idea might be very 
largely expanded — \ery largely. The 
suppers have been a success — I think 
that it is not conceited to say that they 
have been a very great success. And 
suppose, Zelop, we added breakfasts for 
the early morning train? And suppose 
to the breakfasts for the early train we 
added lunches for the noon train?" 

"Even them breakfas'es an' lunches 
ain't goin' ter pay taxes an' mort'age 
moneys," grumbled the old servant. 
"An' gittin' up before daylight ter cook 
coffee will be hard work fo' you, honey ! 
I ain't sayin' but them breakfas'es would 
be welcome ter th' stomaches of pussons 
on th' early train. Dey ain't gittin' 
nothin' till dey makes Richmond, an' dey 
leaves Lynchburg so early dey can't see 
fo' sure what dey's puttin' inter mouths. 
But 'tis th' pos'-ofifice ez youse should 
hev, not slavin' fer folkses ez ain't 
knowin' what it means ter hang over a 
table fo' an hour an' make real beaten 
biscuit. 'Tis th' pos'-ofifice youse ought 
ter hev, honey !" 

"I fear I will never have the post- 
office back," said Miss Lavinla. "And 
I fear I must be thinking very seriously 
of giving up the homestead — and — " 
The spinster's voice faltered as she 
glanced away from Zelop and allowed 
her eyes to linger on the row of faded 
portraits on the opposite wall of the 
room. Then her quivering mouth set 



itself, and again she straightened her- 
self in her chair, and her voice became 
once more the spritely high-spirited 
voice of Miss Lavinia. 

"But it's getting late, Zelop. You've 
had an arduous day preparing for my re- 
turn. I must, myself, be up early. To- 
morrow's my day for a new batch of 
cookies. Do you think that my last were 
up to my usual standard, Zelop?" 

"Dey shorely was," affirmed Zelop. 
"I giv' Ezra a couple, an' Ezra says ter 
me 'bout them cookies, 'Zelop, ef th' 
chil'en of Israel done had manna that's 
meltin' in dere mouths like Miss La- 
vinia's cookies, dey'd be sojournin' right 
down ter th' present day in dat wilder- 
ness of sin !' " 

The High Official of the government 
had personal and private business that 
must have his attention in his home 
town, a railroad run of some twelve 
hours from the capital. Therefore, in 
the coach of the president of the rail- 
road, with the attendance of his secre- 
tary, he journeyed westward from the 
city of Richmond on an afternoon in 
early spring, taking the southern branch 
of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. 

The peach trees sprinkled the low- 
lands along the James River with pink 
— and the willows that bordered the 
brown-red waters were tinted in yellow- 
greens. To the much harried High Offi- 
cial it almost seemed as if the train 
were carrying him back along the road 
of life to the days of his youth. For 
these expanses of alternating woodland 
and plantation were what his eyes had 
known as a boy, and in all our minds 
early springtime is associated with the 
springtime of life. And, as the High 
Official's train sped onward toward a 
sunset of rose and saffron, and his eyes 
fell on some boys who were fishing for 
catfish at the margin of the river, he for- 
got his harassing cares and the multitude 
of pressing dutes and anxieties that go 
with High Officialdom and he wished 
that the train might linger long enough 



26 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



for him to know if the Httle fellows in 
blue jeans and white suspenders crossed 
over their backs were having the kind of 
luck that he remembered he had enjoyed 
in similar places on the banks of the 
brown-red river. 

And what with the thoughts of fishing 
and boyhood and catfish, the High Offi- 
cial became conscious of an unusual sen- 
sation in the region behind his low- 
placed watch-chain ; a sensation that, at 
first, he did not understand, but that 
gradually became more definite until he 
knew that he was hungry, exceedingly, 
even absurdly hungry. For he had been 
very well fed, indeed, just before he had 
left the city of Richmond. If the manu- 
script in his hand, which he had been 
puzzling over, had been anything eatable, 
he would have devoured it on the in- 
stant — the speech he must make before 
a woman's sufifrage society, which had 
worried him so that he had almost con- 
signed both manuscript and society to a 
place, which we have never been in- 
formed is governed by votes for women. 

He threw the manuscript on the table 
before him, and leaning back in his chair 
gave himself up to reverie. But back 
of and below the reverie was the un- 
comfortable feeling down in the region 
of the watch-chain. 

Very likely the High Official's sub- 
conscious mind had confused things. 
Probably the rose and safifron sunset, 
the boys fishing on the banks of the 
river, the yellow-green willows and the 
peach blooms, had pushed back the mind 
to the time when the High Official him- 
self, clothed in jeans and with crossed 
white suspenders, had been sitting beside 
the river at exactly the same hour of the 
afternoon and had become conscious of 
the same feeling in the place that was 
not then ornamented with any watch- 
chain. The reverie ended in a climax of 
acute hunger. The High Official opened 
his eyes, and reaching to his side pushed 
a button. 

A few minutes later, a courteous ser- 
vitor stood before him at attention, his 



blue uniform spotless, his brass buttons 
glittering, and his thin white hair over 
the bronze forehead brushed up into a 
kind of scared effect. 

"Porter, is there a diner on this 
train?" anxiously asked the High Offi- 
cial. 

Zelop's Ezra, for to him had been as- 
signed the honor of w^aiting on the High 
Official, solemnly shook his head. "Dis 
hyer train, sir, ain' takin' no diner till 
we gits to Lynchburg." 

*'Do you mean to say. Porter, that I 
must wait until I reach Lynchburg be- 
fore I have any supper?" 

''You sees, sir, dis hyer train doesn't 
carry a heap of Pullman passengers — 
dey goes by th' upper route. She's 
really a local with th' lonesome Pullman 
hangeron behind. So th' railroad ain't 
puttin' on no diner from out'n Richmond 
till we gits to Lynchburg." 

"Why, we don't reach Lynchburg un- 
til nine o'clock," remonstrated the High 
Official, fumbling with his watch-chain. 

'T knows it, sir. Dere's been a heap 
an' mo' of grumblin' on dis hyer train. 
An' dats how I comes ter tell Zelop, an' 
she comes ter tell Miss Lavinia." 

"Who's Zelop and who's Miss La- 
vinia, and what have they to do with 
starving the passengers on the afternoon 
train out of Richmond?" 

"Zelop ? Well, Zelop's my old woman. 
An' Miss Lavinia? Miss Lavinia done 
used to be th' pos'misses at Jason, down 
th' line where I lives when I ain't on 
th' Pullmans. Miss Lavinia was th' 
pos'misses — let me see? Why, it's mo'n 
twenty-five year she was th' pos'misses. 
An' when them high pussons in th' pos' 
d'partment up in Washington takes 
away th' pos'-office from Miss Lavinia, 
she has ter do somethin' — money, in 
chunks, ain't acomin' in dese days from 
th' old place. An' Miss Lavinia, she's 
done took up sendin' suppers inter th' 
Pullman. I wires ahead, so ez Zelop, 
who sets awaitin' in th' station, '11 know 
jes' how many suppers dey's aw^ntin'. 
Course, dere's no plates nor fixin's — like 



A CRYSTALIZED RECEIPT 



27 



knives an' folks, — an' Miss Lavinia has 
ter send in th' things in a paper bag, 
'cause we doesn't wait at Jason. Ez I 
tol' Zelop, jes' ez ef th' Pulhnan was a 
fishin' place an' th' folkses was eatin' 
same ez alongside th' crick." 

"When do we make this pleasant land 
of suppers?" asked the High Official. 

" 'Bout one hour or so — you sees we's 
a tiny bit late. Shall I wire ahead fo' 
your supper, sir? I has ter say, th' price 
is thirty-five cents. Zelop was fo' 
chargin' a half dollar, but Miss Lavinia 
ain't 'lowin' th' supper is wairth more'n 
thirty-five ; 'though I 'low th' passengers 
would pay half a dollar jes' ez well ez 
what ]\Iiss Lavinia hez decided was right 
an' proper. Does you want, sir, ez I's 
ter wire ahead fo' you?" 

"Well, I should say so. And while 
you are wiring, you can wire for my 
secretary, too. And, Porter ! Suppose 
you make it three suppers. Pm surely 
equal to two — Pm not so certain that Pll 
divide at all, even with my secretary !" 

"Youse could hardly manage three, 
sir — 'less youse haven't eaten in a day 
or two. Miss Lavinia ain't stintin' no- 
body." 

"Wire for the three and see if you 
cannot persuade the conductor to make 
up that bit we are late." 

"He do look some kerdav'rous !" re- 
marked Ezra, as he went forward to at- 
tend to the wants of those in the Pull- 
man. " 'Pears hke dey doesn't feed dis 
big man of the gov'ment ez he should be 
fed. Maybe 'tis dey's keepin' him on 
short rations, jes' ez dey does hounds 
when dey's expectin' ter git th' most 
out'n 'em!" 

An hour later the High Official sat be- 
fore three paper bags, bags of generous 
dimensions. Presently his private sec- 
retary took the seat opposite and two of 
the bags were opened. 

Those who were privileged to enjo} 
the paper-bag supper, which was at one 
time served on the Pullman beyond Ja- 
son, A'irginia, know what delights 
awaited the High Official and his secre- 



tary. The fried chicken must linger in 
their memories, so must the beaten bis- 
cuit and the thin slices of the tenderest 
of boiled Virginia ham. 

The High Official finished the chicken 
of two of the bags, then he attacked the 
beaten biscuit and the ham. And, hav- 
ing wiped his hands on a Pullman towel, 
furnished by Ezra, as a substitute for a 
napkin, he proceeded to investigate the 
further contents of the bags. 

"By the shade of the great Epicurus !" 
he exclaimed. "Sponge cake, doughnuts, 
and cookies ! Talk about the resources 
of the kitchen of the Xew \\'illard ! 
Say, I haven't eaten such a meal in as 
many moons as would help to make up 
fifty solar systems !" 

At the first mouthful of a cookie, the 
High Official glared down at the sugared 
segment yet in his hand, as a man would 
surely glare at the moving pictures of 
himself, taken of his own boyhood ad- 
ventures. Then he slowly bit into the 
cookie again, slowly letting the crisp 
morsels dissolve in his mouth. Where 
had he once before tasted such cookies? 
He searched his memor}- ; he knew that 
he had tasted just such cookies, but 
where, and when? And his subcon- 
scious mind, by itself, began digging deep 
into the past and refused to be inter- 
viewed by its master until it had finished 
its own diggings. But, with the third 
cookie, the subconscious mind ascended 
from its labors, somewhere in unfath- 
omable depths, and laid before its mas- 
ter the result. 

"Don't you remember?" whispered the 
subconscious mind. "You were twelve 
and one of your school chums invited 
you down to his home for a few days, 
and you went on fishing excursions. 
And in the house was another visitor — 
a friend of your chum's sister — a glori- 
ous vision of young \^irginia in the en- 
chanting form of a twenty-year-old dam- 
sel. She made cookies for you and the 
chum to eat with your lunches at the 
riverside — cookies that can never be for- 
gotten. The cookie in your hand is a 



28 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



kind of sweet-heart's twin sister to the 
cookie of memory ; it is even more than 
that; it might have been from a batch 
cooked by memory herself and flavored 
with boyhood. And you must remember 
how you — a boy of twelve — lost your 
heart to the dark-eyed vision of loveli- 
ness, as a boy of twelve will to a sweet 
damsel of twenty ; and how, for many 
weeks, she remained in your thought the 
dream of what fair women should al- 
ways be. And her name ? Is it possible 
that you do not remember it? You it 
is, sir, who are supposed to have an 
amazing memory ! I have dug down 
deep in your heart but not a trace do I 
see of the letters. Possibly your more 
waking self can suggest the name?" 

But the High Official's waking self 
could not. He, too, dug deep in his en- 
deavor to remember the name of the 
vision of twenty who had enthralled the 
palate and heart of the boy of twelve; 
but he could find not a hint. 

The High Official finished the cookies 
of both packages. Then, with a sigh, 
for with a full stomach his multitude of 
cares began to harass him, he touched 
the push button again and once more 
Ezra bowed at his side. 

"You can tell your Miss — what did 
you say her name was ? But you can tell 
her that her supper was wonderful. As 
to her cookies ! I am as stumped for an 
extolling word, as I was one time when 
a delegation from an Indian reservation 
presented me with a tomahawk that was 
decorated with a real scalp-lock." 

"Dey all says things 'bout them cook- 
ies," remarked Ezra. ''Miss Lavinia — 
well. Miss Lavinia is sure a master 
hand—" 

''Miss Lavinia ! Miss Lavinia — 
Whof" interrupted the High Official. 

"Miss Lavinia Ta — " began Ezra. 

But the High Official broke in and 
finished the full name himself. 

"Of course — Miss Lavinia Taylor of 
Jason on the James," said the High Offi- 
cial. "And has she brown hair and eyes 



like the hue of a bronzed oak-leaf in 
autumn ?" But the High Official laughed 
at himself before an answer came; she 
must be an old woman — certainly sixty, 
at least. 

"Yes, sir. She sure 'nough has dem 
eyes — but th' hair, — well, ez youse 
talkin' 'bout trees, dis pusson would call 
Miss Lavinia's th' color of th' bark of a 
silver-birch. Does youse knows Miss 
Lavinia, sir?" 

"I surely do," replied the High Offi- 
cial. "And what were you telling me 
about her being turned out of the posi- 
tion as post-mistress that she held for 
over twenty-five years? I do wish that 
they would consult me once in a while 
about such matters ! It does seem as if 
the heads of our departments take more 
unto themselves than is reasonable or 
warrantable. And if a wrong has been 
done, it must be righted at once. Here, 
Mr. Pembroke !" he exclaimed, turning 
in his quick, nervous way toward his pri- 
vate secretary. "Take this wire — it is of 
vital importance and is to be sent from 
the first station we make. See to it that 
a duplicate is forwarded by mail to the 
Postmaster General and that a record 
is made in the official correspondence." 

A week later Miss Lavinia received a 
communication from the post-office de- 
partment. The writer humbly asked for 
her indulgence that, in the press of offi- 
cial business and by an oversight, com- 
pliance had not been granted before to 
her reasonable request for reinstatement. 
The writer took pleasure in enclosing the 
official document that made her again the 
post-mistress of Jason, Virginia. And 
in the same mail was a letter in the neat 
handwriting of the High Official him- 
self, offering his warmest congratula- 
tions and assuring "Miss Lavinia Tay- 
lor of Jason on the James," that if the 
matter had been brought to his personal 
attention, the wrong of removing her 
from the position that she had so hon- 
orably held for so long a time would not 
have been done. 



Training the Bride's Maid 

By Dorothy Blake 



THE thrill and excitement of the 
wedding are over, the honey- 
nK)on is over and you and your 
John are home! His business will start 
again for him in the morning — the busi- 
ness in which he has been working for 
several years. Your business will start 
for you on the morrow, also, — the busi- 
ness of housekeeping which you may 
never before have attempted. 

''Better advertise for a maid right 
away," says your John. "You haven't 
had enough experience to do it by your- 
self." 

"Better not advertise for a maid right 
away," say I. "You need more experi- 
ence to keep house with a maid than 
without one." 

After you have done your own work 
for six months or a year, you will be 
capable of managing the work of a maid. 
W^ithout this probation period you will 
be quite apt to join the large number of 
women whose home-making consists 
chiefly of vainly trying to get a maid 
that will suit. 

Unless you are able to pay much more 
than the average young married woman 
can for a maid, you will have to use the 
services of one of the untrained kind — 
one who can boil potatoes, fry steak, and 
make coffee. You will not even be sure 
of getting one who can do these things 
well. How are you going to show her 
when you can't do things yourself ? 

Are you anxious to avoid the humiha- 
tion of having a stranger see how little 
you know about your business, how 
many failures you have to your record? 

Unless you are, indeed, an unusual 
bride you are sure to have some failures, 
many mistakes, and not a few tears be- 
fore you can class as a housekeeper. 
Why not have these alone when you can 
rectify them without anyone knowing 
the difference? 



I heard a man who has been married 
three years say the other day, '*! was 
lucky from the start. My wife never 
had a failure in her cooking and she got 
the three meals a day right from the first 
day we got home." I smiled to myself 
— for I happened to know his wife and 
she had often told me of the failures she 
had the first year; how the sponge cake 
refused to be puffy; how she dissected 
the first spring thicken wnth the aid of 
a hatchet, because she didn't know 
where the joints were; how the first bis- 
cuits disappeared from oven to garbage 
can, and the crust of the first lemon pie 
came to the top and refused to stay 
down. 

All of these little "experiments," as 
she called them, were good jokes after 
they were over. Through them she 
learned to cook. Through other mis- 
takes she learned to do the hundreds of 
other things that go to make up the 
business of housekeeping. Her husband 
was sweetly oblivious of these "experi- 
ments." By the time he came home 
there were other things in their places 
and, man-like, "He never thought to 
ask ; he never knew." 

At the end of the first year this young 
woman kept a maid. She was just the 
average maid, no better and no worse. 
At the end of the third year she had the 
same maid and was the envy of all her 
friends for the possession of such a per- 
fect one. The truth was, that, through 
her probation period, the bride had 
learned how to teach and manage an- 
other person. 

She knew, not from hearsay, but from 
experience, how long the work of the 
house should take, what time to start a 
meal, how often certain household tasks 
should be done. 

The dinner was not left until five 

(Continued on page 74) 



29 



30 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
Foreign Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received . 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post otfice Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership afid mafiage^nent as required by 
the Act of Congress of August 24, 1912. 

Editor: Janet M, Hill. 

Business Managers : R. B. Hill, B. M. Hill 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Entered at Boston Post-offick as Second-class Matter 



Summer 

The Summer hath so many songs 

That set my heart a singing. 
Such gladness to her reign belongs, 

For me joy-bells clear and gay, 
When robins carol clear and gay. 
When brooklets dance along the way 
It's good to live — just live, I say, 
With Summer over the land. 

— Lalia ]\Iitchell. 



The excess of sentiment, which is mis- 
leading in philanthropy and economics, 
grows acutely dangerous when it inter- 
feres with legislation, or with the ordi- 
nary rulings of morality. — Agnes Rep- 
plier. 



KITCHEN GIRLS THEIR EQUALS 

\'assar, Vassar, do not sass 'er, 
Kitchen maids have equal rights ; 

Love her, pet her, even let her 
Join your club and — fight your fights. 

AS reported, democracy, socialism, 
equal suffrage and many other 
things are included in the latest edict of 
the Students' Association at Vassar. 

In America, class distinctions are in 
no wise popular. Character and conduct 
— real merits, only, are weighed and 
considered. Democracy means liberty, 
equahty and fraternity; it also means 
government of the people, by the people 
and for the people. Here equal oppor- 
tunities to all is the goal sought for. 
Achievement is dependent on individual 
gifts, natural disposition and self-effort. 
Education is free to all; it opens a way 
for all to the highest positions in every 
calling and station of life. 

The human mind once emancipated 
from old ideas and half-truths can not 
go backwards, it must go forwards and 
rise to new truths and better ideals. 
"New occasions teach new duties. Time 
makes ancient good uncouth ; they must 
upward still and onward who would 
keep abreast of truth." No matter in 
what line of service one may be engaged, 
the skill and efficiency displayed therein 
is sure of appreciation and reward. 

A GOOD THING 

MADE in the United States" ought 
to be a good trade mark. Why 
do so many people have the idea that 
foreign goods are better than domestic or 
home-made? In many cases is it not 
true that goods made abroad are really 
superior in style, quality or durability to 
our domestic grades ? And for this rea- 
son, some are willing to pay the high 
prices or the tax on importations. At 
any rate, it is now time that American 
wares be excelled by none other in the 
world. It is poor policy to make and 
sell cheap, trashy goods. Not only pure 
foods, but reliable articles of all kinds 
are everywhere in demand. In precept 



EDITORIALS 



31 



and practice the false has been con- 
demned; Ave are standing face to face 
with a manifested want of the real 
thing. Take cooking utensils, for in- 
stance, only standard articles are de- 
sirable. Things that have been tried and 
approved by housekeepers should be held 
steadily on the market. Substitutes, or 
things just as good, though cheaper, are 
sure to be unsatisfactory. Let ''made 
in the United States" be a guaranty of 
excellence in every respect, and our 
manufacturing and commercial indus- 
tries need fear no reverses. Good things 
are readily recognized and are wanted. 

INSTRUCTION IN PUBLIC 
SCHOOLS 

THE New York Evening Post puts 
the case well: 
"Whatever arguments may apply to 
military training in colleges, there are 
none to justify the teaching of war in 
the public schools. If there is to be any 
instruction there, it should be that true 
patriotism includes all the world and is 
not restricted to any given nationality. 
T-here should be every emphasis upon 
the true character of wars and their 
causes, their greed, selfishness, wicked- 
ness, the frequent ignorance of the bulk 
of the soldiers as to what they are really 
fighting for, their barbarities and atroci- 
ties, the complete destructiveness of it 
all. That war is opposed to true religion 
and Christianity must appear as a matter 
of course, as that it checks the advance 
of all the nations in every cultural field, 
besides depleting the national treasur}^ 
and placing enormous burdens upon the 
backs of those least able to bear them. 
These are things that might properly go 
into every American^chooJ, since such 
teaching will %e-^ line with every 
American tradition and the teachings of 
the Fathers. The historians may speak 
well of the soldier whom Dr. Finley had 
in mind when he spoke of ''all the lives 
that without hate have been nobly given 
for the love of something higher than 
one's self." But that the soldier's trade 



is an anachronism, that the profession 
must yield before the spirit of interna- 
tional amit}' and brotherho<id — these are 
things that school children ought to be 
told unless they are to lose faith in some 
of the deep-lying tenets of character and 
religion." 

OPEN TO CRITICISM 

THERE is much bungling in or- 
ganization and management. Eu- 
rope now shows the dire effects of one 
colossal managerial blunder. Few will 
dispute the German Crown Prince's 
judgment that this is the most useless 
and senseless war of histor}-. Consider 
ten million nominally civilized Christian 
men — whose real interests in life are 
identical — devoting themselves unremit- 
tingly to an attempt to destroy one an- 
other, and say whether any possible 
scheme of government or social organi- 
zation could have brought a worse 
result. 

Aside from that vast error, however, 
many things are badly managed. For 
example, we are always somehow mis- 
managing credits, so that every now and 
then we run into periods of depression 
which beggar hundreds of thousands of 
men who are willing and able to work 
— and which we accept as though they 
were unavoidable visitations of an in- 
scrutable Providence, though society's 
ability to produce and consume is pa- 
tently as great in the lowest depression 
as at the highest boom. 

Other examples of bad management 
will occur in plenty. In view of them 
we might at least learn modesty. We 
might at least admit that it does not lie 
in our mouths to forbid any sort of criti- 
cism. There are enough patent social 
blunders to warrant anybody in trotting 
out any kind of alleged remedy he 
pleases. 

Certainly we do not have to take it; 
but the degree to which social criticism 
is suppressed is always a sure sign of 
the degree to which it is needed. 

— Saturday Evening Post. 



Z2 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



OVER ZEALOUSNESS 

FRETFULNESS, irritation, and 
worry are forms which overzeal- 
ousness takes. They indicate that the 
desire to do things has gone beyond na- 
tural limits either of strength or respon- 
sibility. They would often be reduced 
by a careful attention to the dividing 
lines between one person's business and 
another's. When they grow into fault- 
finding with the universe and the whole 
of life, the remedy is to consider how 
much has gone on with wonderful re- 
sults before we came on the scene and 
how much will go on after we are gone, 
and how comparatively little the Creator 
has asked of us and how imperfectly we 
have done that little, and how probable 
it is that many things will work out bet- 
ter for our letting them alone than by 
our getting anxious about them. '*Cast 
thy burden on the Lord" would be a 
maxim of good common sense if it were 
not a fundamental principle of religion. 
The ending of the sentence is not that 
we get rid of what belongs to us to 
carry, but that we get helped to carry 
it. As an aid to good temper and self- 
control there could not be a better 
maxim, a better ''first aid to the injured.'' 
— Christian Register. 

IS IT NOT MERITED? 

THIS magazine ought to have at 
least fifty thousand subscribers. 
It goes into every State of the United 
States and many other lands, but, as yet, 
its circulation has not reached this mod- 
est mark. We try to adapt the leading 
articles to the character of the magazine 
and the tastes of housekeepers in gen- 
eral. The culinary department has long 
been the leading and standard authority 
on the practical side of this important 
subject. The editor has had unprece- 
dented experience both in teaching and 
in experimental work. The departments 
of Home Ideas and Inquiries are open 
and free to subscribers for exchange of 



ideas and requests for information, 
which is freely given. Our advertising 
pages are limited to the presentation of 
the best that is produced and offered to 
meet the wants of housekeepers and 
homemakers. 

The last issues, -we think, have been 
exceptionally good. We believe Ameri- 
can Cookery is worth much more than 
its cost to every intelligent and earnest 
housekeeper. Try it, prove it, and pass 
along the information to others. We 
want to find and reach the woman; 
wherever she may be, who knows she 
needs and wants a helpful, trustworthy 
culinary periodical. 



''Yes," said Mrs. Twickenbury, "she 
pays little heed to the scriptural con- 
junctions." 



•Ballade of Sighs and Smiles 

The changing seasons may come and go, 

Aurora's chariot traverse the sky, — 
And yet 'tis as true as the winds that blow, 

Troubles and sorrows cause many a sigh — 
Which we, in our ignorance, would defy ; 

But mother-love whispers : " 'Tis well worth 
the while, 
God an antidote will supply. 

Smother your troubles with many a smile.". 

In childhood days 'twas a broken bow, 
Or a rebel kite that refused to fly ; 

Or a battered doll ; — for we all of us know- 
Troubles and sorrows cause many a sigh 

To the child heart, grieving and longing to 
cry— 
Which none but a mother can reconcile. 

As she soothingly murmurs: "My dear, just 
try, 
Smother your troubles with many a smile." 

When older — and crises their tentacles throw 

about our ambitions, so lofty and high, 

We find this an adage we never outgrow — 

Troubles and sorrows cause many a sigh, 

Which reason nor justice can e'er justify; 
But summoning courage our griefs to decry, — 

For only a coward grim fate can defile, — 
We boldly God's antidote verify— 

"Smother your troubles with many a smile." 

For life is a school in which none can deny 
Troubles and sorrows cause many a sigh ; 
Yet hark ! Hear the echo, " 'Tis well worth 

the while — 
Smother your troubles with many a smile." 

— Mrs. Caroline L. Sumner. 




FROZEN STRAWBERRIES AND CREAM 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Cream of Lettuce Soup 

REMOVE the imperfect leaves 
and cut the roots from a pound 
and a half of lettuce (three 
large heads) ; wash the perfect leaves, 
then chop rather coarse. Melt one- 
third a cup of butter in a saucepan, and 
in it cook the lettuce eight or ten min- 
utes, stirring occasionally ; add three 
pints of white broth, an onion with three 
cloves pressed into it, two sprigs of 
parsley, a teaspoonful of sugar and a 
piece of red or green pepper; cover the 
saucepan and let simmer nearly an hour ; 
strain through a puree sieve; add three 
cups of white sauce made with milk, and 
stir while reheating nearly to the boil- 
ing point, then add the beaten yolks of 
three eggs diluted with a cup of cream. 
Add also salt and pepper as needed. 
Serve six or seven egg balls in each 
plate of soup. 



Egg Balls for Lettuce Soup 

Sift soft bread crumbs to make half 
a cup when well pressed down. Pound 
the yolk of a raw egg into the crumbs 
with a pestle, adding the yolk gradually ; 
add half the bulk of bread or choux- 
paste (cream cake mixture) and mix to 
a smooth paste ; roll into a sheet, cut into 
half-inch cubes or roll in the hands into 
balls, half an inch in diameter. Fry the 
cubes or balls in clarified butter; drain 
on soft paper and use as above. 

Sardine Toast 

Remove the crust from carefully 
sliced bread, and toast a good brown. 
Have ready maitre d'hotel butter — 
(one-fourth a cup of butter beaten to a 
cream and mixed with a teaspoonful, 
each, of lemon juice and fine-chopped 
parsley, also a sprinkling of paprika) ; 
spread the bread with the prepared but- 



33 



34 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



ter. Above the butter on each shce set 
three or more sardines carefully wiped 
on a cloth to free them of oil. Set the 
toast into the oven to heat the sardines, 
then serve, at once, at breakfast, lun- 
cheon or supper. 

Breaded White Lake Fish, Baked 

Any fish from w^hich v^ell-shaped 
pieces may be cut may be cooked in this 
way : Have the fish skinned at market. 
Split the fish, remove the backbone and 
all bones possible that are attached to 
it; cut in pieces for serving; season with 
salt and pepper, grated onion and a few 
drops of lemon juice, roll in flour, then 
cover with a beaten egg diluted with 
three or four spoonfuls of milk, then 
pat in soft, sifted bread crumbs to coat 



the upper surface. Cover the saucepan 
and heat the water to the boiling point, 
then let simmer about twenty minutes. 
With a skimmer lift the fish and slip 
from the tin to a serving dish, first 
draining thoroughly ; set hot, boiled po- 
tatoes at the ends of the dish, pour a 
spoonful of drawn butter sauce over the 
potatoes and sprinkle with fine-chopped 
parsley. Serve at the same time green 
peas and cucumbers, w^ith French dress- 
ing sprinkled with chopped chives and 
parsley. 

Lettuce, Salmon-and- Green Pea 
Salad 

Separate cold, boiled salmon into 
flakes, season with French dressing and 
dispose on a nest of heart-leaves of let- 




BOILED SALMON, NEW POTATOES 



completely ; have a baking pan well but- 
tered; into it set the pieces of fish and 
let bake in a hot oven until well 
browned. Serve with mashed potatoes 
and cucumber salad. Dress the cucum- 
bers with French dressing to which 
onion juice and chopped parsley are 
added. 

Boiled Salmon (To Serve Eight 
or Ten) 

Have a piece of salmon, weighing 
about three pounds, from the center of 
the fish. Butter a small tin sheet or tin 
plate and set into a sauce pan ; on this 
lay the piece of fish ; add a tablespoonful 
of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt, 
then pour in lukewarm water nearly to 
cover the fish — do not cover the skin on 



tuce ; set groups of cooked peas seasoned 
with French dressing around the salmon, 
with leaves of lettuce between the 
groups of peas. Pass French dressing 
in a sauce boat. To serve six or eight, 
mix three-fourths a cup of olive oil, a 
scant quarter a cup of vinegar, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful, each, of salt and 
black pepper and a ^ tablespoonful of 
chopped chives or a teaspoonful of 
grated onion. Let the salmon and peas 
marinate, separately, in part of the 
dressing half an hour or longer before 
mixing the salad. 

Roast Fillet of Veal 

Have the bone taken from six pounds 
cut from the best part of the leg of veal. 
Fill the opening thus made with bread 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



35 




SLICE OF SWORDFISH, CUT FOR BROILING OR FRYING 



dressing and tie two or three strips of 
cloth or tape around the meat to keep 
the dressing in place ; season the meat 
with salt, set slices of salt pork above 
and let cook in a double roaster in a 
moderate oven about three hours and a 
half, basting frequently. Turn most of 
the fat from the baking pan ; add two 
tablespoonfuls of flour and cook and stir 
until blended with the fat, then add three 
or four tablespoonfuls of cold water and 
a cup of broth made from the bone re- 
moved from the veal; stir until boiling, 
let simmer five or six minutes, then 
strain into a bowl 

Bread Dressing for Veal 

Mix one cup and a half of soft 
bread crumbs, a tablespoonful, each, of 
chopped parsley and scraped onion, two 
tablespoonfuls of chopped green pepper 
or one Chili pepper, chopped, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
powdered thyme and one-third a cup of 
melted butter- 



Individual ]Meat Pies 

Sift together two cups of pastry flour, 
two level teaspoonfuls of baking powder 
and half a teaspoonful of salt. With 
two knives cut in half a cup of shorten- 
ing, then mix to a dough with cold 
water. About one-third a cup of water 
will be needed. Add the last of the 
water cautiously, as flour varies in the 
quantity it will absorb. Roll two-thirds 
of the paste into a sheet and use to line 
small deep tins. Roll the rest of the pas- 
try into a sheet, and spread two table- 
spoonfuls of butter over one half of it ; 
fold the paste to enclose the butter and 
roll into a sheet ; fold and roll once or 
twice more to distribute the butter 
evenly through the paste. Cut into 
rounds and make a slit in the center of 
each. Fill the tins w-ith tender, cooked 
meat and a little broth seasoned with 
salt and pepper. Chicken, veal, lamb, 
or ham, with one of the other meats, are 
all good. If cold roast meat is to be 




LETTUCE. SALMUN-AND-GREEN PEA SALAD 



36 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




INDIVIDUAL MEAT PIES 



used, let it be simmered until tender be- 
fore it is put into the pastry. Brush the 
edge of the pies with cold water and 
press the rounds of paste upon the pies. 
Bake until the paste is well colored. Re- 
move from the tins to serve either hot or 
cold. These are nice for picnics or for 
the automobile hamper. 

Beet Greens, Molded 

Wash the greens through many 
waters; add boiling water to cover and 
let cook until tender. It will take about 
three hours. Drain and press out all the 
water possible ; remove a few beets, 
nearly an inch in diameter, if there be 
such, and slip off the skins in cold water. 
Slice the beets and press them against 
the side of an earthen or agate mold at 
the bottom of the dish ; chop the greens 
fine, season with salt, pepper and butter, 
and use to fill the prepared mold; set a 
board or plate with a weight above the 



vegetables and let become chilled. When 
no small beets are available, used sliced, 
hard-cooked eggs to decorate the mold. 
Serve with French or mayonnaise dress- 
ing. 

Way Down South Cornbread 

{Repeated from Vol. VIII by request.) 

Sift together one cup of yellow or 
white cornmeal, half a teaspoonful of 
salt and two level teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder. Beat an egg light and stir into 
the dry ingredients with one quart of 
sweet milk. Turn the mixture into a 
well-buttered baking-dish holding three 
pints. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter 
cut into tiny squares. Bake in a hot 
oven about twenty-five minutes. Stir 
often until the bread begins to thicken. 
Serve with a spoon and from the baking 
dish. This is served at any one of the 
three meals. It is also served as a des- 



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BONED FILLET OF VEAL STUFFED WITH BREAD DRESSING, READY TO BAKE 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



17 




ASPARAGUS. WITH MELTED BUTTER 



sert with grated maple sugar or white 
sugar and cream. 

Asparagus, with Melted Butter 

Cut the stalks to the same length, dis- 
carding the tough portions ; trim off 
coarse scales at the root end of the stalk, 
tie in bunches, and set to cook, heads up, 
in boiling salted water. The water need 
not cover the heads. Let cook about 
twenty minutes. Have ready slices of 
toast; set the stalks on the toast, all the 
heads in one direction. Pour melted 
butter or drawn butter sauce over the 
heads and serve at once. For the sauce, 
melt two tablespoonfuls of butter; in it 
cook two tablespoonfuls of flour and 
one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, then 
add half a cup of cold water and stir 
two minutes ; add half a cup of boiling 
water and stir until smooth and boiling; 
remove from the fire and beat in three 
or four tablespoonfuls of butter. 



Cold Asparagus, Chiffonade 
Dressing 

Set carefully cooked, drained and 
chilled stalks of asparagus on a bed of 
heart-leaves of lettuce ; pour on the 
dressing and serve at once, or send the 
dressing to the table in a separate dish. 

Chiffonade Dressing 

Chop fine the white of a hard-cooked 
egg; add the yolk pressed through a 
sieve, a tablespoonful, each, of chopped 
chives, parsley, capers and cooked beet, 
half a tablespoonful of scraped onion 
pulp, half a teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika, half a cup of oil and three 
or four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Mix 
all together thoroughly. 

Bran Wafers 

Beat one-third a cup of butter to a 
cream; gradually beat in half a cup. 




ASPARAGUS, CHIFFONADE DRESSING 



38 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



each, of sugar, and molasses, then the 
white of one Ggg beaten dry, and, alter- 
nately, half a cup of water and three- 
fourths a cup of pastry flour, sifted with 
half a teaspoon ful of soda and a slightly 
roimding teaspoonful of cream-of-tar- 
tar; then mix in bran to make a stiff 
dough. Roll very thin, cut in squares 
with a sharp knife, or a pastry jagger, 
prick with a fork and bake until crisp. 

Frozen Strawberries, with Cream 

Melt one cup of sugar in two-thirds a 
cup of boiling water and let heat to the 
boiling point ; add one quart of very 



make a stiff dough — Roll a little of the 
dough into a thin sheet, stamp out into 
cakes with a doughnut cutter, set in a 
baking pan, brush over with white of 
Ggg beaten a little, dredge with granu- 
lated sugar and bake. The dough must 
be very stiff' with flour. Try one cake 
first, then add more flour if needed. The 
flavor of choice orange extract will not 
be dissipated in cooking. 

Inexpensive Sponge Cake 

Beat the whites of three eggs dry and 
the yolks until thick ; into the yolks 
gradually beat one cup of sugar, then 




STONED CHERRIES AND LETTUCE, WITH FRENCH DRESSING 



ripe, hulled strawberries and let boil five 
minutes ; add half a teaspoonful of gela- 
tine softened in two tablespoonfuls of 
cold water, then set aside to chill. 
Freeze as ice cream ; then add one cup of 
cream beaten quite firm (but not dry) 
and mixed with one-fourth a cup of, 
siigar, and turn the crank of the freezer 
a few minutes longer. Serve in glasses. 
This will serve eight. 

Jumbles 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream ; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, two 
yolks of eggs, beaten light, one cup of 
flour, sifted with two level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder, one teaspoonful of 
good orange extract, the whites of two 
eggs, beaten light, and sifted flour to 



one tablespoonful of lemon juice or vin- 
egar and two tablespoonfuls of cold 
water; fold in part of the whites, then 
one cup of sifted flour and the rest of 
the whites. Bake in a tube-pan from 
thirty to forty minutes. 

Potato Bread 

Pare two potatoes of medium size, 
cut them in halves, lengthwise, and let 
stand in cold water for some hours. 
Drain and set to cook in boiling, salted 
water. When done press through a 
ricer ; there should be about one cup and 
a half ; add two cups of scalded milk, 
two tablespoonfuls of shortening, two 
level tablespoonfuls of sugar and one 
teaspoonful of salt ; then when luke- 
warm add a veast cake softened and 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



39 



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STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE 



mixed with half a cup of lukew^arm 
water and about seven cups of bread 
flour and mix to a dough. The dough 
should be mixed rather firm as it softens 
on rising and is not easily handled. 
When light, shape into two loaves. 
When again light, bake one hour. 

Strawberry Shortcake 

Hull, wash, and drain two baskets of 
berries. Save a few choice fruits for a 
garnish, and cut the rest in halves. Mix 
the latter with one cup and a half of 
sugar, and set aside for an hour or more 
in a warm place. 

Sift together one cup and a half ot 
pastry flour, half a cup of cornstarch, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, and four level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. With 
the tips of the fingers work into these 
ingredients one-fourth a cup of butter; 
add, gradually, about one cup of milk, 
mixing with a knife to form a rather 



soft dough. Toss on a floured board 
and knead lightly. Divide into two 
pieces. Pat, and roll out to fit a round 
cakepan. Put one piece on the pan, 
spread the top with softened butter, and 
place the other lightly above it. Bake 
in a quick oven fifteen or twenty min- 
utes. Pull the two layers apart, and 
spread liberally with softened butter. 
Put one layer on a serving-dish, pour 
over half of the sugared berries ; above 
this put the other layer, then the rest 
of the berries. 

Add one- fourth a cup of milk to a cup 
of thick cream, and beat until stiff; add 
three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 
and, if desired, half a teaspoonful of 
vanilla ; and, when well mixed, use as a 
garnish for the top of the cake. 

White Cake 

Beat half a cup and two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter to a cream ; gradually 




WHITE CAKE 



40 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



beat in two cups of sugar, then, alter- 
nately, one cup of cold water, two cups 
and a half of sifted flour, sifted again 
with two slightly rounding teaspoon- 
fuls of baking powder, and, lastly, the 
whites of four eggs beaten dry. Bake 
in two pans about 7x10 inches, or the 
equivalent, (eighteen to twenty-five min- 
utes baking will be needed.) Put to- 
gether with boiled frosting. Nut meats, 
broken in pieces, may be added to the 
frosting between the layers, and half 
nut meats be used to embellish the top. 

Boiled Frosting for White Cake 

Melt one cup and a half of sugar in 
half a cup of boiling water ; wash down 
the inside of the saucepan to remove 
grains of sugar, cover and let boil rap- 
idly three minutes ; remove the cover 
and let boil to 238° F. Pour in a fine 
stream on the whites of two eggs beaten 
very light, beating constantly meanwhile. 
Flavor when cold with half a teaspoon- 
ful of vanilla. 

Stuffed Pears, Conde 

Pare and cut six pears in halves ; take 
•out the cores, but leave the stems in 
place on one half of each pear. Sim- 



mer the pears in a cup of sugar and a 
cup of water until tender. Have ready 
a dozen blanched almonds chopped fine; 
mix these through half a cup of marma- 
lade, pineapple or orange-and-pineapple 
is, either of them, good. Apple, peach 
or apricot are not as common, perhaps, 
but are good for this dish. Fill the 
open space in the half-pears with the 
nut preparation and put corresponding 
halves together. Dispose the pears on a 
border (shaped with two spoons) of 
cooked rice. Fill the center with more 
of the marmalade. Serve whipped 
cream or mock cream in a dish. The 
rice may be plain, boiled rice, or rice 
cooked in milk, with or without the ad- 
dition of two tablespoonfuls of sugar, an 
egg-yolk, and one- fourth a cup of the 
marmalade. 

Mock Cream 

Scald one pint of milk in a double 
boiler; stir two level teaspoonfuls of 
cornstarch with two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of cold milk, then stir into the hot 
milk ; let cook ten minutes ; add one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt and two ta- 
blespoonfuls of sugar and let chill. 
Fold in the whites of two eggs. 




STUFFED PEARS, CONDE 



Menus for One Week in June 

// is a tragic tiling to think that in the big cities of America thousands of school 
children are underfed. — HunuARn. 



Breakfast 

Strawberries 

Bacon Cooked in the Oven 

Yeast Rolls (reheated) 

Cornmeal Muffins 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Tomato Soup 

Breaded Veal Cutlets, Brown Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes, New Onions, Cold 

Asparagus. French Dressing 

Strawberry Coupe 

Inexpensive Sponge Cake 

Supper 

Potato Salad 

Sardines 

Bread and Butter 

Strawberries 



< 

O 

< 

CO 



Breakfast 

Stewed Prunes 

Mashed Potato Cakes. Baked 

Bacon Cooked in Oven 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

• Dinner 

Cream of Asparagus Soup 

Swordfish. Sauted 

Mashed Potatoes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Green Currant or Lemon Pie 

Supper 

Strawberry Shortcake 
Tea 



Breakfast 

Pineapple 

Kornlet Oysters 

Way-Down-South Cornbread 

Dry Toast 

Cocoa Coffee 

Dinner 

Roast Veal, Bread Dressing 

Beet Greens 

Potatoes Scalloped, with Peppe^^ 

Caramel Custard Renversee 

Bran Wafers 

Supper 

Rice Scalloped, with Cheese 

Stewed Prunes 

Ginger Snaps 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Sliced Bananas 

Thin Cream 

Broiled Tripe 

French Fried Potatoes 

Ryemeal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cream of Onion Soup 

Individual Meat Pies (Veal) 

Lettuce, Chiffonade Sauce 

Hot Cornstarch Pudding 

Strawberry Hard Sauce 

Supper 

Cold Beet Greens, Molded with 

Sliced Eggs. Mayonnaise Dressing 

Parker House Rolls 

Chocolate Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Strawberries or Cereal 

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin 

Creamed Potatoes Radishes 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Green Peppers Stuft'ed with Rice, 

Tomato Sauce 

Strawberry Shortcake 

Browned Crackers Cheese 

Coffee 

Supper 

Cream Toast 

Evaporated Peaches. Stewed 

Chocolate Cake 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Strawberries 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Horseradish 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Broiled Bluefish 
New Beets Mashed Potatoes 
Canned Cherry Pie 
Cheese 

Supper 

Baked Potatoes 

Smoked Halibut, Creamed 

Pickled Beets 

Yeast Biscuit 



Breakfast 

Stewed Prunes 

Eggs Cooked in Shell 

Fried Mush Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Calf's Liver.- Braised 

Sauted Carrots 

New Onions, Buttered 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Cottage Pudding, 



Supper 

Boston Baked Beans, 
Chili Sauce 
Boston Brown Bread with 
■ Raisins 
Sugared Pineapple 
Strawberry Hard Sauce or Economical Sponge Cake 
Rhubarb Pie Tea 



41 



Menus for One Week in July 

Almost every one who has an unliniifed quantity of food at his disposal overeats. 

—ITUBBARl). 



Breakfast 

Blueberries 

Salt Codfish Balls, Bacon Peppergrass 

Coffee Sally Lunn Cocoa 

Dinner 

Consomme a la Royal 

Boiled Salmon, Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Onions 

Green Peas 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Raspberry Sherbet Sponge Cake 

Supper 

Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 

Potato Salad, or Creamed Potatoes 

Parker House Rolls (reheated) 

Canned Peaches Cake 



Breakfast 

Hashed Calf's Liver 
Potatoes Cooked in Milk 

Radishes 

Fried Mush, Maple Syrup 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Sword Fish, Sauted 

Mashed Potatoes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing, with Chives 

Summer Squash 

Pears, with Rice, Conde 

Supper 

Broiled Tomatoes, with Cheese on Toast 
Pop Overs 
Raspberries 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Bananas, Thin Cream 

Puffy Omelet, Tomato Sauce 

Dry Toast 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stuffed Fillet of Veal, Baked, 

Spiced Gooseberries 

Mashed Potatoes Kohl Rabi, Creamed 

Beet Greens 

Raspberry Shortcake 

Supper 

Salmon, Lettuce-and-Green Pea Salad 

Bread and Butter 

Blueberries 



Breakfast 

Figs, Cereal, Thin Cream 

Pickled Lambs' Tongues 

Eggs Cooked in the Shell 

Hashed Potatoes 

Coffee Rice Griddle Cakes Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Breast of Lamb, Caper Sauce 

New Turnips Beet Greens 

Cherry Pie Cottage Cheese 

Supper 

Stewed Lima Beans (dried) 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce, Mustard and 

Sliced Eggs 

Yeast Rolls Stewed Plums 

Cake Tea 



Breakfast 

Calf's Liver, Fried Bacon 
Garden Cress with Salt 
Creamed Potatoes 
Coffee Breakfast Corn Cake Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Souffle, Tomato Sauce 

Boiled Onions, Buttered 

Midribs of Swiss Chard on Toast 

Mashed Potatoes 

Bananas Baked, with Orange Juice 

Cheese 

Lettuce, with Mustard Leaves, 

French Dressing, 

Chiffonade Pulled Bread 

Supper 

Savory Rice Croquettes 

Bread and Butter 

Cake Blueberries Tea 



Breakfast 

Raspberries 

Sardines on Deviled Toast 

Scrambled Eggs Water Cress 

Doughnuts Coffee 

Dinner 

Baked Bluefish, Bread Dressing, 

Caper Sauce 

Mashed Potatoes 

Swiss Chard (greens) 

Lemon Sherbert (Milk) 



Supper 

Hot String Beans, with Chives 

Parsley 

Lemon Juice and Butter 

Rye Bread and Butter 

Raspberry Shortcake 



and 



Breakfast 

Berries 

Creamed Salt Codfish 

Small Baked Potatoes 

Twin Mountain Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Steamed Shoulder of Lamb 

Caper Sauce 

Boiled New Potatoes 

New Carrots, Sauted 

Bermuda Onions, Buttered 

Gooseberry Pie 

Cheese 

42 



Supper 

Green Peas 
Baking Powder Biscuit 
Dried Apricots Stewed 

Cream Pie 
Tea 



Nutritious Six O'clock Supper Menus for July 

{By Request for Summer Resorts) 



I. 

Broiled Fresh Fish 

French Fried Potatoes 

String Bean Salad, v/ith Sliced Eggs 

Small Sponge Cakes, Mocha Frosting 

II. 

Green Pea Soup, St. Germain 

(green pea timbale in each plate) 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Tomatoes 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Canned Apricot Sherbet 

Oatmeal Macaroons or Bran Wafers 

III. 

Cold Roast Meat 

Scalloped Egg Plant 

Ryemeal Muffins 

Red Raspberries 

Cake 

IV. 

Cheese Croquettes, Tomato Sauce 

Lettuce-and-Salmon Salad 

Graham Bread 

Raspberry Shortcake 

V. 

Consomme, with Poached Eggs 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Veal 

Bread and Butter 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

VL 

Fresh Fish Croquettes, Sauce Tartare 

or Cucumber Salad 

Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce 

Scalloped Tomatoes 

Canned Peaches 

Cake 

VII. 

Meat Pie Cold Boiled Ham 

Green Peas 

Way-Down-South Cornbread 

Eclairs, with Strawberry Preserves 

viii.- 

Chicken a la King 

Toast 

Veal Souffle, Mushroom Sauce 

Baking Powder Biscuit 
Rice Croquettes, with Preserves 

IX. 

Ham Timbales, Tomato Sauce 

Creamed Veal, Green Peas and Pimientos 

Pop Overs 

Blueberries 

Cake 

X. 

Rice a la Milanaise 

Cold Roast Meat 

Dried Lima-Bean Salad 

Whole Wheat Yeast Rolls 

Stewed Cherries 



XL 

Macaroni Baked with Cheese 

Cold Boiled Tongue, Mustard 

Cold String Beans, French Dressing, 

with Garlic 

Blueberry Tea Cake 

XII. 

Lamb Broth, with Barley 

Salmon Croquettes 

Cucumbers, French Dressing, with 

Minute Pearl Onions and Parsley 

Canned Apricot Shortcake 

XIII. 

Welsh Rabbit, with Bacon 

and Poached Eggs 

Frizzled Smoked Beef 

Baked Potatoes 

Sliced Pineapple Cake 

XIV. 

Fillets of White Lake-Fish Breaded, Baked 

Potato Croquettes or Baked Potato (mashed) 

Cakes 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Broiled Tomatoes on Toast 

Stewed or Canned Pears 
Sponge Cake (potato flour) 

XV. 

Cold Roast Meat 

Tomato Jelly molded with Macedoine of 

Vegetables, Lettuce, Mayonnaise Dressing 

Egg Plant Fritters 

Custard, with Snow Eggs 

Lady Fingers 

XVL 

Broiled Squahs. 

Orange-and- Watercress Salad 

Hot Ham Sandwiches 

Green Pea Omelet Toast 

Orange-and-Pineapple Marmalade 

Tea 

XVIIL 

Hot Cheese Timbales, Tomato Sauce 

Cold Corned Beef Potato Salad 

Beet Greens Molded with Sliced Eggs, 

Graham Bread, Mayonnaise Dressing 

iBismark Rings 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

XVIIL 

Scrapped Beef Cakes, Pan Broiled 

Egg Timbales, Bread Sauce 

Molded Spinach, Sauce Tartare Toast 

Hot Baba, Raspberry Sauce 

XIX. 

Green Peppers, Stuffed and Baked 
Chopped Ham molded in Aspic 
Lettuce, French Dressing- 
Parker House Rolls 
Vanilla Ice Cream in Cups, 
Raspberry Sauce 



43 



44 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



XX. 

Chickon (jiiinl)o Soup 

Cheese Crucjiiettcs, Lettuce, French Dressinj 

Bhicbcrry Tea Cake 

XXI. 

Lettuce Soup, with Egg Balls 
Club Sandwiches 

Shirred Eggs 

Sliced Peaches or 

Stewed Evaporated Peaches 

Caramel Cake 

XXIL 

Veal Souffle, Mushroom Sauce 

Green Pea Omelet 

Pickled Beets 

Baking- Powder Biscuit 

Canned Apricot Sherbet Cake 

XXIII. 

Creamed Fresh Fish au Gratin 

Scalloped Potatoes 

String Bean Salad Eggs to order 

Southern Beaten Biscuit 

Dark Graham Bread 

Lemon Sherbet 

XXIV. 

Pigeons en Casserole, with Vegetables 

Lettuce-and-Pear Salad 

Creamed Onions on Toast 

Toasted Crackers, Cheese Balls (fried) 

Coffee 

XXV. 

Corned Beef-and-Potato Hash, 

Chili Sauce 

Scrambled Eggs 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Tomatoes 

Boston Brown Bread, with Raisins 

Parker House Rolls 

Pineapple Omelet 



XXVT. 

Vegetable Soup 

Cold Veal Loaf, Sliced Thin 

Poached F.ggs on Toast 

New Cabbage Salad or 

String Bean Salad 

Sally Lunn, Toasted. Sugar, Cinnamon, etc 

Cocoa, Whipped Cream 

XXVII. 

Fillets of Fresh Fish, Sauted 

Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked 

Baked Potatoes 

New Beets, Buttered 

Spider Corn Cake, French Bread 

Sweet Rice Croquettes, Preserves or Sauce 

XXVIIL 

Fresh Fish Chowder, Crackers 

Olives Pickles 

Cold Meat, Sliced Thin 

French Fried Potatoes 

Sally Lunn 

Raspberries 

Coffee 

XXIX. 

Eggs Poached, in Tomato Sauce 

on Toast 

Macaroni a la Milanaise 

Cold Meat, Sliced Thin 

Ryemeal Biscuit 

Raspberry Sherbet, Whipped Cream 

Sponge Cake 

XXX. 

Sardines on Toast, with Cream 

Fresh Fish in Aspic, Lettuce 

French Dressing 

Lamb Rechaufee, with ^Macaroni 

Kornlet-and-Potato Croquettes 

Yeast Biscuit 

Blueberries 



Nutritive Value of Foods 

Considered by the Everyday Housekeeper 

By Mrs. R. M. Esgar 



THE term food, as used in popular 
sense, includes everything we 
eat for the purpose of nourish- 
ing the body. 

(1) Food is that which, partaken 
and assimilated, builds tissue or yields 
energy in the body. 

(2) The most healthful food is that 
which is best fitted to the needs of the 
user. 

(3) The cheapest food is that which 



furnishes the largest amount of nutri- 
ment at the least cost. 

(4) The best food is that which is 
both healthful and cheapest. 

Theory is one thing. Practice is quite 
another thing. The knowledge of chem- 
istry, bacteriology and psychology is 
very desirable and healthful to any one, 
but this knowledge will not directly or 
indirectly prepare the dinner. The abil- 
ity to draw on paper the plans of a 



NUTRiTRE XALL'E OF FOODS 



45 



bridge over a river, or of a tunnel be- 
neath it, indicates rare talent that is in- 
dispensable to industrial progress, but at 
the same time the actual building of 
these structures requires another kind 
of training. This is an industrial age. 
Our technical and vocational schools are 
drawing the largest patronage in all 
parts of the land. Teachers of domes- 
tic science are in process of training, 
and the demand for these teachers is in- 
creasing, and yet the call for trained 
housekeepers is much larger. Compara- 
tively few can aspire to teach and 
qualify therefor. While most women 
should know how to cook, to prepare 
and serve food to satisfy the ever}'-day 
needs of the human body, and this 
knowledge does not come from theory 
and instruction alone, but chiefly from 
practical experience and manipulation. 
The work itself must be done, and a fair 
degree of skill is attained only by a con- 
stant repetition of the processes. Ap- 
plied science only can suffice to satisfy 
the needs of modern hfe. The practical 
application of theoretical and scientific 
knowledge, already approved, is the 
pressing need in the home of to-day. 
As one writer has said, ''Cooks are born, 
not made.'' 

Turning to general rules for scientific 
meal-making, the most important rule is 
founded upon the fact that we must find 
in our food the necessar}^ substances for 
the repairing of our bodies, and for the 
production of energ\' through which 
work is performed. Food substances, 
from this point of view, are divided into 
the following classes : 

(1) Protein, which builds and repairs tissue. 

(2) Fat, which yields heat and energy. 

(3) Carbohydrates, which yield heat and 

energy, also. 

(4) Mineral water and ash aid digestion 

and build bone. 

(5) Water aids all other food principles in 

their work to maintain the body. 

The most necessary of these sub- 
stances is "Protein." It is also the most 
complicated. "Protein" is called by a 
different name in almost everv food 



wherein it is found. For instance : It is 
called albumen in eggs ; casein in milk ; 
gluten in wheat. The composition of 
foods is determined by chemical analy- 
sis. The first effective impulse to the 
systematic study of chemistry of foods 
was given by Liebeg, somewhat over 
fifty years ago. In ancient times scien- 
tists thought the universe was made 
up of four elements, namely: Fire, 
water, earth and air. This theory was 
expounded by Thales, a (ireek philoso- 
pher, about five hundred years before 
Christ. To-da}-, scientists have discov- 
ered about eighty elements. Doubtless, 
there are still more to be discovered. 
Among these eighty elements, of which 
food is largely made up, are carbon, 
hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulphur, 
iron and calcium. Nitrogen is found 
only in '"Protein" foods, and it is ab- 
solutely essential to all living bodies, 
hence we could live longer without 
starchy foods than we could without 
''Protein" foods. Analysis tells us that 
the Ggg contains the same constituents, 
practically, as corn or wheat but has a 
larger per cent of "Protein." To the 
chemist an egg is simply water, protein, 
fat, ash, etc., the same as wheat and 
corn. The only vital food distinction 
between a bushel of wheat and a bushel 
of eggs, is that the eggs are more pal- 
atable and nutritious. As all food must 
be in a liquid fomi before it can be as- 
similated, it is to be inferred that, dis- 
regarding appearances and taste, protein, 
as it is found in raw eggs, milk, juices 
of meat and fish, is in a more digestible 
form than when it has been cooked, but 
to suit the palate, we demand the appli- 
cation of heat, which coagulates the al- 
buminous juices. But such application 
of heat to articles rich in protein is 
wasteful of the products and detracts 
from the digestibility. According to 
Professor Sherman, of Columbia Uni- 
versity, lime starvation is becoming al- 
most universal among the people of the 
United States, because of their use of 
fine flour bread. This fine bread con- 



46 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



tains only one gram of lime to the 
pound, while whole-wheat bread con- 
tains four times as much. This impor- 
tant nutritive element, which is almost 
entirely lacking in fine flour bread, is 
just as necessary as are carbohydrates, 
fats and proteins. 

Food value or food standard is often 
determined by the number of calories 
one person requires per day. A calorie 
is a unit by which heat is measured in 
the body or in any food. It has been 
determined by Dr. Langworthy of the 
bureau of foods in the department of 
agriculture at Washington, D. C, that 
man at manual labor requires, to keep 
healthy, 3,200 calories per day; at rest, 
about 2,000 calories per day. One calo- 
rie is the amount of heat necessary to 
raise one gram of water one degree cen- 
tigrade. 

8 grams make one ounce. 
16 ounces make one pound. 
1 gram of protein yields four calories. 
1 gram of fat yields nine calories. 
1 gram' of carbohydrates yields four calories. 

Mineral matter and water have no 
food value. All starch and sugar foods 
come under carbohydrates ; also the 
acids and minerals. A very large per 
cent of all foods is made up of water. 
For instance, such foods as eggs, which 
have 1Z.7 per cent water; cabbage, 95.5 
per cent water; celery, 93.4 per cent 
water; potatoes, 78.3 per cent water; 
bananas, 75.3 per cent water, and steak, 
70 per cent. 

Generally speaking, all fruit (acid) 
and vegetables (minerals) come under 
the head of carbohydrates, but they also 
contain mineral matter and acid. Bread, 
cakes, puddings, ices, candies, etc., are 
considered carbohydrates. Milk is called 
as near a perfect food as we have. That 
is why infants are fed with it. It is not 
a strong enough food for an adult, as it 
contains too much water and not enough 
solid matter. It is the best source of 
lime we have. The per-cent composition 
of milk is: 



Mineral matter 7 per cent. 

Protein 2).Z " 

Fat 4. 

Carbohydrates 5. " " 

Water 87. 

Total KJO '• " 

One pint of milk weighs one pound ; 
two glasses contain practically two hun- 
dred calories of food value. It is called 
a perfect food because it contains all the 
principals. No food can replace it satis- 
factorily in the diet of growing children 
or animals. Following is a list of food 
principals, and some common foods un- 
der each: 

Protein CarboJi yd rales 

1 Lean Meat Tlour 

2 Fish Sugar 

3 Eggs Starch 

4 Cheese Macaroni 

5 Dried Peas Crackers 

6 Navy Beans Rolled Oats 

7 Cottage Cheese Bread 

8 Sardines Cocoa 

9 Lobsters Potatoes 

10 Walnuts Almonds 

11 Dried Beef Peas 

12 Peanuts Beans 
Fat Ash 
Lard Cod Fish 
Butter Corned Beef 
Olive Oil Lean Ham 
Cottolene Bacon 
Bacon Currants 
Walnuts Prunes 
Almonds Almonds 
Chocolate Chocolate 
Chops Oat Meal 
Olives Dried Beans 
Cheese Gelatine 
Sardines Peaches 

Too often housewives make the mis- 
take of serving foods containing the 
same value at the same meal. For in- 
stance, when serving pork or fats, do not 
use sweet pickles or too rich desserts. 
On the other hand, when serving lean 
meats, blend richer foods. There are 
really five general rules to remember in 
serving all forms of pork. First, use 
acid fruits, such as apples, etc. Second, 
use vegetables such as beets, cabbage 
and cauliflower. Third, use only one 
starchy vegetable. Fourth, use simple 
desserts, such as gelatine. Fifth, use 
sour jelly. I here give some menus for 
what is termed well balanced meals. 



NUTRITIVE VALUE OF FOODS 



47 



Roast Pork Currant Jelly 

Brown Potatoes Gravy 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Baked Apples in Casserole 



Mutton 



Pea Soup 

Rice Croquettes 
Mint Jelly Cream Onions 

Custard 



Vegetable Soup 

Veal, Tomato Sauce Mashed Potatoes 

Beans Celery 

Rice Pudding 



Tomato Soup 

Roast Beef, Mushroom Sauce 

Gravy Browned Potatoes 

Apple Fritters . 

SquasJi Tomato-and-Lettuce Salad 

Fruit Pie 

By simply turning over the pages of 
your favorite cook book or culinary pub- 
lication, and picking out something that 
sounds as if it might taste good, your 
full duty to the meal is not done. No 
single book or magazine contains all the 
help the average housekeeper needs for 
this task. First of all, one should ac- 
quire an elementary, but sound knowl- 
edge of the properties and values of the 
different foods, also as to how to cook 
them properly. Varieties of foods are 
desirable, and people are learning, from 
day to day, to beware of adulterations 
and preservatives. 

We live not upon what we eat, but 



upon what we digest. The value of food 
for nutriment depends mainly upon its 
composition and digestibility. There is 
much truth in the saying, "An apple a 
day will keep the doctor away." If "the 
onion a day, which keeps every one 
away" is added, a good beginning is 
made towards a healthful dietary. It is 
very necessary that we, housekeepers 
and mothers, study the value of foods, to 
be able to give our families the proper 
nourishing foods. If the human engine 
is not well cared for, it responds to its 
task no better than does the poorly sup- 
plied and badly cared for automobile. 

I think every girl should, some time 
during her school years, study dietetics, 
and I believe the time will come when it 
will be a much more popular study than 
it is to-day. 

As the habits and conditions of indi- 
viduals differ, so do their needs for 
nourishment differ, and their food 
should be adapted to their particular re- 
quirements. 

People talk a great deal these days 
about the high cost of living. One of 
the principal reasons is the higher stand- 
ard of living ; that is, we eat better food, 
wear better clothes, etc. 

"It costs a lot to live these days, more than 
in days of yore; 
But when we come to think of it, it's 
worth a great deal more." 



The Bakery Cart 

A Kingdom falls and a Monarch dies — 

But there's always need for lemon pies 

And jelly-rolls, and the Bakery Cart 

Hobbles its way from house to mart. 

The old pine bureau in its back 

Is filled with many a greasy snack: 

"Hermits," and "Sinkers," and "Sugar-snaps," 

A "Chocolate Square," that the Baker taps 

Lovingly on the underside : 

A frosty night, and a long ride, 

And the jangling bell that picks its way 

Into the deep of twilight grey. 

Agnes Porter. 



Six Successful Supper Picnics 



By M. P. Tubby 



TO our Adirondack lake have 
come, as yet, neither automobiles 
nor launches. Large flocks of 
ducks, loons, great blue herons, a pair 
of snowy gulls and countless grosbeaks 
share our camping ground. Occasional 
visitors are solemn eagles, big, scornful 
hawks, and clumsy-footed bears. Quiet 
paddlers, at twilight, or at dawn, see 
deer more often than not. Since hunt- 
ing licenses have been thrust upon an 
unwilling State, even the rare shots 
echoing and re-echoing among the hills 
have ceased to break the silence. 

Therefore, with us, a picnic is really 
a picnic — not a spread of thermos bottles 
and fine china and linen-ware — but a 
luscious meal, easily assembled and 
easily transported. We have picnicked 
at morning, at noon, and at night, some- 
times, indeed, because the camp-cook 
needed to be free of us on a wash-day, 
more often because the gypsy spirit 
called us even beyond our log and canvas 
walls. 

Breakfast picnics have a charm all 
their own, and noon picnics are not to 
be despised — but the perfect picnic is the 
sunset feast, when the day's work or 
play has ended, and the gentle twilight is 
to be followed by sound sleep on fra- 
grant balsam beds. 

This year, it chanced that the first six 
picnic grounds were widely different in 
character, and that the menus were so 
well received by our party of four as to 
suggest their possible usefulness to other 
campers. The day after we reached 
camp, we made for the lily pond, both 
for the sake of the lovely flowers, and 
because we knew that strawberries, 
growing in the nearby fields, must be 
fully ripe, and would soon be drying up. 
Trusting to supply our dessert on the 
spot, and knowing that the carry to the 
pond was long and rough, and that we 
would have to spell one another with the 



canoes, we took for this meal only a big 
loaf of Boston brown bread, sliced, but- 
tered, and made into sandwiches, with 
cream cheese and chopped olives, a 
package of erbstwurst, with a pail in 
which to boil the water for making it 
into soup, and a box of gingersnaps. 
For the only time in the camp's history, 
the fire persistently went out, so that the 
gingersnaps were eaten before the soup 
boiled, and strawberries made the middle 
course; yet everybody was happy, and 
the soup tasted all the better in the cool 
of the evening, when virtue had finally 
been rewarded with a heap of fine 
embers. 

Opposite the camp, more than a mile 
across the water, is Sunset Rock — the 
name a genuine lucus a non, for it lies 
to the east, yet from it the sun's setting 
is most gloriously displayed. Thither 
we go on Sunday nights, often with a 
guitar to supply chords to steady us 
through the hymns which some one is 
sure to start as the sky grows dim. The 
first Sunday this year, we took for sup- 
per sardine-and-peanut butter sand- 
wiches, a pot of orange marmalade to be 
eaten on salted whole-wheat crackers, 
coffee, and a glass jar of figs. Beyond 
the rock, blueberries grow among the 
pines on the ledges, and a birchbark dish, 
made on the spot, was soon filled with 
fruit, so sweet, we needed no sugar. 

The Snowy Mountain supper, served 
at an elevation of 3900 feet, after a 
four-mile row, followed by a stiff climb 
taking nearly three hours, required hot 
food and plenty of it. Yet it was wise 
to avoid heavy packs. We, therefore, 
filled a five-pound lard pail with pre- 
pared pancake flour, leaving room in the 
middle of the flour for an egg, a gener- 
ous lump of butter, and a two-inch cube 
of pork with the rind left on. This pail, 
together with the knives and forks, four 
steero soup tablets and a pound of 



48 



SIX SUCCESSFUL SUPPER PICNICS 



49 



stuffed prunes went into a fish creel and 
composed one person's pack. The pan- 
cake griddle wrapped in newspaper, 
handle up, went flat into a heavy canvas 
German ruchsack, with our sweaters. 
Our light-weight carried a lard pail, ten- 
pound size, empty, save for four half- 
pint cups, four paper plates, four tin 
forks, and one knife with short blade. 
To the fourth camper were entrusted 
camera, barometer, compass and field 
glasses, together with a bottle of maple 
syrup. 

Arrived at the mountain top, pancakes 
were mixed in the big pail, water for 
soup was boiled in the small pail, the 
pork was used to grease the griddle, and 
the broad-bladed knife became a pan- 
cake turner. That night the fire-warden 
lent us a tent, and made our balsam beds, 
giving us a breakfast of coffee, trout, 
and biscuit, before we left him in the 
morning. In more strenuous years, we 
have taken the return trail by moonlight, 
and reached home before midnight. 

For our fourth picnic at the top of 
Squaw Brook, small packs were again 
advisable, since we wished to be free to 
fish, and to make the nine-mile hike in 
good time. We needed neither sweaters 
nor glasses, and we took one loaf of 
white bread, cut and buttered, two table- 
spoonfuls of tea, 1 lemon, Yi cup sugar, 
12 slices of bacon, 1 cup of nut meats, 
and y2 cup of raisins. The raisins were 
wrapped in paper and set on top of the 
sugar. The cup thus filled was set into 
an empty cup, as was the cup filled with 
the nut meats ; then they, with the bacon 
and the lemon, were packed in the five- 
pound pail, and put into a creel. At sup- 
per time, which fell when the fish ceased 
to bite, we made a broiler for the trout, 
cooked the bacon on pointed sticks, 
stirred the tea into one pail of boil- 
ing water, added lemon and sugar, and 
supped Hke kings. Perhaps I should 
say here, that trout eaten with bacon 
need no salt, and that twigs always serve 
us for spoons. 

Our fifth picnic on the banks of the 



river flowing out of our lake, necessi- 
tated no climb, nor long walk, so we 
carried a pot of cocoa, needing only 
to be heated, a bottle of olives, chicken- 
and-lettuce sandwiches, fruit, cake, and 
a box of chocolates. Some one sug- 
gested lemonade, for the day was warm, 
but was promptly voted down, since a 
picnic, without the necessity of a camp 
fire, is no picnic at all. 

Yet, for the sixth picnic, on Rasp- 
berry Island, we yielded to lemonade, 
and took it in a large pail, with one lump 
of ice in the pail and another, well- 
wrapped, under the seat of the boat. 
The island is three miles up the lake, 
well out from shore, and boasts no 
spring and no large trees. Hence, 
"carry your coolness with you" has be- 
come our rule. For the solid part of our 
supper, we had minced lamb-and- jelly 
sandwiches, crackers, spread with date- 
nut butter, spiced cookies and, of course, 
quantities of raspberries. 

RESUME OF MENUS 

I. 

LHy Pond Picnic 

Erbstwtirst 

Rrownbread Sandwiches 

Cream Cheese Olives 

Strawberries Gingersnaps 

II. 

Lake Shore Picnic 

Sardine Sandwiches 

Peanut Butter Sandwiches 

Orange Marmalade Whole Wheat Crackers 

Figs Blueberries 

III. 

Mountain Top Picnic 

Soup 

Pancakes and Maple Syrup 

Stuffed Prunes 

IV. 

Brook-Side Picnic 

Bread and Butter Bacon Trout 

Tea Nuts and Raisins 

V. 

River Bank Picnic 

Chicken-and-Lettuce Sandwiches 

Olives Cocoa 

Fruit Cake Candy 

YI. 

Island Picnic 

Lamb Sandwiches Jelly Sandwiches 

Date-nut Butter Crackers Cookies 

Raspberries 



Points on Canning and Preserving, Jelly and Pickle- 
Making 



Bv Janet M. Hill 



WITH June begins the season in 
which an oversupply of ber- 
ries, fruit and vegetables is 
stored for use when the fresh supply is 
exhausted. 

Our mothers and grandn^others dried 
berries, fruit, squash, and pumpkin ; they 
also preserved fruit in sugar syrup, 
pound for pound, made fruit jellies and 
jams, and kept cucumbers, cabbage and 
peppers either in salt or vinegar. All 
these things are done, today, to a certain 
extent, but, in addition, many vegetables 
and fruit are kept in such a manner that 
the original fresh taste is in large meas- 
ure retained, and at practically no ex- 
pense, save the cost of jars, the fuel and 
time spent in the work. The following 
points are given as essentials in the 
preservation of fruit and vegetables by 
the above processes. 

Essentials in Canning 

The food itself and everything with 
which it comes in contact must be 
sterilized by heat, then this sterile food 
must be sealed at once to exclude all or- 
ganisms from without. All cans and 
utensils used must be kept in boiling 
water until the moment of use. 

Only young tender vegetables may be 
canned successfully. As vegetables ma- 
ture, the sugar in composition is changed 
to starch, and it is more difficult to ster- 
ilize starch than sugar. 

Soft fruits and berries require but a 



few minutes' cooking. Almost any food 
substance, — save corn and shell-beans — 
cooked in the can, will turn out success- 
fully, or keep, if the cooking or process 
of sterilization continues until the arti- 
cle is in the condition it should be to be 
served at once, provided the jar be then 
filled to overflow with boiling liquid and 
covered hermetically with a sterile cover. 

The addition of a small quantity of 
sugar to canned fruit does not add to its 
keeping qualities; just the same care in 
steriHzing jars, covers, and all utensils 
that come in contact with the cooked 
fruit must be observed as if no sugar 
was used. 

Rubber rings should be new each sea- 
son. 

In Making Preserves 

The fruit should not be overripe, as 
the retention of the article in perfect 
shape is of importance. 

Soft fruits should be set to cook in 
a rich syrup; usually from three-fourths 
to a full pound of sugar is used to a 
pound of fruit. 

As sugar tends to harden fruit, firm 
fruit, like quinces, hard pears, and crab- 
apples, should be cooked in water until 
just tender before it is added to the 
syrup. The same thing is true of citrus 
fruit made into marmalade. 

The water in which the fruit is 
cooked, a few pieces at a time, may be 
used in making the syrup. After the 



50 



POINTS ON CANNING AND PRESERVING 



51 



fruit is cooked in the syrup, this syrup 
may be reduced by cooking to a thicker 
consistency before it is poured over the 
fruit. 

Preserves may be stored as jelly or as 
canned fruit. 

Canned fruit is for daily, preserved 
fruit for occasional, use. 

In Jelly Making 

1 (a) Put soft fruit into a saucepan, 
crush with a pestle and let heat slowly ; 
when hot throughout drain in a bag, then 
press out the remaining juice, or, add 
water just to cover the pulp, mix and 
cook about half an hour, then drain; 
three or more ''extractions" may be 
made in the same manner. 

(b) Cover hard fruit, as apples, 
quinces and plums, with water, and let 
cook until soft. The skin, seeds and 
stones of most varieties of fruit give 
color and flavor to the jelly and should 
be retained. Exception should be made 
of the seeds and cores of quinces, which 
should always be discarded. When the 
fruit is soft, drain and treat as above. 

2. Heat the juice quickly to the boil- 
ing point and can for future use ; or, let 
boil a certain length of time, add hot 
sugar and let boil to jelly. 

3. Skim and store in sterilized glasses. 
The cleaner the fruit (the freer it is 

of leaves, stems, etc.), the brighter and 
clearer will be the jelly. 

The quantity of sugar used to a given 
quantity of juice depends on the quan- 
tity of pectin in the juice. Usually, 
equal volumes of sugar, and currant or 
partially-ripe grapes, give good results. 
With raspberries, blackberries and firm 
fruits to which water must be added, 
even for the first extraction of juice, 
take three- fourths a cup of sugar to each 
cup of juice. For second and third ex- 
tractions of currants, blueberries, etc., al- 
low half a cup of sugar to each cup of 
juice. 

Too much sugar to pectin is the oc- 
casion of the crystals of sugar often seen 
in jelly, particularly in grape and blue- 



berry jellies. The remedy is less sugar 
or less boiling of juice before the addi- 
tion of the sugar. 

In Making Pickles 

Brine in which articles for pickles are 
to be stored should be strong enough to 
hold up an tgg. A generous pint of 
coarse salt to one gallon of water is 
the usual proportion. 

Brine in which vegetables for pickles 
are to be kept, simply over night, should 
be made in the proportion of one cup of 
salt to one gallon of water. 

A clean board or a plate holding a 
clean stone is often necessary above 
pickles, in a jar or cask, to keep them 
beneath the vinegar or brine which pre- 
serves them. 

Scalding pickles in vinegar in a sauce- 
pan lined with grape or cabbage leaves, 
the top of the pickles also being covered 
with the leaves, is thought to be an aid in 
retaining, and, perhaps, in intensifying, 
the natural color of the pickles. 

Articles to be pickled lose crispness 
on being scalded, but they will absorb 
vinegar more easily. 

Cloves are the strongest of the spices 
put into pickles and should be used less 
freely than mace or cinnamon. A table- 
spoonful of cinnamon bark, eight or ten 
cloves, and one inch of ginger root or 
half a teaspoonful of white mustard seed 
is a good proportion of spices for a 
quart of pickles. 

If white specks appear on the vinegar 
surrounding pickles stored in a stone- 
ware jar, skim the vinegar carefully, 
then drain it off, scald this same vinegar, 
or, better still, a fresh supply, and pour 
it over the pickles to cover them com- 
pletely. Cover the jar when cold. 

Pickles put up in a stoneware or un- 
glazed earthen jar will keep for months, 
if the vinegar and spices are of good 
quality ; but it is quite as well to store 
them, in small quantities, in fruit jars, 
which can be closed, as in canning, and 
opened as needed. 

A metal spoon or fork should at no 



52 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



time come in contact with pickles ; if 
such an article is used, dangerous com- 
pounds are liable to be imparted to the 
pickles. 

Canned Blueberries — No Sugar 

Pick over, wash and drain the blue- 
berries, and dispose them in sterilized 
jars, shaking down and adding as many 
berries as possible to each jar. Adjust 
the rubber rings, set the jars on the 
racks, the covers beside them, put on the 
cover of the receptacle and heat the 
water gradually to the boiling point. 
When the berries are hot throughout and 
have settled in the jars, use those in one 
jar to fill three or more, adjust the sterile 
covers, but do not fasten them, let cook 
fen minutes, then tighten the jars and 
remove to a board. 

Canned Blueberries 

Stew the berries in a sauce pan, add- 
ing about a cup of water to four quarts 
of berries — just enough to keep them 
from burning; add sugar, a cup and a 
half to two quarts of berries if desired; 
when boiling throughout, turn into 
sterilized jars, filling them to overflow; 
adjust rubber rings (dipped in boiling 
water) and sterilized covers, and 
tighten the covers at once. For use in 
pies — put up without sugar. 

Raspberries Canned without 
Cooking 

Mix together raspberries and sugar, 
pound for pound or bulk for bulk ; with 
a silver fork or wooden pestle, crush the 
fruit and sugar until every berry is 
broken. Have ready jars sterilized in 
boiling water, empty the jars and fill to 
overflow with the berries and sugar ; ad- 
just new rubbers and sterilized covers 
and fasten them securely. Store in a 
dark place. These are particularly good 
for shortcakes and have the exact flavor 
of fresh-picked fruit. 

Blueberry Jelly 

Put the blueberries in a porcelain- 



lined sauce pan on an asbestos mat or 
in a large double boiler. Let heat 
slowly to the boiling point, then cook a 
few minutes longer until they are boil- 
ing throughout, crush meanwhile with 
a wooden pestle — then turn into a large 
cloth laid over a porcelain colander. 
Draw the ends together, tie and let hang 
on a hook over a bowl to drain. Set the 
juice over a quick fire and heat to the 
boiling point ; let boil six or seven min- 
utes ; add one cup of sugar, made hot in 
the oven, for each cup of juice ; let boil 
one or two minutes, then pour into the 
glasses. The glasses must be ready in 
a pan of hot water, as the mixture will 
often jelly in the sauce pan, if there is 
delay in turning it into the glasses. 

Sunshine Strawberries 

Put into the preserving kettle, in lay- 
ers, as many pounds of sugar as hulled, 
washed and drained strawberries. When 
the juice is drawn out a little, set over 
the fire to cook twenty minutes after 
boiling commences. Turn the berries 
into agate pans or earthen plates, cover 
with panes of glass and set in the sun. 
Let stand two days, stirring two or three 
times each day. Store without reheating 
in jars or glasses. The time of cooking 
may be cut down to ten mintues, if the 
fruit be left in the sun a day or two 
longer. Seal the glasses with paper caps 

Sunshine cherries may be prepared in 
the same manner. 

Peach Preserves 

Boil two pounds of sugar and a pint 
of water five minutes after boiling be- 
gins, and skim carefully; add two 
pounds of peaches, cut in halves, and 
then pared; let cook until tender (no 
longer) ; skim out upon plates and drain 
ofif the juice into the syrup as fast as It 
appears. Boil the syrup about twenty 
minutes, skimming as needed. Return 
the peaches to the syrup ; let boil up 
once, then store in jars. Crack a few 
stones and cook tlie meats with the 
peaches. 



A Guide to Laundry Work 

(Second Paper, Continued) 
By Mary D. Chambers 



Bleacliing 

WIIEX clothes have turned yel- 
low or greyish, and this tint 
persists after washing, they 
should be bleached before bluing. A 
quarter-cup of borax dissolved in a cup 
of boiling water, and added to one gal- 
lon of cold water makes a mild bleaching 
fluid. Discolored clothes may be al- 
lowed to stand in this for from half an 
hour to three or four hours ; if this is 
not enough they should be dipped out 
of the liquid without much wringing, 
and spread out to dry, preferably on the 
grass. Where the discoloration is ob- 
stinate the clothes may need to be re- 
peatedly wet with the borax solution 
and kept out-of-doors for several days. 
A quicker method of bleaching, and one 
that is effective when sunlight and fresh 
air are not available, is to soak the 
clothes for half-an-hour in a mixture of 
one part of javelle water to two of hot, 
soft water. Javelle water is destructive 
to the fabric, so this should be used 
only in extreme cases. A little ammonia 
in the rinsing water will remove the 
limey odor, and the rinsing can hardly 
be overdone, for any trace of this strong 
detergent left in the clothes will rot 
linen or cotton fabrics. 

Bluing 

Bluing is needed only to counteract 
the yellow tint that results from much 
wear and much washing. Countr}- 
washed linen, with soft water and sun- 
bleaching, ought to require hardly any 
bluing, neither should the newer and less 
worn articles. 

A clean tub should be partly filled with 
cool, soft water, for the bluing. Hard 
water will cause discoloration. Only 
experience can guide the -worker as to 



the depth of tint required; this varies 
with the fabric and the weave, linen be- 
ing better absorbent than cotton and loose 
weaves taking up more color than close, 
fine weaves. In some of the commercial 
laundries a linen collar is dipped into the 
bluing water and, without wringing, held 
against the light as a test. If the color 
is a pure sky-blue, the water is right, if 
lighter, more bluing, and if darker, less, 
will be needed. A good working rule 
is to add sufficient bluing to yield a 
faint, but decided blue tint, when a little 
of the water is taken up in the hollow of 
the palm. The water should be kept 
well stirred, for many of the bluings are 
quickly precipitated, and it should be used 
quickly, for the coloring matter in some 
of the bluings will alter if allowed to 
stand in solution for many hours. 

The heavier articles, or those most dis- 
colored, should be dipped first, one piece 
at a time — clothes will be streaked if 
they lie in the bluing water. After wring- 
ing they should be at once shaken, and 
as quickly as possible hung to dry. The 
blue tint in the water weakens by use, and 
has to be strengthened after every six 
or eight pieces have been wrung out. 

Body linen usually requires the most 
bluing, table linen the least — unless this 
has been in constant use. 

Starching 

Starch is used to counteract the limp- 
ness that results from many washings, 
or to improve the texture of the fabric 
when ironed, or to stiffen, or preserve 
articles from stain, for the starch will 
form a thin coating round each fibre, 
which will absorb stain and be readily 
washed out. 

In some of the very fine French 
laundries all the clothing — including bed 
and table linen — is starched, so slightly 



53 



34 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



that it would never be suspected. Four 
tablespoon fuls of starch are blended in 
about twice as much cold water, the 
mixture is stirred while a quart of boil- 
ing water is poured on it, and then boiled 
directly over the fire for ten minutes. 
This is added to the bluing water, or to 
the last rinsing water, if the clothes 
are not blued — the amount given being 
the right proportion for eight quarts of 
bluing water. This small amount of 
starch w^ill not stiffen, but if used for 
the so-called unstarched pieces will pro- 
duce a smooth, beautiful finish under 
the iron. The texture of fine handker- 
chiefs will appear still finer, while 
muslin undergarments, sheets and pillow-- 
slips will have, after ironing, the cool, 
refreshing smoothness of linen — delight- 
ful for summer use. 

Recipes for starch for various classes 
of articles follow. 

1. Very Thin Starch. One-half table- 
spoonful of starch, one tablespoonful of 
cold w^ater, one quart of boiling water. 
Boil 15 minutes. 

This may be used for thin, worn 
table linen, to give it the crisp firmness 
of new goods, as well as to preserve it 
from stains. It is also used for prints, 
muslins, laces, and all articles which re- 
quire only a suspicion of stiffening. 
This starch may be mixed wath the blu- 
ing water. 

2. Thin Starch. One tablespoonful 
of starch, tw^o tablespoonfuls of w^ater, 
3^ teaspoonful of borax, jA teaspoonful 
of lard or paraffin wax, one quart of 
boiling water. Mix in order given ; boil 
15 minutes. 

This may be used for the ends of 
pillow-slips, the upper hems of sheets, 
the ends of draw^ers, the yokes, tucked 
fronts, wristbands or cuffs of night- 
gowns, for white skirts from five inches 
below the waistband to the hem, and for 
corset covers. Sometimes for the whole 
of combination garments, and for 
blouses, wrappers, dresses, etc., where 
only a little stiffening is desired. 

Where the whole of a garment is to 



be starched, this may be mixed with the 
l)luing water, otherwise the ])art to be 
stiifened is di])i)ed into the hot starch, 
after bluing, and the starch is worked 
into the cloth with tlie hands, then 
wrung and dried. 

3. Mediiitn Starch. Two to three 
tablespoonfuls of starch, one-quarter 
cup of water, one teaspoonful of borax, 
one teaspoonful of lard or wax, one 
quart of boiling w^ater. Mix in order 
given. Boil 20 minutes. A mere trace 
of bluing may be added to the starch 
after it is made ; or for w^hole garments 
it may be mixed with the bluing water. 

This may be used for tailored shirt- 
waists, duck or linen skirts, and all gar- 
ments w^hich are liked moderately stiff. 

4. Stiff Starch. One quarter cup of 
starch, one-half cup of w^ater, one-half 
tablespoonful of borax, one teaspoonful 
of lard or wax, one quart of boiling 
water. Mix in order given. Boil from 
20 to 30 minutes. 

This may be used for shirt bosoms, 
cuffs and collars, for the collars and 
cufi:"s of shirtwaists, for curtains and 
other draperies of coarse lace. 

5. fVn' Stiff Starch. One-half cup 
of starch, one-half cup of water, one- 
half to one tablespoonful of borax, one 
teaspoonful of lard or wax, one quart 
of boiling water. Mix as before. Boil 
one-half hour. 

This may be used for the final starch- 
ing of shirt-bosoms, collars and cuffs. 
A trace of bluing may be added, es- 
pecially if wdieat starch is used. This 
will be discussed more fully later. 

Notes 

The garments needing to be stiffest 
should be starched first, since the starch 
is likely to be thinned by the moisture 
from the clothes. 

Borax in starch will whiten it, give a 
more permanent stiffness, cause it to 
penetrate the fibres better, and will give 
greater smoothness in ironing. 

Wax, paraffin, or lard will prevent 
the starch from sticking to the iron, will 



A GUIDE TO T.AUXDRY WORK 



55 



give a fine gloss, and will aid in pre- 
serving the stiffness by preventing the 
absorption of moisture by the starch. 
Kerosene, turpentine, or even butter, arc 
sometimes substituted, but the first two 
are best avoided on account of the pos- 
sible clinging of the odor, while butter, 
being decomposed at a comparatively 
low temperature, may cause discolora- 
tion during the ironing. 

Drying 

In this paper only outdoor drying will 
be discussed. Clothes are best hung out 
in the evening in all but winter weather, 
for the more slowly they dry the better 
they will be bleached. This is an argu- 
ment for doing the washing in the after- 
noon instead of in the morning. If the 
clothes are not put out in the evening, 
they should at least be left out for a 
night. Grass bleaching, and the whiten- 
ing effect of frost are said to be due 
merely to the retarding of the drying in 
both cases. 

Things of a kind should be hung to- 
gether on the lines, the clothes-pins not 
inserted too vigorously, lines and pins 
perfectly clean. A long strip of linen is 
well to use to put between the pins and 
the clothes in fastening them to the line ; 
it saves wear, and possible stain from 
the pins. 

Everything should be hung wrong side 
out. 

Rules for Hanging 

Aprons, by the band or double part, 
so that the water will drain away from 
the gathers ; or by one of the long sides. 

Blouses, by the shoulders, so that the 
sleeves will hang in a natural position, 
to prevent tearing under the arm. 

Chemises, the upper part turned one- 
third over the line, to avoid strain from 
hanging at full length. If there are no 
gathers at top, they may be hung with 
the bottom hem turned from six inches 
to one foot over the line. 

Cellars and Cuffs. — Run a clean cotton 



string through the button-holes, and 
fasten the ends of this to the line. Keep 
collars and cuffs separate, pairs of the 
latter together, and all hung in the same 
direction. 

Combination Garmoits. — Hang same 
as chemises. 

Corset Covers. — Hang reversed, with 
the armholes down. 

Drawers. — Hang from the band, or 
with the band turned a few inches over 
the line. 

Dresses. — Hang from shoulders, if 
heavy from waist, in this case fastening 
the ends of the sleeves to the line to 
prevent tearing. 

Handkerchiefs. — Hang with the bor- 
der over the line, protect with a strip 
of linen or muslin from the pins, catch 
them only ver\- lightly. 

Napkins. — One-fourth over the line, 
the pins inserted a little way from the 
edge. 

Night gozuns. — From the shoulders, or 
with the yoke turned over the line. If 
without gathers, from such a point as 
will admit of the fastening of the 
sleeves, same as in dresses. 

Pillozv-slips. — A few inches of the in- 
closed part over the line; if hung from 
hems, will be apt to be pulled out of 
shape, or have starch rubbed out by 
pins. 

Sheets. — Double the sheets, wrong 
side out. Insert pins about five inches 
from the corners. 

Shirts. — Hang by yoke or shoulders. 

Skirts. — Hang from waist, or turned a 
few inches over line. 

Stockings. — Hang by heel, keep pairs 
together, turn all in the same direction. 

Tablecloths. — Same as sheets. 

Toivels. — One-third over the line. 

Union Suits. — Hang from shoulders, 
or with shoulders turned over the line. 

Waists. — Hang from shoulders. 



Note. — In the first of these articles on 
Laundry Work, in April issue, on page 705, 
second column, second line, the words "a cup" 
should be inserted after the word one-half. 

Ed. 




Home Ideas 

and 
iEcONOMIE^SS- 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



The Cheery Kitchen 

"The kitchen should he a frank and friendly 
part of the house." — Thoreau. 

THE quality of giving an atmos- 
phere of cheeriness to any home, 
no matter how poor, is something to be 
desired. The knack or instinct of know- 
ing where to place a potted plant, the 
hanging of a snowy sash-curtain of 
dotted Swiss, or the placing of a chair or 
other piece of furniture in order to give 
this effect or atmosphere to the home is 
a rare quahty. Happy indeed, is the 
woman who possesses it — she can make 
the proverbial hall bed-room, or the sim- 
plest cottage into a real home, and with- 
out it the most palatial home is lacking. 
Of all the rooms in the house the 
kitchen is that which needs this atmos- 
phere most. In some respects the pass- 
ing of the ''old-time" kitchen is to be re- 
gretted. It was usually the largest room 
in the house, and was the center of home 
life — serving not only for the prepara- 
tion of the food, but as living and dining 
room, laundry, workshop, etc. The 
writer has in mind a kitchen of this type 
in an old-fashioned farm home. It was 
an immense room, at the rear of the 
house. The windows, set in thick walls 
of stone, had deep ledges, which were 
filled with potted plants. The floor was 
made of unpolished oak scoured to 
whiteness. Several round mats, made of 
braided strips of cloth, were scattered 
about. At one end was the large range, 
work tables and cupboards, all of which 
were kept with the most scrupulous care. 
In the center of the room was a large 



oak table, used as a dining table, and as 
a work and reading table in the evenings. 
When the meal was cleared away, a 
bright-colored cloth was spread on the 
table and the reading lamp, papers, 
books and work were brought out. 
Here, the family gathered for happy 
evenings of study and work. Baskets 
of rosy apples and nuts were found on 
the table, in* the course of the evening, 
and perhaps a pitcher of cider and a big 
pan of pop corn. While there were the 
living and "spare" rooms in this 'farm 
house, yet every one was attracted to the 
cozy hominess of the old kitchen. 

The modern trend is to have a small 
kitchen or laboratory, eliminating every- 
thing but the necessary equipment for 
the preparation and ser\nng of meals, in 
order that the work may be reduced to a 
minimum. When this is perfected, it 
will be an ideal arrangement for the 
modern home, l)Ut just now, in the trans- 
itory stage, it is an era of cheerless 
kitchens. 

To begin with, the kitchen is usually 
located at the rear of the house and no 
especial thought given to its construc- 
tion. Too frequently it is poorly lighted 
with windows whose outlook is the bar- 
ren walls of neighboring Iiouses, or the 
sordid ugliness of back-door views. Its 
walls are often covered with a cheap, 
ugly paper, with no attention paid to 
harmony of coloring. Of course, in 
planning the kitchen, the chief aim 
should be practicability, convenience and 
sanitary conditions rather than esthetic 
conditions, yet it is possible to have a 
combination of these elements. It is pos- 



.56 



HOME IDEAS AND ECOXOAIIES 



0/ 



sible tu work over an old kitchen or 
build a new one so that there will be 
proper lighting and ventilating facilities ; 
to have the stove, sink and work table 
so arranged in relation to each other that 
the number of steps required to prepare 
and serve the meals will be reduced to a 
minimum ; to have a convenient sanitary 
storage place for food supplies and to 
have all of the numerous labor-saving 
devices that means will permit. Af- 
ter having taken care of the practical 
side, it is just as easy to treat the walls 
and woodwork with some pretty harmo- 
nious color as an ugly lifeless one. An 
oil-cloth or painted walls are best, be- 
cause these can be washed when needed. 

What woman would not delight in 
working in a kitchen whose walls were 
treated in some shade of light green, tan 
or gray, with white enameled woodwork, 
and the floor covered with linoleum to 
harmonize with the walls — ^with win- 
dows opening upon lovely vistas of gar- 
den, meadow or woodland, or a well- 
kept back yard ? 

Besides the necessary furniture and 
equipment, a high stool and an easy chair 
should be found in every kitchen. A\'ith 
this treatment and some fresh white cur- 
tains of Swiss or dimity and a potted 
plant or two in the windows, the kitchen 
will take on a new atmosphere of cheeri- 
ness and comfort, which will have a 
great effect in making the work seem less 
like drudgery. 

4^ ^ ^ 

Home-Made Cookies and Sand 
Tarts 

IN spite of the wonderful crackers and 
cookies turned out by the large bak- 
eries, a deft housewife can make cakes 
that excel even these. She can be her 
own mistress, as far as originality in 
shape, daintiness of flavor, and variety 
of finish are concerned. 

It is fascinating to fashion cookies 
and tarts. They are useful, too, being 
always ready to serve on festive or in- 
formal occasions. For children's par- 



ties, animal shapes, flowers, or funny 
little men, may be cut out of the dough. 
At Easter, they may be made egg-shaped 
— for the Fourth of July, like flags or 
soldiers — in fact, there is no end to the 
number of forms which can be pro- 
duced. Tin moulds, as low as ten cents 
apiece, for these various styles, are al- 
ways on sale at the large hardware 
stores. 

There are no restrictions to the bak- 
ing of cookies and sand tarts. The wise 
cook makes them in large quantities, 
taking two or three hours of a morning 
for the task, then puts them carefully 
into airtight tins, and she has enough in 
the larder for weeks to come. 

Cookies and tarts should be served 
at afternoon tea, or when a stray caller 
comes in. during the day. They are val- 
uable, too, as an accompaniment to the 
dessert course of a formal luncheon, 
when you give your guests California 
cherries, peaches, or a home-made mar- 
malade. 

It is necessary to have your oven even 
and rather quick, to make good cookies. 
A variety of spices can be employed, 
according to the taste, as one does not 
necessarily need to follow the recipes in 
this direction. 

Pecans, • walnuts, butternuts, shell- 
barks, and raisins, in varying sizes, 
should be near at hand, if you wish to 
have them original in appearance. For 
instance, you may place one English wal- 
nut on the top, or you may use several 
of them in a design. Raisins, either 
singly or in a border, give delightful va- 
riety. Maraschino cherries, small pieces 
of pineapple, or any candied fruit give 
color and finish to what would other- 
wise be a ven- plain affair. 

The raisins and currants should be 
floured before using, and oiled papers 
prepared before beginning the baking, 
on which to lay the tarts and cookies to 
cool. Remember, that they thicken as 
they bake, so it is advisable to make the 
dough thin, for the tarts especiallv. 
They also spread in the pans, so it is 



58 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



best to drop the batter from a small 
spoon into the pan, when the oatmeal 
cookies are made. 

Oatmeal Cookies 

One cup of butter, 1^ cups of sugar, 

2 eggs, 4 tablespoon fuls sweet milk, 2 
cups oatmeal (uncooked), 2 cups of 
flour, Yi teaspoonful baking powder, 1 
large cup of raisins (seeded, cut and 
floured), 1 teaspoonful cinnamon, a lit- 
tle nutmeg. 

Cream the butter and sugar together; 
add the eggs, well beaten, then the milk 
and oatmeal. Sift the baking powder in 
the flour, and add the raisins and nut- 
meg last. The batter should be very 
thick, and is dropped on well-greased 
tins in small circles and baked for fif- 
teen or twenty minutes. They may be 
ornamented with nuts or fruits, if de- 
sired. 

Plain Cookies 

One-half cup of butter, 1 cup of 
sugar, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon ful of milk or 
cream, 2^ cups of flour, 1>^ teaspoon- 
fuls baking powder, Yz teaspoonful 
lemon extract, Yi teaspoonful grated 
nutmeg. 

Cream the butter and sugar together; 
add the eggs, milk and flavoring. Sift 
flour and baking powder in last. Small 
bits of citron look well on top of these 
cookies. 

Nut Wafers 

Two cups of coarse-chopped nut 
meats, 1^ cups of sugar, Ya cup of 
flour, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, .3 
^ggs, Y'2 teaspoonful salt. 

Beat the eggs well, add the sugar, 
nuts, flour, salt and baking powder, the 
last three sifted together. Spread as 
thin as possible on greased tins. When 
nearly cold, cut into squares or oblongs. 

Sand Tarts 

One cup of butter, XYz cups of sugar, 

3 eggs, 1 tablespoon ful water, Y2 tea- 
spoonful baking powder and enough 



flour to make stiff enough to roll. 

Cream the butter and sugar together; 
add yolks, well beaten, water, and whites 
beaten to a froth. Add the baking pow- 
der and flour last. Roll the dough very 
thin, cut in circles, squares, or odd 
shapes, sprinkle sugar and cinnamon on 
top, and bake in a quick oven for about 
fifteen minutes. m. l. mcc. 

* vf: * 

A^irgil's Salad 

RECENTLY, when the members of a 
Latin class were entertained at the 
home of a professor, they were served 
with a salad of fruit and nuts accom- 
panied by a cheese dressing. With the 
salad they were, each, given a card con- 
taining the following quotation from 
Cowper's translation of Virgil: 

"With hasty steps his garden ground he 

sought ; 
There, delving with his hands, he first dis- 
placed 
Four plants of garUc, large and rooted fast ; 
The tender tops of parsley next he culls, 
Then the old rue-bush shudders as he pulls. 
The coriander last to these succeeds, 
That hangs on slightest threads her trembling 

seeds. 
Placed near his sprightly fire, he now de- 
mands 
The mortar at his sable servant's hands ; 
When, stripping all his garlic first, he tore 
Th' exterior coats and cast them on the floor, 
Then cast away with like contempt the skin, 
FHmsier concealment of the cloves within. 
These searched, and perfect found, he, one 

by one. 
Rinsed and disposed within the hollow stone. 
Salts added, and a lump of salted cheese ; 
With his injected herbs he covered these, 
And tucking with his left his tunic tight, 
x\nd seizing fast the pestle with his right. 
The garhc bruising first he soon expressed. 
And mixed the various juices of the rest. 
He grinds, and by degrees his herbs below. 
Lost in each other, their own powers forego-, 
x^nd, with the cheese in compound, to the 

sight 
Nor wholly green appears, nor wholly white. 
The work proceeds ; not roughly turns he 

now 
The pestle, but in circles smooth and slow. 
With cautious hand that grudges where it 

spills, 
Some drops of olive oil he next instills. 
Then vinegar with caution scarcely less, 
And gathering to a ball the medley mess. 
Last, with two fingers frugally applied, 
Sweeny the small remnant from the mortar's 
side, 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



59 



And thus, complete in figure and in kind, 
( )l)tains at length the salad he designed." 

It is needless to say that the class 
found a closer kinship with Virgil after 
that salad. The point of contact be- 
tween the classics and cooking is well 
worth emphasizing. Girls of the Latin 
age are apt to consider scholarship as a 
thing apart from the little everyday af- 
fairs of life, like making a salad, and it 
is a very practical source of inspiration 
for them to know that Virgil knew how 
to make a salad with a skill which the 
centuries have not surpassed, e. s. e. 



Simple, Scientific Jelly-Making 

THE novice in housekeeping usually 
shrinks from jelly-making as 
though it w^ere some occult process 
which must be undertaken with fear and 
trembling and certain ''abrica dabrica" 
wand waving to dissipate evil spirits and 
uncertain *'luck." On the contrary, 
jelly-making is as scientific as it can well 
be. 

Take currants, for instance, the first 
spring fruit in the North that offers 
for jellying. The process is so simple 
one could almost make currant jelly with 
the eyes shut — but not quite. Use from 
two to four quarts of currants, for one 
utensil, a greater quantity takes too long 
to bring to the right heat, and the color 
and flavor of jelly is somewhat impaired. 
The slogan is quick work, with as little 
cooking as possible. Use currants a lit- 
tle unripe — if half green all the better, 
and I may say here, that white currants 
and green ones make a jelly just about 
the same color that red ones do. Stem 
the currants, never use them with the 
stems on, as many do, to save time — it 
spoils the flavor. Cover the washed and 
stemmed fruit with non-alkaline water, 
and bring to a boil. Crush with a 
wooden potato masher, and pour into a 
jelly bag to drain, a three-cornered bag 
is best, as it lets the juice drain from a 
corner with the pressure of the bulk of 
the fruit on the small end. Press the 



juice out — the more it is squeezed the 
more of the pectin or jellying quality is 
gained. Measure the liquid, put over 
the fire and bring to a quick boil, but 
when once boiling, boil slow for twenty 
minutes only ; in the meantime measure 
an equal quantity of granulated sugar, 
and place in a hot oven, when the liquid 
has boiled the allotted twenty minutes, 
add the hot sugar, and let boil up, skim 
well, turn into jelly glasses and your 
jelly is done — and no worry or testing, 
and the finest flavored product you ever 
tasted — quite unlike the old style jelly 
which, with long cooking and sugar 
added, and cooked long, makes an acrid 
article at the best. There is nothing 
gained by using more water than just 
enough to cover the fresh fruit. The 
more water you put in, the more you 
must cook out — and quick jellying is 
the great desideratum. 

Many other fruits are jellied the same 
way — as gooseberries, red raspberries — 
using very little if any water. Use no 
water with grapes and use all fruits 
rather green. Quinces, apples and crab- 
apples, should be well covered with 
water and the peeling and all used, ex- 
cept the seeds, and these especially in 
quinces are very bad to use; the quince 
seed w^ill spoil the otherwise perfect 
product, so avoid it as you would any 
other evil. Peaches and other fruits 
lacking pectin, the jellying quantity, may 
be jellied by cooking the peaches — or 
peelings and pieces — in as little water as 
will cover them well, squeeze this juice 
oflf, and cook apples or crabapples in the 
peach juice, as per directions for other 
jelly — the apple will make peach- juice 
jelly, and the peach gives a most de- 
lectable flavor. Peaches cannot be jel- 
lied alone. Pineapple juice may be used 
the same way — cook apples in the ex- 
tracted juice of the pineapple — and fol- 
low the twenty minute rule as for cur- 
rants. 

Over-ripe fruit is apt to cause trouble 
in jellying — but good fruit, made up af- 
ter the above rule practically never fails ; 



60 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



— if not as solid as you want after it 
gets cold let it stand a few days in the 
sun and air, then cover, and put away 
in dry place. The cellar is not a good 
place for jelly. r. s. m. 



Miss Bessie's Gumbo Soup 

ONE soup bone from the brisket; 
boil 1 hour very slowly and then 
add:— 



2 onions 
2 turnips 
2 potatoes 
2 carrots 



1 can tomatoes 
1 cup rice 

Chop tine first four 
items 



Simmer 3 or 4 hours, season with pep- 
per, salt and red pepper; add 1 quart 
gumbo. Lettuce, parsley, celery and 
other vegetables may be added by chop- 
ping fine. 

Olive Oil Pickles 

100 small cucumbers ' i lbs. ground mus- 

1 qt. small onions tard 

1 pt, olive oil ' 4 lbs. white whole 

1 oz. celery seed mustard 

2 qts. vinegar j 1 tablespoon ful black 

I pepper 

Cut cucumbers in slices, also slice the 
onions. Salt well and put a heavy 
weight on top. Let stand over night or 
6 hours. Drain off liquid. Into vinegar 
put 1 teaspoonful of powdered alum. 
Use enough vinegar to cover cucumbers. 
Let stand 5 hours. Drain off. Mix 
mustard seed, pepper, celery with olive 
oil. Add gradually 2 quarts of vinegar, 
pour all over pickles, mix well, put in 
sealed jars and let stand 2 weeks. 

L. c. P. 



Keeping Eggs 

PLACE two inches of wood ashes in 
the bottom of a tin pail. In this, 
stand on the^ small end as many fresh 
eggs as you can, easily, without letting 
them touch. Sift over them two inches 
of ashes and adjust another layer, of 
eggs. When the pail is full, cover it 
tight, and place it in the cool cellar. The 
eggs will keep perfectly all winter. I 



have found no other device for preserv- 
'"fe ^'§gs so satisfactory. s. m. .s. 

* 2|C * 

Candied Cherries 

Candied Cherries. — This formula was 
given by one who has charge of^a soda 
fountain. The cherries cannot be told 
from the maraschino cherry. The Mt. 
Morenci, or any firm cherry is best 
adapted for this purpose ; stone carefully, 
with a new hairpin, the amount of cher- 
ries desired ; soak the cherries in vinegar 
twenty- four hours ; this makes them 
firm ; then drain. Take equal weights 
of granulated sugar and cherries; thor- 
oughly mix, then lay the mixture on 
platters and keep in a cool place for 
seven days ; stir well every day ; put in 
jars and seal. Keep in the cellar while 
curing. Fine for garnishing. e. c. m. 
* * * 

Broiled Tomatoes on Toast 

Have as many round slices of toast as 
slices of ripe tomato. Butter the bread 
generously, set a slice of tomato above, 
season with salt and pepper and grate 
over a little cheese, Parmesan, Edam or 
a soft American cheese. Above the 
cheese dispose a layer of cracker crumbs 
mixed with melted butter. 

American Housewives Capable of 
Mixing Their Own Flour 

THAT the American housewife is 
herself quite capable of doing all 
the flour mixing desirable, is the com- 
mentary of Assistant Secretary of Agri- 
culture, Vrooman, on the mooted mixed- 
flour question. He says further, that 
the American housewife could materi- 
ally reduce the cost of living, if she were 
to get the flour mixing habit. 

"There are some thirty substitutes 
that can be mixed with wheat flour in 
making bread," he said in a statement 
issued in Washington, last month. 
''Many of these are more nutritious than 
wheat flour; some of them are cheaper 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



61 



than wheat flour, and of these, two or 
three, at least, are commercially obtain- 
able almost anywhere. 

"Potatoes, corn flour, and rice (in 
certain sections) can be used with profit 
in mixture with wheat flour in making 
yeast bread. With wheat flour as dear 
as it is now, the careful housewife 
stands to effect quite a saving by using 
one of these products to eke out her 
wheat flour. Experiments have shown 
that the substitutes can be used success- 
fully in the proportion of one part to 
three parts of wheat flour. At least 
three-fourths of the mixture must be 
good wheat flour. 

"Potatoes have a certain advantage in 
this regard, since potato bread can be 
made without going to the trouble to get 
the commercial potato meal. Plain 
mashed potatoes, four parts of mashed 
potatoes to three parts of wheat flour, 
will serve the purpose quite well. If the 
dry potato meal or flake is used, the ratio 
should be one part of potato to three 
parts of flour. Boiled rice can be used 
in much the same way as mashed pota- 
toes, care being taken to allow for the 
water in the rice and to use about three 
times as much in bulk as would be used 
of the rice flour. 

"In making potato bread, the sponge 
should be used, and just enough water 
to serve to mix the yeast with the potato, 
since the sponge becomes very soft after 
partial fermentation. The remainder of 
the flour is worked in afterwards, care 
being taken to make an extra stiff dough, 
which should be raised till quite light. 
This bread is much moister than bread 
made of straight wheat flour. 

"Corn flour, which should cost about 
two-thirds the price of wheat flour, may 
be mixed with wheat flour direct, one 
part of corn flour to three parts of 
wheat flour. Use the mixture just as 
though it were wheat flour — and mix it 
yourself. 

"It should be remembered that the ad- 
dition of starchy materials, such as po- 
tatoes, rice or cornstarch (which is some- 



times used to adulterate wheat flour) 
in baking tends to make a loaf less rich 
in protein and hence less nutritious than 
the straight wheat flour. The addition 
of corn flour makes little, if any, change 
in the nutritive value of the bread, but 
makes it cheaper. 

"There are other flour substitutes, 
such as soybean-meal and pea flour, 
which serve to add greatly to the nutri- 
tive value of the loaf when mixed with 
wheat flour. These products, unfortu- 
nately, cannot be recommended in the 
present emergency, since they are not 
as yet common articles of commerce in 
this country. 

"In this connection, it should be said 
that a great saving could be eff'ected, if 
the housewife would emulate the pro- 
fessional baker and buy low grade wheat 
flours. There are flours on the market 
quite as good for home baking as the 
fancy patent flours, which cost in bulk 
from 25 to 40 per cent, less than the 
fancy grades. Such are the so-called 
'second-clear' and 'low-grade' flours, 
which are graded low^er than patents 
merely because they are darker, not be- 
cause they are any less nutritious or less 
palatable. In fact, the darker color may 
be evidence that the flour is more nutri- 
tious than white flour. 

"Boston brown bread may be men- 
tioned as a good and very popular me- 
dium for the profitable use of flour sub- 
stitutes. It is made of equal parts of 
corn meal, rye meal and graham flour, 
and is a very nutritious bread. 

"There are various ways of making 
over bread itself so as to effect a con- 
siderable saving. Thus, stale bread, 
crusts, crumbs, etc., can be worked into 
palatable products, such as bread pan- 
cakes, bread-crumb biscuit, and bread- 
crumb cookies. 

"The nub of the mixed flour question 
hangs on wdio does the mixing. If the 
housewife does the mixing, she gets the 
saving entailed ; if the baker or the 
wholesaler does it, he is very apt to get 
the saving as additional profit." 







<J^zje ries 

and 

Q/fhswers 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



1 quart water 
1 pint sugar 
1 teaspoonful gel^a- 
tine 



Query No. 2536. — "Recipes for rather sim- 
ple Sherbets or frozen desserts for summer 
use." - 

Raspberry Sherbet 

1 tablespoon ful cold 

water 
1 pint raspberry 

juice 

Boil the sugar and water twenty min- 
utes; add the gelatine softened in the 
cold water and strain into the can of the 
freezer; when cold add the raspberry 
juice and freeze as usual. For straw- 
berry sherbet, add strawberry juice and 
the juice of one or two lemons in place 
of the raspberry juice. 

Peach Sherbet 



1 quart water 
1 pint sugar 

1 teaspoonful gela- 
tine 

2 tablespoonfuls 
cold water 



1 pint peach pulp 
and juice 

2 oranges, juice 
only 

1 lemon, juice only 



Prepare as raspberry sherbet. To se- 
cure the peach pulp and juice, pare the 
peaches, discard the stones, and press 
the pulp through the ricer ; add the 
lemon juice at once to prevent change of 
color in the peaches. 

Three of a Kind Sherbet 

Mix the juice of three lemons, three 
oranges and the pulp of three bananas, 
pressed through a ricer, with three cups 
of sugar, then add five cups of rich milk 
and one cup of cream and freeze. 

Three of a Kind Sherbet, No. 2 

Boil one quart of water and one pint 
of sugar twenty minutes ; let cool, then 



add the juice of three oranges and three 
lemons, and three bananas, pressed 
through a ricer. When partly frozen 
add the whites of two eggs, beaten light 
and mixed with one- fourth a cup of 
granulated sugar, and finish freezing. 

Raspberry Sherbet 

Mix together one pint, each, of rasp- 
berry juice, sugar and water. Whip 
enough cream to make one pint ; add this 
to the other ingredients and freeze as 
usual. 

Sicihan Sherbet 



1 can peaches 

2 cups sugar 

1 cup water 

2 cups orange juice 

4 teaspoonful almond 
extract 



5 teaspoonful rose 

extract 
l teaspoonful lemon 

extract 

1 white of egg 

2 tablespoonfuls 
powdered sugar 

Drain the juice from the peaches and 
press the fruit through a sieve. Take 
one cup of the juice and one cup of the 
pulp; if there be more juice and pulp, 
take more of the rest of the ingredients, 
in the proper proportions. Boil the 
sugar and water, as in making fondant, 
to the thread degree ; let cool, then add 
the fruit juice and extracts and begin to 
freeze. When nearly frozen add the 
white, beaten firm and mixed with the 
sugar, and finish freezing. 

Canned Apricot Sherbet 

1 can apricots I 1 quart water 

1 pint sugar I 

Remove the skins from the apricots; 
if they have not been pared, pass through 



02 



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Those who have tried it cannot help telling the good results to their friends. 

By far the greater part of its army of users were first won to its cause by the 

enthusiasm of a neighbor. 

If you want an introduction to Crisco, stop some morning at the kitchen window of 

a neighbor who uses it, and see if she does not agree with the following statements. 



Crisco 

^. For Frying -For Shortening 
^^ For Cake Making 



Foods cooked with Crisco are more easily digested than those cooked with lard. 
They are also' more appetizing both in appearance and in taste. 

Crisco is but half as expensive as butter and is cheaper than the better grades of lard. 

When properly used, Crisco does not smoke in frying. It thus removes one of the most 

disagreeable features of cooking and helps keep the kitchen clean and sweet. 

Crisco can be left in the ordinary kitchen temperature without 

getting too hard or too soft. It is thus convenient to keep and 

to handle. 

Crisco is pure. Clean materials and a factory which is 
one of the wonder places of the manufacturing world are 
the guarantee of a food product as nearly perfect as human 
intelligence can make it. 

If you want to know more about Crisco and the conditions under 
which it is prepared, send for the "Calendar of Dinners". This cloth- 
bound, gold-stamped book contains, besides the story of Crisco, a 
different dinner menu for every day of the year and 615 recipes tested 
by the well-known cooking authority. Marion Harris Neil. Address 
your request to Dept. A-6, The Procter (2l Gamble Co., Cincinnati, O.. 
enclosing five 2-cent stamps. A paper-bound edition, without the 
"Calendar of Dinners" but with 250 recipes will be sent free on request. 




-/ 



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G3 



64 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



a sieve; add the juice from the can, the 
sugar and water, stir until the sugar is 
dissolved, then freeze. 

Caramel Ice Cream 

Stir three-fourths of a cup of sugar 
over a quick fire until changed to a 
liquid caramel. Add half a cup of boil- 
ing water; proceed carefully to avoid 
burning the hand with steam. Stir, until 
the caramel becomes liquid again. Let 
boil until reduced somewhat ; fHen pour 
into a quart of milk and a cup of 
double cream. Heat to 100° F. Add a 
scant half -cup of sugar and a junket 
tablet, crushed and dissolved in three 
tablespoonfuls of water. Stir until well 
mixed; let stand in a warm place until 
the mixture jellies. When cold, freeze 
as any ice cream. 

For Frozen Strawberries and Cream 
see Seasonable Recipes. 



Query No. 2537.— "Outlines of inexpensive 
lunches, or light refreshments for friends, 
who come informally to spend the evening at 
cards or otherwise." 

Light Refreshments for Evening 

Nut Bread-and-Marmalade Sandwiches 
Hot Cocoa, with Whipped Cream 

or Marshmallows 

Frozen Strawberries and Cream 

Little Cakes 

Fruit Punch 

Crackers, Cream Cheese, 

Bar le due Currants 

Rye Bread, Cream Cheese 

New Currant Jelly, or 

Sunshine Strawberries 

Fresh Strawberries, Cream 

Baking Powder Biscuit, or 

Parker House Rolls 

(both reheated) 

Bread and Peanut-Butter-Sandwiches 

Stringless Bean Salad 

(French Dressing with Onion Juice and 

Parsley) 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Preserved Ginger (from Jar) 

Lettuce, Salmon-and-Green Pea Salad 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Anchovy-and-Bread Sandwiches 

Olives 

Lettuce and Asparagus, 

Vinaigrette Sauce 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Grape-and-Pineapple Juice Punch 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Little White Cakes 

Lettuce, Cubes of Cream Cheese and 

Sliced Pimientos, Mayonnaise Dressing 



Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Prune-and-Pecan Nut Salad 

Whipped Cream Dressing 

Wafers 

Lettuce, Pineapple-and-Pimiento Salad 

Mayonnaise with Whipped Cream 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Crackers, Fancy Cheese 

Preserved Ginger 

Sardines wnth Onion Juice 

Quartered Lemons 

Saltines Lemonade 

Canned Apricot Puree, Frappe 

Wafers 



Query No. 2538. — "Recipe for macaroons." 

Macaroons 

\Ve have always found the recipe on 
the cans of almond paste, of which mac- 
aroons are made, gave very good mac- 
aroons. 



Query No. 2539. — "Recipes using grape- 
fruit." 

Grapefruit Recipes 

Marmalade is one of the best ways of 
using grapefruits. The recipe for Am- 
ber marmalade, given repeatedly in these 
pages, is very satisfactory. Grapefruit 
may be used alone in marmalade or may 
be combined with orange ai'd pineapple, 
or with either alone. Grapefruit jelly 
may be made by cooking the shredded 
fruit in water until it is very tender; to 
the drained liquid sugar is added, a cup 
of sugar for a cup of juice, and the 
wdiole boiled until it jellies. 

Grapefruit Marmalade 

Cut six grapefruit and four lemons in 
quarters, then slice the quarters through 
pulp and rind as thin as possible, dis- 
carding all seeds. Weigh the prepared 
fruit, and to each pound (pint) add 
three pints of cold water. Set aside 
twenty-four hours. Let boil gently until 
the rind is perfectly tender, then set 
aside until next day. It will take from 
three to six hours to cook the rind. 
Weigh the material and for each pound 
(pint) take one pound (pint) of sugar. 
Let the grapefruit heat to the boiling 
point, heating the sugar meanwhile on 
pans in the oven ; add the hot sugar and 
boil until the liquid is thick and jelly- 
like. Store as jelly. 



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liberators 



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65 



66 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Salpicon of Grapefruit and . 
Pineapple 

Cut a grapefruit in halves, crosswise, 
and with a sharp knife cut around the 
pulp in each section and lift it out ; add 
all the juice from the fruit ; add an equal 
quantity of fresh or canned pineapple 
in small pieces. If fresh pineapple be 
used, remove the outside and "eyes" and 
with a silver fork, pick small pieces of 
fruit from the core. Mix the prepared 
pineapple and grapefruit with the juice 
of both fruits and dispose in glass cups. 
Set a teaspoon ful of sifted confection- 
er's sugar above the fruit in each cup, or 
omit the sugar. Serve as a first course 
at luncheon or dinner. Oranges, peaches 
(canned or fresh) or white grapes (in 
season) may be substituted for' the pine- 
apple or used with it. 

Grapefruit Salad 

Serve whole or half sections of grape- 
fruit, removed in perfect shape, on let- 
tuce leaves, with French dressing in 
which lemon juice is the acid. Some- 
times pineapple, white grapes, canned 
pears or peaches and pimientos are used 
with the grapefruit. Mayonnaise is 
sometimes used, but French dressing is 
preferable. On no account use a boiled 
dressing or whipped cream with grape- 
fruit. 



Query No. 2540 — "Describe the best way 
of preparing grapefruit to serve in the 
peel." 

Preparation of Grapefruit 

With a large, sharp knife, cut a grape- 
fruit in halves, crosswise. \Mth a small 
thin, sharp knife, cut around the pulp 
in each little section of the fruit so that 
the whole of each triangular section of 
pulp may be lifted out. Also cut the 
membrane, separating the sections and 
the core from the skin and remove all 
the membrane and the pithy center in 
one piece. Chill before serving if de- 
sired. There is a difference of opinion 
as to the advisability of chilling grape- 
fruit, or of adding sugar. 



Query No. 2541. — "Kindly reprint the 
recipe for the strawberry shortcake given 
in the June-July number of this magazine 
in 1898. It is the best recipe for straw- 
berry shortcake that you have published, 
but my copy of the magazine has disap- 
peared." 

Best Strawberry Shortcake 

The recipe referred to is given on an- 
other page of this issue, among the sea- 
sonable Recipes. 



Query Xo. 2542. — "Why are the meringues 
on my puddings sometimes tough?" 

Tough Meringue on Pudding 

A tough meringue on pudding or pie 
is usually occasioned by too hot an oven. 
Let the article cool somewhat before the 
meringue is spread upon it. The me- 
ringue should remain in the oven at least 
eight minutes before it begins to color. 
To make the meringue, beat the whites 
of eggs until dry, then gradually beat in 
one rounding tablespoonful of granu- 
lated sugar for each white of egg taken. 
After the meringue is spread, dredge it 
lightly with granulated sugar. 



Query Xo. 2543. — "What is the reason 
that a filling for a cream pie, made with 
cornstarch, eggs, etc., that seems to be of 
the proper consistency will often become 
thin on cooling?" 

Thin Cream Pie Filhng 

We have occasionally seen the condi- 
tion referred to above when cornstarch 
was used and also when flour was used, 
and have not been able to account for it 
— would be glad to have pur readers 
throw light upon this matter. We 
should say that the mixture often be- 
came thin — after being thick — before the 
addition of the sugar and eggs. Of 
course, sugar will thin any mixture, anrl 
yolks of eggs (not very fresh) will not 
thicken as fresh eggs. 

Query Xo. 2544. — "Recipe for fritter bat- 
ter without baking powder, and for fritters 
with baking powder, both fruit and corn 
fritters." 

Fritter Batter 



2 egg-yolks 

i cup milk 

i cup flour 

^ teaspoonful salt 



2 teaspoonfuls olive 

oil 
2 egg-whites 



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tAi^aJM!' 



Only the best and purest malt 
vinegar-made in our own brewer- 
ies, on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire,' 
England -is used. 



It takes over two years of careful preparation 
and ageing to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 

A good wine cannot be made in a day — neither 
was Holbrook's Sauce 



AV. 



*'It is better to use no 
sauce at all than a sauce 
that is not Holbrook's." 



HOLBROOKS 

^— SAUCE 



TKeM^CtERNAN Samiarg Kiichen Cabinet 



IT IS STEEL 

and yet it costs no more than the 
ordinary wooden kitchen cabinet. 
That's the first big reason why 
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speckless baked enamel finish will 
delight any housewife — in either 
snow white or French gray. No 
cracks or crevices for dirt to lodge 
in. Rats or mice cannot gnaw 
into it. Will last a lifetime. 

New Beautiful Art Folder 
Sent FREE 

A lesson in Kitchen Conveniences and 
the TRUTH about Kitchen Cabinets — 
the part that's never before been told. 
We will shov^ you how to examine and 
try in your own kitchen the one really 
good Kitchen Cabinet before you pay 
anybody a cent. Write today. 

McClernan Metal Products Co. 

3515 S. Ashland Avenue, Chicago 



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Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
67 



68 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Sift the flour and salt together; heat 
the yolks, add the milk and gradually 
stir into the flour; beat in the oil and 
set aside for an hour or longer. When 
ready to use, beat the whites dry and 
then beat them into the mixture. Arti- 
cles to be fried, as fillets of fish or meat, 
slices of egg plant, halves of banana or 
cooked fruit are dipped in this batter, 
and then fried in deep fat or sauted. 

Apple Fritters 



I teaspoonfiil salt 

1 egg ^ 

i cup milk 

2 sour apples 



1.^ cups flour 

1 rounding tea- 
spoonful leaking 
powder 

Sift together the dry ingredients; beat 
the egg, add the milk and stir into the 
dry ingredients. Pare and core the ap- 
ples, cut them into small pieces and stir 
into the batter. Drop by spoonfuls into 
deep fat and fry to a delicate brown. 
Drain on soft paper. 

Green Corn Fritters 

1 cup corn pulp 1 cup pastry flour 

2 egg yolks, beaten li level teaspoon- 
light fuls baking pow- 

h teaspoonful salt der 

4 teaspoonful black 2 egg-whites, 
pepper beaten dry 

Score the kernels, with a sharp knife, 

lengthwise of the cob, then with back 

of knife press out the pulp. Add the 

other ingredients in the order given. 

Take up the mixture by tablespoonfuls 

and with a teaspoon scrape it into the 

hot fat ; let cook until a rich brown on 

both sides, turning often. Drain on soft 

paper. The recipe makes eight large 

fritters. 



Query No. 2545. — "Recipe for Chestnut 
Stuffing." 

Chestnut Stuffing 

Cook about a pint of shelled and 
blanched chestnuts until tender in boil- 
ing water, drain and pass through a ricer 
or sieve; add a cup of soft bread 
crumbs, one-third a cup of melted but- 
ter, half a teaspoonful or more of salt, 
a dash of i)aprika or black pepper, and 
if desired, half a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered thyme. A cup of pork sausage or 



chopped veal, with one- fourth a cup, 
additional, of butter, are sometimes 
used. 

Query No. 2546. — "Three of the best 
recipes for serxing Asparagus." 

Asparagus, Maltese Sauce 

Cook the asparagus, tied in a bunch, in 
boiling salted water. Lift out to slices 
of toast (the toast may be omitted), 
pour over the hot sauce and serve at 
once. For the sauce, blood oranges are 
usually selected. Put one- fourth a tea- 
spoonful, eacli, of salt and paprika, the 
grated rind of half an orange, a table- 
spoonful of water and two tablespoon- 
fuls of lemon juice over the fire to re- 
duce one half ; add half a cup of butter, 
beaten to a cream, and, one after an- 
other, the yolks of from two to four 
eggs ; beat each yolk into the butter thor- 
oughly before adding another. Set the 
dish over hot water and stir constantly 
while the mixture thickens, then add the 
juice of half a blood orange and stir 
and cook a moment longer. With two 
yolks the sauce should be as thick as 
cream ; with four yolks as thick as may- 
onnaise. 

Asparagus, Hollandaise Sauce 

Cook the asparagus in the usual man- 
ner. Serve hot with Hollandaise sauce 
poured over the tips or apart in a bowl. 
Mousseline and Mock Hollandaise Sauce 
are also good with asparagus. 

Hollandaise Sauce 



2 cup of butter 
2 to 4 yolks eggs 
4 teaspoonful salt 
i teaspoonful pepper 



2 cup boiling water 
2 tablespoonfuls 
lemon juice 



Prepare as mousseline sauce. 
Mousseline Sauce, No. 1 



2 tablespoonfuls 

lemon juice 
i teaspoonful salt 
i teaspoonful pepper 



i cup butter 
4 yolks eggs 
2 cup cream 
4 cup butter 

Cream the butler, beat in the yolks, 
one at a time, add the cream, and cook 
and stir over hot water until the mixture 
thickens; remove from the fire, add the 



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Sugar Wafers 



make an irresistible appeal to 
the palate. These bewitching 
dessert confections are made for 
the joyful occasion, the social 
gathering, the feast. 



ANOLA — Delicious wafers of 
chocolate-flavored goodness; crisp 
baking outside, smooth cream 
filling inside, chocolate-flavored 
throughout. The taste is unique, 
the form is inviting, and the occa- 
sions upon which they can be 
appropriately served are without 
number. 



ADORA — Another dessert con- 
fection invariably popular w^ith 
the hostess. These little w^afers 
are pleasing to look upon, entran- 
cing to the taste, whether served 
with desserts or eaten as a con- 
fection. 




FESTINO — Their resemblance 
to an actual almond is most attrac- 
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the delicate shells an enticing 
rweetened, almond-flavored filling. 



NATIONAL BISCUIT 
COMPANY 



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- do not accegt substitutes 
69 



'0 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



last measure oi butler, in little bits, tben 
the lemon juice and seasonings. This 
makes a thick sauce ; far one less thick 
omit two yolks of eggs. 

Mousseline Sauce, No. 2 

To a cup of Hollandaise sauce, fold 
in, at the last moment before serving, 
half a cup of sweet cream, beaten solid. 

Mock Hollandaise Sauce 

Make a white sauce of two tablespoon- 
fuls, each, of butter and flour, salt and 
pepper, and water or white stock 
(chicken, veal, or fish). After simmer- 
ing six or eight minutes, pour gradually 
upon the beaten yolks of two eggs, di- 
luted with a tablespoonful of cream. 
Mix thoroughly, and then, drop by drop, 
add vinegar (tarragon preferred) and 
lemon juice, to give the degree of acidity 
required. 

Asparagus au Gratin 

Put little bundles of asparagus on 
slices of toast in an au gratin dish and 
pour cream or Bechamel sauce over the 
points, then dredge quite thick with 
grated Parmesan cheese ; cover the ends 
of the stalks with paper and set the dish 
in the oven to melt the cheese. 

Cold Asparagus Mousse 

1 large bunch aspar- I i teaspoonful salt 
agus 4 teaspoonful pa- 

1 cup chicken broth prika 

or water 1 tablespoonful gran- 

2 slices onion ulated gelatine 

2 cloves 4 cup cold water 

3 slices carrot 1 cup double cream 
i teaspoonful sweet Lettuce and French 

herbs dressing 

From a large bunch of asparagus cut 
off enough tips to line eight small molds. 
The tips may be set close together or a 
little distance apart and should be cut 
to the exact height of the molds. Tie 
these together and cook in the usual 
manner until just tender. Set these 
aside to become cold. To the water in 
which the tips were cooked add the rest 
of the asparagus, the broth, onion, 
cloves, carrot and herbs, cover and let 
simmer until the asparagus is tender and 



the liquid somewhat cxaporated. Re- 
uKjve the onion, cloves, herbs, and Cvir- 
rot and press the asparagus through a 
sieve. There should be one cup of as- 
paragus pulp and liquid ; if there is 
more, let it evaporate by slow cooking. 
Soften the gelatine in the cold water, 
and set it in the dish into boiling water 
to dissolve. Add the dissolved gelatine 
and the salt and pepper to the puree; 
stir occasionally while cooling; when it 
begins to thicken fold in the cream, and 
when stiff enough to hold its shape use 
to fill the lined molds. When cold, serve 
unmolded, on crisp lettuce hearts with 
French dressing. 



_ Query No. 2547. — "Recipe for an inexpen- 
sive clam chowder to serve fifty." 

Clam Chowder 

(Frances L. Smith) 



1 cup flour 

5 tablespoonfuls salt 
I4 cups butter 

6 quarts scalded milk 
1 teaspoonful pepper 



quarts clams 
5 quarts diced pota- 
toes 
5 slices fat salt pork 
3 cups chopped onion 
3h quarts water 

Wash and pick over clams, drain. 
Chop fine hard part of clams. Cut pota- 
toes in three- fourth inch cubes. Cut 
pork in half-inch cubes and cook slowly 
with the onion ten minutes. Cook pota- 
toes, onion, pork, chopped clams, salt, 
pepper, and water fifteen minutes; add 
soft part of clams, and cook three min- 
utes. Make a white sauce of the milk, 
butter and flour. Combine mixtures. If 
clam liquor is used, it should be heated, 
strained, and added just before serving. 



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Us© a Reliable Disinfectant all over the house^ 
A cupful in a pail of water for scrubbing floors 

and woodwork. 
Pour a little in the sink, tubs, basins and toilets. 
Wash refrigerators and store-rooms. 
Has no disagreeable odor. 
Safe, Strong and Economical. 

Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cent* 

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Sample and Booklet, " The Sanitary Home," FREE 
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jfieCJorlds Bes^ 
7ce Cream'^eezer 

* 

Ice Cream versus Pudding and Pie 

BY ACTUAL TEST 

Two apple pies made ready to put into the oven in thirty-five minutes (to 

say nothing of the baking.) Tw^o quarts of delicious ice cream mixed, 

frozen and packed ready to 

serve in twenty-one minutes and 

no hot fire to fuss over. That's 

why we say: "Ice cream made 

the right way with a White 

Mountain Freezer is easier to 

make than Pudding or Pie." 



We have proved it: — so can you. 
If you don't know the right way 
ask your dealer for our folder or 
write to us direct. 

THE WHITE MOUNTAIN FREEZER GO. 

Nashua, New Hampshire 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
71 



The Silver Lining 



Maria Mak-ka Da Cake 

Pietro he geet married 
To a girl-a much-a dark ; 
She leeve down by riveria 
Where they mak the leetle park : 
So, today they set up house-keep : — 
(I suppose she not know bake) 
But Pietro say at supper : 
"Maria she, jus mak-ka cake." 

Then I laugh inside a leetle, 
That that girlie she cood cooke ; 
And I laugh some more at Pietro— 
She must make eet from a book — 
But when she — with haar all curly. 
And them eyes what 'much a take,' 
(I feel 'shame to laugh a leetle) 
She breeng een tliat niuch-a cake. 

Santas, seeners I it was much-a, 
With eet's top of chocolat ; 
An' she make between the pieces 
Much-a more-a chocolat : 




Oh, Pietro he much "inusha" 
With hees Maria for that bake, 
And me too, for I no ever 
Eat so good-a, much-a cake. 

Ralph Ravxor. 

Prof. Copeland of Harvard, as the 
story goes, reproved his students for 
coming late to class. "This is a class in 
English composition," he remarked with 
sarcasm, "not an afternoon tea." At the 
next meeting one girl was twenty min- 
utes late. Prof. Copeland waited until 
she had taken her seat. Then he re- 
marked bitingly, "How will you have 
your tea, Miss Brown?" "Without the 
lemon, please," Miss Brown answered 
gently. 

The English professor, traveling 
through the hills, noted various quaint 
expressions. For instance, after a long 
ride the professor sought provisions at a 
mountain hut. "What d' yo'-all want?" 
called out a woman. "Madam," said the 
professor, "can we get corn bread here? 
We'd like to buy some of you." "Corn 
bread, did yo' say?" Then she chuckled 
to herself, and her manner grew amiable. 
"Why, if corn bread's all yo' want, come 
right in, for that's just what I hain't got 
nothing else on hand but." — Boston Her- 
ald. 

■ He was a Scot, with the usual thrifty 
characteristics of his race. WTshing to 
know his fate, he telegraphed a proposal 
of marriage to the lady of his choice. 
After waiting all day at the telegraph 
office he received an affirmative answer 
late at night. 

"Well, if I were you," said the opera- 
tor who delivered the message, "I'd 
think twice before Pd marry a girl who 
kept me waiting so long for an answer." 

"Na, na," replied the Scot. "The lass 
for me is the lass wha waits for the 
night rates." 



72 



ADVERTTSKMKNTS 




i 



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i i ■ "/ 











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¥op29yeapsAmepicQ s 

besufy ^ndbpsin shave 
found deli6ht in - 





^imes change 4 styles chaiij^e. 
but the fundamentally ^od thint^s 
of this nonld change neitbep in them 
selves nop in popular esteem. -.- 
'^op29jyeaps Coca Cola has held and 
incp eased its populapity 7hat's be- 
cause it- is fundamentally delicious, 
pcfpesliing and wholasome^r . 







mCOCACOlA CO. ^/IH.}M, (^. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
73 



ADVKR'nSEMENTS 



The First 

Taste Tells 

the Story 



Ices, creams and other frozen 
desserts are given an inex- 
pressibly exquisite flavor 
by the smooth, rich de- 
liciousness of 



ViS N llM 



Almond 
LemoA 
Orange 
FresK 
Fruit- 
Extracts 
etc. 



The tempting fragrance 
and mellow richness of 
its real Mexican Vanilla 
make a difference you 
would hardly believe 
possible — one worth 
many times over the 
slight cost of the two or 
three spoonfuls you use. 

An Easy 
Frozen Pudding 

Scald 1 cup of cream and add 2 cups of .supar and 1-2 
teaspoon of salt. Add it to 1 quart of boiling milk. 
Stir till smooth and stir at intervals for 20 minutes. 
Add 4 beaten eggs and 1 pint stiff whipped 
cream. Flavor with 2 teaspoons of Burnett's 
vanilla. When partly frozen add chopped can- 
died fruits. 

Frozen desserts are both refreshing and whole- 
some — and their deliciousness should not be en- 
dangered by the use of inferior extracts, whose 
imperfections are magnified by freezing. If you 
doubt this, experiment with a cheaper and poorer 
extract and with Burnett's. The family will 
speak their minds plainly. 

Write for our new booklet ofllS dainty desserts 
Sent free i/ you mention your grocer's name. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

Dcpt. K. 36 India St., Boston, Mass. 



The Bride's Maid 

(Continued from page 29/ 

o'clock to be planned — for she knew this 
meant anxiety and the purchasing of 
foods which could be prepared quickly, 
regardless of their cost or value. She 
knew that a dinner planned in the morn- 
ing could be prepared largely ahead of 
time, leaving time for the maid to rest 
in the afternoon and be fresh for the 
evening. 

What would you say if a maid would 
come to you and ask : "How long shall I 
bake that brown bread, and how hot 
shall I have the oven?" Do you know 
or have you simply given her the recipe 
which someone else gave you? If you 
have never tried it yourself, can you 
honestly blame a maid if she fails with 
the recipe, when you are unable to give 
her proper instructions? 

Do you know what quantities to cook 
for meals and what to do with leftovers? 
You can hardly expect a maid to suit 
you when you don't know what you 
want and can't intelligently plan your^ 
own meals. Beside that, how can you 
expect her to have the respect for you 
that she should have, if you show her 
every day how unsystematic and ineffi- 
cient you are? 

"Oh, dear," I heard a woman say to 
her maid the other day, '"I forgot to . 
order something for supper Sunday 
night and I have to go out now. You 
just call them up and order something 
nice that will be easy." 

That woman was quite indignant 
when she found some bakery cookies, 
half a dozen oranges, and a box of Sara- 
toga chips, when she went out to get the 
Sunday evening supper ! Yet what 
could she expect? The maid had done 
her best, but food values and proper 
combinations for meals were as so much 
Greek to her. She had followed instruc- 
tions and ordered "something nice that 
will be easy." The things in themselves 
were nice and they were certainly easy 
to prepare, but they were not exactly an 
ideal Sunday evening supper. 

Suppose, now, that you have passed 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
74 



\ 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



1 




Duplicates 



Red Wing Grape Juice is just as 
fresh — ^just as pure — ^just as sweet 
and rich in grapey flavor as the 
fresh fruit when first picked— only 
one Hght crush from select 
Concords is used — it reaches you 
just as it left the grape. 

Unchanged 

Unfermented 

Unadulterated 

REPwiNO 

GRAPE JUICE 

With the Better Flavor 



When you buy Grape Juice ask for Red Wing — 
insist on the brand that insures the utmost in purity, 
quality and grapey flavor. If your dealer is unable 
to supply you, send us his name and address and 
S3.00 and we will ship you a trial case of a dozen 
pints by prepaid express to any point east of the 
Rockies, or for 10c we will mail you a sample four 
ounce bottle. 

Write for booklet containing recipes for many grape 
delicacies that delight both guests and home folks. 
It's free. 

Manufactured by 

PURITAN FOOD PRODUCTS CO., he 

Fredonia, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
75 



/\mi<:rtcan cookery 




Summer 
Ices 



Cooling creams 
and ices "stand 
better" and are 
smoother if made 
with 



SPARKLING 

GELATINE 

{It's Granulated) 

It is the secret of home- 
made frozen dainties — 
this Grape Juice Sherbet 
will prove it. 

Grape Juice Sherbet 

Soak 3^ envelope Knox Sparkling 
Gelatine in % cup cold water 5 
minutes. Make a syrup by boil- 
ing I cup sugar and 1^2 cups boil- 
ing water ten min"utes, and add 
soaked gelatine. Cool slightly 
and add I pint grape juice, 4 
tablespoonfuls lemon juice, '3 
cup orange juice ; then freeze. 
Serve in glasses and garnish with 
candied violets or fruit, if desired. 

Send for FREE 
Recipe Booli 

It contains many economical 
Dessert, Jelly, Salad, Pudding 
and Candy Recipes. It is free 
for your grocer's name. Pint 
sample (enough to make this 
grape sherbet) for 2 -cent stamp 
and grocer's name. 

CHAS. B. KNOX CO. 



307 Knox 
Avenue 



KNOX [^ Johnstown, 

GElatiI 





your year of probation and have found 
for yourself how to do things the easiest 
and the best way. How are you going 
to teach someone else what you have 
learned? Here you have your first 
maid, let us say, and she may be as good 
a maid as you can ever find — provided 
you train her the right way. 

First, have a well-planned system for 
the work. If you find later that this par- 
ticular maid can do one thing in shorter 
time, another in longer time than your 
system called for, change the system to 
suit. The system will help you so long 
as you adapt it to your needs and do 
not try to adapt the needs to it. Say, 
for instance, that an emergency arises, 
that you are ill or that unexpected com- 
pany arrives on the day usually set aside 
for the cleaning of the silver and the 
arranging of the pantry. Any such 
emergency will mean extra work for the 
maid and the sensible thing to do is to 
put off the work for the day until a bet- 
ter time, instead of wearing the maid out 
doing it in addition to the emergency 
work. 

One of the most important parts of a 
system for the work is the early planning 
of the meals for the day. Make it a 
rule to go into the kitchen the first thing 
after breakfast, look over the ice box 
and the pantry, see what things are best 
thrown out and what things best saved 
and plan your meals accordingly. You 
will be surprised, I know, at the rapid 
way in which small amounts of food will 
accumulate. Some of them, you will 
have found, during your probation pe- 
riod, to be an economy to save, some a 
better economy to throw away. You can 
no more leave this to the discretion of 
the average maid than you could give 
her the selection of your clothes. It is 
so much a matter of personal taste and 
judgment. 

A woman of my acquaintance said 
petulantly, one day, "I do believe I have 
the most stupid maid in captivity. Here 
I found week-old pancakes in the ice 
chest this morning, and that lovely lamb- 
bone from the roast, thrown away. 



Buy advertised goods — do not accept substitutes 
76 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Learn to know 

the flavor of purity 

Don't expect Carnation Milk to taste just like raw 
milk. The sweetness and flavor of Carnation Milk, 
which you will regard as delicious after you have tried 
it several times, are due to a more concentrated flavor 
of the butterfat and other milk solids. 

This is caused by the removal of part of the water, through 
evaporation and by the sterilization. 7 /^^ ^ 

CaiPiaMSoirmlnEIk 



Clean—Sweet— Pure 



is hermetically sealed and sterilized to protect it from all contamination and 
to retain its wholesomeness and purity. 

It is the handiest and most economical milk because you can keep a supply 
of it always on the pantry shelf, and because there is less waste — it doesn't 
spoil as quickly as raw milk. It is daily used in coffee, on cereals and with 
fruit, in place of cream. Cooking experts highly recommend it for cooking 
and baking, as it imparts a rich flavor. 

See the Carnation Milk exhibits when you go to the Panama-Pacific Inter- 
national Exposition in San Francisco — consisting 
of a herd of one hundred head of contented cows 
from Carnation Stock Farm, and a complete 
condensery in operation. Also exhibited in the 
Westfield Division in the Palace of Pure Foods. 
Ask for Carnation Milk in the dining cars. 




From Contented Cows 



If you are not going to the Panama Expositions, 
send today for our new booklet, "The Story of 
Carnation Milk," containing choice recipes. Try 
a small can for your coffee — and a tal' can for 
cooking. Your grocer is your Carnation Milkman. 

Pacific Coast 
Condensed Milk 
Company --r^ 

1702 Stuart Bldg., 
Seattle, U.S. A. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
77 



.\mi-;ric,\x cookI'.ry 




Electric Cooking 
Here! 



IS 



There are thousands and thousands 
of Hughes Electric Ranges in every 
part of the civiHzed world wherever 
electric current is available. They 
are giving infinitely greater satis- 
faction than any other method of 
cooking that has ever gone before. 
The 

Hughes Electric Ran^e 

is not an experiment. It is the finally perfected 
means for applying electricity to cooking. 
Its heat units are the most efficient electric 
range units in existence. It is easier to operate 
than any other kind of a range. It is built to 
last. It eliminates dirt, dust, fuel, ashes and 
soot. It is economical. We also make a com- 
plete line of electrical devices for home and 
hotel — Hot Plates, Auxiliary Ovens, Indepen- 
dent Ovens. Broilers, Bake Ovens, etc. — even 
Radiators and Water Heaters. 

Domestic Science Schools 

are rapidly equipping with Hughes Ranges and 
other devices for teaching cooking in the way 
cooking will be done altogether in the near 
future — by electricity. 

IVe nrge all Domestic Science Schools not 
alreaOy equipued to write for details. 



Hughes Electric Heating Co, 

Dept. "A" 

211-231 West Schiller Street 

Chicago, 111. 



Mary has no judgment whatever, and 
I'd let her go, only T am so tired of 
breaking in new ones." 

If one-tenth of the nervous energy 
which that woman expended upon the 
failings of Mary and her successors and 
predecessors had been spent in person- 
ally looking after the things that re- 
quired her attention, there would have 
been a better conducted home and a bet- 
ter poised mistress. The very fact that 
Mary saved the pancakes showed that 
her tendencies were in the right direc- 
tion. How could she know, after two 
weeks, that this particular family loved 
soup made from roast bones and loathed 
reheated pancakes? 

So, Commandment Number One — 
Look after your own ice chest, until you 
have the maid so well trained that she 
thinks your thoughts and judges with 
your judgment, and plan your own meals 
until the end of time. I doubt if you 
will ever find a maid who will be able 
to do this as satisfactorily to you and 
your family as you can do it yourself. 

In my twenty years of housekeeping 
I have found that, if the meals for the 
day are written out and every dish in 
those meals gone over with the maid the 
first thing in the morning, it makes for 
efficiency all around. With the meals 
planned and the provisions ordered, you 
can go ahead with other work or pleas- 
ure and the maid can plan her work sys- 
tematically. Some maids do not at first 
take kindly to such system, but the great 
majority of them will soon learn to ap- 
preciate the saving of time and strength 
that it means. You will, at first, have to 
tell the maid what she had best prepare 
in the morning and how to take care of 
it until it is needed in the evening. You 
will, at first, have to see that the baked 
stuffed potatoes for dinner and the nut 
bread for. lunch are baked at the same 
time, so as to save fuel and watching. It 
is the exceptional maid who -will see 
these things without training, and you 
are dealing not with the exception, but 
with the average. 

T am sure that, if von take the trouble 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
78 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




RUBBER RINGS 

Do you know that the rubber ring you use in preserving is the 

most important item ? 

Cheap rubber rings harden, crack, and let in air; and your preserves 
" work" and spoil. 

Good Luck rings keep out the air indefinitely. Made of live 
rubber, extra wide, thick, soft and tough and will not taint the 
fruit 

Send 10 Cents for Package of 1 Dozen 

if your dealer hasn't them in stock. 

OUR FREE BOOKLET 

* Good Luck in Preserving" tells why preserves spoil and how 
to prevent it. It also contains 36 unusual and practical preserv- 
^^ ing recipes never before published and 80 gummed and 
printed jar labels. 

Write for it now 
BOSTON WOVEN HOSE & RUBBER CO 

Dept. No. 3 

CAMBRIDGE, MASS. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
79 



AMERICAN COOKERY 





WHIT 
HOUSE 

COFFEK 

SUITS WHEN OTHERS DISAPPOINT 

Its €xrv INSTITUTION- est- 
ablished and MAINTAINED on 
prinolples of strictest HONESTf. 
For every penny of its selling 
price It gtv&s the fullest 
measure of RBAL VALXJB 
and SATISFACTION. 
It's NOTthe^'how-cheap''' 
kind^ BUT the «/iow 
GOOD*^ Rind. J 

.D By OVER 2,4.000 OCAi»i 



&»-- :z 



DWINELtWRIGHTCO 



BOSTON 



:hicago 




I to consider how many of these things 
you had to learn by expensive experi- 
ence, you will see how a maid can not 
know them unless by the same route or 
by your teaching. 

I Another important question in the 
training of the "bride's maid" is, how 
and when shall you criticise? There 
are ways and ways. Some make for 
your self-respect and the greater effi- 
ciency of your maid, some make for the 
opposite. Which way are you going to 
take? 

Suppose that in the first meal you 
cooked for your John everything was 
lovely, except the gravy, which had too 
much grease, and then suppose that your 
John had ignored all the lovely part and 
all the hard work the meal had meant 
and had been very cross over the one 
failure of the gravy. How much heart 
and interest would you have had in the 
preparation of the next meal? 

Yet that is exactly what many women 

1 do in their dealings with their maids. 
They ignore or forget all the good ef- 
fort, all the good results and harp on the 
one flaw. My advice is to use nine parts 
praise to one part blame and give that 
one part blame, not at the time the thing 
occurs but the next time that it is apt 
to occur. For instance, if the steak is 
burned, say nothing about it at the time, 
as this won't help the steak in the least, 
and the chances are that your temper 
will be a trifle on edge. Wait until you 
are to have steak again, then go into the 
kitchen and see how high the gas is 
turned for the broiling. Tell the maid 
that the steak burned last time, that per- 
haps the gas pressure is higher than 
usual and the flame will have to be 
turned down. Say anything rather than 
leave her with the impression that you 
think she is incompetent or careless. It 
is "faith that makes faithful" and not 
doubt. 

Perhaps it was her fault ; perhaps she 
was careless, but telling her so in a tem- 
perish mood will not make her anxious 
to overcome these faults. The fact, on 
the other hand, that you keep your self 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
80 



ADVERTlSEiMENTS 




Ice Cream, Custards, Jellies, 
Blanc Mange, Puddings, 
Hot Weather Delicacies 



Sea Moss Farine 



T>ELICIOUS t NOURISHING I ECONOMICAL. 

To the tired man, woman or child, Sea Moss Farine Beverages are 
better than tea, coffee or alcoholic drinks. Try a cup at night before 
retiring. You will sleep better and awake refreshed in the morning. 
Here are Recipes by Mrs. Gesine Lemcke. See how ta^y they are. 






Sea 31oss Leiuoiiade. 

Mix in a double boiler a half teaspoonful SEA 
Moss Farine with one cupful sugar, add one 
pint cold water and a thin peel of one lemon ; 
Ijoil live to ten minutes, remove and strain 
throujrh a fine sieve or cheesecloth, add to this 
one cupful strained lemon juice, and serve cold 
a little at a time. This is excellent for throat 
trouble. 



Sea Moss Orangea<le. 

Put a half-teaspoonful Sea Moss Fakine in a 
double boiler, add six tablespoonfuls sugar, 
mix the two ingredients together, add one pint 
cold water, place the boiler over the Hre and 
cook five to ten minutes, adding the thin peel 
of one orange, then strain, add a half-pint of 
strained orange juice, two teaspoonfuls lemon 
juice. Serve cold. 



A 25 cent package yields 16 quarts of Desserts. 
Sold by Grocers, or mailed by us. 

Send for FREE Sample and Recipe Book. 

LYON MANUFACTURING CO.. 34 South Fifth Street, BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



PURE 

VANILLA EXTRACT 

Every Housewife knows how difficult it is to 
obtain a Pure Satisfactory Vanilla Extract. 

For years we have been large importers of 
Vanilla Beans and manufacturing Vanilla 
Extract in bulk only for the high class Manu- 
facturers and Dealers. 

Owing to the many demands we have had for our 
Vanilla by the Pint, we have decided to put up our 
Extract in this size for the family trade and sell 
direct, thereby giving you the benefit of the lowest 
price as we eliminate the dealer's profit. 

This is the Highest Grade Extract that can be pro- 
duced, and we appeal only to the most epicurean taste. 



Price $1.50 in FULL Pint Bottles Only 
By Parcel Post, paid 

Send Check or Money Order, or we will send C.O.D. 



CORRIZO EXTRACT CO. 

211-215 West 20th St., New York, N.Y. 



A Free Sample — >^ 

Every woman who wants to 
improve her cooking and make 
tasty and delicious dishes at little 
cost and no trouble, should send 
for a sample bottle of 



^UchenSduquet 



J 



(Reg. U. S. Pat. Office) 

This preparation, for over 30 

years a kitchen requisite, wi 1 

prove a boon to you in making 

soups, sauces and browning 

gravies. 

Mail us your name and address 

and we will send a free sample 

bottle to try, together with 

our booklet of delicious, tested recipes. 

Sold by leading grocers everywhere 

The Palisade Manufacturing Co. 

353 Clinton Avenue West Hoboken, N. J. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
81 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Always 
Ready 
to Make 
Dessert 
in Fifteen 
Minutes 



k- 




Requires No Soaking 
Ready to Cook Immediately 

Minute Tapioca lends itself to such a 
variety of new and tempting desserts. You 
know the good old stand-bys. But, have 
you tried Tapioca Sherbet, Tapioca a la 
Pistachio, Nut Tapioca, Parisian Charlotte 
and the dozens of other Tapioca and Gela- 
tine recipes in the 

New Minute Cook Book? 

Send for it and enough Minute Tapioca for a day's 
dessert. Free. Address (giving your dealer's namej 

MINUTE TAPIOCA COMPANY 
509 E. Main St., Orange, Mass. 

Peach Tapioca: Press the pulp from 1 pt. canned 
peaches through a sieve, saving the juice. Stir together 
% cup Minute Tapioca and Vi cup sugar and boil in I V2 
cups water for 1 5 minutes. Add the peach and juice, stir 
thoroughly and mould. Serve with whipped cream. (This 
is delicious made with evaporated peaches, using V4 'b.J 




control and are generous in your judg- 
ment will go a long way toward making 
iier want to please you and be worthy of 
your trust. 

So, I say, wait until later w^ith the one 
part blame and then so sw-eeten it with 
praise for something well done that the 
sting is gone. As for the nine parts 
praise, give them as quickly and as gen- 
erously as they are merited. I do not at 
all mean to recommend the giving of un- 
merited praise, for this gains neither 
respect nor good service. On the other 
hand, there is some part of the work 
done by every maid which may be gen- 
erously and justly praised and through 
this praise gain a better standard all 
along the line. 

There is the old saying: "As the twig 
is bent so is the tree inclined." So it is 
with the training of the bride's maid, 
the better you start the better you will 
finish. The more justice and system and 
common sense you put into the initial 
training of your maid, the more effi- 
ciency and respect you will gain from 
her. 



That Wooden Spoon 

When I think of the deeds of the knights of 
old 
For a lady fair as the golden moon, — 
I'm willing to stake my hopes of heaven 
For Jane stirring cake with a wooden 
spoon ! 

I dream of those poor old warriors bold, 
Giving their all for the simple boon 

Of a lady's smile, and I'm glad I live today 
When Jane stirs cake with a wooden spoon ! 

That spoon you may guess was a wedding 
gift, 
And Jane never used it until last June, 
But you wouldn't guess that, if you could taste 
The cake Jane stirs with that wooden 
spoon ! J. Talbot. 



These 



'•mark ^ruscross lin«s on ezery package 



8PE1 

FOOD KiDi 



ETIC 

cases of 

JVER TROUBLES 



Unlike othaf gooda^ ">Ask ydV physician. 

Leading jpocers^^^or book or satl^^le, write 

FAR WELL ^ RHINES. Watertown. N?V., U. S. 



Buy advertised Goods — 



do not accept substitutes 
82 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Standard 
Quality 

Backed by a repu- 
tation of 100 years' 
experience and con- 
scientious care. 
These extracts are 
Pure, Strong, 
Economical. 
Ask for them. 
At your grocer's. 



STICKNEY 4 POOR SPICE CO. 

BOSTON, MASS. 



The 

CAYUGA AUTOMATIC 

Ice Cream Freezer 

Makes delicious creams, ices, sherbets 
and frozen desserts without back-breaking 
labor and at small expense. 

No turning of cranks 

Simple and easy to operate 

No parts to become lost 

It saves ice 

It minimizes labor 

It is absolutely sanitary 



AVrite for illustrated catalogue containing full 
instructions, complete recipes and representa- 
tive testimonials 

TREMAN KING & CO. 

.So/fi ^fn n II fact u rrrs 

Depl. B. ITHACA, NEW YORK 





The New 

Can be "Made in a Jiffy" 

With the aid of fruit, berries, whipped 
cream, etc., the practical housewife can 
serve Nesnah in an endless varied of 
dainty and attractive forms. 




You simply dissolve it in milk or cream, 
according to directions, and you have, 
ready to serve, a most exquisite dessert. 

It is the one tasty, delicious tood-dessert. 
Not to be confounded with gelatine prep- 
ations. 



SIX FLAVORS 



LEMON 

ORANGE 

VANILLA 



ALMOND 

CHOCOLATE 

RASPBERRY 



lOc 



a Package 

At iVll Grocers 

Sample sent free 
— full-size package 
on receipt of 10 
Cents. State choice 
of flavor. 

Prepared by 

The Junket Folks' 

Box 2507 

&ITTLE FALLS 
N. Y. 







Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
83 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Better Food at Lower Cost 

The "high cost of living" is a problem which every housewife now has to con- 
sider. To assist her in providing her family with the most nutritious food at the 
least possible expense, **The Nutrition of a Household" has been written. It 
puts the results of scientific investigations into non-technical form and it is written 
so delightfully that reading it is as pleasant as it is profitable. 

THE NUTRITION OF A HOUSEHOLD t:, ,7,Z IIeI^^eT"''^'' 

Jt (til h<>r)l,storrs SI. 00 not, or sriit jiosfixii'l hi/ ilir iiublisherti 
HOUGHTON MIFFLIN COMPANY, 4 Park Street, Boston 




THIS HANDY $0 00 
GRINDER ONLY ^^^— 

Needed in every home. Just the thing 
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, 
etc. Fastens to table or shelf. Turns 
easy with one hand. Geared for high 
speed. Gears enclosed makes it per- 
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel 
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures 
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. Money 
back if not satisfactory. Sent prepaid to 
any address for $2.00 or with our famous 
2-in- 1 Flour Sifter (regular price $1 .00) 
for only $2.50. 

2-IN-1 '^n-M 

(Tested and approved by 
Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to 
clean. Has two compartments 
with sifter between. Sift flour, 
then turn sifter and re-sift as often 
as desired. No trouble, no waste, 
little work. Frr better, cleaner, 
easier, more economical than old 
method. 

Sent prepaid upon receipt of 
$1.00 (or three for $2.00). or 
with Giinder, for only $2.50. 
Every housewife needs them 
both. Order today. 
Agents and Dealers Wanted 
Write for our liberal proposition 

WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO., „See, w's. 





Mudge Patent Canner 

The modern way of canning fruits and vegetables . 
A HOUSEHOLD NECESSITY 



Write for information 



BIDDLE-GAUMER COMPANY 

3846-56 Lancaster Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa. 




Aluminum Omelet Pan 

The omelet is first cooked in one side 
of the pan, the two pans of the pan 
closed together, the pan turned over, and 
the omelet, then, cooked on the other 
side, in the second part of the pan. A 
very handy device for omelets. 

Sent prepaid for two (2) new Subscriptions 
to American Cookery 

Cash Price, $1.25 prepaid 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods 



- do not accept substitutes 
84 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





Fireless 
Cooker 

30 DAYS 

At My Risk 



lON'T yoii want to make a home test of 
one of my celebrated Rapid FireJes-s 
( ookers? Just try one a month at my risk and iirove that 
it will save fuel bills— save meat and gnn^ery bills— and 
save time for uon. I will take the Cooker back gladly at 
the end of the test and refund your money if everything' 
about it is not more than satisfactory. 

I waut you to use it every day — tliree times a day if you wish. My 
Rapid will cook everythina yoii s-ive— make it more digestible, more 
delicious. Try it and h note for yourself. 

I am maKing^ a 
Special Factory Price 
On 10,000 CooKers 

Risilit now to get my Rapid i'to new neiLrhhorhoons <j^miV7.-, T am 
making a specially low iuMdc factory i)rice 011 Ki.ihi.i cookers. But I 
eani.ot offer this bargain very long for the 
price of Aluminum has advanced. The 
Rapid is aluminum lined tlironghout — 
has full equipment of •weaiever" alum- 
inum cookins utenfil?. Trv it in your 
home before I have to raise the price. 

Send for Free Book 

150 recipes for cooking everythinsi by 
fireless. A postal brings it. Address 

Wm, Campbell, Pres. 

The Wm. Campbell Co. 

Dept. 173 Detroit, Mich 




One of the reasons why you will 
get the best results when you use 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

is because this yeast is absolutely 
uniform in purity and strength. 
Our new recipe book free for the 
asking. 

The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 



Highly nourishing r^ 
and appetizing I _ 
foods for Lent \/^o^M^^ 



/ 



jf/';- 



DuriniT Lent it will pay you 
to make frequent use of Kornlet 
as the mala dish of the meal. "< • ; .-.^ 

Kornlet is not only appetizing and delicious in 
flavor, but concentrated nourishment. It is 
simply the delicious milk of an extra choice 
variety of green sweet corn. The part inside 
the hull, extracted and boiled down. 

Write for the Kornlet Recipe Book 
and try these dishes 

Baked Kornlet Succota=;h— Kornlet Cutlets— Kornlet 
Oysters — Kornlet and Macaroni— Escalloped Korn- 
let — are a few of the many dishes in the book that 
are appetizing, nourishinu^, economical. Write for 
copy of this today. Its free. In writing, mention 
your dealers name. 

Order of your grocer 
Many grood grocers handle Kornlet. If yours doesn't, and 
you can't find it at >some other store, send grocer's name 
and 25c in stamps for full-size trial can, prepaid. 

'HE HASEROT CANNERIES COMPANY 
413 Huron Road, Cleveland, Ohio 



or 



-^ 



15 Days' FREE Use 

Moth- -^^--^^^^^^ 

Proof 

Cedar 

Chest 

15 Days* 

Free 

Trial 

How happy ar.d grateful the 
woman or girl who becomes the 

possessorof a Piedmont Southern Ked Leiar "^^ M 100 

Chest : It is the sift that everv womanly heart lonsrs ^k^!^ , . 
for. Exquisitely beautiful. Daintily fragrant. Won- *^ design* 
derf uUy useful and economical. Practically everlasting. A Piedmont pro- 
tects fors. woolens and plumes from motlis, mice, dust and damp. Any 
Piedmont shipped on 15 days' free trial. Direct from factory at factory 
prices. Freight prepaid. Write for G4 page catalog. Postpaid free. Write 
today 
PIEDMONT REP CEDAB CHEST CO., Dept. 21 STATESVILLE. N. C 





FOR THE WOMAN WHO WANTS GOOD THINGS 

LADD MIXERS 

No. I, I qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially 
made, clear glatss urns, fluted sides. LADD 
BEATERS insert into emd remove from same: 
only ones thus made. We warrant they 
save eggs. Positively Best and Most 
Beautiful Made, By Parcel Post : 
No. 1. $1 75, East of Rocky Mt. States. 
No. 1 , $2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West 
No. 2, $2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States 
No. 2, $2.75, Rocky Mt. States and West 



"SATURN" 

CLOTHESLINE REEL 

A round Steel Ball — 
dust proof, nickel plated — 
warranted 40 ft. line, tested to 
1 80 lbs. — takes present clothes- 
pin. Use out - door or in- 
door. Hangs amywhere. Two 
spreading rings. Positively the 

best made at any price. Nickeled, by parcel post 50 
cents. Nickeled and polished, by parcel post 65 cents. 




New — Ready just now. 



Every woman wants these. 



Please write. 



UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway. New York 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
85 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Practical Binders for American Cookery 

We have had made a number of binders in green, red and ecru buckram, 
appropriately lettered. They are neat, attractive and practical. Kach holds 
conveniently from one to ten copies (a full year) of the magazine. 

As there is published in the last number (May) of each volume a com- 
plete index, by preserving the magazines in a binder one will have at the 
end of the year a complete book on cooking and household science always 
handy for reference. 

Sent postpaid for one(l) new subscripti9n to American Cookery. Cash Price 50c 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. m.''s°" 



I ESSONS IN COOKING SSToTXiri:: 

^■^266 seasonable menus with detailed recipes and hill directions for pre- 
paring each meal. Food Economy, Balanced Diet, Menus for all Occa- 
sions, Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette. 480 pp. 
Illustrated. Sent on approval for SOc and 50c for 4 monthi or $2 Cash. 

Satnple Pages Free. 
American School of Home Economics, 603 W. 69th St., Chicago, 111. 



CHNfi POEMS WANTED SlA^^lif^'bi. ZZ 

ml IL'^ ^^** Experience unnecessary. Publication 

%ll^ guaranteed if acceptable. Send us your verses oi 

^ 1 melodies today. Write for free valuable booklet. 

V^ MARKS-GOLDSMITH CO., Dept.135, Washington. D. C. 



MAKE CANDY at HOME 

for Pleasure or Profit 

No Experience Required 

You can make the finest and most delicious 
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spare time and providing your friends with pure 
home-made candies by following out instructions 
in our book. 

"The Art of HOME CANDY MAKING" 

This book fully illustrated and written by a 
practical confectioner contains standard profes- 
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ingredients to use — explains mixing and boiling 
details and gives all the information you will need. 

Regular Price $1.50 Special Price $1.00 
delivered. 




Our special candy making outfit consisting of 
special Candy Boiling Thermometer, 4 Molds 
id Dipping Wire, will enable you to get 
excellent results from the start. 

Price $1.50 delivered 
or $2. 50 book and outfit. 
If you are not satisfied return book 
and outfit and receive your money . 

The Home Candy Makers 
Canton, Ohio 




DOWN CUSHION 

FREE ^^^^^ Goose down- 




:rom live geese. Free 
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soft and sanitary and light as a snow flake. Special 
low price now. Introductory offer for a limited time. 
PILLOWS ON FREE TRIAL. By parcel post to you free. 
Use the pillow 60 days. If rot delighted send them back 
at our expense. No one ever did send them hack though 
free to do it. When you once use luxurious, sanitary live 
goose feathers, you'll have no others. They last forever. 
Send for catalogue postpaid free. A i>ostcard for the 
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LIVE GOOSE FEATHER PILLOW CO. Dept 8, StatesviUe, N.C. 



WE WILL PAY 10 CENTS EACH FOR 

APRIL, 1914 .. JUNE-JULY, 1914 

ISSUES OF 

The Boston Cooking School 
Magazine 

Mail, using 2c. stamp, to us addressed as below, 
putting your own name and address on upper left 
corner of wrapper 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. 
BOSTON, MASS. 



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86 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




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87 



AMERICAN COOKERY 







AT such a time a mere man cannot be expected to lend much more help than happy 
/-\ smiles, proud glances and loving words. But the women w^ho know— the grand- 
mothers-to-be—they provide the practical things, the caps, the socks, the bootees, 
the dresses — even the Ivory Soap! 

Yes, even the Ivory Soap, because the woman who has reared a family of her own knows 
how important it is to start right with the bathing of the baby and the washing of his 
clothes. She realizes that the tender little body must be bathed properly from the first if 
irritation of the skin is to be avoided. And that the dainty garments must be kept soft 
and sweet if baby is to look clean and feel comfortable. 

This same experience has shown that Ivory Soap is ideal for nursery use. She appreciates 
the mildness and purity which make the daily Ivory bath harmless to the tenderest skin 
and enable the mother to wash safely and thoroughly the finest fabric in a baby's layette. 



IVORY SOAP 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 




■Jack Spi'at could eat 
_ His wife could eat no 
But C»EAM.*V^WHEAT y^^LS such 

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no -fat 
lean 
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clean 



^ainted by LoycJ L. LaDnere for Cream of Wheat Co. 



Copyrighi 1915 by Cream of Wheat Co. 



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89 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

Vol, XX ALGUST-SEPTEMBER, 191S No. 2 

CONTENTS FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR LUNCHEONS AND TEAS 97 

A PRETTY BUNGALOW AMID CHARMING SUR- 
ROUNDINGS (Illustrated) . . . Charles Alma Byers 99 
DISHES, OLD AND NEW (Illustrated) Rosamond Lampman 102 

AN OBJECT LESSON Helen Forrest 105 

WHERE ANGELS FEAR TO TREAD . Margery Haven 107 

THE ETERNAL FEMININE Alix Thorne 111 

JUDITH'S FIRST PARTY . . . Klea Alexander Thogerson lU 

AUGUST Ruth Raymond lib 

THE BIDE-A-WEE HOUSE May Berle Brooks 116 

EDITORIALS 118 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M. Hill 121 

MENUS FOR A WEEK IN AUGUST . . . „ „ „ 130 

MENUS FOR A WEEK IN SEPTEMBER . „ „ „ 181 

HOW WE MANAGE E. S. E. 132 

A GUIDE TO LAUNDRY WORK . . Mary D. Chambers 136 

SUCCESS Elizabeth King Maurer 138 

THE BLUE SKY Isabel Study 140 

THE HUMBLE VISION Arthur Wallace Peach 141 

AN OUTING AND INNING Carolyn Munser 142 

MY WAY Sam Walter Foss 143 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES —A Savory Way to Cook 
Chicken — Summer Canapes and Hors d'CEuvres — The 
Elastic Leg of Lamb — Tea Room Ideas — Colonna Fudge — 

Etc., Etc 145 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 149 

THE SILVER LINING 160 

MISCELLANEOUS 166 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times A Year lOc A COPY ^(^^- 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. 
Copyrii{lit, 1915. by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASS. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

90 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Why the modern woman 
insists on Cottolene 

Because Cottolene was in the van of the 
great movement for the improvement of 
food products and the bettering of house- 
hold service — that is part of the reason. 

Because Cottolene established its leadership as a cook- 
ing fat over a quarter of a century ago — that is part 
of the reason. 

But, three times a day there appears on the table the 
best reason why the modern woman insists on 

Cottolene 

Cottolene cannot be excelled and never has been equaled for 
quality, purity, and for producing foods that are more wholesome, 
more digestible and more delicious. 

There is an appetizing appeal in the knowledge that Cottolene 
is made of the highest grade of pure, fresh, ultra-refined cotton- 
seed oil — so high a grade it is not listed on the market — combined 
with beef-stearine from clean, fresh, leaf beef suet. 

Use Cottolene — one-third less than you would 
of any ordinary cooking fat — for all your short- 
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Your grocer will deliver a pail of Cottolene 
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Write to our General Offices, Chicago, for a free 
copy of our real cook book-'HOME HELPS." 




ShOEKFAI R BAN KS^^ill 



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Cottolene makes good cooking better 



99 



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91 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



We have an 

Attractive 

Proposition 

to make to those who will take sub- 
scriptions for 

American Gookery 

Write us for it if you wish to canvass 
your town or if you wish to secure 
only a few names among your friends 
and acquaintances. Start the work 
at once and you will be surprised how 
easily you can earn ten, twenty or 
fifty dollars. 

Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON. MASSACHUSETTS 



lAfOULD YOUR CLUB, CHURCH 
SOCIETY, OR SCHOOL 
ENJOY AN HOUR OR TWO OF 
THE GOOD CHEER AND QUAINT 
PHILOSOPHY OF UNCLE WIL- 
LIAM? 

MRS. ELIZABETH HILL, PAST-PRESI- 
DENT OF A FEDERATED CLUB, GRAD- 
UATE OF THE EMERSON SCHOOL OF 
ORATORY, A READER OF MANY YEARS 
EXPERIENCE, WILL ACCEPT A LIM- 
ITED NUMBER OF ENGAGEMENTS 
FOR THE SEASON OF 1915-'16, TO PRE- 
SENT MRS. LEE'S LOVABLE STORY. 

FOR DATES AND OTHER INFORMA- 
TION WRITE TO 

MRS. R. B. HILL, 

11 MAY STREET, NEEDHAM, MASS. 



INDEX FOR AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 

Bide-A-Wee House, The 116 

Blue Sky, The 140 

Dishes Old and New, 111 102 

Editorials 118 

Eternal Feminine, The Ill 

Guide to Laundry Work, A 136 

Home Ideas and Economies 145 

How We Manage 132 

Judith's First Party 114 

Menus 97, 130, 131 

Object Lesson, An 105 

Outing and Inning, An 142 

Pretty Bungalow Amid Charming Sur- 
roundings, 111 99 

Silver Lining, The 160 

Where Angels Fear to Tread 107 

Seasonable Recipes : 

Bavariose, Apricot, with Snow Eggs, 127 

Betty, Peach or Apple 129 

Celery, Creamed, with Poached Eggs, 124 

Chowder, Clam 121 

Cocktail, Watermelon 121 

Corn, Creamed, Au Gratin 126 

Cutlets, Breaded Veal 123 

Cutlets, Lobster, with Lobster Mousse, 122 

Eggs, Poached 124 

Eggs, Stuffed, for Picnics 124 

Filling for Pumpkin Pie with Honey . 129 

Halibut, a la Aurore, 111 122 

Halibut, Turkish Style, 111 122 

Ice Cream, Lillian Russell Style, 111. . 129 
Potatoes, Baked Sweet, and Bacon . . 124 
Potatoes, Carameled Sweet, and Chest- 
nuts 125 

Potatoes, Creamed, in Green Peppers, 126 

Quinces, Baked en Casserole .... 129 

Salad, Potato-and-Okra, 111 126 

Salad, Stuffed Tomato, 111 125 

Shortcakes, Peach, Blackberry, 111. . 128 

Soup, Green Pea and Spinach . . . 121 

Soup, Creole 129 

Sponge, Blackberry 129 

Stew, Irish, in Earthen Casserole . . 123 

Queries and Answers : 

Biscuit, Trouble with Soda 154 

Bread, Bran, with Yeast 150 

Cake, Chocolate 149 

Cake, German Apple 152 

Cakes, Cup 150 

Chowder, Kornlet 156 

Cookies, Soft Molasses 150 

Cookies, Sour-Cream Drop 150 

Dressing, Red French 150 

Dressing, Thousand Island-Salad . . 152 

Frosting, Caramel 149 

Ice Cream, Peppermint-Candy . . . 149 

Marmalade, Boiling of Amber . . . 158 

Mayonnaise, Why Does it Curdle . . 156 

Meringues, Why They Shrink . . . 154 

Paste, Turkish, Orange Flavored . . 154 

Pastry, Flaky 149 

Peaches, Brandied, Pickled 156 

Pie, Lemon Sponge ^154 

Potatoes, Moist Hashed Brown ... 150 

Pudding, Steak and Oyster 152 

Refreshments, Inexpensive 152 

Rice, Bavarian Cream, with Almonds 158 

Sauce, Mignonette 154 

Souffles, Why They Fall 154 

Soup, Lima Bean 158 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
92 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



These are the days for 
canning and preserving 
fruits and vegetables. 

And there is only one book on the subject worth having, 
because the recipes are absolutely sure, and nothing is 
wasted in experiments— and that is Mrs. Rorer's Canning 
and Preserving. It tells how to can fruits and vegetables, 
how to make jellies, jams, marmalades, fruit butters, syrups, 
catsups, vinegars; also powders and dried herbs, pickling 
and drying. 

Canning and Preserving 

New Edition, 75 cents ; by mail, 80 cents. 






Ice Creams, Water Ices, etc. 

Contains recipes for Philadelphia Ice Creams, Neapolitan Ice Creams, 
Water Ices, Frozen Puddings, and Refreshments for Social Affairs 
and Church Suppers. 

A Dandy Book — only 75 cents ; by mail, 80 cents. 

Mrs. Rorer's Hot Weather Dishes 

Very Choice. Price 50 cents; by mail, 55 cents. 

Mrs. Rorer's New Salads 

A Delightful Book. 75 cents ; by mail, 80 cents. 

Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or 
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom St., Philadelphia 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
93 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Books on Household Economics 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a 
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent post- 
paid upon receipt of price. 
With an order amounting to $5 or more, at list prices, we include a year's subscription 
to AMERICAN COOKERY (price $1). 

Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for 
quotation on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. One order 
to us saves effort and express charges. 



1.80 

.80 
.50 
.50 
.50 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace 

Fletcher $1.00 

American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.00 
American Salad Book. M. DeLoup... l.UO 
Around the World Cook Book. Barroll 1.50 
Art of Entertaining. Madame Mesri 1.00 
Art of Home Candy-Making (with 

thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 2.50 

Art of Right Living. Richards 50 

Baby, The. A book for mothers and 

nurses. D. R. Brown, M. D 1.00 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 1.00 

Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 
Book of Good Manners. Kingsland... 1.50 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. 1.80 
Boston Cooking School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 

Boston School Kitchen Text Book. 

Mary J. Lincoln 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts. 

King 1.00 

Candy Making Revolutionized. Mary 

Elizabeth Hall 75 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer .75 
Canning, Preserving and Pickling. 

Marion H. Neil 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M. D 

Care of a Child in Health. N. Oppen- 

heim 

Care of a House. T. M. Clark 1.50 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50 
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.00 
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland.. 2.00 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.75 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning 

Richards and Elliott 1.00 

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 1.75 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 1.50 

Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 
Color, Harmony and Contrast. Jas. 

Wood 4.20 

Complete Home, The. Clara E. 

Laughlin 1.25 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill .75 
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Cost of Cleanness. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 



1.00 

.75 

1.25 



Cost of Living. Richards $1.00 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good- 
fellow 1.50 

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Thompson 1.00 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50 

Domestic Art in Woman's Education. 

Cooley 1.25 

Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon.. 2.00 

Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 75 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. 

Mallock 1.00 

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25 

Elements of the Theory and Practice 

of Cookery. Williams and Fisher... 1.00 
Equipment for Teaching Domestic 

Science. Kinne 80 

Etiquette of New York Today. 

Learned 1.35 

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 50 

European and American Cuisine. 

Lemcke 2.50 

Euthenics. Richards 1.00 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.. 1.50 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed. . 1.00 

Family Food. G'Donnell 1.00 

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and 

Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer 1.60 

Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett 

M. D 1.50 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry 

Thompson 1.35 

Food & Flavor. Finck 2.00 

Food and Household Management. 

Kinne and Cooley 1.10 

Food and Its Function. James Knight 1.00 
Food and Nutrition. Bevier and 

Ushir 1.00 

Food and the Principles of Dietetics. 

Hutchinson 3.50 

Food for the Invalid and the Convales- 
cent. Gibbs 75 

Food in Health and Disease. I. B. 

Yeo, M. D 2.50 

Food Materials and Their Adultera- 
tions. Richards 1.00 

Food Products of the World, Mary E. 

Green 1.50 

Food Values. Locke 1.25 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
94 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Franco-American Cookery Book. De- 

liee $3.50 

Fuels of the Household. Marian White. .75 
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes 

for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Grocer's Encyclopaedia 10.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 
Handbook of Home Economics. Flagg .75 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town 

and Country. Florence H. Hall . . . 1.50 
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary 

A. Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M. D 1.50 

Health and Longevity Through Ra- 
tional Diet. Dr. Arnold Lorand 2.50 

Healthful Farm House, The. Helen 

Dodd 60 

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50 
Home Economics. Maria Parloa .... 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Stand- 
point 1.00 

Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar- 
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and Their Decoration. French 3.00 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

House Sanitation. Talbot 80 

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan.. 2.25 
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50 
Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. 1.30 

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25 

How To Cook for the Sick and Con- 
valescent. H. V. Sachse 1.00 

How To Feed Children. Louise E. 

Hogan 1.00 

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer ... .75 

I Go A Marketing. Sowle 1.50 

Institution Recipes. Smedley ........ 1.25 

International Cook Book. Filippini . . 1.00 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. 

_ Rose 1.10 

Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara- 
tion of Meals 2.00 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary 

C. Jones 1.00 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations. 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

Menu Book and Register of Dishes. 

Senn 2.50 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer ... .75 
New Book of Cookery, A. Fannie M. 

Farmer 1.60 

New Hostess of Today. Larned .... 1.50 

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer ,75 

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice. 
Isabel H. Robb 2.00 



Nutrition of Man. Chittenden $3.00 

Old Age Deferred. Dr. Arnold Lorand 2.50 
Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

One Woman's Work for Farm Women .50 
Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00 
Practical Dietetics with Reference to 

Diet in Disease. Pattee 1.50 

Practical Home Making. Kittredge . . .60 
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily 

A. M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking. 

Allington 1.50 

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary 

D. Chambers 1.00 

Principles of Home Decoration. Can- 
dace Wheeler 1.80 

Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan. 1.75 
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances 

Lowe Smith 1.50 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads and Sauces. Murray 50 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards ... .60 
Selection and Preparation of Food. 

Brevier and Meter 75 

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman 1.50 
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.10 
Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn .50 

Soyer's Standard Cookery 1.50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Christine Ter- 

hune Herrick 1.00 

The New Housekeeping. Christine 

Frederick 1.00 

The Story of Textiles 3.00 

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How To 

Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi- 
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne 50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.50 

Women and Economics. Charlotte 

Perkins Stetson 1.50 

Woman's Share in Primitive Culture. 

Otis J. Mason 1.75 

World's Commercial Products, The .. 3.60 



Library of Home Economics: 



The House 

Household Bacteriology 
Household Hygiene 
Chemistry of the Household 
Principles of Cookery 
Food and Dietetics 



Household Management 
Personal Hygiene 
Home Care of the Sick 
Textiles and Clothing 
Study of Child Life 
Care of Children 



May be purchased as a set or singly at $1.60 a volume 



Address all Orders: THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
95 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



r^N. 






Pure leaf fat makes 
richer lard; richer 
lard goes farther. 
Hence the economy of 

"Simon Pure'* 
Leaf Lard 

In air-tight pails only. 
Buy it from your dealer. 



CHICAGO 



AR IVI O U R aWd CO M PAN Y 

H P 






Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
96 



PICNIC LUNCHEONS 



Iced Cantaloupes 

Cold Chicken-and-Ham Pies 

Chicken-and-Celery Salad in Yeast Rolls 

Sauce Tartare Sandwiches 

Little Cakes 

Hot Coffee 



II 



Grapes 

Mayonnaise of Lobster, in Tomato Cups 

Cold Veal Cutlets Potato Salad 

Sliced Egg-Salad Sandwiches 

Chocolate ficlairs 

Coffee, in Thermos Bottles 



^ ^ ^ 

PIAZZA TEAS 

I 

Cubes of Jellied Chicken Broth, in Cups 

Lobster Cutlets, Sauce Tartare 

Late Peas and String Beans, in Cream 

Parker House Rolls 

Orange-and-Peach Sherbet 

Lemon Queens 

Candied Mint Leaves 



II 



Peach-and-Pineapple Cocktail 

Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked 

New Lima Beans 

Mayonnaise of Celery and Apple 

Biscuit Tortoni 

Coffee 



















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American Cookery 



Vol. XX 



AUGUST-SEPTEMBER, 1915 



No. 2 



A Pretty Bungalow Amid Charming Surroundings 

Bv Charles Alma Bvers 



FORTUNATE indeed is the person 
who is able to select a site for his 
home that possesses a few grand 
old trees. Flowers and vines may be 
grown in a very short period, but it takes 
years for Nature to produce a well- 
grown tree. The attractiveness of a 
home, viewed from the outside, depends 
largely upon its immediate surroundings, 
and therefore considerable time and 
thoughtful attention should be devoted, 
at some time, to the arrangement of a 
suitable garden. And whether one's 
home is located in the city, the suburbs, 
or the countr}-, there is usually some 
place about its grounds where a few 
trees will constitute an enhancing embel- 
lishment. Therefore, if Nature has al- 
ready provided such foliage, the owner 
of such a building site will come just 
that much nearer to possessing a charm- 
ing setting for his home from the very 
beginning. Of course, it may sometimes 
seem quite impossible to satisfactorily fit 
the house into the pre-arranged setting, 
but every effort to do so should be made 
'before destroying any of the trees that 
might later be desired. In the matter of 
a suburban or country location, this 
warning is particularly applicable. 

The home here shown, is an excellent 
illustration of what may be done toward 
conforming a house to a natural setting 
of ready-grown trees. This building 
site, located in the suburbs of a small 
town in Southern California, was for- 
merly a part of an orange grove, and 



along the roadway, to form a wind- 
shield for the orange trees, was grown a 
row of pines. In order to locate the 
house a number of the orange trees were 
removed, but the pines were unmolested, 
and in this way a most charming setting 
has been created. The house is embow- 
ered in foliage that could not have other- 
wise been had for several years, and 
with its well-kept lawn and its flowers 
and shrubs the home presents a picture, 
as seen from the street, that is indeed 
attractive. 

And the style of the house is such as 
to conform most effectively to such a 
location. Its m.asonry work consists of 
well-chosen cobblestones, and cobble- 
stones are also used in various ways 
about the grounds. The chimneys and 
porch pillars are especially massive in 
their proportions, and in this way an 




THE LI\ ING-ROOM 



99 



100 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



appearance of both rusticity and solidity 
is created. The walls are covered with 
sawed redwood shakes, and the roof, 
possessing wide overhangs, is shingled. 
The siding is stained a dark-brown 
color, and the roof is painted a very 
light green — which colors, with the al- 
most pure white cobblestones, produce 
a very striking effect. 

The front porch provides a ven' in- 
viting entrance, the front door opening 
directly into the living room. This 
porch is ceiled and has cement flooring. 
It is enclosed by a low cobblestone par- 
apet, over the top of which runs a cop- 
ing of concrete. Beside the porch on the 
front, there is a small pergola or porch 
on one side, from which entry is pro- 
vided to one of the bed rooms. Al- 
though this pergola is protected only by 
ordinary pergola beams and the wide 
projection of the roof, it constitutes a 
particularly desirable retreat, reason- 
ably well secluded from the street. 

Inside, the bungalow is conveniently 
and simply arranged, and the finish and 
decorating are such as to create coziness 



and comfort. There are five rooms and 
a bath, besides a small hall that pro- 
vides convenient connections between 
the different rooms. Underneath the 
center is a concrete walled-and-floored 
basement, eleven by thirteen feet in its 
dimensions, and a hot-air furnace lo- 
cated here supplies the heat. The stair- 
way to this basement makes its descent 
from the hall, and from the hall also 
rises a stairway to a roomy attic. 

The living room and dining room ex- 
tend across the front, and sliding glass 
doors make it possible to close the broad, 
portiere-draped opening that intervenes 
when desired. The living room has an 
excellent fireplace, constructed of old- 
gold brick, with a low bookcase at either 
side ; and in the dining room is an artis- 
tic buffet, which, with its china closets, 
extends across the entire end wall. The 
counter-shelf of this buft'et runs the full 
width of the feature, and over the cen- 
ter portion of it are four small art-glass 
windows. The lower part of the walls 
of this room are paneled, along the top 
edge of which runs the usual plate rail. 




THE DIXING-ROOM 



CALIFORNIA BUNGALOWS 



101 



The woodwork of both rooms is of Ore- 
gon pine, treated to resemble mission 
oak in color, and the walls are plastered 
and papered. The flooring here is of 
quarter-sawed oak. 

There are tw^o bed rooms, each of 
which contains a closet. One of these 
rooms also possesses a small fireplace, 
as well as a tiny alcove with a window^ 
seat. The woodwork in these rooms is 
white enameled, and the walls are cov- 
ered with paper of delicate colors and 
patterns. 

The kitchen and bath room are like- 
wise finished in white enamel. The 
lower part of the walls are of hard- 
finish plaster, which has been blocked 
off and enameled so as to give the ap- 
pearance of tile. The upper part of the 
walls and the ceiHngs are tinted. On 
the screened porch in the rear of the 
kitchen are a broom closet and a lava- 



tory, besides the customary wash tubs, 
and in the small hall is a small linen 
closet. The woodwork of the hall is 
also enameled, and the flooring in all of 
the rear parts of the house is of pine. 

This little bungalow constitutes a de- 
lightful home in every detail. It has an 
attractive, picturesque exterior, and a 
cozy and conveniently-arranged interior. 
More than that, it is strongly and 
warmly constructed throughout, and, 
while it is situated in the suburbs of a 
small town, it possesses all of the mod- 
ern conveniences of a city home. It is 
of such style and construction as to be 
adaptable to any climate. 

It is located in Altadena, California, 
and was designed by E. B. Rust, an ar- 
chitect of Los Angeles. It represents 
a total expenditure of $2,400, for which 
sum it should be duplicated in almost 
any locality. 




|[||L_Ji ^iL_.J| 






Dishes Old and New . 

By Rosamond Lampman 




A LENOX TEA-POT 

THE use of earthenware is so old 
that we can scarcely record its 
origin. From the early Egyptian 
days when crude pottery was manufac- 
tured by hand from unprepared clay, 
and quaint hieroglyphs were the only 
decorations, scratched on after each 
piece was burned, down to the famous 
pottery age of the sixteenth and seven- 
teenth centuries, when shapes and de- 
signs were characterized by national in- 
fluences, there have been furnished 
ideals to which every modern potter 
looks for inspiration. 

Even in those historical days, when 
beautiful and durable ware was pro- 
duced, it was often manufactured under 
difi(icult conditions, for the potter's meth- 
ods were slow and crude, making fine 
china scarce and expensive. In our for- 
bear's time wooden trenches, pewter 
platters, and rude earthen dishes were 
universally used, although every thrifty 
housewife managed to own, at least, a 
few cups and plates of real "chiny," 
either the ''Nankeen," the ''blue and 
white Canton," or "Staffordshire," for 
best. So precious was this azure crock- 
ery from over the seas that in many 
colonial homes no one, save the mistress 
herself, was allowed to take them down 
from their place on the high pantry 
shelf, to be dusted, or used on festive 



occasions. Had our great grandmothers 
been less careful of their choice posses- 
sion there would not have been so many 
rare old dishes left for the collectors. 

Today modern science has combined 
the old art of pottery with new ideals 
and later methods, which has resulted 
in many new and beautiful wares, some 
of them so cheap that the housekeeper 
with little money at her disposal can set 
her table as daintily and attractively as 
the one with an abundance at hand. 
Harmony and fitness she may look for 
in color, design, and form, as well as 
in homely purpose of utility, which is 
far more interesting than mere elegance. 
The snug little cretonne-draped dining 
room, or the one along craftsman lines, 
may have its china selected to fit a par- 
ticular scheme, just as well as the pa- 
latial one that more costly equipments 
demands. 

While much of our pottery is still 
imported from Europe and the Orient, 
we are proud to know that quantities of 
beautiful and durable porcelain and 
china are being produced in this coun- 
try, at much lower prices than that im- 
ported, and every year sees a distinct 
advance in artistic designs and shapes, 
as well as in quality of texture. One 
can purchase a one-hundred and eight 
piece dinner-set in excellent porcelain 
of American make, decorated with gold 
edge and initial, for eleven dollars and 
ninety-eight cents, whereas an English 
porcelain of the same number of pieces, 
in no better quality, would cost at least 
five dollars more. 

The Onondaga pottery, of Syracuse, 
N. Y., is fast becoming famous for its 
beautiful, serviceable china, equal in tex- 
ture to that made in England, with 
shapes and designs distinctively Ameri- 
can. Among their popular dinner-sets 
is a handsome gold-band pattern, in 



102 



DISHES OLD AND NEW 



103 



which pure coin gold is used. The 
Tudor Rose pattern is a conventional 
design, carried out in soft tones of rose, 
green and yellow. The Thebes is an- 
other, a composition of Eg}'ptian em- 
blems daintily designed in gold with 
maroon, green or red. Then there are 
the Old Harlem, the Canterbur}', and the 
Indian pattern of which the quaint sim- 
ple lines and unique design, characteris- 
tic of true Indian art, makes this set 
charmingly adapted to the craftsman 
dining room. 

The Lenox China Company, Trenton, 
N. J., is producing a lovely china. Some 
of their sets and services are very ex- 
pensive, and only the best stores keep 
them in stock. One exquisite dinner-set 
in old ivory china with wide flat coin- 
gold bands, initial, and gold handles, is 
beautiful and rich enough to grace a 
king's table, providing the royal dining 
room has ^vlission influences. The 
quaint tea-pot shown here gives one an 
idea of the beauty and distinction of this 
set. 

The Homer Laughlin China Company, 
of Ohio, have an extensive pottery 
works, and their porcelainware is widely 
known all over the United States. Much 
of the cheaper product is sold on the 
five-and-ten cent counters in department 
stores by the piece ; their simple shapes 
and designs, as well as their durability 
and cheapness make them ver}' popular. 

Among the important imported wares 
are the English porcelain, the English 



and French chinas, and the Japanese, 
Bavarian, German, and Austrian wares. 
The English china is superior to the 
French ; it is more expensive, perhaps, 
though not as delicate in texture, but the 
finish is more beautiful, and being' heav- 
ier, is less brittle and therefore more 
durable. The most beautiful and well- 
known English chinas are the Royal 
Doulton, Minton, Colburn, Spode, Cope- 
land and Worcester; the most popular 
of the French makes are the Havi- 
land and Limoges. While the shapes of 
these sets are characteristic of the coun- 
tries in which they are manufactured, 
their designs are often similar. Some 
of the English shapes, especially the 
Minton sets, are unusually beautiful; 
many of them bear the same lovely 
graceful lines and designs of old his- 
toric days. 

Some of the Clinton and Royal Doul- 
ton sets are very expensive, while others 
are more reasonable. A lovely one-hun- 
dred piece set of Royal Doulton, gold- 
edged, gold handles, with a single initial 
in Old English style, sells for one-hun- 
dred and fifty dollars, and another, bear- 
ing a single leaf and flower design in 
pink and dull green, as low as thirty-two 
dollars and fifty cents. A set of Lim- 
oges richly decorated with gold and ini- 
tial, or in any plain conventional design, 
can be bought from fifty to one-hundred 
dollars, and a lovely Haviland in the 
daintiest of moss-rosebud pattern for 
fiftv-five dollars. 







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NIPPON TEA-SET 



104 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Many of the Bavarian sets are equally 
as lovely as the French. Their prices 
run from fifteen dollars up to seventy- 
five and one-hundred dollars for a full- 
sized dinner-set. Those of the Austrian 
and German ware, though not as effec- 
tive in design and shapes as the English 
and French sets, are equally as durable 
and less expensive. One handsome din- 
ner-set of German china has a narrow 
flat band of dull gold, edged with black, 
which is very efifective. The shapes are 
quaint, including the old style square 
platters, covered serving dishes, and tall 
soup tureen. 

The old-fashioned blue and white pat- 
terns are lovely for some dining rooms, 
especially the one furnished along colon- 
ial lines, and they come in both the ex- 
pensive china and the more inexpensive 
porcelain sets. A very beautiful dinner- 
set of blue Canton china may be bought 
for seventy-five dollars, and a William 
Adams style, in English porcelain, for 
twenty-five, and a Ruskin willow pattern 
for fifteen dollars. 

For the special sets the Japanese 
dishes are always lovely. Breakfast and 
tea-sets in the Sedji are very reasonable 
now, most of it comes in the plain colors, 
gray-green, red, lavender, and mustard. 
The Nippon tea-sets are very pretty, and 
some of them very cheap. The one 
shown here has a simple hand-painted 
design in gold with a touch of rose; it 
consists of tea-pot, sugar bowl, creamer, 
and six cups and saucers, and was bought 
for five dollars. Another charming set, a 
bit more expensive, was in a lovely soft 
blue with a characteristic design in 
white. A cracker jar and large plate to 
match comes extra. Tea and chocolate 
sets of the Awaji and lyo ware are 
even cheaper than either the Sedji or 
Nippon. 

There is a charming tea-set, just the 
thing for a birthday or wedding present. 



of Copeland willow-ware, which has the 
loving old line, *'A Cup o' Kindness," in 
quaint lettering, just inside the rim of 
each cup. Or, could one wish a gift that 
would convey a prettier sentiment than a 
tea or chocolate set in the true Blue 
Bird pattern, they come in the Austrian 
ware, six cups and saucers, tea-pot, sugar 
bowl and creamer, for only three dollars 
and sixty cents ; these sets are not as 
delicate in texture as some of the others 
and for this reason they are specially 
suited for the porch or out-door living 
room. For those on the lookout for 
novelties there are the various special 
sets in the silver deposit ware. Some 
of them are so pretty that one can not 
resist buying, at least for gifts, if not 
for one's own use. 

If possible buy your china in Febru- 
ary or March ; in most of the best stores 
these annual sales will ofifer you a sav- 
ing of from twenty-five to fifty per cent. 
In selecting a dinner-set the simple dig- 
nified patterns and conventional shapes 
are the ones to look for. Nothing is 
more attractive and suitable to any din- 
ing room than the dull gold band, either 
plain, in the Greek-key pattern or some 
other equally as simple. 

Always buy an open-stock pattern, for 
by so doing you can replace a piece 
when cracked or broken ; then too, if 
one prefers not to purchase a full set at 
one time, more pieces may be added, 
from time to time, as you feel the need 
of them. If you can not afford a set 
of good china, get the porcelain ; though 
not as dainty in texture, it has better 
wearing qualities, and for general use 
will last longer than a cheap china. To 
know whether a piece is really china or 
porcelain, look at the under side of a 
plate or cup ; if it shows a light brown 
rim it is china, but if this is pure white 
it is porcelain. As a rule, ware of good 
quality is most economical. 



An Object Lesson 



By Helen Forrest 



JOHN J. MILLS, bachelor, had 
made four proposals of marriage 
to Mrs. Evarts Lansing, widow, 
and had been once severely, once tear- 
fully, and twice sweetly refused. 

The first occasion, marked by the 
lady's severity, had been a year after Mr. 
Lansing's death, and the widow had 
quite naturally resented what she consid- 
ered an untimely wooing. 

Tearfulness marked the second at- 
tempt, year later; Mrs. Lansing de- 
clared that she did not love anybody, but 
she didn't want to lose her best friend, 
"and you are my best friend, John," she 
added shakily. 

When she had been three years a 
widow, and was sailing for six months 
in Paris, Mr. Mills again propounded the 
familiar question. Sweetness was this 
time the prevailing note of the accus- 
tomed answer, and she said consolingly : 
"John, if it could be anyone, it would be 
you, but love has come and gone for me 
— there is no gathering up of the raveled 
threads of life." 

The fourth answer, just after he had 
followed her to Paris, having found him- 
self strangely lonely, corresponded so 
closely to the third that the widow's mind 
seemed fairly fixed. Claiming, there- 
fore, the gladly accorded rights of old 
friendship, John Mills became squire-of- 
dames, joining the brown-eyed widow in 
her daily sight-seeing, smoothing the 
tourist-trodden paths, and adding in a 
thousand little ways to her comfort. 

He was not without a decided touch of 
romance, this John J. Mills, though his 
years numbered fifty-three, and his occu- 
pation was the manufacture of automo- 
biles. He had staged his four declara- 
tions with an eye to appropriate settings, 
once in a park where he had induced 
Mrs. Lansing to walk; once in an auto- 
mobile on a picturesque bit of country 



road; once by an open fire in the lady's 
own house; once in a friend's conserva- 
tory among the flowers. But this is the 
story of his fifth proposal, which oc- 
curred last June, fourteenth, and which 
settled matters once for all between 
them. 

"We haven't seen the Gobelin tapestry 
works, Emma," Mr. Mills remarked as 
he presented himself at the neat recep- 
tion room of the small hotel Mrs. Lans- 
ing afifected in Paris. "You know I am 
rather keen on tapestry, and besides that, 
this Gobelin place is worth seeing from 
an historical point of view." 

"Ed love to go there!" Not the least 
of Mrs. Lansing's charms was her de- 
lightful enthusiasm, a girlish quality un- 
impaired by her thirty-five years. 

"But don't think you can buy a piece 
of tapestry there," she warned him ; "it 
is a state institution, where France makes 
presents for the royal brides of Europe, 
and," hastily, "all kind of official places. 
You can't buy them for love or money." 

A swift automobile ride through an 
unfamiliar territory on the left bank of 
the Seine brought the color to Mrs. 
Lansing's cheeks as they climbed the hill 
of Montemarte and turned into the Rue 
Gobelin. They halted at an old stone 
gateway over which floated the tri-color 
flag of Erance ; on the gate was an in- 
scription which Mrs. Lansing somewhat 
haltingly translated : 

"Jean and Philibert Gobelin, dyers in 
scarl.et, who have left their names to this 
quarter of Paris, had here their atelier 
on the banks of the Bievre, at the end of 
the fifteenth century." 

"Why, they didn't make any tapestries 
at all!" she declared; "but all this is 
named for them." 

The long, low factory, once the home 
of nobles, was just inside the gates, and 
on it another inscription told them that 



105 



106 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the Gobelin industry was established un- 
der the patronage of Louis XIV., and 
under the direction of Charles Lebrun, 
the famous painter. 

"I've read a good deal about tliis place, 
Emma," said her companion ; "in fact, it 
has served as a sort of model for that 
cottage scheme I put through last year 
for my workmen. You see, these Gobe- 
lin workers were experts, really artists, 
and the state made them comfortable. 
Every man, besides his salary, had his 
own home and garden space in the Jardin 
les Gobelins. I wish that I could be sure 
that our men would make the work 
hereditary, as it was here, after four 
generations in the same business." 

"I think it was wonderful of you to 
build those cottages ; I want to see them 
again." said Mrs. Lansing enthusiasti- 
cally. 

"You shall see them, Emma ; I'm glad 
they interest you," remarked Mr. Mills 
meaningly. 

They stepped into the first of the four 
exhibition rooms where hang the Gobelin 
tapestries, showing the work of the 
ateliers from the early days at Fountain- 
bleau down to the present time. The 
great painters of two hundred years ago 
drew the designs for these royal fabrics, 
— Lebrun, Corneille, and Van Loo 
among them. The workmen toiled with 
no financial uncertainty ; small wonder 
that the Gobelin workers reached their 
highest point in those days. 

An obsequious English-speaking guide 
had attached himself to them, and now 
led them to the sunny atelier, where 
workmen who looked like artists sat at 
their weaving. 

The vertical threads of the looms 
stretched from floor to ceiling, and on 
them was sketched an outline of the de- 
sign to be followed. The workman 
faced the reverse side of his canvas, 
judging his work from the mirror over 
his head, where the right side was re- 
flected. A colored sketch hanging near 
guided his choice of colors. Beside him 
a basket of English wools showed these 



colors in bewildering variety, more than 
a thousand shades being in use at the 
Gobelin. Silk is used for the "high 
lights," but there is small trace of the 
gold and silver threads which weighed 
down the tapestries of the early days, 
and made them the spoil of robber bar- 
ons. 

"From these many-hued wools," broke 
in their guide, "one may see the artist 
select the shades needed for his imme- 
diate use. These he weaves in by means 
of a wooden shuttle, and here," pointing 
to a basket, "for a few centimes Madame 
may possess a souvenir of the work of 
Les Gobelins." 

The souvenirs in question were the 
shuttles discarded by the workmen as 
being slightly roughened, and hence use- 
less. They were six or seven inches long, 
half the length being in the handle, on 
which was wound several varieties of 
wool. 

"My respect for tapestries grows," 
murmured Mrs. Lansing. "I never 
dreamed one piece was as long as an or- 
dinary room." 

"What impresses me more," said the 
manufacturer of automobiles, "is the fact 
that this weaving is such a slow matter 
that a square yard of tapestry is called a 
good year's work. At that rate, these 
men at work on this piece bid fair to 
become well acquainted." The new 
tapestries seemed glaring in their vivid 
colors after the faded, restful tints of the 
older pieces in the exhibition rooms. 

"Let us leave these and look once more 
at the old ones," whispered Mrs. Lans- 
ing. "The guide says they are restoring 
some old ones which the government 
bought at a sale of a ruined chateau. 
Who knows," she went on with a touch 
of romance, "but one of these Gobelin 
pieces kept the draughts from some high- 
born bride in an old, windy palace !" 

In an adjoining room a group of work- 
ers was seated at an enormous tapestry, 
torn and faded, one corner of which 
showed a large-eyed goddess leaving a 
temple in a wood. A great rent had de- 



WHERE ANGELS FEAR TO TREAD 



107 



moralized a band of warriors watching 
her progress from a distance. This par- 
ticular piece, the guide explained, was 
the wedding gift of France to the daugh- 
ter of a great prince, and it was injured 
by a mob during the Commune. The 
war had sadly reduced the family 
iinances, and after two generations the 
chateau had been sold, the government 
gladly buying back this torn but famous 
tapestry. 

Stimulated by the interest of the visit- 
ors, their guide sent for a restored fabric 
which was to be returned to a govern- 
ment building. Rolled out in its full 
glory, the wonderful product showed no 
faintest break, yet the guide, after ques- 
tioning the head workman, assured them 
that it had been sent to the factory in far 
worse condition than the one they had 
seen under repairs. 

"You may say," began the guide with 
a fine oratorical effect as he pointed to 
the restored piece, "that nothing in this 
world is broken or torn beyond repair. 
A little time, a little patience, a little skill 



— all is as before disaster. A lesson for 
us all, — eh, monsieur and Madame?" 

A fine wave of color swept I\Irs. Lans- 
ing's cheek, ascended to her carefully 
waved brown hair — the Frenchman 
looked on entranced, while Mr. Mills met 
her hastily averted eyes with a look of 
deep meaning. 

Out ill the open the maker of automo- 
biles faced the lady of his choice; bare 
factory walls stood before them; sun- 
baked earth was under their feet, and 
around them swept the stream of tour- 
ists ; the setting for this, his fifth declar- 
ation, was not picturesque, but Mr. Mills 
had to say that which might not be de- 
layed. 

"Emma!" he began firmly. "You 
heard what that Frenchman said about 
things being restored, broken threads — 
anything — I feel it. too," he floundered 
painfully — "it isn't too late, Emma; tell 
me you believe the miracle can happen 
in our lives !" 

"I do," responded Mrs. Lansing sol- 
emnly, and gave him her hand. 



Where Angels Fear To Tread 



By jNIargery Haven 



IN common with all brides, Peggy 
Gaston had the smug complacency 
of the newly wed. Very early in 
her matrimonial career she had told her 
husband, "This is your home Bob and 
you must always feel free to have 
guests. Even if I am not prepared, I 
shall make no apologies and your 
friends will always be welcome." 

Since Bob was a very young husband, 
indeed, this new aspect of his wife's 
character made her seem the very para- 
gon of all feminine virtues and he went 
about literally swelling with pride and 
importance. He did not know that this 
remark has been made by all brides since 
the days when "Adam did delve and Eve 
did spin." And the strangest thing of 



all is the fact that all brides never for 
a moment doubt their sincerity. Peggy 
was no exception to the last. 

But the day soon came on which she 
was to be put to the test. They had been 
married but a few months when one day 
.Bob ran across an old college classmate 
who was in the city for a few hours. 
After a few moments of the old-time 
hilarity Bob pulled out his watch. A 
memory of a succession of faultlessly- 
cooked dinners flashed through his mind, 
simultaneously with Peggy's earnest in- 
junction of a few weeks ago. 

"Say, old scout, come out to the house 
to dinner with me. It's as good as a 
reunion to see you. There will be plenty 
of time for your train afterward. Also," 



lOS 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and he smiled whimsically, "it's an edu- 
cation to see Peggy, you know !" 

"That's a big inducement, Uob. Hut 
I doubt very much her pleasure in hav- 
ing an unexpected guest to dinner." 

"Oh, that's all right." His tone was 
very confident. "She l^as told me to 
bring company whenever I wanted to." 

Now Newton Smith had had one or 
two rather recent experiences in this 
same direction, w-hich he did not wish to 
repeat. Therefore he was cautious. 

"Why can't you telephone Mrs. Peggy 
to come down and both of you have din- 
ner with me here." And he pointed to a 
hotel across the way. "It's a pleasure 
I don't have very often, you know^" 

"Peggy would never forgive if I 
didn't bring you up. We're pretty proud 
of our little home, you know." 

"You married men are all alike!" and 
his guest laughed as they boarded a 
passing car. But there was fear and 
trepidation in his heart. 

As they neared the apartment Bob's 
light-hearted confidence began to ooze a 
little. Suppose that Peggy had devel- 
oped a head-ache ! She never had such 
things, but there must always be a first 
time. Suppose the neighbor's dog had 
stolen the dinner ! Suppose, worse than 
all, Peggy and burned her fingers on 
that treacherous gas-stove and was wait- 
ing for him to cook the dinner! While 
these awful thoughts were running 
through his head they had been drawing 
nearer the apartment and, before he had 
time to conjecture further, Peggy stood 
at the door waiting to greet him. A 
smiling Peggy, sans head-ache, sans 
burns ! 

Two hours later Bob looked over a 
candle-lit dinner table through a slight 
haze of tobacco smoke at his wife's rosy 
face. The dinner had been perfect. A 
dinner of which any housekeeper might 
have been proud. And except for a very 
diminutive dab of flour on Peggy's face 
one could almost have supposed a well- 
trained corps of servants out in that 
mysterious place called the kitchen. Her 



delight in her guest had been real and 
there had been no hurried consultations 
or warnings beforehand. Yes, she was 
perfect, this Peggy ! And he smiled at 
her in a way that made her face more 
rosy than ever. 

h^or the last ten years Newton Smith 
had helped to swell the exchequer of the 
hotel and lunch-counter. So he, also, 
found occasion to look across the candle- 
lit table and to think many things. 

This happy experience made Bob very 
brave. So brave that he dared repeat it. 
Pegg}''s unexpected guest this time was 
a middle-aged bachelor. One who had 
been sort of a fairy god-father to Bob 
all through college. Also one who was 
accustomed to a retinue of Japanese ser- 
vants and who w^as a connoisseur of 
foods and wines. But infinitely more 
horrible to Peggy w^as the fact that this 
man's wedding present to them, a hide- 
ously expensive monstrosity of gold ma- 
chinery, called a clock, was at present 
residing in the dark closet under the 
stairs. But Peggy never flinched. She 
went through it like a Trojan. She was 
gracious and composed. To Bob she 
seemed adorable. But he never knew of 
the tears that watered the kitchen table 
when she opened a can of soup of the 
ten-cent variety, and \scraped ofif the 
burned bottom of a cottage pudding, 
which she must offer to this man who 
was accustomed to the delicacies of for- 
eign cooks. 

But their guest quickly banished all 
constraint. He was absolutely at home 
and ate his dinner with evident enjoy- 
ment. He even asked for two servings 
of the despised cottage pudding. As he 
was leaving he pinched Peggy's cheek 
aft'ectionately. 

"I pass through this place about once 
a month, young lady, and if you'll allow 
me I'll invite myself up to dinner. I 
haven't had anything that tasted so good 
in many years. Though," and he shook 
his finger at her, "I'm afraid the pretty 
cook added greatly to my enjoyment!" 

When he had gone, Peggy drew a 



WHERE ANGELS FEAR TO TREAD 



109 



great breath of relief. She felt as if 
she had braved Scylla and Char}'bdis. 
She also felt that nothing in the future 
would be impossible in the culinary line. 
She felt that now with perfect equanim- 
ity she could ask the King of England 
himself to sit down to a mutton chop. 

But not even a hint of the ordeal she 
had been through ever reached Bob's ear 
and he went about blissfully uncon- 
scious of the ripple he had caused on 
their placid married existence. 

For some weeks their dinners "a 
deux" went on uninterrupted. But one 
night as he was leaving the office he no- 
ticed his Chief standing by the window 
idly strumming with his fingers on the 
pane. Bob wondered at this. Generally, 
at this time of night, this man was hur- 
rying out to join two or three excited 
youngsters in a pony cart or a sweet- 
faced matronly woman in a nui-a-bout. 
He started to speak, but the man fore- 
stalled him, 

''Pretty lonesome town when the wife 
and kids are away !" 

"Is that the trouble? I thought your 
private car was a little late in arriving 
tonight." 

Bob stopped to talk a moment. 

This was the man whom he wanted to 
know above all others. But he was a 
man who held himself very much in 
reserve, particularly to those under his 
employ. Bob liked his business and 
knew it well — and it was to this man he 
must look for recognition. Therefore, 
he was glad of the opportunity of a few 
minutes' better acquaintance. They 
talked for some minutes and then the 
man picked up his hat. 

"Well. I guess FU take in a cabaret. 
Couldn't you come with me?" and his 
voice sounded a bit lonesome. 

Then Bob had the Big Idea, the In- 
spiration. He almost gasped with the 
audacity of it. Then he straightened 
his shoulders with detennination and 
plunged his hands in his pockets. 

"Mr. A\'ellman, I'd like awfully to 
have vou take dinner with me. I have a 



wife and a home that I'm pretty proud 
of and it would be a great happiness to 
show them to you. You may take my 
word for it, though you could hardly ex- 
pect my opinion on such a matter to be 
entirely unbiased, that it puts it all over 
a cabaret show ! Please come." His 
voice was very eager and boyish. Thert 
was a noticeable hesitation on Mr. Well- 
man's part. Perhaps, because he was a 
married man himself. But he was very 
much interested in this young Bob Gas- 
ton. IMuch more so than the young man 
realized. This would provide an ex- 
cellent opportunity to study him at close 
range. He knew that a man reveals his 
true self over a dinner table, particularly 
when that dinner table happens to be his 
own. So he accepted this sudden invi- 
tation. 

On the way up to the house Bob occu- 
pied himself with a picture of their re- 
ception. An expectant Peggy would 
rush to the door to meet him, — a Peggy, 
flushed, rosy from the kitchen, garbed in 
one of those professional-looking aprons 
which she affected. He pictured her 
surprise and her pretty smile and he 
thought with pride of the composure 
with which she would greet her guest 
and the unhurried appetizing dinner 
which would follow. Taking all this into 
consideration, Bob can not be blamed if 
he walked up the steps and rang the bell 
with firmer stride and with straighter 
shoulders than formerly. But no pretty 
Peggy appeared. A little disconcerted 
at this delay. Bob rang the bell again. 

"Pegg}' must be busy," he said jovi- 
ally. 

Bob carried a latch key in his pocket, 
but this ringing of the bell and having 
Peggy admit him was a part of their 
daily programme. He strained his ears 
for the hurried footsteps in the hall. 
Still the door remained closed and no 
Peggy appeared. With reluctance he 
drew the key from his pocket and allowed 
his guest to precede him into the house. 
He listened anxiously for a sound, but 
the house seemed strangely empty. 



110 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Just make yourself eoinfortable." he 
said as he ushered Mr. WeUman into 
the tiny Hving room, "and I'll go on a 
voyage of discovery." 

He was curious — more than curious. 
There was a peculiar feeling in his throat 
and a sinking sensation around his heart. 
Yet he whistled bravely. A search 
through the few rooms failed to reveal 
a Peggy. Perhaps she had gone out at 
the last moment to buy something for 
dinner! But that theory was exploded 
when he looked around the kitchen and 
saw not a sign of dinner in progress. 
Then he looked wildly .around for some 
trace of a note. In the few times that 
he had arrived at home before Peggy, 
he had found a huge placard inscribed 
with some bit of nonsense, stuck in the 
most conspicuous place in the room. But 
a survey of even the out-of-way corners 
failed to reveal any such token. Bob 
was plainly disturbed. Moreover, a 
hungry man sat in the other room wait- 
ing dinner as his guest. He mopped his 
brow and decided that he might as well 
go in and face it. 

"I guess our dinner will be a little bit 
late tonight, Mr. Wellman. Peggy seems 
to be — " and here his voice trailed off 
into silence. He was gazing with some- 
thing akin to horror at the chair in front 
of him. There with all its lacy frilhness 
and rose-buds exposed to public view, 
lay Peggy's pink kimona ! He looked at 
his guest. The older man quickly 
checked a strong desire to laugh. The 
tragic look in Bob's eyes forbade him. 
He, too, had been young once and so he 
was kind. 

"Great news in the paper tonight, Gas- 
ton." 

"Haven't seen anything but the head- 
lines," Bob answered shortly, and moved 
over to the window that commanded a 
view of the street. There was a silence 
of some minutes l^roken only by the 
crackle of a news])aper. Bob's eyes 
roved up and down the street in search 
of a familiar figure. Suddenly the tele- 
phone bell broke the stillness. Bob had 



the receiver in his hands before it had 
stopped ringing. 

"Peggy?" he asked abruptly. Mr. ■ 
Wellman stopped reading and listened 
openly to as much of the conversation as 
he was able to hear. 

"Yes ! Why home, of course." Bob 
went on hurriedly. "Where are you?" 
An expression of utter bewilderment and 
blankness went over Bob's face. Then, 
with a thud he sank into a nearby chair 
dragging the telephone with him. 

"Yes," — this time weakly. "I — I 
guess, I forgot Peg," — this time con- 
tritely. "Could you wait thirty more 
minutes?" His tone was very beseech- 
ing. He put the receiver down, reluc- 
tantly, and gazed straight ahead of him 
for some minutes. Then he wiped the 
perspiration off his face and went in to 
his guest. 

"Have you always thought me fairly 
intelligent, Mr. Wdlman?" 

The older man's eyes twinkled. "I'm 
a married man myself," he said in an- 
sw^er. "What's the heinous crime you've 
committed ?" 

"It's pretty bad, sir, pretty bad ! You 
see, it's this way. Peggy and I were 
going to celebrate an anniversary tonight. 
Not a wedding anniversary," he ex- 
plained, hurriedly, "but just an occasion 
that we — " He flushed in embarrass- 
ment and kicked at a wrinkle in the rug. 

"I understand, perfectly," Mr. Well- 
man assured him soberly. "Go on." 

"I had asked her out to dinner and she 
was to wait for me at Janson's. Could 
anything be worse, sir?" and he laughed 
rather shamefacedly. 

Mr. W^ellman looked at him solemnly 
for a moment. Then he asked, "How 
long did you say you had been married ?" 

"Eleven months," Bob answered. 

Plis guest nodded his head. "Well 
there's a chance for you then, my boy. 
But wait till you've been married eleven 
years, then tlie Lord help you, Gaston !" 

"Do I dare give you another invita- 
tion? Can I ask you to come help us 
celebrate ?" 



THE ETERNAL FEMININE 



111 



The man raised both his hands above 
his head. 'T've sworn off celebrating 
any anniversaries but my own. But 
just .to prove to you that I don't cherish 
any hard feehngs, I'll invite myself to 
dinner for tomorrow night, and of this 
delusive episode Mrs. Gaston need 
never be the wiser." 



Bob shook his head. "Peggy's sense 
of humor is pretty well developed. I 
guess she'd enjoy this as much as any- 
body. But ril pass the fun of telling it 
over to you." 

And then the two men shook hands 
and each went his own way in pursuit of 
a dinner. 



The Eternal Feminine 



By Alix Thorn 



MARGARET didn't confide in her 
assembled family, though the 
invitation arrived one June 
morning when a fresh wind, flower- 
scented, ruffled the net curtains, and blew 
daringly over the breakfast table, doing 
its best to disarrange the yellow roses in 
their crystal bowl, which served as a cen- 
ter piece. No, she opened the interest- 
ing looking envelope, read the letter with 
only a hint of heightened color, and, lay- 
ing down said letter, helped herself to 
orange marmalade. But, though ^lar- 
garet continued her breakfast, a prosaic 
enough occurrence, her thoughts went 
soaring, and fled the confines of the sun- 
ny breakfast room. They carried her to 
blue mountain peaks, silhouetted against 
bluer skies, where cloud shadows scur- 
ried across their wooded sides, only to 
lose themselves in dark ravines — still she 
could feel the rare coolness of those 
green trails that led up and into the mys- 
terious mountain fastnesses, and, as if it 
were yesterday, there rose before her 
mind's eye the wonder of a picture gar- 
den that stretched before a brown-shin- 
gled bungalow, where she had spent an 
unforgotten Summer. Had not young 
love walked with her here, and had not 
young love glorified it all ! Was it, could 
it be, fifteeen years ago, that she, fresh 
from college, had visited her mother's 
friend, Mrs. Maynard, and felt the magic 
of the mountains and that other magic, 
too? In the cottage next to the ^lay- 
nards, only a daisy field between, he had 



stayed, Richard Brinsmaid, also just out 
of college, and at once had begun the in- 
timacy that transfigured that Summer 
for them both. Yes, and it ripened with 
the Summer's ripening into something 
deeper and sweeter than mere intimacy, 
this youthful idyll, and then, then — vaca- 
tion over, he went his way, she hers, his 
way being to the coast where his father's 
business interests lay — hers was in the 
East, and though voluminous letters were 
regularly exchanged, yet when a year 
had passed they were writing only occa- 
sionally. 

He gave interesting descriptions of 
California, his long horse-back rides, of 
the breezy \\'estern girls he met, and she 
in return told him of the new friends 
that were coming into Jicr life, the clubs 
to which she belonged, her art work — 
yet. though the years had dulled it all, 
though it was long over and gone, yet she 
could still tenderly recall her ''Mountain 
Summer," and her memory box still held 
the mementoes of those months. Some- 
times, at house-cleaning time, she looked 
over the many snapshots that she and 
Richard took of each other, and of 
woodland glimpses, stretches of white 
road, the deserted house, and many, 
many of the garden, with its sentinel 
sundial. 

Xow, oil. irony of fate! she was asked 
again, she an older, wiser woman, to 
visit in this same bungalow, though now 
it had a different mistress, to come to 
the mountains she had never seen since, 



112 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



be, she told herself, sort of a feminine 
Rip Van Winkle, and then, involuntarily, 
she smiled, for she had caught a sudden 
glimpse of herself in the mirror in the 
buffet — no, not quite a Rip Van Winkle 
yet — for even her family told her that 
she held her own surprisingly. Rounded 
cheeks were reflected this morning, 
cheeks that still had a girlish fashion of 
flushing, dark hair that showed, only oc- 
casionally, a thread, that, as one of her 
friends expressed it, didn't match ; her 
eyes still held a hint of smiling, and 
life was yet full of interests and pleas- 
ures. Most of her friends had married, 
leaving her feeling a trifle deserted, the 
"Aunt Margaret" to numerous adopted 
nephews and nieces ; and sometimes she 
had a sensation of being pushed into a 
place that she had not in the least in- 
tended to occupy. All this passed 
through her mind as she nibbled toast 
and played with her fish-cake and bacon, 
and then she rose from the table, clasp- 
ing tightly the electrically charged en- 
velope. Her mind was made up ; she 
would accept Kitty Burton's enthusiastic 
invitation, and go to her and to her 
mountain bungalow. Had she not once 
found joy and gladness there? Now, 
she could be glad over just out-of-doors, 
and agreeable society, for Kitty, once her 
room-mate at college, had a way of gath- 
ering about her interesting people, wher- 
ever she might be, and Kitty's husband, 
big-hearted, kindly Tom Burton, was 
never so happy as when playing the 
genial host. 

''And now, though I've decided," she 
confided to her intimate friend, Isabelle 
Freeman, two days later, 'T cannot help 
feeling that it's an experiment — oh, don't 
smile, you old, settled-down, married 
person ; you don't quite know how / feel 
about that bungalow, and its mountain 
setting. It's a precious memory, and 
I've never forgotten Dick Brinsmaid, 
though no doubt he's forgotten me. It's 
not that I'd even care to meet him, only 
it was a lovely youthful experience, and 
to find myself facing a suitable prosaic 



Summer, with simply, plain wood-walks 
to explore, instead of magic trails, and 
just regulation every-day mountains to 
watch in place of purple and blue opal- 
escent peaks, on the Maxfield Parrish 
idea, why — somehow I feel that I shall 
of a sudden realize my lost youth, and 
get so hopelessly middle-aged and staid 
that I shall choose a comfortable chair in 
a retired corner of the piazza, order 
glasses from the nearest reliable oculist, 
crochet constantly, and, tolerantly, watch 
the passing show, only murmuring to my- 
self, sometimes, 'I, too, have lived in 
Arcady.' " 

''Guess you're a trifle tired from your 
full Winter, my dear Margaret. I was 
sure that Charity Club of yours would 
do you up," was the sensible comment ; 
"get some pretty gowns, a sport suit for 
walking, learn to do your hair in the 
latest fashion, and, by all means, visit 
your memory-filled bungalow, and secure 
some nezv memories to fill up neglected 
corners, and," with an affectionate pat 
on her caller's shoulder, "don't fail to 
write me your impressions of 'Yarrow 
Revisited,' I beg of you. I ever look 
forward to receiving your sprightly let- 
ters." 

It was the second day of July that 
Margaret, a graceful figure in her smart 
blue serge suit, trig sailor hat, and white 
mesh veil that held in her rebellious 
locks, stepped off the train and saw wait- 
ing on the platform of the little moun- 
tain station a radiant, sun-browned 
Kitty, who hugged her rapturously, and 
said : "How pretty, how very pretty you 
look, and how tidy, after your long jour- 
ney. Hozu do you do it? And this is 
Professor Brent, one of my house par- 
ty," and, turning, Margaret's dark eyes 
met an interested pair of gray ones, be- 
hind gold glasses, and she found herself 
smiling up into them as she acknowl- 
edged the introduction. 

''No, the mountains cannot change," 
she mused, as the car followed the steep, 
winding road she so well remembered, 
and she caught marvelous glimpses of 



THE ETERNAL FEMININE 



113 



the solemn ranges, darkening in the late 
afternoon, and bright bits of verdant 
meadow land lying, like patch-work 
quilts, in the valley far below. 

By her sat Professor Brent, an enter- 
taining traveling companion, and Mar- 
garet discovered, at this early date, that 
she would find one congenial soul, at 
least, in Kitty Burton's bungalow. She 
was astonished to see herself going has- 
tily through her wardrobe and deciding, 
before they reached the last turn, that a 
certain pink marquisette w^as her choice 
for early dinner, it being both becoming 
and a trifle heavier than some of her 
gowns, for the mountain air felt cool. 

She opened her eyes, next morning, to 
find a bright blue day had dawned, and 
gave a long look toward the mountains, 
in whose valleys the white mist still lin- 
gered, and then gave a hasty peep at the 
garden of her dreams, still a wonder of 
bloom and scent, as in former days, and 
there stood the gray old sundial, guar- 
dian of opening buds and gay little wind- 
ing paths, and then, humming a merry 
air, she went in to her bath. 

Perhaps it was because Professor 
Brent loved out-doors, as did she, and 
found trout brooks and mountain trails 
endlessly alluring, that IMargaret didn't 
find time to occupy a corner of the piaz- 
za, and crochet industriously, as she had 
feared she would, for certain it was thai, 
as the days fled as if on wings, pinker as 
well as browner grew Margaret's cheeks, 
caressed by the sun and wind, and. surer 
were her light feet on the difficult trails. 
There were picnics to ravines and neigh- 
boring mountains, or to some famous 
waterfall whose silvery voice would 
reach them long before they came in 
sight of it, like some imprisoned dryad 
hidden in the forest ways. 

Both Professor Brent and Margaret 
made good use of their cameras, and 
many were the snapshots they secured of 
mountain ranges, winding country roads, 
corners of the garden, and meri-y groups 
composed of members of the cheerful 
house-party. When the full moon made 



a glory of the country night, long would 
they linger on the broad piazza of the 
bungalow, drinking in the rare beauty of 
mountains and valleys, and bird-haunted 
meadows, and far, very far away seemed 
the busy life of the city, of which each 
one was nevertheless a part. 

In vain Isabelle Freeman, intimate 
friend at home, waited for news of Mar- 
garet's second mountain Summer, and 
when, at last, toward the end of August, 
the postman handed her the letter, she 
impatiently tore open the fat envelope, 
read its contents absorbedly, re-read one 
page, and a curious smile curved her lips, 
an amused smile, which slowly turned 
into a tender one, and this was the para- 
graph that she read again — 

"After all, it's not a Rip Van Winkle 
Summer, Isabelle, but a peifect, satisfy- 
ing one, as if I re-lived that Summer 
long ago, for the years seemed to have 
rolled back. Once I had a glimpse of 
love in these very mountains, and now, 
again, young love has met me, and oh, 
Isabelle, this second Summer is to have a 
very different ending — wait, zvait till you 
see my Professor. I enclose a snapshot 
that doesn't half do him justice, and ut- 
terly fails to show his splendid head and 
fine eyes." 

Long did Isabelle study the snapshot 
of a stout, spectacled, bearded man, of 
certainly fifty, and she had the grace not 
to compare it with a fading snapshot 
once given her by Margaret, and which 
she had come across the other day, when 
sorting some photographs, of a tall, ath- 
letic youth, glorious in flannels, who once 
had strode over those self -same moun- 
tain trails with a slight girl named Mar- 
garet for his companion. 

"No, romance never does die," she 
murmured, "and in whatever guise it 
comes, youthful and splendid, or stout 
and reliable, it doesn't in the least mat- 
ter, for it is to the woman it seeks and 
finds always, always young love," and 
she carefully i^laced the snapshot, which 
did not half do Professor Brent justice, 
on her own particular writing desk. 



Judith's First Party 

By Klea Alexander Thogersoii 



IT was a hut, sultry Saturday in 
Lawndale. If that peaceful suburb 
were seemingly unendurable, what 
must it be in the city? At least, so 
thought the various wives as they 
struggled with the morning's work, so 
that all might be serene, outwardly 
at least, by the time the men came 
straggling home for a few hours of 
Saturday afternoon freedom. 

On some days, the problem of fill- 
ing those hours might solve itself, but 
each and every wife well knew that on 
such a day as this, coming so sud- 
denly in the midst of an otherwise 
well-behaved spring, no mere hoe, 
rake, or hose could drag even the most 
enthusiastic commuter from a com- 
fortable chair on a shady porch. Of 
course, it must be understood that a 
sympathetic wifely ear was, also, a 
porch necessity. Hence, the haste to 
get the work out of the way and be 
ready. Mrs. Cook was hard at it, or 
else this tale would never have been 
told. 

There was considerable work on the 
Cook place, too, for they went beyond 
the average commuter; kept a cow 
and styled themselves farmers. When 
the day proved so hot, Mrs. Cook de- 
cided that all the cream on hand 
should be made into ice cream, as a 
special surprise and treat for the din- 
ner that night. That meant watch for 
the iceman and get extra ice, spy the 
wary vegetable man and beguile him 
into selling a dozen more eggs than 
had been ordered. To be sure, Hulda 
might be trusted with these responsi- 
bilities, l)ut then, — well, you know the 
old saying about doing a thing your- 
self. 

Eldest Daughter was helping and 
things were moving smoothly and on 
time. Robert and the youngest, Ju- 



dith, were busily engaged in trying to 
decide how the cow, Sweet Marie by 
name, talked to her calf and what they 
said, for it was evident they thor- 
oughly understood one another. Tir- 
ing of that they sought companion- 
ship, but, either because of the hot 
morning or home duties, no one was 
in evidence. Perhaps the need of their 
fellow beings was what put the idea 
in Judith's head, for she suddenly 
said, 'T wish I could have a party." 
The more she thought, the more did 
she desire the party, so into the house 
she went, leaving Robert to find out 
how a curry comb would improve a 
calf's appearance. 

Passing on through the hot kitchen 
to the darkened dining room, she 
found her mother reading various re- 
cipes for ice cream, idly wondering 
whether she should make it plain va- 
nilla, or add some of the strawberries 
laid away for Sunday. 

''Mother!" 

''Well, dear? Umm — here it is — 
rich custard for umm — " 

"Can't I have a party? I mean, may 
I? A real party with games and good 
things to eat?" 

"Why, yes, dear, six eggs — cool it — 
yes, dear." 

Breathless with delight, Judith's 
langour and the heat became things 
forgotten as she raced out to tell Rob- 
ert. In a few moments the two of 
them were headed up the street and 
appeared to be innocently counting 
fingers as they went. 

One after the other accepted, and if 
any mother wondered how on earth 
Mrs. Cook could have the energy on 
such a hot day, she merely decided it 
was but one more example of Mrs. 
Cook's well-ordered regime and me- 
thodical capacity for accomplishing 



114 



JUDITH'S FIRST PARTY 



115 



much in a seven-day cycle. 

Bobbs Allison was particularly glad 
of the opportune invitation, for his 
father had told him he expected his help 
in the garden that afternoon. Of all 
the crowd, Jim Rogers was the only one 
who couldn't come, for he and his 
mother were to meet Mr. Rogers in the 
city and visit the dentist. It is super- 
fluous to remark that Jim had nothing 
to do in the making of the engagement. 

Luncheon at the Cook home was al- 
ways a simple affair on Saturdays. No 
one ever lingered at the table, so, per- 
haps, that accounted for the indifference 
shown Judith's fits of abstraction alter- 
nating with excited moments. Just be- 
fore lunch she had put on a fresh dress 
and bows, perkier than usual, on her 
hair. But since that occurred every Sat- 
urday noon it did not seem at all strange 
to the rest of the family. 

About two-thirty, with everything 
done, Mrs. Cook was about to take her 
weary self to the cooled and darkened 
bedroom above when she noticed some 
children coming up on the porch and 
called Judith. 

*'0, it's the party coming, mother." 

"Party?" 

"Why, yes, you said I could have 
one." 

For just one instant ^Irs. Cook's little 
planet reeled, but only for a moment. 
She was brought to a keen realization of 
her whereabouts by hearing Eldest 
Daughter say, ''Do you mean to say that, 
after everything is done, we've got to go 
to work and get up a lunch for these 
children?" 

Wearied but valiant eyes looked at 
Eldest Daughter as she gently said, 
"But what else is there to do? I should 
have known the child by this time and 
set the time myself for the party. I 
marvel they didn't arrive before lunch." 
So saying and sighing, she set to work, 
aided and abetted by Eldest Daughter, 
for when were mothers and Eldest 
Daughters ever known to fail in mo- 
ments like this? 



While games were played, and shouts 
of laughter came from every inch of the 
Cook lawn, two weary and perspiring 
women set forth the preparations for 
the Reason-For-Being of every child's 
party. ^Meanwhile, a ver>^ neglected anrl 
injured man sat alone in his glory on 
the shady porch, alternating reading and 
dozing audibly. Whatever mutterings 
were heard from the rear of the house 
came, you mav be sure, from the abused 
Hulda. 

At last, the word went forth that all 
was ready and the expectant crowd 
trooped in. After seating themselves 
around the dining table, with Judith at 
one end, and Robert at the other, a sud- 
den shyness overcame them. Grubby 
hands tried to rub sweaty faces, leaving 
designs thereon which were far from 
chaste. But interest in the good things 
set before them soon succeeded any em- 
barrassment there may have been, and 
cup cakes still suspiciously warm, won- 
derful homemade ice cream, lemonade 
and popcorn balls left nothing to be de- 
sired by youthful guests. If there were 
any accidents on the tablecloth, or 
spilled lemonade on erstwhile immacu- 
late costumes, let us pass it by, thank- 
ful that it was no worse. The cares of 
a hostess sat lightly on Judith's shoul- 
ders, while Robert felt that constant 
urgings to take more constituted a host's 
whole duty, and concentrated on that, 
with noticeable results. 

It was a happy little crowd that called 
back their farewells in the twilight after 
having politely assured the entire Cook 
family of their having had a delightful 
time. 

After a cold lunch augmented by the 
left-overs from the party, a weary fam- 
ily sat on the porch in the moonlight, 
Mr. Cook sat with a cigar, and as he 
watched the rings of smoke ascending 
he would steal glances at his wife and 
daughter. The usual two reasons for 
discretion in conversation were sound 
asleep upstairs, but still nothing was 
said. Eldest Daughter felt she couldn't 



116 



AMERICAN COUKERV 



do justice to the occasion. Mr. Cook, 
watching his wife's tired face, saw the 
danger signals and knew he wouldn't do 
it justice, so it was left to the mother, 



as usual. As a chill breeze sprang up 
and they arose to go in, Mrs. Cook said, 
"Well, 1 suppose it's all in a lifetime, 
but one surely does live and learn." 



August 

She comes with lilies on her breast 

And asters at her feet, 

The golden-glow her lips have prest, 

Her song is clear and sweet, 

Across the ripened fields she speeds, 

Ilcr mood is wondrous gay 

While laughing rills and smiling meads 

Delight her on the way. 

Ruth Raymond. 



The Bide-a-Wee House 



By JNIay Berle Brooks 



MRS. ROLLINS worked in a high 
class restaurant before her mar- 
riage, and afterward engaged 
with her husband in operating a similar 
establishment. But when the two babies 
came Mr. Rollins decided he owed his 
wife an easy berth, so he bought a small 
place in the suburbs, and invited her to 
be comfortable and happy. 

But Mrs. Rollins was too much of a 
business woman to be thoroughly con- 
tented with a life of ease, even though 
those two, tiny kiddies were there to 
share it with her. Her years in the busi- 
ness world had molded her energies and 
made her love the creative part of her 
work; besides, there should be some 
money laid by for the children's educa- 
tion. And she missed the bustle of the 
busy city. 

"John," she said one night at dinner, 
"let's move back to town." 

"It would mean some skimping, Pol- 
ly," and his eyebrows expressed surprise. 
"Our rent will be high, and we couldn't 
afiford the help we have now. And, Pol- 
ly — think of the children." 



"Now, don't look so reproachfully at 
me," Polly pouted. "I'm not the cruel 
mother you would make me out ! Lis- 
ten, Ben. On the car today I passed an 
old, abandoned house — one of those de- 
lightful, rambly houses, you know, that 
look so friendly. It was sitting away 
back from the road, all drab and close- 
shuttered, like some shy old lady 
ashamed of her quaintness — ^and there's 
a lot of gnarly old apple trees that the 
youngsters can climb, and all the blue 
grass they can roll in — why, it's twice as 
big as our lot here! I got ofif the car 
and inquired about it, and learned that it 
was the old family home of some man 
living in Europe, and that he didn't take 
much interest in the place of late years. 
I peered in and saw that the wood work 
was of solid walnut, Ben, and I think a 
few dollars' worth of paint and varnish 
will make it perfectly habitable. Of 
course, the outside will need paint, and 
there'll he some modern i)lum1)ing to do. 
If he won't do it, we can." 

"\\niew, Polly ! You're going some ! 
Has some long-lost relative left you a 



THE BIDE-A-WEE HOUSE 



117 



legacy since I left home this morning? 
Or, perhaps, yon unearthed a pot of 
gold in that queer old place?" 

"No, but I expect to ! Just listen ! I 
saw three ads in Sunday's paper from 
people wanting room and board in the 
country. And I've had ever so many 
persons ask me if I wouldn't take them 
to board out here. Those who work all 
day in the business district, with nothing 
but brick wall scenery to gaze upon, 
crave an environment that will counter- 
act such a necessary, but prosaic one. 
Now, this house is very large, Ben, and 
while it is in the city — only twenty-five 
minutes out — ,with all its conveniences of 
quick car service, running water, elec- 
tricity, and gas, it is far enough out to 
suggest the real country, too. And there 
is such an immense yard, with shade 
trees and roomy porches — why, we could 
even have a few chickens to help out the 
setting!" 

"That will be rather hard upon you, 
little woman," John remonstrated. 

"Not a bit harder than I have it now. 
I'd rather manage a big house and direct 
a retinue of hired helpers than attend to 
one small one and do most of the work 
myself. That's been my training, you 
see, Ben, and I can't quite overcome my 
desire to run things. I'd be making 
money without any more exertion, and 
I'd be more contented, too." 

So Polly rented the house and pro- 
ceeded at once to make it attractive. A 
goodly number of hammocks were strung 
up on the porch and in the yard, the old 
garden w^as restored and fitted out with 
seats and little tables, and the porch had 
all manner of comfortable lounging 
chairs and cushions. The latter was also 
screened on all sides, and the back part 
used for a summer dining room. 

Polly went into debt to furnish all the 
things she desired, but she was wise 
enough to see that if one wanted the best 
she must give the best. And Polly's 
rooms were full in less than a week, and 
she doesn't have to advertise. There are 
names on her waiting list ready to move 



in when the first roomer leaves; for, 
summer and winter, her house is a draw- 
ing card, not only because of its attrac- 
tiveness, but because it is conducted on 
such a businesslike basis that nothing 
ever goes wrong. 

Polly has a big roll-top desk, with tele- 
phone and typewriter, under the stairway 
at the end of a hall, and here she works 
with thoroughly up-to-date system. Or- 
ders are typewritten and given to the 
servants, menus planned, tradesmen in- 
terviewed, receipts made out, bills paid, 
and all complaints adjusted. She has in- 
stalled an electric vacuum cleaner, which 
keeps the rooms in the pink of condition 
without a general upheaval, and every 
morning a maid goes over the floors with 
sweeper and dustless mop. The bedding 
is changed twice a week, and towels and 
napkins daily, for an electric washing 
machine and mangle makes laundry work 
easy for the woman who comes twice a 
week. 

A feature that appeals to the women 
boarders is the privilege of using the 
stationary tubs and electric iron in the 
basement on days they are not in use by 
the house laundress. Xo comforts or 
other unwashable bedding are used, but 
light-weight quilts, spreads and blankets 
that may be tubbed often. IMattresses 
and springs are of the best quality — it 
would be poor economy to have them 
otherwise — and they are protected by 
slips and pads which are regularly 
washed. 

There is a couch in each room for 
lounging, with washable linen or cotton 
cushions, a nice, comfy wing chair and a 
combination table and desk, in addition 
to the usual furniture. The wall paper 
is plain, and there are hangings and chair 
covers of cheery cretonne ; but all fur- 
ther decorations are left to the taste of 
the occupant. In the closets are a few, 
plain, wooden coat-and-skirt hangers, 
also a laundrs' bag and another for shoes, 
and a hat rest (made of a tin can cov- 
ered with cotton padding and silk or cre- 
( Continued on pa.^e 166) 



118 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
FoREKiN Postage : To Canada, 20c per Year 
To OTHER Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

' TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received . 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership and ina7iageme7tt as re(]uired by 
the Act of Cofigress of August 24, i<^i2. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers : R. B. HiLL, B. M. Hill 

Oivners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

PUBLISHED ten TIMES A YEAR BY 

The Boston Cooking-School Maga/ine Co 
372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter 



AT HOME 

AMERICAN interest in domestic af- 
fairs is growing rapidly. Schools, 
colleges, state and national governments 
are engaged in providing special instruc- 
tion for the guidance of the average 
household. This year, of necessity, peo- 
ple, for the most part, are to remain at 
home. The vacation season will be 
spent in America. Already, it is said, 
camps, summer schools and places of 
resort are flooded with applications of 
prospective visitors. All these places, 
both at the seaside and the mountains, 
will be taxed to their limits. People in 



large numbers, also, will make the long- 
anticipated visit to California and the 
great Expositions, where again matters 
domestic outrank all others. After all, 
it is worth while for people of different 
sections of the land to visit each other 
and become better acquainted. The 
number and variety of the attractions 
beneath American skies are so great they 
can not well be exhausted, at least, in 
one season. Besides, over against the 
pleasure of the annual trip abroad, a 
year of travel and social intercourse at 
home may result in inestimable gain. 
To attain full appreciation of the beau- 
ties and blessings of our own land is a 
consummation greatly to be desired. 

SELF PROTECTION 

WE can not keep our minds from 
the misfortunes of the awful war. 
The waste is frightful; the economic re- 
lations of the world are broken up. We 
hate war and the war spirit, we love 
peace and the fruits thereof. We agree 
with the peace advocates and their mo- 
tives ; at the same time we are convinced 
that the conclusions of the extreme 
pacifists are erroneous and misleading. 
We would that it were not so. They 
fail to distinguish sufficiently between 
aggressive and defensive preparation for 
war. Their arguments are not convinc- 
ing. The facts of history, individual ex- 
perience and natural law all convene to 
refute their final contention. 

Self-protection is the law of nature. 
All life is conditioned on it. This law 
is sometimes referred to as that of the 
survival of the fit. We find it easy, as 
well as convenient, to live at peace and 
on friendly terms with our strong, mus- 
cular, healthy neighbor, who we know, 
though he be not of fighting disposition, 
is amply able to defend himself and his 
interests. We respect him, and our re- 
lations are ever polite, genial and 
friendly. Likewise, the nation that is 
prepared to defend her rights and pos- 
sessions will be respected and apt to be 
at peace with the rest of the world. 



EDITORIALS 



119 



This lesson may be learned from the 
present war. 

"Preparedness for war" has come to 
be an offensive expression. It has been 
associated too much with competitive 
preparation for war, which is absurd. 
While competition may have had much 
to do with the state of affairs in Europe 
today, certainly the result does not seem 
to encourage a continuation of that pol- 
icy. We will not assent to the proposi- 
tion to prepare for war, for we are op- 
posed to war. Wq do assent, however, 
to the sentiment that our first duty is to 
maintain peace ; our second duty is to 
prepare to defend ourselves on land and 
^ea. No nation has any other safe in- 
surance of maintaining peace. Our pos- 
sessions, our achievements and our 
ideals must be safeguarded. 

CIVICS 

T X these days there are few words we 
-^ hear spoken more frecjuently than the 
word "civic" or "civics." And each per- 
son, it seems, who uses the word puts 
into it his own particular meaning, and, 
therefore, it has come to mean many 
things to many people. 

In the memory of the writer, the word 
"civics" first appeared in large capitals 
on the back of a text book, and just what 
it then stood for seems very vague now. 
The nearest I can come to guessing at 
the meaning is that it had to do with 
some governmental and economical form 
of human endeavor or organization. 

It is clear to me now that the word 
"civics" made no very strong impression 
on my mind in those days, and that we 
ceased to be even on speaking acquaint- 
ance as the years passed. Then sudden- 
ly, for me, at least, again appears this 
"civics," claiming everybody's attention 
and, what is more, getting it, and I am 
wondering if this is the same "civics" I 
knew, or another member of the same 
family. Certainly, its constant presence 
and practical way of forging to the front 
seem different from the strange, retir- 
ing "civics" of former days. 



Even at my desk, I do not escape its 
importunities ; for before my eyes, in full 
view, lies the notice of the "ward meet- 
ing of the Woman's Civic League" of 
the precinct in which I live and exercise 
a more or less limited franchise on elec- 
tion days. 

This same notice has, in large, black 
letters, the following questions : 

"Will you join your ward Civic 
League ? 

"Will you co-operate with the work of 
your Civic League in distributing litera- 
ture, addressing groups, holding meet- 
ings in your home, and serving on com- 
mittees? Also, in serving as flock guar- 
dian in your neighborhood and helping 
to get complete registration and vote? 
Will you contribute to the expense of the 
work?" 

To what end in the practical affairs of 
my neighborhood life, I ask? And as I 
ponder over the question, there comes to 
me this answer as to what "civics" 
should mean in any neighborhood: A 
binding together of the women, particu- 
larly; to secure these results : 

1. Equal suffrage. 

2. Acquaintance with the work of the 
aldermen in the City Council, especially 
our own aldermen. 

3. Co-operation with all other wel- 
fare bodies to secure clean conditions, 
both physical and moral, surrounding our 
homes, schools, and our children, wher- 
ever they be. Among the physical as- 
pects of the question should be the keep- 
ing of all lawns, front and back, free of 
waste paper (vacant lots as well), en- 
couraging the planting of trees, and the 
care of those already planted, the secur- 
ing of playgrounds for children in con- 
gested districts, with the result of nice 
lawns for the homes and, in general, a 
condition of good housekeeping, which 
begins in the home and ends only with 
the city limits. In this way "civics" 
comes to mean finding a way of manag- 
ing the affairs of a city or community. 
Wherever a body of people are gathered 
together, discussing human interests in 



120 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



these times, "civic 
and usually in the 
affairs. 

Doubtless in the 
''civics" will be as 
city, town or home 
come so, people w 
the word ''graft" 
and that the good 
related to the good 



s is in their midst, 
"limelight" of public 

near future the word 
familiar as the word 
, and when it has be- 
ill have learned that 
has grown obsolete, 
of each is intimately 
of all. s. s. M. 



WORKING TOGETHER 

Men differ from most other animals in 
that co-operating with one another is the 
basic condition on which they live. The 
strongest and most skillful carpenter 
could hardly in a lifetime build a com- 
mon log cabin without drawing on the 
labor of other men. To fashion with his 
own unaided hands a tool that would 
fell and trim a tree would take a long 
time. 

Robinson Crusoe took with him to his 
island the embodied labor of hundreds 
of other hands. Set any man down, soli- 
tary and naked, on a section of the most 
fertile land in the Northern Mississippi 
\^alley, and he would perish of cold and 
hunger in a short time. The natural re- 
sources of the United States barely sus- 
tained a few thousand Indians, who 
were always at the edge of famine; and 
even they worked together to some ex- 
tent, or they could not have lived at all. 

Nations live by the labor of other na- 
tions, as individuals by that of other in- 
dividuals. Our religion came from Asia 
Minor, our political system mostly from 
England. Britons invented the steam en- 
gine and the railroad locomotive, by 
which we thrive. Bell could not have 
invented the telephone nor Wright the 
flying machine if many foreign minds 
had not worked on electricity and aero- 
nautics. 

There is hardly an article in our pos- 
session and no thought at all in our 
minds to which foreigners have not in 
some way contributed. The more exten- 
sively we co-operate the more we pros- 
per materially, intellectually and spirit- 



ually. As any other nation thrives in 
any of those respects, so do we thrive. 
We are richer because an Italian, with 
German knowledge, thought out wireless 
telegraphy, a Russian wrote some great 
novels. 

The militarist notion that one nation 
thrives at" the expense of another might 
appeal to a society of monkeys, with 
goods consisting simply of what the 
earth voluntarily produced ; but it has 
no sanction from intelligent human 
beings. 



Temples may rise and decay, cathe- 
drals be built and, sometimes, destroyed, 
creeds formulated and changed, doc- 
trines defended and assailed, sermons 
preached and hymns sung, and yet these 
are not religion ; they are but expressions 
of the religious instinct and the religious 
experiences of men, things, and creat- 
ures growing out of the life, the spirit, 
and the power of personal religion. 



The Dominant Impulse 

Out of the depths of the forest's impregnable 

thickets 
Sounded a or}- as of death's irrepressible 

struggle, — 
Suddenly hovered the culprits in range of 

our vision, 
Lo ! we beheld crafty Pduejay in chase of a 

Robin. 

"Beautiful feathers," we reasoned in puzzled 
amazement, 

'Trofiteth nothing compared with the motives 
behind them ; 

Even the birds of the air may display human 
nature. 

Crushing the weak and the helpless in ruth- 
less destruction." 

So in the world mighty nations comhat one 

another, 
Blinding their eyes to the right and the words 

of the ]\Iaster : 
'T)rotherly Love is the chord that should hind 

every nation." 
Let us, then, haste a \\'ORLD PEACE 
EEDERATION ! 

Caroline Louise Sumner. 




SEA-FOOD 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 

IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting once. 
Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is meant. A 
tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Watermelon Cocktail 

CUT a chilled watermelon in slices 
about three-fourths of an inch 
thick ; pick out the seeds, then with 
small cutter stamp out shapes, and use to 
fill long-stemmed glasses, sprinkle about 
a teaspoonful of sifted confectioner's 
sugar over the melon in each glass. 
Serve at the beginning of luncheon or 
dinner. 

Cream of Green Pea-and- Spinach 
Soup 

Cook one cup of green peas (a little 
old for use as a vegetable) until tender 
as possible, and the water is well evapor- 
ated, then press at once, while hot, 
through a sieve. Carefully wash, drain 
and cook half a peck of spinach, then 
press this through a sieve. Melt one- 
fourth a cup of butter; in it cook one- 
fourth a cup of flour, a teaspoonful of 



salt, and half a teaspoonful of black pep- 
per ; then add one quart of milk, and stir 
until boiling; stir in the spinach and pea 
puree, two cups of hot cream and more 
salt and pepper, if needed. Cut thin 
slices of bread, freed of crusts, in half- 
inch squares ; shake them in a little 
melted butter, and let brown delicately in 
the oven, shaking often to color evenly. 
Serve a spoonful of croutons on the top 
of each plate of soup. 

Clam Chowder 

Pour a cup of cold water over a quart 
of clams, pick over and rinse in the 
water, then drain ; strain all the liquid 
from the clams through double cheese- 
cloth, and heat to the boiling point. 
Separate the hard part of the clams from 
that which is softer, and chop the hard 
part fine.' Cut two or three ounces of 
fat salt pork in tiny bits, and let cook 
until the fat is drawn out ; add an onion, 



121 



122 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



cut in shreds, and stir and cook until yel- 
lowed and softened. Add one cup of 
boiling water, and let simmer ten or fif- 
teen minutes. Pare and slice enough 
potatoes to make one quart ; cover with 
boihng water, and let boil five minutes ; 
drain, rinse in cold water, and drain 
again. Put the potatoes and chopped 
clams in a saucepan, in alternate layers, 
strain over them the liquid from the 
onion and pork, pressing out all the 
liquid possible, then add three cups of 
boiling water, cover and let cook until 
the potatoes are tender; add the soft 
part of the clams, one quart of thin 
white sauce, made with milk (one-fourth 
cup, each, of butter and flour, one tea- 
spoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful 
of black pepper), and the strained clam 
juice. Let heat to the boiling point; 



butter, and let cook, in all, about twenty 
minutes. Serve from the baking dish. 

Halibut a la Aurore 

If you have no serving dish in which a 
fish may be cooked, flatten the edge of a 
tin cracker-box cover ; brush it thorough- 
ly with butter, and set it under the fish 
in the cooking dish. When the fish is 
done, lift the tin with a spatula and gen- 
tly push the fish from it to the serving 
dish. Have a slice cut two inches thick ; 
pour over it a little hot cream, let bake 
about half an hour in a moderate oven, 
basting three or four times with hot 
cream or the liquid in the pan. Dispose 
on a platter. Sift over it the yolks of 
two hard-cooked eggs, and set rings of 
the white of egg around the edge. Cut 
the eggs in slices, then remove the yolks 




HALIBUT, TURKISH STYLE 



draw to a cooler part of the range, beat 
in two or three tablespoonfuls of butter, 
in little bits, and serve without delay. 

Halibut, Turkish Style 

Peel a small, mild onion, cut in thin, 
even slices, and dispose on the bottom of 
an earthen or agate baking dish. Over 
the onion lay a slice of halibut, cut about 
one inch thick ; sprinkle over a slice of 
fat salt pork, cut in bits. Remove the 
skin from three tomatoes, cut the toma- 
toes in quarters, and set above the fish ; 
between the tomatoes dispose a green 
pepper, cut in slices half an inch wide. 
Set the fish on a grate in the oven to cook 
the onion and tomato. Before the shape 
of the vegetables is injured, remove to 
the floor of the oven, baste with melted 



for sifting. Use the liquid in the pan 
with milk or fish stock in making a white 
sauce to serve with the fish. 

Lobster Cutlets, with Lobster 
Mousse 

Select a lobster two pounds in weight. 
Remove the flesh from the tail and the 
large claws in whole pieces. Trim the 
ends from the pieces of flesh from the 
claws, and cut the flesh from the tail in 
slices of the same thickness. Coat these 
with aspic, repeatedly ; set a figure cut 
from a slice of trufile above each slice, 
then coat again with aspic to cover the 
decoration. Sifted coral, figures cut 
from white of egg or choice capers may 
be used instead of the trufiles. Pick all 
the flesh from the body bones, claws, 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



123 





1 


m 


m 


m 


^B 


IH 




i 




m 


m 


1^^^ 

m 

itf 


ia^^^^^M 













HALIBUT. A LA AURORE 



etc.; add the soft portions, pound in a 
mortar till smooth, then press through a 
sieve. There should be from three- 
fourths to a full cup of this puree. Cover 
the body bones and all the flesh that does 
not pass the sieve with cold water ; add 
a tablespoonful, each, of chopped carrot, 
mushroom peelings, onion, and parsley, 
and let simmer half an hour, then strain 
off the liquid. Soften one-fourth a 
package (one-half an ounce) of gelatine 
in one-fourth a cup of the broth, cooled 
for the purpose, and dissolve in one cup 
of the broth, heated to the boiling point ; 
add half a teaspoonful of salt, one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of paprika, and the 
puree; set into ice water, and stir until 
beginning to set. then fold in one cup of 
cream, beaten firm. Continue to cut and 
fold the mixture until it is firm enough 
to hold its shape, then use to fill the 
cleaned body and tail shell of the lobster. 
When ready to serve, set the shells con- 
taining the mousse on a serving dish. 
Garnish the top with the decorated slices 



of lobster, set heart leaves of lettuce at 
the sides of the dish, and serve French 
dressing in a dish apart. 

Irish Stew in Earthen Casserole 

Have two pounds of chops from the 
best end of a neck of mutton, trimmed 
of all fat. Have pared and sliced about 
two quarts of potatoes and six onions of 
medium size. Put a layer of potatoes 
and onions at the bottom of the casserole, 
and sprinkle with salt and pepper; above 
set a layer of meat, then vegetables, seas- 
oned as before, until all are used. Pour 
in boiling water or broth to come nearly 
to the top of the last layer. Cover and 
let cook gently on the top of the range 
or in the oven about three hours. 

Breaded Veal Cutlets 

Cut veal steak into pieces for serving, 
roll in cracker crumbs, then dip in an 
egg, beaten and mixed with half a cup of 
milk, and again roll or pat in cracker 
crumbs, to cover completely. Cook bits 




LOBSTER CUTLETS. WITH LOBSTER MOUSSE 



124 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of fat salt pork in an iron frying pan 
very slowly until the fat is well tried 
out ; in this cook the prepared veal until 
brown on one side, then turn to brown 
the other side. Use plenty of fat, and 
do not cook the pork or veal too fast ; the 
veal should be an amber shade when fin- 
ished ; remove the veal to a white-lined 
saucepan of such size that each piece of 
veal has plenty of room on the bottom of 
the dish ; pour in hot, well-seasoned to- 
mato puree (cooked tomatoes pressed 
through a sieve), and broth or water to 
surround the meat, but not to cover it ; 
cover the saucepan, and let cook, barely 
simmering, about one hour. Carefully 
cooked, the breading will not start from 
the veal. 



the eggs above the celery, and set the 
dish in the oven to cook the -eggs. 

Poached Eggs 

Have water boiling in a saucepan ; 
draw it to a cooler part of the range, and 
break the required number of eggs into 
it. Let cook, without allowing the water 
to boil, for several minutes, then slide a 
spatula under the eggs to loosen them 
from the pan ; turn the water over the 
yolks until the egg is as firm as desired, 
then remove from the water with a 
skimmer. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes and Bacon 

Bake either sweet potatoes or yams, 
after scrubbing them well. When nearly 




EGGS COOKED IN TOMATOES 



Creamed Celery, with Poached 
Eggs 

Cut cleaned celery stalks in half-inch 
slices, cover with boiling water, and let 
cook until the celer}^ is tender and the 
water is nearly evaporated. For about a 
cup and a half of cooked celery prepare 
a cup of cream sauce. Melt two table- 
spoonfuls of butter ; in it cook two table- 
spoonfuls of flour and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful, each, of salt and pepper; add 
one cup of rich milk, and stir and cook 
until boiling. Add the celery, and turn 
into a dish suitable for the table ; set two 
or three poached eggs above the celer}^ 
and send to the table at once ; or, break 



tender, remove from the oven on a fork, 
and carefully take off the skin; with two 
wooden toothpicks fasten a slice of bacon 
around each, set the potatoes in a baking 
pan. and return to the oven for about 
ten minutes, or until the bacon is cooked, 
when the potatoes should also be cooked. 

Stuffed Eggs for Picnics 

Cover eight or ten fresh eggs with boil- 
ing water ; let stand covered on the back 
of the range half an hour, then draw for- 
ward and heat to the boiling point; let 
boil one minute, drain, cover with cold 
water, and remove the shells. While the 
eggs are cooking, dip one or two chicken 
livers in hot bacon fat or melted butter, 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



125 




CREAMED CELERY, WITH POACHED EGGS 



and push on to a skewer; let cook over 
the coals until well done, then press 
through a sieve ; add two tablespoonf uls 
of cooked ham, chopped, pounded in a 
mortar and sifted, a few drops of onion 
juice, a tablespoon ful of fine-chopped 
truffles, the sifted yolks of the eggs, and 
salt and pepper to season. To secure 
the yolks, cut the eggs in halves, length- 
wise, and take out the yolks. Not all of 
the yolks will be needed, and part — about 
half — may be left for some other pur- 
pose. Mix all the ingredients together, 
adding HoUandaise, mayonnaise, or 
brown sauce as is needed to hold them 
together, and use to fill the whites ; then 
press the halves together, taking care to 
put together the original halves. Wrap 
each egg in waxed paper. 

Stuffed Tomato Salad 

Peel the required number of tomatoes, 
cut out a round place about the stem, and 



remove enough of the tomato to leave a 
hollow cup-shaped receptacle. Season 
the inside of the tomatoes with salt, and 
turn, open side downwards, on a plate. 
Let chill until ready to serve. Have 
ready (for six tomatoes) about one cup 
of thin slices of the tender inner stalks 
of celery and half a cup of anchovies, 
wiped free of oil and cut in small bits. 
Mix these with enough mayonnaise to 
hold them together, and use to fill the 
tomatoes. Set a coiled anchovy filet 
above the filling in each tomato, and gar- 
nish the dish with heart leaves of celery. 

Carameled Sweet Potatoes and 
Chestnuts 

Pare and cut in halves eight sweet 
potatoes, cover with boiling w^ater, and 
let cook until nearly done, then drain. 
Cook one cup of brown sugar in a sauce- 
pan until it melts and changes to cara- 
mel ; add half a cup of boiling water 




STUFFED TOMATO SALAD 



126 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



carefully (lest the steam burn the hand), 
and stir and cook until melted, and 
sHghtly thickened. Put the potatoes and 
cooked, blanched chestnuts in a baking 
dish in layers, with the syrup and bits of 
butter between ; sprinkle with salt, and 
let cook until very tender. Use the 
large Italian or French chestnuts. The 
new crop will not be in the market until 
next month. Shell and blanch the nuts, 
then let cook nearly tender in boiling 
water, when they are ready to add to the 
potatoes. 

Potato-and-Okra Salad 

Wash the okra. cut off and discard the 
ends, and cut the rest of the pods into 



and let stand in a cool place an hour or 
more before serving. Garnish with let- 
tuce and slices of chilled tomato. 

Creamed Corn Au Gratin 

^lelt three tablespoonfuls of butter ; in 
it cook two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
green or red pepper and one tablespoon- 
ful of chopped onion ; w^hen the vege- 
tables are softened a little, add three 
tablespoonfuls of flour and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and cook until frothy, 
then stir in one cup of milk, and stir un- 
til boihng; then add uncooked green- 
corn pulp to make of a good consistency. 
Turn into a baking dish. Mix two- 
thirds a cup of fine cracker crumbs with 




POTATO-AXD-OKRA SALAD 



half-inch pieces ; let cook in a white- 
lined dish, in boiling water, until tender ; 
skim out the okra, and reserve the liquid 
for soup. Let the okra drain on a soft 
cloth and become chilled. Cut cold, 
boiled potatoes into half-inch cubes ; take 
one-third as much okra as potato. Have 
ready, for a quart of potato, two sHces of 
onion, half a green pepper pod, a small 
cucumber pickle, and about six branches 
of parsley ; chop all together very fine. 
The potato and okra may be dressed to- 
gether or separately. Use for both, the 
chopped materials, two tablespoonfuls of 
capers, a teaspoonful and a half of salt, 
half a cup of olive oil, and three table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar. Mix thoroughly, 



one-fourth a cup of melted butter, and 
spread over the mixture. Let cook in 
the oven until the crumbs are browned 
and the mixture is bubbling on the edges. 
To secure the pulp, with a sharp knife, 
score the kernels in each row lengthwise 
of the cob, then with the back of the 
knife press out the pulp, leaving the 
hulls on the cob. 

Creamed Potatoes in Green Pep- 
pers Au Gratin 

Cut cold, boiled potatoes in small 
cubes, less than half an inch. Scald 
two slices of onion and a stalk of celery 
in a cup and a half of milk. Cream 
three tablespoonfuls of butter; beat into 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



127 




APRICOT BAVARIOSE, WITH SNOW- EGGS 



it three tablespoonfuls of flour, half a 
teaspoonful of salt, and a dash of pap- 
rika ; dilute with the hot milk, mix thor- 
oughly, and return to the double boiler; 
stir until the mixture thickens, then 
cover, and let cook ten minutes. Skim 
out the onion and celery, and add about 
a pint of the prepared potato-cubes. 
Have ready green peppers, from which 
the tops have been cut and the seeds 
taken to form receptacles. Fill these 
with the creamed potatoes, cover with 
three-fourths a cup of cracker crumbs 
mixed with one- fourth a cup of melted 
butter. Let cook in the oven until the 
crumbs are browned. If more conven- 
ient, cut the peppers in halves length- 
wise, and make two receptacles from one 
pepper. Serve with steak or chops. 

Apricot Bavariose, with Snow- 
Eggs 
Beat the white of one tgg dry, then 



gradually beat in two level tablespoon- 
fuls of granulated sugar. Have ready 
an agate frying pan, filled with water 
just below the boiling point. Dip two 
teaspoons in the water, and use to 
shape the meringue in ovals, pushing 
each as it is shaped from the spoon to 
the water ; turn occasionally, and let 
cook without allowing the water to boil 
about twenty minutes, then skim from 
the water to a cloth to drain ; then let 
chill. Use the chilled snow-eggs and 
canned apricots, cut in strips, to orna- 
ment or line a mold, holding about five 
cups. Push part of the apricots through 
a sieve. Take one cup and a quarter of 
this pulp and syrup from the can ; add 
one- fourth a package (half an ounce) of 
gelatine, softened in one-fourth a cup of 
cold water, and dissolved over the tea 
kettle, and half a cup of sugar ; stir un- 
til the sugar is dissolved, then set into a 
dish of ice and water, and stir until the 



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ICE CREAM, LILLIAN RUSSELL STYLE 



128 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




BLACKBERRY SHORTCAKES 



mixture begins to thicken, then fold in 
one cup and a half of cream, beaten firm. 
Continue to fold the mixture until it will 
hold its shape, then use to fill the mold. 
Snow eggs and slices of apricots may be 
set in place against the side of the mold 
as the cream mixture is added. Let 
chill in the refrigerator an hour or two, 
then unmold. Serve with the rest of the 
syrup from the can as a sauce. 

Blackberry Shortcakes 

Wash and drain about two baskets of 
choice, ripe blackberries ; sprinkle over 
them from a cup and a half to two cups 
and a half of granulated sugar ; mix, 
crushing somewhat, and set aside at the 
back of the r^^nge to warm a little, not to 
cook. Sift together two cups of pastry 
flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, and two 
rounding teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
With two knives cut in one-third a cup 
of shortening, then mix to a soft dough 



with milk. With the mixing knife turn 
the dough upon a floured board; turn it 
in the flour to become coated a little 
then knead slightly and roll into a sheet 
about three-fourths an inch thick, and 
cut into rounds. Bake about fifteen 
minutes. Pull the biscuits apart, and 
spread each half generously with 
creamed butter. Put berries between 
and above the halves of each biscuit, and 
serve at once. 

Peach Shortcake 

Prepare and bake a rich biscuit mix- 
ture as for strawberry shortcake. Spread 
one layer, well buttered, with pared 
peaches, sliced and mixed with sugar; 
set the second layer in place, and cover 
with more of the prepared peaches. Dis- 
pose halves of choice peaches around the 
edge, dredge them with sugar, then pipe 
a rosette of whipped cream in the hol- 
low of each half-peach. 




PEACH SHORTCAKE 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



129 



Blackberry Sponge 

Use bread that has been baked twenty- 
four hours. Cut in shces less than half 
an inch thick, trim off the crusts, and 
cut in cubes. Prepare a pint bowl of 
cubes. Cook a quart of blackberries 
slowly until the juice begins to flow, then 
add a cup or more of sugar, and let boil 
throughout. Press the berries through 
a sieve fine enough to exclude the seeds. 
Pack the cubes of bread into an earthen 
bowl, adding the hot juice to them as 
they are fitted in place. Fit in the cubes 
as close as possible and add to them all 
the juice they will absorb. When the 
bowl is filled, set it aside for some time 
in a cool place. When ready to serve, 
unmold on a dish. Serve with cream 
and sugar. 

Peach or Apple Betty 

Use soft crumbs from the center of a 
stale loaf of bread. Mix three cups of 
crumbs with half a cup of melted butter. 
Have ready three cups of sliced apples 
or peaches. Put the buttered crumbs 
and the fruit into a baking dish, in al- 
ternate layers, having the last layer of 
crumbs. Sprinkle each layer of fruit 
with a little sugar, also cinnamon or 
grated orange or lemon peel as desired. 
Bake about one hour. Let the dish be 
covered during the first half of the bak- 
ing, but remove, at the last, that the 
crumbs may brown. Serve hot with 
sugar and cream. 

Ice Cream, Lillian Russell 

Heat one quart of milk, one cup of 
double cream, one cup of sugar, and one 
tablespoonful of vanilla to a lukewarm 
temperature, not over 100° F. Add one 
Junket tablet, crushed and dissolved in a 
tablespoonful of cold water. Mix thor- 
oughly, and let stand undisturbed in a 
warm room until the mixture jellies ; 
then chill and freeze. Serve in halves 



of chilled muskmelon. Sprinkle pow- 
dered cinnamon over the top of the 
cream in each melon. 

Quinces Baked en Casserole 

Wash, core and pare the quinces, and 
dispose them in an earthen casserole ; fill 
the centers with sugar; add three table- 
spoonfuls of boihng water for each 
quince taken. Cover and let bake until 
tender. Serve with the syrup in the 
dish, cream and sugar. It will take at 
least an hour to cook the quinces, and it 
may take two. 

Filling for Pumpkin Pie with 
Honey 

Let the pumpkin steam and slowly dry 
out, then press through a sieve; if still 
watery, let stand to settle, then pour off 
all liquid. To one cup and a half of dry, 
sifted pumpkin, add half a teaspoonful, 
each, of salt and mace, one teaspoon- 
ful or more of ginger, three-fourths a 
cup of honey, one egg and the yolk of 
another, well beaten, one cup of sweet 
milk, and one-fourth a cup of cream. 
Mix thoroughly, and turn into a large 
plate lined with pastry with a standing 
fluted rim. Bake about forty-five min- 
utes. Serve, partly cooled, with cheese, 
if desired. 

Creole Soup 

Scald three cups of milk with half an 
onion and one cup of kornlet or fresh 
green-corn pulp ; stir in one-fourth a 
cup of flour mixed to a smooth batter 
with half a cup of milk, and continue to 
stir until the mixture thickens, then 
cover and let cook twenty minutes and 
strain. Cook sliced ripe tomatoes until 
the water is evaporated, then press 
through a fine sieve. When ready to 
serve the soup, stir one cup of the hot 
tomato puree into the hot milk prepara- 
tion and add about a teaspoonful of salt 
and half a teaspoonful of paprika. 



Menus for One Week in August 

TJic art of kcrfinc/ zucll is a matter of kccpiiif/ busy. — HrnnARD. 



Breakfast 

Blackberries 
. Eggs Cooked in Tomatoes 
Baking Powder Biscuit 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Chickens 

Green Corn Fritters 

Sweet Pickle Jelly 

Mashed Potatoes or Boiled Rice 

Celery Summer Squash 

Peach Sherbet 

Supper 

Scalloped Egg Plant 

(made ready in morning) 

Baking Powder Biscuit, Toasted 

Sliced Peaches 



Breakfast 

l)crries 

Swordhsh-and-Potato Cakes, Saute 

Bacon 

.Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Laml:) Stew, with Carrots and Onions 

Yeast Biscuit Celery 

Boiled Corn on the Cob 

Cored Apples 

(cooked in syrup with meringue) 

Honey Cookies 

Supper 

Corn Chowder 

Browned Crackers 

Stewed Crab Apples 

Biscuit (reheated) Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal 

Broiled Tomatoes on Toast 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken Gumbo 

(rice, okra, chicken) 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Peach Shortcake 

Supper 

Creamed Cornpulp, au Gratin 

Bread and Butter 

Raspberries 

Bran Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal 

Hash Broiled Tomatoes 

Ryemeal Muffins 

' Cofifee 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Midril's of Swiss Chard, Cream Sauce 

Corn-on-the-Cob 

Carameled Sweet Potatoes 

Stuffed Pears, with Rice 

Supper 

Shell Beans, Stewed 

Buttered Beets 

New Rye Bread and Butter 

Bran Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Bacon, Broiled in Oven 

Egg Plant, Sauted 

Coffee Cornmeal Muffins Cocoa 

Dinner 

Slices of Sword Fish. Baked 

(bread dressing between) 

Drawn Butter Sauce 

Boiled Potato Cubes, Parsley 

Cucumbers, French Dressing 

Shell Beans 
Green Apple Pie Cheese 

Supper 

Cream of Corn Soup, St. Germain 
(corn timbales in soup) 
Sliced Peaches Honey Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Plums 

French Omelet 

Hashed Brown Tomatoes 

Brcadcruml) Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Sea Trout, Baked with Tomato Puree 

Beets Stuffed, with Cucumbers on 

Curly Endive 

Kohl Ral)i, Drawn Butter Sauce 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Peach Pie 

Supper 

Cral:»meat, au Gratin 

Xew Pickles 

Dry Toast 

Baked Pears Grape Juice 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Cold Corned Beef, Sliced Thin 

Delmonico Potatoes 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Breakfast Corncake 

Coffee 



Dinner 

Chicken Fricassee 

Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Corn Custard 

Buttered Beets 

Steamed Blackberry Puddin; 

Blackberry Hard Sauce 

130 



Supper 

Succotash 

Piccalilli 

Bread and Butter 

Chocolate Crean^ Pie 



Menus for One Week in September 

"fs not the full-fed iiiaii the /v/r upon which the lirUity, even the intellectual strength, 
of a nation must depend/" 



Breakfast 

Melons Green Corn Oysters 

Ryemeal Biscuit (reheated) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Young Guinea Hens. Baked 

Rice Stuffing 

Melon or Peach Sweet Pickle 

Egg Plant. Crumbed and Fried 

Lettuce, Tomato-and-Onion Salad 

Apricot Bavarian Cream, with Snow Eggs 

Almond Bars Half Cups Coffee 

Supper 

Shell Beans, Stewed 

Bread and Butter Bran Cookies 

Cup Cakes. Chocolate Frosting 

Berries Tea 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Eggs Baked in Tomatoes, on Toast 

Sour-Cream Corn Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Veal Stew 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Buttered Beets 

Delicata 

Lemon Jelly, with Sliced Peaches 

Supper 

String Bean Salad. 

Garnish: Sliced Eggs 

A\'hole Wheat Bread and Butter 

Stewed Crabapples 

Cream Pie Tea 



< 

D 



Breakfast 

Thin Slices Fat Salt Pork 

(rolled in flour and fried) 

Fried Apples 

Potatoes Cooked in Milk 

White Cornmeal Muffins 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Chicken Gumbo 

(okra, rice, tomatoes, and remnants 

Guinea hen) 

Kohl Rabi. Mock Hollandaise Sauce 

Apple Dumplings 

Supper 

Green Corn, au Gratin 

Xew Rye Bread and Butter 

Baked Apples 

Bran Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

A^eal, Green Pepper-and-Potato Hash 

Broiled Bacon 

Sliced Tomatoes 

Bran Muffins 
Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hot Boiled Ham 

Cauliflower, Hollandaise Sauce 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Peach Sherbet 

Supper 

Mexican Rabbit 

Apple Sauce 
Orange Cookies 



Breakfast 

Sliced Peaches 

Yeast Rolls. Reheated 

French Omelet 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Sword Fish. Tomato Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes 

Cucumbers. French Dressing 

(with onion juice) 
Late Peas and String Beans. 

cooked together in cream 
Baked Apples, Thin Cream 

Supper 

Oyster Stew, or Green Corn Chowder 

Stewed Pears 

Bread and Butter 



Breakfast 

Berries 

Spanish Omelet 

Dry Toast 

German Coffee Cake 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Halibut, Turkish Style 

Mashed Potatoes 

Swiss Chard (leaves) 

Summer Squash, Stuffed, Baked 

Apple Pie 

Supper 

Clam Chowder, Crackers 

Sliced Peaches 

Ginger Cookies 



Dinner Breakfast 

Creamed Halibut, au Gratin Oyster Soup 

Mashed Potato Cakes (baked! Cold Boiled Ham, Sliced Thin 
Baking Powder Biscuit Potato Salad 

New Pickles Bread and Butter 

Coffee Cocoa Apricot Bavariose. with Snow Eggs 

131 



Supper 

Stuffed Tomatoes 
Bread and Butter 

Berries 
C(^()kie^ Tea 



How We Manage 
Bv E. s. E. 



MY husband is a New York City 
High School' teacher, with the 
maximum salary of $2650. We 
are the average American family of four. 
Our boy is ten years old and our girl is 
eight. We look upon our marriage part- 
nership as an economic success as we 
have two highly satisfactory children and 
have, each year, laid aside a substantial 
cash surplus. In the early years some of 
this was devoted to self improvement by 
paying the expenses of two European 
trips. After our children arrived this 
was laid aside as a fund with which to 
purchase a home when we should find 
exactly what we wanted in that Hne. 

Three years ago we purchased a 
$9500 house. Since that time we have 
paid $1500 toward the house and, as we 
needed more furniture for our larger 
quarters, we have added to our collec- 
tion of antique furniture and oriental 
rugs a few articles of sufficiently high 
quality as to make them an important 
asset. 

At first glance, perhaps, our house 
might be considered extravagant in pro- 
portion to our salary, but as time goes 
on we are proving that it is not extrava- 
gant. In the path of a coming subway 
it is a piece of real estate that promises 
an excellent investment. Already we 
could not purchase another house like it 
for less than $10,500. In fact our 
builder is ofifering houses like ours, but 
less desirably located, at that price. The 
ideal neighborhood, broad street, sunny 
rooms add to our health and happiness. 



My husband is a few minutes' walk 
from his school and saves carfare as 
well as the nervous energy wasted by a 
long car-ride. He has more time to 
spend in enjoying his home and in doing 
the health-giving, happy tasks required 
in keeping up the place. A house con- 
structed of brick and limestone requires 
very little in the line of repairs other 
than those which the ''handy man" can 
do himself. Our coal bill is the marvel 
of our friends who live in detached 
suburban houses and also of our neigh- 
bors who employ an Italian boy to run 
their furnaces for them. Our wall 
treatment, woodwork, etc., is exactly as 
we want it and will not need changing 
for a long time. The house was pur- 
chased in such an early stage of its con- 
struction that we were able to make 
many changes which add to its beauty 
and convenience. I am able to do my 
own housework with no more assistance 
than I had in an apartment. This I con- 
sider of especial advantage, not only be- 
cause of the money saved, but because I 
consider it of especial advantage in the 
training of my children. Their home 
tasks, to which they are held responsible, 
are far easier to provide in a servantless 
home. These responsibilities do much 
toward the building of character. 

Our two months' summer vacation is 
spent in a camp located on a charming 
lake. Here we row, swim, fish, tramp, 
read and study to our hearts' content. 
Incidentally we wear out our old clothes 
and cut down the cost of food supplies. 



132 



HOW WE MANAGE 



133 



Our camp site was purchased very cheap 
and much of the building of the camp 
was done by the "handy man" himself. 
We enjoy it ourselves during the months 
of July and August and rent it to friends 
for the month of September. The small 
rent more than provides for the expense 
of keeping it up. 

Fifty dollars a month, $600 a year, is 
set aside from our income as a saving 
fund. We might be forced to break into 
this by sickness or we might decide that 
sometime a vacation of travel was a wise 
investment for it. Usually, however, our 
budget, as we estimate it at the beginning 
of the year, is sufficiently large to pro- 
vide for extras in the line of emergen- 
cies. We consider the careful planning 
of our yearly budget an important part 
of good homemaking. 

Our budget for the year 1915 is as 
follows*: 

Savings $600.00 

Life insurance 220.00 

Fire insurance 5.00 

Burglar insurance 6.00 

Interest on mortgage 237.50 

(Months of July, August and 
Sept. only, $4750 at 5%) 

Taxes 150.00 

Water tax 9.00 

Telephone 35.00 

Coal (5 tons) 35.00 

Gas 10.00 

(All cooking, laundry, hot 
water heater) 

Electricity 15.00 

(Lighting, vacuum cleaner, flat- 
iron) 

Woman helper 34.00 

Man helper 5.00 

Papers and magazines 15.00 

Laundry 25.00 

Church 52.00 

Benevolences 25.00 

Clubs 30.00 

Husband's advance study 25.00 

Amusements 50.00 

Gifts 40.00 

Doctors, dentists and oculists. . 35.00 
Travel, including carfare 120.00 



Food 459.00 

Clothing 320.00 

(Including upkeep, pressing, 
glove-cleaning, etc.) 

House supplies 50.00 

Emergency fund 42.50 

Total $2,650.00 

During the summer vacation we have 
no help except in laundry work. During 
the rest of the year a woman helps me 
for a half-day a week. We pay her 
carfare but do not give her lunch. One 
week she washes and cleans the kitchen, 
and bathroom, and the alternating week 
she usually devotes entirely to cleaning. 
A man does some extra window wash- 
ing and takes out the ash barrels. The 
rest of the work is done entirely by the 
family. We use an electric vacuum 
cleaner for cleaning. I do the ironing 
with an electric flatiron and do not iron 
many articles at all. Once in two weeks 
we send a bundle of flat work to the 
laundry. The charge is $.25 and the 
things come back beautifully ironed. 
Our hot-water heater is connected to 
the furnace, an arrangement we pro- 
vided for when the house was built, so 
during the winter months we have an 
abundance of hot water without using 
the gas heater. 

All of the cooking is done in the 
house, with the exception of bread, an 
occasional cake, and occasionally canned 
articles and preserves. I make my own 
grape jelly and can a few of the straw- 
berries and peaches of which my family 
are particularly fond. For these the 
children delight in looking over the 
grapes and hulling the strawberries and 
I find that the result pays for the small 
amount of effort. We use very few 
canned vegetables in our home. We en- 
joy winter vegetables in winter and 
summer vegetables in summer and 
rarely attempt to reverse the seasons. 
We are exceedingly fond of fresh fruit 
and that with candy often furnishes our 
desserts. Our butter, eggs, apples, po- 
tatoes, hams, sausages, chickens and ma- 



134 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



pie syrup and honey are sent to us di- 
rectly from the country. I hunt the 
markets through for fruit and vegeta- 
ble bargains and watch the advertise- 
ments for bargains in groceries. There 
is no waste of food-supplies. Even the 
vegetable waters, which many house- 
wives throw in the sink, go into my 
soups. I find a fireless cooker a faith- 
ful servant. I plan our table at a dollar 
a day plus my husband's ^.2S lunch. 
The estimate as given provides amply 
for guests, for my husband eats his 
lunch away from home five days a 
week for 40 weeks. During the summer 
our fish, berries, cheap milk, fruits and 
vegetables make our cost of food very 
much smaller than $1.25 a day. 

Our cost of clothing is considerably 
smaller than that of most families who 
dress as well. Shoes are an expensive 
item. For instance, my shoes and the 
children's are seconds purchased at a 
factory where a high-grade of shoes is 
made. If carefully selected their de- 
fects do not in any way decrease their 
wear. I do much of the sewing for 
myself and daughter and find that a 
cheap tailor and a cheap dressmaker per- 
form wonders when carefully and tact- 
fully supervised. Our materials are al- 
ways of fine quality and we insist upon 
having them modeled along conservative 
lines. I watch for bargain sales in cloth- 
ing. However, I value my time and 
strength and consider a morning spent 
struggling at a bargain counter to pro- 
cure a bargain night-gown much harder 
work than making one quietly at home. 

My husband and I have long followed 
the rule of not making gifts to each 
other at Christmas and birthdays. In- 
stead, we make a gift to the establish- 
ment of something which we need or de- 
sire. In this way our supplies are re- 
newed, our furniture and pictures are 
purchased. We enjoy selecting them to- 
gether far more than being "surprised.'' 
Books are included in the gift allow- 
ance. We make use of the public library 
for books and much of our magazine 



reading. Our amusement allowance in- 
cludes the young woman who stays with 
the children, when we leave them eve- 
nings. While we economize in the line 
of amusements, we do not deprive our- 
selves of them. Instead, we patronize 
free public school lectures and concerts 
and see plays from cheap seats. Each 
year my husband does a little study 
along his chosen line and I never allow 
a year to pass without some sort of 
professional improvement in the line of 
lecture courses in domestic science, home 
management, and child training. Aside 
from this practical professional improve- 
ment, I consider some outside inspiration 
a necessity to the woman who wishes 
to be the best wife and mother possible. 
Church work, membership in a lecture 
and concert institute, college club, 
mother's club, housewives' league are 
among my outside interests. Of course, 
it takes careful planning, but that is what 
makes home making such a fascinating 
profession. 

No woman is a household drudge who 
would not be a drudge at anything else 
she might undertake. I have no sympa- 
thy for the woman who calls it a career 
to sew on buttons in a factory, but who 
does not think it a career to sew on her 
own little boy's buttons in her own home. 
As for dish-washing, which is the daily 
bugbear to many women who do their 
own housework, why is it not nearly as 
dignified to wash dishes in one's home 
as it is for a physician to sterilize his 
instruments? The New York teacher- 
mother problem, which figures so largely 
in the newspapers, has never entered our 
home. When I use my mind and 
strength to save a dollar, I feel that it 
adds quite as much to the family im 
come as if I earned it. The earning 
positions are ever crowded, but the con- 
serving hcmemakers grow, in like pro- 
portion, fewer. Instead of following the 
rule of our grandmothers, to think Ix'- 
fore one spends, the average woman 
spends first and then thinks afterward. 
I might duplicate my husband's salary 



HOW WE MANAGE 



135 



as a teacher, thanks to the equal pay sys- 
tem, but, after all, money can't make a 
home. 

I believe in making work into play- 
wherever possible and some of our fam- 
ily games do much to simplify the house- 
work in our home as well as to give a 
little individuality to our home atmos- 
phere. Our tray breakfast game is 
played like this : Each member of the 
family owns a light, inexpensive tray. 
While I am preparing the breakfast, 
what the fireless cooker has left for me 
to prepare, my husl:)and and the chil- 
dren set their own trays with the china 
and silver they will require. The fire- 
less cooker does so much of the w^ork 
that there is very little left for me to 
do, so in a few minutes I give the sig- 
nal for them to march into the kitchen 
with their trays. I serve the breakfast 
upon the trays and then we all march 
back to the dining room to eat our break- 
fast. At luncheon, when the children 
and I eat alone, we use the trays again, 
but the children's luncheon hour is so 
short that their trays are arranged ready 
for them when they get home from 
school. At the end of our breakfast, 
each member of the family carries his 
tray to the kitchen and, when the dishes 
are washed and dried on the dish rack, 
I put them back on the trays ready for 
the children, so that while they are wash- 
ing their faces and hands I can serve 
their luncheon. They carry their trays 
to the table themselves and carry them 
back to the kitchen when they are 
through. This tray game enables us to 
use the same tablecloth much longer than 
is done in most households where there 
are children. 

Another of our household games is 
our after-breakfast laundry game. My 
husband does not play this with us. I 
play his part for him. When each mem- 
ber of the family comes downstairs in 
the morning, he throws open his own bed 
to air and picks up the soiled underwear 
of the day before. These are carried to 



the basement and after breakfast the 
children and I, each, wash out our own 
and hang them on the line. If we are 
in need of other clean clothes, 1 add 
whatever is needed to my part of the 
game. This is the game which greatly 
reduces our laundry bills. The children 
are very fond of playing in water and 
this turns fun into aprofitableoccupation. 

In the business of homemaking, as in 
any other business, it is necessary that 
all the members of the firm do their part, 
that waste shall be eliminated, that the 
business manager shall study the mar- 
kets, read the papers, and in all ways be 
alive to every available means of improv- 
ing her business, and it is, also, neces- 
sary that finances shall be arranged on a 
business partnership basis. We have 
found a joint checking account a good 
solution of the problem. Many of our 
bills are always paid by check, and at the 
l)eginning of the month, when my hus- 
band receives his monthly check, we each 
make an estimate of the amount of cash 
we will probably require to carry us 
through the month. By having a joint 
account, if for any reason I require 
money, I can draw a check without ask- 
ing my husband for more money in the 
time-honored fashion. 

In the good old days the women spun 
and wove their clothing and raised and 
manufactured their food-supplies. They 
literally ''traded" on the rare occasions, 
when they went to the stores, exchang- 
ing some commodity for desired articles. 
Thus there was little need for them to 
handle money. They were partners in 
the firm without it. As conditions have 
changed, men have been slow to recog- 
nize the need of treating their wives as 
business partners in the handling of the 
family funds. Women have been slow 
to adapt themselves to changed condi- 
tions, but men have been slower. This 
lack of financial partnership I believe to 
be one of the chief reasons why women 
fail to conduct their homes in an effi- 
cient, business-like fashion. 



A Guide to Laundry Work 

Third Paper 
By JNIary D. Chambers 



Fme Lingerie 

DELICATE lingerie waists, the 
fine dresses of infants, and all 
thin, sheer fabrics, should be 
washed by themselves in warm suds 
made of mild soap and rain water, or a 
naturally very soft water. The gar- 
ments should be swished up and down 
and gently kneaded until cleansed. If 
they are so soiled as to need rubbing, 
they may be laid between towels and the 
tow^els rubbed wath the hands, or the 
soiled parts may be laid over a white 
cloth and gently rubbed on this founda- 
tion with the lingers and in the direction 
of the warp threads, lest the weave be 
"pulled." Should boiling be necessar}^ 
the fine garments should be enclosed in 
a linen bag, or a clean pillow-slip, put on 
in cold w^ater, and removed when this 
comes to a boil. The only allow^able de- 
tergent, besides a mild soap, for either 
washing or boiling fine things, is a little 
borax. Rinsing should be very thor- 
oughly done, especially in the case of 
infants' clothing, lest a trace of alkali 
be left to irritate the delicate skin. 
Bluing is preferably omitted, or only a 
trace used. Fine things are apt to be 
injured if hung on the line, and are best 
dried on the ground or on a sheet 
stretched on the ground. 

Lavender scented water is sometimes 
used for the last rinsing of fine night- 
gowns, infants' wxar, thin dresses, etc. 

Clear- Starching 

The name clear-starching is given to 
the process of starching thin, transpar- 
ent materials in such a w^ay that there 
will be no clogging of the meshes of the 
w^eave, no opacity due to the coating of 
the threads as the starch dries, and no 
loss of transparency resulting from the 



use of starch as a stiffening agent. Clear 
starch may be made as follows : 

L Dilute one-half cup of thick 
starch with one cjuart of water; buil un- 
til clear, strain, and use hot. 

2. Blend one teaspoon of laundry 
starch with a little cold w^ater, cook for 
half an hour in one quart of boiling 
water, strain, and use hot. 

3. Substitute one-quarter cup of w^ell 
washed rice for the laundry starch in 2, 
and cook as directed. Strain, and dilute 
wdth one quart more of boiling water. 

Note. — Very thin, open weaves should 
be clapped between the hands after 
starching, to clear the meshes of the 
fabric. 

To Increase the Stiffness in Clear- 
starching. — Add from one teaspoonful 
to one tablespoonful of pow'dered gum 
arabic, dissolved in one-half cup of boil- 
ing water, to any of the recipes given. 
Only the purest gum arabic, which is al- 
most colorless, should be used. 

One-half to one tablespoonful of 
borax used in the same way will some- 
what increase the "body" of the starch, 
and will give greater permanency to its 
stiffening quality. 

Chiffons 

These sheer, delicate fabrics may be 
cleansed by sousing them in alcohol to 
which has been added a little pure soap 
solution. They should be rinsed in clear 
alcohol, and spread flat, without wring- 
ing, on a linen or other absorbent cloth 
until dry. Chiffon should dry without 
wrinkling, but, if pressing is necessary, 
this may be done on the w^rong side wath 
a slishtlv heated iron. Chiffon can also 
be cleansed in a suds made of rain water 
and castile soap, rinsed, and put through 
the wringer between folded towels. 



136 



A GUIDE TO LAUXDRY WORK 



137 



Colored Embroideries (Silk) 

Soak for fifteen or twenty minutes in 
cold water, wash in a nearly cold suds 
made from Castile soap, swishing about 
in the water, and kneading gently. Rinse 
in fresh cold water, place between cloths, 
and put through wringer with the rollers 
rather tight. Never let the goods stand 
in the water while washing, and have the 
rinsing water ready before wringing 
from the wash water, lest the colors may 
run while standing. Colored embroider- 
ies should be washed quickly, and one 
piece at a time. 

To iron, lay wrong side up, over two 
or three thicknesses of flannel, and iron 
the embroidered parts until thoroughly 
dry. Then turn on the right side, and 
with a small iron go over the plain parts. 

Crewel Work (Wool) 

Wash in bran water to which a little 
Castile soap solution has been added. 
Rinse at once in salt and water. Wring, 
iron, etc., as for Silk Embroideries. 

Raised Embroidery 

If white, this may be washed accord- 
ing to the directions for washing the 
goods which it decorates. If colored, 
follow the directions for colored clothes, 
or for silk or wool, if the work is done in 
this material. Raised embroidery should 
be ironed on a specially padded board, 
and with a well-pointed iron that can be 
pushed into the interstices. The fine 
wrinkles that are apt to form between 
the lines of the design should be 
smoothed out with the point of the iron. 
Complete the work by ironing on the 
right side, as directed for Silk Embroid- 
eries. 

Embroidered Doileys, Etc. 

Square doileys, centerpieces, etc., 
should be ironed in the direction of the 
warp threads — to keep them straight — 
first on the wrong side and all over, then 



on the right side to give smoothness. 
Eor round or oval pieces, the ironing 
should be begun at the center, pressing 
outwards along the warp threads, to 
avoid puffiness in the middle. Table 
scarves or other long, narrow pieces 
should be ironed longwise first, to keep 
the edges straight, then smoothed on the 
unembroidered parts on the right side in 
the direction of the warp. 

Note. — Embroidered articles should 
be ironed before they are quite dry, or 
wrung out of hot water to give them an 
all-over, even dampness. 

Embroidery must be ironed until per- 
fectly dry, otherwise the dampness wall 
be absorbed by the adjacent parts, and 
they will crinkle. 

Drawn- Work 

Tliis is more difficult for the inexperi- 
enced ironer than any other kind of dec- 
orative work, since it is exceedingly apt 
to shrink. After dampening, it must be 
patiently stretched and pulled into shape 
on the ironing table, and modelled with 
the iron into its original form. Corners 
require great care to get them square and 
true, and re-dampening of faulty places 
must be repeated as often as necessary, 
until every part of the article lies 
straight and even. 

Smocking 

A smocked garment has the plain part 
ironed first, then a warm iron with an 
adjustable handle should have the handle 
removed, the iron placed face up on a 
stand on the table, and the smocked part, 
slightly dampened, pressed rather firmly 
w^hile moving it slowly over the heated 
surface until it is dry. 

Puffing 

Pufiing is doubled lengthwise and 
ironed wath a small, pointed iron w^ell 
into the gathers. It is then opened, 
the crease re-dampened, and smoothed 
out with the point of the iron. 



•uccess 



By Elizabeth King Maurer 



NO, ma'am, 1 puts no chemicals in 
the water. I wash this beau- 
tiful lace careful and clean." 
She looked at me with, frank, honest 
eyes. 

"You see what work I have done," 
and she pointed to hand embroideries, 
delicate flimsy laces, thin silks. All 
were perfectly laundered. So I left the 
Venetian collar. When I came for it 
after a few days, there it lay in her little 
case, all its delicate beauty brought out 
by her careful hand. Her face flushed 
with pride at my praise. 

*'I left that always in the window," 
she remarked with a shrewd twinkle in 
her eyes. "It is good advertisement, so 
I charge you less for washing it," she 
would say in her friendly broken Eng- 
lish. 

It was the beginning of a great friend- 
ship between us. I used to drop into 
her little shop with my package of 
things too precious to trust to the care- 
less public laundries. 

"Oh, that waist it is not quite done. 
I washed it again so to make it perfect. 
You please to remain while I finish the 
cuffs?" So I would linger in the little 
back room and watch her, her white hair 
fluffed around her rosy face. Each time 
there seemed to be some reason why I 
should stay a little while. Each time I 
heard a little more of her story. 

"Think of it, ma'am, I am fifty-five 
years old and just getting started again 
in life." Her husband, a tailor, had 
drowned, just when all would have gone 
well with them. W-hen all claims were 
settled, she was nearly penniless. Then 
she rented this tiny building which had 
once been a hand laundry. It was, how- 
ever, haunted with a ghost hard to lay. 
For a large laundry nearl^y, notorious 
for its careless work, had had its ofiice 
there for a time after the previous laun- 
dress had gone away. 



"At first, no one came. I could not 
understand why. I waited and waited. 3 
The first week I took in only ninety-two 
cents. One day a lady came with some 
pretty clothes, but said she would leave 
them there some weeks till she came 
back from her vacation. So I got no 
pay, then. But I did them up nicely and 
put them in the window. At once others 
brought their clothes. So little by httle 
I lived down the bad name of that big 
laundry. I did my best with every little 
thing I got to do. And I lived on as little 
as I could. When I could lay by a little, 
I bought new tubs, then a wringer, so I 
did not have to hurt my wrists. Then 
these flatirons, ah, what I can do with 
these flatirons !" And she patted them 
almost lovingly. 

"That first week must have been 
pretty hard for you," I said. She went 
to a tiny closet, took down her handbag 
and from out of a bit of paper she 
proudly unrolled a half-dollar. 

"The first money I earned," she said, 
her eyes shining with great hope and in- 
spiration. "To think that I, after all 
my reverses, and such an old woman as 
I am, could earn money again, I could 
scarcely believe it. I would starve 
rather than part with that fifty-cent 
piece." It was the embodiment of her 
regained hopes, her new life. 

"I did not know you did curtains," I 
remarked to her one day, as I saw a pair 
hanging in the window. She laughed 
joyously. 

"You have not been here for a month. 
A man came to me six weeks ago and 
wanted to put those curtains up and give 
me a commission on all I sold. I didn't 
take any orders yet, but I get twenty- 
four pair of curtains to wash already." 
Her glee was contagious. 

Through that first winter. I heard of 
a growing business, some new triumph 
each time. When I left for the summer. 



I 



138 



SUCCESS 



139 



sue had permanently one woman to help 
her and often hired two or three by the 
day. In thq fall I came to her with my 
suit case of delicate waists, laces, lin- 
gerie, anything and everything I could 
not trust to the large laundry. I found 
her as usual at the ironing board, her 
face glowing with all the news she had 
to tell me, how business had grown, how 
the hotter the weather, the more clothes 
she had to wash and iron, how she had 
worked far up into the night to fill her 
orders promptly and do her work well. 
She tiptoed into the front room, beckon- 
ing me to the farthest corner. Looking 
covertly around to see if her "help" 
were listening, she whispered to me : 
"Xow I have been in business sixteen 
months and I have cleared $1000.00." 

It really was a thunderbolt. This 
tiny, white-haired woman, over half a 
century old, starting a business in a 
strange town, without capital, indeed 
without living expenses, in a building in 
bad repute, had in sixteen months built 
up an honorable trade which had netted 
her, besides improvements and supplies, 
a thousand dollars. 

How had she done it ? You who have 
failed, you who have succeeded with too 
high a price for your success, learn of 
her stock in trade, that is to say, her 
ideals, and how consistently she stood 
by them and worked for them until her 
work brought adequate returns in dol- 
lars and cents. 

She had the requisites for real suc- 
cess. In the first place, she loved her 
work. Clean things, well ironed, were 
a joy to her. 

Second, her trade to her was an art :• 
perfection was her work-a-day motto. 
She learned every possible method of 
taking out all sorts of stains without in- 
juring the cloth. She aimed to know 
ever>'thing about her work. You could 
trust her with everything, even the most 
delicate washable fabric. A baptism 
dress, fifty years old, yellow, stained 
and worn, was perfectlv cleaned. She 
had read nothing on efificiency, yet you 



could not find a better exponent of that 
present-day slogan of the business 
world. 

Third, she has held fast to her ideals 
in face of chance and temptation to go 
the way of countless so-called hand 
laundries. 1 asked her, now that she 
was getting more prosperous, why she 
didn't rent a larger building and have 
delivery boys. She had thought of that. 

•'But if I do that, then I have aU the 
time trouble with them. They lose the 
laundry ; they make mistakes. I have 
to pay for horse and wagon ; no, my 
customers pay, for I have to charge 
more. I have to sit all day checking 
up those bundles and scolding those 
boys. No, I do not do that. I maybe 
hire women to do just the things I train 
them to do, but I do always the finest 
things, wash and iron, too. People will 
bring it to me ; I am no longer afraid. 
I do my best, so they need me. I can 
learn all things ; they ask me any stain, 
I take it out and do no hurt," And she 
laughed the spontaneous joy of a young 
girl. 

'T, an old woman, I make money, I 
lay by some for the rainy day." 

Added to these indispensable qualities, 
she had also a careful, economical head 
for the management of her business. 
x\nother great asset is her faith in her- 
self ;. she knows when her work is up 
to the very high standard she has set 
for herself. Just two doors from the 
largest and most advertised laundry in 
the city is her little shop. You drop in 
with your bundle under your arm and in 
a few days you return for it. She is on 
the edge of the fashionable residence 
section and her wealthy patrons are 
treated no differently than the humblest. 
It is a small business, just as much as 
she can handle well. It has been built 
up rapidly, without advertising, through 
merit alone, and now, after less than a 
year and a half, it pays very well. 

In her work she has a chance to exer- 
cise all her wits and her skill ; she will 
never become the cog in a giant imper- 



140 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



soiial vvliecl that each one of the work- 
ers in the big laundry must be. Her 
children are grown men and women ; 
they do not need her, neither could they 
afford to have her support shifted upon 



their shoulders. Her significant mc 
sage to grejit numbers of women is that 
a woman past the half -century mark can 
work out her own salvation through a 
work worthy of a dignified citizen. 



The Blue Sky 

By Isabel Study 



IT was an ordinary cottage in a small 
town, so plain — without veranda or 
jutting porch — that one would pass 
it, giving it no thought, but for the yard. 
It was large and grassy and sloped down 
to the narrow street. Two large apple 
trees loaded with beautiful blossoms 
were its sole adornments. No, one thing 
more. A young girl lay stretched at 
full length under one of the trees. She 
made a pretty picture, her hands clasped 
under her head for a pillow. Not even 
her heavy shoes and dark print dress 
could mar the prettiness of it all. 

A tired, worn \voman appeared in the 
doorway, mop in hand. 

*'Eliza," she called. There was a 
slight movement of the figure under the 
tree, but no reply. 

"Eliza Holman, be you coming in here 
to help me or no?" 

This time the blue print gown moved, 
and a muttered "No, I hain't," came 
from under the apple tree. 

A surprised look crossed the face of 
the tired woman. Still holding the mop, 
she stepped down and crossed the yard 
to where the girl lay. 

"Eliza," said the woman in a trembly, 
childlike voice. "Did I hear right? 
Did you tell your old mother you 
wouldn't help with the work?" 

The girl rose to a sitting posture and, 
glancing up at the worn w^oman, said, 
"Oh, mother, wasn't you ever young? 
I am so sick of work, work all day long. 
Is life all work and no rest? Mother, 
come down on the green grass a bit. Do, 
mother," she continued, pulling her 



mother's dress. "Just a minute, motliLi 
Then 1 will go in and help you. That 
a dear. Come, now. I w^ant you to sec 
how different the blue sky is when you 
look at it this way." 

The old woman wavered, but at 
last, overcome by the pretty, pleadhig 
face, dropped the mop and sank to her 
knees, and was immediately pulled over 
on the grass by the young girl. 

Once on the grass, she stretched hei 
weary limbs and sighed with satisfac- 
tion. 

The girl threw one arm over her, em- 
bracing her. "Oh, mother, say, now, 
isn't this the very nicest way to rest? 
Now, mother, tell me, you was young 
once ; didn't you ever tire of work, and 
long to get away from it?" 

The woman lay silent a moment. "I 
guess, perhaps, I did, Eliza," she said. 
"I remember once when mother had a 
lot of work to do — and mother was a 
good one to hunt up jobs of work for 
us." 

"I'll warrant you granny was a good 
one for that, mother," said the girl. 

"W'ell, as I was saying, once, when 
there was everything to do, I had a novel 
hid away upstairs." 

Here the girl rose on her arm excited- 
ly. "Oh. mother, did you? Where did 
you get it?" 

"It was a novel called 'Rob Roy.' He 
was a h\^ man who could whip anv one, 
and he carried off cattle for his living. 
I got it of Mary Jane Smith. She got 
it of Amanda Allen, and she eot it at a 
book store in the city. Of course, 



THE HUMBLE VISION 



141 



mother didn't know I had a novel. 
Them days, Eliza, a novel was an in- 
strument of the devil. It was almost 
wicked to speak of one." 

"Mother," said the girl, (here she 
blushed prettily) ''John told me the 
other day that a novel was only a well- 
told tale. That is, when it is well told." 

"Well," said the woman, "be that as 
it may, it's name was enough them days. 
No woman of respectability ever let her 
daughters touch one, let alone read one. 
I was wild to finish the book, and so I 
slipped away upstairs, took the book and 
went under the best bed, and nearly 
strained my eyes out reading in the dark. 

"^lother," screamed the girl with de- 



light, 'T didn't think you had it in 
you." And with a loud laugh the girl 
again embraced the tired woman. 

"There, now, Eliza, I have told you 
the meanest thing I ever did." And, 
rising from the grass, she picked up the 
mop. 

The girl sprang to her feet, took the 
mop, and, with one arm round her 
mother, they went over the green yard 
and entered the house. 

Later in the day, when both were 
scouring the tin milk pans, the girl 
leaned over, looked roguishly into the 
mother's face, and said, "We were pret- 
ty bad wdien we were young, weren't we, 
mother ?" 



The Humble Vision 

T never see a shadow 

But I know a sunbeam's near ; 
I've always found near sorrow 

Was a merry bit of cheer. 

Life is not a case of having, 

It's a case of seeing true; 
Some are ever finding storm clouds 

Where God knows He has the blue. 

Just where ends a song in silence, 

Not a one can truly say ; 
It's the same with joy and sorrow — 

They mingle in each day. 

Not for fame or golden riches, 

Let us pray, nor gift of song, 
But for sight to see life's values 

Just where they belong. 

Arthur Wallace Peach. 




An Outing and Inning ! 

By Carolyn JNlunser 



MISS Katherine Melbrook, a suf- 
fragist lecturer in the Eastern 
States, dislikes letters and let- 
ter-writing. She keeps in touch with 
her two nieces, Katherine and Norene 
Semkerk, teachers in Ohio, by telegraph. 
June 21, 1915, 
Toledo, Ohio. 
Dear Aunt Katherine — Both well. 
Jack horrid. Engagement ofif. Teach 
next year. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Portland, Me. 
Prepaid. 

June 25, 1915. 
Toledo, Ohio. 
Norene and I enroute Panama Ex- 
position. Great expectations ! 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Portland, Me. 
Collect. 

June 27, 1915. 

Chicago, 111. 
Visited Uncle Jim today. Auto acci- 
dent, no one hurt. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Portland, Me. 
Prepaid. 

June 29, 1915. 
St. Louis, Mo. 
Making fine acquaintances. Met your 
friend Mr. Selleck. A gentleman ! 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 
Boston, Mass. 

June 30, 1915. 
Topeka, Kansas. 
Delayed here eight hours by freight 
wreck. Slight tornado for variety. Mr. 
S. man of the hour. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook. 
Boston, Mass. 



July 1, 1915. ' 

Salina, Kansas. 
Just discovered Jack, in charge of 
seven school boys, on this train. Em- 
barrassing situation ! An annoying ob- 
stacle ! 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Woburn, Mass. 
Prepaid. 

July 2, 1915. 
Cheyenne, W'yoming. 
Sue, her mother and four friends join 
us here from Omaha. One a cousin to 
Obstacle ! 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Aliss Katherine Melbrook, 

Lynn, Mass. 
Prepaid. 

July 4, 1915. 
Granger, Wyoming. 
The inevitable happened ! All parties 
formally introduced as genuine strang- 
ers. Admired Obstacle's composure. 

' Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook. 

Lynn, Mass. 
Prepaid. 

July 5, 1915. 
Yellowstone Park, \\'yoming. 
Sue's mother insists Obstacle and 
protegees join our party through park. 
Mr. S. also included. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Lynn, A^ass. 
Prepaid. 

July 6, 1915. 
Fountain Hotel. Yellowstone Park. 
First day out by stage trip. Mam- 
moth Paint Pots wonderful! Realiza- 
tion surpasses anticipation ! 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Lynn, Mass. 
Prepaid. 
142 



MY WAY 



143 



July 7, 1915. 
Old Faithful Inn, Yellowstone Park. 
This superb park is God's master- 
piece ! It inspires faith and fulfills one's 
dreams of grandeur ! Only one Obstacle 
to happiness. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To ]\Iiss Katherine Melbrook, 

Lowell, Mass. 
Prepaid. 

July 9, 1915. 
New Grand Canyon Hotel, 
Yellowstone Park, Wyoming. 
Fell, nearly killed, sprained ankle. 
Obstacle proved handy. Don't worry ! 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Lowell, Mass. 
Collect. 

July 11, 1915. 
New Grand Canyon Hotel, 
Yellowstone Park, WVoming. 
Ankle better. Enjoying scenery from 
verandas while others take in side trips. 
Always have special company. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 

Lowell, Mass. 
Prepaid. 

July 12, 1915. 
New Grand Canyon Hotel, 
Yellowstone Park, Wyoming. 
Earthquake for variety. Scared only. 
Reconciliation. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook. 
Hartford, Conn. 



July 13, 1915. 
Ogden, Utah. 
En route again. Scenery grand. 
Better. Use crutch. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine ^lelbrook, 
Hartford, Conn. 

July 15, 1915. 
Sacramento, Cal. 
Almost there. Obstacle a necessity. 
I was wrong. Norene and ^Ir. S. mu- 
tually attentive. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Aliss Katherine ^lelbrook, 
Hartford, Conn. 

July 16, 1915. 
Sacramento, Cal. 
Exposition grand ! Same party as at 
Yellowstone. Sightseeing continually. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Aliss Katherine Melbrook. 
Hartford, Conn. 

July 17, 1915. 
Sacramento, Cal. 
Send blessing. Have changed my 
mind. My outing. Jack's inning! He's 
all right. 

Katherine Semkerk. 
To Miss Katherine Melbrook, 
Hartford, Conn. 

July 18, 1915. 
Sacramento, Cal. 
Resigned position. We teach Elkhorn 
Seminary next year, or Jack does. 
Bless the boys ! Jack was the Obstacle 
you know. 

Katherine Semkerk. 



My Way 



Mayhap it stretches very far, 
Mayhap it winds from star to star ; 
Mayhap through worlds as yet unformed 

Its never-ending journey runs. 
Through workls that now are whirling wraith.' 

Of formless mists between the suns. 
I go — beyond my widest ken — 
Rut shall not pass this way again. 

So, as I go and cannot stav 



And never more shall pass this way, 
I hope to sow the way with deeds 
\\'hose seed shall bloom like May-time meads, 
And flood my onward path with words 
That thrill the day like singing birds ; 
That other travelers following on 

May find a gleam and not a gloom, • 
May find their path in pleasant way, 

A trail of music and of bloom. 

Sam Walter Foss. 




Home Ideas 

and 
iEcONOMIEvSSr 





S^^ 



mrrav 



Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



A Savory Way to Cook Chicken 

OFTEN it is of advantage to know 
just how to cook a chicken in such 
a way that it will be both tender and 
appetizing. The following has been 
found very successful even in the case 
of hens weighing seven or eight pounds. 
Un joint the fowl, wash it in cold 
water and dry thoroughly, then season 
with pepper and salt, roll in flour, 
then fry in hot fat until it is brown on 
both sides. Then, wdien brown as re- 
quired, put it in a dripping pan and 
sprinkle over it half a cup of celery ; cut 
into small pieces and about two table- 
spoonfuls of minced onion. Then cover 
with hot water, place another pan over 
it, set it in the oven and let bake 
slowly until tender. If it is an old 
chicken, you may have to cover it with 
water the second time. It may be gar- 
nished with celery or lettuce leaves. The 
gravy thus produced is excellent. 

MRS. G. F. p. 
* * * 

A Few Summer Canapes and 
Hors-D'Oeuvres 

CANAPES or hors-d'oeuvres of 
some sort seem to be necessary to 
the modern dinner, especially in warm 
weather when the soups are not used or 
cared for as they are in the winter. The 
canapes may be made at home in various 
ways to have them good, while the rel- 
ishes come in cans and bottles which 
make them very easy to prepare and 
serve. 



The toast, round or square, on which 
to serve the canape seems to remain the 
same whether the canape is hot or cold, 
though for summer use it is best to 
smear lightly the toast with olive oil in 
place of butter, for the oil keeps it from 
drying at the edges better than the butter 
and there is not enough used to, in any 
way, afifect the flavor of the canape, 
Large firm slices of tomatoes may be 
used in place of the toast or a slice of 
fried apple or egg-plant is sometimes 
used. 

The relishes, of course, are served by 
themselves; if served individually, wa- 
fers, cheese sticks, or pastry pipes are 
often ofifered with them. If they are 
served from a relish dish, each person 
choosing what he fancies, the small din- 
ner roll is usually sufficient and is placed 
beside each plate. 

Egg Canapes. — Take as many small 
hard-boiled eggs as are needed, allowing 
one to a canape ; slice the whites in thin 
slices and lay on the toast round. Re- 
move skin and bone from two sardines, 
break them up with a fork and add the 
yolk of the &gg put through a ricer, juice 
of half a small onion and a tablespoon ful 
of Worcestershire sauce. Spread the 
mixture on top of the egg-rings ; add a 
dash of paprika and place an olive 
stuffed with an almond in the center. 

Shrimp Canapes. — Break up as many 
fresh-boiled shrimp as are needed with, 
a silver fork ; let them marinate in 
French dressing to which a little onion 
juice has been added, for twenty min- 
utes; drain and add a tablespoon ful of 



144 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



145 



chopped water cress and enough "Maid 
in America" sauce to moisten the mix- 
ture. In place of butter or oil, spread 
the toast-round lightly with Pate de Foie 
Gras (allow a tablespoonful of the mix- 
ture to each portion), and garnish with a 
tiny ear of French corn. 

Herring Roe Canapes. — Drain the 
herring roes from the oil in which they 
are canned, then let them marinate in 
French dressing for a half-hour; then 
drain and add pepper, salt, a teaspoonful 
of chopped pepper and a teaspoonful of 
well-drained, fried bread crumbs ; cut the 
roes fine and use a tablespoonful of the 
mixture on each toast-round, placing a 
teaspoonful of heavy mayonnaise on top 
of each, and garnishing with a spray of 
water cress across the top. 

Vegetable Canapes. — Drain a small 
bottle of vegetable Macedoine ; let mari- 
nate in French dressing for twenty min- 
utes; drain, add a teaspoonful of 
chopped water cress, juice of a small 
onion and sufficient mayonnaise to 
moisten the mixture ; place a tablespoon- 
ful on a firm slice of tomato, instead of 
toast ; garnish with a radish rose. 

Chicken Canapes. — Chop very fine the 
breast meat of cold, boiled chicken ; add 
pepper, salt, one cold, boiled tgg, 
chopped fine, and a small tin of Pate De 
Foie Gras; mix well and add enough 
mayonnaise to bind the mixture, then 
form into little croquettes a little larger 
than olives, roll in powdered nut and 
paprika and lay two on a toast-square 
or a lettuce leaf that has been dipped 
in French dressing. 

For the relishes, most of which come 
in glass, it is only necessary to drain off 
the extra sauce, and add vinaigrette, or 
oil. Serve them in relish dishes or, in- 
dividually, on lettuce leaves. Mushroom 
vinaigrette in oil, otero hors-d'oeuvre, 
heart of palm in Madagascar sauce, sar- 
dines in tomato, artichoke and truffle 
vinaigrette, anchovies and olives in oil, 
bologna with pistachio nuts, and deviled 
crab meat, are among some of the new 
relishes. They may be used to vary the 



canapes, and are a bit lighter to use, if a 
change in weather makes a hot soup or 
broth desirable to add to the day's menu. 

MRS. J. Y. N. 

* * * 
The Elastic Leg o' Lamb 

FOR the sake of encouraging thrift, 
I will pass this on, although in 
acknowledging the liberties I took with 
the nether extremity of this particular 
lambkin, I trust his accusing spirit may 
not haunt me. 

We are four in family. We keep no 
servant. The leg of lamb in question 
weighed 6>^ pounds and cost $1.43. 

The first night at dinner it was served 
freshly roasted. 

The second night, cold and sliced. 

The third night, from a part of what 
remained, I made a well-seasoned hash 
with cold boiled potatoes and green 
peppers. Before lifting hash of any kind, 
I pour over it several tablespoonfuls of 
cream which gives an agreeable richness. 
If tastefully dished and garnished, even 
hash can be made a good substitute for 
meat. 

The fourth day I had occasion to be 
away from home at the lunch hour and, 
in leaving a picnic lunch in the ice box 
for the children, I used several slices for 
sandwiches. I then divested the bone of 
the remainder, cutting the meat in squares 
with enough raw potato and onion to 
make the desired quantity. This I put 
in a casserole with boiling water (or any 
soup stock left over) or tomato in any 
measure liked, letting it simmer until 
potatoes were quite tender. Then set 
away to cool. At dinner time I made a 
crust, as for pie, covering top and bak- 
ing thirty minutes in hot oven, serving 
from casserole at table. 

With the bones, I put a tablespoonful 
of barley, an onion cut fine, or any other 
soup vegetable one may have at hand, 
seasoning well, I covered same with cold 
water and let simmer for several hours, 
serving hot, in cups, before the casserole 
dish. 



146 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Thus an outlay of $1.43 represented 
the meat dish for four people, at four 
dinners, to say nothing of the broth and 
sandwiches. 

With the regulation green vegetables 
or salad and dessert, every one was 
sufficiently fed, with the cat included. 

M. L. H. 

* * * 
Fresh Lettuce 

TO keep lettuce fresh in the ice-box, 
set a head of lettuce into a tum- 
bler or glass containing water. The 
roots will absorb the water and keep the 
lettuce crisp and fresh for several days. 
Change the water every day. I have 
kept it a week this way and it was fresh. 

To press out creases caused by fold- 
ing silk or satin, hold the material with 
its wrong side over steam, and then 
press with not too warm an iron. Re- 
peat process until creases disappear. 
This method does not spot nor stiffen 
material as it would, if it were pressed 
under a wet cloth, or dipped in water 
and pressed. b. n. 

* * * 

Scalloped Potatoes 

Dear Madam: 

Referring to query No. 2523, in your 
May issue, would like to state my ex- 
perience in making scalloped potatoes. 
Have no trouble with milk curdling 
when I scald it before adding to pota- 
toes. MRS. W. K. M. 



with it, that I made the following recipe 
for it, using ''a little of this and a little 
of that and my own judgment," until I 
had a very acceptable dish. 

"Cottage Chicken" 

Two cups cold chicken cut into pieces, 
1 cup cooked macaroni cut into j^-inch 
pieces, Vz a large canned pimiento, V-i 
onion grated. 

Add above ingredients to a white 
sauce made as follows : 

One cup of milk, 1 cup of chicken 
stock, 3 level tablespoon fuls of butter,' 
3 level tablespoonfuls of flour, 1 level 
teaspoonful of salt. 

Put the whole mixture into a deep 
baking dish, and cover with a crust us- 
ing: 

One cup of flour, 2 level teaspoonfuls 
of baking powder, 2 level tablespoonfuls 
of butter, 1 tgg well-beaten, ^ level tea- 
spoonful of salt. Add milk enough just 
to hold the dough together, roll the 
dough to fit the baking pan, and bake 
about Yi hour. 

To keep the gravy from going into the 
crust, and thus robbing the family of 
one of the most palatable parts of the 
dish, place an inverted cup or small bowl 
(buttered so the crust will not adhere to 
it) in the center of the baking dish, be- 
fore pouring in the gravy mixture. In 
the course of the baking the gravy will 
go under the cup. When the **pie" is fl 
done, the crust must be loosened from 
the sides and lifted with a fork long 
enough to remove the cup. l. l. s. 



Tea-Room Ideas 

ANYONE, who likes to cook, can 
get a great deal of pleasure out of 
lunching in a beautiful tea-room and 
then going home with some new ideas 
for the culinary department of the 
household. I have lunched many times 
in one of Chicago's choicest tea-rooms, 
and have looked over the menu-card to 
find things new to me. One day I tried 
"Cottage Chicken," and was so delighted 



Directions for Making Hard Soap 

DISSOLVE one can of red-seal lye • 
in one quart of cold water. 
When cold enough to hold hand on out- 
side of jar, add to it Ya a cup of am- 
monia and 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
also Ya a cup of borax dissolved in ^ M 
little warm water before adding to the ■ 
other ingredients. Have ready 6 pounds 
of grease, just warm enough to pour 
through a cloth into other ingredients. 



HOME IDEAS AND ECOXOMTES 



147 



Stir until quite thick and then put into 
a box or tin Hned with brown paper. 
This should be made in a stone jar, and 
I always wear gloves when making. It 
will be ready for use after four weeks. 

MRS. F. D. 



Chambray — Gingham 

IN the May number of American 
Cookery, Query No. 2528 is puzzled 
about Chambray and Gingham. The 
names are not interchangeable. Cham- 
bray is a material, in which the width 
threads are always white, and it is al- 
ways woven one solid color, never in 
checks or stripes. In gingham, the width 
and length threads may be any color to 
suit the design. Gingham is woven in 
stripes, checks, plaids and solid color. 
When woven in a solid color, the width 
and length threads are of the same color. 
Having made a study of textiles and 
knowing that the American Cookery 
stands for all that is best, I send you this 
bit of information. There are materials 
woven, called madras and zephyr ging- 
ham, of which the weave is not plain as 
in the plain gingham. e. c. m. 

* * * 

Colonna Fudge 

ANYONE who relishes good candies 
likes to tr>^ her hand at making 
goodies at home. A creamy fudge is 
more tasteful than a square of chocolate 
sugar. 

A square of chocolate should be 
melted in a saucepan set in a pan of boil- 
ing water. After the chocolate has 
melted, two cups of sugar and three- 
fourths a cup of milk or cream and a 
pretty good sized lump of butter should 
l)e added. These ingredients should be 
placed over a slow fire, — not an open 
fire, and cooked until a few drops in 
cold water will cleave together and form 
a little ball. After it is cooked it should 
be set aside to cool slowly. The most 
important part to be remembered is not 
to let the fudge cook too long. 



Almost every housewife has an old 
marble slab, off a table or washstand 
that belonged to her mother or grand- 
mother. This should be wiped perfectly 
clean. After the fudge has cooled some- 
what it should be poured slowly on the 
slab and beaten constantly. The mar- 
ble absorbs the heat of the fudge. After 
being beaten for a few minutes the fudge 
will thicken, then a few nuts or cherries 
may be added. The fudge may be 
beaten until it forms a ball or is thick 
enough to roll on a buttered plate and 
spread flat. This fudge is delicious — 
''just melts in your mouth." f. f. 

* * * 

When all the Table is Green 

IT is a generally accepted fact that 
green dyes are the most injurious 
of any dyes to tise, but there is a 
harmless green vegetable dye that may 
be used to color a whole table scheme 
for a Eeast of Eerns. 

Spinach contains the most active col- 
oring of any of the green . vegetables, 
and it has the advantage of being very 
inexpensive if it is to be bought, or easy 
of growth if it is to be grown. What 
could be more attractive for a meal than 
one all in green? Green decorations, of 
ferns, and no flowers. Eirst we may 
have a green pea soup. Shell and cook 
the peas tender, and with the peas cook 
a few leaves of spinach, to give added 
color, or if preferred, cook the spinach 
in rich milk until the milk is of the 
proper green color, or pound the fresh 
spinach leaves and extract the juice and 
use it for coloring various things. Color 
the green peas to suit the taste with the 
spinach in any one of the ways men- 
tioned. Put the peas through a sieve, 
dilute with rich milk, colored green, 
with spinach, and thicken a little with 
flour and butter rubbed together and 
added to the hot mixture. Season with 
salt and white pepper and serve. 

Potatoes may l)e cut in any fancy 
shape desired, and colored with spinach 
leaves, cooked with them. 



148 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Spinach itself may make a very good 
and appetizing dish, aUhough it will not 
be of a light green color when cooked. 
Cook tender, chop, season, cool, and 
serve with French dressing. 

Boiled eggs may be colored green with 
the fresh spinach juice, and this coloring 
done instantly while the eggs are hot, 
and peeled. Test one first in the spin- 
ach juice, and dilute or add to as needed 
to produce the desired color. 

An aspic of chicken can be made by 
coloring the chicken stock with spinach 
leaves, and using gelatine as needed, to 
harden, although the chicken is sufficient 
of itself to make a jelly if not too much 
diluted with water. Use the white of 
the chicken only, and chop or pull into 
small pieces, and mould after seasoning 
with white pepper and salt. Garnish 
with parsley, and slice to serve. 

Young cabbage chopped fine and put 
into cups made from curly lettuce leaves, 
makes a pretty salad; fold the lettuce 
leaves to imitate a calla lily shape, fill 
with the cabbage, which has been well 
mixed with a good salad dressing, and 
use some very yellow salad dressing to 
indicate the calla lily pistil or center. 

A mint sherbet will go well with this 
Feast of Ferns. Make a strong and 
very sweet boiling hot lemonade, and 
add while still hot a handful of crushed 
mint leaves. Let cool, then strain and 
freeze. Add some of the green coloring 
from crushed spinach leaves, if needed, 
to give the color desired; remember it 
will look much lighter colored after it 
is frozen. The sherbet is served in crys- 
tal glasses and may have chopped or 
shredded candied citron put over the top, 
and garnished further with fresh mint 
leaves or sprigs. 

A green lemonade or mintade may be 
effected in a very similar way. Slice 
and crush the lemons with sugar and 
mint leaves in a strong pitcher, using a 
wooden potato masher for the purpose. 
Add w^ater as desired, and strain, as the 
lemon peeling, while essential to the fine 



flavor of the lemonade, soon turns the 
product slightly bitter in taste. Put 
sprigs of mint in each glass and pour 
the lemonade over them. Color green 
with extracted spinach juice. 

Small cakes may be frosted with con- 
fectioner's sugar, and colored with the 
spinach juice. Or large cakes may be 
made in layers and frosted in this way, 
— a cake that is very white makes a 
good foundation for the green, and this 
cake may be richly fruited with shred- 
ded, or chopped, citron and have the 
citron laid in fern-leaf shapes over the 
top, or each small cake may have a small 
fern leaf of the shredded citron ar- 
ranged in the frosting while it is soft. 

In making home-made confections, 
after-dinner mints, or what you will, 
color with the spinach green, but do not 
add this until the fondant is cool; color 
when molding to suit the taste. Pista- 
chio or mint will be the suitable fla- 
vorings. 

Small potatoes, or potatoes cut in 
fancy shapes, may be covered with 
melted butter stirred thick with chopped 
parsley leaves. 

Green apples, green pears, green 
grapes, — any green colored fruit may be 
used. R. s. M. 



I 



There is a greatly increased need for 
more attention to personal hygiene. It 
is stated as a fact that the number of 
deaths each year from degenerative dis- 
eases is steadily increasing. These are 
due to sedentary habits, the conveniences 
of civilization, reduced opportunities for 
physical exercise, rich food, and hearty 
meals, these bad habits leading directly 
to a degeneration of the circulatory, di- 
gestive, and nervous systems. 



Teacher: "Wait a moment, Johnny. 
What do you understand by that word 
'deficit'?" Johnny: 'Tt's what you've 
got when you haven't got as much as if 
you just hadn't nothin'." — Chicago Trib- 
une. 




z/e ries 

and 

Q/fhsivers 




THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes* 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



(JuERY No. 2548.— "Recipe for 'Stick-Candy 
Ice Cream.'" 

Peppermint-Candy Ice Cream 

Add to partly frozen Philadelphia ice 
cream (thin cream sweetened), half a 
cup, each, of seeded raisins, chopped 
pecan-nut meats and shredded almonds, 
and one cup of peppermint-stick candy 
crushed fine. Pack in a mold and when 
unmolded garnish with whipped cream 
streaked with red coloring paste. This is 
done by drawing a fork dipped in the 
color quickly through the cream. 



Query No. 2549.— "Recipe for Cake contain- 
ing Chocolate, one that makes a Light Cake, 
without a Heavy Streak." 

Chocolate Cake 



sugar 
3 eggs, beaten light 
\ cup milk 
11 cups flour 
3 level teaspoonfuls 

baking powder 
Boiled frosting 



h. cup butter 

\h cups sugar 

4 ounces (squares) 
chocolate 

3 teaspoonfuls boil- 
ing water 

2 tablespoonfuls 

Cream the butter, and beat in the 
sugar; melt the chocolate, add the water 
and the two tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
stir over the fire until smooth; then 
gradually beat the chocolate mixture 
into the first mixture; add the eggs, 
then, alternately, the milk and flour with 
the baking powder. Bake in layers or 
in one sheet. Cover with boiled frost- 
ing. 



Everyday Chocolate Cake 



2 eggs, beaten light 
I cup sugar 



\ teaspoonful salt 
U cups flour 



2\ level teaspoonfuls 
baking powder 

h teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 



3 tablespoonfuls 

melted butter 
2 ounces melted 

chocolate 
\ cup milk 

Gradually beat the sugar into the eggs ; 
add the melted butter and chocolate and, 
alternately, the milk and flour with the 
baking powder, salt, and cinnamon. 
Bake in a pan about 11x7 inches, about 
twenty-five minutes. Cover with : 

Caramel Frosting 



1 egg-white, beaten 
dry 



\ cup white sugar 
\ cup brown sugar 
\ cup boiling water 

Melt the sugar in the water, washing 
down the sides of the pan, and let boil 
to the soft-ball stage, then pour in a 
fine stream on the white of ^gg, beating 
constantly meanwhile. Use when cold 
enough to hold its shape. 



Query No. 2550.— "Recipe for a good, rich 
flaky Pastry, not too troublesome to make 
and that never fails." 

Flaky Pastry 

U cups sifted pastry \ cup shortening 

flour (5 ounces) cokl water 

i teaspoonful salt 3 tablespoonfuls 

i teaspoonful baking butter 
powder 

Sift together the flour, salt and bak- 
ing powder; with two knives cut the 
shortening into the flour mixture and 
use the water in mixing a paste that is 
of a consistency to clean the bowl. Turn 
the paste upon a lightly floured board 
(a "magic cover" for board and pin sim- 



149 



150 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



plifics the making of pastry) until coated 
with flour; knead slightly, then pat and 
roll into a rectangular sheet. Have 
ready the butter beaten to a cream; 
spread one-half the paste with butter, 
fold the other half over the butter; 
spread one-half of this paste with the 
rest of the butter, fold the other half 
of the paste over the butter; roll into a 
long strip, fold three times, turn half 
way round and roll again into a strip ; 
repeat the folding, turning and rolling 
three or four times then use as desired. 



Query No. 2551. — "Recipe for Hashed 
Brown Potatoes, cooked in an omelet pan, that 
are moist inside." 

Moist Hashed Brown Po tatoe s 
Chop five or six cold, boiled potatoes 
fine, adding about half a teaspoonful of 
salt and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
pepper. Have ready about one-third a 
cup of fat, tried out from salt pork and 
hot in an iron frying pan ; put in the 
potatoes and stir them while they be- 
come hot; then spread them evenly over 
the pan (the potato should be nearly one 
inch thick), cover and let stand to brown 
on the bottom; with a spatula carefully 
fold one-half over the other half and 
turn on to a hot platter. 



Query No. 2552.— "What is used at hotels 
in French Dressing to make it red?" 

Red French Dressing 

Paprika, half a teaspoonful to four 
tablespoon fuls of oil, is used to tint 
French dressing, either with or without 
chili sauce or tomato catsup. About one 
tablespoon ful of either of the two latter 
is used with four tablespoonfuls of oil. 
For fruit salads enough grenadine (a red 
tinted cordial) is added to give the 
dressing the tint desired. 



Query No. 2553. — "Recipe for Sour-Cream 
Drop Cookies, soft, rather thick molasses 
cookies which will not dry out." 

Sour-Cream Drop Cookies 



Mix in the order given, first beating 
the butter to a cream ; drop from a 
spoon upon a buttered baking sheet ; 
bake in an oven of moderate heat. 

Soft Molasses Cookies 



4 cup butter 
i cup boiling water 
1 cup molasses 
1 teaspoonful, level, 
soda 

Melt the butter 



1 teaspoonful ginger 
i teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
i teaspoonful salt 
Flour for drop baiter 

in the boiling water; 
add the molasses and the other ingredi- 
ents sifted together. Drop from a spoon 
upon a buttered baking pan, having the 
cakes some distance apart. Bake in a 
moderately quick oven. The dough 
should be of a consistency to make cakes 
that do not spread too much. Try one 
cake, then add more flour if needed. 
Stored in a tight-closed earthen jar the 
cakes will keep moist a long time. 



Query No. 2554.— "Recipe for Cup Cakes.' 

Cup Cakes 

2 slightly rounding 



i cup butter 

1 cup sugar 

2 egg-yolks 
h cup water 
2i cups flour 



teaspoon fuls bak- 
ing powder 
2 egg-whites, beaten 
dry 



2 tablespoonfuls 

shortening 
2 cups scalded milk 
2 cups bread flour 
Bran as needed 



i cup butter 
1 cup sugar 
1 egg, beaten light 



i cup sour cream 

2i cups flour 

i teaspoonful soda 



Mix in the usual manner, bake in 
small cupcake tins about twenty-five 
minutes. 

Query No. 2555. — "Recipe for Bran Bread 
made with yeast." 

Bran Bread with Yeast 

1 cake compressed 

yeast 
i cup lukewarm 

water 
i cup molasses 
1 teaspoonful salt 

Dissolve the shortening in the milk ; 

add the molasses and salt, and when 

cooled to a lukewarm temperature, add 

the yeast mixed with the water and the 

flour, then stir in enough bran to make 

a mixture that may be kneaded. Knead 

the dough until smooth and elastic; use 

flour for kneading. Do not make the 

dough too stiff with bran. Divide the 

dough into halves and shape to fit two, 

ordinary, brick-loaf pans. When light 

bake nearly one hour. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Who Uses Crisco? 

THE number of Crisco enthusiasts grows 
with every day — and thanks to the quality 
of the product, will keep growing as long as 
Crisco is made and women continue to cook. 

Four years ago Crisco was offered as a new 
cooking material, to be used in place of butter 
and lard. 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
151 



15: 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Query No. 2556.— "Suggestions for inex- 
pensive Kefreslnnents for evenings in August 
or September." 

Inexpensive Refreslunents for Evening 
(August) 

Sliced Peaches and Pineapple, Sugared 
Nut Bread Sandwiches 

Stuffed Tomato Salad 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Bread-and-Gardcn Cress Sandwiches 

Iced Tea 

Cold Mexican-Rabbit Sandwiches 

Ginger Ale 
Orange-and-Grape Juice Frappe 

Macaroons 

String Beans, Russian Dressing 

Garnish Sliced Eggs 

Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 

Inexpensive Refreshments for Evening 
{September) 

Philadelphia Butter Buns (reheated) 
Cocoa 

Peach-and-Orangc Sherbet 
Sponge Cakelets 

Deviled Sardine Sandwiches 
Iced Coffee 

Macaroni Croquettes 
Cold Lamb 

Lettuce, Pineapple-and-Celery Salad 

Mayonnaise and Whipped Cream 

(half and half) 

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuit (cold) 

Peach Cocktail 
Nut Bread-and-Butter Sandwiches 



QuKRY No. 2557.— "Recipe for an English 
Boiled Meat Pudding.— The kind I wish is a 
sheet of dough containing the meat, placed in 
a bowl, which is wrapped in a cloth and im- 
mersed in boiling water." 

Steak and Oyster Pudding 

(Senn) 

1 pound flour 18 sauce oysters 

8 ounces beef suet :} cup stock 

i cup milk Salt and pepper 

li pounds rump i lemon 
steak 

Free the suet from skin and chop it 

fine ; sprinkle a little flour or a few bread 

crumbs over the suet when chopping it. 

Mix the suet, teaspoonful of salt and 

the pound of flour thorottghly. Add the 

milk and a little water, if needed, and 

work into a paste. Cut the beef across 

the grain into thin slices. Mix about a 

tablespoonful of flour with a teaspoonful 

of salt and a half-teaspoonful of pepper 



in a plate; dip one side of the meat 
slices in this, and roll in each a small 
piece of fat. Beard the oysters. Roll 
out the paste about one-quarter of an 
inch thick, and line with it a pudding 
basin of suitable size. Reserve a piece 
of the paste large enough for the top of 
the pudding. Fill the lined basin with 
layers of beef and oysters. Rasp a little 
lemon-rind between the layers, moisten 
with well-seasoned stock and a little 
lemon juice. Wet the edge of the paste- 
crust and place on the cover; press 
down the edges. Tie the basin in a 
pudding-cloth which has been wrung out 
of hot water and floured ; in tying the 
cloth allow sufificient room for the crust 
to swell in cooking. Put the pudding in 
a stewpan half-filled with boiling water 
and let cook two hours and a half, or, 
steam about three hours. Wlien done, 
remove the cloth, turn the pudding on a 
hot dish and serve. 

When oysters are out of season sub- 
stitute for them bits of ham or bacon. 



Query No, 2558. — "Recipe for Thousand 
Island Salad Dressing." 

Thousand Island Salad Dressing 

Put into a small glass fruit jar half a 
cup of olive oil, the juice of half a 
lemon, and half an orange, a teaspoon- 
ful of grated onion pulp, one- fourth a 
teaspoonful, each, of salt and paprika, 
one teaspoonful, of Worcestershire 
sauce, one- fourth a teaspoonful of mus- 
tard and three sprigs of parsley, 
chopped fine ; put on a rubber and the 
cover and shake vigorously until well- 
mixed and creamy, then pour at once 
over the salad ingredients. This is suit- 
able for tomatoes, asparagus, peas, 
beans, spinach, lettuce, endive, etc. 



Query No. 2559. — "Recipes for Lemon 
Custard Pie ; also repeat the recipe for Ger- 
man Apple Cake with a Cnstard poured 
over it during baking." 

German Apple Cake, Revised 

2 cups flour I 3 tablespoonfuls 

I teaspoonful salt | currants 

4 level teaspoonfuls 2 tablespoonfuls 

baking powder | butter 



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C^*^ Every Trace of Grease 



f 



n 



Cf« 



rom 



^t(^ 



fj-eez^rs 



And 0th 
Food Uteris 



Because 

Old Dutch 

is Sanitary 

it Leaves 

bGhind 

no trace of 

dangerous 

souring 

Caustic 

Alkali or Acid 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
153 



154 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



i cup butter I 3 tablespoonfuls 

1 egg I sugar 

1 cup milk 1 egg, well beaten 

3 apples I i cup milk 

Sift together the dry ingredients and 
work in the butter. Beat the egg; add 
the milk and stir into the dry ingredi- 
ents. Turn the mixture into a buttered 
pan. Pare, quarter and core the apples ; 
cut the prepared quarters in slices and 
press them, core side downwards, into 
the top of the dough, making two rows 
lengthwise of the cake; sprinkle with 
the currants and dredge with granulated 
sugar. Let bake about eighteen minutes, 
or until nearly done; without moving 
the cake in the oven, pour over a custard 
mixture and continue the baking until 
done. Serve hot at breakfast, luncheon 
or supper, or as a hearty dessert at 
dinner. To make the custard, cream the 
butter, beat in the sugar, then the egg 
and milk. 

Lemon Sponge Pie 



3 tablespoonfuls 

butter 
U cups sugar 
3 egg-yolks, beaten 

light 
li lemons, juice 

and grated rind — 

if desired 



salt 



3 rounding table- 
spoonfuls flour 
h cup milk 
J teaspoonful 

scant 
1 cup milk 
3 egg-whites, 
beaten dry 

Beat the butter to a cream ; beat part 

of the sugar into the butter, the rest into 

the yolks, then beat the two together and 

add the lemon juice. Mix the flour and 

salt with the half-cup of milk ; add to 

the first ingredients, then add the cup of 

milk and the whites of eggs. Fold in 

the eggs, turn into a large agate plate 

lined with pastry, as for a custard pie. 

Bake from 30 to 40 minutes. This is a 

good pie, but it may not be the recipe 

desired. 



Query No. 2560. — "Recipe for Mignon- 
nette Sauce to serve on Broiled Live Lob- 



sters. 



Mignonette Sauce 



1 cup butter 

2 tablespoonfuls 
chopped parsley 

2 tablespoonfuls 
lemon juice 



} teaspoonful salt 
4 teaspoonful 

paprika 
i teaspoonful 

mignonette pepper 



the other ingredients, mix thoroughly 
and send to the table in a sauceboat. 
Mignonette pepper is made by grinding 
peppercorns in a small hand mill. The 
peppercorns should be fresh-ground and 
left in coarse pieces. 



Query No. 2561. — "My cream of tartar 
and soda biscuits are not soft and flaky; 
the crust is hard. Can you tell me what 
the trouble is?" 

Trouble with Soda Biscuit 

Probably the biscuit are not mixed 
soft enough. The dough should be 
handled as little as possible and a quick 
oven is needed for baking. A knife is 
the proper utensil for mixing biscuit 
dough. Two knives are needed to cut in 
the shortening. After the dough is 
mixed, turn it with the knife on a board 
lightly dredged with flour, then the 
fingers will not stick while it is being 
kneaded slightly ; then pat with the pin 
and roll out. Always use pastry flour 
for such biscuits. 



Query No. 2562. — "Recipe for Turkish 
Delight made of Oranges and Lemons." 

Turkish Paste, Orange Flavored 



i cup orange juice 
Thin yellow peel of 

2 oranges 
2 tablespoonfuls 

lemon juice 



3 level tablespoon- 
fuls granulated 
gelatine 

i cup cold water 

2 cups granulated 
sugar 

Soften the gelatine in the cold water 

and dissolve the sugar in the fruit juice; 

add the two mixtures, and the orange 

peel, and stir until boiling, then let boil 

twenty minutes. Turn into an unbut- 

tered bread pan. Let stand in a cool 

place over night. To unmold, loosen the 

paste at the edges with a pointed knife; 

sift confectioner's sugar over the paste 

and the tips of the fingers -and pull it 

slowly from the pan to a board dredged 

with confectioner's sugar. Cut into 

cubes with a sharp knife. Roll the cubes 

in sugar to coat each completely. 



Melt the butter over hot water; add 



Query No. 
avoid having 
shrink?" 



2563.— "Kindly tell how to 
souffles fall and meringues 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






Only the best and purest malt 
vinegar-made in our own brewer- 
ies, on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England -is used. 

It takes over two years of careful preparation 
and ageing to produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 
^ A good wine cannot be made in a day — neither 
was Holbrook's Sauce 




It is better to use no 
sauce at all than a sauce 
that is not Holbrook's." 




HOLBROOKE 



QRCES^RSHIRE 

nsAucE 



SHIIE HOUSE nt-Ungofit^On^ 




DWINELL-WRIGHT C? 

PRINCIPAL COFFEE ROASTERS 

BOSTON -CHICAGO 






f 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
155 



156 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Why Souffles Fall 

Suufilcs contain many eggs, beaten 
very light. When heated in the oven 
the air incorporated in the tgg expands 
and lifts up the whole mass. On cooling 
— even a little — the air contracts and 
the souffle falls. While all souffles fall 
to some extent, if the cell walls of the 
egg arc properly stiffened by the heat, 
the contraction, or falHng, will be slower 
and the dish is regarded as a success. 

Why Meringues Shrink 

A meringue shrinks if it is not cooked 
long enough — or, more often, because it 
is cooked too fast. A souffle is usually 
composed of some heavy article as 
chicken, or fish and eggs, and the heavy 
article increases the liability of the eggs 
to fall. In meringues, nothing but 
whites of eggs and sugar (with flavor- 
ing) is used and, if the cooking be slow 
and continued long enough to stiffen the 
cell walls thoroughly, the shrinking of 
the meringue will scarcely be noticed. 



Query No. 2564. — "Recipes for Brandied 
Peaches and Spiced Peaches." 

Brandied Peaches 

Select choice peaches and leave them 
whole. Brush the skins carefully to re- 
move the down, or dip first in boiling 
water and then in cold, and slip off the 
skins. Make a syrup by boiling three- 
fourths a pound of sugar for each pound 
of fruit, with a cup of water to each 
pound of sugar. Skim the syrup, then 
in it cook the peaches, a few at a time, 
until tender. When cold, put the 
peaches into jars, mix a cup of brandy 
with each cup of cold syrup, and use at 
once to fill the jars. Close the jars as in 
canning fruit. If the syrup be thin, 
drain from the fruit and reduce by boil- 
ing, then chill and add the brandy. 

Spiced, Pickled Peaches 



Brush the skins of the peaches to re- 
move the down, or dip for two minutes 
in boiling water, then in cold water. 
Make a syrup of the sugar, vinegar and 
water; add the spices, then cook the 
peaches in the syrup, a few at a time, 
until tender. When all are cooked, drain 
off any syrup around them, and let all 
the syrup cook until thickened some- 
what. Reheat the peaches in the syrup 
and store in glass cans as canned fruit 
is stored. 



Query No. 2565.— "Why does Mayon- 
naise Dressing curdle even when the oil 
is chilled and added slowly." 

Why Does Mayonnaise Some- 
times Curdle 

To make mayonnaise without separa- 
tion, the eggs should be fresh and the 
oil at about the temperature of the room 
in which it is to be served. Escoffier 
gives three causes for the "disintegration 
of Mayonnaise." 

1. The too rapid addition of the oil 
at the start. 

2. The use of congealed, or too cold, 
an oil. 

3. Excess of oil in proportion to the 
number of yolks, the assimilating power 
of an egg being limited to two and one- 
half ounces of oil (if the sauce be made 
some time in advance) and three ounces 
if it is to be used immediately. 

Our experience has been that, if the 
dressing was to be used on the day of 
mixing, a much larger quantity of oil 
could be added without any separation 
taking place. We also find that the 
dressing is made more easily, if all the 
acid that is to be used in the dressing be 
beaten into the yolks before the addition 
of any of the oil. Lemon juice gives a 
whiter dressing than does vinegar. 



7 pounds peaches 
3-h pounds sugar 
3 cups vinegar 
Whole cloves 



3 ounces stick 

cinnamon 
1 to 3 cups water 



Query No. 2566. — "Recipes for Vegetable 
Soups to serve large numbers." 

Kornlet Chowder 



5 slices fat salt pork 

in cubes 
5 onions, sliced 



7 quarts milk 
5 cans kornlet 
I cup butter 



i 



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wafers enclosing a de- 
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In ten-cent tins. "^^^ \ 

Festino— Dessert confections 
that are really almonds in 
shape and flavor. 











Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
157 



158 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



3 quarts boiling i cup flour 

water 6 tablespoonfuls salt 

5 quarts potatoes in 1 teaspoonful pepper 
small cubes 3 tablespoonfuls line- 

chopped parsley 

Cook the pork until the fat is well 
tried out; add the onions and let cook, 
stirring almost constantly until softened 
and yellowed a little, then add the water, 
cover and let simmer fifteen or twenty 
minutes. Strain the water over the po- 
tatoes, pressing out all the liquid possi- 
ble. Add the pepper and part of the 
salt and let cook until the potatoes are 
tender. Make a sauce of the butter, 
flour, rest of the salt and the milk. Add 
this to the potatoes with the corn and 
the parsley. When very hot, it is ready 
to serve. This will serve fifty and if all 
is not served at once, should be kept hot 
over boiling water. 

Lima Bean Soup 

Frances L. Smith 

1 cup flour 

5 quarts milk 

Salt and paprika to 

taste 
4 or more teaspoon- 
fuls Worcester- 
shire sauce 
1 teaspoonful pepper 



If quarts dried Lima 

beans 
1 cup chopiped onion 
6 sprigs parsley 

6 stalks celery 
1 cup chopped carrot 

7 quarts cold water 
li cups butter 

Soak beans over night, drain. Add 

water, onion, celery, parsley and carrot 

and cook slowly three or four hours; 

press through a sieve. Melt the butter; 

in it cook the flour, then add part of the 

milk, cold ; stir constantly until the sauce 

is smooth, thick and boiling, then add the 

rest of the milk hot from a double boiler. 

Add the seasonings and when ready to 

serve combine the two mixtures. Split 

peas may be substituted for Lima beans. 



It 



Query No. 2567.— "Recipe for a dessert 
made of rice ; the whole was very white and 
creamy, and the kernels of rice whole. ^ 
contained chopped nuts and was molded.' 

Rice Bavarian Cream with 
Almonds 



li cups cooked rice 
(grains distinct) 

i package gelatine 
(h an ounce) 

i cup' cold milk 

i cup hot milk 



i cup sugar 
14 cups cream 
1 teaspoonful vanilla 
i cup blanched al- 
monds 



The rice should be blanched (set to 
cook in cold water, heated quickly to the 
boiling point, drained and rinsed in cold 
water) then cook tender in plenty of 
milk (about one cup and a half of milk 
to one-third a cup of rice). Soften the 
gelatine in the cold milk, dissolve in the 
hot milk, and add to the rice with the 
sugar and almonds, chopped or sliced. 
Stir over ice and water until the mixture 
begins to thicken, then fold in the va- 
nilla and cream beaten very light. Con- 
tinue to fold the two mixtures together 
until it will ''hold its shape," then dis- 
pose in a mold. 



Query No. 2568. — "Why was Amber Mar- 
malade boiled to 218° F. too thin?" 

Boiling of Amber Marmalade 

Pay but little attention to the degree 
on the thermometer; cook the marma- 
lade until when dropped from the spoon 
it drops in beads or seems thick — 218° 
F. is about the right degree. We are not 
able to say why jelly should shrink on 
one side of the glass and not on the 
other. 



OPEN-MINDEDNESS 
A typical Scotchman is reported to 
have said that he personally "was al- 
ways open to conviction, but he would 
like to see the man who could convince 
him that he was wrong." It is hardly 
necessary to say that many other people 
besides the Scotchman have this same 
kind of open-mindedness. 



CAREFUL HOUSEKEEPERS 

Use a Reliable Disinfectant all over the house. 
A cupful in a pail of water for scrubbing floors 

and woodwork. 
Pour a little in the sink, tubs, basins and toilets. ^ 
Wash refrigerators and store-rooms. 
Has no disagreeable odor. 
Safe, Strong and EconomicaL 

Two Sizes: 25 and 50 cents 

Platts Chlorides . 

TheOdorlessDisinfectant., 

Sample a»€i Booklet * Tte© Sarjitary Home/' FREE 
HENRY B. PLATT 43 Cliff St,, New York 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Mrs, Rover uses 
Pyrex exclusively 




Mrs. Rorer ready to fricassee chicken in Pyrex Glass Casserole. Photo 
taken prior to a lecture-class in the Gimbel Store, Philadelphia. 

nVOli Y Glass Dishes 
Jr 1 lUlA for Baking 

("FIRE - GLASS '') ^ 



Trade Mark Registered 



quicker^ better^ cleaner^ cheaper baking 



Baking in glass! To the brisk, capable house- 
wife what a picture this draws of shining, polished 
! surfaces, spotless cleanliness, rapid and splendid bak- 
ing! What a relief in the banishing of pots and pans, 
scrubbing and scouring, slow, tedious baking, the 
unceasing labor to keep things clean! 

Pyrex is a new-process glass, fire-proofed to with- 
stand the heat of the hottest oven. It is transparent, 
strong, will not chip or craze, will stand up under 

I constant, long use— thoroughly practical, effective and 

1 economical for baking utensils. 

With Pyrex you bake faster and better because 
'these glass dishes cook at a higher temperature than 
earthenware or metal. You bake and serve in the 
same dish. You use fewer dishes. You take these 
dainty dishes right from the oven and place them just 
as they are on the dining-room table, piping hot, 
glistening, speckless, appetizing. You clean Pyrex 
dishes with the utmost ease— polish them to a brilliant 
sheen. You save work, time, fuel (money) pantry 
space. 



Pyrex Glass Dishes are a genuine delight to for- 
ward-looking housewives and cookery experts every- 
where. You will be equally enthusiastic at the first 
trial. Booklet on request showing the wide range of 
dishes that may be baked and served in Pyrex. 

2 qt. Baking Dish (Casserole) and Cover $1.75 

1 qt. Baking Dish (Casserole) and Cover 1.20 

Bread Pan {%Vi x 4]^ ins.) 75 

Pie Plate (8^ ins. wide) 75 

Pie Plate (Sins, wide) 65 

Shirred Egg Dish (7 ins. wide) 65 

Oval '"Au Gratin" Dish (6x8 ins.) 70 

Oval Individual Baker (4 x 6 ins.) 35 

Custard Cup 20 

Ask your department or china store to get these 
Pyrex Glass Dishes for you — or write to any of the 
following stores and they will supply you. 



Marshall Field & Co., Chicago 
Jordan Marsh & Co., Boston 
Gimbel Bros.. New York City 
Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia 
Gimbel Bros., Milwaukee 
Kaufmann Store, Pittsburg 



\Vm. Hengerer Co., BulTalo 
Emery Bird Thayer, Kansas City 
Famous & Barr Co., St. Louis 
Fred'k Loeser & Co., Brooklyn 
Bamberger's, Newark, N. J. 
Hochschild Kohn & Co., Baltimore 



CORNING GLASS WORKS, Est. 1868, 



CORNING, N. Y., U.S.A. 



Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
159 



The Silver Lining 



Little Tommy's Puzzle 

[With apologies to E. K. Carrutli] 

The thing that puzzles me is how 
My Ma can live with father, 
If he's as queer as what she says 
And always sucli a bother. 

You see he makes her awful mad, 
Because he will not heed her. 
She says he almost seems to act 
As if he did not need her. 

Why she can tell him what to do 
And how to do it better; 
I'm sure she'd make us rich as Croesus, 
Tf he would only let her. 

She'd make 'em all stand 'round, you bet, 
Tf she and Pa changed places. 
The landlord would rebuild our house — 
Pa's boss would rush the raises. 

It seems so queer that Pa can't see 
How awful things are going. 
He just keeps on a-sawing wood 
And Ma does all the jawing. 

A. P. Teasdale. 



tie Boy (after reflection) : '*I should 
think it wotild be awful hard for a real 
big Quaker to be a Quaker." — Good 



4 



Blessings at the Front 



A very poignant story reaches iMr] 
Punch of London indirectly from the 
trenches. A gallant Tommy, having re- 
ceived from England an anonymous gift 
of socks, entered them at once, for he 
was about to undertake a heavy march. 
He was soon a prey to the most excru- 
ciating agony in the big toe, and when, 
a mere cripple, he drew ofif his footgear 
at the end of a terrible day, he discov- 
ered inside the toe of the sock what had 
once been a piece of stiff writing-paper, 
now reduced to pulp ; and on it appeared 
in bold feminine hand the almost illegi- 
ble benediction : — "God bless the wearer 
of this pair of socks!" 



J 



Little Clarence : "Pa, what is an opti- 
mist?" Mr. Callipers: "An optimist, 
my son, is a person who doesn't care 
what happens if it doesn't happen to 
him." — Puck. 



Little Boy : "Don't Quakers ever 
fight?" Mother: "No, my dear." Lit- 



Work for Father 

The Yale freshman year was proving 
very expensive to father, so father de- 
cided to have a "heart-to-heart" talk 
with Johnny, home for the week end. 

"Now, son," said he gravely, but af- 
fectionately, "your mother and I are 
spending just as little as we possibly 
can. I get up in the morning at half- 



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Distinctive little people wear 




M-'-'S 








HOSE SUPPORTERS 



Their hosiery is kept neat and 
trim all day. They may run or 
play freely without frequent tug- 
ging at loose or falling stockings. 

The only hose supporter with the 
Oblong Rubber Button 

which prevents drop stitches. 
Sample pair of Pin-Ons for Children 15c. 
postpaid (give age). Sample set of lour 
Sew-ons for Women 50c. postpaid. 



It's easy to pick out Velvet Grip children george frost co, Makers, boston 

riininiiiiiiiiniiiiiuiiiuiiiniiiiunnHiiniiiiuiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiHiiiiHMiiiiMNiiiiiHiiiiiiiiuiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiuiniiiMiiuiiuiiiiiuuiiuiiiiiiMUiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii^ 




Buy advertised 



Goods — do not 
160 



accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






^ 




fRecause ii is delicious 

j^jecause it is* reSrcshin^- — ■ 
i/ecausc it is thirst^cpenchiii^' 

And because il is the coinbii^ation 
of the three.That i^arks Coca Cob 
as a distir^ctive beverage. 

Demand the genuine and avoid disappointmenp 
THE COCA COLA CO. Atlanta, Ga. 



P 



"'i'li' ininiiiiiiiimnni|TMl^i imiiiiiriiiiiiiiimiiiiirnv^y ^ 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
161 



AMERICAN COOKERY 





Perfect 

Frozen 

Desserts 



The delicacy and 
deliciousness of ice 
cream and other 
frozen dainties 
should be made cer- 
tain by the best of 
flavoring. Freezing magnifies 
the imperfections of cheap and 
imitation vanillas — do not 
risk them, but always 
use 



Buiirietfi 



ViiNllLLii 



ALSO 

Almond 
LemoK 
Oran4p 
Fresrx 
Fruit 
Extract9 
etc. 



Its smooth, rich fla- 
vor of Mexican Vanilla 
and the exquisitely 
dainty note it adds are 
worth many times the 
small cost of the few 
spoonsful you need. 
A Delicious, 
Simple Cream 

One scant pint of cream and 
1 of milk, V2 teacuptul of gran- 
ulated sugar. Flavor with 1 scant tablespoonful 
of Burnett's Vanilla. Freeze as usual. Serve 
with Chocolate, Maple or Fruit sauce. 

A tempting delicacy can be given to all 
desserts, by using this noticeably better 
extract^ so smoothly rich, so daintily fra- 
grant, so appetizingly delicious. It is very 
much worth while to use Burnett's. 

Write for our new booklet of 1 1 5 dainty desserts. 

Sent free if you mention your grocer 's name. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

Dept. K, 36 India Street Boston, Ma«s. 



past six and I work until after five. 
But, son, the money just won't go round 
at the rate that your expenses are run- 
ning. Now, 1 ask you, as one man to 
another, what do you think we had bet- 
ter do?" 

For a moment Johnny's head was bur- 
ied in thought — and then he rephed: 

"Well, father, I don't see any way out 
hut for you to work nights." 



Buy advertised Goods — do 
162 



Horrid Uncle Dick 

A certain charming young thing of 
this town (identified as New York by 
The Times) has an uncle of whom she 
has always been, and still is, very fond; 
but just at present she is convinced that 
he is as catty as any woman she's ever 
known. 

She tells the story herself : 

"Listen. You know I have always 
had an excessive afifection for Uncle 
Dick, and have without exception told 
him everything — absolutely everything. 

"Now, the fact that I have had so 
much trouble with — well, you know with 
whom — has never been a joke to me. 
Last year, when that affair with Tom 
was on, I wrote, of course, to Uncle 
Dick about it — Uncle was then in the 
West. Now, since he always liked Tom, 
he wrote me a beautiful letter, ofifering i 
me all manner of felicitations and wishes ' 
for a bright and prosperous future. I 
treasured that letter from Uncle Dick. 

"Now, it isn't necessary for me to ■ 
refer to my disappointment in Tom — 
his behavior justified any action on my 
part. I know that people say I threw 
him over and all that sort of thing, but, 
honestly, there was only one thing to do, 
and of course I did it. 

"Well, I suppose it did seem a little 
startling to Uncle Dick, when, a little 
over two months since the writing of his 
first letter, he received another from me, 
telling him of my engagement to Harry. 
But Uncle was terribly nice about it. 
He approved of my course in the matter, 
even though he did prefer Tom to any- 
body else. And I couldn't complain of 
the letter Uncle sent me in reply to the 

not accept substitutes 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



One of tKe 
Dairy Farms- 

Carnatioiv 
Stock. 
Feirm 

near 

Seattle - 

which supplies 

Tresh Milk 

to our 

Condenseries 



Wkat Carnation Milk Is 

Carnation Milk is just pure fresh cow's milk that has been reduced 
to the consistency of cream by evaporating part of the water. It is 
then hermetically sealed, after which each can is sterilized, to preserve 
its wholesomeness. 

The flavor 

Carnation Milk does not taste just like raw milk. To reduce fresh milk to 
the consistency of cream it is necessary to evaporate part of the water. By 
removing this water you get a more concentrated flavor. This pronounced 
tast , is regarded as delicious, especially after several trials, and is your assur- 
ance of richness and safety. 

Why'fcu Should Use It 

It is absolutely safe — having been sterilized. It is economical — no waste — it 
keeps longer after opened. It is more convenient— you keep it on hand, in 
the kitchen or pantry always ready for use. It is always of uniform quality 
— the last drop is as clean — sweet — and pure as the first. It gives your 
coffee an added flavor — a touch of quality to cooking and baking. 

Write for new recipe booklet telling how to use Carnation Milk in place of 
raw milk or cream to greater advantage with perfect safety and economy. 




Paafic (oQSt Condensed Milk Co. 
134 Stuart Dlcj^. Seattle, Wash. 




Exhibit Palace 

Carnatioiv 

Milk. 
Condensery 

Panama-Pacific 
, Exposition 

San Erancisco 




Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
163 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Have 

you 

tried Kornlet? 





There's a big treat for you, 

if you haven't. 

Kornlet isn't canned corn — 

it's far better. Kornlet is the 

rich milk of young, nutritious 

green sweet corn, extracted just when the com 

hearts are plumpest and contain the most juice. 

Makes delicious soup and other dishes. 

An ideal summer food 

Kornlet is tempting and appetizing. It is particularly 
desirable for the sick and convalescent, on account of 
its nourishing and strength building qualities. 

Sold by prominent grocers 

Ask for Kornlet at your grocer's. If he hasn't it, we 
will send a full size can, prepaid, upon receipt of 
25 cents in stamps. 
Recipe Book Free— Write for copy of 
this book. Many suggestions for delight- 
ful Kornlet dishes. Sent free. 

The Haserot Canneries Co. 

413 Huron Road, Cleveland. O. 





BISCUIT CAKE p^^ PASTRY 



If you are using bread flour in your pastry 
baking, please remember that "WHITE PUFF" 
IS BETTER and CHEAPER. Shortening is 
more costly than flour. You save one ha^f 
your shortening with "White Puff* and you 
get lighter, less greasy, better-tasting food. 

South Hanovkr, Mass. 
I have used your White Puff Pastry Flour for 
several months, and find it even better than you 
claim for it. 

While I use only one-half the usual amount of 
shortening with the flour. I find my pastry is light 
and flaky, more delicious to taste, more economical, 
and I feel more wholesome than the ordinary pastry 
flour with double the shortening. 

1 take real pleasure in giving you my experience. 
Yours very truly, 

(Signed) ANNIE L. BURPEE. 

Ask your grocer for White Puff Flour or write to 

WM. S. HILLS COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 



second. It was just as nice as his first, 
although he did give a hint of surprise. 

"It was afterward that Uncle Dick 
showed himself most ohjectionable. Two 
weeks ago, when I found that, after all 
was said and done, it was really Clarence 
that I loved, I got a third letter from 
Uncle Dick — the brute! After acknowl- 
edging the receipt of my announcement 
he went on to say : 

" 'Permit me, my dear, to congratulate 
you on your approaching marriage to 



"Then he inserted one of those star 
signs (what do you call 'em — asterisks?) 
and added in a footnote : 'Here insert 
the name of the happy man !' " 



A Gastronomic Lover 

She rides and fences, golfs and swims, 

She's climbed Pike's Peak and Alpine passes, 
She writes critiques on rag-time hymns, 

And leads in all linguistic classes, 
She speaks Italian, Spanish, French, 

Dabbles a bit in Greek and German, 
Quotes law like judges on the bench, 

And well might wear official ermine. 

When she tees out the golfers stare, 

Noting her skill and pose athletic, 
"Ten up and eight to play so there ! 

Now isn't that just too pathetic?" 
She whistles like a nightingale, 

Drives four-in-hand, serene and steady. 
In auto races never pales, 

But turns the bar alert and ready. 

And yet this admirable maid 

So learned, fearless and athletic, 
Is, after all, I am afraid, 

Not up to matters dietetic. 
Then what to me are tons of books, 

Or golfing maids in fetching poses? 
Better the lore of skillful cooks 

That every day fresh art discloses. 

For she could plan no rich ragouts, 

No flaky muffins hot and tender. 
No juicy roast, delicious stews, 

Such as a skillful cook might render. 
Give me the nectar gods might share, 

Smooth, creamy salads, cooling ices 
And culinary truimphs, rare, 

Concocted by a cook's devices. 

Julia Mills Dunn. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
164 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Your Hot Weather Dessert 

When you want a palatable dessert on a hot day 
you can't find anything more tempting or more 
easy to make, than one of the cool, shim- 
mering jellies or ice creams 
described in the Minute 
Cook Book. 





Minute Gelatine is the easiest 
gelatine to use as it requires no 
soaking. It dissolves immediately in boiling water, 
broth or milk. It is also the surest for perfect re- 
sults as it is measured for you by weight — the only 
sure way of getting exactly the right quantity always. 
Each envelope (4 to a package) contains just the right 
amount for making one pint of jelly. It is the only 
gelatine packed in this way. 

You know some gelatine desserts, but have you 
tried Parisian Charlotte, Marshmallow Pudding, Peach 
Flummery, Prune Whirl or Fruit Snow with walnuts.? 

These and many other new and tempting dishes covering any course in the 
menu are described in the 

New Minute Cook Book Sent You Free 

Every woman should have this Httle book. We send it with enough Minute 
Gelatine for one day's dessert on receipt of your name and your grocer's. 



Currant Chartreuse; Run 2 cups 
red currants through a sieve. Stir 1 
envelope of Minute Gelatine with % 
cup sufar and dissolve in 1 pint of 
boiling water. Add the currants and 
turn into individual molds or one very- 
large mold. When cold serve garnished 
with whipped cream. 



Minute Tapioca Company 



509 E. Main St., Orange, Mass- 



Buy "advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
165 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



A Nev/ Kir\€f of 
Fi»-ele5x Cooker 

Send no money 

— Try it ten days free. 

Why be a slave to cooking? Here's a new kind 
of maid wiih no wages to pay. 

The Perfection Fireless Range 

Cooks your meals from Soup to Dessert while you 
'are away enjoying yourself. Can't burn or scorch. 
Gives all the time you want for leisure, social pleas- 
ures, sewing, reading, shopping or resting. 
Cuts fuel bills 80% — saves 25% on meat bills 
Thousands of satisfied users. A large complete out- 
fit of Wear-Ever brand aluminum cooking utensils 
free. Write for big illustrated free book explaining 
everything. Learn how you can use the "Perfection" 
10 days in your own kitchen — without paying 
a cent in advance 

and how a few cents a day is all you 
need pay if you keep i'c. 

Special Direct- 
^-f^ From -Factory Price 

( \ quoted to all who write at once. 

-^ Just say "Send your free book" on 
a postal, and our wonderful mes- 
sage of freedom from cooking 
drudgery will reach you 
by return post. Write 
this minute. Address 

JOHNSTON-SLOCUM 
COMPANY 




rv.y' 



MAKE CANDY at HOME 

for Pleasure or Profit 

No Experience Required 

You can make the finest and most delicious 
candies as good as sold in the store, at less than 
half the cost, adding to your income during your 
spare time and providing your friends with pure 
home-made candies by following out instructions 
in our book. 

"The Art of HOME CANDY MAKING 

This book fully illustrated and written by a 
practical confectioner contains standard profes- 
sional recipes for every kind of candy — tells what 
ingredients to use — explains mixing and boiling 
details and gives all the information you will need. 

Regular Price $1.50 Special Price $1.00 
delivered. 





Our special candy making outfit consisting of 

special Candy Boiling Thermometer, 4 Molds 
and Dipping Wire, will enable you to get 
excellent results from the start. 

Price $1.50 delivered 
or $2. 50 book and outfit. 

If you are not satisfied return book 
and outfit and receive your mortey . 

The Home Candy Makers 
Canton, Ohio 



The Bide-a-Wee House 

(Continued from page 117) 

tonne). In fact, Polly made every ef- 
fort to innoculate each room with the 
spirit of home and a sense of individu- 
ality — two things so sadly lacking in the 
average boarding house. 

Opening from the dining room is a 
large living room, all the boarder's own, 
where magazines and late books are al- 
ways on display. Borrowing an idea 
from the hotel parlors, she has installed 
a common writing desk and fitted it com- 
pletely with blotters, pen, ink, and a sup- 
ply of ''house stationery." For this, en- 
terprising Polly had some special paper 
printed bearing the name of her estab- 
lishment — ''The Bide-a-\\'ee" — which 
added further dignity to her undertak- 
ing. She keeps on hand a large supply 
of stamps of various denominations, and 
her patrons appreciate being able to buy 
a stamp from their landlady instead of 
walking around the corner to a drug- 
store. 

Perhaps, it is in her table management 
that Polly shines brightest. She has 
worked in restaurants long enough to 
know that elaborate cooking persisted in 
day after day is most palling to the hu- 
man appetite. So, when she plans her 
menus, she forgets that she has a small 
army to feed, and thinks only of her own 
little family table. As a result, there are 
most delightful surprises, and no nause- 
ating cases of "good food spoiled by too 
frequent serving." A suggestion box 
was a help to her in avoiding monotony. 
This was put up near the door, and 
everyone was invited to write on a slip 
of paper any special dish he craved or 
any other culinary suggestion he wished 
to offer, and drop it into the box. 

Another thing that made Polly popular 
was her practice of sending up a plate of 
sandwiches or a pot of coffee or lemon- 
ade to any one who requested it in the 
evening. A word to her in the morning 
that a guest expected to entertain a 
friend that evening would insure the 
preparation of the refreshments and the 
serving of them at the time appointed. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
166 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



for Dainty 



Desserts 



■_■-■> 



■vw 



■ ■-■ ■ ,. 



■ ■ ■ ■ : 

m 



■ ■ j_t ■ 



v.v. 



-V.V 



T 



'HE ever recurring question, "What 
Dessert" is easily answered in a 
pleasing way when you use Sea 
Moss Farine. You want something ta^y yet pure and 
wholesome. Sea Moss Farine is wholly vegetable, 
deliciously dainty and satisfies even the hard to please. 
Sea Moss Farine is the only stri<5tly VEGETABLE gelatine. It 
contains genuine, high grade sea moss, evaporated and concen- 
trated and in convenient powder form. 

Buy a package to-day and see how easily and happily you can 
settle the Dessert que^ion. 

SEA MOSS FARINE 

The Vegetable Gelatine, 

Try some of these tasty desserts. These are recipes by Madame Gesine Lemcke and 
have been tested at her Cooking School. Notice the Economy of Sea Moss Farine. One 
spoonful, costing only one and one-half cents maizes enough dessert for a family. 



Cocoanut Custard. 

Mix in a double boiler one teaspoonful Sea 
Moss Farine with halfcupful sugar, add three 
cups cold milk, the thin peel of one lemon, a 
sprinkle of salt, a half teaspoonful butter and 
boil lo minutes. Mix the yolks of 3 eggs with 
a little cold milk, add it to the Farine, stir 
and cook a few minutes, remove, add one-and 
a-half cupful fresh grated cocoanut, flavor 
with one teaspoonful vanilla. Pour in a glass 
dish and when cold beat the whites to a stiff 
froth, add onetablespoonful sugar and with a 
spoon put it in the shape of eggs on top of 
the custard and serve. 

Farine Muffins. 

Put into a saucepan one-and-a-halt cups oi 
milk, sprinkle a tablespoonful Sea Moss Fa- 
rine, boil hve minutes, remove from fire, add 
half tablespoonful butter, mix well, then add 
two tablespoonfuls sugar, three tablespoon- 
fuls flour, half teaspoonful baking powder, 
yolk of one egg, the white beaten stiff. Pour 
into muflin pans and bake 10 to 15 minutes. 



Food for Children's Supper. 

Sea Moss Farine is so nourishing and sat- 
isfying that it forms an ideal evening meal. 
Put one pint of milk into a saucepan, sprinkle 
a tablespoonful of Sea Moss Farine, boil five 
minules, add yolks of two eggs, beat thor- 
oughly and heat over the fire a minute or so, 
then set aside ; beat the whites of the two 
eggs very stiff, add one tablespoonful pow- 
dered sugar, mix and drop by spoonfuls onto 
the hot mixture, cover quickly so the heat will 
cook the white of egg dumplings and letstand 
until cold. Serve with zwieback. 

Vanilla Blanc-Mange. 

Put one cupful sugar in a double boiler, add 
two teaspoonfuls Sea Moss Farine, mix to- 
gether, add one quart milk, a sprinkle of salt, 
cover and cook ten minutes, stirring occasion- 
ally. Flavor with two teaspoonfuls vanilla, 
pour into six or eight cups previously rinsed 
with cold water. Serve ice cold with fruit 
sauce or cream, or the blanc-mange ma3' be 
poured into a form. 



Our Recipe Book (FREE) contains many directions for making nourishing 
Hot Weather dishes and Beverages, Ice Cream, Etc. 

A 25 cent package yields 16 quarts of Desserts. 
SOLD BY GROCERS OR MAILED BY US 

Send for FREE Sample and Recipe Book. 

LYON MANUFACTURING CO., 36 South Fifth Street, BROOKLYN, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods 



- do not accept substitutes 
167 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Preserve: 



t \ 



vi^ ¥V I LL 

KEEP 

IF YOU USE 

I2UBBER RINQS 

Do you know that the rubber 
ring you use m preserving is the 
most important item? 

Cheap rubber rings harden, crack, 
and let in air; and your preserves 
"work" and spoil. 

Good Luck rings keep out the air 

indefinitely. Made of live rub- 

J^ ber, extra wide, thick, soft and 

fl|j tough and will not taint the 

mi ^^"'^' 

|9f Send 10 cents for Package oi 1 Dozen 

HHr if your dealer hasn't them in slock 

W OUR FREE BOOKLET 

"Good Luck in^ Preserving" tells why preserves 
spoil and how to prevent it. It also contains 
36 unusual and practical preserving recipes 
never before published and 80 gum- 
med and printed Jar labels. 
Write for it now 

BOSTON WOVEN HOSE 
8 RUBBER CO. 

-^\M Dept. No. 3 

■A^^ CAMBRIDGE 

Im \ MASS. 




MESM 




Desserts-Ice Cream 

"MADE IN A JIFFY" 

DAINTY SUMMER DESSERTS WHICH 
HAVE A FOOD VALUE 

Good for Milk Sherbet 

Good for Nesnah Pudding 
Just Add Warm Milk 




Good for Ice Cream 

Nesnah makes the best ice cream you ever ate. 
For 4 quarts ice cream, heat 2 quarts milk just 
luke warm ; add 2}4 packages Nesnah, stirring one 
half minute; let stand undisturbed in freezer ten 
minutes; freeze in usual way to a thick mush, then 
add ^2 pint heavy cream and continue to freeze. 
No sugar, no flavoring to add. 

SIX FLAVORS 

VANILLA RASPBERRY 

CHOCOLATE ALMOND 

ORANGE LEMON 

10 cents a Package 

Enough for a quart of Milk 



Samples sent free. 
Full size package 
and recipes on re- 
ceipt of 10 cents. 



PREPARED BY 

Chr. Hansen's 

Laboratory 

"The Junket Folks" 

Box 2507 
LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 







THE JUNKET FOLKS 



OttHanscfiS LalxMatoiy. little fkBs.NI 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
168 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



THE GOOD HOUSEWIFE IS CAREFUL OF 
THE OLIVE OIL SHE BUYS 



it 



FLORENTINE LILY BRAND 

Is the Purest, Richest Olive Oil Produced 



>> 



The first pressing of the slow maturing olives, grown 
near Genoa and Belmonte, Italy, rich and with a linger- 
ing flavor that is delicious, is the best for table of medici- 
nal uses. 

DIRECT TO YOU BY MAIL (PREPAID) 

AT A LOWER PRICE THAN USUAL FOR SUCH QUALITY 

For the protection ( from adulteration) and convenience 

of our American friends, we have opened an American 

office to make its distribution to you more direct, and less 

expensive. Consequently, these are the prices. 

In Sealed Cans 

■ $3.65 

- $1.90 

- $1.00 
. $ .60 

■ $ .30 

"FLORENTINE 

LILY 

OLIVE OIL" 



Gallon 
Half-GaUon 
Quart 
Pint - 
Half-Pint - 




Awarded Star by the Bureau of 
Foods, Sanitation and Health of the 
Good Housekeeping Magazine. 

OLIVE PLANTER'S 

ASSOQATION 

Dept. "A" 

Masonic Building Gramercy 4 1 06 

7 1 West 23rd Street. New York 



'(^teUOREs 

OUvEOIL 



BORDEN'S 
BETTER BABIES 

Make yoar baby a "better baby" by giving him the food that 
has bailt three generations of happy boys and girls — 



^Cc<C '/3crr^^t->u 



Condensed 
MILK 

THE ORIGINAL 

gUMMER-TIMEis danger-time for babies. 
Protect your baby against summer ailments. 
If you cannot nurse your baby give him nour- 
ishing "Eagle Brand." He will grow plump 
and rosy on it. Pure— safe — easy to prepare. 
Send today for our helpful book, "Baby's 
Welfare," whicti tells how to safeguard your 
baby against summer troubles. 

Borden's Condensed Milk Co. 

"Leaders of 
Quality" 

lOSHudsonSt. 
NEW YORK 





ITS EASY TO 

BAKE PERfECT 

CAKES 



Mudge Patent Canner 



The modern way of canning fruits and vegetables 
A HOUSEHOLD NECESSITY 



Write for information 



BIDDLE-GAUMER COMPANY 

3846-56 Lancaster Avenue, Philadelphia, Pa. 



PLOUR well sifted is a cake half 
^ baked. Only light and fluffy flour 
makes light baking, therefore you 
want the best flour sifter. The old 
fashioned way of sifting from pan to 
pan is slow, 

wasteful, unsanitary. 

Sift without waste — do 

it quicker and better by 

using a 

2-IN-l SIFTER 

(Tested and Approved by Good House - 
keeping Institute) 
Place flour in upper glass bowl, sift to 
lower bowl, then turn sifter and re-sift as 
often as desired. No flour wasted — no 
time lost. Price $1.00, prepaid (Three 
for $2.00.) With Grinder, below, 
for $2.50. 

KNIFE GRINDER, $2.00 

Just the thing for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, etc. 
Fastens to table or shelf. Turns easy with one hand. Enclosed 
gears give great speed. Knife guideinsures even 
edge. Sent prepaid for $2.00, or with 
our famous 2-in-l Flour Sifter (reg. 
price $1.00) for only $2.50. Every 
housewife needs them both. Order today. 
AGENTS AND DEALERS WANTED. 
Write for our liberal i)roi)iii*ition. 

WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO. 

858 THIRD ST., MILWAUKEE, WIS. 



I 





Buy advertised Goods 



- do not accept substitutes 
169 • 



ADVERTISEMENTS 







A Guide to Laundry Work 

A MANUAL FOR HOME AND SCHOOL 

By MARY D. CHAMBERS, B. S., A M. 

Formerly instructor of Normal Classes in Domestic Science 

and of Normal and Technical Classes in Laundry 

Work, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn. N. Y. 

ILLUSTRATED, 75 CENTS NET 

A practical and up-to-date text-book on this 
important subject, written by an authority. 


Please the palate and save the 
stomach by eating more good bread 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

makes good bread and various 
other toothsome things. Our new 
recipe book tells how— free for the 
asking. 


The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 


We will send a copy " on approval " to any 
interested teacher or superintendent. 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 
Boston, Massachusetts 




Domestic Science 

Home-Study Courses 

Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. 
For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins : " Free Hand 
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents 
"The Up-to-Date Home," 15 cents. 

AM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS. 503 W. 69ih St.. CHICAGO 




These cradejnark cms-cross line? on every package 

fSLIIllilllHinlBk^^ ^'''' 

II LU 1 ^^\^O^tH diabetics 

Kidney andUver3^r^!^nmad^ 

and Uh ar^ f^^cesi\fUric Acid 
Rich in Protejjir Askjm^T p^ician^^eading grocera. 

FARWE1/& RfflVES. Watrft'oM^.Y.li.S.A. 



A MANUAL FOR STUDENTS 
OF HOME ECONOMICS 



Principles of Food Preparation 

By MARY D. CHAMBERS, B.S., A.M. 

Formerly Instructor of Normal Classes in Domestic Science, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, N. Y .• Professor of 
Domestic Economy and Head of the Department, The James Milliken University, Decatur, Illinois; Professor 
of Chemistry and Home Economics, and Head of the Departments, Rock ford College, Rock ford, Illinois 



CLOTH, 272 PAGES, 37 ILLUSTRATIONS, $L00 NET, POSTAGE 15 CENTS 



Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the Inductive System. Each chapter has five parts: 
I — Selected recipes, great variety from which to choose, selected because they illustrate the principles studied in the chapter. II — 
List of topics for study or discussion, the topics including correlated subjects, bearing on the work of the chapter. Ill — Qyestions on 
the lesson, so framed as to stimulate in the student the ability to generalize. IV — Practical exercises to encourage original application 
of the principles learned. V — Several smiple experiments in the chemistry and analysis of food. 

Valuable appendices. A series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased and the 1 00 colorie portion of the same foods cooked 
Time tables for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students. 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 



By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Teacher of Cookinn iti the l^nblic 
Schools of Brookline, Mass. 



CLOTH, 272 PAGES, ILLUSTRATED, $1.00 NET, POSTAGE 15 CENTS 



THIS BOOK is desig-ned for the use of teachers in the elementary schools and also for use as a text book in such schools when a text book on 
cooking is desired. The book is divided into thirty-seven chapters or lessons, and contains a full and complete course in cooking, besides outlining 
snpplementary work. This is just the book for which teachers and schools have been looking. Indeed, we do not see how any teacher of cooking 
can be without this book. 



THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY 

BOSTON. MASS. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
170 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



^ticty Refrigerators 
Iiv Your 
OwnHofiwe 



.ttvVo^ 





Direct 

from I 

lory to 3 

freight I 

and 

days' free trial in youi 

own home. 




A postal brings you 
handsome book of famous 
refrigerators, showing 
latest improvements in 
beautv, con venience, sani- 
tation and ice economy. If 
you are looking for some- 
thing extra fine, yet low- 
priced, learn how to buy 

The Great 

R- m SANITARY . 
errigerator 

Eic'.ush-e features: roand metal body, no wood t«wiirp, 
mould or crack; enameled snowy-white inside and out; 
revolTing shelves; cork-cushione-l doors and coTers — - 
noiseless and air-tieht; drink'ne- water coil, with por- 
celain reiervoir attachable to city water system if 
desireil. Catalog tells about other important features. 
Tenth year of leaderrhip. 25 Tear pniarantee. Lasts 
aliCetime. Freight paid anywhere in U.S. Posta!brings 
free catalog, quotes factory prices, easy terms and won- 
derful trial offer. White Ffost Refrigerator Co. 
613 Mechanic Street Jackson, Mich. ^ 



Highest Quality at Lowest Price 



lHEI5EY'5 



GLASSWARE i 



A. H. HEISEY & CO, 



DEPT. 5( 



NEWARK 



LESSONS IN COOKING ^JTSt.'Lu 

2bb scaaonable meniu with detailed redpe* »nd hJl direcrionj *or^pre- 
anng each meal Food FcoEomy; Balanced Tiet, Menus for all ^^cca- 
long, Special Articles, etc Bound m waterproof leatherette. 480 pp. 
Sent on approval for 50c and 50c for 4 monthi or $2 Cath 

W, 69th St., Chicago, lU, 



Uuitrated. 

Sample Page» Free^ 
Lmerican School of Home Economic* 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALWAYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME 





America's 

Most Famous 

Dessert 

For the most dainty, delicious 
and beautiful dishes at home 
and in the sick-room and hospital, use Jell-O. 

It has the combined qualities of the acid jellies 
and calves-foot jellies. It is not only exceedingly 
pleasing to the eye and of delightful flavor, but 
it greatly facilitates digestion and conserves the 
body's nitrogen. 

No fussy directions, no loss of time, no cook- 
ing, but just the making up of Jell-O in a minute 
in the easy Jell-O way. 

Seven pure fruit flavors: 
Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon, 
Orange, Cherry, Peach, Chocolate. 

10c. each at any grocer's. 

There is a little recipe book in 
every package. 

THE GENESEE PURE 

FOOD CO., 

Le Roy, N. Y., and 

Bridgeburg, Can. 




STICKNEY 

AND 

POOR'S 
EXTRACTS 



ONE 

OUNCE 

BOTTLES 



10 



Sold Everywhere 



STICKNEY & POOR SPICE CO. 

BOSTON 




CENTS 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitute; 
171 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



PREMIUMS 



Experience has shown that the most satisfactory way to 

enlarge the subscription list of American Cookery is through its present 
subscribers, who, personally, can vouch for the value of the publication. 
To make it an object for subscribers to secure new subscribers, we offer the 
following premiums : 

r^OJ'yj)J'PJO]\5; Premiums are not given with a subscription or for a renewal, but only 
to present subscribers, for securing and sending to us new yearly sub- 
scriptions at $1.00 each. The number of new subscriptions required to secure each premium is 
clearly stated below the description of each premium. 

Transportation is or i5 not paid as stated. 

Our Premiums are standard ^oods. Just such as are sold at the better stores, are well worth the price. 

and have |{iven universal satisfaction. 




BREAD 
MAKER 

Makes perfect bread 
in three minutes. 
Use any yeast, flour 
or recipe. 

Sent for four (4) 
new subscriptions, 
express charges to be 
paid by receiver. 
Cash price, $2.25. 



CAKE 
MAKER 

The easiest way of mak- 
ing the best cakes. Beats 
eggs, whips cream, etc., etc. 



Sent for three (3) new subscriptions, express 
charges to be paid by receiver. Cash price, $2.00. 





ELECTRIC STOVE 

Nickel-plated, ebonized handles, best make. Heating surface 7 ; 
inches x 4)4 inches. Depth, frying pan IX inches, boihng pan 2 
inches, griddle % inch. Has a toaster on the bottom. Uses either 
direct or alternating current. Complete with cord and plug. 

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receiver. Cash price, $5.00. 



GOLDEN ROD CAKE PAN 



For "Waldorf Triangles," "Golden Rod Cake," 
"Orange Slice Cake," and many other fancy 
cakes. Substantially made of the best tin. Sent 
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bread, steamed pud- 
dings, etc., etc. 

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"UTILITY" TEN PIECE COMBINATION SET 

^fade of Pure Spun Aluminum. This Set Contains or Makes 

1st Windsor Kettle. 2nd Pudding Pan, 3rd Steaming Tray or Collander, 4th Pie Plate. Sth Cereal 

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9th Covered Stew Kettle. 10th Deep Roaster. 11th Bean Baker. 12th Egg Poacher or Custard Baker. 

All the above are practical. Sent prepaid, as premium for (5) new subscribers. Cash price $3.50 




TRIPLICATE SAUCEPAN 

Aluminum, detachable handle. Cooks three things at once, on one 

cover. Convenient and a fuel saver. 

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3 PINT ALUMINUM DOUBLE BOILER 




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SAVES TIME 
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IMPORTED APPLE TREE 
SPOON 



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PRINCESS PATTY TINS 



FOR- 



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H cup of Butter 

^ cup of Sugar 

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Brownies 

1 Egg, well beaten 
1 cup of Flour 
1 cup of Nut3, Pecan or 
Walnuts 



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Mix in the usual manner but without separating 
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STEEL DRAWN MOULDS 

For Jellies, Puddings, Custards, 
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Are so snaped that the contents readily comes 

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These moulds ordinarily sell for 25c. pint size, 
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Climax Serrated Ed^e Knife Set — 3 Knives, Bread, Cake, Parinti 




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HANDY FRUIT 

AND 

VEGETABLE 

SLICER 

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SWEDISH 

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as illustrated, are used to make dainty, flaky 
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Magic Cover for Pastry Boards and Rolling 
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The only reliable and sure 
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THERMOMETER 

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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 




"EMPTY, BY HECK!" 
Painted by Edward V. Brewer for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright 1915 by Cream of Wheat Co. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
177 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XX OCTOBER, 1915 No. 3 



CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR HALLOWEEN SUPPERS 185 

OPPORTUNITY FOR WOMEN (Illustrated) Ethel M. Johnson 187 

LET'S JUST BE GLAD Christine Kerr Davis 193 

TEA AND THE TOURIST (Illustrated) Blanche McManus 194 

WORK OF THE WITCHES Alice May Ashton 202 

EDITORIALS 206 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M. Hill 209 

MENUS FOR TEA-ROOMS OR HOMES . . „ „ „ 217 
MENUS, BALANCED, FOR A WEEK IN OCTOBER 

Janet M. Hill 218 

NEW WAY OF USING FOOD-TABLES Mrs. E. T. Brewster 219 

A MERRY MARAUDER .... Harriet Whitney Symonds 220 

CAMPING THE YEAR ROUND . . Minnie Caroline Clark 221 

PINK HOLLYHOCKS Clara Seaman Chase 223 

THE IDEAL KITCHEN OF TODAY . . George E. Walsh 224 

ON MOTHER'S BAKING DAY . . . Ruth E. Livingston 226 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 227 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 231 

NEW BOOKS 238 

THE SILVER LINING 242 

MISCELLANEOUS 246 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times A Year lOc A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. 
Copyright. 1915. by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASS. 



Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

178 





ADVERTISEMENTS 



Make your food more 

tempting with Cottolene 

For making cakes, pies and pastry — for all shortening 
and frying — Cottolene is supreme. 

Cottolene is an exact combination of the pvirest, richest, 
most carefully refined cottonseed oil and the choicest 
beef stearine obtained from selected, high grade leaf 
beef suet Cottolene is itself one of the purest of 
pure foods. 

Cottolene makes foods more digestible — more whole- 
some—makes them taste better. Use it for every 
kind of shortening and frying and for making cakes 
and pastries. 

Cottolene 

For a quarter of a century Cottolene has been growing steadily 
in favor. It is not offered as a substitute or as being "just as 
good" as other shortening and frying fats. It is an original 
product and better than anything else that you can use for short- 
ening or fiying Insist on getting real Cottolene. 

Cottolene is ready for use as you take it from the pail. It creams 
up beautifully and blends readily with the flour. 

Use a third less of Cottolene than of any other short- 
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frying. Cottolene does not absorb tastes or odors. 
Always heat Cottolene slowly. 

Pails of various sizes, to serve your convenience. 
Arrange with your grocer for a regular supply. 

Write our General Offices, Chicago, for a free copy of 
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179 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




SLADE'S 



APPROVED BY FOOD EXPERTS 

BECAUSE OF THEIR 

PURITY AND EXCELLENCE 

Ask Grocers for SLADE'S 

D. L. SLADE CO , BOSTON 



We have an 

2ittraetive 

Proposition 

to make to those who will lake sub- 
scriptions for 

American Gooliery 

Write us for it if you wish to canvass 
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at once and you will be surprised how 
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Address 
SUBSCRIPTION DEPARTMENT 

Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



INDEX FOR OCTOBER. 

Page 

Camping the Year Round 221 

Editorials 206 

Home Ideas and Economies 227 

Ideal Kitchen of Today, The 224 

Let's Just Be Glad 193 

Menus 185, 217 

Merry Marauder, A 220 

New Way of Using Food- tables 219 

On Mother's Baking Day 226 

Opportunity for Women, 111 187 

Pink Hollyhocks 223 

Silver Lining, The 242 

Tea and the Tourist, 111 194 

Work of the Witches 202 

Seasonable Recipes: 

Balls, Popcorn, 111 216 

Blancmange, Sea Moss Farine 213 

Bombe Glace, Orange and Pineapple. . . 212 

Cake, Best, 111 215 

Cake, White 215 

Cakes, Halloween, 111 216 

Calf's Liver en Begue 209 

Chicken, Mississippi Style 209 

Chicken, Stewed with Oysters 209 

Chicken and Komlet, Scalloped 210 

Conserve, Plum 214 

Cream, Pineapple 213 

Egg Plant, Creole Style, 111 211 

Filling, Coffee 215 

Frosting, Maple Nut, 111 215 

Icing, Chocolate Marshmallow 215 

Jelly, Tomato, 111 211 

Johnny Cake, Rhode Island 212 

Muffins, Commeal, 111 212 

Pears, Frozen Canned, 111 214 

Preserves, Pineapple and Pear 214 

Relish, Corn 213 

Salad, Peach, Celery and White 

Grape, 111 213 

Salad, Porto Rico 212 

Tomatoes and Okra, Scalloped, 111 210 

Veal, Brown Fricassee of 210 

Vegetables in Tomato Jelly, Maj'onnaise 

of, 111 211 

Wafers, Mrs. Hill's Laxative 214 

QUERi^ES AND AnSW'EKS: 

Bread-Making, Teaching 234 

Cake, Angel, Fryeburg Recipe 231 

Canning Chicken 232 

Canning Fruit, Teaching 234 

Chili Sauce, Light Colored 234 

Cocktail Fork, Place of, at Table 234 

Crabmeat, Imperial 234 

Custard, Com, Mexican St^de 236 

Devil's Food 231 

Filling, Marshmallow 231 

Flour, Name of Pastry 232 

Frosting, Marshmallow 231 

Herbs, Sweet 234 

Menus for Light Refreshment, Evening. 231 

Mousse, Chicken 236 

Pudding, Corn 234. 236 

Rehsh, Philadelphia 236 

Rice Cakes, Japanese 234 

Sausage, Cereal and Nut 232 

Turnovers, Light Flaky 232 

Vinegar without Fruit Juice 232 



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- do not accept substitutes 
180 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Mrs. Rorer's 

Famous 

Cookery Books 

fit the needs of the housewife. They are a Uve help in 
everyday Hfe, and make work Hghter and better. They give 
the best practical information, tell how to market economi- 
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foods, and give an abundance of choice recipes to make the 
daily living a perfect delight. 

Philadelphia Cook Book 

Cloth, $1.00; by mail, $1.15 
Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substitutes 

Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65 
Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book 

Cloth, $2.00; by mail, $2.20 
Every Day Menu Book 

Cloth, $1.50; by mail, $1.65 

Diet for the Sick 

Just out. Cloth, $2.00; by mail, $2.15 

My Best 250 Recipes \ ^j 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. . . / 75 cent* 

Canning and Preserving \ e»ch 

New Salads \ 80 c""u 

Dainties J «ach 

How to Use a Chafing Dish . . \ 

Sandwiches I Cloth 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs / 50 cents 

Made-Over Dishes I ***^** 

Home Candy Making / by mail 

Hot Weather Dishes I 55 cents 

Cakes, Icings and Fillings I each 

Bread and Bread Making ) 

Sold by all Book Stores and Department Stores, or 
ARNOLD & COMPANY, 420 Sansom Street, Philadelphia 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
181 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Books on Household Economics 



THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY presents the following as a 
list of representative works on household economics. Any of the books will be sent post- 
paid upon receipt of price. 
With an order amounting to $5 or more, at list prices, we include a year's subscription 
to AMERICAN COOKERY (price $1). 

Special rates made to schools, clubs and persons wishing a number of books. Write for 
quotation on the list of books you wish. We carry a very large stock of these books. One order 
to us saves effort and express charges. 



1.00 
1.50 
1.00 



1.00 

1.00 

1.50 
1.50 
1.80 



A-B-Z of Our Own Nutrition. Horace 

Fletcher $1.00 

American Cook Book. Mrs. J. M. Hill 1.00 
American Salad Book. M. DeLoup... 
Around the World Cook Book. Barroll 
Art of Entertaining. Madame Mesri 
Art of Home Candy-Making (with 

thermometer, dipping wire, etc.) 2.50 

Art of Right Living. Richards 50 

Baby, The. A book for mothers and 

nurses. D. R. Brown, M. D 

Bacteria, Yeasts and Molds in the 

Home. H. W. Conn 

Book of Entrees. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 
Book of Good Manners. Kingsland... 
Boston Cook Book. Mary J. Lincoln. 
Boston Cooking School Cook Book. 

Fannie M. Farmer 1.80 

Boston School Kitchen Text Book. 

Mary J. Lincoln 80 

Bread and Bread-making. Mrs. Rorer .50 
Bright Ideas for Entertaining. Linscott .50 
Cakes, Icings and Fillings. Mrs. Rorer 
Cakes, Cake Decorations and Desserts. 

King . . 

Candy Making Revolutionized. Mary 

Elizabeth Hall 

Canning and Preserving. Mrs. Rorer 
Canning, Preserving and Pickling. 

Marion H. Neil 

Care and Feeding of Children. L. E. 

Holt, M. D 

Care of a Child in Health. N. Oppen- 

heim 

Care of a House. T. M. Clark 1.50 

Carving and Serving. Mary J. Lincoln .50 
Catering for Special Occasions. Farmer 1.00 
Century Cook Book. Mary Roland.. 2.00 
Chemistry in Daily Life. Lessar-Cohn 1.75 
Chemistry of Cookery. W. Mattieu 

Williams 1.50 

Chemistry of Cooking and Cleaning 

Richards and Elliott 1.00 

Chemistry of Familiar Things. Sadtler 1.75 
Chemistry of Food and Nutrition. 

Sherman 1.50 

Clean Milk. S. D. Belcher 1.00 

Cleaning and Renovating. E. G. Osman .75 
Color, Harmony and Contrast. Jas. 

Wood 4.20 

Complete Home, The. Clara E. 

Laughlin 1.25 

Cook Book for Nurses. Sarah C. Hill .75 
Cooking for Two. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Cost of Clearmess. Richards 1.00 

Cost of Food. Richards 1.00 



.50 

1.00 

.75 
.75 

1.00 

.75 

1.25 



Cost of Living. Richards $1.00 

Cost of Shelter. Richards 1.00 

Dainties. Mrs. Rorer 75 

Dietetic Value of Bread. John Good- 
fellow 1.50 

Diet for the Sick. Mrs. Rorer 2.00 

Diet in Relation to Age and Activity. 

Thompson 1.00 

Dictionary of Cookery. Cassell 2.50 

Domestic Art in Woman's Education. 

Cooley 1.25 

Domestic Science in Elementary 

Schools. Wilson 1.00 

Domestic Service. Lucy M. Salmon.. 2.00 

Dust and Its Dangers. Pruden 75 

Economics of Modern Cookery. M. M. 

Mallock 1.00 

Efficient Kitchen. Child 1.25 

Elements of the Theory and Practice 

of Cookery. Williams and Fisher... 1.00 
Equipment for Teaching Domestic 

Science. Kinne 80 

Etiquette of New York Today. 

Learned 1.35 

Etiquette of Today. Ordway 50 

European and American Cuisine. 

Lemcke 2.50 

Euthenics. Richards 1.00 

Every Day Menu Book. Mrs. Rorer.. 1.50 
Expert Waitress. A. F. Springsteed. . 1.00 

Family Food. O'Donnell 1.00 

First Principles of Nursing. Anne R. 

Manning 1.00 

Food and Cookery for the Sick and 

Convalescent. Fannie M. Farmer 1.60 

Food and Dietaries. R. W. Burnett 

M. D 1.50 

Food and Feeding. Sir Henry 

Thompson 1.35 

Food & Flavor. Finck 2.00 

Food and Household Management. 

Kinne and Cooley 1.10 

Food and Its Function. James Knight 1.00 
Food and Nutrition. Bevier and 

Ushir 1.00 

Food and the Principles of Dietetics. 

Hutchinson 3.50 

Food for the Invalid and the Convales- 
cent. Gibbs 75 

Food in Health and Disease. L B. 

Yeo, M. D 2.50 

Food Materials and Their Adultera- 
tions. Richards 1.00 

Food Products of the World. Mary E. 

Green 1.5A 

Food Values. Locke J.25 



Buy advertised Goods 



-do not accept substitutes 
182 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Franco-American Cookery Book. De- 

liee $3.50 

Fuels of the Household. Marian White. .75 
Golden Rule Cook Book (600 Recipes 

for Meatless Dishes). Sharpe 2.00 

Grocer's Encyclopaedia 10.00 

Guide to Modern Cookery. M. Escoffier 4.00 
Handbook of Home Economics. Flagg .75 
Handbook of Hospitality for Town 

and Country. Florence H. Hall ... 1.50 
Handbook of Invalid Cooking. Mary 

A. Boland 2.00 

Handbook on Sanitation. G. M. Price, 

M. D 1.50 

Health and Longevity Through Ra- 
tional Diet. Dr. Arnold Lorand .... 2.50 
Healthful Farm House, The. Helen 

Dodd 60 

Home Candy Making. Mrs. Rorer ... .50 
Home Economics. Maria Parloa .... 1.50 

Home Economics Movement 75 

Home Furnishings. Hunter 2.00 

Home Nursing. Harrison 1.00 

Home Problems from a New Stand- 
point 1.00 

Home Science Cook Book. Anna Bar- 
rows and Mary J. Lincoln 1.00 

Homes and Their Decoration. French 3.00 

Hot Weather Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

House Sanitation. Talbot 80 

Household Bacteriology. Buchanan.. 2.25 
Household Economics. Helen Campbell 1.50 
Household Physics. Alfred M. Butler. 1.30 

Household Textiles. Gibbs 1.25 

How To Cook for the Sick and Con- 
valescent. H. V. Sachse 1.00 

How To Feed Children. Louise E. 

Hogan 1.00 

How to Use a Chafing Dish. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

Human Foods. Snyder 1.25 

Ice Cream, Water Ices, etc. Rorer ... .75 

I Go A Marketing. Sowle 1.50 

Institution Recipes. Smedley 1.25 

International Cook Book. Filippini .. 1.00 

Kitchen Companion. Parloa 2.50 

Laboratory Handbook for Dietetics. 

^ Rose 1.10 

Lessons in Cooking Through Prepara- 
tion of Meals 2.00 

Lessons in Elementary Cooking. Mary 

C. Jones 1.00 

Luncheons. Mary Roland 1.40 

A cook's picture book; 200 illustrations. 

Made-over Dishes. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Many Ways for Cooking Eggs. Mrs. 

Rorer 50 

Menu Book and Register of Dishes. 

Senn 2.50 

My Best 250 Recipes. Mrs. Rorer ... .75 
New Book of Cookery, A. Fannie M. 

Farmer 1.60 

New Hostess of Today. Earned 1.50 

New Salads. Mrs. Rorer J5 

Nursing, Its Principles and Practice. 
Isabel H. Robb 2.00 



Nutrition of Man. Chittenden $3.00 

Old Age Deferred. Dr. Arnold Lorand 2.50 
Old Time Recipes for Home Made 

Wines. Helen S. Wright 1.50 

One Woman's Work for Fzu-m Women .50 
Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving. 

Mrs. Mary F. Henderson 1.50 

Practical Cooking and Serving. Mrs. 

Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Practical Dietetics. Gilman Thompson 5.00 
Practical Dietetics with Reference to 

Diet in Disease. Pattee 1.50 

Practical Home Making. Kittredge . . .60 
Practical Points in Nursing. Emily 

A. M. Stoney 1.75 

Practical Sewing and Dressmaking. 

Allington 1.50 

Principles of Food Preparation. Mary 

D. Chambers 1.00 

Principles of Home Decoration. Can- 
dace Wheeler 1.80 

Principles of Human Nutrition. Jordan. 1.75 
Recipes and Menus for Fifty. Frances 

Lowe Smith 1.50 

Rorer's (Mrs.) New Cook Book 2.00 

Salads and Sauces. Murray 50 

Salads, Sandwiches, and Chafing Dish 

Dainties. Mrs. Janet M. Hill 1.50 

Sandwiches. Mrs. Rorer 50 

Sanitation in Daily Life. Richards ... .60 
Selection and Preparation of Food. 

Brevier and Meter . . . ^. 75 

Sewing Course for Schools. Woolman 1.50 
Shelter and Clothing. Kinne and Cooley 1.10 
Story of Germ Life. H. W. Conn .50 

Soyer's Standard Cookery 1.50 

Sunday Night Suppers. Christine Ter- 

hune Herrick 1.00 

The New Housekeeping. Christine 

Frederick 1.00 

The Story of Textiles 3.00 

The Up-to-Date Waitress. Mrs. Janet 

M. Hill 1.50 

The Woman Who Spends. Bertha J. 

Richardson 1.00 

Till the Doctor Comes, and How To 

Help Him 1.00 

Vegetable Cookery and Meat Substi- 
tutes. Mrs. Rorer 1.50 

Vegetarian Cookery. A. G. Payne 50 

With a Saucepan Over the Sea. Ade- 
laide Keen 1.50 

Women and Economics. Charlotte 

Perkins Stetson 1.50 

Woman's Share in Primitive Culture. 

Otis J. Mason 1.75 

World's Commercial Products, The .. 3.60 



Library of Home Economics; 



The House 

Household Bacteriology 
Household Hygiene 
Chemistry of the Household 
Principles of Cookery 
Food and Dietetics 



Household Management 
Personal Hygiene 
Home Care of the Sick 
Textiles and Clothing 
Study of Child Life 
Care of Children 



May be pui chased as a set or singly at $1.50 a volume 



Address all Orders: THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
183 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




Armours 

Simon Pure 
Leaf Lard 

y^ farther 






M 




IGURE it! Three spoonfuls of 
"Simon Pure" go as far as four 
spoonfuls of ordinary lard. 

This extra richness of "SimonPure" 
comes from selecting choicest leaf 
fat and rendering by Armour's 
scientific adaption of the proven, 
old-time, open-kettle method. 

Simon Pure," the perfect shortening, 
is packed in air-tight pails and always 
reaches you in its original purity. 

Simon Pure" maintains the supreme 
quality-standard of Armour's Oval 
Label Products. 

ARMOUR^COMPANY 

CHICAGO 
Distributing through 385 Branches, 
each managed by a Food Expert. 





Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
184 



Menus for Halloween Suppers 



I 



Hot Bacon Sandwiches 

Potato Salad 

Pickles Olives 

Toasted Marshmallows 

Pop Corn Balls 

Apples 

II 

Hot Cheese Sandwiches 

(Chafing Dish) 
Cucumber Sandwiches 
Yeast Doughnuts, Sugared 
Coffee 
Molasses Candy- 
Caramels 

III 

Oyster Salad 

Buttered Rolls 

Chocolate E'clairs 

Gingersnaps 

Coffee 

Roasted Chestnuts 

Apples 





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American Cookery 



Vol. XX 



OCTOBER, 1915 



No. 3 



Opportunity for Women 

By Ethel M. Johnson 



THE rapid transformation of down- 
town Boylston Street, within the 
last generation, to a fashionable 
shopping district has left few reminders 
of its earlier character as a residential 
section. A landmark from these days 
of the past is the unpretentious brick 
building at 264, just opposite the Public 
Garden. Its outward appearance, still 
presenting the conventional four-family 
dwelling house, gives little suggestion 
of the varied activities conducted within 
its walls under the name of the Women's 
Educational and Industrial Union. If, 
however, the home of the Union suggests 
the past, the Union itself expresses the 
progressive spirit of today. In the work 
that it has chosen, it has not only kept 
abreast of the times, but has in a number 
of instances led the way. 

A practical means of helping women 
to help themselves — such was the pur- 
pose with which the Union was started 
in 1877. From a modest beginning 
with forty-two members it has grown 
into an organization embracing more 
than four thousand. And out of what 
was originally a social impulse has de- 
veloped many far-reaching educational 
opportunities. 

At first, the field of work was the 
Union's immediate neighborhood, the 
social spirit finding expression in helping 
the woman just around the corner; 
today the same spirit of service animates 
the work, but the scope has greatly 
broadened and its basis has shifted 



from remedial work with the individual 
to the conditions which make remedial 
work necessary. Hence the Union's 
interest in industrial training for women, 
which has come to be its distinctive 
characteristic. 

It is this underlying educational 
purpose that unites the various de- 
partments of the Union, which to the 
outsider seem so puzzlingly unrelated. 
To many Bostonians still, the Union 
stands simply for the shop where the 
most delicious cakes and candies in 
the city may be purchased, or as the 
lunch rooms where one may enjoy the 
finest of home cooking. The fact that 
these and the other industrial depart- 
ments, the Handwork Shop, the Hat 
and Gown Shop, and the Xew England 
Kitchen, are all parts of an important 
educational movement would come as a 
surprise to many people who think 
they are well acquainted with the Union. 
The fact is, the Union is an educa- 
tional institution built upon a busi- 
ness foundation. The training courses 
which it offers young women, fitting 
them for active service as research 
workers, educational directors, teachers 
in trade and continuation schools; the 
practice training given college women 
in lunch-room work and institutional 
management; the studies of new fields 
of occupation for women; the vocational 
counseling for students, as well as the 
numerous forms of befriending work 
conducted by the Union, — all of these 
187 



188 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



activities are made possible through the 
earnings of the industrial departments. 

More than half of the cost of this 
constantly increasing social-industrial 
work is covered by the returns from the 
business shops. For the balance, re- 
presenting about $20,000 a year, the 
Union depends upon membership fees 
and donations. The business depart- 
ments, however, in addition to assisting 
in the financial support, contribute 
directly to the educational activities, 
by providing an opportunity for properly 
qualified students to secure practical 
experience under actual business con- 
ditions. In the present year, for 
instance, 95 young women, chiefly 
seniors from Simmons College, have 
received such training in the Union's 
Financial Office, Appointment Bureau, 
Library, Lunch Rooms, New England 
Kitchen, and Food Shop. 

The activities of the Union are con- 
ducted through three distinct groups 
of departments — educational, social, 
and industrial. The first-mentioned 



group includes the Department of Re- 
search, the Vocational Training Depart- 
ment, the School of Salesm.anship, 
and the Appointment Bureau. The 
Union's social work is represented by 
the Social Service Department, com- 
prising an information bureau, room 
registry for securing assistance and 
employment for untrained women; the 
Law and Thrift Department; and the 
Public Reference Library, specializing 
in women in industry. The industrial 
departments include four lunch rooms, 
a manufacturing plant for school 
luncheons, food shop, food salesroom, 
candy kitchen, cake kitchen, handwork 
and children's clothing shop, and hat 
and gown shop. 

The wide range of activities embraced 
can be better understood from a de- 
scription of the actual work in some of 
the different departments. Perhaps the 
least familiar to the public that daily 
pass the building at 264 Boylston Street 
and pause to look at the tempting 
viands or the arts and crafts work dis- 




HANDWORK SHOP 



OPPORTUNITY FOR WOMEN 



189 





1 


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MEMBERS' REST ROOM 



played in the show-case windows is the 
Department of Research. Yet its work 
is recognized by social experts through- 
out the country as a vital contribution 
to the study of women in industrial life. 
Organized in 1905 as an attempt to 
rouse public opinion and secure legis- 
lation for the protection of women em- 
ployed in factories in the state, it has 
become a school for training investi- 
gators as well as one of the leading 
agencies in the country for collecting 
data regarding the conditions of 
women's work. Some of the investi- 
gations made by the department within 
the past few years are studies of what 
constitutes a living wage for women 
workers, early history of factory legis- 
lation in Massachusetts, child labor 
laws and their enforcement, conditions 
of women's work in factories, the reg- 
ulation of employment agencies, non- 
teaching vocations for trained women, 
and conditions in the millinery, dress- 
making, machine operating, and boot 
and shoe industries, with special refer- 
ence to the opportunities o.^ered as 
trades for women. 

Several of the studies conducted by 
the department have been made for 



state and city boards; thus the inves- 
tigation of home work in some Mass- 
achusetts towns was carried on in co- 
operation with the State Bureau of 
Statistics. The studies of the needs 
and opportunities for trade schools 
for girls, as well as of the need for 
part-time and continuation schools, was 
made at the request of the State Board 
of Education. The first-mentioned 
study resulted in the establishment 
of trade schools in Cambridge, Som- 
erville, and Worcester, while the second 
helped materially in securing legislative 
action for compulsory continuation 
schools. "Opportunities for girls in 
clerical work," the subject of last year's 
investigation, was taken up at the 
request of the Boston School Commit- 
tee. "What the trade schools of 
Massachusetts are doing for the girl 
who must be self-supporting at an 
early age" is the subject selected for the 
present year. 

The results of this work are made 
available for general use through a 
series of publications entitled "Studies 
in economic relations of women." A 
number of the reports are now in prep- 
aration. One of these studies re- 



190 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



ferred to above has been published by 
the United vStates Bureau of Education 
in its 1913 bulletins. This is entitled 
"A trade school for girls." The 
United States Labor Bureau has ar- 
ranged to bring out the report on the 
boot and shoe industry. The Mass- 
achusetts State Board of Education has 
published the study of continuation 
schools, and the State Bureau of Sta- 
tistics has recently issued that on home 
work. 

These investigations are made pos- 
sible through the fellowships which the 
Union offers to women who are de- 
sirous of preparing themselves for ac- 
tive service in social-economic work. 
Four paid fellowships of S500 each are 
maintained. One of these fellowships 
is devoted to the study of vocational 
opportunities for women in connection 
with the Union's Appointment Bureau. 
The research work conducted in the 
department is accepted as part of the 
requirements for a master's degree at 
Simmons, Radcliffe, Tufts, and Welles- 
ley Colleges, and at the Massachusetts 
Institute of Technologv. Arrangements 



are made for fellowship holders, who 
desire it, to take related courses at any of 
the above-mentioned institutions. The 
work at the Union is conducted under 
the direction of an expert in economic 
research and includes, in addition to 
the field work, a large amount of sup- 
plementary reading and training in 
statistical methods in assembling and 
interpreting data. 

The training offered fits young women 
for such positions as investigators in 
the state or federal service, social work- 
ers, welfare directors, and educational 
leaders in industrial establishments. 
Several of the graduate fellows hold 
positions under the United States 
Bureau of Labor. Beginning salaries 
are from $900 to $1,200 a year with 
excellent opportunities for advancement. 
The profession of investigator is a new 
one for women and the Union has been 
foremost in developing the field. 

Nor is this the only line of technical 
education for women in which the Union 
stands as pioneer. The training course 
for educational directors and teachers 
of salesmanship, the normal course for 




MEMBERS' LUNCH ROOM 



OPPORTUNITY FOR WOMEN 



191 



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ANOTHER VIEW OF CHILDREN'S CLOTHING SHOP 



trade school teachers and supervisors, 
are among the foremost of the kind 
given in the country, and, in the case 
of the first mentioned, the only course 
yet offered. Simmons College with its 
cultural and scientific courses is co- 
operating with the Union in providing 
this technical training. The major 
part of the academic work and the 
preparatory training is given at the 
college, while the practice work and 
actual trade experience is provided by 
the Union. 

Quite distinct from these purely 
educational departments, yet carrying 
its own share of educational work, is 
the Department of Law and Thrift, 
most important of the Union's social 
service agencies. The original purpose 
of the department, the investigation of 
cases of injustice done to women, had 
led to a study of protective measures, 
of principles of thrift, and of institutions 
especially adapted to promote the habit 
of saving and to meet the needs of poor 
borrowers. Hence the significance of 
its title. Legal advice, at a merely 
nominal charge, is given to both work- 
ing men and women. A considerable 
part of the work involves rescuing 
unfortunates from the small loan dealers. 
469 legal aid cases were handled by the 



department last year. These repre- 
sented the most varied problems, such 
as assignment of wages, conditional sales, 
contracts, criminal cases, domestic re- 
lations, fraudulent advertising, insur- 
ance, the relations of landlord and ten- 
ant, loans, wages, and the labor laws. 
The department has done especially 
successful work in settling small loan 
cases. 

Other phases of the department's 
work are the management of stamp 
savings stations; the department is 
headquarters for the Stamp Savings 
Society, a savings bank insurance branch, 
the Industrial Credit Union, and an 
emergency loan fund. This fund which 
is an important asset to the Union's 
social work has been built up through 
the generosity of Airs. Mary C. Jackson, 
who has given four donations of SI 000 
for this purpose. Loans of from 85 
to 8300 are made to applicants in urgent 
need of financial assistance. Frequently 
these are made to help in settling 
assignment of wages and small loan 
cases. Several times loans have been 
made for educational purposes. In 
order to give eft'ective assistance to 
students a much larger fund is needed. 

Through the legislative committee 
important service has been rendered 



192 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



by both the Law and Thrift and Re- 
search Department in supporting re- 
medial legislation. Among the distinct 
results of this work, are the passage of 
bills regulating small loans and assign- 
ment of wages, the appointment of a 
commission to investigate employment 
offices and of a factory inspection com- 
mission, and the establishment of the 
State Board of Labor and Industries. 
Some of the measures which the com- 
mittee has supported are the minimum 
wage, the fifty-four-hour law for women, 
a nine-hour work day for women, the 
uniform child labor law, compulsory 
continuation schools, the prevention of 
industrial accidents and occupational 
diseases, and the supervision of public 
and private employment offices. 

Another phase of the Union's social 
work is represented by the Room Regis- 
try which is engaged in helping to solve 
the lodging house problem, by improving 
rooming standards, and securing safe 
and attractive lodgings for students 
and business men and women. Still 
another is the work done in the be- 
friending and special placement of 
handicapped or untrained women. 
Over 1900 cases of this sort were 
handled by the social service agent 
last year. Many of these applicants 
are elderly women who through the 
death of a relative or financial reverses 
have been thrown for the first time upon 
their own resources; some are widows 



with young children ; others are partially 
incapacitated through physical infirmity ; 
practically all are inexperienced as wage 
earners. A number of students who are 
trying to earn their expenses while gain- 
ing an education are each year assisted 
in securing part-time employment. 

Representative of the business de- 
partments, at once industrial and edu- 
cational in character, is the Handwork 
Shop and Sales Room, where the most 
beautiful of arts and crafts work 
is displayed, — hand-wrought jewelry, 
metal work, pottery, baskets, quaint 
and beautiful in design, furnishings 
for country homes, toys for children. 
Here are, also, shown dainty hand-made 
frocks for children, outfits for infants, 
and jaunty coats and hats for boys 
and girls, all made in one of the Union's 
model work rooms where the best 
sanitary standards and labor conditions 
are maintained. The shop serves both 
to train apprentices in the needle arts 
and to afford laboratory practice for 
the students in the normal course for 
trade-school teachers. The work is 
conducted on a business basis under the 
direction of an expert forewoman. 
Clean, attractive work rooms, with 
pay for over time, paid holidays and 
vacations, sick benefit, and steady em- 
ployment throughout the year irrespec- 
tive of slack seasons, — these are the 
standards set by the Union for all of 
its industrial departments. 





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DEMONSTRATION SALE — SCHOOL OF SALESMANSHIP 



LET'S JUST BE GLAD 



193 



The students that come for train- 
ing are required to conform to the work- 
ing standards and thus acquaint them- 
selves with actual trade conditions. 
In addition to the training offered in 
its work shop, the Handwork Depart- 
ment, through its sales room, affords 
an opportunity for young women who 
are preparing to start an exchange or 
gift-shop. Other phases of the depart- 
ment's educational work is shown in 
the annual exhibit conducted for the 
benefit of art-school students and the 
handcraft scholarship established for 
the purpose of studying the trade of 
silversmith as an occupation for women. 

Plans are in progress for a further 
utilization of all of the Union depart- 
ments in training properly qualified 
students. This service is one of the 
most important contributions the Union 
is making to educational work. Other 
recent contributions are the courses 



of free lectures for students on pro- 
fessional opportunities for women and 
the series on scientific management; 
the full-time course for vocational 
counsellors, and the establishment of a 
department of vocational training to 
direct the normal classes for trade-school 
teachers and to supervise the practice 
work in the business departments. 

From a small group the Union has 
grown to a large organization, co- 
operating through a chain of commit- 
tees with the principal women's col- 
leges in the East and with branches 
of the Association of Collegiate Alumnae 
throughout the country. Its interest, 
at first centered in befriending work for 
the individual, has expanded to broader 
phases of preventive effort — indus- 
trial training and education — until 
now the Union is recognized as one of 
the leaders in this country in vocational 
work for women. 



Let's Just Be Glad 



Let's just be glad. 
So many joys are given 
To us, each day and moment that we know, 
For you and I the blue sky arches over. 
For you and I the slender daisies blow. 

Let's just be glad. 

Let's just be glad. 
The gipsy wind is blowing 
Across the clover meadow, sweet and free. 
And who could sigh who hears the merry 

challenge, 
"Cast care aside, and follow, follow me!" 

Let's just be glad. 



Let's just be glad. 
Our days are blessed with sunshine, 
And all the night the quiet stars above 
Shine down upon us from the gates of Heaven, 
Sweet symbols of our Father's endless love. 

Let's just be glad. 

Christine Kerr Davis. 



Tea and the Tourist 

The Surprising Debut and Spectacular Rise of Afternoon Tea Abroad 

The Innocuous Herb which has caused a revolution in European society, pla\fs the leading 
role on the menus of the super-hotels of Europe, has now become one of the sinews of 
war and a balm for the wounded. 

By Blanche McManus 



CONTINENTAL Europe is just 
discovering the curious rev- 
olutionary properties of that 
simple beverage, tea. The summer 
season of 1914 not only has gone down 
in history as having developed the 
greatest war, but it will long be re- 
membered by those who participated 
in its "before-the-war" period as the 
great "Afternoon Tea Season." It saw 
the triumphal culmination of the rise 
of tea from its once modest position as 
an incidental repast to a function of 
magnitude that has so outrivaled its 
culinary competitors that the complaint 
went out from all who are in the business 
of catering along the great Highway 
of Europe that the craze for the ameni- 
ties of the social tea-room was spoiling 
more legitimate business. When one 
of the great Riviera hotels publicly 
declared that the excessive popularity 
of its afternoon teas de luxe is really 
cutting into the profits of other branches 



i 



of the establishment, it would seem 
time to consider seriously the hold that 
the recent rite of tea-drinkng has 
fastened upon social Europe. 

Not that the cheerful cup of tea as 
now in vogue abroad can be classed 
as cheap, except comparatively. 

"We are doing our best" they all say, 
"but tea can never be brought up in 
price to cover curtailments caused by 
its demand, in dinners that might be 
coaxed along to a hundred dollars a 
plate, or suppers which might be dis- 
tended under the volatile influence of 
champagne to almost any sum." 

That tea has hoodwinked so good and 
well managed a business proposition as 
the Grand Tourist Catering Company 
of Europe only shows the subtle guile 
of this outwardly meek drink. For 
when the tea germ first began to ravage 
the continent of Europe, every place 
that dispensed food and drink to the 
English speaking traveler rejoiced, from 

FIRST PERIOD - 




Continental Europe Learns the Interesting Game 
of Tea Drinking, Introduced by the EngHsh Tourist 
by Means of the Traveling Tea Basket. 



To the Astonishment of the 
Natives. 



TEA AND THE TOURIST 



195 



big hotels and chic restaurants to beer 
gardens, and Bohemian taverns; "the 
Uttle place around the comer," bars, 
pastry shops, all took heart. Here was 
an undreamed-of, easy path to in- 
creasing revenues made off the stranger. 
Moreover they could righteously wash 
their own hands of all responsibility 
except that of serving it on call, this 
' increase in the cost of touring could 
only be laid to the travelers' own in- 
itiative; had they not brought it on 
themselves, even in their own luggage? 
In fact, it was the English, always strong 
on the tea propaganda, as we know, who 
introduced it on the continent, nested 
comfortably in their tea-baskets, without 
which they could no more have traveled, 
at that time, than without their col- 
lapsible bath-tubs. By this means they 
brewed their own afternoon tea wherever 
they happened to be, to the intense 
interest and curiosity of the native. 

Popular tradition has it that the first 
tea-room on the Continent appeared 
in Italy, though France disputes this 
honor now that tea has come to have 
such a mondaine repute. This much is 
authentic; that in Paris some twenty 
years ago the words ''Afternoon Tea" 
were first seen across a little shop front 
in the Rue de Rivoli called then the 
"Papeterie de la Concorde," a small 
booksellers' and stationers' shop, whose 
British proprietors, to draw trade, put 

"JUST TEA." 



two tiny tea tables behind the counter, 
screened them off and served tea and 
dry biscuits to a few choice customers. 

Then tea-rooms were seen cropping up 
in most of the large cities of Europe, 
where English speaking tourists con- 
gregated, tiny and modest, patronized 
entirely by a British clientele, presided 
over by English ladies in severe and 
correct style, who even brought their 
stocks and fixtures with them, deploring 
at the same time the fact that foreign 
water could never make tea properly. 

In course of time these tea-rooms 
became the sanctuaries of the lone 
woman traveler from across the 
Channel, also the unprotected American 
woman en tour came by degrees to avail 
herself of their hospitality, digesting 
her foreign travel impressions over tea 
and scones and buttered muffins under 
the benevolent gaze of portraits of the 
English Royal Family; thus the English 
Tea-Room became a recognized factor 
in foreign travel. 

Then the native woke up and said, 
"This game looks easy," and reached 
out to gather some of the golden fruit 
for himself from this particular branch 
of the tree of travelers' lore. At first, 
in an humble fashion pastry shops, 
creameries, bakeries and the like began 
timidly to insert in their signs the single 
word "Tea," but asked a stiff price as 
befitted an exotic, and even so, were 




The First Paris Tea Room. These 
Were Not the Days of Publicity. 



Early EngHsh Tea Rooms. 



196 



AMERICAN COOKERY 






surprised to see the money come in so 
fast. 

Then the large Tourist Hotel began 
to take notice. This was some ten 
years or so back, when it was shedding 
its provincialisms and expanding on 
ample lines, intended to appeal to and 
please a clientele from over-seas. It 
welcomed the newcomer, who sought its 
protection, but did not seem to demand 
too much attention and time, with 
complacency and condescension, and 
assigned "afternoon tea" a lowly place 
on its menu, content enough to be able 
to add a fifth meal to its day and one 
which was mostly profit. The service 
was there, and the rooms might as well 
be kept working full time and a "the 
complef could not be otherwise than 
big with financial profits even with 
European tea at two dollars a pound. 

So sly tea, winking behind its saucer, 
shyly and gratefully accepted a minor 
role, to humbly share a restricted hos- 
pitality in the "Lounge," in company 
with after-dinner coffee and sundry 
other beverages, and saw its name 
entered at the foot of the long list of 
culinary attractions offered by the 
house as ''The a V Anglaise.'' 

Little did the management realize 
that it was introducing a factor destined 
to revolutionize the character of the 
hotel industry in Europe. 

At first, it was served only as "plain 



tea" with accompanying breads of no 
particular genre, which crumpled up 
under hard little pats of butter, at a 
modest franc or its equivalent. Those 
were the days when to be seen man- 
ipulating the tea cup was to label oneself 
English, when people used to stop and 
look curiously on strangers who took a 
hot water drink in the corner of a room, 
when one should have been taking one 
or another of the bright colored aperitifs, 
beloved of Europe, on the gay terrace of 
some amusing cafe. 

But all this quickly changed. ''The 
a V Anglaise'' scored such a success that 
it soon made itself felt in the receipts of 
the "Bureau" and the hotel management 
palpitated with hope. "All it needs is 
a little pushing," they whispered de- 
Hghtedly, "We'll feature TEA." 

Coy tea listened with a snicker and 
gurgled happily as it was brought up 
from the back row and given a place 
in the lime light. It was installed in a 
spacious "Salon," all to itself, and the 
"Afternoon Tea Room" was advertised 
in larger type than any other attraction 
across the fagade of the establishment. 
"Directeur-Chefs'' braved stormy cross- 
ing of the English Channel to pick up 
new tea wrinkles and came back com- 
plaining of tea-taster's throat, but happy 
in the possession of some new secret of 
the new game; even continental hotel 
proprietors were seen hanging around 



SECOND PERIOD- 



msy». 




Every Little Shop that Caters to the Tourist, and 
Some Who Don't, Puts up the " Afternoon Tea" Sign, 
— and — 



the Result, an Excessi 
Phrase Leads to an Oc 



TEA AND THE TOURIST 



197 



I the tea shops of London's "West End", 
to pick up tips on tea, while there was 
an exodus of waiters of all nationalities 
to England to learn how to boil water 
and butter bread, two accomplishments 
hitherto lacking in their home cuisine. 
Salaries went up for these newly in- 
structed ones; another set of tips had 
to be worked out in connection with the 
new service, and tea looked happily 
towards the two-franc goal. 

It was about this time that the 
Americans abroad, quick to assimilate a 
good thing, began to dispute the tea- 
drinking championship with their Eng- 
lish cousins, to the still greater joy of the 
Great European Tourist Catering Com- 
panies who rubbed their hands and said 
to one another, "Now there will be some- 
thing doing; it's well to watch this 
thing," and straightway they began to 
increase the stakes. Delicate, leaf like, 
"cut bread and butter," on best English 
patterns, appeared on the tea menu and 
it became a mark of distinction to fold 
these over at the correct angle; also 
tea's consort, plum cake, was imported 
at fabulous cost in wafer-like slices, 
tea biscuits were offered at advanced 
prices, and afternoon tea came to be 
quoted at the equivalent of fifty cents, 
when the red-uniformed Tzigane orches- 
tra played effectively against a back- 
ground of palms in the "tea salon", 
and politely collected their own tax on 

PLAIN TEA." 



tea when they took up the usual collec- 
tion afterwards. 

The price of afternoon tea rose to 
seventy-five cents or thereabouts, when 
a vaudeville stage was added to the 
attractions of the tea-room and about 
this time golf suits and outing gowns 
disappeared and a more chic garb be- 
came de rigueur for the new repast. 
Then the other nations, who had been 
holding off, in disdain of the eccen- 
tricities in food of English speaking 
people, began to come into the tea- 
drinkers' fold. "Hang the expense," 
they cried, " we will try it just to see 
how crazy these people are." Coming 
to scoff they remained to elevate the 
then exotic rite of sipping tea in the 
middle of an afternoon from a foreign 
idiosyncracy to a cosmopolitan function 
of magnitude and distinction. 

But tea was destined to be crowned 
with further laurels in its service abroad. 
With the advent of the Super-Hotel, 
within the last three or four years, came 
the apotheosis of Afternoon Tea. When 
Europe built the great hotels of five and 
six hundred rooms, all of them with a 
bath, put in elevators that carried 
passengers both up and down, opened 
Royal and Imperial Suites (principally 
for American guests), tea got the real 
chance for which it had been lying low. 

It bubbled up like a boiling geyser 
under the nose of the hotel Management 




Popularizing of the Tea 
sional Funny Situation. 



In the Early Days the Formula Used to Get Mixed, and People 
Used to Stop and Stare at the Tea Drinkers. 



198 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and cried, "Look at the following I have 
brought you, now what are you going to 
do for me?" and the whole establishment 
bowed down before it. It got special 
Salons installed for its consumption, it 
took precedence in the largest and 
grandest rooms that Europe ever built 
for the purposes of purveying food. It 
was housed in real palm gardens. Tea 
was assigned the front row in the long, 
shining, white hotel fagades, pre-empted 
windows that commanded the finest 
views; and flower-garlanded terraces 
were designed for its exclusive use. 

At this period the cold, Uttle marble 
tables and hard-backed chairs of the 
past gave place to more commodious 
tables and arm chairs of bright tinted 
wicker, of white and gold. A special 
business grew up in tea-room furnish- 
ings, hitherto non-existent. Where but 
lately the special tea service could be 
got only of British manufacture and was 
handled in the shops almost as a curi- 
osity, the ingenuity of all European 
makers of fine wares has been turned, 
of late, to supplying these Lilliputian 
services of porcelain, silver, crystal and 
damask, demanded of tea. 

Tango teas nearly blinked out tango 
suppers; some of the big hotels served 
five, six hundred, a thousand teas and 
more, to their guests on gala days. An 
additional gold braided corps of servitors 
were kept busy untangling the long line 



waiting for tables and admission to chic 
tea-rooms. Then it was that Afternoon 
Tea proudly saw its name in the largest 
type of all the attractions, heading the 
list of turns and itself in the role of 
premier "Star" as an entertainer-in-chief 
to the touring world. 

Many and varied delicacies of all 
lands were fastened to the train of the 
seductive beverage. It was provided 
with a body guard of all makes of cakes, 
tarts and glazed confectionery, designed 
to destroy the appetite for legitimate 
meals; these were presented to one on 
mammoth trays or loaded up on parti- 
decked tables wheeled to one's elbow. 
Glace and even hot-house fruits were 
pressed into service at this once simple 
gouter. Planked plum cake, now life 
size, was set before the tea-room guest 
on a linen-covered board decorated in 
the fashion of a Christmas tree in bright 
ribbons and tinsel. 

Then, as a crowning touch, arrived 
toast, offered as a chef d'oeuvre with M 
baited breath, its first appearance and ™ 
the biggest recent achievement in the 
Continental cuisine — buttered on both 
sides, too. Such was the success of toast 
that it set all the national academies of 
letters throughout Europe to taking 
cognizance of the word "toast," to 
see that it was properly introduced 
into their respective languages, and 
curiously enough it has entered all 

THIRD PERIOD- 



(Em- % 










"^r^M 






\wwl 



The Americans Began to Dispute the Tea 
Drinking Championship About This Time. 



" NOW there will be Something Doing," said 
the Management, and Began to Increase the 
Stakes. 



TEA AND THE TOURIST 



199 



languages as masculine plural. In 
France the garcon serves it to you as 
"du toasts," the German kellner twists 
it into des toastes, In Spain it ar- 
rives beside the tea cup as los 
tostados, while in Italy toasti sug- 
gests a new brand of palace. This 
masculinizing of both tea and toast is 
not only an injustice to a meal of which 
woman has ever been the high priestess 
I and man but an assistant at its altar, but 
the plural is presumptuous when applied 
to but a single slice of toast, two by 
three inches in dimensions, which comes 
so royally to one in the splendid isolation 
of its lace serviette in the centre of a 
silver salver, flanked by a tablespoon 
and a carving knife with which to tame 
it. 

Only in the last two years or so has 
afternoon tea, like an electric spark, 
girdled the continent, and that money 
coining phase, "Afternoon Tea," found 
more effective, is replacing the ancient 
talisman, "English Spoken." As one 
bargains with the oriental only through 
the medium of the coffee cup, so pur- 
chases augment in quantity and value 
through the seductive agency of the tea 
cup. ' The souvenir shop, the little 
vendor of antiques, the multitude of 
small shops which live by the tourist 
trade, all find a tiny table or two on 
which to serve a cup of tea an effective 
background for their wares, and the 

'TEA COMPLET." 



invitation to "walk into my tea-parlor" 
the best of advertisements. Scarce a 
beaten or unbeaten path but leads to 
one of these on the tourist trail of 
Europe. 

Curious and obscure little eating and 
drinking places, that do not even know 
the meaning of the words in many cases, 
except that they have a magic drawing 
power, have adopted them as a kind of 
good luck sign, to the confusion of the 
bearings of the lone woman traveler at 
times. 

No more does the picturesque little 
wayside inn eye with indulgence and 
amusement the function of tea-making 
as once performed by their guests from 
their own traveling tea-baskets. They 
are ready now to provide it themselves, 
at a price which is cautiously being 
pushed forward as quickly as circum- 
stances will permit. While the newly 
sophisticated country hotel, once giving 
satisfaction at about a dollar to one 
dollar and a half a day, stuns its former 
clients with doubled prices because of 
modish "tea concerts" in its court- 
yard with the village band in attendance. 
So have the tourist and the tea-basket 
brought increased prices on themselves, 
and the added cost to the day's traveling 
expenses of the now-obligatory, after- 
noon tea must be considered as a factor 
in the rise of the cost of modern tourism 
which did not exist a few years ago. 




The Gold-Braided Brigade Wheeled Triple- 
Decked Tables, Loaded with the Sweets of All 
Nations. 



TOAST — The Greatest Modern Achievement 
of the Cuisine of Continental Europe. 



200 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



But the chief destiny of tea, and the 
result in which it may take the greatest 
pride, is the real revolution it has been 
instrumental in bringing about in the 
social customs of Europe. When in its 
English home tea was raised from its 
middle-class condition of a "high tea," 
just a homely supper, and given a draw- 
ing room prestige, its social ambitions 
steadily climbed upward until today 
it balances its cup gleefully on the top 
rung of the mondaine entertainment 
ladder. 

This means that the European day's 
center of social activities is so changed 
that this afternoon function has become 
the most chic of all, not because it is 
cheaper but because it is smarter. Tea 
has broken up in the European house 
that bulwark of convention in receiving 
guests, the two long stiff lines of chairs 
that stretched unsociably and rigidly 
from the mantle-piece across the length 
of the drawing room and has gathered 
them, instead, about the gay little 
tea tables. 

In France the bourgeois gouter, a 
family affair, has been replaced by the 
"chic five o'clock" and " The a V Anglaise'' 
has been seized upon by the lovely 
Parisienne to create another magic 
period of the day as a new setting for 
her charms, new social activities, new 
manners and new liberties. Where 
Paris leads all Europe follows. Tea 



has trickled down, insidiously altering 
manners in provincial society, replacing 
the sweet cordials and biscuits of the 
four o'clock of the old regime, with the 
tea pot, while the village baker who 
cannot now furnish plum cake of a kind 
is behind his times. 

Russia contributes her traditional 
samovar to the sacred hour and claims 
honors on the lemon. German society 
is so unpatriotic, for once, as to threaten 
to abandon its afternoon coffee brew 
in favor of such an English beverage as 
tea, and its offering to the tea table is 
luscious gingerbread. Spanish society 
discards its tiny cups of thick, cinnamon-- 
flavored chocolate dipped up with a 
simple roll of bread, the more refreshing 
and complicated tea, truly in this case 
to the "Queen's taste" as Spain's Eng- 
lish bom Queen sets here the tea-fashion. 
One still does in Rome as do the Romans 
even when taking tea and scones, while 
the Dutch have moved their tea kettle 
in its copper pail of glowing embers, 
once only the accompaniment of their 
luncheon and dinner tables, on to the 
tea-table in company with delightful 
sweet rusks. 

Tea-fashions are as varied as the 
nations. Some place the cup on the 
left hand and others the doyley under 
the saucer; the spoon may be served in 
a glass of water as in Italy and another 
be used with the cake as in Switzerland: 



FOURTH PERIOD 




Fourth Period: TEA (Vaudeville-Tango-Maxime-Mannequin Fashion Parade) COMPLET 



TEA AND THE TOURIST 



201 



tea may be taken sitting down at a big 
table as is popular in France, or by 
balancing precariously while standing 
as in England, but in all the essentials 
afternoon tea has become a standardized 
meal throughout Europe. 

"Quite so," says Tea, "now if you will 
give me the time and space and some 
more hot water I can prove that I have 
popularised the fad for the out-door 
sports of society." Certainly there is 
no possibility of golf without tea between 
bunkers, nor tennis that does not finish 
at tea-tables under the bright umbrellas 
of the lawn; no football, polo, winter 
sports or summer outings, without its 
soothing administrations. London has 
introduced tea into cinema audiences; 
Paris, tea into theatres; one can only 
digest lectures through the medium of 
this brain-calming herb; while for long 
women have been able to select a gown 
in fashion's capital, the rue de la Paix, 
only with the aid of the aroma of the 
tea cup. 

And has the great war blocked this 
triumphal progress of the Afternoon 
Tea? On the contrary, under the rain 
of shot and shell, to the music of giant 
cannon, tea is making new conquests. 
The tea cup of the "five o'clock" is 
part of the ammunition that circulates 
briskly in the trenches along the five 
hundred miles of the Belgian-Franco 
Hne; the samovar hisses along the 



thousand miles of the Russian front, and 
echoes on the Servian frontier — the 
"five o'clock" has but been transferred 
from the drawing room to the battle 
field. 

But the afternoon tea-hour has been 
diverted to even nobler purposes. 
Under the white uniform and scarlet 
insigna of the beneficent Croix Rouge 
it has been introduced into the hospitals; 
also, this inovation can be placed to the 
credit (certainly in France) of the 
American hospitals for the wounded. 
While afternoon tea, alone of all social 
entertainments, is permitted by war 
etiquette to function, for it is about the 
cheering tea-table that now gathers the 
numberless workers for the succor and 
relief of the great army of war victims, 
and the once gay tea-room has become 
the industrious workshop for the allevia- 
tion of the distressed. 

The afternoon tea-room is one of the 
few continental industries that has this 
season been extended instead of reduced. 
New ones are opening whose mission is 
to cheer the convalescent and a large 
number of Paris tea-rooms arejphil- 
anthropically offering their hospitality 
gratis each afternoon to a certain num- 
ber of wounded convalescents. 

And when at last victory is pro- 
claimed and the Great Peace is ratified, 
doubtless Tea, conceited plant, will 
take the credit of it all to itself. 



FIFTH PERIOD 







Fifth Period: TEA Sheds Its Worldliness, Enters the Great War, Becomes the Center of all Good Works, 
Brings Solace in the Trenches and Soothing Balm to the Wounded. 



Work of the Witches 

Alice Margaret Ashton 



STEALTHILY and with aston- 
ishing rapidity the man worked, 
pausing occasionally to listen 
to the sounds of busy life in a distant 
part of the big, wide-open house. 

Fervently he prayed — if men who 
make stealthy bundles in other people's 
houses do pray — that the servants 
might be detained a moment longer 
at the scene of future festivities. 

Fortune backed him. He closed the 
deep sack, knotted the top dexter- 
ously and stole without sound to the 
rear porch. 

"So," observed the mistress of the 
house coolly, from her sentinel position 
in a shadowy corner, "so, you thought 
you could get awa^/ unobserved!" 

With a start the man faced his 
accuser. With a soft clash the sack 
dropped to the brick floor. 

"After all I have tried to do for you," 
she reproached mournfully, "this seems 
like a poor return." 

A burning red mounted in the man's 
face from his im.maculate white collar 
to his immaculate brown hair. It 
was a distinctly nice, likeable face. 
And the blush gave it a shamed, little- 
boy look that brought a smile of for- 
giveness to the eyes of his outraged 
hostess. But since she knew too well 
the real value of his contrition, she 
steeled her heart against any mere 
appearance of regret and innocence. 

"You are running away from my 
party," she accused, with an increase 
of indignation at the realization. "And 
I am giving it especially for you!" 

"Sorry, honestly I am. Sis," he de- 
fended. "But you ought not to have 
given it, you know. Fine I'd feel 
roaming round in a clown suit among 
a lot of mysterious females, wouldn't I?" 

"I should think you would feel 
human, at least. I've been patient all 



summer with your eccentricities, your 
stealing away to some unknown spot 
by yourself and snubbing my hospital- 
ity and antagonizing all the lovely 
girls I've brought here for your benefit." 

"But, good heaven, that has been 
the trouble. Sis, the girls you have 
brought here. Why in the name of all 
that is reasonable, need a fellow bother 
his head about girls when they are not 
of the slightest interest to him?" 

"Because you ought to be interested, 
whether you realize it or not. Why 
shouldn't you be interested in a girl 
like Carolyn Fayne — beautiful, accom- 
plished, gifted, a born leader, rich — " 

"Wait!" He waved his hands tragic- 
ally. "What chance should I have with 
all that array of excellencies? I'll 
keep my work and my humble position, 
thank you, in preference to being the 
husband of Carolyn Fayne." 

' ' I thought Carolyn was your especial 
type of girl," meekly. 

"Well, she isn't, that is evident." 

"Then why not dear Httle Martha 
Louise Fulton? Personally she is a 
darling, and I never knew a woman of 
her adoring, lovable sort who did not 
make her husband tower above ordinary 
men, if he had a spark of ability about 
him." 

"A butterfly!" Frederick Draper 
turned and resolutely picked up his 
sack from the brick floor. 

From her secluded corner his out- 
raged hostess-sister watched his white- 
clad figure striding through the orchard 
toward the wood-patch. 

"I suppose," she admitted resign- 
edly, "he will just go on hitching dis- 
concerting letters back of his name and 
piling up honorary memberships and 
things, and I'll have to be contented." 

Frederick Rumford Draper, bearer of 
disconcerting degrees and recipient of 



202 



WORK OF THE WITCHES 



203 



honorary memberships, felt care slip 
from his broad shoulders as he entered 
the wood-path. 

During the length of the garden and 
orchard, conscience did trouble him. 
"Sis is an old dear — I hate disappoint- 
ing her. Yet, why should she attempt 
the impossible? Suppose I had under- 
taken to make an artist or a suffragette 
of her instead of giving her a big house 
and Bob Vance to look after, wouldn't 
I have made a mess of things?" 

But with the wood-path and the soft, 
subdued sounds of wood life, care slipped 
from him. Before him stretched soli- 
tude, enjoyment, an evening of un- 
interrupted work. Already his mind 
was hurrying forward to meet it uncon- 
scious of all else. 

A slip, a sliding of loosened stones 
down a deep gully, a shower of coarse 
dirt. The sack clashed softly in its 
partial descent. A figure in white 
scrambled for a hold on the bending 
bushes, rolled the remaining distance, 
and lay still. 

Frederick Draper stood once more on 
the brick floor of his sister's back porch. 
A ridiculous long, black garment clung 
about his person making action a 
difficulty. A foolish pointed cap pressed 
his head torturingly. An annoying 
mask pricked his face. "Come," his 
sister whispered in his ear, "they are all 
here." 

About him the air seemed bursting 
with buzzing sounds and strange, wav- 
ering lights. "It is Halloween," mur- 
mured his escort in a tone that made him 
shiver. 

From the medley of figures pressing 
round him, one tall and severe of aspect 
approached him. "He must be made 
to carry all these books he has written, 
on his head." she said, piling heavy 
volumes upon the pointed cap until 
he groaned beneath the burden. 

Dancing gaily past, a joyous little 
sprite paused at the sound. "What is 
this?" she demanded. "Take away 
those books — he is not to blame for 



having written them. What does he 
know about life?" 

Then: "Come," she enticed, "I know 
the wood-path." 

Draper opened his eyes in bewilder- 
ment. He was in the woods, certainly. 
And it was quite dark. The pointed 
cap pressed his head unbearably but 
he could not raise his hands to remove 
it. Then returned the dancing lights 
and the queer sounds. And later came 
rain dashing on his face, and the lights 
and sounds vanished. 

Once more he opened his eyes. 

The trees above him flushed with soft- 
est twihght. The air was still, no 
longer whirling about him dizzily. Be- 
side him on the ground, daintily wip- 
ing her dripping fingers, sat a strange 
creature in dusky black and flashing 
silver with the pointed cap of his dreams 
upon her head. 

"Are you real?" he questioned, with 
difficulty reaching forth a hand to touch 
her. 

"Quite real," she nodded. "Gen- 
erally I am an exceedingly ordinary 
mortal. But to-night — the Halloween 
spell is upon us — I am a witch, with the 
power to bewitch whom I will." 

"Have you cast a spell upon me?" 

"I heard you groaning. You have 
fallen down the ledge and must have 
struck your head against this stone. 
But you are better now. Suppose we 
try getting you to comfort?" 

"We are far from any shelter," he 
said, remembering now quite clearly. 

"Do you know the hut in the woods?" 
she questioned. 

"Do you? But we are not near." 

"Follow this gorge forty rods and you 
are within sight of the hut." 

Thoughtfully he studied the mys- 
terious figure beside him. A girl, he 
decided, brought up in the community, 
and evidently on her way to some 
Halloween froHc — that fool party of 
Marie's, perhaps. 

His body felt weak and shaky, when 
she had slowly assisted him to his feet. 



204 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



To his mortification, he found the sup- 
port of her shoulder grateful. A firm, 
softly-rounded shoulder it was, making 
him think of firelit rooms and laughing 
children and bedtime stories. And the 
thoughts proved novel and rather up- 
setting to this scholarly young man. 

Grateful indeed was the sight of the 
little hut at the end of the ravine. 
The forty rods had been covered with 
difficulty. The rude room swam be- 
fore his eyes when he sank into a chair 
within the friendly shelter. And he 
wondered rather indifferently what the 
girl would do next. 

Evidently this Halloween witch was 
no ordinary mortal during the balance 
of the year as she had avowed. No 
ordinary mortal could have gone about 
bringing cheer and comfort to that for- 
lorn hut with such remarkable dexterity. 

Soon was the fire snapping spiritedly, 
sending warmth and light into every 
cranny of the place. It set all the silver 
spangles sparkling on the dusky draperies 
of the Halloween sprite. 

Presently Draper observed that she 
was pouring steaming water from the 
tea-kettle into his bright tin wash-basin. 
Gently she bathed the bruises on his 
head until the throbbing ceased and he 
sighed from pure physical satisfaction. 

"Now," cheerfully she observed, "we 
must have something to eat." 

"That sounds good," he agreed heart- 
ily. *T cannot have sustained a very 
serious injury or I could not be so hun- 
gry. I had a sack of provisions when I 
started." 

"Here it is," and she dragged in the 
sack from the door-stone. 

"I believe you are a witch," laughed 
the young man. 

"Oh, my charm proved inadequate 
with the sack; I went back for it while 
the fire was getting started." 

Frederick Draper did not remember 
ever having seen a woman set about a 
meal-getting before. His unfortunate 
experience always had been to dine in 
houses where all domestic machinery 



was hidden behind soundless doors. 
Many meals had he prepared himself, 
but he did not go about it Hke this 
amazing creature of black and silver. 

She drew coals to the hearth where 
she cooked savory things in a long- 
handled pan. She spread the rough 
table with a white cloth made festive 
with the scarlet leaves that fluttered 
about the door. And when she took 
her place opposite him and poured 
fragrant tea into the aluminum camp 
cups. Draper wondered why it had 
never occurred to him to be lonely at 
his solitary meals in the little wood-hut. 

Long after the clean dishes and the 
remaining provisions were put away 
neatly in the little cupboard, they sat 
in silence before the fire. He had in- 
sisted upon washing and drying the 
dishes while she was busy about the 
other duties, and they had spoken 
little. Draper did not suppose that a 
girl was ever content to sit thus silently, 
yet contentment showed in every shad- 
owy line as she rested in the steamer 
chair beside his rough hearth. 

Of a sudden the man leaned toward 
her with an impulsiveness hitherto 
foreign to him. "Will you .kindly un- 
cover your face, dear Halloween 
sprite?" he begged. 

"That would instantly change me 
back to my ordinary mortal-self," she 
remonstrated. 

"Oh — of course," he laughed. "Then 
I shall guess who you are, what you are 
like." 

"Halloween is a time of deep dis- 
cerning," admitted the witch. 

"You were going to a Hallowe'en 
frolic when you came to my rescue. 
Perhaps it was my sister's?" 

"I can deny neither charge." 

"It was a shame — though I'm mighty 
glad you did come. Remember, I 
can see you quite distinctly through 
all your guise." 

"Then it were needless to remove it." 

"Your manner is most deceiving, for 
as an ordinary mortal you contradict 



WORK OF THE WITCHES 



205 



every attribute you have exhibited 
to-night." 

"Perhaps it is merely the spell of 
the witches that makes me seem differ- 
ent," she shrugged. "And perhaps you 
do not discern so clearly as you imagine." 

"How comes it," he insisted, "that 
a girl such as you knows how to build 
fires, how to soothe broken heads, how 
to cook over primitive coals and to fill 
a room with contentment?" 

"Flattering," she mocked, "though 
not very explicit." 

"Then," he retorted, "I'll be more 
explicit. Your hair is red." 

Spiritedly the girl's head hfted. Then 
she shook contradictingly at him the 
black curls hanging below the pointed 
cap. 

"Oh, that's all right," he laughed out 
daringly. "I know you well enough to 
risk proposing to you. Will you marry 
me, little Halloween Sprite?" 

"You'd have a surprise coming if I 
did," retorted the sprite saucily. "But 
do not be alarmed," she added with a 
quick access of vehemence, "since noth- 
ing would induce me to marry you." 

"I know I'm not the sort of chap 
girls take to," he pleaded seriously, 
"but I'll try verv hard to come up to the 
mark." 

"I shall marry no man," she flashed, 
"because he wants me to feed him and 
look after him. You have never even 
noticed me until you find I can be a 
comfortable companion when you are 
hungry or in pain." 

"Nice, spunky child," he smiled at 
her. "There are writing materials in 
that table drawer just at your elbow. 
Will you kindly hand them to me?" 

When she had arranged the things on 
the broad arm of his chair, he drew her 
determinedly across to the wide seat 
beside him. "Wait," he commanded, 
his pen traveling hurriedly along the 
lines. 

Silently she waited, glancing occas- 
sionally at his tense face alight with the 
lust of achievement. Obviously she 



was forgotten. And the fact brought 
a strange little smile to her lips. 

After many minutes the man lay 
down his pen with a sigh of deep con- 
tent. "Feed nothing!" he cried ex- 
ultantly, turning to her. "Do you 
know what you've done for me, girl? 
Beside making me the happiest man 
that ever breathed, you have given me 
the idea I have been struggling alone 
to discover for a week past. Think of 
that! Talk about mereh^ feeding a 
fellow!" 

With an impetuous exclamation he 
drew away the pointed hat and the 
dangling curls and the annoying mask. 
He took the little black and silver 
figure in his arms and laid his cheek 
tenderly upon the bright hair. 

"Didn't I tell you it was red?" he 
whispered. "Did you suppose I didn't 
know you as soon as my head cleared? 
You, whom I have been running away 
from all summer? Bless the Hal- 
loween witch that tripped me down that 
gorge!" 

After a time of unbelievable happi- 
ness he remembered contritely: "I 
called you a butterfly — I had to do 
something in self defense when Marie 
accused me of indift'erence to you, 
didn't I?" 

"I ought to be very angry," she an- 
swered, "because I know you honesth' 
believed it true." 

Presently they went back along the 
happy, mystic wood-path. 

In the brick porch they paused to 
adjust the pointed cap and the dangling 
curls, and to perform certain formalities 
incident to a temporary parting. 

"I'll get down as soon as I can," 
promised the learned young man with 
an eagerness incongruous with his re- 
cent disdain for all things frivolous. 
"Marie has the togs all ready for me — 
bless her." 

"I'd like to see Marie when she 
recognizes you," giggled the witch 
rather wickedly. 

(Concluded on page 248) 



206 AMERICAN COOKERY 

AMERICAN COOKERY WORKING-DAY SEASON 



FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
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To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
of the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

In sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post otlice Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statement of ownership and rnanagement as required by 
the A,.t of Congress of August 24, 1912, 

Editor: Janet M. Hill. 

Business Managers: R. B. HiLL, B. M. HiLL 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co 

372 Boylston Stree*, Boston, Mass. 

Entered at Boston Fost-offick as Second-class Matteh 



The Lowly Vision 

Be glad the prophet's vision is not thine, 

Spelling the future's pregnant mystery, 
Lest gifted so, far wonders you divine, 

And then forget the ways that lie for thee — 
Earth's humble ways where love and life await 

Thy daily service and thy daily care, 
Where with the years the toiling heart, elate, 

Wins peace at last that only God doth share. 
Though not the vision, yet the deed is oiu-s, 

And in these days by toiling earnestly, 
We shape the years' slow, certain growth that 
flowers 

Into the glories of eternity! 

Arthur Wallace Peach. 



THE vacation season has passed 
once more. How swiftly the 
seasons roll! Certainly the past twelve 
months have been filled with most 
extraordinary events. We may be 
thankful to be so far removed and separ- 
ated from the immediate effects of 
destructive war. Strong is our con- 
viction that progress in "all that 
exalts and embellishes life ' ' can be 
made only in times of peace. May 
we continue ever to cherish peace and 
its pursuits, and the optimistic spirit 
that world-wide peace will soon pre- 
vail. Though signs of better times for 
many are not wanting, no one can be 
justly happy and contented while his 
neighbors are in state of dire distress 
and misery. 

THE SUMMER SCHOOL 

Twenty-eight pupils attended the 
Editor's summer school of cooking at 
"Topo Pino" this season — as large a 
number as could possibly be accommo- 
dated. These came from Texas, Missis- 
sippi, Kansas, Indiana, Illinois, Michi- 
gan, Ohio, New York, New Hampshire, 
Vermont, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, 
Connecticut, Washington, D. C, and 
Canada. In all parts of the land, schools 
and institutions, both state and national, 
are doing much to promote the inter- 
ests of domestic science. The scien- 
tific and practical work done in our 
agricultural departments is of immense 
importance and far-reaching. 

ONWARD AND UPWARD 

With this number of American Cook- 
ery we present to our readers a new 
Cook Book, as it w^ere, of no inconsider- 
able scope and value. Every house- 
keeper ought to find in it something, 
possibly much, of interest and usefulness. 
Home-making can not be left to luck 
or chance ; it is a matter of thought and 
study and practice. To keep up with 
the latest scientific ways in manipu- 



EDITORIALS 



207 



lating food-products requires a great 
deal of reading as well as intelligent 
endeavor. Sanitary handling, prudent, 
economic buying, the nutrient value 
of each article of food, all are subjects 
of growing interest and importance 
to the housewife. The expert must 
have training and experience. 

There is a grain of truth in the re- 
marks of a shrewd observer, they that 
can cook cook; they that can't teach. 
We are of the opinion that teachers of 
domestic science are not so much in 
demand to-day as good housekeepers 
and skilful employes. The highest bene- 
fit one can secure from this or any 
other periodical is the incentive to 
do, to achieve better things, in the 
common parlance of the day, to keep 
up with the procession. 

FALSE AND TRUE PATRIOTISM. 

THE simple meaning of the word 
"patriotism," "love of country," 
has a pleasant thought. But to the 
great majority it carries also an uncon- 
scious element of national vanity and 
racial prejudice. Since Tolstoi's day, 
thinking men begin to question the word. 
Even the bluff old Dr. Samuel Johnson 
said, "Patriotism is the last refuge of 
scoundrels." We have often wondered 
what he meant. We recall the burning 
of over five hundred towns and villages 
in France by the troops of one of the 
English Edwards, and fancy we know 
his meaning. We think of the burning 
of hundreds of Boer homesteads in 
Africa by English troops, and the fuller 
meaning dawns on us. We think of the 
most patriotic man in Europe today. 
Kaiser Wilhelm, and the devastation in 
Belgium. The word "patriotism" needs 
a revaluation, and it is an age of revalua- 
tions. 

We have been content to be patriotic 
in the same way that we have been con- 
tent to be truthful and honest — without 
reason or questionings. So far, patriot- 
ism has not been a rational conviction so 
much as a part of traditional morality. 



It has not been a reasoned habit of mind 
so much as a narrow, inbred disposition, 
often crooned into childish ears by well 
meaning, unthinking mothers in the 
same innocent way that theological 
superstitions are. There are ecclesias- 
tical Hes and patriotic Hes, and the 
methods of teaching them are much the 
same. Neither has a reasoned creed, 
but is the result of an unthinking pre- 
judice that clashes with the spirit of 
modernism. In these days we are 
finding that much of the spirit of pre- 
judice is finding a haven in patriotism, 
but "time turns the old days to de- 
rision." Patriotism, ss vulgarly under- 
stood, is little else but egoism, and its 
evolutionary history is proof that its 
birthplace was in the selfish, barbarous 
instincts of earlier man. Evolution 
is the golden key to unlock most things 
today, and we find that the himian race 
has passed through the clan stage to the 
tribe, province, and nation, and here we 
are today, and cannot get beyond it to 
the international and universal. 

There is nothing so painful as the 
birth of new ideas. We have to leave 
the hidebound formulae of past ideals 
and reach out toward a larger brother- 
hood. We plead for a broader patriotic 
outlook for our children. Patriotism, 
as commonly understood, is only a kind 
of national sectarianism. We must 
have on this question new thoughts, new 
sympathies. Any man's nationality is 
only an accident of birth. No one 
chooses his parents or the land of his 
birth. How silly, then, becomes 
national conceit. Our inherited in- 
stitutions do not express the larger 
modern life. Some of us can hardly 
breathe in the close atmosphere of the 
old meanings. 

Much of the so-called patriotism 
taught daily in our schools encourages 
racial ill will, and results in a cribbed 
national patriotism which is a low and 
selfish principle. In these matters chil- 
dren are taught to think round the par- 
ish-pump, and can know nothing of 



208 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



human unity. The great lesson is not 
the love of my country (my country 
might be wrong), but the love of man- 
kind. There is but one race, after all; 
we are all branches of the one stem. 
Our fatherland, our motherland is the 
earth. In a national education based on 
democratic and universal ideals you find 
the real cure for war. Our highest task 
today is to cultivate good will in the 
children. In this matter we must hold 
the mind to its course, the will to its 
duty. There must be no compromise or 
extenuating circumstances; the mind 
must be set on the square. The great 
tonic is universal brotherhood. The 
great poison is implacable hatreds. A 
new moral sense is rising; let us help it. 
Militarism and war must go to the limbo 
of other savageries. There is little to 
choose between the religious fanatic and 
the patriotic fanatic. Some boast of 
their sect, and others boast of their flag. 
Sectarians have adverse feelings toward 
other sects, and narrow patriots have 
adverse feelings toward other nations. — 
J. H. G. C, in The Christian Register. 

There is a good deal of talk like the 
foregoing at present. Certainly it is 
lofty in tone and commendable in the 
highest degree. The only criticism of 
it, if any, that can be made is that it 
is inopportune and thus more or less 
misleading. World-wide patriotism is 
an ideal state to be longed for; it may 
be cultivated and practiced when the 
several nations of the earth are at 
liberty to pursue, each its own career, 
according to its own ideals, unmolested, 
and in peace and prosperity. To many, 
the one incomprehensible fact to-day 
is the sudden advent of an awful and 
aggressive war. We had come to think 
that wars of conquest and subjugation 
were to be no more, that in the future 
civilized nations were to settle their 
controversies by arbitration and live 
at peace, one with another. Now and 
always people must and will protect 
themselves. This is self-evident. Such 



are the conditions of prolonged indi- 
vidual hfe and national existence. But 
what is more than this can not be 
justified. 

Another amazing circumstance that 
has been brought recently into light 
and prominence is the system of espion- 
age or spying which has been set up 
and carried on extensively among the 
nations. Manifestly, the time and 
money expended in the maintenance of 
such a net-work of espionage is simply 
enormous. Granted that all the nations 
are doing it, which we are slow to admit, 
is the object friendly and beneficent, 
or is it mischievous and malicious? 
At any rate, can friendly relations be- 
tween nations be long maintained when 
systems like these, and all that may be 
inferred from them, are in operation? 
Now it seems that the first lesson in 
patriotism for the nations of the earth 
to learn is the simple observance of the 
Golden Rule. 



OPTIMISM 



"The shallow optimist has said, *T 
don't care what happens, so long as it 
doesn't happen to me." He is shallow 
because nothing happens that does not 
happen to him. No man can separate 
himself from his fellows, or wholly 
escape the evil results of any act com- 
mitted by any other. In the unity of 
life we are so closely bound together that 
no man can be hurt without injury to all. 
There is no event that occurs anywhere 
that has not its universal influence for 
good or ill. Sane selfishness demands 
that a man should care not only for what 
happens directly to him, but for that 
which indirectly just as surely affects 
his life and happiness. A realization of 
this closer interrelation of humanity will 
do much to create that broader sym- 
pathy and interest which are so essential 
in the betterment of social conditions 
to-day. The wise optimist declares, 
**I must care what happens, for it 
happens tome." 




TABLE LAID FOR HALLOWEEN SUPPER 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet IM. Hill 



IN all recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the ilour is measured after sifting 
once. Where flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful 
is meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Chicken Stewed with Oysters 

SEPARATE a chicken into pieces 
at the joints, wash carefully, 
cover with boiling water and let 
boil quickly; after six to eight minutes 
reduce the heat and let the liquid sim- 
mer until the chicken is tender, about 
one hour and a half. Smooth half a 
cup of flour, half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper and a teaspoonful of salt with 
a little cream and stir into the hot 
liquid; stir until boiling, then again sim- 
mer fifteen minutes. Add one pint of 
oysters and quickly reheat to the boiling 
point. Ser^^e with hot baking powder 
biscuit and celery. 

Chicken, Mississippi Style 

Pass through a meat chopper one- 
fourth a pound, each, of veal and fresh 
pork, two slices of bacon, the chicken 



liver, half a green pepper and two 
branches of parsley; add a teaspoonful 
of scraped onion and a tablespoonful 
of Worcestershire sauce, half a tea- 
spoonful of salt and one-fourth a tea- 
spoonful of paprika ; mix thoroughly and 
use to stuff a young chicken. Truss 
the chicken for roasting; set to cook in 
an oven less hot than for an ordinary 
roast chicken, that the veal and pork 
may be thoroughly cooked before the 
chicken is browned enough for serving. 
Baste with hot fat (salt pork is good) 
each ten minutes and cook nearly two 
hours. Serve with sweet potatoes or 
rice. 

Calf's Liver a la Begue 

Cut a pound of calf's liver into half- 
inch cubes; wash, drain and add two 
onions cut in slices, a dash of paprika 
and half a dozen stalks of parsley, 



209 



210 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



chopped; cover and let stand about 
half an hour; shake the liver from the 
onions and roll in flour. Dispose in a 
frying basket and fry in deep fat. 

Brown Fricassee of Veal 

Cut a slice of veal from the leg into 
pieces for serving. Pound them with a 
"meat tenderer," or with the flat side 
of a cleaver, to reduce the thickness 
about one-half. Roll in flour and saute 
in fat from salt pork until browned on 
one side, then turn to brown the other 
side. When browned remove to a 
casserole; pour broth or hot water into 
the frying pan, and let boil until the 
browned juices are removed from the 
surface of the pan, then pour the liquid 



of kornlet. Cover with buttered crumbs 
(one-fourth cup of butter to one cup 
crumbs) and let cook about ten minutes, 
or until hot throughout and the crumbs 
are browned. 

Scalloped Tomatoes and Okra 

Use about equal measures of cooked 
okra in slices, and sliced tomatoes. For 
a generous pint of material melt two 
tablespoonfuls of butter; in it cook a 
tablespoonful, each, of chopped onion, 
green pepper and parsley. Mix half a 
cup of fine, soft bread crumbs with three 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter; dispose 
the tomatoes and okra in a baking dish 
in layers, with the chopped vegetables 
and crumbs sprinkled between the layers. 




SCALLOPED TO^L\TOES AXD OKRA 



into the casserole. Add salt and pepper 
as needed. Cover and let cook in a 
ver}^ moderate oven an hour or longer. 
Serve from the casserole. Tomato 
puree may be added. 

Scalloped Chicken and 
Kornlet 

Use remnants of chicken from a roast 
or boiled fowl. Free the meat from 
skin, bone and unedible portions. For 
each generous cup of meat take one cup 
of fresh corn pulp or of kornlet and one 
cup of cream sauce. Mix the chicken 
with the sauce, then dispose in layers in 
a baking dish or in individual dishes. 
A layer of chicken in sauce and a layer 



Do not brown the onions and pepper, 
simply soften them a little; cover the 
dish, and let cook about half an hour. 
If preferred, the dish may be left un- 
covered, and the last layer be of crumbs. 

Mayonnaise of Vegetables 
in Tomato Jelly 

Cut a hard-cooked egg into sections; 
cut the white to resemble petals of a 
flower; set them in proper order in the 
bottom of a mold with the sifted j^olk 
in the centre. Have a pan of ice and 
water at hand; in this set the decorated 
mold and the dish of tomato; when the 
tomato begins to thicken, put a little 
into the mold, a few drops at a time, 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



211 




MAYONNAISE OF VEGETABLES IN TOMATO JELLY 



to hold the decorations in place, then 
fill the bottom of the mold to the depth 
of half an inch. When the jelly is about 
"set," put a small mold filled with ice 
and water in the center of it, then 
gently add the liquid tomato to fill the^ 
space around the mold. Have ready 
about a cup of mayonnaise, half a table- 
spoonful of gelatine, softened in stock 
or water and dissolved over hot water, 
a cup of cooked green peas, half a cup 
of fine-shredded celery or cabbage, any 
bits of egg left from the decoration, or 
a few tablespoonfuls of fine-cut chicken 
or veal, a few capers, bits of pimiento 
or olives. Mix all these articles to- 
gether and stir over ice-water until the 
mixture begins to set. Remove the 
ice from the inner dish, pour in a little 
warm water, and gently lift out the 
mold. Into the open space, thus left, 
turn the mayonnaise mixture ; cover this 
with more of the tomato, filling the 
mold with it. Anv mixture left over 



may be turned into timbale molds. 
Tomato Jelly 

Cook one can of tomatoes, a table- 
spoonful of sugar, two slices of onion, 
a stalk of celery, two branches of parsley, 
a slice of green pepper and half a tea- 
spoonful of salt twenty minutes in an 
uncovered saucepan; press through a 
sieve; add a package (two ounces) of 
gelatine, softened in one cup of cold 
water, and dissolved over boiling water. 

Egg Plant, Creole Style 

Cut a large egg plant in slices; pare 
off and discard the skin, then cut the 
slices into cubes half an inch or less in 
diameter. Pour boiling water over the 
cubes and let cook until tender (about 
twenty minutes). Melt two table- 
spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan. Add 
two onions, peeled and chopped fine, 
and half a green pepper, chopped; stir 
and cook until the onions are softened 




EGG PLANT. CREOLE STYLE 



212 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and yellowed slightly; add the cubes of 
egg plant drained in a colander, a cup 
and a half of soft bread crumbs, half a 
teaspoonful or more of salt, a dash of 
paprika and about a cup and a half 
of fresh or canned tomato, cut in pieces; 
stir until hot throughout, turn into a 
buttered baking dish, cover with three- 
fourths a cup of cracker crumbs mixed 
with three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter and let cook in the oven fifteen 
to twenty minutes. 

Porto Rico Salad 

Select eight choice tomatoes; let 
chill and remove the skin ; cut out a small 
portion entirely around the stem end 
of each, and with a spoon remove the 



milk, and, lastly, three-fourths a cup 
of cornmeal, one cup and a half of white 
flour, one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt 
and three level teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder, sifted together. Bake in an iron 
muffin pan or in a bread-stick pan and 
a French-roll pan. The mixture will 
fill a bread-stick pan with a dozen 
"flutes" and a roll pan making six rolls. 

Rhode Island Johnny Cake 

Sift together a scant half teaspoonful 
of salt and two cups of Rhode Island 
cornmeal (white corn ground in a wind- 
mill). Pour on just enough boiling 
water to scald the meal, without making 
it sloppy. Let it stand about fifteen 
minutes, then stir in enou^^h rich sweet 




CORNMEAL MUFFIN-MIXTURE BAKED IN BREAD-STK K I'AN AND I- RI:N( II-ROLL PAN 



pulp. Have ready three-fourths a cui^ 
of crisp shredded cabbage, one green 
pepper, shredded fine, the pulp taken 
from the tomatoes, cut fine, a table- 
spoonful or more of scraped onion, and 
a scant half-teaspoonful, each, of salt 
and paprika. Mix all together 
thoroughly and use to fill the tomatoes. 
Set the tomatoes on crisp heart-leaves 
of lettuce and dispose a generous tea- 
spoonful of mayonnaise above the filling 
in each tomato. 

Cornmeal Muffins 

Beat three tablespoonfuls of butter to 
a cream; gradually beat in half a cup of 
sugar, then add one egg and the yolk 
of another, beaten light, one cup of 



milk to make a stiff batter. Dispose, 
in tablespoonfuls, in a hot, well-oiled 
frying pan (use fat from salt pork); let 
cook until brown on one side, then turn 
to brown the other side. 

Orange-and-Pineapple 
Bombe Glace 

Boil one quart of water and one pint 
of sugar twenty minutes, counting the 
time after boihng actually begins; add 
one teaspoonful of granulated gelatine 
softened in two or three tablespoonfuls 
cold water and strain into the can of the 
freezer; when cold add the juice of one- 
lemon and one cup and three-fourths of 
orange juice and freeze in the usual 
manner. Use this mixture to line a 



SEASONABLE RECIPICS 



213 




^.^■^ 



LETTUCE HEARTS. SLICED PEACHES AND CELERY, WHITE GRAPES (SKINNED AND 
SEEDED), FRENCH DRESSING 



two-quart melon mold; fill the center 
with pineapple cream, cover the cream 
with some of the frozen orange mixture 
filling the mold to overflow. Spread a 
piece of parchment paper over the con- 
tents of the mold and press the cover 
in place over the paper. Bury in equal 
measures of salt and crushed ice; let 
stand about one hour and a half. 

Pineapple Cream 

Boil one-third a cup of sugar and 
half a cup of grated pineapple juice and 
pulp to the soft ball stage, and pour in a 
fine stream on the white of one egg 
beaten dry, beating constantly mean- 
while. When cold fold in one cup of 
cream, beaten very light and chilled, 
and use to fill the mold. A table- 
spoonful of lemon juice may be added to 
intensify the flavor of the pineapple. 

Sea Moss Farine Blancmange 

Set one quart of whole milk over the 
fire in a double boiler; add the thin 
yellow rind pared from a well-washed 



lemon. Mix one level tablespoonful 
of Sea Moss Farine with half a cup of 
sugar until the two are thoroughly 
blended, then gradually stir into the 
cold milk; stir constantly while the milk 
is heating, then, occasionally, while 
cooking nearly half an hour. Strain 
into a mold. When chilled and firm, 
turn from the mold. Serve with cream 
and sugar or with sugared fresh fruit 
(berries or sliced peaches) or with fruit- 
jelly or preserves. 

Corn Relish 

Cut the corn from fifteen large ears of 
fresh-picked green corn; add four onions, 
three green peppers and one head of 
cabbage, chopped fine; add also one- 
fourth a cup of salt and one pint of 
vinegar and let cook fifteen minutes. 
Mix together two cups of sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of mustard, one tea- 
spoonful of tumeric, and one cup of 
flour, then stir to a smooth consistency 
with one pint of vinegar and stir into the 
first mixture; stir and cook five or six 




SEA-MOSS FARINE BLANC MANGE WITH BLUEBERRIES AND CREAM 



214 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



minutes, then store as pickles. 

Plum Conserve 

Cut two quarts of plums, the pulp of 
two oranges, two peaches and half a 
pound of seeded raisins into small pieces, 
add the rind of the oranges cut into 
minute cubes; let cook until the rind is 
tender, then add half a pound of pecan 
nut-meats, broken or chopped, and 
three-fourths a pound of sugar for each 
pound of mixture; let cook until the 
mixture jellies. 

Pineapple-and-Pear Preserves 

To each pound of fruit allow three- 
fourths a pound of sugar and three- 
fourths a cup of boiling water. Dissolve 
the sugar in the water, and let heat to 



and crushed ice, using equal measures 
of each. Let stand about one hour and 
a half; then with a can-opener cut around 
the can, about an inch below one end, 
take off the top of the can and remove 
the contents. Surround with a pint of 
sweet cream, mixed with one-third a 
cup of sugar and half a teaspoonful of 
orange or vanilla extract, beaten quite 
light. In the time mentioned, the salt 
and ice being proportioned as above, 
the pears will be frozen quite firm. If 
the can is to stand longer before being 
served, cut down the quantity of salt. 
The dish is at its best if not frozen too 
hard. 

Mrs. Hill's Laxative Wafers 

Beat one-fourth a cup of sugar into 



r^^^L ' '' Mm^^^KL^^ 


i 



CANNED PEARS, FROZEN IN CAN 



the boiling point. Cut the pears in 
halves, lengthwise, remove the cores 
and skin, and add to the hot syrup; let 
cook until the pears are tender. Add 
(for each pound of pears) one can of 
sliced pineapple (slices cut in quarters); 
add the syrup also — and let cook until 
the fruit is transparent. Store in 
sterilized jars, dipping the rubber bands 
in hot water before setting them in 
place. 

Frozen Canned Pears 

Remove the paper from a can of 
choice pears, and pack the can in salt 



one-third a cup of American petrofol 
(mineral oil); add one cup and one- 
fourth, each, of rolled oats, passed 
through a food chopper, and choice bran, 
one cup and three-fourths of sifted 
flour, sifted again with one level tea- 
spoonful of baking powder and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of salt, one-third 
a cup of water and the white of one egg, 
beaten light. Mix all togethei 
thoroughly to a dough, adding more 
flour if required. Knead slightly anc 
roll into a thin sheet. Cut into rounds 
and bake in a quick oven to an ambe: 
color. 



li 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



215 




BEST CAKE, COFFEE FILLING 



Best Cake 

Beat three-fourths a cup of butter to 
a cream; gradually beat in one cup and 
a fourth of sugar, the beaten yolks of 
four eggs, half a cup of cold water, two 
cups and one half of flour, sifted with 
three level teaspoonfuls baking powder, 
and, lastly, the whites of four eggs, 
beaten dry. Bake in two layers. Put 
the layers together with coffee filling 
and cover the top with maple frosting, 
and nut meats. The filling and frost- 
ing are particularly good with chocolate 
cake. 

Coffee Filling 

Stir one cup of brown sugar with one- 
fourth a cup, each, of strong coffee and 
cream until the sugar is melted; wash 
down the sides of the saucepan to re- 
move grains of sugar, cover and let boil 
three minutes; uncover and let boil to 
the soft-ball stage; add one tablespoonful 
of butter and beat a little, then spread 
on one layer of the cake; cover with the 



other layer, then when cold cover the 
top with 

Maple Xut Frosting 

Boil one cup and a fourth of maple 
syrup and one generous tablespoonful of 
Karo to 240° F.; pour in a fine stream 
on the whites of two eggs, beaten light, 
beating constantly meanwhile; add the 
nuts and when cooled somewhat use as 
indicated. 

White Cake 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then 
add, alternately, half a cup of milk 
and two cups of flour sifted with three 
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
Lastly, beat in the whites of three eggs, 
beaten dry. Bake in a pan about 11 
by 7 inches. Cover with 

Chocolate Marshmallow Icing 
(Miss Shea) 

Cut one-fourth a pound of fresh 
marshmallows into three pieces, each, 




WHITE CAKE, CHOCOLATE MARSHMALLOW ICING 



216 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




POP CORN BALLS 



and dispose side by side on the hot 
cake. Melt one-fourth a cup of butter 
and three squares or ounces of chocolate 
in a dish over hot water, then stir in 
three cups of sifted confectioner's sugar; 
add gradually four tablespoonfuls of 
strong coffee and one teaspoonful of 
vanilla and beat until creamy; then 
spread over the marshmallows on the 
cake, to cover them completely. Do 
not cover the cake and marshmallow 
with the frosting until the cake is cold. 

Halloween Cakes 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup of sugar, then 
three-fourths a cup of nuts, chopped 
fine, two eggs, beaten light without 
separating the whites and yolks, then 
add, alternately, half a cup of milk and 
one cup and three-fourths of flour 
sifted again with two and one-half level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake 



in small tins; spread confectioner's 
frosting above the cakes and set a tiny 
pumpkin, shaped of almond paste, with 
strips of anjelica for handles, above the 
frosting on each cake. The almond 
paste may be tinted with yellow color- 
paste or with yolk of egg. 

Popcorn Balls 

Melt one cup and a half of sugar in 
half a cup of molasses, one-third a cup 
of com syrup and one-third a cup of 
boiling water; wash down the sides of 
the pan with the tips of the fingers or 
a cloth dipped in cold water, cover and 
let steam five minutes, then uncover and 
let boil, stirring as needed, to 278° F.; 
add two tablespoonfuls of butter and 
half a teaspoonful of salt, mix and turn 
over about five quarts of hot popped 
corn. Mix the com and candy thorough- 
ly, then butter the hands and roll into 
balls. 





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^^^11 







HALLOWEEN CAKES 



Luncheon or Supper Menus for Tea Rooms or 

Private Houses 



Cheese Toast, Poached Egg above 

SHced Pineapple 

Cookies 

Corned Beef Hash, with Green Pepper 

Rolls Pickles 

Tapioca Custard, Vanilla Sauce 

■ Cold Baked Ham 

Rice Croquettes, Currant Jelly Sauce 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Creamed Corned Beef au Gratin 

(individual dishes) 

Mayonnaise of Vegetables in 

Tomato Jelly 

Yeast Rolls 

Creamed Chicken and Komlet 

Baking Powder Biscuits 

Sliced Tomatoes, French Dressing 

Chocolate Xut Cake 

Creamed Celery on Toast 

Poached Eggs 

Yeast Rolls 

Sliced Peaches, Sugared 

Cold Boiled Pickled Tongue 

Porto Rico Salad 

New Rye Bread 

Blackberr}^ Jam 

Tea 

Lamb-and-Tomato Soup 

Mayonnaise of Lettuce and Sliced Eggs 

Quick Yeast Rolls 

Baked Apples (Sweet) 

Honey Cookies 

Lamb Rechaufe, Creole Style 

Boiled Rice 

Chocolate Bread Pudding 

(individual) 

Creamy Sauce 

Chicken Breast and Ham in Aspic Jelly, 

Lettuce, Mayonnaise 

Bread and Butter 

Stewed Figs, Thin Cream 

Scalloped Onions 
Xut (noisette) Bread 

Sliced Tomatoes 
Jellied Apples, Cream 

Broiled Bacon 

Baked Potato 

Cup Custard 

Macaroons 



217 



Balanced Menus for One Week in October 



Breakfast 

Melons 

Creamed Finnan Haddie 

Baked Potatoes 

Coffee Bran Muffins Cocoa 

Dinner 

Baked Ham, Baked Sweet Potatoes 

Kohl Rabi; Creamed 

Bananas, Belgian Style 

Grape juice Parfait 

Sponge Cake 

Supper 

Mayonnaise of Vegetables in Tomato Jelly 

Yeast Rolls 

Sliced Peaches Orange Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream Bananas 
Broiled Bacon 

Brown Hashed Potatoes 
Baking Powder Biscuits (part Graham flour) 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Roast Ribs of Beef 

Franconia Potatoes Brown Sauce 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 

Eggplant Fritters Celery 

Blackberry Shortcake 

Supper 

Fresh Lima Beans in Cream 
Philadelphia Butter Buns 
Sliced Peaches 



Breakfast 

Baltimore Samp 

Maple Syrup 

Thin Cream 

Cold Ham, Sliced Thin 

French Fried Potatoes 

Hot Apple Sauce 

Coffee Toast Cocoa 

Dinner 

Hamburg Steak 

Eggplant, Creole Style 

Irish Potatoes, Baked 

Apple Dumpling Hard Sauce 

Supper 

Baking Powder Biscuits 

Honey in the Comb 

Sea-moss Farine Blancmange, 

Thin Cream and Sugar 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Baked Sweet Apples 

Frizzled Beef 

Hashed Brown Potatoes 

Rhode Island Johnny-Cake 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Tomato Soup 

Cold Roast Beef 

Potato Puffs 

Endive, French Dressing 

Jell-0 with Bananas 

Supper 

Risetto (rice with tomatoes and cheese) 

Apple Sauce 

Toast 

Honey Cookies 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Scrambled Ham and Eggs 

Cornmeal Muffins Baked in Bread Stick Pan 

Doughnuts 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Boiled Halibut; Caper Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Boiled Cauliflower au Gratin 

Sliced Tomatoes 

French Dressing with Onion Juice 

Canned Pears, Frozen, Whipped Cream 

Supper 

Ham Timbals, Cream Sauce 

Ryemeal Muffins 

Coddled Apples in Jelly, Thin Cream 

Laxative Wafers 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Filets of Fresh Fish, Fried 

Creamed Potatoes 

Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Scalloped Oysters 

Philadelphia Relish, Jellied 

Quick Yeast Rolls 

Apple Pie 

Cream Sugar 

Supper 

Tomato Rabbit Toast 
Graham Cracker Cake, Mocha Frosting 
Stewed Crabapples 
Tea 



Breakfast 

Grapes 

Roast Beef, Potato and Green 

Pepper Hash 

Tomato Catsup 

Waffles, Honey or Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 



Dinner 

Boiled Corned Beef 

(fancy brisket) 

Boiled Potatoes 

Boiled Cabbage 

Baked Indian Pudding 

Vanilla Ice Cream 

218 



Supper 

Boston Baked Beans 

Mustard Pickle 

Boston Brown Bread 

Laxative Wafers 

Stewed Pears 

Tea 



A New Way of Using Food Tables 

By Mrs. E. T. Brewster 



A GREAT deal is being written now, 
and most wisely, about provision- 
ing our households with an eye to the 
nutritive value of what we buy. We 
pay for things by the pound; but we 
can afford to pay twice as much for a 
thousand food-units as for five hundred, 
even though the two viands do weigh the 
same on the scales. In fact, a really 
modem efficiency engineer would as 
soon think of trying to get on without 
a vacuum cleaner in her house as without 
some list of "fuel values." Only by 
such means can she distinguish the 
substance of food from the shadow, and 
make sure of getting her money's worth 
of anything. 

So we have now-a-days a great deal of 
most valuable discussion of the cost of 
human energy. We learn that com 
meal, oatmeal, and wheat flour are the 
cheapest of all fuels that drive the 
human engine, with sugar, potatoes, 
dried beans, and rice only just behind 
them. We are told, quite correctly, 
that it costs twenty times more to drive 
an adult through an hour's toil or for a 
child to grow an ounce on halibut as on 
bread and butter. We have lists which 
give us the cost per thousand of calories 
of this, that, and the other foodstuff; 
and other lists of the amounts of energy 
to be had for a quarter or a dime in this, 
that, and the other form. 

Now all such, suggestive and valuable 
as they are, have always one drawback. 
They must assume some price for each 



article. Flour at four cents a pound, 
milk at nine cents a quart, potatoes at 
a dollar a bushel, give such and such 
economies. But prices vary. What 
the Purchasing Agent wants to know is 
what her thousand calories are to cost, 
what her quarter or her dime will buy 
at the particular prices which she herself 
has got to pay at each particular time. 
It is especially important, in the case of 
viands that vary greatly in price at 
different seasons of the year, to know 
just when they come within her range. 

Of course, she can do this with any 
ordinary food-table — such, for example, 
as the famous "Bulletin 28" of the 
United States Department of Agricul- 
ture. But it takes a lot of figuring. If 
1978 fuel-units cost 27 J cents, how 

much can be bought ? And the 

next day, or in the next shop, the price 
maybe 23 J cents! 

What the housekeeper wants, there- 
fore, is some device by which the printed 
table will show her at a glance whether 
any purchase is good buying or poor, 
without her having to stop to do long 
division. Such a device is the following : 

Any foodstuff is cheap, if it yields a 
thousand calories for a dime. Anything 
less than half this price is very economi- 
cal buying, indeed. Anything above 
twice this, begins to look like a luxury 
on which one may well exercise her 
judgment. 

If, now, one takes in any food-tables 
the column which gives the fuel values 



219 



220 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



in calories per pound, and imagines the 
decimal point shifted two places toward 
the left, the figures will then read 
directly the price per pound at which the 
food in question will give a thousand 
calories for ten cents. One has, then, 
only to compare this with the actual 
market price to know at once whether 
her cost is low, reasonable, or high. 

For example: Loin steak, without 
bone, is listed in "Bulletin 28" as 
having a "fuel value" of 1035 calories 
in each pound. At 10 cents a pound, 
therefore, — disregarding the odd 35 — 
it is a cheap food. At twenty cents it 
begins to be an expensive one. Chuck 
steak "free from all visible fat" lists 540. 
This then, becomes an economical food 
only when it • can be purchased in the 
region of five cents the pound. 

Cod and haddock can be bought 
at from five cents a pound to fifteen. 
But, since they have only about 300 
calories of nutriment in each pound "as 
purchased," they are dear even at 
five. 

But salmon, being much more nutri- 
tious, is as cheap at ten cents as, let us 
say, hake is at three. 

Butter has a nutritive value of 3600. 
Therefore it is cheap food at 36 cents a 
pound — which is about what it costs. 
The best lard (4200) would be equally 
cheap at 42. Either is as cheap as milk 
(325) at 6i cents a quart. 

On the other hand, wheat flour lists 
1600 calories in the pound. If, then, it 
cost 16 cents a pound, it would still be 
good buying. It actually does cost only 
a quarter of this price, and that makes 
almost the cheapest of all foods. But 
the same flour made into a breakfast food 
would cost about a cent an ounce. It 



is still, then, cheap; but not especially so. 

We think of white sugar as a luxury. 
But a pound of sugar contains 1860 units 
of energy. It will, therefore, not begin 
to be a luxury until it cost twice 18.6 
cents a pound — which it won't, just yet. 
We chide our young people for wasting 
their money on cakes and cookies, and 
wanting pie for lunch. But nearly all 
cakes and cookies, and many sorts of 
pie, stand above 1500 calories to the 
pound. Most of them do not cost many 
times fifteen cents a pound. Even 
candy at two pounds for a dollar is no 
dearer than salt codfish at eight cents 
for one pound. But mushrooms sell 
for a dollar a pound and are worth — two 
cents. 

In other words, these "fuel values" 
of the familiar tables, when divided by 
one hundred, give immediately, in cents 
per pound, a sort of ideal price for each 
separate foodstuff. They show the cost 
at which all foods would furnish equal 
amounts of energy for the same expendi- 
ture. This ideal price will vary from 
one cent a quart for canned bouillon and 
six cents a pound for liver, to twenty 
cents a pound for cheese and eighty- 
five cents a quart for olive oil. 

If, therefore, the actual market price 
is close to this figure or below it, then 
the article is a good buy — provided one 
wants it at all. If the actual market 
price is much above this "normal" 
figure, then it becomes a question of 
what else besides fuel value is thrown in 
with the purchase. We must have 
fuel value to. run the machine. Beyond 
that, is the question how much we can 
afford to pay for what we like or what 
we think is good for us. But all that 
is another story. 



A Merry Marauder 



As Summer's handmaid, faring homeward late, 
Set down her burden at the palace gate, 
Came Autumn, dallying along the road, 



Snatched up the basket with its priceless load 
And, at a sudden whim, about the land 
Tossed gold and jewels with a reckless hand. 
Harriet Whitney Symonds, 



Camping the Year Round 

By Minnie Caroline Clark 



EE. HALE wrote a book called 
"Tarry at Home Travels." 
• I use the word camping to mean 
getting away from wearing tasks; be- 
cause while one tarries at home one can 
no longer "take to the woods." There 
are so many new kinds of "camps" 
everywhere, and they are doing so many 
kinds of work, and so many kinds of 
play, all on schedule time, that instead 
of hunting them out for rest we have 
good reason to flee from the woods. ,No 
wonder people come back exhausted from 
a vacation! 

Now it isn't this kind of "organized" 
camp that I recommend. It is the kind 
of camping that lies at your own door, 
city or country, summer and winter. 
The spacious costly "camps" in the 
Adirondacks are big, attractive houses, 
where the guests are often much more 
happy than the busy servants, or the 
busier host and hostess. For one might 
as well have an office and be tied to it, 
as to plan for food and other guest-com- 
forts. American nerves are keyed up to 
such a degree that neither guest nor 
lady of the house has anything like the 
comfort that the English or French know 
how to give and take. 

The second point is this, that one must 
have the camping spirit. Heaven is 
said to be a state of mind : so is camping : 
you must make up your mind to "let go." 
There are always people so stiff that 
they can't unbend nor let any one else 
bend. We do not have time to "know" 
our own souls or our neighbor's. We 
play one big continuous game with an 
eye on some prize. We do not know 
how to win, letting the cards do all the 
work. People must trust their luck, 
which is. called faith, when we deal with 
religious belief. 

What ;We need is the California spirit 
with Eome of the mean features left out: 



such as boarding out of paper bags from 
poor delicatessen shops; sleeping in 
shabby expensive rooms; living in suites 
so cramped that hooks for clothes are 
often put oft the ceilings. If we dare 
to dress, breathe, eat, simply, California 
with all its mountains has little advantage 
over Chicago or Kansas City or Michi- 
gan or New England. The prairies of 
Illinois have bracing winds; and if we 
know enough to face our air, and supply 
ourselves with the proper caloric food 
and clothing, we can camp at home all 
winter. 

First, learn from the sensible Canadian, 
Englishman, and automobilists how to 
dress. Use one-piece garments, old 
ones, and those adapted for work or 
lounging. 

A Chicago bride, used to all elegances 
of mind and body — art, friends, music — 
went out to Ravinia, the suburb where 
Damrosch gives splendid summer con- 
certs. In the semi- woods, in the second 
floor of an old shabby house, I found 
her, radiantly happy! An outside stair- 
way led to the yard; at the top of the 
stairway were hoods, coats, arctics. 
These were a joy for wood-cutting and 
snow-journeys. The place had a fashion 
that came from knowing how to use 
space. There were bunkers and boxes 
for clutter and treasures. Yet, in ten 
minutes my lady could robe herself in 
exquisite apparel and run in to the 
Opera. 

Why should one not be fond of a 
"sincere" old coat, or hat or pair of shoes? 
And why should he not hate to see his 
wife throw them into the dust barrel, 
because there is not room for them? — 
especially when the man or woman needs 
the comfort that old slippers and — 
indeed -^ old friends — stand for ? We are 
learning to have moving-picture minds. 
They are not deep ones. Everything 



221 



222 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



precious has to "go on the road," unless 
it brings in immediate returns. Every- 
one ought to have room in his soul for 
"hobbies." They are priceless, are easily 
swapped, and keep many a man and 
woman from suicide. Even mother 
coyotes sometimes swap off their whole 
family. But we hardly have time to 
change our minds or to swap recipes. 
One professional woman was extolling the 
ten-cent store: — "Just think," she said, 
"I can get a ten-cent strainer or a pair 
of stockings! It is no trouble to get 
a new kettle." Another woman ob- 
jected: "But I do not want to buy a 
strainer every month or week. I want 
a good old English tin or silver one that 
will last. The strain is on me when I 
must buy a new strainer or pair of 
stockings every week!" Which woman 
had the right idea? 

"The grasshopper is a burden." In 
the average house the number of grass- 
hoppers, or little duties, is so great that 
they seem to be mobilizing, as they do in 
Kansas. What we want is a cinch bug 
to kill them off. Most of us are like 
the old man who said he was glad to end 
life because it was tiresome to be taking 
off his shoes at night and putting them 
on in the morning. [Probably he should 
have been given some pumps.] 

If the housekeeper would not waste 
her life in washing tureen covers! 

Now, in the house, I would advise 
putting away extra furniture, and clothes. 
If they are packed out, sweeping and 
living become easy. Roll the rugs into 
a divan, put the pillows on top. It is 
surprising how man, woman, and child 
likes to sit on the floor. You can't 
drop your tools and sewing; your feet 
and books are where you can get at them. 
For work, tools, etc., it is well for each 
person to have a big basket, where 
pick-up material can wait till wanted. 
A bath-and-dressing basket for the 
bathroom is a saver of time and thought. 

If possible let all the family help 
prepare the food. It is a shame to 
deprive all children of this pleasure. The 



little son of Emmons Blaine was very 
proud to show me some oatmeal he had 
cooked in school. Make the athletic 
school-boy realize that strerigth and 
skill are more useful in the kitchen than 
in foot ball. Let each member of 
family dress suitably, with a frank apron. 
Serve food on one plate, if paper ones 
are not at hand, every fellow serve him- 
self, and return his dishes to sink or 
table. Let dishwashing time be a con- 
cert — with the stress on the "kettle-- 
drum" part, shared by various helpers. 
Save all dishes until the frogs are tuning 
up, or till the shops close. Then clear 
the decks for singing or dancing. Set 
the piano, or graphophone or voices, 
and if the children do leave a little wet 
on the plates it is better than tears on 
their cheeks. And the family, yes, 
even the "company" is happy to have 
his own dish-wiping part in the per- 
formance. All this I have seen done, 
and more. One Chicago doctor of means, 
when he gave big course dinners, had 
his boy of eight, dressed in a quaint 
costume, wait on the guests. The boy 
learned real hospitality — with a butler 
and maid in the house, too! 

There are so many parks, museums 
in the city, and so many places and 
friends neglected! How happy the 
children are when you say suddenly, 
"Let's go to the woods today! Come 
on! We'll go to the show, tonight!" 
We are all willing to get on our 
knees for an "unexpected blessing," like 
"Elizabeth in her German Garden." 

My New York cousin used to have 
Wednesday night crabs. About a big 
pan of crabs, at the kitchen table, was 
a joyous group of men, in shirt sleeves, 
and women, using paper napkins. They 
were elegant people ; yet the men resented 
any suggestion of dining room or linen! 
What a pity that the spirit of the Boy 
or Girl Scout can't be transferred to these 
kind, helpful home duties: a "campfire" 
every night, and the home not robbed, 
as it is now, of the presence and sympathy 
of the boy or girl "busy" elsewhere. 



CAMPING THE YEAR AROUND 



223 



For summer it is advisable to have 
cheese-cloth garments, which even a 
boy can wash; for winter, cast-off and 
cut-off clothes, and cut-off heels, and 
sandals made from tops of old shoes. 
It would be well to have the men save 
themselves from baldness by wearing 
lace caps, as the women do; but that is 
a mere detail. 

If you haven't been refreshed by sea 
baths during the summer, buy a bag 
of bath salt and some scratch towels. 
If, in season, you are in a place where 
the open or a yard allows, just try the 
simimer sport of running out in a rain- 
storm, in some one-garment rag! It 
will teach the children not to fear light- 
ning (if they avoid trees.) 

It was easy to play camp and cut 
my own kindling this winter. It is 
splendid for the lungs. [Think of the 
men in the trenches!] None of the un- 
employable seemed to keep his promise; 
so I had to do it. And curiously enough 
none • of my so-called, high-brow Cam- 
bridge neighbors seemed to think strange 
that I wished to borrow a hatchet, at 
this time, when we are all wishing 
Germany would bury, the hatchet! 

Sun-bathing in winter needs no di- 
rections except a reminder never to wear 
black, or take cold. This is a wondrous 
curative and preventive. So is the 
bath learned from sensible old Ben 
Franklin. Taking a "Franklin" is 



merely letting the body have an air 
bath, while your clothes hang on a 
"hickory limb," and your limbs hang 
an\n;\^here w^here the sun strikes them. 
Isadora Duncan and the Greeks, and 
the Indians understand how this bath 
keeps one from ailments. 

Of the Americans, as of the English- 
man, the French say: "On ne s' amuse 
pas'': now this phrase means something 
better than to amuse oneself, or to be 
entertained. America sets the pace for 
food- waste and man- waste for the world. 
Can't we get time to do a little home- 
camping and so make time to, at least, 
think of neglected duties to ourselves? 
and our wounded and bereaved neigh- 
bors ? — both at home and across the 
seas? Perhaps someone who wishes to 
do so will find time to read in this year 
of our War, William Morris's book 
called: "How We Live and How We 
Might Live." We all know he was a 
poet, a great artist, a rich man, who made 
with his hands and brain splendid 
fabrics and designs. But do we know 
that he said the very thing that I have 
meant to suggest? Can not each reader 
adapt his own case to suit his or her own 
circumstances? He sa\'S: *T build fine 
houses for other people, but in reality 
my idea of a house is more like a big 
room — in one comer of which I receive 
my friends, in the other do my work, 
in the third sleep." 



Pink Hollyhocks 



Hollyhocks, pure cups of pink, 
Filled with sunshine to the brink, 
Boon of bee, rich passer-by, 
Chalices for butterfly. 



Flowers that our grandames knew, 
Through the years we cherish you, 
Love your simple, hardy cheer, 
Garden neighbors without peer. 



Homely, graceful is your mien. 
Sturdy stalks and buds plump green. 
Leaves coarse-grained, plebeian bom, 
Petals fair with flush of mom. 



In our hearts your joy we'd keep, 
Joy of summer, mellow, deep. 
Bless us with your sunlit worth, 
Hollyhocks of heaven and earth. 



Clara Seaman Chase, 



I 



The Ideal Kitchen of Today 

By George E. Walsh 



THE kitchenette found in so many 
apartments today is based on 
efficiency, and the elimination of 
motions is carried to the point where, 
in the words of one good housekeeper, 
"one can't move around without knock- 
ing something down and messing up 
the whole place." Opposed to this 
apology for a kitchen is the big, roomy, 
airy kitchen, which in many instances 
is the pleasantest room in the house — 
an excellent place to live in, but too big, 
and unwieldy for a workshop. And the 
kitchen is a workshop if it is anything! 

The housewife prepares in the course 
of a year about 1,100 meals. On the 
average she must make from four to ten 
trips to and fro from the kitchen range 
to the dining room table in serving each 
meal. That means, in the course of a 
year, a walk of 400 miles, at a minimum, 
and a 1000 miles, at a maximum. Think 
of it! Five times to New York and 
Baltimore and back just to serve the 
meals! 

If we cut the distance down from range 
to dining room table one half, we save 
enough in the annual walk to give one 
a chance to recuperate from the eternal 
drudgery. But this walk is only a part 
of what the housewife must take in 
preparing the meals. There are endless 
trips between sink and range, and from 
china closet to table, and from refrig- 
erator to cupboard. When you com- 
pute the distance one must travel in the 
course of a year in the big kitchen, one 
begins to tinderstand the psychological 
reason for the coming of the small, 
compact kitchenette. 

The ideal kitchen, laid out with a 
view to eliminating unnecessary steps, is 
neither big nor little — but just right 
in size. Instead of designing a house 
with reference to all the front rooms. 



and then allotting what space is left to the 
kitchen, architects might do worse than 
locating and laying off the kitchen, and 
then building the rest of the house around 
it. Perhaps the house would not be as 
pretty inside, but it would be efficient 
as a place to live and work in. 

Most kitchens are of an awkward 
shape, and as a result the range, refrig- 
erator, sink, and cupboard are placed 
wherever room can be found for them. 
The square kitchen, from the point of 
efficiency, is better than the oblong one, 
for steps can be saved thereby. Have 
it designed as a workshop, bright and 
cheery, but as compact as conditions 
permit. 

The range should have the first choice 
of positions. This should not be tucked 
away in a comer as far from the dining 
room door as you can place it, but along- 
side the wall as close to the butler's 
pantry or dining room as possible. It 
should be accessible on three sides for 
repairs and cleaning. Every foot of 
distance between the range and dining 
room saved will count. 

The sink should be considered next. 
This is used almost as much as the 
range, and the trips from it to the 
dining room are so numerous that a 
few feet saved on each trip will count 
enormously in the course of a day's 
work. Also the trips between the sink 
and range are frequent in preparing 
a meal. Therefore, the sink should be 
alongside the range so that one can step 
from one to the other instantly. 

The third important equipment of the 
kitchen is the cupboard or closet for 
holding pots, pans, and dishes, and 
according to the modem rules of efficiency 
this should be placed on the side of the 
range opposite the sink or alongside of 
the latter — not on the opposite side of 



224 



THE IDEAL KITCHEN OF TODAY 



225 



s^.; 



rjti'jg j>\r,K 



.of < 



6co7or77ical(y ArrarTped 



3X 



the room. No matter how efficiently 
the cupboard is arranged with respect 
to holding pots and pans, it is inefficient 
if you have to cross the whole kitchen 
to get at it. 

In a small compact kitchen this 
arrangement may be changed somewhat. 
The sink and range can be placed along- 
side of each other, with the closet or 
cupboard at right angles within easy 
reaching distance. It is then reached by 
simply turning around. 

The fourth equipment, in the order 
of importance, is the refrigerator. For 
economy's sake this cannot be placed 
too near the range, but that does not 
mean it should be tucked as far away as 
possible, reaching it, as is often the case, 
by going down an alley or outside. The 
refrigerator should be set in the wall, 
with an outside door for icing, and an 
inside door for reaching the food supply. 
Such arrangements are becoming quite 
common now, and architects build 
refrigerators in this way in many of 
their new, up-to-date houses. The 
outside door simply opens into the ice 
compartment so that ice can be stored 
in it without tracking mud and water 
across the kitchen floor. The outside 
air keeps the place chilled, and counter- 
acts the melting effect of the inside 
heat. Also this enables you to have the 
refrigerator within easy reaching dis- 



tance without waste of ice from the heat 
of the range. The ideal way is to have 
the refrigerator sunk in the wall next 
to the closet or cupboard. 

The four important equipments of 
the kitchen once placed together in a 
compact space, the rest of the furnish- 
ings can be tucked away as space permits. 
Drop table, kitchen table or the extra 
closet can be arranged wherever most 
desirable. Also towel rack, steam radi- 
ator, if there is one, and additional 
shelvings. 

The kitchen, no matter how small, 
should be well lighted. The more 
windows the better. Good ventilation 
and light are as essential to the kitchen 
as any other part of the house. Saving 
steps is not the only consideration in 
the ideal kitchen. There must be good 
sanitary surroundings, and these can be 
obtained only with light and plenty 
of fresh air. 

Spigots in the kitchen should be 
nickled as in the bath room. Brass 
spigots take up too much time to keep 
clean. Instead of two separate spigots, 
there should be one for hot and cold so the 
temperature of the water can be regulated 
to suit the needs. If governed by 
both hot and cold water keys or cocks 
there will be no difficulty in getting the 
right temperature at any time. The 
spigot should be fitted with a thread so a 
short hose can be attached at any time. 
In cleaning, this will save . an endless 
amount of work. Even the outside of 
the windows can be cleaned quickly and 
effectively, as well as the floor, with 
this kitchen hose. 

The kitchen range should be chosen 
to suit the individual needs of the house- 
keeper. The oven must be placed at a 
distance from the floor which will not 
require back-breaking postures to reach. 
A tall woman needs a higher range than 
a short one. 

A tile floor is always attractive for a 
kitchen, for it is easily cleaned and a 
non-absorbent of grease, but it is hard 
on the feet and ver}^ cold in the winter. 



226 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Many patent compositions of wood 
have been tried in recent years to pro- 
duce the ideal kitchen floor, free from 
cracks and crevices, non-absorbent and 
sanitary, and not hard and cold to the 
feet. But little improvement has been 
obtained over the old-fashioned rift- 
sawed, hard-pine wood carefully laid. 
If properly laid and oiled, such a floor 
will not crack and open the seams. Only 
rift-sawn boards should be used, how- 
ever, for any other kind means slivering 
and splinters. 

Wall treatment of a kitchen is another 
point that finds various conflicting 
opinions among architects and even 
housewives. By mutual consent, how- 
ever, wall paper for the kitchen is 
considered undesirable from a sanitary 
point of view. Paper can be used never- 
theless, if the surface is covered with 
shellac so that wiping and w^ashing are 
permitted; but the shellac must be 



renewed every six months to a year. 
Well painted walls seem to give the best 
results, and if a good, pretty tint is 
selected, there is nothing more artistic. 

Hard cement plaster, applied to 
metal lath, and finished in grooved 
lines to resemble tiles, and then treated 
to several coats of oil paint, gives a 
beautiful and sanitar^^ w^all for the 
kitchen. A final coat of enamel makes 
even a more perfect finish. The enamel 
surface can be wiped with a damp 
cloth without taking away its gloss. 

It costs no more to design and equip 
a kitchen properh^ than to have it done 
in a haphazard way, but in the end 
the economy of labor and efficiency in 
work compensates in a thousand ways. 
The day's heavy work is also performed 
under pleasant conditions that rob it of 
half its drudgery, and one must consider 
the psychology- of environments in such 
questions, to secure the highest results. 



On Mother's Baking-Day 



When mother's baking-day comes round, 

I'll tell you what I do, 
I wait until they're nice and brown, 

And then I know she's through, 
And that she'll call me pretty soon, 

And say, "Come, little man, 
I'll give you my big mixing spoon. 

And let you scrape the pan." 



And so I scrape the golden dough 
All fragrant with the spice — 

I must admit of all I know, 
There's nothing quite as nice. 

The cakes are crisp and brown and good, 
And how I make them go! 

But I would have her, if I could, 

Just let them all stay dough. 



Some day, when I'm a great big man, 

I'll marry me a wife, 
And then I think I have a plan 

To happy be through life. 
I'll tell her when she goes to bake, 

"Remember Jif '^you- Jean, 
And use jus' half the dough in cake, 

Then let me scrape the pan." 

Ruby Erwin Livingston. 




Home Ideas 

and 
jEcONOMIEvSJ- 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted itenas will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



A Silhouette Party 

TO decorate the house for this 
unusual party, choose yellow 
flowers and combine them with 
wheat sprays and tie them with black 
ribbons. The only illumination should 
be from pumpkin lanterns and those 
of white paper with black silhouette 
figures on them of cats, bats, witches, 
brooms, half-moons, and imps. 

Cover the dinner with a white crepe 
paper cloth having a silhouette border 
of witches, cats and other symbols; in 
the center of the table stand a "wishing 
well," made of black card board placed 
above a glass plateau that resembles 
water, and when the hostess raises the 
bucket with the old sweep it contains 
a love token for each guest. A black 
satin ribbon two inches wide runs from 
under the well to each black and white, 
striped service plate of cubist fashion. 
Little half-pumpkins hold the olives and 
radishes, while little black pots, witch's 
cauldrons, hold the salted nuts. 

Perched on the rim of each water 
glass, by way of a place card, are 
silhouettes of witches for the men, the 
name being written across her skirt 
in white ink, and cats for the women, 
with the name written about the collar. 
White wooden candle sticks, with black 
and white striped candles, are shaded 
with Httle Empire shades of white 
paper with the silhouette figures run- 
ning around them. Above the table 
there is a white silk inverted parasol, 
with a drooping fringe of the silhouette 
symbols interspersed with tiny yellow 



pumpkins. In the parasol are appro- 
priate Halloween souvenirs. Each is 
attached to a little black satin ribbon 
that has a bow tied at the end, which 
droops over and below the silhouette 
fringe. 

The guests are requested to come 
gowned in black and white magpie 
costumes, the only touch of color allowed 
being a little pumpkin yellow; they are 
to appear as much like silhouette figures 
as possible. 

The usual Halloween games are 
played after dinner, followed by general 
dancing to which others besides the 
inner guests are invited. 

The menu should follow the black 
and white idea, as far as it is practical, 
in the way of garnishes, jellies and so on; 
the one offered as a suggestion may aid 
in planning a party of this kind. 

Menu. 

Gnome Cocktails 

Black Marble Canapes 

Witch's Gruel 

Deviled Fish 

Barnyard Pheasant, Baked Tomato 

Glazed Sweet Potatoes 

Mystery Salad 

Hidden Joy in a Frozen Sea 

Coffee. 

The Gnome cocktail is made prin- 
cipally of fruit. Halve and seed enough 
white grapes to fill two cups; add one 
cup of grapefruit pulp having carefully 
removed all the white skin from it, two 
tablespoonfuls of fine-chopped preserved 
ginger, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and 
a dash of nutmeg; chill, fill the glasses 



227 



228 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



three quarters full, topping them with 
cap of mint leaves, and serve. 

Allow one tablespoonful of the best 
caviar for each canape; add to it a 
tablespoonful of Chutney syrup, a dash 
of mignonette pepper and one hard- 
boiled egg that has been put through 
the ricer. Lay on toast rounds, garnish 
with red pepper cut into half-moon 
shape and serve. 

For the gruel make a good, rich 
chicken bouillon, and serve with a heap- 
ing teaspoonful of whipped cream on 
top of each cup, garnished with a little 
sliced truffle. 

Boil two pounds of cod; when cold 
free it from skin and bones and flake it, 
then add to it three-quarters a cup of 
soft bread crumbs, a gill of melted but- 
ter, a gill of cream, pepper, salt, two 
tablespoonfuls of Chutney syrup, a 
tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce, 
and one beaten egg; fill large, well 
buttered ramekins with the mixture, 
dusting the tops with grated cheese. 
Bake and serve, garnished with a spray 
of parsley across the top and a small 
tureen of tart are sauce. 

Stuff and prepare the capon in the 
usual way; serve, garnished with glazed 
sweet potatoes and baked tomatoes 
stuffed with an artichoke stuffing made 
in the following way: One bottle of 
artichokes drained and chopped, one 
cup of bread crumbs, half -cup of 
fine-chopped celery, half-cup of fine- 
chopped nuts, pepper, salt, the beaten 
white of one egg, tablespoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce, two tablespoon- 
fuls of tomato ketchup and two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter. Hollow 
firm tomatoes; stuff and bake them in 
the usual way but do not allow them to 
fall to pieces. A pretty way to bake 
them is to place each one on a slice 
of Madagascar artichoke heart; these 
come, bottled, from the Island and are 
the largest we get in this market; they 
measure two or three inches in diameter. 
Tiny hot biscuits go with this course. 

Blend together a package of cream 



cheese and its weight in Roquefort 
cheese, adding enough sweet cream to 
soften it slightly; add pepper, salt, 
and a tablespoonful of sharp Mayon- 
naise. Blanche some hazel nuts; form 
the cheese mixture into soft balls with 
a nut in the center of each. Cut the 
white centers from two heads of chic- 
ory, wash carefully and cut in small 
pieces with the kitchen scissors; drop 
the cheese-balls into this; lay up the 
salad in white lettuce leaves with 
mayonnaise. 

Have the ice-cream frozen very hard, 
vanilla and pistachio; cut into little 
blocks and cover them with a choco- 
late mousse. Serve at once with sponge 
squares, frosted domino-fashion. J. Y. N. 
* * * 

Combination of Flowers for 
Decorative Purposes 

SOME combinations of flowers are 
ugly and unnatural while others 
are exquisite and dainty. 

The man of the family was dis- 
appointed this season because the snap- 
dragons were all light colors and as he 
expressed it — insipid and colorless. 

One day his wife tried an unusual 
and, to her, unheard of combination for 
the porch, — a huge North Carolina jar 
of unglazed brown pottery filled with 
canary-colored snap-dragons and deep 
blue larkspur. 

The effect was stunning, each bringing 
out what was lacking in the other. 

Many were the exclamations and 
compliments directed to that color 
scheme. 

Violet and pink sweet peas are beauti- 
ful together when loosely arranged in a 
flaring glass bowl. 

Pansies are better when arranged in 
low glasses on a bed of white caraway 
blossoms, wild ageratum, or clematis 
or when combined with the beautiful 
pink and white clover. 

English daisies need mignonette, lemon 
verbena or a frieze of skeleton geranium 
leaves to bring out their full beauty and 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



229 



simplicity as table decorations and should 
be loosely arranged as they are inclined 
to be tight or stiff. 

Heliotrope is always lovely when com- 
bined with half-blown hybrid rose buds 
and their own foliage. 

Old-fashioned bachelor buttons when 
combined with wild roses made an 
effective centre piece on a luncheon 
table which received rnany compliments. 

Many flowers are much better alone 
and cannot stand combining with others, 
as for instance nasturtiums, California 
poppies, and coreopsis. 

We have only to look about us on 
every side to find plenty of unique and 
attractive flowers for decorative pur- 
poses. 

The commonest blossoms and berries 
are too often ignored, and passed by 
while we seek the florist's stock. C. M. A. 



An Arctic Tea Party 

COME in plain white dresses, nice, 
"Help us chop the Arctic Ice. 
"Four o'clock P. M. tomorrow 
"(You need no calendar to borrow) 
"At my house drink tea and know 
"All about the Esquimaux." 

This cooling summons will meet with 
acceptance in a warm week of July or 
August. The invitations should be let- 
tered in green ink on squares or dia- 
monds of Bristol board, and a small knot 
of green ribbon can be tied at the top. 

The invitations should be left the af- 
ternoon preceding the Tea by a messen- 
ger, who may at the same time receive 
the acceptance or refusal. (This will be 
necessary, or at any rate, preferable, on 
account of the quantity of refreshments 
to be provided.) 

The decorations of the Tea Room 
should be left as late as possible. The 
object of the tea is to simulate as far 
as convenient, the atmosphere of the 
Arctic Circle. Clear the room of all un- 
necessary furniture. Pin sheets (or at- 
tach with thumb tacks; a 25-cent box 
of ordinary one-piece tin thumbtacks is 



the best) to all the walls of the room. 
Cover the floor with sheets. The six 
or seven chairs remaining in the room 
should also be swathed with sheets, as 
well as the dining table. If it is not too 
warm outside, close the blinds, to pro- 
duce semi-darkness. On the mantle two 
or three blue lights and a green one, 
will shed an "Aurora Borealis," effect. 
These lights may be made thus: Take 
out one side of a box and cover over the 
hole with green tissue paper. Put a 
candle, lighted, inside. In addition to 
this illumination place a ring of lighted 
candles around the edges of the table. 
They should be about eight inches apart. 
Within the circle place all the mirrors 
obtainable. (Their edges and frames 
can be hidden with cotton batting) . On 
the surface of this "mirrorice," should 
stand little reindeer, sleighs, men and 
polar bears, (If these are not to be 
obtained at a local ten-cent store, gro- 
tesque animals can be made out of 
potatoes and toothpicks.) Here and 
there on the table should be placed white 
china mixing-bowls, turned upside down. 
If they are moistened with water and a 
flour-sifter is shaken over them, the ef- 
fect will be quite like the "Igloos," or 
Esquimaux house of our geography- 
book memories. 

At one end of the table there should 
be a large bowl of lemonade or sherbet. 
This can be served into small individual 
glasses. At the opposite end of the table 
a large "igloo" of vanilla ice-cream may 
be served with "snow" (angel-cakes) or 
"hoar-frost" (white Jordan almonds). 

On the walls squares of cardboard 
may be printed with facts about Esqui- 
mo life. (These may be found in the 
encyclopaedia.) They should be funny 
or interesting, such as: "Blubber is good 
to eat; we use it for our lamps, too!" 

Everyone wants to help "chop the 
Arctic Ice," too. A large bandbox top 
has been marked off in inch-squares. 
These squares are numbered. The ice- 
chopper closes his eyes and hits a num- 
ber with a toy hatchet. The number 



230 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



corresponds with a present (pencils, 
pens, erasers, needles, pins and candy, 
make good presents). A little girl in a 
white dress gives away "Reindeer-hide 
shoe-strings." These are ordinary shoe- 
strings but, being "gratis" have a pecu- 
liar virtue. 

At the other side of the room "the 
Midnight Sun" is being exhibited; on 
top of a tall stepladder (draped in 
white), rests a large summer squash. 
Everyone may take one chance at knock- 
ing it off with an orange. When it falls, 
amid peals of laughter, probably, the 
successful shot wins it, and another 
squash is put up. (Fortunately "Mid- 
night Suns" are cheap!) 

The whole effect should be cool, re- 
freshing, and a little spooky. If any- 
thing else can be added in the way of 
white flowers or weird lighting effects, 
so much the better. A sudden snow- 
storm of popcorn from a corn-popper 
would be in keeping, or stuffed animals 
(especially owls), perching on unex- 
pected heights. 

Do not let the guests stay after the 
sherbet melts and the room gets stuffy. 

A. P. 



Some Things to Remember 

1. A good cake should be light, fine 
grained, tender, and moist without 
being sticky. 

2. If a cake is sticky, it is because it 
has not been sufficiently baked or too 
much sugar is used. 

3. Bread flour may be used in place 
of pastry flour for cake making, pro- 
vided two tablespoonfuls of cornstarch 
are substituted for two tablespoonfuls 
of flour in each cup. 

4. Fine-grained sugar makes better 
cake than coarse-grained. 

5. It takes one and one- third cups of 
powdered sugar to equal a cup of 
granulated sugar, and one and one-half 
cups of brown sugar to equal one of 
granulated sugar. 

6. Eggs preserved in water glass or by 



other reliable method may be used in 
cake making in place of fresh eggs. 

7. Egg-powders are successful in 
cakes containing fats, but in sponge 
cakes fresh eggs should be used. 

8. One half of a cupful of chicken fat 
is equal to one half-cup of butter. 

9. One half of a cup of cotton seed 
oil, less one tablespoohful,is equal to one 
half -cup of butter. 

10. One fourth of a cup of butter 
plus three tablespoonfuls of lard equals 
one half-cup of butter. 

11. Water in which potatoes have 
been boiled may be used as a suitable 
substitute for sweet milk in making 
cake. 

12. Cake containing fruit must be 
baked very slowly because part of the 
fruit will be at the surface and if this is 
scorched, the flavor is spoiled. 

13. When nuts are used in a cake a 
little less shortening is necessary. 

14. If hot melted fat is added to cake 
batter, it makes it coarse in grain, 
rather tough in texture, and less light 
than it would be otherwise. 

15. The object of beating egg-white 
is to entangle as much air as possible. 

16. If egg-whites are beaten too long, 
they liquify and do not hold as much air. 

H? * * A. K. 

The air towel is an ingenious device 
for drying the hands, described in 
World's Work. Five towels of this 
kind were recently installed in the 
District Building at Washington. As a 
sanitary, as well as economical method 
of drying the hands, it seems almost 
ideal. The hands so dried come in 
contact with nothing but air. The 
device is easily installed, and has the 
merit of continuous service without an 
attendant. 



The class in hygiene was taking an 
examination. "What would you do if 
the room was stuffy and hot?" was one 
of the questions. "Go outside," wrote 
one of the students. — Indianapolis News. 





fi '■' ^ 


^^ 


m 




r" ana 

\ Q/fhsivers 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit $1.00. Address queries 
to Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston CookiiNG-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 2569. — "Best recipes for Angel 
Food Cake and Devil's Food Cake with Marsh- 
mallow Filling." 

Angel Cake, Fryeburg Recipe 

Beat the whites of eight eggs until 
foamy; add half a teaspoonful of cream 
of tartar and beat until dry, then 
gradually beat in one cup and a half of 
sugar, then fold in one cup of sifted 
pastry flour. Bake in a tube pan 
about forty-five minutes. 

Devil's Food 



\ cake chocolate (4 
ounces) 

1 cup brown sugar 

2 egg-yolks 
\ cup milk 

\ cup butter 



2 egg-yolks 
\ cup milk 

1 teaspoonful soda 

2 cups flour 
2 egg-whites 

1 cup brown sugar 



Melt the chocolate in a double 
boiler; add the other ingredients in 
the brackets, and stir and cook over 
hot water until ' the mixture thickens ; 
let cool and add to the cake mixture 
just before it is set into the oven. 
Prepare the cake mixture in the usual 
manner, sifting the soda into the flour 
and then sifting with the flour. Bake 
in layers. 

Marshmallow Filling 



I lb. marshmallows 
\ teaspoonful vanilla 



I2 cups brown sugar 

\ cup butter 

\ cup boiling water 

Cook the sugar, butter and water to 
the soft-ball degree. Melt the marsh- 
mallows over boiling water; add to the 
first mixture and beat until thick 



enough to spread, then beat in the 
vanilla and use. Cover the top of 
the cake with boiled frosting made of 
three-fourths a cup of sugar, one-fourth 
a cup of boiling water and the white of 
one ^zg. 

Devil's Food No. 2 



\ cup butter 
\ cup granulated sugar 
\ cup sifted brown 
sugar 

1 ounce melted choco- 
late 

2 egg-yolks 

\ cup molasses 
\ cup cream 



^ cup milk 
2 cups flour 
\ teaspoonful soda 
\ teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 
\ teaspoonful cloves 
\ teaspoonful mace 
2 egg-whites 



Bake in a sheet and cover with marsh- 
mallow filling; or cover with a boiled 
frosting to which Vv-hen cold marsh- 
mallows cut in quarters are stirred. 

Marshmallow Frosting 

\ lb, marshmallows 
f teaspoonful vanilla 



1 cup sugar 
\ cup boihng water 

2 egg-whites 



extract 



Query No. 2570. — "Kindly give several 
menus for light inexpensive refreshments for 
evening companies in October." 

Menus For Light Refreshments, 
Evemng 

I 

Peanut Butter Sandwiches 

Olives 

Hot Cocoa Honey Cookies 

II 

Cream Cheese-and-Pimiento Sandwiches 
Drop Cookies Tea 



231 



232 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



III 

Mayonnaise of Cream Cheese and Pimientos 

in Lettuce Hearts 

Tiny Baking Powder Biscuits 

Coffee 

IV 

Oyster Rabbit on Crackers 

Olive-and-Mayonnaise Sandwiches 

Coffee 



Waldorf Salad 

(Use lemon juice on apple to avoid_^discoloring 

of apple) 

Buttered Rolls 

Hot Spiced Tea 

VI 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Assorted Nuts, Salted 

Caramels 



Query No. 2571. — "Recipe for making Vine- 
gar without fruit juice." 

Vinegar Without Fruit Juice 

We are unable to supply a recipe 
for making vinegar without fruit juice. 
Molasses and water left to ferment 
would make vinegar in time; possibly 
a little yeast would expedite the pro- 
cess. 



Query No. 2572. — "Our stores in Minne- 
sota do not carry any flour that is called pastry 
flour. They all have Gold Medal, Pillsbury's 
Best, and many others, but the dealers do not 
know that any one of them is a pastry flour. Will 
you give me the name under which a real pastry 
flour is sold." 

Name of Pastry Flour 

Pastry flour is sold under a large 
number of names, mostly of local 
origin, probably. However, we think 
the pastry flour sold under the name of 
"White-Puff" Pastry Flour is quite 
generally known, both East and West, 
and is always favorably received. 



Query No. 2573. — "Give recipe for light, 
flaky "turnovers" such as bakers sell; also 
recipes for canning chicken and making cereal 
sausage." 

Light Flaky Turnovers 

Prepare plain pastry, using half as 
much shortening as flour (by weight) : 



i. e. 1 pound flour (4 cups) to | pound 
shortening (1 cup) and a teaspoon- 
ful of baking powder. Roll the paste 
into a sheet; spread shortening, lightly, 
on half the paste, and fold the paste 
to cover the shortening: spread short- 
ening on half of this surface and fold 
the paste to cover the shortening. 
Do not use more than half a cup of 
shortening. Roll the paste into a thin 
sheet and cut into rounds five or six 
inches in diameter; put a large spoon- 
ful of thick, well-seasoned apple sauce 
on one side of each round, brush the 
edge with cold water, make a cut in 
the center of the other side, and turn 
this side over the apple, pressing it 
down upon the edge securely. Brush 
the surface of the paste with cold water, 
dredge with granulated sugar and let 
bake about eighteen minutes. 

Canning Chicken 

We have not tried to can chicken, 
but we know chicken giblets in chicken 
broth, poured scalding hot into steril- 
ized fruit jars and sealed in the usual 
manner, have been in perfect condition 
when the broth was used months later. 
We see no reason why hot, cooked 
chicken could not be canned success- 
fully in the following way: Remove 
some of the largest bones and pack 
the hot chicken into sterilized jars; 
set the jars on a rack in a canneror 
steam cooker over boiling water, and 
fill the jars to overflow with the boiling 
broth ; adjust sterilized rubber rings and 
covers, cover the cooking receptacle and 
let cook fifteen or twenty minutes, then 
tighten the covers. 

Cereal (and Nut) Sausage 



f cup hot, cooked cereal 

1 cup soft, sifted bread 
crumbs 

2 cups crushed nut 
meats 

I teaspoonful salt 



I teaspoonful pepper 

^ teaspoonful powder- 
ed thyme 

^ teaspoonful powder- 
ed sage 

1 egg, beaten light 



Cream of wheat or other cereal 
may be used; mix all the ingredients 
together thoroughly and form into 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




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Lool^ for the Grocer Who Shows this Display 

It means that he recommends Crisco for all cooking purposes — 
just as representative grocers all over the country are recom- 
mending it as a standard, high grade cooking fat. 

Make a thorough trial of Crisco now— perhaps in the White 
Cake or the Pastry shown in the picture. 

(risco 

^L. for Fny/ng -Fop Shortening 
^<m^ For Cake Making 



as wholesome, as 
at half the cost. 



^% 



You will find that Crisco makes cake as rich, 
tasty as the best of creamery butter — and 

You will find that Crisco makes pastry that is flakier, lighter 
and easier to digest than the best lard you could use — and at 
even lower cost. 

You will find that Crisco does away with all smoke and smell 
in frying. 

If you want to know more about Crisco and the conditions under which it is prepared, send 
for the "Calendar of Dinners". This cloth-bound, gold-stamped book contains, besides the 
story of Crisco, a different dinner menu for every day of the year and 615 recipes gathered 
and carefully tested by the well-known cooking authority, Marion Harris Neil. Address 
Dept. A- 10, The Procter & Gamble Co., Cincinnati, Ohio, 
enclosing fi-ue 2 -cent stamps. A paper-bound edition, with- 
out the "Calendar of Dinners" and with 250 recipes is free. 



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Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
233 



234 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



about ten shapes to resemble sausage 
links. Set them on a pan rubbed 
over with olive oil or butter and let 
bake about twenty minutes. Half a 
cup of butter or oil might replace the 
nuts, when the quantity of both cereal 
and bread crumbs should be doubled. 

Query No. 2574. — "Give me the best method 
to use in canning fruit in schools, where there 
are twenty-four pupils in the class; also best 
method of bread-making in a short time." 

Teaching Fruit-Canning 

Probably under the conditions men- 
tioned, cooking the fruit in the sauce- 
pan and then transferring it to the 
sterilized jars is the best method to use. 

Teaching Bread- Making 

Use one or two cakes of compressed 
yeast to each cup of liquid taken. — 
The operation may be further shortened 
by letting the bowl of dough stand 
in a saucepan of warm water (about 
112° F.) while rising. For full direc- 
tions of "Quick Process Bread" see 
"Principles of Food Preparation," — 
Chambers. 



Query No. 2575. — "Recipe for chili sauce 
that does not turn dark in cooking." 

Light Colored Chili Sauce 



12 large ripe tomatoes 

2 onions 

3 green peppers 

2 tablespoonfuls sugar 



2 tablespoonfuls salt 
2 cups vinegar 
1 tablespoonful cinna- 
mon 



Peel tomatoes and onions and chop, 
separately, very fine; add peppers, 
chopped, and other ingredients, except 
the spice, and cook one hour and a half. 
Add the cinnamon at the last. Spice, 
especially if cooked with the tomatoes, 
darkens the product. 



Query No. 2576. — "What herbs are classi- 
fied as sweet herbs?" 

Sweet Herbs 

At this time we are not able to say 
authoritatively just what herbs are 
classed as sweet herbs. Mention is made 



of pot herbs and aromatics. . The matter 
will be taken up later. 



Query No. 2577. — "Recipe for Imperial 
Crabmeat: The crabmeat is baked in a sauce 
(not white) with buttered crumbs." 

Imperial Crabmeat 

Try using fish (white) stock in place 
of the milk or part fish stock and part 
cream, then adding one or two egg- 
yolks and finishing with buttered cracker 
crumbs. 



Query No. 2578. — "Recipe for real Japan- 
ese rice cakes, very thin and crisp and baked 
on wafer irons." 

Japanese Rice Cakes 

We are unable to supply this recipe. 



Query No. 2579. — "Where should cocktail 
fork be set in laying the table? Which is 
preferable for fruit-cocktail, a small spoon or 
fork?" 

Place of Cocktail Fork at 
Table 

The cocktail fork — often oyster fork 
— is laid at the right of the soup spoon, 
often across the soup spoon at the right 
hand side of the plate. A spoon is 
preferable to a fork for fruit cocktail. 

Query No. 2580. "Kindly pubHsh recipes 
for Corn Pudding and Chicken Mousse made of 
uncooked pounded chicken." 

Corn Pudding 



1^ tablespoonfuls 

cornmeal 
J cup cold milk 
1 cup scalded milk 
I teaspoonful salt 



^ teaspoonful pepper 
1 tablespoonful butter 
1 cup com pulp 
1 egg, well beaten 



Stir the cornmeal with the cold milk, 
then stir and cook in the hot milk until 
the mixture thickens; add the other 
ingredients and turn into a baking dish, 
suitable for the table. Set on folds of 
paper in a second dish, surround with 
boiling water and let cook until the 
center is firm. 

Corn Pudding 



1 cup com pulp 
1 egg, beaten light 
I cup cracker crumbs 



1 cup sugar 

i teaspoonful salt 

2 cups milk 



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17 • V V tr 




Easily RGtnovGs 
Fruit- Coffee^^ne^ar 
and OtKer Stains 
From Such TKings As 
Oil-ClotK Tatle-Tops 




Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
235 



236 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Mix all the ingredients and bake as 
above. 

Corn Custard, Mexican Style 



4 eggs, beaten light 
1 ^ cup corn pulp 
I teaspoonful salt 
^ teaspoonful paprika 



2 tablespoonfuls green 
pepper, chopped fine 

^ clove of garhc, 
chopped fine 

1| cups milk 



Mix all the ingredients together, in 
the order enumerated and bake as all 
custard mixtures. See recipes above. 
Serve from the baking dish. 

Chicken Mousse 



1 cup of scraped-and- 
pounded breast of 
chicken 

2 egg-whites, un- 
beaten 

I cup cold white or 
Bechamel sauce 



2 egg-whites, beaten 

dry 
^ teaspoonful salt 

^ teaspoonful paprika 
1 cup cream, beaten 
light 



The cup of chicken should be a 
generous one and it should have been 
pounded in a wooden bowl until smooth ; 
beat in the unbeaten whites of eggs, one 
at a time ; do not add the second egg 
until the first has been beaten in 
smoothly; then beat in the cold sauce 
and press the mixture through a sieve 
or a gravy strainer. Set the strainer 
in part of a double boiler into which it 
fits, then use a pestle and the work is 
quickly done. To the sifted mixture 
add the salt and pepper, then fold in the 
beaten eggs and cream thoroughly. 
Turn into a well-buttered mold or 
molds, set the molds on many folds of 
paper in a dish of suitable size, and 
surround with boiling water; let cook 
with water just below the boiling point, 
until the center is firm. Unmold to 
serve with Bechamel or a white or 
yellow mushroom sauce. 



Query No. 2581 — "Recipe for Philadelphia 
Relish." 

Philadelphia Relish 



1 pint cabbage, 

chopped fine 
1 red pepper chopped 

fine 
1 green pepper, 

chopped fine 
h teaspoonful salt 



I cup brown sugar 
^ teaspoonful white 

mustard seed 
J teaspoonful celery 

seed 
J cup vinegar 



The cabbage and peppers are to be 
chopped exceedingly fine then mix all the 
ingredients together. 



Practical Piety 

The vicar's family had just seated 
themselves at the breakfast table, says 
Lippincotf s Magazine, when the strains 
of "Rock of Ages" sounded through the 
house. The bishop, who was present, 
remarked how sweet the hymn^sounded. 

Then said the vicar's last-born, "That 
was the cook." 

The bishop expressed pleasure at the 
cook's piety. 

"She always sings 'Rock of Ages' to 
boil the eggs," said the child; "three 
verses for soft boiled, five for hard." 



Easily Proved to be an American 

Not every American under suspicion 
abroad may get off so easily a^did Col. 
Alexander Gardner who, duii» a stay 
in Asia, was once suspected ot being a 
Russian spy. The Congregationalist tells 
his story : 

Application was made to the Khan of 
Khiva, who deputed three learned men 
to examine him. This was the abstruse 
examination with which they were 
satisfied: "What are you?" asked they. 
"An American," was the answer. Then 
one man, a scholar, offered as a test this 
deep and conclusive geographical ques- 
tion, "Could you go by land from Amer- 
ica to England?" "No," was the prompt 
reply; and the questioner, as much 
delighted at his own superior learning 
as at the traveler's integrity, declared 
that he was convinced. This was an 
American indeed. 



Your attention is called to the adver- 
tisement of the Sawyer Crystal Blue Co. 
on the cover of this magazine. This firm 
is making a very attractive offer of evapo- 
rated cranberries by parcel post. Drop 
a postal to them at 88 Broad Street, 
Boston and have them send you the 
particulars of their offer. — Adv. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 






Only the best and purest malt 
vinegar-made in our own brewer 
ies, on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England -is used. 

It takes over two years of careful preparation 
and ageing lo produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 

A good wine cannot be made in a day — neither 
was Holbrook's Sauce 




''It is better to use no 
sauce at all than a sauce 
that is not Holbrook's." 




HOLBROOirS 



QRGES^RSHIRE 

SAUCE 



ADDRESS 
ORDERS 

TO 




DWMa 

WRidr 

COMM 

BOSTON 
CHICAGO 



WHITE HOUSE 
C(ffi:FEE 




HAPPY 
DAYS 



OR 

PHONE 




YOUR 

GROCER 
YOU mi 

NEVER 
REGRET IT 



A World-Wide CampaiQii for a Better Cup of Coffee ^ 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
237 



]E 









^^^ool^ 



Is^iSg^SS 



g[SgtgS!Sg:sl! 



A Guide To Laundry-Work. By Mary 
D. Chambers, B.S., A.M. ' Cloth; 
Price .75 net; The Boston Cooking 
School Magazine Company, Boston, 
Mass. 
This is a manual for both home and 
school, prepared by a teacher of wide 
experience and authority. The text is 
simple and plain, yet sufficiently com- 
plete to serve as guide to efficiency in 
all grades of laundry work. We feel 
certain the book will prove to be the 
most attractive and desirable Laundry 
Manual on the Market. The author is 
of the opinion that laundry work is an 
excellent form of manual training for 
girls, "that even the rougher cleansing 
processes, restoring soiled linen to its 
original freshness and purity," may be 
made truly educative in fostering a love 
of dainty and perfect cleanliness — that 
outward sign of the inward grace of 
true refinement which forever distin- 
guishes the gentlewoman. 

Canning, Preserving & Jelly Making. 
By Janet M. Hill. Illustrated, 200 
pages, $1.00 net; Little, Brown & 
Company, Boston, Mass. 
The preface given here will suggest 
the object and scope of the Book: — 
Every suburban and country house- 
hold should plant and nurture a garden 
and raise small fruits; then during the 
summer from the products of this 
effort the bulk of the food for the family 
should be provided and all surplus 
should be carefully preserved for future 
use. The economic conditions of the 
age demand this. 

Modem methods of canning and jelly 



making have simplified and shortened 
preserving processes. This is one of 
the many debts the housekeepers of 
to-day owe to the United States Depart- 
ment of Agriculture, the State univer- 
sities and cooking experts. 

In this book the latest ideas in can- 
ning, preserving, and jelly making are 
presented, and it is submitted to house- 
keepers everywhere with the hope that 
they will find it a thoroughly reliable 
and trustworthy guide to successful 
methods of utilizing fruits and veget- 
ables that would otherwise go to waste. 

Baking Powder. By Thomas G. Atkin- 
son, B. S.; The Commonwealth 
Press, Chicago, 111. 
This is an excellent Domestic Science 
text-book. It is a readable book, a 
truthful book, and a seasonable book. 
It contains just the facts that should be 
read and known by all housewives about 
baking powder, as a healthful, con- 
venient leavening agent. As a domestic 
science text-book it deserves to find a 
place in every school in the land. The 
book provides, in brief, much needed 
information on a very important 
subject. 

The Something- Different Dish. By 

Marion Harris Neil. Price 50 cents. 

David McKay, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Here are one hundred recipes for 

making dishes that are different. The 

illustrations and one-half of the recipes 

have appeared in the Cooking column 

of the Ladies' Home Journal. Soup, 

Fish, Meat, Chicken, Puddings, Cakes, 

etc. all are included. The motto on 



238 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Add no 
milk 



Use-^water and^et BcTOr-p^cakes 




Tasty, Economical, Wholesome 



Malted Buttermilk in powder form is added to 
Teco flour at the mill. It takes the place of 
milk, and is an exclusive feature that gives Teco 
Pancakes their decidedly distinctive flavor. 
Not a d.op of milk is added to make the deli- 



cious Teco Pancakes. Don't spend a cent for 
milk — and yet have unusually good pancakes. 
You just add zvater to Teco buttermilk griddle 
cake flours — then bake. Have 6 pancakes for a 
cent — 60 from a package. 



TECO 



Self -Rising 



Pancake and 
Buckwheat 



Flours 



Meets the Government's, Dr. Wiley's, 
and the Westfield Pure Food Standards 



Some folks say they are "crazy " about pancakes, 
but often have trouble in getting good ones. 
But, once they try the Teco kind — how they 
like 'em! Teco cakes are so delicious, and 
tender, and enticingly brown! They fairly melt 
away — they're bringing back the popularity pan- 
cakes had in grandma's day. 
When she churned, the buttermilk was saved and 
added to her flour, to make pancakes. Those 
were the kind! — nobody ever got enough. And 
those are the kind you can make today with 
Teco buttermilk griddle cake flours. 
Just get a plateful before you — put some lumps 
of butter on each hot, brown cake — then smother 
the pile with good rich syrup. No wonder the 
10c per kiddies are happy, and father smiles 
package contentedly, when mother gives them 
Teco pancakes! Send for a package 

i^ u~lU-,.<-k" 



today — see how your family likes these 
cakes! 



It's not ordinary milk in 
Teco Flours — but good, 
rich buttermilk. Leading 
authorities recognize the 
healthful qualities of 
buttermilk and recom- 
mend its use. Its addi- 
tion to Teco flour adds 
to the wholesomeness of 
these light, dainty 
cakes, as well as to their 
flavor. 

The children, and the 
grown-ups too, can 
enjoy Teco cakes freely. 




Get Your Package and Recipe Book Today 

If your grocer does not sell Teco Pancake Flour send lo cents 
for full-size package; include your grocer's name, and we'll send 
you our Teco recipe book /rec. This i6-page book contains ^ 

recipes by Mrs. Ida C. Bailey Allen for fine biscuits, cheese ^ 

straws, rissoles, prune bread, tarts, etc. Send for .your ^ 

first package now — your grocer will then supply you ^ 

with all you want. -^ 



THE EKENBERG COMPANY 

100 Lehiih Ayenae, Cortland, New York 



^^ 





TEAR OFF HEREI 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
239 



240 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



cover page will suffice to suggest or 
describe the contents, "Odd in name, 
but good to try, when you want to 
have a change." 

Table Service. By Lucy G. Allen. 
Cloth, 111. $1.00. Little, Brown 
and Company, Boston, Mass. 
This work grew out of years of 
practical teaching in a school of cookery. 
It may be regarded as one of the most 
complete and serviceable books on the 
subject. It is equally well adapted for 
use in the school or the home, for it con- 
tains the information so many wish to 
know, "who are striving for the beauty 
of a well-ordered house and of gracious 
service." 



Our Glorious Heritage 

The following is from "Lieber's Ser- 
vice to Political Science and Inter- 
national Law : 

Representative government and self 
government are the great works of the 
English and American peoples. The 
English have produced representative 
monarchy with parliamentary legis- 
lation and parliamentary government. 
The Americans have produced the rep- 
resentative republic. We Europeans 
upon the Continent recognize in our turn 
that in representative government alone 
lies the hoped-for union between civil 
order and popular liberty. 



Half Truth— Whole Truth 

The late Thomas B. Reed of Maine, 
sometime speaker of the U. S. House of 
Representatives, was a genius in the use 
of original epigrams, brilliant, forceful, 
and many of them at the same time 
expressions of profound wisdom. On 
one occasion, commenting on the gener- 
ally prevailing notion that truth is 
simple, he said; " "The half truth is 
simple; the whole truth is the most 
complex thing on earth." 

Every man who expresses what he 
honestly thinks is true is changing the 



spirit of the times. Thinkers help other 
people to think, for they formulate what 
others are thinking. No person writes 
or thinks alone — thought is in the air, 
but its expression is necessary to create 
a tangible spirit of the times. The 
value of a thinker who writes, or a 
writer who thinks, is that he supplies 
arguments for the people and confirms 
all who are on his wire in opinions often 
before uttered. 

All literature is advertising. And all 
genuine advertisements are literature. 
The author advertises men, times, 
places, deeds, events and things. His 
appeal is to the universal human soul. 
If he does not know the heart-throbs 
of men and women, their hopes, joys, 
ambitions, tastes, needs and desires, 
his work will interest no one but himself 
and his admiring friends. 

— William Marion Reedy. 

London Punch has an eye out for 
bright maids. A recent discovery is 
thus revealed : 

Mistress — Why have you put two 
hot-water bottles in my bed? 

Bridget — Sure, mum, wan of thim was 
leakin', and I didn't know which, so I 
put both in to make sure. 



^'Sometimes," confided Mrs. Longwed 
to her intimate friend, "I think my hus- 
band is the patientest, gentlest, best- 
natured soul that ever lived, and some- 
times I think it's mere laziness." 



-Fall House Cleaning- 



Fevers and sickness frequently follow 
the house opening, due to germs that 
have developed during the summer. 

Prevent this, by thoroughly cleansing and dis- 
infecting with 

Platts Chlorides . 

The Odorless Disinfectant 

Two Sizes : 25 and 50 cents 
Sample and Booklet, "The Sanitary Home," FREE 
HENRY B. PLATT, 42 Cliff St., NewYork 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Bak 



e m Glass ! 




Wyy^^'Py^ Glass Dishes 



for Baking 

("FIRE ~ GLASS ") ^-^ 

The newest, cleanest, quickest, cheapest, best metl^od 



Trade Mark Registered 



The alert and capable housewife will greet the picture of 
the dishes shown above with a genuine little "thrill" of sur- 
prise and pleasure. 

Away with the pots and the pans, the scouring and the 
scrubbing, the fruitless and endless efforts to clean things 
which "simply never rvill be clean!" Away with the te- 
dious, slow baking in utensils which are an abomination 
lo the eye and a sore trial to the temper! 

Pyrex is a new-process glass that with- ________^___ 

stands the heat of the hottest oven. It is 
transparent, strong, will not chip or craze, 
will stand up under constant long use — 
thoroughly practical, effective and economical 
tor baking utensils. 

With Pyrex you bake fa?ter and better ; 
these glass dishes cook at a higher tempera- 
ture than earthenware or metal. 



Mrs. Rorer uses 
PYREX 
exclusively 



You bake an J serve in the same dish. You use fewer 
dishes. You clean Pyrex dishes with the utmost ease — 
polish them to a brilliant sheen. You save work, time, fuel 
(money), pantry space. 

Every woman with the interests of her home at heart 
should give Pyrex a trial. Booklet on request showing 
the wide range of dishes that may be baked and served in 
Pyrex. 

2 qt. Baking Dish (Casserole) and Cover 
I qt. Baking Dish (Casserole) and Cover 
1 pt. Baking Dish (Casserole) and Cover 

Bread Pan (8y2x4y2 ins) 

Pie Plate 81/2 ins $0.75 ; 8 ins . 

Shirred Egg Dish 7 ins . . . .65 ; 5 V2 ins 
Oval "Au Gratin" Dish (6x8 ins) . , 
Oval Individual Baker (4x6 ins) ... 
Custard Cup 3 V2 ins 20 ; 3 ins 



$1.75 
1.20 
.85 
.75 
.65 
.45 
.70 
.35 
.15 



Ask your department, china or hardware store to get these Pyrex Glass Dishes 
for you — or write to any of the following stores and they will supply you: 



Hochschild Kohn & Co., Baltimore Denver Dry Goods Co., Denver Gimbel Bros., New York City 



Jordan Marsh & Co., Boston 
Fred'k Loeser & Co., Brooklyn 
Wm. Hengerer Co., Buffalo 
Marshall Field & Co., Chicago 
John Shillito Company, Cincinnati 
The May Company, Cleveland 



J. L. Hudson & Co., Detroit Orchard & Wilhelm Co., Omaha 

L. S. Ayres & Co., Indianapolis Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia 
Emery Bird Thayer, Kansas City Kaufmann Store, Pittsburg 
Bullock's, Los Angeles Meier Frank & Co., Portland, Ore. 

Gimbel Bros., Milwaukee Miller & Rhoades, Richmond, Va. 

Bamberger's, Newark, N. J. Sibley, Lindsay & Curr, Rochester 



Famous & Barr Co.. St. Louis 

Keith-O'Brien & Co.. SaltLakeCity 

Nathan-Dohrmann Co., San Francisco 

Frederick & Nelson, Seattle 

Spokane Dry Goods Co., Spokane 

Dey Bros., Syracute 

Woodward & Lathrop, Washington, D.C 



CORNING GLASS WORKS. EST. 1868 CORNING, N.Y.. U.S. A. 

Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
241 



The Silver Lining 



The Girl Across the Aisle 

Because the girl across the aisle, 
Just glanced at him with half a smile, 
Then straightened up her silly hat. 
And gave her bordered veil a pat. 
He suddenly knew he was worth while. 
And why? The girl across the aisle. 

You see poor Jones had lost his wife. 
The bottom dropped from out his life. 
He left his club, forgot his friends. 
And things were going at loose ends. 
What mattered that he'd made his pile? 
But, oh, the girl across the aisle. 

Take Jones' lesson to your heart, 
If you're inclined to feel apart, 
A trifle grey, a trifle stout; 
Don't think it's late to join the rout, 
While yet there is a girl to smile, 
And look alert across the aisle. 

Helen Forrest. 



"It must have been terrible for you to 
have your son in jail for joy-riding," con- 
soled the kind friend. "Yes, indeed," 
sighed the mother; "but, then, it was 
such a comfort to know where he was 
nights." — Life. 

"Madame," shouted the angry neigh- 
bor, "your little Cosmo has just thrown 
a brick through our window!" "And 
would you bring me the brick?" beamed 



Cosmo's mother. "We are keeping all 
the little mementos of his youthful 
pranks." 

A fond mother, hearing that an earth- 
quake was expected, sent her boys to a 
friend in the country to be out of the way 
of it. In a few days she got a note from 
the friend: "Please take your boys home 
and send along the earthquake!" — The 
Woman's Journal. 

A clever old lady, who went into 
society in the days when conversation 
was more important than cooking, asked 
a niece on her return from a recent 
function, if it had been enjoyable. 
"Very," replied the niece. "The menu 
was great!" "My dear," said the old 
lady, severely, "it isn't the menu that 
makes a good dinner: it is the menu sit 
next to." 

A political candidate for an agricul- 
tural district, after making a speech, 
announced that he would be glad to 
answer any questions that might be put 
to him. A voice came from the 
audience. "You seem to know a lot, 
sir, about a farmer's difficulties. May 
I ask a question about a momentous 
one?" "Certainly," repHed the can- 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii mill mill miiimiimimimm iiimiiii i iiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiiiiiiiiiiiiimiiimimimimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii iiiii in iiimi iiiiiiiiiiiiii 

Distinctive little people wear 




i C^ 



It's easy to pick out Velvet Grip children 




HOSE SUPPORTERS 

Their hosiery is kept neat and 
trim all day. They may run or 
play freely without frequent tug- 
ging at loose or falling stockings. 

The only hose supporter with the 
Oblong Rubber Button 

which prevents drop stitches. 
Sample pair of Pin-ons for Children 16c. 
postpaid fgive age). Sample set of four 
Sew-ons for Women 50c. postpaid. 
GEORGE FROST CO., Makera, BOSTON 




aiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiuiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiniiiuiiin 

Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
242 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



.C\RNATION 
MILK 



■yi4tfL 




CAR-NATICm 
MILK. W 







jf3ws*': 



>^^/ Carnation Milk 

It is always clean, sweet, pure. It is hermetically sealed and steril- 
ized — it is always safe. 

It is convenient. Keep as many cans as you like in your pantry 
— open as needed. This means economy — no daily waste as with 
ordinary milk. 

It is just fresh, sweet, cows' milk brought to the consistency of 
cream by evaporation. Nothing is added; nothing is taken out 
but part of the water. 

It adds a delicious flavor to everything cooked with it — vegetables, pastry, etc. You 
can whip it, make ice cream, candies, salad dressing, etc. Serve it on the table 

for coffee, cereals, fruit. 

Order it of your grocer; he is the Carnation Milk- 
man. Use the coupon below to secure our prac- 
tical, new cook book — a genuine help. 




Pacific Coast Condensed Milk Co. 

234 Stuart Bldg., SEATTLE, WASH., U. S. A. 

r Please send me your new cook book, filled with 
special evaporated milk recipes and containing "The 
Story of Carnation Milk," as it is demonstrated at 
the San Francisco Exposition. 



Name. 



Addi 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
243 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




A Delightful Cake 

You can give your family a 
very pleasing variety by fla- 
voring cakes and desserts 
with 




^^HQNilXTRAeii 



ALSO 

Vanilla 
Lemon 
Orange 
Fresn 
FruW 
Extracts 
ete. 



Burnett's is real almond 
— made from the finest 
Smyrna Almonds only 
— not from peach and 
apricot stones, which the 
Pure Food Law allows 
to be labeled "almond." 

INDIA CAKE 

Cream % cup butter and 2 cups sugar. Add 3 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately and then 
together. Add 2 cups flour, I teaspoonful soda 
and 2 of cream of tartar. Add 1 cup milk and I 
scant teaspoonful of Burnett's Almond. Bake in 
a slow oven, and frost. 

Burnett's is Economical 

Owing to its purity and strength, one 2 oz. 
bottle of Burnett's Almond gives more 
flavor than 5 ordinary lUc bottles of infe- 
rior or imitation extracts. All Burnett's 
Extracts are of the same high quality you 
associate with Burnett's Vanilla. 

Wriie for our new booklet of 1 15 dainty desserts. 
Sent free if you mention your grocer's name. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 



Dept. K 



36 India St., Boston, Mass. 



1 



didate nervously. "How can you tell 
a bad egg?" went on the merciless 
voice. The candidate waited until the 
laughter died away. Then he replied, 
"If I had anything to tell a bad egg, I 
think I should break it gently." 



Dorothy was so homesick at her first 
party that the hostess's mother sug- 
gested that it would be better for her to 
go home. Dorothy gladly accepted the 
idea, but a few minutes later, answering 
a timid knock at the door, the hostess's 
mother found Dorothy bathed in tears. 

"Well, Dorothy, I am glad to see you 
again. Did you decide to come back?" 

"No m'm, I f-f -forgot t-to say I 
ha-had such a nice time!" 

"I must say these are fine biscuits!" 
exclaimed the young husband. "How 
could you say those are fine biscuits?" 
inquired the young wife's mother, in a 
private interview. "I didn't say they 
were fine. I merely said I must say so." 
— Washington Star. 



How It Was 



"Your wife used to like to sing, and 
she played the piano a lot. Now we 
don't hear her at all. How's that?" 

"She hasn't the time. We have two 
children." 

"Well, well! Children certainly are 
a blessing!" 



Viewpoint 

"Oh Lawd!" ses I, "I's a mighty sinner," 

I was in church, 'twas after dinner, 

'Nd I was so sorter satisfied, 

I hadn't a single thing to hide. 

'Nd so I reeled my errors off, 

Expectin' of course my friends would scoff, 

Fer I just claimed to be the prize, 

Big reprobate beneath the skies; 

(Poetic license, 'twas I meant), but then, 

Someone let out a loud, "Amen!" 

This mal apropos, rankled, still. 

Of talkin' I'd not had my fill, 

So I went on to 'numerate, 

The things agin' me on the slate: 



Buy advertised Goods — do not accept substitutes 
244 



ADVERTISEMENTS 





One quality 

— many styles and sizes. 

— loith or without legs. 
Right or left Reservoir. 



A Majestic Range in your 
kitchen will encourage your 
daughter's best efforts in 
learning to cook, by giving 
her the best possible results. 
Her baking will bring no 
failures, no discouragements 
due to the range — she'll 
know that what she makes 
right wiil be baked right, by 
the Majestic. It will 



Help your daugHter be a good cooK 



Awarded 

GOLD MEDAL" 

Highest Award 
Panama Pacific Exp. 

San Francisco 



Majestic construction maintains a perfect baking heat and circulates 

it to all parts of oven. Its heavy asbestos lining reflects the heit to all 

surfaces of the baking — top, sides and bottom are baked perfectly 

without turning. 

Tlie Majestic saves fuel, because it is made practically airtight by 

cold riveting no bolts or clamps ; heat can't escape; less fuel 

required. 

Tlie Majes'ic is made of non-breakable, malleable iron, and charcoal 

iron, which resists rust three times as long as steel. 

Majestic Manvifact\iring Co., 



The Majestic saves so much in avoiding food waste and repairs and 
lasts so many years longer than the ordinary range that the little extra 
it costs will prove a wise investment. 

There is a Majestic dealer in nearly every county of 42 States, if 
you don't know one, write us. 

"Write for FREE BooK 

that tells what to look for when buying a range. It contains valuable 
information that will enable you to conectly judge a range. 

Dept. 234, St. Loviis, Mo. 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiij!!!;; 



LEARN TO COOK 
WITH A THERMOMETER 



The importance of having proper tem- 
peratures in cooking, from an Economi- 
cal and Efficiency standpoint, is being 
recognized more and more by Cooking 
Authorities and Domestic Science 
Teachers. 

Modern cookbooks give exact 
degrees of temperature in num- 
erous recipes, eliminating all 
guess work and the consequent 
waste of material, time and 



fuel. 



"WILDER" 



II*. 974 



Accurate Thermonieters 

For Candies and Boiled Frostingt 
use No. 692 $1.00 

For Determining the Temperature 
of yoar Fireless Cooker Radia- 
tors ose No. 980 . . . .85 

For Regulating the Temperature 
of the Oren use No. 974 . 1 .00 

^^ If your dealer will not supply you with a 
M^ilder." we will do so direct on receipt 
of the price and the dealer's name. 

Write for further information No. 980 M 

CHARLES WILDER CO. | 

508 Fulton Street TROY, N. Y. 1 

lllllllllilllliilllllllililllilllllilllllllllilllli 




Valuable food with a food 
value. Nesnah contains no 
cornstarch or gelatine. 

Nesnah Chocolate Pudding 

Stir for one half minute one ten cent 
package of Chocolate Nesnah into one quart 
luke warm milk, pour immediately into indi- 
vidual glass cups and when set place in re- 
frigerator to chill. 

Send now for free sample 
and our Booklet of Recipes 

SIX FLAVORS 

Vanilla Chocolate Raspberry 

Almond Orange Lemon 



CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY 

Inc. 
Box 2507. Uttle Falls, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
245 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




New dishes are easy to prepare with KomleL 
Besides wonderful soup, with Kornlet you can make 
temptinff fritters, muffins, patties, pudding, and 
many other appetizing dishes. Our recipe book con- 
tains 89 different ways of serving Kornlet. We pay $1 
for every 7iew accepted recipe. 

Better than canned com 

Kornlet isn't canned com. It is far more delicious. Korn- 
let is the nourishing: essence of young-, tender, grreen, sweet 
in» com extracted when the com is richest in milk. 
%—' -' r^ All the flavor is retained. You will enjoy 

Kornlet immensely. 

At grocers 



Kornlet 

Recipe 

Book 



This book free 



— 25 cents a can 



If your grocer, or one nearby, cannot supply 
^^^ you with Kornlet, we will send 
'" acan, postpaid, for 25c in stamps. 

Postal brings recipe book 

giving: 8q splendid recipes for new dishes that 
you can prepare easily. Mail a 
postal now. 

The Haserot Canneries Co. 

Dept. 2 Huron Road, 

Cleveland, Ohio 



Sent 
by 

parcel 
post 




Don't use Bread Flour for Pastry Baking— 
if you want GOOD pastry, cake or biscuit. 

You can save more than the dlflference in cost on 
the Shortening saved when you use 



THEIDEALi 

FLOUa 

FOR 
BISCUIT CAKE p^^ PASTRY 

Shortening is more costly than flour. You 
save one half your shortening with "White 
Puff" and you get lighter, less greasy, 
better-tasting food. 

WM. S. HILLS CO.. Boston. 

Have used your "White Puff Flour" for some 
time, and want to say that, without exception, it 
has been the best pastry flour I have ever used. 
Respectfully, 
(Signed) Mrs. Isabel R. Liknell. 
Clay St.. Wollaston, Mass. 

Ask your grocer for White Puff Flour or write to 
WM. S. HILLS COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 



I hadn't lived as I'd orter lived, 

I hadn't gived as I'd orter gived, 

I'd omitted this, and committed that, 

(My soul here giv' an appro vin' pat). 

"I'm a nawful sinner," I cried, and then, 

A fervent chorus called, "Amen!" 

Still I went on confessin' things, 

My sins had sorter sprouted wings, 

'Nd they flew up, like they felt proud, 

To be let loose before the crowd. 

"I'm a powerful sinner," agin' ses I, 

'Nd powerful sinners steal and lie, 

They skinch their neighbors, 'nd mebbe pinch, 

Their fellowmen; 'nd here's the cinch, 

The biggest sinners be outen the pen," 

The entire crowd bawled out, "Amen!" 

"Now Lawd!" ses I, "I've sed my prair, 
" 'Nd mebbe it hain't hardly fair, 
That I should use the pronoun, 'I,' 
When for all men is Thy supply: 
Translate the 'I' then, into 'us,' 
Accept the above, then with this plus, 
We're all depraved, we're lost in sin, 
Hain't a mean thing that WE'RE not in! 
Thou seest us all, iniquitous men," 
My voice alone, called out "Amen!" 

Rose Seelye- Miller. 



Dry Cleansing at Home 

There is every bit as good a reason for 
a woman to have all her dry cleaning 
work done at home as there is for wash- 
ing and laundering. No mystery or 
difficulty is attached to the process. 
Dry cleaning merely consists of using 
gasoline in place of water and a prep- 
aration Jin place of soap. The opera- 
tion is perfectly simple. 

To introduce the practice as a regular 
part of household management is a 
piece of sound common sense. Not 
only will every woman be able to save 
the expense of the professional dry 
cleaner's bill but the time lost in send- 
ing goods away from home can be saved 
also. Then in addition it allows her 
to supervise the cleaning or to herself 
clean any delicate fabric that requires 
special attention, which also does away 
with the necessity of parting with an 
article of lace* or embroidery that may 
be>- exceptionally valuable or highly 
prized. 



Buy advertised Goods— Do not accept^substitutes 
246 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



T&Wl 





One Little Motion: push that 
cool knob to "Kindle", "Bake" or "Check" 
— the range does the rest. It*s the Single 
Damper Control, and it's a marvel. 

And that Wonderful Oven, with its perfect, 
even heat and perfect baking — thanks 
to the Single Damper Control and the 

curved cup-joint Heat Flue. 

Then there's the Ash Hod — deep, easy to re- 
move, doesn't spill — and Coal Hod beside it. 

Gas ovens attached if desired. 
Ask the Crawford Agent to show you and write 
us for illustrated circulars. 

WALKER 4 PRATT MFG. CO., Makers 

31-35 Union Street, Boston 




iZ37\ 



armaj 

ar ana Cover 

East of Missouri River, 
$1.00 each, delivered. 
West of Missouri River, 
Canada and Maine, 
$1.25 each, delivered. 

Write for iUustrated booklet 

A. H. Heisey & Co. 

Dept 56 Newark, Ohio 



HEI5EY'5i 



TRADE 



MARK 



GLA55WAREI 



i^x^>^j>^ 




Measured 
for You 

This is a " Minute Fruit Des- 
sert"— more luscious than any 
fruit ice cream or mousse you ever tasted. 
All Minute Gelatine dishes are easy to 
make because the gelatine is measured in exact 
quantities for use and dissolves Immediately with- 
out previous soakmg. Four envelopes to each box. 
Each envelope makes a pint of 
gelatine. The only gelatine 
vi^hich is packed in this way. 

The above dessert and many other novel 
and delicious dishes are described in the 

New Mmute Cook Book Sent Free 

on receipt of your name and your grocer's. 
With it we send a generous sample of 
Minute Gelatine. 

MINUTE TAPIOCA CO. 
509 E. Main St. Orange, Mats. 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
247 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



lie Qts.= lPk^e.| 




Economy 



is an essential requirement these days of 
increasing costs. What we eat occupies so 
important a place in the expense account 
that one naturally begins here to attempt 
saving. 

High Living at Low Cost 

is intere^ing to everybody. But while the 
subjedt is being agitated food co^s in- 
crease. To the thrifty housewife let us 
suggest relief. Buy such food articles as 
have not raised their cost to you. Use the 
well and favorably known 

Sea MossFarine 

This is a Pure Food produdt of high 
grade but low price. Is so concentrated 
you need but a spoonful to make dessert 
for a family. A regular 25c. packet of Sea 
Moss Farine is ismall in size because great- 
ly condensed. Yet each contains enough 
to make 16 quarts ta^ desserts of many 
kinds or 40 quarts fine ice cream. Did you 
ever know of any other article which could 
yield such results ? 

Live Like a Queen at Little Cost 

by daily serving Sea Moss Farine in some 
of its numerous forms. 

Sold by Grocers or Mailed h^ us. 
^rice 25 cents postpaid. 

Send for FREE Sample and Recipes. 

LYON MFG. CO.. 38 So. 5th St.. BROOKLYN. N.Y> 



Work of the Witches 

(Concluded from page 205) 

She had reached the door when the 
tall young man in bedraggled white 
drew her back again into the shadows. 
"See here," he questioned anxiously, 
"you do believe that I've been loving 
you all the time and not just because 
I accidently caught this glimpse of the 
real, behind-the-scene girl, don't you, 
darling?" 

"Of course, silly." She lifted a ten- 
der, timid hand to touch his cheek. 

"Just the same," he whispered, "it 
makes a fellow mighty happy to know 
his girl is such a bully little cook as 
you are!" 



He serves the world best who sells it 
what it needs most. Modern commerce 
is modern service. And advertising is 
the means by which those who serve are 
brought in contact with those who need 
to be served. — Glen Buck. 



Walter Baker & Co. Ltd. Receives 
Still Another Grand Prize 

The Grand Prize for superiority of 
Cocoa and Chocolate preparations has 
been awarded to Walter Baker & Co. 
Ltd., Dorchester, Mass., at the Panama- 
California Exposition at San Diego. 
Only a few weeks ago this Company was 
awarded the Grand Prize at the Panama- 
Pacific Exposition at San Francisco. 



Triplicate Saucepan 




Aluminum, detachable 
handle. Cooks three 
things at once, on one 
cover. Convenient and 
a fuel saver. 



Sent, prepaid, for five (5) new subscriptions to 
American Cookery. Cash price, $3.00 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. 

Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised^Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
248 



ADVERTISEiMENTS 



$200^0 IN PRIZES 

One hundred and two prizes will be given for 
the best recipes in which the well-known coloring 
and flavoring extract. Kitchen Bouquet, could be 
used in preparing soups, fish, meats, gravies, sauces, 
etc. It is not a condition that Kitchen Bouquet be 
added to your recipe, merely a suggestion. We 
want recipes for delicious dishes which can be 
easily prepared along these lines. 

The contest is open to everyone. All recipes 
must be in our hands on or before December 1. 1915. 
The judges will be Eleonora L. 3Iunroe. Cooking 
Editor of Pictorial Review. Tda Cogswell Bailey- 
Allen. Cooking Editor of Good Housekeeping. W. G. 
Lentz, President of the Palisade Mfg. Co. 

The prizes are : 

1 prize of - • - - $25.00 

2 prizes of - - - - 10.00 
8 prizes of - - - - 5.00 

16 prizes of - - - - 2:50 

75 prizes of - - - - 1.00 

Every condition of the contest is given in 
this notice. We cannot answer any questions. 



i/titcken^^iqudm 



(Res:. U. S Pat Off.) 

A FREE sample bottle sent on request 

THE PALISADE MFG. CO., 3-3 Clinton Ave.,W. Hoboken, N.J. 



Domestic Science 

Home-St\idy Coiarses 

*'ood, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. 
For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
'THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
)age handbook, FREE. Bulletins : " Free Hand 
:ooKiNG," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents 
'The Up-to-Date Home," 15 cents. 

iM. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69ih Si.. CHICAGO 



This Sturdy Boy 
was one of 

BORDEN'S 

BETTER 

BABIES 

Until Roderick was three 
months old, nothing agreed 
with him. Then his mother 
put him on " Eagle Brand " 
and he began to gain at 
once. You can see 
what a splendid child 
he is at the age of 
three years — a big, 





f^ _ BRAND __r-k 

Condensed 



THE O RI GINAL 




Milk. 

Even the frailest 
baby can easily di- 
gest "Eagle Brand." 
Always pure — always 
safe — always ready. 
Iso trouble to prepare. 

Grand Prize (Highest Awardi and Cold Medal 

awarded at Panama-Pacific International Expositioa 
at San Francisco, on Bordens Milk Products. 
Send Coupon 

for." Baby's Borden's Condensed Milk Company 

'■'^Leaders of Quality:'' £st. 1857. 

i Borden's Condensed Milk Co., 

; 108 Hudson Street, New York City. 

I Please send me your helpful book. 

i "Baby's Welfare," which tells me how to 

i safeguard my baby and make him plump 

j and rosy. Also send "Baby's Biography.'' 



j Kame... 

Address. 



The quick method of making bread 
through the use of 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

is the easiest way and gives best 
results. Write for our new recipe 
book that tells just how to do it. 



The Fleischmann Company 

701 Washington Street New York City 




No. 10 



A New Knife for Grape Fruit 



THE EMPIRE DOUBLE EDGE GRAPE 
FRUIT AND ORANGE KNIFE 

The blade of this knife is double edge, and is made from the finest cutlery steel, finely tempered, 
curved just right to fit the fruit, and will remove the center, cut cleanly and quickly around the edge 
and divide the fruit into segments ready for eating. 

The feature of the blade is the round end which prevents cutting through the outer skin. A grape fruit 
knife is a necessity as grape fruit are growing so rapidly in popularity as a breakfast food. 

For aale by all dealers. Price 50 cents each. If not found at your dealer's, upon 
receipt of price a knife ivill be sent to any address postpaid by the Manufacturer 



THE EMPIRE KNIFE CO. 



Winsted, G>nn. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
249 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



How to 

Dry Clean 

White 

Gloves 




Wash them in a mixture of Putnam Dry-Cleaner and 

gasoline, using a stiff brush. Rinse in clear gasoline. 

This quick, easy and inexpensive method makes gloves 

look like new. 

Putnam Dry-Cleaner can be used for laces, fine waists, 

silks, embroidery, furs, suits and skirts, curtains, etc. 

Cleans as well as the professioual and at oue-eighth 

the cost. 

Your Druggist sells Putnam Dry-Cleaner— 25c and 50c 

bottles. If he can't supply you, write us— we will send 



bottle, postpaid, for 25c. 

Don't accept substitutes - 



demand the genuine. 



ing"— also blotters, calendar or fan. 



Monroe Drug Co. Dept. J, Quincy, 111. 



Tbese 



ORES 




KIDNEY AND 

Makes 
Unlike 
Leading 
FARWELI^A RHINES, Wateriown, 



package 

FOR 
YSPEPTIGS 

AND OBESITY 

«rybody 
hysician. 



THIS HANDY 
GRINDER ONLY 

Needed in every home. Just the thing 
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, 
etc. Fastens to table or shdf. Turns 
eeisy with one hand. Geared for high 
speed. Gears enclosed makes it per- 
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel 
gives keen edge. Knife guide insure* 
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. Money 
back if not satisfactory. Sent prepaid to 
any address for $2.00 or with our famous 
2 -ill- 1 Flour Siher (regular price $ 1 .00) 
for only $2.50. 

FLOUR 
SIFTER « 

(.Tested and approved by 
Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Made of glass. Seuiitary — easy to 
clean. Hsis two compartments 
with sifter between. Sift flour, 
then turn sifter and re-sift as ohen 
as desired. No trouble, no waste, 
little work. Far better, cleaner, 
easier, more economical than old 
method. 

Sent prepaid upon receipt of 
$1.00 (or three for $2.00), or 
with Grinder, for only $2.50. 
Every housewife needs them 
both. Order today. 
Agents and Dealers Wanted 
Write for our liberal proposition 

WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO., „??waZ° m 





Three Up-to-date Domestic Science Texts 



A Guide to Laundry Work Z 

^ Dm 



MARY D. CHAMBERS, B S., A.M. 

Formerly Instructor of Normal Classes in 
Domestic Science, Pratt Institute, Brooklyn, 
N. Y.; Professorof Domestic Economy and Head of the Department, The James Milliken Universitji, Decatur, 
Illinois ; Professor of Chemistry and Home Economics, and Head of the Departments, Rockford College, Rock- 
ford, Illinois. 

Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents. 

This book treats in a very simple and practical manner all of the details of home laundry work. The description 
of every process is so clear that the pupil can readily follow it. The diagrams of folding clothes after ironing are 
very clear, detailed and numerous. The scientific side has not been neglected. The reason for every process is given, 
but in very simple language. The chapter on reagents deals with simple chemistry applied to laundry work. 



BY 

MARY D. CHAMBERS, 
B.S., A.M. 



Principles of Food Preparation 

Cloth, 272 pages, 37 illustrations, $1.00 net, postpaid $l.l5 

Designed for High Schools, Normal Schools and Colleges. Planned on the inductive system. Each chapter has 5 parts: 
I. Selected recipes, great variety from which to choose, selected because they illustrate the principles studied in the 
chapter. II. List of topics for study or discussion, the topics including correlated subjects, bearing on the work of 
the chapter. III. Questions on the lesson, so framed as to stimulate in the student the ability to generalize. IV. 
Practical exercises to encourage original application of the principles learned. V. Several simple experiments in the 
chemistry and analysis of food. Valuable appendices. A series of charts of the composition of foods as purchased 
and the 100 colorie portion of the same foods cooked. Time tables for cooking. Detailed list of the principles of 
food preparation. Style clear and simple, adapted to students. 

By MARY CHANDLER JONES 

Teacher of Cooking in the Public 
_ Schools of Brookline, Mass. 

Cloth, 272 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15 
This book is designed for the use of teachers in the elementary schools and also for use as a text book in such schools 
when a text book on cooking is desired. The book is divided into thirty-seven chapters or lessons, and contains a full 
and complete course in cooking, besides outlining supplementary work. This is just the book for which teachers 
and schools have been looking. Indeed, we do not see how any teacher of cooking can be without this book. 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE COMPANY, Boston, Ma»8. 



Lessons in Elementary Cooking 



-Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
250 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



A Wonderful Range 

A Woman can't help wanting a new plain Cabinet Glenwood; it 

is so smooth and easy to clean, no filigree or fussy ornamentation, 
just the natural black iron finish. — "The Mission Idea" applied 
to a range. The broad, square oven is very roomy. 

The improved baking damper, heat 
indicator, revolving grate and roller 
bearing ash pan make it the most 
wonderful Cooking Machine ever de- 
vised to make housekeeping drudg- 
less. 

The Gas Range Attachment, bakes, 
cooks and broils to perfection and 
can be used with the coal range to 
double baking capacity. 
Cabinet Glenwood Ranges 
are handsome, convenient 
and wonderful bakers. 





For Coal or Wood. 



For Coal, Wood or Gas. 



Sooner or Later you'll have one, now if you knew 
what it would save. Write today for free booklet. 

^m m Plain Cabinet % 

Glenwood 

The Range that "Makes Cooking Easy." 



Write for free booklet 61 of the Plain Cabinet Glenwood Rang'e to Weir Stove Co., 
Taunton, Mass. If interested in a separate Gas Range ask for booklet 91. 



A big display of Glenwoods at both 
San Francisco and San Diego ExpotitioBS. 



Underwood 

Receives the GRAND PRIZE 



Highest 

Possible 

Award 




From the 

Panama-Pacific 

International 

Exposition 

1915 



^Vhe Machine You Will Eventually Bu^^ 



UNDERWOOD BUILDING, NEW YORK 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept^substitutes 
251 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



BUY VAN DEUSEN CAKE 
MOULDS IN SETS 



And In that way get a free copy of the Chapman Scientific Cake Rules and 
Recipes, which adds greatly to the actual value of the investment, without increasing 
the cost of fame. The cost price, of each article, being the same, whether bought in 
sets or separately, and the rules and recipes are only given with the sets, it being 
necessary to have the entire outfit in order to insure perfect success, in making all 
cakes. 

These Scientific Rules and Recipes tell exactly how to do each operation right, 
being so practical and comprehensive that, no matter what the "luck" has been in 
the past, success will be assured, every time these instructions are followed correctly, 
and ANGEL, SUNSHINE and other of the most delicate, delicious and desirable 
cakes made easier than the ordinary ones are by the old methods. 

OUR SPECIAL OFFER 

If your dealer will not supply you, we will 
send, postpaid, our regular set, consisting of, 1 
Loaf and 2 Layer Moulds, regular size, round 
or square, I Measuring Cup, I Egg Whip and 
a copy of our Scientific Cake Rules and Recipes, 
— to Offices — in the United States — east of 
the Mississippi River for 90 cents, and to those 
west of the same for $1.10. 

Our Scientific Method is to bake all cakes in ungreased moulds, and let them stick, and loosen 
the cake from the mould, with a knife, when it is to be removed — each mould being provided with 
openings at the sides, which are covered with slides, through which the knife is inserted to loosen the 
cake from the bottom. In this way the mould supports the cake, while baking, and prevents its 
settling, and becoming "soggy." 

They may claim that some other kinds of cake moulds are "just as good" as these, and also that 
these Scientific Rules and Recipes are no better than the ordinary ones, but you will only have to 
consult a few, of the thousands, of the cakemakers who are using these, or give the outfit a thorough 
trial yourself, in order to be convinced of the superior merits of these, — not only for Angel Cake, 
but for making all other kinds as well. 




AGENTS WANTED 



To canvass the Towns and Small Cities — where we have not been able to give 
demonstrations — and educate the cakemeikers in regard to the great advantages to be 
derived by practicing our scientific method of cake-making, and take orders for our specialties. We will arrange with 
Church, Domestic Science and other Societies, that want to make money, to act as our agents. This offers a rare 
opportunity to build a very profitable, and permanent, business. For our special terms to agents, address Dept. A. 



THE CHAPMAN GO. 



Geneva, N. Y. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
252 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Is Your Baby Sho-vring 
A Steady Gain? If Not, 
Try Holstein Cows' Milk 

If you cannot nurse your baby, see that it has an equal 
chance for health and strength with that enjoyed by the 
breast-fed baby. You can do this by feeding it Purebred 
Holstein cows' milk. Purebred Holstein cows' milk is 
nearly like human milk, in structure, quality and quantity 
of fats, and in the nature of the curds formed. Holstein 
milk contains its fat in the form of small, even globules 
which pioduce flaky, tender curds, — easily taken care of 
by the digestive juices. In other cows' milk, the curds 
formed are coarse and heavy. The use of these heavier, 
fatter milks usually results in indigestion, which renders 
baby fretful and prevents it from gaining in strength or 
health. 

Ask your milk man for Holstein cows' milk. If he fails 
to provide you. send his name to us and we will try to 
secure a supply for you. Send for our new free illustrated 
booklet, "The Story of Holstein Milk." 




HoUtein-Friesian Association of America 

F. L. HOUGHTON. Sec-y 
7>W American Building, Brattleboro. Vermont 





America's 

Most Famous 

Dessert 

For the most dainty, delicious 
and beautiful dishes at home 
and in the sick-room and hospital, use Jell-O. 

It has the combined qualities of the acid jellies 
and calves-foot jellies. It is not only exceedingly 
pleasing to the eye and of delightful flavor, but 
it greatly facilitates digestion and conserves the 
body's nitrogen. 

No fussy directions, no loss of time, no cook- 
ing, but just the making up of Jell-O in a minute 
in the easy Jell-O way. 

Seven pure fruit flavors: 
Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon, 
Orange, Cherry, Peach, Chocolate. 

10c. each at any grocer's. 

There is a little recipe book in 
every package. 

THE GENESEE PURE 

FOOD CO., 

Le Roy, N. Y., and 

Bridgeburg, Can. 




Two Books Every Housekeeper Should Have 



By 

MARY D. CHAMBERS, 
B.S., A.M. 



A Guide to Laundry Work 

A MANUAL FOR HOME AND SCHOOL 

Cloth, 104 pages, illustrated, 75 cents net, postpaid 90 cents 

This book treats in a very simple and practical manner all of the details of home laundry worli. It is intended 
for the use of the housekeeper as well as for that of the teacher of Laundry Work in the schools, and the descrip- 
tion of every process is so clear that an inexperienced housekeeper will need no other teacher. Not only this, 
but the book is so up-to-date in every respect that the most experienced housekeeper will find something: new 
on every page, and these novel devices or methods have all been tested by actual performance, and their advan- 
tages and disadvantages are fully set forth. Special attention has been given to the Removal of Stains, to various 
methods of soaking clothes, to the washing of Flannels, Blankets and fabrics of wool or wool mixture, and to the 
laundering of Lace, Silk. Embroidery, and Fine Lingerie. One of the novel features is a Time Table^f or ironing 
the everyday articles found in the usual weekly wash. This table should be a guide to laundry "eflHciency." 
Another novelty is the price list, following the description of each article of laundry appliance. The diagrams of 
folding clothes after ironing are very clear, detailed, and numerous. The method of folding every article is shown 
in a series of steps, two or more methods are frequently given, and the folding of an unusually large number of 
garments and other articles is very completely illustrated. The variety, the clearness of detail, and the large 
number of articles included make the diagrams alone worth the price of the book. 



The American Cook Book 



By Mrs. 

JANET McKENZIE HILL 

Editor American Cookery 



Cloth, 280 pages, illustrated, $1.00 net, postpaid $1.15 

A compilation of the best of Mrs. Hill's recipes that have appeared in The Boston Cooking-School Magazine 
and American Cookery. This book is for everyday use. For the most part the recipes are simple and concise, 
and just such as will be of assistance in preparing the regular family meals, but scattered through the book are a 
lew recipes for choice dishes that will grace any feast. Each recipe has been tried and tried again, and is abso- 
lutely right. The directions are complete and easily followed. Using this book you are sure of success every time. 

THE BOSTON COOKING SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
253 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The Best Xmas Gift 



Moth- 
proof 
Cedar 
Chest 

15 Day.' 

Free 

Trial 

How happy and frratef ul the 

woman or girl who becomea the proud 

possessor of a Piedmont Southern Red Cedar 




Chest'. It is the gift that every womanly heart lone 
for. Exquisitely beautiful. Daintily fragrant, ^yon- 



100 
desisrnt 

derfuily useful and economical. Practically everlasting. A Piedmont pro- 
tecti fori, woolens and plumes from moths, mice, dust and damp. Any 
Piedmont shipped on 15 days' free trial. Direct from factory at factory 

prices. Freight prepaid. "Write for big eatalot:. Postage free. Write 

today. 

PIEDMONT RED CEDAE CHEST CO., Dept 38, STATESVILLE, N. 0. 







% 


H l|^ bLKVllNLt lABLLb 

1 1 1 Save Time and Labor 

liMi— fc^l We place one in your home for a 

1 iU free trial of 15 days. 

'R &K Send ftir particulars. 

ff ® G. F. BLAKESLEE & CO. 

Dept. 12. Kansas City. Mo. 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALWAYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME 



A NOVELTY That 
Does Efficient Work 




Saves 
Time and Eggs 

Does the work quicker and belter than it can 
be done in any other way. 

One will be sent postpaid to any present sub- 
scriber as a preminm (or securing and sending 
us one ( 1 ) new yearly subscription at $ 1 .00. 
Cash price 70 cents each. 

Tbe Boston Cooking- School Magazine Co. 
i BOSTON. MASS. 



Send for our Premium List 



We have issued a 16-page 

Premium List 



If 



If 



SEND A POSTAL FOR ONE 

you can obtain among your friends 
a few subscriptions to American 
Cookery and so secure for your- 
self, without cost, some of the 
best and most useful cooking 
utensils 

OR 

you wish to purchase for cash the 
latest and most unique cooking 
novelties. 



The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co. 

Boston, Massachosetts 




FRUIT 
CUTTER 



Cores and split.s apples, pears and 
quinces into ten pieces with one opera- 
tion. A very u.seful article for any 
kitchen or dining room. Silver plated, 
turned wood tray. 

We will send a " Premier Fruit 
Cutter," postpaid, to any present sub- 
scriber as a premium, for securing and 
sending us one (1) new subscription to 
AMERICAN COOKERY, at One Dollar. 

Cash price of Cutter, (iO cents. 



The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

Boston, Mas*. 



Buy advertised Goods- 



-Do not accept substitutes 
254 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




FOR THE WOMAN WHO WANTS GOOD THINGS 

LADD MIXERS 

No. I, I ql. — No. 2, 2 qts, — esf)eclally 
made, clear glass urns, flutrd sides. LADD 
BEATERS insert into and remove from same: 
only ones thus made. We warrant they 
save eggs. Positively Best and Most 
Beautiful Made, By Parcel Post : 
No. 1, $1 75. East of Rocky Mt. States. 
No. I. $2.00, Rocky Mt. States and West 
No. 2, $2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States 
No. 2, $2.75, Rocky Mt. States and West 



••SATURN" 

CLOTHESLINE REEL 

A round Steel Ball — 
dust proof, nickel plated — 
warranted 40 ft. line, tested to 
180 lbs. — takes present clothes- 
pin. Use out - door or in- 
door. Hangs anywhere. Two 
spreading rings. Positively the 

best made at any price. Nickeled, by parcel post 50 
cents. Nickeled and polished, by parcel post 65 cents. 




New — Ready Just dow. 



Every woman wants these. 



Please write. 



UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway, New York 



lESSONS IN COOKING 

^^266 seasonable menus with detailed redpes and h 



Thru Prapara 
tion of Meals 

'266 seasonable menus with detailed redpes and hill directioiu for pre- 
paring eaoh meal. Food Economy, Balanced Diet. Menus for ail Ccca 
lions, Special Articles, etc Bound in wattrproof leatherette. 480 pp 
illustrated. Sent on approval for 5tMi and 50c for 4 monthi or |2 Caan 

Sarnple Pagea Free. 
American School of Home Economics, M3 W. 69th St., Chicago, HL 



KELSEV 

HEALTH HEAT 



THE Kelsey Health Heat is 
the noiseless heat. No 
thumping of pipes. No 
hissing and sissing of air valves 
to drive you to distraction. 

And while it heats it also 
ventilates. 

Plenty of heat with no noise. 
Plenty of air with no drafts. 
Floors as warm as toast. 

Less coal burned, more heat 
secured than from radiator heat. 

I can prove it. Want the 
proofs ? 

Send for Booklet, " Some Sav- 
ing Sense on Heating." 

THE KELSEY 

J. A. CHRISTIAN 

Boston Representative 
267 Centre St.. Dorchester District 

Phone Dorchester 4992-W 

TRASK HEATING CO., Haymarket Square 



Salt Mackerel 

CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER 



FOR THE 
CONSUMER 



x: 



.> 




NOT THE 
DEALER 




FOR YOUR OWN TABLE 



FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied 
DIRECT from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. 
DAVIS COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE OCEAN 

FISH choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish. 

We seU ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT, sending 
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY 

express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, appetizing and 
economical and we want YOU to try some, payment subject to youi 
approval. 

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are delicious for 
breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not spoil on youi 
hands. 

CODFISH, as we salt it, is white, boneless and ready for instant 
use. It makes a substantial meal, a fine change from meat, at a much 
lower cost. 

FRESH LOBSTER is the best thing known for salads. Right 
fresh from the water, our lobsters simply are boiled and packed in 
PARCHMENT-LINED CANS. They come to you as the purest 
and safest lobsters you can buy and the meat is as crisp and natural as if 
you took it from the shell yourself. 

FRIED CLAMS is a relishabie. hearty dish that your whole family 
will enjoy. No other flavor is just hke that of clams, whether fried or in 
a chowder. 

FRESH MACKEREL, perfect for frying. SHRIMP to cream 
on toast. CRABMEAT for Newburg or deviled. SALMON ready 
to serve, SARDINES of all kinds. TUNNY for salad, SAND- 
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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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257 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XX NOVEMBER, 191S No. 4 



CONTENTS FOR NOVEMBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR HIGH TEA, THANKSGIVING DAY . . 265 
AT THE SIGN OF THE TEA-KETTLE AND TABBY 

CAT (Illustrated) Edna Eaton Hurlburt 267 

THE MIRACLE-MAID Quincy Germaine 270 

THE TRUANT Christine Kerr Davis 272 

WAGE-EARNING AFTER MARRIAGE Emma Gray Wallace 273 
THE PARENT-TEACHER ASSOCIATION 

Alexander Thogerson 275 

AND TOADSTOOLS, PLEASE . . Edwena Lawrence Davis 278 

DIVINITY 281 

ACCORDING TO ORDERS Alice M. Ashton 282 

EDITORIALS 286 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M. Hill 289 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN NOVEMBER . . . „ „ „ 297 

MENUS FOR THANKSGIVING DINNER . . „ „ „ 298 

DOMESTIC ENGINEERING George E. Walsh 299 

FRIENDSHIP Mary Carolyn Davies 301 

CLEAN MEALS FOR ALL COMERS . . . . G. C. H. 302 

NUTS ARE NUTS Jeannette Ducy 304 

THANKSGIVING . . ' L. M. Thornton 305 

HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 306 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 309 

DISAPPEARANCE OF THE GENERAL HOUSE-WORKER 

J. Y. N. 314 

THE SILVER LINING 316 

MISCELLANEOUS 322 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times A Year lOc A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. 
Copyriiilit. 1915. by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASS. 



Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

258 





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AMERICAN COOKERY 




Economy and Efficiency 

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BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 



INDEX FOR NOVEMBER 

Page 

According to Orders 282 

And Toadstools, Pleass 278 

At the Sign of the Tea Kettle and Tabby- 
Cat, 111 267 

Clean Meals for All Comers 302 

Disappearance of the General House-Worker 3 14 

Domestic Engineering 299 

Editorials 286 

Friendship 301 

Home Ideas and Economies 306 

Menus 265, 297 

Miracle-Maid, The 270 

Nuts are Nuts 304 

Parent-Teacher Association, The 275 

Silver Lining, The 316 

Thanksgiving 298 

Wage-earning after Marriage 273 

Seasonable Recipes: 

Biscuit, Sweet Potato 294 

Canapes, Bacon 289 

Cauliflower, Creamed, Au Gratin, 111. ... 292 

Cheese, Cottage, 111 296 

Chicken, Stewed with Cauliflower, 111. . . 290 

Custard, Frozen, 111 296 

Doughnuts, Thanksgiving, Yeast, 111. . . 295 

Dressing, Plain Bread 292 

Eggs Poached under Glass Bell, 111 290 

Fondant, 111 296, 324 

Fondant, How to Use 324 

Goodwins, 111 296 

Onions Stuffed with Ham, 111 291 

Pastry, Flaky, for Chicken Pie, 111 290 

Pie, Chicken, Casserole Style, 111 289 

Pie, Quince 294 

Pie, Sweet Potato 294 

Pudding, Thanksgiving, 111 295 

Puffs, Potato, 111 294 

Salad, Celery and Apple 293 

Salad, Oyster 293 

Soup, Corn 289 

Squash, Summer, Baked with Bacon, 111. 292 

Stuffing, Green, for Roast Chicken 291 

Tongue and Flank, Pickled Beef 292 

Tongue, with Mayonnaise of Cauliflower 292 

Turnovers, Mock Cherry 294 

Queries and Answers: 

Bread, Uses for Dried 312 

Cake, Chocolate Mocha 310 

Cake, Devil's Food 310 

Cake, Marble 309 

Cake, Moist Spice 311 

Cake, Newport 311 

Chops, Cereal and Nut-Meat 312 

Chowder, Rich Clam 310 

Dishes, Light Breakfast 312 

Doughnuts, Why they crack 310 

Frosting, Mocha 310 

Fudge, Peanut Butter 311 

Hash, Vegetable, for Six Persons 312 

Ice, Orange-and-Cream, Molded 310 

Ice Cream, Rich Chocolate 311 

Jelly, Cucumber, Mint 309 

ivoaf. Bean 312 

Refreshments, Light 309 

Sandwiches, Spanish 309 

Sauce, Marshmallow, for Ice Cream. ... 311 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 
260 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



An Entirely New Cook Book by Miss Farmer 

A NEW BOOK OF COOKERY 

By FANNIE MERRITT FARMER 

Author of "The Boston Cooking School Cook Book," Etc. 
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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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ADVERTISEMENTS 



BUY VAN DEUSEN CAKE 
MOULDS IN SETS 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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264 



Menus for High Tea, Thanksgiving Day 



Oyster Soup 

Celery, Olives 

Cold Roast Chicken, Bread Dressing 

Cranberr^^ Sauce 

Parker House Rolls 

Currant Jelly Tarts 

Fig Cake, Frozen Custard 

Coffee 

Nuts, Maple Bonbons 

II 

Chicken Soup 

Olives, Salted Nuts 

Mayonnaise of Oysters and Celery 

Cleft Rolls 

Mustard Pickles 

Little Pumpkin Pies 

(Sweetened with Maple Syrup) 

Individual Charlotte Russe 

Coffee 

III 

Cream of Com Soup.. Pop Com Garnish 

Chicken-and-Celery Salad 

Squash Biscuits or 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Raisin-and-Cranberry Turnovers 

Grape Juice Sponge 

(in glass cups) 

Cider 



IV 



Sliced Canned Pineapple 

Chicken Croquettes with Peas 

Parker House Rolls 

Cold Boiled Ham 

Apple-and-Celery Salad 

Individual Lemon Pies 

(with iVIeringue) 

Bonbons, Salted Nuts, Grape Juice 



Macedoine of Fruit (in glass cups) 

Scalloped Oysters 

Baking Powder Biscuit 

Mixed Mustard Pickles, Olives 

Stewed Figs, Whipped Cream 

Salted Nuts, Bonbons 

Coffee 



American Cookery 



Vol. XX 



NOVEMBER, 1915 



No. 4 



At the Sign of the Tea-kettle and Tabby Cat 

By Edna Eaton Hurlburt 




THE SIGN 

DRIVING along a beautiful 
stretch of country road in 
eastern Massachusetts, we were 
attracted by an odd and quaint sign 
with a picture of a tabby cat and tea- 
kettle illustrating the words, "One- 
half Mile to the Tabby Cat Tea-Room." 
Within two minutes our car had stopped 
in front of this picturesque tea-house 
which is rated by many travelled 
motorists as amongst the best in New 
England. 

This tea-room is one of the results of 
the work of a village improvement 
society, composed of ladies of the 

267 



summer and all-the-year-round residents 
who have zealously Vv'orked to make this 
venture a financial success. 

At one side of the village green was 
an old harness shop which had not been 
used for years. "Why not convert 
this into a tea-house?" one of the pro- 
gressive members of the society asked. 
"It certainly would add to the beauty 
of the village green and it might add a 
few dollars to our treasury." The 
suggestion was met with instant ap- 
proval and the next step was to put 
the idea into action. 

The shop was rented for a compara- 
tively small sum of money as it was of 
no real value to the owner. Next, a 
local carpenter was hired to make a 
few alterations, which were followed by 
a good cleaning, coat of paint and white- 
washing. A few additional windows 
were cut to let in more light and air. 
A latticed veranda was built across the 
front which, with the pretty window 
boxes, helped to relieve the severe lines 
of this building, making it attractive 
and artistic. 

Inside, the building is divided into 
two rooms, tea-room and kitchen, the 
walls of the latter being painted a soft 
cream color and equipped with cup- 
boards and shelves. The walls of the 
tea-room are painted buff and around 
the top is the most unique stenciled 
frieze, done in green and white, of de- 
signs pertaining to the subject "Tea" 
with appropriate mottoes as "Unless 



268 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the kettle boiling be, Filling the teapot 
spoils the tea," "Tea which not even 
critics criticize," 'Tolly put the kettle 
on and we'll all take tea." 

This mural decoration, done by a 
well known New York artist, a relative 
of Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, was 
one of the most expensive items, but 
as it has helped to add to the fame of this 
stopping place, the members of the 
society have been well repaid for their 
expenditure. The frieze, together with 
the quaint sign of "The Tea-kettle and 
Tabby Cat", done in green and black, 
add prestige to this charming place. 

The furniture is simple, consisting of 
plain pine chairs and tables painted 
green, which color contrasts refreshingly 
with that of the walls. The predominat- 
ing color, green, is still further carried 
out in the draperies which are of heavy 
fish net. 

Luncheons and teas are served in the 
tea-room, on the latticed veranda, or at 
tables on the lawn, according to the wish 
of the guests. Morning bridge parties 
are quite a feature as several have been 
given. 



A woman's exchange has been most 
successfully carried on as those in 
charge have carefully noticed what 
articles have proved good sellers. Here 
one may buy the most delicious cakes, 
nourishing bread and jellies, as well as 
dainty embroideries, hand woven bas- 
kets and various novelties. The fore- 
handed person would do well to buy her 
Christmas gifts here, as these articles 
packed in boxes, with the quaint sticker 
"Tea-kettle and Tabby Cat", are most 
pleasing. Experienced workers attend 
to special orders as is shown by the fol- 
lowing announcement: 

WOMAN'S EXCHANGE 
will take orders for 
Waitresses' Aprons, $1.50~$2.00 
Korean silk puffs, wool filled 

double $16.00 single $14.00 

Hemming Table Linen 
Prices for Hemming Napkins 
five-eighths, $2.00 a dozen 

three-fourths 2.50 a dozen 

seven-eighths 3.00 a dozen 

Cloth, 20 cents a yard 




THE TEA-HOUSE 



AT THE SIGN OF TEA-KETTLE AND TABBY CAT 



269 




INSIDE TEA-ROOM 



Initials 

30 cents an inch, Old English 
24 cents other than Old English 

Buttonholes 

3 cents, smaller than one-half inch 

5 cents, one-half inch 

8 cents, larger than one-half inch 

This tea-house is open every afternoon 
from three to six o'clock, except Sunday, 
from May to November, during which 
hours members of the improvement 



society give their services. The popu- 
larity of this little place is shown by the 
fact that during the month of July six 
hundred persons had lunch there. 

After three successful years with the 
tea-house, the village improvement so- 
ciety has found that more room is 
needed for this work. Consequently, 
they have bought a small piece of land 
adjoining the lot on which the tea-house 
stands, and in a short time, travellers 
will find a new building where greater 
accommodations will be furnished. 




THE FRIEZE 



The Miracle-Maid 

By Quincy Germaine 



WHEN mother says salad, and 
Henrietta custard, and Ned 
must have omelet, and father 
demands cake, and the hens won't lay, 
will you tell me how to accomplish the 
miracle^" 

Rose's voice was unanswered in the 
empty kitchen whence the maid-of- 
all-work had recently fled. The speaker 
was as hot as the humid day outside, 
and in her straight blue apron with her 
curly hair concealed by a severe dusting- 
cap looked almost anything but the 
daughter of the house. She surveyed 
the untidy scene disconsolately for a 
moment, then took a broom from the 
closet and began to wield it with a fury 
calculated to bring on a fever. But by 
the time the room was swept and its 
tables cleared of breakfast dishes, her 
excitement had abated. She sank down 
in a rocking-chair by the window for a 
moment of futile reflection. 

It was the first week of the Gerard 
family vacation, supposed to be for 
purposes of recuperation and idleness. 
The one efficient maid they had brought 
out from the city had endured the 
pleasures of country living for five days. 
That morning she had departed without 
warning just two hours before Hen- 
rietta's guests were due. Not quite 
thirty minutes later Mrs. Gerard had 
been summoned by telephone to a sick 
neighbor four miles away. She had 
been driven off in one direction by her 
husband, while her son went in the other 
to meet and delay his sister's arriving 
friends. Henrietta had undertaken to 
set the rooms in order upstairs, so Rose 
was alone in the kitchen with the prob- 
lem that defied all solution. 

*Tn the city with stores round every 
comer we never need an egg," she re- 
flected gloomily. "Out here everything 
seems to depend on hens. Drat 'em!" 



No reassuring sounds came from the 
hen-3^ard as the moments passed. Ner- 
vously she ran over the possibilities 
of the ice-box and pantry, but always 
she came up against the dire necessity 
presented by the combination of ex- 
pected guests and inconsiderate fowls. 

"I'd like to wring their necks! May- 
onnaise, two; custard, three; cake, three; 

and Gracious, how many for the 

omelet? It's a foolish meal anyhow, 
all eggs! They'll be sick." 

She rose from her chair and crossed 
the long kitchen to the pantry. In 
jerking open the ice-chest door she man- 
aged to strike her head a blow that 
brought the tears to her eyes. Though 
cold meat, fruit, and vegetables con- 
fronted her, she propped her head on her 
flst and wept. 

Bathed in a flood of woe and thoroughly 
enjoying the misery, she did not turn 
round when presently she heard a step 
behind her. She thought it was Hen- 
rietta, when a man's voice said: 

"Here are your eggs, and fresh butter." 

Rose recognised that voice. It was 
the last straw on the load of exasper- 
ation. Her knees gave way beneath 
the burden and 'she sank limply to the 
floor. Though she did not look up, she 
knew exactly how the intruder looked. 

He was tall, with smiling brown eyes 
and handsome teeth. He alwa^^s wore 
khaki, and his hair and tanned skin were 
of the same color. He was not merely 
an egg-and-butter man either, but one 
who had come originally, as they had, to 
spend his vacations in the country and 
had fallen under the spell of rural living. 
He was a bachelor, too, and distinctly 
eligible from the society point-of-view. 
Furthermore, he had asked her to marry 
him, more than once in the six years 
of their acquaintance. She knew that 
he would never ask her again now that 



270 



THE :miracle maid 



271 



he had seen her thus, — hot and dirt}^ 
and drenched in tears. She bowed her 
head still lower and sobbed afresh. 

But the egg-and-butter man was of 
an inquiring type of mind. After a 
moment he came over to where she 
crouched, picked her up without an 
effort, and in an equally matter-of-fact 
way carried her to the sink where he 
washed her face and dried it on her apron. 
Then he put her in the rocking-chair 
and stood over her till she looked at him. 

"What's the matter?" he demanded 
then. 

She told him and tears welled up again 
in the telling. 

"Well," he said, "here are the eggs." 

She looked at the box and back at him. 

"Two dozen! Dick, I could kiss you I" 

"You may," he answered gravely, 
"Thirty cents' worth to the dozen." 

"Xow we'll see this Httle party 
through," he added. "What do you 
say to my being butler, just for style'" 

Rose nodded with shining eyes, as 
she began the mayonnaise. 

"Did anyone see you come?" she 
asked. 

"Never a soul. I couldn't get in the 
front door. That's why I came round 
to the back." 

"That's the proper door when you 
come to see the maid," she retorted. 
"Just you keep out of sight. Miss 
Henrietta's very strict about my having 
followers till my work's done!" 

"But I'm on this job, too, till after 
lunch. Can I have a white shirt and 
coat of Ned's?" 

"Out in the laundry, I think. Go 
and look while I mix the cake." 

The egg-and-butter man went out. 
The butler returned. He laid the table 
while she made the custard, and van- 
ished dutifully when Henrietta, — as the 
guests were sighted down the road, — 
came to the kitchen to see how Rose 
was progressing. 

"What will we do with them this 
afternoon?" she questioned desperately, 
as she turned to go. "Ned has driven 



them all round before bringing them 
over." 

"Everything is arranged." said Rose. 
"Just get out of my kitchen now, and 
keep your head during luncheon." 

Henrietta went. She did not like 
her sister's tone, but she knew that only 
a miracle could save the day and she 
wondered despairingly what would be 
forthcoming. Her greeting to the 
guests when they drove up with Ned 
was gay, though perhaps hysterical. The 
Bostwick girls were rather formal friends, 
and she dreaded the necessit}^ of apol- 
ogies. The reappearance of her mother 
and father, however, distracted her 
mind from the need of excuses and they 
were all in the dining-room before she 
recollected what she had intended to say. 

The butler stood behind her mother's 
chair. Henrietta saw her father's eye- 
brows rise as he glanced at the man. 
Her heart sank when Ned hastily emptied 
his glass by a single gulp. Furtively 
she met her mother's eyes. In them, be- 
neath amusement, was an unmistakable 
command. 

"Rose was sorry not to be in for 
luncheon," she said to the nearest 
guest, "but she'll be with us this after- 
noon." 

"I'm glad she's not oft' visiting," 
was the reply. "Mrs. Gerard, this is the 
dearest place! The simple life for mine!" 
and the meal proceeded tranquilly. 

The omelet was an enormous fluft' 
set in a garniture that no che^ could 
invent from the limited resources of a 
kitchen conser\'atory; the salad under 
its golden dressing was an old-fashioned 
bouquet. The cake and custard pro- 
claimed at once to unaccustomed palates 
that real fresh milk and new-laid eggs 
are luxuries unknown to the city-bred. 
And the hand that sen.'ed and removed 
the daint}', flowered plates did not mar 
the culinary achievement by a single 
slip. 

Across the gorgeous irises that formed 
the center-piece, the Bostwick girls, 
while listening to Henrietta's account 



272 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of the simplicity of this vacation Hfe 
and to Ned's laughing comments on the 
terrible dearth of congenial friends, 
exchanged glances that in the course of 
time cost their father the price of the 
nearest available farm. 

When luncheon was at an end and they 
had been on the shaded piazza an hour 
or more, as conversation began to flag, 
Ned raised the question of plans for the 
afternoon. All sounds from the dining- 
room had ceased, and likewise a murmur 
of running water from above. 

"I was waiting for Rose," said Henri- 
etta. "I'll go in and see if she has come." 

She went upstairs and down the long 
hall to her sister's room. The door 
was closed, and she hesitated to knock 
for fear of breaking in upon a deserved 
rest. But to her timid tap a wide-awake 
voice called "Come", and she burst 
open the door amazedly. 

Rose, cool and very much preoccupied, 
stood before the mirror dressed in white. 
She was trying the effect of different 
hats. She did not even glance at 
Henrietta. 

"Rose," begged the latter after a 



moment or two of silence, "are you 
coming down? The Bostwicks are get- 
ting bored and there's nothing on earth 
to do." 

"If they can wait another half -hour, 
there's a wedding for them to attend 
over at the old meeting-house." 

"Whose?" 

"Your butler and your maid." 

Henrietta sank on the bed with a gasp. 

"But Dick's a farmer! You said it 
would take a miracle to make you 
marry him." 

"It did," returned Rose composedly. 

"Out here in the country all the time! 
What will you do?" 

Rose decided on a lace hat trimmed 
with tiny pink blossoms under the brim. 

"What will I do?" she repeated with 
a little smile. "Give me something 
harder to answer, why don't you? I 
made a luncheon out of nothing at all; 
from the empty air I supplied a butler 
to serve it properly. Now I'm offering 
to entertain your guests in a way 
that will certainly surprise them. Go 
downstairs and hunt for another miracle 
somebody would like to have performed." 



The Truant 



Love is waiting somewhere, 
Just beyond to-day. 
Surely we will find him 
Ere the sky grows grey. 

Patient have we followed. 
Though the way was long. 

Lured forever onward 

By the vagrant's song. 

Through the moaning forest, 
Up the sunny slope — 
Over wastes of water. 
Lit by gleams of hope. 

Surely we will find him, 

Ere the day is past. 

Truant Love will greet us 

With his smile at last. 

Christine Kerr Davis. 



Wage Earning After Marriage 

By Emma Gary Wallace 



THE question frequently arises 
as to whether or not the best 
interests of the home are served 
when the wife continues to act as a 
wage earner after marriage. 

Thoughtless individuals, who have 
strong feelings as to the place of the 
woman in the home, are inclined to 
give an unequivocal verdict against 
the wife spending part or all of her 
time employed in a gainful occupation. 
This is scarcely fair, for a judge must 
be ready to hear both sides of every 
case before he renders a decision. 

When two young people agree to 
marry and both are ambitious to own 
a home of their own and both are 
valued employees, they may decide 
with much show of good judgment 
to go on earning, in order to increase 
the home fund as rapidly as possible 
while they are yet free of family cares 
and expenses. Provided the wife is 
in good health and prefers to go on 
with her work as usual, rather than 
to keep house in a few rented rooms, 
using up every dollar of her husband's 
earnings as it comes in, there is no 
reason why she should not do the 
thing which seems best. 

Where, however, a great many such 
young women make a mistake is to 
be over-ambitious and to determine 
to go on earning as usual and to keep 
house at the same time. Even light 
housekeeping may prove too much, 
for while living expenses may be re- 
duced, the wife fails to realize that 
the double burden she proposes to 
carry is too much for her. In order 
to get breakfast before she and her 
husband leave for the day's duties, 
she must be up early and have com- 
pleted a goodly portion of a morning's 
work before she leaves for her regular 
employment. If, because of weariness 



or an evening of pleasure, she over- 
sleeps, husband and wife hurry off to 
work improperly fed for the duties 
before them. Improper feeding means 
lowered efficiency and this is neither 
fair to the employer nor employee. 

Even if the noon meal is eaten at a 
lunch counter or in a restaurant, the 
evening meal is to be prepared after 
the wife reaches home, entitled to a 
reasonable degree of rest after a day 
of business. For a time the novelty 
of getting cos}^ little meals and having 
them with the "one man in the world" 
will buoy her up, but, sooner or later, 
the extra work of preparation and of 
clearing up the meal will be wearisome. 
The rest time of evenings and Sun- 
days w411 inevitably be more or less 
invaded, and after a few months the 
wife, who is trying to do too much, 
becomes wearied and fretted, while 
her husband will be thoroughly sat- 
isfied with the arrangement. His 
opinion is decided, for he has the 
freedom and the comfort of a home 
without his own cares being ma- 
terially increased. Even the kindest 
of men, ready and willing to help, 
cannot bear much of the added burden. 
It is sure to fall upon the shoulders 
of the wife. Therefore, it is evident, 
if both are to remain wage earners 
and to retain their full capacity for 
work and pla^s that home duties 
must not be added to business ones. 

If it is possible to keep a helper in 
the home, the situation may be differ- 
ent, — and it may not. It depends 
upon the helper. If a reliable and 
capable person can be found who is 
trustworthy and economical, the ex- 
pense of maintaining the home with 
three people, will not be any more, 
and possibly a little less, than the 
expense of boarding for two people. 



273 



274 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



The gain in comfort and freedom is 
always to be taken into account. If 
a careless, unskilled worker is placed 
in charge of the home, the expenses 
will be proportionately high and too 
much care will devolve upon the 
wife. It will worry her to see supplies 
extravagantly handled, to know that 
her home is poorly cared for, and to be 
obliged to partake of meals lacking 
in nourishing qualities. It is better, 
under those circumstances, to be re- 
lieved of the cares of housekeeping, 
for the disadvantages of boarding will 
be considerably less. 

In the case of a business or pro- 
fessional woman with an established 
clientele, there may be the best of 
reasons for continuing. A woman who 
has spent time, effort, and money to 
equip herself for a given line of work, 
who prefers to do that work above all 
other things, and who has won a certain 
measure of success, will doubtless be 
able to systematize her effort and 
organize her daily routine so as to 
give a fair amount of time to the ex- 
ecutive management and direction of 
her home. A woman physician cap- 
able of making an annual income 
nearing the four figure mark, expressed 
it as her conviction that it would be 
an economic waste for her to spend 
her time doing that which she could 
hire a housekeeper to do better than 
she could do it, because her forte did 
not lie along that line of endeavor. 

The woman who has children comes 
under a different head altogether. 
If outside employment interferes in 
any way with her maternal duties, 
motherhood should come first. The 
years when she can be all in all to her 
children are comparatively few and 
this higher duty, or rather privilege, 
of building up strong bodies and sound 
characters should not be sidetracked 
for anything else. 

Here again, however, some women 
find themselves face to face with the 
problem of helping earn a living for 



the children. There may be good 
reasons for this. The husband and 
father may have been taken from their 
side, or ill health or disaster may have 
cast its shadow upon the home, or 
it sometimes happens that a good man, 
who is free from bad habits, is not a 
financial success and the mother looks 
ahead to the time when the little ones 
must be educated. Here, again, it is 
not fair to condemn the wage-earning 
mother without a hearing. 

She may feel that she is able to 
provide better for them, have as much 
time to spend with them, and still 
keep mentally in touch with the world 
of thought and progress. If she is 
able to do this and still give them 
the training, encouragement, sympathy, 
study, care, and understanding to which 
they are entitled, she should be at 
liberty to dispose of the rest of her 
time in the manner that appeals to 
her as the best and most fruitful. 

The whole matter resolves itself 
into two or three guiding principles. 
The woman wage-earner makes a 
mistake to attempt diversified duties 
that over-tax her physically and 
nervously. The trouble is not usually 
that she earns, but that she tries to 
be a housekeeper as well as a bread- 
winner. Her success in operating a 
home and running a business, or asso- 
ciating in a business, depends in large 
measure upon her executive ability, 
her power to delegate minor duties to 
others, and to exact the proper per- 
formance of these. The wage-earning 
mother will sacrifice the opportunity 
of her rnotherhood, unless she makes 
her business interests wholly secondary 
to her mother interests. Here, again, 
her capacity for planning and execut- 
ing are tested. She must have keen 
intuitions and be a good reader 
of human nature, so that she may 
keep in touch with her children and 
their interests and her own work 
and its interests without neglecting 
either. 



WAGE EARNING AFTER MARRIAGE 



275 



It is more difficult to do two things 
well than to do one thing well, yet 
there are those who do not make a 
success of one thing, and others who 
are able to handle several things to 
good advantage. There are only so 
many hours in the day and exactly 
seven days in the week. Some people 
will spend month after month and year 
after year and still have little to show 
in the way of definite, S3'stematic 
results, while others have a faculty 
for making minutes and duties dove- 
tail into each other successfully. 

The story is told of a physician, who 
had such a keen realization of the 
value of time and his own responsi- 
biHty in the use of it, that he wrote a 
large and valuable volume while he 
was waiting for people to come to doors 
after he had rung their bells. It 



took him a number of years, but he did 
it and did it well. 

The woman wage-earner with a home 
of her own usually values highly the 
minutes. She is not a trifler and not 
a waster of opportunity. She may 
wear out sooner than her more leisurely 
sister, — and she may not. That too, 
depends upon the temperament. She 
is sure to take a keen interest in 
the world of progress, in uplift move- 
ments, and to have a broad sympathy 
for the people about her, because her 
own interests are diversified and she 
is constantly going beyond the bound- 
aries of a closely restricted life. 

All women do not need to become wage 
earners after marriage, nor is it best they 
should, but certain it is that some are 
able to fill their places in a manner 
which benefits themselves and others. 



The Parent-Teacher's Association 

By Klea Alexander Thogerson 



THE Parent-Teachers' Association 
of Lawndale decided upon one 
thing at its last meeting and that 
was to hold a regular old-fashioned, 
little-red-brick-school spelling match, 
topped off with a general review^ in 
geographical questions. While no one 
could afterguards account for the whole 
affair having been sanctioned, still it 
must be admitted that as the idea had 
grown, so had their enthusiasm, and 
the fathers mellowed as the evening 
advanced. This was something like! 
New-fangled ideas were all very well, 
but once in a while it paid to get back 
to first principles and examine the found- 
ations of things, and look well into the 
three R's. 

Children needed a good stiff review 
once in a while, and how better than to 
make it a family affair, and teach them 
how to think quickly on their feet in 



the presence of people. It was brought 
forth as an argument in favor of this, 
that ability to make correct snap judg- 
ments was necessary in the business 
world which so many were doomed to 
enter. i\ll of this and much more was 
said at what was considered the most 
enthusiastic meeting of the season. 
The hour was set for seven-thirty in 
order to permit the children to reach 
home in good season. Twenty from the 
Fifth and Sixth Grades were to be chosen 
as spellers, while the same number from 
the Seventh and Eighth Grades were 
to qualify for the geographical test. To 
be sure, the Eighth Graders were now 
studying History, but that was all the 
better, for it would bring to light how 
much is remembered and how much 
forgotten after the subject is dropped. 
If the meeting had been adjourned 
immediately upon deciding what the 



276 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



refreshments were to be, all would have 
been well, and there would have been no 
tale to relate. But it takes time to 
explain the mysteries of a good lemonade 
and, while this was being done, another 
plot was being hatched. "You know 
you must take one and one-half dozen 
lemons," a practical and forehanded 
woman was saying, "and grate the rinds. 
Squeeze out the juice and strain all of 
it. Then add seven pounds of sugar. 
This will make twelve gallons." 

When the housewife had said her 
last word, M. AlHson, who had been 
busily thinking, arose and said, "Friends, 
before we adjourn let me put an idea 
into the heads of these men. What's 
good for the children is good for the old 
folks. How many of you can recite the 
states and their capitals? The principal 
cities of foreign countries? The five 
largest rivers in the world? Now why 
don't we follow the youngsters with an 
impromptu exhibition of our own?" 
Amid much good-natured chaffing he 
managed to get the motion put, seconded, 
and recorded before adjournment. On 
the way home, while the wives walked 
ahead discussing if, after all, some cake 
wouldn't go well with the lemonade, 
the men sauntered along in the rear, 
deciding that Allison's idea wasn't such 
a bad one, for who had time to 
brush up on such things, when these 
skittish times in the business world 
demanded a firm hand on the reins? 

The next morning Mr. Cook caught 
the last coach of the last suburban train, 
which would get him to the office on 
time, and dropped down in the seat 
beside Allison. The papers scanned, 
conversation naturally took the trend 
of the evening before. Then modern 
punishments were discussed and Mr. 
Allison made the remark that while his 
son Bobbs had had such a bad jaw he had 
been so petted and humored, that now, 
since the dentist had finally allayed the 
trouble enough to succeed in getting his 
mouth open and pull the tooth, there 
had been no living with the boy and Mr. 



Allison knew that, ere many days, he'd 
have to hold a session with Bobbs in the 
woodshed. It gave Mr. Allison peculiar 
pleasure to speak of that trip to the den- 
tist, for ever since Bobbs had had to miss 
Judith Cook's party because of it, Mr. 
Allison had felt an atmosphere as impen- 
etrable as it was intangible surrounding 
his son. The station reached, each 
went his own hurried way with a brief 
"So long, neighbor." 

Thus the matter stood when the night 
of the meeting arrived. Most of the 
neighbors living on the street with the 
Cooks were there, for they were of those 
who believed in keeping a sustained 
interest in their teachers and schools. 
It was a jovial informal meeting, yet 
only the elders seemed at ease. Tight 
stiff collars and creaky shoes illy con- 
cealed the boys' impending stage fright, 
while huge perky bows bobbed about 
on the heads of excited little girls. As 
usual, Judith Cook's bow was the 
perkiest and, likewise, did the most 
bobbing. Finery has a way of pre- 
serving the dignity and self respect of 
womankind. 

The children's spelling match began. 
If a child sailed through triumphantly, 
two parental hearts were likely to re- 
sume normal beating while unconsciously 
their heads were held higher. If a 
child failed in its flight through a juggled 
alphabet and had to sit down in utter 
oblivion, that oblivion was too deep 
for us to probe, so we will respect their 
despair and pass on. Of course, the 
children did as the average children do, 
failed on the one word on which they had 
drilled the most. 

Then the geographical test came on. 
Judith Cook sat down, with a bounce, 
so early in the game that her father was 
plumb disgusted. Couldn't the child re- 
member anything? Who ever heard of 
the Amazon River being located so that it 
emptied into the North Sea? Hadn't the 
child any bump of location? She never 
got such rattle brains from her father any- 
how! But to you, gentle reader, I wish 



THE PARENT-TEACHERS' ASSOCIATION 



277 



to whisper that Judith was not only the 
very image of her father, but her abiUties 
ran along the same lines. And since a 
phrenologist hunting for Mr. Cook's 
bump of location would have found only 
a dimple, do 3^ou think it really Judith's 
fault that she could never remember 
that the Amazon graced the map of 
South America? Now Mr. Cook's 
business competitors had to arise earlier 
than he and stay in the city later than 
the widely advertised five-fifteen train, 
in order to get ahead of him, and by the 
same token Judith's business ability 
was at once the pride and despair of 
her family. She could leave home in 
the morning with a new pencil and an 
eraser, but she counted that day lost 
whose setting sun saw not those two 
articles miraculously turned into a 
pencil box and penholder, with several 
blotters, to say nothing of a stick of 
licorice. 

So it was with an unconscious desire 
to retrieve the family's reputation that 
Mr. Cook volunteered to head the list 
of parents needed for the second half 
of the program. After a round or two 
of such easy questions that no one sat 
down, the questioner started in to forcibly 
remove that jaunty secure expression 
from their faces. In doing so, she 
placed beads of perspiration on their 
brows. One by one, they began to drop 
out, chagrined, amused or disgusted as 
the case might be. Suddenly, the ""one 
just ahead of Mr. Cook had "Name three 
principal cities of China" hurled at 
him. Until the man showed signs of 
weakening, Mr. Cook felt no fear, but 
he suddenly realized that it was his duty 
to answer it. "Pekin!" Of that he was 
sure! Where was it that fellow whom 
he'd met on the train w^as bound for in 
China to try to open a branch office 
for his firm? Now he recalled it and, 
after a pause perceptible only to Mrs. 
Cook, he cleared his throat and calmly 
said "Hongkong." The names all 
soimded alike in China anyhow and what 
was another one? For one fleeting 



second he felt an undercurrent of doubt 
as he said the name, but that passed, for if 
anything sounded as if it belonged, surely 
this one did, so it was with a smug 
sense of well-being that he spoke up 
and in a little louder tone, to cover the 
sHght hesitancy, said "Oshkosh." A 
waiting audience doubted its senses. 
But a look at his face and they realized 
he meant it. 

Mrs. Cook felt almost the numbness 
of despair that she might have felt, had 
she been a prisoner before the bar and 
her husband a judge pronouncing sen- 
tence by one w^ord, "Sing Sing." But 
no numbness could long remain unmoved 
by the shout of laughter which smote 
the air. Of course, you know that Lawn- 
dale is like one big family, and so it was 
enjoyment untinged with malice which 
\lv. Cook heard echoing on all sides. 

When they all gathered around the 
frappe bowl, chatting on all topics from 
Mendel's Theory to Plymouth Rocks, 
poor, dear, tactless Mrs. Rogers had the 
misfortune to be conversing with Mr. 
Cook, when she told of her recent read- 
ing on the subject of type reversion. Just 
as Mrs. Cook came to say it was time to 
be going, Mrs. Rogers was saying, "My 
boy Jim is just like me. And anyone 
can see Judith and you are alike in every 
way, Mr. Cook. So I guess it must 
be true that sons are like mothers, and 
daughters are like fathers. Don't you 
think so, too, Mrs. Cook?" 

But, knowing that her husband had 
had about all he could stand without 
bursting, she merely smiled, and mur- 
muring about their hurrying as it was 
late for the children to be out, she headed 
her husband for home and safety. 
Wandering through the shady fragrant 
street in the moonlight seemed to calm 
Mr. Cook a trifle. At any rate, as he 
bent over the key hole, he was able to 
speak coherently and this is what his 
wife heard, "There's too much tom- 
foolery about these school associations. 
I don't believe I'll bother to waste a 
whole day going to their annual picnic." 



"And Toadstools, Please" 



By Edwena Lawrence Davis 



THE current idea is that while 
you may eat a mushroom and 
live, if you eat a toadstool, you 
will surely die. To say to the waiter 
after you have ordered the carnivorous 
part of your meal "and mushrooms, 
please," indicates both taste and sense, 
but to say "and toadstools, please", 
would suggest that you had been brought 
up in the culinary back-woods and had 
lost your reason. That is the popular 
idea, and, like many another popular 
idea, it is wrong. 

It was Dr. Carl Hering of Philadelphia 
who first" put me right on the matter 
of mushrooms and toadstools. Most 
people attend while Dr. Hering speaks, 
and it was at a breakfast table that he 
enlightened a goodly-sized company on 
this interesting subject of a fresh and 
nourishing food supply. For despite 
all that is said, and trul}^ said, about the 
increased cost of living, so far there is 
no corner on toadstools. But although 
Dr. Hering is one of the most distin- 
guished of Philadelphia's scientists, a 
man whom the University of Pennsyl- 
vania and many other learned and 
scientific bodies have delighted to adorn 
with degrees, yet upon this occasion 
there was an element of opposition to 
his statements that added a piquancy 
to the conversation that his toadstools 
in time may add to our dishes. 

There was an artist joining the guests 
a little late just as the doctor was in the 
middle of a sentence to this effect: 

"Yes, thousands upon thousands of 
tons of nourishing and appetizing food 
are going to waste in our near-by woods 
and lanes and fields simply because 
people are entirely ignorant that it is 
either food, or palatable, or that .... 
"Ah, good morning " to the artist, "I 
have saved you some toadstools as 
promised and they are delicious." 



"Thanks," said the artist as he took 
the proffered dish. He helped himself 
and began to eat while a feelable silence 
fell upon the rest of the company. One 
of the guests, a professor, broke in at 
last as if unable to restrain himself 
longer. 

"Is this a suicide pact, may I ask, 
Doctor? Don't you know that the very 
toadstools you are eating are warranted 
poisonous by the most scientific bodies 
in Berlin?" 

"It is true," replied Dr. Hering, 
"that one of the most scientific bodies in 
Berlin has this very toadstool of which 
I have just eaten upon the poison list 
and the balance of which is already on 
its way to work its effects upon the 
system of our friend here," motioning 
to the artist whose spoon by this time 
rattled upon the bottom of the plate, 
"but the very fact that ignorance and 
error spoke out of the mouths of scien- 
tists and busy-bodies in fields they did 
not truly comprehend, gaining for their 
obiter dicta sl wide hearing because of 
their authority derived in other fields of 
research, is exactly the cause of the 
popular ignorance on the matter today. 
But as our friend here has just shown us, 
faith* can remove toadstools, and he is 
no longer debarred a truly delightful 
food, which is meant for us as truly as 
the manna-fed, earlier people in an ear- 
lier wilderness." 

The doctor had paused while we 
thought over his remarks when the 
bibliophile of the party lisped his little 
lay. 

"I think I read somewhere that there 
are 150 edible varieties of mushrooms 
and toadstools; is that figure correct?" 

"There are over 700 edible varieties," 
replied Dr. Hering; "that fact was 
definitely established by the late Cap- 
tain Charles Mcllvaine, probably the 
278 



"AND TOADSTOOLS, PLEASE" 



279 



greatest mycologist of all, and a man 
whom Philadelphia will always hold in 
honored memory for his original scien- 
tific research. In his book 'One Thou- 
sand American Fungi,' he stated that he 
established beyond question the edibility 
and non-poisonous quality of over 700 
varieties and the test he applied was 
pretty thorough, for he says, 'I have 
eaten them, my family has eaten them, 
my friends have eaten them, and yet they 
are considered poisonous '"...." and 
I have no doubt he applied the test in 
that order," added the Doctor with a 
twinkle. 

"As a matter of fact there are very 
few poisonous ones at all, and the real 
danger is not so much from a poisonous 
one, as from eating an otherwise harm- 
less variety that is over-ripe or decayed. 
There is one variety that is very deadly 
— I mean the one called the Agarious 
Amanita, the name of which you can 
recollect by saying that it is a 'man 
eater.' But of all the varieties of 
mushrooms — ' ' 

" 'Toadstools' you were speaking of," 
broke in the widow. 

"That is a difference of which science 
takes no cognizance," said the Doctor; 
"Toadstools and mushrooms are of the 
same family root, just as white and yel- 
low and black people are of the same 
kind or vine. Which reminds me that 
like grapes the roots of the toadstools, 
as they grow underground, resemble a 
delicate-lace-like white vine that pro- 
duces the mushroom as its fruit, as the 
apple or berry is produced , and it is only 
ignorance, again, that classes toadstools 
among the plants and not among the 
fruits. 

"Now I can explain the popular con- 
ception of the poisonous character of 
these earth fruits. The unhappy gas- 
tronomic revolutions that have been 
ordered by the miinister of the interior 
upon partaking of them is due to the 
fact of their condition being over-ripe 
and decayed, and that they should often 
be so is natural, since they are less 



likely to be disturbed than the variety 
that is generally called the mushroom. 
That itself is liable to give great dis- 
comfort if eaten over-ripe or decayed, 
but the demand for mushrooms, so- 
called, is so regular and their cultivation 
so careful, that as a rule the pickers 
either reward themselves by eating them 
at once, or get their reward by dispatching 
them to the market instantly ; and taking 
the trade all round, great care is used in 
offering for consumption only really 
fresh mushrooms in a perfect state for 
eating. The cause of an ill-effect fol- 
lowing upon eating a dish of mushrooms 
or toadstools, whichever you prefer to 
call them, is due to the formation of a 
deadly poison, called neuron, which ac- 
cording to Robert is formed upon decay 
from the almost harmless alkaloid, called 
choline, which is very prevalent through- 
out the vegetable kingdom. This trans- 
formation of a comparatively harmless 
alkaloid, with which our system can 
easily deal, into an extremely deadly 
one, which will most likely cause our 
eating system to be dealt with, and 
which arises entirely from the uniting 
of decaying matter with oxygen, em- 
phasizes what I have just been saying 
of the absolute necessity of rejecting tor 
table use all specimens that are not 
entirely fresh. This applies equally to 
what you here would call the hannless 
mushroom, or to what I should call the 
harmless toadstool. The time to look 
over them is just before they are cooked 
and to cut off with a small pair of scis- 
sors all the decayed or specked or worm- 
eaten parts. And I may add that if 
you have any need to question the con- 
dition of one, you have no right to eat 
it." 

"When a mushroom is in doubt 
You must sure throw it out," 
the widow interrupted again, " but even 
then you are not safe. I have always 
understood that the only real test, 
whether a mushroom was or was not 
poisonous, is just to eat it; if you die, it 
was poisonous, if you live, it was not." 



280 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



This short cut to wisdom did not 
please the Doctor at all; he had a look 
of disgusted ire as he replied, "That's 
the difference between the scientific 
and the . . . . " 

"Shall we say idiotic?" pleasantly 
cooed the widow. 

"Idiotic," the Doctor bowed his 
thanks for the assistance the privilege 
to use the word had afforded, "idiotic 
way of investigating. If you wish to 
test whether a well is poisonous, you 
do not lower a human being down the 
shaft, you lower a candle. If the candle 
light goes out, you know that a human 
light would go out accordingly. The 
way a scientist tests a toadstool is not to 
cook a dish and, eating the lot, await 
what happens for his informing, but in 
this fashion: He m.etaphorically lowers 
the candle by taking a bit he has broken 
off, about the size of a pin's head, crushes 
it upon his tongue and then spits it out. 
The next day he swallows a piece and, 
suffering no ill-effects, he next day 
swallows a whole one, and still suffering 
no ill effects he then eats a dish of them 
and proclaims that variety worthy to be 
canoned among the '57.' When his 
family, each one of them, eats of the 
variety, until his craving is satisfied, 
the test is com.plete. This was Mcll- 
vaine's method which enabled him to 
say positively that there are 700 vari- 
eties, edible and nourishing. 

"Most tests are useless and such 
methods as boiling with a silver spoon, 
the staining of the spoon indicating 
danger; containing milky or inky juice, 
changing color by immersion in salt- 
water, etc., etc., are quite worthless. 

"This is proved by the fact that the 
deadly Amanita to which I referred be- 
fore will stand every one of the tradi- 
tional popular tests and yet it is al- 
most as poisonous a vegetable as an 
undertaker could praise. 

"There is only one safe way to eat 
mushrooms, and that is to acquire a 
knowledge of the variety you are eating. 
We know all about the field mushroom 



and consequently millions enjoy its 
fruit. We have learned the edible ber- 
ries from the poisonous so that none but 
a very young child would pick the 
poisonous belladonna— nightshade — and 
eat it. So it should be with mushrooms. 
Not to learn the 700 varieties, that is 
too much of a task for busy people, but 
start to learn of 20 or 30, as fibrous ad- 
visers, and the more varieties you learn 
of, the easier becomes the work of 
discrimination. If even this small pro- 
portion of the whole 700 seems a large 
task, learn of six in the green Russula, 
Puff-ball, Pasture-mushroom, Campes- 
tris (meadow-mushroom). Shaggy mane, 
and Boletus edulia, and there you are a 
potential, mycological gourmand at 
once." 

The school teacher now interrupted. 
"It was with the deadly Amanita that 
Lucretia Borgia poisoned most of her 
victims." 

"Well," retorted the doctor, "who 
knows that some learned Lucretia 
Borgia of this day might be planning a 
similar fate for one of us 'who had had 
the misfortune to be in her way! Better 
hurry up and learn those six specimens 
I told you of and reject all others until 
you have studied more of them." 

There is just one point about this 
deadly Amanite that is of interest to 
note — that the Italians eat it in their 
own land because they first boil it in 
vinegar, the acids of which neutralize 
its poisonous alkaloids. A little knowl- 
edge and there is really no need to be 
afraid of confusion between the Amanita 
and the mushroom. Much has been 
said concerning the similarity of itself 
and the puff-ball when small, and the 
amateur might be confused that way. 
But the test is so simple. Cut the 
specimen down through the centre; 
if it is the Amanita, it shows clearly its 
organic structure, the gills and the 
stems perfectly formed showing the 
embryo mushroom, but in the harmless 
and edible variety of puff-ball, the 
inside has an even appearance all the 



'AND TOADSTOOLS, PLEASE" 



281 



way through, looking Hke nougat or 
marshmallow. And because of the dan- 
gerous nature of the Amanite it is worth 
respecting to the extent of the greatest 
possible care in distinguishing from the 
baby puff-ball. 

"And, above all, disbelieve the non- 
sense of mushrooms being indigestible. 
Not only have I never suffered from 
indigestion as a result of eating mush- 
rooms, but sometimes use them to cure 
a slight attack of indigestion. There 
can surely be no greater service to be 
rendered the people today than to give 
them the facts of this great food supply 
within the reach of all of them, for just 
the gathering and the cooking." The 
doctor's glance became speculative: 
"The toadstool growing out of wood may 
be the means of aiding science to prepare 
new foods for us, when the old have 
grown scarce or too expensive. We 
cannot digest wood, yet the mushroom 
is practically transforming wood into 
food for us. It does no work but 



lives like a parasite — a vegetable changes 
inorganic matter to organic matter by 
means of sunlight — but the mushroom 
has no digestion of its own, others have 
to make the blood it lives upon, it 
simply feeds on other plants that have 
done the work of changing the inorganic 
to organic, and thus, when the tree dies, 
the mushroom lives on the material 
that the tree has made available. The 
mushroom changes wood and dead 
leaves, which we cannot eat, into some- 
thing we can eat and digest. Some da}^ 
the chemist will find out how the mush- 
room is doing this without the aid of 
sunlight, and then he too may be able 
to convert wood into good food-stuff." 

"How do you feel now?" asked Dr. 
Hering, turning to the artist. 

"Splendidly well, thank 3^ou — a capi- 
tal breakfast." 

"Tons and tons of good food going to 
waste daily," said the professor to the 
artist as the doctor left the breakfast- 
room. 



Divinity 



The golden sun of the morning, 
When it Hghts up the gardens first. 
Drying the dews of the evening 
And causing the blossoms to burst, 
Fills up the soul with contentment, 
For heaven is near the sod — 
Some call it Nature's Glory, 
While others call it God. 



In the noontide rush of manhood, 
Where each one vies against all, 
Where the struggle for bread is keenest, 
Where some of the bravest fall, 
There comes, in that human maelstrom, 
A beacon within the fog — 
Some people call it Conscience, 
While others call it God. 



The deepening gloom of the evening. 
As it covers this restless land. 
Bringing repose to the weary, 
And staying the tired hand, 
Is the soothing blessing of Nature, 
The end of the path we've trod — 
Some of us call it Darkness, 
While others call it God. 

JoHX Oliver Lewis. 



According to Orders 

A Thanksgiving Story 

By Alice Margaret Ashton 



AND so they were married. 
This is getting the end of the 
story at the very beginning — 
the cart before the horse — so to speak. 

But that is precisely the way it hap- 
pened. There wasn't any beginning. 
It was as if the cart were pushed up in 
front of them and they had chmbed in, 
according to orders. 

In their young ignorance they had 
expected to journey through an en- 
chanted country and along bewitched 
by-paths. In reality they had been 
carried — nowhere . 

Elizabeth Collins was not a docile 
creature, no, no indeed. But she was 
willing to take oath that the first 
sentence ever addressed to her had 
been: "Always do as Aunt Jane tells 
you, dear. Her judgment is perfect, 
and you will never have cause to regret." 
And had not Aunt Jane said: "Climb 
into this cart, my dear child," or — to be 
more exact — 'Tt is the desire of my 
heart that you marry Montgomery 
Dorr." 

Now Elizabeth knew as little about 
love, as did the fluffy ball of a kitten 
curled up in her lap, when Aunt Jane 
made this proposition. So, quite natur- 
ally, she accepted Aunt Jane's version 
and allowed young Dorr to lift her into 
this ill-constructed matrimonial vehicle. 

Montgomery Dorr was not a merce- 
nary young man, far from it. But all 
his life long he had been told: "Better 
listen to Uncle Theron; he's a pretty 
level-headed old chap, and it will be 
worth your while." So when Uncle 
Theron observed in his genial way: 
"If you ever see fit to marry Elizabeth 
Collins, Monty, I'll give you two a 
'setting out' so you'll notice it," the 
young man thought some long thoughts. 
And be it said in his favor that he knew 



no more about love than did Elizabeth. 

Elizabeth was pretty, oh, very lovely 
indeed, and Montgomery felt a glow of 
proud proprietorship when he intro- 
duced her to his friends. Elizabeth 
found herself watching for his tall figure 
or listening for the honk of his motor as 
he drew up to her gate. 

So much for the ignorance and credul- 
ity of youth. Just why two, mature, 
worldly-wise people should conceive 
such a plan probably only heaven and 
themselves can explain. Yet they did 
carry it through successfully, and then 
sat back complacantly awaiting re- 
sults. 

There were no results! 

Elizabeth and Montgomery were not 
wildly happy. Neither did they quar- 
rel. They were not even jealous. 
Elizabeth was sweetly patient as a wife 
should be with her husband's peculiari- 
ties. Montgomery was as chivalrously 
polite as the proverbial model husband. 

"Good gracious," exclaimed Aunt 
Jane at length in exasperation, "do you 
always call your husband, Montgomery, 
Betty?" 

"It is rather long," agreed young Mrs. 
Dorr, still sweetly patient, "but I 
never can think of anything else to 
call him." 

"Good heavens," Uncle Theron ex- 
ploded at about the same time, "why 
don't you children go for a trip, or do 
something?'' 

So, according to orders, they ac- 
complished an extended western trip, 
ending in a month's stay at a delightful 
Southern resort. And in spite of the 
mileage to their credit they still seemed 
to have gone ahead not at all. 

At breakfast one morning Elizabeth 
waited until her husband had finished 
his mail before she observed while 
282 



ACCORDING TO ORDERS 



283 



pouring his coffee, *'Aunt Jane thinks 
we ought to come home for Thanks- 
giving, Montgomery. And Uncle Theron 
has added a postscript that he will send 
the machine on so that we can finish the 
last part of our journey in our own car." 

"Should you like that?" inquired 
Montgomery with his usual careful at- 
tention. 

"It will no doubt be pleasant." 

For a moment the young man scrutin- 
ized his wife thoughtfully. "I have had 
a letter, too; from the fellows I hunted 
big game with in i\frica a year ago. 
They want me to go on an exploring 
trip to South America immediately after 
Thanksgiving." 

"Shall you go?" inquired Elizabeth 
politely interested. Then she was 
shocked at the wave of happiness that 
flooded her. She could go home and 
stay with her mother. And she would 
not need to be always sweetly patient! 

"What do you think about it?" he 
asked, with an eagerness he was not 
himself conscious of soon enough for 
concealment. 

"He wants to go," Elizabeth told her- 
self with a mental gasp. Aloud she 
said: "I see no reason for your missing 
the opportunity, if you care about it." 

"She's glad for a chance to be alone 
once more," Montgomery decided a 
little grimly. "Well, I have until 
Thanksgiving day for a final decision," 
he told her. 

So, according to orders, they packed 
and proceeded to their last stopping 
place, where they found their car await- 
ing them. It had been a silent jotimey, 
each too absorbed in his own thoughts 
to be either polite or sweetly patient. 
Just at its close they had decided that 
Montgomery ought not to miss such an 
excellent opportunity for the exploring 
which he loved. "I can wire them 
Thanksgiving morning," he explained. 
They will get my outfit together for me, 
and I can have Thanksgiving at home. 
You are very generous, Elizabeth, to 
offer no objections." 



And then they were silent once more. 
Yes, it almost looked as if they were 
backing away from the enchanted 
country ! 

Perhaps the man dimly sensed and 
resented this. When the luggage had 
been disposed of and they were ready 
for the start, he turned to his wife with 
a tone that was not polite but rather 
impetuous and pleading: "Let's send 
the man on with your maid and take 
the car home ourselves." 

"Yes, do," she agreed with unusual 
animation. 

Now that she need no longer play the 
role of model wife, Elizabeth's spirits 
rose precipitately. The long sweep of 
the wind, the occasional flurry of snow- 
flakes exhilarated her. 

"Cold?" he inquired, when they had 
been several hours on their journey, 
the smile which had lingered in re- 
sponse to her bright look leaving his 
face as he glanced at the lowering 
heavens and the stretch of lonely 
country. 

"I have been warmer," she admitted 
cheerfully. 

"Here, let me get \'0U another rug." 
He brought the car to a standstill while 
he enfolded her in the extra wrappings. 

"Arctic explorers in the far north," 
she called from the midst of her furs 
and blankets. 

"Now for getting you to a place where 
you will not freeze to death," he mut- 
tered, glad, contrary to all precedent, 
that for once she had failed to express 
thanks for an evidence of his care. 

The snow flurries increased in fre- 
quency and fury. Houses were dis- 
pairingly scattering and markedly dis- 
concerting in appearance. Grimly he 
urged the big motor ahead with such 
speed as he could muster. "Land of 
midnight sun and perpetual snow," she 
suggested as the early darkness and the 
snow seemed to close in upon them. 

"I ought to be shot for sending the 
man away," he announced presently. 

"You can do am^thing he could," 



284 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



defended Elizabeth warmly. "As it is, 
we have only ourselves to think for — 
if he were here, we'd have to think for 
him, too. There must be a house some- 
where near." 

"You're a good little sport," he told 
her. Adding soberly, "But we may 
stop before we find the house." 

A few rods further the car plowed its 
way valiantly, then slowly came to a 
protesting standstill. "Now what do 
you know about that?" He hoped his 
smile covered his dismay. 

"I know there is a dark object just 
ahead at the right, which must be a 
building," she answered. "And that 
will mean shelter." 

For a moment he endeavored to 
penetrate the gloom which wrapped 
them about. "There is a smaller build- 
ing at our left, see?" he pointed out. 
"That may be a house. Are you afraid 
to stay here while I go and investigate?" 

"Of course not." 

"You are a good little sport," he re- 
iterated, tucking her in snugly. 

Assuredly it was a house which Mont- 
gomery Dorr was approaching. After 
some little difficulty he located a small 
porch and rapped loudly on the door. 

At his second rapping, a voice sounded 
within and he pushed open the door. 
"That you, Mr. Cooley?" someone 
called. "Thank goodness you have 
come! I've laid here in a heap until I 
'most perished with cold and discom- 
fort." 

"I fear you are mistaken, madam," and 
Montgomery backed away hastily. "I 
am stalled out here in the snow with my 
car. I thought we might find shelter." 

"Is there a woman with you?" The 
voice was unmistakably eager. 

"There is only my wife. I'll have to 
get on with her to the next place. I will 
send back help for you." 

"Oh, the poor thing, is she sick, too? 
Well, I'll try to be patient. But it's 
most a mile to Cooley's. Give me the 
cushion and blanket from that chair 
before you go." 



Impatiently he flung the desired 
articles to the woman on the rug. 
Then he slammed the door . shut and 
hastened back to Elizabeth. 

"We've got to get on to the next 
place," he stated briefly. "There is no 
one here except a sick woman. It is a 
mile — we can send back help to her." 

"Leave a sick woman alone in this 
storm? I'm going to stay while you go 
for help." 

"Elizabeth, you do not know what 
you are saying!" He spoke sternly to 
her for the first time in their experience. 
"There is no fire. I'll never leave you 
in a place like that." 

"I'm going in to see. ' ' She flung av/ay 
her rugs and prepared to step out into 
the snow. "Oh, Monty, you cannot 
carry me through all these drifts and in 
this enormous coat!" 

"You are not going to walk," he 
stated savagely, starting up the drifted 
path with his burden, 

"Explorer carried away by polar 
bear," she explained humorously. 

But Monty did not laugh. He stood 
gloomily in the windy little porch and 
groaned at the precious moments they 
were loosing. 

Presently she came out, an eager, 
starry-eyed Elizabeth, quite new to 
him. "We mustn't leave her alone*, 
dear," she remonstrated. "It will take 
so little to make her comfortable. We 
cannot get further, anyway. She says 
you can get the car into a shed in the 
lee of the barn. And then come in and 
make us a fire. 

"Only think, she hurt her ankle — 
it is merely a bad sprain — at the barn, 
and she crawled all the way back. 
Say we may stay, Monty." 

"It is no place for you," he insisted 
stubbornly. 

"Any port in a storm, you know," 
she reminded him. "Besides, explorers 
always take refuge with the natives." 

He hesitated. It was the first time 
she had ever begged anything of him, 
and he had not believed she could pro- 



ACCORDING TO ORDERS 



285 



duce such weakness in him. "But I 
always abhorred men who give in to 
their wives against their better judg- 
ment," he informed her. 

"So do I abhor a bear as companion. 
I so much prefer a nice, cheerful ex- 
plorer who isn't afraid of natives — 
such a grey, little, kind-hearted native, 
too, Monty, dear." 

He did go at that, with rather poor 
grace, to get the machine under shelter 
while it could yet be moved. 

When he returned to the house he was 
amazed to find his wife managing the 
situation with capability and evident 
delight. "Play up," she blazed at him 
with pretended fierceness, drawing him 
into the icy woodshed out of earshot of 
the injured woman who was now sigh- 
ing with content in her comfortable 
bed. "I've built the fire. And put her 
to bed. And bathed her ankle. And 
I've told her you will feed the horse and 
milk the cow and — " 

"I like your nerve," interrupted 
Montgomery, with a gentleness that was 
the height of sarcasm with him. 

"Can you milk?" she anxiously de- 
manded. 

"I can try." 

"Oh, you must do it somehow. I 
have made her think we are smart, 
capable people. She doesn't dream we 
are the kind of folks who must sit round 
and depend upon other people to wait on 
us." 

"Beware of deception," he warned 
solemnly. 

"Don't you know that explorers al- 
ways have to make the natives believe 
they are smarter than they are? Monty, 
you are a selfish thing. You want to go 
off to South America and have an ador- 
able time and you begrudge me this 
nice little adventure into the unknown. 
I'm — I'm sick of sitting on a cushion and 
eating cake — according to orders!" 

With the briefest start of astonish- 
ment, he lifted her clear of the draughty 
floor. "You poor little kid," he whis- 
pered. "You bet I'll milk the reindeer, 



if you will cook the walrus meat! But, 
if you are determined to explore in the 
far north, ^^ou're going to take proper 
precautions — out of this icy hole with 
you." And he deposited her beside the 
kitchen stove which was by this time 
throwing out a glow of gratifying 
warmth. 

"Isn't it fortunate we found shelter?" 
Elizabeth shivered as in the darkness of 
the night the wind tore at the loose 
windows of their room. "I think ex- 
ploring is perfectly charming, Monty. 
I've already made astonishing discov- 
eries — that dread beforehand is the 
worst thing about taking care of the 
injured, that it's fun to get supper for 
a hungry man, and that my husband is 
an accomplished agriculturist!" 

"I've found out a few things, also," 
Monty answered, a queer note sounding 
in his voice. "You'd better go to sleep, 
honey, we are liable to have a hard day 
tomorrow." 

For what the morrow brought, how- 
ever, Monty was certainly unprepared. 
Snow still sifted steadily from the thick, 
grey sky. The roads grew increasingly 
impassable. The telephone beside the 
sitting-room mantle tinkled uselessly. 
"An explorer's Thanksgiving, all right 
enough," he muttered, peering glumly 
down the snow-filled road after an early 
yet extremely satisfying breakfast. 

"That is something I've never had 
before," Elizabeth observed brightly, 
"and I mean to make the most of this. 
You'll have to bring in a lot of wood, 
Monty, for I mean to do just heaps of 
cooking. And I do wish you would 
crack some of the nuts you'll find in the 
woodhouse chamber — I always hit my 
fingers so dreadfully!" 

Montgomery laughed as he mounted 
into the chilly region designated. In 
fact, he found himself laughing with 
rather amazing frequency and in a 
whole-hearted manner not peculiar to 
him of recent days. 

He cracked a great bowl of nuts, 
(Concluded on page 320) 



286 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

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THE KITCHEN SANITARY 

TF any one qualification is demanded 
-*■ of a kitchen, it is that of sanitary 
fitness and cleanliness. The kitchens 
of today are manifestly greatly improved 
over those of a century ago when 
earthen floors and back-breaking 
hearths were still in use. The modern 
kitchen, with white or tinted walls, 
cabinet range, enameled ware and 
aluminum pots and pans is somewhat 
of a marvel in utility and attractive- 
ness. It is indicative of the great_ad- 



vancement the world has made in 
science and art; for herein beauty in 
design and form has become intimately 
connected with usefulness. 

From walls to equipment, the modern 
kitchen certainly is a subject of no little 
curiosity and wonder. Elizabeth, queen 
of England, in her draughty halls and 
damp living-room, in her noisome din- 
ing-room and kitchen no less unsanitary, 
w^as not so well provided for as the 
humble housewife of today in her tidy, 
wholesome, and beautiful little cabinet- 
kitchen, — a model of convenience, a 
representative production of an age of 
progress and attainment. For in fact, 
all that science and art have contributed 
to make life more comfortable and de- 
sirable finds expression in that part of 
the house which is as vital to prosperity 
as the stomach to the body. The 
kitchens of today, as well as factory 
and office, bear marks of progress, for 
in them are not the production of the 
finest shops to be seen? 

Truly the up-to-date kitchen is not 
only convenient but also wholesome 
and beautiful. In such a work-room 
the housewife should find in her daily 
routine something of real privilege and 
pleasure. E. M. W. 

A QUESTION. 

IT is said that no one should 
speak much unless he has something 
to say, that is a call to teach, or a 
message to deliver. Of idle speaking, 
sure there is no good report. At any 
rate, thought and consideration must 
precede speech. And at present the 
thoughts of an intelligent, reading people 
are constrained to dwell upon a con- 
tinental war and its consequences. But 
we are neutrals and have been warned 
to be discreet in word and deed, — an 
attitude it seems, that satisfies nobody 
and stultifies self. How long are we 
to be allowed even to think, save under 
censorship? Are we not losing our 
own self-respect as well as the respect 
of mankind? 



EDITORIALS 



287 



Again, it^is said, international law 
has been wiped off the programme of 
international conduct; nothing like 
law is left unviolated. Is anything 
like right, justice or moral principle 
left on earth? When this war broke 
out, it seemed to us that a great 
moral principle was .involved — right 
and justice on the one hand, error and 
wrong on the other. We thought 
the religious press and the accepted 
teachers of manners and morals, at 
least, had an opportunity to speak 
openly and frankly. Surely they would 
not fail to avail of the occasion- and 
dilate upon the importance of moral 
principles and the world-wide observ- 
ance of the same. Have these agents 
made good use of their opportunities, 
or have they evaded and neglected 
them? The ideals of conduct and 
character can not be gainsaid. "Once 
to every man and nation comes the 
question to decide. . . . betwixt the 
good and evil side." 

THE ASCETIC MOTIVE 

THE notion that pleasure in itself 
is sinful and pain virtuous has 
held extensive sway over the human 
mind. You meet with it again and 
again in discussions of the European 
war. Because the belligerent nations 
are suffering fearfully and the United 
States is at ease, there is a pious as- 
sumption that they are in a far higher 
state of grace — or rather, that our 
ability to move about free and secure 
in pursuit of three square meals a day 
constitutes a totally graceless state of 
mere piggish materialism. 

Probably not a German, an Austrian, 
a Frenchman, a Russian, an English- 
man or an Italian will be in any re- 
spect — spiritual, intellectual or ma- 
terial — better off at the end of the war 
than he was at the beginning, no matter 
how the war ends; but it is held that, 
having suffered a great deal to no pur- 
pose, they are on a higher plane. 

A little reflection, however, will show 



that, if suffering in itself is the means of 
grace, we are at no disadvantage as 
compared with Europe. Anybody can 
step into his own back yard, dig him- 
self a muddy trench and squat in it all 
day, occasionally heaving up a brick- 
bat in such manner that in descending 
it is likely to impinge on his cranium. 
With even less pains, he can have all the 
privation, misery and danger he desires. 
The United States is infinitely far from 
bankrupt in those commodities. 

When men's readiness to suffer is 
drafted on out of mere pointless bungling 
— which has been the state of Europe 
since August, 1914 — we consider that 
about as low a human condition as 
could be found. — Saturday Evening Post. 

THE WORLD SHOULD SLOW 
DOWN 

THE world has lost its silence. 
That's the trouble with it. By 
silence we mean, of course, a sense of 
leisure. That surely is gone. The 
lamps are no longer lit on quiet. Every 
minute is packed with noise or action. 
The phonograph, the "movie," the auto- 
mobile mean always something to hear, 
something to see, somewhere to go. 
That is the constituency the modern 
artist addresses. It has developed in 
him a new technique, a spur-of-the- 
moment style. Were a Dickens here to- 
day, who would listen to him ? Certainly 
people of professed culture would not. 
They no longer read Dickens. Thack- 
eray grows tiresome with the years. 
Trollope, whose fiction surely was en- 
gaging, is a dead letter. If a publisher 
announced an edition of Hawthorne 
today his competitors would grin. We 
who have more time than ever really 
have less time than ever. The song in 
that forgotten opera of a few years ago, 
*T want what I want when I want it," 
hits us off to a T. We are votaries of the 
now. The present instant is our shrine. 
Speed up is the watchword. Culture, 
unfortunately, has become a cheapened 
word, but far more unfortunate is it 



288 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



that the fact of culture itself is threat- 
ened. For culture in its real sense, we 
take it, means thoroughness. "God is 
never in a hurry," said one of the Pil- 
grim fathers. It is the world's foolish, 
barbarous haste that is making it un- 
godly. Slow down. — St. Louis Republic. 

STORY OF THE "BLUE POINTS" 
AND OTHERS 

LONDON may pride herself upon 
her "Whitstable" or "Colchester 
Natives," but to the American there is 
no oyster like the "blue point." Even 
though in too many instances he often 
gets an oyster which is far removed 
from any of the kith and kin of Blue 
Point, Great South Bay, and bears no 
more relation to them than the label, 
"Blue Points," by which some dealers 
merely indicate a small-sized oyster 
suitable for serving on the half -shell. 

It has been estimated that at Pike 
Street and Easter River, New York, 
where the dealers have their stations, 
about two million bushels of oysters 
pass through every year on their way 
to different centers of distribution — 
about 260,000 bushels remaining for 
consumption. 

Natural bi-valves were once common 
enough in New York market, but the 
enormous demand for oysters, especially 
in New York, where they are preferred 
in the raw state, has brought about an 
oyster farming system as elaborate and 
scientific as any truck-cultivation on land. 

There are three principal stages 
through which the popular shell fish 
has to pass before it is marketed. It has 
to germinate in the "seed bed," then 
mature in the "growing bed," and then 
be perfected in the "market bed." 

The oyster grower has many worries, 
but the principal ones are concerned 
with the "seed bed" and "setting" of 
the spawn. He sows his "beds" thickly 
with empty oyster shells so that the 
spawn or seed may find something on 
which to set, and a shell is the best 



thing possible. Though the seed will 
attach itself to anything firm so long 
as this is not slimy. 

The empty shells are deposited in the 
oyster beds about the middle of June. 
Then the oyster men wait impatiently 
and anxiously for twenty days or so be- 
fore beginning to look for the "set" or 
spawn attached to the shells. In Long 
Island Sound alone, from Greenwich, 
Connecticut, to the Connecticut River, 
over 2,000,000 bushels of shells are put 
into the water beds. 

A good or a poor "set" means pros- 
perity or bad times to the oyster farmer. 

If the shells reveal little reddish 
specks attached to them here and there 
— and the thicker the better — the grower 
knows he will have a • good season. 
But if the shells are unspotted, he thinks 
of the hard times coming. 

With a good "set" the oyster shell is 
spotted from end to end, and becomes 
crowded with the spawn, as time goes 
on. As soon as the oysterlettes begin 
to develop they are dredged up from 
the beds, and transplanted to others, 
where there is abundance of room for 
growth. 

After they have been in the " growing 
bed" for about three years or so, they 
are dredged up again, and transplanted, 
this time to the maturing or "market 
bed." Here they remain for about two 
years, before arriving at maturity for 
consumption. 

New York is most essentially the 
center of the oyster trade. The greater 
part of the celebrated Lynnhavens and 
Saddlerocks, served in Baltimore and 
other cities South, are sent there from 
New York, which has the most enviable 
reputation, not only for the excellence 
of its oyster farms but for their healthy 
condition as well. 

Over Princes Bay — from whence 
comes the bulk of the bi-valves — and 
over the remaining culture bases, the 
Board of Health exercises a very sharp 
and onmipresent eye and arm. A. T. 




CHICKEN PIE, CASSEROLE STYLE 

Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. ^Vhere flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful i« 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



Bacon Canapes 

Cut bread in circles two inches and 
one-half in diameter, saute in bacon fat 
on both sides until well-browned, and 
drain on soft paper. Spread with 
creamed butter mixed with a little 
mustard. Have ready short slices of 
choice, tender bacon, cut exceedingly 
thin, rolled and fastened with a wooden 
toothpick and fried crisp (but light 
colored) in deep fat. Drain on soft 
paper; set one on each round of toast. 
Press into the space around the bacon 
fine-chopped olives or pimientos, or both. 

Bacon Canapes No. 2 

Prepare the bread and spread with the 
butter as above; cook bacon until very 
crisp, but keep it light colored; chop 
exceedingly fine, then pound with a 
pestle; mix with chopped pimiento 
and olives and press upon the bread. 
Finish with a thin slice of hard-cooked 
egg in the center. 



Corn Soup 

Scald five cups of milk with one onion 
cut in halves and two stalks of celery. 
Pick out the onion and celery, after 
twenty minutes, and add one cup and a 
half of corn pulp. Melt one-fourth a cup 
of butter; in it cook one-fourth a cup of 
flour, half a teaspoonful of pepper and 
one teaspoonful and a half of salt; add 
two cups of well-seasoned chicken broth 
and stir until boiling, then add to the 
milk preparation. Serve in soup plates 
with a few kernels of popped corn 
sprinkled on the top of each plate. This 
may be made with kornlet or with canned 
com; made with kornlet, the soup need 
not be strained; made with ordinary 
corn, use a can of corn, chopped fine 
and strain the soup. 

Chicken Pie, Casserole Style 

Separate a young chicken into pieces 
at the joints; wash, wipe, roll in flour 
and let cook in salt pork fat, first on 



289 



290 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




EGG POACHED UNDER GLASS BELL 

one side and then on the other, until a 
golden brown. Set into a casserole; 
add boiling water and salt and pepper 
as needed. Cover and let cook until 
nearly tender; have ready, for each 
service, a small onion, two slices of 
carrot, and four or five potato balls, 
cut out with a French cutter. Parboil 
all the vegetables, the onions half an 
hour, the others about ten minutes, 
drain, rinse in cold water, dry on a 
cloth and let cook in the frying pan 
where the chicken was browned until 
well colored, then add to the casserole; 
pour a little boiling water into the frying 
pan and let simmer until the browned 
juices of the chicken and vegetables 
are dissolved, then pour this into the 
casserole. Have ready a rich biscuit 
crust or a round of flaky pastry the 
size of the top of the casserole; set this 
over the contents of the casserole, to 



rest on the edge of it, and return the 
casserole to the oven. The dish should 
be ready to serve in about twent\^ min- 
utes. 

Flaky Pastry for Chicken Pie 

2 1 cups pastry flour ; f cup shortening 

1 teaspoonful baking Cold water (about ^ 

powder cup) 

^ teaspoonful salt ; J cup butter, creamed 

Sift together the flour, baking powder 
and salt; with two knives cut in the 
shortening, then add cold water gradu- 
ally while mixing to a paste; knead the 
paste slightly and roll into a thin sheet; 
spread one-half the paste with part of 
the butter, fold the other half over it; 
spread half of this paste with butter and 
again fold; repeat a third time; pat and 
roll into a long strip, fold three times, 
then roll to fit the dish. Use the trim- 
mings in cutting out ornaments; brush 
the under side of these with cold water 
and set upon the paste in symmetrical 
order. 

Egg Poached Under Glass Bell 

Set a round of toast on a ramekin, 
sprinkle it \^'ith salt and spread it with 
butter; above the toast break a fresh 
egg; pour on one or two tablespoonfuls 
of hot cream; cover with a glass bell; 
pour one or two tablespoonfuls of hot 
cream around the bell and let stand in 
the oven until the egg is cooked as de- 
sired. Instead of cream, two or three 
thin slices of ripe tomato, seasoned with 




STEWED CHICKEX, WITH CAULIFLOWER 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



291 



salt and pepper, may be laid on the 
toast before the egg is broken upon it. 
Or a tomato hollowed out to form a case 
may be set upon the toast and the egg 
broken into it. The toast may be 
omitted in this latter case if desired. 

Stewed Chicken with Cauliflower 

Cut a chicken in pieces as for a 
fricassee, wash, cover with boiling water, 
heat to the boiling point and, aftei five 
minutes' boiling, let simmer until tender. 
Separate a cauliflower into flowerets, 
cover with boiling, salted water and let 
cook until tender. Cook also about a 
dozen slices of carrot until tender. 
Dispose the chicken on a serving dish, 
the flowerets of cauliflower and carrot 



case. Sprinkle the inside of each with 
a little salt. Mix together one cup of 
chopped ham (cooked), one cup of fine, 
soft bread crumbs, one-fourth a cup of 
melted butter, half a teaspoonful of 
paprika, one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt, one tablespoonful of fine-chopped 
parsley, or half a teaspoonful of parsley 
flavor, and the onion that was .-emoved, 
first chopped not too fine. Use this 
mixture to fill the space in the onions, 
rounding it up well. Pour a cup of 
thin cream or rich milk around the 
onions and let cook in the oven about 
twenty-five minutes, basting two or 
three times with the liquid in the dish. 
Mix three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter with three-fourths a cup of 




OXIOXS STUFFED WITH HAM 



slices around the chicken. Skim from 
the broth about one-fourth a cup of 
fat; in it cook one-fourth a cup of 
flour and half a teaspoonful, each, of 
salt and black pepper, then add half 
a cup of cream and a cup and a half of 
the chicken broth and stir until boiling; 
beat the yolk of an egg, add a teaspoon- 
ful of lemon juice and stir into the 
sauce; pour the sauce over the chicken 
and vegetables and serve at once. 

Onions Stuffed with Ham 

Peel eight good-sized onions, cover 
with boiling water and let cook until 
nearly tender; drain, rinse in cold water 
and drain again. Cut out the center 
of each onion to leave a thin-walled 



cracker crumbs and spread over the 
mixture in the onions. Return the 
dish to the oven to brown the crumbs. 
Serve from the baking dish. 

Plain Bread Dressing 

Mix together the bread, butter, salt, 
pepper and half the quantity of th^^me 
and marjoram given below. 

Green Stuffing for Roast Chicken 

Mix together two cups of soft bread 
crumbs, one-half a cup of melted butter, 
the grated rind of a lemon, one-fourth 
a cup of fine-chopped parsley, a tea- 
spoonful of fine-crushed thyme and 
marjoram, one-half a teaspoonful, each, 
of salt and pepper, two tablespoonfuls 



292 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of fine-chopped, green pepper and if 
desired about a tablespoonful of scraped 
onion pulp. 

Sliced Tongue with Mayonnaise 
of Kohl Rabi and Cauliflower 

Cut a cold, boiled, pickled tongue in 
thin slices; dispose these, in a wreath 
or crown shape, in the center of a serv- 
ing dish, and surround with kohl rabi, 
hollowed out to form cups, each holding 
a floweret of cauliflower covered with 
a spoonful of mayonnaise dressing made 
with a little mustard. Garnish with 
heart-leaves of lettuce. The cauli- 
flower and kohl rabi, cooked tender and 
chilled, should be marinated with French 
dressing an hour or more before using. 



ingredients in the water and pour over 
the meat; let any undissolved salt He on 
the top of the meat ; cover closely and set 
aside in the refrigerator or other cool 
place. Cook- in three or four days or 
keep until Salter. 

Summer Squash Stuffed and 
Baked with Bacon 

Boil two young and tender summer 
squash until nearly done. Cut out a 
piece from the top of one for a cover, 
then remove the pulp from the center 
to leave a thin shell; remove the rind 
from the second squash and any coarse 
seeds present in either. Mash the 
pared squash and the pulp of the other, 
season with salt, pepper and a little 




SLICED TONGUE, WITH MAYONNAISE OF KOHL RABI AND CAULIFLOWER 



Before cooking the kohl rabi, cut off 
the lower half of each, which is tough 
late in the season, and pare with a 
fluted knife. When cooked tender cut 
out the center and proceed as above. 

Pickled Beef Tongue and Flank 

Wash the tongue thoroughly, wipe 
the meat, put them into a dish that 
may be covered and pour on cold water 
to cover well the meat. Pour off the 
water and measure it. For each gallon 
of water, needed to cover the meat, take 
one quart of salt, one ounce of salt- 
petre and half a cup of brown sugar. 
Rub part of the salt into the meat; dis- 
solve the rest of the salt with the other 



butter, then use to fill the shell; lay 
two pieces of bacon across the squash 
in the shell and let bake until the bacon 
is done. Meantime roll four or five 
slices of bacon, and run a wooden 
toothpick through each; let cook in a 
dish of hot, deep fat until done, then 
serve around the squash. Keep the 
cover hot and set it in place on the 
squash before sending the dish to the 
table. If preferred, the squash may be 
baked in an earthen or glass dish, with 
all the bacon laid over the top. 

Creamed Cauliflower Au Gratin 

For a small cauliflower large enough to 
serve four people, make a cup of white 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



293 




SUMMER SQUASH, STUFFED AND BAKED WITH BACON 



sauce of two tablespoonfuls, each, of 
butter and flour, one-fourth a teaspoon- 
ful, each, of salt and pepper and one cup 
of rich milk. Separate the flowerets 
of the cooked cauliflower from the main 
stalk and set them in a baking dish 
suitable for the table; pour over the 
cream sauce, sprinkle half a cup of 
cracker crumbs mixed with two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter over the 
whole and set into the oven to remain 
until the dish is hot throughout and the 
•crumbs are browned. 

When this is to be used as the sub- 
stantial dish of the luncheon or sup- 
per, stir from one-fourth to one-half 
a cup of grated cheese through the 
sauce. 

Oyster Salad 

Pour one cup of cold water over one 
quart of oysters and look at each oyster 
carefully to remove pieces of shell if 
present. Strain the liquid through 
cheese cloth, add the ovsters and heat 



quickly to the boiling point; let boil 
vigorously two minutes; remove from 
the fire, drain and let chill. Cut fine 
as much tender white celery as will equal 
the bulk of the oysters. When ready 
to serve mix the celery and oysters with 
enough mayonnaise to bind the whole 
together. Serve on crisp heart -leaves of 
lettuce. Garnish with pimientos, cut in 
figures, or with tiny cucumber pickles, 
cut in thin slices and spread like a fan. 
The oysters may be left whole or cut in 
halves. 

Celery-and- Apple Salad 

Pare, quarter and core choice apples, 
cut them in small cubes and immediately 
squeeze over them (one pint) the 
juice of a large lemon. Add an equal 
measure of crisp, inner stalks of celery, 
cut in one-fourth-inch slices. Mix the 
apple and celery with enough mayon- 
naise dressing to moisten (it., will take 
about one cup and a half). Serve in 
hearts of lettuce. 




CREAMED CAULIFLOWER AU GRATIN 



294 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Potato Puffs (Miss Shea) 

Beat three eggs, without separating 
the whites and yolks, until very light; 
gradually beat in two cups of mashed 
potato (hot or cold) and, finally, beat 
in one cup of sifted flour, sifted again 
with two level teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder and one teaspoonful of salt. 
Drop, by the teaspoonful into hot fat; 
let cook to a golden brown color, turning 
often; drain on soft paper. Serve with 
or without meat or fish. 

Sweet Potato Pie 

Press hot, cooked sweet potato through 
a sieve to make a cup and a half; add, 
in the order given, three tablespoonfuls 
butter, one cup and a fourth of sugar. 



and one-fourth a cup of sliced citron, 
and let cook to a marmalade. Turn 
into a plate lined with flaky pastry and 
bake until pastry is done. Cover with 
a meringue made of the whites of two 
eggs, beaten dry, and one-fourth a cup 
of granulated sugar, beaten in gradually. 
Let bake in a very moderate oven until 
colored delicately. 

Mock Cherry Turnovers 

Cut rounds about six inches in diam- 
eter from flaky pastry (see flaky pastry 
for chicken pie). Chop together one 
cup of cranberries and half a cup of 
large seeded raisins; mix together one 
cup of sugar, two level tablespoonfuls of 
flour and one-fourth a teaspoonful of 
salt; pour half a cup of boiling water 




POTATO PUFFS 



half a teaspoonful, each, of salt, cin- 
namon and mace, the beaten yolks of 
three eggs, the whites of three eggs 
beaten very light, two cups of rich 
milk and one-fourth a cup of double 
cream. Mix all together thoroughly 
and bake in a large deep plate lined with 
pastry until firm in the center. The 
proportions given above are just right 
for a glass pie-plate of the usual size. 

Quince Pie 

Pare, quarter, core and slice one pound 
of quinces — (nearly four cups, sliced) 
and let cook in a little boiling water 
until tender; add two cups of sugar, 
grated rind and juice of one lemon, half 
a cup of chopped (blanched) almonds 



over the fruit and when again boiling 
stir in the dry ingredients; add a 
teaspoonful of butter and let cook until 
thick and boiling. Let cool a little, 
then set a large tablespoonful of the 
mixture on one side of each round of 
paste, brush the edge with cold water 
and cut two or three slits in the other 
side of each round, then turn this side 
over the fruit and press the edges to- 
gether closely. Brush over with cold 
water, dredge with granulated sugar and 
let bake about fifteen minutes. 

Sweet Potato Biscuit 

Break one cake and a half of yeast 
into one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water, 
mix thoroughly and add to one cup of 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



295 




THANKSGIVING PUDDING 



scalded-and-cooled milk with one cup 
of cooked sweet potato, pressed through 
a sieve, one-third a cup of melted butter, 
one-third a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful 
of salt and flour for a soft dough. Mix 
all together thoroughly. Knead until 
smooth and elastic, then cover and set 
aside to become doubled in bulk. Shape 
i into small balls and set into a buttered 
I pan to become very light. Bake about 
half an hour. 

I Thanksgiving Pudding 

Beat the yolks of four eggs; add one 

pint of soft bread crumbs, one cup of 

sugar, the grated rind of a lemon, one 

teaspoonful of salt, and one cup of 

large table raisins from which the seeds 

• have been removed; mix all together 

' thoroughly, then add one quart of rich 

milk. Bake in a very moderate oven 

I until firm in the center. When the 



pudding has cooled somewhat, beat the 
whites of four eggs dry; beat in half a 
cup of sugar and spread or pipe the 
meringue over the pudding; dredge with 
granulated sugar and let cook in a very 
moderate oven about fifteen minutes; 
the oven should be of such heat that the 
meringue does not color until the last 
few minutes of cooking. 

Thanksgiving Yeast Doughnuts 

Mix a yeast cake and a half through 
one-fourth a cup of lukewarm water, 
then stir in enough bread flour to make 
a dough; knead the little ball of dough 
until smooth and elastic, then drop it 
into a bowl of lukewarm water. In a 
mixing bowl beat two eggs until very 
light; add three-fourths a cup of grated 
maple sugar, half a teaspoonful of mace 
or nutmeg, one teaspoonful of salt, one 
cup of scalded-and-cooled milk, one- 




YEAST DOUGHNUTS, MARMALADE. COTTAGE CHEESE 



296 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




FROZEN CUSTARD 

third a cup of melted shortening and 
the ball of sponge without any of the 
water; mix all together, then stir in 
bread flour to make a soft dough. 
Knead until smooth and elastic, then 
set to rise in a buttered bowl and out of 
draughts. When doubled in bulk, turn 
on to a lightly floured board and roll 
into a sheet half an inch thick; cut in 
strips nearly an inch wide, and stretch, 
twist and shape like the figure 8. When 
again light, fry in deep fat. Yeast 
doughnuts require longer cooking than 
those made ready more quickly and the 
fat must not be too hot. 

Cottage Cheese 

Let about three quarts of milk stand, 
covered, in a warm place until it thick- 
ens, and begins to separate; turn into 
a cloth bag and let drain overnight or 
some hours. Turn the curd into a bowl, 
add a scant half-teaspoonful of salt and 
nearly half a cup of thick cream and 
mix together thoroughly. Line an 



earthen bowl, holding a cup and a half 
or more, with two narrow strips of 
parchment paper and pack the cheese 
into the bowl; let stand in a cool place 
to chill. 

Frozen Custard 

Scald three cups of whole milk and 
one cup of cream; beat the yolks of six 
eggs; add half a teaspoonful of salt and 
one cup and a fourth of sugar and beat 
again; pour on some of the hot milk, 
mix thoroughly and return to the rest 
of the milk; stir and cook until the 
froth is gone and the spoon coated 
slightly; strain at once into the can of 
the freezer., set in cold water, and stir 
until beginning to cool. When cold 
add a tablespoonful of vanilla and freeze. 
Serve in cups with dry macaroons, rolled 
and sifted, sprinkled over the top. 

Goodwins 

Beat a scant half -cup of butter to a 
cream; gradually beat in two cups of 
sugar, then add, alternately, one cup of 
milk and two cups of sifted flour, sifted 
again with two level teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder; lastly, beat in the whites 
of six eggs, beaten light, with a few 
grains of cream of tartar. Bake in 
small timbale molds. When baked and 
cooled, cut out a round from the center 
of the top and pick out some of the 
crumb to leave little cases. Cut fresh 
(Continued on page 324) 




GOODWINS, BEFORE AND AFTER ICING. FONDANT DIPPED BONBONS. 
FONDANT COVERED TO STORE. 



M 



enus 



for One Week in November 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 
Broiled Bacon and Sweet Potatoes 

Swedish Tea Ring (reheated) 

Orange-and- Pineapple Marlamade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Stewed Chicken, with Cau iflower 
Cranberry Sauce 
Boiled Rice Celery- 
Steamed Graham Pudding, Hard Sauce 

Supper 

Macaroni Croquettes, Cheese Sauce 

Apple Sauce 

Gingersnaps 

Tea 



Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Fresh Fish Cakes 

New Pickles 

Baking Powder Biscuit, Toasted 

Coffee 

Luncheon 

Succotash 

Apple-and-Celery Salad 

Quick Yeast Biscuit 

Tea 

Dinner 

Rib Roast of Beef Franconia Potatoes 

Egg Plant, Creole Style 

French Endive, Thousand Islands Dressing 

SHced Canned Pineapple 

Sponge Drops Half Cups Coffee 





Breakfast 


Breakfast 






Sausage, Fried Bananas 


Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 






Breakfast Com Cake 


Cold Boiled Tongue, Shced Thin 






Toast 


Brown Hashed Potatoes 






Coffee Cocoa 


Sliced Tomatoes, Breaded and Baked Toast 
Coffee 






Luncheon 






> 


Hashed Chicken on Toast 


Luncheon 


S 


< 


Crabapple Jelly 


Onions Stuffed with Tongue 





Q 


Rice Pudding, with Raisins 


Rye Bread and Butter 


^ 


2 

C 




Pickled Beets 


w 
O 
> 


Dinner 


Thanksgiving Pudding 




Chicken-and-Tomato Soup 


^^ Dinner 


Kj 




Browned Crackers 






Breaded Lamb Chops, Baked 


Cream of Komlet Soup 






Baked Potatoes 


Cold Roast Beef, Sliced Thin 






Beets 


Hot Brown Sauce 






Cottage Pudding, 


Whole Potatoes Cooked in Deep Fat 






Maple Syrup Sauce 


Brussels Sprouts 






Tea 


Pumpkin Pie Half Cups Coffee 





Breakfast 

Cereal, Thin Cream 

Hashed Lamb, Potato and Green Pepper 

Graham Muffins 

Apple Marmalade 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Potato Soup, Croutons 
Mayonnaise of SHced Tomatoes and Eggs 

Baking Powder Biscuit 
Apple Tapioca Pudding Cream and Sugar 

Dinner 

Hearts of Hahbut, Saute 
Mashed Potatoes 
Creamed Celery- 
Philadelphia Relish 
Individual Lemon Pies, with Meringue 



Breakfast 

Barley Crystals, Thin Cream 

Roast Beef-and-Potato Hash 

Chili Sauce 

Amber Marmalade 

Philadelphia Butter Buns 

Coffee Cocoa 

Luncheon 

Scalloped Oysters 

Mixed Mustard Pickles Bread and Butter 

Cranberry-and-Raisin Turnovers 

Half Cups Coffee 

Dinner 

Boiled Fresh Codfish, Egg Sauce 

Boiled Potatoes Egg Plant Fritters 

Lettuce, French Dressing 

Lemon, Sponge or Snow Pudding 



Dinner 



Breakfast Luncheon 

Baked Apples, Thin Cream Creamed Fresh Codfish au gratin Breast of Lamb, Boiled, Caper Sauce 

Frizzled Dried Beef Baked Potatoes Boiled Potatoes Boiled Turnips 

Potatoes Warmed in Milk Commeal Muffins, Toasted Spinach, Creamed 

Commeal Muffins Corn Relish Sweet Potato Rolls 

Yeast Crullers Apple or Squash Pie White Cake, Chocolate Marshmallow 

Coffee Cocoa Cottage Cheese Tea Icing Cup Custard 

297 



Menus for Thanksgiving Dinners 



I 

Fruit Cocktail in Red Apples 
Creamed Oysters in Swedish Timbale Cases 
Roast Guinea Hens 
Rice Croquettes with Currant Jelly- 
Spiced Pickled Peaches 
Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 
Onions Stuffed with Ham, 
Cream Sauce 
Celery Hearts 
Cranberry-and-Raisin Turnovers 

Frozen Custard 

Salted Peanuts and Butternuts 

Coffee 



II 

Consomme, with Vegetables, Julienne 

Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing 

Scalloped Oysters in Shells 

Mashed Potatoes 

Onions in Cream, Baked Squash 

Cranberry Sauce, Celery Hearts 

Pumpkin Pie, Quince Pie 

Pineapple Sherbet 

Goodwins with Maple Fondant 

Raisins, Nuts, Cider 



III 

Grapefruit, White Grapes and Pineapple 

(in glass cups) 

Oyster Soup 

Olives, Celery Hearts 

Roast Turkey, Sausage Cakes 

Cranberry Jelly 

Creamed Chestnuts 

Buttered Onions, Squash 

French Endive Salad 

Pumpkin Pie 

Maple-and-Nut Sundae 

(Vanilla Ice Cream) 

Half Cups Coffee, Cider 

Raisins. Nuts 



IV 

(School or Institution) 

Roast Chicken, Giblet Sauce 

Pork Sausage Cakes 

Cranberry Sauce, Mashed Potatoes 

Onions, Squash, Celery 

Warm Pumpkin Pie (with maple syrup) 

Whipped Cream or Cream Cheese 

Thanksgiving Pudding 

Coffee, Nuts, Raisins 



(Family of Two) 

Sliced Pineapple 

Chicken Pie, Casserole Style 

Cranberr}^ Sauce 

Celery Hearts 

Maple Parfait, Sponge Drops 

Half Cups of Coffee 

Nuts, Raisins 



VI 

(Family of Two) 

Grapefruit Cocktail 

Roast Chicken, Giblet Sauce 

Sweet Pickled Peaches 

Mashed Potatoes, Squash 

Lettuce and- Celery-Hearts, French Dressing 

Cranberr>^-and-Raisin Turnovers 

Half Cups of Coffee or Grape Juice 

Maple Bonbons, Nuts 



,/3* •^^ 




298 



Domestic Engineering 

By George E. Walsh 



THE application of business effi- 
ciency to the household has 
been tried more or less scien- 
tifically in a number of cases, but for 
the real housewife and mother, who has 
the care of a family in her charge, with 
a limited income to meet all expenses, 
the practical must always be separated 
from the theoretical. In Colonia, New 
Jersey, there has been in operation for 
some time now a Housekeeping Experi- 
ment Station of the New Jersey Fed- 
eration of Women's Clubs, organized 
for the purpose of trying out theories 
of housekeeping, to see how well they 
come out in actual practice. Domestic 
engineering is treated here not only as 
a science, but as a means to a direct 
end — and that is to simplify and stand- 
ardize the work of the mother and house- 
keeper. 

It is the first practical attempt to 
study motions in housework for the 
purpose of eliminating the unnecessary 
or wasteful motions. Undeniably, the 
ordinary house is not as thoroughly de- 
signed and equipped for economy and 
efficiency as the modern factory and 
office, but much has been attained in 
recent years to reduce the drudgery and 
save the waste. Waste includes mental 
and physical misdirection as well as 
loss of good material. 

For instance, fatigue is one of the most 
uneconomical wastes of the household, 
for it may end in sickness or complete 
nervous prostration. Both the mental 



and spiritual nature of the woman 
suffers in such cases as well as the physi- 
cal. Fatigue in the home, as in the 
office or ^factory, has three causes: 
1st, necessary fatigue due to effective 
work; 2nd, unnecessary fatigue due to 
uncomfortable conditions or surround- 
ings, or to unnecessary work and 
motions; 3d, fatigue due to coming to 
the day's work improperly rested. 

The first of these may not be elimin- 
ated at all times, but it can be greatly 
lessened and modified by rest periods 
and more general preparations. Neces- 
sary fatigue, however, comes only at 
intervals, and is not long sustained, 
such as when in the rush season one 
must preserve fruit in considerable 
quantities in a few weeks or when other 
strenuous work demands unusual con- 
centration of effort. Unless prolonged 
unduly, this so-called necessary fatigue 
causes no permanent injury. 

But the other two causes of fatigue 
can be largely eliminated, and to achieve 
this is a part of the aim of domestic 
engineering. Unnecessary fatigue, for 
instance, is cut down by utilizing time 
and labor-saving implements in their 
proper season, such as the fireless cooker 
in hot weather, washing machines, hot 
and cold water equipments in the kit- 
chen, modern cooking devices that save 
time and steps. Uncomfortable sur- 
roundings and equipments cause mental 
and physical distress, which quickly 
produce fatigue. Such a small thing 
299 



300 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



as an uncomfortable chair when at 
work may set up an irritation of nerves 
and muscles that has a bad cumulative 
effect. A pantry with shelves placed 
at an improper height; a poorly 
lighted and heated kitchen; a cooking 
range that will not respond well to the 
worker; a sewing machine that is not 
properly oiled or adjusted, and hence 
operates with difficulty, and general lack 
of standardized utensils — all of these 
may cause unnecessary fatigue that has 
an injurious cumulative effect upon the 
nerves and muscular system. 

Fatigue due to coming to the day's 
work improperly rested is a fruitful 
cause of household drudgery and com- 
plaint. This does not refer to weakness 
due to sickness, which had nothing to do 
with the household cares, but to lack of 
strength as a result of insufficient sleep 
and proper periods of rest. The factory 
girl who dances until the late hours in 
the morning approaches her day's task 
insufficiently rested, and fatigue follows 
shortly. This is not due to any strenu- 
ous work on her part, but simply to the 
condition of her nerves and muscles at 
the beginning. A girl who keeps this 
up continually is worth much less to 
her employer than another who takes 
the proper amount of rest between 
working hours. In the end, she breaks 
down, and makes life a drudgery. 

The housewife who approaches her 
daily task in the same way brings on 
unnecessary fatigue, which lessens her 
efficiency, and invites sickness and a 
nervous breakdown. It is recognized 
in all the industries that frequent, short 
times for rest, with a few minutes in the 
open air after strenuous periods of 
work, will work wonders in keeping up 
the health and efficiency of the toilers. 
Even temporary rests, just long enough 
to throw open all the windows to admit 
a complete change of air, produce re- 
markable results. 

The housekeeper could borrow from 
the factory this little plan of lightening 
the burden of daily toil. The string 



stretched taut all the time soon snaps 
or loses all of its elasticity. The mind 
and body kept pitched to a high strenu- 
ous life must suffer likewise. 

Motion study applied to the house- 
hold has revealed many interesting 
things. For instance, if you count the 
number of motions you make in folding 
a tablecloth or making up a bed, you will 
be surprised at the result. Investiga- 
tions show that the average untaught 
servant makes upward of one hundred 
motions in making a bed, and a trained 
worker can do it better in less than half 
that number. The same is true of 
nearly all other common household 
labors. There is an unnecessary waste 
of motions. In masonry work, the 
application of the efficiency system has 
resulted in the elimination of so many 
unnecessary motions that an ordinary 
mason can lay nearly one-third more 
bricks a day then by the old system with- 
out tiring him any more. 

Of course, one naturally smiles at the 
idea of counting motions in making a 
bed or cooking a meal, and it would be 
ludicrous if one had to stop and count 
every time one of these jobs was done. 
The study of motions is to find the 
simplest and easiest way to do a certain 
work, and, when all unnecessary motions 
are eliminated, to learn and teach that 
way of doing the same thing day after 
day. It is standardizing a scientific 
method. Fortunately we are so con- 
stituted that doing the same thing over 
and over again, day after day, becomes 
an automatic process. If we learn to 
do it right, it comes just as natural to 
us as to do it wrong. 

A good illustration of this efficiency 
system applied to household work may 
be found in our large hotels. A system 
of efficiency has been worked out for 
setting a table, making up a bed, wash- 
ing dishes, cleaning a room, and folding 
the linen. A new hand is taught this 
system. In many cases she has to 
learn all over again how to make a bed 
or set a table. No matter how well she 



DOMESTIC ENGINEERING 



301 



thinks she can do the work, she must 
follow the rules of the hotel. The re- 
sult is that far greater and better work 
is obtained in these hotels than in the 
kitchen or upstair rooms of private 
houses. There is, also, less friction and 
less fatigue for the amount of work ac- 
complished each day. 

Counting motions in the home, even 
steps, would reveal to almost any one 
that many of them are unnecessary. A 
practical determination to eliminate 
some of them would greatly lessen the 
day's work. A great deal of modern 
domestic engineering is intended for the 
servant, but the housewife who does 
her own work cotild learn even more from 



it because of her higher general intelli- 
gence. Her efficiency is improved, her 
health conserved, her mind and spirits 
kept fresh and enthusiastic, and her 
family gains immeasurably through the 
unconscious elimination of friction. 
The mother cannot be a household 
drudge and give proper attention to the 
rearing of her children. If either must 
suffer, it must be the former; but in 
many cases the drudgery could be 
greatly lessened by more frequent rest 
periods, more careful study of motions, 
and general improvement of physical 
and mental surroundings. This is the 
higher aim of domestic engineering, the 
ideal to be striven for. 



Friendship 



Great are the gifts of Life to us; 

The many gifts and sweet! 
The gift of work for eager hands, 

And rest for wear}' feet. 
But one there is we love the most 

Of all gifts great and small. 
Drink a toast! Drink a toast! 

To this, best gift of all! 



The gift of joy is a pleasant one 

And happy calm content, 
The gift of pride for labor done — 

And all gifts life has sent. 
But stricken of the one great gift 

What use were all the rest? 
In praises then your voices lift 

For this of gifts the best. 



To friendship! To friendship 
That cheers us as we go! 

We'll drink a toast to friendship 
The greatest gift we know! 



To friendship! To friendship! 

To friends both old and new 
And to you, friends — Hark, all my friends 

To you, to you, to you! 



For what avails successes won 

If there be none to care? 
It's sweet to know there's even one 

With whom our joy to share. 
And when despair comes swift and sure 

And darks our world awhile, 
What is it brings the sun once more? 

A handshake and a smile! 



To friendship! To friendship! 

A toast to friendship true! 
Then hearken friends of all the earth 

We drink to you, to you! 

Mary Carolyn Davies. 



Clean Meals for All Comers 

By G. C. H. 



SALT LAKE CITY, like most west- 
em towns, is ambitious, wideawake 
and up-to-the-minute in all lines 
of civic progress. As you step into the 
street-car at the station your eye lights 
upon a placard signed by the City 
Fathers and reading something like 
this: 

Clean up your yards! 

Paint your houses and fences I 

Plant vines and flowers I 

Lots of folks will visit us this summer! 

It is this civic pride which accounts for 
the wide, well-paved streets, the ample 
and courteous police force and, most 
important from the tourist's point of 
view, the clean eating-places. 

Many cities have restaurant inspec- 
tion nowadays, but I doubt whether 
there is to be found anywhere a more 
constructive, educative and far-reaching 
policy than that which is being worked 
out by Mrs. Cook of the Salt Lake Board 
of Health. It was my good fortune to 
spend a day with her recently and to 
see for myself how she accomplishes her 
results. I found her in her office busy 
with the tag-ends of a fly-campaign and 
while she finished, I examined a pile of 
fly-cartoons: they were the work of the 
public schools and were so engrossing 
that I was almost sorry when she laid 
aside her pen and said "Now we'll 
start on the rounds." 

As we went along we talked of her 
work, which is now three years old. 
"How did you happen to take it up?" 
I asked curiously. 

"Oh," she said, "I think I just grew 
into it. I've always been deeply in- 
terested in reforms of all sorts: when 
this opportunity came, it appealed to me 
as worth while; the club women helped 
me to get the place, and that's the 
whole story," 



"But didn't you flnd it embarrassing 
just at first?" 

"Not at all. You see, I'm rather 
philosophical and I looked upon it 
simply as my business. Then, too, I 
was genuinely anxious to better con- 
ditions and that helped a great deal. 
Of course, there was opposition at first: 
people always resent an^'thing like inter- 
ference with their- aft'airs, and inter- 
ference there had to be in plenty. 
That's where I found use for all the 
tact I could muster. Then, too, they 
had an idea that cleanliness must mean 
decrease in profits; as soon as I could 
convince them to the contrary things 
began to go smoothly. Oh, I've had 
a revolver drawn on me. And there's a 
part of the city we call Greektown — I'd 
like to take you over there, but it's too 
far — twenty saloons, and a restaurant 
in the back of every one of them. At 
first, every man present used to rise and 
follow me about, just to see what I was 
going to do. And I've been in a Mex- 
ican restaurant when every man there 
was drunk. But I was never molested 
and now I've ceased to be a novelty." 

We paused in front of a five-cent 
coffee-house. "I think this is a good 
place to begin," she said, "I'm specially 
interested in these places because I 
feel, that if a man has only a nickel or so 
to spend, he ought to get his money's 
worth in good clean food." She swung 
the door open. "May we come in and 
look around?" she asked as courteously 
as if she wore no badge of authority. 
"Sure thing!" answered the proprietor 
heartily, "Help yourselves." 

The half-dozen men at the counter 
watched us curiously as we passed along 
back of the counter examining the food 
supply on the long shelf beneath it. 
Mrs. Cook kept up a low running fire of 
comment and explanation: "Cracker- 
302 



CLEAN MEALS FOR ALL COMERS 



303 



box covered — sugar covered — silver 
clean — oh, here are the pies; pies are a 
great help to me. They can't be kept 
covered or they'll spoil, and a mouse or 
cockroach can smell pie a mile away. 
Now we'll look at the kitchen." Here 
everything was satisfactory and the 
dishwasher came forward with a smile. 
"Oh, Mrs. Cook," he said, "I want to 
show you our new sterilizer for the 
glasses; it's my own idea and it's work- 
ing fine." 

"One of my worst fights," she ex- 
plained when we had duly admired and 
were on our way again, " was to make 
them wash their tumblers; they insisted 
that rinsing in cold water was enough. 
One of the worst offenders just now is 
the soda-fountain at one of our big 
department stores. But I get tips 
from my friends constantly and when I 
go in there next I shall say "Mr. Brown, 
I've had complaints from six of your 
best women customers about the con- 
dition of your soda-glasses. That will 
make him take notice, I think. There's 
a Japanese place down here that you 
must see; he had such a hard time, at 
first, but is doing fine now." 

A little Japanese lady met us at the 
door and conducted us proudly through 
an immaculate lunch-room to an im- 
maculate kitchen. Mrs. Cook drew 
the covers back to show me the day's 
supply of bread, then frowned and shook 
her head at the faint musty smell. The 
little lady looked distressed and went 
for her husband who explained earnestly 
that he washed the cloths ''every two, 
three days" in ammonia water. "Per- 
haps they cover the bread while it's 
warm," I ventured in a low voice. 
"That's the trouble," she answered, 
"but you see, it's a hard problem for 
them. They work on a small margin 
and can't afford to waste a scrap; 
people won't eat the bread if it's the 
least bit dry, so all I can do is to be 
considerate and keep cautioning them. 
May we see the store-room, Charlie?" 

Charlie showed us into a neat base- 



ment with cereals and flour in tin cans 
and everything up from the ground. 
"He thought he couldn't afford to keep 
it this way, but he finds that it doesn't 
cost any more and saves his supplies 
from mold and vermin," she explained, 
while Charlie smiled happily. 

"This man," she told me as we passed 
a short-order house, -"was one of my most 
trying problems; he was stubborn and 
defiant and it took two years to get him 
into line, but he came with a rush, at 
last, and now he's my firm friend. Why, 
he makes cleanliness his drawing card 
now and his trade has doubled and re- 
doubled in the last year. He's a Greek 
and as a rule they are fine people to 
work with." 

"No," in answer to a question, "we 
very rarely go into court and then only 
when we're absolutely sure of our 
ground. You can see that one adverse 
ruling would set us back for years. 
Moral suasion is slower but more satis- 
factory. Would you like to see this 
place? It's a Chinese restaurant and 
was simply unspeakable when we took 
hold of it." 

"Hello, Mis' Cook, you come right 
in," was her greeting here and we made 
our way back to the kitchen where 
cook and kitchen-boy met us with 
smiles. Mrs. Cook gave a swift ap- 
praising glance round and then drew 
from her pocket a little flashlight and 
ran it along the shelves. "You won't 
find any this time," said the boy con- 
fidently, "that last stuff you brought 
fixed 'em." She lifted the lid of the 
stock-pot and sniffed vigorously; "I 
always examine the soup-kettle," she 
remarked, "there's such a temptation 
to carelessness there. Now, John, may 
we see the refrigerator?" It was an old 
one and not conveniently arranged. 
"They're not allowed to lay the meat 
directly on the ice," she told me, "so 
I've taught them to use old pieces of 
muslin and to wash them every day. 
See how clean it. smells!" 

Another stop. This time I hesitated. 



304 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



This was the place where I had en- 
joyed several meals during the past few 
days; did I dare go in and risk dis- 
illusionment? I decided to be game 
and was rewarded, for this little cafeteria 
bears inspection splendidly and I came 
out happy. 

That the Inspector carries an iron 
hand under her velvet glove is evident 
from the eager excuses v/hich greet her 
when things are not quite up to stand- 
ard. "The basement's all in a litter 
today, Mrs. Cook. You know we're 
whitewashing it and everything is in a 
heap. It's going to be fine when it's 
done, but I sure hate for you to see it 
now." And with equal eagerness they 
take her to inspect the new refrigerating 
plant or invite her to start the new elec- 
tric oven when it's installed next week. 

And right here it seems to me lies the 



secret of her success. She doesn't 
expect the impossible; she knows legiti- 
mate clutter from real dirt; she doesn't 
require immaculate order during rush 
hours; above all she knows when to 
speak and when to keep silent. It is 
this tact and sympathy which have won 
her many victories. 

I have said that her work is con- 
structive. It will be a long time before 
conditions are perfect, for restaurants 
are but human institutions after all. 
Meanwhile, if you happen to be in 
Salt Lake City, it is pleasant to know 
that whether the state of your purse 
leads you to the five-cent coffee-house 
or to the best hotel, you can command a 
clean wholesome meal. And, let me 
whisper it, your chances are about as 
good nowadays at the one as at the 
other. 



Nuts Are Nuts 



By Jeannette Ducey 



THE dining room was deserted. 
The house, for the moment, so 
still it seemed uninhabited. And 
that was how it happened. 

"Please don't lean all your weight on 
me," complained the exasperated little 
hazel nut. And, giving the walnut a 
shove, she sent it rolling against the 
pecan nut. 

"Yes, you needn't think you are the 
only nut in this bowl!" shouted the pecan 
nut. And she also gave the walnut a 
violent shove, and sent it rolling against 
the side of the bowl. 

The hazel nut glared. "I wish some 
one would eat you." 

"Yes, so do I," echoed the pecan nut. 

"They probably will," sadly declared 
the walnut. "I heard them say they 
were going to make nut cake to-mor- 
row." 



"So they are," mournfully the almond 
put in. "We're not long for this earth, 
any of us." 

"Oh, be still!" the Brazilian nut spoke. 
"You tire me to death." And she gave 
them all the look of disdain a superior 
gives those she thinks inferior. 

"You needn't use that tone to us," 
championed the pecan nut hotly. 
"You're no better than we." 

"Much you know about me," snapped 
the Brazilian nut. "You're common 
little things, while people have to send 
all the way to Brazil for me. And more 
than that, painters and dyers could 
not do without the tree that bore me." 

"Why couldn't they.''" chorused the 
pugnacious hazel and pecan nuts. 

"Because the wood of my tree is dye 
wood. The whole world depends on 
me for a color," she answered import- 



NUTS ARE XUTS 



305 



antly. "And," she continued, "any- 
body can go out into most any woods and 
pick up most of yoti." 

"Oh, I don't know that you are so 
much better than we," spoke up the 
walnut, stirring herself into a lazy 
semblance of anger. "Originally I came 
all the way from Persia. And my wood 
is used for the finest cabinet work. And 
my oil is used in paints. I think I'm 
just as good as you are, and certainly 
better looking." And in smug, lang- 
uorous indifference she settled herself 
comfortably against the side of the 
bowl where she had been shoved. 

' ' Goodness ! What braggers ! ' ' shrilled 
the irritated hazel nut. "Listen to me! 
Far-off Norway saw me first. And as 
for the wood of the hazel tree: it's the 
most flexible in the world, and is used 
for hoops and casks. So I think my 
importance to the world is readily seen." 

"Still, I am the nut that every one 
buys the most of," said the ladylike al- 
mond. "Which proves conclusively 



that / am the greatest of you all." 

"Ha, ha!" laughed the walnut con- 
temptuously. "If it wasn't too much 
trouble I'd show you all that I am 
greatest." 

"I am!" snapped the hazel nut. 

"I am!" shouted the pecan angrily. 

"No, I—" 

The Brazilian nut got no further, for 
just then little Betty, the eight-year-old 
daughter of the house, burst into the 
room. Healthy and hungry, she didn't 
even wait to remove her cap and coat; 
and the first edible thing her eyes lighted 
on was the nut dish. 

Quick as a wink, Betty and the dish 
were on the floor together. "Crack!" 
went the nut cracker. "Crack! Crack! 
Crack!" And presently nothing but a 
few shells remained. And they huddled 
together, apparently, without thought of 
caste or class. While Betty murmured 
to herself when she finished, "I never 
can tell which kind I like best. They're 
all so good." 



Thanksgiving 

There isn't a holiday like to Thanksgiving, 

No not one, 
You're happy enough that you just can be living, 

It's such fun. 
Pies in the cupboard and turkey and dressing, 

Cakes and sweets, 
Crullers and jellies and even,- such blessing, 

Kno-^Ti as eats. 



There isn't a feasting time like to Thanksgiving, 

All the year, 
Christmas is mostly for getting and giving. 

That's its cheer. 
But turnips and cabbage and cranberry roses. 

Oh, sublime! 
This is the day that the real bhss discloses 

Holiday time. 

L. M. Thornton. 




Home Ideas 

and 
-sEcONOMIEvSS' 



WWW. 




Contributions to this department will be gladly received. Accepted items will be 
paid for at reasonable rates. 



Scrimshaw Work. 

MOST persons, other than New 
Englanders or residents of old 
whaling towns, would be somewhat 
puzzled if asked to define scrimshaw 
work. To the average individual it 
suggests some fancy stitch, while it is 
in realit}^ as described in the dictionary, 
the carving on whalebone done by old 
sea captains, while off on their three 
year trips. During these long, lonely, 
tiresome cruises, they made these tokens 
to take back to wives and sweethearts, 
and they were certainly indicative of 
labor and love. 

Mrs. Thomas Lawton of Newport, 
R. I., has an interesting collection of 
this scrimshaw work, containing sev- 
eral dozen jaggon wheels. 

To many, a jaggon wheel is as much 
of a mystery as this whalebone decora- 
tion itself. The queer, little wheels, 
used for making designs and flutings or 
crimpings around the edges of pies and 
tarts, were most necessary to the kit- 
chen equipment of New England house- 
wives. Any amount of originality was 
worked out on these little implements; 
the wheel being made of the bone and, 
also, the handle, on which the elaborate 
decorative work in fancy forms was put. 
The more intricate the work, the prouder 
the women, who compared jaggon 
wheels, in those days, as the nineteenth 
century women compare their silver and 
linen. 

Some of these old bone trinkets are 
curious and unusual; they represent 
birds' claws, sprays of flowers, branches 

306 



of trees. One is a gracefully shaped 
leg, in the foot is a two-pronged silver 
fork, this steel part being quite uncom- 
mon. 

In some of these jaggon wheels, are 
carved fancy rings, for hanging them 
up. Besides the fancy scrolling and 
carving in unique designs, initials and 
love mottoes were inscribed, then col- 
ored with red India ink or burnt in with 
a coarse, heated needle. 

Other tokens of scrimshaw work made 
by these old sailors were spoons and 
stilettoes. 

To execute a work of art and exhibit 
real talent, whole whale-teeth were 
used. Pictures, scenes, ships, etc, were 
burnt or carved in and then tinted with 
brilliant inks. 

How many readers need to be en- 
lightened on the subject of busks? A 
number of these are, also, in this inter- 
esting Newport collection. A busk is 
a strip of whale bone about a foot long 
and from two to three inches wide, and 
was originally .used as the only stay for 
the front of a woman's under waist or 
bodice. The wives of the old seamen 
were, indeed, proud of these fancy stays, 
lavish with scrimshaw work, showing 
flowers, trailing vines, love mottoes and 
initials, frequently grouped around two 
hearts, — this later being a favorite 
design. 

History tells us that these busks often 
did service for other than their main 
purpose, and that many an impulsive 
mother was known to quickly draw her 
busk from the low bodice and use it 
for spanking her young "incorrigible." 



HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES 



307 



The average whaler did not attempt 
to weave "swifts," but some were 
ingenious enough to put them together 
and then decorate the standards and 
ribs of these queer, old time yarn- 
winders, called swifts. 

The aim of a collector, interested in 
this uncommon scrimshaw work, is to 
own pieces by Du Blois, a famous New- 
port whaler. His carving was extremeh' 
elaborate and intricate in design. 

M. P. J. 

Hints for Furnishing The Dining 
Room 

IN hanging a mirror above a sideboard, 
care should be taken that people 
sitting at the table are not obliged to 
see the reflection of themselves while 
eating. 

One should avoid the tendency to 
overload the top of the sideboard. 
Canons of good taste suggest having 
only a few things of telling decorative 
value. The note of simplicity is de- 
stroyed if a lot of fussy little odds and 
ends are allowed to congregate there. 
A large silver bowl and candle sticks of 
silver are safe adornments. 

A screen before the butler's pantry 
door provides good opportunity for 
adding an agreeable note that will stand 
out against the background of the wall. 

One or, possibly, two appropriate 
pictures, with, perhaps, a rare bit of 
porcelain, ought to complete the decora- 
tions of the dining room. M. J. 

Pretty Thanksgiving Table 
Decoration 

AS the appearance of the table adds 
greatly to the success of a dinner, 
it is well worth a little serious thought 
upon the part of the hostess. This 
suggestion for the first holiday of im- 
portance may assist her in planning for 
those that follow. 

Cover the table with four thicknesses 
of chiffon, first red, then flame-color. 



then leaf-green and, lastly, one of yel- 
low, cutting the edges in deep points 
like leaves and having each a trifle 
shorter than the other. Place in the 
center a gilt, wicker horn of plenty 
filled with red and yellow apples and 
yellow bananas and green grapes, resting 
on a bed of yellow and red chrysan- 
themums and ferns. Use gray Japan- 
ese china and serve olives, salted nuts 
and bonbons in papier mache halves 
of apples, pumpkins and cucumbers 
that are made for the purpose. At 
each place put a tiny market basket 
filled with ]\Iarzepan vegetables with 
a card on top, which forms a "place 
card." Use red candles with yellow 
flower shades. Above the table invert 
a yellow Japanese umbrella with black 
pattern over the surface, which will 
cast a yellow glow over the table; 
around the inside edge place souvenirs 
for all, each tied with the red, green and 
yellow ribbons that hang over the edge, 
to form a fringe so at the word from 
the hostess they may be drawn out eas- 
ily. The jellies, creams, sauces, garn- 
ishes and salads should be made to 
carry out the color-scheme as far as 
possible, to keep the key note of color 
harmony. 

In place of the horn of plenty, a 
birch-bark bowl or hollow-backed goose, 
could be used to hold the yellow and 
red flowers, and an odd service plate of 
the four colors could be used in place of 
the gray china if desired. J. Y. N. 

* * * 

Why it is a Privilege to be a 
Housewife 

Because I can work in an airy room, if I 
choose. 

Because I can do for those I love and 
serve them in return for the kind- 
nesses they render me! 

Because I can utilize the finest products 
of the great factories — for the tools of 
my trade are many and very excellent. 

Because I can look ahead to times when 
mv work will show in the lives of others ! 



308 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Because I can have about me pictures 
of my choosing, books to glance at 
between times, and the music of 
children! 

Because I can go out into the open and 
come home, knowing I shall have those 
about me who will listen to the in- 
spiration I have received and en- 
joyed! 

Because I can look forward to a future 
of quiet, but busy days of real service. 

For these reasons the duties of a house- 
wife and homemaker are pleasant to 
me, and the future, even with its 
troubles, a privilege to meet. What- 
ever comes to me, I shall always feel 
that the tasks of a housewife are en- 
riching, and most satisfying. 

E. M. W. 
* * * 

Suggestions for Children's Meals. 

RIPE bananas or cooked peaches 
or stewed prunes, mashed into 
fine pieces with a fork and stirred 
through cream of wheat, rice, oatmeal 
or other cooked cereals, will make a 
helpful change from the plain cereal. 

Bread and butter is rarely refused if 
'covered ever so lightly with pretty red 
currant jelly. 

Dice carrots, celery and potatoes and 
cook until very tender with chicken or 
other meat broth. 

Other suggestions are: 

Eggs carefully scrambled with milk. 

The yolk of egg cooked half an hour, 
mashed with plenty of butter and spread 
on bread for a sandwich. 

Baked apples. 

Corn starch pudding (slightly sweet- 
ened) made with egg and milk and 
served with bits of jelly. 

Cocoa made almost entirely of milk 
will be taken where plain milk will be 
refused. 

Bread pudding (slightly sweetened) 
made with milk and egg and served with 
cream. 

Plain bread and butter, cut in fancy 
shapes with cooky cutters. 



Baked custard, tapioca and rice 
pudding (without raisins). 

Plain unfrosted cake. 

Milk toast (thickened or thin). 

Graham crackers put together with 
butter for sandwiches. P. H. W. 

* * * 

Potatoes in Bacon. 

PEEL good-sized potatoes and cook 
in boiling water for fifteen min- 
utes or until they are a little tender. 
Remove from water and place in a shal- 
low pan. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar and one of butter. Pour one- 
third a cup of water over them, place in 
oven and bake twenty minutes. Re- 
move from oven and wrap a slice of 
bacon around each potato, fastening it 
to the potato with a tooth pick. Place 
in oven and cook ten minutes. 

Stuffed Mangoes. 

Split the mangoes, lengthwise, and re- 
move seed. Place mangoes in boiling, 
salted water for ten minutes, then re- 
move to cold water while preparing the 
forcemeat. Use leftover beef from your 
Sunday roast. Chop beef fine. There 
should be about a pint when chopped. 
Add one-half cup of cracker crumbs, a 
small onion chopped fine, three table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, and one good 
sized tomato, chopped fine. Mix well 
and stuff peppers. Place in pan or 
baking dish and pour over one cup of 
good beef stock. Cook twenty minutes 
in oven. Baste two or three times. 

To Bake Beans. 

Prepare beans as usual for baking. 
Place in oven and allow to bake for two 
or two hours and one-half. Remove 
from oven and immediately wrap with 
six or eight newspapers. Be sure your 
dish is wrapped closely. Place in oven 
and turn all gas off, or on the back of 
the stove. Leave this way for four or 
five hours. I find them much better 
baked in this manner, and they are 
no more trouble. G. F. P. 



m^»-\ 


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I J^z/eries 


' W't 


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J^ 


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atio 

oyfhswers 


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TU 



THIS department is for the benefit and free use of our subscribers. Questions relating to recipes 
and those pertaining to culinary science and domestic economics in general, will be cheerfully 
answered by the editor. Communications for this department must reach us before the first of the 
month preceding that in which the answers are expected to appear. In letters requesting answers 
by mail, please enclose addressed and stamped envelope. For menus, remit SI. 00. Address queries 
fo Janet M. Hill, Editor. Boston Cooking-School Magazine, 372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 



Query No. 2582 — "Recipe for Marble Cake 
without Molasses." 



Marble Cake. 



1 cup butter 
2^ cups sugar 
4 eggs, beaten to- 
gether 
1 cup milk 



I 4 cups flour 

I 2 teaspoonfuls cream tar- 

i tarfslighth' rounding) 

1 1 level teaspoonful 

I soda 

2 squares chocolate 

^ teaspoonful cinnamon 

Mix the cake in the usual manner; 
take out about one-third of the butter, 
add to it the chocolate melted over hot 
water and the cinnamon Put the two 
mixtures into pans irregularly to make, 
when baked, a cake of marbled appear- 
ance. Bake in two bread pans. 



Query No. 2583 — "Menus for Light Re- 
freshments for informal evenings at cards, 
music etc. for the month of November." 

LIGHT REFRESHMENTS 
Evenings in November. 

I 

Spanish Sandwiches 

Coffee 

White Grapes, Glace 

English Walnut Aleats, Glace 

II 

Gnocchi a la Romaine 

Apple-and-Celer>^ Mayonnaise 

Bread and Butter Sandwiches 

Sweet Cider 

III 

Mexican Rabbit on Crackers 

Olives Celery 

Sliced Pineapple 

Grape Juice 

Spanish Sandwiches. 

Put into a small chopping bowl twelve 
anchovies w4ped free of oil, two table- 



spoonfuls of capers and four or five 
branches of parsley; chop fine, then 
pound with a pestle, adding meanwhile 
half a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, 
one tablespoonful, each, of oil and vine- 
gar and the hard-cooked yolks of two 
eggs. When all is mixed to a smooth 
paste, spread upon bread prepared for 
sandwiches; sprinkle with the whites of 
the eggs, chopped fine, and press to- 
gether, sandwich fashion. 



Query No. 2584 — "Recipes for Mint Jelly, 
Cucumber Jelly and Mocha Cake. The cake 
is to be a chocolate cake and both chocolate and 
coffee are to be used in the filling." 

Mint Jelly. 



1 cup vinegar 
J teaspoonful salt 
J teaspoonful paprika 
f cup mint leaves, 
chopped fine 



1 tablespoonful granu- 
lated gelatine 

J cup cold water 

1 cup granulated 
sugar 

Soften the gelatine in the cold water. 
Boil the sugar and vinegar five minutes 
after boiling begins; add the softened 
gelatine, and stir until the gelatine is 
dissolved; add the seasoning and mint, 
also, green color-paste to tint as de- 
sired; when it begins to thicken, stir 
and turn into individual molds. 

Cucumber Jelly. 

Pare two cucumbers and cut in slices; 
add a slice of onion, a stalk of celery, 
half a tablespoonful of nasturtium 
seeds, a slice of green pepper and a 
scant half-teaspoonful of sweet herbs 
with w^ater to cover. Let simmer until 
the cucumber is tender, then press 



309 



310 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



through a very fine sieve. Season with 
salt and pepper. For each pint of 
Hquid, take one generous tablespoonful 
of granulated gelatine softened in one- 
third a cup of cold water and dissolved 
over hot water. Tint delicately with 
green color-paste and turn into molds 
to harden. 

Chocolate Mocha Cake. 



cup butter 

cup granulated 
sugar 

cup sifted brown 
sugar 

ounce melted choco- 
late 

egg-yolks, beaten 
light 

cup molasses 

cup cream 



J cup milk 
2 cups flour 
^ teaspoonful soda 
(generous) 

1 teaspoonful cinna- 

mon 
^ teaspoonful mace 
J teaspoonful clove 

2 egg-whites, beaten 

dry 



Bake in a sheet about twenty-five 
minutes. 

Mocha Frosting. 



2 oz. melted chocolate 
i cup strong black 
coffee (or more) 



1 cup butter 
2§ cups sifted confec- 
tioner's sugar 

If the butter be rather salt, wash it 
in cold water; work out all the water, 
then gradually beat in the sugar and 
the melted chocolate; finally, beat in 
the coffee a few drops at a time. 



Query No. 2585 — "Why do my doughnuts 
crack in frying? I wish them to be smooth on 
both sides." 

Why Doughnuts Crack. 

Doughnuts mixed too stiff with flour 
will crack in frying. This may not al- 
ways be the reason for this appearance, 
but it is the usual cause. • Doughnuts 
should be turned when they come to the 
top of the fat and often thereafter until 
cooked. 

Query No. 2586 — "Recipe for Devil's Food 
Cake." 



Devil's Food Cake. 



^ cup butter 



2 tablespoonfuls sugar 

3 eggs, beaten together 
^ cup milk 
if cups flour 
3 level teaspoonfuls 

baking powder 

Cream the butter, and beat in the 
Melt the chocolate, add the 



4 (ounces) squares 

chocolate 
4 teaspoonfuls boiling 

water 



boiling water and sugar and stir and 
cook to a smooth paste (a little more 
water may be needed), then beat into 
the first mixture; add the eggs, then, 
alternately, the milk and flour sifted 
with the baking powder. Bake in 
layers or in one sheet. This may not be 
as dark a cake as is desired, but is one 
that comes out well. 



Query No. 2587 — "Recipe for rich Clam 
Chowder for six people." 

Rich Clam Chowder. 



1 teaspoonful salt 
^ teaspoonful black 



pepper 
3 cups milk 
1 cup cream 



1 quart solid clams 

2 cups cold water 
1 slice fat salt pork 
1 onion, sliced thin 
1 pint sliced potatoes 
I cup butter 
^ cup flour 

Pour the water over the clams; rinse 
the clams in the water and remove bits 
of shell if present. Strain the water 
and clam juice through two folds of 
cheese cloth. Remove the soft part of 
the clams and chop the hard part fine. 
Cut the pork in bits and in it cook the 
onion until yellowed and softened; 
add the water and clam juice and let 
simmer ten minutes; parboil the pota- 
toes, drain, rinse in cold water and 
drain again; strain the water from the 
onions and pork over the parboiled 
potatoes; add more water if necessary, 
also the chopped clams and let cook 
until the potatoes are tender; add the 
soft part of the clams and let boil three 
minutes. Make a sauce of the butter, 
flour, seasonings and milk, combine the 
two mixtures and serve at once. Ad- 
ditional seasoning may be needed. 



sugar 



Query No. 2588— "Recipe for Orange Ice 
molded with whipped cream so that when un- 
molded the cream will be at the top." 

Orange Ice and Whipped 
Cream Molded. 

Use a mold with two covers. Make 
and freeze the orange ice as usual. To a 
pint of cream add a scant half-cup of 
sugar and such flavoring as is desired 
and beat until light, but not flrm or in 
the least dry. Lay a strip of parchment 



QUERIES AND ANSWERS 



311 



paper over one cover and press the sides 
of the mold into it. The cover and mold 
should have been chilled. Fill the mold 
to such height as desired with the 
frozen mixture, set the cream above to 
fill the mold to overflow, lay parch- 
ment paper above, press the second 
cover in place and bury the mold in 
equal measures of salt and crushed ice. 
If a . fancy-shaped mold with only one 
cover and that at the bottom be used, 
whip the cream a little dryer, set the 
mold in the ice firmly, fill the part that 
is to be above when unmolded with the 
cream, then add a thin layer of the 
orange ice, putting it on by the teaspoon- 
ful; add other layers in the same way 
until the mold is filled. The orange ice 
is no heavier than the cream and will 
not settle into it, to any extent. 

Query No. 2589 — "Recipe for rich Chocolate 
Ice Cream with Marshmallow Sauce." 

Rich Chocolate Ice Cream. 



1 quart milk 
6 egg-yolks 
H cups sugar 
^ teaspoonful salt 



4 (ounces) squares 
chocolate 

1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 

1^ tablespoonfuls va- 
nilla extract 

1 pint cream 



Scald the milk. Beat the yolks; 
add one cup of the sugar and beat 
again; add the salt and stir and cook in 
the hot milk until the mixture thickens 
slightly; have ready the chocolate, 
melted and cooked with the half-cups 
of sugar and enough boiling water to 
make a smooth paste; dilute the choco- 
late with a little of the hot custard, 
stir until smooth, then add to the rest 
of the custard and strain into a cold 
dish. When cold add the cream, the 
cinnamon and vanilla and freeze in the 
usual manner. 

Marshmallow Sauce (for Choco- 
late Ice Cream). 

I cup sugar i 2 lb. marshmallows 

i cup milk 1 2 tablespoonfuls boil- 

I ing water 

Boil the sugar and milk, without 
stirring, until the syrup threads when 



tested. When cooled to blood heat 
beat with a spoon until thick and white. 
Set the saucepan into boiling water 
and stir until the mixture is thin enough 
to pour. Stir the marshmallows and 
boiling water in a double boiler until 
smooth. Pour the two together and 
beat thoroughly. Keep warm (but not 
hot) while in use. Wash down the sides 
of the saucepan, cover and let cook two 
minutes, then uncover and cook just 
as in making boiled frosting. The sauce 
should be perfectly smooth. 



Query No. 2590- 
Cake." 



'Recipe for Moist Spice 



Moist Spice Cake. 

3 teaspoonfuls (level) 
baking powder 

1 teaspoonful cinna- 
mon 

^ teaspoonful mace 

J teaspoonful clove 



1 cup butter 
1§ cups brown sugar, 

sifted 

2 eggs, beaten without 

separating j 

^ cup coffee I 

2 cups flour I 

Cream the butter; 

the eggs and alternately, the coft'ee and 

flour sifted with the baking powder and 

spices. 



beat in the sugar, 



Query No. 2591 — '-Recipe for Fudge in which 
peanut butter is used." 

Peanut Butter Fudge. 

2 cups light brown sugar 

^ cup milk 

I cup (scant) peanut butter 

Boil the sugar and milk to the soft 
ball stage. Remove from the fire and 
gradually beat in the peanut butter. 
Replace on the fire a moment, then 
spread on a buttered pan. Cut in 
squares when partly cooled. 



Query No. 2592 — "Kindly repeat the 
for Newport Cake given in reply to Que 
1961." 



recipe 



ijliixj. x>Vy. ^sj:7^ xi-j-in^i \ iv.'^wciv/ cj.i.\^ x \^v_xj^* 

viewport Cake given in reply to Query No 

Newport Cake. 



I H cups sifted powder- 
I ed sugar 

! 5 egg-whites, beaten 
dry 
1 tablespoonf ul brandy 



1 cup butter 

1| cups sifted pastry 

flour 
1 level teaspoonful 

baking powder 
5 egg-yolks 

Cream the butter; gradually beat 
into it the flour, sifted again with the 
baking powder. Beat the yolks until 



312 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



thick and lemon-colored, then gradually 
beat the sugar into them. Gradually 
beat the yolks and sugar into the butter 
and flour mixture. Lastly, beat in the 
whites of the eggs and the brandy. 
Bake in a loaf one hour, in a sheet, 
about forty-five minutes. The heat 
of the oven should be moderate, es- 
pecially at first. The cake is very fine- 
grained, tender and delicate. 

Query No. 2593 — "How may dried bread be 
used other than for crumbing meats, fish and 
croquettes?" 

Uses for Dried Bread. 

We see no reason why there should 
ever be dried bread. There is really no 
very good use for dried bread, but 
enough stale bread is rarely to be found 
for the day's needs. Stale bread, freed 
from crust and pressed through a sieve, 
is always better than dried crumbs for 
covering any article that is to be cooked 
in deep fat. It takes a little longer to 
brown and makes a much prettier 
covering. Stale bread is used as dress- 
ing for poultry, fish and meats, in stuff- 
ing onions, tomatoes, squash and 
peppers; it is also used in scalloped 
oysters, fish, tomatoes and egg-plant, 
and in making bread-crumb griddle 
cakes. It is the chief ingredient in 
bread sauce, and is useful in cheese 
souffles and puddings; while ** Queen of 
Puddings" and plum pudding are de- 
pendent upon stale bread for existence. 



Query No. 2594 — "How make Vegetable 
Hash for a family of six^*" 

Vegetable Hash for Six Persons. 

Beets should be cooked in one sauce- 
pan; carrots, turnips, and potatoes may 
be cooked together, if desired. Use as 
much of all the other vegetables com- 
bined as of potatoes; chop rather fine. 
There should be about three pints of 
chopped material. Cut a generous slice 
of salt pork in very small bits and let 
cook in an iron frying pan until the fat 
is well tried out. Put in the vegetables, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, and turn 



in about half a cup of broth or boiling 
water; mix all together thoroughly, 
make smooth on the top, cover and let 
stand to become hot throughout, and 
slightly browned on the bottom. Fold 
as an omelet and turn upon a hot serv- 
ing dish. 

Query No. 2595 — "Recipes for Mock Chops 
or Mock Meat cakes suitable for Friday dinners 
when meat is not served." 

Bean Loaf. 



H teaspoonfuls salt 
I teaspoonful pepper 
1 cup (about) milk 



1 cup roasted-and- 

shelled peanuts 
1 cup beans, cooked 
1 cup soft bread crumbs 

toasted 

Soak the beans overnight ; let cook in 
fresh water until tender (about four 
hours). Press the beans through a 
sieve; add the nuts, ground fine, and the 
other ingredients and mix all together 
thoroughly. Shape into a loaf. Set 
into a pan and let bake about two hours, 
basting often with butter or vegetable 
oil and water. 

Cereal and Nutmeat Chops. 

1 cups hot cooked 
cream of wheat 

J cup soft sifted bread 
crumbs 

2 cups fine-crushed 

nut meats 



5 teaspoonful salt 
J teaspoonful peppers 
^ teaspoonful powder- 
ed thyme 
1 egg, beaten light 



Mix all the ingredients together 
thoroughly, then form into cutlet shapes. 
Set them on a buttered pan and let 
bake about twenty minutes. Or egg- 
and-bread crumbs and let fry in deep fat. 
Serve with bananas cut in halves, cross- 
wise, and then lengthwise, rolled in 
flour and sauted in hot fat, first on one 
side and then on the other. 



Query No. 2596 — "Suggestions for Light 
Breakfast Dishes, that may be cooked on a small 
electric stove in a sitting room; eggs and raw 
fruit are not allowed." 

Light Breakfast Dishes. 

Finnan haddie (put up in glass), 
heated in light cream; smoked, dried 
beef, heated in hot cream, on toast; 
creamed celery on toast; broiled fresh 
mushrooms on toast; cheese in cream 
sauce on toast. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 








For the Children 

"Sugar in some form is necessary for children, as 
their universal craving for it shows. * * * * 
Sugar is best taken when combined with food, so 
candy should be restricted. * * * *" 

Elizabeth Robinson Scoville. 

Ti| O EVERY mother the candy question 
I is perplexing. Its proper answer — indi- 
i ij cated in the quotation given above — is 
wholesome cakes and cookies. 

The objection that such foods may tax the diges- 
tion of the child can be overcome by making 
them with 



(RISCO 

^L /or Frying - For S/i orlenmg 
^<m0»' For Cake MaJring 



Cake MaMing 

Crisco contains no animal fats. It is entirely vegetable— 
and melts at less than body temperature, leaving no 
solids to delay digestion. 

Crisco is packed in a great, sun-lit, spotless building, 
finished throughout in glass and tile. No hand touches 
the product, all machinery is nickeled or enameled and 
the very air is washed before it enters. 

Crisco Brownies 

Vi cupful suear 1 cupful flour 

M cupful Crisco 1 cupful chopped nut meats 

M cupful molasses )/i teaspooiiful salt 

2 etres M teaspootiful vanilla extract 

(Use level measurements) 
Cream Crisco and suear together, add eggs well beaten, 
molasses, extract, flour, salt and nuts. Divide into small 
fancy Criscoed tins, or bake in Criscoed sheet tin and 
cut in squares. Bake in moderate oven half hour. 
Crisco Brownies are a cross between cake and candy. 
Suflftcient for twelve squares. 

If you want to know more about Crisco and the conditions under which it 
is prepared, send for the "Calendar of Dinners". This cloth-bound, 
gold-stamped book contains, besides the story of Crisco, a diflferent dinner 
menu for every day of the year and 615 recipes gathered and carefully 
tested by Marion Harris Neil. Address Department A-11, The Procter <t 
Gamble Co., Cincinnati, O., cnQ\o%\x\z five 2-ctm stamps. A paper-bound 
edition, without the "Calendar of Dinners" and with 250 recipes is free. 








Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 
313 



4; 



Disappearance of the General House- Worker 



By J. Y. N. 



THE disappearance of the ''gen- 
eral house-worker" has brought 
consternation and despair to 
many small households. The disap- 
pearance has been caused by a lack of 
standard in her duties. 

At one place she was overworked by 
an unreasonable mistress, at another 
place she was completely spoiled by a 
woman who knew nothing of the art of 
housekeeping. "This is not my work, 
or that is not my work", became daily 
complaint with her until one wondered 
how it could be possible that Mrs. A. 
on one side of the street could live so 
differently from Mrs. B. on the other. 

So she just went out of fashion for 
nobody knew how to manage her, and 
presto! there entered upon the scene a 
motley crew of ''speciaHzed" help, and 
but too true they each and all know but 
their own specialty and that none too 
well, and wages unlike salaries, have 
gone up accordingly. 

To standardize housework for large 
and for small establishments, is the only 
way of bringing capital and labor into 
harmonious relationship. 

Allowing the fact that some people 
from necessity have been driven to take 
up a delicatessen existence, and to ac- 
cept the aid of a ''day worker" to keep 
their "house in order", others have 
joined the family hotel colonies, and 
still others remain at the country homes 
the year around, rather than face the 
servant problem in town. Something in 
the way of a system is needed and badly 
so to save the American home; what is 
the remedy? 

The bride, surrounded by her wedding 
gifts and her portion of the family sil- 
ver, is in dire need of experienced help, 
but not more so than the more experi- 
enced wife who stands appalled at the 
large wage bill she is paying and the 



small amount of actual help she is get- 
ting from her "specialty" servants. 
Both are in need of the standard and 
must have it to adjust the family in- 
come by. 

The "Antis' " and the "Suffragists' " 
homes need the help standard equally, 
and, for once, they may meet upon com- 
mon ground and ''vote" for the standard 
with one voice. 

A much to be decried practice in the 
past has been the indiscriminate ref- 
erences given to departing servants. 
From mistaken good nature, or from a 
wish not to stand in their way of get- 
ting another place, though they have not 
found them competent, employers give 
them most misleading documents. Why 
the concealment of the actual cause of 
discharge is an unexplained mystery. 

This is one of the first evils to attack. 
Absolutely fair and square dealings be- 
tween capital and labor is the only hope 
of harmony. Regular hours for work 
and for freedom, standard wages, better 
ventilated kitchens, properly lighted and 
equipped, better ventilated bedrooms and 
sleeping conditions, are the humane de- 
mands of labor upon capital. 

Women's clubs should take the matter 
seriously under consideration ; it is a 
large contract to remedy these condi- 
tions, but concerted action on their part 
might do it. Turn the light of publicity 
on the subject which has festered in 
darkness for more years than one cares 
to admit, and see if a right standard 
raised won't bring about the desired 
result. 

See if the girls who have looked down 
on housework as degrading, with its lack 
of standard, and who have left it for 
the less protected factory and even 
worse, will not return to a profession 
that can be made honorable and dignified 
by right-minded employers. 



314 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 
315 



The Silver Lining 



When Love Relented 

With mood attuned to tender grief 
She touched her harp with soulful zeal; 

Love loitered for an instant brief — 
Then turned upon his heel. 

She opened wide the garden gate ; 

Within was bloom in rich array. 
Love yawned — he'd risen rather late — 

And passed upon his way. 

With chastened heart she sought retreat, 
And turned to plain, domestic art's; 

Lo, Love returned with flying feet, 
Lured by her matchless tarts. 

Harriet Whitney Symonds. 




The Hussy 

"My husband thinks my hand-painted 
china so lovely that he says he wants 
to take it with him when, he dies." 

"No doubt it will stand another 
firing." 



Popular Lies. 

"Yes, sir, my wife and I have lived 
together thirty years and have never had 
a cross word." 

"My summer vacation cost me exactly 
four dollars and sixty cents a day. 
Anyone who spends more than that is a 
base plutocrat." 

"I make a rule to pay all my bills 

316 



regularly in cash on the first day of every 
month. Then there's no question." 

"If I thought there was any doubt 
about my making your daughter happy, 
sir, I should be the last man in the world 
to ask her to marry me." 

"But, my dear, this is only my second 
cigar today." 

"Yes, sir. Ten thousand miles in 
that car of mine, and my total bill for 
repairs is eighteen cents." 

"So you don't believe in college educa- 
tion?" "No, sir. After graduation I 
nearly starved to death practising law." 
"But you look prosperous now." "Yes, 
sir. I went into vaudeville and made a 
fortune balancing a barrel on my feet 
while standing on my head." 

"Farm products cost more than they 
used to." "Yes," replied the farmer; 
"when a farmer is supposed to know the 
botanical name of what he's raisin', 
an' the entomological name of the insect 
that eats it, an' the pharmaceutical name 
of the chemical that will kill it, some- 
body's got to pay." 

An old colored man visited a doctor 
and was given definite instructions as to 
what he should do. He started to 
leave the office when the physician said: 
"Here, Rastus! You forgot to pay me." 
"Pay you for what, boss?" "For my 
advice," replied the doctor. "Don't 
owe you nothin' 'cause I ain't gwine take 
it," responded Rastus, as he shuffled out. 

The New Cooks— and the Old 

(A medical paper urges that cooks should be 
masters not only of chemistry and physics 
but of applied psychology, the physiology of 
the senses and aesthetics.) • 

Tell me, is your cook aesthetic, 
And not merely dietetic? 

Does she know the art of making 
Grub the psychologic way? 



ADVERTISEMENTS 







Only the best and purest malt 
vinegar-made in our own brewer 
ies, on the banks of the River 
Stour, Worcestershire, 
England -is used. 

It takes over two years of careful preparation 
and ageing <o produce the full, rich, mellow flavour 

A good wine cannot be made in a day 
was Holbrook's Sauce 




It it better to use no 
sauce at all than a sauce 
that is not Holbrook's." 




HOLBROOKS 



QRGE%:^RSHIRE 

nsAucE 





Freedom from KitcHen Drxidgery 



Awarded 

"GOLD 
MEDAL' 

Highwt Award 

Panama Pacific Exp 

San Francisco 

rhe Majestic is the sure baker — its scientific construction 
orces the heat to every part of oven and its asbestos lining 
eflects the heat onto all parts of the baking. Bread 
s baked and browned p>erfectly, top, sides and bottom, 
-vithout turning. 

rhe Majestic is made of non-breakable, malleable iron and charcoal 
ron that resists rust three times longer than steel. The oven is kept tight 
Jcnnanendy, by cold riveting 'not bolted or clamped) — no cracks to be 
>uttied. The heat is held in, and maintained with less fuel. 



07ie quality 
— ma7iy styles and sizes 
— with or without legs. 



A Majestic means freedom 
from baking failures; free- 
dom from fuel and food 
waste, freedom from fre- 
quent repairs — freedom from 
the expense and annoy- 
ance of the ordinary range 
or cook stove — it means 



S3.TouL^^K3. 



its perfect baking 
■ prove the wisdom 



The Majesdc's economy of fuel, food and repairs, 
results, and the years it outlasU the ordinary range - 
of paying the slightly higher Majestic price. 

TTiere is a Majestic dealer in nearly every county of 42 States. 
If you don't know one, write us. 

Write for FREE book 

that tells what to look for when buying a range. It contains valuable 
information that will enable you to correctly judge a range. 

Majestic Manufacturing Co., Dept. 234. , St. Louis. Mo. 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes. 
317 



318 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Foods that taste good aren't sufficient — 
They're at least four-fifths deficient, 
For the newest plan of baking 
Brings our senses all in play. 

If you value your digestion, 
It's a very weighty question. 

Whether what's upon your table 
Bears a soft, euphonious name. 
Bills of fare should be symphonic, 
Full of verses so harmonic 

That from soup to nuts you're able 
To detect no foot that's lame. 

You may bake the choicest biscuit, 
But no scientist will risk it. 
Unless served upon a platter 
Where the colors harmonize. 
Cakes and every kind of pastry 
Will be much more nice and tasty, 
Made of pink or azure batter 
That appeals to soulful eyes. 

Drop your fork and let each finger 
On the food caressing linger — 
Note the salad's lines so graceful, 
And the sherbet's motif neat. 
Aren't those pancakes just artistic. 
Showing Maggie's tastes cubistic? 
Epicure could have no face full 
That would be half so aesthetic. 

Camembert that smells to heaven, 
Drench with perfumes six or seven. 
Mask the onions with carnation. 
Hide the garlic's strength with rose; 
So that nothing shall displease you. 
And each dish that's served shall tease you 
With a physical sensation. 

When its incense fills your nose. 

Poor old mother! What could she do 
With this brand new-fangled menu? 
Folks in her day never knew a 
Thing about such tommy rot ; 
But I'll stake my last red penny 
That she's still a match for any 
Scientist, at cooking you a 

Meal that's sure to hit the spot. 

Mark Bruce Wiley. 

^* Made in U. S. A." 

An American and a Scotsman, ac- 
cording to the Bristol Times, were walk- 
ing in the highlands and the Scot pro- 
duced a famous echo. When the echo 



returned clearly after nearly four min- 
utes, the proud native, turning to the 
Yankee, exclaimed: "There, mon, ye 
canna show anything like that in your 
country." 

"Oh, I don't know," said the Ameri- 
can. "I guess we can better that. 
Why, in my camp in the Rockies, 
when I go to bed, I just lean out of my 
window and call out, 'Time to get 
up! Wake up!' and eight hours after- 
ward the echo comes back and wakes 
me." 




They were on their wedding trip. 

"There," said the groom, "is where 
Goss makes laces." 

"How fine!" she exclaimed. 

"And here Wilson has his candy fac- 
tory." 

"So sweet," she answered, after the 
manner of some women. 

Socrates and Xantippe 

'Tis recorded, Socrates was wise. 
But not that he provided pies. 
'Tis writ Alcibiades had wit, 
But not that he could git up and git, 
'Tis said, Xantippe was a shrew; 
This, I suppose, was Socrates' view. 
Her tongue was about the only thing. 
With which Xantippe could have her "fling." 

R. S. M. 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Keeping Quality 
in the Pantry 




EVERY product of National Biscuit Company is the result of a 
fixed purpose to send the best of biscuit into American homes. 

When you buy biscuit baked by National Biscuit Company, you are 
buying the best of flour and sugar, butter and eggs, flavors and spices, 
fruits and nuts. More than that, you are receiving the advantages of 
skilled effort, intelligent supervision, rigid cleanliness and absolute knowl- 
edge. That's why careful housewives constantly keep a good supply 
of National Biscuit Company products in their pantries. 

NATIONAL BISCUIT COMPANY 



Uneeda Biscuit are used in thou- 
sjmds of homes because they are 
perfect soda crackers, made with 
infinite care, from materials of the 
finest qujility. Five cents. 



Flavor such as you never before 
tzisted in a Graham Cracker. Their 
freshness and nourishment put 
N. B. C. Graham Crackers on the 
daily menu of thousands of families. 
Five and ten-cent packages. 



Social Tea Biscuit are small, slightly 
sv^eetened biscuit that can be used 
with creams or ices, with dessert, 
for luncheon or dinner or at any 
time of day. Ten cents. 




Buy advertised Goods 



Do not accept substitutes. 
319 



320 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



According to Orders 

(Continued from page 285) 

using an antiquated hammer and a bat- 
tered old sad-iron. And he wiped the 
breakfast dishes, in order that EHzabeth, 
wrapped in a ridiculous hood and a 
short, padded coat, might accompany 
him to the barn to feed the stock. 

He found it almost impossible to keep 
away from the tantalizingly attractive 
kitchen with its fragrance of spicy 
cookery and its happy-faced little cook. 
"You must drive me away if I'm a 
bother," he told her, at length. "This 
is great, you know — reminds me of 
Grandmother's old kitchen out at the 
farm where I used to stay when I was 
a kid." 

"I would make a lovely grandmother, 
wouldn't I?" she challenged, demurely 
pinching the upper crust of a pie in 
place. 

"You would," he agreed, watching her 
with unsmiling eyes. 

"For which compliment you shall be 
duly rewarded, kind sir!" 

If Elizabeth found his look baffling 
while he watched her constructing a 
"turn-over" in true grandmotherly fash- 
ion from a scrap of left-over crust and 
a scarlet apple, there was no question 
about his delight when he found it 
awaiting him, warm from the oven, as 
he came in out of the storm from ac- 
complishing the noon "chores." 

And then, in the early dusk, the real 
Thanksgiving dinner! No use, no use 
at all, to attempt describing that dinner! | 
Home-made candles in queer pewter 
candlesticks. Quaint blue dishes from 
a truly "grandmother's first set"; with 
the handle of the sugarbowl so ingen- 
iously mended. And a smiling, grey 
little "native" forgetting her pain and 
her loneliness. 

Too, a dinner is vastly different when 
one has prepared the vegetables and iced ' 
the cake, anxiously basted the turkey ; 
and laboriously cracked the nuts. For i 
the first time in their experience, hus- j 



band and wife smiled spontaneously 
across the white cloth that separated 
them. 

But when the happy dinner could not 
longer be prolonged, and the tired little 
woman had been returned to the com- 
fort of her quiet bed, silence seemed to 
fall upon the room. 

"She is tired out, poor child," Mont- 
gomery thought solicitously. And he 
dropped the dish-towel impatiently 
when the telephone rang, loud and in- 
sistent. 

"Line fixed up," he announced, com- 
ing back after a brief conversation. 
"No trouble on this branch and they 
cleared out the main road this morning. 
We ought to wire home, I suppose — 
they will be anxious." 

"Yes," Elizabeth agreed, without en- 
thusiasm. Then, to his alarm, she be- 
gan sobbing nervously. "I don't know 
what . . . you will think of . . . me. I 
— I knew this morning that the line was 
open, and ... I never told you!" 

"I knew it, too," interrupted Mont- 
gomery strangely. 

For a moment they gazed at each 
other across the kitchen table piled with 
the blue dishes of "grandmother's wed- 
ding set." Then, with a smothered 
exclamation, the young man went round 
the table to her. 

"Why didn't you tell me, Betty?" 
he inquired breathlessly, laying insistent 
hands upon her soft, tender shoulders. 

"I was afraid we'd have to go on," she 



— Fall House Cleaning 

Fevers and sickness frequently follow 
the house opening, due to germs that 
have developed during the summer. 

Prevent this, by thoroughly cleansing and dis- 
infecting with 

Platts Chlorides . 

The Odorless Disinfectant, 

Two Size* : 25 and 50 cents 
Sample and Booklet, "The Sanitary Home," FREE 
HENRY B. PL ATT, 42 Cliff St., New York 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Casserole ami Cover 

2qt., $1.75; 1 qt.. Sl.^iO; 1 pt., 8Sc. 




Pie Plate 

8»s ios., 75c.: Sins., 65c. 




Oval "Individual" Baker 35c. 




Custard Cup 

3^5 ins., 20c. ; 3 ins.. I5c. 




Au Gratiii, 70c. 



Oh, the ]oy of 
baking m glass! 

— oaking is swift 

—food retains all its flavor 

— work is light 

— cost is low 

— kitchen is clean 

—table is dainty ana pretty 

PYREX 

Trade Mxrk Reg. 

Glass Dishes for Baking 

are made by a new-process glass that withstands the heat of the hottest 
oven and gives quicker, more thorough, more uniform baking. You 
actually see the food while it is baking. No odors, grease, nor flavors 
are absorbed. The dishes, taken from the oven and placed just as they 
are on the table, yield their contents piping hot, savory, delightfully 
rich in flavor. And how easily these glass dishes are washed! Not 
a particle of dirt eludes your eye. The food does not cling — in a trice 
you have the dishes polished to a sparkling purity. Pyrex dishes save 
you time, work, fuel (money), pantry space (fewer dishes). Mrs. 
Rorer and many other leading cookery experts use Pyrex exclusively. 
Booklet on request showing the wide range of dishes that may be 
baked in Pyrex. Ask your department, china or hardware store to 
get these Pyrex Glass Dishes for you — or write to any of the following 
stores and they will supply you: 




Bread Pan, 75c. 
Prices somewhat higher in the far West and Canada 



Hochschild Kohn & Co., Baltimore 

Jordan Marsh & Co.. Boston 

Fred'k Loeser & Co.. Broolilyn 

Wm. Hengerer Co.. Buffalo 

Marshall Field & Co.. Chicago 

John Shillito Company. Cincinnati 

The Geo. H. Bowman Co.. Cleveland 

Denver Dry Goods Co., Denver 

J. L. Hudson & Co., Detroit 

L. S. Ayres & Co , Indianapolis 

Emery Bird Thayer, Kansas City 

Bullock's, Los Angeles 

Stewart Dry Goods Co.. Louisville 

Gimbcl Bros.. Milwaukee 

J. S. Donaldson Co., Minneapolis 



CORNING GLASS WORKS Established 1868 



Bamberger's, Newark, N. J. 
Gimbcl Bros., New York City 
Orchard & Wilheim Co.. Omaha 
Gimbel Bros., Philadelphia 
Ktufmann Store, Pittsburgh 
Meier & Frank Co., Portland, Ore. 
Olds. Wortman & King. Portland. Ore. 
Miller & Rhoades. Richmond, Va. 
Sibley, Lindsay & Curr, Rochester 
Famous & Barr Co., St. Louis 
Keith-O'Brien & Co.. Salt Lake City 
Nathan-Dohrmann Co., San Francisco 
Frederick Sc Nelson, Seattle 
Woodward & Lothrop, Washington 

CORNING, N. Y., u. s. A. 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes. 

321 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



confessed. "I — I wanted our Thanks- 
giving dinner here. I didn't want to 
give up exploring just as I was begin- 
ning to find — But you knew it, too!" 
she finished as if the wonder of it had 
just reached her. 

"Was that the only reason? But that 
isn't fair — let me tell you why I didn't 
tell. I was glad for an excuse not to go 
— on that exploring trip. "I know I 
ought to have gone like a man," he con- 
tinued, his tone bitter against himself, 
* 'especially when I saw that it was a 
relief to you. But I — Betty, Betty, 
I didn't want to leave you!" 

**0h, Monty!" she whispered: 

And they clung together, these fool- 
ish young things, Betty's tear- wet cheek 
crushed against his. "I've felt so ter- 
ribly selfish all day long," she con- 
fessed presently. "And it is a shame 
for you to miss such a lovely chance," 
she added a little wistfully. 

"No trip could mean to me what 
having my wife wish me to remain with 
her does," declared Monty, lifting his 
young head proudly. "Oh, Betty, you 
darling! You darling!" 

For a moment they remembered only 
each other. The little grey woman and 
her grandmother's blue dishes were for- 
gotten, with the rest of the world and the 
fulness thereof. 

Then: "No doubt it is just as well," 



Elizabeth said, "they might not have 
allowed you to go, you know, dear!" 
And they laughed together with an 
understanding whose wonder was as 
deep as its content. 

For each perceived, that, orders or no, 
during their brief stay in the humble, 
snow-engulfed little cottage they had 
wandered far within the enchanted 
country. 

What Life Has Taught Me 

{From a layman's letter to a minister.) 

I have learned to esteem truth above 
all things; to believe that this is a 
spiritual universe ; that faith in God and 
in man always justifies itself; that good- 
will is the bond which binds man to 
man, and man to God; that man may be 
co-worker with God in bringing cosmos 
out of chaos; that the humblest service 
may be infinitely worth while; that the 
beauty of the visible world and all that 
is fine and high in our inner life are 
proof of the Divine and the Immortal; 
that clear thinking and right action give 
man a sufficient and self -rewarding task, 
and earn him a place in the universe; 
that neither this world nor the world to 
come has anything for the right- 
minded man to fear; that the possibil- 
ities of life here and hereafter in beauty 
and in service are infinite. 



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Distinctive little people wear | 





easy to pick out Velvet Grip children 



HOSE SUPPORTERS 

Their hosiery is kept neat and 
trim all day. They may run or 
play freely without frequent tug- 
ging at loose or falling stockings. 

The only hose supporter with the 
Oblong Rubber Button 

which prevents drop stitches. 

Sample pair of Pin-ons for Children 15c. 
postpaid f pive age), hnniple '.et of four 
Sew-ons for Women 50c. postpaid. 
GEORGE PROST CO., Makers, BOSTON 




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Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 
322 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




Convenience saves much 

The convenience of Carnation Milk saves time — work — worry — money. If for no 
other reason than its convenience you should keep on your pantry shelves a good supply 
of Carnation Alilk. Much greater, however, than its constant convenience, you 
will find its purity, quality, economy and safety. 

CleanSvoeei—Pnre From Contented Cows 

Carnation Milk is just pure, sweet, fresh, cow's milk, evaporated to the consistency 
of cream, hermetically sealed and sterilized to retain its purity and wholesomeness 
and to prevent contamination. When you open it, it is as rich and sweet as when 
fresh from the cow — nothing has been taken out but water; nothing has been added. 

Use it in coffee, for all cooking and baking, for the table; give it to the children. 
Once you realize by actual trial how convenient it is and how economical it is, you 
will use it always. 

Order it from your grocer, "The Carnation Milkman." 
Use the coupon below and secure a free copy of our 
new cook book. 




Pacific Coast Condensed Milk Co. 

334 Stuart Bldg., SEATTLE. WASH., U. 5. A. 
Please send me your new cook book, filled with 
special evaporated milk recipes and containing **The 
Story of Carnation Milk," as *^ *" "" """' 

ihe San Francisco Exposition. 



it is demonstrated at 



Nc 



Address. 



I 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 
323 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




To Make ' - 
Your Cake Delicious 

For that delicate, tempt- 
ing flavor which blends so 
smoothly all through the 
cake and makes every 
crumb a treat— use 




ViOlNIILl!^ 



Then you'll be sure of 
results — every time— 
because Burnett's 
has always and in 
every bottle the same 
rich, fragrant, match- 
less delicacy of true 
Mexican vanilla. 



ALSO 

Almond 
Lemon 

Fresh 
Fruit 
Extracts 
etc 



Try This Simple Charlotte 

Onehalf pint of cream, whipped stiff, 2 scant 
tablespoons of powdered sugar, Y2 teaspoon 
of Burnett's Vanilla. Serve with split lady- 
fingers or slices of sponge cake. 

Many unusual desserts are easily made and 
are always palatable when you flavor them 
with this real vanilla— so different from the 
coarse, sharp flavor of imitation extracts or 
the heavy, dark rankness of those made of 
low quality beans. 

Write for our booklet of 115 recipes — sent 
free if you mention your grocer's name. 

JOSEPH BURNETT CO. 

Dept. K. 36 India Street, Boston, Mass. 



Seasonable Recipes 

(Concluded from page 296) 
marshmallows in halves; let them stand 
a few minutes in maraschino from a 
cherry bottle, then use with one or two 
bits of cherry to fill the open spaces in 
the little cakes; return the rounds 
of cake taken out to close the cases, 
then dip each cake in melted fondant 
flavored with vanilla and orange ex- 
tract. Whipped cream may be used in 
place of the marshmallows. 

Fondant 

Melt two cups of granulated sugar 
in half a cup of boiling water; with the 
tips of the fingers, or a brush wet re- 
peatedly in cold water, wash down the 
sides of the saucepan; cover the pan 
and let the syrup cook about five min- 
utes; remove the cover and let boil to 
238° F., or until a soft ball may be 
formed when the syrup is tested in cold 
water. Have ready a marble or large 
platter, the latter lifted on a rack that 
air may pass below it, rubbed over with 
a cloth wet in cold water. Pour the 
syrup on the platter without allowing 
the last of the syrup to drop upon it. 
Let stand undisturbed until the syrup is 
cool enough to hold the impress of the 
knuckle pressed into it. Work the 
candy back and forth with a wooden 
spatula until it turns to a smooth 
creamy mass; gather it together, while 
still warm and moist, into a ball, knead 
with the hands and press into a bowl. 
If the candy becomes firm before it is 
kneaded, wring a cloth out of cold 
water and press it close upon the fondant 
to exclude the air; let stand about half 
an hour, then knead, all at once or a 
small portion at a time, and press into 
a bowl. Cover the bowl with a cloth 
wrung- out of cold water, and then with 
paper. Store in a cool place. The 
damp cloth that covers the bowl should 
not touch the candy; strict attention 
must be given to this point. 

How to Use Fondant 

Melt a portion or the whole of the 
fondant in a double boiler (over warm 



Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes. 

324 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




SYCeans 



Whether heated by electricity, alcohol or on the 
range the principle in Manning-Bowman percola- 
tors is the same. The patented valve construction 
circulates the maximum amount of water that can be 
passed through the ground coffee and therefore 
makes best coffee. Starting with cold water, you 



can make coffee of a much superior quality as quickly as the ordinary 
percolators will starting with hot water. Made in pot and urn styles. 



P^ Tea Ball Tea Pots 



Tea Ball Tea Pot 
No. 10173 



Tea made in Manning-Bowman Tea Ball Pots is just what you desire 
it to be — weak or strong, with all the fine full flavor and aroma. The 
strength of the tea is regulated by the movable tea ball. This prevents 
the tea from becoming stronger as it stands. Both pot and urn styles. 

it Alcohol Gas Stove Chafing Dishes — 

"Alcolite" Burner 





This chafing dish will prove one 
of the most convenient cooking utensils you can have in 
your home. The "Alcolite" Burner has doubled its utility 
because it has the cooking power of a gas range. Many 
articles of food that were heretofore cooked in the kitchen 
can now be prepared right on the dining table. Burner is easi- 
ly lighted, perfectly regulated and is odorless and sootless. 
The electric styles have many features and advantages 
that are exclusive to this make. 



Chafing Dish and Set 
No. 386/103 



rt Electric Toaster 

The most useful of all electric de- 
vices for the table. Makes crisp, gold- 
en-brown toast in a minute or two. 



Electric Toaster 
No. 1210 



Artides that make up the line of Manning-Bowman Ware can be examined at 
jewelry, hardware, housefurnishing and department stores. 

For free book of chafing dish recipes write for catalogue L.-40. Address 

MANNING, BOWMAN & CO., Meriden, Conn. 

Makers of Nickel Plate, Solid Copper and Aluminum Ware 




Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes. 
325 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Think ofihe choicest 

orn on the cob 

you ever tasted 



^ 



■J 






— Thfit think of . a food which is the milk 
the green com kernel, nothing but the mi 
and you have an idea of the flavor of Kornlet. 

Kornlet 

In making- Kornlet, we use only an ex- 
tra fine variety of sweet corn, that 
grows best in one particular region. 
Kornlet is so delightful in flavor that 
it tempts everyone. It is unusually 
digestible and concentrated nourish- 
ment. 
Many uses— Recipe Book Free 

Write for the Kornlet Recipe Book and | 

try Kornlet Soup, Waffles, Fritters, Cro- Kv 

quettes, Pudding, etc. They are delicious. ^ 

In writing, mention your grocer's name. 

Order of your grocer— Many good grrocers handle Kornlet. 

If yours doesn't, and you can't find it at some other store, send 

grocer's name and 25c (stamps) for full-size trial can, prepaid. 

The Haserot Canneries Company 
Dept 2 9 Cleveland, Ohio 



.:Ko 



i^V 



<^mmi 



THEIDEALi 

FLOUa 

FOR 
BISCUIT CAKE t^"" PASTRY 

Endorsed by^ many Physicians and Expert Domestic 
Science Teachers 

Sept. 25. 1915. 
I feel sure that the many compliments I have received 
on my Pastry ,_ Cake and Biscuits is largely due to your 
"White Puff" Flour. In all my years of _ cooking I 
have never used a flour equal to "White Puff" for light, 
flaky Cake and Biscuits, and my pies are simply delicious. 
Before, 1 found it difficult to make a light delicate pie-crust, 
but thanks to "White Puff" 1 shall have no more trouble. 
"White Puff" is also very economical as I use only one- 
half the regular shortening necessary with other flours. I will 
soon need some more "White Puff," and 1 am telling all 
my friends it doesn't pay to be without it. 

Sincerely yours, (Mrs.) E. G. GUNSTON, 

Shedd St., Lowell, Mass. 

Shortening destroys the wheat flavor and is costly. You 
save one half your shortening with "White Puff" and you 
get lighter, less greasy, better-tasting food. 

Ask your grocer for White Puff Flour or write to 
WM. S. HILLS COMPANY, Boston, Mass. 



water), adding meanwhile, while beating 
constantly, a few drops of water or 
sugar syrup. Beat constantly while the 
fondant is melting and between each 
dipping of cakes or other use to which 
the fondant may be put. The cakes 
may be dipped in the fondant or it may 
be poured over them with a spoon. 



Keep Advertising 

One step won't take you very far. 
You've got to keep on walking. 
One word won't tell folks who you are. 
You've got to keep on talking. 

One inch won't make you very tall, 
You've got to keep on growing, 
One little ad won't do it all. 
You've got to keep them going. E. 



The Same Old Story 

They were all sitting around, telling 
funny anecdotes, says the San Francisco 
Argonaut. And they were all good 
friends but two — the cleverest girl in 
the crowd and the runner-up for those 
honors. Those two hated each other 
naturally. The cleverest girl told a 
humorous story, and it was received 
with great applause. When the laugh- 
ter had ceased the deadly rival said: 
"My goodness! That story is at least 
forty years old!" The other one didn't 
blink. 

Worth Trying 

In San Francisco, the N. Y. Times 
says, they tell of a resourceful clergy- 
man, never at a loss for a retort. 

He was once called to the bedside of 
a very wealthy but stingy man, who 
thought at the time he was dying. 

"If,", he gasped to the clergyman, 
"if I leave several thousand to the 
church, will my salvation be assured?" 

Whereupon the divine responded: 

*T wouldn't like to be too positive, 
but it's well worth trying." 



" Did Bibbs give his wife her new car 
voluntarily?" "I rather think it was a 
case of auto-suggestion." — Baltimore 
American. 



Buy advertised Goods] — Do not accept substitutes. 
326 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Irai wiord 




One Little Motion: push that 
cool knob to ''Kindle", ''Bake" or "Check" 
— the range does the rest. It's the Single 
Damper Control, and it's a marvel. 

And that Wonderful Oven, with its perfect, 
even heat and perfect baking — thanks 
to the Single Damper Control and the 

curved cup-joint Heat Flue. 

Then there's the Ash Hod — deep, easy to re- 
move, doesn't spill — and Coal Hod beside it. 

Gas ovens attached if desired. 
Ask the Crawford Agent to show you and write 
as for illustrated circulars. 

WALKER 4 PRATT MFG. CO., Makers 

31-35 Union Street, Boston 







FOR 

Milk Desserts and Ice Cream 

Nesnah is new and different from all other prep- 
arations on the market, it is powdered Junket 
Tablets v^th the sweetening and flavoring added. 

Nesnah has been prepared with scientific care 
to meet the needs of people who are looking for 
good nourishing things to eat, and having in mind 
the busy ones, who with a package of Nesnah 
and some milk can easily and quickly have a 
dainty dessert or ice cream. 

KEEP A PACKAGE IN THE PANTRY 

FOR EMERGENCIES 



SIX PURE FRUIT FLAVORS 

Vanilla Chocolate Lemon 

Orange Raspberry j^lmond 



A Post Card will bring a Free Sample and a Booklet oi Redpcs 



CHR. HANSEN'S LABORATORY, Inc. 

Box 2507 
LITTLE FALLS, N. Y. 



m\ 



iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiniiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiin 

LEARN TO COOK | 
WITH A THERMOMETER I 



The importance of having proper tem- 
peratures in cooking, from an Economi- 
cal and Efficiency standpoint, is being 
recognized more and more by Cooking 
Authorities and Domestic Science 
Teachers. 

Modern cookbooks give exact 
degrees of temperature in num- 
erous recipes, eliminating all 
guess work and the consequent 
waste of material, time and 




fuel. 



"WILDER" 



Accurate Thermometers 

For Candies and Boiled Frostin^t 

use No. 692 $1.00 

For Determinms the Temperatnre 
of yonr Fireless Cooker Radia- 
tors ose No. 980 . . . .85 
^ No. 974 For Re^nlatintr the Temperature 
m of the Oren use No. 974 . 1.00 

M If your dealer will not supply you with a 
= " Wilder." we will do so direct on receipt 
^ of the price and the dealer's name. _ 

g Write for further information No. 980 | 

I CHARLES WILDER CO. | 

1 508 Fulton Street TROY, N. Y. 1 

I iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 




Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes. 

327 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



JONES, McDUFFEE & STRATTON CO. 

Table Crockery, 
China and Glass 

Adapted to Thanksgiving 




TURKEY PLATTERS. — Large and extraordinarily 
large platters on which to serve the national bird or 
joint of beef ; also plates to match. 

DINNER SETS or CHINA DINNER WARE of all 

grades taken from our large assortment of Stock Pat- 
terns enable the purchaser to select just the articles 
desired without being obliged to purchase the articles 
not required at the time, with the added advantage of 
being able to obtain matchings or additional pieces 
of the same pattern later on. 

We also offer other patterns of Dinner Sets, 112 
pieces, from $9.00 per set; 44 piece sets, $5.50 per 
set and upwards. 



Entree Sets 

($3.75 up to $88) 

Fish Sets 

($12 up to $65) 

After Dinner Coffee Sets 

($5 to $30) 



Salad Sets 

($3.25 up to $50) 
Ice Cream Sets 

($5 up to $40) 
Game Sets 

($7.50 up to $135) 



Single Dozens of High-Class China Plates 
for Course Dinners 

New and Attractive Pieces 

Cut Crystal Glass 

Table Decorations, with Large Centre Vase and Corner 

Vases with connecting Glass Chains 

Finger Bowls — Vases — Cocktails — Roemers — 

Sorbets — Creme de Meathes — Cordials— Lemonades 

— Champagnes — Hocks — Decanters — Carafes, etc. 

Kitchen Ware Department 

Comprising everything pertaining to the home in 
this line, adapted for the family, club, hotel, yacht, 
public institution, including new French Porcelain 
Souffle Dishes, Shirred Egg Dishes, Egg Poachers, 
Cafetieres, Casseroles, Cocottes. 

Jones, McDuffee£k Stratton Co. 

CROCKERY. CHINA AND GLASS 

(10 Floors) 
WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

33 Franklin Street, Boston 

Near Washln|{ton and Summer Sta. 



Hints on Home Dry Cleaning 

What is known as dry cleaning used 
to be considered an operation that re- 
quired professional skill and knowledge 
to carry out. Articles that could not be 
properly cleansed in the home laundry 
with soap and water or to which soap 
and water were injurious were pre- 
scribed a dry cleaning treatment and 
sent away to the cleaning works. That 
was because the process was not under- 
stood and the preparation used by the 
cleaners to work in the gasoline could 
not be procured. 

This, however, is not the case today. 
Dry cleaning has been robbed of its 
secrecy and the necessary preparations 
are easily procurable at any drug store. 
The operation is simple enough, far less 
laborious than laundering, because gaso- 
line used with such a preparation is a 
wonderfully quick and effective cleans- 
ing agent. 

A woman can clean lace, gloves, furs, 
embroidery, waists, etc., in a very short 
time and have them ready to put on as 
soon as dry. Besides saving time and 
money it saves the article itself and adds 
greatly to the length of its life. 



Finding a lady reading "Twelfth 
Night," a facetious doctor asked, "When 
Shakespeare wrote about 'Patience on a 
monument,' did he mean doctors' pa- 
tients?" "No," said the lady, "you find 
them under the monuments, not on 
them." — Contributed. 



One essential of good bread is 

Fleischmann's Yeast 

Always reliable and uniform, fresh, 
clean and strong. Makes baking 
easy and helps to insure good re- 
sults. Our new recipe book free 
on request. ^^^^^^ 

The Fleischmann Company 



701 Washington Street 



New York City 



Buy advertised Goods — Do ,not>ccept substitutes. 

328 



ADVERTISEMENTS 




NEW Book of 
Knox Gelatine 

Recipes is just out — 
we will send it to you 

FREE 

Besides the NEW recipes 
for Desserts, Salads, 
Puddings, Candies, Ice 
Creams and Ices, this 
book contains the very 
latest in Table Setting 
and Serving. Valuable re- 
cipes, too, for the Invalid 
and Convalescent. 

This is one of the NEW 
IDEAS from the NEW BOOK 

A SALAD-DESSERT 

1 envelope Knox 2 tablespoonfuls 

Sparkling Gelatine lemon juice 

% cup cold water ^ cup sugar 

2 cups boiling water 1 teaspoonful salt 

H cup mild vinegar 3 cups fresh fruit, cut 

in small pieces 
Soak gelatine in cold water five min- 
utes, and add boiling water, vinegar, 
lemon juice, sugar, and sait. Strain, 
and when mixture begins to stiffen, 
add fruit, usmg cherries, oranges, ba- 
nanas, or cooked pineapple, alone or 
in combination. Turn into mold, first 
dipped in cold water, and chill. Re- 
move from mold to nest of crisp lettuce 
leaves, and accompany with mayon- 
naise or boiled salad dressing. 

Remember, the 

NEW BOOK IS FREE 

Just send us your grocer's 
name. If you wish a PINT 
SAMPLE, enclose a 2c stamp. 

CHAS. B. KNOX CO., Inc. 

407 Knox Ave., Johnstown, N. Y. 




THERE are only two ways you can 
get Cocoanut with its full, rich^ 
natural Jiavor — buy a Cocoanut and 
laboriously grate it, or get 




This new product is the result of our new 
method of preparation. It avoids the hard, 
"candled" effect. It is delivered to you in an 
"Ever-Sealed" Package which assures fresh, 
moist Cocoanut all the way to the bottom. 

This Cocoanut received Gold Medals, highest awards 
at San Francisco and San Diego Elxpositions, 

lOc Cookie- Cutter FREE 

Send us your name and address and the name of your grocer and 
5c (stamps or coin) partially to p)ay postage and packing and we 
will send you a "One-Cake" size package of Dromedary Cocoa- 
10c Cookie- Cutter and a Cocoanut Recipe Book. 




Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes. 
329 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




How to 

Dry Clean 

Fine Waists 

and Laces 

Wash the article in a mixture of Putnam Dry-Cleaner 
and gasoline. Rinse in gasoline to which handful of 
fiour has been added if article is white; rinse again in 
clear gasoline and when dry, dust out flour. 
Clean your gloves, furs, silks, dress goods, woolens, 
curtains, etc., with Putnam Dry-Cleaner. The easy, sim- 
ple, inexpensive and effective way. It won't harm the 
most delicate fabrics. 

Your Druggist sells Putnam Dry-Cleanei^25c and 50c bot- 
tles. If he can't supply you, write us— we will send 
bottle, postpaid, for 25c. 

Don't accept substitutes — demand the genuine. 

FRF F booklet—* 'The Secret of Dry Cleaning' ' 
■ *^**«^ —also blotters, calendar or fan. 

Monroe Drug Co. Depl. J, Quincy, IlL 



Domestic Science 

Hoxne-Stvidy Coxirses 

Food, Health, Housekeeping, Clothing, Children. 
For Homemakers, Teachers and for 
well-paid positions. 
"THE PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING." 100 
page handbook, FREE. Bulletins : *' Free Hand 
Cooking," 10 cents. "Food Values," 10 cents, 
"The Up-to-Date Home," 15 cents. 

m. SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS, 503 W. 69fh St., CHICAGO 



AN IDEAL CHRISTMAS 

THIS HANDY GRINDER ONLY 52M 

Needed in every home. Just the thing 
for sharpening knives, scissors, hatchets, 
etc. Fastens to table or shelf. Turns 
easy with one hand. Geared for high 
speed. Gears enclosed makes it per- 
fectly safe. Corundum Grinding Wheel 
gives keen edge. Knife guide insures 
even grinding. Fully guaranteed. Money 
back if not satisfactory. Sent prepaid to 
any address for $2.00 or with our famous 
2-in- 1 Flour Sifter (regular price $1 .00) 
for only $2.50. 




IN-1 



FLOUR d»1 00 
SIFTER «pljir 

{Tested and approved by 
Good Housekeeping Institute) 
Made of glass. Sanitary — easy to 
clean. Has two compartments 
with sifter between. Sift flour, 
then turn sifter and re-sift as often 
as desired. No trouble, no waste, 
little work. Far better, cleaner, 
easier, more economical than old 
method. 

Sent prepaid upon receipt of 
$1 .00 (or three for $2.00). or 
with Grinder, for only $2.50. 
Every housewife needs them 
both. Order today. 

Agents and Dealers Wanted 
Wiite for our liberal proposition 

WESTERN HARDWARE MFG. CO. 
858 THIRD ST.. MILWAUKEE. WIS. 




OUR TWO 
BEST PREMIUMS 

This Chafer is a full-size, three-pint, copper dish, 
nickel plated, with all the latest improvements, in- 
cluding handles on the hot water pan. Can be 
furnished copper finish if desired. 

Sent to any present subscriber^ as a premium^ for 
securing and sending us seven (7) new yearly sub- 
scriptions to American Cookery at $/.oo each. Ex- 
press charges to be paid by receiver. Cash price $J.OO 



A Set of Three 

Steel Drawn Moulds 

For Jellies, Puddings, Custards, etc. 

Are so shaped that the contents readily comes out in perfect condition. 

These moulds ordinarily sell for 25c. pint size, 40c. pint and a half, and 60c. for quart size. 

We have combined the three sizes into a set, and will send a set (either oval or round but not 
assorted shapes), prepaid, to any present subscriber^ as a premiicmy for securing and sending us one (1) 
hew yearly subsciption to American Cookery at$i.oo. Cash price 6jc. 

The Boston Cooking School Magazine Co.^ Boston, Mass. 





Buy advertised Goods 



- Do not accept substitutes. 
330 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



RECIPES 



Fannie Merritt Farmer 

Author of " Tlie Boston 
Cooking School Cook Book" 




Containing 365 original Menus and Recipes, one 
for each day in the year. Handsome cover in art 
paper, printed in gold, blue and light green. Each 
page has an artistic border design printed in two 
colors; This is by far the most elaborate calendar 
of its kind ever placed upon the market. 

Price 60c, boxed 

At all places where calendars are sold, or 
sent postpaid upon receipt of price 



SULLY AND KLEINTEICH 

373 Fourth Avenue, New York 



These trademark 

Crcsc( 



package 

larlcy 



Crystals 

FoiusesofStomac^ 

Oeiiclooj looay^ 
Uk joor pt||/lin. 


lea^n Grocea 


'^yrm dessert 

>EAL FOODS 
.KidIKiindLiveiTioiiles 

. uV outer gMtt 
>^6«oli tS^t. trm 


FARWELL A RHINOS. 


WATERl 


TOWN, ^ v.. U.S. A. 



Use This Chest FREE 

Moth 
Proof 
Cedar 
Chest 

15 Days' 

Free 

Trial 

HEDUCJUD riilCES. ^— . „ 

Ir.e famous Piedmont line Anv of Hk^ Factory 

our KjO --tyles and designs sent on 15 days' ■» Prices 

free tnal. We pay the freight. A Piedmont Freight 

protects ftirs, woolens and pltunes from moths. Frepatd 

mice, dust and damp Dueinctivelv beautiful. Charmitpgly frasrant. 
A real money and won>- saver. Practically everlasting. Finest Xmas, 
birthday or weddinj gift at great saving." 

Write to-day for our great catalog. It is free to you. 
PIEDMONT RED CEDAR CHEST CO., Dept. 81, StatesriUe, N. C. 




Hk III 



■iiX 



X T 



JLA, 



□c: 



t) 



A 



How Much Does 
Your Baby Weigh ? 

As long as your baby . 
gains steadily every week "^ 
he is well. During his 
first year he should gain 
as follows: 
1 to 3 monlhx: 

Gain 6 to 8 ozs. a yceek 
3 to 6 months: 

Gain 4 to 6 ozs. a tree/. 
6 to 9 months: 

Gain 3 to 4 ozs. a 
9 to 12 months: 

Gain 2 to 3 oi«. a iceel-. 
He should double his 
weight in six months and 
triple it in a year. 

If your baby does not gain 
something is wrong with 
his food. Don't experiment 
with his delicate little 
stomach. Give him Gail 
Borden "Eagle Brand" 
Condensed Milk. 

'Eagle Brand" can be used economically 




EAjGLE 

Condensed 

MILK 



TMt ORIGINAL 



n your cooking. 
With it you can make rich ice cream, delicious cake, pies 
and desserts and dozens of appetite-tempting dishes. 
Grand Prize {Highest Atcard) and Gold Medal 

AWAKDED AT 

Panama-Pacific International Exposition 
at Saa Francisco on 
BORDEN'S MILK PRODUCTS 
"^ Borden's Condensed Milk Co. 
Est. 1857 "Leaders of Qaahty" New York 

BOKDEK'S CONDESSED MiLK Co., A.C. 11-15 

108 Hudson Street. >ew York. 

Please send me your helpful book, 

''Baby's Welfare," whii-h tells me how to 

keei)my baby well -and send also '"Bor- 

_^^»^^, den's Rei'ipes," your book of original 

/^^^%j recipes which show me how to save money 

' --^^'^ on my cooking. 

Name Addrp«9 




n — O r 



Ori — y-^n-^ 



Si 



Too Big a Problem 
For the Individual 

Demonstrating the relative value of ingredients used in 
food products is too big a problem for t->e individual. 
It is so big, in fact, that the U. S. Government v^eis 
asked to undertake the work. 

After consulting with the greatest Universities in the 
country, the President selected 

MEN YOU CAN TRUST 

Prof. Ira Remsen, John Hopkins University, Cheiirman 

Dr. John H. Long, Northwestern University. 

Prof. TTieobald Smith, Harvard University 

Dr. AJonzo E. Taylor, University of Pennsylvania 

Dr. Russell H. Chittenden. Sheffield Scientific School 

of Yale University 
After two years of study and research, they concluded 
that "Alum as such is not left in the food " and that 
"alum baking powders are no more injurious than other 
baking powders." U. S. Bulletin of Agriculturist 
No. 103. 

You can, therefore, with the utmost confidence use 
Baking Powders of the double acting type which con- 
tain phosphate and alum. 

CALUMET 

is a Phosphate Powder in which enough of the acid 
phosphate has been replaced by Sodium Alum (not the 
drug store alum) to insure its keeping qualities and give 
the desired speed of action. It is chemically correct. 

Pure in the can — pore in the baking 



IS 



ii 



CALUMET BAKING POWDER CO 
Chicago, IllinoU 



J 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes. 
331 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



g>«5g^Btt0ttB for OIl|n0tmaj8i (gtfta 



WOULD not many of your friends to whom you will make Christmas Gifts be 
pleased with a year's subscription to AMERICAN COOKERY than with 
other thing of equal cost you could send them? 
The magazine will be of practical use to the recipient 
365 days in the year and a constant and pleasant re- 
minder of the donor. 

To make this gift more complete, we will send the De- 
cember number so as to be received the day before Christ- 
mas, together with a card reading as per cut herewith. 

This card is printed in two colors on heavy stock and 
makes a handsome souvenir. 



more 
any 



Amrrlran (Hoakttn 



Send two new yearly subscriptions at $1,00 each 
and we will renew your own subscription, for 
one year from expiration, free, as premium 



Practical and Useful Cookery Books 

B^ MRS. JANET M. HILL, Editor of American Cookery 



The American Cook Book 



$1.00 



This book is for everyday use. For the most part the recipes are simple and concise, and 
just such as will be of assistance in preparing the regular family meals, but scattered through 
the book are a few recipes for choice dishes that will grace any feast. Each recipe has been 
tried and tried again, and is absolutely right. The directions are complete and easily fol- 
lowed. Using this book you are sure of success every time. 

Canning, Preserving and Jelly Making 1.00 

Modem methods of canning and jelly making have simplified and shortened preserving pro- 
cesses. In this book the latest ideas in canning, preserving and jelly making are presented. 



Practical Cooking and Serving 



1.50 



The recipes in this book have been tested by years of use at the author's home table, and by 
her pupils North and South, East and West. The composition of food is given at the head 
of chapters in which the several foods are specifically described. It holds recipes for both 
inexpensive and elaborate dishes. It is fully and finely illustrated. 

Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing Dish Dainties 1.50 

A new and revised edition of this popular work 

Cooking For Two - - - - 1.50 

Just the book for a small family 

The Up-To-Date Waitress - - - 1.50 

A guide to ideal service 

The Book of Entrees - - - 1.50 

Over 800 recipes, opening a new field of cookery and furnishing a solution of the problem 
of " left overs." 



A Year's Subscription 

to American Cookery 

and one of these 

books, $1.75. The 

Magazine and both 

books, $2.50 



A Year's Subscription 
to American Cookery 

and one of these 

books, $2.25. The 
Magazine and tw^o of 
these books, $3.50; 

three, $5.00 ; four, 
$6.00. All five books 

and the Magsusine, 
$7.00 



Any or all of the above books wilt be sent, postpaid, on receipt of price; 
and, if desired, a suit-ably inscribed Christmas Card will be sent with 
the book or books so as to be received the day before Christmas 



THE BOSTON COOKINC SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO., Boston, Mass. 



Buy advertised Goods— Do not accept substitutes. 
332 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Holstein Cows 

Are Noted for Health 

For over 2,000 years the Purebred Holstein cow has been 
developed by dairy experts who have not sacrificed the 
vitality of the breed. That a cow must have a strong 
vigorous constitution to give milk that imparts vitality is 
plain. You would not select as a wet nurse for your baby 
a weak puny woman, but a strong vigorous woman with a 
good ancestry and a healthy child. 

The most eminent authorities agree that the purebred 
Holstein cow is the most perfect milking animal known, 
having every characteristic of a cow suitable for producing 
an infant's milk supply, and that Holstein cows' milk 
comes nearer to human milk than that of any other breed. 

Holstein milk is naturally light colored. Don't imagine 
that yellow milk is better, for it isn't. Investigate the 
milk of this black-and-white cow. 

Ask your milk man for Holstein cows' milk. If he fails 
to provide you, send us his name and we will try to secure 
a supply for you. Send for our new free illustrated book- 
let, The Story of Holstein Milk." 




Holstein-Friesian Association of America 

F. L. HOUGHTON. Sec'y 
8-W American Building, Brattleboro. Vermont 





America's 

Most Famous 

Dessert 

For the most dainty, delicious 
and beautiful dishes at home 
and in the sick-room and hospital, use Jell-O. 

It has the combined qualities of the acid jellies 
and calves-foot jellies. It is not only exceedingly 
pleasing to the eye and of delightful flavor, but 
it greatly facilitates digestion and conserves the 
body's nitrogen. 

No fussy directions, no loss of time, no cook- 
ing, but just the making up of Jell-O in a minute 
in the easy Jell-O v^ay. 

Seven pure fruit flavors: 
Strawberry, Raspberry, Lemon, 
Orange, Cherry, Peach, Chocolate. 

10c. each at any grocer's. 

There is a little recipe book in 
every package. 

THE GENESEE PURE 

FOOD CO., 

Le Roy, N. Y., and 

Brideeburg, Can. 






No. 10 



A New Knife for Grape Fruit 



THE EMPIRE DOUBLE EDGE GRAPE 
FRUIT AND ORANGE KNIFE 

The blade of this knife is double edge, and is made from the finest cutlery steel, finely tempered, 
curved just right to fit the fruit, and will remove the center, cut cleanly and quickly around the edge 
and divide the fruit into segments ready for eating. 

The feature of the blade is the round end which prevents cutting through the outer sliin. A grape fruit 
knife is a necessity as grape fruit are growing so rapidly in popularity as a breakfast food. 

For sale by all dealers. Price 50 cents each. If not found at your dealer's, upon 
receipt of price a knife will be sent to any address postpaid by the Manufacturer 



THE EMPIRE KNIFE CO. 



Winsted, Conn. 



Sensible Christinas Gifts for Housekeepers 
LADD MIXERS 




No. 1, 1 qt. — No. 2, 2 qts. — especially 
made, clear glass urns, fluted sides. LADD 
BEATERS insert into and remove from same : 
only ones thus made. We warrant they $ave 
eggs. Positively Best and Most Beauti- 
ful Made, By Parcel Post : 

No. 1, $1.75, East of Rocky Mt. States. 
No. 1, 2.00. Rocky Mt. States and West 
No. 2, 2.50, East of Rocky Mt. States 
No. 2. 2.85, Rocky Mt. States and West 

CANVASSING AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE 



"SATURN" 

CLOTHESLINE REEL 

A round Steel Ball — dust proof, 
nickel plated — warranted 40 ft. 
line, tested to 180 lbs. — takes 
present clothes-pin. Use out-door 
or in -door. Hangs any where. Two 
spreading rings. Positively the best 
made at any price. Sent Parcel 
Post: Nickeled finish, 50c.: nickel, 
ed and polished, 65c. 

LIBERAL PROFITS QUICK SALES 




PLEASE WRITE 

UNITED ROYALTIES CORPORATION, 1133 G Broadway, New York 



Buy advertised Goods 



— Do not accept substitutes. 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



High Living 
Thanksgiving Day 

This is the season when we take 
account of our blessings and return 
thanks for them. Thanksgiving Day 
is, from time-honored custom, celebrat- 
ed as a fe^ival for the enjoyment of all. 
Spread your table with good things, 
tempting viands and dishes which 
please the appetite. Make your menu 
complete and satisfying by including 



Moss 

Farine, 



^"DEUCIOUS and NUTRITIOUS. 

A commendable feature of this 
Pure Food produd: is that it lends itself 
readily to every course from Soup to 
Desert. Recipes with every package show 
how easily you can prepare many unusual 
dishes, besides good, old fashioned Blanc 
Mange, Custards, Jellies etc. 

High Living 
--with Sea Moss Farine- - 

is Right Living, too. No ill effedts after- 
ward. Sea Moss Farine dige^s so quickly 
that the weakest ^omach can assimilate it 
without distress. Try a package to-day. 

Sample and Mrs. Lemcke's Book of 
75 Recipes mailed on request, FREE, 

A 25c. packet yields sixteen quarts 
of T>elicious 'Dessert ^Dishes. 

SOLD BY GROCERS or MAILED BY US. 



LYON MFG. CO., 

38 South Fifth St., 

BROOKLYN, N.Y. 




$200^0 IN PRIZES 

One hundred and two prizes will be given for 
the best recipes in which the well-known coloring 
and flavoring extract. Kitchen Bouquet, could be 
used in preparing soups, fish, meats, gravies, sauces, 
etc. It is not a condition that Kitchen Bouquet be 
added to your recipe, merely a suggestion. We 
want recipes for delicious dishes which can be 
easily prepared along these lines. 

The contest is open to everyone. All recipes 
must be in our hands on or before December 1. 1915. 
The judges will be Eleonora L. JNIunroe. Cooking 
Editor of Pictorial Review. Ida Cogswell Bailey- 
Allen, Cooking Editor of Good Housekeeping. W. G. 
Lentz, President of the Palisade Mfg. Co. 



The prizes are : 




1 prize of - • - - 


$25.00 


2 prizes of • - - - 


10.00 


8 prizes of - - - - 


5.00 


16 prizes cf - - - • 


2:50 


75 prizes of - - - - 


1.00 



Every condition of the contest is given in 
this notice. We cannot answer any questions. 



^dienMimet, 



CReg. U. S Pat Off.) 

A FREE sample bottle sent on request 

THE PALISADE MFG. CO., 353 Clinton Ave.,W. H6boken, NJ. 




Highest Quality at Lowest Price 



EISEY'Bl 



^GLASiWARE 



A. H. HEISEY & CO 



DEPT. 56 



NEWARK 




Goose Down Cushion Free 

Wriie today for our strictly limited offer on genuine 

Soatheni Live Goose Feather Pillows. All new 

Goose Feathers. Down cushion, large size, free. 

Splendid special offer. Write for catalog. 

Live Goose Feather Co., Dept. 20, Statesville, N.C. 



POMPEIAN 

OLIVE OIL 

ALWAYS FRESH 
PURE -SWEET- WHOLESOME 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes. 
334 



ADVERTISEMENTS 



Recipes fbir 
lavorite Candies 




Tayfor 

..-jTie Can4y- Makers 

THERMOMETER, 



8 Kinds Fudge 6 Kinds Taffy 

Are among the thirty tested and tried Home Candy Recipes 
in booklet of 32 pages by Mrs. Claudia Quigley Murphy, 
Consultant in Home Economics, gives food value and general 
information regarding Home Made Candy — Mailed free upon 
receipt of name and address. 

Taylor Thermometer and Recipe Booklet, $1.00 Postpaid, if not at Dealer's. 
AN ACCEPTABLE CHRISTMAS GIFT. 

Taylor Instrument Companies Rochester, N. Y. 

There's a Tycos or Taylor Thermometer for every purpose. 



I ESSONS IN COOKING SSr.r'iS'.'^C: 

"^266 iea«onable menu* with detailed recipes and full directions for pre- 
BMing eacK meal. Food Economy, Balanced Diet, Men.n for all Occa- 
sions, Special Articles, etc. Bound in waterproof leatherette, 4S0 pp. 



Illustrated. Sent on approval for 50c and 60c for 4 montha or $2 Cs 

Sample Pag»» Free. 
American School of Home Economics, 603 W. 69th St., Chicago, BL 



KELSEV 
HEALTH 
HEAT 




11 

EH 



THE Kelsey Heat has no 
ugly, room-taking radia- 
tors to sis, sizzle and 
leak. That's one reason why I 
recommend the Kelsey to you. 

Two or three of the other 
reasons are: it both heats and 
ventilates at the same time. 

It saves coal. If it saues 
coal, it saves money. 

All I ask right now is a 
chance to tell you how much 
it will save for you, and why it 
saves it. 

Send for Booklet, " Some 
Saving Sense on Heating." 

THE KELSEY 

J. A. CHRISTIAN 

Boston Representative 
267 Centre St., Dorchester District 

Phone Dorchester 4992-W 

TRASK HEATING CO., Haymarket Square 



Salt Mackerel 



CODFISH, FRESH LOBSTER 


FOR THE \^ 
CONSUMER ^ 


^^ . NOT THE 
.^i^-"^ DEALER 


FOR YOUR 


OWN TABLE 



FAMILIES who are fond of FISH can be supplied 
DIRECT from GLOUCESTER, MASS., by the FRANK E. 
DAVIS COMPANY, with newly caught KEEPABLE OCEAN 

FISH choicer than any inland dealer could possibly furnish. 

We sell ONLY TO THE CONSUMER DIRECT, sending 
by EXPRESS RIGHT TO YOUR HOME. We PREPAY 

express on all orders east of Kansas. Our fish are pure, ap- 
petizing and economical and we want YOU to try some, pay- 
ment subject to your approval. 

SALT MACKEREL, fat, meaty, juicy fish, are 4elicious for 
breakfast. They are freshly packed in brine and will not spoil 
on your hands. 

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AMERICAN COOKERY 





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Bxinted hy Galen J. Perrett for Cream of Wheat Co. Copyright 1915 by Cream of Wheat Co. 



Buy advertised Goods — Do not accept substitutes 
337 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



Vol. XX 



DECEMBER, 1913 



No. 3 



CONTENTS FOR DECEMBER 

PAGE 

MENUS FOR CHRISTMAS DAY 345 

FROM THE SAND-AGE TO THE LAWN-AGE (Illustrated) 

Stella Burke May 347 

THE MESSAGE L. Adelaide Sherman 351 

A TRIAL BY COFFEE Ladd Plumley 352 

MISS NANCY'S CHRISTMAS BOX .... Alix Thorn 357 

CHRISTMAS LaHa MitcheH 361 

THE WISDOM OF SOLOMON .... Esther G. Babson 362 

A CHRISTMAS DREAM Helen Coale Crew 365 

EDITORIALS 366 

SEASONABLE RECIPES (Illustrated with half-tone engravings 

of prepared dishes) Janet M. Hill 369 

MENUS FOR WEEK IN DECEMBER . . . „ „ „ 878 
MENUS FOR DINNERS AND LUNCHEONS FOR YULE- 
TIDE Janet M. Hill 379 

FOOD AND FEEDING „ „ „ 380 

CARVING CHRISTMAS MEATS . Eleanor Robbins Wilson 382 
HOME IDEAS AND ECONOMIES — Quotations to Accom- 
pany Gifts — The Small, Edible Christmas Tree — A Culinary 

Symphony — Holiday Cookies, etc., etc 384 

QUERIES AND ANSWERS 388 

THE SILVER LINING 396 

MISCELLANEOUS 404 



$1.00 A YEAR Published Ten Times A Year lOc A COPY 

Four Years' Subscription, $3.00 

Entered at Boston post-office as second-class matter. 
Copyright, 1915. by 

THE BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL MAGAZINE CO. 
372 BOYLSTON STREET BOSTON, MASS. 





Please Renew on Receipt of Colored Blank Enclosed for that purpose 

338 



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INDEX FOR DECEMBER 

I'A(iK 

Carving Christmas Meats 382 

Christmas 361 

Christmas Dream, A 365 

Editorials 366 

Food and Feeding 380 

From the Sand-age to the Lawn-age, 111. . . 347 

Home Ideas and Economies 384 

Menus 345, 378 

Message, The 351 

Miss Nancy's Christmas Box 357 

Silver Lining, The 396 

Trial by Coffee, A 352 

Wisdom of Solomon, The 362 

Seasonable Recipes: 

Apples Glace, with Cherries, 111 374 

Beef, Filet of. Roasted 372 

Cake, Christmas, with Candles, 111 375 

Cake, White, Wild Rose Decoration, 

with Frosting, 111 375 

Cakes, Little Raisin 377 

Caviare, Andalouse Style 369 

Chestnuts, Chocolate 377 

Cocktail, Crab-flake 369 

Cocktail, White Grape, 111 370 

Cookies, Soft, Molasses 376 

Cream, Marshmallow-and-Nut 374 

Fudge, Cherry 377 

Fudge, Maple-sugar 377 

Grapes Glace, 111 377 

Halibut, Breaded Hearts, Fried, 111 371 

Jumbles, Orange, 111 376 

Lamb, Neck of, en Casserole 372 

Pie, Vegetable Mince, 111 374 

Potato, Crown of, with Lamb Rechaufee, 

111 371 

Potatoes, Sweet, Cooked in Bacon, 111... 372 

Puffs, Cocoanut, 111 376 

Rolls, Poppy-seed, 111 373 

Sausage, with Fried Apples, Deerfoot 

Style, 111 371 

Soup, Split-Pea 370 

Tapioca, Pineapple Sponge, Christmas 

Style, 111 374 

Tongue, Sliced, with Mayonnaise of 

Kohl Rabi and Cauliflower 372 

Waffles, Choice Rumford 373 

Queries and Answers: 

Bread, Bran 392 

Bread, Nut-and-Raisin 392 

Bread, Why Cracks in Baking 390 

Batter, Swedish Timbale 392 

Cheese Fingers 388 

Cookies, Bran 392 

Crescents 394 

Ham, Baked with Cider 394 

Lady Fingers 392 

Loaf, Nut, with Sauce 388 

Loaf, Salmon 390 

Position of Knife in Cover 388 

Syrup, Maple in Candy-making 390 

Timbale Cases 392 

Tuna, Recipes for Canned 390 

Vinegar from Fruit Juices 390 



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340 



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AMERICAN COOKERY 



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Menu for Christmas Day 



BREAKFAST 

Grapefruit 

Sausage Baked Potatoes 

Dry Toast 

Waffles, Maple Syrup 

or 

Honey in the Comb 

Coffee Cocoa 



DINNER 

Peeled Malaga Grape Cocktail 

Roast Guinea Hens Sweet Potatoes, with Bacon 

Brussels Sprouts, Buttered 

Pimiento, Chestnut-and-Endive Salad 

Parker House Rolls 

Marshmallow-and-Nut Cream 

Little Cakes 

Chocolate Bonbons 

Half Caps of Coffee 



SUPPER 

Oyster Soup 

Olives 

Large Baked Apples, Cream 

Jumbles 

Tea 



American Cookery 



Vol.. XX 



DECEMBER, 1915 



No. 5 



From the Sand-age to the Lawn-age 

By Stella Burke May 



I 



T HAS passed — the barbaric age 
when rows of glass bottles, their 
noses buried ostrich-like in the 
sands, or bricks arranged obliquely, 
with one corner uppermost, making 
serrated outlines of paths or flower beds, 
constituted a lawn in Florida — and even 
as civilization covers her children with 
concealing garments, where a string of 
beads or broken glass once sufficed, so 
progress has spread a rich, green blanket 
over the nakedness of the sands, with 
the result that two blades of grass now 
grow where none grew before. 

Xot so long ago, lawns in this section 
of the country were as scarce as tarpon 
in the subway tube, but during the past 
five years a great change has come over 
the face of the land; whether due to the 
natural following upon the heels of 
development, or brought about by the 
numbers of incoming Kentuckians and 
settlers from points farther north who, 
missing the verdance of their native 
blue-grass and clover, sought a sub- 
stitute in the less velvety varieties 
indigenous to the soil of these parts, and 
now, indeed, lawns are the order of the 
day. 

Occasionally, it is true, you will find 
the grounds of a native Floridian or 
some transplanted resident, where no 
alien blade of grass disturbs the per- 
fectly kept sand and the maxim: 
"Sweep before your own door" is so 
rigidly observed that the appearance 
of a spear of green is considered as 



marked an evidence of untidy yard- 
keeping as a bed of sand-spurs to a 
landscape gardener. But these "sand- 
lawns" are becoming more and more 
rare and, even in the event that an 
orange grove surrounds the house and 
the necessity of ploughing and culti- 
vating the trees precludes the possession 
of any great expanse of lawn, it has be- 
come the custom to border the walks 
on either side with a strip of Bermuda 
or St. Augustine grass as w4de as the 
proximity of the trees will permit. And, 
really, this produces a very pleasing 
effect, — a straight cement walk from 
porch to entrance gate, bordered with 
widths of grassy, green carpet, while 
the glossy-leafed, evergreen orange and 
grapefruit trees stand hospitably on 
either side in well-kept rows almost 
within arm's reach. 

But everywhere throughout the state, 
whether in North Florida, in the lake 
region of the peninsula, or along the 
Gulf and East Coasts, the grounds and 
their appearance are becoming more and 
more a matter of pride to the all-the- 
year-around and winter-residents and 
a scource of delight to the annually in- 
creasing number of tourists who visit 
this state and who. in former years, 
missed nothing so much as the sight 
of well-kept grounds and close-cropped, 
velvety lawns. 

Following the "sand-age" there w^as, 
at first, a feeble attempt at law#-making, 
in most cases, the new-comer failing in his 



34; 



348 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



effort to make an all-the-year lawn with 
the tender blue-grass of the North, 
which is not hardy enough to stand the 
tropical summer sun. And because he 
was unable to produce a velvety back- 
ground for his flowers and shrubs, it 
became the rule to fill every available 
inch of ground with flowers, vines, 
bushes, — anything that looked green. 
The result was that most of the Florida 
yards, presented an appearance of chaos, 
a hopelessly indescribable tangle of 
plants growing out of sand. 

Gradually the "blue-grass theory" 
was abandoned, and a native grass was 
sought that would resist heat, and 
endure through periods of too much or 
too little rain. And that persistence 
wins, a visit to any well-developed 
section of the state will demonstrate. 
Take, for instance, the highland region, 
where the vast numbers of beautiful 
lakes, with gradually sloping shores, 
display hundreds of magnificently 
smooth, green lawns, the close-cropped, 
emerald canvas making a perfect back- 
ground for the gorgeous red poinsettias 
and hibiscus, the yellow allamanda or 
orange-colored bignonia, and many bush 
and climbing roses of brilliant hues. 

Lawn-making in Florida is not mere 



child's play, but the effort put into its 
accomplishment is more than rewarded 
by the permanence of the result, for 
here it is a twelve months' source of 
pleasure, where there is no snow to 
cover it for part of the year, and few, 
if any, deciduous trees to scatter leaves 
and require continual raking. 

Blue-grass and clover are out of the 
question for a permanent lawn in this 
state; at least, there have been no 
successful attempts to produce and 
keep this sort of grass. The tropical 
sun is too severe and their roots do not 
readily find sustenance in the sandy 
soil sufficient to maintain them through- 
out the year. There are but two kinds 
of grass that have found general popular 
favor. These are St. Augustine and 
Bermuda. Occasionally you will hear 
of a third, St. Lucie grass, but there is 
little, if any, difference between this and 
Bermuda, so both may well be called 
one. And since both St. Augustine and 
Bermuda have been demonstrated as 
making ideal lawns, and both have 
staunch supporters, we will not enter 
into the merits of either. Suffice it to 
say, that the St. Augustine, though 
coarser, maintains its color better 
throughout the year, and is more 




THE BERMUDA PRESENTS THE APPEARANCE OF NORTHERN GRASSES." 



FROM THE SAXD-AGE TO THE LAWX-AGE 



349 




WHEN ROWS OF GLASS BOTTLES CONSTITUTED A LAWN 



adapted to hillside or slope; while the 
Bermuda, being tenacious and inclined 
to wander into flower beds and gardens 
and objected to by many on this account, 
is considered, for this very tenacity, as 
more fitted to resist heat and drought, 
and when well-watered presents more 
the appearance of the Xorthem grasses 
than any yet found in this region. 

For those unacquainted with the 
Florida climate, let it be understood 
that while this state does not have a 
perfectly defined wet and dry season. 



since there is some moisture every 
month in the year, it is, nevertheless, 
true that the summer months, June, 
July and August are heaviest in precipi- 
tation, and irrigation is seldom needed 
during these months. But during the 
winter and spring, January, February, 
March, April and May, precipitation 
is light, and unless well watered, lawns 
become brown and parched. For this 
reason the good gardener assists nature 
by sowing broadcast over his already 
made lawn some s:ood lawn mixture, 




WHERE XO ALIEN BLADE OF GR.\SS DISTURBS THE SAND ' 



350 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



containing either Italian rye or blue- 
grass, or both. When this is done an- 
nually in September, when the ground 
is well moistened with the summer's 
rains, the result is that, when the winter 
tourist reaches Florida in January and 
February, he finds on every hand beauti- 
ful lawns, which, while perhaps not so 
fine in texture as the Northern lawns, 
are brilliantly colored and well-trimmed 
and altogether a joy to the eye. 

The newcomer to this state is amused, 
at first, over the manner of planting 
grasses. Accustomed as he has been 
to seeing a lawn quickly developed, 
either by sodding or bursting into life 
in the Springtime from seed sown just 
before the winter snows, the sight of a 
gardener making a lawn by laboriously 
setting out little rootlets two or three 
inches apart and six inches apart, in 
rows, seems slow work to the Northerner. 
But the fact that St. Augustine grass 
and Bermuda are creepers and spread 
rapidly soon dawns upon him and 
usually he sees, within six months of the 
time of setting out, a well-developed 
grass mat which, with the addition of a 
slight sowing each year, makes a per- 



manent lawn of which any blue-grass 
advocate might well be proud. 

And so lawn-making is becoming 
each year more and more the initial 
step of the home-builder in this state, 
where formerly lawns were but in- 
cidental. And some morning, early, 
when the owner of a fine lawn is working 
in his flower beds and rose gardens, 
cutting perfect circles around his trees 
and straight lines along his paths and 
borders, in order that the runners may 
not creep in where they do not belong, 
he glances casually across his line fence 
into his neighbor's yard. And where 
previously a "sand-lawn" with bottle 
borders met his eye, he now beholds his 
neighbor hoeing his lawn into long 
furrows six inches apart. And pretty 
soon the sand-man says to the lawn-man, 
"If you're not going to use that grass 
you're digging up, would you mind 
giving it to me? I thought, maybe, 
I'd start a lawn, myself." And the 
lawn-man replies, "Why certainly, have 
all you want." And the sand-man 
comes over and gathers it up and goes 
home and sits down on his front step, 
scissors in hand, and proceeds to cut the 




WIDTHS OF GLOSSY GREEN CARPET. WITH THE GLOSSY-LEAVED. EVERGREEN, GRAPE- 
FRUIT AND ORANGE TREES STANDING HOSPITABLY ON EITHER SIDE" 



FROM THE SAND-AGE TO THE LAWN-AGE 



351 



grass into short lengths with a root 
system on each separate length, and 
one more lawn is started. 

And gradually, like their forty-nine 
blue brothers, all the bottles disappear 
from the land, the rows of sharp-edged 



bricks are taken up, the trees and shrubs 
and flowering plants assume positions 
of grace and orderliness, the hoe and 
rake transplant the broom as a gar- 
dener's implement, and "the green 
grass grows all around, 'round, 'round." 




The Message 



The pines leaned down to whisper in mine ear; 
The pines leaned down because the world was 
white — 
Was white and still — and lest the sea should 
hear 
The pines leaned down one starry winter night. 



O'erheard the sparkle, sparkle of the stars — 
God's stars, clear wells of ever-living light; 
They called and beckoned o'er their shining 
bars, 
"Mount upward, upward, to a loftier 
height." 



They leaned so low and spoke so breathlessly, 
They swayed and stooped in long and lofty 
lines; 
They said: "Grow upward, upward; if it be 
White world or green world, upward grow the 
pines." 



Grow upward soul! The stars ye yet may reach; 
Mount up through summer's glow or winter's 
chill. 
This is the lesson that the pine trees teach: 
"Whate'er thy lot, grow upward, upward 
still." 

L. Adelaide Sherman. 




A Trial by Coffee 

By Ladd Plumley 



< 



THERE was a feeling on the part 
of those who knew them intimately 
how it would turn out. But for 
a long time the feeling was not very 
definite and it looked as if the fates 
that control matrimony had made sure 
plans. And in many ways it seemed as 
if Adam and Eve were no more exactly 
suited for one another than were Irwin 
Oakley and Julia Despard. 

"Old man Despard," for that was 
the way he was known by the town, 
had begun life as a clerk in one of the 
mills and year after year had gone 
steadily up and up, until he owned not 
only the mill of his clerk days but 
several other big manufacturing plants. 
He was one of the financial giants of 
the community. He married rather 
late in life. His wife died after a few 
years, leaving Julia, the only child, to 
be brought up by the father. 

Despard loved his daughter and loved 
her with reason. From her mother she 
had inherited striking and unusual 
beauty — beauty of the high color, deep 
purple-black eye and stately figure order. 
And from both parents she had also 
inherited a mind as brilliant as you 
would have reason to expect for a girl 
of good New England ancestry and a 
breadth of forehead almost like that of 
an Edison. As Julia became older she 
became energetically ambitious and in 
many more directions than there is time 
or space to chronicle. 

Despard, who in former days drove 
himself around the town in a shabby 
phaeton, at length came to a great 
shining automobile and a chauffeur who 
looked as if he were an English army 
officer. Perhaps Despard cared for that 
sort of thing, but those who knew him 
best said that the immense car, the great 
mansion on the fringe of the town, as 
well as many other things, were con- 

352 



cessions to the wishes of his daughter. 

Probably it was early in life that 
Julia took the reins into her strong 
hands. It must have been so. For one 
thing, after a year in a private school 
of the town, her father sent her to an 
ultra-fashionable girl-polisher on the 
Hudson — a school said to be so difficult 
of entrance that it required vast push, of 
the financial kind, to enter a daughter 
at all. Yet in earlier days Despard had 
been known to say, "A New England 
high-school is plenty good enough for 
any girl." 

Then, after the course in the Hudson 
River school, Julia graduated at the 
smartest of girls' colleges. She stood 
far up in her class, as was to be expected, 
and was chosen as the principal speaker 
on the graduation day. 

Of course, she had had, did have, and 
it was believed with good reason, would 
have a host of admirers. But do not 
suppose that she looked forward to 
marrying one of the young men of the 
New England mill-town. Plenty of 
her home admirers were wealthy, plenty 
were talented, some had enjoyed every 
privilege of education, but they were not 
what Julia had in mind. 

In the two years following her grad- 
uation from college there were flittings 
to fashionable friends in New York, 
Philadelphia, and Chicago; there were 
parties and functions at the great house ; 
the house itself had been redecorated 
and refurnished. Perhaps during those 
two years the mill-owner lived a life as 
strange to him as if he had suddenly 
found himself the father of an Eastern 
princess and must change his ways 
accordingly. 

Julia had taken up music with the 
zeal she always put into everything she 
did. From her devotion to that art you 
would have supposed that the grand 



A TRIAL BY COFFEE 



353 



opera was what she had in mind. She 
did have a fairish voice and had 
mastered sufficiently the technique of 
singing to give pleasure to a parlor 
audience. Her hopes should have rested 
there; they should not have gone be- 
yond that niche in an art that is perhaps 
more difficult and exacting than any 
other. These necessary explanations 
give you a fair idea of the mill-owner's 
daughter, but no attempt has been 
made to describe some gaps in her 
education. 

"Wish I could get doughnuts now- 
adays such — ' ' 

"As mother used to make," added 
Julia. 

She and her father were seated at the 
great mahogany table, where the old 
man always felt lonely, as he remem- 
bered another and much smaller table 
and his wife opposite him. 

"Precisely," said Despard, in the dry 
voice he sometimes used to a clerk in 
his office. "Education and speech- 
making, music, art, all the rest — are 
good things for a woman," he added, 
"but I'm an old-fashioned man and 
there are other things that in my old- 
fashioned way I think are more im- 
portant yet." 

"Doughnuts, for example." 

"Precisely. Of course, we've got a 
cook — chef is what you've instructed 
me to say. And when the last one went 
it was easy to get another. Considering 
what I pay, it ought to be easy — very 
easy. But, and it certainly is strange, 
he cannot make doughnuts." 

If you are not familiar with the name 
of Irwin Oakley, it is because you do 
not happen to keep track of the rising 
young American musicians. He had 
inherited a large fortune from his 
mother. His father wanted his boy to 
aid him in his extensive Maine and Can- 
adian lumbering interests. But Irwin 
had his own ideas and his own fortune. 
So after his course at Harvard he spent 
two years in Vienna, where he proved 
and developed his genius as a composer. 



He returned to America to hear a 
Boston Society sing his first great com- 
position. Since then he had been climb- 
ing upward in his art and climbing 
almost rapidly enough to match with 
his ambitions. And, chosen by the 
mill town's musical society to lead at a 
concert, he became a guest at the Des- 
pard mansion. 

Oakley's friends thought him rather 
eccentric. Perhaps a man of genius — 
and he was a man of genius — must be 
expected to be different from other 
folks. As to appearance, however, he 
was not eccentric. He was singularly 
attractive. Something near six feet in 
height, with a face bold as to clear-cut 
features and with deep-set eyes, in any 
gathering he was a man that would be 
noticed and who stood out from all 
others. 

It was little "Dickey Travers" — he 
is with his father in the shoe-manu- 
facturing business — who said at the 
town's club, after a musical gathering 
at the Despard's. "Bet you a new hat — 
open to the crowd — that Julia Despard 
will rake in this big concert fellow. The 
musical high-brow of the English clothes 
is just her size." 

Nobody covered the hat-bet ; Dickey's 
opinion w^as shared by all. And if the 
bet had been taken, Dickey would 
certainly have won. 

When Julia told her father that it was 
settled, all but the usual paternal 
blessing, and that after a musical tour, 
which would include nearly every city 
of the country, she and her husband 
would settle in Boston, Despard said: 

"You young people are making the 
mistake of your lives. Oakley's all 
right — but I do wish he'd come down 
to earth once in a while. And you ought 
to have a man with money. Money isn't 
everything, but it's got a dead cinch on 
to-morrow's dinner. But — well, I wish 
that we could have a trial of how the 
thing will work. That wasn't so im- 
portant when I was a young fellow. 
People expected there would be troubles 



354 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



and difficulties. Little things and big 
things were coming — and they knew it. 
Everybody — except the older people — 
seem different now — and girls and 
women are different." 

"You're really thinking of Mother — 
and her doughnuts" — remarked Julia, 
half-scowling at the egg on her plate 
before her, for they were at breakfast. 

"Precisely," said Despard. "Precisely 
my dear. Music, art, and all the rest 
are well enough in their way — but they 
are simply veneer — veneer. That's 
my opinion, but things have changed 
so much that sometimes I hardly know 
what I do think. However, one thing 
ought to be clear. The essentials of 
life remain the same. You can never 
side-track them — they may come up at 
any moment, although hopping up and 
down to the accompaniment of rag- time 
music may make them forgotten. And 
as I said before, perhaps it would be a 
good plan if a man and girl could hit it 
off — get down to hard pan — for say 
a couple of weeks. Then we'd have 
some definite basis for the future." 

"Why, Father, you're voicing the 
most modern of the modern ideas. 
You're a leader in the procession. You 
are right in it, as we girls used to say in 
college." 

"Then, after all, this newest age has 
taken account of its ignorances and 
limitations. As I said, in the old days 
both parties knew — they were brought 
up to know — what might be carromed 
against them. They didn't push out 
their craft on unknown seas; they were 
prepared for windward shores, and, 
possibly, a hurricane or two." 

"You are not really thinking of wind- 
ward shores and hurricanes — you are 
thinking of Mother's doughnuts," put 
in Julia. 

"I am," replied the old mill-owner, as 
he gathered up his newspaper. "Hur- 
ricanes have a way of beginning with a 
gentle ground- swell. At the very start 
they only drop the barometer. The 
thing begins that way and ends, per- 



haps, in the wrecking of all hands." 

A month after this conversation came 
the strike. Like all strikes, the animos- 
ity on the part of the strikers against 
those not of their class became general. 
Old man Despard seemed to be hated 
more than the owner of the mill where 
the strike had started; perhaps the 
great mansion and the shining auto- 
mobile, and many other things, were 
partly responsible for this feeling against 
Julia's father. His life was threatened. 
It was hardly safe for him to appear in 
the streets. And one night his barns and 
garage were set on fire. 

The fire engines reached the burning 
buildings in time to save them. But 
the servants, perhaps with good reason, 
believed that the house would be the 
next object for the wrath of the strikers 
and had no idea of remaining longer 
than would be necessary to pack their 
effects and get their pay. 

On the following morning the fright- 
ened servitors of the great house, one and 
all, gave formal notice. And the chef 
gave vent to the feelings of all when, 
with his grip in his hand, he said to his 
employer : 

"Assuredly, M'sieur, it is the con- 
versation that the house has the danger 
of conflagration — is it not so?" 

"If you feel that way, get out — all of 
you," said the old man. "I've got a 
daughter and — " the sentence remained 
incomplete. He noticed the mocking 
curl of the lips of the chef. 

"Assuredly, assuredly, M'sieur! It is 
not as if M'sieur must cook his own fo d 
and make his own bed." 

But was it. not? That night, as 
Despard, after tossing restlessly about 
amid rumpled bed-clothes, rose and 
turned on the electric lights, he was not 
so certain that a daughter had mitigated 
very much the pains of departed maids. 
The blankets had been carelessly thrown 
over the mattress and had allowed not 
only his toes but half his legs to stick 
out into frigid nakedness. For it was 
October and he always slept with the 



A TRIAL BY COFFEE 



355 



windows open. With the clumsy fingers 
of sixty-odd, he managed to remake 
his bed so that it was a trifle less un- 
comfortable. 

Then he smiled grimly, as from the 
room near him he heard another, w^ho 
was evidently at the same labors. For 
Oakley had come for the week-end and 
finding that there was danger in the air 
had expressed his determination to stay 
until the strike was over. 

"Here's where the most modern of 
modem ideas will get an inning," chuck- 
led the mill-owner, as there came 
through the muffling of the wall a very 
naughty word. 

Of course, Julia expressed her belief 
that she was equal to the emergency 
which had so suddenly jutted itself 
forward. Had she not taken a course 
in 'Theoretical Domestic Science"? 
And had she not been given to under- 
stand from one of her professors, and 
again and again, that after proper 
training of the feminine mind there 
would never be any difficulty in master- 
ing the more insignificant details of 
human existence? 

During the next few da^'s certain 
details of human existence did not look 
so insignificant as they had in college. 
The mill-owner found it absolutely 
impossible to secure help of any de- 
scription, and Julia was far too proud to 
request aid of the few friends who 
could have helped her. But, indeed, at 
the beginning of her time of trial as 
a housewife, she felt assured of her 
success as she had always felt assured 
of success in all things. So far, her 
training had not been in teaching her to 
overcome difficulties, but in rather re- 
moving them for her. 

The first breakfast should have been 
an eye-opener — perhaps it was, for both 
Oakley and Julia. But more partic- 
ularly it must have opened Julia's eyes. 
For when a coff'ee machine has been 
carefully washed out with soap, and by 
a perfectly simple and natural accident 
a piece of the soap ^ and it must be 



confessed a large piece — has been left 
to give out its peculiar taste and aroma 
to the brew, that, unpleasant as it may 
be, is no reason why even a musical 
genius should mutter under his breath 
profanity and declare that he has been 
poisoned. Who could suppose that even 
a man of genius, whose own knowledge 
of cookery is, of course, a blank, should 
become excited, and heated, — yes, 
heated, — about a little detail such as a 
lump of soap in a coffee machine? 

And if your guest has requested a 
simple thing like an omelet, of course, 
you cannot explain that you, a past 
grand-mistress of art, of music, of so 
many things, discovered that after 
making indescribable messes you must 
substitute the fried eggs of exploded 
and repulsive appearance. You also 
substituted toast, for the muffins which 
he loved and which 3^ou had thought of. 
But after the omelet experiments your 
common sense began to get in its work. 
And if you had not charred those 
squares of thin blackness, you would 
not have believed how the whole powers 
of a first-rate intellect must be riveted 
on toast. And, then, only some bits of 
singed bread! 

Julia's father took it with delightful 
humor. In his clerk days he had pre- 
pared his own breakfasts and knew that 
coffee is always uncertain, even with no 
soap, and he had experienced the hazards 
of sputtering and exploding eggs in 
overheated fat. His eyes twinkled. 
Things were coming his way and fast. 
For however brilliant the genius must 
be admitted to be, he knew that he did 
not want him for a son-in-law. 

"Reminds me of a jolly yachting trip 
I once took on the Sound," he said. 
"We boys ah declared that we knew 
how to cook. So we didn't take a man. 
For five days w^e lived on hardtack, 
jam, and canned corned beef. JuHa, 
please don't slip to canned corned beef. 
I had my dose for a lifetime." 

The guest growled out, pushing the 
eggs from him : 



356 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Of course, you know, it isn't fair 
to expect Miss Julia — but, hang it all! 
I've got that cantata to arrange — and 
a little thing — a very little thing — like 
this, you know, — like this," and his 
hand was thrown out expressively over 
the soaped coffee and the exploded eggs. 
' ' Little things — you know — little 
things! But at the beginning of my day. 
Well — pardon me, please, Miss Julia!" 

Julia, her eyes flashing and the high 
color in her cheeks turned to flame — 
her father thought she had never looked 
so handsome — had not waited to hear 
the drawn-out "please" of the musician. 
She had flung her napkin to the floor 
and had flown 'out of the door. And, 
much as it is regretted to have to tell it, 
she had* actually forgotten herself so far 
as to slam vigorously and loudly the 
door behind her. 

The strike did not last long — only 
about a week, but it lasted full long 
enough to make the week a week of 
purgatory for the couple whom a kind 
fate had given over to a trial of the 
most modern of our modern ideas. 

Let it be said as a truism that it is 
seldom that a man of genius can side- 
track the demands of his stomach for 
proper nutrition. Indeed, it need hardly 
be mentioned, that no man or woman, 
whatever or anywhere, should regard 
lightly the demand for good food. That 
is the basis of all sciences, all arts, all 
crafts, — the basis of civilization. You 
cannot with energy till the soil, you can- 
not compose decent sermons, you cannot 
write interesting stories, you must cer- 
tainly not expect to have that exalta- 
tion of heart, nerve and mind that is 
demanded of a musical composer, if 
you have breakfasted on soaped coffee, 
exploded eggs, and charred bread. 

And musical enthusiasts cannot meet 
in a drawino:-room on the terms of a 



more congenial past, if there is a re- 
membrance, on the part of one, of a 
hurled napkin and a slammed door and, 
on the part of the other, of muttered 
curses for an effort more strenuous than 
you have ever put forth before, however 
much of a failure you know it to have 
been. 

Last week the boys at the club held 
a symposium and celebration for one 
of the clan who was soon to be married. 
"Little Dickey" is the happy one. He 
does not care over-much for art and 
music, and in a fashionable gathering he 
stays near the door so he can go away 
betimes, for he has to be in his office at 
an early hour. He is a keen young man 
of business and an all-round clean 
fellow. He was elected as the town's 
treasurer last fall and is one of the 
directors of Despard's biggest mill. 
He has known Julia ever since they used 
to slide down hill together. So perhaps, 
after all, it is not so strange that he is 
Oakley's successor. 

"She's like her father," he confided 
to a confidential friend on the evening 
of the club gathering. "Despard is a 
big man because, when he finds out a 
weakness, he isn't content until he has 
mastered it. Julia is like that. Some- 
how she found out — or thought she 
found out — that she doesn't know 
enough about cookery and all that sort 
of thing. Of course, my wife will never 
have to cook — that's the way I have a 
right to look at it. But, do you know, 
that girl is working like a beaver, train- 
ing herself in what she says she's de- 
ficient. I was up to supper last night. 
Would you believe it, old man? She 
had been down in the kitchen all the 
afternoon. You ought to have tasted 
her doughnuts! Just like my grand- 
mother used to make — I'll give you 
my word!" 



Miss Nancy's Christmas Box 

By Mix Thorn 



HELEN'S first glimpse of the 
brown farm house at the end of 
the road was caught as she 
climbed the last steep, dusty rise, and 
turning saw it standing stately, homey 
and tree-sheltered, behind its unpainted 
pickets. Many-tinted zinnias glowed 
in a round bed by the front path, — 
near the well some hollyhocks, tall and 
splendid, lifted up their crimson fluted 
heads. A responsible looking hen was 
leading her uncertain family through 
the short grass, and from the safe shelter 
of the woodshed a round-faced kitten 
regarded the new comer fixedly. 

An ideal New England homestead^-so 
mused the girl, and at this particular 
moment it was that a little bird of a 
woman, pink cheeked and smiling, grey 
curls all a-bobbing, came round the 
house, and her bright blue eyes meeting 
Helen's interested brown ones, she 
came straight on to the sagging gate, 
saying, "Come in and rest on my piazza 
a spell, won't you? I'm sure you're on 
your way to the Four Trees. All the 
boarders from the Inn either ride or 
walk there sooner or later. 'Tis a 
pretty view! 'Tis. Most folk get 
out of breath, too, the way you did, by 
the time they've taken my hill. Every 
one knows the old Swift Place, and I'm 
Miss Nancy." 

"Thank you!" and Helen willingly 
followed the old lady through the gate 
and up the path. "I am ready to rest. 
I'm Helen Stevens, and I'm at the Inn 
with my invalid aunt; we came only 
yesterday," and with an involuntary 
sigh she sank down on the weatherworn 
piazza settle and feasted her eyes on the 
broad stretches of meadow land and 
forest, which had for their background 
the irregular blue line of the White 
Mountains. A sweet wind swept over 
the August fields, blew stray locks of her 



bright hair and seemed to invite her 
to take to the road again. But the 
Four Trees could be found another day, 
and Miss Nancy and her home were 
more appealing just then. 

"Wait, you wait," continued the' 
older woman, "and I'll soon be back — by 
the way you noticed my Spotty I know 
you love kittens," and off trotted Miss 
Nancy Swift, her light feet making a 
cheerful clatter on the rough boards. 
She returned quickly with what ap- 
peared to be an armful of diminutive 
waving tails, appealing blue eyes, and 
a vast extent of gray and white and 
tiger-striped fur, but which resolved 
itself into four lively kittens, who 
scampered over the uneven piazza floor, 
and, yet, who did not rebel when the 
caller rapturously gathered them up 
into her rose-colored linen lap. 

"There's something satisfying about 
kittens, I always say," and Miss Nancy, 
smiling, watched her caller. 

"They are just darlings," was the 
enthusiastic response, "country kittens 
seem so dear and wholesome — all sweet 
clover and out of doors. I don't know 
that that really expresses it, but I do 
know what I mean." 

"I understand you," and Miss Nancy 
quite beamed — "I hope you'll like the 
rest of my family as well." 

"Your family!" and Helen's face was 
all interest. 

"Yes, the rest of 'em — Dobbin the 
horse, Amanda, the red cow, the mother 
cat, Blackie, the five hens and the 
rooster, and the eighteen chickens. 
We live here in peace and harmony, and 
that's more than can be said of all the 
families in the township." 

"You don't mean," and Helen eyed 
her new friend pitifully, "that you live 
alone in this big house with just your 
animals for company!" 



357 



358 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



"Surely, I do," was the response, 
"ever since my brother died two years 
ago. Both my married sisters out in 
the far West urge me to Hve with 'em; 
my youngest brother is in Virginia, and 
he invites me to sell out and come on, 
but while I've strength I'm best off 
here, and more contented in this old 
home of mine. 'Tain't half so bad as 
you'd think, either. Last winter, for 
two months, old Miss Hathaway was 
with me, but good land, she got so 
skeered at any noise that she almost 
fussed me, too. A real good honest, 
blustering wind that shook the house 
of an evening would make her call 
out — * Lawk a mercy, Nance, is some 
one trying to break in?' I was glad when 
she moved on to her second cousin's and 
left me in peace." 

"But, but," cried Helen, what do 
you do when the snow comes ?" 

"Oh, I can always manage to get 
through the woodshed to the barn and 
feed my stock, and the Burton boys 
from the farm above, they dig me out — 
know they'll get some of my hot griddle 
cakes of a cold morning and mebbe 
that helps some. Their mother, I 
guess don't cook naturally. As a girl, 
I was timid — there was a good-sized 
family of us, but now that I've come to 
sixty-eight, the years seem to have 
rubbed some sense into me beside 
giving me a few hard knocks," and Miss 
Nancy turned to pick off a dead leaf 
from the climbing rose. 

This call was the beginning of an odd 
friendship between the aged country 
woman, and seventeen-year-old Helen, 
and, as the weeks went on, the young 
girl was made welcome to wander over 
house, yard, barn and woodshed — not 
to mention the orchard, whose bright- 
hued apples were a delight. She quite 
reveled in her new experiences and many 
a visit did the strangely assorted pair 
have in kitchen, bed room, and sitting 
room. It was Miss Nancy's chief 
pleasure to hear of the great busy city 
where was Helen's home — its stores, 



art galleries and museums, even the 
broad avenues, all the places she had 
read of but had never seen. What most 
impressed the girl was this old friend's 
pathetic love for beauty and color, 
which was expressed in the simple 
furnishings of the farm house: some 
artistic calendar, kept for its bit of 
color long after its real mission was past, 
effective Christmas cards, dried leaves 
and grasses, even the shells on the parlor 
mantle were faintly tinted. 

"What do you think of the cheese 
cloth curtains in my sitting room?" 
inquired Miss Nancy one day. 

"They are very pretty," was the 
rejoinder, "and a rare shade, too, quite 
Craftsman." 

"I dyed 'em myself; yes, I did and 
worked long enough, I can tell you, to 
get the shade of green that just suited 
me." 

"I love your braided rugs, too, they 
are in sweet, subdued tones, never too 
bright," went on Helen; "that pink and 
white one is just dear." 

The little old lady quite glowed at 
the praise and said rather unexpectedly, 
"I expect your own room is sort of 
pinkey, isn't it?" 

"Yes, it is, it surely is, and I wonder 
how you guessed!" 

"Maybe because you wear pink so 
much, and because that's the color you 
always notice in flowers and the like," 
and the little lady trotted away to 
speak to Hannah-from-The-Corners, 
who washed and cleaned for her one 
day each week. 

It was with genuine regret that, two 
weeks later, Helen said good bye to 
Miss Nancy, who was a sober Miss 
Nancy just then and whose eyes looked 
a trifle misty as she watched the slim 
young form disappearing around a 
clump of white birches. 

"The child seemed real relieved to hear 
that my niece from Virginia is going to 
spend the winter with me," she mur- 
mured to herself, and then, as if she 
felt, of a sudden, the need of com- 



MISS NANCY'S CHRISTMAS BOX 



359 



panionship, she lifted the surprised 
mother cat to her thin shoulder and 
smoothed the black, glossy coat. 

It was early in November that 
Helen began to "collect treasures," 
as she expressed it, and in this she was 
ably assisted and abetted b}^ her mother, 
father and younger sister, and the aunt 
with whom she had been at the Inn. 
Long would the girl linger by some 
counter where remnants of draperies 
were lying in tempting disarray, or by 
bewitching lengths of chintz or cretonne. 
She haunted quaint little Japanese 
shops, studied collections of pottery, 
and paused at windows where pictures, 
framed and unframed, made the passer- 
by with artistic tendencies forget what 
he or she had started out to buy. 

Thanksgiving with all its family 
gatherings and all its joy and merriment 
had come and gone. December came 
roystering in, and now anxious shoppers 
began to visit the stores, armed with 
Christmas lists, and in every home 
completed pieces of fancy work made 
their appearance; an air of mystery 
prevailed, and long was the evening 
lamp burned. Like others of her school 
friends, Helen crocheted, industriously, 
threaded beads and embroidered, but 
her great interest this year was in a 
certain box which she kept under the 
couch in her room, such times as she 
did not pull it out for the express pur- 
pose of examining and fairly gloating 
over its precious contents. 

"I feel myself a sort of miser. Mother," 
she exclaimed one day as together they 
looked through the box, whose con- 
tributions were increasing — "oh, have 
I chosen wisely, do you think? It's 
been a great responsibility!" 

"You certainly have selected well, 
Dearie," and Mrs. Stevens pushed back 
a refractory curl that wandered out 
over the pink cheek. "It has been a 
labor of love, too, and how much 
pleasure it has given you and us." 
Helen patted affectionately the precious 
box before she pushed it under the 



couch, saying as she did so, "I know 
I am going to miss it when it goes, the 
dear thing!" 

It was the fifteenth of December that 
the expressman carried out of the 
Stevens house a reliable-looking, square, 
wooden box, whose exceedingly plain 
direction told anyone who might care 
to read that a Miss Nancy Swift — resi- 
dence. Steep Mountain, Maine, was to 
have a sizable holiday gift, and in one 
corner was firmly tacked a white and 
crimson warning, whose text was: "Not 
to be opened until Christmas." 

At the door stood Helen, smiling, 
eager-eyed, watching the prosaic express 
wagon as delightedly as if it had been, 
indeed, a fairy coach and its burden rare 
jewels for some beautiful princess. And 
yet it surely bore precious freight, and 
in imagination Helen followed Miss 
Nancy's Christmas box over wintry 
ways until at last it should reach a 
brown, old farm house at the crest of 
the hill. 

But even Helen hardly had dreamed 
just how great and wonderful was that 
surprise when late one December day, as 
the shadows were creeping over snowy 
hillsides, Joe Bates, the rural delivery 
man, stopped at Miss Nancy's gate with 
a great "whoa — a," that brought the 
little mistress of the house hurrying out 
to see what was his errand. Over her 
shoulder peeped the inquisitive face of 
Harriet, her niece. 

"Now, Joe Bates!" cried Miss Nancy, 
"what in the world are you going to 
leave here, I want to know?" 

"Now don't hurry me," drawled the 
genial Joe — "don't, I ask ye! Looks 
to me as if some one had sent Miss 
Nancy Swift a Christmas box, and if 
my eyes see aright, they's a card on one 
comer of it that says, don't ye open 
tiW the day.'' 

"For me, a box for me!" and no 
Christmas berries were more crimson 
than Miss Nancy's cheeks, just then — 
"set it in a comer of the kitchen, please, 
Joe," and the little lady trotted back to 



360 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



the house to make place for the won- 
derful box. 

"Oh, Aunt Nancy!" exclaimed Har- 
riet, "have you a notion who sent it?" 

Miss Nancy's hands were trembling 
as she rubbed off the oil cloth on the 
kitchen table, "I've a notion, but I may 
be wrong. It's childish, it is for certain, 
but if it weren't for that card, I'd just 
take a peep inside. As the young folks 
say, 'how can I wait for Christmas!'" 

" 'Tain't but four days off, so that's a 
comfort," and the girl took up the broom 
she had dropped when Joe arrived. 

"Oh, I say, Harriet Pease!" called 
out Joe from his sleigh as he turned to 
go, "you see to it that box ain't opened 
before it should be," and, waving a 
debonair salute with his whip, the cheer- 
ful rural delivery man drove off chuck- 
ling to himself. 

Miss Nancy and her niece had their 
usual early breakfast Christmas morn- 
ing, and the older woman remarked as 
she poured the coffee — "I feel as if 
I couldn't eat a mouthful, child. I'm 
that anxious to get at the box, but," 
she added, breaking a baking powder 
biscuit, "I won't yield to the feeling, 
and you eat, too, Harriet." 

I wish that Helen, invisible, might 
have peeped into that farm house 
kitchen half an hour later, and seen 
Miss Nancy's glorified face as she bent 
over the box and read the message on 
the card which lay on the very top — 
"Just a little Christmas 

for dear Miss Nancy — 
From Helen Stevens." 

"I felt that it was from her," and the 
dainty little lady's voice was not quite 
steady. Tenderly she lifted out each 
daintly wrapped, carefully packed gift, 
saying as she did so : 

"They're too pretty to open, see the 
red ribbon and green paper on this one, 
Harriet, the gold cord and red paper on 
that, and the cunning little sprig of 
make-believe holly on that largest one."" 

It was not till every package was out 
of the box that Miss Nancy began to 



undo them, and slowly, very slowly, 
almost reverently, she untied the shining 
tinsel, and, as if unfolding the petal of 
some great rose, took off the dainty 
tissue paper, disclosing a graceful, green 
pottery jar, a tall, oval shape which 
gradually widened till at the top ap- 
peared faintly outlined leaves. 

"Harriet, Oh, Harriet!" and Miss 
Nancy's hands softly touched the 
smooth surface; all my life I've wanted 
a vase like this; saw one most like it in 
a store window in Portland once, when 
I went in one autumn for some shopping, 
and I remember I didn't even ask the 
price, I just watched that vase. And 
see, do see! Was there ever such beauti- 
ful material as this table cover, sort of 
crepy, gold and tan and green!" 

"But what's this long shaped pack- 
age?" cried her niece, "do open it Aunt 
Nancv, 'tis heavy — feels to me like 
cloth." 

"Why, it's cretonne, lovely cretonne, 
and yes," and the older woman quickly 
measured from the end of her nose, 
along her extended arm to her finger tips, 
"I do believe there's five yards of mater- 
ial there, enough to cover my mother's 
old barrel chair — ain't it a splendid 
pattern! Such colors, too, browns, and 
sort of dullish pinks." 

"Open that envelope, Harriet, and 
see what it says." 

"'Tis a year's subscription to that 
Woman's Magazine I've heard you say 
you liked — the Dykes take it — begins 
with the January number. My, but 
I'll enjoy it, too," and the girl smiled 
in anticipation. 

"This box doesn't weigh much," 
began Miss Nancy, "but oh, see, I want 
you should see this pretty soft shawl — 
just the color of my pink hollyhocks — 
I'll wrap up in it this very evening! 
Was there ever such a warm fluffy 
thing? Deary me, whatever is this 
heavy package?" and the excited little 
aunt stood on tiptoe to see — "'Tis, I 
knew 'twas a regular painting, what 
they call a water color: I've seen such 



I 



MISS NANCY'S CHRISTMAS BOX 



361 



at the Inn, and oh, the frame — Why 
it's spring woods, and can't you almost 
smell the arbutus? That's a brook, 
and that Httle blue peep behind the bal- 
sams is an April sky! I think I know 
just where I'll hang that picture — to 
think of my owning it!" 

"Here," said Miss Nancy handing 
over a fiat package, "your name is on 
this; there, ain't you happy to have a 
novel of vour own, and a lace collar, 
too?" 

A wonderful illustrated book on rug 
making was Miss Nancy's next gift, 
and a box of candy completed the sur- 
prises. "Don't seem like candy," said 
the old lady carefully selecting a choc- 
olate peppermint, "'tis too pretty; 
help yourself, Harriet, I always did 
have a sweet tooth. I declare, if this 
hasn't trays just like a doll's trunk, 
and there's a different sort of candy in 
each tray; that box must weigh three 
pounds, anyway. My, but it carries 
me back to my childhood!" And Miss 
Nancy looked happily reminiscent. 

"When I wasn't but seven. Grandpa 
Ford made me a wooden chest to 
keep my 'special things in. How I 
did love that chest, gave it to brother 
Henry's little girl when she got to be 



seven, and she set great store by it." 
It was a few days later that Helen 
Stevens read and reread, before she laid 
it away with her most precious posses- 
sions. Miss Nancy's httle heartfelt letter 
of thanks, and this is the way it ended : 

"It's a great deal, I think, to make 
a beautiful, happy Christmas for an old 
lady far away in the country, and this 
is what you've done for me. The years 
sort of turned back, and while I un- 
packed that box I felt just a girl again, 
all the hard times forgotten, and, do 
you know, the joy stays with me as I 
see my lovely presents all around the 
house. Maybe the feeling will keep 
on until you come again. 

"Yours with love — 

Nancy Swift. 
"P. S. I've been braiding you a pink 
and white rug, for your own room ; have 
worked on it since before Thanksgiving, 
then I got rheumatic, so maybe you 
won't get it until Valentine day — but 
'twill come." 

"The dear, oh, the dear," Helen 
whispered, her eyes on the glowing coals 
in the fire place. "To think of her 
making me a rug! And it isn't long 
until next summer, not so very long, 
little Miss Nancy!" 



Christmas 



Twas an angel chorus of "Peace on earth," 
That cadenced the news of the Christ Child's 
birth. 
O'er flocks that slumbered, o'er glade and glen. 
To priest and peasant, "good will to men." 



'Tis a sounding chorus of "Peace on earth," 
'Tis a strain of faith and a psalm of mirth. 
That sent of Heaven is heard again 
At the Christmas time, "good will to 
men." 



And Three there were from a land afar, 
Their faith a faith in the gleaming Star, 
That led o'er rivers and steeps grass-grown 
To the Holy One in His manger throne. 



And prince and pauper and high and low, 
Glimpsing a moment the Christ Star, know 
Theirs from afar to tribute bring 
Of myrrh and spices to greet the King. 

Lalia Mitchell. 




The Wisdom of Solomon 

By Esther G. Babson 



THE postman had just brought a 
letter to Abbie Ann Taylor, and 
that being an unusual event, even 
the process of washing the dishes had to 
be stopped, while Abbie polished her 
glasses with trembling fingers. "My 
goodness, mother, it's postmarked Oak- 
land, California, — do you suppose? No, 
it can't be, — " 

"Why yes, Abbie, of course, it is 
Cousin Solomon. He's the only relative 
we've got out in those parts. Why 
don't you open it'" 

Mrs. Taylor, not being the recipient 
of the important document, took things 
more calmly, and even went on with 
her task of wiping the cups. But when 
Abbie finally brought herself to the 
point of carefully tearing open the en- 
velope, the old lady seated herself op- 
posite, prepared to drink in the con- 
tents. 

"Dear Abbie Ann," (the letter ran) "I 
hope you and Cousin Mary are well, and 
still living in the old home. I have had 
a kind of longing to come back to North- 
bury for a little visit. I have done fair 
these last years, but I ain't a million- 
aire, not by a long chalk. However, I 
can pay for my keep, Abbie Ann, and 
if you can take me in, I would rather 
stay with you than go to Fox Tavern, 
which, if my memory serves me right, 
had awful poor food. 

"I am leaving here very soon now, and 
shall be so glad to see you both. I 
won't make you a bit of trouble, Abbie, 
and, as you know, I'm not a bit fussy if 
I get a little something to eat three times 
a day. 

"Yours affec. 

Solomon Taylor." 

"Well, Abbie, did you ever. After 
all these years a-coming back to North- 
bury. Do you suppose he's going to 
stay? Oh, no he says 'just a little 



visit.' Why, it's five years since I heard 
from Solomon and twenty since he left 
Northbury; I should admire to see him 
again." 

Abbie Ann's feelings appeared to be a 
little mixed. Pleasure at seeing Cousin 
Solomon again was somewhat tempered 
by a vivid remembrance of his appetite. 
No dainty cup of tea with toast and pre- 
serves for supper would suit Cousin 
Solomon. Baked beans or combeef 
hash, with hot biscuits, coffee, pie and 
doughnuts, seemed the only things to 
satisfy him. What a lot of extra work it 
meant for herself! 

"Well, what of it?" spoke Abbie's 
better self. "It will please Mother to 
have him here. Two women do get 
kinder set living alone." "Why, yes, 
Mother, it will be nice to have a man 
round the house. He's so kind, too, 
if he hasn't changed from what I remem- 
ber of him." Abbie Ann and her mother 
lived in Northbury, Maine, in a quaint 
little house, which they owned. They 
lived on the smallest of incomes, 
eked out by Abbie's fine management 
and by her needlework. Of course 
Cousin Solomon would pay for his 
board, but the extra time spent in cook- 
ing must be taken from Abbie's sewing; 
then extra help with the washing must 
be hired and a few little improvements 
round the house simply must be made. 
All these things were weighed in Abbie's 
thrifty mind, to be finally swept aside 
by the pleasing thought that, at last, a 
man's hat would hang again on the hat 
rack, his slippers rest by the fire and 
sometimes of an evening, when there was 
a concert at Town Hall, he could act as 
escort to a lonely woman. 

First, the spare room was well cleaned 
and aired, and oh, how Abbie did long 
for a little extra money, with which to 
buy new curtains. 



362 



THE WISDOM OF SOLOMON 



363 



"They do freshen up the room a bit," 
she thought "and a new quilt and a pin- 
cushion would make it look so nice!" 
Suddenly a bright thought came to the 
harassed housekeeper. She ran up to 
the attic and brought down an old 
bronzed lamp, with long glass prisms 
hanging from the shade. 

"Mother, let's send this old lamp to 
Seth Reed's auction rooms; we'll never 
use it again, and it's just taking up room 
in the attic." 

"Well, Abbie Ann, seems 's if it was a 
real pretty lamp, if it was cleaned up 
some." 

"Now you know. Mother, since we got 
the gas drop-light, how much better you 
like it, and no fuss to fill or clean a lamp 
either." 

The lamp was forthwith taken down to 
Seth Reed's auction rooms, where that 
astute buyer of second-hand goods 
looked it over dubiously and shook his 
head. 

"I guess it was a good lamp in its day. 
Miss Taylor, but it don't look much now, 
and that's a fact. Seems to me it's a 
little mite bent, don't you think so?" 

"Well, I don't know but it is," ad- 
mitted Abbie mournfully. 

"Do you think it's worth anything at 
all, Mr. Reed?" 

"Perhaps I might give you a dollar 
and a quarter for it. Miss Taylor, but 
it's got to be fixed up some before any 
one would want it." 

I'll take that, Mr. Reed, please," said 
Abbie hastily, as the dealer showed de- 
cided reluctance to part with even that 
small sum. 

Even Abbie Ann, that wonderful 
economist, could not do much toward 
beautifying Cousin Solomon's room with 
one dollar and a quarter, but she did her 
best, and when two weeks later Cousin 
was officially installed, he seemed to 
find it very much to his liking. 

He was a big man, a six-footer, with 
kind grey eyes, and a laugh that seemed 
to shake the small house to its founda- 
tions. On his arrival he had insisted 



on warmly kissing and embracing both 
frail little women, who were unable to 
speak for some seconds afterwards; 
but as Cousin Solomon held the floor, 
their silence was unnoticed. 

"My kingdom, but I'm glad to see 
you both, and old Northbury, too. It 
looks just the same; hasn't changed 
much. Not doing a great deal of 
business in building, are they^ North- 
bury isn't what I call a hustl ng lively 
railroad center! Ha! ha' Dead as 
ever, but I love it. I'm goiii^ to have 
the time of my life. Go round and see 
everybody; down to the wharf, over to 
the mill-dam ; and to meeting, — re- 
member the time. Cousin Mary, you 
took me to prayer meeting when I was 
five years old, and I took a penny out 
of the plate instead of putting one in? 
Ha! ha!" The old walls seemed fairly 
to rock as he went upstairs laughing. 
Abbie Ann was actually pale, but she 
rallied all her powers, and, as time went 
on, took very kindly to the big clumsy 
cousin, hale and boyish in spite of his 
sixty-five years. 

He came and went as he pleased, al- 
ways good-natured and kind, ready to 
turn his hand to anything. He appeared 
promptly at meal-times with an appetite 
w^hich first appalled and then delighted 
x\bbie Ann. 

He paid good board, and Abbie con- 
scientiously did not try to make money, 
but took pleasure in buying good things 
for him to enjoy. They took many a 
ramble round the picturesque old village 
of Northbury, which had once been 
such a shipping center, and had now 
settled down to a peaceful and quiet 
old age. 

The Taylor house stood at the corner 
of the street which sloped gently down to 
the river, crossed by the old bridge. 
The bridge was almost a mile long, and 
ran over to the small town of Edgehill. 
The walk across the bridge towards 
sunset was one which Cousin Solomon 
and Abbie Ann never tired of taking, for 
the old place was full of memories of 



364 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



their past youth, sweet and sad inter- 
mingled. 

One evening, as the three were seated 
around the sitting-room table, after a 
meal to which Cousin Solomon had done 
ample justice, the guest's eyes roamed 
around the quaint low-studded room, 
remarking the stiff hair-cloth furniture, 
the claw-footed tables, and Abbie's 
banjo clock, a legacy from Cousin Josiah. 
All seemed in keeping with the house and 
the two dear old-fashioned women who 
lived in it, except one thing. 

"Abbie, why don't you have a lamp to 
read by, instead of that gas drop-light? 
A lamp gives better light than anything. 
I have electric light in my rooms out 
West and I hate it and always have a 
lamp to read by." "Well, now Solo- 
mon," piped up Mrs. Taylor aggrieved, 
"if you had cleaned and trimmed these 
old smelly lamps all your life, you'd be 
mighty glad to have gas brought into 
the house, and just light a match and 
turn a screw and there you are com- 
plete." 

"Mother always did like new things 
you know. Cousin Solomon," murmured 
Abbie. 

In spite of receiving little encourage- 
ment from the women. Cousin Solomon 
had made up his mind and would not be 
detei-red from his purpose, as his visit 
was drawing to a close, and on the day 
before he was to leave he came in with a 
large bundle in his arms. 

He called his cousins and began with 
a touch of solemnity. "Now Cousin 
Mary and Abbie Ann, you have made 
me have about the best vacation I 
ever had in my life, and after a few 
years more out there, I'm coming back 
to the old town for good. I hope I 
haven't been a great put-out to you 
Abbie; I wanted to pay my way and 
leave you a little extra for your trouble. 
You have given me fine food and plenty 
of it. I shan't taste a doughnut like 
yours, Abbie, till I come back." Here 
Cousin Solomon's voice actually trem- 
bled and a tear rolled down Cousin 



Mary's cheek. "I've been thinking 
what I could get you for a little present, 
outside of money, that would look well 
in the old house. You know what I 
said the other night. Well, to-day I 
was up in Seth Reed's auction rooms and 
I saw a beautiful lamp, the very image 
of one I remember years ago." All 
this time Cousin Solomon had been 
carefully removing the wrappings, and 
finally brought forth the lamp, burnished 
and glorified to be sure, but the same 
lamp that dear Abbie had sold to Seth 
Reed for one-twenty-five! 

Cousin Solomon was so busy removing \ 
papers and bearing his trophy to the 
sitting-room that there was a minute in 
which Abbie, after that first gasp of 
astonishment, could think. 

Abbie was a member of Sunny Hill 
church, in good standing; she was 
fifty-five years old, and had never dis- 
sembled in her life, but the situation 
called for tact, and she was game now. 

One glance at her mother's face and 
she whispered, as Cousin Solomon went 
on before them, "Don't tell him," and 
put her finger to her lips. The old lady | 
understood and, also, rose to the occa- 1 
sion. 

"Well, there, what do you think of 
that, Abbie Ann Taylor?" exclaimed the 
unobservant Solomon. "Now that sort 
of harmonizes with the rest of your 
things. Let's unhitch the old drop-light 
and put the lamp where it belongs. Well 
how do you like it?" 

"It's a beautiful lamp, Solomon," 
quavered Mrs. Taylor, "and it is much 
more of an ornament than the drop- 
light." 

"I guess lamp-light is better to read 
and sew by. Cousin Solomon; any way 
we shall prize it, for it's your parting 
present to us." — Abbie turned away, 
choked by emotions, her eyes full of 
tears. 

"Now Abbie, don't let's talk about my 
parting gift, and begin to cry, or I 
shan't go at all. Come let's forget I'm ! 
going to-morrow and enjoy to-day. 



THE WISDOM OF SOLOMON 



365 



That lamp does look good to me. I 
beat Seth Reed down to six-fifty. He 
wanted eight dollars, the old screw! 
Said it was a genuine antique; well, I 
suppose it is, but I'll bet a doughnut he 
didn't give more than five dollars for it." 

But the person who could give accu- 
rate information on the subject had left 
the room, her handkerchief at her eyes. 
Real grief at Cousin Solomon's depar- 
ture; anger at the canny bargain- driver, 
Seth Reed, and determination to save 
her cousin's feelings at any cost, so war- 
red within her that she ran up-stairs and 
actually threw herself upon her bed in 
tears. 

"Well, I declare," said Cousin Solo- 
mon as he looked after her, "I'd no idea 
Abbie'd feel so bad just because I'm 
going." 

And here Cousin Mary, although old 
and infirm, showed considerable diplo- 



matic ability. " Abbie's real tender 
hearted, Solomon. Better not say any- 
thing more to her about parting gifts." 

But when the next day Cousin Solomon 
stood in the little entry, bag in hand, 
Abbie Ann, the most reserved and 
prudish of spinsters, put both arms 
round his neck, kissed his grizzled cheek 
and whispered, *T shall miss you ever 
so much, and every time I fill the lamp, 
or even look at it, I shall think about 
you," . . . the rest was inaudible but 
Cousin Solomon thought he detected 
the word "doughnuts." 

"Cheer up, Abbie," said he, patting 
her kindly on the shoulder, "the time 
w^ill soon pass, I'll be back some day," 
and here Solomon rose to great heights 
of renunciation, "and xAbbie, not another 
doughnut will I eat, till I come back to 
old Northbury, and have yours again, 
the best ever made." 



A Christmas Dream 



Last night when all was quiet, and I was in my 

bed, 
I saw the wonderfullest thing! My prayers had 

just been said, 
And I had drawn the covers up all snuggety and 

warm. 
And hoped that God was watching me to keep 

me safe from harm. 
When right out through the window, upon the 

edge of night, 
The moon came shding up the sky, all round and 

silver-bright. 
Of course I've seen the moon before; I've even 

seen it rise; 
But this was different, for there, upon the frosty 

skies, 
Was Santa's sleigh — it really was! I saw it! 

Don't you b'lieve? 
It went across the silver moon ; I saw it rock and 

heave; 



I saw the prancing feet and heard the bells upon 

the deer. 
And saw them shake their antlered heads, they 

came so very near. 
And wonderfuller still than that — so splendid 

was the Hght 
That shined about old Santa's sleigh and lighted 

up the night — 
(I think somehow I would have known even if 

the hght was dim) 
I saw the httle Christ-Child a-riding there with 

him! 
I guess poor Santa's getting old. It was so long 

ago 
He was a boy, that what we like he really doesn't 

know. 
But 'course the httle Christ Child is just a boy, 

like me. 
He'd know what every child would want upon 

his Christmas tree! 

Helen Coale Crew. 



366 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



AMERICAN COOKERY 

FORMERLY THE 

BOSTON COOKING-SCHOOL 
MAGAZINE 

OF 

Culinary Science and Domestic Economics 

Subscription $1.00 per Year Single Copies, 10c 
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To other Foreign Countries, 40c per Year 

TO SUBSCRIBERS 

The date stamped on the wrapper is the date 
on which your subscription expires ; it is, also, an 
acknowledgment that a subscription, or a renewal 
ot the same, has been received. 

Please renew on receipt of the colored blank 
enclosed for this purpose. 

Jn sending notice to renew a subscription or 
change of address, please give the old address 
as well as the new. 

In referring to an original entry, we must know 
the name as it was formerly given, together with 
the Post-office, County, State, Post-office Box, 
or Street Number. 

Statemefit of ownership and mafia^etnettt as required by 
the Act of Congress of Attgust 24, igi2. 

Editor: Janet M. Hill 

Business Managers: R. B. HiLL, B. M. HiLL 

Owners : 

B. M. Hill, Janet M. Hill, R. B. Hill 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 

published ten times a year by 

The Boston Cooking-School Magazine Co. 

372 Boylston Street, Boston, Mass. 
Entered at Boston Post-office as Second-class Matter. 

GOOD HEALTH 

GOOD health is the natural heritage 
of every individual. The wise 
person will not be sick, for he per- 
sistently heeds the laws of Nature. 
Nature intends the human machinery 
to run smoothly, without jolt or friction; 
and when, either from accident or ignor- 
ance, this dehcate mechanism lacks 
harmony, then pain, ill-health and con- 
sequent unhappiness result. Compen- 
sation is the law of life, and once this 
law be abused, the human body pays a 
high toll for the infringement. Why 
not get the health habit ? 



CHRISTMAS GREETINGS 

THE AMERICAN COOKERY ap- 
peals to teachers \ and students of 
domestic science and housekeepers 
everywhere. The magazine is one of 
the very few that specialize in the line of 
culinary and domestic affairs. For sake 
of variety some other subjects, designed 
to be appropriate to its pages, and of 
more or less interest, we hope, to its 
readers, are presented; but these are 
to be regarded as entirely subordinate 
to the main feature of the magazine, 
which is strictly culinary in character. 
Here we desire to excel, to offer the best 
of every thing, in a word, to be authori- j 
tative. We, also, desire to co-operate 
with teachers of domestic science as i 
well as housekeepers in general; in 
brief, to reach all those who are in any 
wise concerned with the welfare and 
betterment of home-life. At this season 
of the year, when subscriptions are 
made or renewed, do not overlook the 
significance and real import in the home 
of a special periodical of this character. 
American Cookery aims to interest and 
profit Amercian women. 

PEACE, WHEN? HOW? 

WE all want peace, an abiding peace, 
sadly. We had reached that state 
long before the present struggle abroad 
began. But we simply can not have 
peace until the "other fellow" wants it, 
too. The old saying still holds true that 
it takes two to make a bargain. The 
prodigal son was not met with greetings 
by his sire until he had manifested a 
sincere desire to return to his home. A 
few people, so-called pacificists, seem 
inclined to ignore the fact that an ever- 
lasting conflict is going on in the world 
between truth and error, right and 
wrong, and they have assumed that 
nothing good was ever gained by force, 
— that is, even in warding off force in 
self-defense. The truth of this assimip- 
tion they can in no wise prove or main- 
tain. Their arguments fail utterly to 



EDITORIALS 



367 



convince. The history of the world and 
the experience of mankind, to the pres- 
ent hour, afford a complete refutation 
of such contention, whatever the case 
may be in some distant future. The 
same pacificists are not disposed to 
distinguish at all between preparation 
for war and preparation for defense 
against war and for peace. Edison's 
advice seems wiser to us. His words 
are "not preparedness for war but pre- 
paredness for defense is safe," and the 
people of the land will agree with him. 
We are not willing to pay tribute in 
course of unexpected or untoward events, 
to some chance free-booter or exploiter, 
or even to run the risk of such a calamity. 
As long as a single burglar is at large, 
it is imprudent to leave one's treasure 
unprotected. We believe in self-pro- 
tection, in safeguarding with zealous 
care the cherished interests and ideals 
of America. Not peace at any price, 
but "safety first," justice, righteousness 
are foremost in consideration. 

VOCATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES 

THERE is a large and rapidly 
growing demand for women qual- 
ified by education, training, natural abil- 
ity and fitness to fill satisfactorily 
positions of an administrative nature in 
various types of modern institutions. 

It is not surprising that the demand is 
larger than the supply, because op- 
portunities for training along these 
lines have but recently been provided. 
It is no longer a question whether or 
not there are desirable opportunities 
in fields other than teaching. The prob- 
lem that confronts us is to find a suffi- 
cient number of those qualified to fill 
the positions. 

The positions vary widely, and may 
be found in social work, in institutional 
fields, along scientific lines, or in work 
of an independent, commercial nature. 
The following list suggests lines of 
work for women trained in Home 
Economies : — College dormitory assist- 
ant, hospital housekeeper, dietitian. 



lunch room manager, director of inn, 
visiting housekeeper, director of 
women's club house, manager of cafe- 
teria, and tea-room manager. 

House Directors in Institutions in- 
cludes directors in colleges and school 
dormitories, in clubs, settlements, Y. W. 
C. A. homes, and homes for working 
girls; matrons and housekeepers in 
hospitals and Sanitaria; cottage mothers 
and matrons in corrective institutions. 
She must understand markets and 
buying; she must understand the essen- 
tials of a well-balanced dietary. On 
such a director really depends the com- 
fort, health and proper social life — in 
fact, the general welfare of all in the 
institution. Salary depends on the 
nature of the institution. In all posi- 
tions of this kind the living expenses are 
included, and besides this a salary of 
from $40.00 to $150.00 per month. 

Dietetics is coming to be recognized 
as a highly specialized profession. Calls 
for dietitians come from hospitals, clubs, 
and progressive institutions, both public 
and private. In many hospitals the 
dietitian's province is the control of a 
special diet-kitchen for instruction of 
the student nurses where simple lectures 
in nutrition and dietetics are given with 
practical work in the preparation of 
special diets for the sick. The trained 
dietitian is finding openings in the 
public school lunch-room, food depart- 
ments of college dormitories, lunch- 
rooms in connection with industries, 
and fields where specialized workers are 
needed to handle the problem of food 
both from the economic and nutritive 
standpoint. The minimum wage is 
about $50.00 a month with room, food 
and laundry. The average is about 
$75.00 a month with maintenance. 
$1000 to $1500 per year, with living 
expenses, are occasionally offered. 

Managers of Tea-rooms, Cafeteria, 
School lunch-rooms, etc., mean direct- 
ing a cafeteria, a tea-room, an inn, or 
a small summer hotel. It may include 
catering for large or small functions. 



368 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



or special meals sent out. Salaries are 
from $700 to $1000 per year. 

Food Inspectors are employed by 
boards of health and pure food com- 
missions. They should be equipped 
with a knowledge of domestic science, 
physics, chemistry, bacteriology and 
public hygiene and sanitation in their 
relation to food supply. 

Visiting Housekeepers are employed 
by some charity organizations. They 
visit the homes of the poorer classes, 
and by using the family income as a 
working basis endeavor to suggest 
wiser expenditures. They suggest better 
care and feeding for babies and children. 
They assist the mothers in learning to 
prepare better and more nourishing 
food, in buying more suitable food and 
clothing. This field reports unusually 
interesting opportunities. Salaries are 
about $75.00 a month. 

In addition to the fields that are more 
or less clearly defined, there are a 
number that are opening up to students 
that suggest wide growth in the future. 
(A) The Co-operative Marketer does 
the buying of food supplies for a num- 
ber of families. The plan is to visit the 
families at stated times each week, 
consulting first with the mistress, then 
with the cook as to supplies on hand, 
preparing with them the menu and the 
list of foods needed. 

(B) The Professional Shopper must in- 
clude in her preparation a thorough 
study in fabrics and textiles; she may 
shop for individuals, or for college halls, 
hospitals and hotels. (C) The Profes- 
sional Housekeeper has duties in cer- 
'tain respects not unhke those of the 
co-operative marketer. Her work is 
usually in a group of homes not large 
enough to retain a permanent high paid 
housekeeper. She supervises the work 
in the house, takes responsibility as re- 
gards planning for the meals, suggests 
more economical buying. This person 
might be called a "household efficiency 
engineer." 

Allied fields are those vocations for 



which women are prepared through 
their work in practical science, as 
in chemistry, biology, and bacteri- 
ology. One of the most practical 
positions for women is that of Technical 
Chemist. Such chemists are in con- 
stant demand in manufacturing estab- 
lishments where they are employed as 
analysts in soap factories, woolen mills, 
etc. and in hospitals and other institu- 
tions. Research Chemists and Labora- 
tory Assistants are being sought to aid 
professors in colleges and physicians in 
hospitals, in carrying on original in- 
vestigation in their laboratories. For 
the practical Bacteriologist there is now 
an increasing number of opportunities, 
as in public departments of health and 
in connection with model dairies. 

The result of any of these forms of 
work is far-reaching. The work exists 
in response to vital human needs. In 
these days when such emphasis is laid 
on efforts for protection of health and 
prevention of disease, all this work takes 
on a new significance and becomes one 
of our great factors in the advancement 
of human welfare. 

A. J. H. 



"Economy" has become a word of 
unusual interest in the last year, though 
naturally to a less extent in the United 
States than in Europe. Our training 
has not fitted us to appreciate its dig- 
nity and cultural worth in both theory 
and practice. 



A Rainy Day 

Outside I hear the dashing rain. 

Full force against the window pane; 

On such a day, the fire aglow, 

An easy chair, a book or so, 

What more would I that fortune bring? 

Yet hark — I hear a step — a ring — 
And close to heart and hearth I fold 
My friend, who guessed my wish untold. 
For other joys I do not pray, 
Content am I this rainy day. 

Lottie Burrill Dixon. 




IRI^TMAS CAKE, WITH CANDLES 



Seasonable Recipes 

By Janet M. Hill 



IN ALL recipes where flour is used, unless otherwise stated, the flour is measured after sifting 
once. \Vhere flour is measured by cups, the cup is filled with a spoon, and a level cupful is 
meant. A tablespoonful or teaspoonful of any designated material is a LEVEL spoonful. 



verv 



Caviare, Andalouse Style 

TO serve eight, select eight, 
small onions of the same size; 
peel the onions and let cook ten 
minutes in boiling water. Drain, cool 
a little and cut the center from each to 
leave a thin case. Mix a small jar of 
caviare, the sifted yolks of two cooked 
eggs, three tablespoonfuls of soft, sifted 
bread crumbs, three tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter, a teaspoonful of fine- 
chopped parsley, half a teaspoonful of 
fine-chopped chih pepper or pimiento, 
and salt as needed. Use the mixture to 
fill the onions. Bake on a buttered 
pan in a hot oven fifteen to twenty 
minutes. Spread small rounds of fried 
bread with anchovy butter (creamed 
butter mixed with anchovy paste or 
sifted anchovies), and set an onion on 
each. Serve hot as a first course at 
luncheon or dinner. 



Crab Flake Cocktail, Atlantic 
Yacht Club 

(Proportions to serve 18.) 
One quart crab flakes, one pint tomato 
catsup, one pint chili-sauce, half a pint 
Major Grey's chutney, one cup celery 
cut into small dice, one cup sweet 
gherkins cut into small dice, one table- 







:) 







SEEDED WHITE-GR-APE COCKTAIL 



369 



370 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




BREADED HALIBUT HEARTS, FRIED 



spoonful Worcestershire sauce, two 
tablespoonfuls French mustard, two 
ounces light-brown sugar, two table- 
spoonfuls tarragon vinegar, a little salt. 
Mix all the ingredients; add the 
crab flakes gently, and serve very 
cold six hours after preparation. — The 
Caterer. 

Crab Flake Cocktail 

Chop, exceedingly fine, in a wooden 
tray, the white, inner stalks of a head of 
celery, a green pepper from which the 
seeds have been taken and the flesh of 
six olives. Mix the chopped ingredi- 
ents through two-thirds a cup of mayon- 
naise dressing and one-third a cup of 
tomato catsup. Have ready rather 
more than an equal bulk of crab meat, 



in flakes. Dispose a little of the sauce 
in cocktail glasses, sprinkle on crab 
meat and continue the layers, having 
crab flakes at the top. Serve as a 
first course at luncheon or dinner. 
Let stand an hour or more before serv- 
ing. 

White Grape Cocktail 

Remove the skins from white grapes 
and cut each grape in halves and remove 
the seeds. Chill thoroughly and dis- 
pose in chilled cocktail glasses; sprinkle 
lightly with sifted confectioners' sugar 
and set a choice cherry above. Serve 
as a first course at luncheon or dinner. 
Pieces of pineapple, orange or grape- 
fruit may be mixed with the grapes, if 
desired. 




CROWN OF POTATO, WITH LAMB RECHAUFFE 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



371 




SAUSAGE, WITH FRIED APPLES, DEERFOOT RESTAUR.\XT STYLE 



Breaded Halibut Hearts, Fried 

Have four slices of chicken halibut 
cut from a short distance above the 
tail. The slices should be a generous 
half -inch in thickness. Remove the 
skin and central bone to get two heart- 
shaped pieces from each slice. Beat one 
egg and add . three tablespoonfuls of 
milk. Roll the fish in soft sifted bread 
crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
dip each in the egg to cover completely, 
then cover again with the crumbs. 
Fry in deep fat to a golden brown. 
Do not have the fat too hot as the fish 
should cook about four minutes before 
it is colored enough for the table. Serve 
with a cup of mayonnaise dressing into 
which a few drops of onion juice and 
two tablespoonfuls of chili sauce or 
tomato catsup have been stirred. 

Sausage, with Fried Apples, Deer- 
foot Restaurant Style 

Prick a pound of sausage on all sides, 
put into a frying pan with about a 



fourth a cup of boiling water and let 
cook, turning as needed until Hghtly 
browned. Remove the sausage to a 
dish and keep hot. Pour off the fat to 
have about one-fourth a cup in the pan; 
into this slice half a dozen apples, care- 
fully wiped but not pared. Cover the 
apples and let cook until browned on 
one side and hot throughout; turn 
with a spatula, to brown the other side. 
Dispose on a serving dish, with the 
sausage at the center. 

Crown of Potato, with Lamb 
Rechaufee 

Prepare a saucepan of choice mashed 
potato, seasoning well with salt and 
butter and adding a little milk; the 
potato should be neither dry nor sloppy. 
Set the inner part of a small double- 
boiler, thoroughly buttered on the 
outside, on the serving dish and with a 
silver plated knife dispose potato against 
it to make a smooth ring of potato; 
let stand two or three minutes, then lift 
out the dish. Meanwhile keep the rest 




SWEET POTATOES COOKED IX BACOX 



372 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



of the potato hot over boihng water; fill 
a pastry bag holding star tube with 
potato and pipe it on the crown. 
Brush over the piping with a beaten 
yolk of egg, mixed with two or three 
tablespoonfuls of milk, and set into the 
oven to brown the edges of the potato. 
Have ready the remnants of a roast 
leg of lamb, freed of all unedible por- 
tions and cooked tender in broth or 
water. Thicken the broth with flour 
smoothed in water; add a little of this 
sauce to the meat, but reserve the most 
of it to serve apart. Fill the center of 
the crown with the meat, set a pimiento, 
cut in strips, above the meat to form a 
poinsettia, and sift the cooked yolk of an 



reserve three quarts of the liquid for the 
soup. Pick over one cup of the peas 
and let soak overnight in cold water to 
cover. In the morning drain and set 
to cook in the ham liquid, adding to it 
half a large onion. If ham broth be not 
at hand, add a slice of salt pork (about 
two ounces) with the onion. Let the 
peas simmer three or four hours, or 
until tender; then press through a 
sieve and reheat. Melt three table- 
spoonfuls of butter; in it cook three 
tablespoonfuls of flour, one-third a 
teaspoonful of pepper, and salt as needed; 
add three cups of milk and stir until 
boiling. Combine the two mixtures 
and serve at once. More milk mav be 




POPPY SEED ROLLS 



egg at the center of the red petals. 
Make the pimiento hot in boiling water 
before setting it in place. 

Sweet Potatoes Cooked in Bacon 

Peel good-sized potatoes and cook in 
boiling water for fifteen minutes or 
until they are a little tender. Remove 
from water and place in a shallow pan. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of sugar and 
one of butter. Pour one-third a cup of 
water over them, place in oven and bake 
twenty minutes. Remove from oven 
and wrap a slice of bacon around each 
potato, fastening it to the potato with 
a tooth pick. Place in oven and cook 
ten minutes. 

Split-Pea Soup 

If at hand, use the water in which a 
mild-cured ham has been cooked. When 
the liquid is cold, remove the fat and 



needed. If ham broth be used, prob- 
ably no salt will be required. 

Filet of Beef, Roasted 

The filet of beef is easily carved and 
is frequently given place in the menus 
of Christmas week. It should be a 
little underdone at the center; baste 
frequently with butter, bacon fat, salt 
pork fat, or fat from roast chicken or 
the soup kettle as is desired; dredge 
with flour after basting. Garnish the 
dish with half-slices of eggplant, egged, 
crumbed and fried in deep fat, alternated 
with grilled sausage. Cut the slices of 
beef cross- wise of the filet and a little on 
the bias. Italian or French chestnuts, 
cooked in broth and glazed, may replace 
the eggplant. 

Neck of Lamb en Casserole 

Have the neck of lamb cut in small 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



373 



pieces; wipe with a damp cloth, roU in 
flour and let brown in salt pork fat, then 
dispose in a casserole; add hot water to 
cover and let cook three hours or until 
nearly tender; add a half dozen peeled 
onions, parboiled and blanched, half a 
dozen small carrots or one large one, 
scraped and cut in pieces, half a dozen 
small potatoes, blanched and cut in 
halves; cover and let cook until the 
vegetables are about done; add a can of 
peas, drained, rinsed in cold water and 
drained again, a teaspoonful of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of black pepper 
or a slice of red pepper, and let stand 
in the oven to becom.e very hot. 

Poppy Seed Rolls 

Mix one cake of compressed yeast 
through one-fourth a cup of lukewarm 
water, stir in enough bread flour to make 
a dough, knead until smooth and 
elastic, cut across it in both directions, 
and drop into a mixing bowl containing 
one cup of lukewarm water. Set aside 
out of drafts until the ball of dough 
becomes very light; add three table- 
spoonfuls of melted shortening and half 
a teaspoonful of salt and mix thoroughly, 
then stir in flour for a dough. Knead 
until very smooth and elastic. Wash 
and butter the bowl, put in the dough, 
cover and set aside until light ; turn on 
to a board, divide in about fifteen pieces. 




VEGETABLE MI.N'CE PIE 

shape into smooth balls, cover with the 
bowl and let stand until well puffed, 
then shape into oblongs, thicker in the 
middle than at the ends. When again 
light bake thoroughly, brush over with 
beaten egg-yolk diluted with milk, 
sprinkle with poppy seed and return 
to the oven to dry the egg. Sprinkle 
each roll with the seed the instant 
the egg is applied. 

Choice Rumford Waffles 

Sift together two cups of pastry flour, 
two slightly rounding teaspoonfuls of 
baking powder and half a teaspoonful 
of salt. Beat the whites of three eggs 
dry and the yolks until thick and yel- 
low. To the yolks add one cup and a 
fourth of thin cream (top of milk bottle) 
and stir into the dry ingredients; add 
one-fourth a cup of melted shortening 
and the whites and fold all together. 
Bake at once on a hot well-greased 
waffle iron. 




APPLES GLACE, WITH CHERRIES 



374 



AMERICAN COOKERY 



N 



Vegetable Mince Pie 



Put four quarts of green tomatoes 
through a meat grinder, drain off all 
liquid, cover with cold water and let 
boil until tender; it will take about 
half an hour; turn into a colander and 
let stand until the liquid has drained 
off, then turn into a saucepan; add two 
pounds of brown sugar, one pound of 
seeded raisins, half a pound of citron, 
cut in small bits, half a cup of butter, 
half a cup of vinegar and one level 
tablespoonful of salt; let boil until 
quite thick, then add one tablespoonful 
of cinnamon, one tablespoonful of nut- 
meg and one teaspoonful of ground 



or three minutes, then put in the pre- 
pared apples and let cook, turning often, 
until tender throughout. Remove each 
apple, as soon as cooked, to a baking 
dish; when all are cooked, pour over a 
little of the syrup and dredge the whole 
with granulated sugar; set the dish into 
the oven to form a glaze over the apples. 
Serve hot or cold with the rest of the 
syrup poured around the apples. On 
cooling the syrup will jelly. Finish the 
center of each apple with a cherry, if 
serving as a Christmas dish. 

Pineapple Tapioca Sponge, 
Christmas Style 

Pour a cup of boiling water into a 




PINEAPPLE TAPIOCA SPONGE. CHRISTMAS STYLE 



cloves. Use as any mince meat in 
making pies. The mixture will keep 
some weeks, stored in an earthen jar 
and set aside in a cool place. 

Fruit-and-Nut Filling for Christ- 
mas Cakes 

Chop fine half a pound of figs, a cup 
of seeded raisins and half a cup of nut 
meats; add one-fourth a cup of boiling 
water and one-fourth a cup of sugar and 
stir and cook until smooth. 

Apples Glace, with Cherries 

Core and pare tart apples of the same 
size. For five or six apples, cook one 
cup of sugar and one cup of water, two 



double boiler and stir in one-third a 
cup of any quick-cooking tapioca; stir 
and cook until the water is absorbed; 
then add one pint of grated pineapple 
and stir and cook until the tapioca is 
transparent and cooked; add one-third 
a cup of sugar, the juice of half a lemon 
and one-fourth a teaspoonful of salt, 
and mix thoroughly, then fold in the 
whites of two eggs, beaten dry. Serve 
hot, or partly chilled, with whipped 
cream and candied cherries. 

Marshmallow-and-Nut Cream 
(Grace Barden) 

Cut one-fourth a pound of fresh 
marshmallows in four pieces, each; 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



375 




WHITE CAKE. WILD ROSE DECOR-ATIOX 



add one pint of sweet cream and let 
stand in a cool place three hours. When 
ready to serve add one cup of nut meats, 
broken in pieces, two slices of canned 
pineapple, cut in small pieces, and two 
tablespoonfuls of the pineapple juice. 
Mix all together and serve in glass 
cups. 

^White Cake, Wild Rose Dec- 
oration 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
gradually beat in one cup and a half of 
sugar, then, alternately, three-fourths 
a cup of water and two and one-fourth 
cups of sifted flour, sifted again with two 
level teaspoonfuls of baking powder; 
lastly, beat in the whites of four eggs 
beaten dry. Bake in two layer cake 
pans; put the layers together with 
chopped raisins and nuts, mixed through 
a little frosting flavored with half a 
teaspoonful of lemon extract and one- 
fourth a teaspoonful of rose extract. 
Cover the outside of the cake with plain 



white frosting and at once decorate with 
candied rose petals put on to simulate 
wild roses. Use yellow candies for 
centers. Candied rose petals can be 
bought by the ounce. ]\Iost of the 
petals are folded and narrow, but by 
selecting proper petals two may be 
combined to simulate one petal. 

Confectioner's Frosting for Rose 
Cake 

To the white of an egg add an equal 
bulk of cold water or lemon juice and a 
few drops of rose extract, then stir in 
sifted confectioners' sugar to make a 
frosting that will not run from the cake 
and yet spread easily. 

Christmas Cake with Candles 

Prepare the recipe for White Cake 
with Wild Rose Decoration. Put the 
layers together with a nut-and-raisin 
filling; cover the whole cake with any 
white frosting and sprinkle with fine- 
chopped pistachio nuts. When ready 




CCCOAXUT PUFFS 



376 



AMERICAN COOKERY 




OR.ANGE JUMBLES 



to serve decorate with red candles 
candle holders. 



ni 



Cocoanut Puffs (Ethel Dickinson) 

Beat the whites of two eggs dry; 
gradually beat in one cup and one-third 
of sugar, then one cup and one-third of 
desiccated, or better still, fresh-grated 
cocoanut; add, also, one or two drops 
of vanilla. Drop by rounding teaspoon- 
fuls on inverted tins, buttered; shape in 
smooth rounds. Let bake ten or twelve 
minutes in a moderate oven. 

Orange Jumbles 

Beat half a cup of butter to a cream; 
beat in the grated rind of an orange and 
one cup of sugar; add two eggs, beaten 
light, two tablespoonfuls of orange juice 
and two and one-half cups of sifted 
pastry flour sifted again with two level 
teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Mix 
all together thoroughly, then add flour 
as needed to make a dough. Knead 
slightly — a little at a time — and roll 



into a thin sheet ; cut out with a dough- 
nut cutter, lift to a buttered pan, brush 
over with white of egg and sprinkle 
with tiny candies or red candies and 
chopped pistachio nuts. Bake to a 
light straw color. Melted chocolate 
may be added to some of the dough to 
secure cakes of two colors. 

Soft Molasses Cookies (The 
Caterer) 

Put into a bowl one and one-third 
cups of molasses, one cup of brown sugar, 
and one cup of sour milk, in which two 
level teaspoonfuls of soda have been dis- 
solved. Add one teaspoonful of vine- 
gar and stir all together; add one cup 
of melted shortening, one beaten egg, 
one tablespoonful, each, of cinnamon 
and ginger and one-fourth a teaspoonful 
of salt. Mix; add flour enough to make 
as soft a dough as can be rolled out, cut 
in thick cookies and bake in a quick 
oven. By chilling the mixture over 
night less flour will be needed. 




GR.\PES GLACE. CHERRY FUDGE. MAPLE SUGAR FUDGE. MINT PASTE 



SEASONABLE RECIPES 



377 



Maple Sugar Fudge (Alfa Dix) 

Melt one cup of maple sugar and two 
cups of granulated sugar in two cups 
of rich cream, let boil to the soft ball 
stage, remove from the fire and let cool 
somewhat; add one teaspoonful of 
vanilla, then beat and turn on to a 
marble slab or a platter. Have ready 
one or two bread pans buttered or lined 
with parchment paper; break off pieces 
of the candy and knead each until soft 
and smooth, then press into the pans. 
Set aside for a time, then cut into cubes. 
If desired press one cup of butternuts or 
walnut meats, broken into pieces, into 
the pieces of candy after they are 
kneaded. 

Grapes, Glace 

Either Tokay or Malaga grapes are 
suitable for this purpose. Pick the 
grapes from the bunch leaving a short 
stem on each. With a damp cloth wipe 
each grape with care. Melt two cups of 
granulated sugar in one tablespoonful 
of glucose or corn syrup and one cup 
of boiling water; with the tips of the 
fingers, wet repeatedly in cold water, 
wash down the sides of the saucepan, 
then cover and let cook three or four 
minutes; uncover and let cook to 295° F. 
or, until the syrup is just on the point 
of changing color. Remove from the 
fire to a saucepan of boiling water. 
Drop the grapes, one at a time, into the 
syrup and remove with a candy dipper 
to a tin or aluminum surface. No 
better confection is made, but they will 
keep only one or, at most, two days. 
Halves of English walnut meats, pre- 
served chestnuts or cherries (carefully 
dried) may be prepared in the same 
manner. 

Cherry Fudge 

Dissolve one cup and a half of granu- 
lated sugar in half a cup of milk; add one 
tablespoonful of red-label Karo and let 
boil until a little of the syrup will form 
a soft ball when tested in cold water, 



or to 238° F. on the thermometer; 
add two teaspoonfuls of butter and 
set on a cake rack to cool; when cold 
beat until the mixture begins to thicken, 
then turn on an oiled platter or 
marble. Break off small pieces, and 
knead until smooth, adding slices of 
cherries, meanwhile; press one after 
another into a small pan. When cold 
and firm unmold and cut in cubes. 

Chocolate Chestnuts 

Wipe preserved chestnuts free from 
syrup. Have ready " Dot " chocolate, 
shaved fine and melted by setting the 
dish into water at about 75 or 80° F. 
Do not get any water into the chocolate 
or it will be spoiled. Drop the chest- 
nuts into the chocolate, one at a time, 
and remove with a candy dipper to a 
piece of table oilcloth. If the chocolate 
runs off to leave a base, it is too warm 
and should be beaten until cool enough 
to remain on the nuts. 

Little Raisin Cakes 

Cream half a cup of butter; beat in 
one cup of sugar, a cup of seeded raisins, 
chopped fine, and the yolks of two eggs; 
add, alternately, half a cup of cold water 
and one cup and a half of flour sifted 
with a level teaspoonful of baking pow- 
der, three-fourths a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon and a grating of nutmeg; 
lastly, beat in the whites of two eggs 
beaten dry. Bake in small tins. 

Marshmallow Frosting 

1 cup granulated sugar 

4 tablespoons hot water 

Pint of cream of tartar 

Boil until the syrup ' "hairs" when 
dropped from a spoon, then stir it into 
the well beaten white of one egg. Add 
a pinch of salt and twelve fresh marsh- 
mallows, which the hot icing will dis- 
solve. Beat with a spoon until the 
marshmallows are well broken up. 
Then beat vigorously with a Dover egg 
beater until smooth and very white. 
It will be light and puffy. 



Menus for One Week in December 



I,abor Gives the Best Relish. 



Breakfast 



Pork Sausage, Fried Apples 

Boston Brown Bread (reheated) 

Cereal Griddle Cakes 

Coffee Cocoa 

Dinner 

Cavaire, Andalouse Style 

Spare Ribs of Pork, Roasted 

Baked Bananas 

Mashed Potatoes Squash Celery 

Lemon Sponge Pie 

Half cups Coffee 

Supper 

Cream of Celery Soup, Croutons 

Canned Peaches 

Sponge Cake, Tea 



Breakfast 



Creamed Finnan Haddie 
Small Baked Potatoes 
Spider Corn Cake 
Toast Coffee 

Dinner 

Chicken Croquettes 

Canned Peas 

Celery-and-Apple Salad 

Mock Cherry Pie 

Toasted Crackers, Edam Cheese 

Supper 

Cheese Custard 
Quince Preserves 
Cookies Tea 



Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Cereal, Thin Cream 


Grapefruit 




Dried Beef, Frizzled 


C'orned Beef and Potato Hash 




Baking Powder Biscuit 


ChiH Sauce Toast 




Apple Marmalade 


Fried Mush, Syrup 




Coffee Cocoa 


Coffee Cocoa 




Dinner 


Dinner 


H 
K 


Cold Spare Ribs of Pork 


Tomato Soup 


hH 


Sweet Potatoes, Southern Style 


Hot Baked Ham, Mashed Potatoes 


^ 


Scotch Kale 


Creamed Celery, Cabbage Salad 


C/3 



Graham Bread 


Hot Cornstarch Pudding, Chocolate Sauce 


> 


Squash Pie, Edam Cheese 


Bran Wafers Tea 


^ 


Supper 


Supper 




Fried Oysters 


Succotash 




Cold Slaw 


Squash Biscuit 




Quick Yeast Biscuit 


Apple Sauce 




Cookies, Stewed Figs 


Cocoa 




Breakfast 


Breakfast 




Cream of Wheat, Thin Cream 


Salt Codfish Balls 




Grilled Bacon and Sweet Potatoes 


Mustard Pickles 




French Bread, Toasted, Doughnuts 


Dry Toast 




Apple Sauce 


Boston Brown Bread (reheated) 




Coffee Cocoa 


Baked Apples 




Dinner 


Coffee Cocoa 




Roast Fowl, Cranberry Sauce 


Dinner 


^ 


Mashed Potato 


Boston Scrod, Broiled 


s 


Creamed Oyster Plant 


Cheese Sauce 


3 


Celery 


Mashed Potatoes 


> 


Blushing Apples, Orange Sauce 


Lettuce, French Dressing 


>< 


Cocoanut JumbFes 


Apple or Lemon Sherbet 




Supper 


Supper 




Cold Corned Beef 


Split-Pea Soup, St. Germain 




Creamed Potatoes 


Apple Sauce 




Pickled Beets 


New York Gingerbread 




Jumbles Tea 


Tea 





Breakfast 

Grapefruit 
Creamed Fresh Fish au Gratin 
Mashed Potato Cakes (left over) 
Cereal Griddle Cakes 
Coffee 



Dinner 

Cream of Onion Soup 
Cold Baked Ham, Sliced Thin 
Brussels Sprouts or Scotch Kale 

Baked Potatoes 

Stewed Figs, Whipped Cream